A handbook of angling : teaching fly-fishing, trolling, bottom-fishing, and salmon-fishing ...

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From BELL YARD.

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

HANDBOOK OF ANGLING.

LONDON

PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODB AND CO.
NEW-STBEET SQUARE

THE GOLDFINCH.

BRITANNIA.

ERIN GO BRAGH.

J .
A HANDBOOK

OF

ANGLING:

TEACHING

FLY-FISHING, TKOLLING, BOTTOM-FISHING,
AND SALMON-FISHING.

WITH THE NATURAL HISTOEY OF RIVER FISH, AND
THE BEST MODES OF CATCHING THEM.

EPHEMERA

Of Bell's Life in London,

AUTHOR OF 'THE BOOK OF THE SALMON5 ETC.

* I have been a great follower of fishing myself, and in its cheerful solitude
have passed some of the happiest hours of a sufficiently happy life.'— PALEY.

FOURTH EDITION

LONDON:

LONGMANS, GKEEN, AND CO.
1865.

PKEFACE

THE THIRD EDITION.

To the previous editions of this practical work
I prefixed somewhat lengthened prefaces. They
were then necessary, as a bush is to a new tavern
not as yet renowned for its good wine. The words
* Third Edition' in the present title-page are
more significant than any preface. They prove
that I am still called for in the fishing market.
I obey the call, am thankful for the favour I have
found, and shall say very little more.

Five years have elapsed since I read this angling
treatise through and through. Recently I have
done so twice in preparing this third edition.
The book appeared to me as if it had been written
by another — like a long-absent child whose
features I had almost forgotten. I could judge
of it then with less partiality than when it was
fresh from my brain, and bore the defect-covering

K3FM

VI PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

charms of a newly-born. Its defects, though
perpetrated by myself, I have seen as plainly as
if they were done by others, and I have treated
them accordingly — removed them remorselessly.

I have, I think, improved the general style of
the volume; excised repetitions, rejected incor-
rect instruction, unsound suggestion, opinion, and
advice, and replaced them by accurate information
and counsel. The list of trout-flies I have short-
ened and simplified, and given no fancy patterns.
As it now stands, the list is perfect. The natural
history of salmon I have re-written. As a resum£
of the habits of that fish, I can recommend it for
its precise truths. The list of salmon-flies for the
best rivers in the British Isles I have remodelled
after the best specimens in that gallery of ideal
insect beauties which I painted for ( The Book
of the Salmon.'

At this third time of asking, gracious Public,
you shall take me absolutely for better, as the
4 or for worse ' can be no longer contingent.

CONTENTS

CHAPTEK I.

Angling defined. — Divided into three branches — into Fly-fish-
ing, Trolling, and Bottom-fishing. — Each briefly described. —
The superiority and merits of Fly-fishing . . . PAGE 1

CHAPTER II.

Throwing the line and flies. — Humouring them. — Fishing a Stream.
— Striking, hooking, playing, and landing a Fish . . 11

CHAPTEK III.
On Artificial Flies 46

CHAPTEK IV.
Fly-dressing 70

CHAPTER V.
Monthly List of Artificial Flies 93

CHAPTER VI.
Fishing with the Natural Fly, or Dibbing or Daping . 121

CHAPTER VII.

Trolling.— Rods, Lines, Tackle, and Baits, and Methods of Using
them . . 135

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK VIII.
On Bottom-fishing. — Eods, Hooks, Lines, and Baits . PAGE 177

CHAPTEE IX.
On Piscatorial Physiology, by Erasmus Wilson, F.E.S. . 217

CHAPTEE X.

The Habits of the Angler's Fish, and the best ways of catching
them fairly. — A New Natural History of the Salmon, and a
New List of Salmon and Lake Flies. — How to throw and
humour them in fishing for Salmon. — How to hook and play
that Fish — its haunts, and other Baits for it besides Artificial
Flies.— The Trout, Grayling, Pike, and all the Carp Tribe,
described. — Their Habits, Haunts, and Favourite Baits pointed
out 230

HANDBOOK OF ANGLING.

CHAPTER I.

ANGLING DEFINED — DIVIDED INTO THEEE SEARCHES —
EACH BEIEFLY DESCKIBED — THE STIPEEIOEITY AND
MEEITS OF FLY-FISHING.

ANGLING — the art of taking fish with rod, line,
and hook, or with line and hook only — is one of
the oldest of out-door amusements and occupa-
tions in every country. At first the modes of
practising it were exceedingly rude, and they still
remain so amongst uncivilised nations. There
are tribes in existence that now, as heretofore,
fashion the human jaw-bones into fish-hooks.
Even unto this day angling implements, amongst
many of the politest people of Europe, their
amusements, unfortunately for themselves, being
chiefly in-door ones, are manufactured with im-
perfect roughness. The inhabitants of the Bri-
tish Isles alone, with their colonial descendants

B

2 ENGLISH SPORTSMEN.

cultivate all matters pertaining to rural sports, of
whatsoever kind they may be, but particularly
hunting, shooting, and angling, with that perse-
vering ardour, comprising passionate study and
active practice, which leads to perfection. In
their efforts to acquire the surest, most amusing,
most health-giving, and, I may say, most elegant
modes of pursuing and capturing their game, be
it the produce of field or flood, they call to their
aid several ancillary studies, amongst which stands
prominent one of the pleasantest of all, viz. that
of the natural history of animals, and of other
living things ranking not so high in the scale of
creation. The hunter studies the habits of horse
and dog, and of the ferce naturce he pursues with
them, the fowler of the birds of the air, and the
fisherman of the fish of the water. The general
sportsman, a practical naturalist, if I may use the
epithet, studies the habits of all. Hence know-
ledge, skill, and success ; hence the accomplished
sportsman, rarely found except amongst the best
types of Englishmen, whether of high or low
degree.

Though angling has been jeered at more than
any other sporting practice, still no other subject
connected with field-sports has been more minutely
and extensively written upon, No sporting writer
is so generally known as Izaak Walton, and his
c Complete Angler ' has earned for him an im-

ANGLING SUBDIVIDED. 3

mortality which will last until the art of printing
our language shall be forgotten. Angling, then,
cannot be a theme unworthy of a modern pen ;
but the pen perchance may be unworthy of it,
and so cause me to fail in my design, which is to
write upon angling in a plain, connected, business-
like way, teaching its modern theory and practice,
together with the useful discoveries, inventions,
and improvements that have been recently made
in relation to it.

The art of angling is divided into three main
branches, the general principles of which being
understood, an acquaintance with minute detail
will follow gradually as a matter of course.

The first branch embraces angling at the sur-
face of the water, and comprehends fly-fishing
with natural or artificial insects, the latter being
of more general use. The second embraces ang-
ling at mid-water, or thereabouts, and includes
trolling or spinning with a live, a dead, or an
artificial bait — with a small fish generally, or its
representative. The third includes bottom-fishing,
that is, angling at or near the- bottom of the water
with worms, gentles, and many sorts of inanimate
baits. Bottom-fishing is the most primitive, the
commonest, and easiest mode of angling, the first
learnt and the last forgot ; trolling is less com-
mon and more difficult ; fly-fishing is the most
difficult and amusing of all, and though less.

B 2

4 IGNORANCE ABOUT ANGLING.

commonly practised than bottom-fishing in Eng-
land, is more generally so than trolling, more
particularly in Ireland, Scotland, and Wales.

Although in teaching an art it would be more
regular to commence with the easiest branches of
it, I begin, for several reasons, with fly-fishing,
acknowledging it, however, to be that division of
the art of angling which is learned the least
easily. I shall only give one reason for my ir-
regularity, viz. that he who has learned the prac-
tice of fly-fishing will readily learn the two other
branches of angling. He will learn them more
readily than if he began with either ; for he who
has begun with fly-fishing and succeeded must
have attained quickness of eye and lightness of
hand. If the reader should desire to be more
methodical than I am, he has the power of being
so, by reading this handbook as if it were written
in Hebrew. He will then find the last first, and
the first almost last. If he wishes for slow, but
sure advancement, let him reverse the order of
reading, moving from nearly the back rank to
the centre, and so on to the front.

The long-continued, unbroken chain of ignor-
ance that runs, in many instances, through the
world is almost incomprehensible to the active
mind. It is a miracle of visible darkness amidst
the intelligence that surrounds us. 4The dic-
tionary-making pensioner,' as Cobbett used to

WHAT FLY-FISHING IS. 0

call Dr. Samuel Johnson, defined angling, as a
silly thing, practised by a fool at one end of a rod
and line, with a worm at the other. Many stupid
people still adhere to this very stupid definition.
With the practice of angling they associate nothing
beyond worms, punts, patience, cold and wet, a
nibble and tittle-bat sport. A salmon caught by
angling — with a diminutive artificial fly, a thin
silkworm gut line, and a rod of pieces lighter
and more limber than a lady's riding wand ! No
— no such prodigy in their opinion ever occurred.
Believe me — yes, the largest salmon that have ever
stemmed the deep rapids of the Shannon have
succumbed to the cunning hand deftly manipu-
lating such frail gear.

Let us after this see what fly-fishing is —
whether it is a fool at one end of a rod and a
worm at the other. The greatest names in arms,
science, literature, and art — heroes, divines, ma-
thematicians, poets, painters, sculptors — have
been devoted to fly-fishing. Nelson's 4 dear, dear
Merton,' with its Wandle wandering by, offered
him an attraction which he constantly revelled
in, viz. fly-fishing. Sir H. Davy, Archdeacon
Paley, Sir Francis Chantry, Sir Walter Scott,
General Sir Charles Dalbiac, were enthusiastic
fly-fishers. The Dukes of Argyle, Newcastle, Sir
Hyde Parker, Mr. Sydney Herbert, Earl Gros-
venor, Viscount Anson, and many other great

6 PRAISE OF FLY-FISHING.

names, connected with the pulpit, the bar, bench,
studio, and the stage, that I could mention, are
constant and consummate practitioners of the
pleasing sport. Even whilst I wrote (Sept. 1847),
Her Majesty, the royal Consort, the eldest of their
royal offspring, and a princely party, were indulg-
ing in the pursuit with rod and line of salmon
and salmonidse in the waters of North Scotland.
Had the lexicographic pensioner been alive to
witness this, how rapidly he would dele that defi-
nition of angling of his, which purblindness dic-
tated ! Other field-sports may be more exciting
than artificial fly-fishing, but there is not one re-
quiring more skill, or calling into exercise more
intelligence and adroitness of mind and limb. A
quick eye, a ready and delicate hand, an appre-
hensive brain, delicacy in the senses of touch and
hearing, activity of limb, physical endurance,
persevering control over impatience, vigilant
watchfulness, are qualifications necessary to form
the fly-fisher. His amusing and chanceful strug-
gles, teeming with varying excitement, are with
the strongest, the most active, the most courageous,
the most beautiful and most valuable of river-fish,
and his instruments of victory are formed of
materials so slight, and, some of them, so frail —
they are beautiful as well — that all the delicacy
and cunning resources of art are requisite to
enable feebleness to overcome force. The large,

THE FLY-FISHER S WEAPONS. 7

vigorous, nervous salmon, of amazing strength
and wonderful agility — the rapid trout of darting
velocity, hardy, active, untiring, whose dying
flurry shows almost indomitable resistance, are
hooked, held in, wearied out, by the skilful and
delicate management of tackle that would, if
rudely handled, be warped by the strength and
weight of a dace or roach. 'Tis wonderful to
see hooks of Lilliputian largeness, gut finer than
hair, and a rod, some of whose wooden joints are
little thicker than a crow's quill, employed in
the capture of the very strongest of river-fish.
The marvel lies in the triumph of art over brute
force. If the sporting gear of the fly-fisher were
not managed with art — on the mathematical
principle of leverage — he could not by its means
lift from the ground more than a minute fraction
of the weight of that living, bounding, rushing
fish he tires unto death — nay, drowns in its own
element. The overcoming of difficulties by the
suaviter in modo forms one of the greatest charms
of fly-fishing, and to my fancy is the pleasantest
element of success that can be used in any pursuit.
Persuade, but never drive.

The baits of the pure fly -fisher are imitations of
insects in one or other of their forms. He fishes
with imitations of the fly, the beetle, the grub, the
caterpillar, and moth. These imitations are made
of divers materials, the chief whereof are feathers,

8 FLY-FISHING ACQUIREMENTS.

fur, mohair, wool, silk, and tinsel. They are
affixed upon hooks of various sizes, and by a
process requiring the most skilful and delicate
manipulation. The fly-dresser is a modeller of
no mean attributes. He has to represent, by
means of the most delicate substances of varied
tissue and colour, insects, often complete atomies,
and of changeable shapes and hues. Extreme
neatness characterises all the paraphernalia of the
fly-fisher. His sport requires the handling of
nothing that will soil the best-bred hand. The
composition of his bait extracts pain from no
living thing. To know positively that his baits
are good, he must to a certain extent be a
naturalist. He must be acquainted with the
outward appearance of several sorts of insects ;
he must know the divisions of the seasons in
which they live and cease to be ; he must know
the climates and localities peculiar or otherwise
to each species ; he must know their names, and
be able to classify them, if not scientifically, at
least piscatorially ; he must know those that
prove the most attractive food for each kind of
fish he angles for : in fact, he must possess a fund
of knowledge that will cause him to be considered
an accomplished man by the .members of every
rational society.

To render the pleasures attendant on his pur-
suit complete, he is invited, if he seeks for super-

PLEASURES OF FLY-FISHING. 9

lative success, to practise it amongst the most
picturesque panorama designed by nature. The
swift stream that dashes along the hill's side, the
brook that runs through the valley, the moun-
tain waterfalls — the currents foaming between
moss-grown rocks, or brawling over a pebbly
bottom, are the scenes of the fly-fisher's triumphs.
Salmon and salmonidse, happily the most frequent
prizes of the fly-fisher's skill, are not to be found
in the sluggish, turbid waters that flow through
flats and fens, but breed in, and inhabit, in due
season, those delightful streams that play through
table-lands. Their favourite food is not the offal
of slime or mud, but the insects that disport on
the surface of clear water. There the bounding
salmon tribe seek them, and in that search they
encounter the fatal artificial insect of the fly-
fisher, and all the deadly resources of his craft.
The shape, the colour, the flavour of the fly-
fisher's fish, do not mis-beseem the beauties that
surround salmon, trout, and grayling streams.
As the plain, nutritious sheep thrives well upon
Leicester and similar pasturage lands, so in their
waters breed prolifically the heavy carp, chub,
and tench. On the contrary, the heather of the
Highlands is the haunt of the dainty doe and
wild stag ; and the crystal waters of their inland
cliffs produce the aristocracy of the finny race.
The concordances of life, society, nature, are

10 MERITS OF FLY-FISHING.

admirable, unerring, and tally in delightful diver-
sity. The smooth waters of lowland rivers and.
ponds afford the placid bottom-fisher his sport.
The mountain torrents and lakes hold the quarry
the active fly-fisher is ambitious of capturing.
The broad, straight, even thoroughfares of the
world afford comfort and competence, acquired
bit by bit by efforts, slightly but sufficiently
stimulating to fresh and repeated exertion. The
narrow, precipitous paths of life lead to fame,
high honours, and high rank ; and the ascent,
rendered enchanting by the allurements of am-
bitious hope, is gained by daring activity, which
never flags but for breath to bound onward more
and more bravely. The accessible streams that
meander soothingly through soil for the sickle
and scythe, yield to the industrious bottom-fisher
a full pannier by a slowly and pleasantly accu-
mulating process. The fly-fisher, with haply a
few casts of his artificial baits, surcharges his ca-
pacious creel with salmon or trout, whose retreat
in waters rushing by crag and fell he has attained
by paths which none, save the sportsman intent
on high game, would choose to tread.

I have now run rapidly through the salient
merits of fly-fishing. With less precipitation, I
will explain the practice of it.

THROWING THE LINE AND FLIES. 11

CHAPTEE II.

THROWING THE LINE AND FLIES — HUMOURING THEM —
FISHING A STREAM — STRIKING, HOOKING, PLAYING, AND
LANDING A FISH.

OUR LANGUAGE contains many pretty, pithy, and
largely expressive figures of speech. One man
says of another, s he is the best " whip " in Eng-
land.' We understand by this little phrase that
he is vaunted to be the best driver and manager
of horses in harness in the kingdom. So when
we say e he throws a line or a fly better than any
man we know,' we mean to assert that he is the
best fly-fisher of our acquaintance. The posses-
sion of the one power commonly, not always,
implies the possession of all the other necessary
ones. Throwing well the line is an indispensable
fly-fishing qualification, the first to be learned,
always called into play, and without which other
attributes are nearly valueless. You may hook
a fish well, play a fish well, land a fish well, but
you will not often have an opportunity of doing
so unless you throw a line well. We judge of a
fly-fisher by the manner in which he casts his
line. If he does so with ease and elegance, and

12 THROWING THE LINE AND FLIES.

efficiently, we set him down as an adept in all the
minutiao of the art ; if he does not, we conclude
that he is a tyro. We confess our conclusions
may be frequently wrong. That, reader, you may
not long remain in the category of novices, let
there be, during the fly-fishing season, for you,
nulla dies sine lined.

I can see no wonderful difficulty in throwing a
line well. Many certainly do not cast well, by
reason, chiefly, of having adopted a bad method
at the outset. It is better to have no fly-fishing
habitude at all, than to have a bad one. Com-
mence on the proper principle ; persevere, and
you must become a proficient.

HOW TO THROW THE LlNE AND FLIES. You

are a beginner, I presume, and have never handled
a rod before. Let the rod for your novitiate be
ten or eleven feet long ; its play inclining rather
to faulty stiffness than to over-pliancy. Put the
joints or pieces together, the rings standing in a
straight line the one to the other, that your line
may run evenly between them without any tortu-
ous impediment. Affix your winch or reel with
its handle towards the left side, and draw out
your line through the rings, until there be about
four yards of it uncoiled beyond the last ring
of the top joint. You have now quite suffi-
cient line out to commence the practice of cast-
ing with it. Let your winch and the rings of

HOW TO HOLD THE FLY-ROD. 13

your rod be on the under side of it when you
practise casting.*

You are now ready to begin. Grasp your rod,
in your right hand, a little above the winch, but
not tightly. Your hand must not close firmly
with the thumb turned over your knuckles, as if
you were about to strike a blow. Your fingers
must simply entwine the rod, not squeeze it, and
your thumb must lie straight with your arm on
the upper part of the butt, the first joint being
very slightly bent, and the fleshy or flat fore-part
pressing on the rod. Hold your rod up almost
perpendicularly, and pointing rather to the left
side. Take the tip of the line between the fore-
finger and thumb of your left hand. Poise your
rod loosely and easily, and see that it balances
freely in your right hand. Be devoid of that fear
which begets awkwardness. What injury can you
do ? You are not going to explode a mine. You

* This is the English, and more convenient method The
•winch, being underneath the butt, does not come in contact with
your fore-arm as you throw, and therein lies the greater conve-
nience, but it is counterbalanced by having the rings also on the
under part of the rod, whereby the line runs and works upon
them rather than upon the rod. The Irish generally, and pro-
perly, affix the winch with the handle towards £ he right, and
fish with the rings upwards. In this way the line grates less
upon the ring- wires, and running upon and along the rod, instead
of beneath it on the rings, it is more influenced by the qualities
of the rod, and can be thoroughly managed by them. In most
cases, play your fish with the winch upwards.

14 THROWING THE LINE AND FLIES.

are merely going to throw a thin line with a
slight limber rod upon the water. What if you
fracture one or both in the attempt ? The damage
can be remedied.

I suppose you now on a bank above some river's
surface, all ready for your first cast. Move your
right wrist and fore-arm round to the right, let-
ting go, just as it begins to get taut, the tip of
the line in your left fingers, and bring round from
left to right over your right shoulder the upper
part of your rod, describing with the point of it
an irregular — a horse-shoe — circle, and then cast
forward with a flinging motion of the wrist and
fore-arm. The motion of the wrist must predomi-
nate over that of the fore-arm and elbow-joint.
If you follow the above motions exactly and with
freedom, from four to five feet of your line, sup-
posing you to have between three and four yards
of it out, must fall lightly upon the water. If
that length does not so fall, you are wrong, and
you must go on casting and casting, practising
and practising, until you are right,

At first you will find, unless you are very handy
and a very apt scholar indeed, that nearly all
your line will fall upon the water, and that the
top of your rod will come in contact, or nearly so,
with the surface of it. These are the greatest
drawbacks to throwing a line well, and if not
overcome, the learner must never expect to be-

PROPER POSITION IN CASTING. 15

come an expert fly-fisher. With might and main he
must struggle to vanquish them. They are caused
by letting the fore-arm fall too low whilst casting,
and bending the body forward in unison with the
downward motion of the arm.

Here is the remedy. When you have made
your casting movement — brought round your rod
and line over the shoulder, and propelled them
forwards, the motion of the wrist and elbow-joint
must be gradually checked the instant the line is
straightening itself in its onward course. The
body must be upright, the chest held rather back,
and the bust must not assume any marked for-
ward or stooping position. You will find, if you
hold your rod properly, that the end of it nearest
to you, the part between your hand and the spear
or spike, will come in contact with the under part
of your fore-arm just as your line is approaching
the water. This contact will prevent the point
of your rod following the line so low as to cause
a great part of the latter to roll on to the water.
Stand with your left foot a little forward., and flat
on the ground, with a firm purchase ; the right
foot a little behind, the toes turned out, and the
ball of the foot touching the ground with a slight
springy pressure. Your left upper arm must
hang loosely by your side ; the fore part curbed
from the elbow-joint will bring your left hand
over and opposite to the outer ends of the right

16 THROWING THE LINE AND FLIES.

lower ribs. Your position, the limbs, &c. arranged
in the above way, will be easy and graceful, allow-
ing free play to all the muscles required to be
brought into action.

I deem you now sufficiently skilled by practice
to throw four or five yards of line well, and with
satisfactory ease. Double, then, the length of
your line out. The right-arm motion must be no
longer limited to the wrist, fore-arm, and elbow
joint, but must extend to the upper and shoulder
joint. The os humeri and deltoid muscle must
be called into requisition with fine free vigour,
but not with so much of the latter as if you were
about to strike a knock-down blow. The whole
of the arm must be brought round to the right
with an easy, large sweep, and the line thrown
forward well from the shoulder. There must be
no coachman-like jerk with the wrist backwards,
as the front portion of the line is descending to
the water, but the hand must follow the rod, and
stop by a well-timed degree of suddenness, so
that the line will fall on the water with a some-
what quick — not plashing — rather than a lazy
floating motion,

As soon as you can throw from eight to ten
yards of your reel-line with the power of making
not more than a yard or two of the front portion
of it fall lightly on the water, and in whatsoever
direction you may chcose, add to it what is called

THROWING- THE LINE. 17

the * foot ' or s casting-line ' of moderately thick
silkworm gut, in length about two yards. You
will now have ten yards of line, more or less, to
throw with, and you must practise until you can
cause the gut-line to fall upon the water before
any part of the reel-line touches it. Do not be
in a hurry to put on flies and fish. When yoa
have succeeded in throwing your gut-line with
freedom, with the ability of making it alight first
upon the water — when you can prevent the top
of your rod from descending too low — when you
can hinder any part of your reel-line from making
a more rapid descent than your casting-line, — you
may begin to throw from left to right, with a
backward twist or slight sweep of the wrist and
arm. Hitherto you have been throwing from
right to left, and that is the proper and most com-
mon way. But circumstances will arise, caused
by the direction of the wind, your position with
regard to the water, and obstructions on and in
it, in the shape of trees, roots, rocks, &c,, that
will force you to cast from left to right, and some*
times underhand, as it were.

I shall say nothing of throwing with the left-
hand, because you may, if you like, become able
to do so, when you have learned to throw over-
hand and underhand with the right arm. It is
not by any means a necessary accomplishment.

You have begun throwing by moving the point
c

18 BACK-HANDED THROWING.

of your rod from left to right over your right
shoulder, bringing it parallel with the right side
of your head, and you have then been taught to
cast straightforwards, or rather from right to left.
If you have learned to do all this well, have no
fear ; you must succeed in fly-fishing. But to be
still more an fait in throwing the line, take the
end of it in your left hand, and bringing the point
of the rod to that side, move your wrist and fore-
arm backwards to the right, turning the hand up,
so that the finger-nails will point to you. Let go
the line, and its point will pass first slightly to
the left of you, and then turn over and fall on the
water on your right side. Although you will not
be able to throw in this way so long a line as
overhanded from right to left, you will be able to
throw it to a moderate distance easily and lightly.
Take a coachman's whip in your hand, and work
it right and left, that is, fling the thong sharply
and shortly before you to each side, making the
lash crack each time, and you will acquire a free-
dom in the wrist (but nothing more) that will be
of service to you in handling the fly-rod. A
coachman driving four-in-hand, with a long,
limber whip-handle and tapering thong, very fre-
quently uses the fly- fisher's motions, but does so
in a manner too cramped, sudden, harsh, and
violent. Observe him touching playfully the
heads of his leaders with the point of the lash,

PKACTICE BETTER THAN PRECEPT. 19

now the off-leader on the right side, and then the
near-leader on the left side about the ear, and you
will see how he works from right to left and from
left to right. Imitate him, but most cautiously.
Try and catch his ease and neatness, but avoid
the narrowness of the circles he describes with
whip-handle and thong, and the rapidity and
jerking of his wrist-motions.

All you now want is to throw with precision.
Let there be a mark in the water, and first try to
throw a little above it, and in the next cast, to
throw a little below it. Then try to throw upon
it, over it, beyond it,, and on your own side of it.
Having succeeded in throwing with accuracy
where there are no obstructions, seek spots of the
river where they exist— where there are over-
hanging branches of trees, weeds, rocks, or the
ends of piles appearing above the surface of the
water. Practise in these difficult spots assiduously
until you can surmount the obstructions, and are
generally able to avoid getting entangled amongst
them.

Practical observation is better than any written
lesson, because example — good example I here
mean of course — is far more cogent than precept.
When you see an old fly-fisher of ' acknowledged
reputation on the water, watch his movements,
and gain knowledge from what you see as well
as from what you hear.. You> see, most likely,
c 2

20 PUTTING ON THE FLIES.

that he performs what you cannot. Observe his
method, follow it, and you will overcome what
had hitherto been a difficulty to you. If he
permits you to accompany him during the day,
do so ; and if he will give you any oral instruc-
tions, be thankful to him. If happily they agree
with those you will find in this book, practise
them perse veringly. Attend always to a multi-
tude of corroborating, intelligent, and disinterested
witnesses.

You have been all this while learning to cast
with reel-line and casting-line without any flies
on the latter. Commence with a single fly of
rather large size, dressed on a full length of gut,
and looped to the end of your casting-line. That
fly is your tail-fly, or ' stretcher.' You may soon
be informed of your proficiency in throwing this
fly. The information will be conveyed to you in
the very pleasantest way, viz. by fish rising at
your fly. When large ones do so, it is a proof
that you have thrown your fly properly on the
water, and you may now add a second fly, which
will be your first ' dropper.' It should be a size
smaller than your stretcher, and fastened on a
yard higher up from it at one of the joinings of
your casting-line. During your first season I
advise you not to fish with more than two flies on
your line at the same time. You may lengthen
your casting-line from two yards to three, and

HOW FLIES ARE FASTENED TO LINES. 21

the latter length will be found the best average
one for fly-fishing with a single-handed rod. In
your second year use three flies, placing them
from eighteen inches to two feet apart. The
length of gut to each dropper need not exceed
two inches. The usual way of attaching flies is
by looping them on. The only fly I loop is the
stretcher. My droppers having a knot at the end
of the gut, I fasten in between the sli ding-knots
by which T tie together the links of gut that form
the casting-line. I prefer these sliding-knots to
the whipped ones, because they are lighter, and
enable me to attach and detach my knotted drop-
pers more quickly than if they were looped. The
knots will be found quite strong enough if you
make them double ; or even single, provided you
do not cut off the gut too closely to them. I
cannot clearly explain in writing how these
sliding-knots are made, but any fishing-tackle
maker will show you.

I have now prepared you for fishing with three
flies on three yards of gut casting-line. That
line should be thicker towards the hand, and
dwindle away gradually to the end farthest from
you. If the extreme end of your line should be
the thickest part of it, common sense will tell
you that when you cast it there must ensue a
more rapid and heavy descent upon the water
than when that end of your line is the finest part

22 SHAPE OF FLY-FISHING LINES.

of it. The gradual tapering of the line causes it
to stretch out with the cast without kinking or
coiling, and to fall lightly and straightly on the
water. Keel-lines (the best sorts are platted of
half hair and half good silk) are twisted in the
shape of a spindle or a porcupine's quill — thick
in the middle and tapering off in nice gradation
at each end. A line so shaped has this advan-
tage : — when you have nearly worn out one end,
you can have recourse to the other next the winch,
which is comparatively fresh, having been wound
first on the reel, and hitherto in great part pro-
tected from the action of air and water. The
used part, if not too much used, is to be now
wound next the winch. Your gut casting-line
must be formed of links each finer than the other,
but not with marked disproportion. The thickest
link must be that next to the reel-line, and the
thinnest that farthest from it — that to which your
stretcher or tail-fly is to be looped. Each of the
intermediate links of gut must be finer than the
other, round, and clear-coloured before dyed, and
without a flaw.*

FISHING A STREAM AND HUMOURING YOUR FLIES.
—Touching the practice of angling, there are
many moot points. One maintains this, another
maintains that, and a third differs from both. In
doing anything, there is but a right way and a
wrong; but common sense has not followers

HOW TO FISH A STREAM. 23

enough to give the right a majority. An im-
partial president casting up the votes for the
wrong must too often, I fear, pronounce, 'The
Ayes have it.' Opinions are divided as to how
a stream is to be fly-fished. Some say, Begin
at the head of a stream and fish it downwards
with the current. Others say, By no means:
— commence at the tail of a stream and fish
upwards to its head. Who is to decide, when
adhuc sub judice Us est? Will the litigants leave
it to my arbitration ? If they do, my decision is,
as a general rule, to be swerved from on rare
contingency — first fly-fish a stream upwards from
tail to head, and then, if circumstances make you
think it advisable after giving yourself and the
water a rest, try down, with, if necessary, a
change of fly or flies, from head to tail. By this
means you avoid disputed extremes, and, treading
the best of all paths, medio tutissimus ibis.

You are approaching a stream to fish it. Keep
as far as possible at first from the edge of the
bank you stand on, and throw somewhat to your
left side on to that part of the water running
next you — to your left, if you are fishing from
the left bank, and vice versa. Float your flies
down, humouring them nattily on the surface of
the water, or ever so little beneath it, obliquely
to your left, bringing them round at a civil
distance below you, and close under the bank.

24 HUMOURING THE FLIES.

Eepeat your cast, moving one step higher up, still
keeping as far as you can from the water-side.
When you have fished that nearer side sufficiently,
approach the bank, coming down again to the
tail-end of the stream, throwing as far as you
can across it, humouring your flies as in the first
instance, not drawing them directly across to you,
but floating them lightly down the stream, until
your line begins to grow taut, and the stream has
a drag upon it, when you must repeat your cast,
a little higher up the stream than before. Pursue
this plan until you have fished the stream as
widely from you as you can, and up to its head
formation. I well know this method will be
deemed by many too stringent. Never mind :
when you are out of your apprenticeship, you can
act more freely.

The objections to fishing a stream in the above
way are, that by so doing you expose your back
and side too much to the fish above you, and you
lose too much time and ground by this backward
process. In my opinion, these objections are not
fatal. If you keep a proper distance from the
side of the stream, you will obviate the first ob-
jection. The second I think of little moment;
for sometimes you cannot fish too carefully or too
slowly, inch by inch, especially if the stream be
a choice spot, and fish upon the rise ; whilst, un-
der contrary circumstances, your progress may be

CONSEQUENCES OF FISHING DOWN STREAM. 25

more rapid, hurrying over chanceless parts, and
fishing for luck quickly right a-head, hastening
on to more favourable localities.

There is but one main objection to commencing
at the head of a stream, and I do not see how it
can be well got over. You hook a fish at the
head of a stream, and must generally play him
downwards. What is the consequence ? Is it
not plain that you must disturb many fish below
you, over which you have not as yet thrown your
flies ? I think it is evident ; and if I did not
think so, I should be decidedly in favour of down-
stream fishing, as being the most rapid, pleasant,
and apparently the most natural way. At the
head of a stream you hook a large and game
fish. He darts across it, down it, through it in
every direction, at one time splashing on the sur-
face of the water, at another doggedly struggling
beneath it, or rushing through it, as if an otter
were at his tail. His struggles are at any rate
extraordinary, and think you not instinct tells
other fish, perhaps shoal companions, that there
is something wrong ? Surely they see and hear —
not usual sights and sounds, but somewhat alarm-
ing ones, because they are not customary. May
we not infer that they dread an enemy at hand
— that they see a fellow fish in danger, and are
cowed into skulking for safety, at least for a time ?
All anglers will acknowledge something like this ;

26 THY BOTH WAYS, AND JUDGE.

but then, some of them argue that the effects of
the disturbance are only temporary, and not so
lasting as those which arise from the fish seeing
you, as you fish a stream upwards. You can
avoid their seeing you, but you cannot, unless
you whip a fish out of the water the instant he is
hooked, or coax him against the current, prevent
the more or less disturbance he will cause accord-
ing to his strength and unflinching struggles, his
weakness or his want of game. It is argued, you
can remedy it, by not fishing for some time after
you have been playing a fish, or by removing to
some other spot, and coming back again in due
time to the place you had disturbed. This plan
will cause you to lose time at all events, and,
may be, the very nick of it during which fish are
rising freely. I have generally succeeded best by
fishing a stream from tail to head. Excellent
anglers have told me they did best by acting
differently. I deny no man's word, but I advise
the student to try both ways, and then judge for
himself.

In what precise shape artificial flies floating on
the water, or just beneath it, present themselves
to the fish, I cannot truly tell. They certainly
cannot present themselves in the exact living
forms of natural insects, but their appearance
must be something similar. If I were to guess, I
should say that the artificial flies for the common

APPEARANCE OF FLIES IN THE WATER. 27

trout, grayling, and some of the carp tribe, present
the appearance of drowning, or drowned natural
flies ; or of living insects struggling on, or under-
neath the water. I do not think this surmise
fanciful. At any rate, the fly-fisher should en-
deavour to present his artificial baits to the fish
as deceptively as possible, namely, by giving them
as natural an appearance as may be. He must
cause them to drop lightly on the water, because
the natural fly does so ; he must cause them to
swim down as near the surface as he can, because
the natural fly moves upon the surface of the
water, and he must impart motion to his flies —
a species of fluttering, generally speaking, being
the best. All this is comprehended by the ex-
pression ' humouring ' one's flies.* To do it, the
moment your flies alight upon the water, hold
up your rod, so that the drop-fly next to it may
appear skimming the surface ; the other two, if
properly proportioned and attached to the casting-
line, being ever so little under water. If you
allow your upper dropper to be under water, all
the flies below that dropper will be sunk too
deeply to appear living insects to the fish, and
therefore any motion you may give them will be
useless. They then can only be taken by the fish

* I am not here alluding to salmon, the flies for which must
be ' worked ' in the water after a peculiar fashion, to be de-
scribed hereafter in the chapter on that fish.

28 STRIKING AND HOOKING A FISH.

for dead flies. When you keep your last dropper
on the surface of the water, impart to it the
slightest skipping motion, by a tremulous wrist-
shake of the rod, and the flies that are just under
water will receive the most natural motion you
can give them. Never drag your flies straight
across the water towards you, and never, unless
they be salmon flies, work them against the
current. A small trout may, perchance, rise at
them when so worked, but seldom or never a
large one.

STRIKING AND HOOKING A FISH. — In cricket
there are fast and slow bowlers, which is a proof
that one way is thought as good, if not better than
another. In striking a fish there are fast and slow
strikers, each of them, of course, maintaining the
superiority of his own method. Well, if there
were no difference of opinion, sad would be the
monotony of life, the old proverb, ' Quot homines,
tot sententieej having become obsolete. The truth
is, there are as many fish missed by striking too
rapidly, as by striking too slowly, and a fault
either way is bad. I think, however, that he
who strikes too quickly labours under a greater
disadvantage than he who strikes too slowly.
Striking too strongly is a shocking fault, and, as
it is generally joined with the defect of striking
too quickly, double mischief ensues. You either
miss your fish, or whip it out of the water awk-

STRIKING GENTLY RECOMMENDED. 29

\vardly, or injure your tackle, if the fish be a
huavy one. This strong rapid way of striking
shows the absence of that delicacy of action and
management without which you can never become
an accomplished fly-fisher.

The moment you see and then feel a rise, you
must strike gently from the wrist, by a slight,
sharp jerk of it backwards. As a general rule,
strike sideways a little, and not straight towards
yOU — to the right most commonly: but you must
be guided by a guess as to which way the fish is
about to turn on seizing your fly. If you fancy
he is going to turn round to his left, you must
strike at him neatly towards your right : if you
think him on the turn from left to right, strike to
your left. By pursuing this plan, you will avoid
the probability of chucking the fly clean out of
the fish's mouth, or of pricking him only, and you
will very likely hook him, perhaps through and
through, on either the right or left side of the
mouth. A fish very frequently takes your fly
under water, and then, feeling the rise, be some-
what quick, yet strike as gently as possible; —
quick, lest the fish reject the fly ; gentle, for he is
already almost hooked. Those who are for strik-
ing slowly, act on the notion that fish generally
hook themselves, and that the slow stroke is quite
sufficient to affix the hook firmly. Fish do some-
times hook themsleves, 'tis true, but it is only by

30 THE CKITICAL MOMENT.

exception, and not by rule. The fly-fisher of
sharp eye and quick hand will often have an
advantage over the purblind and the too slow.
Dimness of vision and obtuseness of touch mar
frequently the benefits of experience, and the
young sharp eye and lively hand will successfully
compete with the skill of old practitioners in
whom the two attributes last mentioned are fading
away.

On this part of our subject, I find, on the whole,
some excellent advice' and remarks in Elaine's
6 Encyclopaedia of Eural Sports,' * 2nd edit.,
p. 1178. He says, * Striking the fish is to the full
as important a part of the rod and line manage-
ment as any. Many strike too slowly, many too
quickly, and a correct few strike at the critical
moment. The first lose their object, the second
often lose both the object and their bait, while the
third secure all. When a fish seizes the natural
fly, his jaws find no resistance; he consequently
keeps them closed until deglutition follows ; and
thus it is that in natural fly-fishing, it is not found
so necessary to be instantaneous in striking ; but
with the artificial fly, the instant the fish seizes it,
he is apt to find the deception, either by its want
of taste, or by feeling the point of the hook, or by
discovering the unyielding nature of the material

* Published by Messrs. Longman and Co., Paternoster Bow,
2nd edit. 1852.

STRIKING INSTANTANEOUSLY. 31

of which it is composed, and he, therefore, as soon
as may be, blows it out again ; and this we con-
stantly observe — when a timid irresolute learner
has raised a fish, and hesitates in striking it, fear-
ful of being too quick, or otherwise so paralysed
with the sudden attack, that he cannot collect
himself for a second or two, and half that time is
all that ought to be allowed for the seizure of the
bait, and the stroke of the angler. The striking
must be instantaneous to be successful ; for when
it is considered that the impulsive effort which is
to fix the hook in the mouth of the fish, which
has but that instant closed it on the bait, is first
to be taken cognisance of by the angler, and then
is to be acted on by him through a solid line of
communication of many yards in length, it will
be evident that a rapidity of action is required
almost equal to the thought that willed it ; for,
as already observed, unless the stroke reaches the
mouth of the fish before he has discovered the
deception, it is generally too late. Fortunately
for anglers, it is not always so, as the act of eject-
ing the bait being at the moment of the turning
round of fish for their retreat, it happens that they
occasionally at the same time hook themselves.
It is possible, however, to strike too quickly, and
this is frequently done by those who are very
ardent, as well as by those who, having been con-
victed of being too slow, attempt to amend by the

32 A CURE FOR VIOLENT STRIKING.

contrary extreme. We have fished with many
young hands who have struck the instant they
saw a fish rise even, and, consequently, though
the bait must have been risen at, the mouth had
never received it, or, if it had, it had not time
enough to close upon it. Striking a fish should
be done with a smart, but not a violent effort.
The ardent angler will often strike with such force
as to tear away his hold on the fish, or to become
minus gut and fly, which snap by the sudden
jerk. There is nothing better calculated to cure
a young practitioner who strikes too forcibly, than
to oblige him to whip for bleak, and to pay for-
feit for every one he raises above the surface of
the water, receiving forfeit for every one he hooks
without raising it into sight. The forcible stroke
that wholly misses its object often throws the
bait out of the water by the violence of the effort ;
the moderate stroke that misses will not displace
the hook more than a foot or two. The critical
fish-stroke is made by a very quick, but very
gentle, wrist-motion, by which the hand is canted
upwards, being displaced about two inches only.
Such a stroke made instantly the fish actually
reaches the fly (which is learned by habit), at the
moment he has closed his mouth on it and before
he has time to throw it out again, is sure to secure
the entrance of the hook within the substance of
the mouth, without causing great alarm to the

EVILS OF VIOLENT STRIKING. 33

fish by any unnecessary violence ; for it cannot
have escaped the observant angler, that, when a
trout has been harshly tugged in striking, he
commences at once a more determined resistance
than when the stroke has been less violent, and
his alarm less sudden. Neither can we wonder
that his efforts should be extreme, when he is
made sensible of his situation by a stab and a
drag which have half pulled him out of the water.*
If such critical nicety be required in striking, it
may be here asked, how is it that fish are ever
taken by novices ? Such a question is reasonable,
but may be easily explained. Many eager and
hungry fish hook themselves in* taking any bait
without hesitation. Their seizure of the fly, their
closing their mouth on it, and the passing it
backwards, are all one instantaneous effort; and,
on examination, such fish will be found to have
partially gorged the bait. But if the number of
fish so taken were arrayed against the number
of those lost by a defect in striking, the difference
would be as five to one of small fish, and as ten
to one of those of mature growth.' This extract
contains much of the sound rationale of striking
a fish, and should be read and digested carefully.

* The practical philosophy of this sentence, and of the latter

part of the previous one, is correct and valuable, and refers also

to the danger, whilst playing a fish, of suddenly and violently

checking him the instant he is hooked. But of this more anon.

D

34 PLAYING A FISH.

PLAYING A FISH. — This is the pleasantest and
most exciting portion of the angler's recreation.
Contest and struggle have now begun. If you
fail, you lose the object you have been carefully
seeking for, and perhaps a line and flies you have
cherished for the fatal remembrances attached to
them. The fish that had struggled so savagely to
do them damage you see with exultation tired to
death, or with chagrin you see him swim away
with them and sink to the bottom of the current.
The blood in this tussle is called from the interior
to the surface of the body and sent through the
vessels with exhilarating rapidity, and you feel a
temporary access of the pleasantest sort of in-
toxication, viz. that which attacks you at a sport-
ing crisis.. Playing a fish is the great crisis of
angling, full of hope, full of fear, full of doubt.
If he be hooked firmly, if your tackle do not fail
you, if he do not get your line and flies foul, if,
if, if — ah, the pleasant anxiety implied by those
ifs ! — you must kill him.

Having hooked a fish, your first business is to
determine what may be his size, and whether he
be hooked firmly or loosely. You can scarcely
be^ mistaken with respect to size and strength,
except when you have hooked a fish foul, that is,
eutside the mouth, in the fin, or in some other
external portion of the body. Then a small fish
may be taken for a large and strong one. There

A FISH SLIGHTLY OR FIRMLY HOOKED. 35

is a general rule for judging how a fish is hooked.
If slightly, the fish, on being struck, generally
struggles for a few moments on the surface of the
water before he darts down into its depths ; if
firmly hooked, he sinks rapidly and heavily to-
wards the bottom, as if he knew that the only
way of getting rid of the barb that holds him was
by attrition against stump or stone, or some such
thing, at the bottom of the water. You must
prevent the slightly-hooked fish from struggling
on the surface by lowering the point of your rod,
and you must prevent the firmly-hooked fish from
sinking to the bottom by elevating its point.
These two general rules are easily practised.

I see, veluti in speculum, your recently-hooked
fish plashing about upon the water, endeavouring
to shake out the hook, or at any rate to loosen its
hold, which he will do if you allow him too much
freedom. Point your rod downwards towards
him, and the slackened heaviness of your line will
cause him to quit the surface. The moment he
does so, raise the point of your rod, so as to feel
him well, and keep him in hand, gently or
strongly, according to his size and the nature of
the locality. If small, allow him just so much
play as will deprive him of any power of straining
your rod, then wind up, and lift him out of the
water. If large, which you will soon find out —
you have found it out already, by having measured

D 2

36 HOW TO TIRE TOUR FISH.

him with your eye whilst he was on the water — -
give him line, tightly though, as he darts through
the water— just tightly enough to enable you to
check him instantaneously should he near some
foul portion of the water. As he rushes from
you, keep going with him. holding him gently,
' under buckle/ as they say, and at each pause he
makes after every rush, feel him more fully, by
presenting towards him the butt-end of your rod.
The lower joints of your rod will then incline
backwards over your shoulder, and the upper
pieces will be bent like the one half of a strained
bow, the weight of the fish being thrown on every
part of your tackle, arid equalised according to
its strength, the small and thick pieces having
the severest strain upon them. If whilst the rod
is in this position you find your fish still vigorous,
do not press upon him by holding the butt-end
of your rod too much pointed forwards, but, let-
ting it fall into an easy perpendicular position,
give a little line and move onward with your fish.
The greater the length of line he drags after him
through the water, the sooner will he be tired.
Still you must take due care that the line be not
too long to prevent you from making it taut by a
turn or two of your winch at an instant's notice,
or by inclining your rod backwards over the
shoulder. After you have checked your fish a
few times, and you find his struggles wavering to

PLAYING A FISH FIRMLY HOOKED. 37

weakness, wind up and make him show himself
on the top of the water. If he bear this languidly,
shorten your line to a convenient length, and
guide him, not against the water, but with it, to
some easy landing spot, if it can be found. Whilst
you play a fish, never show yourself to him if you
can help it, and request anyone who is with you,
or who may be looking on, to keep away from
the water until your fish is in the landing-net, or
landed by other means.

When a fish, on being struck, darts to the bot-
tom and then away, you may be sure that the hook
is firmly fixed, and then you may play him more
confidently than when his first struggles are made
on the surface of the water. Still be cautious, and
do not play too roughly. Eough play is never
necessary. It is always dangerous. Checking
a fish rudely whilst he is strong, increases his
obstinacy and his strength at the very time when
they ought not to be exerted. If you strike gently,
he will not plunge desperately ; and as he will at
first scarcely feel the check, you may lead him by
manoeuvring delicately into some open portion of
the water, where you will have 4 a clear stage and
no favour.' Reduce then his vigour by degrees,
and as it wastes away by your repeated checks,
and your causing him to haul a long length of
wet line after him, hold more tightly ; and when
you see him turn upon his side, bring his opening

38 PLAYING A FISH HOOKED FOUL.

mouth to such contact with the surface of the
water that more of that element will enter than
can pass out by the gills. These safety-valves
having lost their natural action, something very
like suffocation or asphyxia by drowning will
ensue. Your victory is then complete.

When a fish is hooked foul, that is, on the out-
side of the mouth, he has his head free, and you
will find great difficulty in tiring him down. A
small fish so hooked will show more strength than
a large one fairly hooked. You have not got the
bit in his mouth, but are forced to manage him
with, as it were, a halter round his head. Give
him as much line as you can, bearing upon him
as heavily as the strength of your tackle will with
safety admit, and having no fear that your hook will
tear away, as it often does from the brittle fibrous
parts of the interior of the mouth. Be prepared
for several swift rushes of a fish hooked foully,
and do not bring him near you until you have
softened down his struggles. Use much patience,
and should your line, as it not unfrequently does,
get coiled round his body, hold hard and shorten
line, for you will now have little more than his
weight to contend with, the power of his fins
being impeded. I repeat again, eschew violence.
Always play with a light hand, making its strength
gradually felt in the ratio of the decline of that of
your fish, and so follow the killing rule in playing

LANDING A FISH. 39

a fish. In doing so, never seize your line in either
hand to shorten it, unless (and the occasion will
not often occur) you cannot wind up rapidly
enough to prevent the fish from darting into some
dangerous place. Playing a fish with the line
in your hand, without having recourse to your
rod, is the very worst habit you can adopt. I
should say, avoid it altogether, which you will be
able to do if you fish with a perfect winch. The
best sort of winch is a carefully London-made
multiplier. Although this is nay opinion, I do
not act by it, but use a best London check-
winch.

LANDING A FISH. — A few lines will describe this
final operation. In performing it, mark, let your
person, and all that pertains to it, be as nearly
invisible to the fish as may be. Select the clearest
spot you can for landing. If you have anyone
with you to handle the landing-net, let him keep
himself before the fish, sink his net in the water,
and as you gently bring the fish towards it, let
him advance it underneath the struggler, and
when right under him, lift it up without a jerk,
and with an easy motion, well-timed and accurate,
after the fish is withinside the hoop. Never
thrust the net at the fish whilst he is in voluntary
motion, or touch him with it until he is fairly
inside it. Where there is no bank, but & low
shelving strand, you may land your fish on it

40 LANDING-NETS.

without the aid of the net ; but I advise you to do
so rarely, as hauling the fish ashore over gravel
or sand will strain your rod prejudicially, and
very often injure your flies. Use the net upon
all occasions, unless some casualty occurs to render
it exceedingly inconvenient. When you have no
one to assist you in landing a fish, and the banks
are high, tire your fish out completely, and bring
him in close under the bank. If you cannot reach
him whilst holding your rod in either hand, wind
up tightly, and put the stop on your winch. Then
stick the spear or spike in the ground, your rod
inclining backwards from the river, and sinking
your net before the fish, bring it headwise under
him, and lift him out. If you frighten your ex-
hausted fish by clumsy use of the net, showing it
to him, touching him with it or making a noise
in the water with it, you may awaken in him a
death -flurry, fatal to some portion of your tackle
and to your success. The generality of landing-
nets are too small. On an average, they should be
by one-half as large every way as the largest that
are commonly sold in the shops. The thread
the meshes are made of should be stained of a
water colour ; and if frequent immersion in water
should wash the dye out, they should be dyed
again. I have seen many a fish break away
through the dreadful vigour with which he has
been inspired by the sight of a net bleached

THE GAFF. 41

almost white by constant exposure to sun and
water.

In landing large fish, salmon, very heavy trout
and pike, you may use the gaff, that is, a large,
well-tempered, sharp, deeply-barbed hook fastened
to the end of a proper piece of wood. The best
place to insert your gaff-hook is beneath the gills
of a fish in his gasping moments. The next best
place is above one of the pectoral fins, by a sharp
stroke. When you intend to gaff your fish in the
breast or shoulder, put the gaff outside and be-
neath him, the point upwards, and if possible
towards you. Then strike sufficiently strong to
make the barb penetrate far beyond the skin, and
then, if you cannot land him, he must be very
strong, or you must be very weak, or something
for angling purposes much worse. Eemember
this caution : never fly-fish without a landing-net
or gaff.

In playing and landing a fish, do so with your
winch and the rings of your rod pointing up-
wards. In England, people throw the line, strike,
play, and land a fish with winch and rings under
the rod. They do wrong. When the rings point
to the water as you play a fish, there is too much
strain upon them ; taking it off the rod, wearing
out the line by friction against the rings, and not
letting it run freely through them, as it would
along the rod if they pointed upwards. In casting

42 STRIKING, HOOKING, PLAYING,

only is it more convenient that the winch should
be beneath the rod. Appearance and convenience
are the only advantages of that position.

The following observations of Mr. Konalds
should be attended to : — ' When a fish has just
risen at a natural object, it is well for the fisher-
man to try to throw into the curl occasioned by
the rise, and left as a mark for him ; but should
the undulations have nearly died away before he
can throw to the spot, then he should throw, as
nearly as he can judge, a yard or two above it,
and allow the flies to float down to the supposed
place of the fish : if a rise do not occur, it may
be concluded that the fish has removed without
seeing the flies ; he may then try a yard or two
on each side of the place where the curl appeared,
when he may probably have a rise, and may pos-
sibly hook the fish, provided he has the knack of
striking, which knack, like all others, is acquired
only by practice : it must be done by a very
sudden, but not a very strong stroke — a twitch of
the wrist. Having hooked him, the rod should be
carefully retained in that position which will allow
its greatest pliability to be exerted. For beginners
to do this, it may be advisable that they should
get it up over the shoulder, and present the butt-
end towards the fish. A gentle pull must now be
kept upon the fish, and he should be led down the
stream rather than up, making use of the reel as

AND HOW TO SECURE A FISH. 43

occasion may require to shorten the line. But if
he run in towards the bank upon which the fisher-
man stands, it will be necessary for him to ap-
proach the edge of the water as nearly as possible,
holding the rod with an outstretched arm in
almost an horizontal position ; and if the reel be
of the usual bad construction, it will be also
necessary to pull in the line as quickly as possible
with the left hand ; this may prevent the fish from
reaching his harbour : if it should not, he will
most likely twist the gut round roots, &c., and
break away. To kill him, the nose must be kept
up as much as possible ; and should he be very
importunate and resolute, he may be lent a little
more line now and then, but it must be promptly
retaken with tremendous interest, and got up as
short as possible. After various fruitless efforts
to escape, which exhaust his strength, the nose
may be got fairly out of the water, the fish towed
gently to the side, and the landing-net passed
under him. From the time of hooking the fish,
if a large one, to the time of landing, care must
be had that the line shall not be touched by the
hand, excepting under the just-mentioned cir-
cumstances : all should depend upon the pliability
of the rod. In case a landing-net should not be at
hand, the reel may be stopped from running back,
the rod stuck up in the ground by the spike, and,
both hands being disengaged, the fisherman may

44 LANDING THE GRAYLING.

stoop down and grasp the fish firmly behind the
gills. The principal differences between trout
and grayling fishing are, that the latter requires a
more delicate hand, a quicker eye, and the use of
smaller flies upon the finest gut. The strike
must be made on the instant of the rise. The
fish may be sometimes seen, if he be of a good
size and the water bright, a few inches before he
gets up to the fly, and the fisherman must strike
immediately that he does so, for his motion at the
instant of seizure is too rapid to be visible. When
the fisherman comes upon a favourable place for
grayling, he should recollect that this fish does
not follow the fly as the trout does, and should
therefore allow it to float down the stream in a
riatural way ; for should a grayling be waiting for
it, and it is drawn away, " the fish will be disap-
pointed of that which it was the fisherman's in-
tention to entertain him with." It must also be
remarked here that the mouth of the grayling is
much more tender than that of the trout, there-
fore much more care in landing is required; and a
landing-net is generally indispensable, especially
when the banks are high, for the mouth will
seldom bear his weight out of the water.'

This chapter is a long and important one.
Unless you carry into practice its precepts, you
will never become a good angler. It teaches the
great branches of the art— throwing a line, hook-

THROWING THE FLY FOR SALMON. 45

ing, playing, and landing a fish. When you
understand them, nearly all you require to know
is, the best sort of tackle and the best baits for
the several fishing months.

When I come to the chapter on Salmon, I shall
accurately describe the mode of throwing the fly
for him — how to humour the flies he takes, strike,
hook, and play him. My instructions, hitherto,
principally relate to the capture of salmonidae.

46 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES.

CHAPTER III.

ON ARTIFICIAL ELIES.

OF LATE YEARS a new doctrine — in my opinion a
totally wrong one — has been sent forth about
artificial flies. Some Scotch writers were the
first promulgators of it, and they have carried
it to ridiculous extravagance. They positively
maintain that there is no likeness between the
natural fly and the artificial one, and that when
natural flies are on the water the angler will be
more successful by using artificial flies as widely
different from them in shape, colour, &c. as may
be. A nondescript artificial fly will succeed better,
they say, than a bad resemblance, and every at-
tempt at imitation, in their opinion, produces at
the best but a bad resemblance. These angling-
heretics contend that fish rising at a natural fly
immediately detect, by comparison of course, the
bad imitation, and refuse to rise at it ; whereas
they will rise at some outlandish artificial that
differs, as much as chalk does from Cheshire
cheese, from the living fly on the water. They
say, that when they go fly-fishing they catch
some of those flies that are on the water, and fish
with artificial flies totally different from them,

MAD MEN AND MAD FISH. 47

and invariably meet with more success than if
they used so-called, as they name them, imitations.
The majority of mankind are mad on one subject
or another. Perhaps the majority of animals are
similarly so. I deem these fly-fishers mad, and
think them successful because they meet with
mad fish, more readily taken with fantastic flies
than with naturally coloured and shaped ones.
That is the only way I can account for the for-
mer's heterodoxy.

My friends, do not mind what these cracked
sectarians say. They are learned philosophers,
writing articles on ' Angling' in ponderous en-
cyclopaedias, from visionary data, but we are
lowly scatterers of information gathered by the
water-side. We grant that there is very great
difficulty in imitating, by means of feathers, fur,
wool, &c., the water-insects fish feed upon ; but
we maintain that a fair deceptive imitation can be
made, and that it is beyond all comparison more
attractive to fish than no imitation at all. We
contend that the less imperfect an imitation, the
more attractive will it be found in fishing. Let
any impartial judge examine the artificial flies
made by Mr. Blacker, of 54 Dean Street, Soho,
and then say whether his imitations are fair ones
or not.

We said that philosophers — naturalists with
barnacles on nose — reading insect nature through

48 BIRDS CAUGHT WITH ARTIFICIAL FLIES.

the glass-cases of museums, find, they assert, no
likeness whatsoever between the natural fly and
what, to the vulgar, appears the best artificial
imitation ever dressed. The microscope, they cry,
proves this. An unjaundiced human eye proves
quite another thing.

The eyes of birds are, I believe, pretty good.
At any rate, they can see at an immense distance.
The philosophers will perhaps allow that the eyes
of the feathered tribes are as difficult to be de-
ceived as those of the finny tribes. I should say
more so, because their eyes are sharpened by
something very like an intelligent brain placed
close by them. Well, birds are continually de-
ceived by the artificial fly of the angler. Swallows,
martins, swifts, goldfinches, have darted at arti-
ficial flies as the wind blew them about on the
line, and have hooked themselves and been taken.
About six years ago, a dunghill cock seized an
artificial May-fly, attached to an angler's rod
resting outside an inn at Buxton, and was hooked.
If birds take these imitations of water-flies, not
being their natural or best food, how can it be
argued that fish will not take them ?

The philosophers say, attempts at imitation
are of no avail, for salmon and some of the larger
salmonidae rise eagerly at artificial flies that re-
semble nothing living on earth, in air, or water.
That is true, and as yet unaccountable. It is

A QUESTION FOR THE PHILOSOPHERS. 49

perfectly abnormal, as are many matters in the
natural history of salmon, and of the sea- visiting
salmonidse. But dress those gaudy salmon flies,
or lake trout flies, as small as you like, and the
common trout and grayling will not rise at them ;
neither will dace, chub, nor roach ; and yet they
will rise freely at imitations of river-flies, cater-
pillars, house-flies, and flies that are bred upon
trees, amongst gravel, sand, and plants. I say
they will rise at these imitations, and rise at
them in preference to any other when the natural
insect they are designed to represent is on the
water or in season.

Will the philosophers answer this question?
How is it that neither the common river-trout
nor grayling will, during the spring, autumn, or
winter months, rise at an imitation of the May-fly,
their especial favourite during a part of May and
June? If trout, or grayling, or chub would
prefer nondescripts to the imitations of flies on
the water, no more attractive nondescript could
be presented to them than the imitation of the
handsome May-fly when out of season. But they
never take it, except during the ' drake season,'
or a little before or a little after it, In that
season, viz. when the May-fly (Ephemera vulgata)
or green drake is out upon the waters, fish will
prefer an imitation of it to an imitation of any
other fly, except indeed of mornings or evenings,
E

50 WHEN IMITATIONS OF THE MAY-FLY KILL,

when other natural flies are out, and the May-fly
is not. I will here grant, and doing so will
strengthen my argument, that it is impossible to
imitate well the delicate and beautiful May-fly.
Still, fish will generally sooner take the bad imi-
tation, I may say the worst imitation of it, than
the best of any other fly not in season.

The artificial May-fly is not a killing bait
except under peculiar circumstances, and when
thrown upon the water amongst the real flies,
fish will generally prefer the latter. Use any
other artificial fly, as unlike the May-fly as pos-
sible, and you will prove the theory of the philo-
sophers to be erroneous, for fish will not rise at
these unlike flies at all. They will rise, however,
at a bad imitation of the May-fly, particularly
under circumstances that tend to improve that
imitation. When the weather is gloomy and
windy during the tf drake season,' and the deep
waters are ruffled, and few natural May-flies are
out, imitations of them will kill well. I account
for it thus. During such weather the imperfec-
tions of the artificial fly are to a great measure
hidden. The water is disturbed and not very
clear, the plash caused by the falling line and
large imitation-flies is not very great, and the
appearance of the artificial fly then is not unlike
that of a natural one, either drowned or drowning,
or struggling against the effects of gusty weather.

AND WHEN THEY DO NOT. 51

On a fine clear day, in pools at least, the artificial
May-fly will not succeed; and still less any of the
philosophers' outlandish flies, because of the im-
possibility of imitating the motions of the natural
May-fly, observed plainly and constantly by the
fish through the clear and tranquil water sending
up myriads of the beautiful living insect. When
it first comes to the surface of the water, it has to
shake off the case that confines its wings, to dry
them, to gain a little strength in the new atmo-
sphere it inherits before it can fly away to enjoy a
few hours' existence. Whilst making these inci-
pient preparations for ephemeral enjoyment, it is
seen by the fish, and frequently checked at the
outset of its career. The fly-maker cannot imitate
these acts of the fly, so apparent to fish in sunny
weather, and hence the little success attending the
artificial green drake at such a time.

The above famous fly, so common in the rivers
of the midland, the western, and the southern
counties of England, is not so common in the
north, is rare and even unknown in many of the
best rivers of Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. It
would be in vain to fish with it there, which
proves again that the common trout, at any rate,
will not rise at nondescript things, which instinct
informs them bear no resemblance to their natural
food. Grnats and midges are to be found every-
where throughout the kingdom, especially in

E 2

52 FAILURE OF NONDESCRIPT FLIES.

summer, and hence the different sorts of dun
artificials, intended to be imitations of those in-
sects, are good general flies in every part of the
empire. Artificial palmers, which are imitations
of the caterpillars of different sizes and colours
common to the rivers of the British Isles, are
good baits, perhaps the best general ones, except
in those months when the living caterpillar does
not exist.

After what I have now written, it will be ap-
parent to every one that I am in favour of close
imitation. I have tried the nondescript fly, and
found it fail — tried it for two seasons on the
Thames without a shadow of success. Having
found how difficult it was to kill large Thames
trout with the ordinary artificial flies, I had some
nondescript ones dressed as attractively as imagi-
nation, guessing at probabilities, could make them.
During the seasons 1846-7 I used them with the
utmost perseverance, for I wanted to test the dis-
covery of the philosophers ; but the Thames trout
seemed determined not to afford me a single ex-
cuse for becoming a convert to the new doctrine
— they would have nothing to do with my new-
fangled flies. In previous years I had killed
Thames trout with artificial flies, and I had made
others kill them with flies similar to those I had
used, viz. large red, black, brown, and furnace
hackles, and a very large imitation of the sand-

ARTIFICIAL FISH. 53

fly. Flies like these were successful in the year
1846, and I saw a trout weighing upwards of
lOlbs. that had been taken with a large brown
palmer at Sunbury. My gaudy flies were of no
use. I had my faith slightly shaken one day by
seeing a Thames trout taken with a bad imitation
of the May-fly late in July. That fly was a non-
descript then. A day or two afterwards I saw
several natural flies on the Thames ; they were
large, in shape like the May-fly, but the body
was of a lighter colour, and the wings not so
transparent as those of that insect. In fact, the
bad imitation of the May-fly that had been taken
by the Thames trout was not unlike the living
fly that was then out upon the waters of that
river.

If fish preferred nondescript artificial flies, we
might reasonably conclude they would prefer non-
descript natural fish, mice, frogs, beetles, grass-
hoppers, and so forth. They do not, however;
and artificial fish-baits are made as like as possible
to natural minnows, bleak, gudgeons, dace, roach,
and small trout. Perhaps the philosophers would
contend that an artificial imitation of the red
mullet, or of some other fish that would be a non-
descript to salmonidae or pike, would be taken by
them with greater avidity than the bad imitation
of the fish they feed upon, because — and that is
the philosophers' reason — they can distinguish

54 THEORETICAL NONSENSE.

the badly-imitated artificial minnow or gudgeon
from the real ones they constantly see and feed
upon, and will therefore seize by preference some-
thing concerning which their instinct can draw
no comparison.

Before I conclude this chapter, I think it but
fair to the philosophers to give a summary of their
theory. It is the opinion of governments and of
other bodies of men, that it is dangerous to pub-
lish false theories. I do not think so. Falsehood
cannot stand against truth in the open day. It
may creep on in private, but its publication draws
after it its refutation, and the establishment of
true knowledge into the bargain. There is great
philosophy in 6 0 that mine enemy had written
a book ! ' A modern writer (( The Angler's
Souvenir ') says : c Most books on fly-fishing con-
tain long lists of flies, named after the particular
insect of which it is pretended they are an imita-
tion, but to which they bear so very distant a
.resemblance, that the most skilful entomologist
would be completely at fault in assigning the
species. Such lists, for the most part, only con-
fuse the beginner, and give him wrong ideas of
the rationale of the art, and are not of the least
use to the proficient. The greatest number of
trout, as is well known to every practical angler,*

* This I pronounce one of the most barefaced misrepresenta-
tions ever uttered.

THEORETICAL NONSENSE. 55

is caught with flies which are the least like any
which frequent the water. The imitation of the
yellow May-fly, which is so common on many
streams towards the latter end of May and the
beginning of June, is scarcely worth admitting
into the angler's book ; for when the natural fly
is most abundant, and teachers say the imitation
is to be used, it is generally good for nothing, as
the trout very seldom take it when the real fly is
on the water; but, in direct opposition to the
unfounded theory, prefer a hackle, black, red, or
brown, or a dark-coloured fly. Wherever fly-
fishing is practised — in England, Scotland, Ire-
land, Wales, France, Germany, and America, —
it has been ascertained, by experience, that the
best flies are not those which are dressed profess-
edly in imitation of any particular insect. Red,
black, and brown hackles, and flies with wings of
the bittern's, mallard's, partridge's, woodcock's,
grouse's, martin's, or blue hen's feathers, with
dubbing of brown, yellow, or orange, occasionally
blended, and hackles, red, brown, or black under
the wings, are the most useful flies that an angler
can use on any stream in daylight all the year
through.'

The above passage contains a summary of the
doctrine preached by the new piscatorial philo-
sophers. They are lazy theoretical anglers, and
would be glad if there were only three general

56 LAZY THEORETICAL ANGLERS.

killing artificial flies, that they might not have
the trouble of changing them, or observing which
flies are in season. There is one truth, and one
only, in the above extract : viz., that which says
fish will freqently, in the drake season, ' prefer a
hackle, black, red, or brown, or a dark-coloured
fly,' to the imitation of the May-fly. That truth,
however, does not strengthen the philosophers'
reasoning. Quite the contrary. I have already
explained why the artificial green drake is not
generally a successful fly. It is the most difficult
of all flies to be imitated well. Other artificial
flies are better imitations of other real flies, and
therefore fish prefer them to the bad imitations
of the drake. Another reason why they take f a
black, red, brown, or dark-coloured fly,' is that
fish, like man, have a versatile appetite. What
will the philosophers answer, when I tell them
that trout at certain times of the drake season will
prefer a small artificial fly to the fine fat living
fly ? Unaccountable ! perchance they will say.
Not a whit of it. I have seen fish so much gorged
and surfeited with the live May-fly, that they
would no longer rise at it ; whilst they would rise
rapidly, particularly towards evening, at an imita-
tion of the common house-fly. What do I con-
clude from this ? Not, certainly, that the arti-
ficial fly is a better bait than the natural fly at all
times, but that it is sometimes, when palled ap-

GENERAL FLIES. 57

petite, or some other casualty, makes it so. The
philosophers recommend the use of only a few
flies. They recommend, however, the most general
ones; that is, those whose appearance on the
water is not limited to a few days in a particular
month — in fact, flies which are to be found alive
in one shape or other during spring, summer, and
autumn. After all, they do not in reality recom-
mend nondescripts, and are particularly minute
in describing how their imitations should be
dressed. If they consider, as they say they do,
imitation useless, why are they so precise about
appearance, about certain sorts of feathers, fur,
&c. ? I grant them that some of the flies they
name are the best general ones we know of, and
that they will kill, when trout are rising at very
different sorts of flies, better than bad imitations
of those flies which are in season. But they kill
on a principle totally different from the philoso-
phers' doctrine — viz., because they are like some
natural fly, whilst the bad imitation is not like
any fly at all.

In the month of March, when the weather was
open, and the water in fly-fishing tune, I have
seen thousands of a particular species of fly sailing
with wings erect upon the surface of the water.
The fly I mean is diversely called the March-
brown, brown drake, cob-fly, and grey caughlan.
It is easier to make an imitation of this fly than

58 A GEE AT QUESTION ANSWERED.

of the May-fly, and therefore such imitation will
kill when a nondescript, or a fly as unlike as pos-
sible the March-brown, will not. Practical anglers
know this so well, that when the March-brown is
on the waters, they fish with three imitations of
it of different sizes attached to their foot-line at
one and the same time. I have known a good
imitation of the March-brown thrown upon the
water amongst the live insects and eagerly taken,
I may say in preference to the natural fly. Did
the fish confound it with the natural fly, or rise
at it because it was a nondescript ? That is the
question. I answer without hesitation, they con-
founded the artificial with the natural fly. At the
same time, I maintain that if fish did not in
general make the mistake of confounding the
artificial with the natural fly, the fly -fisher's art
would be a bungle from beginning to end, and
should be called a comedy of errors, rather than
an art. Of the March-brown, Mr. Bainbridge in
his ' Fly-Fisher's Gruide ,'— and Christopher North
pronounces that gentleman to have been one of
the most accomplished anglers that ever crossed
the Tweed, — says : 6 This very excellent fly very
generally appears about the middle of March, and
is strongly recommended as a good killer from
eleven until three o'clock. Large numbers of
these beautiful insects sail down the streams in
succession, and invite the trout to action. Their

AN ORTHODOX AUTHORITY. 59

wings are upright on the body, and whilst they
are on the water, it is almost in vain to attempt
the use of any other fly. Therefore, as they vary
in the shade of their body, it is advised to use
three of this form, but of different sizes and
colours, at the same time, which will ensure suc-
cess to the angler.' Mr. Bainbridge is an ortho-
dox authority acknowledged by every practical
angler. He is perfectly right in advising the use
of differently coloured March-browns, because
the hue of the male differs from that of the
female.

Why are duns in general use ? Because they
are imitations of the ephemera family, the most
common and most killing water insects. It is
not because they are nondescripts ; and he who
has the best dun hackles of various hues, dressed
in the neatest way over bodies varying in colour,
as the natural flies do, according, I am justified
in saying, to wind and weather, will meet with
the surest success. For my own part, I seldom
fly-fish for trout or grayling without some sort of
dun on my line, and I am guided by the shape
and colour of the dun-fly on the water. Some
species or other of dun-fly is on the water through-
out the fly-fishing season.

I find in ' The Encyclopedia of Eural Sports,'
some passages so full of sound sense on the subject
of natural and artificial flies, that I cannot resist

60 ON EPHEMERAL FLIES.

the temptation of borrowing them. They deserve
attentive perusal, and their author, the late Mr.
Delaborde P. Elaine, was famed for his knowledge
of natural history and his practically scientific
attainments. He says : * The small ephemeral
flies, called duns in the angler's vocabulary, are
very important to his practice : the entomological
outline will show that they are very numerous
also. A few, as the May-fly, the March-brown,
and great whirling dun, are large ; most of the
remainder are very small, but yet are so attrac-
tive to fish, particularly to the trout, that in the
counties which are favourable to their propaga-
tion and increase, they form the sheet-anchor of
the trout fly-fisher's practice. It would be diffi-
cult in the extreme for the most attentive, either
angler or naturalist, to designate or characterise
them individually, from their numbers and varie-
ties. The short period of their existence, limited
to a few days at most, and in some to a few hours
only, renders a constant succession necessary to
fill up the void. They have been grouped under
the comprehensive term of duns, which has be-
come so conventional, that it would be extremely
difficult to disjoin them; although, whoever ex-
amines the yellow and the orange varieties, which
equally pass under the same name, will find they
have little of a dun hue about them. There are,
however, extreme exceptions, for it is very certain

EPHEMERAL AND DUN FLIES. 61

that in most other varieties there is a predomi-
nating bluish grey tinge. Were it not for the
successional changes which take place in their
tribes, they might perhaps be conveniently and
appropriately divided into brown, red, and yellow
ephemerae ; of each of these the modifications are
almost infinite.

c Of the brown ephemerae, or duns, some are
very dark, approaching a claret colour, which is
best imitated by a dark blue, mixed with a reddish
brown. These are usually found in the earliest
part of the fly-fishing season, and to them usually
succeed a mixture of red and coloured varieties,
followed by a new series, which are gradually
softened into the different hues of dun, orange,
or yellowish ash. Of the true dun ephemeral
flies the variety is equally endless, from the early
blue dun, which may be considered as the type,
through all the gradations of iron-blue, violet-
blue, ashy grey, and pale-blue. The yellow
ephemeras or duns are still more difficult to
define, as there are few even of the former that
do not exhibit a yellowish intermixing tinge about
some parts of their little frames. Often it appears
in exquisite orange bars over the abdomen, but
they derive their character from the yellow being
more strictly predominant. In some may be
perceived a slight mixture of bright yellow with
a larger of ashy dun. When both colours are

62 VARIETIES OF DUNS.

bright, an elegant tint of green is produced In
others again, as the little yellow May-fly, bright
yellow prevails without mixture. Of all these
the series are wonderfully varied, some having
orange bodies and dun wings, while in others the
orange is shed over the wings, and the dun body
serves as a foil to them.

s The successional change of colour which takes
place in the series of ephemerae, as they advance
from the spring to summer, and as they retro-
grade again towards autumn, has not escaped the
notice of anglers ; and we find in most of the
directions for fly-dressing the subject practically
glanced at, but no systematic arrangement of the
series has been attempted. All that has been
hitherto noted is, that in the early spring months
the predominating colour of the winged insects
which are seen near the water is almost black.
The early duns are of a very dark olive, whose
occasional varieties, as the season advances, assume
a lighter brown, while others shine in a heavy
blue ; until at length yellow, orange, or cinnamon
decks the former, and pale blue the latter, inter-
mixed with others apparently compounded be-
tween these. With one exception, that of the
blue-blow, the ephemerae appear invariably to
become of a lighter hue as warmth and light in-
crease ; and we see the summer duns dressed in
bright yellow, orange, red, and cinnamon. From

VARIETIES OF DUNS. 63

these fresh relays appear, and as the season ad-
vances these again assume the gradatory shades
of red, brown, violet, and claret colour.

6 The daily appearance of the ephemerae, as well
as the colours they shine in, is 'also under the in-
fluence of times and seasons. Excess of cold, as
well as of heat, is unfavourable to them : thus in
the depths of winter they are not seen at all ; in
spring they do not show themselves until towards
noon ; while in the meridian splendour of the
summer days, they (to avoid heat) come out in
the mornings and evenings principally, and are
hardly seen at midday. A kind and provident
nature so suits the supply of her creatures, that
her economy may never be disturbed. If these
ephemeral flies appeared all of them at one time,
the air would be vitiated, and the birds and the
fishes which live on them would be glutted to
satiety and fatal repletion at one time, and at
another might want the necessary support. But
we see species after species arrive in succession to
fill up the breaks made by the last ; and that no
inconsiderable interruption may occur by variation
in temperature, and changes in weather, some are
destined to appear when cold and storms prevail,
while others require cloudless skies and genial
warmth to draw them from their seclusion. The
whirling dun thus frolics in the gale, the red
spinner dances in the sunny beam, and the blue-

64 ADVANTAGES OF ENTOMOLOGY.

blow braves the chilling day. The observant
angler makes a practical use of all this, and
frames his mimic art accordingly.'

The intelligent reader will find, in the above
extract, hints that will serve as a safe clue to much
interesting and useful information. He will be
inclined to think that a partial knowledge at least
of entomology will be necessary to make him a
perfect fly-fisher. He will find that each month
produces its particular flies, with some that are
common to most months and waters, and with
imitations of these he will angle. He will find
that the first spring flies are generally olive-
coloured, reddish, and brown ; that as spring ad-
vances, various duns, not as yet very light ones,
come on, together with larger flies of mottled
wings, and yellow and dark bodies. In the last
spring month appear such flies as the little and
large May-fly, precursors of more gaudy ones for
summer-tide; and in early autumn he will find
gnats, transparent duns, cinnamon-coloured flies,
ant-flies, and, as the season declines, the spring
flies, olive and green, reappear. This information
is important.

In dressing flies, precise colour is of more im-
portance than exact shape. If the colour^of your
materials be bad, it is in vain for you to be correct
in shape. You must, therefore, ascertain the
colours of the living flies, and match them by

FLY-MAKING MATERIALS. 65

artificial means. The fly-fisher who is the best
judge of colour has an immense advantage over
the bad colourist. When by-and-by I give my
list of flies, I shall be most particular in stating
the coloured materials of which they are to be
made. The wings and feet of flies are almost al-
ways made of feathers — the bodies of fur, mohair,
silk, wool, &c. ; and the fly-dresser cannot be too
particular in the quality and colour of those mate-
rials. The most general feather for wings is the
wing-feather of the starling, its longest or inner
fibres to be used ; the most general feather for
legs, and sometimes for body, is a cock's hackle-
feather ; and the most general substance for dub-
bing the body is mohair : it is the best also. The
hackle-feather is taken from the back part of the
cock's neck, and that part of the bird affords
feathers of various sizes and various hues. Mohair
can be dyed any colour ; it resists water well, does
not cake in it, shows its colour effectually, and
mixes well with fur and silk. It is a most valu-
able material. The hackles of cocks are of differ-
ent colours. The most valuable are duns, and
they are the most difficult to be obtained in per-
fection. The best dun feathers are to be found
in Wales and the midland counties. Hackles are
to be got from a variety of other birds — from the
grouse, the green and golden plover, the partridge,
bittern, woodcock, snipe, wren, tomtit, &c. ; and
F

66 IMPROVEMENT IN FLY-DRESSING.

feathers for wings from a still greater variety of
birds. The same feather that will make the
wings will frequently answer best for the legs,
shoulders, and tail of the fly. All that is required
is judgment in the selection, and this can only
be obtained by comparison.

Artificial flies are now certainly very neatly
made — infinitely better, every judge acknow-
ledges, than they used to be a few years ago. My
own ephemeral writings in BeWs Life in London
have (I have heard many say) tended much to
this advance towards perfection; and so have
Mr. Ronalds's 6 Fly-fisher's Entomology,' and
Mr. Blacker's ' Art of Fly-making ' * and, lastly,
so have the two first editions of this Handbook.

Still we are not perfect in fly-making, nor shall
we be so until some more painstaking fly-dresser
than we now have gets a collection of natural
flies, examines them by means of the microscope,
ascertains their precise colours and anatomy, and
then by microscopic examination again of feathers,
mohair, fur, and so forth, arrives at the exact
imitative materials. When that is done, fly-fishing
will be reduced to a sporting science exceedingly
amusing and instructive. The journeyman fly-

* I earnestly recommend this valuable little work to all who
wish to become perfect fly-making adepts. It is sold by the
author, 54 Dean Street, Soho, and by the Messrs. Longman and
Co., Paternoster Kow.

HINTS TO FLY-DRESSERS. 67

dresser at present is merely acquainted with the
mechanical part of the art, dresses from artificial
specimens, knows little or nothing of the natural
insect, and is rarely a good angler. He is a
copyist of a copy, and does not know whether
that which he has to copy is a good likeness of
the living subject or not. A fishing-tackle maker,
to be a great and good one, should have an insect
museum, — the flies, caterpillars, and beetles, fish
feed on, preserved in cases, named and numbered,
and the season of each noted. From these models
he should dress his flies : and when he finds he
has succeeded in framing perfect copies, he should
note down the materials he has used in their
formation, and then he will have sure guides for
the fly-dressers he employs. He should pay
those persons well, and engage none who do not
deserve high pay ; and should charge his customers
a remunerative price. The generality of flies
are sold at too low a price. They cannot be
made well at a low price. They must be defective
in every way, and hence the purchaser meets
with little success, much loss of time and of
money, for cheap things are always the most ex-
pensive in the end. There have been persons
advertising to make, at Is. 6d. a dozen, the flies
I recommend. At that price the hooks and gut
must be of inferior quality, the workmanship
'scamped/ so that the hooks will draw after a

if 2

68 STRETCHERS AND DROPPERS.

tussle or two with a good fish. My flies cannot
be well dressed for less than double the above
price.

In trout and grayling fishing I would always
have three flies on my casting-line at the same
time. The tail-fly or stretcher should be the
best, and when possible the largest; the first
dropper, a good general fly, and the second drop-
per, or third fly, a most attractive hackle. The
stretcher should be an imitation of the fly in
season. It is the fly which ought to fall first on
the water ; if you cast well, it floats most naturally
in it, and a fish hooked by it is more easily played
and killed than with either of the droppers.
When you find that fish are rising at one sort of
fly only — that your stretcher, or one or other of
your droppers, is the sole attraction, remove your
useless flies, and make your sole attraction a triple
one. You will often find several sorts of natural
flies on the water simultaneously : observe which
of them the fish are feeding upon, and produce
your imitations if you have them in your book.
If not, make them if you can.

It is a fact that hackles and palmers are the
most killing flies on many of the rivers in Eng-
land, whilst on others winged flies are the best.
Hackles, except a very few, do not kill well in
Ireland. Winged flies are the best there. Palmers
are not good flies, generally speaking, in Ireland ;

THE GENERAL FLY. 69

whilst in some parts of England they are the best
general baits. In our northern streams, which
are exposed to cold winds, and not well sheltered
with trees, bushes, and plants, hackles and small
flies are the most killing. In well- wooded rivers,
in our midland, western, and southern counties,
winged flies are the most attractive, and the
palmer kills better than the simple hackle. The
natural flies are bred larger there, and with more
seasonable regularity. We have one consolation,
however, that the good general fly extends its
attractive qualities to all aquatic coquettes, be
they English, Irish, Scotch, or Welsh salmon
or salmonidas. Experience alone, whether it be
your own experience or that of others, can make
you intimately acquainted with the great local
favourites.

70 ARTIFICIAL FLIES.

CHAPTER IV.

PLT-DKESSING.

THERE are hundreds of things that cannot be
taught easily by means of pen and ink, but which
the tongue and hand, reciprocally illustrating
each other, can inculcate with very little difficulty.
Fly-dressing or fly-making is one of those things.
I can scarcely teach it by writing ; in a few hours
I could explain the whole matter with tongue
and hand. However, I must on paper do the
best I can ; and the artist in wood having lent
me some assistance, I fancy I can make a short
lecture on fly-making practically comprehensible.
The woodcut on the left-hand side of this
page, and marked 1, re-
presents what fly-dressers

V*^ [ "\ term ' the gut armed,' that

is, plainly speaking, the gut
and hook whipped on, or
tied together. It is the
first step in fly-dressing, and is thus performed :
—You take the hook by the bent part, or bend,
between the tips of the fore finger and thumb of
the left hand ; the back part of the hook being

ARMING THE GUT. 71

upwards, and the barbed part downwards, as
represented in the little plate before you. You
next take a strand of fine silk, neatly waxed, and
about a foot or more in length, and you whip it
two or three times firmly round the hook at that
part of it nearest your finger-nails, or, generally
speaking, that part of the shank which is opposite
to the pointed and barbed part of the hook. You
make the two or three whips in the direction of
the end of the shank of the hook, that is, towards
your right. Next you take a link of gut coiled
for convenience' sake, as you see in the cut ; and
having softened between your lips, and drawn
between your teeth to soften and flatten it, a
small portion of the freed end of the gut, you
place that end against the last whip that you
have made with your silk, and you wind your
silk over gut and hook up to the end of the
shank, or up to that part of it from which you
see in the cut a portion of the silk hanging.
Wind your silk firmly, and in regular twists, and
one winding will be sufficient to fasten safely
your hook and gut together. If you only wind
your silk as far as you see it wound on the hook
before you, a very small portion of the end of the
shank will be bare, and leave more room for you
to make the head of the fly, and fasten off there
with greater delicacy. On the other hand, if
you wind your waxed silk to the end of the

72 SETTING ON THE WINGS.

shank, and back again to the spot at which you
see the silk depending, you will make a firmer
foundation for the setting on of the wings, the
time for performing which operation is now
arrived.

Here you see the wings merely whipped on ;
the butts of the fibres fast-
ened down by being whip-
ped over in the direction
of- the bend of the hook,
and the tips of the fibres
pointing away to the right.
You ask, where do you get

these fibres, and what are they ? Simply a small
parcel of them, clipped or torn from the stem of
some appropriate feather, generally from that of
the wing of a small bird, the most common one
being the starling. These fibres are generally
taken from that side of the feather lying on the
inner part of the wing. They are longer, of a
lighter colour, and more transparent than the
fibres lying on the pinion side of the wing, because
the latter are more exposed to atmospheric action.
Having cut or stripped your fibres in sufficient
quantities to form two wings, and having made a
little bundle of them, their butt-ends lying evenly,
and not projecting the one beyond the other,
fasten the butt-ends down on the top of the back
of the hook, at the spot indicated in the wood-

FLY-DRESSING: — THE TAIL. 73

cut. Three firm whips of your silk will be
sufficient to fasten them. Then cut away any of
the butt-end fibres that may remain uncovered
by the silk. Wind your silk down towards the
bend of your hook, stopping at the spot at which
you first began the arming of your gut, as de-
scribed in Fig. 1. You are now ready for the
placing on of the tail.

Here you see it placed on and whipped over
with your silk. The tail
is generally made of
two fibres of a feather,
or of two hairs. In
tying on the tail, use
three fibres or three
hairs, lest one should
drop off or be in any way injured whilst you are
dressing the other parts of the fly ; and afterwards,
if you have succeeded in fastening on three, you
may cut away the worst of them, and allow only
two to remain — the generality of angling flies
having but two tails, and a few only being pachas
of three. These illustrious insects have their
appendages particularised in our list of killing-
flies. You have now, attentive learner, per-
formed three things, — armed your gut, fastened
on your fibres for wings, and fixed your tail.
You next come to making the body, and attaching
it round your hook.

74 FLY-DRESSING: — THE BODY.

Here are hook and gut with a body on without
wing and tail. That body
is made of what is called
dubbing; and dubbing is
made of fur, hair, mohair,
silk, and a few other sub-
stances. You spin a little of either (the quantity
to be determined by the size of the hook you use,
the size of the fly determining the size of the
hook) on your silk, by twirling both dubbing and
silk between the fore finger and thumb of your
right hand, and you wind the whole on your
hook, beginning at the tail, and working up to
the setting on of the wings. The dubbing must
be wound more sparingly on the silk near the
tail, and increase upwards, being most plentiful
close under the wings. You will perceive that
you begin winding the hook upon the dubbing
after you have tied on the tail, just where you see
the silk hanging from the hook in Fig. 3, and
you cease winding on when you come to the wings.
It may be here necessary to warn you that in
some instances you place the tail and dubbing on
first, before you whip on the wing-fibres. These
instances are, when you are dressing very small
flies with perfectly upright wings. Then you
place on the wings last, with the butts of the
fibres pointing towards the end of the shank, and
the top ends towards the bend of the hook. In

REVERSING THE WINGS. 75

fact, such wings, for such flies, are placed on
in a way quite the reverse from that shown in
Fig. 2.

This next cut represents an ordinary winged
fly, one of the easiest
of the sort you can
make, in nearly a fi-
nished state. You have
only to cut off the silk
which is left hanging
at the spot at which
you have finished the fly. You wonder, perhaps,
at the position of the wings, pointing very differ-
ently from the way you left them when you first
tied them on as directed in the explanation ac-
companying Fig. 2. I will explain to you the
different operations that have caused this change
of position. When you wind up your dubbing to
the setting-on of the wings, you fasten your dub-
bing there, and pinch off all of it that is super-
fluous. You fasten your silk with a slip-knot.
You then take the wing-fibres between the fore-
finger and thumb of your left hand, and reverse
them, bending them down over the back of the
body of your fly, with the tops of the fibres point-
ing towards the bend of your hook. Whilst so
bent and held down, you pass your silk behind
the wings, between them and the end of the shank
of the hook, and you lap your silk two or three

76 DIVIDING THE WINGS.

times tightly close over their base. They will
now lie nearly as represented. To make them do
so completely, you divide the fibres exactly in the
middle with your dubbing- needle, and through
the division you pass the silk ; and then you wind
it round the bottom of the division farthest from
you, or that on the right side of the fly, and you
bring back the silk, passing it again through the
divided wings, and bringing it round and under
the bottom of the division which is next to you.
You now whip the silk behind the wings, and
form the head part of the fly ; fasten with a
couple of slip-knots newly waxed, and clip off
the depending silk ; touch the knots with a little
varnish, which will render them thoroughly safe.
Your fly, consisting of tail, body, and wings, is
now finished. If your wings are too long, pinch
off with your finger-nails the unnecessary portion
of the tips of the fibres ; pick out your dubbing
with your dubbing-needle, and make your body
taper by taking away parts of the dubbing wher-
ever you see it superfluous. The fly here repre-
sented has three visible defects. It has three
tails, one of which should have been clipped off;
the head is too thick and too long, which might
have been prevented by fewer laps of the silk
between the wings and the end of the shank ;
and the wings should be more pointed and
equally divided. I have purposely left the defects

HACKLE-FEATHEK PUT ON.

77

standing, in order to show how they are to be

remedied.

Here is a 'complete fly, with wings, body,

tail, and hackle for
legs wound under the
wings, and just before
them.

You see here the
hackle-feather whip-
ped on for the pur-
pose of making the
legs of a winged fly,
or for making a plain
hackle or a palmer-
hackle. I will suppose
you going to make the fly, Fig. 6. You arm your
gut, as described at Fig. 1 ; you fasten on your
wings, as shown at Fig. 2 ; and you then whip on
your hackle, as here represented, close by the
wings. You cut away butt-ends of the hackle
and wing-fibres, and you whip your silk down
towards the bend. Whip on your fibres or hairs
for tail, and then spin on your dubbing, which
you wind up to the thick ends of hackle and wing.
Carry back towards the tail your silk a little, and
then wind on over the body for two turns, in the
same direction as your silk, your hackle-feather,
which you tie down, and cutting off what remains
of it unbound, bring your silk through the fibres

78 DRESSINGS A TINSEL-RIBBED FLY.

of the hackle behind your wings, which divide,
and pass your silk through the division, and
round the bottom of each wing, finishing at the
head in the way directed for fly, Fig. 5. A fly
made carefully in this way is a most general and
killing one, wanting only, for higher finish, to be
ribbed or tipped with tinsel.

I here present you with a fly ribbed with tinsel
over the body. It is a
difficult fly to make ; and
when you can make it
well, you may consider
yourself a proficient in
the art of fly-dressing. Arm your gut, then tie
on your hackle for legs, and your wings as usual.
Cut away thick end of hackle and wings, and wind
your silk down to the tail. Attach your tail, and
then your gold or silver twist, as may be. Spin
on your dubbing, which wind up carefully to the
wings, fasten with a slip-knot, and leave your silk
depending. Go back to the tail, and take your
gold or silver twist and lap it at regular intervals
over the body up to the wings ; fasten and cut
away the remaining parts of the twist and dub-
bing; then wind your hackle a couple of turns
over twist and dubbing in the direction of the
tail, and,xfastening down the hackle cut away the
point p£iit. Bring your silk back behind the
wings ; divide them, and finish in the way already

A GOOD PLAIN FLY. 79

taught. In the body of the fly represented, you
see white and dark ribs. The white are caused
by the tinsel ; the dark, by the portions of the
dubbing which you have not covered with the
twist or tinsel. In this figure there are three
prominent defects : the head is too thick, the
wings unequally divided, and the tail is omitted.
These defects are designedly caused. They will
often occur to the young fly-dresser ; but when
they do, he must unfasten his defective fly, and
begin again.

The two last flies the learner has been studying
are amongst the most diffi-
cult to make. I will give
him a little relaxation now
by presenting to him one or *^/%jjjjl 9
two flies more easily dressed
— and here is one. It is a fly with plain silk for
body, with wings and legs. The making of it
should be frequently practised, as that will pro-
duce greater facility in dressing the more com-
plicated flies. There is nothing like a good
foundation. Arm your gut. Suppose the body of
your fly to be delicate and of an orange colour,
let the silk you use for arming be of that colour,
waxed with colourless wax.* Consequently, whilst

* Wax colourless, as far as the effect on coloured silk goes,
may be thus made : — Take two ounces of the best and lightest-
coloured resin, with a drachm of bleached beeswax ; put them

80 DRESSING A SIMPLE HACKLE.

you are arming your gut, you are forming the
body of your fly. You must make that body of
the requisite length and thickness, and of the
proper tapering shape, by a few laps more or less
of the silk. Tie on your hackle and wings, as
shown at Figs. 7 and 2 ; wind on your hackle
two or three laps down the body of the fly;
fasten, and clip off the point of the hackle. Bring
your silk back through the fibres of the hackle to
behind the wings, which divide in the usual way,
and finish at the head delicately. Never forget
to varnish the final knot.

I now give you a simple hackle to make, which
I think very easily done,
though others do not. The
great difficulty consists
10 in winding the hackle-

feather, so that its fibres
may project below and
above the hook with great regularity, tapering off

into a pipkin on a slow fire, until completely dissolved. Let the
whole simmer for ten minutes. Then add a quarter of an ounce
of white pomatum, and allow the whole, constantly stirring it,
to simmer for a quarter of an hour longer. Now pour the liquid
into a basin of clean cold water, when the liquid will instantly
assume a thick consistency. In this state, and while it is yet
warm, work it by pulling it through the fingers until it be cold.
This last operation is necessary to make the wax tough, and
give it the bright silvery hue which it has when made to per-
fection.

DRESSING A PALMER-HACKLE. 81

according to their length towards the bend of the
hook, and not being entangled, by some getting
tied down by the others, or hitching in them
uncouthly. Arm your gut, and attach your hackle
as shown at Fig. 7 ; then wind your hackle to
the bend of the hook, and there fasten; cut
away your silk and the point of your hackle-
feather. Now with your dubbing-needle pick
out any of the fibres that may be caught in the
winding-on, and clip away the points of those
that project irregularly.

Before you now is a palmer-hackle, a most
useful bait, representing a
caterpillar. Arm your gut,
and then attach your hackle-
feather as usual, together
with some floss silk, pea-
cock or ostrich harl, or
dubbing, to form the body. They must be at-
tached near the end of the shank. First, wind
your floss-silk, or harl, or other material for the
body, down to the bend of the hook ; then wind
your hackle for legs ail down the body, and fasten
at the tail; clip away all that remains at the
end of the hackle and body. Palmer-hackles are
frequently ribbed with gold or silver twist.
When you use it, attach your hackle first, then
your twist or tinsel, and lastly your harl or dub-
bing. Note, as a general rule, that the material
G

82 THE WINGS PLACED ON LAST.

you attach first, is that which is to be wound
round your hook last. Having attached hackle,
tinsel, and harl near the shank of your hook,
wind down the hody of it towards the bend : first,
your harl or dubbing ; secondly, your tinsel ; and
lastly, over all, your hackle. Fasten, and cut
away the ends.

I said before that very small flies are dressed
differently from the way I have been teaching

you hitherto. The chief difference consists in
the wings being tied on last instead of first, after
the gut has been armed. To dress flies with the
wings fastened on last, you must arm your hook
as usual, then attach your hackle-feather at the
bend, as here represented, and then spin on your
dubbing also from the bend. When you have
wound up your dubbing to the shoulders, fasten
it down there, and then wind up your hackle to
the same spot ; clear away the ends of dubbing
and of hackle ; set on your wings with the butt-
ends towards the shank of the hook; lap your
silk a couple of times round the butts of the

FLAT-WINGED FLIES. 83

fibres. Divide the wings, and pass your silk
through the division, as directed at Fig. 5,
Finish at the head carefully. Wings set on in
this way will sit bent forwards, and enable you to
dress a finer body, and one composed of a great
variety of materials, It may often happen that,
after a little use, the wings will get spoiled, and
the body of the fly remain uninjured. By the
method taught here, you can attach a new pair of
wings without interfering with the body, and that
is an advantage. I think that wings tied on last
generally sit better, but they cannot be tied on
so firmly as the wings that are attached imme-
diately after the arming of the gut, with the butt-
end fibres pointing to the bend of the hook. As
many insects have their wings lying flat on the
body, such wings are best imitated by feathers
tied on with their roots pointing towards the end
of the shank of the hook.

The last specimen of fly-dressing I intend to
give is a very simple one,
though not the less valua-
ble. It is a hackle, with
the wings placed on last :
that is, dressed reversely 'W/^//
from the fly, Fig. 9. You

see that the wings sit well, and as one way is as

easy as the other, you may adopt whichsoever you

like. In making plain hackles, you may begin

02

84 FLY-DKESSING.

by attaching the hackle near the end of the
shank, as shown at Fig. 7 ; or near the bend, as
seen in Fig. 12 : 'tis six of one, and half-a-dozen
of the other.

I have now shown the reader, as clearly and
concisely as I could, how to dress the usual sorts
of trout and grayling flies. The cuts are rather
rough ones, because the models were designedly
left in a rough state ; lest if they were too much
fined down, and finished, the learner, seeing that
he could not easily approach their neatness, might
be deterred from fly-dressing. When he can tie
flies in this passably rough way, he must get
finished models — those made by Blacker, of 54
Dean Street, Soho, being the best I have as yet
seen ; and laying them before him, he must pick,
trim, and shave his own rough insect statues until
he can fashion them as delicately as the most
cunning professional artist. If he confide in the
sure and steady improving progress which time
and perseverance invariably produce, he will
become his own complete artist in flies. In ar-
ranging the heads of this chapter, Mrs. Little,
the wife of Mr. Little, fishing-tackle maker, No.
15 Fetter Lane, courteously assisted me.

SUBSTANCES FOR FLY-MAKING. 85

MATERIALS USED IN FLY-DRESSING.

The substances the fly-dresser wants wherewith
to make his flies are exceedingly various, — chiefly
feathers, fur, hair, and silk. The colours he
requires are still more various than the materials,
and, therefore, some of the latter must be dyed.
There is scarcely a bird or quadruped, particularly
the smaller sorts, that does not contribute to the
fly-dresser's magazine. The fly-maker who is a
good judge of colour has an immense advantage
over him who is not ; he will find many suitably-
coloured materials where the bad judge would
never think of looking for them.

Feathers are obtained, remarks Mr. Elaine, from
nearly every bird, from the gigantic ostrich down
to the Lilliputian wren. Nothing can well be com-
moner for making flies than the ostrich harl, or
the individual fibres of some of the plumes of that
bird, dyed variously. Peacock harls, or single
fibres of its largest feathers, are still more common
for the bodies of flies. The wings of small flies
are made of the wing-feathers of the starling,
lark, landrail, hen pheasant, partridge, woodcock,
plover, snipe, dotterel, sea-swallow, sea-gull, wild
duck, teal, water-hen, domestic hen, and many
other birds. The tomtit's tail affords an excellent
blue feather for wings and hackle. Foreign birds

86 HACKLE-FEATHEKS.

afford an infinite variety of feathers for gaudy
flies.

Hackle-feathers are very valuable, and, as Mr.
Elaine says, ' they are generally those which deck
the neck and rump of the cock. Such haekles
only should be chosen as have fibres about half an
inch long, and those from the game-fowl are to be
preferred. The principal colours are white, black,
grizzled, grey,, ginger, light red, dark red, and the
variety in which the dark red is divided by a
black listing. The dun or blue hackle is difficult
to obtain, not only on account of the colour, but
because, as it is wanted to dress minute flies (the
duns), those of the dun cock are rather too long
and gross, and those of the dun hen too weak.'
The dun hackle is seldom to be got pure. Fowls'
feathers should be plucked in winter, and from
full-grown birds. The feathers of male fowls are
generally the best. The backs and tails of the
partridge, grouse, golden plover, snipe, and some
other wild fowl, afford excellent hackles. Golden
pheasant's feathers from the head and neck are
most valuable for salmon flies.

Furs can be easily got at the furriers'. Those
most wanted are bear's, — grey, black, brown, and
dun of every shade ; badger's, sable, and martin's
fur, particularly the parts about the head of the
former, and the yellow-spotted portions under the
jaws of the latter ; squirrel's fur, American and

BEST SORTS OF HAIR AND FUR. 87

English : also the fur of the water and house rat,
field-mouse, mole, hedgehog, seal, both dyed and
natural. Skins of the black, sandy, and grey
rabbit, in all their varieties, are useful; also those
of the ferret, weasel, and polecat. The fur of the
ears, head, and neck of the hare is most useful.
Mr. Elaine advises ' that skins of all kinds, when
they fall in the angler's way, should be looked
over, and any striking portions preserved, every
one of which may prove valuable in the hour of
need.'

Of hair, there is none more useful than that
called ( hog's down.' Naturally it is of various
colours, and can be dyed of any hue advan-
tageously. It resists the water well, and when
immersed in that element retains its vividness of
colour, whatever that may be. I have a high
opinion of mohair, which can be obtained of
every colour. Worsted is only suited for the
bodies of large flies.

For tying on flies the best silk is that which is
the finest and strongest. Undyed silk is always
the strongest, and the floss silk used for making
delicate fringes, and the sewing-silk employed in
the finest sort of glove-work, are perhaps the best.
If you use them of different colours, wax them
with the wax, to make which I have already given
you a recipe. If you use white silk only, you
must wax with wax dyed the general colour of

88 RECIPES FOR DYEING.

the body of the fly you are dressing. Common
shoemaker's wax is, however, the most useful;
and, unless we be very particular, it may on all
occasions supersede dyed wax. Thick floss silk
and camlet of various hues are necessary for the
bodies of some flies and palmers.

The instruments for fly-dressing are few, and
practice will make them fewer. At first you will
want a small table-vice, a small spring-pliers, a
penknife with a file-blade, two pairs of scissors
of the very best manufacture — one with long and
fine blades, ending in the sharpest and finest
points, another with short stout blades and large
finger-loops, and as correctly pointed as the other.
A large needle, with a fine point and fitted into a
small handle, is necessary to divide the wings, to
pick out the dubbing, and to free the fibres of the
hackle when required.

A FEW RECIPES FOR DYEING.

Under the head of the May-fly, will be found a
recipe for dyeing feathers a yellowish green.
Mr. Packer, in his ' Dyer's Guide,' dyes feathers
yellow thus :•. — Into a saucepan three parts filled
with soft water, put the feathers to be dyed ; and
when they are thoroughly wetted, add a small
quantity of sulphate of iron. Simmer them over
a moderate fire a few minutes, and the feathers

FIRST PROCESS OF DYEING. 89

will have gained the colour-base or mordant.
Eemove the liquor from the feathers, and put to
them instead a smaller quantity of soft water ; and
when it is of a simmering heat, add a small
quantity of powdered Aleppo galls.

The requisite shades of dun colour may be
obtained by varying the quantities of the iron
and galls. For a full dark dun, add sufficient
quantities of the sulphate and galls. By increas-
ing or diminishing the proportions of either of
these articles, you will obtain duns of divers
shades. If logwood be used instead of galls, a
different tint will be the result. Madder, cam-
wood, the bark of the alder-tree, walnut -peels,
produce different hues. Grails, logwood, and
madder should, however, be omitted when the
colouring is intended to approach a red or brown.
>The light shades in all cases should be first
gained, and any other deeper hue added after-
wards. Hard water should not be used in dyeing.
Having given to the feathers their mordant or
base, as already directed, add either sulphate of
iron, sulphate of alum, acetate of alum, or acetate
of copper, according to the intended shade. Wash
the feathers from the mordant, and put them into
a strong decoction of that plant which the dyers
call weld. Simmer them in this a few minutes,
strengthening or weakening the weld-decoction in
proportion as the colour is to be more or less

90 DYEINa HACKLES VARIOUS COLOURS.

brilliant. A little practice, and the noting of the
various results after each trial, will soon make
the angler familiar with the methods of varying
the colours so as to meet his wishes. These in-
structions, Mr. Packer states, apply to wool also,
which may be tinted in the same manner.

Mr. Ronalds dyes white feathers a dun colour
thus: — Make a mordant by dissolving about a
quarter of an ounce of alum in a pint of water,
and slightly boil the feathers in it, taking care
that they should be thoroughly soaked or saturated
with the solution ; then boil them in other water
with fustick, shumach, and a small quantity of
copperas, put into it until they have assumed the
required tint. The fustick and copperas will
produce a yellow-dun tint, the shumach and cop-
peras a blue-dun tint. The greater the quantity
of copperas, the deeper will be the dye.

To turn red hackles brown. — Put a piece of
copperas, the size of half a walnut, into a pint of
water ; boil it, and whilst boiling put in the red
feathers. Let them remain in it until, by fre-
quent examination, they are found to have taken
the proper colour.

To stain feathers an olive dun, &c. — Make a
very strong infusion of the outside brown coating
of an onion, by allowing the whole to infuse by
the fire for twelve hours. If dun feathers are
boiled in this dye, they will become an olive dun,

RED, PURPLE, AMBER, AND BROWN. 91

and white feathers a yellow. If a small piece of
copperas be added, the latter colour will become
a useful muddy yellow, darker or lighter as may
be required, and approaching to a yellow-olive
dun, according to the quantity of copperas used.

To dye feathers dark red and purple. —
Hackles of various colours, boiled (without alum)
in an infusion of logwood and Brazil-wood dust
until they are as red as they can be made by this
means, may be changed to a deeper red by putting
them into a mixture of muriatic acid and tin, and
to a purple by a warm solution of potash. As
the muriatic acid is not to be saturated with tin,
the solution must be made diluted. If it burns
your tongue much, it will burn the feathers a
little.

To dye feathers various shades of red, amber,
and brown. — First boil them in the alum mordant
already mentioned ; secondly, boil them in an
infusion of fustick strong enough to bring them
to a bright yellow (about a tablespoonful to a pint
of water) ; then boil them in a dye of madder,
peach wood, or Brazil wood. To set the colour,
put a few drops of dyer's spirits (i.e., nitrate of tin
combined with a small quantity of salt), which
may be had from a silk-dyer, into the last-
mentioned dye.

To stain gut the colour of weeds, water, &c.—
Make an infusion of onion coatings, as before

92 GUT STAINED A WATER-COLOUR.

directed ; and when quite cold, put the gut into
it, and let it remain until the hue becomes as
dark as required. A strong infusion of green tea
will dye gut a useful colour. So will warmed
writing-ink : the gut to be steeped in it a few
minutes, and immediately afterwards to be washed
clean in spring-water. You will obtain another
good colour by steeping gut for three or four
minutes in a pint of boiling water in which you
have put a teaspoonful of alum, a bit of logwood
the size of a hazel-nut, and a piece of copperas
the size of a pea. To make your gut a water-
colour, take a teaspoonful of common red ink ; add
to it as much soot, and about the third of a tea-
cupful of water ; let them simmer for about ten
minutes; when cool, steep your line until it be
stained to your fancy. This is a very good colour
for the purpose, but should be applied gradually,
taking out your gut frequently to examine the
depth of the tint, lest it should become too dark.

THE FLIES FIT FOR EVERY MONTH. 93

CHAPTEE V.

A MONTHLY LIST OP FLIES FOR THE SEASON.

ffw Jfrfcrnarw anfc JHarcf).

I HAVE NOT in this edition inserted so many flies
as in the previous ones. I have omitted several
occasional killers, and retained good ones only.
I have every reason to flatter myself that the list
as it now stands, amended and purified, will be
found the most useful one ever laid before the
angling community. The flies described in it,
if properly dressed, will kill trout and grayling
universally.

No. 1. Early dark dun. — Body, water-rat's or
mole's fur ; wings, an old cock-starling's wing-
feather ; legs, dark dun hackle ; tail, two fibres of
a dark grizzled hackle. Hook, No. 9.

No. 2. Olive fly. — Body of dark olive mohair ;
wings, a starling's wing-feather, to stand upright;
tail, two whisks of a mottled mallard's feather ; to
be tipped with a lap of silver tinsel. This fly may
be advantageously varied by mixing with the mo-
hair a little yellow hare's fur, and tying on with
yellow silk. Hook, as before.

94 FLIES FOR FEBRUARY AND MARCH.

No. 3. The Ted fly. — Body of the dark red part
of squirrel's fur, mixed with an equal quantity of
claret-coloured mohair, showing most claret colour
at the tail of the fly ; to be spun on, and warped
with brown silk. Wings, from a ginger-dun
covert feather of the mallard's wring; legs, a
claret-coloured stained hackle. Hook, Nos. 9
and 10.

No, 4. The dark hare's ear. — Body, dark fur,
of the hare's ear ; wings, woodcock's wing-feather,
the redder the better ; legs, the fur picked out at
the shoulder ; tail, two fibres of the brown-mottled
mallard feather; small gold tip. Hook, Nos. 10
and 11.

No. 5. The hare's ear and yellow. — Body,
dark hare's ear fur, and yellow mohair mixed ;
wings, starling's wing- feather. To be made taper
in the body ; fur picked out at the shoulder for
legs. Hook, No. 10. Good in March and April.
A general fly.

No. 6. The partridge hackle. — Body, light and
dark hare's ear fur, mixed with yellow mohair,
and ribbed with yellow silk ; wings and legs,
the brown-mottled back-feather of the partridge.
Hook, Nos. 10 and 11. An excellent fly.

No. 7. The red spinner. — Body, brown silk,
ribbed with fine gold twist ; tail, two fibres of a
red cock's hackle ; wings, some transparent light-
brown feather; legs, red cock's hackle. Hook, 10.

FLIES FOK FEBEUAKY AND MARCH. 95

No. 8. The furnace-fly. — Body, orange-co-
loured silk ; wings, a fieldfare's feather ; legs, a
cock's furnace-hackle. A good general fly. The
feather called the furnace -hackle is rather a rare
one. Its outside fibres are a beautiful dark red ;
that portion of them next to the stem being black.
It is got from a cock's neck.

No. 9. Ho flanks fancy. — Body, reddish dark-
brown silk; wings, woodcock's wing; legs, red
hackle ; tail, two strands of a red hackle. Hook,
No. 10. This is a good general fly for trout and
dace, particularly in the rivers near London.

No. 10. The Maltby. — Body, cinnamon-brown
mohair ; wings, woodcock's wing-feather ; legs,
small black-red hackle; tail, two fibres of the
brown mallard's feather ; gold tip. Hook, No. 12.

No. 11. The cuckoo dun. — Body, lightest part
of water-rat's fur, mixed with yellow mohair ;
wings, hen pheasant's wing-feather ; legs, a dun
cock's hackle, with dark bars like a cuckoo's
back-feather ; tail, two fibres of a grizzled hackle.
Hook, No. 10.

No. 12. The March-brown, or dun drake. —
This is, perhaps," the best fly that can be used
from the middle of March to the middle of April,
and sometimes up to May. It is a large, showy fly,
and almost as great a favourite in March as the
May- fly in May. It has various names, viz. the
cob-fly, brown caughlan, and turkey-fly, and kills

96 ARTIFICIAL FLIES FOR MARCH.

everywhere. In a work I edited formerly, I find
the following note: — c On the 23rd of March,
1836, we killed with this fly, from one and the
same standing on the Dove, sixteen trout and
one grayling. We fished with two flies of this
sort on our casting-line at the same time, and we
caught three times successively two fish at one
cast. We should have caught many more, had it
not been for an accident that occurred to our
tackle; for, before we could repair the damage
caused by it, the rising time of the fish was over.
From the middle of March to the middle of April
it is decidedly the best and most killing fly that
can be fished with in the trout-streams of the
midland counties. We recommend the angler to
fish with two flies of this sort on his casting-line
at the same time, one ribbed with gold twist, and
the other without. The best time for fishing with
this fly is between the hours of eleven and three
o'clock, especially if the water be curled by a
smart breeze.'

Dress this famous fly as follows : — Body, orange-
coloured silk, or deep straw colour, over which
wind some fox-coloured fur taken from a hare's
poll ; legs, a honey-dun hackle ; wings, to stand
erect, of the top of the light or inner fibres of the
feather of the hen pheasant's wing; tail, two
fibres of the same feather. Eib with gold twist
for your tail-fly, and let your dropper be without

COCH-Y-BONDDU. 97

any twist. When the natural fly is out well upon
the water, and fish are voraciously taking it,
angle with three flies on your foot-line, varying
them slightly in size and colour. Hook, Nos. 8,
9, and 10.

No. 13. Blackens March-brown. — Body, light
and dark hare's ear fur, mixed with a little yellow
brown mohair, and ribbed with pale-yellow silk ;
wings, hen-pheasant's wing-feather, or grey mot-
tled feathers of the partridge's tail ; legs, small
brown partridge's back-feather ; tail, two fibres of
the brown mallard's feather. Hook, Nos. 9 and 10.

No. 14. The great red spinner is a metamor-
phosis of the dun-drake, and is in season longer.
It kills well on fine evenings, and may be used
in conjunction with the dun-drake. It is a fine
showy fly, dressed thus : — Body, brown red hog's
down, ribbed with gold twist, and tied on with
brown silk ; wings, starling's wing-feather ; legs,
bright amber-red hackle ; tail, two fibres of the
same feather. Hook, No. 9.

No. 15. The soldier palmer. — Body, bronze-
coloured peacock harl, ribbed with fine gold twist,
and two black-red or furnace hackles, struck with
strict regularity from the tail to the shoulder.
Hook, No. 10 or 11. A general fly, and special
favourite with grayling

No. 16. Coch-y-bonddu. — Body, short and full,
of black ostrich and brilliant peacock harl twisted

H

98 ARTIFICIAL FLIES FOR APRIL.

together ; wings and legs, a dark furnace cock's
hackle of the purest black and red colour. Hook,
Nos. 10 and 11. This is a famous fly. If fish will
not rise at it, you may conclude that they are not
6 on the feed.' They either take it for a small red .
and black caterpillar, or for a round black and
red beetle. Fine warm cloudy days are the best
for its successful use.

fnr

April is the best fly-fishing month for trout in
the year. That fish is then getting strong and
voracious. The water is generally in good tune,
being neither too full nor too low. The weather
is often as it ought to be : wind blowing west or
south with alternate sun and clouds. The tem-
perature is moderate. Fish are to be found in
the streams, and also in deepish water — the
largest and the best-conditioned in the latter.
The pools are often aptly ruffled by a genial
breeze, and can be fly-fished to the greatest ad-
vantage. All the good flies of March will kill in
April. Add to them the following : —

No. 17. Stone-fly. — Wings, a mottled feather
of the hen-pheasant, or the dark-grey feather of a
mallard, rather inclining to red, to be dressed
large, long, and flat : — Body, yellow-brown mohair

THE OAK-FLY. 99

mixed with light hare's ear fur and ribbed with
yellow silk, so distributed in making the body of
the fly that the under and hinder parts may
exhibit most yellow to the fish ; legs, a brown-red
hackle; tail, two fibres of the brown mallard.
Hook, Nos. 5, 6, or 7.

This fly is a large and tempting bait, but you
must have it dressed of different sizes, since its size
varies according to locality. In small, sheltered,
well-wooded streams the insect's growth is very
large ; on wide bleak waters it is smaller. This
insect is named by some the caddis-fly, It ap-
pears in April, and is found until July. It kills
best on warm, cloudy, windy days, especially in
the morning and evening. The live fly is an ex-
cellent one for dibbing.

No. 18. The eowdung-fly. — Body, lemon-co-
loured mohair ; legs, ginger-coloured hackle ;
wings, from the wing-feather of a landrail, to lie
flat on the body, and be longer than it. To be
dressed with orange silk. A general summer fly,
but seldom killing except on windy days.

No. 19. The oak-fly, or down-looker. — This fly
is my fancy. It is generally considered as fit
chiefly for the summer months, but I consider it
the best English trout-fly for those April days
which are not too cold and windy. During the
last fortnight of April the fly-fisher should never
angle without this fly. It is called by some the

H 2

100 FLIES FOR APRIL — SAND-FLY.

ash-fly, cannon-fly, and woodcock-fly. It is found
on the trunks of trees by the river-side, in a state
of quietude, its wings lying close to its back, and
its head looking downwards — hence one of its
names. In May and June this fly is also in season,
and it will kill well in deep streams, and on pools
that are ruffled by a strong but tepid wind. I
shall give but one way of dressing it, the very
best, which is as follows : —

Body, yellow mohair, ribbed regularly with
dark-brown silk ; legs, a honey-dun hackle wound
thrice under the wings, which are to lie flat and
short, and be made of the wing-feather of a young
partridge or hen-pheasant. To be tipped with
pale gold twist. Hook, Nos. 8, 9, and 10.

No. 20. The sand-fly. — Body, bright sandy-
coloured fur from the hare's neck, mixed with a
very small quantity of orange-coloured mohair ;
legs, a ginger hackle ; wings, the sandy-coloured
feather of the landrail's wing. If dressed as a
hackle, the feathers from under the wings of a
thrush or red-wing will be found proper.

Of this fly Mr. Bainbridge observes, that 'It
may be considered as one of the best for affording
diversion which can possibly be selected, for it
may be used successfully at all hours of the day,
from April to the end of September; and is
equally alluring to trout and grayling.' Though
I have not so high an opinion of this fly, I think

THE ALDER-FLY. 101

it one that should be tried, in conjunction with
the oak-fly, in April and May. It may be used
of a small size in August. I agree with Mr.
Konalds, who says — ' My own experience leads me
to recommend the sand-fly during April and May,
on days when there is no abundance of any parti-
cular insect on the water. A fly very like it is
used in September and October, called the cinna-
mon-fly.'

No. 21. The grannam, or green-tail. — This fly
is very well known, but, generally speaking, it is
too highly spoken of. It lasts only for about ten
days in April, and its chief value is that it is a
morning fly, and will kill from sunrise to eleven
o'clock, when the mornings and forenoons are
fine, and the water moderately clear and low. It
is dressed as follows : — Body, dark hare's ear fur,
mixed with a little blue fur ; at the tail a twist of
a green harl from the eye of a peacock's feather,
or a lap or two of green floss-silk ; wings, from
the wing-feather of a partridge or hen-pheasant ;
legs, a yellow grizzle hackle. Hook, No. 8 or 9.

No. 22. The alder-fly. — Body, any dark claret-
coloured fur, as that which a brindled cow yields,
and that of a copperish hue, from a dark brindled
pig or a brown-red spaniel's ears ; upper wings,
red fibres of the landrail's wing, or red tail-
feather of the partridge ; lower wings of the star-
ling's wing-feather ; legs, dark-red hackle ; horns

102 THE KOBIN HOOD AND BLUE-BLOW.

and tail of fibres the colour of the legs — the horns
or antennce to be shorter than the body of the fly,
but the tail a little longer. Hook, Nos. 9 and 1 0.

No. 23. The Robin Hood. — Body, blue mole's
fur, blood-red hackle under the shoulder ; wings,
light-grey mallard's feather ; tail, two fibres of the
same. Hook, Nos. 9 and 10. Vary this killing
fly by substituting a brown-red mohair body for
the mole's fur.

No. 24. The blue-blow. — Wings, from the tail-
feather of a tomtit; body, blue water-rat's or
monkey's fur ; legs, a fine light-blue hackle ; tail-
whisks, two blue hairs. Hook, Nos. 10, 11, and 12.
Of this fly Mr. Elaine says : e It comes on early
in March, and continues through April, when it
is succeeded by a race of flies in which the blue-
dun tinge predominates in various proportions.
It is weM therefore to be prepared with the gra-
dations of this fly, of which the ashy-dun appears
the first. In favourable days the blue-dun will
kill in all the fishing-hours, particularly in April,
but best towards mid-day. It is likewise almost
universal on the British waters.'

Nothing can be more true than Mr. Elaine's
reasoning touching those very general and very
good baits, called palmers, or palmer-hackles.
He says : ' As they are meant to represent the
larvae or caterpillars of flies, as well as some of the
insects themselves, it is very evident that their

PALMER-HACKLES. 1 03

sizes and colours may be varied to infinity. If
our experience did not inform us that they are
very effective in taking fish, we should be natu-
rally led to expect it ; for as every tree and every
bush which overhangs the water teems with one
or more varieties of larvae, which must be con-
stantly liable to fall into it, and as from their
natural plumpness of figure they must form a
delicious morsel, we need not wonder that the fish
are always ready to receive them, unless something
more tempting (as when particular favourite flies
are on the water) is at hand to attract their at-
tention. As these larvae are continually appearing
in endless succession, so palmers are used to ad-
vantage from March until the latest period of fly-
fishing, or at least until October. In May, June,
July, and August they are, however, in the
greatest request. When the innumerable varia-
tions in the size, form, and colour of the larvae of
insects are considered, it is evident that the di-
rections in our angling-books to confine the number
of palmers to three, four, or five, are limited in
the extreme ; but it is still more erroneous to con-
fine their size to a No. 6 hook. On the contrary,
there is such an endless number of them, each
different from the other, that the dresser may vary
them in any way he pleases with effect, tying them
on hooks from No. 4 to No. 9 ; but keeping these
general principles in view, that when the water is

1 04 PALMEK-HACKLES.

fine and low, they should be dressed small, and
sober in their tone of colour, but when used on
waters which are disturbed, and the day is dark,
such as are larger and more conspicuously co-
loured are required.'

Palmers kill better in England than in any
other part of the Empire. They are better suited
to streams running somewhat smoothly through
flat districts, than to the precipitous ones that
dash through hills and mountains. I subjoin a
list of them : —

No. 25. Black palmer-hackle* — Body, black
ostrich harl, ribbed with gold twist ; black cock's
hackle wound over the whole. Hook, Nos. 45 5,
6, or 7.

When palmers are dressed large they may be
tied on two hooks, whipped lengthways, bend to
shank, on the gut.

No. 26. Brown palmer-hackle. — Body, brown
floss-silk, or brown fur, or mohair of a deep am-
ber, or a rich brown ostrich harl, ribbed alternately
with gold and silver twist; legs, a red cock's
hackle. Hook, as before.

No. 27. Red palmer-hacJde. — Body, dark red-
coloured mohair, with a little richly-tinted red
fur intermixed, to be ribbed with gold or silver
twist ; legs, a blood-red cock's hackle. Hook, as
before.

No. 28. Golden palmer-hackle. — Body, green

PALMER-HACKLES. 1 05

and gold peacock harl, ribbed with gold twist ;
legs, a bright red cock's hackle, worked with a
rich green silk. Hook, Nos. 5, 6, 7, or 9.

No. 29. Peacock palmer-hackle. — Body, a rich
full fibre of peacock harl, ribbed with wide silver
platting. Make a head to this palmer with a bit
of scarlet mohair. Legs, a dark grizzled hackle,
dressed with red silk. Hook, No. 5 or 6. This
hackle, dressed very large, will kill Thames trout
and chub of the largest size.

No. 30. A good general palmer. — Body, long
and tapering, of yellow mohair ; legs, a good
furnace hackle wound on from tail to shoulder ;
head, black ostrich harl. Hook, 4, 5, 6, or 7.

No. 31. The whirling dan. — Body, water-
rat's fur, ribbed with yellow silk ; wings, cock-
starling's wing-feather ; legs, blue-dun hackle ;
tail, two fibres of a grizzled hackle. Hook, 8
or 10.

No. 32. Dotterel-hackle. — Body, yellow tying
silk, with a very little blue rabbit's fur spun on it,
so as to show the yellow of the silk ; wings and
leg?, dotterel hackle round the shoulder. Hook,
12, sneck bend.

No. 33. Golden plover-hackle. — Body, yellowish-
green floss-silk; wings and legs, the golden-plover's
back- feathers. Hook, 10 and 11.

No. 34. Carshalton cock-tail. — Body, blue-dun
fur, mixed with a little of the light fur of the

106 FLIES FOR MAT.

hare's ear and yellow mohair ; wings, light fibres
of the hen-starling's wing ; legs, a turn or two of
a small light dun-hackle ; tail, two fibres of a
grizzled hackle. Hook, 11 and 12.

This month is one of the best of the season for
using small duns, provided the water be clear, and
particularly that period of the month which pre-
cedes the arrival of the ephemera vulgata, or the
May-fly, or green-drake. I shall give a list of
them and other good flies, and conclude the month
with its chief attraction, the beautiful insect just
named. Many of the April flies will kill in May,
and the duns of the latter month will kill in the
former, provided the weather be fine and the
water low.

No. 35. The wren-tail fly. — Body, gold-coloured
mohair, dressed fine ; wings, grey tail-feather of
the partridge; legs, wren's tail-feathers struck on
at the shoulder ; tail, two fine fibres of brown
mallard feathers. Vary the body with orange
mohair ; and for a third change, with green floss-
silk. Hook, 10 and 11.

No. 36. Wren-hackle. — Body, cinnamon-brown
mohair, dressed fine and carefully picked out;
gold tip at tail ; wings and legs, wren's tail-feather.
Hook, 11 and 12.

FLIES FOR MAY. 107

No. 37. Grouse-hackle. — Body, gold-coloured
floss-silk ; wings and legs, light-brown grouse
hackle, from the neck of the bird. Hook, 10
and 11. The last three are general summer flies.

No. 38. The little yellow Sally. — Body, light
buff-coloured fur ; wings, the yellow feather
under the thrush's wing, to stand erect ; legs, a
very small yellow-dun hackle ; tail, two fibres of
the same. Hook, No. 13.

No. 39. The black gnat. — Body, black ostrich
harl clipped close to the stem to shorten the
fibres ; wings, starling's wing-feather ; legs, a turn
or two of small black hackle at the shoulder ; tip,
gold or silver tinsel. Hook, 12 or 13.

No. 40. Hawthorn fly. — Body, black ostrich
harl clipped in the fibre, and dressed long and
spare, with two or three turns of a black hackle
round the shoulder ; wings, pinion-feather of the
jay's wing. Hook, 9 and 10.

No. 41. Sky-blue. — This is one of Mr. Konalds"
beauties, bred, he says, from a water-nymph. I
have a high opinion of its attractions when the
water is low and clear, and the weather propitious
— breezy, warm, with alternate cloud and sunshine.
Let it be dressed carefully on a small hook with
fine gut, and it will kill when larger flies are of
no use. It is made thus : — Body, pale ginger
mohair mixed with light-blue fur ; wings, from a
feather of the sea-swallow; legs, a pale-yellow

108 FLIES FOR MAT.

hackle; tail, a couple of strands of the hackle.
Hook, No. 11 and 12.

No. 42. Fern-fly. — This is an admirable May
and summer fly. It is very showy, and will
answer best on gloomy, sultry days. Towards
evening, I have been in my time very successful
with it, particularly close under the banks. The
proper-sized hook is No, 10; and when the water
is very low, a size smaller. The body is to be
made of deep brilliant-coloured orange silk,
whipped sparingly with fine gold wire; wings,
lying rather flat, to be made of the light mottled
fibres of a young partridge's wing-feather ; legs,
a turn or two of a small fiery-red hackle. Hook,
11 and 12.

No. 43. The bluebottle. — Body, stone-blue floss-
silk, tipped with gold ; wings, starling tied flat ;
legs, black hackle. Hook, 8, 9, and 10.

When trout and grayling are gorged with the
May-fly and other day-flies, they often take freely,
towards evening, an imitation of the house-fly
and bluebottle. Such imitations kill all the
summer through on dark windy days. They are
more freely taken by chub and dace than by
trout.

No. 44. The wasp-fly. — I have a good opinion
of this fly ; for its body is well-coloured, and it
must prove a favourite with fish. Besides, the
body is large and taper ; and with its alternate

FLIES FOR MAT. 109

dark and yellow rings, fish must like its appear-
ance. I have always had the best opinion of
these regularly party-coloured flies, with some-
what large bodies, ringed with either black and
white, black and yellow, brown and yellow, or
orange spiral stripes, and having large, reticulated,
transparent wings, with dark heads, and darkish
tails. Such are the March-brown, the oak-fly,
the hare's-ear-and-yellow, the wasp-fly, and a few
others. If these flies are tied very large, they
will kill salmon, the largest species of trout, and
the largest chub. Tied on 9 and 10 hooks, they
are excellent general brook-flies for trout and
grayling. The wasp-fly is dressed thus : — Body,
light orange mohair, dubbed in very thin ribs,
and alternated with black ostrich harl, neatly and
finely. Form the head of bronze harl; legs,
two turns of a light brown-red hackle. Hook,
No. 7, 8, and 9 ; and make the wings of a par-
tridge-hackle or mottled mallard's feather. Dress
it large, and the fly will kill well in the Thames.
There are evening and night flies which come
into use towards the latter end of May, and last
during the whole of the summer. They are imi-
tations of those large moths that are seen towards
nightfall flitting about the meadows in warm
weather. The dark-coloured should be used
early in the evening, those of a lighter colour
after sunset, and those that are white after that.

110 FLIES FOK MAY.

No. 45. The mealy-brown moth. — Body, any
soft brown fur, as of the hare, brown hog's down,
bear's fur, and the nearer the shade is to tan the
better; upper wings, the dappled feather of a
mallard dyed brown ; under wings, the soft fea-
ther of a brown owl ; legs, a brown cock's hackle,
wrapped four or five times behind the wings.
Hook, No. 5, 6, and 7.

No. 46. The mealy-cream moth. — Body, any
soft fur of a cream colour; upper wings, the
cream-coloured feather of the grey owl; under
wings, a softer and lighter feather of the same
bird; legs, a soft ginger hackle. Hook, the
same size as before.

No. 47. The mealy-white moth. — Body, white
rabbit's fur, or white ostrich harl, dressed full
and exhibiting a brown head; wings, any soft
mealy-white feather ; legs, a white cock's hackle,
wrapped round twice under the wings. Hook,
as before.

No. 48. The coachman. — Body, peacock's harl,
full and short; wings, fibres of any small white
feather; legs, a turn or two of a red hackle.
Hook, No. 6, 7, 8, and 9. This fly kills only of
evenings and in the rivers of the south, and in
those within forty miles of the metropolis. Trout,
chub, and large dace take it freely.

If moth-flies are properly used, they will take
the largest fish. A young angler should have but

FLIES FOE MAT. Ill

one at a time on his casting-line, which should
be of stout gut, not longer than two yards. He
should keep his fly on the surface of the water,
and must judge of a rise, if fishing in the dark,
more by hearing and feeling than by sight. He
must strike promptly, and play his fish with a
tight hand.

No. 49. The May-fly, or green-drake. — This
famous fly is the opprobrium of fly-makers. Try
how they will, they cannot in my opinion imitate
it well. The wings are their greatest foil. In
making the body they succeed tolerably well.
Still the best imitation is defective, and, except
upon certain occasions, the artificial May-fly is
not a deadly bait. The natural fly used in dib-
bing far surpasses it. However, the imitation,
faulty as it is, will kill when the natural fly is
scarce on the water, as in cold, dark, windy days.
The artificial fly kills in currents and pools that
are moved to small waves and billows by a bluff
west or south wind.

The general feather used for the wings of this
fly is a dappled one found by the sides under the
wings of the mallard, and dyed a pale green-
yellow colour. To hit the true colour is the
great difficulty. To get over it I know not how.
I must be content to cite the best authorities.
First, I will take Mr. Blacker, a capital judge of
colours, who dyes his feathers yellow according to

112 FLIES FOR MAY.

the following recipe : — Boil two or three hand-
fuls of yellow wood one hour in a quart of soft
water ; wash the mallard hackles in soap and hot
water; then boil them a short time, with a large
spoonful of alum and tartar, in a little pipkin
with a pint of water ; take them out and immerse
them in your yellow decoction, and simmer them
slowly for an hour or two. The shorter the
simmering, the paler the yellow of the feathers ;
take them out and wash them in clear hard water.
When there is occasion for dyeing yellow-green,
add a little blue, more or less, according to the
shade of green you wish to give to the yellow. —
Mr. Eon aids recommends another way for dye-
ing mallard's feathers for the May-fly's wings. He
tells us to make a mordant by dissolving about a
quarter of an ounce of alum in a pint of water, and
then to slightly boil the feathers in it to get the
grease out of them, after which to boil them in
an infusion of fustick to procure a yellow, and
then to subdue the brightness of the yellow by
adding a little copperas to the infusion. — Having
now the wing-feathers dyed, I'll tell you how to
make the fly: — Body, bright yellow mohair, or
floss-silk, ribbed slightly with light bronze pea-
cock's harl ; wings, mottled feather of the mallard
dyed a pale yellow-green. They are to stand
nearly erect, and to be slightly divided. Legs,
a couple of turns of a red-ginger hackle; tail,

FLIES FOE MAY. 113

three hairs from the rabbit's whisker. Hook,
Nos. 5 , 6, and 7. Another way : — Body, yellow-
green mohair; wings, mallard's feather dyed yel-
low— a black head; legs, yellowish hackle; tail,
three hairs from a black bear. A third way
(Blacker's): — Body, yellow silk ribbed with
brown silk, and a narrow strip of fine transparent
gold-beater's skin wound over all, through which
the yellow and brown ribbed body will appear
naturally ; wings, as before ; legs, a yellow griz-
zled dun-hackle ; tail as before.

During the season of the May- fly, should the
weather be gloomy, with a strong warm wind, I
would angle with three flies of different sizes,
and having the wings of colours slightly differing,
and one made buzz without erect wings ; because
doing so would afford me three different chances
of success.

No. 50. The grey-drake is said to be a metamor-
phosis of the green-drake, or female changed to a
male. This fly is seldom a good angling one, and
never kills well except towards evening. Dress it
thus: — Body, exactly like that of Blacker's last
green-drake, but the wings are to be made of the
light-grey mallard feather not dyed. Hook, Nos.
7 and 8.

During the prevalence of the May-fly, trout
fatten and grow into condition. They are never
so before that fly appears, and when it has disap-
I

114 FLIES FOR JUNE.

peared they remain in good condition until the
spawning season. When fish have gorged them-
selves with this fly and leave off feeding, towards
the evening they will be tempted by flies of very
different sizes and colours. The best are, for
mild weather, little dun-hackles of every shade,
the grouse and wren-hackle, house-fly, and at
dusk a moth-fly. Should you want trout very
badly during the drake season, try a minnow
morning and evening, and your wants will be soon
supplied.

$\it£ for Stun*.

I need scarcely remind the reader that the May-
fly prevails during the greater part of this month;
and that during it, several of the duns mentioned
for May will still catch fish. The following are
considered proper June flies : —

No. 51. Dark mackerel. — Body, dark mulberry
floss-silk ribbed with gold twist ; wings, brown-
mottled feather of the mallard, which hangs from
the back over a part of the wing ; legs, a purple-
dyed hackle ; tail, three rabbit's whiskers. Hook,
Nos. 9 and 10.

No. 52. Orl-fly. — Body, ribbed alternately
with dark -brown and orange dubbing, adding two
horns ; wings, landrail's ruddy feather, dressed
long and rather flat ; legs, a grizzled hackle.

FLIES FOR JULY. 115

Hook, Nos. 7 and 8. A good fly when the water
is clearing after a flood.

No. 53. House-fly. — Body, black ostrich harl
dressed rather full ; wings, a lark's wing- feather to
lie flat and extended ; legs, a dark dun-hackle.
Hook, Nos. 9 and 10. In autumn, on windy days,
this fly is often taken greedily by trout and gray-
ling. It is a better fly for chub and dace.

No. 54. Blue gnat. — Body, blue-dun mohair
with a little orange-coloured mixed ; wings and
legs, a small dan-hackle wound over the whole
of the body. To be dressed with orange silk.
Hook, Nos. 10, 11, and 12. An excellent fly
throughout the summer and autumn, when the
water is low and clear.

jfltfg far 3 uli).

Nearly all the flies mentioned in the list for
last month will kill in this, but, generally speaking,
they must be dressed smaller, and on finer hooks
and gut.

No. 55. Large black ant-fly. — Body, black
ostrich harl dressed thick near the wings, then
thin, and thick again at the tail, like the shape of
the ant; wings, tomtit's tail, or any light-blue
transparent feather ; legs, two twists of a deep
brown hackle close under the wings. Hook,
Nos. 7 and 8.

I 2

116 FLIES FOR JULY.

No. 56. Large red ant-fly. — Body, copper-
coloured peacock's harl, full near the wings and
tail; wings, a lark's wing-feather; legs, red cock's
hackle. Hook, Nos. 7 arid 8. When the water is
low and clear, these flies should be dressed smaller,
on Nos. 9 and 10 hooks. They will kill well in
the middle parts of the day in fine warm weather.
They are good autumn-flies.

No. 57. Pale dun. — Body, yellow martin's fur ;
wings, a lark's wing-feather, stained a light yellow ;
legs, a fine honey-dun hackle. To be dressed
very neatly with pale straw-coloured silk on a
No. 12 hook. An excellent summer-fly in low
and clear water.

No. 58. The little gosling. — Body, yellow-
green mohair, or floss-silk ; wings, bunting's
wing-feather; legs, cinnamon-hackle. Hook,
No. 12 and 13.

No. 59. The grey housewife. — Body, light-
brown mohair, mixed with hare's ear fur ; wings,
hen-pheasant's wing-feather ; legs, grey throat-
feather of the partridge ; tail, two fibres of the
mallard. Hook, Nos. 10 and 11.

No. 60. The little ash dun.— Body, light ash-
coloured fur ; wings, bunting's wing-feather ; legs,
cinder-coloured dun-hackle ; and tail, two fibres of
the same. Hook, No. 14.

No. 61. Emerald fly. — Body, emerald-green
mohair, or silk ; wings, bunting ; legs, black-red

FLIES FOR AUGUST. 117

hackle ; tail, two fibres of a grizzled dun-hackle.
Hook, Nos. 13 and 14.

The wren and grouse hackles before mentioned
should be always tried throughout this month and
the next.

$\it£ for Uttflutft.

Small palmer-hackles, small ant-flies, will kill
well this month, and in the evening the various
moths. Small brown-bodied flies will kill well
also, and so will the different duns and hackles
recommended for July.

No. 62. August dun. — This is one of the best
flies that can be used for August and September.
Mr. Eonalds dresses it thus: — Body, brown floss-
silk ribbed with yellow silk thread ; wings, feather
of a brown hen's wing ; legs, plain red hackle
stained brown ; tail, two rabbit's whiskers.
Hook, Nos. 9 and 10.

No. 63. Cinnamon-fly. — Body, seal's fur not
dyed ; wings, of a ruddy cream colour, from a
feather of the landrail, to be dressed long, large,
and flat ; legs, a red-brown hackle. Hook, Nos.
8 and 9.

118 SPRING FLIES KILL IN AUTUMN.

for

Still continue the palmer-hackles, with the
grouse and wren hackles, golden and dark duns,
alder-fly, Hofland's fancy, the cinnamon-fly, and
the following : —

No. 64. Harry long-legs. — Body, light dun
fur, mixed with hare's ear and a very little yellow
mohair, made taper, long, and thin ; wings, hen-
pheasant's tail mixed with a few fibres of brown
mallard feather ; legs, which are long and few, of
a brown-red cock's saddle-feather. Hook, Nos. 7
and 8. This is an excellent evening fly when
ribbed with gold.

Many of the spring flies will kill in September,
after which no angler should fish for trout until
spring returns again. In October, and during
the finest hours of very fine winter -days, grayling
are to be caught with the artificial fly, and the
best are unquestionably duns, blacks, and browns.
That fish being, during the above season, in fine
condition, will be caught with the gentle and, by
sinking and drawing, with the artificial grass-
hopper. It will also rise well in October at the
red-palmer, the soldier-palmer, and house-fly.

The seven following flies are exclusively Mr.
Blacker's patterns : they will be found universal
killers. The fly which is called the 'winged

GOOD GENERAL FLIES. 119

larva' is a recent invention of that clever artist:
it will be found the best general fly extant, and,
when made by him of different sizes, will super-
sede many trout and salmon flies hitherto favour-
ites. I have the greatest faith in its virtues : —

No. 64. The winged larva. — This fly is double-
bodied, the first being very short and made of
fiery brown mohair wound on the hook up to the
wings ; the second body, from which the fly takes
its name, is made of the shrivelled larva of the
silkworm, found attached to the refuse ends of gut.
It is to be placed beneath the mohair body, and
to extend from the setting on of the wings to
the bend of the hook which it hides. Its tail is
formed of two fibres of the golden pheasant's
neck-feather : its wings are mixed of hen-phea-
sant's tail and grey tail-feather of the partridge,
and when used for salmon there should be two
* toppings ' in the wing. Legs, a woodcock's
hackle, and for salmon a fiery brown cock's hackle ;
head, bronze peacock's harl. This famous fly can
be dressed on from a No. 4 and 5 salmon hook,
to a No. 10 trout hook.

No. 65. The amber-fly. — Body, cinnamon-
brown mohair; wings, mixture of the red and
grey tail-feathers of the partridge ; legs, an amber
hackle struck on from the tail to the shoulder.
Hook, Nos. 9 and 10.

No. 66. The golden olive.- -Body, golden olive

120 GOOD GENERAL FLIES.

mohair ; wings, starling's feather varied with fibres
of the landrail's wing-feather ; legs, golden olive
hackle. Hook, Nos. 8 and 9. An evening fly.

No. 67. Autumn fly. — Body, bronze peacock
harl, with tag of gold-coloured silk ; wings,
starling's wing-feather and grey tail-feather of
the partridge mixed ; legs, a black-red hackle.
Hook, No. 10. Dressed large and ribbed with
gold, this fly is called the f Governor.'

No. 68. The fire-fly. — Body, bronze peacock
harl ; wings, the top fibres of the ' moon' feather
of the peacock; legs, a furnace hackle. Hook,
Nos. 9 and 10. This fly should be varied with a
black instead of a furnace hackle.

ON DIBBING OR D APING. 121

CHAPTEE VI.

FISHING WITH THE NATURAL FLY, OR DIBBING OE DAPING.

ANGLING with the natural fly is an appropriate
summer pastime, and would not be deemed too
laborious by even lazzaroni. It fatigues no
muscles, for all the action it requires from them
is neat gentle motion. It abhors violence, and
is totally suaviter in modo. It is a pastime for
ladies ; for musing listless adolescents ; and for
the corpulent middle-aged, whose former sharp
gusto for active sports frequent pectoral lining
with good capon has blunted. If it make no
calls on the big muscles, it asks activity from the
eye and watchfulness from the brain ; it requires
from the fingers great delicacy of touch, and from
the arm the gentlest sort of action. Your object
in practising it is to drop a natural fly, fixed on
your hook, so gently on the water that the de-
scent will not differ from that of the free living
insect. The fly with the hook in it must alight
as naturally as if it were one fingers had never
touched. To cause it to do so is not very easy ;
it demands careful guiding and dropping, and
sometimes the most finished casting.

122 WHY WE DIB OR DAPE.

Let us see what induces us to have recourse to
a sport less exciting than artificial fly-fishing, and
more troublesome. Necessity is the mother of
substitutes. When the artificial fly becomes next
to useless, it is necessary to substitute the natural
one, or something else. The weather is fine, hot,
and breezeless ; the water placid ; the May-fly, or
other insects, are abundant on its surface ; and
fish of various sorts are stealthily rising, causing
eddies — the Scylla, Charybdis, and Maelstrom of
those reckless navigators, the ephemerae, and other
water-loving tribes. You see what the fish are
about : you guess that your artificial fly will not
beguile them, and you therefore flee for help to
the natural one, making it effective by an artificial
sting you add to it. The addition of this sting
requires attention; it must be so added as to
harm as little as may be the living insect. The
less it harms it, the more harmful it will be to fish.
Besides, there are places, no matter how favour-
able the weather may be, so opposed to facile
throwing with the artificial fly, that you must
substitute dropping or dipping with the natural
insect. You will see large fish rising under
bushes and branches of trees overhanging the
water, from under shelving banks and rocks, and
in divers difficult spots where the artificial fly
cannot be safely cast ; and a moment's thought
will tell you that the best way to reach these

BAITING WITH THE LITE FLY. 123

sheltered fish will be by the cunning use of a
living insect.

The first thing you have to learn is the best
way to insert your hook in the insect, so as to
injure it and impede its natural motions as slightly
as possible. There must be no roughness em-
ployed in the operation. The insect must be
handled tenderly, and the hook inserted so as not
to puncture any mortal part of your frail bait. If
you use but one fly, insert the hook under one of
its wings, bringing it out between them at the
back. If you use two flies, carry the hook through
the upper part of the corset between both wings
of one fly ; and then, taking another with its head
reversed, let the hook enter under one of its wings,
and come out at its back. This double head-to-
tail bait is a very good one. If you are fishing
in open water, with a breeze blowing, your winch-
line must be of floss-silk, and your foot-line of
about a yard of very fine gut, or of a couple
of long links of horsehair. Without casting, and
by keeping the breeze to your back, holding up
your rod and letting out your blow-line, you can
easily manage to make the wind carry it to the
spots where you see fish rising. When you dip
beneath bushes, your ordinary silk and hair winch-
line will do, with a foot-line of gut. By twirling
in your hand your rod, twist as much line about
its top-pieces as you want ; and then, inserting its

124 BEST TIME FOR DIBBING.

point through the branches, as far as requisite,
twirl it round reversely so as to uncoil your line
and to drop your natural bait gently on the water.

You can cast or throw the natural fly, but not
so well as the artificial one. Use a long rather
stiff rod, with a long taper casting-line, long
enough to use without having much of your
winch-line out. Cast with a gentle motion of the
forearm, bringing round your line softly ; avoid-
ing anything like whipping-violence, and making
your bait float on to the surface of the water.
Where the river runs uniformly narrow, use no
winch, but attach your casting-line to the top
joint of your rod, and you will be able to throw,
without whipping off your bait.

The drake season, that is, the season of the
May-fly, from the middle of May to the end of
June, is« the best period for dibbing, and the
May-fly is the best of all baits. We insert on
the opposite page a cut of an angler intent on
this sort of sport : you see how he hides himself,
and how deftly he has dropped in his hook and
line between the branches.

At the period just mentioned, dibbing with
the May-fly is quite a rage in the midland coun-
ties. We have then seen the Dove, and other
streams of Derbyshire and Staffordshire, swarm-
ing with the May-fly, and their banks thronged
with anglers of all ages and sexes, dibbing with

DIBBING WITH THE MAY-FLY.

125

it. Trout and grayling will scarcely take any
other bait. They gorge themselves with the May-
fly, and thrive admirably on the nourishment it
affords. "When towards evening fish are satiated
with the May-fly, they will eagerly take, by way of
change, house-flies and moths.

In dibbing you must keep out of sight of the
fish, and cause as little disturbance as possible.
You will observe that trout do not jump briskly
at the May-fly, but rise at it noiselessly, suck it
in, and swallow it ; and that they take that fly
generally as it is fluttering on the surface of the
water, preparatory to flight. They take it so,
but they frequently take other flies just as they

126 THE BEST INSECTS FOR DIBBING.

drop on the water, and others as they sail along
its surface. Large fish seldom jump at an insect
which is on the water ; they rise up to it, and
inhale it. if I may use the word, through the
water. Observe this operation, and just as it is
being completed strike at your fish. As your rod
and other tackle are strong in dibbing, do not give
your fish much play ; keep him on the top of the
water, his head out of it if you can, and you will
soon tire him.

Several sorts of insects besides flies are used
for dibbing, such as cockchafers, beetles, bees,
ants, moths, grasshoppers, &c. Flies, however,
are the best for trout. The May-fly, March-
brown, stone-fly, oak-fly, house-flies, and moths
towards evening, are those most eagerly taken by
them. The grasshopper is a most deadly bait for
grayling and chub.

There is a little book, called the ' North
Country Angler,' and written by a north-country-
man, which contains much sound information
upon dibbing. The writer seems to have been a
sort of poaching angler, taking an especial delight
in using the most killing baits, and caring very
little whether the method he adopts or recom-
mends be sportsrnan-like or not. He would no
doubt estimate sport by the number or weight of
fish killed, and not by the difficulty experienced
in killing them. We will take him, however, as

THE FITTEST ROD. 127

a guide to a certain extent. He is a practical
man ; but, like the generality of local anglers, who
have had no opportunity of measuring themselves
with ubiquitous ones, he is full of conceit, and
thinks himself an angling Admirable Crichton.

He says : ; I generally begin fishing in the shade
or under bushes in May, and continue it all the
three following months, which we call the four hot
months. Most anglers in those months fish only
in the mornings and evenings, unless the sky is
cloudy, and there is a brisk wind on the pools :
for there one may have very good sport, and kill
large fish. In these months, when there is no
wind and the sun is shining, from about ten o'clock
in the morning till four or five in the afternoon
is the best time for shade-fishing.' The author
then describes the fittest rod ; but on this point he
is not so good a judge as Mr. Elaine, who rightly
says : 4 A long and firm rod of twelve, thirteen, or
fourteen feet, with a very stiff top (a light, long,
minnow-spinning rod will be a good substitute),
is necessary for dibbing or daping — the length to
be suited to the situation ; if it be a very close
and confined one, eleven or twelve feet are suffi-
cient ; but we rather recommend that the rod be
of the general length, and that the reel, instead
of being attached to the butt, be fastened on the
second joint, when, by taking off the butt-end,
the rod can be shortened as occasion suits. A reel

128 A WINCH NECESSARY IN DIBBING.

is not thought requisite by the North Country
Angler; but it is evident that in no fishing is
it more wanted than in this, where it is required
to lengthen and shorten the line according to
circumstances; as, for instance, where, from a
length of seven or eight yards, it must be reduced
to one, or even less, and sometimes even to be
wound up altogether, that it may be insinuated
through trees and bushes ; and in such cases how
can it be so well done as by a reel ? '

The above question the Northern Angler
answers thus : — ' Your line should not be above
a yard long; and, where there is some difficulty
in getting your rod-top through the bushes, not
above half a yard, which, when baited, you may
wrap loosely seven or eight times about the rod-
top ; and when you have thrust it beyond the
bush, turn your rod round as many times, and
let your bait drop into the water. There is a
great deal of caution necessary in managing your
rod and line. Some pools are shaded only here
and there with a bush or two ; in such places you
may fish with a line a yard or more long; but
you must be sure to make your approach to such
open places cautiously, for the great fish lie very
near the top of the water watching the fall of
flies or other insects from the bushes where they
are bred or harboured ; and though you do not
see them, yet they will see you at your first

AN ANGLER'S REVENGE. 129

coming, and scud away into the pool, and not
return perhaps in an hour's time. I have often
been agreeably amused sitting behind a bush that
has hung over the water two yards or more, and
observing the trout taking their rounds and
patrolling in order, according to their quality.
Sometimes I have seen three or four private men
coming up together under the shade, and pre-
sently an officer, or man of quality, twice as big,
comes from his country-seat, under a bank or
great stone, and rushes among them as furiously
as I once saw a young justice of the peace do to
three poor anglers ; and as I cannot approve of
such proceedings, I have, with some extraordinary
pleasure, revenged the weaker upon the stronger,
by dropping in my bait half a yard before him.
With what an air of authority and grandeur have
I seen the qualified — what shall I call him ? —
extend his jaws, and take in the delicious morsel,
and then march slowly off' in quest of more, till
stopped by a smart stroke which I have given
him, though there is no occasion to do so in this
way of fishing, for the great ones nearly always
hook themselves ! '

All said by this authority generally refers to
dibbing about and under bushes, and so far his
advice is good. Do not follow him when you dib
in open water. There use a winch and blow-line,
and short foot -line, and with a slight wind you
K

130 DIBBINa IN SHADED WATER.

will be able to convey your bait to any spot you
fancy. If the weather be too still for the use of
the blow -line, try and cast your insect gently, as
you would your artificial stretcher when you do
not wish to make any — the slightest disturbance
— in low, smooth, clear water.

I must quote a few lines of the North-country-
man again. He remarks justly that, ' Although
the shade of trees and bushes is much longer and
greater on the south side of the river than on the
north, yet on this latter side I have always found the
most and the largest trout. I suppose the sun being
more intense and warm on the north side, with its
southern aspect, may occasion more flies, erucas,
and insects of various sorts to creep upon those
bushes, and consequently the more fish will fre-
quent them. Where the trees or bushes are very
close, I advise the bush-angler to take a hedging-
bill or hatchet, or in want of that his sporting
knife, and cut off two or three branches here and
there at proper places and distances, and so make
little convenient openings, at which he may put in
his rod and line ; but this is to be done some time
before he comes to fish there. If you come to a
woody place, where you have no such conveni-
ences, and where, perhaps, there is a long pool,
and no angling with the fly, or throwing the rod,
there you may be sure of many and large fish.
For that very reason I have chosen such places,

DIBBING FOB CHUB. 131

though very troublesome, where I have been
forced to creep under trees and bushes, dragging
my rod after me, with the very top of it in my
hand, to get near the water ; and I have been well
paid for all my trouble. .Whilst you are getting
in your rod, throw a brandling or grub, or what
you fish with, into the place, which will make the
fish take your bait the more boldly.'

The grasshopper is a most valuable bait for
dibbing for grayling and chub. The former fish
will take an artificial grasshopper well, by sinking
it in the water and drawing it up gently to the
surface. The natural insect is the best, however,
for chub. On the next page is a representation
of an angler intent on dibbing for chub.

You see that he is hiding himself as much as he
can ; and thinking that there are fish peering
from beneath the leaves on the surface of the
water, he drops his bait first on one of those
leaves, and then by a sliding motion causes it to
slip off, and fall on the water. The fish, taking
this fall for a natural one, is not scared, but seizes
the bait boldly. Practise a similar ruse whenever
you can — wherever there are branches hanging
over the water, rocks, or other substances in it and
above the surface. On them first drop your bait,
and by a second motion cause it to descend on to
the surface of the water. Do this whether your
baits be grasshoppers, flies, caterpillars, beetles, or

K 2

132 DIBBING FOR CHUB.

any living thing liable to he hlown or fall from
hanks, branches, leaves, rocks, roots, or piles into

the water. I need not explain — it is apparent —
the rationale of this practice. You must see that
you are following nature. In fishing with the
grasshopper, let your hook be whipped on with
green silk on a link of fine gut, stained a light
green colour.

In dipping for trout and grayling with the
May-fly or stone-fly, Cotton says : ' To bait with
either a stone-fly, or a green or grey drake, put
two or three on the hook together, which should
be carried through the thick part of the fly's body

DIPPING FOR TROUT AND GRAYLING. 133

under the wings, with their heads standing differ-
ent ways : pass your hook through them under the
wings, about the middle of the insect's body, and
take care that your fingers are always dry when
baiting, or you soon kill or spoil your bait.' The
following bait I confidently recommend : — Make
a pair of wings of the feather of a landrail, and on
the bend of the hook put one or two caddies.
The head of one caddis should go up close to the
wings. Angle with a stiff rod about fourteen feet
long, a foot-line eight feet, and a hook No. 5 or
6. Let the bait float down the stream just below
the surface, then gently draw it up again, a little
irregularly, 'by shaking the rod, and if there be a
fish in the place it will be sure to take it. If you
use two caddies with the wings, put the hook in
at the head and out at the neck of the first, and
quite through the other from head to tail. Two
brandlings, or small red worms, may be fished
with in the same way.

Many are the precautions recommended to be
adopted in dibbing. The chief are to keep beyond
the sight of fish, and when you have hooked one
to get it out of the water expeditiously with as
little disturbance as possible. As dibbing is not
always to be practised behind the friendly shade
of bushes or trees, the angler is often forced to
content himself with the resources of the bank he
stands on, to which he should creep on his hands

134 CAUTIONS NECESSARY IN BIBBING.

and knees. In some cases, it is true, he may
procure the shelter of a hurdle interwoven with
boughs, or he may adopt some similar artifice ;
but many cases must occur where he can trust to
concealment only by prostration, or stooping low.
I place this chapter immediately after those
connected with artificial fly-fishing, for which I
consider it an occasional substitute, necessitated by
locality and the state of the water and weather.
He who has become accomplished in the practice
of artificial fly-fishing, will quickly become an
adept in the gentler exercise of angling with the
natural fly and other living insects.

ADVANTAGES OF TROLLING. 135

CHAPTER VII.

TROLLING. — RODS, LINES, TACKLE, AND BAITS, AND
METHODS OF USING THEM.

IN ENGLAND proper trolling is practised to per-
fection. It is somewhat depreciated, because as
yet not well and generally understood, in Ireland,
Scotland, and Wales. In those countries fly-
fishing is everything, and in them it is certainly
better and more generally practised than in Eng-
land. The English, however, are rapidly becoming
good fly-fishers. Let me hope that the Irish, Scotch,
and Welch are as rapidly growing good trollers
and spinners. If they follow my instructions they
have nothing to fear, and will find that trolling
is occasionally productive of average angling plea-
sure. When neither fty-fishing nor bottom-fishing
can be practised, in consequence of certain for-
bidding circumstances of water and season, trolling
can be resorted to as a first-rate substitute. The
largest-sized river-fish are killed by trolling, and
I have no doubt that this mode of angling would
prove very successful in the sea. A knowledge
of it must be a great resource to the angler who
visits foreign climes, and there dwells by large
rivers and wide lakes. Numerous letters addressed

136 TROLLING IN THE OLD AND NEW WORLD.

to me by Englishmen sojourning by the lakes in
the North of Italy, as well as on the banks of
the lakes and rivers of several parts of Germany,
in which immense trout are found, have assured
me of their success by means of trolling, and par-
ticularly by practising that branch of it which is
called ' spinning.' They have frequently killed
from six to ten very large trout, as large as
salmon, before noon, by spinning with the bleak,
gudgeon, or some other small fish. Trolling is
very successful in taking the gigantic trout of the
New World. An angler finding himself without
the delicate tackle necessary for fly-fishing, in
some remote part of the world where fish abound,
may, if he have a few hooks only and any-
thing to make a line with, very soon cut a rod
out of the next wood, ring it, adjust his hooks
into a flight of spinning-tackle, and work away
successfully with this rude gear. Towns are
generally built by large rivers, and most of the
latter, in this land of ours, breed pike, and some
of them, like the Thames and Trent, very large
trout. Such fish generally refuse the fly, are
seldom taken by bottom-fishing, but commonly
fall before the prowess of the troller. I have
just mentioned a few of the inducements that
ought to lead us to cultivate the art of trolling,
particularly as it is not surrounded with difficulties,
and as it is a smart exercise, requiring as much

SINKING AND ROVING. 137

activity and vigour to be called into play as is
conducive to hardy health. The fish most
commonly killed by any sort of trolling in our
rivers are pike, trout and perch — the best fish
they produce ; and that is a sufficiently strong
recommendation of it. I divide trolling into
three parts, viz., sinking and roving, trolling with
gorge and snap-hooks, and lastly spinning.

SINKING AND ROVING is easily practised, and,
at times, with capital success. It is done with a
live bait : a minnow or a loach for the common
trout and perch ; bleak, gudgeon, dace, or roach
for pike or large trout. Small gudgeons are
excellent for moderate-sized Thames trout and
perch — large gudgeons for the monster trout
and pike of that royal stream. The best general
bait for all sorts of trolling is the gudgeon. It
will be refused sometimes, and the preference
give'n to small trout, dace, or roach ; but the caprice
will not last, and pike will soon return to their
favourite gudgeon repast.

In practising sinking and roving, I would
have a strong long bottom rod, with good winch,
and prepared platted-silk trolling-line ; for foot-
line, about a yard and a half of the best gut. The
link to which the hook is tied should be of fine
gimp, if you expect pike as visitors ; but gut, or
three-twisted hairs, will do for trout and perch.
You must plumb your water, so as to have a

138 SINKING THE LIVE BAIT.

good notion of the average depth, and you must
put on a heavy float accordingly. If you fish
with a live minnow, the float need not be heavy ;
but if you angle with a large gudgeon, &c., your
float must be sufficiently large to prevent either
your gudgeon, dace, or roach from lugging it
beneath the surface of the water. The float is
chiefly used to prevent whatever live-bait you
may use from sinking deeper than you deem ad-
visable, but neither it, nor the lead on the line,
should be so heavy as to hinder your bait from
swimming horizontally on any side. You lead your
line also, but for a different object — viz., to keep
down your bait, and to prevent it from swimming
up to the surface of the water. Generally speak-
ing, you so place your float on the foot-line that
the length of the latter on the hook side will equal
half the depth of the water you are fishing in.
Observe this ratio in somewhat shallow waters —
three feet deep, a foot more or less. In deep
waters, where the largest fish roam, you must
sink your bait more deeply, about two-thirds or
more of the whole depth.

You must angle with strong, lively baits, and
put them on your hooks with as little injury to
them as possible, that they may swim about ac-
tively and for a long time, and appear unlike
captives to the fish you wish them to captivate.
Generally speaking, you will find a single hook

COLOUK OF TROLLING-HOOKS. 139

answer — its size to be proportioned to the bait :
small for the minnow, large for the gudgeon, and
still larger for the dace or deep-breasted roach ;
and you must insert it by the root of the back
fin, on the side of it towards the shoulder, between
the skin and the flesh. Some insert the hook
through the lips ; but I do not fancy that way, as
it impedes the motions of the bait, and speedily
exhausts its vitality. When the bait is hooked on
near the fin, it would be advisable to penetrate a
slight portion of the flesh with the hook, to prevent
the bait escaping by its own efforts, or to be
snatched off with impunity by hasty pike or perch.
Hooks used in trolling should not be coloured
blue ; they should be allowed to remain bright,
like steel as they are. They should be whipped
on the hook with white silk, the wax used being
of the same colour.

In sinking and roving, allow your bait to swim
here and there, generally at mid-water, but in
deep places, deeper, drawing it up gently to the
surface now and then, letting it sink again, and
guiding it to the best-looking spots of the locality.
Your float will soon inform you of a run, and you
must strike pretty promptly, unless when the run
is that of a pike. Then you must allow the pike
to swim away with the bait, and pouch it before
you strike. From five to seven minutes is the
pouching time allowed by me, and I find it quite

140 THE TIME FOR STRIKING PIKE.

long enough: some excellent anglers allow ten,
minutes. That length of time can only be neces-
sary occasionally, when fish not voraciously hun-
gry are but playing with the bait, and even then
I frequently strike in a very short time, lest the
fish should not pouch the bait at all, but blow it
out of his mouth after having examined it by the
sense of touch, and perceived something suspicious
about it. For my own part, except in trolling
with the dead bait, I seldom allow pouching time
at all, but strike as soon as I find my hooks are
within the fish's mouth. I very seldom miss,
nor do I think any good striker would often fail to
hook his fish by a stroke, simultaneous, but slowly
so, with the bite of pike, perch, or trout. Pike is
the only fish that should be allowed time. Trout
and perch should be struck immediately — stopped
by a smart check as they are darting off with
their prey. Their run is quicker than that of
pike, which frequently swim off very leisurely
with the bait in their mouth, to pouch it in peace
in some tranquil haunt. You can, therefore, ge-
nerally distinguish what sort of a run you have ;
if it be a trout-run, strike quickly — if a pike-run,
give time. The question of time is important,
and still remains doubted and discussed.

When you have a pike-run, and the fish makes
away for a convenient retreat wherein to swallow
the bait, you must allow him to move off with

ALLOW TIME FOR GORGING BAIT. 141

the least obstruction possible. Lower tbe point
or' your rod, and uncoiling with your left hand the
line from the winch, give it out freely as the fish
moves, so that he may feel no check by a tightened
line. Do nothing to disturb him whilst pouching
the bait, and after you have struck him, play him
according to the rules already given and by those
mentioned hereafter.

The following lines, embodying the opinions of
more writers than one, touching the time of
striking at pike, are worthy of attention. When
you have a run, or, in other words, when a pike or
jack has seized your bait, lower the point of the
rod towards the water, and at the same time draw
the line gradually from the reel with your left
hand, so that nothing may impede or check the
progress of the fish in carrying the bait to its hole
in order to pouch it. Do not strike until the
pike has had possession of the bait about seven
minutes, or till the line shakes or moves in the
water ; then wind up the slack line, and turn the
rod, so that the reel may be uppermost instead
of underneath, and strike, but not with violence.
Mr. Taylor, in his (to a certain extent) useful book,
says : ' The pike will, as soon as he has seized a
bait, run to his hold to pouch or swallow it : allow
him, therefore, five minutes to do so (unless the
line slackens before that time, which is a signal
that he has already done it), and then strike.

142 BEST ROVING TACKLE.

But if after he has run off with the bait, he makes
scarcely any stay with it at his hold, but goes off
with it again, you should not strike him until he
has rested a second time, allowing him still about
five minutes; but if he should run off again a
third time before the five minutes are expired,
draw a tight line, and strike him instantly.' In
fishing with snap-hooks or spinning-tackle you
must strike immediately the fish has taken your
bait. Of these tackle I shall write more fully by-
and-by.

There are many ways of baiting for sinking and
roving, and several sorts of tackle sold for the
purpose ; but the following cut represents the best.
It is from Elaine's ' Encyclopaedia of Eural
Sports :'—

You will perceive by the preceding illustration
that two hooks are used ; they are to be strong,
yet small, though the size of the bait be large.
Each is to be tied to a stout piece of gut three
inches long, and looped at the upper end. The

SNAP-BAITS. 143

lengths of the pieces, when looped, should be ex-
actly equal, and each loop should be fastened in the
hook of your swivel attached to your gut foot-line.
One of the hooks is to be inserted in the back of the
fish just before the dorsal fin, the other hook just
behind it. The hooks are to point different ways ;
and if they are properly inserted, and their gut links
of equal length, the fish will hang in easy and just
balance, and there will be no drag either way to
prevent it from swimming freely. A live-bait so
hooked cannot escape by its own struggles, and
neither pike, trout, nor perch can snap it off with
impunity.

SNAP-BAITS, — These hooks and baits are mostly
used at seasons when pike do not feed with suffi-
cient voracity to pouch their baits promptly.
Their merit lies in allowing the tr oiler to strike
quickly, before the fastidious fish, suspecting
something wrong, has time to eject the bait from
his mouth. The rod used must be short and stiff,
to enable you to strike promptly and firmly; and
I know of no rod more suitable than that which
is called the Thames punt barbel rod. Snap-baits
are two-fold — one which does not spring when
you strike a fish, and the other which does. I
will give you representations of each, taken from
Mr. Elaine's work. The first is called the live-
bait snap, figured thus :—

144 SNAP-HOOKS.

You see that it consists of three hooks, two large
ones tied back to back, with their barbs pointing
different ways, and one smaller hook tied on at
the top of the shanks of the others, and pointing
straight out from them. You can tie them your-
self thus : — Take two strong hooks, of size No. 3
or 4, according to the strength of their wire, as
well as the size of the bait. Tie each to about an
inch and a quarter of fine twisted wire, and again
tie these two wires together, including in the tie
a hook, No. 8 or 9, and also eight or ten inches of
gimp, which loop at the other end ; but in tying,
place the large hooks contrariwise, so that one
may point towards the head and the other towards
the tail of the bait-fish, which will greatly increase
your chance of success. To bait with it, enter
the small hook under the back-fin, and allow the
two large hooks to apply themselves close to the
side of the bait, with the direction of their points
reversed, as you see in the engraving. In good-
sized roach, or dace, snap-hooks can be better con-
cealed than in small fish of little pectoral depth.

The Spring-snap is generally used with a dead
bait, because it cannot be inserted properly in a

THE SPRING SNAP-HOOK.

145

live bait without doing it disabling injury. It
requires deep insertion in the bait, to allow the
spring to act, which it will not do without some
considerable resistance.

The spring-snap, not baited and baited, is shown
above.

146 DESCRIPTION OF SPRING SNAP-HOOK.

If you examine the tackle prefigured, you will
perceive that the two large hooks project from a
double elastic shank, flat and split, and which slides
up and down between two perpendicular wire
pillars. They are attached, as well as a small
hook, to a movable band above, and when sud-
denly and sharply pulled downwards below the
band beneath, the elastic shank separates with a
strong spring ; and the result is the insertion of
both hooks, or at least one, within the mouth of
the fish that seizes it, and at which you sharply
strike.

In the spring, summer, and early autumn
months, pike are shy, and fond of basking near
the surface of the water ; and if, as Mr. Elaine
says, ' one of them does seize the bait at these
times, he is apt not to pouch or gorge it, but,
after roving about with it in his mouth for some
time, he ejects it or blows it out, as anglers term
it.' Hence, then, the utility of snap-hooks, to
meet by prompt striking the snapping, and not
the gorging, of pike.

Captain Williamson says : ' At such times they
will seize a bait with great seeming eagerness,
but for the most part relinquish it almost instan-
taneously. When j ack are thus shy, the angler must
take them at the snap — that is, he must be quick
in striking so soon as the bait is seized. This
requires a particular apparatus, whereby the fish

GOOD PLAIN SNAP-HOOKS. 147

rarely escapes under proper management. The
snap-tackle may consist of a single hook, large
and stout, which, being fastened to strong gimp,
is inserted at the mouth of a gudgeon or other
small fish, and brought out either at the middle
of its side, or just before the vent. The treble
snap is by far the best, being made of three such
hooks tied back to back fast together, and secured
to a piece of gimp; which being inserted by
means of a baiting-needle at the vent, and carried
out at the mouth, which is closed by a lip-hook,
the three hooks being spread into different di-
rections, it is a thousand to one that the jack is
hooked.'

You can make a double snap in the same way.
Tie two good-sized hooks back to back; have a
sliding lip-hook on your trace. With a baiting-
needle carry the trace in at the vent and out at
the mouth, and draw until the bends of the hooks
are arrested at the vent. Fasten the lips together
by inserting through them the lip-hook. This
tackle, with the others mentioned, except the
spring-snap, is very easily made, and very fit for
those parts of rivers in which there are obstruc-
tions to the convenient practice of trolling with
the gorge-hook, or spinning. Where there are
confined holes, waters with piles, weeds, and roots,
the snap-bait with short line and rod can be easily

L 2

148 THE PATERNOSTER LINE.

dropped in to tempt the fish that seek refuge in
such localities.

The Paternoster line is one containing several
hooks whipped on short stiff pieces of stout gut or
bristles, so as to project from the foot-line hori-
zontally into the water, and to present divers
baits of different sorts and sizes. A plummet is
fixed to the bottom of the line, to sink it and
keep it steady ; and the hooks and baits are placed
from a foot to two feet apart, according to the
depth of the water. Three or four hooks are
quite sufficient for the paternosters used in most
of our rivers. The hook nearest to the bottom
may be baited with a worm, the one next to that
with a live gudgeon or dace, and the highest hook
with a live minnow. The paternoster is very
successful in the rivers, canals, and docks near
London ; it is very easily used, requiring little
more than close watching. If you wish to fish
moving onwards with the current, use a perforated
bullet, in lieu of the plummet, at the bottom of
your line.

The Gorge-hook. — Until you employ this tackle,
you can scarcely be said to troll. The preceding
modes of taking fish with fish -baits, though I have
placed them under the head of ' Trolling,' do not
embrace pure trolling. To troll, you must cast
your bait with a coiled line to any distance you
propose ; and then, by drawing your line in with

THE GORGE-HOOK.

149

the left hand, a certain portion at each draw, you
cause your bait to troll, generally towards you,
beneath the water. The rolling or rotatory mo-
tion of your bait in the water attracts fish to it ;
they run at it, swallow or gorge it, and then you
strike, play, and kill them. Quite the contrary,
however, may happen, to your great annoyance.
Since it is by trolling with the gorge-hook that
the largest pike are killed, I must be methodical
and minute on the subject. Underneath is the
figure of the common gorge-hook, and above it
is a hook baited, both taken from Elaine's great
Sporting Encyclopaedia : —

Generally the hook is formed of two single eel-
hooks, placed back to back, and joined together
with a continuation from their shanks of a piece
of twisted wire, looped at the end. The shanks
of the hooks, and a portion of the wire, are im-
bedded in a piece of lead rounded thickly at the
shoulder, and tapering off towards the tail. Some
persons make the lead of an octagonal or quadran-

150 BAITING THE GORGE-HOOK.

gular shape, which is objectionable and not by
any means so proper as lead roughly rounded.
About a foot of gimp is to be neatly attached to
the loop in the wire ; and when the gorge-hook is
baited, the gimp is to be fastened to the hook of
the first swivel on your trace. Two good swivels
are sufficient for your trace.

The gorge-hook is baited thus : — The loop of
the gimp is placed in the eye of a baiting-needle,
which is inserted through the mouth of the bait,
and the point brought out at the middle of the fork
of the tail. Draw the gimp towards you until you
find yourself stopped by the bends of the hooks
being arrested 1?y the mouth of the bait. The
points of the hooks are to be in an upward direc-
tion, as you see in the illustrated figure. A thread
of white silk whipped round the bait close above
the tail, will attach it firmly to the gimp within,
and prevent the bait from having its tail-part
injured, by being dragged backwards during its
progress towards the water.

Many persons do not allow the wire that is
attached to the hooks to project beyond the fine
end of the lead, where they attach the gimp and
bait with it as above. They contend that gorge-
hooks are too heavily wired, causing the bait,
when cast, to sink too deeply in the water and
make too large and loud a splash. The gorge-
hooks, with little wire projecting beyond the

r GORGE-HOOKS FOR WEEDS. ETC. 151

lead, are very fit for trolling amongst weeds, and
in foul places; but they do not act so well in
wide, clean waters, as they have not that necessary
stiff and firm hold on the bait, which prevents it
from being disfigured by crumpling up in the
cast. For ponds and lakes the long-wired gorge-
hooks are the best.

Neither barb of the gorge-hook should project
too widely from the sides of the mouth of the
bait. If the points of the hook do project too
widely, the fish may perceive them ; if not, at all
events they will be likely to get foul of obstruc-
tions in the water. Nobbs, the father of trolling,
remarks: 4I commonly make use of a single
gorge-hook, which strikes as sure as the other.
The double hook hath one advantage above the
other, that if it meets with such resistance in the
water that it loses one side of it, the other part,
with a little filing, may be still as serviceable as
it was before ; it is more troublesome than the
single hook in the water, and more apt to stick
and take hold of the weeds and roots ; it is best
for a great bait, for if you put a small and slender
bait on a double hook, it will hang out and bear
off so much in the bending, that a pike may not
only discover the delusion, but if he takes it, it
may check him in his feeding, and so hinder him
from gorging it.' Mr. Elaine says : ' Some
anglers sew up the mouth of the bait after they

152 THE TROLLING-KOD.

have introduced the gorge, which we consider as
not very material : the lips certainly conceal the
bends of the hook rather better when sewn up
than when left open, which is all the advantage
gained.' The gorge-hooks should be of different
sizes, according to the baits you use, and the size
of the baits should be regulated according to the
size of the fish likely to frequent the waters you
angle in.

A rod twelve feet long is considered sufficiently
lengthy for trolling with the gorge-hook. It should
be strong, yet light, and made of mottled cane, or
of ash for butt, hickory for middle pieces, and
bamboo for top. 1 he rings should not be made
of wire, but of strong brass or steel. They should
be wide, far apart on the rod, and their base should
be polished so as to let the line run most freely
through them. Trolling-rods are made to per-
fection by all the chief tackle-manufacturers in
London. The trolling-line should be of strong-
prepared platted silk, but the line itself should not
be too thick. Those of hair, or silk and hair, or
mere hemp, are bad, liable to kink, and there-
fore to run heavily out in casting. Hemp-lines,
though oiled or varnished, will imbibe moisture,
run out clumsily, and soon rot. A large London-
made check -winch is the best to troll with.

To cast your gorge-bait, you must unroll off
your winch as much line as you want to reach the

CASTING THE GOUGE-BAIT. 153

distance you intend to cast to. The line must
fall in free coils by your feet on your left side.
Take the upper part of your line in your left hand,
drawing the bait to within a yard or less of the
point of your rod, which lifting, the butt being
propped against your right flank, throw to your
right or left just as occasion may require ; and
letting free the line in your left hand, the bait
will be carried, the coiled portion of the line run*
ning through the rings freely, the length of the
line out. The bait having entered the water,
keep it about a distance of one-third the whole
depth, if the water be deep, from the bottom, but
generally speaking at mid- water ; and drawing
your line towards you by short and gentle pulls,
moving your rod in the same direction, try and
give to the bait a natural and attractive motion.
Do not, unless in case of emergency, lift your
bait out of the water, until you have drawn in
your line. Then repeat your cast, and go on
casting, moving with each cast until you have
left no part of the water untried. Your first cast
should be into those parts of the water nearest to
you, then farther out, and lastly, as far to the
other side of the water as you can throw. When
you have a run, let the fish move off with your
bait, and strike as before directed.

Very various are the methods of handling the
gorge-bait. Generally speaking, they are anti-

154 INUTILITY OF LONG CASTS.

quated and slovenly. The tackle I have just
mentioned will answer admirably, but you may
troll in wide waters with a larger rod than the one
I have described. Your salmon-rod will do when
you have no other, and find yourself amongst the
pike-lochs or lakes of our own country or amidst
those of any other.

The bait with a ten or twelve feet troll ing-rod
can be thrown sixty yards or farther. But these
long casts or throws are of no use generally, and
in making them, as trollers do for parade sake,
the bait is injured, and after it has fallen into the
water it cannot be put into anything like natural
motion for some time. Shorter casts are more
effective. Indeed, unless when you wish to reach
some far-off spot having some especial attraction,
do not cast farther at any time than from twenty
to thirty yards. That distance you can handily
manage by casting your bait skew-ways to it,
causing it to enter the water slantingly ; and you
can gather up your line before your bait has
sunk to the bottom of the water, or got injured
by hitching in any obstruction there. The truth
is, a trolling-rod can be very easily made. One
of those long tapering canes, sixteen or eighteen
feet long, specimens of which you see as signs,
shooting upwards and over the streets, at fishing-
tackle makers' shops, will, by adding to it half a
dozen large rings, make an efficient trolling or

SWIVEL-TRACES. 155

spinning rod, by means of which you can cast any
reasonable distance, and gather up your line the
moment your bait enters the water. Osier and
hazel nurseries will afford you long stout saplings
or shoots, which, if you cut them in winter, will
make useful trolling-rods.

I advise the use of a moderate portion of lead
only on any part of the swivel-trace. If the gorge-
hook is properly leaded, it will be sufficient to
carry and sink the bait without any additional
weight more than that given by the swivels. The
generality of trollers use too much lead, and troll
with too much rapidity. The following trolling
axioms are selections from good authorities : —

Siviv el-traces are necessary in trolling, for by
their means it is that the bait revolves quickly,
and has communicated to it a troll or rolling mo-
tion, which assists greatly in attracting the notice
of predaceous fish. Some troll wholly without
swivel-traces ; but we are certain that so doing is
a manifest impediment to the spinning of the bait,
and we therefore strongly recommend these traces.
By means of the swivel-hook the great convenience
of readily disengaging the tackle is obtained ; but
it is to be noted that, in releasing it, the ardent
angler sometimes is violent and snaps his swivel,
which is a reason why he should never be without
spare swivels, or indeed without duplicates of all
the minor articles of fishing apparatus.

156 GORGE-HOOKS THINLY LEADED.

Gorge-hooks of all sizes and figures are kept
in the shops. The necessity of having different
sizes of the gorge apparatus is apparent, from the
fact that you use it, in trolling for large and
small pike, with baits from the size of the min-
now to that of a roach of from two to eight
ounces. Not only should gorge-hooks be kept of
various sizes, but their shape, particularly the
leaden part of them, should be adapted to the
shape of the fish you use as a bait. The minnow
and gudgeon are round enough in shape to con-
ceal a round leaded gorge -hook, corresponding
with their size ; but for the bleak and roach and
dace, which are more flat-sided, I recommend
that the lead be somewhat flattened, and be
rather of a compressed oval shape than round.
Mr. Sal ter judiciously observes : ' I generally re-
move about a third of the lead from the brass of
those hooks which I find kept ready for sale in
the fishing-tackle shops, because I have found
when the lead lies nearly the whole of the length
of the bait-fish, and especially of a bleak or thin
roach, that when the jack strikes it, his teeth
pierce through the flesh and touch the lead ; he
then immediately drops the bait. Now, by re-
moving a part of the lead, as above directed, the
angler will find the remainder to be sufficient for
sinking, &c. his bait, and that it will lie at the
bottom of the bait's throat, or only a little lower ;

HOW TO LAND YOUR PRIZE. 157

and as jack generally seize their prey by or across
the middle, in such case their teeth seldom come
in contact with the lead, and they then retire
without fear to their haunts, and soon pouch the
whole.'

Mr. Salter and other authorities recommend
that when a large pike is struck in open water,
you should give him more line, and not pull hard
at any time, unless your tackle should be in danger
of entangling among weeds or bushes ; and when
this is the case, the utmost caution is necessary,
lest the rod, line, hook, or hold should break.
When completely exhausted and brought to the
side, take the pike up with a net or landing-hook,
or, if in want of either of these, put your thumb
and finger into its eyes, which is the safest hold
with the hand. When you have hooked a jack or
pike, and played him till he is quite exhausted, and
are drawing him ashore, make it a rule to float
him on his side, and keep the head a little raised
above the surface of the water, that the nose or
gills may not hang to, or catch hold of, weeds, &c.,
while you are thus engaged bringing your prize to
the shore ; for sometimes you cannot avoid draw-
ing it over or among weeds ; and we have seen a
pike touch and get entangled in this way, and,
before it could be disentangled, it recovered from its
exhaustion or stupor, and occasioned much trouble
and hazard before it could be a<min subdued.

158 TROLLING IN WINTER.

I think that the seasons for trolling are so well
laid down by Mr. Nobbs, the father of trolling,
that they may be transcribed without alteration.
He says : ( Though the depth of winter cannot be
recommended for angling, yet there are some days
in December and January that a man may pick
out to stand two or three hours by the river-side,
but the weather must be open and temperate.
The great fish will be soonest enticed with the
bait at that time of the year, because they lie deep,
and are not so careful of their own preservation.
There is another great advantage for the winter
troller ; the weeds are then down and rotten,
which are a great hindrance, both against throwing
the bait, and in keeping the fish from the sight of
it. Though a pike delights much among the
weeds, and usually makes his abode there, yet it is
very difficult to take him there, except it be with
a snap ; for if you give him the liberty of running
and playing with your bait, he winds himself so
fast about the weeds, that you may be in some
danger of losing both your fish and hook, if your
line is not very strong. Trolling in January, even
on favourable days, when the season is moderate
and the water in order, which is rare in this month,
is but labour wellnigh lost ; for if it is not a flood,
yet the ditches and brooks are commonly so rank
and full that it is but indifferent fishing. Feb-
ruary presents better prospects, and on some days

ARTIFICIAL FLIES FOR PIKE. 159

these fish take a bait eagerly. March too is
very seasonable to the troller, except the time of
spawning, which usually begins about the middle
of it, except the spring is very forward, and then
they will be disinclined towards preying. The
snap is now the most taking way ; for if you fish
at pouch you may have many runs, but scarcely
take one, except it be a small fish. These two
months, therefore, will try the pike-fisher's pa-
tience, even though he be wind and weather
proof. April will, however, in all probability
make him amends for his former sufferings.'

In the latter summer months, and on the fine days
in autumn, when the deeps are curled by a fine
breeze, pike are to be taken very pleasantly by
means of the artificial fly. The best imitation is
a very large one of the dragon-fly. Of the season
of autumn, Mr. Nobbs says : 6 The weather being
then temperate, and the weeds, which were strong
and high before, are now dying and falling to the
bottom. The rivers are then generally low, which
is a great advantage, because the fish are more
easily found in their harbours. They leave the
shallows and scowers, and lodge themselves in pits
and the deepest places. A pike is now very firm
and fat, having had the benefit of the summer's
food ; and if the weather continues open, and not
extraordinarily cold, you may take in part of No-
vember, which will add much to your sport,

160 MERITS OF SPINNING.

because the weeds will be more wasted and rotten ;
but if a flood comes in October or the beginning
of November, you may lay aside your tackling for
that season : for great rivers, like great vessels,
being long in filling and slowly mounting to their
full height, are again long in falling and settling,
so that the water will be thick and out of order,
unless frost or fair weather comes to clear it. In
small brooks and rivulets it is not so ; you may
fish in them again within a week or less after the
flood.'

SPINNING.

Next to fly-fishing, spinning is the most amus-
ing mode of angling. It is a dashing, killing
method, and the practice of it requires consider-
able muscular exertion. The arms in casting, and
the legs in moving on and changing ground, are
continually and strongly called into requisition.
Trout, pike, and perch of all sizes, but generally
speaking the largest, are caught by spinning.
Salmon, in my opinion and in that of a few
others, may be frequently taken by spinning with
a real bait or an artificial one. English travellers,
carrying with them into foreign lands their sport-
ing propensities, have been very successful, in the
lakes of Northern Italy and in those of Germany,
in taking immense trout by means of the spinning-
tackle. This I know from authentic private cor-

THE SPINNING-ROD. 161

respondence. In America, whether in the United
States or in Canada, eDormous trout and pike have
been taken by spinning. At our own doors we
know that, generally speaking, all the large
Thames trout are taken with the spinning-tackle.
It is active angling, not of course so refined as fly-
fishing, but it deserves every attention on the part
of those who wish to become accomplished anglers.
In spinning you cast pretty much in the same
way as you do in trolling with the gorge-hook.
Spinning-rods are magnificently manufactured in
London, and I like those best that are made of
East India mottled cane, for they are strong,
light, and of handsome appearance. They are
generally about twelve feet in length ; and with a
rod of that length, ringed in the modern manner,
not with wires, but with strong, hollowed-out
pieces of brass, and with a thin hard-platted
prepared silk line, you can throw your bait to a
distance of sixty yards — a distance, however, too
far to throw, except on trying occasions. For
my own part, I would have a spinning-rod made'
of a single piece of this mottled cane, fourteen or
sixteen feet long, well-ringed, with a screw winch,
requiring no winch-fittings ; and though it may
be awkward to carry (the only sound objection
that can be made to it), the advantages it would
offer are very considerable. You can cast wel
with it, gather quickly up your line immediately
M

162 ATTRACTION OF THE SPINNING-BAIT.

your bait enters the water, strike your fish better
with it, and play him when hooked in a satisfac-
tory and artistic manner. With a rod of this
description, you can troll for salmon and large
trout in the deepest and widest waters. In narrow
streams you can spin with a very small portion of
line out, and almost avoid casting ; the length of
your rod allowing you to drop in your bait noise-
lessly, wherever you like, and spin it accordingly.

Your bait spins by means of swivels on your
foot-trace, and by a bend given to your bait close
by the tail. The spinning or revolving motion
communicated to your bait as you draw it towards
you, makes it, no doubt, exceedingly attractive to
fish of prey. It seems then to fly madly for its
life, though it has none. Predaceous animals of
all sorts rush with might and main after the prey
that flees with the most timid fleetness from them.
The hawk darts at the frightened lark, the grey-
hound outstrips the wind, urged on by the fear-
ful strides of the craven hare.

Various indeed are the sorts of spinning -tackle
recommended by anglers. The great merit for
which they are recommended is generally that
they spin well, viz., that you can show the bait
in the most seductive runaway shape to the fish
you wish to beguile. The second merit is, that
the flight of hooks is so well placed, as to prove
a deadly thorn to the gentleman that dares to

FLIGHTS OF HOOKS FOR SPINNING. 163

pluck your rose. I can scarcely recollect exactly
the varieties of spinning-tackle that I have seen,
dozens and dozens having been sent me for my
examination and judgment. On the whole I have
found them too intricate, the flights, as they are
called, being composed of too many hooks. I
will mention some of the best of them, but first
describe those I think the best of all. In the sub-
joined engraving you will see them represented: —

The first, you perceive, is a flight of hooks, with
which, according to its or their size, you may arm
or bait with minnow, bleak, gudgeon, dace, or
roach. The length of your flight must be regu-
lated by the length of the bait-fish you use — a
minnow for the common trout and perch ; large
gudgeons, dace, and roach of from four to six
ounces, for large trout and pike. This flight consists,

164 HOW TO BAIT YOUR SPINNING-FLIGHTS.

you see, of no fewer than eleven hooks, that is to
say, three treble ones and two single ones. The
first single hook on the left is a sliding one, and
is called the lip-hook, because it is inserted point
upwards through the lips of the bait to keep them
close. The second single hook, with its barb
pointing downwards, is placed next to the last
treble hook on the right-hand side of the page.
When you use this flight of hooks without either
of the additions, numbered 2 and 3 in the plate,
you bait with it as follows : — Insert one of the
last treble hooks close to the tail of the bait, and
curving that part of the bait a little, keep it on
the curve, by inserting tightly the next single
hook in the bait higher up from the direction of
the tail. The proper insertion of this last hook
will keep the tail-part of the bait bent. Next
insert one of the middle treble hooks in the upper
side of the bait, without any drag on or bend in
it in the region of the vent, and then insert one
of the treble hooks (one of those next to the lip-
book) in the bait by one of the sides of the back-
fin, and lastly finish baiting by inserting the lip-
hook through the lips of the bait. No part of the
bait should be strained in its shape by the inser-
tion of any of the hooks, except that single one
which is used to give the bait a bend near the
tail. Every other part of the bait should lie
straight. A flight of hooks of this description

A GOOD BAITING APPARATUS. 165

should have at least two swivels on its trace, that
part of it within ten inches of the bait being
moderately leaded.

Now examine figure 2 in the cut. It is a
piece of flat brass-wire, arrow-shaped at one
end, leaded and looped at the other. Give it a
small sharp bend near the arrow-head, and pass
that head in at the mouth of the bait, and down
through the middle of the body to the tail, but
not out at it. The leaded portion of the wire, if
the whole is properly placed in and adapted to the
bait, will lie in its belly, and the exterior of the
looped portion will lie even with the lips of the
bait. Take your flight of hooks now, and, leaving
your last treble one ' fly,' or not inserted in the
bait, but projecting a little beyond the tail, insert
your downwards-pointed single hook in the side of
the bait between the vent and the tail, not straining
or dragging any part of your bait ; and then insert
one of the middle treble hooks in the neighbour-
hood of the vent above it, and your first treble
hook, on the left side of the cut, insert near the
back-fin; then finish by inserting the lip-hook
through, first, one lip of the bait, then through
the loop of the wire, and lastly through the other
lip of the bait. A moment's consideration will
show the reader the advantages of a baiting appa-
ratus of this kind. The wire, bent and passed as
directed, keeps the bait stiff and sufficiently bent

166 A NEW INVENTION.

near the tail, and the leaded part of the wire
renders the bait sufficiently heavy for casting
it the distance and sinking it the depth required.
The texture of the bait, receiving additional sup-
port from the wire and lead in the bait's interior,
is less easily torn in the process of casting or
spinning it through the water. The bait is held
extended, and cannot be dragged double by the
strain of the hooks, which frequently crumples up
and spoils a bait, having no such interior support.
When you use this leaded wire you need put no
additional weight on your swivel-traces. This
sort of spinning-tackle I am exceedingly partial
to.

The figure 3 in the cut is a recent and useful
invention. It is a piece of wire with an artificial
fish-tail affixed to it. The divisions of the tail
are turned different ways, like the tail of the assas-
sinating Archirnedian minnow, invented by Mr.
Frederick Allies, of St. John's, Worcester. In
passing through the water, and against it, a tail
thus divided and inverted gives the bait a regular
rotatory or screw motion, as you draw it towards
you. It is partly an artificial and partly a natural
bait. I have a good opinion of it. In using it,
cut off the tail of the natural bait, and, entering at
the cut end the point of the wire, pass it through
the body longitudinally, and out at the mouth.
The artificial tail now takes the place of the na-

A SIMPLE SPINNING-TACKLE. 167

tiiral one, and the wire through the body keeps the
bait-fish firm, straight, and in its natural shape.
You now insert the flight of hooks exactly as I
told you to do, when using the arrow-headed wire.
This bait will swim and spin admirably, not be
liable to tear : and if the artificial tail be made
with care, it will not glaringly disagree with the
natural body of the fish.

As I have already said, I am not partial to
a many-hooked spinning-tackle, and I especially
dislike them for spinning for trout or other
fish weighing under two pounds. I can spin a
minnow very prettily and very attractively with
a flight of only three hooks — that is, one double
hook to remain at the vent, and one single lip-hook.
I use this flight with the apparatus numbered 2,
or with that marked 3 in the cut. Either of the
above apparatus having been passed into the body
of the bait, I insert the loop of a link of gut, to
which a double minnow-hook is tied, in the eye of
a baiting-needle, which I pass in at the vent, and
through the stomach of the bait, out at the mouth,
drawing to the gut until the double hook, arrested
at its bend by the vent, stops there with its
double barbs apart and pointing downwards. I
take away the baiting-needle, and slipping down
on my gut a moveable lip-hook, I pass it through
the lips of the bait tightly to make taut the small
portion of the gut that is in the interior of the

168 THE MINNOW SPINNING-ROD.

bait, between the vent and the mouth, and I
finally fix this gut-link that contains the bait thus
armed to my swivel -trace. I have now a bait
that swims well, with a double hook projecting on
each side beneath the middle part of it ; and as fish
generally seize their prey by the middle, I do not
see why you should not seize them with this double
hook, if they once admit it within their mouths.
However, as fish very often run short at the
spinning-bait, and as, when they do, you cannot
hook them by means of one double hook only at
the vent, add a double fly-hook to lie along the
bait towards the tail, and a little beyond it. I
advise my young friends to use this latter tackle
when they begin practising the art of spinning ;
they will find it very efficient, and it is very
easily baited.

I have mentioned the trolling and spinning
rods best suited, in my opinion, for angling for
large fish. We should have an especial rod for
minnow-spinning. It should not be so stout by
any means as the usual trolling-rods, but it
should be longer : fourteen feet is a fair average
length. I would have this rod made of the best
mottled cane in all its joints, except the top one,
which should be of a good stiffish bit of hickory,
or solid bamboo, tipped with a couple of inches of
light whalebone. This rod should be ringed with
moderately-sized upright rings, and will answer, if

CASTING THE BAITED MINNOW. 169

well made, for bottom-fishing with the worm or
gentle, for dibbing or daping, and particularly
for angling with a tripping bait, as well as for
minnow or bleak spinning.

Mr. Elaine says : ' The minnow spinning-rod
requires length and strength, combined with
lightness, which requisites appear best obtained
by having it made of cane, except the last joint.
It must be neither too flexible nor too stubborn,
as either extreme will impair its utility : if too
stiff, the hook or the hold will be endangered
when striking ; if too pliant, it will yield to the
resistance of the water .too much to allow a ready
stroke to be made when a bite occurs, and the
fish will escape ere the effect of the stroke reaches
him. The first delivery of the minnow on the
water should be delicately done, so as to raise no
disturbance in it, either by noise or splash ; which
is managed by checking the impulsive swing, just
before the bait reaches its destination — at the same
time dropping the hand as well as the point of the
rod, which will thus check the bait, and lay it
lightly on the water. This effected, begin to
draw the bait slantingly across the stream, at
various depths, with a certain degree of regu-
larity, observing also to imitate the shootings of
the living fish in its actions ; and, as Colonel
Hawker, in the true spirit of a piscatory tactician,
observes, "if a fish comes after your minnow,

170 EFFECT OF NERVOUS FEELING.

never stop it, or in any way alter your pace, or
he will most likely be off again directly." More
fish are lost by the nervous feeling which shoots
through the young angler when he perceives the
first rush of a trout, or flinches from or starts
to it, than by any other course whatever. If
nothing of this kind takes place, the trout sees no
cause of alarm, and there need be no fear on the
angler's part but that he will himself strike the
fish at the regular pace at which he attempted
to overtake it ; and that being done, it only
remains for the fisher to fix the hook, or hooks,
within its mouth by a smart stroke from the hand,
if possible, in a direction contrary to the progress
of the fish.'

Colonel Hawker's spinning-tackle is an excel-
lent one, having only one fault, viz., that young
anglers will find a difficulty in placing the bait
neatly upon it. I can vouch for its spinning 'well
and killing well. Let it be made of large size,
and it will answer admirably for spinning with
dace and roach for the largest species of predatory
river fish. In introducing this spinning-tackle, the
celebrated Colonel observes: ( Trolling or spinning
a minnow is a most general mode of trout-fishing,
or, I might almost say, trout-poaching. It is,
however, very rarely done in a proper manner,
though every man, as a matter of course, upholds
his own system. I, like all the rest, did the

COLONEL HAWKER'S SPINNING-TACKLE. 171

same till, after fancying for years that I could
Challenge anyone, I was beaten and laughed at
by a trout-killing divine.

6 1 have got master at length of his plan,
against which all others that I had ever seen,

172 COLONEL HAWKER'S TACKLE DESCRIBED.

read of, or heard of, had no chance whatever.
The great advantage of it is, that it takes the
trout, when they run and bite short, by means
of fly-hooks that play round the other on a sepa-
rate branch of line ; so that I have often killed
three or four brace of trout without the minnow
being in the least injured, or even touched by the
fish. To describe the tackle properly, without
giving a plate of it, would be difficult if not
impossible.' The cut in the preceding page must
be examined by placing it horizontally before you.
Colonel Hawker describes this tackle thus : —
'A large minnow trolling-hook, size No. 1, is
whipped to the shortest link of gut, and to the
other a triangle of three No. 7 hooks,* which are to
hang about two inches below the larger one. These
links altogether form a harness, which is to be at-
tached to the line with a small box-swivel between
them. The perforated snout-lead is, however, first
put on. Having selected a white-bellied minnow,
of rather small size, and hardening it in bran for

* These hooks hang too low in the cut. The double hook
should be where the single one is, and the latter should be
about half an inch nearer to the tail of the bait. It is too
much the fashion with tackle-makers to tie the fly-hooks at
a long distance from the tail of the bait, whether natural
or artificial ; and the consequence is, that these fly-hooks
double back in casting, and get entangled in the hooks in-
serted in or lying outside the body of the bait.

173

an hour or two, first draw back the plummet, and
put the large hook into the minnow's mouth and
out through the right gill, taking care not to tear
any part of the mouth of the bait : then draw the
line three or four inches to you, so as to be able
to get the hook back again into its mouth. Then
take the minnow between the finger and thumb
in the left hand, and the large hook in the right
hand, and run the hook all down its back inside,
close to the bone, to the very end of the fish, and
let it come out about the centre of the tail-fin.
Then with your right hand pull the minnow out
as straight as it will lie, and press it into natural
form with the finger and thumb. Afterwards,
nip off the upper half of the tail-fin, in order to
prevent a counteraction to the spinning of the
minnow. Having done this, draw down your
plummet (snout-lead) again, and see that your
branch-line falls smoothly by the side of your
bait-line ; and if not, rub it with indiarubber
till it does. Your hook is then ready for action ;
and action, indeed, it may be called, if properly
done. I should observe, that new gut seldom spins
the minnow so well as that which is half-worn
out (by reason of the stiffness which encircles the
minnow's gill) ; therefore, ten minutes' soaking in
water, and sometimes a little hard friction of the
gut, just above the large hook, may at first be
required, besides the working of it with india-

174 THE LARGEST FISH CAUGHT BY SPINNING.

rubber. So much for this plan : there may be
many better ; but all I can say is, that I have not
yet seen one fit to be named with it.' By study-
ing the preceding cut, and explanations of it, the
intelligent learner will be able himself to make
such a tackle and use it.

It is supposed by some, that large pike are
caught less seldom by spinning than by trolling
with the gorge-bait. If the supposition be true,
it is because the latter bait is used more fre-
quently than spinning in places where large pike
lie, and not because the gorge-bait is the better
bait on the whole. I prefer spinning, even for
the largest fish, in wide deep waters, clear of
obstructions ; for I know that by that method the
largest pike are to be caught, besides the excel-
lent chance of killing large salmonidae. The
gorge-bait answers best in weedy waters, or in
those in which there are hindrances to your
spinning freely.

Be cautious how you bait your spinning-tackle.
It is not an easy operation; and the difficulty
attached to it often deters persons from spinning.
Practice will overcome partial difficulties, and
even entire ones of far greater intricacy. Com-
mence with the simplest sort of tackle, requiring
but few hooks. A practical lesson from some old
Thames spinner will advance you more in the art
of baiting than twenty written pages. You can

HOW TO SPIN YOUR BAITS BEST. 175

spin your bait up or down stream, across or against
it — in fact, in any direction that the nature of the
locality may render most convenient. The best
way, however, is to spin against the current ; for
your bait moving in that direction will appear like
a natural fish darting away up the stream ; and
trout, having their heads pointed that way when
on the feed, will be the more inclined to rush
after the bait. Generally speaking, it is not of
vital importance which way you spin your bait, so
that you do it well. Take care not to spin too
fast, by drawing in too rapidly too much line at
each backward draw of the left hand, or at each
motion towards you of the rod. Spin steadily,
just fast enough to make your bait revolve attrac-
tively, but not so fast as to make its speed greater
than that of the fish that is pursuing it. Make it
no difficult task for him to overtake your bait and
seize it with facility. In spinning you must strike,
as soon as your bait is taken, with a short, quick,
moderately strong jerk of the wrist.

The baits you use in spinning should be of
the most brilliant colours — the brightest minnows,
gudgeons, dace, roach you can procure. Smelts,
on account of their silver brilliancy, make capital
spinning-baits ; moderate-sized thick-set ones are
the best. The hooks used in spinning should be
of the bright steel-colour of the wire, not changed
to the ordinary blue hue of hooks; and they

176 ARTIFICIAL SPINNING-BAITS.

should be whipped on with light-coloured silk,
waxed with white wax.

The fish you intend for baits, provided you can-
not keep them alive, having no bait-kettle or well
in your boat to do so, should be killed immediately
they are caught, and not be allowed to lie about
anywhere until they die. If you suffer them so
to lie about, they will lose a portion of their
scales, and become less brilliant than they ought
to be. Dead -bait boxes are made something like
sandwich -boxes, some not divided in the inside,
and others divided into little compartments, to
keep the baits separate, and so prevent speedy
decomposition. If baits are put into bran the
moment they are caught, they will soon die, pre-
serve their scales and colour, and last good for two
or three days.

Artificial Spinning-baits. — The tackle-shops
are inundated with varieties oft hem. They will
all kill fish more or less successfully; but the
majority of them are inferior to the natural bait.
The large brilliant ones will kill in deep lakes,
the smaller ones in streams ; and I fancy they
are most useful when the water is beginning to
clear after a flood. The best artificial fish-baits
are those called c flexible,' made by Mr. Flinn, of
Broad Street, Worcester.

BOTTOM-FISHING. 1 77

CHAPTER VIII.

ON BOTTOM-FISHING — BODS, HOOKS, LINES, AND BAITS.

THE ENGLISH are, without doubt, the best bottom-
fishers in the empire, and the London anglers the
most accomplished of all. We can account for
this easily. English rivers are better stored than
those of any other division of the empire with the
various sorts of fish which seek their food rather
at the bottom than at the surface of the water. In
the neighbourhood of London such rivers abound
with their numerous angling clubs, subscription
and preserved waters; and the easily-pleased (only
perhaps with respect to his sports) character of
the Saxon, be he of the country or city, leads him
to indulge, with infinite patience and pleasure, in
all the slow minutiae of bottom-angling, when the
inconvenience of distance renders fly-fishing out
of the question. Even the fly-fisher from Ireland,
Scotland, or Wales, settled in London, stoops from
his high art, and, being a lover of nature in her
water-side charms, betakes himself to bottom-
fishing, and partakes of its amusement in com-
pany with the joyous, good-hearted, and really

N

178 THE SAXON CHARACTER.

philosophic cockney. In bottom-fishing, the perse-
vering character of the Saxon is developed. He pur-
sues it with that intensity of purpose that guides
him in his greater actions, and renders him capable
of performing the highest. He prepares himself for
a bottom-fishing campaign, as carefully as if he
were starting on a voyage of discovery. He
neglects nothing that may tend to his success.
The fox-hunter and fowler laugh at him, little
suspecting that the very bottom-fisher there,
watching his float so anxiously from his punt, may
be a first-rate horseman or shot ; and that he has
the wisdom of being satisfied with amusement at
hand, waiting for that which at the present time
s not. To be amused with harmless trifles in
proper season is the acme of practical happiness —

When we cannot make love to the lips that we love,
We can always make love to the lips that are near.

The fly-fisher will very readily become an ex-
pert bottom-fisher. He understands already the
use, in the most trying situations, of rod, line,
• winch, and hook. Pie has a quick eye and a quick
and light hand, and will easily apprehend all the
arcana of bait-fishing. All he requires to know
is the baits he must use, and a hint or two respect-
ing the best manner of using them. He knows
already the habits of the salmon family; he will
soon learn the monotonous ones of the carp tribe.

THE BOTTOM-FISHER'S ROD. 179

the different varieties of which form the principal
prey the bait- fisher pursues.

The bottom-fisher's rod must be strong and
light, not by any means so springy as that of the
fly-fisher. It must taper stiffly, not be topheavy,
and be just springy enough to strike a fish quickly
without the* delay too much elasticity in the top
pieces would cause. It must be supple, so that
pressure will equalise itself from top to butt.
Though its pieces be not so fine or so limber as
those of the fly-rod, it must taper with equal
precision. The lengths of bottom-fishing rods
differ very widely. Those that are used for bank-
fishing in wide rivers are sometimes twenty-four
feet long ; while those for angling from punts
are frequently as short as ten feet. They also
vary in strength according to the fish one angles .
for. The average length of a bank-rod should be
seventeen feet, that of a punt or boat-rod twelve.
With a good general rod, having several tops,
which you can change as occasion requires, you
may successfully bottom-angle for any species of
river fish, roach perhaps excepted, which require
a specific rod.

The bottom-lines for bait-fishing should be
made of good gut, as fine as is consistent with
strength, and it cannot be too fine for roach
fishing. Eoach-lines, at least ,that portion of them
next to the hook, are often made of single horse-

180 UTILITY OF THE WINCH.

hair ; but gut is better, and can be had fully as
fine. All foot-lines should be of the colour of
the water, sometimes of a sandy hue for angling
after a flood, but generally speaking a very light,
transparent green is the best. They should be
attached to good, prepared platted reel-lines, and
should be knotted and leaded as neatly as possible
to avoid catching in weeds or straws that may be
swimming down with the current. Grains of shot
of different sizes are commonly used for leading
lines. I prefer thin strips of sheet-lead beaten
to the thinness of writing-paper. You can wind
these thin, narrow bits of lead neatly round one
or two of the last links of your foot-line, just
above the knots or joinings, and it will be far less
clumsy and less likely to entangle than when
weighted with several shots. You can put on or
take off the slips of lead more promptly and easily
than shot, and you can carry them more conve-
niently. Always use a. winch in bottom-fishing.
It will prevent unequal strain upon your rod,
enable you to play a fish properly, and you can
shorten or lengthen your line with it according to
your judgment with facility. It will enable you,
besides, to angle with the shortest and finest foot-
line possible.

Hooks for bottom-fishing with worms should be
long in the shank and perfectly round in the bend,
with the barb and point not inclining inwards.

HOOKS FOR BOTTOM-FISHING. 181

On such hooks you can easily put your worms
without injuring them. If your hooks are sneck-
bent you will feel a difficulty in threading your
worm, and as you force it up, you will often find
the point of your bent hook penetrating through
its sides, spoiling the bait in more ways than one,
rendering it less lively, and liable to break even
by the motion of the water. Hooks for gentles,
greaves, paste, and so forth, may be short in the
shank, and sneck-bent, for they are more readily
covered by the bait, and will not let it slip off so
easily as the straightly rounded hooks. All bait-
hooks should be whipped on as delicately as pos-
sible, with silk the colour of the bait you use, and
waxed with almost colourless wax. Hooks should
be whipped on from towards the bend, and the
whipping should be terminated by a couple of
almost imperceptible slip-knots, varnished at the
end of the shank. If the beginning of your
whipping be rudely done, showing a commence-
ment glaringly thicker than the wire of your hook,
an obstruction will exist fatal to putting on your
bait easily, and without injuring it, if it be a worm.
In general hooks are whipped on too clumsily,
with too many coils of the silk, and with the silk
too fatly waxed. Bait-hooks have commonly a
few nicks made with a file towards the ends of the
shanks. The whipping need hardly extend beyond
them. The gut should be softened and thinned

182 COKK AND QUILL FLOATS.

by drawing between the front teeth. I mean the
small portion of it that is to be whipped on to the
shank of the hook.

Floats should be of moderate size. Heavy
floats may be used in barbel fishing, but are not
absolutely necessary, except when sinking and
roving with a live bait for pike. In general I
prefer cork floats to quill floats. The latter I
never use except for roach and carp fishing. A
neat, small-sized cork float is handy, sits well in
the water, and is sufficiently light to give you
instantaneous information of a bite. For my
own part, I frequently fish without a float at all,
with a lightly leaded line, and seldom miss
striking at a bite. The best bottom-fishers fish
for trout, grayling, perch, dace, and even for
roach, with a tripping bait without a float.
They are quick and sensitive enough to see and
feel a bite without the eaves-dropping of a float.
A float, however, is a safe appendage, and to be
surely relied upon. Notwithstanding, I advise
the learner to angle frequently without one, and
to depend on the sharpness of his eye and the
sensitiveness of his hand. If he do, he will
be always able to angle with a very light float —
an immense advantage — and to distinguish the
slightest fish-pull upon it. Never allow your
float to drag in the water. It should sit per-
pendicularly in it, and the line should rise straight

HOW TO STRIKE A FISH. 183

up from it to the point of the rod, which should
hang, whenever it is possible^ right over it. The
advice in the last sentence is important. Neglect
it, and you will seldom strike successfully. I
contimially see persons angling with their floats
slanting in the water, or lying loosely upon it,
with the line slack or coiled, and of course I see
them miss seven out of every ten fish they strike
at. Their baits are frequently nibbled off with-
out their being conscious of it at the time.

In bottom-fishing you must strike promptly
with a slight, sharp, wrist-jerk towards you, in-
clining your hand generally a little to the right.
If you miss your fish, and find that in striking
you have jerked your bait out of the water, con-
clude that you have struck with unnecessary force,
injuring and loosening thereby the bait on your
hook, and causing more pother in the water than
fish are used to. Moderate your dangerous
strength, and strike so as to lift the bait upwards
only a few inches. You need not be a bit afraid,
if your stroke is quick enough, that it is too
weak to hook your fish firmly. Striking strongly
is a great defect, a displeasing one, except to
fishing-tackle makers, who thereby get an in-
crease of business in making and repairing.
Kods are broken through it, lines and hooks
carried away, and fish lost and uselessly tormented
and rendered shy.

184 WHEN YOU SHOULD NOT PLAY A FISH,

Your rods and lines for bottom-fishing being
less delicate than those used in fly-fishing, you
may frequently after a very short struggle lift
your fish out of the water. In many instances,
particularly when you alight upon a shoal of
small-sized fish, you should give as little play as
possible, bringing your fish at once to the surface
of the water and out of it with all despatch.
Barbel and large chub should not be pulled at
fiercely at first, but be allowed to sink and run
moderately, under a pretty tight bearing-rein,
just sufficiently so to prevent them carrying their
noses whithersoever they fancy; and when you
feel their obstinacy becoming lax, present the
butt-end of your rod to them, and try their
strength under a shortened and taut line. If you
feel there is danger in bearing so hard, relax the
strain on your tackle, and indulge your captive
with a short swim or two. The weight of the
line he will have to drag will clog his movements,
and as soon as you begin to bear on him again
you will see his head turn towards you, and his
enfeebled fins, fast losing their propelling powers,
beat the water languidly. Bring his exhausted
head above water, and down into your landing
net with proper economy of time. In fishing with
a single hair-line, you must always cautiously play
your fish, very small though he may be. But
when with such a line you hook a monster fish,

AND WHEN YOU SHOULD. 185

giant barbel, or chub, or carp, or perch, you must
play him with all the careful address and ingenuity
of the fly-fisher. An event of this sort will fill
you with excitement, charged to the brim with
doubt, pleasant suspense, and fear ; and if by the
suaviter in modo you succeed, and you cannot
succeed on any other tack, you may commemorate
your success by means of a mammoth mummy
in a glass case with this glorious inscription :
' Barbel, weight 12 Ibs., caught with a roach
single hair-line, at Sunbury, July 185-, by

' Some sceptic may doubt the truth

of this immortalising label, but I should not,
knowing well what immense weights art can pull
up, and what immense strength it can pull down.
In fishing for perch your tackle should be strong,
for he is a bold biter, and not to be scared away
by a stout gut-line ; hence playing him will not
be very necessary. You should lift him on land
promptly, and not allow him to dart about under
water like a mad thing, else he will give the word
to his mates, and cause them to disperse as di-
versely and as rapidly as the seizure of one young-
pickpocket by the police causes the dispersion of
the surrounding shoal.

You must exactly plumb the depth of the water,
in order that you may know on what part of your
line you are to fix the float. For barbel, tench,
and gudgeons, you must fish close to the bottom

186 BOTTOM-FISHING BAITS.

and for the generality of other fish of the carp
tribe, from three to six inches from it. When
the plummet sinks the float so that the upper tip
is even with the surface of the water, you have
the exact depth. Withdraw your plummet, and
move the float downwards on your line, as ma.ny
inches as you wish your bait should be from the
bottom of the water. Fasten your float properly
by the usual means, and see that it stands in the
water clear of any obstruction to its yielding to
the slightest nibble. Green, yellow, or brown is
the best colour for a float.

BOTTOM-FISHING BAIT*;. — Worms are the most
general baits, and, except at certain seasons, the
best. Scarcely a river fish will refuse them.
They are decidedly the best baits in spring, and
at all times when" the waters are clearing after a
fall of rain. I will classify them for the purposes
of angling.

The dew or lob-worm is the largest used by
anglers, and the best bottom-bait for large river
fish. Salmon, trout, barbel, chub, tench, perch,
and eels take it freely. The middle-sized are the
best ; but two of the smaller-sized placed on the
hook at the same time form a most attractive bait.
Dew-worms come out in pairs by thousands
towards night, in fields and meadows, after a fall
of rain or heavy dew, and disappear into their
holes after sunrise, when the dew is dried up by

THE DEW OR LOB-WORM. 187

the coming heat of day. The early bird catches
the worm, and so does the early angler. By night
they are sought after by the light of a lantern.
They may be dug out of moist mould, and out of
the moist bottoms of ditches. In dry weather
their retreat is deep, and you must dig deeply for
them. If you place a quantity of wet straw oil
the surface of the ground, they will come out in a
day or two. It is said that water in which wal-
nuts, or their green shells, have been steeped,
poured upon the ground, will immediately bring
the worms to the surface. Digging for them, or
getting them by night by means of a lantern, or
early in the morning by the light of one's own
eyes, is the best and most natural way. With
respect to the preservation of dew-worms, Captain
Williamson truly says, ' It is much the same as
that of other worms, namely, to be kept in moist
moss, changed every three or four days, and set
by in unglazed earthen pots, in a cool place during
hot weather. That kind of moss is best which is
found on commons, and which is crisp, and of a
greenish-white colour. It cannot be too soft and
elastic, but should be carefully searched whilst
washing before it is put to the worms, so that all
thorns and rough substances may be removed, else
the worms will not thrive so well. Those who can
supply a little cream every day, to be mixed in or
thrown upon the surface of the moss-pans, will

188 PRESERVING WORMS.

obtain a decided superiority in the condition of
their baits, which will purge from all impurity,
and become beautifully bright and pellucid. The
pan should be large, or the worms will not live,
whereas, when they have good room, clean, moist
moss, and delicate handling, they will go on from
year to year.' Not so long, in my opinion, with-
out a layer of nice moist earth at the bottom of
the pan or wooden tub. The worms should be
frequently examined, and the weak and sickly ones
extracted and thrown away.

Mr. Elaine says : — ' To preserve worms for use,
shred some hard fat, without a particle of salt in
it ; suet is the best, and mutton kidney suet best
of all. Having chopped it into small pieces, and
thrown it into a saucepan containing about a
quart of water, let it boil slowly, until the suet
is dissolved ; and then having ready some well-
washed hempen sacking or wrapper, that has not
enveloped anything noxious, dip it into the liquor.
When well soaked in it, and having become cold,
then mix some fresh mould with the worms, and
put the whole into a deep earthen vessel, or tub :
the latter is preferable. Into this pour in a good
stock of lob or marsh-worms, or any sort of red
earth-worms, and over the top tie a linen cloth
that will admit air, and yet prevent their escaping.
Place them in a cool situation, and the worms
will feed and cleanse themselves, and keep lively

THE BLUE-HEAD AND BRANDLING. 189

and fit for use for many months. We would
observe, however, that if the angler have different
species of worms, let him keep them in separate
vessels, so that at any time he may select the sort
and quantity necessary, to be placed in moss
preparatory to his using them.'

The blue-head is a worm that I have found
scarce in England. It is common in Ireland, and,
in my opinion, is the best of all worms for the
salmon tribe, and would be taken freely by the
larger species of the carp tribe. It is sometimes
four inches long, but frequently found much
shorter. The head is of a shining blue ; the rest
of the body, but particularly the under part, is
of a light cream colour, transparent almost to the
tail. It is without knobs, and the skin on the
belly side feels sharply rough to the fingers. It
readily scours in moss, becomes tough, lively, and
long-lived. It is one of the most lasting worms
in the water I know of. When the water is dis-
coloured by a flood, it is the best of all trout
baits, and should be used on a tripping line with-
out a float. Spun in clear water by means of a
swivel or two on the foot-line, few fish will pass
it by. It is to be found in rich garden mould,
about the roots of esculent plants.

Brandlings are capital worms, perhaps the
best of all for fish under a pound weight. They
require very little scouring, and are, even without

190 BLOOD AND TAG-TAIL WORMS.

it, tough and lively. They do not run large, and
I advise two at a time on the hook for catching
good-sized fish.

Blood or Red Worms. — These worms run very
small, and are to be found in dung heaps of long-
standing where the dung and soil meet. Those
found in tan heaps are the best, because they are
the toughest and liveliest and require least scour-
ing. They are also found in the sides of ditches,
and in most light and moist soils. They are a
delicate worm, and require light handling. Being
small, the hook must be small-sized and very
light in the wire. They are a good bait for carp
and small perch, and the best of all baits for
gudgeons.

Marsh- Worms are very well known in London,
and far too highly prized. They cannot be well
preserved, require a deal of cleansing, and are,
after all, a brittle, and, after a short time in the
water, a lifeless bait. In truth, they are only fit
for ground-bait, and should never be used on the
hook when any of the foregoing worms can be
procured.

The tag-tail, called by some the turnip-worm,
is a small-sized one, red about the head, and
yellow towards the tail. Generally speaking, it is
not a good worm. It answers best in spring, and
when the water is a little discoloured by rain. It
is easily found about turnips, potatoes, cabbages,

PUTTING WORMS ON HOOKS. 191

and in any strong, clayey, cultivated soil. It may
be used as soon as found, and that is its chief
recommendation.

There are many other sorts of worms recom-
mended by angling authorities ; but I recommend
none of them except as &pis-aller. Some anglers
use white slugs, and the black ones so cut as to
show their white insides, and say they are good
baits for barbel, chub, and eels. Never use them
when you can get worms.

Having now described the best worms for
angling, I must tell how they are best put upon
the hook. Make the points of your fore-fingers
and thumbs rough, by dipping them in sand, bran,
or dry earth, and you will obtain a light and firm
hold of the worm, which will prevent it from
slipping through your fingers as you bait your
hook. With moist or slippery fingers you can
never bait your hook properly, and in the attempt
you lose much time a»d injure the bait.

In baiting with a single worm, insert the point
of your hook just beneath the flat part of the
head, and work the worm lightly up the shank of
the hook and beyond it up your line, until not
more than a quarter of an inch of the tail, or at
most half an inch, when the worm and hook are
large, projects or hangs beyond the point of the
hook. When you use well-scoured and tough
worms, if they are large lob or blue-heads, you

192 PUTTING WORMS ON HOOKS.

may leave a fourth part of the worm beyond the
point of the hook, as you will thus give it more
length to wriggle and appear lively in the water.
The tails of small worms should scarcely project
beyond the point of your hook. In putting on
the worm, hold the hook, its point downwards,
between the uplifted ends of your left fore-finger
and thumb, and take the worm by the back of
the neck, as it were, with the same fingers of the
right hand ; and when you have got the head of
the bait up the shank beyond the bend of the
hook, you may draw it gently further with the
left fingers, pushing the worm on at the same
time with the right-hand fingers. Take care not
to perforate, after the first perforation, the body
of the worm with the point or barb of the hook.
Earely try to get the worm on by, so to speak,
stitches. Endeavour as much as you can to make
the tail of the worm fall inside the barb of the
hook, and not on the outside of the point. If it
hang on the outside, the hook will soon penetrate
the belly part of it, and the point being exposed,
the fish will either refuse the bait altogether, or
nibble off the part that is hanging partly dis-
severed and clear of the hook. In fishing for
carp, dace, and gudgeons, use a small showy, lively
worm, drawn up on the hook, the tail almost to
the very point.

When worms are small, say of the average size

PUTTING TWO WORMS ON -THE HOOK. 193

of brandlings, I prefer two on the hook at the
same time, a larger and a smaller one. I put on
the larger one first ; and when I have got it half
on my hook, I pass the point and barb through
it, and draw it delicately up the shank on to my
gut or hair. I then take the lesser worm, one
just of such size that when I bring its head just
above the end of the shank of the hook, the tail
may hang but very little, more or less according
to size, beyond the hook's point. I next draw
down the upper worm until the perforated part
of it comes in contact with the lower worm, and I
allow the tails of both to meet, and, if possible,
to entwine withinside the bend of the hook.
Worms put on well in this way are most attrac-
tive baits, and, believe me, the largest trout will
greedily take two large blue-heads well scoured,
and adjusted on the hook in the way just described.
Let such a bait roll along the stream about a foot
or so from the bottom, and, provided salmon or
trout be there, you will not unfrequently find it
stopped by one or other of them.

Some authorities put on the double worm
differently. The larger or upper worm they put
on as I advise, but the smaller or lower worm in
another way, viz., with its head towards the point
of the hook, and its tail upwards to meet that of
the larger worm.

In order strongly to impress the young angler

194 AIR BUBBLES A BAD OMEN.

with the necessity of baiting his hook carefully,
Captain Williamson observes : ' I have frequently
remarked the effects of doubt and of apprehension
in fishes of various descriptions, when any part
of my hook has been bare. They have come to
it in a balancing manner, and either shied off or
retreated, tail foremost, or they appeared to be
smelling to the bait, and throwing up bubbles of
air to the surface. This may be a thousand times
witnessed in clear waters, where all their motions
are perceptible. I have in general found it to be
a very bad omen. Fishes rarely discharge air in
this manner, except when in fear or in difficulty,
or when in the humour not to bite. If the worm
is properly threaded on the hook, so as completely
to envelope it, and to have the tail about an inch
pendant, lapping over into the bend, few hungry
fish will reject it. In this mode of putting on the
bait, less opportunity is given for tugging at any
part, while it is greatly in favour of hooking any
fish that may bite fairly. As a single worm is
the more certain bait, so is a double bait, con-
sisting of two worms, more alluring, especially to
all the ravenous tribe ; therefore, for such it is
particularly eligible. It is applied thus : put the
hook into the mouth of the largest of two worms,
and thread it for about a third its length ; then
bring out the point of the hook, and slide the
worm up, so as to be kept above the bend, and

WORMS UNIVERSAL BAITS. 195

with its tail hanging down in a line with the
shank. Then thread the smaller worm, which
should be particularly clear and high coloured,
until its head comes up the shank a little above
the turn of the bend, and is overlapped by the
tail of the first worm, so that no part of the hook
can be seen. Be sure to bring the second worm
well on, and before you throw in (which should
always be done as gently as possible, letting your
line down quietly into the water up to the float)
turn its tail in, so as to hang down between the
point and the shank.'

I have been minute in pointing out the best
angling worms, and how they are to be put upon
hooks, for worms of some kind or other are taken
by fish in every clime, in fresh water and in salt
water, and they afford the angler a never-failing
resource. He who knows how to angle with
them has a sporting relaxation ever at hand, and
he who can bait a hook with a worm for a gudgeon
can bait one with other baits, be they pieces of
fish, of meat, small animals, or any other likely
lure, for herrings, mackerel, whiting, cod, or
monster shark. By river or sea-side he can amuse
himself, and he can break in upon the monotony
of an ocean voyage, by angling from the ship's
stern for those fish that swim in its wake.

On days when the trout will refuse the artificial
fly, they will act differently towards the worm ;

o 2

196 BAITING WITH GENTLES.

but you must angle for that fish with careful
neatness, with a fine gut-line, delicately leaded
and without the incumbrance of a float. A
lively worm dropped in rapids, eddies, mill-tails,
worked artistically with the water, and ever and
anon spinning it against it by means of a swivel-
trace, will rarely fail in affording diversion.
After nightfall in summer, worms, trolled upon
the surface of the water, will be taken by large
trout.

Gentles or maggots come next after worms as
good bottom-baits. They suit the summer and
autumn months best. They are bad baits for
gudgeon, perch, pike, eels, and, indeed, for most
kinds of fish that prey upon other fish. I have
observed that in some parts of the Thames they
are not so good a bait as worms, and that in other
parts of that river they are better. Wherever
the puntmen ground-bait constantly with worms,
there the worm will prove the best bait. On the
contrary, where gentles are the constant ground-
bait used, gentles are the best angling bait. Fish
become more or less habituated to either of these
bait^, the more or less frequently they find them
in the water. For instance, the puntmen at Sun-
bury on Thames usually throw in worms as their
ground-bait for barbel, and in consequence that
fish takes the worm there more freely than it
does the gentle. At Teddington the fishermen

BAITING WITH GENTLES. 197

ground- bait with gentles, and therefore angle
most successfully with them. In fishing for large
barbel with gentles, you should put as many on
your hook at a time as you possibly can. Half a
dozen would not be too many. For small fish
two gentles at once on the hook are sufficient.
Mr. Elaine says : ' Unless the hook be very small,
two, or even three, gentles are requisite on it at
one time. With three insert the point of the
hook into one gentle close to the head, or more
bulbous end, and bring it out near the tail : now,
take a thin green gentle, and pass the point
directly across the body, and then put on the
third exactly as the first, except that, having just
shown the point of the hook through the skin of
the gentle, retraet it again. For the latter hint
we are indebted to Mr. S alter, and a very good
one it is ; for, as he justly observes, the skin of
the gentle being somewhat tough (especially in
cold weather), by piercing the skin in the first
instance an opening is made, by which the finest
stroke (when a bite does occur) will enter the
hook sufficiently into the fish to secure it, and
you do not risk breaking your line or the top of
your rod by striking too hard. One gentle on a
No. 10 or 11 hook will often succeed when more
are refused, and the fish shy.'

In angling with two gentles, insert the point of
the hook by the head of one, and pass it out near

198 BAITING WITH TWO GENTLES.

the tail. Insert the point of the hook near the
tail of the second gentle, and push it up the hook
to meet the tail of the other. The hook should
be inserted as close inside the skins of the gentles
as possible. The point of the hook is to meet the
skin of the second gentle close inside its head.
Gentle hooks should be made of very fine wire,
sharply pointed and sneck-bent.

Towards the middle of the day, when fish are
rising at insects on the surface of the water, a
gentle placed on the point and bend of a hook on
which a red-winged artificial fly is dressed, will be
found a killing bait, especially for chub, dace, and
roach. The straw-bait used in the same way will
kill trout and grayling well. Mr. Elaine observes :
( The angler will sometimes find, while he is
roach and dace fishing, that as the day advances
towards its meridian, the roach and dace he may
have been hitherto taking with success will gra-
dually leave off biting, and from the bottom will
show; themselves above, the dace at mid-water,
and the roach but a little below the surface. This
circumstance will afford him an amusing oppor-
tunity of varying his practice by mounting on a
gentle-hook, No. 8 or 9, a pair of wings. A very
slight ginger hackle -feather is the best for the
purpose. After it is on, cover the remainder of
the hook with a tough, well-scoured gentle.
Whip with this, but not violently, and the dace

ARTIFICIAL GENTLES. 199

will rise eagerly at it. It is more than probable
that the roach will take it best when it is sunk
some inches, or even a foot or more, below the
surface.'

The above bait can be well imitated artificially.
Tie on delicately a pair of wings from the land-
rail's reddest feather, and imitate the gentle by a
body made of a little strip of very fine bright
yellow wash leather, or floss silk of the same
colour, with gold-beater's skin lapped over it.
This bait will last a,s long as any artificial fly, and
may be cast upon the water in the same way,
using it as a stretcher in conjunction with two
drop flies. If dressed large it will kill large chub,
and towards evening in the summer season may
tempt large Thames trout.

Gentles are a summer and autumn bait. The
bottom-line in fishing with them should be fine,
and they should be handled delicately. On fine
mild winter-month days they are a good bait for
roach and grayling.

Grentles in London can be cheaply procured at
the fishing-tackle shops, elsewhere, and by other
means. You can even produce them for yourself.
4 Hang,' says Captain Williamson, 6 a piece of ox-
liver on a hook in a shady place, cut it deeply
across and across in various places on both sides ;
then cover it over lightly with small boughs,
cabbage leaves, or anything that will shelter the

200 PRESERVING GENTLES.

flies, whilst they visit it to feed and to lay their
eggs. In a few days innumerable fly-blows will
be seen among the scarifications, when the liver
should be taken down, and laid in an earthen pan,
about half-filled with sand and bran in equal
quantities, somewhat moistened. As the gentles
acquire strength, they will quit the liver and bury
themselves in the sand, from which they may be
taken as occasion requires, when they will have
scoured themselves, and be fit to handle. The
same liver will produce several stocks, or suc-
cessions of gentles, if properly managed. The
largest will proceed from the blue-bottle and gad-
flies, which attack livers with great eagerness.' A
sheep's head, an old fowl, and the useless bodies
of several small animals kept in a moist, sultry
place, will soon produce gentles. Gentles are
scoured and rendered tough by keeping them for
three or four days in a mixture of sand, bran, and
meal.

When you have procured gentles, you must
endeavour to prevent them from turning or
changing into the chrysalis state. You will do so
best by keeping them in a cool place, in a roomy
vessel furnished with wet sand. Exposure to the
sun's heat soon spoils them.

It is a common and well-founded opinion that
barbel and chub prefer green gentles. Roach,
dace, and bream like ripe, well-scoured gentles

PRESERVING GENTLES FOR WINTER. 201

best. Mr. Daniel, in his e Eural Sports,' cautions
anglers not to throw away gentles that are on
the turn from one state to another. Dace and
roach, he says, often prefer a turned and a fresh
gentle put on the hook together. Gentles used
in grayling fishing should be large, fresh, and well
scoured.

Preserving gentles for the winter months. — On
this subject Mr. Elaine writes with his usual sound
sense, remarking that c in the neighbourhood of
still and deep rivers, the angler's winter roach
fishing chiefly depends on gentles ; and in the
bends and deeps of the more rapid rivers which
afford grayling, he is equally indebted to them
for his principal sport and his largest fish. In
September or October, the later the better, so that
the parent fly is yet abroad, which will much
depend on the season (we have seen the flesh-fly
active in the early part of November), allow either
the carcass of a fowl or rabbit, a sheep's head or
a portion of liver, to be well blown. Procure a
butter tub, or, in preference, a stout long elm box
(our own was one foot wide, one foot and a half
deep, and three feet long) ; into some such vessel
put sifted mould moistened and mixed with dried
and pulverised cow-dung. With this mixture
half-fill the box, and press it down very lightly.
Put the carcass and the blown gentles together
into it, strewing them over with some of the same

202 CAKKION GENTLES.

compost: as the mass sinks, fill it up with the
same, and press it at last moderately, as the
gentles will sink to the bottom. This box may
be then placed in any out-door cool situation, and
the mould at times be slightly moistened ; or it
may be buried a foot or two in the earth, if con-
venient, and will then require no moistening. The
advantages we derived from a long box were, that
we could turn up the earth in it at one end to
procure the gentles we wanted, without admitting
air or disturbing the whole mass.'

The gentles got at the knackers' are generally
called carrion gentles, and their proper use is for
ground-bait. They are nasty things to handle,
and are never so good for hook-baits as the gen-
tles produced by putrefying liver. When used for
ground-bait, they attract fish to the locality, but
fish easily distinguish the nice, clear, well-scoured
gentle on your hook from them, and will take it
in preference. They are a great nuisance to carry,
as they will eat their way through the stoutest
bags, and crawl about in every direction.

The caddis, or straw-bait. — I have a better
opinion of this bait than the generality of anglers
have. I have killed a great many trout with it,
particularly by placing it on the hook in con-
junction with an artificial fly. Though the gentle
may be a better bait in large rivers for coarse
fish of the carp tribe, it is not so good a bait in

THE CADDIS OR STRAW-BAIT. 203

the gentle streams and pools of trout and grayling
rivers as the cad or straw-bait. These baits are
the larvae of several of the angler's best flies.
Captain Williamson says : ' In applying this bait,
the point of the hook should enter close under the
head, and be brought out at its other end, if two
are used. When a very small hook is used, one
caddis may answer, and then the hook must not
be brought out at its end, but the point must rest
just inside the end of the bait. In general two
will be found best ; it being indispensably neces-
sary to cover every part of the hook. In the latter
case the first caddis should be carried round, so
as to conceal all the shank, while the other fills
the bend and conceals the point. Caddies are
in season only during the summer months ; they
generally make their first appearance in May,
and by the end of June are most numerous.' Mr,
Elaine, after examining several authorities re-
specting the merits or demerits of this bait, says :
6 We may sum up these contradictory accounts,
by adding the result of our own experience, which
is, that in some small rivers with little run they
will kill every kind of worm -taking fish at bottom.
In large, rapid streams, particularly such as run
over limestone, they are but indifferent substitutes
for gentles or worms.'

An artificial caddis, very attractive on warm
windy days, may be very easily made. Wings,

204 CATERPILLARS,

full, and slanting a little over the body, to be
made of any brown-red feather ; body, long and
tapering, of yellow floss silk, covered with gold-
beater's skin, and ribbed with brown silk. Head
a lap or two of bronze peacock harl.

Caterpillars as baits are too highly praised.
Fish, it is true, will take them, but they are more
trouble than they are worth. If you do not ob-
serve the greatest caution in putting them on your
hook, you will spoil them, either by puncturing
them too deeply, or by pressing them too hard.
Either of these accidents will cause their internal
matter to exude, and so spoil them. The best
way of baiting with the caterpillar is that recom-
mended by Mr. Elaine, who says : 6 In putting
caterpillars on the hook some nicety is required.
A bristled hook (a hook with a bit of hog's bristle
projecting upwards from the top of the shank, to
prevent the bait from slipping down) also is ne-
cessary, of No. 5, 6, or 7 size, according to cir-
cumstances, on which the caterpillar should be
threaded, passing it up from the shoulders, leaving
half an inch of the tail pendant : pass, or thread
another contrariwise, taking care to have the
barb completely covered. Inspect the bait very
frequently, and change it often. We have also
daped successfully with a pair of brown wings on
a hook No. 5, and with one caterpillar passed up
the hook to meet the wings, where a retaining

COMMON BREAD PASTE. 205

I

bristle dressed on the hook with them should be
placed.' Artificial palmers, well dressed, are much
more handy, and very often kill better than the
real caterpillar. The green caterpillar, or cab-
bage-grub, is a good bait for grayling.

Pastes have divided the opinions of the angling
world, very uselessly in my opinion. Perfumed
and variously coloured pastes, as a general rule,
should be rejected by the wise angler. The
simpler the paste the better : — sometimes made
of nothing more than moistened bread-crumb,
worked between clean fingers, coloured sometimes
with a little vermilion, and for sharp running
streams having a little raw cotton worked up
with it to prevent its washing off the hook. This
paste, varied as above, is the best general one,
and when fish will not take it, wish them a good
morning, or try the gentle or worm. In order
that the learner may not be deprived of any
chance resource, I will give him a list of several
sorts of pastes.

Common bread paste is made either of new or
stale bread, according to circumstances. New
bread paste is made by intimately kneadiog to-
gether in the hands for a few minutes three-
fourths of new with one-fourth of stale bread,
without dipping in water. This working will
bring it into a very glutinous adhesive paste.
It is particularly fitted, therefore, for angling in

206 STALE BREAD PASTE.

strong eddies and powerful streams ; but it does
not apply so well to the finer fishings of roach
and dace in moderate streams and still deeps,
since it will not separate so readily from the hook
in striking as the paste made from stale bread ;
and this peculiar property of separating, to allow
the easiest egress for the point of the hook when
the angler strikes at a fish, the experienced roach-
fisher considers to be essential. In chub-fishing,
on the contrary, its adhesive property is valuable,
as a larger piece will stick to a larger hook with-
out being washed off, as the brittle stale bread
paste would be. It is also more useful than the
latter paste for taking dace in the Thames, as well
as in the streamy parts of all other dace rivers.
This paste is convenient from the quickness with
which it is made at home, or by the river side.

Stale bread paste is made of bread one day, or
at most only two days, old. In the latter case
the bread should be taken from the centre of the
loaf. First dip it momentarily in clean water,
and instantly squeeze it as dry as possible ; then,
placing it in the palm of one hand, work it with
the knuckles and tops of the fingers of the other
for about twenty minutes, when it will have ar-
rived at the fitting consistence. It is well to ob-
serve that, as all bread pastes have a tendency
to become quickly sour, particularly if wetted, it
is advisable, should the angler have far to travel,

COLOURED AND SWEET PASTES. 207

that he carry the bread with him and make the
paste by the river side. This paste is the best
winter bait for roach, and the best of pastes at
all times for that fish, since you can fix it on the
smallest-sized hook, and its very slight tenacity
scarcely offers any obstruction to the point of the
hook penetrating through it to the fish's mouth.

A good coloured paste in imitation of salmon
roe. — Knead flour and water well together, then
wash both in a pailful of cold water, working them
well in a mass without dividing it, until the fine
parts of the flour are completely washed away :
this may be known by its ceasing to whiten the
water. What remains will be nearly gluten, and
very viscous. Take a little vermilion in fine
powder (the size of a large pea will colour a tea-
cupful of the gluten), and rub the whole well
together on a slab with a muller or flat knife.
This paste may be preserved many weeks if kept
immersed in cold water. If left exposed to the
air, it dries rapidly ; when taken out for use, it
should be put into a wet bag.

Sweet paste is made by working the crumb of
bread with honey to a proper consistence. This
is certainly a good paste ; but I doubt very much
that it is so on account of its sweetness. I have
heard hundreds of anglers talk of the gusto with
which fish have swallowed this paste, yet I have
my doubts, as I do not think highly of the delicacy

208 ADHESIVE PASTE.

of piscine palates. The paste is very easily made,
and should therefore be tried, especially as it is
spoken favourably of by Elaine and Salter, who
say, ' that it is a most killing bait for carp during
the months of July and August, and indeed as
long afterwards as the fishing season lasts. As
regards carp, this bait has a very peculiar claim on
those anglers who cannot be at their posts early
and late, where the carp-fisher ought to be in most
cases. This paste obviates in some measure that
necessity, as it is one of the few baits which carp
will take in favourable weather even at mid-day.
Chub may be taken by it sometimes very well,
and roach will seldom refuse it.'

In angling with this paste ground-bait with the
meal ground-bait, which is the best of all in deep
waters for carp, chub, roach, and dace. To make
this ground-bait, cut a few thick slices of bread,
and put them in a pan without the crust. Satu-
rate well with water, and then squeeze the fluid
out. Knead with equal quantities of fine bran
and oatmeal, and work into tough balls. Drop
one of these in from time to time near your
float, and it will attract the above fish if any
thing will.

Adhesive paste may be made by boiling slowly
for a considerable time the shavings and parings
of white glove leather. In the glutinous fluid so
produced, knead as much stale bread crumb as is

SALMON-ROE PASTE. 209

required to make a given quantity of tenacious
paste. This composition will suit rapid waters.

Barbel paste, of a very tempting kind, may be
made by soaking bread in the liquor from which
greaves have been taken after macerating therein.
The introduction of wool into the mass will be
found useful, to prevent the current washing the
paste away. By putting a small morsel of white
greaves on the point of the hook, you will prevent
its exposure whilst angling with this paste.

Salmon roe preserved, and salmon-roe paste. —
Both these baits have a terrible reputation, so
bad, indeed, as to give him who uses them a
poaching character, Salmon roe is a natural bait
for trout and other fish that frequent the waters
salmon breed in. Whilst the female salmon is
depositing the ova, many are swept away by the
current, and become the natural prey of other
fish, inhabitants of the stream.

It is not easy to preserve salmon roe so as to
keep it in a proper state of hardness or softness.
Generally, with all our pains, it turns out too soft ;
rarely it becomes, except by gross blundering,
too hard. When too soft, it melts away when
used, and is then only fit to mix with bread crumb
to be made into paste. When too hard, some
good still remains, for it can be softened by im-
mersion in water, and, at any rate, will answer for
ground-bait.

p

210 PRESERVING SALMON ROE.

Preserving salmon roe. — It should be taken
from the female salmon a few days before she
spawns, and the process of preservation should
commence immediately. As soon as the roe is
taken from the fish, it must be put into a capa-
cious earthen pan, and cold water poured upon it.
After a few minutes' immersion, pour off the cold
water, and pour in tepid. Now wash the ova, and
separate them delicately with your fingers, break-
ing none if you can help it. Remove from them
all skin. Pour off the water, and add some more
clean and warm. Continue to do so until the roe
becomes quite clean, and -freed from all film. The
water must not be too hot — a little more than
milk-warm. The last washing must be with cold
water, which being drained off, place the roe in a
hair sieve until it be dry. To every pound of
completely cleansed roe, put two ounces of ordinary
salt, mixing well with the fingers, so that each
ovum be salted. Drain off the brine afterwards
by placing the roe in a sieve or colander for a few
hours. Then spread it on a shallow dish, set ob-
liquely at a moderate distance from the fire, and
keep stirring with the handle of a wooden ladle,
so that each pea of the roe may dry separately,
and that there be no adhesion between any. When
dry, set it to cool, and, when quite cold, pot it.
Press it gently down in pots, over which tie a
piece of linen or bladder, on to which you have
melted a layer of lard.

CHEESE PASTE — GROUND-BAITS. 211

In baiting with salmon roe, the hook should be
covered with it, and as many grains put in the
bend as possible. The most perfect grains should
cover the barb and point of the hook. Some
persons with a fine needle thread necklace-fashion
some fine pink silk thread with the grains of roe,
and then wind a sufficient number neatly about
the bend and shank of the hook, shielding the
point with one of them.

When your preserved salmon roe is too soft to
thread it in single grains on the hook, mix a little
adhesive bread paste with it, and use it as salmon-
roe paste.

Cheese paste is made with either new or old
cheese, by mixing stale bread with new cheese,
and new bread with old cheese. The substances
must be kneaded together to adhesiveness. New
bread and old cheese for chub ; the other mixture
for roach. They are both good autumn and winter
baits.

When pastes are used, the hooks should be
short in the shanks, of fine wire and sneck-bent.
They should be whipped on with silk the colour
of the paste, very delicately waxed with trans-
parent white wax.

Ground-baits. — These are essential to extensive

success, and should be used abundantly, thrown in

for days and nights previously at the spots wherein

you intend to angle. They should be thrown in,

p 2

212 HOW TO GROUND-BAIT.

at all events, the night before you begin to fish.
They should be of the same sort as the baits you
are about to use, but of inferior quality. The
more carefully and the longer you ground-bait
any locality, the greater number of fish you will
find there. Naturally, they will congregate to
those places at which they find most food.

In rapid streams your ground-bait should be
heavy and adhesive, mixed with clay, and having
sometimes a large round pebble within the mass.
In rivers that are constantly ground-baited the
very noise or splash, caused in the water by the
fall of the ground-bait cast^ in, attracts fish to
the spot. They are used to it, and know the con-
sequence. Large worms mixed with balls of clay
attract barbel, chub, perch, and trout. Bran,
pollard, meal, malt, grains, attract roach, dace,
chub, and bream. Greaves and pieces of cheese
attract barbel and chub. Eaking with an iron
rake the bottom of the stream, or mudding it by
going into the water and stirring up the bottom
with your strong-soled shoes or boots, will bring
fish into the wake of the discoloured water, and
they will eagerly take worms dropped in before
them. The best ground-baits are the following.
I have mentioned the meal ground-bait already,
and it is the best of all when angling with bread
pastes.

Bran and clay ground-bait is very simple, and

THE BEST GROUND-BAITS. 213

much used for roach and dace. It is made of a
mixture of adhesive clay and bran well worked
together, and pieces about the size of a small egg
are thrown in where you fish. If you are angling
in a current, throw in the balls above you, so that
their particles may be washed down to the spot
where your hook and bait are.

A good general ground-bait for such rivers as
the Thames, Trent, &c., in which there are many
kinds of fish. — Mix clay, bran, and meal together,
into a firm adhesive mass, which divide into round
pieces about the size of cricket balls. In the
middle of them place as many worms and gentles
as you can; as they creep out they are taken
by the fish with impunity, which will encourage
them to take your bait, whether it be a gentle or
a worm. Nearly all sorts of river fish, the coarser
kinds especially, are attracted by this ground-
bait, which is especially good in deeps where
heavy fish abound.

Other ground-baits are made of soaked greaves
and clay, good, when thrown in largely, for barbel,
and angling at the same time with prepared
greaves ; others for still water, such as ponds, are
made of mixtures of sand, clay, and scalded barley
or wheat; others are made of chopped worms,
gentles, pieces of greaves, and cheese ; and others
of a mixture of wet sand and carrion gentles.
Experience will soon teach the angler the proper

214 PREPARED GREAVES.

use of ground -baits. One thing lie must cautiously
prevent, viz., the washing away of his ground-
bait by the strength of the current to a distance
too far from him to fish at. His hook-bait must
always drop in close by the spot on which his
ground-bait rests.

In winter many anglers fish with prepared
greaves, bullock's brains and portions of the spinal
chord. A salmon was caught in the Trent with
bullock's pith in the winter of 1846-7. Greaves
are prepared by soaking pieces in water until they
become sufficiently soft, clean, and white. If
wrapped in leaves and kept cool, the preparation
will hold good for a week or longer.

I have now in one chapter, a rather long one
certainly, stated all that is necessary to enable the
learner to bottom fish. I might have thrown out
many other suggestions, amusing and speculative,
rather than positively instructive ; but I have re-
frained, because I know the reader will by-and-
by sufficiently speculate for himself, and, J hope,
amusingly and successfully. I have laid down
the right principles for him to build on, and if he
keep them in view in all his angling-castle-build-
ing, his visions may be pleasantly realised, even
on a sandy foundation.

A TRUTH OR TWO TOUCHING FISHING-RODS. — A

trout single-hand fly-rod should vary from eleven
to fourteen feet ; but the average and best general

FISHING HODS. 215

length is 12 feet 4 inches. That is the length I
prefer. A rod fourteen feet long is only necessary
in wide rivers where large fish are to be met with.
There are not many men who can with one arm
wield it conveniently. It is an implement for the
strong in the arm alone.

The materials of which fly-rods should be made
are, ash for butt, hickory for middle pieces, bamboo
cane for top. The butts of small fly-rods for lads
and ladies may be made of willow. It is a nice
light wood, and sufficiently elastic for toy-rods.
Lancewood I like not for fly-rods. The ash,
hickory, and bamboo used should be perfectly
seasoned and completely void of blemish or flaw.
Let your fly-rod be in four pieces ; a greater num-
ber are injurious ; a lesser inconvenient. Balance
in a fly-rod is the main point.

Salmon fly-rods should vary from sixteen to
eighteen feet in length — those of sixteen feet for
grilse, sea trout, and so forth ; those of eighteen
for salmon of any size. A salmon rod 17 feet 4
inches is of the preferable average length. It
should be made of the same materials as the trout
fly-rod, and should also consist of four pieces.
The top-joint should have about two feet of lance-
wood next the small piece ; the remainder to the
point should be of bamboo cane. The splices of
top-joints cannot be glued and whipped too
firmly.

216 SALMON RODS.

I suggest the following improvement in salmon
rods. There should be no spare top for trolling or
spinning, but merely a spare fly-top, which should
be of bamboo cane rent longitudinally into three
wedge-shaped pieces, then glued together, reduced
to the proper tapering thickness, and strongly
ringed and whipped. This spare top should be
reserved for heavy work in rivers, in and over
which there are rocks and trees, rendering the
playing of a fish unusually difficult, and tackle of
more than ordinary strength necessary. I have
changed my opinion with respect to rods made
entirely of rent cane or of any other wood rent.
Their defects willalways more than counterbalance
their merits.

Trolling and spinning rods should be about
twelve feet long. Those made of mottled East
India cane are the handsomest and best I have
seen. The above cane is sometimes scarce. The
best substitutes are ash for butt, hickory for
middle pieces, and bamboo cane for top — the
latter stout and short.

RANK OF FISH IN THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. 217

CHAPTEK IX.

ON PISCATOKIAL PHYSIOLOGY.

IN ORDER to clear up, for angling purposes, how
far fish see, hear, smell, taste, and generally feel,
I solicited one of my best friends, Erasmus Wilson,
F.R.S., a well-known and accomplished anatomist
and physiologist, to write me briefly his opinions
on the subject. He obligingly complied, and the
following is the useful result.

From the humble position of the fish in the
animal kingdom, namely, at the very foot of the
scale of the vertebrate series, in other words, the
lowliest of that large group of animals distin-
guished by the possession of a spine, it may na-
turally be inferred that those higher attributes of
animals which depend on the presence of nerves,
and of a nervous system, present a corresponding
degree of inferiority. Such an inference would
be strictly true ; for, whatever element of their
construction we examine, whether their bones,
muscles, vessels, nerves, or organs of nutrition,
sense, or reproduction, all suggest alike the idea
of inferiority as contrasted with the higher animals
and man, but of exquisite beauty as compared

218 THE FACULTIES OF FISH.

with, each other, and considered in relation to the
part in the great drama of life which they are
called on to perform. The naturalist, however,
would repudiate the term f inferiority ' as applied
to the structure and organization of the fish — a
sentiment in which we feel sure that the disciple
of Walton will heartily concur ; it is, in truth,
simplicity, so far as the rest of the animal kingdom
is concerned — perfection, in relation to its own
position in the grand scheme of animated nature.

The faculties of the fish which depend on the
nervous system are. Intellect, Sensation, Motion,
and the special senses of Sight, Hearing, Smell,
Taste. Each of these faculties is presided over
by a known part of the nervous system, such part
being the material instrument by which the power
is generated and directed. Hence a pretty correct
inference with regard to amount of faculty may
be deduced from structure alone, that is, from an
examination of the size and qualities of the in-
strument; but, when to the information thus
obtained we add the further knowledge which
observation of the habits and instincts of these
animals contribute, we find ourselves in possession
of ample evidence whereon to frame a correct
and sufficient j udgment.

The Intellect of animals resides in the brain,
in a part of the brain termed the hemispheres ;
and these organs always bear an exact proportion

THE BEAIN OF FISHES. 219

to the degree of manifestation of the intellectual
faculties. Now, the brain of fishes is remarkable
for its small size ; and, of the various parts of
which it is composed, the hemispheres are the
least. Hence we have good reason for assuming
that, as intellectual beings, fishes do not merit a
higher position than that in which they have
been placed by the naturalist. A few instances
are recorded which seem to exhibit a power of
association of ideas on the part of the fish; for
example, their approach to the margin of a stream
or pool to be fed ; but this can only be regarded
as one of the humblest of the mental manifes-
tations; and they would be as likely to advance
towards an enemy as a friend if the position of
the stranger corresponded with that of their ac-
customed feeder.

Sensation, like intellect, resides in the hemi-
spheres of the brain, and the inference deduced
from the smallness of these organs appears to
be just with regard to the faculty in question.
Fishes are as deficient in sensation as they are
abounding in motion ; but the two faculties have
no necessary connection with each other ; few of
the motions of the fish are due to sensation, and
almost as few to the will ; therefore, motion alone
cannot be taken as an index of sensation.

The mobility of fish is an obvious quality of
these animals, and the instrument by which

220 ORGANS OF THE SPECIAL SENSES.

motion is effected the largest in their whole
economy. This faculty draws upon the brain
only for the stimulus derived from sensation and
will, both of which are, as we have seen, of in-
significant strength. The apparatus of motion
includes the spinal marrow and the greater part
of the large and numerous nerves which proceed
therefrom ; and, in addition to this commanding
power resident in the nervous system, a host of
inferior agents, the muscles, by which the imme-
diate phenomena of motion are accomplished.

The organs of special sense, namely, of sight,
hearing, smell, and taste, are each provided with
a vital and a mechanical apparatus. The me-
chanical apparatus of sight, the eye, or, as it is
popularly termed, the eye-ball, or apple of the
eye, is an optical instrument of great perfection.
In man and in the higher animals, the eye-ball
is very nearly globular, the deviation from the
perfectly spherical shape being in favour of a
greater convexity of the transparent front of the
organ. In fishes, on the contrary, the breadth
of the eye greatly exceeds its depth, and it is
flattened in front to a remarkable degree, pre-
senting, in fact, the form of a segment of a
sphere in place of a perfect globe. It is obvious
that this peculiarity of shape is less easily main-
tained than that of an entire sphere; hence, it
is no uncommon thing to find the circumference

OPTICAL APPARATUS OF FISH. 221

of the eye-ball strengthened by a thin cup of
gristle, and, in some instances, of bone. There
is another remarkable difference between the eye
of terrestrial animals and fishes — a difference
which has reference to the nature of the medium
in which the creature lives. For example, the
density of water is so much greater than that of
air, that it is employed in the construction of
the eye-ball of man, and the rest of the air-
breathing terrestrial animals, as a means of di-
recting the rays of light towards the bottom of
the eye, upon which the spotless curtain is spread
which receives the picture of external nature.
But in fishes it is evident that water, as a medium
of refraction of the rays of light, would be per-
fectly useless, since the medium is aqueous,
through which all the rays reach the transparent
window of the organ of vision.

The chambers of the eye of the fish, which in
other animals contain water, are consequently
those which are most easily spared ; and it is the
reduction of capacity in them that gives rise to
the flatness of the front of the eye. The proper
refracting apparatus of the eye-ball of the fish is
a transparent globe of considerable density and
size, termed the lens. In terrestrial animals the
lens is small ; it is scarcely more convex than a
common magnifying glass, and it is soft in its
texture. That of the fish, however, is a much

222 EYE-BALL OF FKESH-WATER FISH.

more powerful agent in the refraction of the rays
of light, and approaches in some of its characters
to the finest glass. By it the rays of light which
pass through the transparent window (cornea) in
the front of the eye are immediately received,
and are as suddenly concentrated on the smooth
expanse of the optic nerve, to be transferred by
the latter to the vital apparatus. As is usual in
optical instruments, there is a thin partition
pierced with a circular aperture (the pupil), inter-
posed between the transparent membrane of the
front of the eye and the lens. This membrane is
intended to regulate the admission of the lumin-
ous rays. In some fishes there are two apertures,
or pupils, in place of one in this partition, a
curious modification, while in some others, as in
the common skate, a broad curtain with a van-
dyked border, is suspended immediately behind
the pupil at its upper part, and serves to veil the
interior of the eye against the vertical rays which
would otherwise interfere with vision. The enu-
meration of all the modifications in the construc-
tion of the eye of the fish with which the naturalist
is acquainted, would form of itself an interesting
chapter; but the subject is too comprehensive to
be more than glanced at in this brief sketch. In
most of the fresh-water fishes the eye-ball plays
in a bony niche, which is specially destined for
its use; while in other fishes in which the bony

VITAL APPARATUS OF YISION. 223

niche is absent, the eye is jointed to a moveable
bony stalk, and moves on the extremity of that
stalk as upon a ball and socket hinge.

The vital apparatus of vision, situated in the
brain, is one of the largest parts of the latter
organ, being more considerable in size than the
hemispheres which are destined to the control of
the threefold faculty of Intellect, Sensation, and
Will. The nerve or conductor which passes be-
tween the vital and .the mechanical apparatus of
vision, is also of large size, and is curious in its
structure ; in external form it has the appearance
of a cylindrical rod, but when opened, the cylinder
is found to be a mere sheath, containing a thin,
white membrane, plaited like a fan. When the
nerve reaches the eye-ball this membrane unfolds,
and is spread out upon the inner surface of the
back part of the eye, constituting the sentient part
of that organ. This white and spotless membrane,
upon which the rich picture of external nature is
received, and by which it is subsequently trans-
ferred for perception to the brain, is the retina.

Whether, therefore, we regard the mechanical
or the vital apparatus of the organ of vision, or
whether we pursue the enquiry by anatomical
investigation, or by observation of the habits of
the animals, we have the clearest evidence before
us, that the faculty of sight in fishes is one of their
highest sentient endowments.

224 ORGAN OF HEARING IN FISH.

In examining the structure of the organ of
vision we are struck by the absence of the out-
works of defence to the eye, namely, the eye-
brows and eye-lids, which are met with among
terrestrial animals. It is clear that these append-
ages are rendered unnecessary by the nature of
the medium in which the creatures reside. The
same observation applies with even stronger force
to the organ of hearing : there is nothing on the
exterior of the head of the fish to indicate that it
is provided with an ear. In the higher animals
the mechanical apparatus of hearing consists of an
external and an internal portion; in fishes the
internal portion alone exists, and is hardly inferior
in perfection of form and structure to that of
creatures placed higher in the animal scale. The
nerves distributed to the organ of hearing are of
large size, and the vital apparatus or portion of
brain, from which the latter proceed, is also con-
siderable. There exists, however, this important
difference between the organ of hearing of ter-
restrial animals and fishes, namely, that the ear
in the former is organised for the reception of the
more delicate vibrations of the atmosphere, while
in the latter it is adapted to the rude oscillations
of a denser element. We ma}7 make this differ-
ence apparent by the following simple illustration.
The impulse occasioned to the air by the ticking
of a watch is so weak, as to be indistinctly heard

POWER OF HEARING OF FISH. 225

when the watch is brought close to the ear, but if
we convey the watch to a greater distance from
the ear and press it against the teeth, or if we
rest one end of a rod of wood against the watch
and the other against our head, we hear the tick-
ing with remarkable distinctness. In the language
of science, solid and dense bodies vibrate with
greater intensity than lighter media, such as the
atmosphere. When the watch is held nigh to the
ear the atmosphere is the conductor ; when the
watch is connected with the ear, by the interven-
tion of a rod of wood, or the solid parts of the
head, these are the conductors. Now the appa-
ratus of hearing of the fish presents conditions of
the latter kind ; water, a denser body than air, is
the conducting medium; and the solid mass of
the head, and, in fact, of the entire body, com-
pletes the conduction to the vital apparatus.
Hence in fishes, an humble contrivance is capable
of effecting the same end as the high-toned in-
strument of terrestrial animals. Fishes must,
therefore, hear with moderate acuteness, particu-
larly such sounds as occasion a vibration of the
element in which they reside ; for example, an
approaching footstep ; while the sounds which
proceed from musical instruments, being less
easily conveyed, are probably unknown to them ;
certainly this is the case with regard to tone.
Those curious porcelain-like bodies, which are
Q

226 THE OEGAN OF SMELL.

found in the head of the fish, and which must be
known to every investigator of the gastronomical
merits of his game, form part of the mechanical
apparatus of hearing.

The external or mechanical apparatus of the
organ of smell is a pair of small cavities or cham-
bers, communicating with the aqueous element
by means of four apertures, and situated near the
extremity of the snout. The two openings of
each olfactory chamber are intended to permit a
free ingress and egress to the water in which the
odorant principles are dissolved. But there exists
no contrivance, so far as we know, for maintain-
ing a constant current through the chambers.
In this particular, the organ of smell of fishes is
greatly inferior to that of higher animals; for in
the latter, the olfactory chambers give passage to
the greater part of the air which enters the lungs,
and are thus enabled to test the quality of all
the air received into the chest for respiration.
In fishes this power is less requisite, hence the
inferiority of construction. The olfactory cham-
bers are lined by a soft membrane, technically a
mucous membrane, which is richly supplied with
blood-vessels, and is brought into connection with
the vital organ by means of a moderately large
conducting nerve. The arrangement of this
membrane evinces one of those beautiful con-
trivances which are so frequently met with in the

YITAL APPARATUS OF SMELL. 227

animal machine, and which are intended to pro-
vide a large surface within a limited space. In
order to increase the extent of this membrane as
much as possible, it is thrown into a -multitude
of minute plaits which radiate from a central
point and have a very elegant appearance. From
the back of the olfactory chambers there proceed,
as we have already stated, two nervous cords,
which conduct the impressions received by the
mucous membrane to the brain.

The vital apparatus of smell, like that of sight,
consists of two round masses or lobes of nervous
substance, which occupy the front of the brain,
and preside over the manifestation of the olfactive
faculty. They are inferior in size to the optic
lobes, though often as large as the hemispheres of
the brain. We are thus supplied with conclusive
evidence of the possession by fishes of a power of
smell. The mechanical and the vital portions of
the apparatus, with the conducting nerve from the
former to the latter, are complete ; the only ques-
tion which requires solution is the degree of the
sentient power. The vital apparatus being large
would be an argument in favour of a vividness of
perception; but the small mechanical portion,
and especially the absence of a stream of water
through the olfactory chambers, leave the organ
imperfect. On these grounds, we should be in-
clined to give the faculty of smell a position next

Q2

228 SENSE OF TASTE IN FISH.

in order to that of hearing, and greatly inferior
to that of sight.

Taste is at all times, and in all animals, a
modification of common sensation, or the simple
sense of touch. Its seat in fishes is probably the
whole interior of the mouth, the tongue of these
creatures being, as is well known, very small and
very imperfectly developed. The observations
which we have previously made with regard to
sensation and to the vital organs of that faculty
—the hemispheres — are applicable here. We
cannot give the fish credit for any refinement of
taste, and taste, with touch and feeling, must be
content to occupy the lowest rank of the nervous
senses.

It is impossible to regard the distribution of
the higher faculties of the fish, which is here
portrayed, without a sentiment of admiration of
the wisdom and goodness of Providence, that has
thus restricted the sensations of a large group of
creatures, living in an element of danger, and
destined to be the prey of the more powerful of
their own kind as well as of the other classes of
animals. They have the eye to see, the ear to
apprehend, and the muscular system to escape
danger. They have also a power of smell to dis-
criminate the qualities of the stream which it is
their pleasure to seek; while the absence of
nicety of taste renders them unheedful of the

PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS. 229

savour of their food, and an imperfect sensation
saves them from the pangs which they otherwise
must feel in the grasp of their destroyer.

The angler who will study these observations,
and avail himself of the lesson which they convey,
will judge how far it is necessary to keep out of
the sight of fish, and refrain from making a noise
— to what extent fish suffer torment from the
hook, and how far it is useful to employ scented
baits to please their palates.

230 NATURAL HISTORY OF SALMON.

CHAPTEE X.

THE HABITS OP THE ANGLER'S FISH, AND THE BEST WAYS
OF CATCHING THEM FAIRLY.

THE SALMON. — Salmo Salar.

THE natural history of this splendid fish, the pride
and profit of the great rivers of the British Isles,
was nearly unknown fifteen years ago. The
greatest natural historians, from the French
Lacepede down to our own observant Yarrell,
were ignorant of many of the main features of its
existence. Until the period alluded to we were
nearly all in error with respect to its growth, and
we thought the parr a salmon fry. We have now
ascertained its growth, and know positively that
the parr is not a young salmon of the first year,
but a pure trout of the smallest variety, and not
unlike a salmon fry in the eighth month of its
existence. We also know that up to the begin-
ning of its second year the growth of salmon is

DEPOSITING THE OVA. 231

exceedingly slow; that afterwards it is wonderfully
rapid, but in salt water only. Once a grilse or a
salmon, in fresh water its growth is stationary.

I shall, before I enter into detail, give in a
very few words the salient points of the salmon's
natural history. The female salmon, viz. the fish
with what is commonly called the 'hard roe,'
deposits its eggs, spawn, or ova, in gravel beds, in
the autumn and winter months. Simultaneously
with deposition, the ova are impregnated by the
spawn (the milt) of the male fish, or 6 soft roe,'
being exuded over them. That is the active
process of procreation. The deposited ova are
hatched on an average in from one hundred to
one hundred and forty days; duration of time
depending on the temperature of the water. The
warmer the water the more rapid is the work of
incubation. In a few weeks after expulsion from
the ova the incubated matter assumes the fish
shape. This embryo salmon grows slowly, and
remains for the first year the diminutive fry or
smolt. On completing its first year it changes
its coat, and indeed its shape. The transverse
bar-marks and spots disappear, and it becomes the
silver-grey smolt, salmon fry, or lastspring. Its
first year or thereabouts being completed, it mi-
grates for the first time to the sea, and in two or
three months or more returns to its parent river
a peal or grilse, having increased two pounds or

232 GROWTH OF SALMON.

so during every month it has tarried in sea water.
About the end of its second year, and not unfre-
quently four or five months sooner, it breeds, and
soon after, say two or three months, migrates for
the second time to the sea. A sojourn there of a
few weeks changes its name, size, and shape, and
immigrating again into its native stream it be-
comes a salmon. To deserve that name it must
have made two voyages to sea, and entered the
third year or thereabouts of its existence. After-
wards, as long as it lives, it visits the sea annually,
and annually revisits the streams of its birth, in
which it gives birth to thousands of its tribe.
Become an adult, the longer it remains at sea the
more rapid is its growth. In fresh water it no
longer thrives, and seems to seek the pure element
for the purpose, although not invariably, of pro-
pagating its species. I have now in a very few
lines traced the grand outlines of salmon life. I
shall now confine myself to some minute details,
omitting those that I do not think it necessary
for the mere angler to know.

Mr. John Shaw of Drumlanrig, and Mr. A.
Young of Sutherlandshire, the former the manager
of the Duke of Buccleuch's salmon fisheries, the
latter of those of the Duke of Sutherland, were
the first to prove publicly some of the facts above
• glanced at.

Salmon begin spawning in some rivers as early

SALMON SPAWNING. 233

as September, and continue doing so through the
winter months ; the chief ones being December,
January, and February. A few remain on the
spawning grounds ; and Mr. Scrope says he has
caught full 4 roeners,' as they are called, in the
month of May in the Tweed.

6 Salmon,' I have recently written in a note to
a new edition of 4 The Complete Angler,' ' never
deposit their spawn in deep or still water. If
they did, it would not be vivified. To vivify
salmon ova impregnated by the milt, the combined
influence of running water, atmospheric and solar
action, are necessary. Hence Nature directs the
salmon to spawn in shallows, or the fords, as they
are called, and even to run up narrow, shallow,
rapid brooks, tributaries to the larger salmon
rivers, to do so. The female chooses a mate, who
must make good her selection by fighting for it ;
and in these salmon onslaughts the trite saying,
" None but the brave deserve the fair," is fully
verified. The male fish that remains in victorious
possession of his aquatic bride, proceeds with her
to make choice of the marital bed, having driven
from it all intruders. This bed is placed in a
shallow part of the river, and consists of gravel
and sand. Having chosen it, it is necessary to
make it. I cannot tell whether it is the gentle-
man or lady that commences the operation first,
which is done by one or the other darting its head

234 SALMON DIGGING THEIR NESTS.

into the gravel, and burrowing upwards and
downwards in it, the tail being used as a propel-
ling power, and the snout as an excavating one.
As soon as one fish gets tired, the other takes its
place. When one link or nest of the bed is deep
and large enough, the female enters it and deposits
the mature portion of her ova, or part of it, and
then retires. Forthwith the male takes her place
and exudes some of his milt upon the ova, thereby
impregnating them. This done, they proceed to dig
another nest, the gravel and sand excavated from
which covers the ova in the first nest made. This
process is continued, nest above nest being dug,
until the female has deposited all her ova. This is
not the work of one day : it may extend from two
or three to eight or ten, according to the size
and age of the fish, that is, according to the
quantity of ova to be deposited. The younger
and smaller the female fish, the fewer ova she has,
the sooner they will be all mature, and the more
rapidly they will be deposited, and the whole
process of digging the different nests of the narrow
longitudinal bed, and covering them in, be com-
pleted. Once covered in, the fish have no further
care for the spawn. They drop down into the next
deep pool, and there remain until they become
partly convalescent from the exhausting effects of
spawning. They are now " mended kelts," com-
mencing their voyage to the sea to recruit

SALMON FRY. 235

thoroughly their health, to grow and fatten in
submarine feeding fields. In from 100 to 140
days the ova are hatched. The foetus at first is
like a large larva with a little sack of nutritious
vitelline matter attached to its neck. On this it
lives for about a month, when the sack disappears,
the foetus assumes a fish shape, and is able to seek
for food for itself amongst the gravel. At two
months the fry is perfectly shaped, and strongly
marked with transverse bars, and pink spots along
the lateral line. The transverse bars are erro-
neously called " parr " marks ; some naturalists
confounding the salmon fry with the diminutive
trout called the " parr." At two months the fry
eagerly feed upon flies on the surface of the
water, and small worms or larvae at the bottom.
It goes on slowly increasing in size until it is a
year old, when the transverse bar marks disappear,
and it assumes a silvery exterior covering of small
scales, called its " migrating " coat. It is now a
smolt ; and with the first moderate flood it takes
its maiden trip to the sea. It feeds therein from
two to four months on an average, and then immi-
grates to its natal river a " grilse." In the ensuing
autumn or winter it breeds for the first time, and
returns again to the sea. Having sojourned there
the requisite time, it immigrates for the first time,
and is now an adult, though not an aged salmon.'
It would be impossible to write more correctly

236 GROWTH OF SALMON.

on the growth of salmon than I have already done
in the 'Book of the Salmon,' pp. 197-201, as
follows : — 4 At the end of a year, the whole of it
passed in fresh water, the young fish, on an aver-
age, weighs little more than three ounces. At
that weight, being a smolt, it descends to the sea ;
and if it should remain therein, say for eight or
nine weeks, and then return to its natural element,
fresh water, it will, in all probability, and no
specific circumstances preventing, have increased
by the end of that time to the weight of five
pounds or more. This rapidity of increase is
most wonderful ; and though an adult salmon has
been known to double its weight by sea-food in
thirty-eight days, nothing like the increase that
takes place between the smolt and grilse states
ever after occurs. So, if the growth of salmon
during the first year of their existence is extremely
slow in fresh water, it is, after that age, by far
more than proportionably rapid in salt water. It
will be well to bear in mind that the growth of
salmon is not always proportioned to the length of
time they sojourn at sea. Several circumstances
affect their rate of physical development. Amongst
others, indeed, these are the chief ones — quality
and quantity of food found on the salt-water feed-
ing-grounds, and hereditary capacity for growth.
By "hereditary capacity " I mean, that the off-
spring of large fish have the inherent power of

GROWTH OP SALMON. 237

growing, and do grow, faster and to a larger size
than the young salmon of small race. When I
speak of large and small salmon, I refer to fish
which eventually become very large, and to fish
which, no matter what their age, will always be
small ; in fact, to giant and dwarf breeds. The
growth of salmon fry is pretty equal in all rivers ;
and, therefore, smolts, no matter whether they
are the produce of large or small salmon, will be
found in different rivers, not differing much in
size. Such is not the case, however, after the
smolt stage of existence. After that, the growth
of the offspring of large-growing salmon is more
rapid than that of the produce of salmon of more
diminutive race. The smolts of rivers which
produce salmon weighing forty pounds, grow faster
to the grilse and in the salmon state, than the
smolts of rivers whose largest fish do not exceed
twenty pounds ; and faster still than the smolts of
rivers, the salmon of which do not average more
than ten pounds in weight each. I will suppose
three rivers running, at short distances the one
from the other, into the same arm of the sea, as
do the Shin, the Oikel, and the Carsely, and that
smolts from each descend simultaneously, and
take up their quarters on the same feeding-
grounds. Again, I will suppose them returning
in the grilse state simultaneously to their respec-
tive natal rivers. It will be found that the grilse

238 GROWTH OF SALMON AT SEA.

of the Shin will be larger and much longer than
the grilse of the Oikel, and that the grilse of the
Oikel will be larger than the grilse of the Carsely.
The reason' of this disparity is, the full-grown
fish of the Shin are much larger than those of
the Oikel, and the adult fish of the latter are
somewhat larger than those of the Carsely. The
growth of salmon at sea, and at sea only — for,
after having attained in fresh water the srnolt
size, they make no further increase in the non-
saline element — depends on three things : dura-
tion of time they remain on their sea feeding-
grounds, quality and quantity of food they obtain
thereon, and hereditary capacity for growth with
apportioned powers of digestion. The grilse of
small salmon, that is, of salmon which never grow
beyond a small size, are handsomer, in every way
better shaped, and generally of a brighter hue,
than the grilse, the produce of larger-growing
salmon. The grilse of the rivers Carron and Lax-
ford, in Eoss-shire and Sutherlandshire, are hand-
some, small-headed, thick and deep and short in
the body ; the scales of which are small, smooth,
and bright, because they are the offspring of small
parent salmon; whereas, the grilse of the river
Shin, in which salmon grow to a very large size,
are ill-shapen fish, having large heads, long, thin
bodies, large, long fins, and large, rough, and by
no means brilliant scales. It requires experience

SIMILARITY OF GRILSE TO SALMON.

239

to distinguish a large and well-shaped grilse fronra
small salmon ; indeed, grilse are sometimes larger
than salmon, for the same reason that a young
Dorking fowl is larger than an aged bantam.
Frequently the only distinguishing marks between
grilse and salmon are the smaller scales of the
former, and the longer and larger fins in propor-
tion to size. The fins of a grilse of eight pounds
in weight are longer and larger than those of a
salmon of the same size. The tail of the grilse is
deeply forked; that of the salmon less so, and
very slightly indeed when in prime condition.'

The following table shows the growth of grilse
into salmon : —

When marked

When retaken

Weight of
Grilse

Weight of
Salmon

Ibs.

Ibs.

February 18

June 23

4

9

18

25

4

11

, 18

25

4

9

18

25

4

10

, 18

27

4

13

18

28

4

10

March 4

July 1

4

12

4

1

4

14

4

10

12

18

4

27

4

12

Mr. Scropesays, ' The above disparity of growth
is easily accounted for, since it is not probable
that these fish, which were caught, marked, and

240 WHY SALMON LEAYE THE SEA.

returned to the river in February, went down to
the sea before March, if, indeed, so early: of
course they would not increase in growth in fresh
water, though they would mend somewhat in
weight, after their weak spawning state. Setting
these, therefore, aside, it appears that the growth
of the last four fish averaged two pounds each per
month when they were at sea ; and if they re-
mained in the river after the 4th of March, as
it is reasonable to suppose they did, then their
growth must have been proportionably greater.'

I will go back again to before spawning time,
and trace the habits of the salmon up to that
time.

Salmon enter rivers from the sea as early as
February and March, for the sole purpose, it is
supposed, of spawning; but it must have some
other object in view as well, since at the earliest
the spawning process does not commence until
September. It cannot be for nourishment, be-
cause it is well known that salmon lose in weight
and condition every day they remain in fresh
water. Mr. Scrope goes on to remark, ' Some
think it is to get rid of the sea-louse ; but this
supposition must be set aside, when it is known
that this insect adheres only to some of the newly
run fish, which are the best in condition. I think
it more probable that they are driven from the
coasts, near the river, by the numerous enemies

THE HAUNTS OF SALMON. 241

they encounter there, such as porpoises and seals,
which alarm them in great quantities. However
this may be, they remain in the fresh water till
the spawning months commence. On the first
arrival of the spring salmon from the sea, they are
apt to take up their seats in the rear of a skull of
kelts, and at this early period they are brown in
the back, fat, and in high condition. In the cold
months they lie in the deep and easy water ; and
as the season advances they draw into the principal
rough streams, always lying in places where they
can be least easily discovered. They are very
fond of a stream above a deep pool, into which
they can fall back in case of disturbance. They
prefer lying upon even rock, or behind large
blocks of stone, particularly such as are of a
colour approaching that of themselves. At every
swell of the river, unless it is a very trifling one,
the fish move upwards nearer the spawning places ;
so that no one can reckon upon preserving his
particular part of the river, which is the chief
reason of the universal destruction of these valu-
able animals. Previous to a flood, the fish fre-
quently leap out of the water, either for the
purpose of filling their air-bladders to make them
more buoyant for travelling, or from excitement,
or, perhaps, to exercise their powers of ascending
heights and cataracts in the course of their
journey upwards.'

242 SALMON-FISHER'S ROD.

Historians used to gravely tell us that salmon,
in order to jump high, were in the habit of placing
their tails in their mouths, and then, bending
themselves like a bow, bound out of the water to
a considerable distance, from twelve to twenty
feet. Mr. Scrope calculates that six feet in height
is more than the average spring of salmon, though
he conceives that very large fish, in deep water,
could leap much higher. He says, ' Large fish
can spring much higher than small ones ; but their
powers are limited or augmented according to the
depth of water they spring from ; in shallow water,
they have little power of ascension ; in deep, they
have the most considerable. They rise rapidly
from the very bottom to the surface of the water
by means of rowing and sculling, as it were, with
their fins and tail; and this powerful impetus
bears them upwards in the air, on the same prin-
ciple that a few tugs of the oar make a boat shoot
onwards after one has ceased to row.'

THE SALMON-FISHER'S EOD. — Before I proceed
to teach how this angling apparatus must be used,
I shall state what it should be in shape, size,
material, and so forth. No salmon fly-rod need
ever be longer than eighteen feet, and should
never be shorter than sixteen. With two well-
made rods of the above lengths, the widest and
narrowest salmon-rivers may be properly fished,
and salmon and salmonidao of every size satis-

LENGTH OF RODS. 243

factorily captured. I am fully aware of the ad-
vantages of very long and very powerful rods in
wide rivers, and in strong hands ; and I admit,
cceteris paribus, that a strong man, six feet in
height, with a rod twenty feet long, and winch
and line to match, will cover more water, and
capture a greater number of salmon in less time,
than a man of five feet six, with a seventeen or
eighteen-foot rod. In all other respects I suppose
them equal ; that the tall man is as expert an
angler as the short one, that the flies and tackle-
are equally good, equally well made, and of
equally good material. This equality being con-
ceded, the only difference will be that which exists
between the length, size, and strength of the men
and their tackle. This difference is advantageous
to the stronger man, particularly in large rivers
prolific of large fish.

A man of the average height, weight, and
strength of Englishmen (5 feet 8 inches, and 10 J
stone), should never use a rod longer than 17 feet,
or at the utmost 17 J feet. That is the average
length I recommend for powerful rods. With it
the largest salmon that ever swam can be safely
played and securely captured. A winch that will
carry sixty, eighty, or sometimes one hundred yards
of stout line, will not destroy the balance of such
a rod. Twenty-five yards of line — perhaps, in
the hands of a well-trained adept thirty yards —

K 2

244 MEOWING THE LINE.

may be thrown with it5 without danger to its
top-joint or small-pieces, and such a cast is suffi-
ciently long for all useful intents and purposes,
and the strongest salmon may be checked in its
career — hook, gut, and winch-line, being of good
material — by a rod not exceeding in length
seventeen feet.

The salmon-rod is to be held with both hands,
one above, and the other below the winch. In
throwing from the right side, the right hand is to
grasp the rod above the winch, the left below it.
In casting from the left shoulder, the left hand is
to be first and the right last; that is, it must
clutch the rod between the winch and the extreme
butt-end of the rod. In fishing down a river on
its right side, the left shoulder-cast is to be used ;
in fishing from the left bank, the right-shoulder
throw is the proper one. Stand at the head of a
stream, looking down it as it runs from you, the
bank on your right side is the right-hand bank ;
that on the left, the left-hand shore. In ascend-
ing a river, the left-hand bank is on your right
side, and the right-hand bank on your left. This
explanation may be deemed superfluous, but I
fancy it will enable me hereinafter to be more
perspicuous than if I had not given it.

I'll suppose the salmon-fisher coming down the
right side of a river, and that above him, to his
right, are cliffs or trees — how can he bring back

THE BACK-HANDED CAST DESCRIBED. 245

to that side over his right shoulder, rod and line,
without causing them to come into collision with
the impediments behind him on his right ? He
can do so in two ways — the first in greater part
wrong, the other perfectly right. The first and
imperfect way, I call the back-handed cast. It is
performed thus : — the point of the rod held nearly
perpendicularly up before you — the forward and
upward slanting direction being very slight indeed
— the point of the rod is swept to the left, and
with it the line, to its entire development ; then
the hands, — no, not both, but the right one, —
wrist, and fore-arm, are turned over, backwards,
to the right, and the rod brought round in the
same direction ; the line is turned over circularly,
and propelled down or obliquely across the current.
I frequently throw in this way, for the purpose
merely of easing the arms, fatigued from the mo-
notonous action of throwing over-hand from the
right or left shoulder. It will be seen that the
effect of this throw will be to carry the line clear
from the bank behind, up and over the river, and
then to bring it back over the current's course,
and cause it to alight down stream to the right.
Notwithstanding, the action of the arms must be
cramped, for it is reversed in the over-handed
throw, and the cast must be very limited in ex-
tent. Besides, when fishing from the right bank
of a river, the fly can never be so neatly worked

246 THE LEFT-SHOULDEK CAST EXPLAINED.

against the water with the right hand holding the
rod above the winch, as when the left hand holds
it there. The second method of casting from the
right bank, and which is the proper one, I will
now explain.

You hold your rod, the left hand being above
the winch, and the right one beneath it ; left leg
foremost, and left side towards the river. You
bring your rod round, by, over, and beyond the
point of your left shoulder, which motion will
carry the line to its full extent upwards over the
bed of the river, and feeling that the line is so
extended, you bring back a little, in the direction
you are going to cast, the point of the rod, and
making use chiefly of the action of the left arm,
you propel the line forward by a motion you give
the rod, as if you were going to strike at some-
thing hovering in the air before you. The for-
ward motion of the rod will be checked at a short
distance, unless you bend forward with it, and
the line will be sent straight out, the fly and gut-
line, to which it is attached, coming first in con-
tact with the water. Giving the arms and bend-
ing the body too much with the rod, in making
the cast, is a very bad habit, as it brings the point
of the rod too close to the surface of the water,
deadens its elastic and propelling action, and
causes the line to fall in a loose and slovenly
manner on the water. This left shoulder-cast is

THE STRAIGHT RIGHT-SHOULDER CAST. 247

only absolutely necessary when you are fishing
from beneath the right bank of a river, and have
behind you impediments to a right-hand sweep of
your rod and line. If the right bank be flat or
shelving — if it be clear of obstructions — I can
see no material objection to right-shoulder casting
from off it.

The straight right-shoulder cast is done thus :
the right hand holds the rod above the winch, the
left below it ; the right side is next the river, and,
of course, the right foot is foremost. You bring
your rod and line boldly and freely in a fine, easy,
wide, semicircular sweep over your right shoulder,
and then you send them forwards by communi-
cating to the right fore-arm sharp action, as if
you were going to hit something elevated before
you with the soft part of your closed hand, on the
little finger side. If all this compound action —
bringing back the rod and line over the right
shoulder, and then sharply sending them forward
— be performed dashingly and energetically, with-
out nervousness, stint of sweep, and strength,
your fly will be sent straight away to its destina-
tion, similarly to, but not so swiftly as, an arrow
shot from above at an object sitting beneath you
on the water, at a distance of five-and- twenty or
thirty yards. The straight casts, whether from the
left or right shoulder, are, generally speaking, the
best. At any rate, executed by a proficient, they

248 STRAIGHT CASTING EULOGISED.

are always the neatest, and should by beginners be,
the first learnt, and then practised unto perfection.
They can be performed with great accuracy, so as
to enable the angler to determine, almost to an
inch, the precise spot on which his fly is to fall.
They cause the fly and casting-line to touch the
water first, and enable you to commence working
the fly or showing it to the fish, sooner than you
could do if much of the winch-line came in con-
tact with the water simultaneously with the
casting-line. The effect of the straight cast is
less disturbance to the water than that of any
other species of cast ; the only defect that can be
attached to it is, that you cannot by its means
throw so far as by using the side, or rolling cast,
but you can throw it more neatly.

Your fly and gut-line must always fall first
upon the water, and not roll on to it by means of
the winch-line first coming into contact with the
liquid surface. The rolling descent of the line
and fly should be avoided totis viribus, with mortal
might and main. The error of the majority of
salmon-fishers lies in their working the fly through
the water with too much force and rapidity. I
am told, and I have reason to believe it from
some personal observation, that the error is more
frequently committed by Irish salmon-fishers than
by Scotch. The latter, however, perpetrate it
commonly enough to be adjudged sinners re-

WORKING THE SALMON-FLY. 249

quiring earnest admonition. I advise gentle work-
ing of the fly through and against the water, with
no more action than is required to display before
the eyes of the fish the artificial bait attractively ;
with no more speedy power than can be easily
compassed by a pursuing fish.

The salmon-fly is always to be worked or hu-
moured against the current, never with it ; to be
worked up and down beneath the water's surface,
head foremost and onwards towards the angler, or
rather in the direction of the point of the rod.
This is done by moving your hands and arms up
and down, somewhat in the way you would work
a light and free pump-handle. The up-and-down
motion of your hands will communicate a similar
motion to your rod, line, and fly — similar in ap-
pearance, but not in degree. The casting-line
and fly will be less influenced by the action of the
hands and arms than the rod ; and the winch-line
— at least the portion of it in the water — will feel
the action less than the rod, but somewhat more
than the casting-line and fly. In performing this
up-and-down action, the line must be drawn in a
little, by directing the upward motion of the rod
a little towards yourself.

In hooking a rising fish, Mr. Scrope properly
observes, ' It is best to strike a little sideways, that
the hook may fasten in the fleshy part of the
mouth ; whereas, if you pull straight up, you are

250 STRIKING AT, AND HOOKING SALMON.

apt to encounter the upper or bony part ; or, if
the fish has not closed his jaws, and fairly turned
off, you may pull the fly away from him too soon,
to the disappointment of both parties. Some-
times, however, when a salmon is clean run, and
in high glee, you can scarcely miss him, strike
which way you will. In low water you must be
somewhat dilatory in striking : you often see the
heave of the water and a break before the fish
has actually seized your fly. Give him time to
turn his head in his way back to his seat, to
which a salmon always returns after rising at the

fly-'

Never strike sharply at a salmon-rise : a gentle
pull of your rod and line a little upwards and
towards you will do. You will then hook him
gently, and he will fasten the hook fast enough
himself as he moves away. In playing your
salmon, use him very gently at first, particularly
if he is inclined to adopt gentle conduct towards
you. By gentleness you may persuade him that
he is not hooked at all, and you may coax him
away from the shelters of rocks, &c., and lead him
into open water, where, when he Begins his strug-*
gles, you may have a clear stage on which to do
battle with him. When once his struggles have
begun, you must give and take line according to
the fish's strength, and that of your tackle. Butt
him whenever you think you can do so safely,

POSITIONS CHOSEN BY SALMON. 251

without a smash ; and never fail to try the but-
ting system when your fish is darting for some
dangerous retreat.

In the absence of a guide, take it as a general
rule that salmon are seldom seen resting on a
smooth, gravelly, or muddy bottom. They incline
towards lying amongst rocks and large stones ;
and if a rapid current runs through them, the
angler must work his fly, not in the middle of it,
but by each side of it, for it is there salmon lie,
between the still and the rapid water. Salmon
very seldom lie in the middle of a rapid current ;
they could not do so without over-exertion. In
rocky or stony pools, where the current is mo-
derate, salmon lie in almost every part — before
and behind, and between small rocks, and at the
extreme end of the pool, where it is falling some-
what rapidly to form the head of the next stream
below. Two rocks or large stones opposite to
each other, and somewhat apart, form two currents
which meet in an angle ; within, or a little below
this angular point, salmon constantly lie. The
fly should be thrown a little below the angular,
or pointed, meeting of the currents, and then be
worked first straight up the middle between them,
and then on the inner side of each current. In
good rivers I have seldom failed to find fish in
spots like the last described. I would never fish
in the boiling foam, underneath waterfalls and

252 RIVER SHANNON FLIES.

weirs. In fine late spring, summer, and early
autumn weather, salmon rise best of mornings
and evenings; before 10 o'clock A.M., and after
5 o'clock P.M. In early spring-tide, I consider
the best hours for salmon-fishing are those between
10 A.M., and 4 P.M. It is complete loss of time
to fly-fish for salmon in the middle of the day,
when the water is low and clear, and the sun
shining out cloudlessly. When the mercury in
the barometer is falling, fish never rise ; when it
is rising salmon rise, no matter from what point
the wind blows.

No. 1. Body, half light orange, half blue silk,
to be ribbed with broad silver tinsel and gold
twist; a lightish blue hackle, stripped on one
side, over the body; blue jay under shoulder;
head, seal's fur dyed yellow; tag, orange silk;
above it another tag of fur of deeper orange hue ;
tail, large topping ; wings, ten or twelve largest
sized toppings, sprigs of the leading tail feathers
of the golden pheasant, and four long feelers of
blue and yellow macaw. This is a standard spring
Shannon fly. It should be dressed on a No. 3 or
4 Phillips's hook, with shank lengthened to the
dimension of a No. 1 or 2. We are all now

RIVER SHANNON FLIES. 253

averse to salmon hooks that are very large and
heavy at the bend and barb. The largest sized
hooks should never be wider in the bend than
No. 3 or 4 hooks, with shanks as long as the old
hooks marked No. 1 and 2 by me, and by Phillips
4 and 5.

No. 2. Body, half orange, half black floss-silk,
over all of which a plain ginger hackle, and silver
tinsel and gold twist ; blue silk tag, tipped with
silver; blue jay at shoulder, and blue fur head.
Wings and hook as before.

No. 3. Pomona-green floss-silk body over
which blood-red hackle, stripped on one side;
orange tag, jay under shoulder, and blue head.
Wings and hook as before.

No. 4. Black floss-silk body, silver tinsel and
lemon-colour hackle over it; orange tag, dark
head, and wings and hook as before.

No. 5. Body, all blue or purple floss-silk, over
which a blue hackle ; yellow head, and wings and
hook as before.

I now come to three much smaller flies for the
river Shannon. They are used in the summer
and autumn months, chiefly for grilse, or, as they
are called in Ireland, ' salmon peal.' ^

At the head of them stands the ' Goldfinch ' —
that beauty standing first in the frontispiece, and
described at the end of the list of salmon flies.
Then comes

254 BALLYSHANNON FLIES.

No. 2. It is to be similar to the c Goldfinch/
except that its body is to be of light-green floss-
silk.

No. 3. Body, claret floss-silk, gold-tinsel, and
blue jay-hackle over it; orange tag, and black
ostrich head. Wings, broken-up fibres of blue,
yellow, and red macaw, guinea-fowl, and golden
pheasant tail-feathers ; over the wings, one or two
toppings. Hook, No. 5 and 6.

I consider this one of the best types of a
gaudily mixed wing, and one that would suit
bodies of other flies, made of materials of plain,
Quaker-like colours.

No. 1. Body, yellow or gold-coloured floss-silk,
ribbed with gold tinsel; black ostrich tag, and
two toppings for tail ; legs, a bright yellow hackle,
from the tail upwards, and a little yellowish-green
mohair and blue jay at the shoulder. Wings, two
toppings mixed with golden pheasant neck-
feathers, and a few fibres of ibis, bustard, mallard,
Argus pheasant, peacock wing, yellow macaw,
and a little green parrot ; head, black ostrich harl.
Hook, No. 6 and 7.

No. 2. Body, orange floss-silk, ribbed with
gold tinsel, a deep orange hackle struck over the

BALLYSHANNON FLIES. 255

body, and blue jay at the shoulder Wings, two
cock of the rock feathers, with a topping at each
side of them extending a little longer than they
over the bend of the hook, with fibres of mallard
and jungle-cock; tail a rather long topping;
head black, with a little blue mohair under-
neath ; feelers, blue and yellow macaw. Hooks
as before.

No. 3. Body, lilac floss-silk, gold twist, and
tag of orange mohair ; blue dun hackle over all,
with jay and kingfisher at the shoulder. Wings,
a few fibres of mallard, mixed with toppings, neck
and tail-feathers of the golden pheasant, also a
few fibres of cock of the rock, bustard, guinea-
hen, and green parrot; feelers, blue and yellow
macaw. Hook, No. 7 and 8.

No. 4. Body, light blue dun fur, mixed with
yellow mohair, and ribbed with gold tinsel ; over
body, wound side by side, two grizzled cock's
hackles, dyed yellow and orange ; blue jay at
shoulder, and underneath it a cock of the rock
feather, wound round the throttle. Wings, half-
a-dozen middle-sized toppings, mixed with mallard
and blue macaw, and on each side of the wings a
jungle-cock feather; dark blue head and the usual
feelers. Hook, No. 6 and 7.

These four patterns are, to my mind, perfection.
Flies dressed after them will be of medium size,
tending to small. They will kill in any water in

256 LOWER BLACKWATER FLIES.

the world, wherein salmon are tempted by brilliant
colours, variegated and subdued by an admixture
of hues, whose rich beauty surpasses that of
splendid gaudiness.

SOUTH OF IRELAND FLIES.

ltetf far fyt Hatoa: Blacfcfoatcr, Cattntg Cnrfc.

The following flies are for Lismore, on the
Blackwater — for the pools and rivers below it
seawards. The largest spring fly for that locality
is dressed on a hook about two inches in length ;
the largest spring fly for the upper Blackwater is
half an inch shorter. All these flies are to be
varied in size according to the season. Summer
and low-water flies are very small — grilse and
white trout size, on hooks. No. 5, 6, and 7 English.
Lismore is an excellent salmon locality, at a
very moderate ride either from Waterford or
Cork.

No. 1. Grey body of donkey's fur (from the
butt of the ear) or hedgehog's fur, silver tinsel,
gold-colour tip ; tail, a few sprigs of mallard and
golden pheasant breast-feather; a darker shade
than tip of gold colour under the shoulder ; blue
or blood-red head ; wings, mixed fibres of golden
pheasant tail and breast-feathers, mallard and
brown turkey ; flyers or feelers, of blue macaw.

FLIES FOR THE BLACKWATER. 257

No. 2. Body, light brown olive fur and hackle,
gold tinsel ; tail, same as before ; golden yellow
tag, a very short joint of grey fur between the tag
and olive fur; wings as before, jay hackle outside
them ; blue or deep-red head.

No. 3. Amber colour tag ; tail as before ; one
third the body next the tail grey fur, remainder
dark bright green fur and same coloured hackle ;
blood-red head ; wings as before, with the addition
of some green peacock sprigs.

No. 4. Tag, golden yellow silk, close to which
two turns of black ostrich harl; body, claret or
puce silk, over which a golden olive hackle and
silver tinsel; jay round the shoulder outside the
wing, which must be rather gaudy, and have
a few fibres of red parrot feather; head, black
ostrich.

Spring fflitZ fnr tljt ?Eppcr ISIacfcfoato.

No. 1. Gold colour silk tag; body, squirrel and
hedgehog's fur mixed ; green olive and blood-red
hackle over body ; silver twist, pale yellow and
blood-red hackle laid side by side under shoul-
der ; wings, fibres of the golden pheasant breast-
feathers, mallard, turkey, blue macaw, red and
green parrot and green peacock; black ostrich
head.

No. 2. Orange silk tag, near it black ostrich
s

258 FLIES FOR THE BLACKWATER

harl ; body, four joints of equal proportions ; thus,
brown seal's fur and hackle, blue ditto, grey fur
and hackle, brown seal's fur and hackle, orange
hackle under shoulder, the first brown joint ribbed
with gold, the remainder with silver tinsel ; black
ostrich head.

No. 3. Tag, blood-red fur ; next, a short joint of
deep bright orange silk and hackle ; a small blood-
red hackle laid next, then a long joint of dark
sea-green fur and hackle, ribbed with gold ; blood-
red hackle under shoulder'; black ostrich head;
wings as before.

These three flies should be dressed on hooks
about 1-^inch in length, and at low water shorter.
Their tails should be of fibres of golden pheasant,
light blue macaw, green and red parrot, mallard
and blue peacock harl.

e Sffpper SSIacfcfoater.

No. 1. Body, grey fur and hackle, and ribbed
with silver tinsel; tag and head, blue; jay under
shoulder; wings, mallard, blue peacock fibres,
golden pheasant breast-feathers ; and two sprigs
of blue macaw for flyers.

No. 2. This fly is called ' The blue Jay,' and is
a standard spring and summer fly on Irish waters.
It is dressed thus : — Body, light-blue silk and gold
tinsel, orange tag and black ostrich harl near it ;

AND LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 259

tail, sprigs of golden pheasant breast-feathers,
mallard and light-blue macaw; blue jay hackle
over body, blood-red hackle at the shoulder;
wings, golden pheasant breast-feather, mallard,
light-blue macaw and kingfisher; black ostrich
head. Hook, No. 3, 4, and 5 English. This fly
will kill in summer and autumn with orange in-
stead of blue silk for body.

No. 3. Body, dark grey fur, brown olive and
grey hackle run over body, gold tinsel ; blue fur
under shoulder ; wings and hooks as before ; and
black head.

of Utilarneg—

No. 1. All shades of brown and olive bodies,
with same coloured hackles, ribbed with gold ;
wings, brown mallard or turkey's feather ; tail,
rather heavy of fibres of brown mallard, golden
pheasant's breast-feather, and blue jay.

No. 2. Tag, gold colour mohair and gold twist,
then a lightish blue joint with grey hackle and no
twist, half a grouse hackle laid next, remainder
of body ant-brown fur and hackle and gold twist ;
jay under shoulder ; wings, brown mallard and
turkey, with a few sprigs of golden pheasant
breast-feather ; black head. An excellent general

S 2

260 FLIES FOR WATERVILLE.

? Summer ffliti.

Besides ant-brown fur and hackle and brown
mallard wings, blue hackles over black bodies
and wings, as before. Hare's ear and orange
mohair mixed, golden olive hackle and wings, as
before. Hare's ear and green golden olive hackle
for body and wings, as before. Very dark brown
olive fur and same coloured hackle for body and
wings, as before.

No. 1. Body, fiery-brown mohair, same coloured
hackle, gold twist, and a small claret hackle round
the shoulder; wings, mallard, blue macaw, and
golden pheasant neck-feathers neatly mixed ; tail,
mallard, red ibis, blue macaw, and golden phea-
sant neck-feather, a fibre or two of each, and black
ostrich head. Hook, small.

No. 2. Body, dun fur, ribbed with silver twist
and blue dun hackle over ; bright yellow tag, a
little yellow mohair at the shoulder ; wings, tail,
head, and hook as before.

No. 3. Body, claret pig's hair, ribbed with gold,
black cock's hackle, yellow tag and a roll of black
ostrich harl above it, yellow pig's hair at shoulder ;
wings, tail, head, and hook as before.

The lake of Waterville and the small river

SUTHERLANDSHIRE FLIES. 261

running out of it, distant from Killarney about
thirty miles, afford capital sport for salmon and
sea-trout (the latter the finest, perhaps, in the
world) from about the first week in June until the
end of the season. There is good accommodation
to be had at the village of Waterville, close by the
lake, which is a noble sheet of water, eight or nine
miles in length. I strongly recommend the rivers
of Kerry to the English angler.

FOR THE SHIN. — No. 1. Body, yellow mohair,
to be ribbed with gold twist and black hackle ;
tag, yellow floss-silk tipped with gold; tail, a
small topping ; blue jay at shoulder ; wings, brown
turkey or kite tail-feather, mixed with golden
pheasant tail and neck-feathers, guinea-hen and
teal, and a topping bending over the whole ; blue
and yellow macaw feelers, and blue mohair head.
Hook, No. 6.

This is a deadly Sutherlandshire fly, particu-
larly for the Shin and Laxford. It has been to
me a plentiful purveyor of salmon. It is a model
of a subdued gaudy fly, and will prove a general
killer in rivers of moderately high water. The
salmon-fisher should never be without it.

No. 2. Body, blue floss-silk, ribbed with silver
twist ; tapering orange tag, and topping for tail ;

262 FLIES FOR THE INTER,

guinea-hen hackle wound close by the silver twist,
and thickening and lengthening up to the shoulder;
wings, a full mixture of golden pheasant tail and
neck-feathers ; guinea-hen and teal feathers, blue
and yellow long macaw feelers, and bronze pea-
cock harl head. Hook, Nos. 5 and 6.

This fly is as deadly as the latter, and better
suited for day-fishing in deep clear pools and
streams. As a general fly, I have the highest
opinion of it, and should never fail to try it
wherever I roamed, by known or unknown rivers.

No. 3. Body, orange floss - silk ; yellow tag,
tipped with silver twist; above it black ostrich
and red tag ; to be ribbed with silver tinsel and
gold twist ; grouse hackle at centre of the body ;
teal hackle under shoulder. Wings, two neck-
feathers of the golden pheasant, over which a
mixture of brown and black, and white spotted
turkey tail-feather, with fibres also of the golden
pheasant tail-feather, and brown mallard ; feelers,
blue and yellow macaw ; yellow mohair over the
roots of the wing and black ostrich head ; tail, a
golden pheasant topping. Hook, No. 4. At this
size the fly is a large one, fit for the Shin in the
spring. For the summer, it should be made on
hooks three sizes smaller, and will kill best morn-
ing and evening.

FOR THE RIVER INVER. — No. 1. Body, pale-green
floss-silk; orange tag, tipped with silver twist.

THE BRORA, AND THE OIKEL. 263

and between them black ostrich tag ; to be ribbed
with gold tinsel, silver twist, and grouse hackle ;
the wings mixed thus : — brown spotted turkey
tail-feather, peacock's wing, red ibis, teal, guinea-
hen, and silver pheasant dyed yellow ; blue and
yellow macaw feelers, and black head ; small top-
ping for tail. Hook, Nos. 6 and 7.

No. 2. Body, black floss-silk; crimson tag,
tipped with black ostrich and gold twist, ribbed
with silver tinsel and twist, and black hackle;
crimson mohair, picked out under wings, which
are to be a mixture of cream-spotted turkey tail,
guinea-hen, and teal feathers, golden pheasant
neck and tail-feathers, and two or three fibres of
bustard ; black ostrich head, and topping for tail.
Hook, Nos. 6 and 7.

FOR THE EIVER BRORA. — Body, a mixture of
blue, green, and yellow pig's hair, silver tinsel,
black hackle ; wings, peacock wing-feather ; tail,
red mohair. Hook, Nos. 7 and 8.

FOR THE OIKEL. — No. 1. Body, brick-brown
floss-silk ; red and black ostrich tag, tipped with
silver twist ; to be ribbed with silver tinsel and
gold twist ; grouse hackle full under the wings,
which are to be of the following fibres : spotted
turkey dyed yellow, brown turkey, teal, blue
macaw, red ibis, and bustard ; black ostrich head,
and topping for tail. Hook, Nos. 7 and 8.

No. 2. Body, yellow-brown pig's wool; tag,

264 FLIES FOR THE CARRON AND KIRKAIG,

black ostrich, tipped with gold twist ; to be ribbed
with gold twist ; black-red hackle over body, and
blue mohair picked out at the shoulder. Wings,
a golden pheasant neck-feather ; alongside of it
an entire teal's feather, brown spotted turkey,
guinea-hen, and wood-duck fibres ; black ostrich
head, and small topping for tail. Hook, Nos. 8
and 9.

FOR THE CARRON. — No. 1. Body, black floss-
silk ; orange tag ; ostrich and silver tip ; to be
ribbed with silver tinsel and gold twist ; grouse
hackle over body. Wings, turkey feather dyed
yellow, mallard, silver pheasant tail, guinea-hen,
teal, and Argus pheasant fibres ; black head, and
small topping for tail. Hook, Nos. 8 and 9.

No. 2. Body, black floss-silk ; orange and black
ostrich tag, tipped with silver twist ; to be ribbed
with silver twist; black heron hackle; wings,
bustard, pea-fowl, silver pheasant, and teal fea-
thers; feelers, blue and yellow macaw; black
head, and two fibres of bustard feather for tail.
Hook, No. 9.

FOR THE EIVER KiRKAia. — Body, puce mohair ;
tag, red ditto, tipped with gold twist ; to be rib-
bed with silver tinsel, black hackle, and a bit of
orange mohair picked out at the shoulder ; wings,
bittern and guinea-hen ; black head, and orange
mohair tail. Hook, No. 8.

AND FOR THE SPEY. 265

ff\it& for tl)£ §&tv*

No. 1. Body, claret floss-silk, with some deep
yellow-brown pig's hair towards the wings ; orange
and black ostrich tag-tipped with silver twist ; to
be ribbed with silver tinsel and gold twist, claret
hackle from tail to shoulder, and round the latter
grouse hackle ; wings, two golden pheasant neck-
feathers, and a topping, light-brown spotted turkey
tail and Argus pheasant, guinea-hen, and golden
pheasant tail-feathers ; over the roots of the wings
yellow mohair ; black ostrich head, and topping
for tail. Hook, No. 3. This is a large-sized
spring-fly.

No. 2. Body, puce floss-silk, to be ribbed with
gold and silver tinsel and yellow-green silk thread,
and over all one of the pendant feathers of a
brown cock's tail. Wings to lie along the back
of the hook, and they are to be made of the fibres
of a large brown spotted feather from the turkey's
tail. Hook, exceedingly long in the shank — as
long as that of a No. 1 hook, but to be finer in
the wire and smaller in the bend. A large
mackerel-hook, if well tempered, would do. This
is the old standard Spey spring-fly.

No. 3. Body, near the tail, fiery-brown floss-
silk ; towards the head, from the centre of the
body, orange floss-silk, ostrich tag tipped with
silver twist. The body to be ribbed with silver

266 ORDINARY WELSHMEN.

tinsel and gold twist, orange hackle from tag to
wings, under which blue jay hackle; wings, a
golden pheasant neck-feather, and fibres of Argus
pheasant, and slightly spotted cream-coloured
turkey tail-feathers; black head and red tail.
Hook, Nos. 4 and 5. This is a standard Spey-fly
for May and June.

JFltes.

No. 1. Body, dingy yellow mohair, with same
coloured very full hackle, and ribbed with gold
tinsel ; wings, two back or bittern neck-feathers,
tied on Tweed fashion. Hook, No. 5. The hac-
kles of Welsh flies are generally very long in the
fibre, and are wound closely, without clipping
their points, from almost the bend of the hook
upwards to the wings.

No. 2. Body, light-brown coloured mohair,
ginger hackle, gold twist and bittern feathers for
wings. Hook, No. 6.

No. 3. Body, dingy orange mohair, furnace
hackle, gold tinsel, and full mallard wings. Hook,
Nos. 5, 6, and 7.

No. 4. Body, a mixture of grey, blue, and
yellow mohair, with a long-fibred darkish blue
dun hackle struck closely from the tail up to the
wings, which are to be of light-brown spotted
turkey tail-feather ; tail, a few short bustard fea-
ther fibres. Hook, Nos. 6 and 7.

LOCAL PATTERNS FOR WALES. 267

No. 1. Body, orange pig's hair; legs, two
yellow-dun hackles, struck up from the tail to
the shoulder; wings, light brown-yellow turkey
tail-feather ; tail, a bit of red ibis, and a small
widow's crest-feather; head, orange- coloured wool.
Hook, No. 3. This fly is only fit for full water,
clearing after a flood.

No. 2. Body, turbid-orange wool ; legs, a dun
hackle, dyed the colour of the body; wings, a
light, spotted, turkey tail-feather, dyed yellow;
tail, red toucan, and brown turkey tail-feather.
Hook, No. 5.

No. 3. Body, dark orange worsted, or pig's
wool ; legs, two dark-dun hackles rolled up from
tail to shoulder, round which a yellow-green
hackle; wings, dark-brown spotted turkey tail-
feather ; tail, neck-feather of the golden pheasant
drawn in short. Hook, as before.

No. 4. Body, dark orange wool ribbed with
silver twist; legs, two grizzled- dun hackles from
tail to shoulder ; wings, two body-feathers of the
bittern; head, green peacock sword-feather, one
or two fibres of which are to be left hanging from
the butt of the wings ; tail, short red and blue
macaw feathers. Hook, No. 6.

The four following flies are great favourites in

268 WELSH FERN-FLIES.

Wales, and are known there by the name of
6 fern-flies.'

No. 1. Body, yellow worsted mixed with a
small quantity of light buff; legs, dun cock's
hackle ; wings, pea-hen's back or rump-feather,
dyed yellow ; tail, crimson worsted. Hook, No. 5.

No. 2. Body, dark buff, or salmon-coloured
wool ; legs, dun hackle, dyed olive ; wings, two
bittern feathers dyed yellow ; tail, mallard, dyed
yellow. Hook, as before.

No. 3. Body, deep yellow mixed with a little
orange worsted; legs, dun hackle, dyed yellow;
tail, grey and yellow dyed mallard-feather mixed.
Wings and hook, as before.

No. 4. Body and legs, a sooty yellow; tail,
widow's crest-feather. Wings as before, and
hook, No. 6.

The feathers for the wings of fern-flies are dyed
thus : — Dissolve in a pint of boiling water an oz.
of alum. Steep in it the feathers for three or
four hours. Boil in the same quantity of soft
water for half an hour half an oz. of fustic, and
the same quantity of turmeric. Eemove the fea-
thers from the alum-water and immerse them in
the yellow dye, and they will soon assume the re-
quired colour.

For all the northern rivers of Scotland, for the
north-western, western, and southern rivers of
Ireland, the best general fly is the one I have

THE GOLDFINCH. 269

called ONDINE. — Body, blue peacock, closely
ribbed with fine gold twist; two joints of green
trogan feather, and one of short red orange
hackle under the shoulder ; over the butts of the
wings, blue jay; small light-blue tag, gold tip,
and brilliant little topping for tail; wings, a
careful mixture of fibres of bustard, silver phea-
sant, yellow and blue macaw, teal, guinea-hen,
and golden pheasant tail and neck-feathers, sur-
mounted by a topping ; feelers, blue and yellow
macaw, and bright -blue silk head. Hook, Nos. 7
and 8.

No. 1. THE GOLDFINCH. — This is a noted
salmon-fly suited for low spring, summer, and
autumn water in the Shannon. It is a graceful
model of a gaudy fly, simple in its brilliancy. It
will kill well at Ballyshannon, and in most rivers
of dull mornings and evenings. It is too bright
for clear shallow water. It is a standard fly for
grilse-fishing in the Shannon. It is made thus :
— Body, gold-coloured floss-silk ; black silk tag,
tipped with gold tinsel ; ginger hackle and gold
tinsel over body; blue jay at the shoulder, and
kingfisher over the butts of the wings, which are
to consist of eight or nine golden pheasant
toppings of middling size. They should project

270 THE ERIN-GO-BRAGH.

by half an inch beyond the extreme bend of the
hook. Feelers, red macaw ; head, black ostrich ;
tail, golden pheasant topping. Hook, Nos. 5
and 6.

This fly may be advantageously varied, thus :
Black floss-silk for body ; tag, gold colour, tinsel
and hackle as before ; no blue jay or kingfisher's
feather, and head light puce fur. By dressing it
in this manner it will not be so gaudy as before.

No. 2. THE BRITANNIA. — Body, orange pig's
hair, ribbed with gold and silver twist; tag,
black ostrich harl; over the body a scarlet or
blood-red hackle, and a purple one at and above
the shoulder ; two toppings for tail ; wings, two
shovel-duck feathers, four toppings, a blue chat-
terer's feather each side, and outside and a little
under them some silver pheasant tail-feather;
small black head. Hook, Nos. 4 and 5.

This fly in large rivers, or in those in which
fish take large flies, I consider the best of all
general flies known to me. I do not think large
salmon will refuse it in any river in the world,
when water is high and slightly discoloured by
recent floods. As Britannia is the ruler of the
waves, this namesake of hers is a ruler of the
waters.

No. 3. THE ERIN-GO-BRAGH. — Body, very long,
like those of the large-sized natural dragon-flies,
and to be made of green floss-silk, and ribbed

SEA-TKOUT FLIES. 271

with gold tinsel and joints of green peacock harl
from tag to wings ; tag, light yellow and deep
orange silk ; over body, a dark green or black
hackle ; round the shoulder, deep orange hackle ;
wings, two toppings mixed with Argus pheasant
tail-feather, brown mallard and wood-duck, and a
very little blue jay over the butt of the wings,
which are to lie long, thin, and delicately over
the hook ; head, bronze, peacock harl ; tail, golden
pheasant topping. Hook, as long in the shank as
a No. 3, but to be of finer wire, and as small in
the bend as a No. 6 hook.

No. 1. Body, yellow floss-silk, gold tinsel, black-
red hackle, small topping for tail, blue jay at the
shoulder, a neatly mixed gaudy wing, and black
ostrich head. Hook, C Dublin, or 7 English.

No. 2. Body, blue floss-silk, blue hackle and
silver tinsel, small topping for tail, blue jay at the
shoulder, and wing and hook as before.

No. 3. Body, black mohair, black hackle, silver
tinsel, yellow tag, and small topping for tail;
yellow mohair head, picked out to hang down the
breast of the fly ; wings, two toppings, mixed with
teal and guinea-hen feathers. Hook, Nos. 7 and 8
English.

No. 4. Body, peacock harl, gold tinsel, amber

272 SEA-TROUT FLIES.

hackle and small topping for tail ; mallard wing,
and hook as before.

The best sea or white trout flies for the Kerry
rivers, and the best general flies for that amusing
fish, are those with dark bright fiery-brown bodies,
blue and fiery-brown hackles over body, gold-
coloured necks, and plain wings of brown mallard,
turkey, grouse, or landrail's wing-feather. The
two last feathers suit small flies best.

Salmon, when they refuse the fly, may be caught
by spinning with a natural or artificial fish — by
trolling, as it were, with the sand-eel, shrimp,
prawn, or a small bunch of well-scoured dew-
worms. However, the artificial fly is the only
gportsman-like lure for salmon and salmonidae.

THE COMMON TROUT DESCRIBED. 273

THE COMMON TBOUT. — Salmofario.

THE common trout in its prime is unquestionably
the handsomest and most delicately flavoured of
our river fish, and, after the salmon, the best
game the angler can pursue. It grows large or
small, differently marked, coloured, and shaped,
according to the qualities of the water it inhabits,
whether those qualities be inherent or contingent.
The Thames trout is often caught as large as the
middle-sized salmon, and is held, by the palates
of some, superior in flavour. In the small streams
of Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, the common
trout is remarkably small. In the rivers of the
English midland counties, the trout averages a
pound in weight, but throughout the trout streams
of the empire, more trout are caught under that
weight than above it. A common trout in full
season, weighing four pounds, is a royal fish ; and
a trout caught in the Dove during the drake-
season, and weighing from one pound to two, is a
princely one. If you want to see a very handsome

274 THE COMMON TROUT DESCRIBED.

dish of trout,* you will see it every day of the
year at Chatsworth, in Landseer's c Bolton Abbey
in the Olden Time.' Trout should never be taken
by the angler from September f to March. In
the intervening months they are either spawning
or out of condition. I never saw a trout in prime
season before May. In June trout are in their
best condition.

In the spring months trout are found in the
shallows and rough streams ; in the summer
months they seek deeper water, and the best fish
are then caught in pools with the fly or worm, on
gloomy breezy days, when the water's surface is
strongly ruffled. They are also found in whirl-
pools and holes into which sharps and shallows
fall, and near to locks, flood-gates, rocks, large
stones, weirs, under bridges, or between two streams

* The trout of the Wandle, particularly those of the mill-tails,
are model fish. Though thick, they are not burly, and they
convey to my mind the best idea of a brook trout. Those
that feed under the cover of trees, or lie perdus under banks or
artificial « hides ' during sunshine, are darkly brown, and yellow ;
those that frequent the unshaded streams, with clear sandy
bottoms, are of a silvery hue : they are, however, of the same
family, though one be ebon and the other pearl-hued. Night
and morning are children of day.

f In my opinion, trout should not be taken after the month
of July. Many of them then are big with spawn, and the eggs
of the earliest spawners are always the most prolific, for the
process of incubation is less injured by frost and floods, and
other winter casualties. The trout season ought to be fixed
from the 1st of April to the 1st of August.

BEST BAITS FOR TROUT. 275

running from under their arches, and likewise in
the reflux of streams where the water seems to
boil, and in the decline of summer they are to be
found near mill tails. In September they run
up to the shallow parts of streams, and enter
brooks and even ditches to spawn. As food they
are then, except in a few late rivers, good for
nothing, and are so weak that they afford the
angler no sport. In the early spring months trout
will take the worm all day long, but in the summer
months, with the usual weather, the artificial fly
is the best bait during the day hours. In the
morning and evening the worm and minnow will
kill well. Spinning the minnow in the way de-
scribed in the chapter on trolling is by far the
best way of using that bait for trout. In fishing
with a worm for trout, do not use a float, but
allow your worm to trip along a couple of inches
from the bottom of the water, your bottom-line
being shotted so as to prevent your bait from being
carried away by the stream. Sometimes spin
your worm slowly across or against the stream,
by means of a swivel on your foot-line, which
should be of the finest and best gut. As a general
rule, your tackle cannot be too fine for trout-
fishing. Keep away from the banks, make as little
noise as possible, and angle with every sort of
caution and delicate handling for trout, otherwise
you will not meet with success.

T 2

276 ANGLING WITH THE LOB-WORM.

When angling for trout with any tripping or
running baits, be they worms, caddies, gentles, or
salmon-roe, it is necessary to have as many shot
on the line, about nine inches from the hook, as
will readily sink the bait ; because, if the stream
be rapid, the bait is carried away without coming
near the ground, and consequently few trout will
take it. While thus fishing with the running line,
keep as far from the water as you can, and let the
bait be carried down into the trout haunts, and
when a fish begins to bite, do not strike the first
time you feel a slight tug, but rather slacken the
line, and when you feel one or more sharp tugs
together, then strike smartly. If it is a heavy
fish, do not be too eager to land it. To these
directions it may be added, that when a lob-worm
is used as a tripping bait, but little lead is neces-
sary on the line, the weight of the worm being
nearly sufficient, and the absence of shot or lead
advantageous. Allow the worm to roll of itself,
or rather with a little less speed than the current,
over the ground, yftiich it will do in a natural
manner if unencumbered with too much lead;
and where there are large trout this bait well
managed proves irresistible. As a general rule,
lob-worms are most adapted for deeps, and for
coloured or thick waters, and red worms or
brandlings are best for brighter waters moderately
profound. It will be found an excellent plan,

TROUT FISHING IN BRIGHT WATER. 277

when a bank overhangs a supposed trout hole, to
cast a worm over the edge of it without approach-
ing near. The line should not be shotted, the
worm should roll naturally off the bank into the
water, when, if a trout be there, your bait will be
taken almost to a certainty. Trout are to be
taken in bright water and weather, with the
worm, when they will not touch either minnow
or fly ; and there is certainly more art and sports-
manship in fishing with a worm, than some
people imagine. When to bright weather are
added clear and shallow streams, much artifice
must be employed. Your tackle must be very
fine, your hooks small, and your worms 'well
scoured and lively. A winch will enable you to
vary the length of your line as occasion dictates,
and though in general the line must be as long
as, or longer than, your rod, yet where there are
trees and other obstructions, you may, by shorten-
ing it, get at the holes, and still contrive to keep
out of sight, which you must do whether you kneel,
stoop, or stand ; and then, if you can neatly and
lightly drop in a lively brandling near the likely
holds or haunts in a strong stream, especially near
the top of it, let the sun shine ever so bright, be
the wind rough or calm, and the water ever so
clear, you will kill trout when they are not to
be caught with any other bait.

Thames trout are to be caught best by spinning

278 HOW THAMES TROUT ARE CAUGHT.

the gudgeon, dace, and bleak. In the summer
months they will take large artificial flies. The
best are Blacker's ' winged larva,' very large red
and furnace hackles, with winged flies made of a
reddish feather, and red, brown, and yellow bodies.
In the evening, like nearly all the salmonidse, they
will take artificial moths.

The salmon trout, bull trout, and white trout
or sewin, are all to be taken with small salmon
flies or lake flies; an excellent list of which I
have already given under the head of salmon.
The winged larva will be found a deadly bait for
those fish. They may be caught also with the
worm, or by spinning a small natural or artificial
fish. A very large coch-y-bonddu, ribbed with
gold or silver tinsel, is a capital bait for the white
trout or sewin.

In salmon and trout fishing, great success is
obtained by wading. The best waterproof cos-
tume for the purpose is made by Cording and Co.,
Temple Bar. Your fishing-boots for the bank
should be made by Medwin of the Regent Circus,
and your fishing-socks and ankle-boots for wading
by the Messrs. Cording. Order them similar to
' Ephemera's,' and the above tradesmen will know
what you want.

HABITS, ETC., OF THE GRAYLING. 279

THE GRAYLING. — Salmo Thymalhis.

THE grayling is one of the most gracefully-shaped
and coloured of the salmonidse. It is a favourite
fish of mine, takes a fly boldly, but does not show
much resisting courage after having taken it and
be,en hooked. It is a gamesome fish, but not a
6 game ' one. The grayling very rarely exceeds
three pounds in weight, and far greater numbers
are caught weighing under one pound than more.
They are not, like the trout, indigenous to this
country ; and very probably, on account of their
being in season in the winter, when trout are not,
and being an excellent gastronomic substitute for
that fish, they were brought from the continent to
this country by the monks, or some other good
judges of good things, that those gybarites might
not be without a fresh-water delicacy during the
most festive part of the year. The rivers of the
midland counties are more celebrated for grayling
than those of any other part of the empire. The
grayling is not found in Ireland or Scotland.

280 WHEN GRAYLING AEE IN SEASON.

Though some fancy they emit a smell of thyme, I
think they do not. They smell rather of cucumber
than of any other vegetable. Mr. Elaine says,
'The name of umbra which this fish bears has a
far better derivation than that of tkymaUus, for it
is so swift a swimmer as to disappear like a passing
shadow. Graylings are in great esteem, and their
flesh is white and palatable nearly all the year.
They are in season from September to January
(some say they are best in October, others in
December), and they cannot be dressed too soon
after they are caught. They lurk close all the
winter, and begin to be very active and to spawn
in April, or early in May ; at which time, and
during the summer, near the sides and at the tails
of sharp streams, they will take all the flies that
trout are fond of. They rise better than the
trout, and if missed several times, will still pur-
sue ; yet, although they are so sportive after the
fly, they are an inanimate fish when hooked, and
the sides of the mouth are so very tender, that
^unless nicely treated, when struck, the hold will
frequently be broken. In September they retire
in shoals to the lower end of still holes.'

I have lately received a very good account of
the grayling from Mr. Henry George of Worcester,
the very efficient secretary of an association es-
tablished in that city for the preservation of the
fish of the Severn and its' tributaries ; and I here

GRAYLING OF THE RIVER TEME. 281

willingly insert it, regretting that I have not
space to make use of his remarks touching the
trout and salmon of the Teme. Mr. George says,
' Of all rivers running through " merry England,"
I think none produce such fine grayling as the
Teme. Probably a few larger fish may be taken
in one or two other rivers which are better
protected, but for perfection in shape, colour,
and flavour none can compete with Teme gray-
ling. They are in season from September to
Candlemas, and even later; but the months of
September and October, if the weather be favour-
able, are the best for the fly-fisher. A Teme
grayling, in the height of condition, in October
or November, when first taken out of the water,
is one of the handsomest and most symmetrical
fish that rise at the fly in our beautiful streams,
and if laid upon the hand, and looked at horizon-
tally, presents the most beautiful purple or violet
hue from snout to tail. The snout is sharp, and
the eye lozenge-shaped ; this fish is hog-backed,
and the back is of a dark purple colour, with
small black square spots on the sides. The mouth
(the under part of the lower jaw) and belly touch
the ground together ; the latter is brilliantly white
with a narrow edge or lacing of gold, extending
along each side from the pectoral towards the
ventral fin, and the tail, and pectoral, and ventral
fins are of a beautiful purple. The dorsal fin,

282 GRAYLING, HAUNTS OF, AND BAITS FOR.

being very large, and standing up like that of the
perch, is a perfect picture, covered with scarlet
waves and spots intermingled with purple. The
little velvet (adipose) fin on the back, near the
tail, is also dark purple, and the fish smells like
a cucumber. At the season I am speaking of,
grayling rise freely at the fly; but it requires
some experience and judgment to suit their
tastes. The heads and tails of fords with a
gravelly or sandy bottom are their favourite
haunts. They prefer rather deep water to shallow.
The grayling takes a maggot very eagerly, and is,
I think, a much more gamesome fish at the fly
than the trout. I have frequently had them rise
at my flies a dozen times in as many successive
casts. They are not so easily alarmed as the
trout, and many a time have I made half a dozen
changes in my flies, and cast them all kinds of
ways over a fine grayling, which kept continuously
rising all the time, before I could induce him
to look at them. They are rarely ever taken with
the minnow. The grasshopper, when the water
has been for some time low and fine, is an excel-
lent bait ; and I find the artificial grasshopper
much more killing than the natural one, perhaps
from the greater facility with which it can be
used. A little red worm is also a good bait for
grayling when the water is a little disturbed.
The spawning time of the grayling is the month

SLOW GROWTH OF GRAYLING. 283

of April, sometimes a little earlier, at which season
they come on the fords, and are then easily taken
with the fly, though, of course, at such time they
ought to be strictly protected. After spawning
they retire into the deeps, and the angler sees
very little of them for a long time, and for this
reason they are supposed to be a considerable
time recovering, though I have never found them
rendered so much out of season by spawning as
some other fish. The grayling does not grow
very fast. Those spawned in spring are three or
four inches long in autumn, and in the following
autumn about four or five ounces in weight ; and
in the autumn after that, when about two and a
half years old, they weigh from eight to twelve
ounces. Grayling have been caught in the Teme,
near Ludlow, weighing four pounds a piece, though
one half that weight is rarely captured in that
river now.'

Sir Humphrey Davy says grayling grow much
faster, stating that those hatched in May or June
become in the following September and October
nine or ten inches long, and weigh from five
ounces to half a pound. The next year he says
they arrive at from twelve to fifteen inches in
length, and weigh from three-quarters to a pound.
I think Sir Humphrey wrong, and Mr. George
right. I should even think their growth is
slower than that stated by Mr. George. Grayling

284 THE SORT OF WATER GRAYLING LIKE.

require water of a milder temperature than trout
do : water of the mean temperature of the atmo-
sphere. They do not thrive in mountainous
streams, and could never stem their rapid torrents
or surmount their natural obstacles as salmon do.
They cannot bound out of the water, and never
jump at a bait after the manner of 'trout. 6The
grayling rises, however,' says Mr. Ronalds, c with
great velocity, and almost perpendicularly to
seize his prey, at the top of the water, and de-
scends as quickly after making a summerset, for
the performance of which feat, the figure of his
body, and the great dorsal fin, seem well adapted.
The following just remarks of Sir Humphrey Davy
should be attended to by the angler : — ( Besides
temperature,' he says, ' grayling require a pecu-
liar character in the disposition of the water of
rivers. They do not dwell, like trout, in rapid
shallow torrents ; nor, like char or chub, in deep
pools or lakes. They require a combination of
stream and pool ; they like a deep and still pool
for rest, and a rapid stream above, and gradually
declining shallow below, and a bottom where marl
and loam are mixed with gravel ; and they are
not found abundant except in rivers that have
these characteristics.' The largest grayling I have
ever caught I found in the somewhat deep, rapid,
and smoothly running tails of pools just before
the formation of some rough stream, and in swift

GRAYLING TAKEN IN WINTER. 285

sheets of water just above the heads of weirs. I
have killed more grayling with the fly early in
April than in any other month. The flies they
like best are duns and palmers, tipped with tinsel,
and, when the water is clear and smooth, they
will take dun midges by sinking them on a very
fine casting-line beneath the water, and allowing
them to float with the current. I have killed
grayling in the heart of winter, with frost and
snow on the ground, when the water was not
tinged wth 4 snow broth,' but ran low and clear.
The time was from twelve to two o'clock, with the
sun out, and the atmosphere tolerably temperate.
The best autumn baits for grayling are gentles
and grasshoppers. The latter is the most deadly
bait, and the way of using it has been already
mentioned in the chapter on baits.

Mr. Flinn, fishing-tackle maker of Worcester,
who is a good practical angler, recommends the
following flies for grayling. No. 1. — Wings and
legs, a small silvery blue hen's hackle-feather;
body, pale green silk or mohair, with a small
portion of orange floss silk left hanging at the tail.
Hook, from No. 10 to 14. No. 2.— Wings and
legs, a small blue hen's hackle ; body, pale yellow
with orange tag, as before. Hooks, same size.
No. 3. — Wings and legs as before, orange body
and red tag. No. 4. — Wings, the spotted feather
of the partridge tail ; body, hare's ear ; legs, par-

286 A NEW BAIT FOR GRAYLING.

tridge hackle from the back of the neck ; tail, two
fibres of the feather used for the wings ; rib with
orange or yellow silk, and for a dark day with
gold twist. This is also a famous trout fly, and,
if dressed large, will kill in lakes.

The same authority recommends the following
partly artificial and partly natural bait for gray-
ling:— the artificial portion should weigh one
pennyweight. It is to be dressed on the shank of
a No. 6 sneck-bent hook cast into lead, and covered
with light green silk, a split straw to be on either
side, ribbed with orange or yellow silk. On the
bend of the hook put a real grasshopper, its legs
clipped off at the first joints ; angle with a small
quill float, and keep the bait moving in the water,
sinking it and raising it, drawing it towards you
and allowing it to float from you.

HABITS OF THE PIKE. 287

THE PIKE. — Esox Lucius.

THE pike, commonly called jack when under three
or four pounds in weight, is a well-known fish ;
like many of us, better known than trusted or
treated. He is a greedy, unsociable, tyrannising
savage, and is hated like a Blue Beard. Every
body girds at him with spear, gaff, hook, net,
snare, and even with powder and shot. He has
not a friend in the world. The horrible gorge
hook is specially invented for the torment of his
maw. Notwithstanding, he fights his way vigor-
ously, grows into immense strength, despite his
many enemies, and lives longer than his greatest
foe, man. His voracity is unbounded ; and, like
the most accomplished corporate officers, he is
nearly omnivorous, his palate giving the prefer-
ence, however, to fish, flesh, and fowl. Dyspepsia
never interferes with his digestion ; and he pos-
sesses a quality that would have been valuable at
La Trappe — he can fast without inconvenience
for a se'nnight. He can gorge himself then to
beyond the gills without the slightest derangement
of the stomach. He is shark and ostrich combined.

288 SPAWNING AND GROWTH OF PIKE.

His body is comely to look at ; and if he could
hide his head — by no means a diminished one —
his green and silver vesture would attract many
admirers. His intemperate habits, however,
render him an object of disgust and dread. He
devours his own children; but, strange to say,
likes better (for eating) the children of his neigh-
bours. Heat spoils his appetite, cold sharpens it ;
and this very day (30th December 1846) a friend
has sent me a gormandising specimen, caught by
an armed gudgeon, amidst the ice and snow of the
Thames, near Marl ow. I envy the pike-constitution.
Jack and pike spawn either in March or April,
according to the mildness of the season and the
temperature of the water. They retire for the
purpose of procreation in pairs from the rivers,
into creeks and ditches, and there, amongst
aquatic plants, the female deposits her ova. The
male of course accompanies the female ; and when
his milt has fecundated the ova, the pair return
to deep water for the benefit of their own health,
and quite regardless of the eggs, which they have
left to be hatched by time and tide. Young pike
grow rapidly, and it is said by the end of the first
year attain a weight of two pounds. I doubt it,
and am persuaded that afterwards pike do not each
add every year a pound to its weight. They may
more than do so for a few years, but the time comes
when their growth is stationary, size varying ac-

SIZE AND DIGESTION OF PIKE. 289

cording to their good or bad condition, which is
regulated by food and the season of the year.

The largest pike I ever saw weighed thirty-four
pounds ; but I have seen several each weighing
between twenty and thirty pounds. The largest
pike recorded to have been killed in the British
Islands was one taken in the Shannon, and weigh-
ing ninty-two pounds. The head of one weighing
seventy-two pounds, and which was caught with
an artificial fly, is still to be seen at Kenmore
Castle. The celebrated Colonel Thornton asserts
that he killed a pike in Loch Alva, Scotland, that
weighed fifty pounds within two ounces. I should
consider that the largest pike in the empire are to
be found in the lakes and lochs of Ireland and
Scotland ; and that the greatest numbers are to
be found in the meres and ponds of England.
The anecdotes of pike are more numerous and as-
tonishing than those of any other of our river fish.
I do not credit many of them, I believe that pike
digest their food in a few minutes, and that in
consequence their voracity is prodigious and their
growth great. I will recount two or three re-
ported instances. In 1801, a hook baited with
a roach was set in the manor pond at Toddington,
Bedfordshire ; the next morning a large pike was
caught, which with difficulty was got out. It
appeared that a pike of three and a half pounds
weight was first caught, which was afterwards
u

290 VORACITY AND HAUNTS OF PIKE.

swallowed by another, weighing thirteen pounds
and a half, and both were taken. This story is
barely probable, for I do not see how the hook
that caught the lesser pike should afterwards
hook the larger one. It is recorded that a large
pike put into a canal full of fish destroyed them
all within twelve months, except one carp, weigh-
ing nearly ten pounds, which though too large
for the pike to swallow, showed by its scars that
he had attempted to do so. I readily believe this
anecdote. A pike caught in the Isis was found
to contain a barbel of six pounds, and a chub of
more than three. These nine pounds of food
formed nearly a third of his own proper weight,
which was thirty-one pounds and a half. I
believe this ; for I once caught in a net a pike
weighing about four pounds, from whose mouth
the tail of a trout weighing a pound was project-
ing. The pike had been caught in the purse of a
drag-net with several trout, and whilst with them
in the net had, no doubt, seized the one which
•was found sticking in his throat.

Pike are to be found in ponds, bog holes,
ditches, canals, and weedy rivers. Their best
haunts are in still, shady, and unfrequented
waters, having a sandy, clayey, or chalky bottom.
They grow larger in ponds and pools than in
open, sharp-running rivers. From May to Oc-
tober they are usually found near or amongst

DESCRIPTION OF THE PERCH. 291

flags, bulrushes, and water docks, and under the
Ranunculus aquaticus,wlieri that plant is in flower.
They are seldom found where the stream is rapid,
but a retreat in the vicinity of a whirlpool or
sharp bend is a favourite locality for them. From
March to the end of May they resort to back
waters that have direct communication with the
main stream. As winter approaches, they retire
into the deeps, under clay banks, or where bushes
impend over the water, and where stumps and
roots of trees offer them a stronghold. How
they are to be best caught I have taught in the
chapter on trolling. They may be taken with
various artificial baits, fish, frogs, mice ; but the
best of all artificial baits, save the Archi median
and flexible ones, is a large gaudy artificial fly, or
a colossal imitation of the dragon-fly.

THE PERCH. — Perca fluviatilis.

The perch is an excellent river fish, bites boldly,
and when hooked fights to the last. Though
u 2

292 BEST TIME FOR PERCH FISHING.

somewhat misshapen, his dress is handsome ; but
he seldom dresses better than in the Dutch oven
or frying-pan. Perch generally spawn in March.
They are gregarious, which is remarkable, since
fish of their marked predatory character are
generally solitary. They grow to a goodly size. I
have seen them weigh four or five pounds apiece,
and it is said that one caught in the Serpentine,
Hyde Park, weighed nine pounds. A perch that
weighs two pounds may be considered anything
but a contemptible fish. Very fine perch are
caught in the Thames from Eichmond upwards,
the largest being caught by spinning a minnow or
gudgeon. That part of the Thames which lies
between Richmond and Staines, and which is
under the useful surveillance of the Thames
Angling Preservation Society, affords capital
perch fishing. The deep streamy parts are the
best. Minnows, gudgeons, and worms are the
best baits for perch. They will also take gentles,
arid, in docks and tideways, shrimps. On the
whole, however, a good lively red worm is the
best general bait for perch. You may angle Tor
them from February to November, during which
time nearly any sort of weather, except sunny
and bright, is favourable. They bite well on
gloomy, windy days. If you light upon a shoal
of them and catch one, you may catch them all
nearly, if you do not frighten them by rough

HAUNTS OF, AND BAITS FOR, PERCH. 293

handling. Some say that, as regards the time,
the perch bites best in the latter part of the spring
from seven to eleven in the forenoon, and from
two to six in the afternoon, except in hot and
bright weather, and then from sunrise to six in
the morning, and in the evening from six to sun-
set. In tidal rivers, however, and the waters
immediately connected with them, as docks,
sluices, &c., these general rules as to biting times
do not apply ; for it is there during the flow and
ebb, when the natural food is principally on the
stir, that perch are most greedily on the look-out
for it, let the time be what it may. Perch lie about
bridges and mill-pools ; in and near locks ; about
shipping, barges, and floats of timber, in navigable
rivers, canals, and in wet docks ; in the still part
of rivers, in back waters, in deep gentle eddies ;
in ponds about sluices, and the mouths of outlets
and flood-gates, liking best sandy and gravelly
bottoms. In deep waters and in docks, I recom-
mend the paternoster-line. If you angle in docks,
deep and subject to the tide, use four hooks on
your paternoster, baiting the lowest one with a
minnow, loach, or gudgeon ; the next with a
worm, the third with a shrimp, and the fourth or
upper hook with a gentle. In fresh water a
shrimp should not be used. Perch have been
lately caught with large gaudy lake trout flies,
sunk beneath the surface of the water. Fish for

294

HABITS OF THE DACE.

perch with strong tackle, and get your prey out
of the water as quietly and with as little disturb-
ance as possible. If you fancy perch-poaching,
act as follows : — get a very large wide -mouthed
glass bottle ; half fill it with clean water, and put
a dozen lively minnows in it. Give them air by
inserting a quill, open at each end, through the
bung of the bottle, which sink in a pond, or in
the whereabouts of perch in a river. The bottled
minnows will attract perch to them. In about
twenty-four hours or more after you have laid
down your decoy, come with a paternoster-line,
baited with live minnows or small gudgeons, and
you cannot fail in capturing many of the assembled
perch.

THE DACE. — Cyprinus Leuciscus.

This little yellow silvery carp serves as a
practical primer to the young angler. He is a
reckless little fellow, and will snap at your worm,
gentle, or paste near the bottom of the water, or

BEST BAITS FOR DACE. 295

jump at your fly on the surface with equal avidity.
Dace are the best fish in the world to break in
the young fly-fisher. They spawn in April, and
are in condition again in May. They prefer the
sides and tails of streams to still water, and are
common to most of the large and small rivers of
England. They thrive best in moderate-sized
rivers. The dace of the Lea and Colne are larger
than those of the Thames. In bottom fishing for
dace, the best baits are gentles and pastes, and you
must use very fine tackle. The best artificial
flies for dace are red and black hackles, and small
ant-flies. They will take willingly the flies re-
commended for grayling. A gentle placed on
the bend of the hook will often render the artificial
fly more attractive. Dace may be caught by dib-
bing for them with the live house-fly, the flesh-fly,
and natural ant-flies. Generally speaking, dace
delight in rapid currents, scowers, and eddies.
The point of junction between two streams is a
favourite resort for them, and they are seldom
absent from mill-tails. In hot weather they re-
tire into the deeps, and seek for shelter beneath
aquatic plants and the boughs of trees. Near
London, the largest dace are to be caught in
the Colne, where they take the artificial fly well,
and afford good sport, when trout are not on the
rise. The scowers at Isleworth, Eichmond,
Thames Ditton, Hampton, Sunbury, Walton,

296 THE LONDON ANGLER'S FAVOUKITE.

Weybridge, and Laleham, are full of dace, and
the localities well adapted for the use of the
artificial fly.

THE ROACH. — Cyprinus Rutilus.

This very pretty species of carp is a great
favourite with London anglers, and by their skill
in catching it- they prove their superiority as
bottom fishers. Eoach spawn in May, and do not
get into good condition again before the autumn
months, which are the best months for angling
for them. They do not like rough streams, and
are generally found in easy swims, moderately
deep, with a fine gravelly and sandy bottom.
The best general baits for them are pastes and
gentles, though they will take small worms, and
very frequently small artificial flies. It is impos-
sible to bottom fish for roach with tackle too fine.
All of it must be light and delicate, and of the
best material — rod, line, float, and hook. The
foot-line should be made of single hairs, or at any
rate of the very finest silk-worm gut. The rod

THE SPOETING QUALITIES OF ROACH. 297

of Spanish cane, light and long, just stiff enough
to strike promptly and delicately. Some of the
London rods are too long, being from twenty to
twenty-four feet in length. A rod from sixteen
to eighteen feet is quite long enough for bank
fishing ; and one of twelve feet is sufficiently long
for punt fishing.

Mr. Elaine pays a high compliment to the
roach, saying, 'Eoach angling offers much in-
terest to the piscatory zealots, who are shut out
from the high pursuits of fly-fishing. The roach
is an elegant fish when taken, and it requires
considerable skill to deceive it, whilst its game
qualities are such that it contests the matter with
the angler to the last, so as to yield no small
triumph when landed. We have seen a roach of
a pound in weight in a strong current in the
Thames, raise the blood in the face of an angler of
fair fame. They also, when in condition, bite
freely ; but we consider the principal hold they
have, or ought to have, on the angler, is their great
plenty, the numerous methods that may be em-
ployed to take them, to which may be added the
time of the year that sport may be obtained with
them, which is when few other fish yield any.
From the very bottom of the water, every inch of
the way up to the surface, they may be fished for
in various manners ; and when they are sunning
themselves at the top they will take a fly with the

298 HOW TO ANGLE FOB ROACH.

best. No fish whatever exerts the capabilities of
the angler so extensively as this ; even the gray-
ling (whose versatility in yielding sport is great
also) must nevertheless give place to the roach,
a precedence which we think will always rank
him as a distinguished member in the piscatory
list.' For my own part, I think that if the
roach could be caught with stout tackle, there
would be an end to the rage for fishing for him.
To be obliged to catch him with a single hair line
and tender tackle, is the chief cause of all the
excitement felt by the roach- fisher.

In the autumn and winter months you should
use a very small hook, and very short in the
shank. A line very lightly shotted, and the shots
to be placed far from the bait. The link to which
the hook is whipped should be of a single long
horse-hair of a good colour, and the upper part of
the line may be of two twisted hairs, or very fine
gut. Use a neat quill float, or a very small and
light cork one. From your float to the point of
your rod, let there be as little line out as possible,
eighteen inches or two feet, and keep the point
of your rod perpendicularly over your float in the
water. Doing so will enable you to perceive the
feeblest bite, and to strike with effect. Do not
fish too close to the bottom, and ever and anon
draw your bait up to the surface of the water, and
let it sink gently again. Ground-bait moderately

THE BEST BAITS FOR ROACH. 299

with the meal ground-bait, recommended in the
chapter on baits, particularly if you are angling
with paste. With whatever bait you angle,
ground-bait with a similar substance. Captain
Williamson says, ( You will find it proper to bait
the place where you fish, with oatmeal a little
browned over the fire, and then made up into
balls with a small quantity of treacle. This draws
them together far better than any other ground-
bait I ever heard of. Throw a piece of it about
the size of a marble, now and then, where your
hook lies. It will gradually be dissolved, and
attract numbers.'

Eoach will take artificial flies, but not so well
as the dace. They like them best when tipped
with a gentle, and sunk a few inches beneath the
surface of the water. Salmon-roe is a capital
bait for roach in still waters. In the spring
months small red worms are the best baits. Then,
on the approach of summer and during it, caddies,
larvae, and bobs and grubs of all sorts. In autumn
and winter, gentles and pastes. I will conclude
with an excellent extract from Captain William-
son : — ' When the roach lie in the tide-way, you
must only expect them to bite when the flood
comes in ; especially at the first of it, when they
commonly are very keen. If there are fish in
the water, they will bite during the latter part of
the ebb. At such times they lie chiefly on the

300 THE BEST BAITS FOR ROACH.

flat gravel sands, on the sides of streams, especially
below bridges. In the evenings of very sultry
weather, when a slight shower has fallen, they
will take the common house-fly, either on the
surface or at some depth. On the whole, I think
that, next to the salmon-roe, you will have best
success with gentles, cad-baits, and blood-worms.
But, above all things, have fine tackle ; that is,
a small hook, on a well-chosen piece of superfine
gut.' In striking at roach, never use any other
motion than that of the wrist ; a slight, smart,
side motion or jerk of which will be sufficient to
cause your hook to penetrate, the barb of which
should be finely pointed, and the whole made of
the best and slightest steel wire.

BARBEL, DESCRIPTION OF.

301

THE BARBEL. — Cyprinus barbus.

This bluish-white carp is a lazy, wallowing
gentleman, and the Launcelot Grobbo of the sub-
aqueous pantries and cellars. The sound of the
smacking of his lips tells you how fond he is of a
good morsel. He acknowledges its receipt by the
best music he can make, and yet what a shame it
is that food should be thrown away upon this
rather fine, though somewhat lubberly-looking,
animal ! So it is, however, and let him swallow
good things ever so swiftly — let him be worm or
gentle-crammed — his flesh is never the better for
it, and his muscular tissues remain so flaccid and
all his fibres so flabby, even whilst noting in the

302 HABITS OF BARBEL.

midst of abundance, that, if incontinently after-
wards caught and slain, a coroner's jury should
judge the cause of death on view of the body,
they would pronounce it to be inanition, or the
want of the common necessaries of life. He is
one of those ungrateful creatures that always
shame their nurses. His great angling value is
his obstinacy, which gives him strength, notwith-
standing the morbid appearances of the muscles,
and he will resist your efforts to tow him out of
the water with exciting energy. His large fins
give him great power in the water, and he works
heavily with them to get away when hooked,
making them tread and beat the water like the
paddles of a slow steamer.

Barbel spawn about midsummer, and are soon
again as well as ever. July, August, and Sep-
tember are the best months to angle for them.
Their general haunts are the deep parts of rapid
rivers. They very seldom seek the shallow streams.
They are generally in company, and, wherever you
catch one, you may expect to catch two or more.
They lurk under the shelter of overhanging banks,
and, by their great power in stemming the stream,
they are able to place themselves in the best posi-
tions for seizing displaced insects or small fish ;
for, though they will not, it is supposed, seize on
live fish or other animals, they are considered
greedily carnivorous — dead carcases of; all sorts

ACTION OF THE LEGER-LINE. 303

being devoured by them. They delight in deeps,
weed-beds, in hollows surrounded by shelving
sides, in the strong, deep currents of bridges ; and
piles, weirs, and locks are favourite resorts of
theirs. They chiefly feed during the night, and
you cannot, in fine summer weather, angle too
early or too late, for them.

The lob-worm is the best bait for barbel ; next,
gentles, prepared greaves, and cheese and bullock's
brains and pith. The latter are autumn and early
winter baits. The most amusing and successful
way of angling for barbel in the best rivers for
them, such as the Thames and the Trent, is with
the leger-line. The leger-lead should not be a
perforated, flat piece of lead, but a perforated
bullet, placed between two knots on the bottom-
line, about two feet from the hook. The knots
should be an inch or two apart, and the piece of
line between them should be of strong gimp,
which will resist better than gut the attrition of
the constantly moving bullet. The bullet enables
you to cast your bait to any reasonable distance,
and, when it sinks to the bottom, it keeps rocking
there to the motion of the water, and the hole in
it allows the worm to work away a little and
wreath itself about, so that the bait is continually
in attractive action. When the barbel takes it
and moves off with it, he gets checked by the
resistance to the bullet of the upper knot on the

304 DESCRIPTION OF THE CHUB.

line ; you feel the check — strike sharply, and you
cannot well fail in striking the leather-mouthed
fish. Play him with moderate force, according to
his size and the strength of your tackle, and, as
soon as circumstances will permit you to get his
head out of water, do so. That deadens the play
of his fins, and enables you to bring him over and
into the landing-net. If you wish to catch punt-
wells of barbel, ground-bait plentifully the spots
you angle at for three or four nights previously.
If you angle with worms, ground-bait with worms;
if with gentles, ground-bait with them.

THE CHUB. — Cyprinus CepJialus.

This silvery bluish carp is an exceedingly fine,
splendid- looking fish ; but in him is fully realised
the proverb, 6 All is not gold that glitters.' His
burnished gold outside hides a miserable interior.
He is neither fish, flesh, nor good red herring. He
is, to all intents and purposes, save in appearance,

BEST BAITS FOR CHUB. 305

what the French call him, un vilain, that is, a
downright chaw-bacon or clod-hopper. Though
Mr A. Soyer, of the Eeform Club, should con-
descend to dress him, I doubt whether he would
make him fit to appear at any dinner-table.

This fair outside and foul inside beauty spawns
in April, and is soon in its usual condition. In
the summer and autumn months it will take very
wantonly artificial flies, large red hackles, and
large palmers of different colours. In the evening
it can be readily seduced by artificial moths. Its
angling value rests on its occasional fondness for
artificial insects. I have caught dozens of them
in a few hours with large red and furnace hackles.
They are very fond of imitations of the humble
bee and large blow-fly. In dibbing for them, use
the grasshopper, cockchafer, and small butterflies.
In bottom-fishing for them use worms; but in
the hot months they are fondest of gentles and
prepared cheese. They will also take pastes and
salmon-roe with great gusto. In rivers that breed
the lamprey that species of eel will be found a
very deadly bait for chub and trout. Salmon
will take it also. Put the lamprey on your hook
as you would a worm. Fish without a float, with
a No. 3 hook and salmon gut, one duck shot
to be placed on the gut, about a foot from the
hook. The bait is to be worked with the current,
and sometimes slowly across and against it at

306 BAD OPINION OF THE CAKP.

mid-water and lower. They are an exceedingly
wary fish, therefore never let them see you or
anything belonging to you through the water —
veluti in speculum. They are cowardly fish, and
after a rolling round or two give in.

THE CARP. — Cyprinus Carpio.

The yellowish olive carp stands at the head of
a very numerous family, giving, in my opinion, no
very honourable name to them. They are just as
bad a race as the salmon tribe are excellent. If
they are of Saxon descent, they are very inferior
to our worst Celtic Salmonidce. They happily
eschew the mountain streams of the Gael, Celt,
and ancient Briton. The Dutch waters of our
low lands suit their burly bodies best. Neither I
nor any one else' can tell you how to catch satis-
factorily with the angle the paterfamilias of the

TACKLE AND BAITS FOR CARP. 307

carp ; he is so sly, and nibbles in such a namby-
pamby way, that he strips the hook of its bait
mouse-like. The angler that can catch large
carp, Captain Williamson says, 'must possess
several qualifications extremely valuable to the
angler, and bids fair by general practice to be,
according to the old saying, able to teach his
master.' All I can tell you is, that you must
fish for the carp proper with as fine tackle as you
use for the roach, and at the same time it must
be stronger, for carp grow to salmon size. The
baits are worms, larvae, grains, pastes, green gentles,
and green peas. A sweet paste is perhaps the
best. The angling season for carp is from Febru-
ary to October. In stagnant waters they are
found in the deepest parts during the spring and
autumn, particularly near flood-gates through
which water is received and let off. In summer
they frequent weed-beds and aquatic plants, and
in rivers they are generally found in the still
deeps having oozy bottoms, with rushes, reeds,
and so forth. Worms are the best baits in spring;
gentles and pastes in the summer and autumn. A
Huntingdonshire correspondent once wrote to me,
that he had a pond well stored with very large
carp, and that after seven years' patience with
line, rod, and hook, he could not catch one of
them. He asked my advice. I told him that it
lay in a net.

x 2

308 BEST BAITS FOR TENCH.

THE TENCH. — Cyprinus Tinea.

This mucous blackish olive carp inhabits waters
stagnant on a loamy, clayey soil, with a soft muddy
bottom. The best baits for tench are red worms,
gentles, pastes, caddies, larvae of all kinds, such
as flag- worms, wasp-grubs, and caterpillars. They
will also take water and garden snails. Fish close
to the bottom, but not on it, particularly if it is
a soft, muddy one. Captain Williamson says,
6 Tench do not swallow a bait very quickly,
sometimes holding it in their mouths for a while,
therefore give them good time, and let them either
keep the float down, or, as is often the case, let
them rise with the bait, so as to lay your float on
the water. This is an excellent sign, and war-
rants your striking, but rather gently, lest the
fish be only sucking the bait, for he will seldom
return after it is drawn from his mouth.' The
best time for angling for tench is early and late
of mornings and evenings; but they bite freely
and all day long during the fall of mild rain in

HABITS OF THE BREAM.

309

warm weather. The tench is said to be an aquatic
apothecary — a leech that cures with its slime the
wounds of other fish. The pike in consequence
respects this submarine Machaon. Gratitude,
therefore, is the pike's one virtue, linked with a
thousand crimes.

THE BHEAM. — Cyprinus Brama.

This broad olivaceous carp grows to a very
large size in such rivers as the Ouse and the
Oundle. Bream are an exceedingly coarse fish,
but they bite freely in warm, gloomy, windy
weather, and a warm, drizzling rain sharpens their
appetites. A small red worm is the best bait for
them in the spring ; in summer, gentles and sal-
mon-roe. They rise freely at natural flies, par-
ticularly the house-fly, bluebottle, and stone-fly,
and in the evening at the various sorts of moths.

310 MERITS OF THE GUDGEON.

You must dip for them as cautiously as for chub,
keeping carefully out of sight. In bottom-fishing
your success will be augmented by ground-baiting
with lumps of clay mixed with clotted bullock's
blood.

SM|

THE GUDGEON.

This is a good, game little fish, and the best to
initiate the young angler into the art of bottom-
fishing. The best bait is a very small red worm
or a part of one. Hundreds of them are to be
caught in the moderately shallow streams of the
Thames, and indeed in the shallows of all our
mixed rivers. By a mixed river I mean one that
is not confined to the production of the salmon
tribe, but which produces the carp family and
other coarse fish. If you can .mud the bottom,
that is, cause an artificial discolouration in the
water by means of an iron rake, or any other way.

PARTING WORDS. 311

you will draw to the spot most of the gudgeon in
the immediate vicinity, and very probably kill the
majority of them. You must then move to another
spot, and repeat the artificial discolouration of the
water, as before. Mudding the water is the grand
secret of success in gudgeon angling.

One word of advice in this penultimate page to
the reader. Let him put in practice one maxim
which I wish I had always done, viz. that of Dr.
Warburton — c repetition is the soul of instruc-
tion.' Whenever he finds on a first perusal, any
passage of the preceding pages obscure, let him
re-peruse it attentively, and I flatter myself the
obscurity will disappear. If it do not, let him
try a third time, and if then a difficulty remain,
the fault most probably will be mine. Still the
reader will have done well, for having persevered.
In like manner, should anything I teach seem at
•first difficult to be practised well, let reiterated
attempts be made towards the attainment of per-
fection, and I am confident that the result of
repetition will be surprise that a thing found,
after some little patient practice, of such easy
accomplishment, should ever have been considered
otherwise.

This light labour of mine is on the point of
ceasing. I may now write — finis coronat opus,
whether with a complaisant thought or not, none,
save myself, can know. I have finished with the

312 PARTINa WORDS.

gudgeon, though in angling regularity, I ought
to have concluded with the salmon. But a moral
may be drawn from my proceeding. What man
begins with he ends with — childishness. The
childish passion of gudgeon-angling may return
to the true angler when he has ' fallen into the
lean and slippered pantaloon,' and it will do so,
if it be true that ' the ruling passion is strong in
death.'

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INDEX.

ACTON'S Modern Cookery 28

ALCOCK'S Residence in J apa.n 23

ALLIES on Formation of Christendom 20

Alpine Guide (The) 23

ALTHAUS on Medical Electricity 14

ANDREWS'S Life of Oliver Cromwell 5

ARNOLD'S Manual of English Literature .. 7

ARNOTT'S Elements of Physics 11

Arundines Cami 26

Autumn Holidays of a Country Parson .... 9

AYRK'S Treasury of Bible Knowledge 20

BACON'S Essays, by WHATELY 6

Life and Letters, by SPED DING .. 5

Works, edited by SPEDDING 6

BAIN'S Logic, Deductive and Inductive 10

Mental and Moral Science 10

on the Emotions and Will 10

on the Senses and Intellect 10

on the Study of Character 10

BALL'S Alpine Guide 23

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