«o Air««n iHJi "
• OF CAlirORNIA o
« SANTA BAMARA "
>
^
i
3
In
• iO A»V«n 3Hi "»
O THE lIBIiARY OF o
1
r #^-
r"
>
r
t-
OB
1
i:
K
.• YINlOilTV? JO O
e THE UfiflARY OF
Oft
05
ES^
n
• yiN»o<no io
e OF CAIIFORN1A s
/
.» io Aimran aw •
o ADSiaAtNO 3HI O
o dO AaVSBIl 3H1 »
A HANDBOOK OF FLORIDA
A HANDBOOK OF FLORIDA
CHARLES LEDYARD NORTON
liJ^^m^
WITH FORTY-NINE 0R.PS AND PLANS
NEW YORK
LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.
15 EAST SIXTEENTH STREET
1891
COPTKIGHT, 1891, BY
CHARLES LEDYARD NORTON
TROWS
ING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY,
p
UNIVERSITY ^.-^ ....^IFORNIA
SAiNTA BARBARA
JN U
NOTE.
The right and title to " The Florida Annual," of which
four editions have been published, has been purchased, and
the present Handbook is designed to ijreserve its best feat-
ures in a new form.
PREFACE.
The first section of the Handbook i^roper is devoted to
sketches of the several counties, with maps compiled from
the best attainable authorities. In the context the different
railroad lines crossing the counties are given, with tables
of stations and distances, so that, if desired, the different
routes can be followed from county to county. Take, for in-
stance, Eoute 40, p. 183, Jacksonville to Palatka. The railway
passes through Duval, Clay, and Putnam Counties. Descrip-
tions of the counties with their respective maps are alpha-
betically aiTanged, beginning at page 1. On page 25 are
stations and distances in Duval County, on page 16 those in
Clay County, and on page 82 those in Putnam County, so
that the movement of the train can be followed from one
map to another throughout the journey. Distances are
given in both directions as indicated by arrows at the sides
of the tables. The frequent establishment of new stations
and the discontinuance of old ones may account for discrep-
ancies between the maps and current time-tables. In future
editions these will be corrected as rapidly as jDossible.
In the other sections travelling routes are described in
general and in detail, with as much accuracy as possible iin-
der the changing conditions of a country where, a few years
ago, railroads were unknown.
The general plan divides the State into five sections, as
Vni PREFACE.
follows : The Atlantic Coast (p. 103) ; The Gulf Coast (p.
228) ; Middle or Iiil-.md Florida (p. 273) ; Subtropical
Florida (p. 309) ; West Florida (p. 329). Under these again,
the towns and places of special interest are designated as
numbered routes covering the principal resorts and lines of
travel as they exist. Much information of value to intend-
ing settlers, as well as to tourists, will be found throughout
the volume. This is especially true in consideration of the
county maps, which have never before been published to-
gether in such convenient shape.
Reference to the table of contents, i>-p. ix to xii, will
facilitate the finding of any particular route or locality.
Hotel rates, the usual prices for saddle-horses, carriages,
boats, guides, etc., are in the main the result of personal ex-
perience, or from answers to letters of inquiry. Such rates,
however, are always variable, with, in general, an upward
tendency.
The editor will be grateful for the correction of any er-
rors, or for information that may increase the value of fu-
ture editions.
C. L. N.
15 East Sixteenth Street, New York,
November, 181)0.
CONTENTS.
[In order to permit the introductiou of new routes in future
editions of the Handbook, -without disturbing the general arrange-
ment, tlie routes are numbered deciimMy. Tluis Jacksonville is
10; Fernandifia, 20; St. Augustine, 30 ; while the intermediate
numbers, 11, 22, 35, etc., are assigned to routes subordinate to,
and more or less connected with, each central point of interest.]
PAGE.
Introductory Matter, Hints to Travellers, etc xiii
Paragraph History of Florida xx
Counties and County Maps.
Alachua County 1
Baker County 6
Bradford County 7
Brevard County 9
Calhoun County 11
Citrus County 13
Clay County 14
Dade County , 19
De Soto County 21
Duval County 23
Escambia County 27
Franklin County , 29
Gadsden County 31
Hamilton County 32
Hernando County 34
Hillsborough County , 36
Holms County 39
Jackson County 40
Jefferson County 42
Lafayette County 43
Lake County 45
Lee County 49
Leon County .* 51
Levy County , 54
Liberty County 55
Madison County 57
Manatee County 59
Marion County Gl
X CONTKNTS.
PAOE
Monroe County 04
Nassau County 65
Orange County 68
Osceola County 71
Pasco County 74
Polk County 76
Putnam County 80
Saint Jolin's County 82
Sumter County 85
Santa Rosa County 88
Suwannee County 89
Taylor County 93
Volusia County 94
Wakulla Coun'ty 98
Walton County" 100
Washington County 101
I. The Atlantic Coast.
KOUTE PAOE
10. Jacksonville 103
11. Jacksonville to St. Augustine and return 110
12. Jacksonville to Fernandina and return Ill
13. Jacksonville to Mayport and return 112
14. Jacksonville to Pablo Beach and return 114
15. Jacksonville to Green Cove Springs and return 115
16. Jacksonville to Fort George Island and return 115
17. The Lower St. John's River and Domenique de Gonrgues 117
20. Fernandina 127
21. Amelia Island 130
22. Amelia River 130
23. Nassau Sound 131
24. Cumberland Sound 131
30. St. Augustine 133
31. Anastasia Island 175
33. Matanzas River and Inlet 178
34. St. Augustine to Jacksonville 183
35. St. Augustine to Palatka 182
38. Jacksonville to Palatka by rail 183
39. Jacksonville to Palatka by river 184
40- Green Cove Springs 187
50. Palatka 188
51. Lake George 190
52. The Fi-uitland Peninsula 191
53. Crescent Lake 191
51. Seville 193
55. Palatka to Sauford by rail 193
56. Palatka to Sanford by river 194
60. Sanford '. 196
CONTENTS. XI
ROUTE PAGE
01. De Land 198
02. Lake Helen 199
70. Davtona 200
71. Ormond 202
72. Halifax River 202
80. New Smyrna 20B
81. Ponce Park and Mosqnito Inlet 207
90. The Indian River 210
91. Titusville 213
92. Rockledge 214
93. Melbourne 215
94. Jupiter Inlet 216
95. Jupiter Inlet to Lake Wortli 221
100. Lake Wortli 222
101. The Sea Coast South of Lake Worth 220
II. The Gulp Coast.
110. Fernandina to Cedar Key 229
111. Cedar Key 229
120. Jacksonville to Homosassa 233
121. Homosassa 233
130. The Pinellas Peninsula 236
131. Tarpon Springs 237
132. Clearwater Harbor 243
133. St. Petersburg 247
140. Tampa 249
141. Port Tampa 251
142. The Manatee River 252
150. Charlotte Harbor 254
151. Punta Gorda 256
152. St. James-on-the-Gulf (Pine Island) 259
153. Punta Rassa and Tarpon Fishing 261
154. The Caloosa River 205
155. Fort Mvers 267
156. Lake Okeechobee 269
157. The Everglades 270
158. Naples 271
III. Middle Florida.
160. Sanford to Tampa Bay and Port Tampa 275
161. Winter Park 276
162. Orlando 278
163. Kissimmee 279
164. Lakeland 280
165. Bartow 281
166. Plant City , . . .^ 282
\ii CONTENTS.
ROUTE PAGE
170. Jackson vi lie to Ocala 282
171. Inteilachen 28^^
172. Citra 284
173. OaiiK'Sville ;ind The Land Office 288
174. Jacksonville to Leesburg 290
1 7~). Micanopy and the Seminole Wars 291
180. Ocala 294
181. The Oklawaha 296
182. Silver Spring 299
183. Blue Spring 301
184. Dunellon 302
185. Lake Weir 304
190. Leesburg 305
IV. Subtropical Florida.
200. Biscavne Bay 810
201. The Florida Reefs 315
202. Key West 323
V. West Florida.
210. Jacksonville to River Jirnction : 331
211. Macolenny , 334
212. Olustee 334
213. Lake City 338
214. Live Oak 339
215. Madison 339
216. Monticello 340
220. Tallahassee 342
221. The Wakulla Spring 347
222. St Marks 349
223. Quincv 350
224. Chattahoochee 351
230. River Junction to Peusacola 352
231. Ii[arianna 353
232. De Funiak Springs 354
233. Milton 355
240. Peusacola 355
250. The Gulf Coast of West Florida 365
Miscellaneous Information : Oranges, Lemons, Limes,
Citrons, Grape Fruit, Pineapple 368
Native Races of Florida 372
Seminole Words, etc 373
Average Temperature 377
Rainfall, etc , in Florida 378
Population 378
The Game Laws of Florida 379
FLORIDA.
Thk State of Florida, owing to its semi-tropical climate,
and its remarkable natiaral attractions, is recognized as the
most favored winter sauitorium and pleasure resort of Amer-
icans. Especially is this true of those who reside so far
North that they are certain to be more or less incommoded
by protracted cold.
The Florida Season. — As soon as the weather begins to be
wintry and disagreeable in the North it begins to be pleasant
in Florida. Although the fashionable season does not open
until after Christmas, invalids or others desiring to avoid
the first approaches of cold can always find comfortable ac-
commodations near the princiijal places of resort. The lead-
ing hotels usually open in January and close in May, and the
travelling facilities are at their best during that i^eriod.
Kailroads.
New York is the natural starting point for travellers from
the Northern Atlantic States and Canada. Through tickets
without change of cars to St. Augustine and the other prin-
cijial resorts in Florida can be procured at any general rail-
way office.
The Atlantic Coast Line is the shortest. Time, New York
to Jacksonville, twenty-four to thirty-six hours. Vestibuled
trains are run through from New York.
There are three ordinary express trains daily each way be-
tween New York and Jacksonville during the winter season.
The vestibuled trains are made up of drawing-room cars
XIV OCHAN ROUTES.
with electric lights, libraries, dining-rooms, smoking-rooms,
bath, and all the luxuries of a modern hotel.
The direct route passes through Philadelphia, Pa., Wil-
mington, Del., Baltimore, Md., Washington, D. C, Pkich-
mond, Va., Wilmington, N. C, Charleston, S. C, and Sa-
vannah, Ga., to Jacksonville and St. Augustine.
S/. Louis, Louisville, and Cincinnati are the three points of
departure from the Northern Central gi'oup of States. From
these cities frequent trains run either to Pensacola or Jack-
sonville, or direct to New Orleans, whence communication
with the Florida railroad system is constant and easy.
Ocean Routes.
The journey to Florida may be pleasantly varied by mak-
ing part of the trijj by sea, as indicated in the following list
of steamship lines.
Tlie Ch/de Steamship Comjyani/, Pier 27 East River, office
No. 5 Bowling Green. Tri-weekly steamers to Jacksonville
(time, about three days). Monthly schedules are issued,
giving dates and hours of sailing. All these steamers touch
at Charleston, S. C.
The Mallory I/tne, Pier 20 East River, New York, de-
spatches a steamer once a week to Fernandina, but little
more than one hour's ride to Jacksonville (about three
days at sea).
77^6 Ocean Steamship Conqxint/, Pier 25 East River, New
York. Steamers once a week from Boston, New York, and
Philadelphia (the latter freight only), to Savannah, Ga., five
hours from Jacksonville (about forty-eight hours at sea).
The Old Dominion Line, Pier 26 North River, New Y''ork.
Tri-weekly steamers to Norfolk and Richmond, Va. (about
twenty-four hours at sea), thence twenty-two hours by rail
to Jacksonville.
HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. XV
Hints to Travellers.
Outfit. Woollen undergarments, shirts, and hosiery of light
or medium thickness, according to individual temi^erament,
are best. Camels' hair, or some of the so-called unshrinkable
flannels are preferable. There are days in every month when
thin outer clothing, suitable for summer wear, is desirable,
but, in general, clothing of medium thickness is not uncom-
fortable. Moderately warm wraps, overcoats, and rugs are
indispensable, and mackintoshes or other waterproofs are
recommended. For men soft felt hats arc best for general
use, but sun-helmets of cork, pith, or duck are convenient
for warm weather. Straw or jDalmetto hats can always be
purchased in Florida. If much walking is anticipated high
shoes are desirable, as deep sand cannot always be avoided.
For men leggings of leather or canvas are recommended as
a protection against the tangled " scrub " and its living
inhabitants, especially the " red bugs " and wood-ticks that
frequent the undergrowth. During the winter months
snakes are rarely encountered. Leggings are also conveni-
ent for riding, and are very generally used by tourists and
sportsmen.
All the articles specified can be purchased in St. Augus-
tine or Jacksonville, at a slight advance upon New York
prices, and most of them can be found in any of the larger
towns
The normal clear, winter weather of Florida is i^erfect for
out-of-door life, but seasons differ greatly. "While summer
is usually the rainy season there are occasional variations from
the regular order. Sometimes there are rainy winters, and
every season brings its "northers," when a cold wind blows,
sometimes for several days in succession, and fires and warm
clothing are in demand. "With a limited amount of luggage
it is often inconvenient to carry a full supply of thick under-
wear, therefore it is suggested that these sudden changes of
temperature be met by donning two suits of light underwear
at once.
Railway travel in Florida is unavoidably dusty in fair
\veather, the di;st being of that i)enetrating (Quality that ren-
xvi HINTS TO TJIAVKLLERS.
clers its perfect exclusion from cars wellnigh impossible.
Dusters are not pretty to look at, but they add greatly to tlie
comfort of travel, and any anti-dust contrivances in the way
of caps, neckerchiefs, and the like will be found equally con-
venient.
Camp Outfit. Two woollen blankets, army size ; one sewn
together at bottom and along two edges, to form a sleeping-
bag, and the other left unsewu, for use in warm weather,
^5.00 ; one rubber j)oncho, $^1.00 ; one suit of oil-skin cloth-
ing, coat and trousers, §3.50 ; one perfectly water-tight
match-box (a tightly corked, large-mouthed vial is perhai)s
best) ten cents ; one pocket or watch-chain compass. This is
indispensable in Florida, for in cloudy weather there is noth-
ing to steer by in the piny woods, and the watercourses are
often so tortuous that bearings are easily lost, fifty cents
upward; one mosquito net. Florida hunters use "cheese-
cloth," as that is jDroof against sand-flies while the ordinaiy
netting is not. The foregoing list covers essentials only.
The aggregate cost need not exceed $12.00
Shooting Outfit. Guns according to preference, since every
sportsman has his favorite. A light 32 or -i-i calibre rifle
will be found very convenient. Game of all kinds has been
shot at so much since the introduction of breech-loaders
that it has become very wild. The rifle can often be used
with good results when shot-guns are useless.
For shot, Nos. 9 and 4 with a supply of buckshot for large
game, and a few long-range cartridges have been found to
serve well for general shooting.
Fishing Outfit. An ordinary bass-rod, reel, and line is best
for general purposes. Common metallic spinners or spoons
are used for trolling. Florida fishes handle trolling gear
rather roughly, and *' phantom minnows " and the like are
apt to come to grief. For general pui-jioses, Limerick hooks,
ringed and bent, are as good as any. A supply of gut-snelled
hooks is desirable for use in the perfectly clear waters of
certain streams, but in general linen snells are best. The
most useful sizes of hooks range from 610 downward, though,
of course, for the heavy weights the larger sizes are neces-
sary. Sinkers must be provided and floats are often useful.
HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. xvii
Special tackle for tarpon and kingfisli is described under
Eoute 82.
Money. A list of towns having banks or bankers is given
below. A supjjly of silver quarter-dollars and of nickel five-
cent pieces will be found convenient, as small change is apt
to be scarce away from tlie larger cities. A stock of one
dollar bills is jireferable to those of larger denominations
since the weighty and inconvenient silver dollar is in
Florida almost invariably tendered in change.
Baxks. '
Apopka, Oranse Conntv.— Bank of Apopka.
Bartow, Polk Conuty.— Polk County Bank.
Brooks\'ille, Hernando County. — Bank of BrooksvUIe (not incorporated).
Daytoua, Volusia County. — Bank of Da.^tona.
De Laud Volus:a County. — F. S. Goodrich.
Enstis, Orange County.— Bishop Bros.
Fernandina, Nassau County. — Bank of Femandina.
Gainsville. Alachua County.— First National Bank. H. F. Button & Co.
Interlachen, Putnam County. — Taylor A Warren.
Jacksonville, Duval County. — First National Bank. The Florida Savinss
Bank. National Bank of Jacksonville. National Bank, State of Florida.
State Bank of Florida (not incorporated). Ambler, Marvin & Stockton.
Key West, Monroe County. — Bank of Key West. John White Bank.
Kissinimee, Osceola County. — Kissimmee Citv Bank.
Lake City, Columbia County.— N. S. Collins & Co.
Lakeland, Polk County. — L J. J. Nleuwenkamp.
Leesburs, Sumter County. — Morrison, Stapylton & Co. Yager Bros.
Ocala, Marion County.— The Buffum Loan &; Trust Co. First National Bank.
Orlando, Orange Coiinty.— National Bank of Orlando. Orlando Loan & Sav-
ings Bank.
Palatka. Putnam County.— First National Bank.
Pensacola. Escambia County. — First National Bank of Pensacola. Mer-
chants' Bank. F. C. Brent & Co.
Punta Gorda, De Soto County.
Sanford. Orange County. — First National Bank.
Seville. Volusia County. — Bank of SeviiA^.
St. Augustine, St. Johns County. — First National Bank.
Stanton, Marion County.— The Buffum Loan A Tniet Co.
Tallahassee, Leon County. — B. C. Lewis A Son.
Tampa, Hillsboro County.— First National Bank of Tampa.
Tarpon Springs. — Bank of Tarpon Springs.
Tavares, Lake County. — Bank of Tavares (not incorporated).
Titusville, Brevard County. — Indian River Bank.
Travelling ExpenRes. Individual tastes and habits of ne-
cessity govern daily expenses. Lawful rates by rail in
Florida are 3 cents a mile on the main lines, and 4 and 5 cents
a mile on branches and local roads. If the traveller fi-e-
quents the most expensive hotels his daily bills will be from
S3 to .?5 a day, or even more, exclu.sive of "tips," but in
Xviii HINTS TO TKAVELLEKS.
most of the resorts comfortable quarters can be found at
lower rates, say $2 a clay, or §8 to 810 a week. With reason-
able economy So a day should be a fair average, covering all
strictly travelling expenses, and leaving something to spare
for emergencies. It is earnestly recommended that travel-
lers give only reasonable fees to attendants. In all respect-
able hotels they are paid good wages and excessive fees tend
to lower their sense of duty. Small fees of five or ten cents,
given on the spot for services rendered, secure better attend-
ance, and are less demoralizing to the recipient than large
fees postponed till the hour of departure.
In the height of the season it is well to telegraph in ad-
vance for rooms. If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel an
itemized bill should be called for at least once a week, since
errors can be most easily corrected when fresh in mind.
The final bill should be called for several hours in advance
of departure — the night before in case of an early morning
start. This gives time for the inevitable discussion conse-
quent upon the discovery of actual or supiDOsed mistakes.
In many of the small hotels away from the principal re-
sorts, bathing facilities are very primitive, if not wanting al-
together. A pair of bathing mittens carried in a waterproof
sponge-bag, so that they can be packed away even when wet,
has been found an untold luxiiry under such conditions ;
and in the same category may be mentioned a cake of soap
in a flannel bag of its own (not waterproofed). Such a liag
is far better than the ordinary travellers' soap-box, in which
the soap rapidly deteriorates when not 2)''^cked away in a
perfectly dry state.
Biding and Driving. The ordinary Florida road is not
well adapted for pleasure driving, but there are certain sec-
tions of the State, as in Marion County, where a carriage may
be driven for many miles at a moderate pace through the
open woods. Elsewhere, in sections where clay predomi-
nates, as in Gadsden and Leon Counties, the roads are excel-
lent, save in wet weather. Near the coast, too, there are shell-
roads of admirable smoothness. This is notably the case at
Fort George Island, Duval County, in the vicinity of Jack-
sonville, and near New Smvrna. Finallv. the ocean beaches
HINTS TO TRAVELLKRS. xix
from Fernantliiia south to Cape Canaveral are, as a rule,
23erfect in all respects for driving or wheeling. The only
drawback is that for an hour or two every day when the tide
is at full flood the tinest part of the driveway is under
water.
Equestrians will find passably good saddle-horses at very
reasonable rates almost everywhere in the State. Eiding
tlirough the woods is always enjoyable, and a gallop on the
beaches referred to above is exhilarating beyond descrip-
tion.
Walking Trips. Extended pedestrian excursions are not
likely to be undertaken in Florida, or, if undertaken, are not
likely to be repeated. Several weighty reasons are against
them. The distance from one place of interest to another is
usually too great to be covered on foot in a day. The coun-
try roads are always sandy, save in rare instances, and the
scenery is, as a rule, very monotonous. From many of the
resorts pleasant Vt'alks may be taken through the woods or
along the beaches. Often the walking is easy and the
ground reasonably clear of undergrowth in the pine woods
as well as in the hammocks, but where the saw palmetto is
found progress is always difficult. No stranger should ven-
ture into Florida woods without a compass. None of the
signs known to Northern woodsmen hold good here, and
bearings are very easily lost, particularly under a cloudy sky
or when night is coming on.
All i3edestrians in Florida will sooner or later form the
acquaintance of the "red bug," an insect almost invisible
as to size, but gigantic in his power of annoyance. High
boots or tight leggings, afford some protection, but a salt-
water bath (natural or artificial) or rubbing with alcohol
or ammonia immediately on reaching home is asi;re prevent-
ive of ill effects.
XX PAUA(iUAPH lilSTOllY OF FLORIDA.
Pjirjigraph History of Florida.
1497. The English claim to priority of discovei*y is based
on the following passage in Sebastian Cabot's narrative :
"Despairing to find the passage I turned back again, and
sailed down by the coast of land toward the equinoctial fever
with the intent to find the said passage to India), and came
to that part of this firm land which is now called Florida,
where my victuals failing, I departed from thence and re-
turned into England." During the same year, according
to Francisco Adolpho de Varuhagen, Americus Vespucius
coasted the whole peninsula.
1500-1502. Gaspar Corte-Eeal, probably a Spanish trader,
furnished data from which was traced the first approximately
correct outline of the North American coast, clearly indi-
cating the Floridian peninsula (Cantino's map, Lisbon, 1502,
now preserved in the Biblioteca Estense, at Modeua, Italy).
1513. March 27. Easter Sunday (Pascua Florida, in
Spanish) Juan Ponce de Leon sighted the coast near St.
Augustine, and named it in honor of the day.'
1513. April 2. He landed in 30° 8' north latitude, prob-
ably near Fernandina.
1513. April 8. He took formal possession in the name of
the King of Spain.
1516. Diego Miruelo, a pilot and trader, discovered a bay,
probably Pensacola, which long bore his name on Spanish
maps. Ponce de Leon made a second voyage of discovery,
but was driven oflf by the natives, who killed several of his
men.
1517. February. Francis Hernandez de Cordova, while
on a slave-hunting expedition, landed at some unidentified
place on the west coast of Florida. His men were attacked
by the natives and driven off. De Cordova himself was fa-
tally wounded.
1519. Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda discovers the coast in the
' The year 1512 is usually given as the date of this diBCOvery. Justin Winsor,
Vcl. n., cites official documents proving that 1513 is the correct dat?.
PARAGRAPH HISTORY oF FLORIDA. xxi
vicinity of Peusacola, and proves that Florida is not an
island.
1521. February or March. Ponce de Leon, commissioned
as governor " of the Island Florida," landed at some point
i:)robably not far from St. Augiistiue, and attempted to take
possession. He was fatally wounded in a fight with the na-
tives, and the settlement was abandoned.
Francisco Gordillo and Pedro de Quexos, sent out by
Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon, discovered a large river and named
it St. John the Baptist. They kidnapped about seventy of the
friendly natives, and earned them away. TJiese Indians
were subsequently retui'ned to their homes.
1525. Pedro de Quexos returned, by order of Ayllon,
regained the good-will of the Indians, and explored the
coast for two hundred and fifty leagues, setting up stone"
crosses bearing the name of Charles V. of Spain, and the
date of taking possession.
1528. April 14. Pamphilo de Narvaez with a fleet of five
vessels, containing four hundred men and eighty horses,
landed in Bahia de la Cruz (perhaps Clearwater Harbor).
The fleet was sent along the coast, while the army marched
inland and perished, all save four, who escaped after eight
years of cajitivity.
1539. May 25. Hernando de Soto reached Tampa Bay,
and named it Esj^iritu Santo. His force was five hundred
and seventy men, with two hundred and twenty-three horses
and a comjilete outfit. He mai-ched northward and westward,
treating the Indians, friend and foe alike, with cruel treachery
and violence. Passing beyond the present boundaries of
Florida he discovered the Mississippi River, where he died
and was buried beneath its waters.
1549. June 25. Father Luis Canca de Barbastro, in
charge of a missionary exiiedition, landed near Clearwater
Harbor, and was killed by the Indians with four of his asso-
ciates.
1559. July 1. Tristan de Luna y Arellano, with one
thousand five hundred soldiers and settlers, landed in Ichuse
(Santa Rosa) Bay. A hurricane almost destroyed his fleet,
on Sejitember 19th. Explorations Avere undertaken, but re-
xxii i'AIlAGKAl'H IIISTOKY OF FLORIDA.
suited iu no discoveries of importance. Mutinies followed
among the troops, and eventually the settlement was aban-
doned.
15G2. May 1. Jean Bibaut, a French Huguenot, with a
colony of the same faith, entered the St. John's Kiver, re-
named it La RiviLve do Mai, and erected a stone monument
bearing the arms of France. No attemjjt at permanent set-
tlement was made at this time.
15(54:. June 22. Rene de Laudonniere, a French Hugue-
not, discovered the harbor of St. Augustine and named it La
Riviere des Dau2)hines.
1564. July. Fort Caroline built by the French, i)rob-
ably at St. John's Bluflf, near the mouth of the " River of
May" (St. John's).
■ 1565. August 3. Sir John Hawkins entered the river,
relieved the wants of the French colony, and told Laudon-
niere of an intended Spanish attack.
1565. August 28. Pedro Meuendez d'Aviles, with a
strong Spanish fleet, reached the coast north of Cape Canav-
eral.
1565. August 28. He discovered St. Augustine harbor
and named it after Aurelius Augustinus, Bishop of Hippo.
1565. August 28. Ribaut reached the St. John's with re-
enforcements for the French.
1565. September i. Menendez arrived at the St. John's
River and prepared to give battle to the French, who put to
sea, pursued by the Sjianiards.
1565. September 5. Menendez returned to find that
more French ships had arrived. He retreated to St. Augus-
tine and, finding the natives friendly, founded the city on
its present site, the oldest in the United States.
1565. September 8. Menendez landed the greater part
of his force and took formal possession of St. Augustine in
the name of the King of Spain.
1565. September 10. Ribaut's fleet wrecked in a hurri-
cane near Canaveral.
1565. September 29. Menendez received the surrender
of an advance party of the French who survived the wreck
of their fleet at Matanzas Inlet, and put 111 of them to
PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxiii
death. Sixteen wlio i^rofessed to be Catholic^ were spared,
at the intercession of the Spanish chaplain.
1565. September 30. Meuendez, having marched over-
land with 500 men, surprised and put to death the Freucli
garrison at Fort Caroline. A few escaped, including Lau-
donniere, the commander.
1565. October 1. Laudonniere and the survivors of the
massacre escaped to sea in two small vessels.
1565. October 10. Ribaut, with the rest of the surviv-
ing French, reached Matanzas. About half of them sur-
rendered and were put to death. The rest retreated to Ca-
naveral and built a fort.
1565. November 8. Menendez attacked the French at
Canaveral. Most of them surrendered and were spared.
1565-66. (Winter.) The French survivors who had es-
caped to the woods incited the Indians to attack Fort Caro-
line, which the Spaniards had renamed San Mateo.
1566. March 20. Menendez returned to St. Augustine
from a voyage, quelled a mutiny with difficulty, relieved San
Mateo, reorganized the garrisons, and sailed for Sjjain, which
he reached in July.
1568. April. Domenique de Gourgues, with the avowed
intention of avenging the massacre at Matanzas, captured
the Spanish forts on the St. John's River, hanged the surviv-
ors of the fight, and destroyed the fortification.
1568-1586. European interest in Florida languished.
Settlements were sustained mainly through the personal ef-
forts of Menendez.
1586. Sir Francis Drake, the English freebooter, at-
tacked St. Augustine. The Spaniards fled, offering scarcely
any resistance, and the place was burned. After Drake's de-
jiarture the people returned and began to rebuild the town.
1593. Twelve Franciscan missionaries were distributed
among the Indians on the east coast.
1598. The Franciscan missionaries were nearly all killed
by the Indians.
1612-13. Thirty-one Franciscans sent from Spain,
Florida constituted a Religious Province of the Order, and
named St. Helena.
Xxiv I'AKACJllAPH inSTOKV OF FLORIDA.
1638. War between Spanish colonists and tlie Apalachee
tribe, resulting in the subjugation of the Indians.
1605. St. Augustine pillaged by English freebooters un-
der Captain John Davis. Tiie Spaniards made little or no re-
sistance.
165.5. The hereditary governorship of the Menendez fam-
ily terminated, and was succeeded by Diego de Eebeilado,
as Captain-General.
1(J75. Don Juan Hita de Salacar became Captain-General.
1680. Don Juan Marquez Cabrera became Captain-Gen-
eral.
1678. The commandant of St. Augustine sent out a suc-
cessful expedition against the English and Scotch settlements
near Port Royal.
1687. A large consignment of negro slaves brought to
Florida by one De Aila.
1681. The Governor (Cabrera) attempted to remove sev-
eral Indian tribes to the islands on the coast. Hostilities
followed, many Christian Indians were killed and others
carried away as slaves.
1696. Under authority of the Viceroy of New Spain a
settlement was made at Pensacola, and Fort Charles was
built.
1702. September and October. Governor Moore of South
Carolina laid siege to St. Augustine, by land and sea. The
town was occujsied and burned, but the castle (the present
Fort Marion) held out. Two Spanish vessels appeared and
Governor Moore withdrew, losing his transports.
1703-4. Governor Moore sent an expedition into MvJdle
Florida mainly directed against the Indians friendly to Spain.
He destroyed several towns and carried off many Indians to
slavery, at the same time defeating the Spaniards under Don
Juan Mexia, who came to the aid of their Indian allies.
1708. Colonel Barnwell of South Carolina invaded Mid-
dle Florida and raided through the Alachua country east-
ward to the St. John's River. About the same time Captain
T. Nairn of the same forces penetrated to the head waters
of the St. John's, and possibly to the Okeechobee region,
bringing back a number of slaves.
PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. XXV
1718. March. Fort San Marcos cle Apalacbe erected at
St. Mark's by Spaniards under authority of the Governor of
St. Augustine. About the same time the French estab-
lished Fort Crevecoeur at St. Joseph's Bay, but soon aban-
doned it and the Spaniards took possession.
1718. May 14. The French under Bienville, the com-
mandant at Mobile, attacked the Spaniards at Pensacola,
and mainly by stratagem captured the entire garrison, who
were sent to Havana in accordance with a promise made be-
fore the surrender.
1718. Two Spanish ships appeared off Pensacola, and
after a brief bombardment received the surrender of the
French commander. The fortifications were at once strongly
garrisoned, and an im successful attack was made on the
French, who still held Dauphin Island.
1719. September 18. After a series of actions the Span-
ish at Pensacola surrendered to the combined land and
naval forces of the French under Desnade de Ohampsmelin.
Pensacola was destroyed and abandoned, and the cajitured
Spaniards were taken to France as prisoners of war.
1722. Pensacola reocciapied by the Spaniards on declara-
tion of peace, and the town rebuilt on Santa Rosa Isl-
and.
1727. Colonel Palmer of South Carolina, after certain un-
successful negotiations with the Spanish authorities in Flor-
ida, made a descent upon the northern part of the jarovince,
and with the aid of Indian allies hari'ied the whole country
to the gates of St. Augustine, capturing many slaves and
driving off much live stock.
1736. Spain formally claimed all territory south of St.
Helena Sound, as part of her Floridian jjossessions, and
warned England to withdraw her colonists. Futile negotia-
tions followed.
1739. October. AVar declared between England and
Spain, because of alleged encroachments by both parties in
the provinces of Georgia and Florida. Governor Oglethorpe
of Georgia, having already prepared a force, at once invaded
the disputed territory.
1739. December. A detachment of OgletlioiiDe's men
X.wi rAllACJUAI'll UISTOIIY OF FLUmDA.
attacked Fort Poppa on the St. John's Uiver, opposite Pico-
lata, but were repulsed by tlie Spaniards.
1740. Jaiinaiy. Fort at Picolata captured by the Eng-
lish.
1710. Juue 20 till July 7. Siege of St. Augustine by
the English under Major-Geueral James Edward Oglethovjie,
Governor of Georgia. The defence was successfully con-
ducted by a Spanish garrison of 750 men under Don Manuel
de Monteano.
1742. July 5. Monteano led an expedition against Ogle-
thorpe, sailing from St. Augustine. He was repulsed after
having forced the English to abandon their first position.
1743. March, General OglethoriDe invaded Florida, and
surprised the garrison of St. Augustine, killing some forty
men before they could gain the citadel. Oglethorpe with-
drew, not being prepared to conduct a siege.
1748. Suspension of hostilities by treaty between Great
Britain and Spain.
1750. As the result of a tribal quarrel among the Creek
Indians in Georgia, Secoftee, a noted chief of the tribe,
headed a movement for secession, and with a large number
cf followers settled in tlie Alachua country, Florida. These
Indians became known as Semiuoles, i.e., seceders, out-
laws.
1762. Hostilities renewed between Spain and Great Brit-
ain. The English capture Havana.
1763. February 10. By treaty Great Britain and Sjiain
effected an exchange of Cuba for Florida, and the English
at once took possession of Florida, and General James Grant
was appointed Governor.
1765. The " King's Road," constructed from St. Augus-
tine to the St. Mary's River.
1766. Forty families emigrated from Bermuda to Mos-
quito Inlet.
1767. Colony of 1.500 Minorcans cstablislied by Dr. Turn-
bull at Mosquito Inlet (New Smyrna).
1776. Colony at New Smyrna broken up because of al-
leged harsh treatment.
1774. In view of the disaffectiau of the northern colonies
PARAGRAPH HISTORY OP FLORIDA. XXVli
isendiiig the war for Independence, immigration of loyalists
was encouraged from Georgia and the Caroliuas. A consid-
erable number settled near St. Augustine.
1775. August. An American privateer captured the
British supply ship Betsey, off the harbor of St. Augustine,
iu sight of the British garrison.
1778. Nearly 7,000 loyalists moved into Florida from
Georgia and the Oarolinas.
1779. September. Hostilities resumed between Spain
and Great Britain.
1780. Sixty -one jsrominent South Carolinians sent to St.
Augustine by the British authorities as i^risoners of State.
1781. March — May. The Sijaniards tinder Don Bernardo
de Galvez, with a naval force under Admiral Solana, invested
Pensacola, which was defended by about 1,000 English under
General Oami)bell. A chance explosion of a magazine com-
pelled the surrender of the English, who caijitulated on
honorable terms to a largely superior force.
1783. Colonel Devereaux, a loyalist fugitive from Caro-
lina, sailed from St. Augustine with two privateers and cap-
tured the Bahama Islands, then held by the Spaniards.
They have ever since remained under the British flag.
1783. September 3. Independence of the American col-
onies— not including Florida, which had taken no part in the
struggle — acknowledged by Great Britain. Upon this
Florida was ceded back to Si)ain, Great Britain retaining the
Bahamas. English subjects were allowed eighteen months to
move their effects. The crown transported most of them to
England, the Bahamas, and Nova Scotia.
1784. Zespedez, the new Spanish governor, arrived at St.
Augustine and took possession.
1795. Spain receded West Florida (Louisiana) to France.
1811. In view of probable war with England the United
States Congress resolved to seize Florida in order to prevent
the English from taking possession.
1812. March 17. A number of persons styling themselves
" patriots " met at St. Mary's and organized the Republic of
Florida. Aided by United States gunboats they took pos-
session of Fernandina, elected a governor, and shortly after-
xxviii PAKACRArn history of Florida.
ward niarclied upon St. Augustine, but were repulsed.
The United States soon withdrew its open support, but the
"patriots" continued towage war on their own resjionsi-
bility, aided by American volunteers.
1814. August. A British force under Colonel Nichols oc-
cni)ied Pensacola with the consent of the Simnish comman-
dant and hoisted the British flag.
1814. November 14. Pensacola captured by United
States forces under General Andrew Jackson. The English,
presumably with Spanish connivance, built and armed a
fort at the mouth of the Apalachicola River and garrisoned
it with Indians and negroes.
1816. August. The fort on the Apalachicola was attacked
by a combined force of Americans and friendly Indians
under Colonel Clinch, and captured after one of the maga-
zines had been exploded by a hot shot. During this time
Florida was in a state of anarchy, and Indian forays into
Georgia were frequent.
1818. April 7. General Jackson, with a force of Ameri-
cans, severely chastised the Florida Indians, capturing a
formidable fort at St. Marks.
1818. May 25. Pensacola, which had been reoccupied by
the Spaniards, surrendered to General Jackson by the Span-
ish after slight resistance.
1819. February 22. Florida ceded by Spain to the
United States.
1821. February 19. Treaty of cession formally rati-
fied.
1821. July 10. The Spanish flag hauled down and the
United States flag hoisted in its place at St. Augustine. A
like ceremony took place at Pensacola on July 21st.
1822. March 30. By act of Congress Florida was made
a territory of the United States, and organized as such.
1822. June. The first legislative coimcil met at Pen-
sacola and created four counties : Escambia, Jackson, St.
John's, and Duval.
1823. September 18. Treaty of Fort Moultrie made with
the Indians, inducing them to confine themselves to a reser-
vation.
PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxix
1823. October. Tallahassee selected as the territorial
capital.
1823-1835. Settlers began to press into Florida and en-
croach upon Indian reservations. Treaties were made and
set aside looking to the removal of the Indians.
1834. April 12. Proclamation by the President pursuant
to treaty finally adopted, directing the removal ofthe Senii-
noles west of the Mississippi.
1835. Autumn. Friendly Indians murdered by those
who were disposed to resist the execution of the President's
jiroclamation.
1835. December 25. The Seminoles made a descent
upon New Smyrna, burned all the houses, and laid waste
the plantations. Having been forewarned, the inhabitants
escajjed.
1835. December 28. Osceola, the Seminole chief, way-
laid and killed General Thompson, the Indian Commissioner,
at Fort King, with several companions. On the same day
the command of Major Dade, U.S.A., 110 strong, was am-
buscaded and massacred by Indians, under Chief Micanopy,
near Dragem Junction, Sumter County. Four soldiers
feigned death and escaped, three of them reaching Tampa
Bay. Thus began the Seminole War, which lasted seven
years.
1835. December 31. United States troops under Gen-
eral Clinch defeated the Indians near the scene of Dade's
massacre, of which event they were at the time unaware.
1836. February 27 — March 6. United States trooijs under
General Gaines attacked by a large force of Indians while
attempting to ford the Withlacoochee Eiver. The troops
intrenched themselves, and were besieged for several days,
with constant fighting, until their provisions were nearly ex-
hausted, when they were relieved by General Clinch.
1836. June 9. Indians threatened the stockade at Mican-
opy. United States forces under Major Heileman marched
out and routed them after a sharp fight.
1836. Aiigust 11. Major Pierce attacked Osceola's band
of Micosukee Indians near Fort Drane, and routed them.
1836. November 21. Colonel (late Major) Pierce drove a
XXX I'AUAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA.
large force of Indians into the Walioo swamp, but no de-
cisive victory could be gained, owing to the impenetrable
nature of the morass.
1837. January 20. A detachment, -marching to Jupiter
Inlet from the head of the St. John's River, found Indians
strongly posted on the banks of the Loeohatchee. After at-
tacking and dispersing the Indians a stockade (Fort Jupiter)
was constructed near the inlet.
1837. January 27. Engagement near Hatcheelustee Creek.
The Indians were routed and driven into Great Cypress Swamp.
1837. February 8. Intrenched camp on Lake Munroe at-
tacked at night by a large force of Seminoles. The Indians
were repulsed with heavy loss.
1837. March 6. Treaty of capitulation signed by Gen-
eral Thomas S. Jessup and Seminole chiefs at Fort Dade.
A large number of Seminoles nominally surrendered at this
time ; the influence of Osceola and the warlike faction
proved too strong, and by the end of the summer hostilities
were resumed.
1837. October 12. Osceola and seventy-one of his band
seized by order of General Jessup and confined as prisoners
of war.
1837. December 25. Colonel Zachary Taylor, with a
strong detachment, following the main body of the Seminoles
southward, overtook them on the shore of Lake Okeechobee.
After a stubborn fight, lasting several hours, the Indians fled.
Taylor lost one-tenth of his men in killed and wounded.
This action terminated concerted resistance on the part of
the Indians. After this they fought in small parties.
1838. March 22. Colonel Twiggs captured 513 Indians
and 165 negroes near Fort Jupiter.
1839. May. A council with the Seminole chiefs resulted
in an official declaration of peace.
1839. July. The Indians, without warning, resumed lios-
tilities in all parts of the State. Colonel Harney's command
was nearly exterminated at Charlotte Harbor by an over-
whelming force of Indians.
1840. August 7. Government station on Indian Key de-
stroyed by a war party of Indians. Dr. Perrine killed.
PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxxi
1840. December. Colonel Hamey conducted an expedi-
tion througli the Everglades. During tlie year the Indians
adopted the plan of raiding with small jaarties and the whole
State was harried by these bands.
1841. May 31. Colonel, afterward General, William J.
Worth was given command of the United States forces in
Florida. He inaugurated a summer campaign which proved
eftective. The Indians were, during the winter of 1841-42,
either captured, killed, or driven into the most inaccessible
swamps.
1842. April 19 — August 14. The Seminole War was de-
clared at an end. The surviving Indians were removed to
Arkansas, with the exception of about 360, who were tacitly
allowed to remain in the Everglades.
1845. March 3. Florida admitted to the Union as a
State.
1861. January 6. United States Arsenal at Chattahoochee
seized by Florida State troops.
1861. Januaiy 7. Fort Marion, St. Augustine, seized by
State troops (see p. 151). Fort Clinch, Fernandina, occuj)ied
the same day.
1861. January 10. Ordinance of secession adopted by the
convention assembled at Tallahassee.
1861. January 10. United States trooijs transferred from
Barrancas Barracks to Fort Pickens, Pensacola Harbor.
1861. January 12. All United States property on the
mainland, including the Navy Yard and Forts Barrancas and
McBae, seized by Florida State troops, the commandant
of the Navy Yard with his men being held as prisoners.
1861. Januaiy 12. Formal demand made for the sur-
render of Fort Pickens to Florida State troops.
1861. January 14. Fort Taylor, Key West, garrisoned by
United States troops.
1861. January 18. Fort Jefferson, Tortugas, garrisoned
by United States troops.
1861. April 12-17. Fort Pickens reinforced.
1861. August 6. The blockade-runner Alvarado burned
off Fernandina.
1861. November 22. Fort Pickens (Pensacola) opens fire
XXxii PAUAORAPII HISTORY OF FLORIDA.
upon the Con federate batteries on the mainland. An artil-
lery duel continued all day,
1862. January 16. Naval attack upon Cedar Key.
1862. March 3. Amelia Island evacuated by the Confed-
erates, and (March 4) occupied by Federals,
1862. March 11. Jacksonville occupied by Federal forces.
1862. March 14. Brigadier- General James H. Trapier,
C.S.A., assigned to the command of Middle and East Florida.
1862. March 17. Colonel W. 8. Dilworth assigned to the
command of Florida, vice Trapier, transferred,
1862, March 23, New Smyrna i:)artly destroyed by Fed-
erals.
1862. April 8. Brigadier-General Joseph Finegan,
C.S.A., assigned to the command of Confederate forces in
Florida.
1862. April 9. Jacksonville evacuated by the Federal
troops.
1862, April 10. Skirmish near Fernandina.
1862. October 4. Jacksonville again occupied by the
Federals and shortly afterward abandoned,
1863, March 10. Jacksonville occupied by Federals,
1863. March 31. Jacksonville evacuated by Federals.
1864. February 7. Jacksonville reoccupied by Federals,
1864, February 20. Battle of Olustee. Defeat of the
Federals,
1865. October 28. End of the Civil War, Ordinance of
secession rej^ealed, after which a civil government under the
supervision of a military governor (General John Pope) was
temporarily established.
1868. July 41 The fourteenth amendment to the Con-
stitution of the United States having been adopted, with a
new State constitution, Florida was readmitted to the Union
and military supervision withdrawn.
1889, June. Discovery of highly valuable phosphate
beds at Dunellon, Marion County, followed by similar dis-
coveries in dift'erent parts of the State.
Alachua County.
Area, 1,260 sq. m.— Lat. 29" 25' to 29° 55' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 59' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 22,929.— Pop. (1880), 16,462.— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,193,000.
— County seat, Gainesville.
The name is of Indian origin, pronounced al-latch-u-ah,
with the accent on the second syllable. Probably, however,
the Indian pronunciation accentuated the last syllable.
The name was originally given to a remarkable chasm in
the earth near Gainesville (see map), and is said to mean lit-
erally " the big jug without a bottom;" but there is prob-
ably a conveyed meaning to the Seminole ear implying, " the
place where the waters go down." The settlement of this
region by whites was effected by the agents of Fernando de
la Maza Arredondo, an enterprising Spanish merchant of
Havana. Messrs. Dexter and Wanton, under his authority
and led by the accounts given by Indians of the high roll-
ing lands, rich soil, heavy forests, and abundant lakes and
streams, penetrated to the vicinity of Gainesville and there
established a trading-post. The Indian accounts proved
true, and Arredondo obtained a Spanish grant of about
289,645 English acres — rather more than one-quarter of the
present county of Alachua. The exact date of the original
settlement cannot be ascertained, but it was no doubt prior
to the beginning of the present century, when the whole
interior of Florida was an unexplored wilderness, and the
discoverer of a fertile tract had only to ask for a grant in
order to secure what was then regarded as a clear title from
the Spanish crown.
Alachua is classed in the United States Government re-
ports as in the long-leaf pine region. It contains, however,
tracts of oak and hickory, hammocks and prairies. The
eastern part of the county, at the point of highest elevation,
is 250 feet above tide-water ; the western part about 70 feet.
Near the Levy county line is a range of sand-hills, 120 feet
above tide-water. The Cedar Key Eailroad crosses this
range between Archer and Bronson. Along the Santa Fe
and Suwannee Rivers the underlying limestone frequent-
ly crops out, forming picturesque and precipitous banks.
2 ALACHUA COUNTY.
crowned with rich hammock. From northwest to south-
east, crossing the county, is an irregularly detached belt of
fine hammock lands, the substratum of which is the peculiar
disintegrated limestone of this region. Oaks, hickoiy, gum
trees, bay, magnolia, beech, maple, and other hard woods
grow here in great luxuriance, although along this belt the
rock is but thinly covered with soil. The total area of ham-
mock land is about 2.440 acres. It is of two grades, " black
hammock," with a sandy loam soil, brown or blackish iu
color, and nearly a foot deep; and "gray hammock," with
a lighter soil and higher percentage of sand, underlaid with
sand or sand-rock.
The Suwannee River and its tributary the Santa Fe define
the western and northern boundaries of the county. The
first named is navigable for steamers throughout this section
of its course, and the second as far as Fort White, about eight
miles above the confluence of the two streams. In the west-
em jjart of the county are countless small lakes and ponds,
most of them deep and well supplied with fish. They are
connected by natural water-courses, sometimes on the siu'-
face, sometimes subterranean, and curious natural wells and
"sinks" are of frequent occurrence. These wells are usu-
ally perjiendicular shafts, three or four feet in diameter, de-
scending through solid limestone rock to a depth of thirty
or forty feet. Water strongly imjiregnated with lime is
found in most of them, but some are dry and may be ex-
plored.
This part of the county is sparsely settled as comparetL
with the eastern, especially the southeastern section. This,
however, renders it the more attractive for sportsmen and
campers. Large game has been hunted off in the more
thickly settled portions of the county, but deer and turkey
are to be found within easy driving distance of almost any
of the towns west of Gainesville, and the ordinary game
birds are reasonably abundant everywhere.
Large lakes are found in the eastern and especially in thj
southeastern portion of the county. Of these South Pond
and Santa Fo Lake are joined by a canal, and are navi-f-able
for launches and small steamboats. Orange Lake, which
4 ALACHUA COUXTY.
bounds the county at its southeastern corner, is an irregular
body of water, the largest in the county, but shallow and
overgrown with aquatic vegetation. In the season, these
shallow lakes, are frequented by water-fowl.
The remarkably open character of the woods at once
impresses the observant traveller. The scrub palmetto is
wholly absent over large tracts, and one may ride or drive
comfortably for miles through a virgin forest without a sign
of a wagon road or of a human habitation.
Among the crops that are successfully cultivated in Alachua
are artichokes, beans, beets, cabbages, celery, cucumbers,
egg-jilant, lettuce, okra, onions, parsnips, peas, jiotatoes
(Irish and sweet), pumpkins, radishes, squashes, tomatoes,
turnips, arrow-root, barley, castor beans, cassava, chufas,
koouti, corn, cotton, pea-nuts, melons, millet, oats, rice, rye,
sorghum, sugar-cane, tobacco, and wheat. Oranges are
grown successfully whenever facilities for transportation
render it possible to market the crop to advantage. Peaches
of the Pientau and other early varieties are cultivated ; the
Leconte pear is a profitable crop, and strawberries in veiy
large quantities are shipped to the North during January,
February, and March.
The Florida Southern Railway (J., T. & K. "W. system) en-
ters the county from the westward, Palatka being the nearest
station of importance. The stations next and within the
county are :
27. . . .Cones Crossing {Putnam Co.) 45
I 29....Colgrove 43 E
31... Hawthorne ' 41 a
Di8t.fr. 32.... Constantino's Mill 40 i Dist.fr.
Palatka. I 3.5 ... Grove Park 3T Ocala.
V 40....RGchelle''' 32
W 45 Mi canopy Jc 2T |
47 Evinston {Levy Co.) 24
' Crosses F. C. &. P. Ey. (see p. 5).
2 Gainesville Br. (see below). For continuation of this Une to Ocala, Lees-
burg, etc., sec p. G3.
Gainesville Branch (J., T. & K. "W. .system) :
I 37....Eochelle' 8 E
Di8t.fr. 1 41. ...Sink 4 a Dist. fr.
Palatka. V 42. ...Oliver Park 3 i Gainesville.
W 45.... Gainesville 2. 0
' Connects with main line (see above).
' Connects with S. F. & W. Ry. (see p. 5), and Cedar Key Division F. C. &
P. (see p. 5).
ALACHUA COUNTY. 5
The main line of the Florida Central & Peninsula Railway
enters the county from the northeast after crossing Santa
Fe River. The stations next and within the county are :
Dlst. fr.
Jackson-
viUe.
79 Hampton {Bradford Co.) 51
85 ... . Waldo ' 45
90 Orange Heights 40
94....Campville 36
99. . . .Hawthorne = 31
106 Lochloosa 24
109 .... Island Grove 21
112....Citra {Lecy Co.) 18
Dist. fr.
Ocala.
> Cedar Key Branch, F. C. & P. (see below).
2 Crosses Gainesville Branch, J., T. & K. W. For continuation of this line to
Ocala, see p. 63 ; to Jacksonville, p. 9.
Cedar Key Division, F. C. & P., crosses the county south-
westerly from Waldo, where it leaves the main line.
0... Waldo 70
; 6 . . . Fairbanks 64 N E
14 Gainesville' 56 a
18. .. Hammock Ridge 52 Dist.
20... Arredondo 59 fr. Cedar
21 Kanapaha 49 Key.
V 24.... Palme:- 46 j
SW 29. ...Archer 41 |
38 Bronson (Levy Co.) 32
' Connects with Gainesville Branch, J., T. & K. W. (see p. 4), and with
Gainesville Division, S. F. & W. (see below). For continuation southwest to
Cedar Key, see p. 55 ; northeast to Jacksonville, Fernandina, etc., see p. 9.
Diet. fr.
Waldo.
The Gaine.sville Division, 8. F. & W. Ry., runs northeast
from Gainesville to Lake City Junction, Columbia County.
The stations are :
0 Gainesville ' 36
TkJof f, I 11 Hague 25 SE y.. . ,
Gaines- I 16 . . . . Newnansville 20 a LakeCitV
Gaines ^ 23 .... High Springs 13 l^akeCity
vine. -^y^ 33.... Fort White 3 | '''=•
36 Lake City Jc. (Co^Mmftia Co.). . . . 0
' For continuation northwest, see p. 17. For connectione at Gainesville, see
map.
BAKER COUNTY.
Baker County.
Area, 500 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 10' to 30" 25' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 30' W.— Popula-
tion (1890). 3.312.— ReKistered vote (1889), 651.— Pop. (1880), 2,312.— Aasessed
valuation (1888), $544,308.— County seat, McClenny.
The northern part of this county is within the limits of
the great Okeefenokee Swamp, which extends to the nortli-
BAKER COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
■ward across the Georgia State line. This portion of the
county is liardly habitable, but is rich in standing timber
which is rafted down the tributaries of the St. Mary's River
BAKER COUNTY— BRADFORD COUNTY. 7
to tide-water and a market, or else finds its way to the Florida
Central & Peninsula Railway Company's stations in the
southern tier of townships. The southern part of the county
is moderately high pine land, with sandy soil. The j^rinci-
pal shipments are turpentine and lumber, with an increas-
ing quantity of peaches and vegetables.
Near the southwestern corner of the county there took
place the most considerable engagement that occurred
within the State during the Civil War.
The Western Division of the Florida Central & Penin-
sula Railway crosses east and west near the southern border.
The stations next to and within the couutv are :
19. ..Baldwin (Dwi'aZ Co.) 186 E
I 2S....McClenny 177 a
Dist. ' 30 .... Glen St. Mary 175 i
fr. Jackson- ' 37 Sanderson 168 j
villa. 39.... Pendleton 166 |
V 47....01sutee 153 ;
W 52. . . .Mt. Carrie {Columbia Co.) 153
Dist. fr.
River Jc.
Bradford County.
Area, 550 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 10' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 40' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 7,502.— Registered vote (1889), 1,370.— Pop. (1880), 6,167.— Highest
elevation, 210 ft. (Trail Ridge).— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,124,763.— County
seat, Starke.
Bradford County is classified in the long-leaf pine region.
The best land is gently rolling, with sandy loam, well suited
for the cultivation of cotton, corn, vegetables, fruits, and
rice. The most fertile land is found along the lakes and
water-courses — mainly in the southern and eastern sections.
Second class is for the most part a yellow sandy loam, covered
with pine forests. It is capable, however, of producing fair
crops of oats, itc, and barley. The third-class land is sandy
and low, covered with scrub palmetto and underlaid with
a compact "hard pan." Cypress ponds abound in the east-
ern and northeastern sections, and, besides their timber, af-
ford valuable beds of muck, readily available for fertilizing
jDurjioses.
Swift's Creek, Olustee Creek, New River, and Samson
River are tributaries of the Santa Fe, which in turn flows
through the Suwannee to the Gulf of Mexico. These streams
8 IiUAI)F<JHI) COUNTY.
are all available for raftiug purposes, and many of them
aflford good mill-sites. The more considerable lakes are
South Prong Pond, one of the sources of Olustee Creek (200
acres) ; Swift Creek Pond (700 acres), Lake Butler (700
acres), Samson Lake (2,200 acresj, Crosby Lake (800 acres),
Eowell Lake (800 acres). At the southeastern comer, be-
tween Bradford and Alachua Counties is Santa Fe Lake, the
source of the river of that name, 137 feet above the sea. It
is the largest body of water adjacent to the county, some
eight miles long with its connections, and aftbrding water
transportation to "Waldo, a railroad station near the head of
the South Pond.
The main line of the Florida Central Jc Peninsula Railway
BRADFORD COUNTY— BREVARD COUNTY. 9
crosses N.X.E. and S.S.W. in the eastern tier of town-
ships. The stations next to and within the county are :
61. . . .Highland {Clay Co.) 69
I 66....Lawtev 64 NNE
Dist. fr. 6T>6..Bunm 63 a riist fr
Jack- I 71.... Temple 5S I n!.oio
60n\'iLle. V 73.... Starke 5T "*^^'^-
SSW 79... Hampton 51 '
85 Waldo (Alachua Co.) 45
For continuation of this line to Jacksonville, see p. 16 ; to Cedar Key, see
p. 5.
Brevard County.
Area, 3,000 sq. m.— Lat. 27" 10' to 28° 50' N.— Long. 80° 10' to 81° W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 3,399.— Pop. (1880), 1,478.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,007,474.—
County seat, Titusville.
The present county was formed from St. Lucie County, in
January, 1855. The county seat was successively at Fort
Pierce or Susannah (1855 to 1864), Bassville (1864 to 1873),
Lakeville (1873 to 1879), and finally at Titusville, or, as it was
formerly known, Sandy Point. In 1879 the southern part
of Volusia County was added to Brevard, so that the county
now includes 108 miles of Atlantic Sea-coast, practically em-
bracing the whole of the Indian River with its dependencies,
and nearly covering two degrees of latitude. The coast-line
forms the eastern boundary of this tract, its general trend
being N.N.E. by S.S.E. The western boundary is defined
for about twenty miles by the St. John's River, and then
follows a township meridian southward to Lake Okeechobee,
the great inland sea of Central Florida. The greatest width
is on the southern boundary, about forty-two miles, marked
by a township line from Okeechobee to the mouth of the St.
Lucie River.
Fronting the ocean is a strip of beach, broken by occa-
sional inlets, and usually varying in width from a few hun-
dred yards to a mile. This is covered for the most part with
a heavy growth of timber, and rarely rises to a height of
more than fifteen or twenty feet above high-water mark. West
of this is Indian River, a narrow strait or lagoon, averaging
about a mile in width, but spreading out to some six miles
10 lUlKVARlJ COCNTV,
at the widest, and contracting to barely a Imndred feet at the
Narrows. Near the head of the river are large islands or
peninsulas, and farther south, at the Jupiter and St. Lucie
Narrows, are innumerable small islands separated l)y channels
often not more than one hundred feet wide, and covered with
an almost impenetrable growth of mangroves and other troji-
ieal vegetation. Indian Eiver is, in fact, not a river as the
term is ordinarily understood. It is a great lagoon fed by
countless fresh-water streams, but oi^cn to the ocean through
several considerable inlets, in which the salt water ebbs and
flows. The water is partly salt and partly fresh, according
to the state of the tide, or the distance from an inlet, or from
fresh-water rivers and springs. The depth averages twelve
feet in the channel, and there are no natural obstacles of a
dangerous character from one end of the river to the other.
The mainland or west shore of the Indian River varies con-
siderably in height, and in the character of its soil, but it
offers an almost unbroken succession of desirable building
sites, and unsurpassed lands for the cultivation of citrus-
fruits and pineapples.
This fertile belt is comparatively narrow. To the west-
ward stretches a wilderness, as yet hardly explored, save by
the hunter and surveyor, and still haunted by the large game
of Florida — bears, panthers, wild cats, and deer; while turkies
and the lesser varieties of wild-fowl are found in abundance.
Much of this wild region is swamj^y, and there are many
shallow lakes navigable for canoes.
There is every reason to believe that this wilderness was
once a lagoon and that in the course of time — a few thou-
sand years more or less — the natural processes of geological
upheaval and accretion will convert Indian Eiver, first into
a morass, and then into dry land, while jjerhaps another
beach and another river will form to seaward.
The shores of Indian River, then, are substantially the
only inhabited portion of Brevard County. For a more de-
tailed description, the reader is referred to Routes 70 to 74.
It remains to describe in general terms the climate of this
coast, and this is best done by reference to the reports of the
United States Signal Service.
BREVARD COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
lu, l-l t-l I— 1-1 I
0 6 ao
BREVARD COUNTY— CALHOUN COUNTY. 11
The Indian Eiver Division of the Jacksonville, Tampa,
& Key West system at present ends at Titusville, near the
northern boundary. The stations next to and within the
county are :
I 23....Maytowii 18 jj
Dist.fr. 31 Aurantia 10 Diet fr
Enterprise ^ 35....Mims 6 ^ TitusVille.
Jc. Q 37 La Grange 4
* 41 ... . TitusviUe 0
For continuation of this line nortli and south from Enterprise Junction, see
pp. 70, 97. For steamboat routes from Titusville, see Route 70.
Calhoun County.
Area, 1,160 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 30' N.— Long. 8.5° to 85° 40' W.— Popu-
lation (1890). 1,G71.— Pop. (1880), 1,580.— Assessed valuation, $352,862.— County
seat, BIonutstowTi.
This county was organized with its present boundaries in
1874. It was named after John C. Calhoun, a prominent
Southern statesman, who died in 1850. The land is sandy,
with clay subsoil and underlying limestone ; for the most part
heavily timbered and within easy reach of water transporta-
tion. The Apalachicola River, navigable for steamers, forms
the eastern boundary, and nearly parallel to it are the Chi-
pola River and Brothers River, both of them navigable ex-
cept during low water. The bottom-lands along the rivers,
especially the Apalachicola, are rich alluvial deposits of in-
exhaustible fertility, but subject, of course, to periodical
overflow. Sjorings of excellent water abound throughout
the county, and the pine lands are for the most jjart of good
quality.
"West of the Apalachicola the Chiiaola River widens into
Dead Lakes, sunken areas with dead cypress-trees standing
or lying in water ten to twenty feet deep. It is thought that
the subsidence of the lake bottoms is of comparatively recent
occurrence. This region can only be penetrated in boats, but
it offers great attractions and novel experiences to sportsmen
who are not afraid of hard work.
St. Joseph's Bay is a fine body of navigable water with
shores well adapted for camping.
CAIiHOl N COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
CITRUS COUNTY.
13
Citrus County.
Area, 700 sq. m.— Lat. 26° 40' to 28° 10' N.— Long. 82° IC to 82° 50' W.—
Population (1890), 2,387.— Elevation at Mt. Lee, 214 ft.— Assessed valuation
(ISSS), $874,752.— County seat, Mannfield.
This county was organized, June 2, 1887, prior to ■Rhicli
date it was included in Hernando County. It borders upon
the Gulf of Mexico, and is drained by the Withlacoochee
Eirer, a navigable stream forming its northern and eastern
boundaries. The face of the country is level near the coast,
covered with heavy hammock growth, and bearing a rich soil
of varying depth underlaid with coraline and limestone rock
rich in phosphates. Farther inland are rolling pine lands
rising to a considerable height. The climate is tempered by
the Gulf breezes, and northern and easterly winds are of very
rare occurrence. Several of the wonderful springs peculiar
to Florida are found within the county. The fishing and
14 CITRUS COUNTY— CLAY COUNTY.
limiting arc exceptionally lino. Along the coast are numer-
ous shell-mounds and islands, affording excellent building
sites. The Homosassa Eiver and its vicinity olfer especial
attractions to settlers, tourists, and sportsmen.
The Gulf Coast is bordered by countless islands, or keys, of
limestone, some of them covered with mangroves, others
nearly barren. Navigation is very dangerous owing to reefs,
shoals, and oyster-beds that extend in some cases miles from
the coast. There are, however, two harbors accessible for
vessels drawing not more than four feet, at Crystal Eiver,
and Homosassa.
Citrus is a rich orange country, and is the natural home
of the Homosassa orange, which has, jierhaps, the longest
established reputation of any of the Florida varieties, and, it
is said, has taken more prizes than any other.
The Silver Springs, Ocala, and Gulf Railroad crosses the
county from Dunellon, on the Withlacoochee River, to Homo-
sassa, near the Gulf Coast. The stations next to and within
the county are :
I 26 ... , Dmiellon (Marion Co.) 22
■n!«f ft. 34....Citrouelle U A rnot *,
^?n'i, 38.... Park Place 10 j,^h.!i„,
Ocala. I on n...„„f„i Q Homosassa.
.Park Place 10
39.... Crystal.
48 Homosassa 0
For continuation of ttiis line to Ocala, see p. 64.
Clay County.
Area, 640 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 41' to 30" 6' N.— Long. 81° 85' to 82° 1' W.—
—Population (1890), 5,134.— Pop. (1S80), 2,838.— Assessed valuation (1888),
$1,200,000.— Elevation on Trail Ridge, 150 feet.— County seat. Green Cove
Spring.
Clay County was organized in 1856, from Duval County,
and named after the Hon. Henry Clay, of Kentucky, United
States Senator for many years, and a candidate for the Presi-
dency in 1824 and 1844. The St. John's River, separating
Clay County from St. John's County on the east, is here a
noble stream varying from one mile to three miles in Avidth.
Black Creek, one of its tributaries, is navigable for steamers
as far as Middleburg, where two smaller branches unite to
form the main stream. These branches find their source re-
spectively in the northern and southern sections of the coun-
CLAY COUNTY.
15
ty. The South Fork again subdivides into Green's Creek
and Ates Creek, "which drain the lake region of the county.
The land is in the main mode*-ately high pine, interspersed
with hammock and scrub oak. The best plantations lie
along the St. John's River, where are many flourishing orange-
groves. Through this portion of the county runs the main
line of the Jacksonville, Tampa <fe Key West Railway, af-
fording direct and easy communication with all jjoints north
and south. The lake region is largely unoccupied as yet,
but has abundant natural attractions for the sportsman as
well as for the permanent settler.
Ifi
CLAY COUNTY— COLUMBIA COUNTY.
The J., T. & K. W. Ey. follows the west bank of the St.
John's River. The stations within and near the county are :
11 ... . Reed's {Duval Co.) 114
14 . . .Orange Park Ill N
18.... Peoria 107 a
20.... Black Creek • 105
Dipt. 24... Fleming 101 Diet. fr.
fr. Jackson- 23 Magnolia 97 Port
ville. 29 . . . Green Cove Spring 96 Tampa.
.SO Melrose Crossing ' 95
33....Wallkill 91
S ....WestTocol 84
40 Bostwick {Putnam Co.) 79
' Branch to Florence Mills and Sharon, 9 m. southwest. For continuation of
main line north, see p. 25 ; south, see p. 82.
The main line of the F. C. & P. Ry. crosses the north-
western corner of the county. Stations adjacent to and
within the countv are :
Dist.
fr. Fernan-
dina.
55 . . . Maxville {Duval Co.) 121 N
56 ...Wilby 122 a
V 61.... Highland ...117 I
S 66.... Lavrtey {Bradford Co.) 112 |
Dist. fr.
Ocala.
For continuation of this line to Ocala, see p. 9 ; Cedar Key, see p. 7 ; Feman-
dina and Jacksonville, see pp. 25 and 67.
The Western Railway of Florida runs to Belmore, li miles
southwest of Green Cove Spring. The stations are :
Dist. fr.
Green Cove.
V
SW
0 Green Cove Spring 14
3 Clinch's 11
6. . . . Willkinson 8
7 Novella 7
10 Sharon 4
11 West Sharon 3
14 Belmore 0
NE
A
Dist. fr.
Belmore.
Columbia County.
Area, 860 eq. m.— Lat. 29° 4S' to 30° 33' K— Long. 82" 27' to 82' 50' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 12,844.— Pop. (ISSO), 9,589.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,600,463.
—Highest elevation, 200 ft. (Lake aty).— County seat, Lake City.
Columbia is one of the northern tier of counties touching
the Georgia line, and including a wide tract of unsettled flat
pine land in its northern half. The southern half is mod-
erately high pine land, with extensive tracts of good ara-
ble soil, underlaid in the western portion by soft sandstone,
and elsewhere by clay, which has been used, since 1847, for
brick. The long staple Sea Island cotton thrives in this
IG E O R G
rn
[Blounts Ferry
2
COLUMBIA COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
18 COLUMBIA COUNTY.
county, and large warehouses have been established at Lake
City and elsewliere. Good water is found in natural and
artificial wells and streams all over the county, save in
the southwestern i^ortion, wliere limestone i^revails, and, of
course, affects the water.
The line of the Florida Central «fe Peninsula Railway
crosses the central i:)ortion of the county, connecting to the
eastward and westward with Jacksonville, Tallahassee, and
Pensacola. From Lake City to Lake City Junction is a di-
vision of the Savannah, Florida & Western Railway, leading
to Gainesville and the Suwannee River at New Branford.
Santa Fe River, separating the county from Alachua on the
south, is navigable for steamers as far as Fort White, and
is available for small boats, and for log-rafting to its junc-
tion with Olustee Creek. Three of the largest creeks in the
county sink into the ground, to reappear, probably, in some
of the numerous springs along the principal water-coui*ses.
The exceptional healthfulness of the central region has
been recognized by the Trustees of the State Agricultural
College, who, after due deliberation, selected Lake City as
the site of the institution.
The chief articles of export are Sea Island cotton, corn,
and tobacco, cotton being the largest and most profitable
crop.
The Western Division of the F. C. & P. Ry. crosses the
county from east to west, with stations, as follows, within
and adjacent to the boundaries :
47 ... .0\nstee (Baker Co.) 160 p
Diet. i 52.... Mt. Carrie 155 ^ -n.vt ft-
fr. Jackson- w 59 .... Lake City ' 148 ^ -^i^tljr
ville. w 65....0ffden 142 Kiverdc.
W
71 Welborn (Suwannee Co.) 136
» Connects with Lake City Division. Waycross Short Line, Lake City to
Lake City Junction, 19 m. ; Fort White, 22 m., and Gainesville, Alachna County.
For continuation to River Junction, see p. 91 ; to Jacksonville, see p. 7.
DADE COUNTY. 19
Dade County.
Area, 7,200 eq. m.— Lat. 25° W to 26° 10^ N.— Long. 80° to 80° 55' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 726.— Pop. (1880), 257.— County seat, Juno.
Dade County is, at this writing, in the main inaccessible
to the ordinary tourist, and unopened to the average settler.
Communication by rail has been established with Lake
AYorth, near the northern boundary, but the only means of
reaching Biscayne Bay, its southernmost habitable district,
is by way of the weekly mail-packets — ordina)'y coasting
schooners from Key "West. The seventy miles of beach be-
tween Lake Worth Inlet and Cape Florida are accessible
only by means of sea-going craft, or on foot, or in canoes
along the tortuous water-ways that connect the various
rivers and inlets. The map indicates the scant line of settle-
ments along the coast, all of them within sound of the surf.
The rest of the wide domain is unsurveyed, is inhabited only
by the remnant of the Seminole Indians, and is visited only
by the more enterprising and adventurous of hunters and
cowboys. Within the bounds of the county lies the major
part of the great inland fresh-water lake Okeechobee. To
the southward and eastward stretch the pathless Everglades,
separated from the sea only by a comparatively narrow ridgo
of coralline rock. From the southern reaches of Indian
River and from Lake Worth something of an export trade
has opened in pineapples, cocoanuts, tomatoes, fish, and
turtles. This goes northward by way of the Jupiter &
Lake Worth Eailway and the Indian Eiver steamers. The
settlements along Biscayne Bay send similar products and
a considerable amount of koonti-root starch bv sea to Kev
West.
To the sportsman the inland and coastwise waters of Dade
County offer endless attractions, which are described more
in detail under their approjDriate local divisions. See Jupiter
Inlet and Vicinity, Lake Worth, Hillsborough Eiver, New
River, Boca Eatones, Biscayne Bay, Lake Okeechobee, The
Everglades, etc.
The only railway in Dade County, and the southernmost
in the United States, is the narrow-gauge line, seven miles
DADE COUNTY— DE SOTO COUNTY. 21
long, from Jupiter Inlet to the Lead of Lake Woitli, see
Eoute 75. It belongs to tlie Jacksonville, Tampa, & Key
West system, and runs in connection with their boats on the
Indian Eiver. This Com]mny is extending its surveys to the
southward, and constructing a wagon-road from Lake Worth
to Biscayne Bay.
De Soto County.
Area, 3,800 sq. m.— Lat. SB" 45' to 27° 38' N.— Long. 80° 50' to 82° 20' W.—
Population (1890), 4,940.— Assessed valuation, $1,983,640.— County seat, Ar-
cadia.
This county was organized in 1887, as the result of a sub-
division of Manatee County, and was approijriately named
after the great Spanish navigator, Hernando De Soto.
It is still in the main a wilderness, some sixty miles wide,
extending from the Kissimmee River and Lake Okeechobee
on the east to the Gulf of Mexico on the west. A narrow
chain of settlements skirts the navigable waters and the line
of the Florida Southern Eailway, but a few miles on either
side of these the jjine forests are unbroken until they disap-
pear in the i^rairies and saw-grass bordering the great inland
lakes. And yet this region represents large wealth, for here
begins the great cattle range of Southwestern Florida, ex-
tending from Peace River on the northwestern side of the
county to the borders of the Everglades. This whole region
is flat or gently rolling pine land, interspersed with ham-
mock, and often opening into prairies and savannas. Except-
ing in the dense hammock, the whole is carpeted with grass,
affording nutritious food for cattle the year round, while no
shelter whatever is required for the animals.
The county is bisected by the twenty-seventh parallel of
north latitude, about two-thirds of its area lying to the north-
ward of that line. With the contiguous county of Lee it con-
tains by far the largest tract of naturally valuable land in
South Florida. Owing to its low latitude, tropical fruit cult-
ure and truck farming for early vegetables are among its
chief industries.
The Florida Southern Railwav crosses the countv from
DE SOTO COUNTY— DUVAL COUNTY. 23
northeast to southwest, having its terminus at Punta Gorda,
near the head of Charlotte Harbor, where it connects with the
Morgan Line of steamers for New Orleans, and with coast-
wise craft plying to the southward. Charlotte Harbor and
its adjacent waters afford the best tarpon fishing on the Gulf
Coast (see Eoute 81), and all the game fish of this region
abound in the rivers and bays. Deer and turkeys are fre-
quently killed within five miles of the railroad, but for the
certainty of good sport the hunter must go farther afield, as
the large game is generally hunted off in the vicinity of the
permanent settlements.
Duval County.
Area, 900 sq. m.— Lat. 30" 35' to 30° 10' N.— Long. 81° 20' to 820 5' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 26,T55.— Pop. (1880), 19,431.— Assessed valuation (1888), $9,540,619.
— County seat, Jacksonville.
Duval was one of the original counties into which the
territory of Florida was divided in accordance with an act of
Congress, on the second Monday of June, 1822, nearly a year
after the United States formally acquired possession. A glance
at the map will show the peculiar commercial advantages
that it has always held. Ever since the shi^DS of the French
Huguenot, Jean Ribaut, anchored inside the bar at the
mouth of the St. John's, and named it the River of May,
this noble stream has been the natural avenue of travel and
trade to and from the interior of the peninsula. Along its
banks the first settlements were formed and railroads fol,
lowed the settlements. All traffic between the Atlantic
States lying to the northward and the Floiidian peninsula
passes almost of necessity either through the St. John's
River or near the jioint where the course of the stream
changes from north to east.
The county lies on both sides of the river to a point about
twenty-five miles from the sea-coast. It was named after the
Hon. William P. Duval first territorial governor of Florida.
The first white settlement was made by the French in
1564, at St. John's Bluff, a high promontory on the south bank
of the river about three miles from its mouth (see p. 118).
24
DUVAL (Jf)UNTV,
This wrvs merely a military post. The first civil settlement
is believed to have been made in 1812, at the head of the old
King's road from St. Augustine, on the south bank of the
river opposite the present site of Jacksonville. The settler,
Lewis Z. Hogan, moved across the river in 1816, and thus
was formed the nucleus of the leading commercial citv of
DUVAL COUNTY. ' 25
Florida. Long before this, however, the banks of the river
were inhabited by Indian tribes, as is evident from the
countless shell mounds that exist on both sides of the stream,
often containing rude pottery, stone implements and the like,
mingled with bones of men and animals iu perplexing and
suggestive confusion.
The sea-coast line is about twenty miles in extent measuring
southward from the mouth of Nassau Kiver. The greater
I^art of it is fine hard beach, suitable for diiving and bathing
and usually backed by sand ridges or hammocks available
for building-sites.
All the great railway lines of Florida centre in Jackson-
ville. The main line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key
West System runs south to Tampa, Punta Gorda, and Titus-
ville. Stations within the county and next to the southern
boundarv are :
, 0 Jacksonville 125
Dist. fr. I 4 . . . Edgewood 121
N
Jackson- „ 9. ...Black Foint. .'.'..........'.'.'.'.'.'. .116 f^ P^^l' ^'
V 11 T?„^/iv 11. Sanford.
ville. c 11... Reed's 114
14 ... . Orange Park {Clay Co.) Ill
The Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Halifax Eiver Kailway
(J., T. & K. W. System) crosses the St. John's Eiver on a
steel drawbridge, just above the city. Stations within the
county and next beyond are :
0 . . . Jacksonville 37
1....S. Jacksonville 36 NW
3 . . . . Phillips 34 a
5 . . Bowden 32 ; p.. .
9 Summerville 28 i - al \
10....Nesb:t 2T ' fr.St.Au-
11. ...Eaton 26 | gustme.
V 14 Sweetwater 23
SE 16 ...Bayard 21 |
17 ... . Register (St. John's Co.) 20
For connections at St. Augustine, see p. 133.
The Plant System, Savannah, Florida & Western Eailway,
Waycross short line. From foot of Bridge Street. Stations
within and near Duval County are :
Dist. fr.
Jackson-
ville.
Dist. fr.
1
0 .
. Jacksonville'
20 NVT
Dist. fr.
Jackson-
V
12
..Dinsmore
8 A
ville.
SE
2D..
..Callahan^
0 t
' For connections, see p. 103.
« Connects with F. C. & P. Ry., eee p. 67.
26
DUVAL COUNTY.
D:6t. f:.
Femandina.
The Florida Central «fe Peninsula Railroad — Jacksonville
Branch. Between Jacksonville and Fernandina. From foot
of Hogan Street. Stations are :
0 Jacksonville' 37
j 1 Wavcross Jc 36 S
Diet. 5 Jacksonville Jc 32 a
fr. Jackson- I 15.... Duval 22 i
ville. V 26....Ilart'.s Rd. Jc.= U
N 27.... Hart's Road 10 |
37 Fernandina^ 0
' For connections, see p. 103.
2 Connects with Southern Div. F. C. & P., see p. 67.
3 Connects with Mallory Line Pteamers for New York (see p. 127) ; and coast-
wise steamers for Georgia ports.
The Jacksonville & Atlantic Railroad has its station in
South Jacksonville. Ferry from foot of Market Street. The
stations are :
Dist. fr.
Jackson-
ville.
0 Jacksonville 17.3
1 S. Jacksonville' 1G.3
2.8....St. Nichola 14.5
6 . . . . Pottsburg 11.3
14.6. . . .San Pablo 2.7
17.3. . . .Pablo Beach 0
> Connects with J., T. & K. W. Svstem.
Dist. fr.
Pablo
Beach.
The Jacksonville, Mavport & Pablo Railway & Navigation
Co. has its station at Arlington, on the south bank of the St.
John's, three miles by ferry, foot of Newnan Street. The
stations are :
Dist. fr.
Jackson-
ville.
0 Jacksonville 20
3 Aj-liugton 17
4 ... Egleston .16
1 ... Verona 13
8 Cohaseett 12
9 McCormick 11
10... Mill Cove 10
11 Pine Grove 9
14. ...Idlewild 6
15 Greenfield 5
16 Bumside Beach 4
18.... The Jetties 2
19 , . Jettv Cottage 1
19i.. .Light House ^
20. . . .Mayport 0
Dist. fr.
Mayport.
ESCAMIJIA COUNTY. 27
Escambia County.
Area, 720 sq. m.— Lat. 31" to 30° 20' N.— Long. 87° 40' to 87° 50' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), 20,097.— Pop. (1880), 12,156.— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,649,758.
— County seat, Pensacula.
The magnificent bay where Pensacola now stands was dis-
covered by Pamphilo de Narvaez, Avho landed there, accord-
ing to the English historian Jeffries, in 1528. A iDermauent
settlement was made in 1696, by the Si^aniards under Don
Andre d'Arreola, on the present site of Fort Barrancas, and
since that time, although the location of the town was re-
peatedly shifted, and it has been held successively by
French, English, and Americans, it has never been aban-
doned by Europeans.
Escambia is the westernmost county of Florida, terminat-
ing the Gulf range of counties, and separated from Alabama
on the west by the Perdido Kiver, and on the north by the
arbitrary interstate line. Its soil is sand underlaid with
clay, and its agricultural capabilities are rapidly developing.
Its main export, however, is lumber, since Pensacola is the
shipping-point for a vast region of heavily wooded land
lying to the northward, and penetrated by streams, down
which the logs are floated to tide-water.
Much of the land in the county is high and rolling, with
hardwood hammocks along the watercourses.
To hunters, fishermen, and yachtsmen, the coasts and
waterways of Escambia County ofier great attractions. The
extensive land-locked sounds and bays afford safe anchorage
in all weatheis, and are easy of access from sea at all stages
of the tide. The shores are almost everywhere available for
camping purposes, and game abounds, though reckless and
indiscriminate shooting has made it very wild.
The Pensacola & Atlantic Division of the Louisville &
Nashville Railroad enters the county from Santa Rosa
County on the east, crossing Escambia Bay on a long
trestle. The stations are :
Ppiisft- ' ^ •i'otiemia 155 a -Rivpr
i^f V 8....Yn!estra 153 I "i!^"^
^°'^- NNE 9. ...Escambia.... 152 '"'•
ESCAMBIA COUNTY— FRANKLIN COUNTY. 29
The Pensacola & Atlantic Division, Louisville & Nash-
ville Eailroad, enters Escambia from Alabama on the north.
Stations near aud within the county are :
0 . . . . FlomatOH ' 44
5. . . .Bluff Springs 39 N
12 . . McDavid 32 a
20... Moliiio 24
24. . . Quintette 20
28 Cantonment- lo
32. . . . Gonzalez 12
37. ...Olive T
44 Pensacola 0
■ Connects with lines to New Orleans, Montgomery, and Selma.
^ Branch to Muscogee, five miles west.
The Pensacola & Perdido Eailroad connects Pensacola with
Millview, six miles west, on Perdido Bay.
Diet. fr.
Flomaton.
Dist. fr.
Psnsacoia.
Franklin County.
Area, 500 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30" 5' N.— Long. 84" 30' to 85° 15' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 3,271.— Pop. (1880), 1,791.— Assessed valuation (1888), $495,427.—
Cotmty seat, Apalachicola.
Nearly the whole of this county was originally included in
what was known as the Forbes Purchase, the result of
negotiations made with the Indians by an English firm,
Forbes & Co., in 1819. This was just prior to the transfer
of Florida from Spain to the United States. The sea-coast
of this county is sheltered by St. Vincent's, St. George's
Island, and Dog Island, within which are broad sounds and
bays navigable for vessels of any size and affording fishing
grounds unsurpassed by any on the coast. Dog Island Har-
bor especially is one of the finest on the Gulf.
Owing to its isolated position Franklin County has not yet
been penetrated by railroads, and for this reason it offers
attractions to the sportsman not possessed by its more ac-
cessible neighbors. Tributary to these nearly land-locked
waters are a number of rivers and estuaries, many of them
navigable for vessels of considerable size, and all navigable
for small boats, affording access to some of the be.st hunting
lands in Florida. The region is most easily reached by way
of the Apalachicola River, from Eiver Junction, whence com-
'^ninication by rail is easy and direct from all i^arts of the
United States.
GADSDEN COUNTY.
31
Gadsden County.
Area, 540 sq. m.— Lat. 30" 20' to 30" 40' N.— Long. 84" 15' to 84° 55' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 11,878.— Pop. (1880), 12,169.— Assessed valuation (1888), 11,018,149.
—County seat, Quincy.
Organized as one of the original counties into which the
State was divided in 1822, Gadsden County soon became
one of the leading agricultural districts of Florida. The
face of the country is undulating, with a subsoil of red clay,
well watered, and covered with a heavy growth of hammock
and i^inc timber. The Ocklockonee Kiver forms the dividing
line from Leon County on the southwest, and into this flow
numerous " runs " and creeks of clear water, affording abun-
dant facilities for water-power and natural irrigation for wide
tracts of land. The hills rise to a considerable height in the
northern jiart of this county— more than 300 feet in the
neighborhood of Quincy. Under the system of cultivation
that prevailed prior to the Civil War, and before adequate
means of transportation existed, the annual tobacco crop was
something like 5,000 boxes of 350 j^ounds each. Within a
few years this industry has been revived by Northern capital
on a large scale in the vicinity of Quincy (Route 223).
The culture of Cuban tobacco was introduced into Gadsden
32 GADSDEN COUNTY— HAMILTON COUNTY.
Couuty in 1829, by a Virginian who settled in the vicinity of
Quincy. He was so successful that his example was soon
followed, and until the Civil War iu 18G0 the value of the
crop nearly or quite equalled that of cotton, the annual ship-
ments averaging 1,G00,0U0 pounds. A great advantage of
tobacco-growers was that the busy season timed itself so as
not to interfere with cotton -planting. Thus the tobacco
could usually be harvested after the cotton was started and
before it was time for j^icldng, while the packing and boxing
was necessarily done in wet weather, when out-of-door work
was impracticable. The Civil War first and the abolition of
slavery afterward jiractically suspended this industry.
The Western Division of the Florida Central & Peninsula
Railway crosses Gadsden Couuty with stations as follows :
9 Ocklockonee (I^oii Co.) 34
T,, . I 12....Mdvvav 31 SE
fr.Talla- ' 24...0,umcy 19 a Dist. fr.
hassee.
V 33. Mt. Pleasant 10 I Kiver Jc.
NW 42.... Chattahoochee! 1 '
43 River Junctiou - 0
' Connects Savannah, Flonda & Western Railway, crossing at once into
Georgia.
'' Connects Pensaco'a & Atlantic Division L. & N. (see p. 16), and with Chat-
tahoochee River Steamers.
Hamilton County.
Area, 460 sq. m.— Lat. 30" 20' to 80" 40' N.— Lonjr. 82° 40' to 83° 20' W.—
Population (1890), 8,477.— Pop. (1880). 6,790.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,042-
495. — County seat, Jasper.
The county lies between the Suwannee Eiver on the west,
and one of its main branches, the Alapaha, on the south and
east. The surface is generally level, with rolling land near
the rivers, and a fine growth of hammock timber and pine,
and cypress in some portions. Sea Island or long stajile
cotton is successfully grown. In the river-swamps and ham-
mocks the soil is rich and dark. The Florida Central &
Peninsula Railroad runs through the middle of the county
from north to south, and the Florida Central & Western
Railroad passes close to the southwestern corner at EUa-
ville, Madison County. The county contains a number of
remarkable springs, sinks, and other natural curiosities.
HAMILTON COUNTY -HERNANDO COUNTY.
33
Tlio Gaiuesville Division, Savannah, Florida & Western
Eaijroad, crosses the county with stations as follows :
Dist. fr.
Savannah.
130 Dupont 49
139. ..Forrest 40 N
150....Statenville 29 a
163 .. . Jasper 16
168 Marion 11 1
171 Suwannee (Suwannee Co.) 8 1
179. . . Live Oak {Huwannee Co.) ' 0
Dist. fr.
Live Oak.
I Connects F. C. & P. Ry. running east to Jacksonville, and west to River
Junction (see p. 91). For continuation to Gainesville, see p. 91.
The Georgia Southern & Florida Railroad enters the
county from Georgia on the north with stations as follows :
Dist fr I 167.... Melrose (Ga.) ^^ ^^^^ Dist fr
Macon. Ga. s^E l99;;;:w^te Springs-:::. :::.::::::::::n 1 ^^'<^^-
I Crosses S. F. & W. Ey.
Hernando County.
Area, 500 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 25' to 23° 40' N.— Long. 82° to 8»> 40' W.— Popula-
tion (1890). 2,474.— Assessed valuation (1888). $900.000.— County seat. Brooks-
ville.
Until 1850 this county, then three times its present size,
was named Benton, after the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, of
3
34
HERNANDO COUNTY.
North Carolina, a popular statesman of the day. The pres-
ent name was chosen when the original county was subdi-
vided in 1875.
Brooksville, the county town, lies in the midst of one of
the finest agricultural regions of the State. The surface soil
is largely a rich vegetable mould, underlaid with brown sandy
loam several feet deep, and resting upon a substratum of
limestone, clay, or marl. In area the land is about equally
divided into hammock, high pine, low pine, and swamp.
The hammock lands are almost invariably high and rolling,
with fine natural drainage, and an exceedingly rich soil un-
derlaid with sand or clay, and having a substratum of lime-
stone. All these lands, except the very poorest, are ex-
tremely productive, yielding cotton, tobacco, vegetables, and
the various field crops. In the central and western parts of
the county the ridges rise to a height of some three hundred
feet above tide-water. There are no navigable rivers, and the
Gulf coast can be approached only by boats of very light
draught, save at Gulf Key or Hammock Creek, where there
is a good harbor accessible for vessels drawing six feet of
water. Indian Creek, in the same harbor, is also a safe
anchorage for small vessels. Elsewhere the approaches
to the coast are shallow, with numerous oyster-beds, and
an archipelago of small barren islands in the northern part.
HERNANDO COUNTY 35
The Florida Southern (J., T. k K. W. sjsiem), the South
Florida, the Florida Central and the Orange Belt railroads
cross the eastern part of the county, and a branch of the first
named penetrates to Brooksville in the middle of the
county.
Stations of the Florida Southern within and adjacent to
the county are :
_ . „ I 63 ... . Pemberton Ferry ' 11 W Dist. f r.
JJist.tr. y 69... Couper 5 a Brooks-
Ocala. J, T4. ...Brooksville 0 | ville.
I Connects wth South Florida Railroad (see below). For continuation of this
line to Ocala, see p. 87.
The Bartow Branch of the South Florida Eailroad has sta-
tions within and next to the county as follows :
, 0 Pemberton Ferry ' {Sumter Co.) . . 57 fj
T,. . f 1.... Fitzgerald 56 "-^
Dist fr 3. ...Oriole 54 ^ Dist.
Pemberton g BayCity 51 fr. Bartow.
J?e.ry. v iq .. Macon (/^a^w Co.) 47
^ 11.... Orange Belt Jc. - 48 '
' Connects with J., T. A K. W. system (see above).
■■' Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see below). For continuation of this line, see
p. 76.
The Tampa Branch of the F. C. & P. Co. crosses the east-
ern point of the county from north to south. The stations
are :
Diet. fr. I 22. . . .Withlacoochee 39 a Dist.fr.
Wild- I 2S. .Lacoochee ; 32 I Plant
Wood. V 30....Owensboro ••' 31 | City.
' Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see belowV
■■' Crosses South Florida Railroad (see p. 76). For continuation of this line,
see p. 76.
The Orange Belt Railway crosses the eastern point of the
county from northeast to southwest. Stations are :
■n--c=f f, I 06... Wyoming S3 NE Dist.fr.
Monrn^' ^ 71 . . . . Lai:oochee ' 77 a St. Peters-
^*^°"'^°^' SW 73....Macon2 75 | burg.
' C. -oases P. C. & P. Ry. (see above).
- Crosses South Florida Railroad (see above). For continuation of this line,
see pp. 74 and 87.
36 HILLSBOROUGH COUNTY.
Hillsborough County.
Area, 1,300 sq. m.— Lat. 27° 2^ to 28" 50' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 50' W.— Popu-
lation (lS90"i, 14,810.— Pop. (1880), 5,814.— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,200,000.
— County seat, Tampa.
This county, or the region adjacent, early received its name
after the Earl of Hillsborough, Secretary of State for the
colonies of Great Britain during the American Revolution.
The county was organized in 1835. It is mainly in the long-
leaf pine region, naturally all woodland, -with 1,185 square
miles of rolling pine land, 75 square miles of marshy lowland,
and 40 square miles of hammock. Of all the Gulf counties
Hillsborough is j^erhaps the most favored in her coast line,
which exceeds 150 miles in length, although from north to
south the county is only 36 miles wide. This is due to
Tauijia Bay, which with its branches, Hillsborough Bay and
EiveraudOld Tamj^a Bay, penetrates far into the interior.
About one quarter of the whole extent of coast is low and
marshy, while the rest rises quite abruptly from the water's
edge, often with bluffs and a border of fine beach. The
greater part of the county is good pine land, with a fair
amount of hammock and some open prairie. The better lands
for agricultural purposes lie in the western part.
Tampa Bay was one of the first discovered and used by
the early navigators, and it is almost certain that traders and
freebooters visited its waters prior to Hernando De Soto, who
anchored there on May 25, 1539, wdth a fleet of several ves-
sels, and a force of 570 men, comiDrising the very flower of
Spanish chivalry. He brought with him, also, 223 horses,
and the whole elaborate equipment of armorei*s, smiths, and
servants essential to the needs of such a force. The Feast of
Pentecost of that year fell on the .day of arrival, and the
noble bay was named Bahia Espiritu Sancto (Bay of the
Holy Spirit), after the devout custom of these early explorers.
The Spanish name Mas for centuries retained on the maps,
but it appears to have been dropped in favor of the still
older Indian name soon after the English gained a foothold.
On the shores of the bay and along the Gulf coast and the
outlying Keys are many Indian mounds of great interest to
XT
< ^ i > ^ "'
li S < O >^ !^,
" ^ " ^ H il
^8 si
3S
IIILLSBOROUCII COUNTY.
archicologists. Some account of them is given elsewhere
with a sketch of the results of such explorations as have thus
far been prosecuted. See Index.
Tampa Bay is navigable for vessels of the largest class.
The bar carries 20 feet of water at low tide, and good an-
chorage for yachts can be found almost anywhere within
the bay. There are no dangerous obstructions, and the only
difficulty likely to be encountered is in running upon the
shoals which make out from the shore, and occasionally occur
in mid channel. With a yacht properly constracted for ser-
vice in these waters running aground is a matter of small
moment. For hunters and fishermen the woods and wateis
of Hillsborough County offer abundant sport. All the game
and fishes peculiar to Florida may be found within a few
miles of the centres of jjopulation.
The South Florida Eoad, main line, has the following
named stations near and within the county :
83.... Lakeland {Polh Co.) i. 48
88. . . .Shiloh 43 E
93.... Plant City. 2. .. 3T a
98.... Cork 26
Dist.fr. I 100....Sparkman 24 Dist.fr.
Jackson- 103 ScfEuer 21 Port
•vdlle. I 105 Mango 19 Tampa.
109.... Orient 15
V 111. . . .East Cove 13
W 115. ...Tampa 9
124. ...Port Tampa^ 0
' Connects with Bartow & Pemberton Ferry Branches, S. F. Rd. (see p. 80).
2 Connects with F. R. & N. to Pasco County, Dade City, etc. (see p. 76).
3 Connects with ocean steamers to Key West, Havana, New Orleans, and
Mobile. Also with coastwise steamboats.
The Orange Belt Eoad, from Monroe, Yolusia County, to
St. Petersburg, enters Hillsborough County from the nori h
near the Gulf and mns southward down the coast. The sta-
tions in and near the county are :
lOG. . . .Odessa {Pasco Co.) 42
114. . . .Tacony 34 N
116 Tarpon Springs 32 a
120. . . Sea Side 28
122. . . .Sutherland 20
Dist. fr. 123. .. . Yellow Bluff (Ozoiia) 25
Uonroe. 127 Dnnedin 21
130 ... . Clearwater Harbor 18
132 ... . Armour 16
V 138. . . .Cross Bayou 10
S 142....Lel!man 6
143. . . .St. Petersburg : 0
' Connects with ferry to Port Tampa and coastwise steamboats.
Dlst. fr.
St. Peters-
burg.
HOLMES COUNTY.
39
Holmes County.
Area, 540 eq. m.— Lat. 30" 43' to 31° N.— Long. 86° 5' to 85° 30' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), 4,336.— Pop. (1880), 2,190.— Assessed valuation, $332,954.— County
seat, Cerro Gordo.
The land in Holmes County is mainly a good quality of pine
land, ■which produces cotton, sugar-cane, corn, and tobacco,
as the principal field crops. The soil is clay and sandy loam.
Peaches, grapes, and plums are successfully grown, and stock-
HOLMES COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
WALT O/N
raising is among the profitable industries. The Choctawhat-
chee River is the principal watercourse, finding its source
in Southern Alabama, running in a southerly direction across
the county, and falling into Choctawliatchee Bay. It is navi-
gable for steamboats beyond the county line, and is available
for logging purposes and small boats well up into Alabama.
Holmes County is underlaid with cavernous white lime-
stone, which frequently forms remarkable "sinks " and wells.
Most of the lakes and ponds are of this nature, often occur-
ring on ridges where there was a sufficient quantity of sand
and drift to fill in the cavity when the subsidence occurred.
40 HOLMES COUNTY— JACKSON COUNTY.
The Pensacola <V Atlantic Division of the Louisville &
Nashville Eailroad crosses Holmes County east and west near
the southern border. Stations in and near the county are as
follows :
43 Chipley ( Washington Co.) 118
I 53....Bonifav 108 E
Tkiof *■_ 61 Caryville 100 a T)ipt fr
^li;/; 63 ...Westville 98 i peng-oia.
RivcrJc. y 70....PoucedeLeon 91 i-ensacoia.
W T7....Ar<rvle 84 |
81 ... . De f uniak Sp 80
For continuation east and west, see p. 101.
Jackson County.
Area, 1,000 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 35' to 31* N.— Long. 84° SC to 85° 40' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 1T,492.— Pop. (1888), 14,372.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,023,985.
— County seat, Marianna.
This county is in what is termed the oak, hickory, and
pine upland region. It contains about 150 square miles of
red lime lands, 400 square miles of oak, hickory, and high
pine, and 450 square miles of ordinary long-leaf pine lands.
It is named after Gen. Andrew Jackson, military Governor
of Florida, and is one of the original counties organized on the
acquisition of the Territory by the United States. It is on
the eastern border of what is known as West Florida. The
Chattahoochee Eiver sei3arates it from Georgia on the east,
navigable for river steamers for the whole distance. The
Chattahoochee unites with the Apalachicola River near the
southeastern corner of the county. Along the river is a strip
of bottom land from one and one-half to two miles wide,
which is of extraordinary richness, but is subject to over-
flow. The Chipola Eiver, rising in the northern part of the
county, runs south, dividing it nearly in half. This stream
is used for floating lumber to the railroad and to the Gulf,
but is navigable only for small boats. Along the Chipola
Eiver are rich hammock lauds covered with a heavy growth
of hard wood timber, as oak, beach, magnolia, maple,
hickory, and bay. The county is well watei'ed by the tribu-
taries of the streams mentioned, and is besides well supplied
with lakes and springs. The soil is for the most part red
JACKSON COUNTf
41
clay and sandy loam, and produces cotton, corn, oats, rice,
sugar-cane, and tobacco, and all save the strictly subtropical
fruits.
The Pensacola & Atlantic Eailroad crosses the county from
JACKSOX
COUXTY 1^
, SCALE OF MILES ■
u, ^ _ _, _,' j^ C
east to west in its middle belt of townships, having stations
near and within the county as follows :
, 0 River Jc. > (Gadsden Co.) 161 tj,
I 5....Sneads 156 ^
Dist.fr. I 15.... Cypress 146 '> Dist.fr.
River Jc. w 25 Marianna 136 Pensacola.
^ 34....Cottondale 12T
44 . . Chipley ( Washington Co.) 117 '
• Connects witli Savannah, Florida & Western Railroad (see p. 32), and
Chattahoochee River steamers.
42
JEFFERSON COUNTY.
Jefferson County.
Area, 500 sq. m.— Lat. 30" to 30° 40' N.— Long. 83° 35' to 84° 5' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), 15,699.— Pop. (1880), 16,065.— Assessed valoation (1888), $1,800,000.
— County seat, Monticello.
Jefferson County stretches across that portion of the State
known as Middle Florida, touching Georgia on the north
JEFFERSON COUNTY— LAFAYETTE COUNTY. 43
and the Gulf of Mexico on the south. The Aucilla River,
navigable for steamboats to the natm-al bridge, forms the
southeastern boundary. The face of the country is unusually
diversified, the whole of the northern part hilly and well
wooded, Micosukee Lake forming its northwestern boundary.
This lake is about twelve miles long and six miles wide at
its western end, a curiously irregular body of water, sur-
rounded by extensive forests of pine. The soil is generally
a sandy loam underlaid with clay, well adapted for the cul-
tivation of early vegetables and fruits. The field crops are
mainly cotton, corn, rice, sugar-cane, and tobacco. About
twenty miles from the coast the hills abruptly disappear, and
from this point to the Gulf stretch the " flat woods " almost
unbroken, but full of game, and affording an inviting field
to the sportsman.
The Western Division of the F. C. & P. crosses the county
about twelve miles from the Georgia line. Its stations
within and nearest to the county are :
I 12.... Chaires (Leon Co.) 153 W
Dist. fr. 18. ...Lloyd 147 A Dist.fr.
Talla- I 2T....Driftou' 138 | Jackson-
hassee. V 34 Aucilla 131 ville.
E 41 GreenmWe {31'adison Co.) 124 |
• Connects with branch to Monticello, four miles, and then with branch of
Savannah, Florida & Western Railroad to Sunny Hill, twelve miles, and
Thomasviile, Oa., twenty mOes.
Lafayette County.
Area, 940 sq. m.— Lat. 29° ZC to 30° 15' N.— Long. 82° 50' to 83° 22' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 3,669.— Pop. (1880), 2,441.— Assessed valuation (1888), $502,818.—
County seat, New Troy.
Lafayette County lies along the west bank of the Suwannee
Kiver for the whole of its navigable course, its natural facil-
ities for transportation being excellent. The river is navi-
gable for steamboats to New Branford, where the Savannah,
Florida & Western Railway touches the eastern bank of the
river, affording communication by rail with Gainesville,
Lake City, and Live Oak, and the great trunk lines of rail-
way. The soil is sandy, underlaid with clay, and there is
much excellent hammock land as yet unoccupied. The
southern extremity of the county is within ten miles of
LAFAYETTE COUNTY— LAKE COUNTY. 45
Cedar Keys, the Gulf terminus of the Florida Central &
Peninsular Railway.
The Gulf coast of Lafayette County is very shallow, and
destitute of harbors, save at the mouth of the Suwannee and
Steinhatchee Rivers, where small vessels may find shelter and
anchorage. The fishing is excellent in the rivers and along
the coast.
Game of all kinds is very abundant in the heavily wooded
and sparsely populated region that covers the whole county
a few miles back from the river.
Lake County.
Area, 1,100 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 20' to 28° 55' N.— Long. 81° IS' to 81° 55' W.—
Population (1890), 8,020. Organized in 188T, no census. — Aesessed valuation
(1888), $3,724,116.— Highest elevation, 500 ft.— County seat, Tavares.
Lake County was formed in 1887 by an act of the State
Legislature uniting portions of the adjoining counties
(Orange and Sumter). It is among the most beautiful of
the inland counties, owing to the picturesque groups of lakes
from which it takes its name, and which cover nearly one-
sixth of its surface. The larger members of the group are
known as Lakes Harris, Eustis, Griflfen, Dunham, Dora, Yale,
Minnehaha, Mineola, and Apopka, the last named lying
jjartly within the borders of Orange County. Besides these
there are small lakes, almost without number, and abundant
flowing streams. That the county is nearly on the "divide "
of the Floridian Peninsula is evident from the fact that
streams flowing through its territory find their way to the
ocean through the three widely divergent channels of the St.
John's, the Withlacoochee, and the Kissimmee, the first
named falling into the Atlantic near the northern boundary
of the State, while the others reach the Gulf of Mexico,
through Lake Okeechobee and the Everglades. In point of
fact, the highest elevations in the State, nearly five hundred feet
above tide-water, are found in this county. The appi'oaches,
however, are so gradual that only the surveyor's level can
demonstrate the constant rise. The larger lakes are all navi-
gable for small steamers, and as some of them are connected
LAKE COUNTY.
47
by natural or artificial waterways quite an extensive and
varied system of navigation exists.
The Jacksonville, Tanii^a & Key West Railway system,
through the Florida Southern Railway Company, affords
abundant transportation facilities, and there are besides the
Tavares, Atlantic & Gulf, and the Orange Belt Railways.
These lines intersect in all directions, skirting the lake
shores and rendering all parts of the county easily accessible.
Other branch roads are contemplated, notwithstanding the
multiplicity, for Lake County is one of the richest orange-
gi'owing counties in the State, and it has been abundantly
proven that, to be profitable an orange grove must be within
a very few miles of a railroad.
The St. John's & Lake Eustis Division of the Florida
Southern Railway (J., T. & K. W. system) enters the county
at Astor (forty-two miles from Palatka) after crossing the St.
John's River. The stations are :
Diet. fr.
Astor.
0 Astor 25
4 Bryansville 21
6 Cummings 19
7. . . .Sellar'g Lake 18
12 . . . Summit 13
15 Ravenswood 10
16 Pittman 9
18. . . . Altoona T
20. . . . Glendale 5
21.... Umatilla 4
25 Fort Mason ' 0
Dist. fr.
Fort Mason.
1 Connects with branches to Tavares and Leesburg (see below).
Connections with the foregoing at Fort Mason (sixty-seven
miles from Palatka). This line is U-shaped, curving around
the north snore of Lake Eustis. The stations are :
0 Leesbnrg > 23
1 . . . . <irandview 22 NE
2 ...BeUe'reva 21 &
5....Lanier8 18 8W
6 ...Tilson IT a
7. . . Oranpe Bend 16
8 . . . Lisbon 15
10 Lancaster 12
11. . . .Grand Island 11
V 14 ...Fort Mason 2 9
NE 16. . . .Eustis 7
& 17.... Mt. Homer 6
SW 20.... Tavares ^ 3
23 . . Lane Park 0
' Connects with J., T. & K. W. system to Pemberton Ferry, etc.. and to
'Ocala, etc. (see p. 48). Also with F. C. A P.. Southern Division (see p. 48).
'■' Connects with J., T. & K. W. branch to Astor (see above).
3 Connects with J., T. A K. VV. branch to Sanford (see p. 48).
Dist. fr.
Leesburg.
Dirt. fr.
Lane Park.
Diet. fr.
Ocala.
Diet. fr.
Brookeville.
48 lakp: county.
Tho iiiiiin line Florida Southern Eailway (J., T. &, K. W.
Rystoni), from Ocala, Marion Coiinty, and beyond, has stations
within and near the county as follows :
21 ... . South Lake Weir (Marion Co.) 53
24 Conant 50 N
26 Lady Lake 48 a
29 Chetwynd 45 i
30. . . .Fruitland Park 44
34 LeeHburg ' 40
36. . . .Corleys 38
38... Helena 36 I
V 39 Okahumpka ' 35
S 44....Casous 30 |
48 .... Centre Hill (Sumter Co.) 26
1 Conuects witb J., T. & K. W. to Fort Mason (see p. 47) ; F. C. & P. to
Wildwood (see below) ; and Lake Griflin steamboats. For continuation of this
line, see p. 63.
The Sanford & Lake Eustis Eailway (J., T. & K. W. sys-
tem), from Sanford to Tavares, has the following stations near
and within the county :
I 8.,..Markbam 21 -p.
11. ...Ethel 18 -^
Dipt.fr. 16....Wayland 13 '> Dist.fr.
Sanford. J, 19 ... Sorrento 10 | Tavares.
24 ...Mt.Dora 5
V
W
29 Tavares 0
The Southern Division F. C. & P. enters the county from
Sumter County on the west. The stations adjacent to and
within the county are :
I 5 Bamboo (Sumter Co.) IT j^
9 Montclair 13
Dist. fr. 11 . . . . Leesburg ' U '} Dist.fr.
Wildwood. J, 14. ...Sadie 8 Tavares.
o l.'i .... Eldorado 7
22 Tavares 2 0
' Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47^.
2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47).
The Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Eailroad has stations as
follows within and adjacent to the county :
0... Tavares' 32 N
Dist.fr. I 4... Ellsworth 28 a Dist.fr.
Tavares. V 8 Victoria 24 Orlando.
8 10. . . .Gainsboro (Orange Co.) 22 '
I Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47), and F. C. & P. (sec
iOiovc).
LAKE COUNTY— LEE COUNTY. 49
The Tavares, Apopka & Gulf Railroad has stations as fol-
lows :
0.... Tavares ' 29
3.... Ellsworth 25 N
8....Astatula 20 a
Diet. fr. 15.... West Apopka U Diet. £r.
Tavares. 20 .-. . . Montverde 9 Clermont.
V 23. . . .Watts Jc 6
S 27 ...Mineola 2
29... Clermont 0
» Connects with J., T. & K. W. ; Tav., Or. & Atlantic ; and F. C. & P. (see
p. 48).
The Orange Belt Eailroad from St. Petersburg, on Tampa
Bay, to Monroe, Orange County, lias stations near to and
within the county as follows :
92 Cedar Hammock {Sumter Co.) ... 57
I 98 Mascotte 51 W
Dist. fr. I 102.... Sheridan 47 a -nis-f f,.
StPeters- I 107 .... Clermont ' 42 ' -l'^'"- "•
burg. V 109 Mineola 40
E 110... Mohawk 39
116 Killaruey {Orange Co.) 33
Monroe.
' Connects with Tavares, Apopka & Gulf Railroad (see above).
Lee County.
Area. 1,800 sq. m.— Lat. 25° 50' to 26° 58' N.— Long. 81° 40' to 82° 5' W.
—Population (1890), 1,413.— Assessed valuation (1888), $875,834.— County seat,
Myers.
Lee County was formed by act of Legislature in 1887 out
of Monroe County. By a popular vote of the inhabitants it
was named after General Robert E. Lee, the Confederate
leader. Like the adjacent counties of Dade on the east, De
Soto on the north, and Monroe on the south, it still is a
wilderness, mainly fore.st, but opening toward the west into
the vast level savannas and everglades bordering upon Lake
Okeechobee. The fact that until 1887 the county seat (Key
West) was one hundred and eighty-five miles from the north-
ern limit of the county gives an idea of the " magnificent
distances " of this region. Fort Myers, or Myers as it is now
called, is the j^resent county seat.
There are as yet no railroads in this county, the nearest
terminus being at Puuta Gorda, about nine miles north of
the boundary line. Access from that point is easy by means
50
LEE COUNTY.
of steamboats which run down the coast to Naples, and np
the Caloosahatcliee River.
The Gulf coast is well provided with harbors in San Carlos
Bay, Charlotte Harbor, and Ostego Bay.
The Caloosahatcliee River is the most important of the
watercourses, finding its source in Lake Okeechobee and
flowing in a southwesterly direction to the Gulf. For twenty-
three miles from the month it averages more than a mile in
widtli and is navigable for vessels drawing about seven feet.
Above this point it narrows, to about one hundred and
LEE COUNTY— LEON COUNTY. 51
seventy-five feet, becomes deeper, with banks sometimes
ten to twenty feet high and clothed with a dense growth of
virgin forest. The Disston Land Company has straightened
and dee^jened the channels connecting with the great lake,
so that now small steamers can go through to and from the
Kissimmee River, crossing Lake Okeechobee.
The county in general is flat and low, averaging some
thirty feet above tide-water. The soil is well adapted to
vegetables, oranges, pineapples, sugar-cane, and all the
tropical fruits. The lands bordering the Upper Caloosahat-
chee are largely vegetable mould, several feet in depth, and
even in the pine lands muck-ponds are found at short inter-
vals, affording valuable manure. Considerable quantities of
egg-jjlauts and tomatoes are shijjijed to the North in January
and February, and the strawberry, which ripens here in Jan-
uary, is already an important crop.
Stock raising is the most important interest of Lee County,
and from Punta Eassa, at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee,
the annual shipments to Cuba number about 10, 000 head.
Leon County.
Area, 900 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 15' to 30° 41' N.— Long. 84° to 84° 55' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), ir,735.— Pop. (18S0\ 19,662.— Assessed valuation (1888), $2,006,413.
— Elevation, 250 feet, near Tallahassee. — County seat, Tallahassee.
Leon County is one of the oldest and most prosperous in
the State. To the stranger apjDroaching from the generally
level country to the eastward it presents a pleasing variety
of landscape, with its wooded hills and picturesque valleys,
its hard clay roads, its groves of magnolia and live-oak, and
the extensive plantations of cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, and
grain. Pears, peaches, and grapes are profitable crops and
easily cultivated.
The soil is clay and sand, the sand predominating in what
are known as ' ' gray hammocks " while in the rich lands or
•'veritable hammocks," as they are locally termed, red clay
predominates and forms a permanently rich and practically
inexhaustible soil, suitable for almost all agricultural pur-
52
LEON COUNTY.
poses. Beneath this, at a depth of eight or ten feet, is a bed
of liuiestone, through which run .subterranean rivers, and in
which are formed the remarkable "sinks" that are among
the natural curio.sities of tlie region. As a grazing country
Leon County is noted all over this part of the State.
There are several kinds of native grass, which grow with
great luxuriance, and are apparently quite as good for dairy
stock as any of the standard Northern grasses. Among these
are the Bermuda grass, " crab grass," " crow's foot," and
" beggar weed." The last named is a leguminous plant
which springs up without seeding on almost all cultivated
land, after the usual market crop has been haiTested. It
possesses excellent fattening qualities, and if not used for
pasturage forms a fertilizing crop which returns to the sur-
face soil an abundant supply of excellent manure. The
other kinds of grass make good hay when harvested and
cured. All kinds of live stock eat them with avidity, and
thrive as well as on the Northern varieties.
LEON COUNTY. 53
During the existence of negro slavery, Leon Connty was
mainly occnpied by large planters, whose estates covered
thousands of acres, and whose wealth enabled them to live in
true baronial style. Their crops of cotton and tobacco were
hauled to the St. Mark's River and shipped thence to the
markets of the world. Tallahassee, the capital of the State
and the county seat, was the social centre of this life and
still retains many of its former characteristics. The great
plantations are now largely subdivided and sold or let to
small tenants, and the productive energies of the county are
adjusting themselves to the now order of things.
There are several large lakes within the borders of the
county, all of which afford excellent sport for the fisherman,
and to the southward, within easy reach, is an almost un-
broken wilderness, reaching to the Gulf of Mexico, where
there is an abundance of game.
The eastern part of the county is drained by the St. Mark's
River (.see p. 98) and the western part by the Ocklockonee.
Neither of these streams is navigable within the limits of
Leon County.
The "Western Division F. C. & P. crosses the county from
east to west, with stations in and near the county as follows :
I 147 .. . Llovds (Jefferson Co.) 61 ^
Dist.fr. 153....Chaiies 55 , r>,Kffr
Jackson- ' 165 .. . Tallahassee ■ 43 /^ Tjfvpr Tr.
viLe. Z, 174.... Ocklockonee 34 i ■"Jvcr.fi.
^ m ... Midway (Gadsden Co.) 31 '
' Connects with St. Mark's Branch F. R. & N. (see below). For continua-
tion east see p. 43 ; west, see p. 32.
The St. Mark's Branch F. C. & P. south from Tallahassee.
Stations are :
0,... Tallahassee' 21 N
^Ta'lli^' '^ ■■ ■??'»'*■--■ ■■•■•■••■_ 17 A _Bist. f r.
hassee
V 16....Wakulla (irafcM^ia Co.) 5 St. Mark's.
S il....St. Mark's {Wakulla Co.) 0 1
' Connects with Western Division F. C, & P. (see above).
54
LEVY COUNTY.
Levy County.
Area, 940 sq. m.— Lat. 29° to 29" 35' N.— Long. 82° 22' to 83° 5' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), 0,57.').— Registered vote, 1,540.— Pop. (1880), 5,7CT.— Assegsed valua-
tion (1888), $1,101,369.— Elevation, 120 ft., near Bronson.— County seat, Bronson.
Levy County was organized in 1850, and named after a
leading i^olitician of that day, who soon afterward changed
LEVY COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
his name to Yulee. He was a senator of the United States
and prominent in the movement for secession.
A large proportion of the land in Levy County is undulat-
ing pine fore^i with a sandy soil more or less mixed with
loam and underlaid with limestone. It is well ada^sted for
the cultivation of fruits and vegetables. The whole county
LEVY COUNTY— LIBERTY COUNTY. 55
is well within the latitude adapted for orauge culture. The
Suwannee Eiver forms the northwestern boundary, and is
navigable for river steamers, as is the Withlacoochee, which
forms the southeastern boundary. Midway between these
two is the Wacassassa River, navigable for small boats, and
penetrating what is known as the Gulf Hammock, a rich,
fertile tract capable of producing all the farm crops in great
abundance.
The coast is well provided with harbors for small craft,
and at Cedar Key vessels of considerable size can find shelter
and secure anchorage.
The best oysters on the Gulf Coast are found in this vicin-
ity and are shipped in large quantities to other parts of the
State.
The Cedar Key Division F. C. & P. enters the county
from the northeast. Its stations near and within the county
are :
29 Archer {A lachua Co.) 41 -.j p,
I 38....Bronson 32 ^;^
Dist. fr. 50.... Otter Creek 20 '} Dlst. fr.
Waldo. ' 51....Ellzey 19 Cedar Key.
c^TT 60 . . . Rosewood 10
*"^ 70.... Cedar Key 0 '
Connects at Gainesville with J., T. & K. W. system, and with F. C. & P.
(see pp. 4 and 5).
Liberty County.
Area, 800 sq. ni.— Lat. 30° to 30" 40^ N.— Long. 84° 40' to 85° 10' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 1,499.— Pop. (1880), 1,362.— Assessed valuation (1888), $238,012.—
County seat, Bristol.
Liberty County lies between the Apalachieola Eiver on the
west and the Ocklockonee River on the east. The land is for
the most part second and third class pine, with a sandy soil
underlaid with clay. Oranges are successfully cultivated,
and the rivers and lakes abound with fish, but the princiiml
industry is stock-raising, for which the open pine-woods are
admirably suited. No railroads have as yet penetrated
the county, but the Apalachieola River affords steamboat
communication with the Gulf of Mexico and with the Flor-
ida Central &, Peninsula Railroad at River Junction.
Bristol, the county seat, has a population of about three
no
LIBERTY COUNTY.
Imndred souls. In the middle of the county ai'o a number
of small lakes from one to five miles in length. Taluga
JLIBERTY COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
Biver, a tributary of the Ocklockonee, and New River, flowing
directly to the Gulf of Mexico, drain the central portion of
the county.
MADISON COUNTY.
57
Madison County.
Area, 650 sq. m.— Lat. 30" 12' to 30° 3S' N.— Long. 83° W to 83° 50' W.—
Population (1890), 14,28S.— Pop. (ISSO), 14,T98.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,-
500,100. — County seat, Madison,
The eastern half of Madison County is mainly pine land,
and the western is largely hammock of good quality. The
natural division between these two tracts rung irregularly
A Y "-^ L '°~^ " R L.
MADISON COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
north and south. A clay subsoil underlies the whole region,
farther below the surface among the pines than among the
hammocks. In both divisions the soil is productive and so
well adapted to the cultivation of Sea Island cotton that one
of the largest manufacturing houses in the world has estab-
lished a factory at Madison, the county seat. It is claimed
that nearly one-twelfth of the entire long staple cotton crop
of the world is grown in Madison County. The climate can
hardly be considered semi-tropical, but the Gulf of Mexico
58 MADISON COUNTY.
is near enough to prevent destructive frosts, the nights are
generally cool, and the temperature rai'ely rises above ninety
degrees in summer, and the health of the settled jjortions of
the county is exceptionally good. Figs and grapes are
among the most prolific of the fruit crops. Fig-trees grow
without cultivation, reaching in a few years a height of fifteen
to twenty feet, and bearing abundantly. Grapes are raised
in large quantities, including the native scui:)pernong, and
foreign varieties, including the black Hamburg, and the
wine-producing industry has aleady reached respectable pro-
portions. Le Conte pears have been introduced within a
few years, and with peaches can be ripened for the North-
ern markets long before similar fruits come to perfection in
higher latitudes.
The Suwannee and Aucilla Elvers with their tributaries
drain the county, aflbrding abundant water and numerous
mill-sites. In the extreme southern jjortion, and extending
into the neighboring counties of Taylor and Lafayette, i.'^ a
great swamp, known as San Pedro Bay. It has never been
explored beyond a short distance along the edges. The whole
tract, save occasional ridges and islands, is under water, and
four considerable streams flow outward in difl:erent direc-
tions. These are the Finholloway and the Econfenee on
the west, and the Spring Warrior and Steinhatchee on the
east. The "bay" is a noted retreat for large game, including
deer, bear, jianthers, and wolves. It is no trifling matter to
hunt in this region, but with competent guides good sport
may be anticipated.
The "Western Division F. C. & P. bisects the county,
crossing it from east to west, with stations at :
94 Bncki Jc. {Suwannee Co.) 113
I 95....Ellaville 112 E
Dist. f r. I 103 .. . Lees 104 a jj-^t ft-
Jackson- ' 105 .... West Farm 102
ville. V 110. . . .Madison 9T
W 124.... Greenville 83
131 Aucilla {Jefferson Co.) 76
Elver Jc.
For continuation east to Jacksonville, see p. 91 ; west to Tallahassee, Pensa-
cola, etc., see p. 43.
MAXATEE COUNTY.
59
Mauatee County.
Area, 1,330 sq. m.— Lat. 26° 56' to 27° 38' N.— Long. 82" to 82° 50' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 2,899.— Pop. (1880), 3,544.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,257,922.40.
— County seat. Manatee.
Manatee County takes its name from the manatee, or sea-
cow, an animal formerly abundant along the coasts of Flor-
ida, but now nearly extinct (see p. 218). Lying mainly be-
tween the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth parallels of
latitude, it is semi-tropical in all its climatic characteris-
tics, and being on the coast its range of temperature is still
further modified by the equalizing influence of the Gulf.
GO MANATEE COUXTV.
Wilhout projiulico to otlier sections it may Ije said that tlin
county contains a greater area of strictly arable land than
any other county south of the twenty-eighth parallel. There
is a great variety of soil ranging from rich hammocks to
worthless swamps, but the greater part is pine land capable
of more or less successful cultivation according to location.
Some excellent farms have been oj^ened in the flat woods,
and crops can be grown out of doors the whole year round.
The i^rairie lands, of which there are tens of thousands
of acres, are believed to be productive, but at latest ail-
■saces no considerable attempt has been made to cultivate
them.
The garden section of the county is aloug the Manatee
Biver, which is bordered by some of the richest hammock
laud in the State, and smaller hammocks and "bays" exist
all through the piney region.
Early vegetables for the Northern markets are cultivated
with great success.
The coast extends from Tampa Bay on the north to the
headwaters of Charlotte Harbor on the south. It includes
the mouth of the Manatee River and Sarasosta Bay with its
outlying keys, and affords an unsurpassed cniising-ground
for pleasure craft suited to the navigation of these shallow
waters. Fish, oysters, and turtle abound, the tarpon may
be caught with the rod, and the devil-fish may be hari^ooned
out in the Gulf. The keys are many of them quite high
and well adapted for residence and the cultivation of the
more tender sub-tropical fruits.
The nearest railway connections are at Tampa, and St.
Petersburg on the north and Punta Gorda on the south, with
which points there is constant communication by coasting
steamers running to the river towns on Manatee and Sara-
sosta Bay.
The county is a great cattle range, with its jorincipal ship-
ping point at Charlotte Harbor (see Route 81). The fishing
is good in all the lakes and streams as well as along the coast,
and deer are found within a few miles of any of the settle-
ments. The Manatee and the Myakka Rivers are navigable
for small boats far up into the interior, and these aflTord the
MANATEE COUNTY— MARION COUNTY. 61
easiest access to the best Imutiug-grounds, since camp equip-
age cau be more easily carried by boat than by any otlier
means of transportation.
Mariou County.
Area, 1,55T eq. m.— Lat. 28° 55' to 29° 30' N.— Lonff. 81° 35' to 82" 32' W.—
Populatlou (1890), 20,T83.— Pop. (1S80), 13,046.— Assessed valuation (1888), $4,-
222,200.— County seat, Ocala.
Marion County lies on tlie central ridgo of the Florida
Peninsula, the natural drainage being toward the Atlantic on
the east, and toward the Gulf of Mexico on the west. The
extent from north to south is thirty-eight miles, from east
to west fifty-four miles, and ifc is one of the richest orange-
growing counties in the State, possessing besides some of the
most attractive natural sceneiy and many of the most popu-
lar winter resorts.
The land is divided into the usual grades of hammock,
first, second, and third class pine and scrub, the last named,
however, being confined almost wholly to the townships
lying east of the Ocklawaha River, omitting, however, the
bend of the stream from Moss Bluff to Eaton, where there
are high rolling hills and excellent soil. The rest of the
county is very attractive, even to one who sees it only from
a passing train. The gently swelling hills clothed with oj^en
woods, and often carpeted with green grass, suggest, even in
midwinter, some of the most beautiful parts of the North.
There is an almost total absence of the scrub palmetto, witli
which the traveller becomes so familiar as the almost ever-
present undergrowth of the pine forests, and while there are
wide reaches of inferior pine barrens, the general impression
conveyed is of a naturally rich and productive country. The
native growth of wild orange -trees suggested grafting to the
first settlers, and the result has been some of the finest
groves in the State, or even in the world. In 1889 valuable
phosphate beds were discovered in the southwestern part of
the county. Their extent is not definitely determined.
Of veritable high hammock land it is estimated that
Marion County contains nearly one hundred thousand acres,
(52
MARION COUNTY.
covered with a ricli and practically inexhaustible regetable
mould. These lands were under cultivation by the aborig-
inal races long before Eui'opeans came, and here the Sem-
inoles made their most resolute stand against the United
States forces during the war that resulted practically in their
extermination or expulsion.
MARION COUNTY.
60
o
Orange Lake, Lake Weir, Lake Kerr, Lake Biyant, and
countless smaller bodies of water are within the borders of
the county, and Lake George, forming part of the St. John's
Kiver, touches its eastern boundary. The Ocklawaha River
runs across the county from south to north, navigable for the
entire distance. To this stream are tributary. Silver Spring
Eun, navigable to its source, and Orange Creek, the outlet
of Orange Lake. The "Withlacoochee River defines the
southwestern boundary, with Blue River, a wonderfully beau-
tiful " spring run" as a tributary.
The main line of the Florida Soiithern Railway (J., T. & K.
W. system) enters the county from Palatka, etc., on the
north. The stations near and within the county are :
45... Micanopy Jc. (Alachua Co.) 101
4T Boardman 99 N
49. . . . Mcintosh 9T a
52....Lochbie 94
Diet. fr.
Palatka.
55 Oak Lawn ' 91
5T. . . Reddick 89
63.... Martin 83
TO....F. C. & P. CrosBing.. T6
72....0cala'' 74
82. . . . Welshton 64
85. . . .Candler 61
88 Oklawaha 58
89 . . .Weir Park 57
93 . . . .South Lake Weir 53
96 Conant {Lake Co.) 50
Diet. fr.
Brooks ville
• Branch east to Citra, 6 m. (see helow).
2 Connects with Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf Railway (see p. 64), and South-
em Division F. C. & P. (see below).
For continuation south, see p. 48 ; north, see p. 4.
The Soutliern Division F. C- & P. crosses the outlet of
Orange Lake from Alachua County on the north. Its sta-
tions in and near Marion County are :
Dist. fr.
Femandina.
111.... Citra' 67
117....Sparr8 61
120. . . .Anthony 58
124. . . .Spring Park 54
126 ... . Silver Spring Jc. 2 52
130....Ocala3 48
141 ... Belleview 37
146 .. . Summerfield S2
151 ... . Oxford {Sumter Co.) 27
Dist. fr.
Tavares.
' Branch west to Oak Lawni, 6 m. (see above).
2 Branch west to Silver Siiring, 1 m.
3 Connects with J., T. & X. W. system (above) ; Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf
Railway to Homosassa (see p. 64).
04 MARION COUNTY— MONROE COUNTY.
The Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf Railroad runs southwest
from Ocala. Its stations in and near the county are :
0... Ocala" 48
I 3 Apnew 45 NE
8....Martel 40 a n-ot fr
is.t. fr. 13)^. Lcroy 34J.^ 1 ^q'":
"='^'"- i 20,.. ^r'^^} 2^"^ --
SW 26....Dunel!on 22 |
34 Citronelle ( Citrus Co.) 14
1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system, and F. C. & P. (see p. 63).
Monroe County.
Area, land and water, 2,600 sq. m.— Lat. 24" 30' to 25' 50' N— Long. 80° 40'
to 82° 55' W.— Population (1890), 18,T64.— Assessed valuation, $1,408,458.—
County seat, Key West.
The county as it exists is far smaller than prior to 1887,
when the whole northern portion, now Lee County, was
separated for convenience of administration. The popula-
tion prior to the division was 10,940 (1880).
Nearly one-half of the present county is on the main pen-
insula of Florida, the most southerly portion of the territory
of the United States. The rest comprises the long line of
kej's and reefs that reach from Cape Florida on the east
coast of the peninsula to Key West and the Dry Tortugas
in the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of about one hundred and
forty miles. The peninsula section is almost uninhabited,
and has been only partially surveyed, owing to the nature of
the country, w'hich has not yet joroved inviting to settlers,
save hunters or fishermen. The northern and western part
of this tract is more or less available as a cattle range, but to-
ward the coast innumerable bayous wind in and out, forming
a labyrinth known as the Ten Thousand Islands. This re-
gion has been partially mapped by the United States Coast
Survey. It affords an attractive cruisiug-ground for sports-
men provided with small boats. The more imi^ortant part
comprises the chain of keys or islands, almost wholly com-
posed of coralline rock, which sweeps in a grand curve around
the end of the peninsular and forms the northern bank of
the Gulf stream, at its very source.
Monroe County lies between the twenty-fourth and twenty
65
oi-
ler
da
ift,
in-
ice
as
m-
lid
c
ty,
er-
is
)st
ed
Qd
3t,
Qe
2,-
P.
a,
ts
■'s
Q-
le
MONROE COUNTY— NASSAU COUNTY. 65
sixth parallels of latitude. Frost is unknown within its bor-
ders, its vegetation is strictly tropical, and its climate milder
than any other part of the Atlantic seaboard.
The keys (Spanish, cayo, island) are at once an aid and a
menace to navigation. They afford shelter to small craft,
but the channels are so tortuous that they are extremely dan-
gerous for large vessels. Coral reefs approach the surface
at intervals throughout a wide belt of ocean. As soon as
they are built up to within a few feet of the surface man-
groves take root and in a few years the foundation is laid
for a new island.
Key West (see p. 323), is the only large city in the county,
and the only point to and from which there is at present any
regular means of access. Eailroads there are none, except
tramways at Key West, but the possibility of a southern ter-
minus for a line down the eastern coast of the peninsula is
in contemplation. Turtle Harbor being regarded as the most
favorable locality. It has even been seriously suggested
that a line carried on trestles from key to key is not beyond
the resources of modern engineering.
Several lines of ocean steamers touch regularly at Key West,
and there are mail packets once a week thence to Biscayne
Bay and the intermediate Keys.
Nassau Coiiuty.
Area, 600 sq. m.— Lat. 30" 15' to 30° 45' N.— Long. 81° 26' to 82° 5' W.—
Population (1890), 8,293.— Pop. (1880), 6,635.— Assessed valuation (1888), $2,-
564,351.— Highest elevation, 25 to 30 feet. — County seat, Femandina. See p.
127.
Nassau County, named by its early settlers after William,
Prince of Nassau, is the northeastern county of Florida. Its
northern and western boundary is defined by the St. Mary's
Eiver, sejiarating it from Georgia, and navigable for steam-
boats as far as Trader's Hill, thirty miles from the sea. The
Nassau Eiver, with its affluent, Thomas Creek, forms nearly
the .whole of its southern boundary.
The soil varies from the clays and marls of the river-bot-
toms to sandy loam and sand near the coast and among the
66
NASSAU COUNTY.
pines of the interior. The immediate sea-coast is formed by
Amelia Island. It is covered with calcareous sand and is
one of the islands where the famous long staple sea-island
cotton originated. Similar soil is found along some of the
sea-coast rivers, often in connection with what are known as
" fresh marsh and black rush lands," which are considered
very valuable for gardening.
Corn, cotton, and oats are the principal commercial pro-
ducts, and early vegetables, strawberries, and melons are suc-
cessfully raised for the Northern markets. Many of the
semi-tropical fruits can be grown, but not with sufficient
certainty to make them profitable crops.
The Savannah, Florida & Western Railroad, the main ave-
NASSAU COUNTY.
67
nue of commerce between Florida and the North, enters the
county at the northwestern angle, running in a southeasterly
direction to Jacksonville, in Duval, the adjacent county.
Stations near and within the county are :
Dist. fr.
VV^ay
Cross.
35 Folkston (Georgia) 41
1 40 Boulogne 36
1 46....Hilliard 30
V 56.... Callahan ' 20
SW 64. . . .Dinsmore (Duval Co.) 12
76 JackBonville '■* (Duval Co.) 0
NW
A
Dist. fr.
Jack-
sonville.
' Crosses F. R. & N., Southern Division (see below).
2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system F. C. & P. (see pp. 25 and 26) ; Jack-
sonville, Mayport & Pablo Railway (see p. 26). Also with ocean steamers to the
North, St. John's River steamboats.
The Southern Division F. 0. & P. (Fernandina to Orlando)
has the following stations in and near the county :
Dist. fr.
Fer-
nandina.
SW
0 Fernandina ' 4T
11 ... . Hart's Road Jc. ^ 36
19. ...Italia 28
27 ... . Callahan 3 23
32 . . . Crawford 15
37 ...Dutton 10
41 . . Brandy Branch 6
47 Ba'.dwiu ■> (Dttvai Co.) o
NE
A
Dist. fr.
Baldwin.
' Connects with ocean steamers.
" Connects with Jacksonville & Fernandina Branch F. R. & N. (see below).
= Crosses S. F. & W. Ry., Jacksonville Division (see above).
•• Connects with Western Division F. C. & P. (see p. 7).
The Jacksonville and Fernandina Division F. C. & P. runs
nearly north from Jacksonville to Hart's Road, thence east to
Fernandina. Its stations are :
Dist. fr.
Jack-
sonville.
0 Jacksonville ' 37
5 Jacksonville Jc 32
15. . . .Duval 22
27.... Hart's Road 2 10
37.... Fernandina 5 0
Dist. fr.
Fernandina.
> Connects with railroads and steamers out of Jacksonville (see pp. 25 and !
2 Connects with Southern Division F. C. & P. (see above).
3 Connects with ocean steamers.
68
ORANGE COUNTY.
Oraii?^e County.
Area, 1,250 sq. m.— Lat. 28" 20' to 28° 52' N.— Long. 80° 50' to SI'' 40' W.—
Population (1890), 12,5T9.— Pop. (1880), 6,618.— Assessed valuation, $4,652,573.
— County 8eat, Orlando.
Orange County, as its name implies, is in the central orange
belt of the peninsula, and includes some of the most exten-
sive groves in the State. The head waters of the St. John's
Kiver form its eastern boundary, and a group of lakes adds
greatly to the natural attractions of the region. Lake
ORANGE COUNTY. 09
Apopka, lying mainly within the western boundary of the
county, is second in size only to Okeechobee, and Lakes
Monroe, Jessu^j, Harney, Butler, Conway, Maitland, and
many othei*s, range from a few acres up to thousands of
acres in extent. Almost without exception the land rises
from the water in gently rolling hills, securing immunity
from malarial influences and affording unsurpassed sites for
homes and for the cultivation of the various crops.
The face of the country is varied and the soil con-esponds.
There are high and low hammocks, high, medium, and flat
pine lands, bay-heads and savannahs, all of which are cajaable
of different uses for the agriculturist and horticulturist. A
l^artial list of the fruits that can be successfully and profit-
ably grown in this county includes oranges, lemons, limes,
grape-fruit, shaddock, citron, guava, pineapples, pomegran-
ates, Japanese plums, figs, etc. Rice, sugar-cane, cassava,
strawberries, plums, and early vegetables are cultivated with
success.
The central and northwestern townships are the most at-
tractive, and contain most of the population. Toward the
east and south there are few or no settlements and an abun-
dance of game during the winter months.
The larger lakes and the St. John's Eiver above Lake
Monroe are navigable for launches and small craft, but there
are at j^resent no regular boats running above Sanford.
The main line of the J., T. & K. W. system enters the
county from the north, with stations in and near Orange
County as follows :
Dist.fr. I 0 Enterprise Jc' (Fo^jwza Co.) 7 N -r,, . ^
Enterprise V 4....Monroe2 3 a Worrt
J» 8 7.... Sanford 3 0 | ^a^^orQ-
' Connects Indian River Branch J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 97).
2 Connects Orange Belt Railroad (see p. 70).
3 Connects South Florida Railway (see p. 70) ; and Sanford & Indian River
Railway (see p. 71).
For continuation of this line north, see p. 97 ; south, see below and p. 70.
The South Florida Railway, connecting with the J., T.
& K. W. system at a station used in common, has stations as
follows within and near the countv :
70
ORANGE COUNTY,
Dist. fr.
Sanford.
15.
18.
20.
21.
24.
26.
30..
32..
34..
39 .
' Connects J. ,
Dist. fr.
St. Peters-
burg.
0. . . .Sanford ' 124
3....Belair 121 N
5 . . . . Lake Mary 119 a
10 Long wood ^ . 114
13 ... Altainonte Spring Ill Dist.fr.
15....Maitland 109 Port
IS.... Winter Park 106 Tampa.
22.... Orlando s 102
V 27 Pine Castle 97
S 34....McKinnon 90
40 . ..Kiesimmee ■• (O.sreote Co.) 84
' Connects J.. T. & K. W. system (p. 69), and Sanford & Indian River Kail-
way (p. 71), and St. John's River steamboats,
'■i Connects Florida Midland Railway (below).
3 Connects Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Railway.
* Connects Kissimmee River steamers.
The Orange Belt Bailroad, Monroe to Petersburg on Tampa
Bay, has stations in and adjacent to tlie county as follows:
0 Monroe ' 149
2....Svlvan Lake 147 NE
4 ...PaoJa^ 145 A
6. . . .Island Lake 143
9. . . . Glen Ethel 140
11 ... . Groveland 138
12. . . .Palm Springs ^ 137
— Granada —
Dist. fr. 15.... Forest City 134
Monroe. 18. . . .Toronto - 131
. . . Lakeville 129
. . . Clarcona ^ 12S
. . .Millerton 125
...Crown Point 123
.Winter Garden 119
. . .Oakland 117
. . . Killamy 115
...Mohawk {Sumter Co.) 110
T, & K. W. Bvstem (see p. 69).
s Crosses Sanford & Lake Eustis Branch J.. T. & K. W. system.
3 Crosses Florida Midland Railway (see below).
* Connects Tavares. Or:ando & Atlantic Railway.
* Crosses Florida Midland Railway.
For continuation southwest, see p. 87.
The Florida Midland Railway lies ■wholly within the coun
ty. Its stations are :
0 Longwood ' 27
3 ...Palm Springs 2 24 N
4 Altamonte 23 a •
6. . . .Lake Brantly 21
8....Fitzville 19
10... East Apopka 17
11 ... . Apopka 3 16
15 Clarcona * 12
18.... Villa Nova .9
20.... Oconee 7
V 21....Minorville 6
S 23....Gotha 4
27 Englewood 0
' Connects J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 69).
"Crosses Oranire Belt Railway (see above).
5 Crosses Tavares. Orlando &"Atlantic Railway.
* Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see above).
V
sw
Dist. fr.
Longwood.
Dist. fr.
Englewood.
ORANGE COUNTY— OSCEOLA COUNTY.
71
The Sanford & Indian River Eailroad (S. F. Ry.
is completed to Lake Charm. The stations are :
0. . . . Sanford 19
2 SpeerGrove 17 N
3....FortKeed 16 ^
3.5 ...Onoro 15.5
4 Silver Lake 15
D:st.fr. 5....Rutledge 14
Sanford. 6... Lords 13
T....Clyde8 12
12....CUfton T
V 14....Tnscawilla 5
S io jOviedo, \
^^- • tLake Charm j"
system),
0
Diet. fr.
Lake
Charm.
Osceola Coiintj.
Area, 2,520 sq. m.— Lat. 27° 10' to 28° 30' N.— Long. 80° 50' to 81° 35' W.—
Popu'.ation (1890), 3,122.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,667,895.— County seat,
Eissimmee.
Osceola County, named after the famous Seminole Chief,
was formed by act of the State Legislature in 1887, from
l^arts of Orange and Brevard Counties. A series of large
lakes, Tohopekaliga, Cypress, Hatcheneka, and Kissimmee,
connected by canals and natural channels, form the head-
■waters of the Kissimmee River, flowing southward to Lake
Okeechobee, and thence through the Caloosahatchee River
to the Gulf of Mexico. This whole system of inland water-
courses is navigable to Kissimmee at the head of the chain
of lakes. The surface of the country is generally level or
slightly rolling, with vast tracts of rich, low-lying prairie
land. The soil is especially adapted to the cultivation of
vegetables, which can be brought to perfection, in ordinary
seasons, in January and February.
The latitude of the northern extremity of the county is 28'^
30', assuring almost entire freedom from frosts and an abun-
dance of grass for stock-raising during the whole year. A
large number of cattle, sheep, and swine range the woods with-
out shelter, and are " rounded up " at stated seasons, afford-
ing one of the most profitable industries of the county.
Large quantities of sugar-cane have been planted on the re-
cently reclaimed lands, with every prospect of a speedy and
bountiful yield.
72
ORCEOLA COUNTY.
The temperature at Kissimmee rarely rises above 90° in
the summer, and the natural healthfulness of the locality
— i; — 1- -7f-f^^
1 Shingle Cr rf' o
•Ft.Daveuport '
D E SOTO
OSCEOLA COUNTY
SCALE OF MILES
I— I 1-^ I— I ^ r— i-i
0 5 10
has been singularly confirmed by the experience of the white
OSCEOLA COUNTY. 7,3
age company. Since 1881 these men have been employed
without intermission, even in summer, and have enjoyed un-
interrupted health. Not a single death had occuiTed up to
March, 1889, and it had never been necessary to send for a
physician. As the work is carried on in a region usually
supposed to be highly malarial, this record is certainly note-
worthy.
Osceola County is settled only at its northern extremity.
To the south of Lake Tohopekaliga the wilderness is almost
unbroken. Game abounds, and a large part of the egion is
accessible in small boats by taking advantage of the creeks
and numerous small lakes that abound throughout this re-
gion.
Within a few years past large drainage operations have
been undertaken under State patronage by the Okeechobee
Drainage Company, which have reclaimed extensive tracts of
land in Osceola County, and bid fair largely to increase the
sugar product of the State.
The South Florida Railway from Orange County on the
north crosses the northwest corner of the county with sta-
tions near and within the boundaries as follow :
I 34 McKinnon (Orange Co.) 90 N t,. . ^
Dist.fr. I 40....Iiissimmee 84 a ^l|'-"-
Sauford. V 44. . ..Cambells 80 i rp "
S 57....Davenport (Poit Co.) 6T | -lampa.
For continuation of this line north, see p. TO ; south, see p. 79.
74
PASCO (JOUNTY.
Pasco County.
Area, 1,700 sq. m.— Lat. 23" 9' to 28" 29' N.— Long. 82° to 82" 4^ W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 4,249.— Assessed valuation (1888), $954,329.— County seat, Dade
City.
This county was formed in 1887 from the southern part of
Hernando County. In soil and climate it is among the most
favored of the Gulf counties, lying just above the twenty-
eighth parallel of latitude and within the influence of the
warm Gulf breezes. For the most part the soil is naturally
of the better grade of pine lands, underlaid with clay, marl,
and limestone. There are large areas of rich hammock, es-
i:)ecially in the western townships, which send some of the
most noteworthy exhibits to the annual fair at Ocala.
Cotton, oats, rice, corn, and sugar-cane, are the staple^
and all kinds of vegetables have been introduced within the
past few years. The Pithlaschoscootee and Anclote Rivers
drain the eastern jiart of the county, and the Withlacoochee
and Hillsborough drain the western part. In some sections
the land rises to the height of eighty or ninety feet above
tide-water, and the high hammocks are covered with a mag-
nificent growth of hard wood.
The hunting and fishing are good, but for large game it is
necessary to go ten or twelve miles from the railroads, and
guides with camping outfits are indispensable for strangers.
The Orange Belt Railway enters from Hernando County
on the north and crosses it southwest and northeast. The
stations adjacent to and within the county are :
Diet. fr.
Monroe.
V
sw
66 Wyoming (Hernando Co.) 83
71 Lacoochee ' 78
73.... Macon a 76
75 . . . Leonard 74
78....Blanton 71
79....Cliipco 70
84 San Antonio 65
88.... Pasco 61
91 . . Big Cypress 58
98 . . . Drexel •. 51
106 ...Odessa 43
117 Tarpon SpTings(Hilhborough Co.)32
NE
A
Dist. fr.
St. Pet-
ersbui"g.
1 Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see p. 76).
2 Crosses J., T. & K. W. (see p. 76).
For continuation nortb, see p. 35 ; south, see p. 38.
22.
I 23.
Dist. fr.
1 30.
Wildwood.
V 31; .
S 44.
Gl.
70 I'ASCO COUNTY— POLK COUNTY.
The Tanii)a l>raiich of tlio F. C. & P. enters from Hernando
County on the north. Stations in and near the county are :
. . .Withliicoochee {Sumter Co.) 39
. . . Lacoochee ' 33 N
, . . Owensboro 2 31 a DiKt. fr.
..Dade City 2.5 j Plant City.
...Abbott 17 I
, . .Plant City {Hillsborough Co.) 0
' Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see p. 74).
'■J Crosses J., T. & K. W. (see below).
For continuation north, see p. 35.
The Pemberton Feriy Branch of the South Florida Pail-
way (J., T. k K. W. system) has stations within and near
the county at :
. .Bay City {Hernando Co.) .51
..Macon 47 N
.. Orange Belt Jc. ' 4G a
. . Owensboro '■' 45
. . Dade City 41
. Ellerslie 35
..Richland 34 I
. . Tedderville 25 |
..Kathleen {Polk Co.) 20
' Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see p. 74).
2 Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see above).
For continuatiou north, see p. 35 ; south, see p. 80.
6..
10..
11..
Dist. fr.
12..
Pemberton
16..
Ferry.
22..
k' 23..
f
i 32..
37..
Dist. fr.
Bartow.
Polk County.
Area, 1,980 sq. m.— Lat. 27° 35' to 28° 10' N.— Long. 81° 25' to 82" 2' W.—
Population (1890), 7,897.— Pop. (1880), 3,181.— Assessed valuation, $3,500,000.—
County seat, Bartow.
The county was formed in 1859, by act of the State legis-
lature, from portions of the large neighboring counties of
Hillsborough, Orange, and Sumter, but its organization was
interrupted by the Civil War, and not perfected, in its pres-
ent .shape until 1874. It is named after James K. Polk, elev-
enth President of the United States. The twenty-fifth par-
allel of latitude runs nearly through the middle of the county.
It was settled mainly by cattle men, who had served in the In-
dian wars and noted the natural advantages of the country.
Its average elevation above the sea is estimated at 150 feet,
and its greatest elevation, according to the levels run by the
engineers of the South Florida Railroad, is 235 feet. Nearly
one-fifth of the surface is water, in lakes of every conceivable
POLK COUNTY. <7
size and shape, from Lake Kissimmee, eighteen miles long,
down to little pools too small to be shown on the map, but
sometimes indicated by a dot. As a rule, these lakes are full
of pure, clear water, and well stocked with fish. Most of
them are deep enough to deserve the name of lakes or
l^onds, but some are little better than savannahs. The lake
region iiroper lies in the middle of the county. The north-
POEK CO.
ern portion of this region is high rolling land, the bluffs ris-
ing sharply from the lake shores sometimes as much as sixty
feet. These afford an endless niimber of excellent building
sites, with the advantage, somewhat unusual in Floi'ida, of a
decided elevation.
The land is sandy and sandy loam, and the usual variety of
high and low hammock and the three grades of pine land are
well distributed over the countv. Toward the south the
7S I'OLK COUNTY.
face of the country is more generally level, and prairies are
more frequent.
Tlie Kissimmco Iliver, hero mainly a succession of lakes,
is navigable to the Gulf of Mexico through Lake Okeechobee
and tho Caloosahatchee River. Peace River is navigable for
small boats to Fort Meade. This stream falls into Char-
lotte Harbor on the Gulf of Mexico. Its tributaries, with
those of the Alalia and the Withlacoochee Rivers, drain a
wide region in the southern and western part of the couniy.
The best grade of pine lands in this region are considered
most desirable for agricultural purposes, because, under
judicious cultivation, their productiveness seems to increase,
while the high hammocks deteriorate after a few years of
astonishing productiveness. The dryer kinds of low ham-
mock are prized for general farming and garden crops, es-
pecially the early vegetables that are becoming such an im-
portant factor in the commerce of the State.
The timber is mainly pine and cypress, but all the hard
woods are found in the hammocks.
The summer temperature ranges from 86' to 97° at mid-
day, falling some twenty degrees during the night. In the
winter the ordinary range is from 45° to 75°, with, however,
occasional northers, when the thermometer drops very sud-
denly to the freezing-point. After the first of February im-
munity from frost is almost certain, and the thermometer
ranges from 60° to 78°. The rainy season begins in June
and lasts till the middle or end of September, rain falling, as
a rule, almost every day.
The vital statistics of the county show that general health
is good, the death-rate from ordinary diseases very low.
The county commissioners of Polk County certify the follow-
ing list of its products: Corn, oats, rye, pumpkins, squashes,
beans in variety (tho snap and lima runners being very pro-
lific), peas (in variety), i^otatoes, beets, carrots, onions, pars-
nips, egg-plant, cucumbers, cantaloupes, water-melons, cab-
bages, collards, cauliflower, kohl-rabi, ruta-bagas, turnips,
pepper, okra, tomatoes, lettuce, salsify, spinach, miistard,
sorghum, sugar-cane, cassava, arrow-root, ginger, chufas,
pindars or ground peas, goubers, grass-nuts, pie melon, etc.
POLK COUNTY. i'J
Of plants and herbs, sweet marjoram, thyme, tea-plants,
castor-bean, and benue. Of fruits, orange, sweet, bitter-sweet,
and sour; lemons, limes, grapes, peaches, LeConte and avo-
cado pears, tiger api^les, sugar apples, citron, shaddocks,
grape-fruit, mangoes, Japan plums, bananas, pineapples,
guavas, plums, j^omegranates, figs, olives, and pecans.
Many of these are not recommended as profitable crops.
The list is given to show the possible range of agricultural
resources.
The Polk County region was a favorite hunting and farm-
ing ground of the aboriginal races, and mounds and other
evidences of prehistoric habitations are found. "When the
United States surveys were made in 184:8 numerous evi-
dences existed of extensive cultivation, but the luxuriant
forest growth has nearly obliterated most of them at the
present time.
The South Florida Railway enters the county from Pagco
County (northwest), and Osceola County (northeast), ita
branches forming a triangle in the heart of the county. The
main line has stations near and within the county as follows :
42 ... Campbells (Osceola Co.) 71
50... Lake Locke... 63 NE
54 Emmanton 61 /\
57 . . Davenport 58 I
61... Haines City 54 1
68. . . .Bartow Jc. ' 47 Diet. fr.
72 ...Anburndale 43 Port
77 ... . Fitshughs 38 Tampa.
81 Acton 34
83 Lakeland = 32
V 93.... Plant City 22
SW 115. ...Tampa 9
124. . . .Port Tampa 0
DIst. fr.
Sanford.
" Connects Bartow Branch (see below).
^ Connects Pemberton Ferry Branch (see p. 80).
The Bartow Branch stations are :
I 0 Bartow Jc.i IT -kjtj"
■n:„(. f- 5 ... Winter Haven 12 . T^• f
RortV/wTn v 9.... Eagle Lake 8 ^^ , ^'^V
BartowJc. V 2,...Go?don8ville .5 fr. Bartow.
°^ IT.... Bartow •■' 0 I
I Connects with main line to Tampa, south, and Sanford, northeast.
- Connects F. S. (J., T. & K. W. system) for Punta Gorda, Charlotte Harbor,
etc.
80 rOLK COUNTY— PUTNAM COUNTY.
The Pemberton Ferry Branch has stations near and within
Polk County as follows :
23 ... . Richlaud (Pasco Co.) 31
I 32. . . .Tedderville 22 NNW
Dist.fr 37 .... Kathleen 17 a Dist. fr.
Pemberton 1 40 . . . Griffin's Mill 17 I Pimta
Ferry. V 43 . . . Lakeland ' 14 Bartow.
S8E 51.... Haskell 6 |
57....Bartow2 0
■ Crosges J., T. & K. W. from San ford and Tampa.
'^ Connects Bartow branch and 1'". S. Ky. to Punta Gorda.
Putnam County.
Area, 860 sq. m.— Lat. 29" 20' to 29" 50' N.— Long. 81" 25' to 82" 2' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 11,166.— Pop. (1880), 6,261.— Assessed valuation (1888), $4,130,503.
—County seat, Palatka.
Putnam County is one of several organized in 1847, after
the first Seminole war. It is named after General Israel
Pufrnam, of the Revolutionary Army. The shajje is very ir-
regular, some of the boundaries being crooked rivers, and
others arbitrary lines. As is often the case in Florida, it is
impossible to give a general statement of the topography.
The great river St. John's divides the county into two por-
tions, of which the western is by far the larger. Orange
Creek, the navigable outlet of Orange Lake, just over the
line, in Alachua County, joins the Ocklawaha Eiver at the
southern boixler, and together they form a considerable
stream tributary to the St. Johns, and one of the famous
tourist routes of Florida (Route 181). Except in the im-
mediate vicinity of the water-courses the western part of the
county is gently undulating, covered with heavy pine forests,
which are rapidly giving way to orange groves. Through
this compairatively low region there runs an elevated rolling
plateau, ten or fifteen miles wide, and in some places said
to be two hundred feet above tide-water. This plateau is
dotted all over with lakelets, surrounded by wooded hills.
Here and there are prairies and swamps of moderate extent.
An attractive section of the county is the Fruitland Penin-
sula, a tract of land eight or ten miles wide, somewhat re-
sembling the plateau just described lying between the St.
John's River on the west and Crescent Lake on the east. Its
PUTNAM COUNTY.
81
surface is generally tilly, interspersed with lakes, forests,
and occasiual marslies. The J., T. & K. W. Railway system
passes through the entire length of the peninsula. Crescent
Lake is a navigable body of water, having easy steamboat
connection with the St. John's Eiver through Dunn's Creek,
the outlet at the northern extremity of the lake. To the
north of this stream, still on the east side of the St, John's
Eiver, is a fine orange region, including some of the oldest
and best groves in the State. The St. John's Eiver through-
out this portion of its course is practically a series of lakes,
varying in width from a mile to four miles. It is slightly
affected by the ocean tides as far up as Lake George, and the
current is nowhere so rapid as to interfere with the use of
small boats as a convenient means of travel.
The main line (J., T. & K. W. system) from Jacksonville
82
PUTNAM COUNTY— SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY.
DiBt. fr.
San ford-
and the north crosses the county nearly north and south.
Stations are as follows :
41 . . .West Tocoi {Clay Co.) . . .84
46 ...Bostvvick 78 N
49 Teiisdale 75 a
52. . . .Sauble 72
55 I'alatka Junction 69
56....Palatka i 68
58....Lundy 66
Dist. fr. 60 Peniel 64
Jack- 63 . . . .Buffalo Bluff 61
Bonville. 64 Satsuma 60
67....8isco 57
70 Pomona 54
72....0omo 52
75 Huntington 49
V 78 Denver 40
S 82.... Hammond (Volitsm Co.) 42
84.... Seville (Volusia Co.) 41
' Connects St. Aug. & Halifax River Ry. (p. 84) ; St. John's & Halifax River
Ry. (p. 85) ; and F. S. Ry. to Gainesville (see below).
For continuation of main line J., T. & K. W. system, see pp. 16 and 97.
The main line Florida Southern Railway runs east from
Palatka. The stations within the county and just beyond
its western line are :
Dist. fr.
Palatka.
0. . . .Palatka • 47
5 Francis 42
12 . . .HoUister 35
15. . .Manville 32
17 . . .luterlachen 30
19. ..Keuka 28
21... Clark's Mill 26
23 Johnson 24
25. . . .Cooper's Mill 22
26 Cone's Crossing 21
29 . . Colgrove 18
Dist. fr.
Gainesville.
• Connects St. Augustine & Halifax River divisions (see p. 84) ; and with
main line J., T. & K. W., north to Jacksonville, and south to Tampa and Pnnta
Gorda (see above).
Saint John's County.
Area, 1,000 sq. m.— Lat. 29" 22' to 30° 13' N.— Long. 81° 5' to 81° 40' W.—
Population (1890), 8,677.— Pop. (1880), 4,535.— Assessed valuation (1888), $2,250,-
8T0. — County seat, St. Augustine. See p. 133.
St. John's County may almost be termed a peninsula, lying
as it does between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the
St. John's River on the west. Along the river there are valu-
able lands under successful cultivation at many points for
oranges, pears, sugar-cane, vegetables, and the like. A short
distance back from the river the fiat woods appear, succeeded
. JOHNS GO.
SCALE OF MILES
84
SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY.
by belts of rich hammock, which in turn give way to palmetto
scrub that extends to the sea-coast. A few small streams,
tributary to the St. Johns, water the rolling lands along the
river, and others find their way into Matanzas Inlet, Halifax
Eiver, and North River on the coast. Much of the land is,
and probably must remain, worthless, but, thanks to its
climate, the county is one of the most prosperous in the
State, and attracts more tourists than any other section.
This is due to the existence of St. Augustine, where nearly
three centuries ago Europeans first learned the salubrity of
the Floridian climate. The history of St. Augustine is that
of St. John's County, and will be found in the account of
that city.
Fishing is good all along the creeks, inlets, rivers, and
lagoons, and game is to be found by persevering huntsmen,
thanks to the almost impenetrable " scrub " in which deer
and turkeys still find shelter. It is wellnigh useless, how-
ever, to hunt without guides and dogs, and even then hunt-
ing is no child's play.
The harbor of St. Augustine, with its connecting inlets, is
a favorite resort for yachtsmen, and a short day's mn to the
northward ojiens the extensive inland cruising grounds of
the St. John's Eiver and its numerous lakes.
The Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Halifax Eiver Eailway
(J., T, & K. W. system), St. Augustine to Palatka, has
stations as follows :
O....St. AnsustineJ 31
0. . . .New St. Augustine 30 NE
4....TocoiJc 26 a
8. . . . Smith's 22
10. . . . Middleton 20
Dist. fr. 12 Armstrong 18
St.Augus- 14. ...Holy Branch 16
tine. 16.... Quid's 14
18. . . Merrifleld 12
20. . . .Bueua Vista 10
V 21. . . .Pattersonville 9
SW 25. . . .East Palatka Je 6
31.... Palatka- 0
Dist. fr.
Palatka.
1 Connects vith J., T. & K. W. system to Jacksonville (see p. 85).
^ Connects with J., T. & K. W. system to Indian River. Tampa and Pmita
Gorda (see p. 82).
The Jacksonville, St. Augustine tt Halifax Eiver liailwav
SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY— SUMTER COUNTY.
85
(J., T. & K. W. system) is the most direct route between the
two cities. Stations auJ distances follow :
0 Jacksonville ' 37
1.... South Jacksonville S6 NW
3 . . . . Phillips 34 A
5 Bowden 32
9 Summervllle 23
10. . . .Nesbit 2T
Dist.fr. 11. ...Eaton 26 D'st. fr.
Jack- 14 Sweetwater 23 St. Augns-
sonville. 16 Bayard 21 tine.
18 Register 19
19. . . .Clarkville IS
21. . . .Durbin 16
V 28 Sampson 9
SE 32. . . .Magnolia Grove 5
37 St. Augustine- 0
> For railway and steamboat connections see p. 103.
* Connects with line to Palatka, see p. 84,
Sumter County.
Area, 625 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 15' to 28» 57' N.— Long. 81° 55' to 82° 18' W.—
Population (1890), 5,350.— Pop. (1880), 4,686.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,719,-
018. — County seat, SumtervUle.
Sumter County is topographically part and parcel of the
central lake region, and of the large orange-growing counties
of Lake, Marion, Citrus, Hernando, and Pasco. It was orig-
inally organized as a county in 1851, including parts of the
present territory covered by Orange and Polk Counties.
Changes to the present boundaries were made successively
in 1871, 72, '79, and '87. The Withlacoochee Eiver, which
forms the major part of the western boundary, is navigable
to Pembertou Ferry. In the winter of 1888-89, during a
l^eriod of exceptionally high water, a boat crossed from the
vicinity of Lake Panasoflfkee and the Withlacoochee Eiver,
thus demonstrating the possibility of crossing from the
Atlantic to the Gulf. The shooting and fishing are excellent
over a large portion of the county. Near Dragem Junction
is the scene of the massacre of Major Dade and his com-
mand (see p. 305), which was practically the beginning of
the long Seminole war, 1835 to 1842, which nearly exter-
minated the then existing settlements in South Florida.
The Florida Southern Railway (J., T. & K. W. system) en-
SUMTER COUNTY.
ters the coiintv at a i^oint about twelve miles soiithwest from
Leesburg. The stations within the county and near its lim-
its are :
I 115 Cason's (Lake Co.) 31 -^jp,
120.... Centre HiU 26 ^. -n, ^ f,
Dist.fr. 125 ...Webster 21 '^ ^^zll
Falatka. J, 129 . . . . Dragem Jc. i IT 1 J,,r<>
Q^P- 135....Pemberton2 11 ^"^*'-
° " 146 ... . Brooksville (Hernando Co.) 0 '
1 Crosses F. C. & P. (see below).
" Connects with J., T. & K. W. system for Punta Gorda and Tampa.
The southern division F. C. & P. enters the county from
Ocala, Marion County, on the north. Stations adjacent to
and within the county are as follows :
Dist. fr.
Ocala.
N
16 Summerfleld (Marion Co.) 21
21. ...Oxford 16 .
26....Wildwood 1 11 '^
29 Orange Home 8
31. ...Bamboo 6
35 Montclair 2
37 ... . Leesbm-g2 (Lake Co.) 0 '
Dist. fr.
Leesburg.
J Connects with Tampa branch F. C. & P. (see below).
2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. sj'stem (see p. 4T).
The Tampa division F. C. & P. connects with the forego-
ing at Wildwood. The stations are :
O....Wildwood' 61
5 Coleman 56 N
8 Panasoffkee 53 a
DiBt.fr. 9.. . Sumterville Jc 52 Dist. fr.
Wfldwood. 14....Bn8hnell 4T PlantCity.
V 18.... St. Catharine* 43
S 22 . . . .Withlacoochee 39
28 Lacoochee (Hernando Co.) 33
' Connects with F. C. & P. to Leesburg (see above).
2 Crosses J., T. & K. W. system (see above).
The Orange Belt Eailway crosses the southern part of the
county. The stations near and within the county line are :
I 51 Mascotte (La/cfl Co.) 96 p
56 . . Cedar Hammock 91 ■7
Dist.fr. 60....TaiTytown 87 y» Dist. fr. St.
Monroe, w 64 Wyoming 83 Petersburg.
Xr 70.. .Lacoochee' (flernarido Co.) 77
" 71 Macon"-' (//ernando Co.) 76 '
> Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see p. 35).
' Crosses J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 35).
88
SANTA ROSA COUNTY.
Santa Rosa County.
Area, 1,200 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 19' to 30° 58' N.— Long. 80" 38' to 87° 20^ W.—
Populiition (1890), 7,948.— Pop. (1880), 6,645.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,282-
800. —County neat, Milton.
Santa Eosa County, next to the narrow tenitory of Es-
cambia, is the westernmost county in Florida, and was one
of the original civic divisions of the State.
It takes its name from the fine bay discovered by Tristan
de Luna in 1559. Santa Kosa has four navigable rivers,
namely, the Escambia, forming the -western boundary, and
navigable into Alabama ; the Blackwater, draining the north-
ern half of the county, a rich lumber region, sparsely settled,
SANTA ROSA COUNTY— SUWANNEE COUNTY. S9
and affording a fine cattle range ; the Yellow River, crossing
the county diagonally, and forming jiarfc of its eastern
boundary, and East Bay Eiver, parallel to Santa Rosa Sound,
a short distance inland. The lumber and live-stock interests
are the principal industries, sheep raising having of late
years taken a foremost place.
Tlie subsoil is clay with a sandy surface, and rice, corn,
sweet potatoes, oats, Leconte pears, peaches, grapes, and
figs are grown successfully. The pecan tree flourishes and
makes a profitable crop when once the trees are in bearing.
The nuts are quite equal to those grown in Texas. The
finest and oldest grove in the State is in the town of Black-
water.
The Pensacola & Atlantic division of the Louisville &
Nashville Railroad crosses the county on a line running
nearly northeast and southwest. The stations near and
within the county are :
Dist. fr.
River Jc.
V
SW
110 ... Crestview (Walton Co.) 50 .^t,
114....Chaffin'8 46 ■".
122.... Holt's 38 -^
131 . . .Good Range 29
141. ...Milton 19
144 Arcadia 16
152 Escambia {Escambia Co.) 8
Dist. fr.
Pensacola.
For continuation southwest to Pensacola see p. 29 ; east, to River Junction
see p. 101.
Suwannee County.
Area, 750 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 52' to 30° 24' N.— Long. 82° 46' to 83° 18' W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 10,505.— Pop. (1880), 7,161.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,579,988.—
County seat. Live Oalv.
The name Suwannee is of Seminole or Muskhogee origin,
meaning "deep water," and the fine stream that bears it and
gives its name to the county forms the boundary on three
sides. It is navigable for river steamboats as far as White
Springs during the greater part of the year, and with its
numerous tributaries affords many desirable mill sites. The
river gives easy access to the Gulf of Mexico, and the loca-
tion of the county within reach of the sea-breezes from both
directions renders its climate exceedingly equable. The
temperature averages about 50° in the winter months, and in
90
SUWANNEE COUNTY.
Stammer rarely rises higher than 90°, the average being 80°
to 85°.
The soil is a sandy loam with a substratum of clay, fertile
and easy of cultivation. Large tracts of good land are still
open to settlement imder the State and United States laws,
and while considerable portions are held by capitalists, the
prices of land to actual settlers are by no means exorbitant.
The lumber within reach of water or railway transporta-
tion is abundant, and of excellent quality. Hammock lands
SUWANNEE COUNTY. 91
border the water-courses bearing the finest varieties of hard-
wood, as ash, hickory, live oak, red oak, white oak, cherry,
red bay, beach, majjle, and magnolia, while pitch pine and
yellow pine cover thousands of acres of rolling country.
Sea Island cotton was largely cultivated by slave labor be-
fore the Civil War, and now, after a lapse of many years, is
resuming its importance. Some of the leading Northern and
European cotton factors have permanent warehouses at Live
Oak and elsewhere. The total annual shipment of cotton,
accoi'ding to the latest rejjort available, is about three thou-
sand bales. Oranges can be successfully cultivated, but not
with the certainty that obtains in South Florida, and tobacco
is becoming an important and profitable crop. Extensive
plantations of the Leconte pear are in bearing, strawberries
are extremely prolific, and all the small fruits are in a
marketable condition a month ahead of the same kinds in
Delaware, and two weeks in advance of Georgia.
The western division of the F. C. & P. crosses the north-
ern i^art of the county on a line running northwest and
southeast. The stations within the county are :
, 71 — Welbom 94 o^,
Dist. fr. 76... Houston 89 °^ Dist.fr.
Jackson- J, 82. .. .Live Oak" 83 A Talla-
viUe. T^Vrr 92....BuckiJc.=' 73
■^" 95....EIlaviile 70 '
' Crosses Savannah, Florida & Western Railway (see below).
" Connects with Suwamiee River Railroad (see below).
For continuation westward see p. 5S ; eastward, p. 18.
The Gainesville division S., F. & W. Ed. (Savannah, Gra.,
to Gaines\dlle, 249 miles, 9^ hours). Stations within and near
the county are :
Dist. fr.
Savannah,
Ga.
168 Marion (Hamilton Co.) 81
171 Suwannee 77
179 .. . .Live Oak' 70
184 ...Padlock 65
188. .. . Pine Mount 61
190....McAlpin 59
196. ..O'Brien 52
203 . . New Branford^ 46
216 . . .Lake City Jc.^ (Columbia Co.). . .33
• Crosses western division P. C. & P. (see above).
" Connects Suwannee River steamers.
' Connects Lake City division.
Dist. fr.
GaineBvillei
^'2 SUWANNEE COUNTY— TAYLOll COUNTY.
Tlie Suwannee Iliver Kailway runs from Hudson-on-tlie-
Suwanuee to Bucki Junction. It is about twelve miles long,
with no regular stations between termini. "When the Su-
wannee Eiver is low tliis road is convenient for steamboat
connections at New Branford.
Taylor County.
Area, 1.080 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 15' N.— Long. S3° 22' to 84" W.— Popu-
lation (1890), 2,122.— Pop. (1880), 2,2T9.— Asssessed valuation (1888), $270,094.—
County seat. Perry.
Taylor County was organized in 1851, and named after
General Zachary Taylor, the poi^ular hero of the war with
Mexico, 1847-48, and subsequently President of the United
States.
The county has about forty miles of coast on the Gulf of
Mexico, with shallow harbors at the mouths of the Aucilla,
FenhoUoway, and Econfena Elvers, and in Deadman's Bay,
available only for small boats. There are no lighthouses on
this coast. The surface is generally level, intersected with
plentiful streams, some of which afford excellent mill sites,
and in all of which the different varieties of fish are found in
plenty. The piney woods are broken by several large ham-
mocks, the home of bear, deer, panthers, wild-cats, and tur-
keys. The game has not yet been hunted out in this region,
and good sport may be had with the assistance of competent
guides. Along the Gulf the pine lands are veiy poor, but in
the interior they are of good quality, the soil varying from
gray to dark in color, and about two feet deep. The ham-
mocks are a dark sandy loam, unsurpassed in fertility.
As a cattle range the county has always afforded excellent
facilities, owing to the abundant growth of native grasses.
Tlie climate is that of the Gulf coast of Florida, and is
healthy when ordinary judgment is used. Along both banks
of the Econfena River there is a healthy belt ten miles wide,
while along the FenhoUoway it is sickly, the reason being
that in the former case the water is pure, while in the latter
case it is strongly impregnated with lime. In the lime-water
TAYLOR COUNTY.
93
regions cisterns for rain-water are used by prudent residents.
Tlie Econfeua Biver rises in Washington County, soiitlieast
from Oak Hill. Its course is thirty miles from its source to
St. Andrew's Bay, but this is interrupted by Natural Bridge,
fifteen miles from the mouth, to which i:)oint the stream is
navigable. Below the bridge for several miles the voyager
is delighted by the frequent occiirrence of remarkable springs
along the west bank. The lands along this river are of fine
94 TAYLOR COUNTY— VOLUSIA COUNTY.
quality and the locality lias a high reputation for liealthful-
ness. Bear Creek, a navigable tributary, enters the Econfena
from the eastward, about four miles from salt water. Besides
the springs referred to are Hampton Spring on Rocky Creek
and a chalybeate spring on Blue Creek.
Perry, the county seat, may be best reached from Madison.
Madison County, thirty-one miles by mail route.
Tolusia County.
Area, 1,340 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 35' to 29° 25' N.— Long. 81° 35' to 81" W W —
I'opiilation (1890), 8,463.— Pop. (1880), 3,294.— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,994,-
572.— County seat, DeLand.
Volusia, as may be inferred from the phenomenal increase
in its population, is, to Northern settlers, one of the most
attractive counties of South Florida. This is largely ac-
counted for from its easy access to Northern markets, its ad-
vantages of soil and climate for invalids, and the facilities
that it offers to tourists and sportsmen.
The county was organized under territorial government in
1825, and its somewhat unfortunate early name was Mosquito
County, a title which was naturally repudiated as soon as
possible, and Orange was adopted. It originally included
Orange and Brevard Counties. In 1854 Volusia and part of
Brevard were set oflf, and in 1878 the present boundaries
were established. Lying between the St. Jo^m's Eiver on the
west, and the Atlantic Ocean on the east, Volusia County has
navigable waters on both sides, besides which railroads cross
it in four directions, affording ready transportation for the
enormous orange crop. The country bordering the principal
railroads and watercourses, indeed, is almost a continuous
orange grove, and the planters claim that no part of the State
excels it for raising this favorite crop. The land is largely
high pine and hammock, and very ju-oductive for all kinds of
crops.
Along the ocean front are found the narrow beaches,
.sometimes, as at Daytona and Ormond, rising into verit-
able hammocks. Within these, to the westward, are the
coastwise rivers, the Halifax and the Hillsborough. West-
VOLUSIA COUNTY.
95
•ward again is a wide belt of the richest hammock, two or
three miles wide, and containing evidences of ancient culti-
vation in the shape of drains, canals, and mined houses, con-
cerning some of which all records have been lost, while the
06 VOLUSIA COUNTY.
histoiy of the others, as the Turnbull tract at New Smyrna,
is tolerably well known. Beyond the hammocks is a belt of
prairie, broken by islands of cabbage-palm and pine, rising
first into "flat-woods," and again into the rolling pine-lands
that extend nearly to the St. John's Kiver at the western
boundary.
The first settlement within the present limits of the county
was made during the British occupancy by Dr. Turnbull, a
Scotch gentleman of wealth, who, having obtained a large
conditional grant of hammock land in the vicinity of
New Smyrna, enlisted a colony of some fifteen hundred
Greeks, Italians, and Minorcaus, and brought them over
with the intention of organizing an agricultural community.
Dissensions followed, and the colony was broken up, but not
before a large amount of work had been accomplished (see
Eoute 63).
In 1803 a colony of nearly twenty families from St. Augus-
tine resettled the abandoned lands of the Turnbull tract, es-
tablishing, in spite of hostile Indians, quite a prosperous set-
tlement. In 1835, however, the Seminole war broke out in
earnest, and the inhabitants were obliged to escape across
the river and see their houses and plantations burned behind
them. Until 1842 the county was abandoned by whites, and
even after that time Indian alarms were so frequent that, in
1860, there were barely twenty-five families within the pres-
ent boundaries. Then followed the Civil War, when New
Smyrna enjoyed a short lived and costly importance as an
entrepot for blockade-runners, but was presently shelled by
United States gunboats, and nearly destroyed.
An expedition from Jacksonville was sent up the St. John's
Eiver, and is said to have captured every man in the county.
Two of the prisoners were released, however, as too small of
stature for military duty, and for several months these two
were the only white men in the county. At the first election
after the return of peace there were twenty-one registered
voters, and every one of them was present to organize the
first court. Shortly after this the movement began which
has so wonderfully increased the population of the county,
and developed its resources.
VOLUSIA COUNTY.
97
The main line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West sys-
tem to Saudford (connecting for PuntaGorda and Port Tampa)
and Titusville follows a generally north and south direction
near the St. John's Eiver. The stations within and near the
county are :
Dist.
ft". Jackson-
ville.
77 Denver (Putnam Co.) S2
81 Hammond 78
84.... Seville 75
. Bakersburg 71
.Pierson ..'. 70
.Eklrld^e 67
Barbervil e 65
.Deep CreeSi 62
89
99 Sprmp; Garden 60
103 .. . Glenwood 57
103....mcrh:aud Park 55
107....DeLaudJc.i 52
108. . .Beresford 51
113.... Orange c:tyJc. 2 47
118 .. .Ente. prise Jc 41
12D....Osteeu 30
131.... Cow Creek 25
138. . . Maytown 18
147 Aurantia (Brevard Co.) 9
151 Mims (Brevard Co.) 5
153 La Grange (Brevard Co.) 4
157 .. . .Titusville (Brevard Co.) 0
Dist.
fr. Titus-
ville.
' At DeLand Junction is a spur three miles eastward to DcLand, and two miles
westward to DeLand Lauding.
2 At Orange City Junction Is the crossing of the Atlantic & Western Sailroad
(see below).
Atlantic & Western Railroad from Blue Springs on the St.
John's River to New Smyrna on the sea-coast, crossing the
county from east to west :
0 . . .Blue Springs 29
O?^:.. Orange City Jc 28>4 W
■nut f_ 3 ...Orange City 26 a Dist.
Smyrna 8J^ .. Lake Helen 19>^ j fr. Blue
bmyma. ^ 22 . Waverly 6 Springs.
E 25>^ . . Glencoe Z}4
29 New Smyrna 0
At Orange City Junction is the crossing of J., T. & K. W. (see above).
98
WAKULLA COUNTY.
Wakulla County.
Area, 580 sq. m.— Lat. 30° to SO" 20' N.— Long. 84° 5' to 34° 4.5' W.— Popula-
tion (1890), 3,109.— Pop. (1880), 2,723.— Assessed valuation (1888), $362,281.—
Covaity seat, C'rawfordvillc.
This county is named after the famous spring near the
Gulf coast. The Seminole word Wakulla means mystery,
and no one who visits the spring will question the fitness of
the title (see i?. 348). A further mystery, peculiar to this
region, is the alleged "Wakulla Volcano," a column of
smoke or vapor that perpetually rises above the trees at a
certain point to which no man has as yet penetrated (see p.
347). The surface is mainly level and sandy, with a clay
subsoil and limestone rock, often rich in phosphates, not far
below the surface everywhere. Heavily timbered hard-wood
hammocks cover a large portion of the county, and game is
abundant. The Oeklockony River, a considerable stream,
forms the western boundary, and its tributaries water the
Avestern part of the county. In the eastern part are the St.
Mark's and Wakulla Rivers, w Inch unite, forming the Apala-
chee River, five miles from the Gulf. The former has its
source in the famous spring just referred to. The latter
rises in a small pond, nineteen miles northeast from the
WAKULLA COUNTY. 99
junction of the streams. Boats drawing four feet of water
can ascend to the sources of both these streams. It is sup-
posed from topogi-aphical surveys that the St. Mark's derives
its supply from Lake Micosukee and its tributaries (see
p. 52). Numerous sinks occur along a certain connecting
line, and sometimes the river itself emerges for a time above
ground.
The Ocklockony River, forming the western boundary of
the county, rises in Georgia, and running generally south,
falls into Ocklockony Bay, twenty miles west of St. Mark's.
It is navigable for steamboats about fifty miles. Some
twenty miles from its mouth it divides. New River carrying
a portion of its waters to the bay. Its principal tributaries
are Tugalo, Little River, Robinson's Creek, and Rocky Com-
fort.
The Gulf coast line is about twenty-five miles in extent,
not attempting to trace its various indentations. It forms an
extensive bight known as Apalachee Bay, early discovered
by the Spaniards, and the site of attempted settlements in
the sixteenth century.
At the mouth of St, Mark's River, on the east side, is a
lighthouse showing a fixed w'hite light of the fourth order,
visible fifteen miles at sea. The tower is white, eighty-three
feet in total height above the water. The channel is well
buoyed, and admits vessels drawing seven feet at low tide.
The principal industries are turpentine-making, stock-rais-
ing, bee-culture, hunting, and fishing. There are many
natural curiosities as sinks, springs, and the like scattered
through the county. The supply of drinking-water is mainly
derived from cisterns, as the natural flow is strongly im-
l>reguated with lime.
The St. Mark's Railroad from Tallahassee, in Leon County,
to St. Mark's, is twenty-one miles long ; through time, one
hour and forty-five minutes.
I 0 Tallahassee 21 t,j
Dist.fr. ' 4....Belair IT . Dist.fr.
Tallahassee, o 16 .... Wakulla 5 '^ St. Mark's.
° 21 ... St. Mark's 0 '
For conoections at Tallahassee (sec p. 53).
100
WALTON COUNTY.
Walton County.
Area, 1,360 eq. m.— Lat. 30" 20' to 31" N.— Lontr. 85" 52' to 86° 39' W.— Popu-
lation ( 1890), 4.811.— Pop. (1880), 4,201.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,122,755.
— Coucty seat. De Funiak Springs.
Walton County i.s bounded on the north by Alabama, east
by Holmes and Washington Counties, south by Choctawhat-
chee Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and west by Santa Bosa
County. The laud is mainly covered with pine woods, flat
near the coast but high and rolling to the northward. The
soil is for the most part sandy with clay near the streams.
The land is highly productive and large shii^ments are an-
nually made of cotton, corn, sugar, vegetables, fruits, and to-
bacco. Stock-raising, especially sheep, is extensively fol-
lowed and is on the increase. This industry was originally
introduced by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians who settled
in the Euchee Vallev in 1823, and whose descendants still
WALTON COUNTY— WASHINGTON COUNTY. 101
remain among the most prospprous and thrifty farmers of
this region.
The Pensacola & Atlantic division of the L. & N. Rd.
crosses the county from east to west. The stations within
and near the county are as follows :
70 Ponce de Leon (Holmes Co.) ... 134
I TT....Argyle 128 E
•ni-^ f,. 81 . . . .De Funiak Springs 124 a Y.;^t t-
River Jc 94.... Mossy Head 109 PengacSk
Kiverdc. y l01....Deer)and 102 , -t^ensacoia.
W 110....Crestview 93 i
114. . . .Milligan {Santa Rosa Co.) 89
For continuation of this route to Tallahassee, etc., eastward, see p. 40 ; west-
ward to Pensacola, p. 8T.
Washiugton County.
Area, 1.330 sq. m.— Lat. 30° to 30" 40' N.— Long. 85" 20' to 86" 32' W.— Popu-
lafon (1890), 6,416.— Pop. (ISSO), 4,089.— Assessed valuation (1888), $759,537.—
County seat, Vernon.
Washington was one of the original counties organized
after the United States acquired the territory of Florida.
Holmes and Jackson Counties bound it on the north, Jackson
and Calhoun on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the south,
and "Walton County on the west. The principal exports are
cotton, timber, and cattle. The soil is in the main sandy,
with alluvial bottoms and hammocks along the rivers. Some
of the cultivated iDortious of the county have been tilled by
whites for nearly half a century, and from time immemorial
by the aborigines who preceded them. The sheep-growing
industry has developed here, as in the neighboring counties,
during recent years, and bids fair to become a very profitable
branch of farming. The fine bay of St. Andrew's and its
viciuity offer exceptional attractions to sportsmen.
The Western division of the Florida Central & Peninsula
Eailway closely follows the northern boundary line. The
stations are :
34 Cottondale (Jackson Co.) 171
44....ChipIeY 161 E
Dist fr \ B3....Bonifay 1.52 a -pi-.^t f-
KverJc i 61....Caryvil!e 144 , pi^'t^-^-
xuverdc. y 63. . . .Westville 142 ! I'ensacola.
W 71 ... , Ponce de Leon 134
77 ... . Argyle ( Walton Co.) 128
For continuation of this route eastward to Tallahassee and JacliBonvIlle see
p. 41 ; westward to Pensacola see p. 40.
JUNIVIR:^ ALIFORNL!
JACKSONVILLE. 108
10. Jacksonville, Duval County (C.H.).
Population (1S90), 17,100.— Lat. 30° 24' N.— Long. 81° 40' W.
Hotels. — (Rates are given by the day unless otherwise stated. Where rates
are omitted no reply to inquiry has been received.) (Jarleton Hotel, Rooms $1
upward; restaurant « /a cajie. — Ducal. — Kterett. — Grand Vieir. — Glenad i, $3
to $3. 'm).— Hotel Tojni, $2. — Lafayette.— Oxford.— St. James Hotel, $4.— 7're-
moiit House. — yvindsor Hotel. $4 and $5.
Special rates are usually mide for permanent guests, or by the week. Besides
the hotels there are ne.ir-y 100 boarding-houses, at $8 to J15 a week.
Ratlroads, Steamboats, etc.
Jacksonville, Tampa £ Key West System (to St. Augustine, Indian River,
Tampa, Punta Gorda, etc.). Station foot of Bridge St. (see p. 25).
Fcoridt Central d- Peninsula Railway (to Tallahassee, Pensacola, Fernan-
dina, Cedar Key, Orlando, etc.). Station foot of Hogan St. (see p. 26).
Savannah, Florid i & Western Railway (Waycross Short Line). Station foot
of Bridge St. (see p. 25).
Jacksonville, Mayport d- Pablo Railway d- Xavigation Co. (to Mayport and
Buruside Beach). Ferry from foot of Market St. (see p. 26).
Jacksonville d Atlantic Riilroid (to Pablo Beach). Ferry from foot of New-
nan St. (see p. 26).
People's Line (St. John's River Steamers). Astor's wharf, foot of Hogan St.
De Bary Line (St. John's River Steamers). Foot of Laura St.
Beich d- Miller Line (to Fort Geo ge, Mayport, etc.). Tyson & Co.'s wharf,
foot of Pine St.
Clyde Line (New York, Charleston & Florida Steamship Co.). Astor's wharf,
foot of Hogan St.
Tramways, with cars at five minute intervals, run through Bay St. eastward,
two miles to the r.ver bank below Commodore's Point, where there are a race-
course and one or two hotels, mainly for transient resort. Good view across and
down the river. Westward tha Bay Street line crosses McCoy's Creek into the
subiubs. A cross-town line runs ou: Pine St. to the Sub-tropical Exposition
grounds and beyond, and another out Laura St., two miles to the suburbs of
Somerville and Warren ; ualform fare, 5c.
Carriage rate from railroad stations and steamboat landings to any part of
city 23c. 1 luggage 25c. per piece.
Livery. — Carriases and saddle-horses may usually be best engaged through
the hotel clerk; there are, however, many excellent "livery stables where, if de-
sired, special terms may be made. The following are approximately the pre-
vailing rates : Saddle-horses, 73c. to 11.50 an hour, $3 a day ; single teams, $1.50
an hour, $4 a day ; double teams with driver, $2 an hour, $5 upward a day.
Boats and Launches may be found at the foot of Market St. ; row-boats. 25c.
an hour ; with attendant, $2 to $5 a day. Special bargains must be made for
steam launches and tha like, or for protracted expeditfons.
Points of Ikterest in Jacksonville.
The Sub-tropical Exposition (p. 104).
Citv Water-works (p. 104).
Post Office, Bay St., cor. Market.
Banks (hou's 9.30 a.m. to 2 p.m.).— Bank of Jacksonville.— First National
Bank of Florida, cor. Bay and Ocean Sta. — State Bank of Florida.— National
Bank, State of Florida. 16 West Bay St. — National Bank of Jacksonville. —Flor-
ida Savings Bank and Raal Estate Exchange. — Ambler, Marvin & Stocktou.
Cigar Manufactories.
Fibre Works.
Churches.— Ba\)tist, Rev. Mr. Plummer.— Consregational, Rev. R. T. Hall,
Hogau St.— Episcopal, St. John's, Duvil St., near Market. —Methodist, St. Paul's,
Rev. J. B. Anderson. Duva! St., cor. Newnan.— Methodist. Trinity, Rev. W. S.
Fitch, Monroe St. and City Park.— Presbyterian (North), Rev. S. W." Paine, Ocean
lU4 JACKSONVILLE.
St.— Presbyterian (South), Rev. Dr. Dodge. Newuau St.— Roman Catholic.
Father Kceuy, Newnan St. There are also a large number of small congre-
gatious, mainly negroes, scattered through the city.
The Sub-tropical EKposition. The buildings for this an-
nual exhibition of the products of Florida are in the City
Water-works Park, on Hogau Street, about three quarters of
a mile from the river, fifteen minutes' walk from Bay Street
and the principal hotels. Tramcars run out Hogan Street
(fare 5c.). The exhibition proper is usually ojoen from early
in January till about April 1st ; 25c. general admission ; 50c.
on special occasions, gala nights, and the like. The build-
ings are open at all times, however, as some objects of in-
terest always remain, even when the exhibition is closed.
Among these are the tropical plants within the building, the
living manatee or sea-cow in the artificial lake, with deer,
and sometimes other Floridian animals and birds in an en-
closure to the west of the main building.
In connection with the exhibition are the Jacksonville
Water-works. The supply is drawn from artesian wells.
The first of these was driven in 1883, and the last and deep-
est in 1889. The water is impregnated with sulphur, and
emits a slightly unpleasant odor when it reaches the air.
This odor disappears almost immediately, and the water, a%
delivered to the service-pii^es, is jjure and wholesome. The
strata penetrated by the last and deepest boring, 1,020 feet,
were as follows : Sand, 20 ft. ; clay (phosphatic), 2 ft. ; co-
quina, 20 ft. ; blue clay. 300 ft. ; fossil limestone, 2 ft. (small
flow of sulphur water, 8 to 10 gallons a minute) ; blue clay,
100 ft. ; fossil rock, 30 ft. ; flinty rock, 6 ft. ; open lime rock,
yielding a strong flow of water, 100 ft. ; hard, sandy lime-
stone, 350 ft., with a constantly increa.sing flow of excellent
sulphur water. The maximum flow is 2.333 gallons a min-
ute, at a temperature of 78' on reaching the surface.
Shops. The principal stores are on Bay Street, running
for a mile near and parallel to the river. All the ordinary
wants of travellers can be supplied here at prices but little
in advance of the prevailing rates in Northern cities, and it
is often easier to purchase articles here than to bring them
from a distance.
Drives. Within the city pleasurable driving is limited to
JACKSONVILLE. 105
the wooden pavements which now cover most of the prin-
cipal streets. As these are jjleasantly shaded, and in the main
bordered with pretty residences, they are quite pojDular. Out-
side the city the shell road is the favorite drive. Follow
Pine Street to Eighth Street, one and one-half mile from
the Court House ; turn to the left, and follow Eighth Street,
which presently merges in the Moncrief Springs Koad. This
may be followed to its junction with the shell road, through
the La Villa precinct, and so back to town, eight miles. The
Old King's Eoad, a relic of the days of English rule, is still
in fairly good order for several miles out, and so is the Pan-
ama Eoad, following the north bank of the river toward its
mouth.
On the south side of the river are charming drives on ex-
cellent shell roads. Cross the river by ferry from foot of
Newnan Street (moderate extra charge for horses and car-
riages) ; follow direct road from wharf one-quarter of a mile,
turn slightly to left, and cross railway. This is the old road
to St. Augustine and beyond, constructed under the adnun-
istration of the British Governor, James Grant (1765), Per-
mission may be obtained at the gate lodge, one mile from fer-
ry, to drive through the private grounds of Villa Alexandria.
Eastward the road leads to Devins Point, Arlington Creek, etc.
It is recommended not to diverge far from the shell roads,
as the sand makes heavy work for horses. In the saddle, how-
ever, any of the wood roads may be comfortably followed.
History.
The site of Jacksonville became important to aboriginal
tribes long before the advent of Europeans. At this point
the St. John's River, after flowing for more than two hun-
dred miles in a tortuous northerly course, makes a sharp
bend to the eastward, and falls into the ocean twenty miles
below the city. The elbow of the river formed a natural
rendezvous for tribal expeditions for war or the chase, and
the existence of shell and burial mounds in the vicinity at-
tests its frequent, perhaps permanent occupation. The Ind-
ians knew it as " Wacca Pilatka," Cow's Crossing, whence its
IOC JACKSON VIM J-:.
early English name, " Cow's Ford." The Freuoh and Sjian-
iards were not road builders, but dui-ing colonial times the
English built what was known as the King's Road from St.
Augustine and points still fartlier south. Cow's Ford was
the natural crossing point, and the King's Road served as
the highway for the pioneer. The early Indian and Span-
ish wars antedated the existence of Jacksonville. During
the war for independence on the part of the Northern Col-
onies, Florida was, if anything, royalist in sentiment.
In 1816, Florida, having jjassed again from British to
Spanish rule, one Lewis Z. Hogans, a settler on the south
side of the river, married a Spanish W'idow, Dona Maria
Suavez by name, who held a grant of two hundred acres on
the present site of Jacksonville. Moving to his wife's land,
Hogans was ready to reap the benefit of the tide of immi-
gration that began in a small way soon after the transfer of
the territory to the United States in 1819. A feny was es-
tablished, and an inn oi^ened in 1820, by John Brady, and by
1822 it became necessary to plan for the future. Streets were
accordingly laid out, and a town government was organized.
The town was formally incorporated in 1833, and named
after General Andrew Jackson, Governor of Florida prior to
its organization as a territory, and afterward President of
the United States. Until 1835 the town grew with consider-
able rapidity, but with the outbreak of the Seminole War
(see p. ) in that year its prosperity was checked. It be-
came fox the time a place of refuge ; blockhouses were
erected and a garrison was maintained, until 1842, when the
Seminoles were subdued.
With the return of peace, the town resumed its growth.
It was the natural port of entry for all traffic from the ocean,
and the distributing point for such overland commerce as
sought an outlet by sea. In 1860 the population was 2,118,
the lumber interest had assumed important proportions, and,
as a shipping point for all Florida produce, Jacksonville was
without a rival. The Civil War (1861 to 1865) checked this
era of prosperity.
The Confederate authorities garrisoned the place, but no
considerable measures were taken for its defence. On March
JACKSON VILLS. I07
11, 18(52, the United States gunboats, Ottawa, Seneca, and
Pembina crossed the bar at some risk. The next day, with
several lighter draft vessels that had joined, the squadron
sbeamed np to Jacksonville, which was jDeacefully surren-
dered by the city authorities. The small Confederate force
that had been in possession retreated to the interior. The
report of Lieutenant T. H. Stevens, commanding the United
States squadron, avers that he found many smouldering
ruins of mills, houses, and other property that had been
recently burned, while the Confederates charge the destruc-
tion of property to the Federals.
Fortifications were erected and it was announced that the
place would be permanently held by United States forces.
Under this assurance a meeting of citizens, held on March
20th, repudiated the ordinance of secession, and called for a
convention to reorganize a State government under the laws of
the United States. Four days afterward, March 24:th, there
was another meeting, pursuant to adjournment, at which a call
for a convention was issued in due form.
Notwithstanding all this, however, there came an order
on April 10th, withdrawing the whole force, and sending it
North on what was deemed more important service. Many
of the inhabitants who had declared their allegiance to the
United States Government feared to remain, and were given
transiDortation to the North.
On October 4th of the same year Jacksonville was again
occupied for a sliort time by a Federal force under General
Brannan, and again abandoned.
An expedition, consisting of the First Eegiment of South
Carolina Volunteers, Colonel T. W. Higginson commanding,
and a portion of the Second South Carolina Volunteers, under
Colonel Montgomery, reoccupied Jacksonville on March 10,
1863. These troops were negroes, lately slaves, and were
recruited in South Carolina. They were among the tirst of
the regiments of colored troops afterward organized in the
service of the United States. Jacksonville was at this time
merely a picket station, a considerable body of Confederate
troops being encamped some eight miles to the westward.
The purpose of this expedition, as stated in the report of
108 JA(;KS()NVIIiI.H.
General Saxton, was to establish a base of operatious in
Florida, and harass the enemy more by inviting enlistments
of negroes than by active operations. The three transports
conveying the troops came up the river under convoy of a
guaboat. No opposition was met with, the transports made
fast to the wharves, and the men jumped ashore without
waiting for the gang-plank. There was much consternation
among- the few remaining inhabitants, on the unexpected
arrival of the dreaded negro soldiers, but, as a general thing,
they were kept well in hand during the period of their stay.
On March 23d, the Confederates mounted a gnn on a plat-
form car, and ran it down the track within range of the city.
On the next day the experiment was repeated, and several
buildings were struck by shells. On March 26th, a strong
reconnoitering party marched out along the railroad, under
command of Colonel Higginson. They had a brush with the
enemy, losing a few men about four miles from the town.
To the surprise of all connected with the expedition, an
order for the abandonment of Jacksonville was received, and
on March 31st the United States forces were withdrawn.
At this time there occurred an act of vandalism, the respon-
sibility for which could never be fixed. A mania for firing
buildings seemed to seize upon the stragglers and camp fol-
lowers who managed to escape from the control of their offi-
cers. A high wind was blowing, and Jacksonville was almost
wholly destroyed. The fleet steamed away, leaving the place
in flames. Even at the North the management of this exj^edi-
tion, involving, as it did, the needless occupation and abandon-
ment of a jaartly loyal city, provoked severe condemnation.
On the afternoon of February 7, 1864, the few remaining
inhabitants of Jacksonville, not much more than one hundred
souls in all, saw the not unfamiliar spectacle of a gunboat,
with her crew at quarters in front of the city. A few shots
were fired by the small detachment of Confederates on duty,
when comjianies of the Fifty-fourth Massachusetts and the
Eighth United States Colored Troops landed and took pos-
session. This was the most formidable expedition that
landed at Jacksonville during the war, numbering about five
thousand men. well supplied with cavalry and artilleiy.
JACKSONVILLE. 109
Pausing only long enough to land their material, and leaving
an adequate garrison, the command pushed on at once along
the line of the railroad toward Lake City, and met the crush-
ing defeat at Olustee, described under Route.
The defeated Federals fell back upon their fortifications
at Jacksonville, and occupied them until the close of the war
in 1865. The river was patrolled by gunboats, and no serious
attack was afterward made by the Confederates.
Immediately after the restoration of peace, large quanti-
ties of cotton, which had been stored for safety in the sur-
rounding country, sought Jacksonville as a convenient port
of shipment, and since that time her commercial prosperity
has been assured.
Jacksonville has been a popular winter resort for Northern
visitors ever since it became readily accessible to travellers.
The tract on which it stands was originally what is known
as I'oUing pine land, having good surface drainage to the
river in front, and to McCoy's and Hogan's Creeks on either
side. The natural drainage, however, is mainly through the
sandy soil, into which the heaviest rains disappear at once,
leaving the surface practically dry. The streets and public
squares are well shaded with live oaks, water oaks, and otlier
native trees, and in the gardens of many of the private
houses are orange, lemon, lime, magnolia, and other semi-
tropical trees and shrubs generally unfamiliar to the North-
ern visitor.
Many of the orange trees in the streets and elsewhere are
of the bitter variety, cultivated merely for ornament and
shade. The fruit is not usually considered edible, though
it is used in the preparation of certain beverages, preserves,
and the like.
The uninitiated Northern visitor often learns the diflference
between sweet and bitter oranges by practical experience,
for he is told to help himself freely from any of the trees
in the public streets or squares.
The climate of Jacksonville is that of the North Florida
Atlantic sea-coast (see p. 377). The city is near enough to
the ocean to enjoy its influence in regard to temperature,
Avhile the force of the northeasterly gales that are occasion-
110 JACKSONVILLE.
ally experienced is sensibly diminished by the intervening
belt of timber.
As a centre from which excursions can be made, Jackson-
ville is especially convenient, since all the principal railroad
and steamboat lines diverge from this point (see p. 103).
The principal streets are paved with the Wyckoff cypress
pavement, laid with cross sections of cypress logs set on end,
arranged according to size, and having the interstices filled
with cement. The streets not so paved are deep with the
native sand of the locality, or perhaps rendered a degree
less impassable by means of certain waste material from the
fibre factories. Wooden sidewalks are almost universal, ex-
cept on the main business streets.
Excursions.
11. Jacksonville to St. Augustine.
J., T. & K. W. Ry., 36 milef5 by railway (1 hour 40 minutes).
The train passes almost directly from the station to the
fine drawbridge across the St. John's River. This bridge
was opened in 1889. It is of steel throughout, with a total
length of 1,320 feet. The draw is 320 feet long.
South Jacksonville occupies the point of land formed by
the bend in the river. It has 800 inhabitants, and is becom-
ing an attractive suburb. It contains many handsome resi-
dences. Here terminated the southern section of the Old
King's Road from St. Augustine, built by the English under
the administration of Governor Grant (1765). The road is still
in use. It may be seen to the left of the track as the train
moves away from the river. For a short time the line passes
through a scattered growth of oaks, magnolias, and other
hard wood trees, interspersed with occasional orange groves.
Then it enters the pines, slightly rolling at first, but grad-
ually falling off into the flat woods and belts of hammock
that border the sea-coast. For stations and distances see p.
85. Between Jacksonville and St. Augustine there are no
important towns, but the soil is productive, and considerable
shipments of agricultural products are made. Between
JACKSONVILLE. HI
Sweetwater and Bayard the line crosses Arlington Creek, a
tributary of the St. John's. A little south of Sampson it
passes near St. Mary's pond, shortly after which the prairies
bordering the Tolomato River, open to the south and east,
and soon the towers and orange-trees of St. Augustine are
visible beyond.
Tourists whose time is limited, may visit St. Augustine
and return to Jacksonville the same day, having about five
hours for sight-seeing.
Engage a carriage at the station. Drive to principal points
of interest (see p. 133). Visit Fort Marion (see p. 157).
Lunch, inspect the Alameda group of hotels, visit Anastasia
Island or the North Beach (connection by rail with the latter
from Union Station). To accomplish all this in five hours ad-
mits of no loitering, and is not recommended. So hasty a
visit should only be undertaken rather than lose a look at
the ancient city altogether.
12. Jacksonville to Fernandina.
By F. C. & P. Ky., 37 miles (1 hour 40 minutes).
Passing through the suburbs of Jacksonville, the line runs
nearly due north, crossing Trout Creek (five miles) a short
distance above its junction with the St. John's. Three miles
farther Cedar Creek is passed, and beyond this is the rolling
pine forest of Duval County. Six miles north of Duval sta-
tion is Nassau River (see p. 131), and at Hart's Road Junction,
the line curves to the eastward. The station takes its name
from a contractor who cut a military road through the then
unbroken forest during the earljt Indian wars. Six miles
farther it crosses Amelia River on a trestle whose predecessor
was burned during the Civil War (see p. 129), and then turns
to the northward, soon coming in sight of Fernandina.
Tourists who have but a short time at their disposal may
drive about the city and see the chief points of interest dur-
ing the five or six hoiirs that intervene before the return
train. For description of Fernandina and vicinity see p. 127.
Consult local time-tables.
112 JACKSONVILLE.
13. Mayport and Bumside Beach.
Part steamboat, part rail. Ferry from foot of Pine Street, Jacksonville.
Boat connects with Mayport & Pablo Railway & Navigation Co. at both ends
of line. Twenty miles (1 hour 15 minutes). Fare, 50c. ; round trip, $1. Con-
sult local time-tables.
The river below Jacksonville is described in detail, p. 117.
The steam ferryboat from Market Street rounds Commo-
dore's Point, and connects with the Mayi^ort & Pablo Rail-
way on the south bank of the river, three miles. Landings
are sometimes made on signal, at intermediate wharves.
The conspicuous grove at the mouth of Arlington Creek,
is Empire Point, sometimes called Devins' Point, the coun-
try seat of General A. S. Devins. of Boston.
The railway soon enters the pine woods, and for ten miles
there are only occasional openings. The line then crosses a
wide prairie intersected by Pablo Creek and Mt. Pleasant
Ci'eek. The clumps of dark cedars scattered along the prairie
mark the site of shell mounds, the work of prehistoric In-
dian tribes.
Beyond the prairie the train enters a fine palm hammock.
Here the newly arrived visitor from the North often makes
his first acquaintance with the lofty cabbage-palm in its
native habitat. The hammock extends to the edge of the
beach. The train runs directly to a platform connected with
the Pavilion and hotels, where good entertainment can be had.
Bumside Beach is largely frequented by excursionists from
Jacksonville and the interior (Palmetto Hotel, $7 to §10 a
week). The beach is at present making slowly out to sea-
ward, so that there is quite a stretch of dry sand before the
hard, level, wave- washed^ bathing-beach can . be reached.
Looking south one may see the large hotel at Pablo Beach,
six miles (see p. 114). "Wheelmen often ride from Burnside
or Mayport to Pablo Beach, whence there is a railway back
to Jacksonville. The beach is admirable for driving, but
teams should be secured by telegraph to avoid delay. In
arranging for a walk or ride between Pablo and Burnside,
the time of tide should be considered, and the start made
just after the tide has begun to run ebb. This will insxire a
JACKSONVILLE. 113
roadway of ample width for several hours, or until the tide
again approaches high water mark.
From Burnside the train backs to Mavport, two miles,
keeping just inside the line of sand dunes, between which
pretty glimpses of the ocean are caught from time to time.
Mayport, at the mouth of the St. John's Kiver, is so called
from the name given by the French, in 1562, "La Riviere
de Mai," before the Spaniards took possession. There is no
large hotel in the place, but meals and rooms can be had at
the Burrows House, near the railroad.
The town has about five hundred inhabitants. There is
much picturesque life to be seen along shore among the
fishermen and men engaged in constructing mattresses for
the jetties (see p. 117). Toward the sea-beach are numer-
ous summer cottages, belonging, for the most part, to city
residents. From the lighthouse a good view of the river
is obtainable.
The fishing industry at Mavport is of considerable im-
portance. Shad begin running up the river as early as Jan-
uary, and are taken in seines in large quantities ; as many as
ten thousand are said to have been taken in one day. There
is a tradition among fishermen at the river mouth that shad
are never known to go to sea again. At all events, that they
are never taken going out. Some of the fishermen believe
that the shad perish in the upjier reaches of the river. The
shad season continues till April, and, when perfectly fresh
from the water, the fish compare favorably with their North-
ern brethren.
The sand composing the Mayjjort dunes is of a peculiarly
white, fine quality. It drifts like snow across the railroad,
and great mounds move to and fro, sometimes burying
houses and trees in their course. Near Mayport the Span-
iards built a fort which was taken and destroyed by Dome-
nique de Gourgues, in 1565 (see p. 120).
The conspicuous group of buildings on^ a large shell
mound on the opposite side of the river is a mill for grind-
ing shells for fertilizing purposes. It is possible .sometimes
to purchase Indian relics from the superintendent or work-
men, but the supply is very uncertain. Small boats may be
114 JACKSONVILLE.
liiied at Mayport or Pilot Town, with or without attendants,
to explore the neighl)oriiig shores and inlets.
Fort George Island and Batten Island are on the opposite
side of the river, and may be reached by row-boat or feriy.
A pleasant excursion from Jacksonville is to go to May-
port by rail as above, and return by boat, or vice versa.
Tickets are available by either route.
14. Pablo Beach.
Hotel, Murray Hall, $2.50 to $4 a day. By Jacksonville A: Atlantic Railroad,
ferry from foot of Newnan Street, Jacksonville, 17 miles Cflfty-five minutes^).
The line is nearly straight to the eastward, from South Jack-
sonville, passing a few unimportant stations in the pine for-
est, and crossing a wide prairie just before reaching the coast.
The village of Pablo is mainly a seaside resort, with a fine
hotel, and a superb bathing-beach three hundred feet wide
at low tide. The seaward slope of this beach is only eight
inches in one hundred feet, so that to the eye it is appar-
ently level, and as the beach is absolutely free from irregu-
larities, the bathing is safe, even for children. Sand dunes
covered with beach-scrub and occasional cabbage-palms de-
fine the shore line, and for a mile these are crowned with
cottages, hotels, and other buildings suited to a seaside re-
sort, among them a sanitarium belonging to a large Catho-
lic institution of Jacksonville. The large hotel, Murray Hall,
is cleverly contrived to give its guests all possible advantage
of its fine situation, the parlor windows com.manding an out-
look to sea, northward up the beach to Mayport, and south-
ward till the breaking surf and the gray beach disappear in
the haze.
Carriages and horses for riding and driving on the beach
can be had from a well-furnislied livery stable, at reasonable
rates. Visitors for the day have ample time for an exhilarat-
ing drive on the beach in either direction, and it is possible
even to drive to Burnside or Mayport, and return to town
either by boat or rail from one of those points.
JACKSONVILLE. 115
15. Jacksonville to Green Cove Springs.
By J., T. & K. \V. Ry. from foot of Bridge Street, 29 miles ^1 hour 15 min-
utes), or by steamboat.
By consulting local time-table.s, connections can be made,
so as to vary the trip, going by rail and returning by boat.
It is recommended to return by boat, as the afternoon hours
are pleasant on the river. For description of this part of St.
John's River see p. 184 ; for Green Cove Springs see p. 187.
16. Fort George Island.
This is the most southerly of the Sea Islands, lying just
north of the St. John's Eiver. It is most directly reached
by boat down the St. John's from Tyson & Co.'s wharf, foot
of Pine Street, Jacksonville. If preferred, however, the
tourist may go by rail to May2:)ort (see p. 112), and cross
thence in a small boat. The steamers land at Pilot Town, on
Batten Island. Here are a number of cottages and houses,
at some of which boai'd and lodging may be obtained at ^7
to §10 a week. A short distance west of the steamboat wharf
is a Coquina ruin, of no great antiquity, but interesting for
its picturesqueness. Others of the same kind are scattered
about the neighborhood. On this island was the Spanish
fort gallantly taken by De Goui'gues and his Indian allies, as
described on p. 121.
If a visit to Fort George is intended, it is well to telegraph
in advance for conveyances, to K. Spencer, Postmaster, Fort
George. The roads on these islands are smooth, hard, and
level, winding among a magnificent hammock growth, with
occasional glimpses of the sea, or of extensive island-studded
jirairies.
A causeway crosses the creek to Fort George Island, one
of the most attractive localities on this part of the coast. It
is in area about two miles square. The eastern shore facing
the ocean has a broad stretch of white sand beach, backed
by a range of high dunes generally covered with scrub.
The heavily wooded central ridge of the island rises to a con-
siderable height. The highest point is Mount Cornelia, on
116 .JACKSONVILLE.
■which is an observatory, whence is a fine outlook ovei' the
neigliboring marshes, rivers, and ocean. The square top of
this observatory is visible twelve to fifteen miles at sea. The
hill, or " mount," on which it stands is the most prominent
natural landmark anywhere on the Southern coast, and has
been, since the days of the early exjilorers, the mark by
■which the entrance to the St. John's River was recognized
by mariners.
The island was originally settled by one McQueen, a
Scotchman, who probably named it after some locality in his
native land. Then it was purchased by a wealthy Southerner,
Kingsley by name, ■svho made it an ideal jjlantation of the
old school, maintaining an army of slaves, and largely culti-
vating cotton and other marketable products. The home-
stead, somewhat modernized, still stands, ■with its negro
quarters and outbuildings near the northern end of the isl-
and, with a fine avenue of venerable moss-draped cedars in
front and along the river side.
After the Civil War the family, i^ressed for money, sold the
whole property for ^7,500, and shortly afterward four hun-
dred acres were sold to a Boston company, Avho erected a
large house — the Fort George Hotel — which for many years
was a favorite resort for Northern visitors. This was burned
May 1, 1889, and has not yet been rebuilt. Many handsome
private houses have been built at desirable jjoiuts along the
sea front, and many wealthy Northern people make this their
home during the winter months.
The whole island is intersected with a charmingly irregular
network of roads, admirable for riding, driving, or walking,
and there are few more enjoyable experiences in Florida than
an exploration of these magnificent woods.
JACKSONVILLE. 117
17. St. John's River.
Called Welaka (chain of lakes) by the Indians, Rivifere de
Mai by the French (1562), St. John's Kiver by the Spanish
(1564). This is tlie largest stream in Florida. It rises in
a vast tract of uncharted and unnamed lakes and marshes
near the Atlantic coast in Brevard and Osceola Counties,
about in latitude 28° 10' N., and flows northward, in a di-
rection generally parallel to the coast, but exceedingly tor-
tuous when considered in detail, a distance of nearly three
hundred miles. It falls into the sea in latitude 30° 25' N.,
between Fort George and Batten Islands on the north, and
the mainland on the south. Between this point and St.
Augustine Inlet, forty-two miles south, the mainland abuts
upon the ocean, a condition rarely found on the South At-
lantic sea-coast. Almost everywhere else a system of islands
or peninsulas lies a short distance off the coast, affording
sheltered navigation by an inside route. In this case the
St. John's River goes far to make good the lack of the usual
channel, for vessels drawing five feet can ascend about two
hundred and thirty miles, where they are only about seven
miles from the tide-water of Indian River.
The bar at the mouth of the river is one of the most
treacherous on the coast, although the construction of jetties
was begun in 1880 and still continues. Prior to this large
sums were ineffectually expended in dredging. The orig-
inal plans called for about one thousand feet of jetties,
extending in an easterly direction from deep water inside
the bar. It was thought that the scour of the tides would
thus keep clear a channel of ample width, and with 15 feet
depth at low water. The jetties had been carried out,
according to the latest official figures, more than 3,000 feet
on the north side of the channel, and about 7,000 feet on the
south side. The contractor reports 20 feet at high water.
The mean rise and fall of the tide at the bar is 4 feet 6 inches.
St. John's River Light is a red brick tower with black lan-
terns, 80 feet above sea level, showing a fixed white light of
the third order, visible 15 miles at sea (Lat. 30° 23' 37",
Long. 81° 25' 27").
118 JACKSONVILLE.
AiJproacliing from sea and looking southward along the
beach, the houses and wharves of Mayport are seen on the
left, with the works on shore where the jetty mattresses are
made and launched. Farther to the south are the hotels and
cottages of Burnside Beacli and Pablo Beach (see p. 114).
On the right of the entrance are Batten Island and Fort
George Island (see p. 115) joined by a causeway. The cluster,
of buildings is on Batten Island. It includes the pilot and
telegraph station, and some interesting and picturesque old
Coquina ruins. On both points of the river mouth forts
were erected about 1566 (see p. 124). After crossing the
bar, the most conspicuous natural object is St. John's Bluff,
with precipitous sand-slopes toward the river, and crowned
with dense woods. Elsewhere on all sides stretch wide
marshes, beautiful in color at times, and dotted here and
there with tree-covered islands, which are often shell mounds
of unknown antiquity, sometimes containing relics of pre-
historic races mucli sought after by the antiquarian.
Just under the bluff a small creek makes into the river
from tlie southward. This is navigable for row-boats for
several miles, and at flood tide affords a pleasant trip, par-
ticularly in the afternoon, when the shadow of the blutf falls
across it from the westward. About five miles up aie ruins
of abandoned rice plantations, with old sluice-gates, and evi-
dences of former cultivation. St. John's Bluff is believed to
be the site of old Fort Caroline, subsequently Fort Mateo (see
p. 121). Traces of ancient fortifications of considerable ex-
tent still exist, mingled with the half- obliterated earthworks
thrown up by the Confederates during the Civil War. The
bluff has been washed away by the river, carrying with it the
remains of the old Spanish citadel and the main works.
The position was fortified by the Confederates in the
winter of 1861-62. On September 17, 1S62, a fleet of six
United States gunboats crossed the bar, and for some hours
vigorously shelled the woods and batteries about St. John's
Bluflf. They dismounted or disabled some of the guns, and
damaged the breastworks. No landing was attempted.
On October 2, 1862, an expedition consisting of seven gun-
boats from Commodore Dupout's fleet, and escorting a de-
JACKSONVILLE. 110
tachnient of 1,500 troops, attacked the Confederate fortifica-
tions on St. John's Blnft". The Confederates soon abandoned
the works, leaving 9 guns and a considerable quantity of
munitions of war, which fell into the hands of tiie Federal
forces.
Beyond St. John's Bluff the river widens to three-quarters
of a mile. Pablo Creek and Mount Pleasant Creek find
their way through the marshes from the southward in the order
named, and Sister's Creek, Hannali Mills Creek, and Cedar
Point Creek from the northward in the order named. These
are all navigable for several miles, but are not attractive ex-
cept to sportsmen, as they are for the most part bordered by
marshes. A wooded shore, with a settlement known as the
Shijn/ard, borders the river for a mile above St. John's Bluff.
A chain of marshy islands occupies the middle of the river for
about two miles, with Clapboard Creek and Brown's Creek on
the north shore. Beyond Long Island, the last of the marshy
series, the river widens into Mill Cove, and bends to the
southwest. Dame's Point Light appears about two miles
distant. This is an iron structure, painted red, with white
upper works, standing on a shoal in mid-stream, with deep
water on both sides. It shows a fixed white light, visible
eleven miles. A mile below the light is Yellow Bluff (P. O.,
New Berlin), a village of a dozen houses, standing among
ti-ees on a bluff some thirty feet high.
Above this the stream widens to near two miles, with the
channel close to the northern shore, and trends to the north-
ward and westward. Dunn's Creek enters from the eastward
two miles above Dame's Point, with a peculiar group of pine
trees on its eastern bank. One mile farther is Drummond's
Point, between Cedar Creek on the east and Drummond's
Creek on the west. Here the river turns again to the south-
ward, and St. John's Mills is seen about two miles distant.
The stream that enters from the westward is Trout Creek.
At the south side of its month is Sandfly Point, and opposite,
across the St. John's, is Reddies Point, marshy near the water,
but with high land and numerous houses among the trees at
a little distance.
The next stretch of river is about four miles, trending
120 JACKSONVILLE.
southward. Just south of Redclies Point is Chaseville, a
small town with a wharf. Tlie easterly bank is high and
heavily wooded. Here Pottsburg Creek enters from the
eastward. On the west bank, four miles distant, is Commo-
te ore's Point, with Jacksonville showing beyond. On the
! outh bank is the lauding of the Jacksonville, Mayport &
Pablo Beach Railway & Navigation Company. Opposite Com-
modore's Point is Arlington Eiver, with the village of Arling-
ton to the north of the mouth, and Empire Point, with General
A. S. Divens' residence o2)posite. Many otlier handsome coun-
try places line the east bank of the river in this vicinity.
Rounding Commodore's Point the city is in sight, with the
bridge of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway sys-
tem crossing the river to Oklahoma and South Jacksonville.
For description of Jacksonville and vicinity see p. 103.
Domenique de Gourgues.
There is not in all history material for a more romantic,
pitiful, tragic, and heroic drama than was enacted along the
placid reaches of the lower St, John. Somewhere beneath
these shifting sands may still lie the stone cross, carved with
the fleur-de-lis of France, that Jean Ribaut raised when he
discovered the river in 1562. Fragments of arms and armor
are still found from time to time on the sites of the old
Spanish forts.
The first discoverers made their welcome harbor here on
the first day of May, and named the river in honor of that
month, but the name subsequently given by the Spaniards
superseded "La Riviere de Mai" of the Huguenots.
Perhaps Ribaut took a rose-colored view of the land after
his long sea-voyage in a crowded ship, but he certainly was
enamoured of the climate and country. " To bee short," he
wrote in his journal, as done into English (the original is not
known to exist), "it is a thing unspeakable to consider the
things that bee seene there, and .shalbe founde more and
more in this incomperable land " (Hackit's Eng. Transla-
tion of 1582). He did not long remain here, however, but,
on June 25, 1564, another French squadron of three ships
JACKSONVILLE. 121
under Ribaut's lieutenant, Ren6 ile Laudonniere, anchored
off the bar, and were welcomed by Satourioua, the powerful
chief of thirty neighboring villages. The Indians had care-
fully preserved, and even sacrificed to Kibaut's cross with its
mystic symbols. St. John's Bluff is the supjiosed site of
Fort Caroline, which the French forthwith proceeded to
build. The climate at once exercised its spell upon the
members of the expedition even in the heat of July, and
their accounts of the region are enthusiastic. Venerable In-
dians were said to have been seen who claimed to be two
and a half centuries old, and expected to live thirty or forty
years more. The Indians, after some demur, helped in
building the fort, which is depicted by Le Moyne, the
special artist of the exj^edition, in his illustrated narra-
tive. The Indians were agriculturists, though, like all
savages, they had their intertribal wars, and Satouriona was
glad of European allies. When the fort was finished the
French Protestants, eager for gold as were their Spanish
contemporaries, pushed their explorations inland, and
formed other Indian alliances. Complications and threats
of war followed, and during the winter of 15G4-65 dis-
satisfaction, conspiracy, and mutiny developed in the little
garrison of the fort. Laudonniere fell ill, provisions ran
short, the mutineers took possession under the leadership
of one Fourneaux, and plans were formed for buccaneer-
ing expeditions against the Spanish West Indies. After a
partly successful, but finally disastrous cruise, the bucca-
neers returned to Fort Caroline, and three of the leaders
were tried and executed. Their bodies were hanged on gib-
bets as a warning to future mutineers.
By May 1, 1565, the French neared the end of their re-
sources. In a land ready to yield an hundred-fold not an
acre had been tilled. The hospitality and resources of the
Indians were well-nigh exhausted, and the colony watched
wearily for reinforcements that had been promised from
France.
By dint of threats and i:>ersuasions, Laudonnifere managed
to wrest provisions enough from the Indians to carry his men
through the summer. They were building a new ship, in the
122 JACKSON vii>lj:.
hope of escaping from the now hatetl land of their exile,
when, on August 3(1, four ships appeared in the of!iiig, which
proved to be the English squadron of Sir John Hawkins,
who had been on a successful slave-hunting expedition to
the coast of Guinea. Hatred of the Sjianiard was a senti-
ment common to French Huguenot and English freebooter,
and the visit of Hawkins seemed most opportune. He
warned them of an intended Spanish attack, renewed their
store of provisions, and sold them a ship in v/hicli, with their
other vessels, they miglit hope to reach Fiance. Prepara-
tions for departure were hastened, when, on August 28th,
another fleet appeared. It was Eibaut with the long-e.\i)ected
reinforcements. All seemed favorable for the establishment
of a prosperous colony, when, to quote a graphic sentence
from Parkmau, "at half-past eleven on the night of Tues-
day, September 4th, the crew of Eibaut's flag-ship, an-
chored on the still sea outside the bar, saw a huge hulk, gi'im
with the throats of cannon, drifting toward them through
the gloom; and from its stern rolled on the sluggish air
the i^ortentous banner of Spain." It was the San Pelayo,
flagship of Pedro Menendez, accompanied by five other
vessels bearing five hundred soldiers, and commissioned to
exterminate the Lutheran colony. The French sliii)s were
not ready for a night engagement, so when the Spaniards
cleared for actiort, they slipped their cables and escajjed to
sea, keeping up a running fire as they went. Menendez
j)ursued, but the French outsailed him, and when he re-
turned he found such preparations made for defence that he
dared not risk an attack. Accordingly he sailed southward,
rejoined the rest of his squadron, and founded St. Augustine
(see p. 135). Here, then, were two "Christian" colonies on
the edge of an unknown continent, three thousand miles
from home, each plotting for the other's destruction.
Eibaut was the first to make a move. After a council of
war, he sailed for St. Augustine with almost all his able-
bodied men on September 10th, was caught in a hurricane
and wrecked near Cape Canaveral. Nearly all escaped with
their lives, but were brutally massacred by the Spaniards at
Matanzas (see p. 178). The paltry garrison under Laudon-
JACKSONVILLE. 128
niere left in Fort Caroline numbered nearly two huntlrecl,
few of them fit to bear arms, and sheltered behind a half-
dismantled fort. "When Menendez, from the redoubt at
St. Augustine, saw the French straining every nerve to
work oft" shore in the teeth of an easterly gale, he con-
ceived and acted upon the bold idea of destroying Fort Caro-
line during their absence. Contrary to the advice of his of-
ficers and priests, he marched on this hazardous errand with
five hundred men. The storm continued, but at daybreak
on September 20th, after an arduous march of three days,
during which only the iron will and fanatical exaltation of
Menendez prevented open revolt, they found themselves in
sight of Fort Caroline. Vigilance was somewhat relaxed by
the guards as day drew on. Menendez, seeing his opi:)or-
tuuity, gave the word, and his men rushed, shouting their war
cry "Santiago!" upon the nearly defenceless Frenchmen.
Resistance was made only by a few. Laudonniere, Le Moyne
the artist, and Challeaux the carpenter, all of whom wrote ac-
counts of their exjjeriences, escaped to the woods, where they
were joined by others, twenty-six in all, and succeeded event-
ually in reaching the small vessels anchored inside the bar.
At the fort the work of extermination was concluded with the
conscientious fidelity that characterized the religious wars of
the period. One hundred and forty-two souls were slain, and
their savagely mutilated remains piled upon the river bank.
Fifty, including women, infants, and boys under fifteen were
spared.
It was generally reported and believed in France that Me-
nendez hanged a number of those who had surrendered, and
placed over them this inscriijtion : " I do this not as to
Frenchmen, but as to Lutherans."
Leaving a strong garrison in the captured fort, which was
renamed San Mateo, Menendez marched back to St. Augus-
tine, where he was soon destined to deal with others of the
hated Lutherans.
On September 25th, the escaped survivors of the Fort Car-
oline massacre sailed for France in two vessels, and, arriving
in due course, spread the news of the savage deeds of the
Spaniards throughout the kingdom.
124: JACK.S(JXVILLE.
'I'lieie was boundless indignation in Fiance, but the king
— Charles IX. — was afraid of his powerful neighbor, and
woiild do nothing to avenge the insult. When his policy of
inaction became evident, a private gentleman of France, a
tried soldier, Donieuique de Gourgues by name, resolved to
take the matter into bis own Lands. He purchased three
vessels with his own means, equij^ped them, manned them
with one hundred and eighty soldiers and sailors, and set
forth on a crusade as romantic and more desperate than that
for the Holy Sepulchre. It was not until he reached Ameri-
can waters early in 1568 that he told his men the true jDur-
pose of the exisedition, and succeeded in an impassioned
speech in arousing their enthusiasm and gaining their con-
sent. Passing within sight of the Spanish forts on the St.
John's, exchanging salutes with them, indeed, De Gourgues
sailed to the St. Mary's Kiver or thereabout, and landing
found the Indians ripe for war against the Spaniards. The
chief was Satouriona, formerly the friend of Eibaut.
It took the Indians three days to muster for the onslaught
and perform their usual incantations. Then, leaving a small
guard with the shi23S, de Gourgues and his Indian allies
moved to the attack by way of Amelia Sound, to what is now
Fort George Island.
The Spaniards had partly completed a fort near the pres-
ent site of Pilot Town, and to this de Gourgues first directed
his attention, keeping his men concealed till the tide
ebbed, so that they could wade the inlet. Fortune favored
his movements, and at noon he dashed upon the unfinished
defences with sach vigor that not one of sixty Spaniards
within the works made his escajie. Olotoraca, a young chief,
the son of Satouriona, who accompanied de Gourgues as
guide, shed the first blood. Leaping the ditch with a French
pike in his hand, he transfixed a Spanish cannoneer just as he
was discharging his gun. The surprise and the victory were
complete, and, save a few reserved for a more terrible fate,
in remembrance of the acts of Menendez, all were put to
the sword.
On the opposite shore, near where Mayport now stands,
the Spaniards had another fort, which at once opened fire on
JACKSONVILLE. 125
the victorious French. One of de Gourgues' boats capable
of carrying eighty men, was j^ushed across under fire, and,
burning with hatred for the Spaniard, the Indian allies of
the French, each holding his bow and arrows above his
head, dashed into the water and swam to the south bank.
The sight was too mucli for the Spaniards ; they forsook the
fort, and attempted to reach the forest, forgetting in their
jjanic that the French had already landed. De Gourgues
met them with his arquebusiers and pikemen, and, before
they could rally for an organized onset, the Indians swarmed
across the sands and attacked with such fury that the French
could only rescue fifteen to be resented for a more deliberate
A'eugeancc.
The next day was Sunday — the Sunday after Easter — and
the Lutherans kept it by making scaling-ladders for the as-
sault on Fort San Mateo. The Indians held the woods back
of the fort so effectually that no Si^aniard could venture out-
side the works. Nevertheless, a spy in Indian disguise was
sent forth by night, but was instantly detected by Olotoraca.
This man reported that there were 260 men in the garrison,
and de Gourgues made i^reimrations to attack on Tuesday
morning. The Indians were placed in ambush on both sides
of the fort, while the French men-at-arms advanced after
daybreak along the river side, taking to cover when the
Spanish culverins opened upon them. With singular want
of prudence the Spaniards sent out a strong reconnoitring
l^arty, which Avas cleverly entrajiped by the French and
killed to a man. Conscience must have had something to
do with the action of the rest of the garrison, for many of
them had participated in the butchery of the Lutherans on
this very spot three years before. At all events, they gave
way to panic and fled to the woods on the side away from
the French. Here they were instantly surrounded by whooji-
ing savages, and the French coming upon them from the
rear, their extermination was soon complete. Sjianish au-
thorities claim, however, that some few made good their es-
cape.
It will be remembered how Menendez was said to have
hanged his prisoners, and placed over their bodies the inscrip-
12() JACKSONVILLK
tion : -'Not as to Frenclimeii, but as to Lutherans/' It was
the Frenchman's turn now. De Gourgues had with diffi-
culty saved the lives of a number of his late antagonists.
He causetl them now to be brought before him. "Did you
tliink," he said, according to his own account, " that so vile
a treachery, so detestable a cruelty, against a king so potent
and a nation so generous, would go unpunished? I, one of
the humblest of gentlemen among my king's subjects, have
charged myself with avenging it. Even if the Most Chris-
tian and Most Catholic ' Kings had been enemies at deadly
war, such perfidy and extreme cruelty would have been un-
pardonable. Now that they are friends and close allies,
there is no name vile enough to brand your deeds, no pun-
ishment sharp enough to requite them. But since you cannot
suffer such punishment as you deserve, you shall receive all
that an enemy can honorably inflict, to the end that others
may learn to preseiTe the peace and alliance that you so
treacherously and maliciously violated. Having said this,"
the narrator writes, "they were hanged on the same trees
where they had hanged the Frenchmen," and above them
was nailed this inscription, bui'ued with a hot iron on a jnne
board : " I do this, not as to Simniards, nor as to 'Marannes,'
but as to traitors, robbers, and murderers." (Marannes was
a semi-contemptuous term then applied to SiJaniards.) Thus
was the ill-fated Huguenot colony avenged.
De Gourgues and his Indian allies destroyed the forts, re-
turned in triumjah to his ships and sailed for France, where
he received a pojiular ovation, biit, will it be believed, was
coldly received by the King and Court, who were under the
spell and terror of Spain. He was even obliged for a time
to remain in concealment to escape Spanish vengeance, but
finally his services were recognized as a defender of French
honor ; he was restored to royal favor, and when he died was
eulogized as one of the bravest soldiers of his time.
' For several centuries the Kings of France and Spain were known respec-
tively by these titles.
FERNANDIXA. 127
20. Femaudiiia. Nassau Co. (C. H.).
Pop., 4,000.— Lat. SO" 49' N.— Long. 81° 26' W.— Mean rise and fall of tifle. 6
feet. See county map, pase 6G.
The Kgmont Hotel, S2 upward, special rates for permanent guests, open at
all seasons.
Railroads, Steamers, etc. — The Florida Central & Peninsula Railroad affords
direct communication with Jacksonville, Tallahassee, Cedar Key, Orlando, Plant
C!ty, etc. isee p. 6Ti, and consult local time-tables.
The steamers of the MaUory line make weekly tripe to and from New York,
leaving New York on Fridays. Time, 4S hours. Cabin passage, including
room iind table, $23.
Coastw.'se steamers ply daily through Cumberland Sound to and from the
Gieorgia ports.
History.
The harbor of Feruaiulina, the finest on the coast south
of Chesapeake Bay, was known to the early explorers,
and was jsrobably used by them as a safe anchorage. De
Gourgues made it his base of oj^erations against the Sjjan-
iards in 1568, when it was the head-quarters of an Indian
tribe able to muster some three thousand warriors. It was
not until 1808 that a permanent settlement was established
by the Spaniards. During the period of the embargo under
Jeflferson's administration it assumed considerable imijortauce
as a sea-port. In 1818, just after the second war with Eng-
land, a movement known as the Patriot War was inaugurated,
with the secret connivance of the United States Government,
and its first act was the capture of Fernandina, the Spanish
garrison offering uo resistance worth mentioning. The
leader of this movement was one McGregor, a Scotchman,
who forthwith inaugurated a period of prosperity for Fer-
nandina by making it a head-quarters for the freebooters who
still infested the Spanish main. McGregor was before long
forced to abdicate, and the collapse of the " Patriot army "
soon followed.
Fernandina grew slowly to be a place of some importance.
The railroad was opened in 1861, and at the outbreak of the
Civil War the inhabitants numbered about two thousand.
Long before this the town was well fortified against an
attack by sea. Fort Clinch, the most important of the defen-
sive works, was completed prior to the Civil War, and, being
without a garrison, was promptly seized by the Confederates
128 FERNANDINA.
in 1861. It is a pentagonal structure of brick and concrete,
with bastions and detached scarps, loopholed for musketry.
Tlie armament at that time included two large rifled guns,
and twenty-seven 32-pounders.
The i^ermanent works were flanked with water batteries,
and strengthened with sand embankments under the super-
vision of competent military engineers. A battery of four
guns was erected on Cumberland Island.
Approach by sea was imi^racticable in the face of these
guns, and in view of the tortuous channel. The harbor,
however, was imjoortant to both parties, as it afforded a
haven for blockade-runners considerably nearer than any
other to the neutral i)orts at Bermuda and on the Bahamas.
The Confederate garrison was aboiit two thousand strong,
under command of General J. H. Trapier.
On the morning of August G, 1861, the inhabitants of the
city were called to arms and to witness a race between the
United States Ship Vincennes and the Alvarado, a prize of
the Confederate privateer Jeff Davis. The latter was making
for the bar under all sail, but was forced ashore, abandoned
by her crew, and afterward fired by boat crews from the
Vincennes, it being obviously impossible to set her afloat
again. In February, 1862, an expedition was organized at
Port Eioyal by Commodore Dupont, U. S. N , and sailed on
the last day of that month for the capture of Fernaudina.
The fleet consisted of nineteen vessels, mainly gunboats of
light draught.
On reaching the upper end of the sound Commodore Du-
pont anchored to wait for the tide, and there learned from
an escaped negro slave that the garrison at Fernandina was
already abandoning the town and fortifications. The light-
est and fleetest gunboats were immediately despatched down
the Sound under Commander Percival Drayton to prevent
destruction of property if jjossible, while the rest of the
fleet took the outside passage. Cumberland Sound proved
too shallow, however, and only the Ottawa could get through.
Drayton went aboard of her and pushed on. As he passed
Fort Clinch, a boat's crew was sent to hoist the American
flag as a signal to the fleet. A white flag was displayed at
FERNANDINA. 129
Fernandina, but shots were fired at the Ottawa, and a rail-
way train drawn by two engines was discovered just moving
off. It was naturally supposed to contain trooj^s, and an ex-
citing chase ensued, as the track was for some four miles
within range of the river. The Ottawa endeavored to dis-
able the engines with her large rifled gun, but the train had
the advantage of si:)eed, and eventually left the gunboat be-
hind, escaping across the bridge. A steamer, the Darling-
ton, crowded with refugees, was less fortunate, being captured
by the Ottawa's boats.
It is significant of the then existing conditions of warfare
that Commander Drayton was a native of South Carolina,
while John Brock, captain of the captured steamboat, was a
Vermonter.
It subsequently apjaeared that the Confederate authorities
had attempted to remove all the inhabitants under the mis-
taken idea that they were in danger of brutal treatment
from the captors.
Of the United States forts seized by the Confederates, Fort
Clinch was one of the first to be regained by Government
forces. The occupation of Fernandina restored to Federal
control the whole of the sea-coast of Georgia, and afforded a
convenient base of operations against Jacksonville and St.
Augustine.
After the capture of the Darlington, the Ottawa steamed
up the St. Mary's River as far as King's Ferry, fifty-two
miles, to reconnoitre, and while returning was fired upon by
infantry, said to have been the Twenty-ninth Mississippi
Regiment, in ambush on shore. The fire was instantly
returned at short range with grape-shot, and with such
deadly effect that no further opposition was experiencedo
Several men were wounded on board the Ottawa.
130 FERNANDINA.
21. Amelia Island,
on wliicli Fernandina stands, is tliiiteeu milea long, and from
one to two and one-half miles wide. It is low and fiat, or
only gently undulating, with marshes along the inland shore,
but heavily wooded to seaward. Outside of the woods is a
belt of sand-hills and scrub, and beyond these a fine beach of
hard white sand on which it is a luxury to walk, ride, or drive.
A pleasant walk may be taken by following either the
ocean beach or one of the roads leading north from the hotel.
The village of Old Fernandina, where the first settlement was
made, is about a mile and a half from the present city.
A mile farther is Amelia Island Lighthouse, with the
keeper's dwelling pleasantly situated among trees on a
bluff about fifty feet higher than the sea level. The
light was originally established in 1836. The present tower
was built in 1880. It is 58 feet high, and the lantern is 112
feet above the sea level. It shows a white flash-light at in-
tervals of 90 seconds, vi-sible at sea 16* nautical miles.
From the lighthouse to the extreme northern point of the
island is two miles, an easy and jjleasant walk along the
ocean beach, save at high tide, when the hard belt of beach
is under water. (See maps, pp. 24: and 26.)
22. Amelia River
enters Cumberland Sound just inside the northern end of
Amelia Island. It is an arm of the sea separating the island
from Tiger Island and the mainland of Florida. This por-
tion of the strait is North Amelia River. It connects with
South Amelia River through Kiugsley's Creek, a narrow
passage with only two feet of water at the " divide " where
the tides meet at the southern end of the creek. Shar-
pies and small boats can j^ass at any time. Six feet draught
can be taken through from sound to sound at high water.
The South Amelia is narrow and crooked, bordered by ex-
tensive marshes. It receives two navigable tributaries,
Lanceford Creek and Bill's River, the latter running north-
ward into the St. Mary's through Jolly River after a tortuous
course of seven and one-half miles. (See maps, pp. 2J: and 26.)
FERNANDINA. 181
23. Nassau Sound
is formed by Amelia and Little Talbot Islandsj the inlet
between tliem being one mile and a half wide. The sound
itself is three-quarters of a mile wide for about two miles,
and then divides, forming South Amelia River on the north
and Nassau River on the south. The enti-ance is obstructed
by shifting sands, which make out to sea one mile and a
quarter, and are marked by a can buoy in twenty-four feet of
water. There is good anchorage under the south point of
Amelia Island. (See maps, pp, 24 and 26.)
24. Cumberland Sound.
The entrance to this sound is almost exactly a mile wide
between Cumberland Island on the north and Amelia Island
on the south. The sound itself, with an average width of
about a mile, is nine miles long, and affords an inside pas-
sage between the mainland of Georgia and Cumberland
Island, to St. Andrew's Sound and the Cumberland River.
Six feet draught can be carried through at low water, but
the passage is variable, owing to shifting sand, and a pilot
is necessary for all vessels of more than two feet draught.
Viewed from the offing, Cumberland Island appears to be
divided, but both parts are in reality joined by a stretch of
low land, which becomes visible on nearer approach.
Near the southern end of the island formerly stood Dun-
geuess House, the home of General Nathaniel Greene, of the
Continental army. In recognition of his conspicuous services
in the Revolutionary War, the State of Georgia gave him
this fine estate, which was for many years occupied by him
and afterward by his heirs. During the Civil War both sides
respected this historic mansion. When Fernaudina was oc-
cupied by United States Troops, a safeguard was placed on
the property, and the following order posted at the entrance :
Th^s property, belonging orlgiuallj' to General Nathaniel Greene, a Revolu-
tionary hero and a native of Rhode Island, is now the property of his grandson
Mr. Nightingale. It is hereby ordered and enjoined upon all who may visit this
132 PERNANDINA.
place to hold eve:-j-th;ng about the place sacred, and in no case diBturb or take
away any article without a special order from Flag Officer Dupont or General
Wright.
Tlius protected, the old mansion survived the dangers of
the time, only to be accidentally burned some years after-
ward. Subsequently the property was purchased by its pres-
ent owner, who removed the ruin and erected a modern
structure in its place.
Cumberland Sound is almost wholly surrounded by marshes
through which numerous tributaries find their way. The
most important of these is St. Mary's Eiver, on which is the
town of St. Mary's, Ga., about three and one-half miles
from the mouth. A work of improvement by means of
jetties was begun in 1881 by United States Army engineers,
intended to establish a deijth of twenty-one feet at mean low
water. The jetties are only partially comi^leted, and a large
portion of them are still submerged. The outer ends are
about three thousand feet apart, and the outer portions of
the jetties are jiavallel. The St. Mary's River has its source
far back in the interior, and for a long distance it forms the
boundary between Florida and Georgia. It is easily navi-
gable for sea-going vessels for ninety-three miles, but high
Avoods shut off the wind, so that it is difficult for sailing
craft. Jolly River is a navigable arm some six miles long,
and nearly jjarallel to the lower reach of the St. Mary's.
Reed's Bluflf is a conspicuous hill of white sand, seven miles
above St. Mary's. Twenty-seven miles above St. Mary's is a
cut-off, practicable for small boats at high water, which lessens
the distance by several miles. There are no special points
of interest on the river, but there are several lumber mills
and logging stations, rarely visited by tourists. These, after
leaving Reed's Bluff, are Port Henry, Wild's Landing, Brick-
yard, Germantown, Woodstock, King's Ferry, Orange Bluff,
Camp Pinckney, Calico Hill, and Trader's Hill, which is at
the head of navigation. Pleasant excursions up the river
may be made in launches from Fernandina, and fairly good
shooting may be had for water-fowl in the season. At
King's Ferry are stores where ordinary supplies may be ob-
tained.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 133
30. Saint Augustine. St. John's County.
Population, 10,000.— Lat. 29" 53' 7" N.— Long. 81" 17' 12" W.— Mean rise and
fall of tide, 4 feet.
Hotels.— (Rates are given by the day unless otherwise stated.) Alcazar,
rooms $2 upward ; restaurant d la carte. — Carletoii House, $3. — Cordova, $4 up-
ward.— Florida House, $3.50 to $4. — Hernandez, $2 to $3. — Magnolia, $3 to $4. —
Plaza Hotel, Rooms 50c. to $2. — Ponce de Leon, $5 upward. — San Marco, |4.
Special rates usually made for permanent guests, or by the week. There are
many good boarding-houses, at $8 to $15 a week.
Railways.— The lines to Jacksonville (p. 85), Palatka (p. 84), and Tocoi,
all of the J., T. & K. W. system, and the North Beach Railway, converge at
the Union Station, Malaga Street. The St. Augustine <fe South Beach Railway
on Anastasia Island is reached by ferry from Central Wharf, near the Plaza.
Carriage rate from stations to any part of city 25c. ; luggage, 25c. per piece.
Livery may generally be best engaged through hotel clerk. Saddle-horses, $1
an hour, $3 a day ; single teams. $1.50 an hoiu*, $4 a day ; double teams with
driver, $3 an hour, $5 upward n day.
Boats with attendants, 25c. to $1 an hour, $2 to $5 a day ; to be found at Central
Wharf, near Plaza. Special terms must be made for steam launches or for sail
boats for long excursions.
Guide and hunter, James Ponce, $3 to $5, according to services required, a
day.
Churches.— Ba])tmt, Sunday service, 10.30 a.m., 7.30 p.m., in Masonic Hall. —
Episcopalian, Trinity Church, south side of Plaza, Sunday service, 10.30 a.m.,
7 P.M. — Methodist, Grace Church, Cordova and Carriere Streets, Sunday service,
10.30 A.M., 7 P.M. — Presbyterian, St. George Street near Bridge, Sunday service,
10.30 A.M., 7 P.M. — Roman Catholic, St. Joseph's Cathedral, north side of Plaza,
Sunday service, 6, 3, and 10 a.m., 4 p.m.
Younij Men^s Christian Association. — Rooms in Lyon Block, comer St. Gteorge
and Alameda Streets.
Points of Interkst in St. Augustine.
Fort Marion (p: 157).
Museums (p. 166).
St. Francis Barracks, etc. (p. 165).
Hotel Ponce de Leon (p. 168j.
The Alcazar (p. 172).
The Cordova <p. 172).
Sea Wall, etc. (p. 156).
The City Gates (p. 173).
The Catholic Cathedral (p. 156).
The Plaza (p. 155).
Post Office, northern end of Plaza,
Banks.— First National, north end of Plaza (hours 9.30 a.m. to 2 p.m.).— St.
John's County Savings Bank, Hotel Cordova (hours 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.)
.S/fop*.- The best stores are in the Alcazar, on the Plaza or its immediate
vicinity, or on St. George Street, all within 10 minutes of Plaza.
Physicians may be called by telephone from all the hotels.
134 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
History.
As tlie earliest permanent settlement of Europeans within
the pi-esent territory of tlie United States, Han Augustin,
as the Spaniards wrote the name, will always be of exceii-
tional interest to Americans. In a degree it has claims also
npon Spaniards, upon the English, and npon the French,
for all of them have, at one time or another, fought for it or
against it.
The early navigators were lured to Florida by stories of
wealth and magic that met them before even they had sighted
the shores of the continent. It is curious that the fabled
" Fountain of Youth " should have crossed the ocean in ad-
vance of the Spanish ships, and yet we have the testimony
of Peter Martyr, in an address to the Fope, to the effect that
the existence of such a fountain was well attested and be-
lieved by the explorers themselves. There was, indeed, a
better foundation for this fable than for the tales of gold
that always accomijanied it. There are a score of sjDrings in
Florida, any one of which might easily impress an ignorant
or superstitious beholder with the idea of supernatural vir-
tues. Probably native descriptions of those marvellous
springs had much to do with Ponce de Leon's undoubted
belief in the legend. He was growing old, and with the
prospect of wealth and renewed youth before him, it was no
wonder that he was eager to test the truth of every story
that reached his ears. So it came to jdrss that he landed, and
claimed " Pascua Florida" for his Most Catholic Majesty the
King of Spain, a few miles north of St. Augustine. The exact
locality can never be known, but it could not have been far
from Seloy, a considerable Indian town on the site of the pres-
ent city. Hardly had the Sijaniards inade a landing, when
they were set upon by such a formidable baud of Indians that
they were glad to escape to their boats, carrying with them,
fatally wounded, their gallant old commander. This was on
April 3, 1512, and, as it is not likely that so large a war party
of Indians could have been hastily rallied at a distance from
some large town, we may safely assume that Ponce de Leon
made his great discovery and received his death-wound al-
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 135
most within sight of the spot where the French Huguenot,
Kene de Laudonnifire, landed fifty-two years afterward (June
22, 1564). Laudonni(5re translated the native name Seloy
into French, inadvertently, jjerhaps, and named the estuary
La Riviere des Dauphines, because of the numerous jior-
poises or " dolphins " that then, as now, made it their feed-
ing-ground. The French, however, sailed away in search of
a more promising location, and eventually built Fort Caro-
line on the St. John's River (see p. 118).
This French expedition was the immediate cause of the
Spanish settlement at St. Augustine. It was essentially a
Protestant colony, sent out under the patronage of Admiral
Coligny, and with the assent of Charles IX., then king of
France. When news of the building of Fort Caroline
reached Madrid, great was the wrath of the Spanish king
and his courtiers. It was bad enough that the Spanish
rights of discovery should be invaded, but that the invaders
should be heretics was more than Catholic human nature
could endure. Pedro Menendez de Aviles, a devout and
bigoted religionist, a brave, cruel, and uncompromising
soldier, was commissioned to exterminate the French Colony.
His compact with the king bound him to transport to Flori-
da 12 priests, 4 Jesuit fathers, 100 horses, 200 horned cattle,
400 sheeja and goats, 400 swine, and 500 slaves. He agreed to
establish two or three towns, each of 100 families, and was
to have the title of Adelentado, or governor, and Marquis,
with various other privileges and emoluments.
With 2,600 men in 11 vessels he sailed, and on September
7, 1565, anchored in the River of Dolphins with about half
his fleet.
" On Saturday, the eighth day of September," writes Fray
Francisco Loj^ez de Mendoza, Chaplain of the fleet, " the day
of the Nativity of Our Lady, the General disembarked with
numerous banners displayed, trumpets and other martial
music resounding, and amid salvos of artillery. Carrying a
cross, I proceeded at the head, chanting the hymn 7e Deum
Laudamns. The General marched straight up to the cross, to-
gether with all those who accompanied him, and, kneeling,
they all kissed the cross. After this, possession was formally
136 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
taken in the name of his Majesty, and the officers all took an
oath of allegiance."
To the many Indians who watched these ceremonies all
this must have been a wonderful sight. The chaplain says
that they imitated whatever they saw done, kneeling, cross-
ing themselves and bowing as they saw the Europeans do.
The Indian village of Seloy, or Selooe, stood where the
city now is, and it must have been a place of considerable
importance. The chief was friendly, and assigned quarters
to the soldiers in a large building situated near the shore.
Fatigue parties were instantly set to work, and, almost be-
fore the kindly chief knew what was doing, a little Si^anish
fort stood in the midst of his village, with guns in position,
and sentries walking their beats in regular EurojDean style.
From that day to this St. Augustine has been the abode of
Europeans. After the devout custom of the Spanish ex-
plorers, the place was at once named in honor of the Saint
of that day, who providentially was a very distinguished
Saint, namely, Aurelius Augustinus, easily the greatest of
the four fathers of the Christian Church (a. d. 354 to A. d. 430).
He was Bishop of Hippo Regius, the ancient seat of the
Numidiau kings, and his memory and teachings are still
cherished alike by Catholics and Protestants.
Eighty cannon were forthwith landed, and the post was
speedily j^ut in a state for defence.
On September 10th the French ships came down from the
St. John's in the night, and, according to the good chaplain
before quoted, were only j)revented from capturing the ves-
sels and all who were left on board, by the special interpo-
sition of Our Lady of Bon Secours d' Utrera, who, in answer
to the prayers of the frightened mariners, descended in per-
son upon one of the vessels, bringing a breeze that enabled
all to escape. Further than this, the good lady, or some
other power, caused a terrific gale lo arise, which wrecked the
French fleet before it could regain the St. John's.
Now was Menendez's opportunity. He promptly despatched
five hundred men, knowing that the garrison at Fort Caro-
line must be greatly weakened, sui*prised and captured the
fort, and put to the sword those of the garrison whom he
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 137
did not hang (see i>. 123). This success "was followed by the
surrender and execution of most of tlie shipwrecked French-
men at Matauzas Inlet (see p. 178).
On Sejitember 28, 1565, St. Augustine set the example
that has since been followed by neaily every town in the
State — it had a great fire. The quarters occupied by the
garrison were consumed, with large quantities of stores and
jjrovisions. Incendiarism was suspected, but never proved.
Work was begun immediately on a regular fortification, the
Sjianiards having before them a wholesome fear of French
vengeance for the recently perpetrated massacres. More-
over, it was learned presently that about two hundred French-
men still survived, and had fortified themselves at Canaveral
— probably north of the present Caj^e of that name. Against
this fort Menendez presently moved, and one hundred and
fifty of the garrison surrendered, and for some inexplicable
reason were courteously treated as prisoners of war.
The winter that followed was a most trying one to the
garrison, increased as it was by the accession of the French
l^risoners. The Indians, friendly at first, had been estranged,
as usual, by cruel treatment from the Spaniards. No one
could go outside the fort to hunt or fish without danger from
an ever-vigilant and pretematurally crafty foe. It is credibly
stated that more than one hundred and twenty of the gar-
rison were thus killed, including several ofiicers.
At this crisis, while provisions were growing scarce,
Menendez went to Cuba for relief. During his absence the
garrison mutinied, and not even his return sufficed wholly to
restore discipline. Altogether some five hundred men re-
turned to Cuba, Mexico, and Spain, and for the first time
in history Florida was denounced to intending settlers as
barren, swampy, and unproductive.
The fort was completed before sjiring, but by June pro-
visions again ran short, and but for the timely arrival from
Spain of a fleet of seventeen vessels with 1,500 men and ample
supplies the attempt to colonize Florida must have been
abandoned. Juan de Avila was admiral of this fleet, and
with him he brought to Menendez a welcome letter from
his royal master, Philip II., wherein the " retribution you
138 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
have visited upon the Lutheran pirates " was warmly com-
mended. In the meantime, operating from St. Augustine,
as head-quarters, several colonies were planted, and, leaving
affairs in a seemingly prosperous condition, Menendez caused
to be built a 20-ton '-frigate," of veiy light construction,
in which he sailed for Sjiain, making the run to the Azores,
more than three thousand miles, in the remarkably short
time of seventeen days. He was received with high honors
by Philip II , but in the meantime vengeance was brewing
in France, and before Menendez could return to St. Augus-
tine, the soldier of fortune, Domenique de Gourgues, had
captured the Sisanish forts on the St. John's, and avenged
the massacre of the Huguenot colony (see p. 120).
Shortly after this Menendez returned from Spain to find
the garrison at St. Augustine again on the point of starva-
tion and mutiny. It seems incredible that, in such a pro-
lific land as Florida has since proved to be, no serious efforts
were made to cultivate the soil, but it is certain that starva-
tion more than once threatened the garrison at St. Augustine
during the nine years that intervened before Menendez's
death.
In the Church of San Nicolas, at A\'iles, is a handsome
monument bearing the following inscription, which is here
translated to show the distinguished titles and honors held
by the founder of " San Augnstin : "
" Here lies buried the illustrious Cavalier Pedro Menen-
dez de Aviles, a native of this city, Adelantado of the Prov-
inces of Florida, Knight Commander of Santa Cruz of the
order of Santiago, and Captain General of the Oceanic Seas,
and of the Armada which his Royal Highness collected at
Santander in the year 1574, where he died in the 55th year
of his age."
After its founder's death the colony at St. Augustine was
left mainly to its own resources, and soon began to learu
how to take care of itself. It passed through the usual
trials of a frontier town during the twelve years that fol-
lowed, slowly growing, however, in strength and resources.
On May 28 (O. S.), 1586, the English freebooter. Sir Francis
Drake, was sailing up the coast and discovered a lookout on
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 139
Anastasia Island. "None amongst us had any knowledge
of it at all," says Drake in bis narrative. So an armed party
was sent ashore, who discovered the fort and town, and re-
jjorted accordingly. Upon this Drake landed a cannon near
the head of the island and opened fire just as night fell.
The first shot " strake through the Ensigne," and the second
struck the wall of the fort. Darkness prevented further op-
erations, but during the night Christopher Carleil, the lieu-
tenant-general, made a reconnoissanee in " a little rowing
Skiife," and was fired at from the fort.
Morning dawned, and, continues Drake in his narrative,
"forthwith came a Frenchman, being a Phijjher, in a little
boat, playing on his Phiph the tune of the Prince of Orange
his Song." The deserter proved to be one Nicolas de Bur-
goyne, who had been spared by Menendez at the time of the
Huguenot massacre. He reported the evacuation of the
fort. The English immediately manned their boats without
waiting for full daylight, and found the French fifer's report
true, the garrison of 150 men having fled in such haste that
the treasure-chest, containing £2,000, fell into Drake's hands.
An advance was then made upon the town, which lay some
three-quarters of a mile to the southward, but, after a feeble
show of resistance, both soldiers and inhabitants fled, and
Drake pillaged and burned the place, which had by this
time attained quite a respectable size, with a "Hall of
Justice," a parish church, a monastery, and twelve squares
of dwellings and other buildings, each with its garden on
the west side.
The fort (St. John of the Pines) was a rude octagonal af-
fair of pine logs, set palisadewise, was without ditches, and
is described as quite incapable of resisting such an attack as
Drake could have delivered. The narrative says, in fact,
"So as to say the truth they had no reason to keepe it, being
subject both to fire, and easie of assault."
The English soon dejjarted, and the Spanish governor, a
nephew and namesake of the original founder, led back his
colony and began the work of reconstruction.
In 1592 twelve Franciscan missionaries amved and began
systematically to work for the conversion of the Indians.
140 SAINT AUGUSTINli;.
The governor had encouraged Indian settlements, and two
villages liad been established, known as Talomato and
Tapoqui, the first being in or near the northwest i)art of the
town, and the second a little to the northward of the fort,
where was an Indian church consecrated to '* Our Lady of
the Milk." In 1598 the native converts began to tire of ec-
clesiastical restraint, and under the leadership of a young
chief broke into the chapel at Talomato, which stood near the
present Roman Catholic Cemetery, and killed Father Corpa
while at his evening devotion. Thence they went to Tapoqui
and sei-ved Father Roderiguez in like manner, permitting
him, however, at his own request, to put on his vestments
and say mass. He was killed before the altar, which it is
said was spattered with his blood. The fierce young chief
then led his band against the several other missions that
bad been established up and down the coast and in the in-
terior and very nearly exterminated the Franciscan brother-
hood in Florida. Of course, summary vengeance was taken
by the Spaniards, who burned villages and granaries, when
they could not catch the marauders themselves. The fate of
the martyred priests served only to stimulate the missionary
spirit among the Franciscans, and in a few years there were
twenty prosperous missions in as many of the principal
Indian towns with their headquarters at St. Augustine.
In 1638 the Apalachian Indians rose against the Spaniards,
and many prisoners were brought to St. Augustine and set to
work on the fortifications. By 1647 there were 300 house-
holders, resident in the city, and 50 Franciscans occupied
the monastery. There was a parish church with a full staff
of ecclesiastics, and the fort was rebuilt on a more secure
plan. Menendez the Second had been killed by Indians, and
his son-in-law, Hernando de Alas, succeeded him — the last
of the Menendez line.
Diego de Eebellado was Captain-General from 1655 till
1675 and during his term of office (1665)Cai)tain John Davis,
an English freebooter like his predecessor Drake, came up
from Jamaica with a fleet of seven small vessels, landed
somewhere south of the town and marched directly upon it
with a force probably greatly superior to that of the garrison.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 141
At all events, the town was sacked, the garrison, two hundred
in number, apparently remaining in the fort, not being strong
enough to make resistance or afford protection. At this time
the fort was square, with bastions, and capable of a good de-
fence. The English, at any rate, seem to have deemed it pru-
dent to take themselves oflf with their plunder without at-
tacking the fort.
Don Juan Marquez de Cabrera was appointed Governor in
1681, and took in hand energetically the work of comjjleting
the castle (see p. 158). At this time incipient hostilities
began between the Spaniards in Florida and the English and
Scotch in Georgia and the Carolinas, each side finding just
cause for complaint in the encroachments of the other. In
1675, and again in 1685, the Governor of St. Augustine sent
armed expeditions against Port Royal. The second one was
successful, the Spaniards breaking up Lord Oardross' colony
and plundering plantations along the Edisto River.
In 1687 Captain Juan de Aila brought from Spain the
first negro slave imported to the colony, an event that was
bailed with joy by the inhabitants. Menendez, it will be re-
membered was authorized to import five hundred slaves, but
he never did it, and though the Spaniards did not hesitate to
enslave Indians whenever convenient, they did not prove so
tractable as negroes.
Under Don Diego de Quiroga y Losada, in 1690, the con-
struction of a sea-wall was undertaken as a public work, and
in the following year substantial aid was received from the
home government. This old wall apparently extended from
the castle to the present Plaza. Portions of it were visible
along the middle of Bay Street until about 1860, and exca-
vation, were it desirable, would no doubt reveal a consider-
able i^ortion of the old structure, which the progress of mod-
ern improvement has covered up (see p. 156).
The year 1702 saw war formally declared between Great
Britain and Spain, and James Moore, then Governor of South
Carolina, a man of energetic and warlike instincts, organized
an expedition against St. Augustine. The castle was now in
shape to stand a siege, and preparations were made accord-
ingly. The inhabitants removed their valuables within the
142 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
walls. Moore's attack was i)lanned T)y land and sea, but the
land forces under Colonel Daniel arrived first, and occui:)ied
the town without opposition. Shortly afterward the fleet of
transports appeared in the offing and the castle was com-
pletely invested.
The walls were found to be too strong for the light ord-
nance brought by Governor Moore and two different mes-
sengers were sent to Jamaica for heavier guns. The first
messenger proved inefficient, but the second, Colonel Daniel,
procured the guns and returned with great expedition. In
the meantime, however, two Spanish frigates appeared in the
offing and Moore, thinking that Colonel Daniel could not
now accomplish his mission, raised the siege and marched
home, abandoning or burning his ships and firing the town
as he departed. When Colonel Daniel returned with his ord-
nance and stores he narrowly escaped capture, not know-
ing that his colleagues had withdrawn. The Carolinians
carried home a considerable quantity of rich booty, includ-
ing vestments and plate from the churches, and thus was St.
Augustine again forced to begin her career over again. There
is but small doubt that had Moore awaited Daniel's return,
the castle would have fallen, for the Spanish frigates had
but two hundred men, who could not have afforded substan-
tial aid. The siege had lasted nearly three months, and the
beleaguered garrison was glad to have it end at any cost.
This narrow escaj^e had the eifect of inducing a more lib-
eral policy on the part of the home government. Money and
men were sent to complete and strengthen the fortifications,
but in 1712 there was nearly a famine, for the provision
ships failed to arrive and the Spanish colonists for some
reason had not learned to make a living by peaceful means.
The year 1725 found the city with an enemy again at her
gates, this time Colonel Palmer, of South Carolina. He was
merely on a raid, however, and as the city was walled by this
time, he could only destroy everything outside the gates.
Seven years jiassed. Another martial governor had ajj-
peared in the north, to wit, James Edward Oglethorpe, of
Georgia. War still existed between Great Britain and Spain,
and Oglethorpe, under instructions from the English Crown,
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 143
made a descent upon St. Augustine. The expedition was
orgauized •with a view to ending the partisan warfare that
had so long subsisted between English and Spanish colo-
nists. Oglethorpe held the king's commission as a general
officer; a regiment of the line was sent from England to
join the expedition, and several hundred volunteers were en-
rolled among the colonists. Four 20-gun ships and two
sloops formed the naval force.
The Governor of Florida at this time was Don Manuel de
Monteano, an energetic and able commander, who made
every effort to strengthen his jDosition. The population of
St. Augustine was about two thousand. The garrison num-
bered about seven hundred and forty men, horse, foot, and
artillery. There were fifty pieces of cannon in the castle —
12- to 48-pounders. Don Antonio de An-edondo, an able of-
ficer of engineers, strengthened the works, and threw up in-
trenchments around the town, the remains of some of which
are still visible.
Oglethorpe's forces rendezvoused at the mouth of the St.
John's, May 24, 1739. Two Si^anish forts on the river, at
Picolata, had already been captured.
About two miles north of the Castle of St. Marks was an
outwork called "Negro Fort," or "Fort Moosa," having at
that time water commimication with the castle through a
tidal creek. It was originally intended as a shelter for plan-
tation hands against the Indians, whence its name, but was
subsequently garrisoned by the Spaniards. The English
found it deserted, and decided to destroy it. Probably this
was the resiilt of some misunderstanding, for hardly was the
work begun, when it was countermanded, and Colonel Palmer
was sent with 133 men to hold the position.
On June 6th, Colonel Vanderdusen arrived with the North
Carolina Regiment, having marched down the beach from
the St. John's, but it was not until June 20th that the fleet
took position and St. Augustine was faiily invested. On
Anastasia Island, directly opposite the castle was a battery
of four 18-pounders, and one 9-pounder. Two more 18-
l^ounders were mounted on higher land. On San Matteo, or
North Eiver Point were seven more pieces, and, according
144: SAINT AUGUSTINE.
to Spanish accounts, there were thirty-four mortars in posi-
tion. Tlie remains of the principal battery on Anastasia
Island can still be traced.
The town was at once rendered untenable by the English
guns, and the inhabitants sought shelter in the fort. On
the night of June 25th a sortie in force was made from the
castle, and the insufficient garrison at Fort Moosa was over-
powered after a sharp fight. Colonel Palmer, the nominal
commandant, had from the first protested against being left
with so few men in an exjDosed position out of reach of suc-
cor, and, moreover. Captain Mcintosh, commanding a High-
lander detachment that formed part of the garrison, was dis-
posed to be insubordinate — facts which, taken in connection
with the partial destruction of the fort, sufficiently account
for its capture. Nevertheless, a stubborn resistance was
made, and two assaults were repulsed. A third was more
successful, and the S^janiards gained the interior of the work,
where their superior numbers soon compelled submission.
A few of the garrison cut their way out and escaped to the
English lines, but Colonel Palmer was killed, fighting to
the last. Captain Mcintosh, with about twenty of his men,
was captured and taken to Spain.
After this hostilities consisted mainly of an artillery duel
between the castle and the batteries, resulting in small
damage to either side. The walls of the old fort still bear
marks of shot and shell, but the range was too great for
the ordnance of that period ; the missiles merely imbedded
themselves harmlessly in the coquina ramparts.
Oglethorpe, indeed, counted upon starvation to compel sur-
render, and his hopes might probably have been realized,
but for the unaccountable omission to guard Mosquito and
Matanzas Inlets, thus leaving the authorities at Havana free
to send supplies in resjionse to Monteano's apjieals for aid.
There is some doubt as to whether the siege was raised be-
fore or after the wants of the garrison were relieved. Be
that as it may, Oglethorpe and his officers believed that sup-
plies had been received, and were satisfied early in July that
it was useless to protract the siege with the means at hand.
On the lOtli of that month, therefore, the little army crossed
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 145
the river, and paraded — drums beating and colors flying —
"within sight of the castle, in the vain hope that the Span-
iards would come out and fight in the open. Monteano very
properly and prudently declined this challenge, and so, after
a month of siege, " La siempre Jiel Ciiidad de San Augustln "
was once more left to her balmy sea-breezes, with the flag
of Sixain floating above her ramparts.
Great credit is due to the courage, fortitude, and ready re-
source displayed by Governor Monteano during this siege.
Early in the .siDring of 1742 St. Augustine was the centre of
vigorous preparations for a retaliatory exi^edition. A fleet
of thirty vessels gathered in the harbor and outside the bar,
and, about July 1st, sailed with Monteano in command to
carry the war into Oglethorpe's own territory. Barring some
temporary successes the expedition was a failure.
In March, 171.3, Oglethorpe was again before the city
gates, and so swiftly did he come that his Indian scouts
overtook and slew a number of Spanish soldiers (forty ac-
cording to Oglethorpe's report) under the very walls of the
castle.
Oglethorpe was merely engaged in a foray, however, and
after seeking in vain to induce the garrison to come out and
fight, he returned as quickly as he came.
Don Alonzo Fernandez de Herrara was appointed Gover-
nor in 1755. Under his administration the castle was com-
pleted as it now stands, all save the water battery, which is of
modern construction.
After a tacit suspension of hostilities a treaty was ratified
whereby Florida passed into the hands of Great Britain, and
in 176.3 the Cross of St. George at last took the place of the
Spanish lion on the flagstaff of the castle.
With English rule came an abrupt change of ijolicy. The
population of the city had, until now been semi-military,
largely under pay from the crown, and correspondingly idle
and worthless. Nothing whatever had been done to dis-
cover or develop the resources of the country. No sooner,
however, had the English taken possession than they began
to encourage immigration by publishing accounts of the soil
and climate which were quite as trustworthy as some of
146 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
more recent date and finer typography. Stork's map of the
city (1752) is very minute, showing every lot and alleyway in
detail. Under the English flag the Castle of St. Mark be-
came St. John's Fort.
To the Spanish residents the change of flags was unendur-
able, and nearly all of them emigrated at short notice, not-
withstanding civil and religious liberty was guaranteed by
the terms of the treaty. Such was their malicious temper
that the commandant of the post. Major Ogilvie, had much
ado to keep them from destroying their houses. Even the
outgoing Governor uprooted and destroyed the fine garden
of the official residence.
During the night of January 2, 1766, the mercury fell to
20^ and, for the first time on record, lime, citron, and ba-
nana trees were killed in St. Augustine.
In the manuscript of John Gerard Williams de Brahm, in
the collection of Harvard University, it appears that the
number of inhabitants of St. Augustine and vicinity was 288
householders (144 of them married), and upward of 900 ne-
groes. The coquina lighthouse, constructed by the Span-
iards on Anastasia Island, was surmounted in 1769 by a
wooden superstructure, sixty feet high, from which a system
of signals was displayed for the benefit of mariners.
The first English Governor was Lieutenant-Colonel James
Grant, of the Fortieth foot. He was appointed in 1760, and in-
augurated many wise measures for the improvement of the
town and colony. One of his most noteworthy undertakings
was the construction of public highways leading north and
south from St. Augustine. In spite of the neglect of suc-
ceeding generations these roads are still among the best in
the country. During his governorship he led two consider-
able expeditions, the first against rebellious North Carolin-
ians, and the second against the Cherokee Indians. Siibse-
quently he was promoted general for services in the Koyal
Army during the war for American Independence.
Governor Grant retired iu 1771 and was succeeded by
Governor Moultrie, a brother of him who was afterward a
leader in the Kevolutionary War. His administration of
aftairs was somewhat stormy, and in 1774 he was succeeded
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 147
by Governor Tonyn, who came out from England for the pur-
pose. In the meantime the northern colonies had revolted,
and one of the first acts of the new Governor was to issue
a proclamation inviting the loyalists of Georgia and the
Carolinas to Florida, assuring them protection and immunity
from rebel raids. As a result the poj)ulation of St. Augus-
tine and vicinity was largely increased.
The sentiment of the town was intensely loyalist, and when
news of the Declaration of Independence was received,
Adams and Hancock were burned in eflfigy in the Plaza where
the monument now stands.
In August, 1775, there were several British cruisers at
anchor inside the bar and a considerable garrison in the fort,
for St. Augustine was a convenient station for military and
naval ojierations. A powder-laden vessel from London,
named the Betsy, lay off the bar waiting a favorable tide to
run in. She was discovered by an enterprising American
privateer from Carolina and captured under the very eyes of
fleet and gaiiison. To one who knows this coast such an oc-
currence is easily explained. An easterly wind in connection
with a heavy swell on the bar or a flood tide would render a
rescue out of the question, by anything save a fleet of steam
launches — i^erhaps not even by them. The impotent wrath
of the local royalists may be imagined.
In 1778, the British garrison being small, much anxiety
was caused in the royalist city by the organization of an
American expedition for its capture. The plan was aban-
doned for some reason, and St. Augustine saw nothing of
the " rebels." A successful British expedition against Sa-
vannah, Ga., was organized under General Prevost at St.
Augustine in 1778, making the town gay for a time with
scarlet uniforms on shore and a fleet of transports in the
harbor.
After the capture of Charleston, S. C, by the British in
1780, sixty-one prominent citizens of the place were seized
for their rebellious sentiments and brought to St. Augustine
as prisoners of war and hostages.
The nominally full list as published in Fairbanks' " History "
is as follows, and is reproduced here as of interest from the
148
SAINT AUGUSTINE.
many prominent family names that it contains. The number
it will be be noticed falls four short of the alleged total :
John J. Budd.
Edward Blake.
Joseph Bee.
Richard Beresford.
John Berwick.
D. Bordeaux.
Robert Cochrane.
Benjamin Oudworth.
H. V. Crouch.
I. S. Cripps.
Edward Darrell.
Daniel Dessaussure.
John Edwards.
George Flagg.
Thomas Ferguson.
General A. C. Gadsden.
William Hazel Gibbs.
Thomas Grinball.
William Hall.
George A. Hall.
Isaac Holmes.
Thomas Heyward, jr.
Richard Hutson.
Colonel Isaacs.
Noble Wimberly Jones.
William Johnstone.
William Lee.
Richard Lushington.
Morton
William Logan.
Rev. John Lewis.
William Massey.
Alexander Moultrie.
Arthur Middleton.
Edward McCready.
John Mouatt.
Edward North.
John Neufville.
Joseph Parker.
Christoiiher Peters.
Benjamin Postell.
Samuel Prioleau.
John Earnest Poyas.
General Rutherford.
Edward Rutledge.
Hugh Rutledge.
John Sansom.
Thomas Savage.
Josiah Smith.
Thomas Singleton.
James Hampden Thompson.
John Todd.
Peter Timothy.
Anthony Toomer.
Edward Weyman.
James Wakefield.
Benjamin Waller.
Wilkinson.
The Governor, Patrick Tonyn, as shown by an oflScial
letter to Lord St. Germain, sought " to have them treated
with great contempt, and to have any friendly intercourse
with them is considered as a mark of disresjiect to his
Majesty and displeasing to me." Nevertheless, these jjesti-
lent rebels appear to have made friends, and increased the
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 149
number of the disaflfected even in St. Augustine itself.
They were in custody for nearly a year, and were then sent to
Philadelphia to be exchanged.
About this time, 1780, the policy of evacuating East Flor-
ida altogether began to be agitated, and an order to this ef-
fect was actually issued by Sir Guy Carleton, but subse-
quently revoked. The province had, in fact, grown wonder-
fully under British rule. The exports of East Florida (that
is, of St. Augustine) amounted in 1768 to £14,078, in 1778
to £48,236. In 1781, owing largely to the Eevolutionary War,
they fell to £30,715. St. Augustine had been a considerable
port of entry for coastwise and foreign traffic, and every-
thing pointed to a prosperous future, when, after the Inde-
pendence of the United States was recognized, the British
Government, on September 3, 1783, re-ceded Florida to
Spain, with the very unsatisfactory stijDulation that the
English inhabitants might have eighteen months of grace
wherein to sell out their property, or move their effects. Al-
most to a man the English settlers decided to emigi-ate, but
they did so under great hardship and loss, having been in-
duced to settle in Florida by liberal grants of land.
During the British occupation St. Augustine became the
centre of a rather select society. Among the residents, of-
ficial and otherwise, were Sir Charles Burdett, Chief Justice
Drayton, the Rev. John Forbes, General James Grant,
Lieutenant-Governor Moultrie, William Stark, the historian,
the Rev. N. Frazer, Dr. Andrew TurnbuU, Bernard Romans,
Esq., civil engineer, James Moultrie, Esq., and William
Bartram, Esq., the Quaker naturalist and author. Bar-
racks capable of containing five regiments were erected
south of the present town, and the old city within its gray
coquina walls must have been a very pleasant place of resi-
dence.
The wonderful productiveness of "Florida sand" had
been promptly discovered by English gardeners, and to this
day evidences of their thrift and energy are aj^parent, not
only in the city itself but wherever the land was exception-
ally good within a reasonable distance from the coast.
In June, 1784, the new Spanish governor, Zespedez by
150 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
name, took possession, and again after twenty years' absence
the banner of Spain floated over the castle walls. This
transfer inaugurated what was perhaps the most idyllic ye-
riod of the city's history. The world went on fighting as
usual, but St. Augustine had ceased to be a bone of conten-
tion. The young republic to the northward was some-
what aggressive, it is true, but the new order of things
did not for a generation intimately affect the old city.
Under the wise and temperate government of Don Enrique
White a somewhat unique Spanish community appears
to have developed. Music, dancing, civil and ecclesiastical
feasts, and all the light amusements dear to the Latin heart,
were celebrated during the genial winter months and the
city was a veritable bower of tropical vegetation, with naiTow,
paved' streets lined with cool gray coquiiia- walled houses.
Within the gates no hoof of horse ever sounded. Those who
could afford to ride rode in palanquins.
In 1792 the city suffered an irreparable loss in the biirn-
ing of the British barracks — five large brick buildings that
stood to the southward of the town.
In a most entertaining volume, entitled " A Voyage to the
Spanish Main" (London, 1819), "An English Gentleman,"
whose name has never come to light, gives a charming pic-
ture of the city and its manners and customs at the time of
his visit (1817), albeit that was almost the beginning of the
end.
The second war between the United States and Great
Britain (1812-1814) indicated unmistakably the manifest
destiny of Florida. The young republic had acquired by
purchase from France all the surrounding territory. An
American, or " patriot " party was growing in strength, even
under Spanish rule, and marauders, too often aided and
abetted by United States officials, rendered life and property
insecure.
Negotiations followed between the governments at Wash-
ington and Madrid, and as the result of a treaty ratified in
February, 1821, the Spanish flag was lowered on July 10th
of that year and the stars and strii^es rose in its place.
European residents in St. Augustine had already spread
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 151
the fame of her climate, and no sooner was the State fairly in
the Union than invalids began to flock thither during the
winter months.
The facilities for travel were, however, so inferior in those
days that, until the establishment of coastwise steamboat
routes, about 1827, no one foresaw the coming importance
of the modern winter resort. For fifteen years St. Augus-
tine enjoyed peace and prosperity, but in 1835 the Seminole
War broke out, and she was again an important centre of mil-
itary preparations. During this period great prosperity
prevailed, stimulated, of course, by the fictitious values in-
duced by Government contracts. War parties of Indians
prowled under the veiy walls, and many massacres occurred
in the vicinity.
In Februaiw, 1835, the mercury fell to 7° F. , a jioint that
has never been touched since. Even the wild orange-trees
were killed to the ground.
Hostilities continued, with more or less danger to the in-
habitants of the city, until 1842, when the Indians were finally
subjugated in this vicinity or driven far to the southward
among the everglades. From this time may be dated St.
Augustine's prosperity as a resort for invalids and tourists,
a prosperity that was not seriously interrupted until the
winter of 1860, when the indications of coming civil war be-
tween the States became so marked that Northern invalids
dared not risk their usual flight to the South.
Secession found Fort Marion in charge of Ordnance Ser-
geant Douglas, U. S. A., and, like many another of his fel-
lows about this time, he was confronted on January 7, 1861,
by a company of volunteers under orders from the Gov-
ernor of the State, demanding a surrender of his chai-ge.
He Jiad no choice bui to comply, although he required a re-
ceipt for all property from the Governor's aide. By this
prompt action, prior by three days, indeed, to the passage of
the Ordnance of Secession, the State, and subsequently the
Confederacy, secured 6 field batteries of four guns each, 20
sea-coast and garrison cannon, 31 foreign guns of various
calibres, and a quantity of small arms and ammunition.
The United States ensign was pulled down, not without
152 .SAINT AUGUSTINE.
some unspoken misgivings on the part of the more thought-
ful spectators, and for more than a year tlie '■ stars and
bars " floated at the flagstaff.
On March 11, 1862, the United States gunboat Huron,
Commander C. P. E. Rogers, appeared in the offing, crossed
the bar with some difficulty, and approached the city under
a flag of truce, as had been directed by Commodore Duijont.
A white flag was soon hoisted on Fort Marion. Uj^on this
Commander Rogers went ashore with an unarmed crew and
was received by the Mayor and City Council, who informed
him that the small Confederate garrison of two companies
had evacuated the fort during the night. The guns of the
foi't were not spiked, and on recommendation of Commander
Rogers the Mayor had the national ensign hoisted on the
fort. The whole affair was conducted with courtesy on
both sides, and an adequate garrison of United States troops
was soon landed to take permanent possession. About one
thousand five hundred of the inhabitants remained in the
city, some five hundred having fled when it became evident
that no defence would be made. On the evening before the
arrival of the gunboats a number of women cut down the
flagstaff in front of the United States barracks, in order to
delay the hoisting of the national colors. This appears to
have been the only overt act of hostility that was jiermitted
bv he cooler headed of the inhabitants, who well knew the
futility of resistance under the circumstances.
Shortly after the Federal garrison had taken possession, a
detail of the Tenth Connecticut Regiment was attacked by
a squadron of Confederate cavalry, while acting as guards
for a party of wood-cutters. The attacking party made a
dash for the teams of the wood-cutters, but were driven off
after a shaip skirmish. Three of the Connecticut men were
killed and their commanding officer, Lieutenant Brown, was
fatally wounded.
During the remaining years of the Civil "VTar St. Augustine
was merely a quiet gaii-ison town under martial law, with
the avenues of approach duly guarded and gunboats often at
anchor inside the bar. The soldiers of the garrison, like the
Spaniards and the English who preceded them in former
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 153
wars, enjoyed such excellent health that the sick list proved
a telling advertisement for the healthfulness of the climate.
No sooner were hostilities over than inquiries began to
arrive from the North as to hotel accommodations for the
coming winter, and very soon the sound of preparation
was heard. New hotels were built, largely with Northern
capital, new and unfamiliar Paris fashions appeared with
early winter along the sea-wall, and the old Spanish city en-
tered upon a career of prosperity which soon surpassed her
wildest dreams.
Description.
The city of St. Augustine stands near the southern extrem-
ity of a peninsula formed by the Matanzas and San Se-
bastian Rivers. The land is in the main level, low in some
places, and where not cultivated is covered with the beach
scrub common to this vicinity. The land approaches to
St. Augustine are by no means inviting, as all three of the
railroad lines thread miles of fiat woods and cross other miles
of prairie before the towers and sj^ires of the city can be
seen. Carriages and hotel stages are always in waiting at
the station, and the drive to the city, about three-quarters of
a mile, is over a delightfully smooth asphalt pavement. A
wide range of choice is offered in the matter of hotels and
boarding-houses.
Tlte Plaza de la Constitucion and its surroundings form the
nucleus of the city. This public square was established
when the town was originally laid out. Its dimensions are
very modest, though the narrowness of the adjacent streets
lend it, by contrast, some apparent extent. Standing on the
sea-wall and facing eastward, one looks across Matanzas
Eiver, three-qiiarters of a mile, to Anastasia Island with its
spiral striped lighthouse, its wharf and miniature railroad
train, scrab-palmetto and bushes. To the left the land
drops away to a beach, where Sir Francis Drake posted a
gun one evening in 3586 and pounded away, as the sun went
down, at the grim old fortress opposite. Beyond the i:)oint
is St. Augustine Inlet, La Riviere des Dauphines as the
ST. AUGUSTINE— MAP OF HARBOR AND BEACHES.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 155
French Huguenot Laudonniere named it before the Span-
iards set foot on its shores. Beyond this again is North
Beach and the Toloniato Eiver. To the right Matanzas
Eiver and the shores of Anastasia Island disappear in the
distance.
Turning westward toward the Plaza we face the pretty
stretch of greensward with its shade trees. Almost opposite,
in the foreground, is the "Old Slave Market," popularly so
called, though in reality the original structure was a provis-
ion market, built in 1840, and used as such until the city
outgrew its accommodations. The roof and woodwork were
burned in 1887, but the structure was subsequently rebuilt
and serves mainly as a lounging-place. Originally the square
was probably designed as a parade-ground, and as such it
was certainly used by the British and by the United States
troops during the Civil War.
The white coquina monument surmounted by a cannon-
ball commemorates the adoption by the Spanish Cortez in
1812 of a new constitution, whence the Plaza takes its of-
ficial name. The monument was erected in 1813. The in-
scription translated reads as follows :
" Plaza of the Constitution jDromulgated in the city of St.
Augustine, in East Florida, on the 17th day of October, in
the year 1812; the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindalem,
Knight of the Order of Santiago, being Governor. For eter-
nal remembrance the Constitutional City Council erected
this monument, under the superintendence of Don Fernando
de la Maza Arredondo, the young municipal officer, oldest
member of the corporation, and Don Francisco Robira, At-
torney and Eecorder. In the year 1813."
In 1814 Ferdinand VII. was recalled to the Spanish throne,
and straightway repudiating his pledge to support the
new " constitucion " ordered all the commemorative mon-
uments that had been erected to be torn down. Alone, it is
believed, the far-away province of Florida neglected to obey
the royal behest. The tablets were removed as a salve to
loyal consciences, but in 1818 they were replaced and so the
monument fortunately survives as a curious memento of the
past.
156 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
The other monument tinder the trees on the north side of
the Plaza commemorates the Confederate dead of St. Augu.s-
tine. One face bears tliis inscription : " Our Dead. Erected
by the Ladies' Memorial Association of St. Augustine, Fla.,
A.D. 1872." The second : "In Memoriam. Our loved ones
who gave their lives in the service of the Confederate States."
On the third face : " They died far from the Lome that gave
them birth." And the fourth : " They have crossed the river
and rest under the shade of the trees." The shaft is of co-
quiua.
The Plaza has always been, and is still the scene of public
meetings. Here the men-at-arms gathered when the alarm
gnn was fired in the old days of the French, English, and
American Wars. Here in 1776 the royalists burned Adams
and Hancock in effigy, when the news, a fortnight or more
old, came from distant Philadelphia that the Declaration of
Indejjendence had been signed. Here the Florida Vol-
unteers fell in on a January morning of 1861 and marched to
take possession of Fort Marion, and thence subsequently
they marched away to four years of fratricidal war and final
defeat. And here, finally, after peace was restored, the Dec-
laration of Independence was read before a mass meeting of
approving citizens. On the right, or north side of the Plaza
is St. Joseph's Cathedral, built under Spanish rule and
finished in 1701. It was burned in 1887, and immediately
rebuilt, enlarged, and most tastefully improved by Messrs.
Carriere & Hastings, architects. Thus the cathedral could
not, even had it escaped the flames, have claimed a remote
antiquity, even in the American acceptation of the term. Its
predecessor, however, dated back to 1682 or thereabout, one
of the old bells, still preserved, bearing that date and the
legen d Sancte — Joseph — Ora — Pro — Nobis.
On the left is the modest spire of Trinity Church, episco-
palian, and beyond are the post-office, and the towers of the
great Ponce de Leon and Cordova hotels. To the north and
south at either hand stretches the sea-wall, terminated at the
south by the United States Barracks and at the north by
Fort Marion.
The Sea- Wall. Some protection against the inroads of the
sTIKE.
. San Marco Hotel
. Warden's.
. Cemetery.
, Fori Marion.
. Gateway.
. Museum.
, Methodist Church.
, Magnolia Hotel.
, Opera House.
, Hernandez Hotel
. Florida House.
, Bath House.
, Court House.
. Yacht Club.
. Bank.
. Cathedral.
Bishop Moore's.
Studios.
Hotel Ponce de Leon.
Alcazar.
Hotel Cordova.
Post Office.
Old Market.
Plaza.
Plaza Basin.
Plaza Hotel
School.
Episcopal Church.
Lyon Block.
Villa Zorayda.
Presbyterian Church.
Barracks Basin.
Parade.
Barracks.
Military Cemetery.
Water Park.
New Presbyterian Church.
HAP OF ST. AUGUSTIME.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 157
ocean became necessary as soon as St. Augnstine began to
consider itself a permanent place of abode. Easterly storms
with their accompanying high tides often drove the water up
into the streets, and even now the spray at times flies over
the stone coping. The first wall was begun in 1690, under
the administration of Diego de Quiroza y Dosada, who was
Governor at the time. It extended from the Fort to the
Plaza and its remains are not far beneath the present sur-
face of the street. Its location and extent are shown on
a map of the town made during British occupancy. It is of
record that the Spanish , soldiers voluntarily contributed
labor and money to aid in its construction. The present
wall was begun in 1835 by the United States Government,
and was finished in 1842. It is three-quarters of a mile long,
built of coquiua, with a coping of granite three feet wide.
Tlie wall itself is ten feet above low-w'ater mark. The cost
was about .$100,000. There are two breaks in the wall, af-
fording access to the water's edge, one opposite the Plaza,
and the other near the barracks. These breaks are protected
by out-walls and the basins are used for loading and un-
loading fish, fruit, and the other products of sea and shore.
The Minorcans. In the early part of the present century
the population of the city was largely made u^j of natives of
the Balearic Isles, Minorca and Majorca, lying in the western
Mediterranean, ofi" the coast of Spain. These jseople were
brought over by Dr. Andrew TurnbuU (see Route 63), in
1790, with a view to establishing a colony at New Smyrna, but
they revolted against the rule of his agents, and most of them
came to St. Augustine, where, for a generation they formed
a distinct class of the population. A few of their descend-
ants remain, distinguished by dark ej-es, hair, and com-
j^lexion, but for the most jDart they have intermarried with
Americans, and race characteristics have been largely modi-
fied, or have disappeared altogether.
Fort Marion. Any of the streets running north — parallel
to the sea-wall, that is — lead to this ancient fortress, the most
important and interesting of the Spanish relics.
On or near this site Menendez constructed a wooden fort
168 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
in 1565, and named it St. John of the Pines (San Jnan de
Pinos). It was, according to the most trustworthy accounts,
octagonal in form, and mounted fourteen brass cannon. It
was this fort that Sir Francis Drake destroyed in 1586, the
garrison having fled with but a faint show of resistance.
By this time the Spaniards had discovered the valuable
properties of coquina for building pui-jooses, and their sub-
sequent works were of the more durable and less combustible
material. Little is known of the structure that was threat-
ened by Davis, the English buccaneer, in 1665, but its walls
were at that time well advanced, having been pushed forward
by the labor of Indian captives and convicts from Spain and
Mexico. We have the testimony of Jonathan Dickinson, a
Philadelphia Quaker, who was here in 1695, that the walls
were thirty feet high at that time. Seven years later (1702)
they were certainly far enough completed to defy Governor
Moore, of South Carolina, and in 1740 Governor Oglethorpe,
of Georgia, hammered away at them for more than a month
without producing any j^erceptible impression.
The Spaniards named the fort San Marco, the English
changed the name to St. John, and on retrocession to Sjiain
in 1783, San Marco was once more recognized. On the ac-
cession of the United States the saints were laid aside, and
the name of the patriot soldier of South Carolina was
adopted by the War Department.
The fort is planned in accordance with the Vaubau system
of fortification, which, x\p to the beginning of the present
century was considered the best. A plan of the work, with
its outlying defences and the modern water batteries, is ap-
pended.
Approaching from the direction of the town the visitor as-
cends a path leading up what was formerly the exterior
slope of the glacis. The mass of masonry on the left,
pierced for cannon and musketry, is the barbican, an outwork
intended for the protection of the weakest point in the main
work, namely, the entrance. An extension of the moat in-
cludes the barbican, and both moats are now crossed by
rough plank platforms, where once were regi;lar drawbridges.
On the left, after passing the angle of the barbican, is a niche
MOAT
PLAN OF FORT MARION.
1. Bridge from glacis to barbican. 2. Stairway to barbican parapet. 3.
Bridge. 4. Sally-port. 5. Arched passage. 6. Bakery. 7, 8. Store-rooms.
9, 10. Store-rooms. 11. Bomb-proof. 12. Chapel. 13. Store-room. 14. Treas-
ure room. 15. Casemate from which Coacoochee and Osceola escaped. 16,
17. Dark vaults. 18. Guard-room. 19. Incliue to parapet. B, B, B, B. Bast-
ions, each with a protected watch-tower, W, in the salient angle. The spaces
left blank are ventilated casemates designed for quarters and ±e like.
1()0 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
opening into a .stairway, and containing, carved in stone,
the royal arms of Spain, which, in a sadly dilapidated con-
dition, barely survive the rough handling to which they have
been subjected by the elements all the time, and by witless
vandals at intervals, until protected by an iron grating.
Turning to the right, another rude structure of planks
crosses tlie wide moat and leads to the entrance. Above this
again are the arms of Spain with an almost obliterated in-
scrii^tion which, restored and translated, reads as follows :
EEYNANDO EN ESP ANA EL 8EN^
DON FERNANDO SEXTO Y SIENDO
GOV"'' Y CAP^ DE ES^ C S^" AUG^ DE
LA FLORIDA Y SUS PROV^ EL MARESCAL
DE CAMPO D ALONZO FERN^° HEREDIA
ASI CONCLUIO ESTE CASTLLO EL AN.
OD 1756 DIRIGIENDO LAS OBR.
CAP INGN'^"^ DN PEDRO DE BROZAS Y GAEAY.
"Don Ferdinand YI., being King of Spain, and tlie Field
Marshal Don Alonzo Fernando Hereda, being Governor and
Captain-General of this i3lace, St. Augustine, of Florida, and
its jirovince. This fort was finished in the year 1756. The
works were directed by the Captain-Engineer Don Pedro de
Brazos of Garay."
This door is provided with a heavy portculHs, which still
remains in jjosition, though hardly in working order. The
door or sally-port is barely wide enough for four men to
march abreast, Within is a wide arched passage leading to
the open parade inside the walls. On either side of the
passage are doors leading to the vaulted chambers or case-
mates that surround the parade on all sides, and served in
their time as quarters for the garrison, as cells for jsrisoners,
including American rebels during the revolution, and Indian
captives in more recent times.
The sergeant in charge of the fort conducts visitors through
the casemates. As this is not part of his regular duty, a fee
(25c. for each person, or one dollar for a party of several) is
ctistomarv.
SAIXT AUGUSTINE. 161
On the left of the entrance passage is the guavd-room and
on the right is the bakery, through which access is had to
two dark vaults, used, no doubt, for storage.
The terrepleiu, or parade, is 103 by 109 feet, and a broad
stairway, formerly an inclined plane for the easier handling
of gun-carriages and the like, leads to the parapet. Directly
opposite the entrance is the chapel, -without which no Span-
ish fort of that period was complete ; in it are still visible
the stations of shrine and altar, and other evidences of the
decoration customary in such places. It was used for re-
ligious services as late as 1860 or thereabout, and was turned
into a schoolroom for the Western Indians who were con-
fined here in 1875-78. The portico of the chapel was orig-
inally quite an elaborate bit of decorative architecture, but
it has long since disappeared.
In 1882 a party of French astronomers had the use of the
fort as a station to observe the transit of Venus, and a tablet
near the chapel-door commemorates their visit. It bears
this inscription : " Plaque commemorative du passage de
Venus, observe au Fort Marion le 9 Decembre 1882, par MM.
le Colonel Perrier, le Commandant Bassat, le Capitaine
Deffoges de I'armee Francaise."
The casemates are in the main alike, dark vaults, some of
them lofty, others divided into two stories, some dimly
lighted through narrow slits high up near the ceiling, others
totally dark save for the entrance-doors.
That captives, red and white, pagan and Christian, have
pined away their lives in more than one of these dungeons
is extremely probable when it is remembered that not so very
long ago the rack and the stake were instruments of nomi-
nally Christian offices, but no records remain, and the imagi-
nation may have full play as regards most of the casemates.
Two of them, however, have authentic histories. In the
one marked 15, near the southwest bastion, Coacoochee
and Osceola, two of the most celebrated Seminole chiefs,
were confined during the war that lasted from 1835 till 1842.
After the final subjugation of the tribe Coacoochee gave the
following account of their escape :
" We had been growing sickly from day to day and so re-
162 SAINT AUGU8T1NE.
solved to make our escape or die in the attempt. We were
in a room eighteen or twenty feet square. All the light ad-
mitted was through a hole about eighteen feet from the
floor. Through this we must effect our escape, or remain
and die with sickness. A sentinel was constantly posted at
the door. As we looked at it from our beds, we thought it
small, but believed tliat, could we get our heads through we
should have no further nor serious difficulty. To reacli the
hole was the first object. In order to effect this we from
time to time cut up the forage-bags allowed us to sleep on,
and made them into ropes. The hole I could not reach
when upon the shoulder of my companion ; but while stand-
ing upon his shoulder, I worked a knife into a crevice of
the stonework, as far up as I could reach, and upon this I
raised myself to the opening, when I found that, with some
reduction of person, I could get through. In order to re-
duce ourselves as much as possible we took medicine five
days. Under the pretext of being very sick, we were per-
mitted to obtain the roots we required. For some weeks we
watched the moon, in order that the night of our attempt it
should be as dark as possible. At the proper time we com-
menced the medicine, calculating on the entire disappear-
ance of the moon. The keeper of this prison, on the night
determined upon to make the effort, annoyed us by fre-
quently coming into the room, and talking and singing. At
first we thought of tying him and putting his liead in a bag,
so that, should he call for assistance, he could not be heard.
We first, however, tried the experiment of pretending to be
asleej), and when he returned to pay no regard to him. This
accomplished our object. He came in, and went immedi-
ately out ; and we could hear him snore in the immediate
vicinity of the door. I then took the rope, which we had
secreted under our bed, and mounting ujjon the shoulder of
my comrade, raised myself by the knife worked into the
crevices of the stone, and succeeded in reaching the embras-
ure. Here I made fast the rope that my friend might fol-
low me. I then passed through the hole a sufficient length
of it to reacli the ground upon the outside (about twenty-
five feet) in the ditch. I had calculated the distance when
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 163
going for roots. "With much diificulty I siacceeded iu get-
ting my head through ; for the sharp stones took the skin
off my breast and back. Putting my head through first I
was obliged to go down head foremost, until my feet were
througli, fearing every moment the rope would break. At
last, safely on the ground, I awaited with anxiety the arrival
of my comrade. I had passed another rope through the
hole, which, in the event of discovery, Talmus Hadjo
(Osceola), was to pull, as a signal to me from the outside,
that he was discovered, and could not come. As soon as I
struck the ground, I took hold of the signal for intelligence
from my friend. The niglit was very dark. Two men
passed near me, talking earnestly, and I could see them dis-
tinctly. Soon I heard the struggle of my companion far
above me. He had succeeded in getting his head through,
but his body would come no farther. In the lowest tone of
voice, I urged him to throw out his breath, and then try ;
soon after he came tumbling down the whole distance. For
a few moments I thought him dead. I dragged him to some
water close by, which restored him, but his leg was so lame
he was unable to walk. I took him upon my shoulder to a
scrub, near the town. Daylight was just breaking, it was
evident we must move rapidly. I caught a mule in the ad-
joining field, and making a bridle out of my sash, mounted
my comj^anion, and started for the St. John's River. The
mule was used one day, but fearing the whites would track
us, we felt more secure on foot in the hammock, though
moving very slow. Thus we continued our journey five
days, subsisting on roots and berries, when I joined my band,
then assembled on the headwaters of the Tomoka Eiver,
near the Atlantic coast."
Osceola was subsequently recaptured and sent to Fort
Moultrie, Charleston, S. C, where he died.
During the years 1875-78 the fort was again used as a
prison for Indians brought from the far West. Their cap-
tivity was nominal during good behavior, and some attempts
were made to educate them.
AVithin the northeastern bastion is a chamber known as
" the dungeon," though there is good reason for believing
1(;4 SAINT AU(;U.ST1NE.
that it was originally intended as a magazine. In 1839 the
masonry in one of the adjacent vaults caved in, and, while
repairs were in progress, it was discovered that there was
still another innermost chamber, whose existence had not
before been suspected. The wall was broken through, and,
among other refuse, some bones were found so far gone in
decomposition that the post surgeon could not determine
whether they were human or not. The mmor spread, how-
ever, that an entire skeleton had been found chained to the
wall, and that implements were scattered about suggestive of
the " Holy Inquisition " and a chamber of hoiTors. The tale
grew by repetition and for many years it was generally be-
lieved that the dungeon had once been the scene of a tragedy.
The author of the "Standard Guide to St. Augustine," how-
ever, cites the statement of an old resident of the city, who
w-as employed at the fort when a boy, and remembers the old
disused magazine in the northeast bastion. According to this
account, during the later days of Spanish occupancy the mag-
azine fell out of repair, and became a receptacle for refuse of
all sorts, until finally it was walled up, being regarded as a
menace to health. There are still those who insist that the
tragic accounts of the " dungeon " are the true ones, but
the weight of evidence seems to be in favor of the more pro-
saic version.
Ascending to the parapet, the commanding position of the
fort is apparent, and the outlook in all directions is very in-
teresting. With the aid of the map on page 159 all the
noteworthy points of interest can be traced, and many of the
historic localities identified.
In the salient angle of each bastion is a sentry-box of
stone, where a man-at-arms might be tolerably secure against
Indian arrows, or even against the firearms of the last
century ; on the northeastern bastion, the most exposed of
the four, the sentiy-box has a supplementary story or watch-
tower, whence a still wider outlook may be obtained.
To the non-military visitor, who knows not the uses of bas-
tions, their purpose will at once become e%-ident on looking
over the parapet. Soldiers posted in these projecting angles
can, it is easily seen, deliver a direct fire sweeping the entire
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 165
moat to autl bevoud the salient of the opposite bastion.
Bastioued works reached their complete development under
the system of Vauban, one of whose disciples, Captain
Pedro de Brozas y Garay, was the engineer in charge of the
construction of the fort.
It is not likely that, even in case of a foreign war, guns
will ever again be mounted en barbette on Fort Marion. Even
if the coquina masonry could sustain the weight of modern
ordnance, it could not long withstand the impact of modern
projectiles. For this reason the water-battery along the sea-
face was built in 1842, but the gun-platforms were never
finished, and the whole work is long out of date. The guns
that lie rusting along the glacis mostly antedate the Civil
War, and are worthless save as old iron.
The floor of the moat was originally of cement, but it is
covered deep with sand and soil. When the old fort was in
fighting trim this moat could be flooded at high tide. A
stairway near the barbican permits easy descent into the
moat for those who do not choose to jump or climb down
from the crest of the counterscarp. From this level a better
idea of the height of the walls is obtained, and one can
readily understand how Osceola was eflfecfcually disabled by
his fall from the narrow opening through which he and
Coacoochee squeezed themselves in the western face of the
fort.
Along the eastern or sea front numerous scars and in-
dentations may be seen in the masonry, some of which were
made by British guns during Oglethorpe's siege iu 1740.
These respectable old wounds will readily be distinguished
from the ones that have been inflicted by modern riflemen,
who have at times used the moat as a shooting-gallery. The
use of all firearms within the fort is now very properly pro-
hibited.
The small brick building in the eastern moat is a furnace
to heat shot for the water battery. It was built iu 1844.
St. Francis Barracks are named from the old Franciscan
convent, whose site they occupy. They stand at the south-
ern end of Bay Street. In front, facing the water, are the
officers' quarters, with barracks for enlisted men in the rear.
166 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
Usually two compauios of regulars are in garrison at this
post. The jiarado in front of the barracks is flanked on the
south by the adjutant's offices and ordnance sheds, and the
open space is used as a drill-ground and for the usual
routine jjarades and insijections of the small garrison.
The old convent was abandoned for i-eligious purposes
when the British took possession in 1763, and was used as
bairacks when the Spaniards returned twenty years after-
ward. Although the buildings have been largely remodelled
and rebuilt, some of the old coquina convent walls are still
standing, and are believed to be among the oldest structures
in the city. It is singular that the memory of St. Fi-ancis
should be perpetuated at one end of the city, while that of
St. Mark was obliterated at the other end when the United
States took possession, but such are the inconsistencies of
history.
The convent in its time was the headquarters of missionary
life in Florida. Thence the devoted priests went out and
built their little chaj^els from the everglades to the Suwan-
nee, and thither, if at all, they returned, often broken down
with the labors and perils of their voluntary exile.
A few steps beyond the officers' quarters is the military
cemetery, kept in beautiful order by the garrison, and worthy
of a visit for its associations. Here, under three low pyra-
mids of masonry, lie many of the soldiers who perished in
the Seminole War. Near by is a shaft to the memory of
Major Dade and his command, almost the first victims of the
long and bloody war that followed.
The inscription reads : " Sacred to the memory of the Of-
ficers and Soldiers killed in battle and died on service dur-
ing the Florida War. This monument has been erected in
token of respectful and affectionate remembrance by their
comrades of all grades, and is committed to the care and
preservation of the garrison of St. Augustine."
Museums. CJiKpin's Musentn, near Fort Marion, contains
the most considerable collection of relics, Spanish and In-
dian arms, armor and implements, and natural curiosities in
the State. The preserved specimens of birds, beasts, fishes,
and reptiles are numerous.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 167
Vender's Museum, on Bay Street, a short distance north of
the Plaza, adds to a miscellaneous collection of cnrios many
living birds, animals, and reptiles. The snake-room is es-
pecially worthy of a visit, and the building in which the
collection is kept is part of the old Spanish prison, and some
of the time-worn interior fittings are still visible.
The St. August ine Institute of Natural Science has its col-
lection in No. 33 Alcazar Court ; hours 2 to 5 p.m. ; admis-
sion free.
The Villa Zorayda. This building faces the Alameda
near the great hotels. It was the first specimen of mono-
lithic architecture in the city, and was in this sense the
pioneer of modern St. Augustine. The credit is due to Mr.
Franklin W. Smith, of Boston, who made the first experi-
ments, forming a concrete with fine shells, Portland cement,
and sand. "While in a semi-liquid condition, the mixture is
poured into moulds made of boards, where it quickly hardens.
By setting up the moulds where the walls of the intended
building are to stand, the whole structure can be solidly
built up by pouring in successive layers of concrete. When
finished in its natural tint, the wall presents a slightly rough
surface, cool gray in color, and of a substance that has thus
far ijerfectly endured the test of exposure. While in the
semi-liquid state the cement readily takes any desired color,
and may thus be adajoted to nearly all the requirements of
decorative architecture.
The Villa Zorayda was also the first modern building to
be erected after the Moorish order. Over the entrance is an
Arabic inscription, signifying "There is no Conqueror but
God " — the motto of Mohammed Aben Alahmas, founder of
the Alhambra. The interior has the traditional open court
with double galleries, and all is decorated in the Moorish
style, many of the motives having been derived from the
Alhambra itself, and from other famous buildings of similar
design.
The Alameda Hotels. It is not the province of a general
guide-book to make distinctions in the matter of hotels, but
the Alameda grouj^ is so remarkable that it seems no more
than right that an exception should be made. The Alameda
168 SAIXT AUGUSTINK.
itself is an open Plaza with asphalt drives, footways, foun-
tains, and parterres of tropical plants. On the north side is
the Ponce de Leon, on the south the Alcazar, on the east the
Cordova, and on the west the Villa Zorayda. The present
appearance of this Plaza is due to the foresight of Mr. Henry
M. Flagler and to his choice of architects, Messrs. Carrere
& Hastings, of New York — neither could have achieved the
present result without the other.
The architecture of the Ponce de Leon is Spanish — not
Moorish, as is sometimes erroneously said. It represents the
best school of Spanish art, and instead of being a copy of any
existing examples is the result of conscientious study of
l^rinciples that have made famous the cathedrals, universi-
ties, and palaces of classic Spain.
The Ponce de Leon faces 380 feet on the Alameda, and
520 feet on Cordova and Seville Streets. The main building
with its accessory portico surrounds a court 150 feet square,
with a central fountain and carefully tended beds of flowers.
On three sides of the court rise the arched galleries, quaint
windows, and red-tiled roofs of the main building, while
across the fourth side, that toward the Alameda, stretches
a roofed portico, which is in fact a continuation of the main
lower galleries. Above all this rises the central dome, and
above this again lofty square towers with pointed tinial
roofs, shaded balconies, and admirable decoi'ative devices in
iron and terra cotta.
To describe the vast establishment in detail is impracti-
cable, but a few words are called for regarding the rotunda
and the dining-hall. Just within the front or main door-
way are the spacious vestibule and rotunda, opening a fine
perspective of columns, caryatides and rich decoration, lead-
ing by a short flight of steps into the diuing-hall beyond.
The pavement of the rotunda and its adjacent corridors is a
marble mosaic, small fiagments set in cement and arranged
in tasteful patterns. The wainscot is of Numidiau marble.
The central dome or rotunda rises in four interior galler-
ies, with arcades agreeably varied in the successive stories.
The whole is supported by four piers and eight columns of
solid oak, carved in caryatid figures of remarkable grace and
SAIN'T AUGUSTINE. 16'.'
beauty. These are arranged in groups of fours, standing
back to back, and admirably posed to convey at once an idea
of strength and lightness.
The decorative standing figures painted on the interspaces
of the second story are typical of Adventure, Discovery, Con-
quest, and Civilization. The seated figures represent Earth,
Air, Fire, and Water. Adventure wears an eagle-crested hel-
met with a cuirass, and holds a drawn sword, while behind
her a sheaf of arrows radiate to form a background. Dis-
covery holds a globe in her right hand and rests her left
upon a tiller, her sea-blue robe contrasting with sails and
cordage. Conquest is in full panoply of mail with helmet
and red draperies, and the gleam of poniards in the back-
ground. Civilization is clad in white, with an open book
and the symbols of Christianity as accessories. Of the seat-
ed figures Earth is in a russet robe with fruits and flowers
and peacocks of gorgeous jDlumage, while, by way of con-
trast, Air holds two eagles in leash and with translucent
draperies of pale blue seems the incarnation of airiness and
light. Fire, auburn-haired and clothed in red, stands amid
tongues of flame grasping a blazing torch, with fire-endur-
ing salamanders in arabesques around her. Water stands
uiaon a shell to which are harnessed sea-horses. Her robes
are pale green and white, and all the accessories are sugges-
tive of the sea and its mystery.
The decoration of the upper stories is less conspicuous
until the dome is reached, where Cuj^ids join hands around
the lower rim, and the highest vault is beautifully modelled
in delicate patterns of white and gold, with armor and sails,
and eagles soaring above all.
A massive yet graceful archway of red Verona marble, with
spandrel patterns in variegated mosaics, leads to the great
dining-hall, a room so well proportioned that its noble
dimensions are at first hardly suspected, and so bold in de-
sign and rich in decoration that, though finished in 1887, it
is already famous among students of architectui-e. The ex-
treme dimensions are 90 by 150 feet, with seats for 800 guests.
The central section of the hall is .square, with an arched or
semi-cylindrical ceiling — technically an elliptical barrel-
170 SAINT AUGUSTINK.
vault. At the sides this arch is suiJi^orted by rows of oak
columns, and beyond the columns are spacious alcoves, form-
ing a jjart of the grand hall and yet sufficiently separated
from it to prevent the sense of too great space, so often a
characteristic of large dining-rooms. The ceilings of the
alcoves are comparatively low, and each is bounded at tlie
wings by great bay windows through which tlie daylight
streams in subdued radiance, and which at night ]-eflect
gleams of blue and gold from the electric globes overhead.
The decorations of the central arch will command the at-
tention of every appreciative visitor. In the spandrels of
the side arclies are the four seasons, duplicated though not
repeated. Spring on one side is sowing grain, on the other
she holds early flowers and opening buds. Summer on the
right is in the shade of trees, on the left the grain and
sickle suggest industry. One Autunm personates the
vintage, the other the harvest, and Winter appears in the
double role of a woodcutter and a master of festivities.
In the semicircular spaces over the musicians' galleries are
Spanish ships in all the glory of gala attire, and in quaint
letters on wall and ceiling are Spanish proverbs, suggestive
mainly of good cheer (see below).
On the ceilings of the alcoves the history of Florida is most
ingeniously worked out in a series of what may perhaps be
termed conventionalized Indian hieroglyphics. Here may
be found the triumphant caravels of Ponce de Leon, the
wrecked vessels of Narvaez, the fleur-de-lis of Huguenot
France, the lion of Spain, the rude fort of the early settle-
ment, the cross of St. George, the naval bombardments, the
sieges, and finally the American national emblems closing
the record with the year 1821.
A happier conception than this picture-written history of
Florida it were hard indeed to find, and the skill and in-
genuity with which it has been realized are deserving of the
highest praise. With the aid of the summaries given else-
where almost every event of considerable importance may be
found represented in the beautiful tracery of these alcoves.
Inscriptions, Mottoes, Etc. — The various inscriptions in
Latin and Spanish are interesting, and often perplexing to
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 171
vfsitox's. Many of the shields bear simply the uames of cities
and provinces of Spain, and need no translation.
In the court-yard, near the west entrance, is a terra cotta
shield with this inscription : Con lo que Sagno sang Do-
31INGO ADOLECE — What is one man's meat is another man's
jjoison (literally, " What keeps Sagno well makes Domingo
sick").
At the eastern entrance : Oveja qve b.vla bocado pierde —
The sheep that bleats misses a bite. On the escutcheons at
right and left of the entrance from court to rotunda : No se
HACEN TORTILLAS SIN KOMPER HUEVos — You Can't make om-
elettes without breaking eggs ; Qcien quando puede no
QUIERE, QUANDO QUIERE NO PUEDE — He that will UOt wllCU he
may, may not when he will.
BiEN Venido — Welcome, is the legend that greets the
visitor who enters from the drive-way.
On the first landing of the steps leading from rotunda to
dining-room is the concluding verse of William Shenstone's
ode " Written at an Inn at Henley," probably about 1710 :
Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round,
Where'er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome at an inn.
Over the main entrance to the dining-room is a shield in-
scribed : Justicia hechobes contra Alava Mal — Alava dooms
those who strive against liei'.
In the dining-room on the west side of the central arch
are four Si^anish proverbs : A>nGO viejo tocino y vino
anejo — An old friend is both meat and drink ; Quien primero
LLEGA esela calza — First come first served ; De la mano a la
BOCA SE pierde LA soPA — There's many a slip 'twixt the ciijj
and the lip (literally, " Between the hand and the mouth
the soup is lost ") ; El buen \t;no no ha sienester pregonero
— Good wine needs no bush.
On the east side of the arch are these : Oveja que bala
BOCADO pierde — The sheep that bleats misses a bite ; Re-
MUDA DE PASTURAGE RACE BizzEROs C0RD03 — Change of feed
172 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
makes fat cattle ; Quien mlcho abraza poco aprieta — He
who gias^js much, keeps but little ; Quien mas sabe, mas
CALLA — Who knows most says least.
In the west alcove, over and above the arches, near the
bay windows, are shields, inscribed for the most part with
the arms, names, and mottoes of Spanish cities. Here and
there are legends as : Cadiz — Hercules dominator fundator,
in recognition of the Phoenician Hercules, as the fabled
founder and ruler of the ancient town. Soria cabeza l>e
ESSORiA PURA REMADURA, a punning motto of the town and
l^rovince of Soria.
On the semicircular ceiling of the west alcove are four
signs of the zodiac — Scorpio, Saggitarius, Leo, Virgo, and
many of the famous names identified with the early history
of Florida.
The corresponding spaces in the eastern alcove bear the
four signs, Pisces, Aquarius, Taurus, Gemini, with historical
names and dates ingeniously repeated in varied form, with
names and arms of cities, including that of Huelva, a mari-
time city in Spain, in Latin : Huelva, et terr^ custodia
PORTUS maris — Huelva, entrance of the sea and guardian of
the land.
The frescoes and mural decorations are by Messrs. Thomas
Hastings, George W. Maynard, and H. T. Schladermundt.
The whole building is in keeping with the magnificence
of which a brief and inadequate description has been at-
tempted regarding two of the princij^al divisions, but no de-
tailed general account can here be given. The visitor should
not fail to visit the tower and roof terraces, and permits can
be obtained at the office to inspect the kitchens, laundries,
and other domestic departments.
Facing the Ponce de Leon, on the opposite side of the Ala-
meda, is the Alcazar, an adjunct of the main hotel, the work
of the same architects, and like it in the Spanish renaissance
style. The name is from the Al-Kasr (House of Cpesar), but
the design is original and wholly unlike that of the famous
Palace of Seville. The general plan embraces an interior
court with a garden and fountains, surrounded by open ar-
cades, sho^js, and offices, and a large restaurant. Bev'-:^^!
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 173
are magnificent swimming-baths of water drawn from an ar-
tesian well, aerated to free it from the odor of sulphur, and
turned at once into the bath, where it falls in a sheet of
beautifully clear greenish water, exactly at the right tem-
perature for swimming.
Beyond the bath are courts for tennis and croquet, where
there are yearly matches and toui'naments of interest to all
lovers of these games.
The lodging-rooms in the Alcazar are all provided with
private baths, and are charged at a fixed rate, on what is
termed in America the " European plan." An excellent res-
taurant is connected with the establishment, but guests are
free to go where they please for meals. The Alcazar is open
throughout the year.
The Hotel Cordova (formerly known as the Casa Monica)
was the first of the Alameda group. Like its neighbors, it
is monolithic, but its style of architecture differs from theirs
in that it is suggestive of the arts of war rather than of
peace. Its architect is Mr. F. W. Smith, of Boston, to whom
is due the credit of having made the first experiments in the
composition of coquina concrete. The motives for the
heavy battlemented walls and towers are found in the castles
of Moorish Spain. The northern entrance is an adaptation
of the Puerto del Sol of Toledo, and the balconies are after
those said to have originated in Seville, and known as
" kneeling balconies." They are said to have been designed
by Michael Angelo, for the convenience of devotees, who
desired to kneel during the passage of religious in-ocessions.
The City Gates. All that remains of the ancient defences
of St. Augustine stands at the head of St. George Street ;
two solid, square posts — for they are not high enough to be
termed towers — flanked by a few yards of coquina wall. The
stone sentry-boxes still remain in the interior buttresses.
According to tradition, a guardhouse once stood just within,
and a drawbridge crossed the moat. Only a few yards of wall
now remain flanking the gates, and it is not known how far,
in its best estate, it extended. The most formidable of the
fortifications defended the land approach, and substantial
earthworks once reached from river to river, the exterior
174 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
slojie of tlift parapnfc being covered Avitli a dense growth of
Spanish bayonet, tlirongh which it is well-nigh impossible
to force a passage. Old engravings of the city show it as a
completely walled town, and the visitor may find on some of
the ancient tombstones in the cemetery Latin inscriptions
containing the word oppidiim, which was often used to dis-
tinguish a walled town from one without such defences.
The coquina dwellings of the present town are largely com-
posed of material plundered from still older structures, and
there is no way of determining how many roods of city wall
were taken by builders who cared nothing for Spanish relics.
The i^resent gateway was the princijDal entrance, was
strongly guarded, and rejDeatedly saved the town from the
sudden onslaught of savage or civilized foes.
The Coast. Between the mouth of St. John's River and
St. Augustine Inlet, the coast is an iinbroken sand beach
nearly forty miles long, backed by scrub-covered sand hills
and strewn with the wreckage of centuries. For walking,
riding, driving, or wheeling no highway made by mortal
hands can approach this superb beach during the hours
when the tide is not at its highest. The coast is monotonous,
to be sure, but the sea is ever beautiful in color, and there
are always objects of interest for the lover of nature. Off
shore the water deepens quickly, and mariners, when once
they have cleared the shoals at either inlet, may confidently
run down the beach within half a mile of the breakers. Four-
teen miles south of St. John's Light are the sources of Guano
Fiver, in Diego Plains, a short distance inland from the
beach. This stream flows into Tolomato or North River, a
tributary of St. Augustine Inlet. It follows the beach all
the way at a distance of one-quarter of a mile until it joins
the Tolomato, when the distance is one to two miles. Its
headwaters may be approximately located from the beach
or from a vessel by noting the greater distance of the woods
from the coast.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 175
31. Saint Anastasia,
familiarly called Anastasia Island, is the nakiral breakwater
of St. Augustine. It is nearly fourteen miles long, and at
the widest part, not far from the inlet, is nearly two miles
across. Four miles farther south it narrows to a mere strip
of scrub-covered beach. For the most part the island is
covered with a dense growth, into which few explorers will
wish to penetrate after five or ten minutes of faithful elfort.
With the aid of good dogs or a good guide it is still possible
to find deer on the island, but only in certain places known
to the initiated.
The Spaniards found it necessary at an early date to main-
tain a lookout on the island. At that time nearly all navi-
gators— friends and foes — approached from the southward,
and from the town such sails could not be seen until close
at hand. The first structures were of tall tree-trunks, with
a " crow's-nest " or platform at top. Such an one betrayed
the existence of the town to Sir Francis Drake, in 1586 (see
p. 138). Subsequently a coquina tower was erected, but
still with the original idea of a lookout, or perhaps a com-
bined watch-tower and blockhouse, for the wily Seminole
was not long in discovering lonely vedettes in exposed i^osi-
tions. A gun was mounted there after a time, and flag sig-
nals were made by an established code, whereby the city was
notified of friend or foe. It was not until the United States
came into possession that a regular lighthouse was estab-
lished. The old Spanish tower was rebuilt and utilized for
the purpose, and the lantern was first lighted in 1823. This
tower stood a short distance northeast of the present light,
rnd was originally half a mile from the beach. The sea
;';radually encroached, however, and in June, 1880, a violent
gale undermined the walls, and the ruins still cover the rocky
point south of the railroad station. Here visitors usually
make their first acquaintance with coquina in its natural
form.
The present light tower, officially known as St. Augustine
Light, stands in latitude 29° 53' 7" N., longitude 8V 17'
12" "W. The nearest light to the northward is at the mouth
176 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
of St. John's liiver, 80 miles ; the nearest to the southward
is at Mosquito Inlet, 60 miles. The light is of the first
order, and shows a fixed white light, varied by a white fia.sh
every three minutes. It is visible at sea 19 nautical miles.
The base of the tower is 15 feet above the sea-level, and
the centre of the lantern is 150 feet above the base. The
tower is accessible to visitors at all times, except when some
uniisual duty prevents the keepers from attending. The
view from tlie gallery is the best that can be obtained of the
iulet and the adjacent coasts.
The peculiar painting of the tower in spiral bands is
adopted so that it can be readily distinguished from any
other landmark on the coast — an important feature in light-
house construction, since a momentary sight is often all that
can be obtained in thick weather.
The seaward shore of the island is known as the South
Beach. At the railroad station it is somewhat steeper than
most Florida beaches, but beyond the site of the old light-
house it becomes hard enough for riding and driving.
Tlie coquina quarries are one mile and a half south-
east from the lighthouse. They may be reached by a fairly
good path (twenty-five minutes), either by following the
beach to the rocky jDoint and then striking inland, or by a
path from the lighthouse, or by a path from Quari-y Creek,
which falls into Matanzas River three-quarters of a mile
below the Plaza in St. Augustine. The last-mentioned tri]}
makes a pleasant excursion from the city by boat, including
a walk of about two miles going and returning. The quarries
are interesting as showing the stratifications of the coquina
(Spanish for shell-fish). The small shells are the accu-
mulations of ages. Acted upon by water they become par-
tially dissolved, and then, diying, are firmly cemented to-
gether in a solid mass. The loose shells are found in vast
quantities on some of the neighboring beache.5.
The seaward coast of Anastasia Island offers no obstacles
to navigation after clearing the shoals at either end. The
three fathom curve is but half a mile from the beach, and
shallow boats are in safe depth just outside the breakers.
About three miles north of Matanzas Inlet, and two miles
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 177
oflf shore, the manner is sometimes startled by the sight of
l)reakers under his bow where no danger is indicated on the
chart. One who is familiar with the phenomenon, however,
may calmly steer directly over the apparent obstacle, for there
arc twenty-one fathoms of water in the midst of the breakers,
and nine fathoms all around it. The disturbance is caused
by a boiling spring, such as occur frequently on the main-
land of Florida. When directly over or to leeward of the
breakers the odor of sulphuretted hydrogen may be per-
ceived, suggesting the same source as the artesian wells
common on the main land. The volume of water varies
from time to time, and of course the disturbance at the
surface of the sea is more apparent at low tide than at high
tide. Sometimes it is not visible at all. The exact bearing
of the spring from Matanzas Inlet is N. by E. i E., distant
3i miles. It may be readily found in calm weather with
the aid of a pocket compass.
St. Augustine Inlet is three-eighths of a mile wide. On the
north is North Point, on the south is Black Point, the north-
ern extremity of Anastasia Island. Outside the inlet, shift-
ing shoals make out a mile and a half, and the bar is very
variable. Generally ten feet may be carried through the
South Channel, which is the deeper of the two. Sharpies of
any size can pass in or out at any time of tide, the mean rise
and fall of which is 3 ft. G in. to 4 ft. 9 in., greatly influenced,
however, by the direction of the wind.
The main channel runs close along the outer beach of
Anastasia Island, with a swift current at the ebb and flow of
tide. Inside, the inlet divides into Tolomato and Matanzas
Rivers, the former finding its source, as has been stated, four-
teen miles up the beach. Sail-boats may ascend the Tolo-
mato about eight miles, and row-boats still farther.
Bird Island. To the south of the inlet, half a mile oflf
shore, is Bird Island, a sand bar of recent formation, which
appears to be increasing in extent and height from year to
year. It was formerly a great resort for wild-fowl, but the
free use of modern breech-loading fire-arms has frightened
mo.st of them to less frequented shores. Bird Island is often
visited in fair weather for the sake of the sea-shells that are
178 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
ilirown np iii great variety by every easterly blow. With a
fair wind the run may be made in an hour from Ht. Augustine.
North Beach. Opposite Anastasia Island is North Beach.
The point of laud is two miles (half an hour) from the
Plaza. Launches aud sail-boats make frequent trips, fare
25c. The outer beach is rich in sea-shells, strewn with
wreckage, and offers a tempting surface for walking or riding
as far as the eye can reach. The North Beach Railroad runs
frequent trains from the Union Station, crossing Tolomato
River on a bridge, and landing passengers within a few steps
of the beach.
33. Matanzas River and Inlet,
sejiarating Anastasia Island from the mainland, is thirteen
miles long to Matanzas Inlet, and has an average width of
one-eighth to one-quarter of a mile. There is only three
feet of water at the "divide" at low tide, and six feet is
about the limit of draught that can be taken through at av-
erage high water. The rest of the channel is deep, though
narrow. A pleasant excursion is down this stream to Matan-
zas Inlet and return. It is practically an all-day trip, though,
with a favoring wind or in a launch, the round trip may be
made in five hours with time for a short stop at the inlet.
One mile south of the Plaza is the movith of Quariy Creek
(see p. 154). The portion of Anastasia Island south of this
is known as Fish's Island, though really not separated from
Anastasia. This tract is the old Fish estate. The original
owner, Jesse Fish, came from Flatbush, N. Y., prior to 1763,
during the first Spanish period, and his descendants still
own the place. This estate includes the most valuable part
of the island, and its orange groves were once among the
finest in the State. Mr. Fish made many improvements,
and his jjlantation was celebrated during the period of
British supremacy. The old planter died and was buried on
his own acres, and his tomb is shown almost hidden by sxir-
rounding orange-trees.
Four miles farther south, on the mainland, is Moultrie,
the site of Buena Yista, another famous old plantation, the
8AINT AUGUSTINE. 170
property, in British times, of Lieutenant-Governor John
Moultrie, who was an active loyalist, while his brother, Will-
iam Moultrie, of Charleston, S. C, was so prominent a
rebel that the British brought him to St. Augustine as a pris-
oner. No doubt the brothers had memorable meetings
during the i^eriod of confinement. Buena Vista was fortified
in the early days, and later a regular fort was built, which
was occupied as one of the outposts of St. Augustine.
Here, in 1823, was executed the treaty of Fort Moultrie, be-
tween the Government of the United States and the Semi-
nole Indians. Alleged infractions of this treaty were among
the causes of the Seminole War (1835-42).
Near Matanzas Inlet, on an island, are the picturesque
ruins of an old Spanish fort, of unknown date. Here the
Spaniards first and the English afterward kept a small gar-
rison to prevent the surprise of St. Augustine from this
direction.
On these shores, more than three centuries ago, was
enacted one of the darkest tragedies of Floridian history.
In 1564 a colony of French Huguenots under Bene de
Laudonniere fortified themselves on the St. John's River.
In August of the following year Pedro Menendez d'Aviles
with a strong Spanish force established himself at St. Augus-
tine (see p. 135), having orders from his king to make war
against the French. Almost simultaneously reinforcements
for Laudonuiere had arrived in a French fleet under Jean
Ribaut (see p. 120), who at once assumed the offen.sive.
On September 10th he appeared off St. Augustine with a
powerful armament, but a protracted storm compelled him
to put to sea and the whole squadron was wrecked in the
neighborhood of Canaveral.
Giving thanks to Heaven for this signal interposition,
though he was at the time unaware of the completeness of
the French disaster, Menendez marched to Fort Caroline,
where he surprised and slew most of the garrison (see page
123). Returning at once to St. Augustine he soon heard of
the shipwrecked Frenchmen on the coast to the southward.
Marching to Matanzas Inlet ho bivouacked within sight of
the French camp-fires and awaited the dawn. The ship-
.180 SAINT AUGUSTINE.
"wrecked Frenclimeu, ignorant of the fate of Fort Caroline,
were cautiously making their way thither. Menendez had
but about sixty men with him, while the French numbered
from 140 to 200, authorities differ. A parley followet], and
a party of French officers crossed over in a small boat and
told jNIenendez their story of recent shipwreck and ijresent
starvation, asking for treatment as prisoners of war.
" Are you Catholics ? " asked Menendez.
" We are Lutherans," was the reply, given doubtless with
sinking hearts.
"Gentlemen," said Menendez, "your fort is taken, and
all in it are pxat to the sword." And no assurance of clemency
would he give, save that, if the French surrendered, he
would, to quote his own report, " do with them as the Lord
should order." After further consultation, the French de-
cided that surrender was their only hope, and, having de-
livered up their arms, they were brought over in small
parties. As they landed, each detachment was marched out
of sight behind the sand dunes, where their hands were
securely tied. It was late in the afternoon before the whole
band, disarmed and helpless, stood before their relentless
captor, ready for the march. At this point Mendoza, the
l^riest, i^ut in a plea for the lives of Catholics, and twelve
Breton sailors professing that faith were released, with foiir
artisans of whom the Sjianiards were in great need. These
were sent to St. Augustine by boat, while the rest, with
gloomy i:)remonitions of their fate, and guarded by the Span-
ish men-at-arms, followed Menendez, who, with a cane in his
hand, walked in advance. As the sun sank he halted in a se-
cluded sjaot among the sand dunes, and drew a line on the
ground with his cane. Darkness was falling when the
prisoners came up, and, again to cite the words of Menendez'
Cciria, " I had their hands tied behind their backs, and
themselves put to the sword. It appeared to me that, by
thus chastising them, God our Lord and your Majesty were
served ; whereby in future this evil sect will leave us more
free to plant the gospel in these parts."
The precise locality of this savage deed has never been
known, and onlv bv accident can it be discovered.
SAINT AUGtrfTIXE. 181
But Menendez had not yet finished liis work. He sus-
pected that other ships had beeu wrecked farther down the
coast, and wliile their crews were at large he could not feel
secure, since his own forces were scattered, some at sea,
some at Fort Caroline, and only about one hundred and fifty
men at hand for service.
The next day Indians brought news of another detachment
of Frenchmen at Matanzas, and midnight found the fierce
Spaniards again awaiting their prey.
At daybreak Eibaut and his men — for the commander-in-
chief was with this detachment — were seen making prepara-
tions to cross the river on a raft. On discovering the Span-
iards the French drums beat and the trumpets sounded, but
Menendez told his men to cook their breakfast uncon-
cernedly. After some preliminaries Eibaut, with eight
gentlemen, crossed over in a canoe and were courteously re-
ceived by Menendez, who refreshed them with food and
wine. Then he led the French commander to where the
bodies of his late comrades lay among the sand hills. Nego-
tiations followed, lasting until the next day, and Eibaut was
led to believe that he had effected an arrangement whereby
the lives of himself and his men should be spared. The
French, however, some three hundred and fifty in number,
were not all of a like mind, and in the end only one hundred
and fifty surrendered. The remaining two hundred marched
southward, preferring to face the wilderness rather than
trust the Spaniard. In the morning Eibaut reported the
result, and the canoe began its long task of ferrying over the
prisoners.
Before the first boat load arrived, however, Eibaut was led
behind a sand hill and his hands were tied! The act re-
vealed the intention of the Spaniard. At length all were
brought over^70 says Menendez, 150 says Solis.
Then came the cmcial question, " Are you Catholics or
Lutherans ? and is there anyone among you who will go to
confession ? "
"I and all here are of the Eeformed Faith," answered
Eibaut, and then he recited a Psalm. "We are of earth,"
he continued, according to the Spanish narrator (Solis)^
182 SAINT AUGUSTINR
"and to earth we must return ; twenty years more or less
can matter little." Then turning to Menendez he said he
Avas ready, and the scene of two days before was repeated on
a larger scale.
" I saved the lives," says Menendez in his Carta, " of two
young gentlemen aboxxt eighteen years of age, as well as of
three others, the fifer (see p. 139), the drammer, and the trum-
peter, and I caused Jean Ribaut with all the rest to be put to
the sword, judging this to be expedient for the service of God
our Lord and of your Majesty." The foregoing account of
these massacres is from the Spanish authorities, as cited by
Parkman in his " Huguenots in Florida." The accounts of
the few French survivors coincide in all essential particulars.
For an account of the signal vengeance subsequently
visited upon the Spaniards by Domenique de Gourgues, a
French Huguenot, see p. 120.
3Iatanzas Inlet has only about six feet of water at high
tide and in easterly weather the sea often breaks entirely
across the entrance. It is, however, practicable for sail-
boats and sharpies. Matanzas River extends eight or ten
miles south of the Inlet, finding its source in Graham's
Swamp. Fellicer's Creek joins it near the Inlet. Sportsmen
sometime!? find good shooting along these streams, which may
be ascended in canoes or very light boats far up toward their
source. Care should be taken not to be left by the tide, as a
night spent in the swamps is not an agreeable experience.
34. St. Augustine to Jacksonville (see p. 110).
35. St. Augustine to Palatka.
By J., T. & K. W. Ry. Thirty miles (1 hoar 40 minutes).
The general course of the route is southwest. Crossing the
prairies to the west of Matanzas River the Tocoi branch di-
verges to the right and enters a long stretch of piney woods,
gradually rising and interspersed with occasional hammocks.
Between Holy Branch and Merrifield we cross Deep Creek
and shortly aftei'ward approach the richer lands bordering
St. John's River. At East Palatka Junction change cars if
bound for Halifax River, otherwise the train crosses St.
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 183
John's Eiver to the i^rinciisal station near the steamboat
whai'f in Palatka (p. 188). Consult local time table.
About six hours can be spent in Palatka if it is desired to re-
turn the same day to St. Augustine. Visit Hart's orange
grove, drive through the suburbs north and south of Palatka.
38. Jacksonville to Palatka.
By J., T. & K. W. Ky., 56 miles {2 hours 5 minutes'), for stations and dis-
tances, see pages 17, 25". 82. By St. John's River steamboats, 75 miles (about 6
hours), for landings and distances, see page 186.
Bi/ Bail to Palatka. The general course of the line is nearly
north and south, following to some extent the curves of the
St. John's Eiver, and never more than three or four miles
from its western bank. The stream, however, is rarely in
sight, owing to the almost continuous belt of pine fore.st
(see map of Duval County, page 21:), Shortly after leaving
the station at Jacksonville the line curves to the southward,
passing through a level country, with occasional villages
and orange groves. Three miles beyond Edgewood we
cross HcGirt's Creek on a trestle, and if the day be warm
and the traveller in luck he may here catch his first glimpse
of the Florida alligator. Two miles south of Read's the
train passes into Clay County (see page 14). Just beyond
Black Creek Station is the stream from which it takes its
name, navigable to Middleburg, six miles west, where it
divides into two main bi'anches, and these again into nu-
merous small ones, draining nearly the whole of Clay County,
and affording access by small boats to a wild and beautiful
lake region in the southwestern part of the county.
For Green Cove Springs see page 187. At Melrose
Crossing, just south of Green Cove Springs, is the Western
Railroad of Florida to Belmore, fifteen miles southwest.
Shortly after leaving West Tocoi, the line passes into Put-
nam County (see page 80 for map, stations, and distances).
The large stream crossed two miles beyond Teasdale is
Rice's Creek, which rises among the lakes of the north-
western part of the county. This stream is navigable for
184 .SAINT AUCiUSTINK.
launches and small l):)a;s, and is one of the favorite excur-
sions for visitois at Palatka.
39. Jacksonville to Palatka by River.
This part of the St. John's River is in effect almost a con-
tinuous lake, often several miles wide, and again narrowing
to less than a mile. As a rule, the banks are somewhat
monotonous, though there is always more or less of interest
in the changing vegetation along the shores and in the var-
ied forms of life almost always to be seen in air or water.
Shooting is very properly prohibited on all passenger steam-
ers. Formerly it was carried to such excess that the river
trip was often a continuous fusillade. Several accidents,
one of which resulted fatally, at last compelled a reform of
the abuse.
Just above the railroad drawbridge at Jacksonville the
river bends abruptly to the southward, between Grassy
Point on the east and Lancaster Point on the west. The
cluster of three piles, painted red, marks the lower end of
Middle Ground Shoal. To the eastward are the wooded
bluffs of Villa Alexandria, one of the finest private estates in
the neighborhood of Jacksonville.
A triangular red beacon bearing a red light at night marks
the upper end of the Middle Ground Shoal. On the east
bank, two miles above Grassy Point, is Phillip's Point, with a
steamboat landing. Nearly opposite, on the west bank, is the
mouth of McGirt's Creek, and just above it Sadler's Point.
Three and a half miles farther south is Piney Point, marked
by tall pines showing above the surrounding trees. Just
above Piney Point, on the same side of the river, is the set-
tlement and landing of Black Point, and nearly opposite is
the mouth of Goodsby's Creek. The next landing and set-
tlement south of Black Point is Mulberry Grove, and across
the river, nearly opposite, is Beauclerc Bluff, a conspicuous,
heavily wooded jiromontory, off which stands a black beacon
(No. 21).
Two miles above this is Mandarin Point, and on the same
side are the toYfU a^d lauding of Mandarin, formerly the
SAINT AUGUSTINE. 185
residence of Mrs. Harriet Beeclier Stowe. A little above
Mandarin a black and red buoy marks the wreck of the
steamer Maple Leaf, and nearly opposite, just north of the
entrance to Doctor's Lake is Orange Park, with a long wharf
reaching out to the channel.
The next reach in the river is from Mandarin on the east to
Magnolia Point on the west bank (six and one-half miles) aver-
aging one and one-half to two miles in Avidth. Julington and
Cunningham's Creeks enter on the east bank. Four miles
farther south on the same side is New Switzerland Point,
heavily wooded and identified by a single tree standing out
beyond the rest. Opposite, on the west bank, is Hibernia,
above which, one mile and three-quarters, is the mouth of
Black Creek (navigable to Middleburg, seme eight miles in
the interior) and Magnolia Point a high bliift' bank with
heavy woods. On the east bank, nearly opposite, is Popo
Point, with Piemington Park and a steamboat landing.
Turning Magnolia Point a reach of six miles opens south-
east to Six Mile Point. On the west bank, two and three-
quarter miles distant, are the hotels and many buildings of
Green Cove Springs (see page 187). Above this landing,
one mile and three-quarters, is red beacon No. 38, marking
Old Field Point on the west and San Patricio Point on the
east bank. South of the last named point a deep bight
makes in, called Hogarth's Bay, into which empties Six
Mile Creek. Beyond this the river narrows to a mile as far
as Picolata Point, and the town of Picolata on the east bank.
At this place, and at a point on the opposite side of the
river, forts were maintained during the period of Spanish
rule. They were successfully defended against the English
under Oglethorpe in December, 1739, but were taken in
January following as preliminary to the siege of St. Augus-
tine (see page 142). The remains of the earthworks can
still be traced, but they are not easily found by a stranger.
From Picolata Point the river is nearly straight for ten
miles to Federal Point on the east bank. It varies in width
from three-quarters of a mile to two and one-half miles.
Three miles south of Picolata are Orange Point, Tocoi Creek,
and Tocoi, in the order named. The town is the terminus
186 SAINT AUfiUSTINE.
of the St. John's Kaihvay, 18 miles to 8t. Augustine. Ka-
cey's Point is three miles above Tocoi, on the same side of
the river. Nearly opposite, entering from the westward, is
Cedar Creek, and above this on the west bank is Nine Mile
Point, off which stands red beacon No. 44. One mile far-
ther south is Palmetto Bluff. Federal Point on the east bank
may be identified by black buoy 35, which is placed a little to
the north of the landing.
From Federal Point to Dancy's Point, south by west three
and one-half miles, the river is about a mile wide. Opposite
the town of Orange Mills is an extensive flat island, or marsh,
with a channel on either side. On the west bank are Bo-
dine's Point and Whetstone Point, in the order named. Off
the latter is a cluster of three piles, with a red light set at
night. Another stretch of three and three-quarter miles
west southwest brings us np with Forrester's Point on the
east bank and the mouth of Rice's Creek opposite, where,
with a sharp sweep to south by east, Palatka comes in sight
with its railroad bridge three miles distant. (For Palatka and
vicinity, see p. 188.)
This point is considered the head of navigation for sailing
vessels, as the river becomes so narrow and crooked in its
upper reaches that only steamboats can navigate it to advan-
tage. It is, however, the most interesting to tourists, owing
to the nearness of the banks and the increasingly tropical
character of the vegetation.
Rive}- landings and distances between Jacksonville and
Palatka are as follows ; those on the east bank are marked E,
those on the west W :
Miles. [ Mii.es.
St. Nichoks, E 2 Orange Dale, E 34
Riverside, W 3 Hogarth's Landing, E 38
Black Point, W 10 Picolata, E 44
Mulberry Grove, W 12 Tocoi, E 46
Mandarin. E 15 Federal Point, E 58
Oransre Park, W 15 Oranse Mills. E 63
Fruit Cove, E 19 Cook's Landing, E 65
Hibernia, W 23 Daucv's Wharf, E 66
New Switzerland. E 23 Russell's Point, E 6T
R-'mington Park, E 25 : Whetstone, W 68
Masruoiia, W 23 1 Russell's Landing, E 69
Green Cove Springs, W 30 1 Palatka, W 75
For landings, etc., above Palatka, see Route 51.
GREEN COVE SPRINGS. 187
40. Grreeu Cove Springs, Clay County.
Population, 1,200. Twenty-nine miles from Jacksonville, twenty-seven miles
from Palatka.
Hotels.— Clare, $3 to S4 a day.— Clarendmi, $i a day.— llorganza, $1.50 to $2
a day. — St. Clair, J3 to §4. — The Fines, S3 a day. Also several smaller hotels
and boarding-houses.
Railroads and Steamboats.— Several trains north and south daily by J., T.
& K. W. Ky. All the St. John's River steamboats touch at this landing.
This town has been for many years a place of considerable
resort, owing to its tine sulphur springs, and the natural ad-
vantages of its situation. Even as seen from the windows
of a passing train its attractions are evident, for considerable
labor has been expended in laying out streets, fencing oflf
parks with massive pine logs, and removing evidences of
recent clearings.
A short walk or ride from the station brings the visitor to
Magnolia Avenue, the business street of the place. A short
distance farther is the great spring, which discharges three
thousand gallons of water every minute, at a temperature of
78^ F., the year round. The wonderful purity of the water, its
gi'een, mysterious depths, reflections and colors are a source
of never-ending pleasure. The water is slightly impregnated
with sulphur, but loses it by evaporation after a short ex-
posure to the air. Excellent bathing arrangements have
been provided, and comfortable rustic seats are found at
almost every turn. Borden Park, including about five acres,
lies along the river on high ground with its native growth of
magnolia, live oak, and palmetto, the rubbish only having
been cleared away. It is private property, but open to the
public, though a quaint inscription posted at the entrance
may proiDeiiy prove discouraging to vandals. Much ingenu-
ity has been displayed in the adaptation of natural tree-
trunks for fences, gate-posts, tree-seats, and the like. On
the river bank, and jDrojecting out over the w'ater, is a tree
said to have been used as a lookout by the Seminoles during
their wars, for this was one of their permanent camps. Be-
yond the park a fascinating foot-path extends far along the
river side and across Governor's Creek to Magnolia, one of
the pleasantest resorts on the St. John's.
Green Cove Springs contains many charming winter resi-
188 (iHEEN COVE SPRIN(;S— PALATKA.
deuces, some of them snironnded with carefully tended gar-
dens full of horticultural rarities, and most attractive to vis-
itors from a colder climate.
The town itself contains churches of all the leading de-
nominations, schools, stores, livery stables, tramways. Ex-
cursions may be made by boat up the river as far as Palatka,
or down as far as Jacksonville, returning by boat or rail the
same day, and on both sides of the river there are many
points of interest easily within reach.
50. Palatka, Putnam County (C.H.).
Population, 6,000.— Lat. 29° 38' N.— Long;. 81° 38' W.
Hotels. — Arlington, $2. — Canova, $1.30. — Wtnthrop, $3. — Kean Building,
Rooms 50c. — Putnam House, $4. — Saratoga, |3. — West End House, f 2 ; $8 to
$10 by week.
Railroads, Steamboats, etc.— The J., T. & K. W. system (to Jacksonville,
St. Augustine, Daytona, Gainesville, Tampa, Pnnta Gorda, etc. ). Stations for
points north and south, 1 mile west from river ; station for points on sea-
coast, etc., near steamboat wharf and railroad bridge. Through cars are run
around the city, making connections without change'(see local time tables).
Steatiihoats. — All the St. John's River steamboats land at the wharf near the
railroad bridge. Ocklawaha steamboats land at the same wharf.
Carriage fare from railways and steamboats, 2.5c. to any part of the city ;
luggage, '25c. per piece.
. Jjiver;/.— Saddle-horses, $1.50 a day if reasonably used. Double teams, $2 an
hour, $5 a day.
Roicboats, 25c. an hour, $1.50 to $2 a day. Sail-boats 50c. an hour, $3 a day.
Steam launches can be chartered for |l5 to $25 a day, according to size of
party and length of intended trip.
Guidi'.s for hunting or fishing miy be engaged at the hotels or boat landings at
$2.50 to $3 a day.
TrarrL-cars at 10 minute intervals run between the railroad stations, fare 5c.
History.
Palatka was settled in 1821, by James Marver and two
companions named Hine and Woodruff. They secured a
Spanish grant and established a trading post for traffic with
the Indians. Marver's store stood near the foot of Main
Street, and no doubt the large live oaks on the bluff close at
hand witnessed many a sharp bargain that brought gold
into the white man's pocket. He was, however, a great
favorite with his savage patrons, and had no difficulties with
them during his stay.
At some date not precisely fixed Dr. N. Bnish, of New
York, purchased Marver's lands and interests and continued
PALATKA. 189
the business, bis two nephews, Thomas and William Brush,
being his agents. The post was sacked and burned promptly
on the outbreak of the Seminole War in 1835, and the young
men barely escaped with their lives.
A military post was soon afterward established here, and
in 1840 it was constituted a regular ordnance depot, with the
barracks and shops necessary for a considerable garrison
and for the repair of their arms and equipments. Eight
large log block-houses were constructed along the line of
Water Street, one of them with a watch-tower eighty feet
high. The commanding officer's head-quarters were where the
late Colonel Devall's house now stands. Cavalry stables for
four hundred horses occupied the site of the Putnam
House and a large hospital was erected on the Hart property.
Among the officers quartered here were Scott, Taylor,
Worth, and Gaines, who won distinction and rank in the sec-
ond M'ar with Great Britain and in the early Indian war.
Still younger were lieutenants W. T. Sherman, and Silas
Casey, who saw their first field service in Florida and rose to
the highest rank during the Civil War.
After the subjugation of the Indians and the discontinuance
of the military post, Palatka became the shipping point for
the produce of the neighboring country. Prior to the com-
pletion of the railroad in 1886 it was the most southerly
lauding of any importance on the river, and soon became a
favorite resort for invalids who sought a warmer climate and
dreaded the cold easterly winds of the coast. By 1850 it
was a delightful place of residence, with many handsome
houses, some of which are still the finest in town. It was
fairly embosomed in orange trees, and, being an outpost of
civilization on the borders of an almost unbroken wilderness,
offered great attractions to sportsmen. Its commercial pros-
perity did not begin until after the Civil War, when it be-
came the distribiiting centre for a wide tract of rich countiy,
and with the advent of the railroad in 1886 became the busy
and prosperous place that now exists. It suffered the fate
of nearly all Florida towns, and was nearly destroyed by
fire. Like its sisters, however, it rallied pluckih' from the
disaster and was rebuilt on a more substantial basis. It may
190 PALATKA.
now be reached in thirty-six hours from New York and
will, no doubt, long maintain its position as the most impor-
tant town on the river above Jacksonville.
The visitor will find pleasant walks in either direction,
north or south, along the river bank. The roads in the vi-
cinity are rather sandy for driving, but equestrians may ride
in almost any direction with the certainty of a pleasant ex-
perience. The rivers and the neighboring lakes afford a great
variety of delightful trips. (See Boutes 42 to 54.)
HarCs Orange Grove, one of the oldest and most famous
groves in the State, is on the opposite side of the river, about
three miles from the wharves. It is easily reached by boat
from the foot of Main Street. This grove was budded on
wild stock about 1832, was badly damaged by the severe
frost of 1835, and began bearing about 1845. It covers some
70 acres of land, contains about 500 trees, and yields about
12,000 boxes of oranges annually.
51. Lake George.
This fine lake, about sixteen miles long and»eight miles
wide, lies at the junction of four of the most fertile and
prosperous counties of Florida, namely, Putnam, Lake, Vo-
lusia, and Marion. Its outlet is about thirty-eight miles
south of Palatka, and it may be reached either by boat or
rail, the excursion affording a pleasant all day trij). The
regular St. John's River steamboats may be taken to any of
the Lake George landings, or the trip may be extended to
Volusia, ^vhere the St. John's & Lake Eustis Railway touches
the river, and train may be taken for Eustis, Leesburg, and
the Lake region. The time to Volusia by boat is about four
hours. Steam launches may be hired at Palatka, with which
the round of the lake may be comfortably made in a day at
an exi^euse of .S15 to §25. The trip may be varied by stop-
ping at Seville Landing, about half way up the lake. Con-
veyances may be secured by telegraphing to the hotel at
Seville. Tlie distance from the landing to the railroad is
about four miles.
PALATKA. 191
52. The Fruitland Peninsula.
This name is given to a tract of fine land lying between
the St. John's Eiver and Lake George on the west, and
Crescent Lake and its outlet, Dunn's Creek, on the east. It
is about twenty miles long and from six to ten miles wide
from lake to river. This territory was a favorite with the Ind-
ian tribes of prehistoric times, whose agricultural instincts
led them to select the best lands for their field crops.
One of the oldest settlements on tlie St. John's River was
formed under English rule at Mount Royal, in the latter part
of the last century. Considerable progress was made in Eu-
ropean methods of cultivation, but all lands were abandoned
with the return of the Spaniards, and it was not until after
the Seminole War that permanent white settlements were
resumed. Now the whole peninsula is thickly dotted with
farms and orange groves, and is one of the most thriving
communities of Middle Florida. The peninsula consists of
high pine land, interspersed with hammock, and admirably
adapted for all kinds of agriculture. The large lakes to the
eastward and westward, with the smaller bodies of water
scattered through the interior, equalize the temperature to
an unusual degree.
Throughout the peninsula there are pleasant rides and
drives, and conveyances or saddle-horses may be engaged at
almost any of the principal river or lake landings.
53. Crescent Lake.
Dunn's Creek, the outlet of Crescent Lake, falls into the
St. John's about six miles south of Palatka. It is a deep,
crooked, picturesque stream, eight miles long, and traversed
daily by steamboats. The trip may be varied by passing
through Murphy's Creek, a branch of the main outlet. The
lake is sixteen miles long and three miles wide, fed at its
upper end by Haw Creek, which forms the boundary be-
tween St. John's and Volusia Counties, and sends its various
102 i'ALATKA— SEVILLE.
branches well over toward the sea-coast near the head of
Halifax Eiver.
Crescent City, the principal town on the lake, is hand-
somely laid out on the western shore, on high land, and with
Lake Stella immediately to the westward of the town. The
level of this lake is said to be forty feet higher than that of
Crescent Lake. There is a road and regular conveyance from
Crescent City to the railroad, but the lake steamers from
Palatka afford tlie easier and pleasanter means of access.
54. Seville, Volusia County.
Population, 400.
Hotels. — The Seville, $3.50 a day ; special rates by week or month. — The
Grand Vleuc.
Seville, with its tasteful and characteristic log- built .sta-
tion, and its jjalm- and orange-lined main street, at once at-
tracts the eye of the Northern traveller, if only by a casual
glance from tlie car window. The town is, in fact, one of
the most attractive in Florida, owing to judicious and liberal
outlay of money in providing a complete system of sewerage,
and a water-supply drawn from a neighboring lake. The
sewage is received in tanks, where the solids are precipitated
by chemical action, and the liquids are carried off through
subsoil pipes to the neighboring fields. The works were
planned by Mr. J. J. Powers, late Sanitary Engineer of Brook-
lyn, N. Y., and are identical in plan of construction with
those that solved the very i^erplexing problem of sewerage
at Coney Island, N. Y. The town site is at the southern
end of the Fruitland Peninsula, in the midst of the high
pine orange belt. Four miles west of the railroad station
and hotels is Lake George, well known to hunters and fish-
ermen. The town fronts on Lakes Louise and Beatrice,
two sheltered lakes of pure water, whose shores afford most
attractive sites for cottages and permanent residences. In
the vicinity are nearly all the characteristic varieties of Flor-
ida land. The hammock bordering the lake is very rich, and
has for many years been known as especially favorable to the
SEVILLE. 193
growth of the wild or Seville orange, the theory being that
ail the wild orange-trees of Florida are seedlings from fruit
imported by the Sjjaniards. The name Seville Grove was
originally given to a considei'able section of this region com-
prised in the old Storrs grant, and purchased by William
Kemble Lente, one of the earliest Northern settlers in this
region. The wild trees were topped and budded, and came
into bearing in a surprisingly short time. It has since been
equalled and surpassed by many groves in the vicinity, but
is still justly regarded as a type of what can be done with
wild orange- trees in this part of the State.
Saddle-horses and carriages can be engaged at the hotel
for drives about this very interesting, prosperous, and well-
cultivated region.
55. Palatka to Sanford by Rail.
J., T. & K. W. Ry., sixty-nine miles (2 hours 50 minutes). For stations and
distances see pp. 82, 9T.
The general direction of the railway line is a little east of
south. Leaving Palatka the train traverses the level sub-
urbs and, after a few minutes, crosses the St. John's Eiver
on a long trestle and drawbridge. Here occurs a good op-
portunity to observe the tangled growth of the low ham-
mock bordering the river. A range of blufls, remarkably
bold and high for this region, will be noticed at this point,
their sides often covered with orange gi'oves. For twenty
miles after crossing the river the railroad traverses the
central ridge of the Fruitland Peninsula (see p. 191). At
times the route seems lined with orange groves for miles on
both sides, and in the season of fruit and blossoms the pano-
rama is one not to be forgotten. Many pretty lakes break
the monotony of grove and forest, most of them deep and
full of water at all seasons of the year.
Between Denver and Hammond the boundary line of
Putnam and Volusia Counties is crossed (see jDp. 80, 94).
At Seville notice the station, a genuine log-cabin adapted
to the taste and requirements of civilization, the bark and
194 SEVILLE.
knots smoothed away, the logs finished in oil, and all the
rudeness of the frontier skilfully eliminated. (See, also,
account of Seville, p. 192.) On both sides of the track are al-
most continuous orange groves, the trees thriving on soil
that to all appearance is nothing better than sand. Those
who are interested in such matters will do well to stop in
this neighborhood and inspect methods of orange culture,
and, if it be the proper season, of harvesting, packing, and
the like.
At De Land Junction is the crossing of a branch road to
the St. John's Eiver on the west and to De Land, the
county seat, on the east (see Route 53).
At Orange G'ttij Junction is the crossing of the Atlantic &
Western Railroad, extending to the St. John's River on the
west, and to New Smyrna on the east (see Route 63).
At Enterprise Junction the train divides, part going eastward
to Indian River (see Rotate 70), and jjart continuing to the
southward and presently crossing the St. John's River just
below the outlet of Lake Monroe. At this point is Monroe,
the junction of the Orange Belt Railway (see p. 49). The
line now curves to the east, and soon stops in the handsome
station at San ford.
56. Palatka to Sanford by River.
One hundred and twenty mOes (about 8 hours by daylight, 12 hours by
night).
Above the drawbridge at Palatka lies the most interesting
part of the St. John's River. Here the stream loses its
lacustrine character and becomes comparatively narrow and
swift, and so crooked that the distance to Sanford is nearly
double that by rail. Local time-tables should be con-
sulted so as to secure a trip one way or the other by day-
light. The night trip, however, is by no means devoid of
interest, for the boats carry brilliant headlights which pro-
duce striking and novel effects along the densely wooded
shores. A good view of Hart's Orange Grove is obtained in
passing (see p. 190). The vicinity of Rollestou was early
SEVILLE. 195
settled by English i^ioneers, but was abantloned wlieu the
Spaniards resumed control in 1784:.
A little above Westouia is the mouth of Dunns Creek, the
navigable outlet of Crescent Lake (see p. 191), and at Buffalo
Bluff is the railroad drawbridge. Nearly opposite Beecher
is the mouth of the Ocklawaha River.
Beyond Fort Gates, a military post during the Indian
wars, is the outlet of Lake George. The small island to the
westward is Hog Island ; the larger one is Drayton Island,
containing 1,870 acres of remarkabh* productive soil, under-
laid with beds of carbonate and phosphate marl. The island
was settled by E. W. Towle, in 1875, and now has a well-to-
do poi^ulation of about one hundred and fifty. Orange cult-
ure is very successful on the island, owing to the protection
afiforded by the surrounding waters, and the inhabitants say
that even the severe frost of 1886 passed over the island
without doing any harm.
On the west shore is the outlet of Lake Kerr, a beautiful,
irregular body of water, with two towns on its shores. Lake
George, eighteen miles long, affords an agreeable change
from the narrow, winding stream, but in a short time the
southern inlet is reached, and shortly afterward Volusia, the
site of one of the early Spanish Missions. From De Land
Landing is a short branch railroad to the county town (see
p. 198).
Bine Siwing Landing takes its name from a fine spring
that boils up from iinknowu depths a few rods from the river
bank. To visit the spring it is necessary to pass through
private grounds, for which permission should be asked.
From this landing the Atlantic <fe Western Eailroad (see p.
97) extends eastward to New Smyrna on the sea-coast.
A considerable stream joins the St. John's on the west
side about six miles above Blue Spring. It is the Kissimmee
Kiver, but has no connection with the large river of that
name farther south. Passing through the last drawbridge
on the St. John's, Lake Monroe opens to the eastward with
the distant buildings of Sanford and Enterprise visible
among the tall palms on the opposite shores. (For Lake
Monroe, see p. 197.)
196 SEVILLE— SANFORD.
Rivei- landings are as follows from Palatka to Sanford.
Distances are given from Jacksonville. E. signifies east
bank, W. west bank.
Hart's Orange Grove, E 75 l Yellow Bluff. W 121
Eollefiton, E 78 i Sprinix (iarden, E 122
San Mateo. E 79 Spring Grove, E 126
Edpcwatcr, E 80 Lake View, E 132
Bufialo Bluff, W 87 Volusia. E 134
Horse Landing, W • 96 Astor, W 134
Nashua, E 95 Manhattan, W 136
Smith's Landing, E 96 Fort Butler, W 138
Welaka, E 100 Oransre Bluff, E 140
Beechcr, E 101 Bluffton, E 140
Norwalk, W 103 , St. Francis, W 155
MountRoyal.E 105 Old Town, W ... 156
Fruitlands, E 105 Crow's Landing, W 159
Poit Gates, W 106 Hawkinsville, W 160
Pelham Park, E 112 Cabbage Bluff. E 162
Racemo, E 112 De Land Landing, E 162
Georgetown, E 113 Lake Beresford, E 163
Orange Point. E 113 Blue Spring. E 168
Lake George, E 115 Wekdva, E 184
Drayton Island. W 116 Shell Bank, E 163
Salt Springs, W 119 Sanford, W 195
Benella, W 120 Mellon\ille, W 196
Seville, E 120 Enterprise, E ...200
60. Sanford, Orange County.
Population, 3,500.— Lat. 28° 50' N.— Long. 81° 17' W.
Hotels.— r^ Sanjord Home, $3 to $4 a day.— San Le(m Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a
day.
itALLROADS, STEAMBOATS, ETC. Jacksotivilh, Tampa <6 Kep West Railway,
north to Jacksonville (see pp. 69, 82, 97), and east to Indian River (see p. 97).
South Florida Railroad, south to Tampa, Punta Gorda, and the Gulf steam-
ship lines (see pp. 70. 73, 79).
tianford rf- Lake Eiistis Railimy, west to Tavares, Leesburg, etc. (see p. 48).
Sanford £■ Indian River Railwai/, southeast to Lake Charm (see p. 71).
The Orange Belt Railway, southwest to Tarpon Springs and the Pinellas
Peninsula (see pp. 38, 49, 70, 74. 87).
All these roads use a station in common near the hotels and business streets.
Restaurant in station.
Steamboats. — The steamboat wharf is five minutes' walk east of the Sanford
House. There are daily boats to and from Jacksonville and intermediate land-
ings.
Carriage rate from station or landing, 25c. ; luggage, 25c. per piece.
iu'eri/.- Saddle horses, 75c. to $1 an hour, $2 to 13 a day. Double teams, $5
a day.
Guides for hunting and fishing. f5 a day with dogs and outfit.
Sanford is pleasantly situated on the south shore of Lake
Monroe, the land rising from the water level in a gentle
slope sufficient for efitectual drainage. The town is named
after General H. S. Sanford, late United States Minister to
Belgium.
SANFORD. 197
The surrounding land was an old Spanish grant, and be-
longed, in 1870, to General Joseph Finegan, an ex-officer of
the Confederacy. From him General Sanford purchased the
entire estate (known as the old Levy grant) of twenty-three
square miles. At that time there was on the lake shore an
insignificant hamlet called Mellonville, after Captain Mellon,
U.S.A., who was killed here in an engagement with the
Seminoles. Genehil Sauford's early attempts to introduce
organized labor, whether white or black, were resisted by
force of arms, but he soon became strong enough to defy
the prejudices of the scattered population, and the result is
ajjparent in the jiresent prosperity of the place. A large
number of Swedes were imported with their families, and
they now form a prosperous part of the community.
Belair, three miles south of Sanford, and easily reached by
rail or carriage road, is one of the largest and most famous
plantations in the State. It is the property of General San-
ford, who began operations on a large scale soon after liis
purchase of the Levy grant. The grove contains 95 acres
of oranges and 50 acres of lemons, with a large experimental
farm, wliere all kinds of exotics are tested under the best
possible conditions for ascertaining their adaptability to the
Florida climate.
Lake Monroe is nearly circular in shape, six miles long, a
little more than five miles wide, and with an average depth
of about twelve feet. Sanford and Enterprise are the only
two towns on its shores. The fishing for bass and the other
fresh-water varieties of fish is good in all parts of the lake,
but of course the fish have their favorite feeding-grounds,
and until these are ascertained there is little use in fishing.
The shores of the lake are for the most part wild, and cov-
ered with a heavy growth of forest and saw jDalmetto. Deer
and turkies are found within a few miles of the lake, and
even along its less frequented borders, but without a guide
and trained dogs it is nearly impossible to shoot them. Above
Lake Monroe the river is not regularly navigated, though it
is practicable for good sized launches. It winds for the
most part among vast stretches of savannah and saw grass,
occasionally sjireading into large lakes, as Harney, Jessup,
198 SANFORD— UE LAND.
Poinsett, Winder, and Washington. It is often a very dif-
ficult matter to decide which is the true river channel, but
when found the stream is easily navigable and the upper
lakes are so near the Indian River at Kockledge and Eau
Gallic that carries are easily made across the intervening
hammock. The upper St. John's should not be attempted
save in a boat that will serve as a sleeping-place at a pinch,
for there are often long stretches of morass where it is im-
l^ossible to camp comfortably on shore.
61. De Land. Volusia Couuty.
Population. 2,000.— Lat. 29° N.— Long. 81° 14' W.
Hotels.— CarroMtoJi Hous\ $2.50 to i&.—rarceland Hotel, $2.50 to %Z.— Put-
nam House, $2 to f3.
Railroads.— Branch to De Land .Junction and Landing on St. John's River,
five miles west, where connection is made with J., T. & K. W. Ry., and with
river steamboats.
Carriage rate from station, 25c. ; luggage, 25c. par piece.
De Land has good hotels, electric lights, numerous stores,
cliurches, schools, and a general air of business prosperity.
As the seat of government of a large county in the heart of
the orange region it is the centre of a considerable 'Amount
of business connected with the growing interests of the
community. The situation is healthful in the high pine re-
gion, and forest still surrounds it, save where it has been
cleared away to make room for orange groves and other im-
provements. The town is named after its founder, Mr. H.
A. De Land.
In the immediate neighborhood are several interesting
l^laces, notably the residence and grounds of Mr. John B.
Stetson, of Philadelphia, where horticulture in its various
branches is carried to a high degree of perfection.
The L-ondequoit Dairy, within easy walking distance of the
hotels, is interesting as one of the most successful attempts
to introduce Jerseys, Holsteiu, and other high grade cattle
into this region.
Lake Helen, six miles southeast, may be reached from De
Land either by road through the woods or by rail, changing
at De Land Junction and Orange City. (See next page.)
De Leon Spring, six miles north, is a pleasant resort for
DE LAND— LAKE HELEN. 199
picnic parties. The Spring boils up in such volume that it
was formeiiy used to drive a sugar-mill, the ruins of which
are still to be seen near by.
Spring Garden, three miles north of De Leon Spring, has
entered successfully ujjon silk culture. There are several
i:)rosperous silk-farms in the vicinity, where may be seen the
curious processes connected with this industry.
Dexter Lake and the St. John's River are available for
boating and fishing exchrsions. The best hunting grounds
are to the eastward, in a wide belt of sparsely settled country,
partly savanna, partly hammock, from five to fifteen miles
from the railroad. Hunters and guides can be engaged at
$5 a day, or at a stated amount according to the success
achieved ; so much for a shot at a deer, so much for a turkey,
or so much for a wildcat, the hunter, of course, not being
responsible for the marksmanship of the sportsman,
De Land University stands on an elevation just outside the
town, commanding a good view of the vicinity. It is de-
signed to afford facilities for students of both sexes who
prefer a southern climate during the winter months. There
are ample buildings, separate dormitories, and a full staff
of instructors for the different departments. The school
year of thirty weeks begins in October and ends in May.
62. Lflke Helen. Volusia County.
Lat. 28° 58' N.— Long. 81° 13' W.
Hotels.— rA« Harlan Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a Any.— The Granville, $7 to $10 a
week.
Railroads. — The Atlantic & Western Railroad east to New Smyrna and coast-
wise steamers, west to J., T. & K. W. Ry. and St. John's River steamers.
Lake Helen is essentially a resort or sanitarium. Its in-
habitants are mainly Northerners, who come for the winter,
l^referring the air of the piney woods to that of the sea-
coast. For such persons the situation is very attractive.
The laud is high, the surface of the lake being about sixty
feet above the sea level, and the bluff* where the hotel stands
some thirty feet higher.
The place is named after the daughter of its founder, Mr.
H. A. Da Land. The lake is one of a chain of similar lakes of
200 LAKE HELEN— DAYTON A.
small size, but filled with pure water and of great depth.
Lake Helen, it is said on good authority, has been sounded
to a depth of more than two hundred feet without finding
bottom. The fishing is good and tlie hotel has a large fleet
of rowboats at the disposal of its guests without extra charge.
Along the west shore of the lake are a number of handsome
cottages, with luxuriant flower-gardens containing all kinds
of tropical and semi-tropical plants that grow and blossom
in the open air all the year roiuid. The facilities for house-
keeping are exceptionally good, as there is a large vegetable
garden connected with the hotel, a local meat market, and
stores that furnish the ordinary supplies required in this
climate.
70. Daytoiia, Volusia County.
Population, 1,700.— Lat. 29° 10' N.— Long. 81° W.
Hotels.- OcedH House, $2..50 to 13 a day.— J^almetto Hotel, $2 to $2..50 a day.
Eailroads and Steamboats.— St. John and Halifax River Railway, to Pa-
latka. Steamboats to Lagoon landings, Titusville, and Rockledge.
From Palatka to Daytona is 57 miles (3 hours 25 minutes).
The general direction of the railroad is southeast, passing
from Putnam to St. John's County at Yelvington, crossing
the latter and entering Volusia County a mile south of Bulow
(see pp. 80, 82, 94). After crossing the bridge at Palatka
the famous Hart orange grove may be seen to the south of
the track. Leaving the hammocks and rolling jjine lands
that border the St. John's Eiver, the country becomes low
and the track runs for miles across the head of a great cy-
press swamp that extends far down into Volusia County.
Beyond this the country becomes flat and at length ojiens
out into prairies, which give way again to wonderfully rich
hammock ridges along the coast. The Tomoka River is
crossed near a station of that name.
The town of Daytona stretches for two miles along the
west bank of Halifax River, a salt water lagoon about three-
fourths of a mile wide. It has streets pleasantly shaded
with live oaks and palmettos, including unusually fine speci-
mens of both. The hammock ridge on which tlie town
stands averages two miles wide and extends for 60 miles
DAYTONA. 201
down the coast. It is covered with a dense growth of hard
wood, including wild orange-trees, many of which have been
grafted and brought under cultivation. Among the notable
groves of the vicinity are the Higby, Blake, Wilder, and
Handy groves, the last named being a young grove while the
others are largely grafted on wild stock. To Holb/ Hill, three
miles north of Daytona, is a good road bordered with palms,
and, for tlie greater part of the distance, within sight of the
water.
Silver Beach. The peninsula that separates Halifax River
from the ocean rises to a considerable height opposite Day-
tona and for some miles to the northward. On the landward
side of this ridge are some of the most charming places in
Florida. Sheltered from the direct force of the ocean winds,
the gardens and plantations are remarkably luxuriant and
produce the more delicate varieties of tropical fruits and
flowers in abundance. There are several private residences
at Silver Beach, where a system of subirrigation has been
introduced with remarkable results, notably in the grounds
of Mr. Clark Marsh.
Drives. Many of the roads about Daytona are exception-
ally good, especially along the shore where shells have been
available for mixing with the soil. By far the finest drive
is along the ocean beach in either direction. At low tide an
expanse of sand several hundred feet wide is laid bare.
Level and hard as a floor, no finer driveway can be im-
agined. Bridges cross Halifax River at Daytona and Or-
mond, so that the route can be conveniently varied. For
beach drives the time of the tide should always be con-
sidered, as the sand is very heavy above high water mark.
Extended excursions np the beach, twenty six miles to Ma-
tanzas Inlet (see p. 178), or southward to Mosquito Inlet,
twelve miles (see p. 207), are quite practicable. At Mosquito
Inlet there are good hotels, but there is none within easy
reach at Matanzas, so that a good store of jirovisions and a
supply of freshwater should be taken if the longer excursion
is attempted. On the main land there are exceptionally
good roads southward to and beyond New Smyrna.
202 ORMOND.
71. Ormond, Volusia County.
Six miles north of Daytona (see above). Population, 300.
HoTKL.— 77«« Ormond, $4 a day.
A fiue bridge spaus Halifax River at this point, and a tram-
way crosses it extending to the ocean beach at one end and
to the St. J. & H. R. Railway at the other. Cars run at half
hour intervals, connecting with all passenger trains. The
Ormond Hotel has a large and completely apjiointed annex
on the ocean beach, so that guests can choose between the
magnificent ocean view or the more sheltered outlook across
the lagoon. The distance between the two houses is nearly
a mile, but inter-communication is easy by tramway or car-
riage road.
Tomoka River is a tributary of the Halifax, following a
northerly course nearly parallel to it, and navigable for ca-
noes and small boats for about twelve miles. The Tomokas
were a powerful Indian tiibe during the early years of Span-
ish occupation. A catechism in their language was prepared
by the Jesuit missionaries and published about 1613.
For other excursions iu the vicinity of Ormond see Route
60.
72. Halifax River.
This lagoon, or tidal river, has a total length of about
tweuty-five miles from its head to Mosquito Inlet. Its gen-
eral course is parallel to the ocean, from which it is sepa-
rated by a narrow strip of land, pai'tly hammock and partly
the ordinary beach growth of saw palmetto.
For the first six miles north of the inlet the river is
bordered by marshes, and is from two hundred to four hun-
dred yards wide, with at least eight feet of water in the
channel. Thence for fourteen miles it widens to about three-
quarters of a mile, with a channel depth of three to eight
feet. Above this it narrows again, and for a distance of four
miles is known as Halifax Creek. The headwaters consist
of two branches. Smith's Creek closely following the beach,
and Bulow's Creek turning more to the westward and rising
iu Graham's Swamp. There are bridges at Daytona and
ORMOND— NEW SMYRNA. 203
Ormontl, respectively twelve and eighteen miles from the
inlet.
Just north of the inlet is a wide stretch of marsh, inter-
sected by narrow creeks that connect to the westward M'ith
shallow bodies of water known as Rose, Strickland, and
Turnbull Bays.
Steamboats of light draught run regularly through Halifax
River, leaving Daytona in the morning on alternate days,
touching at Blake, Port Orange, Ponce Park, and other land-
ings, and continuing down Hillsborough aud Indian Rivers
as far as Rockledge. Railroad connections at Daytona, New
Smyrna, and Titusville.
80. New Smyrna. Volusia County.
Hotel. — Ocean House, $3 a day.
Railroad. — The Atlantic and Western (see p. 97).
Steamboats on Ualil'ax and Hillsborough Rivers.
New Smyrna is one of the oldest settlements in Florida.
Shell-mounds and barbaric implements are found, proving
its early occupation by Indians, and there are numerous
ancient ruins, probably of Sjjani.sh construction, but concern-
ing which nothing definite is known.
Authentic history begins in 1767, when a certain Dr.
Andrew Turnbull, an English gentleman of fortune, entered
upon the gigantic task of draining the low hammocks back
of New Smyrna, and making them fit for cuitivatiou. He
had satisfied himself of the wonderful richness of this tract,
and preliminary surveys had proved the possibilities of drain-
age. This was four years after the cession of Florida to
Great Britain, and the English were fast learning that they
need not depend on provision ships for the necessaries of
life.
Turnbull procured a grant of sixty thousand acres from
the Governor on condition that certain improvements should
be made within a specified time. He then sailed to the
Mediterranean, and secured permission from the authorities
to transport to Florida a large number of Greek families.
For this permit he paid £400. Most of the Greeks were
201 NEW SMYRNA.
from the Peloponnesus. The number was further recniited
from the Balearic Isles, and in the end some fifteen hundred
persons, men, women, and children, emigrated under his
leadership. On his part free transportation, with good pro-
visions and clothing were guaranteed. If any were dis-
satisfied at the end of six. months they were to be sent home,
but those who remained and worked for three years were to
receive fifty acres of land for each family, and twenty-five
acres for each child. The voyage jjroved long, and many
died on the passage, but the survivors began work with good
courage, built jjalmetto huts for the approaching winter, and
planted crops that yielded full returns in early spring. As
soon as it was certain that the colony was secure against
hunger, Turnbull planted indigo. In 1772, about three
thousand acres were under cultivation, and the net value of
the crop was £3,174.
Success seemed assi;ired, but for some reason the manage-
ment of affairs was left to agents, who inaugurated a sys-
tem of oppression that soon became absolute slavery with
all its revolting features. By 1776 only six hundred of the
colonists were left. In the summer of that year a party of
Englishmen from St. Augustine visited New Smyrna to see
the improvements, and, while conversing among themselves,
their comments on the state of affairs were overheard by a
bright Minorcan boy, who immediately told his mother what
he had heard. Secret meetings were held, and a plan was
concocted whereby a party of three of the bolder sjiirits were
granted leave of absence to catch turtle. Instead of going
south, however, they started up the coast, swam Matanzas
Inlet, and reaching St. Augustine appealed to Governor
Tonyn for protection , which was promised. The envoys re-
turned to New Smyrna with the tidings of release. A leader
was chosen, Pallicier by name, and under his direction the
able-bodied men provided themselves with wooden spears,
rations were packed for three days, and with the women and
children in the centre the six hundred began their mai'ch.
So secretly was all this managed that they had proceeded
several miles before their departure was discovered. No at-
tempt at forcible restraint was made, though it is said that
NEW SMYRNA. 205
Turubull himself waylaid them before the}' reached St. Au-
gustine, and endeavored to persuade them to return. They
marched on, however, and reported to the Governor, who
ordered j^rovisions for them, and organized a court for the
trial of their cause, the Attorney -General of the Province,
Younge by name, appearing as their counsel. TurnbuU
failed to establish any further claim upon their services, and
they were assured of personal liberty. Lands were assigned
them, and they soon became an influential element of the
population iu St. Augustine. Some of their descendants are
still to be found in the neighborhood of New Smyrna,
whither they returned after they became assured that there
was no danger of re-enslavement.
The canals, half -overgrown trenches, and cmmbling ruins
of stone buildings are all that now remain of Turnbull's en-
terprise, but they are beginning to play their part in the new
agricultural undertakings of the day. No doubt the whole
elaborate system of drainage will sooner or later again be
utilized.
After the Miuorcan revolt New Smyrna was abandoned for
nearly a generation. In 1803, however, a few pioneers came
back, and by 1835 some degree of prosperity had returned.
Then came the Seminole War and the little settlement was
nearly exterminated by successive raids. After peace was
restored the survivors found their way back, rebuilt their
houses, and for twenty years were undisturljed.
With the outbreak of the Civil War Mosquito Inlet of-
fered a tempting haven for blockade-runners, and it became
necessary to break ui? the rendezvoiis. Two United States
gunboats, the Penguin and the Henry Andrew, reached the
inlet on March 20, 1862. The last named vessel, being of
light draft, crossed the bar. On the 22d a boat expedition,
with 43 men, was sent down to Mosquito Lagoon to recon-
noitre. They went down eighteen miles, jiassing New
Smyrna unmolested, but on their return the leading boat
was fired into from an earthwork near the town, which from
previous examination was supj^osed to be abandoned. Lieu-
tenant Budd of the Penguin and Master Mather of the An-
drew were killed, and in the engagement that followed thir-
2()<; NEW SMYRNA.
teen others were killed or woiiDclcd. The survivors took to
cover on shore aud I'ojoined their ships after night had fallen.
Of course summary vengeance was taken for this attack, and
all buildings, wharves, and the like, that could be of service
to blockade-runners were destroyed.
New Smyrna is a favorite resort for sportsmen. The pro-
prietor of the hotel, Captain Sams, is familiar with the
whole region and is always ready either to accompany his
guests himself on hunting expeditions or to furnish comi^e-
tent guides, boats, and equipments. Large and small game
of all kinds is to be found in the woods and savannahs of the
mainland, and water-fowl frequent the marshy islands that
border the lagoons. The best of salt-water fish are caught
from the wharves or in the channel, especially in the vicinity
of Mosquito Inlet, four miles distant (see p. 207).
A few rods south of the hotel is one of the drainage canals
cut by Turnbull's engineers. On the other side, north of the
hotel, is a fine shell-mound, on which Turnbull built his
" castle " which is said to have been a solid structure cap-
able of good defence. The house that now occupies the
mound is built over the old cellars. South of the railroad
are other ruins, the remains of an old stone wharf, an old
burial-ground, and other evidences of long-forgotten habi-
tations. Farther back from the shore are ruined sugar-mills,
indigo-vats, and a network of admirably planned and con-
structed drainage works. In this direction an excellent
road continues to Hairks Park (2 miles), a beaiitifully situ-
ated town with pretty houses, a fine reach of river and easy
access to an ocean beach that has not a break for 130 miles.
Four miles north of the town, on a fine shell-mound, are
the walls of an old coquina house, still in excellent preser-
vation. It is called "The Rock House," but nothing what-
ever is known of its origin. It is said to have antedated
the Turnbull period. Two or three times it has been re-
jjaired and occupied, but as often has been destroyed by war
or accident. It is a picturesque little niin, commanding a
fine ouJook to seaward. The road lies through a magnifi-
cent forest. Beyond the "Eock House" the road continues
several miles to a point overlooking Turnbull Bay, where
FOXCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET. '2i)7
Imicheou can usually be procured at a house near hx. It is
not a public house, however, and such accommodation is by
courtesy.
81. Ponce Park and Mosquito Inlet, Volusia County.
Lat. 29° 4' 49'' N.— Long. 80° 5.5' 33" W.
Pacetli's Hotel, $2 a day.
ateamboais, on alternate days, north to Daytona and south to New Smyrna
and Titusville, at all which points are railroad connections.
The coast from Matanzas Inlet (see p. 178) to Mosquito
Inlet, forty-eight miles, is a repetition of that to the northward.
A continuous beach of hard, white sand, with deep water half
a mile to seaward. The general trend of the coast is south
by east, curving slightly inward, and the woods from inlet to
inlet on the mainland are seemingly unbroken. About three
miles north of Mosquito Inlet there is a conspicuous green
hill forty feet high, and there are numerous santl-hills in the
vicinity twenty feet high. Consjjicuous bluffs lie also to the
southward of the inlet. The break in the beach is half a
mile wide with a channel two hundred yards wide and five to
ten feet of water at low tide. The main rise and fall of the
tide is about two feet four inches. The sand-bars shift rap-
idly according to wind and tide, and the entrance is dan-
gerous without a local pilcjt. The lighthouse is a red brick
tower surmounted by a black lantern 160 feet above the sea.
It shows a white fixed liglit of the first order, visible eigh-
teen miles at sea. This tower was finished in 1887 and will
well repay a visit, for all its appointments are of the most
approved type. A flight of 218 steps leads to the lantern.
The walls are twelve feet thick at the base. From the gal-
lery at the top a strange and impressive view may be ob-
tained of the inlet and the surrounding wilderness of sea
and shore. The lighthouse is open to visitors at all hours
when the keepers are not on duty. The exact latitude and
longitude of the tower are given at the head of this article.
Ponce Park is the lawful name of the hamlet half a mile
north of the light tower. It is a noted resort for fishermen,
as the neighboring waters abound with shecpshead, bass,
Spanish mackerel, bluefish, and the other suit- water varie-
208 PONCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET.
ties. The hotel is adequate for the needs of sportsmen.
The walks in the vicinity are limited to the beaches and to a
few trails cut through the scrub to the ocean. From the
hotel south to the inlet (one mile) is an easy walk and the mag-
nificent ocean beach may be followed thence as far as de-
sired. Some of the trails leading from the beach to the
lighthouse and hotel are very difficult, and should not be at-
tempted except by good walkers. The ocean beach is very
fascinating with its rare and curious shells and its endless
persjjective of sand and surf. It is in perfect condition for
driving during several hours between tides every day.
For extended excursions boats are the only available ve-
hicles, and of these there is a good supply at the hotel. The
lagoons north and south, the beach beyond the Inlet, and
the intricate channels leading into Turnbull Bay are all
open to the boatman, and full of attractions for gunners,
fishermen, and tourists.
Hillsborough Riper extends southward from Mosquito
Inlet thirty-six miles, to the head of Indian River. The
first few miles are bordered by blufis on the south or sea-
ward side and marshes on the north. The channel is quite
deep, vessels drawing ten feet ascend to New Smyrna (see p.
203), but the shallows are intricate and shifting. Through
this part of the river the tide runs swiftly. South of
Smyrna the river is nearly parallel to the beach. The divid-
ing strip of land is often high and wooded, with occasional
settlements. The mid section of the river is much cut up
and obstificted by mangrove islands, and the channels are
intricate, but the main passage has been well marked by bea-
cons maintained by the canal company. In some places
the water is ten feet deep, but only four feet can be carried
through.
Turtle Mound, ten miles south of Mosquito Inlet, is the only
conspicuous natural landmark on this pavt of the coast. It
is so called from its fancied resemblance to a sea-tiirtle, the
central mound representing the shell, and two flanking
moiands the flipjjers. Seen from the summit of the mound,
the resemblance is quite apparent, but it is probably acci-
dental. The mound is about fortv feet high. The north
PONCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET. 209
side is quite precipitous, showing the shell strata •with occa-
sional evidences of fires, and, rarelv, some rude Indian relic.
An excavation was made bv explorers iu the summit of the
mound many years ago, but nothing of especial interest was
discovered.
The lower or southei'n reach, Hillsborough River, is twenty
miles long with an average width of about two miles. A
narrow strip of sand, often not more than two hundred yards
wide, separates it from the beach. The depth is four and
one-half to five feet. About twelve miles from its junction
with Halifax liiver it overlaps the head of Indian River,
being divided from it on the west by a ridge of limestone
rock, generally about one thousand yards wide. A canal
has been cut through the ridge seven hundred and fifty
yards long and fifty feet wide, and through this the boats of
the Indian River Steamboat Company now pass regularly to
and from the Indian River. Below the Haulover Canal the
land separating Halifax and Indian Rivers broadens into a
large tract known as Merritt's Island, though it is in reality
two islands separated by Banana River (see map of Brevard
County, p. 9).
Towns and landings on Halifax River, Hillsborough River,
and Mosquito Lagoon are as follows :
Miles. Miles.
Tomoka 0 New Smyrna 5
Onnond 6 Hawks Park 3
HollvHill 3 OakHill, \ ,„j.
Davtona 3 EMora (East bank)/ ^^^
Blake 3 Shiloh 5
Port Orange 3 Haulover 6
Ponce Park (Mosquito lulet) 5 ; Titusville 12
210 THE INDIAN RIVER.
90. The Indian River.
See map of Brevard County, p. 9. The direct ronte from Jacksonville to the
head of the river is* by J., T. & K. W. Ry., one hundred and fifty-nine miles, to
Titu^ville (5 hours rtO minutes). This may be varied by <:oin{? to Daytona and
the C3 by boat southward. Boats leave Daytona on alternate days, or by rail
to New Smyrna, and thence by boat as above (see p. 209).
Indian River is in many respects the most remarkable and
interesting watercourse in Florida. Connected through in-
lets with the Atlantic Ocean, and more or less affected by its
tides, it retains many of the characteristics of a freshwater
stream, owing to the numerous tributaries that join it from
the great natural reservoirs of the mainland.
From its head, twelve miles north of Titusville, to its
southern extremity at Jupiter Inlet, Indian River is one hun-
dred and forty-two miles long, and so straight that water and
sky seem to meet, as at sea,wiien one looks north or south
along the river. The width varies from one hundred feet in
the Narrows, to three miles or more at the widest part. The
head of the river is divided opposite Cape Canaveral by a
broad tract called Merritt's Island. The eastern branch is
Banana River, and this again has a branch called Banana
Creek, dividing the Island opposite Titusville (see map of
Brevard County). Banana River has five to six feet of
water ; Banana Creek two to three feet. Indian River com-
municates with the sea through two inlets, namely, Indian
River Inlet, sixty miles south of Cape Canaveral, and JuiDiter
Inlet at its soiithern end. The first named has about four
and one-half feet at high water, and the other about five
feet.
Cape Canaveral (pronounced Can-av'-eral) is a peculiar sharjo
outstanding angle of the coast, projecting about eight miles
beyond the general trend of the beach. To the north and
south the coast line is south-southeast. A glance at the
map immediately suggests the idea that Merritt's Island
was once the cape, and that slow geological upheaval raised
it to its present altitude, while the present cape was thrown
up by the sea to take its place as a breakwater. The general
outlines are almost ielentical. The cape is a triangular tract
of bare sea sand, partially covered with scnib, desolate be-
THE INDIAN RIVER. 211
Yond expression, but a fine oceau view and an outlook over
the strange landward prospect may be obtained from the
tower. The mainland is largely shut off by the compara-
tively high ridges of Merritt's Island, but the whole course
of Banana Eiver can be followed.
The lighthouse tower stands on the northeast pitch of the
cape, in latitude 28" 27' 37" N., Long. 80° 31' 31" W. The
tower is 139 feet high, and shows a white flash light of the
first order every sixty seconds, visible 17| nautical miles.
The tower is painted black and white in horizontal bands.
A light was first established here in 1847, and the old tower
still remains as a landuiark. The present tower was built
in 1868. An automatic whistling buoy is anchored 6f miles
off the cape to warn vessels of dangerous outlying shoals
when the light cannot be seen. In 1887 the sea encroached
129 feet on the tower, and Congress made an approj)riation
to constnict a revetment for its protection.
At the outbreak of the Civil War the lightkeeper, Captain
Burnham, who had been long in the service of the Govern-
ment, learned that a project was on foot to seize and destroy
the costly Fresnel lantern and its machinery. Burnham was
in symixithy with the cause of secession, but he was never-
theless faithful to his trust, and baffled all attempts of the
Confederates to capture the lantern and its belongings.
Six miles north of the cape are the remains of an old re-
doubt, evidently the work of Europeans. It is not improb-
able that this may have been the fort erected by the sur-
vivors of Eibaut's expedition who refused to surrender to the
Spaniards at Matanzas (see p. 178).
The sea-coast from Mosquito Inlet to False Cape is formed
by the narrow strips of land that sepai'ate the inland l.i-
goons from the ocean, everywhere is a stretch of beach backed
by scrub and a forest of pines with an occasional hammock
island or shell mound. The three-fathom line is in some
places only a third of a mile from the beach. Between
False Cape and Cape Canaveral there are dangerous outlying
shoals, witli a good depth near the beach.
The boats of the Indian River Steamboat Company leave
Titusville every morning for Jupiter and intermediate land-
212 THE INDIAN RIVER.
ings. The conditions of navigation are such and the length
of the trip so great that it cannot be accomplislied wholly by
daylight, but the boats are commodious and well equipped
in all respects, with comfortable state-rooms and an excel-
lent table.
The whole trip is interesting to the tourist for its novelty.
On the one hand is a narrow strip of beach across which, at
intervals, one may see the masts of southward bound steam-
ers, keei^ing close in shore to avoid the Gulf Stream ; on the
other are occasional settlements with the unbroken forest
between, and beyond them a wilderness that has never yet
been thoroughly explored. On the broad reaches of the
river are countless flocks of ducks and geese, and overhead
are hundreds of unfamiliar birds. The navigation of the
narrows is always entertaining. The boats are built with
special reference to short turns, and as they push their way
through the crooked channels, the mangi-oves brush along
the guards, and some new surprise awaits the spectator at
every turn. The water is usually highly ijhosphorescent at
night, and wonderful displays of natui-e's fireworks may be
seen as the boat passes through flocks of ducks or over
schools of mullet and the other fish with which these waters
abound. At times the surface, for a hundred feet or more
on either side of the bow, is crossed and recrossed by an in-
tricate embroidery pattern traced in lines of soft yet bril-
liant light.
The last part of the trip to the southward is necessarily
performed by night, but on the return trip this part of the
journey is made by daylight, so that, going or returning,
there is an opportunity to see the whole river.
The western shore is the home of the famous Indian
Eiver orange, and in the vicinity of the settlements cul-
tivated groves have rejjlaced the dense natural growth. In ■
most cases a screen of palmettos or other forest trees has
been left to protect the oranges from the easterly winds,
which, coming direct from the ocean, are often injurious.
For this reason few groves are to be seen from passing
steamers, but during the shipping season the boats are heav-
ily freighted with crates of the finest fri;it.
THE INDIAN RIVER-TITUSVILLE. 213
Farther south pineapples become an impoiiant item of
commerce, and the bluffs near Eden are covered with acres of
this curious plant. One of the most enjoyable features of the
trip is the gradual change noted in the vegetation, which as-
sumes more and more the subtropical characteristics until
at Jupiter a fine sjDecimen of the cocoa-palm is seen in full
bearing.
91. Titusville, Brevard County.
Popnlation, 1,000.— Lat. 28=- 35' N.— Long. 80° 40' W.
Hotels.— /ndian River Hotel, $1.50 to $2.50 a day, $6 to $10 a week.— GVand
View Hotel, same rates.
Railroad. — Indian River Division J., T. & K. W. system to Enterprise
Junction. For stations and distances see pp. 11 and 97.
Steamboats. — The Indian River Steamboat Company. Daily boats to
Jupiter. Boats on alternate days to Daytona and intermediate landings.
tiaddle-horses, 25c. an hour, $2 a day.
Rowboats, 25c. an hour, $2 a day. Sailboats, $2 to $10 a day.
Guides, $1 to $5 a day.
Titusville is the county town, with a bank, stores, and con-
siderable business interests. It affords a good head-quarters
for tourists or sportsmen desiring to engage boats for long
hunting and fishing expeditions. In the immediate vicin-
ity are Cape Canaveral and the creeks, rivers, and ponds in-
tersecting Merritt's Island, the beaches, the Haulover Canal,
with the Dummitt orange grove, and the shores of Indian
River in either direction.
Titusville was formerly called Sand Point. It was founded
by one Colonel Titus, a leader in the Kansas Crusade of 1855
-1856, and a pioneer in this region, who was for many years
the autocrat of the settlement.
214: ROCKLEDGE.
92. Rockledge, Brevard County.
Population. 300.— Lat. 23" IS' N.— Long;. 80° 38' W.
Hotels.— /Hd /aw nicer llatfl. $4 a Any.— Sew Rockledrje, $2..50 a day.— Tro/i-
cal House, $3 a day. Good boa. d at S12 a week.
Churches, Episcopal, Methodist, aud Pre8b3-terian.
Guide, C. E. Coolc. Special tennH must be made.
Rowboats, $2.50 a day. Sailboats, $4 a day.
■The appropriateness of the name Eockledge is evident as
soon as the steamer draws near the shore. For three or four
miles an abrupt dyke of coralline rock rises along the water-
side to a height of from six to twelve feet. Along the crest
of the ridge, sheltered from the ocean winds by a fine growth
of palms and live oaks, is the town of Rockledge, with nu-
merous handsome houses, many of them designed for the
winter residences of Northern visitors, several good hotels,
and a general air of comfort and prosperity that cannot fail
to prove attractive. An excellent roadway, suitable for
pleasure driving, extends for several miles along the water-
side.
The river is here about a mile and a half wide, the oppo-
site shore being the southern point of Merritt's Island. Be-
yond this is the wide Banana River, separated from the
ocean by a narrow strip of sandy beach. The river in both
directions offers numerous attractions for hunters, fishermen,
and picnic parties.
Three miles west of Rockledge is Lake Poinsett, to the
shores of which there is a practicable road. Boats are some-
times hauled across. The fishing in the lake is said to be
exceptionally good, and game of all kinds is to be found
along the borders of the savannahs.
MELBOURNE. 215
93. Melbourne, Brevard County.
Popnlatiou, 200.— Lat. 28° 5' N.— Long. SO" 30' W.
Hotels. — Carleton, Goode House, Idleaild Cottage, Riverside, $1.50 to $2 a day,
$7 and upward by the week.
Steamboats.—" Indian Kiver Steamboat Co., daily, north to Titusville, south to
Jupiter.
Churches. — Episcopal, Methodist, Presbyterian.
At this point the River is two miles across and the penin-
sula half a mile wide, with a tramway to the ocean beach,
where are facilities for bathing. The trip across the river
is made by steam ferry or by small boats, and is the favorite
short excursion for visitors. Not far distant is the Govern-
ment House of Refuge provided for the relief of shipwrecked
mariners.
There are no roads suitable for driving in this neighbor-
hood. All locomotion must needs be effected on foot or by
water. The mouth of Banana River is about six miles north
of Melbourne. The town of Tropic, with a hotel where
meals or lodging may be had, is on the point between the
two rivers. It is an all-day excursion by steam launch to
Canaveral near the head of Banana River. A difficult trail
leads westward about seven miles through hammocks and
swamps to Lake Washington, one of the sources of the St.
John's River. All kinds of game are to be found in the
vicinity of Melbourne. There are no professional guides,
but it is always possible to secure the services of a hunter
familiar with the region. Special bargains are made accord-
ing to services required.
216 JUPITER INLET.
94. Jupiter Inlet, Dade County.
Lat. 2e,° 50' 54" N.— Long. 80" 4' 48" W.
Hotel. — T/ie (Jhattahimr.hec (a lar<.'e river steamboat moored to the wharf and
adapted to this use ), %'A a day.
Steamlioats. — Indian Kiver Steamboat Company, daily to Titusville.
Railroad. — .Jupiter <fk Lake Worth Railroad, 8 miles south to Juno.
Soo<s.— Naphtha launch and rowboats for hire at hotel at reasonable rates.
Jupiter Inlet marks the southern extremity of the long
series of rivers or lagoons that skirt the coast of Florida in
an almost uubroken chain. The opening is about one-eighth
of a mile wide with three feet depth at mean low water. The
tide runs swiftly at the ebb and flow, fresh or salt water pre-
jDonderating according to the stage of the water in the ever-
glades and the considerable streams that here make down
from the interior. The inlet widens just within the beach,
and there is good and secure anchorage for small vessels in-
side the north jioint.
The large steamboat that does excellent duty as a hotel is
moored about a mile from the inlet, and nearly opposite the
mouth of Jupiter Sound, as the lower reach of the river is
called. From the upper deck there is a good view of the in-
let and the neighboring waters.
No one capable of mounting the stairs should fail to cross
over to the lighthouse and enjoy the imjiressive view of
ocean, river, forest, and prairie that spreads map-like to the
horizon in all directions.
The tower stands on a high bluff west of the mouth of the
sound, it is 94 feet high from base to centre of lantern. The
total height above the sea-level is 146 feet. The light is of
the first order, showing a fixed white light varied by a white
flash every ninety seconds. It is visible 20 miles. Cape
Canaveral, 147 miles nearly north, and the lighthouse on
Fowey Rocks, 94 miles nearly south, are the nearest neigh-
bors of this lonely tower, which was established here in 1860
and save during the four years of civil war has not failed.
From the lantern gallery one may see, in clear weather,
more than forty miles up and down the coast, and across the
intervening forest nearly to the shores of Lake Okeecho-
bee. To the northward may be traced the courses of Ju-
piter Sound, North Fork, and Northwest Fork, while to the
JUPITER INLET. 217
southward are Southwest Fork, and Lake Worth Creek.
All these streams are easily navigable for many miles, are
literally alive with fish, and receive numerous tributaries
which can be ascended in canoes or small boats into the
heart of the wilderness. Lake Worth Creek is navigable
with a short carry to the lake, but it is almost impossible to
find the right channel without a guide. As a rule all the
streams in this region become very crooked near their
sources, and the various channels are so often involved that
the explorer should not forget to mark the different openings
wherever the current fails to indicate the true course.
There is no better fishing on the coast than is found at
Jupiter Inlet. Bluefish, bass, pompano, cavaille, runners,
ladyfish, sheepshead, and other varieties are taken with the
rod. Tar^jon are found here, but will rarely take bait be-
fore May or June. Sharks abound at the inlet and may
be caught with suitable tackle in the channel or from the
steamboat wharf. Panthers and wild cats still prowl about
the settlement at night, and bears frequent the hammocks and
islands along the water-courses. Deer and turkeys are
pretty well hunted off by the Indians, who range as far north
as this from their haunts in the everglades, but with the aid
of guides good sport may be had "by hunters who are not
afraid of hard work.
The lighthouse settlement includes a signal station, with
a complete outfit of instruments. It is the duty of the ser-
geant in charge to transmit to Washington daily weather re-
ports, and as this station is the most southerly on the Atlan-
tic coast his warnings of cyclonic storms are often of great
importance. He also signals passing vessels and reports
them for the benefit of merchants. A Government telegraph
line runs from this point to Titusville, so that there is easy
communication with the North.
Jupiter may be regarded as the northern limit of the cocoa
palm. A fine large tree in full bearing stands at the foot of
the bluff below the lighthouse. A few miles farther north,
on the east side of Jupiter Sound, there is a thriving group
of young trees, but north of this latitude their existence is
somewhat precarious.
218 JUPITER INLET.
Whence Jvii^iter derived its name is not certainly known.
It was occupied as a militaiy post dui-ing the Indian war,
and two considerable engagements occurred, one on " Juj^iter
Creek," on January 15, 1838, and the other near the inlet,
on Januaiy 24tli of the same year. A large number of Ind-
ians were captured at that time by the United States forces.
Aside from the lightkeepers' families, the life-saving crew,
and the employees about the hotel and wharf, few inhabi-
tants are discoverable. There is, however, a S2)arse popula-
tion in the vicinity, and now and then an Indian or a hunter
finds his way to the landing with game or in search of sup-
plies.
The manatee or sea-cow is still found in this vicinity,
though he must be regarded as nearly extinct. Inasmuch
as this curious amphibian is perfectly harmless, and since his
carcass is neither useful nor ornamental, it is hoped that
persons with firearms will deny themselves the pleasure of
shedding his blood. Pelicans, too, are far more interesting
alive than dead. They readily become quite tame if not
molested, and, since they cannot be regarded as game
birds, all true s^jortsmen should oppose their indiscrimi-
nate slaughter.
An expedition in a small boat after dark is very enjoyable,
and often exciting, from the multitudes of fish that dash
against the boat, and sometimes leaj) over or into it in frantic
eftbrts to escape from their pursuers. A lantern shown at a
favorable moment will sometimes bring mullet flying into
the boat by dozens.
It is interesting to stand on a lofty observatory after night-
fall and watch the revolving rays of the lighthouse as
they touch different points of sea and shore, here penetrat-
ing a dark nook among the mangroves and there lighting
up a stretch of beach, with white breakers on the bar. With
a powerful field-glass one may see strange sights as the rays
search out bird, beast, or fish, under the fancied security of
darkness.
Except in very calm weather small boats should not go
outside the inlet. The tide sets outward furiously, and no
one not perfectly familiar with the management of boats
JUPITER INLET. 219
sbould ventiu'e near the narrow channel. The outer breakers
are very deceptive. Often when tliey look quite harmless
from the beach they will be found very formidable when
near at hand. To be upset or swamped with the tide run-
ning ebb is a perilous mishap.
One mile south of the inlet is the United States Life Sav-
ing Station. The walk to it is not difficult, either along the
beach or across the point. In either case turn to the left
after leaving the wharf and follow the road i^ast the post-
office. Thence a foot-path leads along the sliore of the in-
let, sometimes at the waterside, and sometimes among the
trees, to the ocean beach, where the station will be seen about
one mile to the right. If the old trail to Lake Worth be
followed it will be found to lead southward through a low
growth of scrub and cedars. A walk of twenty minutes will
bring the station in sight to the eastward. A trail has been
cleared to the road nearly opposite the station.
There is no danger of losing one's bearings anywhere be-
tween the railroad and the ocean, for the sound of the surf
is a sure guide, and both beach and raih'oad track lead
directly to the hotel. The Life Saving Station was estab-
lished in 1885. Seven men are continually on duty, and,
though no wrecks have occurred since the house was built,
coasting craft often come to grief at the inlet and require as-
sistance. There are weekly drills in all the operations of the
■wrecking service, launching the boat through the surf, gun-
practice., signalling, etc. It is always intei'esting to witness
these exercises, often involving skilled handling of the life-
boat in heavy rollers.
The bea^h on either side of the inlet is strewn with sun-
cured sponges, sea-beans, cocoanuts, and a hundred strange
forms of animal and vegetable life swept up from the coral
reefs by the Gulf Stream, whose dark waters may often be
seen a few miles off shore. Mangroves, aloes, gum alimbo,
sea-grapes, and here and there a cocoa palm, are among the
wild growths that are found along these beaches and wooded
knolls. Here the mangrove assumes its subtropical vigor,
and it may afford amusement to athletes to penetrate a man-
grove swamp by walking and climbing from root to root for
220 JUPITER INLET.
a few hundred yards. Along the shore of the bight that
makes in to tlie south of the inlet sand has drifted among
the mangroves, and there is good walking in all directions.
It is worth a visit to study close at hand the pictui'esque
and uncanny shapes assumed by-this strange tree that is con-
stantly encroaching on the sea, filling up inlets and making
islands that eventually become a part of the continent.
The outer ocean beach, or ijeninsula, from Cape Canaveral
southward, varies in width from a few hundred feet to a mile
or more. Sometimes it is barren and sometimes covered
with a fine forest gi'owth of jsine or hardwood. At intervals
diflferent inlets open or close according to some law depend-
ent on shifting currents, and on the amount of rainfall in
the interior'. At different times within the jiresent century
inlets have existed at Indian River Inlet, St. Lucie Rocks,
and Gilbert's Bar, but for several years they have all been
closed. During the summer of 1889 Indian River Inlet re-
opened and a channel formed with three feet of water at low
tide, Jupiter Inlet closing at about the same time.
At intervals along the beach are houses of refuge, estab-
lished by the United States Government for the relief of
shipwrecked mariners. These differ from life-saving stations
in that no full crew is permanently on duty. A keejjer
is always at hand, and an ample supply of provisions
is kept in store. Each station has a lifeboat, which in
case of need can be manned by a volunteer crew. On the
Indian River beach there are such houses at Chester Shoal,
one mile and a half north of False Cape ; at Cajje Malabar ;
at Bethel Creek, ten miles north of Indian River Inlet ; at a
point just south of Indian River Inlet, and at Gilbert's Bar.
At intervals of a mile along the beach signboards are set up
giving the distance and direction of the nearest house of re-
fuge. Regular life-sa\dng stations are hardly necessary along
this beach, as vessels usually take the ground in such a way
that with the exercise of ordinary seamanship no lives need
be lost. Food and drink, however, are not readily to be
found, and the houses of refuge often afford needed relief.
The following is a list of landings and distances on the
Indian River. The steamboats touch only on signal at
JUPITER INLET. 221
many of the places named. W. indicates the west bank or
mainland. Distances going south on the right, north on
the left.
154 Titosville, W 0
142 Hardeeville, W 12
140 Courtney (Merritt's Island) 14
139 Faber's, W 15
137 Sharp's (Merritt's Island) IT
136 City Point, W 18
132 Merritt (Merritt's Island) 22
130 Cocoa, W 24
129 Haidee's, W 25
128 Rockledge, W 2G
126 Paxton's, W ... 28
125 Magriidei's 29
123 Georgiana (Merritt's Island) 31
121 Whitfield (Merritt's Island) 83
117 Brantley (Meiritt's Island) 37
112 Tropic (Merritt's Island) 42
104 Eau Gallie, W 50
103 Melbourne, W 51
96 Tillman, W 58
94 Malabar, W 60
86 . . . Miceo, W 68
81 Sebastian, W 73
74 O. chid (Peninsula) 80
71 Enos (Peninsula) 83
68 Narrows (Peninsula) 86
48 St. Lucie. W 106
45 FortPieice, W 119
38 Aukona, W 116
31 Eden, W 123
24 Waveland, W 130
0 Jupiter, W 154
95. Jupiter Inlet to Lake Worth.
By Jupiter & Lake Worth Railway, 8 miles (30 minutes). By boat, 10 miles
f.om inlet to inlet.
The trip from Jupiter to Lake Worth is now accomi^lished
in a few minutes. Until the season of 1889-90 it was a tedi-
ous ride of three hours over a heavy road, where the horses
could rarely move faster than a walk. The ocean beach in
this vicinity is not available for driving. A good walker
may cover the distance between the inlets in three hours,
but the sand is too heavy for enjoyable walking.
The little railroad, with its galaxy of mythological names,
IJrudently takes shelter behind the beach ridge throughout its
course. Here and there through gaps in the ridge glimj^ses
are caught of an emerald sea and snowy breakers. On
the landward "side there i»! but little to break the monotony
222 jupu'ER inlet— lake worth.
of saw palmetto, and beach scrub. The intermediate sta-
tions of Venus and Mars passed, Little Lake Worth is pres-
ently seen on the left, a small, shallow pond, connected
with the larger lake by a narrow channel. The headwaters
of Lake Worth Creek are about one mile to the westward,
navigable for canoes and ojieniug here and there into small
lakes, but largely filled with saw-grass and lily-pads, and
with nothing to distinguish the main channel from count-
less branches.
The outside trip is highly enjoyable in fine weather. It
should not, however, be undertaken save under favorable
conditions of wind and tide, as the inlets are very treacher-
ous by reason of shifting sand and swift currents. With a
fair wind the round trip may easily be made in a day in a
sailboat, but the chances of being becalmed must always be
considered.
100. Lake Worth, Dade County.
By boat and rail from Titnsville, 162 miles.
Hotels. — Coconnut Grove House, Palm Beach, $2.50 a day, $10 a week. — Oak-
lawn House, Oaklavvn, $2 to $2.50 a day, $10 to $12 a \\ee]i..— Hotel Lake Worth,
$3 a day.
Like the more extensive lagoons to the northward. Lake
Worth is a long, narrow body of water, separated from the
sea by a ridge of hammock, sand, and savannah, and with a
shallow inlet through which the ocean tides ebb and flow.
Beyond this lake to the southward there are no regular
lines of travel. The next post-office in that direction is on
Biscayne Bay, fifty miles distant, and the mail is carried
once a week by a messenger, who walks the beach with the
pouch on his back, and navigates the intervening inlets and
creeks in canoes.
Lake Worth, however, has proved very attractive to North-
ern residents. The water side is lined for three miles or
more with tasteful cottages and costly mansions, where
Northerners who dread a severe winter may lead an almost
ideal existence.
The lake is twenty-two miles long, with an average width
of about one mile, and a channel depth of from six to twelv6
LAKE WORTH. 223
feet. The inlet lias about five feet of water at low tide.
The temperature of Lake Worth is largely influenced by the
Gulf Stream, which runs close in shore at this point, the
most easterly of Florida, and here the influence of the trade
winds makes itself felt in equalizing the climatic conditions.
The normal winter temperature is about 7i>°, falling to 50°
or 60° under the influence of "northers."
In its modern aspect Lake Worth dates back only to 1875,
but the rich hammocks along the shores were evidently un-
der civilized cultivation centuries ago. No record is known
to exist of a European settlement, but the existence of canals
and ruins points unmistakably to a forgotten period, prob-
ably of Spanish occuj^ancy.
The favored garden region of the lake is along its eastern
shore, with the heavily wooded peninsula to serve as protec-
tion from ocean gales, and a marvelloiisly jiroductive soil to
foster the growth of fruits, flowers, and vegetables.
All kinds of sea-fish abound in the lake ; bluefish, sea-
trout, pompano, Spanish mackerel, barracuda, tarpon, and
the multitudinous mullet are caught, or *' grained," accord-
ing to their size and habits. Government surveys have been
jnished only about twelve miles to the westward. The
wilderness, speedily merging into the everglades, begins al-
most with the lake shore. Beyond the ridge that bounds
the view to the westward is a chain of fresh-water lakes, some
twelve feet higher than the sea level ; then comes the pine
forest, and then the "glades." Large game is to be found
throughout this region. Guides are almost indispensable for
successful hunting.
In January, 1879, the misfortune of the Spanish bark
Providencia proved a god-send to Lake Worth. She was
cast away on the coast, and her cargo of 20,000 cocoanuts
distributed itself impartially for miles up and down the
beach. Many thousands of the nuts were gathered and
planted (laid on the ground, that is) in rows, in circles,
singly, and in groups, with the result that now the cocoa
palm lifts its graceful fronds above every roof, lines walks
and avenues, and lends a tropical aspect to the whole settle-
ment.
224 LAKE WORTH.
A natui'al sea-wall is formed along the sliore hj the under-
lying coralline rock, and some of the more wealthy residents,
not satisfied with this, have added an artificial wall. No
fences interrui^t the pedestrian along this charming water-
side. A smooth walk, shaded and, for the most part, well-
kept, tempts to extended excursions, and leads at intervals
through i^rivate grounds that are marvels of beauty. Olean-
ders and jioncianas here are trees twenty or thirty feet high,
gigantic cacti stand like sentinels on the lawns ; the hibis-
cus, red, white, and yellow, lavishes its blossoms in every
garden, and mangoes, guavas, limes, lemons, oranges, figs,
dates, bananas, and pineapples grow wherever they are per-
mitted to take root. The west shore is best adapted for
pineajiples, and already the shipments amount to a consid-
erable item in the annual returns.
From nearly every house a walk or trail leads across the
peninsula to the ocean beach, where a magnificent surf comes
rushing in warm from the Gulf Stream, and laden with
shells and marine curiosities that tempt collectors to wander
for miles along the sands in search of sea-fans, fragments of
coral, Portuguese-men-of-war, sponges, sea-beans, echinse,
and countless other waifs that one may often he at a loss to
name.
South-bound steamers keep close along the beach to avoid
the current that rushes northward at the rate of ionv or five
miles an hour a little farther oflf shore. Rarely a day passes
that several of these fine vessels are not seen, while out in
the stream northward-bound craft are speeding in the opjDO-
site direction with wind and tide in their favor.
After an easterly gale the beach is sure to be particularly
interesting, since the accumulation of curiosities and general
wreckage is largely increased.
The highest point on the peninsula is sixty-five feet above
the sea level. The land rises somewhat near the lake, and
again into a wide ridge near the ocean ; between these is a
low and naturally marshy tract, which has been lai'gely
drained and utilized for the cultivation of vegetables.
Strangers should not shoot alligators near the cultivated
tracts, as some of them are half tame, and are preserved by
LAKE WORTH. 225
the owners of the land. Elsewhere shooting is allowable.
Deer are still found on the peninsula ; rabbits and various
game birds abound, and there is a chance for a wildcat in
the denser cover. There are five principal landings and nu-
merous i^rivate landings, where the small steamers that ply
on the lake stop on signal.
At Juno, the terminus of the railroad, passengers board
one of the steamers which presently starts down the
lake.
About one mile south, beyond a low point, is the haulover
or carry, where canoes may be hauled across one-half mile
to a small pond, the source of Lake Worth Creek, navigable
for small boats to Jupiter.
Pelican Island is passed on the right. Formerly this was
the resort of countless birds; "a roost," as it was locally
called. Now it is a most attractive place, with fine live oaks,
a handsome house, and well-cared-for grounds. It is, in
fact, an exceptionally rich tract, guano deposits of former
years adding greatly to its fertility.
Oak Lawn (P.O.), six miles from Juno, with its hotel, is
on the west side of the lake, a fine bluff crowned with trees
rising from the waterside. It is nearly opi)osite the inlet,
and the fishing here is probably as good as anywhere on the
lake, while fine shooting is to be found within easy walking
distance in any direction along shore, or among the savan-
nahs and woods to the westward.
Lake Worth (P.O.), eight miles from Juno, is pleasantly
situated about one mile south of the inlet. Here begins the
continuous line of houses that stretches along the eastern
shore. Prominent among these are the residences of Charles
I. Cragin, of Philadelphia, Mrs. F. Lane, of New York, and
E. K. McCormick, of Denver, all of which are remarkable
for the beauty of their surroundings. In general the pro-
prietors are glad to have visitors enjoy their gi-ounds, but
permission should of course be asked if it is desired to in-
spect the immediate vicinity of the houses.
Palm Beach (P.O.), eight and one-half miles from Juno,
is fairly embowered in cocoa palms. The hotel especially
has around it a large number of fine specimens, with a large
226 LAKE WORTH.
royal i^ionceana, "whistling trees," hung full of curious
pods, and numerous other curiosities in plant life. There is
a good country store a short distance north of the hotel, and
charming walks, either to the Ijeach, where there is a bath-
house (key at the hotel), or along the lake shore in either
direction.
Figulus (P.O.), eleven miles from Juno, is on the east
shore of the lake, and Hypoluxo (P.O.), sixteen miles from
Juno, occupies an island, the southern end of which extends
to within about one mile of the foot of the lake, where there
is a "haulover" to the ocean beach, the small creek that
reaches a short distance to the southward being imjiractica-
ble even for canoes.
101. The Sea-coast South of Lake Worth.
From Lake Worth Inlet south for thirty miles to Hillsboro
Inlet the beach is unbroken. About half-way, however, is
the Orange Grove house of refuge, where shelter, food,
and water may be olitained. Five miles south of this the
headwaters of Hillsboro River unite a few hundred yards
from the beach, forming a little lake about three feet deep.
One-half mile farther south is Lake Wyman, four to five feet
deep, and with a connecting channel navigable for small
boats to Lake Boca Eat one and the Hillsboro River.
At the inlet is a branch stream from the southward that
closely follows the beach for three miles, ending in a shallow
lake.
Eight miles south of Hillsboro Inlet is the Fort Lauderdale
house of refuge, to the westward of which ^ about one-half
mile, the headwaters of New River and its tributaries offer
inland passage for small boats.
New River Inlet is fifteen miles south of Hillsboro Inlet,
the river so-called being a narrow lagoon, about five miles
long, separated from the sea by a low ridge of sand and divid-
ing at the head into an infinite number of tributaries and
lakes with a depth of water varying from three to ten feet
in the channels. The upper reaches of the river are very
LAKE WORTH. 227
wild and beautiful. At this writing (1890) there are no per-
manent settlers, save Indians whose cainps can hardly be
considered permanent. Two miles south of the house of
refuge is a conspicuous group of cocoa palms on the
beach.
Eight miles south of New Eiver Inlet is a " haulover,"
where a lake known as Dumfounding Bay approaches within
one-quarter of a mile of the beach. Thence to the head-
waters of Biscayne Bay, about two miles, navigation is com-
paratively easy for small boats, though the channel is very
crooked. Biscayne Bay house of refuge is about sixteen
miles south of New Eiver Inlet and eight miles north of
Norris Cut the most northerly entrance to Biscayne
Bay.
From Lake Worth to Norris Cut the beach offers but
unsatisfactory foothold for man or beast. For near fifty
miles it is uninhabited, drinkable water is very scarce, and
there is little to attract the explorer except the perpetual
beauty of the ocean and the navigable inland waters con-
nected with Hillsboro and New River Inlets.
A company of speculators a few years since planted an en-
ormous number of cocoanuts along this beach with a view to
the sale of building lots. The trees have been left to caro
for themselves, but many of them have grown, and it is quite
possible that in a few years they will materially change the
aspect of the coast. For Biscayne Bay, the Florida Eeef,
etc., see p. 310.
The Gulf Coast.
From St. Mark's on the noitli to Cape Sable, the southern
extremity of the i)eninsiila, is a stretch of more than four
hundred miles. At Tampa Bay, Charlotte Harbor, and San
Carlos Bay, the outlying reefs and shallows open in deep
channels, affording entrance for large sea-going craft ; else-
where the underlying rock of the peninsula slopes so gradu-
ally gulf ward that the " ten-fathom curve," as laid down on
the charts, is often out of sight of land. Although almost
everywhere there are scattered lines of keys and reefs close
along shore, there is nothing that resembles the great la-
goons of the east coast. Small vessels of shallow draft can
pass inside the keys and find a haven at the mouths of many
of the rivers, but even these must give a wide berth to count-
less oyster bars and rocky reefs known only to the native
pilots.
Between Tarpon Springs and Punta Rassa, a distance of
about one hundred and twenty-five miles, the coast is com-
paratively high, wooded bluffs rising from the water's edge.
Elsewhere, with few exceptions, the bluffs and high ham-
mocks are several miles inland, and the coast mainly con-
sists of mangrove islands.
From St. Mark's to Cedar Key there is hardly a settlement
within ten miles of the sea, and from Cedar Key southward
again there are other long reaches of uninhabited coast. To
the cruiser who is provided with a suitable craft this region
offers endless opportunities for sport on land and water, both
of which yield abundant supplies for his larder, while his
fresh-water tanks can be replenished at any time by ascend-
ing one of the numerous rivers that here find an outlet.
Some of these streams afford access to hammocks where the
game has not yet been thinned out by Northern gunners.
In climate the Gulf coast is somewhat more equable than
that of the Atlantic. Raw easterly winds are unknown, and
westerly winds, blowing across the very fountain-head of the
Gulf Stream, are necessarily tempered by its i^erennial
warmth.
THE GULP COAST— CEDAR KEY. 229
Owing to the character of the shore, long coastwise lines
of railway are impracticable. The great railway systems
stop when they reach tide-water, the sole exception being the
Orange Belt, which follows the coast for a few miles south
of Tarpon Springs. Small steamers, generally well adapted
for the work that is required of them, jily between all points
where there are comfortable accommodations for tourists.
Observations of the United States Signal Service since
November, 1879, give the following as the average mean
temjierature at Cedar Key: Spring, 70.3° ; summer, 81.7°;
autumn, 72.24° ; winter, 60.1°. The average number of fair
days during the winter and early spring months is as follows :
November, 24.2; December, 25.1; January, 23.8; Febru-
ary, 23.2 ; March, 27 ; April, 26, The mean relative humid-
ity for the same months averages for November, 77.9 per
cent.; December, 81.2 jier cent.; January, 81.4 per cent.;
February, 75.1 per cent.; March, 70.7 per cent.; April, 69.4
per cent. The earliest "killing frosts" of which the Service
has record were December 22, 1880, December 17, 1882, De-
cember 16, 1883, November 25, 1884.
110. Fernandina to Cedar Key.
By Florida Central & Peninsula Railroad, 157 miles (9 hours 50 min.). The
line crosses Nassau, Duval, Bradford, Alachua, and Levy Counties in a south-
westerly direction. For maps see list of counties and consult table of contents.
In the context will be found tables of stations, distances, etc., within the respec-
tive counties. The best hotels on the route are at Gainesville. See Route 173,
111. Cedar Key, Levy County.
Population, 2,000.— Lat. 29° 12' N. ; Long. 83° W.
Hotels. —Suwannee Hotel, Bettelini House, Magnolia Hniise, $1.50 to $2.50 a
day.
Railroad.- F. C. & P., Cedar Key Division.
Suwannee River steamboats.
Good general stores.
Episcopal and Methodist churches.
The town of Cedar Key stands on Way Key, one of a
group of is4ands about four miles off the coast. It is a U.
S. port of entry with a good harbor for vessels drawing not
more than 12 feet. As the Gulf terminus of the railroad
"230 CEDAR KEY.
Avliich was finislied to this point in 18G1, and then known
as the Floridd Transit Railway, it at once became a i^lace
of some importance. Dnring the civil war, owing to its ex-
jwsed situation, it was at the mercy of the Federal gunboats,
and, since it bade fair to be a convenient harbor for blockade
runners, it early paid the penalty for a short- lived prosperity.
A descent was made upon it January 16, 1862, when, as
the Federals doubtless knew, there were seven vessels in the
harbor loaded with cotton and turpentine, waiting for favor-
able weather to run the blockade. These were burned with
their cargoes, as were also the wharves and rolling stock of
the railroad. At the time the place was guarded by a lieu-
tenant and 22 men of the Fourth Florida Regiment, but some
of the resident citizens begged that no resistance be made, as
it was obviously hopeless. The guard therefore attempted to
escape to the mainland, but most of them were captured
by the man-of-war's boats. After this, occasional visits by
U. S. cruisers sufficed to prevent the place from assuming
any importance.
Shortly after the close of hostilities, the terminal facilities
of the railroad were reconstructed, and very soon a consid-
erable trade develoijed in fish, oysters, and turtle. Tlie
abundance of red cedar in the vicinity led to the establish-
ment of pencil factories by Northern firms, which now em-
ploy a large number of hands. The coast to the southward
has occasional harbors, practicable for light-draft boats.
(S3e maps, j^p. 54, 13, 34, also descriptions in context.)
The Suwannee River enters the Gulf 15 miles north of Ce-
dar Key. It rises in Georgia, west of the great Okeefenokee
Swamp, about 120 miles from the coast. Its total length is
about 170 miles. After entering Florida it receives succes-
sively the Allaj^aha and Little River from the north, and the
Sante Fe from the east. The main stream is navigable for
large vessels as far as the mouth of the Santa Fe, and for
vessels drawing not more than six feet as far as Little River.
Of minor tributaries, the Suwannee has a score or more,
draining a water-shed a hundred miles wide, and all nav-
igable for canoes, at the ordinary height of water. The
bar at the mouth of the river has naturally only five feet of
CEDAR KEY. 23J
water, but has been somewhat improved by dredging. The
Suwannee has a rocky bed ahnost throughout its course,
having cut a channel for itself through the soft underlying
limestone. At its mouth the stream divides, two main chan-
nels inclosing Bradford's Island. Throughout the most of
its course the river passes throiagh a wild and beautiful
semi-tropical region, with excellent camping ground almost
auYwliere, fish and game in plenty, and fresii water always
at hand. Many fine springs are found along the banks ;
some of them hardly surpassed by the more famous ones
described elsewhere. The popular song, commonly known
by the name of this beautiful stream, but whose proper title
is " The Old Folks at Home," was written by Stephen Col-
lins Foster, author of " O Susanna " and many similar melo-
dies that have gained world-wide popularity. Mr. Foster
was born in Pittsburg in 1826, and died in New York in
1864.
A small Confederate steamer groimded at the mouth of
the Suwannee River and was captured by a boat from the U.
S. blockading schooner Fox, on December 20, 1863. Four
days afterward the British schooner Edwin attempted to run
the blockade with a cargo of lead and salt, and was also
taken by the Fox after some show of resistance, during
which the captain was wounded.
The Wakassassd River rises in Alachua County, and runs
southeasterly through a fine grazing country, feeding and
draining a succession of small lakes and ponds. Near the
mouth of the stream are evidences of Indian settlement and
cultivation. The stream is navigable for small steamers
to about fifteen miles from the Gulf, but the bar is shallow
and impassable save for light-draft boats. It enters the Gulf
12 miles west of Cedar Key. Its numerous branches flow
through, Gulf Hammock, a wild region full of game, and
easily accessible either from Otter Creek station on the rail-
road, or by boat from Cedar Key. (Hotel at Gulf Hammock. )
The Withlacoochee is the only river on the Gulf coast of Flor-
ida that, like the larger St. John's on the opposite side of the
peninsula, takes a northerly course. Itrises nearly in the same
latitude with the St. Johns, and after running a little east of it
232 CEDAR KEY.
for GO miles, turns to the westward and falls into tiie Gulf 20
miles S.E. of Cedar Key. It is a swift stream with rocky
bottom, high wooded, picturesque banks, and navigable to
Pemberton Ferry, where the J. T. & K. W. Ey. system
crosses it. About 18 miles from the mouth it receives Blue
Spring Eiver, navigable for launches to its source, and well
worth a visit. Route 183.
120. Jacksonville to Homosassa.
By Silver Springs, Ocala & Gulf Railroad, 176 miles ; (9 hours) ; Jacksonville
to Palatka. See Koute 40.
The main line of the Florida Southern Railway runs west-
ward from Palatka through a rolling country, often diversi-
fied with lakes and frequently passing, as at Interlaken and
McMeekin, within sight of beautiful residences and fine plan-
tations and orange groves. There is choice between two
routes to Ocala, namely at Hawthorne and Rochelle. At the
first-named junction a branch of the F. C. & P. railway nins
southward to Silver Spring and Ocala, crossing Orange
Lake on a long trestle, and passing at Citra through some of
the most remarkable orange-groves in the State. (See Route
111.) The other coiirse is to follow the main line to Ro-
chelle, where a branch of the Florida Southern Railway
diverges southward to Ocala, passing through a beautiful
country devoid of the almost universal undergrowth of pal-
metto scrub, and covered with a fine open forest of hard
woods through which one may ride, walk, or drive at will in
any direction. Changing to the Silver Springs, Ocala & Gulf
Railroad at Ocala, the direction is southwesterly through
a region remarkable for its rich j^hosphatc beds and beautiful
springs to the Gulf terminus at Homosassa. At Palatka and
Ocala, there are excellent hotels if the traveller wishes to
make the trip by short stages. The journey may be varied
by leaving the train at Palatka and ascending the Ocklawaha
River (Route 181) to Silver Springs, which is but a few min-
utes ride from Ocala. The journey by rail crosses Duval,
Clay, Putnam, Marion, and Citrus Counties, maps of which,
with descriptive context, stations, distances, etc., may be
found in alphabetical order, pp. 1 to 102 of this handbook.
HOMOSASSA. 233
121. Homosassa, Citrus County.
Lat. 28° 48' N., Long. 82° 40' W.
Hotel.— r/ie Homosassa Inn, $2.50 a day. Board, $1 to $1.50 a day.
Railroad. — Silver Springs, Ocala A Gulf Railroad.
Steamboats to the vVithlacoochee River and Gulf coast. Rowboats, 50c.
to 75c. a day ; with oarsmen, |1 to $1.50 a day. Hunters and guides, $2 a day.
"River of Fishes" is the modern translation of Homo-
sassa, though some of the early authorities on Florida say-
that it means "PejDper Eidge." It was certainly a favorite
resort of the native tribes in prehistoric times, as is abund-
antly proven by evidences of ancient cultivation, and by great
shell mounds along the water-side.
The land is low and level along the coast, very rich and fer-
tile, and largely underlaid with disintegrated limestone-rock.
It is covered with a remarkably dense hammock growth of
palms, wild orange, live oak, magnolia, and the ordinary hard
woods, in unusual profusion and luxuriance. The river, fed
by numerous fiue springs, is an arm of the sea rather than a
fresh-water stream, and is justly famed for its fine fishing,
while the adjacent islands and the mainland are amoiig the
best hunting grounds in Florida. Large tracts of land have
been acquired in this vicinity by a company of capitalists,
surveys have been made, avenues cut tlirough the hammock,
and every effort made to attract permanent settlers as well as
transient visitors. Probably there is no better or richer
soil in the State for most of the semi-tropical crops.
Before the civil war (1861 to 18C5) large sugar plantations
were under cultivation along the river, notably the one on
Tiger Tail Island, the property at that time of United
States Senator D. L. Yulee, who, with a wide knowledge of
Florida, selected this region as the best suited for the resid-
ence of a Southern gentleman. He was in active sympathy
with the secession movement in 1860-1861, and Homosassa
as well as Bayport, fifteen miles south, became harbors of
refuge for blockade runners of light draft after Cedar Key
had fallen into the hands of the Federals. The author is in-
debted to Captain C. T. Jenkins, of pomosassa, now (in
1890) nearly eighty years old, for the following account of
the events of the time, which, unimportant as comjoared
234 HOMOSASSA.
with the great militai v ojierations elsewhere, are now of in-
terest.
Crystal River, Homosassa, and Bayiiort were ganisoned
by small detachments of Confederates under Captain John
Chambers. At Bayport there were 25 men with one piece
of artillery. Only five families remained in the place, that
of Captain Jenkins being among them. In April, 18G3, an
expedition consisting of seven boats with howitzers came
down from Cedar Key and shelled the place, the little garri-
son responding so manfully that no permanent landing was
effected. In June Caj^tain Jenkins was captured and held
prisoner, for political as well as for military reasons, until
the conclusion of jjeace. In July, 1863, Bayport was again
shelled, and a large warehouse burned. Thence the expedi-
tion went to Homosassa, but Mr. Yulee and family had gone
to Ocala and only the house servants were left in charge.
The plantations on Tiger Tail Island were pillaged, and a
warehouse was burned at Chafie Landing, the greater part
of the damage being done by deserters and runaway negroes,
after the United States troops had withdrawn. Bayport was
again visited by a naval force in July, 1864, and again the de-
serters and runaway negroes followed, plundering after the
regular forces had left, and burning all unoccupied houses.
Captain Jenkins is particular to say that the navy had no
hand in the wholesale destruction of property, though they
doubtless committed excesses when not under the eye of
their officers. The fine, large sugar-house at Homosassa, be-
longing to Mr. Yulee, was burned through the carelessness
of cattlemen in June, 1869 — not, as has often been alleged by
United States troops. The old slave quarters are still stand-
ing in a good state of preservation, and are always an object
of curiosity to visitors.
Eixursions. — Within a few miles of the hotel, are many
pleasant walks over good roads and foot-paths. Some of
these lead through the hammock, as to Oltei- Creek; and the
Natural Bridge. The walk through the hammock is always
interesting. The creek is a sluggish, shallow stream, practic-
able even for row-boats only at high water. There are some
curious horizontally growing palms along the bank.
HOMOSASSA. 235
Arcadian Spring is easily reached by row-boat from the
hotel, and like the other wonderful springs of this region,
always presents some new and surprising feature under chang-
ing aspects of sky or season. This spring is about sixty feet
deep with a strong boiling action of the water that causes
the boat to slide shoreward, unless kept iu the middle of the
pool by constant rowing. Other similar springs exist in the
neighborhood, all of which should be visited by the lover of
the beautiful in nature, for each has something new for an
appreciative observer. ^
Crystal River with its springs is six miles north of Homo-
sassa ; it may be reached by land, the railroad passing near
the spring head, or by water through Salt River, a shallow
channel full of oyster bars, connecting with the Homosassa
three miles below the hotel. This excursion may well be
extended down Crystal River, skirting the Gulf within St.
Martin's Keys, into the Homosassa, and so back to the hotel.
The lower part of the river is most interesting, with, fine shell
mounds and islands, picturesque rock formations, some of
them worn, by the action of the sea and river, into strange
caverns and columns. Almost everywhere the rock forms
a natural sea-wall where vessels may make fast to the trees
as safely as to artificial wharf -posts.
'■23C> THE PINELLAS PENINSULA.
130. The Pinellas Peninsula, Hillsborough County.
Between Lat. 27" 35' and 28" 10' N., and on the meridian of 82° 40' W. '
Jacksonville to Pinellas Penin&ula.
All Rail Routes.
(1) By J., T. & K. W. Ry. to Sanfurd (125 miles), thence by Orange Be.t Ky.
to Tarpon Springs, 1203<j miles (running time, 10 hrs. 17 min.). There arc two
fast trains daily from Jacksonville to Sauford, but connections with the Orange
Be.t are not close in all cases. If it is desired to brealc tlie journey, good hot3!o
\fHl be found at Sauford. The Orange Belt Railway runs southwesterly from
Sauford, crossing Orange, Sumter, Pasco, and Hi'.lsborough Count'es. (For
description of those counties, maps, stations, distances, etc., see pp. 1 to 102.)
(2) By Florida Central A Peninsula Railway : From Jacksonville to Lacoo-
chee, thence by Orange Belt Railway as above, (1) 230 miles (running time about
10 hours 50 min.). Close connections cannot always be counted upon. If it is
desired to stop over night or for a shorter time, good hotels vrill be fou'jd at
Silver Springs and Oca'a. The F. C. & P. crosses Duval, Bradford, Alachua,
and Sumter Coimties. (For maps, lists of stations within the counties, dis-
tances, etc., consult pp. 1 to 102.)
To Pinellas Peninsula via the Ocklawaha.
From Jacksonville to Palatka by rail (see Route 35), thence by steamboat up
the St. John's and Ocklawaha Rivers to Silver Springs (Route 151), thence by rail
to Tarpon Springs via Orange Belt Ey. (see above), or to Port Tampa (see
below).
To Pinellas Peninsula via Tampa.
By rail to Port Tampa, 249 miles (9 hours 20 min.), steam ferry to St. Peters-
burg, 9 miles (1 hour). There are two fast trains daily by J., T. & K. Vv'. sys-
tem from Jacksonville, one leaving early in the morning and the other about
noon. The journey may be advantageously broken by stopping over night, or
ov.T a train, at Palatka, Saafo.d, Winter Park, Orlando, Kissimmee, Tampa,
or Port Tampa (for which places see Contents, p. x). On the best trains coaches
are run through direct to Port Tampa. (For county maps, stations, distances,
etc., see Duval, Clay, Putnam, St. John's, Volusia, Orange, Sumter, Pasco, and
Hillsborough Counties, alphabetically arranged in fii-st part of Handbook, pp.
2 to 102.)
Tami^a Bay is formed by the Pinellas Peninsula, wliicli sep-
arates it from the Gulf of Mexico on the west. (See map, p.
37.) It is about 30 miles long from the Anclote River on
the north to Pinellas Point, its southern extremity, and
nearly 14 miles wide measuring on an east and west line
near Anona. It narrows to 3 miles near Tarpon Springs,
where the isthmus is nearly severed by the Salt Lakes and
THE PINELLAS PENINSULA— TARPON SPRINGS. 237
Lake Butler, rcachiDg southward from the Anclote River
toward OJd Tampa Bay. The peninsula includes about one
hundred and eighty square miles of land, for the most part
high and well covered with pines, interspersed with oak
and other hard woods. The Gulf of Mexico on the west, the
broad waters of Tamjm Bay on the east, are exceptionally
favorable to an even temperature. It is in effect a lesser
Florida adjoining the main jjeninsula, but with the pecul-
iar climatic conditions somewhat intensified. No trust-
worthy thermometric or other averages are as yet available
for the peninsula, as it is but a very few years since it was a
wilderness with only a few scattered settlements. The near-
est station of the Weather Bureau is at Cedar Key (Route
111). The railroad was finished to St. Petersburg in 1889, and
already there are several thriving Mdnter resorts mainly along
the Gulf coast. It is remarkable that a region almost sur-
rounded by water should have an atmosphere drier than that
of Minnesota, yet such appears to be the fact, not only in
this particular locality, but along the whole Gulf coast of
Florida. Fish and game hung in the open air dry up and
harden without becoming oflfensive, and provisions for home
consumption are largely preserved in this way, the jiroduct
being similar to the " jerked meat "of Western Indian tribes.
131. Tarpou Springs, Hillsborough Couuty.
Population, 500.
Hotels. — Tarpon Springs Hotel, S4 a A&j.—The. Tropic, $2.50 a day.— Sev-
eral smaller hotels and boarding-houses.
Railroad. — The Grange Belt Railway (south to Pinellas Peninsula, Tampa,
etc.; north to Sanford, Palatka, Jacksonville, etc.).
Telegraph, express, money order offices. — Bank of Tarpon Springs. — Good
general stores.
Episcopal, Baptist, and Presbyterian churches.
S. D. Kendall, guide.
Tarpon Springs is among the most attractive of the resorts
on the Gulf coast. It lies near the mouth of Anclote River,
which here opens in a series of bayous and land-locked
harbors, hardly to be distinguished from the fresh-water
lakes that are found farther iidand. The village has a pecul-
iarly attractive appearance from the neat board sidewalks
238 TARPON SPRINGS.
that are laid along all the streets, and the number of pretty
cottages that have been erected by Northern visitors. It
stands uj^on one of the gentle eminences characteristic of
this region. The bayou containing the great spring that
gives the jjlace its name, lies to the westward. A land-
locked harbor, with a plank-walk and a white fence sur-
rounding it at the water's edge. The steep bluff is lined
with cottages, in the midst of luxuriant flower and fruit
gardens. Flights of steps lead down to the plank-walk at
intervals, and boats of all kinds are moored within reach or
stored under shelter, just inside the railing. The walk ex-
tends to the entrance of the bayou on either hand, a total
length of about one mile. It affords the most charming of
promenades, while tlie sheltered basin offers perfect facilities
for boating. Near the head of the bayou is the spring above
referred to, where a considerable voli;me of water boils up
through openings in the bottom, and near by is a sulphurreed
spring which the residents believe possesses valuable medi-
cinal properties. Launches and boats drawing three feet of
water can make their way in or out of the bayou into Anclote
River, and thence into the Gulf.
The town was founded in 1884 through the enterprise and
foresight of A. P. K. Sofford, Esq., and has been developed
through the judicious management of a company formed by
him and a number of gentlemen associated with him.
ExCtTBSIONS.
Lake Butler, 1| mile east of hotel. An easy walk of thii-ty
minutes. Follow the straight road to the eastward from the
hotel, or any of the pleasanter wood-jjaths leading in that
direction. The lake is six miles long and often nearly a
mile wide, crescent-shaped and bordered with sombre woods.
Brooker Creek, navigable for small boats, falls into the lake
at its southern extremity after flowing for several miles
through a dense, picturesque 'hammock growth. The lake
may also be reached from Tarpon Springs, by boat, ascending
Anclote River three miles, thence through Salt Lakes and
across a carry (i mile) to head of lake. Lake Butler has no
TARPON SPRINGS. 239
apparent natiival outlet, though it receives a large voliame
of water from streams and springs ; but like many other
Florida lakes, it is subject to sudden and unaccountable
changes of level. At present there are no boats for hire on
the lake, but arrangements can be made at the hotel to have
them hauled over if desired. On the west bank of the lake,
near its northern end, is an estate often occupied by the
English Duke of Sutherland and his family during the win-
ter. The dwelling stands on a commanding bluif overlook-
ing the lake. It is surrounded by private grounds of con-
siderable extent, from which trespassers are rigidly ex-
cluded. The regular entrance and roadway is from the side
nearest Tarpon Springs, where there is a conspicuous gate-
way with " Sutherland Manor" lettered on the transom. It
is, perhaps, permissible to say here that the Duke, after
having personally tried the most noted resorts of the world,
with a view to finding the best, has chosen this location as
affording, upon the whole, the most satisfactory hygienic
conditions.
Andote River. — This considerable stream is navigable for
boats drawing four feet to Tarpon Springs and a short dis-
tance beyond. On the north shore, half a mile from the
Gulf, is a conspicuous mound 235 feet long, 166 feet wide,
and 10 feet high. A. preliminary excavation showed it to be
similar in structure to those on the Kootee River. The
mound is covered with a growth of moderate-sized pines and
scrub palmetto, and no thorough exploration has been at-
tempted. A roadway leads to the top from the water-side,
indicating that it was once the site of a chief's residence.
A mile higher up the stream, on the same bank about
one-qiiarter mile inland, is the Myer's Mound, so called
from the nearest resident. This consists wholly of sand,
the pits whence it was procured being still discernible.
The structure is 168 feet long, 88 feet wide, and 5 feet
high. The major axis is nearly east and west. Mr. Walker
caused excavations to be made, and believes the mound to
have been made for a building site.
Half a mile northeast of Tarpon Springs is a circular sand
mound, 95 feet in diameter and 5 feet high, which contains
240 TARPON SPRINGS.
numerous human bones, with the peculiarity that, so far as
examined, the bodies were incinerated before burial, and the
skulls and bones were piled together in a shallow pit with
some degree of orderly arrangement. As an entirely differ-
ent system of interment was observed in mounds only a few
miles distant, a field for speculation is opened, in which the
possibility of cannibalism unavoidably suggests itself. Mr.
Walker, however, holds to the theory of interment after
partial incineration. Large pine - trees have grown over
the bones, and the construction of the mound is believed to
antedate the Spanish conquest. Ten crania in a toleraVily
jierfect condition were secured, and sent with other relics to
the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.
Adjacent to, and connected with, the lower part of An-
clote Eiver are many beautiful lake-like bayous offering an
endless variety of excursions by water. The major j^art of
the main stream lies in Pasco County. (See map on page
74.) It may be ascended about ten miles in a small boat.
About eight miles above the bridge near Tarpon Springs is
a sandy knoll well suited for camp or jncnic parties. Lun-
cheon should be taken, as this excursion can hardly be ac-
complished in less than six hours. Other landing - places
may be found, however, not so far away. The banks are
for the most part covered with a dense semi - tropical
growth, unbroken for miles by any sign of human habita-
tion. Sail-boats are available only in the lower reaches of
the river.
Andote Key. — A pleasant two hours' sail from Tarpon
Springs. The lighthouse is a skeleton iron tower painted
black, standing on the southerly extremity of the keys, with
the keepers' houses near at hand. The lantern is 101^ feet
above the sea, showing a red flash every 30 seconds, visible
16 nautical miles at sea. Two miles north of the Anclote
Eiver is Trouble Creek, along the shores of which is an out-
crop of blue flint rock, and the banks of the stream afford
abundant evidences of having bqen occupied by Indian
makers of spear-heads and arrow-heads. It has been sup-
posed that the Florida Indians drew their supplies of flint-
headed projectiles from a distance, but this quarry certainly
TARPON SPRINGS. 241
Ijroves that they had at least one considerable source of
home-supply.
^'Kootee " River. — The Indian name in full is Ach-as-koo-tee,
or Pith-lo-ches-koo-tee, but custom has adopted " Kootee "
as sufficiently distinctive. It falls into the Gulf of Mexico
about ten miles north of Tarpon Springs, whence it may be
easily reached by sail-boat in about three hours with a fair
Avind ; or in two hours through the woods and over sandy
roads. Descending the Anclote River from Tarpon Springs
involves some delay, owing to the crooked channels, but when
the Gulf is reached the course is jjlain, keeping well out from
shore to avoid oyster bars. The trip may be undertaken
with safety even in a strong on-shore wind, for the coast is
sheltered by outlying keys. The oyster bars increase in
number off tlie mouth of the river, and entrance can only be
made in a canoe or skiff. On the south bank, about \ mile
above the mouth, are two Indian mounds. The one nearest
the Gulf is 168 feet long, 55 feet wide, 5 feet high. It lies
with its major axis nearly north and south. To the eastward
of this, about 300 feet, is another mound, with its major axis
N.E. and S.W. It is 175 feet long, 50 feet wide at the south-
west end, and 15 feet wide at the northeast end. Near the
narrow end is a spur 20 feet long and 10 feet wide. Exca-
vations made by S. T. Walker, of Clearwater, showed that the
mounds were composed of alternate layers of sand and oyster
shells, with abundant human bones and broken pottery.
The skeletons were all at full length, reclining on the right
side, and with the heads jjointing to a common centre. They
were laid in concentric circles. A short distance south of
the Kootee is Blue Sink, a curious natural well with rocky
sides.
The Gulf Beach. — A pleasant walk (45 min.) from the sta-
tion. Follow road leading south from Tarpon Springs Ho-
tel. After passing town limits the road inclines to the
westward, dividing into several trails after the manner of
roads in Florida. Following at wull those that lead to the
westward through pleasant rolling pine lands, the shore,
wooded nearly to the water's edge, is j^resently reached.
The beach varies much in character, afibrding good walking
242 TARPON SPRINGS.
in some places, but being elsewhere well-nigh impassable.
One cannot walk far along tlie w'atcr-side, however, without
finding shady lounging places with a charming outlook
across the pale-green sea to the distant barrier of reefs and
islands.
Seaside, Sidherland, Ozona, Duvedin, and Clenrtcater, are
railroad stations on the Orange Belt Railway south of Tar-
jDon Springs. (For distances, see p. 38.) They are all on
the Gulf coast, and may be reached by land or water.
Tlie Gulf Coast South. — Nearly opposite the mouth of An-
clote River, across Bay St. Joseph, are the Anclote Keys.
(See p. 37.) To the southward for six miles the outlying keys
are little more than reefs, but thence almost to Point Pinellas
shelter and safe anchorage may be found almost anywhere.
At distances varying from one mile to five miles from shore,
is an almost continuous line of keys, enclosing sounds and
inlets of great beauty and sufficient depth for easy naviga-
tion in the craft adapted for general navigation along this
coast. It is difficult to go amiss in seeking a camping- ground '
on shore, for the beaches are almost continuous, backed by
wooded blulfs, and with fresh-water to be had, either from
natural springs or at the cost of a little digging above high-
water mark.
Wood roads, rather easier than the average of Florida
roads, lead southward and across the peninsula to Old Tampa
Bay. In general the walking through the woods is good,
though there are frequent sand-dunes and bays near the
coast that are apt to perplex a stranger.
Tlie Gtdf Coast North. — Harbors and anchorage for boats of
light draft are found in the lee of Anclote Keys. 4 miles off
shore ; at Port Richley, mouth of '' Kootee " River, 9 miles ;
at Hudson, 15 miles ; at Bayport, 25 miles ; moiith of ^Yeki-
woochee River ; at the mouth of Chassahowitzka River, 35
miles ; at the mouth of Homosassa River, 41 miles (see p.
13) ; and in the lee of St. Martin's Keys, at the mouth of
Withlacoochee River ; in the bay of the same name, and
in the lee of Chambers Island, 2 miles oflf shore. Between
this and Cedar Key is Waccasassie Bay, with Wacassa River
aff"ording access to Gulf Hammock, the Wekiwa Spring, and
TARPON SPRINGS— CLEARWATER HARBOR. 2i3
fine hunting grounds. At Cedar Key (80 miles), the terminus
of the F. C. & P. Eailway, shipping supplies may be obtained.
The other places named are small settlements where pur-
chasing facilities are meagre. In the main this coast line is
low and uninteresting, with very shoal water extending often
for several miles off shore. The waters are, however, all
practicable for good-sized sharpies, and the attractions are
manifold for fishermen and sportsmen along the inlets and
among the coastwise hammocks. Shell mounds, suitable for
camping, are of frequent occurrence, and water-fasks can be
replenished at any of the harbors named. A post-road fol-
lows the coast from Tarpon Springs northward as far as Argo,
whence it diverges east and north to Brooksville, 22 miles.
From Bayport (see above) is a post-road eastward to Brookc-
ville, 16 miles.
132. Sutherland, Hillsborough County.
Hotel. — Sutherland HoteJ, $4 a day. At boarding-houses special terms may
be made at $4 to $5 per week.
The land in the vicinity is mainly owned by Western
capitalists, who built a large hotel in 1888, which was burned
in Febmary, 1889, and at once rebuilt on a still larger scale.
There is a tramway to Lake Butler, 3 miles distant. (See ]).
251.) Among the local curiosities are Blue Sink, Shell Isl-
and, and the fine Gulf Beach. For other excursions, see
Koutes 130 to 133.
133. Clearwater Harbor, Hillsborough County.
Hotel.— 0)-a?i(/« Bluff Hotel, $2.50 a Aaj.—S.ea View Hotel, Scranton Hotel,
$1.50 to $2 a day, with special rates by the week.
Saddle horses, 30c. an hour, $2 a day.— Single team, 50c. an hour, $3 a dr.y.—
Double team, 75c. an hour, $5 a day.
Rowboats, $1 a day. — Sailboats, $2 a day.
Guides : J. W. Wetmore, Robert Culleii, A. A. Whitehnrst ; rates according
to service.
This pleasant resort is reached by the Orange Belt Eail-
way. (See p. 38.) The town stands on a fine bluff, amidst
noble live-oak trees. It commands a fine view across the-
harbor to the outer keys and the open Gulf. A fine natural
244 CLEARWATER HARBOR.
spring of sulphuvreted water boils up through the sand near
the shore. The water, as the name of the jilace imi)lies, is,
under ordinary conditions of weather, wonderfully clear and
sparkling, and it is an endless source of amusement to watch
the submarine life along the sands and reefs. There are
Episcopal, Methodist, and Baptist churches in the town,
and a good school. The surrounding country is high rolling
land, for the most part heavily wooded, with many fresh-
water lakes, and excellent hunting and fishing. At John's
Pass, 18 miles south of Clearwater, is a curious burial mound
on a low mangrove island, scarcely habitable and without
fresh water. The island is nearly covered with water at
high tide, but two parallel ridges of dry land run east and
west, and at the eastern extremity of the southernmost ridge
is the mound in question. It is oval in shape, 50 feet long,
25 wide, and at present only 3 feet high. When discovered
many skulls and bones lay on the surface, with numerous
fragments of pottery, exposed through the action of the sea,
in sjjite of a heavy growth of sea-grape and SiDanish bayonet.
Mr. Walker found numerous skeletons stretched at full
length, generally on the right side. Nearly two-thirds of the
remains were of children.
On the mainland, nearly opposite John's Pass, on the
south side of Boca Ciega, or Four Mile Bayou, at the mouth
of a small creek that falls into the bayou, are two large
mounds, one of shell and the other of sand. At last advices
they had never been explored, owing to refusal of permis-
sion by the owners.
Long Key lies between Boca Ciega and Pas d'Agrille. It
is a naiTow key some five miles long. About midway of the
key, on the landward side, is a dense cabbage hammock,
covering a turtle-sha^jed mound 108 feet long, 66 wide, 5 feet
high. Excavations revealed incomplete skeletons reclining
at full length, but no perfect crania were found. No pottery
was found nor other relics, and from the structural methods
it is believed that the builders were of a different race or
tribe from those about the Anclote River. It is worthy of
mention that a remarkable turtle mound stands on Halifax
Biver, near Eldora, on the east coast of Florida (see p. 208).
CLEARWATER HARBOR. 245
The one on Long Key has a testudiuate outline with head
and tail clearly defined. The flipjaers are represented by
ditches whence no doubt the mound-builders took their
material. The Halifax Eiver "turtle," on the contrary, has
regularly constructed flippers.
Half a mile north of the village of Dunedin, a short dis-
tance back from the beach and near fresh-water ponds, is an
Indian mound, 156 feet long, 80 feet wide, 9 feet high. A
roadway, beginning 50 feet from the southwest face, ascends
with a regular incline to the top. The pits whence, presum-
ably, the sand was taken, are still to be seen near the ends of
the mound, whose major axis runs N.W. and S.E. Excavations
failed to reveal any remains, and the mound is believed to
Lave been made for a fortress or a residence. It stands in
a low jiine region, and the growth on its top is similar in
all respects to the surrounding forest.
Two miles south of Dunedin is Stevens' Creek, a small
stream rising some five miles inland. Near the source is a
mound of white sand, 46 feet in diameter and 3 feet high.
Partly calcined skeletons were found. The only way of
finding this mound is to ascend the creek to the head of
tide-water, which may readily be detected by a woodsman.
Due east from this point are two fresh-water ponds, between
which is the mound, situate in a "rosemary scriib."
Pine Key. — About three miles south of Pas d'Agrille are
two islands. They may easily be taken for one island, as
they are separated only by a narrow passage. On the south-
ernmost island is "Duck Pond," or lagoon, and near its
southern end is a mound 135 feet in diameter and 15 feet
higher than the general level of the island. The cabbage
liammock and scrub is very dense, and it is not altogether
easy to find the mound, though, when reached, it affords
quite an extensive outlook. Arrow-heads and ornaments of
bone, inlaid with copper, have been found, also hi;man
bones which crumble on exposure to the air. The abund-
ance of small shell mounds shows that the island was a
favorite camping-place, if not a permanent residence.
246 ST. PETERSBURG.
134. St. Petersburg, Hillsborougli County.
Hotel.— T/ie Detroit, $3 a day.
Terminus of the Orange Belt Railroad. Steamboat connections wth Port
Tampa and the " Plant, "and J. T. & K. W. Railway Systems ; also coastwise
of Tampa and Sarasota Bays.
St. Petersburg is 6 miles from the extremity of Pinellas
Point, and 9 miles southwest from Port Tampa across the
mouth of Old Tampa Bay. (See map, p. 37.) The situation
is naturally very attractive, high wooded bluffs rising from
the water-side, which is bordered with a nearly level sandy
beach. A railroad wharf almost a mile long extends to the
deep water of the channel. The hotel commands a fine out-
look to the south and east. A post-road leads south 3 miles
to Pinellas and thence west, across the jieninsula, to New
Cadiz and Bonifacio, small settlements on the Gulf coast.
ExcuiiSiONS. — Old Tampa Bay, extending more than twenty
miles to the northward. Very shoal water everywhere along
shore ; good shooting and fishing, especially toward the north-
ern extremity of the bay.
Maximo Point, about 2 miles west of Pinellas Point, has
a large mound in alternate strata of sand and shells, cov-
ered with an almost impenetrable tangle of undergrowth
and palms. No accurate measurements have been made, aiid
at last advices the mound was practically unexplored. It is
provided with the usual inclined plane on the south side
leading to the level top, several hundred feet long, and 15
feet high.
Bethel Camp. — Two miles north of Point Pinellas is a jilace
known by this name. There are springs of good water along
the beach, back of which is a thick hammock, and back of
this again, in a " rosemary scrub," a fine symmetrical mound
20 feet high, 200 feet long on the top, and 30 feet wide, with
a well-constructed gradient on the west side. The sharp
angles and well-preserved slopes of this mound indicate that
it is of more recent construction than some of its near neigh-
bors. Quite extensive excavations have been made in this
mound, but by whom and with what result is unknown. The
date 1840 is found deeply cut in several trees on the mounds
ST. PETERSBURG. 24 T
in this section, and it is supposed to indicate the date when
some party of hunters caused the excavations to be made.
Fault Fi>iellas — Many mounds, large and small, exist in
the immediate vicinity of the Point. One of these is sur-
rounded with an irregular embankment 10 or 12 feet high.
The main work itself is 20 feet high, of sand and shell. At
last advices it was practically unexplored. Some of the Pi-
nellas shell mounds are 25 feet high, while some of the
sand, or presumably domiciliary mounds, are at present only
5 or 6 feet high, but surrounded with quite deep ditches
save where crossed by causeways. The largest of these sup-
posed domiciliary mounds is 250 feet in diameter. On this
mound stands the public school-house of Pinellas. Skele-
tons have been found in some of these mounds.
De Soto. — Six miles east of Clearwater by port route.
Also accessible by steamer from Tampa three times a week.
There is no hotel, but lodgings can be procured in private
houses. Guides and hunters are always available at moder-
ate rates.
Papifs Bayou is tributary to Old Tampa Bay, about 5
miles from St. Petersburg, and almost directly opposite Port
Tampa. A perplexing network of bayous behind the point
renders it difficult for a stranger to find his way. There is
a fine Indian mound on the north side in Pillan's Hammock.
It is unique in shape, oval, with a central trench on the
major diameter, evidently not a modern excavation, but part
of the original design. At one end two wings or extensions
are carried out, prolonging the mound to 150 feet in length.
There are also marks of a roadway leading to the mound
through the hammock. The mound is largely composed of
human bones, partly incinerated and buried as in the mound
at Tarpon Springs (see Route 131). Some three hundred
yards west of this is another mound of the usual oval type.
Bayview. — A village near the head of Old Tamj^a Bay, 9f
miles by port route from Clearwater Harbor. The steam-
boat from Tampa touches here three times a week. The
land of the town site is good height above the water. There
is a fine hard beach, with sulphur sj^rings at frequent inter-
vals, excellent fishing, and plenty of fine oysters. A mile
248 ST. PETERSBUIU;.
north of Bayview post-office, on the south side of Alligator
Creek, Old Tampa Bay, is a small mound which Mr. Walker
found very rich in bones and relics. The mound was only
46 feet in diameter and but 3 feet high, and situated in so
dense a growth of scrub jjine that it was very difficult to
find. The mode of burial was similar to that at Tarpon
Springs, and the whole mound was a mass of human
bones disposed in three layers. In the upper layers were
found large numbers of glass beads, a pair of scissors, and a
bit of looking-glass. These trinkets fixed the date of in-
terment at a comparatively recent period, evidently sub-
sequent to the Spanish invasion. Philippi's Point, eight
miles north, is, according to local tradition, the place where
De Soto landed in 1539, and his ships anchored in Safety
Harbor, at the head of the bay, while the expedition landed.
Philippics Point. — Here is one of the largest mounds on
Tampa Bay, but owing to conflicting claims of local owners,
permission to excavate could not be obtained at last ad-
vices. To all appearance it is a domiciliary mound, though
bones have occasionally been washed out by the action of
the sea. Here it is supposed that in 1539 Hernando de Soto
was received by Hirrihigues, a powerful Indian cacique,
whose dwelling stood, according to the Spanish accounts,
upon a large artificial mound. Here was found one Juan
Ortiz, a survivor of Narvaez's ill-fated expedition, who
had been held captive by the Indians since 1528. The
Spaniards jsresently inaugurated their cruel policy of ac-
cepting the chief's hospitality while it suited their conven-
ience, and then seizing him as a hostage in order to extort
a ransom from his people. From this point, aided by Ortiz
as interpreter, began that remarkable march which ended
with the discovery of the Mississippi and the death of Soto,
after nearly all his followers had perished.
TAMPA. 249
140. Tampa, Hillsborough County (C. H.).
Populatiou, T.OOO.— Lat. 2T" 57' N.— Long. 82" 27' W. Mean rise and fall of
tide, 2 feet 2 inches.
Hotels.— The Tampa Bay Hotel.— City Hotel, $3 a. 6a,y.— The Plant, $3 a
day. — Collins House. — HilUborough House.
Railroads. — The South Florida Railroad : west to Port Tampa ; east and
north to Sanford, Palatka, Jacksonville, etc. Connects at Port Tampa with
ocean steamers from Key West, Havana, Jamaica, New Orleans, and Mobile,
and coastwise steamers for Bay ports and Pinellas Peninsula. The Florida
Central & Peninsula Railroad ; north to Jacksonville, Fernandina, etc.
Livery.— Double teams, $2 an hour ; $8 to $10 a day. Saddle-horses, $3 a
day.
The city of Tampa, commercially the most important on
the Gulf coast of the Peiiin.sula, is at the mouth of Hills-
borough River, and at the head of the eastern arm of Tampa
Bay (see map, p. 37). The town is regularly laid out upon
the point of land to the westward of the river, near the site
of old Fort Brooke, a United States military post established
in 1821, immediately after the acquisition of Florida by the
United States. It was an important base of .supplies during
the Seminole war, and was maintained as a garrisoned jjost
until after the Indians were subjugated. The site of the
old fort, ten minutes walk from the main street in a southerly
direction, is still the most attractive spot within the limits of
the town. It is now a public park, having been given to the
city by the United States after the close of the Civil War.
Within its limits are the remains of several mounds, the
largest of which is about 100 feet in diameter and 7 to 9
feet high. Partially incinerated bones and one complete hu-
man skeleton were found by Lieutenant A. W. Vodges, of the
Fifth Artillery, when the locality was first occupied by United
States troops. Some specimens of rude pottery were found,
also sjjlit and charred human bones, suggestive of cannibal-
ism on the part of the mound-builders. The mounds have
been considerably reduced in size, and in some cases almost
obliterated. Until after the Indian war Tampa was almost
the only place on the Gulf coast where a white man could
live in security, and safety here was only secured by the
Ijresence of a strong garrison. A settlement naturally grew
up under the guns of the fort. From this point the
old military roads led north and east to the interior
posts, and over them all supi^lies had to be haitled under
250 TAMPA.
military escort. From Fort Brooke Major Datle aiul his
commauci marched into the fatal amlniscade in the Walioo
swamp. And here were organized most of the expeditions
that wasted away in conflicts with a fierce and vigilant foe,
who was rarely to be found except when he could fight to
good advantage.
On November 3, 1862, Tampa was shelled by United States
gun-boats to dislodge the small Confederate garrison that
held possession. Not much show of resistance was made,
and during the rest of the Civil War an occasional visit from
a gun-boat sufficed to jjrevent its being made a harbor for
blockade runners.
To the westward of the river, in the midst of a i:)ark 150
acres in extent, is the Tampa Bay Hotel, one of the larg-
est and most magnificent in the country. It was erected at
a cost of about one million dollars, through the enterprise
of Mr. H. B. Plant, and opened to the public in 1890. The
architecture is Moorish and the material brick and concrete,
Avith terra cotta ornamentation and fire-proof construction,
throughout. The building is more than 500 feet long, with
luxurious furnishing and decorations, rooms single and en
suite, and everything that ingenuity can devise for the com-
fort of visitors.
Tamjia has large commercial interests in trade witli the
West Indies and as a shipping point for home products, ex-
tensive cigar factories, excellent stores of all kinds, several
newspapers, and large fishing and packing industries. The
streets are well lighted, with good sidewalks, and lines of
tramways to the suburbs.
Excursions, — Port Tampa, 9 miles by rail, has good hotels
and bathing facilities, excellent fishing, and is a favorite
place of resort at all seasons of the year (see Route 141).
Tampa Bay and Hillsborough Bai/, with a wide extent of
admirable cruising, and fishing grounds, offer a great varie-
ty of camping and hunting fields for parties making their
headquarters at Tampa, where sail-boats and launches, and
guides may be hired on reasonable terms.
Alafia Hirer falls into the bay about 10 miles southeast of
Tampa, and a little south of it, at the moi;th of Bullfrog
TAMPA— PORT TAMPA. 251
Creek, is a fine mound, 30 feet liigli and 200 feet in diam-
eter.
Hillsborough River, tributary to the bay of the same name,
is navigable to "the falls," about twenty miles from the
mouth.
At Indian Hill, some twenty miles southeast of Tampa, are
enormous shell heaps some 800 feet long and 20 or 30 feet
high, the most conspicuous elevations being visible several
miles at sea. Human remains are rarely found in true shell
heaps, but here, in a detached mound, they were found in
abundance, and under such conditions as to afford strong
support to the cannibalistic theory.
141. Port Tampa, Hillsborough County.
Hotel.— rA« Inn, $4 a clay.
Railroads. — The South Florida Railroad (to Tampa. Sanford, Palatka,
Jacksonville, etc.). The Orange Belt Railway (Clearwater Harbor, Tarpon
Springs, etc.). Reached by steam ferry to St. Petersbui-g, 9 miles.
Port Tampa is on a loeninsula separating Old Tampa and
Hillsborough Bays (see map, p. 37). It is the terminus
of the South Florida Railroad and the landing place for sev-
eral important lines of ocean steamers, as specified above,
lu order to reach deep water the railroad track has to be
carried out seven-eighths of a mile from shore, on a trestle
■work to the edge of the channel, where a depth of twenty-
four feet is found. Vessels drawing eighteen feet of water
can cross the outer bar. At the end of this long wharf is a
cluster of veritable lacustrine dwellings with all modern im-
provements, a railway station, freight houses, the various
appliances for railroad and steamboat shipments, and — of
chief interest to the tourist — The Inn, an hostelry standing on
jiiles, surrounded by wide galleries, and so near deeji water
that one may catch channel bass, Spanish mackerel, and sea-
trout literally from the windows. This establishment is the
only one of its kind on the coast, and offers unique attrac-
tions to lovers of water sports.
Picnic Island, a short distance south of the railroad wharf,
is a favorite resort for visitors to Tampa. The island is
covered with a low hammock growth, bordered with a level
252 PORT TAMPA— THE MANATEE lUVEH.
beach of fine white sand, sloping gradually out to dee}) water.
On the island are commodious buildings for the accommo-
dation of transient visitors.
142. The Manatee River.
Daily mail steamer from Tampa touching at all river ports.
The Manatee Country (see map, p. 59), lying jnst with-
in the main entrance to Tampa Bay, is a naturally rich
and attractive region embracing the northwestern sections
of Manatee County. It is most easily accessible by steam-
boat from Tampa. Manatee Kiver, or bay, is 15 miles
long and has an average width of one mile or more. It is
navigable for small steamers to Rye, about eighteen miles
from the coast. Manatee River rises in De Soto County, 50
miles from the coast. Rich hammocks border the stream
and the bay, and there are evidences that the whole region
was well iJopulated prior to the advent of Europeans.
Traces of civilized occupation are found along the coast, but
no records of their history are known to exist. Manatee
River and the adjacent waters of Sarasota Bay, and Tamjia
Bay, are among the most attractive to sportsmen. Naviga-
tion is safe and easy southward to Charlotte Harbor, and
northward to all points on Tampa and Hillsborough Bays,
and to Tarpon Springs, still farther north.
Palma Sola, so called from a lone palm that stands on an
outlying key, is the most considerable settlement near the
coast. The Palma Sola Hotel (3^3 a day) is pleasantly situ-
ated, with a fine outlook to seaward. The harbor affords
safe anchorage for large vessels. Thei'e is a good store
where ordinary supplies can be obtained, and boats suitable
for hunters and fishermen can be hired at reasonable rates.
A post-road leads to Cortez, G miles southwest, at the head
of Sarasota Bay. The road continiies eastward to Manatee,
2 miles, whence it diverges southward along the coast to
Sarasota, Osprey, and Venice, and southeastward, crossing
the county diagonally to Pine Level.
Indian Mounds. — Very large shell heaps extend along the
THE MANATEE RIVER. 253
Bbores of Shaw's Point, near the mouth of the river, for five
hundred and sixty-four feet, with a height of fifteen to
twenty feet at the highest point. The sea has so washed
away the mounds that an inspection of their structure has
been possible, and it seems certain that they are the
natural accumulation of waste material unavoidable in the
vicinity of an Indian camp. The apparent process was as
follows : A fire was built on the ground, and around this the
savages sat cooking, eating, and throwing shells and bones
over their shoulders. In the course of a few weeks a circu-
lar bank of shells would be formed around the fire, and at
length the central sjiace would be so narrowed that the fire
would be moved to the top of the bank, and the process re-
jieated. In point of fact, the successive fires in such mounds
have been located, and found to correspond with this theory.
Of course the resultant mound is often irregular, but the
theory is reasonable, and anyone who has camped for a few
days near a Florida oyster-bed must have noticed the jihe-
nomenal rapidity with which the jjiles of oyster-shells grow.
That the Indians, who lived mainly by fishing and hunting,
should have constructed these huge mounds, is only in the
natural order of things.
254 CHARLOTTE HAUBOll.
150. Charlotte Harbor.
(See general map of Florida, and maps of Do Soto and Lee Counties.)
Jacksonville to Punta Gorda and Charlotte Harbor.
By J., T. .fe K. W., and Florida Southern Railway system via Palatka, San-
ford, Kissiuiee, etc., 324 miles (13!^ hours runninfr time). Sleeping cars on all
through trains. See Maps of Duval, Clay, Vohwia, Oran;^e, Osceola, I'olk. and
De Soto Counties, with tables of stations and distances m context. Jackson-
ville to Sanford, see Routes 40 and 50.
To Lakeland, eiglity-tliree miles, tlie course is the same as
in Eoute 130. Thence the general direction is south, follow-
ing Peace Eiver {Flumen Pads of the early map makers).
Bartow, the county town (Polk County) is the most imijor-
tant place on the route. Fort Meade was established as a
United States military pest December 19, 1849, and main-
tained until September 20, 1857. It is now a thriving town
of 400 inhabitants. Near Bowling Green is the line between
Polk and De Soto Counties (see map, p. 22). A short dis-
tance south is the site of Fort Choconitka, established Octo-
ber 26, 1849, and abandoned July 18, 1850.
Zolfo Springs is so called from the number of sulphur
springs that exist in the vicinity, the prefix being presum-
ably a local phonetic abbreviation of the longer word.
Charley Apopka always attracts attention from its extraor-
dinary name, which is, in fact, an unpardonable corruption
from the Seminole Tsalopopkohatchee, meaning "catfish-
eating creek." The terminal hatches (river or creek) was
first dropped, and Tsalo-popka was finally Americanized into
its present form.'
The name Apopka, properly Ahapopka, is found elsewhere
in the State, often in combination with other Seminole
terms.
Arcadia became the seat of government of Polk County in
November, 1889. It has a population of about two hundred,
a new county court-house, a weekly newspaper, and a phos-
phate company.
" For this explanation the editor is indebted to Mr. E. A. Richards, of Or-
lando.
CHARLOTTE HARBOR. 255
When and by ■whom this fine bav was discovered is a mat-
ter of some doubt. It is not unlikely that Hernandez de
Cordova is entitled to the honor. Certain it is that in 1.517,
Avhen on a slave-hunting expedition, he lauded on the Gulf
coast at a place whose description answers very well to this,
and was so warmly received by the natives that he and his
men were glad to escape with their lives. The earliest maps
that definitely show the two great and curiously similar bays
on the Gulf coast, known to us as Tampa Bay and Charlotte
Harbor, name the southernmost after Ponce de Leon ; but
there is some uncertainty whether this or a bay south of Cajie
Romano was intended. Its present name, in the opinion of
Dr. Brinton, the well-known archajologist, is a European
corruption of Carloosa or Caloosa, the native tribe that in-
habited this region at the time of the Spanish discovery.
The southern part is now known as San Carlos Bay. It
seems probable that the two were originally considered as
one and named accordingly. The extreme length of Char-
lotte Harbor is about 30 miles, lying between 26" 30' and
the 27th parallel of north latitude. It is separated from the
Gulf by a long line of partially wooded keys, filled with in-
numerable islands, and offers unsurpassed attractions to the
lover of outdoor life. Two large streams, the Myakka and
Peace Rivers, enter the head of the harbor from the north,
and near its southern j^asses it receives the Caloosahatchee,
from Lake Okechobee and the Everglades. The main en-
trance is practicable for vessels drawing 25 feet, and large
vessels can find entrance through San Carlos Pass from the
southward. Lines of ocean steamers run regularly to Ha-
vana, Key West, and Baltimore.
The discovery of exceedingly rich phosphates in the bed
of Peace River has greatly stimulated commercial interests of
all kinds in this vicinity. The deposit occurs in a semi-fluid
state, so that it can be pumped from the river bottom and de-
livered for transportation almost wholly without the em-
liloyment of manual labor. The crude product is dried and
packed in cars for transportation to Charlotte Harbor, the
nearest seaport, or by rail to the north. The discoveries of
the phosphate deposits were made in the summer of 1889,
250 CHARLOTTE HAUBOR— rUNTA (;ORDA.
and during the following winter a line of ocean steamers be-
gan making regular trips to Baltimore. At this writing
scarcely any change has been made in the level of the river-
bed, although powerful pumping machinery has been at work
for several mouths. The semi-liqiiid fertilizer seems to
flow toward the pumps from all directions, and apparently in
almost undiminished volume.
151. Puiita Gorda, De Soto County.
Lat. 36" 55' N.— Long. 82" 3' W.
Hotel. — Punta Gorda. $4 a day.
Railroad. — North to Bartow, Sanford, Leesbtirsr, etc.
Ocean steamers to Key West, Havana, and New Orleans. Coastwise eteam-
ers to San Carlos Bay, Caloosahatchee River, Naples, and intermediate land-
ings.
Steam launches, $12 to 115 a day.
Sail-boats, $1 an hour, $4 to $5 "a day.
Guides and hiiate.'s, $1.50 to $3 a day.
Punta Gorda is the most southerly railroad terminus on
the Gulf coast ; a favorite stojipiug-jilace for sportsmen,
tourists, and invalids, within easy reach of the most famous
tarpon fishing-grounds on the coast. The station near the
hotel is Trabiie, named after one of the pioneers of this re-
gion, and Punta Gorda is properly the railroad wharf and
actual terminus, a mile farther south. Pojiularly, the latter
name is applied to both places. The hotel is of wood, more
than 400 feet long, with a wide veranda and 150 rooms, all
commanding an outlook across the bay. In front is a spac-
ious lawn of Bermuda grass, and from the water's edge a
wharf extends 1,000 feet to the edge of navigable water.
From this wharf sea-trout, bluetish, Spanish mackerel, and all
the common fish of Florida waters may be taken with rod and
line. From the hotel veranda one looks across the north-
eastern arm of the bay to Live Oak Point and Oak Bluffs
(1^ mile). This ai-m of the bay is in reality the mouth
of Peace River. Beyond the point is the western ami of
the bay, into which falls Myakka Piiver (see p. 270). On
the j)oint itself is Charlotte Harbor town, with a number of
stores and dwellings, including a hotel and several boarding-
houses. It is the shipping point for a large cattle-grazing
PUNTA GORDA. 257
country to the northward, and several wharves extend from
the shore to the edge of the channel. A good sand-beach,
with occasional shell-mounds, offers attractions to camping
and picnic parties.
Midway of the harbor is a detached landing and store-
houses, over piles, for the accommodation of deep-draught
vessels. To the southward is the railroad wharf, nearly
one mile long, where the ocean steamers make their land-
ings, and beyond it Charlotte Harbor proper opens tov,'ard
the Gulf. Almost eveiywhere the water is shallow for a
long distance from shore, and frequent oyster-reefs are
troublesome to steersmen unfamiliar with the channels.
With boats of shallow draft, however, one may go almost
anywhere by tho exercise of discretion and seamanship.
Excursions. — Alligator Eiver, a picturesque stream flowing
for the \ipper part of its course through heavily wooded
bluffs with occasional clearings, falls into the bay seven miles
south of the hotel. The distance by land is five miles. Boats
can be hired at a house near the river, or the whole trip can
be made by launch or small boat, as the stream is navigable
several miles from its. mouth. Numerous creeks and inlets
along shore are favorite retreats for ducks, and quails abound
in the open woods and savannas a few hundred yards inland.
The stream rises in a wild region, extending for many miles
to the south and east, where, with the aid of hunters familiar
with the country, large game may be found.
Myakka River. — Five miles west of hotel. This is a con-
siderable stream, rising near the eastern border of Manatee
County, thirty miles north. It may be ascended to Lake
Myakka and beyond in small boats, but the current is swift,
at times breaking into rapids. Ten miles from Charlotte
Harbor it widens, and for the last eight miles is nearly one
mile wide. It is navigable for launches to where the stream
narrows ; a pleasant excursion of five hours from the hotel.
A military post was maintained near Lake Myakka during
the winter of 1849-50, to restrain the unsubdued remnant
of the Seminoles after the war was over.
Peace River. — By some authorities this sti'eam is called
"Peas" Eiver, and others hold that it takes its name from
17
258 PUNTA GOUDA.
& treaty made with the Indians in comparatively modern
times. It was charted, however, as "Fiumen Pacis" by Le
Moyne in 15G0, and was doubtless so named by the Spanish
discoverers. The railroad follows the left bank of the stream
• — not often within sight, however — almost throughout its
course. It receives three considerable streams as tributaries,
the Chilocohatchee from the west, and Joshua's Creek and
Prairie Creek from the east. All these may be ascended in
small boats to good hunting grounds. A favorite excursion
by steam-launch is up Peace Eiver to Lettuce Lake and Fort
Ogden (12 miles). The lake is a small body of water, so
called from the abundance of water-lettuce that grows in its
shallows. Any point on the river may be easily reached by
rail, and the return trip made down stream by row-boat. In
this case, of course, arrangements should be made to have a
boat on hand at the desired point, as a local supply cannot
always be counted upon.
In its lower reaches Peace Piver is bordered with marshes
and mangrove islands, intersected with a labyrinth of creeks
where there is good wild-fowl shooting.
Punta Gorda nearly marks the northern limit on the Gulf
coast of the Koonti plant or Indian bread-fruit, a graceful,
palm-like plant growing in the open woods, or among the
l^almetto scrub. Farther south it is found in great abun-
dance, and is a staple article of food among the Indians of
the Everglades. The root, which is large and thick, is
ground and washed, the product being a fine white flour,
used for the table much as corn-starch is used, and equally
palatable. On Biscayno Bay this flour is largely manufac-
tured by the white residents, both for home consumption
and for shipment to Key West, where it is extensively used
as an article of food. The soluble ingredients of the Koonti
root which are washed out in the jjrocess of manufacture, are
poisonous, as is the root itself in its raw state, but it is an
excellent fertilizer for all kinds of vegetables, and a flour-
ishing garden is the inevitable adjunct of a well-conducted
Koonti mill. The plant, when it reaches maturity, pushes
up a large cone of orange-red seeds among its palm-like
fronds, and these are such a favorite article of food with
PUNTA GORDA— SAINT-JAMES-ON-THE-GULF. 259
crows and other birds, that they are scattered far and wide
over the country, insuring an abundant croj) without trouble
to the planter. Attempts to cultivate the Koonti root arti-
ficially have not thus far proved successful.
More extended excursions may be made to Pine Island
(Route 152), Punta Eassa (Route 153), and Myers, on the
Caloosahatchee River (Route 154). The latter is a regular
steamboat route with tri-weekly boats, and weekly boats to
Naples, thirty miles farther down the coast. The southern
part of the peninsula separating Charlotte Harbor from the
Gulf is an attractive region for sportsmen, with high bluifs
and numeroiis small lakes in the interior. The Gulf coast
for thirty miles to the northward is studded with mangrove
islands and outlying keys, affording sheltered navigation
for the whole distance.
152. Saint- James-on-the-Giilf, Lee County.
Lat. 26° 32' N.— Long. 82" 54' W.
Hotel. — Tie San Carlos Hotel, $3 a day.
Steamboats three times a week to Punta Gorda and Fort Myers ; once a week
to Naples, Sarasota Bay, and Tampa.
Big Pine Island is the largest in Charlotte Harbor, con-
taining nearly 25,000 acres, mainly in woodland. It is 14
miles long, and from two to four miles wide. Beaches of
white sand skirt its shores, except where the mangroves
have gained a foothold, or occasional inlets bordered with
saw-grass make their way inland. Mattlacha Pass, to the
eastward of the i.sland, is very shallow, and practicable only
for small boats. To the westward is Pine Island Sound,
navigable for small steamboats and vessels of moderate
draught. Several thousand acres at the southern end of the
island are owned by the San Carlos Hotel, and have been
partially cleared and laid out with a view to inducing tourists
and residents to purchase and build. There is a good wharf
accessible through San Carlos Pass for sea-going vessels,
and the most famous tarpon-fishing gi'ounds on the Florida
coast are within easy reach.
The locality and its surroundings are certainly most attrac-
tive. The great bay and its sounds are studded with islands
260 SAINT-J AMES-ON-THE-.G ULF.
covered ■with semi-tropical vegetation. Between them wind
intricate channels, through which the hunter may paddle
his canoe or row his skiff for days without seeing a human
habitation, ard with a certainty of finding plenty of game,
on foot and on the wing. Along the outer beaches, the Gulf
rollers break ceaselessly and renew the supply of curious
and beautiful shells, with here and there a marine nonde-
script that may well puzzle even those who are wise in such
matters.
It will be noticed that all important buildings, includ-
ing the light-keeper's house on Sanibel Island, are raised
on piles. This is to guard against possible damage from
hurricanes, which occur in this latitude during the sum-
mer months, rarely earlier than May or later than October.
When one of these occurs in conjunction with a high tide,
the water rises far above its usual level. The hotel stands
well above the highest point to which hurricanes have ever
driven the waves.
Sanibel Island lies directly in front of the hotel, two miles
distant across San Carlos Bay, curving crescent-wise to the
westward. It is 13 miles long, and 3 miles in extreme width.
The inland shore is low, overgrown with mangroves, and
jsenetrated by shallow bays and inlets. The seaward front
has a fine unbroken beach, strewn with exqiii-site shells.
The interior of the island rises often into blnflfs, generally
well woodel, and offering endless attractions to the sports-
man-naturalist. Point Ybel is the eastern extremity of the
island. Near it is the black iron light-tower, with the neat
keeper's houses near at hand. The tower stands in lat. 26° 27'
II" N., long. 82° 53" W. It was established in 1884. The
light is 98 feet high, and shows white, varied by a white
flash every two minutes ; visible 15f nautical miles at sea.
Between Point Ybel and Bowditch Point is San Carlos Pass,
three miles wide, with the ship channel into San Carlos Bay.
Near Bowditch Point Matauzas Pass opens into a series of
shallow lagoons. On the north Blind Pass separates Sanibel
from Captiva Island.
Captiva and Ln Coata Islands, with siindiy small reefs and
keys, complete the barrier that divides Pine Island Sound
SAINT-JAMES-ON-THE-GULF— PUNTA RASSA. 201
from the Gulf. The first is nine miles long, and ranges
from ahnost nothing to three-quarters of a mile wide. lia
Costa IS 7i miles long and one mile wide. The two are
sejiarated by Captiva Pass, practicable for small boats.
Pioita RciRna, 4 miles bv water (see below).
3Iyers, 18 miles by water (see Route 155).
153. Puuta Rassa, Lee County.
Lat. 26" 30' N.— Long. 82" W W.
Hotel. — The Tarpon Hotel, $2 a day, $12 a week, $45 a month.
Steamboats, same as St. .lames-ou-the-Gulf, p. 122.
Row-boats. 82a day (|4 to $5 with guide;. Sail-boats, $12 a day, with skipper
and two skiffs.
Punta Eassa (Barren Point) forms the eastern chop of San
Carlos i^ass ; an exi^anse of scrub-grown white sand with
beautiful beaches and a deep channel, through which ocean
currents set strongly close along shore. It is a great resort
for sportsmen and cattlemen, being the principal shipping
point of live stock for the Cuban markets. The accommoda-
tions and fare are not such as will prove attractive to the
luxuriously inclined tourist and his family, but for the true
fisherman it is a recognized headquarters. The house is a
large unjiainted wooden sti-ucture, rough and picturesque,
and with equally picturesque surroundings, including exten-
sive cattle-yards. Sharks of the largest size are caught from
the wharf that almost serves as a front porch for the hotel ;
the best tarpon-fishing grounds are within easy rowing dis-
tance ; the huge and dangerous devil-fish may be harpooned
just outside the pass, and the waters of the bay are at times
literally alive with all the game fish of the Gulf. To the
south and east is the wilderness merging into the Big Cy-
press swamp and the Everglades, almost as nature made
it, save that hunters have well-nigh exterminated birds of
brilliant i^lumage. Game birds and all kinds of four-footed
game are still abundant.
262 PUNTA RASSA.
The Tarpon.
Ifc is only since 1885 that the tarpon (Megnlops ikrifisoides
or atlanticus) has been recognized as a game-fish. He had
been known to take bait prior to tliat time, but had been
landed onl}^ by accident. Otherwise he had been harpooned
and occasionally taken in a seine, but his great size, strength,
and agility enabled him to defy most devices for his capture.
In the winter of 1880-81, Mr. S. H. Jones, of Philadelphia,'
killed a 170-lb. tarpon with bass tackle at Indian Eiver Inlet.
Mr. W. H. Wood, of New York, was the first, however, to
reduce the sport to a science by patiently studying the habits
of the fish.
The familiar home of the tarpon is the Gulf of Mexico, and
he is essentially a trojaical fish. Nevertheless stray speci-
mens have been found, in summer, as far north as Cape Cod,
and they are certainly abundant in Biscayne Bay and, prob-
ably, farther up the east coast of Florida. Tarpon may now
be accei^ted as the common name of the fish, though hereto-
fore it has often been spelled "tarpum," and is known along
the remote coasts as " silver king," "silver fish," " grande
6caille " among French-speaking Creoles, and " savanilla "
on the coast of Texas. Adult sj^ecimens often exceed
six feet in length, and weigh nearly or quite two hundred
pounds.
The tarijon is herring-like in general shape and appearance,
has an enormous mouth, with shear-like sides to his jaws,
large, fierce eyes, and is withal gifted with an exceptional
degree of muscular energy. When alive, this great fish
shades off" from dark oxidized silver along the back to the
most brilliant of metallic silver with gleams of gold along
the sides and head. Even in death the big scales retain
much of their beauty. The tarpon is only fairly good as a
table fish. The coast residents, however, dry the flesh in
the open air, and keep it as an article of food.
Tarpon fishing is not all fun, since he does not readily take
the bait. Persevering, but unlucky, fishermen have been
known to sit in their boats several hours daily for weeks, and
PUNTA RASSA. 263
finally give up in despair, without having secured so miich
as a nibble.
Special tackle is now made for this sport, to wit, rods of
sjilit-bamboo, seven to nine feet long, large multiplying
click reels that will hold two hundred yards of (15 to 21
thread) linen line. The reel should be used with a thumb-
stall or equivalent device, and a favorite hook is the 10/0
Dublin-bend Limerick, forged and ringed. How best to rig
the snell is still in doubt. It must be twenty-four to twenty-
eight inches long, because it will not hold unless gorged by
the fish. No hook will hold in the armor-j^lated mouth.
Wire and small chains are objectionable because sharks fre-
quently take the bait, and it is desirable to have them bite
the snell in two, and carry off the hook alone instead of more
or less line. A solid snell is often cut by the shear-like
action of the tarpon's jaw-plates. Such a snell passed
through a small rubber tube has its advocates, but many of
the most successful fishermen have settled upon a snell made
of rather loosely laid cotton cod-line, dyed some dark color,
so as to be nearly invisible when wet. It is difficult for the
fish to cut this with their shears, nor is he so apt to feel it be-
fore fully swallowing the bait. A good tarjson rod may cost
from ??12 to §22 ; a reel from ^5 to §35 ; two hundred yards
braided linen line, say §3 ; snells, if shop-made, §3 to $5 a
dozen ; gaff, §4 to §10. Complete outfit, say§25 upward.
The usual bait is mullet, half the fish being put upon the
hook, thrown to a distance from the boat, and allowed to sink
to the bottom. Then there is nothing to do but wait, and
put on fresh bait every hour. The tarpon feeds in shoal
water, and may often be seen prowling about and stirring np
the muddy bottom. When he takes the bait he must be
allowed to carry off a dozen yards or so of line before strik-
ing. This amount of line is often unreeled and coiled on
a thwart, so as to offer no resistance. When struck, the
fish begins a series of leaps, striving to shake himself
clear, and it is often two hours before he is so far exhausted
that he can be brought alongside and gaffed. Experienced
fishermen say that the protracted excitement of landing a
tarpon far exceeds that afforded by the salmon, hitherto
264
PUNTA RASSA.
considered the kiDpc of game fishes. Small tarpon, ranging
not higher than 40 or 50 pounds, may be taken with any
gaudy fly on the large South Florida rivers a few miles from
the coast.
The official tarjion record for 1889, as kept at Punta Rassa,
is appended.
1889.
Feb. 28
Mch. 2.
" 4.
" 7.
" 8.
" 9.
" If).
" 18.
" 21.
" 21.
" 22.
" 23.
" 2«,
" 27.
" 29.
" 30.
April 3.
" 4.
" 5.
" 8.
" 9.
" 9.
" 10.
" 11.
" 12.
" 15.
" 17.
" 17.
" 17.
" 19,
" 20.
■' 20.
" 21.
" 22.
C. A. Grymes
W. W. Jacobus
Thos. E. Tripler. . .
Thos. J. Falls.
Geo. A. Frost.
6
6
5
5
5
5
5
5
Thos. E. Tripler. . . 6
Geo. A. Frost fi
Frank L. Anthony. 6
Thos. J. Falls 5
Thos. E. Tripler. . . 5
Thos. J. Falls 5
Geo. A. Frost 6
E. Prime 5
O. A. Mygatt '5
Thos. B. Astea jS
Wni. Thorne 6
R. K. Mygatt 6
Win. E. Thorne... 6
...'4
" ... 5
E. Prime 6
O. A. Mygatt 5
R. K. Mvg.itt 9
Wrn. E. Thorne... 6
Thos. B. Asten ... 5
Frank L. Anthony. 5
R. K. Mygatt 5
E. Prime 6
R. K. Mygatt. ... 6
Thos. B. Asten 6
Frank h. Anthony. '6
^
J=
ti
1889.
M
^
2
119
Apr. 23.
114
'• 23.
4
m
" 23.
10
115i^
" 23.
9
lU5i
" 24.
1
7fi
" 24.
3
77
" 24.
11
132
May 2.
1
137
" 3.
2i
14H
" 6
3
131
" 7.
11
125
" 8.
(>
90
" 9.
8
99
'• 9.
127
" 10.
1
.78
" 11.
2
72
" 13.
1
70
" 14.
2
150
" 14.
1
144
" 14.
4
141
" 15.
11
69
'• 15.
2
85
" 15.
llfi
" 16.
8
93
" 16.
7
95
" 16.
4
147
" 16.
9
105
" 17.
8
95
" 17.
2
(il
" 17.
4
134
" 17.
3
llti
" 18.
1
130
" 18.
1
110
E. Prime
Thos. B. Asten....
Frank L. Anthony .
6
fi
4 10
5 3
E. Prime
Thos. B. Asten.
E. Prime
5 142
2* 125
.55
77
4 SO
2 135
5 145
9 98
3 115
8 I 53
5 10^ 125J
6 2 139f
5 5 93i
5 10 109
5 ,11 108
IJ 3i 126
6 i 106
5 I 9i 94
6 2 105*
5 6i 92i
6 ! 1 119
5 lOi' 94
5 ilOiilOl
4 64 56
5 i 6
6 U
6 r
79
1341
12(1 J
14«i
io.-i
133*
153
12(1|
98*
The tarpon season begins in March and improves for
sporting purposes as the weather grows warmer. Thus far,
Charlotte Harbor, in the vicinity of Punta Rassa, has proved
the best fishing-ground, but this is probably because the
habits of the game in that vicinity have been more thor-
oughly studied than elsewhere. Tarpon certainly abound
PUNTA RASSA— THE CALOOSA RIVER. 265
all along the Gulf coast, and in a lesser degree on the At-
lantic coast, as far up as the St. John's River. In February,
1S89, the upper reaches of Biscayne Bay were alive with
them, and the residents thereabout were spearing them at
will. Four skilled fishermen, however, failed to induce
them to bite, probably because it was too early in the sea-
son.
Etiquette among tarpon fishers prescribes that when a fish
is hooked, boats near at hand shall up anchor and keep out
of the way.
154. The Caloosa River.
Caloosa was the name of the native tribe dominant in this
region at the time of the Spanish discovery; "hatchee"
meant " river " in their tongue, and still survives in the Sem-
inole dialect. The Caloosas were a powerful and warlike
tribe, their province extending as far north as Tampa, and
embracing some fifty villages. Fontanedo translates " Ca-
loosa" as "village cruel," which, with a liberal interpreta-
tion, is suggestive as regards the disposition of the j^opula-
tiou. For about twenty-three miles from San Carlos Bay the
river maintains a width of from one mile to two miles, with
a depth of seven feet. The shores are, for the most part,
low, with occasional hammock islands and broad savannas.
From Punta Rassa on the south to Sword Point on the
north, the mouth of the Caloosa is a trifle over three miles
wide. The largest and most southerly of the three islands
lying off the entrance is Fisherman's Key. There are count-
less unnamed keys lying in every direction, some covered
witli mangroves and others with palms and hammock. The
channel is very tortuous, with barely seven feet at low tide,
but it becomes deeper three miles above Punta Rassa, where,
after first narrowing to half a mile, the stream widens to
1| mile. Four miles farther it again narrows, with Redfish
Point on the north and Palmetto Point on the south, and a
channel twenty-three feet deep. This is a favorite fish-
ing-ground. East of Palmetto Point is a bay known as Big
266 THE CALOOSA RIVER.
Slough, opening into a broad savanna. Two miles beyond
is Niggerhead Point, and beyond this again the pretty town
of Fort Myers (see Route 155). Six miles above Myers the
character of the river changes abruptly. The banks rise to
a height of fifteen to twenty feet, the stream narrows to sixty
yards, with a deep, strong current, and the l)anks are covered
with a dense hammock growth, an infallible sign of rich
land. Human habitations are few and far between. The
river receives constant accessions from springs and streams,
usually of cool pure water. Twelve miles above Myers the
telegraph line crosses the river at Parkinson's Ferry. A mile
further is Olga, near the sites — now hardly to be discovered
without careful search — of Fort Simmons on the north, and
Fort Denaud on the south, bank. The first named was little
more than a fortified picket post. The second was a station
of some imi^ortance, established in the winter of 1837-.38 by
Captain B. L. E. Bonneville, of the Seventh Infantry, and
named after the owner of the land. The site of the fort was
two miles from the landing that now bears its name. The fort
was strongly garrisoned during the closing years of the Semi-
nole war ; and from it Lieutenant J. T. McLaughlin, U.S.N.,
set out early in November, 1841, with a force of 150 seamen
and marines, to explore the then unknown Everglades. They
crossed the peninsula, reaching the Atlantic coast by way of
Biscayne Bay. Fort Denaud was abandoned shortly after
this, reoccui)ied in 1849, again abandoned, and once more
occupied in 1855, and at length, in 1857, finally evacuated, the
garrison moving to Fort Simmons on the north bank of the
river (sometimes called New Fort Denaud). Here a garrison
was maintained till 1858, when it was withdrawn to Fort
Myers.
Hollingsicortlt Ferry, 10 miles above Myers, is the jDriucipal
crossing place for cattle bound to Punta Eassa. Aha, 20
miles above Myers, is a jiost-ofiice with quite a little settle-
ment in its neighborhood.
About thirty-five miles above Myers is Lale Flirt, named
after a government schooner that was on duty in Florida
waters at the time of McLaughlin's expedition. Swift water
is encountei'ed before reaching the lake. This lake, so far as
THE CALOOSA RIVER— FORT MYERS. 2G7
known, was first visited by white men in July, 1832, the ex-
plorers being W. R. Hackley and P. B. Prior, representatives
of a New York land company. Fort Thomjison, at the out-
let of Lake Flirt, was a temporary post established to intimi-
date the Seminoles. From this i^oint to Okeechobee Lake
the river flows through the borders of the Everglades. Nat-
urally its upper reaches were not navigable, but the opera-
tions of the Okeechobee Drainage Company have opened a
canal through Lake Hickpochee, practicable for boats draw-
ing five feet.
155. Fort Myers, Lee County (C. H.).
Popiil<ation, 700.
Lat. 26" 37' N.— Long. 81" 50' W.
Hotel.— jT/^e Cahosa Hotel, $2 a day.
Steamboat to Punta Gorda three times a week.
Hunter and gnide, Taylor Frierson.
As its name implies, Myers was originally a military post.
It was named after Captain Abraham C. Myers, of the Fourth
Infantry, who served in the Florida war and was afterward
brevetted lieutenant-colonel for gallantry in the war with
Mexico. He resigned his commission to join the Confeder-
ate States service in 1861. In 1858 the troops from Fort De-
naud were removed to this point, palisade outworks were
erected, and j^ermanent quarters built, only to be abandoned
shortly afterward. During the war for secession it was oc-
cupied alternately by United States and Confederate troops,
but it was a point of no strategic importance, and neither side
cared particularly either to hold or capture it. In 1888 the
remains of the soldiers who died here during the Seminole
war, were removed by the Government to the burial-ground
at Pensacola.
Fort Myers presents an attractive aspect to the approach-
ing voyager by river, for as yet the natural waterway affords
the only means of communication with the outside world.
Several wharves extend from the shore to the edge of the
channel. The houses are for the most part shaded by tropi-
cal trees, some of them not found elsewhere in Florida.
Among these are several noble specimens of the date-palm,
208 FORT MYERS.
royal i)alm, betel-nut, and giant liamboo. A street of gen-
erous width runs parallel to the river some two hundrfd
yards from the waterside, with good sidewalks and bordered
by overhanging orange-groves and gardens wherein grow all
kinds of wonderful plants, among them, besides those already
mentioned, are tamarinds, citrons, mangoes, guavas, all the
citrous fruits, pineapples, pomegranates, cocoa palms, and
all the moro common tropical and semi-tropical growths that
are found throughout the State. A short distance west of the
Caloosa Hotel is the residence of Major James Evans, near
whose house are a number of jjalm-trees of species not to be
found elsewhere on the mainland. On the trunks of some of
these may be seen the marks of the rare frosts that at long in-
tervals visit this region. In the same enclosure are clumps of
bamboo, some of them sixty or seventy feet high. A j^eculiar-
ity of their growth is that before they reach their full develop-
ment their roots reach the underlying limestone rock, and the
whole i^lant is lifted bodily from the ground. A few steps
farther west is a peculiarly symmetrical and vigorous specimen
of the date-palm, standing somewhat back from the street
and surrounded by a walled mound of earth. This is within
the old government reservation, and tradition has it that the
tree was planted by the late General Hancock, who was sta-
tioned here during 1856 and 1857. At the lower end of the
street are houses and laboratories erected by Thomas Edison,
the famous electrician, with a view to pursuing his scientific
researches where they cannot be interrupted by cold weather.
Fort Myers is still a frontier town, for, if we excejit
Naples, there is not another settlement between this and
Cape Sable on the south and the Atlantic coast on the east,
A large part of this region is available for stock-raising, and
cattle-ranches are scattered throughout the wilderness, where
at intervals the stock is " rounded up " and branded by
parties of cowboys.
Excursions in the neighborhood of Fort Myers are in the
main limited to the river (see Route 154), but it is possible to
ride or drive for many miles in any direction. Good shooting
is to be foimd everywhere, and large game ranges up to the
outskirts of the settlement.
LAKE OKEECHOBEE, 269
156. Lake Okeechobee, Dade, De Soto, and Lee
Couuties.
Between Lat. 26" 40' aud 27° 11' N., and Long. 80" 29' and 81" W.— Eleva-
tion above sea-level 20.24 feet. — Area about 1,250 square miles.
To the Spaniards the lake was vaguely known by report of
the natives as Myacco, or Myaxo, and later by its present
name, signifying "Big Water." When Jacob Le Moyne
made his map of Florida in 1560, or thereabout, he placed a
large lake in the middle of the peninsula, and made this
note beside it. " Adeo magnus est hie lacus ut ex una rqxi
conspici alter a nonpossit." (So great is this lake that one
bank cannot be seen from the other.) And not so very much
more is known about it to this day. Le Moyne's informa-
tion seems to have been more trustworthy than William
Darby's, whose mai?, published in 1821, ignores the Kissim-
meeEiver altogether, and shows the lake as Lagoona Mayax :
a grass-grown swamp. John Lee Williams, writing of this
region in 1837, says : " The great lakes that are believed to
supply these rivers are wholly unknown."
There is a tradition, not well authenticated, to the effect
that one of the Spani-sh governors sent an expedition to
Myacco, as the great lake was then called, to search for
pearls, but no proofs have been discovered.
The Seminole war led to a partial exploration by Lieu-
tenant John T. McLaughlin, U.S.N. , who, in November,
18-il, led a force of seamen and marines to the lake, skirt-
ing its southern shore, taking daily observations of lati-
tude and longitude, aud making the first trustworthy report
as to the topography of this region. During that war it
was frequently visited by scouting parties, and the second
outbreak of the Seminoles, in 1856-57, led to further mili-
tary expeditions. A decisive engagement, known as the
Battle of Okeechobee, took place near the northern end of
the lake, December 25, 1837. During the Civil War the lake
afforded a safe retreat for fugitives from the Confederate
service, and it has since been frequently visited by hunters
and camj)ing parties, but it has never been accurately sur-
270 LAKli OKEECHOBEE— THE EVERGLADES.
veyed, and neither its exact dimensions nor the details of
its coast lino known with any degree of accuracy. In 1881
Mr. Kirk Munroe made a solitary voyage of exploration in a
canoe, and nearly perished before he conld make his way
out again. He wrote and i^ublished an interesting account
of his adventures.
The lake is for the most part surrounded by a wide belt of
" big saw-grass," through which it is well-nigh impossible
for human beings to i^enetrate. Camping-places are few
along shore, very difficult to find, and liable to be sub-
merged by a change of wind. The water is shallow, rarely
more than 15 feet deep, but it is drinkable, and there are
plenty of fish and water-fowl.
Parties visiting the lake should either make the trip in a
launch capable of running into the lake and back to the set-
tlements irrespective of weather, or else in a boat provided
with good cabin accommodations, ample supplies, and com-
petent guides.
The lake ofi'ers few attractions save its mysterious char-
acter. The shores are low and uninteresting, and except at
a few points landing is jiractically impossible. Fort Myers,
on the Caloosahatchee, is the most accessible settlement,
about 50 miles from the lake shore, though Jupiter and
Lake Worth, on the Atlantic coast, are really nearer in a
straight line. Numerous streams flow into the lake from
the north and west, and there are several small islands near
the southern end, where the open water gives way to the
grass-grown Everglades.
157. The Everglades.
This vast tract of shallow water thickly overgi'own with
reeds and grass, lies in Dade, Lee, and Munroe Counties, to
the southward and eastward of Okeechobee Lake. It is not
a swamp in the ordinary meaning of the term, but rather a
shallow lake with a hard rock bottom, and grass growing to
a height of four or five feet above the surface of the water.
This sea of grass is studded with numerous islands, many of
them habitable, and some of them occupied and cultivated by
THE EVERGLADES— NAPLES. 271
the remnant of the Seminole tribes. Through this tract wind
numerous channels navigable for canoes, which are pushed
through the grass with setting poles. The Seminole of the
Everglades hardly knows the use of paddles or oars. The
Everglades have never been surveyed, though during the
Seminole wars they were pretty well explored by scouting
parties, whose business was to catch Indians, not make maps.
In the winter, the climate of the Everglades is not bad, the
water is drinkable, the channels are alive with fish, and game
is abundant. But it is very easy to get hopelessly lost, and
the labor of following a compass course through the tall
grass is very exhausting. The Indians are disposed to be
friendly when not crazed with drink ; but they can rarely
be persuaded to act as guides to their retreats, and they
discourage all parties of hunters and explorers from jsene-
trating the "Glades." Injudicious intrusion upon their
hunting grounds might easily provoke active resentment, for
they are well armed, and their tempers are not always an-
gelic.
The Everglades are most easily reached from Okeechobee
by following up some creek, or from Biscayne Bay by as-
cending Arch Creek, or the Miami Eiver. By this latter
route a day's excursion may take one well into the edge of
the " Glades." (See Koute 200.)
158. Naples, Lee County.
Lat. 26° IC N.— Long. 81" 54' W.
Naples is the most southerly settlement on the mainland
of the Gulf coast. It has a weekly mail service by steam-
boat from St. James and Punta Gorda, and is jileasantly
situated on a sandy peninsula with good elevation above the
sea. The region has been surveyed with a view to its be-
coming a resort, and strict rules as regards the location of
stables, etc. , on the streets have been adojited. Miss Eoso
Cleveland, sister of President Cleveland, was one of the first
Northerners to acquire proj^erty there, with a view to making
272 NAPLES.
it her winter residence. Naples is thirty-eiglit miles south
of Punta Kassa.
Miilco, the most southerly settlement on the Gulf coast, is
on an island thirteen miles south of Naples, and receives its
mail by special service, which means at irregular intervals,
or when there is any mail to be delivered.
South of Punta Eassa the coast is, in the main, uninhabit-
able, low and swampy, overgrown with mangroves, and in
short, in process of being turned into dry land by the slow
methods of nature. The Big Cyjiress Swamp borders the
coast and merges into the Everglades inland, and into man-
grove keys toward the Gulf. Here, as elsewhere, great vol-
umes of water flow outward from the Everglades, and there
are several goodly streams known to hunters, but whose
precise location has never been determined. Shark Kiver,
for instance, was visited by scouting parties during the
Seminole war, but later attempts to find it proved unsuc-
cessful, and its very existence is questioned by some recent
explorers, who claim to have made thorough search. Navi-
gation along this coast is very difficult, even for small boats.
The Government is now engaged in making comj^lete sur-
veys, where none have heretofore been attempted.
Middle Florida.
Between the 27th and 30th parallels of north latitude, lies
the richest section of the Florida peninsula. Parallels of
latitude, however, do not accurately define its limits. The
Suwannee River on the noi'th, and the Caloosahatchee on the
south, more nearly mark the natural boundaries. Within
this region lie the best agricultural lands, whether for the
citrous fruits or for the early field and garden crops that are
becoming now so important for the supply of Northern
markets. In round numbers, this section embraces an area
of about 20,000 square miles, a considerable fraction of
which, including savannas and the like, is unfit for cultiva-
tion ; and still another fraction is covered by beautiful lakes
and water-courses which provide natural irrigation and add
greatly to the attractiveness of the country. The native
l^ine forest still covers the land from ocean to gulf, save
where, as along the railways, it has given place to orange
groves and clearings, or where hammocks vary the monot-
ony of straight pine-trunks with the gnarled boughs of live
oak, or a tangle of bays, palms, and wild orange trees. The
forest land is all of good quality, except where it degener-
ates into cypress swamps, pine fiats, or hammock so low as
to be incapable of drainage. To the stranger, much of the
cleared land looks not unlike an ordinary sea-beach, but
after he has seen square miles of thriving orange-groves
growing out of this bare desert, he may realize that Florida
sand is not like that of other lands. The fact is that this
soil is very rich in limes and jjhosphates, is often underlaid,
covered, or mingled with vegetable mould resulting from
ages of accumulation and decomposition.
To the ordinary traveller Florida seems a level forest-cov-
ered plain, varied by occasional ranges of bluffs, and inter-
spersed with countless lakes. If lie is observant, he will
notice that above tide-water the streams flow with a strong
current, indicating a considerable elevation at the source,
and if he consults the toj^ographical engineers he will learn
that the central ridge of the peninsula averages several hun-
18
274 MIDDLE FLORIDA.
drecl feet above tide -water, reaching its greatest height,
nearly 500 feet, near " Table Mountain," in Lake County.
In the office of the Plant Investment Co., Jacksonville, is
a large relief map of Florida that well merits inspection.
The idea of the map originated with Mr. D. H. Elliott, gen-
eral agent of the Associated Railway Land Office, and was
intended to dispel the popular notion that Florida is a mo-
notonous level. The map is 15 feet by 30, and is jilanned
on a vertical scale of 50 feet to one inch, and a horizontal
scale of 2 miles to one inch. To the careless observer the
disproiiortion between the horizontal and vertical scales is
misleading, for with identical scales on a map of this size a
hill of 500 feet would be less than one-fourth of an inch high,
and, of course, practically invisible. Making due allowance,
however, for the exaggerated vertical scale, the map conveys
an excellent idea of the topography of the State. It was con-
structed by T. C. Leutze for the S. F. k W. Railway Co.,
and was sent to the World's Fair at New Orleans in the
Avinter of 1884r-85.
To the tourist or invalid this region ofiers an endless vari-
ety of attractions in climate, scenery, game, and out-of-door
life in general. He may ride or walk through open forests
of pine where there are plenty of quail and a chance for deer
and turkey ; he may shoot for squirrels in the hammocks,
and in the wilder regions may secure the pelt of cougar,
tiger-cat, or black bear. The water-courses are almost all
navigable for canoes nearly or quite to their sources, and one
cannot follow one of them far without encountering some
kind of wild creature, interesting at all events for its own
sake, and perhaps legitimate prey for rod or gun.
The great railway systems of Florida cross the midland
region in all directions. See general map, and for stations and
distances, consult county maps and context. The St. John's,
the Ocklawaha Rivers, and the several lake regions of the in-
terior, afford steam-boat routes tlirougli many of the most
picturesque regions of the State, including the wonderful
springs described elsewhere. "Within this section, too, are
the remarkable phos2)hates recently discovered, which prom-
ise to add vastly to the wealth and prosperity of the State.
MIDDLE FLORIDA— SAKFORD. 275
Within the general boundaries indicated above are three
regular stations of the U. S. Signal Service, namely, Jack-
sonville, Sanford, and Cedar Key, representing approximately
the eastern, inland, and western sections of Middle Florida.
Observations for temperature have been kept at these stations
for several years. Taking the average temperatures recorded
at the three, we have the following result : Spring, 70.3° ;
summer, 81.2°; autumn, 71.8° ; winter, 57.16°. This state-
ment for winter does not fairly represent the climate, for,
in point of fact, the occasional " northers " unduly reduce
the average temperature, which in fair winter weather is
from 65° to 70°. From the returns of the same stations, the
following is approximately the monthly average of clear or
fair days, when it is pleasant to be out of doors : January, 23 ;
February, 23 ; March, 27 ; April, 26 ; May, 27 ; June, 25 ; July,
27 ; August, 27 ; September, 25 ; October, 26 ; November, 23 ;
December, 26. The Weather Service, how-ever, separates its
tables of clouds and rainfall, so that, of the 65 days not
accounted for above, a considerable proportion are not of
necessity what would be called rainy.
The average rainfall is as follows: Spring, 9.24 inches;
summer, 21.36 inches ; autumn, 12.88 inches ; winter, 8.55
inches. Thus it api^ears that summer is distinctly the rainy
season, while the winter months, December, January, and
February have the lightest rainfall. (For comparative
weather tables see page 377.)
160. Sanford to Tampa Bay and Port Tampa.
By South Florida Railroad, 124 miles (5 hours 30 minutes). For stations and
distances, see pp. 70, 73, 79, and maps of Orange, Polk, and Hillsborough
Counties.
For the first forty miles, to Kissimmee, the line runs
nearly south, bearing a little to the westward. Passing Win-
ter Park, one of the prettiest places in Florida, and Orlando,
the busy county town of one of the most prosperous coun-
ties in the State, the train presently leaves the high rolling
pine lands and enters upon a comparatively level tract ex-
tending to the Kissimmee group of lakes. Thence curving
27G SANFORD— WINTER PARK.
to tlie westward, it crosses Daveni^ort Creek, a tributaiy of
the Kissiinmee, and at Haines City enters the Polk County
lake region, which drains into Charlotte Harbor. At Lake-
land the train divides, part going southward to Punta
Gorda (Route 151) and part westward to Tampa and Port
Tampa, there connecting with the Ward Line Plant Steam-
ship Line to Key West, Havana, New Orleans, and Mobile ;
also with coastwise steamers to Manatee River, the Pinellas
Peninsula, Orange Belt Railway, and the different Bay
ports (Routes 130 to 142).
The route passes through four counties, namely : Orange,
Osceola, Polk, and Hillsborough. For stations and dis-
tances, see maps and descrijitious in beginning of handbook,
and consult Contents.
161. Winter Park, Orange County.
Population, 600.— Lat. 28° 33' N.— Long. 81° 20' W.— Elevation, 92 feet
above St. John's River.
Hotels. — The Seminole. 14 a day. — Rorjers Hotel, f2 to $2.50 a day.
Railroad.— The South Florida Railroad, south to Tampa and Punta Gorda ;
the J. T. A K. W. north to Sanford, Jacksonville, etc. Three trains daily.
The Orlando & Winter Park Ry. to Orlando, 4 miles south.
2'rainway from station to hotels.
CAitrc/ies.— Congregational and Episcopal.
On leaving the train the traveller at once notes an air of
neatness and thrift in streets, houses, and stores. The busi-
ness blocks are mainly in the vicinity of the railroad station.
Elsewhere are charming cottages, often overlooking one or
another of the several lakes. Well-laid board walks are a
pleasant relief from the deep sand often encountered, and
convenient tramways and excellent livery stables afford fa-
cilities for those who would rather ride than walk. From
the observatory of the Seminole Hotel fourteen lakes are in
sight, though some of them can hardly be detected by a
stranger without the aid of a local expert. The outlook,
however, covers a most alluring lake region, set in a land of
wooded hills often rising boldly from the waterside, here
clothed with the native forest, and there showing the deep
green and gold of orange-groves. The largest lakes sur-
WINTER PARK. 277
rounding the town are Maitlaiid to the north, Osceola and
Virginia west and south, and Killarney east. Many of these,
as well as the smaller intervening lakes, are connected by
channels navigable often for launches, and always for small
boats, of v.hich there is a good supply at the hotel landings.
A steam-launch makes two round trips daily through Lakes
Osceola and Virginia (fare 25c.), a very pleasant excursion.
The I'ailway to Orlando, after passing between Lakes
Mizell and Virginia, skirts the north shore of the latter and
turns southward, crossing a creek to Lake Sue. Then, in
succession, are Lakes Estelle, Eowena, Formosa, Ivanhoe,
Highland, and Concord, the last within the borders of Or-
lando.
In the centre of the town is a public park of ten acres,
surrounding the railroad station, and the general i)lan of
streets and boulevards is excellent.
Within easy driving distance is Clay Spring, across which
strong swimmers strive iu vain to jiass, so powerful is the
upward rush of water through a dark chasm in the rock.
Lake Apopka, one of the large lakes of Florida, is twelve
miles to the westward, and to the eastward is a wide, un-
settled region, where hunters may find the large and small
game of the Florida woods.
Rollins College, situated on a high bluff overlooking Lake
Virginia, is open from October to May, inclusive. It has
handsome and well-appointed buildings, and is designed to
afford facilities for collegiate training to residents and to
Northerners whose health demands a mild winter climate.
Winter Park was a wilderness in 1881. It was founded
and developed by Messrs. Loring A. Chase, of Chicago, and
Mr. Oliver E. Chairman, of Canton, Mass.
278 ORLANDO.
162. Orlando, Orange County (C. H.).
Population, 10,000.
Hotels (rates by the day). — Charleston House, $3. — Magnolia Uoiise, $.2.50 to
$3. — Wilcox Hoitfc, %'i.— Windsor Hotel, $3.
Railroads. — South Florida, north to Sanford, Indian River, Jacksonville,
etc. ; south to Tampa and Punta Gorda. And the Tavares. Orlando & Atlantic
Railroad west to Tavares, Leesburg. etc.
Churches.— Koxaiva Catholic, Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Methodist.
JBanks. — National Bank of Orlando. — Orlando Loan aud Savings Bank.
In location and topographical surroundings Orlando is
identical with its more rural neighbor, Winter Park ; but as
a business centre, with the county court-houses, stores, manu-
factories, and the industrial activities of a rich and product-
ive region, it has a distinctive and, commercially speaking,
far more important life of its own.
From Orlando to Winter Park is a short and pleasant ride
by rail (4 miles, 25 minutes) or carriage road. To Tavares,
Leesburg, and Lake Apopka, there is direct and easy com-
munication by rail, and by the Orange Belt Railway to Tar-
pon Springs and the Pinellas Peninsula. All kinds of sup-
plies for hunting and fishing expeditions can be procured to
good advantage in the city, and guides can be secured for
extended hunting expeditions toward the headwaters of the
St. John's River, thirty miles to the eastward.
KISSIMMEE. 279
163. Kissimmee, Osceok County (C. H.).
Population (1890), 1,082. Lat. 28" 15' N.— Long. 81" 26' W.
Hotels.— J'/ic Tropical, $3.50 a, Aay. — The Kissiinmee House, Osceola Hotel,
South Florida Hotel. Board. $G to $10 a week.
Railroads.— The South Florida R. R. (J. T. & K. W. System). Sugar Belt
Ry.
Steamboats. — To Kissimmee River landings.
Methodist and Presbyterian churches.
The Kissimmee Bank. — Good general stores.
Livery. — Saddle horses, $2.50 a day, smgle teams, $3.50 a day.
Boats.— Launched, $10 to $15 a day, sail-boats, $3 to S6 a day.
Guides. — $1 a day or more, according to services required.
Tlie town is practically at the head of river navigation
from the Gulf of Mexico, by way of the Kissimmee River,
Lake Okeechobee, and the Caloosahatchee Eiver. (See
Routes 156 and IS! and maps, pp. 23 and 77.) It is situated
at the head of Lake Tohoi^ekaliga (" the lake of the cow-
pens "), a fine body of water, twelve miles long, and of an ir-
regular shape, nearly six miles wide at certain jjoints and
with numerous islands. Its greatest depth is fifteen feet,
and its normal height above tide-water, 64.59 feet. Five
miles northeast of Kissimmee is East Tohoj^ekaliga Lake ;
about five miles wide, irregularly square in shape, and with
its level slightly higher than that of its sister lake, with
which it is connected by a canal. These two lakes are at
the head of what may be termed the Kissimmee system,
including Lake Cypress (62 feet above tide-water). Lake
Hatchinea (60.23 feet above tide -water), Lake Kissimmee
(58.07 feet at tide-water). All these lakes were naturally
connected by channels little better than marshes, but these
have been enlarged by the operations of the Okeechobee
Drainage Co., and it is now possible for steam-launches and
sail-boats to go through to the head of the Kissimmee River,
a fine stream flowing southward fifty miles, " as the crow
flies," to Lake Okeechobee. The actual distance following
the tortuous river is not accurately known. The drainage
works have lowered the level of the upper lakes, rendering
fit for cultivation wide tracts of rich land previously una-
vailable. Sugar-cane has been planted in large quantities
along the lake shores ; and early vegetables, notably cauli-
flowers, have been successfully raised and shipped to the
280 KISSIMMEE— LAKELAND.
Northern markets early in Jannaiy. The other garden crops
— cabbages, beets, jjotatoes, tomatoes, and the like, are ready
for market in February and March.
Kissimmee is a convenient headquarters for sportsmen.
Reference to the map of Osceola County, p. 72, will show
that it is a frontier town, with no settlements whatever to the
south and southeast. There are, in fact, occasional cabins
and camps throughout the region that appears on the
maps uninhabited, but in effect it is a wilderness, inter-
sected with lakes and water-courses navigable for small
boats, and crossed by trails practicable for teams.
Guides, boats, horses, and camp equipage may be hired in
Kissimmee. There is no fixed schedule of i^rices, but favor-
able arrangements can usually be made through the proprie-
tor of the Tropical Hotel. The head- waters of the St.
John's River, running north, are from twenty to thirty miles
to the eastward. Lakes and branches are known to the
guides which considerably ]-educe the length of the carry
between the two streams. It is possible to descend to the
outlet of Lake Kissimmee, and thence carry over by way of
Lakes Jackson and Marian to the upper St. John's, which
is easily navigable to Lake Munroe. (See p. 197.)
164. Lakeland, Polk County.
Population, 800.— Lat. 28" N.— Long. 82" W.
Hotel. — Fremont Hmw-e, S3 a day.
Rah, WATS. — South Florida and Florida Southern.
A railway junction of some importance. The jirincipal
lines from the North cross here, bound for Tampa and Punta
Gorda. Lakeland is pleasantly situated amidst a cluster of
pretty lakes, and with an elevation at the railroad station of
214 feet above the sea (see map, p. 77). Lake Hancock, the
largest lake in the immediate neighborhood, is 8 miles south,
near Haskell Station, S. F. Ry. Numerous smaller ponds are
found in every direction, and good shooting is to be had
within easy driving distance. Lakeland was settled in. Feb-
ruary, 1884, under the management of a joint-stock laud
company.
iJARTOW. 281
165. Bartow, Polk County (O. H.)-
Population (1890^ 2,000.— Lat. 2T" 50'.— Long. 81" 53' W.
Hotels. — Orange Grove Hotel, Willard House, Wright House, Carpenter
House, $2 to $3 a day.
Railroads.— The Florida Southern Ry. (Charlotte Harbor Division) to Pnnta
Gorda. The South Florida Rd. (Bartow Branch) to Bartow, etc.
Bartow was settled in 1857, and was at first known as Fort
Blount, from B. B. Blount, of Georgia, who, with John Dav-
idson, an Irishman, were the first comers. Until the close of
the Civil War, it was little more than a frontier settlement,
but it is in the midst of a fine agricultural country, near the
southern limit of the great " rolling pine " region, with an
extensive hammock on one side and a prairie on the other.
Settlers soon began to locate claims in the neighborhood,
and when the railroad was finished to Punta Gorda, in 1882,
its ju'osperity became assured. The branch to Bartow, etc.,
was built in 1885, and farther increased its commercial
facilities. There are Baptist, Methodist, and Presbyterian
churches and a prosperous school, the Summerlin Institute,
which at present has about 300 pupils, and is considered
one of the best in the State. It was founded by Jacob
Summerlin, who gave the funds required and dedicated the
institution to "the poor children of Polk County." Bartow
is near the head-waters of Peace Kiver. To the southeast
is a flat pine region with numerous lakes and savannas,
and good shooting extending to the edge of the Kissimmeo
swamps. To the southwest, some 12 or 15 miles, are the
sources of the Manatee Biver, flowing through wild ham-
mock lands tenanted by all kinds of game. Bartow is a
good headquarters for sportsmen wishing to explore the
regions indicated.
282 PLANT CITY— JACKSONVILLE.
166. Plant City, Hillsborough County.
Population, 300.
The town stands at the junction of the Florida Central &
Peninsula and the South Florida railways (see map, p. 3G).
It is mainly built upon an " oak ridge," with an elevation of
128 feet above the sea. The underlaying strata are yellow
and gray sandstone. The first permanent settlement was in
January, 1884, on the completion of the railroad to this
point. The Pemberton Ferry Branch leads northward,
crossing the Orange Belt railway at Lacoochee, and the
Florida Southern at St. Catherine. The S. F. and F. C. &
P. railways run westward to Tampa. For stations and dis-
tances, see p. 48.
For Tampa and vicinity, see Routes 249 to 252.
170. Jacksonville to Ocala.
By J. T. & K. W. Ry. to Palatka, 56 miles (same as Route 40) ; thence by
Florida Southern Ry., 72 miles (running time 4 hours). There is a choice of
routes at Hawthorne (Waite's Crossing), where train may be taken down the
east side of Grange Lake, crossing its outlet, and passing through the great
o ange-groves of Citra to Silver Spring. The other route is to Ilochelle and
thence south through a beautiful country, west of Orange Lake, direct to Ocala.
The route via Rochelle is about 10 miles longer than the other. For stations
and distances see maps, pages 2 and 62, and tables in context, pp. 4, 5, 63, 64.
The trip by rail from Palatka westward, by the Florida
Southern Railroad, is pleasantly varied. After leaving the
high bluffs in the vicinity of Palatka, the line runs
nearly due west through a level pine-covered country, in-
clining slightly to the south and west, the hills reappear in
the vicinity of Mannville. Lakes are seen in the valleys, and
oaks, magnolias, bay, and gum trees intermingle with the
pines. In the clearings orange-groves have taken the place
of the native forest, especially at Interlacheu (Route 171),
where they are almost continuous. Near McMeekin the hills
rise to a noticeable height, interspersed with lakes and wet
prairies. From the train many attractive homes may be seen
on the hillsides, with every evidence of prosperous agricul-
JACKSONVILLE— INTERLACHEN. 283
tural industry. At intervals the line crosses five streams,
some of them in deep ravines. Two miles beyond Mc-
Meekiu is the line between Alaclma and Putnam Counties.
At Hawthorne (otherwise Waite's) is the crossing of the
F. C. & P., running north to Oravge Heights and Waldo,
south to Silver Spring, Ocala, etc. At Rochelle the line con-
tinues westward to Gainesville (Route 173). The Ocala train
turns sharply to the southward. Near liochelle, notice fine
symmetrical live oaks in the open country. The bays of
Orange Lake are in sight to the eastward as the train nears
Micanopy (Micanopy, 6 miles west, Route 175). Two miles
south of the junction is the Marion County line. The train
skirts wide reaches of saw-grass bordering Orange Lake, runs
for miles through heavy timber, cabbage-palms, and grass-
covered hills. The absence of the saw -palmetto in this
region renders the open woods very attractive for walks and
rides. It was a favorite hunting-ground of the native tribes,
and they made a stubborn fight before they could be driven
out. *
Should the route east of Orange Lake be preferred, change
cars at Hawthorne. The line crosses the lower part of the
lake, which has considerable area, but little depth. Stop if
possible at Citra (Route 172), for the orange-groves and
natural wells, and at Silver Spring (Route 182).
171. Interlaclieii, Putnam County.
Hotels. — Hotel Lagonda, $3 a dav. — Lakeview Hotel, 12.50 a day.
Rahroad.— The F. C. & P. R.R. '
Several beautiful lakes are visible from the railroad in
passing through this region. The two that give Interlachen
its name are Lagonda and Chipco. The surrounding country
is fine rolling woodland, \yme and hardwood intermingled,
and the town itself is very attractive in appearance. It has
several good general stores, a well-conducted public school,
and a pretty Congregational church. The great industiy is
orange growing, as is evident at a glance over the sviiTOund-
ing hills. A post-road leads northward to Putnam Hall
284 INTKRLAC'HKN— CITRA.
(8 miles), Etoniah (l-t miles), and McRae (19 miles), lying
among a group of lakes near the border between Clay and
Putnam Counties.
172. Citra, Marion County.
Hotel, $1.50 a day.
Railroad.— The F. C. & P. R.R.
The orange-groves of Citra are well worth a visit, for they
are among the largest and finest in the State. So extensive
are they that one may as easily be lost among the irregular
avenues as in the neighboring pine-forests. Citra is a station
on the F. C. & P. Railroad, at its junction with a branch to
Oak Lawn, a station on the Florida Southern Railway, six
miles west. Approaching from Hawthorne on the north, the
line crosses the shallows of Orange Lake after leaving Island
Grove station, and jiasses through the Bishop and Harris
orange-groves before reaching the station at Citra. The
branch railway to Oak Lawn, too, skirts the plantations for
several miles. The groves lie along the southern shore of
Orange Lake, within easy walking distance of the station.
Large packing-houses are beside the railway track, with all
facilities for ready shipment. Here may be seen all the most
approved methods of sorting and packing. Tramways lead
through the groves in all directions — almost a necessity, since
the trees are often so near together that passage for an or-
dinary wagon is impossible. These groves are, for the most
part, budded on wild stock, hence there is no regularity in
their arrangement. All through the tract stand superb for-
est trees, some of them dead or dying, and no longer objects
of beauty ; but they are allowed to stand as a protection
against frosts and high winds. One may walk or ride for
miles without once leaving the shade of orange-trees in full
bearing. From Citra station alone there were shipped, dur-
ing the season of 1889-90, nearly 250,000 boxes of oranges.
Near Citra are several of the curious natural wells j^eculiar
to this region. They are within easy walking distance, and
a guide can usually be found who, for a trifling fee, or, if a
white man, for nothing at all, will show the way.
GAINESVILLE. 285
173. GaineSYille, Alachua Couuty (C. H.).
Population, 1890. 2,766.— Lat. 29° 40' N., LoiiS- 82° 25' W.
Hotels.— (Rates by the day.) Arlington Hotel, $2.50 to S3, Brown House, $2
to f4 ; St. Nicholas, $1 to $3 ; Rockmont Home, S2..50 to .f3.
Kailroads.— The Gainesville Branch of tlie Florida Southern Ey. (J., T. k
K. W. System) has its terminus here, with through tains to Jacksonville and
the North; the Florida Central & Peninsula, S.VV. to Cedar Key, N.E. to
Fernandina. and the Savannah, Florida, & Western Railroad, N.W. to Way-
cross, etc. These railways have separate stations, those of the F. S. Ry. and
the S., F. & W. being adjacent.
Gainesville was named in honor of General Gaines, who,
as much perhaps as any man, was instrumental in bringing to
a successful termination the long war with the Seminoles. It
occui^ies a " black-jack ridge," the soil being sandy, under-
laid with clay at a depth of 2 to 20 feet. The locality was
settled about 1825 by one "Bod " Higgenbottom, but until
after the Indian War permanent inhabitants were few. The
surrounding country is very rich, and well adapted to graz-
ing and agricultural purposes. The East Florida Seminary
is a military school of excellent reputation. The daily
drills of the smart gray-clad cadets are well worth seeing,
and a visit to the seminary buildings and the adjoining bar-
racks may give the stranger some new ideas regarding the
educational institutions of Florida.
During the Civil War Gainesville had but one visit from
United States troopers. On February 1-4, 1864, Captain
George E. Marshall, of the Fortieth Massachusetts Infantry
(mounted), raided Gainesville under orders from General
Truman Seymour, the same who was so disastrously beaten
at Olustee one week later. Caiotaiu Marshall's raid was a
very bold one, leading him far from any possible support.
He held the place for two days against several attacks,
and after having distributed among the people of the town
such Confederate jDrovisions as he could find, he made good
his escape, rejoining Seymour, who was encamped at Bald-
win.
Gainesville is the best headquarters for visitors to the
many natural curiosities of Alachua County. In the imme-
diate vicinity are numerous lakes, the largest of which,
Alachua, has a somewhat remarkable history. It occuijies
2S6 GAINESVILLE.
what was formerly Payne's Prairie, so named from the chief
of the local Indian tribe. Through it flowed the surplus
waters of Newnan's Lake to a point near the middle of the
prairie, where the whole stream went down into an unfath-
omed abyss, known to the Indians as Alachua, variously
translated as " the bottomless pit," or " the place where the
waters go down." The whites, with excellent taste, took
Alachua for the county name, but called the chasm the " Big
Sink." The place became a favorite picnic resort, and par-
ties of visitors amused themselves by throwing in whatever
they could lay hands upon, even felling large trees to see
them disappear.
The natural result followed in due course, and in 1875
Alachua refused to swallow any more. Payne's Prairie,
thousands of acres of rich grazing laud, became a lake,
and so it remains to this day. It may be that eventually
Nature will reassert herself, and gradually cut a new sub-
terranean passage for the waters, which now find their way
into Orange Lake. Tuscawilla Lake, near the town of Mi-
cano-pj, on the contrary, was made permanent by the anxiety
of the owner to prevent the sink, a smaller one than that of
Alachua, from becoming choked. He attempted to curb it
with logs, but the bulkhead gave way and the passage be-
came permanently clogged.
The Devil's Mill Hopper, another curiosity of similar char-
acter, is five miles north of Gainesville, a bowl-shaped depres-
sion about three acres in extent, and 150 feet deep. The
sides of the bowl are covered with luxuriant vegetation, and
fifteen springs break from the rock, cascading down into
a pool at the bottom of the ho^jper, whose level has not
changed materially since the county was settled. Natural
wells are found all over the coimtry, especially in its west-
ern section. They are sometimes full of water, but often dry
and open to exploration. In diameter they measure two or
three feet, and are often thirty or forty feet deep, with sides
as smooth and regular as if cut by the hand of man.
King Payne, a Seminole chief, conspicuous in the vicinity
of Gainesville in the first decade of the present century, col-
lected a band of Indians and runaway negro slaves, and on
GAINESVILLE. 287
September 11, 1835, attacked a wagon train escorted by a
party of twenty Americans under Captain Williams. The es-
cort made brave fight till their ammunition was exhausted
when the suiA'ivors retreated in good ordei*. General Newnan,
for whom Newnan's Lake and Newnansville are named, was
soon on the march to avenge this attack, and met the enemy
in somewhat superior force on September 26th. Kiug
Payne was killed early in the fight, and the Indians were re-
pulsed, but when they learned of their leader's fall they re-
turned to the attack again and again, in the face of the
deadly Georgian rifles, and although thrice repulsed suc-
ceeded at last in forcing the Americans back, and recaptur-
ing their chief's body. The Americans were so badly cut
uj) that, after holding the position until October 4th, they
withdrew, and for the time gave up the attempt to occupy
the country.
The Land Office.
At Gainesville is the United States Land OflBce for the
State of Florida, and as the Government system of surveys
is often perplexing to strangers, a brief explanation is here
given :
The present system of Government surveys extends through-
out all the States and Territories, except the original thir-
teen States and Kentucky, Tennessee, Maine, West Virginia,
and Texas. It was inaugurated by a committee, of which
Thomas Jefferson, of Virginia, was chairman, apiDointed by
the Continental Congress. On May 7, 1784, this committee
reported an ordinance which, after much alteration and
amendment, was finally adopted May 20, 1785. Many sup-
plementary acts have since been passed, until the system is
now a model of accuracy, simplicity, and convenience. All
the maps in this Handbook are divided by a series of parallel
lines, running east and west, and others in like manner north
and south, dividing the map into little squares. Each of
these sqixares is a to'xnship of the public survey, and a knowl-
edge of their arrangement, the method by which they are
numbered and subdivided, is a matter of interest and impor-
tance.
288 GAINESVILLE.
As it is not practicable to begin a rectangular system of
survey ujDon the irregular border of a State, a convenient
point is chosen within its borders. A base line is established,
running east and west, also a meridian line, ruiining north
and south, crossing the base line at right angles. Townships
are surveyed from tliese lines.
Shortly after the acquisition of Florida by the United
States (1821), the intersection of the base and meridian lines
of the survey was fixed at Tallahassee, that being the centre
of political interest and influence, though obviously inconve-
nient for geograjihical reasons, since a meridian line at that
point could only be about thirty miles long within the State.
It did very well, however, for a base line, and the long offi-
cial meridians were laid oflf on the peninsula. On the fold-
ing map it will be seen that the squares are marked with
Roman numerals east and west from Tallahassee, while the
ranges are marked with Arabic numerals north and south
from the base line, on meridians of about 82' 32', 81° 10',
80° 15', etc. On the County maps Arabic numerals are used
throughout as being, upon the whole, more convenient.
I'owns/iips were first surveyed, and later, were subdivided
into sections.
A township is a tract of land six miles square, containing
thirty-six square miles, or 23,01:0 acres.
A row, or tier, of townships, running north and south, is
called a range of townships.
A section is a tract of land one mile square, forming one-
thirty-sixth of a township, and containing 640 acres.
The map of Leon County, page 52, shows the starting-
point of the Government survey, the base line, the meridian
line, and the county townships. It may be compared with
a complete map of the State. The village of " Ferrells" is
situated, you will find, in township 2, south of the base line,
range 1, east of the meridian. Centreville is iu township 2,
north ; range 2, east. The entire peninsula, however, and a
considerable part of Northern Florida, is south of the base
line and east of the meridian. Turning to the various coun-
ty maps, it will be found that Jacksonville is in township 2,
south ; range 26, east ; Sanford in township 19, south ;
GAINESVILLE.
2S0
range 30, east ; EauGallie in townsliip 27, south ; range 37,
east ; Kissimmee City in townsliip 25, south ; range 29,
east, etc.
In like manner, west of the meriflian of Tallahassee, we
find Quincy in township 2, north ; range 3, west ; and Pen-
sacola in township 1, south ; range 30, west.
Subdivisions. — Each township is subdivided into 36 sec-
tions,each section being one mile square, and containing G-iO
acres. These sections are arranged as shown herewith in the
diagram of a subdivided township.
Each section is, in turn, &x\hi\'\\i(\.eCi\nio quarter -sections ol
160 acres, and each quarter-section into quarter-quarter-sec-
tions, of 40 acres each. But wherever the lines of a section
come out irregularly upon the margin of a large lake, or
navigable river, or the sea-shore, the broken section is cut
up into fractional lots.
Now, should the reader see a description like this, for in-
stance : Southwest quarter of the northeast quarter of section
7, in township 4, soiith, range 2G, east, he will know that it
is a forty-acre tract, and he will discover, with the aid of a
map, that it lies ]ust west of Orange Park, in Clay County,
on the line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Kailway.
A land agent would write the same description in brief,
like this : S. W. i, of N. E. i, 7-— t— 26, S. & E.
6
5
4
3
2
1
7
8
9
10
11
12
18
17
20
16
15
14
13
19
21
22
23
24
30
29
28
27
26
25
31
32
33
34
35
36
A SUBDIVIDED TOWNSHIP.
19
Owing to the impossibil-
ity of absolute accuracy in
running survey lines by the
simple process of chaining
across uneven ground, the
divisions do not always con-
tain the exact number of
acres contemplated by the
system ; a quartei'-quarter-
section, for instance, some-
times contains a fraction
more or less than forty acres,
and so on, so that one must
always inform himself, if
290 GAINESVILLE— JACKSONVILLK
he wishes to be accurate in the matter of a particular tract.
This information may always be readily obtained by send-
ing a letter of inquiry, containing a description of the tract,
to the United States Surveyor-General, at Tallahassee, or the
United States Register of Lands at Gainesville.
171. Jacksonville to Leesburg.
By J. T. & K. W. Ry. to Palatka (see Route 40) ; Palatka to Ocala (gee Route
170;; Ocala to Leesbiirg by Florida Southern Railway, 34 miles (whole distance,
162 miles, running time, 7 hours); or by Fiorida Central & Peninsula (Southern
Division), 38 miles (whole distance from Jacksonville, 168 miles ; running time,
6 hours 39 minutes).
The line of the Florida Southern follov»s a southeasterly
direction from Ocala, passing near the site of old Fort King,
established in March, 1827, at the junction of six roads. It
was attacked by the Seminoles in force April 27, 1840. The
post was abandoned March 25, 1843. It was to this point
that Major Dade's command was marching when massacred
by the Indians in 1835. (See -p. 320.) After passing Lake
Weir and its adjacent stations (Route 185), the line runs al-
most due south, crossing into Lake County two miles south
of Foster Park. Chetwynd and Fiuitland Park will be no-
ticed as among the most prosperous of the Engli.sh colonies
in Florida (see Route 190).
The F. C. & P. follows a more southerly route, passing into
Sumter County (p. 85) near Dallas, and into Lake County
about one mile east of Bamboo. At Wildwood the Tampa
Division continues southward (see Route 140). This station
was named in 1885 by a pioneer telegraph operator, who,
finding himself at the end of his wire, reported to headquar-
ters, dating the despatch "Wildwood," for at that time there
was nothing else to be seen. From this point the line nins
a little south of east, through a country lising from level pine
into rolling hills and hammocks, till the lakes near* Leesburg
are in sight.
MICANOPY. 2D1
175. Micanopy, Marion County.
Hotel. — Tuscawilla, $2 a day.
Presbjterian, Methodist, and Baptist Chiirclics.— Micanopy High School.
Livery.- Saddle horses, 50 cents an hour ; $1.50 a day.— Carriages, etc., $1
to $2 an hour ; $5 to $10 a day.
Boats can be hired on the adjacent lakes.
Micanopy is named after a powerful Indian chief of the
early days, whose village was on the borders of tlie lake,
within the present limits of the town. They made gallant
fight for their homes. A military post was established here
April 30, 1837, and maintained till February 16, 18i3.
There were sharp fights with Indians on December 20, 1835,
and on June 9, 1836, prior to the erection of the fort, and a
formidable attack was made December 28, 1840. Besides
these engagements desultory bush fighting continued dur-
ing the whole period. The first settler was Dr. Payne, a
Virginian, who came here in 1835, and had few neighbors,
save the post garrison, until after the subjugation of the In-
dians. Micanopy (accent on the penult) is now a prosper-
ous town, surrounded by rich hammock lands and productive
plantations. It is the terminus of a spur of the Florida
Southern Railway, four miles from Micanopy Junction.
Good water-fowl shooting and fishing is to be found in
the several large lakes in the immediate vicinity, and all
kinds of Florida game abound within a few miles to the
south and west. There are in this neighborhood vast tracts
of woodland through which one may ride, drive, or walk all
day without a beaten trail and rarely seeing a human habita-
tion. This region was the birthplace of the Indian war
which involved the whole State. A brief historical sketch
is appended.
The Seminole or Florida Wars.
Shortly after the second war between the United States
and Great Britain (1812-11), Florida being at the time under
Spanish dominion, the mixed tribes of Seminoles, Creeks,
and runaway negroes began to commit depredations on the
frontiers of Alabama and Georgia. No redress could be ob-
tained from the Spanish authorities, and British residents
292 MICANOPY.
were not averse to instigating hostilities. At length, in the
spring of 1818, Generals Jackson and Gaines were ordered
to carry the war into Florida, which they did so effecttially
that it was speedily ended. Incidentally the Americans
were obliged to capture Pensacola and St. Marks, both occu-
pied by Spanish garrisons, which made only a show of resist-
ance. Two Englishmen, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, were
hanged, having been tried by court-martial and found guilty
of stirring up the Indians to war. The territory was oc-
cupied by United States troops Tintil Spain evinced the
intention and ability to restrain the Indians, when our troops
were withdrawn. The part borne by the two Englishmen
appears to have been pretty clearly demonstrated, for Great
Britain never called the United States to account for the
matter. This ended the First Seminole War.
The second war was the natural consequence of annexa-
tion to the United States, and the rush of settlers southward.
The later periods of Spanish rule were characterized by a
more jiacific policy toward the Indians than was the case at
first. So, too, with the period of English dominion. The
Indians were practically undisturbed so long as they behaved
themselves, which, it may be added, they generally did, even
as the scant remnant of the tribe that still haunts the Ever-
glades is behaving itself to this day, so long as it is left
alone.
With the opening of the country to American settlement
there came an abrupt change. The aggressive, lawless ele-
ments of the then frontier States of Georgia, Alabama, and
Mississippi could now do openly what they had been doing
for a generation in an underhand way — namely go in and
possess the land. Nominally certain boundaries were to be
respected but in practice these were ignored, and in 1822
Colonel Gad Humphreys was appointed agent to negotiate a
treaty. At this time the Seminoles numbered about 4,000
souls all told, including several hundred negro slaves. They
had their plantations and villages, and though annoyed by
the encroachments of the Whites they looked for redress and
protection to their " Great Father " at Washington.
After some preliminary negotiation, a meeting of chiefs
MICANOPY. 29;i
and. commissioners was avvangod at Fort Moultrie, five miles
south of St. Augustine, and a treaty was signed substantially
guaranteeing certain districts to the Indians. This was in
September, 1823, shortly after the acquisition of Florida.
The twelve years that followed gradually led up to open
liostilities through the usual encroachments on the part of
the whites, and resistance and sometimes retaliation on the
part of the Indians. In May, 1832, a treaty was executed at
Payne's Landing on the Ocklawaha, whereby a considerable
body of the Seminoles agreed to remove west of the ]\Iissis-
sippi if on inspection the country proved desirable. Before
this plan could be carried out, however, the opposing faction
under Osceola and Micanopy began open resistance b}' mur-
dering the leader of the friendly chiefs and the unsuspecting
officers at the agency, and almost simultaneously waylaid
and massacred Major Dade's command. Then followed
seven years Qf fighting that seemed at times almost hope-
less. No one who is unfamiliar with the peculiar topograph-
ical conditions of Florida can appreciate the difficulty of
outmancEuvring such a wily foe as the Seminole. Gradu-
ally, however, they were pushed southward, still fighting
desperately. The last general engagement was fought on
Christmas-day, 1837, on the northern shore of Okeechobee
Lake, a hand-to-hand struggle in the depths of a horrible
swamp. The Indians were beaten and never afterward faced
the Americans in force. The war was continued, however,
by small parties, until 1842, when, their principal chiefs
having been captured or killed, and their numbers largely
reduced by surrender and removal, peace was finally se-
cured. A few hundred determined to make the Everglades
their home rather than leave their native land altogether,
and as they could not be caught they were finally allowed to
remain unmolested. Some of the more important incidents
of this war are described in connection with the localities
where they occurred. It cost the United States about 1,500
lives and §20,000,000 in money to subjugate this gallant and
in the beginning peaceably disposed race.
294 o(;ala.
180. Ocala, Marion County (C. H.).
Population, 1890, n,400.— Lat. 29" 10' N.— Long. 82" 05' W.
Hotel. — The O'-nln. |4 a day.
Railroads. — The Florida Sunthorn Railway (-1., T. 4 K. W. Sy?tem\ north
to Jaeksonvillp ; soutli to Lcfstui'-rr, etc. Floridu f'cntral & Peninsula Rail-
road, north to Fcrnandiiw ; soiilh l<i lirdoksvil'.c, I);idc Cty, etc. Silver Spring,
Ocala .t Gulf Kailway. east to Silver Sprint; and thfOrlilawaha ; west to Uomo-
eassa (all separate stations, but withlu teu miuutes dr.ve, fare 2jc.).
Few inland cities in Florida are more favorably situated
than Ocala for a iDrosperoiis commercial future. In the
midst of an exceptionally rich agricultural region, and at the
junction of important railroads, it would seem that her pres-
ent prosperity may fairly be expected to increase. Kecent
discoveries of wonderfully rich phosphate beds in the im-
mediate vicinity have made her a sort of exchange for trans-
actions connected with the phosphate interest. The name
Ocala means, in the Seminole tongue, green or fertile land.
After crossing the Oklawaha in his march northward, in
1539-40, De Soto came upon a large Indian village, contain-
ing, according to the Spanish account, some six hundred
dwellings. This was Ocali, or Ocala, and De Soto, after his
usual custom, first made friends with and afterward nearly
exterminated the peaceably disjDosed natives. It is satisfac-
tory to know that it cost him a sharp fight. The precise lo-
cation of the village is believed to have been a short distance
to the eastward of the present city, perhaps near the site of
old Fort King, a military post established in 1827 and main-
tained until 1843. The fort was the nucleus of the early set-
tlement. It was the scene of the first Seminole attack upon
a United States post. The Indians had been quarrelling
among themselves, and had committed some outrages upon
white settlers, but it was not known that they were on the
warpath. On December 28, 183-5, they suddenly aj^peared
at Fort King, waylaying and killing General Thompson, the
Indian commissioner, and several others who were outside
the fort.
Modern Ocala owes its existence to the convergence, since
1880, of the railroads, and to an incorporated association,
the Ocala Company, which has built the large hotel and de-
veloped the resources of the place. In November, 1883, the
OCALA. 295
to-wu was almost wliolh' burned, l)ut has been rebuilt on a
more permanent plan. In the immediate neighborhood of
the public square are handsome buildings, containing banks
and shops of all kinds. In 1888-89 the opening of the Semi-
tropical Exhibition, in a building erected for the purpose,
attracted to Ocala contributions from all over the State, but
more especially from Marion and the adjacent counties. The
resiilt was an exhibition of products that fairly surpassed the
hojDes of its projectors. Citrus fruits of all kinds were shown
that had been grown side by side with excellent cereals, and
the array of native grasses suitable for fodder, of native
woods of all kinds, and of textile fabrics made from palmetto
fibre and pine needles, was most interesting and suggestive.
It is understood that hereafter the exhibition will open every
other year, alternately with the Subtropical Exhibition at
Jacksonville.
Within easy reach of Ocala are numerous points of interest,
accessible in some cases by I'ail and in others by carriage or
in the saddle. Among these are :
Silver Spring (see Route 182), the most famous of all in
Florida. It is within easy driving or walking distance (5.}
miles), the road winding mainly through open woods. By
keeping nearly due east one cannot go far astray, for the
Ocklawaha cypress swamp presents an impassable barrier
about 64 miles from Ocala, and the railroad is a safe land-
mark to the northward. Excursion tickets at low rates are
sold, including a fascinating trip by steamboat down Silver
Spring Eun to the Ocklawaha and return.
Blue Spring (see Route 183). Twenty miles west (1 hour),
by S. S., O. & G. Ry. Descend Blue S^jring Run (5 miles)
to Dunnellou and return by rail. The morning train west
reaches Blue Spring about 8.30 a.m., giving ample time for
a leisurely voyage down the run, with time to visit the phos-
phate works, and return to Ocala by afternoon train (con-
sult local time-tables). There is a good hotel at the
Sirring.
The Ockhtwalia (see Route 181) may be ascended to Lees-
burg or descended to Palatka by taking boat at Silver
Spring.
290 OCALA— THE OCKLAWAHA.
Lake Weir (seo Ilonto 157). By F. S. Railway, 32 miles
(1 hour 45 m.). Boats are lor Lire on the lake, which is
nearly circular in shape and three miles across. (Hotel, 77<e
CJiautauqua House.)
Drives, etc. — In almost any direction there are charming
drives through open hammock or rolling pine woodland.
With a suitable vehicle, or on horseback, one may often
ignore the roads altogether. For explorations of this kind
a pocket compass is indispensable, as it is impossible for a
stranger to keep his bearings. Good .shooting may be
reached -within an hour of the hotel. There is no good fish-
ing within easy reach, Lake Weir being the nearest of large
size. In Blue Sj^ring and Silver Sjiring the water is so clear
that fish can be seen more easily than they can be taken.
There are numerous small ponds scattered about the vicinity,
in most of which there are bream, jDerch, etc.
A good ma]) of Marion County, on a scale of one-half inch
to the mile, was jiublished by the county commissioners in
1888. It will be found useful to all who wish to dispense
with guides.
181. The Ocklawaha.
By steamboat. — Palatka to Silver Spring, 135 miles (20 hours).
The name is Seminole, meaning, freely translated, " dark,
crooked water." The stream is navigable from its junction
with the St. John's, twenty -five miles above Palatka, to its
soiirce in Lake Griffin, about fifty miles as the crow flies,
but probably two hundred miles as the river runs. There
are thi'ee points of departure for the Ocklawaha, namely,
from Palatka, Ocala (near Silver Spring), and Leesburg.
Tlie usual route is between Palatka and Silver Spring, either
ascending or descending. The boats are necessarily small,
but are comfortable, and the service good. The trip occu-
pies twenty hours, more or less, the conditions of naviga-
tion rendering piinctuality impossible. To and from Lees-
burg, on Lake Griffin, adds about seventy miles to the
distance,
THE OCKLAWAHA. 297
The Ocklawalia affords, under comfortable travelling con-
ditions, an interior view of a great cypress swamp, such as
cannot otherwise be obtained in Florida. Since the voyage
cannot be accomplished by daylight, an opportunity is af-
forded to witness navigation by torchlight under exception-
ally favorable circumstances. Tlie use of firearms is very
properly prohibited on all the boats, and as a result the wild
creatures of the swanijj have become quite fearless, alligators
often lying still on their favorite logs while the boat passes,
while herons, eagles, owls, and other denizens of the forest
hardly take the trouble to flap lazily from their perches.
"When promiscuous firing was allowed, animal life along
the river was almost exterminated, and human life on the
boats was constantly imperiled. The wisdom of jorotecting
the game must now be evident to all save the most incon-
siderate.
The extreme crookedness of the stream, which may be
likened to a series of capital S's, is such that a i^eculiar re-
cessed wheel and a double steering gear is necessary. It is
intei'esting to stand on the upper deck immediately above
the stern-wheel and watch the operation of the i^eculiar me-
chanism when turning a sharp curve. The skill of the negro
pilots, and the strength and endurance displayed by them in
steering this complicated course is well worthy of notice.
Some little caution is advisable for passengers on the
iipper deck, as the rail is often swept by the boughs of trees,
and serious accidents have occasionally befallen heedless
travellers. It is only necessary, however, to keep a bright
lookout. There is always time enough to get out of the
way, and, when practicable, the boat's officers give warning.
Canoeists and others contemplating camping expeditions
along the Ocklawaha should take into account the infre-
quency of practicable camping places. More than nine-
tentlis of the distance is through a dense growth of partly
submerged cypress, and only at a few points does dry land
approach the channel.
The following list of landings, localities, and distances
from Palatka was made out by Captain J. E. Manucy, of the
steamer Astatula, who began life on the Ocklawaha when
25) S
THK OCKLAWAHA.
barges propelled by i)oles wei'e the only craft in use, and
Seminole arrows were always among the chances of the day's
experiences. The names are mainly those in vogue among
the bargemen in the early days of pioneer navigation :
MILES
Ila-t's Grove 1
Rolleston 2-^
White's Road 2)4
San Mateo 6
Dana's Creek T
Brown's Lauding 7J^
Murphy Island Sti"
Buffa'o Bluff 9>i
Hamlin's Old Store 12
Horse Landing 16
Satsuma 18
Kashua 19
Root's Wnarf 20
Three Sisters 22
VVelaka 25
Mouth of Ocklawaha i'>M
Double S. S 28
Boyd's Creek 29 I
Bear Island 31 I
Davenport 32
Toney's Hole 33
Poo '"Man's Labor (Pinner's) 37
Narrows 39
Freeborn's Cut 39)^
Riverside 40 j
Deep Creek 43 j
Jac 'i Gates 44 \
Turkev Creek 45 ]
Blu3, or Salt, Spring 43 j
Cedar Landing 50 j
Jam Log 52 j
Agnew's Landing 53
Turkev Foot 54 i
Fort Brooke 56 '
Jordan's Landing 5T
Orange Creek (O. Spring Land- I
ing) : 51^'
Oranse Sprins Shoals 58
Needle's Eye " 59 .
Enoch & Collins' Landing 60
(Here note the re-entrant bends. )
Gray's Cut . . 61 :
McBride's Landing 61M
Twin Palmettos (west bank) 62
I-oug Reach 63
lud.an Bluff 64 ,
Harper's Ferrv 65 !
Bii.' Eddv ...." 66 I
Matchett's Shoals 67 I
Tobacco Patch 67^
MILES
Hart's Secession Camp 68
Payne's Landing 69
Douglas Landing 69)^
lola 70
Well's Landing 72
Forty-foot Biulf 74
Rough and Ready Cut 75
Chief's Sign 77
Log Landing 81
Eureka Cut-off 84
Eureka 85
Cypress Gate 85^^
Pine Island 87
Sunday Bluff 90
Twin Cypress (east bank) 91
Bear Tree 93
Star Island 93}^
Suudav Run 94
Fern Tree 94}is
Hogau's Landing 95
Pin Hook 96
Hell's Half Acre (island) 97
Park's Landing 98
Dodger Island 99
Gore's Landing 100
Brush-heap 102
Straits of " Dardin Kenels " 103
Osceola's Old Field 103
Durisoe's Landing 106
Rogers'Cnt .108
Stua -t Creek 109
Chitty's Avenue 110
Palmetto Grove Ill
Long's Landing 113
Mill View 114
Grahamville 115
Howard's Landing 116
Shmetavlor 120
McKro'ikl's Old Field 123
D.'lk's Bluff 125
Silver Sprinsr Run 123
White Oak Laiuliiit,' 127
HeMngton's Landing 129
Rogers' Grove 130
Marshall's Landing .131
Pasteur's Landinsr 132
Robinson's Liinding 134
Turpentine Still Landing 13414
Jacob's Wells 134>J'
Silver Springs 135
SILVER SPRIN(i. 2*J0
182. Silver Spring;, Marion County.
Hotel. — Silver Springs Hotel, $3 a day.
Railroad.— The Florida Central and Peninsula, north to Jacksonville (129
miles), west to Ocala (3 miles). Tickets good in either direction are sold
from St. Augustine or Palatka.
Steamers. — To Palatka and Leesburg via the Ocklawaha. (See Route 153.)
Silver Spring Run. — The cliauge from the dark brown
water of the Ocklawaha to the crystal transparency of Sil-
ver Sjiring Enn is almost startling. The run is 9 miles
long, and clear as the water seems at the mouth it is still
clearer at the source. There is some reason to believe that
De Soto visited this wonderful spring on his march of dis-
covery and conquest in 1539, and if he did so it is hardly to
be wondered at if he thought he had discovered the verita-
ble fountain of youth. It is the most famous spring in
Florida, perhaps because it is the most accessible, for there
are others that are not unworthy rivals, each having some
charm peculiar to itself that leaves the visitor in doubt as
to which is the more beautiful.
At the ordinary height of water, according to careful
measurements made by Dr. D. G. Brinton, the spring dis-
charges daily over three hundred million gallons of
water, more than three hundred times as much as is car-
ried by the Croton Aqueduct of New York, and 750 times
as much as is delivered by the new Liverpool water-works
at Vyrnwy, Wales. The same observer found the uniform
temi^erature 72.2° F. The surface level of the spring va-
ries at different seasons sometimes as much as 3 feet. It
is ajDt to be highest after the summer rains. At all seasons,
however, it discharges a stream of suflficient volume to float
river steamers of moderate size. The water rushes upward
through dark fissures in the limestone rock, keeping beds of
white sand in constant agitation. It is "hard" water, not
good to drink, but of such marvellous transparency that the
bottom is distinctly visible at depths of 60 to 100 feet.
There are five principal oi^enings through which the water
rises near the spring head, and others occur at intervals
along the run. At one of them, known as "The Bone-
yard," about two miles down the run, the dismembered
300 SlLVKIl SPRINO.
skeleton of a mastodon has l)cen found. Fully to appreci-
ate the wonders of this fascinating spot one should explore
it at leisure in a small boat. Even when seen from the
deck of a steamer the run affords a strange series of pict-
ures, the like of which are hardly to be found elsewhere.
Fish abound in all these springs, but owing to the clearness
of the water they are not easily taken.
Every traveller will hear it asserted that the water of Sil-
ver Spring, as indeed of all oth?r springs of like transpar-
ency, has a magnifying power. This is obviously a delusion
where the surface is level, since a curved surface of the
denser medium, glass or water, is necessary to produce ap-
l^arent enlargement. Occasionally, in a boiling spring dis-
torted fragmentary glimpses of magnified objects may be
caught where the surface momentarily rises to a convex
form. Even wdien the water is quiet, however, the illusion
is favored by its very high refractive power, which distorts
objects not directly beneath the spectator's eye. Thus an
approximately level bottom seems, when viewed from a
small boat, to be a hemispherical depression with only a
foot or two of depth at the rim, but as the boat moves the
depression seems to move also, the gi'eatest depth remain-
ing directly beneath the boat.
BLUE SPRING. 301
183. Blue Spring, Marion County.
(Post-office, Juliette.)
Hotel — The Coitarrc Hotel, f2 a clay.
Sinff^c teams, f 2 to $2.2.5 a day. Double teams. 14 to $5 a day. Boats down
Blue River. $1, or Si. .50 with oarsman. Stea-m Launch to Dulinellon and re-
turn, $1 apiece for party, or $1.5 to $20 if chartered for the day.
Guides, f 1 to $2.50 a "day.
Blue Spring is a station on tlie Silver Springs, Ocala & Gulf
Railroad, 20 miles west of Ocala. The spring, named Wekiva
by the Seminoles and Las Aguas Azul by the Spaniards, is
one of the most beautiful in Florida, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of bluffs covered with a fine growth of magno-
lia, hickory, live oak, bay, and the like, interspersed with
pine. The spring is 350 feet wide, of a color that varies
from blue to green, owing to unexplained conditions or
to individual perception of color. So clear is the water and
so high its refractive jiowers that, looking from the bank,
a stranger cannot be convinced that the basin is more than
three or four feet deep. It is a favorite jiastime among the
newly arrived to lay wagers regarding the depth and then
paddle out and take soundings with an oar. The actual
depth is 25 feet or more. The spring derives much of its
peculiar beauty from the wonderful vegetation that rises in
endless variety of color and form along the rocky dykes
and sand-bars of the bottom. To float upon the absolutely
invisible water above these fairy-like bowers is an experience
never to be forgotten. The water boils up through a broad,
and no doubt a very deep-bed of pure white sand, in vol-
ume sufficient to forma considerable stream — not nearly so
large, however, as Silver Spring Run. All along the banks,
too, are other lesser springs, overhung by ferns and vines
that rival those beneath the surface of the water. Soon
after the completion of the railroad a number of loaded
jiercussion artillery shells were found in shoal water in
the spring. They were no doubt relics of the Civil War,
but their presence here has never been accounted for, as
no military force is Iniown to have visited the i)lace.
Visitors should not fail to go down the run to Dunnellon,
302 liLUE SPRING— DUNNELLON.
either by steam launch or in a row-boat. The distance,
allowing for tlie windings of the stream, is about 6 miles,
and the whole trip is a series of surprises. Here and there
are deep rocky chasms through which fresh volumes of water
boil upward, and at frequent intervals other springs burst
from the banks, sometimes utilized to turn water-wheels and
each i^ossessed of some peculiar charm of its own. The lower
reaches of the run are bordered with cypresses and fre-
quented by garfish, turtles, and alligators. Dunnellon is at
the junction of the "Withlacoochee, and thence, if desired,
the train may be taken back to Blue Spring. To row back
against the swift current with such boats as are available
calls for a good three hours of hard work.
A word of warning in regard to bathing. The water is so
pure that its siDecific gravity is low. Hence it is harder to
swim in. Oue may easily dive to a great dei)th, but it is
not so easy to reach the surface again, and inexperienced
swimmers may readily find themselves in trouble.
184. Dunnellon, Marion County.
Hotel.— TAc Rcnfro House, SI. 50 a day.
Railroads.— The Ocala, Silver Springs, and Gulf Railrcad northeast to
Ocala (20 miles), southwest to Homosassa (28 miles).
Near the confluence of the Withlacoochee and Blue Riv-
ers the laud rises into hammock-covered bluffs, affording an
excellent site for a town. A large tract was acqiiired by a
land company in 1887, and considerable money was laid out
in a railway station, cutting avenues through the forest,
and making the beginnings of a populous community. A
park was set apart near the junction of the rivers and a
hotel, church, and schoolhouse were built shortly after the
completion of the railroad, which here crosses the With-
lacoochee. The locality is attractive, and the land of excel-
lent quality. It was not, however, until the summer of 1889
that the fabulous wealth underlying the soil was discovered.
There had been some passing excitement in the vicinity con-
cerning an alleged discovery of gypsum, and every one was
DUNNELLON. 303
on the lookout for specimens. Albert Vogt, of Dnnnellon,
picked up a chalky substance in the hammock, and handed
it to Mr. J. F. Dunn, who sent it to Ocala lor examination
by Dr. Rene SnoAvden, a chemist of that jjlace. Analysis
gave from sixty to eighty-one and a half per cent, of jihos-
phates, and specimens subsequently found ranged as high
as ninety per cent. The value of the discovery was at once
apparent, and the earth was drilled and quarried as if gold
were sought, instead of a really useful article of commerce.
The discovery in fact threw upon the market fertilizers of
such jnirity and strength that for some time it was not
known how they could be used. The area underlaid by this
extraordinarily rich deposit is not at this writing clearly do-
fined. It extends on both sides of the Withlacoochee River,
in a belt some forty miles long and six to eight miles wide.
The bed is usually about thirty feet thick, occasionally ex-
posed, but oftener ten to fifteen feet below the surface. It is
apjiarentlyan island of exceptionally rich quality, formed by
some unknown geological alchemy in the vast area of phos-
phatic rock that underlies the whole peninsula of Floiida.
That other similar specimens may be found is j^robable, and
indeed the experimental borings already made have brought
to light many minerals, of great interest to the geologist if
not of unsuspected commercial value.
Aside from the interest of the phosphate works, the visi-
tor will find the vicinity of Dnnnellon healthful and at-
tractive. Blue Spring and its outlet (see Route 153) are
beautiful beyond description. The Withlacoochee affords
good fishing, and along its banks is game in abundance.
Oarsmen will do well to remember that the current is swift
and strong, and that an hour's drift down stream means
three hours of hard work on the return. It is however a
pleasant trip to the mouth of the river, 15 miles distant.
A steam launch is best, considering the return up stream,
but arrangements can often be made to row down in a small
boat and return on a river steamer.
The "Withlacoochee is remarkable in that its general
course is northerly, like that of the St. John's on the Atlantic
coast. These are the onlv two Florida streams of anv cou-
o04 DUNNELLON— LAKE WEIR.
siflerable size that, with their tributaries, run northwaid,
while between them is the Kissimmee, running almost due
south.
185. Lake Weir, Marion County.
Lat. 28" 58' N.-Long. 81° 50' W.
Hotels. — Chautanqaa Houae, Lake Weir, $2 a day, $25 a month ; La!:e S.'de
Hotel, South Lake \\e.r.
Railroads. — The Fonda Southern; sonth to Leesbnrg ; north to Ocala.
The F. C. & P. Ey. passes 3 miles west of the lake.
Lake Weir is nearly round, and about three miles in di-
ameter. This makes no account of two large bays at the
western end, whicli increase the total length to 5 miles (N.W,
and S.E. ), and give it a total area of about 6,400 acres.
From the shores the laud rises into bluffs, often forty
or fifty feet high, which are largely occuiiied as villa sites
by winter ]esidents from the North, as well as by permanent
settlers whose orange-groves stretch back to the border of
the pine forest. An excellent road makes the circuit of the
lake, a drive of twenty miles, which can easily be covered
in three hours. The hotels are well supplied with steam-
launches and sail-boats, which are for hire at reasonable
rates. The lake is deep, with clear water and a sandy bot-
tom, and well stocked with fish. In the vicinity are seven
post-offices, among which it is desirable to distinguish if
letters are expected. Lake Weir P.O. is at the north side
of the Lake. Here are the ' ' Chautauqua " grounds, with a lec-
ture hall. Hood's Seminary, and stores. Two miles east is
Ocklairaha Station P.O., through which mns the road from
Lake Weir to Moss Bluff on the Ocklawaha River (3 miles).
Three miles south is Eastlalce P.O. Two miles south is
Staunton P.O. One and a half mile farther south is Foster
Park P.O., and south of this again. South Lake Weir P. 0.
In the soiithwestern part of the lake, nearly completing
the circuit of the shores, are four islands, two of them of con-
siderable size and under cultivation. West of these islands are
the broad bays above referred to, and at frequent intervals
along the shores of lake and bays are charming country seats
and rich plantations. Between the larger lake and the Ockla-
LAKE WEIR— LEESBURO. 305
waba, on a strip of land some four miles wide and six miles
long, are thirty or more small lakes and ponds, offering a
pleasing variety to sportsmen who love an all-day tramp
with rod or gun.
190. Leesburg, Lake County (C. H.).
Population, 1890, 1,200.
Lat. 28° 45' N.— Long. 81° 53' W.
Hotels. — Union, Central, Lake City. Leeshurg, $2 a day ; $8 to $10 a week.
Railroads. — Florida Central & Peninsula, to Ocala, Jacksonville. Tavares,
etc. Florida Southern to Jacksonville, Brooksville, Punta Gorda, etc.
Steamboats daily to all points ou the lakes ; weekly down the Ocklawaha
River.
Saddle horses, 25c. an hour, $2 a day. Single team, 50c. an hour, S3 a day ;
double team, 75c. an hour ; $4.50 a day.
Kow-boats, 50c. a day. Sail-boats, 50c. an hour ; $5 a day.
Guides for hunting and fishing. Special terms are made according to extent
of trip.
Leesburg was practically built up around the County
Court House which was placed here in 1868, as a compro-
mise between the claims of adjacent towns. There were
only two or three settlers' cabins on the isthmus at the time,
and for several years jjrogress was almost impercejatible. lu
1885 the first railroad came, followed in 1887 by others, and
since then its growth has been very rajjid.
The Cential Lake region of Florida includes Lakes Apop-
ka (73 sq, miles), Harris (28 sq. miles), Griffin (15 sq. miles),
Eustis (13 sq. miles), Dora (9 sq. miles). Little Lake Harris
(8 sq. miles), Yale (8 sq. miles). Lakes Harris, Griffin, and
Eustis (see map, page 46) are close together, with Leesburg
on a neck of land between Griffin and Hariis. Lake Apop-
ka,-the largest of the group, is 4 miles southeast of Lake
Harris. Besides these larger lakes there are numerous
smaller ones in the immediate vicinity. The country sur-
rounding Leesburg is in the main rolling pine laud inter-
spersed with hammocks. Bold bluffs are of frequent occur-
rence along the lake shores, some of them still covered with
the native forest, others showing the regular dark-green
rows of orange-groves. lu the immediate vicinity of Lees-
20
306 LEESBURG.
burg there is a considerable extent of cleared land devoted
to the various garden crops as well as to oranges, lemons,
limes, and the like.
Five miles northwest of Leesburg, near the shore of Lake
Grifliu, is Fruitland Park, where one of the most successful
r of the English colonies is established. It numbers now
nearly 100 members, has a club, and is already an attractive
place for young Englishmen who find no satisfactory ojien-
ing at home. Full information may be obtained from Sta-
l^ylton & Co., Fruitland Park Colony, Polk County, Florida.
Excursions by boat on the lakes are among the attractions
of Leesburg, and the railroad facilities are such that many
interesting localities as, for instance, Lake Apopka, Lake
Weir, Lake Eustis, Mount Dora, and Fort Mason, may be
easily reached. By consulting the local time-tables return-
ing trains may be met at some other station. Thus one may
take the early train to Tavares, hire a boat, spend the day in
sailing and fishing, and catch the Leesburg train at Fort
Mason. Fairly good roads follow the shores of all the lakes,
as nearly as the conformation of the land permits. It is an
all-day ride or drive around any one of these lakes, and
somewhat monotonous withal, but there are fine forests —
pine and hardwood, occasional clearings or outlooks over
the lake, and with proper jjrovision for a midday picnic such
a trip may be very enjoyable.
All, or nearly all, the lakes in this vicinity are of clear pure
water with sandy bottoms, and are well stocked with the
usual fresh-water varieties of fish. Alligators, while not so
abundant as formerly, may be seen sunning themselves any
warm day along the lake shores, and water-fowl are plenty in
the season, though always wild.
Lake Aj^ophn, the second largest in the State, is 18 miles
long and 11 miles wide. It may be reached from Leesburg
by rail to Apopka station or through a canal from Lake Har-
ris.
LEESBURG. 3(1";
Dade's Massacre.
The first active outbreak of the Seminole \i-ar vcas on No-
vember 2G, 1835, when a friendly chief, Charley Emathla,
was killed near Micanopy at the instance of Osceola, leader
of the hostile party. Thereupon he began a series of at-
tacks upon solitary settlements, culminating -in the assassina-
tion of General Thompson and his companions near Fort
King, and the annihilation of Major Dade's command in
the Wahoo Swam}:). Dade left Fort Brooke, on Tampa Bay,
December 24, 1835, with reinforcements for Fort King,
near Ocala. The old military road ran a little north of east,
crossing both branches of the Withlacoochee, and skirting
the edge of the extensive swamps surrounding the forks of
the river, a favorite retreat of the Indians when hard pressed.
The command consisted of Captain Gardner's company of
the Second Artillery, and Captain Frazer's, of the Third In-
fantry, 110 strong all told. It was not known to the officers
that hostilities had actually begun at the north, and no pre-
cautions were taken to guai'd against ambuscade beyond
marching with loaded pieces. At ten o'clock on the morn-
ing of December 28th, the command was passing through
the pines and scrub jDalmetto, with a savanna of tall grass on
the right, close to the road. From a dense growth of pal-
mettos a withering fire was delivered by a large party of
concealed Indians, at a distance of 50 or 60 yards. Major
Dade was killed at the first fire, and although the column
was temjiorarily thrown into confusion, the men at once
rallied and cleared the palmettos with their bayonets, rout-
ing the Indians for a time. Captain Gardner, now in com-
mand, took advantage of the moment's respite to drag a few
logs together, forming a low, triangular breastwork, and be-
hind this every man lay down, loading and firing as best he
could till killed or disabled. There they all lay when a
searching expedition reached the place, six weeks later,
every man in his place, and most of them with their car-
tridge-boxes empty. One private soldier, Thomas by name,
who w'as wounded at the first firs, concealed himself in the
scrub and reached Fort Brooke the next day. Two others.
308 LKESHuim.
severely wouuded, were overlooked in the final massacre
and dragged themselves sixty-five miles through the woods,
reaching the fort two or three days later. Their accounts
agreed with those of a chief subsequently captured, to the
eifect that nearly half the detachment fell at the first fire.
The dead numbered 8 officers, 97 non-commissioned officers
and privates, and 2 civilians, 107 in all ; 3 men barely es-
caping with their lives.
So completely did the Indians overrun the country after
this that, although their main body of warriors was badly
punished by General Clinch, just below the forks of the
Withlacoochee, on December 31st, the news of the massacre
was not known at Fort King till February. The garrison at
Fort Brooke was not strong enough to venture out, and it
was not till early in that month that General Clinch was
sufficiently reinforced to resume the offensive. On the 20tli
he visited the scene of the massacre and buried the remains
of the victims, most of whom lay where they had fallen. In
1842 these were disinterred and removed to the mili-
tary burial-ground at St. Augustine. Francis Langdon
Dade was a Virginian, Brevet Major of the Fourth Infantry.
He was in command of the fated detachment because he
had volunteered to take the place of Captain Gardner, whose
wife was dangerously ill at Fort Brooke. Mrs. Gardner,
however, was sent to Key "West, and her husband hastened
after his company in time to resume his place at its head
and die with the rest.
The scene of this massacre is about 4 miles north of Dia-
gem Junction, at the crossing of the F. C. & P. and the F. S.
Railroads. (See crossed sabres on map, page 86.)
Sub-tropical Florida.
South of Latitude 27 N.
Wherever the cocoa-palm will grow and bear fruit per-
ennially for a generation or two, the conditions may be
said to be sub-tropical. In Florida the northern limit may
be placed at Jupiter Inlet for the Atlantic Coast, and at
Charlotte Harbor for the Gnlf. In other words, sub-tropical
Florida is that portion of the peninsula that lies south of
the 27th parallel. This includes Lake Worth and the Char-
lotte Harbor region, which have been described respectively
under Parts I. and II. of the Handbook.
At present, Biscayne Bay and the Florida Keys are jjrac-
tically the only inhabited and accessible jiortion of sub-
tropical Florida. The rest is a wilderness, with here and
there a hunter's cabin or an Indian camp. By far the great-
er part of the mainland is uninhabitable, and many of the
Keys are awash when there is a high spring tide, or a strong
wind setting shoreward. Others of them, however, are 8 or
10 feet above high-water mark, and are capable of cultiva-
tion, making delightful sites for winter residences, well
south of the frost line, and readily accessible. The main-
land abounds with springs and streams of fresh water, most
of it more or less impregnated with lime. The water of
Okeechobee and the Everglades is drinkable, as are also the
streams that flow therefrom. Almost anywhere in this re-
gion fresh water may be obtained, by drilling into the soft
calcareous rock to a depth of 15 or 20 feet, sinking a pipe
therein and fitting a pump on top. The water is at first
impregnated with lime, but this largely disappears with
use. On most of the Keys, rain water or distilled water
is preferred for drinking.
Signal service observations at Key West, since 1870, give
mean temperature as follows : Sjiring, 76,9" ; summer, 83.8° ;
autumn, 78.8° ; winter, G8.3°. These were noted early in the
morning, in mid-afternoon, and at eleven o'clock at night.
The average rainfall for the same period was : Spring, 6.10
310 SUB-TROPICAL FLORIDA— BISCAYNE BAY.
iuclies ; summer, 13.47 inches; auhimn, 14.80 inches; winter,
5.94 inches. The higliest recoftled temperature "was 97^
(Juno, 1880), and the lowest was 44° (December, 1878).
At the recently established signal station at Jupiter, near
the northern limit of the sub-tropical region, the averages
thus far stand as follows : Spring, 72.4° ; summer, 80° ;
autumn, 75.7° ; winter, 69.4°. Annual mean, 73.9°.
200. Biscajne Bay, Dade County.
Lat. 25° 25' to 25° 5(;' N.— Long. 80° 10' W.
Hotel. — Bay Vien\ at Cocoaimt G.ove, $10 a week.
Boats. — Good-sized sloop or j-avvl with two men, $50 a month. Sailboats $2
a day. Few good rowboats.
Means of access. — Sailing vesse'.s from Key West.
If natural advantages of climate, location, and surround-
ings are alone to be considered, Biscayne Bay may challenge
comparison with any part of Florida. At present the only
stated means of access is by way of Key West, whence mail
boats sail once a week. The trip (about one hundred and
fifty miles) may be made in a day, or it may take a week.
This is the only nominally " regular " passenger traffic. A
small steamer, the lola, has been advertised to run from Key
West to Miami, but no details of its actual sen-ice are at
hand. It is understood that the Key West and Havana
steamers from New York will land freight and passengers at
Cape Florida as soon as paying returns are assured.
The present inaccessibility of the bay excludes it from the
list of jjopular resorts, and its beauties and attractions are
known only to a few appreciative yachtsmen, hunters, fish-
ermen, and winter residents.
Lying along the southeastern curve of the great peninsula,
it is on the very edge of the Gulf Stream, and separated
from it only by a slender line of coral reefs and islands.
The trade wind blowing from the ocean keeps the day tem-
perature in fair weather at an avei'age of about 73° F. The
habitable part of the mainland is a ridge of coralline rock,
often not more than four or five miles wide, that separates
the bay from the everglades.
biscayist: bay. 311
Through this ridge, at several different points, streams of
•nonderful beauty have cut channels through the rock, and
all along shore there are boiling springs of greater or less
energy, yielding j^ure, soft water in unfailing abundance.
The bay itself is about forty miles long by six miles wide.
It is separated from the ocean by a long peninsula that
reaches southward from the mainland until the sea breaks
through at Norris Cut and Bear Cut, forming Virginia Key
and Key Biscayne. The southern extremity of the latter is
known as Cape Florida, and is marked by a fine old light-
house tower, and the ruins of the keeper's house. The light
was discontinued on the completion of the Fowey Rocks
light, six miles southeast. The premises, with their pict-
ures pie ruins, are now leased from the Government by the
Biscayne Bay Yacht Club, whose headquarters are at Cocoa-
nut Grove, just across the bay. South of this cape is the
main oijening between the bay and the ocean, a broad pas-
sage five miles wide, full of shifting sand-bars, but with
several good channels, through which vessels of ten feet
draught may pass at low w^ater.
In the bay itself are, alternately, sand-bars and wide
reaches of navigable water, rendering navigation difficxilt for
all save sharpies and boats of very light draught. There
is, however, deep water and a good anchorage just inside
the cape, and ten feet draught may be carried through the
mid-channels of the bay.
Cocoanut Grove (P.O.) is the most considerable settlement
on the bay. Here is the only hotel south of Lake Worth,
and here the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club has its headquar-
ters. Several Northern yachtsmen spend the winter months
in this delightful haven, where as good hunting and fishing
is to be found as anywhere in Florida, and where the north-
ers are tempered by the everglades on the one hand and the
ocean on the other.
Miami (P.O.), lately the county seat, is at the mouth of
Miami Eiver, the site of old Fort Dallas, a considerable
military post during the Seminole War. It was established
in January, 1838, and abandoned June 10, 1858. The ruins
of the old fort, with some of the barracks, still standing and
'>i'2 BIS(L\YNE HAY.
occupied as dwellings, are on the north side of the river.
On the south side are several houses and a store, the latter
being in effect an Indian trading station, where the Semi-
noles barter alligator hides from the Everglades, and dispose
of such other trojjhies of their lifles as are not needed for
home consumiition. It is not uncommon to find two or
three canoes moored at the wharf, with an indefinite number
of squaws and papooses on board, and a sujjijIv of fresh meat
in the shape of turtles, and a live pig or two. In the woods
between Miami and Biscayne, sj^ecimens of the Royal Palm
{Oreoduxa Regia) are found growing wild, and the curious
"gumbo limbo," or West Indian birch (Bitrsera gummifera),
is of frequent occurrence.
The Miami River. — For about four miles from the bay the
stream is from 150 to 200 feet wide, and may be ascended by
sailboats. It divides into the north and south forks about
three miles from the mouth, both of them swift, clear
streams. The north fork has imjiassable rapids, but the
south fork can be ascended in small boats to its outlet from
the Everglades, about six miles from the bay. The grasses
and other aquatic plants that cover the bottom of the stream
are wonderfully beautiful in their varied color and graceful
movements as they are swayed to and fro by the clear rush-
ing water. Sailing about the bay in any direction with a
suitable shallow-draft boat is the jjerfection of smooth-
water cruising. Among the points of especial interest are
the following ; distances are given from Cocoanut Grove.
Biscai/ne Baif House of Refuge (12 miles). — This station is
situated on a lonely beach about seven miles north of Norris
Cut. There is good shooting in the hammock and along the
ridges at Bay Biscayne. Three miles south of the station is
the Crocodile Pond, a small, land-locked pool midway be-
tween the bay and the ocean, which, for some reason, is the fa-
vorite resort of the crocodile (Crocodilus Acutxs, Floridiensis),
as distinguished from the common alligator of the fresh-
water swamps. The principal difference is in the sharper
nose, more formidable teeth, and fiercer disposition of the
crocodile, and in the different articulation of his jaws, both
of them being hinged, whereas in the case of the alligator
biscayjS'e bay. 313
only the lower one is liiuged. The alligator is rarely
dangerous, but the crocodile, it is said, will attack a man if
he thinks he has a reasonable chance of success. For this
reason strangers are recommended to exercise some caution
in visiting this pond.
Arch Creek (15 miles). — Near the head of the bay. A
wonderfully beautiful stream, flowing in a strong, deep cur-
rent through a wide tangle of mangroves near its mouth.
Two miles up the stream divides. Follow north fork about
one-half mile to cliffs. Here the stream has worn a jjassage
throiigh the coralline rock. Cliffs rise at times twenty feet
or more above the water, draped with a luxuriant growth of
vines, air-plants, mosses, wild figs, and a x^erplexing wealth
of troi^ical vegetation. Three miles from its mouth the
stream flows beneath a wide, low arch of rock, under which
a boat may jiass at ordinary stages of the water. Arch Creek
may be ascended to the Everglades, two miles above the arch.
Bluff Rocks (.3 miles). — This range of cliffs has not its like
in Florida. Rising abruptly from the water's edge, midway
between Cocoauut Grove and Miami, it is the most conspic-
uous natiaral landmark on the bay. The i^i'eciiaitous part of
the bluff is a little more than one mile long, and at its high-
est about thirty feet above the water. Of course, this height
would be insignificant in a hilly country, but in Florida it is
sufficiently remarkable to be famous. The water is shallow
at the foot of the rocks, but a landing may be effected in a
small boat, and the cliffs can be climbed almost anywhere.
Along the to}) of the cliff is a dense hammock growth, with
wild groves of orange and lime trees, in full bearing. Here
and there are ruins, apparently of civilized abodes, and at
the foot of the cliff near by is the Punch Bowl, to which
stone-cut stejis lead, and which evidently fui-nished the water-
supply for these forgotten first settlers. No record exists of
Spanish occupation, but it seems most reasonable to suppose
that there was here either a missionary station or a piratical re-
treat, and in either case Spaniards were j^robably responsible.
Soldier Key, Elliotfs Key, and Fowey Rocks Light are all
within easy sailing distance of Cocoanut Grove. On the first
named are buildings originally erected by the workmen en-
314 BISCAYNE BAY.
gaged in constructing Fowey Eocks lighthouse. They liave
been transfoiTed to the Fish Commission with a view to ex-
jierimenting in sponge-culture. On Elliott's Key are fine
plantations of pineapples, and inside this and the neighbor-
ing keys men are at work gathering and curing the sponges
that grow in abundance in the waters of the bay. In shel-
tered positions at the different inlets or " cuts" where the
tide runs strong are of^en seen square pens or " kraals,"
W'here the sponges are left for a time to be washed by the ebl)
and flow, and partially bleached by exposure to the sun.
Fowey Kocks Lirjht (Lat. 25^ 85' 25" N., Long. 80" 5' 41"
W.) is a pyramidal iron structure standing in about five feet
of water on the northern extremity of the dangerous Florida
Reefs. The lantern is 111 feet above the sea-level, and
shows a fixed white light visible 16^ nautical miles. Tlis
lighthouse was completed in 1878, and takes the jilace of the
old tower on Ca[)e Florida, the location being better for
the purposes of navigation. Formerly these rocks were
called the " Looe," jwobably a corruption of " Les Loups,"
the wolves, and tradition has it that a frigate was lost
here in the early days. It is even said that under favoi-able
conditions her submerged guns and some of her timbers can
still be seen.
Walks, etc. — There are no roads in the vicinity of Bis-
cayne Bay, save a few very rougii cart-paths in the immediate
vicinity of the settlements. The walking on the ridge separa-
ting the sea and Everglades is indescribably diflicult and
even dangerous, owing to the disintegrated rock that covers
the surface. The stoutest of boots are needed for pedestrian
excursions, and not even these will last long. The walk
across the ridge to the Everglades and back is a hard day's
work, and should be undertaken only by the strong and sure-
footed. The beaches of Key Biscayne, Virginia Key, and
of the peninsula to the northward afford good walking and
are always interesting. So, too, are occasional stretches
of beach on the mainland to the southward. On one of
these, about six miles south of Cocoanut Grove, and about
one-half mile north of Shoal Point, is a bed of singing sand
that emits a musical note under foot.
BISCAYXE BAY— THE FLORIDA REEFS. 315
Tai'i^on abound iu Biscayiio Bay, but have not at this
writing been taken witli the rod. The kingfish is taken by
trolling or even with the rod just outside the reefs. Spanish
mackerel, sea-trout, pomi^ano, and the more common kinds of
salt-water fish abound in the bay, while bass, bream, and the
usual fresh-water varieties are caught in the various streams.
Water-fowl are for the most part very shy, as they are shot
at all the way down the coast on their long journey from
Labrador. They are abundant, however, and may be shot
with due exercise of skill and patience. There are plenty
of quail in the woods and jirairies, but without dogs it is
wellnigh impossible to find birds that fall in the scrub. Deer
in considerable numbers find pasturage along the border of
the prairies and everglades, but they are very shy and are
persistently hunted by the Indians.
Yachtsmen intending to winter in these waters should not
be misled by any preconceived ideas in favor of keel-boats ;
such craft are worse than useless. The sharpie, with not
more than three feet draught of water, is the only boat suit-
able for pleasure-cruising about the Florida Eeefs and adja-
cent inland waters.
201. The Florida Reefs, Monroe County.
Between Lat. 24° 32' 58" and 25° 35' 25" N., and Long. 80' 4' 48" and
81° 48' 04" W. See map of Monroe County.
Weekly mail and passenger schooners from Key West and Biscarne Bay ^vill
land passengers anywhere. Rise and fall of tides, where given, "is from the
Coast Survey tables, but must be taken with allowance for changes of wind,
which often makes a difference of several feet.
"Within a very few years after Columbus landed at San
Salvador, the Florida Eeefs began to levy tribute on Euro-
jjean commerce. So intricate were their channels, and so
powerful the sweep of currents, that the long line of coral
islands, rocks, and reefs soon earned the name of " The Mar-
tyrs." They keep up their re^nitation fairly well to this day,
notwithstanding the lighthouses and beacons that now
mark the channel from Cape Florida to the Dry Tortugas.
The general formation of the reefs, as shown on the map,
would seem at a superficial glance to indicate that they have
316 TIIK FJ.OKIDA REKFS.
been formed by a powerful current sweeijing southward
through the straits. In reality, the current sets in the op-
posite direction, at a rate varying from two to five miles an
hour, but it is none the less responsiVile for the formation of
the reefs. 1'ho warm waters of the Mexican Gulf and of its
outflow, the Gulf Stream, are highly favorable to the life and
work of the " coral insect" and his lime-making co-laborers.
Accordingly, after laying the foundation of the Florida Pen-
insula, they have by successive stages built the limestone
dams that now confine Okeechobee and the Everglades, have
gone far toward completing another similar concentric dam,
represented at present by the long line of wooded keys,
just off the coast, and have the groundwork of still another
dyke well under way in the dangerous reefs that now fringe
the edge of the Gulf Stream. The current is now so jiower-
ful that the present line of reefs is probably destined to be
the last of the series.
' ' Coral Insect," by the way, is a grievous misnomer ;
for this tiny creature is a polyp, and the lime that he secretes
forms part of his person — a kind of skeleton, as it were —
which he outgrows and leaves behind him in the shape of
solid carbonate of lime. His popular English name, how-
ever, is " coral insect," and such it will probably remain in
spite of science, which classifies him as radiate, and divides
the family into Asti-ceayi Poriles, and 3I(pandrmas (differ-
ent kinds of "brain corals "), and Madrepores (branch corals).
All these, with numerous subdivisions, are found alive and
busy along the reef. In former ages they were at work far
to the north of their present habitat, but, perhaps largely as
the result of their own labors, the conditions changed, the
sea-sands were swept in, and living Florida corals are now
found only at the edge of the Gulf Stream.
The coral maker and the mangrove are close allies in the
work of continent building. The first, by some mystei-ious
process, extracts lime from sea- water and covers the bed of
the sea with a forest of branches in which all sorts of sea
Ijlants and creatures become entangled and die, and in the
course of time are. entombed in the solid lime. The work-
THE FLORIDA REEFS. ol7
er stops buildiug only when he reaches the sea-level (low-
water mark), aud then the ocean begins to pile up loose ma-
terial, broken coral and the like, on the reef. Some day,
when the wind is off shore, a little round, cigar-like stick,
floating vertically, for it is ballasted at one end, drifts uioon
the shallows. Its weighted end finds lodgement as the
tide falls. Before next high-water, it is fast anchored, the
rootlets growing with surprising raiDidity, and penetrating
the crevices of the rich lime rock prepared by the coral mak-
ers. Other brown cigar-like sticks follow this pioneer, and
in a few years the bare reef has become a mangrove key,
collecting the flotsam and jetsam of the ocean to form hab-
itable land. When the mangrove can no longer j'each salt-
water, it dies, decays, adds its quota to the rich top-dressing
of the coral, and then the wind and the sea bring cocoa-
nuts, pine-cones, acorns, and the like, and in a generation
or two, the bare coral key is covered with a thriving ham-
mock growth, and is ready for human habitation.
Tlie late Professor Agassiz discredited the jiopular theory
that the formation of So'uthern Florida is aided by slow geo-
logical upheavals. His strongest argument is that the high-
est levels of keys and main land are practically uniform,
about twelve feet above the sea-level, closely con-esiDonding
to the height of hurricane waves ; whereas, if geological
upheaval had been at work, the inland reefs would be per-
ceptibly higher than those of more recent formation. Such
an exceptionally high coral ridge as the Bluflf Kocks, ou
Biscayne Bay, are merely local, and can be reasonably ac-
counted for as the result of an earthquake. The coral keys
are always highest toward the sea, sloping away gradually
toward the mainland.
Careful observations and measiirements on submerged
masonry at Fort Taylor (Key West), and at Fort Jefferson
(Tortugas), indicate that solid coral forms at the rate of about
six inches in a century. This rate, however, may be safely
doubled in the case of exposed reefs, to allow for accumula-
tions. As the present outer reef averages seventy feet in
height, it should have been about 7,000 years in building,
and each of tlie interior reefs, seven of which have been
;^18 THE FLORIDA REKFS.
traced between the shore bluffs and Lake Okeechobee, was
probably nearly finished not far from the time when its neai*-
est outer neighbor was begun. The rock of the oldest reefs
that have been found is identical with the most recent, and
on the above basis of calculation the ridge that encircles
Okeechobee must have been begun at least 70,000 years ago,
and the microscope jn-oves that the builders and their meth-
ods were precisely the same then as now.
The animal life of the keys and adjacent waters is wonder-
fully pi'olific and interesting. Fish of all kinds abound,
from the great Jewfish, bonita, kingfish, and the like, down
to the delicate and beautiful angel-fish, and many-colored
dwellers among the mangrove roots. Crustaceans are found
in great variety, inchiding " crayfish " as large as lobsters,
but without the formidable " nipj^ers." They are very
abundant, and are excellent for the table. Sea-turtle are
taken in large numbers ; all kinds of water-fowl nest among
the mangroves, and large game, bears, wild-cats, cougars,
deer, and turkeys haunt the wooded keys.
There is deep, navigable water between the outer reef and
the keys, and even to some extent between the keys and
the mainland. Pilots, familiar with the ground can carry
vessels of moderate draft through the inside j^assage, but
for strangers or amateurs the only enjoyment lies in light-
draft sharpies or similar craft, which can make a harbor be-
hind almost any of the keys in heavy weather, or if stranded
on a mud-flat by a change of wind, will rest comfortably on
an even keel until floated off. These intricate channels and
safe harbors among lofty mangroves were well known to the
pirates and freebooters of the sixteenth, seventeenth, and
even of the early nineteenth centuries. It is iDOi:)x;larly sxip-
posed that their successors, the fishermen, spongers, and
wreckers of to-day are pirates wjien they have the chance,
but in reality, while there are desperate characters among
them, they are upon the whole a benefit to commerce, often
saving the cargoes of stranded ships, and sometimes even
floating off the vessels themselves. No doubt they consider
a wreck strictly from a business point of view, and claim full
salvage, but they stand in wholesome fear of the revenue
THE FLORIDA REEFS. 319
service and are generally careful not to transgress their law-
ful rights.
Virginia Key and Key Discayne separate Biscayne Bay
from the ocean. They are covered -with sea-sand, are over-
grown with vegetation, and have lost ilieir true character as
coral keys. The soutiiern end of Key Biscayne is Cajjo
Florida. The abandoned lighthouse tower and a fine clumx?
of cocoa-palms serve as landmarks (see Boute 160).
Soldier Key, the northernmost of the true reef keys, is 4
miles due west from Fowey Rocks Light. On it are build-
ings erected for the workmen who built the light-tower, now
turned over to the Fish Commission and in charge of Com-
modore Ralph Munro, of the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club, who
is investigating the subject of sponge-culture with a view to
increasing the i^roduction.
Fowey Hacks Ligld was established in 1878 to take the
l^lace of the discontinued light on Cape Florida. It stands
in 5 feet of water on the northernmost knob of the Florida
Reef. Lat. 25° 35' 25" N., Long. 80° 05' 41" W.
Ragged Keys. — Here begins the almost continuous line of
more or less habitable islands that ends with Key West.
The northernmost are at present insignificant clumps of
young mangroves.
Sands Key is 1^ mile long, and three-fourths of a mile at
its widest, counting a belt of mangroves.
EllioWs Key is nearly 8 miles long and one-half mile wide.
There are several houses and large plantations of pineapples,
also fishing and sjwnging stations. The greater part of the
island is covered with a dense hammock, and the surface is
rough and rocky, with a sand beach on the seaward side.
On the bay side there is a wharf or landing stage with about
4 feet of water at low tide, and on the ocean side a similar
landing with 6 feet of water.
Old Rhodes Key is tlie largest of a grouj) of islands be-
tween Elliott's Key and Key Largo. Among them Ciesar's
Creek makes through into Cards Sound — the southern ex-
tremity of Biscayne Bay — a shallow expanse with scattered
keys, and not more than 3 or 4 feet of water at low tide.
Key Largo, as its name implies, is the largest of the reef
32U THK FliOKIDA KEKFS.
keys, 25 miles long and of uudetermined width. The coast
survey chait connects it with the mainland, but canoes and
small craft can work their way through from Biscayne Bay
and Cards Sound into Barnes Sound and the Bay of Florida.
The passages are likely at any time to be overgrown by man-
groves, since inhabitants are few and it is to no one's suffi-
cient interest to keep a passage open.
Turtle Harbor. — Two beacons mark the entrance to this
seemingly exposed, but really safe anchorage. The sea-
ward beacon on Turtle Reef bears 4f nautical miles N. \ W.
from Carysfort Reef Light. From Turtle Reef the shore-
ward beacon bears W. ^ N. distant one mile. The harbor it-
self is5i miles long, and more than a mile wide, with 4i to 4
fathoms of water, and good holding ground almost any-
where. The only obstacle to entering is an island-like reef
about f of a mile within the beacons. The wider channel
is to the eastward of this reef, which is well buoyed and
plainly visible in clear weather. The harbor is effectually
sheltered by the outlying reefs from all save the most violent
hurricanes, which are of rare occurrence under such condi-
tions as would render this anchorage unsafe.
Carysfort Reef Light is a pyramidal iron structure, painted
dark brown, with a white lantern 106 feet above the sea.
It shows a white flash every 30 seconds, visible IG nautical
miles at sea. The light was established in 1852. It stands
.on a pile foundation close to the seaward edge of the reef,
in Lat. 25° 13' 18 " N., Long. 80° 12' 34" W. This tower was
seized by the Secessionists in 1861, and the light for a time
discontinued.
The Matecombe Keys, Upper and Lower, are both inhabited,
and there are abundant natural wells on the upper or east-
ern key. These have been used by mariners time out of
mind, and before that by the Indians. Both these islands
were once, and are still to some extent, covered with a fine
hammock growth, showing that they have been longer above
water than their neighbors.
Indian Key. — A small island just off the jjassage between
Upper and Lower Matecombe Keys. It is conspicuous owing
to a number of large warehouses and other buildina:s that can
THE FLORIDA REEFS. 321
be seen from a considerable distance. In the early days the
crew of a French ship that was wrecked near by, landed on the
key and were massacred by the Caloosa Indians. Owing to
its position, midway between Cape Florida and Key "West,
it became important as a wrecking station. A Mr. Hous-
man established a store, built a hotel as early as 1837, and
the place became quite a resort for invalids. The Gov-
ernment, too, used it as a depot during the Seminole wars,
but never kept a guard there, as the neighboring Indians
were considered friendly. During the night of August 7,
1840, however, a band of Spanish Indians made a descent
upon the little settlement. Among the residents was Dr.
Ferine, a distinguished naturalist of the time, stationed here
for jjurposes of scientific observation. Mrs. Ferine and her
three children took refuge in a tidal bath-room that had
been excavated under the house, but the doctor after thias
concealing his family was murdered by the savages, and the
house was burned with the valuable library and the owner's
manuscripts. The mother and children made their escape
by breaking out through the barred sluiceway and succeed-
ed in reaching a schooner anchored oif shore. The Indi-
ans did not seem to be bent upon a general massacre, for
they sufitered others to escape, and the arrival of the U. S.
schooner Flirt put an end to further depredations.
Long Key, 3 miles S.W. from Lower Matecumbe, is the
property of Mr. Thomas A. Hine, of New York. It is about 3
miles long, and is largely occupied by cocoa-palms in bear-
ing. Evidence of occupation by long-forgotten Europeans
is found in stone walls and other relics of civilized handi-
work.
Alligator Reef Light bears E.S.E. from Indian Key, dis-
tant 4^ miles. It stands in Lat. 24'' 51' N., Long. 80° 37' W.
The light is visible 18 nautical miles at sea, showing red and
white flashes (every third flash red), at intervals of 5 seconds,
from a height of 143 feet above the sea level. The mean
rise and fall of the tide at this point is 1 foot 8 inches. The
tower is a white skeleton frame-work on a lilack pile founda-
tion in 5 feet of water, and w'ithin 200 yards of deep sound-
ings. Established in 1873.
322 THE FLORIDA REEFS.
Sombrero Key is on the line of the outer reef, and ratlior
more advanced in formation than most of its fellows. The
present iron light-tower was erected here in 1857; was
seized and forcibly discontinued by the Confederates in
18C1, and re-established, with an armed guard in charge, in
18G3. It stands in Lat. 24° 37' N , Long. 81° 06' W., show-
ing a fixed white light at a height of 141 feet, visible 18 nau-
tical miles at sea.
The VnccKs Kei/s bear nearly due north from Sombrero,
the nearest distant five miles. They are a dozen or more in
number, of all shapes and sizes, many of them well wooded
with pine and liauiuiock growths. The group is 15 miles
long, with shallow intersecting channels.
Biihin Honda Harbor, between a key .of that name and the
Summerlaud Keys, is 10 nautical miles W. by Iv. from Som-
brero Light. There is fairly good holding ground and shel-
ter here for vessels drawing under 18 feet. Smaller vessels
can run in through the jjass, and find safe harbor behind the
keys. Another similar anchorage is Newfound Harbor, 9
miles west of Bahia Honda.
Pine Keys. — Ten miles west of Sombrero the bearing of
the keys changes. Instead of lying parallel with the axis of
the Gulf Stream they are almost at right angles to it. The
larger members of the group are some 8 miles long. For
the most part they are uninhabited, densely wooded, and
well stocked with game. The group includes a number of
islands, large and small, too many to be named here, and
marks the western limit of the Bay of Florida, lying between
Cape Sable and the Keys. The Bay of Florida is shallow,
dotted with uncharted reefs and keys, and liable to turn un-
expectedly into an extensive mud-flat with a change of wind.
A few thousand years, more or less, will, no doubt, see it
converted into everglades.
American Shoal Light, established in 1880, is a brown pyra-
midal iron towei", 115^ feet high over all, showing a white
flash every 5 seconds, visible 16^ nautical miles at sea. Its
position is Lat. 24" 31' K, Long. 81° 31' W.
Sand Key Light shows white, varied by white flashes. It
is 7i uiiles nearly S.W. from Key West light. The tower is
THE FLORIDA REEF8-KEY WEST. 323
121 feet over all, a pvramidal iron stnactnre, painted brown.
Lat. 2i° 27' 10" X., Long. 81° 52' 40" W.
202. Key West, Mouroe County (C. H.).
Population, 1890, 1T,"20.
Lat. 24° 32' 58" N., Long. 81° 48' 4" more or less, according to wind.
Mean rise and fall of tide, 1 foot 3 inches, W.
Hotels. — Russell House, $4 a day. — Duval House, Restaurant and rooms.
Carriages, $1 an hour.
Steamers, etc.— Jlallory line to New York, Plant Steamship Co. to Havana
and Tampa, Morgan line to Puuta Gorda and New Orleans.
Cm/0 Hueso (Bone Island) was the Spanish name, easily
translated into Key^West by English tongues. Tradition
has it that the native tribes inhabiting the keys were gradu-
ally driven frona one to another by the more powerful Caloo-
sas from the neighboring mainland, until at last they were
nearly exterminated in a final battle on Key West, and the
few survivors escaped to Cuba. The abundance of human
bones found when the island was first discovered suggested
its name and gave color to the story. Relics of EuroiDean
occupation are found on this, as well as on some few of the
neighboring keys — stone walls, remains of earthworks and
the like, with indications that the island was well known to
the pirates who frequented these waters during the eigh-
teenth century, and had not wholly disappeared when Flor-
ida passed into the possession of the United States.
The island was granted to one Juan P. Salas by the Span-
ish crown, in recognition of military services and, the grant
having been confirmed by the United States, it finally be-
came the property of John Simonton, of IMobile, on payment
of $2,000. During the Seminole war (1835-184:2) there were
occasional alarms, but the frequent presence of Government
vessels and the use of the port as a supply station guaran-
teed it against attack. In 181:6 the island was swept by a ter-
rible hurricane, accompanied by an extraordinarily high tide,
the sea rising some ten feet above its usual level. The war
with Mexico (1816-181:8) brought Key West still more into
prominence as an important military and naval station, and
324 KEY WEST.
permanent fortifications and other works were begun which
largely increased the prosperity of the place. When Flor-
ida seceded from the Union in 1861, the local Secessionists
attempted to seize the place on behalf of the Confederacy,
Major, afterward General William H. French, of the First
Artillery, was in command at Fort Taylor. The citizens
were by no means nuauimous in their sentiments, and Major
French, who had a few regulars under him, organized the
workmen employed on the fort, accepted the services of a
company of citizen volunteers, and defied the Secessionists
until reinforcements arrived. Throughout the Civil War
Key West was an important military and naval station. Ex-
tensive fortifications were begun in addition to those al-
ready under way at Fort Taylor, but nojie of them were ever
completed.
Until 1869 the local population was insignificant, but the
attempted revolution in Cuba caused a migration that soon
made it a busy manufacturing place. In March, 1886, the
city was nearly swept away by a fire that lasted two days and
destroyed property to the value of near two millions.
The chief commercial interests of Key West are in cigars,
fisheries, turtles, and sponges. The cigar-making business
dates back to 1831, but it made slow jw'ogress until 1872,
when the influx of Cuban refugees stimulated the i:)roduction
to an enormous extent, and at present more than §3,000,000
are annually paid out to cigar-makers. About 6,000 persons
are employed in the manufacture, at w'ages ranging from 83
a week for children to $60 a week for experts. A visit to
any of the large factories when running full time is well
worth the trouble, though not precisely appetizing to cigar-
smokers of fastidious taste. Sponges of fine quality are
taken all along the reefs, and far up the Gulf coast, Key
West being the central market and ship2>iug point. A large
fleet of spongers, mostly small schooners, is constantly com-
ing and going. The sponges can be taken only in calm
weather. They are detached from the rocky bottom with a
fork at a depth of 5 feet to 20 feet, and semi-cured before
packing for shipment. The appearance of the fresh sponge,
just from its native element, is a surprise to the Northern
KEY WEST. S'2o
visitor. The spouge business of Key West amounts to
nearly one million dollars a year. It is interesting to visit
any of the several sponge lofts in the city, as well as to be
present in the market and witness the selling at auction of
fish, turtle, sponges, cocoanuts, and fruit. The market hours
can be learned at the hotel, failing the criers who are some-
times sent out to announce a sale.
The island of Key West (see map of Monroe County,
page 64) is 4i miles long and 1 mile wide. It consists
wholly of coralline rock, covered with soil resulting from the
decay of vegetable and marine growth. The climate ap-
proaches more closely that of the tropics than any other
part of the United States. Frost is unknown, and while
the heat in summer rarely exceeds 90°, the lowest recorded
temperature is 41°, observed in 1855, before the establish-
ment of the U. S. Signal Service.
The objects of interest within the city and on the island
are Fort Taylor with its half-ruined outworks. A permit
is necessary, which can be obtained from the sergeant in
charge, whose quarters are in a small house near the head
of the foot-bridge that leads to the fort. From the parapet
a fine view is obtained of the neighboring keys, and on a clear
day the colors reflected from the submerged reefs and bars
are very beautiful. Fort Taylor, begun in 1846, is a massive
bastioned structure, built partly of coral quarried on the
reef with walls of brick brought from the North. It was
never actually finished, though fully garrisoned during the
Civil War, and rendered capable of efficient defence in case
of need. A fee, of not less than half a dollar, should be
given to the sergeant — more in case of a large party. Mid-
way of the seaward shore of the island, and at its eastern
end, are two martello towers, erected in 1846 for defensive
purposes, but now fallen to ruin, and sometimes used for
stabling cattle and the like.
The Custom House, the Masonic Temple, San Carlos Hall,
the Convent, the Government stores and wharves, and the
old baiTacks are among the principal buildings. Tramways
run through the principal streets, with cars generally at 10
minute intervals. Everywhere along the streets, and in the
326 KEY WEST.
gardens are bananas, palms, pa\\7)aws, and scores of other
tropical growths. Notable among these is the banyan-tree
at the old U. S. barracks, which may be reached by follow-
ing the water-front to the eastward about | of a mile from
the hotel. This is the only tree of the species growing out
of doors in the United States. Very like it, however, is the
Avild fig, or native rubber-tree, common on all the keys and in
the southern part of the peninsula. Three squares south
of Eussell House are some curious palms, well worth a vi.sit.
In one case a date palm and a wild fig have taken root in
the same crevice, the fig entwining the palm in a network
of vine-like growth. Both trees when last seen were vigor-
ous, and neither showed signs of yielding to the other.
Near by is another similar distorted growth, the palm bent
far out of its natural shape by the contortions of the fig.
There are good roads the length of the island, but noth-
ing of especial interest beyond the always changing as2:>ects
of sea and sky.
South Beach, the bathing-place of Key "West, is easily
reached by tramway or on foot, passing through the Cuban
quarter of the town. It is not a yery attractive bathing
beach, nor are the bathing - houses what they should be.
A better plan is to hire a boat and find some retired jslace
beyond the city limits.
There is excellent water-fowl shooting on the neighboring
keys, and on some of them deer are still to be found, while a
trip to the mainland, where all sorts of game abounds, may
be accomplished by any one who can devote a few days to
the expedition. The countless mangrove islands in the vi-
cinity aiford an endless field of exploration, and very good
sport may be had with a fish-spear, grains, or net among
the mangrove roots, where all kinds of marine creatures
seek a refuge. With a little practice the spearsman can
walk upon the projecting roots, and watch for an opportunity
to strike his game in the shoal water below. Some of the
creatures that haunt these retreats should be handled cau-
tiously if captured, as they bite very savagely and make
troublesome wounds.
Northwest Passage Light. — This marks the northern ex-
KEY west: 327
tremity of the broad shoal lying west of the channel. It is
a fixed white light throwing a red sector N.N.W. over the
best water on the bar. The light is on a red and wliite
screw-pile structure, 50 feet high, the light visible 12| nau-
tical miles. Through this channel pass nearly all vessels
bound North and South to and from Europe, the West
Indies, and the Gulf ports.
The Marquesas Growp lies 17 nautical miles west from
Key West. Northwest Channel and Boca Grande intervene,
with extensive shoals between them, necessitating a wide
detour. The main key is horseshoe shaped with the con-
vex side toward the northeast. The open side is well-nigh
closed with small islands and shoals. Within the curve is
a shallow lagoon, i^racticable for boats drawing 5 feet. The
keys are low, almost awash at high tide, and largely cov-
ered with mangroves. There is nothing of especial interest
aside from the teeming life of air and sea. No fresh water
is found on the Marquesas.
Rebecca Shoal is due west from Marquesas, about midway
between that group and the Dry Tortugas. A light was es-
tablished there in 18S6, showing a red and white flash from
a lantern surmounting a square dwelling 67 feet high. It is
visible 13| nautical miles. •
The Dry Tortugas, so called because of the abundance of
sea-turtles and the dearth of fresh water, are 54 nautical
miles nearly due west from Key West. The light on Log-
ger-Head Key, the most westerly of the group, is in Lat.
24° 38' N., Long. 82° 55' 42" W., a fixed white light, visible
18^ nautical miles at sea. It was established in 1858, while
the neighboring fort was under construction. It is a conical
brick tower, the upper half black, the lower half white, 155
feet high to the lantern. A fixed white light is shown on
the S.E. bastion of the fort, at a height of 65 feet above the
sea. It is visible 13* nautical miles.
By far the most conspicuous object to the approaching
voyager is Fort Jefferson, a massive fortification, built of
brick, with the native coral rock for foundation. It was begun
in 1846, and practically finished by the beginning of the Civil
War, when it was armed, garrisoned, and largely used as a
3i3S KEY WEST.
military prison. It is in shape a great pentagon, with lofty
casemated walls, enclosing a palm-shaded parade-ground.
The broad moat is a veritable aquarium for its variety of
marine life, sometimes including sharks and domesticated
pelicans. At present the whole structure is falling into de-
cay, because the Government has no use for it. The only
inhabitants of the grouji are the army sergeant in charge,
and the light-keepers on Logger-Head Key. There is a fine
sheltered anchorage, with 6 and 7 fathoms of wate^ under
the guns of the fort, but it is visited only by spongers, fish-
ermen, and wreckers, and by occasional Government supply-
ships.
The conformation of the group of keys is almost identical
with that of tha Marquesas, though as it is not so far ad-
vanced, the horseshoe conformation is not yet so apparent.
A \'isit to this remote coral reef, with its crumbling fortress
and romantic though lonely surroundings, is most interest-
ing. With a good sailing breeze, the voyage from Key West
may be accomplished in six or eight hours, and a week may
be passed very enjoyably in exploring the neighboring reefs.
West Florida.
The Suwannee River is the natural dividing line between
the western and middle section of the State. It includes
l^erhaps the most diversified and picturesque country in
Florida — high rolling hills, well wooded, and rising, in the
vicinity of Tallahassee, to an elevation of nearly 300 feet.
Throughout this hill country are good roads, suitable for
riding, driving, or walking. Frequent lakes and wate]--
courses add to the beanty of the landscape, and some of the
most remarkable si)rings and wells in the world are formed
in the limestone and sandstone strata that underlie the
whole country. A belt of low pine-land borders the Gulf
of Mexico, with occasional swamps and savannas of great
extent, through which many navigable streams find their
way into the great sheltered bays and sounds that line the
coast. Several fine harbors exist, as at Pensacola, St.
Andrews' Bay, St. Joseph's Bay, Appalachicola, and Dog
Island. In general, the coast is very sparsely inliabited,
the bulk of the population lying along the line of the rail-
road which traverses the State fmm Fernandina and Jack-
sonville to Pensacola. (See State and County Maps.) Along
this line are the best agricultural lands, the leading products
being tobacco, long staple cotton, grapes, pears, and vege-
tables. Oranges, lemons, and figs thrive under proper care,
but not so well as in more southern latitudes. Millions of
feet of lumber are annually cut along the rivers, and floated
down to tide-water, where the logs are made up into rafts
and towed to Pensacola for shipment abroad. Other millions
are stopi3ed at the railroad crossings and used at home.
This section of Florida has not been so much a resort for
Northern sportsmen as has the peninsiila and its coasts, and
the game has not been so mercilessly hunted. From any of
the railway stations it is easy to reach unfrequented hunting-
grounds, either by boat or by wagon road. Along the bays
and inlets the shooting and fishing are of the best.
As compared with that of South Florida, the climate is
330 WESr FLORIDA— JACKSONVILLE.
somewhat cooler. The average temperatures, as reported
by tlie Weather Bureau at Pensacola, are as follows : Spring,
67.9; summer, 80.3; autumn, G9.5 ; winter, 5G.0. The
average rainfall for the same period was : Spring, 14.34:
inches; summer, 22.53 inches; autumn, 15.52 inches; win-
ter, 14.92 inches. The earliest killing frost reported at the
same station was November IG, 1880, and the earliest frosts
in 1879, 1883, and 1881 were, respectively, on December
26th, 16th, and 19th. A comparative table of clear and fair
days in monthly averages will be found elsewhere.
210. Jacksonville to River Junction.
By Florida Central & Peninsula Ey. (foot of Hogan St.) to River Junction,
2^3 miles. Running time, 8 h. 35 min. For stations, distances, and connections
in deta'.I, see maps and context of tlie following named counties, which are
alphabetically arranged from page 1 to 102 : Duval, Baker, Columbia, Suwannee,
Madison, Jefferson, Leon, Gadsden. If it is desired to break the journey, good
hotels will be found at Lake City, Moiiticello, Lloyd, TaUahxssei, or Qiun:ey.
The Hue of the Florida Central & Peninsula is nearly east
and west, Jacksonville, Tallahassee, and Pensacola being
so nearly in the same latitude that the difference is insig-
nificant. The country is open and flat for some distance
after leaving the outskirts of Jacksonville.
At Miu-ieltit, in February, 1861, a Confederate force under
General Finnegan made a stand on its retreat from Jackson-
ville, but was driven out by the Federals.
Baldicin. — Crossing of the F. C. & P. Southern Division,
north to Fernandina, south to Ocala, Tampa, Cedar Key,
etc. This point was fortified by both sides, according to the
changing fortunes of the Ci^■il War. The remains of earth-
works can still be seen along the railroad near the station.
Three miles west of Baldwin is the Duval-Baker county line,
near Deer Creek, a small stream, tributary to the St. Mary's
River.
Macdenny. (See Route 211.) — A short distance west of the
station the ti-ain crosses the South Prong of St. Mary's River,
a fine rapid stream of coffee-colored water, flowing north-
ward. On the east bank the Federal troops made a stand
after their defeat at Olustee.
JACKSONVILLE TO RIVER JUNCTION. 331
Olitfiiee, the scene of a severe fight during the Civil War.
(See Route 212.) Two miles west of the station the line crosses
into Columbia County. (See map, page 17.)
Lake Citif, the county seat, almost hidden in fruit and sliade
trees, lies just south of the station. (See Route 213.) Here
is the crossing of the Georgia Southern k Floiida RpiJroad,
north to Macon, Ga., south, to Palatka.
Welborn is the first station in Suwannee County — the boun-
dary crossing the track a short distance east of the station.
(See map, page 90.) Live Oak', the county seat, is a busy,
thriving place at the junction of the Savannah, Florida &
Western Ry.
At Columbus the railroad crosses the Suwannee River flow-
ing south with a swift, strong current, between steep rocky
banks. (See Route 111.) EllavUle, on the west bank, is in
Madison County. (See map, page 57.) The river is navigable
to this point at high water, but the usual steamboat lauding
is at Hudson, 12 miles below.
West of the river the country changes its character gradu-
ally, rising to hills that show a reddish soil where the fresh
earth is exposed. Mudison, the county seat, is pleasantly
situated among tine forest trees. (See Route 215.) Six miles
* west of Greenville and three miles east of AuciUa, the line
crosses the Ocilla or Aucilla River, a considerable stream,
rising in Georgia in two branches, or prongs, which unite
four miles above the railroad crossing, and about thirty
miles from the Gulf. The stream is navigable for canoes,
except where it breaks into rapids and where it becomes
subterranean at Natural Bridge, 12 miles from its mouth.
Interesting geological strata are exposed in the jDrecipitous
banks near the Natural Bridge.
Drifton. — Junction with branch, 4 miles north to Monti-
cello, the county seat (Route 216), connecting there with the
S. F. & W. for Thomasville, Ga. At Lht/d all trains stojj
for refreshments — dinner, 75c. at Whitfield House, near .sta-
tion. Lloyd is considered a very healthy locality. There
is good hunting in the neighborhood. Hotel, Echo Cottage,
one-quarter mile from station (.§2 a day ; §10 a week). Two
miles west of Lloyd is the county line. (For Leon County
332 JA(JKSONVILLK TO RIVER JUNCTION.
map, distances, etc., see i^p. 51-53.) The country becomes
more and more hilly as the train nears Tallaha.ssee, with fre-
quent lakes, streams, and meadows, and now and then a
glimpse of one of the remarkaV>le " sinks " that occur in this
region. A large tract lying on l)oth sitles of the railroad in
this vicinity was granted to the Marquis of Lafayette in
recognition of his services to the United States during the
war for Indei^endence.
Two miles west of Tallahassee, the Murat homestead, an
unpretentious dwelling, may be seen a few hundred yards
north of the track. Six miles farther west is the Ocklockony
River (see p. 99), forming the Leon-Gadsden county line
(see p. 31). The hill country continues, with fine clear
streams and evidences of agi-icultural prosi^erity on eveiy
hand. Quincy, the county town, is well worth a visit.
(See Route 223.)
Chattahoochee is at the edge of the hills bordering the
Appalachicola bottom lands. (See Route 224.) If an all-
night stop is necessary, the best available hotel will be found
here.
River Junction. — The terminus of three railroads, namely,
the Florida Central & Peninsula, east to Jacksonville (208
miles), the Louisville & Nashville (Peusacola Division), west*
to Pensacola (162 miles), and the Savannah, Florida <t West-
ern, which crosses the Georgia line 2 miles north of the station.
Connections are made here with Appalachicola River steamers
down-stream on Sunday, Monday, and Friday, p.m. Up-
stream, Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday. Hours of arrival and
dejjarture are somewhat irregular, but, the state of the river
permitting, approximate the arrival of trains.
Chattahoochee River, forming the eastern boundary of the
county, finds its source among the mountains of Tennessee
and South Carolina, and is navigable for vessels of 8 feet
draught, 300 miles from the sea. Flint River, its principal
tributary, is navigable to Bainbridge, 40 miles. Some 30
miles from its mouth it receives Chipola River, also navigable
as far as a natural bridge a short distance above Marianna.
MACCLENNY-OLUSTEE. 333
211. Macclenny, Baker County (C. H.).
Hotel.— r/i« Macdenny House; $2 a dav.
RALLROAD.-The F. C. & P. Ry.; east. 28 miles to Jacksonville; west, 138
miles to Tallahassee ; ISO miles to' River Junction. (See map, page 6.)
As the county seat, aud the centre of a frait-growing and
lumber region, this town is a j^lace of considerable com-
mercial activitv. It is named after H. C. Macclenny, the
founder of the place, and a large land-holder in the Adcin-
ity. Peaches, pears, cotton, and all kinds of vegetables are
grown with great success in this neighborhood. The popu-
lation is about 1,000, aud there are good schools, including
the St. James Academy. The county court-house is here.
212. Olustee, Baker Countj'.
(See crossed sabres, map, page 6.)
A village of about 400 inhabitants, mainly engaged in
farming and in the large lumber mills near the outlet of
Ocean Pond. The \AsiCe is notable as the scene of the most
cousic]^rable engagement that occurred in Florida during the
Civil War.
The whole field of battle can be seen from the car windows
as the train approaches Olustee Station, though the exact
localities can be distinguished only by one who is familiar
with them. About twenty minutes after passing Sanderson,
an enclosure may be seen north of the track, where the Con-
federates buried the Federal dead after the fight. A little
farther, and the blue waters of Ocean Pond, with white
buildings and lumber mills on the shore, may be seen
through the trees. A small creek, the outlet of the pond,
nearly marks the line held by the Confederates, their left
extending to the pond, where earthwork defences were hast-
ily thrown up. Protracted rains had filled the lowlands
with water, so that they were nearly impassable, and ren-
dered the ordinary evolutions of foot-soldiers extremely diffi-
cult.
334 0LU8TEE.
During the winter of 18G3-64, the headquarters of the
United States forces in the Department of tho South were at
Hilton Head, S. 0., with General Quincy Adams Gilniore in
command. In comi^liance with orders from Washington, a
force of 10,000 men of tho Tenth Army Corps was detached,
early in February, to operate in Florida.
The plan was to make Jacksonville a base of operations,
march westward along the railroad to Tallahassee, and open
commnuication thence with St. Mark's, on the Gulf of Mex-
ico. This would practically secure complete control of the
peninsula, with a seaport at either end of the line. Jack-
sonville was held at the time by a force of Confederate States
trooi^s under General Joseph Finnegan. He had no ade-
quate means, however, of dealing with the heavy ordnance
carried by the Federal gun-boats, and prudently withdrew to
a point near Marietta, seven miles from the river. He was
obliged to destroy a large amoiint of stores to prevent caji-
ture by the Federal troops, and incidentally a number of
buildings were burned at the same time.
The Confederates had hardly established themselves at
Marietta when they were compelled again to retire in such
haste that eight pieces of artillery, one hundred jirisouers,
and a considerable amount of stores fell into the hands of
the Federal troops, and a river steamer with two hundred
and seventy bales of cotton was only saved from cai)ture by
being burned.
General Finnegan retreated westward nearly as far as
Lake City, closely followed by Federal horse under Colonel
Guy V. Henry, of the First Massachusetts Cavalry, who ap-
l^ears to have conducted the scouting operations of the cam-
paign with great vigor and good judgment.
The Federals advanced as far as Baldwin, then as now an
important railway junction, and there intrenched themselves.
Some of the old earthworks may still be seen from the win-
dows of passing trains. Thus far. General Gilmore had ac-
comj^auied the expedition to see it fairly, under way ; but he
now turned it over to his second in command, Brigadier Tru-
man Seymour, with orders to hold Jacksonville, Baldwin,
and the South Prong of the St. Mary's River, twelve miles
OLUSTEE. 335
farther west. Leaving the command thxis advantageously
posted, Gilmore returned to Hilton Head.
No sooner was he gone than Seymour, misled perhaps by
the impunity with which Henry's light horse had scouted
almost as far as Lake City, determined to advance on his
own responsibility. He wrote Gilmore to this effect, and that
officer promptly despatched orders countermanding the ad-
vance. The messenger, however, arrived just too late,
Seymour, with about five thousand men, was already on the
march.
In the meantime the Confederate department commander,
General P. T. Beauregard, had been hurrying reinforcements
to Finnegan, among them the veteran brigade of General
Alfred Holt Colquitt. Finnegan's scouts kept him advised of
Seymour's movements, and as soon as preparations for an ad-
vance were ajiparent he selected Olustee as the most defen-
sible position within reach of Lake City. Seymour's line of
march necessarily followed the railroad, which here crosses
a swampy creek with a lake on one side and piney woods
on the other. Finnegan was thus able to post his men so
that, with the usual extemporized field defences, they were in
quite a strong position.
At noon, on February 20, 1864, Seymour's advance neared
Olustee. What with mud and water for miles along the flat
woods beside the railroad, and the almost impassable pal-
metto scrub, the important duties of advanced skirmishers
and flankers were either omitted altogether, or j^erformed
so superficially as to be ineftectual. At all events the Fed-
erals marched into a trap, and the first notice they had of the
presence of the enemy was a scathing fire from an invisible
foe that told heavily on the advance battalions. Colonel,
afterward General, Joseph E. Hawley, was at the front with
his own regiment, the Seventh Connecticut Volunteer In-
fantry, and but for the presence of these and other veteran
troops under Colonels Henry, Barton, and Scammon, the dis-
order consequent upon such an unexpected attack must
have been instantly overwhelming. A line was however
formed with creditable expedition, and a s^iirited fire was
returned. The Confederates had every advantage of position,
336 OLUSTEE.
and tired practically from the shelter of an ambuscade. The
Federals nevertheless maintained the oflfensive, bringing up
Hamilton's battery of light artillery, and feeling out the ene-
my's position.
By mid-afternoon General Seymour succeeded in deploy-
ing his line, but on advancing the men found themselves
confronted by an impassable morass. Regiment after regi-
ment moved forward, exhausted its ammunition against the
deadly screen of pine and palmetto, and fell back, leaving a
heavy percentage of dead and dying. Hamilton's battery of
light artillery w as jjushed forward into an advanced position,
and in twenty minutes all but ten of its fifty horses were
killed or disabled, and of the eighty-two men who went into
action only thirty-seven wei'e able to help drag some of the
guns to the rear.
Toward the latter part of the afternoon the Confederates
assumed the offensive, and a regiment under Colonel Zach-
erj broke the Federal centre. Just at this time the reserve
of colored troops, consisting of the Fifty-fourth Massachu-
setts and the First North Carolina, came up and made a
stubborn stand. The North Carolina regiment lost its Col-
onel, Lieutenant-Colonel, Major, and Adjutant, and the Con-
federate advance was checked long enough for Seymour to
collect the remnants of his command, and organize an or-
derly retreat.
As soon indeed as the Confederates became the aggressors
the conditions were reversed, and the natural difficulties of
the country told in favor of the retreating Federals. The
pursuit was kept up till dark, but it was merely a skirmish
in retreat, and Seymour was able, before permitting a halt,
to gain the east bank of the St. Mary's Eiver, a position of
at least temporary security. The Confederates, besides gain-
ing the day, captured 500 prisoners, 5 guns, 2 stand of colors,
and 2,000 small-arms. The Federal loss in killed, wound-
ed, and missing was 1,828 men, and that of the Confederates
934, figures which prove beyond dispute the obstinate cour-
age with which the fight was maintained on both sides.
Considering the numbers engaged, this action was one of the
most important south of Virginia. It defeated a well-laid
OLUSTEE— LAKE CITY. o37
scheme for wresting from the Confederates, at one blow, al-
most the whole State of Florida, which, once secured, could
have been held with comparatively little trouble.
General Seymour's hasty change of plans, involving a long
march throiigh an unknown and exceedingly difficult coun-
try, has never been satisfactorily accounted for. His per-
sonal gallantry, however, has never been questioned. Dur-
ing the action he did all that reckless daring could suggest
to retrieve the disaster that his own rashness had provoked,
and his military record, both before and after the fatal day
at Olustee, is highly creditable.
213, Lake City, Baker County (C. H.).
Population, 1,800.
Hotels. — Central House, t2 a day ; The Inv, $2 a day.
Railroads.— Florida Cent. & Peninsula Ry. ; east to Jacksonville (60 miles) ;
west to Tallahassee (106 miles). Ga. Southern Rd. ; north to Macon, Ga. (210
miles) ; south, to Palatka (75 miles).
LivEBv. — Single team, 75c. an hour ; $2.50 a day.
Lake City takes its name from nearly a score of small lakes
and ponds that surround it, fed by twice as many springs
which bubble up through the sandy soil. To a stranger the
trees are the most consjiicuous feature of Lake City. They
fairly embower the whole place and effectually screen it from
the publicity of passing trains. As the site of the State
Agricultural College and the United States Experiment Sta-
tion, it is evidently considered by experts as fairly typical in
soil and climate of this section of the State. The first settle-
ment was in 1820. In 1837 it became a military post, and
until 1859 was called "Alligator," after a famous Semiuole
chief. It is the shipping point for a region esijecially favor-
able to the cultivation of Sea Island or long staple cotton,
and warehouses have been established here by some of tho
gi-eat Northern cotton factors. The experimental gardens are
well worth visiting, and a drive in the vicinity will afford an
intending settler an excellent idea of the capabilities of this
section of the State.
WIdte Sulj)hur Springs, on Suwannee River, twelve miles
N.W., may be reached by rail or wagon road. It is a beauti-
92
338 LAKE CITY-LIVE OAK— MADISON.
ful place, and was a fashionable resort before the Civil '^'av.
There is good fishing in the surrounding lakes. Lake City
has Episcopal, Presbyterian, Catholic, Methodist, and 13ai>-
tist chui'ches, and excellent public and private schools.
214. Live Oak, Suwannee County (C. H.).
Population, 1,000.
Hotels. — Ethel Honse, Live Oak Hotel, $2 to $2..50 a day.
Raixuoad. — Florida Central & Peniusnla ; east, to Jacksonville (82 milei-) ;
•west, to Tallahassee (84 miles), etc.
A thriving place, with large lumber interests, nearly in the
centre of a i-ich agricultural county, which grows a large
amount of long staple-cotton, vegetables, and farm ju-oducts.
215. Madison, Madison County (C. H.;.
Population, 1,200.
Hotel. — The Central Park Hotel, $3 a day.
Railkoai). — The F. C. & P. ; east, to Jacksonville (110 miles) ; west, to Talla-
hassee (56 miles), etc.
Madison stands on a considerable elevation, with streets
pleasantly shaded by forest trees, and all conveniences in
the way of shipjjing facilities, telegraph, express, and bank-
ing offices, and good general stores. The surrounding coun-
try is very productive. Cotton, com, hay, vegetables, and
fruits are grown in large quantities, and Northern thread fac-
tories have here their agents and warehouses for the pur-
chase and storage of long staple cotton. Fairly good roads
lead north into Georgia, and south into Taylor County. The
town was settled about 1830. It has a handsome court-
house, several churches, and good public and private
schools.
MONTICELLO. 339
216. Monticello, Jefiferson County (O. H.).
Popnlation, 1,700.
Hotels. — St. Elmo, $4 a dav ; Madden House, $2 ; Partridfje House, $2.
Railroads.— The S. F. & W.; north, to Thomasville, Ga. ;24 miles) ; F. C.
& P.; east, to Jacksonville (143 miles) ; west, to Tallahassee (23 miles), etc.
Stations separate, but near each other.
The main business of Monticello, aside from that connect-
ed with the coiiuty offices, is the shipment of cotton, corn,
oats, tobacco, lecoute pears, pecan nuts, and general pro-
duce in the way of vegetables, etc. There are Methodist,
Baptist, Episcopalian, and Presbyterian churches, with
public and private schools. The town is laid out in blocks
200 feet square, with streets 100 feet wide between them,
shaded by superb trees, and often bordered by gardens
where roses bloom the year round, and old-fashioned South-
ern mansions stand among oaks and magnolias. In some
cases smart new houses and stores have iiushed in among
their seniors, asserting the changed condition of life in the
old county capital.
The following weights and dimensions of vegetables grown
in this vicinity are vouched for on good authority : a short
beet 31 inches in girth ; a fiat turnip 11 inches in diameter ;
a radish 27 inches long and 18 inches in circumference,
weighing 6^ pounds ; a globe turnip weighing without top
or tap root 11 pounds 6 ounces; and a water-melon, jierfect
to the centre, weighing 54 pounds.
MiccosuTcie Lake, 3 miles north of Monticello, and 19
miles northeast of Tallahassee, is about 15 miles long, and in
the widest part some 4 miles across. The principal tributa-
ries are Ward's CreeJc, rising in Thomas County, Ga., and
Dry Creeic, flowing from the westward. Half a mile from
the mouth of Dry Creek, which is known as the head of the
lake, is a circular basin nearly or quite 100 feet deej) toward
the southern sliore, but shallow toward the north. A su-
l^erb growth of hard wood timber nearly surrounds this
basin. Here may be seen the different varieties of oak,
hickory, beech, wild cherry, mock orange, red bay, and
magnolia, often loaded down with enormous grapevines, cle-
matis, yellow jasmine, and woodbine. Beneath and cover-
340 MONTICELLO.
ing the ground are countless shrubs, some of them flower-
ing, and others merely a tangle of luxuriant vegetation. It
were hard to find a better jilace than this to study the flora
peculiar to this part of Florida, and the location is peculiarly
attractive from the fact that the land rises boldly to a con-
siderable height, commanding a view of several miles down
the lake to where the shores curve to the eastward, and
gi'adually converge until the lake becomes a creek, and after
the manner of streams in this region, plunges bodily into
the earth and is lost to sight. Within a mile or two of this
sink are several others. Long Pond Sink, with a cuiTent
from west southwest, Black Creek Sink, with a current from
south southwest, Bailey's Mill Creek Sink, with a current
from east southeast. (The bearings are on the authority of
Br. F. A. Byid, of Miccosukie. ) The conformation of the
land induces the belief that these sinks unite to form a sub-
terranean river, flowing southwesterly until it breaks forth
again in the St. Mark's River.
Other smaller lakes are Erie, Olive, Bradford, Hall, and
there are numberless and nameless ponds, all abounding
with fish. The woods and valleys are well watered with
clear streams, usually of excellent water.
TALLAHASSEE. 341
220. Tallahassee.
Population, 2,933.— Lat. 80° 2T' N., Long. 84" 18' W.
Hotels.— /,co»i Hotel, $4 a day ; St. James Hotel, $2.50 to 13.
Railroads.— The F. C. & P. i Western Division) ; east, to Jacksonville (166
milesi ; west, to River Junction (42 miles), connecting there with Louisville &
Nashville Ed. (Pensaco!a Di^^sionl and Appalachicola River Steamers. St.
Mark's Branch (V. C. & P.) to St. Mark's, 21 miles south.
Churches and Schools. — Episcopal, Catholic, Fresbyterian, Baptist, Meth-
odist, State Xornial School, Lincoln Academy.
Bankers. — B. C. Lewis & Sons.
Livery.— Saddle Horses, 30c. to 50c. an hour ; $1.50 a day. Single team, $3
a day. Double team, io a day. Fare from station 25c.
Whether seen from a distance or near at hand, Tallahassee
cannot fail to impress the traveller with the beauty of its
situation. The town, with its wide, shaded streets, quite
covers the crest of a noble hill that rises nearly 300 feet
above the sea level, and every street-opening commands an
extensive view over similar hills, and out across the flat-
woods to the southward, bordering the Gulf Coast.
The name Tallahassee, usually translated "old field," ap-
parently conveys to the Seminole the idea that we associate
with " ancestral acres." It is applied to any land formerly
occupied by the tribe as a permanent home. The Spaniards
established a fortified camp on a hill to the westward of the
town, probably during a war with the Apalaches in 1638. The
place is now occupied by a handsome old jilantation house,
and is known as the Fort St. Luis Place. A piece of armor
found there is preserved in the State public library, Talla-
hassee.
The local Indians were driven out early in the first Semi-
nole War (1818), and settlers from North Carolina, Vir-
ginia, and Georgia, practically took possession of Tallahassee
hill before the treaty of cession was confirmed. In 1823 it
was made the territorial capital, and naturally became the
State capital when Florida was admitted to the Union in
1845. The Indian wars left it practically unmolested, and
it became famous during the ijeaceful, prosperous years that
followed as a centre of a society that held itself socially and
intellectually best in the aristocracy of Southern jjlanters.
Its delightful climate and beautiful surroundings attracted
wealthy residents from all over the South, and at Bellair,
342 TALLAHASSEE.
G miles distant, was a sort of rural annex to the more elabo-
rate life of the State capital. An Ordinance of Secession
was passed January 10, 1861, and most of the men enlisted
in the Confederate service. Enough were left, however, to
repel an ill-advised attempt on the part of the Federals by
way of St. Mark's. (Route 212.) Civil war dealt leniently
with Tallahassee, and it was not occupied by United States
troojjs, save as a precautionary measure, after hostilities
ended.
Daring early spring Tallahassee becomes a veritable bower
of roses. The old mansions that line its streets, some of
them good specimens of what is termed colonial architecture,
stand, as a rule, in the midst of lovely gardens, often in a
tangle of flowers and vines, shaded by stately oaks, mag-
nolias, and bays.
The State House is at the brow of the hill near the south
end of Main Street. It is an imposing old structure of brick
and stucco, with a stately j^ortico and a general air of dilapi-
dation. It stands in a noble grove of trees, and from the
roof a wide view opens over the surrounding country. The
roof is rather diificult of access, but ^practically the same
view can be obtained from the cupola of the court-house near
at hand. Some interesting war relics are to be seen within
the building. The original Ordinance of Secession is in the
Governor's room, a number of tattered Confederate battle-
flags in the Adjutant-General's office, and interesting maps
and records in their proper departments. In the Capitol
grounds stand several monuments with commemorative in-
scriptions.
The Episcopal Cemetery, five minutes' walk west of the
Leon Hotel, is crowded with the graves of old Tallahassee
families. There are no very ancient dates on the stones —
none, of course, jjrior to the settlement of the town (1827).
There are, however, a number of interesting monuments and
inscriptions, among them two modest shafts that mark the
graves of Charles Louis Napoleon Achille Murat, son of the
King of Naples and Prince of the two Sicilies, and of Cath-
erine his wife, daughter of Colonel Bird C. Willis, of Vir-
ginia. (For a sketch of their story see ojoposite page.)
TALLAHASSEE. 343
Another more modern cemetery is at the foot of the north-
western slope, where lie most of the Confederate dead whose
remains coiald be brought home. On Memorial Day of each
year these graves are decorated with flowers by surviving
friends.
The Murat Estate. — Two miles west of the railway station.
Follow road leading in that direction near railway. The es-
tate bears the name of its original owner, eldest son of the
famous marshal of France under the First Napoleon, who
was made King of Naples in 1805. On his dejjosition in
1815, the son, then a boy of 15, was sent to finish his edu-
cation in Austria. Shortly after reaching his majority he
cut adrift from early associations and came to America.
Carriage-roads and bridle-paths were then almost the only
artificial lines of travel, but the Prince visited nearly all the
settled portions of the United States. At Tallahassee he
naturally became enamoured of the climate and the countiy.
He bought a large estate, erected an unpretentious house,
still known as the Murat Homestead, though its founder
named it Lipona. He at once interested himself actively in
local affairs, became a naturalized citizen, and served suc-
cessively as postmaster, alderman, and mayor. In 1826 he
married Catherine, a daughter of Colonel Bird C. Willis, of
Virginia, and grandniece of Washington.
Murat was a man of bi'illiant intellectual gifts, but he
was eccentric to the verge of lunacy, and his personal habits
were so disgusting that for some time the beautiful, refined
Virginia girl would not listen to his suit. However, she
yielded at last and became the Princess Murat, recognized
as such by all who cherished the memory of the First Napo-
leon. The Murats visited Belgium together and were re-
ceived there with royal honors, and after her hiasband's
death the Princess was received and treated with distin-
guished favor by the Third Napoleon.
Murat was the author of three works in French, all treat-
ing of political afifairs in the United States. These were
published in Paris (1830 to 1838j and gained for their au-
thor wide recognition as a writer of ability. His last and
most considerable work, "The Principles of Kepublican
344 TALLAHASSEE.
Government, as perfected in America," went through fifty
editions, and was translated into the principal continental
languages. The shiftless, eccentric habits of the Prince
wasted his property, and when he died, in 1847, after years
of disease, through which he was faithfully tended by his
wife, she was left almost without an income. The restora-
tion of the Napoleonic dynasty in France, however, brought
her recognition and a handsome competence from the new
Emperor, with whom she was a great favorite. With the
overthrow of the Southern Confederacy her i>roperty again
disajjpeared, but on the restoration of peace Napoleon III.
granted her an annuity of 30,000 francs, which continued till
her death in 1867, only a short time before the Empire was
again demolished by German arms.
Excursions — The hill country of West Florida is favored
above the rest of the State in the matter of roads. The soil
is such a happy admixture of clay and sand that in addition
to unsurpassed i^roductiveness in certain fields of agricult-
ure, it packs into capital roadways, which, without any
care to speak of, remain hard and smooth during fair weather.
Koads diverge toward all the cardinal points from Tallahas-
see— north and east toward Lakes Jackson, lamonia, and
Miccosukee, south to St. Mark's, Newport, and the famous
Wakulla Spring, and west to the Oclockonee Eiver and the
Quincey tobacco lands. In all directions the visitor may be
sure of a picturesque, diversified country, well wooded, and
abounding in lakes, streams, sinks, and springs. After heavy
rains the valley roads are often submerged, and it is no more
than right to warn strangers against the seemingly shallow
waters that often cover them. This whole region is under-
drained by subterranean rivers. " Sinks " sometimes open
in the most unexpected places. In 1889 a party from Chi-
cago narrowly escaped with their lives through carelessly
driving into what appeared to be a shallow jDond that had
temporarily covered the road. The water, however, is
usually clear, and there is no danger if a reasonably sharp
lookout is kei^t.
These " sinks " always occur in connection with some un-
derground lake or water-course. Thev mav be large enough
TALLAHASSEE. 345
to take in a good-sized house, or only a few feet across.
Sometimes the water at bottom is shallow, sometimes deep,
and still or swift, according to conditions. They are caused
by the action of subterranean streams wearing away the un-
derlying rock until a cavity is formed. After a time the
roof becomes too thin to support the weight overhead, and
accordingly falls in. It is either swept down stream, or else
dams up the current, and perhaps the next passer-by finds a
lake or a full-grown river where none existed before. (See
Miccosukee and Jackson Lakes.)
Lake Hall, 6 miles northeast, on Thomasville Road. A
favorite picnic-ground, with good fishing, fine forest-trees,
and picturesque surroundings. At this lake the Leon Hotel
keeps boats for the use of guests.
Lake Jackson, 6 miles northwest, is irregularly shaped,
about 6 miles long and 4 miles wide. It is quite deep, and
shortly after the Charleston earthquake of 1886 it distin-
guished itself by disappearing entirely through an unsus-
pected subterranean passage. Large numbers of fish per-
ished, and for a time pestilence was dreaded by the neigh-
boring residents. After a few days the lake began to fill up
again, and since that time has maintained its usual level.
Lake lamonia, 12 miles northeast, is somewhat larger
than Lake Jackson, and has many islands. A small town of
the same name is near its eastern end, on the Thomasville
road.
Lake Miccosukee, 18 miles northeast. (See Roiite.)
Bellaii\ 6 miles south, on St. Marks Road. Formerly
the summer resort of the most select and exclusive circle of
Tallahassee society. It is in the edge of the flatwoods, and
why it should have been selected by its frequenters is not
easy of explanation. In the days of its prosperity, however,
a number of cottages were built here, and many of the most
distinguished Southerners of the day entertained their friends
with the lavish hospitality traditional with them. Nothing
now marks the place but half-obliterated foundations, and
groups of shade-trees that have grown to a lordly height
since the houses crumbled to pieces, or were burned, during
the lawless days of civil war.
340 TALLAHASSEE.
Si. Mnrloi, 21 miles south by rail (2 hoiii's), or carnage (3
Lours). (SeeKoute 222.) Train from Tallahassee at 8.30
A.M., returns at 11 p.m., affording no time for local expedi-
tions. (Route 212.)
The Wakulla Volcano. — To the southeast and south of Tal-
lahassee there extends a vast belt of flat woods, merging
into an almost impenetrable tangle of iindergrowth and
swamp. It is a famous hunting-ground, and somewhere
within its shades is the alleged Wakulla volcano. The cu-
rious inquirer is sure to hear the most contradictory state-
ments regarding this mystery. He will be told by some
that it can be seen from any high obsei-vatory in the vic-
inity, and by others that it cannot be seen from any save the
most southerly uplands. He will meet people who have
seen the smoke almost every day of their lives, others who de-
clare that there is no such smoke, and still others who say
that they never heard of it. It seems to be pretty well estab-
lished, however, that ever since the country was settled,
and, according to Indian tradition, long prior to that, a col-
umn of smoke or vapor has been visible in favorable
weather, rising from a fixed point far within the jungle, to
which no man has yet been able to penetrate. Several ex-
peditions have been organized to solve the mystery, but
none of them have penetrated more than twelve or fifteen
miles into the morass. Once or twice New York newspapers
have sent representatives with orders to solve the prob-
lem, but, according to the local version, they have always
IH'oved recreant to their duty as soon as the difficulties in
the way became ai^parent. The "volcano," therefore, bids
fair to remain a mystery until some concerted measures are
taken for exploration and discovery.*
* A column of smoke was pointed out to the author as the alleged " volcano,"
and ou several successive days bearings were taken with a pocket compass from
the cupola of the Court-hoiise at Tallahassee. The smoke in favorable weather
was always visible in the same place, rolling up in strong volume, usually
dense and dark like the smoke from a furnace chimney. The author was as-
sured by a Northern gentleman, long resident in Tallahassee, that it was often
lighted with a faint glow at night. The best-informed persons with whom the
author conversed believe it to be vapor from a boiling spring, possibly inter-
mingled with inflammable gas that occasionally ignites. It is said that one of
THE WAKULLA SPRING. 847
221. The Wakulla Spring.
Fifteen miles south of Tallahassee. Foiir miles west of Wakulla Station, St.
Marks Rd. By carriage from Tallahassee, 2}i hoiu-s. By row-boat from St.
Marks, 2 hours.
Wakulla — "Mystery" in the language of the Seminole.s —
ranks for beauty and size with the other wonderful springs
of Florida described elsewhere (see Routes 182 and 183).
In some respects it surjaasses them, its gi-eater depth lend-
ing to the absolutely transj^arent water shades of color that
are wanting in the others. The greatest recorded depth of
the sirring is lOG feet, but it is said that in certain places no
bottom has been reached with the sounding line. Far down
in the dejjths a ghostly white ledge of rock is visible, from
beneath which the volume of water m.shes upward, and
where fishes, alligators, and turtles are quite safe from hu-
man snares, though as plainly visible as if nothing but the
air intervened. The surroundings of the spring are ex-
tremely beautiful ; preciijitous, heavily-wooded banks over-
hang the water, and no railroad or steamboat as yet profanes
the solitude. It is not easy to say which is the better route
to follow. The drive from Tallahassee is the pleasanter.
That from Wakulla Station is the shorter and easier. In
this latter case conveyances must be ordered in advance,
and are usually sent down from Tallahassee. The trip by
water from St. Marks is more enjoyable for those who prefer
boat expeditions.
Other fine springs are found in the vicinity, notably at
Newport, 3 miles southeast of Wakulla, where the water is
strongly impregnated with sulphur, and the springs are be-
lieved to possess valuable medicinal properties.
the tributaries of the Ocilla River is distinctly higher In temperature than any
of the neighboring streams, and though it has never been explored, it flows
from the direction of the " Wakulla Smoke," aud may have its source in the
supposed boiling spring. C. L. N.
348 S'l". MARKS.
222. St. Marks, Wakulla County.
F. C. & P. Rd. (St. Marks Branch), Tallahassee to St. Marks, 21 miles (2
hours).
The St. Marks Eiver is the natural seaport of Tallahassee.
Once across the bar, which has 7 feet of water at low tide,
there is a good depth to the railroad wharf. In the early
days of Tallahassee's prosperity a plank road -was built to
facilitate the transportation of cotton and tobacco. A rival
company built the railroad in 1846, upon which a feud arose
between the two companies which threatened to become se-
rious, biit ended in a victory for the railroad. In 1801 the
F. C. & P. was finished to the State capital, and naturally
took the bulk of the carrying trade.
A fort of considerable strength was built by the Spaniards,
under Captain Don Jose Primo de Ribeira in 1718, at Port
Leon, two miles south of the present town of St. Marks. It
was called San Marcos de Apalaclie. Ruined limestone ma-
sonry work still marks the site. During the civil war the
river served to some extent as a refuge for blockade runners,
but United States gun-boats cruised up and down the coast
at such short intervals that blockade running was dangerous
business. A redoubt was thrown up near the lighthouse in
1862. On June 15, 1863, the work was shelled by the
United States gun-boat Tahoma, Lieutenant Howell. The
garrison — a company of artillery — were driven out, taking
their battery with them. An armed party landed and de-
stroyed everything about the works that would burn. Salt-
works of considerable extent were afterward established
along the river, and the Confederate States largely drew
their supply of salt from this source. The daily product of
the works was estimated at 2,400 bushels. Boat expeditions
from the Tahoma totally destroyed the works on Febniaiy
17 and 27, 1864. Property not contraband of war was dis-
tributed among the neighboring inhabitants. On March 6,
1865, a considerable force of Federals landed near the mouth
of the river, and marched U]} as far as the Natural Bridge,
where they were met by a hastily gathered Confederate force,
and repulsed with considerable loss. The attacking party
ST. MARKS— QUINCY. 349
was mainly from a negi'o regiment, the Second U. S. Col-
ored Infantry, which went into action about 500 strong, and
lost 70 men in killed, wounded, and missing. Next to the
battle of Ohistee, this was the most considerable engagement
fought within the State, but as it occurred only a short
time before the fall of Richmond and the surrender of
Lee, it was almost overlooked by all except local historians,
who gloiT in it as among the last triumphs of the Confeder-
ate arms.
Cajiital shooting may be found in the passes and creeks
about the mouth of the river, and excellent fishing in the
deep channels of the river itself. The St. Marks is supposed
to find its source in Lake Miccosukee (Route 216). Its whole
course may be traced by a succession of " sinks," and occa-
sional exposed reaches. It rises sedately from its subter-
ranean ways about 18 miles north of St. Marks, forming a
pool of considerable depth, but largely overgrown with
rushes. There are rapids near the outlet, and again at two
places below, respectively I and 8 miles above St. Marks ;
elsewhere the stream is wide, placid, and deep. The rapids
can be easily run in a small boat, but are hard to ascend.
St. Marks light stands in Lat. 30° 04' 28" N. Long. 84°
10' 50" W. It was established in 1829 and rebuilt in 1866.
The tower is white, 83 feet high, and shows a fixed white
light visible 14f nautical miles. The nearest light to the
westward is at Cape St. George (52 nautical miles), and the
nearest to the east and south at Cedar Key (80 nautical
miles) .
223. Quincy, Gadsden County fO. H.).
Population, 600.
Hotels. — Florida House ; Love House, $1.50 to f2 a day.
Qniucy was selected as the county town site and laid out
in 1825. The town is about one mile north of the railway
station, where carriages are always in waiting on the arrival
of trains (fare 25 cents). The situation is charming, in a fine
hilly country with clear rushing streams, good roads, a rich
soil, and fine forests on all sides. The town itself is in manv
350 QUINCY— CHATTAHOOCHEE.
respects like Monticello and Tallahassee, with its wide
streets and stately old Southern mansions. Within a few
years Northern capital has largely developed the tobacco-
growing interests of the vicinity. There are several planta-
tions within easy riding distance, one of them containing
12,000 acres, of which at this writing nearly one-quarter is
under cultivation. Some of them are worked by negroes,
and others by colonies of Alsatians imported for the pur-
pose. The whole business is carried on systematically, sub-
stantial fences surround the fields, and each section has its
curing and storage houses. The best way to visit these
great plantations is in the saddle, as the distances are too
great to be covered on foot. Vehicles, however, can be
driven anywhere along the jilantation roads. The general
superintendent resides in Quiucy, and should be consulted
as to the most interesting points to visit. During the win-
ter mouths, of course, the fields are bare, but work of some
kind is always in progress (see p. 31).
224. Chattahoochee, Gadsden County.
The earliest overt act of the Secessionists in the State wa.s
committed at this point, at 7 o'clock in the morning of Janu-
ary 6, 1861. The Ordinance of Secession was not j^assed
until four days afterward, but no doubt, anticii)atiug that
event with certainty, under date of January 5th the governor
issued an order granting authority to Colonel Dunn to raise
a company, seize the arsenal and its contents "now in the
possession of the General Government, and retain the same,
subject to my orders." The arsenal was at the time under
charge of Ordnance Sergeant E. Powell, U. S. A., with a few
men, and he so stoutly refused to deliver up the keys that
Colonel Dunn was fain to telegraph to the governor for fur-
ther instructions, upon receipt of which the 2:)lucky ser-
geant was compelled to surrender by superior force. The
post was an arsenal of dejiosit, containing at the time 5,122
pounds of powder, 173,476 cartridges for small-arms, one six-
pounder gun with a sujjply of ammunition, and sundry mis-
CHATTAHOOCHEE— RIVER JUNCTION. 351
cellaneous equipments. This arseual was establislied in
1833. It was used for various military purposes by the
Confederates, and after tlie return of peace was given to the
State of Florida by the United States, and converted into a
lunatic asylum.
230. Biver Junction to Pensacola.
By Louisville & Nashville Rd. (Pensacola Division), 162 miles (7 h. 50 min.).
Best hotels at Marianua, De Funiak and Milton.
Shortly after leaving River Junction the train enters upon
the long trestle over the Appalachicola. This large river,
whose turbid waters are in striking contrast with the clear
streams of Leon and Gadsden Counties, is formed by the
junction of the Flint and Chattahoochee Rivers ; the second
of which, in reality the main stream, has its sources in
Northern Georgia, almost at the Carolina line. It is naviga-
ble 300 miles from its mouth. Flint River is comparatively
small, navigable only for about 40 miles. The confluence
of these streams is at the Georgia line, 2 miles above
the railroad crossing, and about 100 miles from the sea "as
the river runs," though only 80 miles in a straight line.
The river carries down enormous deposits of alluvium, form-
ing wide stretches of marshy delta in Appalachicola Bay.
The bottom lands are very rich, but liable to frequent over-
flow, as may be seen by the flood marks nearly at the level
of the rails on the trees beside the trestle.
In Jackson County west of the Aijpalachicola the country
is less conspicuously hilly than that to the eastward, though
there are still considerable elevations. At Marianna a
pleasant stop may be made (Route 231).
De Fun ink Springs; (Route 232) is a very attractive place,
with a good hotel and a winter school on the Chautauqua
plan. A short distance west of Longview tlie railway passes
into Washington County (page 101), closely following its
northern boundary to the Choctawhatchee River, where it
passes into Holmes County (page 39). Crossing numerous
rapid streams, the Walton County line is reached at Argjde,
whence are post-roads south to the Scottish Colony that set-
352 RIVER JUNCTION— MARI ANN A.
tied in this region early in the present century. Be Funiak
Springs is the principal resort of this jjart of Florida. (See
Koute 232.) About one mile west of Crestview is tlie Wal-
ton-Santa Kosa County line. The stream crossed just be-
yond is iShodl River, a north fork of Yellow Water Miver.
At Miltou (Route 233) the line ci'osses the head of Black-
water Bay, the mouth of Black River, a deep, rapid stream
down which large quantities of lumber are floated to Pensa-
cola and a market. A run of about twenty minutes from
Milton opens a refreshing view over Escambia Bay, which
the railway presently crosses on a trestle 3 miles long.
From this jioint to Pensacola, about 20 miles, the ride is
most enjoyable for interest and beauty. After leaving the
trestle the rails, as a rule, follow the water side with the
Escambia Blufts inland, and occasional wooded points which
momentarily cut ofi" the bay view.
231. Marianna, Jackson County (C. H.).
Popalation, 1,500.
Hotel.— jT/te Chipola Hotel, $2 a day.
Railroad. — Louisville & Nashville "Rd. (Pensacola Division) ; west, to Pen-
eacola (136 miles) ; east, to River Junction (26 miles).
A pretty village on the hill north of the station. It has
the county buildings, and a generally attractive appearance.
The Chipola River, which runs near the town, crossing the
railway a short distance east of the station, is responsible for
some of the natural curiosities in the neighborhood. It has
quarried for itself a natural bridge, near Marianna, and a
large cave is jjart of the same formation.
Chijyola Spring, among the most remarkable in the State,
bursts with great force through a rocky, cavernous opening
in the side of an oak-covered bluff", sloiiing toward the south-
west. The chasm is about 30 feet long, east and west, and
8 to 10 feet wide. Midway of its length it is nearly halved
by a submerged fragment. The water of this spring, like
that of those described elsewhere, is crystal clear, but the
rush of the current prevents leisurely examination from a
boat. The outlet is a f nll-srrown stream nearlv 100 feet wide
MARIANNA— DB FUNIAK SPRINGS. 353
and 8 feet deep, which joins Chipola River ten miles dis-
tant, not far above the railroad crossing.
Long Moss Spring pours out a good-sized creek with such
violence that fragments of stone thrown into it will not sink.
The whole watershed of the Chipola in this vicinity is full
of remarkable springs, caves, and sinks, which cannot be
depended upon to remain the same for any specified time.
Early in the present century, the Apalachicola burst through
into the Chipola, forming the Dead Lake of Calhoun County
(page 12).
232. De Funiak Springs, Walton County (O. H.).
Population, 2,000.
TloT-E-L.— Hotel Chautauqtta, $2 a day.
Railroad. — L. & N. Ed.; east, to Pensacola (80 miles) ; west, to River Junc-
tion (82 miles).
LivKRY.— Saddle horses, 12 a day. Single teams, $3. Double teams, $5.
Guides, $1.50 a day.
A nearly circular lake, which is, in fact, a sj^riug, led to
the establishment of the county seat, and of the prettiest
modern village in West Florida.
The lake is, according to local authorities, 64 feet deep
and 300 feet above tide-water. On the bluffs surround-
ing the lake are the assembly buildings and many cottages
of residents. A plank walk, well shaded by the forest trees,
follows the line of houses overlooking the lake. Here, too,
are branches of the State Normal School, a United States
Experiment Station, and Presbyterian and Methodist
Churches. Cotton and sugar-cane are successfully raised,
and olive-trees grow in the open air. Tobacco culture and
cigar-making, and brick-yards are among the promising in-
dustries, but they will not be allowed to mar the beauty of
the place. De Funiak stands in the healthful high pine re-
gion, but as the laud slopes to tlie southward the pines give
way to a hammock growtli which extends to the belt of fiat-
woods along the coast.
The " Florida Chautauqua Assembly," referred to above,
is intended to afford in a mild climate the advantages of-
fered by the famous Northern institution. Full information
may be had by addressing the Secretary at De Funiak Springs.
23
354 MILTON— PENSACOL A.
233. Milton, Santa Rosa County (C H.).
Population, 1,200.
I{ailr(jai). — L. & N. Rd. (Pensaco'.a Division) ; southwest, to Pensacola (20
miles) ; east, to River Junction (141 miles).
One of the old towns of West Florida, retaining many of
the traditional features of Southern society. The streets are
well shaded by fine trees, and with its pretty white houses,
schools, and churches it offers a most attractive api^earance.
Blackwater, just across the river, resembles it in some re-
spects. Both places are largely interested in the lumber
business. On October 25, 1864, Pensacola being held by
the Federals, and Milton by a small detachment of Confed-
erates, an expedition was fitted out at Barancas to proceed
up Black Water River and procure a supply of lumber, of
which there were large quantities along shore. Through a
misapprehension of orders the original plan of landing at
Pierce's Mill was abandoned, and the party, about 700
strong, proceeded to Milton where they landed and had a
brisk skirmish with the Confederates who were stationed
there, driving them out of the town and holding the place
till the next day, when, after destroying some Confederate
stores, the detachment returned to Barancas.
210. Pensacola, Escambia County (C. H.).
Population (1890), 11,751.
Lat. 30° 23' N. Lonor. 87" 12' W.
HoTSL. — Tlie Continental, $3 to $4 a day.
Railroads.— Louisville & Nastiville (Pensacola Division) ; east, to River
Junction, 161 miles (7 h. 50 min.) ; Pensacola & Atlantic Rd. to Mobile, New
Orleans, etc.; Pensacola, Fla., & Perdido Rd.; west, to ilillview, 10 miles.
History.
Pkobablt the first European crew to sail into the magnifi-
cent harbor of Pensacola was that of Miruelo, a Spanish
pilot, who found the natives friendly, traded off his cargo
of trinkets for silver and gold, and returned peacefully to
Cuba (1516). Next some of Hernando de Soto's men re-
discovered the harbor about 1536, but no use was made of
PENSACOLA. 355
it, and in September, 1558, Guido de Labazares, after a
thorough examination of the coast with a view to permanent
colonization, decided in favor of Pensacola Bay, which he
named Filijjina, and reported accordingly to his chief, the
Governor of Cuba.
A strong expedition was sent out under Tristan deLuna in
1559, with a view to permanent settlement at Pensacola, but
he went instead to Ichuse (Santa Eosa Bay), where he lost
everything in a hurricane. Miruelo named the bay after
himself ; Tristan called it Santa Maria in 1558, and in 1693
Don Andre de Pes added " de Galva," in honor of the then
Governor of Mexico. The eastern part of the bay is still
charted as St. Maria de Galvez, but this de Galvez is another
man altogether, not born till nearly a century later.
The present name Pensacola is probably that of the Indian
tribe inhabiting the vicinity. It api:)ears on Delisle's map
(1707), and was probably applied to the surrounding country
by the Spaniards for many years before that time.
In 1696 Don Andre d' Arriola took possession, and built
Fort San Carlos, whose ruins may still be seen near Fort
Barancas. He made the beginnings of a permanent settle-
ment, but everything was destroyed by the French in 1719,
and during the better part of that year the place was a bone
of contention, the Spanish in the end coming ofif second best,
and leaving the French in possession till 1722, when dii^lo-
macy stepped in and confirmed tjie Spanish claim. The
town was soon rebuilt on Santa Eosa Island, near where Fort
Pickens now stands. A print made from a sketch taken in
1743, and published in Jeffries' narrative, shows a stockaded
fort, a government building, a church and thirty or more
lesser structures.
In 1754 a hurricane, in conjunction with a high tide,
proved the insecurity of the locality, and the i:):esent site
was selected. In 1763 Florida was ceded to the Englisli,
and nearly all the Spanish residents removed to Cuba.
France and Spain, however, made friends in 1781, and tinder
Don Galvez, of Louisiana, and the Spanish Admiral Solano
laid siege to the British garrison in Pensacola. The place
was strongly defended by two well manned forts, St. Mi-
356 PENS A COLA.
cliael and St. Bernard, but the accidental explosion of a
magazine compelled surrender after twelve days of bom-
bardment. A very creditable Spanish engraving of 1783
commemorates this triumph over the Engiisli, and with
free, artistic license represents the instant of the explo-
sion.
The ruins of Fort St. Michael are still to be seen near the
head of Palafox Street. This surrender occurred May 9,
1781. Two years afterward Spanish possession was con-
firmed by re-cession on the part of England, and Pensacola
saw no more powder burned in earnest until 1814, when
with Spanish consent the English under Colonel Nichols gar-
risoned the forts at Barancas and Santa Rosa and hoisted
the British flag. England being then at war with the Uni-
ted States, Nichols issued a proclamation urging the inhabi-
tants of Louisiana and Kentucky to join his standard. In-
dian massacres were incited along the border, and summary
measures were necessary. This was in August. On Novem-
ber 6th General Andrew Jackson, with 5,000 Tennesseeans
and a number of Indian allies, was before Pensacola. Ee-
connoitring parties were fired upon from the forts, and
Jackson prepared to storm the place. By clever manage-
ment he carried the outworks, and gained possession of the
town with trifling loss on November lith.
The Spanish governor jjromised the unconditional surren-
der of the forts in return for a promise of safety for the
town, but during the succeeding night the British aban-
doned St. Michael and St. Bernard, blew up Barancas, and
escaped to sea. Jackson withdrew after occupying the
place for two days, and marched eastward, where he subdued
the Indians and remained in the vicinity to preserve the
peace. In 1818 ho was again obliged to occupy Pensacola,
to show the Spaniards that he was in earnest. This and
other proceedings of an energetic character on the i:)art of
Jackson opened the eyes of Spain to the American idea of
" manifest destiny," and in 1819 negotiations were begun
which resulted in cession to the United States.
Pensacola was too strong to sufier materially during the
Seminole wars, and thanks to her fine harbor, which was
PEXSACOLA. 357
made an important naval station, in 1830 she became the
most considerable seaport in Florida.
Florida passed her Ordinance of Secession on Jannary 10,
1861. By that time the movement at the South had devel-
oped great strength, while divided counsels and an uncertain
policy at the North still prevented summary measures for the
suppression of armed rebellion. The garrison of Fort Bar-
ancas during the winter of 1860-61 consisted of a company
of the First Artillery, forty-eight men, commanded by Lieu-
tenant A. J. Slemmer. Throughout the winter the attitude
of the authorities of Florida and Alabama had become more
and more threatening, until, on January 8, 1861, Lieutenant
Slemmer notified General Scott, Commander-in-Chief at
Washington, that the danger was imminent. That same
night a company of about twenty men approached Fort
Barancas, hoping to take possession unopposed. A ser-
geant's guard had, however, been stationed in the fort and
when this was discovered the intending assailants retired.
The incident was enough to show the danger of delay and
on January 10th, Lieutenant Slemmer removed his command
to Fort Pickens, where he could offer formidable resistance
even with the small force at his disposal. Captain (after-
ward Commodore) James Armstrong, U.S.N., a Kentuckian
by birth, was in command at the Navy Yard, having two
vessels at hand, the Supply, Captain Walker, and the Wyan-
dotte, Captain Berryman, with a few men available for de-
fence. From Lieutenant Slemmer's report of the transfer of
troops and munitions it is apparent that he distrusted Cap-
tain Armstrong's loyalty. At all events he failed to secure
much-needed assistance from the Navy Yard, but eventually
effected the transfer of his command and, at cost of arduous
labor day and night, put the fort in passable condition for
defence.
On the morning of January 12th the surrender of the Navy
Y''ard was demanded by Colonel "William H. Chase, com-
manding some twelve hundred Confederate trooiDs, and
Captain Armstrong capitulated, effectual resistance being ob-
viously impossible. The few' men stationed at the yard were
mustered near the flag-staff when the Confederates marched
358 PENSACOLA.
in unopijosed, and Lieutenant Renshaw ordered William
Conway, a seaman grown old in the service, to haul down
the flag in token of surrender.
The habit of obedience is strong in a man-of-war's man,
but Conway was equal to the occasion. He is said to have
used tolerably strong language toward his suiaerior officer
in refusing to obey this unprecedented command. Conway's
faithfulness under exceptionally trying circumstances was
promptly recognized and rewarded by Congress. But there
were plenty of hands ready to do the service, and presently
the anxious little garrison at Fort Pickens sorrowfully
watched the United States ensign lowered from the Navy
Yard flag-staff while the Confederate colors rose to its place.
After the surrender of the Navy Yard, Lieutenant Slem-
mer was reinforced by the 31 faithful seamen who refused to
desert their colors, and now had 82 men all told, including
nominal non-combatants, to defend a fort designed for a gar-
rison of 1,200 men. The same evening, just after retreat, a
deiDutation of Confederate officers, headed by Captain Ean-
dolph, presented themselves at the gate of Fort Pickens,
asked for the commanding officer and made a demand for
the surrender of the fort in the name of the States of Florida
and Alabama. Slemmer replied that he was there under the
orders of the President and that he recognized no right of
any governor to demand a surrender of United States prop-
erty.
On January 15th Colonel Chase made a formal demand
for the surrender, jDresenting, in temperate and courteous
but forcible terms, the futility of resistance. Slemmer an-
swered as before, saying that while he dejirecated bloodshed
he would defend his post until compelled to surrender.
In the meantime the little garrison had been working all day
strengthening the defences, lying by the guns at night on the
rain-swept parapet, often called to quarters by false alarms,
and wellnigh exhausted. Not a word of complaint was ut-
tered, however, and under exceptionally trying circum-
stances a vigilant watch was maintained until eventually re-
inforcements came from the North. Much credit is due to
Colonel Chase, whose i^rudent course undoubtedly restrained
PENSACOLA. 359
precipitate action on the part of the half-disciplined troops
then under his command. He was a native of Massachusetts
and a graduate of West Point. Until he resigned from the
army in 1856 he was an officer of the engineer corps, and the
forts at Pensacola were largely constructed under his suj^er-
vision. Knowing the strength of the works, he used all his
influence to prevent an attack which must have resulted in a
bloody rei^ulse. Colonel Chase took no further active part
in the rebellion, being probably somewhat distrusted by the
Confederate authorities because of his Northern birth. He
died in Pensacola in 1870.
The U. S. steamship Brooklyn, with a company of the First
Artillery under Captain Vodges, had arrived off Fort Pickens
on January 6th, but found orders forbidding the reinforce-
ment of the garrison pending negotiations for a compro-
mise with the seceding States then in progress at "Washing-
ton. Influential Floridians represented that should Pickens
be reinforced it would be impossible to prevent an attack
from the somewhat lawless and undisciplined levies that
garrisoned the shore batteries.
Until March this state of things continued, but by the 13th
of that month the authorities at Washington decided that
further delay was useless, and ordered the reinforcement of
Pickens. The order, however, was never received, and the
Confederates continued to erect batteries commanding the
fort and its approaches.
On the 12th of March, negro slaves began to make their
escape from the mainland, under the impression that Fort
Pickens would be a refuge for them. Under the circum-
stances Lieutenant Slemmer, having but a limited supply of
provisions, could only return them as soon as practicable to
the city authorities.
In the meantime the Confederate Government had been
organized at Montgomery, Ala., and General Braxton
Bragg, who had lately resigned his commission in the ser-
vice of the United States, superseded Colonel Chase in
command of the Confederate forces at Pensacola.
It was determined by April 1, 1861, that all forts re-
maining in the possession of the United States must be fully
360 PENSACOLA.
reitiforced. Colonel Harvey Brown was assigned to tlie
command of all United States troops in Florida. During
the night of Aj^'il 12th, a strong force of soldiers, marines,
and seamen was landed on Santa Rosa Island under cover
of darkness, and at last this important post was secure to the
United States. Subsequently a regiment of New York volun-
teers, "Billy Wilson's Zouaves," was sent from the North
and placed in camp on the island, east of Fort Pickens.
On April 26th, according to a contemporary newspaper,
Bragg's forces numbered 8,000, and a semi-circle of fortifica-
tions had been thrown up on the main land, extending from
the Navy Yard to Fort MacEae. The summer passed without
open hostilities, but on October 9tli, the Confederates took
the initiative, landing a force of 1,200 men and attacking the
Zouave camp a mile east of Fort Pickens. The first shots
were fired about 2 a.m. and the attack was successful at
first, dire confusion resulting before the regiment could be
formed. Two companies of regulars were sent from the fort,
and Wilson, having gotten his men in hand, the enemy was
soon driven to his boats. The Federal loss was U killed,
53 wounded and missing. That of the Confederates, 21
killed, 60 wounded and missing. The camp of the Zouaves
was fired, and almost wholly destroyed.
On November 22, 1861, fire was opened from Fort Pickens
upon the Confederate works on the mainland, and the
frigates Niagara and Richviond drew in as near as possible
and devoted their attention mainly to Fort MacRae and the
adjoining batteries. The Confederate batteries responded,
and an artillery duel was kept up for two days. The pur-
pose of the Federal gunners was to destroy the stores and
workshops at the Navy Yard, and do as much damage as
possible to the Confederate batteries. A number of buildings
were knocked to pieces by the shot and shell, and the town
of Warrenton was greatly damaged, being in the direct
line of fire. The loss of life on both sides was trifling, as is
invariably the case in artillery duels where guns are jiroperly
protected.
At 11.30 P.M., May 8, 1862, the Confederates abandoned
their posts in the neighborhood of Pensacola, as is credibly
PENSACOLA. 36i
stated, to reinforce Mobile, An attempt was made by them
to destroy Fort MacKae, the lighthouse, and the buildings iu
the Navy Yard, but as soon as their design was evident to
the commanding officer in Fort Pickens, he opened fire in
the hope of preventing the total destruction of all combus-
tible public property. In this he probably succeeded, for
when daylight came it was found that several buildings at
the Navy Yard remained standing, though preparations had
been made to fire them. Parts of Pensacola were likewise
burned, also the village of Warrenton, near the Navy Yaid.
United States troops took possession and extinguished the
flames where jjossible, and hoisted the stars and stripes once
more over the Navy Yard. As soon as it was light enotigh
to cross the bar, some of the blockading squadron went up to
the city and called upon the authorities to surrender. This
was not accomplished until the arrival of another gun-boat
made it imperative. The people went to work to extinguish
the flames, and iu the course of a few hours comparative
order was restored. No serious attempt was subsequently
made by the Confederates to regain possession of these posts.
Excursions. — The Forts and the Navy Yard. Steamer
from Long Wharf, foot of Palafox Street. The boat stops
at the Navy Yard at night, leaves for Pensacola at 8 a.m. and
3 P.M. Leaves Pensacola for Navy Yard at 10 a.m. and 5
P.M. (Fare for round trip, 50c.) The same boat carries
passengers to Forts Pickens and MacRae, if desired. There
is an old government road in fair condition from Pensacola
to the Navy Y'ard. The trip down the bay is highly enjoy-
able. Ofi'the wharves is usually a busy scene, a large fleet
of vessels loading lumber from rafts alongside. The ship-
ping interests of Pensacola are of great commercial impor-
tance. The latest accessible returns show more than five
hundred entrances and clearances of vessels annually, with
a total register of about 350,000 tons. The main business
is in lumber, the exports amounting yearly to about 140,-
000,000 feet. Besides this there is growing up a large ex-
jDort trade in coal from the Alabama mines, for which tliere
is a large and increasing demand in the West Indies.
The wooded jjoint opposite the city, Santa Rosa Park,
362 PENSACOLA.
separates Pensacola Bay from Santa Rosa Sound. The
opening, Pas.s- VEnte, witli the vessels at the quarantine sta-
tion, comes in sight a few minutes after leaving the wharf.
To seaward are the irregular sand-dunes of Santa Rosa
Island, with Fort Pickens at its western point, and the yel-
low walls and buildings of the Navy Yard on the mainland
opposite. (See historical sketch of Pensacola.) The Navy
Yard is an immense enclosure, now almost deserted. A few
officers are stationed here, with enough artificers and watch-
men to take care of the government property. Some of the
officers' quarters were burned when the Confederate troops
abandoned the place, but, considering the artillery fire to
which they were exposed for two days, the damage was
small. Very picturesque and quiet is the old yard witli its
shaded esplanade, wharves of solid masonry, and well-built
shops, all crumbling through neglect; for, in the judgment
of the authorities, the Pensacola station is no longer of prac-
tical use to the Navy.
Fort Barancas and the lighthouse, with the remains of
the old Spanish fort, are within easy walking distance to the
westward. A company of artillery is usiially stationed at
the fort. No visitor should fail to walk or ride through
these beautiful, though for the most part uneared for,
grounds. No guide is required. The visitor may wander
at will through the extensive works, and watch as long as
he will the schools of mullet playing about the deserted
wharves. At the commandant's office at the Navy Y'"ard,
or at the adjutant's office in Fort Barancas, special directions
or information can always be obtained.
Pensacola Bay (see map, p. 28) divides into three smaller
arms about 10 miles from the Gulf, Santa Maria de Galvez
Bay to the eastward, and Escambia Bay to the westward.
The latter bay is 11 miles long, and 4 miles wide. Into it
flows Escambia River from the north, receiving numerous
tributaries. The bordering lands are in general low and fre-
quently overflowed. Santa Maria de Galvez, about the same
size as Escambia, subdivides again into Blackwater Bay,
which receives a river of the same name, and Cedar Creek.
PENSACOLA. 303
This arm is about 7 miles by 2 luiles, and is full of islands.
Yellow Water River falls into the main arm of the Bay. It
is navigable for small craft some 40 miles from its mouth.
Shoal River, crossed by the railroad about 20 miles east of
Milton, is its i^i'incipal tributary.
East Bay, the easterly subdivision of Pensacola Bay, is a
fine body of water, deep, sheltered, and aflbrding excellent
anchorage. It is about 7 miles long, narrowing at the head
into a small creek. On the southeast it is connected with
Sanjta Eosa Sound, Choctawhatchee Bay, and the Gulf
through Pass VEste.
Big Bayou is an arm of Pensacola Bay, 1| mile above
Tartar Point.
Bayou Chico is a jiretty land-locked sheet of water, for-
merly utilized as a harbor for small craft. On its shores
was Camj) Clinch, during the state of quasi war with Spain
(1814-1818).
Bayou Texar falls into the Escambia Bay a mile above
Pensacola.
Perdido Bay (map, p. 28), into which flows a river of the
same name, separates Florida from Alabama on the west.
It is a land-locked sheet of water with a narrow, crooked
outlet, and a shifting bar with not more than 7 feet at low
tide. The bay itself, however, lias a considerable dejjth,
is 30 miles long, and from 2 miles to 6 miles wide. The
shores are in many places quite high, composed of clay
bluffs, and covered with an almost imbroken forest of pines.
The river is navigable for small steamers about 7 miles from
its mouth. It rises in Alabama, and is a good mill-stream.
Both river and bay abound with fish. A western arm of the
bay is called La Lance, an indication that we are nearing a
region first settled by French. Spanish names are almost
the invariable rule in Florida, but French names predomi-
nate west of Perdido Bay, and the French tongue is still
largely spoken.
J04 THK GULF COAST OF WEST FLORIDA.
250. The Gulf Coast of West Florida.
From Perdido Bay to Cedar Key the eoast sweeps in two
great curves with capes San Bias and St. George between
them. There is no continuous outer line of islands, though
there are very extensive and beautiful disconnected bays at
short intervals as far east as Dog Island. Beyond this the
bays disappear, and from the St. Mark's River to Cedar Key
there is no shelter except for boats of very light draft which
can find their way into the many streams and inlets.
ChoctaiDhatchee Bay (see map, p. 100) lies east and west
■within its outlying islands, about 40 miles, with a width of 7
miles to 15 miles, and from 6 feet to 12 feet of water. Nav-
igation for vessels drawing more than 6 feet is very doubtful,
since the depth of water is much affected by storms, and
many bars extend far out into the bay. The always trust-
worthy sharjiie will however slide safely over most of them.
The shores along the eastern part of the bay are low, and
largely bordered with reeds and grass. Farther to the
westward the land is higher, with frequent shell-hammocks,
pine barrens, and live-oak woods. The Choctmi-Jialchee- River
is.the principal fresh-water tributary of this bay. It rises in
Alabama about 150 miles from tide-water, and is navigable
about 80 miles. The main tributary is Pea River. The last
named is really the larger of the two streams. The confluence
is near the Florida line. Euchee Creek enters from the west-
ward 25 miles from the mouth, and Sandy Creek about 4
miles. From the westward come Holms, Big Bar?-en, and
Pond Creeks, the first named navigable at all times as far as
Big Spring, and to Shackleford, 15 miles farther, during
average high water.
Aliqiia River rises among the " knobs " of Walton County,
springing almost full-grown from the ground. Its total
length is about 25 miles, and it is navigable 15 miles. It
empties into Choctawhatchee Bay.
St. Andrew's Bay (map, p. 102) has 18 or 20 feet of water
on the bar, good anchorage, and jierfect shelter from all
•winds. The bay is very irregular in shape, stretching its
THE GULP COAST OF WEST FLORIDA. 365
arms \\p iuto the country to the N. W. and S. E. for 30 miles.
Hammock Island guards the entrance from the Gulf.
On the 1st and 2d of December, 1863, a destructive raid
was made by a detail of men from the gun-boat Restless along
St. Andrew's Bay, the object being to put an end to the salt-
works, public and private, from which the Confederacy
largely drew its supplies. Nearly two hundred establishments,
large and small, were broken up, according to Eear Admiral
Bailey's report. The town of St. Andrew's was shelled and,
taking fire, was partly burned. A very large amount of Con-
federate salt and stores was thus destroyed. On January 27th
following, another similar expedition ascended the river
above St. Andrew's, and completed the work of destruction
by breaking up some ninety more salt-works.
Wetappo River has its source in \\'ashiugton County, west
of the Chipola. For twenty miles it twists and turns in every
imaginable direction. For the last five miles before falling
into St. Andrew's Bay it is less tortuous, receiving the S. E.
Branch. The branch is easily navigable.
St. Joseph's Bay (map, p. 12) has a wide entrance from the
northwest, with 17 feet of water on the bar. Between False
Cape and the mainland, however, there is a "middle
ground " with 9 feet of water in some places. The main bay
is 7 miles to 8 miles wide, and 2 miles long, its major axis
running nearly north and south. Xear the southeast end of
the bay is a fine island covered with a heavy grove of live-
oak, cedar, palms, and the usual hammock growth of the
Gulf Coast. The crooked island that forms the bay reaches
well out to sea, forming Cape San Bias. Elsewhere, the
sand is blown up into fantastic dunes behind which the pine
forest has secured a foothold, and serves as a landmark to
sailors long before the low-lying shore can be seen. San
Bias light stands on the south jjoint of the cape in Lat. 29°
40' N., Long. 85° 21' W. The light was established in 1847
but abandoned in 1885, and the present iron skeleton struc-
ture erected. The ruins of the old tower and oil room are
still standing 300 yards from the end of the cape in 8 feet
of water. The present tower is 98 feet high. The light
flashes red and white alternately at intervals of 30 seconds.
366 THE GULF COAST OF WEST FLORIDA.
It is visible W^ nantical miles. A dangerous slioal extends
5 or 6 miles southerly from the caije.
Aprdachicolii Bcv/ (see mai?, p. 30) is formed by the islands
of St. Vincent and St. George, is 30 miles long, and averages
8 miles wide. There is generally 14 feet of water on the
bar. St. Vincent's Island, defining the bay on the west, is
roughly speaking, an isosceles triangle in shape, nearly 10
miles on its longer sides. It is covered with a dense growth
of magnolias, live-oaks, and palms, and much of its surface
is green with a natural growth of grass. Fine springs of
fresh-water are found on the island, and a considerable
stream flows into the bay on the eastern shore. St. George's
island, forming the sound of that name, stretches for 40
miles along the coast, generally in a northeast direction.
The seaward side is blown into high ]iarallel saud-ridges,
rising in some places 30 to 40 feet above the beach. Be-
hind these are pines interspersed with occasional hammock,
shallows and marshes forming the inland shore. Cape St.
George light is a white tower 73 feet high showing a fixed
white light visible 14 naiitical miles at sea. The light was
established in 1847. It stands in Lat. 29° 35' 18 ' N., Long.
85° 02' 52" W. Sea-going vessels keep 8 miles oflf shore on
account of shoals making out southward from the cape.
Dog Island, at the eastern extremity of the sound, forms
an admirable harbor.
Appalache Bay (see map, p. 98) is properly only a bight or
irregularity in the coast aifording no safe shelter from south-
erly gales. It is full of reefs and shoals, twenty miles from
shore, and though navigation between these is safe and easy
in calm weather, they are very dangerous to careless na^'i-
gators. Vessels drawing 8 feet may enter Spanish Hole,
where good shelter and anchorage is found. Apj)alache
Bay is bordered to the eastwartl by prairies.
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 367
Miscellaneous Inform jitioii.
Oranges.
The wild Florida orange, while not altogether disagreea-
ble to the tastei, is not generally regarded as edible. It is
largely cultivated for ornamental purposes. The sweet or
China orange is a native of India. Thence it was oiiginally
brought by the Arabs, and found its way to Florida by way
of Spain and the West Indies.
Orange-trees grow, thrive, and ripen excellent fruit all
over Florida, but there are certain districts whei'e they
thrive better and produce finer fruit than elsewhere. The
Orange Belt proper is within the limits of Middle Florida,
but a very large proportion of the crop is grown on the
banks of the St. John's River as far north as Jacksonville.
The Indian River and Halifax River regions produce oranges
that are unsurpassed in beauty, juiciness, and flavor, and
again in the vicinity of Ocala and along the Gulf Coast the
Homosassa orange, originating on Tiger Island, the old
Yulee plantation, is among the choicest varieties.
The question as to the best soil for oranges bids fair to
remain unsettled for many a year. The traveller who is in-
terested in such matter, will hear the most contradictory asser-
tions from equally well-informed and trustworthy experts. In
the " high pine " region he will be told that while fertilizers
should there be used at first, the tree^, require less and
less as time goes on, and after a few years require little, if any-
thing, more than is supplied by nature and ordinary care.
In the low-lying hammocks along the Halifax and Indian
Rivers he will hear that there no fertilizers whatever are
required, that in fact they injure the trees and cause the
fruit to deteriorate. So, too, on the high hammocks, and
even among "flat woods," he will find orange-growers who
are prepared to demonstrate that no other lands can produce
equally fine oranges.
The only fair inference is that all these difi"erent condi-
tions are good, each in its own way. As to which soil or
which district produces the finest fruit, or which particular
308 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
kind of fruit is finest, individual preferences or prejudices
must govern. Among the most famous orange groves are
the following : The Dummit Grove on Indian River, near
Hanlover, Brevard County ; the Harris Grove, near Citra,
Marion County ; the Hart Grove, near Palatka, Putnam
County ; the Belair Groves, near Sanford. Orange County ;
the Tiger Tail Island Grove, near Homosassa, Citrus
County.
The Florida orange is probably the finest in the world, as
even European experts are beginning to acknowledge. Its
superiority lies in the thinness of its skin, rendering it easier
to eat without tasting the acrid oil as with the thick-skinned
varieties ; and in its jieculiarly abundant juiciness, and deli-
cious flavor. These qualities are especially noted in semi-
troj^ical Florida, where occasional light frosts seem to bene-
fit rather than injure the trees when once they have matured.
In Florida orange-trees begin to bear eatable fruit at 5 to
8 years from budding, on good stock. From the seed they
require from 10 to 20 years, and in any case are not certainly
" tnie " to the seed. How long trees will live and flourish
is not yet certain, since the oldest known specimens in Flor-
ida are not more than 50 years old. In Spain there are
orange-trees with an authenticated record of 700 years, and
at Hampton Court, in England, there are specimens that
liave been growing under glass nearly half as long.
The brownish or rusty appeai'ance of many Florida oranges
is only objectionable because it detracts from the beauty,
and therefore from the market value of the fruit. It is
caused by a minute insect that punctures the skin so that
the essential oil exudes and oxidizes on exposure to the air.
The flavor of "rusty" oranges is by many believed to bo
better than that of the jmve golden specimens. Oranges
generally ripen during January and February, and will hang
upon the trees in perfect condition until summer is well ad-
vanced. If permitted to remain on the trees, however, they
are subject to many dangers that may be prevented by
gathering and storing.
The Florida orange crop of 1889-90, according to the
trustworthy returns of the transportatioii companies, was, in
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 369
round numbers, 2,000,000 boxes. This, of course, represents
only the amount shipped for a market, and does not include
home consumi:)tion.
Lemons.
Lemon-trees are rather more sensitive to cold than oranges,
hence they cannot be regarded as a safe crop in the northern
part of the State, though under exceptional conditions they
^vill grow up to the Georgia line. They require a dry soil,
and will not grow on the hammocks. The Florida lemon
does not yet command the market. It has the reputation of
being too big, too thick-skinned, and not satisfactory in flavor.
All these faults are probably due to lack of intelligent culti-
vation. It is believed by many jjlanters that the lemon will
at no very distant day rival the orange as a profitable crop.
Fine lemon groves may be seen in Belair County, and smaller
ones are scattered throughout the Orange Belt.
Ijimes.
Limes will gi'ow safely and well under ordinary conditions
south of Palatka, and in favorable localities somewhat far-
ther north. The variety common in Florida is a native of
Mexico. The fruit is available for many of the uses that
create a demand for lemons. It is more generally used
abroad than in America, but is steadily gaining favor.
Limes are generally raised from the seed, and require little
care. It will come into profitable bearing, say 3,000 limes
to a tree, in about twelve years.
Citrons.
In Florida two varieties of this fruit are successfully cul-
tivated, namely, the orange citron and the lemon citron. Its
value arises from its thick, fragrant rind, which is preserved
and candied for the use of cooks and confectioners. The
curing process has only of late been perfected, but the
Florida product is now making its way in the home mar-
kets.
24
370 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
Grape Fruit.
This is, by good authority, regarded as a variety of the
Shaddock, but its habit of growth is peculiar, hanging in
grape-like bunches, and its flavor is a refreshing combina-
tion of acidity, bitterness, and grapes. The liking for it,
like that for fresh figs, has often to be acquired. Grai)e
fruit is becoming quite popular in the Northern markets,
which it reaches in December or thereabout.
Pineapples.
The successful cultivation of pineapples on a large scale
and for market is a new industry in Florida, and has not
yet enacted for itself a regular code of laws. The pine is
largely an air-plant. It thrives on third-class pine land on
the bluffs of Indian River, and on the coralline keys of the
far south. The finest existing plantations are at Eden,
some 20 miles above Jupiter Inlet, on Indian River. The
pineai)iile bears fruit once and then dies, "suckers" spring-
ing up from the base of the leaves near the ground. From
these suckers the plant is propagated, as also from the
" crests " of the leaves, from certain tufts called "crown-
lets," from "slips," and from "eyes." Indeed, the whole
plant fairly bristles with regenerative processes, the suckers
being generally regarded as affording the best and surest
growth. Within a few years an enormous number of jjine-
apples will be grown in Florida. The demand is not only
for table use, but for various extracts and flavors used by
confectioners.
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 371
The Native Races of Florida.
At the time of its discovery by the Spaniards, in 1513, pe-
ninsular Florida appears to have been peopled by a race sim-
ilar in manners, language, and customs to the Lucayans
of Bahama and the Caribs of the West Indian and Wind-
ward Islands. The word hammock, frequently used in this
handbook, and meaning land whereon hard wood grows, is
the sole survival in English of the original tongue. These
people were largely agricultural, were bold navigators, and
brave warriors. There were several confederacies within the
peninsula, often at war with each other, but generally pre-
serving their indei^endence. Such were the provinces of
Tegesta and Caloosa where now are Dade, Munroe, and Lee
counties. The region of Tampa Bay was Tocobaga, and op-
posite, on the Atlantic coast and the St. John's River, was the
dominion of Utina, who held court on a large domiciliary
mound near the outlet of Lake George. Toward the north
and west these Carib races became merged in the Red
Indian type, notably the Apalaches, who were, even in
Soto's time, the acknowledged superiors of all the other
tribes. Their territory was between the Suwannee and Ap-
palachicola Rivers. Soto found them almost half civilized,
and left them with their chief towns in ashes and most of
their warriors slain.
All the early explorers speak admiringly of the natio
Floridian races. They were of large stature, light olive-
brown in color, and given to tattooing their skins. They
were very intelligent, ready to learn, and often possessed of
courteous, dignified manners. In the beginning they wore
disposed to be friendly to Europeans, but very naturally
resented attempts at conquest, and proved their dauntless
courage on many a hard-fought field. Early in the eighteenth
century serious dissensions arose among the Creeks and
Clierokees of Alabama, and under the leadership of one Se-
cotfee a strong party seceded, invaded the Alachua region,
subjugated the surrounding tribes, whose strength had
been broken by the Spanish scourge, and became known as
" Seminoles," or outlaws. Other northern tribes, as the
372 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
Yemassees and others of the Creek family, followed their
example, and by the beginning of the nineteenth century
the Seminoles had overran the State and the native Flori-
dian had disappeared, or intermarried to an extent that left
few traces of his existence.
Seminole Words, Phrases, Names, etc.
For the following list of words and their meanings the au-
thor is indebted to memoranda furnished by Mr. Kirk
Munroe, in addition to that published in the "Florida An-
nual; " to lists and chance references in Sprague's "Florida
War," and to Indians and hunters whose versions, if some-
times confusing, have in general verified the accuracy of
the vocabulary. So far as known, no systematic attempt
has ever been made to codify this language beyond imper-
fect vocabularies compiled at random, as in the present in-
stance. It has no written signs save rude hieroglyphics, has
no word for a Supreme Being, and apparently no conjuga-
tions and inflexions. The accent falls almost invariably
upon the final syllables Tcah, 2^ah, nah, and the like, which
one is tempted to regard as different pronunciations of one
and the same word— an article, perhaps. It is very diflScult
to convey or obtain a translatable idea from a Seminole.
Few of them are willing to impart any information concern-
ing themselves or their language. In conversation among
themselves they iise the long, clumsy names given in the
vocabulary, even for the commonest articles of every-day
use.
Alachua (name of couuty). Big Jug,
place where waters go down.
Alligator, Al-la-pat-tah.
Alive, A-lat-tchuni-pah.
Ainerican, Fat-shay-not-kah.
Arm, Tche-suk-pah.
Astonishment, expression of, I-ce-lah.
Axe, Pot-sas-nah.
Bad (adj.), Hnl-wah.
Bad (no good, exclamation of con-
tempt). Ho-lee-wah-gus.
Bad(Thatisabadman), /s-<e-ft»?.i-wrtA-
stciiay. I Bird, Fus, or, Fns-wah.
Ball, Po-ko. \ Bitter, sour. At-ma/i.
Ball, Come and play ball, Po-ko-tchah-
liss-lchai/.
Basket, Tchmn-pah.
Bat, Snk-biil-hah.
Bay-tree, Is-to-riiik-ko.
Beads, Tchak-e-shah.
Beads. Kon-no-wah.
Beads, Ka-koo-sec (Sliccosukee).
Bear. No-koo-see,
Bed, To-pah.
Bed, Pn-ta-kah.
Bewildered. B-soo-hah.
Big swamp, Hay-u.p-pah.
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
373
Black, Lvs-tee.
Black man, Is-te-lus-tee.
Black water, Wee-lus-tee (a ceremonial
drink).
Blanket, Ah-tchee-tah.
Blood, Chat-tay.
Blue, .'•o-pafi.
Boat (see Ship), Pith-Jo.
Book, Sah-koo-tchee.
Boy, Tchee-paw-ncc.
Branch (creek), Hat-tchu-tchee.
Brave, a brave man, Is-te-han-naw-
no-irah-mas-tchay.
Breast plate or Bracelet, Tchal-luk-
an-aic-vKih.
Bread, Tok-lee-kee.
Brother, Tchah-see.
Brother (young), Tchee-tchah-see.
Buck (see deer).
Butterfly, Tiif-oo-lah-pah.
Buzzard, Soo-lee.
Camp, Is-tah-ah-poo.
Camp, Tcho-ko.
Canoe, Pith-lo (see ship).
Cannon, It-tcha-kluk-ko.
Cat-fish, Tsa-Io.
Cedar, Ah-tchee-nah.
Cider, beer, ifee-tok-see.
Chair, seat, Ol-li-gah-tah.
Chief, Mik-ko.
Cloak, jacket, Kah-pah.
Cocoanut, Tah-lah-so-kah,
Come here, At-tess-tchaJc.
Corn. At-tehee.
Com dance, Foo-skee-tah.
Council house, Tim-pah-nah-kluk-ko.
Council house, Mik-ko-et-shay (the
Isjne stands strong).
Covering, Huk-sah-kee.
Cow, Wah-kah (Prob. Spanish Vacca).
Crane (sand hill crane), Wah-too-lah.
Crazy, mad, Had-jo.
Crow, Osh-hah-hah-nah.
Cup, Ah-loo.
Curlew (red), Ah-lo-lo-tchah-iee.
C)-press, Ah-tchee-nah-ho.
Dance house, E-pah-lah-kluk-kah.
Dark, Fo-not-tchah.
Daughter, Tchak-shos-tee.
Day, day star (see to-day), Xeth-lah.
Day after to-morrow, Pdk-see-ah-sah-
mah.
Day after the day after to-morrow,
Fok-see-ah-sah-mah-sat-ly.
Deer, E-tcho.
buck, E-tcho-han-aw-no-ivah.
doe, E-tcho-hot-kay.
fawn, E-tcho is-tchay.
Deer fly, S!o-no.
Deer skin (dressed), Tcho-see.
Deer skin dresser, Hee lali.
Dirt, Foo-kee.
Doe (see deer).
Dog, E-pah or E-fah.
Dog (big dog), Wus-lee.
Don't know, Stoon-tish.
Dove, Fat-e-lcho-lee.
Dress, Hoo-nah.
Drum (fish, also probably the military
drum I, Kax-ah-lal-ki.
Duck, Fut-tcho.
English duck, Fiit-tcho-kliik-ko.
Summer duck, Filt-tclio-tcfies-iee-
kus.
Eagle (golden), Tah-tchee-lah-7iee.
Ear, Hatch-ko.
Earring, Hatch-ko-tot-kah.
Eat, Hum-hux-tchay (or jay).
Emathla (Charley Emathla was a fa-
mous chief), leader.
Englishman, Met-ah-tchak-ul-kah.
Eye, IV/t-lah-icah.
Everglades, Fah-ha-yo-kee (much
grass in water).
Fawn (see deer).
Feather, Tchak-tee-kah.
Feather, Toii-fah-fah.
Fire, Loot-kah.
Fish, 2'o-tee-kah.
Fire fly, Hock-tah-lat-kay.
Ford, Fil-lat-kah.
Fort (enclosure), To-pee-kee.
Frog, Soo-pat-kah.
Frock or skirt, Hun-nah.
Flute, fife, Fiff-pah.
Girl, Hock-to-tehee.
Give, give me, Ah-mu-tchah.
Go, or I go, Hi-e-pas {tehah, some-
times added).
Good. Hin-dl-stee.
Good, too good, Hin-dl-mah.
Good-by, Ilccp-ah-non-es-tchah.
Good-morning (I am here), Ah-lah-
kay-is-tchay.
Good I It is well, Hink-lah-mas-
tchay.
Not good. It is not well, Hull-wax-
tchay.
Gone, all gone, ,^'ooks-tchah.
Gopher (land turtle), Ko-wee-kah.
Grass, Fah-kee.
Green, Ah-ko-lah (Ocala ?).
Ground, E-kun-nah.
Gum-tree, Hell-lo-kop-kee.
Hair, Gi-see.
Half-breed (of a mixed race), Mal-ee-
tul-kah.
Hammock, Et-say-tchah.
Scattered hammocks, Pil-lak-li-ka-
ha.
Hand, In-kee.
Hand, Tc.hin-kee.
or
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
Handkerchief, E-no-chee-aw.
Hat, Kap-hah-to-kah.
Hatchet, I'ut-tehus-wah.
Head, E-kar.
Hero.1, Wah-ko.
Horse, E-tcho-lo-ko.
House-fly, Tchah-nah.
Houses (the red houses), Tchu-tchu-
tchat-te£.
Husband, E-hee (also an expression
of affection).
He (pronoun), Ts-iee.
Hard, Hun-ee-lnh.
Very hard, Hun-ee-lah-raas-tchay.
Heart, Ef-fah-gah.
High, ui-uay.
Hill, E-kon-huU-wah (tall ground).
How are you (to the sick only) ? Tchee-
hell-lo-see-lee.
I, myseli; Ah-ho-wah.
I do not understand, Git-lo-sthah.
Ice, Hit-to-tay.
Ibis, Kat-kat-ah-ivah.
Indian (red man), Is-tee-tchat-tee.
Icheepopkasassee (name of a place),
a place where deer feed, a deer pas-
ture.
Koehadjo (a famous chief). Mad part-
ridge.
Knife, Slaf-kah.
Know (I don't know), Sien-to-see.
Lake, It-tee-ni-ah.
Lake, Wet-ee-kah.
Lake, Wee-pal- !o-hee-see.
Leader, E-mathlah.
Leggings, U-fe-e-tah-kah.
Leggings (lower), Tak-full-wah.
Lie, It is a lie (literally, that fellow
lies much), Is-tee-loik-say-tak-inas-
tchay.
He lies, Is-tez-lock-say.
Light (not dark), Sa-path-at-kee.
Little (diminutive). Tehee.
Little boy, Hun-nah-nu-tchee.
Little girl, Is-tah-tchee.
Magician, Is-tee-hiil-wah.
Magnolia, 0-kee-tvk-su,
kluck-ko.
Man, Han-nah-icah.
Mantle, Kap-pah-klut-ko.
Maple, Hah-no.
Match, E-sah-tooU-kah.
Medicne bag, Hal-ist-chaio-ioay.
Mile, distance, Ah-kas-kah.
Mirror, Stok-hiteh-kah.
Moccassin (shoe), Stal-lah-pee-kah
Moccassin (snake), Wee-hat-kay.
Mocking bird, Fus-way-hnh-yah.
Money, Sah-to-kah-no-wah.
Moon, Hak-less-see,
Moon, Xeth-Jee-hass-see.
Mother, Tchat-skee.
Mole, To-kah-lee.
Mouth, Tchuk-wah.
Mosquito, 0-kee-hah.
Muskmelon, Fo-miss-tehah.
Moustache or beard, Tchak-ig-say.
My own, E-ree.
Mystery, Wah-kull-lah.
Needle, SJah-po-fah.
Night, J^etk-lee, or Yo-mot-skay.
Necklace, neckerchief, Sotch-kah.
No, Coo-ree.
Oak, Al-lal-kah.
Orange (sweet), Tah-lah-kah.
Orange (bitter), Yah-lah-hah-at-mah.
Orator, Yah-tee-kah.
Orator, Yah-tee-kah-kluk-ko.
Owl, Hup-pec.
Osceola (name of a Seminole chief),
Rising Sun.
Palm, \
Palme to, or [ Tah-lah.
Saw palmetto, )
Palmetto, Tah-laMo-ko.
Palmetto (cabbage palm), Tah-lah-
knl-kee or kluk-ko.
Paroquet, Po-tchee-lah-nee.
Partridge, Ko-ee.
Pelican, Sok-pah-kah.
Pen (yard), To-po-pee-kee (see fort).
Pencil, Svat-tchah-kah.
Pepper range, Ho-mo-sass-sah.
Person, Is-ie.e.
Pigeon, Pit-tehee.
Pine-tree, 7Wnt-lee.
Pipe, E-tekee-pffk-imh.
Pithiocoochee (name of a river). Can-
oe creek.
Plaza, a public square, Tckuk-ko-
kluk-ko.
Potato, Ah-hah.
Pretty (adj.), Hain-klits.
Pretty (you are pretty), Tchee-hink-
lass.
Rabbit, I'cho-fee.
To-lo- Rain, Oos-kee.
Rattlesnake, Tchit-ta-la-koo.
Rattlesnake poison, Antidote for,
Pah-sah.
Racket-stick, To-ko-ne.
Red, Tchat-tee.
Red-bay-tree, Itto-mikko (chief-tree).
Red bird, Fus-tehat-te.
Red man, Is-te-tchat-ie.
Rifle, E-tchas-ata-he.
River, creek, Hat-tehee.
River, Wee-chik-ko.
Salt. 0-kah-kan-ah-icah,
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
375
Sand &y. Itch-kah-picsh-wah.
Savanna, prairie, Wee-hai-kay.
Scalp, yurii-har.
Scalp-lock, Is-say.
Scissors, .Su-Ui-kah,
Seminole, Outlaw, wildman, runaway.
Shingle, Ah-tchee-nah.
Shi 3, large vessel, Pith-lo-hok-to.
Shirt, U-kotr-ko-tah.
Shin, Tok-sah-kee.
Shoe, Still-lee-pi-kah-icah-kce.
Short, Kah-tchuk-kah-no-sis (add
tchay for "very short "j.
Sister, E-wan-mah.
Sit down, Lah-gas-tehay.
Sit down (an expression used only in
early morning), Hah-hat-kee-hinks-
tchth.
Small, Trhat-wah.
Smoke, Ho-pat-kah.
Snake, Tchit-tah.
Snow, Hit-to-kay-hat-kay.
Son, Tchnh-poot-see.
Soup, S'lff-kee.
Spaniard, Sjian-al-kay.
Spirit (a spirit!, Wy-ho-icay Calso
alcoholic liquor).
Spoon, Hok-kah.
Spring of water, Wee-ki-vah (see We-
kiva).
Spy, scout, Is-tee-kay-tchul-kay (one
who has gone out to see).
Square, Tchuk-ko.
Squaw, Hok-tce.
Starch-root, Koon-te-knt-ti.
Star, Hut-te'^-tchum-pah.
Still, be still (used by toys in the
English sense of "shut up "), Wy-
kass-tc/tay or Wy-kay-buss-tckay.
Stone, Tchat-to.
Store, Xis-kat-tcho-ko.
Sugar-cane, JIah-Us-tchum-pah.
Sun, Hass-my.
Sunday, Xeth-lah-tcJiah-ko.
Surprise, exclamation of, Hi-ee-lah.
Sweet, 'rchum-jjah.
Table, 0-hom-pee-tah.
Tall, Ull-vay.
Tallahassee, Old cultivation field,
" ancestral acres."
Thread, Ah-fus-icah.
Thunder, Ten-et-kee,
Tiger, Kat-shah.
Tiger-tail, So-ko-tee-mat-lah,
To-day (see Day).
Tobacco, E-chee, or Hit-chee.
Tobacco-field. Hit-chee-puk-sah-see.
Tobacco - ba g, Ji'- tchee-soo-kah.
To-morrow, Pak-see.
Tongue, Tah-las-wah.
Town, Ta-lo-/ah.
Trader, Is-nee-sah,
Trail, Xee-iiee.
i Tree, It-to.
I Tribe, Al-kee.
1 Trout-creek, Tchu-Iah-pah-pah,
• Turkey, I'em-ce-wah.
Turtle, Lut-Uha.
Understand, I don't understand, KiU
lax-tchah.
Wakulla (name of county). Mystery.
War, So-lee-tah-H-ah.
War-cry, Yo-ho-ee-tchee.
War-cry of victory, Kah-hah-que-nee.
Warrior, Tus-te-nitg-ge (often used as
an affix to a proper name). Add
Kluk-ko for very great warrior.
Watch (time-piece), Has-se-tse-kah,
Water, \yee-u-ah.
Water-melon, Tchas-ta-lay.
Water moccassin, Hah-lo-sok-kah-
tah.
Well, it is welL Hink-lah-mas-tchay.
What, //(.
Withlacoochee (a river), Kiver creek.
When, Sta-mar-tce.
Whip-poor-will, ."iuk-bal-am-bal-lah.
Whiskey, Wy-o-mee.
White, Ifat-kee.
Wife, Tcha-ee.-kah, or Tchee-hi-wah,
Wild cat, Ko-ah-ko-tche2.
Wildman, outlaw, runaway, Sem-i-no-
leh (Seminole).
Wind, Ho-tah-lee, or Hu-lah-lah.
Wind, very high, Uo-tah-lee-mas-
tchay.
Wind, gentle, Ho-tah-lee-sto-mas-sin.
Wolf, Yah-hah.
Woman, Hi-wah, Hok-ta-kay, Hok-
fee, or 0-kee-tee.
Woman (old), Hok-tee-huk-tut-nez.
Womcin (young), Hok-tee-man-nee-
tay.
Wrap or garment, Huk-say-kay.
TeUow, Lah-nee.
Yes, Un-kuh, or ITo.
Young, Man-ah-tchee.
Your, you, Tchah.
Yah-hah-had-go (name of Seminole
chief), Mad-uolf.
Tah-ho-euchee (name of Seminole
chief), The great cloud.
Numerals.
One, Ham-kin.
Two, Ho-ko-lin.
Three, Tut-sa-nan,
Four, Oos-ten.
Five, Tchoc-ta-pin.
Six, E-par-kin.
Seven, Ko-la-par-kin.
Eight, Sen-na-par-kin.
Nine, Oos-to-par-kin.
Ten, Far-lin,
376
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
Eleven, Uam-ko-la-lin.
Twelve, Ho-ko-lo-korlin.
Names of Places.
The following is a partial list of
names of places in Florida, with their
English meauings.
Alachua, The big jug.
Alaqua (see pa'je 1), Sweet gum.
Annutilaga, The laying-down place.
Apopka (see page 228).
Chasehowiska, Pnmpkin Key.
Chichuchaltj', The red houses,
Chokoliska, Old house.
Chuluota, Beautiful view.
Echashotee, Beaver house.
Econhallowey, HiL'h land.
Etawa, A person po'.eing a boat.
Etonia, Palmetto scrub.
Fenhalloway, Young turkey.
Halpatioka, Many alligators.
Hichepoksasa, Many pipes.
Homosassa, Pepper-range.
Istachatta (name of a town), man-
snake.
Istopoga (iste atepoga). Someone
drowned.
Locktshapopka, Acorn to eat.
Miccanopy (a Seminole chx-f. and the
name of a town;. Chief-of-ch:efs.
Myakka, Fine country.
Ocala (name of a town). Green or fer-
tile land.
Okeechobee, Big water.
Okihumkee, Bad water.
Oklawaha, Dark water.
Oklockonee, Crooked.
Panasofkee, Deep valley.
Pilaklalakha, Scatteredhammock.s.
Tohopekaliga, Place of cow pens.
Tathlapopkahatchee, I Catfish eating
Isalopopkahatcbee, f creek (see Ap-
opka ).
Wakahonta, Cow pasture.
Wakasassa (name of town), cow pas-
ture.
Wakulla, Mystery.
Wekewache, Water.
Wekiva, Big spring.
Withlacoochee, Swift river (or "long
narrow water ").
Wewakiahakee, Clear water.
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
377
Comparative Temperature and Rainfall in Florida.
Compiled from the U. S. Weather Bureau Reports.
Mean temperature (in degrees Fahrenlmt) and average rainfall
(in inches and hundredths) at stations of the Signal Service,
United States Ai'my, for each season of the year. ( Computed
from tli€ commencement of ohsercations at each., to and includ-
ing December, 1884.)
Middle Flor
ida, includ
INQ Atlantic
AND Gr U L F
Coasts.
Established.
Jacksonville . . .
Sanfurd
Cedar Key
scbtropicai,
Florida.
Jupiter
Key West
West Flobida.
Pensacola. ... . .
Sept. 11, 1S71.
Sept. 1, 1882.
Nov. 7, 1879.
Jan. 1, 1888.
Nov. 1, 1870.
Oct. 27, 1879.
Mean Temperatcre. ; Average Rainfall.
69.1! 81.4' fi9.9] 56.810 47 17.79 16. 70' 9.74
71.6! 80.5' 73.31 61. 6| 8.4122.35 10.2.3 4.73
70.3 81.7 72.4 60.1: 8.86 24 10 11.72 11.18
72.4 80. Oi 75.7 69.4
76.9 83.8 78.8 70.8
67.9
69.5
6.10 13.4714.80
5.94
56.0 14.34 22.53 15.52 14.92
[The mean temperature is deduced from the three telegraphic observations, taken
at the same moment of Washington time at all stations. The seasons com-
prise the following months : Spring — March, April, and May ; summer —
June, July, and August ; autumn — September, October, and November ; and
winter — December, January, and February. Observations prior to August
25, 1872, were taken at 7.35 a.m., 4.35 and 11.35 p.m. (Washington time);
from August 25, 1872, to November 1, 1879, at 7.35 a.m., 4.35 and 11.00 p.m.
(Washington time) ; and from November 1, 1879, to December 31, 1884, at
7.00 A.M., 3.00 and 11.00 p.m. (Washington time).]
378
MLSCELLAXEOUS INFORMATION.
Average Number of Clear or Pair Days, in each Month
and Year.
Compiled from the U. S. Weather Bureau Reports.
Middle Flor-
ida, INCLUD-
ING Atlantic S
AND G c L F
Coasts.
Jacksonville . . .
Sanford
Cedar Key
Subtropical
Flokida.
Key West
21.9 20 3 25.5 23.9 25.5 22.8 26.1 25.9 21 .8 23 C 20.8 22.4 280.1
22.0126.0 2T.0 26.1! 27.0 23.5 28.5 29.2 23.5 25 5 22.5 27 5 322.0
23.822.0 27.0 26.0 27.0 26.0 26.4 26 6 28.4 27.6 24.2 S5.1 311.0
26.0
West Florida.
Pensacola
20.2
24.5 28.4 27.4 26.6
24.9 25.8
26.2
23 7 24.124.4 26.5
20.6 22.8 22.2 24.2124.2 25.0 25.2,25.4
24.2 21.9 20.2
307.7
274 6
Note. — The Signal Service rates as clear or fair, days that are in the main
suitable for out-of-door life, so far as concerns actual rain. Cloudy days, which,
of coiirso, inalse up the remainder of each month, range from moderately showery
to a protracted downpour.
Population.
Population of Florida, 390,435.
(United States Ce/isus, 1890.)
MISCELLANEOUS IXFORiL\TION. 379
The Game Laws of Florida.*
Non-Residents.— McLellan's Digest, 1881, Chapter 80.—
Sec. 15. It shall be unlawful for any non-resident of this
State to hunt for game of any kind or description, for the
purpose of conveying the game killed or caught beyond the
limits of the State, without first obtaining a license from the
clerk of the county in which he jjroposes hunting, for which
he shall -par the sum of twenty-five dollars ; and in case
there be a company desiring to hunt together under the
same license, they all may be included in one license by pay-
ing an additional five dollars each ; but not more than six
persons shall be included in the same license. [Sec. 16.
Violation a misdemeanor ; penalty, a fine of S50 to 8500, one-
lialf to informer. Sec. 17. The drying, salting, curing,
packing, or caging of game shall he prima facie evidence of
intent to ship.]
Sea Birds and Birds of Plume. — Sec. 19. It shall not be
lawful for any person or persons to wantonly destroy the
nest, eggs, or young of any sea bird or bird of ijlume in this
State, on the land or coast, or in any of the seas, bays, riv-
ers, creeks, or harbors, or within a maritime league of the
coast of said State. [Sec. 20. Violation a misdemeanor;
penalty, fine of 810 to 820.]
Birds of Plume. — Sec. 21. It shall not be lawful for any
person not a citizen of the United States to kill any birds,
for the purpose of obtaining plumes therefrom, on any part
of the coast of Florida, or in any of the bays, rivers, creeks,
or harbors, or inland waters or prairies of the same, or with-
in a marine league of the coast of said State. [Sec. 22.
Violation is a misdemeanor ; penalty, a fine of 85 to 8100.]
Fish Traps, etc.— Act of June 3, 'l887.— Sec. 2. That it
shall be unlawful for any person or jjersons to i^ut, plan,
or maintain any permanent trap or snare, or any other de-
vice that is permanent, for the purpose of catching fish in
any of the lakes or streams in this State, or to use any seine
* From the Game Laws of America, Forest and Stream Publishing Company.
oSO MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.
or drag net for the purjDOse of catching fish in such lakes or
streams during the months of February, March, April, May,
Juno, July, August, and September of each year. [Sec.
2. Violation is a misdemeanor ; penalty, fine of 825 to ??100,
or imprisonment 10 to 40 days. Sec. 3. Officers are autho-
rized to seize illegal apparatus.] Sec. 4. That nothing
in this act shall be so construed as to prohibit any per-
son from catching fish from waters owned wholly by him-
self or herself in any manner thought proper, and nothing
in this act shall i^revent persons from catching fish with a
hook and line, unless the same is done for the jrarpose of
shipping out of this State. [But Sec. 1 of this act, forbid-
ding exportation of fresh-water fish, was repealed by act of
June 4, 1889.]
Food Fishes.— Act of January 28, 1885.— Sec. 1. That it
shall not be lawful for anyone to catch or capture any of
the following fish : Mullet, trout, red fish, sheep's-head, pom-
jjano, mackerel, blue fish, red snapper, grouper, or juarell,
within the waters under the jurisdiction of the State of
Florida, for the purpose of making oil, fertilizer, and compost
therefrom. [Sec. 2. Violation is misdemeanor ; penalty,
fine of not more than ^200, or imj^risonment two months, or
both, at discretion of the court.]
Wanton Destruction of Fish. — McLellan's Digest, 1881,
Chapter 107.— Sec. 8. It shall not be lawful for any person
or persons, citizens or non-residents of this State, with or
without a license, to engage in catching fish for the roes
only, or turtle for the eggs only, or in any manner wantonly
destroying the fish or turtle on the coast of this State.
The Seville
Seville, Voltisia Co.
FLORIDA.
Twenty-eight miles south of Palatka; forty-
two miles south of St. Augustine. On the
ridge between the Atlantic Ocean and the St.
Johns. In the piney w^oods, surrounded by
orange groves and limpid lakes. Supplied with
water, sweet (fiot sulphureous), from a lake
fed by living springs. In salubrious country,
with most approved sew^erage.
BOATING. SHOOTING. DRIVING.
Bath rooms. Fresh vegetables from hotel
gardens. All express trains stop; through
Pullman car on train leaving New York at
9 P.M. daily.
Rates, $3.50 per Day.
HKNRY L. HUNTRESS,
Of (New) Senter House, Centre Harbor, N. H.,
91 A fiXG E R .
Abbey & Imbrie,
18 Vesey Street,
NEM/ YORK CITY.
MANUFACTURERS OF
EVKRY DESCRIPTION OF
FISHING TACKLE,
Send 25 Cents
Kor 136 Page Catalogue.
HOTEL PUNTA GORDA,
PUNT A GORDA, FLORIDA.
Every Room is a Front Room, Facing the Bay.
Opens January ist, i89i.
We take pleasure in announcing to our friends and the pub-
lic that Hotel Punta Gorda will be open about January first, with a
full corns of New England service. This new and beautiful Hotel is
located on Charlotte Harbor at the terminus of the Florida Southern
Railway (now leased and controlled by the Jacksonville, Tampa, and
Key West Railway, which is a guarantee of first-class train service).
All trains arrive at and depart from the Hotel steps. Ticket, Pullman
Car, Express and Telegraph offices in the Hotel.
The Punta Gorda is elegantly furnished, has gas, electric bells, and
open fireplaces ; is three stories high, 150 front rooms with a superb out-
look over the beautiful Bay, which is about one mile across to Hickory
Bluffs. The Hotel has a veranda over 400 feet in length, so arranged
that one can find sunshine or shade at any hour of the day. It has the
finest lawn in Florida, containing over two acres, with beautiful shell
walks, hedges, flower plats, shade and fruit trees. It is supplied with
plenty of soft water and has perfect drainage. The climate at Punta
Gorda is as nearly perfect as any in the world ; free from cold waves,
and tempered by the salt water breezes from the Gulf of Mexico,
which invigorate but do not chill.
A billiard room is connected with the Hotel, and Sail-boats and
Row-boats can always be had. The fine pier directly in front of the
Hotel gives a beautiful promenade. No expense will be spared in the
endeavor to contribute in everyway to the comfort and pleasure of the
guests.
The celebrated Summit Springs mineral water from Harrison,
Maine, will be served free to guests in the dining room.
The only Hotel in the state giving every guest a front room facing
the Gulf waters. It is also surrounded by the best hunting groui;ds in
Florida.
Charlotte Harbor is acknowledged by all to be the finest fishing
ground in the United States. The tarpon fishing with rod and reel
takes the lead, while for the hunter there is an inexhaustible supply of
ducks, wild turkeys, deer and other game.
The Morgan Line ot steamers arrive and leave twice a week for
Key West, Havana, Cedar Keys, and New Orleans.
For terms, etc., address D. H. Swan, 40 Water St., Room 10,
Boston, Mass. After December 20, Punta Gorda, Florida.
D. H. SWAN, Hotel Punta Gorda, Florida.
D. H. SWAN, HARRY B. WARDEN,
Proprietor. Manager.
Also Summit Springs Hotel, Also of United States Hotel,
Harrison, Maine. Atlantic City, N,J.
THE TROPICAL TRUNK LINE
JACKSONVILLE, TAMPA, AND KEY
WEST SYSTEM.
A system of rail and steamer lines, equipped with all the
modern improved appliances for the comfort of tourists, insuring
safe, speedy, and reliable transportation without unpleasant trans-
fers ; covers something more than one thousand miles of tropical
territory, and reaches direct
ALL WINTER PLEASURE RESORTS
of southern Florida. All through passenger trains on this line
carry Pullman Buffet, Sleeping, and Parlor Cars.
ROUTE OF THE WEST INDIA FAST MAIL
Between NEW YORK and HAVANA,
The only line extending to the
FAMOUS INDIAN RIVER.
Direct route to the Orange, Sugar, Tobacco, and Fruit producing
sections of Florida.
For maps, souvenirs, schedules, etc., apply to any ticket agent,
or address the General Passenger Agent, Jacksonville.
Save yourselves annoyance, and economize in the matter of
expenditures on your tours, by securing tickets via the Jacksonville,
Tampa, and Key West System.
D. F. JACK, G. D. ACKERLY,
General Manager, General Passenger Agent,
JACKSONVILLE, FLA.
UD
Cxi
CD
O THt ilBHAUt Of o
^1 \ iir !^
THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
Santa Barbara
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW.
<
.i'«-f ,,*r|
i<iAT:i/ro->-
!1
10 aOOaOMH 3HT
aTv^a OT (i
.. /• •i-^'.i;tio'^
,r^
IH
5\
3 1205 02126 1357
/
UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
AA 000 880 219 i