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THE LIBRARY
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THE UNIVERSITY
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PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A, KOFOID AND
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HANDBOOK
OP
THE RIVER PLATE;
OOMPBISINO
BUBNOS ATEBS» THE UPPER PBOVINOBS. BAUDA
• ORIENTAL, AND PARAGUAY,
BY
M. G. & E. T. MULHALL,
m TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
BUENOS AYRBS:
BTANJOAED PRINnNO-OFnCi; 74 OALLE BELQRANO.
1860.
Price HO per VoUime. ^ j
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\
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TO
HIS EXGBLLENCY D. F. SARMIENTO,
PEBBIDBNt OF THB AJLOXITTXNI EKPUBUC^
THIS WORK
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,
BY
THE AUTHORS.
'^9
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PRESERVATION
copy ADDED
ORIGINAL TO BE
RETAINED
JAN 2 0 1993
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PKEPAOE.
The utility of a work like the present is so manifest as to need neither
explanation nor apology. If possible, it would be desirable to publish a
Handbook of these countries annually, for the use as well of residents in
the River Plate, as of our friends in Europe and the United States.
Unfortunately, the difficulties and outlay are far beyond any profit that the
editors can expect. In fact we lost money by our edition of 1863, the
National and Provincial Governments failing to subscribe for a single copy,
although we had the satisfaction of knpwing that the work was productive
of some good to our adopted country. In the improved and enlarged form
of the present Handbook there will be found very complete and detailed
information of these countries, as we have spared neither labor nor
expense to deserve the approval of the foreign community, which is the
great object we always keep in view. It has been our particular study to
give an exact picture of foreign enterprise and industry in the Eiver Plate,
and the task was, indeed, an agreeable one. At the same time we have
labored to point out to readers in Europe the many advantages which these
countries enjoy, to attract a larger tide of immigration. Nor must we omit
here to bear evidence to the liberal spirit of the institutOons^of these
^ Digitized by VJVJVJ
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Vt P&EFAGB.
Republics, and the kindly feeling and cordiality of all educated Argentineft
and Orientals. In fine, we have every hope that with an increase of
population and industrial resources the Biver Plate will soon follow in the
footsteps of its great model, the United States.
The conclusion of the Paraguayan War and commencement of President
Sarmiento's administration is a most opportune time for the publication of
the present work, in the hope of drawing increased attention to the River
I^late. Under a progressive and peaceful administration we may look
forward to widespread, jmprqvement^ new enterprises, and an increase of
trade and industry. Popular education also bids fkir to make much head-
way, and no branch of knowledge is more important, nor more neglected
in Buei^QS Ayres, than the study of the resource^ of the Argentine
Bepubllc ! I^et. us hope that patriotic Argentines will iqin heart, and hand
^ith foreigner^ tp advt^ca this fine country.
Tolume I. of the Handbook contains three sections, viz.: A., the
Argentine Republic, its colonies, railways, history, public men, &c.; B.,
the City of Buenos Ayres, its buildings, institutions, and port ; C, the
Camps of Buenos Ayres, comprising the various partidos and every estancia
in the province. Volume II. contains four sections:. D., the thirteen
Argentine Provinces; E:, the Banda Oriental; F.^ Paraguay; and G., a
4»niplete Directory, official, foreign, and commeifcialj of Buenos Ayres and
Montevideo, each apart. The maps of the Argentine Republic, Buenos
Ayres city, and Montevideo, will be boi^nd with the second volume.
In giving the Handbook now to the public we feel confident that it will
mieet with a good reception : whatever inaccuracies may have unavoidably
crept in will be corrected in the next edition. We have to thank the
unmerous kind friei lis who contributed interestir^g information abent their
Digitized by VjOOQIC
P&EFACI. Ti&
#wii ptrtieolar district^ and especially the Irish clergjrmen in thecamp,.
to whom we beg to offer a copy of the book gratis for each of their Lending
Libraries. We also offer a copy for each public and charitable institntioifc
of the English, Scotch, American, and German communities on either side
of the Biver Plate. Volume II. will appear on the 1st of Jane, and the
Directory of Buenos Ayres is being carefully compiled by Mr. Frank.
Mulhall, 74 Calle Belgrano, to whom communications may be directed.
M. 6- & E. T. MULHALL.
March IT, 1S60, atattdard Offiet, Buenoi Ayrn. *
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ERRATA.
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^Chapter HI.*
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CONTENTS
OF THE FIEST VOLUME,
SECTION A.
Chap. I. The Bivgr Plak Republic* ; Gtntral Outline .
Argentine Republic, .... ....
. . • •
y/ion.
1
Republic of Uruguay, .... ....
....
2
Paraguay, ....
....
3
Chap. II. The Arg$nHne Republic.
Provinces and Chief Towns, .... ....
....
4
Army Statistics, .... ....
....
6
Financial Statistics, . • . . .... ....
....
9
Agricultural Statistics, .... ....
12
Chap. III. Foreign Popvlalion,
Different Nationalities, .... ....
H
Immigration Statistics,
....
17
Scale of Wages, .... ....
....
18
Chap. IV. Agricultural Colonics.
Santa Fe, .... ....
....
20
Entre Rios, .... .... .... ....
....
28
Buenos Ayres, .... ....
3#
Chap. V. Colofiization of the Chaco.
Indian Reductions,
....
34
Helvetia Colony, .... .... ....
....
39
San Javier Project, .... .... ....
....
41
Land Grants, .... .... ....
• . • .
43
California Colony, .... ....
. • . .
45
Ri vadavia Colony, . . , • ....
DigftiJScTbi
Goc^Ie
COIITElfTS.
Chap. VI. Colonization of Patagonia.
Mr. Bamberger's Grant, ....
<k)x' s Exploring Expedition,
Chilian and Argentine Projects,
The Welsh Colony,
Free Land Grants at Bahia Blanca,
English Settlers on the lUo Negro,
Chap. VII. Bio de la Plata and Tributaries,
General Remarks, .... ....
The Parana — Buenos Ayres to Matto Grosso, ....
Op the Uruguay, ,...
The Salado and Vermejo,
Chap. VIII. Itineraries of the Republic,
General Remarks^ . .
Northern Route, ....
Western Route, .... ....
Ch.4P, IX. EjUerjjrlses, Projects ^ and Concessions
Railways, Telegraphs, &c ,- .... .... *
Harbor Accommodation, .... ....
Drainage and Water Supply, , . . . ....
Export of Cattle, .... .... ....
Chap. X. Treaties of Commerce and Navigation
Treaty with Great Britain, .... ....
Treaty with the United States, ....
Chap. XI. Biographies of Public Men.
President Sarmieptp, .... .•••.. • • r • • • • •
Vice-President Alsina, .... .... .... ....
Ex-Prcsident Mitre, .... .... .... ....
General Urquiza, Archbishop of Buenos Ayres, Governor Castro,
Dt. Velez Sarsfield, Dr. Mariano Varela, Dr. Gorostiaga, ....
Dr. Avellaneda, Colonel Gainza, General Gclly y Obes, ....
General Paunero, Don N. de la Riestra, . . * . ....
Don Mariano Balcarce, Seftor Posadas, .Postmaster-General, Mr.
O'Gorman, Chief of Police, .... ....
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53
55
57
58
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70
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93
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99
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105
HI
113
Hi
115
120
!23
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
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CONTENTS. Xi
Chap. XII. Mining in the Cwjo Provinces,
PAGE.
San Juan, . • • . .... .... .... .... 1 32
Klappenbach's miaes, . • . • . . . • . . . • 133
Babi6's & Fragueiro's works, .... .... .... 139
Hilario Mining Works, .... .... . . • . .... 141
Mendoza, .... .... .... • . • • .... 144.
San Luis, .... .... .... ^ • . • • • • . H7
Chap. Xtll. Hi$tory and Literature of River Plate.
Historical Record, .... . . • . • • . . . . 150
Works Published on the River Plate, 1 52
River Plate Newspapers, .... .... .... 154
Chap. XIV. Moneys^ Weights^ Measures j and Distances .
Buenos Aj res, • • • • . • • • • • • • • ^^6
Montevideo, Paraguay, .... .... . • • • • • • • • 1^7
Table ot Distances from Buenos Ayres, .... .... 158
Meteorological Table, .... 1 GO
Chap. XV. Advice to Emigrants,
Who to come, and who to stay at home, .... .... 161
Steam Service to the River Plate, .... ^,.. . . . .• 163
Letters of Credit, .... .... .... .... 166
Instructions on Landing, .... .... .... .... 167
Chap.' XVI. Itineraries from England and IS'e^v York,
Englandto Buenos Ayres, .... ....i .... 169
New York to Buenos Ayres, .... .... 176
Chap. XVII. Miscellaneous.
Customs Law for 1869, .... , .... .... .... 1 "7
National Stamped Paper, 1869, .... .... 179
Admiuislpation of President Mitre (1862-8), .... .... 181
The National Government, Congress, .... .... .... 187
Courts of Law, Hierarchy, .... .... 1 88
Budget for 1«69, .... .... 189^
Post-oflBceReturns, Comparative Table of Time, Digitized 6y'GoO^ ^^^
XU CONTEN1S.
SECTION B.
Chap. I. Cify of Buenos Ayres.
Early History and Present Condition,
Chap. II. Hotels, Clubs, Theatres, and Plazas.
Hotels,
Clubs, . .
Theatre?,
Plazas,
Markets,
Chap. III. Public Departments.
Government House, Post 0£Bce,Policia,
Provincial Departments, Library, Legislature,
Topograpliic OflBce, Arcliives, Commissariat,
Parque, Congress Hall, Capitania, ....
Municipality, Law Courts,
Board of Health, Lottery, City Prisons,
Museum and University, .... ....
Public Schools, , . . .
Chap. IV. Churches and Charitable Institutions
Churches, .... .... ....
The Irish Convent,
English Church, Scotch Church,
American Church, German Church, Cemeteries,.
Admiral Brown's Jlonument, ....
English Cemetery, Hospitals, ....
British Hospital, ....
Irish Hospital, .... , ....
Convalescencia, Poor and Foundling Asylums, . .
Chap. Y. Streets etnd Shop
Calle Bivadavia,
Streets Ruqning North, ....
Streets Running South, ....
Streets Running West, north end.
Streets Running West, south end,
6
6
8
11
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18
21
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24
26
28
30
32
34
37
38
39
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CCM^TENTS.
\\\l
Chap. VI. The Custom*Jiou$e.
Import Traffic, .... ....
Unloading, ....
Goods in Transit, Direct Despatch,
Passengers' Luggage, Goods for Deposit,
Export Traffic, .... ....
Shipment in Transit, .... ....
Health Papers,
Chap. VII. Boka, Banks, and Public Companies
The Bolsa de Comercio,
The Provincial Bank,
Mau^ Bank, .... ....
English 3ank,
The Argentine Bank,
Wanklyn's Bank, Hart's Bank, the Rural Society,
Insurance and Joint -Stock Companies, ....
River Plate Telegraph Company, Commercial Rooms,
British Clerks' Provident Association,' ....
The Cricket and Athletic Clubs, the Jockey Club,
Chap. VIII. The Suburbs,
Belgrano, .... ....
Palermo, . , . .
Flores,
Barracas, • . . . ....
The Boca, .... ....
South.Barracas, ....
Chap. IX. Excursions by Railway.
The Northern, to the Tigre, .... ....
The Boca and Ensenada Railway, ....
The Western, fo Chivilcoy,
The Southern, to Chascomus, .... ....
Chap. X. Tariffsy Taxes, Regulations.
Provincial Stamped Paper, .... ....
Law of Licences (1 869,) .... . . .
Property Tax, Tariff for Lighters, .... ....
Municipal, Gas, and Sereno Tax, Parochial Division of the City,
Rules of the Faculty of Medicine, .... • • • •
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63
64
65
66
67
69
70
73
75
77
78
80
82
83
84
85
87
88
90
95
97
99
104
107
114
119
121
124
127
12S
o
^1^ CONTEHTS.
Chap. XL The Mouth of the River Plate, and Port of Buenos Ayres,
The Approach to the River,
•.• .... ..
PAOB.
129
Anchorage,
• .... ...
■ 131
The Port of Bueoos Ajres,
132
The OuterRoads,
133
The laner Roads, . ...
134
Position of Buenos Ayres,
136
Pilots
137
The Riaohuelo,
138
Pamperos, ....
141
The Barometer,
148
Temperature,
....
149
Tides,
150
The Route from.Montevideo to Buenos A
yres, . . .
154
The Channels,
• ...
155
Point iTidio,
. ...
158
Advice to Mariners,
.
.. 159
SECTION C.
Chap. I.
The Province of Buenos At/res.
General Description, . ...
.• .... ....' ..
1
Partidos and Towns, ...
. -' .... «... ••
4
Chap. II. , Life in the Camp.
Cattle Farming,
•• .... .••• ••
9
Sheep Farming,
. .... .... ••
13
Chap. III. The Riverine Partidos,
^Belgrano, .... ...
• . • .... • •
20
> San Isidro, * ...
. . • •
• ■ •
21
4 San Fernando, ...
, ...
• . •
23
Las Conchas, ....
• . . .
•
24
>Zarate, .... . ...
> • • V
. • .
27
^ Baradero, ....
. . • •
• a •
28
> San Pedro,
• . . .
• . •
31
i, Rincon de Ramallo,
• . . ■
» • •
33
V San Nicolas^
. . ..
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C0HTE5TS.
Chap. IV. J^V Noiihern Partidos.
Pilar, . . . i
Gapilia del Seflor,
/ San Andres de Giles,
y San Antonio de Areco,
^Carmen de Areco,
/ Salto,
/Arrecifes,
Chap. V. North and West Frontkn:
^ Perganiino, ....
y Bojas, ....
xJunin,
Lincoln, ....
^Chacabuco, ....
Bragado,
y Nueve de Julio,
yc Veinte Cinco de MaycT,
Chap. VI. The Western Partidos.
i San Jose de Flores, ....
/ Halanzas, .... . , . ,
V San Martin, ....
V Moron, ....
/ Merlo, Moreno, .... . , . ;
X Las Heras, Lujan, ....
X Mercedes, .... ....
^ Suipacha, Chivilcoy, , . . ,
Chap. VII. South Western Partidos.
' i Cailuelas, .... .... ....
vKavarro, ....
y Lobos, .... .... .... , , . ^
Cuardia del Monte, ....
VSaladilio, .... ....
><Las Flores, .... .... .... ....
^ Tapalquen, .... .... ....
XT
37
31)
41
42
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71
75
77
79
80
83
86
91
96
101
103
106
108
HI
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Chap. VIII, SmOnern Partido$.
CHiP. IX. South Coast Partidos.
XVI
South Barracas,
Lomas de Zamorra,
San Vicente,
Ranches, ....
Ghascomus, ....
Dolores, ....
Quilmes, ....
Ensenada, ....
Magdalena, ....
Rivadavia, Caslelli,
Tordillo,
Aj6,
Tuyu, ....
Mar Chiquita,
Pila,
Vecino,
Monsalvo,
Ayacucho,
Arenaics,
Ranch,
Azul,
Tandii,
Balcarce,
Loberia,
Necochca, . .
Tres Arroyos,
Bahia Blanca,
Patagones, . .
Chap. XI. The Islands of the Parana.
Description and first settlers, .... ....
Chap. X. The Far South Partidos.
120
121
124
127
131
137
140
145
153
156
158
159
161
162
165
167
168
170
171
172
174
177
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187.
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198
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'r-/^.
SECTIOi^ A.
CHAP. I.
THE RIVER PLATE REPUBLICS.
The River Plate Republics are three in number, viz. : the Argentine
J«ation (or La Plata, properly so called), Uruguay or Banda Oriental, and
Paraguay. These immeMse territories, formerly comprehended in the vice-
royalty of Buenos Ayres under the Spanish regime, cover nearly 900,000
square miles, with a scanty population not exceeding three miUions, or
three inhabitants per square mile. The mineral and agricultural resources
of these countries are perhaps equal to those of the United States, and the
water system is almost unrivalled, the affluents of the Plate ramifying one*
lialf of the Continent. The climate is the healthiest on the face of the .
globe, the inhabitants are very friendly to foreigners, civil and religious
liberty prevaQ in the fullest sense, and treaties' of amity and commerce
have been concluded with all the great Powers. Trade relations and new
enterprises of importance have brought the River Plate into close contact^
with Great Britain vsA the London capitalists, and there are few countries
which offer more inducements t5 EUaglish emigrants than these, or few
foreign nations viewed with more respect, by Argentines, than Great
Britain.
^ The Argehtijhe Republic is for the most part amunbroketl plain, bounded
xm the INkMlh by Bolivia, on the West by the Cordillera of the Andes, on
the South by Magellan's Straits, and on the East by Brazil, Banda Oriental,
and the Atlantic- It is divided into fourteen provinces, some of which
are little deserving of note, but others have attained a high degree ^|g
eivilizalion.
2 THE RIVER PLATE REPUBLICS.
t
The Province of Buenos Ayres is nearly equal to all the rest collectively,
in importance, wealth, and population, being moreover the great centre of
foreign immigration. The city of the same name is the seat of the National
and Provincial Governments, and one of the principal sea-ports of South
America. In the refinement of its society, progressive spirit of the people,
and activity of trade and industry, it yields to no other city in the
Continent, and has earned the titl^ of a Athens, qf $<uith America. » Entre
Bios and Santa £e have of Me attraeted much notice as sheep-farming
countries. Cordoba, the heart of the interior, will soon receive a great
impulse from the Central Argentine Railway. San Juan and Catamarca are
remarkable for their mineral wealth. Mendoza, at the foot of the Cordil-
lera, formerly the chief city of the Cuyo provinces, is hardly emerging
from the ruins of the earthquake of 1861. Santiago and the other
. northern provinces have been hitherto' so isolated as to be almost valueless,
but the projected navigation of the Vermejo, and the opening of a highway
through the Gran Chaco, will unite them ^ith tl^e river Parana, the great
artery of the Republic. The provinces called Litoral, from being adjacent
to this river, have an iminense advantage over the rest,, possessing cheap
freight and eiisy transit to Bueuos/ Ayres and the eommerciial world. The
population of the Republic is usually set down at a million and a half souls,
but is, rather over than under that estimate. The established religibn is^
B9maji Catholic, and the language Spanish, from which nation the original
settlers were descended. •
The Republic of Urvguay, or ccBanda Oriental,)) is separated from
the last-mentioned country by the Rivets Plate and Uruguay : the La Plata,
oppo^^te B^enp^ Ayres, is twenty-ei^t miles wide. It is very different
from the si^r state, in being intersected with numerous chains of moun-
tains, called here Cwchillas or Sierras. Its extent is 63,000 square miles,
or Larger than Ei^gland by one*eighth\ Many of the general features are
^ similar to those of La Plata, the country being eminently adapted for sheep
and cattle farming, and, moreover, free from Iiidiaii incursions. The
capital, Montevideo, is favorably situated near the moirt;h of the Plate,
and its. commerce is almost equal to that of Buenos Ayres, from which port
it is distant 120 miles. The next towns of importance are — Salto and
Paysandti, on the River Uruguay ; Canelones, Tacuaremb6, and Minas, in
' the interior; Mercedes, on the Rio Negro; Colonia, abreast of Buenos
Ayres ? and Maldonado, on ttie Atlantic. The country is thickly wooded
in parts, and presents a beautifully diversified appearance. Of Jate yeara
there has been an immense influx of immigrants, and several Buenos Ayrean
land-owners also possess estancias on this side: the population was
iEPUBLIG OP PARilGUAY. 3
quintupled in the forty years from 1824-64, being now returned as 300^000.
The live stock is considerable, amounting to 8,000,000 head of homed
cattle, 14,000,000 sheep, and 2,000,000 of other kinds. The Custom >
regulations are much more liberal than those of Buenos Ayres ; the religion
and languagi^ are the same. ^ During* the past two years the country was
desolated by civil war, but everything how seems satisfactorily settled, and
the Government is really anxious to improve the means of internal transit^
develop the riches of the Bepublic, and foster foreign immigration.
Paraguay is not always counted one of tl^ River Plate Republics, being
over a thousand miles inland, but we have included it because formerly a
part of the vice-royalty, besides bemg situated on the principal afBuent of
La Plata, and so intimately connected with Buenos Ayrfts'. It is the country
least known of this Continent, and yet had made great advancement in the
years just preceding the 'present war. Up to 1840 it was entirely closed
against foreigners', under the rule of the sanguinary tyrant, D. Caspar
Francia. Railways, telegraphs, arsenal, dry docks, and other splendid
works sprung up of late, employing a large and efficient staff of English
mechanics. The Republic covers about 70,000 square miles, but claims a
much larger territory, the frontiers with Brazil, Bolivia, and La Plata not
being yet clearly defined. The census of 1857 gives a population of
1,337,449. The climate is warm, the country hilly and picturesque, and
the soil fertile. The inhabitants ace the most industrious in South America,
the amount of land under cereals, cotton, and tobacco amounting to half
a million of acres. The chief product of the country is yerba-mate or
Paraguay tea, which, in time of peace, is annually exported (mostly to
Buenos Ayres) to the value of £200,000. The cultivation of cotton was
begun in 1863, but interrupted by the war. The capital, Asuncion, is
a town of 25,000 inhabitants, formerly in weekly communication by steamer
with the River Plate ; it has some fine buildings, but is much behind Buenos
Ayres and Montevideo. Villa Rica is the most important town in, the
interior, and those next in order are situated on the river Paraguay. The
language of the country is Guarani, most of the people being descended
from that race of Indians by inter-marriage with the Spanish settlers.
As yet few foreigners have settled in Paraguay, but the natives are very
kind and affable, and the police organization is perfect. The unhappy war
which broke out in the beginning of 1865 has been ruinous to Paraguay,
but earned for the natives a high reputation for valor.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
b2 ^
THE ARGENTmE R£;PUBIJC.
€HAP. n.
THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC,
This Republic holds the second rank among South American nations, coming
next i^er the Empire of Brazil in extent and importance, though com-
paratively low in the scale of population and native industry. There is,
probably, no country on the face of the earth so favored by Nature:
being entirely situated in the South temperate zone, ft enjoys a delightful
climate, and the soil is so varied and fertile that it produces almost spon-
taneously all the great staples of home consumption and foreign commerce.
Cotton, . wheat, tobacco, yerba-mite, cochineal, wine, coffee, silk, sugar,
wool, and fruits of every kind may be raised of a superior quality, and
in such abundance as to supply less favored nations. The mineral resources
of the country are hardly less important : copper, silver, lead, salt, marble,
lime-stone, granite, and coal are found in various places, and only require
proper management and improved means of transit to become sources of
national wealth. The country is, moreover, magnificently wooded and
watered : the Gran Chaco possesses more timber, suitable for every
purpose, than the whole of Europe, and the number and extent of navigable
rivers are quite equal to the natural greatness and future requirements of
a Republic destined one day to rival the Colossus of North America.
There is, unhappily, a sad contrast between what La Plata might be, and
what it actually is. It does not export one bale of cotton ; its tobacco is
unknown ; rice is a foreign commodity ; ycrba-mdte from Brazil excludes
that from Corrientes ; cochineal abounds in Oran, but is not worth the
freight ; Mendoza wine has no market for the same reason ; coffee is
considered too troublesome ; the spiders of Corrientes weave a fine silk,
which no one thinks of gathering ; sugkr is hardly -cultivated ; fruits arc
unprized, and our export returns show but three great staples in t^lC
Republic — wool, hides, and tallow.
WtE POlrttTEE!! PROVINCES.
me BepHbiHo comprises font
teMi' provinces, 1>e8ide4 tli
^GraaChaco; tbe
Mlo^vingJaUe gltee their liainos, feitent and population
' .. (
, '
d^iiHroMflM. '
loluUtuita.
BoenoeAyres,
7o,oea
500,000
Entre Rios,
50,000
1 15,000 ^
Corrieate^,
60,000
1 10,000 ^
SantaF6, ....
20,000
50,000
Cordoba, ....
60,000
150,000
Santiago del E^tero, .
35,000
115,000
Tucuman,
28,000
98,000
Salta,
50,000
101,000
Jnj«y.
30,000
42,000
Gatamarca,
35,000
105,000
Rioja,
35,000
43,000
Sen Joan,
33,000
75,000
Uendoza, ....
65,000
62,000
SatrLuis,
20,000
58,000
(j^anChaco,
.... 260,000
40,000
. Pampas antt Patagonia, .
. . . 440,000
.... 1,281,000
46,000
Total, ....
1,710,000
The cUef towns are : —
•
Baenos Ayres, ....
River Plate,
200,000
Cordoba, ....
31.25 S.lat.,
25,000 ■
Bosario, ....
Biver Paran<k, ....
20,000
Corrientes, ....
do., ....
13,000
Tucuman, ....
27.10 8. lat..
12,000
Salta,
24.57,
11,000
San Juan, ....
Bio San Juan, ....
12,000
The capital of each province (except Entre Rios) bears the same name,
but the above are the only places worthy of note, and the rest have rather
retrograded than improved, of late years, owing to the incessant <5ivQ wars
and want of immigration.
The form of government is very complicated and unwieldy, but shaped
after the mpdel of the United States. The National Executive is composed
of — ^President, Domingo F. Sarmiento; Vice-President, Adolf o Alsina;
Home Minister, Dr. Dalmacio Velez Sarsfield ; Foreign Affairs, Dr. Mariano
Varela ; Finance, D. Benjamin Gorostiaga ; Instruction, Dr. Nicolas
Avellaneda; War, Colonel Gainza. The seat of government is Buenos
Ayres, where Congress also aissembles : there are two Chamber, the
6
THE ARGEjnmE I^EPUBUC
Seaators and the Pe^^Kuties, elected m ratja hy the various proViiiees. EAch
province has also its own fSovernor and Legialature, dmodt ifidej^dent of
the Supreme National authorities, and following no nniform rule. Buenos
Ayres has two Provincial Cha&b^rs sitting within a stone's throw of the
National Parliament; the other provinces^ have but one. In Cordoba the
Governor has three Ministers^ in other places there are tWo, but several
provinces boast only one ; and eadi Province ha^ a separate Constitution.
The religion is Boman Catholic. There are aboiit 10,000 Protestants
among the foreign community, attached to the English, Scotch, American,
and Germah congregations.
Spanish \s spoken throughout the Bepublic, but Guarani is much in use
at Corrientes, Quichua at Santiago, and French and English are becoming
very general in Buenos Ayres,
The military service of the Republic is performed by troops of the Line
and Nataonal Guards or militia. The first consist of ten regiments of
infantry, nine of cavalry, and two of artillery, numbering 6,650 men, and
they are employed in the defence of the frontiers against the Indians. In
the Province of Buenos Ayres, which has a very extensive frontier of 130
leagues, there are three principal cantonments — ^the town of Azul, south ;
the Veinte y Cinco de Mayo, west ; and Bbjas, north. These little towns
carry on a brisk trade from the consumption of the troops, and the b«a:ter
trade wil^ the friendly Indians.
Before the outbreak of the Paraguayan war the troops of the Line
were distributed as follows : —
CAVALRY.
egfansBt.
SteUon.
. . . BtreiigUi.
l8t, ....
Mendoza, . . . •
460
2nd,
Fraile Muerto,
2,50
3rd,
Eoja?,
250
4th,
San Luis,
250
5th,
25 de Mayo, .. .
200
6th,
Santa F6,
200
7th,
Bio Cuarto,
... , 450
«th.
Cordoba, " .
150
8th,
Melincue,
150
8th, ....
Azulj
•••• •••• •
100
Total,
... 2,450
Digitized by V
Google
Atekt^ iifb viiiiinik't guakd.
Etfl^ii^elit.
tt*JL»TRT. ^
: ' fetation. '
f ...
^tiengtb.
Idt, .' • . .
Bueno^ Ayiies,
. . . •
^5d
2n(l,
do.,
■ 356
3rd,
Azul, ..
350
4th, ....
25 de Mayo,
350
5th,
Tandii,
350
6th, . • . .^
Eioja,
400
7th,
Buenos AyTe$,.
350
8th, ....
Salta,
350
Italian Legion,*
Buenos Ayres,
400
Italian Legion;
Azul,
...
200
Total, •
3,450
ARTILLERY.
Martin Garcia,
. . . .
400
Mendoza, ....
..•* ...»
. . • •
350
Frayle Muerto,
•••. ..••
. . a 1
100
S^n Jiian,
...'.'' Bifles,
...i ....
. . • .
...
Total,
75d
RE6UMEIC.
In the Provinces,
.•••• ....
• . . «
3,100
In Buenos Ayries,
.••• ..<. .
...
3,560
Total,
6,650
Ttt^ National Guard is composed of citizens whd are regularly dratted
from the country districts, and they guard the intervening redoubts oi^
forts ; their term of service is six months, and they are allowed during
that pfetiod the pay of soldiers in cairipai^rii, i.e.^ $230 per month. No
Witional Guards from the capital are eveir drafted for this service, for they ^
are iot altrayspresiimed to be, like thie country people in the province,
fifest-class horsemen, A necessary qualification for Indian warfare. The
]!Yati6dai army is "cbmposed o^ the fdllbwing oflBcers : — 7 Brigadi(^-Generals
(the Wiliest rant obtairiabll in the country), 25 Generals, 217 Com-
liiiindiiig-oJaBicers, anA 605 subordinate bfficeirs— total, 654; ^hich is
rather more than a due proportion for only 6,650 men. Digitized by v^OOglC
8
T^A^Q^IWW^ ^fiBpWf^.
The National Guards on frontic^r aqrvic^ last year numbered 1,870 men,,
and, besides, there were 387 frie^dly Indians in Government service. The
friendship of these Indians is, of,aourae exceedingly, doubtful ; they often
steal cattle from the neighboring estwcias.
By law, every citizen of the Republic is a National Guard, and liable^
under certain cii'culnstances, to be called into active servi^. The
number is as follows: —
Beanos Ayres,
Entre Rios,
Corrientes,
San Luis,
Saatiago,
Jujuy, ....
Mendoza,
San Juan,
TuGuman, •
i^aixa, ....
Cordoba,
Catamarca,
Total,
40,1 p5
19,314
9,349
6,404
19,514
2,851
5,708
6,990
14,450
15,091
8,000
3,786
150,622
The Provinces of Santa F6 and La Eioja are not included, in this
official estimate, they are supposed to give — the first 6,000 and the second
3,000 men, thus making a grand total of 159,622, wh^chis rather under
than over the mark. But ^though presenting a respectable array in
numbly they are not nearly as powerful or effectjive as they should be,
imder proper organization.
The National debt (including that of Buenos Ayres) is about £12^000,000:
sterling, the interest of whicb is regularly attended to, taking a-fifth of
the total revenue. The revenue and expenditure for 1869 will not be
under $1 4,000,000s., which,. for our population, averages $8 per head,
or three times the average of diili, apd^ our Yar-offlce cost3, over
^8,000,000 or. $5 pqr Tiead. Let us,compqi;e,this v\[ith the revenue aijid
population of ,th^ various states erf Europe,^ from the c^ifial Almjanac of tha
IJnited States. : . ^
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
A1V0 BtlPEl^ITtTRE.
' '
«H|aMka. '
BtVMRH. Attt^'i^aMA
C^^BritaWr
..a&,V)o,ooo
$33a,eoo,MO<
gMi96
Fraace, .....
37,iM),MO
413,000,000
11(00
S^ssia
Q7>(KK),000'
231,000,000.
3.40
Aiii^rU, ....
35,000,060
17 1^,000,000
4.88
Pnissw,
18,500,000
06,000,000 '
5.S2
Betewun. • • • •
4,750,000
26,000,000
5.40
Denmark, ....
2,750,000
11,000,000
4.00
Italy,
22,500,000
156,000,000
6.95
HoUapd, ....
3,300,000
33,000,000
9.40
Portagal
4,000,000
15,000,000
3.75
Bw«deQ and Norway,
5,250,000
14,000,000
2.65
Switzerland,
2v500,000
3,000,000
1.20
Spain, ....
16i500,000
97,000,000
5^88
Turkey, ....
t6,500,000
65,0^,000
3.95
General total, 265,750,000 $1 ,652,000,000 $5-20
For the financial year ending 3l8t March, t868, the increase was in
ronnd anmbers $2,470,000 s*, or 26 peir cent, on the previous year.
The total expendituite— including 6,500,000 for the Paraguayan war,
1,500,000 for the Interior riots, and 500,000 for amortisation of the public
debt-^mcQuted to $t»,920,16i. The total hicome lira& slightly x>Ter
$12,090^000. Thjus, it will be seen that were it not {(» the Paraguayan
war, the Goveruinent would be in possession of a splendid surplus.
The National Bonds in circulation amount to 15,364,800, of which amount
5^000,000 are held by the Provincial Bank.
With the trifling exception of a direct tax collected in the city of
Buenos Ayres, amounting to about $200,0008., the whole revenue of the
National Go^remment is raised by indirect taxation, more than nine-
tenths of which are Customs duties, import and export, the proportion
being about seven-and-a-half-tenths in import duties, and two-tenths
export duties ; the small balance is derived from stamps, post-office, and
nu^ceUianeous taxes.
In round numbers the fMr principal provinces of the Ck>nfederation
contribute to the Customs' revenue in the following proportions : — ^Buenos
Ajr^s, 70 ; ^anta Fe, 10 ; GcirriQntes, 5 ; Eutre Bios, 5 ; the remaining
ten being the quota of the other provinces.
The imorease in the .Customs * receipts in* Buenos Ayres has been much
less in-proporticmthan that of the'Provinces of Santa F^ and Corrientes,
o
10 , TfiB AH^CKTIM RWmMC.
a proof thai the direei trade with these pi^ymces is augmenting. Takingf
the revenue in ramA numbers lit 1'4>«00,000, one-half is expie^ded in
militarjr purposes. The Hihistry <ft Finance consumes rather le^s than
one-tenth ; a large i^arl is expended iti Collecting the Custom's revenues.
As there is only one port of im^kntahc^ this expense is frelatiTely not
greater than in other countries/ probably not more than 5 pet cent, of
the revenue collected. Justice, Public Worship, and Education require
only one*twelfth, as each separate province has its own administration
in these respects. Foreign Afftdrs' and Legations consume only an
eightietti part of the revenue. The ftRnistry of the Interior consumes
an eighth of the whole. Of this amount the National Congress and
Public Credit figure for more thatt a third. Finally the interest on the
National Debt takies one-fifth of the retenue.
The increase of trade in late yeirs has been unprecedented, as may be
seen from the retUrns of National revenue.
1863, ..... ..•. .... $6,478,682
1864, . .... ...; .... 7,005,328
1865, .... .... .... 8^296,071
1.866, .... ••.. ••»• . 9,568^554
The value of imports and exports was, in 1862, $45,890^282 ; and in
1866, $68,359,551. •
The iteport and export trdde returns with Great Britain in 1866 shewed
an increase of '26 per Cent, over the prevloiis year; those With iVance
11 per cent.; with Brazil 45 per cent. ; with Spalii 11 per cent. The
only falling off was in imports from the United States and Holland : the
trade in American flour has entirely ceased, owing to the cultivaitidn of
wheat in the last few years.
Value of Imports, •••. 1865 ...• 27,103^017
Do., ,... 1866 ..*. 32,269,082
Of imports, we get one-third from England, one-fourth from Franice,
one-*eighth from Brazil, and: the rest from Spain, United States^
Montevideo, and Italy. , :
The value of the imports in 1866 from England alone amountied
to $i0,240^210s., being an excess of 2,234,M0 ova: the imports of the
previous year, and more than double those of 1 862.
The export returns for 1866 shew an incriskse of niearly 5 per cent,
on the previous year, viz. : —
Value of exports, .... 1^5 . •. . * 21,996,777
Do., .... 1886 .... 2*^*29j7{t^oQle
Of experts^BaliTKimtakeg <me-tliir^ France o^e^oortli; Uaiced t^tes
one-fifth, England one-eighth, and Spain, Italy, and Braiii ttie tbat.
The gross retarna of 1866 compared with 186i, shew an increase of 50
per cent, in our commerce, but that with England was nearly doubled
in the interval.
The greatest increase in our exports is in wool —
1862
fe8,i 53,575
1863
73,592,425
1864
. 87,976,776
1865 '
115,852,430
. 1866:
116,4*4,970
This includes a stnall proportion (5 per cent.) of washed wool.
The shipping returns shfew thdt 1,036 sailing vessels, representing
267,213 toafe, arrived here from foreign ports during 1866^ being an
increase of 374 veaseh over the returns for 1862. The number of steam-
boat arrivals for 1866 is put down at 487 ; but this does not include th*
smaller ones of passenger tinffic.
Immigration from Europe, up to 1862, averaged 5,000; it now exceeds *
25,000 per annum— mostly Italians, French, English, and Spamards ; of
these, two-thirds are able-bodied men of the laboring classes, with a
sprhikling of women and children, and 10 per cent, educated persons.*
There are six railways in the Republic, with 350 mile^ open to traffic,
fOO in construction, and seTen other lines projected.
The business of the Buebos> Ayres Post-office has increased cnormottsly
of late years : the nunlber of letters and papers passing tiirough tiie office
in 1859 was 400,000, in 1862 it rose to 800^000^iand in 1865 it amounted
to 2,000y000 ! This last was an increase of 33 per cent, on the
previous year.
The population of the city and province of Buenos Ayres in 1801
,was set dbwn at 72,000, in ,1855 at 271,000 and at present it must be
nearly' double the last figure. \ Within the last three years no fewer
than ^,^50 houses have been built or re-built in the city : in ; the
same period we have tp note a simili^ activity in every branch of
indnstiT and progress, ., p,,,edbyGoOgIe
12
THE JkMSUaSKR mVOBtlG.
The lanbidg-Madc of the Bepublk ik' set down, Aoeordia^ to litAtl Aictf of
1866, asfoUowb*-- ' • , -
' PHOVDrCES.
HOBNED
cattle!
„OB^S ASSES*
^^^^^- (MULES.
SHEEt. ■'
GOAtS.
SWtNE.
B. Ayres ....
6,000,000
1,800,000 30,000
60,000,000
5,000
i 15,000
Entre Rios . .
2.500.000
600*000 7,500
6,000,000
....
....
Corrientes . .
2,000.000
375,000 60,000
1,000,000
10,000
4,500
Catamarca . .
185,000
40,000 40,000
80,000
121,000
2,500
Mendoza ....
210,000
71.000, 7,500
230^000
70,000
8,500
Salta .*
255,000
50,000 50,000
150,000
95,000
2,500
San Luis
300,000
96,000 14,000
160,000
285,000
■ . . . '.
Tucuman ....
275,000
85,000 22,000
95,(K)0
25,000
....
Cordoba, San
....
. . . •
. a . •
....
....
Juan, Jujuy,
• . . .
.... ...
* . . • '
....
. . . •
Bioja, Sante^
....
....
«...
...»
F6, Santiago,
....
• . #> •
....
....
. . • •
no returns.
....
. * . *
....
. • ..
It may give ^n idea of t)ie industrial condition of the Republic, to Submit
a list of th^ articles forwarded to tbe Paris Exhibition, and the names of
those who gaiaed prizes.
The Central Committee of Buenos Ayres fiwrwarded serpnty-foor boxes,
containing numerous interesting specimens.
Cordoba sent a collection of minerals and samples of marble.
Jujuy sent a variety of valuable woods, manufactured articles, cereals,
brandy, indigo, &c.
Tucuman exhibited forty kinds of timber, and various works of handicraft
such as tanned hides^ plaited reins, an i(apero)» or native saddle tastefully
ornamented, a lady's handkerchief, of lace equal to the finest Valenciennes,
and a lot of medicinal roots.
Mendoza came next after Buenos Ayres in the variety of its collection,
comprising silver ore, marble, beautiful crystals, honey, wax, preserved
fruits, Cuyano wines and Uqueurs grown by Messrs. Ponget, Civit, and
others, guanaco and silk ponchos, swan's down, ostrich feathers. Alpaca
and Vicuila skins, and a pillar of green transparent marble, streaked with red.
Buenos Ayres, of course, occupied the foremost rank —
Messrs. John Hannah^ Wilfrid Latham, Martinez de Hoz, Richard Newton,
and Pacheco, contributed samples of superior wools. Preserved and
salted beef figured largely, especially that of Mr. OKderi, who obtained a
gold medal at tfee London Exhibition of i862. Mr. Bletcher sent hides
tanned and varnished, morocco leather, &c., of beautiful finish, and si\perior
quality. Mr. Klappenback's collection of silver and other ores from San
o
PRODUCTS BXHniTED AT rARIS. 13
Juan was admirable. M[ Holterhof sent candles from the Barracas factory.
Mr. Younger sent some sheepskins from his steam (davadero. » H. Bouqueand
exhibited calf s foot oil, and other articles, from his establishment.
Messrs. Hnergo and Durand had a fine sample of native silk. The Bural
Association contributed cereals grown at Chivilcoy and Mercedes.
The files of the Tribuna and Standard represented the press of Buenos Ayres.
The prizes were as follows : —
•GOLD MEDAt.
Argentine Government, for gold, silver, and copper ores.
SILVBfl MEPA]^. , ,
Mr. Lafone, copper samples.
Bletsch^r a^d Co., hide^ talined with quebracho.
John Hannah, wo^l.
Betlie and Hublec, e.\tractiim cartas. '
MUOmX MEDALS.
Boquet Brothers, silver ore?.
Klappeaback, silver ores.
The Government, samples of timber.
StegmaQ Brothers, wool.
Bichard Newton, wool.
Wilfrid |jatham^ wool.
M. Dupprtal, wool.
Martinez de Hoz^ wool.
Macedonio Gras, Alpaca wool.
M. Bouqueaud, calf s foot oil.
The Secretary of Cc^nmittee, soap.
Tutcuman Provincial Company, medicinal berbfi.
Thomas Oliden, dried and sidted beef.
The Goverrnment^ for «pojpul£ff customs» (stuffed gaucbos, &c.)
*■ HONORABLE ME?iTlON.
Tucnman Provincial Company, embroidery.
Major Bickard, silver ores.
Carranza,. mineral speoimeas.
Ileneral Pacheco, wool and tobacco.
H. Sonnet, wool.
Francis Younger, wool.
William Muller, driied beef.
^ Oemariia and Ariza, dried beef.
Ponget, of Mendoza, white wines. Digitized by GoOgle
Michel Ponget, white wines.
1$ rouwH peFVLimost v
The Basques .4fft bigblyiriliiedisiiiliiigimils: thayoowi fa&Hk dltber
side of the Pjnninees, and naay be classified into French Boqvea moA
Spanish Basques, both haying almost the same language and mtiqpitf
character. Tl^ey are hardy^ honest, and fabonons, and are'lbund ia
evepyi^Oi^Upalion of Ae middle or huslbler classes. After theltalitaS,
th^ form the largest foreign population. As brick^makers, milkmei^t
shejdierds, saladero peons, &c., they constitnte a most osefhl class, and
their fgood cpnduot Jis quite prorerbial. Many of them haye risen in th^
social soafe) imd some large fortunes and yaluable enterprises are held
by Basques.
The Spaniards are with difficulty distinguished from the natives. They
come mostly from Andalusia, Catalonia, and Galicia. The Catalans are
yrine merchants and first-rate busine^d men. The Andalusiand are
dgar sellers and shop-keepers. The Galicians are street porters, night
watchmen, newspaper messengers, and domestic servants : they ore
sober and honest, but not very enterprising.
^
The Italians are the most numerous class of all, and may be found in
every occupation of city life, and also scattered through every part of
the vast territory. Finding here a similarity of langui^e and climate
to their own, the Italians make the River Plate their favored place of
colonization. As masons and buijders they are specially useful, and the
various splendid piles of building .raised witiiin the last ten years have
given them an active business, in the humbler calling of market^
gardeners they also supply the city with vegetables and earn a profitable
livelihood.
The monopoly of the river navigation and coasting crafts is in the
hands of Genoese ; the crew are generally equal sharers in the venture,
and appoint a ((patron» or captain to command, and trade on their own
account, purchasing cheese, birds, skins, fruit, &c. in the upper markets,
to bring to Buenos Ayres or Montevideo. They construct their own ships
in the suburb of the Boca, where, they have formed a rapidly rising
town of about 5,000 inhabitants.
In the Upper Provinces the iiumber of foreign settlers is very small ; still
there are a few scattered here and there, viz. : —
In Salta, chiefly Bolivians.; who come there for the purposes of triniev
and on aescount of the political convulsions of their. ^^^^^^ -repuWic^g
similitude of origin, climate, soil^ and productions, as well as the
IMMIGRATION RETURNS.
17
proximity to their own frontiers, accounts for their preference of this
province. The Colony of Esquina Grande, situated at the head waters of
the Vermejo, is almost exclusively composed of natives of Bolivia.
In Mendoza and San Juan, there are not many Europeans, but a
considerable number of Chilians, who are engaged principally in the
mines.
In Cordoba there are about a thousand foreigners, chiefly French,
Germans, Italians, and Spaniards, and a few English ; their occupation is
in the mines, flour mills, lime kilns, and as mechanics and go^t-breeders.
In Entre Rios and Corrientes there is a large number of foreigners.
Many of them are wealthy, and their occupations are so varied, that they
are to be found in every branch of industry and trade. In Entre
Bios ther^ is a number of English estancieros. The Province of Santa
F6 has three thriving colonies, that of Entre Bios two, and that of Buenos
Ayres one.
The Committee of Immigration have agents in various parts of
Europe, viz. : —
5Ir. Beck Bernard, Berne ; for Switzerland and Germany.
Mr. John Lelong, Paris ; for France,
lilr. Lloyd, of Messrs. Wright, Kelso, & Co., Liverpool.
Mr. Hadfield, and Messrs. T. M. Mackay & Son, London.
Mri Perkins, Montreal, Canada.
The Committee have a Home for Emigrants at No. 8 Calle Corrientes,
where they get food and lodging gratis till they find employment.
Free immigration is the rule : neither the Government nor the Com-
mittee assist in paying passages from Europe.
The current of emigration from Europe is rapidly increasing, as we see
by the returns, as follows : —
1858,
4,658
1863,
. . . .
10,400
1859,
4,715
1864,
. . . .
11,680
1860,
5,656
1865,
....
11,770
1861,
6,300
1866,
....
13,900
1862,
6,716
•1867,
....
23,500
The relative proportion of the various nationalities in 1867 was —
Italians, 38 percent.; French, 13; Spaniards, 9; English, 6 ; Swiss, 4;
Germans, 3 ; other nationalities, 27 per cent. Digitized byOoOQlC
18
FOREIGN POPDI.ATIOW.
The number of vessels and passengers from foreign ports in 1867 i»
given as follows : —
Pastengen.
8,314
2,409
1,800
627
1,156
500
563
174
45
1,302
815
74
25
150
1,688
227
31
3,600
Genoa,
61
Bordeaux,
55
Bayonne,
13
Havre,
25
Marseilles,
30
Vigo,
3
Corunna,
5
Barcelona,
33
Tarragona,
6
Cadiz,
24
Liverpool,
6i
Glasgow,
18
London, '
6
Southampton,
12
Antwerp,
17
Hamburg,
. 68
Bremen,
2
Transhipped
at Montevideo
Total
441
23,500
In the report of the Immigration Committee the following scale of
wages is given, and the figures are not exaggerated : —
Farm servants.
Monthly, w
ith Board,
£3&s.
Gardeners, ....
do.,
do..
£\ to £5
House Servants,
do..
do..
£2 105. to £3
Cooks, ....
do..
do..
£3 to £i
Needle-women,
do.,
do..
£3
Milliners,
do..
do.,
£3 to £i
Laundresses, ....
do.,
do.,
£3
Brick-layers, ....
Daily, without Board,
6s. 6d.
Carpenters, ....
do.,
do.,
Is. %d.
Blacksmiths,....
do.,
do.,
75. 6d.
Tailors, ....
do..
do.,
&. to 105.
Shoemakers, ....
do.,
do.,
75. 6d.
Railway navvies,
do..
do.,
85.
Saladeto peons,
do.,
do.,
125.> £\ iK
Digitized by VJ<
Google
PROSPERITY OF IMMIGRANTS.
19
The cost of a mechanic's board and lodging does not exceed three
shillings a day. Workmen of all kinds find immediate employment, and
the new railways will require thousands of nawies. Any number of
farm-laborers, married or unmarried, will find plenty of work on the
estancias of Buenos Ayres. Domestic servants are much wanted in toWn,
and women are preferred.
Nothing can better shew the prosperity of immigrants than the official
return of depositors in the State Bank of Buenos Ayres. Of 100 depositors
the various nationalities were thus represented : —
Italians, .... 30
French, ....
9
Argentines, .... 18
English and Irish,
4
Spaniards, .... 13
Germans, ....
4
Basques, ..... 13
Various, ....
9
The proportion of moneys so lodged was distributed as follows — out
of every 100,000,000 paper dollars deposited, the owners were
: —
Argentines, 27 ,000,000
Basques, ....
9,000,000
Italians, 20,000,000
French, ....
8,000,000
English and Irish, 1 4,000,000
Germans, ....
6,000,000
Spaniards, 1 0,000,000
Various, ...
6,000,000
It must be borne in mind that besieges the depositor's in bank there are
thousands of industrious Europeans who have invested their savings in land
and farming stock. Many of the Irish settlers, as in North America.
send home sums of money to their relatives, to support them or pay their
passage hither. The Irish housemaids in town have also accounts in the
Savings-banks.
The Italians, as a rule, practise the greatest economy, to accumulate a
fortune of X500 or £1,000 ; and, this attained, they return to their native
land. The French, on the contrary, as soon as they have made some
money, start a mill or some such enterprise, and settle for good in the
country.
Diaitized bv
Google
20 ^ AGEIGULTURAL GOLORIES.
CHAP. lY.
AGRICULTURAL COLONIES.
Resides the numberless foreign settlers established as sheepfarmers,
or in other occupations, there are six agricultural colonies founded
by capitalists or Provincial Governments, on given concessions of land.
In Santa F^ there are three colonies, in Entre Rios two, and in Ruenos
Ay res one, viz. :*—
SAWTA Ft.
Esperanza, .... 1627 colonists, .... Eight Leagues from Santa F6.
San Jeronimo, 800 do., .... Two Leagues from Esperanza.
San Carlos, .... 735 do., .... Two Leagues from S. Jeronimo.
Santa F6 is the province which has done most for colonisation, land its
colonies are in a thriving way. The soil is fertile, watered by numerous
rivers and «arroyos,)) which abound in fish. The Governor of Santa F6
gives a free passage by steamer from Ruenos Ayres to all mechanics or
settlers bound for Rosario or Santa F6 city, or other part of the province.
The port for the colonies is Santa Fe, which has weekly communication witJi
Ruenos Ayres, Montevideo, Corrientes, and the smaller ports.
The Esperanza Colony^ founded by D. Aaron Castellanos in 1856: the
first settlers were Germans, who brought with them a clergyman, a
director, and a schoolmaster. In 1858 the Argentine Government took
the colony under its protection, indemnifying Sr. Castellanos with £24,000
sterling. The first years were unfortunate, owing to the locusts; but the
colony is now flourishing. It is composed of 355 families, counting 1,627
colonists, viz. : —
Swiss,
....
852
Relgians,
....
69
Germans,
....
456
Italians,
. . • .
23
French,
....
207
Various,
....
^20
In 1865 the colony had 85 births, 28 deaths, and 28 mlifWa^VjOOglS
THE SANTA Pfi COLONIES. 21
There are in the colony a Catholic chapel, another for Protestants, two
schools, and 474 dwelling-houses, each house having a'W^Il of excellent >
water. The number of finrm-lots occupied is*^ 210, each containing
85 acres finish. There is a vast extent of ground in this colony as yet ■
unallotted.
The yield for 1 865 was as follows :-^
Wheat, .... 5,895 fan. (350U)
Indian corn, 12,370 do.
Barley, * 240 do.
Potatoes, .... 1,200 do.
This produced, after deducting for home use, a market value of
£30,000. The number of fruit-trees, mostly peaches, is pnt down at
100,000, and the vines have given such good results that liew plantations
are being made.
The stock, in 1865, comprised : —
Cows and oxen, .... 8,800
Horses and mules, 1 ,700
Sheep, 708
Vegetables, dried, 754 fan.
Butter, 653 cwt.
Cheese, .... 600 do.
Pigs, 710
Poultry, 2,500
Beehives, 20
The colonists exported during the year, 55 brls. of flour, 545 cow-
hides, and 625!i of hair. The occupations we find thus distributed —
19 groceries and draperies, 9 carpenter-shops, 6 brick-layers, 5 black-
smitlis, 4 midwives, 4 bootmakers, 4 mills, 3 tailors, 2 inns, 3 brick-
kilns, 1 baker, 1 doctor, 1 brewer, 2 steam mills, 2 windmills, 1 sawing,
6 reaping, 2 threshing, and 10 winnowing machines, 220 dairies.
The San Jeronimo Colony is two leagues from that of Esperanza,
comprising 157 families, which count 753 colonists, settled on 181
farm-lots of 85 acres each. In the concession there is stQl a large
tract of ground ready for any who may join the colony. The returns
for 1865 were : —
Swiss, .... 644 colonists.
Germans. 67 do.
French^ .... 13 do.
Italians, .... 10 colonists.
North Americans, 3 do.
Natives, .... 3 do.
Belgians, .... 13 do.
Births 19, deaths 10, marriages 2.
The colony boasts a church, school, and 165 dwelling houses. There
are 5 shops, 3 mills, 3 blacksmiths, 4 carpenters, 1 brewer, 1 butcher,
3 shoe-makers, 1 mason, 1 gunsmith — ^but most of these artisans devote
their chief attention to agriculture. The number of fruit trees is p^t
down at 30,000. Digitized by Google
22
AGRICULTURAL G0L02IXES.
The crops for 1865 gave : —
Wheat,
Indian corn,
Oats,
Potatoes, . . .
Vegetables,
The stock comprised :
Cows or oxen, . . . .
Horses,
Sheep,
2,000 fanegas«
3*000 do.
10
500
48
do.
do.
do.
3,000
570
14
Butter,
Cheese,
Poultry,
Eggs,
200
200
1,000
845,000
cwt.
do.
Pigs,
Hens and ducks.
331
2,150
The San Carlos Colony is situate 8 leagues S.W. of Santa Fe, 6 south of
Esperanza, and 5^ N.W. of Coronda ; the last named is a port on a branch
of the Parana. Only a small part of the concession (which comprises 330
lots) is yet taken up by settlers, but there are 130 farm-lots, of 85 acres,
under cultivation. Every alternate lot belongs to the concessionaires,
but they allow the use of same to the colonists for grazing purposes.
There are 130 families, with 735 colonists :—
Swiss, .... 393 Germans, 19
Italians, .... 204 Natives, .... 24
French, .... 95
Of these there were 266 men, 203 women, and 266 children. Births
35, deaths 4, marriages 8. The colony boasts a church, 3 schools, and
210 houses. There are 6 shops, 2 mills^ 1 carpenter and 1 blacksmith.
The industry of butter and cheese is rapidly increasing, the Swiss- and
French families occupying themselves therein.
The stock comprised —
Horses, 786
Swine, ..'. 270
Fruit trees, 83,753
The Santa Fe Government is always willing to extend the concession
for any new settlers that may offer, and the alternate lots belonging to the .
concessionaires are sold at reasonable prices, the preference being given
to the colonists. The colony has easy communication in all seasons with
San Jeronimo, Esperanza, and the port of Coronda. Steam traffic is
about to be established between Santa F6 and Coronda; but if the
steamers would call at Maciel this would be only four and a half leagues
from the colony.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
Cows and oxen,
.... 3,908
Sheep,
26
Hens, ....
3,000
Wheat, ....
60,000 cwt
Indian corn,
20,000 do.
Oats, ....
5^000 do.
Vegetables,
7,000 do.
PERKINS' REPORT ON THE COLONIES. 23
The gross returns fit produce sent into Santa F6, in 1865, by the
three colonies, wjere —
Butter and cheese, 3,000 cwt.
Eggs, .... 200,000 doz.
Fowl, .... libt stated.
The butter was valued at £8,000 sterling, the eggs at £12,000, and the
<5heese at an equally high figure. Meantime, the produce of the colonies
increases every year in a wonderful manner, and the value of their lancb
has been enhanced fully 25 percent, by the opening of the Rosario and
Cordoba Railway.
Mr. Perkins, formerly editor of the Ferro-Carril of Rosario, published a
valuable and interesting work in Spanish and English on this subject. At
the invitation of Governor Gullen he started from Rosario, in November,
1863, to make a tour of the colonies, and his narrative bears the marks
of truth. At Lake Guadalupe, close to Santa F6, he visited the fish oil
factory, where he estimates 5,&00 barrels of oil may be produced annually,
without seriously reducing the fish, which are sold at one real (6d.) per
■arroba (25S). Here also is a small colony of wealthy Germans, who
preferred purchasing this site to taking the free Government lands.
In company with M. Henri, Mr. Perkins set out for the Esperanza
Colony, distant twenty miles from the capital of the province. This was-
the first of all the colonies, and established by D. Aaron Gastellanos.
The settlers were at first rather unfortunate, being mostly ignorant and
indigent people ; but patience and experience have aided them, and the
colony is now flfourishing. There are — says Sir. Perkins — 345 families,
making up a population of 756 Franco-Swiss and 805 Germans, of whom
two-thirds are Roman Catl?olics, and one-third Protestants. The colony
is a parallellogram of thirty-two square miles, divided into concessions of
eighty acres each : the Avhole is bisected by a common for grazing, 400
yards broad and six miles long, the Germans being on one side, and the
Franco-S\viss on the other. There are over 9,000 acres under crops,
the amount sown being estimated as follows :— wheat, 3,150 bushels;
barley, 250 ; Indian com, 35,000 ; beans and peas, a little ; potatoes,
none. The stock comprises — 1,569 horses, 396 oxen, 2,305 cows, 3,700
calves, 500 sheep, and 600 pigs. The plaza is well built, containing a
Catholic chapel, and, a Protestant one in construction, besides other edifices
^nd three schools ; but the latter are badly attende^, the children being
made to work. <^
24 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES.
Two American gentlemen named Evans and Shafter, lately settled
ia the colony , and brought reaping and threshing machines, and other
American improvements, into general use : one of these machines can grain
200 quintals per day. The woods being fifteen miles, off, few of the
concessions are fenced in, and some are so with wire. There are one
Tineyard and several gardens. The crops for this, year — (1863) — are
Talued at $1 15,000 s. Cheese, butter, eggs, fowls, and vegetables are
raised ; but the supply would be much greater if cheap transport could be
procured. One family has ^n income of $400 s. from butter alone^
which they sell s^ 6d. to 9d. per ft, the same being worth 2s. in Rosario
and 35. in Buenos Ayres. The annual produce in eggs is 160,000 4o£en.
There are two wind-mills, and several water-mills. The people live
simply but substantially, consuming little animal food. Every family
has a two-horse four-wheeled waggon, and some have two or more.
There is a trifling disagreement in the colony about mixed marriages.
It is remarked that the Franco-Swiss have thrived better than the
Germans.
The San Jeronimo Colony was founded so late as 1862, by a number of
Swiss from the Canton of Valais, each of whom brought some money ; from
£S0 to £800 sterling. They paid all their own expenses, and only
received from Government the usual land grant of eighty acres per family.
The colony covers 9,000 acres, occupied by eighty-iive families, counting
462 souls : of these, one half are new arrivals, and have as yet no wheat
crops. Inhere are sown 284 bushels of wheat, and a good deal of barley.
The people are sober and industrious, good Catholics, moral and respectful,
and superior to those of Esperanza. They have already a fine church,
built by subscription of 5,000 bricks each, and several good brick houses.
Each family has about twenty cows and horses, but no sheep. They
make excellent butter and cheese, the latter fetching $12 per cwt. The
colonists pay the expenses of an agent, who goes backwards and forwards
to Switzerland, bringing out new families for the colpny. A man
formerly working at the Esperanza as farm-servant, has settled here,
and is now worth £1,000. San Jeronimo is half way between Esperanza
and San Carlos, and Mr. Perkins gives it the preference of all.
The San Carlos Colony was founded in May 1859, by the commercial
house of Messrs. Beck and Herzhog of Basle, assisted by a company, which
purchased some of the shares and advanced the capital. The emigrants^
were of a lower order, like those of Esperanza, and all their expenses,
maintenance, implements, stock, seeds, ifec, were most liberally supplied
and paid for by the company. Each family got a free passage,^© acres
Digitized by VjOOQIC
THE SAN CARLOS COLONY. 25
of land, horses, cows, &c., on condition of paying to the company every
year (for five years) one-third of their crops, cultivating sixteen acres the
first year, and so on. The half of each lot, i.(?., 40 acres, is set apart for
grazing, and after the fiftli year this remains the property of the company,
the other half passing in fee to the settler. The colony covers thirty-
seven square miles, or 26,000 acres, in 165 double lots, and is situate
midway from Goronda. to Santa F6, and three leagues south of San
Jeronimo. The population is 556 souls, in 100 families, of whom one-half
are Protestants. . All bear an excellent character, except two or three
drunkards. In the year 1862 there Avere nine deaths and thirty-two
births. The colony is most prosperous and healthful. A Swiss named
Goetchi landed in 1859, owing the company $500, and he has now paid
all, and is worth £1,000 sterling : others show similar good fortune, the
sheer fruit of industry. The stock amounts to — 2,531 horned cattle, 649
horses, 265 pigs. The company, on its own account, took up 800 sheep
from Buenos AjTes in 1860, lost 200 after arrival, and still counted 1,600
in 1861 The Avheat crop in 1865 yielded 37,000 bushels;. the maize,
barley, &c., is estimated at 8,000 quintals. There are public offices,
church, model farm, gardens, and peach plantations.
Mr. Perkins advises the adoption of traction engines for transport,
and estimates the aggregate annual produce of the colonies as follows : —
Wheat, 56,000 cAvt. ; maize, 15,000; barley, 5,000; vegetables, 2,000 ;
butter, 800 cwt. ; eggs, 1,000 cwt. ; cheese, 2,000 ; various, 5,000— total,
86,800 cwt.
Respecting the San Carlos colony, Ave have some interesting particulars
in the report of M. Jacques Stelzer, Justice of the Peace : —
«Among the most comfortable families I may mention that of Sigel,
with its handsome house on the right of the high.road. This family is of
German origin, and arrived in 1859: it counts 7 persons, the youngest
12 years of age. Mr. Sigel is a laborious and intelligent man, assisted by
his children, who are already able to guide the plough : from the beginning
he has had good crops, especially that of 1866, when grain fetched 12 and
even 16 dollars per «fanega.» In that year he was enabled to pay off all
he owed to the Company, and has thus been free of the 18 per cent,
which less fortunate colonists still have to pay. Moreover he wrought
at his trade of wheelwright, whicM gives him a good revenue. The
Sigel family now owns 94 horned cattle, 21 horses, and 50 hens, besides
laying down this year 1 4 «almudes» of wheat, 50 acres of maize, and
planting 5,000 fruit-trees. The Sigel concession is the best in the colony.
«The Tavema family, comprising Michael Taverna. his (
26 AGBICULTUBAL COLONIES.
4 little children, the eldest 12 ^d the youngest 14 months old, and a
partner named John Bonetti. This family owes its prosperity to the experi-
ence of Taverna, the order and frugality of his wife, and the constant and
careful labor of Bonetti: they arrived in 1859, and now possess a fine
brick house, 40 head of horned cattle, 12 horses, 14 pigs, and 50 hens,
besides a farm of 60 «almudes)) of wheat, 45 acres of maize and vegetables,
and 2,000 fruit-trees.
((The Haeramerly family, of Swiss origin, arrived in 1859; at first
comprised Albert Haemmerly, his w ife, three sons, and two daughters,
all of an age to work : the wife died in 1862, and all the children have
got married and purchased concessions for themselves, except the
youngest son, who has remained with his father. Haemmerly has a
neat house, 60 head of horned cattla, 20 horses, 4 pigs, 40 hens>
besides cultivating 35 <(almudes» of wheat, 25 acres of maize, and 3,000
fruit-trees.
((The Keuteman family, Swiss-Geri|^ns, is composed of 9 members,
including 7 children from 2 to 18 years of age: the concession is
surrounded with poplars, paradise, and some 4,000 fruit-trees. This
family owns 84 head of horned cattle, 10 horses, 1 pig, and 100 poultry,
besides a farm of 65 <(almudes» of wheat and 45 acres of maize and
vegetables.
((The Heale family, of Italian origin, coimts 11 members, with a fine
house and out-oflBces, 60 horned cattle, 12 horses, 13 pigs, 60 poultry, and
a farm of 40 ((almudes)) of wheat and 80 acres of maize, but only a few
fruit-trees.
((The Goetschy family, of Swiss origin, owns 83 horned cattle, 6 horses, 20
hens, and a farm of 48 (calmudes)) of wheat, with 2,000 fruit-trees, and
a fence of poplars and paradise trees.
((These are the families specially deserving honorable mention in my
official report, without prejudice to the many other honest and hard-
working people in the Colony. I have mentioned those most remarkable
for their fine appearance, good houses, and superior cultivation, hoping
you will permit me at another time to specify other families in prosperous
condition, in all which details you may rely on my adhering strictly
to the facts.))
The success of these colonies soon stimulated the Santa F6 Government
to offer concessions in various parts of the Province for similar settlements,
and Governor Oroilo, during his term of office, labored strenuously to
foment immigration. Unfortunately, the Paraguayan war checked the
formation of new colonies, and the projects have either lapsed, or still
- ^ o
EMIGHATION PEOJECTS. 27
remain *in statu quo.* Sor. Oroflo, while Deputy to Congress, in July,
1864, introduced a bill as follows : —
1st. To emit £400,000 in 6 per cent. Bonds, negociablc at 75 per cent.
2nd. To bring out 1 ,000 families of the farming class from Europe, to
supply them with provisions, animals, and farming implements, during one
year ; to build houses and a school for each colony.
3rd. Each immigrant family to comprise five individuals, and receive
two oxen, one horse, three fanegas of wheat, two of potatoes, one of
maize, two ploughs, and provisions for twelve months. Each family
to get a grant of twenty-four cuadras (100 acr^s^ of land for ever,
and this as well as all produce to be free of taxes for twenty years.
4th. After four years the colonists to begin to re-imburse these
expenses, paying to Government one-fifth of the amount until satisfied.
The project was thrown out by Congress, but about the same time the
Santa Fe Legislature, made a grant of 200 square leagues to a German Com-
pany, which assumed the name of «The Argentine Land and Emigration
Co., Limited,)) and published the following prospectus : —
«The capital of the present company is £500,000, and the company is to
secure the land grant made by Government, by sending out ten thousand
families to form agricultural colonies within the period of ten years.
«The lands granted by Government to the concessionaires are to be
situated on the Parana, and Salado, their exact locality to be fixed by
the company's surveyor.
((The Government agrees to convey, on the arrival of every 200 families,
six square leagues.
((The colonists are to be Germans ai^d Irishmen.
«The Government makes a free grant of 200 square leagues of land, of
which 106^ leagues are to be distributed among the immigrants, and the
balance, 193f leagues, becomes the free property of the company. »
Kothing has since been heard of the company, but it is possible that
on the conclusion of the war the project may be revived.
In September 18G6, a concession was given to Sor. Calvari for the intro-
duction of a number of Italians to colonize the Gran Chaoo. Sundry
German and French enterprises of the same kind also sprung up, of which
we shall speak more fully in treating of the Gran Chaco. There is at
present a project to establish a colony at the Guardia Esquina, situate
on the Rio Tercero : this river may be made navigable, and the colony
will be within easy reach of the Rosario and Cordoba railway.
Another newly-projected colony, in the neighborhood of the town of
San Jos6, has received the name of ((San Jos^de la Esquina,» where eighty
2fi AGEICULTURAL COLQJSIES.
acres of land tfUJ be given to any person, on the sole condition of its
. being cultivated, and of their bringing a couple of oxen, a pair of horses,
and the necessary agricultural implements. An extra inducement to
settlers is held out by a promise of four pounds of meat daily, to be
given gratuitously to each feraily during the first year. The town of
San Jose, near the banks of the Parand, has about 400 inhabitants. The
colonists must fence in their lots, make a well, and plant fifty trees : for
five years they will be exempt from all taxes. The distribution of the lands
will be made by the following committee rr—Messrs. Aaron Castellanos,
Pedro Ramayo, Goionel Rodriguez, Joaquin Lejarza, Santiago Recailo,
NiiBolas Sotomayor, and Francisco Oliva.
eutre-rios.
General Urquiza signalized his administration no less by his opening the
rivers to the flags of all nations, than by his efforts for immigration. The
province of Entre-Rios has two colonies, that of San Jose being Jthe largest
in the River Plate.
San Jos^ Colony stands 7 leagues north of the town of Concepcion, on
the banks of the Uruguay: it has a convenient port, of safe anchorage?
and the town which is springing up there is to be called after the discoverer
of the New World. The colony counts 200 Swiss, 125 French, 54 Italian,
and 15 German families, comprising 2280 persons. The returns for 1863,
were — 113 births, 33 deaths, 11 marriages. The professions of the
colonists, were — 22 shop-keepers, 16 masons, 17 carpenters, 7 shoemakers,
6 tailors, 6 blacksmiths, 4 tinsmiths, 5 mechanics, 1 gunsmith, 1 boiler-
maker, 1 sawyer, 2 mills, 1 steam-mill, 1 oil-press. The colony boasts a
church, a school, and 257 brick houses, valued at £26,000 sterling : there
is also a church in construction on the site of the intended town. The
concessions are 16 cuadras (70 acres) each. Uncultivated lots are sold at
§10 (305.) the cuadra, the purchaser being charged IS per cent,
interest per annum till the amount be discharged. There are 3,200
cuadras of land occupied, and 1 ,600 under cultivation ; fruit-trees 1 1 2,000 .
The average annual yield is —
Wheat and oats, 30, 1 50 fanegas.
Indian corn, 15,000 do.
Potatoes, .... 120 tons.
Mani, ..... 180 do.
Tobacco, .... 5 tons.
Sweet potatoes, 300 do.
Butter, .... 120 do.
Eggs, .... 1 70,000 doz.
Besides cheese^ melons, peas, beans, &c., in abundance.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
COLONIES OP ElfTTRERIOS. 29
The crops of 1865 were so prolific that wheat gave from 35 to 40 fold,
barriey 30 to 50, and Indian corn three to four hundred fold. The returns
of stock were —
Cows and oxen, .... 6,S60 I Hens^ 21 ,500
Horses, 1,141 Beehives, .... 170
Swine, 629
A «cuad'ra» of mani iViil give a yield of 3^ tons, and the oil extracted
from this nut is of excellent quality : hence this is a lucrative article.
Bicino is a plant that grows in abundance almost without cultivation ; it is
now extensively planted, both for the raising of silk-worms and for the
oil it contains ; a cuadra will give two to three tons. The cultivation of
cotton was tried, but without success ; the great danger is that of drought,
and if the irrigation be improved this industry will be again tried : as
much as 25*5 of cotton have been got from a single plant well-watered.
The tobacco crop is highly satisfactory, while requiring much care : a
«cuadra)) gives, sometimes, a ton of very good tobacco. The milk, butter,
and cheese of the colony are first-rate, and some of the colonists make
£40 to £60 sterling a year, out of these items, in supplying the towns of
Concepcion, Paysandii, &c. The colonists also find a ready market for
their eggs, and the supply of honey promises, to be soon very considerable.
The Colony of Villa Urquiza is situate six leagues above the city of
Parana, on the Parani river. The river bank here rises to a high hill.
On ascending this hill we see a beautiful, undulating, country. The con-
cessions are about 30 acres each, but there is no limit to the number that
one man may own if he cultivate them. The houses are chiefly «ranchos,»
though some better houses of brick, with azc4ea roofs, are already built.
The chief produce is wheat. Every concession is fenced in, the forest
affording the material ; sometimes many concessions form one single field
of wheat. When the year has been favorable the crop gives 20 to 25
bushels to the acre. " It is reaped by machinery.
Cotton has not done well, not for any defect in the soil or climate, but
fOi* the uncertainty of obtaining hands on the emergency, for picking. But
for this, cotton would pay better than wheat. Land, cattle, and horses,
are very low in price. Pasturage, a little way out firom the Colony, is
abundant. The colonists send to market iu large quantities wheat, maize,
I)otatoes, butter, and cheese.
Mr. Forrest and Mr; Bussell have bought largely of these lands, and will
reap this year some hundreds of acres of wheat. In the course of pother
year a lai^e accession of immigrants is expected. Digitized by v^OOglC
30 AGRICULTURAL COLOl«I£S. .
The official returns for 1865 are —
((Extent of concession, 6,700 acres: colonists, Swiss 20, Germans 32,
French 8, Italians 5, and Belgians 6, families; in all comprising 355
persons, who occupy 232 chacra lots, and have plantations of peacl^
orange, plum, and fig trees. The colonists are made up of gardeners,
blacksmiths, carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and small dealers.* The
total stock dots not exceed 2,500 head. The annual crop averages 3,000
fanegas wheat, besides maize, potatoes, vegetables, cotton, and tobacco.
The tobacco is superior to that of Paraguay ; it gave this year a fine crop,
which was readily sold at tSd. per fi, wholesale. This industry is
increasing.)) The American preceptor, Mr. Rau, gives the following
report (1867):—
<(It is a farming colony of about 560 persons, of whom 100 are natives,
200 European Roman Catholics, and the remaing 260 are Protestants,
chiefly Europeans. A few Americans are also settled here, and arrange-
ments are made for the settlement of many more American families. The
colony is in its infancy, and most of the farmers are poor. During the last
few years some of the crops have not been good, and the first houses built
by the immigrants have, in very few instances, given place to better ones.
«We have received from the local Government a free concession of a
building lot, 200 * varas' in front, and 200 * varas' in depth, making about
eight English acres. This ground is finely situated. It is already fenced,
and on it we have erected a small house, sufficient for a temporary
residence for the Minister. A well has also been dug, in which abundance
of good water has been found. We have a contract with a responsible
party for the erection of the church, which will cost £300 sterling, and
the edifice, when finished, will be occupied for a school also. The
minister, being supported as such, -gives his labours free as a teacher.))
The enterprise at Villa de Urquiza is one of the amisiones)) under the
charge of the Rev. W. Goodfellow, D.D., of this city, and from the society
that he represents the colony receives help in all these projects.
Besides the above colonies, General Urquiza talks of establishing another
on that part of his lands lying between his palace of San Jos6 and the town
of Concepcion, the settlement to be bisected by a railway, with German
settlers on one side, and Irish on the other.
BU£IC0S AYRES.
The Swiss Colony of Baradero is about two miles N.W. of the port of that
name on the Parana, standing on high and uneven ground in a bend of the
river bluffs, and commanding a fine prospect. The Arrecifes river, whid^g
FORTUI^ATE SETTLERS AT BARADEHO.
31
abounds in fish, washes one side of the concession, giving water at all
seasons to the cattle ; as the stream Is only sixty feet wide there is easy
passage to a beautiful island which has excellent pasture^ even in the
greatest drought. This island is public property, and measures ten
leagues by three.
In 1856 the first Swiss colonists arrived, and some of these hard-working
men (according to the official report before Government) have been able to
make as much as £800 to £1 ,000 sterling. They are intelligent gardeners,
and the soil is so productive that they have raised sweet potatoes weighing
as much as a pound and a-half each, while the melons, cabbages, and other
vegetables are equally large, and grow in abundance. Potatoes constitute
the most profitable of their crops. Some experiments in tobacco turned
out so well that the growers were awarded a silver medal at the
Agricultural Exhibition of Buenos Ayres m 1856. Mani and linseed have
given good results, the first surprisingly so; still, the colonists find
potatoes to need less care, and this is their great staple, yielding two crops
a year; they also raise sweet potatoes, maize, wheat, and barley. Trees
come on admirably, especially peaches, and so favored is the soil of the
locality that even palm trees (which are always found in hotter latitudes)
are readily acclimatized. Some of the settlers make butter and cheese,
for which there is a constant market, either at Baradero or San Pedro ; the
latter port is six miles North of the colony. The boatmen of the coasting
trade are also good customers of the colonists, buying their produce to
take down to Buenos Ayres or elsewhere. The colonists know that the
greater their produce the readier market they find.
The Municipality of Baradero provide new comers with board and
lodging till putting them in possession of their lots. Every able-bodied
man receives a lot, 200 varas on each side, about eight acres in extent, on
condition of ditching it round, planting a few trees, making himself a hut
or «rancho,)> and cultivating the ground within a year; if a settler has
grown-up sons, each of them may have a similar lot, merely applying to the
Municipality for same. The colony counts 873 souls.
Germans,
45
Men, ....
... 800
Swiss, • • • •
. . . 260
Women,
. . . 293
French, .
67
Children,
. . . 280
Italians,
... 119
Catholics,
. . . 692
Spaniards,
... 37
Protestants,
... 181
Argentines,
L^ •
. . . 345
^t. 4i\ /i/\A ^^ ..^ l.
:-i. 1 _
The concession may be put down at 10,000 acres, of which one-half is
already allotted : there are 18 chacra lots of 12 acres, and 374 ^(^^/fj^Tp
32
AGRICULTURAL COLOIflES.
acres, besides 236 garden lots of two acres each ; all these are fenced in
with wood and wire, and have a ditch. The price is 800 paper dollars per
cuadra (305. per acre), or the rent $90 (IS*.) per chacra lot of eight
acres, per annum..
The colony has a school, 36 azotea houses, and 285 thatched ranchos ;
the plantations comprise 63,300 fruit-trees. There are 2 mills, 6 dairies,
3 masons, 3 carpenters, 2 blacksmiths.
The crops for 186i were —
Wheat,
. 1,091 fan.
Peas, . . . ,
50 tons.
Barley,
1,000 do.
Beans, . . . ,
30 do.
Maize, . . . ,
8,104 do.
Butter,
50 cwt.
Potatoes,
868 tons.
Cheese, . . . . ,
75 do.
Sweet potatoes, . . .
17 do.
Eggs,
. 19,500 doz.
The farming-stock comprises — 750 cows, 9,000 sheep, 100 swine,
1,050 horses, 2,990 hens.
The practical proof of the success of this colony is given in a personal
detail of the present condition of many of its members. Some of these
poor, but persevering people, on their arrival had a little money, which
they invested in cows, horses, bullocks, and fowl. For the first year, they
lived in miserable mud ranchos, earning a subsistence by selling eggs and
butter, and often having no meat to eat but biscacha flesh. The earliest
comers were French-Swiss ; but the greater number of those who arrived
from 1858 to 1861 were«German-Swiss. Out of the list of those given by
Sefior Piftero — ^to the number of 1 4 — we select a few examples : —
John Tenoud, French-Swiss, a farmer m his native land, of the Roman
Catholic religion, and 49 years of age on his arrival here, with eleven in
family, possesses now a capital of 300,000 paper dollars, the greater part
of which is put to interest or laid out in sheep.
James Cardineaux, French-Swiss, Roman Catholic, farmer in his own
country, 30 years of age on his arrival, with a family of six persons, has
now a capital, of 150,000 paper dollars placed at interest and invested
in sheep.
Amongst the second lot of eight families came Claudio Jamer, a French-
man, who had kept a small wine and flour store in France, 45 years old
on his arrival, with one grown-up son, holds to-day a mill, worked by
mules, in which he has invested 43,000 paper dollars, and is finishing the
erection of a wind-mill, brought by himself during the past year from
France. This mill cost 25,000 paper dollars ; he has two plots of farm-
ground ; a house with one room of azotea roof, and two of straw^ He is
not in possession of money, but is entirely free from deblipitized by v^OOglC
THE SWISS AT BAKADERO. 33
Here comes a list of German-Swiss, many of whom were obliged to hire
themselves out as labourers on their arrival. But see what German
perseverance does : — ♦
John Schar, a German-Swiss, a brickmaker in his own country, a
Protestant, 37 years of age, self and wife being his only family, exhausted
his funds on reaching here, as did all hereafter mentioned, has now a
capital of 100,000 paper dollars; one half lent out at interest, and the
other half in the house, or invested in draught cattle.
Felix Schaer, a German Swiss, day labourer in his own country, a
Protestant, 28 years of age on his arrival, with four in family, has now a
capital of 100,000 paper dollars ; two-thirds at interest, and the remainder
invested in implements and cattle.
Nicholas Hequi, German-Swiss, a butcher in his country, a Protestant,
38 years old on his arrival, his* wife and himself constituting his whole
family, is actually in possession of 60,000 paper dollars, part of which is
^t interest, and the rest invested in an azotea house, labourers' tools^
and cs^le.
The names of Andrew Schaes, a boy only 19 years old on his arrival,
lUAd now possessed of 20,000 paper dollars and a house ; of Fernando
Scbftcbbauoi with 40,000 paper dollars ; of Alexander Homber with 30,000 ;
and Jo$6 Matting 50,000, further prove what cim be done by agriculturists
in the Argentine Republic.
The Municipality of San Pedro (3 leagues above Baradero) offer 30
chacra lots of 6 cuadras (25 acres each} for immigrants, on the following
terms. The lots will be either sold at $900 per cuadra (30s. per acre), or
rented at $100 or 16«. The tenant or purchaser must pay for survey, &c.,
the sum of $t50 (24«.) There is also a suitable tract of land, 13,000
vairasby 4,dOO, ccmiprising about 10,000 acres, which may be bought in
lots from the owner (a private party) for chacra cultivation.
fi Digitized by
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34
COLOniZATlOU OP THE CHACO.
CHAP. Y.
COLONIZATION OF THE CHACO.
The Gran Chaco comprises an immense territory, for the most part unex-
plored, lying between Pars^uay, La Plata, and Bolivia. The Argentine
Bepublic claims all that part bounded on the North by the Rio Vermejo and
on the S.W. by the Salado, comprising a superficies of 250,000 square
miles. The soil and climate are equal to those of the most favored
countries, and the natural features are, vast plains of luxuriant pasture,
thick forests of various useful timbers, and numerous rivers and lagoons :
with such facilities for irrigation, it would be easy to raise any quantity of
maize, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, and rice. In the beginning of the 18th
century, thanks to the efforts of the Jesuit missionaries, several flourishing
settlements were springing up,* whose ruined remains are still seen near
San Javier, the Vermejo, and elsewhere ; but at present the interior of the
Chaco is entirely abandoned to roving Indians and beasts of prey. After
the expulsion of the Jesuits (1767) the ludians returned to a savage life,
and so late as 1860 the Tobas tribe murdered some Italian Franciscan
missionaries sent to convert them. Only five small «reductions)) of tame
Indians still remain, according to the report of Padre Rossi, prefect of
missions; viz. —
Men.
Santa Rosa,
220
CayastA,
175
San Javier,
194
San Pedro,
132
San Geronimo,
200
Women.
Children.
TotoL
258 . .
.. 353
. . . .
831
186 ..
.. 214
« . . ■
575
205 .
. . . 204
* . . 4
603
142 .
.. 281
...
555
182 .
... 182
...
, 564
Digitized I:
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THE VABIOUS IHDIAII TRIBBS. 35
In February 1863, the Argentine Government commissioned Mr. P. C^
Bliss to make a journey through the Ghaeo, and this gentleman reported
five Indian nations, distinct in language, but alike in habits and physical
appearance : the Mocovis and Abipones frequent the frontiers of Santiago
del Estero and Santa F6, while the Tobas, Ocoles, and Matacos, inhabit the
valleys of the Vermejo and Pilcomayo. The three last tribes are said to
number 20,000 souls. The Matacos are very industrious, being the best
peons on the frontier estancias of Salta, and in the sugar-fields of Salta and
Jujuy. During much of the year the Indians live on the fruit of the
algarroba and the «yuchan» or palo-boracho ; fish also supplies them
vrith food. They have no agriculture or farming implements. Formerly
most of the tribes had cattle and sheep, but the animals seem to have been
carried off by a pestilence. The Indians suffer great mortality from want
of clothing and proper habitations : they are very superstitious, have a
great fear of the Gualiche (or evil spirit), and some confused idea of a
future life. Their barter trade is very limited : they sometimes bring to
the frontier-settlements a few skins of pumas, jaguars, foxes, otters, &c.^
but they collect wild honey in considerable quantities, as also ostrich
feathers and the resin of ccpalo-santo.)) The Matacos and Ocoles could
easily be domesticated, if they were furnished with farming implements,
seeds, and a few head of cattle.
In May 1864 an expedition wag got up by Government, to open up a
highway through the Chaco, from Corrientes to Santiago del Estero, the
distance being set down at 120 to 140 leagues. 8r. Arce, the Vermejo
navigator, took a lively interest in the enterprise, and General Ferr6
marked out the road on a map. Passing through the «obrages)) or wood-
cutting establishments in the Chaco, opposite Corrientes city, the route
plunged into Indian teiritory, broken by numerous woods and marshes.
Hepe the want of water and provisions might constitute a greater difficulty
than any to be feared from the Indians. Some caciques signed a treaty with
the National commissioner, agreeing to provide these necessaries at various
points along the route. The chief profit to be derived from this new
highway was that a great export trade of mules and horses would be
opened for Corrientes with the Northern provinces. The report of the
officer commanding the expedition was as follows : —
«Bracho Viejo, May 22, 1864.
«Dear Sir,
«By the date of this letter you will perceive that notwithstanding all
the sufferings we have experienced in tjiis painful journey across the
Chaco, I, as well as my companion, Don Adolfo Reyes, am arrived safely at .
d2 '^'^'^^ ^ O
36 C0L0Hiz.iTi0]y of the chaco.
our destination : the ways and means would form a very long subject for a
letter, and I consequenUy reserve the details until my return.
«The few provisions that we carried were of an inferior description,
and had an unfavourable influence on our health, but like true Germans
we have already forgotten our past sufferings and laugh at them in the
houses of the engineers, Messrs. William H. Cock and Auguste Lemelle,
who have received us as if we had been old friends. We are now lodging
in the house of the Salado Navigation Company. Major Martinez is
rather ill in the Bracho encampment, with the Indians who accompanied
us, whose behaviour has been very bad.
<(0n the 1st of May an Indian ran away, back to Corrientes, with one of
the horses. On the 17th another Indian and a boy ran away, stealing our
beef and two of the best horses.
<(0n the 14th the Cacique Dachilique, with his brother, ran away,
stealing soipe of our horses and the only hatchet we had with us. We
lost our way during the night and passed 33 hours without water. The
Cacique was familiar with the locality and could have found water, but
seeing that the majority of our horses were tired, he separated from us,
to take the horses to his «tolderia.» He is the same who, three years
back, murdered the Franciscan friar at .Matar^i, and he communicated
this f?Mjt to the Cacique Leoncito, adding that he accompanied us, merely
to learn the state of the roads and cattle, so that he might be better
enabled to carry on his depredations against tlie Province of Santiago.
Such are the «tru8tworthy agentsjo given to, us by General Ferr6.
<cOa the I4th of May, at last, we came to the River Salado, and established
ourselves in the 'qanton Tostada,' now abandoned. Here we found the
fine and well constructed «azotea)) houses, erected by orders of our friend
Dr., Archer, of which we have taken a plan and sketch to present to you
on our return.
<(The road that we have travelled over is 175 leagues, and we are now
awaiting instructions and horses from the Governor of Santiago. The road
can be made transitable for cargo with very little expense.
«1 believe that we will start for Santiago op the 26th, passing by
Salavina, and from thence I will write further. I do not know yet when
and how we shall return to Corrientes, for this depends upon the measures
taken by the Government of Santiago.
(iFnANGis Pakkoki,
((Lieutenant Commanding. »
'Digitized by
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JOUMET AGftOSft THfi CBktO. 37
An intclKgetit Indian interpreter andtnrreUer, named l?elipe Saravia,
who had previously crossed the Chaco, made a joutnaey in January 1865,
with complete success, and his diary from Esquina Grande to Corrientes
is as follows : —
« January 21st. Left Colony Hiradavia, crossed to the right bank of the
Vermejo, following the stream (three leagues) as far as Selicano : good
water, course S.E and E.
«22nd. Started at sunrise, and reached Santa Rosabynoon (four leagues) :
course E. Pushed on (three leagues) to Gaflada Angosta, course S.E.,
roads good.
«23rd. Dined at Poso Escondido (five leagues): good water, road
nuddling; course E. At one part we had to hew a passj^e of half a league.
Advancing three leagues before nightfall we encamped near a large lake
which I called Selicano Muerto : road very bad, course S.E.
«24th. Made four leagues to the lake of Paso Yuchan : the route is
almost impassable, and we had frequently to cut our way through woods.
About midway is Palo Santo, where a port is p1^0Jected on thelUo Vermejo.
Leaving Paso YucbaH we cleared a road through three leagues of thicket,
and one and a-hcdf leagues over level ground brought us to Gampo Alegre :
here there is a good well, course E.
«25th. Reached Poso Verde (five and a-half leagues) by noon. At first
the road is good, S.E.; but we had two and a-half leagues E. through
dense woods, and then turning again S. E. came on a fine lake. Before
night we pushed on (three leagues) to Bancheria, S. E., the route being
impassable even to our sixty Indians on foot, until cleared by four men
with axes.
«26th. Starting at six a.m. the path was still impenetrable, and with
great difficulty we made two leagues to Pescado Flaco, where the steamer
Vermejo grounded last year, and sent her cargo on mule-back to Salta.
I employed the Ghinipis Indians to make a wood-opening here, giving them
both money and axes. Course E. : there are two large lakes.
«27th. Using our axes again we made three leagues to Bobadal, E. Two
leagues more through the woods to Yuchanes, E., where there is
a fine lake.
c<28th. At noon to Codillar, which is three and a-half leagues ; at first no
road, afterwards level camp, and <t lake ; route E. Two leagues further to
Paso Quebrahacho, over level ground, with water, E.
«29th. To Punta Monte two leagues, level camp, S. E. : here there is a
well. To Canada Larga one league, S., with water. To the well called
Pelaco three-quarters of a league, E. After tliis, half a league of thick
36 GOXiOMZilTIOK OF THE CHACO.
woods E., and two and tbree-^iarters of level camp to Taiial, S. In the
eyening we made three leagaes : good road to Laguna Larga, S.E.
«30th. Two leagues E. and S.E. to Paso T(*as, open ground. Three
leagues more, same road, to Laguna Verde, S.E.
«3 1st. To Tres Positos, four leagues, S. E., first half of the way through
thickets, afterwards open camp. At three p.m. started for Represa, two
and a-half leagues, good road, S.E.
((February Ist. After one and a-half leagues of good road, we had to
use our axes for two leagues, before reaching Binalar, S.E. Following this
route we reached Totoral, the road being for one and a^-half leagues good,
and the rest very diflBcult, S.E.
«2nd. Six leagues of good road, E., to Agua Hedionda, where'there is a
fine lake, and we passed the night.
«3rd. Five leagues good road, S., and then N.E. to Gateado lake : thence
to Paso Zancudo, four and a-half leagues, E., and then S., over level
ground : much water.
((4th. Taking S.E. four leagues good road to the lake of Algarrobal.
Same route, three leagues and a-half toPalma Acheada and the lagoons.
«5th. To Acheral, four and a-half leagues, clear way, at first S.E. and
then E. We passed the night at Potrero, five leagues further, S.E., good
road, and water.
<(6th. Started at six a.m. and took siesta at Tres Palmitas, six leagues
S.E., varying to E. Here there is no water. By sundown reached
Perdido, two leagues S.E.
((7th. Reached Montes Grandes by noon : five leagues, good road, S.E.,
much water, pushed on to Siete Arboles, three and a-half leagues same route.
((8th. Made five and a-half leagues to Arroyo Cortaderas, E., good road,
with water. Five leagues more to Bajo Grande.
«9th. Started at seven a.m. and reached the bank of the Parani, in front
of Corrientes, at noon. After siesta crossed the river to the city, which is
four leagues from Bajo Grande. »
The journey occupied twenty days, averaging seven leagues per day ; of
the total hundred and forty leagues, twenty-seven are impassable even to •
the Indians on foot, who have to cut a passage, as we have seen, with axes.
The longest interval without water is six leagues, but it is not clear that
the lagoons bearing the names of ((Stinking Waterw and ((Green Wellw
are fit for drinking purposes.
At the same time the ill-fated brothers Barron (formerly of Waterford,
Ireland) got up an expedition to traverse the Chaco from Goya to 5antiagdF,lC
enlisting for the purpose some Indian auxiliaries, but owing to the outbreak
THE HELVETIA COLOTTY. 39
of tbig Paraguayan war the enterprise was abandoned (The Barrens under-
took a second expedition from Mendoza to Chile, in which they were
carried off by -a savage tribe of Indians, but shortly afterwards effected
their escape. Finally they were murdered in San Juan on a third mule
expedition, in 1866.) Since 1865 no similar expedition has been. made, but
the road in question is one of vital necessity, and will probably be the first
ci^re of Government' on the conclusion of the war. The above named Sr.
Arce, at the request of President Derqui, made an attempt to cross the
Chacoin 1860 : his men (sixty peons) were not prepared for the hardship^
of the journey, and after three days' floundering through morasses they
mutinied ; just then a band of Indians fell on them, robbing the convoy,
and murdering a friar and six others. Sor. Arce miraculously escaped by-
floating down the Vermejo on the branch of a tree.
HELVETIA COLONY.
This colony was founded in October, 1864, by Dr. Eomang (formerly
physician to the Esperanza Colony), who obtained from the Santa F6
Covemment a grant of four square leagues, on condition of establishing
125 families thereon. It is situate N.N.E. from the Calchines, on the River
Cayesta, about a league beyond the Indian village of Cayesta. The first
settlers were twenty-four families from Esperanza, and others firom Villa
Urquiza, who preferred this place on account of its excellent soil and
situation, the farming lots being sold very cheap. The average price is
100 Bolivian dollars (£16 sterling) per lot of 85 acres. Dr. Bomang's
house is in the centre of the spot marked out for the future town and port
of the colony : the port is good, and protected by a picturesque and wooded
island from the south wind. The river San Javier is about 300 yards wide,
and schooners from Buenos Ayres come up to the colony. The road hence
to Calchines is mostly through swamps and thickets, with open camps at
intervals : the pasture is very poor, unless near the colony, where there is
a fine black vegetable earth. Mr. Perkins writes of the locality as
follows : —
c(A little over a year ago I fra veiled all over that section of the country,
and found it, without exaggeration, the finest place for farming and cattle-
Tearing purposes I have seen in this country. The ground or soil is black
and sandy, and the grass hard ; but not near so hard as south of the river
Salado. I think for sheep it would not do so .well in the beginning ; but I
fancy that 'gramilla' would make its appearance sooner than near Esperanza^
San Jeronimo, San Carlos, &c.
40 COLORIZATIOilC OF THE GHACO.
«Romaiig's grant is situa^ on the immediate banks of the navigable
branch of the Rio Parana, called by the country folks ' El arroyo del pueblo
viejo : ' by ^ pueblo viejo ' they understand an Indian viliagje, Cayesta, at a
distance of about twenty-five leagues from the city of Santa F6. There I
have seen the ruins of a church aAd a number of houses — all seemed to
have been built of tapia or adobe : remains of bricks and baldosas could be
seen in various parts. The former ground of the chui*ch is now used by
some of the baptized Indians as a burylng-ground : they put pieces of wood
and branches of trees on the tombs. Most of them have chacras (fenced in)
and grow corn, water melons, pumpkins, and mani.
«The women are industrious : they spin, dye, weave, sew and stitch
tolerably well; they rear cattle, have first-rate milch cows, but make
neither butter nor cheese, only using milk as a beverage. Their clothing
is of the most primitive nature. The land would be capital for growing
cotton and tobacco. The milch cows would be very safe and do first-rate
on the fine island opposite the shore.
«Dr. Bomang has the land divided into lots of five and twenty cuadras,
each 1 50 yards square, and he sells such lots in the immediate neighbor-
hood of the river for 100 Bolivian dollars, a little further off for sixty, and
those lots situated two miles from the river for fifty.
«I forgot to mention that within a league of said land there are beautiful '
forests of a great variety of trees. The forty families who accompany Dr.
Bomang are all known to me ; they are old settlers of Esperanza, and have
the routine of the exportation of timber, &c., which is the principal reason^
I think, of their removing farther north. They all handle the rifle well,,
and are not afraid of the Indians.»
The situation is most picturesque, on the banks of the San Javier, which
has fringes of fine timber, and some fertile islands. The colony counts 40
families, wbich comprise 167 individuals, and 100 more families are ready
to come out from Switzerland as soon as the war is over. Some of the
lands are good, others need drainage, but have excellent timber. The
chief products are maize, wheat, and potatoes. Baising pigs pnmiises to
be a lucrative business, as the animals are fattened on maize, and the hams
sell at 18d. per %. Cayasta is an Indian village, comprising thirty huts, a
house belonging to a Spanish wood-cutter, and the residence of the cacique,
Tomas Valdez. It stands on a bluff near the San Javier, with a zone of
open camps ; but the horizon is bounded on all sides with a dark fringe of
wood. All these lands, as far as Saladillo Dulce, are very suitable for
colonists, with easy communication with the river Parand. The Indians
of Cayasta are indolent, thievish, and fond of hunting and fishing : the men
THT sa^ Jimn raoiscr. 41
lore robust, and ihi ifoiiMk baVe regular fenturies. Tbdr ranchos are clean
•lid 'tomtttodions, baOt of long reeds* They dress decently, even the
efaildren wearing shirts. ' Maize grows well, but is little cultivated.
The colonists of Helvetia lost no time-in bringing the land under cultiva-
tion: by report dated January, 1866, tliey had sown: as* follows : —
43 fanegas wheat, | 10 fanegas beans,
126 do., maize, 10 do., other vegetables.
1 5,000 plants tobacco, 1 ,000 orange trees ,
10,000 do., cotton.
Their stock comprised —
760 cows,
90 horses.
10,500 fruit trees,
80 pigs,
400 sheep.
The Provincial Government has solicited of the National authorities that
all subsidized steamers shall be ordered to stop opposite the colony, in the
Boca del Riacho Hemandaria. Thus, the colony will come into direct
communication with Rosario and Buenos Ayres.
SAN JAVIER CONCESSIONS.
In April, 1865, Messrs. Wilken & Vernet obtained from the Santa F6
Government a concession of 100 square leagues (650,000 acres) on the
river San Javier, for the establishment of 250 families from Germany, to
whom they would give 50,000 sheep, 4,000 cows, besides horses, &c. The
colony was to be established within three years, and the colonists to be
exempt from taxes for five years, besides exporting their produce duty
free for the same term. The site was well chosen, about thirty-five
leagues north of Santa F^ city, and nearly opposite La Paz in Entre Bios.
Mr. Vernet's diary of his journey to San Javier is interesting —
«I started from Santa F6 on the 10th of August, at 10 a.m., accompanied
by my peon and a merchant of the village of Las Calchinas.
aAt noon we arrived at the little village of San Jos6 del Rincon, situated
about three leagues £*N.E. from Santa F^. This village has about 1,000
inhabitants, afme little church, and 10 or 12 stores, or (ccasas de negocio.»
The natives occupy themselves with growing wheat, Indian com,
water melons, and pumj^ns (these letter are of cdossal dimensions ; I
was told they harvested last year some weighing about lOOfb each), oranges
and peaches for home consumption : all the other produce is exported to
Buenos Ayres. San Jos6 has a fine port on the. river Colastine/lfnd Jl^]K
two large 8choone;:s loading wheat and Indian corn. '^' '^^ ^ o
42 GOLOHIZATION OF XHE^ CHACO.
«The road from Santa Fe to San Jos6 is rather bad and heayy on acooant
of the «baftados)> which must be passed, and is also intereept«l by tie
mouth of the Laguna Grande, which must be crossed in a canoe and the
horses swimming.
<cFrom San Jose leads a road to the village Santa Rosa, or Las Galchinas,
situated on the'banks of the river Cayesta, which is a prolongation of the
Gol^stin^ ; this road is also very tiresome for horses, passing through long
tracts of (cbaQados,)) and through heavy sands, and is likewise intercepted
by a branch of the Parand, which must be crossed in a canoe. This, branch
or channel leads a huge quantity of ParanA water into the Laguna Grande,
on its north-eastern boundaries. The distance from one village to the
other is seven leagues.
«The productions of Las Galchinas are — wheat and Indian corn,
which are exported to Buenos Ayres. The port is very good, and I saw two
vessels and various ' chalanes' loading. There are about 600 inhabitants in
this village, and a fine two-steepled church, of good materials, recently ^
constructed by order of the National Government : there are three or four
merchants, the principal one my fellow-traveller, Don Francisco Cardona.
((Las Galchinas was originally a settlement of Indians ; but their number
is now very limited.
((On the 11th, at 1 p.m., I left the Galchinas, in company with my peon
and the ^corregidor,' Jos6 Rojas. At dusk we arrived at the new colony,
Helvetia. I spent the night at the house of Dr. Romang.
((On the 12th of August, at 7 a.m., we started for San Javier, after
having taken the indispensable mate and purchased some provisions for the
journey. After a leisure gallop we entered a forest, which has two or
three leagues depth on the river Gayasta, and extends, landAvards, for
several leagues. The rest of the road is open camp, scattered with groups
of trees. In some parts the ground is low and swampy, in others, a little
high and dry. In some parts the river San Javier touches the terra firmuy
ia others it retires, thus forming small islands and * baflados.'
((The distance from the colony of Helvetia to San Javier is computed by
some at fifteen, and by others at eighteen leagues. Half-way there is a
beautiful spot on the banks of the river ; it is called El Paso del Aguara,
and belongs to Mr. Genaro Elias, as also another place a little further to
the north, called La Estancia Grande. A little to the south, at Las
Algarrobas, is the property of Don Daniel Gowland. Both of these
gentlemen are resident in Buenos Ayres. ^ j
<(At half-past four p.m. we arrived at the vUlage of Satf iS^t^^.a^^^S^^
LAiro ORAICTS OP POUR THOUSAND ACRES. 43
Messrs. Wilken & Vernet endeavored to form a company in England, but
failed; the concession is now void.
In July 1866, public attention waS notably directed to this part of the
Gran Ghaco as a field for emigration. A French colony vras projected at
Pajaro Blanco, a Dutch colony near Wilken's grant, a Galifomian colony on
the San Javier, a Basque colony hard by, and another at San Antonio on
the Rio Salado. Governor Oroflo passed a bill through the Chambers giving
estancia lots of 4,000 acres each at a nominal price, the law being as
follows : —
Art. 1 . The lands bordering on the river Para nd between the concessions
of Mr. Charles Vernet and Sr. Navarro, extending back westward to the
Saladillo Grande, are hereby given in perpetuity for the use and benefit of
immigrant families.
Art. 2. The Government will draw up a map pf the territory, marking
sites for towns, each of which shall have an area of four leagues square
for streets, buildings and a general grazing-common.
Art. 3. Each township shall be divided into building-lots of SOyardg
frontage by the same depth, and chacras of 20 cuadras each (80 acres) : the
building lots to be given gratis, as also the chacras at the rate of four
cuadras for each person.
Art. 4. The rest of the territory shall be distributed as estancias of
5,000 yards frontage by the same depth (4,000 acres), or 25,000,000 square
yards, to be sold on a year's credit to natives or foreigners who settle
thereon, but not more than two estancias can be sold to the same individual.
Art. 5. The price of these lands shall be set down on the map, according to
their distance from the river, the nature of their pastures, water-supply,
wood, &c. as fixed by Government tariff which shall never be under $300
per square league, nor over $400.
Art. 6. All sales, grants, or concessions will require the indispensable
condition of settling on the ground, according to the existing law.
Art. 7. The proceeds of lands sold as in Art. 4 shall be devoted to paying
the passage of foreign emigrant families from ftuenos Ayres to their
intended place of settlement in the territory above described.
Art. 8. The expenses of passage for said families shall be considered as
a loan, for which the head of the family must be responsible, and it shall
be as a mortgage on the lands ceded or sold to the family.
Art. 9. All moneys advanced in this manner to each family for cost of
passage shall be refunded by the colonists, beginning the 2nd year after
settling, in a fifth part each year, without any charge forihtere|S|t.(^QQQ|g
Art. 10. The moneys refunded as above by the colonists shall form an
44 GOLONIZATIOn OF THE GHAOO.
<(Immigratioii Fand,» the annual interest of which shall be exclusively
devoted to the education of the colonists' children, public wories^ and other
purposes tending to encourage immi^ation.
Art. 1 1 . The settlers shall be exempt from all Provincial tax or impost
during five years after their establishment.
Art. 12. Native families of this or any other Argentine Province, who
may wish to settle in the Colonies or in their neighbourhood, shall enjoy
the same privileges as are hereby conceded to foreign settlers.
Art. 13. The Government will publish at expense of the State a pamphlet
comprising the present law, with a description and map of the territory
herein devoted to immigration purposes.
Art. 14. The Government is obliged to report each year to the
Legislature on the results of the present law, with a balance-sheet of
receipts and expenditure.
The only colonists who availed themselves of this advantageous offer of
lands were the settlers from California, who have since established a
flourishing colony. Meantime the Secretary of the Emigration Committee
at Rosario published a notice as follows : —
«Mr. Oroilo has authorised me to state that the conveyance of aU persons
desirous of settling in the Chaco will be fumighed gratis, and orders will
be transmitted to the agents of Mr. Cabal's jsteamer, the Proveedor, to give
free passages to such persons from Budnos Ayres to Santa F6, from which point
the Government will furnish transportation by land up the coast. At Pajaro
Blanco, the Government has a reserve of sixteen leagues to be distributed
gratis, in farms of eighty-five acres, to settlers. . All these I have explored,
and 1 give my word that no finer exist in the Republic. The vegetable soil
is from two to four feet in depth, and there is plenty of wood; while the
low lands in front, through which the San Javier runs, offer the most
admirable pasture lands for cattle and the rearing of hogs. Twelve
leagues above the flourishing colony of Esperanza, on the Salado River, is
the site of the projected colony of San Antonio, where settlers can get
grants gratis of 2,500, 1,500, 1,000 and 500 acres, according to their
priority of arrival. This place is as yet outside the frontier, and
cannot be settled on except by a considerable number of people, say a
hundred to a hundred and fifty, for protection against the Indians. The
Chaco will give the new colonists all the meat they want. There is a great
abundance of deer, large and small, carpinchos, armadillos, ducks, geese,
partridges, moor fowl, fish, .&c., besides a sprinkling of tigers, wolves,
foxes, wild hogs, and vast quantities of the American ostrich.)* o
galifohhiak sbttlebs at san.javier. 45
THE CALIFORNUN COLONY.
In the last week of May, 1866, a number of Californian farmers who had
come to settle in the Argentine Republic, accompanied BIr. Perkins of
Bosario in an exploring expedition to that part of the Gran Chaco lying
between El Rey and San Javier, on the banks of the Parana : the river Rey
is in 291at., S. The expedition was composed of the following persons
and material: — Messrs. William Perkins, leader; J. Aguirre, surveyor;
Alexander McLean, James B. Locket, William J. Moore, Zina Port, Francis
Binitz, Josiah Reeves, John Smith, Harlow, William H. Moore, Moses J.
Moore, Charies W. Burton, Albert Vidler, M. J. English, Charles Stewart,
Charles Hildreth, Edward Washburn. John Penington ; four peons belong-
ing to the Surveying Department, one * capataz ^ and two men for the
carts, of whieh there were two, one ox-cart, and another drawn by horses.
In San Javier a number of Indians was added to the party.
They were six weeks exploring the Chaco up and down, and the land
proved equal to their best anticipations^ except near the coast-line of the
Parana, where the swamps extencUd from two to six leagues inland. They
crossed the River Rey, venturing into the territory of the warlike Tobas,
and here tliey found the land even to surpass what they had seen south of
El Rey. On their return to Santa F6 they resolved to establish their first
settlement a league northward of San Javier, in a fine tract of land which,
they therefore bought of the Government. They also applied for 40
leiigues of territory, about 13 leagues further north, and 45 leagues from
Santa Fe city, intending to have this in readiness when their friends from
California should arrive in large numbers. The total purchase-money
amounted to 13,300 silver dollars, equal to two and a-half pence per acre.
Some of the settlers were men of large means, one having as much as
£(0,000 sterling.
In the beginning of August they started for their new home in the
hunting-grounds of the Mocovies, the caravan comprising 30 men, women,
and children, with six loaded waggons, horses, oxen, and baggage : the agri-
cultural implements, machines, and provisions, were sent up by water, ia
two schooners. Three months later, Mr. Hildreth, one of the colonists,
writes as follows : —
«We have finally settled, say half comfortable, as far as houses and their
appurtenances go, just one league from the fort of San Javier. The colony
at present consists of thirty souls, men, women, and children. The land
under cultivation, and which was the labor of six men for six weeks, is one
hundred and fifty acres, planted with Indian com ^ ^iff J^" ^^^^ty ^e
46 COLOTIIZATION OF THE CH4G0.
vegetables — all of which are doing splendidly for newly broken ground.
The amount of stock, cattle and horses, now on hand, is about 125 head,
and good milk and fine butter are as plentiful here as rndte and catla below*
Our water facilities are as fine as any I have seen in the Confederacy —
having a branch of the San Javier in front, and the Saladillo Dulce at the
back. The captain commandant at the fort assures us that a *seca' is never
known here, and certainly his words have been verified since our arrival,
for it has rained incessantly. All the colonists are much pleased with the
land and its locality. If any of your friends are desirous of visiting us,
advise them to bring rifles and shot-guns, as game is very plentiful, and
two or three weeks can be delightfully passed hereabouts, hunting. Day
before yesterday I met three or four of the tame Indians, with thirty-seven
large red-deer skins, one tiger, and several fox skins, and which they
assured me had been killed near here, and were the work of tliree days
only. Ostriches and their eggs are plentiful, and the latter serve as an
excellent substitute for * hen fruit.' Last Sunday morning at daylight,
two of us started for a hunt, and less than two miles from the house we
brought down a fine deer, and saw five others ; but the little songsters
called * mosquitos ' and the heat of the morning induced us to give up the
chase, returning home, after two hours absence, with our venison, which was
the fattest I have seen in this country. The Indians, of whom we had such
bad accounts before our expedition to the Rey, have not yet mad§ their
appearance ; but we have always ready at hand, loaded and capped, a good
supply of rifles, guns, muskets, and revolvers, and as several of our
colonists have been old North American Indian hunters, the savages may
expect a warm reception if they come with evil intentions. As yet not a
single animal has been lost or stolen, and they are allowed to roam at will
all day, being seldom seen from the time they leave the corral in the
morning until they return at night. Too much praise cannot be given to
the captain commandant of the fort at San Javier, for he has extended to us
all the civilities possible to make u* comfortable and happy. »
A gentleman who visited the colony only six weeks after its establish-
ment describes it as follows : —
ccAfter some four leagues riding, we arrived at the ford of a large
navigable river which empties itself into the Parand opposite Ernandaria ;
upon its banks nothing can exceed the richness of its pastures. Then the
old works of the Jesuits open upon us, and we enter the fort or town of
San Javier, full of the largest orange trees I ever beheld, and of Indian huts ;
the old chapel, and wetlls of extraordinary bricks, made by the Jesuits,
rivet our attention. The new house and church, the work of our host the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
THB CALIFOEKIAH CaLOlVY. 47
Cora, are the largest edifices in the towof, and, although yet in winter, I
Bever beheld Tegetation more luxnrimt.
<iXbe Guru, who undoubtedly rules supreme in San Javier, has built a fine
chapel; it is long, broad, sufficiently high, with an iron roof, and most
commodious ; it has two bells, a sacristy, and the house and garden of the
Cura joins it ; it is the work of his own hands, save the occasional help he
could get from the Indians. Early on Sunday morning we attended his
chapel — ^surprised at the large congregation present. After breakfast we
proceeded to the Californian Colony — about a league north of San Javier ;
how great the contrast appeared between the Indian town and the Christian
settlement, where every implement of agriculture, every American inven-
tion to aid the colonists, ovens of all classes, culinary and household
furniture, besides large tracts of land ploughed to perfection, lay before us !
We alighted at Mr. M'Lean's encampment, who was most communicative to
us ; he told us he had travelled for the last thirteen months — since his
arrival overland from California — through Buenos Ayres and the other
provinces in search of tillage-land, and that only in the Chaco could he find
it to satisfaction. We proceeded with him to the other branch of the
colony — about a mile distant — ^where we were agreeably surprised at
meeting several ladies, besides Mr. and Mrs. Moore with a grown-up family
of eight in number ; one of his sons had just shot a red deer and a number
of ducks, buf their staple commodity is flour, of which tliey have a large
supply, and their provisions bread, beans, rice, coffee, tea, and sugar, for,
save the horses, working oxen, and an odd milch cow, they have no other
ianimals.
«Houses are going up : the colony, which consists of men of every trade,
are'tiost enthusiastic, determined to hold their position, and have solicited
Government for a further grant of twenty leagues. The rifles of the colony,
in quantity and quality, are beyond my description. We met the Coman-
dante of San Javier, Don Antonio Alsogaray, who has large fields of wheat,
maize, and alfalfa : liis services to the colony are innumerable. We were
also waited on by Custodio, the cacique, who expressed his pleasure at our
arrival, regretted that most of his Indians were on a hunting expedition,
that if We came to trade, until their return we should find almost nothing,
as every skin had been purdiased by the three traders or store-keepers of
the town — ^Don Benjaij^in Escudero, an Entre Riano ; Don Beltran Duran,
. a Frenchman; and Don Lucas Gaballo, a Spaniard, the Tattersal of San
Javier.))
Fray Emitivio, the cura, is.an Italian, about 35 years of age, very zealous
in his calling and disinterested.
Digitized by
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48 GOI^JHMTION OF Tff» CSACO.
A Tnriter in the Tiempo of Santa F6 says— kNo less than one hundred
years ago, under the gentle sway o£ tlie Jesuits, these very plains were
waving with maize, corn, and cotton, flanked by a large quinta ,weU
stocked with fruit trees and vegetables ; besides tro<^ of carts, the Jesuits
had a fleet of small river craft to convey their pi^duce to this market, and
these vessels were made in their own dockyard and by their own ship-
wrights and blacksmiths. In 1767 the mission had 23,000 head of Jiomed
cattle, 3,850 sheep, 3,000 horses and mares, and 380 mules.»
The progress of the colony could not better be described than in the
annexed letters, dated January, 1867 : —
((Since we have been here we are doing well ; our crc^s are excellent, all
except our early com, that was sown in a hurry and the land only ploughed
once. The regular crop, put in with greater care, is doing very well. I
have a fine garden, from which I have just picked a squash from Galiforniaa
seed that measures sixty-two inches in circumference, and I have as fine
water-melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, and other {garden stuff as you would
like to see. I have thirty head of cattle — cows and oxen. We have
planted 150 acres of corn, and have done some ploughing for next season,
which is not bad, considering we had such a late start. The Indians have
not troubled us at all, in fact lye have not seen one yet. The. tame Indians
of San Javier have not meddled with us either ; if they were to do so we
would take their whole town. The high water did not b^iiome visible
to us. It would require a further rise of seven feet to overflow the bottom
lands. There 'is excellent feed for the cattle all over these lands. The
oflScers from the Santa F6 Government gave us a visit ; they came up to
establish a new line of forts. They were very well pleased witlib our
crop. What we want here are our own country seeds, and Americans
to put them in the ground. I have six rows of cotton growing, and it is
as promising as any I ever saw in my life in the Southern States. I planted
the seeds at different epochs, so as to ascertain the best date for
planting. In a few days it will be in full bloom. — A. McLea]^.»
Mr. Moore, writes : — «Myself and two sons have planted forty acres of
corn, and about ten in garden stuff, and everything looks magnificent. Mj
water-melons are as fine as any I ever saw, and my pumpkins, only half
grown, weigh from 25 to 30 lbs. The corn, althpugh receiving no cultir
vation, is very fine. Everything is looking so thrifty, that I am thoroughly .
convinced that I can raise as good crops here as in any part of the world.
Our seeds have run out, but as soon as I can get a supply from home all
will be well.))
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
. THE eAXiroillfIA COIiOMT. 49 '
Anothe? letter, a yeaor later (January 1868), eontintied to report
^TerytWng most favorably —
«The CaUfomia Colony has proved a perfect success so far. Everything
that has been planted has thriven well, equal to the best parts of California.
The wheat crop has b^en harvested, and is splendid. The com is in
roasting ear, and is good for any country. Irish potatoes, gasden stuff of
^ kinds, cabbages particularly, melons, pumpkins, &c., I •consider very
superior. The young orchards are doing findly. The only thing which
has failed has been the sWeet potatoes. There is a kind of bug (called in
Worth America the lady bug), whidi destroys the vines. Everything that
has been planted has done well. The live stock is equally successful.
Cattle, horse*, and hogs have done, and are doing well. The colony has
never been disturbed by the Indians, and every family which arrives
lessens the probability of its being so. The colonists have not lost an animal
by Indians or tigers. They have lost a great deal of wheat by the rainy
weather, as they have no threshing machine, and had to tramp it out with
horses. Next season they vrill be provided with the best Yankee machi-
nery. If they had had the most ordinary reapers, and threshed ^ they would
not have lost a grain this year. They are preparing to sow a much larger
crop this fall. The land in this section is level, but 30 feet above the low
lands or ^bottom' of the Parana. The soil is a black loam about three
feet deep, and resting on yellow clay. The grass and herbage grow with
^eat luxuriance at all seasons. The grass is of the same quality as the
* merquite ' grass of Texas, and I consider it equal in all respects to that.
The ' paja,' or tall jungle grass, grows only on the Parana bottom or low
land, which is at this point 18 miles wide, and intersected with numerous
Magoons' and lakes. The cattle range in it to a short distance.' As for
land, there is certainly plenty of it. From this colony northward there is
not a house for twelve hundred miles, and the vacant public domain stretches
away for hundreds of leagues north and west. There is everywhere an
abundance of good fresh water, and plenty of wood, both fbr fencing and
firewood. We make it answer for building our cabins ; but it is short and
crooked for that purpose: For picket fencing and firewood it has no
superior, and there is plenty of it and well distributed. No clearing is
required, as the country is prairie, with skirts or ranges of timber extending
through it. The timber improves in quality as far up the country a$ I have
been, which is about fifty miles. The climate is healthy : there has been
no sickness among the settlers. We have had more rain than we needed
this summer. As to the price of land, I suppose the best land here can be
bought for $56 s. per acre, and from that down to nothing, and the seeii
50 GOIiOniZATION OF TH£ CHACO.
thrown in. For if any new comer should be too poor to buy, he would
have land given him to his satisfaction. What is most wanted now is
settlers, American or English, equipped for settling in the woods, and
armed to defaid themselves, as the colony looks to itself for protection.
We have lately had three English families from Buenos Ayres, and two
single men from California. If you see any American, English, Scotch, or
Irish famUies, or single men who expect to engage in agriculture, I have
no hesitation in saying that this is the best part of the Argentine Republic.
For live stock the country is as good as could be desired, but for the
present no large number of horses or cattle would be advisable. I say for
the present, but the colonists expect to bring large droves next spring.
The colony is much in need of a blacksmith's shop. A good smithy
equipped for farm work, is a desideratum, particulaiiy an American, or one
who has worked in North America. Persons moving up to the colony at
present, should come to the town of La Paz, in Entre Eios, which is on the
ParanA River, and there charter a boat to San Javier. The charter of a
boat from La Paz to this place, San Javier, would be about £5 sterling.
The passage to La Paz from Buenos Ayres is $18 s. I omitted to mention
that the ' mosquitos ' are bad at present, though there were none this
summer until lately. I deem it superfluous to say that we have game in
abundance, and lish in fabulous quantities. Cotton grows well, and also
hemp and tobacco. Please forwai'd any letters which may arrive for me to
the same address : Colonia California, San Javier, Santa F6.»
Mr. Perkins of Rosario, in April 1868, writes as follows :— «One of the
Americans from the Californian Colony is down here. He has informed the
Secretary of the Immigration Commission that the crops have been
excellent, and the people are happy and contented. The Welshmen and
their families, from Chupat, under Mr. Davies, are settled now amongst
the Americans, and have brought up the number of the colony to about
forty individuals. The new. French Colony, two leagues this side of San
Javier, has now fifteen families. »
At the close of 1868 we have the following accounts :— «The news from
the North American Colony is cheering. Their wheat crops are splendid^
and the Tiempo of Santa F6 says that relatively this colony will give double
the products that any of the others will, on account of the intelligence
and industry of the colonists. A sample of their wheat sent down to Santa
F6 was pronounced the first in the province. The colonists have received
several additions to their number from California. It seems the Govern-
ment considers the contract with Messrs. Wilcken and Vemet cancelled,
as part of this concession has been given to the Welshmen, another part
o
THE RIVADAVIA. COLOlfY. 5t
gold to Mr. Grognet^ and another to Mr. Laprade, both gentlemen of
Bosario. A quantity of the lands of El Key has also been solicited by
purchasers.))
RIVADAVIA COLONY,
This colony is situate on the N.E. bank of the Rio Vermejo, about four
leagues below Esquina Grande, in the Province of Salta, up to which point
there are no impediments to navigation. It is bounded on the north by
the grant belonging to the missionary fathers, on the south and east by the
Arroyo Tenco, and on the west by the Rio Vermejo. It covers a superficies
of 200 square leagues (1,300,000 acres), extending six leagues in breadth
from N.W. to S.E., and forty in length. The soil is mostly alluvial, being
periodically inundated by the Vermejo. The colony was established in
December 1862, and in January 1864, it counted 54 families, with an
aggregate of 550 souls. Since then, numerous «suertes» have been allotted
to new settlers, and the colony is now much larger. Each family receives
for ever a donation of a asuerto) of estaucia, 2,500 yards front, by the same
depth (about 1,200 acres), between the rivers Vermejo and Tenco, or
double that area if the lands have not frontage on the above rivers ; also a
building lot, 15 yards by 60, on the site of the proposed town; and a
chacra of four acres for cultivation. The chief industry of the colony is in
horned cattle, the stock amounting to 20,000 head. The soil is fertile^
and large plantations have been made of cotton and tobacco ; but at present
the difficulty of transport seems insuperable. President Mitre's Government
was authorized by Congress to expend all necessary sums for the construc-
tion of a road from Gorrientes to Esquina Grande : the project has been
allowed to fall into complete oblivion ; but the road, when made, will pass
through the colony and meet the high road of the northern provinces
somewhere on the frontier of Salta and Tucuman. Mr. Bliss speaks of his
visit to the colony in July 1863, as follows : —
«The long delay of our expedition had given rise to serious fears for our
safety, and our arrival at the colony of Rivadavia was hailed with the
greatest demonstrations of joy. When the expedition left Buenos Ayres,
its supposed destination was the port of Esquina Grande, four leagues above
the colony of Rivadavia. The event proved that no one on board had any
idea of the geographical and other changes which have taken place in that
region within three or four years. Esquina Grande, so noted in all previous
itineraries of voyages and explorations, does not now contain a single
building of any description, and, in fact, does not now exist as a port. The
river has, as in many other cases, changed its course, has dug a canal across
55 COLONIZATION OP THE GHACO.
Ihe peninsula, and has thus left the former Esquina Grande some distanee
inland ! The port tlius abandoned has, however, been more than replaced
by the establishment, during the year 1862, of the new colony of Rivadavia.
This colony is situated upon the northern bank of the Yermejo, four leagues
below Esquina Grande, and has a grant from the Provincial Government of
Salta of sixteen leagues of land upon the river and six leagues back. The
colonists were mostly Bolivians of the poorer class, from the provinces of
Tarija and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. This large grant of land was looked
upon with a jealous eye by the estancieros of the frontier, who coveted that
fine extent of territory for themselves. The Indians of the neighborhood
were mostly employed as peons, either by the colonists or by the
^fironteristas,' and some of the latter stooped to the meanness and wickedness
of prejudicing the Indians against the colonists, hoping thus to frighten
them from their enterprise. With the arrival of our steamer the safety of
the colony was thought to be secured, especially as three cannon ftrom the
old fort of San Fernando were brought to the colpny at the same time.»
Hr, Bliss was five weeks making the overland journey from the colony to
Buenos Ayres, via Rosario.
The latest oflScial report of the colony is only to January 1864. When
the navigation of the Rio Yermejo becomes a fact, the colony will spring
into great importance.
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PATAGOAIA^ A FIELD FOR CpLOlflSTS. 53
OHAP. YI.
COLOJIIZATION OF PATAGONIA.
Patagonu may be said to include all that vast territory lying between
the Rio Negro (40 deg. S. Lat.) and the Straits of Magellan, and estimated
to contain an area of 350^000 square miles. The climate is similar to that
of England, and the soil fertile : hence the country is well suited for
immigration, and various efforts have been made, within the last six years^
for this purpose.
In June 1863 the Government of Buenos Ayresmade the following grant
to Mr, Louis fiamberger : —
1. M. Louis Bamberger engages to bring out a German Colony, whose
total number shall be 10,000 families.
2. The Government of Buenos Ayres grants a free gift of public land in
the following proportion : for every 100 families one square league, besides
an equal quantity for the benefit of the concessionaire or joint stock
company.
3. The Government will provide each family with farming implements^
seeds, two milch cows, six heifers, a yoke of oxen, and twelve sheep.
4. The Government will support isdl the immigrants during six months
after their arrival.
The concession never came to anything, Mr. Bamberger failing to get up
a joinHtock company.
54 COLOKIZATIOlf OP PATAGONIA.
In the following month (July 1863} the Argentine Goyernment signed a
concession for the establishment of a "Welsh Goloiiy at the Ghupat, which
was carried out two years later.
In August 1863 a Frenchman, Dr. firougnes, who had been connected
with the French Colony in Corrientes, formed a project to convert the
Indians into colonists, giving them land, seeds, &c., and the Cacique
Baigorria promised him every co-operation. He also proposed introducing
European settlers, to be scattered along the rivers Negro and Colorado,
The scheme died in embryo.
In 1863, Messrs. Galvan, Aguirre, and Murga received a most advan-
tageous concession from the Government of Buenos Ayres, viz. : — ((Messrs.
Galvan receive for each family a gift of 160 acres land, a bonus of $12 s.,
and the loan 'of $160 or £32 sterling, to pay the necessary expenses.
Messrs. Aguirre and Murga receive 1,600 acres for each family, in fee,
but without any subvention in money. The concessionaires propose to
pay the passage of the immigrants, providing each family, on arrival, with
300 sheep, six milch cows, on6 bull, four horses, and a large piece of land.n
As an immigration scheme it has never been carried out, but numbers
of Englishmen have since settled on the lands of Aguirre and Murga,
some purchasing the land from them, others going into partnership with
them in the care of sheep.
In June 1864 General Paunero submitted an excellent project for a fixed
line of frontier on the Rio Colorado, which, but for the Paraguayan war,
bade fair to be accepted by Government.
The Rio Colorado rises in that part of the Andes contiguous to Mendoza,
almost in direct line from Buenos Ayres, in 35 S. Lat,, and 69 W, Long,
pursuing a winding course S. E. until it debouches into the Atlantic, a few
miles below our settlement of Bahia Blanca, about 40 S. Lat. Paunero
estimated its length at 197 leagues, say 600 miles, and proposed to erect a
line of forts with small military picquets at certain distances, along its
north bank. He required only 5000 men for so splendid an undertaking,
instead of 13,000 troops of the Line and National Guards at present
occupied in the straggling frontier service of these provinces.
The advantages to be gained by this scheme were thus summed up : —
1st. An effective and uniform cordon of frontier posts. 2nd. The creation
of an impassable barrier, which would prevent communication between the
Indians of the Chaco and those of Patagonia. 3rd. The recovery of
20,000 square leagues (a territory three times as large as England) of the
finest pasture lands. 4th. A saving of 60 per cent, in the expense of the jje
present frontier forces. 5th. The total relief of civilians from military
cox's EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 55
43eryic6. 6th. The development of a new commercial artery by the
narigation of the Bio Colorado. 7th. A safeguard for our .^heepfarmers
against the perils of drought, these men being formerly afiraid to move
their flocks towards the Indian territory. Moreover the lands adjacent to
the Colorado might be made to produce wheat for the whole Bepublic, the
freight to Bahia Blanca being easy, and therefore cheap.
In September 1864 a German company with a proposed capital of three
millions sterling sought a concession for the colonization of 30,000 square
miles of territory between the rivers Colorado and Negro.
The Company proposed to Government to introduce 20,000 European
agricultural families within five years, on condition of a cavalry force of
2,000 men, under Colonel Machado, being placed for that period to defend
the territory from the Indians. Each family was to receive free passage,
a rancho, food for the first year, seeds and implements, one horse, two
oxen, two cows, and 100 sheep. The emigrant would be required, in
return, to sign bills for £200, payable in 40 yearly instalments. Each
family was to receive 12 cuadras (50 acres) of land for tillage, and have
the pasture lands of the colony in common with the rest.
This enterprise shared the fate of those just mentioned.
The Bepublic of Chile having always claimed a great portion of
Patagonia, that Government commissioned Mr. Cox to explore the whole
course of the Bio Negro, as that gentleman held the conviction that fluvial
communication existed between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
In 1859, making Port Montt (a German colony on the Pacific in S. Lat*
41.30) his starting point and base of operations, in company with a few
determined companions, he passed the neck of the Cordillera at Mount
Osomo, and reached the western shore of Lake Nahuel-huapi. But he had
not calculated all the difficulties of the enterprise, and was obliged to
desist and return to Valparaiso. The Government was pleased with his
report, and the explorer only waited a favorable chance to carry out
his design.
On the 16th of December 1862, a complete expedition fully equipped by
Government, and consisting of 18 persons under his command, again
started from Port Montt, and reaching Lake Nahuel-huapi on New-year's
day 1863, undertook to cross the lake in a boat left there by Mr. Cox on his
former journey. A steep hill on the eastern shore now barred their
progress, but they resolutely cut their way through a virgin forest, climbed
the perilous glaciers, and Mr. Cox was the first who arrived at the summit,
and saw, to his infinite joy, the broad stream of the Bio Negro winding its
4^ourse eastward, till lost in the brown-colored Pampas of Patagonia.
56 GOLOlflZlTIOK OF PATlGOinA.
Having launched his boat in the Rio Negro, he determined to push down*
wards as far as the Argentine settlement of Carmen or Patagones, at the
mouth, on the Atlantic. Fearing a shortness of provisions, he ordered the
half of his party to return to Port Montt, and with the rest commenced to
descend the river, which he found navigable, with about 10 or 12 feet of
water. After some slight mishaps, in coming foul of the hidden obstacles^
he had the misfortune to capsize the boat, and his men narrowly escaped
drowning: he owed his own safety to a life-belt, the water being here
fourteen feet deep. The loss of all his charts and instruments was even
less than that of the provisions, on which depended the lives of all the
party. Luckily he fell in with a tribe of Pehuelches Indians, who at first
determined to kill all the intruders, but the interpreter explaining that
Mr. Cox was very rich, it was at length agreed that he should pay a large
ransom, leaving four of his men as hostages, while he proceeded to
Port Montt. He accordingly returned with the ransom, but instead of
accompanying his men back to Chile, remained a voluntary companion of
the Pehuelches, whose costume he even adopted, with the hope of accom-
panying them at the usual time of year in their journey to Carmen, to sell
skins and ostrich feathers. Some neighboring tribes, hearing of the
Christian who went htmting guanacos and ostriches with the Pehuelches,
threatened to make a «malon)) with fire and lance if he were permitted ta
remaiti in Indian territory, and he saw himself forced to return to Chile,
where an account of his explorations has since been published at the cost
of Government. By a fortunate coincidence Mr. Cox was wrecked at the
very same rapids mentioned by the Spanish pilot Yillarin, who reached this
point in a $mall vessel which ascended the Rio Negro from the Atlantic*
Hence Mr. Cox considers his expedition realized, and declares the water-
course navigable the whole way (excepting about a mUe) from one ocean
to the other. He speaks highly of M. Lenglier, a Frenchman who joined
him in all his perilous adventures. He states that as the Argentines hold
the line of the Rio Negro from Patagones to the Island of Choel-echoel, it
would be easy for Chile to occupy the remainder as far as Lake Nahuel-
huapi, and by this means a splendid country would be thrown open for
immigration, and a navigfable highway made available for commerce across
the continent.
It would seem, however, that more than thirty years previously the late
Captain Smyley had gone the same route : in a letter dated 10th IFebruary,
1865, he stated—
«In the years 1828 and 1829 1 made a tour of the coast of Chile, from
Copiap6 to San Carlos (in the island of Chiloe), and from there crossed the
GHOiUir AJfD AXGBimillE FROIECTS. 57
•CordtUera of the Ancks with the Arancanian Indians. After that, I
traTelled with the Pam|>as, Ghuhuelches, and MageUaa Indians, from the
head waters of the Rio Negro as far as the Straits of Magellan, and thenca
. back, oyer a more southern route, laying down the latitudes and longitudes
of the principal places on both routes. I have several times since then
travelled with the Indians on most parts of the coast of Patagonia. And I
still claim to be the first white man who ever took this route ; and I firmly
believe, from what the Indians tell me, that no one has ever accomplished
it since. I beg leave to differ with Mr. Cox, or any others who find a
carriage road across the Andes, or judge the whole course of the Rio
Kegro navigable as far as the South Atlantic. At the same time I must
acknowledge the route to be easy, and, for most of the way, through a fine
coontry. Nor do I think the day fer distant when this territory will prove
the richest part of South America, both in mineral products and for
agricultural purposes.))
In the year 1864, Mr. Orestes Tornero, a native of Valparaiso, solicited
from the Chilian Legislature a concession for all the territory lying betwe^i
deg. 49, S. lat., and the Straits of Magellan, fipom the Atlantic to the
Pacific. This slice of land is ^0 miles long (from Cape Virgin in the
Atlantic to Cape Desir6e in the Pacific), by 250 wide, which would give a
superficial extent of 75,000i square miles, almost equal to the whole island
of Great Rritain. The concessionaire bound himself — 1st. To establish
cokoiies on the territory ceded, the minimiun number of settlers at the end
of ten years to amount to 10,000 persons; and, 2nd. To establish two,
four, or more steam tugs. The colonists were to be free of taxes for
fifty years.
Another project fdr colonization and steam tugs was got up by Don Anjel
Palazuelos; but it is not clear if either of these enterprises will ever be
realised. At present, the Chilian Government is paying much attention to
the navigation of Magellan's Straits, having sent a war steamer to accom-
pany H.B.M.'s ship Nassau in the surveys and soundings ordered by the
British Admirality.
In August 1865, a grand project was got up by Don Juan Cruz Ocampo
and M. Brie de Laustan (the latter gentleman had much colonial experience
in Algiers) ; their prospectus was as follows : —
«The petitioners propose to form a Joint-stock Argentine Credit Mobilier
and Patagonia Colonization Company, within two years from date, with a
capital of £1 ,000,000 to £4,000,000 sterling : such company to have power
to emit lettres de Gage guaranteed by Government. They propose to
introduce 1 ,000 families (or 5,000 persons) within five years after formation
58 coLonuiTioif of fatagonu.
of this company, and 3,000 in the succeeding ten years, to colonize the
country lying between the Rivers Colorado and Negro, the Government
oeding to the company three-fourths of a square league (4,800 acres) of
land for each family introduced from any neighboring or foreign country.
They further propose to introduce, within five years as above, 800 fomilies
to settle south of the Rio Negro, and so on 22,000 families within fifty
subsequent years (divided in proportions of five years each), for the coloni-
zation of Patagonia proper, the Government ceding as before, at the
company's choice, a square league (6,500 acres) for each family so settled.
They propose to make these colonies pastoral, not agricultural, advancing
to each family a sum of £400 sterling in passage money, house, maintenance
for twelve months, and stock of 500 sheep, 50 cows, 3 mares, 2 horses, a
waggon, seeds, farming implements, and grazing land : the amount of such
advances, with interest and expenses, to be refunded by the colonists in
yearly instalments not exceeding 12 per cent., which would be more than
covered by the wool. They solicit from Government, besides a league of
land for each family (in all 25,800 square leagues, or 155,000,000 acres),
the following concession : —
«lst. Authority to govern the colony during sixty years, with a code
approved by Government.
<(2nd. Half the nett proceeds of import and export duties of the colony
for said term.
<c3rd. Exemption from import duties on all instruments and animals
introduced.
<c4th. Maintenance by Government of a proper military force.
«5th. Permission to build docks, railways, schools, &c.
«6th. Sanction for the Credit Mobilier Company's statutes.
«7th. Guarantee for the Lettres de Gage.n
. Mr. Ocampo died of cholei:a in April 1867, and H. de Laustan went home
to France. Tins was the last grand emigration scheme connected with
Patagonia, only one of which was ever carried out, and the history thereof
(the Welsh Colony) we shall now proceed to narrate.
THE WELSH COLONY.
In July 1863, the following concession was signed by the Argentine
<Sovernment : —
«The Minister of Interior of the Argentine Republic, Dr. William
Rawson, in name of the Government, on the one part, and a special
committee of the Welsh Emigration Society, composed of the following
persons:— G. H. Whalley, M. P., David Williams, High Sheriff of
THE WELSH GOLOI«T. 59
Carnarvon, and Robert John Partry, of Madrin Castle, Wales— on the other
part, have agreed to conclude the following contract : —
«lst. The Welsh Emigration Society shall send out, during ten years^
from 300 to 500 families of emigrants yearly, and establish them in the
territory of Patagonia, in the Argentme Republic, South of the Rio Negro.
«2nd. The Argentine Government grants to every 200 families a
municipal fee in perpetuity of two square leagues of land, the half of
snch land to be devoted to edifices and public works, such as schools,
churches, town-hall, house of correction, and other public purposes ; the
remaining half to be distributed in building plots, either to be given gratis
to the first settlers, or sold afterwards for the rental support of the colony.
«3rd. In addition to the 25 squares of land given by the law to each .
emigrant family, the National Government will grant an area of five
square leagues for every 200 families, adjacent to the respective munici
pality, to be divided among them.
«4th. In case the colonists require more land, they shall be permitted to
buy or rent the same, of the Government, on the most moderate terms, in
accordance with the laws of the country.
aSth. Any mines of metal, coal, or minerals which may be discovered,
shall belong to the finder, without any other impost than the * sovereignty *
as decreed by the law.
<(6th. The general management of affairs and government of the colony,
shall be vested in a commissioner or governor appointed by the National
Government, in the manner, and for the period, directed by the laws to be
made and provided for territorial jurisdiction.
«7th. The municipal administration shall belong exclusively to the
colonists, in accordance with their own regulations.
«8th. The colonists shall be exempt from all military service or contri-
butions for the term of ten yeard ; but they engage to defend themselves,
unaided, against the Indians.
«9th. When the population of the colony shall have arrived at the
number of 20,000 souls, it will enter as a new province, to form part of
the nation, and, as such, shall be endowed with all the rights and
privileges thereunto belonging : at the same time its territorial limits
shall be definitively marked out.
<cl0th. The National Government, seeing the distance and solitude of
these localities, will furnish the first company of emigrants with 4 pieces
of artillery, 50 fanegas Indian corn, 50 fanegas wheat, 50 tons lumbeivfor j
building, 200 tame horses, 50 milch cows, and 3,000 sheep, iatized bv VjOOglC
«ilth. The society will give timely notice to the Government of the
60 GOLOBIZAT^Olff OP VATAQOmk.
probable date when the first batch of colonists may be eiq>ected to arrive
at the port of Bahia Nueva, in order that the provisimis, cattle, &c.
mentioned in the previous article, may be sent to that, or any other point
indicated, in time to meet them on their arrival.
«12th. The colony shall be subject to the legislation to be dictated by
Congress, for the government of national territories. — W. Rawson, J. Love,
D. Jones Parry, Love Jones.»
The colonists sailed from Liverpool in the barque Mimosa, on April 25th,
1865, numbering 132 souls, and arrived safely at the River Chupat on the
28th of July, the site chosen for the colony being in 43 deg. 15 m. S. Lat.,
and 65 deg. W. Long. There were 62 adult males, 41 adult females, 17
boys, and 12 girls. From the very outset the Colony has undergone
severe vicissitudes, as appears to be' the fate of all new settlements ; in
fact, in the early part of 1867 the colonists determined to abandon the
locality, and actually transported themselves and effects some 40 miles to
a place of embarkation ready to leave. However, on further council,
nearly all returned to their farms, and have been steadily working aud
progressing since. It appears the great drawback to the place, from its
commencement, has been insufficient stock and implements. This has been
recently remedied to some extent by the importation of some American
ploughs, and 150 milch cows. There are no sheep on the settlement,
although there are abundant pasture lands in the vicinity. So far, the
colonists have devoted themselves to wheat growing, and, to the extent of
their scanty live stock, to dairy produce. These will evideptly form the
staple agricidtural industry of the settlement, but it is expected soon to
have a few flocks of sheep in addition. Sealing, salt, and mining
operations also, we hear, are in view. The Argentine Government have
bdiaved handsomely towards the Colony. For three years it has supplied
the settlers with provisions, it has spent about $10,000$. in cattle and
seeds, &e. for the place, it has supplied all the men with arms and
ammunition, it gave half the purchase money for the first schooner of the
Colony, and has again assisted in the purchase of another to replace the lost
one. All this without any other interest than that of encouraging
emigration and developing these territories. Each settler occupies a
chacra of 25 squares (nearly 100 acres) on the banks of the river, and
receives the Government subsidies in proportion to th^ family.
The Tehuelche Lidians — the genuine aboriginal Patagonians — ^visit the
settlement in tribes every year, for trade and to receive their rations from
the Government. The ostrich feathers and skins which they bring are a
Persons,
... 124
Brick, houses,
24
Banchos, ....
6
BIO CHUPAT AUD BAHIA IfUEVA. 61
profitable source of revenue to the colonists. Many horses and mares have
been obtained from them in the same manner.
The latest advices from the Colony give the following statistics: —
Families, . . • • • • • • 33 Ghcurch, • • . • • , . « 1
Milch cows. ...• 200
Horses and mares, .... 100
Wheat sown (acres), .... 250
The Committee of management (twelve in number) and Superintendent
of the Colony are elected annually. Secretary, Mr. R. J. Berwzn,
Covemment Agent, Mr. L. Jones.
Five hundred lots, of 100 acres each, have been measured out by a
Government surveyor, and it is calculated that the region on which the
settlement is placed is capable of supporting 20,000 souls. The ground at
present occupied by the Colonists extends on each side of the Biver Chupat
over an area of twelve miles. The climate is very good, a little colder,
but drier, and more bracing than that of Buenos Ayres.
Bahia Wueva, which is in the vicinity of the settlement, abounds in fish;
and in the adjoining country game is very plentiful. Seals are met with in
great numbers on the coast, and inland there are numerous herds of
guanacos or wild llamas whose skins are highly prized, and are used by
the Vidians as their only garment. Stone in great variety, gypsum and
salt are met with, the latter article in great abundance. It is also reported
that coal exists in the neighbourhood of the settlement.
An interesting account of the colony and adjacent country is given by
the Bev. Lewis Humphreys (who was chaplain at the Chupat during the
first year of the settlement) in his report to the directors of the Welsh
Colonising Company — '
KNew Bay, the place where we landed, extends twenty-two miles inland
and is seven miles across the entrance. It forms a splendid port, perfectly
sheltered from all except the east wind, which, however, very seldom
blows ; and it is spacious and deep enough to accommodate the whole navy
of Great Britain at anchor. Mr. Downes, the mate of the Mimosa, assured
me that Mew Bay is the best port of South America for vessels to enter and
remain in perfect security.
t<The Biver Chupat flows through at least three distinct valleys, divided
from each other by chains of hills. The settlement is at present confined
to the lower valley, whiiSh is about forty-five miles long and about five
miles broad on the average. On the whole the land is dry, though there
are a few swampy parts, which dry up entirely when the river is low. The
supply of timber in this valley is limited, for though there are trees of many ^Ic
62 COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA.
kinds, they are all small, being generally not larger than the common hazel
of this country. There is, nevertheless, a superabondance of brushwood^
-which will last us for fuel indefinitely, since it grows again after being cut.
The second valley is similar to the first, and is very fertile, being covered
thickly with cock plants. It contains abimdance of sandstone, admirably
adapted for building purposes, and the trees improve considerably in size
and strength. Six hundred farms, of 100 acres each, have been measured
out in this valley, in readiness for the second company of emigrants. The
third valley has been only partially explored. It is narrow, and bounded
on each side by rocks. What lies higher up the river is not yet known.
The river water is pure and sweet, though its color is somewhat cloudy,
and near the surface is frequently brackish. The unanimous verdict of
every one of us is, that the climate is delightful and very healthy. A few
were ill some weeks after landing, owing partly to the fatigue of carrying^
and arranging heavy goods, and partjy to their frequently getting wet
through and allowing their saturated clothing to dry upon their persons ;
otherwise no cases of sickness occurred, whilst many instances might be
given of the perfect restoration to health of invalids. Indigestion, head-
ache, toothache, colds, and consumption are unknown there, although I and
many others have frequently slept in the open air night after night in the
depth of winter, which is so genial that no evil effects followed an amount
of exposure which would certainly have proved fatal in any part of Great
Britain. Owing, however, to our being compelled to subsist on salted
meat during the passage out, and for the first few months after landing, the
majority of us suffered more or less from scurvy, and some of us from boils.
Still, all these inconveniences did not prevent our enjoying to the utmost
the splendid atmosphere, which kept us constantly hungry, and was praised
by every one as the ' healthiest a man ever breathed.' 1 believe that every
person in the colony ate double what suMced him at home. With such an
excellent climate it is not surprising that the land should be extremely
fertile. We discovered several kinds of edible wild plants, such as wild
celery and turnips, and a sort of potato, all of which were very good.
«Yariou8 unavoidable delays which took place at Liverpool and at New
Bay prevented our settling ourselves ready for work until about two
months after the proper season for sowing wheat, consequently all hopes of
a crop for the first year had to be abandoned. We sowed small quantities
of Indian corn, barley, potatoes, and garden seeds, all of which grew
excellently, and yielded a gratifying crop. It is absolutely necessary to
sow wheat before the end of the winter, in order that it may fructify befbre
t^e period of summer heat, which would otherwise scorch it rather than
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PROSPECTS OP THE WELSH COLOIflSTS. 63
ripen it. The iirheat harvest takes place about Christinas, so that the news
about the crop cannot reach this country before the end of January next.
We labored under the grave disadvantage of not possessing an adequate
stock of implements of husbandry, and consequently were unable to sow as
much as we ought to have done last season. We had two ploughs from
England, and Mr. Lewis Jones obtained an American plough at Patagones.
We had also a few Argentine ploughs, but they were of very little use.
We kept two men constantly at work ploughing, and succeeded in sowing
about sixty acres with wheat ; and when I left they were busily engaged
preparing ground for a second setting of potatoes, Indian corn, &c. We
had at that time been supplied with many thousands of young trees for
planting, among which wer#4,000 fruit trees. The people generally were
in excellent spirits, and looked forward to success as a certainty. Those
among us who at first took a desponding view, and neglected to cultivate
their farms, now praise the climate and the land, and resolve to work in
earnest. Nothing whatever was wanted but a crop in its due season, and
every indication appeared to justify our expectations of a favorable harvest.
The locality has shown itself to be highly satisfactory, and our faith has
given place to the certainty resulting from the possession of tangible proofs.
And I may be permitted to observe here that as the products of the Ghupat
valley correspond in all other respects to those of the Rio Negro valley,
there is no reason to suppose that wheat and sheep will prove to be excep-
tions. At the Spanish settlement on the Negro (Patagones) wheat has been
largely grown during the last twenty years on the same ground, and the
increase has been frequently as much as forty-fold. I learnt also that the
increase in sheep at Patagones has been very pleasing this year. On one
estancia alone there are 100,000 sheep, being an increase of no less than
30,000 in one year. The capital on that place last year was 70,000 sheep.
Cattle are fat, and horses plenty. The sheep we had at New Bay were
large and well-wooUed, and no doubt they will have increased m the same
proportion as the sheep just mentioned ; in fact, they were brought from
the very flocks referred to. Our horses and cattle were remarkably fine
and fat, even in winter, when they require no housing or other attention,
as the pasturage is abundant and excellent all the year round. At the
time I left we had about 100 cattle, sixty of which were milch cows, two
full-grown bulls, and a number of younger ones. We had about forty
Jiorses, and each family possessed pigs and fowls, * all of which were
increasing rapidly. In some of the farm-yards the fowls were sufficiently
abundant to recall to mind the homesteads of Caermarthenshire. None of
w chose to kill cattle for food, owing to the paucity of their number, and
Digitized by VjOOQIC
64 GOLONIZITIOI!! OP PATAGONIA.
the pigs and fowls had not increased sutTiciently for us to commence eatings
them ; and, indeed, there was not the slightest necessity to interfere with,
them, for the whole territory literally swarms with game; hares, guanacos,
armadillos, ducks, geese, partridge, and ostriches, and the river and bay
furnish an ample supply of fish. The hares are very large, and commonly
weigh from IStt to 20S, whilst the birds are very fet and frequently find
their way into the cooking-kettle.
«It is an act of the merest justice for me to state that the Government of
the Argentine Republic has acted in a most liberal and praiseworthy manner
towards the Welsh Colony. Our president, Mr. William Davis,* visited
Buenos Ayres near the end of 1865, and obtaii^d from the Government a
monthly grant of $700, to be paid until the col6ny becomes self-supporting,
and supplies have been regularly furnished ever since through the agency
of Mr. H. Harris, a merchant long established at Patagones. I must also
not omit to mention gratefully the valuable assistance afforded us by the
native Indians. The chief of the tribe sent us a letter asking for English
saddles and rum, in exchange for skins^ &c., and I understand that a treaty
of peace and commerce has since been made. Two families of Indians
have been several months established in the colony, and to their assistance
we owed the greater part of game we obtained. They bartered large
quantities of fresh meat for small pieces of bread, and exchanged mares
for horses. The colonists now possess about 40 dogs, and the consequence
of both these circumstances, is, that they have begun to tire of a super-
abundance of fresh meat. When I left, very few persons lived in the fort :
the majority had built brick-houses^ and many had gone to live upon
their own farms.
«In the proper season, seal-fishery is carried on to a great extent along •
the coast of Patagonia, principally by English and North American sailors^
who know their haunts. On several occasions some of the settlers have
seen multitudes of seals basking on the beach of New Bay, and have killed
a few with sticks. New Bay is a general rendezvous for vessels engaged
in this business, and a trade has sprung up between them and the settlers,
which will become an important element in the well-being of the colony,
as soon as we are in a position to supply them- with fresh provisions, &c.
Some of the settlers have visited a number of Guano islands, which lie
within easy reach of the colony, and have seen the guano, but as it varies
greatly in quality, even on the same spot, it will be necessary to employ
men well acquainted with it to superintend the selection and loading
of a cargo.
« Having thus touched upon all the points connected with the settlement j
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^T^JE WELSH COLOHY. 65 '
that I can call to miD(}y I -will relate two important and interesting episodes.
On the 17th September, 1865, the Comandante of Patagones, accom*.
panied by several Argentine officials and a military guard, performed the
ceremony of formally giving us possession of the territory and naming mv
first town the *TheBawson/ in honor of Dr. William Rawson, the Minister
of the Interior, who has manifested a true and deep interest in the
establishment of the colony. In March 1866, a sealer entered New Bay,
and two of the settlers availed themselves of the opportunity to migrate to
the Falkland Islands. This desertion suggested to others of a similar class
the idea of sending a memorial to the Falkland Islands praying to be
removed from the Welsh settlement. The memorial misrepresented the
state of affairs, and was dispatched without the knowledge of the general
body of the settlers. In consequence of that memorial Her Britannic
Majesty's ship Triton visited the colony in June last, to remove the people
in a body, if necessary. This offer caused the greatest astonishinent in the
settlement, and enquiries were made to ascertain who among them had
been guilty of sending the memorial. The commander of the Triton
produced the document for inspection, when it was found that Very few
names had been appended, and the greater part of those individuals denied
their complicity when taxed with it. We at once declined to leave the
colony, and the Triton, having assisted us to repair our little schooner and*
presented us with a cask of lime-juice, left us where we chose to remain.^
In 1868 a sad misfortune befell the colony in the loss of the little
schooner and six of the colonists, viz. : — ^Robert F. Nagle, captain, from
Liverpool ; George Jones, from Liverpool ; James Jones, from Gaermar-
thenshire, having a wife and family m the colony ; Thomas D. Evans,
Manchester, also having a wife and family in the colony ; David Dsfvies,
from Aberdare, having his parents in the colony ; and Thomas Cadivor
Woods, Secretary of the Welsh Golonising Company at home, who had
recently arrived in the Colony to report upon it, and had taken a trip to see
Patagones before returning home.
The colony sustained another loss in the departure of ten settlers, who
have joined the Californian colony in the Gran Chaco. Latest advices are, ,
however, more cheering: — «The Colony is mai^ching steadily onward.
The provisions,- clothes, and wheat, barley, and cattle were all safely
landed, and caused universal joy and activity. Active Lidian trade has
been done, and was doing when I left.))
The success of the Welsh Colony may be said to rest on the future
support it will meet with in regard to an augmentation in its number. It
is almost superfluous to remark that any new batch of emiffrants (^^Jd^ttOtp
66 COLOIflZATIOK OP PATAGOIfU.
encounter the same misfoptunes that befell the original settlers. Too great
stress, however, cannot be laid on the following points as a guide to
emigrants who may contemplate joining their countrymen : —
1 . That they should come out with some capital.
^2. That they should bring with them ploughs, hand-mills, seeds, and
lumber, for the construction of huts, as there are few trees in the country.
3. That they should sail from England in the month of March, in order
to arrive at the Ghupat in time to prepare the ground they will be called
upon to cultivate, before the season for sowing, which in this country is
in the months of Hay and June. *
FREE LAriD-GRAIfTS AT BAHU BLAHCA.
It will interest many Englishmen who come to this country with the
intention of settling, to know that camp can be taken out direct from the
Argentine Government in «propiedad,)) at Bahia Blanca to the extent of
one <csucrte» (6,700 acres) in one name, on condition that a house or
ccrancho)) js built upon the land, and a flock of sheep placed upon it, within
one year after allotment. The cost of solicitatloi\ and surveying, &c., say
JE40. By a flock of sheep is meant 1 ,000 head.
After allotment of camp a deposit is required of $10,000 inxc. or £80,
to be made with the Provincial Bank, which Is returned when the above
conditions have been complied with, but is forfeited should the depositor
fail to comply. The Provincial Bank allows six per cent, per annum on
this deposit. At the end of two years, when the Justice of the Peace of
the district has certified that all conditions have been duly carried out, the
title deeds are forthcoming. It must be distinctly understood that the land
must be occupied during the whole of the term of two years. Land can
still be obtained within twelve or fourteen leagues of the town and port of
Bahia Blanca, arid all the banks of the numerous rivers in the neighbour-
hood have not been taken up, though with the increasing number of new
settlers going down this will not long be the case.
It is stated that vessels of* any tonnage can enter the bay, and th^re
seems no doubt that a good landing place might easily be found. The
present settlement is composed chiefly of Englishmen^ who would welcome
any new settlers, and give them all the assistance in their power. The
close proximity of the Indians is the chief drawback ; but so long as cattle
is not reared, there is little to tempt them within range of the Snider
rifles. Indians cannot carry corn on horseback, neitlier do sheep travel on
foot fast enough for their purpose, so this is no very great impediment after
all. The frontier is to be moved to within thirty leagues of Bahia Blancilu
lahd-grahts at bahia blanca^ 67'^
at the close of this unhappy war, which will give greatly increased
protection.
The land and climate are both admirably suited for agriculture, and the
natives grow a great deal of corn there already. It may be mentioned^
that scarcely three years ago land could be obtained at Azul on the same
terms as at Bahia Blanca, and it now fetches $100,000 or about £800 per
«suerte.» The latter place has the great advantage of a seaboard, while .
all the produce of the former hds to be conveyed to market in buUocE—
carts at no small cost.
Sheep— Picked flocks can be bought at S20m^, or 3s. 4c/. per head, and
fatten wonderfully on these camps. There seems no reason why sheep-
farmers should not boil down their own sheep, and thus net the proQt of the
saladero, and save the great loss of grease, which travelling any number ol
leagues must always eutail. This could the more easily be done here,,
as the transit is comparatively easy.
Intending settlers should secure the services of some good English,
laborers, as native labor is both scarce and dear. The usual wages are
from $300 to $350, or say £2 10s. to £3 per month. A steamer runs once
a month between Buenos Ayres and Bahia Blanca, and as there is na^
opposition at present, the charges are very high, but directly there is-
sufficient trade to make one pay, it will not be difficult to get one on the
berth to make regular passages at moderate rates. There is also an Italian,
schooner which makes frequent trips to Bahia Blanca, bringing up the
produce of the place. Bahia Blanca being situated so far from Buenos
Ayres and Montevideo, will never be troubled by the many revolutions-
which so often occur here, which is of itself a great thing in its favor. la
the face of the bad returns that sheepfarming has given during the last few
years, coming settlers ought to turn their attention in the direction of this ,
noted corn-growing district.
An Englishman who recently made a trip to Bahia Blanca and Pat agones,
describes those places as well suited for new settlers ; his narrative is the
following —
«We started from Buenos Ayres in the steamer Patagones, on the lOth.
nit., and after three days of beautiful weather arrived at the port of Bahia
Blanca. The entrance to this place must prove a great drawback to its
future advancement, as the windings of the channel remind one of trying
to follow the turns of a corkscrew. From the steamer's anchorage to tlie
shore appears to be about a mile distant, but the windings of the creek are
such that the boats have to be rowed at least a league. However, having
overcome these little difficulties, we reached the mole (which is constructed^i^
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68 COLOJflZATION OF PATAGONIA.
of several old bullock carts), and were kindly received by Seflor Coronti,
who furnished us with horses to proceed to the town, which is about two
leagues from the landing-place. Having taken a walk round in the evening
we saw all that is to be seen about the town, which is not much, though
there are some nice chacras and quintas in the vicinity. Next morning,
Sefior Coronti had horses ready for us, and his son kindly accompanied us as
a guide, to have a look at the camps on the Naposta, which is a small river
rising in the interior, and running through the town. For two or three
leagues up the stream the valley of the Naposta is under cultivation, and
the wheat crop looks very promising. The camps we found much better
than we had anticipated, and Seflor Coronti offers very fiir terms to
settlers, and great praise is due to him for the way in which he has exerted
all his energy for the advancement of Bahia Blanca, and for his unbomided
hospitality to strangers. In the evening we were introduced to the
commandant, who showed us through the fort, which, in comparison with
the others we have seen on the frontier, is certainly a model of neatness
and order. The following morning we embarked for Patagones, and in
eighteen Iiours found ourselves off the mouth of the Rio Negro ; the bar
being in good order for crossing, we at once entered this finest of Argentine
rivers, and steamed up to the town of Carmen or Patagones, lying abont
seven leagues from the mouth of the river. We were favorably impressed
with the first appearance of the country. The banks on each side of the
river (which at the town is about 150 yards wide), are beautifully laid out
in chacras, quintas, &c., and the trees and range of hills beyond reminded
ns more of the old country than anything we have as yet seen in South
America. Having effected a landing, which is much more easily accom-
plished here than in most Argentine ports, the steamer lying within about
ten yards from the north bank, we found that Patagones was far before the
sister town of Bahia Blanca in its accommodation for travellers, each family
seeming to vie with the other in trying to make strangers feel at home. ^
«But, to resume our journey. The next morning, having got torses from
Seflor Aguirre, who offers every assistance to parties wishing to look at the
camps, we started up the north side of the river, which, for a distance of
six or seven leagues, until you reach the Fortin, is thickly covered with a
bushy scrub, the range of hills coming down to the river's edge. But,
after passing this, the country opens out into fine level camp, lying between
the hills and the river, which we found covered with excellent pasture.
The sheep and cattle were very fat, and the flocks remarkably clean.
Towards evening we arrived at the China Muerta estancia, belonging to
Seflores Heusser and Clarez, where we stayed till next morning. This
^AJAGON^S iJVD EIO NEGRO. 69
estancia is one of the finest in this part of the country ; the camp is
excellent, and has a large river frontage, besides permanent *lagunas' in the
back. Next morning we resumed our journey, and arrived at the Guardia
in time for breakfast. This is a stirring little place, there being no less
than six stores, all of which seem to do a strong trade with the Indians ;
several tame tribes of the latter live in the vicinity, and are constantly to
be seen going about in their native costume of ^quillangos.' The same
evening we arrived at the estancia of four Scotchmen, the first of our
countrymen settled in this quarter, and who, with their proverbial hospi-
tality, insisted on our making this our headquarters during our stay. We
were happy to see that though but lately started they had made very fair
progress, and were looking forward to good returns.
«We crossed the Rio Negro at the Guardia, and swam our horses over,
and then rode up some four leagues to the ' tolderia ' of the Indian cacique
Saihueque, who had just arrived from the Manzanas, with about 130 men.
From Buenos Ayres accounts of these Indians we expected to meet a set of
ferocious savages, and consequently felt rather doubtful what kind of
reception we should get ; but we were agreeably surprised to find the
chief a fine looking, intelligent, and altogether superior man, who received
us very kindly. We spent a couple of hours with "him, squatted in front of
his toldo, and before leaving we purchased a few skins, &c., from them,
and returned highly delighted with our visit. To a stranger, an Indian
* tolderia,^ or encampment, with its huts of guanaco skins, and its swarthy
inhabitants variously engaged — some cooking, some bringing firewood,
others sleeping, and the women sewing the 'qoillangos' with ostrich
sinews — ^the war lances stuck in the earth in front of the tents, and the
immense number of horses feeding over the plains, is altogether an
imposing and interesting sight. These Indians do not disturb the country,
as in the northern provinces ; but come in, quarterly, for the jrations allowed
to them by the Government, and therefore it is to their interest to keep
themselves quietc
«Ileturning to the north side, we rode up some eight leagues further on.
Here, as lower down, the camps were in excellent condition. The 'rincons*
formed by the river are very numerous, and well suited for agriculture ;
this is carried on to a good extent in the district, both sides of the river
being under cultivation, and the wheat crops' looking very promising. The
next day, having said good-bye to our countrjinen, we again crossed the
river at the Guardia, returning to the town on the south side. Here the
camp looked beautiful, and was of much larger extent than that^n the
north side, the hills being very far from the river. Digitized by vrrOOglC
^0 COtOTCIZATlOir O* PAfAGOKU.
«The Bio Negro is well wooded on both sides, and stddded here and
there with islands, some of which are onder coltivation, and others covered
with trees, adding much beauty to the scenery ; in fact, the view from
some of the higher points of the hills, looking up the river, we have seldom
seen equalled. The river seems to vary very little in breadth, and from
good authority we learn that it has been navigated for forty leagues higher
up by a pilot-boat drawing four or five feet of water ; but, unless propelled
by steam, this navigation must be tedious, on account of the strong current
running down.))
EPC(3LISH SETTLERS ON THE RIO «EGR0.
Advices from the Rio Negro to September 1868, are as follows : —
((The English settlers are going on very prosperously, and are planting
wheat in large quantities, at the same time they have sheep smd cattle.
Messrs. Frazer and Co. have a league of excellent land on the banks of
the Rio Negro, in a ' rincon ' formed by a bend of the stream, about
thirteen leagues above Patagones ; they have sown fifty fanegas of wheat,
which at present looks beautiful, and next year they intend laying the
whole of their land under the same crop. Three families formerly of the
Chupat Welsh Colony, are settled about twelve leagues higher up than
frazer's ; their wheat is also in excellent condition. In fact, the whole
country looks blooming with corn-fields at greater or lesser intervals, and
the Rio Negro is rapidly becoming a wheat country. Englishmen arrive at
Patagones by every steamer, to lay down wheat, as land is very cheap, and
there is no fear of Indians. Government grants of land may be had higher
^p the river, and Messrs. Aguirre and Murga are sending down, at once,
a little steamer drawing three feet of water, for the navigation of the
Rio Negro. Messrs. Kincaid have also ia fine estancia, nineteen leagues
from Patagones, where they are also planting wheat, and have some sheep
-and cattle, besides a splendid quinta. The government has resolved to
place 1,500 men on the Rio Negro frontier, and the first batch of 150 goes
'down immediately. This shows that our legislators attach due importance
to the rising colony, in which Englishmen are becoming the chief settlers.
We understand there is a project before the Chambers, for a railway from
Patagones to Salinas, for the ' conveyance of salt to the seaboard. The
flour-mill now building on the banks of the Rio Negro, about five leagues
from Patagones, ]will be concluded before the epd of the year, and will
prove a great boon to the town, as hitherto the wheat had to be ground
%hand.)» ^'^'""''^ o.
ElfGLISHMEIf AT BAHIA BLANGA.
71
*P. Gorronti,
*J. Birtoli,
*Fusoni Brothers,
*George Glaraz,
*J. Arnold,
* John Sinclair,
*Richard Tillard,
*S. J. Eyre,
*John Mildred,
*E. P. Goodhall,
*Bryan Smith,
P. de Montravel,
J. Corbyn,
}. Barber,
William Perkins,
F. Daniel,
— Webb,
E. Herbert,
A. Huber,
L. Jacob,
J. Jaccar,
J. Jockez.
FOREIGN SETTLERS AT BAHIA BLAIfCA.
The following are the names of the principal foreign settlers at Bahia
filanca. those marked with an asterisk (*) are already occupying the
land: —
* Arthur Mildred, and
2 English laborers,
*J. H. Edwards,
*R. J. Greuie,
*H. Hentze,
*Richard Newton,
J. Schuriz,
H. W. Goodhall,
F. Smiles,
Rev. Mr. Powell,
T. Fallon,
The greater number of the English portion of the above are settled ou
the banks of a river, known as the Sauce Grande, situated about ten leagues
from Bahia Blanca, to the north. They have some twenty-five squares of
land under cultivation, sown with wheat, barley, and maize — ^tMs being
their first year — and we may look forward tp seeing three times this extent
of camp turned up for next season.
By the commencement of 1B69 a large brick^built estancia-house will be
fini^ed, and before Jane next two other smaller ones.
We have great hopes of the newly-elected President, Seflor Sarmiento,
and trifist he may afford us the protection that is alone wanted to make this
part.of the Republic a most prosperous district. He mayrest assured that
European energy, combuied with capital, vfiU accomfdish the work of
civilisation, if it is only allowed to run its course unmolested, and in a very
abort: apace of time will change a comparatively waste comer of this*
provia^ into a thriving and populated country, j
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72 THE BIO DE LA PLATA.
CHAP. VII.
BIO DE LA PLATA AKD TRIBUTARIES.
The River Plate is one of the longest rivers in the world, inclnding its two
great tributaries, the ParanA and Uruguay; Suffice it to say that the
traveller can take steamer at Montevideo and ascend without inteiruption
to the capital of Matto Grosso, a distance of over two thousand miles.
At Montevideo the river is about 75 miles wide, but the water is brackish :
at Buenos Ayres the water is quite fresh, and the river is 28 miles wide.
Twenty miles above Buenos Ayres we artive at the junction of the Parana
and Uruguay. The lower Parana is about 900 miles long flrom its
embouchure, near San Fernando, up to the Tres Bocas, rf>Ove Corrientes :
Jhe upper Parand, from the Tres Bocas to the Salto de Guayra is only
navigable for small boats. The Paraguay river, which debouches into the
Parang at Tres Bocas, is navigable as far as the CuyabA: on this latter
stream is built a city of the same name, residence of the BraziUau
authorities of Matto Grosso, about 1,100 miles above the city of Asuncion,
the capital of Paraguay. The Uruguay is ordinarily navigable only as high
as Salto, but in flood-times the steamers ascend, the rapids and go up to
Uruguayana and San Borja, in th6 Brazilian province of Rio Grande. The
Rio Negro is one of the chief afQuents of the Uruguay ; the Salado of the
Parand ; and the Vermejo, Tebiquari, and Pilcomayo fell into the Paraguay* j
Digitized by X'-^
VOYAGE TO MATTO GROSSO. 73
THE PARANA.
Buenos Afjres to Matto Grosso.
Before the breaking-out of the Paraguayan war there was a regular
Brazilian monthly mail-service from Buenos Ayres to Guyabd, making the
trip in ten to twelve days. The vessels were of light draught/ and the
accommodations pretty good. At the same time the Paraguayan Govern-
ment had a fine line of steamers plying twice a month between Asuncion
and Montevideo. Various private companies also had steamers running
from Buenos Ayres to Gorrientes, and an ineffectual attempt was made to
navigate the Vermejo. The scenery from Buenos Ayres to Guyab^ has
much of interest for the traveller, although at times the coast is low and
marshy, and the wooded outline of the Ghaco, at last grows monotonous
and wearisome : there are sundry important'towns and halting places.
If we leave the roadstead of Buenos Ayres on a fine morning, nothing
can be more charming than the panorama of the city and suburbs. We
pass, in succession, Palermo with its plantations to the water's edge ; -
Belgrano, seated on a gentle acclivity , Point Olivos, a handsome promon-
tory, where a new town has been projected ; San Isijdro, with its delightful
country-seats ; and San Fernando, at the head of the estuary of
la Plata.
We enter the Parand by one of its many mouths, the best known of
which are the Gnazili and Palmas : the latter is the shorter route, used by
small steamers which touch at Zarate and San Pedro. The delta of the
Parand comprises a multitude of fertile and picturesque islands, planted
with fruit-tree^ ; and if the traveller halts at San Fernando or the Tigre,
he can amuse himself for several days by boating in the Gonchas and Lujan
rivers, or making an excursion to the Garapachay islands. These islands
are poetically termed the Argentine Tempe ; they teem with the richest
fruits, and a number of Italian charcoal-burners are the principal
inhabitants. We do not get a glimpse of the mainland till reaching
Campana, the estancia of Dr. Gosta, late Minister of Education, who has
built a fine house cm the bluff.
Zarate is a straggling village of 1,000 inhabitants, with a small trade in
grain, firewood, and vegetables. The principal shopkeeper is an Italian,
Constancio Silvano. There is a new church, also a tolerable Basque inn, and
two public schools which are attended by 106 children. The adjacent
estancias of Latorre, Lima, Saavedra, and Fox, are worthy of mention.
The cultivation of grain has ^^^^t^y increased of late years. During
74 THE RIQ DE hk VhkTl.
the Paraguayan i^ar this has been the chief port for shipment of horses. The
* barrancas' on our left are precipitous/ and here and there crowned with
a hut or ombii-tree, till we reach —
Baradero : this m another small port, comprising 105 bouses, a church,
andean unfinished school-house. The place derives some importance from
a flourishing Swiss colony. The department comprises ninety-two
estancias, of which seven belong to Irishmen : the largest proprietor is
D. Patricio Lynch.
San Pedro is a better town than the preceding, and looks well from the
river: it has a new church, fifty-six rateable houses, and two public
schools. D. Martin Pagardoy keeps a good inn, and is favorably known to
all the Irish sheepfermers. A little above San Pedro is the pass of
Obligado, where the English and French cut the chain placed across the
river by Rosas. Higher up is the fine estancia of Llavallol, at a point of
the river called Rincon de Las Hermanas, after which we pass the
fiincon Ramallo.
San Nicolas is the last town in the territory of Buenos Ayrcs ; it is a
place of some importance, having received the rank of 'city,' with a
population of about 8,000 souls. It has 300 rateable houses, besides Mr.
Armstrong's valuable mill. It is the centre of a district which comprises
sixty-five estancias, and a number of chacras under wheat.
By daybreak we are coasting the territory of Santa F6, and in less than
twenty-four hours from our departure from Buenos Ayres we are in sight
of Rosario : the steamer goes alongside a wharf, there being deep water
close to shore.
Rosario is the great outlet of the upper Provinces, and will shortly be
connected by railway with Cordoba, the chief city of the interior: the
trade of the port has much increased of late years, especially since the
beginning of the Central Argentine Railway. The * barranca' is so high
that there is no view of the place till you reach the Calle Puerto. It is a
well-built town covering 150 cuadras or blocks, with a population of
20,000 souls. The plaza, parish church, custom-house, market-place, and
Jardin de Recreo, are worthy of notice : the theatre was recently burnt
down. The railway terminus and workshops at the North end will repay
a visit. The town also possesses two mills, three saladeros, two cmieteries
(for CathoUcs and Protestants), a public hospital, an American chapefand
school, and gas-works in course of erection, There are some good hotels
and coffee-houses. Messrs. Eeane and Soames, agents for the Standard,
will give strangers any information they may require. ]l|r. Hutchinson
H.B.M. Consul, lives beyond the railway terminus. Excursions may be
ROSARtO Td PARAIVA. 75
made by rail to the English settlement at Frayle Muerto, or on horseback
%o th^ fine English estancias in the valley of Pavon . For further particulars
of Rosario, see the chapter on Santa T6 province.
On leaving Bosario, the first thing that calls attention is Mr, Wheel-
wright's mole for landing materials for the Cordoba railway ; they have cut
away the * barranca ' and erected works projecting into the river. We
next pass Urquiza's saladero, and another a short distance higher up. The
Parana is here very wide, at least 2,000 yards, and the current runs three
miles an hour, the water being very deep in the channels. The islands on
all aides are Iqw and slightly wooded, and we can see the mainland on
either side.
About six leagues above Bosario we sight the edifice of San Lorenzo,
with its tapering belfry and large convent. iThis was erected by the
Franciscan missionaries, years gone by, with the probable view of forming
a nucleus of civilization on the frontier of the Indian territory^ and is
excellently adapted for a river port, having a small cove hard by. The
cove alluded to, was the scene of the first struggle for South American
independence; General San Martin (1810) here attacked a Spanish force
which attempted to land, defeating them with a handful of cavalry.
The high land on our left soon merges into a network of islands, the
deep water channel skirting along the opposite coast, which presents a
number of inlets, through which we get glimpses of wood and dale,
perfectly charming, in contrast with the sloping * barrancas' of sand-stone
or tosca. The soil of these, generally presents to the eye a superficies of
luxuriant grass, or thick shrubbery, and casually a grove of trees,
resembling the olive, at a distant view. The section made in successive
ages, by the river, shows a variety of geological strata. A thick, loamy,
daric soil, of six or eight feet, covers a layer of sand, beneath which latter,
the hard tosca stretches down to the water's edge, the base being lined or
interspersed with sand heaps, fragments of boulders, or trunks of up-
rooted trees.
The approach to Parand, is highly picturesque : towering bluffs of red
sandstone, here and there relieved by a wild furze of deep green, the
effect being very pleasing to tiie eye. There are several lime-kilns along
the Entre Biano coast, as the sand here makes excellent lime : it looks like
tosca, and the lime appeal^ of the best quality, its snowy heaps studding
the beach. About a mile below Parand are some hulks, used for coal
deposits. The town of Ilbrand is not visible from the landing-place. The
scenery of this part of the river, all the way from Bosario, is interesthig,
but there is a solemn stillness pn these rivers that almost oppresses you.
76 THE RIO DE LA PLATA.
When we lose sight of the bluff oa which Bosario stands, the coast of Entre
Bios is not visibly, while that of Santa F6 gradually declines towards the
water's level. Here and there a stray rancho indicates that pastorfl avoca-
tions are not quite abandoned, in a province which has been reduced almost
to destitution by being the theatre of so many wars. At times also we see
a small group of horses or horned cattle, which have made their way down
one of the fissures caused by rains or inundations to drink the mellifluous
wat6r, which possesses many grateful and salubrious qualities. Before
long, the islands on our right will have disappeared, and the continuous line
of a bold barrier, on either side, shows thattlie current here is uninterrupted,
and consequently runs with tremendous force, the stream b^ing about .
two miles wide.
On arriving at Parana the steamer is usually boarded by the agent, Mr.
Lorenzo Myers, a veteran Englishman of seventy-seven summers, resident
in the Biver Plate since the year of Independence, 1^16. He is a hale,
active, old man, and has been an eye-witness of the numberless vicissitudes
of the Bepublic during the last half century. Parana was the capital of the
Argentine Bepublic during nine years, from the fall of Bosas till the battle
of Pavon (September 17, 1861). The Custom-house is at the foot of the
«barranca,)) and a steep road leads up to the town. First is thte Church of
San Miguel, commenced fifteen years ago, but abandoned when half built, •
aad now a refuge for all kinds of vermin. There are, however, two good
churches in the town, and these are quite enough, as the population does
not exceed 8,000. The grand plaza is very pretty, and the buildings on all
its sides modern and tasteful, most of them having been constructed under
Presidents Urquiza and Derqui. The old Government-house is now
ceded to Dr. Fitzsimons for a college. The Legislative Chambers
are a fine range, occupying the north side: the President's palace also
merits attention. But the sceptre of metropolitan sway is gone. Parand
is now all but deserted, the only signs of vitality being a newspaper
and a theatre sometimes visited by strolling players. The club house is,
iperhaps, thg greatest monument of desolation : the ball-room has been cut
into two bed-chambers and a kitchen, for a coffee house ; the billiard-room
and reading saloon are- let out to a hair-dresser, and nothing remains of
fbrmer greatness.
A steamer plies across the river to Santa Fe city, remarkable for its
antiquity and many fine churches. A number of islands inter vene^ com-
pletely shutting it out from view. *
Leaving ParanA we are forced to make a circuit of a couple of miles, to
avoid the bank, which has already nearly closed up the port. The firsule
PARANA TO LA PAZ. 77
object of interest is tlie saladero built by Messrs. Seflorans, with first-clas3
steam-power attached. The main stream washes the banks of Entre Bios,
and on our right is a vast archipelago, on whose islands there is little
timber^ but a strong luxuriant grass, which is sold in ParanA for fodder.
There is a marked improvement in the scenery : amid a succession of gentle
undulations on the right, the eye wanders over a rich champaign country,
presenting much the idea of an English park or demesne. Groups of noble
trees, like oaks, break the surface pt a verdant vegetation, and Nature has
outdone the fancy work of a landscape gardener in the rich variation of
tints and foliage, the graceful outlines of hill and vale, the stately forms of
pine and algarroba, which every moment present themselves.
Five leagues from ParauA we sight a cluster of ranchos, called wThe
Spaniards,)) the owners of which usually hoist their Hag to salute vessels
passing by. Behind this little settlement, which is occupied in cutting ■
timber, is the colony of Villa Urquiza, where great efforts were made to
plant cotton in 1864. A little further we meet a place where boats usually
cross over to Santa F6, taking horses in tow. These animals swim muck
better than in Europe, and it will be remembered that Urquiza has several
times passed at the Diamante an army of cavalry, for which Hannibal would
have required rafts or bridges^ Diamante is some leagues below Parana,
and is now deserted.
Two hours' sail beyond Villa Urquiza brings us to a place called Conchillas,
where we perceive an estancia-house almost surrounded by trees. Next
appears a lonely hut, commanding a grand view from the barranca, and the
adjuncts of a cattle corral and small port show that animals are here
embarked for the saladeros.
At Cerrito was the fine estancia of an Englishman, the late Mr. Henry
' Vidal. Here it was that during the campaign of Paz and Lavalle against
Bosas, the Correntino army, under General Ferr6, ^andoned the liberating
cause, and returned by land to Corrientes, owing to local dissensions in
that province. The cliffs again approach the water ; but instead of sand or
tosca we have argillaceous deposits of red and purple colors, Avhich are
said to be very valuable for dyes, although not turned to use, as no one
seems to interest himself in the speculation. Happily, there is no jealous
guardian of woods and forests, and several small skiffs in yonder island are
loading timber, which is had for the cutting. These wood-cutters are
Italians, who trade with Buenos Ayres, and the Genoese may be said to
monopolise the small traffic of this river. The river now breaks into a
variety of channels, and the pilot has sometimes to take soundings. We
cannot see the Gran Chaco, from which we are separated by numerous
78 THE RIO DE LA PLATA.
islands, teeming inrith tigers and small crocodiles; the latter are called
caymans, and resemble what naturalists term the 'iguana.' Times have
changed wonderfully since twenty years ago, when the voyage from Buenos
Ayres to Paraguay occupied half a year. The Italians first introduced an
improvement, marking two or three trips annually, and the introduction of
steamers soon reduced the voyage to a few days. Still, the windings of
the river, frequency of sandbanks, and force of the current, call for the
most constant attention, and going «aguas arriba» is rather tedious for
those who are not admirers of the beautiful and picturesque. Tradition
says that the first Spanish expedition to Paraguay passed more than twelve
months in exploring the long and tortuous course of the Parana, for
although the direct distance is only 1 ,000 miles, the way is rendered very
much longer by the necessity of crossing and re-crossing from one side
to the other. Certainly the adventurous settlers of the sixteenth century
were men of surpassing energy and perseverance. It is impossible for us
to form an idea of the hardships and dangers they must have gone through,
penetrating to the very centre' of the Continent to establish a metropolis
amid the woods and wilds of an unkno\in country. Such as they then
looked. upon these cliffs and islands they are to-day, for Nature, in her
simplest aud rudest garb, still holds undisputed sway in these silent
regions.
For thousands of ages this mighty river has flowed on to the sea,
and yet it is exactly the same as when first Creation dawned upon the
universe. The arts or science of man are nowhere visible for hundreds of
miles, and the various layers of soil forming the islands only show that
during numberless generations the stream has continu,ed to carry down its
deposits till they have risen above the surrounding flood, decked out in all
the charms of tropical Nature, with trees of various kinds, most of them,
probably, yet unknown to botanists. A thick jungle of marshy grass and
edtangled underwood, which almost defies the entranice of man, affords a
secure and favorite asylum for tigers, serpents, and alligators, except when
the current rises to the tops of the trees, and a broad sheet of water
stretches from either mainland to the opposite side. Then may hb seen
the tigers swimming across, with powerful strokes, perfectly heedless of
and unmoved by the rapid whirlpools. In many places the casual groupings
of foliage, broken here and there by lovely rivulets which tempt you to
follow their mysterious recesses, present a picture such as Salvator Rosa
or Claude Lorrain never saw even in fancy. It is a pity to think that
these islands are never to be turned to any purpose or defended against the
torrent, for the soil is so loose that it will hold no structu^..^j^gy^e bed of ale
. LA PAZ TO GOYA. 79
the stream has changed often, and some towns erected on its banks are now
almost inaccessible, so many islands intervene.
About twelve hours' sail from Parana is La Paz, near the borders of
Corrientes : the town is a poor place, but some leagues inland is a fine
estancia belonging to BIr. Haycroft, and managed by Dr. Gibbings. Leaving
La Paz, vie have the same general features already described. For some
distance the river spreads out to an amazing width, the coast being on each
side very low, and lined with timber. About twenty-five leagues above
La Paz we come to the mouth of the Arroyo Espinillo, which is the frontier
line between Entre Bios and Corrientes. On Captain Page's map it Is
marked Sarandi or Guayquiraro, which falls into the former : it is not
navigable. Again there is a number of these delightful islands, revelling
in all the beauty of tropical vegetation, with palmetto trees, and a plant
bearing golden leaves, easily mistaken for oranges. But what do we see
on the margin of the Gran Ghaco, in yonder island ? Some huts of palm
trees, scarce large enough to hold a man at full length. They are the
abode of some daring wood-cutters, undeterred by the tigers, which swarm
hereabout, or the distance from any trace of human life.* The savages of
the Chaco never come down here, as they have plenty of means to pursue
their occupations of hunting, fishing, or wood-cutting on the < Mainland.
Every few minutes we cross the river, which is here about a mile wide,
and very shallow. The coast of Corrientes is low, but well wooded, and
yonder is a little hut, elevated on poles, and with a tile roof, which
answers as the Capitania del Puerto for Esquina, this town being half a
league distant on the mainland.
Esquina is a well-built town, of t ,200 to 1 ,500 inhabitants, situate on an
eminence at a bend of the Biver Corrientes, near its confluence with the
Parana. It possesses a good church, public schools, juzgado, and other
edifices, extending along the crest of the hill for about a mile, njost of the
houses having azoteas, with wide verandahs for shelter against the rays of
an almost tropical sun. The surrounding country is remarkable for its
excellent pasture, and the inhabitants are wealthy cattle-breeders, sheep
being comparatively few. Mr. Hayes, the son of an American, is the only
foreign resident in the town. In the year 1838 Mr. Hayes's father killed a
serpent which measured twelve feet in length and fifteen inches in circum-
ference, and, on opening the monster, three hens, seemingly uninjured,
were found in its stomach : he sent the skin to the United States, where it
was stuffed, and is still to be seen. The bite of these reptiles is not fatal.
There is an abundance of tigers about here, and some years ago a washer-
woman was devoured near the river. The Custom-hogS||.^j]^yAduana^g
80 THE BIO DE LA PLATA.
a small wooden hut elevated on poles, ten feet above the stream, in an
island half a league distant from the town. Vessels call so rarely that
sometimes no ofiBcials visit the place for several days. It happened some
time back that a priest was left hereby the Paraguay steamer, and being
unable to thread his way through the thickets and cross the rivulets, he
resolved to pass the night here: some hungry tigers prowling about
smelled human flesh, and sacrilegiously resolved to make a meal of him.
The priest taking alarm scrambled up on the roof, and sat on the tiles until
daybreak. As there was no steamer expected to arrive, the usual
passenger boat did not come down the ' arroyo,' and one of the wild beasts
kept watch below, thinking the stranger might be driven by huuger to nm
the gauntlet and make towards town. In this manner the poor priest
passed two awful days and nights before he was relieved from his perilous
post. The Gran Ghaco continues on our left, in its savage grandeur, and
the scenery is much the same as we have passed, except that the thickets
have grown into forests, the trees lifting their massive branches to a great
height : they are mostly very straight and covered with a dark green or
light brown foliage. At intervals the sandy beach is strewn with withered
and uprooted trunks, highly useful for shipbuilding.
Six l^lgues above Esquina we pass Gosta Tala, where the stream attains
an enormous width. Garpinchos or sea hogs now show themselves on the
river-bank, disporting in the grass. Higher up on our left, a short
distance inland, are the ruins of two Jesuit missions, Concepcion and
S. Jeronimo, the second near a stream called Arroyo del Bey.
By daybreak we are in sight of Goya, where a hut stands on the edge of
an island, acting both as Gustom-house and landing place for passengers.
About the commencement of the present century, the site now occupied by
the town of Goya was a cattle farm occupied by a Portuguese whose wife
was named Gregoria, fomiliarly contracted into Goya. Here the ships
passing used to call' for beef, and the position was so favorable that the
Government resolved to build a town thereon. Goya is capital of the
riphest district in the province, and one of the finest towns on the Parana*
The houses are of brick, and the population exceeds three thousand,
including a large foreign element of Italians, Basques and French. The
plaza is very handsome, with a pyramid in the centre, fifty feet high, on
one side, and a church not yet fini^ed, of grand dimensions, the cost
being estimated at $150,000 s., contributed by local subscription. The
chief authority is a Gefe Politico, and there is also a Judge of 1 . ^ Instancia;
There are two priests, and seven doctors : Dr. Newkirk, a Canadian, is in
good practice. There are national free schools for both sexes. Most^fg
GOTA TO ^£LLA VISTA. 8t
the inhabitants are rich estancieroS. A public conyeyance is hired out^
for any part the traveller may wish to repair to. The country is thicUy
wooded in some parts, orange groves being numerous. There are two
English carpenters in Goya ; one of, them is called Don Pedro, and is one of
the oldest inhabitants . There is a Mr . Ramallon, native of Gibraltar. Both
of the priests are Italians. The Basques hav^ brick-kilns in the suburbs ;
and many of the houses are two stories high. The streets are twenty yards
wide. The police oflBce is a handsome building. The public cemetery,
about a mile distant, is well kept, with some fine monuments, and a hand-
some chapel. Such is the general prosperity of this industrious town that
the citizens of Corrientes jestingly term it «The little Buenos Ayres.» The
principal trade of the place consists in hides, wool, cheese, and oranges.
"Orange groves are frequent, but the business is diminishing, while the
excellent cheese is finding its way to the various ports <caguas abajo,)) a
large quantity being sent to Buenos Ayres. Cotton would grow well here,
the climate being warm and dry. Imports are received from Buenos
Ayres.
After a couple of leagues we pass a very picturesque locality, known as
Bincon de Soto. Here is a large saladero, surrounded by a number of hutsi,
and a fine bay admits vessels of some burthen to come close to the estab-
lishment. It was built by Mr. Holterhoff, who boaght the site from Govern-
ment for $t50. There is another saladero at work near Goya, belonging
to a Mr. Otto. Not far inwards, about two leagues from Goya, is the
ancient village of Santa Lucia, on a river of the same name : it was founded
by the Jesuits, who built a stone church (the finest in the province) where
the few neighbors still attend Divine service. A little further on is the
ground marked out for a new town, Pueblo Lavalle, but as yet there is only
a solitary house with an orange grove.
yfe now coast along the mainland of Corrientes, which presents an
elevation of perhaps 100 feet. The camps gradually become bare, and the
familiar ombil, in lonely grandeur, stands forth, the landmark of the
Pampas. We pass the <cembouchuresi> of several rivulets with Indian
names, none of which are navigable, although wide as European rivers,
with luxuriant vegetation overshadowing their banks. Next comes the
estancia of General Ferre, a tract of several leagues, which was granted to
him many years ago on condition of planting it with coffee : he tried and
failed, and then turned it into a cattle farm.
The red sandstone bluff now ahead of us is a place called Las Cuevas,
where the river at low tide is hardly a hundred yards Wide. The Para-
guayans erected a battery here in 1865, which inflicted serious injury on
82 THE RIO DE LA PLATA.
the Brazilian ironclads in forcing the pass. Here, in the year 1825, before
the neighboring town of Bella Vista was formed, lived in utter solitude a
Portuguese estanciero named Cueva, whose cattle tempted the rapacity of
theChaco Indians. A band of these deadly savages, on two occasions,
swam across the narrow )[)as8 and attacked his house. The fearless old
man and his son gave the Indians a galling reception from a skylight and
window, through which they fired as fast as the daughters could load the
blunderbusses, and thus succeeded in driving them off. During forty-
three years they have never ventured another foray : the house and olive
grove are distinctly seen from the river, crowning a headland, on doubling
which we have Bella Vista in the distance. And well does Bella Vista
merit its name, for the next hour's sail is one of the most delightful that
can be imagined. A chain of steep cliffs, cut by the torrent, is broken at
short and regular distances by numberless Assures caused by the rains.
Yonder is the orange grove of Mr. Henry Hall, with its dark green outline
against the horizon, and, as we approach, the files of trees are clearly
discernible.
Bella Vista, seated on a gentle slope, in the midst of tropical foliage, is
a most charming picture. It was first peopled by a settlement of convicts,
sent hither under General Ferre in 1826, It now contains about 1,000
inhabitants, having some azotea houses, a plaza, &c. Nestling in orange
groves and palm trees are several small huts, thrown as if by chance on the
hill-side, and commanding a grand view of the Parand and Gran Chaco.
The natives may not have inherited the propensities of their forefathers^
but, certes, they are wild-looking fellows. Bella Vista is eighteen leagues
above Goya. We see, a Uttle above the town, the scene of an attempted
cotton pjaatatipn, started here by some enterprising Americans in 1853.
Whether owing to a bad selection of soil, or mismanagement on the part of
the mayordomo, the undertaking failed and was abandoned. A native
.family now resides there, who pulled up all the cotton to substitute
oranges. We have to return two leagues to get the channel, and glide by
the Gran Ghaco. Now again islands, on which we can see carpinchos. We
are now 800 miles from Buenos Ayres, in the heart of South American
wilds. The river is still a majestic flood, two miles wide.
Passing Empedrado, which is hedf-way between Bella Vista and
Corrientes, we reach the mouth of the Riachuelo, famous for the great
naval battle fought here on 1 1th June, 1865, between the fleets of Paraguay
and Brazil. The former was much less than the latter in ships and weight
of metal, but was aided by a shore battery of forty guns. The struggle
lasted from daybreak till nightfall, and ended in the utter defeat^ ^the^Tp
igi ize y g
CITY OP CORBIENTES. SJT
Paraguayans, who, however, displayed great bravery : over 2,000 men
perished in the battle, the Paraguayans losing four steamers and the^
Brazilians having three vessels hors de combat. The vicinity of the
Riachuelo is ^aid to produce good tobacco; and now we come abreast of
Don Domingo Latorre's famous quinta, with its 5,000 orange trees, and^
picturesque «montes» of cypress, poplar, &c. This is distant from the capitalif
five leagues by land, but the windings of the river make it seveit. Nearer
to Corrientes is the quinta of the late ex-President Derqui, finely situated
on the river bank. At this place the Chaco looms tn the distance, with its
dark fringe of impenetrable forests, Very little of Corrientes can be seen
before landing, or passing «aguas arriba.))
Corrientes covers a plateau elevated sixty feet over the water level, so
that we can see little but the church-towers and the few irregular edifices
situate on the slope. On the extreme right is a graceful countryvhouse^
belonging to Dr. Vidal : a large shrubbery leads up to the door,- and a
corridor all around the house has an effect of comfort and elegance. The
line of beach is studded with dusky washerwomen, perfectly regardless of
the fact that the thermometer stands over ninety in the shade. There are
scattered fragments of a dark «tone, said to be very good for building,
though not much used ; it looks like tosca, but is hard as granite. Beyond
Vidal's quinta is a saladero, the present owner of which is a Correntino.
A tanning establishment and timber yard form the centre of our picture,
with the Custom-house, Casa de Gobiemo, several palm ranchos, and a
sprinkling of orange trees to fill up the whole, giving a strange and not
unpleasant aspect. Most of the houses have corridors, which cover in the
whole footpath, the windows being barred as in Buenos Ayres. No block
can be called complete, for palm ranchos and orange gardens • alternate
with tile roofs and azoteas. The streets are about fifty feet wide. The
plaza is much the same as it was three centuries ago : on the north side is
the Matriz or principal church, an old edifice eighty yards long, with a tile
roof, and at a short distance a bell tower, seventy feet high, in which is the
town clock. The west side contains the Cabildo, where the law courts and
prison are guarded by a bare-footed picquet of Federal troops of the Line..
In front are two antique houses, one of two stories, and the Merced Church,
Hot yet whitewashed, with two belfrys, and a cloister attached for Franciscan
friars. The house of Sefior Pampin, ex-Governor, with a few others of less
note, make up the south side, and a column some sixty feet high stands in
the centre of a multitude of weeds, around which are wooden posts but no
seats : the column is surmounted by a diminutive female armed with a
lance^ and bears the inscriptioas, 25 de Mayo 1810, and 9 de Julf o 1816.
g2 ^
84 THE RIO DE Lk PLATA.
On the pedestal are the busts of four generals. The Gabildo is a handsome
structure, two stories with arches, supporting a square tower of Moorish
build, which commands a view of the country around. At the Hotel Globe
we can procure a clean, airy apartment wherein to take «siesta.)) The
windows are of stained glass, with Venetian blinds. The cuisine is faultless
for those who are not squeamish about garlic. The city forms a parallelo-
gram of sixty or seventy cuadras, but is wholly different from anything
European. There are about 1,500 palm ranclios, 200 tile roofs, and 100
azoteasof one or two stories ; also, four steeples, three miradores, six flag-
staffs, a few slender palms, and an infinity of orange trees, amid which the
houses seem to nestle for protection from the sun. Gorrientes is distant
270 leagues, or 900 English miles, from Buenos Ayres.
On leaving Gorrientes we can distinctly count the seven currents, which
give the city its name ; they are formed by as many projecting points of
land, above a place called La Bateria, a little north of the town. We now
approach the Tres Bocas, the confluence of the rivers Paraguay and Upper
Parang. The scenery about here is very fine. The Parand turns off at a
right angle, eastward, and is navigable for steamers as higb as the island
and Mis of Apip^. At the Paso la Patria is a ferry for carrying over cattle
into Paraguay, and the woods on the Gorrientes shore were the scene of
some hard fighting in January 1866/ Nearly opposite stood the Paraguayan
fort of Itapiru, which formerly commanded the navigintion of these waters :
it was destroyed by the Brazilians in April 1866. Higher up on the
Gorrientes bank are the. villages of San Gosmo, ttati, San Antonio, and
Loreto ; near this last is a ford called Tranquera de Loreto. On the Para-
guayan shore the ground is low, marshy, and uninhabited. At Itapua the
river gives another bend, almost due north, and this is the point where the
Paraguayans invaded Misiones, in May 1865, previous to their descent on
Rio Grande. Opposite to Itapua is the Paraguayan station called Gandelaria. t
The Parana may. still be ascended in small boats as high as the great cataract
of Salto de Guayra; but this part of the country is comparatively unexplored.
The ruins of a town called Giudad Real are still seen near the falls : from
this point to the Tres Bocas is a distance of about 500 miles.
Entering the Paraguay river at the Tres Bocas, we pass the Xjruardia
Cerrito, where the Paraguayans had a battery, and in a few hours we reach
Gurupaity, where the Allies sustained a great reverse on the 22nd of
September 1866. Every inch of ground was here disputed with immense
sacrifice of life during more than two years, till the Paraguayans finally
abandoned Humaytd in July 1868. A bend of the river reyeala |^K§dl^Qlc
formidable position, which was defended by casemated batteries, torpedoes,^
HUMATTl TO ASDBGION. •SS
and chains across the river. Tliis place was the key to the upper rivers,
and the garrison, before the war, usually numbered 12,000 men: the
fortress was constructed by French engineers in ftsi, under the regime of
the first Lopez.
A little above Hamaita, on the Ghaco side, we come to the mouth of the
Rio Vermejo, which is about 300 yards wide, and bordered by a dense
thicket. Some of the Chaco Indians may often be seen about here,
paring fish.
Villa Pilar is a pretty little town, with numerous orange-groves and a
handsome church, about a mile from the shore. It is the chief town of a
district which shewed a census-return of 160,000 inhabitants. Under the
rule of Francia it was the commercial emporium of Paraguay, the ^ty of
Asuncion being shut to all foreigners.
An hour's sail takes us to the mouth of the Tebicuari, a large river
which rises in the Yerbales or mdte^&elds of Misiones, and after a course
of 400 miles falls into the Paraguay at this place. Just before the
war President Lopez had sent to Europe for two light steamers to navigate
the Tebiquary.
Villa Franca is a village of no importance : the surrounding district has
only 10,000 inhabitants. *
Villa Oliva is another small place, with a church and public schools :
here the steamers often take beef and firewood. And now we may observe
shoals of alligators on either bank : sometimes as many as a dozen basking
together in the sun, a few measuring seven or eight feet in length. They
lie motionless, like a log of wood, «f ith their jaws extended shewing two
alarming rows of teeth. The body is scaly like a tortoise, with fbur
short fin-like legs, and they glide into the water with great ease.
Garpinchos may be seen in close proximity, apparently on good terms
with the «Yacares,)> for this South American crocodile confines his
tastes to fish.
Villeta is a difficult pass of the river, about seven leagues below
Asuncion. At times the water is so low that no vessels drawing over
eighteen inches can pass. ,The banks on the Paraguayan side rise as we
proceed up stream, and the Paraguayans used to have a battery of a few
guns commanding a bend of the river. The scenery is very diversified
and tranquil, with stately palm-trees that stand forth at intervals to remind
us of the tropics.
The peak of Lambare is enchanting, with its cone-like elevation clad in
luxuriant foliage, raising its lofty form to the clouds.^ The adjacent village
:d6
THE RIO DE LA PLATA.
of Lambar6 is a suburb to the capital, remarkable for its church and
cemetery. ^
On the left bank is the mouth of the PUcomayo, which ifises in Bolivia,
near the city of Chuquisaca, traverses the Gran Ghaco, and after a course
of 1 ,500 miles, here fills into the Paraguay.
There are two batteries at the turn before we get view of the arsenal
and city of Asuncion.
Asuncion, the Paraguayan metropolis, is a town of some 30,000
inhabitants ; it was founded by a Spanish captain named Ayolas, on August
15, 1536. There are some splendid public buildings, and excellent hotel
accommodation is found at the Club. The shops are poor, and all imported
articles very dear. The railway to Villa Rica runs through a country
unsurpassed for scenery. The traveller will find many delightful rides in
the environs of Asuncion, and he should take a bath before sunrise at the
Chorro. A description of the city and people will be given at full in the
liecti'on of this work devoted to Paraguay.
Ascending the river to Matto Grosso, the first place beyond Asuncion is '
Villa Occidental, on the Chaco side, where a French colony was established
hj Lopez, but resulted unfortunately. We next pass the towns of Rosario
and San Pedro, and the mouths of the Confuse, Jejuy, and Ypape rivers,
arriving at Concepcion, 180 miles from Asuncion. The depth of the river
varies from twenty to seventy feet, its width being from half a mile to a
mile, and the banks usually about fifteen feet high. Concepcion is a tovm
jot 2,000 inhabitants, and the great port of the yerba-mAte trade.
Salvador is seventy miles above Concepcion, and has a population of
1,000 souls. From Salvador to Rio Appa is nearly 100 miles, the scenery
leing very beautiful near the ranges of Itapucu Guazti, and the country
inhabited by warlike Indians. Here begins the disputed territory, which
extends eighty miles north, as far as Rio Blanco, and is claimed by both
Brazil and Paraguay on account of the impoitant position of Fort Olympo.
Fort Olympo is 420 miles above Asuncion, standing 45 feet above the
river, which is here 600 yards wide : it forms a square of 100 feet, with'
bastions for cannon, the walls being fourteen feet high and two and a-half
thick, without embrasures. It was built by the Spaniards in 1798,
garrisoned by Francia in 1822, abandoned by Lopez in 1850, again occupied
in 1856, and afterwards seized in turns by Brazil and Paraguay. Before
reaching Olympo is the picturesque mountain called Pan-de-azucar, and
live miles above the fort is Bahia Blanca, at the mouth of the Rio Blanco.
We enter BrazUian territory at Salinas, and here the left bank is claimed^!
"by Bolivia, while the right forms part of the ivovince of Matto Grosso. S
ASUHGION 10 CUYAMk. B7
Fort Goimbra, in Lat. 19.55.43, and Long.^ 57.5^.32, dtwds on a hill of
the same name, w^ich slopes to the river : it is forty feet aboYO the water
level, and is a solid stone strncture, completely commanding the river which
is here 600 yards wide. The officers' quarters within the fort consist of
small stone houses. All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the
neighbouring Indians. The low lands for some distance above Goimbra
are subject to inundation, but there are also some pieces of firm land,
covered with excellent woods and never overflowed except in seasons of
extraordinary rise. The mountains are still insulated peaks or short
ranges, probably spurs of the Bolivian sierras. The surrounding country
is held by the Quay cur li Indians, whom the Brazilian Government treats
with much conciliation. Goimbra is thirty-three miles above Fort Olympo.
Albuquerque is an insignificant village of seventy houses, only useful
for supplies of provisions, and 47 miles from Goimbra. Passing the mouth
of the Tacuari we reach Gorumbd, sixty miles from Albuquerque, and 560
from Asuncion. This place sprung into importance with the introduction
x>t steam traffic : it produces some good cotton.
From Gurumbd to Guyab^ is nearly 400 miles, the course changing in
Lat. 18, Long. 57.30, from the upper Paraguay to the river Guyabd. The
city of GuyabA is capital of the province of Matto Grosso, residence, of the
President, Bishop, and other Brazilian functionaries, and a place of much
importance. This is the bluest point navigable in a steamer. Gaptain
Bossi, in 1862, attempted to crossover to the head-waters of tl^e Amaz«as,
but failed. The distance overland to Rio Jaheyro is 1 200 miles, practicable
on mules in about sixty days, but much infested by Indians, passing through
a country of woods and mountains. The early Spaniards are known to
have made the journey. A Brazilian expeditionary force left Bio
Janeyro in 1865 ; most of the men perished on the route, the rest deserted
to the woods.
UP THE URUGUAY. *
The scenery of the Uruguay is the finest in these countries, and there
is almost daily communication between Buenos Ayres and Salto: the
steamers are elegant and commodious, and make the trip in 36 hours.
As we cross the La Plata to ascend the Uruguay, the fine estancias of
Martin Ghico and San Juan are pointed out to the traveller; they are
beautifully situated, and must some day become immensely valuable.
Passing the Gerro San Juan we sight the island of Martin Garcia, the
flibraltar of the River Plate, which has anything but an imposing
•appearance. Two new fartifications are seen on the S. £. point, but there
'^'^ Digitizef by ' ^
88 tBB RIOi 9£ LA PLATJL.
are no guns (HI them. Tactng the Ai^entine coast is a battery o^ nine <
guns, with soldiers' quarters. The place almost looks deserted^ aod the
old batteries used ia the war of 1 859 are dismantled. Bet ween the Idatid
and the Oriental coast only small craft can pass. The Argentine Congress
in 1867 voted a considerable sum for the fortification of the island. In the
time of Bosas many of the prisoners confined here escaped by swimming
a grey mare over to the mainland of Banda Oriental, the mare regularly
swimming back again^ till Bosas took her and shot her as an enemy to
the State.
Garmelo is the first town we sight and looks very pretty, seated on a
bend of the river, but a good view is not obtained till we pass upwards. A
small steamer calls here in connection with Golonia or Higueritas. The
next thing we see is an old convent now used for an estancia-house«
The scenery improves as we advance, the Enlre^Biano coast being much
lower than the Oriental.
Nueva Palmira or Higueritas is on the eastern bank ; it is a small place^
and has few attractions, except that it offers a convenient landing-place
for passengers for the interior. There is a * graseria,' for melting down
sheep, belonging to Mr. Henry Zimmermaan.
At the mouth of the Bio Negro the scenery is interesting : here a small
steamer meets us to take the passengers for Mercedes. Higher up we
meet the Gualegnaychil ' steamer, forming another branch-line of the
Irnguay service.
As we proceed up the river the nature of the last great geolo^cal
changes, that have occurred in this valley, becomes apparent from the
facts noticeable. The Argentine side of the river is generally low, often
marshy, as if recently redeemed from a deep lake, while the Uruguayan
fiide is generally high and rocky. Along the bold rocky border of that
old, immense lake, the waters were drained, and, washing the base of the
bluff on its eastern border, at length formed the Biver Uruguay. On the
Uruguayan shore the bed of the river is generally of granitic rocks, the
ehannel is deeper, and, from the more solid formation, the ports are better.
The rocks are chiefly granite, though in some parts, as for example near
Salto, the action of the fire is more marked, and quartz is seen under all
the modification made upon it by heating and cooling, and by slight
admixtures of other rocks. In the mterior of the country, *geodes'
are found in great abundance and of great beauty of structure. In the
streams and along the rocky coasts, the sand is richly interspersed with
pebbles of cornelian, i^ate, chalcedony, onyx, and jasper, all more or less
pure, and some of them of great beauty. There is, probably, but one place
BUEHOB iLTKBS TO PJ^rSAlfDl). 89
where sueh pebUes are sa flkmdoiit, or sa beaiitlfal, or so large, and that
is at St. Anthony on the Mississippi riyer.
Fray Bentos is a new town on the same side of the river, containing
about 1,000 inhabitants. It is called sixty leagues from Buenos Ayres: it
is not attractive to the traveller, who only beholds it from the deck of the
steamer, but is said to be a place of considerable business. It is chiefly
noteworthy for the famous Liebig Extractum Garnis Factory, under the
direction of Hr. Giebcrt, which was established in 1864, at a cost
of £200,000. It give* constant employment to 600 or 800 persons,
and can kill 500 head of cattle per day. The machinery was made
in Glasgow, and cost £45,000: it is the most complete and elaborate
that can be imagined. The beef extract is made up in boxes of \00%
each, for shipment to Europe, where it is sold at £1 sterling per U weighty
ehiefly for hospital use.
Roman is the name of a landing place, and also of a saladero near it,
about seventy leagues from Bnenos Ayres. The saladero is owned by Don
Felipe Iglesias, and the town is little else than a group of irregularly built
holies to accommodate the workmen.
- It is. usually midnight when the steamer calk at Concepcion, the chief
town of Entre Rios, which we shall visit on our return down the river. By
daybreak we are at anchor in the port of Paysandti.
Paysandil, eighty leagues firom Buenos Ayres, contained before the civil
war in that country 7,700 inhabitants. So great has been the activity of
boinness, since the restoration of peace, that it is believed that the
population now exceeds^ 1 0,000. New houses are going up in all directions^
and these are of a better dasa than the old ranchos battered down in the
' b(Hnbardment. In the Department of Paysandtl are five saladeros, two of
these are in the city, one at Gasa Blanca, one at Roman, and one at Fray
Bentos. At each of these there are killed annually 40,000 to 50,000
anhnals, making from this department 200,000 to 250,000 animals in the
year. The beef is salted and dried in thin, large dices, and it finds a
market in Brazil and the West Indies. Hides are salted and go to Europe,
<^efly to Antwerp and Liverpool, and the tallow goes by cargoes, in pipes,
to England. There are no manufactories in Paysandii but sundry stores, and
shops of shoemakers, tailors, waggon-makers, blacksmiths, &c. Hotels, La
Paz and La Francia ; charge, $li per day. Labor is dear both for house and
farm service, the poorest laborer receiving, at the lowest, $16s. per month.
And so rapid is the increase of population by immigration that all kinds of
marketing ' are as detfr as at Buenos Ayres. Don Miguel Horta, the
principal shopkoeper, is Spanish vice-consul, and his house is^the
90 THE RIO DE Lk PLATA.
rendezvous of all English estancieros. Some pleasant excursions majbe
made to the neighboring estancias of Gol. Mundell, Plowes, Hughes, Greeh^
and Bell, to the saladero at Arroyo Negro, to Messrs. Paris and Sloper's
beef-packing establishment, to William's saladero, and by boat to the
Swiss colony across the Uruguay.
From Paysandd to Salto is the finest part of the river : the scenery is
varied and beautiful. A league above the town is Mr. William's saladero^
where they tried «the Morgan system,)) in 1866, with beef and mutton.
At the Hervidero we pass a large establishment belonging to Mr. Richard
Hughes, with the Union Jack flying from the battlements : it is a two-story
house built over twenty years ago by a Company, of which Mr. Lafone
formed part, and had a saladero, now in ruins, and an estancia with over
100,000 cows and sheep. The Mesa de Artigas is a bold headland just
over the river. Here General Artigas encamped his army in the War of
Independence, and traditi6n says he threw his Spanish prisoners hence,
sewed up in hides, into the river. After passing the estancia Delicias and
other valuable establishments belonging to foreigners, we reach the
dangerous pass of Gorralitos. This reef or archipelago of rocks has but
one narrow and tortuous channel, and is impassable by night. Sailing
vessels cannot pass but with the most favorable wind, and we see coasting
. craft at anchor in front of the old port of Concordia, which is nearly a
league below that town. In high water the Gorralitos are covered, but
often the river is so low that the buoys are high and dry. You cannot see
Concordia from here, but there is a (ccasilla)» at the new port, and coaches are
in waiting to convey passengers to the town. We have now a fine view
of Salto at the head of the river, about three miles above, covering three
or four hills, with large white edifices, and apparently a town of
great extent.
Salto (Hotel Concordia) is 110 leagues from Buenos Ayres : it is a very
flourishing place, with 9,000 inhabitants, one half of whom are Italians.
The town has a bustling aspect, new buildings going up on all sides*
The view is very picturesque in every direction. The city stretches out
much to the north, the new town laid out by Mr. Coleman being already
thickly settled. The situation is x^harming, the Uruguay bathing the
declivities of the * cuchillas ' which run down in almost parallel lines, the
white buildings studding the hill-sides, and clumps of brushwood
fringing the outskirts. It is the headquarters of all frontier traffic to Rio
Grande and Corrientes, and the Brazilian Government is in treaty with a
London firm for a railway to Uruguayana and Sati Borja. The Salto Chico
is about a mile above the town, and sometimes quite dry: the Salto Grande
SALTO TO UEUGUAYAiTA. 9t
higher up is a barrier to navigation in almost all periods. On the east side
of the Pkza Is the church, an unpretending structure with two towers,
one of which has a town-clock (the weights are of sand) : inside, it is quite
bare, and can hardly hold 800 persons. Next door is the Curia, a fine
house with ornamental front. On the south side stands the G)mandancia,
imitation of Grecian architecture, and a few yards off is the Imprenta,
from which issues, twice a week, the Eco de los Libres. Some of the public
works are a decided failure, viz., the wharf of granite which has already
cost 60,000 hard dollars, and can never be of use except in extraordinary
high tides, whereas an iron mole might have been run out into the river at
a cost of 40,000. A little below the town is a tan yard, and further down
was the Brazilian encampment in 1865. Salto is reputed a very healthy
place, the only epidemic ever known being small-pox. The water here,
as in all other parts of the Uruguay, has a mellifluous taste. Mr. Richard
Williams, one of the oldest British residents in the River Plate, has a
handsome residence, commanding a view of the Uruguay, and Concordia
on the opposite bank. He has a fine collection of pebbles and crystal-
lizations : these stones come from the Cerro de Catalanes near the river
Cuareim, where agate is found in abundance, and some collections have
been sent to England, and appreciated by lapidaries A German explorer
with a number of workmen collected quite a cargo, but died when about
to return to Europe. There are not many English estancias, excepting
those of Mr. Williams, near Salto.
In times of very high water, a steamer (drawing three feet) goes up
the falls to Uruguayana : the distance is about 150 miles, and the scenery
well repays the journey.
After passing the flails w6 coast alternately the shores of Entre Rios and
Banda Oriental, on both of which there are many large cattle estancias.
Scmie leagues above Concordia is the Arroyo Yuqueri, where Gen. Mitre
established his headquarters when the Paraguayan war first broke out. A
range of hills called Puntas de Mandisobi, twelve leagues from Concordia^
was subsequently Gen. Flores's rendezvous before the battle of Tatay.
Not far hence is the village of Federacion, and nearly opposite, in Banda
Oriental, is another, called Constitucion.
A stream debouching on our left, called the Mocoretd, is the frontier line
between Entre Rios and Corrientes ; and ten leagues higher, ontheright,
we conie to Santa Rosa, at the frontier of the Brazilian province of Rio
Grande : this place is thirty leagues above Salto, and has vis-a-vis the
Correntino village of Monte-Caseros. (ToOQle
Twenty leagues further is the important town of Uru|u%1&iii, al a jwia^
92 THE HK> DE LA VULTJL.
of the river, called Pa^ de los Libres. A line of diiigeaoes formerly ran
from this place to Concordia, and another on the Brazilian side, from
Uruguay ana to Salto. At present railways are projected, one on each
side of the river, as the falls at Salto are a bar to all commerce by water.
Uruguayana was founded in t8i3, and was a thriving frontier town
previous to the war ; it had about 10,000 inhabit^ints : it was the centre
of the trade of this part of Rio Grand2. In 1865 the Paraguayans took it
and held it for some time, till the allied generals closely invested the place,
and the Paraguayan commander surrendered to Dom Pedro in person. The
town was found to be in a dreadful condition ; but it is now fast recovering
its prosperity. The Uruguay is here half-a-mile across.
Twenty leagues higher up is the Correntino village of La Cruz, and two
leagues further, on the Brazilian shore, stands the town of Itaqui, which
was also taken by the Paraguayans in their descent on Rio Grande. A
battle occurred near a rapid river above the town, in which the Brazilians
were worsted, obliging them to abandon Itaqui.
Twenty-five leagiies further on, are the towns of Santo Tom^ and San
Borja. The former is in Lat. 28.20, and Long. 58.10. : it is the chief town
of the Misiones of Aguapey (Corrientes). Exactly opposite is San Borja
(Bio Grande) : th^ country around is rich and populous. ' The distance
across Hisiones, to Itapua on the Upper Parana, is 38. leagues.
We have now ascended 100 leagues firom Salto, and the traveller may
still continue his explorations in Misiones. The r^urn voyage from. Sim
Borja to Salto will occupy a day and a-half .
If we cross the Uruguay rivet below the. falls from the eastern to the
western side, we shall find Concordia, an Argentine city of the province
of Entre Bios, and nearly opposite Salto. The present war, daring the
mcmths when Concordia was the headquarters of the army, added greatly
to the business and wealth of the city. There is at Concordia one saladero
which uses about 50,000 animals ib the 'faena' (cattle and horses). This
is the property of A. Benites and Co. : the city counts about d;000
inhabitants, and is a place of considerable business. Bents and wages
are high, and good houses are not easily found to rent.
Colonia de San Jose, twenty-four leagues below Concordia, is a colony of
Swiss and German immigrants^ numbering about ^,500 persons. The town
itself is only the few houses needed at the landing, for the people are
agriculturists, raising wheat, maize, potatoes, &c.
Concepcion del Uruguay, nine leagues lower down the river, is at
present the capital of the province of Entre Rios. The anchorage of
steamers is near the shore, but the landing is so teff^ ^^^1 ^^^ the^city as
THE SAL ADO AND VERMBJO. 93
to leave but little opportunity to see the town from the steamer. There
are said to be 5,000 inhabitants. The princely residence of General
Urquiza is seven leagues distant, at San Jos£. At Goncepcion are two
saladeros, but there are no manufactories.
The possessions of General Urquiza are immense. One-third part of
the land of the province is called his. From the River Gualeguaychtl
to Victoria, eighty leagues, you may not go off tlie lands of the Captain
General. The annual product from so mudi land, stocked with cattle,
horses, and sheep, must be very great.
THE SALADO AND VERMEJO.
These two rivers belong to the Gran Chaco territory, and are generally
considered navigable, although many obstacles have been met with in the
expeditions sent for their exploration.
The Bio Salado rises in the upper provinces, passes through Santiago del
Estero, and falls into the Parana just above Santa F6 city. A Spanish
gentleman named Esteban Rams Rupert devoted many years and a large
amount of money to the scheme of canalising this river. His first expedi-
tion was at the dose of 1862, and he narrates it in these words —
<(We left the Colony of Esperanza on the 31st December, in the directicm
6f Goncepcion del Tio, in the Province of Cordova : from this point we
followed the road called De las Tropas, due north, until arriving at the
town of Salavina, in Santiago. Then, striking out east, we reached Fort
Bracho, on the banks of the Salado, on the 19th January. The engineer at
once began his survey of the river, from Navicha to the Boca de Matard,
lirhich, along with the marshes, covers a superficies fifteen leagues in
length by three or four in breadth. This is the only part of the river
requiring heavy works to make the navigation clear, to Sepulturas. The
engineer's reports, confirming and amplifying previous ones, are already
nearly complete. The annual rise this time came as high as the Boca de
Hatard, on the night of the 30th December, and when I arrived at Matard,
on the 23rd January, 1 found the river in front of this place fifteen feet deep
for a width of eighty-tWo feet. 1 left a meter there, in charge of the
commander, and on my return on the 4th of February found that the water
had, in. the interval, suffered a maximum rise of four inches, and fell of
four and a-half inches, making thus a difference of half an inch in twelve
days, and its actual depth being fifteen feet and nine inches. This shows
there is plenty of water to navigate the Salado, the sole difficulty being to
run a canal from, Boca.de MatarA to I^avicha, a distance of fifteen leagues,
as there is not the least obstacle between Navicha and Santa F6. The
ik
94 THE RIO DE LA PLATA.
levels taken prove the possibility, nay, the facility, of avoiding the
marshes, and conveying the whole current down to Navicha.))
Baron Mau^ provided funds, pending the formation of a company in
England, and Mr. W. H. Cock began the works in 1863. The Baron^
however, fbund it impossible to get up the company, owing to the Flores
revolution of April 1864, and, after a year (December 1864), Mr. Cock
received orders to suspend operations: his report on the works is as
follows :- —
«The Cauce Vie jo (old bed), whose course was hardly known before my
arrival here, owing to its frequent windings through impenetrable thickets,
is now quite cleared of trees from Bracho Vie jo (La Fragua) as far as two
leagues beyond Navicha, a distance of fifteen leagues, now rendered quite
navigable, all the old roots and trees being completely removed. The rest
only requires a few workmen, for a couple of months, to render it fit for
navigation, by burning the trunks and boughs felled on the banks, which
are now so dry as easily to ignite. Beyond Navicha (except two leagues,
which I have already said are clear) there is little wanting to be dohe, and
with the staff of navvies under my orders I could have finished it by the
end of February— so that the Rio Salado would have possessed a continuous
eanal flree from all obstacles, and requiring no further works, to permit the
passage of a small steamer as high up as Bracho Yiejo. A little canal,
eighteen feet wide (six and a-half varas) has also been opened from the
Lagunas del Bracho to the bed of the river, with the view of giving the
river an additional flow of water, and draining the marshes so as to be
enabled to commence the canalization works across the Estero del Bracho
some months earlier than usual. During my stay in this place I have
devoted all my attention to a careful study of the various projects feasible
for making a canal through the Estero del Bracho to the Boca de Matard :
my assistant Mr. Charles Albeck has also been busy in taking levels land
drawing plans for the same purpose. I now possess all the necessary data
for this important section of the works, so as on finishing the plans, to be
able to point out the best and most economical route for the canal.)) .
But Mr. Bams never despaired : he contrived to carry on the work in a
small way, and in July 1865 he obtained from Congress a renewal of his
concession, for three years longer, to date from December 31 , 1866. The
Ctovernment was to establish a port at any suitable point between Navicha
and Bracho, guaranteeing Bams nine per cent, on the outlay of the
enterprise, and allowing him an exemption from half-export duties during
thirty years.
In March 1866 he obtained a concession from the Santa FS Government,
' Digitized* by .
NAVIGATION OF THE SALADO. 95
for the introduction of 5,000 immigrant flamilie's to be settled along the
Rio Salado ; the Government giving ^im a square league of land for every
four families.
Mr. Bams had some iron lighters buUt by 3Ia(shal of Barracas, and was
almost ready to start for the Salado, when he was cut off by cholera, in
April 1867. The enterprise, however, was not suffered to fall through,
but in the following month Mr. Seftorans started from Buenos Ayres.
After a voyage of three months and a-half he returned to Santa F6 with
his expedition, having nothing to lament except the death of a young man
named Piran. The expedition reached a point some hundred and eighty
miles above Monte Aguard, at which latter place the Biver Salado takes a
great bend to the west, just before entering into the province of Santiago
del Estero. Mr. Seftorans thus examined and went over that part of the
river which Captain Page was unable to explore, owing to his steamer
drawing too much water. The river, during the whole time .occupied by
the expedition, was pretty high — sixteen feet of water often being found,
so that the theory of the navigation of the Salado by small steamers towing
«chata8)) was thus fully established, and even if this navigation be only
practicable during six or seven months of the year, it is still of the very
greatest importance, as it will facilitate the settlement of the lands on
either side of the river. Mr. Seftorans was successful in gaining the good
will of the various tribes of Indians on his route. All the caciques of the
river came to visit him, and he made treaties with many of them. The
principal cacique, Mariano, was not seen, as he lives a considerable way in
the interior, but about a dozen other chiefs presented themselves, accom-
panied by a vast number of their people. It appears that about Monte
Aguar& the Indian tribes are much more numerous than it has generally
been supposed. Mr. Seftorans took with him a large quantity of presents,
and distributed them very liberally — clothes being given to almost all.
They were very much afflicted to hedr that their old friend and ' padrino,'
Mr., Bams, was dead. They all asked for his portrait, and brought up
children by the score, whom they stated Mr. Bams was god-father to. A
good trade can be made with these various tribes of Indians, and it is
probable many of them could be made useful in cutting timber.
The expedition reached Fortin Taboada without any difficulty, land might
have proceeded further on, but much time had already been expended, and
provisions were running short, as they had not calculated on the
necessity of furnishing food to the large numbers of Indians who conti^
Dually accompanied the expedition. The reason of this, equivocal guard
of honor was probably two-fold — first, curiosity and greec^ i??ef i?®^^^^^*5lc
96 THE RIO DE L4 PLATA.
suspicion of the whites and of their objects. They could tot understand
why all the people of the steamers invariably attended divine service foully
armed. They said that the Padres never did it. There was evidently
anything but good will at first, but it appears that Mr. Seflorans at last
insinuated himself into their confidence, and gained their friendship.
Although plenty of water was always found, the sharp turns of the river
impeded the navigation to a large extent. Then the delays of cutting
wood, and the conferences with the Indians, caused a vast time to be lost.
Once thoroughly established, the navigation, with wood ready cut at stated
points, the steamers can run up to Fortin Taboada in six or seven days.
It is stated that the timber on the river is very abundant, and of a
valuable quality. The <cchatas» returned loaded with various kinds , amongst
which are specimens of excellent ebony. Two young Englishmen who
accompanied the expedition returned well and hearty.
Mr. Sefiorans encoiptered in one place a number of dead men. He
buried them decently. It was supposed that they belonged to "the Salta
contingent that mutinied in the Parana and fled intx) the 'Ghaco. As
nothing was ever heard of them it is probable they all perished either by
hunger or by the Indians.
Since the return of this expedition (September 1867) no other has gone
np the Salado, and it. may be presumed that no efforts for its further
navigation will be made till the termination of the Paraguayan war.
The Rio Vermejo rises in Bolivia, and, after a tortuous course of 1 ,200
miles through the forests of the Ghaco, falls into the River Paraguay near
the fortress of Humayt^. The. first expedition to navigate its waters was
in 1826, when some Englishmen and Buenos Ayreans Successfully descended
the river: they were, however, taken prisoners by Francia, tyrant of
Paraguay, and kept in captivity for many years. In 1856, Jose Maria Arce,
a Bolivian, accompanied by an Irish sailor named William Martin, safely
descended from Oran to Corrientes. Sefior Arce made four voyages after-
wards, the last in November 1863, on this occasion losing two men, killed
by Indians. He brought 130 tons cargo and 10 passengers, including his
brother, Dr. Arce (with two secretaries), who had credentials from the
Bolivian Government as Minister Plenipotentiary to the Argentine and Para-
guayan cabinets: his principal business being \fl make treaties for the
navigation of the Pilcomayo. President Lopez would not make any treaty
on the subject, as he declared the Vermejo and Pilcomayo belonged exclu-
sively to Paraguay. Arce, in his last voyage, found the Vermejo nowhere
less than five feet deep, his vessels drawing only twenty-seven inches ; but,
in many places the boughs of trees obstructed the^ navigation. PO^^^
I
NAVIGATION OT tHE VBHMEJO. 97
la February 1863, Lavarello's expedition started from Buenos, Ayres,
onboard the steamer Gran Chaco. After some delays to repair she at last
entered the River Vermejo on April 18th. One of the party writes as
follows : —
«Our progress was very slow, for several reasons. We were obliged
to stop rather more than half the time for the purpose of cutting and
loading wood for fc^el. The course of the river changes five or six times
every league, so that Captain Lavarello reckons one thousand bends from
Esquina Grande to the mouth of the Vermejo. 6wing to this tortuous
course, and the danger of missing the channel at night, added to the strong
currents of the river, and the small power of the engine, we could only
navigate by daylight, and came to anchor early every eVening. We were
soon delayed several days by heavy rains, preventing the crew from cutting
wood, and causing nearly all on board, officers and men, to fall sick of a
tercian fever or ' chucho,' induced by moisture and exposure. The
steamer was^ converted into a hospital, and from lack of medical
knowledge many suffered severely and for several weeks. Of thirty
persons on board, more than twenty were sick at once, and we were
detained more than twenty days from lack of hands to man the vessel.
At last our provisions became exhausted, one article after another, so that
we should actually have suffered from hunger, had we not succeeded
occasionally in obtaining a sheep, a kid, or a pair of chickens, from the
Indians. The Indians also rendered us most essential services by assisting
us to cut and load wood, and by hauling us loose, with ropes, when we
occasionally became stuck upon sand banks. We saw great numbers
of Indians, tliirty or forty different bands, in number ranging from ten or
twenty up to one hundred . »
At last they reached Rivadavia colony in July, and the expedition
returned to Buenos Ayres early in 1 864. Just then President Lopez sent
to Europe for two small steamers, to navigate the Vermejo and Pilcomayo, .
but the war soon after ensuing the enterprise was prevented.
At present (November 1868), there is a petition before Congress from
Messrs. Lezica and Lanuz, in connection with the Vermejo, which they
propose to open to navigation as soon as the war terminates.
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98 ITIREBARIES OP THE REPUBLIC.
CHAP. VIlI
ITINERABIES OF THE REPUBLIC.
The highways of the Argentine Republic are pretty much as Nature made
them, consisting merely of a beaten track across the Pampas. They were
formerly much better as regards post-houses and relays of horses than at
present. General Urquiza devoted much attention to this matter; but
since the Paraguayan war the Indians have made such frequent incursions
that the overland route from Rosario to Chile, or the upper provinces, is
attended with much inconvenience, for want of horses at the post-houses
along the road^.
In the Province of Buenos Ayres the Northern, Western, and Southern
railways offer speedy and commodious transit, in connection with
<cdiligences» ramifying the campana in all directions. In Entre Rios there
is also easy communication by the river steamboats, and a regular line of
«diligences.» In Corrientes there is no other way of travelling in the
interior but on horseback.
The Central Argentine Railway, from Rosario to Villa Nueva, is the great
highway to the upper provinces. At Villa Nueva two main routes strike
out north and west ; the first goes to Cordoba, Santiago, Tucuman, and
Salta ; the second to San Luis, Mendoza, and San Juan. The railway from
Bosario to Cordoba will be 247 miles long when finished : at present the
section open to traffic, tb Villa Nueva, is about 170 miles. The first thirty-
three miles from Rosario are slightly undulating and destitute of timber^
till we approach the English settlement of Frayle Muerto, when the <;ountry
assumes a wooded aspect, with picturesque park vistas and an abundance
of algarroba and other fine trees. The line crosses two rivers; the
Carcarafi^, about ten leagues from Rosario, and the Tercero, about twenty-
three leagues further. (This route will be described at length in the
chapter on the Central Argentine Railway). ^'^'^''"^ ^^ ^^^o
TO TUCUMAK AND 9ALTA.
99
TiORTHER5 ROUTE,
The «diligences)) from Villa Nueva to Salta traverse a route of 21^
leagues, the number of days employed varying, according to the weather,
the state of the roads, post-houses, horses, &c. The itinerary is as follows,
in Spanish leagues : —
VUlaNueva,^
.. 31
Machani, . . . ,
.... 2i
Tio Pugio,
4
Alpapuja, • . .
2i
Chaftares,
.. 2i
ManoGasla,.,.
.... 2i
Espinillo,
.. 2i
Cardoso, . . . ,
.... 3f
Desgraciado,
.. 2i
Santiago, . . .
2i
Uncativo, ....
5
BellaVista,.-.
2i
Mendez, . • • •
3
Tipiro, . . . ,
.... 34
Moyano, ....
.. 2i
Chauchillo, . • .
2i
Rio Segundo,
.. 2i
Sotelitos, . • .
3f
Geromito,
3
Pozuelos, . . .
H
Cordoba,
4
fiagual.
2
Bajo del Kosario,
.. 3
Tres Pozos, . . .
2|
Guerra,
.• H
Favorina, . . .
4f
Salitre,
.. 5i
Tucuman, . . .
H
Tala,
.. 3i
Chaftar,
3i
Divisadero,
.. 5i
Bamada,
.... 4i
Qutiquan, ....
.. 3i
Puesto,
If
Santa Criiz,. .. .
.. H
Borriaco, . . . .
3
San Pedro,
4
Chileu,
3
Carril,
.. 2i
Laguna de los I
lobles, 1^
Piedritas,
.. 3i
Ojos de Agua,
.... 5J
Pozo del Tigre,
4
Caflas,
••-. 2i
Portezuela,
,. 2i
Madriaga, • . . ,
.... H
Horquetas,
.. 2i
Mojaras,
..i. 4
Aqiiila,
.. 3i
Santas,
3
Guardia,
.. 6i
Conchas,
.... 3i
Puesto del Monte, . .
.. 3i
Piedras, . . . ,
.... 6i
Chilue,
.. 5f
Pasaje,
8
Lago Chaquin Nodrl, . .
2
Simbolar, . • .
H
Altamique,
.. H
Bamada, . . . .
.... 5f
Caflada, ....
3
•
Loreto,
.. 2i
Salta, • • v^i
tiitizeclbvG0?]»$I<
From Villa Nueva to Cordoba is about seventy-eight miles, through dense
forests of «algarroba.» At Chafiares there are excellent springs ofwater.
^MOO ITINERARIES OF THE REPUBLIC.
and a mile farther on we reach the magnificent lake of El Aguada. Abont
two miles from here are the well-known springs of Ojo de Agua. For
several leagues the lands are now verv inferior, owing to the abundance of
«biscachos,» which have burrowed about in all directions. The Bio Seguudo
is a river 250 yards wide, from one «barranca)> to the other ; but in dry
seasons the stream is only thirty yards across. Two horses and twelve
bullocks are often used to drag the wdiligenco) through^the river. After
passing through another «algarroba)) wood, Ave at last reach the city of
Cordoba.
Cordoba is the heart of the Republic; it is famous-for its delightful
climate, and is situate in the midst of an amphitheatre of hills. The popu-
lation is estimated at 20,000;' the best inn is the Hotel de Paris. The
traveller will find much to interest him in the old churches, the university,
and other public buildings. If he make an excursion to the Sierras he will
find capital shooting.
From Cordoba the route offers little of interest, till we reach Santiago :
it passes through the villages of Chailar, Altamisque, and Loreto, skirting
t^e desert of Salinas : the only rivers met with are, the Rio Primero after
leaving Cordoba, and the Rio Dulce before arriving at Santiago.
Santiago del Estero is a delapidated town of 8,000 inhabitants, with a
privileged climate: it stands in lat. 27.46, and long. 64.22. The Govern-
ment-house and three churches are worth visiting. This town is ninety
leagues north of Cordoba.
From Santiago to Tucuman is twenty-eight leagues, the route crossing
<the Rio Dulce. Nothing can exceed the fertility of the Province of Tucu-
«ian, the garden of South America, rich in every product of the tropical or
temperate zones.
The city of Tucuman stands on a well- wooded plain, 358 leagues N.W.
of Buenos Ayres, with a population of 12,000 souls: it is situate on a
iuranch of the Rio Dulce, and is famous for the declaration of Independence^
9th July, 1816.
From Tucuman to Salta is sixty-nine leagues, through a diversified
country of hill ranges and rivers, fqr we are now in the region of the
Andes. This was formerly the highway from Buenos Ayres to Lima. The
town of Salta was founded in 1 582, and its present population i^ about 10,000.
The traveller may still go twenty leagues further north, to Jujuy , which is
the last Argentine province, and borders pnBoIivia. The townis insignificant ;
but some salt is produced from the neighboring «salina8,» and the discovery
of petroleum seems to be an acknowledged fact. The navigation of the
Yermejo will open up the resources of this remote province.
TO SAN LUIS AND MENDOZA.
101
WESTERN ROUTE,
The Western route goes due west from Villa Nueva to Mendoza, thea
strikes off due north, skirting the foot of the Andes, to San Juan. The
itinerary is as follows :—
Villa Nueva,
Cabral,
CaUada de Luque,
Totoral,
Guanacho, . • .
Tambito,
Chucull,
Bio Cuarto, . . .
Ojos de Agua,
Barranquita,
Achiras,
Portezuelo, . . .
Morro,
Lorro,
Bio Quinto, . . .
3
3.i
4
44
6
4
6i
H
H
4*'
54
3i
44
54
Gerrillos,
• 4i
San Luis,
. 4i
Tisera,
. 31
Chosmes, .... , . . .
. 3i
Cabra,
. Hi
Villa de la Paz,
. H
Dormida,
. 4i
Santa Rosa, ....
• 6i
Betamo,
9
Mendoza,
6
Jujuli,
. 13i
Guanacache, • • • '. . .
. 84
Posito,
. 3i
San JuAQ,
149
From Vill^ Nueva to Bio Cuarto is twenty-seven leagues, and now we
enter on a territory very much exposed to Indian forays ; the road from
Bio Cuarto traversing a wild and desolate tract of forty leagues, till
reaching the town of San Luis.
San Luis has almost disappeared from the map, partly owing to its
constant civil wars, and partly to the Indians. The whole province has
only a handful of inhabitants ; the city of San Luis is mostly composed o'
mud huts. It has its governor, legislature, &c.
From San Luis to Mendoza is 50 leagues, still through the desert. The
road crosses the Desaguadero, before reaching the villiage of La Paz, and
at last reaches Mendoza, at the base of the giant Cordillera.
Mendoza was destroyed by earthquake, March 20th, 1861, but is npw
partially rebuilt. Its chief importance arises fiom its passes over the
Andes into Chile, and its communication with San Juan and Bosario.
The journey from Mendoza across the Cordillera of the Andes, to Santa
Bosa, the first town met with on the Chilian side, can be done in four to
six days mounted on a good mule, which may be hired from $8 to $10.
In summer it is a most pleasant journey, and to those who have not seen
the Cordillera scenery in all its grandeur it must prove a very interesting
trip, but the traveller must not attempt it between the 1st of Jlay and I^
402 rriNERAKifis of the republic.
of November following, as the pass «La Gambre)i is generally closed and
the entire road covered with snow to a depth of several yards. The
«temporales» are most Arequent in that season, and come down with
terrific force.
There is a weekly coach to San Juan, fare $13; the distance is 32
leagues, through a very wild and mountainous couutry. A gentleman who
recently made the trip from Rosario to San Juan gives the following
notes of his journey : —
«The distance from Bosario to San Juan is computed about 280 leagues,
the towns through which the coach passes being as follows r^-
Leagues. Days. ]
Guardia Esquina, ,
24
1
San Luis,
Saladillo, § ....
16
Mendoza,
Frayle Muerto,
10
1
San Juan,
Rio Cuarto, ....
50
2
Achiras, ....
19
1
Total,
Morro, ....
13
1
«From Rosario to
Rio
Cuarto
the countrj
Leagues.
25
Bays.
1
75
3
48
2
.... 280 12
is mostly level, the
camps good and abounding in pasture termed 'pasto fuerte.' Ret ween
Saladillo and Rio Cuarto timber is very plentiful. Passing the last-
named place the surface becomes broken and the views on all
sides mountainous. In succession we skirt along the Sierras de
Cordoba, Morro, and San Luis. Nothing can be more picturesque
than the situation of Achiras, Morro, and SanXuis, but the constant fear of
the Indians effectually prevents any improvement in these towns. The
river separating the provinces of San Luis and Mendoza is called Desagua-
dero, and there is a village of the same name. The road from San Luis
thither is remarkable, traversing in its whole length large forests of
algorroba, quebracho and other species of timber, all hard wood. It is
as straight as an arrow for twenty leagues of its length, and is forty yards
wide. It is without exception the finest road in the Republic, and if a
little care were bestowed on it, would be at once a wonder and a model.
From Desaguadero to Mendoza is fifty-five leagues. Here the aspect of
the country is different from anything, yet seen, the land on all sides being
cultivated. The road is lined on either side by poplars, far as the eye can
reach, and the cultivation being by means of artificial water d|*ains weU
distributed, the surrounding vegetation is quite astonishing, and only
comparable to that of the islands of the Parana. The extent of land under
agriculture in Mendoza is found to exceed 60,000 cuadras (200,000 acres}
chiefly occupied by alfalfa, vines, and cereals. The principal industry
o
MENBOZA TO SAIV JUA1!C. 103
consists in fattening cattle for the Chilian markets: they enclose the
animals in a field of alfalfa, which when eaten down, they turn them inta
another. What appears almost incredible, though true, is fhat an alfalfa
field once sown, requii-es no further labor thai irrigation, and will yield
abundant crops of pasture for forty years or more. The amount cultivated
in San Juan is 35,000 cuadras (120,000 acres) sown, as in Mendoza, for the
most part with alfalfa, vines, and cereals, and here also the chief business
is fattening cattle %r Chile. The mountains on all sides abound in
minerals : lead, silver, copper, and gold. There are also three coal mines
in Huerta,Pi6 de Palo, and Jachal, which have not yet been worked, but are
proved to contain rich and plentiful deposits : the abundance of timber
has almost rendered the consumption of coal unnecessary. The city of
San Juan is well built and presents a pleasing aspect. Many of its streets
are well paved, and each house has its own supply of water by means of
a canal communicating with the Bio San Juan. The outskirts are
charming, the city being surrounded by small mountain chains descending
from the great Andes. »
From San Juan the traveller may make excursions to the silver mines
of Marayes and Hilario ; or continue his course further north to Rioja
and Catamarca.
Bioja is about forty leagues from San Juan. The province has been made
a howling wilderness by the incessant civil wars ; it contains much mineral
wealth undeveloped. The town of Bioja is at the foot of the Andes.
Catamarca is about forty leagues beyond Bioja : the province is rich in
mineral aind agricultural products. Messrs. Lafone and Carranza are the
chief miners. There is a good business in fattening cattle for Chile.
Tobacco, wine, and fruits are raised in great quantities'.
In 1864 the Congress authorized an emission of eight per cent Bonds'for
the construction of roads and bridges through the Bepublic. The eminent
firm of Docwra, Wells, and Dawson, of London had made proposals, but
subsequently declined to take the Bonds for security. Nevertheless some
roads were commenced by Government, thrf local contractors taking the
bonds at fifty per cent., viz : — Concordia to Bestauracion, San Luis to
Cerrillos, San Luis to San Juan, San Juan to Bioja, San Juan to Tontal and
Chile, Cordoba to Bioja, Cordoba to Famatina, Salta to Tucuman, 'Salta to
Jujuy, Salta to the Bio Vermejo, Cordoba to Catamarca.
Besides these there are thirty-one roads projected, as follows ; —
/iiy,^_ A road to Bolivia, with two or three bridges over rapid rivers-
Another to unite the chief town with some port on the Bio Vermejo. ooQle
lOi ITHfERARIES OF THE REPUBLIC.
SaUa — GontinaatioD of the road to Palo Santo, and those of Jujuy
andTucnman.
Tncuman — Ck)ntinuation of the great Northern route to Santiago. * A new
road direct to Catamarca by the Guesta Totaral.
Catamarca — ^Branch to Santiago, and road to Copiap6, with houses of
refuge, to ensure constant communication with Chile even in winter. The
Totoral to be pMonged to Bioja, and a direct line drawn to Cordoba.
Rioja — ^Waggon-roads to Cordoba and San Juan; ai|Qther across the
Llanos to San Javier in Cordoba, for junction with the grand western route.
Post-'houses and fresh water must be provided along these roads.
San /i«an^-Roads to Rioja and Copicu)6, with houses of refuge in the
Cordillera. The Mendoza road to be deviated, and the Cordoba one
improved.
Mendoza — The Uspallata pass to Chile to be provided with the proper
number of houses of refuge for transandine travellers.
San Ziris — Road to Rioja, forming junction with that of the Llanos.
Cordoba — ^Deviation and improvement of the great North highway to
Santiago. Carriage-way across the Sierra, to meet that of the Llanos
to Rioja.
SanHago — ^Improvement of Sunchales route, and the central road through
the Gran Chaoo coming out in front of Corrientes.
Santa Fe, — Junction with the Santiago road, and direct road to Cordoba^
with a bridge over the Garcarafla.
Corrf^»fe5-^Road from Restauracion to Misiones, and from the latter
district to the city of Corrientes.
Sntre-Rios — Highway to Corrientes, passing through La Paz.
Bvenos Ayres — One or two bridges over the Arroyo Medio en route for
the province of Santa F6. A complete postal system on the West and
South fi'ontiers. *»
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PROJECTS AWD COKCESSIOIfS. ' 105
CHAP. IX.
ENTERPRISES, PROJECTS, AND CONCESSIONS.
Consequent on the pacification of the Republic in 1861, a number of
important enterprises sprung up, many of which vrere protected by
Government guarantee and monopoly. Some have been already completed
or are in train, others fell through, either owing to want of capital or to the
renewal of hostilities in these countries in 1865. Others still remain as
projects, waiting only a favorable occasion for realization.
The Central Argentine Railway, from Rosario to Cordoba, 247 miles,
was first projected in 1853, under General Urquiza's administration. On
the 5th September 1862, a concession was made by Congress in favor of
Mr. Wheelwright, which, as subsequently amended, stood thus —
- 1 . The cost of the line not to exceed £6,400 per mile.
2. The land necessary for the line to be given by Government ; alSb, a
grant of a league of land on each side along the line. .
3. Government guarantee of 7 per cent, interest for forty years on cost
of constttiction.
.4. The line to be finished within six and a-half years.
The works were inaugurated in April 1863, and although some delay was
caused by the Paraguayan war the line is now running to Villa Nucva, 170
. miles, and will be finished to Cordoba in 1869. There is a project to
continue the railway to Tucuman and across the Andes, for which purpose
Senor Moneta, Government engineer, made surveys in June 1M8. t
^ Digitized by VjOOQIC
106 PROJECTS iilD CONCESSIOIVS.
The Southern Railway, from Buenos Ayres to Chascomus, is 72J miles
long, the concession from the Buenos Ayres Legislature to Mr. Edward
Lumb bearing date 1 1th June 1862.
1 . The cost of the lin^ was put down at £10,000 per mile.
2. The Buenos Ayres Government guaranteed 7 per cent, for forty years
on the cost.
3. If the line be prolonged to Dolores (eighty miles further south) the
same guarantee will be given.
4. The railway to be exempt from all tax for forty years.
The Legislature refused to admit the cost of construction at more than
j£700,000, whereupon the guarantee on the additional sum of £25,000 was
collectively given by the following merchants : Messrs. Thomas Armstrong,
John Fair, George Drabble, Edward Lumb, Henry Harratt, Henry A. Green,
Gregorio Lezama, Ambrosio P. Lezica, and Federico Elortondo. The
works were commenced by Messrs. Peto & Betts on 8th March 1864, and
the line was completed before the close of 1865. Last year the net profits
gave 5 per cent, on the capital; but, every year the traSBc is improving,
and the guarantee will soon be unnecessary.
The Northern Railway, was begun in 1860, the concessionaire being
Mr. Edward A, Hopkins, but the works were destroyed the following year
by a high tide. The enterprise was continued in 1861 by Messrs. Croskey
& Murray, who again inaugurated the works in February 1862. The
c oncession stipulated : —
1 . The cost of the line £150,000, for sixteen miles.
2. Government guaranteed interest seven per cent, for twenty years.
The line was opened to San Fernando on 5th February, 1864, In
October of the same year the Legislature of Buenos Ayres gave a concession
for prolonging the line to Zarate, with a guarantee of seven per cent, for
.twenty years, but limitmg the cost to £7,100 per mile. This concession
lapsed, as the prolongation works were to be commenced within twelve '
months aud concluded in three years. The Ime was, however, prolonged
two miles to the Tigre, which is used as a port for the steamboat traffic of
the upper rivers.
The Boca and Ensenada Railway, works were begun by Mr. Wheel-
wright on 23rd February, 1863, and the concession granted in the
following July, viz. : —
1. The Government concedes permission to William Wheelwright to
construct and run for ever a railway, which shall start from the Paseo
Julio, where the Northern Bailway terminates, to the Boca del Biachuelo,
Barracas, andEnsenada.
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euseivada railway. 107
2. The road to Ensenada must be concluded before the 1st March, 1867^
unless in view of the great importance of making a previous survey of the
capabilities of that port to adapt it to the necessities of Buenos Ayrean
commerce, it should be agreed on between the Government and the
concessionaire, to make of this a practical experiment.
3. In case that Ensenada will admit of being made to meet the
necessities of the commerce of Buenos Ayres, such as a port of loading
and discharging vessels, and that the Government approves of the plans, it
is agreed that the concessionaire of the railway shall take charge of the
work, having first arranged with the Government.
'4. The Government guarantees to the concessionaire that for the
term of twenty years no other railway from the Custom-house to the
Boca, Barracas, and Ensenada, whether propelled by steam or otherwise,
shall be permitted.
On 8th September, 1865, the line was opened as flar as Barracas, three
miles ; and in November of same year a surveying expedition proceeded to
Ensenada to examine its condition as a port, and the difficulty offered bj
the bar : the report was favorable, but no further steps were taken in the
matter. The line now runs to Barracas, and the bridge over the Biachuelo
is being constructed, to push on the works to Ensenada.
The Rio Salado navigation concession was given to Don Esteban Bams
in 1863 : the history of the enterprise has been fully explained in the
chapter on the Bio de la Plata and its tributaries.
The Artesian Well of Barracas was begun by Messrs. Sordeaux & Co.,
on 1st June, 1859, with the object of carrying away the offal of the
saladeros,the saladeristas and Government defraying the expense. After
two months' labor the bore reached a depth of 96 feet, viz. : sand, 40ft. ;
slime and dark-blue ochre, 13ft. ; tosca, 7ft. ; fluid yellow and grey sand,
36ft. In December, 1861, the works were renewed, and by February,
1862, the bore reached 234 feet, having traversed a bed of marine shells.
On 14th March, 1862, the water rose through the tubes and poured out in
a • jet d'eau ' : on July 6th the Artesian Well was inaugurated by President
Mitre, and since then it has been much in use as a bath. The water is unfit
to drink, but possesses saline medicinal qualities.
The Electbic Telegraph (Buenos Ayres to Montevideo) concession was
granted on 9th June, 1864, viz. : —
1. Exclusive privilege conceded to Messrs. Proudfoot & Grey for fifteen
years, from conclusion of works.
2. Permission to erect posts on highroads or elsewhere.
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108 PROJECTS AND COHCESSIONS.
3. Government to protect the wires by all possible means. *
. 4. Govenmient messages half price.
5. In case of misunderstanding between the Republics, the Argentine
Government not to stop the wires, nor to have right to inspect messages
unless private correspondence be prohibited.
The cable was laid from Punta Lara to Colonia, twenty-six miles, in
October 1866, and the wires opened for traffic a few weeks later.
Telegraph Wires to Chile.— In December 1866, Messrs. Hopkins &
Gary obtained a concession to lay down wires from Buenos Ayres to Chile,
as follows: —
1. The line shall be completed within two years from the date of
eoiicession.
2. The Government, on conclusion of the line, shall pay the contractor a
subvention of 8 per cent, per annum for twelve years, on a cost of $200 s.
per mile.
3. The Goyernment shall cedei^ to the company fifty squares of public
lands for every fifteen miles of telegraph.
4. If the whole of the line be not completed within the term specified in
clause 2, the Government shall reduce 1 per cent, on the subvention for
every four months so delayed in finishing the line.
This project lapsed, owing to the death of Mr. Street, the eminent
contractor of San Francisco.
Traction Engines, — ^In August 1863, Messrs. Bossigaol, Beare, &
Puyrredon obtained a concession for traction engines throughout the
Bepublic ; the first line to be established in eighteen months, and others to
Bosario, Cordoba, Tucuman, and Mendoza in three years. The construction
of roads and bridges was to be at the cost of the company, whose capital was
fixed at £200,000, the Government guaranteeing 7 per cent, on actual
outlay. In 186i Mr. Beare brought from England an engine called El
Buey, which made an unsuccessful experiment from Barracas to town, and
the project was abandoned. The soil seems too soft and light for such
locomotives.
BoADs AND Bridges.— In September 1863, Congress passed the follow-
ing law : —
1. The President is authorised to emit $1,000,000 in shares, which shall
be denominated Boads and Bridges Stock.
2. These shares shall be of $20, $50, $500, and $1,000 s., with an
interest of 8 per cent., payable half yearly, and with 3 per cent,
amortization. ^ t
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SAN JUAN MINES. 4109
3. These shall be only issued at par, and shall be paid out only ^hen
new enterprises shall require it.
For a list of the roads made and projected the reader is referred to
Chap. vii.
^ San Juan Mining Company. — ^InNoveinber 1862, Governor Sarmiento of
San Juan, and President Jlitre, aided Major Bickard in getting up a joint-
stock company, capital £22,000, for th^e working of silver ores at Hilario.
Mr. Bickard went to England for machinery and miners, returning in 1863,
and proceeding at once to baild an extensive factory at Hilario. Troubles
began with the shareholders in August 1864, and the works were paralysed.
A new company was, however, formed in London in November 1867, and
it is hoped the works will shortly be resumed.
Klappenbagh'^ Mining Works, situate at La Huerta, thirty-five leagues
from San Juan, were begun in September 1864, and are now completed:
they can smelt 100 tons of ore daily. The result of the smelting in 1865
was — 1,446 marks of pure silver; in the first eight months of 1868 it was
6,589 marks. In September 1868, Messrs. Klappenbach formed a joint-
stock company of jC46,000 capital, in £200 shares: some shares not
subscribed for were taken up by the Argentine Government.
Carriage Road over the Andes. — In February 1865, a project was
set on foot by M. Carpentier, a French resident in Chile, to make a highway
from Bio Teno in Chile to Valle itermoso in the Argentine Bepublic ; the
road to be sixteen feet wide and practicable for carriages. M. Carpentier
obtained a concessiion from the Chilian Government of a right of toll for
twenty years. He estimated the cost at £50,000, and engaged to finish it
in three years. If the project be ever carrted out it will be a great gain for
travellers crossing the Cordillera.
Eastern Argentine Railway. — In February '1863, Minister Bawsou
instructed Smith, Knight, & Co., London, to prepare surveys for a line from
Concordia in Entre Bios to Mercedes in Corrientes. The following con-
cession was granted in August 1864 : —
1 . The cost shall not exceed £13,353.
2. The National Government guarantees 7 per cent, interest on the
capital invested.
3. The line to have three sections : 1st. From Concordia to Federacion ;
2nd. From Federacion to Monte-Caseros ; and, 3rd. From Monte-Caseros
to Mercedes.
4. The first section may be commenced at once ; but the second not until
fio
PROJECTS AND CONCESSIONS.
the first yields 3^ per cent, net on the capital ; and the third when both
first and second give the same (3^ per cent.) net returns.
5. All lands necessary for the line, stations, &c., shall be ceded gratis to
the company.
6. At least eighteen miles shall be open to traflBc within two years^nd
the rest of the first section in twelve months later.
7. Government may interfere in tile traffic when the dividends exceed
15 per cent.
There is every likelihood of this enterprise being revived, and the
Crovernments of Entre JJios and Corrientes will perhaps give a land-grant
along the line, similar to that of the Central Argentme.
LuxAN AND Salto RAILWAY. — This was a project by M. Lacroze, to run
a branch from the Western Railway northwards, the Government of Buenos
Ayi*es finding the funds, to be reimbursed in part by municipal taxation in
the (cpartidos)) benefited by the line. It was judged impracticable.
Parana and Nogoya Railway. — The surveys for this line were made in
October 1865 by Neville. Mortimer, C. E., who estimated the cost at
j£32 1.536 sterling; or £5,024 per mile, the length being 64 miles.
Nothing has since been done in the matter.
LoBOs Railway. — ^In June 1867 several land-holders of Lobos and
neighbouring partidos prevailed on Governor Alsina to order the surveys
of a branch-line from the Western to Lobos. The idea of Government
consisted in proposing to the Legislature of Buenos Ayre* the emission
of twenty millions currency (£160,000 sterling) in 6 per cent, funds,
saleable at 85, with an annual sinking-fund of 1 per cent. Vice-President
Paz and Dr. Acosta assured Governor Alsina that most of the said funds
would be tJlken up in Lobos, Navarro, Saladillo &c. : they even promised
to get all the land gratis, along the route. The branch-line would start
from Moreno or Rodriguez station ; the cost would be about £5,000 per
mile, but it is difficult to suppose the funds could be provided by
subscription among the estancieros.
Rio LuxAN Port and Railway. — ^In October 1867, a project was started,
to run a branch railway from Floresta, on the Western line, to the River
Lujan. The cost was estimated at £100,000, and the projectors sought no
giiarautee but a monopoly for twenty years, the great object being to make a
port on the Rio Lujan, for the city of Ruenos Ayres, at a place where the
water is said to have a depth of twelve feet.
San Fernando Canalization. — The concession, bearing §a]^|| J§th July, q\^
1863, is as follows:— . ^ ^^ ^ ^
HARBOR ACCOBIMODATION. Ill
1. Mr. Edward A. Hopkins is hereby authorized to form a joint-stock
coftipany for the canalization of the Arroyo Capitan, between the Parana
de las Palmas and Lujan river, opposite the town of San Fernando, with a .
mole, warehouses, and deposit stores, suitable to the requirements of the
coasting craft of the upper rivers.
2. The capital of the company shall not exceed one million five hundred
thousand silver dollars.
3. The company may charge the tolls, mole, and deposit dues which it
shall judge fit, for the term of twenty years, provided that tlie receipts do
not exceed the sum of eighteen per cent nett profit on the capital.
4. The Arroyo del Capitan shall be canalized and improved! and shall
have at least eighteen metres in breadth throughout the whole length at
surface, and three metres in depth at mean tide.
5. The dues payable for the use of the canal shall only be recoveraJ)le
in proportion to its cost, which must not exceed the sum of three hundred
and seventy-eight thousand four ^hundred and twelve silver dollars,
according to the estimates of the concessionaire.
6. At the expiration of the twenty years mentioned in article 3, the
canal shall be free from all the company's dues.
7. At any time during the period of this concession the Government
shall have the right of expropriating the canal works for the benefit of the
public, at the value of their cost, and 25 per cent extra as indemnification.
8. The company shall have the requisite number of tug-boats for the
service of the moles and canal.
9. The works shall commence within the period of eighteen months.
In 1865 Congress gave a prolongation of the concession, -and Mr.
Hopkins began the works in the following year. A company was formed in
Buenos Ayres in 1867^ since when the works go on favorably. The iron-
work is ordered from England, the machinery from the United States ;
among the latter is a dredge capable of throwing 100 tons an hour.
Port for Bueivos Ayres. — ^In 1859, Mr. Coghlan, C.E., prepared a
complete survey, with plans, for the construction of a harbor, the estimated
cost being £800,000 : the plans still decorate the ante-chamber of the
Provincial Legislature. In 1864 the project was taken up under another
form by Sefior Garay. There is now some talk of Congress devoting the
extra duties hitherto used for war purposes in this more useful manner. In
1866 Mr. Petty, the pilot, submitted a project to clear the roadstead of the
many wrecks and lost anchors lying about j he asked no other remuneration
. than the anchors, &c., to be recovered, whereupon the authorities called
112 PROJECTS AND CONCESSIONS.
for tenders to clean the port, and nothing has since been done in the
matter.
•
Harbor at the Boca. — ^In July 1863, Don Manuel Lynch submitted to
Congress the subjoined project, i^hich died, like so many others, in
embryo —
1 . The company shall construct, at their own risk and expense, a harbor
for this city.
2. The entrance to such harbor will be near Quilmes, with a depth of
watef fourteen feet at low tide, with a proper sluice-gate.
3. This entrance will be prolonged as far as the Biachuelo de la Boca^
by means of a canal.
4. The company shall erect, at their own cost, warehouses and depots.
5. When the section shall be finished to the Biachuelo, all vessels shall
be obliged to enter the canal and Biachuelo for unloading or loading.
• 6. The company shall recover, in such cases, on unloading, 12 reals s.
per ton register, and the same for loadi^.
7 . The company shall have one or more tug-boats to take vessels yi or
out of the port, the fee for which shall not exceed 4 reals s. per ton
register.
8. This concession shall be for a term of thirty years, after which the
Government shall enter into full possession of the canals and lighthouse.
Gunpowder Manufactory. — In September 1865, this company was
formed, with a capital of £10,000, in shares of £50 each, under the
direction of Mr. Liesenberg, who had had ten years' experience in Europe.
An unlucky explosion occurred in July 1867, the day before the proposed
inauguration: Mr. Liesenberg was seriously injured; but the enterprise
was not abandoned. The works are situate at Palermo.
Steam Communication with United States. — In August 1865, Congress
voted £4,000 per annum as a subsidy for a branch line of the United States
and Brazilian mail service: up to the present no branch has been
established.
Buenos Ayres Water-works. — ^In August 1863 a proposal was sent in
by Messrs. Easton, Amds, & Co., London, to provide water-works for the
city. The supply was to be 30,000 pipes daily, the water being taken from
above the Gas-house. The cost was estimated at £102,000, for which the
Municipality would give 7 per cent, bonds. Several other projects were
initiated from time to time, but the Municipality paid no attention to the
wants of the city, till, in January r868, the cholera caused such ravages
Governor Alsina and the Legislature took the matter ku hand^
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SfeWAGE AND WATER-WORKS. 113
Mr. Goghian was authorised to construct water-works near the Recoleta,
:at jin estimated cost of £48^000, and an engineer was despatched to
England for machinery.
Mr. Coghlan states, in a report to Don Emilio Castro, dated May 15, that
the original design has been considerably extended, being now calculated
for the distribution of 1,300,000 gallons daily. All the machinery being
provided in duplicate the quantity may be at any time extended by addi-
tional reservoirs and filters. The addition of a third engine similar to the
two already contracted for, would be sufBcient for increasing the supply to
2,500,000 gallons daily.
The works were inaugurated with great pomp on the 1 5th September,
the machinery is already shipped from England, and it is expected the
whole project will be carried out early in 1869. The pipes will suffice for
twelve miles of ground.
DRAnvAGE, Water Supply, and PaviHg. — There are several projects
under consideration, some one of which will probably be carried out before
long. The works undertaken by Mr. Coghlan are in a manner temporary,
as they do not include drainage and paving, and the new proposals include
the purchase of said work^. The proposals of Bobinsap & Co., and Gotto
& Neate, are the most important.
Thomas Robinson and Co.^s Proposals.
Drainaye. — ^Will construct all ^lecessary sewers, two disinfectiug
^stations, g:ullies for street water, junction pipes to facilitate house
tlrainage. '
•Water-works. — ^Will supply 2,000,000 gallons filtered water daily, con-
stant pressure, fire-plugs at every cross street, hydrants, air valves, watar
tower, and cistern.
Will execute at least twelve squares (1 ,700 yards) of both works every
two months, and complete all in four years. Will commence works
immediately on signing contract. *
Terms.— To be paid for 400 manzanas (blocks 425 feet square) £820,000
in Provincial Bonds bearing 7 pei: cent, interest, and 3 per cent, sinking
fund, payable in ^London or Buenos Ay res at choice of contractor. For
every additional manzana £ 1 ,350.
Gotto and Neate's Proposal: Capital, £1,200,000.
Sewerage. — Pipes to carry off sewage and rain water. Junctions to
liouses.
Water-works. — Supply of 6,000,000 gallons in twenty-four houFS, constant
pressure. ' Digitized by LjOO^
I
114 PROJECTS AltD COIVCESSIOBS.
Paving. — Of 136 squares (58,000 lineal feet) with granite blocks, ia
concrete.
Will maintain and work water supply and drainage for term of conces-
sion, and keep paving in repair for one year.
Terms. — ^Monopoly for ninety-nine years. Exemption from duties,
import and export. Payment by Provincial Government of $48 s. (£9 1 55.)
per annum for each house within the city. The Municipality to pay
$25,000 s. (£5, 100) per annum for water for fountains, fires, and watering
the streets.
Export op Ca^ttle. — ^In August 1868, Messrs. Alexander F. Baillie and
P. Barry, on the part of a London company, petitioned the Argentine
Government for a concession to export live stock to Europe. The capital
of the company was stated at £500,000, and a fleet of seven first-class
steamers would be constructed, with the double purpose of bringing out
emigrants, and taking home cattle in the return voyage : the annual export
of stock to be at least 5,000 head of horned cattle and .3,000 sheep. They
solicited a monopoly for seven years, and a total exemption from Customs'-
duties. Mr. Baillie returned to England in October, and states that he has
obtained the concession prayed for, as far as regards all exportation of live
stock to England and France.
New Gas Company.— In the beginning of 1867, Mr. James Bell of
Montevideo, associated with some men of influence and capital in Buenos
Ayres, projected a new gas company%i Buenos Ayres, in opposition to the
original company established in 1856. The capital of th6 old company i&
$18,000,000, or £144,000 sterling, and the dividends in recent years have
varied from 20 to 30 per cent, per annum : the shares are still over 50 per
cent, premium. " The present price of gas is about £1 3*. per 1,000 cubic
feet, and the proposed new company promises to make a great reduction ;
as yet, however, it remains merely a project, the only step taken being the
submission of tBe statutes to the Argentine Government, which has
appi'oved of same. The term (^roonopoly granted to the old company has-
long since expired. It is intended to erect the works of the new company
at the south end, in Barracas. .
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TBEATIES OF COMMERCE'. US*
CHAP. X.
TREATIES OF COMMERCE AND NAVIGATION.
The treaty of amity, commerce, and navigation between the Argentine
Bepublic and Great Britain bears date 2nd February 1825, and is as
follows : —
TKEiTY WITH ORBAT BRfTAIN.
Extensive commercial intercourse having been established for a series of
years between the dominions of His Britannic Majesty, and the territories
of the United Provin'ces of Rio de la Plata, it seems good for the security,
as well as encouragement of such commercial intercourse, and for the
maintenance of good understanding between His said Britannic Majesty-
and the said United Provinces, that the relations now subsisting between
them should be regularly acknowledged and confirmed by the signature of
a Treaty of Amity, Commerce, and Navigation.
For this purpose they have named their respective Plenipotentiaries,
that is to say: —
His Majesty, the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, Woodbine Parish, His said Majesty's Consul-General, in the
Province of Buenos Ay res and its dependencies ; and the United Provinces
of Rio de la Plata, Sr. D. Manuel Jos6 Garcia, Minister Secretary for the
Department of Government, Finance, and Foreign Affairs, of the National
Executive Power of the said Provinces. Digitized by GoOqIc
i2 ^
ri6 TBEATIES OF COMMERCE
Who, after having communicated to each other their respective Full
Powers, found to be i^ due and proper fbrm, have agreed upon and
eoncluded the following articles : —
Art. 1. There shall be perpetual amity between the dominions and
subjects of His Majesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, and the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata and their
inhabitants.
Art. 2. There shall be, between all the territories of His Britannic
Majesty in Europe, and the territories of the United Provinces of Bio de
la Plata, a reciprocal freedom of commerce. The inhabitants of the two
countries respectively, shall have liberty freely and securely to come with
their ships and cargoes to all such places, ports, and rivers in the territories
aforesaid, to which other foreigners are or may be permitted to come, to
enter into the same and remain and reside in any part of the said territories
respectively; also to hire and occupy houses and warehouses for the
purposes of their commerce ; and generally the merchants and traders of
each nation, respectively, shall enjoy the most complete protection and
security for their commerce ; subject always to the laws and statutes of
the two countries respectively.
Art. 3. His Majesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, engages further, that in all His Dominions situated out of
Europe, the inhabitants of the United Provinces of Bio de la Plata shall
have the like liberty of commerce iind navigation stipulated for in the
preceding article, to the full extent in which the same is permitted at
present, or shall be permitted hereafter to any other nation.
Art. 4* No higher or other duties shall be imposed on the importation
into the territories of His Britannic Majesty, of any articles of the growth,
woduce or manufacture of the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata,
and no higher or other duties shall be imposed on the importation into the
said United Provinces, of any articles of the growth, produce, or
manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's dominions, than are, or shall be
payable on the like articles, being the growth, produce, or manufacture,
of any other foreign country ; nor shall any other, or higher duties or
charges be imposed in the territories or dominions of either of the
contracting parties, on the exportation of any articles to the territories
or dominions of the other, than such as are ox maj be payable on the
exportation of the like articles to any other foreign country : nor
shall any prohibition be imposed upon the exportation of any article, the
growth, produce or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's doniinion^^^f^Qlp
the said United^rovinces, whichshall not equally extend toallotlilr nations. ^
TRBJLTY WITH EllQLAllD. H7
Art. &. No higher, or other duties or charges on account of
tonn2^7 light, or harbouTidues, pilotage^ salvage in ca^e of damage or
shipMrreck, or any otheir local charges, shall be imposed, in any of the
ports of the said United Provinces, on British vessels ^f the burthen of
above one hundred and twenty toas, than those payable in the salne ports,
by vessels of the said United Provinces of the same burthen ; nor
in the ports of any of His Britannic Majesty's territories on the
vessels of the said United Provinces of above one hundred and twenty
tous, than shall be payable in the same ports, on British vessels of the
same burtben.
Art. 6. The same duties shall be paid on the importation into the said
United Provinces of any article the growth, produce, or manufacture of
His Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether such importation shall be in
vessels of the said United Provinces or in British vessels ; and the same
duties shall be paid on the importation into the dominions of His Britannic
Majesty of any article the growth, produce or manufacture of the said
United Provinces, whether such importation shall be in Britisli vessels, or
in vessels of the said United Provinces. The same duties shall be paid,
and the same drawbacks and bounties allowed, on the exportation of any
article of the growth, produce, or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's
dominions to the said United Provinaes, whether such, exportation shall be
in vessels of the said United Provinces, or in Bvitish vessels, and the same
duties shall be paid, and the same bouuties and drawbacks allowed on the
exportation of any articles the growth, produce, or manufacture of the
said United Provinces to His Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether such
exportatiQ|i shall b^ in British vessels, or in vessels of the said United
Provinces.
Art. 7. In order to avoi* any misunderstanding with respect to the
regulations which may respectively constitute a British vessel, or a vessel
of the said United Provinces, it is hereby agreed, that all vessels built in
the dofoinions of I^s Britannic Majesty and owned, navigated, and
registered according to the laws of Great Britain, shall be considered as
British vessels ; and that all vessels built in the territories of the said
United Provinces^ properly registered and owned by the citizens thereof,
or any of them, and whereof the master and three fourths of the mariners,
at least, are citizens of the said United Provinces, sh^^ll be considered as
vessels of the said United Provinces.
' Art. 8. All merchants, commanders of ships, and^.ojthgi^s, the subjects of
His Britannic Majesty, shall have the same liberty in aU the territories of
118 TREATIES OF GOMMEBGE.
the said United Provinces, as the mtives thereof, to manage their owq
affairs themselves, or to commit them to the management of
>¥homsoever they please, as broker, factor, agent, or interpreter ^ nor
shall they be obliged to employ any other persons for those purposes, nor
to pay them any salary or remuneration, unless they shall choose to employ
them ; and absolute freedom shall be allowed, in all cases, to the buyer
and seller to bargain and fix the price of any goods, wares, or merchandize
imported into, or exported from, the said United Provinces, as they
shall see good.
Art. 9. In what relates to 'the loading or unloading of ships, the safely
of merchandise, goods, and effects, the disposal of property of every sort
and denomination, by sale, donation, or exchange, or in any other manner
whatsoever, as also the administration of justice, the subjects and citizens
of the two contracting parties shall enjoy, in their respective dominions ^
the same privileges, liberty, and rights, as the most favoured nation, and ^
shall not be charged,*in any of these respects with any higher duties or
imposts than those which are paid, or may be paid, by the native subjects
or citizens of the Power in whose dominions they may be resident. They
shall be exempted from all compulsory military service whatsoever,
whether by sea or land, and from all forced loans, or military exactions or
requisitions ; neither shall thfey be compell^ to pay any ordinary taxes,
under any pretext whatsoever, greater than those that are paid by native
subjects or citizens.
Art. 10. It shall be free for each of the two contracting parties to appoint
Consuls for the protection of trade, to reside in the dominions and
territories of the other party ; but before any Consul shall act as such, he
shall, in the usual form, be approved and admitted by the government to
which he is sent ; and either of the contractiftg parties may except from
the residence of Consuls, such particular place as either of them may
judge fit to be so excepted.
Art. 1 1 . For the better security of commerce between the subjects of
His Britannic Majesty, and the inhabitants of the United Provinces of Rio
de la Plata, it is agreed that if at any time any interruption of friendly
commercial intercourse, or any rupture should unfortunately take place
between the two contracting parties, the subjects or citizens* of either of
the two contracting parties residing in the dominions of the other, shall
have the privilege of remaining and continuing their trade therein,
without any manner of interriiption, so long as they l>ehavq.^|i^|(^e4Qj^OQlc
and commit no offence against the laws ; and their effects and property, ^
TmEJLTT WITH EllGLAIID. 119
nrhether entrusted to individHals or to the state, shall not be liable to
^izore or sequestration, or to any other . demands than those which may
be made upon the Ifke effects or property, belonging to the native
inhabitants of the state in which such subjects or citizens may reside.
Art. 12. The subjects of His Britannic Majesty residing in the United
Provinces of Rio de la Plata, shall not be disturbed, persecuted, or
annoyed on account of their religion, but they shall have perfect liberty
of conscience therein, and to celebrate Divine service either within their
own private houses, or in their own particular churches or chapels, which
they shall be at liberty to build and maintain in convenient places, approved
of by the Government of the said United Provinces. Liberty shall also
be granted to bury the subjects of His Britannic Majesty who may die in the
territories of the said United Provinces, in their own burial places, which,
in the same manner they may establish and maintain. In the like manner,
the citizens of the said United Provinces shall enjoy, within all the
dominions of His Britannic Majesty a perfect and unrestrained liberty of
conscience, and of exercising their religion publicly or privately, within
their own dwelling houses, or in the chapels and places of worship
appointed for that purpose, agreeable to the system of toleration
established in the dominions of His Majesty.
Art. 13. It shall be free for the subjects of His Britannic Majesty, residing
in the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata, to dispose of their property, of
every description, by will or testament, as they may judge fit; and in the
event of any British subjects dying without such will or testament in the
territories of the said United Provinces, the British Gonsul-General, or,
in his absence, his representative, shall have the right to nominate curators
to take charge of the property of the deceased, for the benefit of his
lawful heirs and creditors, without interference, giving convenient notice
thereof to the authorities of the country ; and reciprocally.
Art. 14. His Britannic Majesty being extremely desirous of totally
abolishing the slave trade, the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata
engage to co-operate with his Britannic Majesty for the completion of so
beneficent a work, and to prohibit all persons inhabiting within the said
4Jnited Provinces, or subject to their jurisdiction, in the most effectual
manner, and by the most solemn laws, from taking any share in such trade.
Art. 15. The present treaty shall be ratified, and the ratifications shall
J>e exchanged in London within four months, or sooner if possible.
In witness whereof, the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed the
same, and have affixed their seals thereunto. '^' '^^ ^ o
120 lUBJkTIBS OP GOMHERCE.
Done at Biienos Ayrfes, the second day of Februliry, in the year of oar
Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenty-five.
W60DBIKE Pabish (L. S.) (H. U. ConsuMaeneral).
Ma'ttijel Josi^ Garcia (L. S.)
In 1839 a treaty was conchided between England and Buenos Ayres for
the suppression of the slave trade, slavery having been already abolished
in the River Plate.
In 1842 the United States solemnly recognised the emancipation of La
Plata from Spain.
In 1849 Great Britain raised the blockade, restored Martin Garcia, and
made peace with the tyrant Rosas, the latter consenting to withdraw his
forces from the Banda Oriental. By this treaty the navigation of the rivers
Parana and Uruguay was recognised as inland navigation, solely pertaining
to tlie Argentine Republic and Banda Oriental.
In 1853, after the fall of Rosas, General Urquiza hastened to throw open
the navigation of the rivers to the flags of all nations. On the 10th July of
said year the Ministers of the United States, Great Britain, and France^
proceeded to San Jose de Flores, and there concluded identical treaties on
this subject.
TREATY WITH THE tmiTEO STATES.
The President of the United States and His Excellency the Provisional
Director of the Argentine Confederation, being desirous of strengthening
the bonds of friendship which so happily subsist between their respective
States and Countries, and convinced that the surest means of arriving at
this result is to take in concert all the measures requisite for facilitating
and developing commercial relations, have resolved to determine by treaty
the conditions of the free navigation of the rivers ParanA and Uruguay,
and thus to remove the obstacles which have hitherto impeded this
navigation.
With this object they have named as their Plenipotentiaries, that
is to say: —
The President of the United States, Robert C. Shenck, Envoy- Extraor-^
dinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States to Brazil, and
John S. Pendleton, Charge d'Affairesof the United States to the Argentine
Confederation.
And His Excellency the Provisional Director of the Argentine Confe-
deration, Doctor Don Salvador Maria del CarrU, and Doctor Don J[Q^|p
Benjamin Gorostiaga. ^ o
#
FREE llAVIGATIOir OP HIVMS. 121
WbO) after having tomnuniooted to eaob other their full powers, found
in good and due form, have agreed upon the following articles : —
Art. 1 . The Argentine Confederation, in the exercise of her sovereign
rights, concedes the free navigation of the rivers Parana and Uruguay >
wherever they may belong to her, to the merchant vessels of all Nations,
subject only to the conditions which this treaty establishes, and to the
regulations sanctioned or which may hereafter be sanctioned by the
National authority of the Confederation.
Art. 2. Consequently, the said vessels shall be admitted to remain, load
and unload in the places and ports of the Argentine Confederation which
are open for that purpose.
Art. 3. The Government of the Argentine Confederation, desirous to
provide every, facility for interior navigation, agrees to maintain beacons
and marks for setting out the channels.'
Art. 4. A uniform system shall be established by the competent
authorities of the Confederation for the collection of the Custom-house
duties, harbour lights, police and pilotage dues along the whole course of
the waters which belong to the Confederation.
Art. 5. The high contracting parties, considering that the island of
Martin Garcia may, from its position, embarrass and impede the free
navigation of the confluents of the River Plate, agree to use their
influence to prevent the possession of the said island from being retained
or held by any State of the River Plate or its confluents which shall not
have given its adhesion to the principle of their free navigation.
Art. 6. If it should happen (which God forbid) that war should break
out between any of the States, Republics, or Provinces, the rivers ParanA
and Uruguay shall remain free to the merchant flags of all nations^
excepting in what may relate to munitions of war, such as arms of all
kinds, guppowder, lead, and cannon balls.
Art. 7. Power is expressly reserved to His Majesty the Emperor of
Brazil, and the Governments of Bolivia, Paraguay, and the Oriental State
of Uruguay, to become parties to the present treaty in case they should be
disposed to apply its principles to the parts of the rivers Parand,
Paraguay, and Urugujgr, over which they may respectively possess
fluvial rights.
Art. 8. The principal objects for which the rivers Parana and Uruguay
are declared free to the commerce; of the world, being to extend the
mercantile relations of the countries which border them, and to promote
immigration, it is hereby agreed that no favour or imraunitj shall be
t22 TIIEA.TIES OF COMMERCE.
granted to the flag or trade of any other nation which shall not equally
extend to those of the United States.
Art. 9. The present treaty shall be ratified on the part of the GoYem*
ment of the United States within fifteen months from its date, and within
two days by His Excellency the Provisional Director of the Argentine
Confederation, who shall present it to the first Legislative Congress of the
Confederation for their approbation.
The ratifications shall be exchanged at the seat of Government of the
Argentine Confederation within the term of eighteen months.
In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed this
treaty, and aflixed thereto their seals.
Done at San Jos6 de Flores on the tenth day of July in the year of our
Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty-three. — ^Robert Scheimk — Johw
S. Pendleton — Salvador Marli del Carril — Jos^. B. Gorostiaga.
In 1858, General Urquiza's Government concluded a convention with
H.B.M.'s Minister, ftlr. Christie, at Parand, for payment of damages caused
to British subjects during the civil wars, the claimants receiving 6 per
cent, bonds.
#
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PUBLIC MEN. 123
CHAP. XI.
BIOGRAPHIES OF PUBLIC MEN.
PRESIDENT SARMIENTO.
Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. was born in the town of San Juan at the
end of Febraarj 1811, nine months after the glorious 25th of May that
marks the birthday of the Argentine nation.* His father, though
uneducated) was an enthusiastic patriot, and took an active part in the
revolution which emancipated his native country from the Colonial regime.
Finding, at every step> the disadvantages of his ignorance, he determined
that his son should not share them, and, from the early age of five years^
sent him to school. There young Sarmiento, by his application and talent,
gave already signs of his future greatness. Being originally destined for
the Church, he wafi^sent, in 1824, to the Loreto Seminary at Cordova ;. but
the revolution of Carita, having deprived him of his Latin master, he
began in 1825 to study mathematics and land surveying under Mr. Barreau^
the engineer of the province. In the same year he went to San Luis ^ith
his relation, the Clerigo Oro, to continue the studies which the revolution
of the previous year had interrupted. In 1826, returning to his native
town, he hired as clerk in a store, but his nights were devoted either to
reading or to discussions with his uncle, Father Albarracin, on the Bible.
He took an active part in the campaign that followed against Facundo
Quiroga in San Juan, and that against Fraile Aldao in Mendoza, which
ended in the catastrophe of Pilar, where he rose to the rank of Captain,
' and where his courage and presence of mind saved him from many a {^
124 PUBLIC utis.
dangerous chances. The victory of Facando Qairoga, in Chacon, in 1831,
obliged him and most of his companions to emigrate to Chile, where he
was successively schoolmaster in the Andes, bar-keeper in Pocuro, clerk
in a commercial house in Valparaiso, and major-domo of mines in Copiapo.
In 1836 he returned to San Juan, poorer than he had left, and suffering
from severe illness. He then, in society with Drs. Rosas, Cortinez, and
Aberastain, devoted his energies to promote several institutions of great
utility for the province cf San Juan, such as a college for girls, another
for boys, a dramatic society, and last, though not least, the Zonda^n weekly
publication, that tended to impi*ove and instruct the masses. General
Benavides, who was then the absolute ruler of San Juan, took umbrage at
the influence and position young Sarmiento was acquiring, and, not only
suppressed the Zonda^ but left no stone unturned, by vexatious persecution,
to oblige him once more to emigrate. In this he at last succeeded ; and in
November 1840, Sarmiento again crossed the Cordillera, doomed to eat for
a long time the hard-earned bread of exile. On his second visit to Chile he
began to take an active part in the politics of his adopted country, and,
both as editor of several papers, and as a writer of literary works, mor6
especially of education, he acquired for himself a fame which found echo
even in the Old World. In 1846 and 1847 he was sent to EUropeona
commission by the Chilian Government, to inspect and* report upon sch6ols
and educational institutions; and on his return wrote an account ol his
travels, which he pnblished. By his powerful wrilings in the periodical
press, and in his other works, he contributed to the overthrow of the tyrant
Rosas, and also took an active part in the final scene that was enacted on
the plain.^ of Caserois, where he held the rank of Chief of the Staff oif the
Grande Ejercito Libertador, and as such compiled the fsmoufi bolletia
giving the oflBcial account of that celebrated action. Having, however,
fallen out with Urquiza, he took up his residence in Buenos Ayrek, and
continued taking* an active part in the troubled politics of those days,
principally as editor of the Nacional. He was then appointed Inq>ector-
General of Schools, and was able by his great experience and profound
knowledge to effect vast improvements in the educational system of the
country. After the battle of Cepeda he took office with Governor Mitre as
Ministro de Gobierno, until the sad news arrived of the tragical deatil of his
school-fellow and friend, Aberastain, and of the invasion of Juan Saa in the
province of San Juan. He disagreed with his coHeagnes as to the action
that the Government of Buenos Ayres was called to assume, and resigned.
He subsequently took part in the campaign that was decided on the banks
of the Pavon, and at the end of December re-cintered Sati Joan, after*
PREStDEMT SAEMIERTO. 125
twenty-twp years exile, at the head of a victorious army. Having been
tti^aaimously elected Governor of the province, he devoted for two years
and a-half all his energy and ability to the moral and material jj^ogress of
his native province^ and had the glory of bringing to a successful issue the
diOicult campaign against the great «caudillo)> of the west, General Peilaloza,
commonly called the Chacho. In April 1S64, at the entreaty of President
Mitre, he consented to go as Minister Plenipotentiary to Washington.
During a residence of four years in the United States he became
imbued with the progressive ideas of Americans, especially admir-
ing their system of popular education. In August 1868, he was elected
Preiiident of the Argentine Republic, for the usual term of six years, the
voting being as follows : —
For President
For Vice-President.
Votea.
Votes.
Bomingo F, Sarmiento, ....
79
Adolf 0 Alsina, . . . .
82
General Urquiza, ....
26
Wenceslao Paunero, ....
45
Bulino de EUzalde, ....
22
Manuel Ocampo, ....
2
Guillermo Rawson, ....
3
Francisco de las Carreras,
1
Dalmacio Vele^ Sarsfield,
.1
Juan B. Alberdi, ....
1
On the 12tk lOctober 1868, he entered into office.
VfCB-PRESIDENT ALSINA.
Adolf 0 Alsina was born in Buenos Ay res on the 13th of February 1829.
His father having been driven into exile to Montevideo, young Adolfo began
there his studies. In* 1852 he. came back to Buenos Ayres with his father,
and continued his studies in the Buenos Ayres University, where he
received his degree of Doctor of Laws. He took up arms in 1 852, and shortly
afterwards was made captain, and during the siege of 1853 commanded an
important cccanton,)) where he'distinguished himself for great bravery. He
took an active part in political life, as member of the Club Libertad, and
made himself notable by his energy and eloquence. Cepeda found him
promoted to thq rank of lieutenant-colonel, and on that day he earned
great praise for military tact and courage displayed amidst adversity. He
was present at Pavon, where he comtaanded a battalion of National Guards.
After a journey to Europe, in 1866, the influence he held in the Club
Libertad secured his election as Governor of Buenos Ayres, from which post
he has been raised to the Vice-Presidency. He is of a jovial character, and
very popular among his friends. To all the fine qualities of his father, the
much-respected Dr. V. Alsina, he adds an energy of ^^^^^^^lUb^^"^^ ^1?lc
126 PUBLIC MEN.
rarely met with among our public men, and which he inherits from his
mother, Dorta A. Maza, daughter of Dr. Manuel Vicente Maza, w^ho took a
busy part in public affairs during the time of Rosas, and whose tragic end
is notoridKs. His administration as Governor 6f Buenos Ayres was remark-
able for two important measures, either of which is sufficient to throw over
it a lustre of imperishable glory : they are the foundation of the Oficina de
Catobios, for fixing the value of the currency, and the city water-works.
GENERAL MITRE, EX-PRESmENT.
Brigadier-General Bartolom6 Mitre, the late President of the Republic,
is a native of Buenos Ayres. He commenced his career as cadet of artillery
in Montevideo in 1839, r6se to the rank of captain fighting against the
armies of Oribe and Urquiza until 1845, when he left for Chile, where he
was appointed Colonel and fought against Bolivia, commanding a field
battery; after the war he edited several papers, and came in 1852
commanding the Oriental artillery of the allied army against Rosas, in
Caseros. Was elected deputy to the local legwlature, which, having made
strong opposition to the Government, was forcibly dissolved, and he with
several others went into exile. He was recalled after the revolution of
1852, appointed commander of the forces in Buenos Ayres in the siege of
1853, and was made Minister of War ; was promoted to the rank of General
in 1859, and commanded the army of Buenos Ayres at the battle of
Cepeda, which he lost. Was elected Governor of the Province in 1860,
promoted to the rank of Brigadier-General, . and won the battle of Pavon
against the army of the Confederation, after which he pacified the country,
and was unanimously elected President*, in October 1862. During his
administration Buenos Ayres made great progress in industry, commerce,
and public enterprises. The Cordoba railway, electric telegraph, and
other notable works are associated with this period ; but it is also true that
the state of the Upper Provinces was deplorable, the Indians devastating
the frontiers with impunity. But for the war with Paraguay, the Argentine
Republic must, have advanced with rapid strides in all the arts of peace.
General Mitre always evinced great friendship for Englishmen, and is an
admirer of our literature, having translated some of Longfellow's poems.
He stands high as a Spanish writer, for his life of General Belgrano, and is
a member of several European literary associations. On the conclus^ion of
his term of office, October 12th 1868, his friends and admirers purchased a
house for him. He is fond of playing chess, and is a thorough republican
in sentiment.
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general ubquiza. 127
geherai; urquiza.
Justo Jos6 de Urquiza, Captain-General) ex-President ^ and Govet^nor of
Entre-Bios, was born near Goncepcion abont the beginning of the present
century. He began life behind a (|^aper's counter, but soon took to a
military career, in which he was eminently successful. He expelled
Rosas in 1852, was elected President, gave a Constitution to the Republic,
threw open the rivers to the flags of all nations, and restored order in the
upper provinces. In 1859 he obliged Buenos Ayres to re-enter the
Argentine Confederation, but was defeated by General Mitre in 1861.
Since then he has lived in retirement at his princely estancia of San Jos6,
near Concepcion, where he treats all visitors, especially Englishmen, with
the warmest hospitality. His cattle and sheep-farms are as large as some
of the smaller European monarchies, and give him a splendid income.
He encourages immigration, railways, &c., and has subscribed £20,000 to
the Central Argentine Company. He was again elected Governor of Entre
Rios in 1867, and was next after Sarmiento .in the list of candidates for
the Presidency. His last service to the Republic was the pacification of
Corrientes, in*union with the veteran diplomatist. Dr. Velez Sarsfield. *
THE ARCHBISHOP OF BUENOS AYRES.
His Grace, Dr. Jos^ Maria 'Biistillos y Zeballos de Escalada, is descended
cf an old Spanish falnily, and was born in this city, A.D. 1800. He was
raised to the episcopal dignity as co«adjutor to the late Bishop Medrano,
^ onfder the title 'Bishop of Anion, in partibus,^ In 185 4 a Papal bull
created him Kshop of Buenos Ayres, and in 1866 the see was elevated to
an Archbishopric. Dr. Escalada is a man of portly and patriarchal
appearance, and is much esteemed for his unassuming manners. His
palace, in the Plaza Victoria, adjacent to the Cathedral, was erected for
him by the State, in 1861. He has a secretary* a chaplain, and three
clerks for the despatch of business. His salary is about £1,000 a year.
Oat of his private fortune he has built a chapel near the English cemetery,
connected with the diocesan clerical college.
GOVERNOR CASTRO.
Emilio Castro, Governor of the Province of Buenos Ayres, is a native of
this city, and about fifty years of age. He has rendered long and varied
services in many public capacities, and enjoys general confidence. In 1859
he was Chief of Police ; in 1861 as commander of a battalion of National
Guards he saw some military service: Being elected Senator in the Provincial
Legislature, he held his seat m the Chamber till chosen its President.
o
128 PUBLIC MEN.
Under the last administration he filled the office of GoYernment Inspector
of Railways. On the elevation of Governor Alsina to the Vice-Presidency
of the Republic, Mr. Castro, as President of the Senate, became Governor
ex'officio. Having been edacated in Scotland, he has strong sympathies
for everything English, and is of course conversant with our language.
DR. SARSFIELD, PRIME-MIlVrSTKR.
Dalmacip Vclez Sarsfield was born in Cordova about the beginning of the
present century, and received his education in the university of that city.
He has long been reputed the first jurisconsult in the country, and his
Civil Code, compiled at the request of Congress, is just published. During
various administrations he heldoflice Successively, and his name is associated
with Bank-reform and other important measures. In the last Congress he
sat as Senator for his native province. The new President on assuming
oflBce gave him the direction of the Cabinet as Mijiister of Interior. Dr.
Sarsfield claims to be descended from a distinguished Irish family : he is
well read in the judicial literature of England and North America, and his
^ name is not unknow,n in high legal circles in Germany. He is an able
speaker and writer.
DR. VARELA, FOREIGTf AFFAIRS.
Mariano Yarela, Minister for Foreign Affairs, is son of the late Florencio
Yarela, a distinguished writer, who was assassinated in Montevideo by
order of General Oribe, on account of his writings in the Comercio dtl Plata.
The brothers Hector and Mariano Yarela served their time as printers in
Rio Jaheyro ; after -the fall of Rosas they came to Ruenos Ayres and
established the Tribuna newspaper, which soon acquired the foremost place
in the press of these countries. Dr. Yarela distinguished himself no less
in Congress than as a journalist, and entered the Ministerial career under
Oovernor Alsina, as Minister of Finance for the Province of Ruenos Ayres.
The foreign merchants presented him with a gold medal for his labors im
establishing a fixed currency. He has taken a diploma as Doctor of Laws,
and is a good English scholar. He is only thirty-two years of age.
SR. GOROSTIAGA, FINAWCE.
Renjamin Gorostiaga, even before his appointment to the portfolio of
Finance, was favorably known as a political economist, having gained an
early reputation under the old regime at Parana. During his parliamentary
career in the Congress convened by General Mitre, He was always
remarkable for his clearness of viqws, and his mastery of statistical
returns. He is about sixty years of age, and has a fine estancia near
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THE NATIONAL MINISTERS. 129
DR. AVELLANEDA, INSTRUCTION.
Nicolas AvellaQeda is the sou of a respectable citizen of Tacuman, who
was Governor of that Province, until beheaded hy Rosas. He was educated
in Cordova, and came to Buenos Ayres in 1857 to study law. He had
scarcely attained hU 20th year when he was employed as editor of the
Nacianaly and named professor of civil law at the University. His work
on Public Lands, in 1865, attracted favorable notice, and Governor Alsina
appointed him Minister of Government for Buenos Ayres. His practise as
a lawyer was considerable until he embraced political life. His views on
popular education are as advanced as those of President Sarmiento. He is
conversant with French and Latin classics, and is studying English. He is
only thirty years of age, afad is a better writer than orator.
COLONEL GAINZA, WAR AND MARINE.
Martin Gainza spent his early years in Montevideo. His father was a
Colonel under Lavalle, and fought in all the campaigns against Rosas, from
1840 till the fall of the tyrant in 1852. The subject of our notice first
distinguished himself as a cavalry officer in the civil wars and the Indian
frontier service. He owns large estancias near Zarate, and was for some
years Commander-in-chief of the iSational Guards of the Province. He
served under the last administration as Inspector of Arms, and was
subsequently a candidate for the post of Governor on the . termination
of Governor Saavedrel's period of , office.
GENERAL GELLY-OBES.
John Andrew Gelly-Obes, Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief of
the Argentine army, is said to be a native either of Buenos Ayres or the
Banda Oriental, although the family appears of Paraguayan descent. His
father was.for a time Prime-Minister to the first Lopez (1852) in Paraguay,
and when the young Lopez, since President, was sent to Europe on a
diplomatic mission near the courts of St. James and the Tuilleries, Mr.
Gelly-Obes, senior, accompanied him. The subject of our- notice was
commander of the Argentine Legion in the defence of Montevideo
(1842-51), and subsequently Secretary in the War-office. During the
campaign of Cepeda^ 1859, he abandoned, for a time, his profession of
auctioneer, to assume the command of the National Guards of Buenos Ayres.
In 1861 he was made a Major-General, and gave up business. He aided
General Flores in the invasion of Banda Oriental, in 1863, and, on the
outbreak of the Paraguayan war, was removed from the portfolio of War
and Marine, to act as Chief-of-staff to General Mitre. He ^^f^WA?ffp
some active service in the campaign of Paraguay. ^'^'^'^^^ ^^ v^OOglL
130 PUBLIC MEN.
GEIVERAL PAUHERO.
WenceslsMis Paunero, Argentine Minister at Rio, is a native of Monte-
video, and began his military career in 1826 in the campaign against
Brazil. In the civil wars of 1828-36, he sided against Rosas and was
forced to take refuge in Bolivia, where he made a living as skop-absistant,
ind afterwards started a newspaper. The Montevidean Government
named him Charge d' Affaires in Bolivia, and during his residence there
he married the sister of General Ballivian (afterwards President). In 1851
he returned to the River Plate, Ao assist in the war against Rosas, and was
present at the bdttle of Caseros, 1852. He served against the Indians till
1858, and was General Mitre's Chief-of-Staff both at Cepeda and Pavon,
being made a Major-General on the latter field. He has since seen much
service in the civil war with the Chacho, the Paraguayan campaign, the
San Juan revolution, &c. He was candidate for Vice-President at the
late election, but was defeated by D. Adolfo Alsina. One of the first acts
of President Sarmiento was to confide to him the important mission that
he now holds.
l>On (lOBUERtO RIESTBA.
Norberto de la Riestra was bom in this city in 1825, of Spanish parentage,
and when young sent to England for education. He was first employed in
a commercial house in Liverpool, and afterwards sent out to tate charge
of the branch-house in his native city. His eminent financial talents soon
shewed themselves, and he was chosen for the delicate task of arranging
the Buenos Ayrean debt in London. This business he concluded so
satisfactorily that the Bonds at once rose to an unprecedented figure, and
he met'itcd the thanks no less of the Bond-holders than. of his own Govern-
ment and countrymen. In 1860 he became Finance Minister for the
Province of Buenos Ayres, and on the incorporation of this state with the
Confederation was chosen for the same office in the Cabinet of Parang.
But the rupture which soon took place with Buenos Ayres induced him to
resign the portfolio and return to this city, where the victory of Pavon
found him in his old post, and as confidential adviser of President Mitte
he is known to have steadfastly advocated the non-repudiation policy in all /
matters of public debt, the adoption of which has established our
National Credit on a firm basis. Having resigned his seat in the Cabinet,
he was soon elected Senator in the Provincial Legislature, and distin-
guished himself by his labors for the Great Southern Railway, and a scheme
for the redemption of paper-money. On the formation of the London and
Biver Plate Bank; the Board secured his ^inflaence and advice by naming t
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PUBLIC MJElf. 131
him Resident Director. Mr. Biestra may be in many respects abnost
considered an Englishman, and hi^ sympathies and regard for everything
English are well-known. We need not add that he is a strenuous friend of
immigration, and of all Anglo- Argentine enterprises. In May 1865, en
the occasion of the Paraguayan war, he was sent to London to negotiate
a loan voted by Congress, for two and a-half millions sterling : this he
concluded at 72^ per cent, although the Home Bonds of the Bepublic were
quoted at the time, at forty-four, in Buenos Ayres. Failing health
prevented his presenting his credentials as Plenipotentiary near the
Court of St. James.
DON MARUnO BALGARCE.
This gentleman is accredited Argentine Minister near the courts of
Paris, London, and Madrid, but he resides within a few miles of Paris.
He is married to the daughter of the famous General San Martin, of the
epoch of Independence. He belongs to a wealthy family of Buenos Ayres,
and is said to be very hospitable to friends or residents coming from the
Biver Plate . His last official business was in connection with the Argentine
.stall at the Paris Exhibition.
SR. POSADAS, POSTMASTfiH-GElVERAL.
ti^rvneio A. Posadas is sonof the late Supreme Director, Juan Antonio
Posadas. In his youth he spent some years in England, where he became
acquamted with many leading men, including Sir Bowland Hill and others,
fie speaks English and French fluently, and has introduced many postal
improvements, but, the revenue at his disposal is much too limited, and the
premises are wholly unsuitable. No other department shows so much
inorease as the ' Correo,' the number of letters and papers regularly
doubling every two years.
MR. o'GORMAN chief OF POLICE.
Enrique O'Gorman is descended of an old and respectable French family
whose ancestors were, of course, Irish, as the name indicates. He is an
active and intelligent official, but the present police department is a relic
x)f the old Spanish system, quite inadequate to the necessities of the time.
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132 mhvihg m sak juati.
CHAP. XII.
MIxXING IN THE CUYO PROVINCES.
SAN JUA9.
To the indomitable energy and untiring {)erseTerance of the actual
President of the Republic, H.E. Dr; Don Domingo F. Sarmiento (during his
Governorship of San Juan), is due, in a great measure, the rapid develop-
ment of the mining industry in this province. In the year 1862 he had the
mining districts examined by Major F. 1. Rickard, F.G.S., «fcc. (engaged in
Chile for that purpose), and in sight of his various reports, and impartial
statements, a Limited Liability Company was established in San Juan, with
the small capital of $1 10,000 s., destined to be the pioneer undertaking in
developing the hidden riches of Tontal, distant some thirty leagues S.S.W.*
from the city.
Although the mines of La Huerta, fifty leagues to the N.E., had been
some time previously in operation, and a crude system of smelting had been
essayed by the owners of Santo Domingo, the political disturbances and
constant changes in the administration precluded the possibility of their
being worked to advantage. The ores were rich in silver, and of a plum-
biferous nature, with a tolerably fusible gangue ; but, with such appliances
as existed at that establishment for the extraction of the precious metals,
and the want of knowledge and practice on the part of the owners or
managers, large deficits resulted instead of gain. The smelting works
were consequently aband(Mied, and the mines only kept partially worked^ ,
awaiting brighter times. Digitized by VrrOOg IC
klappeiibagh's mines. 133
Meanwhile, a Frenchman, who had been employed in the works as
smelter, erected a small blast furnace a short distance froni' the mines, on
the site now occupied by the Messrs. Klappenbach, who purchased his
miserable attempt at a metallurgical establishment, in a good round sum.
They have, however, completely remodelled it, and now possess works —
small, it is true, but still sufficiently perfect for the object for which they
are intended. The system employed is similar to the old method adopted in
former years at Pontgibaud, Puy-de-D6me, France, but now obsolete and
replaced by another far superior, by the Anglo-French Company.
As no official statistics can be obtained, it is very difficult to estimate
correctly the annual produce of silver from the La Huerta mines ; all of
which, however, passes through the Messrs. Klappenbach' s hands. Since
the year 1863, the mining industry in the district has been gradually
improving, and is still advancing. Santo Domingo has lately had some
splendid walcances)) or bunches of rich ore, with native silver visible, and
silver glance in fair abundance. The general impulse given by the Messrs,
Klappenbach is now bearing fruit, and numerous old mines are being
resttscitated and worked with profit. The annual produce of silver from
the Messrs. Klappenbach's works may be set down at about 7,000 marks
Spanish, or about 51,800 oz. Troy, whose value in Buenos Ayres may be
taken in round numbers at $70,000 s. •
The Tontal district, rich in wiry)) non-plumbiferous silver ores, is much
more abundant than La Huerta, but the nature of the accompanying gangue,
which is invariably silicious, presents many difficulties to the metallurgist,
in the course of operations necessary for the extraction of the silver. But,
in order to counterbalance, as it were, this mistake of nature, another new
district, a little to the north, was discovered in 186i, yielding abundant
supplies of galenas (sulphides of lead), as also carbonates and sulphates,
together with other combinations, all more or less plumbiferous, (ind highly
necessary as a flux or medium by which to extract the precious metals from
the refractory dry ores of Tontal. This new district is Castaflo, about
twenty-five leagues from Tontal, in a north-westerly direction towards the
Cordillera, and some fifty leagues N.W. from San Juan.
The beginning of 1864, saw the commencement of the metallurgical estab-
lishment at Hilario, belonging to the already mentioned limited company,
distant some seven leagues from Tontal and twenty from Gastano, agreeably
situated on the border of the San Juan River called at this point Los Patos.
This spot was selected by Major Rickard, the manager, as being best suited
for the works, owing to the facility of obtaining water power fbr the
machinery, the abundance of iirewood necessary for the furnaces, and
134 mhving in sah juah.
above all as being the only fertile and ioUabited valley in the Mrhole district
wherc^ pasture for animals and the necessaries of life are obtainable.
A great drawback, however, existed, namely, its isolation from all the
highways of traffic, and entire absence of anything like transitable roads.
Heavy machinery tor crushing and amalgamating the ores was necessary,
and those pieces which could not be made sufficiently light for transport
on mules, liad necessarily to be taken up on carts. Here lay the difficulty —
Hilario is separated from San Juan by three lofty ranges of mountains ; that
of Tontal, on the actual mule track, being At an elevation of 12,147 feet
above the sea. Narrow defiles and impassable gorges traversed by
mountain torrents, intercept the, route at various points, and make the idea
of forming a cart road there, the wildest dream of impossibility. This
insurmountable difficulty was however overcome by taking a very
circuitous route to the north ; and, by traversing some fifty leagues of extra
march, a road was made, partly by the Government and partly by the
Company, which, if not macadamized and level, was suffiqiently transitable
for lightly laden carts. But alas, the freight on machinery from San Juan
to Hilario almost exceeded the amount paid on it from Liverpool to
San Juan.
In April 1864 the limited Company got short of funds, and it was found
that the capital was too small. Majoij^ Bickard then came forward and
offered to purchase all the shares at par and continue the works for his
own account, with the ulterior view of forming an extensive company in
London. His offer was accepted, and towards the close of 1865 the*
Hilario works began to extract silver and silver lead in large quantities.
During about ten months of active operations some 250 tons of lead and
9,000 marks of silver were produced and remitted to Europe for
realization.
In addition to over 200 employes at the works, including wood-cutters,
eharcoal-burners, muleteers, and peones, upwards of 500 were employed
la the mines of Tontal and CastaQo, and solely in those beloi^ing to
Major Bickard.
At the same time, large numbers of m'mers worked mines on their own
account, and in all over 100 were at one time in active exploration.
Hundreds of tons of ore were produced, and lay at the mines' mouths, ready
for transmission to the works ; but, unfortunately, the means of transport
were fearfully inadequate to the production of ore, or even the require-
ments of Hilario. The furnaces alone were capable of smelting six tons
per day, and the amalgamation macliinery of passing through four tons jIc
more ; yet the daily deliveries of ore only reached about three tons on the
REVOLUTION OP 1866. . 135
ayerage. Hence, the works^ and European staff of expensive operatives^
were more than half the time idle^ waiting for ore which lay in abundance
at the mines, but could not be transported to HUario. In vain were the
rates of freight raised, until almost double their normal or just value. The
muleteers could not be persuaded or induced to abandon their accustomed
haunts on the Pampa, and bury themselves in the Andes. The industry
and undertaking were new in the province, on such an extended scale ; the
routine and habits of cejituries had been disturbed by the busy, and not to
be defeated Anglo-Saxon. Order, discipline, and industrious habits, as
engendered and exacted by Europeans in matters of business, were
distasteful to the indolent, easy-living, and independent denizens of the
South. But, alas ! in this country these are not the only evils against
which Industry has to struggle and do battle.
The spring of 1866 saw the flame of civil war and revolution kindled in
Cuyo, and the unbridled passions of the masses obtain full sway in society-
This fatal barrier to the progress of civilisation and industry, coming at a
moment so critical, served to complete the ruin of the mining prospect3 in
the province. The mines were abandoned by their owners, who fled in
numbers across the Andes, seeking refuge in Chile. The peons and
workmen fled to the towns, too eager to join in the orgies of their fellows,
and accumulate in a day, by their vandalism, more than the gains of a whole
life dedicated to honest toil ! Muleteers sought refuge in the mountain
fastnesses, amongst unfrequented streams, where suflicient pasture could
•be obtained for their mules, and in order to save them from the general
confiscation decreed by the vandalic hordes on the plains! All these
circumstances together were too much for a new industry to withstand —
and so Uilario was obliged to suspend operations. Later on, when
tranquillity was^ restored in the interior, the works were resuscitated on m
small scale, and so continued up to recently, when a new English Company
having been formed for the purpose, it proposed to take over the concern,
mines, &c., .and re-establish work on a large scale. The arrangements
are now being carried out, and thecorain^year, 1861^, will see the industry,
probably in a more advanced state than at any period heretofore. The
mines are as abundant as ever, and are capable of producing much, but
capital and intelligence are sadly wanting on the part of the owners.
In Tontal an unproductive band of blende (sulphide of zinc) has appeared
at a depth of sixty yards, and it has not as yet been passed in those mines
where actlye work is being carried on. The inducement to cut through
this mass of ore is however very great, as it is almost certain a rich deport
of precious metal exists beyond. Indeed we have almost a proof of this
^36 MIRIXG W SAW JUAN.
from old workings followed up in the province of Mendoza on same range
of mountains, where the blende has been passed and rich silver ore cut,
producing up to 500 marks per cajon (three tons).
The workings actively carried on now at Tontal are few, comparatively
speaking, but the yield of good ore is as proportionately abundant as
ever — many more mines would be worked if a convenient market could be
found for the produce; hence all are anxiously on the qui vive for the
resuscitation of Hilario by the new company «The Anglo-Argentino) with
a capital of $250,000s. (limited).
The geological formation of Tontal mineral district proper, is almost
exclusively clay-slate, and the ores raised may be divided into three
classes as follows :-^
1. Plumbiferous ores (principally galenas) yielding from 100 to 150
marks per cajon of 6i quintals, or more or less 245 to 368 ozs. Troy, to the
English ton of 20 cwt. The silver exists chiefly as Sulphide, Arsenide, and
Antimonide. This class is not very abundant.
2. Dry refractory ores or 'pinta' of the class known here as 'calido,'
containing a fair share of chloride of silver ; but they should not be
properly classed as 'calidos,' because there exist in their composition
arsenides and antimonides of silver, termed * frios ' — they also hold some
sulphates and carbonates of lead ; are fairly abundant and yield from 50
to 90 marks of silver per cajon, or 123 to 220 ozs. Troy to the English ton.
3. The same as 2nd class, but of much inferior percentage in isilver, and
almost entirely free from lead. Very abundant, and averaging from 15 to
45 marks per cajon, or from 37 to 110 onz. to the English ton.
The Castaflo district is almost the opposite to Tontal as regards the
composition of its ores. The greater part of them are highly plumbiferous, but
are wanting in richness of precious metal. They may be classed like those
of Tontal into three kinds. The geological formation of Castafto is much
broken up and confused, but the principal ore bearing rocks are porphyritic.
1. Galenas, or sulphides of lead. Very pure, holding up to 80 per
cent, of lead, and from 10 to 20 marks of silver per cajon. Abundant,
some veins over three yards 4n width. In depth, the same blende bands
have appeared as in Tontal, but unlike those, are, to some extent,
auriferous. Will probably cut good ore in greater depth.
5. Sulphates, and carbonates^ with molybdates and chromates of lead.
The former very abundant, and hold from 60 to 70 per cent, of lead, and
from 8 to 10 marks of silver per cajon, or from 19 to 24 ozs. to the ton.
3. Ferrugincous, and cupriferous silver ores proper. The former non-
plumbiferous, and holding from 10 to 30 marks per cajon, highly chargedj
klappeiibach's system. 137
with oxide of iron, which serves as a flux in furnace operations. The
latter contain some lead, and yield from 25 to 80 marks silver per cajon,
fairly abundant, but not docile in the furnace owing to the copper being
combined with manganese.
The above ores received the Bronze Medal in the Paris Exhibition, 1 867
awarded to Major Bickard. (Messrs. Klappenbach's also received a similar
reward for the ores of La Huerta.) The complete collection sent from
Hilario contained 85 specimens, and exhibited the ores in all their stages
of treatment from the crude state to the refined silver.
Having described the mining districts of the west, and their produce
we will now proceed to enumerate and give some description of the
metallurgical establishments for *beneficiating' the ores, as they exist at the
present time ; as also describe the various processes in operation, for
extracting the precious metals.
As we have already observed, the Messrs. Klappenbach employ the now
obsolete system of Pontgibaud, but, although it is no longer used at that
place, it is i;^o reason why it should not be introduced and continued here.
For we must bear in mind that, in nfearly all industrial progress — in the
interior at least — we are almost a century behind Europe. Still in some
instances, it may be preferable to use antiquated systems here, requiring
less skilled labour, and consequently less costly to carry out.
The ores^ as delivered at Messrs. Klappenbach's (and at all the works, as
a rule), are simply handpicked,and subjected to no other previous dressing;
hence it is that they contain a large amount* of foreign matter, frequently
deleterious, and undoubtedly prejudicial to the facile extraction of
the silver. Their fineness varies from lumps the size of walnuts to that
of small peas, but rarely or never finer. To this defect must be attributed
the extra trouble and cost oi smelting; for, were the ores ground and
mixed into a homogeneous mass previous to their introduction into the
furnace, the time, labour, fuel, and general cost, would be perhaps
reduced one third, and undoubtedly the results obtained in precious metal
would be materially altered in favor of the metallurgist.
As it is, a mixture of galenas with * dry ' ores is made in the proportion
of from i to I the former to i and ^ of the latter. This is introduced into
the ordinary single soled reverberatory furnace (at La Huerta) and calcined
at a low heat at first, and gradually increased, until all the volatile matters,
such as sulphur and arsenic with some of the antimony (should the ores
contain it) are driven off, when the fire is increasingly continued, and the
mass run into a liquid slag. This is run out on one side of the furnace
and when cold is broken up and carried to the deposit for calcined ore. q\^
138 ' MfNING IN SAN JUAN.
The next operation is that of smelting or fusing tliis calcined ore tvith
fluxes in the 'blast furnace.' A proportionate mixture is made for this
purpose, consisting, more or less, of say, 100 parts of calcined ore from
previous operation, 1 5 to 20^ parts of oxide of iron, and from 7 to 1 0 parts of
raw limestone. Sometimes a quantity of rich blast furnace slags is added.
This mixture is passed through an upright blast furnace (rectangular) in
intimate contact with the fuel (charcoal) which acts as a powerful reducing
agent. During the twenty-four hours, about 16 to 20 quintals of calcined
ore are smelted in each blast furnace, of the class used at La Huerta, and
the products are — a hard lead, holding nearly all the silver present in the
ore — a crude matt, or tegulus of lead and copper, with sulphur and
antimony, and slags. These latter, if poor, are thrown away ; if rich in
lead and silver are mixed with fresh portions of calcined ore, where they
serve as flux, and yield up their metallic contents on being again passed
through the furnace.
The matt being a sulphide of lead with copper and antimony, (fee,
holds invariably some silver, and is roasted in the reverberatory furnace,
either alone or with ore, and again passed through the blast.
The hard, or work lead, is taken to tlie deposit until sufficient be
accumulated to refine, say, from one to two hundred quintals.
The refining is conducted in a circular cupelling furnace (known as the
Continental system) where nearly all the lead is charged at once, and the
heat gradually raised to a bright red, when the oxidised lead or litharge is
melted and begins to flow over the surface of the metallic lead. A nozzle
of sheet iron coated with clay, is then introduced at the back of the
furnace, and a strong current of air directed over the surface. This drives
off the litharge and other impurities which keep rising and accomulatingf
by tiie oxidizing influence of heated atmospheric air. A slit is now made
on the marl furnace bottom (the top of which rises slightly above the
surface of the metallic bath around the sides), in the doorway, opposite the
blast nozzle, and the fu^ed litharge, &c., thus finding a channel, begins to
flow off slowly. This is continued until aU the lead and the greater part
of copper, iron, antimony, &c., are oxidized, leaving a plate of imj[>ure
silver on the bottom of the cupel furnace. This plate is removed when
cold, and placed in another furnace of similar construction, but much
smaller, and having a bone-ash bottom firmly beaten in, where it is melted,
and the action of the fire and oxidizing influences of the air are allowed
full scope for a sufficient time to thoroughly purify the silver. When this
is done, the furnace is allowed to cool, the solid plate removedpand is thus
sent to Buenos AyreS. Digitized by Vji ^
BABn&'S AND FKAGUEIRO'S WOKKS. 139
The Messrs. Klappenbach use bellows moved by mules, as there is not
sufficient water power available to drive a blowing machine or fan. They
have an almost inexhaustible supply of firewood in clo^c proximity to their
works, which are the only ones at present in active operation in the eastern
districts of the Province.
We will now pass to the western districts, or those of Tontal and
Castafio.
In all, there are four metallurgical establishments — ^three in operation
and one abandoned. They are respectively —
1. Messrs. Babi6 & Co., Gastafio; cost and capital invested about
$30,000 Bol.
2. Don Rafael Fragueiro, Calingasta ; say $2,000 Bol. ; abandoned.
3. La Sorocayense, Don Anjel Riera ; about $15,000 Bol.
4. Hilario, Major F. Ignacio Rickard (Anglo-Argentine Co., Limited) ;
cost and capital invested $400,000 Bol.
(1). Messrs. Babi^ & Co.'s works are situate close to the Castaflo mines,
on the river of that name, and are exclusively smelting works^, on precisely
the same principle as those of La Huerta, having been originally built by
an ex-employ6 of that establishment. They consist of two small blast
furnaces — a wretched attempt at a calcining or reverberatory furnace —
and, ditto, cupelling or refining furnace. They have a horizontal water
wheel, with about eight feet head, and may get, perhaps, 6-horse power
effective. Their blowing apparatus was formerly two pairs of bellows,
but now consists of an ordinary flat-bladed circular fan, incapable o^
producing a sufficiently strong blast, owing to its faulty gearing and
unsteady movement of the driving wheel or drum, which is sixteen feet in
diameter by six inches wide, driving with a three-inch belt on to an inch
and a-half pulley, fixed on the axle of the fan ! Their annual production
of silver will scarcely reach 2,000 marks, and much loss erf precious metal
must be sustained from the imperfect and careless system pursued about
the works. Their proximity to the Castafio mijjes and firewood are,
however, their great redeeming points, and thus they are enabled to work
with comparative advantage.
(2). The works of Don Rafael Fragueiro were only capable of treatmg
ores by amalgamation, hence only those known as «calidos)) or holding
chlorides, chloro-bromides, bromo-iodides, or native silver, could be
treated with advantage, and as few of the ores of the district contain their
silver exclusively in these combinations, the speculation, in a commercial,
as well as metallurgical pomt of view, # was a failure. They ^^f^T^aJe
completely abandoned, and the old amalgamation barrels may ^e seeiro
HO MmiNG IN SAW JUAN*
Strewn about on the heaps of relaves or tailings, becoming every day more
useless from exposure to the scorching sun and dry atmosphere of this
elevated valley.
(3). La Sorocayense. — ^Leaving Sefior Fragueiro's works, and proceeding
south up the valley of Barrial or Calingasta, about three leagues distant, is
situate Hilario, and about two leagues still furthei^ south in the same
valley, on the Tontal road, are situate the works enjoying the rather unique
and to many unintelligible name above expressed. Its derivation is
traceable to the system of amalgamation used, and which has its origin in a
small place in Bolivia named Sorocaya.
The system employed is properly amalgamation; but the ores are
previously subjected to a species of calcination with common salt, having
for its ostensible object the conversion of the silver into chloride, and thus
rendering it extractable by amalgamation with mercury. This end is not,
however, by any means satisfactorily attained, owing to the nature of the
ores treated; still, a fair amount of silver is extracted, averaging about six
marks, or forty-five ounces, daily. The ore is ground very fine by edge-
runners, and passed through a sieve having 3,600 holes to the square inch,
after "{vhich it is calcined for from five to eight hours in a reverberatory
furnace, with about five per cent, of common salt, at a very low temper-
ature, and kept constantly turned and stirred to prevent agglutination. It
is then withdrawn, and when cold, is charged into an oblong trough about
twel,ve feet by four, and four deep, accompanied by mercury, where it is
gently agitated by a cylinder having a horizontal motion, and kept in
intimate contact with the mercury for several hours ; when finished, the
mass of ore (called tailings) is Avashed off by water and conveyed into large
pits or deposits, where it is allowed to settle, and is again, when dry,
subjected to a further calcination, in case it should have retained sufficient
silver to pay expenses of treatment. The mercury in the trough, now
charged with silver, is drawn off and strained through canvass bags, in
which a rich amalgam of silver, combined with about six times its weight
of mercury, remaiifs. This is subsequently pressed hard, and placed in an
iron retort, connected with a condensing apparatus, where the remaining
mercury is distilled off by heat and recovered, leaving the now almost pure
silver in a beautiful white porous mass, which may be fused into ingots
and sent to market, this silver is, however, rarely so pure as that obtained
by smelting the ores with galena, and refining the argentiferous lead.
(4). Tlilario. — These works are situate in the valley of Calingasta, Tontal
district, thirty-three leagues S.S.W. by W. from San Juan city, and forty-
eight leagues N.N.W. from Mendoza, in lat. 31 c^g..^20min., S., andlong^
HILARIO MINITIG WORKS. 141
69 deg. 90mia. W. from Greenwich, at an elevation of 5,624 feet above
sea level, are the largest metallurgical works in the Republic, and adapted
to both systems, smelting and amalgamation. The machinery for the latter
was made by Messrs. John Taylor and Sons of London, and consists, in part,
of barrels on the Freyberg system, and * tinas ' on the Chilian system.
The full working power or capacity of both, may be set down at ten tons
of crude ore in the twenty-four hours. The motive power is a large
turbine with thirty-three feet head, and discharge pipe two feet six inches
in diameter. The effective horse-power may be set down at ninety-five.
To this turbine is also geared the grinding machinery, edge-runners and a
small extra blowing fan.
But by far the largest and most important part of the works is dedicated
to the smelting and refining with their attendant ore, charcoal and wood
deposits. The ground actually occupied by the establishment covers over
twelve acres, not including the houses, stores, &c., for peones, occupying a
street without the works.
The system of smelting followed at Hilario has some resemblance, as a
whole, to Messrs. Klappenbach's, but is, in detail, very different. It is in
fact as nearly as possible the same as the present improved system carried
out at Pontgibaud, France, managed by Messrs. J. Taylor & Sons,
the celebrated mine agents of London. The ores, mixed in certain
proportions, are calcined ' dead ' in a reyerberatory furnace of peculiar
construction having a ^ double ' sole, on one of which is completed the
agglomeration and fusion into a liquid slag, care being taken that no
reduction to metallic lead takes place. The smelting or fusion of this
roasted ore is conducted in the class of blast furnaces known as the
Castillian furnace, having three *tuyeres^ and large capacity. Each furnace
is capable of smelting, of tolerably fusible ore, up to six and eight tons in
the twenty-four hours with a consumption of about sixty quintals <^
charcoal. Two sets of three men are employed at each furnace in shifts
of twelve hours each set, and are paid — the foreman (English) ^60 B. a
month, the second hand $30 B. , and the third $20 B. per month ; all without
rations, but with house accommodation and fuel.
The blowing machine is a powerful fan five feet in diameter, driven up
to 1800 revolutions per minute by a twenty-five horse power turbine,
with 33ft. head and 2ft. lin. diameter discharge pip6. The wind from this
&n is sent to different parts of the establishment, partly in pipes and partly
by cemented brickwork flues, so as to be available for the silver lead
refining furnaces and the forge fires.
The argentiferous lead produced from the Castillian furnace, being hard^joQlc
142 MIMIlfG 15 SAIf JUAIf.
is first ' improved * or softened in an improving furnace of the reretr
beratoTjT clasd, and when freed from any copper, antimony, arsenic, or
;ron, which may have been reduced with it, is refined direct on a bone-ash
cupel or test by what is known as the English system, silver is thus
obtained by one cupellation up to 995-thousandths fine.
I should here observe that Pattinson's process of crystallising out pure
lead and concentrating the silver for refining, as practised at Pontgibaud
and other works, is not used at Hilario. But this omission is by no means
prejudicial ; on the contrary, very little; if any, advantage would be derived
by its adoption there, because the argentiferous lead produced direct from
the blast furnace averages over one per cent of silver, and it is a recogniied
fact that any attempt at enriching lead, by Pattinson's process, beyond
2 per cent, has commercially failed. Hence the concentration is rarely
carried beyond this figure, and. the system is only adapted where there
are large quantities of poor lead produced, ^vhich would be unprofitable to
refine direct.*
At Hilario there are three furnaces of the reverberatory class, with one
refining fdmace on the English system, and two Gastillian blast furnaces.
The ore deposits are capable of storing over a thousand tons, divided into
compartments with tiled floors, and numbered. Each compartment having
its Dr. and Gr. account in a separate book for entries from mines and
deliveries to the furnaces, hence at a glance it may be determined what
stock remains on hand, and how xnuch has been worked up, without the
trouble of re-weighing.
. The Chemical Laboratory for analysis and assays by the humid method
is a complete department in itself, and most perfectly fitted up.
In succession follows the weighing room with its fiaie assay balances
indicating up to the 1000th part of an English grain ; also large bullion
balances for weighing the silver in ingots, with the corresponding sets of
stamping numbers and letters in steel for marking their weight and
fineness. Next to this room is the assay laboratory proper, with its rows
of miniature furnaces and muffles, for assaying and experimenting on the
ores by the 'dry' methods; here, when in full work, up to 100 assays
are made daily. «
In the same range of buildings are the carpenters-shop and smithy,
separate, for all sorts df repairs and' work necessary about the establish-
ment. Turning lathes, drilling machines, and the various tools necessary
for mechanical engineering, may be seen about, for, being isolated as the
works ar^, in the heart of the Andes, it is essential to have all these
conveniences for any emergency which might arise.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
HILARIO MIIilKG WORKS. i43
The wood *cancha* for piling the fuel for the furnaces is extensive and
conveniently situate on a slight elevation above the reverberatory furnaces,
for only in these is crude wood used. On a lower level, in a large open
space, may be seen the immense, Noah's ark shaped, mounds of wood
charcoal, as prepared for the blast furnaces. Each pile is 200 feet long by
18 feet wide and 12 feet high, composed chiefly of algarroba andrctamo
wood, laid longitudinally and evenly, with their ventilating flues beneath,
so as to graduate the admission of atmospheric air, and thus govern the
slow combustion of volatile gases in order to produce good charcoal. This
branch of operations at Hilario requires almost as much study and care as
any other, although apparently so simple and common-place. The wood
when well charred, produces about 30 per cent, of hard, solid, shining
charcoal, but if carelessly prepared the produce is much reduced, and the
quality, as a caloric and reducing agent, seriously deteriorated. The
mounds of wood are overlaid with long grass or reeds (totora) and covered
with earth. The time necessary to burn one of these mounds varies from
eight to fifteen days, and requires other fifteen days careful attention to
extinguish.
The charcoal, delivered at the fui'nacei house, costs 50 cents per quintal
of 100%, made by contract with natives who cut and carry the wood from
the camp, preferring to make it at the works ; although apparently much
more advantageous to them to make it where the wood ii^ cut, and
thus reduce the weight carried by 70 per cent.
The manager, however, prefers the charcoal made at the works, as in the
first place it is produced under his immediate supervision, and is delivered
almost intact, thereby avoiding the waste of a large percentage of small
coal, UAalij useless, and highly Injurious in the blast furnace.
The manufacture of firebricks, also forms a most important feature in
the works; for were it necessary to import from Europe or Chile tliis
indispensable and largely consumed article, the cost would be very great.
Fire^^lays abound in the neighbourhood, and by a careful selection, the
mixture used at Hilario, affords a very excellent refractory brick, well
suited for lead furnaces.
They are made by dry pressure, and some turned out during the present
year at a cost of ^20 Bol. per^ thousand have been used in a blast furnace
which ran 178 days without a single brick having to be replaced. The
cost of best Stourbridge fire-bricks (Ruffords) imported from England and
placed at Hilario, is about 40 cents each, or ^400 per thousand.
Beyond the immediate precincts of the works but forming part of the
property are several houses,^in which are general dry goods aiwl provisiott^l^
144 MINIIfG m SAIV JUAN.
stores, baker's and butcher's shops, as also a cafe or hotel with billiard
room, &c., rented to outsiders, and forming a most essential part of the
establishment. When in full work, the concourse of miners, employes,,
ore vendors, muleteers, ifec, which accumulate, is sometimes astonishing,
and the occupiers of these houses make a fair business on their own
account. Some distance from the works is a grass farm rented for the
use of the animals required about the establishment.
The tariff for the purchase of silver ores, delivered at Hilario, is as
follows (Bolivian currency) : —
From
20
to
30 1
(narks
per
cajon
of
Si quintals
S3.50
Do.
31
to
40
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
4.00
Do.
41
to
50
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
4.75
Do.
51
to
60
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
5.50
Do.
61
to.
70
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
6.00
Do.
71
to
80
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
6.25
Do.
81
to
90
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
6.50
Do,
91
to
100
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
6.75
Do.
101
to
150
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
7.25
Do.
151
to
200
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
7.50
Do.
201
to
300
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
7.75
Do.
301
to
400
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
7.87i
Do.
401
to
600
do.
do.
do,
do.
do.
8.00
Do.
601
to
800
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
8.12i
Do.
801
to
1000
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
8.25
Do.
1000
upi
wards
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
8.50
Per mark of pure silver.
The Messrs. Babi6 & Co.'s tariff differs considerably from the above as they
base their calculations on a different system of working. They deduct, in
the first place, from every caJon of fifty quintals fourteen marks of the
silver contained therein, and pay for the remainder at the rate of ^lObol.
per mark of pure silver, according to assay.
MEIfDOZA.
Although this Province, 'during Spanish rule, was celebrated for its
mineral wealth, and large quantities of silver were annually extracted
from the ores produced in the Paramillo de Uspallata, it has so degenerated
in metallurgical and mining enterprise, that were it not for a few energetic
aind persevering individuals, now toiling in the old mines of that district^
it scarcely merits a passing notice in this work. ^ t
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
THE PARAMILLO MIHKS. H5
In the year 1865, the Paramillo mines were visited by the GoTemment
lftspe^0^i 9mu»VlJl (IbaQr BickArd); ted aftcAr a carafld i^ikmtnttmi he
resolved to make a few trials, by cottiag ih |r#eM 'd6|itti; hf i^iibst oi adit
leveljS|^ fton^f^ 9{jl;^tHBld[Hrated!0^d teiOf whicii prodocied.iiGbohelu fevmer
tiniea. ^t^ioi^^vri^^'c^smmaticed in oompady vftitii Poii.S«8tei|iiiid
ViUanaey9>ar?sidQi||;jtl|»rd»and op to the rbredLiig ooiofHiereTohltidd
in 1^6^, theiworiuogs produced fairly, althoogh not yet into the^wdtittn^
of the Spianiards. . Qf coarse aU vaa paimlysed duviof this f ederids' <way^
fuid Mv. Villanueva was^ QbUgedp like many olhers, to aciek refuge in QWIt
in order to save 1^ throat Md Us pnvse. WUlst i»thd sister veptibUc M
iQrmed tl^e acquaintance of Senor Pokt AbtoBt6 dd Cknto, a GhiJiaii nriner
and copper smelter of much <eAperienne^ irtioni</he iodueed to<)DaieoVinr
and examine the mines. ; j. :.'*!..
Baolyin 18&7 operations were commenced by these mt^tf, Mtlciwitig np
the adiM oommenoedin 1866, and re-establishiftg variott^old wiirtSnjjd on
dtber veins, inelading some copper deposits. ^ Sefior del Canto formed' ihcl
pngect pf smeltii^ e(q>per ores at the mines, attd {Nrod^iiSg, by a proper
adquiLtnre pf the silver . ores, an argentiferous *f^:ulus df cK^ppii^y infiA6h
^^pmwands a Ugh price in Eorope. This idea had the id^lMtij^l?, if
realized, of utilizing the. immense quantities of poor sfl^i^*<>i^, %hidi
in tfceir crude state are almost valueless ; the high rates of flr^ight, to tt
available market, rendering their export eommeroially Itiiposstble^ Wk
object was, therefore, to concentrate, by a series of fusions With copper
ore^, the silver contained in them, and thus* ndsed fe a high staadard/ in
^mall bulk, realize them with profit. l * [
Many difficulties, natural to the district and country, generally presented
themselves, but with praiseworthy determination, this industrious Chilian,
we are glad to say, has sb far, surmounted them. The weary Andine
traveller is now relieved ctf the tiresome monotony presented by barren,
desolate wastes, on his route to Chile, by the sudden and almost magical
Appearance of a well constructed copper ftimaffe, %ith its slender chiitiAey,
towering some 40 feet above the mountain gorge, and the orderly, civflised
aspect of a neat row of buildings perched on the side of a Steep hill.
The great drawback of the undertaking is the scarcity of fuel ; very
little wood, or more properly brushwood, is to be found on the barren hills
in the vicinity. But Ittr. CiTuto has determined to' utilise as an auxiliary
fuel, the bituminous shales (erroneously termed coal by the natives) which
abound within a few yards of his furnace grate. These hold about 25 to
30 per cent, ot combustible matter, but the immense accumulation of ash
* o
146 MEI«DOZA MIAE^.
W ibfiifcfft^MrsijTRftieri it A^mbflt trlRihiestiiim^iiiA4 imata^ m\X^t to
}ffffp\fJL^^^I^^ .( h'.tv,;ti, ..A.M.) !. /:.
-]Mffk« nteidtof tiii firrit)tqialft,>iWitIiithib-fo^Ii^>'W, Mfi^t^iiSfed hrm to
ih^iuAmin d6it)alr:the idca;of usibg it; ttft Urier oil; Aeeli^lfy tfl^iged 6fm
iPtMfeft toM AgAfaiv auri /iwerkre hotrmfbnflied'thcit by ^iii^ 50^i^ c^bt.
^riTVMdrbe'^i^M^ tttttinttdn i godd! tem^eraiure. ' H^ kas to adopt tifo bre
p)4i9^ iHTr^ack fiknuoe;' fte tae permafaketft for ir6od, and the other
SMtl^able and fuMherdh, fxx the shale. I^ils, "wliea a grate full of thlb stuff
l^.gififQp 0{f all its'^ombottibfe matter^ thb bdlk still rettaining the same,
|kQ;i9. obliged )t9reiiioif^ lUa ters! bbdUj^, and diitoha^ge the useless slates
liW)^<a^h^)l to tnaketoomfbr another <^ar^e. •'^ '
fie has already produced a fair amount of argentiferous copper reguius
hf^Id^/l.^.mafk^ per oaJAH^for 368 ozs. silver to Ike tqn, With ttomSA to
^0 P^i^iCff^ of 'copper^^ Th^s; sellp in Valparaiso (at the present tinie) for
^t)9^|^SkWr^^^' pair cajpnof ^ity-four quifitalS) and conseqaiewtlj pays -wdll^.
^y;pVi^n)in\fig4>pep»ti«M proper, have of late prodiK^d some Tery^i?ich ore,
)P>^ old^|iVki))gSfCSomnieni)edt4u lS65.byfMa§ov Biek«rd, ivitfathd View'of
{ps^siagiJth^Bliiprfidu^ife jbtende bands (similar to those of < Tontiftl) Wh^e
tl^f7#A^'fH^^^^^^' ^^^ ^ » ^Rir'abundanoe, bddin^^ofer u tlMusand ouAees'
ffttbf tp^ -t^^ bearmgitrntithd theory of fexpeeted riches;, -in AepthvOtt'the
^|}fptal toiles.Miblcbieiiiist Otti thesaaie range further north^ audin somewhttt
i|i;^j^|oi»aatio|i|j', ^,-' ., (\ , ^'. '•''■■ '* - • ''' !'•■
in "^jerilnf tKiCbeiktic^^ that Messrs. Canto and VillanuieVa haV6
some $20,000 Bol. worth of rich ore, now on surface, aSmting the Opening
pf^ tj^e Gumbr/s pass to remi^.to GbiJI^, They have some 200 mitters
ijpiother^ employed in the ParapiiUo^ together wito ^abcHit tl^pnty miners
onr a copper ore yein some thirty leagues sputh of 'Meotdo^a, whence they
ijre obliged t^ bring the necessary fluxes ;fw: smeltiogy and form the
jregulus at ^he works in- the Paramillo. . *
%he capital invited in Ajbi^ing in Menidota at the present day does not
]excee(jL^$50,000JBol.,rbut should the ParamUlo wdries continue to improvef,
it is ro^sonable to expect a prpportiopiate increase in speeolative enterprise.
ThefParai|[iiUo mines and works are situated about twenty-three leagues
W.N.'W. troifi Meudoza^ on the high road ^o Chile,, yiA UspaUata and La
Cumbre pass. Their elevation above the seais mpt less than 10,000 feet,
and the cold, nearly the whole year rounds is most intense. '
The only potable water a.vailable, near the works, are two small springs,
which are made the most of by accumulating their water in large iosA:^ of
solid masonry. r Digitized by ^IC
Tlie soutli of ' tl;e ProviWi^ i^ UH lo %e\ety nth in minerals, bat tlie
TadiiiDs take' f^ood dare ttia't' Ih^ir ^ ^teJ't ikory ^ 'is iiot TiolateJl 'l>y the lAlu te
man ; hence ^ the Hidden treasures'' of the ^akh hi tlicise districts must
remain to tempt the cupidity of a future and more adventurous race* A
specimen from Saii Rafael, latetj found, lias proved ou eKamiaation by
Major Rickard, to be a new species: it holds 70 per (ient: of copper
combined with ailtimdny.' ^ ^ " ••>».:
Extensive deposit's of an impurfe petroleum exist about seventy leagues
from the city, south, but from their isdlat^d potion rod want of roads,
must for the present remain commercially worthless.
SAN LUIS.
Tlie only mining indiistry^ at present developed, in this ProvitK^e, is gold
digging and washing, if we iexcept a puny attempt at copper smeltitij lately
essayed by a German, who, we are toldj tried to make an auriferous rcgnlus
of copper by direct fusion of carbonates, silicates and 6%idc^sWthat metal,
having (we suppose) forgotten the important sulplmroui compound.
We have no authentic data as to'^the \*aiueof gold prodiiced at the present
day: but according to ofiScial returns corresponding to the yeat" ! 865, it
appears that there were 1^7 miners employed on eight mines, tAid had
produced 800 marks of gold, valued at $89,600 b'ol.
Wp are informed that som? very productive quartz veins k're how being
worked ny si few Ciiilian mining adventurers, and with' faii' returns * but as
tkiey ha v^ only re^cently begun, no correct idea can yet^ be 'fbrmed of the
enterprise.
The gold yusually produced from the washings is of a vefy'infekbt onality,
rarely passing .750 pure gold 'i^ a thoUsiilid, ther TCmainflft'g 1250 being
mostly silver. ' ;^ 1' . " ^
The jniiiing districts^i^re situate towards the north of the' Pirovince,
distant from twelve to eighteen leagues from the capital. ''^' ' ' •
Ia conclusion, thtre exists a vast field for speculative enterpi*ise in the
Cuyo Provinces, where the industry may be said to be yet irt it« fsifancy.
And, with the bright prospects of national prosperity, advancement,
civilization, and peace, which the Republic now enjcws, beneath the popular
rule of her distinguished president, the fullest dev^lopmeint of her hidden
treasures is to be hoped and looked for. ^' '
His Excellency, Governor Sarmiento, initiated the pioneer mining
enterprise in San Juan. His Excellency, President Sarmiento, is still in
time to prune and train up the tender * vine-shoot,^ and by the genial sun
of his protecting influence, make it bear the much desired fruit. ^
l2
148 klappehbacq's mdudiq report.
^e has already , w€ believe, taken rq |i|i[K>i^Rnt ^tep4n tbU direction, by
'Qaim|ig a person to proceed in qommisBioa thcouffh r]! the provipces aiid
report e^tensiveljr on the mtnerHjl resporces of thecpuntry. Once this
report bliall have been hBuded in to the Gover^ipent, important projects
will be laid before Congress, tending to the development^ not only of the
mining, but other staple industries of the Republic. ,
F. iGftAClO BiCKARD, F.G.S., &C., &C. ^
Government Inspector General of Mines.
HUario, Sru Juan, October 12, 1868. i
. THE SAN JUAN MINING AND SMELTING WORKS.
In September 1864 M€)ssrs. F* S. I^lappenbach commenced their operations
in mines and the construction of the Argentino Smelting Works in the
Mineral de la Huerta, distant thirty-five leagues from San Juan and seventy
leagues from Cqirdova.. Lat. 31.30, Long. 67.16 W. of Greenwich.
The establishment had been in course of construction since 1865, and now
in the beginning of this year all the necessary works have been completed.
In its present condition 40 cajones or 100 tons of ore can be smelted in
the establishment, per month.
The. situation is one of the most favorable for the enterprise, being
surrounded on all sides to a distance, of twenty leagues by woods. Also
4here exist in the immediate neighbourhood, deposits of coal, iron, lime,
salf , ^lay for lir^bficks, and otiier necessaries.
The result of the smelting^ during the construction of the establishment
lias been as follows : —
In 1865^ .... 1 446 marks of pure silver.
In 1866, .... 4766 do., do., do.
In 1867, ..,. ,.•. , 6201 do., do., do.
In 1868, 6589 do., up to August.
and 3200 qq. of lead.
The jprodace of this year would have been considerably greater had it
not been for the total paralyzation of the works for three months during
fee prevalence of the cholera.
The mines continue increasing in richness as they proceed, and the ores
jvhich are principally composed of «galenas)) give even the highest ley of
)ilver with small quantities of native silver.
The comniofljiey of all the ores received and smelted in the establishment
Was up to 1866 fifty-five marks of pure silver to the cajon (or 50 qq.) of
Jre, equal to 17fi oz. silver to one ton of ore. ^^^^^^ ^^ GoOgk
KLAPPEIVBACH'S COMPANY.
1^
In 1867, sixty-two marks pare silver, equal to 198 oz. to one ton of ore ;
and the ley has increased this year to seventy-six marks pure silver to the
cajon, equal to 272 oz. of pure silver to one ton of ore.
Messrs. F. S. Klappenbach and Co. have lately changed their society into a
company in Buenos Ayres called the «San Juan Mining and Smelting Co.,»
capital $23D,000s., divided into 230 shares of $1,000 s. each.
The following gentlemen form the Board of Directors, &c. —
Constant $anta Maria, President.
F. Wanklyn,
H. Ebbinghaus,
H. Heberard,
J. Aldao,
A. Scharff,
F. S. Klappenbach,
Director.
do.
do.
do.
Secretary.
Manager in S. Juan.
The future of the company is most promising, entering as it does into a
field of action already explored and prepared for it, in which it will have
but to reap the fruit. - ^ '
The mines of La Huerta, whose^ichness and abundance are well
recognised, only require hands to give brilliant results, giving new
elements of greatness and prosperity to the country, and at the same time
offering scope for the formation of new and greater undertakings.
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Google
150
HISTOEY kVP lITEftATORK.
! ■ :
)
1
. 1
I.; /
.i.
CHAP, XilL ' ''Vj,/' ,.;, ,.',^ , :
' • ■ ' ■'/>.■. ...1 f I '• I 'I-- ' i 1 ',.■;
HfSTORY AlHD LITEBATURE OF RITER PLATE. '
HISTORICAL ItBGOBD ;! .' t ' H. , ,,; . ,,
1515 — River Plate discovered by Juan Diaz de Solis.
1527 — Sebastian Cabot explores the ParanA and Uruguay.
1530 — Buenos Ay res founded, under invocation of the Holy Trinity.
1531 — The fort and settlement destroyed by the Indians.
1535 — Second foundation by Pedro de Mendoza : also destroyed.
•1537 — Asuncion del Paraguay founded by Ayola.
15i4 — Irala greatly extends the Spanish dominions.
1553 — Santiago del Estero founded by Aguirre.
1555 — Arrival of the first bishop, Francisco la Torre.
1559 — Garcia de Mendoza founds Mendoza and San Juan.
1565 — Villaroel founds Tucuman.
1573 — Cabrera founds Cordova.
1573 — Juan de Garay founds Santa F& city.
1580 — He marks out the city of Buenos Ayres, June 1 1th.
1 582 — ^Lerma founds Salta,
1 588 — Corrientes founded by Alonzo de Vera.
1591 — Velazco founds Rioja, and, in 1592, Jujuy.
1 596 — Loyola founds San Luis. C^i^r^n]o
Digitized by VrrOOg IC
HISTORICAL RECORD. 151
1609 — ^Jesuit missions of Paraguay founded by Padres Mazeta and
Cataldini. . i) :-' w ; n .i> mI ;» .iii-^. ' f-i/Il' -'i"*-.'! '■*'^I
1622 — Jesuit missions doQgtbiSMiqfkerUnMgnaQn.^' Ji H it hImc^ f ' i
1628— PauUsta India9f ^ariJrjrtoff 60t,^.o^fUifmdtomiMiBkm(n>. '^
1680— Colonia founded by the^ Oprtoeadse^ :| .;; r ' . ni ! ' " '
\7^-r-V(^t^\x^eqiowi^i^jj^^ Boenos^iAqft^s.- j ^
1730— Spain cedes Hisiones tai P^trtugaL) UdiaH settletfleiitd^oken'^p.
1767 — ^Expulsion of th^./i^uits ; rd«staiicti€b.f|£ tbeUislotie^/ ' ^ ^
1776 — Viceroy alty of Buenos Ayres created, sunder Peldro d^ IfebaliW.
1782 — Census; Buenos Ayres territory,. 1 70^83!) inhKbit'dnts, itind
Paraguay 97,480.... . . i ■ : \ ... :r -../ ." .' ; • :-'- "*;'
18Q6— ^Epe^isti ii^Y^ioo^ilKijder Geneiral Beresford, wUp oa|)itttl'ikes. ' '
1807 — Second invasion, under General Whitelocke, who also caplt^^ibH^^i
1808 — Liniers named yiae^oy. . ^ - Ii ■ ' ""*
t810 — ^Revolutioki of Buenos Ayres, May 25th. : - ^ ^
• 1811 — ^Belgrano iAy^ddSiPoaragtiay, and ^aj^itulates J ■' ;^
1 8 1 2— He beats the Spaniards at Tudmiuin and Salta. * - '
1 8 1 4 — SpanisI^ garrison expelled friwiMoiitevide'o. . ' ^ * '^
1815— Campaign of Artigas in BandrfMitotal, I-!' - • '^ '''
18 16— DeclaratioiXi pf \ Argitttine Indepeiulenct /at< liwtma&Uy Shij 9t&l
1818 — General San Martin beats the Spaniards at Maypu, and eman-
cipates ChUe. - ■ "^ ^'^'^^-^ • ' ''' n.-.i.M .■■:. n
. 1821— Hq liberates Iton^andtoteirs Limaihtiiiimjfh. : ' '
1821— Banda Oriental auifcexed to Brtzil. inlu it.u:) ^'^ •/ .n m/
1825---*eYoluttonofIjaxdlejaandthirty4wd6tber^ ' r , i IH
1825— Fructos Rivero beats theBr^lians at RiheoiilGallilMisr ''' '' ' ^^
1826— rBUQuos Ayreb declares war against Brazil. / ^M'- .''• '^^ 'I'ithUJf
1826— AdrndrdiBro^n chastises the BrAriliaas. • - «'i -^ *•'' - ' ^'''^
1826 — ^Rivadavin intrddudes riiany reforms. ..>i 'J ". iiil :^ib/f
1827— AlyewrbQat^tbelBraziliatls atltuiain^o. n>r w/l - i v ]j I
4§29TT^B«aril giyies.iip^Btoda Oriental, dnd makes peacell hv>i) i i/ri i
1828— rEtiglatd giUtanfaSfiS the indeptodoM^iftf JtandfiOtitlJtalofl-- - ^
1830to 18527rtfiyiliiWlars,)and^;yramiyofBosa»v ;:; f; :i - 1 l^iii//
1 852— Rosas overthrown by Urquita. . i.- \ /v / . : i ;i : j * > ; • ^J
' 1853— UDquita. expelled f rote BueiiosAynBafii:, .' i ' ^^
1856— IntroduiBtioiiof ga»^ I . ^^..j i ..J - :• A *' J •" il ' * . '
1887-nWjB8tflrn Railway inauguratedi^ittoeikrtciaithtfteifidnEtifttoJ.f. -11
l859-rTfiattleofiCep€jd*:» BueKes Ayres icapitjulntes/ . ;: -ui-. i i
I860— Buenos Ayre$ r^fMters tbe-ArgeWkie Coafedftratirti;" :- i: >
1861— Dreadful earthquake at Mendoza. i . ,i ' 1 . ■*
, ; .Digitized by vjOOQI^
152 WORKS ON THE RIVER P(^TE. ,
1861— Battle of Pavon : gaiaed by General Mitre. *
1862— Northern BaUwAjfVfw&bcoQUiiMicied. ' '
1 862— «;eiie^ VOLre unanimodslt elected Pr^deiit .
1863— Flores invades the BandaiWental. • '
1863— Immgnraticai of Central Argeatine Railway works at Rosario.
lfl|64-^Braia invades the Banda Oriental.
1 864 — Southern BaUway, to Cbascomus, begun.
1865— Mc^eyjjieo surrenders.
1865-rP«ragiiay declares war.
1865 — Boca and Ensenada Railway opened to Barracas.
1866 — The Allied army (Argentines, Brazilians^ and Oritotals) invade
Paraguay*
1866 — Electric cable laid across tlie Biver Plate.
1867— Siege of HumaitA. .
1867 — Govemmentrhouse at Buenos Ayres twice burned.
1868 — General Flores murdered at Montevideo. ,
1 868-^ Paraguayans abandon HmMk^. >-
1868 — Water-works begun at Bttettbs Ayres. ' i '
]868T-I)oa Doningo F. Sarmienfo elected President.
V . -i • ' . ' . J • * ■ ■
WORKS PUBLISHED OH THE RIVER PLATE.
. Schmidel's ConquHslJ of La Plata, ia 1534. Nuremberg, 1 559. » ' ' ^ - i
Alvaro Nufiez's Commentaries. Madrid, 156d. > *• *'
History of Paraguay vbd La Plata. By Buy Diaz4e GuzmaUi 1572k >
Jesuit HissiQtt$: By Gharleroix and (xuevara. <
Belation of B. M.'s Voyage to Buenos Ayres, &c. London, 1716. o .^
Muraturi's missions. (English translation). London, 1759. >^ < -
Father Faulkner's Patagonia, in Latin. England, 1774. " ^ •*•
Letters from Paraguay. By John G. Davie. London, 18«9. *^
Travels from Bneao9 Ayoes t)o Lima, &c. By A. Z. Helms. London, 1806*
Tice-BoyaHy of Buenos Ayres. By Sam. H. Wilcocke. London^ 1807.
Whitelocke^s Expedition. ByanOfiOcer. London, 1808^. ' ^
Bio de la Plata. By Felix Azara. Paris, 1809. <> -
Dean Funes's History of Paraguay, &c. Buenos Ayres, 1816. :
Captain Head's Bide Across the Pampas. London, 1838.
Humboldt's Travels in South Aiherica. Price, 125. 6d. London, 168 k
The Clhaco and Bio Yernejb. By Axenales. Buenos Ayres, 1833.^
Gastelnau's Expedition to South Anterica. Paris, 1826. ^
Plata— Staaten. ByKerst. Berlin.
Bobertson's Letters on Paraguay. Edinburgh, 1838. Digitized by GoOqIc
WORKS on THE BIVER PLATE. 153
Pedro de Angelis's Records of Buenos Ajres. Buenos Ayres, 1839.
Robertson's Francia's Beign of Terror. London, 18iO.
Id., Letters on South America. . Londbn, 1843.
Besearches by Fitzroy and Darwin. London, 1844.
M'Gann's Adventures in the Pampas. Dublin, 1846.
Colonel King's Souvenirs of Buenos Ayres. ^New York, 1847.
D'Orbigny's Scientific Travels. Paris, 1847.
Buenos Ayres, from the Conquest. By Sir W-. Parish. London, 1852.
Map of the Bepubllc of Uruguay. By General Beyes. Montevideo, 1853.
Mansfiield's'Paraguay and Biver Plate. London, 1854.
La Province de Bnenos Ayres. Par Heusser et Claraz. Zurich, 1834.
• Commander Page's La Plata. New York, 1856.
Celebridades Argentinas. Buenos Ajres, 1859.
La Confederation Argentine. By M. de Moussy. Paris, 1860.
The Argentine Republic. By Colonel Du Graty. Brussels, 1861 .
Republic of Paraguay. By the same. Brussels, 1862.
M'Coil's Guide to Montevideo. Price^35. 6d. London, 1862.
WnchclifTs South American Sketches. Price, 125. 6rf. London, 1862.
Handbook to the River Plate. By M. G. & E. T. Mulhall. Buenos
Ayres, 1863.
Bideatd's Journey Across the Andes. Price, 75. 6d. London, 1863.
Historia Argentina. By Dominguez. Buenos Ayres, 1864.
Burtaeister's Travels in the Provinces. Berlin, 1864.
. Alberdi on tjie Argentine Bepublic. Paris, 1864.
Pillado's Guia de Buenos Ayres. Price, $50 m^. Buenos Ayres, 1864.
Hutchinson's Argentine Gletfnmgs. Price, I65. 6d, London, 1866.
Solveyra's Street Directory. Price, $80 n^fc. Buenos Ayres, 1866.
I^alli^re^s River Plate Album. 52 plates. $500n^fc. Buenos Ayres, 1866/
An Account of Piiragua}'. By Ch. Quentin. London, 1866. *
Map of Province of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department. $500 m^.
Buenos Ayres, 1866.
States oCtheRfver Plate. By W.Latham. Price, 125. London, 1867.
The Argentine Alps. By Ross Johnston. London, 1867.
Modem Paraguay. By M. Poucel. Paris, 1 867.
Map of City of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department. $500 ra^.
Buenos Ayres, 1868.
Random Sketches of Boenos Ayres. Edinburgh, 1868.
Life in the Argentine Republic^ By His Excellency President Sarmiento.
Price, 85. Nevir York, 1868. (^ ]
Hadfield's Visit to La Plata. Price, IO5. 6d. London, 1868.^00g^^
154 PRESS OF LA PLATA.
RIVER PLATE NEWSPAPERS.
Buenos Ayres. *
■ . .' I / . i , . • . ■/. . ..- ■ . .[.-.:
The Tribuna was established in 1854 by Hector aq4 ftUriano Varela, ions
of the distinguished writer D, FJkweneio Vareia. It is the first, paper* in
the River Plate, as regards influence and circulation. It appears ev«ry
morning; subscription §4<), a month. Circulation 5, QOO. .'
The Bepnblica was established in 1867 l>y Mr, Bernbeim, and has been
very successful/as jin experimient of a cheap pros*. It appears every
morning; Subscription, $25 a month. Glrpulation, 4,000. i
The Nacion Argentina was established in 1 862, by Dr. Jos6 M^riai Gutierrez,
and was regarded ^s the official oiigan of General Jliti'e's administration.
It appears every morning ; subscription, $40 a month. Circulation, 2,000.
The Nacional is the oldest paper inBuenosAyres, having beejj. established
in 1853. Among its editors, at various times, have been General Mitre,
Pres. Sarmiento, Dr. V. Sarsfield, Dr. Avellaneda, and other leading- public
men. It appears every evening, subscription §40 a month. Circulation, 2,0j(M).
The Stondard was established in 1801 by Jlichael and Edward Thomas
Mulhall, being the first English daily ever published in South America. It
has three editions-, t\ie J^aibj for Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, the W^^Jy
for the country departments, the Fortnightly for Europe: snbscriptioa
for Daily $30, for. Weekly $200 af.year; Fortnightly JL\ a yev.
Circulation, 3,0P0;
The Courrler de la Plata was established by ,M. Legout in 1864, as Ijie
organ of the French population. K appears every morning ; subscription,
$30 a month. Circulation, 1,200. , . ., .
The JBipaM^ a tr|- weekly organ of the Spanish,resldents. , : ,
The America^ a new ^ly paper ; subscription, $30. . ;
The />fiwft<A<? Z^iife^// was established in 1866, its present editor beipg
Mr. Napp. It. appears every morning ; subscription, $30 a month.
The iVajstofi* ItaUana was established in 1868, by Dr; Bianchi. It appears
every morning : subscription, $30 a month.
. The Interem Argentinos, is a patpeis ofa teligtotts character. It was
established in 1868; sub^riptiouf $30 a month. '
The Mosquito is a weekly * charivari,' illustrated. » It was established'in
18|63; subscription, ^0 a month. i »
The Revista de Buenos Ayres is a valuable monthly periodical, established
in 1862, by Drs. Nj^va^fo. Viola and Quesada; subac£iption,t$30amoiitii*;
TheJievistOi A^jwm^na, established in 1868, by Jos6.M. Estrada, is isimUbr
to the last. Appears fortnightly ; subscriptions, $30 ar^month. }
i ■; . : ... Digitized by VjOOQIC
PRESS OF MONTEVIDEO. 155
Annates de la Soeiedad Rural is the name of a luonthly farming gazette,
published by the Rural Society.
Montevideo,
/ The 5t$f/o was first established in 1863, but suppressed by Goyernment
in the following year. It re-appeared in 1865, under M. Vaillant, and is
now edited by Dr. Bamirez. It appears every morning ; subscription $2 a
month. Circulation, 2,000.
The Tribuna^ was established by Colonel Bustamante in 1866, and is
edited by Senor Tavolara. It is considered the official paper. It appears
every morning; subscription, $2 a month. Circulation, 1,500. There
is an evening edition called the Tribunita.
The Telegrafo Maritimo is an old established shipping gazette, published
every afternoon by D. Juan Buela.
The Mercantil del Plata was established in 1868, and appears every
morning.
The Orden is a morning paper, edited by Sr. Gordillo.
The Progreso is a small evening paper, also of recent date.
Rosario.
The Capital is a daily papeK, established ifi 1868.
The Federalistaj also new, appears lik^wi^e daily.
Cordoba.
The Eco de Cordoba is the only daily papfer in 'the interior.
.p/JSntre'^BioB.}^
The Urug^flHf published #t Concepcipn, is e^t^ by.Sr. Vix^orica, It if
consid^r^ G^eralUrquiza's) official orgap,i^^^pp^sd^y, v
' 'i ' -J •■■' ' Paraguay. > • 'i. I . i . / j' ' ..r
"the Semanario, official orgah; appears weefelv at Asundiori. ' ' ' ■'
The Cabtchuy^ is a weekly * feharivari.' * '^ •* ' ■ '•' ' •' '
There are numerous small ^weekly papers published in the provincial
towns, viz.: at Sar Juan^cMendoza, Salta, Tucuman, Corriewte^, Parana,
Santa F6,Salto, Pjaygandiiy.Colonia, j&c.
' •*'-: ,'v.fi .... » .. • ,
1 M I
#
^ : Digitized by VrrOOQlC
15§
MOKEYS^ WEIGIIXSy MEASURES.
CHAP- XlV.
MONEYS, WEIGHTS, MEASURE;S, AND DISTANCES.
. BUENOS AYl&ES.
Ik Buenos Ayres the basis of the currency is the paper dollar or <vpeso,)>
^orth "id. English, 25 «pesosi> being equal to a haM dollar, sudi as used
in North America. In all exchange opera|tions, and the like, only specie is
used, the sovereign, being taken for $4 90c. silver, or for $122^ paper.
The gold coins of England, North America, France, Spain, and Brazil are a
legal tender throughout the Republic, at the following rates :—
' ' Silver. ' Paper.
SoVfeTfeigti, ' ;.
$4.90 .
... $122i
Twenty Francs,
3.90 • .
.;. • 97i
Chilian Condor,
9.25
231i
Twenty Milreis,
11.00
275
United States Ragle,
..♦ 10.00 .
250
Doubloon, ;
16.00
400
In the uppe^ provinces almost all transactions are carried on in Bolivian
silver, the value of which slightly fluctuates at times. The Bolivian dollar
averages about 35. English, or twenty-one to the doubloon, zed by CiOOqIc
The -weights and measures are—
1 Arrdbe,
eqtkdte
Jftft
4 Arrobes,
do., 1
Quiatal.
^Qointals,
do.,
1 'Pod.
80 Ajprobes,
do.,
ITon.
20dWI>, ' ■
do.,
tTott.
WEIGHTS Aim MEASURES. 157
1 Yant, eqiidtoJ4fiiigU<iiiii^«8.
1 Cuadra, doi^ 15«^ VmiSL
40 do.) do., 1 lieAgue.
eOODVaras, do., 1 Leiagiie.
1 fi(}iLettgue,do.)i6a00Eiig.ac]|e$.
It wi!l be ^en that a' Spanish ton is 24 oU less than an English ton^ . The
Spanish league is vutgarly taken to represent three miles, but it is fdlty
three and a-quarter miles. The cuadra, in metsoring land, is alwajfs f50
varas, but some of the provincial towns are built in cuadras or blocks of
100 or 120 varas. in cidcalating distances^ twelve quadras may be esti-
mated as an English mile. The superficial cuadra covers about four acres^
and ist also called a «manzana : » there ai^e 1 ,600 «mauzanas» in a square
league of landi Ax(suerte» of estancia i^ually * measures one and a-half
leagues. long, by half a league wide, comprising 27,000,000 square' Taras :
a square league of lanij contains 36,000,000 varas.
• moktcvideO. •
Before the suspension.of specie payments, 1867, the currency Was^ fixed
on the basis of a dollar worth &2d. English, oir 4 per cent, more than
the North American dollar. At present, October' (868, the currency is at
a discount of 15 per cent. ; but the former value of the currency, in rela-
tion with foreign currency, was —
w
..IftotetidMnl*
1 . *
HoDi^ndean f .
Mejucan doUar, .... ^ 6.96
Twenty Milreis, . . . .
10,56 .
Sofvereign, •/••. *-70
United States Eagle,
9-60
Twenty Francs, .•,.. , 3.74
Dqubloon, • • . .
15.60
Chilian Condor, .... 8 .88
i'. ■ . . _
The weights and measures are the same as in Buenos Ayres ; but the
cuadras in the city are only 100 varas square. ' The French metrical system
is being gradually introduced, and building lots are sometimes sold ,hj the
metre, which is three inches longer than ah English yard. In measuring
land the cuadra is Hied at 100 varas, sO that a league is said to be sixty
cuadras long, and a soperficiaji league to contain 3^,600 manzanas : of course
the league is exactly the same length as in Buenos Ayres.
, PARAGUAY.
Before the war the currency of the country consisted partly of doubloons
and partly paper dollars, all accounts being payable by law in half and half.
The paper dollar, in 1864, was worth about half-a-crown English, j]r>
158
TABLE OF DISTANCES.
-Iw^nty4via ltd itbei OoiiblQoa.; sdy 64 deots. silvevi Np foreign CQin}had
4!;fa*(nilflAfoh in the coiultEy. 'i> ' .h.' .ii o i , o|. . 'i :•.' .
"iilhetaUe of weigkfs is thd>saaie as in Pufnps Ayres.,.\The laadiitewire
is: wry* different— .► •.'<•,. ..[ | ' j''^
t League, equal U^ 5,000 Varas.i
iCuerda, do., 6^^^.
{League, do., 60Guerdas.
' 1 Sq. League, do., 3>,600 manzanas. ■
1 . Man^na, equal to 1 i Eng. aeires.
1 Sq. League^ do,, 25,000,000 s^ v.
1 Sq. League, dp., 4,5CK)acres
TABLE op DISTANCES FROM dUENOS ATtRES.
-r'
Spanish Leases.
'Spanish Leagues.
London, .... 2,500
. Cape San Boque, .. '.\ 920
^ Lisbon, , .... 2,20(i
BioGrandjBdoSul ' 150
Cape Verde, .... 1,5$0
Montevideo, V;.. 40^
Pernambuco, . . .' . 850
Bahia Blanca, . ! . ; 200
Bahia, TOft .
Welsh Colony, 350
^ l|Rio Janeiro, ... . ... ^ 45p
Falkland Islands, . 450,
^jjN^w York, .;.;..: 2,300
Ttfagellan's Straits'; 600 ''
. St. Thomas,., '.^^.. 1,800
Cape Horn, ' ../. 680' ' '
/^ ParA, .... ..... 1,250
f... r^ >.,. r. • '• .. ■/■, / ';
. • ^ 'J i : '/I'M •-..( :» . . • ■ • [^
River
1
" Ifosario (S. F6) 75
EsqtiMa, .... 180
;|;^taF6,;; ;..,v' i*t^ ,
•Ooya, .-.•..■ ;j.. 210''
t^araiia, ' ' .... 115* ' ,
*_lielk Vista,- .... 230*
* CnlifornlanColony,^ iW^^ \
Corriente*, .... ' 260 '
La Paz, 160
.•11 , , I, , J '
• '/r. j;-- - . •' 'f ,"• iKver P(
araffuay.^ , . : , .
: 'trfei Bacas, >.... 265 '
Saltador, ..;. 420 :
Kimayta, ;'.•.. 275 i
Bio Appa, motrth, 440 • .
Bio Vfermejo, moutih, 278
Siete Puntas, ^i.. 450
Villa Pilar, ..i. 2m
Pab de Aziicar,' « « . . 460
Tebiquary, mouth,' 290 .
FortOlympo, .,. - 475
Villa Franca, 300
Bio Negro, mouth, 500
Villa Oliva, .... 315'
FortCoimbra, 5i0
Asuncion, ' .... 340
Albuquerque, .... 530 .
Bosario, 365
CurumbA, .... 555
San Pedro, 380
CuyabA. oigiti^e^ by G©l®gle
Concepcion, .... 400
TABLE OF DISTAHCES.
159
,i 1
''i'Upper ParaM.
ftiso 1j^ Patria, . ^ . ." ,« 270
Wills of • Apip«}" ; /J .* • >3 14
firanquera-de Loroto^ '316
Itapua & Cand^riaf, a 333
Fklls of Giiritiba, , r li • 400
Bio Taouari, mouth, /'h4%S
Balto d<-Gua>ra, . .^460
Miver Uruguay,
FrayBentos, v^.:*
Bio Megpo,- mouth) •
Cktaleguaychil, .^..
Concepcion, -....:
Pilysandu> j ;. iJ'
Concordia, • • • v
^alto, ••;.••
,tVM'
.90
40
50
70
'80
108
Santa Bosa,
lAruguayana,
Iia Cruz,
Itaqui, • • » .
SintoTomi,
San Borja,
PrayleMuertOj '.
tlio Cuarto, c*''»*l
Cordoba/ • '^^* .
^^nLuisjv '••"'''
tapper Provif^s.
•n,.
■wh
m
.15b
*i^6
Uendosa; *
The Andes,
San Juan,, ^ ,.
..-r is^
5J45
KlappenbaQh's mines, 270
1-
^larior wotIls,
Cdoja, •;;;•
l[!iatamarca,'
¥(icuman; *
•v«: : 140
. ^*i' . iWO
...\K180
....' 183
..\.y 967
208
• • • f ^DD
,/<'': t/i
Santiago del EsteroJ* ' 520
ttr6
M..o.4h.v S#a,
310
Cauuelas, * ' ll
San Vicente^ ....... 10
Lobos, J. . • • j.. i 18 ,
•Navallro, ^ : •, m.*- ^ i
"Cruardia WS^^e,^. J . *;, 4^
Banchos, ^^ .... - 20
Chascbmud^ . '-.•.V* '^
|25dfekayb, ■ l:.:.^ ^,
; Paso de Boqha, :• j . ji • . ^
tasFlorea, , ..^mv 32
Dolores, • .,.; 49
Ensenada, .-. • *^
Magdalena, . •••• 19
Tuyu, .... .•.. 46
Montes Grandes, . ; . . 59
Tandil, .... 60
: Tapalquei^ j . , .^f^..-, . , 48 :
Sierra Quilklanquen^ ' 62
i Azul, '55
i Arroyo Cbapaleofd, 52
, MarChiquita, .... 66
- Sierra Tinta, 69
GintoLomas; ::'.'. '.''70
LOberia', ' ' '' ..:.' * 65
Cape Corrientest, i/ '78
Ltigun^ ios P{^drQ9, t 7 4
Necoctiea, ...%•.. 80
irroyoPillalWlnco, 90
Tres Arroyos, .... 98
Siierra La Ventana^ 103
Bahia Blanca, ^.^.^.^.^^ ^y Qt^gk
160
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.
North.
Pilar,
10 J
. Cepeda, ....
43
Capilla,
14
Arroyo Mjedio, ..:.
4«
Zarate, . . ...
IjS
Arroyo. PaYon^ ......
4«.
Giles, ,.
20
Artecifes,', : !....
33
San Antonio, ....
21
Fortin Areco, . .i.>
27
Baradero, , • • • •
27
Salto, .... ...^.
34
San Pedro,
^t
^ Pergamino, ......
42
Obligado,. ....
33
Bojas, .... . . . . '
43
Las Hermanas, ....
3a
Fort Chaaar,
50
Bamallo, ....
44
FortMelincu^, .....
,60
San Nicolas, — ;
4S
India Maerta,
58t.
61
Bodriguez, ....
10
Cjutcabaco, ....
36
Lujan,
13
Jupin, .... ....
45
Mcotsedes, .... ,
^
I'ortBanch, . ..i.
.44
Jfreyre, ....
:^
Nqeve de Julio, ......
48
Gorostiaga, . . . ,
, ?§
,i:igre Muerto, . ...
55
ChiTilco^; ....
31
fofi Valliinanca, . . . .,
.«
Bragado, ....
,39
I ^adillo, . ....
33
II^TEOROLOGICAL.
The foUoViiig are the results of meteorologicar observations, taken by
the aid of one of Messrs. Neigretti & Zambra's minimuin and maximum self-
registering thermometers (Fahrenheit), exposed Hn the shade during the
month of March at Rosario, from ApHl to Jane at Montevideo^ and from
July to September at Buenos Ajres: — ' |
* ,; ■ ) .
rrrr : : i f" 4
Monthly range, .^ ^j . f. ,
Greatest diurnal range, ., •
Average do., do.,
Highest maximum, . . ' . .
Lowest do.,/. . . ' • .
Average . . do.,
Highest minuiDjqp, ^. ..
Lowest do., . . , .
Average do..
Mean averages,
1
i ',
;i-
^ •
.& '
[•t
^
:§
^-
•^
■^
^•
t
51
26
2?
28
26
25
18
43
24
18
21
14
14
9
20
10
9
■ 7
9
7
5
98
77
71-
•72
65-
66
63
68
57
56
49
48
49
52
80
«8
63
.59
54
58
58
77
-67
61
62
50
61
59
47
51
46
44
39
41
45
64
58
54
51
44
51
53
72
63
59
55
49
54
56
Digitize
U^
Qoq
ADVICE TO KMIGRAKtS. 161
CHAP. XV.
ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS.
WHO TO COM£, A1«D WHO TO STAY AT HOME.
T^HE River Plate offers a fine field for immigrants, as is proved by the
thousands of Europeans here who have gained fortune and position during
the last twenty years. Yet it sometimes happens that individuals come out
to Buenos Ayres, throwing up a good livelihood, and being ignorant of the
language and unwilling at first to «rough it,)) grow disgusted and return to
England sadder but not wiser men. ' It is, therefore, absolutely necessary
to bear in mind the classes of emigrants most needed in a new country : —
1st. Farm servants — unmarried men, of strong constitution^, sober ,
steady, accustomed to country life, and able to stand rain and sun. Their
occupation here would be the care of sheep, and as our flocks make up a
total of sixty millions, doubling every four years, at least twenty thousand
of this class will find immediate employment at £20 per ahnum, being
found in house, provisions, horses, &c. After two or three years, they
usually get a flock of sheep with third profits, and ultimately become
independent farmers.
2nd. Cooks and housemaids — ^unmarried women of good conduct and
some experience in house-keeping, although ignorant of Spanish, are much
in request. Five hundred would at once get situations in native or foreign
families, at £25 to £35 per annum. They often get married to the above
class of shecpfarmers.
3rd. Young married couples — when unencumbered with family, this
class is in greater demand than any other, and always preferred, on th^e
162 ADVICE TO EMIGRAHTS. .
ground of steadiness. The husband must act either as sheep-peon or
gardener, and the wife as cook. If they hire on an estancia in Buenos
Ayres their joint wages may be calculated at £45 per annum, but if they
go to Banda Oriental, Entre-Bios, or the other Provinces, they will
earn £80.
4th. Speculators — we want some wide-awake, practical men, possessing
money and experience. We have no manufactures in the Biver Plate. We
want a paper mill, a woollen manufactory, omnibuses to ply through the
city, pleasure gardens, an English theatre, and fifty other enterprises
which would handsomely pay the originators.
The above are the classes actually wanted, but some others might possibly
better themselves by coming hither. For instance, there is room for half-
a-dozen English physicians in the *camp' ; a few mechanics might get good
wages in the interior ; printers are always wanted in Buenos Ayres ; some
sober coachmen may also come out, and a good teacher of music or
languages will find plenty to do.
It may be needful to specify the classes not wanted —
Ist. Lawyers, laud surveyors, newspaper reporters, and graduates of
universitie3. The first two are debarred from practising, until they go
through a course of studies in the universities of these countries and take
out degrees here. This involves three years, and is not worth the trouble.
Reporters, if even they knew Spanish, would get nothing to do, there
being no meetings, law-trials, lectures, &c., to report. Graduates are
proverbially useless, for a man may htvfe Homer and Virgil by heart, and
be obliged to sell oraqges for a living.
2nd. Clerks and shop assistants. Some of this class come out to seek
their fortune and generally return. They are ignorant of Spanish,
and therefore both helpless and useless : moreover the English houses
bring out their own clerl^, and look with distrust on strangers. , Half a
dozen youths understanding Spanish and their basiness,might fall into a
drapery or grocery, at £60 a year. As a cliiss, however, they are
not wanted.
3rd. Unemployed gentlemen. If these men have sufficient money to buy
a flock of sheep, it is likely they will get disgusted, and sell out at a loss.
If they have not, they are out of element, not willing to work hard, and
desiring some lucrative post which they would be unable to fill.
4th. Tradesmen with large families. Most handicrafts being exercised
by Frencfi, Italian, or Spanish operatives, it is not likely an English tailor,
bootmaker or carpenter woukl find wages so much tetter than at home,
comparatively with the value of money in both countries, as ^^^r?^^p
STEAM LINES TO LA PLATA. IfflX
the change. If he has a few handred pounds, to start for himself, he may
possibly get on, but if he has a large family and no ready money, he will,
find himself much worse than at home.
5th. Fast young men. If there were a law prohibiting the importation of
this class, it would be a service to the country and to themselves. The-
British Hospital and Policia can tell of many locked up for drunkennessf
and finally dying in <cdelirium tremens,)) for this climate cuts them off
with extraordinary rapidity.
We have now pointed out distinctly ihe classes which are sure to get on
well ; and also those which must come here only to be sadly disappointed.
If the immigrant has little self conceit, and a good temper, be will find
friends everywhere. If strictly sober and honest, he is sure to thrive.
It is perfectly immaterial whether he be Catholic or Protestant. A good
education is not virtually a disadvintage. The climate is the finest oa
earth, and persons who come out young speedily accustom themselves-
The distance from Europe is very great, and those who cast their fortunes
here have little chance of seeing the Old World again, not one in a
hundred ever returning. Still the country has so many advantages, and
the people are in general so kind, that <(home sickness^ is hardly known.
STEAM SERVICE TO THE RIVER PLATE.
A few years ago there was but one line of steamers plying to Brazil and
the Biver Plate, viz. : the Royal Mail from Southampton. At present there
are seven lines, viz. : the Southampton, Liverpool (2), London, Bordeaux,.
Marseilles, and New York steamboat services.
1 . The Boyal Mail Company despatch a steamer on the morning of the
9th of every month, from Southampton, or on the 10th if the previous day
be Sunday. This line has been running over twenty years : the vessels
are large and commodious. Fares — 1st class, £35 and upwards: return
tickets, available for twelve months, issued at a fare and a-half ; 2nd class,.
JE25, good accommodation ; but this class is not allowed to mix with the
first or go on the quarter-deck. Bed, bedding, plate, and utensils provided
for both classes. A reduction of one-sixth is allowed for families of four-
or more persons travelling first-class. The steamer calls at Lisbon, Cape?
Verds, Bahia, and Pernambuco : at Rio Janeyro passengers for the River
Plate are transhipped to the Arno. The voyage occupies thirty-one days to
Montevideo, and thirty-two to Buenos Ayres. For regulations about
luggage, &c., see the company's pamphlet, given gratis on application,
either personally or by letter, to Captain Vincent, Superintendent, Sonth^lc
ampton ; or, to J. M. Lloyd, Esq., 55 Moorgate Street, London, E.C.
m2
'464 ADVICE TO EMIGRAHTS.
:!L The Mensageries Imperiales, or French mail line from Bordeaux,
«efitablished in 1861, also carry a monthly mail, leaying Bordeaux on the
25l;h, and making the voyage in the same number of days as th^
Sauthampton line. At Bio Janeyro passengers are in like manner tran-
sshipped to the Aunis for the Biver Plate. Few Englishmen come by this
ime^ but if a person wishes to visit Paris uen passant» he can reach
Bordeaux from London in two days. The vessels call at Lisbon, Goree,
ttaiiia, Pernambuco, and Bio Janeyro : they are not so large as the Boyai
Mall Steamers. First cabin, including wine, £50. Second cabin, £20.
Office — Messrs. Fletcher & Co., Liverpool, and Messrs. Home, 4 Moorgate
St., London.
i. The Liverpool and Biver Plate Mail Company despatch a steamer
from Liverpool on the 20th of each month, calling at Lisbon, Bahia, and
flit0 laneyro, and coming on to the Biver*Plate without any transhipment of
^Misseagers: they usually make the passage in twenty-eight days. The
treatment and accommodation on board are excellent. The line was
established in 1863, and in 1868 obtained a mail charter from the British
Government. First cabin, £35. Second cabin, £25. Steerage, £16:
Khe 1st and 2nd classes are found in everything; steerage passengers get
lations on the emigration dietary scale. Agents, Messrs. Lamport and
Holt, 2 1 Water St . , and Messrs. Wright & Kelso, 7 Tower buildings, Water St.,
JLiverpool. Mr. Lloyd of the latter firm is Argentine Vice-Consul, and will
4^ve any information required. The Company 's steamers are the following :
XychoBrahe, 1858 tons; Hipparchus, 1840; Kepler, 1499; Galileo, 1525;
JTewton, 1074; Ptolemy, 1115; Halley, 1347; Donati, 1182; Humboldt,
liiQ; Gassini, 836; Flamsteed, 1376; G6pernicus, 1397; Saladin, 510;
J[rotisicles,*691 ; La Plata, 1393; La Place, 1194. Beduction for families.
JKeturn-tiiclLet, for twelve montfis, at a fare and a-half.
i. The New York and Brazilian Mail Company despatch a monthly
^^teamer from New York, which calls at St. Thomas's, Par&, Pernambuco,
mA Bahia, arriving at Bio Janeyro in twenty-four days. The line was
established in 1866, and has a subsidy from the American and Brazilian
Governments. It is proposed to have a branch line to the Biver Plate.
First class from New York to Bio, £50.
5. The London, Belgium, Brazil and Biver t^late Mail Company despatch a
^fiteamer from London, with English mails, which takes the Belgian mails at
Aflitwerp, and receives passengers for South America^at Falmouth on the 3rd of
each month. The line was started by Messrs. lait Brothers, of Limerick, in
1867 , and has some fine new steamers with superior accommodation. The
dtj of Bio Janeyro has made one of the quickest passages to Brazil on
STEAM LIHES to LA PLATA. IG£»
record : the other vessels are — the City of Limerick, City of Brussels^ and
City of Buenos Ayres. The departures are — from Londou, 28tlij
Antwerp, Ist; Falmouth, 3rd; arriving at Rio Janeyro in about twenty
days, and proceeding to the River Plate without transhipping passengers^
Fares, £35, £25, and £16, first ahd second classes found in everything r
the usual reduction for families; return tickets at a fare and a-halT.
Agents — London, Managing owners, Messrs. Tait & Co. ; Brokers,. A^
Howden & Co. Antwerp, Consignee, B. de Vleeshouwer; Broker, E. I>
Isenbaert. Rio Janeyro, Consignee, Thomas Holicombe, Esq, ; Broker
Montevideo, Consignees, Messrs. Zimmerman, Fair & Co. ;' Broker, J. R.
Schwartz. Buenos Ayres, Consignee, Messrs. Zimmerman, Fair & Cck^
Brokers, Woodgate Brothers.
6. The Pacific Navigation Company despatch a steamer from Liverpool <»
the 19th of every alternate month, for Valparaiso, calling at Rio Janeiro aod
Montevideo ; the voyage to the River Plate is made in twenty-four daysy
the vessels being constructed for great speed. The Company vn»
established in 1868, and has a subsidy from the Chilian Governmeat.
7. The Marseilles line, called «Societ6 de Transports Maritlnie»,i»
despatches a monthly steamer from Genoa, calling at Marseilles, jGibraltSBv
Bahia and Rio Janeyro, and making the voyage to Montevideo in twenty-
eight days. The vessels are large and well appointed, viz. : the Bourgogne^
Picardie, Poitou, «fec., each 3.000 tons register. Fares: from Genoa. £5(1^
£33, £16T~from Marseilles or Gibraltar, £48, £31, and £16. Agents m
Buenos Ayres, Messrs. Bonnemason <fe Heydecker, Calle Bolivar.
There are also sailing vessels, of about 300 tons register, always on flte
berth at London or Liverpool, to receive cargo and passengers for Monie-
video and Buenos Ayres. The passenger fare is usually £13^ th^
accommodation pretty good, and the voyage is made in about ^xty doysL
ForpapticularsapplytoMessrs.Nuttall,Mor8&Co., Liverpool; ortoMessrSu.
Howden & Sons, 19 Birchin Lane, London.
No passport is required on landing in the River Plate, but if tBc»
emigrant has no friends here, it would be well for him to bring a certificate-
of baptism or other document shewing his name and nationality, ite
receiving letters at the Post-office, taking out a marriage license, receivi^
money from home, &c. positive proof of identity is of course required, antf
as passage tickets are often lost, and letters of introduction only used f<ir
the moment, an official document is more valuable. Some persons procure
a letter from the Foreign Office to our diplomatic or consular represen-
tatives, but it is hardly worth the trouble, and leads, at best, to ant
invitation to dinner. ^ ,
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166
ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS.
As to letters of introduction they are useful, and as many may be
brought as choice may dictate. But let it not be supposed that they will
always avail to procure a situation for the bearer. Merchants are often
ccbored» by a dozen such recommendations, on the arrival of the packet.
Irish emigrants should invariably bring letters to the head of their
countrjmen here, V. Rev. Canon Fahy.
Packing up the trunk is a serious consideration : we advise the reader to
provide himself with an abundant supply of clothing and comforts, not
only for the voyage, but because they cost here three times their value in
England, and may be introduced duty free. They must be bona-fide for
personal use and marked with the owner's name, to avoid suspicion of
smuggling. A box of kid gloves or roll of silk would be exposed to Custom-
house seizure, but shirts and clothing (marked) incur no risk. A gun or
revolver, saddle and equipments should not be omitted, and if not required
afterwards may be sold at a profit ; but no more than one is permitted, and
we caution passengers against the false idea of bringing out boots, fire-
arms, &c., on speculation. A dozen linen suits will be found useful on
board when near the tropics, and always come in well for summer
wear here.
LETTERS OP CREDIT.
We should advise emigrants who intend bringing money with them, to
do so by means of a Letter of Credit. This may easily be obtained
through almost every Bank in England and Scotland, on the London
and River Plate, or Maud Banks of this dty, and Montevideo (B. Oriental).
I And in Ireland from any of the various branches of the National Bank of
\ Ireland which also grants Letters of Credit on the above Banks. The
\ agents in Buenos Ay res of the National Bank are Messrs. Wanklyn & Co.
^ The above Credits may be obtained for a trifling charge for commission,
if the amount be under £500 ; and if over that sum, we believe free of
any charge whatever. The party taking a Letter of Credit will always
receive a duplicate, which he should leave at home with his friends in
case of his losing the original, or the ship being lost.
This course we can with confidence recommend to our friends as being
the best and safest, and one that does not in any way involve the possibility
of a loss, whilst by the old and foolish system of carrying gold about the
person a man runs the risk of losing it, or being robbed, and if the ship
is lost for a certainty loses his money also. Whereas by the Letter of
Credit system even should the ship be lost, his friends at home4iave stU
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nfSTRUCTIONS 05 LANDING. 167
got the duplicate Letter of Credit, by which they can obtain the money
deposited.
INSTRUCTIONS ON LANDING.
Passengers by the mail-steamers are usually landed in a little steamboat,
but failing this it will be necessary to take a whaleboat (M^ean's are the
best), and be sure to bargain with the boatman before leaving the ship : his
charge will depend on the weather, say $20 to $50 a head. On no account
let any of your luggage be separated from you, or you may lose it.
Reaching the mole you will be assailed by an impetuous gang of porters ;
pick out one of them, count fbr him the number of your trunks, and let
him get others to help him if he like : he will charge probably $5 or $10
a trunk to take them to your hotel. At the Besguardo, near the end of the
mole, you will have to open your trunk for examination; if you do so
with good grace you will find the officials most polite and anxious to save
you any trouble. If you have cigars, silks, jewellery, or fire-arms, you
had better declare the same. On arriving at your hotel if you have any
diiBculty with the porters about your luggage, ask the landlord to settle
with them. You will find the hotels very cheap and good, the charge for
bed and board not exceeding eight shillings a day, unless you take a sitting
room, which you will find very dear. Place your card with the number of
your room in the frame at the stair's foot. Lock your room whenever you
go out, leaving the key with the porter : lock it also* at night. If any of
your trunks have been detained at the Resguardo or sent to the Custom-
house, lose no time to employ Mr. Hill, of 76 Calle Defensa, or some other
respectable broker, to clear them for you : the cost will be trifling, unless
duties be enforced, in which case they will amount to 23 per cent, on the
value of the article.
The change cf climate will necessarily oblige you to be careful as to
your manner of living. Rise early, take a cold bath every morning, beware
of walking about much in the sun, and remember that there are frequent
changes of temperature even in one day. Flannel singlets, light clothing
and a straw hat are advisable in summer months. At all seasons the
mornings are frequently cold, necessitating warm clothing. Be very
eareful of a cut finger or other trifling wound, which must be kept closely
bandaged : it is sometimes very hard to heal a small cut, if the air get into
\ it, and we have unfortunately many cases of lockjaw from a mere scratch
not attended to. It is also very bad to drink much cold water, which acts as
a purgative on strangers. The most wholesome drink at breakfast or
dinner is French wine, for which no charge is made in the hotels. Brandy
is too hot for the climate, and must only be taken with extreme moderation :
168 ADVICE TO BMIGAAIII^.
ccdeliriom tremens,» from the iutemperate use of spirits, results sooner in
this than in any other country. The meat of the country is good and
wholesome, except pork, .which you had better avoid, seeing the
objectionable manner of rearing swine in Buenos Ayres. In the hotels the
usual hour for breakfast is 9 a.m. and dinner 5 p.m. As soon as convenient
after arrival you may call at the Standard office, 74 Calle Belgrano, where
the editors will gladly give you any information or advice in their power.
Letters from home may also be directed to their care free of charge. Poor
emigrants looking for employment can have advertisements inserted gratis.
New arrivals should be careful about roaming through the streets after
1 1 P.M., although the city is more quiet and orderly than most large towns.
Above all things beware of intoxication, and keep out of the Policia. In
the coffee-houses, never make any offensive remarks about the country ; it
would be ill-breeding, and many of those around you are sure to understand
English. If you meet a religious procession either turn into the next street,
or take off your hat and stand till it passes by. If anyone ask you for
a light for his cigar, present yours to him politely. Remember always that
politeness and equality are the rule of the country, and act up to it.
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ITIKERART FROM ENGLAND. 1 69
CHAP. XYI.
ITINERARIES FRQM ENGLAND AND NEW YOM.
EIHGLAUD TO BUENOS ATIUBS.
The voyage is usually made in thirty days, the distance being about
7,800 statute miles. The outset is often disagreeable, in crossing the Bay
of Biscay, but the rest of the voyage is generally delightful, and rough
weather is exceedingly rare between Lisbon and Rio Janeyro.
Lisbon is reached in four days from England. The entrance to the Tagus
is highly picturesque. Rounding the Rock of Lisbon, and crossing the
bar, we get a distant view of Belen, the hills around being covered with a
multitude of windmills. On the right is seen a massive buildmg, the
Lazarretto; on the left is Fort Julian,, a relic of the Moorish epoch.
Abreast of Belen we are hailed by the port officials, after which we are
allowed to proceed. The panorama of the city becomes every moment
more attractive ; a crowd of steamers, war-vessels and shipping, line the
quays. We land at the Custom-house, in the Terreyro do Pago, or Black-
horse Square. The streets of the new town are handsome and spacious^
with massive piles of building in regular blocks of about a hundred yards
square; the houses are six or seven stories high, and all built of stone.
The three principal streets, Rua Aurea, Rua Augusta, and Bua da Prata^
run parallel. This was the scene df the earthquake of 1755, when most
of the old town, with 40,000 inhabitants, was destroyed. The Marquis de
Pombal rebuilt the city. He was Minister toKirig Jos6 1., whose equestrian
statue gives name to the Plaza, and the effigy of the xMinister is seen in a
bronze medallion on the pedestal.' The east and west sides of the Plaza
are occupied by public departments. The south is bounded by the river,
and on the north a triumphal arch gives access to the city^.^^ by GoOqIc
170 ITmERAEY FROM ElfGLAIID.
Englishmen usually stop at the Hotel Braganza, which surmounts one of
the seven hills, and is situated close to the Opera-house, in the aristocratic
quarter : charge, eight shillings a day. The Bocio terminates the lower
town built by Pombal and is flanked on two sides by the D6na Maria theatre
and St. Domingo church. In the centre a monument is being erected to
Don Pedro I., who abdicated the throne of Brazil to return to the mother
country. In public monuments, plazas, fountains, &c., the city abounds.
it may give some idea of Lisbon to say that it comprises 355 streets, 281
travessas or causeways, 12 plazas, 52 plazuelas, 5 public parks, 6 theatres,
200 churches, and 36 public fountains. It contains over 300,000
inhabitants, and enjoys a privileged cljinate. The traveller should visit the
Cathedral, the Abbey of Belen, the Paseo da Estrella, the aqueduct, and
the Opera-house. In the coffee-houses may be had capital port- wine at two
shillings a bottle. The English book-store is in Bua do Garmo. English
Vice-Cousul, Jeremiah Meagher. Chaplain, Bev. T. K. Brown. Messrs.
Knowles & Co, are agents for the Boyal Mail Company, and Messrs.
Tait's London line, and the Liverpool and Biver Plate Company,
have also agencies. If the steamer delay more than one day the traveller
should drive out to Cintra, 17 miles, one of the most charming spots in the
universe. There is now railway communication from Lisbon to Paris, and
some people come this way, to avoid the Bay of Biscay. The route is this
— VvLvis to Bordeaux, 12 hours; Bordeaux to Madridj 20 hours ; Madrid to
Badajoz, 16 hours; Badajoz to Lisbon, 15 hours. Between Madrid and
Lisbon the traveller had better carry provisions.
Four days from Lisbon we pass the Canary Islands, the Peak of Teneriffe
rising to a height of 1 1 ,000 feet, and being visible at a great distance.
Formerly the steamers called here ; but the over-zealous quarantine regu-
lations caused the coaling-station to be transferred to San Vicente, The
climate of the Canaries is most salubrious, and the scenery interesting : the
islands belong to Spain, being governed by a Captain-General, and are
sometimes used as a place of exile for turbulent politicians. The late
Marshal O'Donnell was born here. The islands produce good wine and
fruits : the ixihabitants are whites. Lord Nelson fought one of his battles
here. Teneriffe is a station on the Cadiz and Havana line of steamers.
When the mail steamers called at Madeira, this was a very pleasant halt
for passengers. The island is now sometimes sighted, and can be clearly
seen at sixty miles distance : there are three peaks above the town of
Funchal, which are of considerable elevation.
the Gape Verde Islands are made in seven days from Lisbon. San
Antonio is fertile and mountainous. ^Bird Bock)) is a ^o^ic^ piece otj[^
GAPE VSRDS TO PERNAJI9UC0. 171
granite, tenanted by seagulls ; and opposite to it is the wretdied island of
St. Vincent. This is certainly the most barren spot on the world's surface :
sundry bold ranges of mountains, but not a particle of vegetation ; in its
whole extent there is not a blade of grass, not a weed. Two palm-trees
near the barrack, and two orange trees on the beach, are sustained in some
miraculous manner. The port is spacious and secure ; on one side a small
fort flying the Portuguese flag, overlooks the shipping ; on another, the
summit of an adjacent mountain bears a striking resemblance to the
head of Washington. Mr. Miller, the English Consul, has a cottage a little
above the town, which is a straggling collection of about a hundred houses,
built of stone, and a neat little church. There is an English cemetery up
the hill-side, and on the beach is the grave of an. English coloners wife,
who died returning from India. The water is so clear and blue that the
natives will dive for a shilling,'and catch it before it reaches the'bottom.
the boatmen sell some pretty mats and inlaid work-boxes, which come
from Madeira. There is also a good supply of fruit from the fsland cf San
Antonio, whose rugged and lofty outline is seen a few miles westward.
The garrison of the place consists of a company of Portuguese soldiers :
the natives arc all black, and occupy themselves in coaling the steamers.
From St. Vincent to the Brazils the sea is always as smooth as a mill-pond,
and the heat is of course intense, crossing the Line. You see myriads of
flying-fish, and now and then a shark or a shoal of porpoises, or the tiny
little nautilus with sail before the wind (sailors call it the Portuguese man-
of-war). At night the sea is phosphorescent; the moon shines with
peculiar brilliancy, and the constellation of the Southern Gross reminds us
that we are in a new . hemisphere. Passengers should beware of
'catching cold, and on no account sleep on deck. U they continue their
usual morning bath they will find it very relaxing, the sea-water being
actually warmer than the atmosphere.
Fernando Noronha is sighted on the seventh day from St. Vincent. It is
a small rocky island, used by the Brazilians as a penal settlement, and has
a light-house. As we approach the coast of Brazil we see numbers of
birds, and the first land visible is Gape San Roque, a bold headland, 200
miles north of Pernambuco.
Pernambuco is the worst port in the world. The mail steamers lie out
far to sea, and there is a nasty reef near the shore. When the weather is
at all rough, passengers are lowered over the side in an arm chair. The boats
are strong, buoyant, and well-manned, but ther^ are sometimes sudden
changes in the weather, especially about 1 p.m., which render it both
diflicult and dangerous for passengers to return aboard. Bathers had better
172 ITINERA.RY PEOM ElfOLABiD.
look out, here, for sharks, whidh are very numerous. The city has about
100,000 inhabitants, including a few English, and does a great business
'With England and other countries, in coffee, cotton, &c. It is built on
three or four islands, and a fine iron bridge was put up recently, to connect
the chief business quarters. A pretty drive may be taken to Olinda : the
cab fare is ten milreis (fifteen shillings) for two persons. Royal Mail
Company agents, Messrs. Adamson, Howie & Co. British Consul, B. W.
Doyle. Vice-Consul, Alexander Gollan. Chaplain, Rev. Charles A. Austin.
From Pernambuco to Bahia the voyage occupies thirty-six hours. The
overland journey would take as many days, there being no road through
the forests. The distance is under 600 miles. In these waters we meet a
number of «catamarans,» the strangest kind of craft ever seen; they
sometiimes venture over 100 miles from the shore.
Bahia*, or San Salvador, is the oldest city in Brazil, and next in
importance after the metropolis. The bay is very fine, the vegetation
luxuriant; the city -stretches along a hill-side, with numerous churches and
other massive buildings. The suburb called Victoria is the residence of
the English merchants, embowered in gardens, and enjoying the fresh
breeze from the Atlantic. On landing the traveller finds a host of
palanquins ready to carry him up the hill, but these conveyances, which
are borne by two negroes, look so greasy that some people prefer walking.
The heat is sogreatthatthebestplan istotakeacoachandfour mules. Drive
first to the Botanical Gardens, whence a splendid view is obtained. Then
see the old Jesuit cathedral, the Government-house,^ railway terminus, and
post-bfiice : if you have time to drive to the head of the bay, near the
Portuguese hospital, it will repay the trouble. . More than three-fourths of
the inhabitants are colored, and the city is so filthy that foul odours assail
one on all sides. There is an excellent coffee-house opposite the post-
office. Mail Packet agents, Wilson, Hett & Go. British Consul, John
Morgan. Chaplain, Rev. Charles G. Nicolay. There is an English cricket
club here. Bahia boasts the largest oranges and tiie fattest black women
in South America. <
Rio Janeyro is about 800 miles from Bahia, and the voyage takes nearly
three days. The entrance to the Bay of Rio is the grandest picture that
ever delighted the eye of man, grand, solemn, and imposing. A chain of
wild and dark-colored mountains forms the coast-line ; right a-head of us
the land recedes, discovering, as we approach, two rocky islets, one of
them crowned by a light-house. Presently we begin to descry houses
perched here and there among the hills, while the peaks of Gabia, Tijuca,
Corcovado, and the Sugar-loaf, frown upon us in over-awing majesty, alc
CITY OF mo JAl^YRO. 173
At eyery instant, as the steamer steadily advances into the bay, the scene
changes like a kaleidoscope, the mountains seem to move one behind the
Other, and to change entirely in shape, till we get in full view of the city,
with the Organ Mountains in the back-ground, and the middle distance
occupied by sundry islands bristling with batteries.
The Sugar-loaf is perhaps the most striking feature in the picture, and
rises to a height (almost precipitous) of 3,200 feet : an American kdy some
years ago climbed to the top. Gabia looks as if surrounded by a castellated
building. The peak of Santa Cruz is on the right of the bay, overlooking
a fort of granite walls mounting a hundred guns. We pass the British and
French flagships, and several other war-vessels. All the navies in the
world might ride at anchor in this land-locked bay. Small steamboats are
plying in all directions, to the various suburbs along the water-line.
The steamer comes to her moorings alongside Coal Island : the island
was formerly used for rearing young slaves. The boatmen here are mostly
thorough negroes. The landing place is close to the marl^et, a bustling
place, with a very incongruous assemblage. • In coming ashore we notice
the Arsenal, where some of the ironclads were built for the Paraguayan
war. Rio Janeiro is wholly different from any other city : it has nothing
South American about it, and nowise resembles the large towns you see in
France or Italy. The houses are very high, the streets are as narrow as
those of Genoa, and the shops very small, but rich. The vehicles are
drawn by mules, and in some streets you have to step into a shop doorway
when a coach passes. Black servants in livery abound. The Alfandaga or
Custom-house is a fine building, The best hotel is «McDowell's Exchange
Hoteli> : the same owner has a hotel at Petropolis, a charming place about
forty miles up the country. The natives are very polite and understand
a person talking Spanish, although their language is Portuguese. The
Plaza Constitucion is a very handsome square, with fountains, and in the
centre is a tasteful equestrian statue of Peter I., the founder of the
Brazilian Monarchy.* We are now in the new town ; the streets are wide
and well paved: the English Company, called the Bio Improvement
Company, has. done good servicie here. The convict prison is surrounded
with high walls of granite : a little further on we reach another Plaza^
where the Lyric Theatre, the Senate-house, and other buildings claim
notice. As we get to the outskirts we see the reservoir of the grand
aqueduct of Tijuca. The pleasantest* excursion from Rio is to Tijuca,
which is situate in the mountains, about twelve miles inland. An omnibus
leaves the San Francisco square every hour. Numerous charming cottages,
sprinkled here and there over a fertile zone of gardens and orange groves,
174 ITfNERABT FROM ENGLAND.
occupy the line of route as we ascend towards Tijuca. The omnibus stops at
a place called Andrahy. Here you can hire a horse or coach to ascend the
hill. The road winds round a succession of precipices disclosing at every
point the most enchanting views : the gorge below is at times 500 feet
perpendicular. There are several country-seats, where the owners reside
in summer. The road is first-rate, and at short distances there are gas
lamps. The English Hotel is in a hollow, although still at a great height ;
the proprietor is BIr. Bennett. It would be difficult even in England to
find anything to surpass the neatness, elegance, and comfort of this house.
Mr. Bennett gets up pic-nic parties twice a week to all the finest points of
scenery in this lovely neighbourhood. After seeing Tijuca you should
next make a trip to Petropolis. The first part of the journey is
made in steamboat, some fourteen miles across the bay ; the second is in
the Baron Mau(k's railway, about sixteen miles, and the rest by. diligence.
The ascent of the Sierra da Estrella, a branch of the Organ Mountains, is
most picturesque. The road is a triumph of engineering skill, the
mountain side being almost perpendicular. When you have ascended
about a thousand feet you see the road winding zig-zag below you, every
bend forming a. terrace cut-in the rock. There is no possibility of an
accident, the road being lined, over the precipice, with a stone wall four
feet high. Petropolis is at last reached after a half hour's drive over the
table-land lyiug between two ridges. It is embosomed in the mountains^
at a height of 2600 feet above the sea. The mountains rise all around like
a barrier, the vegetation is as tall and luxuriant as at Tijuca. Petropolis
is the summer residence of the Brazilian Court and aristocracy. The
Emperor's palace is a fine massive pile of building, not unlike an Italian
nobleman's villa.
The great attraction in Rio is the Botanical Garden, with an avenue of
palips that has no match in the world. The drives around byBotafogo,
Larangeiras, La Gloria, &c., are very beautiful, and omnibuses ply every
hour from the square adjoining the Emperor's palace. In the shops of Rua
Ouvidor will be found feather-flowers, beetles, jewellery, and such like
articles. The English Consulate is in the Rua Direita, Consul Mr. George
Lennon Hunt, who is also agent for the Royal Mail steamers. The.Englidi
Minister, Mr. Buckley Mathew, resides near Botafogo. The Exchange and
Post-office are in the same street as tlie Consulate and McDowell's hotel.
From Rio to Montevideo takes four or five days, according to the weather.
Pamperos are not uncommon on this coast. Far out to sea, before seeing
land, we can perceive the effect of the waters of the River Plate, changing
the color of the ocean. Maldonado is situate at the mouth of the river/md ^^j^
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ARRIVAL IN THE RIVER PLATE. 175
the^navigation is here very dangerous, o^iring to the bad arrangement of
lights. A profitable seal fishery is carried on at Lobos Island. The coast
of the Banda Oriental is low and uninteresting till we sight the (cmount)^
which has given its name to Montevideo.
Montevideo is the capital of the Bepublic of Uruguay, with a population
of 70,000 souls. The city, as seen from the bay, looks to advantage, the
towers of the Matriz Church, and the Custom-house and Caridad Hospital
being conspicuous. The best hotels are the Oriental and Americano,
charge, ds. per day. Strangers are admitted to the Club : they will find
the Dailfj Standard at the agency, Mr. G. Behrens, 103 Calle Zavala. Fully
three-fourths of the inhabitants are foreigners, including a number of
English and German merchants. There are numerous fine buildings,
especially the Bolsa, where tlie merchants meet at two p.m., every day.
The Biver Plate Telegraph Co.'s office is in the same bnilding. There
are drives to the Paso Molina, Buschenthal's quinta, and atrimwaytoUnion.
The Bev. Mr. Adams reads Divine service at eleven o'clock on Sundays, at
the English Church. The British Hospital is a small building near the fort.
The Government-house is in Calle Bincon. Major Munro is Britisfi Vicc-
Consul.. Mail-packet agent, Mr. Charles, 50 Calle Castellanos ; Tait's line,
Mr. Schwartz, 103 Calle Misiones; Liverpool steamers, Mr. Charles Home,
213 Calle Cerrito. •
The steamers leave Montevideo in the evening and arrive at the outer
roads of Buenos Ayres by daybreak. The minarets, church towers, and
cupolas give a light and fantastic appearance to the city, which, seated
some eighty feet above the western shore of the La Plata, extends about
two miles along the water's edge and forms an irregular quadrangle of 500
cnadras, or 2,000 acres, area. On near approach, the Various public
buildings can be clearly discerned, rising from the crowd of minor. edifices.
In the centre of the picture is the Custom-house, with a wharf stretching
some 600 yards into the river. On the right are seen — ^the belfry of La
Merced, the Capitania del Puerto with a flagstaff, the fine edifices of Don
Felipe Llavallol and Don Juan Anchorena, and at the extremity of the line
of beach the gas-house, close to which are the terminus of the Northern
Bailway and a battery of four guns, d fleur d^eau, used for salutes.
In the back ground of the centre we see the clock-tower of the
Cabildo, the roof" of Colon Theatre, and the poccelaiA cupola of the
Cathedral ; while further to the left rise the towers of San Francisco and
Santo Domingo, and on a slight eminence stands San Telmo. The view is
bounded by a low strip of coast edged with luxuriant vegetation, in tlie
midst of which the Biachuelo stream debouches into the Plata.GoOQlc
176 ITWEIURY FROM WKW YORE.
KEW YORK TO RUBKOS AYRES, •
The mail steamer leaves New York on the — th of each month for the
Brazils, calling at St. Thomas. From New York to St. Thomas is about
1,600 miles English, and the voyage usually takes six days.
St. Thomas is one of the Virgin Islands, recently sold by Denmark to the
United States, and situate thirty-eight miles east of Porto Rico. Area,
24 square miles; population, 12,560. The surface is elevated and rough,
highest in the centre. It was formerly well wooded ; but the cutting of
the timber has subjected it to frequent and severe droughts. The soil is
sandy and not very fertile: about 2,500 acres are under cultivation, the
principal crops being cotton and sugar. St. Thomas is open to the com-
merce of all nations : it is a depot of goods for the adjacent islands, and is
becoming an important packet station. It is visited by 3,000 vessels
annually. Capital, Charlotte Amelie.
From St. Thomas's to Par& (Brazil) the distance is nearly 1800 miles.
The town of Para, or Beleih, is situated on the river Guama, which flows
into the estuary of Pard, about 70 miles from the Atlantic, in lat. 1 .34 S., and
long. 4«.50 W. : population 28,000, including 4,000 slaves. The climate
is hot, being almost under the equator, but not unhealthy. The streets are
well laid out and paved. The houses are not generally high, but they are
substantially and often elegantly built. The town boasts a handsome
cathedral and several churches, a governor's palace, a college, schools,
hospitals, a botanic garden, a theatre, and a law-court. The anchorage is
safe and roomy, and with the exception of two shoals at the entrance of the
river, is easy of access. The approach to the town is commanded by a
small fort. The principal exports consist of cocoa, iiidia-rubber, rice,
nut3, and hides. In 1856, 5,000,000$ of India-rubber were exported.
The total value of exports during the year 1858-59, was $1,950,048, of
which no less that 42 per cent, was shipped to the United States. The
impcniis from the United States for the same year were valued at $542,379,
and consisted of manufactured articles, lumber, flour, &c.
Cape Saa Roque is distant a thousand miles from Para. After doubling
this cape, we have yet 200 miles befope reaching Pernambuco, and ft*om
this last, port the rest of the voyage is the same as the route from England
to Buenos Ay res. The total distance *from New York to Rio Janeyro is
nearly 6,000 miles. At Hlo, the passengers wait for the French or English
mail-steamers, to proceed to the River Plate ; but, it is likely the Americaa
Company will soon establish a branch-line to Montevideo.
Digitized by
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CUSTOMS LAW. 177
CHAP. xvn.
MISCELLANEOUS.
CUSTOMS^^ LAW FOE 1869.
Imporh by Water,
Art. 1. The foUowlog are duty-free: — ^gpld and silver coiaed dr in
bullion^ books, priuting-paper, plants of all kiuds, fr^siji fra^tSr ice,
firewood, charcoal, cattle for breeding, maize and maiae flou|r (ip^duced
by land), prepared tobacco for curing scab in sheep.
2. The Executive may exempt from duties the following: — ^seeds for
.agriculture, articles for Divine worship (at the order of the clerical
•authorities,) scientific instruments, machinery for steamboats, macbuiery
for mining or new industries, f uraiture and utensils for imm^ants and
other things exclusively for their ^tablishment..
3. The following shall pay 10 per cent, ad valorem >^da% ^ilks, ni^t
pi^ecious stones, geld and silver wrought, either with or without prewma
stones, all articles mounted in gold or silver, when emh mountiog
increases their value by one-third.
4- All articles not above excepted shall pay 18 per cent, ad valorem*
5< The leakage allowed on wines, aguardiente, UquorSp beer in wppd,
and vinegar, shall be calculated according to the port whence the v^essel
brings her cargo, and only in the first Argentine port she enters, vi«., 10
percent, for vessels from beyond the Line, six per ceptj. for this side of
the Line, and three per cent, within the Cape9 (at thje..pioi|tl)i, Qf Jh«
Biver Plate). ^ Digitized byGoOgk
178 CUSTOMS LAW.
Exports by- Land and Water.
6. Horse and cow bides of every kind, mule and sheep skins, and skins
in general, hide-cuttings, jerked and salted meat, salt tongue|, ostrich
feathers, bones, bone-ash, horns and horn-tips, horse-hair, wool washed
or unwashed, animal oil, grease and tallow raw or rendered, shall pay six
per cent, ad valorem.
7. Every other article of produce or manufacture, as also gold and silver
coined or in bullion, shall be admitted duty-free.
Calculation of Duties.
8. The duties shall be arranged by <cYistas» and calculated in imported
articles on their value in deposit, and in exports on their market value at
date of shipment ; always excepting such* articles as may be previously
classified and valued in the Valuation Tariff, based on the same principle.
The valuation on washed wool shall be no greater than what the tariff
stipulates for unwashed.
9. The Execjitiv^ shall fix the valuation of the articles to be included in
said Tariff.
10. Export duties sh^U be paid at the first port of shipment, being
articles cleared direct for foreign parts ; and cannot be transported by
water from one point to another of the Republic without having first paid
tbedutie^'br given the usual security. For such duties, approved bills,,
to the satisfaction of the Customs' authorities, shall be given on stcimped
pape^, atfbur mbirths.
General Regulations.
fl. Duties may be paid, at any of the Custom-houses of the Republic,
in any of the moneys declared l^al tender by law of Oct. 26th 1863, or
in the paper-money of Buenos Ayres, or in Bolivian silver at its current
yalue, or in Provincial Bank certificates for specie deposits. The copper
cwrt^ikcy dhall only be received in the proportion of 3 per cent, on the
aUMAmt playable ; and uo vouchers or documents shall be received in
paymMrt'bf dirties.
12. Goods that have paid import duties in any Custom-house of the
Republic may pass free throughout its territory; but land-transit is
il(>rbidden to those that have not paid duties, except in the case of goods
passing from Concordia, through Tederacion and Restauracion, to the
Brazilian ports on the Uruguay, or vice versa; also excepting goods in
transit from Paraguay, passmg through Federacion or Restauracion, for
Brazil or the Reimblie of Uruguay.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
STAMP LAW. 179
13. This law shall hold from January 1st 1869 to DecemlH;r 3ist of
same year.
Given at Congress, in Baenos Ayres, this 22nd day of September, ,1868. ,
Ahgel Elias, Mabiano Acosta.
Let the above be falfiUed and registered.
MITRE.
Cristobal Agviare.
Ed. Note. — ^We understand that salt for the saladeros has been recently
declared duty-free.
NATrOJfAL STAMPED PAPER (1869).
1st. The stamped paper to be used in all public . departments and
tribuoals of the nation shall be as follows : — ' *
^""O""*- For 90 Dayi. Orer 90 Days
Above $25 and under $100 ,$0 1 2c. $« Oe.
Do. 100 do. 300 0 25 0 0'
Do. 300 do. 500 0 50 0 0
Do. 500 do. , 800 0 75 0 0
Do. 800 do. 1,000 1 ^ 0 0.
Do. 1,000 do. 1,.500 1 50 0 0
Do. 1,500 do, a,«00 2 0 0 0
Do., 2,000 , -do. 2,.500 2 50 3 75
ifo. a.Eoo do. ' 3,000 3 0 4 50
Do. 3,000 do. 3,500 3 50 4 75
Do. 3,500 do. ^4,000 4 0 6 0
Do. 4,000 do. 4,500 4 50 6 75
Do. 4,500 do. 5,000 5 0 7 50
Do. 5,000 do. 5,500 5 50 7 75
»o. 5,500 do. 7,500 7 50 10 75
Do. 7,500 do. 10,000 10 0 ,5 n
Do. 10,000 do. .12,500 12 50 18 75 ,
Do. 12,500 do. 15,000 15 0 22 0
Do. 15,000 do. 20,000 20 0 30 0
.»<>• 20,000 do. 25.000 25 0 37 .^0
Do. 25,000 do. 30,000 50 0 4, n
iXf '''' "'""'^ "^ ^^''^P ^^«" '^ • P- -' -tra under or over
n2
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180
STAMP LAW.
2. All obligations subject to national jurisdiction shall be on stamped
paper as above.
3. Contracts between masters and sailors of mercliant ships shall have a
stamp of 12 cents.
4. Each leaf of a petition to the National Government, Tribunals or
offices, and all copies of documents produced in court, a stamp of 25 cents.
Guides, permits, or policies for sliipment of goods, and protocols by
Escribanos, 25 cents. The first leaf of one of the discharge manifests of
coasting crafts under 50 tons, as well as permits for loading or unloading,
25 cents. Petitions of soldiers for pay or pensions may be presented in
common paper.
5. The discharge manifest of vessels over 50 and under 100 tons, and
permits for loading and unloading, 50 cents. Copies of documents from
the archives, 50 cents.
6. The discharge manifest of vessels over 100 tons, and permiu for
loading or unloading, 75 cents.
7. Manifests of steam packets, $1. -
8. Navigation license for coasting craft under 50 tons, $2^. Discharge
manifests, and petition to load or unload, for sea-going vessels under
50tons, $2f.
9. Coasting craft ov«r" 50 tons, shall pay $3 for license, and sea-going
vessels the same for each leaf of the manifest of their cargo cleared for
foreign jiorts.
10. Sea-going vessels under 50 and over lOO toufi «ihall paf t5 for their
discharge manifest, and for petitions to load or unload.
11. Vessels over 100 tons shall pay $10 for discharge manifest, or for
petitions to load or unload. Pilots' licenses, §1 0 each.
' 12. Concessions of land or of any privilege except for Patents of
Invention, sliall pay $25.
13. Navigation license for Argentine sea-going vessels, $50.
14. The stamp shall be paid by the party presenting the document or
originating the proceedings.
15. The Judges or authorities may admit unstamped paper, with the
obligation on the parties to put on the proper stamps afterwards.
16. If any party make out or present a document in unstamped paper
he shall pay a fine of ten times the proper amount of stamp. If the stamp
be of insufficient value he shall pay the same fine, less the value of the
stamp. Notaries or others concerned in such omission shall pay the
same fine. • r^ T
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PRESIMJSX MJLTRS'S AD^Ilfl&TRAT][a|C. 181
17. Any public emplojee before wl^m a petitioa is presented iftsttfB-
ciently stamped, shall write on it «no corresponde.)) The petition shall
Q0( be admitted till the fine be paid. '
18. When any doubt arises as to the necessary amount pf stamp, the
authorities shall decide either verbally, or in writing by the Fiscal, from
which there shall be no appeal.
19. Any document may be stamped within thirty days ia Buenos Ayres ;
or if in the Provinces within sixty days, with date noted by the neatest
receiver of revenue.
20. Tickets of contracts to be afterwards formally drawn up, may be
made on unstamped paper.
21. In the first three months of the year any unused stamp of the
previous year may be exchanged.
22. Unused stamp paper of the current year may be exchanged on
payment of 3 cents per stamp.
23. In all the month of January the stamps of the previous year may be
used in any kind of petition.
2i. In contracts of monthly payment for a given term the stam^ shall be
for one-half the total amount of such paymeilts till the end.
25. This law shall hold from 1st January, 1869.
ADMlKISTRATIOIf OP PRBSIDE5T MFTRE.
1862.
April 12— General Mitre assumes the National Executive, and dismisses
the diplomatic agents appointed by the Parana Government.
May 16 — Contract and regulations for mail-coach service.
Hay 25 — Congress inaugurated at Buenos Ayres.
June 12— Decree of election for President and Vice-President.
July 10 — Proclamation to the people of Corrientes.
August 10— Minister of War sent as Rational Commissioner to CiHrientes.
August 12 — Corrientes declared in state of siege.
August 16 — ^Intervention ordered in Catamarca.
August 19 — Custom-house law for 1862. Foreign coins admitted as a
legal tender.
September 5— Exjecutive authorized to make a railway to Cordova.
September 27— Contract with D. EstebanRams for navigating the Salado.
September 29 — General census of the Republic ordered. o
182 PRESIDEffl MTTRe's ADMimiSTRATIOlf.
October' 3 — Varioits provincial departments made national.
October 4 — Congress prolongs its sessions .
October 7 — General Mitre and Don Marcos Paz elected President and
Vice-President.
October 8 — City of Buenos Ay res made temporary capital.
October 13— Dr. Bawson, Minister of Interior; Dr. Elizalde, Foreign
Affoirs ; Dr. Velez Sarsfield, Finance ; Dr. Costa, Instruction ; General
Gelly-Obes, War and Marine.
October 17 — Project to navigate the Bio Vermejo.
October 18 — ^Federal Court established: — Drs. Alsina, Carreras, Carril,
Delgado, Barros Pazos, and Pico,
October 24 — ^Appointment of Consuls-general abroad.
November 1 — Consolidation of the Parana floating debt.
November 14 — Congress closes sessions.
November 19 — becree on intervention of Consuls in case of foreigner*
dying intestate.
November 29 — Extradition of a Brazilian subject refused.
December 31 — Officers of the Independence placed on the army roll.
1863.
January 15 — Each of the Provinces, except Buenos Ayres, to receive a
subsidy of $12,000 per annum.
January 24 — Arrangement of extra-duties ydth MtaiA & Co.
January 31 — Committee named to examine coupons of foreign debt.
February 18 — Mr. Bliss sent to explore the Chaco.
March 14 — ^National college of Buenos Ayres established.
March 1 Precontract with Wheelwright for Cordoba Railway.
April 7 — ^Distribution of funds for Mendoza sufferers.
May 5 — Congress re-opens.
May 18 — ^Balcarce named envoy to France, England, Spain, and Italy.
May 23 — ^Wheelwright's concession ratified.
July 20 — ^Hopkin's project for canalising the Capitan.
August 26 — Amortization of Corrientes paper money.
September 7 — ^Executive authorised to spend £100,000 sterling in
building a hew Custom-house.
September 10 — ^Decimal system adopted. .
October 10 — Congress sessions prolonged.
October 16 — ^Projects of telegraph wires to Rosario, and to introduce
traction engines. >^ j
October 1 7— Roads and Bridges Stock authorised. digitized by V^OOgie
PRESIDENT mitre's ADBUlflSTRATION. 183
October 20 — Expenses paid to British Admiralty for sounding the riyers.
November 6 — Treaty "with Spain ratified.
November 13 — ^Payment ordered of expenses incurred in the campaign
against Rosas.
November 16 — ^Public Credit Office established. .
November 18 — Congress session closed.
December 7 — Marmol sent envoy to Brazil.
1864.
Jannary 21 — Sourdeaux's jcontract for Artesian wells.
February 29 — ^Dr. Gonsalez succeeds Dr. Sarsfield as Finance Minister.
May 12 — Congress re-opens.
June 1 0— Protocol ratified to pay BrazU $7 1 4 ,000 s.
June 15 — Executive authorised fo subscribe £40,000 to Cordoba Railway.
June 20 — ^Rosario Immigration Committee established.
July 29 — ^Contract for navigating the Upper Uruguay.
September 5 — ^Privilege to Mr, Perkins for paper mill and powder
factory,
September 24— Project of telegraph from Buenos Ayres to Montevideo.
October 1 — ^Vote of $5,000 for introduction of useful seeds.
October 3— Road projected through the Gran Chaco.
October 8 — Emission of $5,000,000 in Bonds to amortise ^missions of
1859 and 1861.
October 11 — ^Patent Office established.
October 1 1 — ^Concession of Eastern Argentine Railway.
December 9— National Colleges established in Catamarca^ Salta, Tucuman ,
San JuaU; and Mendoza. <
'1865.
January 2 — Construction of refuge huts in the Andes.
January 27 — Harrison & Mansilla's contract for six lines of steamers.
February 8 — Vote of $300 to buy useful books. • -
March 18— Intervention in Cordoba ; Dr. fiawson sent as commissioner.
April 16 — War breaks out with Paraguay; Republic in state of siege.
April 17 — Paraguayan ports declared in blockade.
April 18 — Paraguayan properties confiscated, and Seflor Egq^qoiza
arrested..
May 1 — Congress re-opens.
May 8— Horses declared an article of war. D\Q\\\ze6 by Go5Qle
May 9 — Declaration of war against Paragua^r. ^
184 PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION.
f
May 26— Treaty of Alliance ^ith Brazil and Montevideo ratified.
May 27— Loan of gi2,000,000 voted.
J^une 2 — Three days mournitig for death pf Lincoln.
June 5 — ^Vote to raise an army of 28,000 men.
June 5 — ^Riestra sent to London to negotiate loan.
June 6 — Supplemental vote of $8,000,000 for war expenses.
June 10 — General Mitre takes the field, and Vice-President Paz assumes
power.
July 7 — Hopkins' concession prolonged.
July 10 — ^Rams' concession prolonged three years.
August 16 — Extradition Treaty with Banda Oriental.
August 18— Vote of §20,000 for steam communication with New York.
August 19 — Medals to the officers and men who fought at Corrie^tes.
August 23 — Committee named to send articles to Paris Exhibition.
August 28 — Subsidy for distressed Correntino families.
September 22 — Extradition Treaty with Bolivia.
October 2— Vote of % { 5,000 for expenses of Paris Exhibition .
October 7— Vote of §15,000 for the Gualeguay Railway.
October 1 2 — Treaty of amity and commerce with Bolivia.
1866.
January 23 — Torrent sent envoy to Brazil.
May 6 — Congress re-opens.
May 1 2— Subsidy of $4 ,000 to Bioja .
June 15 — Commissioner sent to report on Welsh Colony.
June 22 — Tucuman paper money redeemed.
June 28— Treaty with Portugal of 1852 denounced.
July 7 — Seizure of 5,000 horses and 1 ,500 muled.
July 10 — Subvention of §4,000 a month to San Luis.
September 1 — Extra war credit of §4,000,000 iii Treasury notes.
September 24 — ^Telegraph project from Buenos Ayres to Chile.
September 28^Vote of a medal to all officers and soldiers in Paraguay.
October 2 — Invalid soldiers to be sent home gratis.
October 3— Various provincial debts of Buenos Ayres assutned by
the nation.
October 4 — New credit for war expenses. Intervention in Catamarca^
October 8— English debt of Buenos Ayres assumed by the nation.
October 20 — Construction of a bridge over the Rio Tercero.
October 22 — ^Municipality of Buenos Ayres restored to Provincial juris-
- Digitized by VjOOQIC
PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION. 185
Kovember 9 — ^Arrangement with Provincial Bank for 4,000,000
treasury notes. , .
Wovember 15 — Minister of War sent to look after the frontier.
November 21 — ^Pannero's intervention in Mendoza.
November 28 — Contract with Aguirre and Murga for steam-sei'vice to
Patagones for three ye^rs.
December 1 1 — Contract for telegraph to Chile.
1867.
January 10 — Buenos Ay res paper-money received for duties at 25 p0r.
January 13 — Arrangements of Paraguayan ports now occupied.
January 26 — Minister of War sent against Mendoza rebels.
February 13 — ^Wharfage dues at the Tigre established.
March 7 — Subvention to the Welsh colony.
March 22 — ^Project of telegraph to Rosario.
April 13— firant of $8,000 to cholera sufferers.
April 22 — Ecclesiastical tribunals organized.
May 3 — Fiscal appointed to prosecute Cordoba rebels.
May 14 — Projected highway from Cordoba to San Juan.
June 2 — Congress re-opeus.
July 19 — Suspension of all furloughs to ofiBcers.
August 2— A sum of $20,000 distributed among the provinces.
August 20 — General Conesa sent to put down the Cordoba rebels-
August 29 — Re-building Government^house after the fire.
September 6— Drs. Ugarte and Uriburu succeed Ministers Elizalde
and Costa.
September 12— Congress authorizes another subscription of 15,000 shares
to the Central Argentine Railway.
September 18— Vote of $18^000 tp the destitate families in Rioja.
October 3— Emission of $600,000 in Bonds.
October 14— Credit of $2,000,000 with Provincial Bank.
November 15 — Plails ordered of a projected railway from Villa Nueva to
Bio Guarto.
November 18— Minister of War sent with an army to the Interior.
November 27— Council of War ordered on General Arredondo.
November 30 — ^Intervention in Rioja ; La Fuentespe<^ial commissioner.
December 21 — New regulations about payment of export duties.
December 25— Iptervention in Santa F6; Dr. Pico special copinissioner.
1868.
January 2— Death of Vice-President Paz. the Ministers assuraie pow^.
186 PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION.
January 23 — ^Funeral honors to General Asboth, United States Minister.
January 25 — ^Resignation of Ministers Ugarte, Uriburu^ Bawsoa, and
Gonzalez. Appointment of Sarmiento (who refuses), Elizalde, Costa,
Aguirre, and Paunero, as the new Cabinet.
January 30 — Funeral honors to Vice-President Paz.
January 31 — Minister Costa's intervention in Santa F6.
February 19 — Elections ordered for new President and Vice.
February 20 — State of Siege throughout the Republic suspended.
March 4 — Sum' of ^1500 sent to cholera sufferers in Catamarca.
March 10— Subsidy of $150,000 distributed among the thirteen upper
Provinces.
March 28 — Continued subsidy to Welsh colony.
April 2 — Sum of $1500 sent to cholera sufferers in San Juan.
May 18 — Congress re-opens.
June 3 — Congress' revokes the state of siege.
June 13 — Congress calls for protocol of Triple Alliance treaty.
June 18 — ^Intervention by General Emilio Mitre in Corrientes.
August 4 — General Caceres summoned to a Council of War.
August 16 — ^D. Domingo Sarmiento declared President, and D. Adolfo
Alsina Vice-President of the Republic.
August 24 — Arrangement about Spanish claims.
August 28— Italian treaty bf 1856 prolonged for a year.
September 7 — Congress offers a premium for best system of curing beef.
September 18 — ^Proposed law to remove the capital to Rosario — vetoed.
September 23 — Treaty with Belgium for navigation t)f the Scheld.
September 23— Vote of $30,000 to Dr. Tejedor for his Penal Code.
September 26 — Vote of $1,1 1 1,000 in bonds, to pay Spanish clainis.
September 26 — Another vote of $1,430,000 for other Spanish claims.
September 30 — Census of the Republic ordered.
October 2— Export duty taken off copper.
October 8— Vote of $2,000,000 for the war.
October 10 — Cession of an island at Cape Horn to Mr. Piedrabuena.
October 10 — ^Salaries of President, Vice-President, and Ministers
increased.
October 10— Subscription of $25,0Qp to Mr. Hopkins' project of the
Capitan.
October 10— National Guard of Corrientes called out.
October 10— Vote of $30,000 to Martin de Moussy.
October 1 2— General Mitre transfers the insignia of office *^(*f^P?3Flp
President, D. Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. ^ ^e y ^
GOVERIIMEIIT ATID CONGBESS. 187
THE NATIONAL GOVERNMENT.
[^resident — Doa Domingo Faastino Sarmiento.
Vice-President — ^Dr. Adolfo Alsina.
Minister of Interior — Dr. Velez Sarsfield.
Minister of Foreign Affairs — ^Dr. Ibriano Varela.
Minister of Finance — Dr. Benjamin Gorostiaga.
Minister of Instruction — Dr. Nicolas Avellaneda.
Minister of War and Marine — Colonel Martin Gainia.
Congress.
Chamber of Senators.
President — Dr. Adolfo Alsina.
Buenos Ayres — ^Dr. Valentine Alsina, Don Felix Frias.
Entre Rios— Dr. Benjamin Victorica, Don Anjel Elias,
Corrientes— Dr. J. R. Vidal, Don W. Colodrero.
Santa F6— Dr. Joaquin Granel, Don Nicasio Oroflo.
Cordoba— Don Jos6 A. San Roman, Don Martin Piflero,
Santiago — Don Absalon Ibarra, Don J. F. Borjes.
Tucuman-^Don Uladislao Frias, Don Salustiano Zavalia.
Salta — ^Dr. Pedro Uriburu, Don Anselmo Rojo.
Jujuy — ^Don Pldcido S. Bustamante, Dr. Daniel Araoz.
Catamarca — ^Dr. Anjel Navarro, Don Joso L. Lobo.
Rioja — ^Don Guillermo Davila, Dr. Abel Bazan.
San Juan — ^Don Tadeo Rojo.« (One vacant).
Mendoza — ^Don Eusebio Blanco, Don Federico Gcnrbalan.
San Luis — Don Mauricio Darac, Don Juan Llerena.
Chamber of peputies.
Buenos Ayres— Dr. Mariano Acosta, Dr. Carlos Tejedor, Dr. Manuel
Quintana, Dr. Manuel A. Montes de Oca, Dr. Pastor Obligado, Dr. CArlos
Keen, Dr. Manuel Arauz, Don Mateo Martinez, Don Jos6 Marmol, General
Conesa. (Two vacant).
Santa F6 — Dr. Marcelino Freire, Don Pedro Lasaga.
Santiago— Don Pedro Gallo, Don Luis Frias, Don Amancio Gonsalez
Durand, Don Luciano Gorostiaga.
San Luis — ^Don Juan A. Barbeito, Don Jos6 Veloz Rua.
Tucuman— Dr. Anjel C. Padilla, Don Anjel Mendez, Don KabprC^rdoba.
•, , ^ « . ^. . L . ., ,*.,, liaitized by VJi _ ..
Mendoza — Don Francisco Civit, Don Arlstides ViUanueva. o
188 FEDERAL COURTS.
San Juan — Dr. Amaro Ciienca, Don Isidro Quiroga.
Entrp Rios — Dr. Eusebio Ocampos, Dr. Vicente A,. Montero.
Jujuy — Dr. Pablo Carrillo, Don Bufino Valle.
Catamarca — ^Dr. Adolfo Cano, Don Jos6 del Pino, Don Victoriano Tolosa.
Cordoba — ^Dr. Luis Velez, Dr. Benjamin Igarcabal, Dr. Niciforo Gasttelkno,
Don Santiago Caceres, Don Augusto Lopez, Don Marcel ino Gacitua.
Salta— Dr. Joaquin Diaz de Bedoya, Dr, Clcto Aguirre, Df. Francisco J.
Ortiz.
Bioja — Two deputies.. No election;
Corrientes — Four deputies. No election.
Supreme Federal Court,
Dr. Francisco de las Carreras, President ; Dr. Salvador M. del Carril,
DV, Francisco Delgado, Dr. Jose Barros Pazos, Dr. Benito Carrasco.
Procurator- General, Dr. Francisco Pico.
Federal Sectional Judges,
Buenos Ayres — Dr. Manuel Zavaleta, Dr. Carlos Eguia.
Entre Bios — ^Dr. Leonidas Echague.
Corrientes — Dr. Jos6 M. Guastavino.
Santa F6— Dr. Jose M. Zuviria.
Cordoba — Dr. Satumino Laspiur.
Santiago— Dr. Prdspero Garcia.
Tucuman — ^Dr. Agustin de la Vega.
Salta — ^Dr. Apolonio Ormaechea.
Catamarca — Dr. Joaqntn Quiroga.
Jujuy — ^Dr. Macedonio Gras.
Bioja — Dr. Artemio Granillo.
San Juan — Dr. Jos6 B. de la Vega^
Hendoza — Dr. Franklin Villanueva.
San JLuis — ^Dr. Pablo Saravia.
Hierarchy,
His Grace Dr. Mariano Jose de Escolada, Archbishop of Buenos Ayres.
Most Bev. Dr. Vicente B. Arellano, Bishop of Cordoba.
Most Bev. Fray Wenceslao Achaval, Bishop of Cuyo.
Most Bev. Fray B. Bizo Patron, Bishop of Salta.
Most Bev. Dr. Jos6 Maria Gelabert, Bishop of Parana. Digitized b^ GoOqIc
NATIONAI. BUDGET.
189
BUDGET FOR 1^69.
.Home Department.
President's bureau, ...■.
$38,720
Miaister of Interipr,
20,280
Congress and Public Credit, . .
315,400
Post-office,
113,049
Immigration offices, .... - . .
26,000
Contracts, .... .... . .
92,720
Official bulletin,
6,000
Public "Works,
16,000
Roads and Bridges,
160,000
Post houses, ....
30,000
Pensions,
3,384
Sliscellaneous,
20,000
Department of National Statistic
s, 4,804
Industrial patents,
6,632
Subsidies to the provinces,
210,000
$1,062,989
Foreign Affairs.
Minister's bureau,
$20,764
Legations,
81,570
$102,334
Worship and Pub
lie Instruction.
Minister's boreaa, . . . . ' . . .
$15,720
Federal Courts,
103,272
Printing,
12,000
Fiscal fees,
12,000
Miscellaneous (Justice), . . . ,
2,000
Legal Codes, ....
6,160
Bishoprics, . .... ...
109,604
Church subsidies j
30,000
liiscellaneous (Worship),
4,500
University and Colleges,
262,839
SubsidV*; for education.
100,000
Inspection »A Colleges,
4,000
Primary instrut-rion in^ioja,. . .
15,000
Books, .... ....
60,000
Miscellaneous (Instrixotion), . .
8,000
190
KATIOWAL BUDGET.
Finance Department
Minister's bureau, .... .... ^19.032
Treasury aud Comptroller's oflBce, 60,600
Custom-house, .... 647,058
Stamp office, .... .... 6^678
Fiscal buUdings, 30,000
Pensions, .... .... .... 9,884
National Credit 50,000
Miscellaneous, 20,000
War and Marine.
Minister's bureau,
$28,584
Inspector's office,
37,536
Staff officers,
356,220
Artillery,
79,122
Infantrj,
281,448
Cavalry,
394,746
National Guards, ...
184,620
Marine, .... ....
193,780
Army administration,
1,143,623
Pensions, .... ....
212,040
Independence heroes.
20,000
Indiaii subsidies, .... •
212,906
Nations for the Navy,
46,197
Extras and arrears of pay.
173,568
Miscellaneous,
80,000
$843,252
$3,444,390
Public Debt.
Emission of Jaui 1862, $2^000,000,
9 per cent, interest, . , . .
Amottisation of same, 3 per cent..
Emission of June 1861, $960,000,
6 per cents.,
Amortisation at 1 per cent.,. . • « . .
Emission of' May 1859, $800,000,
6 per cents.,
Amortisation at 1 per cent., ....
Brazilian debt, October 1868, . . . ,.
Coupons on Foreign Debt,
English coupons, after date. • • • •
$180,000
60,000
44,388
28,800
48,000
8,00<^
13a^63
I (6,000
10,000
Digitized by
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WAYS AlfD MEATfS. 19|
Emission of Oct. 1860, $3,000,000,
6 per cents., $169,112
Amortisation at 2^ per cent., 70,588
EmissionB of Nov. 1863 and Oct. 1864,
$12,000,000, at 8 per cent., 677,648
Amortisation at I per cent., .... 1 12,94 1 •
Emiasioti of Oct. 1867, $600,000, at
6 per cent., 33,882
Amortisation at 1 per cent., ..... 5,647
Emissions of Sept. and Oct. 1868,
$2,500,000, 6 per cent., .... 1 43,492
Amortisation at 1 per cent., .... 23,915
English loan of 1824, 5 per cents., ]
Amortisation, [ *
Deferred 3 per cents . , .... J 519,522
Amortisation at ^ per cent., .... J '
English loan of 1866, £2,500,000,
6 per cents., .... . ; . . 1 ,041 ,240
— — : ft3,424 038
' Total expenditure, .... $9,622,098
WAYS AND MEAIfS.
Imports, estimate for 1 869, .... $8,1 00,000
Exports, .... .... 2,250,000
Bonded stores,. ... . .... 300,000
Stamped paper, .... . . . . . ... 160,000
Post-office, .... .... 88^000
Patents of invention, .... .... 1^300
Port fees, .... .... .... .... .1,100
MisceUaneous, .... ' 49,600
$10,950,000
Estimated surplus, .... $1 ,3S7,902
COMPARATIVE TADtE 6F REVEltlJE.
Revenue for 1864, . : . . $7,005,328
Do., 1865, ....\ .... 8,295,071
Do., 1866, .... $9,351,809) n .«« v..
Extra duties for 1866, .... 216,745 > " ' ' ' ^'^'^^'^^^
Revenue for 1867 9,724,284 )
Extra duties for 1867,. . . . 2,316,003 ]"" i^,«w>i»7
Digitized by
Google
192
TABLE OP TIME.
POST-OEFICE BETURiVS.
Xetters. P4p6n<
1866, 1,894,594 .•,; l,395,56i
1867, 2,009,092 1,449,650
There are 147 Post-ofBk^es in the Bepublic, viz. :
DaiiwttfaM.
102,779
109,156
San Luis, 2 ;- San Ju^n,
2 ; Jujuy, 3 ; Salta, 3 ; Tucuman, 3 ; Mendoza, 3 ; Rioja, 3 ; Santiago, 4;
Santa Fe, 4 ; Cordoba, 4 ; Catamarca^ 5 ; Entre Rios^ 12 ; Gorrientes, 15:
and Buenos Ayres, 84. *
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF TIME,
When it is noon at Buenos Ayres it-is at —
Montevideo,^
Rio Janeyro,
jDaiiia, •••• •••• «..•
Pernambuco, .... ....
Valparaiso, .... ....
New York,
Port Royal, . • . . ....
Cape de Verd Islands, ....
St. Helena, .... . • . .
Madera, .... ....
London, ; • . . ....
X aris, .... .... .•••
St. Petersburg,
Berlin, ...•. ....
Vienna, .... •.;..
Constantinople, .... ....
Rome, .... . . .". '...'.
Venice, .... ^..a.
Madrid, .... ....
Lisbotf,. , .......
Calcutta,
Canton, . • • • ....
Jerusalem, .... ....
& ei^m, .... ...• ....
Sydney, .... . ....
New Caledonia, .... ....
Cape of Good Hope, ....
- Cairo, .... .... ....
dUvZ| ««.t t«.. •••»
ours.
MinntM
Seconds.
12
8
43 P.M.
12
42
57
1
9
32
1
34
9
11
7
50 A.M.
10
58
3&
10
47
15
2
43
32 P.M.
,3
30
44
2
45
54
3
53
13
4
2
57 •
5
54
50
4
47-
11
4
59
6
5
29^
46
4
43
25
4
42
57
3
36
53
2
17
2
9
46
57
It
26
43
6
14
.22
11
39
31
I
58
30 a.m.
3
3
29
5
7
31 P.M.
5
6
58
3
Digitiz|(Jby CjOOQ IC
SECTION B
CHAP. I.
THE CITY OF BUENOS AYRE8.
Buenos Ayres is in many respects the finest ^city in South America,
although second to Bio Janeyro in trade and population. In every otiier
respect it stands first in this Continent. Being situated in S. Lat. 34.29|
W.Long. 59.12 it enjoys a delightful climate, and is the most eligible
residence in Spanish America. The first settlers called it Santisima
Trinidad de Buenos Ayres, and it still preserves the cognomen of ccgood
air,» which it so well deserves. It covers a superficies of almost 2,000
acres, forming a parallelogram whose l(Migest sides are east and west, and
cut up like a chess-board, in blocks 150 yards square. When laid out by
the early Spaniards, the streets were made only thirty-six feet wide, and
the houses had no upper story. Since 1860 a rage for building has
prevailed, and now we see splendid edifices of three or four stories in every
street. The streets are called «calles,» and the public squares (cplazas; )»
the former are eighty-three in number, of which thirty-one run from the
river-side due West, and fifty-two from North to South. The pavement
and side-walks are bad and irregnlar ; the dty cannot yet boast street-
drainage, but is being provided witl) water-supply, and is well lighted with
gas. There are eleven parishes, containiug sixteen Catholic churches^
2 THE CITY OF BUENOS AYRES.
besides some chapels of ease, and four Protestant churches. There are
two city hospitals supported by the Municipality, and four of foreigners,
belonging to the English, French, . Italian, and Irish communities. The
theatres are three in number, besides a handsome Concert-hall. The
Custom-house o£Qces are large, but a part of this edifice is now used as the
National Government house. The Provincial Government house is close to
the University, to which latter are attached the Museum and State Library.
Pive markets, for the daily supply of the city with provisions, are placed at
convenient distances ; and the Plazas 1 1th September, and Gonstitucionare
the great wool-markets for the North and South districts of the camp.
The two killing-grounds or <cabattoirs» are situated in the extreme
outskirts of the Recoleta and Convalecencia : the former locality is
remarkable for the city cemetery, and the latter for the new and
commodious Lunatic Asylum. The Protestant or English burial-ground is
situate in Galle Victoria. Hotel accommodation is cheap and good, there
being three superior, and iRve second-rate, houses, in which the charge
varies from five to ten shillings per diem. The stranger finds himself at
once at liome in Buenos Ayres, as he can procure entr6e by a visitor's
ticket to all the clubs and societies in the city. As yet we have no public
park, but there is a project to turn Palermo, the late residence of Rosas^
into a species of Champs Eiys^es. The number of English houses i& large,
and the merchant^ constitute the most respectable class in the society of
the city; English families (including Americans) are about 1,000 in
number. There are five resident English physicians, and ten or twelve
good English schools. The police department is imperfect, there being
oniy some 200 vigilantes for the total city service. There is a barrack in
the Plaza Retire, the garrison being usually about 600 men. The artillery
magazine in Plaza Parque contains some historic pieces of large calibre.
The National Guards are drilled on Sundays during a few months in the
year. Most foreign nations are represented by a Minister and a Consul,
as vessels of all flags, and pe<iple of almost every country, are found in
this port. The British Legation is in Calle Parque : at the Consulate, 121
Calle Mayo, is the EngliBh post-office. The French Consulate serves for a
post-office to the Bordeaux monthly steamer.
The Foreign Club, in Calle San Martin, is the usual rendezvous of
visitors, who merely require to have their name put down by one of the
members. The native Clubs are fashionable aid brilliant, but mostly used
for balls : foreign visitors can easily procure invitations..
The Cathedral is one of the finest buiUings in the continent, and the j
church services on great holidc^sare solemnized with becoming splendo©'^^
THE onnr of burkos. aires. 3
Th^re are two cottveiits of fridrs; and two of (nalive) dobtered nuns;
nrfaieh escapeilthesui^ressioti of religious orders after tiie Independemce;
IMie French Sisters of Charity have nvmerous institutes and scbobls, and
the Irish Sisters of JHercy'have a school and hospital.
The National and Provincial Governments, botli, reside in the city, and
act in perfect hamnony. The Municipality, composed of a dozen leading
Argentines and fordgn residents, has its Town-hall at the Policla.
TheBolsaor Exchange is in Calle San Martin, and here the visitor will
meet all the business men of the city, native and foreign. The €k)mmercial
Booms* next door to the Capitania, -supply the latest shipj^ng intelligence,
and possess first-rate telescopes and a reading room. The €asfi de Moneda
or Bank of the Province is the headquarters of our paper-money. The
Maua Bank was the first private bank in the city, established in 1858.
The London and River Plate Bank, established in 1963, does a large
and remunerative business. The Argentine Bank is of recent date.
The Arg€«tine General Post-office, Calle Bolivar, is directed by Don
Gervasio Posadas. The chief Courts of Law are in the Gabildo, Plaza
Victoria, in the tower of which is the new town clock. The Congress-hall^
open from May to November, is in Plaza Mayo, beside the Custom-house.
Each parish has a Justice of Peace, and male and female public schools.
The inhabitants are generally well educated. There are ten daily papers,
six Spanish*, one English, one French, one German, and one Italian.
Foreiga0rs enjoy the fullest immunities, but have of course no represen-
tation or voice in the Legislature.
There are few cities that have made sudi progress as Buenos Ayres in
the last 1^ ye^rs. In 1859 we had six miles of railway; at present we
have 200 miles, on the Northern, Southern, Western and Ensenada lines.
In 1859 there was but one line of ocean steamers; now there are seven
lines Jfrom England, France, Belgium, Italy and theUSnited States. In 1859
there were but two Banks : at present there are four. In 1859 the
newspaper circulation was 3,000 daily; it now amounts to*iJO,000. In
1859 the population was 100.000, just half the present estimate. In 1859
there was not a single English joint-stock company, nor an insurance o£Qce,
in the country; to-day it would be difficult to number them. In 1859 the
number of immigrants was 4,700 ; at present the returns shew 30,000 per
annum. In 1859 the business of the Post-office comprised 400,000 letters
and papers; at present it is nearly 4,000,000. In 1859 the Customs
revenues were about £200,000; now they exceed £2.000,000 sterling.
The same increase is observable in every branch of industry oi; enterprise.
Tramways are about to be established throughout the city and suburbs,
02
( THE CITY OF BUBIIOS AYRES.
the following lines being either projected or in course of construction.
1 . From the Custom-house, along fialle Biyadavia, to the Plaza Once de
SetiemBre; 2. From Plaza Parque to Plaza Monserrat ; 3. From the Plaza
Gonstitucion terminus to the Plaza 25 de Mayo ; 4. From Plaza Libertad to
Plaza Victoria ; 5. Fr6m (the Ginco Esquinas to the village of Belgrano.
On the first first four lines the uniform charge would be ^l, the proprietors
paying the municipality 20 per cent, of the gross receipts, for use cff
the streets.
The suburbs of Belgrano, San Fernando, Flores and Barracas are pretty,
and studded with charming country seats. The Western Bailway is oJ)en
(100 miles) to Chi vilcoy, the Northern (20 miles) to the Tigre, the Great
Southern (75 miles) to Chascomus, and the Ensenada line (3 miles) to
Barracas. Pleasant boating excursions may be made to Las Conchas, the
islands of Carapachay, and the delta of the ParanA. There is almost daily
steam communication with the river ports, and diligences ply to the various
camp towns. The mortality of the city is thirteen daily or twenty-four per
mil per annum. Immigration, 2,500 monthly. Municipal income, £120,000
per annum.
Buenos Ayres is the grand centre of communication between this part
of South America and Europe. The traveller may here book himslelf for
any of the river ports in the ParanA or Uruguay, or for the upper provinces
of the Interior, or for the more distant republics of Paraguay, Bolivia, or
Chile. He may even take a steamboat trip 2,000 iliiles up the river, into
the interior of Brazil, passing Asuncion. Or if an:!eious to visit the Indian
tribes of Patagonia, he will find monthly steamboat communication with
Bahia Blanca and Bio Negro. Asa place of residence for the visitor or
invalid, no city in this hemisphere has superior attractions. The climate
is healthy, and there are a variety of public amusements, fashionable and
enlightened society, a healthy atmosphere of progress, and an almost
weekly mail from Europe.
Digitized by
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HOTELS, CLUBS, XBEAXEES.
CHAP. II.
HOTELS, CLUBS, THEATRES, A^D PLAZAS.
HOTELS.
There are three first-rate hotels, and several of lesser note —
Hotel de la PaiXy 56 Calle Cangallo, contains nearly 100 apartments, well
ventilated. The <cmirador» is one of the highest objects in the city, and
commands a splendid view. 'English, French, and Spanish spoken. The
proprietor, M. Marechal, has also a «maison meubl^,)) called Hotel San
Martin, next the Bolsa, where visitors who purpose making a long stay will
find suitable rooms with board. Charges vary from $50 to $ 1 20 {9s. to £ t )
per day, according to accommodation.
Motel du Louvre, 95 Calle San Martin, is a new house, elegantly fitted up,
and the charges are much the same as at La Paix. English and other
languages spoken.
Hotel du ProvencCy 25 Calle Cangallo; very comfortable, and much
frequented by English. Madame Boch is very attentive to families. This
is one of the oldest and most respectable houses in town. Charges, $40 a
day, and upwards.
Hotel del Globo, 38 Calle Mayo : an Italian house, well kept, with a fine
view of the roadstead. Charge, $40 a day.
Hotel de Paris, 43 Calle Mayo ; much frequented by Frenchmen ; the
dining-saloon overlooks the beach, good cuisine. Charge, §40 per day.
Hotel de Europa, 53 Calle Mayo, established in 1809, much frequented by
Dutch ship-captains; good board and attendance. Charge, $35 per day.
The Victoria Hotel, Mr. John Geoghegan proprietor, 21 Csdle Corrientes.
This house is the rendezvous of Irish sheepfarmers when thevcome to
town. Digitized by VrrOOQlC
6 i»>^iiLs aud €lv»s»
Furnished apartments, without board, may be obtained at the Universelle,
102 Calle San Martin ; the Ancla Dorada, 76 Calle Cangallo ; the Maison-
meubl6e, No. 2 Calle Mayo; Mrs. Whittaker's, 77 Calle Mayo; Mrs.
Summer's, 82 Calle Parque; Mrs. Stafford's, 190 Calle San Martin; Mr.
Lewis, 146 Florida, and other respectable English houses, all of which are
kept with the utmost neatness. The charges usual are — bed-room and
parlor $800 to $1,200 (£7 to 10£) a month; bed-room, with attendance,
$300 to $700 a month. Unfurnished rooms may be procured at $200 to '
$500 a month, and young men sometimes prefer taking lodgings with, a
native family, in order the quicker to learn Spanish. If the stranger wish
to take a house, he will find it difficult to get one in a hurry, but must
patiently advertise and wait. The best localities are the Plaza Retiro,
Drabble Row, Plaza Parque, Whitfield's quintas, and Ludlam's terrace
(Calle Defensa) : rent, from $1 ,500 to $3,000 a month.
CLUBS.
The Foreign Ciuby No. 36 Calle San MArtin, wias established in 1841, its
fii*8t President having been the head ofi the well known firm of Thomas
Duguid & Co. : it was then situate on the site* before occupied by Faoneh's
hotel, and which is no\<r the English book-store of Messrs. Mackern. The
present new building is elegant and commodious. The reading-'room is
probably the best in South America ; there is a good billiard-room, and the
coffee-room and cuisine are in English style, with reasonable chaises :
the other apartments are to match, the only drawback being that the
premises are small, aud command no view from the front. The slate in the
hall contains the latest maritime intelligence, and the saloons are crowded at
every hour in the day with the merchants of the city. The original
number of subscribers was 150, but is now 274. Entrance fee, $2,000 ;
subscription for town residents $70, for country residents $35 per mooth.
Foreign ministers, consuls, officers, and clergymen, ire admitted as
honorary members. Visitors' ticfkets, available gratis for three months,
may be procured by application to any of the members ; such tickets may
be prolonged four months more, by paying the monthly subscription.
The Club del Progreno was founded. May 1st 1852, by Messrs. Diego
Alvear, Rufino Elizalde, Gervasio A. Posadas, and Juan Martin Estrada.
Foreigners were admitted as members, and a spirit of social harmony began
to be cultivated, after the long tyranny of Rosas. The bye-laws specially
provided for balls at stated periods, which soon became the most brilliant
«reunions)) in South America. In 1859, Sr. Mufloz having concluded hiaj
Digitized by X'-^
GERMiiK CLUBS. 7
Splendid boase at tbe comer of Galley Peru dnd Victoria, tbe Club ri^moved
thitber. The suite of Mo6as is uuriyaUed, and their luxury and style
quite iu keeping with the gay and fashionable sbciety that has. gained for
the PrOgreso bails a Parisian reputation. The reading-room, library,
biHiard-room, conversation-hall, &c. are well arranged. The commercial
news of the day is marked down on a slate. Besides the taonthly balls,
there are others on the grand f^te-days of Buenos Ayres : strangers can
procure an invitation through any of the members. The number of
members is over 400 ; entrance fee, $3,000 m^ ; monthly subscription, §75.
The Club del Pteto was founded, August 6th 1860, in the building
formerly occupied by the PhiHiarmonic Society, 112 Rivadavia. The
saloons are spacious and handsome (President Derqui lodged here, on his
visit to Buenos Ayres, in 1860). The style and character of this Club are
simitar to those of the Progreso, and the balls almost as brilliant.
Foreign residents may become members, and visitors can easily procure an
invitation. Entrance fee $600, and monthly subscription $60,
The Club del Parque has been recently opened in CaUe Artes, and is a
rendezvous for the neighbors of the West end.
The Briiish Library , No. 5 Calle Defensa, was established about forty
years ago, and contains 1,600 works of general literature, besides a
reading-room furnished with the leading local and English journals : there
is a chess and smoking-room. Mr. Duffy, the librarian, is very attentive
to visitors. The rooms are open on all week days, from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
There are printed catalogues, price $5 ; and a list is posted upjeach month of
the new works received by the packet. Subscribers may take out a book
for a stated number of days, passing which a small fine is exacted.
Periodicals are likewise lent out. The subscription fof the Lending-
library and reading-room is $2 iO joiyear. Mr. Mudie supplies the institute
with books.
German Clubs — there are n6 less than nine German clubs or societies.
1. The Germania, founded in 1853, composed of •espectable tradesmen
inid their families, to the number of 250 members. They occasionally give
concc! ts, balls, and amateur theatrical performances. They have a good
reading room, with newspapers and books, also a piano, and the billiard
room and skittle ground are open daily. 2. TheGyrimastic Club, f6unded
in 1854, comprises about 400 merchants s^ clerks, who have a large hall
wherein gymnastic exercises are performed on certain days of the week :
*a small hall is being built for boys. The 14th anniversary was recently
celebrated with a great athletic match and game of skittles, attended by a
Digitized by
8 - OPERA HOUSE AND THEATRES.
number of ladies, the festivity concluding with a banquet. Th^itci are four
fine skittle grounds, and a nice garden attached to the club. 8. The
Teutonia, established in 1861, counts 100 members, mostly mercamtile
clerks, who give musical entertainments from time to time : their reading
room contains books and papers in several languages ; there are also music
and billiard rooms and a refreshment and conversation hall. 4. The
Concordia, opened in 1864, has 150 members, mostly tradesmen, who form
a musical association and have a skitfle ground, reading-room, &c. 5. The
German Singing Academy, founded in 1864, counts 400 members^ who
devote themselves entirely to the study of classical and sacred music.
Concerts are given at regular intervals in the German church and the
Coliseum, with the most brilliant success. 6. The Heimath, or ((home,)>
was founded in 1865, and has about 100 members of the mercantile class :
reading-room, billiards, and music-hall. The club has quite a musical
character. 7. The Kranken-verein, founded in 1865, is a society for the
relief of sick persons. 8. The German Hospital Society, is similar to the
last, founded in 1867, 'for the purpose of establishing a German hospital :.
a concert was given at the Coliseum towards this end. 9. The Thalia,
founded in 1867, counts already eighty members, mostly tradesmen, who
recreate themselves at skittles daily, and have also a billiard room, a good
supply of books and journals, and a music room : they sometimes give
balls and concerts. It will be seen that most of the above clubs are of
an eminently musical character, and the Germans also form a large
proportion of the Philharmonic Society. In 1865 there was a grand
gathering of all the German musical associations of Buenos Ayres,
Rosario, Montevideo and Bio Grande in the first-named city, and the
festivities were kept up for three days.
THEATRES.
Colon Theatre^ called after* Columbus, stands at the N.E. corner of Plaza
^Victoria; it is used as an opera house, and is the fiuest theatre in the
Continent. It was built in 1856, by* a joint-stock company, at a cost of
^40,000 ; the roof is of iron, and was put up by Mr. Turner of Dublin.
The architect was Mr. Charles Pelligrini. The house can conveniently hold
2,500 persons : there are three tiers of boxes, above which is the Cazuela,
for ladies only ; the upper ga^ry is called the Paraiso. In the pit there
are only gentlemen ; but a few rows of front stalls are set apart for ladies
and gentlemen. Ladies in the boxes usually wear ball dress, but tlm
etiquette in this particular is not rigid. There are tertulia seats on either
Digitized b^ VrrOOQiC
VICTORU THEATRE. 9
•side of the President's state-box, for ladies and gentlemen ; and screened
boxes below for parties in mourning. The appearance of the house, when
full, is extremely brilliant : the stageis of great size, the scenery very line,
and the orchestra good; the performances are fair enough, though not
equal to what is seen in Europe. Performances commence in winter at
7.30 P.M., and in summer at 8.30 p.m. A first-rate coffee-house is attached
to the theatre. Between the acts it is very customary to go around visiting
friends in the boxes. Smoking is not allowed in the passages. The house
is well lighted and ventilated, but the accommodation for entrance and
exit is insufficient. Performances are given three times a week. Boxes,
$200; tertulias, $30; pit, $20; cazuela, $15: besides tliese charges
every one has to pay $20 entrance ; there is no chirge to the paraiso, other
than that of entrance. The theatre is not exclusively devoted to the operas
but often used for the Spanish drama or other entertainments. Public
dinners are sometimes given here, and the annual distribution of premiums
to the State schools, on the 26th of May, is a grand function. During
. Carnival there is a series of masked balls, when the splendid suite of
saloons is also thrown open, and as many as 4,000 tickets are sold in a
night : the dancing is confined to the pit, which is crowded with the demi
monde. From the roof is obtained the finest view in Buenos Ayres, taking
in the city and suburbs a vol d^oiseau. At times even the coast of Banda
Oriental is visible — the town of Colonia, and Cerro de San Juan— but this
is an infallible sign of bad weather. There is a fire engine, with water-
tank, on the roof.
Victoria Theatre^ 344 Calle Victoria, is devoted to the Spanish drama ; it
holds 1,500 persons, but is badly constructed for sound. It is used once
or twice a year by English amateurs, who give an English play, for benefit
of the British Hospital. Boxes, $100— tertulias, $15— pit, $10— Cazuela,
$10 — and entrance $10. Performances, three times a week. The site of
this theatre was quite outside the city only sixty years ago. When building
the foundations the workmen came upon an old ditch, in which were
discovered the bones and accoutrements of a number of English soldiers
who fell in the unfortunate invasion of Whitelocke, A.D. 1807.
Franco Argentine Theatre^ in Calle Cangallo, opposite the Hotel de la
Paix, belongs to the French Bouffes, who give two or three performances
weekly. It holds 1,000 persons. This was the oldest theiitre in Buenos
Ayres, till 1857, when it was almost destroyed in a riot ; it was used as a
Custofti-house depot till 186i, when Madame Pauline converted it into
a French theatre, taking a lease of it for nine years. The performanc^le
iO THE COLISEUM.
consist of burlesques and comic operas. Upper boxes, $125 — lower
boxes, g 100— tertulia seats, $ 1 5— pit, $10— entrance, $10.
The Coliseum. This elegant concert-hall was built by the English and
German residents in 1865, in shares of £10 each, the architects being
Messrs. Hudt and Schroeder. It stands in Calle Parque, between Calles
Esmeralda and Suipacha, and cost about £12,000 sterling. Being simply
a Concert-hall, it is small but beautifully arranged, with seats for 500
persons, and cloak-rooms, ladies' apartments, dining-haU, &c. suitable
for balls, public dinners or such like purpose. The vestibule has three
entranc6-doors : the grand hall is lofty and well designed, with seven
frescoes on the left and four on the right, the other three niches on the
right being occupied by doors opening into a corridor. These frescoes,
from the palette of M. Palliere, comprise the following allegories : — we
begin on the left, 1 . Figure of Victory, a woman crowned with palm.
2. A female Bacchante. 3. A girl playing on a guitar. 4. A priestess
playing on the lyre. 5. Rustic poetry: a woman dancing and playing Ion
the triangle. 6. Comedy: FoUy with her cap and bells. 7. The Idylls:
a woman playing on the ancient double-flute. On the right side, we have
— 1. Chant de Joie: a woman playing castanetts. 2. Chant de Deuil:
female figure with urn and cypress- wreath. 3. Saorcd Song: .woman
playing an organ. 4th. Concert Music : woman playing a violin. At the
etrd of the hall, behind the orchestra, are three doors communicating with
the salle-a-matiger and ladies' apartments. The corridor on the right of the
hall leads into a small court-yard with' glass-roof, and other oat-offices.
The cloak-rooms are on either side of the vestibule at the entrance to the
hall. The front of the building is very chaste, with the motto «Artibas
et Ittusis.)) The large hall measures forty feet by eighty-five, and is
lighted by three gasoliers, with 110 jets, from the ceiling, which is forty
feet high. The hall is admirably suited for singing, there being no gallery
or other impediment to the sound. The diniqg-hall is 26x40 feet : behind
the smoking room follow the servants' apartments and kitchen The
Coliseum was inaugurated in November 1865, with a series of concerts by
Professors Reinken, Werner and Schramm. Tlie grand electric telegraph
banquet was given here in November 1866, on the completion of the cable
and wires to Montevideo. Balls and concerts are given at intervals, with
great brilliancy and success. The select concerts of the German Singing
Academy are considered very fine, but the number of invitations is
limited. The Philharmonic Society, comprising the best Argentine and
foreign amateurs, gives public concerts, whith arc always j^hionably
attended. Digitized by V^i ^
itiZ PLAZk VICTORU. ^1
PLAZAS.
The Plaza Victoria is the great sqaare of the city, covering an area of
21,000 square yards. In the centre is the column of Liberty, with the
inscription tf25 de Mayo, 1810,)) to commemorate the revolution of Buenos
Ayres, which resulted in the independence of all South America. Each
side of the plaza has a row. of paradise trees and marble seats : here the
citizens sometimes sit, on summer evenings, while a band plays. The
plaza is at times used for military reviews, the troops defiling in front of
the Policia, and the President and staff occupying the municipal balcony.
The Policia is under the direction of Don Enrique O'Gorman, who levies
fines for the infiraction of municipal regulations, and condemns minor
offenders to sweep the streets or suffer confinement for some days. The
Gabildo, erected in 171 1, was the Town Hall, under the Spaniards, and is
now the seat of the Law Courts : it was struck by lightning in 1862, but
now has a conductor. On the ground^floor are the notaries' offices, and
inside is the prison for malefactors. After 1 1 p.m. no one can pass under
this arcade. The town clock, in the Cahildo tower, was put up by Messrs.
Jaeggli & Diavet, agents fbr Roskell of Liverpool, in 1861. The former
timepiece was very irregular, the weights being of sand, which changed
under atmospheric itifluences : the present one is illuminated by night
until 12 o'clock, and keeps excellent time; its cost was £500. The
Recoba Noeva, or new arcade, is on the south side of the Plaza, and consists
of a number of shops. There is a cab stand at the corner ; the cabs are
usually better than are found in most European cities. The north side of
the Plaza is occupied by the Cathedral and the Archbishop's house. The
poHico and fagade of the Cathedral are massive and yet elegant, the
lackde being decorated with an alto-relievo of <cJoseph embracing his
btetbren,)) to commemorate the family compact of Buenos Ayres with the
Argentine Provinces after the civil wars of 1853—59. The episcopal
palace was erected by order of the Legislature of the Province of Buenos
Ayres, in 1881 : it is spacious and well-built. Alongside is an old house,
with tile roof: tlie owners refused a fabtQous price for the site, whereon it
was proposed to build a bank. At the corner of the Cathedral and Calle
San Itfortin Is a tiistoric monument — the fouudation-«tone of Buenos Ayres,
A.D. 1535: it is now cotered with an iron plate, but remained in its
original state, open to view, till 1862, when a water-cart broke off a large
piece of it. It is bearly round, and quite rough and unpolished. Don Juan
de Claray called this square the Plaza Mayor, whidi name it preserved till
August, 1806, when it gained its present name, in honor of the complete
12 PLAZA 25 DE MA.YO.
victory over General Beresford. The Recoba Vieja is a kind of Moorish
arcade, with an ugly triumphal arch of brick and mortar, in the centre.
Hair-cutters, shoemakers, confectioners, and small defilers have shops on
either side of the arcade, the back looking into Plaza Mayo. The jM'operty
belongs to Sefior Anchorena. It is a great eye-sore, and should be knocked
down as soon as possible. In front of the Becoba, municipal fireworks are
let off on the civic festivals.
The Plaza 25 de Mayo is separated from the Plaza Victoria by the Becoba
Vieja, and overlooks the river. It has the same area as the Plaza Victoria,
and the chief object of interest is the. Custom-house, which was* built in
1855 : it stands on the site of the old fort of Santa Trinidad, erected by the
•first Spanish settlers. Although possessing great historic interest the fort
was demolished, and the present inferior building put up in its place. The
old fort was the residence of the Spanish Viceroys, the headquarters of
General Beresford in the English invasion of 1805, and the scene of the
revolution of 1810. There was a tradition that the Spaniards had buried
-a great quantity of treasure here, but all efforts to discover the same have
been unsuccessful. In 1863 Mr. Wilks disinterred a large iron chest near
the spot, but the treasure, if any^ had been previously taken away. The
present Custom-house is elegant and commodious, but subject to inundation
at high tides: that portion next the Plaza is used as the PfatiOnal
Government-house, and was twice burned in 1867. In the upper story are
the President's saloons, and here foreign ministers are rec^ved. At the
entrance facing the Becoba arch, is a portico surmqunted by the national
flag^. In the civil war of 1859 the building was occupied jointly by
English, American, and French marines, with artillery. Near the corner of
Calle Balcarce is the Congress-hall, a small amphitheatre, where the
Chambers meet ddily duriag the session, from May to November. The hall
was built in 1863 by Sr. Larguia: it holds 800 persons, and the public
galleries are accessible by a wretched winding-«tair, while the ventilation
of the hall is also insufficient. The members speak sitting down. The
policeman at the door will admit no one with a walking*^stick. The ante-
chamber fbrms a large waiting-room, where mdte is servetl to the Deputies :
the other rooms are occupied by the secretaries and servants. On this site
was the old barrack for National Guards. The north side of the Plaza is
made up of the Colon theatre, the livery stables of AUinson and Malcolm,
and two large buildings at the corners of Calle Mayo used for furnished
lodgings and offices. Between the Custom-house and the Paseo Julio is
the terminus of the Northern Bailway tramway, and at this point it is
proposed to build a grand station, where th^e four city railways shall
o
PLAZA DEL RETIRO. 13
converge. In former times, political offenders and others were shot in
this Piaza. Piliado states that this plaza was formerly one vfith that of
Victoria, but at the beginning of the present century it went by tlie name
of Plaza de Perdices (partridge square) because the vendors of game and
poultry had their stands here. In 1822, when all the streets and plazas
received new names, it Was designated by its present title in honor of the
revolution against Spain. In the first plan of the cily this square Is given
to the Adelanlado or Governor. A fort called after San Baltazar of Austria
stood on the site now occupied by that part of tlie Government-house
which faces the Recoba arch.
The Plaza del Retiro^ sometimes called Plaza Marte, forms the N.E. point
of the city, at the end of Calles Florida andMaypti, just over the gas works*
It has an area of eight acres, say 42,000 square yards, and was first arranged
as a public garden in 1860. In June, 1862, the equestrian statue of General
San Martin was pot up : it is cast in bronze, and was made in Paris, repre-
senting the hero of Argentine Independence crossing the Andes : he points
tO' the streets Iffaypii and Chacabuco, called after his two great victories
over the Spaniards. Critics find fault with the horse's tail, but the figure
is altogether bold and graceful. The marble pedestal is fifteen feet high,
and the statue fifteen feet more. There are seats in various parts of the
garden, and the band on Sunday afternoons often draws a concourse of
people. The barrack of the Retire has accommodation for 1,000 men; it
formed a part of Beresfbrd's attack on the city In 1806 : a dreadful explo-
sion occufted In 1865, blowing up a great portion of the building, and
killing seventy men. The steam saw-mlU, or «carplnterla mecanlca,» of
M. Emlle Landols, was the first of the kind In these countries, and Inaugu-
rated by Governor Valentin Alsina In May 1857. M. Landcls Introduced
the most Improved machinery from France and the United States, and em-
ploys eighty operatives. At the other end of the Plaza Is a fine house, built
In English fashion, called Quinta de Laprlda ; It was for some years occu-
pied by Dr. Scrivener, and is now an English school, under the direction of
Dr. White. There is a good view of the city from this plaza. At the foot
of the hill is the Retire Station of the Northern Railway. The
city records relate that the Retire derives Its name from having been
under the early Spaniards, the retreat of a hermit, whose name, however,
is not preserved. In 1702, when the English carried on a slave trade
between Africa and -Ihe River Plate, a company of British merchants
established here a depot for slaves, and built that part of the barrack which
looks westward. Towards the close of the 18th century the other wlngj
now occupied by a park of light artillery, was erected j'^'ilifdl In 1818 tW
H PLAZAS LOUISA., AND. jPJUIQUE.
centre of the edifio^. Between IjBOO and 1818 tl^ site'i^ras u^d as a
Bullrring^ which was pulled down in tiie latter |year, and ti^e materials
were used for the barrack. In 1808 the square -was cnlted Campo de
Gloria^ alludiugto the success of the patriot forces which marched from this
point against General Beresford and re-conquered the city, in 1806,
Subsequently, in 1822, the name was changed to Plaza Marte.
The Plaza Lorea is ten blocks west of Plaza Victoria, between Galles
Rivadavia and Victoria, and derives its name from Don Isidro Lorea,
a neighbour of this loc^ality, who was killed along with his wife in the
defence of this point of the city against General Wbitelocke's troops.
Formerly it was the rendezvous of bullock-carts from the South, In 1860
a|i effort was made to sink an Artesian well ; after a great outlay, it proved
a failure. The Lorea market was established in 1864. The Plaza was
originally known as Plaza de Piedad.
The Plaza Monserrat, at the junction of Calles Belgrano and Buen Orden,
is a small square,, about two acres in extent, deriving its name from the
adjoining church of Our Lady of Monserrat. Behind the Plaza, in Caller
Lima, is the temporary station of the tramway running to the Southern
terminus in the Plaza Constitucion. In 1860 the Plaza was rented out to a
Circus Company, but now it is neatly arranged, with trees and seafts. The
proper name of this square is Plaza General San, Martiii, but it is usually
knoWn by the name given it by the first settlers. In 1808 it was ordered
to be designated as Plaza de Fidelidad in commemoration of the fidelity of
the negroes, Indians, and cross-breeds who formed a volunteer battalion
and drilled in this place to aid in repelling the English invasions of 1806
and 1807. In 1822 the name was chs^ged to Plaza Bu^n Orden; a^d
again in 1849 Bosas varied it by calling the Plaza after the hero of Argentine
Independence, putting up at the same time on each comer the following
inscriptionr-«Campaign of the Andes, from December 12th, 1816, to
February 12th, 18l7.»
The Plaza del Par que is situated in the west-end of town, and derives its
name from the Artillery magazine^ where some rar<e old guns are still pre-
served. The plaza covers eight acres, and is nicely laid out, ,wi|th a casino
in the centre, and merry-go-rounds for children. A band playp every Sun-
day afternoon, but the company is not so fashionable as at theBetiro. The
"Western Railway bisects the plaza diagopally, and there are some, .fine houses
in the neighborhood. In 1861 it was made a public garden, with paradise
trees, seats, and railings. On the north side is the magnificent residence
of Senor Mir6, surrounded by neat gardens. The Western Bailway terrai-^
uus is on the east side— and here was started the first railway in the Bive^i^
PLA.ZAS INDEPEIfDENGU A:E(|> SETIEMBRE. 15
Plate. This line belongs to the Provincial Government, and runs as far as
Chivilcoy, 101 miles westward.. It is being prolonged to Bragado.
The Plaza tihcrtad is a small square of four acres, close to the Parque ;
in 1862 it was laid out and planted, previous to. which time the bullock-
carts used to encamp here. As yet, there are few ijue houses, althougl^
the situation is high and favorable. This square j previous to 1822, was
known as Hueco de Bofla Engracia, that being the name of the lady who
benevolently ceded it to the city for a public square. Adjacent to this
square, in Calle Libertad, is the French Hospital, under charge of the
«$(£urs de Charit6)).
The Plaza Iridcpendcnciay at the junction of Calles Independencia and
Buen Orden, is in the south end, covering an area of 3 acres, and recently
laid out as a public garden. It was formerly called Plaza de Concepcion,
from the adjoining church of that name, the roof of which fell in (1860)
while in course of construction: the ediflce is now nearly finished.
Beside the church is a «corriilon)) sometimes used for a barrack. In the
siege of 1 859 the Plaza was made an artillery depot. Hard-by is the institute
of Los Ejercicios, a house of detention for women who may have been
guilty of minor offences. The Plaza is called after the Independence of
the Argentine Republic, proclaimed at Tucuman, July 9th, 1816.
The Plaza Constitucion^ at. the extreme south point of the city, is a large,
open space, covering about twenty acres. All the. bullock-carts from the
South, Avith wool and hides, encamp here, to the number of several
hundreds, although they are going very much out of fashion since the
opening of the Southern Railway. Large deposit stores or <cbarracas» are
in the neighbourhood. The. tramway runs through the Plaza, and the
Southern terminus is a handsome and commodious structure : the Southern
Railway runs out seventy-two miles, to Chascomus. A little beyond
the Plaza are the Mataderos where cattle are killed for th^ city markets*
Tlie brokers have a club and veading-room In the Plaza, whe^re they meet to
transact business. The busy wool-season is from November to March.
The Plaza Once de Setiembre^ at the extreme west of the city, has an area
of twelve acres ; it is the great produce market for the wesjtern arid nortlf epn
districts. During the wool season this place is crowded with Irish sheep-
farmers: Mr. Doggan do^s the chief businesc: with his countrymen, and
has large deposit stores in .the Plaza. The Once de Setiembre (11th of
September) is so called, in commemoration of a reYoli|t],ou on that day
(1852) which expelled General Urquiza from Buenos Ayres; an insigui-
iScant statue once decorated the Plaza, but it has been rempved to th^
Parque casino. The new workshops of th^ Western Railway d^ worthy
16 CITY MARKETS.
of note, and behind them is Mr. Ryan's fflavaderow for washing sheep-
skins. There are some large mills, and Demarchi's ice-factory, in the
neighbourhood. The Plaza is twenty-three wcuadras)), nearly two miles,
west of Plaza Victoria, and an omnibus plies every quarter-hour, fare $5.
It is also the first station on the Western Railway, being one and a-half
miles from the Parque terminus.
MARKETS.
There are five city markets for the supply of meat, vegetables, poultry,
frtiit, fish, flowers, singing-birds, butter, cheese, eggs, &c. Beef and
mutton are brought in carts from the mataderos ; vegetables and fruit are
mostly supplied by the Italian «quinteros)) of the suburbs ; the river al-
ways gives an abundance of dorado, pejerey, bagre, and other excellent
kinds of fish ; the railway trains bring in a profusion of partridge, duck,
and domestic poultry ; and the «chacreros)> of Moron, Quilmes, &c., raise
most of the butter and eggs. Moreover, fruit is often brought from
Montevideo or Brazil, and sometimes cheese and butter from the Swiss
colonies of Entre Rios or Santa F6. The best potatoes come from Baradero,
the Carapachay islands and Chivilcoy ; the best peaches from Point
Santiago, Ensenada ; the best meat is that killed in the camp, and brought
in by rail; and the best butter is that from English-bred cows. The city
is supplied with milk by a number of Basque «lecheros,» who come in on
horseback every morning from Quilmes, Lomas de Zamora, and Moron.
The pork raised in the country is to be avoided, the pigs being usually
fed in the saladeros. Game is always abundant and cheap ; poultry is
very dear. The best hour for marketing is five o'clock a.m. It is necessary
to beware of buying wtir^dw beef, which- looks sound, but is apt to cause
diarrhoea. The usual market prices are as follows : — ^Beef, §1 per % ; fish,
$3 ; potatoes, $1 ; vegetables, $2 ; partridges; § 10 per pair ; ducks, $10;
chickens, $25 ; turkeys, $40 each; butter, $15 per tt; eggs, $10 per doz.;
mutton, $10 per quarter; peaches, $1 per doz.
The Old Market is at the corner of Calles Potosi and Peru, and is as old
as the city itself. It was formerly very unclean and inconvenient, till
Messrs. Urien rebuilt it in its present form, in 1864 : it is still much too
small, not quite two acres, and is surrounded on all sides with houses,
preventing proper ventilation. Until 1859 it was the only market in the
city. The fees for market stalls form a part of the municipal revenue, and
no one can open a shop for meat or vegetables within a certain distance
(half-a-mile or so) of any of the markets. The chief entrances to the Old
Crtt MiKMtS. 17
Market are at the corners of Calles Potosi^ Ghacabuco, and Moreno.
In 1865 some excavations ^ere made opposite to the University, ^hen a
quantity of long hair was found in an old well : the site had been, at the
beginning of this century, occupied by a barrack for the Blandengues or
militia frontier regiment, who, on being ordered to cut their hair short,
mutinied and were only quelled after much bloodshed. The Old Market
is in the most central and populous part of the town.
The Mercado del Plata^ at the junction of Calles Artes and Cuyo, was
built in 1839 and called (cThe New Market, j> occupying an area of less than
two acres. It was formerly called Plaza de Union, because here the
patriots assembled to expel Whitelocke. In 1822 the name was changed
to Plaza Artes. It was partly burnt down in 1863. The stall-keepers are
mostly Italians, and the market is always well supplied. It is the only
market in the N.E. comer of the town.
The Mercado del Comercio was erected in 1862 and inaugurated by
General Mitre : it occupies a small square (J of an acre) that was formerly
ealled Plaza de Comercio, and previous 'to 1822? known as- Plaza de
Besidencia. This market answers for the extreme south end of the city,
being ten cuadras S. of Plaza Victoria.
The Merckda^e Lotea wds openierd by Governor Saavecbrain t&64, adjacent
to the Plaza Lorea, and covering about one acre. It is fitted up with great
taste, but.does. not belong to the Municipality, the owners being several
private parties who purchased the right to open the market on their own
account, for the. benefit of the large population in the west end of the
town : it is situate eight cuadras west of the Old Market.
The Mercado de>Independeneiay at Che corner of Calles Independencia and
Lima, is less than an acre in extent, and not so well supplied as flie other
markets. It was opened in 1868, for the S.W. quarter of the city. '
The Mercado dd Norte was'opened by Don Eduardo Madeipo in 1867, in a
site formerly used as a jiursery, at the junction of Calles Florida and
Cordoba. It covered ai| area of two acres, and was intended to supply
the north end of the town, being fitted up ill excellent style. It has not,
however, prt>v€kl Bnecessful, and is now used as aGustonis deposit, called
thetAdutoa Chica, whereall cargoes by steamers from abroad ar^ deposited^
it is the great bonded warehouse 9f foreign importers.
Digitized by
P
Google
18 . PUBLICip^P4A7Mp|l1}S.
CHAP. in.
P U B lie DEPARTMENT 8.
GOVERWMEWT-HOUSE, POST-OFFICE, P<^UCIA.
The National Gfivt^rnftent-Bm^, in Plaza 25( de Mayo, is an oilsigfatly aiid
irregular ^^ifioe r it :wa^ t^iQe partially biirat in 1867, when man jiralQable
documents >fer^ lo§t. Tbe Prewl^nt.'a.saloottSc, upstair^, lure fine and airy,
^ith a goo4 viQw p£ tke port : b^re the Foreign Ministers are received
^kenr prersenting their <u*edentiato. Tbe via^ious Depakiinfcents of the
Interior, Foreign AfJBaijrs, Finance, Instruction, and War, have their b£Boes
in tbe ^^me^b^ldingi: oiSce hours, Irom 1 1 a>m. to A p.m. The c^ffices of the
Tesoreria and Contaduria ai?e. on the ^ouad floor.
The Stamp Office i3 in tbe new Custom-house, open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
for the sal$ of ])(atpncd stamped paper. Thirty days are allowed hj
law for stamping notes or documents of any kind. After .that period any
UAStamped.pap^r brought before any C4)urt must pay a fine ten times ttu^
aI^ol^lt of the proper st9fnp> Old stamps, not used, may be exchanged.
The Provincial Stamp dffiee i& ia the GoTernment-ho«se,; Calle Moreno,
aqdher^all d^ume9t% e]|:cepjb for the Gustom-kDuse or Federal Gob^ts/
must be stamped.
The Post-Office^ 1 15 Calle Bolivar, is lodged in very small and inconve-
nient premises. Mr. Posadas has greatly reformed this bianch of the
public service, but there is still great room for improvement, if the revenue
would admit. The principal hall foi* despatch of business is well arranged
and has a bust of Rivadavia. Mr. Hansen and others of the officials speak.
THE POST-OFFIGB. . 19^
Eaglish. Office hours in samqier, from 8 a.m^ ta 4 p.m*> w4 iq tbereveoiiig'
from $p.M. to 7 P.M. : in y/inX^r from 8 a.m. to 4PfM. On Snndaljrg and
holidays, from 9 a.m. to noon ; but wlieu the maifs from Europe anive the
office is kept open indefinitely. Over. 4,000,000 papers and letters pass,
through the office in the year. There are branch-offices at the Cq^tain df
the Port's and the various railway stations. Letters are delivered through
town twice a day. The mails are despatched every day to the principal
towns in the province of Buenos Ayres, yiz. — 1. By tiie Western Railway
toFlores, San Martin, Moron^ Merlo^ Moreno, Matanz83y Lujan, Mercedes,
Chivilcoy , Las Heras, and Ghacahuco : thene are diligences plying fyom these
various stations, which take mails to the following,towas: Pilar, Capilla
del Seflor, San Antonio, Arrecifes, Lobos, Saladillo, 25 de Mayo, Giles,
Fortin de Areco, $alto, Rojas, Pergamino, ^unin, Navarro, Bragado, and
Mueve de Julio. 2. By the Northern Railway to Belgrano, S^ Isidro, San
Fernando, Tigre, and Conchas : the steamboats from the Tigre tak^e mails
three times a week to Zarate, Baradero, San Pedro, San Nicolas, Rosaria,
Santa F^, Parana, ai4 Gualeguay;. 3, By the Southiei^ Railway to Barracas,
Lomas de Zamorra, San. Vicente, Ghascomus,* and interimecUate stations,
from which the dUigences rad^te to Ranohos, GaUuelas, Monte, Las Flores,
Tapalquen, Dolores, Pila, Vecino, MonsaJlvo, Ajd, Tordillo, Har-Ghiquita,
Loberia, Tandil, Juarez, and Azul. 4f By the Boca railway, to the Boca
and Barracas. &. The diligence goes twice a week to Quihnes, Ensenada,
and Magdalena . 6 . To Bahia Blanca and Patagones by steamer once a month .
7. To Gordoba, Tucuman, Salta and the northern provinces three timed a
wee^, via Bo^ario. 8. To San Luis, Mendoza, andSan Juan, once a week,
via Rosario. 9. To Ghile, Peru, and the other Spanish republics, once a week,
via Rosario and iMendoza. 10. To Gorrientes and Paraguay by steamer
twice a week. ' 1 1 . To Santa Fe twice a week. 12. To Salto, Paysandi),
Goncepcion and other ports of the Uruguay twice a' week. 13. To
Montevideo every evening. 14. To Europe by the ftrench ppcfcet and the
English packets every month, as also by the Live^ool, London, and
Marseilles' lines of steamers. 15. To Brazil via Montevideo by the
Brazilian, English^ and French mail-stean^ers, . eight times a month. All
letters must be prepaid, except those directed to the President, Governors,
or Ministers of State, and any letters found linstampedj in
the Buzon, will be detained and published, as well as those without a
direction. Lettersi may be certified or Tegistered, for greater security.
The post-office will take no letters outside the mail-bags : ship-captains or
passengers having letters must deliver them on arrival^. .tg^J^e Captttin of
the Port. Army-letters are carried free. Letters uncalled for are
P2
20 PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS.
published eyery three months, and burned at the end pf the^ year, in
presence of the propet authorities, aftfer first taking out any documents
thattmay^ of value. *'}€ is prohibited to send money or articles of valtie,
through Ihe post, even in regist^t'ed letters: such articles must be
forwarded through steamboats or other agencies ; samples of goods through
the Custom-house. Special couriers for private parties pay ten cents per
league, besides the usual postage. The law of 1863 fixes the posting
charges in the upper provinces at one real (6tf.) per league for each liorse.
The post-house keepers miist always provide travellers with horses, and
give them hospitality at coiiventional tei^ms. Parties carrying unstamped
letters are fined $50 or imprisotied for sit months. Robbing the mail is
punishable with four years penal service. The tariff for all letters is five
cents (or §1 J Buenos Aytes currency) f6r letters not exceeding J oz,; ten
centsfor ^oz.yandso on. Registering a letter costs twenty-five cents
extra. Books, pictures, music, &c. pay five cents per %. Newspapers for
all parts go free* This does not include the charges made in foreign
countries, viz., England or France, for letters or papers carried by the
mail'Steamers. Street deliver^ in town is charged five cents extra.
Boxe;» are set apart in the Gorreo for the chief mercantile houses, to the
number of 800, at a charge of $200 m|c. per annum. The stamps newly
made by the WeW York bank-note company are very neat, and as follows —
Rivadavia's head, pink, five cents ; General Belgrano's, green, ten cents;
General San Marlines, blue, fifteen cents. The Postmaster-General, Sefi'or
Fosadfts, has authority over all the postmasters in the fourteen Argentine
ProvuKjeS; they are 160 in number. On the right of the ((patiow are
hung around the wall alphabetical lists of letters not yet called for, with
the proper number attached. Strangers must either produce a document
of their identity, or seek assistance at the Standard office, close by, %t 74 Calle
Belgrano. The house at present occupied by the Gorreo was built by Don
Martin Rodriguez de Vega, who bequeathed it for benefit of the Ejercicios
asylum. It is propos^ now to purchase the Bolsa and convert it into a
post-office. The first xorre.o established in Buenos Ayres was by Don
Dqmingo Basabilvaso, in 1748.
The Polite Department is in Plaza Victoria ; the Chief of Police has two
secretaries, a treasurer, 28 clerks, two physicians, a jailer, a watchmaker,
21 commissaries,. 17 sergeants, 129 vigilantes, and 240 serenos. The city
is divided into 1 4. Sections, each of which is under the care of a commissary,
who arrests offenders, and levies fines for breach of municipal regulations.
When he arrests iatiyone he must send in a report of same within twenty-four
hours: he cannot enter a house without a written order^ or incases of ale
STATE LIBBART AMD LEGISLATURE. 21
flagranti delicto. The policemen wear swords, and alwajsgoon borpehack :
they do not go on beats as in Europe, but 6an only be found at the
Comisaria of the section. Minor offences ^re punishable by fine, or
detention for an equivalent number of ho^rs. The Correctional Judge
tries ordinary police cases, but there is appeal to the superior tribunals.
In cases of any serious cringe the offender is removed from the prison of
the Poltcia to that of the Gabildo. The serenos, or night-watchmen, are
natives of Galicia: they sing the hours from 11 p.M.to5A.M.,andcarryapistol,
a cutlass, and a lantern. Serenos were first got up by voluntary subscription
in 1834, apd shortly afterwards* established by law : there are 60 mounted
and 180 on foot, uader the direction of an Adjutant-major and seven
Adjutants. The annual cost of the serenos is about $1,300,000. The
police service is miserably defective, but happily the inhabitants are in
general orderly and well-conducted. It is intended by Government to
send to England or the United States for police-oflfcjers, so as to prgapize a
proper force for the city. There w a firq-engine. attached to the Policia,
but it has never proved of any use *
PROVINCUIf DBPARTltfBKTS, LIBBART, LEGISLATURE.
The Provincial Government-house YfdiS buUt byBosas, aotd KHk^npieshaif a
«cuadra» between Galles Bolivar, Moreno, and Peru. ; 1%^ entrance is :in
Calle liioreno, and aroi^nd a, spacious court-yard ar^ tl|^ various public
offices. The Governor of Buenos Ayres has his apartments on the right ;
an aide-de-camp receives visitors in the ante-chambey. The Minister of
Government, the Inspector of Arms, and other officials, have offices on the
left. The Finance Department is in the second <^patio.» Parties wishing
to inspect the Gontribucion Directa books for th^jcity or province: can do so
free of charge : Ihej form a complete Register of the various propeirties,
their owners, and valuati^on. The tax for «patentes,» or licenses^ for the
various trades and professions, is payable at an office in this building, with
separate entrance in Calle Moreno.
The State Library is in Calle Moreno, opposite the Government-house,
occupying seven saloons in the upper story. There are 18,740 volumes,
and 101 manuscripts, most of which belonged to the Jesuits, and are
valuable for their antiquity ; there is also a number of foreign works in all
languages, some on general science, others on Sbuth America. 'The chief
librarian is Don Jos6 Marmol, the poet, it is a pity that there is no
catalogue. The assistant librarians will procure any hook that is required,
and cdso supply pen and ink to take notes, if necessary. The li^ary is
22 ^ PUBLIC D£PARTBI£1ITS.
open to the public, free, on all week days, from 10 a.m. to ,2 p.m. J^o
smtjiing or conversation allowed. Tbe average attendance of visitors dpes
not exceed a dozen daily. The library was established by Moreno in 1810,
but suffered afterwards to 'fall into decay. la 1822 there were 20,000
volumes, and in 1851 only 15,000. Since the latter date it has been much
increased, and the publishers of all new works in the country have to
present a copy. There is a complete collection of all newspapers published
here and in Montevideo.
The Chambers of the Legislature of Buenos At/res have their principal
entrance in Calle Peru, with a side entrance for the public in Calle Moreno,
next the State Library. The Chamber is small but elegant, in the shape of
an amphitheatre, dimly lighted from the roof. The President and Secret
taries of the Chamber sit on a raised bench, under which are the reporters.
The galleries for the public giye accommodation to 400 persons. The
Senators and deputies meet here alternately, and the Provincial Ministers
attend when summoned. The ante-chambei's are small and old-fashioned :
here the members take mdte. There^ a suite of rooms occupied by clerks
and officials. The Legislature is composed of twenty-fovr Senators and
fifty Deputies, elected by the various partidos or electoral districts of the
Province of Buenos Ayres. The Hall of Session was built in 1822, by Don
Prospero Catelin, and repaired in 1864. It occupies the court-yard of the
old Jesuit buijdltig, standing on the exact spot formerly occupied by the
dungeon in which th^' folio wers of the famous cacique Tupac AmAruwe?*e
confined aft^r their attempted revolution in 1 780.
TOPOGRAPHIC OFFICE^ ARCHIVES, COMMISSARIAT.
The Topographic Department is in the premises formerly devoted to the
Tribunal of Commerce, to which access Is gained by a steep staircase from
Calie Peru. TIU6 office was founded by Rivadavia in 1824, and is managed
by Don Satumino Salas and an efficient staff of civil engineers, coriiprising ^
Messrs. German Kuhi*, Pedro Benoit, Antonio Malaver, and Ignaclo
Xasagemas. This department published in 1866 an admirable map— six
feet by four and a-half— of the Province of Buenos Ayres, showing minutely
every estanda and all the natural features of the various partidos. It also
published in 1867 a similar mapbf the city and suburbs. The business of
the office is to keep a correct register of the sub-divisions of property, to
examine and approve afi surveys of land, to give licenses for building
houses in town, and to make whatever charts, maps, or plans may be
required by the authorities. It also serves as an academy for surveyors,
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
STATE AXI»tVM Alifl^ OOlkiaSSABIAT. 23
i^hohave to undeFgo a i^eTere examinittioti in the tlieory and practice of
isnrveying before being allowed to practise their profession. The chief of
the department has a salary of $6,000 a month.
The Dspartment of Schools adjoins the last-mentioned, and is under the
charge of DonlUattael I; Pefla. Here are deposited the supplies of books
and fnrnitttre for the StiAe schools. After the fall of Rosas, in 1852, Dr.
Viceate Fidel Lopez wns named fttinister of Instruction, and undertook to
re-model the system of education: in October of same year the Department
of Schools was established. Don Santiago Estrada is the present Inspector
of Schools.
The State Archives are in the same building, under the direction of Don
Mannel R. Trelles, assisted by seven clerks : here are kept the valuable
records of Buenos Ayres since the Conquest, which throw such light on the
history of the Vice-royalty of La Plata and the neighboring countries of
Spanish America. Important documents and title-deeds, which belong to
Paraguay, Truman, the Guyo prorinces, and the Banda Oriental, still
remain in this department. Sr. Treiles also publishes a half-yearly tolume
of statistics referring to the Province of Buenos Ay res : the iTifc>rmntion at
hisidisposalis^9odefeetive,thi(t his efforts are tW more creditable. The
<i0ateiAH of the archives are— 7,500 bundles of docaments, C,167 ftccouot-
hoiAM^ »,700 printed hMks and pamj^hlets, and a number of periodicals.
>Sinbe 1857 SeilorTlrelteshks published twenty volumes of ancient records
«nd'sOafistibal reports. '
•Iflte NatiiMal StatiaUfkli>^riihent j^tnhie at 64 Galle BelgratiO, is under
tiie direotioa of Mr. Bamian Hudson; this gentleman, who is eminently
«qnisdii^d for tbe post; is a native ^f San Juan, aiid Son to an American
wttleir. He cotoinlds. the various official returns ^ fr6m the fourteen
. farbiHMdSr '^i^b^ ^^^ scattered end imperfect. A iiationd' census has
been . ordered, and will probably b^ carried out on the wiiid-up of the
Paraguayan war. The Customs' Department publishes its own statistics
half^j^early.
(kmm^aTiat^6enerttl.—T!his department was formeriy situdte in Calle
Bolivar; adjoming the Provincial Government-house; it is now located in
the National GcFvernraent-housfe, Plaza Mayo. The Commissary-General,
Don JfoB* Liiib Amadeo, lias to contratt for and examine all supplies of
provisions, clothing, &c., ifbr the army and navy, as well as for the friendly
Indian tribes of CalfocurA, Coliqueo, and others on the frontier. Tenders
fbr such supplies must be lodged at this office, which also gives the
order for payment when the goods have been duly examined an4
-Approved. Dmze6^y ■ ^
*. >
24 ; , WBUG iDERAMMHTS,
BARQDRy ;C01fPRES3. HALli,:QiLPITUfU: * i
The Parquej or Artillery: M^gaziue^ situate in the Plaza Barqn^, covers
an eiitir,e <xcuadra.» It was fom^ded bj the famous patriot Moreno^ who
served as Minister of War in t^ie epoch of Independence. The collection of
guns is more remarkable for antiquity than usefulness, most of them being
old bronze pieces of the Spaniards, with quaint iascriptions-H-ccOltima r^tio
regum,» «E1 Bey Carlos me hizo,» &c. Visitors are admitted gratis, and
the stranger will be amused to see that smok.ing is not prohibited : the
magazine, however, is said to contain no powder. Gannon balls are piled
up in the yard, and the old guns, are exposed to the inclemency of the
weajther : some interesting old canupns are still seen at some of tfie street
corners through town. The powder depots are outside the city, near
Palermo,. The Parque has seven large store-rooms, in one of which was
recently kept one of Krupp's steel guns; there are lalso^ five workshops, a
hall of arms, and a number of apartments for use of tbe officials and
operatives. ^
The Conffress'hall, ii^ Plaza Mayo, was erected by Presidfait Mitre's
Govei^nment for th^ ;first united Argentine parliament on the reteioval of the
metropolis to Buenos Ayres, and inau^puraf ed in May 1864. The irofit is
small pnd unpretending: the chief enjtrqqce,, ^urniounted by thi$ KaEkional
arms, consists of three iron gates, opening into a pari^le portiea^ iandfoaly
the members of Congress, public dignitaries* oi: Foreign Minister^ are
adfl^ltted ]t)y tbip access. The rig^t wiiD^g of the building \iA dev<ftedJk> the
use of thePubiic Cre(UtDepartmen]t,,a|)4p^the ieft.i6;ttaieietttr)uioefforth&
public to thegap^ries of th^tHftU. Congr^^ is cpnpo^eddf VtcekPSr^dent
Alsina, 28, S(?i^a^ors, and 49- D^nties, tbe^eb^ingitwo SenStors.tot each
province, wd Di^puties in, the ifoUqwing ratio— Buenos Ayres J 2, Cordoba 6,
Corrientes 4, Santiago 4, Tqcuman.3, Catainarca 3, 6aUa 3, San Jiaan 2,
Mendoza 2, San Luis 2, lujuy 3, Bic^ja 2, Entrp B^os 2, Santa F^ 2. The
sessions open in the first week of May and close in October, but there is
usually aq extraordinary session till Nfivember to conclude the .current
business of the year. Tj^lie Deputies ^receive a salary of $4,Q003» per
annum : some of them reside altogether in, Buenos Ayres.
The National Credii Office was organized on 16th P^foyembfr^ 1863, and
conimcnced its labors on January 2nd, 1864, the board being composed of
Messrs. L,uca$ Gonzalez, Alejo Arocen^, Manuel Zavaleta? Jps6 Mar^ Gantilo,
and Martm Estrada, with the following employees : Don «ruan I)ominguez,
secretary; Don Alfonso de Maria, treasurer; Dpn Bamon Re^abal, book-
keeper ; Don Cipriano Quesada, assistant clerk. Theaccounts immediatelitT^
Digitized by rS
. BDllbIC GHEDTT (OVBICE. 25
siiluBitteid to tb€dr*care^*eret&efoU0ViQg-^l . Th:^ Public teiAs of October
1st, 1«66^ for $3,000,0D0w 2. The protiskmal bonds of Octobisr 20th,
1863, for the Parand bonds and Treasury notes up to Ut April, 1881.
3, The cjcedits admitted by GoTernment as layrfdlly proceeding from the
Parana floating debt, subsequent to. April 1861. 4. The compensation
awarded by law of November 1863 for itauxillosw given to Lavalle's army
against Bosas. 5. Six per cents awarded by Congress for claims of
indemnity. 6. The bonds and coupons given in payment of foreign claims
for injuries sustained in the civil wars. 7. The petitions of the widows
and relatives of Generals Lavalle, La Madrid, and Paz. The treasurer
was to have charge of all funds foif payment of coupons and amortization,
but not to pay anything without written order from the chairman of the
board. All coupons to be paid faithfully within the eight days fix^ed by
law. The boncb were issued in five series, as follows: Serie A, $100 —
Serie B, $600— Serie C, $1,000— Serie |>, 2,600— Serie E, $5,000, each
having forty coippons aimei^ed, one payable every quarter, and then bumed«
Whenever a coupon became payaUe it was necessi^ry to present the whole
Bond and hate it compared with the corresponding block, which was cut
z|g-zag. Kererthelessa^great forgery was. discovered in October, 1868,
imD4f4iatQly after Presideiit SannientQ entered office, wh^eby it afi^^red
that duplicate bonds, signed by the proper authorities, had beien regularly
admitted and the coupona ppid for somid ye^s batek. U , was concluded
that in the signing of so many thousand coupons several duplicates were
introduced surreptitiously, and the parties suspected of the fraud were no
longer in the country, nor was there any proof suflBciently inculpating
anyone in particular. .-The Paraguayan war caused new loans and frequent
emissions of Public Funds, all which are specified in the budget for 1869 :
see ^tion A, pi^gelOl •
HhQProvi^al Ct^i ,Qffice, U Calle Moreno, was established in 1821.
The board consists o£ su: pemms nam^d.by Government, tod an' aci;onntant
(Who has a salary of $4,000 a month. Tlie accounts under ttieir^charge are
9S lollows: — 1 * Original issue of six per cent. 28,000,000, and of four per
. i^ents. 9,000,000. 2. I^sne of 10,000,)000 six per cents in Septetnber 1856.
, 3. Issue of 12,000^000 six per caats in July 1858. All these sums are in
the paper currency of . Buenos Ayres^ and the annual interest amounts to
$3,821, 592m^, or; about £30,500 sterling, besides an amortization or
sinking-fund of $630;000ni^ per annum, equivalent to one per cent.
Untif assumed by the National Treasury in 1864 there were two other
' debts at the charge of the Province, viz. : that of May 1 839, for 20,000,000 ;
and of June 1861 for 24,000,000; the annti^ interest of both amounting
26 . PUBLIC DHPJ^RTiamTS.
t6 $2fiMitmmk, and the siilking^od <o $B2»,«00. Tbe Brigiisb Imn of
1836, tiK Buenos kjre^y was abo a preyincial* Idtebt until assuliidli bjfhe
natsioam 1864.
The Capitama, or Captain of the Port's office, is silliaie in Galle Mayo,
opposite the English Church, with another entrance by Pi»eo Julio,
The offices are open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. All Ibreign yessels awivkig
from beyond the seas have to send their Bill of Health before being alloln^d
to commnnicate with the shore : the captains have also to declare on arrival
what cargo they bring, to whom consigned, date of departure fttwn home
and arrival here ; if they bring passengers a list of same must be entered in
the Capitania books, and any letters are handed over to the branch Po6t-
office in this building. If the vessel be Argentine, or belonging to A flag
that has no Consul here, all her papers must be lodged at the Capitania.
The captains have also to report exactly on the condition of their vessels.
Signal flags are used to communicate with the pontoon Castelli in the outer
roads, ^e Capitania h^s a dungeon for refractory sailors : a guard is
always mounted on the Paseo Julio entrance. Colonel Bustlllos has a staff
of twelve officials and thirty-six sailors, with three state barges : he has
redently received jurisdiction over all the Gapitanias of the Republic. The
bvaiieh Po9t*offi<^e receives letters tor- Montevideo, &c., up to half wi h6ur
1>efore sailing of steamer. For any matters befbre or dfter hours, apply at
the Ayudantia, next the guard-house at the Paseo Julio. No one is allowed
to gaUdp by the Capitania.
MWICIPALITT, JLAW OOimtS.
The Municipalifyy or Corporation, holds its meetings in a saloon over the
Poiioia: its charter dates from October f8&4, and it is coitipeded of a
Presidenti thirteen members, and twenty^^our «6uplentes!)^ each parish
furnishes a fliember, and the (csupleut^sw aire elected to take his place in
case of sickness or absence. The Mihister of Interior is an ex-bfficio
president, but never attend^, the Pik)vincial Govei*nment each year
naming the Vice-rPresident from among the members. There are two
secretaries, eighteen clerks, and three servants. The revenue exceeds
$12,000,000 per annum, and is spent in this manner: hospital and lunatic
asylum, $2,000,«00; serenes, &c., $2,000,000; schools, $1,000,000;
scavenger carts, $1,000,000; clerks and fireworks, $1,000,000; paving,
&c., $5,000,000. The items of income are— public lottery, $4,000,000 ;
aereno tax, $2,000,000 ; market stalls, $ 1 ,000,000 ; mataderos, $ 1 ,000,000 ;
CP91T8 W hkW. 27
license^ 4^.^ $4,9009)000. foreiifAefs ape: son^mes jdleptedto serre 6n
the Board, but they gjeQertUj nssig^. Tbe street Ughtiag is done bythe
Gas Company; there are 1,722 lamps, for ii?hicb the coAipany levies
payment at eacji house. In the goburbs there are 1 ,483 oil lamps,
beloi^ging to the BtunicjipaUty. The neglected state of the city is
unsusceptible of exaggeration, ai)id each succeeding- Board throws all the
blame on the preceding ;one. The Corporation of 1868 was expelled by
an indignation meeting of the citii^ens, who formed a Committee of Pablic
Health in its room ; but the Board ws^ reinstated byGoTcmment shortly
afterwards. A better election of niembfers is hoped for the year 1869.
The Archbishop^ 8, Palace is a handsome two story edifice, next the
Cathedral : the reception hall, in the upper story, is a magnificent apart-
ment, with a bust of Pope Pius IX,. and some pictures. The building was
completed in April 1862, since whien the Archbishq?' resides here, along
with his secretary, chaplain, and three other clergymen.
Courts of Law. — There are the ordinary Courts of Primera Instanciain
the Cabildo, where civil an^ criminal causeis jkre tried: attached to these .
Courts are the ojBicps of the escribanos or notaries, lor lall judicial proceed-
ings, trapsfer of property, &c.„: mpft of the eacribi^fi^ diate ba«k many
years, and have records from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries,
being used as registry offices in all matters of assignment, mortgage, &c.
The Tribunal of Conmerce is next to the Topograi^hic Department, in Calle
Peru; its pFo<^ediags are guided. by the «f2odigp0e(;<H](feQrcio» framed for
Buenos Ayres. T^e Superior Xribuni^l of Jijstice i^ cpmpQ8ed4>f ten judges,
and sits in the Cabildo> to hear i^ipeals from V^ or4iwry civil, criminal,
and commercial Courts : it has i^lmediate jurisdiptJKm over the J^ustioes of
Peace in the camp, ^nd has a, [fiscal or A^oripieyH^neral, twQ. repoKtei!S,
a)iotary , and other ^mj^loyees. Each of tlji*^ Judgesr Ms a sdary of $6,000 a
month, p very Saturday they visit the priscas, to se^ the pi^opers audi how
their cases s^nd; but the proceedings of this qnd the other Gourts^arte so
tedious that a reform is miuch ca^^ for. The (cflode of the Indiea,^ and
other obsolete SpjOfiigh statutes, yr ere hitherto the so^e syste** of pnoeedui:^ ;
hut sonie new cades have been compiled and wiU shortly he adopted* . Jn the
camp there are three tribunals ; one at San Nicolas, i|orth ; oneatltfejrcedes,^
west; and one, at Dolores, south: these are oftQU badly attended to, as
thQre are few lawyjei;s in teiyn willing to take such responsibility for a poor
remuneration. The High Court of. Justice is one of the supreme powers of
the State, viz. : th^ Executive, Legjislative, and Judicial, and the Govern-
n^ent cannot interfere in its af&irs, which secvires t^ the tribunal perf^tj
liberty of action. The public never attend the hearing of lawsuit^, an^^^
' 28 PUBLIC mSFARTIieifTS.
fonncrly the' proceedings -were altogetlier secret: by decree of November
12, 1868, President Sarmiento has ordered the Fiscal to publish all suits in
one of the daily papers. There is no trial by jury, unless in cases of press
prosecution for sedition or libel. Witnesses usually give their depositions
in writing, instead of orally, The President of the High Court has juris-
diction in cases of Protestants seeking a marriage license. The Supreme
Federal Court adjoins the Provincial Government-house, in Calle Bolivar :
it was established in 1863, and consists of five Judges. All matters in
which foreigners are concerned, either against the Government or private
parties, or questions between any of the Federal province^, are finally
decided by this Court, to which, also, there is appeal from all other
tribuoals.
Academy of Jurisprudence^ founded January 16th 1815, by Manuel A.
Castro. The institute is under the direction of the High Court of Justice,
and meets twice a vreek at the University, where lectures and imaginary
lawsuits take place. The sthdents must have already taken their degree
as Doctor of Laws, and cannot practise at their profession till after two
years attendance at the Academy. The session is ftom March to November.
The average number of students Is thirty-five. There are 120 advocates
. in Boenos Ayres.
, , MAED OF HEALTH, J.0TTEHY, CTTY VftlSOMS.
i^aJcfdhf bf'Medicirky founded in 1852, by Drs. Fernandez, lAbnlesdeoca,
. Atvaiiez, Albfcrellos,' Garcia, Mufllz, Cuenca, Gomez, and Ortiz Velez. . The
Aboard at present consists df eight j^dfessors, eight substitutes, and a
secretary, imd rfeWdes at 53 Calle 'Gotrientes: the studies comprise —
clinical surgery, o|)erations,'midwifei^, diseases of *women and children,
inaferta medica, thel*apeutics, pbarinsicology, hygiene, nosography,pathology,
anatomy, medical jurisprudence, physiology, &c.' The term of studies Is
for six years, tbe only degree given being that of M.D. I^oreign pr^acti-
I tioners, although having diplomas from European universities, are not
* allK>wed to practise without previous examination of the Faculty of
Medicine, and in this their chief difficulty will be the Spanish language.
The academical year begins on 1st March ; the examinations commence on
December 1st, after which there is vacation. The school of medicine is
opposite San Telmo church, and was bnilt in 1858 out of the proceeds of
fines levied flxmi foreign physicians, apothecaries, midwives, and bleeders.
There are two large lecture rooms, a library, a school of pharmacy and
natural history, and a small museum; besides the ffrand(fedl^or the
conferringof degrees. ^'^' ' '^^ ^^ b
.fitflGBAIfX HOMB. 29
Vaccination and Board of BeaUhj situa,tei]6Xt the Proyincial Chambers in
Calle Peru. The first i^accinator in Baenos Ayres livas the Rev. Saturnino
Segurolai ^vA in 1821 Rivadavi&r established the departtoent, subject to
certpdn mupicipa), regulations. The annual number of vaccinations in
town at the ((yacuna)^ oiBces is about 2,000. Besid^ the head ofice in
Calle P^rd, there are branches in Calles Defensa, Santa F^^ and Santiago
delEstero; offices hourai 12 ta2in Winter, 5. to 7 in summer. The Board
of Health was cres^ted in 1852, and is supposed to watch over th6 public
health, inspect markets and pHvate houses, &c. : this is merely imaginary,
and the Board has no real existence . '>
Emigrants^ Borne ^ situate No. 8 Calle Corrientes, under the direction of
Mr. Van Bartels, provides board and lodging, gratis for distressed immi-
grants, until they find employment. It is supported parlly by the National
Government and partly by subscription, but not more than 5 per cent, of
immigrants seek its refuge. The expense of the institution amounts to
about £1 ^00 per annum. , The first immigration committee was established
in this city in 1824.
Lottery of the uBenefieencia^yy situate at 168 Calle Bolivar, was established
in its present form in 1852, but the institution existed many years before as
a source of public revenue. It produces at present about $5,000,000 n^
per aniium, in weekly and monthly lotteries : the weekly has* a prize of
$120,000, the monthly $300,000, the prizes being publicly drawn and then
publisbed. Of the total receipt^ 75 per cent, is given in prizes, 10 pet
cent.- goes in expenses, and the rest (15 per cent.) is devoted to the
charitable institutions under care of the Municipality.
Public Lands Office^ in the Government-house, Calle Moreno, established
in 1859, open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Information may be obtained
for soliciting land «in enfiteusis,)) renting Government lands^ or buying
same.
Cify Prisons.— There are three : that under the Cabildo is the principal,
and is guarded by a company of soldiers expressly raised by the Provincial
Government ; formerly the National Guards of the city had. to perform this
irksome service. The prisoners are allowed to see their friends on Sundays
and Thursdays. The Debtors' prison is in Calle Moreno, behind San
Francisco church J persons guilty of misdemeanors are also confined bere ;
visiting days as above. There is another prison ^called the Peniteneiarid
near S|in Telmo ; but a proper jail is much needed, the escape of prisoners ^
being at presejiit a frequent occurrence. Digitized by ^IC
30 PUBLIC DKPimtiifeifri.
The Mutewn 0/ Buenos Ayra is, perhaps^ the richest ift the world in ante-
dilaviaa fossU remains^ and in late years it has been carefully managed hy
the di^tingtusbed German s^vcM^ Professor Burmeister. It id situate in
Calle P$ru» corner of Galle Potosi, opposite the Old Mat^ket. BivadaTia
was the founder of the Musenm (December SI, 1823), and it first occupied
the upper story of Santa Domingo monastery. During the rule of Rosas it
was much neglected,, the qnly valuable colleclion being 736 mineral
specimens brought from France. In 1 854 the Society of Natiiral History of
the Plate was formed, and donations quickly poured in from all quarters.
M: Brarard (afterwards lost in the earthquake of Mendoza) lent good
assistance; and in February 1862, President Mitre, through the Prussian
Minister, Baron von Gulich, induced Dr. Burmeister to give up the museum
of Halle and come out to take charge of .that of our city. Under tije
present director it has undergone complete reform, and a saloon forty yards
long, with three other apartments, is appropriated for the institution. In
classifying the objects of exhibition. Dr. Burmeister divides therii under '
three heada: artistic, historical add scientific. There is no work of
art of any^merit, but only some drawings or copies of pictures executed by
students sent tb Florence and Rome at the expense of the National
Govemo^n^; also a few portraits of distinguished individuals, which
sefve for curipsitii^s^ In the historic section arch^-three Egyptian mammies
sup()pse(l to be about 4^000 years old, some Peruvian vases prior to the
Spanish conquest, with gold and silver idold dnd some mummies^: these
Indian sepulchres are also found in San Juan, Bioja^ and Catamarca, ahd
Senor Lozana has presented two Peruvian mun^mies to the museum. The
collection of coins numbers 415 from the time of Pompey to. Antoninus
Pius ? it was purchased in France for £240 sterling. There are twenty-:
two enamelled pictures of the conquest of Mexico ; supposed artist Miguel
Gonzales ; it was presented by Mr. Mackinlay. The standard of Juan de
Garay used at the foUddiition of Boenos Ayres, with two old swords 0^ that
date. Amoqg modisrn relics is the writing desk of Rivadavia and his
coIBn, GpiUeral Lavalle^^ sword^ and the omadiental wheel^barrdw of the
Southern rail i^y ii^Wgt^i^tion ; also an infernal marine used toattetnpt
thQ assassination ^of Bo9as« The most valuable collbction is that of natural
science^ comprising lootogical specimens of the present time and ant^^
diluvian fossilspf animals no longer [known on earth. H. Bravard counts
fifty specimens of the latter found in Buenos Ayres. We have a complete
((Megatherium^)! presented by Dr. Mufliz, the hind>«p«rt ofa «Hylodon*
igi ize y ^
mE mjusoH: 31:
ro)>ii9tus.*|ottii4 hjf Dr. Bumiieifltfariie^r the Bio Saladd, aad three kinds oC
«]t^lo4Mteii,» b^44e0 % «SoeUdothBriii»i» ; a complete «Gl;^todoai»
presented by Don David Lanata, the head of a ccToxjdon,]! and tile fossil-
teeth; of ait ftiitendiluxiau: horse from the Sidado. The <(aiammiferi»
coinprise siKty-f^ight JLinds in 119 specimens, of whidi forty belong, to the
Sap ||Iartin.C0lleotion recently purcha^d tin France: the most important is
the- «Pi<{hi-ciego» or .ccGhafiiypboras retusus.)) There are 1,500 i>ird
sp^cimen^ of 500 different kinds ; one half from the San Martin collection^
the rest from Europe, Brazil, and the provinces. The fish aind' amphibious
specimens are of little valuer The insects comprise a splendid variety of
Brazilian butterfli^, ^bich cannot however be exposed totiie light, but are
kepf in a dark room. In Botany vre have samfdes of the beautiful vroods
of Pi^F^i^y, and an «herbarinm,» of European plants, imported from
FraoQi;. ' There.is % valuable case ol minerals from jChile, presented by the
late Mr, Harratt ; a hqit of aeologieal strata perforated in Messrs.
Sordeaux's artesian well of Barracas ; a fossil willow trunk presented by
Seftor Pedriel. In the portico of the Museum may be seen an extraor-
dinary wooden anchor, mounted with lead : th|s belonged to the Vermejo
expedition of Mr. Cheney Hickman, who descended that river in 1852, but
died of dy^ente^y on tbfc .voyage atad was buriedjon thfe Gran Ghapo shore«
There ;arQ al^o.sundry fragment^ Of a fossil whale, which reminds us that
such remains have been found as for inland as Parana city, 500 tniles from
the 9c^p^.at a depth of sixty f^t in thebarraui^a. or bluff. Dr^ Bimneister
has pufajUshed a ^ientiiic dissertation oa Pdsontblogyf with> special
ref^ren^ to the ante^diluvian treasures of Buenos Ayres, and coiiipUmen*
tary alliuisioiss to the English geologists l^y ell, Darwen, Owen, (and othcw ;
also aq essay qn «Patagonian Macraucbenia,» illustrated with foiir
handsome designs by the ill-fated Bravard. Respecting the Picaflor, or
humnMng-bird^ he giVesiel6v«n cUssesas inhabitsints of the River Plate and
Parag^Ay^ although Azara reduces the numberto six. He haa also an essay
on «Glyptodoiites^»,tbe most abundant fossils found in the counlry. Dr.
Burmeister is member of twetity-*six difforent literary societies, 'including
some of the hijjhest in Great Britain and North America, ValMble
acqiUsitions are made fiiom time to time, whenever the Goirenuttent^ can
supply Dr. Burm^ister iHth funds for the purpose. Itt June 1867 a
com[dete fossil monster called <«Glyptodon TirfierculatuS)^ w^ found near
Villa Mercedes aiid purchased for $15,000. About thi same time wa»
bought a collection of eighty^ef en stuffed birds and animals from M.
Chanalet, for the sum of $35,000n^fe. The' total oolledion in the Museum
may besummed up thus: 20ologtieal specimens 1,620, samples of mine^
32. PUBLIC BSPAftTMEirrS.
ralogy 1^30^ toims 2^120, objected of afitiqmty and ftne arts 89. The
Mosedni is open, free of charge, <m all Sundays and holidays between the
hours of 10 and 2.
The Universify of Buerios Ayret adjoins the Museum, also forming part of
the blotk originally built by the Jesuits. It was founded on August 9th,
1821, by Governor Rodriguez, ^md his Minister, Rivadayla. The solemn
ifiangtratiOn took place on the i 2th of same month in the GoUege^church,
Dr. Antonio Suarez being sworn in as first Rector. The premises were used
as a barrack until very recently. It is at present under the direction of
Dr. Juan Maria Gutierrez, a distinguished scholar, and the staff of
professors is equally respectable. The studies embrace the usual classic
and scientific courses, besides modem languages, and degrees are given in
theology, law, and medicine. There is a library for the students,
comptising over 2,000 woiiLS, presented by the rector and other- donors.
A complete chemical apparatus, with electric battery, &c. has been
recently brought out from Italy.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS.
The Cofejffo JVadoftai, formerly the Jesuit College, has spacious premises
adjoining the Church of San Ignacio. Up to 1863 it was used as an
f Ecclesiastical Seminary, under the direction of Rev. Dr. Aguero and Canon
' Aneitos, and contained ninety students. General Mitre's Government
converted it Into a Head Grajnmar School for £11 the Argentine provin(;es,
confiding its management to Messrs. Jaccpes and Cosson : each province is
allowed to send a certain number of boys for education, with board and
lodging gratis; The sphere of studies ia analogous to that of the
University. .
There are two city Model Schools: that called Catedral al Norte,
in Calle JRecohquista, was begun in May 1859 by pubUc subscription, and
solenmly inaugurated by the Governor of Buenos Ayres, President Derqui,
and General Urqiiiza, on May 2fiith, I860) the children of the schools
assistii^ to the number of 8,000. The building is tasteful and dommodious ;
the school*rooms are spacious, and well furnished with maps and books.
Besides t^e ordinal^ classes, there is one of pupiUteachers in training as
municipal sehoolrmasters. The branches of education are, science,
modern languages, drawing, music, &c. The Model School of Catedral al
Sur, was the first in these countries, having been originated by Don
Domingo Sarmieato, then Director of Schools, and inaugurated on April
28thy t8&8. The fiyrst beard of Directors was composed of Messrs. Roque
CITY SCHOOLS. 33
Perez, Elizalde, Gasares, Garcia, Toledo, Iraola, Billinghurst, Qastro, and
Pereyra: the funds were mostly raised by subscription. The premises
adjoin the Provincial Government-house at the comer of Moreno and Perd,
having been ceded by the Legislature for this expi;es8 purpose : there are
three large halls and others smaller, capable of accommodating 300 pupils.
Mor6 than 1 ,000 youths have been educated here in the last eleven years,
and a large proportion of these afterwards passed through the University.
The studies include — Latin, English, French, German, mathematics,
history, geography, drawing, music, and gymnastics. At first there was
no enlarge for pupils, the institute being supported by voluntary
subscription, but it became necessary to alter this, and the foUowmg^ale
of fees now rules — boarders, $500; externs, $100; extems with
breakfast, $150 per month. The Municipality maintains thirtyfree
schools, for boys and girls, in the various city parishes and suburbs, which
are attended by about 2,000 children of all ranks in society. The
masters receive a salary of, $2,000 a month, assistants $1,000, and
mistresses $1,300 (besides which the children's parents usually give them
something). The expenditure entailed by these schools is set down at.
^834,000 per annum. The Department of Schools was established in 1852,
under the direction of Dr. Barros Pazos, then rector of the University : in
1855 it was entrusted to Don Domingo Sarmiento, who established in five
jears as many as seventy public schools. There aire at present 142
municipal and state schools in the city and province of Buenos Ayres, at
which 8,000 children are educated. There are also 125 private schools ia
the cSty ; the best of these are English, at which the dsual fees are, for boarders
$500, externs $100 a month. The Sociedad de Benefidencia^ composed if
charitable ladies, has charge of seventeen free schools for girls in the city,
and forty-five in the country districts. The Diocesan Seminary, directed
by the Rev. Ganoil Brid, is situate in Galle Victoria, close to the English
cemetery. The Jesuit College in Calle Parque, comar of Callao, is a large
building with grourids covering the whole <(cuadra.j> There is another
lay college at the Balvanera, directed by Freinch priests who are called
Padres Bayoneses. Besides the day schools in connection with the
English, Scotch, American, and German churches, there are boarding-
schools attached to the Irish convent, Calle Rio Bamba, and the French
convent, Calle Ccchabamba ; also a day school kept by French nuns in
Calle Rivadavia.
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34 CHURCHES AND INSTITUTIONS*
OHAP. lY.
CHURCHES AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
CHURCHES.
The city is divided into eleven parishes, and contains some fine churches.
Besides the Cathedral, there are fifteen churches, six chapels of ease, and
&ur Protestant churches.
The Cathedral is situate in Plaza Victoria, with a massive colonnade and
fine front. Its dimensions are spacious, rendering it one of the grandest
temples in this continent. . Don Juan de Garaj, in 1550, first marked out
the site, and there is a tradition that the first bricks made in the country
were devoted to this church. The Jesuits commenced a larger structure
in 1621, but it fell in A.D. 1752, and was rebuilt bj the architect Rocha, in
the form that now exists, exceptijig the facade. In 1822 SeQor Catellin
was entrusted with the completion of the work, but this was paralysed
during forty yeats of civil war, being only finished in 1862. The interior
is imposing, the nave presenting a brilliant spectacle on feast days, when
crowded with a congregation numbering some thousands, and the roof
hung with flags taken in the wars against Spain and Brazil. The high altar
stands nearly under the dome, which, with the cupola, rises to a height of
130 feet. There are twelve chapels in the aisles, possessing little in the
way of fine arts. A proper organ is much wanted, and the choir isinferion
The Archbishop's throne is on tlie right of the high altar ; the seats for tie^
canons are of carved wood. The sacristy and baptistery are beyond the
CITY CHURCHES. 35
right transept, and have a few paintings ; one was a picture of merit and an
artist took it away, leaving the copy in its stead. This side of the church
communicates with the episcopal palace. The Archbishop officiates on all
great feasts: the last Mass on Sundays and holidays is at 1p.m. On the
left side, are the halls for use of the Chapter, and here are the portraits
of all the prelates from Dr. Garranza down to Bishop Medrano, eighteen in
number. Four were natives of Buenos Ayres (including the brothers
Arregui), five never toolt possession of the sea, and six were removed or
died abroad. On May 12th, 1622, Fray Pedro de Garranza, Bishop of La
Plata and Apostolic commissioner, raised this church to the rank of cathedral,
and was its first prelate. In 1866 the see was created an archbishopric,
under Dr. Mariano Escalada. The chapter^ consists of nine canons and four
honorary canons^ besides ten chaplains, and a dozen choristers and
sacristans.
The Mercedy at the corner of Galles Gangallo and Beconquista, was
built in 1768, and had formerly a Qonvent of nuns attached. The convent
is now in charge of the Sociedad de Beneficeucia, wiio use it as an
orphanage: an annual bazaar is held 'for its support, the articles .of needle-
work being admirable. The church tower is used as a city observatory.
San IgnaciOy corner of Bolivar and Potosi, is usually called the Gollege
church, because formerly belonging to the Jesuits, whose college was
alongside. Although the Jesuit order was expelled in 1767, they are still
allowed to keep schools in Buenos Ayres ; but their coljiege has long been
expropriated by the State, and is now a secular school, with a good staff of
professors. The exterior of the church is very fine, with two lofty turrets :
the interior is rather sombre.
San FranciscOj corner of Potosi and Defensa, belongs to the Franciscan
monastery, and is remarkable for richness of decoration. The first mention
of Franciscans in this city is about the year 1594, and it seems their convent
was established in 1601. In the suppression of religious orders, in 1822,
this community escaped ; but the convents of the same order at the Recoleta
and San Pedro were suppressed. The community now consists of thirty
mendicant iriars. The sacristy possesses some curious old pictures. The
cloisters and corridors are finely vaulted.
San Roque is a chapel of ease, adjoining San Francisco, and set apart for
the especial use of Irish residents. Ganon Fahy, or another of the Irish
clergy, celebrates Mass, and preaches in English, every Sunday at II a.m.
Santo Domingo, corner of Defensa and Belgrano, has a large nave, with
aisles : the high altar and side chapels are richly gilt. The Dominican
convent has a prior and twenty mendicant friars. It was established in
36 CITY CHURCHES.
1591, and suppressed in 1822; but, in 1835, Fray Inchaurregui received
permission from Government to re-establish the order. This churi^h
preserves rare and valuable trophies, vvhich are hung from the dome on
certain feast days : they consist of fbur English flags taken from
Whitelocke's army in 1807 — an artillery, a royal marine, and two infiintry
flags. In one of the belfry towers are seen twenty-four cannon shot,
thrown by the English fleet ft'om the roadstead, on the same occasion.
Some of the Dominicans are very able preachers : this church is also
remarkable for the splendor of its ceremonials and processions.
Sent TelmOj Calles Defensa and Coraercio, dedicated to the patrOn of
sailors, is a small church on a high point overlooking the roadstead : a new
belfry was erected last year. Adjacent to the church are the Men's
Hospital and the Residencia Lunatic Asylum. The neighborhood, during
the time of Rosas, was known as «Barrio del Alto,)) and bore a bad name.
The ConcepcioTtj adjoining Plaza Independeneia, is a new church, from
designs by Padre Marin. It remained unfinished for some years owing to
the roof having fallen in, when some workmen were killed, in 1866.
Santa Catalina^ in Calle Brazil, is a chapel of ease, built in 1860, in
pursuhnce of a pious testament, with schools attached.
San Juan, Calles Potosi and Piedras, is attached to a convent of Capuchin
nuus : the order was established hiere in 1749, by five nuns who came from
Chile ; the convent was first situate close to the church of San Nicolas,
but afterwards removed to the present spacious premises. The order was
exceptied in the decriee of suppression, in 1822, and has now thirty-six
nuns, who live by alms and a small pension from Government. There are,
however, some ladies of fortune among the community. The convent has
a large garden, covering almost the entire block, in a very valuable
situation. The church is attended by French priests.
Our Ladf/ of Monserrat, adjoining the Plaza of the same name, is a
handsome new church. The parish is reputed very rich, and the interior
of the edifice is elegant and tasteful.
Las Salinas is the name of a chapel situate in Calles \ietoria and Sarandi,
attached to the Archbishop's college: the latter is under the direction of
Canon Brid, andastaff of professors, includingthe Rev. Mr. Dillon. Another
chapel is in construction in General Guido's quinta, Calle Potosi, by the
Italian residents.
San Miguel, Calles Suipacha and Piedad, stands in the highest part of the
city, and an extensive view is obtained from the belfry. There is a statue
of Saint Michael over the entrance. An orphanage was at first attached t^
this church, and the Jesuit printing-press, from Cordova, was devoted to
THE IRISH COIfVENT, 37
its support. The orphanage is now attached to the Merced. Sati
Miguel was founded in 1727 by Don Juan Alonzo Gonsalez, during the
prevalence of a great plague in which the corpsea were remored for
interment by being tied to the horses' tails. Gonsalez was a native of
Cadiz, and after his wife's death became a priest, bringing the first convent
of Catalinas nuns from Tucuman to settle in this city. His son succeeded
him as director of the Institute of Charity of San Miguel, which was,
suppressed in 1822.: the second Gonsalez died in 1801, and there is a
tasteful marble slab to his memory on the right of the altar.
San Nicolas de Bari^ Calles Corrientes and Artes, is thQ favorite church
of Italians, but has nothing of artistic merit calling for notice. The belfry
has a public (jlock.
La Piedad is a small parish-church at tl\e corner of Calles Piedad and
Parana. In the neighbourhood is a remarkable pine-tree, lOQ feet high.
La Balvanera is a fine edifice, near th^ Plaza Once de Setiembre, with a
college attached, under the charge of some French clergymen.
JEl SqcQrro^ neat the Plaza Retire^ is sni^U and unpretending. Close to it
is a garden that was formerly the British cemetery, until 1842, when Mr.
Ha?ratt purchased the present site in Calle Victoria.
La,s Ifotyasj corner of Temple and San l!h(artin,.is a small church of some
aiMJkquity, attached to the convent of Dominican nuns, called Catalinas,
whose order is very strict. The convent was founded in 1744 and was
excepted from the suppression of 1822. There are forty nuns, each of
whotnat entering hfings a small dowry; for, the rest they depend on
public charity: their garden occupies the whole block. The military of
the Betiro attend Ka^ here on Sundays.
The IrWi Convent of Si$kf$ of. Jfercy is sitqj^e at the corner of Calles Rio
Bamba and Tucuman ; it has ^a chapel, schOioU, and ho3pital, under the
patronage of St. Joseph. The community has its origin from Baggot Street
Convent, Dublin. The first sisters were brought out by Father Fahy, in
February 1856, under the superioress. Mother Mary Evangelist Fitzp^trick.
They were first established in Calle Gai^allo, till, in 1861, their country-
men built for them the present el^ant strm^ture. The community consists
of about twenty sisters, of wh(«n oue-half are daughters of Irish sheep-
faVmers here resident. They make the tliree usual vows of poverty,
chastity, and obedftnce, and a fourth for the service of the poor and sick*
Their principal task, however, is the educiation of seventy boarders, the
daughters of Irish estancieros, who pay £30^ a year pension ; and the.
gratuitous instruction of 200 poor nc^tive children of the neighborhood.
They also feed, clothe, and instruct a limited number of orphans. The
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38 PROTESTAUT GBURGH£S.
boarders are taught English, French, Spanish, music, and needlework : no
children are admitted under five, or over fifteen, years of age ; they wear
a uniform, and are allowed to see their friends on Sundays and holidays,
between the hours of 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. The halls, play ground, &c., are
spacious, and the chapel is very neat. The convent covers an area of two
acres, or half a cuadra, and the northern wing consists of a hospital for
sick and distressed Irish ^ The sisters also visit the sick of the neighbor-
hood. They receive no subsidy from the State, each of the nuns having
her own dowry on entering.** The rules of the order were sanctioned by
Gregory XVI., in 1841, and the Sisters of Mercy have now numerous
establishments in Ireland, United States, and Australia.
The Rccohta^ dedicated to Our Lady of Pilar, is attached to the city
cemetery, about two miles from Plaza Victoria. The church and convent
were built by the Franciscans in 1720, at an outlay of £4,000 sterling.
There is a tradition that the site had been sold for a suit of clothes. The
convent was suppressed in 1822, and in 1858 the building was taken for a
Poor Asylum.
There are four Protestant churches ; the English, Scotch, American, and
German.
The English Churchy near the corner of Galles Mayo and Guyo, is a hand-
some and commodious structure, capable of accommodating about 700
persons. The treaty of 1 825 guaranteed Protestants the fullest religious
liberty, and the Argentine Government had the generosity to cede this site
gratis for an. English church, and for the last forty years a chaplain has
been attached at the expense of the British Government. Previous to that
date (1827) the Protestants assembled for Divine service in a private room,
where the ForeignClub now stands. THe present chaplain is the Rev. J.
Chubb Ford, a graduate of one of the English universities. Divine service
is held every Sunday at A 1 a.m., and in the evening. Two pews, marked
A and B, are set apart for ship captains. The new organ presented by Mr,
Lumb is a splendid instrument, and cost £500. Attached to the church
are the English parochial schools, attended by about 100 children of both
sexes, and under the charge of Professor Ryan.
The Scotch Church is in Calle Piedras, near Calle Rivadavia, and of the
same simple architecture as usually characterises Presbyterian houses of
prayer. It was built in 1838, at a cost of £7,000, and has seats for 300
persons. The first Scotch colony came to Buenos Ayres^in 1827 with the
Messrs. Robertson, and their countrymen now number over 2,000 in the
camp and town. There are two Scotch chapels, at San Vicente and
Chascomus, with resident clergymen, and the British Government allows
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' THE BEGOLETA CEMETERY. 39
^ subsidy for their maintenance. The first chaplain was the late Rev. W.
* Brown, D.D., Vhose successor is Rev. James Smith, deservedly popular
among men of all persuasions. Divine service every Sunday at U a.m.
and 7 p.m. : there is a fine choir. The Scotch school was founded in 18i2^
«nd has been successively managed by Mi*. Ray, Rev. Dr. Brown, Rev. J.
Smith, Mr. Ramsay, and Mr. Augustus Powell : the last-named gentleman
has directed it already thirteen years, on the Glasgow normal training
system: the average attendance is sixty pupils,' and the curriculum
includes English, French, Spanish, Latin, &c. • Tl;ie school-room is spacious,
and sometimes used for lectures.
The American, or Methodist Church, is in Calle Cangallo, opposite the Hotel
da Provence ; it holds about 300 persons, but the congregation intends
providing a better chapel. The actual incumbent is Rev. Mr. Goodfellow,
of the American Missionary Society, who has initiated a system of
children's lectures on moral training. There is a Sunday school, the
children of which have a grand annual f^te. Several tracts on religious
subjects are distributed by the curate. Divine service on Sundays 1 1 a.m. ;
also in the afternoon.
The Germany or Lutheran Church, is in Calle Esmeralda, between Piedad
and Cangallo. It has a pretty Gothic facade and porch, and holds about 300
persons ; it was built in 1847 by the German residents, and is almost too
small for the present congregation. The chaplain is the Rev. Mr. Gehrke^
who has also charge of the schools attached. Divine service at 1 1 a.m.
and 7 p.m. on Sundays. The choir is the best in the city. The architect
was the late Mr. Taylor.
CEMETERIES.
The Recoleta Cemetery is much too small, covering only ten acres ; here
the inhabitants of the city have been interred for three centuries. Some
of the tombs are grand and costly, but the place is so crowded that they
appear to no advantage. The place is very much neglected, and th6
practise of disinterring remains after a certain number of years is a
violation of the most hallowed associations. Rich persons by paying fifty
years purchase are guaranteed against removal. Poor people can buy
graves for five years, at prices varying from $10 to $100m^, according to
locality. The mausoleum of Bernardino Rivadavia, the illustrious
statesman of 1828, is the finest, and stands in the central avenue.
Opposite to it is a monument which will call the special attention of
Englishmen, as it marks the resting-place of a valiant countryman, the
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40 CITY CEMETERIES.
famous Admiral Brown. On a flight of marble steps, covering tl^e vault
vrherein are de|K)sited the remains of th^ gallant admiral and his wife,
rises the base of the structure, the principal portion of which measures:
4ft. by 5ft. and the upper 3ift, by SJft. The main shaft is 1 2ftrhigh, witt
a Corinthian capital bearing a naval trophy of gilt bronze 5ft. high : total
height from the ground, 28ft. 6in. Upon the base are well executed
icrelievos)) oif the, following naval engagements: — 11th June, 30th June,
Juncal and Emperatriz ; also the arms of the Bepublic, initially of the
deceased, and a graceful epitaph bosdered with wreaths of shamrocks. A
band encircles the column, upon whiph is the inscription (cGuiUermo Brown. »
Springing from the leaves of the capital is the trident, and surmounting all
a trophy of «rostra.» The total cost was $40,000, about £300, and the
site^was giveuj by Government. The whole of the woi:k was executed in
Buenos Ayres, from designs by P. Beare, C.E. : the castings weighed oter
five tons-and wer^ made in the establishment of F. GaruUa. The epitaph^
translated from th^ Spanisji, is as follows :—
WILLIAM BBOWN,
BOpff OW Tm; 22HD JUNE, 1777, JlT.FOXFORD, county MA.YO, lEELiLlU)^
OW BElTiSQ ORiaUf, WT ARGERTIIfB BT HIS SERVICES.
He commanded in chief Oie first fleet in the War of Independence^
bringing glory and triumph to our flag^ A.D. 1814, destroying
the Spanish navies at Martin Garcia and Montevideo.
Sweeping Uie Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from 1815 to 1818,
The ports ofCallao and Guayaquil witnessed his prowess under the
Argentine banner^ on January 20, and February 1, 1816.
The mn that shone on February 9, June 1 1, and July 29, 1826,
in the waters of La Plata ^ and, on February 9, 1827, in the
River^ Urug^ay^ beheld ike vessels of the RejfubMc confided to Admiral Brown
crowned with victory in sv^porti^g the Independence of 0^ Sister Statc^
Hrdifid like a true Christian^ on the night of May 3, 1857, Jt^rround^:
by his family J overshadowed by his great name^ and at ffie ripe
age of eighty years, having consecrated his life to naval glory.
His Widow dedicates this Monument to his memory^
and asks frofi all brave, and grateful men a
Remembrance and a Prayer.
R. I. P.
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THE euglish cemetery. 41
The monuments of the Typographic Society and the Spanish Charitable
Association are handsome edifices. Not for hence is a stone with the
inscription «Seflor Alvarez, assassinated by bis friends !» Besides the
natives there are numerous Irish and French buried in the Recoleta.
On the north side, against the convent vrall, is a marble slab to the memory
of the first Irish priest who came to Buenos Ayres, some forty years ago.
Near the entrance-gate are the monuments of Colonel Braiidsen, who fell
in the battle of Ituzaingo, A.D. 1827, and Captain Meyer, killed in the
civil war of 1864. Besides this ^jemetery another has been recently
opened in the south end, near the Convalecencia.
The English Cemetery — ^About the year 1821 4;he English residents in this
city obtained from the Government a general charter in due form for the
establishment of a Protestant Cemetery. vA short time afterwards a small
plot of ground was purchased near the Sooorro Church, which for several
years was used as their burial«>gronnd ; its. dimensions were, however,
soon fouhd insufficient, and in the year 183'2 Mr. John Harratt purchased
the present site, and transferred the ownership to the British community of
Bdenos Ayres. It is situate at the comer of Calles Victoria and Pasco,
about a mile and a quarter from Plaza Victoria, covering a (cmanzana)) of
150 yards square, nicely planted and walled in. There is a neat
mortuary chapel, in the eentre^ and the tombs are of varied taste and
nationalities, incloding all classes of Protestants. The Germans have a
quarter to themselves, and English, Scotch, and Americans occupy the
rest. Th^e are some very sad mementos, such as naval officers
acoidentally dcovMed in port, and persons killed in civil commotions. The
visitor, may pause at the graye of Mr. Priestly who was shot at his own
door in a street-riot, or at those of Mr. Mason and General Asboth, late
Adtericaa Ministers ftir iUie United States. There is a touching record in
a tablet, near theeatranee, to the ^memory ^t Mi. Taggart,'an American
resident, who was drowned in rescuiiig some ladies from drowning in
the Lujan river. No coffin is allowed to be laid al less than eight
feet from the snrfiu^e, and the great majority of the coffins are lined
with lead. Nevertheless there is aja agitation to close up the cgmetery and
obMge the Protestant residents to take a new site further out ox town. A
municipal decree has been passed to this effect.
HOSPITALS.
Few citi^ are better snpplied than ours with institutions for the relief
of the sick. The Municipality maintains two hospitals, for men md women,
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42 CITY HOSPITALS. •
irrespective of creed or nationality. There arc also the English , French,
Italian and Iri^h hospitals, and the Sanitary Institute : this last is one of
the finest establishments in South America.
The Men^s Hospital was founded by Don Juan de Gatjaj under the
patronage of St. Martin, a block of ground being marked out for the
purpose in the distribution of the city. A building was commenced in
1611, and from that time the accounts of the establishment \Vere submitted
regularly to the Cabildo, till 1748 : in this year the Bethlamite monks took
charge of the hospital, and when their order was suppressed the
establishment passed into the hands of Goyernment. It was directed by a
Philanthrbpic Society from 1828 to 1833, after which Rosas supported it by
a subvention of $12,000, till the French blockade, when he suppressed it
altogether as unnecessary : he, however, allowed it to be re-opened by
several charitable persons in 1848, allowing a subvention of $15,000 per
annum, till his fall, in 1852. Since then it has been maintained by the
Municipality at a cost of nearly $2,000,000 per annum. It is situate at the
corner of Calles Gomercio and Bi|lparce, and is attended by twenty French
Sisters of Charity, who treat the patients with the utmost kindness and
care. The physicians are ordered to prescribe wines, delicacies, &c. ad
libitum for those who require it. Old and infirm people have also an
asylum here and are allowed a little pocket-money for tobacco and yerba.
The average number of patients is over 4,000 yearly, of which eleven
per cent. die. The proportion of nationalities is — Argentines 42, Italians
13,' Spaniards 11, French 8, Germans 6, English 2, other nations 18 per
cent. The average cost of a patient is $10 a day. The officials comprise
— an administrator, two clerks, a chaplain, six physidans, nine medical
students, and three apothecaries. The establishment also comprises
a military hospital, and one for sick couvicts.
The WotnenU Hospital^ under the patronageof St.llfichael, was established
in 1743, by Padre Juan Alonzo Gonsalez and a Confraternity of Charity,
with accommodation for ten patients. In 1784 the house was much
enlarged, and again in 1823, when it passed under the charge of the
Sociedad de Beneficencia, which association of benevolent ladies still
directs its management. The hospital is under the care of fourteen
Sisters, callea l)aughters of Mary, brought from Italy in 1859 : the mothet
house and noviciate is in Montevideo, where these nuns have charge of the
Caridad Hospital The order was first established in Italy in 1829, for
caring the sick and teaching children : there are branch houses at Santa
F6, Rosario, and Cordoba. The Women's hospital is at No. 26 Calle
Esmeralda, and it has often been proposed to remove it from so central
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THE BKITISH HOSPITAL. 43
a locality to the suburbs, but there are no fields to build a new one. The
Sisters receive a trifling pension of $200 a month. There are 200 beds,
the aYierage number of patients admitted being 800 per annum, of -which
27 per cent, die.' The officials include a chaplain, three physicians, one
student, an apothecary, and seven nurses. The total annual expenditure
is aboiit $500,000infe. It is very usual with wealthy citizens or estancieros
to leave donations to this and to the Men's Hospital.
The British Hospital is a fine, airy, commodious structure, standing at the
southern extremity of the dty, on a high ground, known as Horn's hill,
with a pleasant prospect. It was built in 1859 at a cost of £3,000, the
British Government contributing one-half. A bazaar was held at Colon
theatre in October 1859, which almost redeemed all the debt, and in 1862
the American Circuq of Spalding and Rogers gave a benefit which realized
£500 : a marble slab has been put up in one of the corridors in gratitude
for the same. For the last few years an amateur English Dramatic Club
has given annual performances with signal success, at the Victoria theatre^
in aid of the hospital. The local subscriptions also amount to about £600
per anniim. There are two wards, one for opulent patients at $50, the
other for humbler classes at $20 per diem. Patients are admitted gratis
when certified to be distressed British subjects. The resident surgeon,
Bobert Beid,Esq.,M.iy., is a gentleman of acknowledged taletit and success,
and the returns of patients, operations, &c., are most favorable. In 1867
ashed was erected in front of the hospital, west view, for the reception of
fever patients. During the cholera of the following year the institute did
good service, no fewer than 72 cases having been admitted, of which more
than one-haH were discharged cured. The matron, Mrs. Blues, died of
tlie epidemic. The^xpenses of the hospital are about $250,000 per
annum: the receipts for the years 1865-67 (not including $97,361 from
the Amateur Dramatic benefits) were as follows : —
1&66.
I88f.-
1867.
Subscriptions, ....
$128,871 ...
,. $92,112 ..
. . $78,248
Donations, ....
12,070 ..
20,585 . .
2,500
Visitors,
2,210 ...
1,247 ..,
1,000
Fees,
97,064 ...
91,325 ..
150,527
•
$240,215 • $205,269 $232,275
Comparative expenditure in meat, groceries, bread, milk, «S5C. : —
$133,747 ... $121,454 ....• $133,340
r^umber of patients, 459 .... 462 .... 522
Cost of each, .... ■ $590 .... $520 .... $464
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44 CITY HOSPITALS.
A large proportion of the patients is made up of sailors and distressed
British subjects, -which causes a considerable deficit, that has to be defrayed
by local subscription. Before 1859 the British Hospital was situate in very
confined premises in Calle Indepeudencia. The committee is composed of
H.B. M. Consul, the English and Scotch chaplains, and five subscribers
annually elected.
The French HospUal is in Calle Libertad, half a cuadra from the plaza of
that name. It ivas established in 1862, and placed in charge of four Sisters
of Charity brought out from France for the institution. A bazaar was held
at the Club del Plata in 1864, which produced a handsome amount for the
hospital. There is a very neat chapel, consecrated in 1863, and a com-
pounding departnient, besides accoranuMlation fer thirty-five sick people.
During the cholera these pious daughters of St. Vincent de Paul rendered
great assistance to the poor, and the Superioress fell a victim to the
epidemic. During the Paraguayan war they have also attended the
military hospilals,.both in this city and at Corrientes. The French Hospital
is supported by subscription.
The Italian Hospiial was begun by Count Cerutti, Italian Minister, in
1858 : owing to lack of subscriptions the works were suspended for a time,
but resumed by Count La Ville, Italian Consul, in ^862, The situation is
good, being quite close to the British Hospital, at the corner of Caller-
Bolivar and Gaseros. The edifice is large and airy, with a handsome
facade : in the hall is a fine statue of Charity, in Carrara marble, and the
staircase is the bedt in the city. The blessing of the ebapel took place on
the 27th December, 1863, the Bishop offidatiiig, and the sponsors inchiding
the Pope's Nuncio, the Italian Minister, tke President fF the Bepublic, /and
the Governor. In 1865 it was converted into a military hospital for
wounded Brazilians from the seat-of-war ; in 1867 it was used as. a cholera
hospital for the city, and subsequently there was a project to buy it for the
Municipality, and transpiort the Women's Hospital hither. At present it is
closed up, but will, probably, ere long be devoted to its real purpose, the
reception of sick Italians. ' The committee consist of the Italian Consul, the
Vice-Consul, and 100 silbscribers.
The Irish Hospital^ in Calle Bio Bamba, was established by the Sisters of
Mercy in 1862, a wing being built to the convent for the purpose, and the
expense defrayed by the Irish sheepfarmers. The wards are spacious and
well-ventilatecf, but generally empty; in fact, the number of sick among
the Irish residents bears no proportion whatever to their population. The
nuns have a House of Befuge attached, where fifteen orphan girls are
brought up at the expense of the convent. During the cholera the hospital
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THE SAJHITARY HISTITUTE. 45
was full, and the Sisters were uatiriBg in their i^ttendance on the sick.
One of the Irish priests acts as cbaplais both to the convent and the
hospital.
The Sanitary InUiMej on Calle Boen Orden hill, is one of the finest
establishments in the country, built with an utter disregard to expense^
and supplied with every comfort and luxury in the way of sanitary arrange-
ments. It was opened in June 1868. The grand entrance faces on Calle
Buen Orden, and is back: from the strict about twenty yards ; on either
side in the garden in firont there is a handsome jet d*eau; ascending the
«teps the stranger enters a stately portico, with Corinthian pillars, and, on
entering ttehall, finds on one side the apothecary's department, and on the
other the telegraph office, which connects with the central office at 31 Calle
Tacuari. The outward hall or passage, which runs around the building,
leads to the varions chambers of sickness and convalescence ; the space
intervening between this hall and the round room in the centre, which is
the chapel beneath the dome, is occupied by varioi^s saloon dormitories for
the patiebts, each and^U opening on the chapel in the centre,, the altar of
which revolves, so as to be seen by all the patients ; tod the beautiful
stained-glass windows of the various departments open on the chapel in
question. Ascending to the second flight we find the rooms, the hall, and
the dormitories precisely in the same order as on the first floor, with the
exception that the hall opens upon a charming terrace, which commands
the finest view in the city. Aloft is the dome. Which is an immense iron
cistern, containing several hundred pipes of water, pumped up by steam
from the premises in the rear; each room is supplied with hot and -cold
water baths, patent ventilator, gas, and electric bells, with windows
looking out on the gardens. The institute receives subscribers on payment
of 330 Tfojc monthly, or ^300 m^ a year, in advance, by which they are
qualified, when sick, to enter and remain until cured ; a deaa airy apart-
ment, .with suitable food, medical adviser, physic, and attendance, are
supplied. For the use of sailors the proprietor, It. Lassance, has made the
following regulations : — 1st. Every vessel, on entering port, can have her
crew insured, provided always that she can show a clean bill Of health.
2nd. Each member of the crew shall pay $50 ii^fc. 3rd. Anj individual
taken ill eight days after will be admitted. 4th. The $50 aboVe-mentioned
only pays the mariner for three months. 5th. If the vessel brings sick,
the doctors attached to the establishment shall classify them into aPositive
short cure» ahd «D6ubtful long cute.» The former will only be treated as
€Xterns, paying so touch a day, the latter will be admitted on chance, that
is to say, for the sum of $500 ii^fc they are cared and attended until qui*e
46 CHARITABLE UISTITUTI05S.
restored. Noa-subscribers can be accommodated, whilst ill, with private
rooms and all requisites, at from $50 to $100 per day. Subscribers
desirous of extra privileges can obtain them at half-price. Medical Staff —
Dr. Luis Drago, President of the Board of Health, one apothecary, and two
assistants. Consulting Physicians — ^Drs. William Rawson, Ventura fiosch,
Nicanor Albarellos, Teodoro Alvarez, Toribio Ayerza. Free visits for the
poor on Mondays and Fridays. Hours — From 8 to d a.m., and from 4.30 to
5.30 P.M. The dru^s for the poor, ordered by the physicians of the
establishment on the above days, will be compounded in the dispensary for
half the regular prices. Patients are at perfect liberty to bring in any.
member of the faculty they choose for their own account, and the resident
physicians will always assist without fees at a consultation called by the
parent's particular doctor. The town oflice is at 31 Calle Tacuari. The
site of the hospital was formerly included in Balcarce's quinta. The
edifice was begun in 1866 : it has the appearance of a rotund^, and can be
seen from the city. There is a fine kitchen garden attached, to raise
vegetables for the house. Subscribers or patients are admitted without
any distinction.
convalecehcia, poor atcd foUx^dlino asylums.
The Convaleeenciay or Lunatic Asylum, is about half a mile from the Plaza
Constitucion, on a hill overlooking. Barracas. It takes its name from a
hospital founded by the Bethlemite monks. The present new building was
erected in 1859, at a cost of $2,000,000, the Legislature providing one-
half: the architects were Messrs Huut and Schroeder. The edifice is
spacious, being the only asylum for male and female patients in the
country : they were formerly confined in narrow and unwholesome
quarters at the Residencia. It is related by Pillado that in 1785 there
were but seven lunatics in Buenos Ayres. The average number of patients
is about 400, of whom 28 per cent, are cured. The Men's quarter is under
the charge of a manager, a physician, and fourteen keepers : that of the
Women is managed by nine Italian «religieuses» called ((Daughters of
Mary.)) who receive a pension of §200^a month, having been brought out
expressly at the request of the Municipality ; there are also a chaplain , a
doctor, and seven servants. The expenses of the Women's asylum are
paid out of the Provincial revenues of Buenos Ayres, and administered by
the ladies of the Sociedad de Beneficencia, amounting to $320,000 pe^Tp
annum. The Men's asylum is supported by the Municipality, at a cost of
$370,000 per annum.
FOUNDLIKG AUD ORPHAIC HOMES. 47
The Ct/na, or Foandling Asylnm, is sitaale at the back of San Francisco^
ftciag the Debtors' prison, with the toachtng inscription «My father and
mother haye cast me oat, God's pity hlis sheltered me here.» The innocent
Tictims o£ shame or distress are kindly brought up, and not unfrequently
attain a good position in society. Infanticide is unknown, thanks to this
institution. There is a staff of seventeen nurses, under the direction of
six Italian nuns; also a physician and a chaplain. A new asylum has
been erected near the Convalecencia, where forty weaned children are
cared for. The parents may claim a child up to two years, but after this
term it becomes the property of the institute : at a certain age the children
are given out, with consent of the Juez deMenores, to respectable families
who engage to rear and educate them, making them also useful in domestic
i^nrice, giving account of them when required by the Sociedad de
Beneficencia, and not taking them out of the country without a special
permission. Notwithstanding every care given to the poor foundlings
from the first moment, about one-third of them die, and 4 per cent, are
claimed by their parents, who in this case have to pay a small retribution
to the institute. The Guna was e^ablished by Don Jos6Riglos and the
Vice-roy Vertis, in 1779, from which time it remained under charge of the
civil authorities till .1823, when the Sociedad de Beneficencia was formed.
It was suppressed by Bosas in 1838, and re-established in 1852, since
which latter date over 300 children have been received. The annual
expenditure is $600,000.
Female Orphan School, — This institute was begun at San Miguel church,
in 1755, by the Confraternity of Charity, which being suppressed in 1822,
the asylum then pjtssed into the hands of Government. Bosas did not
suppress the institute, but merely obliged the orphans to dress in red, the
color of his party. The orphanage now exists in the suppressed convent
J^ttachedto the Merced church, under the direction of the Sociedad de
Beneficencia. Previous to the cholera of 1867 the number of orphans
was limited to thirty-two, but the sad effects of the epidemic caused
Governor Alsina to increase the number permanently to seventy-five.
There are also 100 externs educated in the school. There are two
mistresses, seven assistants, a chaplain, three visiting masters, and a staff
of servants. The annual expenditure is §400,000.
The Asilo de Mendigos^ or Poor Asylum, is situate in the extinct convent of
the Recoleta, adjoining the cemetery. Buenos Ayres has always been
almost free from mendicity, although Parish represei^ti^j j^^ew beggars in
his time who used to go about on horseback. A few lame or blind men
still make their rounds on Saturdays, afoot. The asylum was established
48 ' CHARITABLE LXSTITUTIONS.
by the Municipality ia 1858, and inaugurated by Governor Valentin Alsina :
at the end of th^t year it contained seventy-nine mendicants. The first
committee of direction vras composed of Canon Fuentes, Dr. Pinedo, and
Messrs. Martinez, Varela, Pintos, Ferpandez, Billinghurst, Cabrera, Zinny,
and Seuorans. The average number in the asylum is about 200, of vrhom
three-fourths are whites, including some foreigners and old soldiers. The
treatment they receive is very good. The Municipality contaributes $60,000
a year, and the rest is made up by voluntary subscription. Previous to
1858 the convent was used as a barrack: the situation is very fine,
<^ommanding an extensive view over the River Plate.
Los mercicios is a kind of female penitentiary at the corner of Calles
Salta and Independencia. The institute was founded in 1794, by a nun
pamed Maria Antonia Paz^ from Santiago del Estero, in a house in Calle
Piedras iipw occupied by Scflor Terrero : it \vas transferred to its present
site before the neath of the founder, and has since been ruled by five
superioresses. In 1859 the Bishop reformed the rules. Tb^e are usually
100 persons in the house, between nuns and penitents, the latter bemg^
sent hither by the Tribunals. The estabUshm^nt receives a pension from
€k)vernment and various public donations.
Sociedad de Bemfkeuoia. — This society of charitable ladies was founded
in 1823, to take charge of the Women's Hospital^ Foundling Asylum,
Orphan School, and the State schools for ^irls« It was installed by
Bivddavia^ the founders being Me^dames Cabrera, Mandeville, Aguirre,
Sanches, Ramos, Boneo, Agtiero, Azcuenaga, Viambnt, Luca, Izquierdo,
Lasala, and €utierrez. It was partly suppressed by Bosas in 1838, and
revived under Mme. Garrigos in 1852. Since then it has rendered
invaluable service, rempdellfaig the above-mentioned institutions and
establishing seventy female free schools in town and country, which, are
attended by 5,000 xshildren.
Deaf and Dumb Institute^ 481 Calle Cangallo : it was founded in 1857 by
a philanthropic society called La Begeneracion, and placed under the
direction of Mr. Charles Keil. The Provincial Government, pays a
subvention of $12,000 a year, and the rest is borne by the society. The
children are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, drawing. Christian
doctrine, &c., but their number rarely exceeds half-a-dozen. They
afterwards earn a living as cigar-makers, boot-makers, &c.
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STREETS AND SHOPS. 49
CHAP. Y.
STREETS AND SHOPS.
The Calle Rivadayia bisects the city, running due west from tlie Plazt
Victoria to the Plaza Once de Setiembre, a distance of two miles: it is
crossed at intervals of 150 yards by twenty-three streets, which take
different names as they run north or south. At the corner of Pluza Victoria
and Calle San Martin Mr. Olivera, a cigar seller, has buiit a line threc-jitory
house with a good view of tlie Plaza. In the first bloek we find tlie Cofo
del Plata and many dry goods stores, besides Phillips' Hiiueral water
establishment, CranwelPs drug store., and the ollite of Best Brothers .
The second block contains a large building belonging to Sefior Anchoieiia,
in which are some foreign merchants' offices, viz. : Messrs. Lohman & Co.,
Paul Pott & Co., Clark & Malm, and the hat shop of Mr. Christian
Sommer. l^assing; these we meet, at the corner of Chacabuco, the Club
del Plata^'^after which come the offices of Fels, Seyffert, & Co., Malmann &
Co., Luders & Co., the Gas Co., Parody's clothing store, and Boldan &
Amaral's agricultural implement store ; pursuing our course we come to
the grand coach depot of Seftor Cabral. Next is the school of the Freoclr
nuns ; and at the corner of Calle Libertad is th^ splendid house of Messrs.
Unzue. three blocks further are the Plaza and market of Lorea, near
which is an old wind-mill. The street widens before it reaches the Once
de Setiembre, but is irregularly built. It was originally called
(&M§i
50 STREETS XVD SHOPS.
Torres, because the towers of the old cathedral were visible to wayfarers
coming in from the direction of Flores : it was next called Calle Federacion,
but obtained its present name on the occasion of the funeral of Bivadavia.
We shall now take the streets at right angles in their order, beginnings
with the North end.
\
STREETS RUNNING NORTH.
Paseo de Julio runs along the beach, from the Custom-house northward,
and has a number of ship-chandleries and whaleboat offices, viz., those of
AUinson, Mahon, McLean, Herring, Eckell, Lowry, andL^ Couter, besides
many coffee-houses and outfitters' shops. There are back -entrances to the
Commercial Booms and' Capitania del Puerto. Seftor Llavallol has a fiae
house at the corner of Calle. Cuyo, Senor Gomez at the corner of Calle
Corrientes, and the Hotel du Nord is well suited for ship-captains, having a
fine view of the port. There is a first-class foundry belonging to an old
Spaniard named Cuinilla, whos6 ^on was educated 'W*Manchester, and who
purposes establishing the first cloth factory iu the River Plate. Next
follows the foundry of Stevens & Co. The Paseo Julio was formerly a
promenade, which Rosas intierided prolonging out to Palermo ; part of the
balustrade was knocked down by the Santa Rosa gale, August 1860. At
the foot of Calle Cordoba it is proposed to build wharves and bonded stores :
this point is known asBajo de las Catalihas, from the adjacent convent. A
little further we meet the ice-house, and the beach is now lined with
willoW-plantations among which the black washerwomen appear in great
numbers. The Gas-house forms the extreme north point of the city: it i^
defended by a strong sea-wall and has all the necessary workshops, retorts,
&c. for its present supply of 40,000 lights in the city.
Calle 25 de Mayo runs parallel with the Paseo de Julio. Messrs.
Elortondo and Bosch have two lofty edifices at the corner of the Plaza
Mayo. This strecit contains three hotels, the Globo, Paris, and Europa^
besides many houses where furnished lodgiugs may be obtained. The
C6mmercial Rooms and Capitania are nearly opposite the English church.
The British Consulate is at the corner of Corrientes. In this street are the offices
of DeeJtjen & Cb., Mofler & Co., and the American house of H. J. Ropes &
Co.; also Ddwse'^s steamboat agency, C. Wi Benn & Co. shipbrokers, and
Mulvany's coffee-house. The Southern Railway directors have their office
it the British Consulate. Digitized by GoO
€ALLH RECOlfQUI&TA. : 51
Calk Reeohquista begins at Colon theatre : it was formerly called Defensa.
but in 1809 received its present name to commemorate the recovery of the
city from General Beresford. The old house, formerly occupied by J. C.
Thompson & Co., was the residence of some of the vice-roys, and is of
remarkable construction. In this same block we find the offices of Samuel
B. Hale, Latham & Co., Mr. Dowdall, broker, Gowland & Co., and the
hardware store of Mr. Dakin; on the opposite side the Portuguese
Consulate, the offices of Rossi & Co., Tay and Upton, American shipbrokers,
and the grocer's shop of T. Moore, who does a large business with Irish
sheepfarmers. The new London and Biver Plate Bank is a fine structure,
at the comer af Calle Piedad. In the same block we find the residence of
Canon Fahey, the patriarch of Irish residents ; the apothecary's shop of
Cranwell and Murray, the offices of Moore Punch and Tudor ; H. A. Green
& Co., shipbrokers and agents for the Liverpool steamers ; Bughes & Peters,
produce-brokers; J. C. Thompson & Co. ; Bemberg&Co. ; audBick&Co.
Opposite to Cranwell and Murray's is the fine mansion of the late Sefior
Ocha^ an old ^anish mercliant ; and next door is a stately pile erected by
Br. Costa, late Minister of Instruction, who has now let it out in offices;
those of the Central Argentine Railway and Mr. Coghlan, C.E., are in the
upper story. At the corner of Calle Cangallo is the Hotel de la Paix.
Next comes the Merced church, with orphan asylum attached. Thd
architect was a Jesuit priest named Andrea Blanqui, who built several
ehurchesin this city. In the chancel is still seen a portrait of the chief
benefabtor and his wife, with the date 1769. Opposite is the
luxurious residence of Seflor Anchorena. Mr. Kelly, the apothecary,
has a shop at the next corner, opposite Bisso^s steamboat agency. The Italian
Bank was in the fourth block, but after a» brief existence of two years it
was closed up and the furniture sold by auction. In this block are the
offices of Folmar & Co., American merchants; Dr. Nelson, a resident
physician of long standing; Sassenberg & Co.; Bunge & Co.; and
Warnholtz & Co ; this last 6rm has taken much interest in the importation
of Angora goats from the Cape of Good Hope. la the fifth block is the
Model School, founded in 1859.
Calle San Martin begins at Plaza Victoria : in the first block are the
Foreign Cliib and Mackcrn's book-Store, where strangers may find it
convenient to ask informatiou ; also the offices of Bussell and Anderson,
produce brokers ; Aguirre & Murga, the great landed proprietors of Bahia
Blanca; Woodgate Brothers, ship-brokers and agents for Tait's line of
steamers ; and the haberdashery of Mr. Flower. The„ji.^xt|)lock contains
tlie Provincial and Argentine Banks^ the handsome residences of the Pacheco
B2
52 STREETS AKD SHOPS.
and Tejedor families, and the offices of J. P. Boyd & Co., ship-brokers and
agents for the Liverpool steamers ; the grocers shop of Feely & Wilsoq,
Grieben's casino, the American store of Bate & Livingstone, Clausen^s
cigar shop, and several offices 6f money-brokers, including that of Mr.
Henry Hart. Farther on we come to the Bolsa, the Universelle lodging
house, public baths, Loedel's English book-store, the German photographic
studio, the printing offices of the German paper, of Seflor Estrada, and of
the Nacion Argentina: in this block there are two Casinos or lunch
saloons. The fourth block contains the Louvre Hotel, the house of General
Mitre, the office of Haycroft & Co., and the residence of General Paz's
family. The fifth has a beautiful mansion belonging to Seftor Anchorena,
No. 137, and opposite is the two-story terrace of Seflor MiriJ,. which is
rented out in very neat and commodious English lodgings. Crossing Calle
Parque we find another princely house of the Anchorena family : at the
corner of Tucuman is a range of houses belonging to Mr. Airmstrong ; and
the next block *^ews us th^ convent of Catalinas, with church attached.
The founder was Br. Dionisio firiseflo, and the architect Joan Narbana,
from plans by Padre Blanqui. At the end of the street is thd^quinta
Laprida, now Dr. White's school.
Calle Florida is perhaps the best street in the city. The; residjence of
Mr. Lumb, an old English resident, that of the Dornego femily^ and many
fashioniAle shops, along with the offices of Bussell Shaw, Mitchell & Co.,
and E, Glorer make up the first block : the second has also numerous
jewellers' shops aud bazaars : the third has Alzaga's fine house, after which
comes that of ,Mr. Plowes, and then the office of Darbyshire, Krabbd, & Co. :
the fourth contains some lodging-houses and a German Club, after which
comes the Spanish Consulate : the fifth comprises some of the most
elegantly fiuished houses in town. The rest of the street as far as the
Betiro comprises the most fashionable qnarter : here we meet the houses
of Ocampo, Jackson, Blaye, Macklnlay, Biestra, &c. At the comer of Calle
Tucuman i^ the apothecary shop of Espinosa & Kyle. In tlie ninth block
Seflor Madero built a market in 1865, but it has been closed : opposite is a
very pretty nursery. At the corner of Calle Paraguay is a block of houses
belonging to Mr, Armstrong. There is a wooden draw-bridge across Calle
: Paraguay, for footrpassengers . in time of rain : there being no street-
drainage .the stream that comes ruling down here after heavy rains is so
great that a man was drowned here in October 1868. One block now
takes ^s;tothe handsome promenade of the Betiro.
Calle Maypfu is called after the victory over the Spaniarcfe in 1818. The
blocks near the centre have some English offices, vir., KoWstedt & Co.,
CALLES ESMbRALDA ANIX ARTES. 53
Isaac & Co., Ferber, Hnhn, &Co., Clarke & Co., and Bates, Stokes, & Co. ;
this last is one of the oldest and most influential houses in the River Plate,
being also agents for Jthe Liverpool and Pacific Company's steamers ; there
is nothing else of interest till you reach General San Martin's statue in the
Plaza Retire.
Calle Esmeralda derives its name from a naval feat of Lord Cochrane's
in the port of Callao, 1820. The Women's hospital, in the first block,
a^ommodates 200 patients. Iq the next is the German Lutheran church.
A little further is Mr. Coffin's depot of American machinery and farming
implements. At the corner of Calle Cordoba is a handsome mansion and
garden, the residence of a Spaniard named Giraldez. Near the Retire is
the residence of the Chilian Consul: this spacious house was built by a
vrealthy estanciero for his wife, who died immediately after, and on this
accouilt he kept it cl6sed lip for many years. A nem Wock of houses in
English iiyU has t)^en built at thi corner of Plaxa Retiro .
CkiUe Suipacha, called aft^f another victory ovisrthe Spaniai^ds, has many
handsome residences in the first four or five blocks, that of Seflor Atucha
being the finest. Beside l^ab Bli^uel cburdi is an old established English
sefnaihary, tiext diior* tO'Mr". Lehz, jeweller. At the seventh bl6ck we come
to a little ^qxmte called 4?laia del Temple, now ' shabby and old-fashioned,'
bat it is supposed there wais a sword-factory here long ago, to give rise to '
tb6 hamb,' sincfe <cteiii^le» signifies «th(e teni|)er of a blade.)) the'¥est oi '
this street is ligly till W approach the! Socdrro : a chapel was fii-st built '
at t&e Socori*d*by Don Alejabdro^^l Valte, the'tebnildhig oi which iii'
recent tlineaf gave riSe to* a great lawsuit, and^here a tasteful row of*
Bnglish hoh^iels'hK^ beeta built by Mrl^ D^abbl^. 'Psts^ing th^ splemtid^^
residene^ of ty^gefitfetoan^ who owtis the etiti¥d>W^ w% r6ach the*^^
qumta 6f Btf. SaWlailn^ria, and then th^ pi^ihcely r^Swleoie cf tte Esti^ada^
f a[mily '; from tfiis poHit id obtained a chbrinlhg view of the river*.
Calle Artes has little'of notfe texoejpt the knftrket arid water-works: the^
former was parKall^ biltned in 1^62, biit v^as rebuilt* this Is one of the.
highest spots in the city, and therefcire (Jh()seri for the tank of the water-
works. The chtirch of San Nicolas is at the comer of Corrientes: it'
was built by Don Francisco Araajd, and the capuchin nuns were first
stationed here. Thfe chdrch has been recently decorated anew by the
«cnra,)) Canon Edward O'Gorraan. The Brazilian Legation is at No. 166,
and a little further is the Club del Parque. At the end ot the street,
overlooking the river, is the quinta of Don Lorenzo Torres.
Calle Cerrito and Calle Libertad are comparatively new streets : the latter
runs through the Plazas Parque and Libertad, out to the Cinco Esquinas.
54 STREETS AND SHOPS.
In this locality are several pretty quintas originally built ' by Messrs.
Whitfield and Klappenbach, and now occupied by English families. The
Chevalier Noel keeps the French Legation in the house previously occupied
by H.B.M. Minister, Mr. Buckley Mathew. The families of Coghlan,
Cardenas, Glover, Harrison, and Kinch have the neighbouring quintas.
The other streets running north from Calle Rivadavia are only partly
built on. At the corner of CallaoandParque is a large Jesuit college, just
finished, and in Gaile Rio Bamba. near the corner of Tucuman, is the Irish
convent of Mercy.
STREETS RUJTNmG SOUTH.
Calle Bakarce runs south from Plaza Mayo, by the back of San Francisco
and Santo Domingo convents, passing the old Custom-house, the mill of the
Andes, and a number of old houses which bear the impress of the early
Spaniards,
Calle Defensa is quite an English street, running from the Beooba Vieja
to the British Hospital. For several blocks w^ m^^t English grpcery
stores^ boot shops, draperies, &o. In the first blo<;k are — the British
Library; the officesf of Wells and Gatliff, brokers ; Eastman's drag store;
Lyid^au's hat shop; James Hill, customs-bouse broiler; C,. T. Getting
& Co., import and export merchcmts; Claypole's n^wjspe^per agency;
F}<aming's boot shop; G. Ellis), clpthier; Galbjrai);!^ & Punter, .and A^..
Fulton & Co., drapers; Key^e^r's bar room; Davenport <$!:;. Q)). The.
Irish church of San Roque is at the corner of .P^iost, nei^t to tbfit of San
Fri^nciscpy and lower down is. Santo Domingo,. AtiPifO/Qt ,V^ this street
I^osas was born ; thehouf^e belonged to theEz^Cjurra fan^iJiy. - Inthis san^e,
block we find Torres & Barton's drug pto^e, Mr. J[ames White's houpe,.
Barry & Walker's grocery, hardware, and drapery jstor^, and the Porvenir
printing-oOice. In the next cuadra are— ^Gowland'$, auiCtionpart, Southron's
saddlery, Roncproni's color and paint shop. Opposite Sf^nto Domingo is
the drug store of Signor Demarchi, who is Swiss Consul, and a little lower
. down are Bellas timber yard and the grocery of Rob^t Muir & Co. The
Black barrack, at the corner of Calle Mejico, is now a Customs deposit, in
front of which are Gregory^s livery stables. The wooden bridge is an
abominable locality : here a torrent runs, down in wet weather ; in fact, it
is an open sewer. San Telmo is on high ground, a little above the Comercio
Market; it was built by Padre Blanqui, and in 1815 was made a parish
church. Further on is Fair's quinta, so long the residenceof the Britisji
CALLES BOLIVAR AND PERU. 55
Legation, now belonging to Mr. Lowry of Montevideo, and tenanted by
Mr. Perry. The ornamental grounds and residence of Don Gregorio
Lezama, at the furthest south end, command a fine prospect of the city and
roadstead: they are said to have cost £50,000 sterling. A terrace of
English houses hard by belongs to Mr. Ludlam. The British Hospital
crowns the barranca overlooking Barracas and the south.
Calk Bolivar, formerly Santa Rosa, has yet many traces of antiquity.
At No. 12 is the residence of General Gelly Obes, formerly a convent; the
bones of some of the nuns were found here. In front is a very antique
three-story house, and further on is the Nacional office, close to Sefior
Lezica's handsome residence. In the second block is the College church,
formerly belonging to the Jesuits, who were said to have an underground
passage from here to the old fort. The architect of the church was
Padre Blanqni, and the chief benefactor Don Juan Antonio Costa,
date 1722. In November, 1868, the workmen- laying down the
water pipes found an old well in the middle of the street, opposite
Mr. Mortals book-store. In this block are — ^M. Bonnemason's office,
agent for the Marseilles line of steamers, and the millinery shop of Mrs.
M*.Dougall. At the corner of Calle Moreno is a large building, newly
erected, the property of the Anchorena family, and in front is the Patente
Office. Lower down is the Supreme Federal Court ; then the new house
of Dir. Quiutana, the Post-office, the Brazilian Consulate, the Lottery Oflicc,
-and the hou^e of Seilor Aldecoa!. At the corner of Calle Euro pa is the
brewery of M. Buhler. The street terminates with the Italian Hospital,
corner of Caseros, and on the barranca is the quinta of Seilor Gonsalez
'•• • ■ ' ' . I •' I -,, 1 • . ■ I • . ■ . . * , "lig 4't^
Moreno.. • m .
Calle Peru. — The first T)lock has the splendid mansions of Molina,
Armstrong, Elizajde, Elortondo, and some fine shops. No, 3 is the shop of
Mr*. 'Ja^gli, agent for Rosjcell & Cq., watchmakers. At the corner of
Victoria is the Club J^rogreso, a princely edifice built by Sefior Maaoa, wliq^ . ,
like so many lothqrSjj Ian4ed in the country without a shilliiig, A little
fiirtheir is the office of the Sbciedad Rural, or Farmers' Club, At the next,
corner we coijie, to the Museum and Old Market ; tliere is a kiosk in front of, .
the market, where hack-coaches may he liired chcnp. Opposite to tlie
University and Chambers of Legislature is a row of houses belonging to
Mr. Armstrong. At the next corner is' a steam confectionary. Another
block brings us to Don Bicardo O'Shee's office, forqaerly the residence of
the Bishop, and vulgarly called Casa de la Vireyna. Lower down
are — ^the office of Peyredieu & Bradley, brokers, and Mr. James
Carmen's barraca. p.^.,.^^^ byGoOgk
56 STREETS AND SHOPS.
Calle Chacabuco begins at the Club del Plata ; it has several commercial
offices, Yiz. : Barbour, Barclay, & Co., Mr. Loog, jeweller, Cohen <fe Joseph^
Stock & Co., Mantels & Pfeiffer, Semple & Co., Dillemann, Lan4wech, &
Desarnaud, and runs by the Old Market, terminating at Mr. Zimmejrmann's
quinta, where the Municipality made several attempts to cut a road down
the barranca, but was prevented by the Law Courts.
Calle las Piedras passes by the Scotch Church and the convent pf Sai^ .
Juan, In this street reside Bev. J. Smith, Mr. Parravicini, Austrian
Consul; Dr. Terrero, lawyer; Dr. Varela, Jlinister of Foreign Affairs;
Santillan *& Co., brokers, ,
Calle Tacuari has some fine buildings: in the first block is a French
school; in the second are the Colegio Griego and Madame Faraeiji's scmiy
nary, both for young ladies ; in the third is Mr. Nidiolson's sdiopL At th^
corner of Independom ia h the Coiicepciou Church, A little chat>el was first
built here by Don Mali as Flqres, who sulisquently in conjunction with Don ,
Gcroiiimo Pizarro, undertook to crert a parish church on the spot ; and eightr,
bloclk^ further %vc reach the chapel and schools of Santa Catalioa,. which were ,.
founded by bequest of a wealthy citizen, in I860, and since (jhen the.
adjoining property has become verv valnabic, EardeA'ick*s and Prange's
barracas are iu this neighborliood. , .. ., i ' i ' . ^ iru
Calle nnrn Ordcn has always Men the fl*cat nigiiway to the south! it
riins through the Plazas of Monserrat and lodepcndencia, terminatip^ fit,
the grand Sanitary Institute on the «barranoaM overJobkin^ the CaUe Larga. .
Calk Lima is the route taken by the tramway from the Southern Railway
terminus into town, passing through the Plaza Coristitucion* In Uiis street^
are the Ejercicios and (he ladependencia fnarkct j also, the office ^f
C0rfale8&!xV^eh;nianni brokers; , j ^^
The other s^eet^ running sou^iJfrbii^R worth notice-.^
At the corner of Saa *Jbs6 ana tl6chat>amba is the^ne^v convent school of
the.Frencli nuns^ with aneak cbapel; Tlje* Si ^.suburbs comprise many,
fine quintas^; belqnglng to the families pfCa^ares, Bunge, Go w land, CresiJOj
Martinez de Boz, Aldao, Downes, Diehl, Frias^ and Navarro Viola: near
the last-named are the Southern Cemetery and the new (cmataderos.»
STREETS RUNNING WEST — NORTH END,
There are thirty-one streets running west from the river side, anid we
shall begin with those in the north end.
Calle Piedad is the first street parallel with Rivadavia, and one of the
great business thoroughfares. In the second block are the /offices of
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CALLE CAUfGALLO: 5?
Messrs. Ddgui* & €<>. and A!tirfng, Hutz, & Co'. At the corner of Calle
Reconquista is the new English Bank. In the third block >ve find Mr.
Fallon's general wholesale and retail store, called the Hibernian House,
dso the offices of T. Nuttal, of Tomkinson & Co., and Turmeau's grocery.
In the fourth block are the famous Swiss Confiteria, Ashworth & Co.,
Gilmour & Co., Barker, bill broker, Carlyle, Smith, & Co., Giffdrd
Brothers, Drabble Brothers & Co., the Estrella, Bierihechora, and
Argentine insurance companies, and Twyford's grocery. Crossing
Calle Florida we come to the residence of ex-Governor Saavedra, the
public batiis, Parlane, Graham, & Co., Khaynach & Co., Kerr & Grierson,. J.
Bro^m &Co., Milligan & Williamson. At the cornerof Suipacha is SanMiguel
church. * The present church was commenced on St. Michael's day, 1782,
and completed six years later : it \^as not consecrated till 2'ti^t November,
1784, tlie curate bcin*^ Don Jose Gortzalez Islas, a native of Santint^o del
Estcro: six cundra:^ further i^ the Piedad elmrfh. It was founded by a
Portuguese, named Manuel Gomez, Before reacliing the Plaza Once de "
Setienibrc wc reach the Balvanera, a new and imposing churthi attached ^
to which Ls the college of the Padres t^ayoneses; the church was begun^
hy a Franciscan mendicant friur named Juan Rodriguez, Tvitli the intent of
establishing a house for missionaries on the Chiliiui and Peruvian iniBsidrisi
near thi*; is Li viu^s tone's barraca, , , '
Calk-'CungaUo^ formerly called la ^cre6&. In tW second Jjlock are the
ProT^ence Hotel, the American Mqthodist Church, and Sciarrano^s steamboat
ag^ricy. The HoteV de' la^^aii is in front of the Fi^encH tWre,
and then come the Ancla' Borada and th<^ excelleht coffee-houses' called '
Caf^de Paris and Cafe de Catiilanes, which are crowded every evening :
the best dinners in toNfti may be obtained here. In this bioct'arie tlie
offlctes of Peltzcr & Co.i Leiipuy^ux, ship broW, and the clothing stores of
Temperiey and Parody: At the next corner is the Hotel Saii Martin,
pds^ng which is the Electric Telegraph office, aiid then theTtfauS Uaiit :
on the other side you see the splendid house and ware-rooms of Fnsoni & [
Maveroff. The picture gallery of Corti & Francischelli is al the corneir b5f^
Florida. In the next block is the fine new building called Carabassa's Bank.
Four cuadras further is the New Hark'et, anS crossing dalle Talcahuano we
remark a building with Grecian fronts the club house of the Italian
BeneTolent Society.
Calle Cvyo be-ins' at LlayaTloPs mansion, which is the Roman Consulate,
and in the next block are two fashionable houses, the first the residence of
Mr. Charles Saguier, the second contains the steamboat agencies of Matti
& Piera and the Corrientes Company. At the corner of Esmeralda is a
58 STR|ii;T:S -IRD, SHOPS,
tasteful row of houses, iu pne of which the def\inct. liiterary Club
used to meet.
Calk Corrientes — la the first block is the .\sylum for Eniigrfints, after
which is the Victoria Hotel. Next come Miss Roche's railliaery shop, Mr.
Holm's fashionable warehouse, and Shaw's upholstery. At the corner of
Esmeralda is Black's timber yard. At the corner of Artes is the church of
San Nicolas, and on crossing Calle Libertad we find another of the woodea
bridges so necessary for foot-passengers when rains flood the streets.
Calle Parque has long been a fashionable street. Anchorena's and
Mir6's houses are very fine : the latter, at the corner of San Martin, being let
out in first-class English lodgings : in this street are the French and Swedish
Consulates, Dr. Ayer, Dr. Alston, Messrs. Allen Bailey & Co. Passing
Calle Esmeralda we reach the Coliseum, and in the next block is the British
Legation. Two blocks further is the Plaza Parque.
Calles Tucuman and Temple come next. Thefir^tmay be said to terminate
■ at the Parque railway terminus, the second runs from the Jlonjas convent,
passing through the ]?lazas Temple and Parque.
Calle$ Cordoba and Parugitnyj, — In the first there is nothing remarkable
till we reach tlie outskirts, lu the fourteenth bbck is the chapel of £1
Carmen, founded in tlie begin uing of this century by a wealthy native.
Six squares further is a quint a tastefully laid out belonging to the late Dr.
Leslie. Not far from this. is ^noth^rverj handsome, belonging tp. Dr^
Velez Sarsfield. . ' . ' \
Caller Charcas^ Santa 1% anAArenates rnnif;omth^^^^
The last named terminates in the flueco de Cabezitas, an open ^pace of .
some ten acres- i ^ , , . ,i ' „ • • ) . « .; \
Caih Juncul, is the extreme nprth line of the city, and here J^re situate^^
many pi:etty rcsidentjes overlooking the riVer. ^ j^n t^is street -is the
American legatioiij passing Syhich we come tb \he Clnco Esquiqa^, ,an^,old
fashioned locality, deriving its name from, t^ie «6ve corners)) bore^orqied
by tlic crossing of the t^treets. From this point there is a wellj pa ve4, street ,
to the Eecoleta. , , , ' .; . :, . .
SWEETS RUI^SWG WEST — ^O^TH. pIJMiDf /
Calle Victoria is the first street parallel with Rivadavia, i^ the south;
section. In the first block are Messrs. Gibson and Murray, tailors;
Dickleman & Co., and the trihuna oflBce : crossing Calle Peru we h^ive pa
one side a French bazaar, and on the other the Progreso Club, after which
come the German Club, Esbens & Co., Jourde & Co., Ebbeke, Wedekind j
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, , GALLES POTOSl AJID BiXORANO. 5^ .
Fehr & Co., Scbultz & Co. Passiuig Calle Esmeralda is the Alcazar,
and then comes the Victoria theatre. Five squares further we pass
the Plaza Lorea, and at the sixteenth block from the Plaza Victoria is the
Bishop's chapel of Salinas, attached to which is the diocesan seminary for
ecclesiastics. Two squares further is the British cemetery.
Calle Patosi runs from the chapel of San Roque, past the College church,
Old Market, and the convent of San Juan: near this are the
mansions of Cibils and Terrero. In this street are, Mr. Billinghurst's
auction-rooms, Mr; Binden, broker; Underwood's upholstery, Iturraspe &
Co. li^ the fourteenth block is a handsome quinta once belonging to the
late General Guido, and here the Italians are building a chapel of ease.
Call^ Moreno^ formerly San Francisco, begins at the Cuna and Debtors'
prison. In the second block is Mr. Drysdale's fine new house, and at the
next comer a massive building belonging to the Anchorenas. The next
block is occupied by the Provincial Government-house, State Library, and
Mode^ School. We next pass Kitchen's plumber's shop, and Mr. Bernheim's
printing-house and type foundry : here the «Republica)) and French
p«per are publisihed. In the fifth block are the residences of the
Stegman family, and Minister Ay^Uaneda. Two blocks further we reach
the Plaza Monserrat.
Caite Belgrano begias with the church and convent of Santo Domingo,
in the second block is the Standard ofiBce, next to which is the
National Statistic Department. In the next block is the residence of the
President of the Republic, and passing the Plaza Monserrat we reach the
church of that name. The origin of Monserrat was a small chapel built
here by Don Pedro Sierra, which was made a parish church in 1769. At
the foot of Calle Belgrano a whale was washed ashore in 1866.
Calle Venezuela. — At the foot of this street is the temporary terminus of
the Boca Railway. There are some fine houses in this street, especially
that of Seflor Alzaga, and finished in modern style with rich marble
ornaments. In this street are Paats & Co., Murdock & Henderson, beer
importers ; Burmeister, wool-broker ; and Mr. Shaw's great furniture mart.
Calle Mexico begins at the Plaza Andes. At the corner of Chacabuco is
Cabrars factory. The Anglo-German hotel is in the second block.
Calle C/nTehas nothing worthy of note.
Calle Independencia. — In the third block is Mrs. Powell's boarding and day
school, and in the seventh is the Concepcion church, after which come
the Plaza Independencia and the Ejercicios.
Calles Estados Unidos and Enropa follow next. Nothing remarkable.
Torres and Schickedantz, brokers, have an office at 21 1 EstadosrtJnidos. j
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60 STREETS AND SHOPS.
Calles Comercio, San Juan, and Cochdbamha, — ^In the first we fiad the
Men's Hospital, San Tclmo church, and the' Comercio market. In Calle
Cochabaraba, thirteenth block, is the new French conrent.
Calles Gara?/ and Brazil run from Fair's quinta to the Plaza Conslitucion.
In the second we pass the chapel and schools of Santa Gatalina.
Calle Caseros is the extreme southern limit of the city,* starting from
Lczama's quinta, passing that of Gonzales Moreno, crossing the Southern
railway near the Convalecencia, and terminating at the hew Southern
cemetery.
The city of Buenos Ayres can hardly boast much of manufactures, but
there are some important industries. The breweries of Mr. Bieckhert in
Calle Si^lta, of 3Ir. Bahler Calle Bolivar, and several others do a large
business, Tiie coach factory of Sefldr Cabtal, the principal one iri the
country, turns out vehicles equal to any made in Europe. ' There arfe
several first-class iron foundries, including those of Sefioir Carutla,
Stevens & Kay, . John Marshall, <fec. Previous to the yeiar t^6d
we procured ic^ from the United States, but Mr. Detnritchi's factory no\t
supplies this article in aburidancfe. There'are also one or two factories' for^
making wax. matches, and several for the? I^bricktton of teacarbnly itoifaerar
waters, &c. In the outskirts are numerous steam washing estafelikhmentSs
for wool and sheepskins'. A steam lauhdry^ has been recently put up, An
the Palermo road. , . ' '
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<3lI9TOI|^90V^K. 61
CHAP. yi.
THE ^ US t 0 Bl-H 0 USE.
^UnU Gostom^house, as we have mi, ib built on the 9ite qf ,the fort erected
by the first settlers^ and has a lights yi#i.e)abo«it fifteen miles. The
Custom-house is . divided! mto five diepfirtments, viz.: A^ministracion,
Contaduria, Alcaidia, Tesoreria, and Resguardo. The first comprises the
Administrator of Customs, his secretary, the arrival and sailing office, the
vistas, statistics, and archives. The second liAsan Accountant-General and
offices for despatch of goods, either direct or in deposit, for entrances and
clearances of coasting eraft, and for copyiog and numbering* documents.
The third is in chai'ge of ao: Alcaidei, Mrho has to look after the various
bonded sUyces and their contents. The fourth oomiH*ises the Treasurer and
his office, for all monetary matters. The fifth has three inspector^, one at
the Cu8tom*-house^ another at the Boca, and a third at the passengers
"wharf, who act asj coast guards.
IMPOirr TRAFFIC.
Every yessel cleiEired from foreign ports for Bulenosi Ayres must have her
papers signed by the Argentine G[>n8ul of the port of her departure, and of
whatevei: portsshe may touch at on the voyage : the Consular fee is $4, or
165., per 100 tons register. When the vessel arrives in port she is boarded
62 CUStOM-HOUSE.
bj the health officer and anoflicialfromthe pontoon Gastelli ; the latter asks
the captain what port he comes from, where he got his cargo, and who is
his consignee ; he then gives him a printed copy of the port regulations,
asks for the general manifest of cargo, and for a list (in any language) of
ship's stores and supplies. The captain signs a declaration of same, and
the papers are taken ashore to the wharf inspector, who transmits them to
the Escribania Maritima. The consignee then presents to the Mesa a
duplicate certificate from his Consul, whereupon the Mesa calculates the
port charges accruing, and these have to be paid into the Treasury*, the
Mesa gives a certificate of such payment to the consignee, who then enters
the vessel in the office of maritime arrivals and sailings, depositing the
ship's papers. Then the consignees or brokers accompany the captain to
enter the ship in form, and the captain identifies the ship's papers. A
document is next drawn up ratifying the manifest, and signed by the
captain, the consignee or broker, and the Customs clerk. The consignee
then makes three copies (in* Spani^) of the manifest of cargo and ship's
stores, the &vii copy on stamp according to the tonnage, the second on a
25 cent, stamp, and the third on common paper. The vessel is next
entered, with, ier tegisti'y, niunj^er, iclass, naftioiiality, name, port,
consignee, and date, which are noted on the three manifests. The first
manifest, with the ship's pap^ts, is sent to theCootaduriii, the secotid to
the Resguardo, and the third to the Alcaidia. fhe vesdd may then begin
to unload, and the consignees to look after their goodb. .
UNLOADIING.
The mate gives to the master of each lightem document (in any language)
specifying the goods delivered, their mark, number, &c., aad getting a
receipt for same: the lighterman presents the <fpapeleta)) at the wharf
«Tesguardo,)) where itis compared with the manifest, after which he makes
out «pfipeletas» for the various deposits to which the goods are to be
forwarded. The Resguardo numbers and signs these papeletas, which are
then transmitted to the Alcaide, to receive such goods. The Alcaide marks
on the «papeletas)) the nam^.o^ the employee who has to receive the goods,
and the deposit where they are to be stored. The employee in question,
on reiceiviog the goods, givfesa receipt for same, and the «papeletas» are
then TetufTued 16 the Alcaidia, and archived.' After the vessel has
discharged all her cargo, the Resgiiardo sends an ofiBcer to compare the list
of ship's 8toi5es as retiuiied. Digitized by Google
CUSTOM-HOrSE KEdULATIONS. 6$
GOODS IN TRAxN SIT.
If after eight days from arrival a vessel has not broken bulk tiie
consignee may request her clearance for another port : this shall be on a
3^5 cent, stamp, and on payment of port dues the Administrator, after the
visit by the Resgnardo, shall return her papers and clear her. The transit
ef goods not discharged may be effected either by «retorno» in the same
vBSsel or by «transbordo)> to another. Duplicate petitions on 25 cent,
stamps must be made, setting forth the name of the importing vessel and
that of transhipment, the destination of the latter, the marks, contents, and
qualities of the goods ; ^and these must be presented to the Direct Despatch
Gfflce of the Contaduria >vithin t^elv^ days after the ship's arrival. A term
of forty days is aUoweld ^ben the maliifest expresses that the goods are for
traiisbipment to a c^rtaiu destination: the same term is^aliowed for
lumber, salt, andicoal. In like manner goods solicited for direct despatch
within eight days from the ship's arrival may be transhipped jwlthin forty days
in the manner already stated.
. '1 ■■ ■ i ' ' •
. , DIRECT DESPATCH.
The consignee has to draw up four dolciuments : ' si mefnff est oh 25 cent,
stamp, a copy of bill of lading on 25 'cent: ^tanip, arid copies of each of the
foregoing on common paper. In all must be specified the mark and number
of each parcel, specifying its contents, quality, quantity, &c., either in
local or foreign measurement, but the consignee may put if he wish
€<contents unknown,)) aiid the papers are then sent to the Contaduria, the
consigiiee either paying the duties cash, or giving the usual guarantee.
The proper clerk then puts wdespAchesew on the manifests, and«confbrme)>
on the bill of lading, as also on the copies. If the consignee has put
€(contents unknown)^ the inspector proceeds to open the case and note
down its contents. The consignee presents the document at the Conta-
duria, the clerk stamps same, and specifies the employee who is to despatch
the goods. This document must next be counter-slgu6d by the proper
Vista, who sends it to the warehouseman, retaining the manifest for
comparison. The warehouseman has to weigh the goods or measure them.
The Vista assesses them at the valuation in the tariff, and, if not expressed
therein, he puts his own valuation. In case the importer resist the
valuation, and that the Vista d6 not alteif it within three days, the Custom-
house shall be obliged to take the goods at such valuation. If the goods be
damaged they must be sold by auction within fifteen days, and th^uties
64 9^SX0M-HQUSE.
assessed at 23 per cent, under the auctioneer's returns. In all cases of
disagreement between the merchant and the Vista it shall be decided bj
the Tairiff Ctoramittee, from wbosi^ decree there is lao appeal for goods
specified in the tariff. The Vista then writes <rdespachado» on the copy,
and the manifest is sent to the Gontaduria. The Alcaidia clears the goods,
. and archives said copy. In comestibles and liquors the Vista often puts
<<despachado9 before measuring them, but the measurement is afterwards
noted. The Gontaduria recovers, the duties cash, when not amounting to
$50 s., or if there be no bail. All duties payable cash must be satisfied
within five d^ys from notification. The consignee ii^ paying the duties
must take a memorandum of their amount from the Gontaduria to the
Tesoreria, which latter office gives a receipt in due form. The Gontaduria
draws bills at four months, which are presented to the constgneeQ, and
must be accepted, within five days, whereupon they are sent in to the
Piational Treasury. Extra duties mu^t be paid cash, in precisely the 3ame
ivfay as those not amounting to $50 s.
passengers' luggage Aim SPEQE.
Luggage, parcels, and samples may be landed at the passengers' wharf
irithout permit, ai^d before tlje vessel is registered for unloading. . The
Besgoardo examines the luggage and shows it to the Vista, who despatches
it if the yalue be under $10 s; If the value be over SlOs., and under
;^50s., the Vista calculates the duties and a stamp of 25 cents., which must
))e paid to Jive Inspector of the,Res^uardo before lettiqg the goods pass.
If the value >e over $50 s. the Besguardo sends the parcel with a papeleta
to the Gustoi^-house, where the Alcaidia takes charge of same. Specie
may also b^ despatched by. the Resguardo^ Avithout waiting for the ship to
be f<Mrmally entered ; but in case the consignee do not wish to run the risk
of opening the parcel^ the Resguardo seals the same, telling the consignee
. tl^a^ be must produce it in the same , condition within forty-eight hours at
the Tesoreria under, pain of $500. The Treasury counts it and de(ivers it
at once to the owner.
W^QPS FOE PEPOSIT.
Permits for storing goods are made on a 25 cent, duplicate stamp, the
. .merchant declaripg the name and port of the ship, the marks, number, and
contents of the packages^ and presenting same at the Gontaduria within
weight days of the ship's arrival : passing this term there is .^^f^e of 2 per^|g
EXPORT TRAFFIC. 65
cent, ad valorem. Ii^ the coj^y bill of lading the merchant may put <ccoutents
unknown.)) . The goods are afterwards at the merchant's disposal, to be
sold or transhipped, either the whole or in part, and if undisposed of
after two years tlie storage may be renewed: in form. In despatching
bonded goods the form is similar to that u^ed for ((direct despatch:^) there
•must be a manifest on a 25 cent stamp, and two copies on plain paper.
Petitions for ((transbordo)) or ((retoruow of goods not landed must be made
within forty days of the ship's arrival. Petitions for re-shipment of
goods in transit must be made on three papers for sailing ships, and four for
steamers, two of them with 25 cent stamp, expressing the ship's name,
date of arrival, nature of goods, &c. Goods that have lain two years
in . deposit can be re-stored at .the expiration of the legal term : the
merchant presents a permit at the Contaduria on a 25 cent stamp, with copy
on common paper, which after receiving the ((conformo) is sent to the
Alcaldia. One of the warehouse inspectors proceeds to the store in
^question and compares the goods : if the store be a private deposit there is
no* warehouse fee, and the Contador puts his «conforn;ie;)) but if it be a
Customs warehouse the merchaW must pay at the Treasury the warehouse
and «eslingage» fees for tiie two years past, getting receipt for same. The
CustbmThouse allows packages to be broken up, provided they be taken to
the ((Deposito de fracciones.)) Two permits are requisite, one on a 25 cent
«tamp, and specifying in what deposit the goods are : the Alcaidia gives the
necessary order to the warehouse inspector, who delivers the goods to two
Ayqdantes and returns receipt for same, with the ((conforme,)) to the
Contaduria: the goods so broken up are then despatched either for the
market or transhipment, in the same manner as if whole packages.
Merchants may also cut off a sample, on condition of restoring same when
clearing the article : a permit is requisite on a 25 cent stamp, expressing
the usual particulars and the quantity required for a sample for the
Contaduria and Alcaidia despatch. •
EXPORT TRAFFIC.
When a vessel wishes to load for foreign parts, the consignee, broker,
xiaptain, or other person, makes a petition to the Administrator for
permission to be placed on the berth, expressing the name, class^
nationality and destination. The stamp is determined by the ship's
tonnage. The petition is lodged at the «Mesa de despacho directo» in the
Contaduria, for the vessel to be entered ; it is then sent^to th^ Secretariat
66 CUSTOM-HOUSE.
which in turn passes it to the Resguardo, and finally it is sent to the office
of clearances or «salidas ^ ultramar.» The vessel is then ready to receive
cargo. In shipping produce that is subject to export duties the shipper
must present two permits on 25 cent ^amps, specifying the ship's name,
&c., and the produce to be shipped, as also the point of shipment. The ^
<(Mesa de Salidas» gives a ticket for such shipment. If the shipment be
made from the old or new Custom-house, the «boleto» must be shewn to
the Resguardo, and the barraquero or shipper sends off each cart with a
«papeleta)) expressing the ship's name, the lighter, the nature of goods,
and the shipper: this ((papeletan is given to the Resguardo. The lighter
being fully laden proceeds to the ship, and thus each lighter goes till all
the cargo is shipped. If the goods are to be shipped from Barracas the
Resguardo sends an official to weigh or count them at the barraca in the
act of shipment. The barraquero gives the lighterman a wpapeletaw of
the goods shipped, with the names of the shipper, the lighter, and the
vessel receiving; this «papeleta» is countersigned by the official and
afterwards presented at the Resguardo, which gives the lighterman a
wpasavanto)) to the Boca. Here the second Resguardo gives another to the
third Resguardo, situate at the mouth of the Riachuelo. If the last has
any suspicion of smuggling it sends an official to superintend the loading.
When the shipment is made from the Boca the same formalities are
observed, As soon as all the cargo is shipped the Resguardo returns the
«boletO)) to the shipper, who takes it to the Contaduria and Liquidacion for
payment of the export duties. The «Mesa de salidas» having assessed the
amount of these, the shipper then goes to the Tesoreria and pajs same,
getting a receipt for the amount. If the shipper has any ccboletos de
transito)) these are deducted from the duties. In the event of shipping
goods that are duty-free the same formalities are gone through as already
expressed, except as rMards duties.
SHIPMENT FN TRAIfSIT.
When a merchant has obtained a permit of «re-embarco)) in the manner
already explained, he takes it to the Alcaidia, to be stamped, &c. Either
of the transit offices, in the old or new Custom-house, receives the permit
after which the Resguardo is notified, that it may oversee the transhipment
and then endorse the permit, previous to the inspector return'mg it to the
merchant. If the shipment takes place at the Boca the Resguardo
superintends the operation and endorses the permit <(embarcado.» The
GLEARIflG VESSELS. 67
goods being re-embarked the merchant presents the permit at the
Contdduria, which assesses the warehouse fees to he paid at the Tesoreria,
the latter giving receipt for same in due form.
RE-EXPORTATIOIf OF GOODS.
Goods that have been duly cleared and have paid duties may be again
shipped for foreign ports in this manner : two permits for exportation are
presented to the «Mesa de salidasw on a 25 cent stamp, with the usual
particulars and specifying that the goods have already paid duty; the
permit is then sent to the Besguardo, who oversees the shipment.
CLEARING VESSELS FOR ABROAD.
When a vessel has taken in all her cargo the consignee gives on oath a
full return of same, according to the bills of lading, to the (cMesa de
salidas,» which sends him to the <Kdespacho directo»; the latter o£Bce
compares the papers, to see if the vessel has discharged all the cargo
expressed in her manifest on arrival in port. But if it happen that there
are goods not cleared by the consignees, the office will require a certificate
fromtiie Alcaidia that such goods are in deposit, before clearing the vessel.
These formalities being fulfilled, the merchafit presents to the Oficina de
Eutradas a petition with same stamp as that for breaking bulk, begging
that fhe vessel may be cleared for such or such port. This permit is
granted with the note (after payment of duties), and the permit is sent to
the Mesa de Salidas. The merchant next presents a Guia on $3 stamp,
expressing ship's name, class, ifec, and a. full manifest of all her cargo:
the manifest is countersigned by the Administrador and Contador, and then
given to the captain.
captain's and health papers.
Before clearing a vessel the Mesa de Salidas shall calculate from the
consular papers the amount of port-dues, including the health-paper, which
the captain shall pay at the Tesoreria, in the same manner as the entrance
dues on arrival. The Mesa then advises the consul by certificate that the
vessel is duly cleared, and notifies the Capitania in like manner, ^he^
. S2
68 CUSTOM-HOUSE.
captain having procured the certificates for his Consul and the Gapitania.
also the ship's manifest and health patent, he proceeds to the Consulate for
his navigation papers, lodged there on arrival : after this he goes to the
Consul of the country of his destination, to have his papers wviseed,)) then
to the Capitania to pay light dues, and finally to the Resguardo on the
mole to have his manifest compared with the «papeletas)) given on
shipment of produce. When once cleared the vessel can do no operation
further than to receive luggage, which merely passes inspection on the
mole. For provisions, the captain, consignee, or broker, may at any time
draw up a permit on a 25 cent stamp, and present it the Mesa de Salidas,
which at once grants same, Subject to the surveillance of the Resguardo.
(The Customs-law proper for the year will be found in Section A).
Digitized by
Google
BOLSA AHD BATIKS. 69
CHAP, yii.
BOLSA, BANKS, AND PUBLIC COMPANIES.
THE BOLSA DE COMERCIO.
TflE Balsa is a handsome building, in the best part of the city, being situate
in Calle San Martin, near the corner of Cangallo. The hall is spacious,
lofty^ and well ventilated, with a ring in the centre, around which the
brokers assemble whefa transacting business. The brokers meet at 1 1 a.m. ,
and yoil will hear th^m in a loud voice offering to' buy or sell Government
bonds, gas shares, &c., till 2 p.m., when the merchants meet. The
attendance on 'Change often numbers several hundred persons, and the
hall can scarcely accommodate all the members. Groups of English and
Germans mky be seen in the wing on the left, French and Italians on the
right, and a general mixture of these and other nations indiscriminately
through the hall. Half a dozen languages are currently spoken on all sides,
the most general being English and Spanish. The large black board on the
right gives the various quotations of stock and transactions of the day ; on
the opposite side is another board, with quotations of produce: the
liquidation room and reading room are at the further end of the hall.
Upstairs there is a board room, which occupies the whole front of the
building, and a committee room adjoins, which is sometimes used for
meetings, also the manager's oiBces. The busiest hour on 'Change is about
2.30 P.M., and strangers can get a visitor's ticket through any of the
members. In the time of Bosas there was no Bolsa.but the merchants and
probers used to have a rendezvous at one or other private oiBce. About
70 BANKS AlfD COMPAIflES.
twenty years ago Ihere was a «Gamuati» at the house now occupied by
Manigot the hatter, in Galle Florida ; this is a Guaraui word signifying a
beehive, and the name was still applied to the various points of re-union,
as circumstances obliged a change of locality from time to time. The
house which is now the Tribuna office was expressly taken for the purpose,
and a kind of society established, till put down by the police agents of
Bosas. A French broker named Loiseau took a house next the public baths
in Calle Piedad and revived the association : subsequently it removed to
Calle Victoria, and then to Calle Piedad, next door to the Cafe de Suizos,
where it was again put down by the police. A few days after the fall of
Bosas (1852) the ((Camuati» again assembled, in a store belonging to Mr.
Armstrong , near the corner of Piedad and Beconquista. It was transferred
to Haedo's house in Calle San Martin, and on the 10th July, 1854, a regular
Bolsa was es|tablished, at a meeting of 118 merchants and brokers in the
hall of the Tribunal of, Commerce. A committee was Aramedof Messrs.
Llavallql, Gowland, Moreno, Monasterio, Pico, Biedma, Bornefield, Casares,
Martinez de Hoz, Lynch, Serna, and Sorondo, who took the house where
Mr. Hart's office now is, and here the Bolsa was located for some years. In'
1860 it was resolved to build a new Bolsa, and a joint-stock company was
formed, with a capital of $1,380,000, in shares of $1,000 each: the
building was completed in a year and a- half, and inaugurated with great
pomp by General Mitre, in February 1862. The subscription is $50 a
month, and the annual profits are distributed thus i. 90 per cent, to the
shareholders, 10 per cent, to the members in general. The institution has
been so successful that the shares are at a high premium and difficult to be
obtained: the annual dividends are 12 or 15 per cent. No one can become
a member unless resident over twelve months in the country and engaged
in commercial pursuits, besides being recommended by a merchant.
Brokers must have two recommendations. Consuls are admitted as
honorary members. Ship captains are admitted free.
THE PROVINCIAL BiHK.
The Casa de Moncda^ or Provincial Bank, 29 Calle San Martin, was
founded on January 15th 1822 by a meeting of foreign and native
merchants, presided over by the Finance Minister Don Manuel Garcia, its
first operations being merely as a discount bank. In 1826 it was converted
into a national bank, under the title «Banco de las ProvinciAs Unidas:»
this in turn made way for the Casa de Moneda, in 1836, and as the currency^ IC
PROVIIfCIAL DANK. 71
had been frequently tampered with in the interim, by successiye emissions^
the value of the paper dollar fell, from 4 shillings, as low as siiipence.
In 1826 the circulating medium amounted to $2,694,856, the exchange
being quoted in February of that year at $18 to the doubloon, or about.
44 pence to the dollar. In October 1829 the rat? was 108 to the doubloon,
or 7^ pence to the dollar, and from this time the currency never recovered
itself; when Rosas reformed tlie bank in 1836 the circulation amounted
to 15J millions, the rate being 122 to the doubloon. But the subsequent
depreciation of the currency was rapid and ruinous; many people suddenly
lost large fortunes, so violent were the fluctuations in even one day. The
emissions of 1837-39 amounted to 24,000,000, and in November of the
latter year the currency stood at $300, leaving the paper dollar worth 2Jd.
But it had not yet touched «bathos,)) for in the following year (1840) Rosas
emitted 12,000,000 and the luckless paper dollar fell to IJ pence, or 570
to the doubloon. Nevertheless a recuperative period ensued, during a
term of six years without any fresh emission ; in 1844 the dollar had risen
as high as 4 pence, or 200 to the doubloon, and continued so till the close
of J 845. In January 1846 Rosas emitted 75,000,000, and the currency
fell considerably below 2 pence: the circulation now amounted to
126,000,000. After the fell of Rosas the emissions grew more frequent,
viz, two in 1852, and five in the year following, in all 91,000,000. Then
was invented the amortization by burning, 7,250,000 were burned in 1853 ,
after this the paper dollar improved to 2^ pence, at which figure it was
almost stationary for a long time. War with General Urquiza ensued in
1859, and an emission of 85,000,000 took place, the dollar again falling to
2 pence. A second civil war broke out in 1861, which called for
J 00,000,000 more, and further depreciated the currency, till it was judged
expedient to pass a law declaring any future emission illegal. At the same
time the* burning was resorted to, monthly, and 55,000,000 were thus
consumed, when another law was made to stop the same, September 9th,
1863. At the beginning of 1864 the circulation amounted to 340,000,000,
and in the absence of wars or fresh emissions the money-market sustained
a long and painful crisis from enormous speculation. The fluctuations
were ruinous to the honest hard-workiqg tradesmen, and also affected the
price of staple articles of produce. A great outcry was made, various
schemes were proposed for a fixed currency, and laws were passed under
Governor Saavedra's administration which proved illusory towards bringing
any remedy. In 1866 the Alsina cabinet boldly established an Oficina de
Cambios, where gold and paper were freely given at 25 apespsw to the
hard dollar : notwithstanding all manner of evil predictions, ^^^W^^^^^y
igi ize y ^
72 BJLNKS kVD gompahies.
has remained ever since at this fixed valuation of 2 pence to the paper
dollar, and the benefit to legitimate trade has been incalculable : the cit j
merchants presented Governor Adolfo Alsina and Kis Finance Minister,
Don Mariano Varela, with a handsome gold medal. The last reform of the
bank constiti^rtion was in 1854, when it was denominated (cBanco y Casa de
Moneda de Buenos Ayres,)) and many wholesome improvements were
instituted by the advice of Dr. Velez Sarsfield. This distinguished
statesman is regarded almost as the founder of the bank, and his full
length portrait is seen in the board-room. Tlie board is composed of
sixteen merchants, one-half foreigners, annua|ly named by the Provincial
Government. The directors sit daily for the transaction of business. The
old bank-notes of the time of Rosas had the motto aLong live the Restorer
of the laws ! Death to the foul and savage Unitarios ! :» these, are very rare
now. The currency of 1854, printed in London, had emblematic devices
of commerce and industry ; the engraving was good, but the paper inferior.
In 1864 machinery was procured from England and a new issue made, the
paper being so bad as to crumble away in a few days, and offering every
facility for forgery. The first bank forgeries in Rosas's time were rudely
executed, a sample being still kept in the Museum, and the delinquent was
shot. In late years forging bank-notes has unfortunately become a constant
practise, and a considerable proportion of the currency is forged, so
cleverly as frequently to escape detection. The new notes, however, printed
by the New York Biank-note Co. in 1868, are of very superior quality, and
henceforward forgery will be extremely difficult. The ordinary currency
consists of notes of $1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, and 5,000,
thus ranging from 2 pence to £40 : besides these tiiere are specie-notes of
various values to a high amount. The bank has great fiscal privileges, and
in bankrupt cases enjoys a priority over all other creditors. No other bank
in Buenos Ayres hps right of issufe. Deposits for the law-courts and public
departments gain no interest : moneys belonging to minors are ordered ta
be lodged here, bnt gain the usual interest. The Western Railway owes
$59,000,000 to the bank, for the sections from Moreno to Ghascoiiius.
During the Paraguofyan war the Government obtained great facilities in the
negotiation of public funds emitted for the purpose, on the guarantee of
extra duties. The bank profits are large, and go to increase its capital.
The Directors receive no salary. Among the improvements of recent years
have been the opening of accounts-current, and the establishment of eight
branches throughout the Province : the first branch, at San Nicolas, was
established in 1863. The bank paper-money is declared a legal tender
throughout the whole Republic. It is proposed to build a new '^^'^^^^A^Ip
igi ize y g
MAUiL BAlfK. 73
rfte at present occupied. The bank regulations are as follows : — ^Deposits
of not less tlian g400m^ and $16s. received. These deposits will not be
entitled to interest if withdrawn before the expiration of sixty days from the
date of such deposit ; after sixty days they will be entitled to interest from
the date of deposit. AH interests not collected shall, at the. end of each
year, be capitalized. All deposits at interest shall be entere,d in a book
-which the bank will deliver to the depositors, in which all payments of
interest and capital shall be entered, and all interest shall be payable after
the first of the month or on taking out the deposit. The bank discounts bills
"With two signatures having from seventy to ninety days to run ; it also
discounts mercantile bills of from seventy days to six months, on condition
that at maturity they are paid in full. The bank draws at sight upon the
following branches: — ^Dolores, San Kicolas, Lobos, Salto, Chivilcoy,
Mercedes, Baradero, and Azul. The bank pajs commission to brokers on
the first discounting of bills and promissory notes. The bank lends to
artizans and operatives sums of from $3,000 to $20,000, taking
as security a document with 'any well-known signature. Credits in account
current are opened on the following terms : — 1st. The bank opens accounts
cur;rent for commercial houses. 2nd. The security to be either personal
or with documentary values. 3rd. In each case the bank shall fix the
amount of credit. 4th. The Directory shall from time to time arrange the
interest chargable pro and contra. 5th. Each account shall be liquidated
every sixty days. 6th. A pass-book shall be given to parlies opening
accounts current, for entry of cheques and sums deposited. Business hours
from 10a.m. to 4p.m.
THE MAITA^AI^.
The Maud Bank was established in 1858, under the management of Mr.
William Leslie, in an office in Calle Reconquista. The business increased
rapidly to such an extent that it was necessary in January 1861, to remove
to the present spacious premises in Calle Cangallo, Nos. lOf and 103,
where it continues to do a large business, the presefat manager being Seflor
Amorins. For some years it was the only private bank in the country, and
lent great assistance in accounts current to traders, besides aiding all
manner of industrial enterprises, such as the Salado navigation, San Juan
mines, &c. Baron Maud has various branch banks throughout the Republic,
■which have the right of emission, although the bank in puenos Ayres has
not. This was the first institution that opened a savings' bank in the
74 BANKS AKD COMPANIES.
Argentine Republic, to receive small sums at interest from the working
classes. The clerks speak English, French, Portuguese, Spanish, &c.
Foreigners about to travel up the Uruguay, through Entre Bios and the
Banda Oriental, will find it convenient to provide themselves with a letter
of credit from the Maua Bank of Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, as, owing to
its numerous branches in the different towns, drafts on this bank are
everywhere received the same as cash : the chief circulating medium at all
the saladeros and estancias on the Uruguay is Maud bank paper. The
Maud Bank is the largest real' estate holder in the Biver Plate, owning
immense estates on either side of th^ Uruguay, as also large properties in
and about Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. Unlike the London and River
Plate Bank, the head establishment of the Maud Bank is in Bio Janeyro,
whilst the bank here is but a branch. The banking-office, in Calle
Cangallo, which the bank holds in fee, is one of the finest buildings in this
city, built by a wealthy Paraguayan gentleman in 1861, who sold it to the
Baron Maua in ! 866. The close proximity of the bank to the Bolsa renders
it a most convenient establishment for the «almaceneros)> and dealers, who
have so steadily supported this bank.* Mr. Souza, the deputy-manager,
speaks English fluently, and is most attentive to strangers. Mr. White is the
head book-keeper. The bank regulations are as follows: — 1st. Bills and
obligations with good signatures are discounted on conventional terms*
2nd. Money is advanced on mercantile and other securities, approved of by
the Manager. 3rd. Accounts current are opened with mercantile or other
parties who may prefer depositing endorsed and transferable securities,
against which they may draw up to an amount previously convened, under
conditions established for such class of operations. 4th. Money is received
in account current, bearing interest from day of deposit, which is
accumulated in favor of the parties every three months, the depositors
being allowed to draw at any time, by means of cheques, part or the full
amount at their wish, save when the quantity exceeds 300 doubloons or
$100,000 n^fe., in which case forty-eight hours' previous notice is required
to be given at the treasury of the bank. 5th. Bills or letters of credit are
drawn and taken on Montevideo, Rosario, Santa F6, Salto (Banda Oriental),
Paysandii, Rio Janeyro, and other places in Brazil, England, and France, as
also on other places, of which notice will be given hereafter The estab-
lishment is always open from 10 a.m. till 3 p.m. The Savings' Bank, at
No. 103 Calle Cangallo, is open from 9 a.m. till 3 p.m. every day, for the
reception of the savings of the working classes, Sundays and holidays
excepted. The bank will deliver to each depositor a pass-book, in which
will be entered the amount deposited and withdrawn. The depositor is
LONDON AND BIVER PLATE BANK. 75
permitted at any time to withdraw the whole or part of the sum deposited ;
in the former case the interest will be calculated up to date. 1st. The
bank receires at interest any sum from $25 nifc. 2nd. The interest allowed
is 6 per cent, per annum, which is liquidated every six months. 3rd. The
depositors can at any time withdraw the whole or part of the money deposited.
4th. Once the money deposited exceeds $2.5^00 ii^fc., or $1,000 s., the
depositor, if he wishes, can open an account current, according to the rules
established by the bank. The MauA Bank, as well asthe London and River
Plate Bank, subscribes liberally to all local charities.
THE ENGLISH BANK.
The London and River Plate Bank, established on 1st January, 1863, was
first situate in the hcpse of Seilor Elortondo, 80 Calle Piedad, and now
occupies the fine new building at the corner of Piedad and Beconquista.
The bank was started by a number of London merchants, many of whom
had some connection with the River Plate, the authorised capital being
£2,000,000 sterling, in £40 shares, subscribed capital £1,000,000, and
paid up capital £600,000 : the management was entrusted to Mr. J. H.
Green, a merchant of many years standing here ; and the eminent financier,
Don Norberto Riestra, was named Consulting Director. The success of the
bank was very decided from the outset, and it soon began to nUe exchange
on England. The introduction of so large an amount of English gold had,
aFTliFtime, a most healthy, effect on our money market, and since that
period all' other kinds of coin have almost disappeared, while the English
sovereign, previously unknown, has now become the current specie of the
c6untry. English habits of business have also gained strength in our
cosmopolitan trading community, and the bank has insensibly proved
h powerful medium in the industrial reformation which is being happily
worked out among us. The staff of clerks quickly rose from three to a
dozen, and now numbers thirty, showing how the business of the establish-
ment has grown in six years, while branches have also been established at
Bosario and Cordoba, besides the house in Montevideo, which last was
founded simultaneously with that of Buenos Ayres. During the Paraguayan
war the bauk lent valuable aid to the National Government, by finding funds
and making advances when circumstances rendered such negotiations more
of a f? iendly favor than a business transaction. Nevertheless, the bank
has not yet been able to obtain a right of issue in Buenos Ayres, as this j
privilege depends on the Provincial Government, which gives the Stat^l^^
76 BANKS AST) COMPAHIKS.
bftnk a monopoly in this regard. In 1866, a panic having arisen among the
i??orking classes who had deposits in tlie Provincial, (or State) Bank, Mr,
Green came forward promptly to its support, as did also the MauA Bank and
the leading capitalists of the city. Mr. Riestra resigned his post as Director
in 1865, being appointed to go to London to negotiate the loan. During
some critical monetary periods the bank has passed safely and honorably,
and the Bosario branch has been equally successful : the Cordoba branch
does little as yet. In 1866 new shares, £20 each, wereemittedin London,
raising the subscribed capital to £1,500,000, and the reserve fund in 1868
amounted to £145,000. The annual dividends from the commencement
have ranged between 10 and 15 per cent., and the shares are always at a
good premium. The premises first taken in Calle Piedad were found
insuflScient in 186i, and the bank purcliased the corner building of Calles
Florida and Cangallo ; but this was afterwards sold at a profit, it being
resolved to erect a proper bank at the corner* f Calles Piedad and
Reconquista. This handsome structure is one of the ornaments of our city,
and in the best business locality. It was commenced in January 1867, and
is now completed ; Mr. Hunt of this city was the architect, and had great
success in the style of architecture chosen, which is of the Roman-Corinthian
order. The roof came out from England, and is a very fine piece of
workmanship, extremely light, and at the same time of great strength.
Over the principal doorway is placed a clock, by Frodsham of London^
which, besides adding to the finish of the building, is of great use in that
part of the city, where the traffic is large. The grand hall is 90 feet long
by 45 feet broad, and the celliiig is 42 feet high, embracing the entire
height of the building: the flooring of the hall is composed of Winton's
patent tiles. Biesides the grand hall there are manager's rooms, consultiog
and waiting rooms, clerts' luncheon and dressing rooms, and porters^
quartets. Every possible modern impfrovemerit has been introduced in
fitting up the establishment. The furnishings are by Rough and Son, of
St. Paul's Churchyard, and are of the best description, constructed on the
most improved plans, with everything conducive to facilitate the despatch
of busine'ss. The cashier's counter, for paying and receiving money, has a
sweep of 60ft. in length. The vaults underneath are perhaps one of the
most interesting featui*es in the building ; a hydraulic lift of considerable
power lowers the bullion down with a very easy motion. The room is 48ft.
in length by 12 ft. in width, divided into three separate compartments by
strong iron bars ; each compartment is laid off with marble shelving, and
they are capable of accommodating, besides the treasure of the bank, any
quantity of valuables that may be placed there for safe custody. The
^G£lf:^^lfE JIAHK. 77
upper portion of the liack part of the building contains a verj cpmfortable
dwelliug-house, occupied by the principal officials. The bank reg^ulations
are as follows : — Current accounts opene/i with parties properly introduced,
and interest allowed on credit balances. Customers have the advantage of
drawing cheques, of having approved bills discounted, of obtaining loans
upon negotiable securities, of depositing bills, coupons, &c., for collection,
and of lodging with the bank valuable property in the fu'e-proof strong
rooms for safe custody. Deposit Accounts — Deposits received from
tlie public generally — either for fixed periods or subject to seven or
thirty days notice of withdrawal — interest on which is regulated by the
market value of mouej, the bank notifying any change in the rate by
advertisement in the principal daily papers. Bills of Exchange issued on
the following places: — London, Dublin, Liverpool, Paris, Antwerp,
Hamburg, Genoa, Rio de Janeyro, Montevideo, Rosarip, Cordoba, and all
branches of the National Bank of Scotland. Business hours, 10 a.m. to
3.30 P.M. every day. -
THE argeatihe and other banks.
Tlie Argentine Bank was established in 1867, through, the exertions of
Messrs. Cullen, O'Shee, Lanuz, Iturraspe and other influential merchants
and capitalists. It was founded on the basis of the Rosario Bank, a
flourishing institution with some branches in Entre-Rios. The capital wag
fixed at $2,000,000, in shares of $100 (£20) each, of which $60 were
called up, and the bank commenced a good and lucrative business under the
management of Senor Marc6 del Pont ; the dividend declared for the last half
year (1868) was at the rate of 22 per cent, per annum. The premises are
situate next door to the* Provincial Bank, in a house belonging to Judge
Medina, which had previously been fitted up as a small theatre. In the
first aUotment of the city by Don Juan de Garay, on June 1 1th, 1580, this
site is marked No. 7, and was given to an adventurer named Estevan Alegre.
The counting-house and savings-bank are on either sides of the entrance,
and the manager's office forms the fourth side of the cpurt-yard. The
business and regulations of the bank are similar to those already noted.
The branches at Cordoba and Rosario happily escaped uninjured during the
convulsions of 1866-68. There are also branches at Santa F6, Parand,
Concordia, and Gualeguay ; the notes of the bank are convertible at all
these branches. The currency is in two kinds of paper, viz. : Bolivian
dollars, and patacons or Mexican dollars. Most of the shareholders arCj
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78 hkUKS AlfD COMPAKIES.
V
Argentines, but there are also some Englishmen and other foreigners
holding a large number of shares. Office hours, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The Wanklyn Bank is a private establishment greatly patronized by the
English and American houses. Mr. Frederick Wanklyn, the head of the
firm, is an Englishman of excellent connection and varied experience. A
number of English estaucieros keep accounts with this bank. The rates of
interest chai*ged and allowed are the same as at the other banks. Mr.
Alfred Lumb, son of Mr. Edward Lumb, one of the oldest residents in
Buenos Ayres, is partner and second manager of the concern. The banking
offices are alongside the Bolsa in Calle San Martin, and occupy a part of the
ground floor of Mr. Lumb's magnificent house, kno^n as the Universelle.
Wanklyn's bank is well known in the camp, as it does a very large business
in small drafts on Ireland, being connected with the National Bank of
Ireland. Wanklyn and Co. are also connected with the National Bank,
London; Mallet Bros. & Co., Paris; Granet Brown & Co., Genoa; Vidal
Cuadras & Co., Barcelona; Menendez & Barcena, Vigo; E. F. Davison
& Co., New York ; and give drafts for large and small amounts on all
the above.
Harfs Bank. — This is also a private English bank, of high credit and
repute. Mr. Henry Hart is one of the best known English bankers in
Buenos Ayres, and does a very extensive banking business with the English
and German importers and barraqaeros. Mr. Hart is considered one of
th^ best judges of city paper. The banking offices are in Calle San Martin^
the former site of the Bolsa.
Carabassa^s Bank^ a private native bank, which does an immense discount
business, and has some of the best English and American accounts current
in Buenos Ayres. Seflor Carabassa is an affable polished Spaniard, stands,
particularly well with foreign merchants, and is the private banker of most
of the native capitalists. The new banking premises have been concluded in
the present year, and combine elegance with convenience ; they are situate
in Calle Cangallo. The building is expressly constructed for the bank.
The site was bought at auction in 1867 for $85O,OO0ni^.
Caprile and Picasso ^ Italian bankers, who do a considerable business in
small drafts on Genoa.
SOGIEDAD RURAL AJIGENTIIVA.
The Argentine Rural Society.— In 1858 the first effort was made towards
fostering industrial interests among the rural populatio^,.]b|^^n(ei^ibition
RURAL SOCIETY. 79
got ap at Palermo by Messrs. Posadas, Sarmiento, Javier, John Clark, and
Edward Olivera. The campaigns of Cepeda and Pavon followed, and public
attention was distracted from the arts of peace. In May, 1866, Messrs.
Martinez de Hoz, Richard Newton, and Olivera projected the establishment
of a Farmers^ Association, and on the 16th August of same year the Sociedad
Rural Argentina was formally inaugurated, with Messrs. Martinez de Hoz
and Newton as president and vice, the rest of the board comprising Messrs.
Viton, Olitrera, Temperley, Pereyra, F. Madero, Agtiero, Amadeo, Molina,
M. Casares, Stegmann, and CastaHo : among the otlipr founders of the club
were — ^Messrs. Urioste, Quirno, Emilio Castro, Arana, Yraola, Judge Carril,
Ramos Mejia, Bernal, Cobo, Senillosa, Munilla, Saenz Pefta, Videla Dorna,
E. Torres, Posadas, Alegre, R. Pifleyro, E. Stegmann, Moujan, Rodriguez,
Martinez, Garcia Gonsalez, H. Torres, P. Millan, Bedoya, Fernandez, Galup,
and Lezama. The object of the association was declared under the
following heads: — 1st. To protect rural interests; 2nd. To improve the
pastoral industry ; 3rd. To combine grazing with agriculturq ; 4th. To get
scientific men to study the best method of drainage and irrigation for the
camp; 5th. To ameliorate the condition of the rural inhabitants; 6th. To
acclimatise refined breeds of cattle; 7th. To promote agricultural studies ;
8th. To improve agricultural implements and dwellings ; 9th. To study the
curing of beef for exportation ; 10th. To introduce useful seeds and plants ;
11th. To establish relations with foreign markets; 12th. To study the
economic resources of the country. The society has been productive of
great benefits to the industrial interests of the country, especially in causing
the repeal of oppressive laws or duties. To its efforts are due, among
other acts, the removal of import dues from salt used fcr saladeros, and the
permission to export washed sheepskins at no higher duties than are charged
for the unwashed. Moreover, the society publishes a monthly review
containing important articles on the staple industries of Buenos Ayres,
with valuable information and correspondence from for^eign countries: this
tends in a notable manner to keep alive public attention on such matters.
Subscribers to the association pay $500 m^. entrance ftee, and $50 a month :
there are also honorary or corresponding members, and the society is in
relation with most of the similar associations in tingland, Germany, and the
United States. There are at present 234 active members in Buenos Ayres.
The society was first established in a house next the Post-office, Calle
Bolivar : its present residence is at No. 92 Calle Peru. The reading-room
has a good supply of newspapers, and a library of industrial works in
English^ French, German, &c., including the United States Patent-oflice
Reports,- and other valuable publications: the club-room, billiard-rogp,
80 BANKS ^D COMPANIES.
9kni secretary's apartments are neatly arranged, with portraits of eminent
Argentines and pictures of the leading sheep cccabatLas)) of Germany. There
is a black-board in the hall, to mark the current prices of horned cattle,
sheep, land, &c. The society permits the newly-established Jockey Club
to have the use of its rooms.
The Caja de Credito is a joint-stock discount bank, established in 1865,
under the management of M. Montravel, with a capital of §2^800,000 in
14,000 shares of $200, or £40 each, all paid up. It has given very
profitable results, the annual dividend being usually 15 per cent.
INSURATCCE AND JOINT-STOCK COMPANIES.
The Bienhechora del Plata is a savings-bank, and insurance association,
founded in 1854 by the leading capitalists, foreign and Argentine,' and
specially authorized by the National Government, in decree dated May 7th,
1864. The investments of the compauy are exclusively in Govern^nent
6 per cent. Bonds which are bpught at prices varying from 40 to 50, thus
giving over 12 per cent, per annum. Deposits are received from £1
a year up to any amount, in weekly, monthly, or yearly instalments, and the
profits are liquidated every five years. There are three manners of
subscribing: 1st. With loss of capital by death of insured. 2nd. Without
loss of capital but with loss of interest in such event. 3rd. Subscriptions
in deposit with compound interest. The 1st class of subscribers enjoy
their share of compound interest on the bonds purchased by the Company ;
also a part of the capital forfeited by those of this class who may die ; also
a part of the interest belonging to those who have died. The 2nd class
enjoy compound interest in the 6 per cent Governm.ent bonds; also their
proportion of tjie interest-moneys forfeited by those of this class who have
died. The 3rd class simply gain compound interest on the bonds, for the
profits are capitalized every three months, and new bonds purchased. The
system of insurance is exactly the reverse of what is customary in England.
Thus if a father insure his child for ten or twenty years and that it die in
the interim, everything is lost, unless specially enrolled in the 2nd class.
Meantime there is always the option of withdrawing one's capital and
profits at the expiration of every five years. Of course the largest profits
accrue to the clgss that incurs the risk of forfeiting all by death.
Deparcieux's mortality tables shew an almost incredible profit in such cases,
when the first investment yields 12 per cent, per annum. Thus by
payment of $100, or £20, per annum for a child between the a^es of one j
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11ISURAT(G£ OdMPANtES. 8 (
^nd fifteen, the sum accumulated at the endoftweutjr-five years will be over
j£7,000 and under £8,000 sterling. Piirties insuring between the ages of
15 and 40 will find nearly the same results, but those over 40, if they
survive 25 years, will reap still greater profits. A man of 20, for example,
paying £20 a year, will find himself at 25 worth £200; at 30 £600; at
35, £1,600 ; at 40, £3,400 ; and at 45 he will have £7,400. As regards'
(he 2nd class of subscribers, who do not risk their capital, the profits may
be estimated at one-eighth less than those of the 1st class.* Theoflice of the
Company is at 118 Calle Piedad; manager, Don Francisco F. Moreno.
Among the founders were Messrs.. Arocena, Benites, Cabal, Casares,
Holterhoff, Gandara, Iturraspe, Lumk. Martinez cTe Hoz, Leal, Mir6. Mata,
Ochoa, Tomkinson, and Zumaran. The subscribers number 3,000, more
than half of whom are foreign residents. At the close of 1868 the amount
of subsciribed capital was about £600,000 sterling, and the nominal value
of bonds purchased was almost £200^000. The legal residence of the
Company is in Buenos Ayres, but there are agents in Montevideo andf other -
towns of the River Plate. Bankers — the Provincial Bank of Buenos AyVes.
Covernment-inspector — ^Don Jos6 Maria Cantilo.
The Argentine Marine Insurance Company ^ 1 18 Calle Piedad, was established
in 1859, and under the management of Don Francisco F. Moreno, has given
the most splendid results. The capital is §1,024,000 s., but may be
increased to §2,000,000, in shares of $ 1 ,000, or £200 each. The founders
were Messrs. Armstrong, Casares, Iturraspe, Lezica, Paravicini, Tomkinson,
Lumb, and others, who had their statutes approved by Government in October,
1860. The whole of the stock is held up by forty shareholders, and shares
are very difficult to be obtained. The company insures vessels both for the
rivers and the high seas.
Tilie Estrella Marine and Fire Insurance Company^ 118 Calle Piedad, was
established in October, 1865, its statutes being duly sanctioned, with a
capital of §2,000,000 s. , under the management of Don Francisco F. Moreno.
The comjiatiy insures all manner of properties against fire, at a fixed rate,
and offers the following prizes to fire-engines arriving at a fire : $40 to the
first, $20 to the second, $20 for the first barrel of water, and $4 for each
of five following ; also a reward of $4 to the person wlio first brings to
4;he office news of a fire in any part of the town. The founders of the
<lompany were Messrs. Demarchi,- Ochoa, Lumb, Armstrong, Martinez de
Hoz, Bnstamante, Zumaran, and others. In June 1866 the company obtained
legal permission to make maritime insurance also a branch of their business,
-and no^ they insure vessels for ocean or river traffic.
The Protectora Americanay 21 Calle Las^Piedras, was established in 1866,
T
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82 fiAiiKS jltud companies.
for life insurance at a fixed rate, authorized capital $2,000,000, the
originators of the Company being Dr. Boque Perez, and Messrs. Zumaran^
Belaustegui, Pico, and Merccnaro, and the manager Don Pablo Montravel.
The Company gives policies payable on decease of the insured party, or
pensions for old age, on payment of a premium, yearly, quarterly,,
or monthly.
The River Plate Telegraph Company was established in 1864 (see page 107
of Section A) an^ the cable laid across from Punta Lara to Colonia in
October 1866, the line being inaugurated soon afterwards, The stock is
held up among a few shareholders, and the dividend for 1868 was declared
at 20 per cent. There ig»a great business done between Buenos Ayres and
Montevideo, and since 1868 the telegraph lines of the Northern and
Southern railways have come to form branches. The head-office is at
Montevideo, Calle Las Piedras, and the central station at Buenos Ayres,
Calle Cangallo ; the intermediate stations being Colonia, San Jos6 and
Bosario Colony in Banda Oriental. Messages can alsobe stntto or from
any station on the Northern and Southern railways. Mr. Oldham is the
superintendent and manager : the offices at Montevideo and Buenos Ayres
are open on all week days from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., and on Sundays for an hour
in the morning and another in the evening. For charges, &c. see
advertisement.
The River Plate Credit Mohilier Company has been recently established, the
statutes having been approved by the Governor and Provincial Legislature
on November 6, 1868, with a capital of $12,000,000 in (20,000 shares of
§100, or £20, each. Among the founders of the Company are Blanco del
Valle, Emilio Castro, Agote, Saavedra, Marcenaro, Teofilo Mendez, M.
Casares, Moreno, Adrogu6, Andres Lamas, Aroccna, and Anjel Texo.
Besides ordinary banking transactions the sphere of the Company is to
comprehend loans, railways, immigration, and other public enterprises;
there will be branches at Montevideo, Bio Janeyro, Lisbon, Madrid,
Barcelona, Paris,| Marseilles, Bordeaux, London, Southampton, Liverpool,
and Genoa. The legaljdomicile of the Company is in Buenos Ayres.
The Commercial Rooms, situate at No. 69 Calle Mayo. This is a very old
and useful institution, belonging to Mr. Daniel Maxwell; it possesses the
double advantage of a first-class reading-room and an observatory
furnished with the best telescopes in the Biver Plate. Besides local and
English papers, we find the leading German, French, Spanish and American
journals and magazines. The observatory contains a collection of charts,
signal books, &c., and the windows command an unrivalled view of the
port and shipping. The azotea or roof offers a pleasant promenade. Every
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STEAMBOAT COMPANIES. 83
kind of c#inmercial information for the city is here procured, a slate is
kept with daily piaritime lists, and letters from Montevideo and elsewhere
will be found with last trade reports, on the reading room table. The
subscription is $200 per quarter, but ship-masters, supercargoes, pilots,
naval officers, and several local authorities are admitted gratis. Visitors'
tickets may also be obtained. The entrance to the Rooms is in Calle Mayo,
and there is a staircase leading out on ihe beach. Mr. Maxwell is the best
authority in town on industrial statistics. *
The South American Steam Navigation Company^ 36^ Calle Cuyo, has
steamboat lines on all the rivers, Mr. Williafn Jfatti being the principal
shareholder : • the capital is 300,000 hard dollars, in shares of $ 1 ,000 each,
all paid up. The line is well managed, the steamers are commodious, and
the last dividend was 15 per cent. There are six steamers weekly to
Rosario, two to Corrientes and Paraguay, three to Parand, four to San
Nicolas, one to Zarate and San Pedro, one to Gualeguay, two up the river
Uruguay, and two to Montevideo.
The Rio de la Plata Steam Company^ founded in 1866 by Don Juan Jos6
Mendez and others, despatches a vessel to Paraguay, Corrientes, and
intermediate ports. The Estrella Steamboat Company, founded by Captain
Davies, plies to Rosario and the smaller ports.
There are in Buenos Ayres several other insurance and steatnboat
companies of which we have no particulars. There are also agencies for
Chilian and^ English life assurance companies, and branch-baiks of
establishments that will come to be mentioned in treating of theProvinces.
The agencies of the English and French steamboat lines cannot be included
in this chapter of local institutions.
There are various associations of a mutual and friendly character, such as
the Typographic Society the Spanish Mutual Aid Association, the Cricket
Club, the Oddfellows, the British Clerks, the Philharmonic Society, the
Masonic Fraternity, the Athletic- Club, the Jockey Club, the Italian
Benevolent Society, the St, Vincent de Paul Confraternity, &c.
The British Clerks^ Provident Association was founded by Mr. F. M. Wells
and other mercantile gentlemen on September 1 st, 1 86 1 . Although limited
in number it has been successful in a monetary sense, the annual dividends
ranging from 12 to 18 percent. In March 1868 there were twenty -nine
members, holding 218 shares, which amounted to 35,263 s., and $176,343
•paper, or an aggregate of X2,400 sterling. The society meets at the
British Library. Each share represents a subscription of g2 silver, or
$50m^ ; the association is of especial benefit in giving habits of economy
to younger clerks.
T2
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S4 BA^KS AND COMPANIES.
The Typographic Society provides a sick and burial fund for printers ;
the Spanish and Italian societies support their sick or distressed
countrymen ; the Philharmonic Club gives concerts at the Coliseum : the
Vincent de Paul Society visits and relieves the poor and sick throughout
the city.
The Oddfellows Society numbers about seventy members, and is of a
mutual aid character: the lodge room is situate at No. 96 Independencia.
The members have an annual dinner in the month of March.
The Cricket and Athletic filubs have their grounds at Palermo, where
matches and meetings come off at certain periods. A stand-house and tent
have been erected, and the festivities are sometimes attended by as many
as 5,000 ladies and gentlemen, mostly foreign residents.
The Freemason Lodges are very numerous, comprising Argentine, English,
French and Italian circles. The English lodge gives its annual dinner on
June 24th at the Provence Hotel. In the Museum is preserved a diploma
of a Dublin lodge, called after St. Patrick, and bearing date as far back as
the last century. President Sarmiento, General Mitre, and General
Urquiza are free-masons.
The Jcckeg Club, founded in 1868, for the purpose of promoting in this
country horse-racing, meets at present in the rooms of the Sociedad
Rural, and numbers sixty members. Members of the club only are allowed
to enter and ride horses. The committee i« as follows : — Honorary
President and Vice-President, their Excellencies President Sarmiento and
Vice-President Alsina; Chairman, Don Carlos Casares; Vice-Chairiiian,
H. Tomkinsou, Esq.; Secretary, G. P. Craufurd, Esq.; Treasurer, F.
Plowes, Esq. ; W, Welchman, Esq., Dr. B. Irigoyen, Don H. F. Varela,
Don A. C. Cambaceres, Don E. Oldendorff. The first meeting was held at
Randall's, near the Jeppener Station of the Southern Railway, on the 8lh
and 0th of September, 1868. The Provincial Government gave a prize
silver cup, value $5,000, which was won by H. Torakinson, Esq., with
Gauchito beating Old Warden and Cochin China, belonging respectively to
W. Welchman, Esq., and W. M^Clymont, Esq. It is intended to hold for
the present two meetings annually in Belgrano, one in the autumn
and another in the spring. But as soon as the funds of the Club
will permit the necessary outlay, a piece of ground will be pvrchased '
in one of the suburbs of the cit; with the intention of forming a
race-course with grand stand and pleasure grounds for the use of the
members and their families.
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THE SUBURBS. 85
CHAP. yiii.
THE SUBURBS.
There are three principal suburbs^ \iz., Belgrano, Flores, andBarracas :
the first two are fashioaable putlets much frequented in the summer
months; the last-named is an industrial entrepot situated on the Biachuelo.
AH three are connected by rail with the city, and boast numerous
beautiful quintas.
BELfiRAliO.
This charming town is two leagues distant from the city by the Northern
Railway, and Has become in a few years one of. the prettiest places in the
Biver Plate. It was foun^^ed in 1854 by Don Santiago Tobal, during the
administration of Governor Alslna, and called fitter a distinguished
Argentine General who fought in the War of Tndi^pendence. The situation
is pleasant, on a higjh ground about a mile ifrom the river ; the number of
quintas belonging to the leading families of the city is verj considerable,
those of Messrs. Alsina, Aojorins, Guerin, Matti, Plowes, Esteves Se^i
Arriola, Agrelo,, Bosch, 5|erger, Calvo, Costa, Dqmot, Antigues, Arzeno,
Androguez, Elias, jfusoni^ Gowland, Fraucischelli, Hartenfels, Itur^aspe,
Mir6, Newton, Oliver, Pelvilain, Piapgio, Bavier, Solanet, Saavedra,
Haycroft, Llambi, Benn, James Brown, Wells, Boss), Lamas, , &c.,
being among ^he most remarkable. . On the hill oyerlopking tfie
railway is a ta^steful little chapel, in^ front of which are some venerable
86 THE SUBURBS.
Ombiies. This chapel has become too small for. the congregation, and a
large church is being erected in the Plaza. On the east side of the Plaza
is the public school, built in the Grecian style. At the next corner is the
Juzgado. No one is allowed to gallop through the streets of the town.
At the west end is the race-course, where the foreign and Argentine
racing clubs hold their meetings periodically : there is a fine stand house,
and the course is nine furlongs round ; the meetings are always attended
by all the wealth and fashion of fiuenos Ayres. The Rev., Mr. Goodfellow
has an English school in the town, for which the Provincial Government
allows a monthly subsidy of $2,000 ; it was founded in August 1867, and
is under the charge o£ Mr. John T. Thompson: the system of instruction
is that of the United States' schools, and comprises the elements of a
commercial education, science, modern languages, Greek and Latin ; this
school is very useful in the summer months, when so many foreign families
come here for the season. In winter Belgrano is all but deserted, but at
the approach of the hot season, in November, the most extravagant rents
are demanded ; houses which may be bought for £ 1 ,000, commonly fetch
£200 or £300 for the summer months. Watson's hotel, close to the
railway station, is a first-rate English house, good wines and cookery, and
everything very neat. On Sunday mornings parties often come out for
breakfast ; the garden attached to the hotel covers several acres. Adjoining
the station is a croquet ground or promenade ; a band plays here every
Sunday evening. A tramway is projected to connect Belgrano with the
city, running along the barranca; this would give a cheaper mode of
transit than the present railway charge. In summer there are twelve
trains daily to and from Belgrano. The partido of Belgrano comprehends
a number of chacras or farms ; in some we see wheat and vegetables
cultivated on a large scale; in others there are fine breeds of horses and
cattle. This district was formerly included in the partido of Sanlsidro,
but it now has a distinct Municipality, Justice of Peace, and Curate, whose
jurisdiction extends half way to the city, and includes Palermo, once the
residence of Rosas. From a statistical report in 1867 we take the
following figupes : — Belgrano has 63 chacras with an aggregate of 2,000
acres, 230 azotea houses, 150 do. with straw roof, four draperies and
eighteen grocery stores ; the farming stock is not numerous, comprising
only 1,400 hori^ed cattle, 1.420 horses, 200 sheep, and 300 swine; the
population is set down at 2,946, National Guards 280, Alcaldes and police
37 ; the Municipality is composed of six members. According to the
educational returns we find the State school is attended by 78 boys and
89 girls, showing an increase of nearly double the returns of 1864.GoOqIc
PALERMO. 87
« PALERMO.
Thiis place was the residence of Rosas, once surrounded with beautiful
gardens and plantations, but now it is a miserable ruin, the palace falling
to decay, the fences destroyed, the timber cut down, and the whole place a
scene of desolation. During many years Rosas devoted much attention to
the grounds, with the view of making Palermo the finest residence in South
America : he had a number of men provided with tooth-brushes employed
in keeping the trees free of insects, and the gardens contained the choicest
fruits and flowers. Shady avenues led down to the water^s side ; nothing
was spared that taste and wealth could devise ; the palace itself was a
handsome Moorish structure, with colonnade on all sides ; the apartments
were large, lofty, and richly decorated. Here the tyrant held his court
for many years, tiU the battle of Caseros, 3rd February, 1852, resulted in
his overthrow. General Urquiza established his headquarters in Palermo
on the following day. In 1856 Seflor Posadas got up an Agricultural
Exhibition here, but the hatred to the name of Rosas seems to have
prevented any efforts towards keeping the place^ from ruin. So late as
1859 the principal avenue, with its lofty rows of trees, was iAtact. In
1862 Mr. Paris proposed to make Elysean Gardens here, but the project fell-
through. It was, however, still the favorite resort of the wealth and
fashion of Buenos Ayres on summer evenings, when the Palermo road was
always thronged with horsemen and gay equipages. Subsequently the
Municipality of Belgrano sold some of the timber for firewood, and the
work of destruction was actively begun : the palace was next let out for a
boarding-school — Escuela de Artes — the proprietor of which built up the
beautiful colonnades with unsightly bricks (not even plastered), and left the
place an ugly wreck, fit only for owls to make their abode in. It is painful
to walk through the ruined halls : the library, parlor, and dining-room
may still be traced, and the ball-room (100 feet by 20 feet) forms one side
' of the quadrangle. The azotea has a view of the city and roadstead. The
only plantation remaining is on the river's side : here duels are sometimes
fought. The Northern Railway runs through the park, and near the statioa
is the English Cricket ground : a little further is the new pcwder mill of
Messrs. Liesenberg & Co., a wing cf which blew up in 1867 ; it is now
working well.
The road from Palermo to town was the only decent highway in the
country till very recently, but now it is as bad as the rest, and the neat
iron fences are all broken down. Messrs. Lezica & Co. have started a
«graseria)) for me] ting down sheep, near the Rifleros, which will be most
88 THE SUBURBS.
injurious to the water supply takea from the Blyer Plate a few perches
lower down. These works have been recently put up by Mr. Coghlan, C.E.^ .
for the Provincial Government, at a cost of £50,000, and can distribute
1,300,000 gallons of filtered water daily tbrQugh the city.
Passing the Recoleta we find a series of charming quintas along the
fcbarranca)) all the way into town. Whitfield's is one of the finest ; it was
built in 1823 by Mr. Wilson alias Whitfield, who had been a soldier at St.
Helena and, coming to Buenos Ayres, established the first English,
apothecary's shop in this city. The Klappenbach quintas are occupied by
English families : the grounds have been recently sold out in building lots.
The Povero Q^avolo is a well-known tavern, with bowling-alleys, &c. Just
below the fine quinta of SeQor Estrada is Chassaing's new steam-laundry,
a first-cla^s establishment, provided with the most improved American
machinery : it is quite a boon to the city, which formerly depended solely
on black washerwomen.
We have now reached the terminus of the Northern Railway, in the
Paseo Guardia Nacional, as the adjacent thicket of willow-trees is called-
The, battery <(a fleur d'eau)) has six guns for firing salutes.
FLOR£S.
San Jos6 de Flores is nearly tvio leagues from town by the Western
Railway, and situated on a gently rising ground, with a fine view of the
camps westward. The village takes its name from the founder, Don Juan
Diego riqres, who ceded the ground for the purpose, and (jommenced a
small chapel thereon. In 1808 Bishop Lu^ formed it into a parish out of
the territory of San Isidro, the first curates being. Don Simon Bustamante
and Don Miguel Garcia. The place began to attain some importance under
Don Antonio Jttillan,,who marked out the building lots and projected the
buQding of the church. On the llth December 1831, the church was
consecrated by Bishop Medrano ; it consists of three naves, and measures
120 feet long by 50 feet wide- Amongst the principal benefactors were
Messrs. Terrero and Boneo. In this church was signed the treaty of 1859
between General Urquiza and the city of Buenos Ayres. Half a century
ago Flores was the favorite suburb, but it suffered severely during the civil
wars up to 1859. Since that time it has revived a little, and there are
now many pretty quintas along the line of railway. The high road has
been allowed to fall into suph decaj as to become almost intransitable^
The partido is small, comprising only six square leagues of land, now j
exclusively occupied in gardens, meadows, or grain farms. So late as th^^^
SAN JOSE DB FLORES. 89
year 1 855 there were «rodeos)) of cattle in this partido. The town is a
fitraggiing place ; on the south side of the Plaza is the church with its two
belfries; on the east side the public school, a fine building with Grecian
ft*ont and portico. There are 979 houses, of which 593 have a^otea roofs,
four are dry-goods stores, and eighty-three grocery and general ware
stores. There are 422 chacras, covering about 9^000 acres; the farming
stock comprises 2,472 horned cattle, 4,232 horses, 5,320 sheep, including
500 Saxony do., and 1,332 swine. At Caballito the traveller will admire
the fine edifice occupied by Mr. Negrotto's school. On the road we remark
the quintas of many wealthy city residents. Before reaching Flores a
pretty cottage with gothic gables arrests our attention ; it belonged for
many years to the amiable and accomplished Manuelita Bosas, who fled to
England on the downfall' of her father, but still keeps the place in the
utmost neatness and style. The prettiest quintas are those near the
railway. Mr. Boy d's^ called «aose-hill,)) is a delightful place, formerly the
country-house of Mr. Parody; the gardens cover about six acres: on the
' opposite side of the railway isDorrcgo's quinta, where General Urquiza had
his head-quarters in 1859. Between the CabalJito and Flores stations are
the quintas of the eminent financier, Sefior Ricstra, of Dr. Pardo, Seilor
Terrero, and many others. That of Marc6 del Pont, at the Flores station,
presents a beautiful spectacle in Spring, beings surrounded and festooned
with roses. Abotit 500 jards westward is the delightful residence of Mr.
liavid Methven,.who bought the place in 1867 from Seilor Coquet: the
latter gentleman had expended a great deal of money, during sixteen
years, to render this quinta what it now is ; the grounds are interspersed
with shady bowers, fountains, flower -knots, vineries, hot-houses, statuary,
Ac, and the view of fields and meadows on all sides brings vivid
recollections of English farm scenery. South of the railway there are
also two fine quintas^ belonging to Mr. John Hughes and Mr. Stegman ; the
latter is occupied by Mr. H. A. jBreen. Nearer to the village; are the
cottages of Mr. Neild, Mr. Forrester, the late t)t. Leslie, and other foreign
residents. Flores was once very famous for its cock-pit, and crowds
would assemble on Sundays to witness the sport ; but, of late years, cock-
fighting has gone out of fashion, much to the regret of the (cpulperos.)>
There is a respectable Club of young men here in the summer months, when
balls are often given on Sunday evenings. It is not easy to find houses
torent for the summer months, but building-lots may be had very cheap,
and many families reside here all the year round. The population of the
district is set down as follows: Argentines 51,84 i, Italians 1,641, French
355, Spaniard^ 330, English 169, Germans 40, Indians 2, various 87 — Total
90 THE SUBURBS.
5,435. The State schools are attended by 91 boys and 126 girls, shewing
an increase of pne-third over the returns for 1863. Flores has a Justice
of Peace, a municipality composed of six members, 463 National Guards,
and fifty-eight Alcaldes and policemen. There is no hotel in the place, and
the shops are of an inferior order. Dr. Fitzsimons had an Irish college
here in 1865, but he has since removed to the province of Entre-Rios*
General Gelly-Obes has a quinta neap Caballito, and Dr. Velez Sarsfield's is
near Almagro. The Italian <(chacreros)) raise beautiful fields of lucerne,
which give splendid hay-crops :• they also make much money by fruit and
vegetables. The district of Flores is a succession of gardens, orchards,
country-houses, &c. from the moment we leave the Plaza Once de
Setiembre till we reach Floresta.
DARRACAS.
Barracas is just one league south from the Plaza Victoria, and was at the
beginning of the present century a charming outlet much frequented by
English families. Thus from Horn's hill, where Mr. Mackinlay resided,,
we pass a number of quintas, en route southwards, most of which were
built by Englishmen. The Yellow House^ at the turn of the road to the
Boca, was built by Mr. N., who made a fortune in Paraguay, and from
whose heirs it has passed into the hands of Mr. Ackcrley : it was,origlnally
three stories high, but has now only two. Hard by was a brick factory,
belonging to Mr. Billinghurst and others, which was given up in 1866:
strange to say, this was the spot where the early Spaniards made their first
bricks, whence the hill was called Barranca de Hornos (ovens) : the name
Horn's Hill is not derived from the coincidence that Mr. Horn resided here,
having been so called from the earliest times. Waterloo quinta, below the
British Hospital, was built by Mr. Brittain, and is now the residence of
Messrs. Krabbe and Williamson. A few hundred yards westward we reach
a fine old English mansion : it was built by the late distinguished hero,
Admiral Brown, and two old cannons, probably taken from the Brazilians,
are seen at the entrance ; the quinta was purchased from the Admiral's
widow in 1861 , by Mr. NoAvell, whose family still resides here.
On the barranca of Calle Buen Orden is the Balcarce quinta: here
Admiral Coe lived for a time, and it is at present tenanted by Mr. Banfield.
In 1865 the quinta was cut up for building, and the splendid Instituto
Sanitario is built on this ground. The adjoining quinta belpngs to Sefior
Gonsalez Moreno, who has rented it to Mr. Zimmermann. At the foot of
Calle Buen Orden is the Suarez quinta, for some time an English grammar
school, kept by the late Mr. Pongerard : it at present belongs to Mr.
DARRACAS. 91
Holterhoft Opposite to the Balcarce quinta is that of Seflor Gambac^res,
which is bounded by Langdon's fields, and is famous for delicious fruit.
Further west, beyond the Southern Railway, is the Convalecencia, formerly
the residence of Mr. Barton ; and close to this is the Saenz- Valiente quinta ,
built by an Englishman in the last century, with very pretty garden and
grounds. There are some cannon balls in the roof and chimney, a souvenir
of the siege of Buenos Ayres in 1 853.
The chapel of Santa Lucia, m the CalleLarga, is quaint and qld-fashioned ;
it was formerly the chapel of an estauciero whose herds of horned cattle
roamed over the site now occupied by Bariacas, and whose estancia house
is still seen (now a butcher's shop) at the Banderita corner. The feast of
Santa Lucia occurs in December, and the Galle Larga is lighted with
bonfires on the. occasion. Videla's quinta is worthy of notice, as also a
fashionable house built in the Louis Quatorze style by M. Vignal. Tliere
is another pleasant country house belonging to the wealthy family of
Llavallol. Fronting the plaza of Santa Lucia is the elegant quinta of the
Senillosa family : there are fountains, statues, arbors, &c., and at the end
of the garden, in the rear of the house, we fmd a grotto and a tea-house,
ftom the top of which there is a fine view. The Botet quintas come next,
and opposite these is that of Mrs.Garreras, overgrown with weeds and fruit
trees run wild. The Banderita is an ancient pulperia, famous for its horse
races on Sunday afternoons : her^ branches gff a road that leads down to
the Galle Sola. The first quinta on the left was once the property of a
lady named B , a beauty in her day, who afterwards died in the public
hospital : an Italian gardener now lives here. A little further, on the right,
is the entrance to Saenz Valiente's quinta, where the first sod of the
Southern Railway was turned, on the 8th March, 1864 : the first saladero in
the country was established here in the eighteenth century. Next comes
Mrs. Oliver's quinta, And in front that of Dr. Gasajemas, who has a
beautiful nursery and some fine fruit.
Returning to the Galle Larga, we meet, on the right, the delightful
cottage and gardens of Don Juan Antonio Fernandez ; next, the country
house of Sefior Sublaurre, built in Italian style ; the quinta of ex-Minister
Elizalde ; and opposite these the Miguens' quintas, seven in number, the
first belonging to Minister Avellaneda. Passing the Segovia quinta we
come to that of the Atkin's family : old Mr. Atkins was an American citizen
who lent £20,000 to equip the first Argentine fleet, under Admiral Brown ;
he died in poverty, of a broken heart, but his family got paid in 1865. The
stearine candle factory of Messrs. Holterhoff & Go. is an important establish-T
ment, provided with the most improved machinery : it w^4SlfS&|;urated, ii
92 THE SUBURBS.
presence of the chief authorities, ia 1856, and produces excellent candles;
some samples were sent to^ the Paris Exhibition of 1 867 : the factory is
under the immediate supervision of Mr. Holterhoff, and most of the work-
men are French or Germans. Next is the handsome quinta of the Herrera
family, in which ground was commenced the new church of Santa Lucia, in
1863: the design was too vast, the walls having only got 4 feet high, and it
is not likely the work will ever be carried out, although a church is much
needed here. The candle and soap factories of Seflor Mafie and Don Julio
Arditi, and the quintas of Rebol and Silvestre, intervene before reaching
the castellated residence of the late Seflor Escribano : this is an imitation
of some feudal castle seen by Seuor E. in his travels on the Rhine ; he died
in 1862, leaving a large fortune to an infdnt daughter. This part of the
Calle Larga is a favorite «promcnade A chevab) on moonlight nights in
summer. The Torres quinta is at the corner of CaUe California, crossing
which We come to the Fabrica del Incendio, so called because Seuor
Sansinena had the misfortune to be twice burned down : it is a soap and
candle factory. On the left side of the Calle larga is Alzaga's quinta, now
a soap factory, and a few steps further is the Tres Esquinas Railway
Station. The Barracas Club has very commodious -premises, with billiard-
tables, reading-room, salle-a-manger, &c., but the dreadful miasma
produced by the saladeros and myriads of poisoned fish, on the banks of the
Riachuelo, pollutes the atmosphere in this neighborhood.
The village of North Barracas has little to recommend it, consisting of
su! dry abarracas)) for storing produce, a few liquor shops, and a State
school. The streets are often impassable in wet weather, although this is
the great highway to the south. Cattle for the city markets are sometimes
brought in by the Calle Sola, to the great risk of the foot passengers. At
the bridge a toll is collected from passengers in coaches or on horseback :
a new iron bridge is in course of erection, besides a railway bridge for Mr.
Wheelwright's line to Ensenada. West of the bridge is a group of houses
called San Antonio. Most of the inhabitants here, and throughout Barracas,
are Basques or Italians : thirty years ago there was a large Irish population,
employed in the saladeros of Brown, Do^vdall, Armstrong, Cambaceres^
Downes, &c., but they are now mostly estancieros in the camp.
The great industry of Barracas consists in its saladeros, of which there
are sixteen, beginning at the Puente Alsina. The saladero is a place fitted
up for the killing of cows and mares, salting the beef and hides, and boiling
down the sheep and mares' flesh to extract tlie grease. In former years
as many as 1 0,000 cows and mares have been slaughtered in a day, in the
busy season, but owing to the depreciation of jerked beef, and the
BAtoAGAS.
93
incteased takes atid ex][)ens6s, this business is now diminished. Since 1866
the rendering do\frn of sheep has become a great business, amounting to
.200,000 head monthly. Fdr many years the Riachuelo river has beeu used
as a sewer to carry off the oftal and filth of the saladeros, and the
«malaria» arising herefrom li^s been most prejudicial to public health : the
water of the river is often blood-red and poisons all the fish. In 1862
an Artesian well was sunk by Messrs. Sordeaux arid Legout to cleanse the
saladeros, but it failed in this purpose. In 1868, during the cholera, public
indignation forced Government to close the saladeros for a period, but they
still continue their pestilential labors, although a decree has been passed for
their removal at a future date. Saladeros have afforded a staple trade
from the earliest time of the Spaniards when the horned cattle were killed
in millions, merely for their hides : in the present century a trade sprung
up with Cuba and Brazil for jerked beef, which is exported thither in large
quantities. The celerity with which the saladeros work is so great that
500 head are slain, cut up, salted, &c., in a few hours, Avith a comparatively
small number of peons. The flesh is first hung in strips, to dry in the sun,
and then put in an immense salted pile, previous to shipment. The peons
earn from $40 to $200 a day, according to their skill. Between Puente
Alsina and the Barracas Bridge there are six saladeros, viz. : those of
Anderson; Lopez, Lezama, Cobo, Pereyra, and Medrano & Panthou. Those
below the bridge are all on the south side of the Riachuelo, viz.: Llambi,
SaiitarAaria & Llambi, Cambac^res. Saavedra, Muftoa, Herrera & Baudrix,
Berisso, Soler, Senillosa, and Cambac^res. The killing season usually
begins in November, and ends in May, and the wfaenaw sometimes amounts
to 400,000 head of cattle. The returns of the total afaena)) in the Biver
Plate for 1867 were as follows :
Vnigriay Bepvblic,
Montevideo,
317,000
Saladero Quemado, 36,000
Fray Bentos, .
66,000
Salto, 25,000
Boman,
32,000
Casa Blanca, 48,000
Arroyo Negro, .
63,000
Sacra,
31,000
Total, .... 648,000
Mercedes,
30,000
Arg€7itine
Republic.
Concordia,
Gualeguaychri,
32,000
77,000
Buenos Ayres, 444,000
Gualeguay,
54,000
40,000
Total, .... 6dl,000
Rosario,
Parana,
14,000
Grand total, ..-. 1,309,000
Digitized by ;
8l«
94 THE SUBURBS.
The traveller should not omit to visit the iron girder bridge and specious
workshops of the Southern railway, about 400 yards above the Barracas
bridge : the bridge is one of the finest works of the kind in the continent.
Hard-by is the Wool-washing factory of Mr. Isaac Rick : these works,
which have been just completed, are situated about midway between the
old Barracas bridge and the bridge of tlie Ferro-Carril del Sud on the
north side of the Eiachuelo. They form an entirely new industry : the wool
from its usually dirty and greasy state, is converted into a material so
white, clean, and free from «carretilla)) and aabrojo,)) and all other foreign
matter, as to be scarcely recognized by those unacquainted with the process,
and rendered perfectly fit for the spinners' hands on arrival in England,
France, or Germany. Sorting Room — The wool in its dirty state from the
shed in the yard having first been assorted here into several classes
according to the length of staple and various qualities of the wool, is
taken into the Scouring Room. Here it is first placed in a steeping trough
containing hot-water and ingredients of a saponaceous kind, for the purpose
of softening what is termed the wyolkw and loosing the dirt. Afterwards
it is placed on the feeder of the scouring machine which, revolving, carries
the wool into the trough of the machine holding hot-water and a scouring-
liquid, which is kept at a regular tcipperature by means of pipes bringing
steam from the boiler. The wool is carried forward in this trough by
means of rakes to a cylinder which lifts the wool on to a feeder, carrying
it forward to rollers, which, by means of great pressure, squeeze the
water from it and render it ready for the Drying Room. In this room is
a machine having a very powerful fhn, making 800 revolutions per minute.
The wool having been spread on the 0|>en work, the fan is set in motion,
and by means of the dry-air being drawn through the wool into the fan
chamber, the moisture from the wool is carried thence by means of a flue,
to the outside of the galpon, and the wool is in a short time rendered dry
and fit for the next process. Willowing and Burring Room — In the first of
these, in a machine designated in England in common parlance a devil, the
wool is next placed, and by means of a cylinder revolving rapidly (the
teeth in which pass through the fixed teeth in the machine) any dirt which
may have remained is separated from the wool and by a fan, carried through
a flue to the outside of the galpon. In a short time the wool is ready for
the burring machine, which is of a new and most successful kind. This
machine being fed, the wool is carried through rollers revolving in
different directions, whence it is taken by a cylinder on to a steel hooked
roller revolving rapidly in one direction, so close to another smaller fluted
roller revolving in the other direction, as to extract from the-^vQol all
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BARRAGAS. 05
<ccarretilla,» i(abrojo,» and any other extraneous matter. Above this are
revolving brushes, which take the wool from the hooked roller, at the
same time brushing off every particle of dust, which is carried off by
means of a powerful fan through a flue leading out of the roof of the
buildtug, leaving the wool most delicately clean and fit for manufacturing
purposes: it is then taken to the Packing-room and there baled for
exportation. The engine, of ten-horse power, is fixed between the drying
and press rooms, and by means of strong shafting and pullies running the
entire length of the building, which make 200 revolutions per minute^
the whole machinery and works are set in motion. The boiler
and hot-water tank will be placed outside. A large tank or deposit for
pumping water into from the river, has been sunk outside the building,
lined with zinc, capable of holding water suDBcient for nearly a week's use^
so as to render the working somewhat independent of the river when low
or dirty. Altogether there is an air of compactness and arrangement about
the whole establishment, which must commend itself to all business men.
At the Tres Esquinas, also, there is a place well worthy of notice ; it is the
dockyard of John Marshall, who built the first steamer in the River Plate,
the Anglo Argentine, in 1863. Since then he has built the Era, the Luxan,
the Estrella, and other commodious steamers for the passenger traffic of
the Parana and Uruguay ; the tonnage of these steamers was as follows :
Anglo-Argentino, 30 tons, 8-horse power ; Era, 130 tons, 40 horse power ;
Estrella, 45 tons, 1 8-horse poAver ; the interior fittings of thege vessels
were also done by Marshall, who has a carpenter's shop attached to his
iron works; he gives employment to a large number of hands: he also
constructed the vessels of light draught for Mr. Seflorans' expedition up the
Bio Vermejo. During a quarter of a century this persevering man, who
came thither a poor mechanic, has toiled successfully for his adopted
country and with great credit to himself, notwithstanding the Oppressive
duties on iron and coal, which weigh down this industry.
THE BOCA.
Following the sinuous course of the Riachuelo towards its mouth we
pass a number of «barracas)) where a bustling trade is always going on,
either receiving produce from the coasting-craft, or baling wool for
shipment, or embarking hides, wool and bone-ash in lighters for the vessels
in the roadstead. The Llavallol and Balcarce «barracas» are notable for
their great size ; next come those of Temperley and Bunge. Near the last
named is Mr. Younger 's steam «lavadero» for washing sheepskins^4he firsL
■Digitized by VjOOQIC
96 THE BOCA.
of the kind started in the country : this enterprising Scotchman brought
his machinery from England, and began his works very suocessfuUy in
1866: since then other «lavaderos)) have been established^ and the
Government has in a measure favoured the industry by charging no higher
duties on washed wool and sheepskins than on unwashed.
We are now in the region of Italian boat builders, and the sounds of
the saw and hammer are heard on all sides. This is the Boca, distant
about half a league by railway from the city, and consisting of an
assemblage of painted wooden houses, in the midst of a rank vegetation.
The language of the place is a corrupt Genoese dialect, lumbers of
coasting craft from the up river ports, the islands of the Parana, and the
Gran Chaco, bring cargoes of oranges, vegetables, charcoal, firewood, &c.,
for the use of the city ; the master and crew are invariably Italians, and all
part owners of both vessel and cargo. The Riachuelo has so many bends
that the navigation is most diflScult : the tides are treachetous, depending
chiefly on the wind, and vessels are sometimes delayed a week or more for
want of sufficient draught of water. There is a Captain of the Port, with
four subordinates and fifteen sailors. The best stores are those of Gasares
and Roncoroui Pini. The whole village is at times inundated, the flood
reaching as far as the Galle Larga of Barracas : there is also much danger
of fire, the houses being of wood. The situation is low, damp, and
unwholesome, and the cholera made great havoc here. There is no church
for the inhabitants, who are supposed to belong to the parish of San Telmo.
The ccommunication with the city is by rail and omnibus, fare $5 and $3.
The inhabitants are orderly and industrious, mostly occupied m building
or repairing smhll vessels of 20 to 100 tons, which trade with all the ports
of the Parana and Uruguay. The official returns show that there are thirty
of these dockyards, employing 40 master builders, 150 carpenters, 85
caulkers, 9 blacksmiths, and 25 sawyers. In 1864 they built U schooners
and 15 smaller craft, with an aggregate tonnage of 876 tons, the timber
used being all hard woods, such as urunday, algarroba, quebracho,
lapacho, «&c., from Paraguay and the Gran Chaco. There are 117 lighters,
manned by 465 sailors, constantly engaged between the Boca and the
vessels iu port. The returns of coasting trade show 37 steamers and 2,902
schooners entered during the year, with an aggregate of 7 1 ,474 tons. Mr.
Hodge and Mr. Sherman have foundxies on the south side of the stream,
with which there is a ferry. For some time the superannuated war
steamers of the Republic might be seen here, as also the <cdrag» brought
out by Government for cleansing the port, but which was suffered to stick
here uselessly in the mud. In July 1867, the American clergyman, Rev.
SOUTH BA ABACAS. 97
'W. Goodfellow, started a school for both sexes in the Boca. If, before
leaving this indastrious neighborhood, t)ie stranger have time to visit
Younger's lavadero, be will find it v^ell virorth while. The apparatus fdr
Tmrring and scouring, as also the baling press, are driven by steam power.
The machinery is of the best description, and the scene is very animated
when all is in fall play. There are twenty men constantly employed, who
can turn out 300 dozen sheepskins and 300 arrobes washed wool per day.
Mr. Younger obtained a prize at the Paris Exhibition, the only one given
for this industry in South America : his residence is adjoining the works,
which are about to be enlarged to meet the increased deniand : the estab-
lishment stands on eight acres. It seems clearly ascertained that the
first Spanish discoverers made their landing at the Boca. There is a
Resguardo at the mouth of the Riachuelo, to prevent smuggling: the
adjacent grounds, south side, are the property of Mr. Demarchi. Most of
the lands on the north side belonged to the Brittain family, but were sold
by auction in 1865, the purchaser being Mr. Charles Jackson. The high-
road from the Boca to town has been paved as far as the Yellow House, and
is now a great facility to trade. The population of the Boca will probably
amount to 3,000. It is situate within the municipal boundary, and has
therefore no local authorities.
SOUTH BARRAGAS.
The Barrdcas bridge being the municipal boundary, the district of South
Barracas forms a distinct wpartidow of the province, but it is really a suburb
of Buenos Ayres. This flourishing village, distant one league from the
Plaza Victoria, would be an exceedingly pleasant place bufrfor the smell of
the saladeros : these are eleven in number, as -already enumerated, and
give employment to a large and industrious population. There are some
very good shops, and the people have a well-to-do look. The main street,
Calle Mitre, is wide and well-built, but sometimes almost impassable from
«pantanos.)) The church is a fine new building, erected mostly by
contributions from the Basques, and has two belfries that are visible
several leagues off : there are six side altars, kept remarkably neat by the
several families of Panthou, Gimenez,&c.to whose care they are entrusted.
Don Enrique O'Gorman is oWner of much landed property hereabout. In
<;ialle Brown there is a «corral» for pigs, belonging to Sefior Soler. Don
Lorenzo Torres has some land bordering on the Arroyo Crucecita, which is
■crossed by travellers going southward, to the Puente Chico and Quilmes.
The cemetery of South Barracas is not far from the c^j'Aflch.^ ©8fb^^
98 THE SUBIIRBS.
two State-schools, attended by 65 boys and 52 girls. The population inr
1864 was estimated at 7,000, including 79i French, 659 Spaniards, 622
Italians, 47 Germans, 37 English, and the rest Basques or Argentines.
There are 207 azotea houses, U dry goods' stores, 74 grocery and liquor
shops, and 392 thatched houses. The chacras are 214 in number, covering
about 4,000 acres of tilled ground : the partido comprises four square
leagues, and the stock consists of 2787 hotned cattle, 1958 horses, 3,952
sheep (including 168 fine do.) and 2,023 swine. The railway to Ensenada
will follow the line of the high*road towards Quilmes : the fields on either
side produce abundant crops of hay. The coast-line is low and marshy,
and there is an island called Islade Pescadores, where fugitives from justice
sometimes hide themselves. The high-road to the Lomas de Zamorra
branches off at the Juzgado, not far from the Barracas bridge. The
municipality of South Barracas comprises the Justice of Peace and six.
members : there are 50 alcaldes and police, and the district furnishes 372
National Guards. The traveller should pay a visit to the Artesian Well in
Cambac^res' saladero, the bore of which is eighty-nitie yards deep; the
water is brackish, but. said to possess saline qualities, on which account
baths are now established here (see page 107 of Section A). The works
were begun in 1859 and concluded in March 1862, the following being the
layers penetrated in boring — 1st. Sand for 15 feet, the base being
corrupted with filtrations from the saladerps. 2nd. Tough compact sand
for 24 feet. 3rd. Very close sand, with veins of wasperon,)) for 2 feet.
4th. Liquid slimy soil for 3 feet. 5th. Dark-blue ochre, easily dissolved^
for 9 feet. 6th. Tosca with calcareous spots, for 8 feet. 7th. Very
yellow fluid sand for 5 feet, 8th. Fluid grey sand, with small bits of
quartz, and a spring of water, 33 feet. 9th. Fluid sand for 56 feet. 10th.
Consistent loam, marine shells, calcareous f ragmehts and crusts of asperon
for 56 feet. Uth. Argillaceous sand for 8 feet. 12th. Very hard
calcareous layer for 1 2 feet, after which the water rushed up through the
tube to a height of 15 feet above the ground, and this was the completion
of llic works, after boring 234 feet. The failure of the well to absorb the
blood of the saladeros was said to be owing to the thin texture of the
fluid lands.
It is proposed to remove the saladeros to Ensenada, ten leagues further
south, where a good port can' be made at little trouble or expense, and
. Mr. Wheelwright's railway will connect the place with Buenos Ayres.
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EXqURSIOHS BY RAILWAY. 99
CHAP. IX.
EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY.
THE NORTHERN — TO THE TIGRE.
The prettiest scenery around Buenos Ajres is found in this route: the
distance is about twenty-four miles. The line was begun in 1862 by Messrs.
Croskey and Murray, of London, the Government giving a guarantee of
7 per cent, on an outlay of £150,000.. It was opened to San Fernando in
February 1864 (see page 106 of Section A). The official returns for 18S6
and 1867 are as follows : —
18G6' 1867
Number of passengers, 267 ,792 329,793
Gross receipts, 4,36 1 ,979
Working expenses, 3,5 1 6,3 i7
Guarantee paid by Government, 1,057,516 466,868
This line has not reslilted favorably, owing to its inferior construct.on, *
which has called for constant repairs, making the working expenses exceed
80 per cent, of the gross receipts. It will be seen, nevertheless, that the
deficit to be made good by Government was much less in 1867 than in the
previous year, •
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100 EXCUBSIOHS BT RAILWAY.
There is a tramway from the Custom-house to the Retiro terminus, a
mile iu length, the cars running along the Paseo Julio, past the Gas-house,
The Betiro terminus is at the foot of the hill on which the city barrack
stands. The first section of the line is much exposed to inundations,
although partly protected from the river by a plantation of willows, among
which you will see numbers of black women washing clothes. On the
left we have a pleasant view of the quintas built along the «barranca.»
Mme. Frebourg has a French boarding-school, after which comes Riglos's
quinta, where General Whitelocke signed the capitulation of his army, in
1807; it is now the property of SeQor Estrada, whose splendid two-story
mansion is the next object. Below the quinta of Dr. Lorenzo Torres is the
new Steam-laundry, close to which is the tavern of Povero Diavolo.
Klappenbach's quinta is now cut up, and yonder was the former residence
of Consul Parish, commanding a delightful view of the river. So does
Whitfield's quinta, by turns the residence of the British or French
Minister, and nearer to the Recoleta is Mr. Armstrong's couutry-house.
The line here passes through the dismantled fortifications of one of the
outworks thrown up in 1861 to defend the city from General Urquiza's
threatened siege. This is a very exposed point, and the railway works
have been repeatedly damaged by inundations. The water-supply for the
city is taken from here ; the works and embankments just completed are
on the left of. the line. The Recoleta cemetery and Poor Asylum crown
the ((barranca.)) The quintas of Mr. Samuel B. Hale, an old American
merchant of high standing, and of ex-Governor Saavedra, ccme next. In
south-easterly gales it is common to see vessels driven ashore here. The
Riflcroslsa tavern near Palermo Chico, and there are some farm-yards
here for rearing poultry for the principal city hotels. We now enter the
ruined park of Palermo, the palace of Rosas lying to the left. The station
is situate in what was once the grand avenue, and on our right is visible
the stand-house of the English cricket-club : the cricket-ground is about
four acres, rented from the municipality of Belgrano, and here the Athletic
Sports also take plate. Passing the new Powder-mill we cross the Arroyo
Maldonado : about half a mile on the left we see the handsome Maldonado
quinta, near which Rosas commenced a great bridge over the arroyo, but it
has been left unfinished. The line now crosses a tract of swampy land,
till approaching the «barrancas)) of Belgrano. A number of pretty
quintas run along the hill, ending with a very ancient tile-roof house
belonging to Dr. Corvalan.
The chapel of Belgrano has a charming effect, looking over the line of
railwaj, the lowlands, and the river. On one side of the statioi^^he^Tp
^ igi ize y g
POWT OLIVOS. 101
Italian villa of Sefior Matti, the steamboat proprietor ; on the othier is
Watson's hotel. In the summer season Belgrano is crowded "with visitors
but in winter it is all but deserted : the place is famous for its race-course
(see page 86 of Section B). After traversing an open plain we cross the
Arroyo Medrano, by an iron bridge, and enter the fine demesne of Mr.
James White, a Scotch gentleman, who, coming to Buenos Ayres forty
years ago, began life at the foot of the ladder, like so many other prosperous
men in the country. This demesne formerly belonged to the family of
the late bishop, Medrano, and is one of the oldest places in the neighbor-
hood : the house is nicely situated, with shady corridors, large apartments,
and extensive offices ; there is a court-yard resembling a barrack, where
the slaves were lodged ; the pigeon. house contains some thousands of birds.
Mr. White has devoted his chief attention to the rearing of superior
English-bred horses, cows, &c. : his famous racer Belgrano has carried off
numberless honors, and his half-breds are much in request both as saddle
and carriage horses. He has expended large sums in bringing out superior
animals from England. The farmyard is admirable; the grounds are
tastefully laid out. There is a gigaDti<5 ombii tree, in the trunk of Avhich
one of Mr. White's cow herds has lived for some years past. Mr. White
possesses a large wheat farm at Chivilcoy. The next quinta is that of the
family of the late Mr. Patrick M*Lean, and here there is a station, called
Bivadavia. The line traverses a low ground, skirting the base of a series
of delightful summer residences, belonging to the wealthy families of
Barros Pazos, Elia, Laprida, Uriarte, and Cano : some of these are built in
the best style, with ornamental terraces and gardens in front, and looking
out over the broad bosom of La Plata. For fantastic effect nothing can
surpass the Azcuenaga quinta, built in the form of a hexagon, with a
multitude of windows : it is related of a Gaucho that, on being asked bow
he liked the place, he said — «It was a nice place enough for a man to sleep
outside of.)> Mr. Azcuenaga is an old bachelor, and was once president of
.the Municipality of Buenos Ayres.
Point Olivos, the property of Mr. Wineberg, is the best situation along
the river, and here the town of Belgrano should have been built. The
barranca comes close to the water's edge, which offers a very suitable
bathing place, and the point juts out into the river, with a fine view of
Buenos Ayres southward, and San Fernando and the islands northward.
Mr. Wineberg, who is a native of Poland, after making some money as a
dentist in Brazil aud Buenos Ayres, purchased the site, which extends back
as far as the San Isidro highroad, and projected the formation of a town to
be called wPueblo Mitre,)) but he asked too much for building lots, and his
102 KXCURSIOmS BY HAILWAY.
house has stobd:hcre in solitude for some years, surrounded hj a vineyard
and flower garden. Looking from the railway carriage over the river the
traveller obtains a panoramic view in which the thousand ships in the
roadstead of Buenos Ayres form an interesting feature. The line now
enters a slight cutting, and* we are surrounded by the rich corn fields of
San Isidro, interspersed with the quintas of Pellon, Uriarte, Pacheco,
Martinez, and Escalada. We cross the famous Callejon d'Ybaftez, a green
lane leading from the highroad to the river, which was the abode of a gang
of brigands thirty years ago : numberless robberies and murders were
committed here„ and passengers dreaded to pass the place even in the noon
day. A deserted *cpulperia,)) where the robbers held their rendezvous, is
still seen on the roadside, but has long been uninhabited. There are some
handsome quintas on the barranca, right of the line, before reaching San
IsidrO, viz.: those of Aguirre, Anchorena, and Vernet: the second was
built by Mr. Patrick Brown, an old Irish resident; it had nice grounds,
summer lK)tises on the cliffs, and an excellent fruit garden. Yernet's is
equally beautiful, commanding a boutfdless view of the river.
San Isidro is a charming summer residence, about 14 miles from the
city : waving fields of corn far as the eye can reach, green lanes that remind
you of some midland counties in England, and lovely quintas with Grecian
colonnades, Moorish corridors, and rich vegetatio^ all around, make up a*
picture unrivalled on this side of the River Plate. The quintas of Alvear,
Mackinlay, Elortondo, Tomkinson, and Tbaflez are remarkable for their
picturesque situation and luxurious style. The town looks ancient, and
most of the village forefathers sleep in the churchyard at the entrance to
the chapel of St. Isidore the Laborer. The legend of the foundation of San
Isidro is thus told — On a summer afternoon in the month of February 1725,
a Gaucho halted his horse here under the shade of an ombQ, to take siesta,
and, struck with the beauty of the situation, made a vow to St. Isidore, his
patron saint, that if ever he came to be a rich man he would build a chapel
here. He became in time a wealthy estanciero, and kept his word. The
present church is, however, of a more modern date. There is a pi ctty good
inn, kept by Sefior Tiscornia. The public school is newly built, spacious,
and well-ventilated. From the plaza to the river side there is ^ shady
thicket, which is a favorite place for English pic-nics in the fine weather.
Kcw country houses are being every day built in the neighborhood,* and one
of the finest is that belonging to an Italian gentleman, close to the railway
station. General Mitre, during his term of office, sought relief from the
cares of ^tate in a quinta on the river's side, where he passed the summer ^jg
mouths with his family.
103
SLSH FEKdiLKDO.
Leaving San Isidro, the railway strikes inland and we on^y ^{^^^^
view of the quintas along the «barfanc(i.«> The niost "O^^We^^'f e Punte
ChiTa^Mr. BrLn's delightful cottage : this is fi«edup wlththe Wmo^^teste
and luxury; the gardens are extensive and w6ll ^^^f^^^Ve "s^^ o
fruit; from the extreme point over the river can be seen ^hejsl^* ^^
Martin Garcia and the delta of the ParatiA.' There is a ruin on ^he
^barranca., from the time of the early Spaniards.
Corn-fields again intervene tUl we reach San Fernando {diaS l^ljjj^*;'
from the beaut? of its position). The view inland now rj^^^^^/^™'
glimpses of the wide and open camp, with «heep gracing Jnt^^^^^^^^^
The town is at some distance from the river ; it « very irregularly built
St la considemble population, atid promises to becdme J. pla^of ^e^
^ortance, if Mr^ Hopkins succeed^nMs^^^^^^^^^ tr^^^te^rre
arroyo the port of Buenos Ayres. There a^®/^"^^^"" „ . .x,. ^,u^^
National, kejt by M. Manet, has good wines and accommodation , ^ other
fscalled Hotel de France, in the Plaza. A new church is i« ^f «J^ ,
llfuln. . There are many fine quintas In the -Jg^bourh^^ ^
Fernando owes its existence to an inundation which 2"^'^*, ^
Conclias in 1806, when the parish^priest removed the ««^f"«^;^;'' .
high ground, and the Viceroy Sobre^monte tW tiie fir sod of^
Fe'rnando in great solemnity, only a few -^^^^fi^/^om^
Buenos Ayres, on the English invasion, when he embarked
Theto'hern Railway was at first intended t<* stop at San ^ernand^; -^
the Government guarantee went no ^-^^^^ ^^V^Tb h^f^^^^^^^^^
resolved to prolong it at their own nsk to «>« ^igre w i
convenient port for the river steamboats .^'^^^J'S;'';^ embark in
sheltered from rough weather, and whieit ^« «'ten^f;"^'*^Xi^s no
the roadstead of Buenos Ayres the up-river passenger traffic sustains
"TrlCn re^n'Jifthere is a continual descent towards the swamps of
theXe and La""onchas. A few houses and ranchos -tt^^/^^ere a^d
here,l school-house built onarches. a quinta b«l«»g-gj\^^;^f 7,^;^^,
some clumps of trees, are -* ^^h before reaching tt^l^gre^^^^^^^^^^^^
nearly three miles from San Fernando, and 24 f^om the jity^ x
Tls run right down to the river, and ^^^^^-"^^^\Z^^ZSX^^^
the steamers. Beyond the Tigre we see several splendid J«.^^^^
those of Gonsalez Moreno, Tejedor. Garngos ^L TlLt^iv^^J
resembles a chapel, and cost a l^'-g^ f^^""^ SSmpti Since the
station there is an exceUent restaurant kept by M.Champ^on.^^m
104
EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY.
exceedingly light cSof7Zk\ZZm^^^ «»
skimming over the waters ofth! t i " '^^' °° ^""'^^y^' '^ dozen
the Paran, islands The^ sla„,^"''"' ^'''l' f"* ""-"berless channels of
Senor Sarmiento now tes de^t o^^^^^^^^ ""tr'?' ' '^" ^^''" «»"«' -'^
appreciate their beau7vanrfertnitvh r.^'''^ ""'^ """ "^ *''««'•«* »»
isagardenteeming^trfrdt?„f^^ '" the Reculadas stream,
his own hand. Not farJnLuL^^ T' '*""^ °^ ">^ ^'^^' P'«"ted by
but the finest of ^l t tfat of M R ' '« «"<*„^»''-ated b. Senator Pincro;
^16,000 sterling in tL yll! , ""'u'- " ^'''"''''™^'^' ^'^'^ "as invested
the finest potatoL L JheTt;™ ' i'T' rT'' '" '''' "'""^' '"^'^ ^«'-"ff
day among these islal iTatLbl^ *''"?"" "'" ^"^ " ^'^^^^
every stream is bordered wTth J «!."''? '"^""""* vegetation, and
water's edge and IbH. * ''''' *''"* '^''''"P their branches to the
The island!; are mosUv It^.r^ '1'" "'*' '^"'* °^ «--«- -e!
others charcoal burne^'^oVer'b^^lc";^ ^T""' ^''^^ «^ ^^em gardeners,
on poles, to gnardaSsttW "'''"'■'' '^'^ ^'"'^ their hats bnil
boais at he T^re is Can h^'^'^iV"""''*"""^- '^''^ "«"^1 ^^arge for
dai.y,.a.ingtCn;fabraThonr"::^^^^^^^^^^^
THE BOCA AND ENSENADA RAILWAY.
Section aTLST " ''"'**'' "^ Mr. Wheelwright (see page 106 of '
September iS TafiflnHK "t ""^ "P"°'** *" ^••^^*«' f««'- »"««> oa
Boca It Un '-I ^ * ''""'"'' '"'' '^""^^y afterwards run down to the
ping g^^r*7/T'K^'' ^ '«67itcarried 459,698 passengers;
Lt. iL^Srpr'ie^itrve^ ""''"' "^""^ '''"^'^'^ '* P«^
sterW P™''*^**' «*^^ 6i ?«*• cent., on a capital of £80,600^ i
■'* Digitized by'GOOgle
T^E BOCA 105
The temporary terminus is at the foot of Calle Venezuela, below Santo
Domingo church, but there is in course of erection a splendid iron girder
viaduct, made in England, which will start from the Custom-house and run
along the beach to the Yellow House, a distance of more than a mile. This
will be one of the finest works of railway engineering in the Continent :
the cost of it being £50,000, including the terminus at the Custom-house ;
it runs at a height of several feet above the highest Santa Hosa flood. At
various tunes the line suffered much injury and interruption from these
periodical floods; but now this inconvenience will be obviated. The
viaduct will be completed in the beginning of 1870; the weight of the
structure is estimated at 1,000 tons.
The line runs along the beach called Paseo Colon, where a kind of
breakwater is formed by a thick plantation of weeping willows. The
barranca on the right is high and steep : we pass under the city hospital^
Fair's quinta (for many years the British Legation), and Lezama's quinta :
this last is the finest in Buenos Ayres, covering fifteen acres of ground, laid
out in the best Italian style, with parterres, hot houses, statuary, bowers,
and ornamental plantations : the house is also commodious and elegant, with
rich drawing-rooms, dieting hall, chapel, and a mirador 60 feet high:
visitors can obtain tickets for admission to the gardens, which command
the best. view in the city. General Urquiza resided here for a short time in
J 860. The site was occupied forty years ago by Mr. Mackinlay's quinta.
The first station is the YeUow House ; here the line crosses the highroad
to the Boca, and enters Jackson's fields. On the right are seen Waterloo
quinta, the British Hospital, and the barranca which extends to the Calle
Buen Orden : this would be an admirable place for a good row of houses
built in English style, as the position is high and ciiry. The fields traversed
by the line are often partly under water, the vicinity of the Boca being
almost below water level. The view on the right is very pretty; the
quintas of North Barracas peeping out here and there in the midst of a
dark green foliage. On the left we see the wooden village of the Boca,
from which rises the din of ship carpenters busy at work, for this is the
great dockyard of the River Plate. A forest of masts indicates the great
coasting trade also done here.
At the junction of the Boca branch with the main line are the company's
workshops and sheds for rolling stock, besides a turning table : the train
halts here. There is a great curve on the Boca branch, which winds its
way through the shanties and dock yards of the Italian ship-wrights. You
will s^e them building schooners on all sides for the coasting and up riv^^
traffic. The line runs down close to the Riachuelo, where there is^
106 EXCURSIONS Bt RAILWAY.
wooden station: the passengers are almost exclusively Genoese. Here
were landed some of the locomotives brought out from England for the
Central Argentine Railway, but the goods traflBc by this way is inconsiderable, '
owing to the diflBculty of bringing lighters up the Riachuelo, and the
necessity of carting goods at the Venezuela Station till the viaduct be made
to the Custom-house.
The trains for Barracas h ave to run down to the Boca, and then return
to the main line, which goes straight towards the Barraca de PeAa, on the
banks of the Riachuelo. We pass Younger's steam factory for washing
sheepskins, and the barracas of Temperley and Bunge. The train halts at
Pefla's barraca, to let down or pick up wool brokers or barraqueros : this
barraca is one of the finest, and does a great business.
The line now hugs the river side, passing in front of several barracas,
where the peons are at work loading or discharging produce from schooners
and lighters, which are moored under the willows. At times the banks are
strewn with fish, poisoned by the saladero liquids, and then the smell is
insupportable. On the opposite bank are the saladeVos. The Riachuelo *
jhiere is about 150 feet wide, the water of a dirty red color, and the bottom
is such a deposit of mud that sometimes when a man falls into the water he
never rises to the surface.
Passing the extensive barraca of Hughes & Peters we reach the Cinco '
Esquinas, situate at the end of the Calle Larga. The stranger should visit
the Glub, and Marshall's dockyard. From here the line pursues its course
hy the former site of Brown's saladerOj and then on to the Barracas Bridge,
the present terminus.
The trains run from town every hour, and return from Barracas at the
half hours, making the journey either way in twenty-five minutes. Tlie
average number of passengers is 1 ,400 daily.
When the line shall be prolonged towards Ensenada it will cross the
Riachuelo near the site of the old passenger bridge, pass through the wide
main street that leads to the Crucecita, leaving Barracas church on the
right, and crossing the arroyo at the Puente Chico. It will then touch at
Quilmes, which will become a favorite suburb when once connected Mith
town. There are many nice quintas here, and the farm and plantations of
Mr. John Clark cover a great extent. . Leaving the cabaftas of Latham and
Benavente on the right, the line will traverse the estancias of Mrs. Yates and
Don Leonardo Pereyra, then following the route of the telegraph wires
over a tract of swampy country, and crossing Mr. Bell's Estancia Chica, it
will terminate at Ensenada, where Mr. Wheelwright projects to form ttefg
port cf Buenos Ayres, as it was under the early Spaniards till the moum
WfiSTERN RAILWAY. 107
became impeded Mrith sand. The distance from Buenos Ayres to Ensenada
is thirty-three miles.
THE WESTERN — ^TO CUIVILCOY.
This was the first railway constructed in the River Plate ; it was got up
entirely by local capitalists, the contractor being Mr. Bragg ; the first sod
was turned at the Plaza Parque, in presence of the civil and ecclesiastical
authorities, on the feast of Santa Rosa (August 30th) 1857. It was opened
to Flores, 6 miles,' in the following year; to IMoron, in 1859; and to
Moreno, 25 miles, in 1861. The enterprise proved unsatisfactory to the
shareholders, and after some dissension the line was purchased by the
Government of Buenos Ayres for $20,000,OOOra45 (£160,000) with the view
of prolonging it to the western districts. The Provincial Bank was
authorized by the Legislature to advance 44,000,000 for the prolongation
to Mercedes, 37 miles beyond Moreno, and subsequently 1 5,000,000 for the
section to Chivilcoy, in all 100 miles from town : the total cost has been
82,500,000 (including a sum produced by sale of public lands) or about
£660,000 sterling, equal to £6,600 a mile. The line was inaugurated for
trafiBc to Chivilcoy on September 17th, 1866, on which ' occasion the
Government struck a medal with the inscription <t Western railway to
Chivilcoy, 100 miles, constructed entirely by native resources.)) The line
traverses the best sheopfarming districts in the country, and does a gieat
business in goods and passengers. The official returns for 1866 and 1867
are as follows : — *
1866. 1867.
Number of passengers, 368,65 1 472,627
Grossreceipts, goods & passengers, 12,685,499 .... 16,18i,656
Working expenses, 57 p. cent 65 p. cent.
Nett profit on capital, .... 9^ 7i
The decrease of profits in the latter year was owing to a reduction of
25 per cent in the fares, which are cheaper than on any other line. The
amount remaining due to the Bank, on April 30th 1868, was $59,000,000m,45.
The construction of telegraph wires to Chivilcoy cost £6,200, equal to £62
per mile. The line is on Barlow rails from town to Mercedes, and Griffin's
rails from Mercedes to Chivilcoy: at special places there are Krupp's oir
Greaves's steel rails, also Viguoles and double-headed rails. The
terminus has been recently supplied with a powerful fire-engine worked
by steam power, with a hose some hundreds of yards in length.
108 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY.
The Parque station is in the Plaza of thdt name ; the new station now
building will cover 1800 square yards; the line crosses the Plaza
diagonally, passing in front of the artillery magazine ; there is a sharp
curve into the Calle Parque, and here they have employed steel rails.
Although the Callc Parqus is only 40 feet wide and thickly inhabited, no
accidents occur here ; in fact Buenos Ayres is so fortunate in this respect,
that our railway mortality does not amount to one person yearly. Leaving
the new Jesuit college at Calle Callao on' our right, the line makes another
bond, into Calle Corrientes, down which there is a steady decline till we
reach the great workshops of the railway. These were completed in 18G8
and comprise a first-class establishment for all kinds of railway works :
the various shops of carpenters, blacksmiths, turners, coach-builders,
painters, (fee. are well worth a visit. Further on the spacious goods'
stores offer an animated picture in the wool season, and have accommodation
for a large portion of produce of the northern and western sheepfarms :
the roof is of corrugated iron, supported by metal pillars. Passing the
«miUof thOjWest)) we get a view of the Once de Setiembre wool-market;
this is crowded in the busy season with the «carretas)) or camp waggons,
which may be said to navigate the Pampas in all directions. This is the
first station on the line.
From Once de Setiembre the line strikes out due west through a series
of quintas well stocked with fruit-trees. On the left is the Miserere, a
very ancient place associated with General Whitelock's attack on Buenos
Ayreij. A branch line runs off here towards Barracas, which was made
with the intention of carrying produce to the Riachuelo, but this was
afterwards abandoned ^it is now used for carrying off the city ordure,
which is burnt in an adjacent field. Before reaching Almagro station w6
pass the quintas of Bletcher and Gomez on the right, and Billinghurst on
the left. The station adjoins the grounds of Don Julian Almagro, and is
2^ miles from the city. At a short distance on the right are the suburban
residences of Mr. Lumb, Dr. Velez Sarsfield, and the Jesuit fathers-
There are now two highroads parallel with the line, the Gauna road on the
right and the Flores road on the left. The latter is lined with quintas
belonging to Carreras, Valenzuela, Ceballos, Achaval, Amespil, Tarragona,
Cruz, and Labrue. On the Gauna road is a saladero for killing pigs.
The meadows about here give abundant hay crops. On a slight eminence
to the right is Rose-hill, the delightful residence of a leading shipbroker,
Mr. Boyd: the house is in Grecian style, with principal front looking
eastward, a row of Australian gum trees forming the avenue from th^lc
highroad ; the gardens are exceedingly tasteful. On the left is Guerrico's
FLORES AND MORON. 109
quiata^ with a fine grapery leading down to the line of railway. The
quintas of Valle, Luna, Dr. Pardo, and others follow. Dorrego's, on the
left, has numerous bowers and statues ; on the right is the quinta of Don
Norberto Riestra.
Flores is a pleasant little place in the summer time. Observe the quinta
of Seftor Del Pont, fronting the station, and three or four others, almost as
pretty, hard by. The church and public school are on the left. The
village contains about 1,000 inhabitants (see page 88 of Section B). To the
right the view stretches away towards the Pampa; on the left we pass the
Olivera and Letamendi quintas, and approaching ^loresta is that of Sefior
Ximenez, an estanciero of Corricntes, who essayed cotton planting in 1863,
on the river Batel. On the right is a strange looking wooden structure,
built for a hotel when this was the terminus of the line ; and now we pass
through a number of chacras under grain, till reaching the station of San
Martin. The village of this name lies to the right, not far from the battle-
field of Monte Caseros, where Rosas was overthrown in 1852. The branch
railway from Floresta to the Luxan river will take this route. Near the
San Martin station is a nursery belonging to Don Eduardo Madero, under
the care of a French gardener : after which we see the charming country-
houses of Don Juan Madero and the brothers Exequiel and Matias Ramos
Mejia. To the left is the river of Matanzas, so called from a dreadful
slaughter (matanza) of Indians made here by the founder of Buenos Ayres,
Don Juan de Garay, for which the King of Spain gave him a grant of three
square leagues of land on the northern bank of the river : this grant is at
present in the hands of the Ramos-Mejia family. Crossing the lands of
Segurola, Mendez, and Rubio, we leave on the left the village of San Justo,
and next traverse the properties of Villegas, Pefla and Puyrredon. The
higliroad to the northern camps strikes off on the right towards the Puente
de Marquez, a place associated with some bloody battles in the civil wars.
Before reaching Moron our notice is attracted by a pretty American farm-
bouse, called Ohio Park, the country-seat of Mr. Coffin; the house is of
two stories with pointed gables, and surrounded by gardens and meadows.
3Ioron is situate on a high ground and considered a healthy summer
residence; it has some fine houses, a parish church, public promenade,
theatre, hotel, and about forty dry goods and grocers' stores. Horses or
carriages may be hired here to make excursions to any of the neighboring
estancias. In summer time there is a Club which gives balls on Sunday
evenings, and these are attended by the townfolk and many ladies and
gentlemen from the city. We nbw get a view of the campagna stretching
away on all sides to the horizon, save where the prospect is relieved by toj^
Digitized by vlC
110 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY.
estancia-house surrouoded by a (cinonte» or peach plantation. On the
right are those of Gonsalez and Pellon, and the left Pearson and Dillon ;
the last named is Justice of the Peace for Merlo, and descended of a
respectable Irish family that was banished in the rebellion of 1798. The
village of Merlo is a straggling place, with a scanty population and a little
Gothic church : the public-school is half-way between the station and the
village, and near it is an English-built house, formerly belonging to Mr.
Boyd. Many of the houses are in ruins, and the doors still painted red, a
souvenir of the time of Rosas. The finest estaucia in the neighbourhood
is that of Mr. Thomas Gahan,a wealthy Irish sheepfarmer. Sefior Carranza
has also a well cultivated chacra. The branch railway to Lobos will start
from near Merlo. We now cross the river Las Conchas : on the left is
Castagno's flour mill, and adjacent are meadow farms belonging to some
industrious Frenchmen. Alcorta's «cabaOa» of fine sheep is on the left,
with a tasteful house and plantations, and further west is the valuable
estanciaof Mr. Wyatt Smith, a favorite visiting place for strangers who wish
to have an insight of camp-life.
Moreno is distant 25 miles from the city, and was a place of some
importance before the prolongation of' the line; it has a population of a
few hundred souls, Avith a hotel, a dozen shops, a large plaza, and a church :
at the western corner of the Plaza is a curious unfinished structure, with a
amirador)) three stories high ; this was the work of a Frenchman who was
employed to build the church, and who died before finishing either the
church or his house. Horses may be hired at the hotel Labastie. The only
cutting on the line is after leaving Moreno, and even this is insignificant :
probably there never was a railroad easier constructed than this, the work
simply being to lay down the rails on the turf, which is so level that Mr.
Allen assures us the incline sometimes in ten miles does not exceed that
number of inches. We are now fairly launched on the broad bosom of the
Pampa, and if you wish to feast your eyes on the glorious expanse that has
no limit for a thousand miles, you should ask permission to accompany the
engine-driver, who hurries along at 30 miles an hour, speeding onward
towards the Indian territory, with the motto of his locomotive (d'm off to
Chile !)) There is a peculiar sense of buoyancy and freedom in careering
over these boundless prairies, and the eye of the political economist is
cheered by the signs of thriving pastoral industry on all sides. Most of
the sheepfarmers are Iri^shmen, some of them owners of large tracts of
. land and numerous flocks of sheep ; others are poor «puesterosw following
their flocks on horseback, while the children run out from the mud rancho
to gaze at the train as it passes. The humblest hut of an Ii;ishman is
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
LUXAIV AJID MERCEDES. lit
distinguishable from those of natives, by its having a chimney and a ladder,
the latter being used as a look-out for the sheep. On the right is Robert
Kelly's estancia, after which we cross the Arroyo Sauce and a «canada»
or thoUow, called Bajo-hondo. To the left are the estancias of Edward
Billon and Owen Lynch.: the latter made his money in the city at his trade
of saddler. The Alvares estancia covers a large area, and we cross the
arroyos Durazno and La Choza, the latter of which rises some leagues
higher up, in the estancia of Mr. Patrick Maguire. The Bodriguez station
is on the site of an intended town, which at present counts seven houses :
it was marked out by Governor Saavedra, who directed that the church
when built should be dedicated to St. Patrick, as most of the neighbors
are from the green isle of Erin. Crossing the wcdnada)) of San Antonio we
skirt the Irigoyen estancia; the house has a chapel and large chacra
attached. The confluence of La Choza and Arias arroyos is near another
large Irish settlement, comprising the rich estancias of Peter Ham,* John
Brown, Kelly, Casey, and others, after which we get sight of the
Villa de Luxan.
Luxan is one of the prettiest and most interesting towns in the camp, and
distant forty-three miles from the city. It derives its name from a Spanish
officer killed in an encounter with the Indians on the bank of the river that
flows by here. The church of Luxnn has long been a pilgrimage for people
from all parts of South America, and the shrine of the Virgin is richly
decorated with votive offerings. The Cabildo stands in the plaza, around
which .are several good shops. There is an Irish priest resident here. The
public schools are worthy of a visit. An omnibus plies between the station
and the town, and if the traveller wish to see some of the Irish estancias he
will find horses for hire. On Sunday mornings the town is crowded with
Irishmen coming in to Mass, and one or other of the richer estancieros will
always invite a respectable stranger to dine v^h him at his estancia. From
Luxan the line runs almost parallel with the Luxan river, but in opposite
directions, nearly the whole way to Mercedes. Crossing a small arroyo
we pass the estancias of Bomero, Gutierrez, Maxwell, Burke, and Eeal on
the left, and Gonsalez, Navarro, and Achaval on ^he right. We now enter
on the large Olivera e*stancia, where there is a midway station between
Luxan and Mercedes* The estancia Buiz intervenes before passing the
Arroyo Balta, which is spanned by an. iron bridge sixty feet long, after
which we leave the estancias of Vivar, Garaghan, and Connor on the left,
and those of Dr. and Nicolas Lowe on the right.
Mercedes is visible at a considerable distance, or at least the chacrasand
qulntas which surround it, for nothing of the town itself cau/be seen till
Digitized by V^rOO_^
112 • EXCURSIOriS BY RAILWAY.
"we have travelled a couple of miles through shady peach orchards. The
railway station is superb, and has an excellent <f buffet. » The city, for
such is its official title, is a mile distant, and omnibuses meet every train.
The church and new town hall are handsome buildings, and there are about
5,000 inhabitants : an Irish priest resides here. The best shop is that of
Messrs. Torroba Brothers, where strangers will find any information they
may require. There are two good inns, and horses or carriages may be
hired for excursions. This town, like Luxan, is a great centre of Irish
sheepfarmcrs, who possess several valuable estancias in the partido. It is
distant sixty miles from Buenos Ayres, and the trip is made in three hours
and a-half. The Luxan river flows N.W. of the town. As we leave
Mercedes, the cemetery is on our left, and we again traverse a number of
quintas, crossing the Luxan river below the Trias estancia, beyond which
we see a large flour mill. On the left we pass a wooden cross in the centre
of a fenced field : this marks the scene of a dreadful battle with the Indians
some forty years ago, in which the savages were victorious, and here are
interred the unfortunate frontier troops who were cut to pieces. On the
right we see the electric telegraph wires that start hence for Rosario,
passing through San Nicolas and some intermediate villages. The river
Luxan still runs parallel, and on the right are the estancias of Barrancos
and Unzue, on the left Sanchez and Aranguren. A little further we find
some more wealthy Irish farmers; Michael Murray, John Dillon, and
Edward Martin : the camps about here begin to descend. On the right is
the confluence of three arroyos, named Cardo, Durazno, and Leones;
beyond these are several lagoons and a little eminence called Cerrillo de
Leones. A few years ago this was Indian territory, and as yet there are -
few peach mounts or plantations. The solitary ombii stands out, at
intervals, in bold relief on the horizon : this tree is worthless even for
firewood, the timber being exactly like a rotten cabbage-stalk, but it js
most valuable as a landmark in the Pampas, and the coolness of its shade is
exceedingly grateful to the wearied traveller. Travelling across these
plains bears some resemblance to a journey in Egypt: when the plain
is at all dusty and the sun shines brightly^ a perfect «mirage» is
created. You fancy you see a lake or river, and the reflectipn of trees in
the water: the picture recedes from you as you advance, the lake never
had existence, and the tree is only a shrub a few inches high. Another
effect of the mirage is to confuse distances : two houses are in sight, and
you make for the nearest, but you find it double the distance of the other. '
The size of objects is also strangely magnified, and a small whitewashed
cottage appears a large and stately mansion. It often happens at dajbreafe|g
FlueiRE TO CHIViLOOT. 113
that an estancia becomes disliacUy visible to the imjk.^ e^e, aUiioiigli so
• maefa. beyoad the horizon as not to be properly visible even through a
telescope. Yonder flock of sheep, by another optioal delusion, exactly
resembles a long stone "Brail. In spting these plains are covered Trith
thistles 10 feet high, so ttiick that ahorseman cannot make* his way through
them. Sometimes there are dreadful camp fires, accidentally caused by
throwing the remains of a lighted cigar among the thistles. Messrs. Van
dje Velde of Buenos Ay res, and others, have invented machines for mowing
down these thistles.
The estancias of Laurence Kelly, BIrs. Kenny^ and James Maguire are
«een on the left, before reaching Freyre. This station is close to the
€Stancia-hou^e of an old Spanish family of the same name : old Sefior
Freyre died last year, very wealthy, and his deatkHsickness was said to be
caused by vexation at having 200 sheep killed by the train. It is found-
expedient not to flence the railways in thi^ country^ but rather leave the
$ides open, for cattle to scamper off on either side when the train
approaches. When a cow or slieep, hbwever, is run over, the iron fender
in i^ont of the locomotive quietly throws the dead aniiial off. At Ffeyre
station there is a sagacious mule employed in tcurning the wheel of the
water-tank, and whenever he heats thia appi^ach of the train he goes to
work of his own accord. As we traverse the ' Barrancos estancia the line
^steadily declines towards Las Saladas, a stream or rather swamp, which has
its origin in the Encadenadas lakes some distance to the north, near the
estancias of Thomas Carney and Michael Allen. In wet seasons this
swamp is very much flooded, and the first railway bridge put across the
Saladas was partly carried away : this caused Mr. Allen, the engineer, to
invent two supplementary bridges Instead of earthworks, which he
constructed of two railway bars placed one on the* other, leaving tree
passage beneath for the flood. The total bridge now measures 150 feet
across. Ten leagues lower down, to the left, Las Saladas falls into the
River Salado, not far from the fine estancia of Mr. John Smith, the well-
known broker. We now enter the great estancia of Dr. Gorostiaga, Finance
Minister ; it comprises nine square leagues of land, forming four distinct
establishments, viz., San Jos6, San Bernardo, San Patricio, and Santa
Trinidad, each of which has a lagoon of the same name, an estancia house
and plantation, and a quantity of farming stock : the chief estancia house
is fa^ on the right, with a large peach-mount ; the stock of the Gorostiaga
estancia numbers 10,000 cows and 60,000 sheep. The station at this point
is midway between Freyre and Chivilcoy. The land is still low, and as we
pass Cerrito Averias we get a view of the <cchacr^» and plantations of the
town of Chivilcoy,
114 BXCVBSIOSS BT KAILWAT.
Ghivilooy, the temporary tertninas of tb^ Western line, is 100 mHes from
Baeaos Ayres, and is the great agricultural district of the province : it had
long been the dream of Don Domingo Sarmiento, now President of the
, Bepublic, and, in the 14 years since its foundation, the progress of the
place has been rapid and prosperous. Abundant crops of grain and
potatoes are raised here, but previous to the railway reaching Chivilcoy
(September t866) the farmers had no market for their Indian-corn and were
obliged to burn it for fuel in making bricks. The ((chacras» cover a great
extent of ground, and are famous for excellent peaches. The streets are
wide, and many houses are of two stories. There is k first-rate club and
reading-room; also a luihdsome school-house. The plaza is 200 yards on
each side. At Messrs. Torroba, Standard agents, the stranger can procure
any necessary information. The train takes 5f hours to make the journey
• from town : ther^ are two trains daily each way.
The line is being prolonge^oBragado, 25 miles further west, for which
purpose tlie Legislature of Buenos Ayres recently voted an emission of
6 per cent, bonds. The route will traverse the «chadras)) of Chivilcoy^
cross the Arroyo Hinojo and San Antonio, then through Mr. White's large
wheat farm dawn to the Bio Salado. This river is crossed in 35 degrees S.
lat., and just 2 degrees of longitude W. of Buenos Ayres. The estancias
of the Granwell family and of Biaus intervene before reaching the lagoons
of Bragado-grande and Cassio. Then there is a «lomai> or gentle rise,
and on the far side lies the frontier town of Bragado, near the Saladillo
lagoon.
THE SOUTHEBK — TO CHASCOMUS.
The first sod was turned on March 8th, 1864, by President Mitre, and the
line was completed to Ghascomus in December 1865, the distance being
72i miles, and the cost J&725,000. The contractors, Messrs. Peto & Betts^
adopted the Barlow rail, and the construction of the road, the rolling-stock,
Ac. are highly creditable. The line may be considered very successful ^
ttom the following official returns :
1866.
1S67.
Number of passengers, ....
210,878
407,410
Gross receipts,
7,790,231
.... 10,447,873
Working expenses, ....
63i p. cent. .
. . . 58| p. cent.
Goods traflBc (arrobas), ....
1,293,799
.... 2,117,794
Deficit paid by Government,
3,778,667
• 'Digitized ?>?^^?)gle
UAikS Dfi ZAMOHRA* • US
Thus it vrill be seen that tte iroirking expebses diminished)! wUtle the
nett proceeds increased, froin,2f in 1866 to over 5 per cent in 1867i The
prolongation to Dolores is indefinitely postpbned.
Biereis a tramway connecting the Plaza Gonstitucion termUins ifFiih the
city ; at present it stops in Calle Lima, but it will be prolonged to the
Custom-house. The terminus has every accommodation for passengers and
goods, the sheds affording ample storage for wool. The line leaves the
Gonvalecencia on the right, and Langdon's and Saenz- Valiente^s quintas on
the left, after which there is a rapid decline towards Barlracas, while
the view takes in a varied landscape of country-houses and gardens, with
the Boca in the distance. The station of North Barracas is close to
Pereyra's salAero, in the midst of a little colony of industrious Basques.
Tfie Riachuelo is crossed by a great iron girder bridge, supported by six
cylinders, and having a span of 52 yards: the cylinders are sunk 60 feet,
and the bed of the stream is so slimy that some of them stand in 3^ feet of
mud; each cylinder was tested with a weight of 125 tons of rails: the
bridge was made in England by Messrs. Bridgeworth, and is a noble work.
On the south bank of the Riachuelo are the Company's workshops ; that for
repairing locomotives and doing other iron works has room for a dozen
large forges, with flues of massive brickwork ; the shed for mending
carriages is equally spacious, and has a turning-table ; then follow two
large depots, for carnages and engines. The station of South Barracas is
at some distance from the village : we see the church towers -on the left,
as we traverse a region of kitchen-gardens to Lanuz station, and then speed
away towards the picturesque thickets of
Lomas de Zamorra: there are several pretty quintas in the neigh-
bourhood of the Lomas, and among the contributors to the village church
were Messrs. Peto & Betts and some other Protestant friends. It would be
difficult to find in the environs of Buenos Ayres a more delightful place for
country-houses than hereabout. The air is peculiarly fresh and invigorating
the ground high and dry, the plantations affording agreeable shade, and
forming green lanes lined with poplars. Mr. Temperley's quinta is the
most charming that can be imagined, being finished in the best Ei^lish
style, with handsome grounds, through which the railway runs. This
pit)perty acquired great value by the line, and Mr. Temperley ^old a part
ot his «chacra» in building lots for country-houses. Messrs. Green,
Drabble, Grigg, and others, have lands near the line. The Lomas station
is exceedingly neat : it may be mentioned here that the stations on the line
cost the sum of £64,000. Mr. Temperley's house is a little way bejond
the station, on the rigkt, and opposite to it is Mr. Livingstone^le
116 EU^Gim«01fS BT BAU.WAT.
fcrus-in^oirbe^ with ;a iieat summer house. EiAerging ftom the woods of
Zftmorra we get a yiew of the open camp, the eye taking in on the right a
faint glimpse of the far-&med Santa €atalina^ and on the left the shmbbarj
of Mrs. Kidd's rustic hotel. Santa Catalina was the site of Robertson's
Scotch colony, 1826, and has the finest plantations in Buenos Ayt'es. Mr.
Fair projected a branch-line from the Lomas to his estancia of Monte
Grande, via Santa Catalina, but it has not much prospect of hieing realized.
Next we come on the grounds of Don Roque Correa corered with peach
and paradise trees, and then on the Hunt property, after which there are
some large grain <(chacras,)) belonging to Bell, Boyd, and others, including
an industrious native farmer.
Excellent fresh butter is sent into town from the next Ifcation, which is
called Bursaco. There are some fine estancias within easy reach 'of
Bursaco station ; those of Robson, Young, Brown, and Boyd ; and near the
Conchitas river is Santo Domingo^ the property of Mr. Davidson. The line
of railway is as straight as an arrow.
In a few minutes we reach Mr. Glew'js estancia : the farm house is
surrounded by a peach mount, atid close at hand is the Glew station: Up
to this point the country wears a lovely aspect ; smiling gardens, thickets of
peach trees, and fields full of golden promise ; but henceforth the landsci^e
grows dull and uninteresting. Leaving Glow's estancia.on the right, and
Ojeda's and Gowland's on the left, we begin to enter on what maybe called
the fens of Buenos Ayres, a low-lying country of lagoons and abafiados.*
We are now close to Sau Vicente, those two ombu trees being only a league
from that village.
San Vicente station is reached in two hours from Buenos Ayres, and a
diligence plies to the neighboring town. As the line pushes on to
Donselaar, we pass the widow Campos's estancia, a snug farm-house, and
further on Mrs. Flora Lavalle's ; the land about here Is verj low : we cross
the Arroyos Campos and Donselaar by small iron bridges. The estancias of
Donselaar and Freers are on the left, and not far off is the splendid German
model-farm of Oldendorff & Co. : this is worthy of a visit, being unrivalled
in the River Plate ; the grain farms, meadow lands, fences, farm yard, and
sheds are admirable of their kind, and there is a fine breed of horses from
the King of iVurtemburg's stables. President Sarmiento visited this f^m
lately and complimented Mr. Oldendorff as «the first German in the River
Plate. » We next crbss the estancia Godoy, and on the right is a large estate
belonging to Mr. George Bell. Mot far off is the property of a thrifty
Scotc'hman, 'Mr. MacFarqtfhar, and then follows that of Sefipr /Cdaqniola.
Oh the left Is Mr. Temperley's estancia, and then come those of Wilkie and
SAHaOROM&OK; 117
Faqlkeft; the latter is a valuable property, vrhieh the oimer (an old
Englishman) fenced in at great expense. To the right of the line lies the
estaneia of the late Mr. Harratt, ^ho i?fas one of the first settlers that
importe4 Sue sfeeep from Europe, about thirty years ago. The estancia
of tb^ late Bryan Thorp is some distance on the right.
Sanborombon is famous for its great iron Tiaduct, 900 feet long,
supported by fifteen solid buttresses of masonry, the bricks for vrhich if ere
made by the Company, near Ferrari station. The whole country hereabout
is jan impassable swamp in winter, and in summer it is usually dry, and
smarming with:gra8shoppers : as many as a dozen people usually- lost their
lixes every winter in attempting to cross the Sanboromb6n. This immense
<ccafiada)> or valley extends for thirty leagues down to the coast of the
River Kate, and in its virinity there are some fliie estancias, including
thpseof Bell, Bucbanan, Graham, Pbwes, Brown, and Newton. The last
na^d faniily possesses a great qoantity of real estate in the province.
There is nothing of interest till we reach Ferrari, and a little beyond this
is^ppeneristation^ so called from a Germdn estanclero wb6 is lord of the
soH:;ilanipeffiectual attempt wras made to establish a town here, but there
is ^ very €Ood English hotel, and numbers of 'diligences ply hither from all
the southern districts. Near Jepp^iner station is the estancia of Los
Galpones, the residence of Mr. Weichman: the Jockey Club holds races
hejs* at/intervals. A little further Ave cotnfe to the Wild bridge, which was
singularly unfortunate during the. building of the line ; no fewer than
three bridges to cross the «arroyo5i were lost in the Atlantic, coming out
from England, and this is the fourth. Mr. Wild has a Comfortable farm-
house on the left : further on is Mr. Cowan's estancia, and now we approach
the Altamirano station : a diligence here takes passengers for Ranches. On
the right are the estancias of the Alegre family. Next comes that of
Seflor Correa.
The Gandara station is on the fine estate of the same name ; the late Mr.
Gandara was an industrious old Spaniard, and his family still reside here ;
they have a t<graseria» for melting down sheep, close to the station. The
estancia extends on either side of the line ; the house, surrounded by a
large «monte,» is seen about two miles distant on the left. Near the
Vitel (daguriaw are the Twaites estancias. Passing the lands of Figuerroa
we traverse a series of «chacras,» and come in sight of Chascomus. We
have now travelled over 70 miles from townpand it will be remarked that
we have hardly seen an Irishman along the route. The foreign population
is not at all so thick as in the north and west, but there are some English,
Scotch, and German establishments of the first order. In the wool seasoi
i^le
1 tfl| t BXGURSIOHS 8T RAILWAY.
of 1?6§ ^he wools from the sooth fetched the highest prices, being
conaidered cleaner and better than f^om any other districts*
Ghascomus is a thriving place, situated oatbe side of a large lake. The
railway; terminus is a handsome building, and there is a good hotel kept by
Mr. Devitt, besides Sefior Titon'sinn. The church, public schools, plaza,
and a quinta built by Mr. Grawfoisl on the edge- of the lake, are worthy of
mention ; besides the well-furnished shops of Auld & Pettygrew, Standard
agents, and King & Go. There is a resident Scotch clez^yman, Bev. Mr.
Fergusson. A resident Irish clergyman has also been recently appointed
here, the .Bev. Mr. MuUady. A telegraph wire connects the town
with Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. There are three trains to and from
town daily, making the journey in. five hours.
The projected prolongation to Dolores, for which the GoTemment also
offers a, guarantee of 7 per cent., would open up ma&y ridifiurmiag districts.
The lin^ w(^uld cross the estancia of Doi^ Juan N. Femander, and pass by
8eTera^lagoo^s, then touch at L^combe's of Ghischis; after traversing the
estwcia of Bon Gregorio Lezama, it would cross the Bio Salado at Paso
YiUar. TMs is the chief engineeriaig obstacle on the k^oilte. The line
would next cross the estancias of Alzaga, Alvarez, Botet, Corddba, PiAero,
M^d^iaga^ and Peredo, before reaching Dolores. Tki^ town is the great
mi^rket of the south, and a place of much importa^ee : it is about 50 miles
trom Ghascomus, and diligences ply between the towns; but the i^oads in
winter are rather unpleasant for trarellipg.
There is another project to prolong the line towards Azul,' but nothing
positive has yet been arrived at, and it is probable that tot somisy^ars the
line will go no further than Ghascomus.^
Digitized by
Google
TARIFF, TAXES, A]f9 K|t<H»4ATI0RS.
119
OHAP. X.
TARIFFS, TAXES, REGULATIONS-
PROVINCIAL STAMPED PAPER.
Art. 1. The stamps to be used in all Proviucial docamemts: in Buenos
Ayres (the Custom-house and Federal Courts being national, fori«hich see
page 179, Section A), shall be as follows:
Amount. ,
$100
to
$3,000
3,001
do.,
5,000
5,001
do.
10,000
10,001
do.
20,000
20,001
do.
30,000
30,001
do.
40,000
40,001
do.
50,000
50,001
do.
60,000
60,001
do.
70,000
70,001
do.
80,000
80,001
do.
90,000
90,001
do.
100,000
100,001
do.
150,000
150,001
do.
200,000
200,001
do.
250,000
250,001
do.,
300,000
300,001
do.,
400,000
400,001
do;,
500,000
And so on in proportion.
Not OTor 90 4»yi.
$3 ....
5
Orer,90d«7it .
10
10 ....
15
20 ....
30
30 ....
45
40
60
50
75
60
90
70
105
80
120
90
135
100
150
150
225
200
300
250
375
300
450
400
600
500
D
igitized by Google
120' tltttM A96 TMXE9.
Art. 2. All bills of exchange, promissory notes, &c., i^bether in Buenos*
Ayres currency or other money, shall have stamps as in the foregoing
scale.
Art. 3. All contracts for sale of houses or lands, or goods, and all
monetary transactions for stated periods, either with or without a broker,
shall be on stamped paper, but the first draft may be on plain paper.
Art. 4. Police contracts, such as for apprentices, servants, or orphans,
shall have a $3 stamp ; and the same for each page of a petition to any of
the public authorities; also each page of an arbitration, notary's docu-
ments, &c.
Art. 5. A copy certificate of birth, marriage, or death, a license for the
inner provinces, and each page of a valuator's report, shall have a $S
stamp.
Art. 6. A copy of special power of attorney, protest of a bill, or other
registered document in a notarj^'s office shall have a glO stamp; the same
for a <(guia» for cattle, and ctboletos» of measurement from the Topographic
Department; also for each page of a contract with amount not expressed.
Art. 7. Documents for sale of furniture or real estate, and promises to
pay, either with or without mortgage,' shall have the proper Pampas ift
Art. K JNetary's ceriifieates shallbe on $3 stamp.
Art. 8. Certificates of registered contracts shall likewisebe on gSstjinp.
Art. 9. Copies of sueli documents as specified in Arts. 6 and 7, executed
before 1862, shall have stamp as in' Art. 1 on the first* p^tge,^ and $3 on
following pages. *
Art. 10. Each page of aland measurement, general power bf attorney
or draft of a will, $20.
Art. 11. Despatches of promotion, license on coming of, age, or for
fowling, the first page of a will, all petitioiis to Govemn^ent or the law
courts for measurement of ^frontier latnds or beyond thfe Sala^o, or.to the
Topographic Department for delineations in the city, 6ut?ide the area of
Calles Corrientes, Belgran6, Piedras, Esmeralda, Defeni^a, and. Julio, shall
have a 5 100 stamp; but petitions to* the Department for renewal of doors^
and windows' shall only pay $30 .
Art. 12- Petitions for measurement within the Saladdaud the frontier,
copies of plans from the Departmeilt,professional diplomas, and seals to-
wills, $200. ' >
Art. 13. Petitions-for professional matricdlation, for delineation of house
property within the area mfentionedin Art. 11 shall pay ^500, but renewal
of doors and windows only ^ 100.
Art. 14" Boletos for new marks, $500; copy or transfer of mark.s, $10CU
. . ■ Digitized by ' '
Art* ,15. S^ceipt3 rmy begiv^ii pnplaia paper, bujt if pliicod ia eVideace
require a $3 stapip* .
Art, 16. The pArty iflresenting the documents! or oiEigipatiag proceedings
shall pay the stamp.
Art. n! Judg^ or authorities majiiseplwap^H^^j^rp^^
Art. 18. Mo public employee shall admit a documeut wot properly
stamped.
Art. 19* Any party giving or rec^yiftg a ;doeai»ent»ojtpifop^rly stamped
sh^ll incvu* a fine of tenfold the proper stamp > votaries sbail suffer the
same fine, and for a sex^ond offence suspeu^iou.
Art* 20. In cases of doubt th^ proper authority shaU decide the amount of
stamp, \vithout q)peal.
Art. 21. In January each y^r all unused stamps may be; e^ehanged.
Art. 22. Spoiled stfmp$ may be likewise e^cba^ged at a&y time, paying
$1 eacb.
Art. 23, Coirtracts for a monthly $091 shall ,pay balf t^ie.ptwp ^ the
amount for the i;^hole terqi.
LAW OP ucmsBSOK PAXEijrars ^1869).
Art. 1* The rario^s trades ai^d profe^i^ipiis^Me dii^ided. into eleven
categories, fpr the payment of Patent^l for .1869^ asi folloiv^ : —
Category 1. First class, $50,000; second class, $2$^^0W.; third class,
% 1 $,0Q0» This category compi^ise^ banl^s^ ga^ icompfipy, and houses
excli^iyely occupied in discountsiingw .
Category % First class, $12,000; s^([^qud =class, S9,0<M>; third dass,
$5,000. This . category copiprises hQi^Qs of impart^tien . and
coosignment, ^ether t^ey ke^p, goo(jl^ , iu GuB^m-liQUse deposit
or have private stores^ or receive goods de^p^tched. direct; it also
iacludes saladeros, houses that expoi^t produce^ insurance companies,
and agencies of every kind.
Category i. First class, $8,000; second cU^s^, $.Mll^O; third class,
$3,000. This category comprises millS) yyjiiojlesale shops of esvery
kind^.h^els, public lodging houses, markets^ and travelling l\ux.ters
who sell liquor.
Category 4. First class, $5,000; second class, $3,000; third class,
$^,000. Th^s <^tegory comprises private hospitiils, undertakers,
graserJias^ drug stores, jewellery shppQ, clothing marts, theatres,
a^uction marts, steamboat, ag§ucie^, and bazaars for the sale of articles
^^^^^^7' Digitized byGoOgle
122 TARIPFd AND TAXES.
Category 5. ¥mi class, $3,000; second class, $2,000; third class,
$1 ,500. This category includes shops or stores by wholesale and
retail, wine merchants, furniture marts, newspaper offices, Con-
signees of produce and cattle from the country, breweries, carriage
builders, auctioneers, coal and limber yards, bifliard manufacturers
or retailers.
Category 6. First class, $2,500; second class, $1,500; third class,
$i,000. This categoi^y comprises ship brokers, produce barracas
with presses, coach yards, waggon factories, machine depots, ship
chandlers, shipbuilding yards, fondas, taverns, and coffee houses.
Category 7. Firstclass, $2,000; second class, $1,000; third class, $700;
fourth class , $500. This category comprises photographers, dentists,
retail shops for dry goods and groceries, gunsmiths, upholsteries, lamp
shops, saddleries, factories of soap, chocolate, tiles, oil, macaroni,
&c., and tan yards ; also shops of hardware, musical instruments,
pictures and mirrors, printing offices, public gardens, confectionary
shops, ready-made clothing shops, military outfitters, agencies of all
kinds, millinery shops, distilleries, piano stores, foundries, cigar
shops, whaleboat ofl^ces, barracas without presses, and all lottery
vendors who are not invalids or above 60 years of age.
Category 8. First class, $1,000. This category comprises lawyers,
physicians, surgeons, notaries public, accountants, architects, and
master builders.
Category 9. First class, $800 ; second class, $500 ; third class, $300.
This category includes land surveyors, haberdashers, apothecaries,
watchmakers, silversmiths, batters, shoemakers, tinsmiths, cuttlers,
coopers, combmakers, blacksmiths, carpenters, dyers, stone cutters,
chair makers, house painters, guitar makers, huxters, sail makers,
mattrass makers, charcoal feellers, attorneys, brokers, midwives,
sewing machine workers, lace makers, coffin makers, baling presses,
plumbers, turners, hair dressers, bakers, livery stables,'peep shows,
broom and basket makers, booksellers, window blind makers, coach
offices, tinkers, laundries, chiropodists, opticians, &c.
Category 10. First class $450. This category comprises weighers,
measurers, pilots, bleeders, veterinary surgeons, engravers^
painters, paper an<il bell-hangers.
Category II. First class, 300$. This category comprises organ
grinders, fiddlers, fan-makers, book-binders, huxters, piano-tuners,
clothes cleaners, stucco-workers, and all others not specified in any
of the above categories. Digitized by GoOgk
PATENT TAX. 123
Art. 2. The tariff shall be one-half in the country districts, excepting all
saladeros, graserias, and steam-factories within two leagues of the
municipal boundary of the city.
Art. 3. The 'assessment of the amount of Patent according to the
classification of the various industries as above, shall be done by a
committee appointed in each town by the Executive.
Art. 4. When one house comprises different branches the committee
shall assess that which pays the highest Patente : if there be separate
doors for such branches of business, they shall assess the highest Patente
and half that which answers to the lower branch.
Art. 5. From article 3 are excepted the folio wing, all whidi pay 1st.
class in their respective categories — Gas Company, travelling huxters,
pedlars, dentists, lottery-vendors, attorneys, brokers, midwivea, chiro-
podists. Except also landHsurveyors, and these shall pay the 2nd class in
their respective category.
Art. 6. The committee for assessing Patentes shall classify the various
shop-keepers, &c. and deliver to each a ticket expressing how much they
have to pay.
Art. 7. Parties who may not have received such ticket can apply to the
committee withiA eight days after the classification. In case of disagree-
ment about the amount payable the idterested party may appeal within
thirty days to i jury composed of five miembers, whose deoision shall admit
of no appeal.'
Art.* 8. There shall be two juries in the city of Buenos Ayres, and one
in each town or partido of the province ; the members being-named by the
respective municipsflities and electing their own chairman.
Art. 9,. The juries of appeal must be installed Before the 1st of April,
and at once tpmifaunicate with the classifying committees.
Art. 10. The committees shall before the 30th March submit to the juries
their respective lists, and the juries give notice in the public papers of the
time and place for hearing of appeals, at which, moreover, the compiittees
must also assist, to give any necessary information.
Art. 1 1 . After the term of thirty days the jury shall close its sittings and
send in the returns as amended to the Oficina de Patentees.
Art. 12. All Patentes must be taken out in the country districts before
August 30tb,:,and the Executive shall fix a suitable term in the city for
each profession^
Art. 13. Whoever violate this law shall pay a fine double the amount of
Patente, besides being obliged to take out the proper Pat^(?By GoOqIc
134
TA&IFF^. 4M9 .TiXI^S.
Art, J4. Bach coijmtry muoicipalitjr sbaU recipe 10 per ceirt. of the
proceeds of Patei^tes ii^ its distjricjt.
Art. 15. The Executive is authorized to exj^ead 5 pejf cent of the gross
proceeds and 20 per c^pt. of th,^ Q;ies ia,the coU^UoJxof the^tax.
C05TIIIBUCI0K. DraECTA.
Property Tax,
Art. 1. All landed or housebold propefty-in town or country shall pay
four per roil on its assessed value.
Art. 2. ProprieWrsrIvhose total estate is not w<>rth $20^000 m;(*., and
that they reside on same, are exempted Stovbl this tax.
TARIFF FOR LIGHTERS.
Loading^
B^llayi. •
P0W>8»
Baliija;.
PJXWfc.
AiwJbors, qq,,....
S34.
$44
Do.
Hav. sugiay, 13
15
Acid sulph.,
40
40
Do.
rockets. ii
1
Ba^es estra?ft.papep,
24.
3
Do.
starch i(|D, . 2
• 24.
Do. tobakpco,
10
12
Do.
Ung qq.;, 3^
44.
Do. twine, ....
2i
24:
, Do.
nails, .... 3^
44.
Do. N. A. wjck,.
li
14
, Do.
w. glass, cube ft. 3i
44
Barrels beer, ....
H
64
Do.
glass-ware ft., 1|
li
Do.. Braz. sugar,.
7'
8
Do.
indigo, >lue,@ 1
«i
Do. N. A.tar^
6
7
Do.
candles, (p) ]|
24,
Do. Swedish tar,
8
10
Do.
gunpowder, @ 6
6
Do. flour, ....
44
5
Do.
preserves, 8
10
Do. sugar, alpiste
>,6
7
Do.
dulce, .... 9
10
Do. Seltzer,
8
9
Do.
oysters, 2
24
Do. pimenton,
2
24
Do.
paper, 20 reams, 8
10
Do. restn.
8
10
Do.
N. A. chairs, 7
8
■Boxes tea %, . . . .
4
i
Do.
soiq), 2J
3
Do. tbco, grease,qq
. 3i
44 ■
Do.
wines, cognac^
Do. ink, blaoking,
24
3
- pickles, If
24
Do. raisins, fideos,
t4
H
Do.
champagne,liqr^2^
30
oogle
-tlCH^BE TlRtPFI^.
125
Do. gin, doz.
Do. sardines,
Bags rice,
Do. fariaa, . • .
Do. pimenton,
Do. corks, . . .
Balizaa. Pozos.
li ti
4 5
6 7
4 4^
^ H
Do. nuts,sugar,coffee5 5^
Baldosas, Havre, mil, 80 90
Do. Marseilles, 65 75
Do. Spanish, cart, 40 50
Bar r as, each, .... 3 3
Brooms, doz 2| 3
Bocoys, coal, .... 40 40
Do. lump-sugar, 25 30
Buckets, doz 4 5
Cables, qq 5 6
Do. do. .... 4 5
Coal, iron, ton 55 55
Cheese, Eidam, doz. .2^ 3
.Do. 12S f 1
Coke, ton, .... 60 1Q
Crockery, cask, If If
. Do. hampers, 30 35
Demijohns, 5 gals. 1^ 2
Do. 2J li IJ
.Do. 1 f f
Salt, fan 6 7
Spades, bundles 4 5
French tiles, mil SSOO 200
Fire-bricks, 150 150
Firewood, 100 pges 5 6
Hams, .... f 1
Hardware, canvas,
packiag, matches,
paper, and cigars,
per cube ft 2i 2^
Hemp, qq. • • . • 6 7
kei^ene, 10 gals. 3^ 4i
Machinery, iron safes, botadores and
Marble, ton
Oars, each.
Oil, @,
Oil in tins,
OHves, (p)
Balizas.
65
li
2
1
Paper estraza, ream, J
. Paint, (a) .... 1
Potatoes, @ .... IJ
Pots, qq 6
Posoa.
65
li
li
3
li
i
1
If
7
Pine-boards, 1000 ft. 65 75
Rolls, matting 6 7
Do. felpudo^, doz. 4 5
Do. tobacco, @ 1 1
R. cement, soda, qq. >2i 3
Railway bars, ton 70 70
Tlni^are, qq 4 5
Tubs, i doz 5J 6
Tanned hides, IJ ij
TfeWalla, cart, 40 40
Tablas, Braz. t inch 30 30
D5. 2 inch 50 50
Tablillas, .... 2i 3
Wodd, 1000 ft. 120 120
Wat,qq 3^ 4^
Wh^dt, lime, fan. 5 6
Wire, steel, qq. 4 4^
Zhlcfj'qq. 3J 4
pipes, aguardiente, 25 28
Do. empty. 11 |2
Do. abatidas, 6 6
Posts, 2 2
Do. half, IJ IJ
Perches 50f . by 1 Oin. 200 200
Peje-palo, bundles 5 6
Yerba, ParhaguA 5 6
Do. half sobs, 4 5
Do. Par|g.&R. G. 5 5^
Do. Misionera, 7 8
tirautes, at con^^ei^ti^ijal prices.g|g
126
TAAI7KS ASD TAXES.
Discharging.
From Custom-hooae.
Balixas.
Pozoa.
FiomBaiiBMa.
Animals, each, , . . .
$,80
$80
$80
Bones, ton,.,, . ,..,
70
70
70
Bone-ash,
55
55
55
Bales, hay,
20 .
25
25
Bales, wool, hair, [Provinces
i] 32
40
40
Bales, wool, [Buenos Ayres]
28
34
34
Canillas, mil, , . . .
20
25
25
Caracues
30
36
40
Chiguas, wool and hair.
If
If.
f
Chiguas, Santiago, . . . •
15
18
18
Deerskins,
i
i "
i
Horns, mil,
50
60
60
Hides, salted ox, • , . .
li
li
li
Hides, salted mares, . • . .
1
li
li
Hides, dry matadero, . , . .
If
H
If
Hides, dry, Spain andN. A.
1
H
i»
Hides, dry mare and calf.
i
i
i
Jerked beef, qq
2i
H
3i
Hoofs, ton,
100
100
100
Machos, mil, ....
200
200
20O
Pipes, grease and tallow,
24
30
30
Pipes iron, tallow • . . .
40
40
40
Pipones, tallow ....
40
40
40
Straw, bundles, ....
i
i'
i
Sheepskins, dox., ....
,4
4
4
Wool in bags, ....
a
H
li
Boxes tallow, 2qq
6
7
7
Boxes Mares' grease, 3qq.
8
10
10
Boxes mares' grease, 4qq.
12
14
14
Delays— After two days at the rate of $250 a day for 30 bales [B. A.]
In unloading the tQn is calculated at 221 1 lbs. ; in loading or in ballast the
ton has only 2000 lbs. In discharging matches, papef , hardware, packing,
glassware, cigars and brushes, the price is by the cubic foot English and
includes cart-hire to the Custom.house : in other articles the owner has to
pay the carts. The English ton measurement has 40 cubic feet, the French
52 English cubic feet, and lOQ feet English are equal to 117 Hamburg ditto.
Be-embarkation— mcienda $45, comestibles $30 per cart. Cargo abore
the Barraca bridge is charged 20 per cent, extrat, either loadiag or j
discharging. Digitized by VrrOOQ IC
MUKICU»AL XAXE9. 127
^ No complaint ?ill<med .beyoi»(i four days after delivery, of goods: all
complaints should be made to the lighterman, but the undersigned do not
. fMis^er for damage caused by fortuitous events.
Casares & Sons, Rodriguez & Sons, Guerreto, Hoevel & Langenheipi,
Seuorans & Fuzier^ Bfsrnal & Co., Neves, Bubio & Co., Nuflez, Noceti &
Tornquist, Bettolache &Co., Caranza, Camartino & Co., 6arri&Co.,(^arcia,
Berg^ann & Bickleman, McLean, Garay & Co., Ferrer & Co., Marti, PlA
& Co., Ascheri, Guimaraens, Solari, Laforgue,CurellBros.,Delfino,Dodero^
Agnese, Coelho, Dally, Martin, B. Curell & Co., F. Casares.
MtM€IPAL G.VS ATO) SERENO TAX.
1 . Mercantile houses, barracas, timber yards, wholeisale -stores, mills,
printing offices^ hotels, insurance offices, clubs, and theatres,: pay. $30 a
month for serenes, $40 for gas, and where there is no gas $15 fbr oil.
2. Bakers, hatters, baths, soap boilers, coach makers, brewers, druggists,
jewellers, ship chandlers, livery stables, and lithographers, pay as above —
. $20, $30, $12. " . . :. ,
3. Blacksmiths, coffee houses, upholsterers, apothecaries, watdimakers
chandlers, and cart owners, pay — $15, $25, $10.
4. Drapers, grocers, workshops, pulperias, butchers, and eating-houses,
pay— $10, $20, $5.
5. Private houses pay — $5, $5, $3.
6. Booms on the street pay— $2, $2, $2.
7. Houses ^ith two doors shall pay half for the second, and the same
for unbarred windows. Empty houses pay notliing, but, once taken, a part
of a month counts for a whole one.
PAROCHIAL DIVISION OP THE CITY.
1. Catedral al Norte. — ^From Calle Bivadavia to Paraguay, and from Paseo
. Julio to Calle Maypu.
2. Catedral al Sud. — From Calle Bivadavia to Chile, and from the river to
Calle Las Piedras.
• 3. San Telmo. — From Calle Chile to the Biachuelo, and from the Paseo
Colon to Calle Piedras and Barracas
4. CoTicepeion,— from Calle Mexico to Caseros, and from Calle Las
Piedras to San Jos6.
5. Monserrat, — From Calle Potosi to Caseros, and from Las Piedras and
San Jose to Sarandi.
6. San Miffuel. — ^From Calle Maypu to Calle Talcahuano, and from Cuyo
to Potosi.
^7. San Nicolas.-^Vrom Calle Maypu to Uruguay, and from Cuyo to
Charcas. ^ Digitized by Google
1^28 TAWrt?S^AIfD TAXES.
8. Socorro.— From Calle Paraguay tci thB Pobr6 Diablo, atid from Hueco
de Cabecitas to CdUe Uruguay.
9. A7ar.— From Tobre Diablo to the Arroyo Maldbnado, and from the
Ginco Esquinas to the" municipal boundary.
10. Piedad, — From C(ille Uruguay and Santiago del Estero to Ayacucho
and Sarandi, and from Calle Charcas to Potosi.
11. jBa/t^rtn^rd.— From CuUe Charcas to the Puente Alsina, and from
Calles Sarandi and Ayacucho to the municipal boundary at Piran's quinta.
Note. — ^It is proposed to form a new parish in North Barracas, embracing
also the Boca, and to divide the Balvanera parish, forming another new one
at the soutli-west quarter of the suburbs, between the Puente Alsina, Calle
Solis, and Calle Mexico. The Archbishop has given his consent for the
change as soon as the intended parishes be provided with churches.
RULES OP THE FACULTY OF MEDIQIKE.
The Faculty is composed of ten professors, eight substitutes, and a
seicretary. The School of Medicine is opposite San Telmo church.
The medical studies require six years. Besides these, the candidate for a
studentship must show certificates of having passed satisfactorily examina-
tions in Latin, philosophy, mathematics, chemistry, and physics.
The pharmaceutical studies are Latin, philosophy, matheihaUcs, physics,
chemistry, botany, and pharmacology. The medical student, after passing?
satisf^ictorily six yearly examinations, and two general examiaatibnsy
receives the diploma of Doctor in Medicine. The {rfiannaeeutical student
receives that of Licentiate in Pharmacy.
All those who wish to practise medicine or pharmacj in Buenos Ayres
must present their diplomas of Doctor or Licentiate in ^edieine or
Pharmacy of a Faculty or University recognised by that of this country.
The medical student must also undergo two examinations ; one before the
professors of anatomy and physiology, general pathology, materia medicB,
pathological anatomy, &c., obstetrics, &c., which lasts two hours; the
other examination consists of two practical cases of medicine and t\ifo
operations. The examinations are in the Spanish language, and are public.
The candidates pay as fees glOOs. If the candidate does not pass a
satisfactory examination half the amount is returned to him. and he cannot
present himself a&^aiu until six months have passed.
The foreign candidates for the pharmaceutical diploma^ without which
they cannot open a pharmaceutical establishment, must pass two examina-
tions ; one practical, for which he will hare to make six chemical and
pharmaceutical preparations ; the other theoretical. ^ j
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THK MeUTH OF THB FLATS. Ilf?
OHAP. XI.
THE MOUTH OF THE BIVBR PLATE
aud
PORT OF BUENOS A. T R E S .
THE AFFftOACH TO THE ElVBR.
The depth of this river increases from the spot where it is joined by its
two great tributaries to the sea, and the bottom is oozy, and in some places
rocky, to the meridian of Montevideo. From here it changes, and its
proximity to the ocean becomes gradually apparent, for the ooze is'mixed^
with sand ; as the mouth of the river is approached the sand is finer, and
mixed with shells and rocks, the northern bank only remaining oozy. The
rocks (tosca) are principally found on the southern coast, from the SaladiUo
to the little bay of Barragan. The bottom at this j>art of the coast is very
hard, and the water shallow, the width of the bay being two or three
leagues. The different bottoms of sand, shells and sand, and rocks and
sand, situated to the east of the meridian of Montevideo, may be considered
as an immense bank, known at its culminating point as the English Bank.
The bed of La Plata is full of banks aud quicksands, extending for more
tluin thirty leagues to the ea^t of its mouth, and from thence inwards^
obstructing its course and rendering the navigation to Buenos Ayres
difficult for vessels of a certain tonnage. We will again refer to tiiese
dangers in Vol. 11. The tinge of the water of the La Plata, produced
( by lime, extends for more than twenty leagues into the ocga^i^^^^ ^^ GoOQle
» ' i . : ' ^ ■ r
ISO THE MOITTH OF THE FLATS.
Islands.
It is only on the left bank they are to be met with, which is rocky , while
on the opposite side not a stone is to be found. The principal are Lobos^
S.E. of Haldonado; Gor^iti, in the same bay ; Fiores, east of Montevideo;
San Gabriel, Lopez, and Farallon, opposite Golonia ; Homos, north of these ;
Hartin Garcia, near the delta of the Parana : besides these there are several
rocky clusters more or less distant from the coast.
Banks.
The principal ones are the English (the most dangerous), the Archimedes,
Medusa, Chico, Nuevo, Big and Little Ortiz, Las Palmas, &c. As far as
Maldonado there are no banks, but from tiiat to Montevideo the Englisb
Bank must be rounded ; and if the south passage is taken Archimedes and
Medusa also : if Buenos Ayres is the destination all must be passed. To
reach Montevideo a pilot! is keldbm employed.; bat l^r^iy indeed are the
services of a pilot dispensed- with when going up to Buenos Ayres.
Formerly, before the 'cp^atiob Of tlie portf of Moatev^e^ ^^ Maldonado^
mariners preferred the southern shore, passing the English Bank, and those
bound for Buenos Ayres stopped at the port of Barragan. Such was the
dread inspired by the dangerous banks supposed, to b^ at the mouth of the
La Plata that seamen dubjtfed it «the sailors' hell,>> and the insurance on its
navigation was eq^l to t^t paid from Europe to its mouth, it being
considered a mira^ to escape. Few were the merchant vessels to be seen
bn its bQ9om, .^nd a war vessel i3\ever except in time of war. The ressels
most frequentmg it were; Spanish, but never above 500 tons. No vessel
fialledon it by nig^it, wli|ch was always passed at anchor, and the course
«teered was by the eastern sid;e 9f the Ortiz Bank; but, according as the
river became better knqwa, an^ ports sprung up, the fear inspired by the
banks decreased, and the navigation of the river made great progress, aided
by the exact and d^tstjipd ^art^ introduced, and the pilot service that was
organised. If we are to believe the writers and sailors pf the last century,
it should help to dissipate oar terr9r to k^ow that hurricanes were then less
frequent than forn^erly, npr w?re they so violent e^$ in the first years of the
river's discovery ♦ From tlike time^ that ports were made at Montevideo and
Maldonado, andt)^ northera shor^ of the river better known, navigation
by the southern side was completely abandoned, whether through the wanil
of good points of observation, or the few ports or harbors to be found along
it, or that but little was known of it, or the exact situation of Cape Sa^
iind.Maldo&AdQr0Uifed.tbe Spanish. y^s^eUW Aofd a^ew pps^gei tp ^e'
flioptl^of t«he hwki wiliiiig bjr pAraUete.35[ 4^. Sm. to 3j6deg, w^tU i^rr|ve4 at
tbe moridiaQ of Hontetvkleo, and thi^a making ff^F tbis por);, pi: Barragan, pr
jBiienos Ayre$, a^ the case nugbt be. . Tbis. course^ opce safely open^d^ it
has so conUnaed, until, with the^ eatabUsUing of so many lighthouses, the
river is now entered by the northern side.
Anchorage*
Wlierever the lead shows, that the bottom is oozy an anchor may be let
go, taking care, however, to give a wide berth to the banks, lest the ship
might drag on to them. With winds from the south the southern side is
preferable, from other points the nortll^rn is best. Large vessels amk ^et
as far as 'Montevideo,' While vessels^ drawing fifteen orntnateen feetof water
can fearlessly ascend as fhr as BuetfOs Ayres or the Hornos Island. As
shelter ft'om the N.N.E., E., and S^B. winds the best parts are Hornos^
Montevideo, and Maldonado, although the latter is not perfectly sheltered
from the S.E., which reaches the anehoragfe tbrongh the pa^ of Oocriti,
The Bay of Barragan, and the roads of Buenos Ayres, are sheltered from
S.W. ^vinds. Small vessels can anchor off Gape Santa Maria, at the entrance
of the Santa Lucia, and off Golouia, on the northern shore ; in the Tuyii and
Saladillo rivers, the Bay of Barragan, and the Riachuclo, near Buenos Ayres,
on the southern. Ships can anchor at Maldonado in six or eight fathoms ;
in the roads of Montevideo, four to six fathoms ; in the harbor, two to three
fathoms ; in the roads at Barragan, three fatlK)ms ; the roads of Buenos
Ayres, three to six fathoms ; near the city, two to three fathoms. Against
S*W. winds the anchdrage on the northern shores is best, against those
from the S.E. the others. Of all these anchorage grounds that of Maldonado
is the best, as the bottom is ooay, covered with sand. In the others the
bottom is mud, in which the anchor cannot hold during strong winds.
Lights.
The lighthouses of the La Plata in this part have considerably improved
of late years. At present there are five statrionary and five floating lights ;
the first-named are placed on tlie Island of FIore8,the Cerroof Montevideo,
Colonia, and the Custom-house of Buenos Ayres. The floating Ughtspoint
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out tHe following dangers: the Engllsli Bank, Pamela Qaicksands, Ifeir
Bank, Little Bank, and tbe roads of Boenos Ayres. We will gire in their
proper place detailed partie ulars of these lights, leaTing it as granted that
their combination greatly facilitates the entry and navigation of the rifer
during tbe night. The first light known in the Bio de la Plata was that of
the poop lantern of the Spanish frigate Loreto, lost off San Jos^ in 1792^
and placed on tbe Island of Flores. This light was afterwards removed, ia
1798, to the Gerro of Montevideo, experiencing a thousand vicissitudes^
until one light was established on the island, and another on the Cerro.
Beacons and Buoys.
There are many along th^ river, but complete confidence cannot be placed^
in their stability, as the force of the current often tears them away, or^
what is even worse, displaces them, for then, instead of acting as a warning
against danger, they lead to it. The principal beacons are those on Satt
Jo$6 Pmnt, at Montevideo, and at the Martin Garcia channel. The Bell
Buoy on the English Bank disappeared during a tempest, and has never beea
replaced.
THE POHT OP BUEJIOS AYRES.
The port is no better than any other on the river, the anchorage not being
good, in consequence of the softness of the bottom, which allows of the
anchors dragging when the wind blows from the N.E., this wind traversing
the roads iu an oblique direction, and rai^ng generally a heavy sea. The
anchoring ground is divided into the Outer and Inner Boads, forriied on one
side by the City Bank, and on the other by the Cumarones Bank, which is a
ramification of the great Palmas or Play a Honda Bank. The Port of
Buenos Ayres being but a very indifferent one by nature, and
hitherto neglected by the authorities, it is insuflBcient for the trade
of this vast emporium. No captain considers his ship safe whilst anchored in
these ofiBngs (it being impossible to call the «porti) anythiug else), as every
gale of wind from S.W. round to N.E. imperils his vessel. Many
schemes have been proposed for constructing a harbor and dockjs ; but as
yet nothing has been done.
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Ttn POBT OrSUEKOS ATRK6. 133
la the early part of 1869, Mr; Bell of Gl^sgew arrtved out for the purpose
of surveying the port, io company vfiih Mr. Millet of the same place.
After a minute study and survey, the plans were drawn up, and proposals
sent into Government for the purpose of constructing docks and building
warehouses. The plans have not been made public; but, in the month of
March, 1869, all questions being definitely settled, the Gova*nment
concluded the contract. A company for the purpose of carrying out the
same is being formed, having for its representatives Mr. John Proudfoot in
England and Mr. Edward Madero in Buenos Ayres. The enterprise is one
of the most important for the maritime commerce of the Port of Buenos
Ayres, and being in such good hands will doubtless prove a reality. In
Vol. II. of this Handbook a copy of the concession, with a full description of
the scheme, will be given.
Meantime, attention is turned to the adjacent rivulets and available
advantageous points as adjuncts for relieving the port; hence comeathef
importance of the Biachuelo, the Capitania of San Fernando and the Tigre,
and even Ensenada, which is eight leagues off. Thus the Port of Boenba
Ayres may be considered as eiitending from Ensenada to the tigre.
And the nautical observations and directions in this chapter must proVb
useful to those engaged in the trade of the Biver Plate.
The Outer Roads.
Consist of a channel half a mile wide and three to four long, stretching
H.W. to S.E. by E., between the City Sank and that of Las Palmas. The
water here is from nineteen to twenty-four feet deep, with a muddy bottom,
but at the eastern entrance there is a bar preventing the ingress of large
vessels of war ; on the bar there is only a depth of seventeen feet of water,
80 large vessels are obliged to remain outside. A good point for a large
vessel to anchor in nineteen feet of water and muddy bottom is four miles
distant from the mole of Buenos Ayres, with the tower of the Besidencia
bearing W.S.W. It is the nearest point of the outer roads where a large
vessel can lie. A little further north the depth increases one or two feet ;
this is also a good station, keeping in a direct line with the belfreys of
Saata Gatalina and San Nicolas, or marking them from the south 81 degrees
west. The tower on the Besidencia is the most conspicuous object on
shore, and is situated in tlie southern part of the city. This point is called
the Amarradcro, because in former times all European vessels anchored here.
Palmas Bank.
Is also called Playa Honda, is very wide, and is formed by the sa^d
driven down by the Uruguay and ParanA. On this bank the water
»gk
134 THK FORT OP BUBHOft ATUS^
iM>t shoal rapidly ; nevertheless, great care mtist be taken in sounding, and
not to pass sewnteen feet with a vessel drawing fifteen or sixteen feet.
The City Bank.
The bottom on this bank is hard, and the water shoals more rapidly than
on Las Palmas, and greater precantions must be taken to avoid groundings
The bar once passed the depth increases gradually, and the bottom becomes
softer. When a depth of eighteen feet is reached, in order to lie as near
land as possible, the anchor shovld be let go, when the bearings are as
follows : —
Custom-house, .... .... S. 38 deg. W.
Bocoleta Church, .... .... S. 64 deg. W.
Besidencia, . ... .... .... S. 3t)deg W.
Geu^rd Ship, .... .... .... S. 50 deg. E.
Distant y 2" miles.
' The best ground is in a depth of twenty ••three feet at low tide. It is in
kind of cbannel, outside of iflhich the watisr is stiaUower. This anchorage ia
situated eiactly in the cefntce 0f a litfe ibree miles lo6% from N.W. to S.E. ;
tMB is Where all the vessels in the OoCer Roads anchor, frotn the GuaiidShip
outwards. The Guard Ship is anchored to the li. 72 deg. £., froiti the
Custom-house, distant 3' 1*' miles. The channel alluded to is 3' b" miles
from the mole.
The Poz9 Anchorage,
Vessels having only fourteen feet draught will here find fifteen feet of
water, oozy bottom, the RocoleU Church bearing S.W. and the mole-head
diie south. To reach this anchorage it is better to take a pilot, although
it is not diflicult to get to it if the following directions be observed : —
Sailing towards it from the Outer Roads, the course to be steered is north
60 west, for a little more than two miles, and then edging away S.W. by
S. as marked on the chart, until the spot already referred to be reached.
Inner Roads.
They are also called Las Valizas, and extend over a short distance a mile
and a-balf long by three cables' lengths wide, running parallel to the coast
from S.S.E. to N.N.W. and formed by the City Bank, and the river side;
near the latter is a reef of rocks. To get in, vessels must not draw more
than thirteen feet of water, and a pilot is necessary. The holding is bad,
as the bottom is rocky, covered witli ooze, and anchors drag easily ; the
waves rise very high when the winds come from the S.E., and a storm from
THK PORT OF BUEKOS AYRBS. 13S
Ibis point generally driyes some vessels on shore. Good cables are
-absolutely necessary for anchorage in these roads in a storm from the S.E.^
as no help can be expected from the shore should tbey^ prove faoUj. la
«uch a case the river is greatly svroUenj and the vessels drive on to the
banks near the city, to the imminent risk of the lives of their throws. Some
river trading vessels often set sail and run for Las Coachas to the W. of
San Isidro point, which is sheltered from the S.E. wind. It must here be
i^peated that no vessel of tonnage should attempt to reach either the Pozo
w fnoer Roads without a pilot, as in order to ^eacfa them the channels near
the City and Gamaroncs Banks have to be gone through, which can only be
done through landmarks combined and laid down, of tbeeiifstence of which
af^eigneris geoierally ignorant. Besides, the isiarki laid down for the
giiidanceof pilots in the beginning of this ceotudry* are of BO use to those of
tib^ present day, in consequence of the change of positioii of om^y of th^
banks and channels, a change suflScieiitly apparent if the charts of the
Buenos Ayres roads, drawn out by the Spaniards in the last century, be
compared with those of Mons. Barral in 1831, ami Mr, Sidooy in 1856. To
the west of tlie Pozo anchorage, and a little nearer to the city, there is i
channel through which vessels drawing less than ton feet eight inches of
water can pass. It is a shelving of the City Bank, called Santa Cataliha
Canal, with l^ss wjiter than thePozo,and is mnch frequented by steamboats,
saving them about two miles distance; but the greatest experience U
required to pass safely through it.
Anchorage.
As both roads are exposed to the S.B. wind, and the high sea which it
raises when blowing strong; two anchors must be let go K.E.; S.W., with
plenty of chain, say seventy to eighty fathoms each. It would always be
well to select a spot free from ships to the S.E., so that if the wind should
"come frbm this quarter there may be no ships ahead to ron foul of you, an
accident very common in this port, and generally htiving fatal resoHs. With
the wind from other quarters the roiids are safe, and even during the
pamperos, the most destructive winds in the ftiver Platp, the water is
smooth. The bad weather often prevents communication between shipsand
the shore. The ships being anchored so fhr off, communication with the
shore is laborious and sometimes difltcult, days often passing before
passengers can land. For this reason, all vessels should .anchor as near
sliore as possible.
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ISfi THE PORT OF BUENOS ATBBS.
PrecauUom.
"When entering the Outer Beads great care must be taken to avoid the
many sunken vessels. Two hnllshave already disappeared, embedded in .
the mud, and the others may be considered as so many hidden rocks, often
"without buoys. The position of all cf them is perfectly known to pilots.
Care should be taken in shallow water not to run on the anchors of other
vessels, and when at anchor to ride with a long chain, in order not to run
on your own anchors. Accidents of this nature might prove fatal in case of
a fall in the river. Many captains prefer riding with a single long cable,
holding themselves ready to let go another anchor if required. As so many
vessels are constantly anchored in both roads, a good position should be
selected clear of other ships, in order to avoid fouling, an accident that
occasions many losses. The Pampero wreck in the inner roads is still visible.
Piers,
Before such existed passengers and goods were landed in carts, that went
out to meet the boats, at a distance of two or three cables' lengths from the
shore, but since 1855 there are two handsome piers built of wood and. iron,
of from 400 to 600 metres in length. That in front of La Merced is for
passengers, and that opposite the Custom-house is for goods. They arc,
nevertheless, not of sufficient length, for when the river is low, luggers, or
even boats, have not sufficient water, and the old system of carts has to be
resorted to. The depth at this part of the bank is little, in consequence of
the gradual accumulation of slime. The merchandise brought by large
ships, and also all that is exported, is carried in luggers destined for this
purpose.
Position of Buenos Ayres,
The geographical position of this city was determined by several
Spanish commissions at the end of the last century. They established an
observatory in the Cabildo, and put under contribution several celestial
phenomena, which aided by chronometrical comparisons with the meridian
of Montevideo gave as a result 34^ 36' 38"S.lat., and 52^ 1 1' 38" W. long.,
which shows but a slight difference when compared with Mr. BarraFs
observations, thus proving the correctness and delicacy with which the
Spanish geographers and astronomers of the last century worked. The
difference they found between the meridians of Montevideo and Buenos
Ayres was 2^ 10' 16". (See Second Memoir of the Hydrographical Direction,
published in Madrid, edition of 1809, page 7.) The variation of the needle
is calculated at 10^ N.E. for 1868 ; the annual decrease in the variation i&
estimated at five minutes.
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THE. POKT OF BUGflOS ATfRES. ^^^
e '
Floating Light.
The Guard Ship stationed to the south of the Outer Boads carries ever j
night a fixed red light, which can be seen six or seven miles off in fine
weather. The Guard Ship is painted black, and has three masts; her
principal duty is to watch orer the safety of the port. She is anchored in
sixteen feet five inches of water, at three to five miles to the north, 72^ east
of the Custom-house, and forty miles north 74^ west of the floating light on
the Chico Bank, so that steering this course from the Chico light the Outer
Boads are reached.
Port Lights
Everynighton the Custom-house tower a whit© light is placed, which
taken in conjunction with the floating light, points out an easterly course
lo the Outer Boads.
Tides and Currents.
The tides are of average regularity in the roads of Buenos Ayres ; whea
the weather is fine their mean rise is about three feet sir inches. The
rise lasts for about five hours, and the fell seven^ rannidg at the rate of from
one to two miles an hour, but when the wind is strong the tides -are very
irregular. Strong winds from the S.E. cause the river to rise, and from
the opposite quarter^ N W., to fell, so much tiiat the difference of level
between the rise and fall is often fourteen feet three inches. On occasions
of strong wind from the N.W., so low has the water often been that vessels
have been left almost high and 4ry . In Vol. 11. we vrill remark on this
difference of level which is about ten feet five inches.
Water Provision.
The vessels anchored in the roads generally supply themselves with water
fnm the river itself. The best point for this purpose is to the east of the
Ortiz bank, particularly during westerly winds when the water is smooth.
Provisions.
The Buenos Ayres market supplies the sailor with all kinds of provisions,
both for daily and sea use. Naval stores of all kinds can also be had from
Messrs. Herring, Allinson, and Eckell, and repairs can be effected in the
Tigre, at Messrs. Kay & Stephens', Marshairs and others, but at great cost ;
any aid rendered to vessels also is charged highly for.
Pilots.
There is a corps of pilots organized under the inspection of the Captain
of the Port, for the use of vessels navigating the Plate and its affluents.
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138 THE PORT OF BUENOS ATRES.
These men hare bj law the statas of marine police agents in matters
relating to their profession. They are obliged when entering a 5hip to
inform the captain as to the navigation l^i^,: the police relgnlUioos of the
rivers and roads, the system of lig<bts during the night, signals during hazy
weather, &c. All pilots are provided with the river police rules, in which
their duties ar6 set forth, and rolei fur navigation laid down whether for
night or day, sailing or steam vessels, ill order to avoid collisions or other
accidents. These rules are printed in live languages, Spanish, French,
English, German, and Dutch, for the convenience of navigators, and a copy
can be had free at the Port Captain's by any captain or master of a vessel^
in order that he may not be able to plead ignorance. It is not laid down by
the rules what remuneration the pilots should receive for their services,
which is arranged by the pilots themselves every year, it a meeting Weld
for the purpose, and the tariff once agreed upon it is shown to thd Port
Captain for his sanction. The tariff at present is more moderate than f^
has been for some years, as are also the port dues. In 1833 a foreign ship of
300 tons and fifteen feet draught of water, bound for Buenos Ay res, with
i^argo paid —
Pilcftage and entrance dues from the'Puoto del Indio, $420
Port piloti^e, . • . • 90
Port dues, ' • . . . .... .... 300
Inspection and st^unped paper, .... .... 30
Notary's chargesy .... .... .... \6
Pilotage outwards leaving the river, .... 420
Port pilotage, .... ..... .... 90
Port dues, .... .... .... .... 300
Stamped paper, health, and notary, .... 50
$1,718
These enormous expenses frightiened away foreign ships. A pilot from
Montevideo to the Punto del Indid cost $100 ; but has since been imraietiseiy
reduced.
THB RIACHUELO.
This rivulet forms a canal where the rain water from the surrounding
flats runs into, and to which thd waters of the River Plate penetrate during
ordinary tides. Its principal mouth, for it has two, is about a mile S.E. of
Buenos Ayres. If by dredging ajad other hydraulic worlts, the Riachuelo
was a little improved upon, it would, no doubt, be the real pott^ of the.
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PUIITA BE SAH I8TDR0. 1 39
capiul. Notwithstanding its shallow entrance and the olistructions of the
banks, it is the general refuge of small craft; and once inside there is
doi&piete shelter for all lieofessary bperatidiis. InSAe the Biachuelo there
is from fourteen to seventeen feet at lo^ \^at*r, but on the bar there is
6ften not more than three aioil a-half feet, hence reisels drawibg more than
ten and a-h'alf feet have to wail for a risen river to ^nter. !n this natural
port there is a spacious whaW on its left battV, where the numerous coasting
teissels discharge and take in their cargoes. On its right banks are the
saladeros, from whence are shipped the staple products of the country,
such as wool, hides, tallow, &c. Of course, there are also numerous shops
and taverns providing for the wants of the numerous maritime population.
Here also small vessels are hauled up for repairs of all kind. The greatest
inconvenience of the Biachuelo is the putrid state of its waters in summer,
owing to the refuse from the saladeros, the stench being overpowering in
warm weather. Years ago there have been projects ifor the canalization of
the Biachuelo, so' as to admit ships of all sizes, and the cutting out of docks
in its adjacent flats ; and intebruary, 1869, President Sarmiento directed
the Governmi^nt engineer to draw up plioms for cleansing the mouth of the
6iachuelo.
TQ£ BAIiRAGASi.
This is a point further inland on the Biachuelo, two miles from its mouth;
from whence there are two roads to the city, ai^d iv, connection with one of
iiiaich a bridge spans the rfver. Its inhal^itants are dependent on the
neighboring saladeros and produce warebou^s. It is now connected with
the city by the Boca and Southern railways.
ENSENADA DE LOS (^UV0$.
On pasising the Betiro Point, whibhisthe northern Mmit of th^ port of
Buenos Ayres, and where the present gas^norks are situated, the coast
recedes to the west, and forms the bay called a* abovei, having its northern
Kmit at Point Olivosor San Isidro, distant nine milfes from the Betijro, bear-
ing «. 40 d^g. W.
•
POINT SAN ISIDRO.
This is a «barranca» of some sitty-eight fe6t high. Along this coast, about
iyvo miles to the west of Buenos Ayres, may be seen the celebrated palace
of Bosas, called Palermo, where the Dictator used to reside in the summer
months. Some two and a-half miles further on may also be seen the
fashionable rising town of Belgrano. The coast is very shallow, and the
canal narrow. r^r^r-irrl^
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^** THE POar OF BDBBOS ATBES.
PALERMO BAKK.
I8«sandbauk .a the Ensenadadelos Olives, and near Which the rivulet
LlsTotr ?''*?• 7''««'-«t of tJ^ese is abreast of Point OUvos or
Fernet:. 7 » ™; f "'*"^' "^ °"'"''^" '^ ^o'^ •"^"y inhabitants. San
Fe nando s distant two miles to the N.W. from the former, and is cquaUy
well populated^ When the new wharves are completed, he port of Sa^
Fernando will be of much importance. F "« oau
RIVER CONCHAS.
Its mouth is about four miles distant from Point San Isidro. bearing N.W.
Ihi hfh V .!•''*' f"'* *=""'^"°» ^««^«»^ «f •" «^'«^«i. number! of
a^estoZtTl u''"'^^^^^^ «' «"«»«» Ayres during S.E:
to r. „?„ f f . ^^!.^''"!- ^*' '* ■'"'J"'''^^ ?••''<=*'«=•» «='P«"«n«« of the place '
to run in safely, as thechaunels wind through the great bank of Playa Honda,
and the sound.ngs are very irregular near the coast. There is a good
anchorage, with eighteen feet of water, in front of the coast of San Isidro,
but It requires pilotage to reach it.
LAS CONCHAS.
Is a small town, slmlUrto the previous ones mentioned, situated on the
right bank of the river of same name, about three miles inland. Its inhabi-
tants cultivate their lands and rear cattle. The Tigre may be called ite
port ; a place of rising importance and alfeady described.
DELTA OF THE PARANA.
Past the river Conchas the coaSt stretches to the northward, and its aspect is
entirely changed. Low islands, covered with wood, and hemmed in bv the
great flat of Palmas or Playa Honda, which stretches out twenty miles to the
S.E., having one end in the bay of Olivos and the outer roads of Buenos
Ayres, and the other at the entrance to the Uruguay, even as fiir as Martin
Garcia. All this accumulation of islands and banks,constitute the Delta of
the Paran<i. ,
PARANA DE LAS PALMAS.
Between the many islands mentioned above are the channels by which
the waters of the Paran4 enter the Plate. These channels are arms of tlie
river and their entrances bear separate names, the most prominent ones of
which are the Capitan, Mini, and the Palmas, the latter being of goad
***^''*- Digitized by Google
PARAVl GUAZV.
This is the name for the principal entrance to theParand, distant twentj-
ive miles from the river Conchas, bearing N.N.E. It is the onlj channel bj
which large vessels enter the upper river. The other channels, even vfhem
there is su£Bcient water, are narrow and tortuous, and hence are only
fi*cquented by coasters well acquainted with their windings.
LARA AND SANTIAGO BANKS*
These are to the B. and E.N.E. of Point Lara, and to the N. of Santiago. It
Is iy>t safe to pass between these two banks, as there is scarcely twelve feet
of water. There is but little difference on the outer bank, it having some
nine feet all over. The bay of Barrangan will be found between the banks
near Points Lara and Santiago.
QUILMES BAHK.
Oo passing Point Lara the S.E. end of this bank commences, and stretcbea
abreast of Buenos Ayres, hence one end is called the Quilmes Bank, and the
other end the City Bank. It is of sand, or sand and mud, which the lead
will indicate sufficiently distinct. ,
PAMPEROS.
In the River Plate, this is the name for the strong winds which come from
W. to S.S.W., and so called from their coming over the great plains called
Pampas. They may be classified into two categories — local pamperos and
{general pamperos. The first is of short duration, and even when it blows
strong the sky is clear. The general pampero, on the contrary, comes in
squalls and gusts. They haire their origin in the Andes mountains, and are
the greats storms of these latitudes. These are the pami)eros proper, called
«dirty» in the country, and%enerally lasting three days. In the first hours,
particularly' after noon, the pampero is most tempestuous, accompanied by
rain and thunder ; but when the sky clears, a fresh breeze follows, with fine
weather. When the pamperos come in force they last sometimes for fifteen
or twenty days, and vessels lying in for the river are much knocked about
bv the heavy sea which they raise. When the wind shifts to the S. or
S.^ and E .' in general it becomes clear then, and good weather is established.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
142 THB PORT OF fiUE?IOS AIRES.
But thougb the pampero is stormy and to be dreaded, it is not so terribteor
dangerous as the S.E. gales. If a vessel caught by such a gale 13 obliged to
enter the ri vef , ttiere is no oth^r resource, than the finchors, close to a bank , if
possible, but even close on shore there is no alternative. As the S.E. gales
always bring rainy cloudy weatl^er with them, it is difficult for the navigator*
to make his port. If a vessel Is thus caught outside the river, and pot very
far she is in danger of being driven on the coast of Castillos. Thus it is a
S.E. gale is more to be feared than a pampero, and experience shows that
the wrecks nearly always are caused by winds from the second quarter.
Ths Approach •( a Pafnp^rpf
€oming from Europe these winds are net generally met with until .lat.
30 deg. or 32deg. S. iSToached. If the wind freshens during the day from
N. orN. W , and continues so after mid^day, there is certain change of
weather; the change will be a pampero if the wind veers to the fourth
quarter, and a mist rises, with lightning in the S. or S.S.W. It is time
then to take in sails, and prep^e for thfi squall. The approach of these
storms is also indicated by any webs entangling in the shrouds of a ship, by
the prevulepce 0^ insectA Wought by the hot; w|m|^ bj the xise or faJU of
the rivey, Md the ^qffpiCM'mg heavip^g of U>e previous northerly winds.
The barometer sho\ys i!- by % great. fall.
The Commencement of a Pampero. •
The sudden coming on of a pampero in summer, is during clear weather
and a fresh breeze, when a vivid lightning appears in the S.W. If it is
daytime, and the squall may be seen coming, or if the wind suddenly shifts
to the N.W. or W., and thence to S.W., no time slioulji be lost in viakiujr
everything ready. A pampero may also come after a cc\lm d^y and hot
weather, and.at Umes follows after strong iN.E. winds, when the sky is
overclouded.
Duration of a Pampero,
If, after a pampero has set in, the wind is string from the secopd quarter,
and it continues to rain, it indicates a length(?ned duration. The weather
will not settle >yithout many squalls from the S W., which will lighten the
atmosphere. If, after the rising or setting of the sun, there is a lull in the
wind, it denotes a subsidence or change, and though it may blow strong
afterwards it will not last long. When a pampero is about to cease, the
wind veers to the W., and the atmosphere clears i|p; the land breeze will
take its place if it be morning, if evening then the N.E. or S.E. sea breeze.^lc
SEl BRREZES. ' H2
' * • • • I
Ia^8^^iBeJr< ptn^ierofj are but.of siiort duration, but ju winter tjiej some*
tiae94a9tiong.; occasionally, thejr pass round to the S.B. and then render
the coag,t3 obscip^ Durinjg the nights it does not blow ^ strongly. These
paia.pero3 cleaijse the atmosphere, as the N,W. wipds in the meridian of
Spi^in, and generally there i^ a clear sky while they last.
uTurbimadan or Squaib.
Such is the summer pampero called, and ^t times it bursts with terriCc
violence, though, happily, but of short duration. If a slijp i^ under sail
wh^n indications qf such v^ squall is seen, it may be prudent not only to have
ttie smallest possible canvas on^ l)ul also to dip the upper yards, without a
fiioiuent^sdtluy. <d\i 1828,ii sajs Captain Fit^roy, «we Qarae very near to
be dismasted and capsized during a pampero, although the sails were all
J owe red or close-reefed ; it is therefore wise to take immediate precautions
when the indications appear. U may be that such a squall as we then
experienced may not again be felt for thirty years. Twenty pamperos out
of Ihirtj are nol dangerous, and some are only ordinary storms pf short
duration, and whose advent need not be feared. Yeprs may pass without
any very terrible pamperos occurring, from 1828 to (833 there were none
of very great violence, but in the latter year we had three pf very great
force, w ?iearly always when a pampero is about to cease, the wind
subsides or veers to the southward. Sometimes these storms e\tendout ta
sea, even beyond the latitude of Santa Catalina. Jf they come with clear
weather, they last longer than when the sky is overcast. But in the Plate,
and outside its entrance, the winds are rery variable.
The Summer Season.
During the fine season, which Is from September to March, N.E. winds
are prevalent; the. atmosphere is hazy, and the sky covered with clouds of
undefinable formations. As the river is approached,* the winds will be
found to. go round to the E., and at times blowing fresh from the I^.E., with
rain and dark weather. Inside the estuary, in good weather, the wind
generally will be foupd to pass round the compass in twenty-four hours. A
gallant-sail breeze blows from th^.S.E. in thQ evening, replaced by a similar
one from the N.E. at night, followed next day by a light wind from the
westward or a calm, gradually going round to the S.
ttVirazon^n or Sea Breeze,
This is the name for the breeze which has just been mentipned. When
it is not prevalent; or baffled by winds from N. and N.W. a c(turbonada»
i44 THB PORT OF BUE1I08 ATRES*
from the S.W., more or less strong, must be expected before theseabrtexes
are settled. If it is bazj from sunrise until eight or nine o'clock in tlie
morning, the avirazoni) is pretty sure to follow. When the weather ia
settled, the wind in the morning is generally N. or N.N.W., moderate
breeze, until ten or eleven o'clock in the morning. Then commences ^
fresh breeze from outside, from E.S.E. to E.N.E., gradually lessening after
sunset, until near midnight, when it generally becomes a calm. Froni^
midnight until dawn it goes round again to N. and JX.E., and again traverses
the same course during the day. Thus, in general, land breezes are
prevalent at nights, and sea breezes during the day, until the equilibrium
x)f the atmosphere is upset. The Spanish pilot, Don Claudia Vila, thus
describes the weather of the River Plate : — «Good weather generally. lasts
£fteen or twenty days. In the mornings northerly winds Uow strong and
warm, increasing with the day, and at noon the sky is overcast and hazy.
Soon after, a squall appears forming in the fourth quarter, with another in
the S.,both sending forth vivid lightning. Ordinarily the changes extend
-over two days, during which more or less rain falls, the atmosphere is
charged, and heavy bUck clouds are driven to and fro by the available
winds prevailing. After this and a heavy thunderstorm, the sky is clear as
a bell all over the third quarter, when a pampero begins to blow, bnt which
only lasts for the day, the wind passing rapidly to the second quarter with
serene weather.)) Sometimes during ordinary weather, instead of a^
clouded sky, there is rain and fresh winds ; but it is not easy to foretell from
whence the clouds or wind will come. If from the N., bad weather is
likely to follow ; and if the wind does not go round to the south, even
when it looks clear, the good weather will not then be of much longer
filtration. The more overcast becomes the sky, and the more it rains and
blows from the N., the stronger it must blow from the S. to clear the
lieavens. During the warm months of summer, when it does not rain much
to refresh the earth and atmosphere, the northerly wind is suffocating for
man and animal,, and the inhabitants attribute baneful influences to it.
While it lasts the bai*ometer is low, and continues to fall as it freshens^
which may be for three days ; the atmosphere is charged with electricity,
and it ends nearly always with a gale, when the wind veers to S.W., and
the equilibrium is renewed. Near the full and new moon there is generally
a breeze from the S.E., with some rain ; at other times the wind continues
from the N., but not so strong as that from tlie S.E., and with a higher
temperature. The pilots of the Plate say that S X winds will prevail if the
declination of the moon is southward, and N. winds if the dip of the moon
be northward ; in the latter case, N. winds will nearly always go round to j
Digitized by VjOOQIC
WINTER SEASOT*. ,145
K.E. if it be dry weather, but if there be rmn or dew, then it is inclined to
be N.W. At times it freshens up strong, accompanied with squalls, and
runs round to S.W., clear weather : this wind brings a high sea, followed
soon by a calm.
The Summer Season in Buenos Ayres.
According to the observations of M. Thoyon, of the French navy, the
winds are lightest in these parts from December to March, as also more
regular than during the other months of the year. It is usual for the
Jbreeze to pass in the evening to the N.E., N., and even N.N.W., blowing
strong from the latter point in the morning, but eventually running to N.
^r N.N.E., and subsiding into a calm about eleven o'clock ; in the afternoon
it revives from the E. or E.S.E., until dark, when it returns again toN.
The pamperos, or S.W. winds, are very rare during these times. In summer,
4^ in winter, N.W. winds are warm, rainy, and disagreeable ; whilst the
IS. winds, after their first stormy advent bring bracing weather and a clear
atmosphere. Easterly winds are cold and wet, ^zlept the sea breezes in
summer. Westerly winds give dry days and agreeable weather. Summer
is the worst time to be in the roads of Puenos Ayres, because the S.B.
winds are generally fresh during the day, and cause an awkward sea,
rendering harbor work and communication with the shore rather
difficult.
Winter Season.
The prevalent winds at the mouth of the Plate from March to September
^e W. and S.W., bat inside they are generally from the fourth quarter. At
this season, when the weather is very good, the wind goes round with the
sun as in summer ; but this only happens perhaps once in a fortnight. In
general the wind is from S. to E. or from N. to W., blowing more or less
strong guccessively from these quarters. N. yclnds bring rain, thunder, and
lightning, S. winds bail, and those from the E. h^avy rains. If the wind
follows round with the sun, the weather is settled; but if it shifts inversely,
then bad weather and strong winds may be expected. Pilot Vila savs:
<cln i^iuter, if the wind comes ffom N.E., increasing, and remaining'fiied
Z Digitized by vJuOQlC
f<4 THE PORT OP BUENOS ATEKS.
for one or two days, with thick weather, it is dangerous then to navigate
the river without experience, especially as the islands and coasts at the
entrance cannot be made out, whilst the current is setting in strong. After
Tenting its strength from the second quarter, the wind passes to the first,
without ceasing to rain ; it remains there for a day or two, settling in the
N. on the fourth. At the time when it enters this quarter there wiU appear
a black horizon from the S.E. to W.N.W., then a clear space appears,,
anda strong pampero will i)egin to blow on the instant, clearing the sly
before it. This wind continues from S.W. to W.S.W. for five or si\ days,
clear weather and light clouds, and at the same time the current from the
river begins to set out strongly. The pampero will be followed by winds
from the second quarter, which bring ou rain agaiq ; before long it shifts
to the first quarter, and then to the fourth, to be followed again by a furioui^
pampero, but which will not last long, and brings settled weather.)^
Although S. winds are more frequent and of longer duration in winter
than in summer, and though N. winds generally prevail in summer, yet, at
times, they occur from the opposite directions. During winter, S. winds
are persistent storms, whilst in summer they are shorter, though often
strong and violent.
Winter Season in Buenos Atjrcs.
In these roads winter is preferable to summer, because the common winds
are S.W. to N.W.. which leaves a smooth river and easy communicatioa.
M.Thoyon made the following observations on this season : — u The pamperos
are most frequent from June to October, otherwise there are fresh and
varijible breezes, with many days of calm, rain intervening between these
changes. A strong breeze from the E. is almost sure to be followed by a
stronger one from the W., and riV^ vcrsa^ whilst the weather will not Settle
until the wind remains in either N. or S., according to where it commenced.
Thus, a breeze that springs from the W. passes to S.E., freshening up
when it reaches E. or N. E., will leap to the N.W. with a squall, returning
again to W. ; but the weather will not be good until the breeze springs up
again from ?(.» It may be remarked as traditional among the inhabitants
of the Plate, that about Santa Rosa's holiday, which is at the latter end of
August, there is always a storm : the hurricane of that period in I860 was
terrific, and twenty vessels were lost in the roads of Buenos Ayres and
Montevideo. Digitized by GoOgk
BAlflS. i 47
During autumn and winter, more especially at the mouth of the riTer and
on the Ortiz Bank, fogs are of frequent occurrence. Don Miguel Lobo, of
the Spanish navy, thus speaks of them : «If at new moon, during autumn,
the weather is hazy, with light S.E. winds, it is likely to last so for the
whole month, thickening as the moon wanes, but disappearing for a short
time at nine or ten o'clock in the morning. Sometimes at sunrise .the fog
seems gathered in the first and second quarter, but it spreads rapidly over
the horizon, envelopiug everything iu more density than usual, and is later
in clearing up. At these times fine weather is enjoyed ; and, if, during the
fog, it is a little humid, when that clears up, no better weather could be
wished; about mid-day a light sea breeze sets in, going round to the N. later
on. This most agreeable weather in the windy climate of the Plate is
interrupted occasionally by a strong S.E. gale, which lasts a few hours
only, and is shown by a slight fall in the barometer, which, it should be
remarked, stands high when the fojrs are most dense and frequent. After
this weather generally follows S.W. winds, commencing in the W., the
barometer beginning its fall twenty -four or thirty hours before the change
occurs.)) Inside the river fogs are not so general, as in Buenos Ajres they
appear seldom but for a few hours.
Bairn.
These are very irregular in the Plate, but are more so in autumn and
spring than during the rest of the year ; but when it does rain, more water
falls than in many parts of Europe. It is remarked also to be more plentiful
during day than night, which is the reverse of the other hemisphere. The
dews are also very heavy in these regions, equal indeed to a light rain iu
some parts of the world. It is not less surprising the dampness which
prevails at times in the Plate, being such in Buenos Ayres that it affects
metals and furniture, and rooms fronting to the south have damp floors and
walls. According to SeAor Azara, it is a sign of rain when a bank of clouds
rise on the western horizon about sunset. Heaviness in the head when
northerly wind prevails, also indicates rain, and lightning appearing in the
S.W. In the city of Buenos Ayres it is a sure sign of rain if the north coast
of the river is visible. ^^.^.,^^^ .^ GoOgk
148 THE PORT OF BUE^IOS ATRES.
Eefraetion.
There «Fe times, mostly during westerly widcU, when the river presents
some strange examples of refraction. It is the general belief in Buenos
Ayres when the coast of the Banda Oriental is Steen from that city that a
change of wiealher is at hand. This refraction is not always the same, as at
times it permits one to see the tops of the hills of San Juan, which are
some thirty-sii miles off to the MN.E., whilst at other times the islands of
the Param!^ and the coast between Golonia and Martin Garcia are visible.
During such weather it is diflScult to make any nautical observations, and
impossible to regulate any chronometer in the- roads of Buenos Ayres. What
has been stated concerning tlie winds, both outside and inside the Plate,
must be considered as usual or general ; but they may happen to the
contrary, ^s they are so variable that no absolute rule can be set down as to
cither their point or duration, and the experience of successive years may
be entirely reversed some seasons.
The Barometer.
Although in the River Plate the rise and fall of tlie barometer are not
v^ry great, nevertheless its indications are almost always correct if
i-onsulted carefully. In settled weather its highest point is 760 milimetros,
and its general range is within I. 3m. to this in ordinary weather, but muck
more when severe changes occur. In the months of July and August the
barometer is highest, and in that of June it is lowest. Its highest is during
winds from S.E. to iN.E., when it reaches even 778ii. If the wind rounds,
to the N., the mercury will fall, and will continue so until ft. W. blows.
W. and S.W. winds produce the lowest barometer : thus it is that before
a strong pampero the barometer will fall to 746 or 744, and even to 741,
but ordinarily 7i6 is below the gradation of the River Plate. The rising
of thq glass when the wind is S. W. indicates that it is about to cease or
ohange to S. A high barometer, overcast sky, but red at sunset, threaten-
ing aspect, with distant lightning, a rising river and a strong current
setting in, more especially above the Ortiz Bank, are all signs of a coming
S. E. gale. From whatever point a storm comes, or if the weather is
murky, the barometer falls ; but no sooner has it blown over, and the weather
cleared^ than it rises again. If it has set in for bad weather, the barometer
remains lew, until the wind be S.W., when a clearing pampero sets in:
ft is the same after some hours of great heat. In Buenos
Digitized by ^
i&5\^i
TEMPERATURE. 119'
barometer falls with E. and S.E. winds, but soon rises if they die out, and
will not- again fail if the breeze does not spring up from the W., and
then, if good weather, its change is but very little. If W. winds
continue, and the barometer still falls, then it will blow again from the E.
In general the barometer announces easterly winds by rising, though they
may be fresh breezes, and westerly winds by falling ; but storms or gales
of wind, from whatever quarter, are always indicated by a fall. According
to the observations of Fitzroy the river is low when the glass is steady, the
gradation at such time being 29.9 English (or 758m.) ; and he never noticed
it to be above 30.3 (769m.) or lower than 29.4 (745m.)
Electricity.
In summer, or indeed it might be said, during the whole year, thunder-
storms are very frequent ; so much so that perhaps the River Plate
experiences more of them than any part of the world. They often cause
damage to vessels, houses, and churches ; but such accidents are not of such
recurrence as on^ might expect from the vividness and rapidity of the
lightning. Sefior Azara states that during a N.W. storm on the 2 1st
January, 1793, thirty-seven thunderbolts fell in the district around Buenos
Ayres, killing nineteen persons.
Temperature,
It is of common experience to have in the one and same day a touch of
the four seasons of the year, such is the extreme and rapid variation in the
temperature. And though such sudden changes may affect the health, still
it is certain that the climate of these parts of South America is excellent,
never suffering from very extreme cold or warmth In Buenos Ayres the
highest thermometer in summer is 30, and the lowest in winter 2 above
zero, some rare instances having brought it down to zero : snow is also
very seldom seen in these regions. The average temperature of Buenos
Ayres is one or two grades higher than that of Montevideo, probably to be
attributed to the proximity of the latter to the sea, and some other
topographical differences. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ GoOgle
t&O TH£ PORT OF BUEHOS ATUCB.
Tides.
Captaiu Hey wood says of the tides: — «The tides of the River Plate are
far frombeiag regular, the run of the current being so uncertain invelocity.
duration, and direction. It is, therefore, impossible to base any calcula-
tions upon them, so that the lead has to be used for ascertaining both the
soundings * and the running. When it is calm weather the currents
generally are not strong, and set m or out pretty regular. The currents
always Tary with the wind ; thus, they run eastward along the northern
coast of the river when the wind is N.E., but set in, westward, strongly
along the southern shore during a S.W. or pampero, the water rising
amazingly : both these currents produce the contrary effect on the opposite
shores. The river is lowest during N.Pl.E. or N.N.W. winds, and at such
times the current running out is on the south shore, but generally does not
exceed three knots an hour; on the northern it is never very strong.»
Oyarvide, during a long cruise and many anchorings about Cape San
Antonio and Sanborombon Bay, up to Cape St. Mary, gives it as his opinion
that the tides at the mouth of the River Plate are generally regular, being
only disturbed by heavy storms and high floods, so that the irregularity,
caused by the wind, concerns more the inside. He states that in the
anchorage of St. Clement the tide rises six feet, running N.W. for flood, and
S.E. for ebb. At the Rodeo anchorage it rises six feet five inches, and runs
N. for flood and S. for the ebb. Off the tosca shores of Point Piedras it is
high water full and change at llh. 15m., rising six and a-half feet, and
running N..\.E and S.S.W. In the port of Paloma (Cape St. Mary), the
tides rise regularly five and a-half feet. At Maldonado, the highest rise
during ordinary weather is six to seven feet, running S.E. for the flood and
N.W. for ebbing. It should be remembered, nevertheless, that in all these
ports if north winds continue long the rise is not so great, and, on the other
hand, if strong south winds set in tliere will be two feet more water, evem
exceeding that at times, outside winds always causing higher tides.
Tides in Buenos Afjres.
M. Thoyon, of the French navy, remarks that the tides at Buenos Ayres
are more regular than might be supposed, and pretty accurately ascertained
if the observation of the weather be attended to. He states that the flood
sets in generally for five hours t\*enty-one minutes, and the ebb seven hours
five minutes : high water full and change at 7h. 47m., ordinary/rise^eMp
LOW TIDES. 131
feet eigfat inches. <(CoiDpariQg obsenrations,)) says tfae same author, «and
taking into account the prevailing winds, which, undoubtedly have an
influence, the irregularity of the tides is not so considerable as generally
supposed. It will be seen, though the difference be not much, that witk
outside winds, such as N.E. toS.E., the flood will commence earlier than
the calculated hour, succeeded by a proportionate longer ebb : and as
ordinarily the flood is of shorter duration than the ebb, it is easy to deduce
that the flood will set in earlier and be of longer duration during N.E. or
S.E. wind, but it does not much affect the succession of tides. The flood
makes in undisturbed during N.W. to S.W. winds, and the ebb is not
affected if it does not blow strong from the 8.W. As has been stated, the
tides are pretty regular with ordinary winds from all quarters, but more so
when the wind is E. or N., even when these blow fresh. The wind has
more influence at hifeh water, in checking the ebb, than during the flood;
therefore when it blows from N.E. round to S.W., the water is dammed in
longer, whilst the Parand and Uruguay continue to discharge, so that the
consequence is a much higher water and a later ebb. The reverse of thi«
occurs with winds from N. to W. The difference in the rise of water at
two consecutive tides is rarely more than three and a-half feet; but on
some occasions, when the wind has been the same for several days, the
difference has been known to be ten or eleven feet, and with N. and W.
strong winds the difference lias even been twenty feet — the water falling
from thirty feet two inches to ten feet four inches. But these are very
rare occasions, and it requires a combination of circumstances to produce
them. As a rule, the rise and fall is not more than nineteen feet eight
inches, and not less than six feet eight inches, giving ten feet eight inches
as the average. »
Low Tides.
Very low tides are occasioned by strong winds from N.W. to S.W. Im
1792 such a wind lasted three consecutive days, and the consequence was
to leave the great River Plate nearly dry inmost parts. During the Inde-
pendence War an extraordinary event happened in this respect : the river
was so low that the Spanish squadron anchored in the outer roads blockad-
ing Buenos Ayres were left aground, and the bank between the two roads
appeared dry out of the water ; the Argentines seeing this passed over
some artillery to attack the squadron, and opened (ire on a brigantine
which was almost on her beam ends ; but that moment the water^egan to
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
1S2 THE PORT OF BUEPIOS AYRKS.
4
rise, and they had to retire. So fast indeed did the flood flow in that, by the
time the artillery got back to cross the inner roads, only the horses' heads
appeared above water. SeUor Azara remarks : — The River Plate may be
considered a gulf of the sea, though it preserves the freshness of its water
twenty-five or thirty leagues below Buenos Ayres. The strong tides of the
southern coast do not prevail here, and the water does not rise or fall
according to the floods in the river, but is mostly affected by the winds,,
thus E. or S.E. wind will cause an additional rise of seven feet.
General Movement of Waters.
In regard to this M. Duperier remarks : — .«Twt causes affect the move-
ment of the waters of the River Plate ; one is the proportionate strength
and duration of local winds, the other. It is not certain, but presumed, is
attributable to the prevailing winds, whether along the north shore or from
the south at the mouth of the river. Easterly winds, and the adjacent
points, will always cause the water to rise alongthe whole river ; northerly
winds produce low water in the left channel, and high water in the right
channel. Winds from W. to S.W. will cause the water to fall in the whole
river, as far as the Ortiz Bank, except in a part near Colonia, where the
water rises in the left channel. It is true that the extent of this rise or fall
will depend much on the force of the wind, but the pressure of such a
mighty body of water is sufficient to move the current from one channel to
the other. Respecting the rise and fall which are without any apparent
local cause, it may be said they are common to the whole river. Though
these effects are well known, it is not easy to ascertain their immediate
cause ; if observations were taken at the one and same time at several points
of the river — say Montevideo, Colonia, Martin Garcia, Buenos Ayres, and
the south extremity of the Ortiz Bank or Point Indio — it might be possible
to arrive at some solution of this phenomena, especially if added to the
experience of many years.)) As yet, however, the pilots of the river are
content with knowing by experience that always when fresh northerly
winds blow, or N.W., even also N.E., the river falls considerably, and*
the current runs to the S E. and S. ; and when pamperos or S.E. winds
prevail, then the river rises, and the waters run S.W.. or N.W., according
to the channel. But there are occasions when, without wind or any visible
cause, the river rises and falls considerably. It may be these are owing to
high tides out at sea, or perhaps to floods in the two great affluents, the
Parana and Uruguay; if the latter, then fresh water ouglU to flow in tlmlp
PILOTS. 1 5*
•ehtrc of the river, leaving the shores to brackish water. The movements
•f the water depends also on the shiftings of the breeze. However, by
attending to the rising and falling of the river, and noting the direction of
the current, the change of weather can be predicted almost to a certainty.
Before S.E. wind» running along the shores, the river begins to rise in the
roads of Buenos Ayres. Many hours before a pampero sets in, and some-
times a whole day in advance, the water rises in the port of Montevideo.
When the waters make eastward, shunning the northern shores, then N.E.
w^inds may be expected. A S.E. or S.W. gale may be expected if there is a
rush of waters in, and the actual rise of water will indicate more or less the
force and duration of the approaching storm: it has been known to rise
twenty-one and a-half feet. The lowest river is always with the wind
ft'om N.R.E. or N.N.W. which produces an outward current, felt the
strongest along the southern shore, but seldom etceeding three or four
knots an hour : ordinal y tide currents are from one to one and a-half knots
an hour. Within the harbor of mionte / ideo, if the water rises rapidly when
a strong pampero blows, it continues so for two or three hours, and then as
rapidly retires, producing a current against the wind, which in its turn
causes a cross sea very annoying to vessels, especially those near the mole.
During N.E. breezes the waters runup along the northern channel, but it
has the inverse effect in the opposite channel. With tlie wind from N.E. to
S.E. the waters run in a westerly directian, causing a slight rise as far as
the meridian of Montevideo, but much more so above the banks inside the
river.
Cyrrents.
As has been stated, these are not regular within the Plate, generally
following the direction of the wind. Many times they indicate in advance
a coming wind: thus, if the water rises longer than during ordinary flood,
and it is calm, or wind from N. by way of W. toS., then a N.E. or S.E. may
be expected.
Pilots.
These are taken in at Montevideo if the vessel calls there, or at the
lightshipoffPointlndioif she enters the Plate alone. There are always
pilots in the lightship ready to board any vessel making signal for such.
Though these parties are experienced and acquainted with the channc^lg
1^4 THE FORT OF BUEHOS ATRES.
captains should not always place blind confidence in them, bat keep a
Tigilant look out, consulting their charts, and taking all precautions with
the lead, Ac, whilst passing the most dangerous channels. Hence, these
pilots are looked upon more as advisers than trusty guides; therefore, when
the position of a ship is doubtful, and it is seen the pilot is not fully up to his
business, then it is better to let go the anchor at once. Yet the rate of
these pilotages are high enough, caused probably by the incomplete
directions respecting the hidden dangers of the river, its uncertain and
irregular soundings, as well as the fear of the traditional pampero. But
up to Buenos Ay res or the Hornos Islands the depth of water is such that
vessels drawing eighteen feet may ascend in safety by paying attention to
the general directions given. It is safe and advantageous to let go the
anchor anywhere the lead indicates soft bottom, and the pilots avail them-
selves of this very often.
The Route from Montevideo to Buenos Ayre$,
Since the establishment of lightships off Point Indio and the Chico Bank,
this route is. easy enough. Nevertheless all foreign ships take in pilots,
more especially those drawing sixteen feet four inches of water, as the
channel in some places is narrow and tortuous, particularly at the S.E.
extremity of the Ortiz Bank. It must be borne in mind also that these
banks, which impede the navigation of the Plate, are continually shifting and
altering in their forms and depths, hence tliey cannot be known for a .
certainty except by the pilots, who have to sound and ascertain the channels
continually in conducting ships under their charge. Vessels drawing less
than ten feet of water may cross tiie Ortiz Bank anywhere, coming from
Montevideo to Baenos Ayres, as there is always ten feet eight inches over
it. As a rule, when the lead gives a soft bottom mixed with sand, it is
indicative of approaching a bank, and the harder it gets the nearer is the
bank. Care should be always takcff to have the anchors ready to let go at
any moment. There are three channels between Montevideo and Buenos
Ayres, — the North Channel, the Middle Channel, and the South Channel.
The North Channel Is between the northern shore of the river and the
Ortiz Bank, and only vessels of fourteen to fifteen feet can navigate it. The
Middle Channel, which is formed between the Ortiz and Chico Banks, is the
deepest, and therefore the most frequented. The South Channel is
between the southern shore and the Chico Bank, and is available to vessel*
of sixteen feet. To pass through the North or South Channels there^ould ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
MIDDLE CBAMHBL. 1&6
be a steady breeze, aft or on the quarter, bence tbey are only used by
coasters, if it can be helped.
Tlie North Channel.
If circumstances oblige a vessel to take this channel, and supposing the
starting point to be three or four miles S. of the Cerro, it should steer
W.S.W. for a time, endeavoring to ascertain the run of the current. To
clear the PanelaRock, which should always be passed on the starboard
side, keep the light of the Gerro nothing to E. of N.E. i E., until it is in
line north and south with Point Espinillo, then put the helm to W.N.W. ^N.,
so a^ to avoid the shoals of Santa Lucia and the Barrancas de San Gregorio.
Approaching Point San Gregorio, which is the extremity of the high land,
much care should be taken with the soundings. If more than t\¥enty-nine
feet of water is found, it shows the vessel to be near the flat to the west
of this point, and she should be put to port until the water shoals to
twenty-three or twenty-five feet, then put her head to N.W. J W., the
Point bearing E.N.E., distant eight miles. Steering N.W. i N. the water
will gradually diminish to eighteen feet in front of Point Cufr6, which
should be passed within about two miles. When this point bears N.E.,
put the ship's head to V , keeping a moderate distance from shore, until
the west point of Sauce is made, which is easily distinguished by the trees
crowning its top. Once here, to give a good berth to the rocks called the
Pipas, which are in mid-channel, and partly above water, and to pass
in siiore of them, the coast must be approached pretty near, until the rocks
bear a point and a half or two pomts to port ; then follow the edge of the
Ortiz Bank according to soundings, until Colonia appears about W. by N.,
and the vessel then bears for the city. The soundings, which have been
uniform at about eigtiteen feet, will now deepen to twenty-nine feet in the
narrow channel between Point San Pedro Alcdntara and the Pescadores
Bank. Making Buenos Ayres whilst steering W.S.W. , or somewhat more
S., twenty-one feet of water will be found in the Outer Roads.
. . The Middle Channel.
Before establishing the lightship off Point Indio it was necessary to make
out that point for certaihty before attempting either the Middle Channel or
the South Channel. Although the facilities which ^^e soundi^a^i^^tti|^
156 THE POUT OP BU£!lOS AYBES.
nature of the bottom indicate are very great, still the land is so low
hereabouts that this lightship is a great boon to those navigating the Plate^
and forms an excellent starting point for both channels, either at day or
night. The first thing after leaving the roads of Montevideo is to make for
this lightship, steering W S.W. i W.; but the currents in this part of the
river are such that the bearings of the Cerro should be carefully watched
as long as it is in view, until the lightship be made oat, and the ship's
course be thus ensured. The soundings are also a good guide. Soon after
leaving the roads twenty-three and a half to twenty-five feet will bef bund,
and whilst the depth remains nearly uniform at that, it shows the channel
is well kept : if it diminishes to twenty feet and less, then the vessel is
falling on the verge of the Ortiz Bank ; whilst on the other hand, if it
deepens to twenty-nine feet, it indicates a drift towards Sanborombon Bay.
In each case the currents should be carefully considered, in any alteration of
course. Having proceeded thirty-five miles on this course, the lightship
will appear, and a vessel can bear down on her to pass on either side, or
take in pilot, if one is required, as this is their station. After passing the
lightship, put the ship's head to N.W., so as to pass between the New Bank
and the shoals forming off the Argentine shore, meanwhile watching for
the steep edges of the Ortiz Bank to the N. of the Chico. On this course
the water should deepen from about twent\-five feet to twenty-nine and
thirty-five feet, afterwards very gradually shoaling. This shoaling, and
the hardening of the bottom with sand, indicate the proximity of the banks
in the narrow part of the channel. If with this N.W. course the soundings
are uniform, not exceeding twenty-three and a half feet, it shows that a
strong current has set the vessel low ards the Chico Bank : in that case
steer N., even a little E. to it, if it is thought the bank is very near, until
the lead gives twenty-nine or thirty-four feet as mid-channel : once in that
water the ship's head should be put to S.W. again, as the steep edges of
the Ortiz Bank have to be avoided, continuing on the same course until the
next lightship on the Chico Bank is made out. This lightship is anchored
in twenty-one fbet of water, off the N.K. extremity of the Bank, and should
be left on the port side. If from some cause or other this lightship is
unavailable, or cannot be made out in thick weather, then- great care should
be taken with the soundings, keeping close to the edge of Ortiz, but
marking well the nature of the bottom. If the vessel is in the direct
channel for Buenos Ayres, and in the parallel of the Ortiz Bank with the
N. extremity of the Chico Bank, then the lead will give twenty-three,
twenty-nine, and thirty-five feet of water, with sott bottom, diminishing
gradually as the Santiago and Lara Banks are approached, anJcontinuin^lg
SQUra CUAK2«EL. 157
80 ta shoal until the roads of Bqeaos Ayres are reached. The northern
edges of the Cbico-Bfuik are verj uneven and (dumpy, » hence care should
be taken to avoid them* If thirty-nine /eet or more Avaler is found
bereahouts, it shows the poaitipn to be more S. than the extreme N.E. point
of the Chico Bank, and therefore necessary to move more N. in order to
avoid the Bank. If, on the contrary, the water does not exceed Ihirty-lGve
feet, it indicates the edge of the Ortiz Bank to the northward of its parallel
with the point of the Chico Bank, and the ship is therefore to be put for
the Argentine shore until mid^channel is reached. This lightship off the
northern point of the Chico Bank is a great acquisition for navigating the
Plate by the Middle Channel: it is anchored in twenty-five feet of water,
<listant thirty-four miles N. 45 deg. W. from Point ludiq lightship in
direct line.
Tfie South Channel.
In entering this cliannel it is requisite to make out the lightship off Point
Indio, whi;ch, as has been stated, is anchored in twenty .-five feet of water,
between the said point and the S.E. eMremity of the Ortiz Bank ,» and forty-
three miles from the port of MQutevideo. If circumstances are such that
this channel is preferable to ^he middle channel, run along the Argentine
jdkore, keeping a soft bottom with the lead until rounding the point at Bay
of Barragan. In tiie first part of the run the New Bank must not bef orgotten;
its proximity will be i9di<?ate.d by the , shoaling of ^the soundings, and the
mixture of sand with the soft bottom. The bearings from the lightship, how-
ever, if that be made out rightly, will insure a safe passage here. Following
the southern coast of the river, and keeping with the edge of the tosca
shoals which fringe it, the lead will indicate tosca and soft bottom
aiterqatively, and nearly equal soundings. In this manner the south
channel must be crept along until the church of the Magdalena bears S. 28
deg. W. On the southeru extremity of the Chico Bank, as well as along its
edge there are twenty-three feet of water, hard bottom ; but running N.W.
andS.£. there is a strip on which no more than eighteen feet of water will
be found, though tbehottom is soft, and it forms a narrow channel with the
shore. Therefore, to be qi|ite secure, this channel, which is near the Chico
Bank, should be avpidod, keeping as near shore as possible for the draught
of the vessel. If Point Atalaya bears S, i« deg. W., it is then pretty certain
that the vessel is not in the channel, and should be kept off until twenty-
three feet is obtained, l^o as to dear the Santiago and Lara Banks, and this
depth should not diminish until abreast of Quitmes, the same river giving
^ ' Digitized by "®
IM THE FOET OF BUEIIOS ATRES.
mineteen or twenty feet in the roads of Buenos Ayresi In place of following
the Argentine coast, after emerging from the south channel proper, perhaps
the safest course is to steer N.W. until the Ortiz Bank is approached, and
then take a course for Buenos Ayrss direct. This is by far the best courre
if the destination be Colonia or the Homos Isles.
Beating from Montevideo to Point Indio.
If it is necessary to tack after leaving Montevideo, care should be taken
to avoid the dangers lying at the mouth of the river, such as the English Bank ^
the Archimedes, the Ortiz, and the shoals off the right shores of the river.
The soundings and the nature of the bottom will indicate clearly the
localities of the banks, and with such guidance there should be no fear to
beat the distance to Point ludio.
rro7n Point Indio to Buenos Afjres.
More difficulties present themselves, and more attention is necessary in
beating from Point Indio to Buenos Ajres For a while, between these two
points, unless the runuing is at least six knots an hour, the current siipuld
not be attempted to be stemmed, at least if it runs more than one or one
and a-half knots. If the current runs strong, and the vessel does not make
much way, it is better to come to anchor, and wait for a more fkvorable
opportunity — change of wind or current. After passing the lightship the
first tacks should be towards the Argentine shore, so as to clear the Sew
Bank, at least if the draught of the vessel permits it being crossed. It is
quite safe to beat here if the lightship is always kept bearing somewhat E.
in the outward tacks, until a tosca bottom is felt, which shows that the
N.W. point of the bank is being crossed; then the tacking may be
prolonged to the Ortiz Bank up to twenty-one feet of water, returning to a
similar depth in shore. It is not so uneven or broken on the edge of the
Ortiz Bank as it is on the tosca ledges lying along shore, therefore even a
little less water on that bow may not be dangerous, still it is better to keep
the same water, so as to avoid any outlying lumps of the bank. In this
manner a vessel may beat past the New Bank to the S.E. extremity of the
Chico Bank, When in the vicinity of the latter bank, six or eight trees in
the neighborhood of Magdalena will appear, and while these bear S.W.
quarters, a vessel may beat without fear. It will be noted noi« that more
water will be found on the starboard side, runnilig along the edge of the
Ortiz Bank, than when making shore on the port bow. When^^he ombii
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
▲DVICB. 139
trees referred to bear S.S.W., it shows the positioti to be in the channel
between the Ortiz and Ghico Banks : they may be seen from the ronnd-top
of an ordinary vessel before the Chico Bank is reached, but from the edge
of the Ortiz, say in twenty feet of water, they cannot be seen, — a vessel
must be in mid-channel, and the weather clear, before they can be made
out from the mast-head. Once between the Ortiz and Chico, a vessel may
beat towards the former up to twenty feet without any fear ; but should
not approach the latter any nearer than twenty-five feet, as its edges are
very steep. When it is calculated the vessel is in the narrowest part of the
middle channel, great care should be taken, the ship put about immediately
if after the lead gives twenty-nine feet the ne\t throw be two feet less.
The shoaling of this bank is rather abrupt — giving twenty-three feet at
first, then eighteen feet at a second cast, and the next eleven feet, with
hard bottom : the rapid shoaling renders the Chico the most dangerous
bank in the River Plate, and being uneven in its edges, and leaving but a
narrow channel between it and the Ortiz, the working of a ship past its
dangers is a difficult task. Having {massed this, and tacked across the
channel, the soundings will be found at thirty-nine and a-balf feet, which,
when shoaling to thirty-two or twenty-eight and a-half feet, shows the
proiimity of the Santiago and Lara Banks : still the port bow may be kept
to the Argentine shore until twenty-three feet is reached, which will be
nearly abreast of Quilmes: perhaps only twenty*one feet will be found, but
if the bottom be soft black mud the channel is good. Once up to this point
a couple more tacks will reach the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. Inside
the road perhaps it will be necessary to' take one or two short tacks, to
bring the vessel to a good position, but not less than two feet of water
should always be under the keel.
ADVICE.
After all, it must be remembered, that all such book instructions as have
been given as to the routes to Euenos Ayres are mere indications for
extreme cases, and for such unforeseen circumstances that no others are
available — such, for instance, as the removal of either of the lightships off
Point Indio or the Chico Bank, from some cause or other ; or during thick
weather, when no marks are visible ; or if full confidence cannot be placed
in the pilot on board. Otherwise, it is not advisable for any foreign
captain, unless of much experience, and well knowing the landmarks, to
attempt the passage to Buenos Ayres, or outward, without the assistance of
a practical pilot. It should also be borne in mind that in a great estuary like
<60
THE PORT QF BUEffOS AYRES.
this, ^here tiie eurreats run in such different, directions, the formation of
the banks is always changing, and with them the channels; hence it
becomes necessary sometimes to alter the position of the lightships, from
which it will be seen that the bearings and directions given can only be
approximately relied upon, as the results of the then latest surveys published.
More may be confided to the soundings, and the lead should always be kept
going : the depth, and nature of the bottom, with careful reference to the
cliart, are, moreover, the best guides the pilots have.
THE AFFLUENTS OF THE PLATE.
The requisite knowledge for navigating the Uruguay and Paraoi
.being only attained by practical experience, the distances on the«e
rivers only are given here : —
The Uruguay,
HUes.
From the roads of Buenos Ayres to Point Gorda, at the
entrance of the Uruguay, ... * 55
<( Point Gorda to the Rio Negro, .... 30
« Rio Negro to Gualeguaychu, .... 23
« * Gualeguaychu to the Arroyo China, ... 40
« Arroyo China to Paysanda, .... .... 12
« Paysandu to Concordia, .... . . , . 62
« Concordia to Salto, .... .... 9
« Salto to the town of Belen, .... .... 30
« Belen to the Rio Mirifiai, ....' .... 48
« Miriflal to the Rio IMcui, 60
« Ibicui to the town of La Cruz, .... 16
u La Cruz to Santo Tom^, .... .... 48
« Santo Tom6 to the Pass of Concepcion 66
« Concepcion Pass to San Javier, .... 21
« San Javier to Salto Grande, 4 miles below Pepiri, 121
The Parand.
The distances of the various ports of call on this river from the roads of
Buenos Ayres are as follows :—
Miles.
To the Parand Guazu, 55
« San Pedro, 1^5
« San Nicolas, 181
« Rosario, .... .... 223
« ParanA, .... .... 321
« La Paz, 406
To Esquina,
<c Bella Vista,
<( Corrientes,
« Salto de Apipe,
« ?alto de Gualrd,
Digitized by
4M
572
6 42
780
A070
Google
SECTION C.
OHAP. I.
THE PROVINCE OF BUENOS AYRES.
The territory of the province is not rery clearly defined : it is supposed to
include all the area bounded on the N. by Santa F6, on the W. by Mendoza,
on the South by the Magellan's Straits, and on the E. by the La Plata
and South Atlantic. Meantime the Indians are undisputed owners of
immense regions in Patagonia and the Pampas, and the settled districts of
Buenos Ajres hardly exceed 70,000 square miles, which is little more than
the extent of England, while the Pampas and Patagonia cover a superficies
of 440,000 square miles. Part of this latter territory, at present wholly
useless, is claimed by the province of Mendoza, and also by the Republic of
Chile, The general appearance of the country is that of a vast plain,
covered with grass or thistles, and alnK>st destitute of trees. In the north
there are numerous arroyos which f^U into the Parang ; these have their
origin in sw-amps or (ccailadas,)> and sometimes dry up in summer time, but
the rivers of Del Medio, Arrecifes, Areeo, andLuxan are permai^t^tef ^
3 THB PEOVnVCK OF BUEIfOS AYRKS.
courses : in the soath we find some large rivers, viz., the Salado, whicb
runs for 250 miles, from W. to E. and falls into the estuary of the La
Plata near Cape St. Anthony ; and the Colorado and Negro, which may be
regarded as the Indian frontier-line southward. Among the tributaries of
the Salado are the arroyos of Las Flores, Tapalquen and Azul, which give
their names to the districts they irrigate. The Rio Negro has its origin
in the Andes, crossing the continent from E. to W., and is navigable
almost the whole course. Further sooth is the Chupat river, where the
Welsh colony is established. Among the minor streams of the south are
the Chapaleofu, Tandileofii, Ajq^aleofii, Vivoratd and Arroyo Grande, of
sweet water, and the Pantanoso, Quequen-grande, Quequen Salado,
Cristiano Muerto, Carmelo, Mulponleofili and Sauce Grande, which have a .
brackish taste, being impregnated with certain salts. There are numerous
lagoons or lakes scattered over the various districts ; like the rivers, some
of them dry up in the hot season ; they are mostly of sweet water, and
invaluable for the use of the flocks and herds: the lakes of Chascomus,
Bragado, 25 de Mayo, Encadenadas, Laguna de los Padres, and Mar
Chiquita are the most important. The only lines of hills are those in the
southern Indian country, viz., the Sierra Yulcan, Tandileofd, Tandil,
Huesos, Tapalquen, Sierra Tinta, Chapaleofd, Azul, &c., which rise near
Cape Gorrientes, run 200 miles inland in a WNW. directioii, and are lost
m the Pampas: further south ^are the Curra-malal, Guanini, and Sierra
Ventana, which stretch out about 100 miles. The Sierra Tinta is famous
for superior marble. Among natural curiosities is worthy of mention the
great rocking-stone of Tandil.
The population of the province, exclusive of the city of Buenos Ayres>
is returned as 319,773 souls, itf the following order — Argentines 247,325,
Spaniards 18,332, French 14,594, Italians 13,768, English 12,44«, Germans-
2,339, Indians 6,966, others 4,000. These returns are pretty correct in an
official point of view, since they include all foreigners' children bom int he
country, under the classification of Argentines. If, however, we be
permitted to count the families of foreign settlers as belonging to their
nationality we shall find the estimates thus : —
Argentines, 180,000 English, 35,000
French & Basques, 40,000 Italians, .... 30,000
Spaniards, .... 30,000 Germans, .... 5,000
The natives may be said to occupy themselves exclusively iri the care of
horned cattle and breaking-in horses, ffhey are intelligent, obliging, and
hospitable, but fond of gamblinj^ and horse-racing, and the lower classes
are entirely devoid of education. Their manner of life gives them littleale
FORETGIC POPULITIOH. 3
respect for a laborious and well-organized state of society ; and as the laws'
have hitherto afforded the «paisano)) no other privilege than a life of
perpetual military service, either on the frontier or in the civil wars, the
result has been to demoralize the rural population. The French and
Basques are found in a variety of callings — inn-keepers, artizans, shepherds,
brick-makers, bullock-drivers, &c. : they are industrious and honest,
seldom failing to realize an independence, and well-liked by . their
neighbors. The Spaniards are sometimes shopkeepers, sometimes
shepherds, chacreros, &c. The Italians are often found as pulperos or
travelling huxters, and they have little shops here and there through the-
country. The English may be subdivided thus— Irish 30,000, Scotch,
Americans, ifec. 5000: the Irish have, for over 20 years, formed the bulk of the
sheep-farming community, and to them is in a great measure due the staple
wealth of the country; they are mostly found In the N. and W. where they
own large estancias, and their attention to the education of their children
is an honorable characteristic ; each district has its own Irish clergyman,
its lending library, and its racing club. The Scotch seem to prefer the
Southern camps : there are flourishing communities in the districts of San
Vicente and Ghascomus, where many of the estancias will call for our
special attention in the tour of the campagna. The Scotch settlers were
originally men of humble fortunes, but thrifty, well-informed, and
laborious ; it is not surprising that success has attended them. There is a
Scotch chapel near Quilmes, and another on the Adela estancia near
Ghascomus. Of Englishmen properly so called there are very few
in the camp, but we shall have to visit one or two wealthy English
estancieros. North Americans are fewer still. Germans are scattered
widely, some ias shop-keepers, others as farmers, and the latter have some of
the finest establishments in the province.
In the last century the sole industry of the country consisted in killing
horned cattle for their hides. Of late years the sheep business has sprung
up rapidly, and attained colossal dimensions. The country is well adapted
for rearing innumerable flocks, and when the frontier is once securely fixed
along the Rio Negro we may look for further expansion to this industry.
Agriculture has some drawbacks, particularly that of want of hands, but it
is making unprecedented progress in those districts connected by river or
railway with the capital : the wheat crops, especially, are abundant and
remunerative. The oiBcial statistics of stock are as follows: — sheep,
60,000,000; cows, 6,000,000; horses, nearly 2,000,000. This gives an
average of 200 sheep, 20 cows, and 6 horses to every inhabitant^ a
proportion that will not be found in any other country of the globe. 30Qle
AA2 ^ o
THE PROVINCE OF BUEKOS AYRES.
The province is divided into 72 p
artidos, which, with their ;
population
•e as follows : —
PsriidoB.
Population.
Partidos.
Population.
San Jos6 de F lores, ....
5,435
S. Andres de Giks, . . . ,
2,834
South Barracas, ....
5,250
Villa Luxan,
10,292
Zamora, .... ....
1,255
Pilar,
4,313
San Vicente, ....
6,030
Moreno, ....
. 2,063
Quilmes,
5,286
Las Concftas,
. 1,681
Ensenada,
3,140
San Fernando,
. 4,112
Magdalena, ....
15,807
Sanlsidro,. ... . .. .
3,649
Rivadavia (new),
. .'. .
Belgrano,
2,946
Biedma "
» ....
San Martin, . . . ,
2,666
Cbascomus, • • • .
15,590
Moron,
. 2,914
Banchos, .... . . • <
7,588
Merlo,
, 2,003
Guardia Monte, ....
4,432
Matanzas, ....
. 1,313
Caftuelas,
4,933
Tordillo,
2,386
Lobos, • • . • ...
. 16,409
Tres Arroyos (new), . . .
• • . • •
Las Heras,
. 1,670
Gastelli «
» ....
Navarro, ....
. 11,195
Rauch <(
. ....
Mercedes,
. 8,937
Ayacucho «
. ...»
Suipacha (new),
. «...
Balcarce «
. ....
Chivilcoy, ....
. 11,664
Tuyii « ...
Chacabuco,
. 6,063
Aj6,
. 2,922
Kuevede Julio,
. 3,053
Mciiisalvo, ....
. 9,577
Junin,
. 1,326
Mar-Chi(juita,
. 3,333
Bojas, . • . • ...
2,615
Loberia,
. 3,365
Pergamino,
. 7,042
Dolores,
. 7,466
San Nicolas,
. 12,561
Vecino,
. 1,600
Baoiallo,
. 2,054
Tandil,
. .2,143
San Pedro,
. 5,789
Azul,
. 10,249
Arrecifes, ....
. 3,514
Las Flores,
. 7,863
Salto, .... ...
. 3,478
Saladillo,
. 5,746
Carmen deAreco, ...
. 4,187
Pila,
. 3,361
San Antonio *'
. 2,394
Arenales,
. 9,645
Baradero, • • • •
. 4,601
Tapalquen, "...
. 2,000
Necochea,(new),
25 de Mayo,
. 8,821
^arace, .... ...
. 3,436
Bragado,
. 4,222
Liocoln (new),
• ....
Bahia Blanca,
. 2,168
Capilla del Seflor, . . .
. 4,227
Patagones, ^...^.^.^
a by 2,300
8l«
PRUfCiPAIi TQW^S- 5
The principal camp towns are — San JJicolas, on the ParanA, 8,000
inhabitants;. Mercedes, a flourishing western town, 6,000; Villa Luxan,
surrounded by Irish sheepfarmers, 5,500; Chivilcoy, the centre of the
agricultural districts, 3,500 ; Dolores, in the south, 4,800 ; San Pedro, on
the Par^nd, 3,248 ; Chascomus, the terminus of the Southern Railway,
4,000; Lobos, a busy little place, 5,000; Azul, near the Indian frontier,
5,000: Navarro, another sheepfarming centre, .3,000; San Fernando, , a
port for coasting trafiBc, 3,000; Belgrano, a fashionable summer residence,
2^500; Carmen de Areco, in the north, 2,000; Quilmes, famous for its
chacras, 2,500 ; Bopracas, .where the saladeros are situated, 3,000; Salto,
2,000; X^as Flores, 2,000; Magdalena, 2,000; Rancl^os, 1^600; Rojas,
1,700; San Jos6 de Flores, 1,500; Veinte-Cinco de Mayp, 1,500; Bahia
Blanca, 1,500; Patagones, 1,350; San Antonio de Areco, 1^200 ;r Moron,
1,205; Capilla del Setior, 1,152; Pilar, 1,000; San Vicente, 1,000;
Pergamino, 1,5^00; Arrecifes, 1,000; Bar^dero, 1,000.
As a.rule the northern caipps are high, and, in dry se^i^ons, exppsed to
drought: in 1859 a million horned cattle perished, and their c<ircases
covered the country far and wide. The southern camps, on the contrary,
are low, and suffer in wet seasons frpm a superabundance of water. «The
soil,)) says an intelligent Scotch writer, kIs in general very rich and
produces, at certain seasons, luwriant crops of natural clover, in which
horses and cattle i^iay be seen wading knee-deep. Even during a *3eca,*
when the camp is as bare as a turnpike-road, the flocks contrive to subsist,
though in an emaciated condition, on thistle seeds, which are scattered in
great abundance over the ground. ^ The climate is agreeable, and I have
seldom seen finer-looking men than Eurppeans who have resided long in
the country, and those of European descent. The spring is the pleasantest
season, being neither too hot nor too cold. The earth, too, is covered with
a rich carpet of clover and thistles, and looks as fine as any country with
such a flat face can do. As summer approaches the heat becomes excessive.
The thistles, which before looked like a crop of turnips, suddenly spring up
to a height of ten or eleven feet, armed with strong prickles, forming dense
jungles impenetrable to man or beast. The appearance of the country
undergoes a complete change in the course of a week or two. The horizon,
with its known landmacks, is suddenly hidden from view, and one scarciely
knows where to steer. About Christmas (midsummer) the thistles are all
in full bloom, and soon droop and die. The grass grows yellow, withers,
and disappears. Pamperos, tremendous gales from the west, arise and
sweep away all^ remains of vegetation. These hurricanes are so charged
with dust and dead thistles that day becomes as dark as night. Travellers
Digitized by VjOO_^
6 IHE PBOVIHCE OF BUEIIOS ATBES.
lose all idea of their course, and often wander astray. Even the natives,
"who possess an instinct like that of the pigeon, make absurd' mistakes.
Tropical rains fall in winter, and the whole country becomes a swamp.
After the rain, however, Nature, like a phoenix, rises from the ashes, and
the earth turns green again. Snow may not be seen for a generation, but
ice is not uncommon, and the wind is often piercingly cold. The climate is
healthy to the healthy, but unsuitable for invalids, especially those with
consumptive tendencies.))
Among the animals peculiar to the country is the «biscacho,)) which is
classed by naturalists among the family of Chinchillidae and order of
Bodentia. «Biscachos)) are an abhorrence to sheepfarmers, as they burrow
the land in all directions, and there is much danger to persons galloping
after dark, of the horse stumbling over a «biscachera.)) The c(biscachos)»
remain underground during the day, and it is remarkable that a peculiar
breed of owls inhabit the same burrows with them. After sunset the
traveller will see these strange animals sitting or running about at the
mouth of their burrow ; but, of a sudden, they utter a strange cry and
dive down out of sight. Another curious animal is the vpeludo)) or
armadillo, which burrows in the ground, but leaves no opening behind it.
«Peludos» are considered by the natives as a very dainty dish, being cooked
and served up in the shell : the flavor is almost too rich and savoury.
<cMulitas)) are almost the same as (cpeludos,)) and also much in request as
an article of food. These animals have such powerful claws that if once
they get their head under ground it is impossible to pull them out. In the
more distant camps we sometimes hear of wild dogs (perros cimarrones)
which go about like wolves, in large packs, doing much havoc among sheep.
The ((comadreja)) is an animal between the weasel and the otter ; it is fond
•f sucking eggs, and has a pouch, like the opossum, for carrying about its
young. Rats, mice, and frogs are abundant in all parts of the country ; and
among venemous reptiles are found the ((cscuerzo,)) a deadly kind of toad,
and the aVivora de la Cruz,)) a small snake so called from its having a cross
on its head; the latter kind of reptile is very rare. The other animals
comprise ostriches, anutrias,)) pole-cats, and tiger-cats : wnutrias)) are much
esteemed for their skins, in which the Indians carry on some trade.
Tiger-cats are about double the size of the domestic animal.
Birds are as scarce as trees 'in Buenos Ayres, if we except game, which
is very abundant: the country swarms with wild duck, partridge, and a
species of horned plover, called cctero-tero)) from the cry which it makes.
There is a kind of hawk or vulture called «chimango,)> w^ich picks out the
eyes of young lambs ; the «carancho)) is another kind, somewhat larger^|g
TREES AlfD SHEUOS. 7
and both these birds are a kind of scavengers, specially proyided by
nature for carrying off the carrion that infests the camps on all sides.
Parrots are often found in large numbers. The «Pica-flor,» or humming-
bird, is one of the tiniest and prettiest of the feathered tribe; it is no
larger than a bee, of the most beautiful and variegated hues, and lives by
sipping from the flowers, like a butterfly : there is also the aHornero)) or
<coYen-bird,)> a little larger than a lark, which builds its nest of mud on the
fork of a tree ; the nest is about the size of a man's head, the walls an
inch thick, and almost as strong as a brick.
The botanist will find little to interest him in the Pampas : nevertheless
the «pita)) or flowering-aloe is a beautiful plant, indigenous to the conntry.
It is usually seen forming a fence in the suburban quintas, and has a fine
effect, springing up to a height of 30 feet, and at the bas^ it is surrounded
by large prickly leaves, 7 oy 8 feet long, and 5 or 6 inches in thickness.
The inner substance is a fibrous matter from which some excellent twine
has been made. The «tuna)> is sometimes confounded with the apita,)) but
the former seems rather of the cactus family. The fences formed by these
plants have often proved impenetrable even to the Indians. The chief
ornament of these plains is the c(Ombil,)» which 6asts out its branchesto a
great extent and affords a cool and refreshing shade ; the foliage is dark
green; it is invaluable as a landmark, and Don Luis Dominguez has sung
its praises in very eloquent strains. Poplars grow abundantly in the south,
paradise-trees in the north, and peach-trees everywhere ; these last are
useful not only f^r their fruit, but for supplying firewood, and they are
cut down every three years. Grapes, figs, and other European fruits
thrive here admirably, as also the vegetables in common use in England.
In fact nearly all the products of the temperate zones and the tropics are
reared with little difliculty other than that [caused by the ants. Australian
^ura-trees acquire a wonderful height and bulk in three or four years, and
the Government endeavored, a couple of years ago, to induce the natives
to plant it largely. There are many pretty field flowers, apparently
indigenous, but the science of horticultuie is comparatively new and
limited to the commoner kinds of garden-flowers, although the catoelias
seem much finer than are usual in Europe.
Thirty years ago all travelling in the camp was done on horseback, and
the natives still make light of galloping lOO or even 150 miles in a day.
«Diligencias» or mail-coaches, when first introduced, were drawn by a
dozen horses yoked sideways by a girth or <(cincha. The want of bridges
over the arroyos often made this method of travelling exceedingly
troublesome and tedious. At present there are railways northy>south, and
Digitized by vj'
8 THE PROVIlfCE OF fiUEHOS AIRES.
•west, traversing the country for two hundred miles, and in connection with
them a number of «diligencias,)> which renders travelling easy and
expeditious. Goods and produce are transported hy troops of ten or a
dozen bullock-carts^ which are ugly, cumbersome, vehicles, built on
ponderous wheels; they travel about 20 miles a day; the bullock-drivers
urge on the oxen with long goads; these men have a life of extreme
hardship, living always in the open air, without other home or shelter than
the shadow of their rude waggons. •
The Province of Buenos Ayres was an independent Republic from the fall
of Bosas, in 1852, till the reconstruction of the Argentine Confederation in
1861; it is now one of the fourteen united provinces, having its own
Governor, Legislature, and local authorities, and being represented in the
National Congr&s by two Senators and twelve Deputies. The Governor is
. elected for three years, and has two Ministers of State, for the Home and
Finance Departmen,ts. The Senators and Deputies for the Provincial
Legislature are elected by the various districts, in the rate of a Senator for
every 12,000, anda iDe^uty for every 6,000 injiabitants : the first sit for
three years, the second for two. The judicial authorities comprise a High
Court of Justice (from which there is appeal to the Federal T'ribuDal), the
Tribunal of Coipm^rce, District Courts at Mercedes, San Nicolas and Dolores^
Justices of Primera Instancia, and the ordinary Justices of Peace for the
respective partidos. The administratipn of the laws is necessarily
imperfect, owing to the difliculty of organizing a proper police force in so
exten4ed a country, and the want of respect towards the public magistrates :
the Justice of the Peace, in the camp districts, is usually a grocer
or sheep-farmer, and the Alcaldes and Tenientes often belong to the
humblest class, of apaisanos.)) Each partido has also its municipal boards
to which foreigners are eligible. The ecclesiastical division of the
province coincides with the judicial, and each partido has its Cura, with
one or two assistant clergymen, who are often Italian priests. Public
instruction meets with every possible favor from Government, and the
various camp-towns boast handsome state-schools ; meantime the education
of the fural population offers great difficulties, partly owing to the
distances intervening between the scattered towns, and still more to the
habits and character of the gauchos. The total number of children
attending state-schools in the camp is returned at 5,903, in a population of
320,000 souls. The number of National Guards amounts to 32,320, and
from these are . drawn contingents for the Indian frontier: all foreigners-
are exempt from this laborious and unpleasant service.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CATTLE FARfiUMG.
CHAP. n.
LIFE IN THE CAMP.
The business of horned cattle is almost entin^ly in the hands of natives,
and it formed for nearly three centuries the sole occupation of the Spanish
settlers. It seems incredible, and yet it is no less true, that horses and
cows were unknown before the time of Alraro HuUez, otherwise called
Cabeza de Vaca (cow^s head), who brought out the first cattle from Spain,
A.D. 1541, since which time they have increased so prodigiously as to
number several millions, notwith^anding the enormous slaughter, during
80 many years, of millions of cows and mares, merely for their hides. Ihe
rearing of cattle is still extensively carried on^ for the saladeros, where the
hides, bones, and flesh are turned to account, the trade in jerked beef
being very considerable, for the markets of Cuba and Brazil.
Estancias for horned cattle usually vary from oneto ten square leagues
in extent, while those on the frontier are even much larger^ they abound
in «pasto fuertea or coarse grass, which stands tht dry seasons better than
the meadow grass or trefoil on which sheep are pastured : the former must
be entirely eaten down before the fide grasses spring up. The estanciero
takes care to select a piece of limd bordered by a river, or having
permanent lagoons, and as free as possible from thistles, hemlock and
burr. In building his house he is guided by his taste or means ; a mud
rancho costs about £40 to j660, a house of adobes or sun-dried bricks
about double the above amount; and sometimes we find luxurious
residences that cost over a thousand pounds sterling. The «corrales» are
large folds for enclosing the cattle, whenever this is found necessary ; they
are made of upright posts 7feet high, of a hard wood called fiaridubay,
fastened together by means of cross bars and hide thongs, the <(corrales»
are round in form, and strongly made, so as to hold a large number of cattle ;
10 LIFE Uf THE GAMP.
the gate consists of two or three transverse bars. The «corral» is always
near the estancia house. The i<moQte» or <iquinta,» surrounding the house,
comprises an extensive peach-orchard, visible several leagues off. In
three years peach-trees arrive at maturity, and they serve the double purpose
of fruit and fuel, besides making fences. One third of the plantatioa
is cut down at intervals, and planted afresh, and in this manner the supply
of fruit and timber is constant and abundant. The staff of an estancia
usually consists of a Majordomo, who represents the master, an expert
capataz to oversee the peons, and half-a-dozen to twenty peons or servants,
according to the size of the estancia; these last earn $250* to $350
(£2 to £3) a month ; they also get their food — an unlimited supply of beef
and some «yerba.))
The stock of an estancia often numbers ten thousand head, divided into
herds of two or three thousand each, which two men can easily care. Each
herd is gathered up every night to its «rodeo,» an open space, where each
animal regularly chooses its own place to lie down ; they remain there till
after sunrise, when they set off again to graze. Cows calve once a year,
heifers as early as two years j they live to about 1 5 or 20 years of age,
and their milk is rich and of excellent flavor. The legs and horns are
longer than in English breeds. The stock of horned cattle in the province
is set down at 6,000,000 head, and the -annual slaughter in tbe^saladeros ^
eipeeds half-a-million, independent of the consumption for the city
markets. The oxen broken for the plough or bullock-cart are remarkably
gentle, and of symmetrical proportions. Formerly there were large*
quantities of aalzadaw or wild cattle, but the Indians have left but few on
the frontiers. In seasons of drought cattle sometimes stray hundreds of
miles in quest of water, but unless they calve on their new pastures they
invariably return to their <(querencia» after the drought. Sometimes the
cattle are watered by means of a <(balde sin fondo,» which raises water
from a well, and is worked by a man cm horseback ; it can water 2,000 head
of cattle in a day. Cattle-farming until recently was not considered so
lucrative, but, when properly attended to it gives very fair results, say 24.
to 30 per cent, on the capital invested. Herds of cattle, from 1,000
upwards, may be purchased at §60 or $80m/fc (say 10 to 13 shillings) a head.
Land is so dear in the sheep-farming districts that the estanciero has to
choose an estancia in the southern partidos of Pila, Vecino, Monsalvo, or
Loberia, but he must beware of the western frontier, which is much
• exposed to Indians. As a rule the business of horned cattle, does not at
all suit foreign settlers, although some have in a measure combined it with
the care of sheep. Digitized by VrrOOglC
HABITS OF THE c(PAISAROS.» It
The great season of amilsement in camp life is the Terra or marking-
time. All the peons of the estancia, and others from the neighborhood,
drive the cattle into the « corrals : » each animal is canght with a lasso bj a
man on horseback, then tied down, and a red hot iron with the owner's
monogram or mark is planted on the poor brute's flank, while a blue smoke
curls upward from the smoking flesh : the mark so made is indelible, and
this is the way that estancieros distinguish their property, there being no
fences or bounds to the various estancias. The Yerra always winds up
with a feast of «carne-con-cuero,» or meat cooked in the hide, than which
nothing can be more savory; neither coals nor wood must be employed in
cooking it, but only bones, and it eats best cold. Horses are marked in
the same manner as homed cattle, and when sold must receive the
counter-mark of the first owner as well as the brand of the purchaser,
which custom sadly disfigures many fine animals. The Gauchos are very
clever in breaking-in horses, following a method very akin to that of Rarey ;
they tie one of the horse's legs, and put him through a tiresome ordeal,
then mount him, ride him about a mile, tie him up for a day without food,
and before a week the animal is quite tame and broken-in.
Nothing is so wonderful as the dexterity of the natives in throwing the
lasso ; their aim is almost unerring ; they will single out a horse or cow in
the middle of a herd and bring him down with unfailing precision. They
will also pursue an animal in full chase across the plains, and, when thef
get sufiQciently near, the lasso is swung twice or thrice around their head,
then let go, and the moment it touches the runaway cow the horse of the
rider stands still, to receive the shock, and down goes the cow headlong on
the ground. Another way of catching horses is with the «bolas : » these
are three round stones or iron balls, about the size of an egg, covered with •
raw hide, and fastened to a strip of hide about five feet long. They are
thrown much like the lasso, at a distance of sixty or seventy yards, with
unerring aim, and, entangling the feet of the pursued animal, bring him to
the ground with a violent shock. The Gauchos are also very clever in
plaiting bridles of uutanned hide thongs, and their great ambition is to
caparison their horses with elaborate * silver trappings, often worth a £100
sterling. Their own dress is, moreover, tasteful and fantastic : instead of
pantaloons they wear a ((chiripi)) of striped woollen stuff, fitting loosely
about the thighs, and exceedingly convenient on horseback ; this is fastened
by a leathern «tirador» ornamented with silver buttons, and in this, at their
back, they stick a knife with silver or leathern scabbard. Under the
«chirip4))^ they wear white cotton drawers with a fringe twelve inchesj
deep : the boots were formerly «botas de potro» formed of the untann^l^^
12 LIFE in Tm GAMP.
skin of a eolt's legs, leaving the wearer's toes quite bare, and the Jbig toe
exactly fitted the little wooden stirrup which they used ; but now they are
beginning very generally to wear the ordinary boots. Besides the
((tirador» they wear a long (cfajaw or sash of red silk, tied around the
waist. The «poftcho» completes the dress : it is like a table cover, with a
8lit in the middle to admit the hefid, and varying in value from a few
diillings to £50 ; the finest are those made of vic^fta wool, woven by the
natives of the upper provinces.
The rich estancieros usually live in the city, in great fashion and luxury,
leaving their establishments in charge cf a «mayordomo,)> and going out
once or twice a yew to see how things go on; they are men of polished
manners, good education, and often members of learned professions.
Their great fault is an absolute neglect to improve the condition and
manners of the <cpaisanQS)» on their estates. The «gaucI^os» . live in
wretched «i:anchos,» of which the rafters and frame-work are stalks of
the aloe or canes, the sides are plastered with mud, and the rpof is of
«piga» or reeds that grow in the lagoons. The furniture consists of a
wooden stool or .bench, a few horses' or cows' hqadstbat are used for seats,
and a cowhide stretched on stakes, which serves as the family bed. The
cooking is done in the open air with an (casador» or spit that is ^tuck iiiito
the ground, and a large thiree-legged pot : sometimes a little oven is built
^ear the ((rancbo.» ^The most important; piece of furniture, however, is
the (crccado)). or native saddle, which is very complicated and consists of
bidertrappings and cloths that as often serve the «gaucbo» for his bed;
the (crecado is a very comfortable saddle for a long journey, but tires the
horse more than the ordinary saddle. The ordinary price of a arecado,»
complete, is about X5, and. the best[|street in the city to buy it in, is Calle
Buen Oden. The business of cattlerfarming will receive a great impuTse
and prove much more lucrative if Mr. Bailey's project succeeds, of
importing live cattle from the River Plate into England. Hitherto all
efforts in Buenos Ayres to export cured beef for the English markets have
failed to create a staple trade. Meai^time the exportation of dry and salted
hides has kept up a very active business : according to Lennuyeux's tables
we find 2,054,824 cow hides exported in the year ending September 12,
1868 ; this, however, shews a decline of 10 per cent, on the previous year.
The export of horse-hides amounted to 104,053, being also, less than in
1867. The tallow trade has, however, increased .notably : we find 77,188
pipes and 29,233 boxes for 1868, an increase of more than 50 percent. If
the National Government would take the export duties off prQ(luce the
farming bnsiness would be as remunerative as ever. Digitized by Cr OOQ Ic
SHJekl^rATfeMtWG.
The Province of Buenos Ayres counts 60^006,000 of sheep, which give
a yield of about 3fi a heid, or 180^000,00^5 unwashed wool. The sheep-
farms cover over 40,000,0(H) acres, being 1^ sheep per acre, and the
number of shepherds may be estimated at 60,000, of which at least a
quarter are Irish or Scotch, and the Basques also form a large proportion.
Buenos Ayres closely competes with Australia for the rank of first sheep-
farming country in the world, and Wool now forms the' great staple of our
home prod6cti6n and expoi^t trade, the annual valile of this item being
about £3 ,000,000 sterling.
Only thirty years ago, previous to the time of Sheridan and Harratt,
sheep were of no value; they were what was termed '«creole,)i and the
W(^, not being worth the freight to towA, waSoften thrown iti the « cotralw
to make a footing for the animals. Sbe^p were merftly raised for food, •
aiid Held entirely by njftives ; they Werfe bafdly worth a papier doUahr, say
fotirpeucri, each. Pet^r ShiStidatt was an IrishmW}' Johri'H&i^it an
Eriglishnifah, and they were the first to import fine i^^ep into Baaios
Ayres, theit example beitag soon followed by John Hatiniiti (af Scdtchman),
Steginan (at German), and^ others. As soon as attentioifwai tiime^l to this
branch of industry many people took it up, and went out into the ^amp,
b^ntiitigwith a flock or 500' or !,<)Off r theTrishme*uJJttparttctilai*, of the
siilaideWJS of Ba^racas, who had laid by a little money, bought flocks of
sheep at a few pence per head, and laid the foundation of the large fortunes
that many of them have since amassed; In 185^ the number of sheep was
estimated at 4,SO0,W)O. With the refinement' of the breed, and the
improved attention paid to sheep, a market speedily sprung up for thei
wool, and sheep rose in value tiU 1859, when they were worth ten Shillings
a head. Meantime the Irish farmers had steadily gone on purchasing all
lands offered for sale, and paying as high as £8,000^ per square league, or
twenty-six shillings an acre (being five times the price of farm lands in the
United States). They also spent money lavishly in the refinement of their
flocks, sometimes giving £150 or* £200 sterling for a prize ram of the
Rambouillet or Negrettilireeds.
Sheep-farming reached its height in I860,* when the flocks counted
nearly 14,000,000 sheep; the farmers had 'made such fortunes that a
sheep-fever seized the town-folk*, and lawyers', shop-keepers, tailors,
saddlers, midwives, &'c. embarked iu the business. The demand for
rented land was so great that apuesf os» for a single flock of sheep fetched^
as much as £80 a year, and the scarcity of hands being felt the farmer^ ^^
14
LIFE IN THE CAMP.
sent home money to Ireland to bring oat their relatives. Things went on
well for a couple of years, but, on the conclusion of the war in the United
States, the price of wool fell, while the depreciation of our currency
caused a corresponding rise in wages and all items of farming expenses.
The wars of Flores and Paraguay, and the troubles of the interior caused
a disastrous increase of taxation that weighed almost exclusively on the
sheep-fermers and producing classes, who saw their Splendid profits vanish
from before their eyes, and sheep-farming henceforward did little more
than pay the current expenses. But greater trials were in store for them*
The increase of sheep was so rapid, doubling in five or six years, that
there were no longer purchasers for the extra stock, nor lands whereon to
place it, and the amount of wool being proportionably increased its price
suffered a further ruinous decline.
In 1867 the high rate of wages, rent, and provisions, coupled with a fall
of nearly SOpercent. in the priceof wool, as compared with 1864, reduced
the value of sheep to about twenty pence ($10m^), and, as if to crown the
aiSiction of the farmers, the cholera brok^ out with terrible virulence,
causing the most unparallelled havoc throughout all the partidos. Two
thousand Irish perished, including some wealthy estancieros, and ip many
cases their flocks wandered about the camp, there being no one to
claim them.
Since then a season of. recuperation has set in. The price of wool has
indeed, improved slightly, and sheep no longer offer the prospect of a
brilliant venture as in days gone by. Nevertheless a new form of industry
has sprung up, in the melting down of sheep for their grease, which has so
much enhanced the value of the flocks that sheep have risen to §20 a head.
There are graserias now established in all parts, and it may be estimated
that 5,000,000 sheep are melted down per annum.
The following comparative statement will show the steady increase in
the export of wool : —
Year.
Bales.
1860-61
60.734
1861-62
67,161
1862-63
88,780
1863-64
96,679
1864-65
130,860
1865-66
150,453
1866-67
155,078
1867-68
180,000
1868-69 estimated clip,
•■••
SOOjOQiCoOgle
SHEIP estahcias.
15
The increase in the exportation of sheepskins has been still more
remarkable, viz. : —
Year.
1860*61
1861-62
1862-63
1863-«4
1864-65
1865-66
1866-67
1867-68
Bales.
8,888
'10,766
13,960
16,733
19,855
20,761
29,924
40,035
It is to be remarked that in 1863 no fewer than sixteen new tanneries
were established, which reduced the expprtation of sheepskins by at least
2,000,000 skins.
Sheep estancias are generally smaller than those for horned cattle, say
from half-a-league to four or five square leagues in extent. Some Irish
estancieros have only half a square league (say 3,000 acres) with a stock of
10,000 sheep; otiiers have estates of four or.more square leagues, stocked
with 100,000 sheep and upwards, . .'A flock. ysually counts 1,500 to 3,000
sheep, and is managed. by one man. on hojg^back. . The flocks of different
estancias, and even those of the same estancia, are distinguished by the
<iscfial,» or peculiar mark cut in the ear. The pastures of the sheepfarms
consist of fine grasses, which, in sumjner, are protected by forests of
gigantic thistles from the scorcliing heat of the sun. Frontier lands are
found unsuited for sheep, till the course grasses have been eaten down by
cattle. There are certain poisonous herbs, such as «romerilla» and
<rmio-mio,» which sometimes cause great losses in flocks. • Sheep also die
from eating white clay, or getting the leech in low, marshy, lands « The
scab is a great plague to sheep-farmers, but of late years the application of
extract-of-tobacco is used with much success as a remedy. Perez Mendoza
recommends iS of tobacco juice to five quarts of water, to be rubbed daily
to the parts affected, or a mixture of 4fi of grease with lU of turpentine
and iU of Swedish tar, applied in like manner : for prevention of the
disease he prescribes good pastures, cleancorrals, and well ventilated sheds.
• The profits of sheepfarming are a subject that has exhausted the
calculations of the oldest farmers and the ablest economists in the country.
At one time it was generally believed that a flock of sheep, minded by the
owner in person, gave 80 or 100 per cent, per annum. The increased
expenses and depreciation of the currencj brought d#wn the estimate to
60 or 70 per cent. Subsequently, the burthen of new taxes, and decline
16 LIFE pf THE CAMP.
in the wool mtfrkets of the ^orld, reduced the gains to barely 20 per cent.,
and this is probably the maximum figure that can novf be quoted.
New comers going into the sheep business consist of — 1st. Men of
capital, say ft-om £5,000^ upwards ,- 2nd. Those who have a few hundred
pounds ; 3rd. Those who have nothingat all. The first class may calculate
as follows:—
Half square league of land, .... .... 163, O&O
10,000 sheep at 3^ ....
House and corrals, .... ....
Carts, horses, implements, ....
Provisions and wages, 1st ^ year,
This vrtH give — ^first year —
1,500^ of wool at 8«.,
2,000 sheep for graseria at 35.,
Deduct—
Three peons, at £30, •
Groceries, &c., . • • • • . . . • • •
Personal eii>enses, .... ..••
jtianis, •••• .... .«.• .t.^
Nett profitis, .... £450
Leaving a nett gain of 9 per cent on the capital invested;, ind^etident of
the increase of the flock ; and this will go on in arithmetical proportioa
at the rate of 20 per cent, per annum.
The majority of intending sheep-farmers, however^ are young men with
a sum of, say £300, and their best manner of proceeding is this. They
arrange with some estanciero to buy the half a flock, and enter with him as
<cmedianero.)) Thus a 1 ,000 Sheep at is, cost £150, leaving the remaining
£150 for the expenses of the first year ; the estanciero sometihies goes half
in the cost of rancho and corrals; he givesrthe (cmedianero)) a piece of
ground about ten <ccuadras)) by 10 (say 400 acres) rent free. The flock will
comprise 2,000 sheep, the ccmedianero)) minding the estanciero's half, in
return for the land. This is the safest way to begin sheepfarming, as the
estanciero gives every assistance to the beginner ; and, in this way^ many
of our wealthiest proprietors commenced life. The partnership usually
lasts three years, in which term the flock doubles, and the <cmedianeiro»
has 2,000 sheep of his o\*Ti, and looks out for a piece of rented latid
whereon to settle. The term «medianero» signifies «oii hatv^;» as all
1,500
100
200
200
£600^
300
£W0
£90
100
160
100
£450
SH£|iP OH THIRD9. 17
-expenses and profits are shared eyenly between bim and the estanciero.
The «inedianero» system obtain^ only in the province of Buenos A.yreSy
where it has ^oved most advantageo^s for all parties ; it is not known in
Entre Rios or the Banda Oriental.
The 3rd class of immigrants, by far the most numerous, and formerly the
most successful, consists of those who land on our shores without a shilling.
They begin as peons or servants, hiring with some estanciero at ^30 a year
($300 per month) to mind a flock of sheep ; they are found in horse and
provisions, sleeping either at the estancia house, or in a rancho on some
part of the land. Their life is a rude one, especially if quartered in a
rancho with no other company than a couple of dogs. They have to cook
and wash for themselves, digging a little qninta in the intervals of
recreation when the sheep are quietly grazing ; but, every now and then
they have to run up the ladder at thegable^endof th^ rancho, to see that the
sheep ore not straying or in danger of mixing with a neighbor's flock. For
such contingency a horse is always kept ready saddled at the apalenque,»
near the entrance to the hut. If the shepherd has a taste for reading he
can 'take a book with him into the camp, and lying down beside his horse
pass the day in this mannier. Sometimes the ((puestero)» Qr sbeph^rd does
not return home till sundown^ when the sheep are always shut into their
«corral,» which is a square or oblong enclosure fenced with American, pine.
At night he makes bis lonely supper and lies down on a rude couch, not
nnfrequently a pUe of sheepskins^ to rise again before day ; and this is the
round of a apuestero^s* life.
It often happens that when a man has proved himself to be steady add
sober, the estanciero gives him a flock of sheep on thirds, that is the peon
gets one third the increase of the flock and the same proportion of the nett
proceeds of the wool. Under ordinary circnmstanees the «tercero,» as he
is then called, becomes owner of half a flock in three or four years, and
then he goes into partnership as «medianero,)> in the manner already
describe^. The aterceron has no expenses of any kind, being found in
everything by his employer, and he often lays by a little money each year,
as he spends not much on clothes or the comforts of life. A stranger is
astonished at the rudeness of this mode of life, especially when he finds,
as often happens, that the occupant of the hut is a man who has moved in
fasbionaUe society. The life of a «puestero» is certainly healthy, and free
from the gnawing cares of city life, but its great drawback is solitude.
The poor man, of bumble origin, who has his wife and family around him,
is comparatively comfortable and happy ; but, a man of reduced fortune
Digitized 'by VrrOOQlC
18 LIFE in THE GAMP.
can seldom reconcile himself to the idea of asking a woman of his own
position to share the rude home of a rancho.
At present camp-life is much improved, in comparison with ten years ago.
Railways have placed the principal estancias within a day's journey of town,
and the little comforts or necessaries of life are easier procured. Most of
the sheep-farmers are subscribers to some of the London or Irish papers,
and the Irish clergymen have established lending-libraries' in the various
districts for the use of their parishioners. In every Irish house, too; ia
found a tutor who teaches the children the rudiments of education ; these
tutors are paid from £3 to ^£5 a month and treated as a member of the ..
family, for which reason young men arriving here without money often hire
in this capacity. The Irish shepherds, ^living within four or five leagues of
a town, gallop in on Sunday mornings to attend at Mass, and get their copy
of the Weekhf Standard with all the latest news from town. Those who ^
live within easy reach of a railway station get the daily papers, and the
taste for reading has wonderfully increased in the last few years. The
Irish clergymen resid^t in the camp are always attentive to the spiritual
wants of their countrymen, and also act as friends and counsellors, since
they enjoy universal confidence. It is right to add that the Irish sheep-
farmers are very liberal to their pastors, even in times of comparative
distress.
The Scotch sheep^farms in the south are well worthy of especial notice i
the neatness, style, and good order, both in the estancia bouse and all its
belongings, are very pleasing to the visitor. You are sure to find also, a
good supply of books, and on Sundays the formers attead their kirk,
although having to ride some leagues. The Scotch were among the firstta
start as sheep-farmers, and some of them to-day are richer even than the
wealthiest Irish, but their numbers are relatively small. In the better
class of Scotch and Irish estancias the traveller will find all the comforts
and many of the luxuries of civilized life ; but should he be benighted
and obliged to stop at the humblest rancho of one or other of his
countrymen he is sure to find the warmest-hearted hospitality. It is na
less true that the poorest gaucho is by nature most hospitable ; he will give
the stranger the best his house can afford, and gladly cede his only bed to
the weary traveller.
Within the last two years a number of courageous Englishmen, of good
family and education and with a capital of a few hundred pounds each^
have established themselves on the Indian frontier, some beyond Azul,
others in Patagonia, with the object of raising sheep and cattle. Nothing
can exceed the hardship of such a life, and it is not without its dangers als^|^
LAND Aim fflEBP OM THE FBOJITIER. 19
For immigrants of this class it may be well to advise them that the Govern-
ment of Buenos Ayres gives a free grant of a square league of land for a
certain term of years, on the expiration of which the settler receives aright
of (cenfiteusis,)) which has Always a marketable value ; and if the settler
wish to become absolute owner of the land he has the preference as a
purchaser at the price fixed by law and on long credits. There are always
many wealthy natives owning land in the frontier partidos, who are only too
anxious to find steady foreigners to take sheep and cattle in partnership,
and for this the immigrant needs no capital. The reason why foreigners
are in such request for this purpose, is, that natives are liable at any
moment to be taken up for military service, and the condition on iithich the
estanciero receives these frontier lands from Government is to keep a house
and certain quantity of stock on the ground.
Life in the camp has a peculiar charm for young men emancipated from
the office desk. The free air and bounding steed give an elasticity and
vigor both to mind and body that cannot be expressed. The savory taste
of meat cooked on an «asador» surpasses the finest cookery of European
«chefs-de-cuisine.ii The complete liberty of thought and action induce a
buoyancy of feeling that compensates for all the hardships undergone ; and
it is a strange fact that young men who have distinguished themselves in
universities and ball-rooms get quite an affection for camp-life. This,
however, wears off when one reaches about 30 years of age ;/we get tired
of the camp and its dull monotony, and sigh for the refinement and comfort
of city life. There are many people in Buenos Ay res who are so disgusted
with all remembrances of camp-life that they can hardly be induced to
mount a horse or even visit an estanciero friend. Fortunes have been
made in the camp, and are still to be made in minding sheep : one thing is
requisite, the shepherd must stick to his sheep as close as possible, live
very economically, and abhor the sight of a (cpulperia.^ We shall now
begin our tour through the partidos, beginning with the north, and in every
instance the distance will be calculated to the chief town or centre of the
partido.
BBSPiQitized by
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no
THE JUVEPIIIE PAATIDOS.
CHAP. II.
THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS.
FROM BELGRANO TO SAJf NICOLAS.
Belgrano.
This partido does not properly form one of the camp districts, being merely
a suburb of Buenos Ayres, and as such it has been described in Section B.
It is bounded on the North and East by the River Plate, on the N.W. by San
Isidro, and on the S.W. by San Martin and Flores : it covers two square
leagues. The Municipality is composed of six members, and has a revenue
of about 500,000 ny;. per annum. The property valuation amounts to
25,000,000, against 12,000,000 in 1862. The state-schools are attended
by 76 boys and 89 girls. The largest land holders are —
Name.
James White,
L. Oliver,.,..
L. Saavedra,
R. Sebastiani,
F. PloAves,
M. Lebrero,
Bias Gonsalez,
P. Calderon,
Corbalan, ....
Caadras.
278
100
110
67
53
23
80
42i
29
Name.
Colin, ....
L. Torres,
Xautillaa, ....
Castillo, family,
Cabrera, ....
Munita Bros.,
L. Goya, ....
Scher, ....
John Malcolm,
Caadnw.
35
40
24
.74
30
40
20
20
18
There are fifty smaller chacras, making, with the above, a total of 10,000
acres under tillage. There are also 227 handsome country-seats, of which
the principal are —
Digitized by
Google
s;i* TsmKO.
i
Kime.
Vdui.
Kam.
Ttlae.
P. Berger,
. $300,000
L. Walter, ....
$150,000
E6t6ves Sagui, . • .
200,000
Machain, ....
140,000
Francischelli, . . .
260;000
Latdapide, ....
120,000
Serna,
250,000
CSappi, ....
120,000
Solanet, ....
150,000
Caprile, ....
200,000
P. Guerin,
150,000
Acosta, ....
150,000
R. Weston, •••.
150,000
Chiateauneuf, ....
200,000
Mrs. F. Gowland,
150,tf00
Haycroft, ....
200,000
Morillo, ....
250,000
Tobal, ....
216,000
leidle,
HO^OdO
• Santamaria, ....
150,000
Gamiaoy ....
150,000
' Sanguinetti', ....
1«0,000
B. Costa, ....
180,060
Bocba, ....
150',OJDO
A. Glas, ....
125,000
Petrocchl, . . . . •
sso'.Iboo
6i*oteoii, ....
15tf,000
Piran, ....
150;000
Hartenfels, ....
1S0,«0D
/. M*Dotmell, ....
124,000
Iturraspe, ....
150,000
uiias, .... ....
180,000
F. Mird,
160^000
Caito, ....
140,000
Piaggio,
250,000
Gattleia, ....
200;000
Ravier,
22O;OO0
Bosch) . • . •
i4o;ooo
Amorins, ....
150,000
•
This partido incladds Palermo, thfe former residence of Rosas. (Si
Se^ion B).
Sm 1
sidro.
21
Situate five leagues North of the city, is alike remarkable for the beauty
of its situation and the fertility of its grain chacras. Along the barranca
overlooking the River Plate there is a succession of charming quintas, Mrhich
make San Isidro a most fashionable residence in the summer months. The
largest land-holders are —
Nam«.
Cnadraa.
Kame.
Cuadfas.
L. Uriarte,
480
M. Ellas, ....
53i
M. Aguirre,
240
Posas, ....
53i
Azeuenaga Bros., . . .
187
G. Rua,
60
A. Pacheco,
160
B. Marquez,
48
L. Martinez, . . . ,
106^
M. Perez, ....
48
J. de Luca, . . . .
104 !
A. Cast ex,. ...
40
Saent-Valieiite, . . . .
58|
M. Gutierrez,
40
Seflora Omar, . . . .
Y. Escalada, . . . .
86 ,
80 1
if. Baptista, . . •^ 37
M. Alvarez, ^iaitized^by V^OO^^e
22
THE BIVEBIKB PARTIDOS.
V«lue.
Name.
Yalae.
. . $250,000
Haedo, ....
100,000
250,000
Velasquez, ....
120,000
250,000
Wiueberg, ....
48,000
200,000
P. Anchorena, ....
180,000
200,000
Ituarte, ....
130,000
{ C. SaQuz-Valieiite,
160,000
130,000
i E. Anchorena, ....
180,000
150,000
( Selaya, ....
100,000
.. . 150,000
. Segismundo, ....
200,000
150,000
• •
Veraet, ....
40,000
There are numerous handsome residences surrounded, each, by a few
acregibf fdeasure-ground, and the following arfe the principal : —
. (Kalne.
T. Anchorena, .
S. Gampodonico,
Uribelarrea,
B. Saenz- Valiente,
Juan Gano,
Mrs. Mackinlay,
E. MarqueZy
M^Leqn,
Parav^cini,
James Brittjun, . . .
Elortondo, .
1 Among smaller holdings are those of Benby, Moore, Hunt, Yat^lnan,
Nelson, Tornquist, Sinclair, andj other foreign, residents. The total
popoperty valuation amounts to 16,000,000, against 14 000,000 in 1(862.
Tbequintas and chacras are mostly cuUiva^d by Basques and Italians, 'who
mak^ much money in supplying Bu^os Ayres with hay, wheat, maize, and
v^etabtes. About thirty years.agd the district was much infested With
gaucho highwaymen. The partido iformerly comprised four square l^ues,
but on the formation of Belgrano it lost half its territory* It contaitts at
present 1506 chacras, covering about 10,000 acres, all under (mltivalion.
The farming-stock consists of 4126 homed cattle, 1.267 horses, 760 sheep,
and some swine. The population of the partido is set down as follows : —
Argentines 2793, Italians 459, Spaniards 202, French 150, English 45—
Total, 3,649. There are — a Justice of Peace, 8 Alcaldes, 42 police, and
380 National Guards.
Tlie village of San Isidro was founded in the beginning of the last
century, and has a very ancient look. The church stands on a high ground,
with a plaza in front and a fine view of the coast. Araujo relates that, in
the year 1706, the inhabitants of all the territory lying between Las
Gonchas river and the Arroyo Maldonado being destitute of religious
service, a gentleman named Domingo Acasuso, who was a Spanish captain
and a native of Madrid, resolved to build a chapel lierfe in honor of St.
Isidore ; for this purpose he endowed the parish with a pension of §2,000,
and a site of ground 300 yards x 6,000. The chapel was inaugurated on
Pentecost Sunday 1708, its first curate being Rev. Fernando Ruiz Gorredor.
There are — an inn, 3 drapers' shops, 28 smaller stores, and about 600 j
inhabitants, who have a Municipality composed of four members. Xher^l^^
SAH frrnahdo. 23
is a good public school, attended by 72 boys and 46 girls. The Northern
Ba'dway places San isidro i^ithin an hoar's joarney from town, and the
morning papers are delivered in time for breakfast The post^master is
Don Kmilio Sarrapan. There is no doctor resident in the pbce. The beach
offers good bathing, but it is dangerous to ride along the coast owing to
quicksands. The boundaries <tf the partido are — M.E. th« Riyer Plate,
N.W. San Fernando, S.W. San Marthi, S.E. White's chacra (Belgrano).
Ckmtribncion .or property tax, $64,000. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel
Omar; Curate, Rev. Diego Palma.
Sun Ferniando.
Situate seven leagues fh)m Buenos Ayres, is, like San Isidro, remarkable
for qnintas and chacras. It is bounded on the N. and E * by the River Plate,
on the N.W. by the Bio Las Gonchds, on the W. by tan Martin, and on ^e
Soath by San Isidro. It'inclqdes, tnoteover,.a number of fertile islands in
what is dolled the Delta of the Parand. San. Fernando is important, no
less fbr its agriculture than for its coasting trade : it has a good and safe
port, where many river craft put in with cargoes of fire-wood, posts, &c.
Mr. Hopkins' project of canalising the Gapitan will prove most beneficial,
and a branch railway will be run down to the river's side, wh^re wharves
are already in construction. The arrives In I coasting-craft for the year
amount to 262 vessels with an aggregate of 6,664 tons cargo. The islands
are mostly in a high state of cultivation, having been sold or ceded a few
years ago to a number of industrious Trenchnien, Basques and Swiss. In
M. Brunet's island there is constant employment for over lOOli^orers, who
raise abt^dant crops of potatoes and other products. Such is the
extraordinary fertility of these islands that we are told of pumpkins which
take two men to carry them, and potatoes weighing as much as loU. The
quinces also grow to an enormous size, and tlie rapidity with which poplars,
peaches, and other trees spring up is incredible. It is thought these
islands would be well adapted to the growth of rice. The islands of
President Sarmiento, Seftor Pifteyro, &c. ar^ also well tilled. The
inhabitants of course go about in boats, and there is a school attended by
100 children who travel everyday in the same manner.
The town of San Fernando has 3,000 inhabitants and the rest of the
district 1,112, but this cannot be supposed to iUclude the islanders. The
extent of the partido is about 2 square leagues, of which nearly one-
half is under agricultdre. The largest predictors are — ^
24
THE RtVEBlirS PARTIDOS.
Kame.
Yfthie.
Kame.
Value.
Thomas Valle,
300,000
Ahjel Crow, ....
1S0,00<^
Ybafiez,
400,000
Crisol, ....
1»0,«0»
A. Gonde,
190,000
Lima, .... ...»
200,000
6. Espinosa,
180,000
P. Villaruel, ....
3S0,0©0>
Seflora Castro,
120,000
P. Vela,
180^000
Jasto,
145,000
P. Almandos, ....
130,000
George Drabble
, 300,000
L. Almandos, ....
120,00&
Pietranera,
150,000
Catelin, ....
200,000
J. Rodriguez,
150,000
Salguero, ....
150,000
There are smaller holdings, tIz., those of Russell Shaw, Billinghurst,,
Bletcher, Delfino, Fusoni, Gloede^ Hughes, Pringles, and other foreign
residents. The total property valuation exceeds 16,000,000 against
{§,000,000 id 1863. Tbechurehwasfoandedin thebeginmng^crfthe present
century, but a lar^r^r one is being con^ruct^d in th^ (dlaa. There are
two good hotels^ and omnibuses ply to the railway station: at ^heWotel
NationKl^ kept by Monsieur Manet, the tfayeller can proeure bcKtaes or
carriages for excursions. The dub gires ballls on Sundi&y dveatiigs
in Summer. The town has its own Justice of Peace and Municip&lityfftnd
boasts a resident d<totor, an apothecary, 6 midwires, 5:balLer8, 2flUwer-
smiths, 3 UacksmitJi, 5 carpetiters, I chandiery, 3 taikurs, 1 saddler^ 2.hair-
dressers, 6 billiard-tables, 4 draperies, 2 1 small stores, * and {180= hduses.
There are 256 National Guards, and the police authorities number
5 Alcaldes, 20 Tenientes, and 1 2 policemen. The farming-^stock oompriKes
439 cows, 338 horses, 2445 sheep. The population returns ^give^—3;d05
Argentines, 116 Spaniards, 77 French, 458 Italians, 156 £nglish> &c.
Besides private schools there are those of the State, attended by 59 boys
and 69giris. San Fernando has long been a favorite resort in tiie hot
season, and since the opening of the NcMrthern railway it is placed within
easy reach of the city. Justice of Peace, Don Adolf o Insiarte; durate,
Rev. Bernardo Rep<^o ; Postmaster, Don Luis Lan.
Zas Conchas*
Between the rivers Liijan imd Las Conchas, a territory of about 4six
leagues, once was located the tribe of Guacunambis consisting of six
hundred families, but the exact locality of this Indian seUleineat is
unknown, in the year 1614 the Spaniards kept a special fpuard here to
stop smuggling from Colonia, and in the year 1720 the first settlement of
the present town was made. The principal landholder at that time. was
Don Juan Ponee de Leon, who out of his own pocket defrayed the exfieases
UbS conasis. 25
of boildiBg the ehui>eh. Owiog tothe vlUage being built on tlie margin
of a swamp its progress was rery slow. In the year 1820 Don Lorenzo
LopeE built a CapiUa^ the Government bating contributed $10,000. The
wealthy native families of Buenos Ayres have country residences in Las
Conchas, and in summer it is oheof tlie gayest places about town.
Nothing can be pleasanter than a boating excmsion in the Luxan,
Conchas and Tigre rivers, which are overshadowed by large willow-trees,
aad bordered on either side by elegant ceuntry-seatis. Getting out of the
train at the Tigre terminus we take a boat and desoatd the stream. On
the right is the Capitaoia, a. wooden house on poles, similar to the shanties
and shops that make up the Tigre vilhige* Zurueta's qointa adjoins the
bodt-hoase of the EngKsb yacht eldb, and fitrther on are nestling in the
trees thie cottagetiof UpanragUitre, Aguirre, Urioste, and Oolz. On the
left is Guedb's, and lower down ft styl^ building, much t^estmbling a
^uilch;;. this is: the 'SoniBier readence of Do* Bduardb Ifadero. In high
floods all about here is a^ swamp. Mac^hall of Barraoas has a yard for
bmlding^steamers'ontherlght,; and ne&t comes VivaniH^^squinta; ptdUng
out into tiie wid6 river of Luxan^ there is acharming view on all sides,
and here is Always )a. ttumber of steamecft lying up f6r repairs . AsceikUng
theLuxan river, which was andiently called Bio de Corpus Christie wepass,
otithe left, the site marked* out by flubio and Foley fot the:termiiius of the
new line and the landing wharf of the proposed port : there Js always over
Id feet of water here, even when the Tigte is almost di^. Tigers are
sometimes seen here, and Mr. Milberg has caged two, which he trapped on
his own ground : they tleiseend the ParunA in seasons of acreciente^i^ on
the camelotes or floating islands of brushwood.
The Tigre is the port for embaikation in the up-river steamers, :^hich lie
dose along the wharf; at the railway station M. Champion keeps an
excellent restaurant. There is also a good hotel on the Conchas side, kept
by Mr. Cramer: ferry botits charge i$n^ for going across. Mr. C. has
good wines and boats, and horses or waggonettes may also be procured.
Adjoining the hotel is the dockyard of Stevens and Kay, where you will
sometimes see as many as 120 operatives at work, building or repairing
steamboats, iron launches^ <&c. ;:this is a great.estabiisfament, begun in
1868, and they can build a small steams in three to four months; the
naehiuery is from* Glasgow; Messrs. S. &E« have another foundry iu the
city at Paseo Julio. If we take a boat to ascend the Tigre we shall find a
suoeession of delightfiil country-seats. Those of Garrigos^ Tejedor, and
Gonzales Moreno are princely, and after Gob6's, Del Gampo's and Balbin's
we pass.uiKler a p&ettlresque wooden bridge; now the rivei takes a bend^
26 THE RIYBEUTE PAATIDOS.
and on the right is a charming cottage belonging to Dr. Alvarellos, after
Tvhich come those of Lynch, Balbin, Majesty and Schultz. On the right
is the Lavadero ^f Senor Zumaran, which does a great business in
washing wool and sheepskins ; next is another cottage of the Lynch
family, and further is that of Dr. Scrivener, the only English resident in
these picturesque but swampy regions. During the cholera of 1867 the
Doctor lent such valuable service, gratis, that the Municipality of Las
Conchas presented him with a gold medal. Mr. Lawson's quinta comes
next : all these sequestered cottages have bathing-houses, stairs down to
the water's edge, and a boat. The Tigre is navigable about a league
further, but the only places we meet are Joifii's cane-cutting establishment
and a deserted house that was built a couple of years ago by half-a-doien
Crerman clerks as<a summer residence. Betuming; to. the Tigre station we
remark in its vicinity the qointas of Bomero, Martihez,and Anciso.
The village of Las Ckujtchas [Reserves some very ancient-looking hoftees
with corridors and tile-roofs, which remind us of the time when this was
the limit of the Indian frontier northwards. The church is very neat, wfth
an antique portico : the altar and sacristy wefcre put up, in the last centuiy,
at the expense of a pious lady named Magdalena Bonelo, and the first Mass
was celebrated by a friar named Goy tia. There are numerous quintas in the
neighbourhood belonging to the following fan)ilies — Bocba, Bulrich,
Cahadilk, Carrega, Acufia, Cebey, Castrelo, Alcorta, Comi, Schleeper,
Ibaaez, Hudoa, Hernandez, Brilli, Acevez, Arana, and that of Sefior MuAoz
is remarkably fine. The vegetation about here is rapid and luxuriant : in
summer the quintas are full of the richest fruits and flowers.
Las Conchas is about 24 miles from town, and will shortly be connected
with Buenos Ayres by two lines of ralilway ; the Western branch-line will
start from Floresta and cross the Tigre near the wooden bridge ; it sepsis
the Northern Bailway also proposes to throw a bridge over to Las Conchas
island, and make its terminus likewise on the Luxan river.
The partido is subject to frequent inundations, being mostly below water
level, which accounts for its amazing fertility. It is intersected by two
large rivers ; the Luxan and Las Conchas. The former has its rise in the
camps beyond Mercedes, and the latter is formed by the confluence of the
arroyos La Choza and Durazno, near the town of Moreno. The Canada
Escobar and arroyos Tigre, Garcia, Las Tunas, &c., also form a part Of the
water system of Las -Conchas, where they unite with the ParanA.
The Partido covers three square leagues, which are chiefly under
eultivation. The largest landed proprietors are^ John Milberg 1200
-cuadras, Anjel.Pacheco (whose place is valued at$l|000,000m/b.)> aad
o
ZARATE.
27
Yillamayor 1 188 cnadfas : these are estanderos, and there are nine smaller
estancias. The stock Comprises, 6,250 cows, 2,650 horses, 57,369 sheep.
The boundaries of the partido are — N. and E. the ParanA, S. San Fernando,
and W. PUar.
' The population is set down at 1,681, including 373 in the Tillage; the
nationalities are thus distributed, 862 Argentines, 435 Italians, 169
Spaniards, .32 French, 179 English and others, 1 Indian. There are 21
general stores; also a Justice of Peace, Municipality of four members, 60
National Guards, 4 Alcaldes, 17 Tenientes, and 9 policemen. The State
school is attended by 25 boys and 52 girls. The total property valuation
is 7,000,000, against 3,000,000 in 1862. Gontribocion or property
tax, $28,000. Justice and Postmaster, Don Damaso del Gampo ; Curate,
Rev. Geronimo Rebagliata.
Zarate.
Situate 16 leagues If, of Buenos Ajrres, on the banks of the Parani, is
the first sheepfarmin^ district we meet. It was fDrmerly part of the
Capilla del Sefior, till 1 85G!. The land is rery high and ill-suited for sheep,
but good for grain crops. Of late years the plantation of cereals has been
actively increased , and we find a large number of chacras. The Partido is
supposed to cover 20 square leagues : there are 59 estancias and 140 tillage
farms. The land of the former is valued at §600,000. that of the chacras
at nearly double this figure, per square league. The total extent under
tillage is 20,000 acres. '
The principal estancias are —
Name.
8.
Leagaefl.
Nam<».
8. Leagues.
Lima, family,
4
Murray,
Latorre, family,
3
Gelves,
Insua, • . . •
3i
Hermida, ....
Soler, ....
H
Gastex, ....
Acebey, ....
i
Pujol,
Saavedra, ....
2
Rqmero, ....
> . • . . X
J. Fox, . }. .
i
Barrios, family,
J. Celery,
4
The estancias of Lima and Saavedra occupy the «rincon» formed by the
confluence of the Areco river and Canada Honda with that branch of the
Parana called Rio de Baradero. The La Torre property is called Las
Palmas, from an old Jesuit establishment of the same name which existed
here in the last century : the ruins of the chapel of the Fathers are still to
be seen; there are also a fine plantation of «tala» and an excellent port fbr
28 THE Bivmnos partidos.
coasting traffic. The Insna iestatida is S.E. of tfae riVer of Areco, and
reaches to the booiMkfy of CapUla del Scflor. Mr/ Fox's place is close to
the Arroyo Pesqueria, about two leagues S.W- of Zarate*
The Irish population is about 100. The town, although a river port,
is very poor, having only three houses yaiued over $60,000: those of
Silvano, Soler, and Saavedra. Don Gonirtancio Silvano owns nine bous^ :
his property is valued at $500,000ra^. Mrs. Cullen has also h house.
The importance of Zarate consists in its rivet trade, and during the
Paraguayan war it was the great port for shipping hbrses fbr headquarters.
The steamers up and down the river call here twice a w^ek each way. The
Italian boaftmen do a large business in firewood, chiurooal and Oandubay
posts. Zarate probably takes its name from the Vice -roy Zarate, md there
are still numbers of the inhabitants who bear tte same name. The toWn
has a new church, a State school, 4 billiard-rooms, 3 inns, 20 shops, and a
cockpit. It stands on a barrAnca 60 feet over the river, and the
port is.in low marshy ground, where Sig. Silvano has built a wharf. The
stale-school is attended by S3 boys and same ntunber of girls. Zarate has
a Justice of Peace, Municipality, 4 Alcaldes, 16 Tenientes, 10 policemen,
and 470 National Guards. The population of the district is returned as —
Argentines 3,185, Germans 5, Spaniards 49, French 72, Italians 86, English
39 ; total 3,436 : of this number the town has about 700. There are 836
houses in the partidoi The stock is estimated at 32,139 cows, 13,832
horses, 390,970 sheep, and 6,679 swine. The landed property is valued at
15,000,000, against 8,000,000 in 1861. The principal chacras are those of
Anta, Acebey, Conde, Balvidares,Gaetan,PalacioSj Sosa, Silvano, Vidal, and
Zarate. Post-master, D. Luis S. Martinez. A few leaguesbelqw Zarate is
Port Gampana, where Dr , Costa has a fineestancia. Near this point seteral
affluents ftll into the Parang, viz. : the Arroyo Romero and La Cruz,
Arroyo dd Moujan, and the Pesqueria. The river Areco and Cafiada Honda
empty their waters a little above Saavedra's estancia. Some of the
islands fronting Zarate are settled on, with cattle and sheep farms. This
branch «f the Parang is called <(de Ids Palmas,)) from the old Jesuit port
above-m^itioned. Contribucion tax, $60,000. Curate, Rev. Nicolas
Aquerone ; Justice, Don Romulo Nazar.
Baradero.
Situate 27 leagues N. of Buenos Ayres, is* a large sheepfarming
department^ with a sup^ficies of 41 fequare l«aff*e^.g.^j^g^^yQoOQle
]liAftA11£B0*
29
1
TfacTAare ninetyi-two estancias, of vfhich the principal are-
Name. 6. Leagues.
Ntune.
8 Leagmea.
Castex, family, ..,. 11
Eosell, ....
i
P. Lyach, , . 8
Bodrignez, .
4
San Martin, famUy, 3
Alsina,
4
Edward Wallace, I
Troneoso,
4
George Macome, .... 1
Salas,
i
M.O'Rourke, .... ^
P. Whelaa, .
i
M. Brennan, .... .... J
J, Murtagh,
4
Caraailos, family, . • . . 1
Pereyra,
4
Casco, family, .... 1
Pinero,
4
Sierra, 1
Muriftigo, ,
4
Passo, .••• • .... IJ
Gelv^,
4
S. Gomez, 1
Figuecroa,
i
Tapia, family, .... 1
Cabriotti,
i
Magallanes, i
Villaruely
4
Medina, J
H. Gonnaugh
tlu^
4
Ibe lands are well stocked, the returns showing an average of 1,000
cows, 250 horses, and 13,0dO sheep to the squajre league. The Cartes
estanoia lies on the north bank of the river Areco, and compriseB six
distinct prc^erties, bel(Hkging to Ramon, Pedro, Fermin, Feliciano,
Mariano, and Indalecia Castex : Ihis fine estate is also watered by the
Arroyo Doblado, which falls into the Areco river. The estancias of Lynch
and Wallace are on the Gafiada Honda, but Lynch has a second estate on the
Rio de Arrecifes. Macome and Gomez are also on the Arrecifes river.
The San Martin lands extend southward from Baradero to the mouth of the
Areco river. The O'Rourke estancia is near the Caflada Bellaca; and
Murtagh and Whelanare further south, near Caflada Los Toros. There
are many Irishmen on rented land, besides medianeros, &c., and the total
Irish population is about 300.
The estancia land is valued at ^iOOjOOO per league. The stock
consists of 40,863 cows, 9,573 horses, 328,680 mestiza sheep, 6,032
refined do., and 10,848 Creole do.; I,8i0 swine. There are 696
cliacras let out to tenants ; each chacra is 200 yards wide by 200 long ; the
annual rent of each is $90, and they can be purchased out and out at an
upshot price of $600. Thequintas are 100 yards long by 100 wide ; there
are 284 of these occupied by tenants, at an annual rent of $30 each. The
boundaries of the partido are — N. the Parana and San Pedro, W. the river"
Arrecifes, S. San Antonio de Areco and Zarite, and E. the ParaqA. ^
Opposite Baradero is a difficult pass in the river, called Nueve Vueltas. 30glC
30 THE RIVfiElHB PABTIDOS.
Baradero owes its imporlance to the Swiss Golday, established here ia
185&) which has been so prosperous that some of the colonists have
amassed as much as £8,000 sterUag, and others almosJL as large fortunes.
These industrious settlers arrived here without a shilling and fortunately
met a good friend and protector in Colonel Gainza, who induced the
Municipality to grant them chacras of 3 euadras each at a nominal price.
Thej have about 10,000 acres under tillage, and supply the various river
ports with butter, potatoes, &c. (For full details of the colony see
page 31, Section A).
Baradero is one of the oldest towns in the province: it was founded in
1616 by the venerable Luis Bolailos, a Franciscan friar, who accompanied
St. Francis* Solano in his perilous missions among the Guarani, Mbiguay,
and Ghanas Indians. The. chapel was dedicated to St. James, and Padre
Yaldi via became its first curate in 1628; sometime later the parish was
incorporated with that of Arrecifes, but again restored in 1781. Although
so ancient, it is a poor village, there being only nine houses valued at $50,000,
viz., those of. Alsina„fidsabilvaso, Gabriotti, Gasco, Frumento, Falconieri,
Honsaliro,iPi|kerp,':aiul fuppo. Post-master, Don Juan Antonio Alonzo.
The Muaioip^litjcpmnteiiced in 1859 a large school-house on the barranca,
whidi remained man); (years unfinished, but the Government has nowf;iven
$200,000 for , its cdtnpletion, and it is intended, moreover, to receive
boarders from the neighboring districts. The population of the partido is
set down thus — ;Argentines 3,709, Germans 282, Spaniards 90, French 162,
English 95, Italians 242, others 20— total 4,601. There are 139 houses and
780 ranchos, including an apothecary's shop, 2 inns, 10 draperies, 35 stores,
3 brick-kilns, and several timber-yards. The state-school is attended by
122 boys, and 64 girls, besides which there are private schools attended by
61 boys and 59 girls. The land in this partido is considered very good for
sheepfarming, although only valued at $400,000 a league. It is so thickly
settled on, that it would be difficult to find any to rent or buy. The Irish
farmers have prospered here, and their numbers greatly increased during
the last ten years. The landed property is valued at 20,000,000, against
13,000,000 in 1862. The partido is well watered, by the Arrecifes river
and Gafiada Honda, besides having a considerable front on the Biver Parang.
The steamers call at Baradero twice a week, each way. The Municipality
consists of 6 members : there are also a Justice of the Peace, 1 4 Alcaldes
and Tenientes, 14 policemen, and 1,000 National Guards. The port
returns shew 343 vessels with an aggregate of 4,205 tons for the year.
Municipal income, $240,000 ; Gontribuciou or property tax, $80^0. In
1867 the Provincial Bank established a branch at Baradero for this district
Digitized by
SAlf PEDBO.
31
and the adjoioing ones of Zarate and Capilla del SeAor, with a capital of
$2,000,000 iD^. Justice, Don Carlos Lynch ; Curate, Bey. Francisco
Bianchi.
San Pedro.
Situate 31 leagues N. of Buenos Ayres, is another fine sheep-farming
district, with an area of 52 square leagues. It comprises 63 estancias, of
which the following are the principal : —
Name.
6. Leagues
Kame.
S. Leagues.
Llavallol,
3
6. Palacios,
• H
Jose Castro, .... ...
2i
Quiroga,
• • . . .
I 1
Lorenzo Gomez,
2i
Urraco,
. • . • .
1
Luis Obligado,
2i
Laserna,
• • . • .
f
Pastor Obligado,
. 2J
ViUar,
• • ...
. i
Manuel Cobo,
2-
Bttiz Diaz, .
» * a • • •
i
Bruno Castro, . . . .
2
Ex. Castro, •
1 • • . . .
i
Leslie, • . • •
2
Pio Acosta, . .
. « • . •
1
Lapirida, ....
1
Boque Palacios,
i
Villalon,
1
Buiz Moreno,
i
Magallanes, .... ....
H
There are also four Irish
estancias
, that of Mr. John Earring
ton being
well laid out ; the others are those of Luke Doyle, T, Wheeler, and Thomas
Fallon. Besides these there are namerous other Irish farmers, mostly on
rented ground, all doing well, viz. : Michael Dogherty, J. Kehoe, Thomas
Young, Michael McDonald, J. Cronin, and the Messrs. Finnery, who have
7,000 or 8,000 sheep each. The land is valued at $450,000 per league :
total valuation 21,000,000, against 7,000.000 in 1862; Contribucion
$84,000. There are three square leagues of public or municipal lands,
and the Municipality seeks to foirm a colony like that of Baradero, in
<(chacras» of 12 acres each. The returns of stock shew, 101,564 cows,
23,185 horses, 7,144 fine sheep, 643)790 mestiza do., 67,840 Creole do.,
and 1,217 pigs.
The Leslie estancia, called Estrella del Norte, may* be considered the
model one of the north, as regards elegance, comfort and good order. The
house is a handsome residence, and stands on a rising ground, surrounded
with pleasure-gardens, and the accommodations are in keeping with the.
hospitable character of its owner. There is a good portion of ground
under tillage, and the estancia has permanent water, being bounded by the
Arrecifes river : the stock ^ sheep is large and of superior quality, the
peon's huts are neat English cabins, the workshops of |^th^u^lablishm^|^
32 THE RIVERUIB RARTIDOS.
are large and fully fitted with presses, forge and every requisite for
baling the wool on the spot, previous to shipment. There arespaeions
sheds for rearing of fine sheep, storing hay, &c., and for the shearing of
the flocks. The cattle-farm is at the old estancia house, near the Arrecifes
river. The estancia forms a <(rincon» between the Tala and Arrecifes
rivers. The Llavallol estancia has a port on the Parand, at the mouth of a
stream called Las Hermanas, where the steamers call : this is another fine
establishment, the owner being a wealthy Spanish merchant, . who has
spared no expense in all modern improvements. A few leagues lower
down is the Ohligado estancia^ where Rosas vainly attempted to close the
Parand against the English and French fleets. Don Pastor Obligado was
the first constutional. Governor of Buenos Ayres after the fall of Rosas:
there are several Irish farmers on his estancia. . Opposite to Obligado is a
large island called Las Lechiguanas ; near this is- a pass called Tonelero,
and the Arroyos Espinillo and Gueros debouch a little lower down. The
boundaries of San Pedro are — N- the ParanA and Ramallo, W. Ramallo, S.
Baradero, and E. theParand.
The town of San Pedro is large, but built in astraggling manner atong
the barranca, .which commands a panoramic view of the Parautl and its
numberless islands. There are some 30 good shops, and an. inn is kept by
Don Martin Pagardoy (agent for the S^ndard), where horses, can also be
procured. Thetown has also a churchy state-schools^ a graseria for melting
down sheep, two. resident doctors, several brick-kilns, and 3,248
inhabitants. The Rev. John B. Leahy, Irish curate, is about to establish a
library for the use of his countrymen of this district, who number with
their families about 1,000 souls. Father Leahy has also to attend his
countrymen in the districts of Arrecifes, Pcrgamino and San Nicolas,
embracing a territory of nearly 3,000 square miles. The town of San
Pedro has. 86 rateable houses, the best being those of Mamberto, Molina,
Palacios, Molero, Casoo, Banegas, Urreta, Quiroga, Aguirre, Telechea,
Pardo, Lantero, Gafferot, CamelLno, Arrieta, Bibolian, Chacon, Salas, AAese,
Belizan, Magallanes, Biancardi, Rubio, Villar, Ruedas, Paredes, Soler, and
Quiroga : the house •property of the town |s valued about §4,000,000.
Tlve population of the district is returned thus — Argentines 4,923, English
340, Italians 182, Spaniards 150, Trench 124, Germans 7, others 63 —
total 5,789. There are 254 hoBBes, and 954 ranches, and 189 chacras.
The Municipality consists of seven members, besides which there are — a
Justice of Peace, cujrate, 3 Alcaldes, 9 Tenientes, 11 policemen, and 638
National Guards. Steamers touch at San Pedra almost daily. The port
returns for the yefir shew 254 vessels with an aggregate of 3994^tQns0lp
RMCOH DE E&M4LL0. 33
Th6 state^cbools are attended by 60 boyd and 52 girls. Post-master,
DonEugenio Arnaldo.
Some of the estancias above enumerated no longer belong to San Pedro,
having been incorporated in the qew partido of Ramallo; of these the
principal are — ^the estancias of Llavallol, Gomez, Laprida, and Luis
Obligado, besides the smaller properties of Olmos and Arias on the Arroyo
Las Hermanas. In the above list for San Pedro we have casually omitted
the estaucia of Demarchi, one and a half square leagues, and Juana Perez
Millan, one league, both situate on the Arroyo del Tala. The partido is
well watered on all sides, by the rivers Parana and Arrecifes, and the
Arroyos Las Hermanas, Los Cueros, La Tala, Espinillo, and others.
The town of San Pedro is 3 leagues N.W. of Baradero, 13 S.E. of San
Nicolas, 17 eastofPergamino, and 11 N.E. of Arrecifes. Between this town
and Arrecifes an Irish chapel is being built, under the auspices of Rev. Mr.
Leahy. Justice of Peace, Don Facundo Quiroga ; Curate, Bev. Martin
Pader. Municipal revenue, $121,000.
Rincon de Ramallo.
This is a new partido, chiefly formed out of t^at part of San Nicolas
adjacent to the Arroyo de Ramallo, where Mr. Lewis Boothe, an American
settler, has a fine estancia. Nearly half the large estate of Stegmann has
been cut off the partido of Arrecifes to be incorporated with Rsfmallo, and
San Pedro has had to cede in like manner the estancias of Llavallol, Gomez^
Laprida,* L. Obligado, Olmos, and Arias. The Irish population here is
about 100. The land is well watered by the Arroyos Bamallo, Laprida,
Las Hermanas, and Seco. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel J. Guerrico, jun.
The partido lies between San Pedro and San Nicolas, on the banks of the
Parand, having an area of 33 square leagues, embracing 70 estancias. The
stock is set down at 54,518 cows, 16,8i5 horses, 1,500 fine sheep, 450,000
mestiza sheep, and 30,000 Creole sheep. The land under agriculture is
estimated at 3,000 acres* Population— 1856 Argentines, 97 Spaniards, 36
English, 32 Italians, 30 French, 3 Germans— total 2,054. There are 76
houses and 470 ranchos in the district, including \1 general stores; but
there is as yet no town. The Justice of Peace has 5 Alcaldes, 15 Tenientes,
and 7 policemen.
On the banks of the river which divides this partido from San Nicolas
is a fine flour-mill, which although of recent date, does a large
business. It is proposed to erect a bridge over this river, as the passes arc
CO
34
TH« RIVERINE PARTIDOS.
extremely dangerous even in the dry season. Mr. Boothe has placed the?
district under great obligations by keeping a canoe at the pass for the
convience of travellers, but frequently the canoe has been swept away by
the torrents. Land in this district is. now scarce, but a few years ago-
sheep puestos could be had at a very moderate rate.
San Nicolas,
Situate 45 leagues N.W of Buenos Ayres, is an important agricultural
district, contiguous with the frontier of Santa Y6. Before the formation of
Bamallo into a distinct partido, San iSicolas had an area of .38 square
leagues, containing 170 small estancias and 651 chacras: of the latter only
120 are rateable. The chief estancias are —
l^ame.
8. Leagues.
Name. ' 6
1. League?
Acevedo,
... li
Boldan,
.. li
Leonardo Pereyra.
... li
Fernandez,
.. i
Inocencio Pico,
.... I
N. Guerrico,
" i
Bamos,
... 2
Insaurralde, . . . . '
• • i
Machado, ....
.... 4
Barrera,
.. i
Diego Alvear
.... i
Jos6Bojo,
.. i
M. Guerrico, ....
.... i
CastUlo,
.. i
There are not many foreign sheep-farmers, other than Tait, Savage,,
Boxwill, Mrs. Hogan, Barker, Stickney, Pearson, Barry, Neale Brothers:
the total Irish population does not exceed 100. The estancia lands are
valued at $400,000 per league. The returns of stock are — 54,105cows^
11,930 horses, 3,000 fine sheep, 265,000 mestiza do., 69,000 Creole do.,
and 1,526 pigs.
The amount of land under tillage is more than 20,000 acres, and the-
principal chacras are —
Cuadraa.
105
54
90
52
45
122
70
The chacra lands are valued at $2,250,000 per square league, and,
although occupying barely one-tenth, they represent at least half the
landed value of the partido. ^.^^,.^^, ,^ GoOgk
Name.
Cuadras
Name.
Plfteyro,
... 1,200
Carranza, . . .
Lucio Hansilla,
300
Garreton, . . .
F. Bobles,
285
Aldao,
Lafuente,
192
Quiroga, . .
Salinas, ....
212
Bardon, . .
Seg. Garcia,
.f.. 120
Cardoso bros
Jose Buiz, ....
124
M. Pezzi, ...
Machado, ....
60
SAN HIGOLAS* 35
The city of San Nicolas is a port of some importance, about 1 i leagues
above Saa Pedro : it is the secood towu in the province of Buenos Ayres,
With a population of nearly 8,000 souls; it has 350 rateable houses, 25
dry-goods stores, 105 smaller shops, a church, state schools, a mill (the
property of Mr. Armstrong), a graseria (belonging to Mr. Hale), and
sometimes a small newspaper published weekly. The best houses are
those of— F. Gonsalez, Cerruti, Ponce, Bustamgante, Contrero, Gijena^
Iraurralde, R. Gonsalez, Figueroa, Basaldua, Ramirez, Echegaray, Ibiai^
Latorre, Bar6, Mallon, Dacombs, Baque, Fernandez, Alcarscs, Salina,
Mansilla, Roca, Alcaras, Cabezas, Pombo, A. Martinez. P. Martinez, and
Casenave, all which are assessed from $100,000 upwards.- The house
property of the town is valued at 18,000,000.
There are distinct Justices of Peace for the city of San Xicolas and its
rural district. There is also a Criminal tribunal here for the Northern
districts. The Provincial Bank established its first branch in this town, in
1863 : the regulations are similar to those of the parent establishment.
San Nicolas is styled «de los xVrroyos,» because situate between theRamalJo
stream and Arroyo del Medio, which latter is the boundary between Buenos
Ayres and Santa Fe. The boundaries of San Nicolas are — the Paranil on
the N. and E., the Arroyo del Medio on the N.W. and W., and the Ramallo on
the south. After the disastrous battle of Cepeda, in 1859, the infantry of
Buenos Ayres made an orderly retreat on this town, and embarked here for
the capital. The San Nicolas battalion was accidentally blown up a few days
later in the port of Buenos Ayres, on board the Havelock steamer.
Notwithstanding the elevated situation of the town it suffered much during
the cholera of 1867-68, perhaps owing to the uncleanly condition of the
streets. The population of the town and district are set down thus —
Argentines 10,056, Italians 608, Spaniards 582, French 499, English 51,
Germans 28, Indians 2, others 267— total 12,561 . There are 1 ,225 houses,
and 796 ranchos. The Municipality consists of 12 members; there are 16
Alcaldes, 42 Tenientes, 20 policemen, and 1,056 National Guards. .San
Nicolas possesses great advanges as a port, steamers and coasting-vessels
calling here daily, the landing place being about half a league below the
town; nevertheless its progress is not so rapid as that of the inland sheep-
farming districts. The state*schools are attended by only 100 boys and 81
girls. The telegraph-line from Buenos Ayres to San Nicolas has been
recently completed and will be prolonged to Rosario. The total valuation
of landed and house-property both for the town and the rural district
amounts to 32,000,000, against 1 7,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion,gl 28,000.
The port returns shew — 1821 vessels with an aggregate of 18,982 tons.
36 THE RIVEBmE PA.RTIDOS.
There is a club-house facing the public square, which affords hotel
accomraodatioti to travellers. The square is neatly laid out and well
kept : at times a band plays in the evenings. At Cataneo's store is the
Standard agency] strangers wiU obtain whatever local information they
may require ; also horses and guides. San Nicolas was so long and so
frequently the headquarters of the Buenos Ayres army that at one period
it boasted of a very respectable trade, but to-day half the fine houses m the
streets are shut up, and the place presents the most fallen aspect. The
lands are considered as peculiarly adapted for wheat and maize farms.
About 2 miles S. of the town was the encampment of General Mansilla,
during the fime of Rosas. In former years a saladero was worked to
advantage near the port : it was owned by Messrs. Garcia and Botet. A
large barraca is kept by Don Segundo Garcia, for receiving hides and wool.
Freights to Buenos Ayres, owing to the river navigation, are usually very
cheap ; produce should not be shipped without insurance.
San Nicolas is about 10 leagues N.E.of the battle-field of Cepeda, 5 E. of
Pavon, 1 S. of the Arroyo del Medjo, 13 N.E. of Pergamino, and 16 N. of
Arrecifes. Justice of Peace, Dr. Diaz Herrera ; Curate, Bev. Bartolomeo
Cerruti ; Post-master, D. Leonor Sanchez.
Digitized by
Google
THE KORTHEBU PART(D0$.
37
CHAP. lY.
THE NORTHERN PART ID OS-
Pi|LAR TO ARRECIFES.
Pilar.
Situate ten leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 38 square
leagues, and contains 170 estancias, averaging less than a quarter of a
league each. The principal are —
Leagues
i-
i
i
i
i
i
The camps of this partido are not esteemed so good as in the neighboring
districts of Laxan and Capilla del SeQor, yet there are some tracts of landp
Tery suitable for sheep. There are but three Irish esfancierod in me
Name.
S. Leagues.
Name.
AnjelPacheco,, ...
.... 3i
Pablo Lopez, .
F. Poucel, .
.... H
Michael Egan, .
J. J. Pinedo, ....
.... i
^ Huergo, family.
F. Piflero, ....
....• f
Burgos, family,
E. Despau, ....
.... -1
A. Alvarez,
F. Aguilar, ....
.... i
F. Amais,
P. Emandez; ....
.... 4
Jos6 Costa,
Beliera, family,
.... i
J.Cruz,
F. Maderna, ....
...: i
Carrion, family,
Ponce, family,. . . .
.... 2
Cufr^, fami^y, .
Oliveia, family,
.... I
Robert Kelly, .
Joaquin Lopez, ....
.... i
Mrs. Nowla'n, .
38 THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS.
district, but there is a large number yiho have rented land, and the total
Irish population is fully 300: they are visited by Rev. J. O'Reilly,
who resides at Villa Luian. Great injury to farming interests is
caused by the infinitesimal division of estancia lands, as happens in this
partido : it is not uncommon to find a «paisano» with an estancia a league
in length, but so narrow that he has to build his house sideways on his
land ; of course his cattle graze on his neighbors' lands, and the laws afford
little or no remedy. Mr. Peter Healy had until recently a very fine
«cabafia» of prize sheep, on the road leading to the Capilla. The stock of
the partido comprises 22,649 cows, 1 1,507 horses, 452 fine sheep, 405,992
mestiza sheep, 16,640 Creole sheep, 2,051 pigs. This is an average of 600
cows, 300 horses, and 1 1,000 sheep to the square league. The total amount
of land under chacra cultivation is about 800 cuadras, or 3,500 acres. The
estancia lands are valued at $420,000 per league, the chacra lands at
$050,000. The total landed valuation, including thie village, is
$16,000,000, against $10,000,000 m 1862. Contribucion tax, $64,000.
The ofiBcial returns of population are — Argentines 3783, French 218,
Italians 108, English 97, Spaniards 105, others 2— total, 4,313. There are
103 houses and 602 ranches, including 8 dry-goods stores and 31 other
shops. Besides the Justice of Peace and curate, there are a municipality
of 6 members, 3 alcaldes, 10 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 350 National
Guards.
The village of Pilar has 1 ,000 inhabitants, and is a neat little place,
tiituate on the Luxan river, which is crossed by a fine bridge built by Hunt
& Schroeder ; this bridge is, however, at times almost inaccessible, owing
to the marshes all around. The village stands on a high ground and has a
pleasant look. The new church has a turret visible for several leagues in
every direction. The streets Are twelve in number, but not all built on;
many of the houses are very good, the best being those of Echegaray, Melo,
Castro, Burgos, Benitez, Bordenaba, Basabe, Franco, Gonsalez, Laballen,
Lopez, Luexes, Navarro, Otaran, Ponce, Quinteros, Regueyra, Rodriguez,
Rivadaveria, Silva, and Viscayar. The place boasts 3 inns, 2 doctors, 3
schools, and a mill ; coaches ply daily to and from Moreno station on the
Western Railway. There are twenty-six chacras in the vicinity of the
village, where wheat and maiie are cultivated. There is one square
league of municipal or public lands, between the Arroyo Escobar and the
Luxan river. Although these rivers are pf permanent water, in dry
seasons a drought is often felt where the lands are .high and dusty. It is
difficult to procure land in this partido. The boundaries are — on the north
the Parana and Capilla del Seflor, oa the west Luxan, on the south Morenejlc
CAPIttA DEL SEJiOR. 39
and on the east San Fernando and Las Conchas. The state school of PilAr
is attended by 70 boys and 68 girls. Mnnicipal revenue, $130,000.
Jostice of Peace, Don Alejandro Diaz Franco; Curate, Rev. S. Guridi;
Postmaster, Sor. Ghigliazza.
Pilar is four leagues N.E. of Luxan, 5 M. of Moreno, 6 W. of Las
^[ionchas, and 9 E. of San Andres de Giles.
Capilla del Sefior.
Situate 14 leagues N.W. of Buenos Ay res, has an area of 18 square
leagues, and contains 43 estancias and 49 chacras: of the former the
^principal are —
Kfone.
6. Leagues.
Name. 8. Leagues
Costa, ....
2i
Sosa, family, 2^
Mrs.Delamore, ....
2
P. Pugh's heirs, .... i
John Fox, . . . •
i
Diaz, family, 1
James Scally,
1
Morales, |
James Gaynor, ....
n
Castro, family, . . . .* .... i
John O'Brien, ...•
i
Mrs. Cullen (T. Fallon), .... i
Edward Lennon,
i
Harrington, .... .... i
Slanagua,
i
P. Bustos, i
Mrs. Tormey, • . . .
4
J. Castro, i
Borbon, ....
f
Melo, family, . . , i
Ben. Lynch, ....
....
i
This partido is quite an Irish settlement, our countrymen owning half the
landed property and most of the sheep ; the total number of Irish exceeds
1,000. There are few districts in which they have be§n more successful
Xhan here, and the lands are well adapted for sheep-farming. The Culligan
estancia at Monte Nadal, is not included in the above list ; it is also a a fme
property. The partido is watered by the Caflada de la Cruz and its
affluents, the Arroyos Romero and Monsalvo. The returns of stock are,
18,146 cows, 13,209 horses, 1,124 fine sheep, 679,344 mestiza do,, 6,800
Creole do., 2,138 pigs. This is an average of 800 horses, 1,100 cows,
and 40,000 sheep to the square league.
The amount of chacra land under cultivation is very large : there are no
exact returns, bat we may estimate the area at more than a squarfe league,
the principal chacras being those of Avalos, Aguilar, Alvarez, Beliera,
BurgueAo, Barrios, Basabe, Casco, Diaz, Fragosa, James Fox, Gutierrez,
H arrington, Martinez, Ortega, Pacheco, Ponce, Roldan,^ Romero, Sos^,
40 THE IfORTBERN PARTIDOS.
Santellan, Salaberry, Tapia, Toledo, Tavares, and Urseley. The land for
estancias or chacras is uniformly vsdued at $500,000 per square league.
The total valuation is 15,000,000, against 12,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion
tax $60,000. This partido is oflicially called Exaltacicn de la Cruz, but
better known by the name of «the Capillar » the boundaries are — N. Zarate,
W. the rivers of Areco and Giles, S. Luxan, and E. Pilar. There is a
bridge over the Areco river at Pasode Sosa, near Mrs. Delamore's estancia.
Many of the Irish estancias are comfortable, well-arranged establishments,
and the quality of sheep is very fine. Lands cannot be obtained hereat
any price, and the general character of the neighbourhood is one of
persevering and prosperous industry. The lands belonging to Irishmen
exceed 7 square leagues, or 45,000 acres in extent, and represent
$3,500,000 at the Government valuation. Add to this 500,000 sheep, and
we shall have some idea of the success of our hard-worlting countrymen ;
all the above-named wealthy estancieros arrived in this country without a
shilling, from 10 to 20 years ago.
The village of the Capilla has 1,152 inhabitants, with state-schools,
church, juzgado^ several good shops, brick-kilns, an English doctor, Irish
curate, apothecary's shop, and 52 rated houses ; of these latter the best
are those of — Lamarque, Larrosa, Mrs. Tormey, Juan Sorano, Padin, Perez,
Ordo, Molinares, Insua,^ Ibarra, Iriza, Furco, Darrios, and Arias. A house
has been purchased by the Irish farmers for the residence of their curate.
The new church has been built in great measure by the liberality of the
Irish sheep-farmers; the works were solemnly inaugurated in 1806 by
Archbishop Escalada and Governor Saavedra. The laie Mr. Tormey had the
intention of building a chapel on his own estancia for the immediate
neighbors, but could not obtain the necessary ecclesiastical permission:
Darby Tormey was a fair type of the prosperous Irishman in these countries,
and acquired a large fortune in sheep and lands, besides valuable house-
property, but was cut off by cholera in the prime of life. The Capilla is
built on the edge of the Canada de la Cruz, about 5 leagues from the river
ParanA. The oflQcial returns of the population for the partido are —
Argentines 3,536, English 395, French 125, Spaniards 68, Italians 61,
Germans 9, Indians 1, others 32 ; total 4,227. There are 142 houses and
667 ranches, including 8 dry-goods stores, and 20 other shops. The Irish
clergyman is Rev. Wm. Grennon, whose mission also takes in the partido
of Zarate. Dr. Priestly has an extensive practise in this and the
neighboring districts. The neighbors of the Capilla have the use of a
Provincial branch bank at Baradero. There are 6 Municipal members^
3,Alcaldes, 15 Tenientes, and 12 policemen. The state-school is attend^j^
SAN AHDRES DB ORES.
At
by 57 boys and 60 girls. Justice of Peace, D. Jos6 Sosa ; Curate, F.
Antonio Romero ; Post-master, D. Manuel Montalvo ; Standard agent, D.
Juan Sorano.
The Capilla del Sefior is 4 leagues South of Zarate, 7 E. of San Antonio,
7 N,E. of Giles, 5^ N. of Luxan, H N.W. of PUar, and 10 W. of
Las Conchas. .
San Andres de Giles,
Situate twenty leagues N.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, was formerly supposed
to have an area of forty square leagues, but actually contains only eighteen
and tbree^uarters, which extent is almost entirely under estancias, there
bdng only twenty-two small chacras. The chief estancias are —
Name,
S. lAtignes.
Nav*. S.
Lc«g11(8.
D. Tormey's Heirs,
H
D. Flwes,
. 4
JP. Monsalvo, . . . •
H
F.Caseo, ....
. 4
K. Bustos, . , . .
1
F. JUaldon^do,
.. i
Dotta Pividal, . • . .
f
J. M. E<ihetarrla,
. f
DoM Ittonsalvo,
*
J.M.Casado,
. i
Dofia Saravi, - . . .
i
Dofia Lamadrid, •
. i
H. Riestra, ....
i
Francis Duberty,
. i
Charles Butterfield,
i
Pedro Salas,
. f
Rodriguez, family,
2
Patrick Wheeler,
. i
There are in all aeventy-fiYe estancias, averaging a quarter of a
eague
each, and including only three of foreigners. Nevertheless, the foreign
residents number at least 400.
The land is rich and well stocked, vmtered by the Giles river
and Arroyo del Suero, and valued at $500,000 per square league. Cattle
have been entirely replaced by sheep, even on the native estancias ; but in
many places the land is exhausted ft*om over-stocking. ' Rents are, of
course, very high, and this district will not at all suit beginners. The
returns of stock are — 13,306 cows, 8,414 horses, 325,421 mestiza sheep ^
15,900 Creole sheep, and 1 ,550 pigs. This is an average of 600 cows, 400
horses, and 17,000 sheep to the square league. The landed valuation is
$11,000,000, against $8,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $44,000.
The boundaries of Giles are — north San Antonio de Areco, west Carmen de
Areco, south Mercedes, and 0ast Capilla de Seflor. On the road from Giles
to Mercedes the traveller will remark the estancia of Mr. Butterfield, an
Englishman long resident in this country. Between Giles and San Antonio •
42 THE HORTflERN PARTIDOS.
he will pass the establishments of the Wheeler and Morgan families^ the
second being, however, in the partido of San Antonio.
San Andres de Giles is a poor little hamlet with 950 inhabitants, almost
destitute of trade or agriculture. It has no resident proprietors of any
wealth, and many of the streets are grass-grown. The church is new, and
there is a state school, attended by 38 boys and 55 girls; a few brick
houses, interspersed with numerous miserable ranchos, three or four good
shops, and a couple of inns, make up the village. There is a resident
doctor, and the best business houses are — Picheto's inn, Pelaez's shop, and
that of Seflor CucuUa. The Municipality will give building lots free.
There is no club, but numbers of pulperias and billiard tables. There are
eighty-six rated houses, including those of Dofia Saravi, Bustos, Monsalvo,
Biestra, Areyalo, Lezcano, Quevedo, Tarcetti, Flores,JMl. Rodriguez, Lopez,
Rivarola, Larrosa, Pividal, Acquarone, Pascual Rodriguez, Acutka, Navarro,
Silva, Veral, Cutilla, Andrade, Merlo, Gasado, and Ordofles. There are
some plantations about the village, mostly of fruit trees, but there are few
or no chacras for raising wheat, although a large proportion of the town
folk is composed of Italians or Basques. The river of Giles runs just below
the town, and a bridge is about to be built over it.
• The official returns for tlie partido are— Argentines 1822, English 207,
Italians 121, Spaniards 53, French 46, Germans 2— total 2,251 inhabitants.
There are 86 houses and 431 ranchos, including 4 shops and 87 minor
stores and pulperias. The partido has 6 alcaldes, 17 tenientes, 12
policemen, and 280 National Guards. Justice of Peace, Don Juan Silva ;
Curate, Rev. F. TiscJornia ; Postmaster, Don Juan Silva; Standard agent,
Don Fernando Pelaez.
Giles is 4 leagues N. of Mercedes, 6iE. of Carmen de Areco, H S. of
San Antonio, and 9 W. of Pilar.
San Antonio de Areco.
Situate 21 leagues NW. ,of Buenos Ayres, is bounded on the N. by
Baradero, on the W. by Carmen de Areco, on the S. by Giles, and on the
E. by Capilla del Seftor. It has an area of 28 square leagues, comprising
64 estancias.
There are also two lots of Government lands rented out, 1 square league
to Dr. Terry, and i a league to Seftor Casco. In this partido foreign sheep-
farmers are very numerous, holding one-fourth the land and mor^ than half
the sheep. The Irish population may be set down at 700- The estancias of
SAIV AMTONIO DE ARECO.
43
San Antonio are generally small, averaging less than half a square league.
The lands are very good, bat overstocked, and suffer severely in times of
drought ; nevertheless a drought is of rare occurrence, and the River of
Areco, with its affluents, the Arroyos Lavallen and Ghaftaritos, as also the
Canada Honda, afford permanent water. Some of the Irishmen above
mentioned are very wealthy ; the houses of Morgan, Mooney, and Donohoe
are comfortable and surrounded by fine peach-mounts. Mr. Chapeaurouge
has a very handsome estancia house near the Giles river ; this gentleman
is a native of Switzerland and a very enterprising man ; he is at present
experimenting on the production of Extractum Camis, similar to that of
Liebig. Most of the native estancieros are very poor, except Seflor
Guerrico, whose fine estancia borders the village eastward. The Justice
of Peace reports that there are several estancias a league and a-half long
by only a few dozen yards wide. Cattle have almost everywhere made
way for sheep. The returns are 40,192 cows, 9,884 horses, 5,730 fine
sheep, 411,984 mestiza do.\ 14,6^ Creole do., and 980 pigs: being an
average of 1,500 cows, 400 horses, and 20,000 sheep per square league.
Land is valued at $360,000 per league. Totrf valuation 12,000,000,
against 8,000,000 in 1862. Contrlbucion tax $48,000. The returns of
population are — 1,749 Argentines, 255 English, 182 French, 127 Spaniards,
43 Italians, 18 Germans, others 25; total 2,3^4. There are 141 houses
and 257 ranchos, including 8 shops and 15 small stores and pulperias.
The following are the principal estancias : —
Name.
Guerrico, ....
Morgan, ....
Lanusse & Co.,
Almagro, ....
Michael Duggan,
Casco, ....
Lima, ....
N. O'Donnell, ....
J. Duggan,
Mooney, ....
Olivera, ....
Jos^ Martinez, ....
The village of San Antonio de Areco is an old-fashioned place, founded
in 1759 by an estanciero named Areco, whose house stood on the site of the
present church, and who gave the necessary land for the village. Until
I'ecently there lived an old negro, the bell-ringer of the church, who
8. Leagues.
Name. S.
Leagues
... 2i
H. Gutierrez,
. 1
... li
Chapeaurouge, .... • . . .
• 1
... li
Alegre,
. i
... If
P. Figuerroa, ...
. i
... If
Patrick Hogan,
. i
... li
Alfcnsin,
. i
... li
Alen,
• 1
... i
N. Gutierrez,
. i
... i
G. Sosa,
• f
••• f
0. Molina,
. i
... i
Donohue, ....
. i
... i
Peter Kenny,
• i
44 THE J(ORTHERN PARTIDOS.
remembered the first settlement of the place ; it was then on the Indian
frontier. The village has a pleasant aspect northwards over the river of
Areco : the streets and plaza are very irregular, but some of the shops are
well-furnished, the best being those of Juau F. Font, Carlos Martinez,
Lima, Hurtado, Picheto, Casco, Jos6 Martinez, Gonsalez, &c. The old
church was in danger of falling and was pulled down, to make room for
a new one ; the first stone of the latter was laid on January 1st, 1869. A
new state-school has been recently built, which is attended by 6i boys and
4i girls/ There are two good afondas,» or inns. There are two
blacksmith's shops, that of Don Santiago, in the plaza, being the better
one. In some of the drapers' shops English is spoken, most of the
customers being Irish farmers. A fine one-arch bridge spans the river of
Areco : it cost about $200,000, mostly subscribed by the sheepfarmers, and
a toll is levied of $5 for a cart and $^ for a horseman. The trade of Ateco,
i§ very limited. There is a French tailor in the plaza'. An English doctor
is much wanted, also an English school-master, for the laVge foreign
population of the surrounding country. The resident Irish clergyman is
Rev. Felix O'CaUaghao, wlio also attends the Bar^dero district. San
Antonio is hardly progressing, although a new house is built now and then ;
the streets ore Very neglected, although the municipal revenue exceeds
$100,000. The population of the village is 1,200. The portido has 5
alcaldes, lOtenientes, 12 policemen, and 300 National Guards. Justice of
Peace, Don Carlos Martinez ; Curate, Padre fiossji ; Postmaster, Don Manuel
Gonsalez ; Standard agent, Don Juan Francisco Font.
San Antonio is 8 leagues W,S.W. of Zarate, 9i S. of Baradero, i2E.S.E.
of Arrecifes, 13 £. of Salto, and 7 E.N.E. of Carmen de Areco.
Carmen de Areco.
More generally called the Fortin de Areco, is situate twenty-seven
leagues W.?f.W. of Buenos Ayres, with an area of fifty square leagues : it is
bounded on the north by Arrecifes, on the west by Salto, on the south by the
new partido of Suipacha, and on the east by GJes. It comprises twenty-
seven estancias, averaging nearly two leagues each.
This partido was, until a fe vr years ago, shunned on account of its
proximity to the Indians; it has now become one of the most thickly
populated in the province, and is remarkable for its many first-class foreign
estancias. The aggregate of lands held by foreigners amounts to twenty
square leagues, and the Irishmen of the district are all wealthy a^{g
CARMEN DB AREGO. 45
prosperous. On all sides the trareller meets fine flocks and snug farm
houses ; most of the land is well watered and suitabl<?for sheep. About a
league north of the town of the Fortin we meet the American estancia of
Messrs Hale and Spring, one of the finest in the north ; it is called Estancia
Tatay, from a lagoon of the same name, and the lands are watered by the
river of Areco and Arroyo Tatay; the house is built in English style, two
stories, with every comfort of home life, and surrounded by commodious
farm-yards, sheds, a well-planted quinta, and a large grain farm ; the
establishment gives employment to a great number of hands, mostly
English and Americans, and the proprietors have been the first to introduce
the newest improvements of American model farming into this part of the
country ; the estancia is largely stocked, and covers 25,000 acres. The
Bowling estancia is even larger, and was bought a few years ago for tlie
trifling sum of £800, whereas the land is now worth twenty times that
figure : the late Mr. Bowling was a saddler in Buenos Ayres, and his sons
have inherited a fine property : the estancia house is about four leagues
S.W. of the village, close to a lagoon called Los Ranchos, which has also a
river of the same naine ; the lands are in five divisions, called San Miguel,
,San Luis, Santa Lucia, Santa Rosa, apd San Jos6, and there is a second
lagoon oh the estancia, which goes by the name of Laguna de Quevedo :
the Arrbyb de Raiichos cuts the estancia into two almost equal portions.
No less notable is the estate of Mr. John Buffy, about two leagues west of
the town,' and the same size as the Hale estancia : Mr. Buffy, during a
residence of many years, has steadily toiled upwards to the summit of a
sheepifarmer's any[)ition ; not long ago he was a poor puestero in a mud
rancho, with a few hundred sheep ; to-day he is master of a patriarchal
fortune in flocks and herds, and a ride around his estancia would be nearly
thirty English miles : the lands adjoin those of the Bowling property, and
are situate between the Ranchos and La Guardia arroyos. The estancia
next in size is that of Bon Patricio Lynch, who has also large estates in
Baradero, as we have already seen. Mr. Archibald Craig is an enterprising
arid poi)ular Scotch farmer, who has a good estancia about two leagues
south of the town, near the Guardia arroyo, and between the estancias of
Piran and Lezama : Mr. Craig has done marly public services to the neigh-
borhood. The estancias of Murray, Mullen, and Kenny are adjacent to the
river of Areco, and bounded on the N.E. by Hale's estancia, each nearly a
square league. Mr. E. Wallace has a fine property noHh of the Tatay : it was
formerly a portion of the Zapida estancia in Arrecifes. The Piran property
is the largest in the district, lying east of the Fortin, and watered by the
Arroyos Romero, Gomez, and La Guardia, and the river of Areco, The
46
THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS.
Stock returns are— 27,200 cow, 11,660 horses, 1,000 fine slieep, 600,30<>
mestiza sheep, 16,820 Creole sheep, and 395 pigs ; being an average of 500
cows, 200 horses, and 12,000 sheep to the square league. The Irish
population is over 1,000, and they have a resident clergyman. Rev. M-
Largo Leahy, whose mission also includes Salto, Itojas, and 25 de Mayo.
The official returns of population are — Argentines 3,220, English 400,.
Spaniards 139, French 133, Italians 100, others 145— total 4,187. There
are chacras and grain farms to the extent of about a league square. There
are 4 alcaldes, 12 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 427 National Guards. The
land is valued at $350,000 per league, but tlie establishments of Hale,
Duffy, Dowling, &c., are estimated at $500,000 per league. Total
valuation $22,000,000, against $12,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax,
$88,000..
The following are the principal estancias : —
Name.
8 Leagues.
Name.
8. L«agnM.
Piran, ....
5
Michael Murray,
.... 1
S. B. Hale, ....
4
Mrs. Kenny, ....
.... I
John Daffy,
4
J.MuUer,
.... I
Melo,
4
J. O'Connell, ....
.... f
Rocha, ....
H
N. Martinez, ....
.... i
DowlingBros.,
H
F. Romero, ....
..., li
P. Lynch, ....
2J
Dofla P. Romero,
.... 1
J. Stragannon, ....
u
J . Medina, ....
.... i
Lezama, ....
H
P. Rodriguez
.... i
Archibald Craig,
I
L. Daguerry, ....
.... li
Perisena,
1
E. Wallace, ....
.... 2i
Fortin de Areco is a town of 2,000 inhabitants, with a churchy stat^-
school, 20 shops and 60 good houses. The best shops are those of Messrs.
Moore and Ramos, Antonio Gonsalez, &c., and the flnest houses are those
of Arganiras, Manila, Ayerdi, Gonsalez, and Vasquez, valued over $100,000
each. A resident English doctor is much wanted. The Rev. Largo Leahy
has been Irish pastor for several years, and is zealous for the improvement
of his countrymen : he has established, four lending libraries in his mission,
viz. at the Fortin, Salto, Rojas, and Chacabuco. The library of the Fortin
was founded in I86i, and has 120 members: it receives by every English
packet eighteen home newspapers, and is regularly supplied with books of
interest for general readers. Father Leahy is also patron of St. Brendan's
Literary Society, which gives recitations, lectures, and debates on alternate
Sundays. The town also expects shortly to possess a respectable Seminary
for training children of Irish parents to commercial pursuits : a suitabM^
8ALT0.
47
biuld'mg is in course of ereotioa for this purpose. The Foreign Racing
Club of Carmen de Areco has meetings at certain seasons. The Irish
neighbors of the Fortin are among the most prosperous and liberal of their
countrymen. The town is irregularly built and badly situated, the
approaches from the south being sometimes impassable owing to wide tracts
of marshy land near the Arroyo de la Guardia. The church and state-
schools are new: the latter are attended by 88 boys and 94 girls.
Municipal income §120,000. The Provincial branch bank of Salto answers
for this district also. Justice of Peace, Don Melchor Ibarzabal; Curate,
Rev. Juan Pietranove ; Post-master, Don Jos6 San jUartin ; Standard agent,
Don Manuel Ramos ; Municipality, six members.
The Fortin is 6J leagues W. of Giles, 9 N.W. of Mercedes, 1 1 N. of
Chivilcoy, 16 N.E. of the Rio Salado, 7 E.S.E of Salto, 8 S.E. of Arrecifes^
and 13 S.W. of Baradero,
Salto.
Situate 34 leagues WNW. 6f Buenos Ay res, is bounded on the N. by
Arrecifes, on the W. by Rojas, oa the S. by Chacabu^, and on the E. by
Carmen de Areco. It has an area of 84 square leagues, of which almost
one^alf are public lands. There are 34 estancias, averaging IJ leagues
each; the principal are —
liame. B. League.
Dorrego, .... . . . r 13
Pacheco, 6i
Lanate, • • • . • • • • 4
James Bell, 2
Isaac Blanco, .... .... 2
Ayrala, .... .... 2^
John Riddle, 1
D. Berrutti, .... .... 1
B., Sierra,
Name.
B. Gomez,
M.Blanco,
J. Fuentes,
Michael Murray,
JohnHyland, ..
Patrick Murphy,
Wm. JIurphy, . .
E. Grigera,
C. Torres,
S. League^
... u-
... 1
... 14
... I
... i
... I
... i
. . . '3*
The progress of this partido is remarkable ; it is fast becoming one of
the most important in the nortli. Foreign settlers are gaining ground, the
pastures are eicellent for sheep, and camps hllherto vacant are being
rapidly covered. There are six English estancias, but the number of our
countrymen altogether occupied in sheep is very considerable. The Irish
population is estimated at 500. The Dorrego estancia^ about three leagim^^
48 THE MORTUKliN PARTIDOS.
W. of the town, is a great tract of country, watered by the Rojas river, and
its affluents, the Arroyos Saladas and Visnaga : it extends almost as far as
Rojas, and comprises /our establishments, the Bafiadito, Carmen, Saladas,
and Triunfo. The Pacheco estancia extends southward from the town
towards Canada del Huncal and Laguna de Artigas ; eastward is the fine
property of David Lanata, close to which is Mr. Murphy's estancia of the
Huncal. Those of Messrs. Bell and Riddle lie between the town of Salto
and Mr. Hale's estancia of the Tatay. * Michael Murray, Hyland, Blanco,
and Berruti are situate on the north bank of the Salto river, Ayrala is south
of the river, and Fuentes on the Arroyo del Huncal. The stock returns are
—55,000 cows, 16,110 horses, 1 1, 200 fine slieep, 515,000 mestiza do., 14,000
Creole do. ; being an averiige of 600 cows, 200 horses, and 6,000 sheep to
the square league. This partido is very suitable for beginners, as land of
excellent quality may be easily obtained : most of the Government lands
are held «in enliteusis» or squatter's right. Agriculture is beginning to be
attended to, there being 90 small chacras, and 13 larger ones. Population
returns — Argentines 2,^52, English 196, Spaniards 18i, French 206,
Italians 89, Germans 8, Indians 2, others 41 ; total 3,478. There are 180
bouses and 683 ranches : 4 Alcaldes, 18 Tenientes, 14 policemen, and 700
National Guards. The land is valued at $450,000 per league. Total
valuation 22,000,000, against 11,000,000 In 1862. Contribucion tax,
$88,000.
The town of Salto has a church, schools, bank, 2 doctors, 6 cloth shops,
3 carpenters, 2 forges, 12 groceries and pulperias, a comfortable inn, aitd
1 60 good houses : of the latter the best are, those of Lanata, Blanco,
Pisano, Sanz, Gundin, Escobedo, Grigera, Sierra, Berrnti, Herrera, Payan,
Martelo,Fontana, Palomino, and Delfiade, all valued over $100,000. There
are mail-coaches both to the Mercedes andChrvilcoy railway stations. The
town is on the south side of the Salto river. The branch bank serves also
for the districts of Fortin, Arrecifes, Chacabuco, Junin, and Rojas, having
a capital of $2,000,000m^. The Irish residents are visited by Father
Leahy from the Fortin, who established a circulating library here in 1865,
and a Literary Society in connection with same: The library subscribes for
nine European newspapers, and counts sixty members : the latter have
recently built two club rooms for the institute, where they meet on
Sundays, two cuadras distant from the Pla^a. The state-schools ate
attended by sixty-four boys and sixty-five girls. Municipal income,
$140,000. Justice of Peace, Don Benito Crisol; Curate, Rev. Felipe
Roccatagliata ; "Postmaster, Don Leon Avlles; Standard agent, Dom
Leonidas F. Blanco. ^'S'^'"^^ ^^ V^OOgie
ARREGIFES.
49
Salto is 5 leagues S. of Arrecifes, 14 N:E. of Juuin, 13 W. of Saa
Antonio, and 14 N. of Chivilcoy.
Arrecifes.
Situate 33 leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is bounded on the N. by
Raniallo and S. Nicolas, on the W. by Pergamino and Rojas, on the S. by
Salto, and on the.E. by San Pedro. It has an area of 125 square leagues,
comprising 59 estancias, of which the following are the principal :
Name.
s.
Leagues.
Name.
d. Leagues.
Molina bros. . ^ . •
. 15
Gimenez,
... li
Crisol br^
. 5
Blanco, ....
... 1
A. P. Lezica, ....
5
V. Perez Millan,
... 1
Jose Andrade, ....
. H
B. Perez Millan,
... i
Velez Sarsfield,
3i
P. Perez Millan,
... i
Saavedra, family.
. 5
Caae,
... i
Vifias bros
3
Caminos,
... i
Paredes. ' ....
^ 1*
Mosquera,
... i
Stegmann, ....
. 13
Homos bros.,
... I
Ortega,
4f
Bucetabros.,
... i
Lopez, family,
2i
E. Carranza,
... 1
Sillitoe,
2
Sra. Juarez,
... f
Roque Perez, ....
li
Pereyra sisters.
... i
Cobo,
. H
John Yaczmtch,
... li
Sierra, family,
. 5
Basigalup, family.
... k
Casa,
. li
Zapiola,
... 4
Sarlo,
. H
Bernal, ....
... 2i
The partido is watered by the River Arrecifes, which is formed a little
above the town of the same name, by the confluence of the Fontezuelas
and Salto rivers : the affluents of the Rio de Arrecifes are, the Arroyos de
Burgos, Gafiete, Luna, Gontador, Lopez, Gomez, Gantero, Invernada,
Laguafie, &c. The camps are among the best in the province, and the
partido has progressed greatly of late years.
Four leagues due north of Arrecifes is the estancia del Tala, the valuable
and model sheep-farm of Mr. George Stegmann, so well-known for its pure
Negrettis. The galpon is visible for leagues around and has the appear-
ance of a church. Brick puestos of one and two stories occur here and
there, and the estancia-house stands on a rising ground, nestling in groves
of peach-trees with farm-buildings scattered about ; and large meadows of
50 THE NORTHEHN PARTIDOS.
alfalfa are seen dotting the camp on all sides. The estancia is partly ia
Arrecifes and partly in the partido of Ramallo, and comprises altogether
17^ square leagues of excellent camp, three-fourths of which is rented to
Irish and other farmers, and the remainder forms the Cabaila del Tala ,with
a stock of 2,700 pure Negrettis and 35,000 fine sheep of cross-breeds.
The establishment is just twenty years old, and some remarks about the
origin of Mr. Stegmatin's renowned Cabanas may be interesting. So far
back as 1835 the late Mr. Stegmann, father of the present owners (George
and Claudius) imported from Germany 20 Negrettis of the Imperial Cabana
of Austria, and shortly afterwards 60 others: these animals were first
placed in the field or garden that now adjoins the British hospital, at the
foot of Calle Defensa. The Poronguitos Cabafia (9 leagues beyond Ranches)
was established in 1836; it now comprises some 10 leagues of camp and
60,000 sheep (including about 1300 pure Negrettis). The great attention
and good system of the brothers Stegmann in this line of business has
obtained for them a high repute, and they were awarded at Paris the, 1st
bronze medal for Argentine wool. The galppn of the Tala is perhaps the
finest structure of the kind in the country ; it measures 75 yards long by
21 wide, and can accommodate 1,500 prize sheep; it has 12 doors in the
lower story, and 6 in the upper, giving perfect ventilation, and the turret
(47 feet high) affords a view of the various puestos for leagues around ; the
edifice cost £2;500 sterling. There is a smaller «galpon^» that can also
accommodate a large number of sheep. There are several fine animals,
bred in the country, that give fleeces up to 2itt. The Negrettis are so tame
that in walking through the corral you find them to come and lick your
hand or pull the end of your poncho. There is also a <((nanada)) of
English ponies, comprising a variety of very handsome animals.
Nothing can exceed the comfort and good style of the estancia house,
where 3Ir. Stegman resides with his family, and has always a well-stocked
cellar to regale his friends or visitors. Mr. Stegmann was educated ia
Germany, and has held the post of Deputy to the Provincial Legislature.
The estancia runs 20 miles from N. to S., and is about 7 miles wide, beings
intersected by the Cailada Grande. Dr. Priestly of Capilla del Seaor has
sheep on a portion of the land. Adjoining the Tala estancia is that of Mr.
Sillltoe, managed by Don Miguel Murphy : it is apparently the oldest in this
part of the country, the house and venerable acacia trees bearing the
impress of the last century. The camps, like those all around, are
remarkably fine; the stock amounts to 30,000 sheep. To the E. of
Stegmann's estancia are those of Ortega, Carranza, Sierra, Andrade, and
Can6, which are intersected by the Arroyo de Burgos. That of
Digitized by'
?G©bg!(
ARRECIFES. 51
is called E$tancia del Paraiso, with fine rolling camps and two- comfortable
residences. The Sierra family has a second estancia, between the lands of
the Perez Slillan family and the Arrecifes river. The original Perez Millan,
in the last century, was one of the earliest settlers so far north, and his
descendants still own the land adjacent to the tow^n of Arrecifes, after
crossing the river, till we reach the estancia of Dr. Velez Sarsfield on the
Arroyo de Canete, about half-way to Stegmann's. The lands of Roque
Perez, Gimenez, and Villas are situate north of Fontezuelas river, and east
of Sillitoe's estate. The extensive properties of Crisol and Lezica form a
ttrincou)) between the Fontezuelas and Salto rivers. Loma Alta, belonging
te Sra. Saavedra Riglos, and the rest of the Saavedra estates, are S. of
Arrecifes, and are intersected by numerous arroyos. The Ponce Lopez
^stancia is close to the town, at the bend where the Salto river flows into
that of Arrecifes. The Molina estancias cover a great territory about
midway between the rivers of Arreco and Arrecifes. Zapiola^s and
Bernars properties are further west. The land is valued at $450,000
per square league, and the total valuation is §32,000.000, against
$7,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $128,000. The stock returns
are— 12 4, 861' cows, 23,520 horses, 4,780 fine sheep, 430,000 mestiza
sheep, 56,332 Creole sheep, being an average of 1,000 cows, 200 horses,
and 4,000 sheep per square league. The population returns are as
follows:— 3,103 Argentines, 121 EViglish, 111 Spaniards, 81 French,
55 Italians, 17 Germans, 2 Indians, 2i others; total, 3,514. There
are 184 houses and 555 ranches, including 33 pulperias: 3 Alcaldes,
6 Tenientes, 12 police, and 360 National Guards. There are only nine
chacras in the partido, with a total of two or three hundred acres under
agriculture.
The village of Arrecifes, situate on the river of the same name, has a
most picturesque appearance and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It is
more than a century old, and the first chapel was built by the founder of
the town, Seftor Pefialva: some remains still exist to perpetuate his
memory. The present neat and commodious church was erected by Perez
Millan, grand-father of the late Justice of Peace. The municipal house,
also in the plaza, has a Grecian front, and was built in 1866 by Mr. Michael
Carmody, architect. The public school and priest's house are worthy of
note. The chief shop in the town is that of Seiior Martinez. Trade is so
dull that sometimes all the ready money in the place does not amount to
£20 sterling. It is suggested for Goverhment to buy a quantity of land
around the town, and give it out in chacras and gardens. There is no
resident doctor, but an apothecary ; no library or club, talf-a-dozen billiard
PD2
52 THE HORTHERIf PARTIDOS.
rooms, three brick kilns, and forty-four rateable houses. The best houses
are those of Ponte, Rodriguez, Saavedra, Perez Millan, Astrada,Guerra, and
Catan, valued from §80,000 upwards. The new mill, of an enterprising
Frenchman, named Pomesse, is on the bank of the river, close to the town :
it is four stories high, cost over £4,000 sterling, and can grind 100 sacks of
flour daily, a tunnel of 180 yards long conveying the necessary water from
the river : the owner made his money in the village as a baker. There is a
fine bridge over the river, built by Hunt & Schroeder. The state schools
are attended by 54 boys and 48 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Jorge Steg-
raann , Curate, Rev. Jose Clotas ; Postmaster, Don Waldredo Rodriguez ;
Standard agent, Senor Martinez ; Municipality, six members. Municipal
revenue, §87,000.
Arrecifes is 12 leagues W.N.W. of San Antonio, 8 N.W. of Fortin de
Areco, 17 N.E. of Junin, II E.N.E. of Rojas, 9 8.E. of Pergamino, and 16 S.
of Saa Nicolas.
Digitized by
Google
THE HORTH AMD WEST PROHTIERS. 53
CHAP. Y.
NORTH AND WEST FRONTIERS.
PERGAMINO TO VEINTE-Y-CIUCO DE MAYO.
Pergamino.
Situate forty-two leagues N.W. of BuenoS Ayres, has an area of sixty-eight
square leagues, includiug three of public lands : it comprises no fewer than
192 estancias, of which several belong to Englishmen.
The partido is bounded on the north by the Province of Santa F6, from
which it is separated by sundry small aarroyos)) rising near the Lagunas de
Cardoso, on the west by Indian territory and the partido of Rojas, on the
South by Rojas and Salto, and on the east by Arrecifes. It is watered by
the river of Pergamino, called Rio Fontezuelas, and numberless aarroyos,))
some of which flow into the said river, and others into the Arroyo del
Medio. Mr. Hale's estancia is on the extreme frontier, ten leagues inside
of Fort India Muerta : it is on the highroad to Cordoba, adjoining the
Lagunas de Cardoso and Caflada de Paja. Messrs. Pefia and Anchorena have
a large estancia N. of the Rio Fontezuelas, about two leagues east of the
town of Pergamino. La Larga is the property of Don Jos6 L. Moreno, who
has also acquired the lands of Ruiz & Duarte, on the Arroyo Palmitas.
The land of the late R. Hastings lies between this and the Gata Quemada.
Patrick Fitzsimons adjoins Alberto Ortiz, who has a large lagoon on his
• estate. The Arroyo Cepeda runs through the lands of Azcuenaga and
Benitez, and here was fought the battle October, 1859, in which General
Mitre, although beaten, made a masterly retreat. Azcuenag
estancias, San Miguel and La Rabona, and near the latter Is^lia Ad
54
THE WORTH 1?(D WEST FROl^TIERS.
property of the late Don Pepe Herrera. The estancia of Fermin 0. Basualdo
is at Centinela, three leagues south of Pergamino, between the arroyos
Moutiel and Dulce. Lezama has a large property adjoining tke last-named
river. The lands of Roque Perez and Vifias are north of the River
Fontezuelas, and a little further we find the estancias of Mooney and
Figuerroa, on the head waters of the Arroyo Raraallo. The Acevedo estates
adjoin those of Benites, running in a straight line nearly five leagues, till
reaching the Arroyo del Medio. On the other side of this frontier line
there are numerous settlers, viz. : Maciel, Ramirez, Acevedo, Arias,
Gonsalez, Sanchez, Rivero, &c. The estancia Goycotea is the furthermost
in a W.N.W. direction: it adjoins Mr. Hale's, and is ten leagues inside of
Fort Melincu6. The chief estancias are —
Name.
WLeagiies.]
Kame.
S. Leagues.
E. Pefta,
....
6
AJfonso, family,
.... i
P. J. Acevedo, ....
4
Doyle's heirs; . *-. .
.... i
J. G. Lezama, ....
....
H
F. Basualdo, ....
.... 2i
Jose L. Moreno,
....
6
L. Cuets, ....
.... 2i
J. F. Benitez, ....
«...
3
M. Azcuenaga, ....
.... 6
J. Blanco, ....
• • • *
3
Echevarria, ....
.... 11
Arnold & Co.,
....
3
F. f iguerroa, ....
.... If
Patrick Fitzsimons,
...
1
P. Arnold, . . .
.... IJ
W.Allison, ....
....
Dofia F. Fuente,
.... I
\V. Fitzsimons,
. * • •
Sab. Kier, ....
.... i
Villas,
....
2
M. Ulloa,
.... 4
Richard Hastings,
....
14
F. Ojeda,
.... 4
J. C; Boer, ....
....
3
Cernadas, ....
.... i
Jos6 Herrera, ....
....
3
A. Diaz, ....
.... f
A. Loza, ....
....
14
Olmos, family, ....
.... If
F. Gimeaez, ....
• . . .
1
W. Mooney,
.... f
Quintana, ....
. . • •
4
J. Benrtez, ....
.... 1
S. B. Hale,
....
2
P. Barros, ....
.... 1
R. Trelles,
....
2
Barrionuevo, ....
.... i
Bett's heirs, ....
....
14
R. Baez,
.... i
F. Botet,
....
14
Zamora, ....
.... i
A. Basualdo, ....
. • • .
3
J. C. Vasquez,
.... i
Goycotea, ....
....
3
Sarmiento, family.
.... f
D. Schoo, ....
... *
f
Rodriguez, family.
.... i
M. Lopez,
....
4
A. Fernandez
.... 4
A. Silva,
....
4
Alexander Winton,
.... i
Roque Perez, ....
• . . •
1
Digitized by V:r005
PERGAMINO. 55
Tbispartido has always been so exposed and insecure as to be considered
beyond civilization, although the camps are usually verj good. One of the
earliest Irish settlers was the late John Doyle, who was murdered, along
with another Irishman, by the fugitive soldiers after the battle of Cepeda,
October, 1859. The English population is about lOQ. But for the dread
of Indian invasions this part of the province would make rapid progress:
the Provincial Government will doubtless give speedy attention to the
matter. At present forts Mollncu6 and India Muerta are next to useless :
in November, 1868, a band of twenty Indians and Gauchos made a raid
here, and caused much alarm. The partido is much infested with
vagabonds escaping from Buenos Ayrfo to Santa FS, and vice-versa. The
first estaneia going west from Pergamino is that called 'La Botija, of very
good land, after which we meet that of an old resident, Mr. Jacobs, who
has made great improvements. A little further is the estaneia Cerillos,
belonging to Mr. Michael Fitzsimons, formerly of Villa Luxan. The camps
now begin to get coarse, and we come to the estaneia Vanguardia, of Mr.
lyilllam Allison, then to the Caftada de la Paja, where Mr. Winton is
settled. Further still is Santa Isabel, belonging to Mr. Hale ; near this are
Mr. John Fox's place of Juncal Grande, and Mr. Michael Duffy's estaneia
Porvenir. There are few sheep since the last drought, but a coupfe of
jears ago the stock was very large : a great portion died, and much more
was driven off in quest of better camps. Mr. M. Fitzsimons has about
3,000 sheep, Mr. Fox ov^r 10,000. All the farmers have lost, not only the
increase, but nearly half thdir capital of animals. Don Diego Alvear is
establishing a large farm N.W., having purchased and measured a tract of
^ land on either side of the frontier between Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe,
extending from Mr. Hale's estaneia out towards forts Melineu6, Chailar, and
Nutria. The fear of Indians has obliged many settlers to change the
pastoral for the agricultural life, and now there are numerous chacras
springing up, belonging to natives as well as foreigners. The stock returns
are— 135^90 cows, 25,176 horses, 17,000 fine sheep, 658,329 mestiza
sheep, 24,500 Creole sheep, and 2,597 pigs, being an average of 2,000 cows,
400 horses, and 10,000 sheep per square league. The valuation of land is
§300,000 per league. Total valuation $23,000,000, against $13,000,000
in 1862. Contribucion tax, $92,000. Population returns are— 6,714
Ai^gentines, 146 French, 91 Indians, 57 Italians, 39 Germans, 25 English,
70 others— total 7,042. There are 315 houses, and 1,110 ranehos; 10
alcaldes, 26 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 1,265 National Guards.
^ The town of Pergamino was first used as a halting-place on the post-road
to Cordoba ; subsequently it became an important frontier outoost, but if p
56 THE IHORTHERN PABTIDOS.
suffered severely during the civil wars of 1853-61, and was sacked after
the battle of Pa von. About the same time it was besieged by Indians. The
church is a very handsome edifice, and there are also state schools,
barracks, several shops and brick kilns, and 103 rateable houses : of these
last the best are those of Zamora, Nogueras, Begu6, Martinez, Olmos, Otero,
Gorordo, Alcaraz, Aguirre, Cuets, Cardoso, Celhay, Gobian, Duarte, Lopez,
Echagu6, Fernandez, Grigera, Morales, Beinandi, Rodriguez, Saenz, UUoa,
and Vasquez, all valued over ^0,000. The Irish residents of this partido
are visited by Rev. J. Leahy of San Pedro. Mr. R. Jacobs has a barraca here,
in connection with the firm of *Pacharppe & Co., of San Nicolas and Buenos
Ayres, and the stranger can nowhere find better advice or assistance than
from this gentleman, who has spent twenty years in the country, and is
noted for his enterprise and high character. The state schools are attended
by 83 boys and 6 1 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Mauri cio Chavarria ; Curate^
Bev. Jos6 Gimenez ; Postmaster, Don Manuel Vasquez ; Standard agent, Mr-
R. Jacobs ; Munixsipality, four members. Municipal revenue, $125,000.
Pergamino is 5 leagues south of the Arroyo del Medio, 17 N.E. of Fort
Chafiar, 7 north of Rojas, 10 N.N.W. of Salto, and 9 N.W. of Arrecifes.
Bojas,
^ Situate 43 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres has an area of 182 square
leagues, most of which is still public land. This partido was a few years^
ago a desert wild, unknown to sheep-farmers except as an out-of-the-way
place often over-run by Indians, and latterly fixed on as a military
head-quarters.
The partido is bounded on the N. by Pergamino, on the W. by Indian
territory, on the S. by Junin and Chacabuco, and on the E. by Salto and
Arrecifes. It is watered by the Rojas river and the Arroyo Dulce, and
nearly half the ]>artido is beyond the line of frontier, which runs from Fort
Mercedes almost due S. to the town of Junin. Fort Mercedes is close to
a lagoon in the Canada de Rojas, about 8 leagues S.E.'of Fort Melincu6 ;
the frontier passes Tapera de los Cueros, traversing the estaucias of
Llavallol and Peralta Ramos ; then crosses Arroyo Pelado, near which is a
Fort of the same name ; it next traverses the Canada la Piedro and Arroyo
de Nutrias, and finally reaches the public lands and township o^ Junin..
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROJAS.
57
The largest estancias are —
Name.
Llavallol,
Ganobros.,
Quirno bros., .
Peralta Ramos,
M. Gasal,
Sanabria,
John Murphy, .
M. Martinez, .
Gen. Gonesa, .
Grigera,
Guiraldes,
Sierra,
S. Leagues.
10
Name.
Saavedra.
7
AlbariAo,
6
6
M. Hardoy,
Riestra,
3
John Huss,
2
Sarl6,
1
H
4
Gespedes, ' . . ,
Martinez, family,
Ulloa.
2
Garrascobros.,
2
James Bollasty,
2
Sagasta,
S. Leagues.
... 2
... 2
... t
... 1
• • • «5
... s
... 4
.... 2
.... IJ
.... li
.... 4
There are several smaller, belonging to English settlej's, of which we
have returns of their valuation (but not their extent) as follows —
Name.
James Bollasty,
David Anderson,
Tormey^s heirs,
Patrick Moffatt,
Peter Carey,
Peter Lawler, '
John Moffatt,
Thomas Geoghegan,
Thomas Quinnan, . .
Value. Name. Value.
$460,000 Thomas Mullady, .... $25,000
45,000 Patrick Tobin, 15,000
50,000 Peter Gerraty, 15,000
50,000 Henry Geddes, 15,000
40,000 Wfai. Dowse, 15,000
40,000 Peter Murray, 15,000
30,000 John Tobin,
35,000 I N. M'Neill,
30,000 Pat. Murphy and W. Boggins,
The settlers outside the frontier, having lots of about 3 square leagues,
are as follow — Garlos Louton, Ricardo Lezica, Garlos Alsina, Mariana
Irigoyen, Benito Blanco, Edward Madero & Go., M. ?Iuaez.
The first English settlers foupd thoir way to Rojas within the last ten
years, and notwithstanding its proximity to the Indian frontier the partida
is coming into much favor with sheep-farmers on account of its superior
camps : its present English population is about 300. Mr. James Bollasty
has a very fine establishment, close to the town, comprising both pasturage
and agriculture ; his stock of sheep is over 30,000, and his chacra covers a
great extent of ground in which he has sown sixty fanegasof wheat; he
has also a wgraseriaw with two boilers, for rendering down sheep. Mr.
Bollasty is a fine specimen of our countrymen, and so much appreciated by
his Argentine neighbors that they have elected him to the municipal board,^
where his genius for progress and improvement are still equally visible.
S8 THE HOBTH AND WEST FROriTIERS.
Mr. John Hughes has purchased and stocked an estancia, with 20,000 sheep
and 1,500 cows; he has also a small ((graseria» for boiling down sheep.
Blr. Edward Macken has about 8,000 sheep on his land, Mr. Geoghegan
about 7 .000, and the heirs of Mr. Darby Tormey have also a considerable
stock. The other Irish farmers are no less prosperous ; these brave fellows
are doing more to advance the cause of industry and civilization in this
remote corner of the Pampas, than all the legislators and Governments of
Buenos Ayres since the Independence. There are also some enterprising
Scotchmen, and Mr. Geddes, besides sheep-farming, occupies himself in
buying wool for the Buenos Ayres market and sending in sheep to the
<(graserias)) at San Nicolas. Some of the native estancias are very
important : that of Dorrago, which is partly in this partido and partly in
Salto, is stocked with over 100,000 sheep, 60,000 horned cattle, and 4,000
horses The estancia of the late Don Juan Cano has been divided between
his sons Mareiano and Roberto : the former resides at El Carmen, as the
estancia house is called, and has a stock of 45,000 sheep, 48,000 cows, and
600 mares and tame horses ; the Mayordomo of the horned cattle has a
distinct residence called Buena Vista, and that of the mayordomo of sheep
is at Encrucijada, about a mile from El Carmen. Mr. Geddes hcidcharge of
this establishment for ten years. At the Carmen there is a comfortable
residence; also a shed 50 yards by 12, with two lofts, one of which is .
capable of containing 8,000 arrobas of wool, and on the ground floor there
are stables for the Negretti flock during the lambing season and the colds .
of winter. The house is sheltered by 20 acres of plantation, including
paradise, peach, black and white acacia, and quince trees. There are 30
acres of Alfalfa or trefoil, 80 acres of wheat, and 18 of Indian corn; the
whole fenced in with wire, covering 3(5 cuadras, and having four avenues
leading to the house, corrals and out-oQices: the place is close to the
high-road, and the coaches change horses here. Don Roberto Cano has a
line estancia-house at San Jos6, and his stock comprises 12,000 cows, 25,000
sheep, and 250 horses: he lias about 70 acres under tillage, and is fencing
in as much more for the same purpose : the owner is, like all his
countrymen, very hospitable to visitors. St. Gertrude's, or the Llavallol
estancia, lies between forts Mercedes and Pelado, and is watered by the
Cafiada Rojas and Arroyo Pelado. Santa Cecilia, the property of Messrs.
Quirno, lies about 3 leagues W. of Rojas, and adjoining the town is Mr.
John Murphy's estancia of La Caldera. That of Peralta Ramos, called San
Jacinto, has the lagoons of Cabeza del Tigre and La Estrella, and is near
Fort Pelado. The lands of Casal, Cespedes and Sarld are adjacent to Fort
Mercedes: those of Sanabria, Martinez, Albariflo, Sieijra, Ulloa)- and j
Digitized by virOOQlC
" ROJAS. * 59
Carrasco are on the N.E. baak of the Rojas river. General Conesa and
Sefior Grigera are on the Arroyo Saladas, near the Pescado lagoon. Huss,
Saavedra and Guiraldes are S. of Rojas, near an arrojo styled Saladillo de
la Vuelta. Of the outside settlers the furthermost are — Madero, Irigoyen,
and Alsina, near a lagoon called ChaQaritos, which is only 5 leagues from
Tort Melincue.
The stock-returns of the partido are— 89,129 cows, 7,686 horses, 2,850
fine sheep, 312,673 mestiza sheep, 25,965 Creole sheep, and 4,973 pigs,
being an average of 500 cows, 42 horses, and 2,000 sheep per square
league. Land is variously valued at two, three, or four hundred thousand
dollars. Total valuation 12,000,000, against 4,000,000 in 1862. Contri-
bucion tax $48,000. Population returns — 2,17 1 Argentines, 1 12 English,
112 Italians, 132 French, 48 Spaniards, 11 Germans, 29 various; total
2,615. There are 167 houses and 444 ranchos: 6 Alcaldes, 13 Tenientes,
12 policemen, and 321 National Guards. The scarcity, of horses in this
partido is owing to the frequent incursions of the Indians. Persons
looking for land can either purchase or rent same from Government, or
buy the right of cfenfiteusis)> from previous settlers.
The town of Rojas is small but well-built, with a population of 1 ,700
souls, and is usually garrisoned by a force of 250 cavalry : it has a church,
state-schools, several good shops, and 82 rateable houses : of these last the
best are those belonging to — Escobar, Peralta, Gen. Emllio Mitre, Gen.
Conesa, Elordi, Fretes, Perez, Ojeda, Quirno, Rospide, Roquez, Rocca^
Morgando Medina, Barreiro, Biquiristain, Diaz, Herrera, Frias, all valued
from $50,000 upwards. The town has much improved under the Municipal
boards of the last couple of years, and Mr. Bollasty has actively furthered
all improvements. The plaza is neatly laid out, with walks and scats, and
a monument is being erected in the centre, at an expense of $25,000, to
the patron-saint of the town, San Francisco. The public school and garden
have been greatly improved thanks to Mr. Bollasty's liberality, and this
gentleman is also a leading supporter of the Irish Library and Institute :
the library receives seven European journals fortnightly, and counts forty
members; attached to the reading-room is a yard 40 varas square, where
the Irishmen put up their horses when they come in to Mass on Sunday
mornings ; the club meets for lectures, &c. once a month, patron Rev.
Largo M. Leahy. It is impossible to exaggerate the benefit of these Irish
libraries: the returns shew that each member reads on an average 194
books in a year, whereas only seven years ago a book was quite a rarity in
a shepherd's house, except among wealthy estancieros. The Irish racing
society has meetings near Rojas at stated periods. The state-schools are
60 THE NORTH IKD WEST FRONTIERS.
attended by 50 boys and 41 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Francisco Boca;
Curate, Rev. Visconti ; Post-master, Don Isidro Navarro ; Standard agent,
Mr. BoUasty. Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, $146,000.
Bojas is 10 leagues S.E. of Fort Mercedes, 9 N.N.E. of Junin. 10 N.N.W
of Chacabuco,9 W.N.W. of Salto, and 11 W.S.W. of Arrecifes.
Junin,
Situate 45 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is another newly-settled
territory, comprising 80 square leagues, a good deal of which is Govern-
ment land.
The partido is bounded on the north by Bojas, on the west by Indian
territory and the new partido of Lincoln, on the south by Bragado, and on
the east by Chacabuco. It has an abundance of water, viz. : Lake Chattar,
Mar Chifluita, and the Gomez lagoons, besides the Bio Salddo, which
traverses a great portion of the country in a S.E. direction. A slight range
of hills runs S.S.E. from Fort Chaflar towards Bragado, Most of the partido
is outside the frontier and much exposed to the Indians : there is a fort at
Lake Chaftar, five leagues outside of Fort Peladb, and another (Fort Morote)
between Mar Chiquita and the Gomez lagoons, two leagues N.W. of the
town of Junin. The estancias of Mr. Atkins, Seilora Hernandez, and Don
E. Pay an are close to the town. Those of Toledo and Lastra are south of
the Salado, near the lagoons of El Carpincho and Los Patos. That of
AmSzaga is a large property near Lpgunas de Gomez, with an old fort called
Canton Potroso, and the lagunas of Nutria and Sierra. The lands of Burke
Lopez, and Sosa adjoin the new partido of Lincoln ; as also those of General
E. Mitre, Fajardo, and Ydoyaga, which are south of Mar Chiquita. Mr-
Michael Murray's estancia iz washed on one side by the Sauce, and on
another by the Arroyo la Vuelta. The Saavedras are north of the Salado,
and here there is a tract of public land fifteen square leagues in extent.
Pombo and Paseyros are situate on the Arroyo las Nutrias ; and in the midst
of the Indian country we find Alvear, Nasarre, Argerich, Soler, Caudevilla^
Lecuna, Valle, Franqui, Scheiner, Sala, Aramburii, Lezic0, and Irigoyen.
Fort Chafiar is on Alvear 's ground, and this is fifty-six leagues (as the bird
flies) W.N.W. of the city of Buenos Ayres, being thirteen leagues west of
Bojas. Mar Chiquita is one of the largest lakes in the province, being^
three leagues long by one and a-half in width The Lagunas de Gomez are
an irregular series of lakes, seven leagues in length by a mile^^r so ia
breadth : the Bio Salado flows hence in an easterly direction.^^ by v^OOgle
JUHIK.
Ul
The chief estancias are those of —
G. Pombo,
- J. J. Perez,
L. Saavedra & Bros.,
J. Garcia,
Lucas Castro,
M. Delfrade,
General E. Mitre,
B. Martinez,
Frank Bowling,
D. Maza,
Michael Murray,
J. Romero,
T. Escobedo,
M. Arza,
E. Medina,
P. Henestrosa,
J. M. Olivera,
G. Scheiner, '
Fajardo,
Aramburu,
P. Giles,
E. Lezica,
Araezaga,
B. Irigoyen,
J. Gomez,
Paseyros,
Bev. B. Paz,
George Atkins,
F. VillafaQe,
Burke,
W. ViUafaue,
Valle,
A. Lastra,
Sala,
P. Arza,
Argerich,
F. Gonsalez,
Caude villa.
R. Vasquez,
Soler,
J. Moreno,
Sefiora Castro,
, J. Godoy,
Lopez,
M. Flugerto,
Nasarre,
Rocha Olivera,
Lecuna,
Alegre Brothers,
Martel,
Linera,
Perez,
Diego Alvear,
Pay an.
J. Sierra,
Garay,
J. Aguilera,
Cabral,
B. Ferreyra,
Ydoyaga,
F. Yilches,
Abella,
M. J ago,
Aparicio,
A. Boca,
Toledo,
Romero & Co.,
Sosa,
Balmaseda,
Gomez,
Franqui &Go.,
These lands were first tried for sheepfarming during the drought of
1863, when many Irishmen drove their flocks hither to save them firom
dying in the over-stocked partidos near Buenos Ayres. Som/rx)^^^?^,
. Digitized by Vj^^^VU
62
THE NORTH AND WEST FRONTIERS.
remained here permanently, but the population is still very thin, and our
countrymen do not exceed 100 in number. The returns of stock are —
43,016 cows, 5,785 horses, 58,685 mestiza sheep, and 2,6H pigs, being an
average of 500 cows, 70 horses, and 700 sheep per square league. A
portion of this partido has been recently taken off, in the formation of the
new partido of Lincoln.
Agriculture seems to be making much progress : there are eighty-one
chacras, covering about 20,000 acres: the following are the principal : —
Namo.
Value.
Name.
Value.
Aparicio,
... $165,000
Liborio Pio,
... $15,000
Narbondo,
65,000
C. Giles,
15,000
Reparas,
65,000
Suar's heirs.
15,0t0O
Deagustini,
32,000
V. Uviedo,
12,000
Montenegro,
20,000
B. Chaves,
10,000
Paniza,
20,000
E. Suarez,
12,009
Munoz,
20,000
M. CucUo,
12,000
M. Lopez,
18,000
M.MaruU,
12,000
P. Segui,
15,000
* E. Espinosa,
10,000
The total valuation of the partido is $3,030,000, against $500,000 ia
1862 Contribucion ta^, $12,000. Population returns — 1,1 11 Argentines,
89 Indians, ii Spaniards, 35 Italians, 17 French, 9 English, 1 German,
20 varioui — total l,32'i. There are 37 houses and 3iO ranchos, including^
21 shops ; 4 alcaldes, 8 tenieutes, 12 policemen, and 130 National Guards.
The village of Junin is little more than a military post, garrisoned by 26
soldiers of the Line : it has 836 inhabitants, a public school, and 33 rateable
houses, of which the best are those of Degiovanni, Abella, Ledesma, Boy
& Co , Rodriguez, Barace, Abaca, Zans, Larrailaga, Calp & Pferrer, Frias;
Amadeo, and Fraga, valued from $20,000 upwards. The place derives its
name from a victory over the Spaniards, in Peru, during the War of
Independence. The state school is attended by 50 boys and 40 girls.
Justiceof Peace, Don Estainslao Alegre, who is also postmaster. Munici-
pality, four members. Municipal revenue, $157,000.
Junin is 13 leagues S.E. of Fort ChaQar, 9 S.S.W. of Bojas, 14 S.W. of
Salto, 10 west of Chacabuco, 18 N.W. of Chivllcoy, and 9 north of Fort
Ituzaingo.
Lincoln.
Situate about 60 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is entirely outside
the frontier. The partido iS of such recent formation that we have very
LINCOLN. 63
scanty iaforraatlon about it. On the occasion of President Lincoln's
assassination the Legislature of Buenos Ay res resolved to pay a tribute to
his memory by giving his name to the next partido that should be formed.
As yet th<5re is no administrative organization of Justice of Peace,
Municipality, &c. ; neither is there any centre of population, although the
site of the intended town has been decreed.
The partido is bounded on the N. and W. by Indian territory, on the S.
by the I^ueve de Julio, and on the E. by Bragaeo and Junin. There are no
arroyos worth notice, but an abundance of lagoons. In the extreme north
is the Villareal estancia, of 6 square leagues, near the Medanos de Acha
and Las Balas. Mr. Wiebeck is settled in the Canada Orqueta, Mr. Thomas
Gowland at Laguna del Renegado, and Mr. Chapeaurouge at Laguna de
Corridos. Messrs. BuUrich, Cordoba, Freers, Dunkler and Schroeder
extend about 10 leagues S.W. from a place called Siete Jagtteles to the
lagoon of Tigre Muerto. Don Manuel Bodriguez has an estancia at the
Barcala lagoon, Don Luis Amadco at In^sita, Blessrs. Gorchs and Iturrios
near the Laguna de los Amigos, and Del Sar, Vivot, Martinez near the
Laguna del Guacho. The furthest settler westward is Don Antonio Pereyra,
who has 6 square leagues of camp near the Laguuas Bastrillada, Libres^
Carmen, Lagarto and Perillan : this chain of lakes is 65 leagues due W. of
Buenos Ayres city, and forms the last landmark of civilization in the far
west pampas. In the immediate neighbourhood we also find William
Martins, F. Saavedra, and J. Giraenez, near the Medano de Uyito, The
new town of Lincoln will be built about 10 leagues outside Fort Ituzaing6,
from which the frontier runs almost due ?!. to Juniu, passing the Medanos
del Hornito and El Moro, and traversing the camps of Castro, Auiezacaand
Atkins. Besides the estancias already enumerated in this partido, must be
mentioned those of Michael Murray. George W. Atkins, F. Dowling, P.
JBeristayri, P. Reparas, L. Monsalvo, Montes-de-Oca, Fajardo, and Gueri.
We have no returns of stock or population.
Chacabiico.
The partido of Chacabuco contains about 88 square leagues of land,
divided into ten cuarteles, with an Alcalde and Tenientes to each. There
are 5J leagues of land at the present time divided into quintas and chacras,
which at the close of the Paraguayan war are to be distributed amongst the
soldierd who have served in the campaign. Digitized by ^
64 THE JSORTH AND WEST FROKTIERS.
The town of Chacabuco consists of 18 manzunas, all built of brick, with
azotea or tile roofs, and 10 quintas, with young, though flourishing montes-
The greater part of the inhabitants are Basques and Italians, but further
progress in the town has been much retarded owing to Government not
permitting the municipality to dispose of these lands. As yet the town
boasts of no public buildings. The lands of this partido are of a rich deep
soil, and have for the last few years been eagerly sought after by
Englishmen. About one-half are refined lands well adapted for, and
largely occupied, in sheep-breeding ; a good part is also occupied in cattle,
and tillage is carried out to a large extent. The chief native estancias are,
the Medano Blanco, belonging to Don Patricio Roche, which comprises four
square leagues of land, with fine estancia-house, quintas, immense alfalfares,
and galpons for sheep; also a graseria. The number of* sheep on these
lands amounts to from 45,000 to 50,000, with about 5,000 head of horned
cattle. This may be considered the chief estancia in the partido. The
estancias of Sres. Pacheco, Vidal, and Alvcar also occupy a prominent
position. Among the English estancias the chief is that of Mr. E. B.
Perkins, Estancia la Esperanza, comprising 2^ square leagues of land, a
good estancia-house with adjoining offices together .with fine quintas,
alfalfares and potreros for cattle. The land, which is surrounded by
21 finepuestos, is occupied by about 15,000 sheep, and from 3,000 to 4,000
head of horned cattle. The sowing of wheat and maize is largely carried
on, as is tillage of all kinds. Several fine young plantations are commencing
also to show themselves, which in a few years will be of great value. The
other chief estancias are those of Messrs. Duggan, E. Casey, M. Allen, M.
Murray, F. Pierson, F. Dowling, J. Drysdale, J. Maclean, Forest, Sema,
Castro, Mir8,Vasquez,Crisol, Insiarte, Saubidet, Maldonado, Blanco, James
Bell, Gonsalez; Quirno and JIachado. The Estancia de la CreoUa, also in
this partido, has been lately purchased front a native company by J. H. Green,
and consists of 5^ leagues of land with estancia-house, offices, &c. This
is the largest English property in tlie partido, but is as yet unstocked owing
to its having changed hands so recently. Agriculture is now carried on in
this partido on a much larger scale than in most other parts of the
province, mostly by the natives, and the crops promise to be very successful
this year ; many large fortunes have been made in this branch during the
last few years, and we are surprised that our conntryraen do not introduce
more capital into this business. The Irish population may be set down at
500. Land averages from $300,000 to $600,000, according to quality.
The Government price is $200,000 per league. Average price of sheep
from $15 to $20 ; cattle from $50 to $80 j mares from $45 to $60. JOQle
GHAGilBUCO. 65
Chacabuco is distant S6 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, . and, the partido
being of recent formation, the returns of property, &c. are not suflBciently
minute, for >vhich reason most of the estancias will be included in our
reports of the neighbouring districts, from which this partido has been
formed. The partido is watered by the San Patricio, Peludos and Mingorena
arroyos, which traverse the estancias of Dowling, Forest and Pearson,
before falling into the Salado ; the Arroyo Juncal, which bisects the Pacheco
estancia ; and a number of lagoons. The Laguna Artigas is on the Alvear
estancia, Las Toscas and £1 Gato on that of Machado, Medano Blanco and
Medano Chato on Mr. Rocha's, Siete Lagunas on Sor. Castro's, and several
others are of lesser note. There are 56 estancias, ^ith an average of a
league and a half each. The returns of stock are — 102,079 cows, 26,286
horses, 1 ,380 fine sheep, 554,700 mestiza sheep, 1 1 ,600 Creole sheep, and
1,750 pigs, being an average of 1,300 cows, 300 horses, and 7,000 sheep
per squar-e league. The amount of land under tillage and grain-crops^ is
returned as 14 square leagues, or nearly .90,000 apre^ The populieition
counts 5,615 Argentines, 166 English, 83 Itali^ns^ 81 French, 54 Spaniards,
44 varicjus; total 6,063, There are 16 houses and 74| ranchos, including
48 shops and stores, justicje of Peace, Dppi Jos6 Mavia Rodriguez j Post-
master, Don Eulallo Sempoil. Strangers will findreliab^ information from
Mr. Perkins ; this gentlemauicameout with his brptbqr^^ and a good capital,
from England, a few years ago, and was one of the fipst settlers in this
remote district. The railway from Chivilcpy to Buenos Ayres now places
Chacabuco within a day's journey of town. On the estancia of Mr. Micbiael
Allen, in this partido, an Irish chapel has been built, dedicated to St. MeL
and attached to the same is a Library, which was opeaed on the 5th of May
1868, with a list of thirty subscribers, who receive regular supplies of
books from Dublin and New York, and seven European journals by each
mcul. It is proposed to start a Debating Soci^y, under the patronage of
the Bev. L. M. Leahy^ to whom the Irishmen of these parts ate so
much indebted.
The new town of Chacabuco will be situate 10 leagues N.W of Chivilcoy,
6 N.E. of Bio Salado, 10 E. of J^uin, lOS-S.E. of Rojas, 7 S.S.W. of Salto,
and 1 1 S.W. of Carmen de Areco.
S^ragado.
Situate 39 leagues west of Buenos Ayres, comprises 100 square leagues,
the largest estancias being those of Francisco Pla's heirs, 6 square leagues,
EE ^ O
66 THE IfORTH A1«D WEST FROITriERS.
and Mariano Biaus, 5} leagues. The (
^therestancias belor
persons : —
Quiroga,
Robbio,
Gallo,
Ramirez,
P. Arza,
Emilio Castro,
S. Meabe,
Machain,
S. Unzu6,
Olivera,
M. Beccar,
Martinez,
Lanuz,
Ferreyra,
Lavado,
Trejo,
Lucena^
Perez,
Ruiz,
Moutier,
P. Castro,
A. Smyth,
The partido id bounded on the north and east by the Rio Salado, which
separates it from Chacabuco and Chivilcoy, on the south by 25 de Mayo, and
on the west by 9 de Julio. The Biaus estancia is on the southern b&nk of
the Salado, and east of the town of Bragado : it has several lagoons, viz. :
Bragado Grande, Casco, Colorada, Los. Patos, and Palantelen. The estates
of Don Saturnino Unzu6 also cover a great tract of country in this and the
next partido (25 de Mayo). Meabe and Moutier are southward from
Bragado, near the lagoons of Olivencia, El^ Toro, and Las Caflas. The
Quiroga estancias are six leagues long by three wide, extending. ftt>m Fort
Angeles along the frontier to Fort Ranch. Further north are the estancias
of Bragado Chlco, Mataco, and Santa Isabel, belonging respectively to
Messrs. Lanuz, Lavado, and Ruiz, all washed by the Salado. There are
public lands at Medano de la Cruz and Averias. The lands of Lucena,
Ramirez, and Emilio Castro are traversed by the frontier line, and on Ufr.
Castro's estancia is Fort Ituzaingo, ten leagues south of Junit^. The lands
of Robbio and Pedro Castro are outside the frontier, near Cafiada de Moron^
This partido has made but little progress, owing to the fi^equent Indian
incursions. The lands are, therefore, little sought after by sheepfarmers,
who complain also that there are no Hvers or arroyos, and that the tend is
ill adapted for sheep. Nevertheless, an Englishman who has visited this
part writes: — «I have great pleasure in stating that I found the lands in
the partidos of 25 de Mayo and Bragado are better than people here
generally suppose them to be, the grass being in many places two and even
three feet high ; the quality is good, but better suited for cattle than sheep.
The ((trevol de olor,» or natural alfalfa, is most beautiful, covering in some
places leagues of land, and if cut at the present moment would [froduce
sufficient alfalfa to supply the trholc of Buenos Ayres for a
, '^^ "^ ** Digitized
B1L\GAD0. 67
sheep have been placed on the land, even for a few months, its quality
beeones much better, and I have no hesitation in saying that there are few
finer or better lands for sheep in this province than those of the 25 de Mayo
and Bragado. In some parts of the camp there is a large quantity of the
wild aloe growing, but this will soon disappear when the land is stocked.
A large portio i of tlie lands in these two partidos is owned by Englishmen,
and fine azotea houses, puestos, &c., are springing up on all sides. Should
the Government resolve to reduce the price of these lands to a moderate
and fair sum, I have no doubt they would be purchased af once by the
present occupiers of the land. In riding over the land I was much struck
with tlie absence of arroyos, cafiadas, or lagunas of any size, and believe
that for many leagues the same peculiarity may be noticed ; the reason of
this is, that the soil being a rich sandy vegetable mould, absorbs all the
water that falls, little if any running off the land, even in tha heaviest
rains ; the sab-soil is sand, and in some spots the water is close to the
surface, indeed, at one' place I visited (the Hinojo) a man simply stooped
down to get us a glass of water from his well, the water not being more
than three feet below the surface ; in other spots the wells were three to
five yards deep.»
The English population of this partido does not number 100, but there is
every likelihood that it will increase rapidly as soon as the railway be open
to Bragado ; the works are being actively pushed forward, and this will
also much enhance the value of the land. Tlie official valuation is set down
at $200,000 per square league. Total valuation of the partido $6,000,000,
against $3,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $24,000. The returns of
stock are— 135,000 cows, 2i,596 horses, 246,000 mestiza sheep, 1,000
Creole sheep, and 8,000 pigs, being an average of 1,300 cows, 250 horses,
and 2,500 sheep per square league.
Agriculture has, within a few years, made rapid strides in these far
western camps. There are 370 chacras under tillage, covering an area of
60,000 acres. Hitherto the only check to this industry was the expense
and difficulty of freight to Buenos Ayres, but now the prolongation of the
Western Railway as far as Bragado will give a great impulse to the growing
of grain. Moreover, the Indians, who seek only for booty of horned cattle
and horses, will no longer be felt in these districts, for they always recede
at the advance of the ploughshare and the locomotive. The population
returns are— 3,604 Argentines, 180 Spaniards, 144 French, 183 Indians,
62 Italians, 6 English, 35 various— total 4,222. Coliqueo's tribe of ,
tffriendly Indians» is settled here as a protection to the frontier; the^^C
cacique is a large muscular man^ about 50 years of age, not bai looking, and
EE2
€8 THE NORTH A5D WEST FRONTIERS.
>vears the uniform of a major in the Argentiue army ; his people are squalid
and repulsive, with no other trace of Christianity than that they gtneraily
cause their children to be baptized. They live in their «tolderias,» groups
of wretched huts, which they shift at times for the pasture of their horses.
The Government gives them monthly rations of tobacco, yerba, and wild
mares ; thej are extremely fond of the flesh of the latter.
The village of Bragado, also called Santa Rosa, after the patroness of
South America, is picturesquely situated at the foot of a gentle slope, near
the lagoon of Salj^dillo, and not far from those of Bragado Grande and Cassio.
Its first importance was as a fort on .the Indian frontier, but it is destined to
become in a short time a great western settlement in the midst of the
Pampas, within 7 hours' journey by rail of the city of Buenos Ayres* It has
a church, state schools, 22 good shops, and 65 r^^teab'le houses ; of the latter
the best are those of Patricio Arza, O. Ramirez, B. Roque, Trejo, Sarrieta,
St. Paul, Osuna, J. Milberg, MiQaque, JIansilla, Michad, Lopez, Fernandez,
Basarte, an^ Argain^ all valued from $50,000 upwards.. The partido Ims
7 1 houses and 994 ranehos ; 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 1 i policemen^ and 9&0
National Guards. The state schools are attended by 62 boys and 65 gufls.
Justice of Peace, Don German Vega ; Curate, Rev. Luis Leoueti ; Postmaster;
Don Maximo Fosferes; Municipality, six members.
Bragado is 9^ leagues S.W. of Chivilooy, 4 W. of the Rio Salado, 9 J*.W.
of 25 de Mayo, 9 J N.E. of Nueve de Julio, 5 E. of Fort Rauch, and 14 S.E.
of Juain.
Nueve de Julio.
Situate 48 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres,isa new and thinly settled district
with an area of about 150 square leagues. Until recently the only
inhabitants were a tribe of friendly Indians and a regiment of soldiers to
garrison this part of the frontier. The present English population is
over 100.
The partido is bounded on the N. by Lincoln and Bragado, on the W. by
Indian territory, on the S. by the same, and on the E. by Veinte-y-Cinco de
Mayo. It has no rivers gr arroyos, but is interspersed with numerous
lagoons. Nearly half the settlers are English, but the camps are so exposed
to Indian forays that the partido makes comparatively slow progress. The
estanoias of Smith and Kavanagh lie between the Socabon and Pozo Pampa,
N.E. of the new town. Those of Douthat, Dillon, Darbyshire, and Nicld,
are on the frontier line, between Forts Picalo and Cruz de Guerra, on the
route from Veinte-y-Cinco d** "^layo to Nueve de Julio. The lands of Lynch,
HUEVE DB JULIO.
69
Lewis, Young, Daly, and Wallace, are on the extreme S.W., between
Gaftsda Verde and the lagoons of Saladillo and Union. Michael Murrajr is
near Laguna las Piedras, and the farthest western settlers are Veron,
Lopez, and Hanterola, near the Algarrobas lagoon. Carlisle and
Satvarezza are close to Fort Picazo, Messrs. Dankler, Wampach and Terry
are on lhe'N.W., adjoining the partido of Lincoln. The lands of Agrelo
BuUrich, Trejo, Lima, and Vedia are near the Tres Lagunas, on which the
«ew town is being built : this point is 48 leagues W.S.W. of the city of
Buenos Ayres. The chief estancieros are the following : —
Henry Smith,
A. Chammar,
John Smith,
Lima,
Francis Dowling,
Buireu,
James fiaynor,
Dunkler,
George Dickon,
Terry,
Walter Stephenson,
Veron,
Thomas Douthat,
Diaz,
Charles Darbyshire,
Ares,
Johti Dillon,
Salvarezza,
John Dick,
P. D. Lynch,
E. J. Stfepb^nson,
•Mrs. Young,
W. Batchelor,
John Lewis,
George Dixon,
Albarracin,
Foster,
Vedia,
Aug. Masoni,
Rubio,
Miguel Baschetti,
Bomero,
Jam^s Kavanagh,
Manterola,
C. Martinez,
Maya,
E. Agrelo,
Urbero,
J.Luna,
Fernandez,
Trejo,
Patrick Daly,
Shaw,
John Wallace,
Wampach,
Haedo,
Seng,
BuUrich,
Michael Murray,
Naon,
Cuculla,
Gazon,
Ocampos,
Gonsalez,
Carlisle,
Lopez,
Frederick Nield,
Cuenca,
J. Malbran,
Amadeo,-
M. Delfrade,
AgOte, ' Digitized by
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/O THE NORTH AlfD WEST FROflTIBRS.
The returns of stock are — 110,400cows, 34,641 horses, 7,500 fine sheep,
43,000 mestiza sheep, 8,300 creoIe sheep, and 10,400 pigs, being an
average of 700 cows, 200 horses, and 350 sheep per square league.
Agriculture is also making good progress in these virgin camps ; there
are 135 chacras, with 5,000 acres under tillage. The official returns of
population shew a preponderance of tame Indians, viz :— 1,908 Indians,
920 Argentines, 55 Italians, 80 Spaniards, 51 English, 33 French,
3 Germans, 3 various ; total 3,053. There are 46 houses and 734 ranchos,
including 23 shops: 4 alcaldes, 7 tenientes, 8 policemen, 194 soldiers of
the line, and 422 National Guards.
The new town of Nueve de Julio is in course of construction, but as yet
there is neither church nor state-school. The partido is called after the
Independence day (9th of July 18 IH). Justice of Peace, Den *^stevan
Trejo ; Post-master, Edelmiro Moura ; Municipality, six members ;
Municipal revenue, $46,000.
An Irish farmer who recently visited this part of the frontier reports as
follows : — «I was anxious to see the Indians and their country ^ and started
from Villa Luxan on the 5thinst. for the Toldos of Coliqueo. . The journey
took me eight days. I visited Goliqueo's tribe, and found them Jiving much
like the Gauchos : the men and women wear clothes, and the men speak
Spanish. On the 10th I visited the Cacique who shook hands with me
warmly and said that I was the first Irishman he had met. He asked me for
General Mitre and Governor Alsina, and complained bitterly that the
Government had not built a church and school for the squaws. There are
three pulperias in the «tolderia,» one belonging to Seaor Martinez of
Buenos Ayres, who treated me most hospitably. The Indians are mostly
engaged in agriculture, and have chacras of maize ; they have ^Iso large
herds of mares and cows. They seem very long-lived, for I met a woman
apparently over 100 years old. I stopped two days with them, and they
treated me very kindly ; the Cacique Coliqueo seems a very decent fellow.
The lands are very course, nothing but «paja,)) «pasto puna,)) and the hard
thistles; they are only fit for horned cattle, and will take a long time for
refining, before being fit for sheep. On my way out I saw several flocks,
sound and in good condition ; the usual run for a flock is a couple of leagues
every way. The camps abound in deer and partridges. The chief English
estancieros are Dowling andGaynor, who are most hospitable to strangers:
they have some stock on their lands. A batch of enterprising young
Englishmen would do well out here, and could easily get cattle to start
writh. Land is to be had on all sides for sale : from Bragado to the frontier
the price of land in aenfiteusis)) is from §30,000 to $40,000 per leag
^ Digitized by
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VEJUJTK-Y-CWCO DE MAYO. 71
Crossing the froatier-line you can get land for nothing, and of a better
quality.: there are several estancias as far as 15 leagues beyond the frontier.
The Nueve de Julio is a well-built town, with a fine view of the country for
about Ave leagjues around : the Justice of Peace is a most hospitable man,
and well liked by the settlers.))
Among the Englishmen recently established in this district are Mr.
Edward Gillyatof the Estancia Espartillares, and Mr. Patrick MacDonnell
of Estancia Loncagne.
Unzue Hermanos are the largest landed proprietors in the partido. The
camps are excellent for cattle, &c., and last season fat sheep were sold
at $30infe. there are «poblacioues)) 10 leagues outside the town erf 9 de Julio.
The town has improved rapidly, all the houses being azoteas. It has four
<(fondas,» any amount of Billiards, Church, Juzgado, &c. The land is
first-class for growing wheat, maize, &c., and the immense (ccafladones»
offer many advantages for the breeding and fettening of pigs ; a branch
of industry the most lucrative and least attended to. Camp that was bought
three or four years ago at $40,000 a league is now worth from $80,000 to
$100,<000 (enfiteusis right), clear proof that camp in the Nueve de Julio is
a lucrative investment, the Englishmen hold annual steeplechases and
races, and «tool their fils)) over some stiff fences, to the surprise of the
Gaucbos, in a style worthy of the old country.
The nevv town will bt situate 12 leagues W. of 25 de Mayo, 9 S.W. of
Bragado, and 9 S. of Fort Ituzaingo.
Veinte^y^Cinco de Mayo.
Situate 35 leagues W.S.W. of Buepos Ayres, has an area of 210 square
leagues. ' the partido is bounded on the N.* by the Rio Salado, which
separates it from Chivilcoy, on the W. by Bragado and Pfueve de Julio, and *
on the S/and E. by Saladillo. It comprise^ 1 3*6' estancias.
This is'a rising partido^ much in favor with' sheep-farmers, the number
of Irish alone being nearly a thousand. A few years ago it was almost
looked upoii as Indian country. An Englishman, about 8 leagues beyond the
village of 25 de JIayo, writes : — «I settled here in 1864* and had only one
neighbor, now I havig 30 houses in sight, around me. I have built a
comfortable house, planted 1,000 trees, and fenced in a large chacra. In
the care of sheep I find mud walls answer best for corrals ; making them
four feet high they cost me $9 per yard, and afford great shelter to th^{g
72
THE KOHTH AHD WEST FROIITIERS.
sheep from the cold winds of winter. » There is plenty of public land in
this partido, and this part of the country is well suited for beginners, being
within a day's journey of town, via Mercedes. The land is valued at
$200,000 per league. Total valuation 13,000,000, against 5,000,000 in
1862. Contribucion tax, $52,000. The returns of stock are— 289,876
cows. 26,263 horses, 5,599 fine sheep, 922,622 mestiza sheep, 83,200
reole sheep, 12,610 pigs, being an average of 1400 cows, 130 horses, and
5,000 sheep per squareleague. The following are the principal estancias —
Name.
S. Leagtiefl.
Nam©.
8. Leagues*
S. Un2u6, ....
.... 18
Bna, ....
.... 2
Fernandez bros.,
.... 10
Olmos,
.... 1
Atucha, ....
.... 7
Chavarry,
.... 1
Blayer, •....
.... f}
EUiff bros.,
.... i
Peralta,
.... 5
Cabrera,
.... i
Sosa, ....
.... 5i
Arias,
. . • • .9
Olivera, ....
.... , U
Bodriguez,
.... i
Villarasa, ....
.... 5
Carrizo,
.... i
Tillanueva, ....
.... 0
Gasparron,
.... 1
B. Salas,
.... 5
Pereda,
.... 4
Saldariaga, ....
.... 2
Wright bros.,
.... 31-
Berraondo,
.... 2
George Keen,
.... 2i
Lugones,
.... 1
H.Keen,
.... 2
Haedo, ....
.... 1
B.Perez,
.... -21
Davel,
.... 1
George Dickson,
.... li
Casavalle, ....
.... T
F. Whelan,
.... 2
Carci,
. .*. . -J-
Quintan^,
.... ti
Ferreyra,
. . . • V
Zamudio,
.... 1
Piflero, ....
. • . • V
Leguisamon,
.... 2
Farias, ....
.... V
Cano,
I
Montero, ....
.... 5
Islas, ....
• . • •«
1
Mprillo,
.... 4
Bomero,
.... 1
Galindez, ....
.... O
Barrales,
.... 1
Gomez, ....
.... 3
Gonsalez,
.... I
Bisso, ....
.... o
Martinez,
.... i
Ghiraldo, ....
.... O
Gutierrez,
.... i
Baldeveinto, ....
.... 3
Monsalvo,
.... 1
A. Lezica, ....
.... 4
Saavedra,
.... i
E.Diaz, ....
.... 4
Cruz Casas,
.... i
Dominguez, ....
.... 2
Ybarra,
..... i.
Abrego,
.... 2
Digitized by CrrOOglC
VElTfTE-Y-CUICO DE MATO. 73
Messrs. Unzue have another exiensive property io this partido ; it lies N.
of the town of the 25 de Mayo, runniDg four leagues in a straight
line from Laguna del Tigre to the borders of the Bians estancia in Bragado :
they have also a large estancia near Arroyo Pantanoso, about eight leagues
south of the town. The Fernandfez estancia is outside the frontier,
between Monigotes and Lake Betel, a few leagues S.W. of Cruz de Guerra
fort. Messrs. Ghiraldo, Berraondo, Abrego, Attucha and Cano are just
inside the fort. Lezica's estancia at Lake Galvan, and that of Diaz at Las
Encadenadas, are about four leagues N.W. of the town. Estancia Potrillo,
near a Lagoon of the same name, is the property of Don Domingo Olivera,
and between this and the town we meet the estancias of Galindez and
Saldarriaga. The lands of Villaraea and Blayer lie S.W. of Olivera's, and
further out still are those of Plaza Montero andSalas, nearFort Vallimanca,
on a lagoon of the same name: this fort is 47 leagues S.W. of Buenos
Ayres city, and 12 leagues S.S.E. of the new town Nueve de Julio: the
only intermediate fort is Cruz' de Guerra. Some of the most valuable
estancias of the partido are those on the S. bank of the Salado, viz. —
Peralta, G. Keen, Dickson, H. Keen, Cabrera, Villanueva, Ybarrd, and
Gasparron. The stranger will find excellent shooting and the kindest
hospitality at Mr. Keen's estancia of Pedernales. Mr. Keen, is an old
resident, and was the first to settle so far out. Up to 1810 the Salado was
regarded as the Indian frontier, but in that year the first native estancieros
crossed the river : at that time the total population of the province of
Buenos Ayres (not includmg the city) was only 40,000. There were,
however, few who ventured beyond the Salado till the famous Colonel
Bauch (a German) made his great ^campaign against the Indians in 1822,
when the savages were driven far into the desert. The camps of Messrs.
Mathew and Anthony EUiff^ and Wright bros., are further S., between
Hedano de los Huesos andLagunas^de Gomez. Pereda's and Bisso's lands
are near the Cerrilia de la Mongoli, and Morillo and Go^iez are a few
leagues N.E. of the town, near Laguna del Milagro and sundry
smaller lakes.
Agriculture has attained a great development, there being no fewer than
512 chacras, covering an area of 180,000 acres of tilled land: this is an
average of 350 acres, or 80 cuadras to each chacra.
The population returns are— Argentines 5,090, Spaniards 2333, English
600, Italians 307, Indians 386, French 72, Germans 5, various 28: total
8,821. There are 68 houses and. 1,030 ranchos, including over 100 shops
and pulperias : 5 alcaldes, 20tenientes, 14 policemen, and 1700 National
Guards. As an instance of the rapid growth of this SfMil, it is to be
74 THE NORTH AHD WEST PROTiTIERS.
noted that in 1861 there were only 60,000 sheep^ and now there are over
a million. The Irish of this partido are visited by Father Leahy, from the
Fortin de Areco.
The village of 25 de Majo was, until very recently, only a military
outpost, but now it has 1,500 inhabitants, a church, schools, several shops,
and 68 rateable houses : of these last the best are tho^e of — Abrego,
Rivero, Senobia, Lalanne bros., Sanchez & Co., Bibolini, Ternandez,
Pedrasa, Islas, Ibarra, Basab6, Magdaleno, and Bernedo, all valued at
$50,000 and upwards. The state-schools are attended by 40 boys and 76
girls. Justice of Peace, Don Victorino Abrego ; Curate, Rev. Manuel R.
Soto; Post-master, Don Pedro A. Duval; Municipality, six members;
Municipal revenue, $360,000.
The town of 55 de Mayo, is 12 leagues E. of Nueve de Julio, 8 N.E. of
Fort Cruz de Guerra, 8J N,W. of Saladillo, 8 S.W. of the Rio Salado, and
9 S.E. of Bragado.
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THE WESTERN PAATIDOS. - 75
OHAP. YI.
THE WESTERN PARTIDOS,
FLORfiS TO GHIVILCOY.
San Josd de Flares.
Situate nearly two leagues west of Buenos Ayres, is a suburb of the city
aud has been fully described in Section B, pp. 88-90. The partido has only
six square leagues of land, entirely laid out in gardens, meadows, country
houses, &c. Its farming stock does not count 10,000 Tiead of sheep and
cattle. The partido is bounded on the north by Belgraho and San Martin,
on the west by Moron and Matanzas, on the south by the River Matanza, and
on the east by the city of Buenos Ayres. There are no rivers or lagoons,
but the soil is very rich and highly cultivated. The average value of land
is assessed at $4,000 per cuadra, equal to $6,400,000 per square league.
Total valuation $30,000,000, against $17,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion
tax, $120,000. TheFlores Road is being at present paVed, and there is
also a project for a tramway to town. The village boasts a handsome
church and state school, the latter attended by 91 boys and 126 girk:
there are some second-rate shops, and about 1,500 inhabitants. The
population of the partido comprises — 2,841 Argentines, l,6il Italians, 355 •
French, 330 Spaniards, 169 English, 40 Germans, 2 Indians, 87 various —
total 5,435. C^r\nin]i>
' Digitized by VrrOOg IC
76
THE WESTEKK PAHTIOOS.
The principal quintas, with their valuations, are —
Name.
Value.
Kame.
Value.
Jos6 Bergalo, .
. . . $560,000
M. Silva,
240,000
V. Zavala,
400,000
H. J. Ropes,
200,000
P. Alais,
300,000
Seflora Visillac, . .
200,000
Catalina N.,
200,000
Denolle,
190,000
V. Martinez,
200,000
T. Fresco,
120,000
S. Negrotto, .
220,000
H. Gowland, . .
136,000
B. Berber,
240,000
R. Gaete,
136,000
J. Coronel,
200,000
F. Gimenez,
120,000
SeQora Dorrego,
240,000
Villanueva,
■ 100,000
L. Martinez,
320,000
V. Silvera,
160,000
». Olivera,
268,000
G. Rodriguez, . .
160,000
A. Pereyra,
400,000
J. Plana,
184,000
M. Farias.
256,000
M. Pazos,
120,000
Charles Diehl, .
128,000
Mendi,
120,000
David Methven,
120,000
Larroude,
100,000
M. Casares,
120,000
Galindez,
100,000
A. Conde,
120,000
A. JuareK,
100,000
Unzu^,
120,000
P. Gamas,
.. 100,000
L. Segurola, . .
200,000
M. Giraldez, . .
120,000
J. Rivadavia, . .
.. , 120,000
Stegmann,
160,000
M. Qoirno,
160,000
Beulenez,
280,000
SeAora Portela,
101,000
M. Costa, • . .
200,000
Machin,
120,000
M. Flores,
180,000
Labrue,
120,000
A.Lezica,
180,000
F. M. Cruz,
100,000
Del Pont,
160,000
Lanuz,
144,000
Lacasa,
160,000
Seaura Hurtado,
120,000
Ponce,
160,000
C. Guedes,
120 000
F. Lezica,
120,000
Eraspume,
144,000
C. Murga,
120,000
R. Segurola, .
360,000
Vr. Martinez, . .
120,000
J. Terreros,
240,000
Soler's factory.
160,000
Lorenzo Torres,
240,000
Velez Sarsfield,
160,000
IS'avarro Viola, .
200,000
J. Silva,
160,000
M. Blorillo,
400,000
A. Terreros,
100,000
Seaora Garmondi
, 280,000
Echapon,
160,000
Benavente,
200,000
F. Visillac,
152,000
G. Diche,
240,000
P. Valle,
120,000
Perez Millan, .
200,000
Segurola,
.. ^ 144,00Q3Ogle
MATAIfZAS.
Kame.
Value.
Name.
Value.
C. Silvera,
240,000
N. Riestra, ....
80,000
M. Marqaez,
192,000
J. Castillo, ....
120,000
Edward Lumb, .
160,000
Geperal Conesa,
120,000
F. Blanco,
108,000
J. Casanova, ....
100,000
F. Gowlaod, .
108,000
M. Belgrano, ....
160,000
Isaguirre,
120,000
Mrs. Donovan, ....
50,000
S. Gousalez,
160,000
P. Rosenblad, ....
44,000
D. Gamas,
160,000
Ca villa,
144,000
Escacione,
144,000
Sefiora Bejarano,
144,000
N.Daso,
160,000
Amespil, .....
100,000
J. B, Cafion, . . ,
120,000
C. Darby shire, ......
64,000
J. Canton, . •
120,000
J.P.Boyd,
76,000
C. Blanco,
100,000
Nield, .....*
80,000
W. Daws,
52,000
M. Forrester, ......
John Hughes, . .
200,000
77
In Section B. we have inaccurately put down Mr. TerrcFo's qninta as
belonging to Doila Manuelita Rosas, his sister-in-law > the design of the
building was planned by her, and hence it took her name, altbovgdi it was
never her property. Justice of Peace, Don Bartolo Vivot ; Curate,. R^^-
Andres R. Otero ; Postmaster, Don G. Castro. Municipality, six mfembers.
Municipal revenue, $205,000.
San Jos6 de Flores is 1 league N. of the Matanzas river, l^S. of Belgrano,
and 2J E. of Moron.
Matanzas.
Situate four leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 31 square
leagues, of which 1 1 are devoted to agriculture, and 20 to sheep-farming.
It is bounded on the N. by Moron and Merlo, on the W.by LasHeras, on the
S. by Matanzas river, which separates it from the Lomas de Zamora and
Cafluelas, on the E. by Flores.
The Ezcurra estancia, commonly called del Pino, lies between the Arroyo
Morales and the river of Matanzas. Those of Barnachea and Rodriguez are
further south, on the Arroyo de los Pozos. Mr. Gahan^s estate s one of the
finest, having formerly belonged to the family of the Dictator Rosas ; the
house is surrounded by a large plantation, and distant about 3 leagues from
the village of Merlo. Mr. Gahan is one of our oldest and most prosperous
78
THE WESTERN PARTIDOS.
Irish residents, and bas another large estancia at Navarro. The estancias of
Villamayor and Zamudio are on the borders of Las Heras, and those of
Anchorena and Guerrero are N. of the Arroyo Morales. The estancia lands
are assessed at $960,000 per square league. The stock returns are —
9,861 cows, 2,773 horses, 1,200 fine sheep, 114,335 mestiza sheep, and
68 pigs; being an average of 600 cows, 150 horses, and 6700 sheep per
square league.
The principal estancias are —
Name.
8,
Leagues.
1 Name.
S. Leagnes
Ezcurra, .•..
3i
1 Carriso, family,
i
Aloiaraz, ....
3
' Bobledo,
i
B&rnechea, ....
24
Aguirre, ....
i
Merlo, fan^ily,
i
Alvarado
i
Anchorena f «...
1
Bodriguez, family,
i
J.B. Bamos.... .
*
Guerrero,
i
Villamayor, family,
2i
Posdorf,
*
Thomas Gahaa, . .
1
Paez, ....
i
M. Senaa, ....
f
Sosa, . . . . '
•i
Zamudio, family,
2
There (\pe 161 chacras,
coveri
ftg 70,000 acres of
tillag
e. The
principal are:—
Name.
Cnadras.
Name.
CuadnM.
E. Bamos Mejia,
560
^Mrs. stingier,
H7
D. Posse,
594
H. Schoo,. ...
103
Lino Lagos,
426
Tobar, family,
100
Laas' heirs,
506
Ezcurra, ....
150
J. Elias,
550
Villegas, family.
* 184
Sra. Achaval,
179
Bomero, ....
170
S. Gonsalez,
266
Mendez, ....
133
F. Madero,
580
F. Bravo, ....
85
F. Madariaga,
660
M. Ramos Mejia,
. .
The Bamos Mejia property is exceedingly valuable, and runs down to the
Hatanzas river : it was originally a grant from the King of Spain to Don
Juan de Garay, A.D. 1580, for a great victory gained by the latter over the
Indians on the banks of this river, which hence derives its name, wmatanzaw
(a great slaughter). The families of Bamos and Madero have magnificent
residences biiilt on their grounds. The valuation of the chacra lands
varies from $ 1 ,000 to $2,000t per cuadra. The district is admirably suited
for agriculture, being well watered, fertile, and within easy reach of the
city. One of the first foreign settlers in this neighborhood, about 40 years ^Ip
SAW MARTIN. 79
ago, was Mrs. Hannah Burns, who started a dairy-farm here ; on two or
three occasions her cattle were stolen from her during tlie civil wars, but
she as often rescued them, going in pursuit with a pair of pistols stuck in
her belt : she subsequently took an estanciaon the Indian frontier, fortifying
her house with a fosse and rampart on which she mounted two field-pieces ;
meantime her nephew managed the estancia near town. Tliis heroic
woman at last died from taking a drink of cold water on a hot day
in summer, about fifteen years ago, at her frontier fortress, aged
over sixty years.
The total valuation of the partido of Matanzas is 31,000,000, against
16,000,000 in 1861 . Coutribucion tax, $124,000. There are barely fifty
Irish in the district. The population returns are — 9i7 Argentines, 220
Italians, 38 Spaniards, 36 Germans, 30 French, 5 English, 37 others; total
1313. There are 225 houses and 338 ranchos, including 28 pulperias : four
alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 12 policemen.
The village of San Justo is the chief town of the partido ; it has a couple
of hundred inhabitants, a church, state-schools^ two dry-goods' stores, and
a few pulperias ; tfiere are only nineteen rateable houses, the best being
those of Cordero, Picaluga, Pelufro, Elizalde, and Besteche, valued from
$50,000 upwards. General Conesa has a very' handsome quinta, not far
from the San Martin station, which is the nearest op thq Western Bailway.
The state-schools are attended by 37 boys and 80 girls. Justice of Peace,
Don Hilario Schoe, who is also post-master ; Municipality, six members ;
Municipal revenue, $220,000.
San Martin.
Situate four leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is a purely agricultural
district, with an area of three and a-half square leagues. The partido is
bounded on the north by San Isidro, on the west by the River Las Conchas,
which separates it from Moreno, on the south by Moron and Flores, and on
the east by Belgrano. There are 93 chacias, comprising 20,000 acres
under tillage.
The land is valued at $1,600 per cuadra, or $2,500,000 per square
league. Total valuation $9,000,000: it did not form a distinct partido in
1862. The lands are very productive, and in a high state of cultivation.
Formerly there was a cabana for the purest Saxony and Bambouillet rams>
started by Seilor Vedia, but the establishment wa» sold oat in 1867oOqIc
80
THB WESTERS PARTIDOS.
The principal chacras are as follow :-
Name.
Cuadras.
Kame.
Cuad^aa
Maauel Lynch, ....
900
M. Funes
80
Leouardo Pereyra, ....
791
Blanco, ....
70
Jacob FiorinL, ....
320
Boniche
70
F. Igartua, ....
27 5 J
F. Luna, ....
90
Aguirre, ....
2i0
A. Salguero,
74
J.Dcspuy, ....
ICO
M. BIir6,
60
F. Ballester,
150
M. Sanchez,
60
A, Saatamaria,
liO
F. Hu6,
65
R. Kratzensteio, ....
120
M. Ballester,
110
The village of Saa Martin is a mere hamlet, situ<vte on the right of the
Western Eailway : it has a church, school, and forty-one rateable houses,
of which the best belong to. Juaa Bonifachini, S. Sicardi, J. Echepaure,
Lombardo, Camara, and Claurure, valued from $40,000 upwards. The
returns of stock are— 6,327 cows, 8iS2 horses, 75 fine sheep, 4,750 mestiza
sheep, (ind 136 pigs. There are 155 houses and 426 ranchos, includiog 3
shops and 2? putperias. The returns of population are — 1 ,844 Argentines,
504 Italians, 113 Spaniards, lOl French, 6 English, 1 Indian, 91 various —
total 2,666. There are 4 alcaldes, 16 tenieptes, and 9 policemen* Contri-
bucion tax, §36,000. Justice of Peace, Don Juan M. Campos; Curate,
Rev. Jose. Leoneti; .Postmaster, Don Eustaguio Marin. San Blartin will
increase in importance when Messrs. Rubio & Foley carry out ther projected
railway from Floresta to the Luxan river.
Moron,
The village of Moron is one of the most important stations on the Western
Railway, distant about fourteen miles west of the city of Buenos Ayres.
It is the head of the partido of the same name, which including the village
has about 4,000 souls ; more than two-thirds of these are foreigners.
The partido is bounded on the N.W. by the Rio Las Conchas, which
separates it from Moreno, on the W. by Merlo, on the S. by Matansas, and
on the £ by Flor^. The Rio Las Conchas and its tributary, the Cafiada de
Moron. are the only water-courses of the district.
Moron is a great resort for families passing the summer in the country,
being an hour's ride in the cars from the city, and is generally considered
healthy. Its ap{>earancQ is lively and important; and it is undoubtedly
MORON. 81
going a-hcad. Tlie plaza is one of the neatest of any town in the province :
it is well laid out with good walks and trees. The chapel is small, but
the Municipality have contracted for the erection of a splendid new church,
•with three naves, which when finished will cost over a million of dollars
currency, principally to come from public lands that are now being sold by
auction. The Juzgadoand free-schools are elegant and commodious public
buildings. The cemetery, a short distance to the south, is an honor to the
village : it is neat, well situated, and properly cared.
Many natives and foreigners have handsome residences in the village,
among the latter Messrs. Koch, Laplane, La Roche, Garcia, and others : at
short distances from the village there are some fine country seats, such as
those of Messrs. Coffin, Garbeler, Bepetto, Masias, Gavina, Keiman, &c.
On the road leading to the north from the village, a fine bridge has been
built by the Municipality over the Canada de Moron,and another by a private
company, is now finished, over the Rio de las Conchas, at Paso de Morales,
close to a valuable water mill belonging to Mr. Louis Langevin; these
facilities for traffic from the northern partidos were urgently required, and
will soon prove of great advantage to Moron.
This partido*was^ formerly large, hut has been greatly reduced of late to
form the partidos of Merlo, Las Heras, &c. Its area at present is about
4^ square leagues, entirely absorbed in chacras and quintas, cultivated
mostly by Italians and Basques, who prosper wonderfully and are daily
becoming owners of the land. The demand for good chacras is brisk, and
prices are advancing. Recent sales have been made of BaQados on the Rio
de las Conchas, some two or three leagues from the village, at from $1,000
to $2,320 per cuadra. High lands, according to circumstances, arc
worth $2,500 to $6,0()0 per cuadra. In the village building lotsare worth
from $500 to $1,500 per vara of frontage by 50 deep.
Before the formation of the new partidos of Las Heras and Merlo there
were some estancias included in the partido, viz. : —
Name.
Cascallares, ....
s.
....
Leagues
2
Name.
E. Cieza,
S. Leagues.
I
H. W. Smyth,
Calderon, ....
Gil Diaz, • • . • *
....
1
1
F. Correa, . . .
Arroyo^
Chaves.
i
i
*
There are not at present more than 6,000 sheep in this partido. Mr.
Keiman keeps a small flock of Segrctti ewes at his cliacra for breeding
rams; he is the only one now in Moron holding out in this business. The
Cabaftas Laspiur, the Sociedad ^*egrettis, the Rambouillet, and lastly the
Cabafia Perez Mendoza, hijo, are all done up of late years.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
82
THE WESTElUf PARTIDOS.
There are 194 chacras, of which the foUowing are the principal :—
Kame.
Value.
Name.
Value.
V. Bubio,
$550,000
T. B. CofBn, ....
100,000
Burgos, . . . •
442,000
B. Afarquez, ....
100,000
Castex, ....
300,000
V. Diaz,
100,000
Davovedo,
200,000
P. Arispe,
130,000
Matias R. Meji&,
200,000
J. Kock,
160,000
Ex. Bamos Mejia,
140,000
J. Garcia, ....
100,000
A. Manzanares,
100,000
L. Pellon, . . ; .
200,000
J. Elias,
120,000
F. Rodriguez, ....
150,000
John Brack, ....
200,000
P. Rusio
1 50,000
Sra. Alarcon, ....
115,000
F. Small,
110,000
Sra. Payrredon,
600,000
Mrs. Stegiuan,'....
150,000
F. Madero, ....
228,000
Sra. Giles,
100,000
S. Loza, ....
150,000
John Cornell, ....
132,000
A. Jaarez, ....
100,000
F. Acosta, ....
100,000
L. Oabiier, ....
100,000
P. Alvarado, ....
120,000
A race-course and fair grounds (uniting pleasure with utility) are about
being established near the village. This enterprise is regarded with
interest, and when completed will undoubtedly attract thousands of
Tisitors.
The smaller holding.? of Gerald Dillon, Van Pradt, W. Tinsoa, John
lan^don, and many others were also included, but most of these are no
longer of this partido. The returns of stock at that time were — 4,936
cows, 1 ,997 horses, 2,327 fine sheep, 29,052 mestiza sheep, 1,200 Creole
sheep, being an average of 120 cows, 50 horses, and 800 sheep per square
league, The extent of the partido was 40 square leagues; valuatioa
9,000,000 in 1862, and 25,000,000 in 1865. The valuation of laud is
$800,000 per league for estancias, and 1,000 to $1,500 per cuadra for
chacras. The traveller will be much struck with the elegant style of the
country-seats of Mr. Cotlin, Don Francisco Madero, and the families of
Ramos Mejia. Mr. Coffin is a leading American merchant in Buenos Ayres^
and has contributed much to the advancement of Moron; his residence^
called Ohio Park, isy fitted up in the best American style, and provided with
all the latest improvements in agricultural implements and machinery.
There is a small theatre at Moron, where balls are given in the summer
seasons. The state-schools are attended by 65 boys and 80 girls. The
English residents are about fifty in number. Justice of Peace, Don Bliguel
TJiion ; Curate, Rev. Francisco Romero ; Post-master, Don Andres Abascal;,
Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, §270,000.
Digitized by
Google
MEILO. 33
Moron is 2^ leagues N. of the Matanzas river, 2 S.E. of Rio de Las
Conchas, 9 N.N.E. of Gaduelas, and 9 E.of Villa Luxan.
Merlo.
Situate 7 leagues W. of Bmeaos Ayres, is a new partido formerly com-
prised in that of Moron : it is bounded on the N. add W. by Moreno, from
which it is separated by the Siyer Conchas, on the S. bj Matanzas, and on
the E. by Moron. It has an area of 14^ square leagties, and the principal
estaucias have been already mentioned in speaking of Moron. M. Wyatt
Smyth's establishment is often risited by strangers from Europe, the ar-
rangements beinig in exc^ent order, and giying a favorable impression of
camp life : there is a good deal of land under grain, and the estancia is
within a short distance of etttier the Merlo or Morew) stations. There are
niimbers of Irish sheep-farmers and puesteros in this partido, and the total
English population numbers over 300. The estancias of Don Juan Dilton
and Mr. Pearson are near the village of Merlo. The stock returns are —
7,255 cows, 4,400 horses, 1,568 line sheep, 301,312 mestisa do., 664 pigs^
being ^n average of 500 cows, 300 horses, and 21,000 sheep per square
league. There are 1 16 chacras, covering more than 2,000 acres of tilled
land. Population returns — 1,5/9 Argentines, 158 English, 1 10 Spaniards,
52 Italians, 34 French, 2 Germans, 18 various: total 2,003. There are 72
houses and 254 ranchos : 4 Alcaldes, 19 tenientes, and 6 policemen.
Merlo is an insignificant hamlet with a few hundred inhabitants, a
Justice of Peace, Municipality, state-schools, and Gothic chapel. The '
former Justice of Peace was Don Juan Billon, a gentleman of Irish descent
and until recently there was an Irish curate, Rev. P. J. Dillon, now
Diocesan Professor of Theology. There are 18 rateable houses. That
built by Mr. Boyd is a neat country-house, and among the foreign residents
are Messrs. John Maclean, Blumstein, ahd Richmond. There is a large
mill in the neighborhood, belonging to Messrs. Blumstein and La Roche.
The branch railway to Lobos will start from Slerlo. Justice of Peace !>..
Antonio Juarez, Post-mttster D. Juan Dillon, Municipality six members,
Municipal revenue $250,000. The state-schools are attended by 40 boys
and 43 girls.
Moreno.
Situates leagnes W. of Bufenos Ayres, has an area of 10 square l^agnes^
comprising 25 estancias and 83 chacras.
^litized by Google
Name.
S. Leagaai
N. Lastra ....
i
Ocampo, family,
i
J. Costa,
i
B. Gasco, ....
i
64 Tim WESTEUV PAETIDOS.
The prlncipalestancias are —
Name. S. Leagues.
Alvarez 2i
Sra. Ramirez f
F. Poncel f
F. ifguilar, .... .... ^
The partido is bounded on the N. by Pilar, from ^hich it is separated by,
the Arroyo Escobar, on the W. by Luxan, on the S. by LasHeras, and on
the E. by Merlo. The Alvarez estancia, occupying one-fourth of the
partido, is watered by the Arroyos La Choza and Sauce, and bisected by
the line of railway running westward to Luxan. The lands of Alcorta
and Casco are situate on the Arroyo de Perros, an affluent of the Conchas
river.
The principal (ihacras are those of Carranza, Gutierrez, Posse, Westers
and Corviere; that of Carranza covering a thousand acres, beautifully
cultivated. The cabafta of the late Sr. Alcorta is a handsome property,
valued at g500,000. There are not many of our countrymen in this
partido, their number hardly exceeding 100 : they are visited by Rev. J.
O'Reilly from Villa Luxan. Agriculture is making much progress, there
being over 12,000 acres under tillage. The stock returns are — 5,950
cows, 3,876 horses, 150 fine sheep, 138,168 mestiza do., 4,200 Creole do.,
and 810 pigs, being an average of 600 cows, 400 horses, and 15,000 sheep
to the square league. The land is valued at $450,000 per league. Total
valuation 6 millions, Contribucion tax $24,000. Population returns —
1,690 Argentines, 156 French, 78 Italians, 41 English, 35 various, 61
Spaniards, 2 Germans; total 2,063. There are 63 houses 'and 31 9 ranches;
3 alcaldes, 10 tenieutes, 7 policemen, and 254 National Guards.
The village of Moreno consists of 35 houses and a dozen shops irregu-
larly grouped around a large plaza. There are also a church, state-schools,
and a good inn (Labastie). The traveller's notice will be attracted by aa
unfinished building at a corner of the plaza, with a lofty «mirador)) ; this
was the work of a Frenchman employed to build the church, who died
suddenly before completing his picturesque abcde. Moreno was a place of
some trifling importance when it was the terminus of the Western Railway,
but now it is dropping to decay. The state-schools are attended by 30 boys
and 34 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Emilio Carranza ; Post-master, Don
Felipe Yicenter ; Municipality, five members ; Municipal revenue,
$100,000. The only English residents who have houses in the village are
Messrs. Henry Gowland and Joseph Cesario. Mr. Peutefahr has an
extensive dairy, i^ith steam-power attached, and sends in the butter by
.Google
Digitized by ^
LAS HKRAS. 85
train to tlie city ; be has also a larg^ establishment for rearing silk-worms,
an industry thtit begins to assume some importance. ^
Las^ Beras.
Situate eleven leagues west of Buenos Ayrcs, is a partido of recent
formation, with an area of thirty-seven square leagues, entirely devoted to
sheep-farming. It has fifty-one estancias Averaging three-quarters of a
league each. Most of this partido was taken from that of Lujan, under
which heading the principal estancias will be found, as we are unable to
divide with sufficient accuracy the estancias belonging respectively to Las
Heras and Lujan. The partido is bounded on the North by Lujan, on the
West by Navarro, on the South by Lobos and Caauelas, and on the East
by Hatanzas. The only water-courses are the La Choza, Durazno,
and La Paja. The returns of stock for the new partido are — 6,453
cows, 7,549 horses, 5,718 fine sheep 642,356 mestiza ditto, and 361 pigs;
being an average of 170 cows, 200 horses, and 17,000 sheep per square
league. The land is decidedly over-stocked, 'and in seasons of drought the
losses in sheep have been considerable. The number of Irish farmers and
*puesteros* is very large, at least 200; the principal estancias are those of
Plomer, Casey, Lynch, Correa, Gonzalez, Dillon, Zamudio, Villamayor, &c.
The official returns of population are — 1,219 Argentines, Italians 135,
French 203, Spaniards 71, English 41, others 21 ; total 1,670. There are
fifty houses and 439 ranchos: six alcaldes, twenty-three tenientes, nine
policemen.
The town of the partido is to be called Rodriguez, after a general of that
name, but as yet there are only seven houses ; the site was marked out by
Governor Saavedra, a couple of years ago, and he ordered that the church,
•whenever built, should be dedicated to St. Patrick, as most of the neighbors
are Irishmen. Las Heras was the name of another Argentine general, in
whose honor the partido is so called. The land here.would be very suitable
for agriculture, having tiie railway to carry the produce into town. It is
within two hours' journey of Buenos Ayres.
Lnxan.
Situate nearly 14 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is the greatest Irish
settlement in South America; before the recent demarcation of new j
partidos, it had an area of 40 square leagues, comprising 179 estancias, wit|b
an average of J a league each.
-86
THE WE^XftBK ^li^TIDOS.
The partido is bounjied oa the N. by Capilla del Seflor, on the K.W.
by Giles, on the W. by Uercedes, on the S. by Kavarro and Las Beras, and
on the^ast by Moreno.
The chief estancias are the following : —
Name.
S. League.
Name.
8. League.
Oiivera,
. 3J
Mrs. Maxwell, ....
N, Gonsalez,
14
P, Burgess,
M. Biaus, ....
. H
J. Contreras, . . . .
Cruz Casas, ....
ii
J. Benites,
Peter Ham, ....
' I.i
David Clavin, . . . .
AcuQa, . • . •
1
Rodriguez, family, . . . .
P. Garaghan, . . :
• i
John Beris, .... .'. . .
B. Irigoyen,
i
9. c<asas, .... ....
L.Lagos, ....
i
Sra Caraballo, . . . ,
L. Casey,
i
Cheves family, . . . ,
li
0. Lynch,
i
Cano, family, . . . .
li
L6pez, family,
i
Casco, family, . . . ,
Maijzanares,
i
Alexander Cook, ....
Pacheco's heirs,
i
Cor4ova, family, . . . ,
Viilalba, ....
*
Gutierrez, family, . . . .
Villarino,
i
M. ^enny,
Ulrich & Co.,
i
M.Fitzsimons, ....
-J. Murphy, .... ^ . . .
i
D.Kenny,
Navarro, family,
H
Mendez, family,
K. Peralta, ....
i
Pefialva, family.
P. Colman,
i
Bamirez, family,
i
Sra. Achaval,
*
Saavedra, family,
I
John Brown,
i
'
This has always been a favoritepartido for sheep-farmers, on account of its.
central position and fine camps. It is watered by the Luxan river and the
arroyos La Choza, Durazno, Arias, &c. Land was sold a few years ago so
high as £10,000 sterling per square league, owing to the great competition
among Irishmen themselves. The otlicial valuation is little more than
a-third of that sum, viz., $450,000 per league. Total valuation 22,000,000,
against 13,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $88,000. The Irish
population in the partido is over 5,000, and they are for the most part
thriving and industrious. Several of them are possessors of decent
fortunes, with valuable tracts of land and thousands of superior mestiza sheep.
Besides the estancieros above-named there are hundreds on rented land
or in partnership as medianeros.
LUXlTf. 87
The IrnA settlers are so nomeroas that they form more than half the
population of the partido, inclading of coarse their children, who are put
iown in the official returns as Argentines, they were the nrst to try
«heep-ifa?rmhigr, which now forms the riches of the district and of Buenos
Ayres, the partido of Luian yielding over 120,060 arrobes of wool, say
3,000,000% per annum, worth £50,000 sterling. The stranger will do
well to visit the estanci^;. of Mr. John Brown, Messrs. Ham, Keliy, Casey
Lynch and others. The first-named resides about two leagues south of
Luxan, and has a fine estancia-hoiise newly built, and surrounded with a
quinta and peach-plantation : our hospitable countryman is native of Wex-
ford, and has resided many years in the country. An easy gallop of half an
hour further south takes us to Mr. Hamm's large estancia, where the owner
will give you dinner 'and bed, and you can start next moi'ning for Casey's,
another valuable establishment, in the direction of Navarro.
Mr. Owen Lynch's estancia is near Moreno, with a comfortable farm-
house. Fitzsimmons, Burgess and Murphy are north of the River Lujan ;
Garaghan and Cruz Casas are south of La Choza ; Irigoyen, Lagos and David
Clavin lie between the Arroyo Durazno and La Choza. The large estancia
of Don Domingo Oliviera is traversed by the railway, and watered on either
side by the Lujan river and Canada de Arias.
The official returns of stock are — 16,223 cows, 9,536 horses, 750 fine
^heep, 790,400 meslizaditta,6,000 Creole ditto, and 2,710 pigs; being an
average of 400 cows; 250 horses, and 20,000 sheep per sqnare league. The
lands are greatly over-stocked, having fully double their proper complement.
In seasons of drought the losses have been ruinous, but there is usually in
summer a great crop of thistles which protects the young grass from the
scorching heat. The land south of the town is some of the richest in the
province, especially a vein of five or six leagues in width which runs from
MorenotoLeones, a distance of about fourteen leagues. In the north and
north-west the land is good, but near the town it is light and uncertain.
This partido is not at all suited for beginners. If the Municipality would
encourage agriculture by bestowing farm-lots, as in the Swiss Colony of
Baradero ,it would add immensely to the wealth and importance of the partido.
Agriculture is making some progress, there being 363 chacras, with an
extent of 12,000 acres under tillage, or about an average of eight cuadras
to each chacra. Most of these are in the immediate vicinity of the town,
and Italians and other foreigners raise wheat, vegetables and fruit in large
quantities. The traffic with the neighboring partidos, by means of bullock-
carts, was for a long time much impededby the difficult passes of the Lujjan
and other rivers, but now bridges are at all the points of most importance .
88
THE WESTERN, PARTIDOS.
The fiae estancia belonging to the family of OUvera is 3| leagues in
extent, and situated in this partido, between the towns of Luxan and
Mercedes, ^n the estancia there are five large ffmontes,» and no less than
thirty^five «puestos,» the majority of which are rented to Irish estanderos^
and the remainder are used by the proprietor as stations for ((capones)*
sent in to the Buenos Ayres market, from his other estancia, called La
Potrilla. The following is a list of the principal tenants on the land : —
Name.
Puestos.
Name.
^Pueetot-
Bernard Heavy,
4
Thomas White,
1
John Brown,
3
Pierre Elicabe,
Bernard Lynes,
2
John Slammon,
Michael Gardner,
4.
Joseph H'Laughlin,
JohnK^lIy,
1
Thomas Kane, •
Patrick Sullivan,
1
James Doughton,
Thomas Keegan,
1
torenzo Carcagno,
•J. Keenan, ....
1
Thomas Glavin,
On the riVer Lujan, Bud about eight squares from the principal station of
the Western railway, is the station called OUvera, which is a great
convenieneiB for those living on this estate, the farmers being able to send
their wool and hides by rail into town at 25 per cent, less than what is
charged by bullock carts. The estancia is within three hours ride of" town ;
«capones)) from the estancia can also be sent by rail twice a day to town.
In the Estancia de las Acacias, which is only six squares from the railway
station, is the fine tam breeding establishment so well known ; one flock is
composed of pure Bambouillet, selected from the flocks of the celebrated
French farm of M. Gilbert de Wideville ; there is also another flock, l,50a
head of pure Negrettes from the Bemedios, which is being crossed with
Bambouillet. The estancia is fronted by the river Lujan for a league and
a-half, and on the opposite side has the Arroyo de Arias, from whence
springs the fine river Las Conchas, 'which falls into the Parang, in front of
the town of the same name. The land is extremely fertile, and along the
Biver Lujan high and adapted for chacras, and on the other side the land is^
low, skirted by beautiful «banados,)) and peculiarly adapted for sheep
farming, being freed from all danger of drought. The family of Olivera
has also a fine estancia in the partido 23 de Mayo, six leagues distant from
that town, and six leagues in extent. It is fronted by the Biver Saladillo,
and the well-known (dagunaw called Potrillo. There are thirty c(puestos»'
on the It^nd, and about 50,000 fine mestiza sheep, nearly all cared hy^
Irishmm, who hold the flocks on thirds. There are also in this estat^lc
about 5;000 head of ^horned cattle, and 500 mares, divided into differetit
I4JXAN. 89
«rode09.» A diligence every second day leares Chivilcoy for the 25 de
Mayo, on the arrival cf the first train from Buenos Ayres: this coach
arriresat the 25 de Mayo at night. When the Lobos railroad will be
finished this estanoia will be as near it as to Chivilcoy. Nearly all the
peones, puesteros, and shepherds on these fine estates, are British subjects.
Away in the far South, at Quequen Grande, the Olivera family also own a
large estancia, some ten leagues of Government land, but as yet there are
no foreigners on this property, which is purely a cattle farm, having about
1 1,000 head of homed cattle, 200 horses, and 3,000 mares. The estancia
bouse is brick, and built overlooking the Arroyo Quequen, at the Paso de
Otero, on the hills of Malatu6 : this fine estate is distant about 270 miles
from the city. This wealthy estanciero family is also owner of the
Estancia de los Remedios, in the district or partido of San Jos6 de Flores,
as already mentioned in the list of proprietors in that partido. This small
ram breeding estancia is not far frdm the Floresta station, which is only
thirty minutes ride from the city ; it is 400 squares square— 28 squares are
under peach mounts, 50 squares under alfalfa, which are rented to farmers ;
also large fields for caring cattle on the way into market, fenced with
flandubay posts and wire ; the charge for minding the cattle is one paper
dollar per head per day, or $iOmjk per month for horses. On this fine ,
farm Mr. Edward Olivera, one of the most enterprising of Argentines,
resides. On the farm is a fine Negretti flock picked from the flocks of •
Keller de Chrezelitz, in Silesia, and from Moideuteu and Ischendorff, in
Mecklenburg ; the fleeces of rams give an average weight of 20S to 22U
in the grease, and the sheep about 176 per fleece. The general average
for the sheep is ISS per fleece. This flock was started in 1858, with
only twenty-eight sheep and three rams, from Chrezetitz; in 1S65,
three rams, Moideuteu, were introduced, and in 1868 three more rams from
Ischendorff ; each year the flocks are revised, and all animals not up to the
mark are taken out, there only remaining 200 breeding sheep, the
remainder sold, thus the breed from this flock is now scattered over this
Republic, the Banda Oriental, and Entre-Rios, and to be found at all the best
estancias. Few men have labored more to advance the industrial interests
of this country than Mr. E. Olivera, the proprietor, who has travelled over
Europe, and inspected all the very best farms in Germany. Since his return
to the River Plate he has been a prominent writer in the newspapers on all
such matters, and is chief editor of the Rural Magazine^ a publication of real
practical worth, and supported by the principal estancieros in this country.
Villa Lujan is one of the oldest and most historic towns in the ProvincM^
The royal schedule for its foundation bears date 1756, and the present
90 THE WESTj$R;!V partidos.
cbarcfa was begua va 1760 and timshed three years later. The place Iras
besieged by the ladiaas and miraculoasly sayed by a feg ia 179(0. At the
begiimiog of the preseat ceatury it was the sfafiirtiag-poiat for traveUers
prooeeding to the upper Proyiaces^ ; aad duriag the English iavasion of
1806 the vice-roy Liniers escaped hither from B. Ayres with the buUioaaad
treasures of the Cabiido. In 1832, Rosas iaiprisonedrGea. Paa aadkepjthiia
here seven years. The population of the town at preseat is 1 ,500aad tb^e
are two handsome State-scfaoola. The pyramid ia die Plaza bears a bust of
Gen. pelgrauo. Under the last Justice of Peace great ucoprovemeata were
made ; the lan^p-posts ia the Plaza were procured from England aad are the
same as used in London. Thechurch is famous for an antique statue of the
Blessed Virgin, aad has been rejceatly repaired by Governor Saavedra, at
an outlay of $100,000. The new bells have been cast in Buenos Ayres : the
oVl ones were cyacked ia ridagiag for the overthrow of Gen. Oribe.
The curate will show the $hrine of the Virgia, which is ao less
remarkable for its. antiquity, than for the number of pilgrims who come
hither from the upper Proviaqes and other country of South America. It
is above the high ajitar, and we ascead by a wiading-^tair which leads ihto
an apartment of the turret, oa one side commandiag a fiae view of tite
campagna, and on the other overljooking the interior of the charoh. The
offerings of sihrer arms, legs, &c., exceed 50,000 in number, weighing
alt<|gether several ajrrobes : the gifts last year amounted to fifteen pounds
of silver. Before the shrine is a silver lamp bearing the inseripiioa
*' Agustin de Curia, donavit, A. D. 17S0.",
The town takes its name from tbp river, aad the latter from a Spanish
officer, who was killed here in a battle with the indians, more than three
hundred years ago. LujaU; liowever, is not so ancient. In the beginning
of the eighteenth century a rich and devout lady of Sumampa, in B(>Uvia,
ordered a statue of the Blessed Virgin from Spain, and it was being
conveyed overland from Buenos Ayres, when the oxen got tired at the
banks of the Lujan river and coul4 ^^^ be m^e to proceed further. This
was the first origin of th^ shrine. In 1744 it became a frontier fort, aad
we have a record that the population of all the camp districts was then no
more than 6,064 souls. The frontier then ran southward by Kavarro,
Guardia Monte and Chascomus.
Lujan looks exceedingly pretty and picturesque from whatever side we
approach it, the church aad cabiido being conspicuous objects. The Plaza
is very tasteful, the streets have more animation thaa is usual in camp
towns, and there are several excellent shops, inns, coffee-houses, biUiar^Tp
rooms, &c. There are three flour mills and various brick-kilas ia th^
neighborhood, and the cemetery 13 situated on a high grpwd beyond the
rlTer, which is crossed by a good bridge. The streets much require paving,
being ahnost impassable after rain. The State-schools are fine spacious
buildings, attended by 103 boys and 84 girls. There are two resident
doctors and an apothecary. The Irish clergyman, Rev. J. O'Reilly resides
in the plaza : he has a library for the use of his parishioners. Numbers of
respectable families from Buenos Ayres have country-houses here, and
come to spend a month or two of the hot season. The annual f6te of the
town occurs on December 8, and is attended by the Governor and other
distinguished guests, when the festivities begin with a High Mass, after
whichthe natives ran t^ ^sortija,' and a banquet is given by the Munici-
pality, terminating wit^i fire-works and a, grand ball at the Gabildo.
The town has 156 riteabje houses, o^ which the best belong to — Cruz
Ca$as, Cheyes, Gintas Casal, L^zcano, Espinosa, Garralda, Jaurregai,
Montiel, Maldonado, Ormachea, Pequeflo, Ramirez, Salguero, Gruz Sein,
and Ureta, all valued from $100,000 upwards. The mill of Jammes and
Roque is valued nearly $500,000, and that of Jaurregni at $ 1 50,000. The
official returns of pppulation a^e — Argentines 4,683, English 2,573,
Spaniards 1,804, Italians 613^ French 526, Germans 51, Indians 4, various
38— total 10,292. There are 390 houses and 979 ranchos ; 6 alcaldes, 3^
tenientes, 14 policemen, and 700 National Guards. Justice of Peace, Don
Andres Lescano ; Curate, Rev. Mr. Duteil ; Postmaster, Don Jos^ Masil ;
Standard agent, Don Cruz Sein. Municipality, six mem.bers; Municipal
revenue, g220,t)00. . .
Villa Lyxan is 5i leagues S. of Gapilla del Seftor, 6 E.N.E. of Mercedes,
10 N.N.E. of Navarro, 12 N.N.W. of Gaauelas, and 9 W. of Moron.
Mercedes,
Situate 20 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is another great and flourishing
Irish settlement, with an area of 52 square leagues, containing 104
estancias.
Agriculture is not making such progress as hi more remote and less
favored districts; there are only 96 chacras, covering a little over 15,000
acres, and most of these are gardens and peach plantations which surround
the town for iiore than a, mile on every side. The official returns of
population are— 6,633 Argentines, 726 Italians, 556 English, 575 French,
369 Spaniards, 20 Germans, 2 Indians, 56 others ; total, 8,937. There are
92
THE WESTERN PABTIDOS.
456 houses, and 1,477 ranches: 10 alcaldes, 44 tenientes, 14 policemen,
and 1 ,533 National Guards
The principal estancias are —
Name.
8 Leagues.
Name.
8. Leagnei,
Unzu^j
.. 8i
M.MontoUa,. ...
Achaval, family.
4
F. Flores,
Gerostiaga,
3
Sra. Rodriguez,
P. Frias,
•• 11
M Tyrrell, .... ...
Pat. Fleming,
.. li
Aceituna, ....
M. Carranza,
H
Sra. Bogarin,
M. Bernal,
1
Bdrrancos, family,
H
S. Costa,
1
Inzua, ....
Michael Allen,
1
Thomas Ledwith,
M.Castilla,
I
James Maguire,
Duranona,
I
Silva, family,
R. Monez, family,
.. li
Galeano,
Sra. Lobo,
i
John Smith
2J
Nicholas Lowe,
4
Thomas Carney,
Rodriguez's heirs,
i
Sra. Saubidet,
E.Rosalin,
i
Bazan,
Aranguren, family, . .
1
F. Correa, , . . .
Avila, family,
t.
E. Cabral,
H. Diehl,
i
Balvidares,
Sra. Gomez,
f
N. Barrio, ....
Laurence Kelly,
4
E. Cardoso,
Thomas Maguire,
i
Escudero, ....
Vresbirueta,
i
Funes, . . . ,
J. Luenge,
4
Thomas Maguire,
Lescano, family.
.. 2i
JohuMahgn,
P. Martinez,
'.. 2i
G. Garaghan,
Lima, family,
1
Timothy Allen,
Michael Murray,
1
John Connor,
P. Suarez, ....
•• H
John Dillon,
r. Villafane,
1
John Flanagan,
A. Romero,
.. H
Sra. Giles, ....
i
V. Pueblas,
.. H
Irrazabal, ....
i
Sra. Obelar, .... . .
.. li
Patrick Keating,
', '
M. Delpont,
1
Edward Martin,
':■
L. Rodriguez,
T. Freyre,
Devoto brothers,
. , ,^ , ' "liaitized
Patrick Murphy,
bvGobgle
MERCEDES. ' 93
The partido is bounded on the N. by GUeai, on the W. by the new
partido of Suipacha, and the Rio de Saladas, which separates it from
Chivilcoy, on the S.by Navarro, and on the E. by Luxan and Las Heras.
The lands are watered by the River Luxan and its affluents, the Arroyos
Leones, Cardoso, Durazuo^ Balta. Frias, &c. The large estancias of Unzue,
Achaval and Frias lie N, of the town of Mercedes, a little beyond the
Luxan river, whic|i is crossed near Fria^. by a bridge. The estancia
formerly belonging to Hardoy and Woodgate has a beautiful house, in the
style of an English cottage, and attached to this there was, till recently, a
cabaila of fine sheep. The lands of Thomas Maguire, Flanagan, and
Ledwithlie between Unzud's estanci^t and the Arroyo Leones : tb6se of
Carney, Keating and Allen are in^ the neighborhood of the Encadenadas
lakes, near the partido of Chivilcoy. Fleming and Garaghan are at the
Lagunas Turbiaand Espadana, in the direction of Navarro: Mr. Fleming,
some years ago, was surprised here by the Indians,, who partly cut his
throat, but not so. much as to prevent his altimate recovery. Messrs. Lowe
^brothers have a nice place close to the Arroyo Balta, about two leagues E.
of Mercedes. Michael Murray, James Maguire, Lawrence Kelly, and Mrs.
Kenny are situate S. of Freyre station, between Cardoso's estancia and
the Arroyo Saladas. John Connor adjoins the Pueblas estancia, a couple of
leagues S. of Mercedes. John Dillon's and Edy^ard Martin's lands are
near the point where the Arroyos Leones, Durazno, and Cardoso meet, to
form the head-waters of the River Luxan. Patrick Murphy and Don
Antonio Romero are southward, between John Smyth's estancia of Saladas
and the boundaries of Navarro. The estancias of Suarez and Ruiz Mones
are S.W. of Los Leones arroyo, and Carranza's and Duraflona's are near
the-Leones lagoon, There is a portion of the Gorostiaga estancia in this
partido, but the greater part is in Chivilcoy, the owner is the present
3Iinister of Finance, and he lias 60,000 sheep on the land : the principal
estancia house is a couple of leagues from Freyre station. The railway
from Mercedes to Chivilcoy crosses the lands of Gomez, Sanchez, Mejia,
Aranguren, Dillon, Martin, Murray, Suarez, Freyre, Gonsalez, Barrancos,
and Gorostiaga.
There are twenty Irish estancieros, whose landed properties cover in
the aggregate about 70,000 acres English, and these are stocked with a
quarter of a million sheep. But this will only give an imperfect idea of
the number and importance of the Irish community of Mercedes. Most of
the native estancias are either rented out to our countrymen, or the
proprietors have Irishmen as medianeros or puesteros to care their sheep.
It may be estimated that there are a million sheep in this partido, either
Digitized by VjOOQIC
94 THE W£STERIf PARTIDOS.
belonging to or cared by Irishmen, \rhose numbers, including their families,
exceed 2,000. It is a legitimate source of pride to all foreigners, and
especially to English and Irish residents, to be able to point to so many
prosperous countrymen in the camp, who landed on these shores a few yeats
ago with no other capital than a strong arm and an honest and laborious
purpose, and who have turned the desert camps into valuable sheep-farm's,
and gained for themselves the fortunes so nobly earned. The Irishmen of
Mercedes vie with the most generous of their countrymen either here or in the
old country, in supporting their clergy and institutions. Their parish priest
is the Bev. J. Ljnch, who has a library for their use at Mercedes : many of
these have their daughters at school in the Irish Mercy convent at Buenos
Ayres, and each farmer has also a tutor in his house to educate the boys ;
this is no less true of the other partidos, wherever Irishmen are found.
The stock returns are — 22,809 cows, 13,570 horses, 247 fine sheep,
1,326,209 mestiza sheep, 420 Creole sheep, and 969 pigs, being an average
of 400 COWS, 2GlO horses, and 26,000 sheep per square league. The land
is mostly assessed dt $500,000, but some is so low as §320,000 per squarrf
league, and other paits go up to double the last figure. Total valuation
of town and district 57 ,000,000, against 28,000,000 in 1 862. Contribuciott
tax, $228,000.
The citj of Mercedes, as it is officially styled, is one of the best tb\vns in the
caitip, with a population of 3,000 souls. It has many handsome public
buildings, a neat plaza, 33 very good shops, two inns, several hack-
coaches, three doctors, an apothecary, two lawyers, public and private
schools, and 332 rateable houses : of these last the best belong to —
Villafaile, Aranguren, Saubidet, Silva, Pueblas, Napoleon, Mones, Martinez,
Catroque, Lobo, Lesciino, Giraldo, Guilloto, Espil, ^. Fresco, Cardoso,
Carniona, Cabral, and Benitez, all valued over $100,000. The traveller
will find every information from Messrs. Torroba Bros., who have a large
wholesale and retail store at a corner of the plaza ; the owners are old
Spaniards, but speak English fluently, and do a greatbusiness in groceries,
hardware, dry-goods, &c., principally with the Irish sheep-farmers : the
house was established in 1857, and has a branch at Chilvilcoy. The new
cabildo is a handsomfe structure, iu the plaza, and has a ball-room 100 feet
long, iu whicli the annual ball and festivities are held on September 24th,
the day of Nuestra SeQora de Mercedes. The church is commodious and
well kept, and on Sunday mornings it is crowded with Irishmen, for whoift
Father Lynch celebrates Mass and sometimes gives a sermon. The state-
school was built in 1866, at a c6st of $460,000: it has a fine front
supported by six Doric columns, and surmounted by a balustrade, with a
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
BfflBGBimS. 95
dozen vases of terra-cotta : the boys' school is oa the right, and the girls^
on the left, each accommodating 200 pupils; the wings are respectively
occupied by the master and mistress, and have nice suites of rooms. Sr.
H aldonado has conducted the boys' school for ten years with the utmost
satisfaction. It will agreeably surprise the stranger to find the state-
schools of this and other camp towns so comfortable and neatly furnished,
and the appearance of the children so orderly and respectable. , The
Provincial branch-bank is under the charge of Don Pedro Arana. The
railway station is of very large dimensions and tastefully finished ; it is
under the direction of Sefior Villarino, who has been employed on the line
since its commencement : an excellent lunch-saloon is attached to the
station. The theatre of the town is small and uncomfortable ; a Spanish
company plays here once or twice a year. Larroque's mill is well worth a
visit ; it is two miles N. of the town, close to the bridge over the I.uxan
river, and was built in 1856, at an expense of £8,000 sterling. It works
bysteapaas well as water, and can grind 100 fanegas in 2i hours: the
vrater-wheel is S^horse, the steam-engine 15-horse power, the latter
consuming li tons of coal daily. The mill is three stories high, and a
fine view oi the surrounding country is obtained from the roof. Some of
the quintas near the town are laid out with much taste : the best are those
of — ^Duranona, Delepiane, Romero, Lertua, Salvo, Solveyra, Can6, Punte,
Parody, Urario, Millan, Mansilla, Lecot, Lescano, Iturrios, Gariboti,
Campora, Bosquiaso, and Arze. Mercedes was called Guardia de Luxan at
the beginning of the present century, when it was held as a frontier outpost.
A great battle was fought abcrut two miles westward some forty years ago,
in which the Indians cut to pieces all the garrison, and a large wooden cross
marks the spot of the disaster. Not far bence the telegraph wires start off
northward to Bosario. The cemetery of Mercedes is badly kept ; it is
beyond the line of railway. Several Baenos Ayrean families have countrj-
houses pear the town, and come here for the summer months; it is
three and a-half hours' journey from Buenos Ayres, and there are two trains
each way daily. The Western or Central Criminal Tribunal resides at
Mercedes, and there is a prison under the Cabildo : the Criminal Judge is
©r ; Justice of Peace, Don Pedro Saubidet ; Irish Curate,
Rev. J. Lynch; Post-master, Don Exequiel Landivar; Standard agency^
Messrs. Torroba Bros. ; Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue,
$620,000.
Mercedes is ^ leagues 8. of Giles, 9 S.E. of Carmen de Areco, I!
E.N.E. of Chivilcoy, 11 N. of the Rio Salade, 8N.N.W. of Navarro, and
6 W.S.W. of Luxan.
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96 THE WeSTTERir PAATIDOS.
Suipacha.
Situate about 26 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is a new partido, not yet
properly organized, haring neither Municipality, Justice of Peace, nor
other public official. There is no town of any kind, but tbe probable site
may bQ supposed to be on the estaucia of Don Manuel Carranza, S.W. of
the Laguna de Leones, and six leagues due W. of the town Mercedes. The
pal^tido will be bounded on the N. by Carmen de Areco, on the W. by
€hacabuco and Cbivilcoy, on the S. by the Western Railway and Mercedes,
and the E. by Mercedes; with an area not exceeding 25 or 30 square
leagues. The lands are fertile and well-watered, but entirely devoted
to sheep-farming. The Arroyo de Leones is the principal water-
course of the district: there is also a lagoon called Las Nutrias. The
estancias to be comprised in this new partido will probably be the following
— Carnfey, Rodriguez, Martinez, Carranza, Diehl, Barrio, Correa, Bogarin,
Barrancos, Freyre, Balvidares, Mones Ruiz, Suarez, ViUafafte, Durafiona,
Inzua, Silva, Costa, &c., which have already been described under the
heading of Mercedes. We have no returns of population, stock, &c., all
which are induded in those of Mercedes. The partido derives its name
from a victory over the Spaniards in the war of Independence.
Chivilcoy.
Situate 3 1 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 90 square leagues,
and may be regarded as the cradle of agricultural industry in these
countries. More than half the to^al extent is under crops, there being no
fewer than 1602 grain farms, with 300,000 acres under tillage, thus
shewing an average of 40 cuadras to each chacra. The project of an
agricultural settlement had long been agitated by Don Domingo Sarmiento
(now President of the Republic), and the colony was founded on Christmas
eve 1854, one of the first settlers being Mr. Krause, a German: at that
time it was a bare desert, the same as Indian territory, and the first settlers
had not even a tree to shelter them, but lived in bullock-carts till they
were able to dig wells and put up a few mud ranches. Before a year
elapsed the progress of the place was marvellous, alid to-day when looking
around the numberless grain-farms, handsome quintasand flourishiug towa
Digitized by
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CHIVILCOT.
97
^f Chiyilcoy it is difficult to realize that all this is only the ^vork of fifteen
years. It is a splendid proof of the capabilities of the coui^try, and an
encouragement to Argentines for them to behold a glorious future in
agricultural pursuits. Krause, Bunge, and Soarez were among the first
cultivators, and the number at present is too ^reat to give* the names of all.
Among the principal are —
Krause,
Klappenbach,
Guerrea,
CuQi,
Lucio,
Bobbio,
Hicero,
Cassi,
^Elortondo,
Sabillaga,
Torrijos,
Soarez,
Sacutegui,
Recarde,
Rodriguez,
Roldan,
Perez,
Gatero,
Ojeda,
Pagola,
Oyamburu,
Nichen,
Velarde,
Uriarte,
Uzueta,
Mdchinto,
Galbencio.
Guillieji,
Goyeneche,
Gaitan,
Gardey,
Galarce,
Echave,
Espotorno,
Esteco,
Acosta.
In 1862tbe valuation of the part ido was under 12,000,000; in 1865 it
had risen to 43,000,000, and at present it cannot be short of $ (00,000,000
iUfc. It is the boast of President Sarmiento that, before his period of office
expires (1874), he will have ((A hundred Chivilcoys throughout the
Argentine Republic.)) For a long time Chivilcoy suffered a great check
from the difficulty and expense of sending its produce to Buenos Ayres by
bullock-carts; in 1864 the crop of Indian corn was so abundant that the
farmers burnt it for fuel, the cost of transport being more than the value
of the grain. Since the opening of the railway, 1866, the impetus given
to farming has been unparalleled, and the wheat crops are now so large
that it must soon form an article of exportation, whereas only ten years
ago we depended entirely on flour from the United States.
Most of the <(chacreros)> of Chivilcoy are foreigners, but there are also
many natives, and the moral tone of the country will be immeasu ably
improved if the «paisanos)) can be induced to adopt habits oMndustrv
instead of the vagrant and savage life of a Gaucho. Digitized by vrrOOQiC
GG
98
THE WESTERxS PARTIDOS.
There are some large estancias in the partido, the principal being : —
Name. •
S. Leagues.
Name.
S. Leagues,
White & Co.,
.... 5i
Montenegro, family, . . . .
14
Terreros, . • . .
.... 10
Barroso, .... . . . .
1
Gorostiaga, .*. . .
3
Pereyra, family, . . . .
14
Cranwell, family,
.... 3i
Mansilla, . . . .•
1
Barrios, family,
.... 2i
Lobos, family,
2
Biaus, ....
.... 3i
Sra. Amespil, . . . •
i
Ronayne, ....
I
Valladores Bros.
i
Baraos, ....
li
Barrancos, family, . . . .
4
Lopez, ....
4
Cruz, .
f
Ovejero, ....
2
Diaz, family. . . . ,
i
Sousa, family,
.... ^
M. Ronayne, ....
4
V. Torres
2
F. Morris, .... . • . .
i
The partido is bounded on the N. by Carmen de Areco and Chacabu: o,
on the W. and S. by the Rio Saiado, which separates it from Bragado and
25 de Mayo, and on the E. by Navarro and Mercedes. The largest estancia
is that of Don Juan N. Terrero, near Las Toscas, on the banks of the
Saiado : the Canada de Peludos is the boundary between this estancia
and Mr. Dowling's, which latter is in the partido of Ghacabuco, The
Cranwell estancia is S. of Terrero's, extending from the chacras of
Chivilcoy down to tlie Saiado : it is divided into nine portions, for Mrs*
Cranwell and her eight children. The great establishment of Mr. James
White and Seflor Villarino is one of the finest in the west, and well worthy
of a visit : it extends in a line of four leagues from the town of Chivilcoy
to the edge of the Saiado, and is devoted partly to agriculture and partly
to grazing. This was one of the first model farms in the country, whea
tillage was first experimented here, and Mr. White's enterprise and
improvements contributed in no small degree to stimulate and promote
agricultural industry in Chivilcoy. The country on all sides of Mr.
White's place, for 'miles around, is a succession of rich grain-farms ; and a
couple of leagues further east is the estancia San Roman, the property of
Don Manuel Lopez, and crossing the Caflada Rica we come to the estancia
of Mr. Michael Ronayne. The lands of Biaus, Montenegro, and Ramos
are washed by the Rio Saiado ; those of Pcrojra Souza, Barrios, Rojas and
Barrancos are close to the Arro\o Saladas, which separates them from
Mavarro and Mercedes. The greater part of the Gorostiaga estancia is in
the partido of Chivilcoy, besides three square leagues in Mercedes,
adjoining: it comprises four establishments, San Jos6, ban Bernardo, San
Patricio, and Santa Trinidad, each of which has a lagoon of the same name
o
CHIVILCOY. 99
and estancia house and plantation, and a large stock of sheep and cattle :
there is a railway station on the land, called after the proprietor, and
situate about midway from Freyre to Chivilcoy. The lands about Chivilcoy
are very low, and watered by the Arroyos San Antonio, Hinojo, and Cafiada
de Chivilcoy, which fall into the Rio Salado. The Lobo estancia is a couple
of leagues S.W. of Chivilcoy, and those of Torres and Ovejero are further
westward. The prolonged line of railway to Bragado will traverse the
chacras intervening between the estates of White and Cranwell, and across
the Rio Salado in front of the large estancia of Don Mariano Biaus, in the
partido of Bragado : this extension will be 25 miles long.
The returns of stock for Chivilcoy are — 111,852 cows, 38,462 horses,
825 fine sheep, 875,624 mestiza sheep, 5,200 creole, and 4,300 pigs;
being an average of 2,500 cows, 800 horses, and 20,000 sheep per square
league. The land is variously valued from $200,000 to $500,000 per
league. The Irish population is comparatively small, not exceeding 200
in number : they are visited by Father Lynch from Mercedes. The oflBcial
returns of population are — 10,690 Argentines, 347 Italians, 252 Spaniards,
220 French, 84 English, 21 Germans, 5 Indians, 43 various: total, 1 1,664.
There are 298 houses, and 2,784 ranchos, including 266 pulperias: 16
alcaldes, 52 tenientes, 15 policemen, and 2,1 16 National Guards.
Chivilcoy promises to be the finest town in the camp. The streets are
wide, the houses well-built ; the plaza covers eight acres, and the aspect of
the place is busy and prosperous. The basis of its vitality consists in the
chacras, which form a zone of rich fertility on all sides, and the shops are
well supplied with merchandise of every description. There is a first-rate
club, with reading-room 50 feet long, billiard-tables, coffee-room, &c., the
exterior being decorated with marble pillars. A public library has been
recently started by Mr. Krause, to which President Sarmiento and General
Mitre handsomely contributed. There is also a small theatre ; and a
printing-office is about to be established. The state-school is exceedingly
handsome ; over the front is a handsome statue of Our Lord bidding little
ones to come unto him ; this is the work of M. Duteil : the arrangements of
the school are elegant and commodious, the attendance numbering 101
boys and 50 girls. A couple of years ago a new church was commenced,
on a scale of unnecessary magnitude; the works have been of course
abandoned, after a foolish outlay of money, and a very strange spectacle
is now presented by the posts formerly used for scaffolding, which have
taken root and blossomed luxuriantly. The best shops are in the plaza^
and that of Torroba Brothers is a rendezvous for English neighbors. The?
town has a doctor, apothecary, photographer, auctioneer, and 85 shops, ^
aG2
100
THE Western partidos.
The cacique Cdliqueo and some of his friendly Indians sometimes visit the
town to buy necessaries. There are 237 rateable houses, of which the
best are those belonging to —
Villegas,
Valentino,
Morel,
Ortega,
Oneto,
Payr6,
Peyras,
Pechien,
Peyeano,
Rey Dresco&Co.,
Sanchez,
Soarcz,
Torrijos,
Rodriguez,
Medina,
Muniaguriri,
Lac6,
Lima,
Lopez,
Grosso,
Giraldo,
Gamen,
Gomez,
Krause,
Lobos,
Duarte,
Denegri,
Echaide,
Ferreyra,
Forguez,
Grego,
Chaves,
DuraAona,
Castagnino,
Cnesta,
Cabant,
Calderon,
Costa,
Benitez,
Ayarza.
There is a large proportion of two-story houses, giving the town quite a
European look. Castagnino's quinta is exceedingly pretty, and those of
Krause and Bunge are fiimous for delicious peaches. The railway station
is at some distance from the town, but there are always hack-coaches in
waiting for the trains. The journey to Buenos Ayres takes 5i hours, and
there are two trains daily, each way. Justice of Peace, Don Federico E.
Gonsalez ; Curate, Rev. Severo Soria ; Post-master, Don Jos6 Escala ;
Standard agency, Messrs. Torroba Bros. ; Municipality, seven members.
Chivilcoy i? 4 leagues N.N.E. of the Rio Salado, 10 S.E. of Chacabuco,
11 S.S.W. of Carmen de Areco, 13 S.W. of Giles, and 11 W.SlV. of
Mercedes.
Digitized by
Google
THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS. 101
CHAP.VIL
SOUTH-WESTERH PARTIDOS.
GAMUELAS TO TAPALQUEIi.
Cafindas.
Situate 11 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 41 square
leagues, and comprises 162 estailcias. It is bounded on the Pt. by the
Matanzas river, which separates it from the partido of the same name, on
the W. by Lobos and Navarro, on the S. by Guardia del Monte, and on the
E. San Vicente. It Is watefred by the Arroyo Cauuelas, GaQada de los
Pozos, and other tributaries of Matanzas river, but has no lagoons of any
size. The partido has long been famous for its Cabaftas of prize rams and
ewes for improving the breed of sheep, and some of its establishments are
remarkably fine. The camps are well-suited for sheepfarming, as they
retain water to a late period in summer, and in making wells water is found
at a very short depth. Agriculture is also attended to, there being no
fewer than 308 chacras, covering about 15,000 acres of tillage. This
partido was one of the first settled by Englishmen, and our countrymen
number over 200. The land is valued at $400,000 per league. Total
vali&tion 25,000,000, against 15,000,000 in 1862. Contribuc^Qta^Tp
$100,000. Digitized by g
102
THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS.
The principal estancias are : —
Name. B. Leai
M*Clymont, . .
W. Whyte, ..
Alfaro,
Lahitte,
Halbaoh,
E. Villegas, .
B. Millan, . .
Sra. LenoQa, .
Martinez, family
Alcoba,
Cebey,
lobar,
£. Loysa,
Bamos,
Martinez de Hoz
B.Garranza,. . .
Acosta, family,
L. Aguero, . . .
Barreda,
Cardenas, . . .
Bosa,
gnef
Name. 8
3i
F. Perez,
3
Nuflez,
2
Peter Ball,
1
Casales,
11
Garcia, family, ....
2i
Morales,
i
Bargas,
*
Castro, family,
*
A.Pereyra,
i
C. Villegas,
i
F. Tavares,
1
Lalama,
♦
L. Loysa,
i
Thompson, family, . . . .
H
Avila, family, ...:
H
Alegre, do.
2i
Carrizo, do. . . . .
H
W. Dickson,
I
Mrs. Hanlon, . . . .
1
D. Pereyra,
i
H. Harilaos,
Leagnes.
i
i
i
• i
1
i
i
2
1
*
I
i
f
i
f
I
i
i
i
i
The estancias of Whyte and McCljmont are among the finest in the
country : the first is called La Campana, situate between the Arroyo de
Cafluelas and the Matanzas river, and is famed for its superior breeds of
sheep, horses, and cows, mostly imported from England. This cstancia is
got up in thorough English style, at great expense, and was one of the
first in Buenos Ayres to be completely fenced in. The M'Clymont estate
runs S.E. from the town of GaQuelas, about two leagues, and is similar in
character to the last : these model establishments were founded by two
enterprising Scotchmen, who may be regarded as having been the pioneers
of industry in this part of the country : the mansion houses, farm-sheds, <&c.,
are of the most comfortable kind, and surrounded by orchards, wheat-
fields, and extensive meadow lands. Halbach's estancia of Los Remedies,
between Hoate Grande ajid the Matanzas river, was another costly and
valuable property, but it changed hands a couple of years ago ; the
buildings and plantations, were sold for a tithe of their value, ^o less
unfortunate was a joint-stock co. called Sociedad Pastoral, chiefly dented
to the rearing and importing of fine sheep and cattle^: the lauds were
CAi^UELAS. 103
situate at El Ombi), about midway between CaQuelas and San Vicente,
adjoining Alfaro's estancia, and comprising over two square leagues. The
enterprise was broken up, and SeQor Martinez de Hoz now dedicates
himself to the same business, importing superior animals from England and
Ciermany. The lands of Barreda, Lahitte and Villegas lie S. of the tpwn,
and those of Pereyra, Miilan and Gastro are on the borders of Matanzas.
The stock of the partido counts— 12,902 cows, 13,003 horses, 16,380 fine
sheep, 818,158 mestiza sheep, 1,000 creole sheep, and 122 pigs; being an
average of 350 cows, 350 horses, and 21,000 sheep per square league.
The population returns are — 4,191 Argentines, 131 Italians, 247 Spaniards^
88 French, 79 English, 19 Germans, 174 various ; total, 4,933. There are
252 houses and 703 ranchos, 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 12 polioemen^
and 650 National Guards.
The village of Catluelas has about 2,000 inhabitants, mostly setttets from
Old Spain or the Pyrenees. It is prettily situfited, and has a fine new
church, besides state-schools attended by 54 boys and 48 girls. There arc
a resident doctor and 2 apothecaries ; 4 drapers' and 1 5 grocers' shops ;
6 carpenters' shops, employing 20 men ; 2 forges, employing 4 men ;
3 brick-kilns, making about 2,000,000 bricks each season ; 4 shoemakers,
employing 30 men and women ; one silversmith and assistant ; 5 bacracas
for storing produce, which keep 30 bullock-carts constantly employed;
24 brick-layers, and 40 hodmen, who have constant work ; 1 confectioner,
t hotel, 4 inns, 1 tailor and assistant, 1 candle-manufacturer, 3 billiard-
tables, 6 butchers. There are 70 rateable houses, of which the best are
those of — Castro, Gonsalez, Arrieta, Fuentes, John Griffin, Villegas,
Zelarayan, Rodriguez,, Muiliz, Bletcher, Garcia, and Galicia, valued from
$70,000 upwards. Justice of Peace, Don Desiderio Davel ; Curate, Rev.-
Alfonso Raffaeli ; Postmaster, Don Ventura Cano ; Standard agents, Messrs.
Davel & Co. ; municipality, si;L members; Municipal revenue, $160,000*
The Irish of this district are visited by the Rev. Mr. Cucran, from Lobos,
once a month, and the Scotch pastor, Rev. Mr. Smyth, attends once a month
at Mr. McClymont's estancia. The registry books shew that of every 100
children baptized, 55 are legitimate and 45 are illegitimate : this is about
the average in many of the rural districts. Cailuelas is distant five
leagues from San Vicente, eight from Merlo, ten from Rio Salado, and eight
from Guardia Monte.
Navarro,
Situate 17 leagues W.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, and 9 leagues W. of
Cafluelas, has an area of 68 square leagues : it is bounded ^^Y^Ap^^fp
igi ize y g
104
THE SOUTH-WESTERN P.4RTID0S.
Villa Luxan, on the W.by Chivilcoy, on the S. by the Rio Salado and Lobos^
and on the E. by Las Heras and Gafiuelas.
The pripcipal estancias are —
The partido is watered by the Arroyo Sjaladas which falls into the Ri(^
Salado, and by the Cafladas of Navarro, Garzas, Tomasa, and San Lorenzo,
which feed the great lake of Navarro. The camps are well suited ifor
sheep, and so low thut they retain water even in tha driest seasons ; some
parts are much infested with wabrojo)) burr, but most of the partido is free
from this nuisance. The foreign estancieros.are very wealthy, owning
about one-fourth of the whole district, and the total Irish population may
be set down at 1,000. The Rio Salado washes the southern camps of the
partido, and the passage of this river is very dangerous, especially ift
o
Name.
, 8. Loaguea.
Name.
S. LcagQHt
J. Smith & Unzoi, .
... 2i
Mufloz, fSamily,
t
Mrs. Norris,
2
Ramirez, ....
. . • • ^
Gahan bros.,
2
Sol^, family, ....
. . a • 7*
Diaz, family,
• • • «$
Ibarra, ....
• . . • J"
Ck)sta,
5J
Trejo, , . . .
...» ^
Almera, family,
5
Duran, ....
. . . • "T
Gasales,
... If
Piflero, ....
• • • • ^
Santaua, family,
... H
^antillan, ....
.... ^T
Kiesse,
2
Sejas, ....
• • • • ^
Peflalva,
... I*
Calderon, ....
. • a • J
Miranda, family.
n
Mrs. Kenny, ....
• • • • T'
Alvarado,
... li
John Magttire,
. • . fc T|
Cerda, family.
1
Patrick l^aguire,
...» V*
Cof rea,
1
L. Casey, ....
» . . .- V
Juarez,
f
Silva,
.... ^
Lnbo, ....
i
Caraballo, ....
. . . • ^
J. Litardo,
I
Dominguez, ....
•" • • • »
Romero, ....
i
Poggio,
.... ^
Ponce Leon, ....
i
Ocantos, ....
i
Echegaray,^ ....
1
Vega,
t
Ferreyra,
1
Adorno, ....
1
Villa,
1
Melo, ....
...» m
Zamudio, ....
1
C. Morales, ....
. • . • 1
Luna, ....
I
Moll
.... If
Papsdorf , ....
I
Rurinigo, ....
2
Benitez, ....
1
Aramburu, ....
f
Maxwell, ....
i
TfAVAEEO. . 105
winter, wheu it OTcrflows its banks for leagues aroand : strangers must not
attempt to cross it without a «vaqueano)) or guide. The lake of Navarro is
also dangerous to ford : close to this lake is the cstancia of Mrs. Norris,
whose house is fitted up with every comfort. Hard bj is another Taluable
property, that of Mr. Gahan of Merlo.and his brothcr,who resides in Ireland.
Mrs. Kenny and John Maguire have their estancias in this neighTiourhood,
and they are intersected by the Caftada dt Navarro, while Patrick Maguire
is between this stream and the Arroyo La Choza. The lands of John Smith
and Unzu6 are half way between Navarro and the Rio Salado, and the large
estanciaof Don Andres Costa is situate on this river. The Almeyra and
Diaz properties are a couple of leagues W. of Navarro: those of MoU,
Lubo, and Cerda are in the Caflada Rica, beyond Arroyo Saladas. Correa,
Morales, Calderon, and Melo, are N.W. of Navarro, and the estancias of
Santana, Sejas, and Miranda are B. of the town ; that of Papsdorf adjoins
the Norris estate, westward. The 'land is valued at $320,000 per square
league; total valuation 19,000^000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. Contri-
bi^cion tax, $76,000. Stock returns— 2«,639 cows, 19,662 horses^ 8,000
fine sheep, 1,035,030 mestiza sheep, 61,610 Creole sheep, 1,506 swine;
being an average of 400 cows, 250 horses, 19,000 sheep to the square
league. Population returnS— 8,221 Argentines, 1,053 French, 313 English,
587 Italians, 882 Spaniards, 98 Germans, 41 others; total 11,195. There
are 161 houses and 1,057 ranchos, including 44p(llperias: 5 alcaldes, 20
tenientes, and 14 police. Agriculture has made great prepress, and we
find some large grain farms : there are 122 chacras, with an aggregate of
6,000 acres under tillage.
The village of Navarro is situate on the lake of the same name, and was
first established, as a frontier outpost, in 1744. Although over a century
old it hardly counts yet a thousand inhabitants, amd the streets have an
unfinished appearance. There are 69 rateable houses, the Wst being those
6f Aguilar, Bastarrica, Bildostegui, Bosso, Costa, Sotero, Serantes,C!orrea,
Carrizo, Cagen, Espil, Frcdes, Garcia, Gorosito, Ibarra, Leonetti, Litardo,
Luna, Lavega, Marinovlch, Montovio, Olaso, Rios, Solar, Trejo, Varas,
Viftales, and Samuel Wheeler, valued from $50,000 upwards. The branch
railway from Merlo to Lobos will give increased importance to the partrdo
of Navarro: the estancierosof this district have offered the necessary land
gratis in case the line may be made to touch at Navarro, but this would be
out of the straight route. Two-thirds of the population of the town are
Basquesor Italians. The church is small but neat, and the Curate is Rev.
Sebastian Perez. The Irish congregation is visited by Rev. Mr. Curran of
Lobos. There are coaches daily to Luxan (ten leagues), and the journey
106 THE S0UTU-WESTEE5 PARTIDOS.
to fitienos Ayres is made in seven hours. Navarro boasts an inn, a club
which is maintaiued t)j the leading neighbors, and state-schools attended
by 56 boys and 50 girls. There are numerous well-stocked shops to supply
the wants of the estaucieros, and the business of the place is improving.
The. Irish Racing Club of Navarro holds meets at stated periods, the
principal members being the Gahans, Gaseys, and other estancieros: the
last cup, value §4,000 was won by Mr. Gahan^s «sebruno.»
Navarro is distant 8 leagues from Mercedes, 1 1 from Chivilcoy, 5 from
Lobos, and 7 from the Rio Salado. Justice of Peace, Don Felipe DIz;
Post-master, Don Daniel Ravelo; Municipality, six members; Municipal
revenue, §150,000.
Lobos.
Situate 18 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 62 square
leagues, comprising 97 estancias.
The partido is bounded on the N. by Las Heras, on the W. by Navarro, on
the S. by the Rio Salado and Guardia Monte, and on the E. by Ganuelas. It
is watered by the Arroyos Garzas, Tajamar, Toro, and Uncal, which fall into
the lake of Lobos, two leagues S. of the to\fn. It is one of the most
flourishing and important districts in the south, and chiefly settled by
Irishmen, who own about one-tenth of the land. The camps are in general
good, except in some places which are low and marshy, and others much
infested with aabrojo.)) Many Irish estancieros of the north made their
beginning in this partido, and it has always been a favorite district for
sheep. The arroyos are mostly of permanent water, and besides the lake
of Lobos, there is a larger one, called Cubu-cubu and covering nearly a
square league, close to the Urquiola estancia. This estancia is mostly in
the neighboring partido of Monte, and covers 9 square leagues, about
midway between the towns of Lobos and Guardia Monte. The Cascallares
territory occupies nearly all t]ie lands from Lobos to the Rio Salado, and
the estancias of Gasavalle and the late Vice-President Paz are situate on the
Arroyo Tajamar. The Arevalo estancia has three lagoons, callad La
Rabona, Colis and Rios ; and the lands of Casey and Atucha, Geoghegan,
and Varela are intersected by the Arroyo de Garzas. A league north of
the town was formerly a property of four leagues, belonging to Wright
Bros., but this has now been marked out for chacras ; and in its vicinity we
meet the estancias of John Lawler, the Murphys, Livingstone, and Zelis.
Salada Chica, the property of Don Mariano Acosta, and the lands of Viflales
and Gasavalle, are on the Rio Salado. Terence Moore, Bjivas, Cepeda^ and
o
LOBOS. 167
Barges are near the Canada del Torp, and the Yillegas estancia is on the
iwrders of Cafluelas. The partido is greatly over-stocked, the returns
shewing 28,286 cows, 27,322 horses, 18,895 fine sheep, 1,957,258 mestiza
sheep, 10,709 Creole sheep; being an average of 500 cows, 500 horses,
and 36,000 sheep per square league. The land is valued at
§200,000 to $400,000 per league. Total valuation 32,000,000, against
13,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax $128,000. Population— Argentines
12,812, Spaniards 1,242, English 916, Italians 926, French 320, Germans
62, various 131 : total 16,409. There are 352 houses and 4,064 ranches,
including 100 pulperias: 5 alcaldes, 30 tenientes, 14 police, and 1,600
National Guards.
Agriculture is making great progress: there are no fewer than 1,241
chacras, covering altogether nearly 40 acres of tillage. The approaches to
Lobos are the prettiest of any town in the province, being a succession of
farms, quintas, and plantations, a league in every direction, all highly
cultivated. The town is large, well-built, and thriving, with a population
of 5,000 souls ; it does a good trade in hides and wool, and there are some
flour mills in the neighborhood. There is a fine church in the plaza,
attended by Rev. Jos6 Amoretti and the Rev. Mr Curran ; the latter is the
Irish pastor, and has a congregation of 2,500 in this partido, besides the
Irish settlers of Guardia Monte and Las Flores, who are also under his
charge . There are fifty good shops, some good inns, coffee-houses, billiard-
rooms, a resident doctor and an apothecary, and 206 rateable houses : of
these latter the best are those of Cascallares, Nogucra, Caminos, Barrera,
Bastarretche, Arevalo, Varela, Villafafle, Pificro, Portuso, Casavalle,
Melendez, Zavala, Olaso, Zamudio, Velarde, Salinas, Solano, Rodriguez,
and Suarez, aH valued over $100,000; there are also three English
house-holders, Cornfoot, Wright, and Morgan; and two shops much
frequented by English residents, viz., Terence, Moore's, and Nandin Sons,
the latter being the Standard agency. The works have been commenced
of the branch.railway from Merlo (12 leagues), which will place Lobos
within four hours' journey of Buenos Ayres: the cost of the line is
estimated at £180,000 sterling, or £5,000 per mile. Lobos is distant six
leagues from CaAueJas, seven from Guardia Monte, and five from Bio
Salado. It may be considered one of the prettiest and most thriving
towns in the province It was founded in 1803 by an estanciero named
Jos6 Salgado, who built a chapel to our Lady of Carmel on his land, for the
accommodation of his neighbours, 141 in number, and in the following
year Bishop Lue made it a parish, under the care of Rev. Garcia Miranda.
There was an old fort called Lobos, 1 4 leagues further south. The present
o
108
THE S0UXH-WESTER5 PARTIDOS.
title of the town is San Salvador de Lobos. Justice of Peace, Don Jos*
Maria Viilafafte; Post-master, Don Juan M. Garranza; Municipality, six
niembers ; Municipal revenue, §300,000.
The following arc the principal estancias: —
Name.
Cascallares, family,
Arevalo, do.
Gutierrez, do.
Casavalle, do.
Ruiz, do.
Burgos, do.
ViftaVes, ....
M. Acosta, ....
Casey & Co.,
D. Livingstone,
Villalva,
Frias,
Villegas, ....
Villoldo, ....
Urquiola, ....
fuentes, ....
Haldonado, • . .
Gallo, ....
Mrs. Comfoot,
Meoquin, ....
Piflero, ....
M. Murphy, ....
Colaso, family,
Bivas, • • • • .
M. Geoghegan,
tJnzu*, ....
Zelis, ....
Rojas, family,
Arenillas, ....
Ciieza, ....
8. Leagued
3f
.. 21
2
2
.. 3i
.. 2i
2
.. li
li
14
... Mi
.. If
t
i
i
i
*
i
Name.
S. Leagues.
Acevedofstmily,
.... \
Rodriguez, family,
.... ^
James Murphy,
.... V
Ter. Moore, ....
.... i
John Lawler,
.... ^
Villasante, ....
.... T
Harilaos
.... ♦
Ramirez, ....
.... ^
Dias, ....
.... T
Baca, family.
.... -J-
Cepeda, family,
1
Almaraz, ....
.... -^
Ponce, ....
.... T
Leiva, ....
.... -ff-
Fredes, ....
.... j^
Guerrero, ....
.... -J-
Marcos Paz, ....
I
Riso,
.... ^
Bosales, ....
.... ■#
Fernandez, ....
.... It
Guerra, ....
.... T
J. Acosta, ....
.... 7
Varela, family,
.... f
Patrick O'Neill,
Hernandez, ....
.... ^
Ordoftez, ....
.... T
Torres,
• ^ . . 'y
Gallegos,
.... X
Solano, ....
.... "W
Atencio, ....
i
GiMrdia Monk.
Situate 19 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 74 square
leagues, and comprises 97 estancias, of which the P'^i^^i^^'jt^lf ^"^OOqIc
GUARDIA MOISTE.
lOti
Name.
8. Leagaes.
Name.
g. Leagues.
Juan Terrcro,
15
Nieves . . . .
i
Frederick Terrero,
3
Basualdo
i
Videla Dorna,
Hi
Bernard Killimed
, ... i
Urquida, ....
8
M. Hogao,
David Dillon,
.... 2i
Galindez, . . . .
La Rosa, ....
2
Huertas, . . . .
M. Russell,
li
James Craig,
Farias,
M
Cobos,
Rojas, family,
.... H
Tim. KllUmed,
Ferreyra, do.
1
Fredes,
Lopez, do.
.... li
Garcia, . . . .
W.M^Clymont,
.... li
Edward Moran,
W.P.Boyd;....
1
M'Loughlin,
Fras. Brady,
1
Muldowney, . • . .
'Rosas, ....
1
EgaQa, . . . .
Ruiz, family^
1
Galvan, . . . .
Gonsalez, family,
J
Harzano,
Monies, ....
i
Mr. Kenny,
David Lyail,
1
Galderoa, ...
Espinosa, family.
ii
Aguirre, . . . .
Gomez, ....
I
Zelarayan, . . .
Amarillo, family.
i
Cordoba,
John Malcolm,
i
Mosquera, . . .
Campos, ....
i
P. J. Guillen,
John White,
i
P. Martin, . . .
Villalba,
i
The partido (s bounded on the N. by Cafluelas and Lobos, on the W. and
S. by the Rio Salado, and on the £. by Hanchos. It derives its name from
the number of (cmontes)) or plantations seen on ail sides, and is also well
watered by the Rio Salado and numerous large lagoons. The camps yield
excellent pasture for sheep, but in some places the poisonous ((romerillan
is found, which, however, the sheep of these estancias will not eat. Water
is found at a short depth, and the lagoons of Encadenadas, Monte, Perdices,
Juncal, Maypu, and Tabla, never run dry even in the hottest seasons.
More than half the partido is in the hands of three families ; the Terreros,
Urquiolas, and Videla Dorna's, and the foreign estancierosown about one-
sixth. The lands of Videla Dorna stretch eastward from the town of
Guardia Monte, as ftir as John Hannah's estancia, near Ranchos : they also
extend southward to the Desplayada lagoon on ^^^n, R^*^^ uS^@\^o5l^^
1 10 THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS.
Terrero estate occupies the whole country S. E. of the Encadeuadas lakes,
as far as the Salado. Urquiola's estancia is N.W. of Guardia Monte, on the
borders of Lobos ; David Dillon and P. Martin are in the midst of the lakes;
Russell and M*Clymont are on the Arroyo Totoral, north of the town, and
the smaller estancias of Riiiimed and Craig are in the same direction.
Mr. Boyd's place of Alto Bedondo is two leagues N.E. of the town, just
before reaching the estancias of Farias and La Bosa. The lands of Lopez,
Gomez, and Ferreyra lie S.W of the town reaching to the Salado ; those of
Hogan, Nieves, and Bodriguez are totheK.W. ; and those of White and
Galvan on the borders of Caftuelas. The number of our countrymen in
this partido exceeds 1 ,000, and those of them who belong to the Irish
congregation are visited by Bev. James Curran from Lobos. The stock
returns are— 30,864 cows, 24,705 horses, 12,042 fine sheep, 1,050,221
mcstiza sheep, and 8,200 creole sheep ; being an average of 400 cows, 300
horses, and 15,000 sheep per square league* The land is valued at
$500,000 per league. Total valuation 30,000,000, against 17,000,000 in
1862. Coutribucion tax, §120,000. Population returns — 3,427 Argen-
tines, 366 English, 216 French, 130 Italians, 198 Spaniards, 17 Germans,
77 various, and .1 Indian; total, 4,432. There are 73 houses and 1,124
ranches, includiug 36 pulperias ; 6 Alcaldes,. 21 tenientes, 14 police, and
512 National Guards. It was in this partido that Bosas passed his earlj
years, breaking-iu wild horses on the estancia now belonging to Mr. Beid.
The Gauchos of ths district have always been reputed lawless, but there
has been no outrage within the past year.
Agriculture is increasing, and there are about 20,000 acres under
tillage : the principal chacras are —
Name.
Cundras.
Name.
Cnadras.
Mr. K^nny, ....
.... 2i0
J. Giraldez,
30
Michael Furlong,
30
Peter Craig,
90
William Lookup,
30
M. Minondo,
60
There is a good deal
of wheat, maize, clover, and
vegetables raised.
principally in the vicinity of the toi
»vn. There are
162
chacras in the
district, eighty of these have already been sold, sixty-seven are rented,
and the remaining fifteen are yet vacant. These chacras are sold by the
Municipality at the rate of $200 per cuadra (say £50 sterling for 140 acreS,
for ever) ; they are situate close to the village, on the north and west.
Guardia del Monte is a small village of 770 inhabitants, with a church,
school, prison, twenty-five shops, and sixty-eight rateable houses : of these
latter the best belong to Lecea, Larosa, Bastro, Calderon, Mosquera, Arata,
Terrero, San Miguel, Sosa, Mencequez, Pinel, Martinez, and Obrego, valued
GUARDIA MONTE. Ill
from $50,000 upwards. The place is dedicated to St. Michael, and was
founded in 1744, when the southern frontier line was drawn from
Chascomus to Monte, Navarro, and Luxan. The principal shop-keeper is
Don Feliciano Lecca, who is also agent for the Standard, The new church
cost $800,000, which was defrayed partly by the Municipality and partly
by subscription, the Provincial Government giving $80,000 ; among the most
liberal subscribers were the Scotch and otlier Protestant residents. The
new school-house cost $300,000, the Government also giving $80,000. It
is proposed to build a priest's house. Municipal hall, &c., to improve the
look of the village, which is exceedingly dreary and wild : the houses are
very scattered, and the place has made Utile progress for 125 years. The
state-school is attended by 45 girls and 3 4 boys, and there is a private school
at which 93 females are educated.
Guardia del Monte is distant 9 leagues from Banchos, 1 1 from Jeppener
Station, 3 from the nearest point of the Salado, and 6 from Terrero's bridge
over the same river. Justice of Peace, Dr. Manuel Qcantos ; Post-master,
Don Feliciano Lerea; Curate, Rev. Joaquin Viera; Municipality, six
members ; Municipal revenue, $500,000.
Saladillo.
Situate 33 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 200 square
leagues, a large portion of which is public land.
This is a frontier partido, extending S.W. from the Arroyo Saladillo to the
Indian territory. It is bounded on the N. by the Saladillo, on the W. by
25 de Mayo and the Indian country, on the S. by the Arroyo Las Flores,
and on the E. by the lakes of the Bio Salado, which are formed by the
confluence of the Saladillo and Las Flores. The central districts of the
partido are watered by the rivers above-mentioned, and on the frontier
side we find Lakes Potrillo, Verdosa and Yallimanca, besides the arroyos
which feed same, and numberless small lagoons. Ten years ago it was
completely Indian territory, and although still much exposed to inroads of
the savages the .partido is making some progress : the total valuation in
1862 was only 6,000,000, now it exceeds 13,000,000. There are few
foreign estancieros, yet the number of our countrymen engaged in sheep
and cattle mostly on rented land, is estimatedat 500. The largest estancias
is that of Messrs. Toledo, Galindez, and Atncha, between the Cafiada del
Vigilante and a place called Tres Bonetes on the Las Flores river. The
lands of Decoud and Bedoya also cover a large tract of country, lying
between the Laguna Los Amigos and the above-namejl river. Further
112
THE SOUTH-WESTER!!! PARTIDOS.
cast is the Atucba estancia, near Lake Cardalito, and adjoiniog this is the
Estancia Argentina with six small lagoons. EI Paraiso is the property of
Martin Hardoy, which reaches north to the Saladillo, and has also several
lagoons. La Fortuna is th^ name of Cazon's estancia, and this as well as
Varcla's and Barrera's lie between the village and river of Saladillo ; Bazan
and Butler are nearer to the village. Rodriguez is situate on Lake Pot rillo,
and southward are the lands of Aguilera, Segundo, Villafaile, Zapiola, and
Pereyra, till reaching the river Las Fiores. TheCarranza estancia extends
along the Arroyo Pantanoso, in direction of the frontier. About seven
leagues S.W. of the village of Saladillo is Fort Arevalo, and in its vicinity
are the estanciasof Leraan, Estanel, Albert^ Piftero, and Roberts. Between
the fort and the present frontier we meet the following settlers — Mendez,
Serantes, and Acosta. A league beyond the last named estancia is Fort
Vallimanca, close to the lagoon of the same name : it is on the land of
Don Mariano Unzue. The principal estancias are —
Name.
S. Leagues
Name.
S. LMgaes.
Toledo,
. m
Sra. Castro, ....
6
M. Hardoy,
■ n
Pereyra, ....
1
J. Bedoya, ... *
6
Villafafle,
1
J. Cazon,
6
L. Albert, . . . .
6
A. Cascallares,
1
Mendez, ....
.... 3i
Ferreyra, family,
>i
Frias, ....
li
Figueroa,
i
Caldevia, ....
3
Barrera,
10
Atucha, family,
7
Justo,
6
Hernandez, ....
1
Carranza, family,
12
M.V.Paz, ....
1
Segundo,
1
M. Cascallares,
1
fiazan, ....
1
Mena, ....
I
P. Roberts,
H
J.M.Paz,
i.
Estanel, «...
i
Refort,
.... li
John Connor,
3
Bodciguez, family,
... 3i
T. Varela,
n
Cazue, family, .
4
Thomas Cormack, . • . ,
2
Sra Acosta, ....
6
Casavalle, .... . . . ,
2
Zapiola, ....
1
Decoud&Co., •..,
8i
Lemau,
1
Rojas,
1
PiQero,
... ^
Bosales,
i
Serantes
... 3i
Mosqueira,
i
Arenilla, ....
1
Butler, .... ....
H
«La Argentina,)*
3
Aguilera, .... ....
5
Digitized I:
,yG0QQk
SALiDILLO, 113
The frontier runs southward from this fort eight leagues east-south-
east to Fort Estomba, beyond the river Las Fiores, and thence due
south seven leagues, to Fort Estomba, -within a league of the new town of
Tapalquen. The frontier runs N. from Fort Vallimanca, seven leagues, to
Fort Cruz de Guerra, which is eight leagues S.W. of the town of 25 de
Mayo, and nearly the same distance S.E. of Nueve de Julio. The only
estancias outside the frontier of Saladillo are those of Castro, Justo,
Caldcira, and John Connor : our countryman is in the heart of the Indian
territory, being eighteen leagues S.W. of the village of Saladillo, and five
beyond Fort Vallimanca. This partido is about twenty-five leagues long,
from the Salado to the desert, and eight leagues wide from the Arroyo
Saladillo to Las Flojes river. The returns of stock are— 177,402 cows,
28,372 horses, 5, I2i fine sheep, 1,002,478 mestiza sheep, 19,812 creole
sheep, and 1 ,848 pigs ; being an average of 900 cows, 150 horses, and 5,000
sheep per square league. The land is valued at $160,000 to $240,000 per
league. Contribucion tax, $52,000. Population— 4,620 Argentines, 330
Spaniards, 247 English, 241 French, 244 Italians, 18 Germans, 4 Indians,
42 various; total, 5,746. There are 18 houses and 898 ranches, including
18 pulperias: 6 alcaldes, 2i tenientes, 14 police, and 1,180 iNational
tiuards.
The new town of Saladillo as yet counts only twenty houses, the best of
which are those of Lese and Atusar, valued at $40,000 each. The place is
in its infancy, and the state school has not yet been established ; neither is
there any municipality, although the municipal revenue amounts to
$220,000. A space of four square leagues around the town has been
marked out for chacras, which will probably be ceded gratis to settlers.
The Justice of Peace is Don Maximo Cal)ral, who also acts as postmaster ;
Curate, Rev. Marcial Elia. Close to the town are two lagoons, called Las
Ovejas and Bustamante. The department takes its name from the Arroyo
Saladillo, which rises near the frontier, at Lake Potrillo, and falls into the
Bio Salado, after a course of nearly thirty leagues eastward.
Saladillo is 10 leagues S. of the Bio Salado, 8 S.E. of 25 de Mayo, 13
JM.W. of the town of Las Fiores, 16 i\. of Tapalqu6n, and 14 N.E. of Fort
Vallimanca.
Las Fiores,
This district, which is 190 square leagues in extent, is divided from
Hancbos and Guardia del Monte by the Biver Salado ; the Arroyo de la«{g
HH ^ ^
Hi THE SOUTri-WEStERN PARTIOOS.
Flores bounds it on the N.W., and divides it from the district of Saladillo ;
the arrojos Azui and Gualichu bound it on the S.E., dividing it from the
. di£trict of Rauch ; on the S.W. it is bounded by the districts of Azul and
Tapalquen.
The town was founded in 1857, and laid out on the same plan as
Chivilcoy, the streets are thirty yards wide. The present population of the
town is estimated at 2,300, that of the whole district is about 9,000. 1 ,330
foreigners reside here, of these, 150 are British subjects, 12 Germans,
8 Americans, 308 Frenchmen, 3iO Italians. 330 Spaniards, and 122 from
other countries.
The town is situated 8 leagues outside the river Salado, 38 leagues from
Buenos Ayres, and 21 leagues from Jeppener station, on the Southern
Railway. A splendid bridge, probably one of the best in the country, spans
the river Salado in this district. A branch of the Southern Railway from
Jeppener station to this bridge has been rauch talked of. There is a
splendid circular race coarse, in the suburbs, sixteen squares (2,100 yards)
in circumference ; this race-course has a treble fence of wire and posts, a
stated for tlie stewards, and a straight course, five squares long, laid out
across the field for those who prefer trying the mettle of their steeds in u
straight line. There are two schools, attended by sixty boys and fifty g jrls.
The church is small, but a new one is about to be built, which will cost
close on $1,000,000: one of our countrymen, xMr. Kelly, is member and
secretary of the building committee, and Mr. Hunt is the architect. The
cemetery is one of the largest and neatest in the country districts.
Las Flores has one judge, six municipal members," one notary public,
six alcaldes, thirty tenientes, one constable of police, and fourteen
policemen. There are twenty extensive dry goods and grocery stores in
the town, one very good liote^, three second , class hotels, one Tery
extensive hardware store, one timber yard, two flour mills, three bakers^
two confectioners' shops, two barbers' shops, six carpenters' shops, two
blacksmiths' shops, four brick-kilns, fourteen bricklayers, one sitversmith,
one saddler, four tailor shops, two painters, nine bootmakers' shops, five
butchers' shopS; two tinsmiths, one post-offlce. A mail coath plies
between Las Flores and Buenos Ayres every third day, passing through
Guardia del Monte, Gatiuelas, and Moron on the western route, and by
Terrero's bridge to Jeppener station on the southern route. The coach to
Tapalquen calls at Las Flores in transit. The only qualified medical
practitioner and apothecary in the district is Mr. D. C.Kelly.
The quintas and chacras that surround the town are all surveyed ; the
chacras consist of twenty -five squares of ground, aboat 100 acres, and
LAS FLORKS.
115
may be purchased out and out for about 75. sterling per acre.* There are
20 i estancias in the district — these vary in size from half a league to ten
leagues. The principal foreign estate owners in the district are : — Messrs.
White, Robson; D. C. Kelly, Manson, Gebbie, Mason, Beckford, Brown,
Foster, Luitcher, Seeber, Mullcr, Schinarsow, and Wehmayer. Mr. Solanet
has a graseria and a press for baling wool on his establishment. Mr.
Musgrave has also a graseria, and an apparatus to dip sheep so as to prevent
or cure scab. Mr. Gebbie and Mr. Shannon are about putting up boilers to
render down fat sheep. Mr. Chas has an extensivee stablishraent, wherein
he breeds rams. The Messrs. Amadeo, Yan Praet, Elizalde, Eamirez, Paz,
Rojas, Galindez, and
Portug
uez, are owners of eitens
ive estates in
this district.
The official returns of'property are
• ,
•
Name.
JS
Iieaj^aea.
Name.
8. Lengnes.
Ramirez, family,
• . . .
14
Baranda, family.
.... li
M. V. Paz, ....
....
4
G. Manson, ....
1
Van Pract,
. * . •
6t
Chaves, family.
1
Elizalde, ....
....
3
Otero, ....
i
H. Solanet, ....
....
3i
Dantas,
i
Rosas, family,
....
7
Lopez,
i
Chas,
• . • •
n
Jfanso, ....
i
Peredo, ....
....
H
Tudui7,
i
RoJas, ....
....
3
Araarillo,
i
Aguilera, ....
....
li
Wehmayer, ....
i
Aiftadeo, ....
. . • •
H
San Miguel,
....■ i
Jas. White,
....
2
Marquez, family,
li
Bedoya,
....
2
Pedrosa, ....
i
Galindez, ....
....
2
Gorchs, ....
%
Cascallares, ....
....
1
Tobias Enz,
Angenelo, ....
....
Barcel6, ....
Acosta, family,
....
If
C. Luitcheir,
11
.... I ^
J. Brown,
....
Utrern, ....
F. Foster,
....
Zelarayan, ....
Benavidcz, ....
....
Santillan,
li
Domecq, ....
, . , •
J. Portugues,
Gallardo, ....
....
Dominguez, ....
Gutierrez, ....
. . . .*
Landavaro, ....
Cabo,
....
Martinez, family, ^.^,,,;^,',^CdMe
Sosa, family,
Seebers, ....
1 o
D. C. Kelly,
• • . •
. .
Fernandez, family
HH2
.... li
IIG
THE •SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIOOS.
Nam^.
S. I^eaguea.
Name.
Ancina, ' ....
i
Robinson, . . . .
Fonda, ....
.... • i
Branet,
Farias,
i
B. Lerdon, . . .
tcNucve de Julio, »
.... lij
F. Lecca,
Gcbbie Bros.,
1
Coronel, family,
C. Soianct
1
Angli,
Frcdes,
li
Lozano,
Villa,
1
Almada,
Sosa, family,
1
E.sponda,
Valladares,
2
Preciado,
Bareda,
1
Grais,
^Alvarez,
1
Luduefla, ....
Bomero, family.
H
• Fuenles,
Johu Belford,
I
Miranda,
Ortiz,
.... li
M. Schmarsow,
Arauz, famih,
H
Gadea,
Diaz, ....
1
Edward Muller,
Leagaeji.
i
i
f
1
I
i
i
i
X
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
f The land is \alucd at $150,000 to $260,000 per square league. TotaV
valuation 38,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. This partido is well
suited for beginners about to embark in sheep-farming.
The present value of good land is $iOO,000 per square league: all the
grazing land of the district is in private hands, with the exception of some
few small lots of marshy ground. The district is stocked with 128,700
head of black cattle, 48,000 marcs and horses, 210 mules and asses, close
on 2,000,000 sheep, and 1,280 pigs, being an average of 600 cows, 250
hors?s, and 10,000 sheep per square league. There are 1,630 houses in
the town and district. There were 560 carts registered during the year;
it is probable there are another hundred not registered. The Slunicipal
income is about $200,000 per annum. There were 112 persons married
(luring the past year, and 460 children baptized The annual average
mortality is about 150; 35 per cent, of these are infants under one year,
"\%irK*h may be attributed to bad nursing; 14 per cent, of the children
between the ages of ond and three also perish ; this shows that nearly 50
per cent, of the entire mortality takes place in children uuder three years
of age. While Mr. Powell, the Protestant clergyman, resided in this
country he occasionally officiated in the district; Mr. Gebbie, the Presby-
terii^n clergyman, pays the district an occasional visit. The number of
«guias» (permits) to export fat stQck and other produce from Las Flores
amounted to 650 during the past year. Contribucion tax, $160,000.
TAPALQUEN.
\{l
We recommend strangers who visit this partido to call upon Mr. Daiiie
C. Kelly Avho resides in the town, and who is always ready and willing to
afford every useful information about the place. The lands are good,
open, and cheap, and many chances offering in this district, not to be
found elsewhere.
Las Flores is the head or presidential town of an electoral section, com-
posed of five districts or partidos. The commander, major, and staff of the
16th cavalry regiment reside in this town. The Porvenir Life Insurance
Company has an agency in Las Flores, the Justice of Peace, Parish Priest,
and many others have taken out policies; Mr. D. C. Kelly is agent to this
company, he is also agent to the Standard, Tribuna, and Boletin Oficlal
newspapers. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel V. Paz ; Postmaster, Don
Manuel W. Ceballos; Curate, Rev, Pedro Ferraris.
fapalquen.
Situate 48 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 200 square
leagues, and comprises the following estancias : —
Name.
S. leagues.
Name.
S. Leagues
Balcarce,
... 14
Palaeio,
I*
J.B. Pefia,
... 12 •
Dantiarg,
i
Lezama,
3
Ponce, ....
i
Pereyra, ....
... 3i
S.Rosas,
6
Sosa, ....
... 2i
Spigno,
6
Jnrado, family,
... n
Larroy,
3
Patiuo,
... H
V. Casares,
. n
Ayrala, ....
i
Belem & Co.,
. 2i
Wavarro,
i
Bedoya,
4
Barrionovo,
6
J. Portugues,
. U
Barrdre, ....
3
Posse,
3
Urbina, ....
H
' Belgrano, family.
. 11
Goya, . • • •
... ^
P. Sheridan,
13
Eua,
2
M.Ruiz,
5
Gonsalez,
... H
Ricabarra, family,
5
Labarrudo, ....
1
Silva, do.
. 20
Carrizo, . • . .
1
Zabala, do.
r^^Ak]
This partido is as yet only half reclaimed from the IndiiflSf ^htn
118 THE S0UTH-WESTER3I PAETIDOS.
oae-fourth of the population. It extends about twentj-six leagues in
length, from the borders of Flores on the N.E. to the Sierra deQuiUalanquea
on the S.W., and is about eight leagues wide, from the Las Flores river to
the borders of Azul. Nearly one-half the partido is outside the frontier
line, which runs through the new town of Tapalqu^n, southwards eighteen
leagues to Fort Pcrdido, in the hills beyond Azul, and northwards to Fort
Esperanza, on the River Las Flores. The partido takes its name from the
Arroyo de Tapalqu6n, which traverses almost the whole district and is lost
in the desert : the word is of Indian origin, as are all of similar termination
given to the lakes and hills of the south. Sheridan's estancia is one of the
largest, and adjoins Fort Esperanza, on the River Las Flores. The lands of
Portugues, Bedoya, Goya, and Posse are eastward, on the borders of Las
Flores partido. San Nicolas is the name of Pefia's large possessions, which
comprise, moreover, two large lagoons, called Zancas and Plumagujers.
The estmcia of Casares is at Lake Las Toscas, four leagues south of
Sheridan's. On the frontier between Fort Esperanza and Tapalqu6n arc
settled Ruiz, Jurado, Balcarce, and Belen. The Balcarce territory is over
iix leagues long, and comprises Fort Estomba and the site marked out for
the new town of Tapalqu6u. The old Indian settlement called Tapera de
Tapalquen was situate four leagues further south, on the arroyo of same
name, in the midst of the immense territory now belonging to the heirs of
Juan M. Silva, which covers 200 square miles and is studded with lagoons :
these lands are outside Fort Pereda in the department of Azul. The lands
of Rosas, Ricabarra, Barrionovo, and Spigno are within a radius of five
leagues from Fort Estomba; but further out are Barr^re, Larroy, and
Belgrano, who are only five leagues inside the hill range or Sierra of
Quillalanqu^n : this range is fourteen leagues S.W. of Tapalquen, and
Sixty-two S.W. of Buenos Ayres city. The partido has made little
progress, owing to the dread of Indians. The lands inside of the frontier
are valued at $100,000 to $140,000 per square league, but those of
Balcarce and others out outside settlers are assessed only at $66,000
per league.
The returns of stock are— 163,386 cows, 16,43i horses, 260,086 mestiza
sheep, 49,220 Creole sheep, and 1,180 pigs ; being an average of 800 cows,
80 horses, *aud 1300 sheep per square league. Land valuation 6,000,000,
against 3,000,000 in 1862. Contribuciontax, $24,000. Population— 1,506
Argentines, 535 Indians, 3 i Spaniards, 21 Italians, 10 French, 6 English,
5 Germans, 26 various ; total, 2,1 43. There are 8 houses and 320 ranchos,
including 11 pulperias: 6 alcaldes, 2i, tenientes, 12 police, and 350
National Guards. ^.g.,^^, .^ GoOgk
TJU?AtQUEIf. 119
The new town of Tapalquen counts as yet only two shops and a few
houses: it is situate on the Arroyo Tapalquen, about a league S.E. of Fort
Estomba, 9 leagues^, of Azul, 17 S.W. of Las Flores, 16 S. of Saladillo,
and 20 S. of 25 de Mayo. It is in the straight line from Buenos Ay^es to
Bahia Blanca, and may almost be considered as half-way, being 67 leagues
N.E. of pahia Blanca. As yet there are no municipality, church, or schools
in the partido. Some lots have been devoted for chacras, in an area of
four square leagues around the new town ; there are forty-five chacras
under cultivation. Justice of Peace, Don Jos6 M. Jurado, who also acts as
postmaster.
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120
THE SOCTflERN PAIITIDOS.
CHAP. VIII.
SOUTHERN PARTIDOS.
BARRAGES TO DOLORES.
SoiUh Barracas.
Situate one league south of Buenos Ayres, being separated from the citj
by the Arroyo de Eiachuelo, has an area of four square leagues, mostly-
occupied by saladeros, quintas and chacras, as already described in pages
92—98 of Section B.
The saladeros are as follows : —
Name.
Value.
Name.
Value.
J. Panthou, . • . .
§600,000
Seaillosa's heirs,
... 8&50,000
Berizo (Lezica's),
450,000
Soler,
. . . 400,000
Sra. Senillosa, . . . .
500,000
Cambaceres,
... 1,100,000
Santamaria & Llambf,
1,200,000
Herrera &Baudriz, .
. . . 750,000
Saavedra & Armstrong,
600,000
Muiloa,
. . . 650,000
Anderson,
367,000
Cobo,
. . . 300,000
Tiie slaughter for the present season (1869) is estimated at 500,000 oxen
and mares, exclusive of sheep. The wages paid last year to saladero peons
exceeded $ 1 2,000,000, say £ 100,000 sterling. Most of the inhabitants are
engaged in this business, and they are chiefly Basques or Italians. 30QIc
SOUTH BARRACAS. 121
There are 211 chacras, covering 13,000 acres of tillage. The priacipal
chacras and quintas are those of — Gimenez, Demarchi, Ugalde, Piuero, "
Nuftez, Torres, Pazos, Ortiz, Sanders, Solier, Mackinlay, Munita, Carbonct
Ramirez, Fernandez, Canadi, Liuatz, Suarez, Uzman, Drover, Sansat,
Fecber,^Nuriez, Castro, Luton, and Zufliga, all valued over $100,000.
.The partido is bounded on the N. and W. by the Riachuelo, otherwise
called the Rio de Matanzas, on the S. by the Lomas de Zamora, and on the
E. by the River Plate, The land is generally low and swampy, but
produces good meadow crops. There are no estancias ; the farming stock
is set down at — 2,787 cows, 1,958 horses, 168 fine sheep, 2,273 mestiza
sheep, 1,51 1 Creole sheep, and 2,023 pigs. Population — i,930 Argentines^
794 French, 657 Spaniards, 622 Italians, 47 Germans, 37 English, 163
various : total 7,250. There are 207 houses and 392 ranches : 5 alcaldes,
37 tenientes, 8 police, .and 372 National Guards. Property valuation
29,000,000, against 6,000,000 in 1862; Contribucion tax, $116,000.
Municipal revenue, $142,000.
Barracas is a busy and flourishing village of 5,000 inhabitants, with a
very fine church, state-schools, and 150 shops and houses. There are 280
carts in constant traffic. There are twelve private schools, at which 418
children are educated, besides 1 10 at the state-schools. In last year there
wrere 51 marriages, 436 baptisms, and 333 burials; The village is connected
with to\TO by the Boca and Southern Railways, which run twenty-eight
trains daily, each way, ^ The Artesian Well, railway-bridge, &c. have
been already noticed in Section B, Justice of Peace, Don Juan M.Nuflez ;
Curate, Rev. Sebastian Lozano ; Post-master, Don Manuel Esteves.
Lomas de Zamora,
Situate three leagues south of Buenos Ayres,has an area of eleven square
leagues, and comprises seventeen estancias and eighty-one chacras : of the
former the principal are —
Kame.
8. Leagues.
Name.
8. Leag:uc8.
John Fair, . , . .
.... \i
Acosta,
....
.... i
Ortega, family,
.... 2
Correa,
....
.... i
Bursaco, ....
.... i
Obligado,
....
X
.... ^
Fair's estancia at Monte Grande is a very fine establishment, in the best
English style; all the lands have been fenced in, at enormous expense, and
a large portion is now dedicated to agriculture. This place is of historic
interest in the annals of our industry, for it was here that Mr^obeil^pn
122 THE SOUTHERIf PARTIDOS.
Started his Scotch colony, in 1825, the colony embracing also the adjacent
estate of Santa Catalina. Most of the leading Scotch estancieros and
capitalists of the present day began life here in the hon^prable but humble
occupation of ploughmen and farm-servants, and although the enterprise
was unsuccessful as regards its originator, it is gratifying to know that
Bobertson's colonists were an immense gain to the country, and their
names are now identified with the industry, wealth, and advancement 'of
Buenos Ayres. The estate subsequently passed into the hands of the
present enterprising owner, who pays much attention to refining the breed
of horses, cattle, and sheep. The estancia is managed by Mr
Strangers coming to the country often pay this place a visit The house is
surrounded by a large plantation or wraonte,)) which gives its name to the
estate. The land alone is assessed by Government at £10,000 sterling, and
the whole property represents a large amount of invested capital. Mr. Tair
projected a branch railway hither from Las Lomas Station, but it has not
been carried out.
The chacra of Santa Catalina, belonging to Mr. Bookey, is unrivalled in
the Biver Plate for its lawns, gardens, and plantations: it covers 206
cuadras or 900 acres, and formed the residence of Mr. Bobertson, the
gardens and plantations having been laid out by 3tr. Tweedie, who began
life as landscape gardener to a nobleman in Scotland, and died a few years
ago a respected merchant of Buenos Ayres. A few words about Robertson's
<;olonists may here be interesting. In 1825 the Government of Buenos
Ayres, being anxious to introduce habits of industry into the country^ .made
arrangements for two Scotch colonies; Mr. Beaumont was to establish one
in Entre Bios, Mr. John Parish Bobertson a second at Monte Grande. The
first, on arrival, found that the land promised them could not be obtained,
80 they had recourse to their individual abilities to make a living in the
new country. The second began favorably at Monte Grande, and the best
methods of Scotch farming were soon seen in full play on the pampas ;
several handicrafts were also successfully carried on, and the women raised
milk, butter, cheese, and eggs in large quantities, although the use of
milk and butter was then unknown in Buenos Ayres The spiritual wants
of the colonists were attended to by the late talented Bev. Dr. Brown ; and
all went well till the Brazilian war broke out. The currency of Buenos
Ayres became depreciated, disputes arose between the colonists and Mr.
Bobertson, the establishment was broken up, many bright hopes were
dispelled, and Mr. Bobertson was ruined. It is said that he had expended
4^30,000 alone on the mansion-house and ornamental plantations of Santa
Catalina: these woods contain over 2,000,000 trees, principally^^-acacia. j
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LOMAS ZAMORi 123
paradise, peachy espinillo, &c.,'aad the visitor will also find some friends of
childhood in the hawthorn, oak, beech, holly, aspen, elm, and ivj, which
are nowhere else Jo be seen in South America. The Scotch colonists did
not suffer themselves to be cast down by their reverses, but steadily turned
their attention to the business of life : some of them came into town, and,
after years of hard labor, succeeded in making handsome fortunes; the
reBt settled down to rural pursuits and became in a short time owners of
great tracts of land and countless flocks and herds. Dr. Brown resolved
also to stand by his countrymen : he took an apartment in the city to ser%e
as a chapel, and added to his slender income by teaching. Steps were soon
taken to raise funds for building a church, and Dr. Brown was sent to
England to seek aid from the Government : in this he was so successful that
an Act of Parliament was passed (6th George IV.), giving for the support of
English and Scotch churches abroad a sum equivalent to that subscribed by
the local residents, and this arrangement is still in force.
South of Santa CataUna is the Ortega cstancia, and eastward of the latter
is the Bursaco property, mostly under ludian corn ; it is traversed by the
Southern railway, and has over a thousand acres richly cultivated. The
lands of Correa are nearer to the village of Las Lomas.
Many of the chacras are of great extent, and all are covered with rich
corn-fields or meadow-rfarms, to the extent of 20^.000 acres : the
principal are —
Name.
Cuadras.
Name.
Cuadras.
Bell, .•.•
• • • •
203
ZuQiga, ....
100
Avellaneda,
• • • •
135
Lanoaeo, ....
100
Consalez,
. . • .
120
Mrs.Kidd, ....
40
Foutriel,
• • • •
120
Pldns, family, ....
142
Torres,
. . • .
100
Bay, ....
128
George Temperley,
54
Avila, ....
123
Correa,
• • • •
106
Amendeban, ....
111
Brun,
• • • •
Hi
Ferben, ....
106
Lanus,
• • • •
140
H. Pringles, ....
60
Of these the finest certainly is Mr. Temperley 's, about half a mile
beyond the Lomas station, close to the line of railway. The house and
grounds are exceedingly tr?steful, forming one of the prettiest suburban
residences about town : the property has been much enhanced in value by
the Southern railway passing through it, and Mr. Temperley has sold
numerous lots to English and American merchants who are establishing
country-houses here. On the opposite side of the railway is Mr.
Livingston's charming place, surrounded by fruit and flowej gardens.
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12i THK SOUTHERN PARTIDOS.
Nearer to the village are the properties of Green, Drabble, Grig<?, &c,'
East of the railway, in the midst of shady avenues and thickets is Mrs.
Kidd^s family hotel, an excellent house, ^vhere the traveller or invalid may
pass a week very pleasantly, with all the comforts of an English home, and
free from the bustle of the city. Messrs. Henry, Makern, and others have
recently purchased, and a new English hot(^l has been started.
The village of La Paz, more generally knoAvn as tcLas Lomas,)> is
situated on a rising ground which commands a view of the city : the air is
peculiarly fresh and bracing, and the locality reputed the most healthy
about town. The village is in its infancy, having only three shops and a
dozen houses around the church : the latt3r is a very handsome structure,
and the vista on every side is lost in green lanes and pretty quintas. There
is a good fonda near the station. The state school is attended by 50 boys
and 35 girls. IVot far from the church there is a country-house, recently
built by Marshall of Barracas. A couple of miles nearer town is tlie quinta
of Don Anacarsis Lanuz, with a fine residen.ce and plantations of lofty
poplars : the railway has made a station hard by.
The stock returns of the partido are — 3,526 cows, 1,967 horses, 12,951
fine sheep, 62,140 mestiza sheep, being an average of 500 cows, 300 horses,
and 11,000 sheep to the square league. Population — 803 Argentines,
155 French, 117 Italians, 47 English, 41 Spaniards, 38 Germans, 1 Indian,
53 various — total 1,255. There are 89 houses and 200 ranches, including
16 pulperias. There are 4 alcaldes, 16 tenientes^ and 10 police. The
land is mostly valued at $1,000 to §1,500 per cuadra. Total valuation
$16,000,000, against $3,000,000 in 1862; Contribucion tax, §64,000.
Municipality, four members; municipal revenue, $138,000. Justice of
Peace, Don Victorio Grigera ; Postmaster, Don Greporio Larios.
Lomas de Zamora is 2 leagues S. of Barracas, 2 W. of Quilmes, 4 S.E. of
Moron, 9 N.E. of Cailuclas, 6 N. of San Vicente, and 9 Jf W. of Ensenada.
San Vicente.
Situate ten leagues south of Buenos Ayres, has an area of fifty-six square
leagues, and comprises 74 estancias and 123 chacras.
This partido was one of the first wherein sheep -farming was
experimented in Buenos Ayres, and fully half its extent is owned by
foreigners. It is very thickly settled with English and Germans, who
number over a thousand, and hold some of the finest estancias in the
country. The lands are generally very low, but the grass is consider^Ip
SAN VICENTE.
125
good for fattening sheep. The principal water-courses are the affluents of
Samborombon, and there are some large lagoons in the neighbourhood of
the village of San Vicente. The partido is bounded on the N. by Quilmes
and the Loraas, on the W. by Cailuelas, and on the S. by Ranchos, and on
the E. by Ensenada and Magdalena.
The principal estancias are —
Nume.
8. Leagues.
George Bell,
.... 2
Harratt, ....
... IJ
Lopez Seco, ....
.... 2i
Udaquiola,
.... H
Saenz Pefla,
. . H
Rodriguez, ....
... i
P. Diaz,
... i
Avila, ....
... i
Quintcros, ....
... i
Casco, family,
... 1
Sanchez, ....
... 4
Diaz Velez, ....
i
Abascal, ....
... i
Gomez, ....
... 1
Barragan, family,
.... i
Barda, . . ; .
.... i
W. M'Gaw, ....
.... i
N. Nelson,
.... i
Lopez, ....
.... i
C.Galvan, ....
.... i
Robinson, ....
.... 1
Llanos, family,. .. .
... 2i
Bursaco', ....
... i
N. Buchanan, ....
.... i
Ferrari,
... 1
Wilkie,
... i
Mcrlo, family, ....
.... li
Casimir Smyth,
... *
Cambac€res, ....
.... i
Avellaneda,
. .. i
Pardo,
"... 1
Name. 8. ]
Leagues
Alvarez, family,
i
James Bell,
i
George MTarquhar,
i
Valdes,
i
William Corrales,
i
Acosta, . . . .
i
Gutierrez, . . . .
1
Quiroga,
i
Peralta,
f
D. Kenny,
i
Faulkes,
H
Mrs. Williams, ^ .. .
i
Ed. Freers,
. 1
Donselaar, family,
• i
Mrs. Daly,
. i
Avalos,
• i
Villoldo, family.
. *
John Glew,
■ i
Godoy, family,
■ i
Gonsalez, . . . ,
i
Caceres, .... . . . .
i
Campos, family, . .. .
i
N. Jordan,
. 4
George Temperley,
■ i
G. Fillan,
. i
Aguilera, ....
■ i
Arce,
i
Ferguson Bros.,
' i
Carabajal, ....
. i
Leon,
■ i
Gowland,
. 1
The Harratt estancia is another first-c7ass establishment, the late Mr.
Harratt having been one of the first (a'ong with Peter Sheridan) to devote
126
THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS.
his attention to the importation of prize sheep from Europe for the
relinement of tlie breed in this country : Harratt's mferinos are considered
^ome of the finest and best, and the stranjjer cannot do better than to pay
a visit to this famed «cabafia.)) Ou this estancia there is a good wayside
hotel known as Sutton's, where comfortable quarters may be had, and the
coimtry around affords e\cellent shooting : Mr. Bandle, the proprietor, is
very attentive to visitors.
A league south of San Vivente village is George Bell's fine estancia
called Viamont : it is intersected by an arroyo of the SanbororaBon. Mr.
Bell is one of the chief landed proprietors in the River Plate, having
numerous estancias botli in this province and the Banda Oriental ; he was
one of the Monte Grande colonists already mentioned. South-west of this
estancia is that belonging to the heirs of the late Mrs. Williams, an
industrious Irishwoman who came hither from the Queen's Co., over forty
years ago.
Glow's and Bursaco's cstanciasare near the Glew Station on the Southern
Railway ; the first his a pretty plantation around the house, the second is
mostly under grain. The lands of Nelson and Ferguson adjoin those of
Harratt, in the dii-ection of Banchos. The line of railway from Sau
Vicente to Sanborombon traverses the estancias of Freers, Donselaar,
M^Farquhar, Urdaijuiola, Wilkie,and Faulkes. Eastward of the two last
mentioned estates are those of Temperley, Daley, and Corrales, which are
watered by two arrojos which fall into the Sanburombon. Cowland
is on the borders of Ensenada, and Ferrari near the station of the
same name.
Land is valued at $400,000 per league: total valuation 22,000,000,
against 17,000,000 in 1862. Contnbucion tax, $88,001/. Stock returns—
7,693 cows, 17,173 horses, 5,450 fine sheep, I,470,49Vmestiza sheep, 956
Creole sheep; being an average of 150 cows, 300 horses, and 29,000 sheep
per square league. The amount of land under tillage is estimated at four
square leagues, or about 25,000 acres. Population — 4,0i2 Argentines, 480
English, 397 Italians, 386 Spaniards, 295 Germans, 2i8 French, 3 Indians;
total ^,030. There are 89 houses and 1,222 rahchos, including 29
pulperias. There are five alcaldes, 25 tenientes, 12 police, and 659
National Guards.
San Vicente is a poor village a league from the railway station, with
which communication is kept up by an omnibus. Formerly in wet seasons
the village was entirely cut off by «bariados» arid marshes, from all traffic
with the city. An effort has been madd to improve the place by getting up.
a number of quintas, but neither this nor even the railway has succeeded
ik
RAHCHOS. 127
in imparting the least vitality to San Vicente. There are — a church, state-
schools, seven shops, and forty-two rateable houses, the best of the latter
being those of Peter Wilch, John Freers, Peter Johnson, Parodj^ M. Borel,
Fernandez, and Iriciti, valued from $50,000 upwards, The state school is
attended bj' 25 boys and 32 girls. The Irish residents of this district are
visited by Rev. Mr. Mullady, of Chascoinus. The Scotch residents attend on
Sundays at a chapel near Robson's estancia.
Justice of Peace, Don Ramon Sotelo; Curate, Rev. Domingo Scavini ;
Postmaster, Don Carlos Sccchi ; Municipality, six members; municipal
revenue, §88,000.
San Vicente is 6| leagues south of Las Lomas, G east of Caftuelas, II
N.E. of Guardiadcl Monte, lOJ^ N. of Ranchos, and 10 W. of EnsenaJa.
Ranch OS,
Situate twenty leagues south of Buenos Ayres, had formerly an area of
' ninety square leagues, now reduced to sixty-three.
This partido was the cradle of sheepfarmidg in Bucbes Ayres, and the
industry will be for ever identified with the naq^ies of Sheridan, Hannah,
and Harratt, from whose «cubanas» are d(5scendedmostbf the refined flocks
of the north, west, and south. The lands of Ranchos are in many places
low and marshy,' and suffer at times from overlTowing of the lagoons and
arroyo, but never from drought. The partido is bounded on the N. by
San Vicente, on tHe W. by Guardia Monto, on the S. and E. by Chascomus ;
before the recent change of limits it extended southwards to the Rio Salado,
but now^ it only touches that river at the PaSO Ponce and Paso de Ram6s^
on the licpez and Villanueva estanciasi. •
The largest estancias in the distifict of Ranchos now are those of
Sheridan, Harratt, and Hannah. The breed of sheep at these estancias
was originally the same, namely, those imported from Franpe and Germany
for the Government by Rivadavia. The death of 3Ir. Sheridan in 1844,
and of Mr. Harratt in ljBi9, produced changes in the management
detrimental to the breed of their sheep, Mr» Hannah's have had the
advantage of his continuous superintendance from the beginning of 1827 to
the present day. His stock includes a flock of about 500 pure Negrete
ewe^ and a smallet number of Rambonillet, besides Bocks of pure
Merino blood, and crosses from the same With Negrete atid Rambouillet
rams. His mestira breed may be considered such in name onl^ , having
been steadily crossed with pure rams for more than forty years, vjOOQIc
128
THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS.
The principal estancias are-
Name.
S. Leagues
John Hannah, ....
.... 3i
Welchman, ....
.... H
Harratt,
.... 4
Alegre, family,
.... n
Petrona de 0.,
.... 1
Dr. Gibbings,
.... i
Cenova, ....
.... *
Pereyra,
.... i
Aguiar,
.... i
Dominguez, ....
.... i
Rivero, ....
.... i
Diaz, ....
.... i
Gerez, family,
.... *
Senillosa, ....
.... i
Bryan Thorp, ....
.... i
Cabrera, family,
.... i
W. Glennon, ....
.... i
Segrete,
.... f
ViUanueva, ...u
*.... 2
A. Lopez,
.... 2
P. Acosta, ....
.... 1
Sra. Chiclana, ....
.... 1
Figueroa, ....
.... 1
Sotuyo, family, ....
Planes, ....
Monies, ....
Pedernera, ....
Pazos, ....
Name.
Barda, family, . .
Garcia, do. . .
Balcedo,
G. Hunt,
Bernan,
F. Miller,
H. Thwaites, . .
Godoy,
Gawan,
Churruca,
F. Bnstos,
Merlo,
Aramburu,
Gilez,
Arista,
Martinez, family,
jLara, .... . .
Ramirez,
Coronel,
Pinto,
P. Videla,
Fernandez, family,
W.Purvis, ..%.
Herrera, family,
J.Pettigrew, ..
Cardenas,
Jeppener,
Leagues.
i
^
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
f
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
In this district there are now very few large estancias. The estancias
del Espartillar and Rincon deVivot, formerly the two largest in the partido.
although much nearer to the town of Ranchos than to Chascomus, have
been annexed to the last named district.
At the Espartillar the experiment is being carried out of a cross between
the half Lincoln ewes and the French merino breed Monchamp. The latter
are not only very long in staple, but also of fine quality. Their wool is
used in the manufacture of ccmuslin de laine» and other fabrics. It is
hoped the experiment will succeed. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ GoOgk
RA^cnos. 129
There are also, it is believed, some pure Negretii breed at Mr. Jeppcner's
estaucia, and also some small atropillasM of the same class at a few other
estancias in the district.
From the xMtamirano station to Ranchos the camps are very low. Don
Pedro Alegre's estancia is about midway, with a handsome azotea house,
gardens, and farm-yard. Several peach mounts are seen at short distances^
on both sides of the road, and after an hour's drive we come up to Dr.
Gibbings' estancia. Tlie doctor's residence displays a confused style of
architecture, having been originally after the manner of an English cottage,
and is flanked by castellated brick buildings, A^hich have a very pretty
effect in the perspective. But the quinta is the great object of attraction,
consisting of a garden well-stocked with every kind of European fruit, and
a peach mount Itiidout in avenues lined with poplars: in the garden are
more than a hundred choice plants from San Jose, the gift of General
Urqniza; and the avenues of the monte bear the names of Mitre, Drago,
Rawson, Fernandez, &c., which they received when the late President and
his Ministers visited the place in 1 86 i . The whole place is very neatly kepty
and is said to contain over a million trees and plants. This estancia was-
first settled by the ill-fated Planes, who sold it to Gervacio Rosas, and the-
latter disposed of it to Mr. John Duffy, now of Carmen dc Areco, from whoi»
it passed to its present hospitable owner. It was first called Los Ombues,
from a group of those trees near the house, but now it is called Estancia de
Humayta, since the capture of the great Paraguayan fortress by the Allies.
Dr. Gibbings gives grand festivities every Xew Year, winch are attended
by numbers of fareigners and neighbors, from town and country.
A league S.W. of Dr. Gibbings' estancia is that of the Planes family, and
this place is remarkable for a terrible tragedy enacted there some fifteen
years ago. Three leagues further S.W. we reach El Carmen, the splendid
estate of Mr. Hannah. The new estancia-house is visible a long way,
almost surrounded with trees. It is, perhaps, the finest edifi^'e in the
camp, and cost over £10,000 sterling. There are spacious «galponcs,))
where the line sheep are kept and sundry prize rams of various breeds.
Mr. Hannah was the only person who got a silver medal at Paris for
River Plate wools. The dip for curing sheep of the scab is constructed
after the model of 3Ir. Musgrave's (formerly of Australia, now of Las Floros),
and 2,000 sheep can be well dipped in half-a-day. Near the estancia-house
is a little graveyard, where there are two head-stones to the memory of tlie
Dr. Sheridan and Mr. Robert Hannah.
Within a league of Ranchos is the estancia of Figueroa and Gowland :^the
place was settled by a native in 182i, who bought an area ^J^K^f^
130 THE S0UTHKR5 PARTIDOS.
square for $30 s.: he sold it to Mr. Gotland in 1849 for $200,000,
iucluding a rancho and 8,000 sheep. Since then it has received much
improvement : the cstancia-house where Seftor Figjieroa resides Fs a
comfortable dwelling, surrounded by large «galpones» with French tile
roofs, and the m liole is sheltered by a plantation of peaches and poplars.
Seilor Figueroa is partner w ith Mr. GoAvland, and Justice of Peace for the
district. The estancia of Henry Thwaites lies between Wanchos and the
railway, adjacent to the other estates of the family: there is a modern
azotca house, with a large quinta for fruit and vegn^tablcs.
The Jeppcncr estancia is reputed one of tke best for its size in the
province. It is half a league from the station of that name, eastward, and
the handsome galpon, with its turrit, rises above the surrounding planta-
tion. The proprietor endeavored to establish a town close to the railway
station, but it seems he set too high a value on the ground . Mr. J( ppener
is now a barraqueio in Barracas.
Three leagues west of Jeppcner station is the famous Sheridan estancia^
called Los Galponcs, now the property of Mrs. Welchman. It was this
Jadys father, Peter Sheridan, who began sheepfarming in this country,
endowing lUie os Vy res with a staple that now gives i::> ,000,000 sterling
p r annum. The Sheridan estates were the subject of long litigation, until
a settlement was arrived at, a few years ago. On this estancia the Jockey
Cliil) held its mcetin^^: last September: the silver cup was presented by the
(jovernment of Buenos Ayres, and won by Mr. Tomkinson's Gauchito.
The land is valued at $350,000 per square league. Total valuation,
Si:>, 000,000; Contribueion ta\, $02,000. Stock returns— 32,2 IG cows,
■i8,I07 horses, 28,3IG fine sheep, l,086,i85 mestiza sheep, and 1,700
swine, being an average of 500 cows, 450 horses, and 18,000 sheep per
square league. Population — 5,428 i4rgentines, 359 English, 459 French,
707 Spaniards, 321 Italians, 102 Germans, 212 various—total 7,588. There
are 117 houses and 1,104 ranches, including 63 pulperias. There are 7
alcaldes, 29 tenientes, 14 police, and 721 ?iational Guards. Agriculture is
generally in a backward state; there are 380 chacras and quuitas, but
mostly plantations of peaches and poplars.
Rauchos is a town in ruins. You pass through streets or lanes with
roofless houses, at distances of thirty to fifty yards, showing that the place
wa8 once populous. In the plaza the same desolation reigns: a mud
rancho used as a church, with one bell broken and another cracked ; a fonda
terminating a row of empty tenements ; an almacen acting as post-olDlice ;
and au arch for running «sortija,». which seems a sarcasm upon the dreary
sepulchral aspect of the town — voild tout! If you extend your wandering
through the teaaatless streets, you come upon a decent house that belonged
RA^'CHOS. 131
to the late Dr. Sheridan, a quinta of Settor Gasalias, a bakery, a carpenter's
shop, and a boot-shop, the last sign of vitality in this aDeserted Village. »
It is a marvel how these three artisans can even make out a living. The
natives themselves say — aThe place can no longer be called Banchos, but
Las Tumbas.» The ruin of Ranchos is generally ascribed to some Munici-
pality or Justice of Peace, a few years ago, who suffered the cattle of the
estaucias to overrun the quintas and ruin the quinteros. A grand new
church, capable of holding twice the population of the whole partido, is
now being completed. In 1863 there were 51 rateable houses, of which
only two were valued over §50,000, viz. : those of Rosas and Eborall :
since then the ruin has increased, and nothing can revive the place but the
expected branch from the Southern Railway to the Bio Salado.
Ranchos was formerly an outpost an the Indian frontier, and you still
see at the street-corners some of the old pieces of cannon used at that time.
The streets are wholly impassable in rainy weather, and the quantity of dogs
ts unprecedented. The population is nominally set down at 1,600, but
cannot reach half that figure ; even on Sunday mornings you hardly see a
dozen people at Mass or in the streets. The shop of the late Dr. Sheridan
is now held by Mr. Thomas Nuttall ; Seilor Campero's shop in the Old plaza
is also well supplied, and the proprietor is most polite and attentive to
strangers. Don Juan Garat runs a«diligencia)> daily to and from Altamirano
station, placing Ranchos within five hours' journey of the city: the
<cdiligencia» fare is 030. The Irish residents, about 300 in number, belong
to the district of Chascomus, which is at present their parish. The
^tate schools are attended by 40 boys and 45 girls.
Ranchos is five leagues west of Chascomus, and there intervenes a large
lagoon called Lake Vitel : it is four leagues N.K.E. of Paso Ramos, on the
Rio Salado ; and four S.^V. of Altamirano station, it is nine east of Guardia
Monrte, ten and a-half south of San Vicente, and seventeen S.W. of
Magdalena.
Justice, Don Bernab^ Figueroa; Curate, Rev. Andres Sefr9no; Post-
^master, R. A. Flores. Municipality, sIk members; Uanicipai revenue^
8112,000.
Oiascomvs.
Situate twenty-four leagues south of Buenos Ay res, his an area of 18ft
square leagues, and comprises 118 estancias.
n2
132
THE SOCTHBnN PARTIDOS.
The prlucipal estaucias arc :
—
Xam«. S.
Miguens, family, ....
LeHRuef.
13
Ncwtou, ....
Gandara, .... ....
5
5
Juan Fernaadez, ....
Calderon, family,
George Bell,
Casalins, family,
Girado, family, ....
Plowes,
Jaime, family, ....
Cabrera, ....
6
3
.4
H
1
Casco, .... ....
Anchorena,
Zabala, .... ....
San Martin, .... ....
1
1
1
1
W.SheddoD
1
Gomez, .... ....
Diaz, family,
Peter Brown, ....
1*
1
Aranda, .... ....
i
Acosta, ....
h
Agttero,
Machado, family, ....
1
iMontenegro,
Patrick Wallace,
1
Echaguc, ....
Fonzalida, ....
1
Perez,
Eobcrt ^WUde,
Aumada,
Rarragan, ....
i
Pereyra . . . •
Kuffman, .... ....
George Shiel, ....
John Y. Coe, ....
Doval, — . ....
Leguisamon,. .. . ....
Frias, .... ....
3
Name.
p. Lcagnrs.
Huergo, ....
.... «j
Ochoa, ....
.... <j
Alsina, ....
2
Lacombe,
«i
Lezama, ....
2J -
Tbwaites, ....
2f
Nieto, ....
\k
Acevedo,
.... 1
J. No well, ....
.... 1
Monasterio, ....
If
N. Jobnston,
.... 1
Llano.s, ....
If
Hernandez,
f
Gonsalia, ....
.... 1
Garcilazo, ....
.... 1
Joseph Green,
.... 1
James Dods, ....
.... 1
John Dods, ....
i
Altamirano, ....
i
Arroyo, ....
i
Ayala, ....
^
Mrs. MuUady,
i
Paez, family,
1
Robert Wilson,
i
Rincon, ....
i
Portela, ....
i
P.Maxwell,
i
JohnFessey,. .. .
i
Soria, family,
i
Zeballos, ....
i
Joseph Graham,
1
Duarte, ....
i
Vivot,
10
John fair, ....
6
Alvarez, family.
..:. 2i
R. Buchanan,
i
A. Benavente, . f^ r^r^Jii
AlexaaderBell,^^^^^'^^^^.^.VfOOg(
GHASCOMUS.
133
Name.
8. LeagiiM.
Name.
8. Leagues.
TJarbosa, . . • .
.... • t
Luduena, family,
f
James Burnet,
I
Ledesraa, ....
i
Correa, ....
i
Molina, ....
H
Caos, ....
i
Pifteyro, family,
i
Castro, ....
i
Sosa, family, ....
i
Camblon, ....
i
Arrascaete, ....
i
Escribano,
f
Hugh Rolison,
i
Jose rernandez,
1
Avellaneda, . . . .
i
Ferrari, familj,
1
Gqdoy,
i
Facia, ....
i
Isaurralde, ....
*
Figueroa,
i
Guevara,
1
.... 4
Gadea,
1
Villaverde,
i
Guerreros, ....
..:. i
Arrola,
1
.... ^
Laifto, ....
i
Tlie partido is bounded on the east and north by the Sanborombon river,
'On the west by Ranches, and on the south by the Rio Salado. A decree has
been passed to form a new partido called Biedma in the district near the
coast of the River Plate, and contained between the Sanborombon and the
Salado rivers. This will strip Chascomus of the large estancias of Miguens,
Ochoa, Alsina, Calderon, and Casalins, and the smaller ones of Huergo,
Pineyro, Escribano, Godoy, and Fretes. There is no partidoin the province
with a more abundant water supply than Chascomus : besides the two rivers
which form its boundaries north and south, there are a dozen large lakes,
viz.: Vitel, Chis-chis, Chascomus, Las Jlulas, Esquivel, Encadenadas, Burro,
Averias, Hinojal, Saladas, Tablilla, and Abrasadera, and numberless
smaller ones. Until recently the estancia of John Fair and Vivot belonged
to the partido of Ranches.
The Espartillar, Mr. Fair's splendid estate, is about equi-distant from
Ranches and Cliascomus, l)ing about four leagues S.S.E. of the former
town. The estancia is visible ubout two leagues after leaving Ranches, and
presently you see a acordonw of tasteful puestos; there are forty-Lwo of
these puestos on the estancia, all well built, with shingle roof, and some of
them having fine plantations. Here and there you see a few clumps of
esparta grass, which gives its name to tiie estancia. The house is pleasantly
situated on high ground, overlooking a lagoon and arroyo. The out-oDiccs
are sheltered by venerable acacia trees, and an immense tract of fenced
and arable hind extends south and east. Tlie first settler on the Espartillar
was one Barati, over fifty years ago, and Mr. Reid still shows two old pieccj^e
lOf cannoa used in that time against the Indians. The estancia comprises
134 THE SOUTHERN PABTIDOS.
more than six leagues, say 40,000 acres English, aad the stock about
85,000 sheep, 3,000 horned cattle, besides Horses, &c. la one flock are
seen 300 fine sheep, Lincolns and their cross with other breeds. The
Durham half-bred cows form a respectable «rodeo,» while the half-bred
horses are really beautiful, these last are descended from two prize stallions
(one cost 1,000 guineas) imported by Mr. Fair. Of the forty-two puestos
some are held by irishmen, others by Scotchmen, Basques, natives, &c.
Mr. Fair has offered a rancho to be kept apart as a Catholic chapel, for the
use of the Iri^h neighbors, but as yet this liberal offer has not been acted
on. The Espartillar is considered one of the finest and best arranged
establishments in the country, under the experienced management of Mr.
Patrick Vans Agnew licid : it w as formerly owned by Mr. Ludlam : it is said
that Mr. Fair was offered X30,000 for the estate and refused it. The Fair
family have other large estates at Monte Grande and iu the Banda Oriental.
Between the Espartillar and tlie Rincon de Rocha, on the Rio Salado, is
the extensive Vivot estancia ; it has several lagoons, and the proprietor is a
deputy in the Provincial Legislature. The estancias. of Kuffman and
Thwaites lie between Chascomus and Ranchos, on the borders of Lake
Yitel. Further north is the Gandara estancia, traversed by the Southern
Railway, which has a station on the ground : the Gandara residence is a
line, modern building, surrounded by a peach mount with alleys of lofty
poplars. The proprietor put up a agraseriaw near the station, the nuichinery
being by Marsliall of Barracas ; but the Avorks are now suspended. East-
ward are the lands of Diaz, Bell, Buchanan, and Benavente; and near the
Sanborombon we find the estancias of Newton and other English proprietors.
Newton's is a large and valuable property, well stocked with superior
sheep and cattle : the wool is pressed and baled on the estancia, and
shipped direct to England for the owner's account. The estancia-house
has a line monte and chacra, supplied with the choicest fruits and products :
there is also a part of the establishment set apart for rearing silk-worms,
which are doing remarkably well, and the samples of silk are excellent.
The late Mr. Richard Newton, sen., was an active and enterprising English-
man, who accumulated a splendid fortune : he was a leading member of
the Argentine Rural Association, and alwnvs in favor of works of progress :
he essayed unsuccessfully to make an Artesian Avell on the estancia : the
family possess various otiier fine estates on both sides of the River Plate.
The Newton estancia goes by the name of Santa Maria, and is prettily
situated on a rising ground above the Sanborombon.
Next>to Newton's is Santa Catalina, which has been sub-divided betwe#lc
Robert Wilson, Hugh Robson, Mullady, and Hernandez. The late Mrs.
CHASCOiMUS. 135
Hulladj built a chapel oa her land for the use of her Irish neighbors.
Next comes the ancient estancia of Las Mulas, sub-divided between Mr. S.
Newton, Ninian Johnston, J. Graham, Peter Brown, W, Shields, J. Bell, '
W. Bell, U. Buchanan, uhd the old estancia-house is occnpied by Mr.
William Dodd. To the south of Las Mulas is ihe Adela estancia, belonging
to 3Ir. George Bell, at present held by Mr. John Dodd ; and further south
is the Estancia de Esperanza, the property of Ochoa & Co. of Buenos Ayres.
All these camps arc usually covered with luxuriant pasturage, and wethers
for the ugraj-erias» fetch ^:}0 a head.
The lands of DonJuanNepomuceno Fernandez occupy all the intermediate
country between the town of Chascomusaud the Encadcnadas lakes. The
Anchorcna property is at the Averias lagoon, occupied by Mr. William Ball,
and Mr. Plowcs has two fine estates, one east of Las 3Iulas, the other
between Chischis and the Rio Salado : one of these belonged to the late
Mr. James CarHiy. South-east of Chischis are the estancias of Lacombe
and Lezama,and nearer the Salado we find Girado, Montenegro and Aumada.
The Biucon dc Biedma comprises many large estates Those of Messrs.
Nicanor and Jose Miguens extend from the Sauborombon to the Salado, and
touch the coast of the River Plate at the place where the two first-naiticd
rivers empty their waters, only half a league apart. The Loma Alta, a little
more inland, is the property of the Calderon family; and then come the
estancias of Casalins and El Tigre ; the latter is the property of Mrs. Palemofi
Huergo, and is chiefly rented out to Irishmen. The Piueyro estancias are
between El Tigre and Chascomus. '
The land in this partido is valued at §300,000 to $^00,000 per square
league. Total value 8G'^0*^»^^^» against §30,000,000 in 1801.
Contribucion tax $256,000. This partido possesses the largest and most
flourishing Scotch community in the country; they have a chapel at the
Estancia Adela, besides another near Jeppener station, the first being
attended by the Rev. Mr. Ferguson, the second by the Rev. Mr.Gebbie. The
total English population is over 3,000, and the partido is increasing in value
and population since the opening of the Southern Railway. Stock returns —
55,700 cows, 7 1,570 horses, 27,000, fine sheep, 1,155,700 mestiza sheep,
5,700 Creole sheep, and 1,900 swine; being an average of 300 cows, 450
horses, and 12,000 sheep per square league. There are 40) houses and 987
ranches, including" 125 pulperias. Population — 9,115 Argentines, 2,701
French. l,GOi English, 1,910 Spaniards, 97 Italians, 37 Germans, 2 Indians,
121 various; total 15,590. There are 8 alcaldes, 30 tenientcs, H police,
and 900 National Guards. Agriculture is making much progress, the various
sheep-farmers cultivating chacras for raising vegetables and fruit: ther<^lg
136 THE SOUTHERTf PARTIDOS.
are in all 162 chacras, with an aggregate of about 26,000 acres under
tillage.
Chascomus is delightfully situated on the margin of a large lake, and
within four hours' journey of town, by railway. In • picturesque aspect,
commercial importance, and rapid and progressive vitality, it can stand
comparison with the best towns in the province, and is the centre of one of
the most valuable of our sheep-farming districts. Its annual exports exceed
§30,000,000, (£240,000 sterling,) and the town boasts a handsome church
and jilaza, besides a small theatre. On one side of the Plaza is the Cabildo
arca<le, containing the Juzgado and public schools. The parish cura is
Padre Ampognani, and the Rev. 3Ir. Ferguson is Scotch pastor. The latter
gentleman is much esteemed by all classes of foreigners, and has resided
here some years. The State-schools are very commodious, and the average
attendance is sixt) -five bo> s and ninety girls. There was formerly an English
school, which ought to pay well. Previous to the cholera Dr. Crosbic
practised here, but he fell a victim to the epidemic, and there is now but
one native physician. There are two apothecaries, some good inns, and 42
shops. There are 105 rateable houses, the best being those of Casco,
Machado, Aristeguin, Casagemas. Duticr, Arias, Alelay, Echave, Galy,
Matieu, Olivares, Pcreyra, Pereda, Unanue, Gom^z, Gorostlaga, Casalins,
Bufit, Gandara, and Newton, valued from $100,000 upwards. The best
houses of business are those of Auld & Pettigrew, King, Zavala, and Milano ;
the first-named are the Standard agents. There is also a good photographer,
Mr. Ferguson. But the great ornament of Chascomus is the Great Southern
Railway terminu*;, a handsome building finished in English stjle, A>ith
spacious waiting-rooms, offices, &c. : all the materials are from the locality,
the laguna providing excellent sand, and the Camarones estancias (belong-
ing toSefior xVgucro) having superior lime. Some years ago the Saladohad
a great 'creciente,' and tlie steamer Yerba ascended to Chascomus. Clo^e
to the lagoon is a handsome two-story mansion, built by Mr. Crawford,
who made the railway, now owned by Mr. Armstrong : there is a charming
view from the 'mirador,' especially when the lake is high. Chascomus was
diade a frontier post in 17 44, but its progress was very slow till the opening
of the Southern Railway, in 18G5. It seems destined to outstrip all the
other camp towns in importance, except perhaps Chi\'ilcoy. The Irish
Sisters of Mercy have established a branch-house here for the education of
the Irish female children of the surrounding districts. There are several
'graserias for melting down sheep, and the freight of grease to the city
forms a great feature in the goods traffic of the railw ay . ^ j
Chascomus is 4 J leagues S.W. of the Sanborombon, 6"^^l'E? ^MlPQtW^
DOLORES. 137
Salado, 4^^ E.S.E. of Ranches, and 11 W. of the Rincon de Biedraa, where it
touches the coast of the River Plate : it is 17 leagues N.N.W. of Dolores.
Justice of Peace, Don Pedro Roca ; Postmaster, Mr. Miles King ; Munici-
pality, six members; municipal revenue, §320,000. Irish pastor, Rev'
Thomas Mullady.
Dolores,
Situate 39 leagues S.S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has aji area of 82 square
leagues, and comprises 223 estancias, of which the following are the
principal:-
Name.
Leagnus.
Name.
S. Leagura.
Parravicini, . . .
17
Agiiero & Co . ,
3
Anchorena, ....
10
Juarez,
1
Juan Diaz, ....
3J
White,
i
Escribauo,
n
.Nadal,
1
Bello,
2
Ainaral,
*
Zapiola,
I
Roldaii,
i
S. Palomeque,
I '
Pinero, ....
li
Peredo,
1
Cordoba ,
H
Almiron, ....
#
3
I-uro,
H
Madariaga,
2
Palma,
i
R. Palomeque,
H
The purtido is boimded on tlie north by the new partidoof Castelli, which
intervenes between Dolores and the Rio Salado, on the west by Vecino, on
the south byMonsalvo, and on the east by Anchorena's lands of the Tordillo,
Avhich reach down to the sea-board. There are numerous lagoons and
>vatcr courses; and S.E. of the town of Dolores is the forest of Tordillo,
which covers a superficies of nearly ten square leagues. The Canada del
Vecino traverses the partido from east to west. The principal lakes arc
the Tordillo, Las Cruces, Hinojal, Vecino, Salomon, Los Rengos, and
Durazno. The Parravicini estancias extend southwards from the municipal
radius of Dolores to the borders of Jlonsalvo, being traversed for the entire
length by^the highroad to El More; in many parts the land is low and
marsliy, especially in the vicinity of the Cailada del Vecino. The Anchorena
estates occupy the whole countiy eastward of Dolores down to the sea, about
six leagues in a straight line ; they arc mostly in the partido of Tordillo,
and cover more than thirty square leagues ; the northern boundar)^ being
the Arroyo dc Yivoras, while soutlnvard they stretch along the coast
towards the lands of Gilmour and Gibson at the Tuyu. Digitized by GoOqIc
138 THE SOUTHER?! PAUTIDOS.
The estaucias of Diaz aud C. White lie between the forest of Tordillo and
valley of the Yecino; and almost iu the same neighborhood are the lands of
Eello, Escribano, Kadal, Palomequc andZapiola. Near the laguna Lirapia,
close to the town, is the estancia of Pedro Juarez, aud westward is that of
Aguero & Co., near the Falcon lagoon. North of Dolores we meet the lands
of Madariaga, Ahniron, Pifiero, Cordoba and Luro; and the smaller proper-
tics of Roldan and Amaral bound the municipal chacras westward. The
ofllcial lists show only three English proprietors, Yates, Langrave and
White — but the total English population numbers nearly 200. The land is
valued at $:]50,000 per square league : total valuation §10,000,000, against
§13,000,000 in 1801. Stork returns— 01,905 cows, i9,588 horses, 1,902
line sheep, 255J80 mestizashccp, 99,870 Creole sheep, and 2,262 swine;
being an average of 900 cows, 300 horses, and 5,500 sheep to the square
league. Population — ^6,090 Argentines, 478 French, 307 Italians, 317
Spaniards, 31 Germans, 12 English, 75 India.is, 90 various; total 7,iOC.
Tliere are 5i houses and 881 ranohos, including 87 pulpcrias. There are
1 i alcaldes. 50 tenieutes, 10 police, and 053 National Guards. Agriculture
is making some progress ; there arc 21 1 chacras, covering more than 20,000
acres.
Dolores has probably progressed as rapidly as any other town in the
province. In 185i there were only two diligences %ionthly plying with
Buenos Ayres : according to a recent calculation there are forty diligences,
carrying 800 passengers to and fro monthly. The town has a tasteful and
busy look, with a fine pyramid in the plaza, bearing a bust of Castelli, who
made the first fruitless revolution against the tyrant Rosas : the pyramid is
surrounded by rows of iron seats. The new church erected by Padre
Erransquin and the Municipality, at an outlay of $1,000,000 (£8,000) has
96 pillars supporting the nave and four porticos 'a cuatro vientos.' The
adjoining block has been purchased for the construction of a Recoba, to
contain the schools and the Juzgado. The boys' school is conducted by Mr.
Abrines, a native of Gibraltar, who is highly spoken of: it counts 120 boys;
the girls' school has about half that number. There is a small theatre at
present open, a bank under Seilor JJrumnel, and a service of 'serenes' to
protect the town by night.
The population of the *city,' as it is ollicially styled, is putdownat '*,800
souls, and it is the great emporium of trade in the southern districts. There
was originally an intention to prolong the Southern Railway from Chascomus
to Dolores, but this now seems doubtful, and tliere is a counter-project to
run a line from Altamirano station to Ranchos, then crossing the Rio Salado
near Paso de Pojice, and striking into the heart of the southern camroin t
igi ize y g
i>oLoiiES. I3£r
the direction of Azul. At present the diligences run daily from Chascomus
to Dolores, although theSaladoat times offers great 'difficulties both to the
passengers and goods traffic. Dolores has a Criminal Tribunal with jurisdic-
tion OA'er all the southern districts :- also a branch of the Provincial Hank
for this and all the neighboring partidos.
Dolores is 17 leagues S.S.E. of Chascomus, and 8 leagues S. of the
passes called Postrera and Villar, on the Bio Salado : it is about 7 W. of the
seaboard, 4 N. of the Canada del Vecino, 12 W.N.W. of Tuyii, 2 W. of the
forest of TordilU), 27 N.N.W. of Mar Chiquita, 32 N.K. of Tandil, and 38
E.N.E of Azul.
Justice of Peace, Don Lino Lagos ; Postmaster, Don Norberto Fresco ;
Blunicipality, si\ members: municipal revenue, $Hi,000. Standard
agency at the diligence office.
Thoi'e is no Irish pastor as yet named for this partido,the district belongs-
to the clergyman in Chascomus. This partido is fully capable of maintain-
ing double the stock at present on it, but the estaneieros ask sudi high
rents for their lands that immense districts are merely occupied by rodeos-
of horned cattle and mares.
Digitized' by
Google
140 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
--cx^;^ A^^^ .^^x^^^^
CHAP. IX.
SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
QUILMES TO M.\R CHlQUITA.
Quilmes,
Situate tliree leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has au area of twenty-five
square leagues, nearly half of which is under tillage, and the rest is taken
up by twenty-one estancias.
In the suburban districts of Buenos xVyres there is none more picturesque
or better worth visiting than Quilmes. The traveller who makes an
excursion tliither is agreeably surprised at the valuable establishments,
agricultural progress, and woodland scenery of the former settlement of
the Quilmes Indians.
The road from Barracas passes through four leagues of most unpromising
<iountry, until we reach the quinta lately belonging to Seftor Saavedra, a
Chilian resident, where the plantations begin, and a short distance further
is the chacra of the Alamos. The proprietor, Mr. Latham, is well known
for his splendid breed of English and mestizo horses: equally remvkable
is his model farm, which is kept in beautiful order and furnished with the
most improved English implements of agriculture. The cabafta of Messrs.
Latham ct Beuavente possesses the finest breed of Rambouillet sheep iu
this Continent.
Bella Vista, the property of Mr. John Clarke, stands on a rising ground,
and from the rairador is obtained a charming view, which takes in the
Lomas dc Zamora, the city, and the waters of La Plata. The peach moun^lg
Ql'ILMES. 141
evtends for more than half a league, but its chief value is the timber, not
the fruit. The hotel here is»very convenient for travellers, and comprises
also a first-rate drapery, grocery, and tailor's shop. Ten minutes' ride
brings us to the hospitable mansion of 3Ir. Clarke, which is built and fitted
up with the comfortable elegance of a country-seat in England. Mr.
Clarke is among the oldest residents in this neighborhood, and has some
interesting stories about former times. Quilmes takes its name from a
tribe of Indians of the Upper Provinces, who waged implacable though
unsuccessful war to the Spanish settlers and were brought hither in captivity
to form a 'Ueduction,' about the middle of the last century. The race
gradualh died out and now the last descendant of the Quilmes lives on a plot
of ground near the village, surrounded by the genius of foreign industry
and civilization. After the decay of this tribe, in 1824, its lands were
divided by Government into 'sitlos' of 500 yards by 300, and trees and
agriculture soon sprang up. Mr. Clarke remembers when the place was
perfectly bare, and points with pride to the moutes and green lanes planted
by him, some with his own hand, which have so wonderfully converted the
aspect of the neighborhood. Bosas injured the chacras much by making
them winter-quarters for his cavalry, but at present there is no part of the
Argentine Republic so closely bordering on the condition of English farms.
The meadows of Mr. Clarke's farm extend' down to the banks of the River
Plate, and are fringed \>ith hedges as at home. iNo fewer than 80 bullocks,
are constantly employed in carting bay and alfalfa, but the wretched state
of the road to town is a great impediment to traffic.
The region of chacras, ueatly fenced and cultivated, extends far beyond
Quilmes, to the river of Conchitas, and if the traveller crosses to the other
side, he will find the journey well repaid by a visit to Santo Domingo, the
cstancia of Mr. John Davidson, close to which also is the neat farm-house of
Mr. Peter Davidson.
Santo Domingo originally belonged to the Dominican friars, from whose
hands it passed into those of the Pintos family, and the latter sold it to its
present owner. The plantations are very fine, and the estancia house and
out-ofiices built by 3Ir. Davidson are in the best English style. In the
garden are some pmbii trees of great age and size, and here on the last day
of every year a great gathering of Scotch and English neighbors takes place
to welcome in the New Year with rejoicing and festivities. Mr. Davidson
also holds races twice a year on his estancia. He is most hospitable to
visitors, and has been one of the principal benefactors to the Scotch church,
situate between this place and San Vicente, >vhich is attended by the Rev.
Mr.Gebbic anda large Presbyterian congregation. The estancia of Dod
n i2 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS*
'I.eoaardoPereyra probably has not its equal in this province in point of
arrangement, a spacious house and beautiful garden, large galpones of
biick mortar, extensive alfalfares, and all the requisites for an extensire
breeding establishment for the best English «criasi) of cattle, sheep, and
iiorses. It Mould afford a treat to any lover of fine animals to see his
stock : any one of his breeds are worth the gallop to see ; but he has not
one but many : the Durham, a short-horned cattle ; the Hereford cattle,
the Cleveland bay, a carriage horse breed : the Southdown, the Shropshire-
down, the Leicester sheep, vtc. Mr<^ Pereyra is one of the wealthiest men
in the River Plate.
The department of Quilmes, though having a comparatively small
quantify of sheep or cattle reared in it, is second to none in the variety
and quality of the superior breeds. Besides those of Don Leonardo
Peyrcra, a fine herd of short-horned c?»ttle is to be found at Mr. Davidson's
cstaucia ; the thorough-bred English horse and his progeny, Durham bull
and herd of cows, at Mr. Latham^s chacra ; and last, but not least, the
finest flocks of Rambouillet pure and mestiza slieep in the country, at the
ram-breeding establishment of Don Manuel Benavente and Mr. Latham.
The Hocks of mestiza (Ram^ ouillct) ewes of these two gentlemen averaged
*,)l% per fleece this last spring shearing, and commanded the highest price
of the market during the past two seasons, viz.: §120 to $125 per arroba;
ten months old pure ram lambs, 18tt and IS^tl wool; and pure Rambouillet
rams of twojears and upwards averaging d^ arrobas weight. There is no
native gentleman in the country to A\hom greater credit is due than to Don
Manuel Benavente, whose admirable management and exceeding great caro
«nd attention has enabled him to take the position of the most successful
breeder of the Rambouillet sheep in Buenos Ayres.
The property returns show the following estancias : —
Name.
8.
Leagues.
Name.
S. L*agiKs.
Leonardo Pereyra,
4
Sanchez,
family,
.... -J
John Davidson,
2
Islas,
Geo. Bell, ....
1^
Baranda,
.... 1
Ponce Leon, ....
H
Young,
Arrascaeta, ....
Boyd,
D. Hudson, . . . •
Arroyo,
Sra. Cruz, ....
Mrs. Watson,
J. Brown,
Godoy, family,
T. Robson,
Negrete,
....
W. Yates, ....
i
Islas,
....
F. Black, ....
i
Diaz,
• • • n
aitizecTtfVVjiOClQl
Xhe land is exceedingly valuable, and estimated from $500,000 op vo
QUILMES.
143
$2,000,000 per square league. Our countrymen own more than half the
partido, and their properties, including the chacra farms, are some of the
linest ill the country. George Bell's lands are partly in this partido, but
principally in tliat of Ensenada. John Davidson's lie along the Conchitas
river, down to its mouth on the sea-board. Robson^s and Brown's are
inland, between the Scotch chapel «nd tlie Southern Railway, and Mrs.
Yates is near the coast. The line estancia of Leonardo Pereyra occupies
almost the whole coast-liuc from the Conchitas river to the borders of
Ensenada : it is watered, moreover, by the Arroyo del Pa to, and traversed for
its whole length by the telegraph r,ires connecting Punta Lara with Buenos
Ayres. There are 473 chacras, covering 00,000 acres ; the principal are —
Xaine.
Cundras.
Name.
Cuadms
John Clark,
665
Cabrera,
55
Garay, family,
272
Sra. Hornos,
55
Izaj^uirre,. ... ....
535
Molino,
80
Wilfred Latham,
200
Arzc, family.
59
Yillavicensio,
55
Correa, ....
22
.hian N. Fernandez, ....
110
Duraftona,
22
Lavalle,
55
Forteti, ....
37
Perez, family, ....
64
Gcnsaicz, ....
:{4
Basigalnp, . ...
45
Leine, ....
35
3lrs. M. Clark,
12
Lerdon, ....
22
Escobar,
80
Lagarde, . . .
45
A. Fernandez,
34
Jose Montes,
45
Ilerrera,
22
Quevedo, ....
34
Segovia, .... . . . i
176
M. Saavedra,
22
Berasategui,
90
Yillaneuva,
22
Mrs. Barton, ....
73
Henry Thompson,
22
Cabral, ....
135
R. Maciel,
22
Gutierrez, family, ....
lO'i
N. Martinez,
34
Llanes, .... . .'. .
90
M. Mosqueira,
22
Parejas,
50
C. Seanz Valientc,
34
Baranda,
26
Senillosa, ....
34
Diaz,
25
C. Drayer,
112
Faria,
22
Ramos, ....
16
Giraldes,
22
Miralle^, family,
34
Carmen,
12
Otamendi,
45
M. Barragan, ....
90
Quineli,
34
M. Benavente, ....
90
Thos. Sandes,
: . . . 34
V.Baragan, ....
90
Tobal, . . -^iaitizea b^GoO^^
Bernaly
67
B. Ricart, ....
43
m THK SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. *
These chacras, as already stated, arc in the highest state of cultivation,
being mostly in the hands of Basques and-Italians -..there is also a sprinkliajf
of emigrants from the Canary Islands.
The returns of stock for the partido are— 12,896 cows, 7,729 horses,
2,G70 fine sheep, 505,990 mcstlza sheep, and 788 swine ; being an average
of 800 cows, 500 horses, and 30,000 sheep per square league. Populat on,
4089 Argentines, 35i Italians, 3i6 Spaniards, 26i Trench, 98 English, 82
Germans, 53 various : total 5,286. There are 438 houses and 582 ranclios,
including 59 pulperias. There are 5 alcaldes, 40 tenientes and 10 police.
The town of Quilmes is picturesquely situated on a high ground overlook-
ing the River Plate, with the roadstead and city of Buenos Ayres in the
distance. The environs and quintas are very pretty, and the Humber of
suburban residences >vill be much increased as soon as the Boca and
Ensenada Railway be prolonged this far. The quintas of Bilbao, Montes de
Oca, Carman, and other families from the city are *ery neat and elegant.
The population numbers* about 2,500 souls, and there are thirty-six rateable
houses, the best being those of Amocdo, Arriola, Baranda, Costa, Casares^
John Clark, Gonsalez, Haspjru, Lerdon, Martinez, Rodriguez, Romagosa^
and Sanchez, valued from §50,000 upwards. The town boasts a fine church
and state-school, and eleven good shops : among the latter are those of
Gonsalez, Bros., Libourt, Garcia, Sonyth, Iturralde and Martin Puig. There
are two hotels, those of Manuel Joval and Felix Riso, both in the plaza ;
besides several b'.lliard-rooms. There are two bakeries, belonging ta
Bernard Lerdou and Ramond Baymundo. There are three blacksmiths, two
of whom are in Callo Comercio, and the third, Don Diego Asperu, lives,
near the plaza. Dr. Wilde has a good medical practice, and the a|K)thecary
is Senor Matienzo, who lives in Calle Municipal. There is a hair-dresser's
shop in tlie plaza. In fine weather three diligences ply to and from the
city, viz : those of Joval, Riso, and Cordoba ; but in wet seasons all commu-
nication is suspended, owing to the dreadful state of the roads. The
coaches from town may be taken either at the Calle Potosi, or at the
confectionary in South Barracas. From Quilmes to the coast there is a road
called Calle Municipal, and passengers for LtTs Lomas will find abridge over
the Arroyo de Gaete near the Atalaya. A new cemetery has been laid out
near the farm of Doila Isabel de Escobar. The tradt) of Quilmes is very
limited, owing to the bad state of the roads^ and there is little opening fur
a new-coiner, either as «chacrero)> or in any other occupation. Among the
foreign settlers not already mentioned are Whcatly, Westhoven, Graham,
Roche, Bernard, and some others. The state-schools are attended by fifty
boys and seventy-one girls. ^.^.^.^^^ .^ GoOgk
E!«(SENADA.
145
<2uilmes is situate 2^ leagues E. of Lomas de Zamora, 6^ N.W. of
Easenada, 7 IN.N.E.of San Vicente, and 12 N.E. of Cafluelas. The partido
is bounded on the N.E. by the River Plate, on the N.W. by Barracas, on the
W. by the Lomas deZamora, and on the S. and S.E. by Ensenada.
Justice of Peace, Don Manuel Benavente ; Curate, Rev. Pablo M. Pardo ;
Postmaster, Don Pedro Riso ; Standard agent, Mr. James Bernard ; Munici-
pality, five members; Municipal revenue, §500,000.
Ensenada.
Situate ten leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of fifty square
leagues, and comprises seventy-five estancias, of which the following are
the principal : —
Name.
S liOagnes.
Melchor PiQero,
2i
Irasla,
21
Arana, family, . . . .
• 2i
Videla,
ii
Huerta, family,
>i
Martinez, ....
i
Sanchez, .... . . . .
i
Larosa,
■i
Sueldo,
i
Demaria,
i
Mrs. Taylor,
I
Dibur,
i
H. Rummell,
i
Suasnaval, family,
i
1\ Olidcn,
• i
G. Harch,
i
A. Chaves, ...
2
Wm. Cooper,
1
Merlo, family, ...
• 3i
Gomez,
1
F. Rodriguez,
1
0. Piflero,
i
Godoy,
4
Name.
S. Leagaof.
Garcia,
4
Vilasin,
i
Egeni,
i
Sra. G6mez,
i
t. Ponce, ....
i
Macedos, ....
i
Thos. Mahon,
i
C. Piaero,
1
E Rodriguez,
1
Geo. Bell,
6
Ponce Leon,
2
Oldendorff,
li
Villoldo,
i
Llanos,
i
Bilcher,
i
Selamendi,
i
J. G. Taylor,
i
Torres,
t
H.Gilbert,
i
Torrena,
i
C. Cos,
i
Garraghan, .|
Digitized by
Goolle
KK
146 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
This partido extCDds along the coak for more than si\ leagues, from the
borders of Quihnes to those of Magdalena, and its depth inland is about
eight leagues till reaching the partido of San Vicente. The land along the
coast is mostly low and marshy, but the district is in general considered well
adapted for sheep. It is watered by the Arroyos Sauce, Pescado, Santiago,
Gato, Bodriguez, Palomas, and Pereyra. The boundaries are N.E. the
Eiver Plate, N.W. Quilmes, S.W. San Vicente, and S.E. Magdalena. Some
of the best estmcias belong to foreigneis, and the partido is so thickly
settled t!iat there is no room for new-comers.
One of the finest establishments in South America is the Oldendorff
estancia, and this claims a lengthened notice in our pages. The Estanciii
Santa Maria was established by Ernest Oldendorff in the year 1 861 . It is
about one league from the Donselaar railway station, and eleven leagues
from town. The estancia is fenced in with wire on all.sides, and contains
two square leagues of prime pasture laud. The Chascomus road bisects
the estancia. The estancia house is situated about the centre of the land^
and has a fine carriage-road, nearly three-quarters of a league long, leading
from the entrance-gate. The approach to the house reminds one of a wel|-
laid-out English farm. Passing the first puesto, immense fields of wheat
and barley stretch out as far as the eye can see, then come alfalfa fields,
and as we near the house^ we hear the hum of the powerful
threshing-machine, hard at work in the vicinity of some large stacks of
wheat. Further on a chaff-cutting machine, preparing fodder for the cattle;
close to, a neat brick granary, where the peons deposit the wheat. Flocks
incorrals on all sides, cared by German shepherds, and long four-wheeled
farm- waggons passing to and fro.
There are six flocks kept it the estancia — First flock, breeding ewes»
thoroughbred Negrettis ; second flock, breeding ewes, thoroughbred
Negrettis, yearlings; third llock, breeding ewes, thoroughbred ram flock ;
foui'th flock, breeding ewes, Negrettis, Bambouillets, A No. I ; fifth flock,
breeding ewes, Negrettis, Rtmbouillets, A No. 2; sixth flock, breeding
ewes, Negretti-Bambouillet rams. •
Each flock has its shepherd and dog, and is let out into the camp every
day. All the shepherds on the estancia care tke flocks on foot. In one of
the galpous are shown the three stud Rambouillet rams imported by Mr.
Oldendorff; they are of immense size ; their fleeces average 2\% each. In
another galpon the stud Negretti:, twenty in number, fleeces from twenty-
one to twenty-five pounds each. There are fourteen sheep puestos on the
estancia . The flocks are some of the evenest and best in the Plate, and the
fleeces average ei^ht pounds in the grease ; what most attracts notice is
E5SEJIAD\. 147
the utter absence of scab. This proves Ihe truth of Mr. Oldendorff s assertiou
that scab in sheep owes its existence to sheer neglect.
The history of this splendid sheep-farm is possibly the very best proof
that wool-growing in the River Plate, under proper management, is still a
good paying business. Mr. Oldendorff, who is a German farmer by profes-
sion, having taken out his diploma in the Agricultural State College in
Wurtemburg, and having subsequently managed some of the largest farms
and stoct-brecding establishments in South Germany, founded his place here
on the strictest and most approved German agricultural principles. He
btgan by importing five Ncgretti ewes and hi3 stud rams ; subsequently he
imported eighty more Negretti ewes, and their progeny is seen in the
various classified flocks ^vhich are cared at the estancia. Nothing that
• science can afford, that experience can supply, is ^vanting on this model
farm. Mr. Oldendorfrs wool last year attracted such attention in Antwerp
that it was marked as exceptional, and could not be classified. The method
adopted by Mr. Oldendorff in his books is exclusively German — each animal
in classified, the entries made can be read only by the proprietor, who holds
the German key, perhaps the only one in South America, la 1867 Mr,
Oldendorff gave his first ram auction; the result astonished all the ram
breeders in the Plate, some of the pure thoroughbreds fetching as high as
^10,200, and averaging all round $3,535 per head, the highest ever
obtained in Buenos Ay res. All the young rams which Mr. Oldendorff
disliked offering at auction, he sold on the estancia at private sale. Seven
of the flocks at the puestos are bred witli pure thoroughbreds ; the lambs are
taken from the mothers at four and a-half months, and the young rams are
kept apart until two and a-half years old. The wool is baled on the estancia;
and close to one of the galpons is the dipping apparatus, made of brick and
Roman cement, six yards long, five feet wide, and five feet deep ; here
eight men can with ease dip 1800 sheep per day.
Looking south from the estancia-house, we see the artificial lake for the
washing of the flocks ; here the flock is made to swim through, kept out all
night, and next day driven over^a plank road that runs through the lake,
"where the men stand on eith'er sideand wash the sheep. Mne men can wash
about I, "200 sheep per day. The flocks come home in the evening, Gerraao
fashion — shepherd, with his staff and dog, first. But if the the sheep-bree(f-
ing system carried on at the establishment attracts notice, what shall we
say of the tillage department? Who in Buenos Ay res knows that but a few
hours' gallop from town there is a German estancia where hirty ploughf
are kept constantly going, sixty horses ever in harness tilling the soil, and
vast fields of wheat conta'ning 320 acres in one tract? The head farm
KK2 ^
I i8 THE SOUTB COAST PAKTIDOS.
contains six fields of forty squares each ; the second farm nine fields,
twenty-one squares each. On each farm there is a regular rotation of crops,
thus the wheat crop on the head farm is a month in advance of that of the
second farm. The principal crops are wlieat, barley, rye, and Irish horse
beans. The second farm is all under wheat. On the head farm there arc
three fields 120 squares, 480 acres under wheat. All the work on the place
is done with the best implements and machinery ; the Belgian plough has
given great satisfaction. There are fifteen at work on the farms ; they are
very cheap, costing §190 m^ in Germany, and light to work.
The thrashing machine, with shaft, is worked by three horses. As regards
the whcit-growing business, we have obtained the following statistics: —
Average crop of one square, 20 fanegas ; cost to raise and deliver in Buenos
Ayres, §52 per fanega, or $l,0i0 per square ; this includes every charge.
Avecage price of wheat, $200 per fanega, that is $4,000 per square, close on
*o00 per cent.
The crop on the cstancia last year, on thirty-eight squares, amounted to
1,000 fanegas, sold from $250 to $270 per fanega. This year's average
crop is estimated at 2,500 fanegas. Besides the price realised for the wheat
the straw is used for feeding cattle, sheep, and horses. The ground is
ploughed up in spring to let the summer sun act on the new earth. The
land is again [)loughed in April, then subsoiled, then harrowed by Scotch
iron harrows, thou rolled, and the crops sown in winter. The sowing is
doivc by a broad castor, worked by one horse and two men each, finishing
ton squares por (lay, The wheat is covered by a machine-grubber; two
liorscs and a man for abaut one and a-half squares per day. The reaping is
done by Coftin's reaping machines. There are nine of these machines on the
place: they reap about two squares each per day. The crops are carted home
in large farm waggons, brought from Germany ; there are seven on the
ostancia. The wheat is then made into stacks close to the granary, which
is a neat building, with boarded floors, and the walls lined with zinc; but
the granary is now too small, and in the galpon now building, ninety by
seventeen, there will be a loft able to hold 4,000 fanegas of wheat. The
thresing-machine cleans about seventy-five bushels per day. The chaff is
cut by machinery for fodder. The beans, barley, and rye, are for the u.se
of the farm, and the wheat is sent by rail in sacks ; there are no buyers in
the camp. Most of the seed wheat is from Germany ; it is steeped in blue
stone the night before sowing to avoid polilla, half pound to the bushel.
The advantages accruing from fencing are no longer questionable, and
although the expense is serious, the gains are more than commensurate. jTp
The Oldendorff farm contains two square leagues of land, uplou which there ^
^ E!?SE5ADA. 141)
are fourteen puestos. exclusive of the estancia-house, with its* numerous
flocks. During tiie last seven years there have been frequent droughts, Ac,
and immense loss to sheep and cattle farmers ; Mr. Oldendorff, however,
never lost in the least, and his camps are ever clothed with the best grasses.
The fence consists of four wires, Nandubay posts, and a small ditch. There
are 560 quintals of wire in the entire fence, which, cost, placed on the
land, §1 15 per quintal; 8,500 Naudubay posts, which were brought down
from La Paz, and cost, placed on the land, $6 each, which are now worth
at least glO out there; the ditching and wiring, and putting down the posts,
cost eighteen reales per yard.
The Oldendorff estancia is surrounded by no less than forty-six different
neighbors, whose cattle, sheep, and mares all fed upon the land previous
to the fencing. The appearance of the farm in timesof drought issomething
extraordinary — a sort of oasis in the dusty burnt-iup plains — grass all over
the land knee-deep, and all the stock in the very best condition. Baron
Von Ersen,a Wurtemburg cavalry officer, of great experience, has exclusive
charge of the horse department. Mameluke, a splcudid sire, stands
seventeen hands high, is seventeen years old, as tame as possible either as
a saddle or a carriage horse. This magnificent horse comes from the stud
of the King of Wurtemburg; he »vas fourteen years in the King's stables,
and is of the celebrated Trakenen breed, half Arabic, and only held in
Europe by the Kings of Wurtemburg and Prussia. On a recent occasion the
King of Prussia sent to the Emperor of the French four pure blood Trakenen
marcs. The breed is greatly prized in Europe and is very scarce ?«ext
comes Black, only five years old, a bigger, higher, and far more powerful-
looking animal than Mameluke, of the same breed and stud, taken from the
King's stables at two years old, and now three years in this country. There
are four pure blood raarcs of the same breed, all tame, and, when not heavy
, in foal, worked in the plough. There is also Mr. Hopkins' celebrated
American sine Lindo, of the Hamiltonian trotting breed, as yet very young,
and exceedingly tame. Mr. Hopkins has also two Ameiican mares — Belle
and Banne — of the celebrated Morgan trotter breed. The Baron has a
pucvsto wlierc he keeps a select c(menada>) of about 120 picked mares, all the
largest that he can obtain.
The sires are fed on barley and grein alfalfa, maize being too strong. The
buildings on the estancia have been designed by the proprietor, who has
taken ont his diploma in Wurtemburg for rural achitecture. The estancia-
housc is on the style of a Swiss cottage, and is neat and commodious,
containing eleven room^i. The puestos are all brick, some with the German
felt roof, which is cheap, .and has given great satisfaction. To the lift of
!50 ^ THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
the estancia-house are the carpenters' shop, the machioe depot, the fire
engine room, the stables for thirty plough horses ; then comes a large
galpon, eighty by eighteen, one end of which is cut off for the stables for
the thoroughbreds.
Ne\t to this is the shearing galpon, used for the Negretti ewes, sixty by
sixteen ; and opposite this is the great new galpon, seventy by twenty-two,
with a loft capable of storing 4,000 fanegas^ wheat, the underneath part
for rearing rams. Next is the granary which is now too small for the
establishment ; Xhen the German shepherd's house, and last the raajordomo's
cottage, a neat little building. To the right of the cstaucia other stables
for thirty plough horses, apartments for the agricultural laborers, large
«pileta» for watering the great kitchen garden, where every species of
vegetable for the use of tlie peons and master is reared. In fine, it would
be hard to find in the Uiver Plate so extensive, well managed, and orderly
an establishment. At sundown the ploughmen, mounted on the plough
horses, form a sort of cavalcade, and with the noise of the harness and
chains, appear to the stranger as a company of artillery.
We pass to the refectory of the p^ons — clean tables, dishes, and hands ;
everything in the most matchless order. The horses are stabled, the men
wash their hands, and all repair to their evening meal. Order reigns
supreme. In the evening, the various <(capatazes)> come to the head house,
report the work of the day, the number of horses, men; and implements
employed, and receive instructions for^the morrow. President Sarmiento,
in a recent visit to the place, expressed himself equally pleased and
astonished at everything that he saw. It has been suggested to If.E. that
it might be made a first-chiss model farm for the Republic.
Along the coast-line we m^et with the large estanciasof B:;ll, Iraola, and
Huertas. Near the Panta Lara, a low promontory which stretches out
eastward^ and is almost bare of vegetation, is the estancia of Mr. Bell : the
house is tile-roofed and antique, apparently only a few feet above the level
of tlie river, yet never inundated even in the highest tides. The submarine
cable is laid fromPunta Lara toColonia, and the overland telegraph wives
pass through Bell's lands on route for the city. Not far off is the Estancia
Iraola, a large white building, with some high ground or lomas running
almost parallel. The country looks bleak and thinly settled, but lias fine
pastures, and herds of horned cattle. Don 3Ielchor Pinero's property is ^u
the banks of the Sanborombon, and the owner expended a large sum in
building a grand residence which is now falling to decay. South of Point j
Santiago we find the estancias of Arana, Videla, and Taylor, intersected by^l^^
Uic Arroyo del Sauce ; and further west are the lands of Cooper, Rummell,
EJIISE5ADA. 151
and Chaves. The estaacia of Ponce de Leon is on the Arroyo del Gato.
The peninsula or promontory of Point Santiago is famous for producing
excellent peaches. The land in this partido is uniformly valued at §350,000
per square league. Total valuation $15,000,000, against $8,000,000 in
1862. Contribucion tax $60,000. Stock returns— 18,530 cows, 28,441
horses, 3,487 fine sheep, 899,260 mestiza sheep, 3,056 creole sheep; being
an average of 1,000 cows, GOO horses, and 18,000 sheep per square league.
Population— 2,400 Argentines, 223 English, 194 French, 125 Italians, 122
Spaniards, 64 Germans, 12 various: total 3,140. The Irisji congregation
numbers about 500, and is under the charge of Rev. Mr. Mullady, whose
district also includes Magdaleoa. There are in the partido 78 houses and
826 ranchos, including 27 pulpcrias. There are 4 alcaldes, 22 tcnientes,
12 police, and 37 1 National Guards. Agriculture is rather backward, there
being only 95 small chacras.
The camps of this partido are thickly settled with English, Irish, and
German sheepfarmcrs.
Ensenada de Barragan, as the pot is called, was used by the early
Spaniards, and even up to fifty years ago, as the port of Buenos Ay res. It
affords safe anchorage for vessels, but the great difBculty is the bar at the
entrance. Nevertheless, in recent years we have seen vessels of a 1,000
tons come in here, to take consignments of horses for the East Indies and
other places. It is the only natural port that the Province of Buenos Ay res
can boast of, and the depth of water varies from 18 to 24 Uet, Mr.
Wheelwright designs the old battery of the Spaniards as the site for his
railway terminus. A church and state school are beiug constructed in the
vicinity. At present Ensenada is only used at rare intervals, as a quarantine
ground for vessels. Mr. Wheelwright's project is to make a port here,
with wharves, warehouses, &c., connecting the same by railway with the
city. So far back as 1823 this project occurred to the eminent statesman
Rlvadavia, who commissioned Mr. James Bcvans, C.E., to report on the
subject, which he did, as follows: — c<The difficulties of the present harbor
of Eas3nada are several : in the first place the bar, which is across the
enfrance, makes it necessary for large ships to take advantage of high tide
to get In or out, and it so happens that a wind which is favorable to the
entrance of a ship into this harbor is a wind which produces low water,
and a wind wiiich is favorable for a ship to sail out of the river is contrary
to its leaving the harbor. This harbor is one made by nature, and is
calculated to hold as great a number of as large ships as can navigate the;
River Plate. My opinion is that by stopping up all the channels across the
Monte Santiago, the effect will be to enable jhips to enter or depart with
i52 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
any wind, and to wash away the present bar across the entrance ; my
reasons are as follow: a wind which occasions a low tide blows directly into
the mouth of the harbor, and tends to prevent the stream of the tide from
running out of the same. The consequence is that the tide finds its way
out of the harbor through the various channels across the Monte Santiago,
keeping the water with very little motion over the bar ; and, on the
contrary, the wind which occasions a high tide blows directly on the mouth
of the harbor, and thereby checking the current of the tide from running
over the bar. The tide, therefore, finds its way in by tbe channels across
the Monte. JVow^ by stopping up all the communications across the Monte,
all the current of the tide and land water will be obliged to run over the
bar, the increased activity of which will considerably reduce the bar.)) Mr.
Wheelwright's remarks on the subject are no less interesting — uThe port
of Eusenada is thirty-six miles from Buenos Ayres ; the outer anchorage for
large ships is protected from the south-east and all dangerous winds, while
the inner harbor has a bar which shipsof 14 oreven 15 feet at full tides may
pass, while it is susceptible of being considerably increased in depth by
dredging. Within, it forms a perfect basin, which by the same means may
be made to accommodate a 1 ,000 vessels, and eventually those of the largest
size, perfectly protected from the winds and seas. The present deep
water accommodation is ample for the construction of several miles of piers
which ships may be able to approach with as much facility and security as in
t^ most favored port of Europe, and when the railroad is constructed the
trains will pass along these piers, be placed in immediate contact with the
ships, and discharge and load direct to and from the cars. The Spanish
surveys of Ensenada give a very clear idea of the port, and these surveys
have more recently been confirmed by Messrs. Antonio Toll, Francisco Segui,
and Colonel Murature, commissioned by Government to survey that port,
and whose report bears ample testimony of the value and importance of
Ensenada as the natural port of Buenos Ayres, and as capable of accommo-
dating all its foreign commerce We have also the ofiicial proceedinjjs of
H.E. Sefior Bivadavia, who, during his administration, ordered a survey to
be made by a distinguished hydraulic engineer, who came from Englanflby
his express order to survey Ensonada, and whose report recommended a
canal to be cut, to connect it witn the city : certainly no higher testimony
can be needed. In 1803 I instructed John Coghlan, Esq., to survey
Ensenada, and his report fully sustains the foregoing testimony. In 1822
I had the good fortune to visit Ensenada on tM o occasions, once in a ship
with a draught of 1 4 feet of water, and 1 made up my mind at that time that
it was to I:ecome the port of Buenos Ayres. After the l^Pfgj^f ®^C^^C
MAGOALESA. 157
years, ia 1863 I visited Enseaada, when all my former convictions were
confirmed. On my return to England I caused a comparative map to be
published of Ensenada and the Clyde. I remember navigating the Clyde
in 1837, in steamers of 400 or 500 tons, and meeting with constant
obstructions from the shallowness of the river, while now it is the channel
for ships of 4,000 or 5,000 tons, and all this from the effect of dredging,
the same operation as will be needed in Ensenada to constitute it a port of
much greater capacity than the Clyde, as is clearly shown in the comparative
map referred to. The locality of Ensenada as an entrepot for Buenos Ayres
is favorable : tlie land, it is true, is low, but susceptible of being drained;
the swampy fringe lying between the firm ground and the proposed pier
may be filled when necessary, while the creeks which intersect it w ill assist
the drainage and accommodate the traDBc of small crafts and boats.))
Formerly there was a town at Ensenada, of which some traces remain,
as well as of some saladeros of the olden time. A road was begun from
hence to town, but never finished : it is to be hoped that the saladeros of
Barracas will be trcnsferrcd hither, which will impart some life and
activity to the neighborhood. Near the port there are a dozen houses, amd
the remains of an old battery. Near Ensenada are found large deposits of
shells, which make excellent lime ; and the adjacent country abounds in
game. The state schools are attended by 25 boys and 26 girls. Ensenada
is famous for a great naval victory by Admiral Brown.
Ensenada is eight leagues N.W. of Magdalcna, ION. of the Sanborombon,
9f E.N.E of San Vicente, 8 E. of Glcw Station, and 9 E.S.E. of Lomas de
Zamora.
Justice of Peace, Don Ignacio Correa ; Postmaster, Don Lisandro Nuilez.
Municipality, four members, ^o Standard agency in the town.
3fagdalcna.
Sitiiate nineteen leagues S.E.of Buenos Ayres, has an area of I2i square
leagues, and comprises 13!J estancias.
The partido extends 22 leagues along the coast in a S.E. direction, from
Arroyo del Pescado to the mouth of the Sanborombon : this coast line
includes Point Atalaya, Point Indio, Point Memoria and Point Las Piedras:
at Point Indio there is a light-ship for vessels to steer by, in coming up or
down the River Plate. In many places the coast is covered with a thicble
plantation or (cmonte.)) ^
IM
THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
The following are the principal estancias :-
Name.
S. Leiiguea.
Natne.
8. Leagues.
Piftero, family,
. . . . 20
Ojea,
• • • . "f^
C Fernandez,
3
Maldonado, ....
• • . • T
Miguens. farailr,
5
Echeto, ....
Monies de Oca, family,
3
Figueroa, ....
. . . • J
Rebol, family.
\i
Suarez, ....
. . . • 7
Mulchon,
li
Morales, ....
. • • ■ Y
Yillarino, ....
H
S. Fink,
• . . . ^
Cajaravillc,
I
Elizabe, ....
1
Ramos, family.
f
Butierres, ....
i
8ueno, ....
i
Preciado, ....
i
Molina, family.
1
Escribano,
6
Almjron, ....
*
Chaves, ....
2
Acevedo, ....
f
Canal, family,
2
Sampayo,
i
Ri jN'ewton,
.... H
Yasquez,
i
Salas,
i
Sanchez,
i
Machado, family.
.... li
Vclazco,
i
Martinez, ....
... 2i
Uello,
i
Cepeda,
t
Alonzo, ....
i
Salomon,
i
Velasquez,
i
Villalba,
i
Maciel, ....
1
R. Simons, ....
i
Romero, family.
7
H. Thompson,
i
Jloujan, ....
14
Sra. Bavio,
2
J.S. Fernandez,
4
G. Carmans,
f
Otamendi, '
H
F. Achaval,
1
Lopez, family,
... H
• V. Alba,
i
M. Ocampos,
1
P. Hamilton,
li
lllescas, family.
3
Bolino, ....
.... i
Conicz, family,
n-
J. Malcom,
H
Arze, family.
... H
Plowes,
i
Aguilera, ....
1
Larredia, ....
i
Yillegas, family,
L ^^^ Tk-.:«i. T ^^ nt^
,1..^^ *-. 1.1.^
mouth of the Sanborombon, forming what is called the Rincon deSuario,and
taking in the ccmontes)) of Lu's Chico. Veloz, and Gutierrez. Another large
property is that of Don Sisto Fernandez, also on the sea-boards it goes by
the name of Espiritu Sauto, and is traversed by an arroyo called Cafladon
Grande. South of Point Indio are the estancias of John Malcom, R.Fernandez
MAODALENA. 155
and Escribano: that of Hamilton is more inland, and the Chaves estates are
in the vicinitj of Todos los Santos, an. affluent of the Sanborombon. The
lands of Newton, Rebol, and Achaval are watered by the Cafiada Larga :
while those of 3Ioujan, Romero, lUescas, Cajaraville, and Monies de Oca,
lie nearer the coast. The Arroyo Dulce traverses the lands of Martinez,
Velazco, Miguens, and Lopez : theArroyo del Pacsto traverses the Otamendi
estancia; both vhese fall into the Sanborombon. The camps of Magdalena
are in general low, but well suited for sheep, and the prices realized for
wool are higher than in any other partido. The land is valued at SiOO,000
per square league; total valuation $39,000,000, against §15,000,000 in
1862. Rents are high, and land diOicult to be obtained, but it is a favorite
district of sheep-farming, and the English and Irish population exceed^
1,500. The Irish Catholics are visited by the Rev. Mr. Mullady. Commu-
nication with Buenos Ayres kept up by the Southern ttailwiy, a diligence
plying regularly between . Magdalena and Ferrari Station, a distance of
thirteen leagues.
The returns of stock are — 80,000 cows, 9 i, 800 horses, 570,000 mcstiza
sheep, 7,000 Creole sheep, and 4,901) swine ; being an average of 700 cows,
800 horses, and 5,000 sheep per square league. Population — 12,813
Argentines, I, '483 Spaniards, 7 i8 English, 197 Germans, 33i French, 242
Italians: total 15,807. There are 40 housesand 633rarichos, including 73
pulperias. There arc G alcaldes, 23 tcnientcs, 12 policemen, and 1,129
National Guards. Agriculture is in its infancy, there being only 36 chacras,
covering altogether about t ,000 acres of tillage : the obstacle to agriculture
is the want of proper roads or conveyance for produce.
The village of 3Iagdalena consists of thirty -nine houses, si\ shops, a
church, state-school, inn, brick-kiln, and several ranches, with a population
of 2,000 souls. The best houses are those of Arreaga, Gondra, Fejeiro,
Miranda, .065, and Abrega, valued from §100,000 upwards. The state-
.school is attended by thirty boys and sixty-three girls. The village is distant
a league from Point Atala^ a, on the sea-board; it is situate on a lagoon
which empties its waters by the Arroyo de Atalaya. Magdalena figures
among the smaller ports for coasting traffic : the annual port returns show
a total of 90 vessels, witli an agregage tonnage of 2,290 tons.
The formation of the now partido of Rivadavia will deprive Magdalena of
one-half its territory, reducing it to a coast-line of six and a half loagnesby
ten and a half leagues in depth to the Sanborom1)on river. Magdalena rs
distant five leagues N.W. of Point Indio, eight N. of the Sanborombon, ^Ic
sixteei E. of San Vicente, and eight and a half S.E. of Enscnacla.
15C THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
Justice of Peace, Doq Jose Maria Miguens ; Curate, Rev. Angclo Garibaldi;
Postmaster, Dou J. Ybarra ; Staridard agent, Mr. Richard Simons; Munici-
pality, four members; Municipal revenue, $150,000; Contribucion tax,
§156,000,
Rivadavia,
This is a new partido recently formed in the Rincon de Nuario, between
the southern districts of Magdalena and the River Sanborombon, covering a
superficies of about sixty square leagues. It commences at the Miguens
cstancia, a little north of Point Indio, and follows the coast down to the
mouth of tlie Sanborombon. It comprehends the estaucias of Sisto
Fernandez, Malcom, and Escribano, and the vast territory of the Piueros.
The lands of Cliave^, Otameudi, Hamilton, Thompson, Molina, and others^
are also included in this new demarcation. There arc no returns of stock,
population, &c., all these being included in the partido of Magdalena. The
partido takes its name from the eminent statesman Bernardino Rivadavia
(A.D. 182G), who introduced ahnost every measure of progress and
iraprovjment that Buenos Ayres can boast of : he died in exile, at Cadiz,
but his remains were afterwards treated with extraordinary honors and are
now lodged ::nder a splendid mausoleum at the Retiro Cemetery.
The new partido is bounded on the N.W. and W. by Magdalena, on the S.
by the Sanborombon, and on the E. and IN.E. by the River Plate. There is
no town or centre of population. The Rincon de Nuario is I21eaguesS.S.E.
of Magdalena, and about the same distance E. of Chascomus.
CasteUi.
Another new partido, situate on the sea-board, about 35 leagues S E. of
Buenos Ayres, was hitherto included as a part of Tordillo.
The partido has a coast line of ten leagues from the mouth of the Rio
Salado to the Arroyo las Vivoras, and it extends inland about t>^clve
leagues, to the borders of Dolores : the area is about seventy square
leagues. There are numerous lagoons, some of which haveoexcelleiTt fish
that come down from the Rio Salado by the EncadcnSSl^ftf^P^d^^
CASTELLI.
157
The principal estaacias arc-
—
Name.
8.
Loap^oet.
Name.
S. Leagues.
Saenz Valiente,
15
H. Martinez,
1
Martinez de Hoz,
16
Sotelo,
1
bias, family,
4
Gomez, ....
i
Botet, ....
Tapia, family,
2
A{?fiero & Co.,
«i
Gonsalez, family,
2
Mendoza, ....
1
Pereyra,
.... 2J
tarreras,
i
Anchorcna,
2
Viiialba,
i
Almiron, ....
.... H
Sacristi, ....
3
Reynoso, ....
1
M. Alzaga, ....
6
Reyes, .
i
Alvarez, ....
»i
The most important estancia is that of Messrs. Martinez do Iloz: it is
called the Araza, and comprises various establishments, that ^o by the
names of Mercedes, San Nicolas, Sebastopol, Espcranza, San Jose, Villanucva,
&c. There are fifty-two pucstos on the ground. The estancia-house is a
fine comfortable residence, Avhere one of the owners constantly lives : it
has two large «galpones,)) and extensive plantations and meadow farm.
Several of the puestos have also good plantations. The first introduction
of fine German sheep was in the time of old Mr. Martinez de Hoz (A.D.
1837), and since then the blood has been maintoincd by new importations of
Ncgrettis, some of which have been personally chosen by one of the
brothers Martinez out of the cabana of Hochlitz in Moravia. The stock of
this estancia comprises 100,000 sheep, 15,000 c3\vs, and 4,000 horses.
The Ncgrettis rams are pure blood, and their offspring are often sold by
auction in Buenos Ayrcs. The various wools are classified on the estancia,
baled and despatched direct for Europe, via Southern Railway to Buenos
Ayres : the Chascomus terminus is twelve leagues from the estancia. The
horned cattle are being much improved by introducing the Durham breed,
and there is already a good sized «rodeo)) of cross breeds. The attention
paid to improving the breed of horses is no less noteworthy, and several
iiue stallions were brought from England in I8G8. There are few
Argentines more earnestly dedicated to the progress of their country than
the Messrs. Martinez de Hoz, whose establishment in CaAuelas is also an
honor to Buenos Ayres. Besides the Negretti rams they have imported the
Lincoln and Leicestershire breeds, while their Durham cows and prize
draught horses call equally for admiration. They obtained a medal for
their wool at the Paris Exhibition of 1867. Don Jos6 Martinez de Hoz was
one of the leading men who founded the Sociedad Rural Argentina, (^
158
THE SOtlH COAST PABTIDOS.
name is identified with all the material interests of the country. The
Araza estancia has a population of 250 souls, including several Irish and
German families. On this estancia we find the lagoons of Campameato^
Salada^ Lastra, and Troucosa.
The Saenz Yaliente estancia is at the Rincon de Lopez, between the Rio
Salado and the sea-board, with a coast line eight leagues in length. There
are some large raontes, called Riojanos Grandes and Riojanos Chicos, besides
that of San Autouio. 'There are two passes across the Rio Salado, comma-
Bleating with the Migucns estancias in the partido of Biedma ; they are
called Las Piedras and El Rubio Tiburcio, the latter about four leagues up
from the mouth of the Salado.
Don Martin Alzaga has a large estate at La Postrera, on the Rio Salado :
the estancia-house is a fine building, surrounded with a natural plantation
of tala trees. The lands are washed by the Salado for four leagues, and
there are four passes across the river, viz. : Postrera, Conchas, Villar, and
Callejon. It is proposed to put a bridge over the river, which will be a
great gain to all the districts lying southward, iu the far south of this
estancia is a large lagoon called Lake Almiron.
The partido of Castelli, though comparatively little known, has an
institution that other wealthier districts cannot boast of, namely, an orphan
asylumi This is paillx supported by Government, partly by the local
revenues, and partly bv the neighbors: it was founded by Don Federico
Martinez de Hoz, the present. Justice of Peace, and is under the dedication
of Santa Isabel: there are 18 boys and 16 girls, who are cared and
educated by a master and his wife.
Tordillo,
Situate about forty leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of forty-
sii square leagues, and comprises ten estancias. The estancias comprised
in Tordillo are —
Name.
S. LenpTifP.
Name.
S. Leapues.
Anchorena,
... 25
Ramirez, 2
San Roman,
4
Arance, ....
3
Morete, ....
3
Alday, ....
. • 1
Vallejo,
.... 2k
Laferriere, family,
2i
Madrid,
1
Boer,
a
Joseph Butler,
6
John Hardy,
i
Wm. Thomson,
3
Michael Hess'gar,
i
Peter Crinigan,
.... 1 1
Thomas Dav's, x-^.
Digitized by V:r
oogll
TORDILLO. 151>
Previous to the new demarcation of 1864 this partido had an area
of too square leagues, comprehending the territory which now forms the
district of Gastelli.
The partido lies along the coast, in a S.E. direction, for a distance, of sii
leagues, from the Arroyo de Vivoras to the CaQada de Ajo, all which
territory belongs toDonTomas Anchorena. Going inland we find about five
leagues from the coast the forest of Tordillo, which extends S.E. from the
town of Dolores for a length of sii leagues. Most of the Ancliorena
property is low and marshy, but inland there is a gentle slope running
due south. The estancias of Vallejo, Ramirez, and Moreteareontheborder.s
of the Tordillo wood : those of Laferriere, Madrid, and Boer arc adjacent to
the Cafiada de Ajo, and near its mouth is a small holding belon<>ing to one
Fulcos. The land is valued at $^250,006 per square league. The returns-
of valuation^ stock, population, &Cy., are according to the old division of the
partidos. The total landed valuation in 1865 was $12,000,000, against
$6,000,000 in 1862. Coutribucion tax, $18,000. Stock returns— 85,874
cows, 32,280 horses, 4,800 fine sheep, 1 50,830 mestiza sheep, 1 5,300 creole
sheep, and 1,425 swine. There are 10 houses and 725 ranches, including
58 pulperias. Population;— l,0i8 Argentines, 22 Spaniards, 16 English, 21
Italians, 4 French, 3 Germans, 2 various, 1 Indian: total 1,117. The foreign
settlers have, however, much increased since the above returns. There
are 6 alcaldes, 12 tenientes, 9 police, and 410 National Guards. As yet^
there is no attempt to establish a town in this partido. Municipal revenue
$24,000. Justice of Peace, Don Mariano Mendiburo. The western part of
this partido is only four leagues from the town of Dolores. Some laud in
this partido was sold by auction in the early part of 1869 at $150,000 mfc
per league.
Aj6.
Situate forty -six leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 103 square
leagues. ^
The partido has a coast-line of 20 leagues from the port of Tuyu, round
Cape San Antonio, to the Montes Grandes beyond the Saladas lakes. The lands
here have been settled hi the last few years, and are now overstocked ;
several people have moved off with their flocks for the Sierra Baudrix and
other places. The principal estancia is that of Gibson Bros., which goes
Jby the name of Los Ingleses : it lies between the Arroyo de Ajd^nd San
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
IGO
THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
Clemente on the sea-board. The town and port of Tuyfi, otherwise called
Lavalle, is on this ground : the town consists of a wooden church, three
wooden houses and five or six pulperias. Gibson's estancia is often visited
by strangers from England : the stock comprises over 60,000 sheep, and the
establishment is conducted in a most orderly manner. The estate has a
diversified superficies, the parts near the sea being low and marshy, while
those inland have some thick montes, such as Zalazar, Palenque, and
Cisneros: there are also some lagoons, and besides the Arroyo ^e Ajd are
Ihe smaller streams of San Clemente and Fijeras. This fine property covers
over 50,000 acres English, and there is a good number of our countrymen
here.
The partido comprises the following estancias : —
Name.*
S. Leaffues.
Name.
S. Lesgues.
CSibson Bros.,
.., 8
Cordoba, ....
1
teloir,
13
Luque,
i
Pardo,
10
W. Gitmour,
4
Cobo,
... 18
Fernandez, ....
2
Campos,
... H
Cabrera, ....
2
Falcon, ....
H
Rodriguez,
li
Cirardo, family,
2
Alvarez,
H
Puertas,
i
Mendez,
I
Diaz, family,
1
George Bell,
3
Guzman, ....
i
F. Blanco,
li
Escobar,
... H
S. Bello,
2
Suare;^, family/
7
Diaz, famiiy,
1
Sanchez, ....
li
Acosta,
i
Gorosito,
I
George Palmer,
1
Il)arra, ....
1
Patrick Moran,
1*
Quinteros, .... . .
1
Mr. Gilrcour's estancia forms the Rincon de Ajd, between the cailada of
the same name and the port of TuyQ. It is much smaller than the Gibson
estate, but also worthy of a visit : Mr. Gilmour has another property at
Caftada de Boreja, also in this partido. The Leloir territory lies along the
ocean, at Cape San Antonio, about seven leagues in length by two in
width : the surface is diversified by sand hills called Medanos del Plata,
sundry lagoons and caQadas, and a dense thicket at the Rincon de Carnero.
Messrs. Leloir have 60,000 sheep.
Six leagues inland is the large estancia of the Pardo family; it is a
quadrangle, four leagues on each side: the camps are wild, woody, and
thinly settled ; southward is a hill called Espuela VerJe, aud there is a
o
AJO. 161
lagoon called Dos Taliias. The adJQining estancias of Don Juaa B< Pefia
were formerly in this partido, but they are not included in the new
demarcation. Manuel Jos6 Gobo's lands stretch along the sea-board, from
CapeSan Antonio to Mantes Grandes, and aro bounded westward by the
Saladas lakes ; this property is about seven leagues long by two and a-half
wide, and contains the lagoons of LaLimpia, Burrancosa, and iMate, and the
arroyos of Espiritos, and Gangrejal. The coast-line from Medano Blanco to
Bincon de Hormito consists of sand hills. Most of the inner parts of the
country arecovered with woods. Theland in this pai'tido is valued at g 1 50,000
per square league. Total valuation §17,000,000, a?ainst $10,000,000
in 1861. Contribucion tax $68,000. Stock returns— 1^4,970 cows,
34,669 horses, 920 fine sheep, 57 9,23 i mestiza sheep, and 78,533 Creole
sheep; being an average of 1,600 cows, 350 horses, and 7,000 sheep per
square league. There are 30 chacras, covewng an aggregate of 1,500
acres. Population — 2,498 Argentines, 97 English, 92 Italians, 66 French,
84 Spaniards, 30 Germans, 55 various: total 2,922. There are 182 houses
and 668 ranchos, including 30 pulperias.. There arc 6 alcaldes, 30tcn:entes,
12 police, and 346 National Guards.
The port of Tuyil or Lavalle, is good for coasting craft, being just two
leagues up the Ajo river, from the ocean : the trade returns show seventy-
four vessels arrived during the year, with an aggregate tonnage of 3,079
tons. It is very convenient for passenger and goods traffic from Buenos
Ayres to this part of the south, as the journey overland is much more tedious
and ex[)eii.sive. There are two graserias here doing a large business, and
the neighbors speak very highly of the proprictorsfor honorable and straight-
forward deal. iig. At Messrs. Bubio's office all information as to sai iag of
vessels can be obtained.
Tuya is 38 leagues S.S.E. of Ensenada, 17 S. of the mouth of the Bio
Salado, 12 ES.E. of Dolores, and 4 W.of the ocean al Cape San Antonio.
Justice of Peace, Don Gervacio Garcia.
Tvtjit.
Situate about sixty leagues S.S.E. of Buenos Ayres, is a new and thinly
settled district, nearly 100 square leagues in area. It extends along the
Atlantic for twelve leagues, from Montes Grand^s to Mar Ghlquita, with an
average width of eight leagues. ll Digitized by GoOgle
163
THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS.
There are thirteen estancias, viz. :
Kame.
8. LeaguM
Name.
8. League*
Martin' Alzaga,
.... 20
Subiaurre, ....
6
Anchorena, ....
.... 20
Pefta,
4
Aguirrc, ....
.... 12
Lastra, ....
6
Leloir,
12
Trelles pros.,
3
Herrera, ....
5
Sigismundo, ....
.... a
Serantes, ....
3
Gomez,
1
Villegas, ....
i.
Public lauds,
2
These lands were formerly included in the department of Monsalvo, and
the partido is not yet fully organised; there is neither Justice of Peace,
omnicipality, townsnip, curate, schools, nor church, and it is necessary not
to confound this partido with the town of the same name in the district of
Ajo. We have no returns of population, stock, or other statistics. The
land is valued at §250,000 per square league : total valuation, $22,000,000 ;
Contribucion tax, $88,000.
Alzaga's estancia of Montes Grandes extends southward from the Saladas
lagoons, along the sea-board as far as Monte Oliva on I he borders of Leloir's
estancia. The country is wild and thickly wooded; there 'are numerous
lagoons, and the coast-line consists of sand-hills. Leloir's lauds are bare
and desolate ; the Arroyo Chico flows through the southern part, which
goes by the name of La Argentina. Tlie rest of the coast-line is occupied
by Anchorcna's lands near the Laguna do Gongora ; the Arroyo Gallinas
also waters this part of the district. Messrs. Anchorena have another and
laiffer estancia west of Montes Graudes: it lies between Isla Redonda and
Laguna Mostazas. The estancias of Lastra, Subiaurre, and Pefia, lie
between Montes Graudes and the borders of 3lonsalvo. Bladamc Anchorena
de Aguirre has a large property at the Tres Loinas; Trelles Brothers at Los
Patos; the Herrera family at Avestruces: all these are in a southerly
direction near MarChiquita. The estancias near Montes Grandesare famed
for raising the best creoIe horses in the country, and Don Benjamin
Subiaurre is said to have 500 tame horses on his land. Montes Grandes
derives its name from the thick forest that covers this part of the country.
Mar Chiquita*
Situate about seventy-five leagues south of Buenos Ayres, is another large
and newly-settled district, with an area of about 1 10 square leagues.JOQlc
MAR CUIQUITA.
163
There are fourteen estancias, viz. :-
—
Name,
s.
Leagues.
Name.
S. L««gaes.
AnchorenaBros.,
30
Beraal Bros.,
8
Andrea Anchorena,
14
Lorenzo Torres-,
6
Sefiora Aguirre,
9
Bamon Ezeyza,
9'
F. 6ome2, • . . .
7
Jose Ezejza,
5
C. Barbosa,
3
V. Ezejza,
6
Peralta Ramos,
2
V. Sosa,
li
Seiiora Ybaftez,
....
H
G. Barbosa, ....
1
The coast-line extends for more than nine leagues along the Atlantic, and
the partido goes inland an uniform depth *of twelve leagues. The most
remarkable feature is the Mar Chiquita, a gulf which has a narrow embou-
chure on the sea-board, and stretches inland m a N. direction for about Bvc
icagues ; its greatest width does not exceed a league.
Anchorcna's property of the T.omadeGongora contains about twenty-four
square leagues : it is situate on the sea-coast, about 76 leagues from Buenos
Ayres, 26 f^om the port of Tuyu, and f 5 from the Laguna de los Padres ; it
is crossed on the eastern J-ide by the Arroyo Cliico, and on the southern by
the Arroyo Grande, which two streams, after numerous windings, form a
junction a short distance before reaching the Mar Chiquita. The land is
generally flat, but owing to its being traversed by so many arroyos it is
neverjdooded for a long tiuie. This large estate belonged for many years
to Messrs. Plowes & Co., and a portion of it is now rented to Dr. William
Holder, whose majordomo is Mr. Thomas R^ddy : a good business is done
in fattening horned cattle for the Buenos Ayres market, and selling sheep
to the wgraserias)) of Aj6.
Going southward we meet the lands of Jos6 Maria Ezcyza, which are
traversed by the Arroyo Vivoratti, and further south along the sea-board is
the Estancia Harmonia, belonging to Don Lorenzo Torres: in this last
mentionod the arroyos of Santa Helena, Los Patos, Seco, and Los Cueros
fall into the sea. The Estancia Vivorata lies N.W. of the arroyo of that
• name, and belongs to Messrs. Bernal: it has several lagoons, called Estrella,
Rodeo-grande, Blanqueada, and San Pascual. North-west, of San Pascual
IS theMargc estate of Scftora Anchorena de Aguirre, which is bisected by
the Arroyo Grande, and has also a lagoon called Arbolitos.
The estancia of Carrolanquen lies westward of the last-named, and
belon<^s to Messrs. Anchorena, who have rented it out to a number of
shccpfarraers : it takes its name from a lagoon so called, the word being of
Indian derivation. The lagoons of Chilca, Loma Verde, and Mojon are also
<jn this property, and to the N.W. we find the Arroyo Chico, otherwise
^6< THE SOLTH COAST PARTIDOS.
called NapaleofiS, which flows southward and is finally lost in the
mountainous country near Sierra del Volcan. The family of Anchorena^
may be said to own nearly the whole of this partido. The estancias of
Dona Andrea Anchocena at San Bonlan, and of Fabian Gomez at Invernado,
adjoin the partido of Tuyii. The Ezeyza family have two large estancias
eastward, extending from Lake Hinojal to the Arro} o Campamento; these
lands are traversed by the Arroyo Grande, and have also- a large lagoon
called El Durazno. The estancias of Peralta Ramos, Sosa and Barbosa are
near the confluence of the Gamparoento and Dulce arroyos.
The lauds of this partido are well suited both for sheep and horned
cattle : the former are usually placed on the boundaries of each estate, with
runs towards the centre, and estaucieros find this a good method for
preventing their horned cattle from straying off the land. The great bulk
of the inhabitants are nativesof the Province of Santiago, ia general a simple
and harmless race of people. The land-holders are nearly all wesmhy
residents in Buenos Ayres, who come here only for a few months in
summer. There are some foreigners, principally French-Basques or
Italians, but not many English. A capataz usually earns §500, and peona^
$300 per month. Peons accustomed to hard work on horseback, such at
marking caltie, [parting out same for the market, &c., find couj^tant
employment at §30 a day. The usual prices for stock are— Fat mares,
$100 to $1 15; fat oxen>r market, $160 to g200; sheep, $J2 to $17.
Since 18G9 many sheepfarmers have driven their flocks out to the opea
camps of this district ; ^ and ■ lands have recently been rented by Irish
sheepfarmers at $25,000 per annum per league.
The valuation of land is $170,000 per square Ictigue; total valuation,
$17,000,000; Contribueion tax, $08,000. Stock returns— 338,037 cows„
65,785 horses, J0,8Gi line sheep, G63, 197 mestiza sheep, 256,106 creoIe
sheep, and 1,059 swine ;2 these returns, however, include some of the
newly formed partidos adjoining. Population— 2,81 1 Argentines, 153
Spaniards, 1 19 French, 1 12 English, 55 Italians, 21 Germans, 9 Indians, 53
various: total 3,333.^ There are 10 houses and 2,015 ranches, including
2 general stores and 48 pulperias. There are 6 alcaldes, 24 tenientes, 18
police, and 1,047 National Guards. There is no village or centre of
population in the district, and the nearest towns are Aj6 and Dolores, both
about twenty -five leagues distant : Mar Chiquita may be considered three
days' journey from Buenos Ayres, via Chascomus and Dolores.
Justice of Peace, Don Felix Bernal.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
165
CHAP. X.
THE FAR SOUTH.
* FROM THE SAL\DO fO PATAGO'NES.
Pi la.
Situate about thirtj-Gve leagues S. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 135
square leagues, and contains the following estancias : — v
Nnmo.
Rosa Ancborena,
Pedro Anchorena,
F. Gomez, ....
N. & J. Anchorena,
Stegmann,
Agiiero,
Girado,
Casco,
Senillosa,
Chaves,
Capdevila,
Public lands.
The boundaries'!
S. Leagues. I
20 I
12
16
25
8^
5
5
4
3^
i
i
3
Name.
S. Leogaefl
Aguilera,
3
Marin, ....
3
Yzurrieta, ^
3
Casalins, family.
6
Jose Miguens,
6
Gallo,
H
Prado, ....
1
J. FJizalde,
3
Gamboa, ....
1
Scott,
i
Barragan,
i
Brown,
i
•of Pila are — N. the Rio Salado, which separates it from
Ranchos; W. LasFlores; S. the new partidos of jJaug^^and Arenales; and
E. Vecino and Dolores, ^
166 THE FAR SOUTH PARTipOS.
This is another partido in great part belonging to the Anchorena family,
the first four estates having an aggregate of seventy-three square leagues r
these properties extend in a straight line S.E. from the partido of Las Flores^
to the Vecino, a distance of fifty miles English. The lands of Dofla Rosa
Anchoreua delbaQez begin a couple of leagues south of the Rio Salado, and
contain the lagoons of San Jos6, Cardalito, Villanueva, Biscacheras, Ghapa*
lofquen, and Espadafia. The estancia of Pedro Anchorena lies south of the
Arroyo and Lake Camarones. That of Don Fabian Gomez de Anchorena
i§ further south, and comprises some small lakes called Sarten, Larga, and
Gallego. The estates of Nicolas and Juan Anchorena comprise the whole
country between Laguna dc los Ghanchosand the Arroyo Vecino.
The most notable estancia in the partido is Poronguitos, the estate of
3Iessrs. George and Glaudius Stegmann, the latter always residing here. It
was established in 1836 by the father of the present owners, and has long
been famous for its cabana of fine sheep. The late Mr. Stegmann began the
establishment with eighty Negrettis of the Imperial cal^afia of Austria. The
stock now counts 1 ,300 pure Negrettis and G0,000 other sheep. The estancia
covers 60,000 acres, lying along the banks of the Salado (which is crossed
at the Paso de Rocha) and tending inland to the Camarones lake. Messrs.
Stegmann obtained a bronze medal for wool at the Paris Exhibition.
The lands of Torres, Girado, and Gasco lie between the Gamarones tind
the Paso dc Venado on the Rio Salado : higher up than this pass we meet
the Senillosa estancia ; that of Aguilera is near the Paso dc Rocha. The
Gasalins properly is southward on the borders of the partido de Ranch . The
estancias of Gamboa, Prado, Elizaldc, Brown, &c., are in the vicinity of
Lake VichaUuel and Arroyo del Toro. On the banks of the Camarones is
the estancia of Don Lorenzo F. Aguero, famous for some fine sheep imported
direct from Germany. The wool of this establishment is in good repute.
The estancia-house is one of the handsomest in the southern districts having
been erected from plans by Mr. Hunt. It is surrounded by a quinta <'ind
plantation, and the galpon is also worthy of notice. The Gamarones is a
permanent stream of good water, and in winter can only be passed in
boats or by swimming. It is proposed to establish a town for the district of
Pila on this land ; and a bridge also is talked of.
Valuation of land §150,000 to $200,000 per square league; total valuation *
$20,000,000; Contribucion tax $80,000. Stock returns (including some
newly formed partidos) — 2!>0,700 cows, 94,602 horses, 7,200 fine sheep,
1 1 1,500 mostiza sheep, 6,800 creole sheep, 550 swinQ. The agricultural
returns show 120 chacras, covering about 12,000 acres. Population — 2,967 ,
Argentines, 92 Spaniards, 89 Italians, 76 French, 16 English, 9 Gcrman^P^^^,
VECINO.
167
16 Indians, 96 various ; total 3,361, There are 1 i houses and'756 ranchos,
including 40 pulperias. There are 7 alcaldes, ?2 tenientes, and 12 police.
The district has neither town, schoola, nor church. The nearest towns are,
Dolores 12 leagues E. ; Las Flores 12 leagues W. ; Chascomus 14 N.E. ; and
Banchos 14 leagues N. ; these distances are supposed to be taken from Lake
Espadana in the centre of the partido. Pila may be reached in one day
from town, via Southern Railway to Chascomus.
Justice of Peace, Don Lorenzo Agtiero, who is also Postmaster.
Veeino.
owing estancias : —
S. Leagaee.
7
Situate about fifty leagues S. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 80 square
leagues, and contains the foil
Name.
Ocampo, , • . .
Aguero, 7
Pinedo, .... .... 7
Ponce Bros., .... 7
Rodriguez, 8
Fresco, ^
Castafio, .... .... 3
Ituralde, 1^
C. Sosa, 1^
Olivares, .... 1
Ramirez, ^
Reynoso, .... .... ^
Palavicino; ^
The partido is bounded on the ?i. by. Dolores, on the W. by Pila and
Arenales, on the S. by Ayacucho, and on the E. by Monsalvo and Dolores.
The district takes its name from the Arroyo Vecino which rises in the
lagoon of the same name, near the forest of Tordillo, and traverses the
counlry f lora east to west. In wet season this caftada is flooded for miles,
offering some difficulty to travellers. The land of this partido is in general
low, but most of it is suitable for sheep: the valuation is $200,000 per
square league; total valuation $15,000,000; Contribucion tax $60,000.
The estandias of Ocampo, Aguero, Pinedo, and Ponce are N. of the Cailada
del Yeciiio, adjoining the Anchorena estates of Pila; the intermediat^lc
boundary is the southern highroad to Tandil. Eastward we find the lands
Name.
S. Leagues
Pizarro, family,
7
Garcia,
.... 2i
Puyol,
4
Vasquez,' family,
4
Pereyra, ....
.... 4
Lara,
4
Maldonado, .....
2
Cepeda, ....
1
Marin, ....
i
Lamadrid,
i
Figueroa, ....
i
Newton, ....
i
V.Sosa, ....
i
h;8
THE FAR SOUTH PARTID08.
of Fresco, Ituralde, Lara, and Pereyra^ all bordering on Monsalvo. The
estancias of Casta Ao, Puyol, and Garcia are on the southern border : and ia
the centre of the partido are those of Rodriguez, Pizarro, Olivares, Sosa,
&c., all watered by the Vecino. The lagoons are small and too numerous
to mention.
Of late years some Englishmen have started as sheep-farmers in this
partido, but their number is inconsiderable. The latest official returns are
so far back as 1859, and are as follows : — Population — 1,515 Argentines,
19 Spaniards, 9 Italians, 7 English, 6 French, 2 Germans, G various ; total
l,56i. There are 3 houses and 420 ranchos, including 2i pulperias.
Stock returns— 101,300 cows, 23,2Q0 horses, 11,500 fine sheep, 58,000
mestiza sheep, 60,200 creole sheep, 400 swine. It is worthy of remark that
the Creole sheep exceed the mestiza class in this partido : nevertheless the
district has progressed of late years, and the above returns can hardly now
be regarded as correct. There are 3i chacras under fruit, vegetables,
and grain, comprising altogether about 5,000 acres. There are 5 alcaldes,
13 tenientes, 12 police, and 290 National Guards. The partido has
neither town, church, nor schools. The nearest towns are — Dolores 8
leagues N.E.; Ranclios 23 leagues N. ; Azul 30 leagues W. ; and Tandil
2i S.W.
Justice of the Peace and Postmaster, Don Juan Vitcn.
Monsalvo.
Situate about fifty-two leagues S.S.E. of Buenos Ayrcs, has an area of
eighty square leagues, and comprises the following estancias :-
Name.
8. JUjagues.
Name.
S. Leaguee.
£. Ramos Mejia,
8
Diaz,
5
M. Ramos Mejia',
8
Acosta,
5
SeQora Ramos de Madero, 10
Gonsalez, ....
H
Seftora Ramos de Elia,
10
F. Madero, ....
Celina Alzaga,
5
John Logan, ....
• 1
J. B. Pefla,
... 4i
E. Varela, ....
Lastra, ....
H
Invaldi, ....
Fran. Pereyra,
1
Arosa, ....
Felix Pereyra,
1
Centurion, ....
Rodriguez,
1
Soriano, . o^tized bv
.Google
Areco,
9
MO^'SALVO. 169
The partido is bounded on the north bj Dolores, on the west by Vccino,
on the south by Mar Chiquita, and on the east by Tuyd- The country is
low, marshy, and in some places thickly wooded: there, are numerous
lagoons, at least forty of some magnitude, the largest being that of Caquel-
Huincal. The forest of Mousalvo is near the borders of Tuyii, only four
leagues distant from Montes Grandes. Monsalvo' had an extent of 150
square leagues before the formation of the new partidos : the district has
made little progress in recent years, the number of foreign settlers being
comparatively small. The family of Ramos Mejia own nearly half the
partido, their esUncias lying along the highroad from Dolores to El Moro
for a length of eight leagues : this is the same family of Ramos Mcjia that has
such handsome suburban properties between San Martin and the river of
Matanzas. The estaucias of Juan B. Pcfiu at Monte del Chancho, of Lastro at
Lake Contreras, and Acosta at Lake Mousalvo, are in the vicinity of
Mousalvo wood : Logan's property adjoins that of Lastra. The Alzaga
estancia is situate between two lagoons called Talitas and Las Toscas : that
of Juan Antonio Areco lies southward, in the direction of Mar Chiquita^
near Lake Quelqueheincul. The lands of Diaz and Gonsalez are near
Monte Taucho, which is only an offshoot of the forest of Tordillo. The
smaller properties of Varela, Pereyra, Invaldi, &c., are situate in a marshy
country between Loma Partida and the borders of Ayacucho.
Mousalvo is distant only .eight leagues from the Atlantic sea-board, the
intervening country being the forest of Montes Grandes, and partido of Tuyii.
The land is valued at g200,000 to §250,000 per square league; total
valuation, §17,000,000 ; Contribucion tax, $68,000. The statistical returns
are those corresponding to Monsrtlvo before its territory was reduced by
one-half in forming the new partidos. Population — 8,509 Argentines, 295
Italians, 250 Germans, 1 \d French, 107 Spaniards, 77 English, 53 Indians,
137 various : total 9,577. There are 25 houses and 753 ranchos, including
43 pulperias. Returns *of stock~258,000 cows, 41 J 41 horses, 357,000
fine and mestiza sheep, and 459,000 creolc sheep. Agricultural returns —
98 chacras, covering about 3,000 acres. There are 9 alcaldes, 36 tenicntes,
and 12 police.
w There is neither town, school, nor church in the partido. The centre of
the district may be considered 1 i leagues S.W. of Ajo, 12 S. of Dolores, 28
E.iN.E. of Tandil, 1 i N.IN.W. of the Mar Chiquita, and 22 N. of Laguna de
los Padres.
Justice of Peace, Don Emiliauo Aguirre ; Postmaster, Don Luis
Mercado.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
170
THE PAH SOUTH PARTIDOS.
Ayacucho.
Situate about 56 leagues S. of Buenos Ayres, ias an area of ! 1 5 square
leagues, and comprises the following estancias : —
Narao.
Casta UO, ....
S. Leagues
16
■Senillosa,
S. Lcaj^e*.
9
Ortiz Basualdo,
B. Subiaurre,
7
9
Majol,
Rebol,
3
3
Lezama, ....
6
Mir6,
.•J
Monasterio, ....
....' 4
Vignal, ....
<i
Fcrreyra, ....
Iraola, family,
.... 2i
16
«Cacique Negro,»
R.Gomez,
4
Girado, family,
Morales, ....
6
Bargas,
D.Gomez,
2
1
Diaz,
Bisuarra,
4
Lopez,
Garay,
Burgos,
Fernandez,
Barrieutos,
Percjra, family,
Salinas,
Jos6 Henrique,
(
2
1
14
The partido is bounded on the N.E. by Vecino, on the N. W. by Arenales,
from which it is separated by the highroad to Tandil and Arroyo Tandileofu;
on the S.W. by Tandil; on the S. by Balearce ; and on the E. by Mar
Chiquita. It is one of the new partidos, ,and takes its name from the
decisive victory over the Spaniards, which established the independence of
all South America. It is watered by the Arroyo Chico, or Napoleofu f and a
number of lakes, viz: — Hinojal, Cacique Negro, Barrancosa, Piedra,
Cortadera, Loma Alta, Pozo de Fuego, Animas, Juncal, Esperanza, &c.
This partido was formerly an integral part of Tandil, and is not yet properly
organized. It is a wild and thinly-settled country, lying about midway
between the Sierra de Tandil and the shores of thcAtlaniic ; the sea- board
is thirteen leagues E. from the nearest point of the district.
The estancias of Castailo and Yraola lie S.E. of the Arroyo Tandileofu;
the first goes by the name of Hinojal, the second is called La Reconquista.
Near the banks of the same stream we find the Cacique Negro, formerly
belonging to Don Nicolas Coronel, but more recently sold by auction to Seuor
Cabo and other purchasers. The adjacent lands of Vignal were for some
years occupied by two English sheep-farmers from Australia, who have
since returned to England. This part of the country is not much in favor
amongst foreign settlers. Lezama's property at the Juncal is traversed by
the Arroyo Quetreleofu, and further south are the landg. .(jif^^ebol and^|g
ARENALES.
17»
Ferreyra. Tfae estancias of Basualdo. Miro, and Suhiaurre lie N. of tbe
Arroyo Chico, and this stream also waters the estate of Senillosa and Girado
families. Nearer to the «sierras» are the lands of Bargas, Gomez, Diaz,
Fernandez, &c. The estancias of Monasterio and Bisuarra are on the Arroyo
Tandileofa.
There is neither town, church, school, nor Justice of Peace in this partido^
noF have we any statistical returns, as these will be included in the returns
forTandil. The centre of the district is distant thirteen lea;>ues E. of
Tandil, 22 S.W.-of Dolores. 18 N.W. of Laguna de los Padres, 18 W.N.W.
of the Mar Chiquita, and 26 E.S.E. of Azul. Tlie journey to town may be
made in tliree days ; first day on horseback to Dolores, second by diligence
to Chascomus, third by rail to Buenos Ayres.
Postmaster, Don Martin Linera.
Arenales.
Situate about fifty-two leagues south of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 135
square leagues, and cont
ains the folio
wing estancias:—;
Name.
S. Lenpnioe
Name.
H. Leagues.
Pereyra,
. . . . 20
Aroyo, ,
8
Seiiora do Lezama,
17
Balbin, .... ....
5
DiazVelez, ....
. . . . 20
Yraola, ....
4
Rufino, family.
16
G. Lezama, ....
4
Vela, family,
.... 12
Alvarez, ....
2
Pourtale Bros.,
4
Godoy, ....
5
Dorainguez, ....
2
Miguens, family, ...
. H
Rodriguez,
1
Palacios,
1
Merlo, ....
.... n
Gonsalia,
1
Corbera, ....
2
Rivas,
H
This is another of the new partidos, and its boundaries are — north Pila,.
wrest Ranch, from which it is separated by the Arroyo LangueyQ ; south
Tandil, and east Ayacucho and Vecino. The only water courses are the
Langueyii on the N.W. and the Tandileofii on the S.E. ; there are numerous
lagoons, but none of them of any importance. The Arroyo Langueyii seems
a continuation of the Canada del Vecino, and here the country is low and
marshy : the rest of the partido is \*'ild, open camp, at present but sparsely
settled. The highroad from Dolores to Tandil forms one of the southern
boundaries. Tie largest estancia is that of Don Eustaquio Diaz Velez^wlio ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
t72 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
owns immense landed properties all through the south. Of almost equal
extent is the estate of Don Leonardo Pereyra and the other heirs of Simoa
Pereyra, deceased. The estancia of Mme. xMzaga de Lezama is on the
Arroyo Quetreieofi'i. The lands of Pourtale, Merlo, Gonzalia, and Rivas lie
north, near Laguna del Chancho. The large properties of the Vela and
Rufino families arc watered by the Langueyii. The Iraola and Balbin
estancias are in the centre of the partido ; and southward, on the banks of
the Tandileofd we find those of Aroyo, Alvarez, Godoy, and others. The
partido, when first formed (in 1861), had an area of 296 square leagues,
but it has been stripped of half its extent, iii forming other more recent
partidos.
The official returns of I86i areas follow : Population— 3,517 Argentines,
330 Spaniards, 313 French, 9i Italians, 37 English, 5 Germans, 19 Indians,
5,330 various: total 9,6i5. There are 8 houses and 1 ,187 ranches, includ-
ing 39 pulperias'. Stock returns— 166,000 cows, 73,198 horses, 5,752 fine
sheep, 1,272,577 mestiza sheep, 138,035 Creole, sheep, and 472 swine.
There is no town, school, or church in the partido, but the Government
has subscribed §160,000 towards building a state school ; the centre of the
district is distant 13 leagues N.E. of Tandil, 21 E. of Azul, 19 S.W. of
Dolores, 23 S. of the Paso de Rocha on the Rio Salado, and 32 W. of Cape
San Antonio on the Atlantic sea-board.
Justice of Peace, Don Felipe M. Brizuela; Postmaster, -Don Martitt
Linera. Municipal revenue, $100,000.
Ranch .
Situate about 46 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 1.45
square leagues
This is another of the new partidos, and takes its name from the valiant
Colonel Rauch, a German by birth, who began his campaign against the
iLdians in 1822 : during several years he performed a succession of brilliant
exploits and drove the savages far into the desert, conquering an immense
territory for the purposes of industry and colonization. He was at last
treachously abandoned by his own men, and perished in the midst of a
glorious and useful career. The boundaries of the partido are — N. Las
Flores, from which it is separated by the Arroyos Gualichu and Azul ; W.
Azul ; S. Tandil, and E. Arenales and Pih. The district is well watered:
the Chapalco.fu is a larg/s stream traversing the partido from north to south;
HAU€U.
175
ao affluent of this river is called El Pantanoso. The Langoejii on the east,
and the Gualicbu, Azu], and Arroyo de los Huesps on the west, are alsa
considerable water-courses. Th<?re are sundry small lagoons, such as the
Barrancosa, Posada, Cerones, Chilcas, Nanyu, Colorado, Bueyes, and
Espadafta.
The partido comprises the following estancias : —
Name. S. LeagiieSw
Rodriguez, .... 7
Alzag^, 5
Jos6 Chiclana, 5
S. Chiclana, 4
Silva, family, .... 8
V.Basualdo, . . . . 2
Letamendi, .... 4
Casalins, 2
J. Martinez, .... 2
U.Martinez,.... .... li
Genova, .... .... I
Gonsalez, 1
Serpa, famjly, 2
Dominguez, .... .... ^
Calixto Moujan, 9
The Vela territory lies between the Languevu and the Chapaleofii^
comprising twenty square leagues, besides twelve square leagues on the
other side of the Languevu, already mentioned in the partido of Arenales.
Southward and also on the banks of the Ciiapaleofu is the Diaz Velez estate,
one half of whicli is in lilve manner in the next partido, the whole forming
thirty-five square leagues of land. The Udaquiola property is called
Estancia de la Compafiia (perhaps it belonged ouee to the Jesuits) : it is near
the Laguua Colorado, and the Chiclana estancia adjoins. Simla Rosa is
another large estate, formerly belonging. to Messrs. Lannusse Bros, and Don
Juan B. Peila, and now the property of Dou CaIi\to Moujan : it is westward
of the Chapaleofu, lying between that river and the Arroyo de los Huesos.
Southward and between the same rivers are tlie hnds of Alzaga and
Rodriguez.. Monte Gualicliju is onthearrojo of that name, and in this neighbor-
hood are the estancias cf Bojas, Ortiz, Basualdo, Echeverria, and the public
lands. In the centre of the partido we find Gasal, Martinez, and Serpa ; on
the borders of Pila are the Silva, Casalins, and Letamendi estancias.
There are no statistical returns ; a portion of this partido was formerly
included in A2;ul, and the rest belonged to Pila. There is neither ^pj^QJp
igi ize y g
Name.
s.
Leagues
Vela, family,
20
Diaz Velez,
15
Udaquiola, ....
12
Casal,
4
R. Basualdo,
i
Portela, ....
2
Centurion , ....
4
Rojas,
4
Echeverria, ....
. 3
Licate, ....
3
, Public Lands,
li
Nuflez, ....
1
Roldan,
1
Medrano, ....
2
Juan D. Diaz,
I
174
THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
school, nor town in the district : the centre of the partido is distant 1 4
leagues N. of Tandil ; 15 E. of Aznl ; 38 W. of Cape San Antonio ; and 2^ S.
of Terrero's bridge on Rio Salado.
Justice of Peace, Don Francisco M. Letamendi.
AznL
Situate fifty-five leagues S.W. of Buenos A3 res, has an area of nearly 400
^uare leagues, and comprises the following estaucias :
Name.
a. Leaijuee.
Name.
S. Loagu€«.
Llavallol,
10
L. Cox,
5
AuchorenaBros.,
12
P. Martinez,
3
Acosta, ....
. 12
Barda,
3
Rosas,
12
M. Roldan,
4
Iturralde, ....
4
Peilalva, ....
3
Botet,
3
B. Roldan,
3
LeloirBros.,
7
Aguirre,
2
M. Martinez j ...
(y
Gutierrez,
2
Vidal,
5
Cordoba, ...
. 2.V
Yiton,
2
Islas,
H
Domiuguez, family,
3
3Iurua, ....
i
Ulloa, family,
4
W. Grierson,
i
H. N. iNicholson,
H
Zarate, family,
2
William Laurie, • ...
. 2
Julian Martinez,
H
Palacios, "...
U
Mosquera, ....
1
Lahitte,
. 3
John Freres,. ...
H
Alcantara, family,
3
Muftoz, *....
3
Luques, ....
3
Mendieta,
n
Mancilla, family,
H
Peredo,
2i
Planes, family, . . . .
H
Pardo, family,
7
Pondal,
H
Santos,
H
Sotuyo,
2i
' Peter Tenor,
1
Varela, .... . . . .
14
Serantes, family, . . . .
4
Roclia,
H
Reynoso, . . . .
H
Miaana, family, . . . .
ii
Lavao,
>t
Gomez, family,
H
Correa, .... . . . .
H
Brid, .... . . . .
H
Arista, family, . . . ,
n
Alvarez, family,
3i
Avila, ..... . . . ,
H
Alvarado Bros., • . . .
H
Aristegui,
2i
Thomas Tucker,
f
Joseph Gordon, ./r?.
Digitized by V:»<
DOOlk
AZUL. 175
Besides the above there is a number of smaller holdings called «Los,
Suertes del Azul,)) each comprising three-quarters of a square league of
land; they are 252 in number, viz. : Alvarez, Alicate, Ararao, Aguilar,
Almada, Avalos, Acosta, Aguirre, Berdun, Baigorrea, Balcarce (2), Bardas
(2), Baldovino (2), Ballesteros, Belgrano, Barragan, Balvidares, Burgos (3),
Bustos, Coronel (2), Cabrera (2), Calandria, Chaves, Castcllanos, Carabajal,
Castro, Cejas, Carmona, Dhers (2), Diaz, Espinosa (2), Echagiie, Figueroa,
ff'illon (2), Ferrcyra, Fernandez, Guzman, Gousalez (2), Guerrico, Guedes,
iJenova (3), Garro, Galvan, Grigera, Giles, Horuos (3), Herrera, Huertas, ;
Izeta, Ibailez, Lopez (.<), Lujau, Lara, Lciva, Leal, Lencina, Lasota, Merlo,
Medina (3), Maldonado (2), Maya, Moron, Montenegro (2), Martinez (2),
Mendez, Morua, Marquez, Matas, Navas (1), Ocampos, Olivera, Preciado,
Prado, Pullisa, Ponce, Perez, Peralta, Pozo, Riov6, Rodriguez (8), Rinun,
Roja^, Romero, Roldan (3), Sequeira, Salas (2), Sayago (2), Silva (4),
Ramirez (G), Solano, Tenor, Bustamante, Ulloa, Urbina, Urquijo, Uran,
\cga, Villalba, Villarnel, Zavala, Zurita, Carriso, Celaya, Luna, and 104
dthers, covering altogether an area of 189 square leagues; These suertes
surround the town of Azul, and are -bounded on the E. by the Arroyo
Cortaderas, and on the W. by the Talaquen river: they extend in a straight
line from the borders of Las Flores, in a S.W. direction to the desert, for a
-distance of twenty-two leagues. The Azul river flows through the midst of
them, and in the south there is a barrier of hill-ranges separating them
from the Indian pampas : these hills are designated Sierra Redondo,
Pereguino, Sotuuo, and Baya, and three leagues furtl^er out stands Fort
Perdido, in a caftada of the same name ^
The estancias of Llavallol, Viton, Vjdal and Dominguez are situate
between the Arroyos Cortadcros and Los Huesos, on the borders of Tandil.
fr'urther south in the hilly country we find Cox, Acosta, and Auchorcna, the
last-named in the vicinity of Cerro Colorado. The frontier line runs S.E.
along these hills, from Sierra Quillalanquen (in the adjoining partido
of Tapalquen) to Sierra la Tinta near the head-waters of the Quequen
•Grande, ahout twenty-four leagues from the ocean. The distance from
Quillalanquen to the Sierra Tinta is twenty-six leagues: about seven
leagues E. of Quillalanquen is Fort Perdido, and four leagues farther E. we
meet Fort Miftana, built on the estancia of the Minana family, near Lake
Nutria : four leagues S. is Fort Otameudi, beyond the frontier line, and
there are numerous estancias for some leagues even beyond this fort, which
is near a lagoon called LaBarrancosa. These estancias are Martinez, Roldan,
Aguirre, Gutierrez, Barda, Penalva, &c. ; and between Fort Otameudi aud
Iho fiontier we find the settlements of Dbn Felipe Botet and Senorlturralde,
o
176 THE FAR SOUTH PAttTlDOS.,
iu the vicinity of Cerro La Plata and Cerro Canete. The large estate of the
late Prudcncio Rosas lies east of the town of Azul extending as far as
Arroyo Corina. The properties cf Ulloa, Cordoba, and Islas are on the
banks of the Arroyo Los Huesos.
This part of the country until recently suffered much from Indian
incursions, but is now comparatively unmolested. Numbers of young
Englishmen are settling down here, as land is abundant and cheap : some
have sheep-farms on rented lands, others occupy themselves in fattening
cattle for the city market, and in this xvay young men of limited capital and
active habits find a better start than in any other part of the River Plate
territories. Azul, however, is not -without its drawbacks, in the lawless
state of society at present existing. One-third of the inhabitants' are what
is termed « tame Indians,)) but a worse feature is the number of escaped
vagabonds prowling about the frontier. The laud is suitable both for sheep
and cattle. The otBcial valuation is $120,000, and some English farmers
have bought from Government at $160,000 per square league; but sales
between private parties generally go as high as $250,000; total valuation
$57,000,000, against $34,o00,000 in 1861 ; Contribucion tax $228,000.
Population — 5,562 Argentines, 2,760 Indians, 91 i French ^ 50.1 Spaniards,
230 Italians, 58 G-rmaas, 56 English, 166 various; total 10,219. Ihere
are 387 houses and 1,988 ranches. Stock returns — 822,700 cows, 77,991
horses, 20,627 fine sheep, 812,023 mestiza .sheep, 427,680 creole sheep,,
and 1,472 swine; be. ng im average of 2,000 coas, 200 horses, and 3,000
sheep per square league. There are 9 alcaldes, 21) tenicntes, 14 police,
and 350 National Guards. There is a considerable amount of land under
cultivation, comprised in 147 Aacras, with an aggregate of nearly 100,000
acres. ^
The town of Azul has longbcen a place of trade and importance on the
Indian frontier, and the head-quurters of the Government forces in the
south. Before the Paraguayan war the garrison comprised 100 cavalry
and 550 infantry of the Line, besides National Guards auxiliaries. In
former years the place suffered much in the Indian wars, and it was
besieged by the savage tribes only twelve years ago. It is now a rising
town of 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the Azul river and surrounded by
chacras. There are a church, schools, 162 shops and houses, a barrack,
two mills, several brick-kilns, and some well-planted quintas. the best
houses are those of Aguerribem, Brid, Bolpndo, Chay6, Corneille, Mallet;
Medrano, Aniran, Bastos, Belagoni, Cedrun, Ibarra, Ireverria, Lasalle,
Leguisamou, Pereda, Payro^, Perez, Meabe, Rodriguez, and Vichy, valued
from $70,000 upwards. The mills are those of Dhers and Riviere, The.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
TAsnrL. 177
-state-schools are' attended by 75 boys and 73 girls. The municipality
intend to build ncv/ school-houses, town-hall, and prison, for which purpose
they hfive §200,000 lodged in bank. The Provincial branch-bank of Azal
was established in 1867, with a capital of $3,000,000 nife,.for the districts
of Azul, Rauch, Tapalqucn, Tandil, and Necochea. The principal trade of
the town is with the Indians, who sell stolen hides, rugs of their own
manufacture, skins of beasts, &c. ; the store-keepers pay them partly in
liquor, but the authorities wisely take their arms from them before getting
intoxicated. Governor Alsina in 1867 tried to prevail on the Indians to
move further out, but their wtolderiasw are pitched close to the town on the
very estancias sacked by them in 1855. The foreign residents very often
do police-duty, and they have recently asked the Government for a supply
of 400 muskets. The town has a municipality of four members ; municipal
revenue $110,000.
Azul maybe reached in 2 J dajs from town, «?m Southern Railway to Alta-
mirano station, whence the diligence starts on arrival of the morning train;
the distance from Altamirano to Azul is about forty-two ^agues. Azul is
situate 12 leagues E. of the Sierra Quillalanquen, 16 N.W. of Tandil, 52 from
the sea-board, 38 W.S.W. of Dolores, 21 S.W.of Las Flores, and 9^ S.8.B.
of the town of Tapalquen.
Justice of Peace, Don Jos6 M. Medrano; Curate, Rev. EduaMo Martini ;
Postmaster, Don Manuel G. Bonorino.
Tandil,
Situate 60 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 165 square
leagues.
The partido is bounded on the N.E. by Arenales and Ra?ich. on the N.W.
"by Azul, on the S.W. and S. by Necochea and Loberia, and on the E. bj •
Balcarcc. About eight leagues beyond the Tandil is the Sierra Tinta,
where some excellent maible has been found ; Dr. Burmeister classifies il
ns wArgentine agate marble.)) Seilor Borjes made explorations in 1864, and
found the marble lying from twelve to twenty feet below the surface, and
assuming differeJit colors according to its depth : the veins extend for a
great distance and are very accessible for waggons. The owner of the land
(Seftor Vela) advanced Borjes £100 for the enterprise, but the latter failed
to get up a company, and the idea has not since been taken up. Before th^lC
MAI
nS THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
formation of the, new partidos of Kecochea and Balcarce the extent of
Tandil was over 400 square leagues. The latest statistical returns are —
Population — 1,506 Argentines, 535 Indians, 34 Spaniards, 21 Italians, 10
French, G English, *5 Germans, 26 various ; total 2,1 43 : these, however, can
no longer be considered exact. Stock returns not given. There are 'four
h6uses and eighty ranchos, also 27 chacras. The partido is little known to
foreign residents : we are indebted to an English sheep-farmer of Tandil
for the following account, of this remote territory : — " The flat interminable
plains which exist over the rest of the Province of Uuenos Aj res are here
diversified by the sierras, the rtdges of which present an agreeable vista to
the eye of the traveller, wearied by the monotonous scenery of t!ie pampas.
The sierras give birth toseveral beautiful streams of fresh, sweet water,,
the principal ol" \>hiih are the Capaleofu, the Huesos, the Arroyo Tandil,
ifec. These streams after running some fifteen or twenty leagues lose
themselves in iagunas and cwampy grounds. The pasture in this district
is less refined, aud the grasses coarser than nearer Buenos Ayrcs, and.
consequently not so well suited for sheep, but cattle do very \jiill on them^
The estancias are principally owned by native gentlemen, and have been but
little subdivided, so that they are mostly from three to eight square leagues
in extent; many are rented, the owners finding it more profitable than
stocking the lands themselves. The rent varies from g 1 5,000 to $20,000
the square league, capable of supporting 10,000 to 12,000 sheep, and where
the centre of an estancia is occupied by cattle, puestos are rented on the
boundaries at $3,000 to $i,000 per puesto for 2,000 sheep. The nominal
price of land is $200,000 to $300,000 per square league. The sheep in thi*
district are, as a rule, not so refined as those nearer town, and it is only
within the last s'.x years that foreigners have come to settle, bringing sheep
with them. Sheep-farming is under the same depression here as in the rest
of the province. Although land is cheaper, the sheep will not fatten sa
well, nor give so heavy a fleece as on the finer pasture lands, aud the heavy
•freight for sending the wool into Buenos Ayres is nearly equivalent to the
higher rent paid for land nearer town. The hides, wool, &c., are despatched
to Buenos Ayres in bullock-carts, which make the journey of eighty leagues
in from fifteen to twenty days in summer, and one or two months in winter*
The freight varies from $ 10 to $1 4 per arroba of 25U, as much as it costs to
send the articles from Buenos Ayres to Europe. The freight from Buenos
Ayres averages $50 perbulto of 15011 of bulky goods, 2006 of heavy. The
expenses of a sheep-farm are greatly enhanced by this heavy cartage, as all
the material has to be brought from town, and the freight on pine and posts
for the folds, &c., is as much as their first cost. ^
TA^DIL. 179
'*The nominal price of sheep is from $10 to §15 per bead, and cattle $"^0
per head. With present prices of wool it is a hard business for the sheep-
farmer to meet his expenses, and many are trying to meet the deficiency by
sowing plots of wheat and maize.
"The town of Tandil is situated in a valley in the sierras, and has a very
picturesque appearance. A stream lined with poplar and willov trees
winds round it and works a flour mill owned by Mr. J. Fugh. The town
possesses a fine national school and municipal oflices, behind which is a small
space entreuclied by a deep ditch faced with stones, which served as a fort
against the Indian^ in years gone by. About a league from the town is tiie
famous rocking stone, which is a huge boulder balanced on the top of a
sierra, and half overhanging the precipice ; the balance is so delicate that a
gentle breeze will make it tremble, and yet the fiercest storms fail to hurl it
down. A very important trade is carried on here in country produce, it
being the nearest town for the inhabitants of the frontier districts. Jiarge
quantities of wheat are sown in the neighborhood, on the slopes of the sierras;
the soil seems well adapted to this crop, and the climate favorable. The
principal riiiks are late frosts in tlie spring: which may destroy t'le blossom,
and hail .storms, of which there arc generally one or two in the course of
the summer. The wheat is cut by reaping-michinos, trodden out by mares,
<ind dressed by the wind in the open air. On account of the distance from
Buenos Ayres, wheat cannot be grown profitably to send there, but up to
the present year the quantity grown has not been sufficient to keep the mill
supplied, and (lour is frequently brought from lUienos Ayrcs. Potatoes
grow well ; maize is an uncertain crop, on accc^uut of the early frosts in the
autumn.
'* The communication between here and Buenos Ayres is carried on by
diligences which run four times a mouth, and start from Chascomus, reaching
Tandil on the third day from leaving town. The frontiers of the province
extend from forty to fifty leagues to the south of Tandil. This vast extent
of camp is occupied principally by cattle estancias, the grass being too
coarse for sheep; the cattle when fat are travelled to lluenos Ayres. They
thrive well on these lands, having plenty of room ; but the basiness is an
nncertain one on account of the Indians, but it is to be noted that although the
southern farmers have been practically unprotected during this Paraguayan
war, there have been no extensive raids as in the Provinces of Santa Fe and
Cordoba.
** The great desideratum is the railway, which it is to be hoped will be
carriedon to Tandil.it being the central town of the settled camps of the
south, and all the produce of the country for fifteen leagues on each side
MM2
(80
THE FAR SOOTQ PARTIOOS.
'would find its waj to it ; besides there is but little doubt that as soon as
Tandil with its beautiful scenery and temperate climate became known and
casj of access to t!ie people of Buenos Ajres, it would become a fashionable
Slimmer residence.
*' The principal foreign residents are Mr. J. Fugh, the mill, Tandil ; George
J. Hinde, the Isla Chapaleofii ; R. Ginnis, George Crebbis, J. Crcbbis,R. W.
Burnett, W. F. Goodfello^, W. Osgood, the Macedonia; Mr. A Gebbie, R.
M'Kinlay, A. and S. James, R. M Ausland, Mr. Harrow, Mr. Cooney,
Mr. Leonard, Mr. - Laurie, San Javior. A number of Danes, principalJr
« mplovcd in agriculture, reside near TandiL Most of the store and hotel-
keepers are French, and great numbers of French Basques reside in the
rouutry. The best hotel in Tuidl I is the Cafe de la Piedra; the charge*
are reasonable, and the accommodations good."
The partido comprises the following cstancias : —
N.iinc.
6.
li^a'^ms.
Nrtoc.
s.
LeapfKoi.
M gucns,
12
Auchorena,
....
3
Vela,
12
Machado,
4
(^Tsares, ....
12
Girado,
2
Kd. Lumb,
G
A ranee.
1
(;jnsalcz,
9'
Algauaras,
1
Avalos,
2
Arana,
15
AlmaJa,
li
Iraola,
(i
Pinoro, ....
3
Cordoba,
6
Pa/,
1
Saavcdra,
13
Uamos, . . . •
1
Ramirez,
5
Gtmiez, fatnily,
18
Uriarte,
5
Saenz Valiento,
/
Butler,
i
Lopez, ....
C
Urraco,
li
D.ival
4
Morales,
1
Solauet, ....
4
Ponce Leon,,
1
The Duval estancia, situate on the Arroyo Chapaleofu, was recently sold
at auclion by 3Ir. Biliinghurst for §2.iO,000 per square league, the house«
and corrals being taken at a valuation.
Tandil is situate 10 leagues S.K. of Azul, 28 N. of the mouth of the
Queijucn Grande, 27 N.AV. of Laguna de los Padres, 32 S.\V. of Dolores^
2:i S. of Las Florcs
Justice of Peace, Don Carlos Darragueira; Curate, Rev. Jos6M. Rodriguez;
Postma-ster, D. Xicanor Elizalde. The state-schools are attended by 67
boys and 45 girls. Valuation of lauded property* $30,000,000, agaiast
5;20,000,OOa in 1862, Coutribucion tax §120,000. digitized by GoOQle
BALCARCK.
Balcarcc,
161
Situate seventy-four leagues south of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 210
square leagues, and contains the following cstancias : —
Name.
«Sociedad Rural, »
J. B. Pefta,
S. Lfaguo^.
30
Name. S.
Suarez,
Anchorena, ....
8
9
Lezama,
Pereyra,
15
8
Saenz Valientc, family,
Otaraendi, family, . . .
2i
5
Baudrix,
Peralta Ramos,
Subiaurre, ...,•
Vivot,
11
.... 12^
3
3
Casco, family, ....
Trapani, family,
Campos, family, ....
Escobar,
• 4
10
8
3
Llanos, ....
N. Johnstone,
2
Castclli,
Nero, ....
2^
Burgos,
4
Barragan, ....
2
Bcynoso,
Moyano,
2
1
Luengo, .... ....
Sanchez, .... ....
2
3
Sueldo
4
Amarante, ....
4
Deodria, ....
Castro,
2
1
Ca^Tiet, .... ....
Lobo, ....
1
Islas,
i
Site for town,
li
This is another of the new partidos, and formerly known as Lngiina de
los Padres, Its boundaries are — on tlic east the Atlantic Ocean, on the
north Mar Chiquita, on tlie west Ajacurho, and on the south Lo])cria. The
western boundary runs for some distance dose to the Arroyo Chico. or
Nipaleofu: the southern boundary consists of the Sierra del Villcan, its
branche.s (the sierras Barbosa and Vigilancia), and the Arroyo Chocorl,
wliich falls into the .Atlantic eleven leagues south of Cape Corriontes. The
soiboard extends for fifte<'n leau^urs, taking in Lobcjia Chica, Cape
Conientes, and the mouths of seven large arroyos, viz. : T.a Tigra, Carolina,
BnlhMiera, Totora, Durazno, Brusqnitas, and Chapalmalnn. A great part
of the d strict is occupied by ranges of hills, tlic princi|)al of which are the
Sierra Vulcan and Sierra de los Padres. The former seems a continuation
of the Tandil range, and there is a fertile valley intervening which the
Indians call Vulcan or «the opening, » and hence (says Parish) is derived
the name of the range which runs eastward in a continuous line for thirty-
Bix miles to the sea. ((Towards the north it has the api)earance of a steep
wall: on the summits are extensive ranges of table-land, well watered, and
with good pasturage. At a short distance from the coast the hills break off
t^2 THE FAE SOUTH PARTIDOS.
in ston} ridges, running down to the sea, and forming the headland of Cape
Corrientes, in latitude 38d. Gm., and further south a line of rocky cliffs,
which bounds the shore as far as Cape Andres. » These hills give birth to
most of the streams that irrigate the camps of the partido. Thirty years,
ago this part of the country was over-run by the Indians, but now it is
perfectly secure: the estancias are on a large scale, well stocked with
sheep and cattle, andtheparlido is in fact a large grazing ftirm, from which
are brought every year great herds of cattle for the city markets and the
saladeros. The lands, especially near the sea, are considered the best in
the south..
The estanciaof thcilate Sociedad Rural is now mostly the property of
Messrs. Martinez dc Hoz ; it lies southward of Cape Corrientes, and the coast
abounds in seals (otherwise called sea wolves), which will before long give
rise to a lucrative business in Hie skins and oil of these animals. On the
same land there are also some chalk quarries. On the same line of coast
are the estancias of Otamendi, Campos, Trapani, and Peralta Ramos,
intersected by the arrovos already mentioned. Inland, covering a great
extent of hill country, from Sierra de los Padres to Sierra Barbosa, are the
Saenz Valientc estates; while those of the Suarez family are northward, owl
the Arroyo Dulcc. The large possessions of Pefta, Anchorena, Lezama, and
Uaudrix arc situate on the two chief branches of the Arroyo Grande; the
Estancia San Simon, of Don Leonardo Pereyra, is on the Arroyo Chico, near
the borders of Tandil. The smaller properties of Vivot, Ninian Johnstone,
Llanos, Barragau, Subiaurre, Camet, &c., are in the vicinity of Laguna de
los Padres.
In l"i7 the Jesuits founded a scttlemeot on the lake which still preserve*
their name, situate four leagues inland in a N.W. course from Cape
Corrientes. The site was well chosen, being suitable for an agricultural
establishment, of easy access to the sea, and offering every facility for
defence. The Fathers were unable to reduce the wild pampa tribes to
habits of order and industry, and the establishment was abandoned after tea
years of unavailing labor. Some remains of the buildings, and the fruit
trees planted by the Jesu-ts, still remain. The lake covers about two
square miles in extent, and is sui*rounded by thick plantations. About three
blagues eastward, at the moulh of Arroyo Cardalito, near Loberia Chica, a
site has been marked out for a town, and there is a port suitable for vessel*
of some size. Don Patricio Peralta Ramos has asaladero hereabouts, where
he slau;;hters cattle, mares, and sheep : he expended some money on am
iron mole, which has never been fiuislied, but which was much injured inalp
a heavy btorm last year. ^
LOBKRIA.
18S
Laguna de los Padres is situate 7 leagues S.W. of the Mar Chiquita lake,
20N.E. of the mouth of the Quequen Grande, 75 E.N.E. of Bahia Blanca,
70 E. of the Sierra la Ventana, 27 S.E. of Tandil, and 35 S. of Dolores. It
is four days' journey from town.
Justice of Peace, Don Pedro Bouchet; Postmaster, Don Juan A. Pelia.
Municipal revenue, $23,000.
Loberia.
Situate about seventy-five leagues south of Bueuos Ayres, has an area of
190 square leagues, and comprises the following estancias : —
Name.
S. LeHguo*.
Narao.
8. Leaj^as.
Guerrico, ....
10
E. Diaz Velez,
... 10
S. Valiente, family,
10
Martinez de Hoz & Sous
■>, 10
Peredo, ....
6
Lastra,
ft
Saavedra
6
Luro,
7
Cuesta,
5
Alegre,
6
Cobo, ....
6
Arruda, ....
6
Dasso,
6
Barbosa, family.
9
Castaaera, ....
6
Otamendi,
... 10
Martinez, ....
2
Rico,
3
Sabatt6,
2
Eustaquio Torres,
... U
FaramiAan, ....
.... n
Flores,
3
Quiutana, ....
14
Maldonado,
2
James Gaynor,
2
Pita,
2
Suarez
2
Otero,
2
Gandara,
2
Machado, family.
.5
Gainard Bros.,
2
Ortega,
li
¥. Arze, ....
.... 6
Sotelo,
1
A. Diana,
2
Reynoso Bros.,
3
Carlos F. Casares,
.... 3.i
Pieres,
3
Galiano, ....
.... ■ 2
Picado,
2
Vega Bros., ....
IJ
Albarellos,
2
Muftoz, ....
1
Perez,
1
J. N. Fernandez,
10
Macias, ....
1
The partido is bounded pn the north by the Arroyo Chocorl, whick
separates it from Balcarce, on the west by Tandil, on the south by the
River Quequen Grande, separating Loberia from .Necochea, and on the ewA
Digitized by VrrOOQ IC
18 i THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
by the Atlantic. It has a coast Hue of ten leagues, and here debouch three
large arroyos, the Nutria Mansa, Malacara, and El 3Ioro. The partido^
4ixtends inland twenty leagues, till rcachhig the sierras of Tandil The
Sierra del Vulcan forms the iN.W. boundary. The River Quequen Grande
is fed by a number of large streams, such as the Quequen Chico, Quclacinta,
Mostazas, Los Huesos, TamangueMi, and Arroyo Seco. The Quequen
Grande falls into the Atlantic t'venly-two leajjucs S.W.of Cape Corrientes :
there is a bar at the mouth, but the river has usually, a sulllcicnt depth of
ivater for vessels of some burden. The late Colonel Miguel Martinez de
Hoz ascended the river, in 1861, with the steamboat Buenos Ayres, laden
with cargo, as high as his estancia of El Moro, and returned in tb.e same
way with a cargo of wool and hiiles. This river is one of the most
considerable in the province, and was for many years regarded as the
frontier limit southwards. So late as 1853-5i the Indians caused much
annoyance to the settlers, but now the whole coast is settled as far as Bahia
filanca aud these camps offer ewvy advantage, especially for cattle
farming. Before the formation of the new partidos Loberia had an area of
1,.jOO square leagues, of which onl\ 306 wore held by settlers, the rest
being public land, or rather Indian territory. The camps are rich and
fertile, and famous for raising the largest cattle in the province : in winter
time this partido supplies tiie city mar kct^^ almost exclusively, tlie other
partidos having little or no fat catth^ at that season. The sea coast is lined
^ith sandhills, but the adjacent lands arc very ricli. The land of this
partido is valued from <s(«0.000 to J^250,000 per square league; total
Yaluatiun, $32,000,000; Contribueion tav, $128^000. The rent for camp
is §20,000 per league per annuiu.
The Sociedad Rural had an estancia of t!)irty square leagues situate
between the Arroyo Chocori and El Moro, along the sea coast; part of it
now belongs to Messrs. Martinez de Hoz ; this land is well watered aud
fertile. Kl Encanto belongs to Sefior Cuerrico, and this lies between El
Moro aud the Quequen. The estancias of Cobo, Barbosa, and Arruda are
on the Quequen Chico. Those of Cuesta, Saavcdra, and Otero are on the
borders of Tandil, amidst the hill country ; and at the foot of Sierra Vulcan
y/e find Flores, Alegrc, Sabatte, Castanera, Bier), IVredo, and Saenz
Valientc. In the centre of the partido, tiaversed by the Arroyo Taman-
gueyu,are the estancias of Arze, Otamendi, Machado, Dasso, and others^
The Ccrro Bedondo, on the Faraminan estancw, is a detached group of hills
almost midway between the Sierra Vulcan and the Tandil range. This^
partido, more than any other, abounds in hills and water courses.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
5EC0CHEA. . ISS
The Statistical returns itre— 3,029 Argentines, 139 Spaniards, 50 French,
46 Italians, 15 English, 8 Germans, 78 various ; total 3,365. Ther<5 are 2
houses and I,02i ranchosj including 3 shops and 77 pulperias. Stock —
1, 050,96 i cows, 1 18,780 horses, 3,850 fine slieep, 297,100 mestiza sheep,
87,900 Creole sheep, and 592 swine. It will be remarked that in this
partido cows tire much more numerous than sheep, and as a consequence
few foreigners have as yet settled here. There are 41 chacras, covering
2,000 acres of tilled land. There are 5 alcaldes, 2i tenicntes, and 18
police. It is proposed to build a town, probably at the mouth of the
Quequen Grande, and this point will be distant 88 leagues S. of HueHOS
Ayres, 15 S. of the Sierra Vulcan, 28 S.S.K.of Tandil, 58 E.of BahiaBlanca,
and 20 S.W. of Laguna de los Padres.
Justice of Peace, Don Eustaquio C Torres, who is alsp postmaster.
Nc cache a.
Situate about 80 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos A\res, has an area of 420
square leagues.
This is another of the new partidos, and not yet fully organized : neither
have we any statistical returns, as it was formerly comprehended in the
partido of Loberia. Thebouudaries are — on the N.E. the Quequen rivcr^
which separate? this partido from Loberia ; on the N. the Sierras of Tandil;
on the N.AV. the Azul frontier camps in the direction of Sierra Quillalanquen ;
on the S.W. and S. the partido of Tres Arroyos; and on the S.E. the
Atlantic. The partido has a coast-line of sixteen leagues from the mouth
of the Quequen Grande to that of Arroyo Cristiano Muerto : it extends
inland thirty-two leagues to Fort Otamendi on the Azul frontier It is
watered by the numerous* affluents of the River Quequen and Cristiano
Muerto ; the principal streams are Calaveras, Colangueyu, Pcscado-Casti-
gado, Mendoza, Zavala, and Cortaderas. The country is more level than in
the neighboring partidos : there arc numerous lagoons, of which the largest
is that on the estaucia of Messrs. Herrera, Saavedra & Co. ; there is a hill
called Malaltu(^ in the middle of the lake. Few habitations and little or no
timber are yet seen on these wild camps, which were until recently the
banting-grounds of the Indians. The Diaz Velez territory lies along the
sea-board, south of the Quequen river ; this stream may be forded at Paso
Galisteo, about six leagues from its mouth, and one and a-half below the
confluence of the Quequen Chico : the estancia of Don* Manuel J. CoBo
486
THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
occupies the djlta of the last-named stream and the Quequen Grande :
there is another ford on this estancia, called Paso dc Otero, about six leagues
iiigher up than the Galisteo pass.
The partido cooiprises the following estancias : —
Name.
E. Diaz Velez,
Alzaga,
Anchorena, family,
Areeo^ ....
Hornos, ....
Echeverria,
V. Canal,
Lara, ....
Lanuz & Crisol,
Tobal,
Montes de Oca,
Vasquez,
Rodriguez,
Girado,
Santa Maria,. . . .
Viton, family,
Koque Perez,
Larrosa,
Chaves,
Larriba,
Ezeisa,
Rico,
f^erreyra,
P. ObRgado,. .
Viera & Real,
F. Torres, .
luvaldi,
Olivares,
Raymond Prat,
The large estancia of
by the arroyos Calaveras
of Sierra Tinta and the
Domingucz, and Udaquiola
8. Leagaes.
35
13
12
1-2
12
8
6
7
10
5
4
4
6
3
3
7
6
"^4
6
6
6
5
3
1
Name.
Olivera, family,
Negretto, ....
Arze, family,
Juan N. Fernandez,
Fulco & Rebol,
Cobo, ....
Vela, family,
Lopez,
Iranla,
Lastra', ' . .
Echencgucia,
Udaquiola, . .
Subiaurre, . .
Ramirez,
Casal,
M. Perez,
H<irrera & Co.
Ortiz,
Dominguez, . .
Cafias,
Cornell,
Banza,
Faramiaan, . .
Pizarro,
Rom,
Ortiz,
Casas,
Public lands,
2
2
6
Juan Nepomuccno Fernandez is traversed
and Colangueyu. Near the hilly counlrj
Taadil we find the lands of Vela, Orliz,
The Anchorena property is further west, at a
Leagns*.
18
6
10
30
II
6
22
12
12
16
10
7
3
2
2
6
12
4
3
3
2i
4
2
2
2i
2i
3
16
point called Cinco Lomas. On the Indian frontier we find John Cornell,
Chaves, Larriba, Hornos, and Areco. Returning eastward by the Arroy*
TRES ARROYOS. J 87
Pescado-Castigado we meet on the north of this stream the estates of Iraola,
Lastra, CaQas, and Prat ; south of the stream are Echenegucia, Alzaga,
Lanuz, and Olivera. On the north bank of the Cristiano Maertoare Invaldi,
Torres, Perez, Olivarcs, Ramirez, Subiaurre, Sauta Maria, and Girado. Or
the sea-board there is a lagoon called Saladas, on the estancia of Marcclino
Rodiiguez : the coast is lined with sand hills.
The best site for a town would perhaps beat Paso Otero, on the Qucquea
Grande, about twelve leagues from its mouth ; this point would be thirty-
six leagues E. of Sierra Pilla-Huinco ; 11 S.W. of the Sierra Vulcan; 2*^
W.S.W. of Laguna do los Padres; 19 S. of Tandil ; 38 S E. of Quillalan-
quen : and 52 E.N.E. of Bahia Blanca.
Justice of Peace, Don Luis Somosa ; Postmaster, Don Alberto Marquez ;
Municipal revenue, $9,000
Tres Arroyos,
Situate about 100 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ajres, has an area of about
600 square leagues
This is another new partida, hitherto supposed to belong to Loberia or
Bahia Blanca, but for the most part Indian country. It is now more than
half settled on, and comparatively safe from Indians. The boundaries are,
X.E. the Arroyo Cristiano Muerto; JV. Indian territory; W. the Sierra
Pilla-Huinco; S.W. the river Sauce Grande; aud S.E. the Atlantic. The
coast-line is twenty-four leagues long, from the mouth of the Cristiano
Muerto to that of the Sauce Grande. The rivers Tres Arroyos and Quequen
Salado traverse the whole partido and fall into the Atlantic. There are few
lagoons worth noticing, except that of the Sauce Grande, on the river of
that name, about fourteen leagues E. of the town of Bahia Blanca.
The fort of Tres Horquetas, situate at the confluence of the three branches
which form the Tres Arroyos river (called by tlie Indians aClaro-mecow)
was for some time the utmost point of the south frontier ; and here it is now
proposed to build a town which will be called Olabarria. The estanciaa
marked with an asterisk are situate between this line and Sauce
Grande. The Quequen Salado runs parallel .with the Tres Arroyos, and is
about six leagues further south. The Sauctf Grande passes within eight
leagues E. of the town of Bahia Blanca. The Sierra Pilla-Uuinco, forming
in part the westei^n limit, near the head-quarters of the Sauce Grande, is
distant only twenty leagues from the sea-board ; the Sierra Curamalal i&&
eoutinuatiou of the same range westward; tlie Sierra Ventana lies S.W.
beyond the Sauce Grande, and is about twelve leagues from Bahia Blancaa[g
f88
THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
The highest peak of the Yen tana range, by Fitzroy's measurement is
3,350 feet above the level of t!ie sea, from which it is distant forty-five
miles: it is 2,500 feet above the level of the surrounding plain. Parish
mentions a small stream flowing between the ranges of A'^entana and Cura-
malal, which bears the nam.^ of Ing!es-MaIhuida,fiom the circumstance of an
Knglishjuan having been put to death here by the Indians.
The partido comprises tlie following estaucias : —
Vasfjuez, family,
Elizalde,
8. Lon^iK^s
G
X.imc
Olabarria,
Herrera, ....
S. LeaRU?s
5
Macias, ....
G
Pereyra, family,
0
Soaje Bros., ....
12
Jardin,
. . . . ' r>
Baigorria, ....
G
Viton,
.5
Dantas ....
6
Pintos,
6
j\#ig. Rohl,
Valdoz, Bros.,
Aldao,
G
6
G
Marenco, ....
Jose Lopez,
Guevara,
. . . . 2i
4
3
D. Segui, ....
.... 7
Soler, ....
3
Lefrancois,
5
Subiaurre,
. . . . 5
F. Moreno,
G
Letamendi,
G
Ui-iarto, ....
.... i
Garcia,
0
Vivas, ....
n
.... *>
Bosi^tl & S. Valiento,
4
Norci^^a, ....
2
Perez,
3
Diaz,
5
\M!gu:ns,
15
Appolanes, ....
Duran, ....
George Sanders,
■J
. . . .- 1
:5
*D M^calzi,
*Anchorena,
*Eclienegucia,
.... 12
8
G
Miro, family,
Brizuela, ....
Cardenas,
Bernardos, ....
Casariego, ....
8
3
3
3
3
M:iias,
*Salas& Co., , .
*Ovej oro,
*A!varcz,
'Arzac,
12
15
7
1 >
12
Machaly, ....
2
*Oelum .
12
Genova, family,
Caparros, ....
Bustamante,. . . .
2
1
1
*(:!iiclana,
•Gomez Bros.,
'Saravia, ....
12
12
Rodriguez,
Puyol,
Madero, ....
Casas, family.
G
4
.... 6
8
\\.\Vla,
Telipe Vela,
*Leon Vela, . ... . ^ (^
^ 'Oiqitizedbv V:
Unsettled lands,
G
7
BAHU BLA5JCV. 199
The sivteca cstancias marked with an asterisk are public lands, the holdert
having onl) a squatter's right.
The new town of Olabarria will be 91 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres,
30 S. of Azul, 18 E.S.E. of Sierra Pilla-IIuinco, 30S.W. ofTandil,43\V.S.^.
of Laguiia de los Padres, 10 leagues N. of the mouth of the Tres Arroyoi
on the sea-board, and 32 E.N.E of Bahia Blanca.
Justice of Peace, Don Samuel Roseti; Postmaster, Don l^enigno Macia*.
Bahia Jilafica,
Situate 1 15 leagues S.W. of Bucuos Ayres, may be said to have an area
of 200 square leagues, taking its limits as the following : north the Sierra
Ventana, west the River Sauce Chico, south the bay of Bahia Blanca and
the Atlantic Ocean, and east the River Sauce Grande. This part of the
country, though so remote and little known, offers many advantages to
settlers, either in an agricultural or a pastoral point of view. The high
grounds are usually about 100 feet 'above the level plain, the latter being
little higher than the sea level. The soil of the high ground is mostly fine
and sandy, and beneath this there is tosca, which is useful for limestone, or
may be employed instead of stone in building houses or corrals. la the low*
grounds the soil is rich and allu\ial, and well suited for agriculture':
irrigation is easily obtained. All the quintas of the town are irrigated by
a system of water-works constructed by Rosas in his expedition of 1833, and
it still bears the name aZanja de Bosas.» The cultivation of wheat i*
now attaining such dimensions that the crop for 1809 is estimated at 5,000
fanegas. All kinds of fruit trees thrive here remarkably, especially grai>es,
and from these is made the Chocoli wine. Nevertheless, the climate h
somewhat cold, though more temperate than at Taudil, where peaches
cannot ripen. Snow is seen at fare intervals, once in three or four years.
The tempu*taturc is dry and windy, and it rains less than at Buenos Ayres :
the iN.W. wind is the most frequeuJt. On the high and desert camps the
grasses arc «pastos fuertes,)> which grow so wide apart that in wet seasons
jk soft grass springs up here and there between. The low grounds abound
in soft grasses, viz. : alfilerillo, trefoil, trevo de olor, and gramilla: there
is not much burr. When land has been three or four years stocked with
sheep and cattle the vegetation changes, the «pastos fuerte8» gradually
disappear, and are replaced by soft grass, thistles, trefoil, &c.
Digitized by VrrOOQlC
190 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
•
Timber is indigenous; ^villows of the «sauce coloradow species arc found
on the banks of the Sauce Grande and Sauce Chico, suitable for building or
firewood. In the salt marshes near the coast abounds a shrub called
Matorro, very good for burning; and on the high grounds are found various
kinds of brushwood, such as chafiar, piquillin, algarobillo, brusquilla,
barba de chivo, manco caballo, &c. Kear Salina Chica, about fifteen leagues
west of Bahia Blanca, there is an abundance of timber, the algarroba being
much sought both for firewood and for making corral posts.
This district is one of the most favored in the province as regards an
abundance of water courses. A number of fresh water streams flow from
the Sierra Veutana through the low grounds, never running dry at any
season. The salt bed of Salina Chica supplies excellent salt, which is
gathered in siynmcr : fortunately a stream of fresh water runs hard by, for
the usjb of men and animals; there is also fresh water on the road to
Salinas.
The tv»wn of Baliia Blanca stands two leagues from the port. The
entrance to the ba\ is easy; there was a pilot in the time of Rosas, and one
is now m;ich wanted. The communication by sea with Buenos Ayres is a
gieat advantag<», the usual freight being $3 to §5 |)er arrobe. The steamer
Palagoncs, for which Vu^uirre ik Murga receive a subvention, neglects Bahia
Blanca, aud it is p.opo-it d to ask Government for half the subvention and
p»t on a stciim^r sp Tiall,> for this pjrt. The district of Bahia Blanca has a
population of aiiout 2,000 souls, of whom three-fourths reside in the town :
they may be estimat; d thus — 1,200 Argentines, 200 Indians, 200 Italians,
100 Spaniards, 50 French, 50 English and Germans, 200 various. There
are 177 azotea houses and only 170 ranches. The garrison usually cam-
prises 200 soldiers and 120 National Guards, besides which the «friendly
Indians)) forma company of seventy lances : these last are under the cacique-
Francisco Ancalas, who ranks as a lieutenant-colonel, and whose eldest sou
holds a respectable post in the Government-house at Buenos Ayres. The
Indians of Salinas Grandes frequently come to the town to barter their
home-made pDuchos and the skins of animals and ostrich feathers.
The history of Bahia Blanca is quite modern. In 1 828 the fort was founded
by Colonel Martiniano Rodriguez, who had already founded Tandil. The
garrison suffered greatly from privation, sickness, and the Indians, till
1833, when Rosas came into power. The fort was soon changed into atown,.
a regular service of post-horses was established in all directions, and
couriers plied at certain intervals to and from Buenos Ayres. The desert
camps were speedily covered with cattle and mares, and all the arable
lands up to the Sauce Grande were laid under grain. Business crew up.
Digitized by r^ .
BAHIA DLAJXCA. 191
and Messrs. Vela and other wealthy estancieros came and founded large
establiJihncents. The fall of Rosas in 1852 was attended with a terrible
change; the Indians everywhere spread desolation, carrying their inroads
into the very public square of the town : they burned tho ranches, killed
the settlers, and carried off the cattle, so that soon the neighboring hill-
sides were occupied by gamas and ostriches. An attempt was made to get
up an Italian Agricultural Legio i, but the leader was murdered by his mcn^
and this failed. 3Ir.Dasso projected an Italian colony on the Sauce Grande ;
the first families that were brought out refused to go further than the town.
It was only in 1803 that the first efforts were made to re-people the estancias
around the town. The Naposta valley was the first place seltlcd on, as it
was suitable for sheep, and these offer little temptation to the Indians.
Instead of ranchos the settlers built substantial brick houses with flat roof
and a parapet all round, a ladder from within giving access thereto in case
of danger. A man with a rifle can in this manner defend himself and also
his sheep corral without the least risk. The settler is exposed to lose his
horses unless he tie them up at night, which will oblige him to plant alfalfa
and keep a stock of hay.
The first sheep-farmers were : Sig. Caronli, a native of Como ; Messrs.
Heusser and Claraz, from Switzerland, who settled in 180 'i, in the INaposla
valley, four miles from the town. In 1805 came Mr. Arnold, a North
American, also in the IVnposta; in I860 tlic well-known estancicro Mr.
Richard iVewton started a farm on tlic Sauce Grand* ; in 1868 came also to
the Sauce Grande, Jlossrs. Ilentze, of Saxony, and the following English-
men:— John and Arthur Mildred, Edmund Goodhall, Bryan Smjth, Henry
Edwards, Robert Grieve, John Sinclair, Watson, and Shuttle. On the
Sauce Chico the first settler was Sig. Bozano, a native of Genoa; on the
Saladillo Mr. Philip Caronti; and finally in I8[>8 the famous Basque
estanciero Don Pedro Luro, with his brothers-in-law, F. and T. Pradcr^
started an establishment at the Naposta. There are at present over
100,000 .sheep in the district. The climate being dry the wools are light
and not very greasy, but the sheep give more grease when killed than in
the north, and the increase of the flocks is spmething extraordinary; severe
weather being rare there is little mortality of sheep from this cause, except
when a night of hard frost occurs, and then some lambs perish.
In the present time, when wool and sheep are low, while land is so dear
in the rest of the pro nnce, no district offers better advantages for new
beginners than Bahia Blanca and Patagones. The cheap and ready transport
afforded by sea renders the price of all necessaries of life, such as provisions
and clothing, much cheaper than in any other part of the can^^QAs soou
igi ize y ^
102 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS.
as foreign trading vessels can come here direct, and load and unload along-
side the wharf, the price of imported goods will be cheaper than at Buenos
Ayrcs. The cheapness of freight to Buenos Ayres also enhances the value
of wool, which sells here at double the price obtainable at Tandil. Mean-
time there is an anomaly in the wheat-trade; the wheal is mostly sent to
C'lenos Ayres, and flour is brought back thence for use of the Inhabitants;
there are at Bahia Blanca some aatahonasw or mills worked by mules, and
a water-mill on the Naposta, somewhat out of repair. Near the town of
AzjLil there are some large water-mills wiiich drive a brisk business; it ii»
every way likely that a similar enterprise at Bahia Blanca would pay well:
the Naposta has always a splendid water power, and with the outlay of a
little capital the annual crop of 5,000 fan.?gas of corn might be ground oo
the spot instead of belug exported to Buenos Ayrcs. The district, moreover,
^offers every advantage to industrious puesteros who wo:!ld devote their
leisure hours to cultivating a patch of wheat, maize, zapallos, or
vegetables.
There is at Bahia Blanca an unpretending inn, but Englishmen usually
put up at the house of 3Ir. George Little, a North American, who has one of
the best shops in the place. The Comandante, Colonel Josi Llano, is also
very kind to strangers, as well as the Justice of Peace, Don Mariano Mendez,
and Captain Coronti. The principal wholesale houses are those of Francisco
Bozano, Mariano Mendez, Galvan & Co., Julian Calvente, Miranda, and B.
Costa. Parties wanting waggons may apply to Santiago Bonfiglio or Manuel
Echagues, the first a Lombard, the second a Basque ; both arc worthy of
^11 confidence, and their charges are reasonable. Tliere are no livery
«tables in the place, but if the stranger wish to make an excursion he must
look up Hypolito Bramajo, Cayetano Arze. or J. Bustos, who have always
fine relays of hors'es at a reasonable charge: these men are e\perienced
guides and most trustworthy fellows. If the visitor wish to push hia
excursions some distance into the Indian country he will do well to hire an
Indian guide, and the most trust- worthy are Pedro Lucero and Jos6 Andres
Milipil; the latter is brother-in-law to the Cacique Ancalao. These -men
also serve as guides in making the journey overland to Patagones, a distance
of over forty leagues. Tlie traveller must be careful in hiring any other
guide than the above-named, unless Mell recommended by Mr. Little, Senor
Coronti, or tlie Justice of Peace.
Bahia Blanca is only il5 leagues overland from Buenos Ayres, but the
distance by sea is double. The land journey is so tedious and difiicalt a»
seldom to be undertaken : there is no mail-coach service. The sea voyage
\aries according to the weather, and may be reckoned at five days. ^^ ^
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Justice of Peace, l>oa Exeqniel BeiA de Azaa; Postmaster, JOoti Sinto
JLaspiar. Monicipal revenne, $16,000. The state schools are attended by
54 boys and 42 girls. The port retarns shoivv 21 ressels, with 1,665 tons
burden.
Patagofies.
Situate 160 leagues from Buenos Ayres, comprehends the tail-end of the
South American continent, from the Rio Negro to the Straits of Magellan,
between the 41st and 53rd degrees of south latitude, and 65 and 72 west
longitude, the eastern boundary being the Atlantic, and the western a
snowy range of mountains called Cordillera de Nieve, a prolongation of the
Andes chain. This vast territory is about six times the extent of England :
it is as yet for the most part unexplored.
The first impressions of the Rio Negro, as the traveller proceeds up the
river towards the port of El Carmen, are highly agreeable: the bluffs on
the north side are about 150 feet high, and the valley is about two leagues
wide, the river winding its way picturesquely between the cuchlUas of
sandstone. Mr. Harris had a sandstone quarry from which he got material
for sidewalks.' There is also plenty of tosca andanargillaceous clay proper
for making tiles, as also a' layer of chalk, of pure crystalline aspect an«^
great extent, on the north side of the river. There are numerous petrift**^ ^
tions of marine substances. Ascending the cuchilla we come upon avast
plain, in some places sandy, in others of argillacious soil, and^ again covered
with small pebbles called «piedras chinas. » The vegetation is mostly of
icpastos fuertes» intermingled with cralfilerillo, » and here and ther^ a number
of thorny thrubs, such as «chafiar,» ((piquilfin,» «algarroba,i> ccmata-perro,*
«una de gato,)) «maqui de incienso:)) this last gives a resin which when
burnt yields an odor like incense. These shrubs seldom grow higher than
a man on horseback, altheugh the ({chanar)i trees often give good spade and
axe handles. The brushwood is no obstacle to horses or cows, but it tean^
the wool off sheep.
The soil in the valley is of rich alluvial deposits, sometimes a little salty,
and is fertilized by the river, vrtiich has two annual floods, one in sum-
mer from the melting of the snows of the Andes, the second and greater one
in winter from the rains in the same mountain ranges. In 1830 there was &
dreadfiil inundation, but the floods are generally harmless and beneficent,
filling the lagoons and old beds of streams, which keep the water for the
rest of the year. "Bain is rare, and the climate may be called drff7-^^i^
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I9f THE I^ SQJVf^ PAATIDOS.
TI>fre is,iip,^rt|Of the pronriix^^vr^ece^rqes tjbriy:e Mnnjell. as* .^re, and
.thetraYeller ie;5tc^ctby t)]t^rowf: of; poplars aii4 fruitftpffi^s ou «)1; aides,
espcciailj is the islan49 of the river. The y\np do^ i^mawkablj well, and
the Chocoli wine would be much better if more care were takea withr this
industry. The rivers and lagoons are lined with indigenous willows,
called «Sauce Colorado :» the wood-cutters make (cba|8as)>of this timber,
which they sell at El Carmen, as it is very useful for corral posts, building,
&c. These posts last sii or seven years, and would last longer if the ends
were burned. Fences are also often made of chaAar brandies. This
abundance of timber is a great gain, and renders building very cheap: Beeds
and straw abound in tbe lowlands*, and good roofs are also mfide of young
willow branches tied together and covered with twa or three layers of mud
and chopped straw. The river in winding through the valley formsanwnber
of ccrinconesu of amazing fertility, which are easily fraced in for grazing
and agricultural purposes.
Of all tlie settlements attempted by the old fi^niards <^n the. shores of
Patagonia, that of tbe Hio^^^gro or Patagones is the only (me now exiating.
It was founded in the close of the last ceqtury, and suffered at first panj
difficulties. Being cut off from all contact with the exterior worid, the
inhabitants still preserve a distinct type fropi the Buenos Ayreans. In 1833,
when Rosas made bis great expedition ta tbe dj^sert, he ^ave a great and
sudden impulse to Patagones ; he distributed cattle and agricultural iipple-
ments among th^ poor inhabitants, garrisoned the islau^ of Cholecboel| and
founded a new town called Guardia Constitucion. The plac« b^ingthus
protected, cattle multiplied amazingly i and the salt deposits were soon in
full work. 8aliua del Ingles is situate near the coast, Salina de Piedra
eight leagues noith of tlie town, and Salina de Espuma five leagues W.N.W.
of the town, about half a league from the river. At the same time the
saladeros were in full p|ay, wh^at was sown on a great scale, and
everything promised well. The fall of Rosas br(^ught>a great dumge : the
Indians devastated the wboio country,, and the Cacique Yangaetruz boasted
that he would reduce the wretched inhabitants c(to live on hares' flesh. »
He kept his word to the letter, for the poor people had actually to subsist
for a time on bares. The present Gomandante, Don Julian Murg^, under-
took to revive the effvrt^ of Ro8a^,Jbie made peace with the* Iivl^^ns, built a
fort called Guardia Mitre, abQut fifteen leagues above Patagones, br4>Qght a
stock of 60,400 sheep intotiie valleySt.and recently start^ a saladera and
sheep-graseria. £(e. proposes to take possession! fgainijof .^he island of
Clioleciioely.w^ich is an important strategic .point. Tbe <f8ajbiasj» of La
Piedia and La Espuma are now in full work ; and tJie vf beat crop is even
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PATAGomes. 195
larger tbdti at Bahia Blanca. *fhe pr6sent'p6polatioti counts over 3 ,000 souls,
of wliom more than half ure in the town. Houses in thie camp are strongly
rebuiit to resist any Indian for^y. A pilot is posted at the mouth of the
river^ and the maritime ti^fBc Is more than double that of Bahia Blanca:
the traders go to Bdenos Ayres, freight a vessel with their wares, and send
back a return CArgo of salt or idieat . There is a small steamboat on the Bio
Negro, and it is intended to make heir ran as high as GholechoeL Maize^
zapalloft, ttielobs, potatoes, &c., do remarkably well. Sheep thrive notably.
There i& at group of seventeen Italian families on'the south bank, opposite
China Wu^i't^ : ttiey make excellent hams and cheese. After these the first
settlers in the valley ^ere — Messrs. Hensser and Claraz, natives of Switzer-
land, who parchiased the lands of China-Muerta and Paso-Falso on the north
bank, about ten leagues firdm Patagones : these are the finest lands in the *.
Rio Negro: they bought inestiza sheep from Don Pedro Luro^ses tan cia, and
made an establishment which has now no rival im the district, whether in
sheep-breeding, agriculture, milch cows, or curing of meat : tlieir bacon
and mutton hams have ready sale in Buenos Ayres, and they have sent some
samples to Europe, which promise them a good, market there also. After
these gentlemen some Englishmen came to buy lands, and have now
flourishing establishnents, viz : Frazer Bros., Greenstreet, Everett, and '
Kincaid. Besides there are three Welsh colonists: Watkin Williams, E.
Price, and J. Jones. There arc in Patagones two kinds of sheep ; the
Pampas are large, robust, and long-wooled : they were brought hither by
the Indians from Chile, and have some afiinity to deer. The meat is very
savoury. The ewes have often twin-lArabs, which they rear witJiout any
difficulty. This race would answer well for crossing with smooth-wooled
sheep, and Messrs. Kincaid are going tocross them with English breeds. The
second kind of sheep in Patagones is the ordinary mestiza breed.
Visitors to Patagones will find every comfort at the inn of Don Guiseppe
Avenentc, an Italian, whose charges arc moderate ;• another excellent hotel
has recently been opened by Mr. Thomas Deacon, a German. If jou want
horses or guides apply to Mr. Avenente. The best guide is Cochengo
Piedra-Bueila, but we can also recommend Urefio and Agustin Sosa.
Waggons arc difficult to obtain unless at exorbitant rates : for the south
*ide apply to Solano Alderete, San Javier, or the Italians in front of Chiua-
Mujrta ; most of the latter reside in -the town^ The Bio Negro divides
Patagones into two distinct towns: the commercial and old town is on the
porth ^e, comprising the wholesale houses of Aguirre and Morga, Abate,
Dasso, ^scarelo, &c. On the south side lived Mr. Sheilef^^@(^Q|g
Palkl4nd\ialidg, whose beautiful quinta now belongs to tlie English^
196 THE FAB SOUTH PABTIDOS.
Mission: on this side also is the English Church, where Dr. Humble
practises both in medicine and divinity, and keeps a free school and m
well-stocked dispensary for the use of poor and rich. The usual charges-
for freight to and from Buenos Ayres are Sf.5 to $f.6 per ton. The many ,
advantages of Patagones render it suitable for new beginners. The settler
who has a good rifle and well-built house' may laugh at the Indians ; and
this part of the country is wholly free from political commotions. Land is
cheap, freight is /cheap, timber and water abound, and sheep may be
reared here at better profit than elsewhere. For further details ai>ont
Patagones see Chap. VI., page 53 of Section A., in which is also a full
account of the Welsh Colony on the River Chupat. The tradf^ returns of
Patagones for the year show 28 vessels with 3,9i5 tons burden. The
stat^-schools are attended by 52 boys and 35 girls; a new school-house i^
being built. Justice of Peace Don Domingo de Oro ; Post-master Don Ignacio
Leon.
A new settler in the partido thus describes it : —
«I owe toColonel[Murga's kindness having had the opportunity of making
an excursion as far as the c(Guardia Mitre. » I have therefore seen the
Rio Negro from its mouth to the town of Carmen de Patagones (eight
leagues,) and thence to the Guardia (seventeen leagues,) making twenty-
five leagues of its course. The left or south side is flat and low, with high
ground at a considerable distance, the exact extent of which I dare not
calculate for .fear of being wrong. The north side is also flat near to the -
water as the south side ; the low ground is, however, much narrower, and
is bounded by a range of hillocks of tosca and sand of no great height
(from four to ten metres.) The river is full of islands of different sizes,
most of which are private property. Tlie natural vegetation is vigorous,
both in the islands and near the banks of the river. The red willow is
TCry abundant here, and although white poplar is also to be found, it has
all been i laated. The soil is in general very fertile, even to the top of the
hillocks, but with the exception of some of the lower parts, the hand
of man has not turned it to use. 1 have had but little opportunity of
examining the higher ground, and this only on the northern side. The
camp there is covered with chaflares not very high, alpataco, piquillin,
jarrilla, and in a word with all the plants that are found in the vicinity of San
Juan and Slendoza. In the lower, part there is cliilca, rushes, &c., as in
Cuyo. Grass is generally very abundant everywhere, but it is not so thick
on the higer ground.
aThe soil on the plateau is sandy and loose. On the banks of the r^^^lp
gravel and round pebbles increase the [higher one ascenas. It i ^^^^
PATAOOlfBS^ 197
in the islands and in the lower ground near the banks of the river that
cultivation is carried on. Some people work hard, but badly, and not
with much success, on account of the scarcity of hands. Hard-working
people form the exception, and not the rule. The drawbacks to contend
against are the locusts, the drought at certain seasons, and the excessive
rains at others, when, for instance, the wheat is still in the threshing-
ground causing considerable damage, as has happened this year. The
locust is not of that large kind which sometimes comes from the desert in
enormous flights, darkening the light of the sun and destroying everything
that is green wherever they alight. What we are plagued with is of
a small size, does not fly high or far, and seems to reproduce Itself in the
same places where it commits its devastations. It would be very desirable
to find the means of extermlnptiilg this mischievous insect. As far as
the drought is concerned*, the means to guard against it are extremely
simple : they are at this moment being put to the test, and I think will very
soon be of general application. I have said that the cultivated lands-
are the islands and the low grounds in the vicinity of the river's banks.
The river has suflicient fall to allow of canals being made at any point,
without the necessity of cutting through rocks or overcoming gradients;
so much so that it is a matter of wonder that a system of artificial irrigation
by means of canals, having been successfully applied in Bahia lilanca,,
nobody has thought of doing the same in Patagones. At present, Messrs.
Nieva and Tonsua, both San Juaninos, are endeavoring to establish this
system, and I feel certain that they will soon obtain the most complete
success. Farmers will then be independent of the eventualities of rain,
and 1 leave it to you to judge of the great importance of this matter.
Moreover, any one that can and will irrigate his crops can secure his
harvest several days sooner than he who depends upon the uncertainty of
rain, and thus be able to get through his harvesting operations before the
autumn rains set in. It would not be diflBcult to find protection from*
the latter by making use of the timber that grows so abundantly along the
river, and constructing sheds wher^ thrashing might be carried on by '
machinery, and under cover.
aWithout venturing to state it as a certainty, since I have only lately
become acquainted with the country, it seems to me that the greatest
drawback here is the scarcity of laborers, and the slovenly way in which
the few who do work get through a very small amount of Work. The
garrison here is not very numerous, yet if their Commandant were not;
to give leave to a portion of his soldiers to work, the want would severely Ic
affect the amount of production.))
196 THE ISLlIfDS OP THIV PARANA.
CHAP. XI.
THE ISLANDS OF THE PARANJA.
Mot far from the city of Boenos Ayres, ou the northern side, Tvlierc the
wat^s of the Paranii and Uruguay mingte, forming one wid« eStuary,
which, flowing majestically iiifto the Atlhotic, takes the name of Rio de la
Plata, or Rifer Plate— the i^aters of tlie Parana debouch into the latter
by innumerable arms, foi^midg a perfect network of canals and islafnd^,
which covers a vast extent of territory. It is what is known as the Delta
or Islands of the Paran{l« a spot upon which nature, with a bountiful hand,
has lavished all her treasures. There may be other spots on the face of
the globe more picturesque, owing to a more varied scenery and more
romantic landscape by^hich nature adorns a broken and jnountainous soil,
but none can surpass these islands in the luxury of their ever verdant
beauty, the purity of air and water, the abundance and charms of their
innumerable canals and streamlets, the fertility of the soil, and the
plentifuluess and delicious flavor of their fruit.
It was on the 8th of September, 1855, that a party recruited from
amoni> the notabilities of the time, embarked at the Tigre in the Captain
of the Port's cutter, and under the guidance of Don Antonio Somcllera,
then Captain in the naval service, proceeded to explore the spot of which
they had heard such glowing descriptions. Among others the party
consisted of Colonel B Mitre (afterwards Brigadier General and President
of the Republic,) C. Pellegrini and S. Arcos, engineers, Crosa and Monra,
members of the San Fernando Municipal J^oard, Sarmiento, Col. Albarracin,
Torres, &c.
The expeditioners were charnjed with all they saw, and brought back
such a favorable report that the public^ fired by Sr. Sarmiento's able
writings in the «Kaclonal,» seized with enthusiasm th6 project of the
colonisation oftbo islands, and people of all classes rushed to become
the happy possessors of an ishnd. • Before the end of that year the
following names had registirod their title deeds in the Juzgado of San^lc
Fernando : —
' JIEWSBnUBISr ^ 199
' GA*^H!€l)jir'.|lI5I.
'€4^nal' de Ztffan.
Miguel P^omdes, l*<e»46ro J. ^^Amestra, Ftorentkio Pifiero, Ladiblao
Piftero, Joaquin Gountra, Doroteo Blanco, Ciri^co Roja^, Juan Bojas,
Santos Novas, Juan Pondal, Jacobp Parrayi(uni, Antonio Olivera, Domingo
Iparraguirre.
Canal del Toro.
Miguel Melo, Antonio Obligado, Jacinto Gonzalez, Antonio Silra,
Eugenio Seide, Carlos Reyes, Fernandez Reyno.
Canal de tarapachay.
Estauislao Franco, Wencesiao Navarro, Martin Rodriguez, Gil Mender,
Maximo Bros, Maximo Garaboa, Jose Yrretraregui, Felipe Harana, Domingo
Trelles, Joaquin Silva, Jose Bargas, Antonio Bargas, Francisco Alvarez,
Manuel Guardia, Patricio Bookey, La Crosse, Fortunato Poncel, Pedro
Jose Diaz, Florencio Pondal, Lorenzo Torres, J. Barros Pazos, Santiago
Klappenbach, Bortolome Leloir, Juan Basterelli, N. Klappenbach, Hilari^^
Almeida, Augusto Fabier, Nicomedes Reynal.
Canal dti CemJbao.
Francisco Bojas, FraiK^isco Varela, Jx)^^ MariaRomero.
^wal del Torito.
JufLq ValensEuela, Francisco Buiz.
Canal de la Enpera.
Monica Barraza, Anaoleto <:;arneiro.
Canal de la Esperita,
Angel Crosa, Feliciano Blanco, Andres Gomez.
Canal de la Abra Nueva.
Marcos Sastre, Miguel Casal, Pio Crosa, Ezequiel Cordoba, Manuel Monra,
p. F: Sarmieiito, Juan Jos6 Alsina, Pedro Villarino, Reyes Sagaste, Federic«
Toledo.
Canal de la Abra Vieja.
Benjan^in Sastr^, Harjuogenes Salguero,. Eduardo Vega, Bernardo Correa,
MiguelOtero, Juan 4e los Santos, Leon Bordon, Jose Gutierrez, Antonio
Cueto, Pedro Soto.
Canal de la Rama Negra.
Fernando Jaren, Emilio Furquc, Santiago Aibaracin, Jos6 Cordero.
Canal de. Calves.
Antonio Obligado, Juan Mufloz, Manuel Garango, Jos6 Manuel Moreno,
Roque Petrochi, Gumesindo Arana, Alejandro Franco.
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200 THE i8LAlll>§ OV THE PAKANiL.
Canal del Cajritan.
Hilar io Ascasubi, Jos6 Ramon Oguela, Bemigio Gonzalez Moreno, Antonie
Gonzalez Moreno, Santiago Lacasa, Jna^i B«mas,iSantiago Arcos^ Francisco
Bioto, Luis Villarga.
CARAPAYCHAY GUA2V.
Parand de las Palmas.
Manuel Ferreyra, Mariano Sarratea, Ramon Mancilla, Tesdoro Zabnela,
Federico Carril, Manuel Fernandez, Manuel Pazos. Mateo Beovide, Santiago
Yarte, Fernando Ramos, Miguel Ri vas, Fernando Vazquez, Domingo Martinez,
Leblanc, Antonio Dodero, Antonio Dunoyer, Pablo Nongier, P. Maria
Nongier, Mariano Delfino, Samuel Hale, Cayctano Caumartin, Miguel Nero,
Maria Lienferts, Pastora Torres, Nicolas Calvo, Eustaquio Riestra, Augusto
Riestra, Emilio Agrelo, Hermenegildo Riestra, Pedro Carreras, Jna&
Connell, Jos6 M. Bentillo, Joaquim Homos, Julian Martinez, Bernardo
Llenfert, &c., ifec.
The enthusiasm of the great majority of those who by Sarmiento's power-
ful writings and impressive preaching attempted the colonization and
cultivation of these favored islands, was not of long duration, and most of
them, after planting a few poplars and willows, gradually forgot the
existence of their property. Among the few exceptions is to be counted aa
enterprising Frenchman, a gardener by profession and inclination, Mr.
Brunet, whose large island on the Canal del Toro may even now serve as a
model of flower and vegetable gardening. At considerable trouble and
expense'he has succeeded, after struggling for years with the difficulties
natural to the locality and those common to all new settlements, in making
up his island an immense and highly productive nursery garden for almost
every specie of the vegetable kind, from the most rare tropical plants and
valuable fruit-trees to tlie last variety of common domestic cabbage and
j)otato. Mr. Brunet keeps a store in the /city, in Calle Reeonquista, where
he always keeps on hand a large supply of plants, fruit, and vegetables, the
latter being daily conveyed by a canoe to the Tigre, and thence to town by
the Northern Railway. In February, 1869, Mr. Crabtree, manager of the
Northern Railway, at the very low price of $89,000, purchased an island.
Five years ago the late Mr. Henry Harratt, and two other Englishmen, al»o
bought an island.
END OF VOL. I.
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