THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID
THE HANDBOO
TO THE
of
THE HANDBOOK
TO THE
RIVERS AND BROADS
OF
CMV r YY o iCy rv YY
Norfolk & jwtffaw.
BY
a. CHEISTOPHEE DAVIES,
\i
Author of "Norfolk Broads and Rivers," '" The Swan and her Crew," <£c., dc.
REVISED AND ENLARGED
EIGHTEENTH EDITION.
JARBOLD AND SONS,
3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;
LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.
®2' KING STREET' GREAT YARMOUTH J
BRANCHES '
THE LIBRARY, CROMER.
(All riyhts reserved.)
JARROLDS' " HOLIDAY" SERIES.
Crown 8vo, cloth elegant, 2/6 ; or illustrated boards, I/-.
Summer in Broadland ; or, Gipsying in Norfolk Waters. 4th
Edition. Profusely Illustrated by the Gipsies.
History and Legends of the Broad District. Beautifully
Illustrated. By E. R. SUPPLING, Author of " The Land of
the Broads," etc.
How to Organize a Cruise on the Broads. By E. R. SUPPLING,
Author of "History and Legends of the Broad District."
Illustrated.
Sandringham, Past and Present. By MRS. HERBERT JONES.
With 12 Illustrations of the Neighbourhood, etc.
Rambles in East Anglia. By HARRY BRITTAIN, Author of
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trations. By One Familiar with Both. Cr. 8vo, cloth, 2/6.
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Suffolk. By G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES. New and Revised
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JARROLD A SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, London, E.G.
COKTEHTS.
Cltapter Page
INTRODUCTION ... ... ... ... 11
I. THE BROAD DISTRICT ... ... ... 17
II. DOWN THE YARE— NORWICH TO REEDHAM ... 22
III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH ... ... ... 43
IV. YARMOUTH TO ACLE ... ... ... ... 51
V. ACLE TO WROXHAM ... ... ... ... 67
VI. WROXHAM BROAD ... ... ... ... 68
VII. WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL ... ... ... 75
VIII. UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM ... ... 81
- IX. WOMACK BROAD ... ... ... ... 91
X. HICKLING BROAD ... ... ... ... 98
XI. HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD ... ... 106
XII. BACK TO YARMOUTH... ... ... ... 114
XIII. YARMOUTH TO SOMERLETTON, UP THE WAVENEY ... 117
XIV. FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BEOCLBS ... ... 124
XV. OULTON BROAD ... ... ... ... 129
XVI. OBMESBY AND FRITTOM .136
$348661
CONTENTS.
APPENDIX.
Page
RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS ... ... 138
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT ... ... 143
TABLES or EIVEB DISTANCES ... ... ... 14»
TIDES ... ... ... ... ... 151
FISHING GENERALLY ... ... ... ... 151
ROACH ... ... ... ... 155
BREAM ... ... ... ... 161
YACHTING ... ... ... ... 165
SHOOTING AND SKATING ... ... ... 170
FAUNA OF THE BROADS 171
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page
WROXHAM BROAD ... ... ... Frontispiece
A POOL IN SURLINGHAM BROAD ... ... ... 16
PULL'S FERRY ... ... ... ... .., 23
BISHOP'S BRIDGE ... ... ... ... ... 25
BOOM TOWER ... ... ... ... ... 26
THORPE GARDENS ... ... ... ... ... 27
A NORFOLK WHERRY ... ... ... ... 31
ON THE YARE, AT BRAMERTON ... ... ... 33
ON ROCKLAND BROAD ... ... ... ... 37
LANGLEY DYKE ... ... ... ... ... 38
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, GREAT YARMOUTH ... ... 41
THE QUAY, GREAT YARMOUTH ... .. .. 45
A "Row," GREAT YARMOUTH ... ... ... 49
ST. BENET'S ABBEY ... ... ... ... .. 55
COTTAGE, SOUTH WALSHAM BROAD ... ... ... 59
HORNING VILLAGE ... ... ... ... ... 60
RANWORTH CHURCH ... ... ... ... 61
HORNING FERRY ... ... ... ... ... 67
BELAUGH CHURCH ... ... ... .. ... 74
DYKE NEAR COLTISHALL ... ... ... ... 77
LUDHAM BRIDGE 78
X ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page
RIVER BURE AT HAUTBOIS ... ... ... ... 79
A WOODLAND POOL — IRSTEAD ... ... ... 83
ENTRANCE — BARTON BROAD ... ... ... ... 85
CARRYING REEDS— BARTON ... ... ... ... 88
BARTON STAITHE ... ... ... ... ... 90
ORMESBY BROAD— LANDING STAGE ... ... ... 91
DRAINAGE MILL — RIVER THURNE ... ... ... 92
RIVER THURNE ... ... ... ... ... 93
HICKLING BROAD ... ... ... ... ... 99
DYKE AT POTTER HEIGHAM ... ... ... ... 101
HICKLING STAITHE ... ... ... ... ... 104
MARTHAM BROAD ... ... ... ... ... 105
SOUND ASLEEP ... ... ... ... ... 109
SOMERLEYTON HALL ... ... ... ... ... 121
RIVER WAVENEY ... ... ... ... ... 128
OULTON BROAD ... ... ... ... ... 131
FRITTON DECOY ... ... ... ... ... 137
ORMESBY BROAD— LANDING STAGE 153
INTEODUCTION.
SINCE the first appearance of this Handbook, and the
larger volume on the same subject, which the preface to
the first edition stated to be in contemplation, the Broad
District has become highly popular. Each year the
tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is still plenty
of room. No doubt some of the old habitues, who liked
to have the whole landscape to themselves, grumble at
the change, but the less selfish persons, who happily
constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a dozen
yachts where formerly they saw but one, or a score of
anglers where in past years but half-a-dozen might be
seen.
A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats,
and pleasure wherries for cruising purposes ; but the inn
accommodation has made little advance, and is still too
meagre, and insufficient for the demand. The yachts
have made great strides in speed and in number. The
Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club has flourished exceed-
ingly, and its regattas are popular.
Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery
X INTRODUCTION.
of the Broads, and visit us in great numbers. Notably
Mr. E. H. Fahey and Miss Osborn have given exhibitions
in London devoted to the district. Then litterateurs
without number have written magazine and newspaper
articles, and others, after a few days' scamper, have
written exhaustive guide-books ; and so the ball, which
the present writer set rolling in earnest some years ago,
is helped merrily forward, and the Kivers and Broads of
Norfolk and Suffolk are fast becoming one of the most
popular of English playgrounds.
I should like to put the brake on a little in one respect.
One guide-book writer appears to treat the riverside
meadows as commons, and suggests that yachtsmen
should bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket materials with
them. Pray don't take such absurd advice. All riparian
owners adhere stoutly to their just rights. It must be
remembered that the rights of the public are limited to
passage along the navigable rivers and the navigable
broads, and the use of the banks of navigable waters for
mooring purposes and for towing. The soil of the
greater part of the river-beds is vested in the Crown,
therefore angling is free to the public. Strictly speak-
ing, the shooting over the Crown rivers is free, but this
does not give persons a right to shoot an inch over
the banks. Looking to the fact that the Bure is very
narrow, and passes through private game preserves, let
me earnestly entreat visitors not to fire off guns either
at birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears to
INTRODUCTION. Xlll
be a favourite one) above Acle bridge. The sport to the
visitors is nil, while the annoyance to the riparian owners
is extreme. The riparian owners are generally willing to
afford the well-behaved public all reasonable facilities for
enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the public refraining
from potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other
birds on the banks.
It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830,
the Broads and wet marshes were simply waste ; but by
the Enclosure Acts and Awards, these watery commons
were allotted and divided among the neighbouring land-
owners. In some cases the rights of navigation and
staithes were expressly reserved. In others no reserva-
tion was made, and the Broads are absolutely in the
hands of private owners. In other cases again, staithes
and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels
have become choked up by mud and vegetation. In no
case, however, has the right of the Crown to the bed
of the common river been affected or changed by the
Enclosure Awards.
A great point to remember is, that the possessors of
the Broads set as much store by their bulrushes and
water lilies as the admiring visitor; therefore, do not
gather any off the Broads. All flowers and grasses
which grow in such luxuriance by the riverside, within
the river wall, or the three yards from the river margin
where the navigator has an indefeasible right, may as
well be gathered for pleasure as die and rot. Here
XIV INTRODUCTION.
there is abundance for everyone ; but to penetrate into
quiet nooks of Broads and help oneself to other people's
valued property, is an indefensible act, which by oft
repetition has much irritated owners against the public.
It is in this respect also that visitors from a distance
are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it
appears that no harm is done. Nor would there be
much harm in a single instance, but "many a little
makes a mickle."
As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave
exceedingly well, being educated persons with a due sense
of law and order. The bottle shooters, coot potters,
and noisy revellers, the swan's egg robbers and grebe
destroyers, the persons who use one's boat-houses as
luncheon rooms or dust bins are, unfortunately, home
products. Of course, I hear of all offences that are
committed, and by some people I am actually saddled
with the responsibility of any breach of good manners
on the part of the public, because I am supposed to have
brought the latter to the Broads. I therefore beg the
large unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as an
author I have had so many proofs), when they visit the
Broads, not to allow the exhilaration of an enjoyable
holiday to interfere with a due propriety of behaviour.
The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads
are these: —
•
Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or
houses, indulge in songs and revelry after eleven p.m.,
even at regatta times.
INTRODUCTION. XV
Bathe only before eight o'clock in the morning, if in
sight of other vessels or moored in a frequented part of the
river. Ladies are not expected to turn out before eight,
but after that time they are entitled to be free from any
annoyance. Young men who lounge in a nude state on
boats while ladies are passing (and I have known
Norwich youths to do this) may be saluted with dust
shot, or the end of a quant.
Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating,
according to the instructions contained in a subsequent
chapter, and when angling, moor out of the way of
sailing craft, as afterwards explained.
Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to
leeward and become offensive ; but burn, or take care to
sink all rubbish.
Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the
banks in the path of others, whose yachts may be moored
to the same bank.
Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts
moored to the bank, particularly when the occupants of
the latter have things spread out for a meal.
Don't take guns on board unless you have leave to
shoot on somebody's land.
Eemember that sound travels a long way on the water,
and do not criticise the people you may encounter with
too loud a voice.
Don't go on a friend's yacht with nailed shoes (the
commodore of a Thames sailing club once came on
XVI INTRODUCTION.
board mine in cricket shoes armed with spikes). Don't
knock the ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don't
catch small fish and litter his decks with them, leaving
them for him to clean up after you.
Don't moor outside another yacht without the permis-
sion of its owner.
Ladies, please don't gather armfuls of flowers, berries,
and grasses which, when faded, you leave in the boat or
yacht for the unfortunate skipper to clear up. Don't
play the piano in season and out of season (the reedbird's
song is sweeter on the Broads) ; and don't turn out
before eight o'clock in the morning when other yachts
are near.
Observing all these simple maxims, any number of
visitors will find plenty of room for their own enjoyment,
without offence to anyone.
X
^
m
A POOL IN SUBLINOHAM BROAD.
L Bi!
THE HANDBOOK
TO THE
at 10rfolh « Suff0Ih.
CHAPTER I.
THE " BROAD " DISTRICT.
T is somewhat difficult to analyse the
charm which the "Broad" District of
N orfolk and Suffolk has for those who
have once made its acquaintance in the
only way in which an intimate know-
ledge of it can be gained.
In a journey through it by rail, you
see nothing but its flatness ; walk along its
roads, you see the dullest side of it ; but take
to its water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over
you, if you have aught of the love of nature, the angler,
or the artist in you .
18 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
One reason may be that the rivers are highways.
From them you view things as from a different stand-
point ; along them flows a current of life differing from
that on either rail or road : the wind is your servant,
sometimes your master ; there is an uncertainty in the
issue of the day's proceedings, which to an idle holiday-
maker is most delightful, and the slowly-moving water is
more like a living companion than any other inanimate
thing can be. Houses are few and far between. Often-
times within the circle of your sight there is neither
house nor man visible. A grey church tower, a windmill,
or the dark-brown sail of a wherry in the distance breaks
the sense of utter loneliness, but the scene is wild enough
to enchain the imagination of many. Long miles of
sinuous gleaming river, marshes gay with innumerable
flowering plants, wide sheets of water bordered with
swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats, fish, fowl, and
rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits to paint
and sketch — these are the elements out of which a
pleasant holiday may be made.
I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little
Broad. The evening was most still and placid, and the
boat lay motionless among the lily leaves which covered
the water around. The white lilies had so closed their
petals that but the faintest morsels of white peeped
out ; but the yellow, which were most numerous, did not
close so completely, and the dark interspaces of water
were thickly starred with the golden globes. Beyond
TUB "BROAD" DISTRICT. 19
the lily leaves was a belt of tall reeds, swayed only by
the birds which have their home among them. The
yellow iris flowers made the narrow neck of marsh ablaze
with colour. Bounding the view was a cordon of trees ;
on the one side a wooded bank ; on the other, but out of
sight, the river. A rustic boathouse nestled amid the
trees, white swans lighted up the dark shades, moor-
hens led their broods across the pool; the western
clouds were edged with sunset glories, and the reflections
in the water were as perfect as the things they copy.
But though there was absolute calm, the lily leaves were
not still, but moved tremulously, and sent ripples on
either side. Looking closely, you saw that the leaves
were covered with small insects, and the small roach
were busily plucking them off the under side. You
could hear the little snap or suck the fishes made, and
once you caught the sound you found the air was full of
these snaps, and a most weird effect the sound gave.
The roach crowded eagerly round to eat the crumbs that
I threw them. So fearless were they, that when I put
my hand into the water and held it quite still for a
while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny
little tickling scrapes they gave. I actually succeeded in
grasping one or two of the boldest. A piece of paper,
which had been crumpled up and thrown on the water,
was being urged to and fro by the hungry little fish,
who tried to find it eatable, and tugged at it bravely.
The clouds darkened. I went into my cabin as a
20 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
squall of wind and rain came on. The thunder
louder and louder, and there, alone, with the tempest
raging, I could yet write that the end of the evening was
as pleasant as the beginning, so great to me is the charm
of the water.
I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following
day the sun would shine, the wind would blow, and the
hours would pass as quickly as the boat sailed, and slept
as sound as man may.
It has happened that I have written a good deal about
these waters — too much, some people say. One result
has been that I have been pretty well overpowered with
correspondence arising from persons making enquiries
about the district, with a view to visiting it ; therefore,
when the publishers requested me to write a kind of
handbook or guide to the Broads and Rivers, I thought
it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by buying such a
book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and
getting necessarily short and inadequate replies. I am
afraid, however, the guide-book style is rather beyond
me, and I shall be most at home if I try to convey the
requisite information by describing one of the numerous
cruises in which I have sailed as guide to those friends
who have trusted their holidays to my care, and I will
select one lasting but a fortnight, during which time we
covered most of the available ground.
Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situa-
tion of these rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.
THE "BROAD" DISTRICT. 21
From Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-
highways radiate. The chief is the Yare, flowing from
the westward; then comes the Bure, flowing from the
north-westward, and having her large tributaries, the
Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the northward.
From the south-west come the clear waters of the Wave-
ney. All these rivers are navigable for considerable
distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater
number of the Broads are situate. These Broads are
large shallow lakes, connected with the rivers, and are
many of them navigable. Flat marshes follow the lines
of the rivers, and while higher and well- wooded ground
rises near the upper portions of the rivers, near the sea
the country is perfectly flat, and vessels sailing on all
three rivers are visible at the same time.
The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the
rivers, and at the outlet of each main drain is a drainage
pump, or turbine wheel, sometimes worked by a windmill,
and sometimes by steam, which pumps the water out of
the drains into the rivers.
The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile.
The ebb and flow of the tide are felt for thirty miles
inland, but its rise and fall are very little indeed. There
are no impediments to navigation of any consequence,
so it may be imagined what a "happy hunting ground "
this is to the boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.
CHAPTER H
DOWN THE YARB, NORWICH TO HEBDHAM.
0 you mean to say," said Wynne, " that
these Broads are worth my giving up
a few days to seeing them ? "
" If you will give up a fortnight, I
promise you that you will find it too
short. You went to the Friesland Meres
years ago, and enjoyed it. You will like those quite as
well."
So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluc-
tantly, and when, on his anival in Norwich, he took a
preliminary canter by rail to Yarmouth, he refused to
say anything about what he thought of the country,
•which looked ominous. We had hired a ten- ton cutter,
and she was lying at Thorpe, a mile and a half below
the city. The man we had engaged rowed the jolly-boat
up for us, and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old
buildings, we rowed him up the river to the New Mills,
a very old mill, which spans the river Wonsum near ita
DOWN THE YA11E. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. ZO
entrance into the city. From thence we came back
along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with buildings,
many of them ancient and picturesque, under numerous
bridges, wharves where wherries were loading or un-
loading, using the half-lowered mast as cranes, past the
Boom Tower, still keeping watch and ward over the
river ; quaint Bishops' Bridge ; Pull's Ferry, where there
L-UUiOP'S BlilDQE.
is a ruined water gate, often sketched and photographed ;
past the railway station, into the reach parallel with
King Street, where gables, and archways, and courts
delight the painter. Here, on the left bank, is another
Boom Tower, built of flint, the universal building-stone
of Norfolk, faced by another tower on the opposite bank,
whence runs a fine piece of the old city wall up the hill
26
RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,
BOOH TOWEB.
to another and larger tower, in better preservation, on
the summit. Then we next passed the very extensive
works of Messrs. J. and J. Colman, and below them
innumerable stacks of choice wood, out of which the
boxes to contain the mustard, &c., are made.
"You speak of this as the Wensum," said Wynne;
" I thought it was the Yare."
" This river is the Wensum, but this smaller stream
coming in on the right is the true Yare, and from this
point the united river takes the name of the Yare.
This spot is called Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it,
where there is a mill, was once a famous spot for smelts,
where they were caught by large casting nets, used at
DOWN THE YARE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 29
night by torch-light, but the town sewage has effectually
spoiled the smelting. The pool below the New Mills
was also a place where the smelts were caught in large
numbers, but it is not so good now."
Presently we came to Thorpe, where a bend of the
river has been cut off by two railway bridges, and a
straight new cut made for the navigation. We took the
old river, and Wynne was charmed with the view which
then unfolded itself. The long curve of the river was
lined on the outer bank by picturesque houses, with
gardens leading to the water's edge, while behind them
rose a well-wooded bank. In the autumn of 1879 this
reach was found to be swarming with pike, and it
speedily swarmed with anglers, who had generally good
sport until, apparently, all the pike were caught. At
intervals since, there have been similar immigrations of
pike to this reach when tides unusually high or salt
drive the fish up from the lower reaches. At the lower
end of the reach is a favourite resort on summer
evenings, a waterside inn, known as Thorpe Gardens,
where we pulled up. Here there are also boat-letting
stations, where cruising yachts can be hired.
Just through the bridge,* we joined the main river
again, and noticed several yachts moored against the
bank, amongst which was ours.
* This bridge was the scene of a most disastrous railway
collision, in September, 1874, when two trains met, and an
appalling loss of life resulted, 25 persons being killed, and 60 or
70 injured.
80 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Wynne stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk
yacht, and he freely commented on her enormous counter,
short keel, great open well, and tall pole-mast. In a
short time we stowed all our belongings, and set sail —
mainsail, jib, and topsail — the spread of canvas rather
startling Wynne, who had only been used to sea yachts.
There was a light north-westerly wind, and we glided
swiftly away before it. But ere we had sailed a
couple of hundred yards, Wynne insisted on our
stopping to sketch the White House, at Whitlingham,
which, with the trees on the hill, the wood-shaded reach
of river, and the huge brown sails of the wherries,
formed a picture we might well wish to carry away.
Wynne often stopped in this way, to the intense disgust
of our man, who liked to make his passages quickly, and
had no sympathy with artistic amusements.
The dyke leading out of the river by the White House
is a regular harbour for pike, which is continually
restocked from the river. It is private property, but just
at the mouth of the dyke, in the navigable river, is a
good spot. At least three hundred pike were taken here
last winter by Norwich artisans.
" What graceful craft these wherries, as you call them,
are 1 " remarked Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the high-
peaked sail of one which was slowly beating to windward
or " turning," as the vernacular hath it, up the narrow
river.
And he was quite right. There is not a line that is
DOWN THK YABK. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 81
not graceful about a Norfolk wherry. She has a long
low hull with a rising sheer to stem and stern, which are
both pointed. She has a tall and massive mast sup-
porting a single large sail which is without a boom, but
has a very long gaff launching out boldly at an angle of
forty-five degrees. The curve of the brown or black sail
from the lofty peak to the sheet is on all points of sailing
a curve of beauty. The wherries are trading crafts
carrying from twenty to fifty tons of cargo. They are
manned generally by one man, who sometimes has the
aid of his wife or children. They are nearly as fast as
yachts, sail closer to the wind, and are wonderfully
handy. The mast is weighted at the keel with one or
two tons of lead, and is so well balanced that a lad
can lower or raise it with the greatest ease, when it is
necessary to pass under a bridge. Wherries are the most
conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad landscape, and
are in sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses
of the rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the
green marsh.
Very many of these wherries have been converted into
sailing house boats or pleasure barges, and so constitute
most admirable floating homes for those who like cruising
with greater comfort than small yachts can give.
It was an hour before we got under way again, and
when, after sailing down the long straight reach by
Whitlingham, we came in sight of the eminence known
as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to land in order that
82 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
he might see the view from the top. The man burst
into open grumbling, so we asked him if the trip were
undertaken for his pleasure or ours, and on his reluc-
tantly admitting that it was for ours, we told him it was
our pleasure to do as we liked, and he resigned himself
to his fate. The watermen on these rivers are very civil,
but they look with disfavour upon anything which
interferes with actual sailing.
Well, the view from Postwick was worth seeing.
The curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts,
wherries, and boats, lay beneath us, and the green
marshes were bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whit-
lingham, and Bramerton, while the ruined church of
Whitlingham stood boldly on the brow of the opposite
hill.
Under way again, we presently reached Bramerton,
where the " Wood's End" public-house offers good cheer
to the wherryman and boating-man.
The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich
and Yarmouth afford a quick but less pleasant way of
seeing the river, and stop at Bramerton nearly every day
in the week.
Now the higher ground falls away from the river on
each side of us, and the belt of marshes widens, the
river is higher than the surface of the land, and the
water is lifted out of the many drains and dykes by
means of turbine wheels, worked by the windmills which
form such conspicuous objects in the landscape, and by
more pretentious steam drainage mills.
DOWN THE YARE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 85
Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by river from Norwich,
next came into view. The house, with its picturesque
gables, lies in the shadow of a group of fine trees. A
horse and cart was being ferried across on the huge raft
as we approached, and the chain was only just dropped
in time for us to pass.
There is a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but
comfortable staying accommodation ; and excellent roach
fishing is often obtainable. The shore above the Ferry
on the same side is suitable for mooring yachts to, as
there is a fair depth of water close to the bank.
" What numbers of boats there are with people fish-
ing ! " said Wynne. " Do they all catch anything ? "
" Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of
roach, and bream, and some good fish too, but the larger
fish are caught in the deeper water, lower down."
Coldham Hall is the next fishing station of import-
ance. There is a good inn there, and plenty of boats
for hire at a cheap rate. Fishing and other boats can
also be obtained at Messrs. H. Flowers and Co.'s new
boating station, where yachts can be moored and laid
up. As the railway station (Brundall) is close to it, it is
very convenient for anglers. The mooring places at
Brundall and Coldham Hall are not many, as the banks
are very shoal In the reach between Brundall and
Coldham Hall only the middle third of the river is
navigable for yachts ; and the same may be said of the
long reach below Coldham HalL Wr could see half-a-
86 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
dozen fishing boats under the lee of the point above the
station. It seems a favourite place, for I never passed it
without seeing fishermen there. But as the man had to
sail the yacht round the great curve of the river, we took
a short cut across Surlingham Broad in the jolly.
This Broad lies within a horse- shoe bend of the river,
and has a navigable channel across it. It is not deep
enough, however, for yachts or laden wherries. The
Broad is largely affected by the tide, which sometimes
leaves its shallows exposed. The river, as I should have
said, is tidal up to Norwich, and the force of the tide
increases with every deepening of Yarmouth Haven.
We rowed up the dyke which leads on to the Broad, a
small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very
shallow, but a capital nursery for fish and fowl. The
fishing upon it is preserved. Eowing across it, we
entered another dyke, and emerged into the river again,
and caught up the yacht.
Snipe abound on the marshes here, and their drum-
ming can always be heard in the early summer. The
flat, far-reaching marshes glowed with a thousand tints
of flower and grass, and the iris gleamed brightly in the
lush margins of the river. We sailed quietly on, down
the curving reaches of the widening river, watching the
slow-seeming flight of the heron, the splash of fish, the
bending reeds, and the occasional boatloads of anglers,
until we came to the mouth of a dyke, about a mile long,
irp which we again rowed in the jolly, to explore
:W;V-?sn;jijj: ' \~"; >•
WW&
DOWN THE YABE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 87
Rockland Broad, where the open water is much more
extensive than at Surlingham. Here there are several
eel-fishers' floating abodes, Noah's- ark-like structures,
with nets and "liggers" dangling about them. The
fishing and shooting on the Broad are, at present, open
to all.
This Broad is also much affected by the tide, as,
notwithstanding its distance from the river, there are
numerous connecting dykes permitting easy flow and
re-flow of water.
Back in the yacht again, we reached Buckenham
Ferry (ten and a half miles), a favourite angling ren-
dezvous, with a railway station of the same name close
by. A long row of trees on the left bank is the cause of
daily trouble to wherrymen and sailormen, as it shuts on
the wind. The man who plants trees by the side of a navi-
gable river, where the navigation depends upon the wind,
IB the very reverse of a benefactor to mankind, and only
gelfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such an act.
There is fair mooring for yachts just below the Inn,
on the same side, but they must be kept well off the
ghore by poles, or as the tide ebbs they will strand and
perhaps fall over. The Ferry Inn is noted for its
comfort ; and its limited staying accommodation is good.
The fishing is very good both up and down the river,
and there are good boats for hire for fishing purposes.
The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the
shoals near the banks, which abound in the higher
83 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
reaches, are not so frequent. I would call the especial
attention of the river authorities to the disgraceful state
of the river as far as Buckenham Ferry. Each year
the shoals and weeds increase, and the channel narrows,
until in some places not more than a third of the river-
width is available for the navigation. The natural
consequence will be that the navigation must gradually
cease to be made use of, as it becomes a matter of diffi-
culty, and the railway will take the trade, which might
be kept to the river if a more energetic care of the
navigable stream were taken. This is a most serious
matter, and ought to be attended to.
H.NQLEY DYEJS.
DOWN THE YARE. NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 99
Next is Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of
the river where the principal regattas are held, and by
the river side is Cantley Red House (fourteen miles).
Cantley railway station is very close to the river, and as
the water is deep close to the bank, and there is some
fairly firm ground, this is a favourite yachting station,
with good mooring to the banks. Comfortable quarters
may be had at the Bed House, and the fishing is good
all about. A little lower down, on the same side of the
river, is another house, " Peart's," where one may obtain
comfortable accommodation, and a " dock " where small
boats may be safely left.
We delayed so long on our way that the wind was
falling, as it usually does towards five o'clock on summer
days : the tide had also turned, and we had it against us,
so our progress was slow. We passed the mouth of the
diet on our right, navigable some four miles up to
Loddon. Its mouth is marked by Hardley Cross, which
forms the boundary between the Norwich and Yarmouth
jurisdictions over the river. We barely made headway
as a public-house on the left, called Eeedham Ferry,
was reached, and a little lower down we lay to against
the " rond," or bank, and made all snug for the night.
A little further is Eeedham village (eighteen miles),
which is picturesquely situated on high ground on the
north bank of the river. The railway station is close by,
and is the junction between the Yarmouth, Lowestoft,
and Norwich lines. There is staying accommodation
40 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
to be had at Reedhain. Yachts can be moored against
the south bank above the bridge, but should not be lefy
unguarded, as the tide runs strong, and wherries tacking
through the bridge often jam up against the bank.
The stove was soon alight, and the kettle on, while
we walked to the village for eggs and milk. As the
gloaming deepened, Wynne grew poetical over the scene
of wide space there was about us, filled then with an
orange glow from the west, while the swallows skimmed
the river, and struck red drops of spray from the surface.
Then when the awning was spread over the stern sheets,
and the lamp lit up the snug cabin, Wynne smoked
contentedly, to the envy of the writer, who cannot
smoke ; and it was later than it ought to have been ere
we lay down in our respective bunks, and were lulled to
•leep by the ripple of the water against the planks.
EOAC1I.
CHAPTER in.
HEEDHAM TO YARMOUTIL
HE next morning we were up betimes to
take the last of the ebb down to Yar-
mouth, and catch the tide up the Bure.
As there was a fresh breeze from the
east, we had to tack nearly the whole
of the way.
At Eeedham there is a swing bridge, over
which the railway passes, and if the wind is foul
it is always a difficult matter to sail through,
particularly if the tide be against you. On the present
occasion we had the tide with us ; therefore, on reaching
the opening of the bri(1g3, we could shoot the yacht up
into the wind, and carry her way on until through, when
her head was paid off on the proper tack.
"I tell you what, these Norfolk waters are capital
places to learn to steer in. An inch either way, and we
ehould have torn our sail against the bridge."
•* Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every
44 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
tack, without going ashore, shaving wherries by a yard
or two, and watching for every puff as it comes over
the grasses on the marsh, so as to make the most of
it, there is more fun in sailing here than on more open
waters."
Just below the bridge is the New Cut, a perfectly
straight canal, three miles long, connecting the Yare
with the Waveney, and so saving a round of some eigh-
teen miles, which would otherwise be necessary to get
from the one river to the other, as a reference to the
map will show.
Now came a steady beat for several miles, until we
reached the Berney Arms (on the right is the mouth of
the river Waveney), when Breydon water opened out
before us, with Yarmouth in the distance. When the
tide is in, this is a remarkable sheet of water, four and
a-half miles long by a mile broad. There are mud flats
on either side of the wide channel, where herons and
sea fowl greatly congregate. The strong wind against
the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being
longer we made rapid progress, and the motion waa
exhilarating. A sail across Brej'don in a strong wind, ia
a thing I always consider a great treat The channel ia
marked out by stout posts at intervals of two hundred
yards or thereabouts, but it is not safe to sail too close
to all these posts unless the tide be high, as the shoals
stretch out beyond them, and, in default of local know-
ledge, it is best to give them a wide berth.
REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH. 47
The spires of Yarmouth grew more distinct, and at
last we arrived at its quays, just as the tide was on the
turn. We made fast alongside a wherry moored to the
quay, and while our man, with the assistance of one of
the loiterers on the quay, lowered the mast, and quanted
the yacht up the narrow mouth of the Bure and under
two bridges, we took a stroll about the quays, the
quaint " rows " and streets of the old part of the town,
and had a peep at the splendid church.
The ebb tide runs very strongly, and, to avoid being
carried against the bridge which spans the contracted
harbour, it is prudent for the stranger to have an anchor
in readiness. The public quays are on the north side
next the town, and a berth alongside a wherry or other
yacht can be chosen. There are private moorings laid
down alongside the south shore off " Cobholm Island,"
and it is customary, in case of need, to bring up to one
of these, if vacant; but a yacht must not be moored
there, or alongside another jracht there, without permis-
sion. If the visitor is nervous or inexperienced, he can
avail himself of the services of one of the watermen
loafing about the quays, to help him through the fixed
bridges which block the entrance to the river Bure,
which here enters the harbour.
The river bends to the south at an acute angle with
its former course, and for about three miles runs very
close to, and almost parallel with the sea. It is interest-
ing to row past the wharves and quays, where many
48
RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
quaint and picturesque bits present themselves, but on
account of the rapid flow of the tide, it is not a part of
the river much frequented by the river yachts.
As Yarmouth has guide-books all to itself, it is not
necessary here to expatiate upon its attractions.
A. "SOW," GREAT YAE3IOUTH,
CHAPTER IV.
YARMOUTH TO ACLE.
N going back to the yacht, we found that
she was moored in the North River, or
Bure, having been quanted under the
two fixed bridges, and the mast was
being slowly raised. The big pole
masts of these river yachts are very
heavy and unwieldy, and I am always glad
when the operation of lowering and raising
them again is safely over. Sometimes they
have lead weights permanently fixed to the heel of the
mast (which latter swings in a tabernacle), but generally,
lumps of ballast have to be shifted and hooked on, a
troublesome "pinch-finger" business which I avoid in
my own yacht by using a tackle and blocks.
Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Euro
lies north for a mile or two, and then due west as far as
Acle ; and it is well when it is fair, for the next twelve
miles are very uninteresting. There is nothing whatever
52 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
to see, except eel sets and boats. These Noah 's-ark- like
craft are generally made out of old sea boats, with a hut
built on them. They are shoved a little way up a dyke,
out of the way of wherries, and the eel net is stretched
across the stream, waiting for the eels, in their annual
migrations seawards, to swim into it. Those two
wooden buoys, one on each side of the river, mark its
position.
Almost at our first starting, we got aground; hard
and fast too, for the shoals are frequent hereabout. We
waited for the tide to float us off, and to help it we sent
a rope ashore to a man on the bank. The rope was not
quite long enough, and Wynne undertook to bend an-
other to it. The man set all his weight on it, the knot
parted, and the man disappeared on the other side of the
embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep ditch.
Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a towering
passion. He refused to assist us any more, so we waited
a little longer, and as the tide rose, we were again afloat.
Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped
away at top speed to the westward, with frequent jibes
as the river bends. The great boom came over with
tremendous force, and made the yacht quiver again,
although we eased it all we could by rallying in the
sheet. The low, dull banks passed rapidly by, the only
land-marks being solitary houses, known as the three-
mile, four- mile, five-mile, six-mile, and seven-mile houses.
Then we came to Stokesby Ferry, where there is a group
YARMOUTH TO ACLE. 68
of houses, which would make a picture, and an inn,
where there is tolerable accommodation, called the Ferry
House. Then, on the right, are some sluices, marking
the entrance to the "Muck Fleet," a shallow, muddy
dyke, only navigable for small boats, which leads to the
fine group of Broads known as Ormesby and Filby
Broads. Of these we shall have something to say after-
wards. A separate excursion has to be made to them,
as they do not come within the round of a yachting
trip, unless you drag your jolly over the sluices, and row
the four- miles -long Muck Fleet. Having once tried this
experiment, I cannot recommend others to do it.
A mile and a half further on, and we came to Acle
bridge, twelve miles from Yarmouth. Here is a fixed
bridge, where the mast has to be lowered. "When we
got through this we stopped for dinner, and then,
although we might have sailed up to Wroxham with
the wind before dark, we were fated to spend the night
here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne's. In the exu-
berance of his spirits, he attempted to jump a wide
dyke, using the quant as a leaping-pole. As a matter of
course, the pole sank deep into the mud, and when it
attained an upright position, it refused to depart from it,
and so checked Wynne in mid-air.
" Whatever is going to happen now ? " he exclaimed,
and after a frantic gymnastic exercise on the top of the
quant, it slowly bent, and finally broke, depositing
Wynne on his back in the middle of the dyke.
54 RIVEKS AND BBOADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK
We fairly shrieked with laughter, and, as Wynne said,
it served him right, for laughing as he did at the man
rolling into the ditch, when the rope gave way.
As we had to get a new quant from Yarmouth, we
had to wait here until the morning, and amuse ourselves
with fishing for bream, of which large quantities may he
caught here, and of good weight. Acle is a capital fish-
ing station, and is now accessible from Norwich by the
new line to Yarmouth, branching off at Brundall. Acle
is a charming village, and offers many residential facili-
ties to those who are fond of country life and aquatic
amusements. It is within easy reach of all the best
Broads, lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not
far by water to Yarmouth. There are three good inns
— the " King's Head," the " Queen's Head," and the
"Angel." The most convenient is the one by Acle
bridge (the " Angel "), kept by Mr. Kose, who well
understands and can supply the needs of yachting men
and anglers. There is staying accommodation at the
inn, a wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to
let, and every attention from the host. As there is good
mooring to both banks, especially above the bridge, and
the river is wide and deep, Acle is rapidly becoming a
favourite yachting and angling station.
Owing to the wide breadth of marsh there is a tru«
wind for sailing, and the reaches above Acle to Thurne-
mouth are wider and finer than any other parts of tho
Bure.
CHAPTEB V.
ACLE TO WROXHAM.
HE wind, on the next morning, was from
the north-west, a head wind for us, and
there was little of it; so little, indeed,
that we could not stem the tide, and had
to quant for three miles. Then we came
to the mouth of the river Thurne, leading to
Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on
our return from Wroxham. The Bure turns off sharply
to the west, and as the wind gradually gained in
strength, we were able to dispense with the unwelcome
labour of quanting.
The first noteworthy spot that we came to was St.
Beuet's Abbey, situated on the north bank of the river.
Once upon a time it must have been a mighty building,
covering much ground, as its scattered ruins testify.
Now nought reminds us of its founder, sensible King
Canute, but a fine archway, with some contiguous walls,
upon which a windmill has been erected, but which is
58 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
now itself in ruins, and two massive parallel walls,
standing about two hundred yards to the eastward;
also, there are arched doorways, and strong walls in the
house by the riverside, whose cool recesses speak of
ancient days. This house was once a public-house ; we
landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of
eggs and butter. We also climbed to the top of the
ruined arch, whence a wide prospect is visible, and one
may count a goodly number of churches.
Opposite the ruins is a dyke, down which a wherry
turned.
" Where does that lead to ? " asked Wynne.
" To South Walsham Broad, which is a mile and a
half down it ; and, although wherries can sail down, this
boat, which draws about five feet six inches, cannot.
Still, we can go down in the jolly, or, if you like, stay
here, and fish for perch. This is a noted spot, because
there is a hard gravelly bottom, and, by the way, we
might have stopped at Thurne mouth, which is a good
place for pike."
" I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down
to the Broad."
So we started, and overtook the wherry, which had
been aground, and she gave us a tow down. The Broad,
which was formerly one sheet of water, has, by the
growth of reeds and plants, been divided into two por-
tions. There was nothing particular to be seen in the
first one ; but on rowing into the further Broad, we saw
ACLE TO WROXHAM. 59
a cottage on the right bank, which, with its long, low
thatch, deep eaves, its honeysuckles and roses, its trees
and its landing-place, formed a most tempting object for
a sketch, and one the artist would do well to seek. The
Broad is private, save for the navigation across one part
of it to South Walsham, and the fishing is preserved.
The old course of the river formerly made a horse- shoe
bend down towards South Walsham, and the present
straight channel by the Abbey ruins is an artificial cut.
The site of the Abbey is an island of solid ground in the
midst of a great extent of marsh. When we got back to
the boat we saw the man fast asleep on the counter,
with his rod in the river, in tow of a large perch,
weighing one pound and a half, which we secured.
About a mile further, on the right hand, as we ascend
the river, is the mouth of the river Ant, leading to
Barton Broad and Stalhain, of which more anon.
" The river is getting uncommonly pretty," said
Wynne, " and this slow tacking enables me to see it to
advantage, eh ! How close we steer to the fishing boats I
and, pray tell me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear
such extraordiary hats! Here is another dyke. Can
we sail down it ? "
" If we only drew four feet of water, we could go on to
Eanworth Broad."
" Then, on my next cruise here, I will get a yacht that
does not draw more than a wherry does. It is absurd to
have such deep draught yachts where there are so many
shallows. Let us row down."
CO
RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Ranworth Broad is a very pretty Broad, but grown up
so that it is divided into two. The eastern half is
navigable to the village of Kanworth, but otherwise
private, as is the other portion of the Broad. This is
very strictly preserved, on account of the wild fowl which
frequent it. It is a favourite fishing place, although
permission has first to be obtained from the owner, who,
however, cannot be expected to give leave indiscrimi-
nately. It is not worth while seeking to fish in private
waters in this district, for other fish than pike, seeing
that the free fishing in the rivers is as good as any one
could wish for. From the eastern part of the Broad, a
very pretty picture, with the church in the back ground,
on a wooded height, is visible.
Then to Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a
horse and cart were being ferried across, and we had to
BOBHXHO VILLAGE.
ACLE 10 WROXHAM. Cl
lie to for a few minutes, until the huge raft was safely
across, and the chain lowered. The public-house at the
ferry is a very comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room
and garden in front, and is a capital place to make one's
head-quarters. It is about nine miles drive from
Norwich, and four from Wroxham railway station. A
little further on is Horning village, a picturesque group
of houses, straggling along the river bank, with a large
windmill on the hill behind, making a good picture.
Here our ears were greeted with the song which, for
generations past, the small children of the village have
chanted to passing yachts —
"Ho ! John Barleycorn : Ho ! John Barleycorn,
All day long I raise my pong
To old John Barleycorn. "
That is all. It is simple and effective, and extracts coins
from too easily pleased holiday-makers.
The river turns to the left, at right angles to its
former course, as it passes the village, and on the north
bank is a reedy sheet of water, called Hoveton Little
Broad, where there is a small colony of the black-headed
gulls. On the south side is a small, but pretty Broad,
called the Decoy Broad. Then the river turns still
more sharply to the left, and we sailed due south, after
having come due north by Horning.
" What a number of anglers there are ! " said Wynne,
:' and the singular thing is, that they always seem to be
catching fish. — How many have you caught ? " he called
out to two fishermen in a boat.
C2 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
" About six stone, sir," was the reply; " but we have
been at it since daylight, and they bite very slow."
" I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county,
with all these splendid rivers and free fishing ; and one
place seems as good as another."
" Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get
under a lee."
" Do they groundbait the place where they fish ? "
" Not before they come, but while fishing they throw
in a good deal of meal, mixed with water and clay. If
they were to groundbait one or two suitable places on
both sides of the river, so as to be sure of getting a lee,
for a day or two before they fish, they ought to get even
more than they do now. Here is a boat-load trailing for
jack. Ask how many they have caught."
Wynne did so, and the reply was, " Fifteen, but all
small : they run from two pounds up to seven."
" People here either fish for pike with a live bait or
trail with a spoon. You rarely see anybody spinning
by casting, or even using a dead bait on a spinning flight.
Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a
paternoster has proved very deadly. With three large
minnows on your tackle, and roving about close to the
bank, you may get many pike and perch."
'* I'll try it in the morning before breakfast," said
Wynne.
In another mile the river again turns westward. On
the north is a very large Broad, called Hoveton Great
ACLE TO WROXHAM. C3
Broad, whence comes the clangour of a large colony of
black-headed gulls. The Broad is not navigable for
anything of greater draught than a small sailing boat ;
and now all access to it has been barred by chains
across the dykes, and it is strictly preserved, chiefly in
consequence, it is said, of the disturbance of the gulls
by visitors. The gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a
white cloud, so that the air seemed filled with them, and
the half-grown young ones floated on the water, as lightly
as thistle-down. Although this colony is nothing like so
large as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near Hingham,
in Norfolk, yet it is extremely interesting, and particu-
larly when the eggs are being hatched off, and the little
fluffy brown balls, which represent the young birds, are
running and creeping about the reeds and grasses, and
swimming in and out of the water-divided tussocks. Air
and water and grasses seem thrilling with abundant life,
and the ear is deafened with abundant noise ; a noise,
however, which, discordant as it is, has for a naturalist
the music of the nightingale. The water is very shallow
at the east end, where the gulls are, but the soft mud is
of an exceeding great depth.
Some years ago the American weed, Anacharis
alsinastrum, that pest of our inland waters, so completely
filled this Broad, that a duck could walk upon the
surface. It then suddenly decayed, at the same time
poisoning the fish so that they died by thousands. Since
this time the Broad has been comparatively free from it
64 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
During Wynne's visit the Broad was still open, and
we visited it in the jolly. After rowing about for some
time, we turned to go back to the yacht, and Wynne
said, "I don't see the sails of the yacht anywhere.
Where can she have disappeared to ? I know that the
river is over there, because there is the sail of a wherry
over the reeds, but there is no channel through the reeds,
and it is no use your rowing that way. You have lost
your way, my boy."
We only laughed at him and rowed on.
" I tell you that there is no way into the river here.
Oh, yes, there is ; I beg your pardon, but I should have
rowed about until doomsday before I found the way off."
" And you couldn't have landed, for I don't think there
is a bit of solid ground all round the Broad. But where
is the yacht ? " For there was no sign of her.
The wide opening on the opposite side of the river
suggested that perhaps the man had taken her on to
Salhouse Broad. So we rowed on, disturbing a king-
fisher, which was perched on a bullrush, and there was
a picture. Wynne cried, "On!" with delight, and,
although I have seen the like so many times, the scene
is always fresh in its beauty. On the placid bosom of
the small lake the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of
swans, with their brood of cygnets, swam near her.
Outside the ever-present boundary of green reeds, was a
darker circle of trees, and crowds of yellow lilies made a
bright bit of colour in the foreground. On the further
ACLE TO WROXHAM. C5
shore was a thatched boat-house, and behind it a wooded
bank. The thud of the jolly against the yacht's side
aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke the still
surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike, and the
red-and- white cows, which had pushed through the reeds
to drink, stood looking at us contemplatively.
We dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne
worked hard at a water-colour sketch, brush in one hand,
bread and butter in the other, palate, plate, and sketch-
block mixed up, and the brush going as often into his
teacup as into the mug of water.
After tea, we landed, and walked into the long and
straggling village of Salhouse, in search of bread and
fresh meat, and on our return, climbed to the top of the
bank, whence a fair prospect met our eyes. At our feet
were Salhouse Broad, and the smaller Broad next to it,
which I call Salhouse Little Broad, a lakelet covered
with water lilies ; outside these, the sinuous river,
doubling upon itself, as though loth to leave so pleasant
a land ; Hoveton Broad to the right, and Wroxham
Broad to the left ; many white sails flitting about on the
latter, and more yachts coming slowly up the river.
There is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to Sal-
house Staithe, but the present owner of the Broad
discourages sailing upon it, and the reader is advised
not to anchor or moor there. The old times when one
could come and go upon the Broads as a matter of
apparent right are now past.
GO RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
We went to Girling's farm, close by, to get milk, and
eggs, and butter, and I may mention that Mr. Girling
has comfortable rooms to let, suitable for a family,
whilst the situation is unsurpassed for prettiness.
We quanted off the Broad, and found just sufficient
air moving on the river to take us gently on. We had
a little surprise in store for Wynne. As we came up to
Wroxham Broad, I asked him to reach me something
out of the cabin. When he was safe inside, I put the
helm up, and we slipped through the ' gatway ' into the
Broad. When Wynne came out of the cabin, instead
of the river banks, he saw the wide- stretching Broad,
the Queen of the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth
of water combined.
" This is lovely. I had no idea that we had left the
river. What a string of fishing boats 1 Are they having
a match ? "
"Yes. Angling matches are very favourite amuse-
ments here, and the prizes are sometimes valuable, and
sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature. They
are very sociable, well-conducted gatherings, and I think
the Norfolk anglers would meet with old fzaak's appro-
bation, as being honest and peaceable men."
" They all look very happy. But, tell me, are there
always so many yachts here as there are to-day ? "
" Not quite. The fact is, there is a regatta of the
Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club here to-morrow, and it
is always a genuine water frolic. This is a favourite
A OLE TO WROXHAM.
67
place at all times ; Wroxham is only seven miles by rail
from Norwich, and the Broad is only a mile and a half
from Wroxham by water."
We drifted across to the other side of the Broad, and
there dropped our anchor, and made all snug.
It was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came
upon the Broad, and anchored ; anchoring, by the way,
meaning, in the majority of cases, dropping some pigs
of ballast overboard, at the end of a rope, for the mud
is so soft that an ordinary anchor would drag through
it. We visited our friends on various yachts, and then
the moon shone so brightly out of a cloudless sky, that,
late as it was, we did not turn in for a long time, but
floated about in the boat, and yarned about old times,
until it was very late indeed.
HORNING FEEKT.
CHAPTEB VL
WROXHAM BROAD.
HAD scarcely closed my eyes, it seemed to
me, ere I was awakened by Wynne moving
about.
" What are you up to ? " I cried.
"I am going to paternoster for perch,
and I'll take the casting-net to get some small
fry."
"Oh, dearl why can't you wait until the
morning ? "
4 ' It is morning. It is four o'clock and broad daylight."
" Then go, and don't come back until breakfast time.''
And I drew the curtains over the windows, and tried to
think it was quite dark, and to get to sleep again.
On awaking I heard the sound of a piano. My first
thought was, "Where am I?" I found that I was on
the boat, sure enough, and it was seven o'clock. There
was no more sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a
yacht, was lying near, and her crew had not only got a
WROXHAM BROAD. C9
piano on board, but played upon it at seven o'clock in
the morning. It is an excellent plan to rig up a wherry
in this way for a cruise, as good accommodation for a
large party is secured, and the interior can be well
divided into several sleeping-rooms. The presence of
ladies aboard the wherry, and up so early, was rather a
nuisance, as one had to row away for one's dip. Up to
eight o'clock, the Broad is generally sacred to the men,
who can take their plunge overboard with safety.
Presently Wynne came back.
" Well, what have you caught ? "
" Two jack, about five pounds each, and three perch,
about a pound each. If I could have got some minnows
I should have done better, but the roach I got were too
large for paternostering, and not lively enough. I got
into a row, too. I found a bow net set among the
weeds, and there were three large tench in it. As I took
it up to look at it, its owner appeared, and slanged me
considerably at first ; but when he cooled down, he got
talkative, and told me that the reaches of the river by
Salhouse and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike, but
that all the way down to Horning Ferry is good. By
the way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the Broad when
I set out, and they went on to the river when they saw
me. The Broad is not preserved, is it ? "
" No ; but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies
a tax of 2s. Gd. on fishermen, and as it goes to the
Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, one ought to pay it-
70 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
willingly. Poor men can't pay it, so they fish on the
Broad in the early morning, and then leave for the
river. They walk here from Norwich, overnight, and
begin to fish before daylight, and as they can get a boat
at Wroxhain for a shilling a day, it is not an expensive
pastime for them."
"I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there
was so much on them, and the letters were so small,
that I could not read them, but I suppose they were
meant to warn people off."
" Yes, there is unfortunately too great a disposition
amongst owners to try and close the Broads against the
fishing public, and even to interfere with the old navi-
gation rights, but there are praiseworthy exceptions,
and here comes one, the owner of this end of Wroxham
Broad."
[Note. This is left as first written, but it is necessary
now to say that since the death of Mr. Chamberlin, the
owners of the Broad have obtained a decision in the
Superior Courts that the public have no right to fish on
Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question
has not been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be
private property. At the same time they courteously
disclaim any intention of closing the Broad to the
reasonable enjoyment of the public. Sailing on the
Broad is freely permitted, but yachts are not allowed to
moor there at night, on account, it is said, of the un-
avoidable refuse floating against the private pleasure
WROXHAM BROAD. 71
grounds of the owners. Persons also are not allowed
to land. It is to be hoped that the good behaviour of
the public will remove all idea of closing the Broad to
the public, which would be nothing short of a calamity.
The regattas on this Broad which used to be such
sources of amusement, have been quite discontinued,
partly on account of the difficulty in getting the present
racing craft up the North Biver, and partly through the
reluctance of yacht owners to ask the favour of sailing
where they formerly supposed they had a right.]
As the sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great
a ratio, and the breeze was too light to afford much
excitement in the way of racing. Still, it was a won-
derfully pretty sight, such as could be seen on no other
English inland water, save Windermere : the yachts,
too, are very much like the Windermere yachts, but
carry even more canvas than the latter do. The follow-
ing are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time :
length on keel, 25 feet ; over all, 34 feet ; beam, 10 feet.
Ordinary canvas would be, mainsail luff, 23 feet ; head,
28 feet 6 inches ; foot, 35 feet, and leech, 42 feet ; jib,
leech, 23 feet ; foot, 36 feet ; and luff, 48 feet, with a
topsail yard of 23 feet. For racing, these dimensions
are largely increased. For fast sailing and quick turn-
ing to windward, these boats are justly celebrated, but
the Broads are so rapidly growing shallower, that their
draught, about five feet, closes many of the Broads to
them. A much more sensible type of a large boat for
72 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
pure comfort in cruising (though not for sport in sailing)
is one founded on the wherry plan, with a large main-
sail, and drawing not more than three feet of water.
For such boats under 10 tons, the " Una " type is the
best. Its shallow draught would enable it, with the
centre-board up, to go anywhere, and penetrate into the
most charming recesses of this wild country, which the
deeper yacht can never see. Its beam gives safety, and
also minimises the inconvenience of -the centre-board
case in the cabin, and a high booby hatch would give
head-room. The one sail is very handy, and if her
owner has but ordinary skill and energy, he could sail
her alone, and so dispense with the expense of keeping
a man. "Without this expense, yachting in these waters
is a reasonable and very cheap amusement. These re-
marks are for the benefit of the great number of people
who have written to me at one time or another, to know
what facilities for economical boat- sailing and living
exist in these waters. For fast sailing and ease of
handling by a skilled person, the present improved type
of sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed on any waters.
Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged
sailing-boats of a very fast type, canoes with battened
sails, luggers and boats, and wherries sailed to and fro,
and steam launches puffed noisily about, and marred
the beauty of the scene, as well as upset the glasses and
dishes of breakfast or luncheon by the swell which they
caused. The people paid very little attention to the
WROXHAM BROAD. 73
racing, but set themselves heartily to enjoy this great
water picnic.
Wynne went ashore, and discovered some pretty
woodland vistas, with glimpses of the Broad, and the
glancing sails between leafy boughs of oaks, and under
lofty arms of Scotch firs. Also, he discovered that at
the farm at the lower end of the Broad, Mrs. Newman's,
there were rooms to let, and that an artist friend of his
had taken them, so there he stayed for a long time, and
kept the jolly, in spite of vigorous hails for it.
Of the adventurous journeys of yachts up to divers
Wroxham Regattas, of the exploits of elated yachtsmen,
and the mishaps of careless ones, of the fun and merri-
ment attendant on these annual gatherings, the writer
has written in another place. At present, we must
hurry on.
In the evening we sailed, or rather quanted, up to the
Bridge. These reaches of the river were lovely in the
extreme. The clear and brimming river reflected the
marginal flowers and groups of trees, while acres of
marsh shone with the yellow iris flowers. But, alas I
the woods and the sloping fields kept off the wind, and
made one wish that the upper entrance to the Broad
were widened and made navigable.
We came to the Bridge at last, and moored to the
bank, watching the homeward-bound holiday makers
arrive in yachts, and boats, and wherries; a goodly
number of the latter having numerous passengers.
F
74
RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Wroxliain has two decent inns, where good boats and
bait may be obtained — Jimpson's (the "King's Head"),
and Whittaker's, the former the largest, but both com-
fortable.
UELAUG1I CHURCH.
CHAPTER VIL
WROX 11 AM TO COLTISH ALL.
HE bridge at WroxLam is very narrow
and low. The mast, of course, had to
be lowered, and the yacht quanted under
the road and railway bridges. A wherry
passing under raised her rnast too soon,
and damaged the ornamental vane, which
consisted of the inevitable figure of a Welsh girl
with a high hat and holding a bunch of leeks.
" There, I must have a new Welsh girl," said the
wherryman.
" Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all
places ? " asked Wynne.
" Some thirty years ago there was a wherry named
after the famous Jenny Morgan of the song, and she had
such a vane. It took the fancy of the wherrymen to
such an extent that they all adopted it in the course of
time."
The river here is very narrow, and Wynne, who
7G RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
steering, put the yacht " on the putty " twice, before he
could be induced to give up the helm to the man, who
professed to know the exact depth of every part of the
river. The river makes a very long loop to the south,
just above Wroxham. In this loop is Belaugh Broad,
said to hold some very large carp, but it is preserved.
On the neck of the loop, on a high bank, stands Belaugh
Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you
follow the river. It is very picturesquely situated, and
the view from it is characteristic. Close by the church
is a draw-well, with a pent-house over it, well worth
sketching. There is a pretty backwater, or old channel
of the river, near here, called "Little Switzerland,"
which is worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner
objects even to artists visiting it, and hence it must be
considered as sacred ground.
It came on to blow very hard, as we finished the
three-mile loop of river, half a mile from where we
entered it, and as the wind was fair, the corners sharp,
and the river narrow, we lowered the mainsail, and ran
up under the jib alone, to Coltishall, where we at once
made a rush for the butcher's, just in time to secure a
piece of meat for our dinner to-morrow, which, being
Sunday, we intended to spend at Coltishall. The village
is superior to most Norfolk villages, and contains some
old houses with rounded gables, and a fine church.
The great business of the place is malting, and many
men labour as maltsters in winter and boat-builders in
WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL.
DYKE NEAR OOLIUBAU*
summer, so that summer is the time to get a boat built
at Coltishall, when either Allen or Collins will build you
one at a reasonable rate.
The fishing is very good in this portion of the river,
and there are great numbers of jack here, although they
run rather small. In the spawning season, the bream
head up here in large numbers, and as there is no close
season in Norfolk, many anglers follow them up.
The first lock on this river is just above the village,
and on the bye- stream stands Horstead mill, a very fine
specimen of the Norfolk water-mill. It stands upon
78 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
arches, and the stream runs under it, the wheels, of
course, being undershot. It makes a very effective
picture, seen from below, and, in fact, if you row your
jolly up the left-hand stream, as you go up, you will see
very many lovely bits worth the painter's attention. I
have photographed some of them, as I can't sketch, but
photographs cannot depict the colour. It is in the soft
living light of these Norfolk scenes that their chief
beauty lies, but they cannot be depicted without the aid
of colour, and only imperfectly then.
The river is navigable for wherries and yachts draw-
ing but little water, right up to Aylsham, some eleven
miles further ; but there are two more locks before
reaching Aylsham.
Coltishall is accessible by rail from Norwich, being
the next station to Wroxham, and lodgings are obtain-
able there. The jack fishing is very good all the way.
.
— : i
LUDH/Uf BRIDOK.
CHAPTER VIII.
UP THE ANT> TO BARTON AND STALHAM.
|
IYNNE had undertaken the office of
steward, and so far we had fared
sumptuously, but as we were tidy-
ing up on Monday morning, the fact
became apparent that the provision lockers were
nearly empty.
"The fact is," he said, " I thought there would
be a better chance of buying things, as we went along,
than there appears to be, for with the exception of butter
and eggs, we might as well be on the prairies. What
shall we do ? "
Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, par-
ticularly when it is for several days, and as I knew that
at Norwich made-up hampers of provisions for fishing-
parties could be obtained, we telegraphed for one to be
sent to us at Wroxharn station, and departed in hope,
with a light but fair wind. We trailed a pike-bait
behind, and caught several jack, and two or three good
82 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
perch. We were three hours getting to Wroxham, and
while the mast was being lowered, Wynne went to the
station to meet a train then coming in. He returned in
glee with a hamper of good things, and our difficulty
was at end. Once we spent a Sunday at Wroxham,
with nothing procurable to eat but biscuits, and once,
at Barton, we were obliged to fish for our meals. Meat
so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does not
always care for tinned things. A good wrinkle is to
have a bottle containing a strong solution of perman-
ganate of potash on board, and then a few drops placed
in a pint of \\ater will make a most efficient deodorising
liquid, with which you may safely sprinkle the meat,
and wash out the lockers.
As the day advanced, the breeze got up, and by two
o'clock we were at the mouth of the river Ant, ten miles
from Wroxham.
As we turned up its narrow and shallow waters, our
man said,
" We shan't get very far up this river, sir, with a craft
drawing so much water as this."
" No, but we can get to Ludham Bridge, and there I
have arranged for an old lateener to be waiting for us."
We touched the ground several times before we got to
the bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very
fine Broad is practically closed to the possessor of a
large yacht of the usual type. Wo left the yacht below
the bridge in charge of the man, and Wynne and I
WOODLAND POOL — IBBTEAD.
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 83
transferred ourselves on board a six- ton lateener, very
broad and very shallow, with bluff bows ; a boat sixty
years old, if a day, only drawing about two feet of water.
She had an enormous lateen foresail, and a mizen, and
she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne's
sketches. A wherry was coming through the low and
narrow bridge, and, as the water was high, she had
some difficulty in doing it.
The wind was fair for a large portion of the way, and
we bowled along very fast. Where it was ahead, owing
to a bend in the river, there was no room to tack, and
one of us would jump ashore with a line, and tow. The
Ant is just like a canal, except that it has no tow-path.
The fishing in it is remarkably good, particularly at
Irstead shoals, where there is a stretch of water about
half a mile long, with an even depth of four to five feet,
and a firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity in this land
of boggy streams. This is an excellent spot for perch
and pike. It is marked by the presence of a church on
the western bank, and is one of the few places on these
waters where a person who cannot swim can bathe with
safety or comfort. The muddy bottom, of course, pro-
hibits wading. As you approach the entrance to Barton
Broad, the bottom becomes muddy again, and the Broad
itself is full of mud; there being large "hills" where
the water is not more than two feet deep. The navi-
gable channels wind between these hills, and are marked
out by posts. The Broad is a mile long, and very pretty,
84 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
and the entrance to it is four and a half miles from the
mouth of the Ant. In our light-draught lateener, we
ignored the channels, and sped about all over, often,
however, finding our speed diminished, as the keel cut
through the soft mud, and turned up yellow volumes of
mud behind. It is a curious fact that in some Broads
and portions of Broads, the mud is of a light yellow
colour, and in other portions black. As all this mud
is the result of decayed vegetation, this difference is
singular.
There is an artificial island in the Broad, where a
picnic party were then enjoying themselves. We sailed
away into the long bight which leads towards Neatishead,
where the bowery woods, fringing the water, spoke of
welcome shade, but we were brought to a stop by the
mud, and had some difficulty in getting back. On this
very lovely Broad, we found we had much better stick to
the channels, which were wide enough, and explore the
shallows in the jolly. The fishing here is remarkably
good. I do not think any objection is made to angling
for coarse fish, but permission must be obtained for
pike fishing. The Broad, though the water is fresh, is
affected by the rise and fall of the tide. Going on one
night in the dark, I missed the channel, and ran so
hard on to a " hill," that in the morning when the tide
was at its height, we had to lay the yacht on her side by
means of lines and tackles to the nearest channel posts
ere we could float her off. The Broad is easy of access,
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 87
by going to Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at
Stalham, whence a row of about two miles will bring
you on to the Broad.
At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke leads
northwards. This divides into two about a mile from
the Broad ; the left-hand one leads to Dilham and North
Walsham, becoming a canal, with locks and water-mills.
We took the right-hand one, and on coming to another
sub-division, took the left-hand one, the right leading to
a grown-up piece of water, known as Button Broad.
The course we chose led us over Stalham Broad, which,
though marked on maps as a piece of open water, now
only consists of a tract of marsh, with a dyke kept open
through it. Stalham is at the end of this dyke. Here
there are two good inns, the " Swan," and the " Maid's
Head," and there are plenty of good boats for hire at
the waterside. Stalham has a station on the Yarmouth
and North Norfolk Railway, and as a fishing station is
considered very good.
We caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours
as well as his), and a big fellow of about fourteen
pounds in weight was said to haunt the spot. We saw
a large fish strike at some roach, but he would not look
at our spinning-bait. Within sight of the dyke end is a
tumble- down house, with a thatched roof, b;,</ken-backed,
and altogether so jumbled and anciePviooking, that it
makes a capital subject for a sketch-.
In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter,
88
RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
and took both boats back to the Bure, and down it to
St. Benet's Abbey, which we reached by moonlight.
Wynne had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which
had been lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to
explore the Broads about Hickling, all too shallow for
the cutter, we decided to take both yachts up the Thurne
to Heigham Bridges, and leave the cutter there, while
we took the lateener up on the wide, wild waters above
the bridge. The next morning we devoted to pike fish-
ing, at the mouth of the Thurne, getting our bait with a
casting-net. We got up very early, and were moored in
a convenient spot, and all rigged up ready to start before
the mist had risen off the water. I do not intend to go
into the details of our sport, which was not out of the
way, but by one o'clock we got six pike, from four to ten
pounds in weight, and put back four under- sized fish.
This was with live bait, without moving more than one
hundred yards from the same spot.
CHAPTER IX
WO MACK BROAD.
tired of fishing, we had a swim, and
then dinner; and, late in the afternoon,
we hoisted sail, to a stiff breeze, Wynne
and the man in the cutter, and I hi the lateener.
They ran away from me so quickly, however, that
I could not stop them at the entrance to Womack* Broad,
as I had intended, and was obliged to go in chase of
them up to Heigham Bridges. The round, bluff bows
of my old lateener, designed to support the heavy mast,
which raked forward over them, made such a hollow in
the water, and raised such a big wave, that sailing very
fast was impossible. As it was, the nose of the boat
sank so that it seemed as if she must run under, a fate
not uncommon with lateeners, when running before a stiff
breeze. It was this peculiarity of theirs, combined with
the large foreyard, more than twice the length of the boat
* Sometimes called Wannick, or Wandjke, said to be a corrup-
tion of Swandjke.
92
RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
which caused the rig to fall into disuse. For turning to
windward, however, they are uncommonly handy, and
easily managed single-handed. The Thurne is a fairly
wide stream, with deep water, so that you can tack close
up to the banks. It is four miles from the mouth of the
Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and the cutter was there
ten minutes hefore me.
DBAINAGE MILL — KITES THTTBNB.
" I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke,
half way up, but I could not make you hear me. There
is a charming little Broad there, called Womack Broad,
and a picture ready composed, so bring your paint-box,
and we will beat back in the lateen."
We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that
narrow channel with great celerity.
11 This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I
think ; at all events, there is less trouble in managing
WOMACK BROAD. 95
her," said Wynne. " Do you know that I think a fine-
bowed lugger, with main and mizen rig, would be a
handy boat for these waters."
" Some of the old lateeners have been turned into
luggers, and sail very well. Here is the dyke, nearly a
mile long, and fringed with ferns and flowers, reeds and
bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots."
" Here conies a wherry. What shall we do ? There
is no room to pass."
" We must go to windward of her, or her sail will
take the mast out of us. Here is a place made wide to
admit of wherries passing, and we can hold on here
until she gets by. There, that was a tight fit."
The boat sailor must be very careful to keep to wind-
ward of the wherries in narrow waters, as their huge
gaffs and sails take up a great deal of room, and if they
catch your mast, they may carry it away, or capsize you.
It is still more important not to get across the bows of
a wherry, as she would get the best of the encounter,
and a small yacht very much the worst of it. It is not
often that accidents happen through any collision, but
occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered and
row across the bows of a wherry, sailing fast, and a day
of pleasure is turned into mourning. A special Provi-
dence seems to watch over amateur boat-sailors, and it
is marvellous to see how they come unharmed out of
predicaments which seem most serious. The wherries
are sailed remarkably well, and you can generally rely
90 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NOUFOL.fi. AND SUFFOLK.
on their carefulness, so that you may sail your yacht
rigidly according to the rule of the road. One thing
should be remembered, the wherry's sailing is a matter
of business, and the yachtsman's is a matter of pleasure
only; therefore, it is well to give way to a wherry, if
there is any doubt on the point, and not hamper her
unnecessarily.
The dyke we were then sailing down is about a mile
long, leading westward to Womack Broad, which was
once a nice sheet of water, but is very rapidly growing
up, each year seeing an accretion to the growth of spongy
marsh, and an additional layer of mud on the bottom.
At present, the channel is navigable for wherries, which
ply to Ludham village, at the further end of it.
On the right-hand side, as we entered the Broad, is a
bit of an old-world picture : a boat-builder's shed, large
and old, and of picturesque construction, stands on the
margin, amid low bushes and under the shade of mighty
trees. Beneath it is a large boat, of an age and type
unknown, and a wherry sleepily awaiting repair. Be-
hind the boat-house is a barn, whose high- thatched roof
is shaded by the branches of a cherry tree. By the side
of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry small craft are
ensconced. Behind all, and peeping out of a garden run
wild, are low, thatched cottages, and scattered about,
among the tall grasses, are trunks of trees, curved
"knees" of oak, suitable for boat-building, and broken-
up boats and punts. On the still water in front is
WOMACX BROAD.
97
moored a floating eel-fisher's hut, and all around is the
sense of the repose of the past. The former busy life
has left its emblems resting in acquiescence with the fate
which contracts the sphere of their usefulness, day by
day, and year by year, as the vegetation slowly, but
surely, drives out the water. That dense growth of reeds
lies upon a skim of soil which would not bear the weight
of a dog, and now undulates with the movement of the
water, but in three years' time it may bear the weight
of a man.
An old man who lives near there, grumbles because
the artists come and paint his cottage and broad, and
take away pounds' worth of sketches, and never think of
sending him a picture in acknowledgment.
It was a lotos lake to us that afternoon. Wynne
painted, and I fished, and we sailed back to Heigharn
Bridges by moonlight.
Womack Broad is not shown upon some maps and
charts, but those who are susceptible to a lovely scene
should not pass it by.
OUDGEOX.
CHAPTEE X.
IIICKLING BROAD.
EIGHAM Bridge is a small stone one, with
not much room to get through, and a
little above it is the railway bridge, over
\vhich the Eastern and Midlands Kail way runs,
with a station not far off — Potter Heigham.
Near the station is the " Falgate " Inn, where there
is comfortable accommodation. A gate hangs over the
inn by way of a sign, and on its bars is inscribed the
following —
"This gate hang high
But hinder none.
Refresh and pay
And travel on."
The omission of the s in the third person singular of the
verb is truly Norfolk, and common even among the
middle classes. At the bridge is the " Waterman's Arms,"
where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, ail
scrupulously clean, are obtainable. Just by the bridge,
in a sort of wooden " Peggoty's Hut," lives Applegate,
HiCKLING BROAD. 99
who has good boats, sailing and rowing, for hire, stowed
away in a remarkably neat boat-house. The fishing all
round is as good as it can be, and I never fail to get a
jack near the bridge, while, within four miles lie
Hiclding and Somerton Broads, Heigham Sounds, and
Horsey Mere. For myself, I should prefer this as a
fishing and boating station, to any other, because of the
wildness of the district.
The tide ebbs and flows strongly; and I caught
Wynne standing on the bridge, and looking in a per-
plexed way at the rate the perfectly fresh water of the
river was running up stream. The exit of these waters
— at Yarmouth — was twenty miles away, by water;
Heigham Bridge is only between four and five miles
from the sea, in a direct line, and the water was now
running eastward, towards the sea, and the lakes, which
daily rise and fall, though only a few inches, actuated
by the salt tide, " so near, and yet so far."
" Verily, this is a strange country," said Wynne, " and
not, I should think, beyond the possibility of a sudden
visit from the sea."
" No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are
the sea- banks, of sand, only held together by scanty
marram grasses. We will pay them a closer visit."
We got the lateener through the bridges, taking suffi-
cient things for a night's absence, and sailed away up
the Thurne, which seems now to lose its name as a river,
and take that of the " Hundred Stream." About half a
H
100 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
mile above the railway bridge is the mouth of Kendal, or
Candler's, Dyke, a narrow winding stream, up which we
turned, soon to find ourselves bordered by tall reeds on
either hand, and then sailing through a wilderness of
water and reeds so tall that they bounded our view.
This is Heigham Sounds, now greatly overgrown, and
a capital place for wild fowl ; also for rudd, which here
attain a very large size, and go in immense shoals. Out
of the channel the water is extremely shallow. In the
channel, particularly in Kendal Dyke, I have caught a
good number of pike.
The fishing on all these Broads — Hickling, Horsey, and
the Sounds — is nominally preserved, but fair anglers do
not seem to be interfered with. At all events, in the
channel and the dykes one may pretty well do as one
likes, and no attempt has ever been made to set up an
exclusive right to the rivers. I note that a Fishery
Preservation Society has been formed to abolish illegal
netting, and to overlook this district, and under the
auspices of this it is probable that riparian owners will
not object to anglers taking a share of the superabundant
fish out of the Broads. I call the fish superabundant
advisedly, and will adhere to the term until anglers can
assure me that they know what to do (usefully) with the
number of fish they catch, and cease from throwing them
away on the bank, after ascertaining their weight and
number.
Well, we sailed as close to the wind as we could — and
HICKLING BROAD. 103
nothing goes closer than a lateener — and could just lie
the channel through another reedy lake, called Whites-
lea, on to the vast expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake
400 acres in extent, and looking three times as large,
owing to the extreme lowness of its shores, the absence
of any landmarks, and the great concave sky, which
seems to fit close down all around it. A channel across
it is marked by posts, which we left to starboard, as we
sailed over it. The width of the channel you will have
to determine by experiment, as there is no guide. At
a guess, it is twenty yards wide, and all the rest of the
Broad is so shallow that you might wade over it, and
find a hard, yellow, gravel bottom almost everywhere.
Trusting in our two-feet draught, we sailed hither and
thither, and felt our way checked, as the keel cut through
masses of weed, and then the bound forward, as the
boat entered a part clear of weeds. These bunches of
weed have lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad,
which used to be comparatively free from them, and the
promontories of reeds are pushing themselves further
and further into the lake, and the bays between are get-
ting shallower. Still, the lake is large enough, as yet,
to be able to stand a little filching from.
We sailed down to Catfield staithe, on the western
side of the Broad, and not far from Catfield railway
station, on the line already alluded to. Then we went
to Hickling staithe, at the north end, where there is an
inn, the " Pleasure Boat," and walked into the village to
post letters, and to receive some.
104 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Boats of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing
purposes. They are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed,
and the usual method of propulsion is by "setting."
The setter sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the
boat along with a light pole, at a great rate. There are
often setting races at local regattas, and great fun they
are.
The number of broken-up lateeners on the shores of
the Broad attest the decay of large pleasure-boat sailing
on these remote waters, but the smaller class of centre-
HICZLINO 8TAITHE.
board boats are coming into favour, and are, perhaps,
more suitable.
After lunch we had to reef the great foresail, which
was not an easy operation, as the reef was taken in along
the yard, and we had to go into the jolly boat to get to
HICKLING BROAD. 105
*
the end of it. The jolly boat committed a joke itg
species is very fond of, under similar circumstances;
that is, it slipped away from under one of us, and left
him clinging to the yard, with his legs in the water.
I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea
and Heigham Sound, for the fishing and fowling, one
December with a friend. I stayed in the little cottage
on the small island in Whiteslea. We had two boats
and two men to attend to us during the day, but at night
we were left to ourselves in the lonely house, where the
water oozed through the floor, and the beds were so
damp that I slept completely clothed in my oilies.
There was a bitter north-easter sweeping over the dry
reeds under a leaden sky, and the sport was of the
slowest. I never felt the cold so much, accustomed
though I am to winter pike-fishing.
illETHAM BROAD.
CHAPTER XI.
HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.
T was exhilarating work sailing over
Hickling Broad, and we were very loth
to leave its wind-swept waters. We
had a rare run back along the channel,
and over "Whiteslea, and then turned
sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow
dyke leading to Horsey Mere. This dyke
is a mile long, and of fair depth, but so
narrow that people fishing on the banks had
to hold up their rods as we passed, while our sail
swept the tops of the reeds. Then we shot into Horsey
Mere, a lake of 130 acres in extent, with a small island
in the middle. It was very clear, and very shallow, the
channel for wherries lying along the west side of it, into
Palling dyke, which leads north-westward for several
miles until it reaches almost to the sea.
The white sand-hills on the coast were plainly visible,
and the thunder of the surf was audible, as the sea was
HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. 107
but a mile and a half away. We did what nearly every
one else does who visits Horsey in a yacht ; landed at
the east end of it, and walked to the coast, but it was
too rough to bathe. These sand-hills form a very
curious barrier between the salt and fresh water. They
are steep and high, and make one wonder by what force
of wind and waves they attained their present shape and
dimensions, in so flat a country, and why the like forces
do not dissipate them over the plain. Breaches have
been made in them by the sea, from time to time,
notably in the winter of 1791, when a very high tide
made several gaps, and threatened to overwhelm the
marshes inland.
" I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads," said
Wynne, when we returned to the yacht. "It is so very
still and lonely, and its quiet is in such contrast to the
roar and unrest of the sea close by. Is the fishing free
here ? "
" No, it is supposed to be preserved, though I don't
suppose anyone will object to our catching a pike for
supper, if you wish. There are no pike like those in
Horsey, the proverb says."
But the wind had fallen as suddenly as it arose, and
the glamour of a fiery sunset shone over the silent mere.
An occasional cry of coot, or duck, or splash of fish, and
the distant sound of the sea, but emphasized the stillness
around us. We sat on the cabin roof, and talked lazily,
as the dusk came slowly on, and our voices were low, in
unison with the evening hush.
108 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
" I do not wonder," said Wynne, " that you are so
fond of these waters. An evening like this, in such
watery solitude, makes a strong impression upon one."
Horsey Mere is only accessible by water. There is a
railway station — Martham — about four miles off, but if
you walked from there you could get no sight of the
Broad without a boat, and boats are not procurable.
" What are these cushions stuffed with ? " asked
Wynne, as we lay down for the night.
"Horse-hair," I expect; "but then age has made
them hard and crabbed."
" Well, I think that the sleeping accommodation
might be vastly improved in your Norfolk boats gene-
rally. Canvas cots or hammocks, air beds and pillows,
would all be better than the thin cushions there are in
the cutter. I sha'n't sleep to-night, for I have pins and
needles all over me already,"
And in five minutes he was snoring I One could sleep
ou a deal plank, or even on an oak one, after a few days
and nights on the Broads.
We woke very early in the morning, and found that
a brisk breeze had sprung up, and that the lateener had
dragged her moorings and drifted into the reeds. She
had taken no harm, for, short of being run down by a
wherry, there are no dangers of shipwreck on the Broads,
and you might drift about unmoored, for all the hurt
there is likely to accrue.
After a hurried breakfast we hoisted the foresail, and
HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. Ill
tore down the dyke into Heigbam Sounds, across which
we sped fast, throwing the shallow water into waves,
which shook the reeds mightily. When we emerged
from Kendal dyke into the main stream, we turned to
the left, and in less than a mile reached Martham Ferry,
which was stretched across the river while some wagons
were passing across. This ferry is a large raft, which
is kept in a recess on either side of the river, and floated
across, reaching from hank to bank when required.
There is no one to tend it, and if it happens to be on
the other side, a wayfarer must wait until some one
appears on the other side to get it across. It is a won-
derfully clumsy thing to look at, and is not regarded
with friendly eyes by the wherrymen, who run their
wherries full tilt against it too often at night, or when,
with the wind astern, they are unable to stop. One
wherryman, exasperated beyond endurance, let his
wherry go at it with all her force when running before
half a gale, but only smashed the bows of his vessel, not
moving the ferry a bit or injuring it, for it is heavily
bound with iron to withstand such experiments.
We sailed to and fro until the wagons had passed, but
a wherry coming up had to lower her sail in a hurry,
and then struck the raft with great force before it could
be drawn away. This jammed it diagonally across the
river, and it was half an hour before it could be moved.
At the other side of the ferry, and at the mouth of a
dyke, is a capital place for pike and large eels, and I
112 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
can conceive of no better-looking pike place than the
mile of stream between here and Somerton or Martham
Broad. The water is deep and clear, with a stratum of
lily leaves, about four feet below the surface, and here
and there lilies on the surface. As we sailed over its
glassy surface, not ruffled by the crossing wind, on
account of the high reeds and grasses, we could see
thousands of fish of all sizes darting away beneath us ;
and at the end of the main dyke, where it divides into
two, is a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly bottom,
where there are any quantity of perch and large roach.
It is the beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing, but
"fine and far off" must you fish, for the water, though
deep, is passing clear. It is easily accessible from
Martham railway station, and preferably from Potter
Heigharn, where, too, you could procure a boat.
The right-hand dyke leads to Somerton Broad, another
reed-surrounded lake, possessing no particular merit.
From Martham ferry we walked up a steep road to the
village, lying around a broad green, and had we time
we would have ascended the tower of the church, which
is a conspicuous object for miles, and from which a
splendid view of sea and lake is attainable.
In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway,
whose history is told there, but is too unpleasant to be
more than referred to here.
After being so long on board a small vessel, one's legs
become cramped and unfit for walking, and the walk to
HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. 113
Martham and back, only a couple of miles, quite tired
us, and we were glad to get back to our little craft. In
half an hour's time we were passing under Heigham
Bridge, and watching our man playing a seven-pound
pike in the pool below. On the bank, by the cutter, he
had arranged for our inspection a score of bream, from
one pound to three pounds in weight, which he and
another had caught early that morning and the night
before.
Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth, it
may be mentioned that yachts may safely be moored to
the bank anywhere above Acle, care being taken to avoid
the obviously shallow parts.
In many places you will notice the eel-sets, which are
fixed nets across the river for the purpose of intercepting
the silver-bellied eels on their migration to the sea.
These nets are only set at night, and there is a man in
charge (sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut),
to lower the nets when craft are passing, so that they do
not obstruct the navigation. Immense quantities of eels
are caught in these nets, and it has been proved by an
inquiry conducted by the Yare Preservation Society,
that other fishes are not caught therein, and that the
sport of the anglers is in no wise interfered with.
CHAPTER XII.
BACK TO YARMOUTH.
'T was two o'clock when we hoisted a reefed
sail on the cutter, leaving the lateener in
charge of the owner, who had joined us,
and it was three o'clock when we reached
Acle bridge, having done tho seven miles in
the hour, wind and tide with us. We left Acle
at four, being much delayed in lowering and
raising the mast, and reached Yarmouth (12
miles) by half-past five ; so we made a pretty quick
passage. We laid by the " Ale Stores " for the night,
and were very careful to have the yacht strongly moored,
for the tide runs fast. We were interested in the way
the wherries dropped down out of the North River, with
lowered masts, and a chain or weight out over the bows,
so as to retard their speed, as they drifted stern first,
steering, of course, by the pressure of the faster- flowing
tide against the rudder. We had intended to drop down
in a similar way, through the swing bridge just below
BACK TO YARMOUTH. 115
us, and to go, by sea, to Lowestoft, a distance of only
eight miles ; but as the wind kept getting up, and
Breydon was white with foam, we put off making up our
minds until the morning, for the disproportionate
bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are not
very suitable for sea work.
Of course, we strolled upon the pier, and then returned
to the quay- side by moonlight. We found that it was
dead low water, and that the yacht had receded so much
below the level of the quay, that no plank within reach
would touch her. The man was in the forepeak fast
asleep, and it was a long time before we could wake him,
and then we jumped on to some wherries lying near, and
he brought the jolly to us.
We woke at times during the night, and felt the boat
swaying, and heard the wind howling in the rigging to
a very pretty tune. In the morning there was no abate-
ment, and although it was off the land, we shirked the
wetting we should get at sea, and decided to go over
Breydon, and up the Waveney. As the tide would not
make until the middle of the morning, we took the jolly
and rowed down to the harbour mouth at Gorleston. It
is interesting to note how, for three miles, the river flows
parallel with the sea, and, on the average, under half a
mile from it, the dividing land being nothing more
substantial than shingle and sand. Deeply interesting
is it, also, to read of the early struggles of the inhabi-
tants of Yarmouth to maintain a navigable waterway.
116 EIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AKD SUFFOLK.
Sometimes the river would open a new outlet for itself,
and sometimes they made a new one for it ; and, time
after time, the river mouth got silted up with the
wearing away of this soft eastern shore. Even now
there is often insufficient water at the bar for deeply-
laden vessels of ordinary size, and the entrance is par-
ticularly unsafe for sailing vessels to enter unassisted at
certain times. Picturesque sights abound on the river,
and the quays. Fishing smacks taking their brown nets
on board from carts ranged alongside; boats of every
form and size hauled up on the beach ; vessels building ;
and vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs ; a regular
covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and
hundreds of similar sights of deep interest to a man
bitten with the joint love of the water and the pic-
turesque.
CHAPTER XIII.
YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON.
N reaching the yacht, after rowing back
with the first of the flow, we started
with two reefs down to beat over Brey-
don, on which the wind against the
tide raised a respectable sea. There
was a great deal of weight in the wind,
for it was veering towards the south-west,
having been north-west all night, and a strong
south-west wind is generally full of puffs and
squalls. Many times we had the water over the coam-
ings of the well, and the lee plankways were always
awash.
" This is something like fun! " gasped Wynne, as he
eased off the jib sheet to a squall, and the salt foam
dashed in his face ; " but there won't be much skin left
on my hands by the time we get to the top of Breydon.
These enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work
If the yachts had finer bows, they would nofc want
118 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND
nearly so much head- sail, and would go as fast, if not
faster."
This was heresy to our man, who had seen no other
rig for river boats all his life, and he and Wynne had a
heated argument on the matter, without either being
much the wiser.
On reaching the top of Breydon, we turned to the left,
up the Waveney, for half a mile, as far as Burgh Castle,
passing over the dreaded Burgh flats, where a wherry
and a yacht were both hard aground, waiting for the
tide to float them off. The deep water channel is not
near the line of posts as one would imagine, but close
along the west shore. We touched two or three times,
but did not stick, and at last moored alongside a wherry,
and landed to inspect the ruins on the top of the hill.
No one passing along these waters should miss the ruins
of Burgh Castle, a Roman station of great interest.
There is a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with
towers at intervals, and at the corners ; and we spent a
considerable time in making sketches of the ruins, and
admiring the extensive view.
We could, if we chose, continue on up the Waveney,
but the next five miles of river are narrow, uninteresting,
and with a heavy run of tide, while at the end is a fixed
bridge — St. Olave's, where the mast would have to be
lowered. So we turned back into the Yare, and sailed
up to the mouth of the new cut at Beedham. This is a
ship canal, about three miles long, connecting the Yare
YAEMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON. H9
with the Waveney. The tide flows and ebbs from the
Reedham end of it. It is perfectly straight, and if the
wind should be straight up or down it, there is nothing
for it but to tow. Now, however, we had a beam wind,
and tore along merrily enough. But trouble was in
store for us. The canal is wide enough, but it is not
kept "didled" out (" didling," or "dydling," being a
Norfolk term for dredging, with scoops at the end of
poles, and lifting the mud on to the banks), and the
sides are very shallow. In the distance, we saw a large
billy -boy, or topsail smack, from the Thames, and as we
approached, it became only too plain from the rake of
her mast, that she was aground in the very middle of the
channel. We got the mainsail down directly, and ran
along under the jib, and then, as we expected, ran aground
alongside of her. A wherry coming behind lowered her
sail, and stopped in time. The smack was laden with
rice for Messrs. Colmans' Works, and her skipper, instead
of going round by Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by
Lowestoft. After much shoving and towing we got
past, and left the smack patiently waiting the rise of the
tide, or the anival of a tug.
[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been
much improved in depth by dredging, and piling the
banks.]
There is very good fishing to be had in the cut, and
the banks are sound and dry, which is a rare thing on
these rivers. There is a lift-bridge at Haddiscoe railway
120 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
station, near the end of the cut, which takes some
time to get opened; this is a great inconvenience,
and even a serious matter when you are sailing
fast, as there is not room to come about. They
also sometimes fail to open the bridge wide enough, and
some time since a large yacht had her mainsail torn as
she passed through, by its catching on the corner of the
uplifted bridge. A toll of Is. for each yacht is taken,
and a man holds out a bag on the end of a pole to
receive it. The toll for wherries depends in amount
upon whether they have the bridge opened for them or
go through with mast lowered, and at night a chain
used to be put across to prevent them stealing through
unobserved, but the chain was frequently "charged" at
full speed, and broken.
In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney,
and, looking back, we could see St. Olave's bridge, a
rather handsome structure. There are a few houses
grouped rather prettily, and a good inn, the "Bell,"
close by the Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe
station, and about a mile from Fritton Decoy, a favourite
lake for fishing, which we shall afterwards mention.
We then passed through a railway swing bridge,
where the East Suffolk Kail way passes over, and sailed
without further incident some two miles further to
another swing bridge at Somerleyton, where the Lowes-
toft line passes over. This bridge is the worst on the
rivers to pass when wind and tide are against you, as
YARMOUTH TO SOMEBLEYTON.
123
they so frequently are, and I am always glad to be well
clear of its piles and projections, through which the tide
swirls so swiftly.
The reach below the bridge used to be the best in the
whole river for pike, but the greater run of tide in recent
years and the salter water has spoiled the pike fishing,
for which one has now to go higher up the river.
There is a very good inn at the top of the bank to the
west of the line, called the " Duke's Head," and a very
beautiful belt of woods skirts the marshes on the east
side of the river, where some delicious " bits " may be
obtained, and birds, butterflies, and flowers abound.
Somerleyton village is well worth a visit, for the
owner of the estate has built some most artistic cottages
and houses, which, with another score of years' wear,
will be beautiful. The hall, occupied by Sir Savile
Grossley, M.P., stands in a sylvan park.
DACE,
CHAPTER XIV.
FllOM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES,
HE angling in all this part of the Waveney
is extremely good, and the bream and
roach are of large size. It is not nearly
so much frequented as the other rivers or
the upper part of the Waveney, and is
practically unfished, on account of the difficulty
in obtaining boats, there being no boating-
station nearer than Oulton Broad, five miles
away. Still, it is worth while rowing from
Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton, for the takes of
bream there lately have been wonderful, both as to size
and number. The river is broad and deep, and one part
is as good as another, provided that you select a suffi-
cient depth of water.
"VVe had no time to fish, and as a matter of fact I can-
not stay to fish, if there is a good breeze blowing ; sailing
first, fishing after 1
We lay to at the mouth of Oulton dyke, to get our
SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES. 125
lunch, which we had put off rather too long. The dyka
is nearly as broad as the river, and a mile and a half
long, leading to Oulton Broad, which we intended to
visit, after going up the Waveney to Beccles, At the
junction of the dyke with the river there is an excellent
fishing spot, with a great depth of water. While we lay
there, a large two-inasted vessel, a brigantine of 100 tons,
came along the dyke at a good pace, with topsails only
set, and looked as if she were going to scoop all the water
out of the river with her great bluff bows. Her crew
were pointing out to us, as we lay on the Waveney, and
presently the hail came across the narrow neck of marsh,
" Do we turn up past you to go to Beccles ? "
" Yes, sharp to port ; right around 1 "
The topsails came down, and the mainsail went up
with great celerity, and with the aid of her aft canvas,
and the helm hard over, she came round the acute angle
of the sharp bend with creditable quickness, looking a
veritable Goliath on those comparatively narrow waters
As she was now head to wind, down came her canvas,
and half-a-dozen men went ashore with a long line to
tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 miles,
by which time they must have had enough of it. She
was in sight all day over the marsh.
After lunch, we sailed up the Waveney, having to
tack a good portion of the way; but the river is so
tortuous that some of the reaches can be sailed which-
ever way the wind is, without tacking.
126 RIVEKS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
" How remarkably clear the water is 1 " remarked
Wynne.
" Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below
us, and the river is deep close up to the banks. It is a
very pleasant river to sail upon."
" And what a lot of small fish there are I "
"Yes. The Waveney ought to be the best bottom-
fishing river in England, it is so deep, clear, and sweet,
but the poachers used to harry it dreadfully, with their
long, small-meshed nets, and it was even trawled up by
smacks, to get bait for sea-fishing, but the Norfolk and
Suffolk Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly all,
and the river is rapidly recovering itself. There are
some very large perch in it, and wherever you see the
bank gravelly and free from reeds, the bottom will be
hard too, and a haunt of perch. Look at those bul-
rushes."
" What huge ones, and what a quantity of them 1 "
" Yes, the marshmen sometimes dry the heads, and
rub them up to stuff pillows aud cushions with."
On the north bank is the church of Burgh St. Peter,
the tower of which is built in gradually-lessening steps,
and presents a very strange, un-English appearance.
The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and
pretty bits continually present themselves. Two miles
below Beccles there is a swing railway bridge, which is
tolerably easy to get through, as there is not a great
rush of tide through it, as under the bridges lower down.
SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLE9. 127
Beccles church had been a prominent object all the
way, and when we arrived at Sayer's Grove, so prettily
sylvan a place that we decided to stay there the night,
we went in the useful jolly another mile to Beccles
bridge, 23 miles from Yarmouth, until lately a narrow
arched stone structure, but now replaced by a wider and
more convenient bridge. Passing through, we skirted
the town of Beccles, until we came below the church, a
sight no one should miss who is in the neighbourhood.
Viewed from the river, it stands on the brow of a hill, in
a commanding position. Landing, we climbed up a
series of steps and reached the. churchyard, whence a
splendid view westward is obtained, the river winding in
and out through the green marshes towards Bungay.
The south doorway of the church is richly ornamented,
but the peculiar feature of the church is that the tower, a
very high and massive structure, is separate from it.
Beccles is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with good
railway accommodation, as a glance at the map will
show. It is a cheap place to live in, as there are no
heavy rates, these being defrayed by the letting of
valuable marshes belonging to the town. It is a healthy
little place, and pretty withal, and would, I think, be a
capital place for retired persons with small incomes to
settle in.
The river is navigable for wherries and small yachts,
for about ten miles further up to Bungay, but the navi-
gation is rather troublesome, and there are two or three
locks to be passed through.
128 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
It is worth while to row up the river a few miles to
Shipineadow lock. The river all the way is very pretty,
with crystal clear water, and the lock itself is quaint and
old-fashioned.
After laying in some stores we returned to the yacht,
and spent a peaceful evening in the shadow of the
wooded hill, beneath which we were moored.
KIVKH WAVliNKY.
CHAPTER XV.
OUT/TON BROAD.
N the night we were awakened by the sound
of very heavy rain pattering on the deck
and cabin roof, and presently we dis-
covered that the recent very dry weather
had opened the seams of the wood, and
sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts
to escape them.
" My nose is wearing away with one dreadful
drop."
" Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh ! "
"What's the matter?"
" A drop went splash into my eye ! "
We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly
became a case of " a drop too much," and we sat up in
despair. Just as things were getting uncomfortably
wet, the storm passed off, and the morning dawned with
a wondrous clearness and brilliance, while the air was
full of the sweet, earthy scents that arise after rain.
130 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
The reeds were fresher and greener, and the grasses and
flowers glittered in the sun, like the radiant ripples on
the water. And so, amid the songs of birds and the
quickened joy of nature, we bowled along down the
Waveney at a merry pace, and in two hours we had
reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into
which necessitated a heavy gibe.
A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened
out before us. This is the most civilized of all the
Broads, and is always gay with yachts sailing about,
and populous with yachts lying at their moorings. It
is of an irregular shape, and in the bight, or " ham," at
the north-east end of it, the yachts are thickly clustered.
Also, for what reason it is hard to say, many of the old
and worn-out fishing smacks of Lowestoft are brought
into this corner, and moored against the bank, where
very many of them have sunk, and all are picturesque
in the extreme. Some large sea yachts also use this
bight as a laying-up place for the winter. The river
yachts and sailing boats are of every size and rig, and a
paddle in and out among them is of interest to a nautical
mind. At the lower end of the lake is a lock which
gives access for sea-going vessels to Lake Lothing, which
is a tidal lake, two miles long, ending in Lowestoft
harbour and the sea. By the lock is one of the most
charming hostelries it is possible to conceive. It ought
to be called the " Angler's Best," were it not already
called the " Wherry Hotel." Here there is capital
OULTON BROAD. 133
accommodation for anglers, and boats, bait, &c., are pro-
vided at reasonable rates. There is also another com-
fortable inn, called the " Commodore," and there are
two smaller inns, the " Waveney Hotel " — the landlord
of which, George Smith, is an excellent waterman — and
the " Lady of the Lake." The railway station is close
by, and is now called Oulton Broad Station, but was
formerly Mutford, that being the name of the village at
the east end of the Broad. The village is very prettily
situated between the two lakes, and is only two miles
from the sea. There are lodgings to be had there, and
for a place combining the attractions of lake, river,
and sea, it has few equals. Of course, the Broad is
within easy reach of Lowestoft, the most attractive
watering-place on the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk. It
has a fine pier, good houses, cliffs, a capital harbour for
yachts, a harbour for fishing vessels, where the artist
will find much that is picturesque, and an old part of
the town on the higher ground to the north, which has
many features of interest. It has not the noise and
and bustle of Yarmouth, but it is gay enough for reason-
able people.
At Lowestoft, facing the harbour, is the club house of
the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors
to Lowestoft would find it an advantage to join the
Yacht Club for the sake of the conveniences afforded by
the club-house.
Oulton Broad has plenty of fish in it, and the fishing
4 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
is free. When the rivers are flooded, and the rank
water off the marshes pours into the river, the fish of all
kinds crowd into the purer waters of the Broad in sur-
prising numbers. Formerly it was noted for its perch,
but for some time they appear to have decreased in
numbers. Lately, however, they have been more freely
caught. In a few more years the benefits of the Norfolk
and Suffolk Fisheries Act will be more widely felt, as
the abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly testifies.
Pike are present sometimes in great quantity, but the
supply seems to fluctuate considerably. For a few
weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly nume-
rous, and large catches are made. Then they fall off,
and none are caught for some time.
The shooting on the Broad is also free, and in the
large room at the " Wherry Inn " is a most attractive
collection of fishes and birds, which have met their death
in this locality.
The most interesting and tantalizing inhabitant of the
Broad is the grey mullet, large shoals of which may be
seen disporting themselves on the surface. They run to
a large size, and seem to average two or three pounds
hi weight. Anglers cannot catch them as a general
rule, but some persons say that they have succeeded,
using small hooks baited with strange baits, such as the
beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage stump. I
fancy that by using a fly cast, buoyed at intervals by
bits of cork, and having small hooks baited with gentles,
OULTON BROAD. 135
and then paying out a long line so as to cover a shoal,
some sport might be had. At all events, the experiment
is worth trying some day when there is no wind for
sailing. The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other
obstruction, has a habit of leaping high out of the
water, and frequently leaps into boats. Once, while I
was sailing through Reedham Bridge, a grey mullet, of
four pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat towing
astern, and was captured.
At Oulton the mullet are often shot with arrows
having heavy lines attached, while they are accidentally
confined in the lock between the Broad and Lake
Lothing.
Well, we spent the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and
as I was saying good-bye to Wynne at the station, I
asked him what he thought of the Broads.
" The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing
in England. I shall bring a boat here in the winter
for wild-fowl shooting on Breydon, and I shall certainly
come again next summer."
So ended our cruise.
BUFFE.
CHAPTER XVL
ORMESBY AND FRITTON.
HEEE are still some very important Broads
in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could
not mention in an account of a cruise,
because they are not accessible from the
navigable waters, and, as a matter of
fact, I know comparatively little about
them for that reason. There are the Ormesby,
Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together in a
straggling group four or five miles north-east-
ward of Acle. Altogether, they contain 800 acres of
water, but much of this is overgrown by reeds. The
Muck Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge, is their
outlet into the river Bure. They are very easily acces-
sible from Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the
North Norfolk Railway, and boats may be obtained at
the Eel's Foot, and the Sportsman's Arms, the former
having fair staying accommodation. The fishing is free,
at all events to persons going to the houses named, and
ORMESBY AND FRITTON. 137
uncommonly good sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd,
and bream, the number of a catch being counted by the
hundred, and the weight by the stone. For fishing,
pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as good a place as
any to visit.
The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy,
a long curving lake, about a mile from St. Olave's
station, on the Yarmouth and Lowestoft Railway, and
Haddiscoe station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft Bail-
way. It is only open to anglers from April to September,
being closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl
decoys, which are still worked on it, by the two pro-
prietors. For a note upon these decoys, and others in
Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon decoys,
written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a
new edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock's
" Fauna of Norfolk," issued by the publishers of this
book, and for descriptive accounts to my own larger
book, " Norfolk Broads and Rivers," published by Wm.
Blackwood and Sons.
Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its
waters are very deep. It is, in fact, a lake, rather than
a Broad proper. It is extremely well stocked with fish,
and good sport may generally be obtained there. Boats
can be obtained at " Fritton Old Hall."
APPENDIX.
KAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS.
0 begin with, it may be well to state
that Norwich itself can be reached from
London by two lines of railway — one
jj via Colchester and Ipswich, and the
other by Cambridge and Ely, the journey
taking from three to four hours. From
Norwich, Yarmouth and Lowestoft may
be reached in an hour of slow travelling,
and as the line runs by the river the whole way, and
every station is convenient for fishing purposes, it will
be desirable to give a list of them, with remarks upon
the adjacent fishing places.
WHITLINGHAM.
This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing,
although occasionally the fish seem to head up, and
good takes are to be had. Good rowing boats may be
obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes' walk from
BAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS. 139
the station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and
Norwich every hour. The reach of the old river is very
lovely.
BRUNDALL
Is the station for " Coldham Hall," at which inn visitors
can be accommodated. The inn is ten minutes' walk
from the station down the river, and across the ferry.
There are plenty of boats, and the place is much fre-
quented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there
are large numbers of pike, and it is customary to row
down trailing a bait behind. Roach and bream are
plentiful.
BUCKENHAM FERRY.
From this station you have ten minutes' walk down
to the Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the
fishing generally is good.
CANTLET.
Close by the station is the " Bed House " Inn, where
there is good accommodation for visitors. Boats can be
had. The fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher
up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When the
water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.
BEEDHAM.
The " Ferry " Inn is ten minutes' walk. Good accom-
modation. The bream run large, so do the perch, of
which there used to be large numbers under the ferry
boat.
140 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
The line divides at Eeedham, one part going to Yar-
mouth and the other to Lowestoft. There is no fishing
place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the Lowestoft
line there are —
HADDISCOE,
whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to
obtain, but the landlord of the " Bell " Inn, at St.
Olave's bridge, might procure you one. This is the
station for Fritton Decoy.
SOMERLEYTON.
This would be an excellent fishing station if boats
could be procured, but you cannot rely upon being able
to borrow one. The porters at the swing-bridge, or the
landlord of the " Duke's Head," might direct you where
to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two.
The bream are very large and numerous. The good
fishing in this part of the river has been exemplified by
Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a day
— five bream weighing 20 Ibs., and one bream weighing
6| Ibs.
OULTON BROAD.
See the last chapter for full information as to this
important fishing station.
Another Line from Norwich leads to—
WROXHAM.
7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and
pike, although it is much fished. Boats at Jimpson's
RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS. 141
or Wliittaker's, where there is also fair accommodation
for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down
stream, from the hridge. It can be fished by per-
mission only. Tickets to fish on the Broad can be
obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing Tackle
Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat.
COLTISHALL.
Two miles further. The fishing is much better here
than is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful.
Enquire at the waterside who is likely to have one at
liberty.
The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth
through the heart of the Broad District to North Wai-
sham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer line.
The stations from Yarmouth are —
ORMESBY.
A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of
which are free. The fishing is as good as it can be for
pike, rudd, roach, and bream. Boats at the " Eel's
Foot" and "Sportsman's Arms." Staying accommo-
dation at the former.
MARTHAM.
Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is
more convenient.
POTTER HEIOHAM.
Inns, the " Falgate " and Waterman's Arms," where
142 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
there is staving accommodation. Good boats at Apple-
gate's. The river Thurne and the channels through
Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd,
perch, roach, pike, and eels.
CATFIELD.
The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient
for boats.
STALHAM.
Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the
fishing is excellent. Plenty of boats obtainable at the
end of the dyke. Inns, the "Maid's Head" and the
" Swan," both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty
village.
Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station
of interest.
On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft,
ST. OLAVE'S is the nearest station to Fritton.
ACLE
Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and
Yarmouth, joining the old line at Brundall.
Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning
Ferry, on the Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay
at, kept by a good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson,
who can be relied upon to make his visitors comfortable.
At Horning village, the "New "Inn deserves mention,
and boats can be procured there. Horning is about four
miles' drive from Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT. 143
The reader is requested to look at the Map, and note
the relative position of the various places. As to fishing,
it can hardly be said that one is better than another,
for all are so good.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
UNDER this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain
Bye-laws have been made, with which the reader should
make himself acquainted.
APPROVED BYE-LAWS.
CLOSE TIME— ALL WATERS.
1. — No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or attempt to
catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, within the
limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of Sep-
tember and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any
other kind of fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th
day of June, both days inclusive, except Smelts, Bait, and Eels,
as hereinafter provided.
NETS GENERALLY.
2. — No person shall, for the purpose of taking Fish within the
limits of the above Act, do any of the following things : —
(1.) Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour after sun-
set and one hour before sunrise, except in the River
Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below
Wisbeach Bridge.
Use or attempt to use, at any time before the 30th day of
June, 1890, for the purpose of taking Fish, other than
144 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Tench, Smelts, Bait, and Eels, any Net having a mesh
of less dimensions when wet than three inches from
knot to knot, measured on each side of the square, or
twelve inches all round.
(3.) Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or facin?,
with a mesh of less dimensions when wet than seven
inches from knot to knot, measured on each side of the
square, or 28 inches all round.
(4.) Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river, any Bow
Net.
(5.) Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river, any Drag
Net having a poke or pocket.
(6.) Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind in the
under-mentioned waters : —
(1.) The River Tare or Wensum —
(2.) The River Waveney —
(3.) The River Bure, below the lower entrance into Wrox-
ham Broad —
(4.) The River Ant, below the lower entrance into Barton
Broad—
(5.) The River Thurne, below the entrance into Somerton
Broad—
except with the previous permission in writing of the Board of
Conservators, under their Common Seal,
3.— No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use.
or attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, unless it is sufficiently
weighted to sink vertically in the water, or take, or attempt to
take, Fish by placing two or more Nets behind or near to each
other, or use any other device or artifice so as practically to
diminish the size of the mesh of any net allowed to be used by
these Bye-Laws, or to evade this provision.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT. 145
PROHIBITING USE OF TRIMMERS, &c., IN NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
4. — No person shall use, or attempt to use, any Trimmer,
Ligger, Dead Line, or Snare, or any like Instrument or Engine,
for the purpose of taking Fish in any navigable river within the
limits of the above Act, except Lines for taking Eels as herein-
after provided.
TAKING SMELTS.— RIVERS TARE AND WENSUM.
5. — No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare or Wensum for the
purpose of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or Drop Net, between
the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May, both days in-
clusive, and then only between the New Mills, in the parish of
Saint Swithin, in the City of Norwich, or Trowse Bridge, in
Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and the junction of the Rivers Yare
and Wensum at a place known as Trowse Hythe, and between
Hardley Cross and the junction of the Rivers Yare and Waveney.
6. — No person shall use, or attempt to use, a Cast Net or Drop
Net exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the River Yare or Wensum,
within the limits of the above Act.
TAKING SMELTS. — RIVER WAVENEY.
7. — No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use,
or attempt to use, in the River Waveney, above the Burgh
Cement works, any Net for the purpose of taking Smelts, except
between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May, both
days inclusive, and then only at the places and by the means
hereinafter mentioned, viz., between Rose Hall Fleet, and the
Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and in the pen of Shipmeadow
Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not exceeding 16 feet in
diameter, and if any such Net be used between one hour after
sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall be used with
a light or flare, and not otherwise.
1-16 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
TAKING SMELTS. — RIVERS OUSK, NAR, AND NENE.
8. — No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, take
or kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts in the Rivers Ouse,
Nar, or Nene, between the 1st day of April and the 31st day of
August, both days inclusive.
9. — No person shal1, within the limits of the above Act, use or
attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, for the purpose
of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions,
when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot,
measured on each side of the square.
TAKING SMELTS.— BREYDON WATER.
10.— No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use,
or attempt to use, in the water known as Breydon Water, for the
purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the months of May, June,
July, and August, or any Net between the 1st day of September
and the 30th duy of April, both days inclusive, having a mesh of
less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot
to knot, measured on each side of the square.
TAKING BAIT. — NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
11.— No person shall, for the purpose of taking Bait in any
navigable river within the limits of the above Act (except in the
Kiver Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below
AYrisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast Net, or any
Cast Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-
eighths of an inch from knot to kuot, measured on each side of the
tquare.
TAKING BAIT.— ALL WATERS.
12.— No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use,
or attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding twelve yards in
circumference, between the llth day of October and the 1st day
of April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding eight yards in
circumference at any other time of the year, or any such net,
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT. 147
having a sack, or purse exceeding- fourteen inches in depth, when
extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait ; and the word
" Bait" shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud, Bream, Dace, Ruff or
Pope, Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less than eight inches
from the nose to the fork of the tail.
13. — No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, Net
for Bait at any time on a Sunday ; and no person shall, within
such limits, Net for Bait at any time on a week-day except be-
tween one hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, nor
unless such Bait is for use in angling, or trolling, or taking Eels
within the limits of the above Act.
TAKING EELS. — RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM,
ABOVE HARDLEY CROSS.
14. — No person shall, for the purpose of taking Eels in tli3
Rivers Tare and Wensum, above Ilardley Cross, do any of the
following things : —
(I.) Use or attempt to use in the months of April, May, and
June, a line with a hook or hooks, except in connection
with a rod used for the purpose of Angling.
(2.) Use or attempt to use any Net in the mouths of April,
May, and June.
(3.) Use or attempt to use at any other time of the year, a Line,
whether fixed or not, with more than one hook, except
in connection with a rod used for the purpose of Angling.
(4.) Use or attempt to use any Net other than a Skim or Skein
Ntt.
TAKING EELS.— ALL OTHER WATERS.
15. — In all other waters within the limits of the above Act,
lines with one hook only, whether fixed or not, and fixed Nets,
but no others, may be used at any time for taking Eels only.
16. — No person shall use or attempt to use, in any water within
the limits of the above Act, a Dag or Spear, for the purpose of
taking Fish other than Eels.
148 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,
ALL WATERS.
17. — Any person, within the limits of the above Act, taking
any Pish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any Net allowed by the
Bye laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, or Bait respectively,
shall immediately return such first-mentioned Fish to the water
without avoidable injury.
18. — The foregoing Bye-laws shall not apply to any other than
fresh-water Fish, or to the water known as Breydon Water,
except as to Smelts, as hereinbefore provided.
/ hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the Bye-
lans made by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, and
that such Bye-laws have been approved by one of Her Majesty's
Principal Secretaries of State, and have been duly advertised as
approved Bye-lams in newspapers circulated in the Counties of
Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been otlierwise published as the
Board directed.
Sealed by order of the Board.
TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
FROM C ARROW BRIDGE.
To Trowse Hythe
,, Thorpe Second Bridge .
,, Whitlingham Ferry
„ Corby'sDyke
,, Postwick Grove .
„ Hall . .
„ Wood's End .
„ Wilde's Cottage .
,, Surlingham Ferry .
„ Coldham Hall
,, Walpole's Reed Bush .
,, Buckenham Ferry .
,, Hassingham Dyke
,, LangleyDyke .
YA.BE.
Miles.
i
1*
2
7*
9
10
10}
To Cantley Red House
,, Devil's House . •
„ Hardley Mill .
„ Dyke .
„ Cross . .
„ Norton Staithe
,, Reedham Ferry .
„ „ End of New Cut
, Upper Seven Mile House
, Bemey Arms
, Burgh Flats . . .
, Yarmouth Drawbridge
, Gorleston Pierhead
Miles.
12}
13*
14
14*
15*
15*
15J
17
18J
20}
21
25
27*
TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
149
FROM REEDHAM BRIDGE.
WAVENEY.
To Herringfleet Bridge
,, Somerleyton Bridge
„ Oulton Dyke
Broad
Miles.
3
4ft
7ft
8i
To Mutford Lock
„ Lowestoft Bridge .
Pierhead
Miles.
9|
FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE.
YAEE.
Miles.
Mile*.
"o Berney Arms
4*
To Dawson's Dip House .
24J
,, Reedham Town .
8
, Barsham's Boat House .
25$
,, Norton Staithe .
9f
, Mouth of Oulton Dyke.
15
,, Hardley Cross
10
, Horse Shoe Point .
16
191
, Oulton Broad
16^
,, Buckenham Ferry
15
, Mutford Bridge .
17*
, ColdhamHall
18*
, Lowestoft Bridge .
19
, Surlingham Ferry .
19f
, Length of New Cut
2ft
, Bramerton Wood's End
21
, Postwick Grove .
22
BUBK.
, Whitlingham
23
To Three-Mile House .
3
, Carrow Bridge
25
,, Runham Swim . .
6ft
„ Six-Mile Hou e . .
6ft
WAVENEY.
,, Seven-Mile House .
8ft
!"o Burgh Cage . . .
4f
„ Stokesby Ferry .
10
,, St. Ola ve's Bridge .
9*
,, Acle Bridge . .
12
„ Mouth of New Cut
9|
„ FishleyMill .
12ft
, Somerleyton Bridge
12*
„ Thurne Mouth
15*
, Mouth of Oulton Dyke .
15
„ St. Benet's Abbey .
17
, Carlton Share Mill
16*
,, Mouth of Ant
17ft
, Seven-Mile Corner
17f
,, Horning Ferry . .
21
, Six-Mile Corner . .
18 J
„ Horning Point . .
22
, Worlingham Staithe .
20
„ Wroxham Broad .
25ft
, Aldeby Staithe .
20ft
,, Wroxham Bridge .
27
, BecclesMill .
21
„ Belaugh
31
, Sayer's Grove . .
22
,, Coltishall Bridge .
34
, Beccles Bridge .
23
„ Aylsham Bridge . .
45
„ Nine Poplars . . .
24*
150 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
TTTUTWE. jf£7«.l
To Thurne Mouth . . 15$
„ Potter Heigham Bridge 19
„ Candler's Dyke . . 19J
„ Hickling Staithe . . 22 j
ANT. mitt.
To Mouth of Ant . . 17J
,, Ludham Bridge . . 18}
„ Mouth of Barton Broad 21 f
,, End of Barton Broad . 22 \
„ Stalham . 23*
„ Stalham Staithe . . 24$
From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim
,, ,, ,, Six -Mile House
„ „ ,, Seven-Mile House
,, Stokesby Ferry
,, Acle Bridge .
From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill .
,, „ ,, Thurue Mouth
,, St. Benefs .
,, ,, Mouth of Ant <
,, Horning Rectory
„ M Ferry
,, >» Poiut
„ ,, ,, Entrance to Wroxham Broad
„ , , , , Wroxham Bridge .
From TVroxham Bridge to Belaugh
„ „ Coltishall
„ Aylsham
From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxhnm Bridge
„ Coltishall
„ ,, „ Aylsham
From Thurue Mouth to Heigham Bridge .
„ ,, ,, Kendal Dyke
„ „ JLckliug Staithe
From River Ant to Ludham Bridge
„ ,, „ Mouth of Barton Broad
,, ,, End of
„ ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad
,, ,, .. .. Staithe
8*
10
12
i
3J
6
5J
7*
9
10
13J
15
4
7
18
27
34
45
FISHING GENERALLY.
TIDES.
h. m.
It ia high water at Lowestoft 0 43 later than at Yarmouth Bar.
„ Cantley 30,, „
Coldham Hall 40,,
Oulton 40., „
,, Horning 40,. ,,
The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at
Yarmouth Bridge.
Spring*. Neaps.
The rise at Yarmouth is 6 feet . 4£ feet
,, Lowestoft ,, 6J ,, . 5J ,,
Cantley „ 2* „ . H „
Oulton „ 2 „ . IJ ..
The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and direction
of the wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.
FISHING GENERALLY.
IN the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of
water, and the shortness of the swims necessitates the
line being heavily weighted, in order that it may sink
rapidly. The floats are necessarily large, particularly
when used for the lower reaches, where there is a con-
siderable tidal current. The boats are moored in a line
with the stream, not across it, as on the Thames, and
the swims are thus very short. For the upper and
clearer waters, the Nottingham»system of angling might
be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the
Norfolk style is practically the best. Worms are used
for bream, and paste for roach. Worms are procurable
at some of the tackle shops, but anglers will do well to
provide them for themselves if possible.
152 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Boats are charged for at the rate of from Is. to 2s.
a- day, but are rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.
Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is
largely used, but a place is rarely baited beforehand.
As there is ample choice of stations, always moor so that
the wind is at your back, and you will thus have smooth
water in front of you.
Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most
of the waterside inns, at Is. to Is. 6d. a score, but to get
the best sport obtain fish from other waters, particularly
dace and gudgeon.
Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are
plentiful everywhere. In the rivers they do not run
very large, a ten-pound fish being considered a good
one, but in a few years' time, with the freedom from
netting the rivers now enjoy, we may expect some very
large ones to be caught in the rivers. In private waters
there are veritable monsters, but the stranger is not
likely to make acquaintance with them.
Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial
bait trailed behind a boat, are the usual modes of fishing
for pike in Norfolk. Trolling with a dead gorge, and
spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the Thames,
are comparatively rarely practised, although I believe
that in some portions of the rivers these methods would
"pay." I have seen fly-fishing for pike practised with
success here, and I firmly believe that on some of the
shallower Broads it would be very deadly.
FISHING GENERALLY. 158
Perch are only locally common wherever there is a
suitable bottom for them, as at Irstead Shoals and
Hickling, and in some portions of the Bure and Wave-
ney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes
caught between three and four pounds in weight.
Bream are most common of all, and may be caught
by hundreds and the stone weight. They run up to five
and six pounds in weight, and a take by two rods in a
day of 150, averaging half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare
event.
Roach are very numerous and large, many running
close to two pounds in weight.
Budd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the
Broads, particularly Ormesby, and give rare sport if you
get among a shoal of them.
Eels are, of course, present in any number, and
"babbing" for them, with a bunch of worms threaded
on to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a warm
night.
Tench are common, but are not often caught with a
rod and line. They are taken in bow nets, and run
very large. In hot weather, in June, they may be taken
by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among
the weeds. Some fishermen are very skilful in this par-
ticular mode of catching them.
Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although
there are plenty of them.
Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the
navigable waters as other fish.
154 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Chub and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.
The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil
the fishing for other fish, notably for perch, and I think
it would be an excellent thing if the different preserva-
tion societies would set apart a few days each year for
systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other
fish, and selling those retained. What is the good to
anglers of catching thousands of small bream ? Are
not a score over a pound weight each better than ten-
score fingerlings ? Judicious thinning out, under proper
supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on the
size of the fish generally.
There are several preservation societies, of which the
Yare Preservation Society is the chief. Mr. C. J.
Greene, of London Street, Norwich, Fishing Tackle
Maker, is the honorary secretary. The objects of these
societies are to abolish netting and poaching, and protect
the river for fair angling. The subscriptions are nominal
(5s.), and yet they are supported entirely by local efforts.
As a rule, none of the anglers from London and other
distant parts, who come down to Norfolk and have the
best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which
are instrumental in furnishing them with sport. This
is exceedingly shabby of visitors here, and I trust that
those who have been induced to visit the Broads
through my writings will at least make the small return
to Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to
make these waters the best public fishing places in the
kingdom.
FISHING GENERALLY. 155
There are a few professional fishermen to be hired
by the angler. "Professor" Day, of Kichmond Hill,
Norwich, is one of the best, and knows every inch of
water, and there are some good men at Oulton.
Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet
with the excellent sport which falls to the lot of the
local anglers, and I remember Mr. Cholmondeley Fennel
being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our
waters. I lately interviewed a local gentleman who is
well known as a successful fisherman, and I append my
questions and his remarks thereon, which will afford
some valuable information.
ROACH.
1. Where found at different periods of the year ?
Throughout the summer the entire length of our
local streams where the water is fresh and not salt or
brackish ; the finest fish and greatest number between,
Cantle^ and Coldham Hall, on the Yare ; large numbers
also in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter
they appear generally to retire to the deep waters, and
are sometimes found in good quantity about Thorpe
Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots1
on the Bure and other waters.
2. Best periods to fish for them ?
July to October, but good catches may often be had
in November, and during the winter and early spring
months by any expert angler who doesn't mind the cold.
156 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOL1L
3. What time of day at dijjerent seasons ?
As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle
of the day ; this is especially the case in bright warm
weather. On dull, " close " days, however, they will
often bite freely throughout the day. The morning up
to about 11.30, and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are un-
doubtedly the best times to fish during summer, and in
winter almost any time up to sunset.
4. What depth of water ?
As a rale, the best fish are found during summer in
the deepest water, and should not be angled for on the
Yare at a less depth than nine or ten feet. On the Bure
the deepest spots that can be found. In March or April
shallower waters should be tried.
5. How affected by the tide?
Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on
the up tide, and at other times on the ebb. I, however,
suspect that certain local formations of the river bed,
have much to do with this.
6. What ground-bait?
The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread,
<and boiled wheat, in fair proportions, made up into firm
balls about the size of an orange. One of these thrown
in occasionally, and now and then a few grains of boiled
wheat will generally suffice to keep a good quantity of
fish about your boat.
7. Are places ever baited beforehand?
Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasion-
ally by some, but have never practised it myself.
FIS1IJLNG GENERALLY. 157
S. What baits are most successful?
During summer the most successful baits are well-
boiled wheat and paste, red or white, in such clear
waters as the Waveney and the upper reaches of Bure,
&c. White paste is best on the Yare, the red always
kills the best iish. In autumn, gentles, and later on
brandlings and gentles, or better still, small red worms,
"blood." There are many other baits used with good
success occasionally, but these are by far the most
reliable.
9. What kind of rod ?
For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare,
the rod should be light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in
length. For running tackle a shorter rod will do, and
for this I prefer one of hickory. Should recommend
cane for the longer kind.
10. Number of hook ?
When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other
times Nos. 10 or 12. Those known amongst anglers as |
" Crystal," are excellent for roach fishing.
11. h running tackle advisable ?
Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep,
strong waters as those between Coldham Hah1 and
lieedham. For the slower waters of the Bure and the
upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that run-
ning tackle has any advantages worth naming.
12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line ?
For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of
158 BIVEBS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
gut to my line ; six feet moderately stout and three feet
fine drawn. Line, a fine braided silk. A light, well-
shotted line of this kind has many advantages, especially
on a windy day.
13. What kind of float ?
Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large
pelican or swan quill, for slower and shallower waters
a much smaller one.
14. Is line heavily shotted ?
For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20
medium-sized shot. These are placed on a space of
about a foot, the bottom one not nearer than about three
feet from the hook, with just one shot on the gut
attached to hook. This arrangement ensures the bait
being carried swiftly to the bottom and kept steady,
very important items in roach fishing.
15. Is float best attached by lower end only ?
Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the
" Norwich School" for many years past is decidedly the
best, and admits of much more neatness and accuracy
in striking a fish than when the float is attached by
upper end as well as lower.
16. Do you strike at first dip ?
When good fish are on the feed, the float is first
affected by a slight tremulous movement, and almost
immediately settles down, generally in a slanting direc-
tion ; the moment to strike is just as the settling down
FISHING GENERALLY. 159
commences. This, however, requires n large amount of
practice and some keen observation before an angler
becomes expert. Sudden perky bites indicate small fish,
and these are often the most difficult to catch.
17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain,
thick water, <fr., and is there any rule on this head ?
Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most
favourable, especially when the water is "grey" or thick, '
and have had capital sport with a moderate east wind,
but never when it has blown strongly from that quarter,
and the old maxim
'« When the wind blows from the east
The fish bite the least,
When the wind's from the west
The fish bite the best,"
contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may un-
doubtedly be taken in clear water and in good quantity,
but running tackle and fine, and extreme caution are
necessary.
7<9. Do yon find that movement, in the boat, noise, or
loud tallrinrj frightens the fish?
Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear
to intimidate the fish, but knocking or any disturbance
which communicates a vibration to the water is decidedly
objectionable, especially in shallower streams, and often
causes a great interruption to the fishing. Have found
a pair of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear
in a boat when fishing, for this reason.
160 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
19. Name some of the best catches you have made or
know of.
I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates ;
but have had some fine catches within the past five or
six years, principally on the Yare. On one occasion, at
Buckenham, with a friend, six stone* between 2.30 and
7 p.m. ; another time upwards of five stone in about the
same space of time, and numerous catches of from two
to four stone in an afternoon's fishing ; also more than
a bushel by measure one afternoon with a friend fishing
in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in the
first week of September, 1879.
20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange
anglers which is so noticeable ?
Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable
for fishing in our waters, and also of the modus operandi,
one of the chief reasons being a want of knowledge of
the right depth at which to fish, which could easily
be known by simply "plumbing" the depth. Byway
of instance, I have on several occasions found strangers
fishing on the Yare in 12 or 14 feet of water, with their
baits only about four or five feet below the surface, and
at the same time wondering that anglers close by should
be catching plenty of fish when they could get none.
Baits, too, are doubtless used which, although very good
for some streams or waters, are of very little use with us.
* Stone = 14 Iba,
FISHING GENERALLY. 1C1
N.B. — " When the wind blows strong and the waves
roll high," it is often very difficult to fish or even to
detect a bite. This is very tantalising, and not infre-
quently happens through a shift in the wind when you A
are in a capital *' swim." The remedy for this is to put V fy
on a nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with I
which excellent sport may sometimes be had when it
would be impossible to fish in any other way.
In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just
touching the bottom. A good plan adopted by some is
to fish with two hooks, the bottom one dragging on the
bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches
clear of the bottom. This is an advantage in fast
streams, as it retards the onward motion of the float,
the bait is more easily taken, and the swims are not
passed so rapidly.
BKEAM.
1. Where found at different periods of the year /
During summer, on the Yare, principally between
Langley Dyke and Eeedham ; in winter often found in
good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe Broad and about
Carrow and Trowse Hythe. On the Bure they appear
to congregate in the deep waters of the Broads in winter,
and make their appearance about the end of May and
through the summer on the river.
2. Best periods to fish for them.
July and August.
1G2 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
3. What time of day at different seasons ?
Good catches of bream are often had in early morn-
ing. I have, on the other hand, had capital sport by
moonlight.
For further notes, see answer to same question on
"Roach."
4. What depth of water ?
The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule,
the best ; but I have caught large quantities of fine
bream at Wroxham, on the Bure, in not more than four
feet and a half of water.
5. How affected by the tide ?
Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about
half an hour before high water to half an hour after.
For further notes, see " Roach."
6. What ground-bait?
Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made
up into balls, chopped worms, boiled rice. This latter
and grains I have found very killing on the Bure.
I * v. 7. Are places ever baited beforehand ?
Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of
/ doing so. This mode is very telling on Broads and
other still waters.
8. What baits are most successful ?
For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and
other deep swift waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end
of a lobworm on the hook, is a capital bait. Generally
epeakuig, however, I have found " brandlings" the most
PISHING GENERALLY. 103
, and have found a brandling with a gentle placed
on the point of the hook will sometimes be taken readily
Li^when no other bait would be touched. Red paste is
often very killing on the Bure.
9. What kind of rod ?
Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long,
with a good stout top joint, on the Yare. Shorter will
do on the Bure.
10. Number of hwh.
The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks
This was, however, in comparatively shallow water,
Should say that No. 7 or 8 would be very good sizes for
bream fishing generally.
11. Is running taclde advisable?
See "Roach."
12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line /
See "Roach."
13. What kind of float?
See "Roach."
14. Is line heavily shotted ?
In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but
having the bulk of shot placed nearer the hook, it being
necessary that the bait should " drag " the bottom.
15. Is float best attached by lower end only ?
As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the
roach, this is quite immaterial. I prefer float attached
top and bottom.
1G4 RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
16. Do you strike at first dip?
A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing
motion for a few seconds, he then runs off with it, and
slides it down slantingly ; strike as he runs off with the
bait or the float is about to disappear, and you are sure
of him.
17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain,
thick water, d*c., and is there any rule on this head?
Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the
waters are very clear. See " Roach."
18. Is legering successfully practised for large bream, and
what is the best modus operandi ?
In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somer-
leyton, &c. — no other mode of fishing for bream can be
practised with any success worth naming — ledgers for
attaching to line may be purchased at any tackle shop
at Is. each, and the modus operandi is very simple, and
by no means scientific. The rod requires to be very
strong and of fair length, and three or four rods may be
used from one boat at the same time.
10. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or
loud talking frightens the fish?
Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking
in the boat, which invariably sends them off for an in-
definite period, and should therefore be most carefully
avoided.
20. Name some of the best catclies you have made or
known oft
YACHTING.
1G5
About ten years ago, had, in company with a friend,
a catch of 17 stone in one day on Wroxham Broad, and
with only one rod each. Have heard of many catches
from time to time of from 4 to 10 or 12 stone, but am
unable now to give names or dates.
21. What is the reason of the non-success of strange
anglers which is so noticeable ?
See " Koach."
N.B. In fishing for bream, the bait should always
drag on the bottom.
YACHTING.
IT will have been gathered from the foregoing pages
that the Kivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk
present exceptional facilities for small -boat sailing and
smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any other
part of England. There are two yachting clubs, the
Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing
Club, the latter a very flourishing institution, furnishing
four or five regattas in the year for small 4-ton yachts
and open boats.
There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but,
owing to the frequent changes of ownership, it is not
practicable to give a list of those who have boats for
hire, which would be of any use. Enquiry at the inns
at Oulton, and advertisements in the Yarmouth and
1G6 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Norwich papers will generally elicit suitable answers.
Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to have a yacht to let.
Open sailing -boats with awnings to sleep under, and
small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained
of Loynes, Wroxham ; and comfortable craft they are.
The awnings of the small boats are waterproof, and most
ingeniously constructed, and the boats can be rowed or
sailed anywhere. Loynes may be trusted to provide
everything that is necessary for comfort, and his yachts
and boats are largely patronized. They are all rigged
Una fashion, with one sail, and are very easily man-
aged. Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at the
riverside, at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.
As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is
carried on by means of sailing craft of from 20 to 70
tons burthen, called wherries. These are long, shallow,
graceful vessels, with an enormous mast, supporting one
enormous sail. The sail is spread by a long gaff, but
there is no boom. There is only one halyard, and the
sail is hoisted by means of a winch at the foot of the
mast. There is no rigging to the mast except the fore-
stay, which is m:iinly of use for lowering the mast, the
latter being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a
half of lead on ita heel, so that it is raised as easily as it
is lowered. These wherries sail very fast, very close to
the wind, and are often managed by one man. Yachts
built on the wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and
easily managed.
YACHTING. 1G7
Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the
hatches are raised a plank or two higher to give greater
head-room, the clean-swept hold is divided into several
rooms, and a capital floating house is extemporized.
There is now quite a fleet of permanently- fitted
pleasure wherries on the rivers, which have ample accom-
modation for a party or family, and are to be hired at
from 8 to 15 guineas a week.
A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is
to give a wherryrnan a small sum to take you with him
when he makes a passage. There are always numbers
of wherries leaving Norwich and Yarmouth, and if you
hail the one you fancy, you will be readily taken on
board. Thus you might sail from Norwich to Yarmouth
one day, up to Wroxham the next, back to Yarmouth
and up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a
day and refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either
Yarmouth or Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves
of this suggestion.
The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament,
but pleasure yachts are exempt from tolls, except, of
course, at locks and Haddiscoe lift bridge.
The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the
wherries and local yachts, and necessarily so ; but it is a
point of honour not to harass business wherries if it can
be avoided, as these are sailed for a livelihood, while
yachtsmen sail for pleasure. Therefore, if there is a
doubt, give the wherry the benefit of it
1G8 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,
It is also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry's
bows too closely, as they would soon smash up a yacht
If you are civil to a wherryman he will be most civil to
you, and don't slang him if he doesn't at once give way
for you to pass him.
The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs
simply epitomise the custom and practice on the rivers,
and must be adhered to :
" That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any
river or broad, and the yacht to leeward be likely to run
aground or foul any bottom or bank, or not be able to
stay without the windward yacht running foul of her,
the windward yacht must be put about upon being hailed
by the member of the Club who may be in charge of the
leeward yacht ; the yacht to leeward must also go about
at the same time as the yacht she hails.
" That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port
tack must give way to the yacht on the starboard tack,
and in case of collision, the owner of the vessel on the
port tack shall be liable to pay all damages that may
occur, and forfeit all claim to the prize.
" That any yacht bearing away or altering her course
to windward or leeward, provided there is no obstruction
to prevent her keeping her course, thereby compelling
another vessel to go out of her course, shall forfeit all
claim to the prize. In running before the wind, the
side the leading vessel carries her main boom is to be
considered the lee side,
YACHTING. 1C9
" A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward
or leeward ; and when near the shore or shallow water,
or when rounding any mark, flag, or buoy, if the bowsprit
of the yacht astern overlap any portion of the hull of the
yacht ahead, the latter must immediately give way and
allow the former to pass between her and such shore,
shallow water, mark, flag, or buoy; and should any
yacht not give way or compel another to touch the
ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so
compelling her shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her
owner shall pay all damage that may occur, and the
yacht so compelled to touch such mark, flag, or buoy
shall not in this case suffer any penalty for such contact
" It is an established rule, and should be most strictly
attended to by all yachtsmen, that where two vessels
have to cross each other on opposite tacks, the one on
the starboard tack must invariably keep her wind, and
the one on the port tack must keep away and pass to
leeward, or tack short when the smallest doubt exists of
her not being able to weather the other. All expenses
of damage incurred by vessels on opposite tacks running
on board each other, fall upon the one on the port tack ;
but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away
with the intention of passing to leeward, and they have
come in contact, the expenses of damage fall upon her
on the starboard tack, because by her keeping away she
may have prevented the other passing to leeward.
When a vessel on the starboard tack sees another
170 RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
attempting to weather her, when it does not seem pos-
sible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm
down, for the Jess way vessels have when they come in
contact, the less damage they will sustain. Should both
vessels put their helms up and run on board each other,
the most fatal consequences may arise, and therefore
nothing should induce the vessel on the starboard tack
to keep away. All vessels going free must give way to
those on a wind."
SHOOTING AND SKATING.
This district is well worth a visit in the winter timo,
for the wild-fowl shooting on the tidal portions of the
rivers is free (of course you must not trespass on the
marshes for shooting purposes, as the shooting along
them is strictly preserved). The usual plan is to row-
along the river while your dogs work through the reeds
on the bank inside the river wall, or embankment, which
generally runs parallel with the rivers on each side.
Flight shooting is also successfully pursued, but of course
you must obtain information as to the best spots in the
line of flight. Oulton Broad is free, but is much shot
over. Breydon Water is a capital fowling-ground in
hard winters. It is the "happy hunting ground" of
Yarmouth gunners. An easily managed sailing-boat of
light draught is useful for this kind of work.
FAUNA OF THE BROADS. 171
Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable. Being
so shallow, the Broads are soon frozen, and the skating
is then simply superb. Fancy Hickling, a lake of 400
acres, sate all over, with the ice as clear and hard as
glass, and plenty of " elbow-room " for ice-boats as well as
skaters.
It would be worth while for skating parties to come
down for a few days at a time while the frosts last, in-
stead of struggling amid the crowds which beset London
waters.
FAUNA OF THE BEOADS.
I CANNOT do more than cursorily mention the abun-
dant life which teems amid the Broads. I would refer
the reader, for a full account of the life of the Broads
thirty years ago and now, to that charming book, worthy
to be ranked with " The Complete Angler," and " The
Natural History of Selborne," " Observations on the
Fauna of Norfolk, and more particularly on the District
of the Broads," by the Rev. Eichard Lubbock, M.A.,
a new edition of which, with suitable notes by Mr.
Thomas Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs.
Jarrold and Sons, London and Norwich. This book, to-
gether with Stevenson's "Birds of Norfolk," are neces-
sary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads.
For a fuller general descriptive account of the district, I
may also refer the reader to my own larger book,
14 Norfolk Broads and Eivers," published by Blackwood.
172 BIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
Of course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the
great-crested grebe, the coot and water-hen are constantly
to be seen. Dabchicks abound in places. I have seen
a score together in some open water, at Surlingham,
during a frost. Kingfishers are seen occasionally ; water-
ouzels never in the navigable waters. Wild ducks,
widgeon, teal, and other ducks, gulls, terns, and waders
of many species, hawks, kestrels, marsh harriers, and hen
harriers are occasionally met with, particularly about
Bickling. Owls, reed wrens, reed buntings, and bearded
tits (I know a colony of the latter), and other birds occur
to me as I write, but detailed lists of the Norfolk species
will be found in the " Transactions of the Norfolk and
Norwich Naturalists' Society " of past years. It is suffi-
cient to say that not only in the department of orni-
thology, but of entomology and botany, the specialist will
find abundant work. During the days and nights I have
spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and
particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I
have watched the habits of certain rare species, and dis-
covered their haunts, which I would not reveal for
anything, for to do so would be to expose them to the
ravages of collectors. I am not a collector myself, nor
have I the remotest pretension to science, but I am an
enthusiastic student of what I may call the " home-life "
of birds and animals. Therefore I cannot give accurate
scientific information, in the shape of lists of Broad
species without borrowing from the labours of others,
FAUNA OF THE BROADS. 178
and the clothing the dry bones with flesh would require
more space than a guide-book will allow. But let a man
lie in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery
dawn, and watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding
their young ones with small fish, and teaching them to
dive and catch fish also, all so close that you might at
times touch the birds with a fishing-rod, and he will
partly understand what to me is the charm of Natural
History. And for the romance of it there is no place
like the reed- surrounded Broad and its marshy borders.
Jarrold # Soil*, Printer*, Norwich.
JAKROLDS'
PICTURESQUE VIEWS
THE CATHEDRALCTTYOP NORWICH.
THE SERIES INCLUDES VIEWS OF
Somerleyton Norbhrepps
Fritton Felbrigg
Felixstowe Overstrand
Yarmouth Runton
Southwold Sherringham, &c.
Cromer
Norwich
Thorpe-mxt-Norwlch
Lowe s bolt
Oulton
OPALINE VIEWS,
Post Free for 10£d. USUAL PRICE, I/
Scrap Views, 6d. each, or by Post, 7d.
(Size, 5^by4£.)
3LI5T OF YI
NORWICH
No.
500
Name.
Norwich Cathedral (N.E.)
Norwich Cathedral (N.E.)
Norwich Cathedral (S.E.)
Norwich Cathedral (S.E.)
Norwich Cathedral (W. Front)
Norwich Cathedral (E.)
Interior Norwich Cathedral,
Choir (W.)
Interior Norwich Cathedral,
Nave (W).
Interior Norwich Cathedral,
Nave(E.)
Cattle Market
London Street
No.
5"
512
Southwold
High Street
Market Place
Gun Hill
East Cliff
Centre Cliff
From Lighthouse
North Cliff
South Cliff
Coast-Guard Station
Name.
Market and Guildhall
Agricultural Hall
Castle Gardens
Interior of St. Peter's Church
Font, St. Peter's Church
Erpingham Gateway
Ethelbert Gateway
Chapel- Field Gardens
Pull's Ferry
Pull's Ferry
Thorpe
Thorps Old Cut
Norwich Cathedril (N.E.)
Castle and Shirehall
SOUTHWOLD.
760 South Green
76 1 Beach
762 Interior St. Edmund's Church
763 Interior St. Edmund's Church
California
Walberswick Ruins
Covehithe
Dunwich Ruins
Ruins, Bishop's Palace
501
502
503
505
506
507
503
5^9
750
752
753
754
755
753
7Sl
758
759
JARROLD AND SONS, ART PUBLISHERS,
3, Paternoster Buildings, London. London & Exchange Streets, Norwich.
182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH.
THE LIUKARY, CKOMER.
5^7
520
522
523
76 *
765
766
767
768
BKANCHES :
OF
(Continued.)
LOWESTOFT.
No, Name. No. Name.
650 St. Margaret's Church
664 The Park
6^t Lowestoft, from Pier
6^5 The Arboretum
652 Lowestoft Pier
666 Ravine Bridge
653 Lowestoft, from Pier
667 High Light
654 Harbour
6t>8 Lighthouse
655 The Bridge
669 Lowestoft, from Kirkley
656 Harbour
670 The Common
657 Harbour
671 Corton House
658 Old Fish Wharf
672 Corton Grounds
659 New Herring Market
673 Corton
660 Marine Parade
674 Oulton
66 1 Royal Hotel
675 Somerleyton Hall
662 Wellington Pier
676 Somerleyton Park
663 Pier Terrace, &c.
677 Fritton
YARMOUTH.
700 Yarmouth, from Sands
715 Approach, S.Nicholas1 Church
701 Market Place
716 St. Nicholas' Church
702 Town Hall and Harbour
717 St. Nicholas' Church, Reredos
703 Town Hall
718 St. Nicholas' Church, Pulpit
704 Nelson Monument
719 Interior St. Nicholas* Church
705 The Drive
720 North Quay and Harbour
706 The Drive (S.)
721 Wellington Pier
707 The Harbour
722 Britannia Pier
708 The Harbour, Mouth
723 Yarmouth Roads
709 The Quay
724 Yarmouth, on Beach
710 The Quay
72:5 Yarmouth Beach
711 The jetty
726 Yarmouth Beach
712 Victoria Hotel
727 Sands
713 Royal Aquarium
728 The Park
714 Toll-House
729 Victoria Hotel
C R O M E R .
800 Cromer, from Sands
813 Lighthouse
801 Kast Cliff
814 Church Street
802 The Sands
815 Cromer Hall
803 Lime Kilns
816 Cromer Hall
804 Golf Grounds
817 Cromer Hall
805 The Jetty
818 Northrepps Cottage
806 Cromer
819 Northrepps Avenue
807 Jetty Street
8ao Overstrand Ruins
808 West Cliff
821 Felbrigg Hall
809 Cromer Cliff
822 Roman Encampment, Runton
8 10 St. Margaret's Terrace
823 Beeston Priory
811- The Jetty
824 [ham
812 Cromer Church
825 Pretty Corner, near Sherring-
FELIXSTOWE.
850 Felixstowe, Looking West
856 Felixstowe
851 The Cliff
857 The Lodge
852 View, from Bath Hotel
858 Bath Hotel
853 Cambridge Road
859 Bath Hotel
854 Bent Hill
860 Horn's Farm
855 Old Felixstowe Church
86 1 The Lodge
JARROLD AND SONS, ART PUBLISHERS,
3, Paternoster Buildings, London. London & Exchange Streets, Norwich.
RPA -• f iq2' KlNG STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH.
BRANCHES, j ^ LlliRARV, CROMER.
PAYNE JENNINGS'
Artistic Photographs
OF THE
RIVERS & BROADS
©f fjcrrfolk nnb Suffolk,
AS SEEN IN THE
Great Casfcrn 3{ailinay Carriages.
JARROLD & SONS have been appointed SOLE WHOLES iLE
AGENTS for these Exquisite Examples of Photography, which
may be inspected at their Establishments; or Single Copies Fosf
Free on Receipt of 13 Stamps.
Size of Photographs, 8| by 6\ in.
1 Wroxham Broad
2 Yachts at Wroxham Bridge
(Early Morning)
3 Yacht leaving Wroxham Broad
4 Old Boat House, Wroxham
Broad
5 Dyke near Wroxham Broad
6 Wroxham BrHge
7 Wroxham Bridge Broad
8 An Eel Fisher's Hut, on the Bure
9 Dyke at Wroxham
10 An Eel Fisher, entrance to
Hoveton Great Broad
i r Church of Hoveton St. John
12 On the Bure
13 Hoveton and Salhouse Broads
14 On the Bure (Cattle at Mid-day
15 Salhouse Dyke
1 6 Boat H ouse near Salhouse Dyke
17 Dyke at Salhouse Great Broad
1 8 Salhouse Little Broad
19 Girling's Farm
20 Entrance to Salhouse Great
Broad
21 Horning Ferry
22 Horning Ferry, with Sailing
Wherry
23 Horning Village
24 Horning, Wherry unloading
25 Horning Village
26 Drainage Mill, River Thurne
27 Ranworth Broad
JARROLD & SONS, ART PUBLISHERS,
3, Paternoster Buildings, London, London & Exchange Streets, Norwich.
BRANCHES
182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH.
THE LIBRARY, CROMER.
LIST OP VIEWS— (Continued).
28
29
30
3i
32
33
34
P
37
33
39
40
4i
42
43
44-
4S
46
47
48
49
5°
Si
52
S3
54
55
56
57
58
k9
60
61
62
63
Ranworth Broid, Old Cottage
Ranworth Staithe
Hut on Ranworth Broad
CotUge at Ranworth Broad
Village at Ranworth Broid
South Walsrum, Dyke at
(Wherry unloading)
South Walsham Dyke, Cottage
at
St. Benet's Abbey (with Cattle)
St. Benet's Abbey (near View)
Irstead Church (on the Ant)
Wherries Meeting (on the Ant)
Barton Broad
Barton Broad
Gay's Staithe, Barton Broad
Sta'lham
Stalham. Dyke at
Hickling Broad (Stormy
Weather)
Hickling Staithe
Ormesby Broad
Ormesby Rroad, Eel's Foot Inn
Ormesby Broad, Ruins on
Ormesby Broad
Ormesbv Broad (Wild Duck)
Filby Broad
Rollesby Broad
Filby Broad ( Moonlight)
Eel Net, Ormesby Broad
Acle Bridge
Acle Bridge, Wherry leaving
Oulton Broad
Oulton Broad
Oulton Broad
Oulton Broad
On The Waveney
Lowestoft Harbour
Lowestoft Harbour (Yachts
leaving for the Broads)
64 Beccles, on the Waveney
65 Beccles Church
66 Beccles, on the Waveney
67 Fritton Duck Decoy
68 Fritton Lake
69 At Fritton Decoy
70 Fritton Lake
71 Fritton Church
72 Cantley, on theYare
73 Cantley, on the Yare
74 Cantley, Fishing at
75 Coldham Hall, on the Yare
76 Near Surlingham, on the Yare
77 At Coldham Hall, on the Yare
78 Dyke at Coltishall
79 Coltishall Church
80 Horstead Mill
8 r Horstead Church
82 Belaugh, on the Bure
83 Thorpe Gardens, Norwich
84 At Whitlingham, on the Yare
85 Whitlingham Ruined Church
86 A Norfolk Wherry
87 An Artist's Boat
88 Artists at Work
89 A Norfolk Wherry (Supper
Time)
90 A Norfolk Wherry (After
Dinner)
91 On Horsey Mere
92 At Womack Broad
93 Dyke at Womack Broad
94 Hoveton Great Rroad
95 Hoveton Great Rroad, Hykeat
96 Hoveton Great Broad, Dyke at
97 Dyke at Martham Broad
98 At Martham Broad
99 Wherries leaving Yarmouth for
the Broads
coo Home from the Broads
Any of the above Beautiful Photographs may be had stparately at
ONE SHILLING EACH. The Complete Set of 100 Views EUgantly
Bound in One Volume for £4 4s.
JARROLD & SONS, ART PUBLISHERS,
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R_ .„.,„_ . ( 182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH.
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LONDON : JARROLD & SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, E.G.;
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Selections from Jarrold & Sons' Publications,
JARROLDS' MAPS TO THE EASTERN
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COUNTY MAPS. STREET MAPS.
Norfolk,
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Essex,
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Ipswich,
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Jarrolds' Panoramic Views, Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft,
andCromer. Price is., paper covers; cloih, is. 6d. ; mounted
on rollers, and varnished, 73. 6d.
"Norfolk Chronicle" says — "Will undoubtedly prove valuable not only to
touri-ts, but to persons living in the immediate locality."
"Yarmouth and Gorleston Times " says— " Accurately-drafted, well printed,
ingenious, and well drawn."
"Eastern Daily Press "says — "No other map of the locality is at all com-
parable to it. The work is a credit to the city."
Jarrolds' Sixpenny Road Maps for Cyclists. East
Coast, from Caister to Dunwich. Cromer, including Plakeney,
Holt, Melton Constable, Wood Bailing, Bhckling, Aylsham,
North Walsham, H^ppisburgh.
May also be had cloth covers, One Shilling.
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Jarrolds' Map of Norfolk and Suffolk, Prepared from
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A very useful Map for County Councillors. Paper covers, I/- ;
cloth case, 1/6 ; canvas and cloth case, 2/6; mounted on
roller and varnished, 5/-.
LONDON : JARROLD & SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, E.C. ;
AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ETC.
Selections from Jarrolfl & Sons' Dew Booh, &c,
TOPOGRAPHY.
Cromer, Past and Present, By WALTER RYE. With
numerous Illustrations. Containing a description of the Buried
City of Shipden, The Old Squires, The Old Traders, The
Fisheries, "Cromer Crabs." The Churches, The People, Dis-
covery of the Watering Places, etc. Large paper copies, Two
Guineas, nett ; small paper edition, One Guinea, nett. (Will
shortly be increased in price).
The entire profits of this publication will be given to the Cromer Church
Restoration Fund.
"Daily Telegraph" says — "Lovers of that beautiful little Norfolk sea-coast
town of Cromer will be gla'l to !• arn that all that can be known of its history, its
traditions, it* past and present, its pe -pie and their ways, its old manors and churches,
tU bu-ied c-ty of Shipden, it« monuments and ancient records, has been carefully
c«U«cted by an able writer, who has a true love of the place."
The Highways and Byeways of Old Norwich,
A descriptive ramble through Conisford, the New Burgh, West-
wick, Northwic, and Tokethorpe Wymer. the Liberty of the
Prior, and Down the Wensum. With Notes of Old Houses,
their Occupants, and Street Scenes in Olden Times. By MARK
KNIGHTS. With 50 full -page Illustrations. Demy 4to, 31/6 nett.
"Athenaeum" says— " Remarkably well got up and printed, and profusely and
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" East Anglian Times" says— "A work which cannot fail to take high and per-
manent rank among the local historical and antiquarian productions of our time."
Uniform with " The Highways and Byeways of Old Norwich."
In and about Ancient Ipswich, By DR. J. E. TAYLOR,
F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., Editor of ''Science Gossip." With 50
full-page Illustrations. Demy 4to, 25/- nett.
" East Anglian Daily Times " says—" Bacon, Clyde Clarke, and Wodderspoon
are pred«c«s*ors in the he'd of research, to whom Dr. Taylor owes much ; but nona
of the>c admirable antiquaries have made the dry bones live, have called the past
b«fore us so vividly, as the author of the volume ju<t before u<. The proofs, it may
be added, were revised by one of the most careful of living antiquaries."
The Church Bells of Suffolk, By JOHN JAMES RAVEN,
D.D., of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. A limited edition of
500 copies only published to subscribers at i5/-. The few copies
still remaining are offered at 2o/-.
"East Anglian Daily Times" says— "Wonderfully ab'prbirg tale which Mr.
Ra< en has here unfolded with such loving pains and appreciation, with rare scl o'aily
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to the letterpress, and as a contribution to the topographicat lite'ature of East Anglia,
its issue may be regarded as an eve.it of general iutere t to the pui>i c.'1
LONDON; JARROLD & SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, E.G.
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GRACE STEBBING'S NEW BOOKS.
A Will made in Haste; or Hal Baumgarten's Adventures in
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" Freeman '' says — " Grace Stabbing has already secured for herself a wide circle
of sympathizing readers by her works, the present volume will not lessen that circle."
"Echo" says — "A capital story of adventure in Texas, with plenty of incident
and a high moral tone, well suited as a gift book for boys. The illustrations by Paul
Hardy ate admirable, and of a far higher order than are usually found in books of
this class."
Wild Kathleen ; or, "Both Sides of the Channel." Cr. 8vo, 3/-.
"East Anglian Daily Times" says — "As the title implies, the heroine is a
typical Iri.-h gentlewoman, and stirring scenes in her life, laid alternately in Wales
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That Bother Of a Boy. 35 H1Us. by Paul Hardy. Cr. 8vo, 3/6.
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Sayings and Doings in Fairyland; or, Old Friends with
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her text such familiar nursery rhymes as ' Hush-a-bye Baby,' ' Baa, Baa, Black
Sheep,' ' Old Kin^ Cole,' &c., arid weaving out of them very pretty and iuteresiing
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&c. Cr. 8vo, 3/6.
11 St. Stephen's Review " says — " An enchanting work, full of the diablr rie of t
pack of boys and girls, who are Dimply f>ends in human guise, distressing everybody
with their mischief-loving antics. The story runs oil with happy, blithesome tread to
the end, which is reached all too soon."
Dudley, BY CURTIS YORKE. Cr. 8vo, 3/6.
" Whitehall Review " says — " It is some time since such a fresh, pleasant book
has come under o.*r notice."
"Vanity Fair" says — "The book is published in one volume, but it is better
worth reading, and has more in it than the majority of three- volume novels."
That Little Girl, BY CURTIS YORKK. 3rd Edition. Cr. 8vo.
(Sandringham Library). 2/6.
" Spectator" says— "The plot is very good. The tone of the story is throughout
evers ttin'g that we could wi<h."
"Ladies' Pictorial" says — "Written in a style which is bright, fresh, and
original, deserves to be exceedingly popular."
The Brown Portmanteau, BY CURTIS YORKE. Cr. 8vo.
(Sandringham Library). 2/6.
" Literary World " says—" The stories are all interesting, and the volume is
sure of a welcome."
"Morning Post" says — "The writ'-r is natural, realistic, and entertaining."
Moonlight by the Shannon Shore, BY MAJOR NORRIS
PAUL. Cr. 8vo, 3/6.
"Saturday Review" says — " Major Paul has written in a simple style a capital
book. All good Knglishm-n and Irishmen may add thanks l-> M*jor 1'aul, and l«uy
his book for the encouragement of >outh in the practice of sound loyally and the
reading of good stones.'1
The Maid of London Bridge. A story of the time of Kett's
Rebellion. BY SOMERVILLE GIBNEY, Author of "The
Hovellers of Deal," " The New River," &c. Cr. 8vo, 3/6.
"Athenaeum " says — " ' The Maid of London Bridge ' is an historical story. The
author has clearly worked hard, and showed a praiseworthy intimacy both with the
geography of old London and with the particulars of Kelt's Rebellion and subsequent
disturbances."
" Bookseller" says— "The whole story is admirably told."
LONDON: JARROLD & SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, E.G.
AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ETC.
^elections from Jarrold & 3ons' New Books, &c,
SANDRINGHAM LIBRARY.
Crn. 8vo, 2s. 6d. each vol.
In issuing the above series, the Publishers aim at supplying the public with pood,
healthy literature, printed on fine paper in legible type, and handsomely bound, at a
moderate price. It will comprise works of Fiction, Travel, Biography, and other
books likely to interest the general reader.
That Little Girl. 3rd Edition.
By CURTIS YORKE, Author of "Dudley," "Hush," &c.
Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
The " Ladies' Pictorial" says— "Written in a style which is bright, fiesh, and
original, deserves to be exceedingly popular."
Geraldine's Husband.
By MARY MACLEOD, Author of "The Man at No. 20,'' &c.
_The " Atalanta " says — "A bright little volume, and contains some terse and
vigorous writing, . . . full of promif e. Its plot never flags.'1
The "Norwich Mercury " says-" A well-written story, with quite enough of
i- cident and mystery to keep the curi- sity of the reader active."
" British Weekly " says—" Wj itten in a pleasant style, . . thoroughly readable."
Sandringham, Past and Present,
By MRS. HERBERT JONES. With 12 Illustrations of the
Neighbourhood.
The " Times" says—" A graphic description, by pen and pencil, of the home of
the Prince and Princess of Wales ; it contains »n interesting account of a
reighbourhood which is naturally beautiful, and full of historical associations.
It is a book which enhances the repuution of the publishers."
The Curse of the Fevrills, 2nd Edition.
By SYLVIA PENN, Author of "Chronicles of Wittleton."
The "Publishers' Circular" says— "Sylvia Penn's work shows considerable
experience in literary effort, and is p e^santly written."
The "Belfast News Letter" says— " A story of great originality and power.'
Putt's Notions,
By MRS. CHARLES HERVEY. « For the most part true."
The Brown Portmanteau and other stories.
By CURTIS YORKE, Author of " That Little Girl,'' &c.
The " Morning Post " says— " Whether grave or gay, the author is a raconteur
whose imagination and vivacity are unfailing. Few, moreover, have in the
same degree the versatility whicn enables him to provoke peals of laughter m
' Our Expectations,' and move almost to tears by the sad pictures of ' In the
City's Heart ; ' the writer is natural, realistic, and entertainn g.''
The "Athenaeum" says— "Are told in a rapid and effective fashion, without
magic or comment, as stories of incident should be told.1'
LONDON: JARROLD & SONS, 3, Paternoster Buildings, E.G.;
AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ETC.
Selections from Jarrold and gons' Publications,
THE GILES'S TRIP SERIES.
MORE THAN 5OO,OOO HAVE BEEN SOLD.
Paper Covers, 6d. each. (Cloth, is.)
GileS'S Trip tO London. A Norfolk Labourer's First
Peep at the World.
Molly Miggs's Trip to the Seaside. A country
Woman's First Peep at the World.
Johnny and Jenny: their Wonderings and Wanderings
on their Way to Lowestoft.
Joh n ny 'S J aU nt. A Day in the Life of a Suffolk Couple.
Jack Jawkins's First Vote; and How he
Won Polly Pawkins,
The Cockneys in the Country. A Diverting story,
in which the tables are turned on the Londoners.
Daisy Dimple: Her Loves and Her Lovers.
Price Twopence each.
'Arry and 'Arriett at Yarmouth. A Taie about
Norfolk Dumplings.
Tom Todgers and his Christmas Party.
Giles on the Road to London,
Giles's First Adventures in London.
Giles and the Sights of London.
Joe Jenkins on the Great Crisis. A Labourer's
Views on Home Rule. id.
The Man who Wishes he had Not Married.
A Series of Thirteen Laughable Sketches. By FRED PEGRAM
Second Edition. Oblong Royal 410, is. By Post, is. 3d.
" Some clever sketches of the inevitable woes that await the unfortunate marrieO
man. All men who contemplate matrimony should invest a modest shilling in Mr.
Pcgram's book of sketches, and pause ere it be too late." — Pall Mall Gazette.
" It is a capital book for the drawing-room table, to beguile the waiting
moments of chance visitors. —
LONDON: JARROLD & SONS, 3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, E.C.
AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ETC.
YACHTS & BOATS FOE, HIRE.
PB£S9 Bros.,
NORTH
WALSHAM.
The WHERRY- YACHTS — "BERTHA,"
"ELSIE," "KATE," "DILIGENT," & " LUCY,"
are fitted with every convenience foe the enjoyment
of Parties wishing to visit the Rivera and Broads
of Norfolk.
They contain : Ladies' Cabin, 7 ft. long, 9 ft.
wide, and H ft. high, to sleep 3 or 4 Ladies, and are
fitted with washstand, looking-glass, lockers, Ac.
Oentlemen's Cabin, 14 ft. long, 9 ft. wide, and 6 ft.
high, to sleep 4 or 6 gentlemen ; this Cabin is used
in the day time for a Dining Saloon, and is fitted
with a table down the centre, and sitting space for
8 or 10. The cabins throughout are furnished with
blinds, soft cushions, plenty of rugs, and are lighted
at night by lamps ; they are divided by a gangway
leading from the deck, and a w. c. entered from
eitlier the fore or aft cabin, and private to each.
Two men are provided by the owners to look after
and sail the Yachts, and are under the direction of
the party hiring the boat ; they will attend to the
cooking, cleaning, and washing up, and to the wants
of the party on board.
When sailing, a seat is provided on the fore deck
of the Yacht, and a "jolly boat " accompanies each.
The Yachts are provided with all necessary glass,
crockery, table linen, knives, forks, spoons, &c., and
the men's cabin is fitted with a good cooking stove.
A piano can be provided.
The Yachts are so constructed as to be able to visit
ail the Norfolk and Suffolk Broads — Barton, Wrox-
ham, Hickling, South Walsham, Horsey Mere,
Mutford, Oulton, and all places of interest on the
Rivers. Parties are required to go on board
wherever the owners may desire, but can leave the
Yachts at any place convenient to themselves by
giving a week's notice.
J. JIMFSOXT, Ten-ton Cabin and 3-ton Cabin Centre Board Una-
WEOXHAM. ^'°- Open» Sailing, and Rowing Boats, by the Day,
Week, or Month, suitable for camping out on the
Rivers and Broads.
Yachting Parties supplied with every class of
Provisions to order.
C. CODXE,
WBOXHAM.
STKAM LAUNCHES for Day Trips on Norfolk
Broads, from Wroxham Station, G.E.R.
J. LOYNES,
C. WHITTAKER,
WKOXHAM.
CABIN YACHTS from 23 tons to 3 Tons,
fitted with every convenience for Cooking and
Sleeping. Full particulars on application. Row
Boats fitted with awnings, £2 to£l 10s. per week.
BOATS for hire.
C. BEAD,
WEOXHAM.
BOATS for hire.
091&4
B. COX.T.IXTS,
WROXHAM.
YACHTS and Boats for hire from 18 tons and
under. Yachts stored in dry Store Booms for
Winter months.
H. PRESS.
WROXHAM.
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
J. ALLEN,
COLTISHALL.
O. THOMPSON,
HORNIN Gr
YACHTS and Boats to let for the Season on
most reasonable terms; Gentlemen's Boats taken
charge of for the Winter in good dry Store Rooms.
All Classes of Boats built. Estimates given.
" THR JUBILEE," Una-rigged Cabin Boat; sleeping
accommodation for three. Terms on application.
"THE MERLIN," cutter-rigged Yacht; sleeping
accommodation for three, lerms. £3 10s. per
week, including man.
" THE BESSIE," lug sail open Boat, with awning.
Terms : dtj. 10s. per week, including man.
" THE FLORENCE," lug sail open Boat, with awning.
Terms : £1 10s. per week.
BOATS and Good Fishing to be had and oon-
veyances to meet any trains at Wroxham Station on
previous notice being given.
Patronised by the Marquis of Lome, the Duke of
Abercorn, Lord Claud Samilton, and others.
8. WALPOLE-
FILBY.
BOATS for hire.
O. APPLEGATE,
POTTER
HEIGH AM.
A WHERRY", Yachts and Boats for hire.
W. KJTIGHT,
POTTER
HEIGHAM.
A WHERRY, Tachts and Boats for hire.
J. HART & SOZT,
THORPE
VILLAGE,
NORWICH.
YACHTS AND BOATS suitable lor Cruising
about the Norfolk Waters. Yachts and Boats of
every description bought, sold, or exchanged.
"ISLAND QUEEN," 12 ton Cutter, drawing
only 3 ft. 3 in. of water, fitted with two Cabins, f ach.
7 ft. long. Ladies' Cabin has Patent Toilet Stsnul,
and good sleeping accommodation. The Cabins are
furnished with blinds, soft cushions, &c. They are
divided by a gangway leading from the deck,
and a w.c. entered from either fore or air-
Cabin, and private to each. A new Centre-board
Sailing Jolly Boat goes with the above. Also
competent man and boy. All nece.spa»-y Cooking
Utensils and Crockery provided on board.
The "AUGUSTA,'" 5 ton Cutt r, having good
Cabin, 8ft. long, nicehead rcorn,d'-aughtof water3 ft.
The "FROLIC," 2£ ton Cutter, Ca^in 6 ft.
long, with good head room, draught of water 3 ft.
The "FLORENCE, ' Una- Rig Boat, Cabin 6 ft.
long, good head room, draught of water 2 ft.
Numerous other Yachts of various tonnage kept
on hand.
J. H. & SON have excellent accommodation for
YACHTS and BOATS, also good dry Store Kooms.
Terms moderate.
2
Q. HAZELI., « THE GAMECOCK."— Cutter Big, Fast Sailer,
THORPE Sleeping Accornmodati on for three in Cabin, Jolly
ST A N DREW lioat Wltl1 ^ug Sa^ and ^entre iJoar(1> £4 i0s- Per
lerkTMUTnu ' week with mtiu.
JS Olt VV lull. „ THE THISTLE."— A New Yacht, fitted with
W.C., has a handsome Cabin 10 feet long, Jolly
Boar, &c., £4 4s. per week, with man ; without man,
£3 10s. per week.
" THE ROSE."— A Single-handed Yacht, Una-
Rig, Sleeping Accommodation for three, £2 10s
per week without attendance.
A. J. BERRY,
THORPE
ST. ANDREW,
NORWICH.
C. WRIGHT,
KINa STREET,
NORWICH.
W. J. ALDOUS,
" Steampacket " Inn,
KING STREET,
NORWICH.
J. BSOWN,
The Nook,
TRORPE,
NORWICH.
G. MOLLETT,
BEUNDALL
For Hire, by the Month, Week, or Day, the
Comfortable i'acht " G W E N N I E," 8 tons,
Copper-bottomed, Cabin 8 ft. 5 in. by 8 ft. 2 in.,
including Centre-board Jolly Boat, with Sail. Glass,
China, Cutlery, Culinary Utensils. &c.
"THE WATER LILY," 4-ton Una-Rig Yacht.
Good sleeping accommodation in Cabin for 6 persons.
Terms : £3 per week, with Man £4.
"THE GIPSY," Balance Lug or Cutter-Rig
Yacht, which has comfortable Bleeping room in
Cabin for 6 persons. £3 per week.
"THE EVENING STAR," Balance Lug or
Cutter- Rig Yacht, with sleeping accommodation
for 4 persons. £2 per week.
Open Jolly Boats, fitted with awnings, etc., from
30s. per week. A large assortment of Canoes,
Punts, and Rowing Boars of alJ descriptions to be
let by the Hour, Day, or Week
'•FAIRY QUEEN," 6-ton Cutter-rig Yacht*
with large Cabin newly fitted out with Lavatory*
etc., with sleeping accommodation for 6 or 8 per-
sons. Terms : — £4, with man £5 per week.
" MYSTERY," Balanced-lug or Cutter-rig
Yacht, with sleeping accommodation for 4 or 6
persons, £3 per week.
Open Jolly Boats with Centre Boai'd fitted with
Awning, etc., from £1 per week. All kinds of
Rowing Boats, Punts, Skiffs, Canoes, to be let by
the hour, day, week, or month.
"THE GKEBE" 8 ton Cutter, cabin lift.,
draught of water, 3 ft., fitted with all requisites
for cruising ; also centre board, jolly awniugs fitted
t o well. Competent man sent.
"THE NO BY," 4 ion Cutter, having comfort-
able cabin and good awning over well, fitted with
all crockery and cooking utensils.
"THE CONDOli," 2 ton Lug sail, length of
cabin 6 feet, good head room, &c. ; draught of water
2 ft., awning over well.
" THE RAVEN," 2 ton Lug sail, comfortable
cabin, good head room, and all requisites for
cruising ; fitted with awning over well j draught of
water 2* ft.
BUILDER of the fastest Centre-board Boats in
Norfolk and Suffolk. Yachts for Sale or Hire by
the Day or Week.
a
A
J. H. FAWCETT, YACHTS, WHERRIES, and BOATS for Hire-
BEUNDALL. Yachts, &c., housed.
G FISHER, BOATS to let for Pleasure or Fishing Parties,
COLDHAM HALL ^7 ^ie ^^ or Week- Excellent Sleeping accom-
modation for Yachting and Fishing Parties.
J. WILSON,
'Bed House" Inn,
GANTLET.
FISHING- TACKLE, Bait, Boats, &c., always in
readiness.
J. SULLEN, YACHTS from 5 to 30 Tons, always on hand, for
General Stores, Sale or Hire. Suitable for Sea, or Norfolk Rivera
OULTON BEOAD. and Broads. All kinds of Wherries and Cutter
Yachts from 5 to 16 tons for Hire.
Excellent Sleeping Accommodation for Yachting
Parties. Dinners, Luncheons, and Teas supplied at
the shortest notice.
Gentlemen's Yachts wintered on most reasonable
Terms.
Q. H. STEBBINGS, YACHTS, Sailing and Fishing Boats for Sale or
OULTON BEOAD. Hire. Yachts hauled out, repaired, painted, and
stored in good dry stores during Winter. Yachts
and Boats built on reasonable terms.
G. SMITH,
Waveney Hotel,
OULTON BEOAD.
YACHTS, Wherries, Sailing, and Fishing Boats
of every description, to Let. Yachts wintered, and
Stores carefully looked after. Terms moderate.
WM. WILSON,
OULTON BEOAD
YACHTS and Steam Launches for hire.
C. GOOCH,
OULTON BEOAD.
SAILING or Fishing Boats for hire.
R. BARBER,
OULTON BEOAD.
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
DAWBORN BROS.
OULTON BEOAD.
Y1CHTS and Boats for hire
R. GOOCH,
OULTON BEOAD.
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
H. JOHNSON,
OULTON BEOAD.
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
G. MASON,
OULTON BEOAD
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
G. KEMP,
OUL'l ON BEOAD
YACHTS and Boats for hire.
Mr. THACKER,
OULTON BEOAD.
BOATS for hir«.
4
Mr. BROWW, BOATS for hire.
OTJLTON BROAD.
R. KEMP, BOATS & YACHTS always on hand, for Sale or
OCTLTONBKOAD. Hire.
Yachts or Boats, bought, sold, or taken as part
payment for new.
R. KEMP has excellent accommodation for
Yachts lying afloat, up to 10 feet draught, or hauled
out in shed ; also good dry Store Rooms. Terms
very moderate.
Models and Drawings of Boats, Yachts, and Ships
made to order.
Hotel & other accommodation for visitors In the
neighbourhood of the Broads.
Proprietor.
WROXHAM Horse Shoe Tnn C. WHITTAKER,
„ King's Head Hotel J. JIMPSON.
„ Castle Hotel C. READ.
„ Apartments H. PRESS.
HORNING- , Miss BALLS.
„ „ MR?. COOK.
„ The New Inn J. PLATTED.
„ Ferry Hotel G. THOMPSON.
HOVETON King's Head Hotel J. SIMPSON.
RAN WORTH Three Malsters
STALHAM The Waterman's Arms W. KNIGHTS.
LITTLE ORMESBY... Eels Foot Inn
MARTHAJVI King's Arms Mrs. EDMONDS.
„ Apartments POSTMASTER.
POTTER HEIGHAM The Falgate Hotel W. G-KORGE.
„ Bower Farm (Apartments) Mr. HUBBARD.
„ The Limes Mr. HARTLEY.
„ The Bridge G-. APP LEGATE.
„ Cornhill G-. APPLEGATE, Junr,
„ Greenside R. APPLEGATE.
„ Corn Mill House MRS. CARMAN.
„ Cherry Gardens MRS. BENTLET.
FILBY Apartments S. WALPOLE.
WHITLINGHAM Thorpe Gardens II. CHASTON.
REEDHAM Railway Hotel W. SMITH.
ACLE King's Head Inn Mrs. MITCHT.ET.
„ Queen's Head Hotel Mrs. PEA.RCE.
„ Bridge Angel Inn Mr. ROSE.
„ Fox and Hounds J. NEAVE.
CANTLEY Red House Inn J WILSON.
BittJNDALL ColdhamHall G-. FISHER.
„ Yure Hotel J. H. FAWCETT.
MUTFORD BRIDGE. Wherry Hotel H. MASON.
OULTON BROAD. ... Lady of the Lake Hotel H. MAPON.
Commodore Hotel Q. H. STEBBTNGS.
Temperance Hotel W. WESTHORPE.
Wavency Hotel G. SMITH.
The Bungalow ... DAWBORX BROS.
Apartments J. BULLKK.
5
GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY,
THE
OP
NORFOLK and SUFFOLK.
FAKES FROM LIVEKPOOL STREET OB ST. PANCEAS.
TO
TOURIST.
Available up to 31st
December.
(Issued during th«
Summer Months only).
.A.
FORTNIGHTLY,
Available for 15 days.
B
FRIDAY or
SATURDAY to
TUESDAY.
C
istCl,
•2nd Cl.
3rd Cl.
1st Cl.
^ndCl
3rd Cl.
IstCl.
indCl.
3rd Cl.
s. d.
»1 10
34 0
34 0
»4 0
33 0
33 0
33 0
s. d.
25 6
2fi 6
27 3
27 3
26 3
26 3
26 3
s d.
18 11
20 0
20 0
?0 0
19 9
19 9
19 9
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
s. d.
\Vroxham
Acle
27 fi
27 6
27 6
27 6
27 f.
27 6
20 0
20 0
20 0
20 0
2') 0
20 0
15 0
15 0
15 0
15 0
15 0
15 0
20 0
20 0
20 0
2<> 0
20 0
20 0
15 0
15 0
1) 0
15 0
15 0
15 0
10 0
10 0
10 0
10 0
10 0
10 0
Yarmouth
f»nlt"ii Broid
Carlton Oolville
Lowestoft
A Tourist Tickets are issued by any Train on any da\ , and are available for return by
any of the advertised Trains on any da.v up to anrl including 31st December.
B Fortnightly Tickets are issued by any Train on any day, and are nvailabl • for return
by any Train on any day within 15 days including thr days of issue and return.
C Friday to Tuesday Tickets are issued cvt-ry Friday and Saturday by any Train, and
are available tor return by any of the advertised Trams on the day of issue, or
on any day up to and including the following Tuesday.
TOURIST, FORTNIGHTLY, AND FRIDAY TO TUESDAY
TICKETS are available 10 or from audition*! Stations as follows : — Lowestotc TicKets
at Hecc.lr-s, i :arlton Colville Oultori Broad, Yarmouth, Reedham, Or 'trier ; Yarmouth
Tickets at Reednam. Acle, Lowestoft, Beccles, Cromer ; Croin^r Tickets at Wroxham,
^orth Walsimm, Gunton, Yarmouth, Lowestoft. Passengers will be required to pay
the ordinary local single fares in travelling from one Station to the otiier.
TOURIST, FORTNIGHTLY, AND FRIDAY TO TUESDAY
TICKETS are also i>sued iron. (Jivat Eastern Stations within 1*2 miles of London
(ekeept Stations on the Blackball Line) :it the same f*res MS tro>» Liverpool Street ;
1. 1 HO from >ew Cross (L. "B. & S. C.), Deptford Road, Rotherhithe, Wapping, Suadwell.
"Whitecnapel, and Siioreditcii.
EXTRA JOURNEY RETURN TICKETS AT REDUCED
FARES are is-ued at the above Stations to London and back to holders ui not Jess
than two Tourist or Fortnightly Tickets.
TOURIST TICKETS are also issued from all the principal places in
England, via the L. & N. W., Midland, N.E., M. S & L., L. & Y., G. N.. G. W . «nd
L. « S. W., &c., Railways, as welJ as fruin all the principal Stations on the Great
Eastern Railway.
During the Summer Months Express and Fast Trains run between
London and the principal Stations and tne Stations serving the Broads.
LOWESTOFT IN 3 HOURS. YARMOUTH IN 3i HOURS.
CROMER IN 3i HOURS.
London, U91. WILLIAM BI3T, General Manaffer.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
BERKELEY
Return to desk from which borrowed.
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.
REC'D LD
DEC 10 '63 -9 A
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