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A 

Handbook  to  Winnipeg 


AND  THE 


Province  of  Manitoba 

PREPARED  FOR  THE  79TH  ANNUAL  MEETING 
OF  THE 

British  Association 

FOR  THE 

Advancement  of  Science 

f,  •;',>     1909    .;p 

WITH  NOTES  ON  SOME  OF  THE  CHIEF   POINTS 

TO  BE  VISITED  ON  THE  WESTERN 

EXCURSION 


EDITED  BY  THE  LOCAL  SECRETARIES 


PUBLISHED  BY  THE  LOCAL  EXECUTIVE  COMMITTEE 

WINNIPEG 

1909 


Copyright,  Canada,  1909,  by  W.  SANFORD  EVANS. 


F 


6  75- 


CONTENTS 


Sketch  of  the  History  of  the  City  of  Winnipeg  and 
of  the  Four  Provinces  of  Western  Canada — by 
the  Rev.  George  Bryce,  D.D.,  L.L.D 7 

The  City  of  Winnipeg— by  C.  F.  Roland,  Esq 26 

The  Industries  of  Manitoba — by  C.  F.  Roland,  Esq.       57 

Agriculture  in  Manitoba — by  the  Hon.  R.  P.  Roblin 
and  Principal  W.  J.  Black,  B.S.A.,  with  the 
assistance  of  various  contributors 

The  Geology  of  Canada — by  R.  W.  Brock,  Esq 

The  Climate  of  Manitoba — by  R.  F.  Stupart,  Esq. .  . 

Flora  of  Manitoba — by  the  late  Rev.  Canon  Burman, 
M.  A.,  and  Professor  A.  H.  R.  Duller,  D.  Sc., 
Ph.D 156 

Fauna  of  Manitoba— by  Ernest  Thompson  Seton, 

Esq 183 

The  Fish  and  Fisheries  of  Manitoba — by  Professor 

Edward  E.  Prince 2P8 

The   Indians   of  Western   Canada — by   the    Hon. 

David  Laird 238 

The  Game  Fields  of  the  West— by  P.  J.  Turner,  Esq.     253 
Transportation  in  Canada — by  Geo.  H.  Ham,  Esq. .     268 

Notes  on  some  of  the  chief  points  to  be  visited  on 

the  Western  Excursion 285 

Maps,  in  cover,  prepared  by  James  White,  Esq.,  F.R.G.S. 


PREFATORY  NOTE 

The    Publication    Committee    of    the «    Local     Ex 


^specia'l  L^wkdge  of  the  subjects  upon  which  they 
have  written.  .      , 

The  Committee  desire  also  to  record  their  gratitude 
,  Mr  Tames  White,  Chief  Geographer,  Ottawa  toi 
he  tu&aY taken  in  arranging  for  the  p^para  ^ 

.1  1.1 f**^+-**t  irtr\  1  i"T  ^^ 


tion,  but  also  of  some  permanent 


Editorial  Committee. 


SKETCH   OF   THE    HISTORY   OF  THE  CITY  OF 

WINNIPEG  AND  OF  THE  FOUR  PROVINCES 

OF    WESTERN    CANADA 

By  The  REV.  GEORGE  BRYCE,  D.D.,  L.L.D., 
Honorary  Professor  in  Manitoba  College. 
President  of  the  Royal  Society  of  Canada- 

AROUND  the  pageant  enacted  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie 
by  Sieur  de  St.  Lusson  in  1670  gathered  the  inter- 
est of  the  French  nation  in  the  Canadian  West, 
when,  in  the  name  of  Louis  XIV.,  the  Commissioner 
took  possession  of  "Sainte  Marie  de  Saut,"  as  also  of 
Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  the  island  of  Manitoulin, 
and  all  countries,  rivers,  lakes  and  streams  contiguous 
and  adjacent  there  unto.  A  cedar  cross  was  raised,  and 
upon  it  the  royal  arm  of  France  were  fixed.  Seven- 
teen Indian  tribes  were  invited  to  the  spectacle,  even 
the  far  distant  Crees  and  Assiniboines.  None  of  these 
tribes  disputed  the  French  claim. 

In  the  same  year  Charles  II,  King  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  gave  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  "all  the 
lands,  countries  and  territories  upon  the  coasts  and 
confines  of  the  seas,  streights,  bays,  lakes,  rivers,  creeks 
and  sounds  lying  within  the  entrance  of  the  streights 
commonly  called  Hudson's  streights,"  with  one  limit- 
ation, viz.,  except  those  "which  are  not  now  actually 
possessed  by  any  of  our  subjects,  or  by  the  subjects  of 
any  other  Christian  prince  or  state."  Here  then  came 
in  the  French  claim  that  their  occupation  of  the  Cana- 
dian West  was  first,  and  here,  in  after  days,  arose  the 
claim  of  Canada  for  the  territory  held  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

From  1762,  shortly  after  the  conquest  of  Canada,  the 
Fur  Traders  of  Montreal  began  to  extend  their  trade 


8  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

and  build  forts  throughout  the  wide  region  from  Lake 
Superior  and  Lake  of  the  Woods  westward  to  the  distant 
Saskatchewan. 

In  1772  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  left  the  shore  of 
the  Bay,  which  it  had  tenaciously  hugged  for  a  century, 
and  erected  in  the  Saskatchewan  district  its  first  inland 
post  at  Cumberland  House,  within  a  few  hundreds  of 
yards  of  Sturgeon  Lake  Fort,  which  Joseph  Frobisher, 
one  of  the  Canadian  traders,  had  built.  From  this  time 
forward  the  conflict  of  the  Companies  continued,  until, 
when  once  a  fort  of  the  one  Company  was  established, 
soon  beside  it  appeared  a  fort  of  the  other.  At  one  time, 
about  the  year  1800,  an  offshoot  of  the  North-West 
Company  of  Montreal  added  a  third  fort  at  all  the  chief 
points  of  competition  through  the  Western  country, 
while  there  were  also  a  few  independent  or  "free" 
traders  who  joined  in  the  fray.  Competition  led  to 
waste,  and  ruin  stared  all  in  the  face. 

The  North-West  Company  of  Montreal  was  chiefly 
led  by  a  number  of  vigorous  Scottish  merchants,  who 
after  the  capture  of  Quebec  had  remained  behind  from 
Amherst's  army  or  had  been  drawn  over  from  the 
American  colonies  to  Montreal.  They  became  the 
"Lords  of  the  North."  Their  voyageurs  and  servants 
were  chiefly  French  Canadians.  Through  the  inter- 
marriages of  both  the  leaders  and  the  laborers,  with  the 
Indian  women  in  the  West,  by  the  end  of  the  century 
there  had  grown  up  a  stalwart  race  of  Bois-b rules,  Metis, 
or  Half-breeds,  as  they  were  called.  Among  these  occur 
the  names  of  Grant,  McKenzie,  Sinclair,  McGillivray, 
McLeod  and  Fraser,  as  well  as  of  Sayer,  Nolin,  Falcon, 
Delorme,  Lepine,  Goulet  and  many  others. 

Bound  together  by  the  common  bond  of  Indian  blood, 
they  began  to  feel  their  power  in  the  countrv,  and  called 
themselves  "The  New  Nation."  The  employees  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  largely  of  Orkney  origin, 


OF  MANITOBA  9 

and  the  children  of  their  Indian  wives  were  known  as 
English-speaking  or  English-half-breeds. 

About  the  year  1800  the  competition  of  the  fur  traders 
became  so  fierce  that  the  strife  at  times  reached  the  point 
of  bloodshed,  and  the  companies  began  to  feel  that  ruin 
would  soon  overtake  them.  At  this  juncture  a  young 
Scottish  nobleman,  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  as  early  as  1802 
was  planning  to  bring  a  colony  of  his  Highland  country- 
men to  settle  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Winnipeg.  The 
British  Government,  fearing  that  his  plan  of  bringing 
colonists  to  Hudson  Bay,  and  then  by  rapid  and  portage 
to  the  Red  River,  would  fail,  refused  to  his  Lordship 
their  countenance  in  the  undertaking. 

Having  planted  some  eight  hundred  Highlanders  on 
Prince  Edward  Island  and  a  small  colony  at  Balcoon  in 
Upper  Canada,  Lord  Selkirk  took  advantage  of  the  low 
price  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company  stock  and,  with  his 
friends,  bought  heavily  and  gained  control  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.  He  was  bitterly  opposed  in  this  by 
Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  the  most  prominent  man  of  the 
Canadian  company.  For  better  or  worse,  Lord  Selkirk's 
first  colonists  to  the  Far  West  left  the  Scottish  Hebrides 
by  ship  in  1811  and  reached  York  Factory  on  Hudson 
Bay.  After  a  miserable  winter  they  ascended  the  stream 
from  the  fort  in  heavy  boats,  and  the  first  party  reach- 
ed the  site,  on  the  banks  of  the  Red  River,  where  the 
city  of  Winnipeg  now  stands,  on  the  25th  of  August, 
1812. 

This  is  accordingly  the  natal  day  of  the  Selkirk  Colony , 
and  other  parties  followed.  In  1815  some  one  or  two 
hundred  of  the  colonists  were  induced  by  one  Duncan 
Cameron,  an  officer  of  the  North-West  Company,  who 
wore  a  flaring  red  coat  and  acted  "le  grand  Seigneur," 
to  leave  the  country.  The  fugitives  settled  again  in 
Upper  Canada.  After  their  departure  the  strongest  band 
of  the  colonists  arrived.  Jealousy,  assaults,  and  in  some 
cases  fatal  violence,  prevailed.  Lord  Selkirk's  first 


10  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

Governor,  Miles  Macdonell,  having  been  arrested  by 
the  Nor'-Westers,  the  founder  sent  out  a  military 
officer,  Robert  Semple,  to  be  Governor.  The  new  mili- 
tary Governor  seized  Fort  Gibraltar,  demolished  it,  and 
floated  the  material  down  the  Red  River  to  Point 
Douglas. 

Hostilities  now  commenced  in  earnest;  the  Nor'- 
Westers  were  roused.  They  stirred  up  the  Bois-brules 
on  the  Western  prairies,  and  sent  an  expedition  westward 
from  Fort  William.  The  mounted  Western  hunters  came 
down  to  the  Red  River,  and  crossed  the  prairie  in  sight 
of  Fort  Douglas.  A  parley  between  them  and  the 
Governor  took  place,  and  seemingly,  by  the  accidental 
discharge  of  a  gun,  a  fusilade  began,  and  Governor 
Semple,  his  staff  and  a  few  others,  numbering  in  all 
twenty-one  persons,  were  killed.  This  took  place  at 
Seven  Oaks  on  June  22nd,  1816,  and  the  spot  is  marked  by 
a  monument  on  Main  Street  a  little  north  of  the  city  of 
Winnipeg.  Fort  Douglas  was  then  seized  by  the  Bois- 
bru!6s. 

In  the  following  year  Lord  Selkirk  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  the  Red  River  with  a  band  of  several  hundreds 
of  discharged  soldiers  and  voyageurs,  whom  he  had  hired 
as  settlers  in  Canada.  Fort  Douglas  was  retaken,  and 
the  founder,  after  settling  many  things,  including  a  treaty 
with  the  Indians,  took  his  departure  on  the  arrival  of 
Commissioner  Coltman,  by  whom  the  matter  was  con- 
cluded. In  a  few  years  the  conflicts  ceased,  so  that  after 
much  negotiation  the  two  companies  united  in  1821, 
under  the  name  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The 
new  Governor  was  George,  afterwards  Sir  George  Simp- 
son, of  Scottish  origin,  a  man  of  the  greatest  ability 
who  succeeded  in  thoroughly  consolidating  the  new 
organization. 

While  this  fierce  contest  was  raging  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  North-West  Company  was 
vigorously  pushing  westward  its  posts,  and  fixed  its  eye 


OF  MANITOBA  1 1 

upon  Oregon  and  New  Caledonia,  as  the  regions  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  were  called.  No 
doubt  this  movement  was  stimulated  by  the  fact  that 
an  American  vessel  had  in  1792  entered  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  River  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  After  this 
event,  two  American  explorers,  Captains  Lewis  and 
Clark,  ascended  in  1805  the  Missouri  River  and  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  described  in  Washington 
Irving's  rather  inaccurate  work  known  as  "Astoria." 
John  Jacob  Astor,  a  New  York  merchant,. shortly  after- 
wards planned  a  fur-trading  expedition  to  the  Pacific 
Coast,  visited  Montreal,  induced  a  number  of  Nor'-Wester 
traders  to  enter  his  services,  and  sent  them  by  ship 
around  Cape  Horn  to  enter  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  into 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  and  found  his  trading 
post  of  Astoria. 

An  expedition  of  the  North-West  Company,  under  the 
leadership  of  Astronomer  Thompson  of  that  company, 
hurriedly  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  sought  to 
forestall  Astor's  expedition.  The  Canadian  expedition 
was  too  late  to  prevent  the  founding  of  the  American  post, 
but  this  incident  happening  at  the  time  of  the  war 
with  the  United  States  in  1812,  the  post  was  seized  by 
the  Nor'-Westers  ;  it  was  afterwards  purchased  from 
Astor,  and  his  employees  were  taken  back  into  the 
North-West  Company.  The  northern  part  of  the  coast 
was  known  as  New  Caledonia,  the  majority  of  its  traders 
being  of  Scotch  descent.  After  the  union  of  the  Northr 
West  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies  under  the  name 
of  the  latter,  the  trade  was  carried  on  in  the  Pacific 
department  with  more  energy  than  ever.  The  boundary 
question  between  the  British  and  American  possessions 
long  continued  a  matter  of  dispute.  At  length  by  the 
adoption  of  the  Ashburton  Treaty  of  1842,  which  was 
ratified  in  1846,  the  territory  south  of  the  Columbia 
River  up  to  49°  N.  lat.  was  given  to  the  United  States, 
though  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  large  posts 


12  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

and  much  trade  in  this  district.  This  decision  led  to  the 
transfer  of  Chief  Factor  James  Douglas,  afterwards  Sir 
James  Douglas,  from  the  Columbia  River  to  Vancouver 
Island,  and  here  he  founded  the  fort  around  which  grew 
up  the  city  of  Victoria. 

The  mainland  of  the  Pacific  Coast  and  the  island  of 
Vancouver  belonging  to  Britain,  were  both  con- 
trolled for  many  years  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
till  after  various  changes  they  were  united  in  1866  into 
British  Columbia,  which  remained  a  British  Crown 
colony  for  several  years.  It  was  an  autonomous  pro- 
vince until  its  entrance  in  1871  into  the  Dominion  of 
Canada. 

Coming  back  to  the  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  we 
find  that  about  this  time  on  the  banks  of  the  Red  River 
the  first  Fort  Garry  was  built.  Lower  Fort  Garry  being 
erected  in  1831.  Lord  Selkirk,  discouraged  by  lawsuits 
in  Canada  and  by  the  troubles  of  his  colonists,  died  in 
France  in  1820.  The  land,  forts  and  other  establish- 
ments belonging  to  the  Colonizer  were  administered  for 
fifteen  years  after  his  death  at  great  expense,  and  were 
then  sold  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  In  the  year 
1835  a  government  was  organized  for  the  Red  River 
settlement,  and  a  number  of  the  leading  settlers  and 
more  notable  persons  were  selected  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  and  made  into  the  Council  of  Assiniboia, 
as  they  now  called  the  Red  River  settlement.  The 
colony  grew  slowly,  till  in  1869  it  numbered  about  12,000 
people,  5,000  French  half-breeds,  5,000  English-speaking 
half-breeds,  and  2,000  whites,  the  last  including  the 
Hudson's  Bay  officers  and  their  descendants,  the  Selkirk 
colonists,  and  a  few  Canadians  and  Americans.  Outside 
of  this  settlement  up  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  practically 
no  settlers  dwelt,  apart  from  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

Agitation  had  at  times  taken  place  among  the  people 
of  Red  River  settlement  to  protect  their  liberties  against 


OF  MANITOBA  13 

this  Council,  which  was  still  a  body  appointed  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  responsible  for  the  government 
of  the  country.  About  the  year  1849  a  number  of 
French  half-breeds  rescued  one  of  their  number  from  the 
hands  of  a  severe  judge  and  carried  the  prisoner  away, 
crying,  "Le  Commerce  est  libre." 

Large  petitions  which  were  numerously  signed  by  the 
settlers,  had  been  sent  over  to  England  in  1847.  A  brilliant 
lawyer  and  educationalist  in  London,  A.  K.  Isbister,who 
was  a  native  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Territories,  a  man  of 
Arcadian  and  Indian  descent,  became  the  trusted  ad- 
vocate of  the  people  of  the  Red  River  settlement.  This 
true  son  of  Rupert's  Land  afterwards  left  $83,000  to  the 
University  of  Manitoba.  Further  agitation  led  to  the 
appointment  of  a  committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  in 
1857,  and  a  voluminous  blue  book  marks  the  era  which 
led  to  the  opening  up  of  the  whole  Canadian  West.  Cana- 
dian public  men  crossed  the  Atlantic  again  and  again  to 
England,  until  at  length,  through  the  good  offices  of  Mr. 
Gladstone,  it  was  decided  that  Canada  should  come  into 
possession  of  Rupert's  Land  and  the  Indian  Territories, 
on  the  payment  of  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars  to  quiet 
the  claim  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  better 
elements  of  the  Red  River  settlement  were  now  in  great 
hopes  for  the  future  of  their  country.  But  a  cloud  over- 
shadowed their  bright  visions.  So  far  back  as  1857  the 
Canadian  Government  had  despatched  to  Rupert's  Land 
a  geological  and  topographical  expedition  under  Pro- 
fessor Hine.  About  the  same  time  Great  Britain  sent 
the  Palliser-Hector  expedition  to  spy  out  the  land  and 
make  a  report.  Even  during  these  expeditions  some  ques- 
tion was  raised,  as  to  whether  such  parties  should  be  sent 
at  will  to  explore  the  country.  Again,  in  1869,  when  it 
was  thought  that  the  transfer  of  the  fur  trader's  land  to 
Canada  was  probable,  the  Canadian  Government  sent 
out  surveying  parties  to  block  out  the  land  for  incoming 
settlers.  The  surveyors  chanced  to  begin  in  the  rear 


14  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

of  the  French  parishes,  which  lay  to  the  south  of  Fort 
Garry.  The  surveyors  showed  themselves  as  dis- 
courteous to  the  native  people  as  their  masters,  the 
Government  at  Ottawa,  had  shown  themselves  in  ig- 
noring the  whole  body  of  Red  River  settlers.  The  action 
of  the  Ottawa  Government  in  this  matter  is  almost  un- 
accountable. They  failed  to  send  a  message,  have  a 
conference,  or  in  the  slightest  extent  recognize  the 
twelve  thousand  people  in  the  confines  of  Assiniboia. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  officials  resident  in  the 
country  were  far  from  enthusiastic  about  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  new  regime.  All  trouble  might  have  been 
avoided  by  a  small  amount  of  tact  and  conciliation. 

The  Hon.  William  McDougall  of  the  Canadian  Parlia- 
ment, who  had  taken  much  part  in  the  opening  up  of 
the  west,  and  who  really  had  the  best  interests  of  the 
new  country  at  heart,  came  through  the  United  States  to 
the  boundary  of  Manitoba  to  take  possession  of  the  new 
land. 

Suddenly  the  French  Metis,  under  a  vainglorious  but 
impulsive  leader  of  their  own  blood,  Louis  Riel,  following 
the  tactics  of  their  race  in  Paris,  erected,  some  nine 
miles  south  of  Fort  Garry,  a  "barriere"  and  sent  a  hos- 
tile message  to  the  incoming  Governor.  With  a  band  of 
French  half-breeds,  Riel  next  seized  Fort  Garry,  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  making  no  active  opposition. 
The  English-speaking  people  were  paralyzed,  efforts 
were  made  to  restore  peace,  but  the  French  held  the  Fort. 
Mr.  Donald  A.  Smith,  now  Lord  Strathcona,  a  high  officer 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  came  post  haste  over  the 
American  .prairies  in  the  dead  of  winter  as  Commissioner 
of  the  Canadian  Government.  He  took  up  his  abode  in 
Fort  Garry,  where  Riel  had  also  made  his  headquarters, 
and  succeeded  in  undermining  the  rebel  chieftain's  power. 

Up  to  this  time  all  the  illegal  acts  of  the  rebel  leader 
might  have  been  pardoned,  had  not  Riel,  with  unac- 
countable wisdom,  put  to  death  by  public  execution  a 


OF  MANITOBA  17 

Grand  Trunk  Pacific  and  their  branches.  The  prosperous 
condition  of  these  railways  now  justifies  the  building  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Railway,  which  will  give  a  route,  with 
a  sea  voyage  from  Fort  Churchill  to  Liverpool,  shorter 
than  from  New  York  to  any  British  port. 

As  to  population,  Manitoba  began  with  some  12,000 
people  in  1870,  and  now  is  estimated  to  possess  about 
400,000  of  a  population,  partly  made  up  of  large  num- 
bers of  foreigners  from  the  continent  of  Europe,  as  well 
as  of  many  settlers  from  the  United  Sates. 

Two  great  problems  have,  in  the  provincial  history  of 
nearly  forty  years,  been  of  transcendent  importance. 
First  came  the  great  agitation  for  obtaining  in  the  face 
of  the  bargain  with  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  the 
right  of  the  province  to  build  its  own  railways.  This 
fierce  and  determined  struggle  ended  in  the  province 
gaining  the  same  rights  in  this  respect  as  those 
possessed  by  any  other  province.  The  other  question, 
which  for  some  ten  years  disturbed  the  province  and 
even  spread  into  an  excitement  over  the  whole  Dominion, 
was  the  introduction  of  a  non-denominational  system  of 
public  school  education.  This  question  was  also  decided 
in  favor  of  the  province. 

THE  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORIES 

The  name  '  North-West  Territories'  was  used  in  regard 
to  the  old  region  of  Rupert's  Land,  whose  rivers  ran  to 
Hudson  Bay,  and  also  in  reference  to  the  wide  extent 
known  as  the  Indian  Territories,  occupying  the  slope 
which  is  drained  into  the  Arctic  Ocean.  After  Manitoba 
had  been  taken  from  these  territories  and  organized  into 
a  province,  the  remainder  was,  under  an  Act  passed  by 
the  Mackenzie  Government  of  Canada  in  1875,  placed 
under  the  North-west  Territories  Act,  and  a  Governor, 
with  advisers,  was  given  to  them.  He  resided  in  the 
Territories,  first  at  Fort  Pelly,  then  at  Battleford,  and 


18  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

subsequently  at  Regina.  The  Territories  were  also  placed 
under  a  strict  Prohibitory  Liquor  Law.  Money  grants 
were  passed  for  the  various  departments  of  the  public 
service  by  the  Dominion  Government.  In  course  of  time 
a  Local  Legislature  was  granted  to  the  Territories,  in 
view  of  the  large  influx  of  settlers  pouring  in.  So  great 
was  this  increase  that  the  Territories  grew  to  have  a 
population  of  two-thirds  that  of  Manitoba.  In  1905 
the  Dominion  Parliament  at  Ottawa  passed  legislation 
forming  two  great  provinces  lying  between  Manitoba 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  extending  from  49*  N. 
the  International  Boundary  line  to  lat.  60°  N. 

SASKATCHEWAN 

(. 

The  first  of  these  autonomous  provinces  is  Saskatche- 
wan. It  has  the  vast  extent  of  250,650  square  miles, 
and  is  .possessed  of  the  greatest  agricultural  possibilities. 
It  is  in  its  southern,  half  chiefly  a  prairie;  its  northern 
regions  are  covered  with  forests.  The  south-western 
part  of  the  prairie  is  chiefly  adapted  for  ranching,  some 
portions  of  it  needing  irrigation,  but  the  greater  part,  of 
the  province  is  adapted  for  the  growth  of  cereals  and 
for  mixed  farming.  Its  population  is  about  250,000. 
The  province  has  a  large  proportion,  of  the  old  settle- 
ments made  up  of  Canadians  from  the  eastern  provinces, 
but  in  the  last  decade  vast  numbers  of  foreigners  from 
the  continent  of  Europe,  and  Americans  have  become 
British  subjects  in  Saskatchewan.  Many  of  those  who 
have  come  from  the  United  States  are  repatriated 
Canadians  or  their  children.  The  capital  of  Saskatche- 
wan is  the  city  of  Regina,  which  in  the  last  few  years  has 
built  up  rapidly.  Nedf  by  is  the  city  of  Moosejaw,  a 
railway  centre  created  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway , 
which  rivals  the  capital  in  population.  The  city  of  Prince 
Albert,  near  the  present  northerly  line  of  settlement  of 
the  province,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Saskatchewan 


OF  MANITOBA  19 

River,  and,  being  on  the  verge  of  the  wooded  district, 
may  be  considered  the  lumber  metropolis.  Between 
Regina  and  Prince  Albert  is  the  remarkable  railway  city 
of  Saskatoon,  made  by  the  three  great  lines  of  railway 
crossing  the  South  Saskatchewan  River  at  this  place. 
The  province  of  Saskatchewan  has  attracted  a  most 
enterprising  population,  and  bids  fair  to  be  most  influen- 
tial in  the  counsels  of  the  Dominion.  It  has  a  well 
organized  system  of  primary  and  secondary  schools, 
and  has  taken  steps  to  establish  a  University. 

ALBERTA 

The  sister  province  of  Alberta  is  more  broken  in  sur- 
face, and  from  being  near  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  more 
varied  in  topographical  features  than  Saskatchewan. 
It  has  an  area  of  252,540  square  miles,  though  possessing 
a  population  of  about  100,000.  It  contains  land  of 
every  variety,  forest  lands  and  prairie,  lands  for  grazing 
and  grain  growing,  with  a  large  portion  of  the  southern 
part  of  the  province  demands  irrigation.  It  has  vast  coal 
deposits  of  lignite,  bituminous  and  anthracite  coal,  and 
at  points,  such  as  Medicine  Hat,  great  reservoirs  of 
natural  gas.  The  capital  of  the  province  is  Edmonton, 
a  city  beautifully  situated  on  the  North  Saskatchewan 
River,  and  the  depot  of  the  great  fur  trade  of  the  vast 
Mackenzie  and  Peace  River  districts.  It  has  grown  with 
great  rapidity, -and  is  recognized  by  the  railways  as  the 
great  centre  of  the  North-western  prairies.  The  second 
city  of  the  province  is  Calgary,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  It  has  been  more  steady  in 
growth  than  Edmonton,  is  about  the  same  size,  and 
is  an  important  wholesale  centre  for  Alberta.  Railways 
run  from  Calgary  to  the  different  parts  of  Southern 
Alberta  and  connect  with  the  American  system  of  rail- 
ways. Two  places  of  some  importance  are  found  in 
Southern  Alberta  :  Lethbridge,  a  coal  centre,  and  Medi- 


20  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

cine  Hat,  with  manufacturing  ambitions.  The  irrigation 
works  of  Southern  Alberta  are  notable,  and  in  recent 
years,  by  the  introduction  of  winter  wheat,  Southern 
Alberta  is  becoming  a  wheat-growing  district.  The 
population  of  Alberta  is  very  mixed  ;  it  has  a  Canadian 
basis,  with  large  settlements  of  European  foreigners  and 
an  American  population,  of  which  considerable  numbers 
to  the  south  of  Lethbridge  are  Mormons. 

BRITISH  COLUMBIA 

Mention  has  been  made  already  of  the  early  occupation 
of  the  region  beyond  the  Rockv  Mountains.  The  early 
history  of  British  Columbia  was,  outside  of  the  fur- trading 
interests,  of  very  little  note. 

The  rush  for  gold  1857-8  added  a  few  thousands  of 
people  for  a  time,  but  they  chiefly  left  for  different  parts 
of  the  world  when  the  gold  fever  subsided.  When  the 
province  entered  the  Dominion  in  1871  the  population 
was  estimated  at  17,000,  and  these  were  mainly  in  the 
old  centres  of  Victoria,  New  Westminster  and  Nanaimo, 
with  ranching  settlements  up  the  valleys  of  the  Eraser, 
the  Thompson  and  the  Kootenay  Rivers.  The  increase 
of  population  in  British  Columbia  has  not  been  so  rapid 
as  that  of  the  prairie  provinces,  although  the  growth  of 
the  city  of  Vancouver,  the  terminus  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway,  has  been  remarkable.  The  population, 
which  gathered  around  the  Hudson's  -Bay  Company 
establishments,  was  chiefly  English,  mixed  with  a 
large  element  coming  up  the  Coast  from  San  Francisco 
and  California.  Being  mountainous— it  has  indeed  been 
called  a  sea  mountain  —  and  lying  on  the  sea,  British 
Columbia  has  a  great  yarietv  of  resources.  The  salmon 
and  deep  sea  halibut  fishing  of  British  Columbia,  along 
with  the  seal  fishing  up  the  coast  has  always  been  a 
source  of  wealth  to  the  coast  cities.  Victoria,  the  capital 
on  Vancouver  Island,  was  the  earlier  and  more  important 


OF  MANITOBA  21 

trade  centre.  New  Westminster  on  the  Fraser  River 
had  the  inland  trade  up  the  river.  Nanaimo  has  long 
been  famous  as  the  greatest  coal-producing  centre  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  supplying  large  quantities  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  choice  of  Vancouver  city  on  Burrard  Inlet, 
by  the  Canadian  Pacific  railway  in  1885-6,  at  once  made 
a  new  trade  centre.  The  establishment  of  great  Pacific 
lines  of  ships  to  China  and  Australia  from  the  port  of 
Vancouver  has  built  up  the  city,  while  the  easier  access 
to  the  upper  country  by  railway  has  largely  given  Van- 
couver, with  its  70,000  of  population,  the  leading  place 
in  the  province. 

The  mountains  of  British  Columbia  are  rich  in  gold, 
silver,  copper  and  other  minerals.  The  central  district 
of  Upper  British  Columbia  along  the  Kootenay  River, 
and  the  adjacent  region  have  attracted  population 
and  brought  in  capital  for  the  mines.  The  most  con- 
siderable place  in  this  district  is  the  town  of  Nelson. 
But  the  greatest  resource  of  British  Columbia  at 
present  is  the  forests  with  their  enormous  growth  of 
pines  and  firs  of  different  varieties.  The  timber  export 
from  British  Columbia  to  every  part  of  the  prairie  pro- 
vinces, as  well  as  to  different  parts  of  the  world,  by  sea 
from  Vancouver  is  enormous.  Being  on  the  western 
coast  of  the  continent,  the  climate  of  British  Columbia  is 
moderated  by  the  Pacific  current,  just  as  that  of  the 
British  Isles  is  by  the  Gulf  stream.  Accordingly  the 
valleys  of  British  Columbia,  especially  on  the  Kootenay, 
Okanagan  and  Shuswap  Lakes  are  well  adapted  for 
growing  fruit,  as  are  all  the  valleys  of  the  Fraser  and 
Thompson.  In  many  parts,  however,  irrigation  is  neces- 
sary for  this  industry.  The  soil  of  the  great  interior  of 
British  Columbia  is  largely  made  from  disintegrated 
volcanic  rocks,  and  is  said  to  be  specially  suitable  for 
plant  growing.  The  fact  that  the  prairie  provinces 
are  not  adapted  for  growing  other  than  small  fruits 
gives  this  industry  of  British  Columbia  a  great  opportu- 


22  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

nity  for  development.  British  Columbia  had  before 
the  building  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  no  inter- 
course whatever  with  the  prairie  regions,  nor  with 
Eastern  Canada.  For  years  after  the  province  entered 
the  Dominion,  much  discontent  prevailed  with  the 
terms  of  Confederation.  This  was  practically  allayed 
by  the  completion  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
in  1886.  The  presence  of  large  numbers  of  Chinese, 
Japanese  and  Hindoos  has  given  rise  to  great  prejudice 
and  even  personal  oppsition  to  the  Asiatics  in  British 
Columbia.  Laws  for  the  exclusion  of  these  classes 
have  been  passed  by  the  British  Columbia  Legislature, 
but  these  have  been  vetoed  by  the  Canadian  Govern- 
ment on  account  of  British  treaties  and  interests 
requiring  friendly  relations  with  Asiatic  nations.  The 
building  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  through  the 
northern  part  of  British  Columbia  towards  its  terminus, 
Prince  Rupert,  will  open  a  new  region  of  country  and 
introduce  a  large  Canadian  population.  An  educational 
system  has,  with  much  expense  and  Government  assist- 
ance, been  maintained  in  the  scattered  settlements  in 
the  valleys  and  ranching  districts,  and  many  centres 
of  the  province.  No  provincial  University  has  yet  been 
founded  in  British  Columbia. 

WESTERN  CANADA 

The  later  development  as  a  field  for  settlement  of  the 
four  provinces  now  described,  and  their  separation  from 
Eastern  Canada  by  the  great  stretch  of  unoccupied  terri- 
tory has  naturally  led  to  a  diversity  of  interest  between 
the  agricultural  and  manufacturing  conditions  of  the 
West  and  the  East  of  Canada.  New  communities,  more- 
over, are  apt  to  be  assertive  and  dictatory.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  it  has  been  a  constant  line  of  policy  among 
the  better  class  of  Western  Canadians  to  resent  the  local 
feeling  where  too  exaggerated,  and  to  plead  for  a  United 


1     The  Honorable  Sir  James  Douglas,  First  Governor  of  British  Columbia 

2.  His  Honor  G.  H.  V.  Bulyea,  First  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Alberta. 

3.  His  Honor  Sir  Adams  G.  Archibald,  First  Lleutenant-Gov'r  of  Manitoba 

4.  His  Honor  A.    E     Forget,   First    Lieutenant-Governor  of  Saskatchewan. 

5.  The  Honorable  David  Laird,  Fi  rst  L  leut.-Gov'r  of  Northwest  Territories 


OF  MANITOBA  23 

Canada.  The  cry  "Manitoba  First"  or  "British  Co- 
lumbia First"  is  a  dangerous  and  troublesome  one.  No 
one  doubts  that  Western  Canadians  are  as  thoroughly 
loyal  to  the  British  Crown,  the  British  Constitution  and 
the  British  Empire,  as  Eastern  Canadians  are.  Well 
nigh  forty  years  of  Confederation  has,  it  is  to  be  hoped, 
led  the  West  beyond  most  of  the  dangers  of  young  com- 
munities. The  prosperity  of  the  West  and  the  spread  of 
a  Canadian  spirit  has  been  largely  brought  out  by  a  few 
causes  worthy  of  mention.  The  interests  of  Western 
Canada  have  been  strong  in  the  imagination  of  the  two 
great  statesmen  Premiers  of  the  Dominion — Sir  John  A. 
Macdonald  (1878-1896)  and  Sir  Wilfrid  Laurier  (1896- 
1909).  They  have  both  been  enthusiastic  for  the  West, 
both  have  made  their  policy  national  and  not  local,  both 
have  laboured  and  planned  for  the  greater  Canada.  The 
systems  of  public  school  and  University  education 
brought  to  the  Western  provinces  have  been  thoroughly 
Canadian.  Besides,  the  flow  of  population  from  the 
East  formerly  going  to  the  United  States  because  new 
fields  of  activity  were  needed,  has  been  turned  to  our  West- 
ern provinces,  and  the  proportion  of  young  Canadian 
University  graduates  who  have  come  to  us  has  been  very 
large.  These  as  educated  men  have  given  a  character  to 
our  provincial  life  in  its  legislative  and  educational 
aspects.  Religious  organizations  have  also  done  their 
share.  The  great  self-supporting  churches  of  the 
Dominion  —  Roman  Catholic,  Episcopalian,  Presby- 
terian and  Methodist — have  lavished  men  and  money 
from  Canadian  sources  to  mould  the  West.  In  this  the 
Canadian  Western  movement  has  greatly  exceeded  that 
of  the  United  States,  for  in  the  United  States  the  move- 
ment of  the  churches  fell  behind  that  of  the  people.  In 
Western  Canada  the  Canadian  missionaries  of  the 
different  churches  have  kept  abreast  of  the  forward  line 
of  settlement.  The  national,  educational  and  religious 
movements  of  Canada  have  thus  been  strong  and  uninter- 


24  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

rupted,  and  now  the  Canadian  spirit  takes  hold  of  the 
newcomer,  who,  if  he  come  from  the  continent  of  Europe, 
is  at  once  ambitious  to  learn  the  English  tongue  and  to 
embrace  Canadian  customs.  These  considerations  con- 
stitute an  adequate  reply  to  ardent  Imperialists,  who  fear 
the  results  of  the  admission  into  the  country  of  such  a 
large  foreign  element.  There  is  nothing  in  the  immediate 
outlook  to  warrant  anxiety,  and  Canada  need  have  no 
fear  for  the  future. 


Winnipeg,  the  capital  of  Manitoba,  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  th'e  Assiniboine  and  Red  Rivers,  in  the  middle 
of  a  wide  plain.  The  Red  River  valley  being  of  excep- 
tional richness,  early  attracted  the  traders,  and  so,  in  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century,  gained  the  attention 
of  Lord  Selkirk,  a  benevolent  Scottish  nobleman,  who 
sent  out  in  1811-15  several  hundreds  of  Highland  settlers. 
On  the  site  at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  where,  as 
before  said,  Verandrye — the  first  white  explorer  to  visit 
the  Red  River —  had  three  quarters  of  a  century  before 
this  time  erected  Fort  Rouge,  and  where,  a  decade 
before,  the  Nor'-Westers  of  Montreal  had  built  Fort 
Gibraltar,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  added  Fort 
Douglas,  so  named  after  the  family  name  of  Lord  Sel- 
kirk. After  bloodshed  between  the  rival  fur  companies 
and  their  union  in  1821,  Fort  Garry  (1)  was  built  as  a 
trading  post  and  settlers'  depot.  Afterward  with  a 
more  elaborate  structure,  stone  walls,  bastions  and 
port  holes,  Fort  Garry  (2)  was  constructed  at  a  con- 
siderable cost  in  1853.  A  short  distance  north  of  this 
fort,  about  the  year!860,  the  first  house  on  the  plain 
was  erected,  and  to  the  hamlet  rising  there  was  given 
the  name  of  the  Lake,  45  miles  north,  Winnipeg  (Cree: 
Win,  murky;  nipiy,  water).  The  name  referred  to  the 
contrast  between  its  water  and  that  of  the  transparent 


OF  MANITOBA  25 

lakes  to  the  East.  For  ten  years  the  hamlet  grew, 
though  very  slowly,  since  it  was  more  than  four  hundred 
miles  from  St.  Paul,  the  nearest  town  in  Minnesota,  to 
the  south.  The  fur  traders  did  not  seek  to  increase  its 
size.  When  the  transfer  of  Rupert's  Land  to  Canada 
took  place  in  1870  the  Governor  of  Assiniboia  had  his 
residence  at  Fort  Garry,  and  here  was  the  centre  of  Gov- 
ernment for  the  settlers  in  the  surrounding  area.  The 
acquisition  of  Manitoba  by  Canada,  and  the  influx  of 
settlers  from  Eastern  Canada  led  to  the  greater  impor- 
tance of  Winnipeg,  as  the  new  town  was  now  generally 
called.  The  establishment  of  Dominion  Government 
agencies,  the  formation  of  a  'Local  Government  and  the 
machinery  required  for  the  Government  of  the  province, 
the  influx  of  a  small  army  of  surveyors,  who  mapped  out 
and  surveyed  many  districts  of  the  country,  and  the 
taking  up  of  free  lands  in  all  directions  by  Canadian 
settlers,  all  helped  to  build  up  the  village  of  Winnipeg 
into  a  considerable  town. 


THE  GITY  OF  WINNIPEG 

By  C.   F.  ROLAND,  Esq.,  Winnipeg. 

WHATEVER  may  have  been  Lord  Selkirk's  ori- 
ginal intention  when  he  bought  a  controlling 
interest  in  the  then  depreciated  stock  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  the  outcome,  so  far  as  the  early 
settlers  were  concerned,  was  that  these  people  had 
exceedingly  hard  times  in  Western  Canada.  In  these 
early  days  what  was  known  as  Canada  lay  hundreds 
of  miles  to  the  eastward,  and  the  great  Northwest 
was  a  wilderness  of  value  only  to  trappers  who 
sought  the  pelts  of  fur-bearing  animals  for  the  two 
great  corporations,  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  North- 
west Companies.  The  rigours  of  a  climate  far  more 
severe  than  they  had  been  accustomed  to,  assailed  the 
pioneers  from  Scotland  and  Ireland  who  made  up  the 
first  Selkirk  parties.  They  had  few.  tools  suitable  for 
tilling  the  tough  prairie  sod,  and  most  of  them  lacked 
the  agricultural  lore  necessary  to  attain  success.  They 
were  unskilled  in  hunting  and  had  no  suitable  weapons 
for  the  killing  of  game,  nor  any  horses  for  chasing  the 
buffalo  that  roamed  the  plains  in  thousands  during  the 
summer  until  the  fierce  storms  of  winter  drove  them 
southward.  The 'chief  business  of  the  country  was  the 
gathering  of  furs,  and  between  the  upper  and  nether 
millstones  of  the  two  companies  that  engaged  in  this 
business  in  sharp,  bitter  and  even  deadly  rivalry,  the 
colonists  were  caught  and  ground  so  severely  that  they 
were  fairly  at  a  loss  to  know  what  to  do  to  maintain,  a 
position  which  should  enable  them  to  keep  the  good  will 
of  one  party  without  incurring  the  enmity  of  the  other. 
Six  years  after  the  arrival  of  the  first  contingent  of 
Selkirk  settlers,  a  plague  of  grasshoppers  for  several 
successive  years,  devoured  the  grain  crops  which  the 
colonists  had  been  able  to  grow  with  infinite  toil. 


THE  CITY  OF  WINNIPEG  27 

The  great  flood  of  1826  was  another  disaster  that 
wrought  havoc  to  the  settlers'  hopes.  Because  of  these 
troubles  and  others  of  a  lesser  but  still  serious  nature, 
many  of  the  colonists  left  the  country  seeking  better 
conditions  of  life  than  they  found  under  the  auspices 
of  the  noble  Earl.  On  June  19th,  1816,  matters  were 
brought  to  a  climax  between  the  rival  fur-trading  parties 
by  the  Seven  Oaks  massacre,  in  which  twenty-one  on 
the  side  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  one  man  of  the  North- 
west Company  lost  their  lives.  This  sanguinary  episode 
gave  pause  to  both  parties  in  the  fight  for  trade  suprem- 
acy. There  can  be  no  doubt  that  after  this  incident 
life  for  the  Selkirk  settlers  on  the  banks  of  the  Red 
River,  became  more  endurable. 

After  the  grasshopper  plague  had  passed  in  1823,  the 
grain  crops  became  again  abundant,  and  the  settlement 
at  Kildonan,  out  of  which  grew  the  City  of  Winnipeg, 
became  more  firmly  established.  It  was  many  years, 
however,  before  the  growth  began  which  in  less  than 
forty  years  has  made  a  city  of  130,000  people  from  a 
tiny  village.  The  Seven  Oaks  affray  called  the  at- 
tention of  the  home  Government  in  England  more 
closely  to  the  seriousness  of  the  quarrel  in  the  Northwest 
between  the  fur-trading  companies,  and  stricter  super- 
vision resulted.  Trade  sprang  up  between  the  settle- 
ments on  the  Red  River  and  the  United  States  settle- 
ments to  the  South.  The  richness  of  the  soil,  and  the 
ease  of  cultivation  becoming  known  to  more  people, 
settlers  came  into  the  country,  not  only  from  Great 
Britain  by  the  way  of  Hudson's  Bay,  but  also  from 
Eastern  Canada  and  the  United  States.  In  1862,  the 
first  steamboat  — •  the  Anson  Northup  —  navigated  the 
upper  Red  River  as  far  as  Fort  Garry  with  a  good  cargo 
of  freight  and  a  number  of  passengers,  a  great  event 
for  the  colonists  of  those  days. 

Realizing  their  need  of  a  more  stable  Government,  the 
Northwest  territories  petitioned  the  Canadian  Govern- 


28  Tin-,    CITY 

ment  in  1857  to  include  them  in  the  Dominion.  This 
step  was  not  actually  carried  out  for  some  years;  the  con- 
federation was  finally  decided  upon  and  entered  into  in 
1869,  the  Northwest  territories  becoming  a  part  of 
Canada.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  paid  £300,- 
000  as  an  indemnity. 

This  act  of  confederation  brought  on  the  first  Riel  Re- 
bellion which  grew  out  of  claimS  made  by  the  half-breeds 
that  they  were  the  real  owners  of  the  land  and  should 
receive  payment  for  it.  The  half-breeds  heavily  out- 
numbered the  whites,  and  led  by  Louis  Riel,  a  French 
half-breed  of  some  ability  and  much  initiative,  made 
prisoners  the  white  population  of  the  Winnipeg  settle- 
ment. These  were  confined  in  Upper  Fort  Garry  and 
one  man,  Thomas  Scott,  was  executed.  The  others  were 
released  after  having  been  imprisoned  in  the  Fort  for 
some  weeks.  Troops  sent  from  the  East  brought  order 
out  of  the  chaos  into  which  the  Riel  Rebellion  had 
plunged  the  public  affairs  of  the  Red  river  settlement, 
and  from  that  time  the  tiny  trading  post  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Red  and  Assiniboine  rivers,  took  on  a  new 
character.  In  1870  the  first  census  of  Winnipeg  was 
taken,  and  showed  213  persons  in  the  village.  Eleven 
years  afterwards,  in  1881,  there  were  7,985  people,  and 
Winnipeg  had  been  an  incorporated  city  since  1874.  By 
leaps  and  bounds  the  city's  growth  has  advanced.  In 
1891  the  population  was  27,068.  In  1901  it  had  grown  to 
44,778,  and  during  the  five  years  from  1900  to  1906,  the 
city  more  than  doubled  its  population.  This  increase  was 
chiefly  due  to  immigration  from  Great  Britain,  other 
European  countries,  and  the  United  States.  More  than 
ten  thousand  of  the  present  population  of  130,000  resi- 
dent within  the  city  limits  have  come  from  the  United 
States.  Geographically,  Winnipeg  is  situated  almost 
halfway  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts  of 
British  North  America,  and  sixty  miles  north  of  the 
boundary  line  between  Canada  and  the  United  States. 


OF  WINNIPEG  29 

Politically,  it  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Manitoba, 
and  commercially,  the  leading  city  of  Western  Canada. 

The  government  of  the  city  is  carried  on  under  a 
Charter  from  the  Provincial  Legislature.  The  Council 
is  composed  of  a  Mayor,  four  Controllers  forming  the 
Board  of  Control,  and  fourteen  Aldermen.  The  Mayor 
and  Controllers  are  elected  annually  by  vote  of  the 
entire  city.  One  Alderman  is  elected  annually  from 
each  of  the  seven  wards  into  which  the  city  is  divided, 
and  holds  office  for  a  term  of  two  years.  The  Mayor  is 
Chief  Magistrate  of  the  city.  Persons  eligible  for  elec- 
tion as  Mayor  and  Controller  must  be  owners  of  property 
rated  on  the  assessment  roll  of  the  city  to  the  value  of 
two  thousand  dollars.  Aldermsn  must  possess  propertv 
rated  in  like  manner  to  the  amount  of  five  hundred  dol- 
lars. Nominations  and  elections  are  held  annually  in 
December. 

The  Board  of  Control  is  the  executive  body,  and  as 
such  deals  with  all  financial  matters,  regulates  and  super- 
vises expenditures,  revenues  and  investments.  It  also 
directs  and  controls  departments,  nominates  all  heads 
of  departments,  prepares  specifications,  advertises  for 
tenders  and  awards  all  contracts  for  works,  materials 
and  supplies  required.  It  further  inspects  and  reports 
to  the  Council  upon  all  municipal  works  being  carried 
on  or  in  progress,  and  generally  administers  the  affairs 
of  the  city.  The  public  schools  are  under  the  control  of 
the  Public  School  Board,  elected  annually  by  the  rate- 
pavers.  The  police  department  is  under  the  authority 
of  the  Board  of  Police  Commissioners,  which  consists  of 
the  Mavor,  the  County  Court  Judge,  the  Police  Magis- 
trate and  two  Aldermen  appointed  bv  the  Council. 

The  present  Mayor  of  Winnipeg  is  W.  Sanford  Evans, 
elected  in  December  1908  to  succeed  Mayor  James  H. 
Ashdown,  the  latter  declining  a  nomination  for  a  third 
term.     Since  the  first  election  of  a  mavor  of  Winnipeg 
in  1S74,  the  city  has  had  the  following  twenty-two  chief 


30  THE    CITY 

Executives  —  including  Mr.  Evans  the  present  Mayor 

1874  Francis  Evans  Cornish,  Q.  C. 

1875  William  Nassau  Kennedy. 

1876  William  Nassau  Kennedy. 

1877  Thomas  Scott. 

1878  Thomas  Scott. 

1879  Alexander  Logan. 

1880  Alexander  Logan. 

1881  Elias  George  Conklin. 

1882  Alexander  Logan. 

1883  Alexander  McMicken. 

1884  Alexander  Logan. 

1885  Charles  Edward  Hamilton. 

1886  Henry  Shaver  Weshook. 

1887  Lyman  Melvin  Jones. 

1888  Lyman  Melvin  Jones. 

1889  Thomas  Ryan. 

1890  Alfred  Pearson. 

1891  Alfred  Pearson. 

1892  Alexander  McDonald. 

1893  Thomas  William  Taylor. 

1894  Thomas  William  Taylor. 

1895  Thomas  Gilroy. 

1896  Richard  Willis  Jameson. 

1897  William  F.  McCreary. 

1898  Alfred  J.  Andrews. 

1899  Alfred  J.  Andrews. 

1900  Horace  Wilson. 

1901  John  Arbuthnot. 

1902  John  Arbuthnot. 

1903  John  Arbuthnot. 

1904  Thomas  Sharpe. 

1905  Thomas  Sharpe. 

1906  Thomas  Sharpe. 

1907  James  H.  Ashdown. 

1908  James  H.  Ashdown. 

1909  W.  Sanford  Evans. 


OF  WINNIPEG  31 

During  the   thirty-four  years   that   these  gentlemen 

have  filled  the  mayor's  office,  the  city  has  made  wonder- 
ful progress. 

Condensed  and  reduced  to  figures,  the  growth  of  Win- 
nipeg since  1890  is  given  in  the  following  table: 

Total 

Year         Real               Personal        Assessable,  Popu- 

April        Property        Property        Property  lation 

1891  $17,587,420    $2,365,850     $19,994,270  27,068 

1892  17,845,450       2,492,650       20,338,100  29,182 

1893  18,658,200       3,034,000      21,692,300  32,119 

1894  18,760,950       3,240,380       22,001,330  34,954 

1895  19,125,510       3,043,480       22,168,990  37,124 

1896  19,498,660      2,061,770       22,650,430  37,983 

1897  19,745,930       3,086,090       22,832,020  38,733 

1898  19,670,680       3,181,020       22,851,700  39,384 

1899  '      20,049,890       3,469,630       23,519,520  40,112 

1900  '  *  21,316,000       3,761,460       25,077,460  42,534   \ 

1901  '      22,355,600       4,050,170       26,405,770  44,778    \, 

1902  IT  23,938,860       4,676,950       28,615,810  48,411  * 

1903  b:  y  30,873,910       5,399,490       36,273,400  56,603 

1904  1;  U41,10(5,870       7,108,080       48,214,950  67,265  l< 

1905  '      53,786,070      8,941,560       62,727,630  72,795*' 

1 906  rVt  69,624,550     10,887,175      80,511,725  101,057  *' 

1907  '   93,855,500     12,333,333     106,188,833  111,717     '^ 

1908  102,790,170     13,316,220     116,106,390  118,252 
The  growth  of    the  public  school     system  is  of  con- 
siderable interest,  and  is  shown  in  the  following  table: 

Teach-  Build- 
Year                                 ers        ing             Cost  Pupils 

1871 1          1  35 

1876 4         2           $  3,500  123 

1886 49       11            220,000  2,831 

1896 96       14            397,700  6,374 

1900 119       16           487,000  7,500 

1903 140       18            750,000  9,500 


32  THE    CITY 

1904 168  19  774,500  10,308 

1905 192  21  1,071,701  11,675 

1906 220  26.  1,213,931  13,445 

1907 248  30  1,700,000  14,835 

1908 267  33  2,000,000  15,499 

The  city's  public  school  system  is  well  housed  in 
buildings  of  the  most  modern  and  substantial  construc- 
tion. By  an  Act  of  1890  and  subsequent  amending  Acts 
it  is  provided  that  all  state-aided  schools  shall  be  free 
and  non-sectarian.  The  school  system  is  directed  by  a 
department  of  the  Provincial  Civil  service  known  as  the 
Department  of  Education  presided  over  by  the  Minister 
of  Education  (at  present  the  Hon.  G.  R.  Coldwell,  K.C.) 
and  his  deputy  (Mr.  R.  Fletcher,  B.A.).  There  is  an 
advisory  board  for  the  purpose  of  assisting  the  depart- 
ment in  more  technical  matters.  This  board  consists  of 
ten  members  appointed  by  the  department  and  other 
bodies.  Provision  is  made  for  both  primary  "and  second- 
ary education,  the  primary  course  extending  over  eight 
years.  In  the  rural  districts  of  the  Province  which  are 
sparsely  populated,  the  schools  are  small  and  the 
attendance  is  irregular. 

In  many  communities  where  there  is  a  variety  of  race 
and  language,  bi-lingual  schools  have  been  established, 
but  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  organize  a  Ruthenian 
Normal  school  for  the  training  of  teachers  for  schools 
for  this  class  of  pupils.  There  are  two  Ruthenian  schools 
in  the  Province,  one  in  Winnipeg  and  one  in  Brandon. 
The  language  question  in  the  city  schools  presents 
little  difficulty  as  there  is  alwavs  a  certain  number  of 
English-speaking  children;  the  teachers  speak  English, 
and  the  foreign  children  learn  the  language  very  quickly. 

Secondary  education  is  carried  on  in  the  Intermediate 
and  High  schools  and  Collegiate  institutes.  The  In- 
termediate schools  serve  the  smaller  centres  of  popula- 
tion, and  carry  on  the  first  two  years  of  High  school 


OF   WINNIPEG  33 

work.  The  High  schools  and  Collegiate  institutes  offer 
a  choice  of  three  courses,  a  two  years  course  leading  to  a 
certificate  of  competency  in  commercial  subjects,  a  three 
years  course  leading  to  matriculation  in  the  University, 
and  a  four  years  course  for  a  teacher's  certificate  of  the 
first  class.  Collegiate  institutes  •  must  have  not  fewer 
than  four  teachers;  the  Principal  must  be  a  University 
graduate,  and  the  assistants  must  hold  at  least  first 
class,  grade  A,  certificates.  Principals  of  High  Schools 
must  have  at  least  first  class  grade  A  certificates,  and 
the  assistants  those  of  first  class  grade  B .  Several  other 
institutions  organized  for  higher  education,  but  having 
preparatory  departments  as  well,  do  the  work  of  a 
secondary  school.  Their  courses  for  the  most  part  lead 
to  matriculation  in  the  University. 

Professional  training  for  teachers  is  given  in  the 
Provincial  Normal  school  and  its  model  school.  The 
Principal  is  Dr.  W.  A.  Mclntyre  and  this  school  is  the 
centre  of  the  system.  Its  work  goes  far  to  determine  the 
ideals  and  aims  of  its  students  in  training,  and  the  spirit 
and  tone  of  the  schools  conducted  by  them.  On  its 
efficiency  depends  in  a  large  measure  the  success  of  the 
teaching  force  of  the  Province.  Supervision  of  the 
various  schools  is  exercised  by  means  of  a  corps  of 
experienced  and  skilled  inspectors.  The  funds  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  schools  are  raised  by  a  general 
municipal' tax  sufficient  to  give  to  each  school  district 
$240  per  annum  for  each  teacher,  and  by  special  levy 
on  the  land  situated  within  the  school  district,  for  what- 
ever sum  may  be  necessary  in  addition  to  the  amount 
received  from  the  municipality  and  the  government 
grant,  which  is  $130  per  school. 

At  the  organization  of  the  Province,  two  sections  of 
land  in  each  township  were  set  aside  for  school  purposes 
and  a  portion  of  these  lands  havebeen  sold  at  good  prices. 
The  proceeds  of  the  sale  go  into  the  School  Lands  Fund, 


34  THE    CITY 

which  according  to  the  law  governing  the  matter  is  in- 
vested by  the  Government  in  securities  bearing  three 
per  cent.  The  revenue  thus  derived  from  the  fund  and 
the  interest  on  deferred  payments  are  handed  over  by 
the  Dominion  Government  for  the  benefit  of  the  schools. 
(The  question  is  frequently  asked  why  a  fund  belonging 
to  the  Province,  for  the  maintenance  of  one  of  the  most 
important  interests  of  the  Province  should  be  invested 
in  securities  yielding  such  a  meagre  return,  when  loan 
companies  and  other  conservative  and  careful  corpor- 
ations find  safe  investments  that  yield  them  double  the 
rate.) 

In  addition  to  the  state-aided  institutions  there  are 
in  Winnipeg  several  excellent  private  schools.  Higher 
education  in  the  Province  is  undertaken  by  the  Univer- 
sity of  Manitoba  and  certain  colleges.  The  University 
is  a  small  and  by  no  means  beautiful  structure.  It  re- 
sembles, in  fact,  in  size  and  general  style  the  public 
elementary  schools  of  the  city.  But  it  must  be  explained 
that  the  University  at  present  only  teaches  scientific 
subjects.  Arts,  Medicine,  and  Agriculture  are  taught 
in  "affiliated"  colleges  which  are  scattered  in  various 
parts  of  the  city.  Thus,  the  classics  and  modern  lan- 
guages are  taught  in  the  four  "affiliated"  denominational 
colleges,  St.  Boniface  (Roman  Catholic),  St.  John's 
(Church  of  England),  Manitoba  College  (Presbyterian), 
and  Wesley  College  (Methodist) ,  Medicine  is  taught  in 
the  Manitoba  Medical  College,  and  Agriculture  in  the 
Manitoba  Agricultural  College  (Provincial  Government) 
at  Tuxedo  Park.  The  University  of  Manitoba  has  been  a 
teaching  institution  for  5  or  6  years.  Founded  in  1871 
as  an  Examining  Board,  the  University  itself  at  present 
undertakes  instructions  in  Mathematics,  Chemistry, 
Physics,  Botany,  Physiology,  Pathology  and  Bacteri- 
ology, and  Civil  and  Electrical  Engineering.  But 
chairs  in  English,  History  and  Political  Economy  have 
been  recently  established,  and  these  new  departments 


OF  WINNIPEG  35 

will  commence  work  next  October.  The  government 
and  organization  of  the  University  is  undoubtedly  in  an 
unsatisfactory  state,  and  is,  in  fact,  the  subject  of  a  Gov- 
ernment Commission  at  the  present  time.  There  is  a 
widespread  feeling  that  the  Province  ought  to  have  a 
Provincial  University  of  the  type  provided  in  many 
States  of  the  Republic  to  the  South  and  entirely  free 
from  any  denominational  influences.  In  addition  to  the 
denominational  colleges  mentioned  above  there  is  a 
Baptist  college  at  Brandon. 

Winnipeg  is  not  yet  largely  provided  with  learned 
societies,  but  two  perhaps  deserve  mention,  viz.:  the 
Historical  Society  and  the  Scientific  Club.  There  are 
numerous  social  clubs  and  societies  of  various  kinds. 
Among  the  former  are  the  Manitoba  and  Commerical 
Clubs  ;  prominent  among  the  latter  are  the  Canadian 
Club  of  Winnipeg,  the  Women's  Canadian  Club  and 
the  Women's  Musical  Club. 

The  churches  of  Winnipeg  have  also  kept  pace  with 
the  city's  growth  and  there  are  now  115  churches  of 
various  denominations  in  Winnipeg.  All  of  these  have 
been  established  since  1869  although  the  Rev.  John 
West,  a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England,  came  to 
the  Selkirk  colony  in  1820,  and  the  Rev.  John  Black 
arrived  in  1851  to  take  charge  of  the  Presbyterian 
congregation. 

The  bulk  of  Winnipeg's  church-going  population  is 
divided  between  the  Presbyterian,  Anglican,  Roman 
Catholic  and  Methodist  churches.  Calculated  on  a 
population  basis  of  100,000,  the  religious  preference  cen- 
sus of  Winnipeg  shows  eighteen  per  cent  Presbyterian; 
seventeen  per  cent  Church  of  England;  fifteen  per  cent 
Roman  Catholic ;  thirteen  and  a  half  per  cent  Methodist ; 
five  per  cent  Baptist;  five  per  cent  Hebrews;  seven  per 
cent  Evangelical  Lutheran ;  three  and  a  quarter  per  cent 
Congregational ;  one  per  cent  Salvation  Army ;  seven  and 


36  THE    CITY 

a  quarter  per  cent  of  other  denominations,  and  eight  per 
cent  with  no  preference  to  avow. 

Winnipeg,  the  capital  of  Manitoba,  is  the  seat  of  the 
Provincial  government  and  judiciary.  Here  are  the 
Provincial  Parliament  buildings  and  the  chief  Law 
Court  of  the  Province.  The  present  provincial  govern- 
ment is  of  the  Conservative  party  and  its  chief  officers 
are  :  The  Honorable  R.  P.  Roblin,  Premier  and  Min- 
ister of  Agriculture,  the  Honorable  Robert  Rogers, 
Minister  of  Public  Works,  the  Honorable  Hugh  Arm- 
strong, Provincial  Treasurer,  the  Honorable  G.  R.  Cold- 
well,  Municipal  Commissioner  and  Minister  of  Education, 
the  Honorable  Colin  H.  Campbell,  Attorney-General, 
the  Honorable  J.  H.  Howden,  Railway  Commissioner 
and  Provincial  Secretary.  The  Manitoba  judiciary  is 
modelled  upon  the  British  Law  Courts  system,  with 
Assize  Court,  County  Court,  Provincial  Police  Courts  and 
Civic  Police  Courts  for  the  different  judicial  districts  and 
the  cities.  From  the  highest  Court  in  the  Province— 
the  Court  of  Appeals — there  is  a  further  appeal  to  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Canada,  and  from  there  to  the  Privy 
Council  in  London.  Winnipeg  possesses  a  civic  police 
force  of  one  hundred  officers  under  command  of  J.  C. 
McRae.  This  force  is  deemed  insufficient  and  is  to  be 
augmented  by  the  addition  of  seventy-five  officers,  the 
establishment  of  five  sub-stations,  the  installation  of  an 
electric  call  system,  and  patrol  wagons  at  each  of  the 
stations,  central  and  auxiliary. 

The  civic  government  of  Winnipeg  is  marked  by  a 
progressive  policy  in  keeping  with  the  remarkable 
growth  of  the  City.  At  the  present  time  the  municipal 
officers  are:  His  Worship  Mayor  W.  Sanford  Evans; 
the  Board  of  Control  consisting  of  Mayor  Evans,  Chair- 
man, R.  D.  Waugh,  J.  W.  Cockburn,  A.  A.  Me  Arthur, 
J.  G.  Harvey;  Aldermen  F.  W.  Adams,  R.  C.  McD.onald, 
F.  O.  Fowler,  E.  Cass,  R.  T.  Riley,  Lendrum  McMeans, 
W  G.  Douglas,  W.  R.  Milton,  J.  R.  Gowler,  M.  Wil- 


OF  WINNIPEG  37 

loughby,  F.  J.'C.  Cox,  C.  Midwinter,  J.  A.  Potter,  D.  W. 
McLean. 

Municipal  ownership  is  recognized  and  popular 
with  our  citizens,  and  is  widely  adopted.  The  city 
owns  and  operates  its  water- works  plant,  street  lighting 
system,  stone  quarry,  fire  alarm  system,  asphalt  plant 
and  a  high  pressure  plant  for  the  better  protection  of  the 
city  from  fire.  Winnipeg  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being 
the  first  city  in  America  to  acquire  a  municipal  asphalt 
plant.  In  1906,  the  city  purchased  a  stone  quarry  for  civic 
improvement  purposes,  and  this  quarry  is  worked  for 
the  production  of  road  metal  and  material  for  grano- 
lithic walks.  The  material  for  these  granolithic  walks 
is  composed  of  crushed  stone,  sand  and  cement.  Con- 
structed as  they  are  by  the  city  employees,  these  side- 
walks are  practically  indestructible.  There  are  more 
than  78  miles  of  such  pavements  in  Winnipeg,  all  of 
which  have  been  laid  down  by  the  civic  street  de- 
partment. 

Most  important  of  all  the  municipally  owned  public 
utilities  is  that  of  a  plant  which  is  now  in  process  of  con- 
struction at  Point  du  Bois  for  the  furnishing  of  cheap 
power  to  consumers  in  Winnipeg.  In  1906  the  citizens 
of  Winnipeg  passed  a  by-law  authorizing  the  Council  to 
borrow  $3,250,000  to  be  used  in  acquiring  this  site  and 
installing  the  necessary  plant  and  works  to  bring  the 
power  to  the  city.  The  preliminary  surveys  and  ex- 
aminations were  made  in  1906  and  the  designs  com- 
menced in  the  same  year.  During  1907  the  designs  were 
completed  and  tenders  received.  Contracts  for  building 
a  24  mile  steam  railway  approaching  the  works  on  the 
Winnipeg  River  and  for  clearing  the  transmission  line 
have  been  let  and  this  work  is  nearly  completed.  Mr. 
Cecil  B.  Smith,  C.  E.,  is  Chief  Engineer  in  charge  of  the 
design  and  construction  of  this  water  power  develop- 
ment and  a  Board  of  Consulting  Engineers,  composed 


38  THE    CITY 

of  Col.  H.  N.  Ruttan,  City  Engineer,  Winnipeg;  Prof. 
Louis  Herdt,  Montreal;  and  Wm.  Kennedy,  Jr.,  Mon- 
treal have  also  been  appointed  to  advise  upon  and  as- 
sist in  the  designs.  The  machinery  and  plant  will  be 
second  to  none  on  the  continent  of  North  America. 
When  the  power  is  available  it  is  estimated  that  it  can  be 
sold  to  consumers  at  the  sub-stations  in  the  city  at  $18.00 
per  H.  P.  per  annum  for  the  first  installation  of  about 
17,000  horse  power.  When  the  demand  for  power  has 
increased  sufficiently  to  warrant  the  step,  the  amount 
available  will  be  increased  to  34,000  H.  P.  and  the  cost 
at  sub-stations,  it  is  estimated,  will  then  be  reduced  to 
$13.87  per  annum.  When  the  full  capacity  of  the  plant 
shall  have  been  developed — about  60,000  horse  power 
per  annum  has  been  fixed  at  $12.46  for  each  unit. 

Consumers  of  electric  power  in  Winnipeg  are  now 
supplied  by  the  Winnipeg  Electric  Railway  Company— 
a  private  corporation  —  at  a  cost  of  from  $35.00  per 
horse  power  per  annum  upwards,  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  of  power  consumed.  During  the  early  part 
of  the  current  year,  negotiations  were  entered  into  be- 
tween the  civic  authorities  and  the  Winnipeg  Electric 
Railway  Company  with  a  view  to  purchase,  by  the  city, 
of  the  Company's  generating  power  plant  at  Lac  du 
Bonnet,  and  of  the  several  other  utilities  of  the  Com- 
pany, including  the  Winnipeg  street  car  system,  the 
gas  plant  which  now  furnishes  the  'city  with  gas  for 
lighting  and  fuel,  and  the  domestic  electric  lighting 
franchise.  These  negotiations,  however,  fell  through 
and  several  large  contracts  were  let  for  the  work  on  the 
municipal  power  plant  the  first  installation  of  which  is 
expected  to  be  completed  in  191 1.  In  1905  the  city 
was  authorized  to  proceed  with  the  construction  of  a 
municipal  gas  plant*  to  cost  $600,000.  But  although 
some  investigations  were  carried  out,  no  definite  pro- 
ceedings have  yet  been  undertaken. 


OF  WINNIPEG  39 

Of  the  public  utilities  owned  by  Winnipeg,  the  water- 
works system  is  perhaps  the  most  important.  Until 
1899,  the  city  was  supplied  with  water  by  a  private  cor- 
poration, but  it  was  decided  to  take  this  highly  import- 
ant matter  under  municipal  control  and  ownership. 
The  present  system  was  thereupon  installed — in  a  small 
way  at  first — and  has  been  extended  concomitantly  with 
the  growth  of  the  city. 

In  view  of  the  geological  formation  of  the  surrounding 
country  artesian  wells  constitute  the  only  practicable 
means  of  obtaining  a  satisfactory  water  supply  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood.  The  river  water  is  too  muddy 
to  be  used  for  a  domestic  supply  without  costly  filtration; 
there  are  no  suitable  lakes  from  which  a  gravitation 
supply  may  be  obtained  within  a  reasonable  distance 
of  the  city.  In  the  future,  however,  the  growth  of  the 
city  will  undoubtedly  compel  the  utilization  of  a  distant 
supply,  whatever  expense  may  be  involved.  For  the 
present  the  artesian  well  system  is  found  to  yield  an 
adequate  supply  of  water,  which,  although  hard,  is  prac- 
tically free  from  organic  impurities. 

The  Winnipeg  water  supply  is  taken  from  six  of  these 
artesian  wells  which  are  about  65  feet  deep,  except  well 
No.  (5)  which  is  110  feet  deep,  and  their  capacity  is  as 
follows  : 

Well  No.  (2)  3,000,000  gallons. 

Well  No.  (3)      900,000  gallons. 

Well  No.  (4)  1,200,000  gallons. 

Well  No.  (5)  5,000,000  gallons. 

Well  No.  (6)  1,500,000  gallons. 

This  gives  a  daily  total  supply  of  ten  million  gallons 
which  has  thus  far  proved  ample  for  the  city's  needs. 
The  water  is  pumped  into  reservoirs,  one  of  300,000, 
and  the  other  of  6,000,000  gallons  capacity  and  from 
these  is  distributed  to  the  several  parts  of  the  city. 


40  THE  CITY 

The  water,  in  its  natural  state  contains  a  large  amount 
of  carbonates  of  lime  and  magnesium,  and  in  order  to 
remove  these  constituents  the  water  is  put  through  a 
softening  process,  which  removes  on  an  average,  about 
sixty-eight  per  cent,  of  the  hardening  substances.  This 
softening  plant  was  installed  in  1900  but  not  all  of  the 
city  water  is  subjected  to  the  softening  process,  although 
a  proposition  recently  made  to  accomplish  this  was  re- 
jected on  the  ground  of  unnecessary  expense.  For  the 
purposes  of  the  City  Water  Works  Department,  Win- 
nipeg is  divided  into  three  districts^  ^id  the  rates  are 
fixed  on  the  basis  of  the  number  of  rooms  in  the  houses 
supplied.  For  instance  for  a  house  containing  4  rooms 
or  less  the  rate  is  $1.50  per  quarter,  while  for  a  house 
of  16  rooms  the  rate  is  $5.55  per  quarter.  The  allow- 
ance according  to  the  consolidated  rate,  is  20  gallons 
per  room  per  day,  and  special  rates  are. given  to  manu- 
facturers who  use  large  quantities  of  water. 

Supplementary  to  the  civic  water  works  system,  and 
for  the  better  protection  of  the  city  from  fire,  Winnipeg 
has  a  high  pressure  plant  which  has  been  put  in  actual 
service  within  the  past  few  months.  Four  years  were 
occupied  in  the  construction  of  this  plant,  which  cost 
$1,000,000.  The  engine  house,  the  heart  of  the  system, 
is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Red  river  at  the  foot  of 
James  street  east.  The  building  is  of  massive  brick 
construction  158  by  92  feet  inside  measurement  and  was 
constructed  entirely  by  day  labor.  Owing  to  the  character 
of  the  soil  in  that  vicinitv  the  excavation  for  foundations 
and  engine  beds  had  to  be  carried  to  a  great  depth,  but 
the  concrete  work  was  pushed  throughout  the  winter  of 
1906-7  demonstrating  that  winter  construction  is  per- 
fectly feasible  in  Manitoba.  The  solidity  of  the  struc- 
ture is  one  of  its  most  striking  features.  The  roof  is  car- 
ried on  steel  trusses,  supported  by  heavy  steel  columns, 
which  also  carry  their  share  of  the  weight  of  the  heavy 


OF  WINNIPEG  41 

cranes  used  in  handling  the  machinery.  These  columns 
divide  the  building  into  two  bays,  each  of  which  contains 
ihree  of  the  six  pumping  units.  Water  is  drawn  through 
two  suction  mains  24  inches  in  diameter,  tapering  to 
16  inc*hes  before  they  drop  into  the  wells,  which  draw 
water  from  the  river  through  a  36-inch  concrete  culvert, 
connected  with  deep  water  to  give  freedom  from  mud 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

The  engines  are  of  producer  gas  type  of  the  Cross- 
ley  make,  and  are  of  the  "Otto"  or  four  cycle  construc- 
tion having  single  acting  tandem  cylinders.  All  parts 
subject  to  the  high  temperature  of  the  exploding  gas 
mixture,  are  water  cooled,  and  the  low  tension  magnetic 
ignition  system  is  in  duplicate.  The  four  large  engines 
are  of  540  brake  horse  power  each  when  running  on  pro- 
ducer gas,  and  have  cylinders  32  inches  in  diameter  with 
36-inch  stroke.  The  smaller  engines  are  of  250  horse 
power  each  with  cylinders  of  22  inches  diameter  and  30- 
inch  stroke.  For  starting  these  engines,  compressed  air 
at  200  pounds  pressure,  is  employed.  It  is  turned  into 
the  cylinders  as  in  a  steam  engine  and  as  soon  as  the 
engine  is  under  motion  the  gas  mixture  is  fed  in.  The 
compressor  plant  consists  of  two  20-horse  power  engines 
driving  single  acting  air  compressors.  In  the  gas  pro- 
ducer plant  any  quality  of  coal  may  be  used,  either 
anthracite,  bituminous  or  lignite,  and  with  anthracite  at 
$8.50  per  ton,  the  cost  of  operation  is  425  cents  per  horse 
power  per  hour.  The  plant  is  now  being  operated  on 
bituminous  slack.  The  coal  is  delivered  on  a  spur  track 
at  the  rear  of  the  main  building  and  is  raised  by  an  ele- 
vator to  the  conveyors,  which  deliver  it  to  the  hoppers 
of  the  producers.  Of  these  there  are  four, — two  of 
1,000-horse  power  and  two  of  500-horse  power  capacity. 
The  producers  are  of  the  familiar  tvpe,  the  gas  being 
formed  by  passing  steam  and  air  in  definite  proportions 
over  the  incandescent  fuel.  From  the  producers  it 


42  THE  CITY      ; 

passes  through  the  "scrubbers"  where  it  is  cleared  of 
certain  impurities  and  delivered  to  the  gasometer  out- 
side, which  has  a  capacity  of  250,000  cubic  feet  of  gas,  or 
enough  to  run  one  engine  for  eight  hours  at  full  load. 
So  complete  is  the  equipment  that  all  of  the  engines  can 
be  started  up  and  a  full  load  put  on  the  mains  in  five 
minutes.  The  total  pumping  capacity  of  the  plant  is 
9,000  gallons  of  water  a  minute  or  23,000,000  gallons  a 
day  of  24  hours.  In  other  words  the  six  engines  would 
fill  a  tank  of  1,440  cubic  feet  in  one  minute.  The  four 
main  units  are  capable  of  delivering  1,800  gallons  of 
water  a  minute  at  a  pressure  of  300  pounds  to  the  square 
inch,  and  as  the  service  requires,  other  units  are  readily 
thrown  into  action  up  to  the  full  capacity  of  the  plant. 

In  practice  the  action  of  water  at  300  pounds  pressure 
to  the  inch  is  tremendous,  for  this  pressure  is  equivalent 
to  a  column  of  water  700  feet  in  height.  Tests  have 
shown  that  a  column  of  water  can  be  thrown  200  feet  in 
the  air,  and  with  the  equipment  at  the  high  pressure 
plant  24  streams  of  1J  inches  diameter  each  could  be 
thrown  over  the  top  of  the  Union  Bank,  the  tallest 
building  in  Winnipeg,  or  ten  streams  of  two  inches  each, 
an  argument  which  any  fire,  possible  in  the  city,  must 
needs  respect. 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  city  has  installed  78  of  the 
high  pressure  hydrants  and  has  laid  down  7  miles  of 
special  water  mains  of  8,  10,  12  and  20  inch  diameter. 
The  hydrants  are  so  arranged  that  a  number  of  streams 
from -them  can  be  concentrated  on  any  section  of  the 
business  area  thus  giving  the  greatest  measure  of  pro- 
tection. In  addition  to  these  hydrants  the  city  has 
1,245  hydrants  connected  with  the  domestic  pressure. 
The  fire  fighting  equipment  consists  of  38,000  feet  of  1\ 
inch  hose,  5,500  feet  of  3£  inch  hose,  and  48  branches 
and  tips  ranging  in  size  from  1^  to  2£  inches  in  diameter. 
In  the  high  pressure  district  there  are  three  fire  halls  with 


OF  WINNIPEG  43 

a  staff  of  60  men.  At  the  pumping  station  26  men  are 
employed  in  three  shifts,  and  in  an  ordinary  running 
day  five  tons  of  coal  are  used.  The  estimated  annual 
expense  of  operation  is  about  $45,000. 

The  chief  streets  of  Winnipeg  are  splendidly  wide  and 
smoothly  laid  in  asphalt  pavement,  with  granolithic 
sidewalks  proportionate  to  the  width  of  the  carriage 
and  traffic  ways.  Residential  streets  are  "boulevarded" 
and  have  rows  of  trees  on  either  side  with  asphalt  pave- 
ment and  granolithic  walks,  the  whole  giving  a  clean  and 
pleasant  appearance.  The  city  parks  although  small 
are  numerous,  but  there  are  some  of  larger  extent  in 
the  suburbs,  notably  the  new  city  park  on  the  Assini- 
boine  River.  This  park  is  nearlv  300  acres  in  extent 
and  has  been  tastefully  laid  out.  There  are  eight  theatres 
in  Winnipeg ;  three  or  four  of  the  larger  houses  are  so 
enterprising  as  to  secure  some  of  the  best  touring  com- 
panies on  the  continent.  Owing  to  the  comparative 
remoteness  from  other  large  centres  Winnipeg  has  been 
able  to  support  for  some  years  a  very  efficient  stock  com- 
pany. Favorite  summer  resorts  for  the  people  of  Win- 
nipeg are  Winnipeg  Beach  situated  on  Lake  Winnipeg, 
and  within  easy  reach  of  the  city;  and  Kenora  on  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods  about  100  miles  distant. 

Winnipeg  is  very  important  as  a  railway  centre.  But 
the  excellent  railroad  facilities  that  now  exist  are  a  com- 
paratively recent  achievement.  The  first  railway  to 
afford  transportation  east  and  west  through  Manitoba, 
was  the  Canadian  Pacific,  a  company  that  now  has 
some  13,000  miles  of  track  and  carries  passengers  and 
freight  three-quarters  of  the  way  round  the  world  by 
land  and  sea.  This  great  transportation  company  is 
the  outgrowth  of  a  government  scheme  originated 
about  1870,  for  the  construction  of  a  transcontinental 
line  across  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  In  1878  when  the 
Conservatives,  under  Sir  John  A.  Macdonald,  were 


44  THE  CITY 

returned  to  power,  the  building  of  the  railway,  which 
had  been  carried  on  under  the  auspices  of  the  govern- 
ment in  power,  was  turned  over  to  a  company  formed 
by  capitalists  for  the  purpose;  the  principal  terms  of 
the  agreement  being  that  the  syndicate  thus  formed 
should  receive  $25,000,000  in  cash  payments  and  25,- 
000,000  acres  of  land  skirting  the  railroad  tracks  through 
the  provinces  traversed  by  the  line.  The  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway  Company  thus  became  possessed  of 
large  tracts  of  land  which  were  then  considered  to  be  of 
little  value,  but  which  have  since  turned  out  to  be  worth 
a  very  large  sum  of  money  for  agricultural  and  other 
purposes.  The  company  refused  to  accept  the  land 
along  their  tracks  in  parts  of  British  Columbia,  and  in 
place  of  this  a  new  allotment  was  made  of  land  in  the 
Peace  River  Valley,  through  which  the  Canadian 
Pacific  company  became  possessed  of  some  2,000,000  or 
3,000,000  acres  of  the  best  land  of  that  far  north- western 
country  which  is  as  yet  so  sparsely  settled,  but  which 
promises  to  add  another  section  of  unexampled  richness 
to  the  already  extensive  domains  in  the  Canadian  North- 
west. 

By  June,  1881,  the  Canadian  Pacific  had  completed  its 
tracks  across  Manitoba,  from  Winnipeg  "west  to  Portage 
la  Prairie  and  eastward  to  Kenora,  or  Rat  Portage  as  it 
was  then  called  and  had  also  taken  over  the  Pembina 
branch  of  the  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  and  Manitoba  road 
from  Winnipeg  to  the  Manitoba  boundary  on  the  south, 
at  Emerson.  Since  that  time  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  has  made  marvellous  progress  toward  pre- 
eminence among  the  railroad  systems  of  the  world.  It 
has  not  only  stretched  its  lines  of  steel  across  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  continent  of  North  America,  but  has 
built  thousands  of  miles  of  branch  tracks  and  has  insti- 
tuted great  lines  of  ocean-going  vessels  on  both  Atlantic 
and  Pacific.  It  has  also  a  complete  system  of  passenger 


OF  WINNIPEG  45 

and  freight  service  on  the  Great  Lakes,  another  fleet  on 
the  inland  waters  of  British  Columbia,  a  line  of  fast  boats 
from  Vancouver  to  Victoria  and  Seattle  and  perhaps 
the  most  thorough  equipment  of  hotels  and  hotel  service 
all  along  the  route  of  travel  in  Canada,  of  any  railroad 
company  in  the  world.  Immense  elevators  for  the  stor- 
ing of  grain  must  be  added  to  the  list  of  conveniences  for 
the  transaction  of  the  business  incident  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  such  a  powerful  railroad  system,  and  when 
it  is  stated  that  the  development  of  the  Canadian  North- 
west and  that  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  have 
been  coincident  events,  no  surprise  need  be  manifested, 
because  there  have  been  on  the  one  side,  the  numerous 
and  well  nigh  mandatory  calls  of  the  people  for  greatei 
railroad  facilities  and  on  the  other,  strong  and  con- 
tinuous efforts  of  the  corporation  to  supply  these  de- 
mands to  the  best  of  its  ability. 

In  Western  Canada  all  roads  lead  to  Winnipeg.  No 
railway  corporation  would  think  of  trying  to  pass 
through  any  part  of  Western  Canada  from  east  to  west 
certainly,  or  from  south  to  north  except  in  the  far  west- 
ern part,  without  touching  the  prairie  city.  No  trav- 
eller thinks  of  visiting  anv  part  of  the  Canadian  North- 
west without  making  Winnipeg  one  of  his  principal 
stopping  places.  Merchants,  manufactures,  capitalists, 
mechanics,  and  immigrants  of  all  kinds,  in  short,  all 
sorts  and  conditions  of  men  who  decide  to  make  their 
home  in  Western  Canada,  come  in  the  first  place  to 
Winnipeg,  and  frequently  make  it  their  headquarters. 

Situated  as  it  is  almost  in  the  very  heart  of  the  con- 
tinent. Winnipeg  has  become  not  only  an  important 
focus  of  railway  traffic,  but  is  also  rapidlv  developing 
into  a  great  centre  of  railway  industries.  It  is  the  home 
of  thousands  of  railroad  employees,  and  is  conspicuously 
a  "railroad  town."  It  is  indeed  confidently  asserted  by 
many  that  it  will  soon  become  one  of  the  greatest  rail- 
road centres  of  the  world. 


46  THE  CITY 

The  Winnipeg  station  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
Company  is  a  new  and  very  fine  structure.  This  station 
is  one  of  the  chief  centres  of  human  interest  in  the  city, 
and  provides  a  striking  study  in  nationalities  and  social 
conditions,  for  in  its  waiting  hall  are  found  represent- 
ative immigrants  from  almost  every  country  on  the  face 
of  the  globe,  and  from  every  rank  of  society.  Mingled 
together  in  this  motley  throng  are  the  poorest  of  Eur- 
opean peasants,  impoverished  members  of  aristocratic 
families,  and  immigrants,  who  are  better  equipped  for 
commencing  their  career  in  a  new  country.  There  is  a 
fair  sprinkling  too  of  wealthy  travellers,  tourists  and 
others.  The  varied  nature  of  costume  including  as  it 
frequently  does  the  Winnipegger's  winter  uniform,  the 
"coon  coat,"  side  by  side  with  the  picturesque  garb  of 
Central  Europe  or  of  China  or  Japan,  adds  in  no  small 
degree  to  the  interest  of  the  scene.  On  the  whole  there 
are  few  places  where  one  would  encounter  a  more  cos-/ 
mopolitan  or  picturesque  multitude. 

The  railway  yards  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Company 
are  stated  to  be  the  largest  in  existence  which  are  owned 
by  a  single  corporation.  There  are  120  miles  of  track  with 
accommodation  for  more  than  10,000  cars.  Con- 
veniently situated  west  of  the  city  are  the  central  work- 
shops of  this  company,  which  are  on  a  specially  large 
scale.  In  them  all  sorts  of  repairs  to  the  rolling  stock 
are  carried  out,  and  sufficient  men  are  employed  to  make 
up  with  their  wives  and  families  a  fair-sized  town. 
Indeed  the  district  of  the  city  in  which  these  people  live 
is  often  referred  to  as  C.  P.  R.  town,  and  their  total 
number  must  be  close  upon  12,000,  the  actual  number  of 
workmen  being  3,500.  The  population  of  C.  P.  R.  town  is 
thus  more  by  4,000  than  that  of  Winnipeg  at  the  time 
when  the  railway  was  constructed. 

When,  in  1881,  the  first  Canadian  Pacific  rails  were 
laid  west  of  Winnipeg,  the  white  population  of  Canada 
between  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  was 


OF  WINNIPEG  47 

66,161.  Manitoba  contained  59,187  people  of  whom 
8,000  were  in  Winnipeg.  In  the  Northwest  territory 
there  were  only  6,971  white  people  practically  all  living 
on  the  fur  trade,  while  there  were  49,500  Indians. 

In  this  territory  or  three-fourths  of  the  prairie  country 
there  was  only  one  white  person  for  every  35  square 
miles  of  arable  land.  To-day  there  are  more  than 
twice  as  many  people  in  Winnipeg  alone  as  there  then 
were  in  all  of  the  vast  country  between  the  Great  Lakes 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  spreading  their  tracks 
all  over  this  country  are  three  other  great  railway  sys- 
tems besides  the  Canadian  Pacific. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  Canadian  Pacific  is  the 
Canadian  Northern  Railway  which  has  also  undergone  a 
phenomenal  growth  and  is  of  even  more  recent  estab- 
lishment than  the  Canadian  Pacific.  The  following  is  a 
short  history  of  the  beginning  and  growth  of  the  Cana- 
dian Northern.  In  1895  the  Charter  was  obtained  for 
the  Lake  Manitoba  Railway  and  Canal  Company,  and  in 
the  following  year  the  construction  of  a  railway  from 
Gladstone  was  commenced.  One  hundred  miles  of  road 
were  completed  by  the  Autumn  of  1896  and  at  once  put 
in  operation.  Each  year  thereafter  mileage  was  added 
to  the  Canadian  Northern  system  until  in  1909  the  road 
covers  or  controls  no  less  than  3,000  miles  of  track. 
This  extends  east  and  west  from  Fort  William,  includes 
a  line  from  Edmonton  south  to  Duluth  and  numerous 
branches  throughout  the  three  prairie  provinces.  Plans 
are  now  being  prepared  for  the  extension  of  the  road 
west  to  Vancouver  and  east  to  the  Atlantic  Coast,  and 
this  scheme  will  undoubtedly  be  carried  through  within 
the  next  few  years. 

The  Winnipeg  railway  works  of  the  Canadian  Northern 
Railway  are  large  and  in  the  future  are  certain  to  con- 
stitute one  of  the  chief  local  industries.  New  buildings 
on  an  extensive  scale  have  just  been  completed  at  Fort 
Rouge  and  at  present  a  force  of  nearly  1 ,000  men  is  em- 


48  THE  CITY 

ployed  in  the  various  departments.  These  include  the 
numerous  branches  of  work  in  connection  with  the 
building  and  repair  of  rolling  stock.  As  the  mileage  of 
the  road  increases  throughout  the  west  this  force  will 
be  constantly  augmented.  The  group  of  buildings 
known  as  the  shops  of  the  Canadian  Northern  at  Fort 
Rouge,  comprise  the  round  house,  boiler  shops,  erecting 
shops,  blacksmith  shops,  machine  shops,  coach  shops, 
coach  yard  and  repair  tracks. 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  Canadian  Pacific  and  the 
Canadian  Northern  have  been  the  principal  railroads 
of  Western  Canada,  but  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  is  fast 
approaching  completion,  and  will,  when  finished,  be  a 
means  of  travel  and  transportation  little,  if  at  all,  in- 
ferior to  the  magnificent  system  built  up  by  the  Can- 
adian Pacific.  No  less  ambitious  than  its  predecessors 
in  the  field,  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  Company  was 
formed  to  carry  out  a  stupendous  scheme  of  transcon- 
tinental transportation,  and,  in  due  season,  of  ocean 
navigation  also.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1903 
and  has  contracts  with  the  Canadian  government  for 
the  construction  and  operation  of  a  transcontinental 
road  of  which  the  main  line  alone  will  be  3,600  miles 
long.  Branch  lines  are  provided  for  under  a  charter 
granted  to  a  subsidiary  company,  formed  in  1906,  which 
will  increase  the  total  mileage  by  about  5,000  miles.  The 
main  line  will  stretch  from  Moncton,  New  Brunswick, 
to  Prince  Rupert,  British  Columbia,  and  the  chief  point 
of  division  between  the  two  terminal  cities  is  Winnipeg. 
For  purposes  of  construction,  the  system  is  divided  into 
two  parts,  the  eastern  and  western  divisions  with  Winni- 
peg as  the  central  point.  This  gigantic -scheme  has  been 
undertaken  in  order  that  transportation  facilities  may 
keep  pace  with  the  great  flow  of  immigration  and  the 
continuous  development  of  the  freight  traffic. 

The  Grand  Trunk  system  in  the  United  States  will 
form  a  valuable  adjunct  to  the  Canadian  roads,  and  will 


OK   WINNIPEG  49 

add  to  the  transcontinental  and  transoceanic  facilities 
of  the  latter  the  service  of  a  railroad  which  already 
operates  nearly  6,000  miles  of  track.  Besides  this  great 
amount  of  trackage  in  the  States  the  Grand  Trunk 
system  has  almost  4,000  miles  of  road  in  operation  in 
eastern  Canada,  and,  since  the  Grand  Trunk  system  and 
that  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  are  so  closely  allied  as 
to  make  the  two  corporations  practically  one,  the 
result  must  be  that  the  portion  now  known  as  the  Grand 
Trunk  road  will  be  practically  added  to  the  Grand 
Trunk  Pacific,  thus  forming  one  of  the  largest,  if  not 
actually  the  largest,  transportation  company  in  the 
world. 

Work  on  all  sections  of  this  great  new  road  is  proceed- 
ing with  much  dispatch.  The  Union  station  in  Winni- 
peg, which  is  to  accommodate  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific, 
the  Canadian  Northern  and  the  Great  Northern,  is  ap- 
proaching completion ;  and  parts  of  the  new  road  are  now 
open  for  traffic.  Shops  and  yards  that  will,  when  com- 
pleted, cost  about  $5,000,000  are  under  process  of  con- 
struction, and  Winnipeg  is  clearly  destined  to  figure  as 
largely  in  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  as  it  does  in  other 
great  railway  systems  of  Canada. 

The  other  great  railway  system  that  has  its  Western 
Canadian  centre  in  Winnipeg—  the  Great  Northern — has 
not  done  so  much  toward  the  enlargement  of  its  service 
in  Western  Canada  as  its  rivals  in  the  field.  From" time 
to  time,  however,  the  "big  man"  of  the  Great  Northern 
—James  J.  Hill— has  announced  his  intention  of  build- 
ing across  the  continent  in  Canada,  and  there  is  no  doubt 
that  this  will  be  done  in  time.  The  Great  Northern 
holds  title  to  a  considerable  tract  of  property  in  Winni- 
peg, is  an  important  factor  in  handling  the  grain  crop  of 
the  West,  and  runs  some  of  the  best  trains  that  carry 
passengers  between  Winnipeg  and  United  States  points. 
And  when  the  Hudson's  Bav  railroad  is  completed  to 
Fort  Churchill  or  -Fort  Nelson,  as  the  case  mav  be, 


50  THE  CITY 

Winnipeg  will  be  the  chief  inland  city  through  which 
traffic  to  Europe  by  the  new  route  will  follow.  This 
road  has  been  the  dream  of  transportation  men  in 
Northern  America  for  years.  Long  ago  the  eyes  of 
those  who  looked  about  them  for  the  best  means  of 
transportation  between  the  old  country  and  the  Can- 
adian Northwest  were  directed  towards  the  Hudson's 
Bay  route.  In  the  early  days  of  settling  the  Northwest 
country,  when  the  great  fur-seeking  corporation  had  to 
transport  large  quantities  of  supplies  into  the  country 
each  season,  and  had  also  to  carry  the  furs  that  their 
trappers  gathered  for  them  to  their  headquarters  in 
England,  the  company's  ships  had  access  to  the  North- 
west Territories  by  way  of  the  great  body  of  water  lying 
to  the  north  into  which  that  enterprising  old  Dutch 
skipper,  Hendrick  Hudson,  found  his  way  on  one  of  his 
several  voyages  of  discovery.  That  the  great  bay  that 
bears  his  name  will  become  part  of  a  system  of  trans- 
portation over  which  the  grain  crop  of  the  north-western 
part  of  Canada  will  find  its  way  to  the  markets  of  the  old 
world,  appears  to  be  certain. 

Winnipeg  is  nearer  to  Liverpool  by  way  of  Fort 
Churchill  and  Hudson's  Bay  by  about  1,117  miles  than 
the  Manitoba  capital  is  to  the  same  market  by  way  o 
Chicago,  and  840  miles  nearer  than  by  the  Canadian 
Pacific  road  through  Ontario  and  the  eastern  provinces 
to  the  sea.  It  should  be  noted  that  the  saving  of  dis- 
tance which  will  be  accomplished  by  the  adoption  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  route  is  chiefly  on  the  land  part  of  the 
journey,  an  important  factor  in  the  consideration  of 
freight  charges.  From  Winnipeg  to  Fort  Churchill  the 
proposed  port  on  the  bay  is  but  650  miles  and  a  portion 
of  the  distance  is  already  covered  by  the  tracks  of  the 
Canadian  Northern  road. 

If,  as  the  latest  government  report  recommends,  the 
road  shall  be  built  to  Fort  Nelson  instead  of  Fort  Chur- 
chill, the  distance  will  be  decreased  by  eighty-five  miles. 


OF  WINNIPEG  51 

This  report  also  touches  upon  the  possibilities  of  com- 
munication by  water  with  Winnipeg  as  it  is  considered 
possible  to  produce  a  deep-water  sailing  course  from 
Hudson's  Bay  to  Winnipeg  by  following  the  natural 
water  courses  and  dredging  a  deeper  channel  where  it  is 
required. 

Great  as  has  been  the  development  of  the  railways  in 
Western  Canada  within  the  past  twenty  years,  when  we 
bear  in  mind  the  remarkable  and  manifold  productive- 
ness of  the  country,  there  is  still  a  vast  field  for  continued 
enterprise.  It  would  perhaps  be  no  exaggeration  to  say 
that  railway  construction  in  this  great  country  is  still  in 
its  infancy.  In  the  province  of  Manitoba  alone  there  are 
still  20,000,000  acres  of  land  available  for  farming  and 
the  handling  of  the  produce  of  the  five  or  six  million 
acres  at  present  under  cultivation  is  a  severe  tax  upon 
the  railways  now  in  operation.  If  we  add  to  this  the 
future  industrial  expansion  of  the  provinces  of  Sas- 
katchewan and  Alberta  with  an  acreage  of  159,038,720 
and  161,920,000  respectively,  and  the  province  of  British 
Columbia  with  its  great  resources  in  mining,  lumbering, 
fishing,  and  fruit  growing,  it  is  difficult  to  adequately 
prophecy  the  magnitude  of  the  future  railway  devel- 
opment. 

The  phenomenal  growth  of  Winnipeg  has  been  materi- 
ally aided  by  the  efficient  car  service  rendered  by  the 
Winnipeg  Electric  Railway  Company.  The  following 
figures  indicate  the  substantial  progress  made  by  the* 
city.  The  running  of  the  first  street  car  on  Main  Street 
from  Fort  Garry  to  the  City  Hall,  took  place  on  October 
21st,  1882.  The  hydro-electric  power  plant  at  Lac  du 
Bonnet  was  started  in  1903  and  completed  in  1907.  In 
1900  less  than  3£  million  passengers  were  carried,  in  1904 
the  paid  fares  had  run  to  9£  millions,  and  in  1905  to  over 
13  millions,  in  1906  over  17£  millions,  and  in  1908, 
20,000,000  passengers  were  carried.  The  substantial 
increase  resulted  in  the  gross  earnings  of  the  company 


52  THE  CITY 

rising  from  $28,132  in  1900,  to  $831,736  in  1904  ; 
in  1905  the  earnings  amounted  to  $1,119,768,  while  in 
1908  the  total  earnings  had  reached  the  greatly  increased 
figures  of  $2,206,000. 

At  the  Lac  du  Bonnet  Falls  on  the  Winnipeg  River, 
about  65  miles  from  the  city  of  Winnipeg,  the  Street 
Railway  company  has  a  water  power  plant  capable  of 
developing  more  than  30,000  horse  power,  of  which 
under  ordinary  conditions,  certainly  27,000  horse  power 
can  be  delivered  in  Winnipeg  for  use.  Installed  at  a 
cost  of  over  $3,000,000  this  plant  is  a  model  of  expert 
construction  and  economical  production  of  power. 
The  present  capacity  of  the  plant  is  28,000  horse  power 
but  the  company  can,  at  a  comparatively  small  outlay 
for  raising  their  dam,  and  installing  additional  machinery 
for  which  provision  has  been  made  increase  the  present 
capacity  by  at  least  50  per  cent,  or  say  42,000  to  45,000 
horse  power.  The  company  has  also  its  steam  plant, 
with  a  capacity  of  7,000  horse  power  in  readiness  to  be 
used  in  emergency. 

There  are  69  hotels  in  Winnipeg,  many  of  which  are 
well  equipped.  By  far  the  finest  of  these  is  the  Royal 
Alexandra — the  Canadian  Pacific  Station  Hotel.  The 
entrance  hall  or  "rotunda"  and  public  rooms  are  on  a 
magnificent  scale  and  the  appointments  generally  com- 
pare favorably  with  those  of  any  hotel  in  the  world. 
As  might  be  expected  from  the  nature  of  Winnipeg's 
business  and  the  'extent  of  its  ramifications  it  has  be- 
come a  necessity  that  the  city  should  be  specially  well 
supplied  with  banks.  The  various  banking  houses  have 
established  branches  and  erected  costly  buildings,  which 
form  a  striking  feature 'of  the  business  thoroughfares  of 
Winnipeg. 

The  beginning  of  banking  in  the  prairie  provinces  of 
Western  Canada  is  traceable  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. Less  than  half  a  century  ago  there  was  no  means 
of  sending  money  out  of  the  country  except  through 


OF   WINNIPEG  53 

their  good  offices.  To  send  money  to  New  York,  Paiis 
or  London,  it  was  necessary  to  buy  from  them  a  sixty- 
day  bill  drawn  on  London.  This  was  the  only  medium 
of  exchange.  In  1871  the  Dominion  Government 
established  a  money  order  office  in  Winnipeg.  This  was 
appreciated,  but  there  was  still  an  urgent  need  of  or- 
ganized banking  institutions.  In  the  same  year,  1871, 
the  late  Mr.  Gilbert  McMicken  arrived  in  Winnipeg  as 
receiver-general  for  the  Dominion  Government,  and 
opened  a  savings  bank.  Very  shortly  after  the  opening 
of  the  Government  savings  bank,  Mr.  Alex.  McMicken, 
son  of  the  receiver-general,  opened  a  private  bank  in  a 
building  which  stood  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the 
Queens  Hotel.  In  December,  1872,  the  McMicken  bank 
was  the  only  institution  of  its  kind  in  Manitoba,  but  on 
the  10th  of  that  month  the  Merchants'  Bank  opened  an 
office  in  a  building  on  Main  street.  This  was  Winnipeg's 
first  chartered  bank.  From  this  very  modest  beginning 
the  present  banking  system  of  Winnipeg  has  grown  up, 
and  there  are  now  the  following  banks  in  active  oper- 
ation in  the  citv  : 


54 


THE  CITY 


a    : 
o  o 

OQ 


CO  !>•  i—4  O  CO 
O5  C<f  O"  I>  t>-~ 


iO  o  CO 


OOOOO 
OO-*OO 
OO^OO 


O  O  <M  O  O 
O  O  b-  O  O 
CO  O  *O  O  iO 
CO"  T-H"  -^H"  CO'  T-T 


CD  "^  CO  00^  CO  C5_I> 

co"  oo  co"  <M"  i-T  T-T  oo" 


OiOO  OCO 
T-HOCOiO^iO 
OOr-HCOiOCOO 


CO      ^  o  O 


CO  <M  T-H  OO  (N  (N 


COOOOOOO 
COOOOfMOO 
COOOO>-iOO 


CC  <M 


CO 


OOO  OO 
O"*OOOO 
OOOOOO 


—  o  o  o  o  o  o 
^ooor^oio 

I-H  O  ^  O  Tfi  O5  <M 


o  •*  o      o  10 

coiooooji> 


0    ri 


O  O  iO  O  O 
O  O  ^f  O  O 

°>  o,  ^  o  o_ 

O"  o"  <M~  o'  o" 


COOOOOOO 
cot^OOCviOO 

CD  O  O  O  i—  (  O  O 


OO1><NOO 
O-^COOiOOO 
C^CDiOiOOt>- 


OCOOOOOO 
coOOOOt^OO 
OOOOOrtiOO 


Oi  Tfi  (M  Oi  O  r-  1 
CO>O<N<MO<M 
O5  O5  CO  i—  i  Oi  00 


*| 

°s 


OOOOO 
OOOOO 
O  O  CO  O  O 


OOOOOO 
OOOOOO 
1>  i—  i  CD  O  O  tO 


o  c  c^  c  o 

OO^OO 


co"  '—  i  o  o  co  o  o" 

cDOOOOt^Oo 


co 


o  o 


CD 


CO  CO 


CO"  ^  o  (N  CO  CO" 


CO 


CO 


<u 
C 
1)  .i3 


g<       CO  CO  --I  (N  o: 


CO  to  t^-  O2 


a 
i 
PQ 


00  00  00  00  00      -< 


COiOtOiO«DcD 

oooooo 


oo 


co^ 


5/3  <fci  « 


OF  WINNIPEG  55 

Some  idea  of  the  recent  growth  of  the  banking  business 
of  the  West— with  its  central  point  at  Winnipeg — may 
be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  in  1900  the  banks  which 
now  have  nearly  five  hundred  branches,  had  only  one 
hundred  and  thirty-one.  An  important  function  of  the 
banking  houses  of  the  West  is  the  financing  of  the  grain 
crop,  which  they  are  called  upon  to  perform  annually 
after  the  harvest  season.  It  is  the  boast  of  the  bankers 
that  they  have  never  failed  to  promptly  meet  the  sudden 
and  enormously  increased  demand  for  money  at  this 
period  of  the  year. 

Winnipeg  is  the  natural  gateway  through  which  the 
commerce  between  Western  Canada  and  territories 
east  and  south  of  Winnipeg.  The  city  has  therefore 
made,  and  is  still  making  rapid  strides  as  a  centre 
especially  of  wholesale  trade,  and  is  destined  to  become 
one  of  the  greatest  distributing  centres  on  the  con- 
tinent. It  is  stated  that  the  annual  turnover  of  the 
wholesale  houses  is  nearly  one  hundred  million  dollars. 
Naturally  enough  the  exports  passing  out  of  Winnipeg 
are  the  products  of  the  Northwest,  wheat  and 
other  grains,  cattle,  furs,  sheep,  wool,  hogs,  horses,  oat- 
meal, flour,  hides  and  wood  pulp.  The  imports  are,  as 
is  to  be  expected,  manufactured  articles  from  older 
countries.  Winnipeg  is  a  customs  port  of  entry  and 
its  imports  are  increasing  in  value  at  the  rate  of  a 
million  or  more  dollars  each  year.  As  illustrating  the 
growth  of  the  city  it  may  be  mentioned  that  buildings 
of  all  kinds  of  a  total  value  of  $50,749,580  have  been 
erected  within  the  past  six  years.  It  is  estimated  that 
no  less  a  sum  than  twelve  million  dollars  will  be 
expended  in  the  erection  of  buildings  during  the  present 
year.  Many  of  the  buildings  are  of  considerable  archi- 
tectural excellence,  and  it  is  noticeable  that  with  one 
exception  there  are  no  erections  of  the  skyscraper  kind, 
so  common  in  cities  in  the  United  States. 

The  hasty  growth  of  the  city  has  produced  a  large 


o(i  THE  CITY  OF  WINNIPEG 

number  of  buildings  of  careless  and  unsubstantial  con- 
struction, and  many  of  these  which  were  erected  in  the 
earlier  days  when  Winnipeg  was  a  raw  frontier  town 
still  stand  side  by  side  with  and  in  striking  contrast  to 
the  well  built  modern  structures. 

In  spite  of  marked  disadvantages  of  situation  Winni- 
peg has,  in  the  course  of  twenty  years,  grown  from  a 
mere  village  into  a  large  and  prosperous  city,'  and  its 
prosperity  has  been  due  almost  entirely  to  the  energy  and 
enterprise  of  its  citizens,  who  at  an  early  date  resolved 
that  their  city  and  no  other  was  to  be  the  gateway  of  the 
west  and  the  distributing  point  and  financial  centre  of 
the  great  wheat  area  of  Western  Canada.  Doubtless 
the  excellent  climatic  conditions  of  Winnipeg  compensate 
largely  for  its  distance  from  navigable  waters  and  give  it 
a  distinct  advantage  over  its  great  prototype  Chicago. 
Scarcely  has  the  history  of  civilization  witnessed  a 
more  sudden  and  striking  metamorphosis  than  has 
taken  place  in  the  transformation  of  the  little  trading 
post  with  its  loop-holed  fort  into  a  modern  city  of  130,000 
people.  The  Winnipeg  of  to-day  .with  its  fine  buildings 
and  broad  avenues,  its  churches  and  colleges,  its  railways 
and  wholesale  houses,  is  but  a  promise  of  the  future 


INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA 

By  C.  F.  ROLAND,  Esq.,  Winnipeg. 

MANITOBA  as   an    industrial    centre     is    not    of 
course  at  all  comparable  with  the  great  manu- 
facturing districts  of  the  Old  World.     In  con- 
sidering the  Province  as  a  centre  of  industrial  activity, 
it  is  to  be  remembered  that  Western  Canada  is  the  new- 
est of  all  new  countries.     It  is  chiefly  agricultural  and 
its  native  resources  are  yet  scarcely  realized. 

Its  progress,  however,  in  industrial  matters  has  been 
remarkable.  It  has  developed  from  a  village  in  which 
the  manufacturing  industries  were  confined  to  the  mak- 
ing of  moccasins  by  Indian  squaws,  and  the  turning 
out  of  horseshoes,  wagon  bolts  and  harrow  teeth  by 
the  village  blacksmith,  into  the  fourth  city^in  all  Canada, 
as  estimated  by  the  value  of  its  manufactured  products. 
This,  in  1908,  was  estimated  at  about  $25,000,000. 

Winnipeg  is  the  greatest  wheat  market  in  the  British 
Empire.  Nearly  all  of  the  great  grain  crop  of  Western 
Canada,  which  in  1908  amounted  no  less  than  222,786,058 
bushels  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  flax  and  rye,  passes 
through  the  city.  For  many  years  all  the  manu- 
factured articles  used  in  Western  Canada  were  imported, 
but  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  home  industries 
are  now  beginning  to  be  realized.  Numerous  home 
industries  depend  to  a  large  extent  upon  mixed  farming, 
which  it  is  now  admitted  must  be  adopted  to  a  greater, 
extent  than  has  hitherto  been  the  case. 

Some  idea  of  the  progress  made  by  Manitoba  in  in- 
dustrial development,  may  be  gathered  from  recent 
census  returns: — The  census  in  Manitoba,  in  1881, 
showed  344  industrial  establishments,  great  and  small, 


58  INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA 

with  a  total  output  of  $3,413,026.  Ten  years  later 
there  were  1,031  establishments  with  a  total  output  of 
$10,155,182,  that  is  to  say,  that  there  had  been  an  in- 
crease of  200  per  cent,  in  ten  years.  In  1901,  the  census 
was  taken  on  a  different  basis,  only  establishments 
employing  five  or  more  hands  being  counted.  The 
1906  census  showed  that  the  ratio  of  increase  was  be- 
coming greater  with  each  year.  The  capital  invested 
has  more  than  trebled  in  five  years,  and  the  amount  of 
salaries  paid,  and  also  the  output,  have  more  than 
doubled. 

In  the  five  years  from  1901  to  1906,  Winnipeg  made 
the  enormous  increase  in  manufactured  products,  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  per  cent;  the  value  of  such 
goods  advanced  from  $8,616,218  to  $18,983,290.  For 
the  year  of  1907,  it  was  estimated  that  the  value  of 
goods  manufactured  in  the  City  of  Winnipeg,  amounted 
to  $22,000,000.  There  are  to-day,  one  hundred  and 
forty-eight  factories  and  work  shops,  and  no  less  than 
12,000  hands  directly  employed  in  these.  This  number 
does  not  include  the  army  of  men  employed  in  the 
municipal  departments  and  the  great  railway  yards 
of  the  city,  but  applies  only  to  those  engaged  in  actual 
making  of  goods  from  raw  material. 

The  results  of  the  last  Dominion  Census  published 
in  1906,  relating  to  the  number  of  manufacturing  firms 
in  Manitoba,  the  capital  invested,  the  nature  and  value 
of  goods  produced  and  the  amount  of  money  paid  out 
In  salaries  and  wages,  are  shown  in  the  following  table: — 


Salaries  Value  of 

Name  or  Kind  of  Industry.                        Capital.         and  Wages.  Product. 

Agricultural  implements  ..         $117,096        $28,516  $101,215 

Awnings,  tents  and  sails  ..           132,445          24,295  110,000 


INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA  59 

Blacksmithing    64,100  22,960  57,300 

Bread,  biscuits  and  confec- 
tionery   530,158  152,294  636,268 

Brick,  tile  and  pottery    .  .  .  459,590  203,681  477,119 

Butter  and  cheese    145,556  34,079  380,169 

Carriages  and  wagons    207,000  •       72,000  194,925 

Clothing,  men's,  custom  ..  152,850  80,193  194,511 

Clothing,  women's,  custom  33,400  39,205  128,016 

Electric  light  and  power  .  .  .  3,445,271  233,495  657,005 
Flouring    andn    grist    mill 

products     6,551,443  428,158  8,809,833 

Foundry  and  machine  shop 

products    1,118,177  325,180  1,153,424 

Harness  arid  saddlery    ....  496,045  132,577  371,500 

Hats,  caps  and  furs 191,027  48,883  171,174 

Jewelry  and  repairs 17,200  19,420  66,000 

Lime 413,900  229,807  372,478 

Liquors,  malt    1,085,000  128,014  843,829 

Log  products     2,631,525  399,159  1,517,447 

Lumber  products 1,927,741  452,181  1,245,447 

Monuments  and  tombstones  238,700  80,205  217,500 
Plumbing  and  tinsmithing .  774,400  242,004  912,764 
Printing  and  bookbinding  560,500  198,525  417,548 
Printing  and  publishing  .  .  971,408  478,133  1,170,170 
Pumps  and  Windmills  .  46,750  13,830  44,900 
Slaughtering  and  meat  pack- 
ing    928,965  201,420  2,336,000 

Slaughtering,  not  including 

meat  packing    493,001  51,298  660,983 

Stone,  cut    139,727  117,640  218,621 

Tobacco,  cigars  and  cigar- 
ettes   231,700  95,402  347,338 

All  other  industries* 3,202,612  1,104,006.  3,795,784 


Totals $27,307,287. $5,636,560  $27,609,268 

Industries  in  above  employ- 
ing less  than  5  hands  .  446,632        109,084          298,336 

Industries     employing;     5 

hands  and  over 26,860,655.   5,527,476    27,310,932 

*Includes  2  aerated  and  mineral  waters;  1  axle  grease;  1  bags,  cotton;  1  bak 
ing  powder  and  flavoring  extracts;  1  boats  and  canoes;  1  boxes,  wooden;  1  brass 
castings;  1  brooms  and  brushes;  2  car  repairs;  1  cement  blocks  and  tiles-  1  gas, 
lighting 


guUb  ,     J.     iltill  VV  UI  KS  ,     £       UlLCilUl        UCl«Ui  CH.1W14O  ,     ±     H-C11.11V1,        t,cm»l\,<-x      cvlni      llllionv_^i,     J. 

metallic  roofing  and  flooring;  1  mirrors  and  plate  glass;  1  miscellaneous;  1  oils; 
1  patent  medicines;  1  photography;  1  picture  frames;  1  pop  corn;  1  soap;  1 
stationary  goods;  2  wire  fencing;  1  woodworking  and  turning. 


60  INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA 

Among  the  more  important  work  shops  and  factories 
in  Winnipeg,  are  those  of  the  Canadian  Pacific,  the  Can- 
adian Northern  and  the  Grand  Trunk  railroads.  The 
Vulcan  Iron  Works,  the  Manitoba  Iron  Works,  the 
Western  Iron  Works,  the  Northern  Iron  Works,  and 
ten  smaller  machine  shops,  in  all  employing  more  than 
3.650  hands.  In  addition,  there  is  in  Winnipeg  an  iron 
rolling-mill,  turning  out  bar  and  rolled  iron,  and  five 
plants  are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  wire  fencing 
of  various  sorts — a  product  greatly  in  demand  through- 
out Western  Canada,  where  fencing  material  of  wood 
or  stone  is  scarce  and  the  stretches  of  land  that  require 
to  be  fenced  are  very  great.  There  are  also  four  fac- 
tories for  making  sheet  metal  cornices  and  galvanized 
iron  work;  seven  brick,  clay  and  cement  works;  two 
paint  factories;  two  shops  that  turn  out  stained  glass 
products;  nine  planing  mills,  which  manufacture  building 
materials  such  as  sashes  and  doors,  office  and  bank 
fittings;  one  plant  which  manufactures  plaster  for  hard- 
finishing  walls,  the  raw  material  being  native  gypsum. 

Five  factories  which  manufacture  ready-made  cloth- 
ing, employ  350  hands.  Fur  garments  are  also  largely 
made  in  Winnipeg.  Although  many  furs  are  dressed  in 
the  city,  the  majority  are  exported;  the  annual  out- 
put of  undressed  pelts  of  fur-bearing  animals  is  valued 
at  $350,000.  Most  of  these  are  gathered  by  the  em- 
ployees of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Other  important  industries  carried  on  in  Winnipeg, 
are  the  preparation  of  pickles  and  vinegar,  condiments, 
baking  powder,  bag  and  box  manufacture,  engraving, 
electro-plating,  brass-foundering,  soap  making,  cooper- 
ing, furniture  making.  In  the  province  there  are  also 
glass  works  and  the  fish  industry  of  Manitoba  is  of  great 
importance  (see  special  article  on  Fisheries,  by  Pro- 
fessor Prince).  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  larger  towns 


INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA  61 

poultry-rearing  and  market  gardening  form  important 
industries. 

We  must  not  neglect  to  mention  other  important 
manufacturing  towns  and  citie^  of  the  province.  In 
1901,  the  value  of  Brandon's  output  of  manufactures 
was  $541,327,  and  in  1906,  this  had  advanced  to  $2,007,- 
995,  while  Portage  la  Prairie  made  the  notable  increase, 
in  the  same  period,  from  $803,290  in  1901  to  $1,858,000 
in  1906.  Brandon,  the  second  city  in  size  in  Manitoba, 
has  numerous  wholesale  warehouses,  and  in  addition 
there  are  thirty  factories.  Among  the  products  of 
these  may  be  mentioned  gasoline  engines,  well-boring 
machinery,  fire  and  bar  fixtures,  sashes  and  doors, 
pumps  and  windmills,  harness,  tents  and  awnings,  cement 
blocks,  mattresses,  beer  and  ale,  boilers,  bricks,  wagons, 
cut  stone  and  monuments,  etc.  The  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  Company  maintains  divisional  repair  shops, 
employ  a  large  number  of  men,  ang  the  total  number 
employed  by  the  factories  exceeds  1,000.  '  The  city  of 
Brandon  also  possesses  a  crushing  plant  and  sewer-pipe 
works. 

At  Portage  la  Prairie,  the  chief  industries  within  the 
town  are  a  flour  mill,  an  oatmeal  mill,  a  wire  fence  fac- 
tory, a  brick  yard,  a  foundry  and  a  planing  mill..  This 
city  is  the  centre  of  a  very  important  wheat  growing 
district.  At  Carberry,  there  is  a  flour  mill  with  a  ca- 
pacity of  200  barrels  daily,  and  also  seven  elevators  that 
have  a  capacity  of  180,000  bushels  of  grain. 

At  Carman,  are  located  two  flour  milling  plants,  and 
at  Dauphin,  several  elevators  and  lumber  mills.  In 
Gladstone,  there  is  a  flour  mill  with  a  capacity  of  300 
barrels  daily  ;  at  Grandview,  a  large  saw-mill  and  sash 
and  door  factory. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Stonewall,  the  gardening  and 
poultry  industry  is  carried  on  to  some  extent  by  the 
German  farmers,  and  within  the  town  are  several  stone 


62  INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA 

quarries  with  a  combined  annual  output  valued  at  nearly 
$200,000. 

At  Rapid  City,  there  are  several  industries,  including 
a  woollen  mill,  grist  mill,  brick  yard  and  lime  kiln  works, 
besides  a  flour  mill  of  175  barrel  capacity. 

In  the  near  future,  thousands  of  miles  of  new  railways 
will  be  constructed  in  the  three  prairie  provinces  alone, 
new  towns  and  cities  are  being  established  almost  daily, 
and  large  tracts  of  country  are  rapidly  being  brought 
under  cultivation,.  Within  the  next  few  years,  there- 
fore, there  is  bound  to  be  an  enormous  demand  for  all 
kinds  of  railway  equipment,  for  every  variety  of  munici- 
pal plant,  for  agricultural  implements,  and  all  the  vast 
assortment  of  manufactured  goods  required  in  the  build- 
ing up  if  civilized  communities. 

At  present,  there  are  no  boot  and  shoe  factories  in 
Western  Canada,.  The  total  value  of  these  commodities 
sold  annually  in  the  WTest  amounts  to  $3,500,000,  and 
in  Winnipeg  alone,  the  annual  sales  of  leather  gloves  and 
mittens  amount,  it  is  stated,  to  about  $1,000,000.  In 
a  country  which  is  largely  engaged  in  stock-raising  and 
in  the  export  of  raw  hides  and  skins,  it  is  somewhat  re- 
markable that  there  are  no  tanneries,  and  that  leather 
goods  are  not  manufactured. 

Motor  cars  are  used  very  largely,  not  only  in  the  cities 
of  Western  Canada,  but  in  the  country.  The  first 
automobile  introduced  into  Winnipeg,  was  a  three- 
wheeled  Knox  car,  in  1901,  and  now  there  are  over  300  in 
the  city.  These  are  chiefly  of  United  States  manufac- 
ture. As  a  duty  of  35  per  cent,  is  charged  on  imported 
cars,  it  seems  obvious  that  these  might  be  profitably 
manufactured  in  Western  Canada. 

Other  industries  must,  sooner  ot  later,  be  introduced. 
For  example,  the  utilization  of  flax  fibre,  the  manufac- 
ture of  potato  starch,  the  growing  of  sugar-beets  and 
the  manufacture  of  alcohol,  are  all  obvious  possibilities. 


INDUSTRIAL  MANITOBA  63 

When  the  great  extent  of  Western  Canada  and  its 
rapid  development  are  considered,  it  must  be  apparent 
that  it  offers  an  unprecedented  market  for  the  products 
of  almost  every  conceivable  kind  of  manufacture. 

The  great  distance  from  large  manufacturing  centres 
involving  as  it  does  proportionately  great  freight  charges, 
and  the  high  duty  on  imported  manufactured  goods, 
will  compel,  ere  long,  the  foundation  of  a  large  number 
of  factories  to  supply  even  the  home  demand,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  possibilities  of  an  export  trade  in  certain 
branches.  Natural  resources  are  not  wanting  to  sup- 
ply the  necessary  raw  materials,  and  the  energy  and  ca- 
pacity of  the  citizens  of  the  West  ensure  the  successful 
establishment  and  development  of  numerous  home  in- 
dustries. 


AGRICULTURE   IN   MANITOBA 

Compiled  by  The  Hon.  R.  P.  ROBLIN,  Minister  of  Agriculture  of  the 
Province  of  Manitoba,  and  W.  J.  BLACK,  Esq.,  B.S.A., 

Princiral  of  Manitoba  Agriculture  College. 

With  the  assistance  of  J.  J.  Golden,  Esq.,  Deputy  Minister  cf  Agri- 
culture ;  G.  H.  Greig,  Live  Stock  Commissioner  ;  L.  A.  Bowes,  B.S.A.; 
Dr.  A.  W.  Bell,  and  Professors  J.  W.  Mitchell,  S.  A.  Bedford, 
F.  W.  Broderick  and  W.  Sproule. 

THE    territory   now   included    in    the    Province  of 
Manitoba,  is  essentially  agricultural  in  character. 
A  study  of  the    physical   features  of  the  country 
presents  many  peculiarities  indicating  its  fitness  for  the 
production  of  crops. 

Topographically,  the  Province  may  be  divided  into 
two  separate  plains  or  steppes.  The  first  of  these  ex- 
tends from  the  Eastern  boundary  westward  to  a  ridge 
known  in  different  regions  as  Pembina  Mountain,  Riding 
and  Duck  Mountains,  and  Porcupine  Hills.  This  plain 
was  originally  a  great  lake  which  gradually  receded  from 
its  former  shores  to  what  is  now  Lake  Winnipeg,  leaving 
Lake  Manitoba  and  a  few  smaller  bodies  of  water  as 
basins  for  the  drainage  from  the  old  lake  bed.  It  is  a 
fertile  stretch  with  a  marly  clay  sub-soil,  and  a  black 
alluvial  surface,  the  darkness  of  colour  being  due,  in  the 
opinion  of  Dr.  Dawson,  to  the  frequent  burning  of  grass. 
In  describing  Manitoba,  J.  Macoun,  Dominion  Geolo- 
gist, says:— "High  above  the  Pembina  Mountains  the 
steppes  and  plateaux  of  the  Riding  and  Duck  Mountains 
rise  in  well  defined  succession  with  southern  and  western 
steppes;  of  these  ranges  the  terraces  are  distinctly  de- 
fined, and  the  north-east  and  north  sides  present  a 
precipitous  escarpment  which  is  elevated  fully  1,000 
feet  above  Lake  Winnipegosis,  and  more  than  1,600 
feet  above  sea  level. ' ' 


IN  MANITOBA  65 

When  viewed  from  the  south  and  east  the  Riding 
Mountains  present  a  peculiar  aspect.  Close  to  the  ridge, 
the  surface  is  marshy  in  many  places,  but,  there  are 
visible,  three  distinct  steppes  separated  from  each  other 
by  plateaux  of  considerable  extent.  Standing  on  the 
edge  of  the  escarpment  and  looking  in  the  direction  of 
Lake  Dauphin,  a  gulf  two  or  three  miles  wide  and  250 
feet  deep,  are  to  be  seen  two  ranges  of  cone-shaped  hills, 
one  lower  than  the  other  and  covered  with  boulders. 
These  are  parallel  to  the  general  trend  of  the  escarp- 
ment. In  some  places,  they  are  lost  in  the  plateaux 
on  which  they  rest;  in  others  they  stand  out  as  bold 
eminences  showing  the  extent  of  the  denudation  which 
gave  rise  to  them.  These  conical  hills  correspond  to 
the  terraces  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  Mountains. 

Next  in  the  series  come  what  are  known  as  the  Duck 
Mountains,  a  high  range  of  tablelands  similar,  in  many 
respects  to  the  Riding  Mountains.  This  range  is  en- 
tirely cut  off  from  the  Porcupine  Hills,  by  the  Swan 
River,  which  flows  in  a  deep  valley  between  the  two 
ranges;  and,  on  the  west  from  the  Great  Western  prairie, 
by  the  Assiniboine  River.  Proceeding  eastwards,  these 
mountains  are  mostly  gently  rolling  elevations,  but,  in 
a  few  instances,  take  the  form  of  cone-shaped  hills. 
Where  not  covered  with  timber,  they  are  overgrown 
with  a  luxuriant  and  almost  impenetrable  growth  of 
peas  and  vetches.  From  the  north-eastern  side  of  the 
escarpment  Lake  Winnipegosis  is  plainly  visible  1,000 
feet  below.  Between  the  north-eastern  slope  of  the 
Duck  Mountains  and  Lake  Winnipegosis,  the  land  in 
some  places  is  wet  and  marshy,  and  will  require  drainage 
before  it  can  be  successfully  cultivated. 

The  northern  portion  of  the  Province,  east  of  the 
mountain  range,  is  covered,  to  a  large  extent,  with  wood 
timber.  The  wooded  area  commences  in  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  Province  and  continues  in  a  line 


(><>  AGRICULTURE 

running  north-west,  striking  first  the  southern  point 
of  Lake  Winnipeg,  then  cutting  Lake  Manitoba  about 
the  centre,  touching  the  Riding  Mountains  at  their  most 
southerly  point  and  following  north  along  the  western 
boundary  of  the  Duck  Mountains  and  Porcupine  Hills. 
North  of  this  line  the  prairie  is  wooded,  and  all  south  of 
it  is  bare,  with  but  slight  exceptions. 

Large  areas  of  the  north  centre,  between  Lakes  Win- 
nipeg and  Manitoba,  are  interspread  with  beaver  mead- 
ows, some  of  which  are  of  considerable  size,  reaching 
from  1,200  to  1,400  acres.  Midway  between  Lakes 
Winnipeg  and  Manitoba  nearly  all  the  creeks  have  been 
dammed  by  beavers  for  the  purpose  of  constructing 
their  abodes.  These  dams  have  been  found  to  make 
good  wagon  roads,  and  are  often  used  for  this  purpose 
by  settlers  and  others.  If  the  dams  were  cut  through 
the  meadows  would  be  naturally  drained.  Many  of 
these  are  already  dry  enough  to  make  good  hay  lands 
for  settlers. 

That  portion  of  Manitoba  known  as  the  Red  River 
Valley,  extends  from  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Prov- 
ince westward  to  the  Pembina  Mountains,  a  ridge  which, 
at  one  time,  formed  the  western  shore  line  of  the  great 
lake  already  referred  to.  The  summit  of  these  hills 
is  level  for  a  distance  of  about  five  miles,  till  the  foot 
of  another  terrace  is  reached.  The  summit  of  the  second 
terrace  is  level  with  the  Great  Buffalo  Plains,  that  stretch 
westward  beyond  the  Manitoba  boundary,  and  form  a 
fertile  tract,  once  the  hunting  ground  of  the  Indian, 
but  now  the  home  of  thousands  of  prosperous  farmers. 
Close  to  the  east  of  the  ridge  the  land  is  marshy,  and  this 
circumstance  has  in  some  instances  interfered  with  set- 
tlement. 

Much  of  the  central  and  northern  parts  of  Manitoba 
present  a  limestone  formation,  indicated  in  these  regions 
by  out-croppings  of  large  limestone  slabs.  There  are 


ix  MANITOBA  67 

also  large  belts  of  loose,  irregular  rocks,  which  are  often 
found  so  close  to  the  surface  as  to  constitute  a  serious 
hindrance  to  cultivation.  The  early  settlers  in  Mani- 
toba soon  found  that  the  land  was  admirably  suited  for 
the  purposes  of  agriculture.  In  the  Red  River  Valley, 
the  soil  close  to  the  river  was  found  to  contain  a  very 
high  percentage  of  fine  clay,  and,  although  heavy  to  cul- 
tivate, proved  to  be  very  fertile.  Passing  from  the  river 
on  either  side,  the  soil  was  found  to  be  more  friable.  In 
the  north  and  west  beyond  the  first  ridge,  the  plain,  in 
most  places,  consisted  of  a  sandy  or  light  clayey  loam, 
capable  of  cultivation  early  in  the  springtime  and  suit- 
able for  the  production  of  crops  in  a  minimum  amount  of 
time.  Although  this  region  was  more  northerly  than 
any  which  had  been  successfully  cultivated  in  North 
America,  it  was  found  to  be  eminently  productive. 
Manitoba  has  approximately  twenty-four  million  acres 
suitable  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  about  one- 
fifth  of  this  has  so  far  been  brought  under  cultivation. 
Owing  to  the  ease  with  which  the  prairie  land  can  be 
broken  and  cropped,  the  new  settler  very  quickly  makes 
a  home  for  himself,  and  often,  within  eighteen  months, 
has  a  surplus  of  grain  to  dispose  of.  A  hundred  years 
ago  the  territory  now  included  in  the  Province  of  Mani- 
toba was  the  home  of  thousands  of  buffalo.  Until  the 
advent  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  comparatively 
few  settlers  found  their  way  into  this  country.  Those 
who  came  had  no  inducement  to  grow  more  than  would 
supply  the  home  market. 

The  first  attempts  at  farming  in  the  Province  were 
made  by  the  Selkirk  settlers,  in  1816.  This  colony 
numbered  two  hundred  and  seventy  people,  who  were 
chiefly  Scotch,  sent  out  by  Lord  Selkirk,  but,  later,  the 
settlement  included  some  Irish,  French  and  Swiss. 
These  were  intended  to  colonize  the  one  hundred  and 
ten  thousand  square  miles  of  land  granted  to  Lord  Sel- 


68  •       AGRICULTURE 

kirk,  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Co.  Each  of  the  settlers 
bought  one  hundred  acres  for  which  he  agreed  to  pay 
one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  acre.  The  farms 
were  from  six  to  ten  chains  wide  and  ran  back  from  the 
river  front  about  two  miles,  and  were  hence  often  re- 
ferred to  as  '  'lanes. ' '  This  kind  of  subdivision,  however, 
had  its  advantages;  the  river,  which  was  the  principal 
highway,  was  close  to  all  settlers,  and  enabled  them  to 
secure  an  abundant  supply  of  water  and  fish.  This 
system  of  survey  also  made  the  settlement  more  com- 
pact, and  hence  was  safer  in  times  of  danger.  The 
settlers  congregated  around  Fort  Douglas,  sowed  in 
the  spring  of  1816  a  few  bushels  of  wheat  and  barley, 
and  planted  a  few  pecks  of  potatoes.  From  this  first 
crop  the  returns  were  excellent,  wheat  yielding  40,  bar- 
ley 50,  and  potatoes  100  fold.  The  grain  was  cut  with 
a  sickle  or  cradle  and  was  threshed  with  a  flail,  and  the 
' '  Quern ' '  or  hand  stone  was  used  to  crush  the  grain 
into  flour.  In  1817,  the  settlement  was  called  Kildonan, 
after  the  native  parish  of  the  Scotch  settlers.  From  1818 
to  1821,  the  crops  were  more  or  less  destroyed  by  grass- 
hoppers, and  in  1820,  there  was  no  seed  grain  whatever 
in  the  settlement.  In  February,  1821,  a  party  was  form- 
ed to  bring  250  bushels  of  wheat  from  Prairie  du  Cluen, 
in  the  United  States.  This  grain  cost  $2.50  a  bushel 
at  the  place  of  purchase,  but  yielded  well  in  the  fall  of 
1821,  and  was  all  kept  for  seed  the  next  year.  The  first 
importation  of  cattle  took  place  from  the  United  States, 
in  1822,  when  the  prices  paid  were  $150  for  a  milch  cow, 
and  $90  for  an  ox.  A  few  ploughs  were  in  use  in  1823, 
but  most  of  the  settlers  still  used  the  hoe  and  spade. 
About  this  time  the  two-horse  tread-mill  for  grinding 
wheat  was  introduced,  followed  later  by  a  Hudson  Bay 
windmill,  at  Fort  Douglas.  A  slight  check  was  given  to 
agriculture  by  the  flood  of  1826,  but  the  supply  of  grain 
soon  exceeded  the  demand,  and  a  large  stock  was  left 


IN  MANITOBA  69 

over  each  year.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  could 
purchase  only  eight  bushels  of  wheat  from  each  farmer, 
and  four  bushels  from  ' '  trip ' '  men,  the  price  paid  being 
87  cents  per  bushel.  The  settlers,  however,  were  able 
to  raise,  even  with  their  primitive  implements,  ten  times 
as  much  as  they  could  sell. 

In  1816,  Lord  Selkirk  endeavored  to  assist  the  set- 
tlers by  establishing  an  Experimental  Farm,  his  am- 
bition being  to  improve  the  breeds  of  cattle  and  horses, 
and  to  increase  the  yield  of  grain  and  dairy  products. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  also  started  an  Experi- 
mental Farm  about  1830,  near  Upper  Fort  Garry.  Good 
buildings  were  erected  and  animals  of  the  best  breeds 
were  imported,  among  them  being  a  fine  stallion  from 
England,  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,  and  also  a  number  of  mares. 
These  excellent  animals  greatly  improved  the  breed  of 
horses  in  the  settlement.  In  1832,  a  company  was 
formed  for  the  purpose  of  breeding  large  herds  of  cattle, 
for  the  sake  of  their  hides  and  tallow,  but  owing  to  bad 
management,  the  enterprise  failed.  A  few  years  later 
efforts  were  made  to  grow  flax  and  hemp  on  a  large 
scale,  but,  although  these  grew  well,  labor  was  too  scarce 
to  make  the  venture  profitable.  According  to  the 
census  of  1849,  the  live  stock  in  the  country  had 
increased  to  nearly  13,000,  and  over  6,000  acres  were 
under  cultivation.  After  the  first  Riel  rebellion,  settlers 
came  pouring  into  the  country  and  the  acreage  under 
cultivation  increased  rapidly.  It  is  difficult  at  this  dis- 
tance of  time  to  speak  positively  in  regard  to  the  first 
varieties  of  wheat  used  but  thirty-five  years  ago  there 
were  two  varieties  in  cultivation — an  early  stiff-bearded 
variety  not  very  productive,  and  a  beardless  kind  having 
a  hard  red  kernel,  rather  longer  than  Red'Fyfe,  and 
apparently  of  good  milling  value.  The  last  mentioned 
was  grown  on  the  Brandon  Experimental  Farm  for  some 
years  under  the  name  of  the  ' '  Old  Red  River  Wheat. ' ' 


70  AGRICULTURE 

About  1877,  the  Golden  Drop  Wheat  was  grown  exten- 
sively by  some  of  the  best  farmers.  This  was  a  very  fair 
wheat  but  somewhat  soft,  and  inclined  to  smut  badly. 
About  1880,  the  famous  Red  Fyfe  Wheat  was  intro- 
duced into  the  West,  a  variety  supposed  to  have  or- 
iginated on  the  Baltic  coast.  It  is  very  productive,  has 
a  healthy,  vigorous  plant,  the  berry  being  hard  and 
bright,  the  bran  thin,  and  the  gluten  contents  high, 
making  its  milling  qualities  unequalled.  This  variety 
has  done  more  to  keep  up  the  reputation  of  the  Province 
as  a  wheat-producing  country  than  any  other,  and  the 
greater  proportion  of  the  wheat  exported  is  of  this  sort. 

On  the  establishment  of  the  Dominion  Experimental 
Farm  in  this  Province,  in  1888,  an  effort  was  made  to 
introduce  new  varieties  of  early  ripening  wheat  for  sow- 
ing in  the  more  northern  parts  of  the  country.  The 
first  to  be  tested  was  imported  from  northern  Russia, 
and  was  called  Ladoga.  This  was  an  early  variety,  but 
the  quality  was  not  equal  to  the  requirements  of  the 
country.  Later,  Dr.  Wm.  Saunders,  Director  of  the 
Experimental  Farms,  introduced  several  cross-bred 
wheats,  such  as  the  Preston  and  Stanley.  These  have 
been  grown  with  more  or  less  success  in  the  less  favoured 
parts  of  the  country,  but  are  not  to  be  recommended 
in  preference  to  the  Red  Fyfe,  where  that  variety  can 
be  ripened  successfully. 

The  acreage  sown  with  barley  in  Manitoba  is  increasing 
very  rapidly.  Within  six  years  the  area  occupied  by 
this  useful  grain  has  doubled.  The  results  of  many  years ' 
experience  show  that  the  Chevalier  varieties  of  two- 
rowed  barley  have  not  succeeded  well.  The  ear  seldom 
fills  perfectly,  and  every  year  these  varieties  are  more 
or  less  lodged,  and  they  are  late  in  maturing.  The  two- 
rowed  sorts  of  the  Duck-Bill  type,  such  as  Canadian 
Thorpe,  are  much  stiffer  in  the  straw,  and  generally 
speaking,  the  heads  fill  well.  The  six-rowed  varieties 


IN  MANITOBA  71. 

are  those  best  adapted  for  general  cultivation.  They 
ripen  early  and  can  be  sown  later  than  other  grain, 
and  even  then  will  mature  early  enough  to  escape  injury 
from  autumn  frosts.  The  straw  is  nearly  always  stiff 
and  bright,  and  the  ears  well  filled.  Of  these  varieties 
the  Mensury  and  Odessa  are  excellent.  The  average 
yield  of  Mensury  barley  on  the  Brandon  Experimental 
Farm,  for  the  five  years  ending  1907,  was  63  bushels 
and  40  pounds  per  acre.  Odessa  gave  an  average  re- 
turn of  64  bushels  and  40  pounds  per  acre  for  the  same 
period. 

Barley  is  largely  grown  as  a  cleansing  crop.  The 
method  is  to  spread  barnyard  manure  on  the  stubble 
in  spring,  ploughing  it  under  and  sowing  about  the  end 
of  May.  This  practice  gives  a  good  crop  and  the  land 
is  left  comparatively  clean  and  ready  for  wheat  the 
following  year. 

The  yield  of  oats  is  usually  very  satisfactory  through- 
out the  Province,  when  proper  care  is  given  to  their 
production.  Although  not  so  important  as  wheat,  the 
sale  of  this  grain  for  oatmeal  and  feeding  purposes  is 
increasing  each  year,  and  the  price  obtained  is  higher 
than  in  former  years.  A  fairly  pure  and  clean  sample 
of  heavy  Manitoba  oats  is  looked  upon  with  much  favor 
by  oatmeal  millers  throughout  the  Dominion,  and  finds 
sale  at  remunerative  prices.  In  some  districts  of  this 
Province,  where  the  soil  is  better  adapted  for  oats  than 
for  wheat,  that  grain  is  grown  almost  exclusively.  By 
careful  selection  of  seed,  and  thorough  cultivation,  im- 
mense yields  are  obtained,  and  many  farmers  report  an 
average  of  eighty  bushels  per  acre  over  their  entire 
farms.  The  "Banner"  oat  has  been  the  favourite  for 
a  number  of  years.  This  is  a  thin,  hulled  sort,  of  ex- 
cellent quality,  and  very  productive.  Other  valuable 
varieties  are  ' '  Abundance, "  "  Ligowa ' '  and  ' '  New- 
market. ' '  These  are  all  white  oats,  and  sell  at  a  good 


72  AGRICULTURE 

figure  for  milling  purposes.  The  place  occupied  by  oats 
in  the  rotation  of  crops  is  usually  after  wheat  and  just 
previous  to  either  a  barley  crop  or  summer  fallow.  For 
this  reason  the  returns  per  acre  are  not  as  large  as  they 
otherwise  would  be.  On  the  Experimental  Farm  at 
Brandon,  on  summer  fallowed  land,  without  fertilizer, 
the  average  yield  of  "Banner"  oats  for  the  five  years 
ending  1907,  was  116  bushels  and  4  pounds  per  acre. 
This  is  an  indication  of  what  can  be  accomplished  on 
our  rich  soils  with  good  cultivation. 

In  the  newer  settlements  there  is  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  natural  hay  on  the  lower  lands  and  water  meadows. 
For  some  years,  this  supply  will  be  sufficient  for  all  de- 
mands. Later,  when  these  lands  are  drained  and  turned 
into  grain  fields,  the  farmer  will  be  compelled  to  look 
elsewhere  for  his  supply  of  hay. 

Fortunately  there  are  many  varieties  of  cultivated 
grasses  and  other  fodder  plants,  that  give  profitable 
yields  in  this  country.  The  most  popular  grass  is  ' '  Tim- 
othy;" this  excellent  grass  is  grown  most  extensively 
on  the  more  moist  soils  of  the  Province,  and  returns 
on  such  soils  are  exceedingly  good.  Where  "Timothy" 
fails  to  give  large  returns,  Western  Rye  grass  is  grown 
with  profit.  This  is  an  excellent  native  grass  and  is 
now  extensively  cultivated.  In  other  districts  where 
the  soil  is  light  ' '  Austrian  Brorne ' '  is  grown  with  good 
results.  Among  the  annual  fodder  plants  the  follow- 
ing are  cultivated  with  success: — German,  Japanese 
and  Common  Millet,  Broom,  Corn  and  Hungarian 
grass  ;  these  all  give  excellent  returns  of  useful  hay. 
Although  Indian  corn  is  not  grown  for  the  grain,  it  is 
a  decided  success  here  as  a  fodder  plant.  When  sown 
about  the  middle  of  May  it  grows  rapidly  during  our 
long  bright  days,  and  soon  reaches  a  height  of  from  8  to 
10  feet,  the  yield  often  amounting  to  from  15  to  20  tons 
of  green  fodder  per  acre.  This  is  either  made  into 


IN  MANITOBA  73 

ensilage  or  stocked  in  the  fields  until  required  for  feed- 
ing. Whether  used  as  fodder  or  ensilage  it  is  excellent 
for  fattening  cattle,  and  is  one  of  the  very  best  foods 
for  milch  cows. 

In  all  parts  of  the  Province  where  the  original  prairie 
sod  is  thick  and  tough,  it  is  customary  to  "break  and 
back-set,"  but  where  the  land  is  covered  with  small 
trees  and  scrub,  breaking  and  back-setting  is  not  neces- 
sary. The  breaking  of  new  prairie  is  best  accomplished 
with  the  hand  breaking  plough,  having  a  rolling  coulter, 
but  fairly  good  work  can  be  done  with  a  sulky  plough 
if  the  land  be  very  smooth  and  level.  For  the  best  re- 
sults the  breaking  should  be  shallow,  and  the  work  com- 
pleted by  July  1st.  A  few  weeks  after  breaking  the 
sod  will  be  rotted  and  the  land  should  then  be  "back- 
set. ' '  This  is  carried  out  by  ploughing  in  the  same 
direction  about  two  inches  deeper  then  previously,  there- 
by bringing  up  some  additional  soil  for  a  seed-bed. 
After  ' '  back-setting ' '  the  land  must  be  made  as  fine 
as  possible  with  a  disc-harrow  or  some  other  similar 
implement.  If  this  plan  be  adopted  only  a  light  har- 
rowing will  be  required  when  the  land  becomes  seeded 
in  the  following  spring.  In  some  parts  of  the  Province, 
the  land  is  too  rough  to  permit  of  thin  breaking.  In 
such  districts,  the  land  should  be  ploughed  from  4  to 
5  inches  deeper  than  in  the  smoother  lands,  and  as  early 
as  possible  in  the  year.  It  should  also  be  well  harrowed 
in  order  to  level  the  surface.  In  such  cases  a  second 
ploughing  is  not  necessary,  but  the  ground  must  be  again 
harrowed  the  following  spring,'  before  the  grain  is  sown. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  best  land  in  Manitoba 
is  covered  with  small  timber  and  scrub  which,  when 
cleared,  produces  magnificent  yields  of  all  kinds  of  farm 
produce,  and  the  work  of  clearing  is  very  light  when 
compared  with  that  of  preparing  the  heavy  timbered 
land  of  other  countries.  The  method  of  clearing  such 


74  AGRICULTURE 

lands  is  just  to  chop  out  the  larger  poplars  and  willows 
during  the  winter.  A  fire  is  then  run  over  the  land  in 
order  to  burn  the  remaining  portion  of  the  scrub.  After 
this  the  ground  may  easily  be  broken  with  a  strong 
brush  plough;  all  the  additional  levelling  can  be  accom- 
plished with  a  disc-harrow  or  other  similar  implement. 
The  land  is  then  ready  for  seeding,  and  usually  yields 
large  returns.  Immense  areas  of  this  class  of  land  are 
still  open  for  settlement,  principally  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  Province,  and  can  be  obtained  either  as  free 
homesteads  or  for  a  nominal  price. 

The  larger  proportion  of  the  wheat  crop  of  Manitoba 
is  grown  on  land  that  has  produced  a  grain  crop  of  some 
kind  the  previous  year.  The  stubble  land  is  ploughed 
in  the  autumn  as  early  as  possible ;  the  land  is  then  har- 
rowed and  sown  in  the  following  spring.  This  system 
is  very  inexpensive,  and,  when  the  land  is  new  and  the 
seasons  favourable,  the  profits  are  large  and  immediate. 
But  this  exhaustive  plan  cannot  be  retained  for  any  great 
length  of  time.  Sooner  or  later  a  regular  system  of 
rotation  has  to  be  adopted.  A  common  practice  is  to 
include  a  season's  summer  fallow  in  the  rotation,  and 
the  most  approved  plan  for  this  operation  is  to  plough 
the  grain  stubble  in  June,  just  as  soon  as  the  weed  seeds 
have  begun  to  germinate.  The  soil  is  then  ' '  compact- 
ed ' '  with  either  a  ' '  sub-surface  packer ' '  or  other  sim- 
ilar implement,  and  this  proceeding  is  followed  by  thor- 
ough surface  tillage  during  the  summer,  in  order  to  kill 
weeds  and  prevent  evaporation  of  soil  moisture. 

Summer  fallowing  is  practiced  in  Manitoba  by  most 
farmers,  its  frequency  depending  on  the  character  of  the 
soil  and  other  conditions.  Some  of  the  largest  and  best 
crops  of  wheat  are  obtained  after  this  treatment,  and 
the  condition  of  the  soil  is  greatly  improved  at  the  same 
time.  During  recent  years  the  more  advanced  farmers 
have  included  the  culture  of  grass  in  the  rotation.  The 


IN  MANITOBA  75 

usual  practice  is  to  sow  either  Timothy  or  Western  Rye 
grass  with  a  ' '  nurse  crop ; "  to  cut  it  for  hay  during  the 
two  following  seasons,  then  to  pasture  for  the  third. 
This  plan  furnishes  both  hay  and  pasture  for  the  farm, 
gives  the  land  certain  rest  and  so  fills  the  surface  with 
root  fibre  that  soil  drifting  is  prevented.  At  one  time 
it  was  thought  that  none  of  the  clovers  would  thrive 
in  Manitoba,  but,  by  practicing  improved  methods  of 
cultivation,  all  the  perennial  and  biennial  species  are 
found  to  be  just  as  hardy  and  productive  as  in  the  eastern 
provinces.  The  fact  that  these  leguminous  crops  can 
be  grown  suggests  great  possibilities  for  the  agriculture 
of  the  West.  To  prove  successful  on  the  majority  of 
farms  in  this  country,  clover  of  all  kinds  should  be  sown 
without  a  "nurse  crop"  of  grain,  although,  in  very 
favorable  seasons,  a  very  light  seeding  of  grain  may  be 
permissible  if  cut  early  for  green  feed.  In  growing  red 
clover  excellent  results  have  been  obtained  by  plough- 
ing grain  stubble  in  spring,  harrowing  once,  then  sowing 
about  12  pounds  of  clover  seed  per  acre,  harrowing  a 
second  time  and  rolling.  When  the  weeds  and  ' '  volun- 
teer crop ' '  of  grain  are  about  a  foot  high,  a  mower  should 
be  run  over  the  land  and  the  cuttings  left  on  the  ground 
to  act  as  a  mulch.  By  this  plan  the  clover  plants  be- 
come large  and  well  rooted  before  autumn,  and  there  is 
no  danger  of  winter  killing.  Two  cuttings  of  clover  can 
be  gathered  in  the  following  year. 

In  this  country  where  large  areas  of  land  are  cul- 
tivated, it  is  necessary  that  all  farm  operations  be  ex- 
pedited as  much  as  possible.  For  this  reason  the  most 
improved  machinery  is  on  use  on  all  the  up-to-date 
farms.  As  soon  as  the  grain  is  fairly  ripe,  large  grain- 
binders  are  set  to  work,  and  kept  constantly  in  opera- 
tion from  dawn  to  sunset.  Sometimes  a  score  of  these 
large  machines,  each  drawn  by  four  horses  are  found 
following  each  other  closely  around  one  immense  field.and 


76  AGRICULTURE 

in  a  few  days,  hundreds  of  acres  of  ripe  grain  are  safely 
in  the  stook.  The  grain  is  allowed  to  cure  for  a  few  days, 
after  which  large  threshing  outfits,  consisting  of  power- 
ful steam  traction  engines  and  separators,  are  brought 
into  the  field  where  the  threshing  is  done  directly  from 
the  stook,  and  so  quickly  that  only  a  few  days  intervene 
between  the  ripening  of  the  grain  and  its  delivery  on 
the  market.  At  the  present  time  the  prospects  for  agri- 
culture in  the  Province  are  bright;  the  prices  of  farm 
products  are  high,  the  area  under  cultivation. is  increasing 
rapidly,  and  the  employment  of  improved  conditions 
of  agriculture  should  result  in  larger  returns  than  in 
former  years. 

THE  LIVE  STOCK  INDUSTRY 
OF  MANITOBA 

In  the  early  days  of  the  settlement  of  Manitoba,  Live 
Stock  was  considered  the  mainstay  of  agriculture,  for 
some  little  time  was  necessary  to  enable  the  settlers  to 
discover  the  possibilities  of  soil  and  climate  for  the 
production  of  wheat.  Many  of  the  early  pioneers  brought 
with  them  a  foundation  stock,  and  in  not  a  few  of  the 
best  studs  and  herds  of  to-day  can  be  traced  a  descent 
from  those  early  importations.  Needless  to  say,  the 
stock  imported  from  the  older  provinces  thrived  won- 
derfully on  the  nutritious  prairie  grasses,  which  for 
many  generations  had  sustained  vast  herds  of  buffalo. 
The  pioneer  delights  to  recall  the  big  steers  he  produced 
when  the  herds  fed  on  the  short  sweet  upland  pastures 
or  revelled  belly-deep  in  vetches  and  wild  pea-vine. 
An  opening  having  been  made  for  the  export  of  wheat 
by  the  completion  of  the  railroad  between  the  prairies 
and  the  lake  ports,  the  wealth-producing  possibilities 
of  grain  growing  were  quickly  recognized.  It  happened 


IN  MANITOBA  77 

that  the  open  prairie  was  easily  brought  under  cultiva- 
tion. No  expensive  equipment  was  required,  an  easy 
credit  system  prevailed,  wonderful  returns  were  ob- 
tained, and  settlement  rapidly  increased.  As  a  result 
the  live  stock  interests  were  neglected,  and  wheat  be- 
came the  one  thing  considered  worthy  of  attention. 

Many  a  traveller  has  marvelled  at  the  myriad  beacon 
fires  that  illuminate  the  autumn  sky  from  the  far-reach- 
ing stubble  fields,  where  the  straw  piles  are  burned  as 
soon  as  the  threshers  have  completed  their  task.  This 
improvident  waste,  coupled  with  careless  methods  en- 
couraging the  introduction  and  spread  of  weeds,  is 
causing  the  pendulum  to  swing  slowly  back  again.  In 
order  to  improve  the  mechanical  condition  of  the  soil, 
to  restore  exhausted  fertility,  and  to  control  noxious 
weeds,  grasses  and  clovers  are  being  introduced,  farms 
are  being  fenced  and  the  rearing  of  live  stock  is  again 
receiving  serious  attention. 

The  following  figures,  taken  from  Government  statis- 
tics will  give  some  idea  of  the  growth  of  the  live-stock 
industry : — 

Year  Horses  Cattle  Sheep  Swine 

1881  16739  60281  6073  17358 

1891  86735  230696  35838  54177 

1901  163867  349886  29464  126459 

1907  215819  521112  28975  200509 

1908  230926  531544  29265  192489 

The  demand  for  horses  is  still  greater  than  the  local 
supply.  For  a  number  of  years,  horses  have  been  ship- 
ped into  Manitoba  from  the  Eastern  provinces,  the 
Western  ranges,  and  from  the  States  to  the  South. 
During  the  past  year,  however,  Manitoba-bred  horses, 
mostly  for  farm  purposes,  are  beginning  to  appear  in 
considerable  numbers  on  the  Winnipeg  market.  The 


78  AGRICULTURE 

keen  demand  which  exists,  and  the  good  prices  obtainable, 
are  stimulating  the  breeding  of  horses.  In  addition  to 
several  breeding  studs  which  have  been  established, 
many  farmers  are  procuring  good  brood-mares,  not  a 
few  of  which  are  registered  mares  of  the  draft  breeds. 
For  many  years  a  considerable  business  in  the  importa- 
tion of  stallions  has  been  carried  on.  Importers  from 
the  United  States  have  not  only  brought  with  them 
American-bred  stallions,  but  have  also  introduced  their 
methods  of  disposing  of  these.  One  of  the  methods 
referred  to  is  commonly  known  as  ' '  syndicating. ' '  Ten 
or  a  dozen  farmers  are  induced  to  take  shares  in  a  stal- 
lion, signing  joint  notes  therefore.  In  many  of  these 
cases,  ths  stallion  so  dispDsed  of  is  stated  to  be  worth 
from  $2,000  to  $4,000,  which  is  generally  three  or  four 
times  its  actual  value.  The  notes  are  of  course  dis- 
counted before  maturity,  and  the  salesmen  decamp. 
Such  practices  have  done  much  injury  to  the  horse- 
breeding  industry  but  happily  they  are  now  almost  a  thing 
of  the  past.  Several  large  dealers,  permanently  es- 
tablished in  the  West,  import  direct  from  Great  Britain, 
and  Ontario  dealers  may  now  be  expected  to  take  greater 
interest  in  supplying  Manitoba  with  good  home-bred 
and  imported  stock  horses. 

Legislation  has  been  introduced  by  the  Western 
Provinces  to  encourage  horse-breeding.  The  object  of 
such  legislation  is  educational,  and  the  intention  is 
to  encourage  the  use  of  sound,  pure-bred  stallions,  and 
to  eliminate  the  unfit.  Owners  are  compelled,  under  a 
penalty,  to  register  stallions  with  the  Provincial  De- 
partments of  Agriculture;  certificates  are  then  issued 
stating  whether  the  animal  is  pure-bred,  or  graded, 
soundness,  or  the  reverse,  also  being  indicated.  A  copy 
of  this  certificate  must  then  be  printed  on  all  advertise- 
ments and  route-bills,  which  must  be  conspicuously 
posted  on  the  door  of  every  stable  occupied  by  the  horse 


ix  MANITOBA  79 

during  the  breeding  season.  By  this  means  the  farmer 
is  enabled  to  know  the  breeding  value  of  the  stallions 
he  employs. 

The  draft  breeds  are  undoubtedly  the  most  popular 
with  the  farmers,  and  of  these,  the  Clydesdales, take  first 
place.  A  few  Shires  have  been  introduced,  and,  during 
the  past  few  years,  a  good  many  Percherons.  The 
latter  would  appear  to  be  slowly  gaining  in  popularity. 
As  there  are,  however,  many  registered  Clydesdale 
mares  throughout  the  country,  and  in  nearly  every 
section,  a  good  representative  Clydesdale  stallion,  this 
breed  is  likely  to  hold  its  own  for  a  long  time  to  come. 
Of  the  horses  bred  on  the  average  farm,  few  would  scale 
up  to  the  "draft"  class,  the  majority  having  to  be 
classed  as  "agricultural"  horses,  weighing  less  than 
1,600  Ibs.,  while  there  are  many  horses  bred  from  small 
nondescript  mares  that  could  only  be  classified  as  ' '  farm 
chunks,"  a  useful  enough  horse  on  the  farm,  although 
lacking  in  weight,  but  hardy,  and  generally  with  good 
wearing  qualities. 

Of  the  lighter  breeds,  comparatively  few  are  bred, 
although  there  are  many  American  trotting  stallions 
in  the  country  and  some  excellent  road  horses  are  pro- 
duced. •  These  are  always  in  good  demand,  provided 
they  possess  sufficient  size  and  quality.  Thorough- 
breds, Hackneys  and  some  of  the  Coach  breeds  have 
been  introduced  in  various  parts  of  the  Province  but, 
so  far  with  little  marked  effect  upon  the  horse  industry. 
Some  saddle  and  heavy  leather  horses  are  produced, 
but  most  of  these  crosses  are  what  may  be  called  ' '  Gen- 
eral Purposes"  horses.  This  is  a  good,  useful  class, 
fit  for  all  kinds  of  light  farm  work  and  for  certain  kinds 
of  road  work,  but  it  will  not  command  high  prices  in 
the  market. 

The  country  on  the  whole  is  well  suited  for  horse 
breeding.  The  climate  is  healthy,  and  feed  of  good 


80  AGRICULTURE 

quality  is  abundant.  There  are,  however,  some  dif- 
ficulties to  contend  with.  The  most  serious  of  these 
is,  perhaps,  the  mortality  among  foals,  from  the  disease 
known  as  "joint  ill, ' '  and  other  little  understood  patho- 
logical conditions,  which  are  attributed  to  insufficient 
exercise  on  the  part  of  the  mares  during  the  long  idle 
winter  season.  Another  disease,  which  is  confined  to 
the  lower-lying  districts  of  the  Province,  is  commonly 
known  as  "swamp  fever,"  an  intermittent  fever  of  a 
low  type,  not  as  yet  thoroughly  understood. 

The  cattle  industry  has  advanced  with  the  settling 
of  the  country,  and,  with  improved  market  and  trans- 
portation facilities,  will  doubtless  become  one  of  the 
most  important  branches  of  agriculture. 

Manitoba  cattle  are  of  a  healthy  breed,  and  cost  little 
to  keep,  for  there  is  everywhere  an  abundance  of  suit- 
able fodder.  On  the  smaller  farms  (and  most  of  those 
in  the  extreme  eastern  and  north-eastern  portions  of 
the  Province,  come  under  this  category)  cattle  of  the 
dairy  type  predominate.  By  this  it  is  not  meant  that 
the  special  dairy  breeds  are  exclusively  used,  as  most 
of  the  cattle  in  these  sections,  as  well  as  throughout 
the  province,  show  more  or  less  of  Shorthorn  strain. 

The  little  Red  River  cow  of  earlier  days,  rugged, 
vigorous,  big  middled,  short-legged,  crumple-horned, 
line-backed  or  brindled.,  has  almost  entirely  disappeared. 
The  foundations  of  several  herds  of  Shorthorns  were 
laid  in  the  early  eighties,  and  the  progeny  of  these,  and 
of  many  subsequently  established,  have  been  widely 
distributed  throughout  the  country.  The  blood  of 
this  cosmopolitan  breed  now  flows  in  the  veins  of  nearly 
all  our  cattle.  Other  breeds  have  been  introduced, 
but  still  the  Red,  White  and  Roan  numerically  holds 
supremacy,  and  at  all  leading  Exhibitions  outnumbers 
other  breeds  in  the  proportion  of  two  to  one.  There 
are  now  in  Manitoba  over  350  members  of  the  Dominion 


IN  MANITOBA  81 

Shorthorn  Breeders'  Association,  and  their  favourite 
breed  of  cattle  seems  in  no  immediate  danger  of  losing 
in  popularity.  Breeders  should,  however,  endeavor 
to  revive  the  milking  qualities  of  the  breed  in  order  that 
it  may  continue  to  hold  the  position  of  ' '  Farmers'  cow. ' ' 

Of  the  special  "beef  breeds,"  the  Hereford  and  the 
Aberdeen  Angus  are  fairly  well  represented,  and  a  num- 
ber of  good  breeding  herds  exist.  Where  the  calves 
run  with  their  dams,  and  beef-production  only  is  de- 
sired, either  of  these  breeds,  or  the  Galloway,  thrive 
abundantly.  They  are  good  grazers  and  feeders  and 
mature  heavy,  compact  carcases  of  beef  of  the  best 
quality.  The  females,  however,  are  not  so  useful  as 
' '  Farmers '  cows, ' '  since  they  are  not  such  good  average 
milkers  nor  as  docile  as  the  Shorthorn. 

Of  the  dairy  breeds,  the  Holsteins  seem  to  be  steadily 
gaining  in  favour.  They  are  robust  and  large-framed, 
with  great  capacity  for  the  assimilation  of  ' '  roughage, ' ' 
and  produce  immense  quantities  of  milk  of  fairly  good 
quality.  There  are  several  excellent  pure-bred  herds 
in  the  Province.  The  Ayrshire  and  the  Jersey,  have 
their  fanciers,  and  small  herds  have  been  in  existence 
for  a  good  many  years.  The  last  named  breed  has  made 
no  headway,  but  the  first  is  numerously  represented 
in  the  dairy  districts,  and  vigorously  contests  every  inch 
of  ground  with  her  big  black-and-white  sister. 

Year  by  year,  furrow  by  furrow,  wheat  has  crowded 
back  the  herd  from  the  sweet  grasses  of  the  upland 
prairies  on  to  the  lower-lying  natter  lands,  where  tb' 
grasses  grow  coarse,  sedgy,  and  less  nutritious.     Un'' 
such  circumstances,  cattle  have  suffered  some  deter/ 
tion,  but  with  the  introduction  of  more  "inten? 
methods,  including  the  growing  of  corn,  clover  a/ 
falfa,  with  greater  attention  to  sanitation  of 
and  the  adoption  of  less  laborious  methods  oi 
for  stock,  better  results  will  accrue  to  the  p/ 


82  AGRICULTURE 

There  are  already  indications  that  cattle-feeding,  will 
be  carried  on  more  extensively  in  this  Province.  The 
straw  and  chaff  and  screenings  of  the  wheat  farms  will 
' '  be  marketed  on  the  hoof ' '  and  the  manure  thus  created 
will  restore  the  fertility  and  improve  the  mechanical 
condition  of  the  soil,  resulting  in  better  yields  of  superior 
quality,  and  hastening  the  maturing  of  the  crops.  As 
in  the  corn  belt  of  the  States,  the  cattle  from  the  ranges 
of  the  West  will  be  ' '  finished ' '  on  their  way  to  the 
world's  markets,  on  the  wheat  farms  of  Manitoba  and 
Saskatchewan. 

It  is  sometimes  said  that  swine-breeding  on  any  ex- 
tensive scale  cannot  be  profitably  carried  on  except  in 
conjunction  with  dairying,  or  under  such  conditions 
as  exist  in  the  corn  States  to  the  South.  To  a  certain 
extent,  that  is  true.  Every  farmer  can,  however,  at 
a  minimum  expense,  even  without  milk,  produce  a  few 
hogs  on  by-products  that  would  otherwise  be  wasted. 
It  is  necessary,  however,  to  raise  the  hog  in  a  cheap  way, 
making  him  utilize  pasture  grass,  rape,  roots  and  ' '  rough- 
age,"  and  then  finish  quickly  on  "concentrates."  At 
the  present  time  there  is  not  sufficient  pork  produced 
in  the  West  to  supply  the  local  demand,  but,  as  previous- 
ly indicated,  the  market  conditions  are  not  such  as  to 
encourage  the  industry.  The  demand  being  for  light, 
mild-cured  bacon  and  hams,  the  bacon  type  of  hog  is 
preferred  to  the  lard  type,  consequently  the  two  great 
bacon  breeds,  the  Yorkshires  and  Berkshires,  have 
virtually  taken  possession  of  the  trade.  A  few  Tam- 
worths  are  also  bred,  and  their  impress  may  be  noticed 
in  the  Stock  Yards.  One  or  two  small  herds  of  Chester 
Whites  and  Poland  Chinas  are  also  maintained  in  the 
Province,  but  they  are  not  kept  in  sufficient  numbers 
to  affect  the  general  type  of  the  market  hog. 

Sheep-breeding  in  the  Province  has  been  losing  ground 
for  the  past  fifteen  years.     This  is  not  due  to  unsuitable 


ix  MANITOBA  83 

conditions  of  climate,  for  sheep  thrive  remarkably  well 
in  this  clear,  dry  atmosphere.  Neither  is  this  condition 
of  the  industry  attributable  to  unfavourable  markets, 
for  prices  for  lambs  and  mutton — sheep  of  any  kind — 
rule  high.  The  market  is  supplied  from  the  ranges  of 
the  West,  from  Ontario,  and  the  Maritime  Provinces, 
and  even  frozen  mutton  from  Australia  has  found  its 
way  into  the  Winnipeg  market.  The  one  great  enemy 
of  the  shepherd  in  the  West  is  the  coyote  or  prairie 
wolf.  While  governments  and  municipalities  offer 
bonuses  for  wolf  scalps,  the  breeding  grounds  of  the 
wolves  are  so  extensive,  stretching  as  they  do  into  the 
Northern  wilds,  that  the  only  immediate  remedy  against 
their  depredations  would  seem  to  be  the  protection  of 
the  flocks  by  means  of  fences.  Provision  of  this  nature 
will  undoubtedly  be  provided  ere  long  by  many  farmers. 
Flocks  of  many  of  the  leading  breeds  have  been  es- 
tablished. Any  of  the  medium  wooled  breeds  are  suit- 
able. The  Shropshires  and  the  Oxfords  have  proved 
popular  and  useful,  especially  for  "grading  up"  the 
common  merino-grade  range  ewe.  Leicesters  are  also 
strong  favourites  and  have  made  conspicuously  good 
exhibits  at  our  leading  exhibitions. 

Early  in  the  live-stock  history  of  the  province,  active 
Associations  were  organized,  and  through  the  agency 
of  these,  public  interest  has  been  stimulated  in  the  im- 
portant work  of  live-stock  improvement.  Valuable 
concessions  in  regard  to  freight  rates  for  pure-bred  stock 
have  been  obtained  from  Railroad  Companies.  Ex- 
hibition Associations  have  been  induced  to  employ  more 
efficient  judges  and  to  provide  larger  prizes  and  more 
adequate  accommodation  for  live-stock.  Provincial  auc- 
tion sales  of  pure-bred  stock  have  been  inaugurated,  and 
farmers  have  thus  been  enabled  to  select  bulls  for  breed- 
ing purposes,  from  among  the  consignments  of  many 
breeders. 


84  AGRICULTURE 

Within  the  last  year  or  so  a  very  successful  Winter 
Fair,  Horse  Show  and  Fat  Stock  Show  has  been  es- 
tablished at  Brandon,  under  the  auspices  of  these  as- 
sociations, where  practical  demonstrations  in  live  stock 
judging  are  given  and  lectures  delivered  on  various 
phases  of  the  industry. 

DAIRY  INDUSTRY  IN  MANITOBA 

Careful  consideration  of  the  past  and  present  con- 
ditions of  the  Dairy  Industry  in  Manitoba,  justify  a 
feeling  of  optimism  as  to  its  future.  Although  this 
industry  is  still  in  its  infancy,  it  has  made  steady 
progress  as  a  reference  to  the  following  table  will  show : 

Average  annual  yield  and  value  of  butter  and  cheese 
by  five-year  periods. 


Periods 

BUTTER 

CHEESK 

Total 
Value 

Pounds 

Value 

Av.  price 

Pounds 

Value 

Av.  price 

1896-1WO 
19;>l-190i 
1906-19J7 

2.690,923 
4,301.173 

5,533,769 

$  377.9R4.73 
$  722,336.78 
il,  115.543.38 

14  cts. 
16.8 
20.1 

928,587 
1,277,772 
1,455,020 

$  84,290.60 
$  117,267  44 
$  182,120,85 

9  cts. 
9.1 
12.5 

$  462,255 
$  839,i'03 
$  1,297,664 

While  this  table  fairly  represents  the  growth  of  the 
industry,  it  does  not  indicate  either  its  magnitude  or 
its  value  to  the  Province,  since  it  does  not  take  into 
account  the  town  and  city  milk  and  cream  supply  and 
the  ' '  by-products ' '  fed  at  the  farm.  When  it  is  remem- 
bered that  the  town  and  city  population  constitutes 
somewhat  more  than  fifty  per  cent,  of  that  of  the  Prov- 
ince, it  is  readily  seen  that  there  is  a  large  quantity  of 
milk  and  cream  consumed  as  such.  The  columns  of 
average  prices,  given  in  the  foregoing  table,  are  quite 
as  worthy  of  note  as  those  indicating  the  growth  of 


IN  MANITOBA  85 

the  industry,  since  they  point  to  the  growing  demand  for 
dairy  products  at  increasingly  remunerative  prices. 

Our  native  and  cultivated  grasses  are  both  suitable 
for  the  production  of  a  fine  quality  of  milk,  suitable 
for  the  making  of  excellent  butter  or  cheese.  We  can 
grow  in  abundance,  suitable- soiling  crops  for  supple- 
menting the  pastures  when  necessary,  such  as 
peas  and  oats,  alfalfa  (in  many  parts  of  the  province) 
and  corn.  Furthermore,  we  can  successfully  grow  such 
crops  as  mixed  hay  (clover  and  timothy),  brome  grass, 
alfalfa,  corn,  roots,  and  the  coarser  grains  for  fall  and 
winter  feeding.  With  the  right  kind  of  cows,  properly 
cared  for,  no  trouble  is  experienced  in  the  production 
of  milk  economically  and  in  quantity. 

The  beef  breeds  of  cattle,  particularly  Shorthorns, 
predominate  in  the  Province.  These  were  introduced 
in  the  early  days  when  every  farmer  was  surrounded 
with  all  the  grazing  land  he  desired.  Later,  as  the  coun- 
try became  more  generally  cultivated,  dairying  was 
combined  with  beef  production,  and,  as  a  result,  par- 
ticularly amongst  the  Shorthorns  and  Shorthorn  grades 
and  crosses,  many  very  creditable  and  even  excellent 
general  or  "dual-purpose"  cows,  whose  milking  quali- 
ties have  been  developed  by  careful  selection.  In  ad- 
dition to  these  there  are,  in  the  Province,  several  ex- 
cellent pure-bred  herds,  representative  of  the  Holstein, 
Ayrshire  and  other  dairy  breeds.  The  Holsteins  prob- 
ably being,  at  least  in  so  far  as  numbers  go,  in  the  as- 
cendency. Many  good  dairy  grades  are  also  to  be  met 
with. 

A  very  considerable  portion  of  the  Province,  par- 
ticularly in  the  east  and  north,  is  much  more  suitable 
for  mixed  farming  than  for  grain  growing.  Even  the 
present  grain  districts  cannot  sustain  indefinitely  the 
continued  impoverishment  resulting  from  the  con- 
tinual production  of  grain  crops.  Continuous  grain- 


86  AGRICULTURE 

growing  has  additional  bad  result  of  increasing  the  num- 
ber of  weeds.  To  restore  and  maintain  soil  fertility, 
and  to  eradicate  weeds,  the  adoption  of  a  suitable  ro- 
tation of  crops  is  imperative.  Along  with  this  would 
naturally  be  introduced  a  certain  amount  of  stock- 
rearing.  Thus  dairying  would  in  due  course  occupy 
a  prominent  part  in  any  thoroughly  satisfactory  scheme 
of  farming.  The  present  conditions  of  the  dairy  market 
are  encouraging,  the  home  market  especially  is  rapidly 
developing. 

One  feature  of  the  Manitoba  dairy  industry  is  the  ex- 
tent to  which  the  manufacture  of  butter  and  cheese 
has  become  co-operative.  Although  the  Province  is 
yet  sparsely  populated,  fully  fifty  per  cent,  of  the  butter 
and  cheese  put  upon  the  market  is  made  in  factories. 

There  are  in  the  Province  about  forty  cheese  factories, 
situated  in  the  more  thickly  settled  districts.  But  there 
is  greater  scope  for  butter-making  and  cream  gathering. 

There  is  at  the  present  time,  a  marked  tendency 
towards  the  centralization  of  the  creamery  industry. 
This  is  encouraged  by  the  co-operation  of  the  Express 
Companies,  who  give  reduced  rates  on  cream  for  butter- 
making  purposes.  This  system  has  its  advantages,  and 
its  disadvantages.  Among  the  former  are  a  larger  out- 
put, better  equipment  and  a  more  economical  produc- 
tion: while  among  the  latter  may  be  mentioned  a  lack 
of  interest  on  the  part  of  the  producer  in  the  scientific 
work  of  the  creameries. 

HORTICULTURE  IN  WESTERN  CANADA 

In  considering  the  agricultural  possibilities  of  the 
Province  of  Manitoba,  the  subject  of  horticulture  is 
too  frequently  overlooked  or  given  scant  consideration. 
The  fact  that  cereals  can  be  grown  with  splendid  suc- 
cess has  been  very  clearly  demonstrated,  but  up  to  the 


";£->  IN  MANITOBA  87 

present  time  comparatively  few  of  the  people  residing 
in  Western  Canada,  have  had  sufficient  confidence  in 
the  fruit-growing  possibilities  of  the  country  to  enter 
into  the  industry  on  a  very  extensive  scale.  However, 
a  few  pioneers  have  paved  the  way  and  to  the  results 
of  their  work  we  look  for  encouragement  and  guidance. 
In  a  country  of  such  rich  agricultural  resources  as 
Manitoba,  where  excellent  crops  of  cereals  can  be  pro- 
duced on  an  extensive  scale  with  a  minimum  amount  of 
labor,  one  would  naturally  expect  that  the  people  would 
turn  rather  slowly  to  the  production  of  fruits  which  re- 
quire much  greater  care  and  a  much  more  ' '  intensive ' ' 
system  of  cultivation.  The  growing  of  this  finer  class 
of  agricultural  products  is  usually  delayed  until  the 
country  has  become  thickly  populated  and  the  land  has 
been  brought  into  a  fairly  good  state  of  cultivation. 
Making  an  allowance  for  the  difficulties  which  have  to 
be  overcome  in  the  production  of  fruits,  some  splendid 
work  has  been  done  and  substantial  progress  made. 
Attempts  in  fruit  growing  have  been  made  since  the 
first  settlement  of  the  country.  The  first  experimenters 
were  greatly  handicapped  by  a  lack  of  information  re- 
garding the  suitability  of  the  country,  and  many  mis-- 
takes were  made.  The  introduction  of  tender  varieties 
was  attended  with  failure,  and  it  was  only  at  consider- 
able personal  expense  that  the  early  growers  learned 
that  only  the  hardiest  fruits  obtainable  were  suited 
to  this  rigorous  climate.  Since  this  lesson  has  been 
learned  steady  progress  has  been  made.  Experiences 
have  resulted  in  great  efforts  to  secure  hardy  varieties 
of  apples,  plums,  cherries  and  other  fruits  from  countries 
where  the  climatic  conditions  are  similar  to  those  of 
Manitoba.  The  Experimental  Farms  have  given  splen- 
did assistance  in  this  work  and  have  been  instrumental 
in  introducing  some  fruits  that  undoubtedly  will  be  of 
great  value  in  future  years. 


88  AGRICULTURE 

Among  the  valuable  introductions  is  the  Pyrus  Bac- 
cata  or  Siberian  Crab  Apple,  which  was  first  planted  on 
the  Experimental  Farm  at  Brandon,  in  the  year  1890, 
the  trees  having  been  grown  at  the  Central  Experimen- 
tal Farm,  Ottawa,  from  specially  selected  seed  that  had 
been  imported  from  Russia.  The  introduction  of  this 
hardy  Russian  apple  has  done  much  for  the  advance- 
ment of  apple  growing  in  Manitoba.  It  furnishes  a 
hardy  stock  on  which  the  tenderer  standard  varieties 
may  be  grafted  and  their  hardiness  very  much  increased. 
Dr.  Saunders,  Director  of  the  Central  Experimental 
Farm,  Ottawa,  has  also  endeavoured  to  increase  the 
hardiness  of  some  of  the  standard  varieties  by  hybrid- 
izing them  with  the  Pyrus  Bacata.  Several  promising 
hybrids  have  been  produced  in  this  way  and  are  now 
being  grown  to  some  extent  in  the  Province. 

Among  the  earliest  attempts  in  fruit  growing  in  the 
district  of  Winnipeg,  may  be  mentioned  those  of  the 
late  Mr.  W.  B.  Hall,  of  Headingly.  In  the  early  sixties 
some  not  unsuccessful  experiments  were  conducted  by 
him  with  currants,  tomatoes,  gooseberries,  Siberian 
crab  apples  and  rhubarb.  The  results  were  indeed  so 
satisfactory  that  he  and  others  in  the  neighborhood  were 
induced  to  carry  on  fruit  growing  on  a  large  scale.  Among 
other  pioneers  whose  experiments  on  fruit  growing  have 
been  of  value,  may  be  mentioned  the  late  Mr.  Thomas 
Frankland,  of  Stonewall,  and  Mr.  A.  P.Stevenson,  of 
Dunstan.  Mr.  Stevenson  has  experimented  very  largely 
with  plums,  cherries,  grapes,  gooseberries,  currants,  rasp- 
berries and  strawberries,  and  his  untiring  efforts  in  this 
direction  have  been  a  great  incentive  to  others  within 
the  province  to  interest  themselves  in  the  growing  of 
fruits.  His  work,  together  with  the  work  that  has  been 
done  on  the  Experimental  Farms,  has  demonstrated 
very  clearly  that  hardiness  is  one  of  the  first  essentials 
of  a  fruit  suited  to  the  Province  of  Manitoba.  From 


IN  MANITOBA  89 

the  time  of  the  introduction  of  the  crab  apple  and  the 
hardy  Russian  sorts  may  be  said  to  date  the  first  suc- 
cessful attempt  at  apple  culture  in  this  province. 

The  Experimental  Farm  at  Brandon,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr.  S.  A.  Bedford,  has  done  a  great  deal  for  Mani- 
toba horticulture.  Hundreds  of  varieties  of  the  various 
classes  of  fruits  from  different  parts  of  America  and 
Europe  have  been  tested  there  and  the  results  publish- 
ed. In  the  month  of  April,  1899,  about  five  hundred 
fruit  trees,  consisting  of  apples,  crabapples,  plums  and 
cherries,  were  placed  under  test  at  the  Experimental 
Farm.  These  included  many  of  the  large  standard 
varieties  together  with  a  number  of  hardy  imported 
kinds.  Numerous  varieties  of  grapes,  currants,  goose- 
berries, raspberries,  blackberries  and  strawberries  were 
also  tested.  Many  of  these  trees  did  not  survive  the 
first  winter  and  in  a  few  years  only  the  hardiest  sorts 
were  found  to  be  alive.  Since  the  first  planting,  many 
other  varieties  of  fruits  have  been  introduced  and  ex- 
perimented with  and  much  valuable  information  has 
been  gained.  Among  the  numerous  introductions  was 
the  Russian-Berried  Crab  Pyrus  Baccata.  Its  extreme 
hardiness  makes  it  eminently  suitable  for  this  country. 
It  is  used  as  stock  on  which  the  less  hardy  standard 
sorts  are  grafted,  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  their 
hardiness  and  thereby  adapting  them  to  an  environment 
that  would  otherwise  be  uncongenial  to  them. 

Small-fruit  culture  in  the  Province  of  Manitoba  has 
always  been  attended  with  a  very  fair  degree  of  success. 
Currants,  gooseberries,  red  and  black  raspberries,  and 
strawberries  have  been  grown  since  the  early  settlement 
of  the  country.  They  yield  profitable  returns  when 
intelligently  cultivated.  They  apparently  possess  an 
inherent  hardiness  not  shared  by  many  tree-fruits,  and 
this  renders  them  much  more  suitable  for  the  severe 
climate.  It  is  only  a  matter  of  a  few  years  until  these 


90  AGRICULTURE 

smaller  fruits  will  be  grown  in  all  parts  of  the  Province , 
in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply  the  local  demand. 
Another  phase  of  horticultural  work  to  which  con- 
siderable attention  is  being  given,  is  the  decoration  of 
home  and  school  grounds  by  the  planting  of  ornamental 
trees,  shrubs  and  flowers.  The  prairie  is  bare  and  un- 
attractive and  round  many  prairie  homes  there  has  been 
a  lack  of  trees  and  shrubs.  The  work  of  beautifying 
the  surroundings  of  residences  is  the  most  necessary  step 
in  the  horticulture  of  the  Province  ojf  Manitoba,  and  a 
great  deal  is  being  done  in  the  cities,  towns  and  rural 
districts  to  increase  their  attractiveness  by  ornamental 
planting. 

In  regard  to  the  growing  of  vegetables  the  Province 
occupies  a  splendid  position.  Practically  all  garden 
vegetables  with  the  exception  of  a  few  that  require  a 
long  season,  may  be  grown  to  a  high  state  of  perfection. 
The  richness  of  the  soil  and  the  shortness  of  the  seasons 
tend  to  give  a  flavour  and  tender  crispness  not  attain- 
able elsewhere,  to  the  vegetables. 

The  splendid  yields  that  may  be  obtained  from  these 
fertile  fields  make  vegetable  growing  a  very  profitable 
branch  of  agriculture,  as  there  is  an  abundant  demand 
in  the  home  market. 

The  work  of  fostering  the  cause  of  horticulture  within 
the  Province  is  carried  on  largely  by  the  Agricultural 
College  and  certain  societies;  among  these  are  the  West- 
ern Horticultural  Society,  the  Brandon  Horticultural 
and  Forestry  Society  and  others  of  a  more  or  less  local 
character.  The  objects  of  these  societies  are  to  bring 
together  those  persons  interested  in  horticulture,  to 
gather  together  horticultural  literature  and  to  stimulate 
in  every  possible  way  a  greater  interest  in  horticultural 
pursuits.  Much  good  work  has  been  accomplished  by 
these  societies  and  to  their  efforts  is  largely  due  the  in- 


IN  MANITOBA  91 

creasing  interest  that  is  being  taken  in  the  various  lines 
of  horticultural  work  within  the  Province. 

There  are  several  directions  in  which  progress  may 
be  made  in  Manitoba  horticulture;  for  example,  a  better 
selection  of  varieties;  an  improvement  by  breeding  and 
selection  of  wild  and  native  fruits  and  varieties  grown 
in  the  country;  and  by  improved  systems  of  culture. 
Much  is  being  done  in  plant  improvement,  and  the  Prov- 
ince of  Mantioba  offers  an  excellent  field  for  the  im- 
provement of  native  fruits.  Various  wild  fruits  grow 
very  abundantly  in  many  parts  of  the  Province,  and  if 
a  combination  could  be  effected  whereby  the  hardiness 
and  productiveness  of  these  could  be  combined  with  the 
larger  size  and  better  quality  of  the  cultivated  fruit,  a 
great  step  in  advance  would  be  achieved. 

POULTRY  RAISING 

The  possibilities  of  the  poultry  industry  in  Manitoba 
are  just  beginning  to  be  understood.  When  the  country 
becomes  more  thickly  populated  and  mixed  farming  is 
more  generally  practiced,  poultry  raising  will  no  doubt 
occupy  a  prominent  place  on  the  farm.  To  many  people 
living  in  small  towns  in  Manitoba,  a  flock  of  hens  is 
sufficiently  profitable  to  be  a  source  of  considerable 
income.  The  question  is  sometimes  asked:  "Is  the 
return  likely  to  be  sufficiently  great  to  render  it  worth 
while  to  devote  one's  entire  energies  to  the  rearing  of 
poultry?" 

The  best  reply  to  this  question  may  be  deduced  from 
the  following  facts:— 

From  the  Province  of  Ontario  and  the  Northwestern 
States,  over  one  million  pounds  of  dressed  poultry,  having 
a  value  of  at  least  from  $150,000,  were  imported  into 
Winnipeg  for  its  own  consumption  during  the  past  win- 
ter. From  the  same  districts  no  less  than  4,500,000 


92  AGRICULTURE 

eggs,  of  a  total  value  of  about  $100,000,  were  brought 
into  the  city  during  the  winter.  Thus  we  see  that  the 
City  of  Winnipeg  with  130,000  inhabitants  imports  for 
its  own  consumption  about  $250,000  worth  of  poultry 
and  eggs  each  year.  To  these  figures  must  be  added  the 
amount  imported  for  Brandon  and  some  of  the  other 
larger  towns. 

The  above  mentioned  values  of  poultry  products  im- 
ported into  the  Province  are  so  great  that  the  industry 
ought  to  be  a  good  investment.  It  has  been  estimated 
that  in  the  neighborhood  of  Winnipeg  alone,  there  are 
openings  for  about  fifty  poultry  farms.  A  serious  draw- 
back to  profitable  poultry  keeping  in  Manitoba  is  the 
extreme  cold  during  some  of  the  winter  months.  But 
since  the  air  is  remarkably  dry  this  disadvantage  may 
easily  be  exaggerated.  It  is,  however,  necessary  that 
adequate  protection  should  be  afforded  the  poultry  dur- 
ing the  severe  weather. 

MARKETS  AND  MARKETING 

Co-incident  with  an  increase  in  the  area  of  cultivated 
land,  improvement  has  been  made  in  the  organization 
of  systems  of  marketing  farm  products.  In  no  par- 
ticular is  this  more  apparent  than  in  the  building  up 
of  the  grain  trade  of  the  West.  Primarily,  a  grain- 
producing  country,  her  whole  prosperity  bound  up  in 
the  annual  product  which  a  bounteous  nature  gives  her, 
it  is  but  natural  that  Manitoba  should  find  the  business 
of  handling  the  crops,  so  as  to  bring  them  to  the  various 
markets  of  the  world,  a  task  of  the  first  magnitude. 
This  is  no  less  urgent  a  duty  than  the  actual  production 
of  the  crops. 

Six  different  railway  companies  now  run  trains  to 
Winnipeg.  These  give  complete  connection  with  every 
part  of  the  continent,  and  their  branches  radiating  to 


IN  MANITOBA  93 

all  parts  of  the  West  make  it  easy  for  the  farmers  to 
transport  their  products  to  the  world's  markets.  By 
statutes  of  the  Canadian  parliament,  all  inspection  cer- 
tificates for  grain  or  other  products  that  come  under 
inspection  in  Western  Canada,  must  be  issued  by  in- 
spectors in  Winnipeg.  The  Western  crop  of  1908,  was 
estimated  at  over  two  kundred  and  thirty-six  million 
bushels,  about  eighty-five  per  cent,  being  marketed  for 
export.  All  of  this  amount  passed  through  Winnipeg 
and  went  out  bearing  Winnipeg  Inspection  Certificates. 
Of  the  total  Western  crop  Manitoba  produced  113,- 
058,189  bushels  of  grain,  nearly  one-half  of  which  was 
wheat.  From  the  crop  of  1909,  Winnipeg  grain  dealers 
will  handle  enough  bread  stuffs  to  furnish  a  year's  sup- 
ply for  all  the  inhabitants  of  Canada,  and  10,000,000 
people  besides. 

For  the  handling  of  this  grain,  there  are  in  Western 
Canada,  1,416  elevators  and  41  warehouses  with  a  total 
capacity  of  43,037,000  bushels.  Most  of  these  are  situ- 
ated on  the  Canadian  Pacific  or  the  Canadian  Northern 
Railway.  In  the  Province  of  Manitoba,  on  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway,  there  are  462  elevators  and  12  ware- 
houses with  a  total  capacity  of  14,574,600  bushels,  while 
on  the  Canadian  Northern  in  the  same  Province  there 
are  205  elevators  and  two  warehouses  having  a  total 
capacity  of  5,921,000  bushels.  Besides  these  elevators, 
at  every  station  there  is  built  a  loading  platform  over 
which  a  farmer  may  load  grain  from  his  wagon  direct 
to  the  car,  thus  allowing  him  to  ship  his  grain  inde- 
pendent of  the  elevator  companies.  During  the  mar- 
keting of  the  crop  of  1908,  about  33  per  cent,  of  the 
grain  was  shipped  in  this  way. 

The  marketing  season  usually  begins  early  in  Septem- 
ber, and  a  great  bulk  of  the  grain  is  disposed  of  before 
December.  All  the  grain  handled  in  this  space  of  time 
is  reloaded  at  the  lake  ports,  Fort  William  and  Port 


94  AGRICULTURE 

Arthur  and  shipped  by  lake.  At  these  points  thirteen 
elevators,  classed  as  ' '  terminals, ' '  are  owned  and  oper- 
ated as  follows:— 

At  Port  Arthur,  Ontario,  the  Canadian  Northern 
Railway  owns  two,  with  a  joint  capacity  of  7,000,000 
bushels.  These  are  operated  by  the  Port  Arthur  Ele- 
vator Company.  There  is  also -at  Port  Arthur,  the  ele- 
vator of  Jos.  G.  King  and  Company,  with  a  capacity 
of  800,000  bushels.  This  elevator  is  on  the  line  of  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway  At  Fort  William,  the  Can- 
adian Pacific  Railway  owns  and  operate  three,  with  a 
respective  capacity  of  2,258,000;  2,209,700  and  1,221,000 
bushels  each.  Four  other  elevator  companies  have 
storage  capacity  amounting  to  2,360,000  bushels. 

At  Keewatin,  Ontario,  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  Milling 
Company  have  two  milling  elevators  having  a  capacity 
of  700,000  and  500,000  bushels  respectively.  And  at 
Kenora,  the  Maple  Leaf  Flour  Mills  Company  own  one 
that  will  store  500,000  bushels. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  grain  taken  into  the  hun- 
dreds of  smaller  elevators  in  the  West,  and  shipped 
from  loading  platforms  at  country  points,  finds  its  way 
into  the  above  mentioned  terminals  at  the  Lake  front 
and  is  shipped  from  there  to  its  ultimate  destination, 
the  bulk  going  by  vessel  to  Georgian  Bay  ports,  Mon- 
treal and  Kingston,  although  last  year  close  on  to  9,000,- 
000  bushels  went  to  Buffalo  and  other  United  States 
ports.  In  addition,  1,571,940  bushels  were  shipped  in 
1908,  by  rail  over  the  Great  Northern  Railway  to  Duluth. 
During  the  crop  year  of  1907-1908,  there  was  a  total 
shipment  of  62,107,513  bushels,  and  of  this  47,743,336 
bushels  were  shipped  by  boat,  and  14,364,177  went  by 
rail.  The  total  amount  invested  in  terminal  and  coun- 
try elevators  and  warehouses  in  the  Manitoba  Grain 
Inspection  Division  is  approximately  $11,707,000. 

The  rates  in  force  at  Public  Terminal  Elevators  are  — 


IN  MANITOBA  95 

For  receiving,  elevating,  cleaning,  spouting  and  insur- 
ance against  fire,  including  fifteen  days  free  storage, 
y±  cent  per  bushel.  When  it  is  necessary  to  re-clean 
grain  in  order  to  ascertain  the  amount  of  domestic 
grain  of  commercial  value  contained  in  the  screenings, 
a  charge  of  one-half  cent  per  bushel  is  made  for  extra 
treatment. 

Foremost  in  the  business  interests  of  the  West,  stands 
the  Winnipeg  Grain  Exchange,  which,  in  the  compar- 
atively short  space  of  twenty  years,  has  reached  an  en- 
viable position  among  the  leading  grain  institutions 
of  the  world.  The  Winnigeg  Grain  and  Produce  'Ex- 
change was  incorporated  in  1891,  after  having  been  or- 
ganized for  several  years.  Commencing  with  a  member- 
ship of  ten,  and  an  entrance  fee  of  $15,  the  Exchange 
has,  in  less  than  two  decades,  reached  such  a  commanding 
position  that  the  leading  grain  dealers  of  the  continent 
consider  it  imperative  to  become  members.  The  value 
of  the  seats  has  reached  $2,500,  and  the  membership 
numbers  300. 

The  objects  of  the  Exchange,  as  outlined  in  the  ar- 
ticles of  incorporation,  were  declared  to  be — "to  com- 
pile, record  and  publish  statistics,  and  acquire  and  dis- 
tribute information  respecting  the  produce  and  provision 
trades,  and  promote  the  establishment  and  the  main- 
tenance of  uniformity  in  the  business,  customs  and 
regulations  among  the  persons  engaged  in  the  said  trades 
throughout  the  province,  and  to  adjust,  settle  and  de- 
termine controversies  and  misunderstandings  between 
persons  engaged  in  such  trades."  The  record  of  the 
past  years  clearly  indicates  that  these  objects  have  been 
fully  attained. 

Through  the  efforts  of  the  Exchange,  permanent 
standards  have  been  secured  for  the  various  grades  of 
grain,  and  those  have  proved  of  great  benefit  to  both 
the  producer  and  grain  dealer  throughout  the  West 


90  AGRICULTURE 

The  different  grades  are  named  thus : — ' '  No.  1  Mani- 
toba Hard,"  "No.  1  Manitoba  Northern,"  "No.  2 
Manitoba  Northern,"  "No.  3  Manitoba  Northern," 
' '  Commercial  grade  No.  4, "  "  Commercial  grade  No, 
5,"  "Commercial  grade  No.  6,"  "Commercial  grade, 
feed. ' '  The  grade  ' '  No.  1  Manitoba  Hard, ' '  consists 
almost  altogether  of  hard,  red,  plump  kernels.  In 
every  hundred  only  about  three  immature,  shrunken 
kernels  are  allowed  and  the  sample  must  be  practically 
free  from  "frosted"  kernels,  i.e.,  kernels  with  pale, 
roughened  skin,  due  to  the  action  of  frost  or  water,  and 
there  must  be  no  appreciable  odor  of  smut. 

' '  No.  1  Manitoba  Northern ' '  is  distinguished  from 
"No.  1  Hard,"  chiefly  by  the  larger  proportion  of 
starchy  kernels  present,  and  of  those  which  are  somewhat 
shrivelled.  It  has  about  ten  shrunken  kernels  in  every 
hundred,  and  is  practically  free  from  kernels  showing 
the  action  of  water  or  frost.  "No.  2  Northern"  is 
very  much  like  "No.  1  Northern,"  but  with  a  slightly 
larger  proportion  of  defective  kernels,  about  twelve 
in  every  hundred.  ' '  No.  3  Northern ' '  contains  about 
twenty-three  defective  kernels  in  every  hundred.  ' '  No. 
4"  has  about  thirty  defective  kernels  in  every  hundred, 
while  "No.  5"  contains  about  fifty-six  defective  kernels, 
forty  of  which  may  be  shrunken.  "Commercial  grade 
No.  6"  contains  about  sixty-five  damaged  kernels, 
while  Commercial  grade  rated  as  ' '  feed ' '  contains  about 
eighty-eight  defective  kernels  in  every  hundred,  and  the 
sample  usually  possesses  a  distinct  odour  of  smut. 

In  the  prices  received  for  those  different  grades,  there 
is  considerable  variation.  "No.  1  Hard"  always  sells 
for  one  cent  more  than  ' '  No.  1  Northern, ' '  while  there 
is  a  difference  of  from  four  to  six  cents  between  each 
of  the  following  grades.  During  the  four  months  from 
September  1st,  1908,  to  January  1st,  1909,  about  83 
per  cent,  of  the  crop  was  marketed.  The  average  price 


IN   MANITOBA  97 

for  all  grades  of  wheat  has  been  estimated  in  one  com- 
putation at  85  cents,  and  with  the  price  for  "No.  1 
Northern ' '  hovering  about  a  dollar,  as  was  the  case 
during  those  four  months,  this  average  may  be  con- 
sidered fairly  representative.  The  price  of  oats  held 
fairly  steady  between  35  and  40  cents,  and,  if  allowance 
be  made  for  low 'grades  and  freight  rates,  the  average 
return  to  the  farmer  may  be  placed  at  not  less  than 
27  cents  per  bushel.  Barley  held  up  in  price  throughout 
the  season  and  has  been  valued  at  the  rate  of  40  cents 
per  bushel.  • 

Manitoba  is  not  merely  a  wheat  growing  and  exporting 
country.  Every  branch  of  farming  has  made  rapid 
strides  of  late  years.  The  products  include  oats,  barley, 
flax,  rye  and  peas;  the  Manitoba  root  crop  alone  amounts 
to  8,568,386  bushels  and  the  dairy  products  to  3,918,- 
568  Ibs.  of  the  value  of  $10,604.31. 

The  development  of  the  live  stock  trade  has  been 
very  great.  This  is  shown  by  the  increase  in  the  stock 
marketed.  The  past  year  was  an  excellent  one  for  the 
rearing  and  shipping  of  live  stock,  the  receipts  at  the 
Winnipeg  stock  yard  were  nearly  double  those  of  any 
similar  period.  Not  only  is  there  much  improvement 
in  the  number  of  cattle  marketed,  but  also  in  their 
quality.  The  total  receipts  at  Winnipeg  for  1908,  were 
170,088  head,  and  of  these  about  91,045  cattle  were 
suitable  for  export.  The  remainder  were  sold  as  ' '  stock- 
ers"  and  "feeders." 

Many  farmers  now  ship  their  own  cattle  and  do  their 
own  selling  on  the  market.  This  fact  has  made  the  com- 
petition much  keener  between  buyers  than  it  was 
previously.  However,  most  of  the  arrivals  of  butchers ' 
and  feeders'  stock  are  sold  by  farmers  to  buyers  in  the 
country,  who  again  sell  to  dealers  in  Winnipeg.  The 
prices  for  average  export  cattle  have  been  about  $47 
per  head  at  the  shipping  point.  For  butchers'  stock 


OS  AGRICULTURE 

the  average  price  to  the  farmers  has  been  about  three 
cents  per  pound.  This  price  is  small  but  is  accounted  for 
very  largely  by  the  fact  that  the  Winnipeg  market  for 
butchers  was  glutted  during  most  of  the  past  season. 
A  number  of  ' '  butchers ' '  and  ' '  feeders ' '  were  taken 
East  to  Toronto  and  Montreal,  and  others,  South  to 
St.  Paul  and  Chicago.  The  Winnipeg  market,  however, 
provided  for  nearly  64,000  head,  a  number  slightly 
out  of  proportion  to  actual  requirements.  Each  year 
a  greater  number  of  these  cattle  are  being  ' '  fitted ' '  be- 
fore being  marketted,  and,  as  this  process  becomes  more 
general,  the  price  will  improve. 

The  average  weight  of  the  ' '  butchers ' '  and  ' '  feeders ' ' 
at  Winnipeg,  was  1,061  pounds,  in  1908,  and  the  average 
price  $3.53,  giving  a  total  value  of  $2,966,483  for  one 
year.  The  total  amount  paid  out  for  cattle  at  the  yards 
was  $7,245,589. 

It  is  believed  that  the  West  will  become  a  great  hog- 
raising  country.  In  the  year  1908,  there  was  an  in- 
crease of  63,640  as  compared  with  the  previous  year, 
the  total  receipts  at  Winnipeg  numbering  145,269. 
The  yearly  packing  capacity  of  Winnipeg,  is  450,000. 
The  Winnipeg  market  price  for  hogs  is  very  largely 
controlled  by  the  price  for  which  bacon  can  be  brought 
in  from  the  United  States.  Hogs,  like  butchers'  cattle, 
are  mainly  bought  in  Winnipeg  through  middlemen,  but 
the  prices  vary  less  than  for  cattle.  The  average  price 
paid  last  season  was  $5.70  per  cwt.  at  Winnipeg,  and,  to 
the  farmers  at  their  own  station,  about  5  cents  per  pound. 

The  sheep  industry  is  not  yet  very  extensive.  The 
mutton  receipts  show  each  year  but  slight  increase, 
as  Winnipeg  still  continues  to  bring  frozen  mutton  from 
Eastern  Canada  during  the  past  year;  as  much  as  eight 
cents  per  pound  was  paid  on  the  hoof  for  lambs  off  cars 
at  Winnipeg.  The  live  stock  industry  in  Western  Canada 
is  still  in  its  infancy,  but  there  are  already  indications 


IN  MANITOBA  99 

of  a  considerable  increase  in  a  very  short  time,  Farmers 
are  beginning  to  realize  that  the  fertility  of  the  soil  must 
be  retained,  and  that  this  is  best  done  by  the  rearing 
and  feeding  of  live  stock. 

AGRICULTURAL  EDUCATION 

The  Province  of  Manitoba  is  so  young  that  most  of  its 
industries  are  still  in  the  making.  The  first  and  par- 
amount of  these  is  farming,  but  even  this  is  only  in  its 
infancy.  "Extensive"  rather  than  "intensive "meth- 
ods have  been  followed.  The  farmers  reaped  crop  after 
crop  of  wheat  until  they  found  that  their  land  would  not 
continue  for  many  years  to  respond  to  this  treatment. 
To-day  in  Manitoba,  conditions  are  such  as  to  demand 
the  employment  of  more  scientific  methods  of  agri- 
culture. To  disseminate  a  knowledge  of  these  is  the 
function  of  our  system  of  agricultural  education. 

Until  within  the  last  few  years,  agricultural  education 
has  been  carried  on  by  the  Experimental  Farms,  the 
Agricultural  Societies,  the  Breeders'  Association,  and 
the  Agricultural  Press.  The  first  Experimental  Farm 
was  founded  by  Lord  Selkirk,  in  1816,  at  Hayfield,  and 
was  carried  on  until  1822.  In  1837,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  founded  an  Experimental  Farm  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Fort  Garry,  on  the  Assiniboine  River.  This 
farm  also  had  only  a  short  career  of  some  ten  or  eleven 
years.  In  1888,  the  Dominion  Government  called  upon 
Dr.  William  Saunders  and  Professor  S.  A.  Bedford,  to 
choose  sites  for  two  farms  in  the  West.  Tha|g  are  situ- 
ated at  Brandon  and  Indian  Head.  The  farm  at  Brandon 
was  ably  managed  ^by  Mr.  Bedford,  for  over  eighteen 
years.  During  this  time  good  work  was  done  for  the 
West  in  introducing  early-ripening  varieties  of  wheat 
by  experiments  in  raising  and  feeding  stock,  and  in  the 


100  AGRICULTURE 

testing  of  fruit  and  forest  trees,  as  well  as  grasses  and 
fodder  plants. 

The  Provincial  Department  of  Agriculture  has  been 
active,  also,  in  educational  work,  and  has  always  been 
generous  in  making  grants  of  money  to  the  Agricultural 
Societies,  Farmers'  Institutes,  Dairy  Association,  Breed- 
res'  Association,  and  Horticultural  Society,  and  in 
other  ways.  Farmers'  Institute  meetings  have  been 
-held  in  Manitoba  ever  since  1890,  and  Agricultural 
Fairs  since  1892.  Reports  show  that  56  Agricultural 
Fairs  and  122  Institute  meetings  were  held  in  Manitoba 
during  the  year  1908.  In  the  winter  of  1907-1908,  the 
Provincial  Government  offered  $50  to  each  of  ten  Agri- 
cultural Societies  if  they  would  subscribe  equal  amounts 
in  order  to  hold  Seed- Grain  Fairs.  This  experiment 
proved  so  satisfactory  that  the  offer  has  been  made  gen- 
eral, with  the  result  that  some  thirty  fairs  were  held 
during  the  past  winter.  The  summer  of  1908,  was  the 
first  in  which  farming  competitions  were  held,  although 
previous  to  this,  prizes  had  been  offered  for  the  best 
fields  of  standing  grain.  Special  mention  should  be 
made  of  the  judging-schools,  which  have  been  held  since 
1902,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Live  Stock  Association, 
whose  meetings  were  formerly  held  in  Winnipeg  but 
are  now  held  in  Brandon  during  March,  in  each  year. 
In  1906,  a  seed-grain  special  train  carrying  a  corps  of 
Institute  speakers,  travelled  through  the  provinces 
and  called  at  all  the  important  towns,  and  in  1907,  a 
special  dairy  train,  suitably  equipped,  visited  the  leading 
dairy  sections  of.  the  province. 

The  magazines  giving  space  to  agriculture  .in  Mani- 
toba, are  the  Nor '-West  Farmer,  the  Farmers'  Advo- 
cate, The  Canadian  Thresherman,  Farm  Crops,  and  the 
weekly  editions  of  the  Free  Press,  Telegram,  and- Tribune. 
The  value  of  such  periodicals  in  disseminating  agricul- 
tural information  cannot  be  over  estimated.  In  the 


IN  MANITOBA  101 

schools,  agriculture  has  been  a  subject  of  the  curri- 
culum since  1896.  The  work  prescribed  is,  however, 
rather  "nature  study"  than  systematic  agriculture. 
For  the  High  Schools  and  Collegiates,  a  short  course 
in  agriculture  is  outlined,  to  be  taken  by  pupils  pur- 
suing the  Third-Class  Teachers'  Course.  This  covers 
a  brief  study  of  plants  in  their  relation  to  water,  soil 
and  air;  the  origin,  drainage  and  improvement  of  the 
soil;  the  different  crops;  and  the  live-stock  of  the  farm. 
Experiments  are  performed  in  elementary  physics  and 
chemistry,  bearing  upon  agriculture.  During  the  past 
summer,  a  further  step  has  been  taken  in  elementary 
agricultural  education.  All  second  and  first-class 
teachers  are  required,  while  taking  their  professional 
training  at  the  Normal  School,  to  spend  one  month  at 
the  Provincial  Agricultural  College. 

In  1906,  the  Manitoba  Agricultural  College  was  opened 
and  85  students  registered  in  the  general  course.  The 
next  session  143  were  enrolled,  while  during  the  past 
session  170  were  in  regular  attendance.  A  special  dairy 
course  is  held  for  those  who  wish  to  prepare  themselves 
to  manage  and  operate  cheese  factories  and  creameries 
in  the  province.  In  1908,  a  short  course  in  Engineering 
was  begun  to  meet  the  demand  for  instruction  in  working 
steam  and  gasoline  engines,  which  are  so  much  used 
in  modern  farming. 

' '  Farmers '  Week ' '  at  the  college  has  now  become  an 
important  factor  in  agricultural  education.  The  Agri- 
cultural Societies,  Dairy  Association  and  Horticultural 
Society  hold  their  annual  conventions  at  this  time,  and, 
in  order  to  make  the  gathering  of  greater  interest  to  the 
hundreds  of  farmers  who  attend,  the  regular  classes, 
are  suspended,  and  short  courses  are  given  in  stock- 
judging,  grain-judging  and  engineering,  for  their  special 
benefit. 

Over  half  a  million  dollars  have  been  spent  in  the 


102  AGRICULTURE 

buildings  and  equipment  of  the  college.  These  include 
a  main  or  administration  building,  a  mechanical  and 
engineering  building,  a  students'  residence,  power- 
house, greenhouse,  principal's  residence,  farm  foreman's 
residence,  stock  judging  pavilion,  and  barns.  The 
mechanical  building,  recently  erected,  is  100  feet  square 
and  three  storeys  in  height  and  contains  a  blacksmith 's 
shop  equipped  with  50  forges  and  anvils,  an  equal  num- 
ber of  work  benches  in  the  carpenter  shop,  and  a  machin- 
ery department  containing  all  kinds  of  farm  machinery, 
such  as  ploughs,  harrows,  seeders,  binders,  mowers, 
manure  spreaders,  hay  loaders,  packers,  wagons,  a 
threshing  machine,  and  steam  and  gasoline  engines, 
the  majority  of  which  have  been  presented  to  the  col- 
lege. In  the  stables  pure-bred  stock — horses,  cattle, 
sheep,  swine,  and  poultry — are  kept  for  educational 
purposes. 

The  work  in  the  regular  course  is  covered  by  the  fol- 
lowing departments-  Field  Husbandry,  Dairying,  Veter- 
inary Science,  Horticulture  and  Forestry,  Agricultural 
Chemisrty,  Soil  Physics,  Biology,  Farm  Management, 
and  English.  The  regular  course  extends  over  a  period 
of  two  winter  sessions  of  five  months  each  and  is  con- 
trolled by  an  Advisory  Board,  which  issues  a  diploma 
in  agriculture  to  each  student  who  completes  the  two- 
year  course  and  returns  to  the  farm  to  engage  in  prac- 
tical agriculture.  This  Board  is  composed  of  the  Minis- 
ter of  Agriculture  of  Manitoba,  two  members  appointed 
by  the  Lieutenant- Governor  in  Council,  two  appointed 
by  the  University  of  Manitoba,  and  five  by  the  Agri- 
cultural Societies  of  the  Province.  In  1908,  the  college 
was  affiliated  with  the  University  of  Manitoba,  and  a 
course  has  been  added  for  those  wishing  to  proceed  to 
a  degree  in  agriculture. 

A  society  called  the  M.A.C.  Research  Association  was 
organized  in  1907,  and  has  already  done  good  work. 


IN  MANITOBA  103 

It  has  for  its  object  the  making  observations  and  cel- 
lecting  data  on  agriculture  by  the  past  and  present 
students  of  the  college.  The  young  farmer  has  every 
reason  to  be  grateful  for  the  generous  provision  which 
the  Province  has  made  for  his  education ;  and  it  is  hoped 
that  before  long  adequate  provision  will  be  made  for  the 
teaching  of  domestic  science.  Before  many  years  have 
elapsed  it  will  probably  be  necessary  to  establish  agri- 
cultural high  schools  throughout  the  Province,  as  has 
been  done  in  Ontario.  We  may  reasonably  hope  that 
the  foresight  exemplified  in  our  institutions  for  agricul- 
tural education  will  produce  a  race  of  farmers  who  will 
consider  not  merely  their  personal  aggrandisement  but 
will  have  regard  to  the  advantages  to  be  reaped  by 
posterity  from  a  scientific  tillage  of  the  land. 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF   CANADA 

By  R.  W.  BROCK, 
Director  of  Geological  Survey,  Dominion  of  Canada. 

FOR  an  outline  of  the  geology  and  physical  features 
of  Canada.  I  have  thought  that  nothing  better 
could  be  presented  than  the  chapter  prepared 
by  the  late  George  M.  Dawson  for  the  Hand- 
book of  Canada  issued  by  the  local  executive  of 
the  British  Association  for  the  Toronto  meet- 
ing. The  present  sketch  is  therefore  based  upon 
Dawson's  Physical  Geography  and  Geology  of  Canada, 
revised  and  in  parts  expanded.  This  has  been  done 
with  the  co-operation  of  Mr.  W.  Mclnnes,  Mr.  R.  G. 
McConnell,  Mr.  G.  A.  Young,  and  Mr.  O.  E.  Leroy. 

A  great  part  of  Canada  is  as  yet  unexplored,  and  over 
a  large  portion  only  reconnaissance  surveys  have  been 
made,  but  enough  has  been  done  to  establish  a  correct 
conception  of  the  general  geological  structure  of  the 
country. 

Since  the  greatest  part  of  Canada  is  unprospected,  we 
do  not  know  what  latent  mineral  wealth  awaits  develop- 
ment, but  we  do  know  that  there  is  in  Canada  one  of  t  he 
greatest  tracts  of  unexplored  mineral  land  in  the  world, 
and  sufficient  has  already  been  accomplished  to  demon- 
strate that  Canada  is  destined  to  become  one  of  the  great 
mining  countries.  . 

The  development  of  the  mineral  resources  has  been 
slow,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  excellent  agri- 
cultural land,  which  made  Canadians  an  agricultural 
people.  In  recent  years,  however,  attention  has  been 
directed  to  its  mineral  resources,  and  a  mining  industry 
is  rapidly  developing.  In  1886  the  mineral  production 


Model  of  Cascade  Basin.  Focky  Mountains 


The  Plains,  frcrn  Relief  Model 


OF  CANADA  105 

of  Canada  was  under  ten  and  a  quarter  million  dollars  in 
value,  while  last  year  it  was  eighty-seven  million. 

This  development  is  making  necessary  a  corresponding 
increase  in  the  attention  given  to  the  study  of  the  geology 
of  the  country,  so  that  the  knowledge  of  the  geological 
structure  of  Canada  may  be  expected  to  rapidly  extend. 

Canada  embraces  the  northern  half  of  the  continent 
of  North  America  with  its  adjacent  islands,  including 
those  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  between  the  141st  meridian 
and  Greenland,  but  exclusive  of  Alaska  in  the  extreme 
north-west,  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  which  still 
remains  a  separate  British  colony,  and  the  small  islands 
of  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon,  retained  by  France.  The 
total  area,  of  Canada  is  estimated  at  about  3,729,665 
square  miles,  of  which  the  Arctic  islands  to  the  north 
make  up  over  500,000  square  miles.  This  area  is  some- 
what larger  than  the  United  States  (including  Alaska), 
and  not  much  less  than  all  Europe. 

The  form  of  the  North  American  continent  may  be 
described  as  that  of  an  isoscles  triangle,  of  which  the 
narrower  part,  pointing  south,  constitutes  Mexico,  a 
wide  central  belt,  the  United  States,  while  the  broader 
base  is  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  The  northern  margin 
of  the  continental  land  lies  approximately  on  the  seven- 
tieth parrallel  of  north  latitude,  but  in  the  east  the  land 
area  is  continued  northward  by  the  great  islands  of  the 
Arctic  archipelago,  while  south  of  these  the  continent  is 
broken  into  by  the  large  but  shallow  sea  named  Hudson 
Bay,  800  miles  from  north  to  south  and  some  600  miles 
in  width. 

Surrounding  Hudson  Bay  lies  the  Laurentian  plateau 
or  "Canadian  Shield,"  a  tract  of  land  underlain  by  pre- 
Cambrian  rocks  and,  though  relatively  elevated,  never 
rising  over  2,000  feet  above  the  sea  except  in  the  extreme 
north-east.  Spreading  widely  in  the  Labrador  penin- 
sula, this  upland  runs  with  narrow  dimensions  round 


105  THE  GEOLOGY 

the  southern  extremity  of  Hudson  Bay  and  thence  is 
continued  north-westward  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  Along 
the  southern  margin  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  lies  the 
great  waterway,  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  running  to  the 
very  centre  of  the  continent  and  expanding  there  into 
the  group  of  inland  fresh  water  seas  generally  spoken  of 
as  the  Great  Lakes,  while  the  Winnipeg  system  of  lakes, 
with  Athabasca,  Great  Slave  and  Great  Bear  Lakes, 
occupy  a  very  similar  position  on  the  outer  rim  of  the 
north-western  extension  of  the  plateau. 

Never  far  distant  from  the  oceans,  and  following  the 
trends  of  the  south-east  and  south-west  sides  of  the 
Laurentian  highlands  respectively,  the  Appalachian 
mountains  and  those  comprised  in  the  western  Cordilleras 
converge  to  the  south,  embracing  between  them,  to  the 
south  of  the  Great  Lakes,  the  central  plain  of  the  conti- 
nent that,  west  of  the  Laurentian  plateau,  extends 
northward  through  Canada  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  But 
in  the  east,  in  Canada,  the  Appalachian  range  more 
closely  follows  the  border  of  the  Canadian  Shield,  separ- 
ated from  it,  till  the  Great  Lakes  are  reached,  only  by 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  While  the  two 
mountain  systems  of  the  continent  are,  with  respect  to 
one  another,  symmetrically  disposed,  they  are  opposed 
in  extent  and  character.  The  Cordillerian  system  of  the 
west  embraces  a  truly  mountainous  tract,  over  which 
large  areas  are  elevated  more  than  5,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  with  peaks  rising  to  heights  of  10,000  feet  and  more. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  mountains  or  hills  of  the  Appala- 
chian system,  in  Canada,  seldom  rise  more  than  2,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  over  the  greater  part  of  the 
eastern  provinces  of  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia  and 
Prince  Edward  Island  the  land  lies  below  the  one 
thousand  foot  datum  line. 

Only  the  most  general  notice  can  be  given  to  the  rivers 
and  lakes  of  Canada,  but  no  feature  of  the  country  is 


OF  CANADA  107 

more  important,  whether  historically  or  geographically, 
than  the  great  length  and  volume  of  its  principal  water- 
courses and  the  manner  in  which  these  interlock  and 
penetrate  almost  every  part  of  the  area.  Besides  the  St. 
Lawrence,  with  its  drainage  basin  of  530,000  square 
miles,  there  are  three  more  rivers  of  the  first  class  of 
which  the  watersheds  are  wholly  or  in  great  part  included 
in  Canada.  These  are  the  Nelson,  the  Mackenzie  and  the 
Yukon.  The  first-named  reaches  Hudson  Bay,  bringing 
with  it  the  waters  of  the  Saskatchewan  and  other  large 
and  long  rivers  which  drain  a  vast  region  in  the  centre  of 
the  continent.  Its  basin  is  estimated  at  367,000  square 
miles.  The  Mackenzie,  flowing  into  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
drains  not  only  most  of  the  northern  part  of  the  interior 
plain  of  the  continent,  but  also  considerable  portions  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  region  and  the  Laurentian  plateau, 
with  a  basin  of  about  677,000  square  miles.  Next  to  the 
St.  Lawrence  it  is  the  longest  river  of  Canada,  being  not 
less  than  1,800  miles  from  its  source  to  its  mouth.  The 
Yukon,  discharging  into  the  northern  part  of  Behring 
Sea,  drains  a  great  tract  of  the  northern  part  of  the 
Qordillerian  region  comprised  in  Canada,  besides  flowing 
across  the  whole  width  of  Alaska. 

It  is  only  by  contrast  with  these  greatest  rivers  that 
many  more  are  relegated  to  a  second  or  third  rank,  as  an 
examination  of  a  map  will  show.  It  will  also  be  apparent 
that  much  the  larger  part  of  the  country  lies  on  the 
northern  slope  of  the  continent  regarded  as  a  whole,  and 
that  the  remainder  is  divided  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  sides,  only  an  inconsiderable  region  being  tribu- 
tary to  the  southward-flowing  system  of  the  Missouri  and 
its  branches. 

It  may  be  useful  in  this  connection  to  state  the  heights 
of  a  few  of  the  larger  lakes,  as  ruling  features  in  physical 
geography.  The  Great  Lakes,  although  they  stand  at 
•four  levels,  in  reality  occupy  only  two  distinct  stages, 


103  THE   GEOLOGY 

separated  by  the  Niagara  Falls.  Below  this  cataract  is 
Lake  Ontario,  246  feet  above  the  sea,  above  it  Lake  Erie, 
572  feet,  Lake  Huron  and  Lake  Michigan,  581  feet,  and 
Lake  Superior,  002  feet.  Further  to  the  west  and  north- 
west are  Lake  of  the  Woods,  1,057  feet,  Lake  Winnipeg, 
710  feet,  Lakes  Manitoba  and  Winnipegosis,  810  and  828 
feet  respectively,  Athabasca  Lake,  690  feet,  Great  Slave 
Lake  about  520  feet,  and  Great  Bear  Lake  about  390  feet. 
Each  of  these  lakes  marks  the  lowest  level  of  large  tracts 
of  adjacent  land. 

From  a  physiographical  and  geological  standpoint,  the 
Canadian  part  of  the  continent  may  very  naturally  be 
regarded  as  composed  of  two  great  divisions — an  eastern 
and  a  western — the  line  between  these  beginning  at  the 
south  near  Winnipeg  and  running  thence  along  the  outer 
edge  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  north-westward  to  the 
Arctic  Ocean.  To  the  east  of  this  line,  while  the  surface 
is  generally  broken  and  irregular,  the  relief  is  nearly 
everywhere  comparatively  low.  The  rocks  are  almost 
altogether  referable  to  the  Palaeozoic  systems  or  to 
systems  older  than  these,  and  there  is  little  evidence  of 
important  changes  during  the  later  geological  periods- 
beyond  such  as  is  incident  to  the  gradual  wearing  away 
and  denudation  of  ancient  highlands  and  mountain 
systems. 

To  the  west  the  Mesozoic  and  Tertiary  systems  become 
important.  The  entire  spread  of  the  great  plains  is 
floored  by  such  rocks,  and  they  occupy  also  a  large  part 
of  the  western  Cordilleran  belt,  although  there  mingled 
with  important  areas  of  much  older  rocks.  Many  of  the 
mountain  ranges  of  the  Cordillera  are  rugged,  new  and 
lofty,  and  the  processes  of  denudation  are  still  going  on 
very  rapidly,  with  rivers  and  streams  flowing  at  high 
grades  and  very  far  from  that  passive  condition,  where 
the  drainage  system  has  approximately  reached  the  base- 
level  of  erosion. 


OF  CANADA  109 

A  two-fold  division  of  the  northern  part  of  the  conti- 
nent, of  the  kind  above  indicated,  although  based  upon 
fundamental  facts,  is,  however,  much  too  general  for  the 
purposes  of  description  of  its  several  regions.  The 
boundaries  of  the  several  provinces,  resulting  from  cir- 
cumstances of  a  more  or  less  political  kind,  do  not  always 
correspond  with  the  natural  features  and  cannot  there- 
fore be  adopted  as  the  best  for  purposes  of  geographical 
and  geological  description.  Relying  chiefly  upon  the 
physical  and  geological  facts,  we  may  therefore  further 
subdivide  Canada  as  follows: — 

(1)  The  Appalachian  Region,  including  the  Maritime 
Provinces  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  south-eastern  part  of- 
the  Province  of  Quebec  bounded  by  a  line  running  from 
the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle  to  the  City  of  Quebec  and  thence 
to  Lake  Champlain. 

(2)  The  Lowlands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley,  extending, 
with  an  irregular  width,  from  the  City  of  Quebec  to  Lake 
Huron  and  including  the  Ontario  peninsula. 

(3)  The  Laurentian  Plateau. 

(4)  The  Arctic  Archipelago. 

(5)  The  Interior  Continental  Plain,  running  from  the 
49th  parallel  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  including  part  of 
Manitoba,  Saskatchewan,  Alberta  and  the  North- West 
Territories. 

(6)  The  Cordillera,  or  great  mountain  belt  of  the  west, 
including  the  greater  part  of  British  Columbia  and  the 
whole  of  the  Yukon  district. 

The  Appalachian  Region  of  Canada  includes  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  of  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick  and 
Prince  Edward  Island  and  the  portion  of  the  province  of 
Quebec  lying  east  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  up  to  the 
City  of  Quebec  and  from  there  east  of  a  line  running 
south-westerly  to  Lake  Champlain.  The  region  is  part 
of  a  zone  that  has  been  the  seat  of  successive  mountain 


1 10  THE  GEOLOGY 

building  forces  that  gave  form  to  the  eastern  part  of  the 
North  American  continent  and  yielded  the  Appalachian 
mountain  system  that,  commencing  not  far  north  of  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  runs  north-eastward  through  the  At- 
lantic states  and  eastern  Quebec  to  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence.  This  mountain  system  is  represented  in 
Vermont  and  New  Hampshire  by  the  Green  and  White 
Mountains,  and  its  main  line  runs  on,  though  with  much 
decreased  elevation,  through  the  south-eastern  part  of 
the  Province  of  Quebec,  under  the  name  of  the  Notre 
Dame  Mountains.  Not  far  below  the  City  of  Quebec  it 
approaches  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  thence  continues 
parallel  with  that  river  and  its  great  estuary,  all  the  way 
to  Gaspe  on  the  open  gulf.  In  the  Gaspe  peninsula  it  is 
known  as  the  Shickshock  Mountains.  Considerable 
parts  of  these  mountains  rise  above  3,000  feet,  but  the 
Notre  Dame  range  seldom  exceeds  1,000  or  1,500  feet, 
and  its  elevations  resemble  rolling  and  broken  hills  and 
ridges  rather  than  mountains  properly  so  called.  The 
whole  length  of  this  main  continuation  of  the  Appala- 
chian system  in  Canada  is  about  500  miles. 

Subordinate  and  less  continuous  elevations,  nearly 
parallel  to  the  main  ridge  thus  outlined,  occur  in  New 
Brunswick,  chiefly  along  two  lines,  one  of  which  strikes 
Chaleur  Bay  below  its  head,  the  other,  somewhat  diver- 
gent in  direction  to  the  eastward,  borders  the  southern 
shore  of  the  province  along  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Though 
lying  at  some  distance  to  the  south,  eastward  of  the  main 
line,  the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  may  best  be  regarded 
as  a  member  of  the  Appalachian  system  of  uplifts,  with 
which  it  is  parallel.  Its  elevation  nowhere  exceeds  1,200 
feet,  and  is  in  general  very  much  less.  A  broad  range  of 
broken  hills  and  uplands  e'xtends  along  the  Atlantic  coast 
of  the  province  and  into  the  island  of  Cape  Breton. 

In  the  general  sense  in  which  the  term  "Appalachian 
Region"  has  been  employed,  it  has  thus  a  width  of 


OF  CANADA  111 

about  350  miles  between  the  outer  coasts  of  Nova  Scotia 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  estuary.  Followed  to  the  south- 
westward,  this  belt  of  country  embraces  the  New  England 
States  and  part  of  New  York,  all  with  very  similar 
physical  features.  In  the  opposite  direction  it  is  inter- 
rupted by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  but  reappears  in 
the  great  island  of  Newfoundland,  still  preserving  most 
of  its  characteristic  features.  Throughout  this  region, 
including  Newfoundland,  the  geological  structure  is  very 
similar,  the  formations  represented  are  nearly  the  same, 
and  both  in  composition  and  from  a  palaeontological 
standpoint  they  often  resemble  those  of  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Atlantic  more  closely  than  they  do  those  of 
other  parts  of  America. 

Much  of  the  area  comprised  in  what  has  been  desig- 
nated the  Appalachian  Region,  in  Quebec  and  New 
Brunswick,  affords  excellent  arable  land  or  supports 
valuable  forests.  The  character  of  the  soil  varies  greatly, 
chiefly  in  conformity  with  that  of  the  subjacent  rocks, 
but  it  has  also  been  considerably  affected,  as  almost  all 
parts  of  Canada,  by  the  nature  and  amount  of  the  de- 
posits due  to  the  glacial  period.  The  best  arable  lands 
of  Nova  Scotia  are  situated  towards  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
and  along  the  northern  side  of  the  peninsula  generally. 
The  surface  of  Prince  Edward  Island  is  for  the  most  part 
fertile  and  highly  cultivated,  and  nowhere  exceeds  500 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  geological  scale  is  well  represented  in  the  Appalac- 
hian Region  from  the  pre-Cambrian  to  the  Triassic,  but 
thereafter  ensues  a  long  gap,  during  which  no  deposits 
appear  to  have  formed,  probably  because  the  area  in 
question  then  existed  as  land,  exposed  to  denuding 
agencies  alone.  Closing  this  unrepresented  lapse  of  time , 
we  find  only  the  clays,  sands  and  drift  referable  to  the 
glacial  period. 

Though  lying  eastward  of  the  chief  axis  of  elevated 
country  in  Quebec,  and  no  longer  mountainous  the 


112  THE  GEOLOGY 

Maritime  Provinces  owe  their  main  physical  features  and 
geological  structure  to  the  same  general  forces  that 
operated  in  the  case  of  the  more  typical  mountainous 
districts  in  Quebec.  The  depression  of  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  the  northern  highlands  of  New  Brunswick  and 
the  hilly  country  of  the  same  province  bordering  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  this  body  of  water  itself  and  the  peninsula 
of  Nova  Scotia,  all  at  least  roughly  parallel  the  general 
north-easterly  Appalachian  trend.  These  physical  fea- 
tures reflect  the  broader  geological  structures  of  the 
country,  whose  strata  up  to  and  including  the  Devonian 
are  in  general  folded  along  axes  following  a  north-easterly 
course.  But  the  Carboniferous  and  overlying  Permian 
strata  occupying  the  low,  triangular  basin  in  New  Bruns- 
wick fronting  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  lie  flat  and 
comparatively  undisturbed,  and  with  similar  attitudes 
underlie  the  Province  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  though 
in  their  extension  eastward  through  Nova  Scotia  into 
Cape  Breton,  they  frequently  occur  in  a  highly  disturbed 
condition. 

Rocks  of  pre-Cambrian  age  occur  along  the  lines  of 
main  uplift  in  south-eastern  and  north-eastern  Quebec, 
in  the  northern  and  southern  highlands  of  New  Bruns- 
wick and  in  Cape  Breton.  In  Quebec,  the  pre-Cambrian 
is  largely,  if  not  solely,  composed  of  igneous  rocks,  chiefly 
basic  eruptives  and  their  derivatives;  in  New  Brunswick 
and  Nova  Scotia,  crystalline  limestones,  various  schistose 
rocks,  possibly  of  sedimentary  origin,  and  acid  and  basic 
igneous  rocks  occupy  the  pre-Cambrian  areas. 

Forming  the  backbone  of  the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia, 
and  bordering  the  whole  Atlantic  coast,  is  a  belt  charac- 
terized by  a  group  of  sediments  invaded  by  large  batho- 
litic  bodies  of  granite,  probably  of  Devonian  age.  This 
sedimentary  group  has  yielded  a  section  at  least  5,000 
feet  thick,  and  has  generally  been  regarded  as  of  Lower 
Cambrian  age,  though  possibly  it  should  be  classed  as 
pre-Cambrian.  The  group  is  divisible  into  a  lower 


OF  CANADA  113 

quartzite  series  and  an  upper  argillaceous  series.  The 
strata  have  been  thrown  into  a  great  series  of  parallel, 
sharp  flexures  with  which  the  distribution  of  the  wide- 
spread aurifeous  quartz  veins  is  so  closely  connected. 

Undoubted  Cambrian  strata,  often  richly  fossiliferous, 
occur  in  Cape  Breton,  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  John, 
New  Brunswick  and  in  Quebec,  where  they  almost  con- 
tinuously border  the  St.  Lawrence  River  from  the  ex- 
tremity of  Gaspe  peninsula  to  Quebec  City,  continuing 
thence  in  a  more  broken  zone  to  the  Vermont  border.  In 
all  the  areas  the  strata  in  general  are  argillaceous  or 
arenaceous, and  range  in  age  from  the  lowest  to  the  highest 
Cambrian,  at  times  passing  upwards,  without  a  break, 
into  the  Ordovician.  But  while  the  lower  beds  of  the 
5,000  to  6,000  foot.  Quebec  section,  are  characterized  by 
the  presence  of  the  Ollenellus  fauna,  the  corresponding 
strata  of  the  2,000  to  3,000  foot  section  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces  are  distinguished  by  the  occurence  of  the 
Holmia  fauna. 

Ordovician  strata  occur  throughout  the  eastern  part 
of  the  Province  of  Quebec,  often  infolded  with  the  Cam- 
brian and  pre-Cambrian  formations.  Fossiliferous  beds 
of  this  age  occur  in  northern  New  Brunswick,  but  the 
system  is  chiefly  represented  in  this  province  and  in 
Nova  Scotia  by  areas  of  highly  disturbed,  mainly  vol- 
canic rocks. 

Silurian  rocks  are  widely  spread  in  northern  New 
Brunswick  and  in  the  adjacent  portions  of  Quebec,  oc- 
cupying the  greater  part  of  this  area  which  drains  to  the 
Bay  of  Chaleur.  They  recur  in  the  southern  p^,rt  of  New 
Brunswick  and  in  the  northern  part  of  Nova  Scotia,  and 
though  comprising  limestones,  calcareous  shales  and 
sandstones,  are  often  greatly  intermixed  with'  con- 
temporaneous volcanic  material. 

Devonian  strata,  only  sparingly  represented  in  south- 
eastern Quebec,  are  extensively  developed  in  Gaspe, 
where  this  system  has  yielded  a  section  of  about  9,000 


114  THE  GEOLOGY 

feet,  of  which  the  lower  2,000  feet  are  largely  of  marine, 
calcareous  strata,  while  the  upper  portion  is  chiefly  of 
sandstone  and  conglomerates  containing  a  remarkably 
rich  flora.  About  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  rocks 
of  this  age  have  yielded  many  interesting  fish  remains, 
comparing  closely  with  those  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone. 
Somewhat  analogous  conditions  appear  to  hold  elsewhere 
in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  while,  at  times,  the  lower  part 
of  the  Devonian  in  Nova  Scotia  is  represented  by  fossilif- 
erous  limestones  with  iron  ore. 

While  during  Devonian  times  a  large  part  of  the  Ap- 
palachian Region  appears  to  have  been  a  basin  of  deposi- 
tion, the  period  was  also  marked  by  extensive  invasions 
of  plutonic  rocks,  chiefly  granites,  in  south-eastern 
Quebec,  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia.  Towards  the 
close  of  the  Devonian,  or  in  early  Carboniferous  times, 
the  activities  of  the  mountain  building  forces  in  this 
region  seem  to  have  culminated,  and  over  extensive  areas 
the  Carboniferous  and  Permian  strata  still  occur  in  nearly 
horizontal  beds. 

The  Carboniferous  system,  both  from  its  extent  and 
because  of  its  economic  value,  must  be  considered  as  one 
of  the  most  important  features  of  Nova  Scotia  and  New 
Brunswick,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  much 
larger  tracts  of  this  formation  still  lie  beneath  the 
waters  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Atlantic. 
Its  total  thickness  is,  in  some  parts  of  Nova  Scotia,  esti- 
mated at  16,000  feet,  but  it  is  very  irregular  in  this  re- 
spect and  over  the  greater  part  of  New  Brunswick  is 
comparatively  thin.  At  the  Joggins,  on  the  north  arm  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  is  a  remarkable  continuous  section 
showing  14,570  feet  of  strata,  including  seventy  seams 
of  coal.  From  beds  in  this  section  numerous  specimens 
of  a  land-inhabiting  reptilian  fauna  have  been  described. 
The  flora  of  the  period  is  well  represented  in  many  places, 
particularly  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  includes  that  of  several 
distinct  stages,  beginning  with  the  Horton  group  at  the 


OF  CANADA  115 

base  (comparable  with  the  "calciferous  sandstone"  of 
Scotland)  and  at  the  top  containing  so  many  forms  re- 
ferable to  the  Permian  that  the  name  Permo-Carbon- 
iferous  has  been  applied  to  this  part  of  the  section. 

Several  local  unconformities  have  been  determined  in 
different  parts  of  this  great  succession  of  beds.  With 
the  marine  limestones  important  deposits  of  gypsum  are 
found.  The  workable  coal  seams  occur  in  what  is  called 
the  Middle  Carboniferous,  and  some  of  these,  in  the  Pic- 
tou  district,  are  of  unusual  thickness.  Coal  mining  is 
actively  in  progress  in  Cumberland  and  Pictou  counties 
and  in  Cape  Breton,  the  total  annual  output  being  be- 
tween six  and  seven  million  tons.  In  New  Brunswick 
the  productive  area  for  coal  appears  to  be  small,  and  the 
seams  so  far  found  are  of  inconsiderable  thickness. 

Triassic  measures  occur  along  the  greater  part  of  the 
Nova  Scotia  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  by  dikes  and  cut 
sills  of  diabase  or  overlain  by  thick  sheets  of  the  same 
material.  Similar,  but  much  less  extensive  beds,  occur 
on  the  opposite,  New  Brunswick,  shore.  From  Triassic 
times  onwards  to  the  Glacial  period  the  Appalachian 
Region  of  Canada  appears  to  have  been  continuously 
elevated,  undergoing  denudation,  and  perhaps  during 
the  Cretaceous  period  the  eastern  part  was  pene-planated. 
Some  facts  respecting  the  glacial  deposits  of  the  Appalac- 
hian Region  are  given  on  a  later  page,  with  general  state- 
ments relating  to  this  period  in  Eastern  Canada 

To  complete  this  very  brief  review  of  the  geology  of 
what  has  been  called  the  Appalachian  Region  it  now  only 
remains  to  add  a  few  words  concerning  that  main  line  of 
uplift  and  disturbance  the  course  of  which  was  first 
traced  through  the  Province  of  Quebec,  from  the  vicinity 
of  Lake  Champlain  to  Gaspe.  This  structurally  compli- 
cated belt  of  country  has  been  the  subject  of  much  con- 
troversy, and  possesses  a  literature  of  its  own.  It  is 
bounded  to  the  north-westward  by  an  important  disloca- 
tion or  break,  known  as  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Champlain 


116  THE  GEOLOGY 

fault,  which  may  be  traced  from  Lake  Champlain  to 
Quebec  City  and  thence  follows  the  estuary  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  probably  running  to  the  south  of  Anticosti. 
To  the  west  of  this  line  are  the  flat-lying  Ordovician 
strata  of  the  St.  Lawrence  plain,  chiefly  limestones,  and 
doubtless  resting  upon  a  strong  shelf  of  the  Laurentian 
nucleus  at  no  great  depth.  Against  this  stable  edge  the 
eastern  strata  have  been  folded,  faulted  and  ridged  up  by 
the  forces  which  produced  the  Appalachian  range.  Were 
this  all,  a  careful  study  of  the  beds  on  the  two  sides  of 
the  line  would  readily  show  their  identity ;  but  it  appears 
that  previous  to  the  great  epoch  of  disturbance  the 
original  physical  conditions  themselves  differed.  To  the 
west  a  sheltered  sea  came  into  existence  about  the  close 
of  the  Cambrian  period,  in  which  Ordovician  strata,  in 
large  part  limestones,  were  laid  down.  To  the  east  sedi- 
mentation began  much  earlier,  and  the  circumstances  of 
deposition  were  different  and  more  varied.  Even  the 
animal  life  present  in  the  two  districts  was  largely  dis- 
similar at  the  same  period.  Thus  it  was  not  until  much 
study  and  thought  had  been  given  to  the  problem  that 
Logan  was  enabled  to  affirm  the  equivalency  of  a  great 
part  of  the  strata  on  the  two  sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  Champlain  fault.  To  those  on  the  east,  differing  in 
composition  and  fauna  from  the  rocks  of  the  typical  New 
York  section,  he  applied  the  name  "Quebec  Group." 
Subsequent  investigations  have  shown,  however,  that  in 
the  ridging  up  of  this  part  of  the  Appalachian  region  not 
onlv  are  some  verv  old  Cambrian  rocks  brought  to  the 
surface,  but  considerable  areas  of  crystalline  schists, 
which  are  evidently  pre-Cambrian. 

The  Appalachian  Region  in  Canada,  as  in  the  United 
States,  is  productive  of  minerals.  In  the  eastern  town- 
ships of  Quebec  are  the  celebrated  asbestos  deposits  that 
furnish  90  per  cent,  of  the  world's  supply.  Chromite, 
copper  and  iron  pyrites  are  also  mined  in  this  region. 
Considerable  placer  gold  has  been  recovered.  In  Nova 


OF  CANADA  117 

Scotia  are  some  of  the  principal  coal  mines  of  Canada, 
notably  at  Sydney,  Port  Hood,  Mabou,  Inverness, 
Chimney  Cove,  Pictou,  Cumberland  and  Joggins.  Gold 
has  been  produced  for  over  forty  years.  Antimony,  tin 
and  tungsten  are  also  receiving  attention.  Iron  ore  has 
been  mined  for  many  years.  Manganese  ore  occurs  in 
both  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick,  sometimes  of 
exceptional  purity.  Gypsum  occurs  in  large  bodies  up 
to  150  feet  in  thickness,  and  is  extensively  worked.  Bi- 
tuminous shales,  rich  in  oil,  and  ammounium  sulphate 
are  found  in  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia.  Whet- 
stones and  building  material  of  excellent  quality  are 
found  in  abundance. 

Lowlands  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley.  The  tract  of 
country ,  which  it  is  found  convenient  to  include  under 
this  name,  comprises  but  a  small  part  of  the  hydrographic 
basin  of  the  great  river,  which  in  all  is  about  530,000 
square  rniles  in  extent.  Although  not  altogether  un- 
interrupted, it  is  clearly  enough  defined  in  a  general  way 
by  the  edge  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  on  the  north,  the 
Appalachian  highlands  to  the  south-east,  and  on  the 
south,  further  west,  by  the  line  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
and  the  lower  members  of  the  svstem  of  the  Great  Lakes. 
It  may  be  described  as  extending  from  a  short  distance 
below  the  city  of  Quebec  to  Lake  Huron,  with  a  length  of 
over  600  miles  and  an  area  of  more  than  35,000  square 
miles,  all  of  which  may  be  regarded  as  fertile  arable  land 
— the  greatest  connected  area  of  such  land  in  Eastern 
Canada. 

These  lowlands  are  based  upon  nearly  horizontal 
strata,  ranging  in  age  from  the  latest  Cambrian  to  the 
Devonian.  On  a  geological  map  its  limits  are  readilv 
observable,  but  in  order  to  understand  its  character  it  is 
necessary  to  consider  it  somewhat  more  closely,  and 
under  such  scrutinv  it  is  found  to  break  up  naturally 
into  three  parts.  The  first  of  these  lies  partly  in  Quebec 
and  partly  in  Ontario,  extending  west  along  the  St. 


US  THE  GEOLOGY 

Lawrence  and  its  great  tributary,  the  Ottawa,  to  a  north- 
and-south  line  drawn  about  twenty-five  miles  west  of  the 
city  of  Ottawa,  or  somewhat  past  the  76th  meridian.  It 
is  here  interrupted  by  a  projecting,  but  not  bold,  spur  of 
the  Laurentian  plateau,  which  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence 
at  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  forming  there  the 
Thousand  Islands,  and  runs  southward  to  join  the  large 
pre-Cambrian  tract  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  State  of 
New  York.  This  eastern  division,  with  an  area  of 
11,400  square  miles,  constitutes  what  may  be  called  the 
St.  Lawrence  plain  proper.  Much  of  its  surface  is  almost 
absolutely  level,  and  it  nowhere  exceeds  a  few  hundred 
feet  in  elevation  above  the  sea,  although  a  few  bold 
igneous  hills  stand  out  in  an  irregular  line,  with  heights 
of  500  to  1,800  feet.  Mount  Royal,  at  Montreal,  is  one 
of  these,  and  from  it  all  the  others  are  in  sight,  while  the 
Laurentian  highlands  may  also  be  seen  thirty  miles  to 
the  north,  and  to  the  southward  the  Green  Mountains 
and  Adirondacks,  forming  the  boundary  of  the  plain  in 
that  direction,  are  apparent  on  a  clear  day. 

Beyond  the  projecting  spur  of  ancient  crystalline  rocks 
above  referred  to,  from  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Ontario, 
near  Kingston,  to  Georgian  Bay  of  Lake  Huron,  the 
southern  edge  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  runs,  in  a  slightly 
sinuous  line,  nearly  due  west  for  200  miles.  Between 
this  edge  and  Lake  Ontario  on  the  south  lies  a  second 
great  tract  of  plain,  the  lowest  parts  of  which  may  be 
considered  as  level  with  Lake  Ontario  (246  feet),  but  of 
which  no  part  exceeds  1,000  feet  above  the  sea.  This 
plain  is  naturally  bounded  to  the  south  and  west  by  the 
rather  bold  escarpment  of  the  Niagara  limestone,  which, 
after  giving  rise  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara  between  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie,  runs  across  this  part  of  the  Province 
of  Ontario  to  Lake  Huron,  forming  there  a  long  pro- 
jecting point  and  continuing  still  further  west,  in  the 
chain  of  the  Manitoulin  Islands.  The  area  of  this  second 
tract  of  plain  is  about  9,700  square  miles.  It  is  scarcely 


OF  CANADA  119 

more  varied  in  its  surface  than  that  to  the  eastward,  and 
throughout  most  of  its  extent  is  a  fertile  farming  country. 

The  third  and  last  subdivision  of  the  lowlands  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  Valley  is  an  area  of  triangular  form,  in- 
cluded between  the  Niagara  escarpment  and  Lakes  Erie 
and  Huron.  This  constitutes  what  is  generally  known 
as  the  Ontario  peninsula,  and  its  south-west  extremity 
touches  the  42nd  parallel,  the  latitude  of  Rome.  The 
area  of  the  Ontario  peninsula  is  14,200  square  miles,  and 
both  in  soil  and  climate  it  is  singularly  favored.  Grapes, 
peaches  and  maize  are  staple  crops  in  many  districts.  To 
the  north  some  tracts  of  this  land  are  high  and  bold,  but 
most  of  its  surface  varies  from  500  to  1,000  feet  above 
the  sea. 

The  geological  features  of  the  lowlands  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  valley  are  comparatively  simple.  The  rocks 
flooring  the  region  lie  either  horizontally  or  at  very  low 
angles  upon  the  spreading  base  of  the  pre-Cambrian  mass 
to  the  northward,  the  crystalline  rocks  of  which  have 
frequently  been  met  with  in  deep  borings.  The  forma- 
tions represented  correspond  closely  with  those  of  the 
New  York  section,  and  the  series,  beginning  with  the 
Potsdam  sandstone,  continues  upward  without  any 
marked  break  to  the  Chemung  or  later  Devonian. 

In  the  first  or  eastern  subdivision  of  this  region,  the 
Potsdam  sandstone,  although  strictly  speaking  referable 
to  the  Upper  Cambrian,  physically  considered  is  really 
the  basal  arenaceous  and  conglomeratic  member  of  the 
Ordovician  series  which  follows.  The  several  members 
of  the  Ordovician  occupy  almost  the  entire  surface,  di- 
versified merely  by  a  few  light  structural  undulations, 
which  in  several  districts  result  in  the  introduction  of 
some  higher  beds  that  are  referred,  although  with  some 
doubt,  to  the  Silurian. 

Passing  to  the  second  or  central  subdivision,  to  the 
west  of  Kingston  all  but  the  lower  Ordovician  formations, 
just  referred  to,  are  found  to  be  repeated,  in  ascending 


120  THE  GEOLOGY 

order,  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  with  very 
similar  characters  and  equally  undisturbed.  The  Tren- 
ton limestone  occupies  the  greatest  area,  extending  in  a 
wide  belt  to  Georgian  Bay  of  Lake  Huron.  Above  this 
lie  the  Utica  shales,  and  over  these  the  Hudson  River 
formation.  This  is  the  highest  member  of  the  Ordovi- 
cian,  but  the  plain  also  overlaps  the  lower  members  of 
the  succeeding  Silurian  system  irregularly,  finding  its 
natural  boundary  from  a  physical  point  of  view  only  at 
the  massive  outcrop  of  the  Niagara  limestone. 

The  course  of  the  escarpement  produced  by  this  out- 
crop has  already  been  traced;  above  it,  and  to  the  south- 
west, lies  the  higher  plain  generally  known  as  the  On- 
tario peninsula,  constituting  the  third  subdivision  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  lowlands.  More  than  half  of  the  area  of 
this  peninsula  is  occupied  by  Devonian  rocks,  which 
succeed  the  Silurian  regularly  in  ascending  order,  the 
highest  beds  being  met  with  in  the  extreme  south-west  of 
Ontario,  beyond  which  they  are  soon  followed  by  the 
Carboniferous  basin  of  the  Michigan  peninsula.  The 
Silurian  and  Devonian  strata  are  affected  only  by  slight 
and  low  undulations,  but  these  are  important  in  connec- 
tion with  the  exploitation  of  the  oil  and  gas  of  the  region. 

Though  not  a  portion  of  the  Laurentian  lowlands, 
mention  may  be  made  at  this  point  of  the  island  of  Anti- 
costi,  lying  in  the  wide  estuary  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The 
island  is  about  140  miles  in  length,  and  consists  of  nearly 
flat-lying  rocks,  chiefly  of  the  Silurian,  with  some  of  Ordo- 
vician  age,  (Hudson  River)  along  its  northern  side.  The 
island  evidently  represents  part  of  a  submerged  and  un- 
disturbed Ordovician  and  Silurian  tract  of  the  northern 
part  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  the  rocks  of  which  differ 
in  some  respects  from  their  representatives  further  to 
the  west,  while  in  some  instances  the  enclosed  fauna  find 
their  closest  analogy  in  the  fauna  of  the  distant  Mani- 
toulin  Islands  of  Lake  Huron.  On  the  mainland,  oppo- 
site to  the  island,  lower  members  of  the  Ordovician  occur, 


Paulson's  Narrows,  Lake  Opasatria 
Typical  Laurent ian  Scenery 


Crumpled  "Ottawa"  Gneiss.  IVontebello,  Quebec 


OF  CANADA  121 

resting  on  the  pre-Cambrian,  while  further  east,  towards 
the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle,  Cambrian  strata  repose  on  the 
ancient  crystalline  rocks. 

In  the  two  eastern  subdivisions  of  the  lowlands  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley,  with  the  exception  of  structural 
materials,  such  as  stone,  lime  and  clay,  minerals  of  eco- 
nomic value  are  scarcely  found,  but  the  clay  and  cement 
industries  are  becoming  highly  important;  but  in  the 
third  or  westernmost  subdivision,  however  in  addition  to 
these,  gypsum,  salt,  petroleum  and  natural  gas  have 
become  important  products.  The  gypsum  and  salt  are 
derived  from  the  Onondaga  formation  of  the  Silurian. 
The  salt  is  obtained  in  the  form  of  brine  from  deep  wells, 
but  beds  of  rock-salt  are  known  to  occur  at  consider- 
able depths.  Petroleum  is  chieflv  derived  from  the 
Corniferous  limestone  of  the  Devonian,  and  natural  gas 
is  obtained  from  several  horizons  in  the  Devonian, 
Silurian  and  Ordovician. 

The  Laurentian  Plateau.  The  great  region  thus  named, 
composed  of  very  ancient  crystalline  rocks,  has  an  area 
of  over  2,000,000  square  miles,  or  more  than  one-half 
that  of  the  entire  Dominion  of  Canada.  In  a  horse-shoe- 
like  form,  open  to  the  north,  it  surrounds  three  sides  of 
the  comparatively  shallow  sea  known  as  Hudson  Bav. 
Its  southern  part  is  divided  between  the  Provinces  of 
Quebec  and  Ontario,  its  eastern  side  expanding  into  the 
Labrador  peninsula,  while  the  western  runs,  with  narrow 
dimensions,  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  west  of  the  great  bay. 

In  geographical  extent  it  is  thus  very  important, 
although  somewhat  monotonous  in  its  physical  and 
geological  features.  It  contributes  little  to  the  fertile 
areas  of  the  country  in  proportion  to  its  size,  but  in  the 
aggregate  comprises  a  considerable  amount  of  land  which 
is  either  cultivated  or  susceptible  of  cultivation.  Else- 
where, in  its  southern  parts,  it  carries  forests  of  great 
value,  and  its  mineral  resources  are  already  known  in 


122  THE  GEOLOGY 

some  places  to  be  very  important.  It  constitutes,  more- 
over, a  gathering  ground  for  many  large  and  almost 
innumerable  small  rivers  and  streams,  which,  in  the 
sources  of  power  they  offer  in  their  descent  to  the  lower 
adjacent  levels,  are  likely  to  prove,  in  the  near  future,  of 
greater  and  more  permanent  value  to  the  industries  of 
the  country  than  an  extensive  coal  field.  Particularly 
notable  from  this  point  of  view  is  the  long  series  of  avail- 
able water  power  which  runs  from  the  Strait  of  Belle 
Isle  nearly  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  coincident  with 
the  southern  border  of  the  plateau. 

Although  it  is  appropriate  to  describe  this  region  as  a 
plateau  or  tableland,  such  terms,  it  must  be  understood, 
are  applicable  only  in  a  very  general  way.  Its  average 
elevation  of  about  1,500  feet  is  notably  greater  than  that 
of  the  adjacent  lands,  and  is  maintained  with  considerable 
regularity,  but  its  surface  is  nearly  everywhere  hum- 
mocky  or  undulating.  Away  from  its  borders,  the 
streams  draining  it  are,  as  a  rule,  extremely  irregular  and 
tortuous,  flowing  from  lake  to  lake  in  almost  every  direc- 
tion, but  assuming  more  direct  and  rapid  courses  in 
deeply  cut  valleys  as  they  eventually  leave  it.  Many  of 
the  surface  features  are  of  very  great  antiquity,  and  in 
Labrador  and  elsewhere  a  number  of  the  larger  valleys 
existed  much  in  their  present  form  long  before  the  Cam- 
brian period. 

The  average  height  of  the  central  parts  of  the  Labrador 
peninsula  is  about  1,700  feet,  and  the  most  of  its  drainage 
is  divided  between  Hudson  Bay,  Ungava  Bay  and  the 
Atlantic  coast,  the  main  watershed  lying  not  very  far  to 
the  north  of  the  St.  Lawrence  estuary  and  gulf.  Along 
the  Atlantic  coast,  to  the  north  of  Hamilton  Inlet,  the 
region  assumes  a  really  mountainous  character,  numerous 
elevations  attaining  3,000  feet  and  some  as  much  as 
5,000  or  6,000  feet.  These  are  the  highest  known  points 
connected  with  any  part  of  the  Laurentian  region,  and 
are  quite  exceptional  in  character. 


OF  CANADA  123 

To  the  south  of  Hudson  Bay  the  watershed  is,  at  least 
in  one  part,  as  low  as  1,000  feet.  North  of  Lake  Winni- 
peg the  Nelson  and  Churchill  Rivers  cro&s  the  Laurentian 
plateau  in  a  wide  depression,  to  reach  Hudson  Bay. 
Still  further  north  this  part  of  the  plateau  has  a  height 
of  over  1,200  feet  above  the  sea. 

Generally  speaking,  the  surface  of  the  plateau  is  barren 
and  rocky,  with  wide,  swampy  tracts,  especially  towards 
the  height  of  land.  To  the  south  and  south-west  of 
Hudson  Bay  it  is  overlapped  by  an  important  area  of 
Silurian  and  Devonian  rocks,  over  which,  and  the  ad- 
jacent parts  of  the  crystalline  rocks,  is  rather  uniformly 
spread  a  mantle  of  boulder  clay  of  two  distinct  ages, 
overlain  by  remnants  of  marine  clay  which  reach  to  a 
height  of  over  450  feet  above  the  level  of  the  bay.  La- 
custrine clays,  deposited  in  the  basins  of  glacial  lakes, 
cover  large  areas,  notably  north-west  of  Lake  Winnipeg 
and  south  of  James  Bay,  where  they  constitute  large 
tracts  of  arable  land  which  will  eventually  be  of  value. 

The  striking  features  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  are 
innumerable  lakes,  large  and  small,  with  intervening 
rounded  rocky  elevations,  wooded  in  their  natural  con- 
ditions to  the  south  but  rising  above  the  tree  line  to  the 
northward,  while  in  the  far  north,  on  both  sides  of  Hud- 
son Bay,  hills  and  valleys  become  eventually  character- 
ized by  grasses,  mosses  and  lichens  alone,  constituting 
the  great  "barren  lands"  of  North  America.  The  rivers 
and  lakes  are  everywhere  well  stocked  with  fish,  while 
deer  and  moose  in  the  southern  parts,  and  to  the  north 
the  caribou,  abound.  Thus,  where  the  region  can  be 
entered  without  undue  difficulty,  it  has  already  become 
a  much  favored  resort  of  the  sportsman. 

The  Laurentian  plateau,  also  known  as  the  Canadian 
Shield  and  as  Laurentia,  is  composed  of  several  groups 
of  rocks.  As  at  present  known,  the  oldest  consists 
largely  of  volcanics,  "greenstones,"  often  schistose,  ac- 
companied by  some  sedimentary  schists,  limestones  and 


124  THE  GEOLOGY 

an  "iron  formation."  This  group,  found  in  northern 
and  western  Ontario,  and  known  as  the  Keewatin,  rests 
on  intrusive  granitic  rocks  that  also  occupy  large  areas 
over  which  they  are  frequentlv  gneissic.  Some  basic 
igneous  rocks  are  also  found  intrusive  in  these  older 
rocks. 

This  whole  assemblage  of  prevailingly  igneous  rocks 
is  characterized  by  its  great  metamorphism.  It  has 
been  subjected  to  intense  disturbances,  regional  in  ex- 
tent. It  formed  a  land  area  whose  surface  was  eroded 
into  hill  and  vale,  very  much  like  the  present  surface  of 
the  Laurentian  plateau,  before  the  next  succeeding,  well 
recognized  system  of  rocks  known  as  the  Huronian  was 
laid  down.  This  svstem  is  largely  sedimentary,  as  the 
preceding  was  largely  igneous;  conglomerates,  slates  and 
quartzites  are  the  characteristic  rocks  of  this  svstem. 
These  relationships  are  best  seen  in  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Temiskaming  regions,  but  over  considerable  districts 
they  have  been  obscured  by  later  intrusions  of  granitic 
rocks. 

The  Huronian  as  it  occurs  in  the  original  locality  on 
the  north  shore  of  Lake  Huron  is  divisible  into  two  por- 
tions, known  as  the  Lower  and  Middle  Huronian. 
Traced  westward  into  the  United  States,  the  Huronian 
svstem  has  been  found  to  be  divisible  into  three  portions, 
of  which  the  upper,  the  Upper  Huronian  or  Animikie,  is 
typically  developed  in  Canada  near  Port  Arthur  on  Lake 
Superior.  Younger  than  the  Animikie,  a  group  of 
sandstones,  conglomerates  and  trap  known  as  the  Ke- 
weenawan  or  Nipigon  system,  is  well  developed  near 
Lake  Nipigon,  north  of  Lake  Superior.  The,  age  of  these 
rocks  is  generally  supposed  to  be  pre-Cambrian,  though 
by  some  held  to  be  Lower  Cambrian. 

In  eastern  Ontario  and  the  adjoining  portions  of 
Quebec  the  pre-Cambrian  rocks  consist  of  a  distinctly 
stratified  series  of  limestones  and  other  sedimentary 


OF  CANADA 


125 


rocks,  usually  highly  altered  and  crystalline,  with  a 
second  series  of  more  gneissic  intrusive  rocks,  whose 
apparent  bedding  is  really  a  foliation  due  to  pressure  and 
which  frequently  pass  into  granites  by  imperceptible 
gradations.  The  first  of  these  is  known  as  the  Gren- 
ville  series,  the  second  has  been  termed  the  Fundamental 
or  Ottawa  Gneiss. 

Sir  William  Logan,  who  studied  the  "Fundamental" 
(Ottawa)  Gneiss,  the  Grenville  series  and  the  Huronian, 
recognized  the  great  unconformity  between  the  Huronian 
and  the  older  rocks  and  the  metamorphosed  character  of 
the  latter  as  contrasted  with  the  comparatively  un- 
altered, distinctly  sedimentary  nature  of  the  former.  He 
therefore  divided  the  pre-Palaeozoic  rocks  into  Huronian , 
which  he  defined  as  embracing  the  pre-Cambrian  above 
this  unconformity,  and  Laurentian,  which  embraced 
everything  below. 

An  international  committee  on  nomenclature,  repre- 
senting Canadian  and  American  geologists,  has  recom- 
mended the  following  classification  of  the  pre-Cambrian. 
Opposite  is  placecl  a  classification  based  on  Logan's  and 
in  general  agreement  with  the  use  of  the  terms  in  the 
reports  of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey,  though  in 
reconnaisance  work  the  distinction  between  Keewatin 
and  Huronian  has  not  always  been  observed. 

(For  the  Lake  Superior  Region) 


Keweenawan 
unconformity 

/   Upper 

\       unconformity 
Huronian  -;    Middle 

i       unconformity 
V  Lower 
unconformity 
Keewatin 

intrusive  contact 
Laurentian 

(For  Eastern  Ontario) 
Grenville  (Hastings) 

intrusive  contact 
Laurentian 


Keweenawan 
unconformity 

C  Upper  (Animikie) 
\       unconformity 
Huronian  <   Middle 

I       unconformity 
'    \  Lower 
unconformity 

Keewatin 


(Hastings — 
f  Grenville — 


<        intrusive  contact 

(    "  Fundamental  "  (Ottawa)  Gneis 


In  reference  to  the  above  table,  it  may  be  stated  that 


126  THE  GEOLOGY 

the  Laurentian  as  defined  by  the  International  Committee 
is  restricted  to  the  pre-Huronian  granites  and  gneisses, 
and  that  the  relationships  between  Grenville  and  Kee- 
watin,  owing  to  their  geographical  distribution,  is  not 
yet  established. 

The  greater  part  of  the  great  Laurentian  plateau, 
following  the  usage  of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey, 
may  be  represented  as  Laurentian,  since  it  is  dominantly 
underlain  by  granite  rocks  or  their  gneissic  modifications, 
Keewatin  or  the  Grenville  series  as  found  in  their  typical 
localities.  But  throughout  this  vast  region  are  many 
areas,  'often  of  considerable  extent,  occupied  by  Hu- 
ronian  and,  possibly,  Keweenawan  rocks.  Both  east 
and  west  of  Hudson  Bay  rocks  similar  to  the  Animikie 
characterize  considerable  districts,  and  in  the  far  north, 
west  of  Hudson  Bay,  are  areas  of  rocks  probably  referable 
to  the  Keweenawan. 

Though  the  region  of  the  Canadian  Shield  was,  during 
pre-Cambrian  time,  the  seat  of  repeated  widespread 
disturbances  and  invasions  of  plutonic  rocks,  amongst 
which  the  extensive  bodies  of  anorthosite  distributed 
along  the  south-western  border  of  the  region  and  the 
varied  alkali  and  nephiline  syenites  of  Eastern  Ontario 
are  especially  notable,  yet,  since  earliest  Palaeozoic 
times  the  region  does  not  appear  to  have  been  affected 
by  regional  disturbances,  nor  does  there  appear  to  have 
been  even  local  intrusions  of  igneous  rocks. 

The  rocks  of  the  pre-Cambrian  are  remarkable  for 
the  variety  of  useful  and  valuable  minerals  they  contain. 
Iron,  copper,  nickel,  cobalt, -silver,  gold,  platinum,  lead, 
zinc,  arsenic,  pyrite,  mica,  apatite,  graphite,  molyb- 
denite, feldspar,  corundum,  talc,  actinolite,  the  rare 
earths,  ornamental  stones  and  gems,  building  materials, 
all  are  found,  and  most  of  them  are  being  or  have  been 
profitably  mined. 

In  the  tongue  of  these  rocks,  which  in  the  Lake 
Superior  region  extends  into  the  United  States,  are  the 


OF  CANADA  127 

great  iron  ranges,  which  have  produced  400  million  tons 
of  ore,  and  which  are  expected  to  furnish  1,500  million 
tons  more;  and  here  also  are  the  great  Lake  Superior 
copper  mines  that  have  produced  four  and  a  half  billion 
pounds  of  copper  and  are  still  increasing  their  annual 
production.  The  fringe  of  the  Laurentian  plateau  that 
is  explored  in  Canada  has  also  been  prolific.  Near  Sud- 
bury  are  the  greatest  nickel  mines  in  the  world,  and  in 
the  Cobalt-Montreal  River  district  what  promises  to  be 
one  of  the  greatest  silver  districts.  Iron  ore  formation, 
which  occurs  in  the  Keewatin,  Lower  and  Upper  Hu- 
ronian,  occurs  in  patches  throughout  the  whole  extent 
of  Northern  Ontario  into  Quebec.  Iron  ores  are  also 
found  in  Eastern  Ontario  and  Quebec.  Copper  is  im- 
portant in  the  nickel  deposits,  and  is  also  found  in 
separate  deposits.  Mica  is  an  important  product  in 
Eastern  Ontario  and  Quebec.  Some  of  the  deposits  are 
probably  unexcelled  anywhere.  The  corrundum  deposits 
of  Eastern  Ontario  are  unique.  Gold  has  been  mined  in 
Eastern  Ontario  and  in  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  district. 
Feldspar  and  pyrite  mining  is  important.  In  the  far 
north,  explorers  report  occurrences  of  much  the  same 
minerals  as  known  along  the  southern  fringe  of  the 
Laurentian  plateau. 

The  Arctic  Archipelago.  The  islands  of  the  Arctic 
archipelago  extend  from  the  north  side  of  Hudson  Bay 
and  Hudson  Strait  for  a  distance  of  1,500  miles,  while 
their  greatest  extension  east  and  west  is  along  the  73rd 
parallel,  a  distance  of  500  miles.  The  total  area  of  these 
northern  islands  is  well  over  500,000  square  miles,  of 
which  Baffin  Island,  the  largest,  occupies  about  200,000 
square  miles. 

Though  naturally  much  diversified  in  their  physical 
aspects,  the  Arctic  Islands  are  characterized  in  the  east, 
in  Baffin,  North  Devon  and  Ellesmere  Islands  by  a 
general  tableland  rising  to  elevations  of  2,000  to  3,000 


128  THE  GEOLOGY 

feet,  but  increasing  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  Baffin 
Island  to  5,000  feet,  with  hills  rising  perhaps  one  or 
two  thousand  feet  higher,  while  in  the  northern  part  of 
Ellesmere  Islands  isolated  mountain  peaks  reach  nearly 
to  5,000  feet.  Westward  of  Ellesmere  Island  the  general 
elevations  of  the  islands  of  the  Parry  and  Sverdrup 
groups  lie  below  1,000  feet.  The  large  islands  lying 
along  the  border  of  the  continental  land,  south  of  the 
preceding  groups  and  west  of  Baffin  Island,  have  general 
elevations  of  usually  less  than  500  feet,  though  in  the 
westernmost  island,  Banks  Island,  the  general  elevation 
is  above  1,000  feet,  while  the  southern  part  reached  an 
altitude  of  3,000  feet. 

The  greater  part  of  Baffin  Island  is  occupied  by  pre- 
Cambrian  rocks  resembling  those  of  the  Labrador  penin- 
sula, which  extend  on  northward  through  North 
Devon  and  Ellesmere  Islands.  Virtually,  the  pre- 
Cambrian  rocks  of  Baffin  and  the  adjoining  islands  to 
the  west  occupy  an  area  which,  with  the  U-shaped 
Laurerttian  plateau,  entirely  encloses  Hudson  Bay. 

Save  in  the  extreme  north,  on  Ellesmere  Island  where 
Cambrian  rocks  passing  up  into  Ordovician  rest  on  the 
pre-Cambrian,  there  is  usually  a  considerable  time  break 
in  the  geological  sequence  between  the  ancient  crystalline 
rocks  and  the  earliest  Palaeozoic  measures,  usually  of 
Ordovician  age.  Parts  of  the  western  portion  of  Baffin 
Island  and  of  the  islands  to  the  west,  including  Victoria 
Island,  are  largely  occupied  by  limestones  of  Ordovician 
and  Silurian  age.  Banks  Island  still  further  west  and 
the  Parry  Group  to  the  north,  and  the  islands  north  of 
Lancaster  Sound,  are  occupied  by  Devonian  and  Car- 
boniferous strata,  as  well  as  older  formations,  while  the 
Sverdrup  group  is  largely  of  Mesozoic  strata.  Isolated 
patches  of  lignite-bearing  Tertiary  beds  occur  on  the 
coast  of  Baffin  Island  and  elsewhere. 

Mention  mav  here  be  made  of  the  extensive  Palaeozoic 
basin  of  flat-lying  measures  bordering  the  southern 


OF  CANADA  129 

shores  of  Hudson  Bay  from  the  north  of  the  Churchill 
River  eastward  to  the  foot  of  James  Bay,  a  distance  of 
about  800  miles.  This  relatively  narrow  basin  extends 
south-westward  of  James  Bay  to  within  120  miles  of 
Lake  Superior.  South  of  James  Bay  the  area  is  largely 
occupied  by  Devonian  beds,  with  an  interrupted  fringe 
of  Silurian  and  sometimes  Ordovician  measures.  West- 
ward of  James  Bay  the  strata  are  largely  Silurian,  bor- 
dered over  considerable  areas  to  the  south  by  Ordovician. 
Palaeontological  evidence  suggests  a  former  connection 
on  the  one  hand  with  the  Palaeozoic  basin  of  the  Arctic 
Islands,  and  on  the  other  with  the  ancient  inland  sea  at 
one  time  occupying  Manitoba.  Also,  in  the  Devonian 
times  at  least,  it  seems  probable  that  a  Palaeozoic  sea 
stretched  southward  from  James  Bay  to  the  region  of 
the  Great  Lakes. 

Glaciation  of  Eastern  Canada.  Something  may  be 
added  here  on  the  events  of  the  glacial  period  as  affecting 
the  eastern  part  of  Canada  as  a  whole,  although  many 
points  connected  with  this  particular  period  still  remain 
uncertain  and  the  subject  of  debate.  Like  the  Scandi- 
navian peninsula,  the  Laurentian  plateau  at  one  stage  in 
the  glacial  period  apparently  became  the  seat  of  a  great 
confluent  ice-sheet,  which,  when  at  its  maximum,  flowed 
down  from  it  in  all  directions  in  general  conformity  with 
its  main  slopes.  Climatic  conditions  and  relatively 
local  physical  features  may  have  conspired  to  render 
the  discharge  of  glacial  ice  more  important  in  some  direc- 
tions than  in  others,  and  it  is  even  possible  that  at  no 
single  time  was  the  whole  extent  of  the  plateau  equally 
ice-clad.  To  this  continental  ice-sheet  the  name  Lauren- 
tian glacier  has  been  given,  and  as  there  is  reason  to 
believe  that  at  times,  probably  both  at  the  beginning 
and  near  the  close  of  the  glacial  period,  there  were  two 
principal  subordinate  centres  of  distribution,  one  to  the 
west,  the  other  to  the  east  of  Hudson  Bay;  to  these  the 


130  THE  GEOLOGY 

names  Keewatin  and  Labradorian  glacier  have  been 
given. 

During  the  whole  of  this  period  the  Laurentian  plateau 
was  in  the  main  an  area  of  denudation.  From  it  the 
surface  material  was  carried  away  in  all  directions,  even 
to  the  northward,  for  there  is  absolutely  no  evidence 
that  any  "polar  ice-sheet"  ever  trenched  upon  the  con- 
tinent of  North  America.  The  generally  bare  ice-scored 
rocky  surface  of  these  highlands  is  evidence  of  this 
denudation,  while  the  existence  of  broken,  angular 
masses  of  unmoved  local  debris  in  the  central  part  of 
Labrador  and  in  the  central  area  of  the  Keewatin  glacier 
shows  that  across  these  neutral  gathering-grounds  no 
ice  ever  passed. 

As  to  the  distance  to  which  the  solid  glacier-ice  came 
southward  from  the  Laurentian  plateau,  the  evidence 
with  respect  to  the  Labradorian  glacier  is  yet  incon- 
clusive. Neither  is  it  certain  at  how  many  times  or  to 
what  extent  the  glacial  period  was  interrupted  by  rela- 
tively warm  epochs,  but  it  may  be  stated  that  the  flora 
of  at  least  one  of  these  interglacial  epochs,  as  represented 
in  the  vicinity  of  Toronto,  is  such  as  to  indicate  a  climate 
fully  as  warm  as  that  at  present  existing,  during  which 
it  seems  improbable  that  much,  if  any,  glacier-ice  could 
have  persisted  on  the  Laurentian  highlands. 

These  problems  cannot  be  discussed  here,  but  it  is 
certain  that  towards  the  decline  of  the  glacial  period, 
the  region  of  the  Great  Lakes  was  occupied  by  a  succes- 
sion of  fresh-water  basins,  presumably  impounded  by 
the  northward,  retreating  edge  of  the  continental  glacier. 
The  evidence  of  the  former  existence  of  these  lakes  is 
furnished  by  numerous  beaches,  such  as  the  Iroquois 
and  Algonquin  beach;  somewhat  analogous,  high-level 
beaches  also  exist  in  the  valley  of  the  lower  St.  Law- 
rence. As  a  result,  southern  Ontario  is  covered  by 
deposits  of  till,  glacial  clays,  glacial  lake  clays,  etc. 

After  the   final   disappearance   of  the  ice-sheet,   the 


Foothill    Types,  Al  bert; 


Selkirk  Types 


OF  CANADA  131 

eastern  part  of  Canada,  as  a  whole,  stood  at  a  relatively 
low  level.  Without  quoting  in  detail  the  heights  to 
which  the  sea  is  known  to  have  reached  at  this  time  in 
various  places,  it  may  be  stated  that  it  invaded  the  St. 
Lawrence  valley  as  far  at  least  as  Lake  Ontario.  De- 
posits holding  marine  shells  of  sub-arctic  type  have  been 
found  at  Montreal  to  a  height  of  560  feet,  and  near 
Ottawa  to  a  height  of  470  feet.  As  a  result  of  the  cir- 
cumstances noted,  the  St.  Lawrence  plain  as  far  west  as 
Ottawa,  and  nearly  to  Kingston  on  Lake  Ontario,  is 
deeply  covered  by  deposits  due  to  the  glacial  period, 
including  boulder-clay,  Leda  clay,  and  an  overlying 
Sazicava  sand,  the  two  last  often  full  of  fossil  shells  of 
the  period.  In  the  coastal  regions  of  the  maritime  pro- 
vinces similar  deposits  occur,  to  which  the  same  names 
have  been  extended,  but  to  the  west,  around  the  Great 
Lakes,  no  marine  forms  have  been  found. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  it  may  be  noted  that  it  is 
doubtful  if  the  Laurentide  glacier  in  the  east  ever  crossed 
the  Gaspe  peninsula.  In  New  Brunswick  and  adjacent 
parts  of  the  State  of  Maine,  during  some  part  of  the 
glacial  period,  a  separate,  small  gathering  ground  of  ice 
existed,  which  has  been  called  the  Appalachian  glacier. 
The  Magdalen  Islands,  in  the  centre  of  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  appear  never  to  have  been  glaciated,  and  it  is 
at  least  a  matter  of  doubt  whether  any  ice,  except  that 
originating  on  the  peninsula  itself,  ever  passed  ovei 
Nova  Scotia. 

The  Interior  Continental  Plain.  This  is  bounded  on 
the  west  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  running  about  north- 
north-west,  and  on  the  east  by  the  edge  of  the  Laurentian 
plateau,  which,  taking  a  more  westerly  direction  than 
the  mountains,  causes  the  gradual  narrowing  of  the  inter- 
vening plain  to  the  north.  Thus  on  the  49th  parallel, 
here  constituting  the  southern  boundary  of  Canada,  the 
plain  has  a  width  of  about  800  miles;  but  it  is  reduced  to 


132  THE  GEOLOGY 

less  than  400  miles  on  the  56th  parallel.  North  of  the 
62nd  parallel  it  is  greatly  narrowed,  the  surface  becomes 
more  irregular,  and  is  broken  by  several  narrow  mountain 
ranges  paralleling  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  southern  part  of  the  great  plain  is  much  the  most 
important  from  an  economic  point  of  view,  and  is  also 
that  about  which  most  is  known.  It  includes  the  wide 
prairie  country  of  the  Canadian  west,  with  a  spread  of 
about  193,000  square  miles  of  open  grass-land,  an  area 
more  than  twice  that  of  Great  Britain.  Beyond  the 
North  Saskatchewan  River  the  plain  becomes  essentially 
a  region  of  forest,  with  only  occasional  prairie  tracts, 
such  as  those  of  the  Peace  River  valley.  By  chance, 
rather  than  by  intention,  the  boundary  line  of  the  49th 
parallel,  to  the  west  of  the  Red  River,  nearly  coincides 
with  the  low  watershed  which  separates  the  arid  drainage- 
basin  of  the  Missouri  from  that  of  the  Saskatchewan  and 
its  tributaries,  cutting  off  only  20,000  square  miles  from 
the  Missouri  slope.  Another  line,  nearly  coinciding 
with  a  second  low,  transverse  watershed,  may  be  drawn 
on  the  54th  parallel.  The  watershed  crosses  this  line 
several  times,  but  in  the  main  it  may  be  taken  as  di- 
viding the  Saskatchewan  system  of  rivers  from  those  of 
the  Mackenzie  and  the  Churchill.  The  belt  of  country 
comprised  between  these  latitude  lines  is  350  miles  wide, 
with  a  total  area  of  about  295,000  square  miles. 

The  whole  interior  plain  slopes  eastward  or  north- 
eastward, from  the  Rocky  Mountains  towards  the  foot 
of  the  Laurentian  highlands,  so  that  a  line  drawn  from 
the  base  of  the  mountains  near  the  49th  parallel  to  Lake 
Winnipeg  shows  an  average  descent  of  over  five  feet  to 
the  mile,  fully  accounting  for  the  generally  rapid  courses 
of  the  rivers  of  the  region.  There  are,  however,  in  the 
area  to  the  south  of  the  54th  parallel  two  lines  of  escarp- 
ment or  more  abrupt  slope,  which  serve  to  divide  this 
part  of  the  plain  into  three  portions,  and  although  such 


OF  CANADA  133 

a  division  is  by  no  means  definite,  it  may  usefully  be 
alluded  to  for  purposes  of  description. 

The  first  or  lowest  prairie-level  is  that  of  the  Red  River 
valley,  of  which  the  northern  part  is  occupied  by  the 
Winnipeg  group  of  lakes,  its  average  elevation  being 
about  800  feet  above  the  sea,  although  gradually  rising 
to  the  southward,  along  the  axis  of  the  valley,  till  it 
reaches  a  height  of  960  feet  about  200  miles  to  the  south 
of  the  International  boundary.  Its  area  in  Canada  is 
about  55,000  square  miles,  including  the  lakes,  and  to 
the  south  of  Lake  Winnipeg  it  comprises  some  7,000 
square  miles  of  prairie  land,  which  to  the  eye  is  abso- 
lutely flat,  although  rising  uniformly  to  the  east  and 
west  of  the  river.  This  is  the  former  bed  of  the  glacial 
"Lake  Agassiz,"  the  sediments  of  which  constitute  the 
richest  wheat  lands  of  Manitoba. 

The  escarpment  bounding  the  plain  on  the  west  begins 
at  the  south  in  what  is  known  as  "  Pembina  Mountain," 
and  is  continued  northward  in  the  Riding,  Duck,  Porcu- 
pine and  Pasquia  Hills,  which  overlook  Manitoba  and 
Winnipegosis  Lakes,  constituting  the  main  eastern  out- 
crop of  the  Cretaceous  rocks  of  the  plains.  From  this 
escarpment  the  second  prairie-level  extends  westward  to 
a  second  and  nearly  parallel  marked  rise,  which,  in 
general,  is  known  as  the  Missouri  Coteau.  The  area  of 
this  plain  is  about  105,000  square  miles,  of  which  more 
than  half  is  open  prairie.  Its  average  elevation  is  about 
1,600  feet,  and  its  surface  is  more  diversified  bv  undula- 
tions and  low  hills  and  ridges  than  that  of  the  last,  while 
the  river- valleys  are  often  deeply  cut  as  well  as  wide. 
The  greater  part  of  the  surface  is  well  adapted  for  agri- 
culture, although  in  places  the  scarcity  of  trees  consti- 
tutes a  disadvantage.  The  character  of  the  soil  is  also 
more  varied  than  that  of  the  lower  plain. 

The  third  and  highest  plain,  lying  between  the  last 
and  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  may  be  stated  to 
have  an  average  height  of  3,000  feet,  with  an  area, 


134     ..  THE  GEOLOGY 

between  the  parallels  of  latitude  referred  to,  of  about 
134,000  square  miles,  of  which  by  far  the  greater  part 
is  absolutely  devoid  of  forest,  its  wooded  area  being 
confined  to  its  northern  and  north-western  edges,  near 
the  North  Saskatchewan  River  or  its  tributaries.  The 
surface  of  this  plain  is  still  more  irregular  than  that  of 
the  last,  and  it  is  evident  that  both  before  and  after  the 
glacial  period  the  denuding  forces  of  rain  and  rivers 
have  acted  upon  it  longer  and  more  energetically. 
Table-lands  like  those  of  the  Cypress  Hills  and  Wood 
Mountain  must  be  regarded  as  outlying  remnants  of  an 
older  plain  of  the  Tertiary  period,  and  the  slopes  and 
flanks  of  such  outliers  show  that  similar  processes  of 
waste  are  still  in  operation,  adding  to  the  length  and 
depth  of  the  ravines  and  "coulees,"  by  which  the  soft 
Cretaceous  and  Tertiary  rocks  are  trenched.  The  de- 
posits of  the  glacial  period,  with  which  even  this  high 
plain  is  thickly  covered,  have  tended  to  modify  the 
minor  asperities  resulting  from  previous  denudation. 
The  soil  is  generally  good,  and  often  excellent,  but  large 
tracts  to  the  south  and  west  are  sub-arid  in  character; 
these,  while  suited  naturally  rather  for  pasturage  than 
for  ordinary  agriculture,  are  easily  rendered  fertile  by 
irrigation,  and  are  also  responding  to  the  methods  of 
"dry  farming."  Along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains is  a  belt  of  "foot-hills,"  forming  a  peculiar  and 
picturesque  region,  of  which  the  parallel  ridges  are  due 
to  the  differing  hardness  of  the  Cretaceous  rocks,  here 
thrown  into  wave-like  folds,  as  though  crushed  against 
the  resistant  mass  of  the  older  strata  of  the  mountains. 
Taken  as  a  whole,  the  central  plain  of  the  continent 
in  Canada  may  be  regarded  as  a  great  shallow  trough, 
of  which,  owing  doubtless  to  post-Tertiary  differential 
uplift,  the  western  part  of  the  floor  is  now  higher  in 
actual  elevation  than  its  eastern  Laurentian  rim.  But 
although  thus  remarkably  simple  and  definite  in  its 
£rand  plan,  there  are  many  irregularities  in  detail.  The 


OF  CANADA  135 

second  prairie-level  has,  for  instance,  some  elevations 
on  its  surface  as  high  as  the  edge  of  the  third  plain,  both 
to  the  west  and  east  of  the  valley  of  the  Assiniboine 
River,  which,  again,  is  abnormally  depressed.  It  is  not 
possible  here  to  do  more  than  characterize  its  features 
in  a  general  way. 

Ever  since  an  early  Palaeozoic  time,  the  area  now 
occupied  by  the  interior  plain  appears  to  have  remained 
undisturbed,  and  to  have  been  affected  only  by  wide 
movements  of  subsidence  or  elevation,  which,  although 
doubtless  unequal  as  between  its  different  parts,  have 
not  materially  affected  the  regularity  of  the  strata  laid 
down.  Upon  this  portion  of  the  continental  platform, 
in  its  eastern  parts  on  Lake  Winnipeg  and  its  associated 
lakes,  Ordovician,  Silurian  and  Devonian  rocks  are  found 
outcropping  along  the  stable  base  of  the  Laurentian 
plateau.  Following  this  line  of  outcrop  northward,  the 
Devonian  rocks  gradually  overlap  those  of  older  date 
and  rest  directly  upon  the  pre-Cambrian.  They  con- 
tinue to  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  there  occupy  a  great  part 
of  the  Northern  Archipelago.  To  the  south  of  Athabasca 
Lake  they  rest,  without  any  apparent  angular  uncon- 
formity, upon  sandstones  referred  to  very  late  pre- 
Cambrian  or  possibly  Lower  Cambrian,  giving  evidences 
in  the  stratigraphical  hiatus  of  prolonged  periods  during 
Palaeozoic  time  in  which  land  as  well  as  water  existed 
in  some  parts  of  the  area.  On  the  western  side  of  the 
Great  Plains  the  Palaeozoic  strata  reappear  crumpled 
and  broken  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  the  vast 
crustal  movements  of  the  Cordilleran  belt  found  their 
inland  limit. 

These  rocks  consist  for  the  most  part,  of  pale-grey 
or  buff,  often  magnesian,  limestones  along  the  eastern 
outcrop,  and  from  them  has  been  described  an  extensive 
and  somewhat  peculiar  fauna.  Some,  at  least,  of  the 
Palaeozoic  formations  represented  probably  extend 


136  THE  GEOLOGY 

beneath  the  entire  area  of  the  Great  Plains,  but  they 
are  wholly  concealed  there  by  later  strata  of  Cretaceous 
age,  consisting  chiefly  of  clay-shales  and  sandstones, 
generally  but  little  indurated  and  flat-lying,  or  nearly  so. 
The  uniformity  of  the  surface  features  of  this  country  is 
principally  due  to  that  of  these  deposits,  which,  although 
since  greatly  denuded,  have  worn  down  very  equally 
and  have  apparently  never  been  very  long  subjected  to 
waste  at  a  great  height  above  the  base-level  of  erosion. 
The  whole  area  has  in  fact  been  one  rather  of  deposition 
than  of  denudation  up  to  a  time  geologically  recent, 
and  has  very  lately  been  levelled  up  still  further  by  "the 
superficial  deposits  due  to  the  glacial  period. 

The  Cretaceous  rocks  are  for  the  most  part  distinctly 
marine,  although,  beginning  with  the  Dakota  sandstones 
in  the  south,  the  tar-cemented  sands  on  the  Athabasca 
and  elsewhere  in  the  north-west,  and  the  parallel  beds, 
often  of  coarse  material  and  in  greatly  increased  volume, 
of  the  upturned  measures  of  the  Rockies,  perhaps  indi- 
cate river-born  detritus  won  from  the  elevated  western 
country. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  plains,  the  Dakota  sand- 
stones are  succeeded  by  the  Benton  shales,  the  Niobrara, 
largely  calcareous  and  foraminiferal  in  some  places,  the 
Pierre  shales  and,  lastly,  the  Fox  Hill  sandstones.  These 
beds  were  probably  all  deposited  in  a  shallow  sea, 
spreading  over  the  territory  underlain  by  the  Dakota 
measures.  But  further  west  in  Alberta,  during  the 
interval  represented  by  part  of  the  Pierre  and  possibly 
the  Niobrara,  the  country,  over  a  wide  extent,  for  a 
time  was  in  a  fluctuating  state,  so  that  brackish  water 
and  fresh  water  deposits,  the  Belly  River  formation, 
with  beds  of  lignite,  formed,  but  finally  were  again 
succeeded  by  marine  deposits.  The  Dunvegan  series  of 
the  Peace  River,  to  the  north,  similarly  characterized,  is 
perhaps  somewhat  older.  The  Cretaceous  strata  in  fact 
change  very  materially  in  composition  and  character 


OF  CANADA  137 

toward  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  when  followed  to  the 
north  give  rise  to  the  necessity  for  local  names  arid 
render  a  precise  correlation  difficult  in  the  absence  of 
connecting  sections  over  great  tracts  of  level  country. 

All  the  Cretaceous  strata  so  far  referred  to  belong  to 
the  later  stages  of  that  system,  but  in  the  foot-hills  the 
earlier  Cretaceous  is  represented  by  the  Kootanie 
formation,  holding  coal,  and  reappearing  as  in  folds  in  the 
eastern  ranges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  One  of  these  is 
followed  by  the  valley  of  the  Bow  River  between  Banff 
and  Canmore,  and  affords  both  anthracite  and  bitu- 
minous coal. 

Overlying  the  Cretaceous  rocks  proper,  in  considerable 
parts  of  their  extent,  particularly  in  Alberta,  are  those 
of  the  Laramie,  which,  although  perfectly  conformable 
with  the  marine  strata  beneath,  contain  brackish  water, 
and  in  their  upper  part  entirely  fresh  water  forms  of 
molluscs,  together  with  an  extensive  flora  and  numerous 
beds  of  lignite-coal  or  coal.  As  a  whole,  this  formation 
may  be  regarded  as  a  transition  from  the  Cretaceous  to 
the  Tertiary,  with  a  blending  of  organic  forms,  elsewhere 
considered  as  characteristic  of  one  or  the  other.  The 
lower  parts  are  undoubtedly  most  nearly  related  to  the 
Cretaceous,  and  particularly  to  the  Belly  River  beds, 
which  were  laid  down  under  similar  physical  conditions 
at  an  earlier  stage.  The  remains  of  Dinosaurian  reptiles 
are  still  abundant  in  these.  The  upper  beds,  consti- 
tuting what  was  originally  named  the  Fort  Union  group, 
with  its  local  representatives  under  different  names, 
is,  on  the  contrary,  more  nearly  allied  to  the  Eocene. 
A  still  later  stage  in  the  Tertiary  is  represented  by 
beds  of  Oligocene,  found  particularly  as  an  outlier 
capping  the  Cypress  Hills.  These  have  afforded  nu- 
merous mammalian  bones,  referred  to  the  stage  of  White 
River  beds  of  the  Western  States. 

The  aggregate  thickness  of  the  Cretaceous  strata  of 
the  plains,  so  far  as  known,  may  in  the  eastern  part  be 


13S  THE  GEOLOGY 

stated  as  about  2,000  feet;  in  the  west,  in  northern  Al- 
berta, it  is  about  the  same,  but  exceeds  2,500  feet  in 
south-western  Alber.ta,  without  including  the  Kootanie 
series  of  some  7,000  feet  or  more.  The  thickness  of  the 
Laramie  is  also  great  towards  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
reaching  probably  3,700  feet.  The  Pliocene  (with  per- 
haps the  latter  part  of  the  Miocene)  appears  to  have 
been  a  time  of  erosion  only,  in  the  area  of  the  Canadian 
plains;  wide,  flat-bottomed  valleys  were  cut  out  in  the 
foothills,  and  to  the  east  of  these  great  tracts  of  country 
between  the  now  outstanding  plateaux  must  have  been 
reduced  to  the  extent  of  1,000  feet  or  more  in  height. 

The  Interior  plateau  is  pre-eminently  an  agricultural 
country;  minerals  are  practically  confined  to  the  non- 
metallic  substances.  These,  however,  will  give  rise  to 
important  industries.  The  most  important  are  the 
mineral  fuels  in  the  form  of  coals,  lignite  coals  and 
natural  gas,  with  which  the  plateau  is  richly  supplied. 
These  are  obtained  from  the  Cretaceous  and  Laramie 
rocks.  ,  The  coal-bearing  region  of  the  north-west,  be- 
tween the  International  Boundary  line  and  the  56th 
degree  of  latitude  is  approximately  65,000  square  miles 
in  extent.  The  Souris  River  country  and  the  region 
about  Medicine  Hat  yield  lignite  only.  In  western  Al- 
berta excellent  lignite  coals  occur,  which  are  being 
worked  at  a  number  of  points.  In  the  foot-hills  adjacent 
to  the  mountains  are  many  deposits  of  bituminous  coal. 
Natural  gas  has  been  found  in  great  quantity,  particu- 
larly in  the  region  about  Medicine  Hat,  and  also  two 
hundred  miles  north  of  Edmonton.  There  is  good  evi- 
dence of  the  gas  fields  having  a  wide  extent  throughout 
this  region.  Great  outcrops  of  Cretaceous  sandstones 
saturated  with  tar  or  maltha  occur  along  the  Athabasca 
River,  probably  evincing  the  existence  of  important 
petroleum  reservoirs.  Salt  springs  occur  on  the  borders 
of  Manitoba  Lake  and  in  the  Athabasca  basin.  Gypsum 
also  occurs  along  the  eastern  outcrop  of  the  Silurian  and 


.    OF  CANADA  139 

Devonian  rocks,  and  on  the  Peace  River.  Building 
stones  are  found,  and  clay  suitable  for  brick  and  certain 
kinds  of  pottery.  The  Devonian  limestones  will  prob- 
ablv  prove  important  for  cement-making  in  the  East 
and  North,  as  the  Devona  Carboniferous  of  the  Rockies 
have  already  begun  to  be. 

The  Cordillera.  Of  this  great  mountainous  region  of 
the  Pacific  Coast,  a  length  of  nearly  1,300  miles,  is  in- 
cluded by  the  western  part  of  Canada.  Much  of  this  is 
embraced  in  the  Province  of  British  Columbia,  where  it 
has  a  width  of  about  400  miles  between  the  Great  Plains 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  To  the  north  it  is  continued  in 
the  Yukon  district  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  on 
one  side, and  on  the  other  passes  across  the  141st  meridian 
of  west  longitude  into  Alaska.  Its  strongly  marked 
features  result  from  enormous  crustal  movements  parallel 
to  the  edge  of  the  Pacific,  by  which  its  strata  have  at 
several  periods,  and  along  different  lines,  been  crumpled, 
crushed  and  faulted.  These  movements  having  con- 
tinued at  intervals  to  times  geologically  recent,  the 
mountains  produced  by  them  still  stand  high  and  rugged, 
with  streams  flowing  rapidly  and  with  great  erosive 
power  down  steep  gradients  to  the  sea. 

Although  preserving  in  the  main  a  general  north- 
westerly trend,  the  orographic  features  of  this  region  are 
very  complicated  in  detail.  No  existing  map  yet 
properly  represents  even  the  principal  physical  out- 
lines, and  the  impression  gained  by  the  traveller  or  ex- 
plorer may  well  be  one  of  confusion.  Disregarding, 
however,  all  minor  irregularities,  two  dominant  moun- 
tain systems  are  discovered — the  Rocky  Mountains 
proper  on  the  east,  and  the  Coast  Range  of  British 
Columbia  on  the  west. 

The  first  of  these  it  has  been  proposed  to  name,  from 
an  orographic  point  of  view,  the  "  Laramide  Range,"  as 
it  is  essentially  due  to  earth  movements,  occuring  about 


140  THE  GEOLOGY 

the  close  of  the  Laramie  period,  and  rocks  of  that  age 
are  included  in  its  flexures.  Although  not  quite  con- 
tinuous (for  there  are  two  echelon-like  breaks),  this 
range,  beginning  two  or  three  degrees  of  latitude  to  the 
south  of  the  49th  parallel,  forms  the  eastern  member  of 
the  Cordillera  all  the  way  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  which  it 
reaches  not  far  to  the  west  of  the  Mackenzie  delta.  It 
is  chiefly  composed  of  Palaeozoic  rocks,  largely  lime- 
stones, and  where  it  has  been  closely  studied,  is  found 
to  be  affected  by  series  of  overthrust  faults,  parallel  to 
its  direction,  of  which  the  easternmost  separates  it  from 
the  area  of  the  Cretaceous  foot-hills.  Here  the  older 
rocks  have  been  thrust  eastward  for  several  miles  over 
the  much  newer  strata.  The  structure  has  as  yet  been 
worked  out  in  detail  only  along  the  line  of  the  Bow  River 
Pass.  In  width  this  range  seldom  exceeds  sixty  miles. 
The  heights  formerly  attributed  to  some  peaks  appear 
to  have  been  exaggerated,  but  any  points  in  its  southern 
part  exceed  11,000  or  12,000  feet. 

The  Coast  Range  of  British  Columbia  constitutes  the 
main  western  border  of  the  Cordillera.  Beginning  near 
the  estuary  of  the  Fraser  River,  it  runs  uninterruptedly 
northward,  with  an  average  width  of  about  100  miles, 
for  at  least  900  miles,  when  it  passes  inland  beyond  the 
head  of  Lynn  Canal.  This  range  is  largely  composed  of 
granite  and  more  basic  plutonic  rocks,  with  infolded 
masses  of  altered  Palaeozoic  and  possibly  later  strata. 
It  is  not,  as  a  rule,  so  rugged  in  outline  as  the  last,  but 
its  western  side,  rising  from  the  sea,  shows  the  full  value 
of  its  elevation  there,  while  its  main  summits  often 
exceed  8,000  or  9,000  feet.  Several  rivers  rising  in  the 
plateau  country  to  the  eastward  flow  completely  across 
this  range  to  the  Pacific,  where  the  lower  parts  of  their 
valleys,  as  well  as  those  of  many  streams  originating  in 
the  mountains  themselves,  in  a  submerged  state  consti- 
tute the  remarkable  system  of  fiords  of  British  Columbia. 
Even  in  the  arrangement  of  the  islands  adjacent  to  the 


OF  CANADA  141 

coast,  the  further  extension  of  these  valleys,  and  of 
others  running  with  the  range,  may  be  traced,  the  evi- 
dence being  of  great  subaerial  erosion,  when  the  land 
previously  stood  at  a  higher  stage.  The  cutting  out  of 
these  deep  valleys  probably  began  in  Eocene  times,  but 
was  renewed  and  greatly  increased  in  the  later  Pliocene. 

Outside  the  Coast  Range,  and  in  a  partly  submerged 
condition,  lies  another  range,  of  which  Vancouver  Island 
and  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands  are  projecting  ridges. 
This  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  Continental  plateau,  with 
the  great  depths  of  the  Pacific  beyond  it.  The  rocks 
resemble  those  of  the  Coast  Range,  but  include  also 
masses  of  Triassic  and  Cretaceous  strata  which  have 
participated  in  its  folding,  while  horizontal  Miocene  and 
Pliocene  beds  skirt  some  parts  of  the  shores. 

In  the  inland  portion  of  British  Columbia,  between 
the  Coast  and  Rocky  Mountain  systems  above  particu- 
larly alluded  to,  are  numerous  less  important  mountain 
ranges  which,  while  preserving  a  general  parallelism  in 
trend,  are  much  less  continuous.  Thus,  in  travelling 
westward  by  the  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway, 
after  descending  from  the  Rocky  Mountain  summit  and 
crossing  the  Upper  Columbia  vallev,  the  Selkirk  Range 
has  to  be  surmounted.  Beyond  this,  the  Columbia  on 
its  southern  return  is  again  crossed,  and  the  Gold  Range 
is  traversed  by  the  Eagle  Pass  before  entering  the  In- 
terior Plateau  of  British  Columbia,  which  occupies  the 
space  remaining  between  this  and  the  Coast  Range. 
The  system  of  ranges  lying  immediately  to  the  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  proper,  notwithstanding  its  breaks 
and  irregularities,  is  capable  of  approximate  definition, 
and  its  components  have  been  designated  collectively  the 
Gold  Ranges.  Further  north  it  is  represented  by  the 
Cariboo  Mountains,  in  the  mining  district  of  the  same 
name.  The  highest  known  summit  of  this  svstem  is 
Mount  Sir  Donald,  10,645  feet,  one  of  the  Selkirk  Moun- 
tains. This  mountain  svstem  is  believed  to  be  the 


142  THE  GEOLOGY 

'-     'i.  / 

oldest  in  British  Columbia.  It  comprises  pre-Cambrian 
rocks  with  granites,  and  xa  great  thickness  of  older 
Palaeozoic  beds,  much  disturbed  and  altered. 

The  Interior  Plateau  region  constitutes, an  important 
physical  feature.  Near  the  International  Boundary  it 
is  terminated  southward  by  a  coalescence  of  rather  ir- 
regular mountains,  and  again,  to  the  northward,  it  ends 
about  latitude  55°  30'  in  another  plexus  of  mountains 
without  wide  intervals.  Its  breadth  between  the  mar- 
gins of  the  Gold  Ranges  and  the  Coast  Range  is  about 
100  miles,  and  its  length  is  about  500  miles.  It  is  con- 
venient to  speak  of  the  country  thus  denned  as  a  plateau, 
because  of  its  difference,  in  the  large,  from  the  more 
lofty  bordering  mountains.  Its  early  Tertiary  topo- 
graphy has  been  greatly  modified  by  volcanic  accumula- 
tions of  the  Miocene,  and  by  river-erosion,  while  it  stood 
at  a  considerable  altitude,  in  the  Pliocene  ;  but  its 
plateau-like  character  is  not  obvious  until  some  height 
has  been  gained  above  the  lower  valleys,  where  the  eye 
can  range  along  its  level  horizon-lines.  It  is  highest  to 
the  southward,  but  most  of  the  great  valleys  traversing  it 
are  less  in  elevation  than  3,000  feet  above  the  sea.  To 
the  north,  and  particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  group 
of  large  lakes  occuring  there,  its  main  area  is  less  elevated 
than  3,000  feet,  making  its  average  height  about  3,500 
feet. 

Beyond  this  plateau  to  the  north,  the  whole  width  of 
the  Cordillera,  very  imperfectly  explored  as  yet,  appears 
to  be  mountainous  as  far  as  the  59th  parallel  of  latitude, 
when  the  ranges  diverge  or  decline,  and  in  the  upper 
basin  of  the  Yukon,  rolling  or  nearly  flat  land,  at  mod- 
erate elevations,  again  begins  to  occupy  wide  intervening 
tracts. 

As  a  whole,  the  area  of  the  Cordillera  in  Canada  may 
be  describee!  as  forest-clad,  but  the  growth  of  trees  is 
more  luxuriant  on  the  western  slopes  of  each  of  the 
dominant  mountain  ranges,  in  correspondence  with  the 


OF  CANADA  143 

greater  precipitation  occuring  on  these  slopes.  This  is 
particularly  the  case  in  the  coast  region  and  on  the  sea- 
ward side  of  the  Coast  Range,  where  magnificent  and 
dense  forests  of  coniferous  trees  occupy  almost  the  whole 
available  surface.  The  Interior  Plateau,  however,  con- 
stitutes the  southern  part  of  a  notably  dry  belt,  and  in- 
cludes wide  stretches  of  open,  grass-covered  hills  and 
valleys,  forming  excellent  cattle  ranges.  Further  north, 
along  the  same  belt,  similar  open  country  appears  inter- 
mittently, but  the  forest  invades  the  greater  part  of  the 
region.  It  is  only  toward  the  Arctic  coast,  in  relatively 
very  high  latitudes,  that  the  barren  Arctic  tundra 
country  begins,  which,  sweeping  in  wider  development  to 
the  westward,  occupies  most  of  the  interior  of  Alaska. 

With  certain  exceptions  the  farming  land  of  British 
Columbia  is  confined  to  the  valleys  and  tracts  below 
3,000  feet,  by  reason  of  the  summer  frosts  occuring  at 
greater  heights.  There  is,  however,  a  considerable  area 
of  such  land  in  the  aggregate,  with  a  soil  generally  of 
great  fertility.  In  some  of  the  southern  valleys  of  the 
interior,  irrigation  is  necessary  for  the  growth  of  crops. 
Fruit  growing  is  becoming  one  of  the  important  indus- 
tries. 

The  geological  structure  of  the  Cordillera  is  extremelv 
complicated,  and  it  has  as  yet  been  studied  in  detail 
over  limited  tracts  only.  There  have  been  no  appro- 
priate terms  of  comparison  for  the  formation  met  with, 
and  these  it  has  consequently  been  necessary  to  investi- 
gate independently  by  the  light  of  first  principle.  The 
difficulty  is  increased  by  the  abundance  of  rocks  of  vol- 
canic origin  referable  to  several  distinct  periods,  re- 
sembling those  of  the  Appalachian  mountain  region, 
though  on  a  vastly  greater  scale,  and,  like  them,  almost 
entirely  devoid  of  organic  remains.  The  recognition, 
early  in  their  investigation,  has  rendered  it  possible, 
however,  to  understand  the  main  geological  features, 


144  THE  GEOLOGY 

which  at  first  appeared  to  present  an  almost  insoluble 
problem. 

The  oldest  rocks  recognized  consist  of  crystalline 
schists  probably  of  pre-Cambrian  age,  though  possibly 
intricately  associated  with  highly-altered  Palaeozoic 
strata  and  metamorphosed  igneous  material.  In  the 
Gold  Range  and  Interior  Plateau  region  they  have  been 
distinguished  as  the  Shuswap  series.  They  include  rocks 
lithologically  resembling  the  Laurentian  gneisses  of  the 
east,  together  with  crystalline  limestones,  quartzites 
and  gneisses  like  those  of  the  Grenville  series.  In  the 
Yukon,  where  similar  rocks  are  widely  developed,  they 
have  been  grouped  under  the  name  of  the  Nasina  series, 
held  to  be  at  least  pre-Ordovician  in  age. 

In  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Gold  Ranges,  and  elsewhere 
is  a  great  thickness  of  Palaeozoic  rocks  which,  in  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Range,  towards  the  south,  is  underlain 
by  a  considerable  volume  of  relatively  unaltered,  pre- 
Cambrian  sediments.  Cambrian  fossils  have  been  re- 
covered from  the  lower  Palaeozoic  beds  in  the  south, 
where  the  whole  of  the  Cambrian  is  represented  by  highly 
fossiliferous  measures,  and  again  in  the  far  north.  West 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  the  Cambrian  and,  in  general, 
the  succeeding  Palaeozoic  systems,  are  largely  repre- 
sented by  volcanic  material.  The  Ordovician  and  Si- 
lurian, on  the  evidence  in  each  case  of  a  few  character- 
istic fossils,  are  known  to  exist  at  several  points  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  proper.  The  Devonian  has  not  been 
distinctly  recognized. 

In  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Carboniferous  is  largely 
represented,  chiefly  by  massive  limestones,  and  the 
fossils  found  in  these  pass  down  to  a  stage  which  has 
been  characterized  as  Devono-Carboniferous.  No  single 
trace  of  the  flora  of  the  Carboniferous  period  has  yet  been 
discovered  in  the  western  regions  of  Canada.  In  the 
Interior  Plateau  and  along  the  Coast,  the  Carboniferous 
consists  below  of  volcanic  accumulations  and  quartzites 


OF  CANADA  145 

and  above  of  limestones,  some  of  which  are  largely  fora- 
miniferal. 

The  Triassic,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  proper,  is  represented  by  red  sandstones,  the 
deposits  of  an  interior  Mediterranean  of  the  period.  To 
the  west  and  north  it  becomes  a  marine  formation,  with 
peculiar  fossils  of  the  "Alpine  Trias"  type,  but  over 
large  areas  it  consists  almost  entirely  of  contemporaneous 
volcanic  accumulations. 

The  Jurassic  occurs  in  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands 
and  the  Fernie  shale,  underlying  the  Kootanie  formation 
in  the  southern  portion  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  probably 
belongs  to  the  same  system.  Rocks  of  earlier  Cretaceous 
occur  in  places  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  throughout 
British  Columbia  as  far  as  the  coast,  also  northward  to 
the  Porcupine  River,  between  latitudes  67°  and  68°,  in 
the  Yukon  District.  Newer  Cretaceous  rocks  are  de- 
veloped particularly  in  Vancouver  Island,  where  they 
constitute  the  productive  coal  measures.  In  the  Crow's 
Nest  Pass  region  and  elsewhere  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
as  well  as  in  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands,  the  earlier 
Cretaceous  rocks  contain  abundance  of  good  coal.  All 
the  strata  of  the  Cretaceous  period  are  more  or  less  filted 
and  folded,  and  are  evidently  prior  in  date  to  the  last 
great  organic  movements  of  the  Cordillera.  Evidences  of 
contemporaneous  volcanic  action  are  again  abundant  in 
some  parts  of  the  extent  of  the  Cretaceous. 

Rocks  referable  to  the  Laramie  or  transition  period 
between  the  Cretaceous  and  Tertiary,  are  found  in  the 
Yukon  District  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Fraser  delta, 
holding  lignite  coals  and  numerous  remains  of  plants. 
Beds  assigned  to  the  Oligocene  and  Miocene  are  also  well 
developed  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Interior  Plateau  of 
British  Columbia,  where  the  latter  period  has  been  an 
epoch  of  notable  volcanic  eruptions,  producing  both 
effusive  and  fragmental  rocks,  but  toward  the  close 
flooding  large  tracts  with  basaltic  flows.  Traces  of 


146  THE  GEOLOGY 

similar  volcanic  activity,  of  the  same  date,  are  found  in 
the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands  and  in  Vancouver  Island. 
The  Pliocene  was  chiefly  a  time  of  erosion,  but  deposits 
referred  to  this  period  are  not  entirely  wanting. 

Until  the  completion  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  trans- 
continental railway,  the  west  coast  of  Canada  was  a 
remote  region,  accessible  with  difficulty;  but  long  before 
this  coal  has  been  successfully  mined  in  Vancouver 
Island,  and  in  1858  and  succeeding  years  the  discovery 
and  working  of  placer  gold  deposits  brought  the  then 
isolated  colony  of  British  Columbia  into  considerable 
prominence.  From  the  time  of  the  quarrel  with  Spain 
on  the  Nootka  question,  in  1870,  little  had  been  heard  of 
the  region,  which  remained  unprized  and  suffered 
naturally  in  consequence  when  the  "Oregon"  boundary 
was  settled  with  the  United  States. 

Lode  mining  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  about 
fifteen  years  ago.  In  1893  the  annual  production  of 
minerals  in  British  Columbia  had  a  value  of  about  three 
and  a  half  million  dollars.  It  now  runs  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  twenty-five  millions.  The  lead  of  Canada  is 
obtained  from  the  silver-lead  mines  of  East  and  West 
Kootenay.  Gold-copper  ores  are  mined  extensively  at 
Rossland,  and  in  the  Boundary  Creek  district  are 
enormous  copper-gold  deposits  of  the  contact  meta- 
morphic  type,  which  are  worked  on  a  gigantic  scale. 
Copper  is  also  found  in  many  other  parts  of  British 
Columbia,  particularly  along  the  Pacific  Coast.  Lode 
gold  is  mined  in  West  Kootenay  and  the  Similkameen. 

The  Cordilleran  belt  in  Canada  is  not  only  rich  in  gold, 
silver,  copper  and  lead,  but  it  has  enormous  resources  of 
coal  of  excellent  quality,  ranging  from  lignites  to  an- 
thracite, conveniently  situated.  It  is  mined  extensively 
in  the  Crow's  Nest  Pass,  on  Bow  River,  at  Nicola,  and 
on  Vancouver  Island.  The  great  unprospected  areas 
are  known  to  contain  the  coal  formation,  and  will  no 
doubt  when  explored  add  greatly  to  the  coal  resources. 


OF  CANADA  147 

While  well  opened  up  along  the  southern  fringe  of  the 
province,  and  to  some  extent  along  the  coast,  and  while 
the  main  streams  have  been  prospected  for  placer  gold, 
the  great  part  of  the  Cordilleran  belt  in  Canada  may  be 
said  to  be  as  yet  untouched  and  its  potential  wealth  in 
minerals  unknown,  though  it  is  certain  to  become  one 
of  the  great  mining  countries. 

Glaciation  of  Western  Canada.  Like  the  eastern  part 
of  Canada,  the  western  has  been  largely  affected  by  the 
events  of  the  glacial  period.  Most  of  the  superficial 
deposits  can  be  explained  only  by  reference  to  this 
period,  and  to  it  also  the  diversion  of  many  rivers  and 
streams  and  other  important  changes  are  due.  It  is 
not  yet  possible  to  give  a  connected  account  of  these 
events,  which  will  meet  with  general  agreement,  but,  as 
in  the  east,  the  main  facts  have  already  been  made  suffi- 
ciently plain. 

At  an  early  time  in  the  glacial  period,  the  Cordillera, 
standing  probably  at  a  relatively  high  elevation,  became 
covered  by  a  confluent  ice-sheet,  extending  approxi- 
mately from  latitude  48°  to  latitude  63°,  with  a  total 
length  at  its  maximum  of  some  1,200  miles.  The  form 
of  the  surface  prevented  the  ice  from  discharging  in  all 
directions  like  that  of  Greenland,  and  forced  the  bulk  of 
the  outflow  to  move  south-eastward  and  north-westward, 
in  conformity  with  the  direction  of  the  ruling  mountain 
ranges,  from  a  central  neutral  gathering-ground  or  neve, 
situated  approximately  between  the  55th  and  59th 
parallels.  The  southward-moving  portion  of  the  great 
glacier  filled  the  Interior  Plateau  of  British  Columbia, 
whilst  its  opposite  extremity  in  the  main  flowed  into  the 
Yukon  basin.  Smaller  streams  from  the  main  mass  un- 
doubtedly crossed  the  Coast  Range  by  transverse  valleys, 
to  reinforce  secondary,  but  large  glaciers,  which  reached 
the  sea  to  the  south  and  north  of  Vancouver  Island, 
while  others  extended  through  the  Bow  River  valley 


148  THE  GEOLOGY  OF  CANADA 

and  similar  depressions  to  the  western  margin  of  the 
Great  Plains. 

This  Cordilleran  glacier,  as  shown  by  late  observations 
in  the  western  part  of  the  Great  Plains,  was  the  first  to 
affect  the  region,  and  may  perhaps  prove  to  be  the  first 
notable  ice-cap  developed  during  the  glacial  period  in 
North  America.  At  a  later  time  it  became  gradually 
very  much  reduced,  but  subsequently,  at  least  once 
again  extended  to  dimensions  in  some  places  approach- 
ing those  first  held  by  it.  Rock  striation  and  the  tran- 
sport of  erratics,  show  that  the  southern  part  of  the 
Cordilleran  glacier,  when  at  its  maximum,  passed  unin- 
terruptedly over  projecting  points  between  6,000  and 
7,000  feet  in  height  above  the  sea. 

In  the  area  of  the  Great  Plains,  as  above  noted,  the 
first  recognized  evidences  of  glacial  conditions  are  those 
connected  with  the  eastward  spread  of  comparatively 
limited  tongues  of  glacier-ice  from  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  the  deposit,  on  the  western  plains,  of  boulder-clay 
and  rolled  gravels  attributed  to  what  it  has  been  pro- 
posed to  name  the  Albertan  stage.  Subsequently  at 
least  two  more  distinct  boulder-clays,  separated  by  im- 
portant interglacial  deposits,  have  been  laid  down  over 
the  whole  western  part  of  the  Great  Plains,  ending  above 
in  silty,  sandy  and  gravelly  beds,  with  large  scattered 
superficial  erratics.  In  connection  doubtless  with  one 
of  these  boulder-clays  is  the  remarkable  monument  of 
the  glacial  period  known  as  the  Missouri  Coteau  (crossed 
by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway, west  of  Parkbeg  station) . 
These  later  boulder-clays  differ  from  those  of  the  Al- 
bertan stage  in  being  largely  composed  of  debris  of  the 
Laurentian  and  Huronian  rocks  and  Palaeozoic  lime- 
stones found  in  places  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  interior 
continental  plain.  The  direction  of  transport  of  these 
erratics  has  been  from  the  north-east  or  north  north-east. 


THE   CLIMATE   OF   MANITOBA 

By  R.  F.  STUPART, 
Director  of  the  Meteorological  Service. 

THE  Province  of  Manitoba  is  almost  in  the  centre 
of  the  continent,  about  midway  between  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  and  also  midway 
between  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  is 
many  hundreds  of  miles  distant  from  any  high  mount- 
ains, and  there  are  no  important  water  areas  to  the 
westward.  The  topographical  features  of  the  province 
are  not  pronounced.  About  two-thirds  of  the  total  area, 
including  the  basins  of  Lakes  Winnipeg  and  Manitoba, 
are  at  a  level  of  less  than  one  thousand  feet,  while  to 
the  westward  the  levels  increase  gradually  to  about  six- 
teen hundred  feet,  with  some  few  districts  a  little  higher. 
Its  highest  uplands  are  the  Porcupine  Mts.  between 
52°  and  53°  N.  (2,500ft.),  the  Duck  Mountain  between 
51°  and  52°  N.,  a  portion  of  the  Riding  Mountain-  on 
about  51°  (2,000  ft.),  and  a  portion  of  the  Turtle  Mt. 
immediately  north  of  the  49th  parallel  (2,300  ft.).  To 
the  northward  and  north-eastward  of  the  province  the 
levels  fall  away  towards  Hudson's  Bay. 

Such  being,  in  brief,  an  outline  of  the  geographical 
and  topographical  features  of  the  province,  it  is  not  surr 
prising  that  the  climate  is  typically  continental  in  its 
character  and  that  such  differences  as  exist  between 
different  districts  are  due  chiefly  to  latitude,  and  the 
general  meteorology  of  the  zone  within  which  the 
territory  lies. 

This  zone,  within  which  the  other  Western  provinces 
are  also  situated,  is  one  of. peculiar  interest  from  a  meteor- 
ological standpoint,  inasmuch  as  the  trajectories  of  a 
large  percentage  of  the  cyclonic  areas  moving  across 


150  THE  CLIMATE 

America  lie  within  it,  and  the  passing  of  these  disturb- 
ances causes  some  very  abrupt  temperature  changes. 
The  fact  also  that  the  maxima  of  the  winter  mean 
pressure  is  in  some  years  to  the  northward  and  in  other 
years  to  the  southward  leads  to  very  decided  varia- 
bility in  the  character  of  the  winter  season  in  different 
years,  some  instances  of  which  will  be  given. 

The  very  pronounced  contrast  between  the  continental 
and  littoral  type  of  climate  is  well  evidenced  by  the  fact 
that  the  mean  range  in  temperature  between  the  warmest 
and  the  coldest  months  of  the  year  is  68°  at  Winnipeg, 
while  it  is  but  21°  at  Victoria,  British  Columbia.  The 
absolute  recorded  range  of  temperature  at  Winnipeg  is 
153°.  A  change  of  temperature  of  40°  in  twenty-four 
hours  is  not  very  exceptional  in  winter  in  Manitoba,  and 
.a  range  of  49°  has  been  registered.  Very  pronounced 
also  are  the  departures  from  the  normal  in  correspond- 
ing months  in  different  years,  there  being  a  January  on 
record  with  the  mean  temperature  8°  above  normal  and 
another  with  the  mean  13°  below  normal,  and  a  Feb- 
ruary with  a  mean  temperature  25°  above  normal  and 
also  one  with  the  mean  13°  below  normal. 

The  monthly  variations  from  normal  are  not  so  pro- 
nounced in  summer,  the  mean  temperature  of  the 
warmest  July  having  been  70°. 2  and  of  the  coldest  GO3. 6. 

As  will  be  obvious  from  the  figures  just  given,  the 
change  from  winter  to  spring  and  summer  is  more  rapid 
than  in  Great  Britain  or  Western  Europe,  and  frequently 
an  April,  which  is  wintry  at  the  beginning,  ends  with  con- 
ditions approaching  those  of  summer.  An  average  April 
is  not  so  warm  a  month  in  Manitoba  as  it  is  in  England. 
The  season  is  not,  however,  so  backward  as  the  monthly 
mean  temperatures  might  seem  to  indicate.  The  daily 
range  is  large,  approximately  25°,  and,  while  the  nights 
are  cold,  the  day  temperatures  are  high;  the  frost  soon 
leaves  the  ground  and  the  farmer  may  commence  sowing. 
The  mean  temperature  of  May  is  as  high  as  in  the  south 


OF  MANITOBA  151 

of  England,  with  the  mean  maximum  considerably 
higher,  and  while  frosts  occasionally  occur  they  are 
seldom  severe.  Light  snowfalls  also  occasionally  occur 
in  this  month,  and  at  times  are  accompanied  by  high 
winds,  but  these  storms  are  seldom  injurious  to  agri- 
culture. 

The  rapid  upward  trend  of  the  temperature  curve 
continues  during  June,  the  average  daily  maximum  of 
which  month  is  74°  at  Winnipeg  and  72°  at  Minnedosa. 
Warm  days  with  frequent  showers  produce  an  almost 
phenomenally  rapid  growth,  which  continues  through 
July,  for  which  month  the  mean  temperature  at  Winnipeg 
is  66°,  with  an  average  daily  maximum  of  78°.  Few 
summers  go  by  without  several  heat  spells,  during  which 
the  temperature  rises  to  90°  or  over,  and  in  August,  1886, 
103°  was  recorded  in  Winnipeg  and  104°  in  the  more 
western  districts. 

August  shews  a  declining  mean  temperature  after  the 
middle  of  the  month,  and  the  last  fortnight  is  a  period 
of  uneasiness  among  farmers,  as  it  is  known  that  in  some 
years  slight  frosts  have  occurred,  injuring  such  crops  as 
were  not  yet  fully  ripe.  Summer  is,  however,  by  no 
means  over,  and  periods  of  exceedingly  warm  weather  are 
not  infrequent  even  in  September ;  it  is  only  occasionally 
that  there  are  night  frosts  in  that  month.  October  is 
the  true  autumn  month,  during  which  the  temperature 
curve  begins  its  most  rapid  decline ;  and  before  its  close 
severe  frosts  are  of  nightly  occurrence,  and  on  some 
days  the  temperature  may  not  rise  above  the  freezing 
point. 

The  winter  may  be  regarded  as  of  five  months  duration, 
viz.,  from  November  to  the  end  of  March.  It  is  not 
usually,  however,  until  the  last  week  in  November  that 
the  temperature  falls  to  zero,  and  this  occurs  on  a  few 
days  only,  and  it  is  seldom  that  zero  is  registered  after 
March  25th. 

January,  with  an  average  mean  temperature  of  — 3%  is 


152  THE  CLIMATE 

colder  than  February,  but  in  both  these  months  there 
are  generally  long  spells  of  exceedingly  low  temperature, 
during  which  for  days  together  the  thermometer  does 
not  rise  above  zero.  As  an  example  of  this,  in  January, 
1883,  on  twenty-two  days  the  temperature  did  not  reach 
the  zero  point,  and  a  minimum  reading  of  — 46°  was  re- 
corded. This  was,  however,  exceptional  and  in  marked 
contrast  to  January,  1878,  when  there  were  only  three 
days  bn  which  the  temperature  did  not  rise  above  zero, 
and  minus  readings  were  registered  on  but  twelve  days. 
The  most  exceptional  winter  month  on  record  was 
February,  1878,  when  the  mean  temperature  was  24° 
and  the  temperature  fell  below  zero  on  but  one  day.  In 
most  years  — 40°  is  registered  at  least  once  during  the 
winter;  — 46°  has  been  recorded  four  times,  and  — 50° 
was  registered  on  December  24th,  1879. 

The  snowfall  of  Manitoba  ranges  from  52  inches  in  the 
eastern  districts  to  44  inches  in  the  western  districts,  and 
while  the  ground  is  usually  well  covered  from  December 
to  March,  it  is  seldom  that  the  depth  is  great.  In  most 
winters  there  are  several  heavy  north-west  gales  succeed- 
ing the  passage  of  cyclonic  areas,  and  in  these  storms,  as 
the  temperature  drops  quickly,  accompanied  by  a 
blinding  drift  of  the  dry  snow,  we  have  the  well-known 
blizzard  of  the  prairies. 

Winter  in  Manitoba  and  in  the  Canadian  West  gener- 
ally is  not  a  season  that  is  dreaded.  It  is,  on  the  con- 
trary, a  season  which,  with  its  bright,  dry,  exhilarating 
atmosphere,  is  looked  forward  to  with  pleasure  by  most 
people.  With  the  cold  weather,  bright  sunshine,  ex- 
treme dryness  and  lack  of  precipitation  become  the 
predominating  features  of  the  continental  interior;  94 
hours  of  sunshine  in  November  and  88  in  December 
increase  to  111  in  January  and  137  in  February.  As  with 
the  increasing  cold  the  humidity  diminishes,  the  electric 
spark  between  the  body  and  any  conductor  bears  witness 
in  a  striking  manner  to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the 


OF  MANITOBA  153 

atmosphere.  The  thin  cirro-stratus  cloud  which  fre- 
quently overspreads  the  winter  sky  when  cyclonic  areas 
are  passing  eastward  across  the  western  and  north- 
western states  is  peculiarly  productive  of  displays  of 
parhelia  ranging  from  the  ordinary  "Mock  Suns"  to  the 
more  intricate  and  beautiful  phenomena  which  at  times 
include  several  circles  and  prismatic  colouring. 

As  jnight  be  expected  from  the  general  similarity  of 
the  face  of  the  country,  there  are  no  wide  differences  in 
the  monthly  and  annual  amounts  of  precipitation  in  the 
different  parts  of  the  Province ;  the  mean  annual  amount 
for  the  Province  is  about  19  inches,  the  heaviest,  about 
21  inches,  occurring  in  the  extreme  eastern  portion,  and 
the  least  about  17  inches  in  the  more  southern  and 
western  districts.  As,  however,  most  of  the  precipita- 
tion, especially  the  summer  rainfall,  comes  from  local 
storms,  there  is  sometimes  a  considerable  difference  in  the 
amounts  recorded  at  places  not  far  distant  from  each 
other.  Between  9  and  10  inches  of  rain,  or  approxi- 
mately 50%  of  the  total  annual  precipitation  occurs 
between  May  and  August  and  is  nearly  equal  to  the 
amount  that  occurs  during  the  same  period  in  Ontario 
and  in  the  midland  counties  of  England.  At  Winnipeg 
the  greatest  annual  precipitation  recorded  was  29.24 
inches  in  1878  and  the  least  14.38  inches  in  1886,  in 
which  year  only  4.23  inches  fell  during  the  May  to 
August  period.  Most  of  the  summer  rainfall  occurs  in 
thunderstorms,  which  at  times  are  quite  heavy,  ac- 
companied by  violent  squalls  and,  less  frequently,  by 
hail.  It  is  but  very  seldom  that  these  storms  attain  the 
energy  of  the  tornado,  which  is  not  uncommon  on  the 
more  heated  prairies  to  the  south. 

Reference  to  Table  II  will  show  at  a  glance  that 
Manitoba  has  plenty  of  sunshine,  and  that  both  summer 
and  winter  the  percentage  of  the  possible  duration  is 
larger  than  in  the  older  Canadian  Provinces  or  in  Great 
Britain. 


154 


THE  CLIMATE  OF   MANITOBA 


TABLE  I.— The  average  mean  highest,  mean  lowest  and  mean   temperature; 
the  highest  and  lowest  temperature  and  mean  daily  range;  also  percentage 
of  cloud  precipitation  and  sunshine,  at  various  stations  in  Manitoba. 
20years  1888—1907.  WINNIPEG.         Lat.  49°  53',  long.  97°  7'. 


MONTH 

MEAN 

ABSOLUTE 

Per 

cent, 
of 
cloud. 

Pre- 
cipit- 
ation. 

Hours 
of 
sun- 
shine. 

High- 
est. 

Low- 
esf 

Temper- 
ature. 

•> 

Daily 
range. 

Hith- 

est. 

Low- 
est. 

January  .... 
February  .. 
March 
April      ... 

8.0 
11.1 
26.2 
50.1 
64.2 
74.2 
77.6 
75.4 
65.8 
51.8 
30.5 
16.8 

—13.3 
—13.4 
3.0 
27.0 
37.8 
49.9 
54.0 
50.3 
41.8 
30.9 
12.4 
-  2.7 

-  2.6 
-  1.2 
14.6 
38.6 
51.0 
62.1 
65.8 
62.9 
53.8 
41.3 
21.4 
7.0 

21.3 
24.5 
23  2 
23.1 
26.4 
24.3 
23.6 
25.1 
24.0 
20.9 
18.1 
19.5 

41.8 
46.0 
61.8 
89.6 
93.6 
100.5 
95.8 
97.0 
99.0 
84.8 
64.8 
44.8 

-46.1 
—46.5 
—36.5 
-12.8 
14.0 
21.0 
35.5 
30.3 
17.0 
-  2.8 
—33.4 
—39.1 

47 
42 
55 
49 
53 
59 
50 
51 
54 
58 
57 
53 

0.96 
0.70 
1.25 
1.51 
1.91 
3.62 
3.33 
2.04 
1.93 
1.27 
1.16 
0.74 

Ill 

137 
182 
204 
255 
251 
286 
257 
176 
127 
94 
88 

May  

June.... 

July 

August  
September 
October  
November.. 
December.. 

Year  

34.6 

100.5 

—46.5 

52 

20.42 

2172 

20  years    1888-1907. 


MINNEDOSA.        Lat.  50°  15',  long.  99°  50'. 


January  ..  .. 

10.5 

—11.6 

—  0.6 

22.1 

46.0 

—50.2 

42 

1.25 

February  .. 

12.4 

--11.  3 

0.6 

23.7 

51.5 

—52.2 

45 

0.88 

March  

26.8 

3.1 

14.9 

23.7 

66.2 

—37.0 

53 

1.27 

April 

49  4 

26.0 

37  7 

23.4 

82  5 

—14.7 

54 

1.18 

May.i  

62  9 

36  4 

49.7 

26.5 

96.1 

9.4 

55 

2.02 

June  .... 

71.8 

47.3 

59.6 

24.5 

103.8 

22.5 

60 

3.37 

July 

76  3 

51  1 

63  7 

25  2 

97  8 

32.7 

51 

2.67 

August  

74.7 

48.0 

61.3 

26.7 

102.8 

24.5 

49     ' 

2.08 

September 

65.1 

39.4 

52.2 

25.7 

97.0 

11.2 

53 

1.53 

October  

51.7 

29.5 

40.6 

22.2 

82.8 

1.8 

60 

1.22 

November  . 

30.7 

11.6 

21.1 

19.1 

65.8 

—32.8 

55 

1.59 

December.. 

19.4 

—  1.3 

9.1 

20.7 

47.1 

—37.0 

49 

1.02 

Year  

34.2 

103.8 

—52.2 

53 

20.13 

18  years  1890-1907. 


BRANDON.        Lat.  49°  51',  long.  99°  57'. 


January  ..  .. 
February... 
March..,  
April  
May  

8.8 
10.8 
25.6 
50.9 
64.6 

—14.1 
—13.2 
2.0 
26.1 
36.4 

—  2.7 
-  1.2 
13.8 
38.5 
50  5 

22.9 

.24.0 
23.6 

24.8 
28  2 

43.5 
47.6 
60.0 
88.4 
99  3 

-47.2 
-52.0 
-41.9 
-11.7 
7  0 

0.91 
0.87 
0.85 
0.81 
1.81 

10T 
132 
158 

158 
229 

June  ..  . 

72.9 

47  0 

60  0 

25  9 

106  3 

26  3 

3  42 

22S 

July 

77.8 

50  5 

64  2 

27  3 

99  5 

33  0 

2.44 

274 

August  
September. 
October  
November. 
December.. 

75.9 
66.4 
52.9 
30.3 
17.7 

47.9 
38.6 
27.7 
8.9 
—  4.8 

62.2 
52.5 
40.3 
19.6 
8.5 

28.0 
27.8 
25.2 
21.4 
22.5 

106.5 
95.6 
81.6 
69.1 
49.1 

29.5 
10.6 
-  3.0 
—40.7 
-40.9 

2.51 
1.46 
0.88 
0.86 
0.63 

252 
174 
130 
89 
86 

Year  

33.7 

106.5 

-52.0 

17.45 

2012 

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FLORA    OF    MANITOBA 

INTRODUCTORY   REMARKS 

By  A.  H.  REGINALD  BULLER,  D.  Sc.,  Ph  D.( 
Professor  of  Botany  in  the  University  of  Manitoba. 

THE  Flora  of  Manitoba  up  to  the  present  has  been 
studied  but  very  little,  so  that  it  is  not  yet  possible  to 
present  any  adequate  account  of  the  Algae,  Fungi, 
Liverworts,  or  Mosses.  The  first  list  of  Phanerogamia 
and  Pteridophyta  was  compiled  for  this  hand-book  by 
the  late  Rev.  Canon  Burman,  whose  death  occurred  on 
January  80th  of  this  year.  Canon  Burman,  who  was 
born  in  Yorkshire,  England,  came  out  to  Manitoba 
whilst  still  a  young  man,  and  lived  in  the  Province  for 
more  than  thirty  years.  During  this  time  he  gradually 
obtained  a  unique  acquaintance  with  the  flora,  and  last 
year  was  induced  to  compile  a  list  of  the  Phanerogamia 
and  Pteridophyta.  Unfortunately  his  illness  prevented 
any  revision  of  the  list.  Canon  Burman  was  perhaps 
the  only  man  in  Manitoba  who  possessed  a  comprehen- 
sive knowledge  of  the  local  flora,  and  the  Province  could 
ill  afford  to  lose  him.  His  death  is  particularly  re- 
gretted in  view  of  the  visit  of  the  British  Association  to 
Winnipeg. 

A  few  plants  not  recorded  by  Canon  Burman  were 
found  by  Mr.  C.  W.  Lowe  last  summer.  They  have  been 
included  in  the  list,  and  are  marked  with  an  asterisk. 


THE    PHANEROGAMIA   AND   PTERIDO- 
PHYTA  OF  MANITOBA 

By  the  late  REV.    W.    A.    BURMAN, 

Of  St.  John's  College,  Winnipeg. 


IN  presenting  the  following  list  of  Manitoba  Plants, 
no  claim  is  made  to  completeness.  There  is  a  large 
amount  of  work  yet  to  be  done  within  the  bounds  of  the 
Province  as  at  present  constituted;  while,  with  the  ex- 
tension of  the  boundaries  to  Hudson's  Bay,  doubtless 
the  flora  will  be  enriched  by  the  discovery  of  many  sub- 
Arctic  species.  Most  of  the  Plants  included  in  the 
present  list  were  collected  by  the  writer.  The 
remainder  have  been  added  from  the  records  of  Dr.  G. 
Macoun  and  Mr.  G.  M.  Macoun  of  the  Geological 
Survey,  and  chiefly  consist  of  species  collected  in  the 
extreme  North- Western  part  of  the  Province. 

The  nomenclature  adopted  is  that  used  in  the  cata- 
logue of  plants  issued  by  the  Geological  Survey  of  Canada, 
which  gives  a  very  full  list  of  synonyms ;  for  the  sake  of 
economising  space,  the  authors  of  the  nomenclature 
used  have  not  been  named. 

For  the  study  of  Plant  distribution,  the  Province  may 
be  divided  into  four  districts: 

(1)  EASTERN  DISTRICT.  This  extends  from  the 
Eastern  shore  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  almost  to  the 
Red  River,  and  includes  a  number  of  small  lakes  which 
are  drained  by  the  Winnipeg  River.  The  rocks  towards 
the  Eastern  side  of  the  district  belong  to  the  Laurentian 
and  Huronian  formations,  but  towards  the  West  they 
gradually  disappear  and  are  succeeded  by  fine  lacrustine 
deposits  of  glacial  age. 


158  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

In  the  Southern  part  of  the  district  occur  a  number  of 
sandy  ridges,  which  are  covered  with  "Jack"  pine  and 
poplar.  The  intervening  areas  are  largely  occupied  by 
swamps,  in  which  the  prevailing  trees  are  Tamarac, 
Spruce  and  Poplar. 

Towards  the  extreme  West  the  woods  become  replaced 
by  open,  low-lying  prairie,  which  forms  part  of  the  fertile 
Red  River  Valley.  Further  North  there  is  a  strip  of 
park-like  country,  about  50  miles  in  width,  in  which 
occur  occasional  exposures  of  limestone,  as  at  Tyndall, 
and  deposits  of  Glacial  Drift.  Still  further  North,  the 
Laurentian  system  dips  beneath  the  waters  of  Lake 
Winnipeg  and  forms  the  Eastern  shore. 

The  Eastern  District  is  marked  by  the  final  occurrence 
toward  the  West  of  a  good  many  species  of  plants  be- 
longing to  Western  Ontario,  the  Winnipeg  River  valley 
being  roughly  the  Westerly  limit  of  their  distribution. 
Here  the  white  and  red  pine  disappear,  also  Acer  spica- 
tum  and  Pirus  Americana,  along  with  a  number  of  her- 
baceous plants  affecting  rocky  uplands. 

(2)  THE    NORTH-WESTERN    DISTRICT.     This   district 
sweeps  away  from  the  Red  River,  North  of  Winnipeg, 
to  the  North-Western  corner  of  the  Province.     It  is  ex- 
tensively wooded,  its  forests  consisting  of  poplar,  birch 
and  spruce,   accompanied   by  willows   and  bog-plants. 
At  intervals  it  is  broken  up  by  extensive  inter-glades  of 
lowlands,  which  produce  a  large  number  of  species  of 
grasses  and  sedges.     Its  extreme  North-Western  division 
is  an  interesting  region,  in  which  occur  the  Riding,  Duck 
and   Porcupine   Mountains,   with  which   are   associated 
many  lakes  and  rivers.     We  here  find  a  good  many- 
plants  which  also  occur  towards  the  East. 

(3)  THE   SOUTH-WESTERN   DISTRICT.     This  includes 
the  rising  ground  which  once  provided  the   Western 
shores  of  the  so-called  old  Lake  Agassiz.     The  various 
elevations,  such  as  the  Pembina  and  Turtle  Mountains, 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  159 

ultimately  became  the  first  prairie  plateau,  and  present 
a  flora  characteristic  of  the  high  prairie  regions.  In  the 
extreme  West  of  the  Province  are  even  found  t)''pes  be- 
longing to  the  semi-arid  regions  further  West.  Examples 
are :  Mamillaria  vivipara,  Opuntia  Missouriensis,  Arte- 
misia frigida,  and  Oxytropis  splendens.  The  series  of 
ridges  known  as  the  Pembina  Mountains  are  especially 
interesting,  for  they  produce  both  lowland  and  upland 
types  and  also  yield  a  few  rarities  such  as  Sanguinaria 
Canadensis.  The  Assiniboine  River  and  its  tributaries 
drain  a  large  part  of  this  plateau,  and  the  valleys,  par- 
ticularly that  of  the  Assiniboine — deeply  cut  through 
the  elevated  prairie — furnish  a  varied  and  profitable 
field  for  systematic  work. 

(4)  THE  CENTRAL  DISTRICT.  This  covers  the  alluvial 
region  of  the  Red  River  Valley.  Included  within  it  are 
the  low-lying  lands  on  both  sides  of  the  Red  River,  which 
extends  Westward  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Pembina  Moun- 
tains and  the  other  elevations  to  the  North  of  it.  This 
district  has  its  characteristic  flora,  a  marked  feature  of 
which  is  the  large  number  of  species  of  Compositae. 
Winnipeg  comes  within  this  district.  A  few  miles  North 
of  the  city  is  the  limestone  ridge  known  as  Stony  Moun- 
tain. Although  its  elevation  is  inconsiderable,  the 
rocky  substratum  furnishes  conditions  favourable  to  the 
growth  of  a  number  of  species  differing  greatly  from  those 
on  the  plain  a  few  feet  below.  Among  them  are  some 
which  are  not  common  in  any  other  part  of  the  Province, 
such  as  Gerardia  tenuifolia,  Boltonia  asteroides,  Boute- 
loua  racemosa,  and  the  curious  little  fern  Pellaea  atro- 
purpurea,  which  is  found  on  the  exposed  limestone 
boulders.  Within  the  bounds  of  the  City  of  Winnipeg 
is  located  the  Northern  limit  for  the  occurrence  of 
Amorpha  Gruticosa,  which,  so  far  as  the  writer  knows, 
is  confined  entirely  to  the  Red  River  Valley,  down  which 
it  has  travelled  from  Dakota. 


1GO  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

It  only  remains  to  be  added  that  beyond  the  Orders 
covered  by  the  accompanying  list  very  little  work  has 
been  done  in  collecting  and  recording  the  plants  of 
Manitoba.  The  Thallophyta  and  Bryophyta  have  been 
practically  left  untouched,  and  offer  an  inviting  field  for 
future  investigation. 


PHANEROGAMIA 
ANGIOSPERMAE 

DICOTYLEDONES 

Ranuculaceas : 

Clematis  Virginiana,  Linn. 
Anemone   patens. 

nemorosa. 
cylindrica. 
Virginiana. 
multifida. 
dichotoma. 
Thalictrum  dioicum. 

purpurascens.* 
sparsiflorum. 
Myosurus  minimus. 
Ranunculus  aquatilis,  var.  tricophyllus. 

var.  stagnatilis. 
multifudus,  var.  repens. 
Cymbalaria. 
rhomb  oideus. 
abortivus. 
acris. 

Pennsylvanicus. 
repens,     var.  hispidus. 
Macounii. 
scleratus.* 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  1G1 

Caltha  palustris. 
.\quilegia  Canadensis. 
Actaea  alba. 

spicata,  var.  rubra. 
Menispermaceae : 

Menispermuin  Canadense. 
Nymphaeceae: 

Nymphaea  odorata. 
Nuphar  adverna. 
pumilum. 
Sarraceniaceae : 

Sarracenia  purpurea. 
Papaveraceae : 

Sanguinaria  Canadensis. 
Fumariaceae : 

Corydalis   glauca. 
aurea. 
Crucif  erae : 

Nasturtium  palustre. 
Arabis  lyrata. 
hirsuta. 
Holbeolii. 
retrofracta. 
Drummondii. 

Barbarea  vulgaris,  var.  stricta 
Erysimum   cheiranthoides. 
asperum. 
parviflorum. 
Sisymbrium  canescens. 

incisum,  var.  Hartwegianum. 
Brassica   Sinapistrum. 

campestris. 
Draba  incana. 

nemorosa. 

Alyssum  calycinum. 
Vesicaria  Ludoviciana. 
Camelina  sativa. 


162  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Capsella  Bursa, — pastoris. 
Thlaspi  arvense. 
Lepidium  sativum. 

intermedium. 
Cappardaceae : 

Cleome  integrifolia 
Cistaceae : 

Helianthemum  Canadense. 
Violaceae : 

Viola  blanda. 
cucullata. 
delphinifolia. 
canina,  var.  sylvestris. 

var.  adunca 
Canadensis. 
pubescens. 
Nuttallii. 
Polygalaceae : 

Polygala  verticillata. 

Senega. 
Caryophyllaceae : 

Silene    antirrhina. 
noctiflora. 
Lychnis  Drummondii. 

Githago. 

Saponaria  vaccaria. 
Arenaria  Michanii. 
Stellaria  longifolia. 

longipes,  var.  minor. 
Cerastium  nutans. 
arvense. 
Sagina  nodosa. 
vSpergularia  media. 
Paronychiceae : 

Paronychia  sessiliflora. 
Portulacaceae : 

Portulaca  "oleracea. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  163 


Hypericaceae : 

Hypericum  ellipticum 
mutilum. 
Canadense 
Ascryon.* 

Elodes  Virginica. 
Malvaceae : 

Malva  rotundifolia. 

Malvastrum  coccineum 
Tiliaceas : 

Tilia  Americana. 
Linaceae : 

Linum   sulcatum. 
rigidum. 
perenne. 
usitatissimum. 
Geraniaceas : 

Geranium  .Carolinianum. 
Robertianum. 

Herodium  cicutarium. 

Impatiens  fulva. 

Oxalis  corniculata,  var.  stricta. 
Celastraceae : 

Celastrus  scandens. 
Rhamnaceae : 

Rhamnus  alnifolia. 
Vitaceas : 

Vitis  cordifolia. 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia. 
Sapindaceae : 

Acer  spicatum. 

Negundo  aceroides. 
Anacardiaceae : 

Rhus  toxicodendron. 
Leguminosae : 

Thermopsis  rhombifolia 

Trifolium  pratense. 


164  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Trifolium    repens. 

Melilotus  alba. 

officinalis. 
Medicago   lupulina. 

sativa. 

Hosackia  Pursliana. 
Psoralea  argophylla. 

esculcuta. 

Amorpha  canescens. 
fruticosa. 
microphylla. 

Petalostemon  candidus. 
violaceus. 

Glycyrhiza  lepidota. 
Astragalus   caryocarpus. 
adsurgens. 
hypoglottis. 
aboriginorum. 
bisulcatus. 
pectinatus, 
flexuosus. 
multoflorus. 
CanadensisA 
Oxytropis  campestris 
Lamberti. 
splendens. 
deflexa. 

Hedysarum  boreale. 
Desmodium  Canadense. 
Vicia  Americana. 
Lathyrus  venosus. 
palustris.* 
maritimus.* 
ochroleucus. 
Amphicarpaea  monoica. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  165 

Rosticeae : 

Prunus  Americana, 
pumila. 

Pennsylvanica. 
Virginiana. 
Spiraea  salicifolia. 
Rubus  Chamasmorus. 
articus. 
triflorus. 
strigosus. 
Geum   strictum. 
rivale. 
triflorum. 

Chamaerhodos  erecta. 
Fragaria  Virgiana. 

vesca. 
Potentilla  arguta. 

Norvegica. 

rivalis,  var.  millegrana. 
Hippiana. 
effusa. 
argentea. 
palustris. 
fruticosa. 
Anserina. 

Agrimonia  Eupatoria 
Rosa  blanda. 

Arkansana. 
Pyrus  Americana. 
Crataegus  coccinea. 
Amelanchier  alnifolia. 
Saxif  ragacaceae : 

Saxifraga  tricuspidata. 
Mitella  diphylla. 
Heuchera  hispida. 
Parnassia  palustris. 


16(3  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Ribes   oxyacanthoides. 
rub  rum. 
prostratum. 
Hudsonianum. 
fioridum. 

Droseraceae : 

Drosera  Anglica. 
linearis. 

Haloraceae : 

Myriophyllum  spicatum. 

Hippuris  vulgaris. 
Onagraceae : 

Epilobium   angustifolium. 
coloratum. 
palustre. 
paniculatvun. 
(Enothera  biennis. 

albicaulis. 
serrulata. 
Caura  coccinea. 
Circaea  alpina. 
Cucurbitaceae : 

Echinocystis  lobata. 
Cactaceae: 

Mamillaria  vivipara" 
Opuntia  Missouriensis. 
Umbellif  eras : 

Sanicula  Marylandica. 
Musenitim  divaricatum. 
Carum  Carui. 
Thaspium  trifoliatum. 
Cicuta  virosa. 
Lium  cicutaefolium. 
Osmorrhiza  longistylis. 

divaricata.* 

Peucedanum  foeniculaceum. 
Heracleum  lanatum. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  167 

Araliacese : 

Aralia  nudicaulis. 
Cornaceae : 

Cornus   Canadensis. 
stolonifera. 
Caprifoliceae : 

Sambucus  Canadensis. 
Viburnum  Lentago. 

pubescens. 
Opulus. 

Linnaea  borealis. 
Symphoricarpos   occidentalis. 

racemosus. 
Lonicera  Sullivantii. 

glauca. 

Diervilla  trifida. 
Rubiaceas : 

Houstonia  purpurea,  var.  longifolia. 
Galium  trifidum. 
triflorum. 
boreale. 
Composite*; : 

Eupatorium  purpureum. 
perfoliatum. 
Liatris  scariosa. 

punctata. 

Gutierrezia  Euthamiae. 
Grindelia  squarrosa. 
Chrysopsis  villosa. 
Haplopappus  spinulosus. 
Solidago  humilis,  var.  B. 
Missouriensis. 
Canadensis. 
rigida. 
lanceolata. 
Bellis  perennis. 
Townsendia  sericea. 


1(58  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Aster  laevis. 

cordifolius. 
Lindleyanus. 
multiflorus. 
Salicifolius. 
Novi-Belgii. 
ptarmicoides. 
lutescens. 
pauciflorus. 
umbellatus. 
miser. 

Erigeron  caespitosus. 
glabellus. 
Philadelphicus. 
strigosus. 
Canadense. 
Antennaria  plantaginifolia. 

dioica. 

Anaphalis  margaritacea. 
Iva   axillaris. 

xanthiifolia. 
Ambrosia  trifida. 

artimisiaefolia. 
psilostachya. 
Xanthium  Canadense. 
Heliopsis  scabra. 
Rudbeckia  hirta. 

laciniata. 
columnaris. 

Echinacea  angustifolia. 
Helianthus  rigidus. 

giganteus. 
annuus.* 
Maximiliani. 
Doronicoides. 
Bidens  frondosa. 
connata. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  169 

Bidens  cernua. 
Helenium  autumnale. 
Gaillardia  artista. 
Boltonia  asteroides. 
Achillea   Millefolium. 

multiflora. 
Manila  cotula. 

Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum. 
Matricaria  inodora. 
Artemisia  dracunculoides. 
Canadensis. 
cana. 

Leudoviciana,  var.  gnaphalodes. 
vrulgaris. 
biennis. 
frigida. 
Absinthium. 
Petasites  sagittata. 
Arnica  foliosa. 
alpina. 

Senecio  palustris. 
lugens. 
intergerimus. 
aureus,    var.  Balsamitae. 
canus. 

eremophilus. 
Jacobaea. 
Arctium  Lappa. 
Cnicus  undulatus. 

Drummondii. 
arvensis. 

Cichorium  Intybus. 
Crepis  runcinata. 
Hieracium  umbellatum. 
Troximon  glaucum. 
Taraxacum  omcinale,  var.  alpinum. 


170  THE  PHAXEROGAMIA   AND 

Latuca  pulchella. 

leucophaea. 
Prenanthes  alba. 

racemosa. 
Sonchus  oleraceus. 
asper. 
arvensis. 

Lygodesmia  juncea. 
Lobeliaceae : 

Lobelia  Dortmanna. 

spicata,  var.  hirtella. 
Kalmii. 
Campanulaceae : 

Campanula  rotundifolia. 
aparinoides.* 
Vacciniaceae : 

Vaccinium  Canadense. 
Vitis-Idaea. 
Oxycoccus  vulgaris. 
Chiogenes  hispidula. 
Ericaceae : 

Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ursi. 
Gaultheria  procumbens. 
Cassandra  calyculata. 
Cassiobe  tetragona. 
Andromeda  prolifolia. 
Kalmia  glauca. 
Ledum  latifolium. 
Pyrola  secunda. 
elliptica. 
rotundifolia. 
Monotropeae : 

Monotropa  uniflora. 
Primulaceae : 

Primula   farinosa. 

Mistassinica. 
Androsace  septentrionalis. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  171 

Dodecatheon  Meadia. 
Trientalis  Americana. 
Steironema  ciliatum. 
Lysimachia  thyrsiflora. 
Glaux  maritima. 
Centunculus  minimus. 
Oleaceae : 

Fraxinus  viridis. 
Apocynaceae : 

Apocynum  androsaemifolium. 

cannabinum. 
Asclepiadaceae : 

Asclepias    speciosa. 
ovalifolia. 
verticillata. 
Acerates  viridiflora. 
Gentianaceae : 

Gentiana  crinita. 
serrata. 

Amarella,  var.  acuta. 
var.  stricta. 
affinis. 
puberula. 
Andrewsii. 
alba. 

Halenia  deflexa. 
Menyanthes  trifoliata. 
Polemoniaceae : 

Phlox   Hoodii. 

canescens. 
Collomia  linearis. 
Hydrophyllaceae : 

Ellisia  Nyctelea. 
Borraginaceae : 

Heliotropium  Curassavicum 
Echinospermum   deflexum. 
Lappula. 


172  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Echinospermum   Redowskii. 
Eritrichium  glomeratum. 
Mertensia  paniculata. 
Lithospermum  canescens. 

angustifolium. 
Onosmodium  Carolinianum. 

Convolvulaceae : 

Convolvulus   spithamaeus. 

sepium,  var.  repens. 
Cuscuta  Gronovii. 

Solanaceae : 

Solanum  triflorum. 
Physalis  grandiflora. 
laneolata. 

Scrophulariaceae : 

Pentstemon  cristatus. 

acuminatus. 

confertus,  var.  caeruleo-purpureus. 
gracilis. 

Mimulus  ringens. 
Gratiola  Virginiana. 
Veronica  Americana, 
scutellata. 
peregrina. 
Gerardia  tenuifolia. 
Castilleia  coccinea. 
miniata. 
sessiliflora. 
Orthocarpus  luteus. 
Pedicularis  Canadensis. 

lanceolata. 
Orobanchacese : 

Aphyllon  fasciculatum. 
Lentibulariaceee : 

Utriculariavulgaris,  var.  Americana, 
intermedia. 


'  PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  173 

Verbenaceae : 

Verbena  hastata. 

bracteosa. 
Labiatae : 

Mentha  Canadensis. 
Lycopus  lucidus. 

sinuatus. 

Monarda  fistulosa,  var.  mollis. 
Lophanthus  anistatus. 
Nepeta  glechoma. 
Dracocephalum  parviflorum. 
Scutellaria  lateriflora. 

galericulata. 
Brunella  vulgaris. 
Physostegia  Virginiana. 
Stachys  palustris. 
Plantaginaceae : 

Plantago  major. 

eriopoda. 
decipiens. 
Nyctaginaceas : 

Oxybaphus  nyctagineus. 

hirsutus. 
Illecebraceae : 

Paronychia  sessiliflora. 
Amarantaceae: 

Amarantus   retroflexus. 

albus. 
Chenopodiacese : 

Monolepis  chenopodioides. 
Chenopodium  album. 

hybridum. 
glaucum. 
capitalum. 
rub  rum. 

Axyris  Amaranthoides. 
Atriplex  patula,  var.  hastata. 


17-i  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Atriplex   Nuttallii 
Salicornea  herbacea. 
Suaeda  depressa. 
Salsola  Kali,  var.  tragus 
Sarcobatus  vermiculatus. 
Polygonaceae : 

Erigonum  flavum. 
Polygonum  aviculare. 
erectum. 
ramosissimum. 
tenue. 

incarnatum. 

lapathifolium,  var.  incanum. 
amphibium. 
Muhlenbergii. 
Persicaria. 
Convolvulus. 

dumetorum,  var.  scandens 
Rumex  occidentalis. 
Salicifolius. 
crispus. 
maritimus. 
Aristolachiaceae : 

Asarum  Canadense. 
Elaeagnaceae : 

Elaeagnus  argentea. 
Shepherdis  Canadensis. 

argentea. 
Santalacese : 

Comandra  umbellata. 
pallida. 
livida 
Euphorbiaceae : 

Euphorbia  maculata. 
Urticaceae : 

Ulmus  Americana. 
Humulus  lupulus 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  175 

Laportea  Canadensis.* 
Urtica  gracilis. 

dioica. 

Parietaria  Pennsylvania. 
Cupulif  erae : 

Betula  lutea. 

papyrifera. 
pumila. 
Alnus  incana. 
Ostrya  Virginica 
Corylus  rostrata. 

Americana. 
Quercus  macrocarpa. 
Salicineas: 

Salix  Candida, 
cordata. 
discolor, 
longifolia. 
lucida. 
nigra. 
rostrata. 

Populus   tremuloides. 
balsamifera. 
monilifera. 
Empetraceae : 

Empetrum  nigrum. 
Ceratophylleae : 

Ceratophyllum  demersum 

MONOCOTYLEDONES. 

Hydrocharidaceae : 

Elodea  Canadense. 
Orchidaceae : 

Microstylis  monophyllos. 

Ophioglossoides. 


176  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Calypso  borealis. 
Corallorhiza  innata. 
Listeria  convallarioides. 
Spiranthes  Romanzoviana. 

gracilib. 

Goodyera  repens. 
Orchis  rotundifolia. 
Habenaria  bracteata. 
hyperborea. 
dilatata. 
obtusata. 
orbiculata. 
psycyodes. 

Cypripedium  parviflorum. 
pubescens. 
spectabile. 
candidum. 
Iridaceae : 

Iris  versicolor. 
Sisyrhincium  mucronatum. 
Amaryllidaceae : 

Hypoxys  erecta 
Liliaceae : 

Smilax  herbacea. 
Asparagus  officinalis. 
Polygonatum  giganteum. 
Streptopus  amplexifolius. 
Smilacina  stellata. 
Maianthemum  Canadense. 
Allium  cernuum. 

reticulatum. 
Lilium  Philadelphicum. 
Disporum  trachycarpa. 
Clintonia  borealis. 
Trillium  erectum,  var.  declinatus. 
Lygadens  elevans. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  177 

Juncaceae: 

Juncus    Balticus,  var.  montanus. 
tenuis. 
longystylis. 
alpinus. 
nodosus,  var.  genuinus. 

var.  megacephalus. 
Typhaceae : 

Typha  lastifolia. 
Sparganium  eurycarpum. 

minimum. 
Aroideae : 

Calla  palustris. 
Acorus  Calamus. 
Lemnaceae : 

Lemna   trisulca. 
minor, 
polyrrhiza. 
Alismaceae : 

Alisma  Plantago. 
Sagittaria  variabilis. 
Naiadaceae : 

Triglochin  palustre. 

maritimum. 
Potamogeton  natans. 

amplifolius. 

gramineus,  var.  heterophyllus. 
pusillus. 
mucronatus. 
marinus. 
pectinatus. 

Zannichellia  palustris. 
Cyperaceae : 

Heleveharis  palustris. 
tenuis. 
acicularis. 
pauciflora. 


178  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Scirpus  pungens. 
lacustris. 
maritirnus. 
rufus. 
F.riophorum  alpinum. 

vaginatum. 
polystachyon. 
Carex   filifolia. 

polytrichoides. 

scirpoidea. 

obtusata. 

Baekii. 

siccata. 

disticha. 

Douglasii. 

Marcida. 

teretiuscula,  var.   ramosa. 

stipata. 

rosea. 

stenophylla. 

festiva. 

canescens. 

areta. 

Deweyana. 

echinata,  var.  microstachys. 

pratensis. 

scoparia. 

straminea,  v.v. 

alpina. 

aurea. 

flava. 

aquatilis. 

tetanica. 

granularis. 

Crawei. 

Torreyi. 

eburnea. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  179 

Carex    Pennsylvanica. 
Assiniboinensis. 
longirostris. 
capillaris. 

rostrata,  var.  utriculata. 
Pseudo-Cyperus. 
trichocarpa  varistata. 
Gramineae : 

Beckmania  erucaeformis. 
Panicum   capillare. 
Crus-galli. 
pauciflorum. 
Spartina  cynosuroides. 

grecilis. 

Zizania  aquatica. 
Andropogon   provincialis. 

seoparius. 

Chrysopogon  nutans. 
Phalaris  arundinacea. 
Hierochloe  borealis. 

Alopecuris  geniculatus,  var.  aristulatus. 
Stipaspartea. 

viridula. 

Oryzopsis  cuspidata. 
Muhlenbergia  glomerata. 
Phleum  pratense. 
Sporobulus   cuspidatus. 

depauperatus. 
heterolepis. 
Agrostis  scabra. 
Cinna  pendula. 
Deyeuxia  Canadensis. 
neglecta. 
Maccuniana. 
Ammophila  longifolia. 
Deschampsia  caespitosa. 
Avena  fatua. 


180  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Avena  pratensis,  var.  Americana. 

striata. 

Danthornia  spicata. 
Bouteloua  oligostachya. 

racemosa. 

Phragmites  communis. 
Koeleria  cristata. 
Eatonia  Pennsylvanca. 
Distichlis  maritima,  var.  stricta. 
Dactylis  glomerata 
Foa  caesia. 

compressa. 
laxa. 
pratensis. 
serotina. 
tenuiflora. 
Glyceria  arundinacea. 

fluitans. 
Festuca  ovina. 

rubra. 

Bromus  breviaristattis. 
ciliatus. 
Kalami. 
Pumpellianus. 
Lolium  perenne. 
Agropyrum   caninum. 

dasystachyum. 
glaucum. 
tenerum. 

Hordeum  jubatum. 
Elymus  Canadensis. 
Virginicus. 


PTERIDOPHYTA  OF  MANITOBA  181 

PTERIDOPHYTA. 


Equisetaceae : 

Equisetum  arvense. 
pratense. 
palustre. 
laevigatum. 
variegatum. 
scirpoides. 
Ophioglossaceae : 

Botrychium  Lunaria. 
ternatum. 

Virginianum.* 
Filices : 

Polypodium  vulgare. 
Pellaea  atropurpurea. 
Pteris  aquilina. 
Asplenium  Filix-foemine. 
Phegopteris  polypodioides. 

Dryopteris. 
Aspidium  Thelypteris. 

cristatum. 

marginale. 

spinulosum. 

fragens. 

Cystopteris  fragilis. 
Onoclea  Struthiopteris. 

sensibilis. 
Osmunda  regalis. 

cinnamomea. 


182  THE  PHANEROGAMIA  AND 

Lycopodiaceae : 

Lycopodium  annotinum. 

complanatum. 

Selaginaceae : 

Selaginella  rupestris. 

Marsileaceae : 

Marsilea  mucronata. 

GYMNOSPERM^). 

Conifer  3e : 

Thuya  occidentalis. 
Juniperus  communis. 

Sabina,  var.  procumbens. 
Taxus  baccata,  var.  Canadensis. 
Pinus  strobus. 

resinosa. 

Banksiana. 
Picea   nigra. 

alba. 

Abies  balsamea. 
Larix  Americana. 


FAUNA  OF  MANITOBA 

(Mammals  and  Birds) 

By  ERNEST  THOMPSON  SETON, 

Naturalist  to  tha  Government  of  Manitoba. 

MANITOBA  is  268  by  252  miles,  or  74,448  square 
miles.     It  lies  wholly   within  the   great   wheat 
belt  of  the  north-west,  but  faunally  speaking  it  is 
in  the  Temperate   Region,  partly  in  the  Canadian  Life- 
zone  and  partly  in  the  Alleghanian  portion  of  the  Tran- 
sition Zone.     A  line  drawn  from  the  south-east  corner 
to  the  north-west  corner  would  nearly  demark    these 
two  zones.     The  Canadian  area,  north-east  of  this  line, 
is  nearly  all  forested.     The  prevailing  trees  being  black 
spruce,  white  spruce  and  jack  pine.     The  Alleghanian 
area,  south-west  of  the  line,  comprises  the  prairies  of 
the  Province,  and  a  considerable  region  of  aspen  forest. 
Riding,  Duck  and  Porcupine  Mountains  may  be  con- 
sidered Canadian  islands  in  the  Alleghanian  region. 

MAMMALS   OF   MANITOBA 

(The  nomenclature  is  that  of  the  United  States  Biological 
Survey.) 

1 .  Wapiti  or  Canadian  Elk,  Cervus  canadensis  Erxleben. 
Formerly  found  in  all  the  Alleghanian  region  of  the 
Province.     Reduced   to   a   few   stragglers   twenty 
years  ago,  but  since  then,  owing  to  good  game  laws, 
they  have  speedily   increased   and    now  furnish  a 
regular  supply  of  game.     The  estimated  number  of 
Wapiti  in  Manitoba  to-day  is  5,000. 

2.  Northern  White-tailed  Deer,  Odocoileus  virginianus 
borealis  Miller.       Unknown    in  the  Province  until 


184  FAUNA 

about  thirty  years  ago,  since  then  it  has  greatly 
increased,  following  the  settlers ;  now  found  wherever 
there  are  settlements  adjoining  woods. 

3.  Mule-deer,  Odocoileus  hemionus  (Rafinesque).     For- 
merly  abundant   in   all   the    Alleghanian    Region; 
greatly  reduced  some  twenty  years  ago,  but  now 
once  more  abundant  in  its  proper  region,  wherever 
there  is  cover  combined  with  broken  ground. 

4.  Moose,  Alces  americanus  Jardine.     Abundant  in  all 
'  the  forested  area  of  the  Province;  apparently  in  no 

danger  of  extinction,  since  reasonable  game  laws 
have  come  in  force.  Several  thousand  are  killed 
each  year  in  the  Province.  The  estimated  total 
head  of  Moose  within  our  limits  is  between  20,000 
and  30,000. 

5.  Woodland    Caribou,    Rangijer    caribou    (Gmelin) . 
Found  only  in  the  Canadian  region,  and  nowhere 
common.     It  is  more  or  less  migratory,   coming 
fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  farther  south  for  the 
winter. 

6.  Prong-horned  Antelope,  Antilocapra  americana 
(Ord).     Formerly  found  in  all  the  prairies  of  the 
south-west.     Recorded  once  or  twice  in  early  days 
very  near  Winnipeg;  last  seen  on  the  Souris  about 
1881.     Now  extinct  in  the  Province. 

7.  American  Bison  or  Buffalo,  Bison  bison  (Linnaeus). 
Formerly  found  in  great  abundance  on  all  the  prai- 
ries of  Manitoba.     Last  seen  wild  near  Winnipeg  in 
1819.     Last  great  wild  herd  on  the  Souris  1867;  the 
last  wild  individual  on  the  Souris  1883. 

8.  Red-squirrel,  Sciuus  hudsonicus  Erxleben.     Abun- 
dant in  every  timbered  portion  of  Manitoba,  and 
active  the  year  round. 

9.  Eastern  Chipmunk,  Tamias  striatus  griseus  Mearns. 
Abundant  in  the  woods  of  the  south-eastern  part  of 


OF  MANITOBA.  185 

the  country  and  westward  to  Portage  la  Prairie. 
Hibernating  during  the  winter. 

10.  Little  Chipmunk,  Eutamias  quadrivittatus  neglectus 

(Allen) .     Of  general  distribution  in  the  southern 

half  of  the  Province  wherever  there  is  timber  and 

•'dry  land.     Exceedingly  abundant,  living  like  the 

preceding.     Hibernating  all  winter. 

1 1 .  Franklin  Ground-squirrel,  Citellus  jranklini  (Sabine) . 
Abundant  in  all  the  Alleghanian  Region  of  Mani- 
toba wherever  there  is  woodland  alternating  with 
open  sunny  places.     Like  the  rest  of  the  Ground- 
squirrels  it  is  quite  omnivorous,  but  stores  up  only 
vegetable  substances  for  bad  weather  supplies.     It 
hibernates  for  six  months  of  each  year. 

12.  Richardson    Ground-squirrel,    Citellus    richardsoni 
(Sabine) .     Exceedingly  abundant  on  all  the  dry 
rolling   prairies   west   of   Pembina   Mountain   and 
south  of  Lake  Manitoba  extending  up  a  little  way 
in  the  Gilbert  Plains  country  and  the  Upper  Assini- 

boine.     Hibernating  all  winter. 

13.  Striped    Ground-squirrel,    Citellus    tridecemlineatus 
(Mitchill).     Common  on  all  the  prairies  of  Mani- 
toba, but  much  less  so  than  in  primitive  times.    Its 
burrow  is  so  easily  disturbed  by  the  plow  that  culti- 
vation is  bound  to  exterminate  it.     It  hibernates 
for  six  months  of  each  year. 

14.  Woodchuck,  Marmota  monax  canadensis  (Erxleben) . 
Found  in  all  parts  of  the  Province  where  there  is 
dry  woods,  but  nowhere  abundant.     More  common 

,  probably  about  Duck  Mountain  than  elsewhere.    It 
hibernates  for  four  or  five  months  of  the  year. 

15.  Canadian  Flying-squirrel,  Sciuropterus  sabrinus 
(Shaw).     Common   in   all   parts   of  the   country. 
Some  years  very  abundant,  but  rarely  seen  on  ac- 
count of  its  nocturnal  habits.     It  is  active  all  winter. 


186  FAUNA 

16.  Canada  Beaver,  Castor  canadensis  Kuhl.       Formerly 
very  abundant  in  all  parts  of  Manitoba.     Reduced 
to  very  few  some  years  ago,  but  owing  to  fostering 
laws  it  has  since  increased  and  may  once  more 
become  plentiful. 

17.  Common  House-mouse,  M-us  musculus  Linnaeus. 
Introduced  with  settlers  in  1882;  now  abundant  in 

,   all  towns. 

18.  Grasshopper-mouse,  Onychomys  leucogaster  (Wied). 
Found  only  on  the   dry  prairies  at  the  extreme 
south-western  corner  of  the  Province. 

19.  Arctic  Deermouse,  Peromyscus  maniculatus  arcticus 
(Mearns).     Abundant  throughout  the  country 
wherever  there  is  woods;  especially  fond  of  fre- 
quenting barns  and  outbuildings  that  are  near  the 
edge  of  the  forest.     Closely  related  to  it,  probably 
mere   races,    are   the    Prairie   Deermouse    (bairdi) 
found  in  the  prairie  regions  and  the  plains,  or  Ne- 
braska   Deermouse    (nebrascensis)    found    in    the 
Souris  country.    True  maniculatus  should  be  found 
in  western  Manitoba. 

20.  Red-backed  Vole,  Evotomys  gapperi  (Vigors).     Gen- 
erally distributed  throughout  the  Province,  though 
nowhere  abundant.     It  appears  in  two  races,  the 
bright  colored,  large  prairie  race  (loringt)  and  the 
small  dark  race  of  the  Canadian  woods 


21.  Drummond  Vole,  Microtus  pennsylvauicus  drum- 
mondi  (Audubon  and  Bachman).     Abundant  in  all 
sedgy  regions  of  the  Province.     A  harmless  species 
when  not  in  excessive  numbers,  confining  itself  to 
lowlands  overgrown  with  tall  grass. 

22.  Little  Vole,  Microtus  minor  (Merriam).     Generally 
distributed  in  the  south-west  or  Alleghanian  region, 
but  nowhere  very  abundant. 


OF  MANITOBA.  187 

23.  Muskrat,  Fiber  zibethicus  (Linnaeus) .  Found  in  great 
numbers  wherever  there  is  water  throughout  the 
Province.     This  animal  is  an  important  fur-bearer. 
Two  million  of  its  skins  are  shipped  to  London 
every  year  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  repre- 
senting of  course  the  entire  north-west.    It  lives  in 
the  water,  and  is  rarely  seen  away  from  it  except 
when  forced  to  migrate. 

24.  Northern  Bog-lemming,  Synaptomys  borealis  (Rich- 
ardson).    Never  actually  taken  in  the  Province, 
but    recorded    from    surrounding   localities    which 
justify  its  inclusion.     It  is  abundant  in  the  far 
north,  but  not  elsewhere  common. 

25.  Gray  Pocket-gopher,  Thomomys  talpoides   (Richard- 
son).    Abundant  on  the  high,  dry  prairies  of  Mani- 
toba, but  not  extending  very  far  into  the  woods. 
It  is  commonly  called  Mole  by  the  residents, as  it 
forced  up  mounds  of  earth  in  the  fashion  of  the 
Mole.     It  is,  however,  a  herbivorous  rodent. 

26.  Jumping-mouse,  Zapus  hudsonius  (Zimmermann) . 
This  extraordinary  creature,  famous  for  its  long 
tail  and  its  jumping  habits,  is  found  throughout 
Manitoba,  except  on  the  bare  prairies.     It  appears 
in  two  forms.  The  typical  Hudsonian,  found  in  the 
Canadian  forest,  and  the  prairie  form  (campestris) , 
a  bright  colored  race  peculiar  to  the  woodland  edges 

T   in  the  prairie  portions  of  the  south-west. 

27.  Canada  Porcupine,  Erethizon  dorsatum  (Linnaeus). 
Generally  distributed  in  the  Canadian  area  of  Mani- 
toba, but  nowhere  abundant.     Its  quills  were  for- 
merly the  favorite  material  for  embroidery  among 
the  Indians,  but  in  recent  times  the  squaws  have 
used  glass  beads  in  preference,  so  that  the  art  is 
dying  out. 


188  FAUNA 

28.  Snowshoe-hare  or  White-rabbit,  Lepus  araericanus 
phaeonotus  Allen.     Found  in  all  parts  of  Manitoba 
wherever  there  is  cover.     In  summer  it  is  brown,  in 
winter  pure  white.      In  Turtle  Mountain  it  is  repre- 
sented by  the  race  bishopi,  distinguished  by  its  short 
ears  and  pale  color.     The  prevailing  form  in  Mani- 
toba is  the  dusky  backed  race  (phaeonotus) .     This 
hare  has  long  been  noted  for  the  excessive  fluctua- 
tion of  its  numbers  in  cycles  of  seven  to  ten  years. 
One  hundred  or  more  may  be  seen  every  day  when 
its  numbers  are  at  its  height,  but  usually  the  plague 
breaks  out  at  this  time  and  speedily  reduces  the 
Snowshoe  population  to  near  zero. 

29.  Prairie-hare,    Lepus    campestris    Bachman.     For- 
merly found  only  in  the  extreme  south-west  of  the 
Province,  and  exceedingly  rare;  now  abundant  in 
all  the  prairie  regions,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of 
cultivated  fields. 

30.  Canada  Lynx,  Lynx  canadensis  Kerr.     Found  in  all 
the  wooded   parts   of  the   Province,   but   varying 
greatly  in  numbers  on  different  years. 

31.  Kit-fox  or  Swift,    Vulpes  velox    (Say).     Formerly 
common  on  the  high  dry  prairie  of  the  south-west; 
now  exterminated  within  our  limits. 

32.  Royal  Fox,  Vulpes  regalis  Merriam.     Common  on 
the  prairies  of  the  province;  probably  replaced  in 
the  woods  by  the  form  called  julvus.     Less  nu- 
merous than  formerly. 

33.  Gray- wolf  or  Buffalo- wolf,  Canis  occidentalis  Rich- 
ardson.    Generally  distributed,  but  nowhere  com- 
mon. 

34.  Prairie-wolf  or  Coyote,  Canis  latrans  Say.     Abun- 
dant in  all  the  south-western  half  of  Manitoba; 
probably  as  numerous  now  as  in  the  days  before 
settlement. 


OF  MANITOBA  189 

35.  Canada  Otter,  Lutra  canadensis  (Schreber).    Found 
all  along  the  rivers,  but  exceedingly  rare  now. 

36.  Bonaparte  Weasel,  Putorius  cicognanii  (Bonaparte). 
Common  in  most  parts  of  the  Province,  but  varying 
greatly  in  numbers  on  different  years. 

37.  Least  Weasel,  Putorius  rixosus  Bangs.      Nowhere 
numerous,  but  ranging  over  the  whole  Province. 
This  is  the  smallest  known  beast  of  prey. 

38.  Long-tailed    Weasel,    Putorius   longicauda    (Bona- 
parte) .     Abundant  in  all  the  prairie  region  of  Mani- 
toba, etc. 

39.  Mink,    Putorius     vison      (Schreber).       Abundant 
throughout  the  Province  wherever  there  is  water 
and  swamp. 

40.  Spruce  Marten,  Mustela  americana  abieticola  Preble. 
Found  only  in  the  coniferous  forest,  and  rare  there. 

41.  Pekan  or  Fisher,  Mustela  pennanti  Erxleben.  Found 
only  in  the  coniferous  forest,  and  rare. 

42.  Wolverene,  Gulo  luscus    (Linnaeus).     Rare    every- 
where, but  found  in  most  of  the  heavily  timbered 
parts  of  North-eastern  Manitoba. 

43.  Prairie    Skunk,    Mephitis    hudsonica    Richardson. 
This  large  Skunk  is  abundant,  especially  in  the  half- 
wooded  region. 

44.  Common  Badger,  Taxidea  taxus  (Schreber).     Com- 
mon in  all  prairie  region,  but  not  found  in  the 
woods;  it  is  less  common  than  before  settlement. 

45.  Raccoon,  Procyon  lotor  (Linnaeus).     Very  rare  and 
confined  to  the  south-western  part  of  the  Province, 
along  rivers  whose  banks  are  heavily  wooded. 

46.  Grizzly-bear,  Ursus  horribilis  Ord.  '  Now  extinct  in 
Manitoba,    for    perhaps    100    years.     The    records 


190  FAUNA 

show  that  at  one  time  there  were  Grizzlies  in  all  the 
Pembina  Hills,  Brandon  Hills  and  Turtle  Mountain 
regions. 

47.  Black-bear,  Ursus  americanus  Pallas.     Quite  com- 
mon yet  in  all  parts  of  Manitoba  where  there  is 
cover.     Both  black  and  brown  phases  occur  in  the 
same  litter. 

48.  Cooper   Shrew,   Sorex   personatus   I.    Geoffroy   St. 
Hilaire.     Generally  distributed,  and  very  abundant 
in  some  seasons. 

49.  Richardson    Shrew,    Sorex  richardsoni     Bachman. 
Apparently  of  general  distribution,  but  not  common 
I  have  records  from  Carberry,  Shoal  Lake,  Norway 
House,  etc. 

50.  Hoy  Shrew,  Microsorex  hoyi  (Baird).     All  of  Mani- 
toba falls  within  the  known  range  of  this  species. 
Yet  there  is  but  one  actual  record,  that  from  Red 
River  Settlement. 

51.  Marsh-shrew,  Neosorex  palustris  (Richardson).    All 
Manitoba  falls  within  its  known  range,  but  there  are 
only  two  or  three  records.     It  is  an  inhabitant  of 
marshes  and  river  banks,  nowhere  common. 

52.  Mole-shrew,  Blarina  brevicauda  (Say) .     Found  only 
in  the  woods  east  of  Winnipeg;  common  there. 

53.  Star-nosed  Mole,  Condylura  cristata  (Linnaeus) .    Re- 
corded once  from  Winnipeg,  but  rare,  and  near  the 
west  end  of  its  range  at  this  point. 

54.  Little  Brown-bat,  Myotis  lucifugus  (Le  Conte).    All 
Manitoba   falls  within  its   known  range.     But   I 
know  of  but  one  specimen  taken  within  our  limits; 
that  I  got  from  Poplar  Point. 

55.  Say  Bat,  Myotis  subulatus  (Say).     The  accredited 
range  of  this  Bat  includes  Manitoba,  and  the  re- 


OF  MANITOBA  191 

cords  nearly  surround  the  Province,  but  it  has  not 
yet  been  taken  in  our  limits. 

50.  Silver-haired  Bat,  Lasionycteris  noctivagans  (Le 
Conte).  This  species  is  commonly  and  generally 
distributed  in  Manitoba.  It  comes  from  the  south 
about  the  vernal,  and  retires  about  the  autumnal 
equinox. 

57.  Big  Brown-bat,  Eptesicus  fuscus  (Beauvois).    There 
is  a  single  Lake  Winnipeg  record  for  this  species 
Its  proper  range  is  to  the  southward,  and  Manitoba 
is  its  northmost  limit  so  far  as  known. 

58.  Red-bat,  Lasiurus  borealis   (Muller).     The  records 
show  that  this  handsome  bat  is  found  in  all  the 
south-western  part  of  the  Province  as  a  summer 
visitant. 

59.  Hoary-bat,  Lasiurus  cinereus  (Beauvois).     This  fine 
species  is  found  in  all  parts  of  Manitoba.     It  is 
somewhat  common,  and,  like  the  rest  of  our  Bats, 
is  a  migrant,  never,  so  far  as  known,  hibernating 
within  our  limits. 

THE  BIRDS  OF  MANITOBA 

(The  nomenclature  used  is  that  of  the  A.O.U.  latest 
check  list.) 

1.  Swan-grebe,    Western   Grebe.     Aechmophorus  occi- 
dentalis.     Common  summer  resident  in  parts  of  the 
Alleghanian    region,    chiefly    towards    the    north. 
Quite  common  at  Shoal  Lake,  near  Lake  Manitoba, 
breeding  in  colonies  in  the  marshes  about  Lake 
Winne'pegosis.     Very  local  in  distribution. 

2.  Silver-cheeked   Grebe,  Holboell    Grebe.    Colymbus 
holboelli.     Summer  resident  in  Red  River  Valley. 


192  FAUNA 

Breeding  in  most  of  the  large  marshes  of  the  Alle- 
ghanian  portion  of  Manitoba. 

o.  Horned  Grebe.  Colymbus  auritus.  Abundant  sum- 
mer resident  throughout  the  Province,  April  to 
October. 

4.  American  Eared-grebe.     Colymbus  nigricollis  cali- 
jornicus.     A  common  summer  resident  in  all  the 
prairie  region,  but  not  yet  found  in  the  Canadian 
or  north-eastern  half  of  the  Province. 

5.  Pied-billed  Grebe,  Dabchick.     Podilymbus  podiceps. 
Common  summer  resident  in  all  parts  of  the  Pro- 
vince where  there  are  small  ponds,  from  mid-April 
to  October. 

(>.  Loon.  Gavia  immer.  Common  summer  resident 
on  all  the  large  lakes  and  rivers  that  are  well  sup- 
plied with  fish. 

7.  Red-throated  Loon.     Gavia  stellata.     Rare;  known 
only  as  a  migrant. 

8.  Long-tailed    Skua.     Stercorarius    longicaudus.      In 
September,  189(>,  Samuel  Slater  brought  to  Alex- 
ander Calder  of  Winnipeg,  in  whose  collection  it 
now  is,   an  immature  Long-tailed  Skua,   shot  on 
Lake  Winnipeg.     Its  dimensions  are:  Length,  16^ 
inches;  wing  12  inches;  tail,  6X  inches;  tarsus,  1^ 
inches;  middle  toe  and  claw,  1^  inches.     All  above 
sooty,  except  the  neck,  which  is  cream  color,  and 
crown,  which  is  sharply  blackish. 

9.  American  Herring-gull.     Larus  argentatus.      Abun- 
dant; of  general  distribution.     Breeding  in  all  the 
large  lakes  and  prairie  ponds.     Arrives  April  20. 

10.  Ring-billed    Gull.    Larus  delawarensis .       Common 
summer  resident.     Breeding  in  all  the  lakes  and 
large  prairie  ponds. 

11.  Franklin  Gull,  Rosy  Gull.     Lams   iranklini.    Abun- 


OF  MANITOBA  193 

dant;  common  summer  resident,  breeding  in  most 
of  the  large  marshes  of  the  Alleghanian  region. 

12.  Bonaparte    Gull.     Larus    Philadelphia.      Regular 
summer  visitant.     A  few  breed  on  the  large  lakes 
of  the  Province  region. 

13.  Forster  Tern.     Sterna  forsteri.     Common   summer 
resident*  breeding  about  the  larger  lakes. 

14.  Common   Tern.     Sterna    hirundo.     Common   sum- 
mer resident  on  the  large  lakes,  breeding  with  the 
preceding. 

15.  Black    Tern.     Hydrochelidon    nigra    surinamensis . 
Abundant  summer  resident  everywhere,  breeding 
in  colonies  on  the  prairie  ponds.     Arrives  May  20; 
departs  August  30. 

1C.  Double-crested  Cormorant,  Crow-duck.  Phalacro- 
corax  auritus.  Generally  distributed,  and  breeding 
in  colonies  about  the  large  lakes  of  the  Alleghanian 
part  of  the  country. 

17.  American   White   Pelican.     Pelecanus   erythrorhyn- 
chos.     Apparently  of  general  distribution,  breeding 
about  most  of  the  lakes,  chiefly  west  of  Lake  Winni- 
peg; less  numerous  than  formerly. 

18.  American   Merganser,    Sheldrake.     Mergus    ameri- 
canus.     Common  summer  resident,  breeding  com- 
monly in  the  rivers   of  the  Lake    Winnipegoosis 
basin. 

19.  Red-breasted  Merganser,    Fish-duck.     Mergus  ser- 
rator.     Common  summer  resident.     Generally  dis- 
tributed, but  breeding  only  in  the  northernly  parts 
of  the  Province. 

20.  Hooded  Merganser.     Lophodytes  cucullatus.     Com- 
mon   summer    resident    of    general    distribution, 


194  FAUNA 

breeding  wherever  it  finds  hollow  trees  near   the 
water. 

21.  Mallard.  Anas-  platyrhycnhos .      Very    abundant 
summer  resident     everywhere,     breeding    in     all 
marshes.  Arrives   April    15;   departs  late   in    Oc- 
tober. 

22.  Black  Mallard  or  Dusky    Duck.      Anas  rubripes. 
Very  rare.     Three  or  four  specimens  taken  at  Long 
Lake  in  four  years.     In  my  collection  is  a  specimen 
from  Shoal  Lake,  taken  by  Geo.  H.  Measham  in 
1901,  and  another  taken  near  Winnipeg,  by  W.  R. 
Hine.     According  to  Measham,  two  more  were  shot 
at  Shoal  Lake  in  1899.     C.  C.  Helliwell  reports  one 
taken  on  Lake  Manitoba  in  the  fall  of  1898. 

23.  Gad  wall.     Chaulelasmus    streperus.     Common, 
breeding  about  all  the  large  lakes  and  the  ponds  of 
the  prairie  region. 

24.  Baldpate  or  Widgeon.     Mareca  americana.     Sum- 
mer  resident.     Not    common,    but   generally    dis- 
tributed and  breeding. 

25.  Green-winged    Teal.     Nettion    carolinense.     Abun- 
dant summer  resident  everywhere ;  breeding.     Ar- 
rives April  20;  departs  in  October. 

26.  Blue-winged   Teal.      Querquedula    discors.      Very 
abundant  summer  resident.     Arrives  late  in  April; 
departs  early  in  October. 

27.  Shoveller.    Spatula    clypeata.     Common    summer 
resident    everywhere.     Departs    late    in    October, 
like   the   other   Ducks,    when   the   frost   seals   the 
ponds. 

28.  Pintail.     Daf-ila     acuta.      Common    summer    resi- 
dent, breeding.     Arrives  late  in  mid- April;  departs 
in  October. 


OF  MANITOBA  195 

29.  Wood-duck.     Aix    sponsa.     A    rare    but    regular 
summer  visitant  as  far  north  as  Lakes  Winnipeg 
and  Winnipegosis.     I  saw  a  pair  taken  at  Carberry 
in  1883,  and  in  1886  got  a  male  at  Kenora.     It  is 
reported  from  Cook's  Creek,  Westbourne,  Portage 
la  Prairie,  Lake  Winnipegosis.     Over  a  dozen  were 
taken  on  the  Souris  River,  about  25  miles  south- 
west of  Brandon,  between  1882  and  1899,  by  H.  W. 
O.  Boger.     Three  were  killed  at  Brandon  by  C.  C. 
Helliwell,  who  saw  also  two  on  the  roof  of  the  town 
station,  one  day  about  1890.     G.  H.  Measham  re- 
ports it  rare  at  Shoal  Lake,  but  one  or  two  are  seen 
there  each  year. 

These,   with   previous  records,   completely  spot 

the  map  of  south-western  Manitoba.     The  species 

is    doubtless    found    throughout    the    Alleghanian 

region  of  the   Province,   as  it  has  been  recorded 

from  Qu'Appelle  and  Cumberland  House. 

30.  Redhead.     Mania  americana.     Abundant  summer 
resident    of   the    Alleghanian    region.     Arrives    in 
April;  departs  in  October. 

31.  Canvas-back.     Marila   vallisneria.     Generally   dis- 
tributed in  the  Alleghanian  region  and  breeding, 
but  nowhere  common. 

32.  American  Scaup-duck,  Big  Blue-bill.   Marila  marila. 
Common  in  spring  and  fall  in  all  parts  of  Manitoba ; 
a  few  may  breed  in  the  northern  district.     Arrives 
late  in  April;  departs  in  October. 

33.  Lesser  Scaup-duck,  Little  Blue-bill.     Marila  affinis. 
Very  abundant  summer  resident  in  all  parts  of  the 
Province.     Breeds. 

34.  Ring-necked  Duck,  Marsh  Blue-bill.     Marila  col- 
lar is.     A  rare  summer  resident.     Reported  from 
Winnipeg,  Portage  la  Prairie,  Waterhen  River. 


196  FAUNA 

35.  American  Golden-eye,    Whistler.     Clangula   ameri- 
cana.     A    common    sximmer  resident    in  all  parts 
of  Manitoba  where  there  are  large  trees  near  water. 

36.  Barrow  Golden-eye.     Clangula  islandica.     "1  shot 
a  brace  at  Lake  Manitoba  in  1879,  and  a  drake  at 
Shoal  Lake  in  the  spring  of  the  following  year. 
And  I  saw  a  drake  which  was  killed  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Red  River."      ( R.  H.  Hunter.} 

37.  Bufflehead.     Charitonetta    albeola.     Common    sum- 
mer resident  wherein  there  is  timber  and  water. 
Arrives  April  15;  departs  in  October. 

38.  White-winged  Scoter.     Oidemia  deglandi.     Summer 
resident,    breeding   in    marshy    ponds.     Found    it 
quite  common  at  Shoal  Lake. 

39.  Surf  Scoter.     Oidemia  perspicillata.     Rare  migrant; 
reported  from  Lake  Winnipeg  (Hine),  Red  River 
(Hunter),  Nelson  River  (Blakiston). 

40.  Ruddy   Duck.     Erismatura    Jamaicensis.     A.   sum- 
mer visitant;  not  common,  erratic  in  distribution. 
Breeds  in  most  of  the  large  marshes. 

41.  Blue  Goose,  Silver  Brant.     Chen  caerulescens .  Noted 
as  a  rare  migrant.     Specimens  taken  at  Winnipeg, 
Portage  la  Prairie  and  Brandon.     At  Fort  Chipe- 
wyan,  Lake  Athabaska,  where  10,000  or  more  geese 
were  killed  each  autumn,  only  one  of  this  species 
was  taken  in  several  years.     This  is  now  in  my 
collection. 

42.  Snow-goose,  Wavey.    Chen  hyperborea.     Abundant 
spring  migrant;  less  common  in  the  fall.     Arrives 
May  15,  and  again  in  October. 

43.  Ross  Goose.     Chen  rossi.     A  specimen  was  taken  on 
Red  River  near  Winnipeg  by  Frank  Marwood  of 
that  city,  Sept.  20,  1902.     It  is  now  in  the  collection 
of  Alexander  Calder  at  Winnipeg. 


OF  MANITOBA  197 

44.  White-fronted  Goose.     Anser  albifrons  gambeli. 
Rare,  but  regular  migrant. 

45.  Canada    Goose,    Wild    Goose.    Branta   canadensis . 
Abundant  in  the  migrations.     Arrives  in  April;  de- 
parts late  in  October. 

45.  Hutchins   Goose.     Branta  canadensis  hutchinsi.     A 
rare  migrant  or  straggler.     Taken  on  Red  River  by 
Kennicott,  observed  at  Portage  la  Prairie  by  C.  W. 
Nash,  and  noted  at  Brandon  by  C.  C.  Helliwell. 

46.  Brant.     Branta  bernicla  glaucogastra.     A  rare  mi- 
grant. 

47.  Whistling  Swan.     Olor  columbianus.     A  rare   mi- 
grant of  general  distribution. 

48.  Trumpeter   Swan.     Olor  buccinator.     A  very  rare 
migrant.     George   H.   Measham  secured  three  on 
Roseau  River.     A  single  specimen  is  in  Manitoba 
Museum. 

49.  American    Bittern.     Botaurus    lentiginosus.     Com- 
mon summer  resident;  of  general  distribution,  es- 
pecially about  the  extensive  marshes  of  the  Alle- 
ghanian    region.     Arrives    the    middle    of    April; 
departs  in  October. 

50.  Least  Bittern.     Ixobrychus  exilis.     Very  rare  sum- 
mer visitant.     On  Nov.   9,    1907,   E.   W.   Darbey 
showed  me  a  Least  Bittern,  a  young  male,  that  was 
taken  about  Oct.  20  at  Oak  Point,  Lake  Manitoba, 
by  J.  C.  McNab. 

According  to  W.  R.  Hine,  a  specimen  was  shot  in 
the  Bishop's  Marsh  near  St.  Boniface  in  1885  by 
Wm.  Gordon  (of  Winnipeg) .  C.  C.  Helliwell  has 
seen  one  or  two  about  Oak  Lake,  Manitoba.  Frank 
M.  Chapman  saw  one  at  Shoal  Lake,  June,  1901. 

51.  Great  Blue  Heron.     Ardea  herodias.     Generally  dis- 
tributed as  a  summer  resident;  nowhere  common. 


198  FAUNA 

52.  American  Egret.     Herodias  egretta.     In  the  summer 
of  1888,  David  Armit,  an  officer  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  stationed  at  Manitoba  House,  while 
out  shooting  at   Duck  Bay,   Lake    Winnipegosis, 
came  across  and  collected  a  fine  adult  specimen  of 
this  bird  in  breeding  plumage.     He  has  most  gener- 
ously sent  the  prize  to  me ;  it  is  now  No.  1 ,776  of  my 
collection.     This   is,    I   believe,    the   northernmost 
record  for  the  species. 

53.  Black-crowned  Night-heron.     Nycticorax  nycticorax 
naevius.     Summer  resident  of  general  distribution 
in  the  Alleghanian  region.     I  found  it  quite  nu- 
merous and  breeding  in  colonies  at  Shoal  Lake.    In 
other  parts  of  the  region  it  is  somewhat  rare. 

54.  Whooping    Crane.     Grus    americana.     Formerly 
common  and  breeding;  now  nearly  extinct. 

55.  Little    Brown   Crane.     Grus    canadensis.     Summer 
resident  of  general  distribution;  much  less  common 
than  formerly.     Arrives  in  mid- April;  departs  in 
September. 

56.  Virginia  Rail.  Rallus  virginianus.   Rare,  but  regu- 
lar,  summer  resident   of  the   Alleghanian   region. 
The   specimen   in   my   collection   was   taken  near 
Morden  by  D.  Nicholson.     I  saw  another  in  the 
collection  of  Geo.  E.  Atkinson  of  Portage  la  Prairie, 
and  heard  of  another  at  Brandon.     I  have  seen 
several  taken  near  Winnipeg. 

57.  Sora,    Common    Rail.     Porzana    Carolina.     Abun- 
dant summer  resident  throughout  Manitoba.     Ar- 
rives May  1;  departs  in  October. 

58.  Yellow  Rail,  Water  Sparrow.     Coturnicops  novebo- 
racensis.     On  the  13th  of  July,  1883,  a  specimen  of 
this  Rail  was  brought  to  me  alive,  by  a  farmer  who 
caught  it  in  a  slough  where  he  was  cutting  wild  hay. 


OF  MANITOBA  199 

Being  just  then  called  away,  I  placed  the  bird  in  a 
coop,  and  on  my  return  it  was  gone.  But  the  re- 
cord is,  I  believe,  safe,  as  Preble  found  the  species 
numerous  at  York  factory,  and  there  are  other 
records  to  completely  surround  the  Province. 

59.  American  Coot.     Fulica  americana.     Abundant 
summer  resident.     Arrives  in  mid- April;  departs 

late  in  October. 

60.  Northern  Phalarope.    Lobipes  lobatus.     Rare  strag- 
gler in  migration;  noted  about  Winnipeg  only. 

61.  Wilson  Phalarope.     Steganopus   tricolor.    Common 
summer  resident,  breeding  on  most  of  the  large 
ponds  and  marshes  in  the  Alleghanian  region. 

62.  American  Avocet.    Recurvirostra  americana.    While 
abundant  in  the  adjoining  Province  of  Saskatche- 
wan, the  species  is  a  rare  straggler  in  Manitoba. 

R.  H.  Hunter  writes:  "I  have  killed  the  bird 
along  the  Souris,  south-west  of  Plum  Creek."  In 
the  Museum  of  the  Geological  Survey  at  Ottawa  is 
a  specimen  of  the  Avocet,  marked  "from  Mani- 
toba." Shaw  Cottingham  killed  neariy  a  dozen  at 
a  place  9  miles  south  of  Brandon  in  1899,  and  C.  C. 
Helliwell  got  three  or  four  out  of  a  flock  at  Oak 
Lake,  ten  years  before. 

63.  American  Woodcock.     Philohela  minor.     Very  rare 
summer  resident.     At  Winnipeg  W.   R.   Hine  re- 
ports that  he  got  four  during  four  years.     At  Por- 
tage la  Prairie,  one  or  two  pairs  seen  each  year  by 
C.   W.   Nash.     At  Stuartburn,   on  Roseau  River, 
George  H.  Measham  shot  one  in  1891. 

64.  Wilson  Snipe.    Gallinago  delitcata.  Abundant  sum- 
mer resident  on  all  extensive  bogs.     Arrives  April 
20;  departs  September  30. 

65.  Dowitcher.     Macrorhamphus  scolopaceus.       Abun- 
dant migrant  in  the  western  part  of  Manitoba. 


200  FAUNA 

66.  Stilt    Sandpiper.     Micropalama    himantopus.      On 
August  29,  at  Carberry,  I  made  the  first  positive 
capture  of  this  species  in  the  Province.     It  was  in 
a  mixed  flock  of  Sandpipers  of  several  species. 

67.  Knot,    Robin  Snipe     Tringa  canutus.     Occasional 
migrant;    noted    along    Red    River    and    west    of 
Brandon. 

68.  Pectoral  Sandpiper.     Pisobia  maculata.     A  common 
migrant;  noted  along  Red  River. 

69.  White-rumped  Sandpiper.     Pisobia  juscicollis.     Mi- 
grant;   sometimes    common,    chiefly    in    western 

Manitoba. 

70.  Baird    Sandpiper.     Pisobia    bairdi.     Common    mi- 
grant, chiefly  in  Angust. 

71.  Least  Sandpiper.     Pisobia  minutilla.     A  common 
migrant  in  all  the  western  part  of  the  Province, 
especially  during  August. 

72.  Red-backed  Sandpiper,  Blackheart.     Pelidna  alpina 
sakhalina.     Reported    a    common    migrant    along 
Red  River  (Hine)  and  at  Portage  la  Prairie  in  fall 
(Nash).     I  have  not  seen  a  Manitoba  specimen. 

73.  Semipalmated  Sandpiper.     Ereunetes  pusillus.    Gen- 
erally distributed  as  a  migrant ;  especially  abundant 
in  the  country  west  of  Red  River. 

74.  Sanderling.     Calidris    lucophaea.     Common    mi- 
grant; recorded  from  Lake  Winnipeg,  Lake  Mani- 
toba, Portage  la  Prairie  and  Oak  Lake. 

75.  Marbled  Godwit.    Limosa  fedoa.     Summer  resident, 
frequenting  the  wet  prairies  near  Winnipeg  and  on 
the  plains  of  the  Souris,  etc.     Formerly  common, 
now  becoming  rare. 

76.  Hudsonian   Godwit.    Limosa   haemastica.     A   rare 
migrant,  chiefly  along  Red  River  and  westward. 

77.  Greater  Yellow-legs.     Totanusmelanoleucus.    Abun- 


or  MANITOBA  201 

dant  migrant.     Spring  migration,  late  in  April;  fall, 
early  in  August. 

78.  Yellow-legs.     Totanus  ftavipes.     Abundant  migrant 
in  mid-May  and  in  August. 

79.  Solitary  Sandpiper.     Helodromas  solitaries.     Com- 
mon migrant,  especially  in  fall;  probably  also  it 
breeds. 

80.  Western  Willet.     Caioptrophorus  semipalmatns  inor- 
natus.     Common  summer  resident  on  all  the  wet 
prairies  of  south-western  Manitoba. 

81.  Bartramian  Sandpiper,  Prairie  Plover.    Bartramia 
longicauda.     In  early  days  this  was  an  extremely 
abundant  summer  resident  on  all  the  prairies  of  the 
Province.     It  has  now  become  very  scarce.     Ar- 
rives May  7;  departs  August  30. 

82.  Spotted    Sandpiper.     Actitis    macularia.     Common 
summer  resident.     Arrives  May  1,  departing  late 
in  September. 

83.  Long-billed  Curlew.     Numenius  americanus.    Sum- 
mer resident  on  the  wet  prairies  of  the  Red  River 
and  on  the  Souris.     Formerly  common  about  Lake 
Manitoba,  now  rare. 

84.  Black-bellied  Plover.  -  Squatarola  squatarola.     Rare 
spring  migrant ;  no  autumn  records. 

85.  American   Golden   Plover.     Charadrius   dominions. . 
Common  spring  and  fall  migrant.     Affects  burnt 
prairies    and    ploughed    land.     Spring    migration, 
middle  of  May;  fall,  in  August  and  September. 

86.  Killdeer.     Oxyechus    vociferus.     Common    summer 
resident  throughout  the  Province.     Arrives  late  in 
April;  departs  last  of  August. 

87.  Semipalmated  Plover,  Ring-plover.     Aegialitis  semi- 
palmata.     Rare  migrant. 

88.  Belted    Piping    Plover.     Aegialitis  meloda.     Some- 


202  FAUNA 

what  common,  migrant  throughout  the  Province, 
and,  according  to  Macoun,  found  actually  breeding 
on  Lakes  Manitoba  and  Winnipeg. 

89.  Turnstone.     Arenaria  inter  pres  morinella.     A  rare 
migrant.     Goes  north  about  May  15;  returns  about 
August  15. 

90.  Spruce  Grouse.     Canachites  canadensis.     Common 
permanent  resident  of  all  the  Canadian  or  north- 
eastern half  of  the  Province. 

91.  Canadian  Ruffed  Grouse.    Bonasa  umbellus  togata. 
Common  permanent  resident  of  the  Canadian  por- 
tion of  Manitoba. 

9 la.  Gray  Ruffed  Grouse.  Bonasa  umbellus  umbel- 
loides.  Abundant  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  or 
south-western  half  of  the  country  whereon  there  is 
woods. 

92.  Willow  Ptarmigan.    Lagopus  lagopus.     A  common 
resident  of  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  Manitoba, 
moving  southward  in  winter  as  far  as  Shell  River, 
Lake  Manitoba  and  Shoal  Lake. 

93.  Prairie-hen.     Tympaunchns   americauns.     In    1871 
Dr.  Coues  wrote :  "  I  have  no  reason  to  believe  that 
it   occurs   at   all  in   North-western   Minnesota   or 
Northern  Dakota."     In  1882,  when  first  I  visited 
Manitoba,  the  species  was  nearly  unknown  in  the 
country,  the  only  known  specimen  having  been 
taken  near  Winnipeg  in  1881.     In  1883  W.  R.  Hine, 
informs  me,  it  began  to  be  common  at  Pembina. 
In  1884  it  was  not  only  common  at  Winnipeg,  but 
had  also  for  the  first  time  made  its  appearance  at 
Portage  la  Prairie,  on  the  Assiniboine.     In  1886  I 
first  saw  it  at  Carberry.     Since  then  it  has  spread 
with  cultivation,  and  is  now  abundant  in  all  the 
settled  parts. 


OF  MANITOBA  203 

94.  Columbian  Sharp-tamed  Grouse,  Prairie  Chicken. 

Pediocaetes  phasianellus  columbianus.  Abundant 
resident  everywhere,  especially  in  the  country  west 
of  Lake  Winnipeg,  north  to  the  narrows  of  Lake 
Winnipeg,  and  thence  eastward  as  iar  as  Long 
Lake  and  Pic  River,  on  Lake  Winnipeg  (Bell). 
This  species  lives  by  preference  on  the  prairies  in 
summer  and  in  the  wooded  districts  during  winter, 
so  that  it  is  in  a  sense  migratory. 

95.  Passenger  Pigeon.    Ecto  pistes  migrator  ins.     In  1885 
I  wrote  as  follows:   ''Common  summer  resident, 
probably  everywhere,  as  it  was  noted  on  Riding 
Mountain,  along  the  Assiniboine,  on  Big  Plain,  on 
Turtle  Mountain  (Cones}  and  northward,  as  well 
as  all  over  the  Red  River  Valley,  throughout  the 
Winriipegosis  region.     Often  abundant  during  the 
migrations.     I  am  not  aware  of  the  existence  of  any 
extensive  'rookeries.'     Arrives  early  in  May;  de- 
parts in  October." 

In  1908  my  notes  on  the  species  are :  "  The  follow- 
ing are  all  the  specimens  I  know  of  in  Manitoba: — 
Adult  male  taken  at  Winnipeg  in  1892,  now  in  col- 
lection of  Father  Blain,  St.  Boniface  College;  adult 
male  taken  at  Winnipeg  in  1894  by  E.  Wilson,  now 
in  possession  of  J.  K.  Hardy  of  St.  Boniface;  adult 
male  taken  at  Winnipegosis  on  13  April,  1898,  by 
J.  J.  G.Rosser." 

The  last  year  in  which  the  Pigeons  came  to  Mani- 
toba in  force  was  1878.  Next  year  they  were  com- 
paratively scarce,  and  each  year  they  have  become 
more  so. '  In  the  early  eighties  a  few  were  seen  each 
season.  The  above  three  specimens  were  the  last 
reliable  recorded.  None  have  been  seen  since.  It 
is  interesting  to  note  that  1878  was  also  the  last  year 
of  the  vast  Buffalo  herds  on  the  Saskatchewan.  In 
my  collection  are  three  specimens  of  Passenger 


204  FAUNA 

Pigeon:  young  male  taken  at  Carberry,  Man.,  by 
Miller  Christy,  30  Aug.,  1883;  adult  male  and  female 
taken  at  Fort  Holmes,  Ind.  T.,  U.S.,  by  C.  Dewar, 
Jan.  1889. 

96.  Mourning  Dove.     Zenaidura  macroura  carolinensis . 
Formerly  far  from  common,  now  abundant  in  all 
parts   of   the    Alleghanian   region    where    there    is 
timber,   frequenting  barnyards  that  are  near  the 
woods. 

97.  Turkey    Vulture.     Cathartes    aura    septentrionalis . 
Common   summer  resident   of   the   prairie   region, 
probably  breeding  here. 

98.  Swallow-tailed     Kite.     Elanoides     forficatus.     Geo. 
Grieve  tells  me  that  two  have  been  taken  at  Winni- 
peg, one  in  1889  and  one  in  1892,  neither  seen  by 
me.  I  observed  one  in  Minnesota,  near  Pembina,  in 
1883.     Coues  reports  it  as  occasional  at  Pembina, 
and  R.  H.  Hunter  writes  me  that  he  has  seen  it  at 
Selkirk,  Pembina  Mountain,  and  Fort  Qu'Appelle. 

99.  Harrier.     Circus    hudsonius.     Abundant    summer 
resident.     The  adults,  in  blue  plumage,  are  common 
in    spring    and    fall.     Arrives    April    15;    departs 
October  15. 

100.  Sharp-shinned    Hawk.     Accipiter   velox.     Common 
summer  resident  in  all  wooded  regions.     Arrives 
April   15;  departs  October  15. 

101.  Cooper  Hawk  or  Chicken  Hawk.     Accipiter  cooperi. 
May  be  entered  as  a  rare  summer  resident.       Re- 
ported by  Hine  and  Hunter.     I  saw  one  at  Edmon- 
ton, but  do  not  know  of  a  specimen  taken  in  the 
Province. 

102.  American  Goshawk.     Astur  atricapillus .     Common 
fall    and    winter    visitant,    usually    appearing    in 
August.     Not  rioted  during  the  breeding  season. 


IN  MANITOBA  205 

103.  Red-tailed  Hawk.     Buteo  borealis.     Common  sum- 
mer resident  of  the  wooded  regions.     Apparently 
complementary  of  the  Swainson  Hawk,  which  is 

.     found  in  more  open  country  and  on  the  prairie. 
Arrives  April  15;  departs  October  15. 

103a.  Krider  Hawk.  Buteo  borealis  krideri.  Three 
specimens  of  this  beautiful  Hawk  have  been  taken 
at  Winnipeg — one  shot  at  Rosenfeld  by  Charles 
Stewart,  Sept.  20,  1905;  two  now  in  the  collection 
of  A.  Calder. 

104.  Red-shouldered    Hawk.    Buteo    lineatus.     R.     H. 
Hunter  writes  me  that  he  found  this  species  in 
Eastern  Manitoba. 

105.  Swainson  Hawk.  Common  Henhawk     Buteo  sivain- 
soni.     Very    abundant    summer    resident    of    the 
prairie  region;  breeds  perhaps  twice  each  season. 
Have  seen  several  black  specimens.     Arrives  April 
15;  departs  October  15. 

106.  Broad- winged  Hawk.     Buteo  platypterus.     Regular 
summer  visitant  wherever  there  is  woods.     In  my 
collection  are  two  specimens,   one  collected  near 
Winnipeg  May  3,  1905,  by  Ashley  Hine.     It  is  re- 
ported from  various  parts  of  the  Province  where 
well  timbered,  and  is  generally  distributed,  though 
not  abundant.     A.  Calder  has  a  beautiful  melanistic 
specimen,  killed  at  Winnipeg,  April,  1907. 

107.  American  Rough-legged  Hawk.     Archibuteo  lagopus 
sancti-johannis .     Migrant;  only  seen  in  spring  and 
fall,  but  not  numerous. 

108.  Red    Roughleg,    Gopher-hawk.     Archibuteo    ferru- 
gineus.   One  in  the  collection  of  E.  W.  Darbey  was 
shot,  in  1895,  at  Niverville,  fifteen  miles  south-west 
of  Winnipeg,  by  Geo.   Grieve.     There  is  another 
specimen  in  the  Manitoba  Museum. 


206  FAUNA 

109.  Golden  Eagle.     Aquila  chrysaetos.     Rare,  but  ap- 
parently resident. 

110.  Bald    Eagle.      Haliaetus    leucocephalus.      Summer 
visitant,  of  general  distribution  wherever  there  are 
fish. 

111.  Gray  Gyrfalcon.     Falco  rusticolus.     A  rare  winter 
visitant.     A  specimen  was  killed  near  Winnipeg  in 
the  fall  of  1904,  and  mounted  by  E.  W.  Darbey  for 
the  Manitoba  Museum.     Two  fine  specimens  taken 
by  W.  R.  Hine  were  at  one  time  in  the  same  col- 
lection. 

112.  Duck  Hawk.     Falco  per egrinus  anatnm.     Much  like 
the    Goshawk    in    movements    and    distribution. 
Probably  breeds  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  large 
lakes.     Quite   common   on   the    Big   Plain    about 
August. 

113.  Pigeon     Hawk.     .Falco      columbarius.      Common 
spring  and  fall  migrant,  breeding  in  the  woods  of 
northern  Manitoba. 

113a.  Richardson  Merlin.  Falco  columbarius  richard- 
soni.  A  Plains  race,  said  to  be  a  regular  summer 
resident  along  Souris  River.  A  fine  specimen  was 
killed  in  Winnipeg  during  the  summer  of  1900  and 
brought  in  the  flesh  to  A.  Calder,  in  whose  collection 
it  may  now  be  seen. 

114.  American  Sparrow-hawk.     Falco  sparverius.    Abun- 
dant   summer    resident;    of    general    distribution 
wherever  there  is  woods. 

115.  American  Osprey.     Pandion  haliaetus  carolinensis . 
A  summer  resident  about  all  the  fish-stocked  rivers 
and  lakes.     Reported  from  all  parts  of  the  Province, 
but  rare. 

110.  American  Long-eared  Owl.   Asio.wilsonianus.  Sum- 


OF  MANITOBA  207 

mer  resident  in  all  wooded  sections.     Arrives  April 
15;  departs  October  20. 

117.  Short-eared  Owl,  Marsh-owl.     Asia  flammeus.  Com- 
mon summer  resident  in  all  marshy  and  prairie 
sections.     Arrives  April  1;  departs  October  30. 

118.  Barred  Owl.    Strix  varia.     Summer  resident  of  the 
wooded  sections.     The  records  show  it  to  be  more 
widely  differed  than  was  once  believed.     In  1886  I 
saw  a  specimen  taken  at  Kenora.     In  my  collection 
is  one  taken  at  Winnipeg,  March  30,  1906,  by  Harry 
Jones.     E.  W.  Darbey  writes  me  that  he  had  four, 
taken  at  Winnipeg  in  1906.  and  one  early  in  April, 
1908.     At  Portage  la  Prairie  I  was  shown  a  female 
taken  by  G.  E.  Atkinson.  May  19,   1899.      J.  S. 
Charleson  writes  me  that  on  May  9,   1901,  while 
canoeing  up  the  Assiniboine  near  Winnipeg,  he  saw 
a  Barred  Owl  in  a  tree.     Also  he  secured  a  specimen 
from  Riding  Mountain  in  January,   1905;  it  was 
killed  by  T.  S.  Kittson,  and  had  in  its  stomach  a 
flying   squirrel.     Arrives    about    April    1;    departs 
about  November  1. 

119.  Great  Gray  Owl.    Scotiaptex  nebulosa.     One  speci- 
men, taken  on  the  Big  Plain,  September  29,  1884. 
Rather  common  along  the  Red  River,  and  resident 
in  the  woods  about  Lake  Winnipeg. 

120.  Richardson   Owl.    Glaiix  funerea  richardsoni.      A 
common  winter  visitant  in  the  Alleghanian  region, 
but  probably  resident  and  breeding  in  the  Canadian 
part  of  the  Province. 

121.  Saw- whet  Owl.    Glaux  acadica.     Rare,  but  appar- 
ently a  permanent  resident. 

122.  Western  Horned  Owl.    Bubo  virgiuianus  pallescens. 
Common  resident  wherever  there  is  woods. 

122a.  White  Horned  Owl.    Bubo  virginiamts  subarcticus. 


208  ,  FAUNA 

Rare  in  Manitoba;  in  A.  Calder's  collection  are  two 
superb  specimens  of  this  northern  form.  They 
were  taken  recently  at  Winnipeg.  It  is  recorded 
also  from  MacDonald,  Duck  Mountain,  and  Touch- 
wood Hills. 

123.  Snowy  Owl,  White  Owl.     Nyctca  nyctea.      Common 
winter    visitant,     sometimes    appearing    in    large 
numbers.     Arrives  October  1 ;  departs  April  15. 

124.  American  Hawk-owl.     Surma  ulula  caparoch.    Very 
abundant  some  years.     Arrives  late  in  September, 
and  remains  until  April.     May  yet  be  found  breed- 
ing in  the  extreme  north  of  the  Province. 

125.  Burrowing    Owl.     Speotyto    cunicularia    hypogaea. 
There  is  one  of  the  species  that  have  appeared  in 
Manitoba  recently.     In  the  early  eighties  it   was 
quite  unknown. 

In  August,  1899,  at  the  taxidermist  shop  of  G.  E. 
Atkinson,  Portage  la  Prairie,  I  saw  two  Burrowing 
Owls  that  were  taken  by  a  farmer  about  four  miles 
north-west  of  the  town,  on  June  2,  1897.  Two 
others  were  brought  to  the  shop  in  May,  1899.  The 
specimen  in  my  collection  (No.  2,594)  is  one  of  two 
taken  at  Morden  by  D.  Nicholson,  the  taxidermist. 
He  reports  it  rare,  but  regular  and  increasing.  Two 
others  were  taken  in  1902.  E.  W.  Darbey  tells  me 
that  it  is  becoming  quite  common  along  the  Pipe- 
stone  and  on  the  slope  of  Riding  Mountain. 

In  1904  J.  P.  Turner  found  a  nest  eight  miles 
north-west  of  Winnipeg.  The  species  utilizes  the 
burrows  of  the  Richardson  ground-squirrel  for  a 
nesting  place. 

126.  Black-billed    Cuckoo.     Coccyzus    erythrophihalmus . 
A  common  summer  resident  in  all  the  Alleghanian 
region;  not  yet  recorded  beyond  that  limit.     Ar- 
rives late  in  May,  departing  at  the  end  of  August. 


OF  MANITOBA  209 

127.  Belted  Kingfisher.     Ceryle  alcyon.     Common  sum- 
mer resident  everywhere  along  streams  and  fish 
frequented   lakes.     Arrives    April    20;    departs   in 
October. 

128.  Northern    Hairy    Woodpecker.     Dryobates    villosus 
leucomelas.     Common    resident    of    woods    every- 
where. 

129.  Downy  Woodpecker.     Dryobates  pubescens  medianus . 
Common   resident    throughout    the    Province,    ex- 
cepting possibly  the  north-eastern  corner. 

130.  Arctic  Three-toed  Woodpecker.     Picoides  arcticus. 
Common   resident   in   the   forested   region.      Most 
plentiful    in    winter,    therefore    probably    in    some 
degree  migratory. 

131.  American  Three-toed  Woodpecker.     Picoides  ameri- 
canus.     Rare  permanent  resident  of  the  Canadian 
region.     Unfortunately  no  specimens  are  available. 
Both  W.  R.  Hine  and  R.  H.  Hunter  claim  to  have 
seen  it  in  the  woods  eastof  Winnipeg,  and  at  Kenora, 
in  1886,  I  saw  a  supposed  specimen,  beside  which 
its  known  range  includes  the  forested  portion  of  the 
Province. 

132.  Yellow-bellied    Sapsucker.     Sphyrapicus    varius. 
Common  summer  resident  of  all  the  Alleghanian 
region;  not  yet  recorded  from  the  Canadian.     Ar- 
rives about  May  1. 

133.  Pileated  Woodpecker,  Cock-of-the- Woods.  Phloeoto- 
mus   pileatus   abieticola.     Rare   resident   in   heavy 
timber  and  spruce  woods  throughout  the  Province. 

134.  Red-headed  Woodpecker.     Melanerpes  erythroce- 
phalus.     A  rare  summer  resident  of  south-western 
Manitoba,    apparently   confined    to   regions   where 
oaks  are  found. 

135.  Flicker,  Highholder.   Colaptes  auratus  luteus.    Very 


210  FAUNA 

abundant  summer  resident  throughout  the  Pro- 
vince wherever  there  are  trees.  Arrives  April  15; 
departs  September  30. 

136.  Red-shafted  Flicker.    Cola-pies  cafer  collaris.     A  full 
plumaged  female  in  my  collection  (No.  2,546)  was 
shot  near  Winnipeg,  Sept.  30,  1904,  by  T.  Dolphin. 
At  Portage  la  Prairie,  in  August,  1899,  I  saw  in  G. 
E.  Atkinson's  taxidermist  shop  a  fine  adult  hybrid 
Flicker,  shot  in  the  vicinity,  April  16,  1897. 

137.  Whip-poor-will.     Antrostomus    vociferus.     Abun- 
dant summer  resident  in  woods  and  partly  wooded 
regions  throughout  the  Province. 

138.  Night-hawk.     Chordeiles  virginiauns.     The   Night- 
hawk  is  common  throughout  Manitoba,  and  thus 
the  typical  form  seems  to  be  the  one  in  all  but  the 
true  prairie  region. 

138a.  Western  Night-hawk.  Chordeiles  virginianus  henr- 
yi.  Very  abundant  summer  resident  of  the  prairies 
in  south-western  Manitoba.  Arrives  May  24;  de- 
parts August  30. 

139.  Chimney  Swift.     Chaetura  pelagica.     Summer  resi- 
dent of  the  Alleghanian  region,  nowhere  very  com- 
mon, and  most  numerous  about  the  towns.    Arrives 
about  May  15;  departs  early  in  September. 

140.  Ruby-throated    Hummingbird.     Trochilus   colubris. 
This  is  a  summer  resident  in  the  Alleghanian  region, 
wherever  it  finds  suitable  surroundings — that  is,  a 
warm  sheltered  garden  with  red  flowers.     Arriving 
about  May  23. 

141.  Scissor-tailed  Flycatcher.     Muscivoraforficata.     Ac- 
cidental straggler.     One  found  by  C.  W.  Nash,  at 
Portage  la  Prairie,  October  31,  1884.     (See  Auk, 
April,  1885,  p.  218.) 

142.  Kingbird.     Tyrannus    tyrannus.     Very    abundant 


OF  MANITOBA  211 

• 

summer  resident  throughout  the  Province  wherever 
there  are  trees  or  even  small  bushes.  Arrives  May 
20;  departs  August  30. 

143.  Arkansas    Kingbird.      Tyrannus    verticalis.      Two 
specimens  of  this,  an  adult  and  one  in  first  plumage, 
were  taken  by  D.  Losh  Thorpe  at  the  Souris  coal 
fields,  August  20,  1891.     This  is  not  many  miles  to 
the  west  of  the  Province,  and  justifies  the  insertion 

[of  the  species  as  probably  Manitoban. 

144.  Crested  Flycatcher.     Myiarchus  crinitus.     Summer 
resident  about  Winnipeg;  noted  several  times  at 
Carberry.     Taken  by  Professor  Macoun  at  Lake 
Manitoba,  June  17,  1881.     Quite  common  along  the 
Assiniboine.     On  Aug.  20,  1904,  I  got  one  at  Lake 
Winnipegosis.     This   is   the   northernmost   that    I 
know  of. 

145.  Phoebe.     Sayornis  phoebe.     Rare  summer  resident, 
but  apparently  found  in  all  parts  of  the  Province; 
recorded  even  from  Norway  House. 

140.  Olive-sided  Flycatcher.  Nuttallornis  borealis.  A  com- 
mon summer  resident  in  all  the  wooded  parts  of  the 
Province. 

147.  Wood  Pewee.     Myiochanes  virens.     Summer  resi- 
dent of  the  heavy  woods  in  the  Alleghanian  region. 

148.  Western    Wood    Pewee.     Myiochanes    richardsoni. 
Common  summer  resident  of  the  willow  thicket  and 
open  groves  throughout  the  Alleghanian  region. 

149.  Yellow-bellied  Flycatcher.    Empidonax  flaviventris. 
Summer  resident,  frequenting  woodlands.     Noted 
at  Winnipeg,  Portage  la  Prairie,  Duck  Mountain, 
and   Oak   Lake.     Probably  throughout   the   Alle- 
ghanian region. 

150.  Alder  Flycatcher.    Empidonax  trailli  alnoruwt.    Re- 
corded from  Pembina,  Carberry,   Lake   Manitoba, 


212  FAUNA 

Duck  Mountain,  Riding  Mountain,  and  Norway 
House,  so  doubtless  it  is  generally  distributed 
throughout  the  Province  wherever  there  is  cover. 
An  abundant  summer  resident. 

151.  Least    Flycatcher.     Empidonax     minimus.     Very 
abundant  summer  in  all  wooded  localities.     Arrives 
May  20;  departs  late  in  September. 

152.  Prairie  Horned  Lark.     Otocoris  alpestris  praticola. 
Abundant,    breeding    in    all    the    prairie    regions. 
Resident,    excepting    during    December,    January, 
and  February.     Breeds  twice  each  season. 

152a.  Shore    Lark.     Otocoris    alpestris.     Fall    migrant. 
Taken  at  Carberry  and  Kenora. 

153.  American    Magpie.      Pica     hudsonia.       Irregular, 
rare  resident.     Found  west  of  Fort  Ellice,  and  oc- 
casionally along  the  Upper  Assiniboine.     A  single 
specimen  reported  from  Brandon. 

154.  Blue  Jay.     Cyanocitta  cristata.     Common  summer 
resident   of  woodlands   throughout   the   Province. 
Arrives  early  in  April;  departs  late  in  November. 
May  be  resident  in  southern  localities. 

155.  Canada  Jay,  Whiskey-jack.     Wis-ka-tjan,   Periso- 
reus   canadensis.     Abundant   resident    throughout 
the  wooded  region.     The  common  name  of  this  bird 
is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  Wis-ka-tjan.     This 
last  name  should  not  be  lost  sight  of. 

156.  American  Raven.     Corvus  cor  ax  principalis.     Win- 
ter visitant  in  all  the  Alleghanian  region.     Said  to 
be  resident,  and  of  course  breeding,  in  the  Canadian 
regions  to  the  north ;  not  common  anywhere. 

157.  American  Crow.     Corvus  brachyrhynchos.     Summer 
resident  throughout  the  Province.     Abundant  in 
the  Alleghanian  region;  scarce  in  the  Canadian. 


OF  MANITOBA  213 

158.  Bobolink.     Dolichonyx  oryzivorus.     Abundant  sum- 
mer resident  in  all  the  prairie  region.     Arrives  May 
20,  departs  September  7. 

159.  Cowbird.     Molothrus   ater.     Very   abundant    sum- 
mer resident  throughout  the  prairie  region.    Arrives 
May  15;  departs  late  in  the  fall,  but  disappears  for 
a  time  during  the  moult  at  the  end  of  August. 
They  are  then  to  be  found,  I  believe,  in  the  sloughs 
and  marshes  with  the  Crackles. 

160.  Yellow-headed  Blackbird.     Xanthocephalus  xantho- 
cephalus.     A  summer  resident     of     the     marshes 
throughout  the  Alleghanian  region ;  found  also,  but 
much   less  numerously,   in   the   Canadian   region; 
wherever  there  are  extensive  marshes.    Arrives  May 

1,  departs  late  in  October. 

161.  Northern  Redwing.     Agelaius  phoeniceus  arctolegus. 
Abundant  summer  resident  of  the  whole  Province. 
Arrives  April  20;  departs  late  in  October. 

162.  Western  Meadow  Lark.     Sturnella  neglecta.     Abun- 
dant summer  resident  of  all  the  prairie  regions. 
Arrives  April  15;  departs  October  15. 

163.  Orchard  Oriole.     Icterus  spurius.     One   specimen, 
taken  at  Pembina,  June  6,  1873,  by  Dr.  Coues. 

164.  Baltimore  Oriole.     Icterus  galbula.     Abundant  sum- 
mer resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region.     Arrives 
May  30;  departs  August  30. 

165.  Rusty  Blackbird.     Euphagus  carolinus.     Extremely 
abundant  migrant  during  April  and  late  September. 
Not  found  in  the  Alleghanian  region  during  summer, 
but  probably  breeding  in  the  north-west  parts  of  the 
Province  within  the  Canadian. 

166.  Brewer  Blackbird,  Satin  Bird.    Euphagus  cyanoce- 
phalus.     Abundant    summer   resident,    apparently 


214  FAUNA 

confined  to  the  Alleghanian  region.     Arrives  April 
15;  departs  November  1. 

167.  Bronzed    Grackle.     Quiscalus    quiscula    aeneus. 
Abundant  summer  resident  wherever  there  is  wood- 
land.    Arrives  April  20,  departs  October  15. 

168.  Evening  Grosbeak.     Hesperiphonavespertina.   Com- 
mon winter  visitant  in  the  vicinities  of  Winnipeg, 
Portage  la  Prairie,  and  Qu'Appelle,  Big  Island  in 
Lake  Winnipeg,  and  Selkirk.      (R.  H.  Hunter.} 

169.  Pine  Grosbeak.     P-inicola  enudeator  leucura.     Com- 
mon winter  visitant  in  all   the  wooded  sections, 
probably  breeding  in  the  northmost  parts  of  the 
Province. 

170.  Purple   Finch.     Carpodacus   purpureus.      Common 
summer  resident  of  all  wooded  regions.     Arrives 
early  in  May;  departs  middle  of  September. 

171.  English  Sparrow.     Passer  domesticus.     This  species 
is  now  found  in  all  the  settled  portions  of  Manitoba, 
and  at  ever)''  farmhouse  and  in  all  the  towns  of  the 
North-west  as  far  as  AthabaSka  Landing,  Alberta, 
about  N.  Latitude  55.   W.  Longitude  113.     It  first 
appeared  at  Carberry  in  1892,  but  was  not  found  in 
numbers  until  1894.    According    to    Criddle,    it  is 
developing  a  habit  of  migration. 

172.  American  Crossbill.     Loxia  curvirostra  minor.    Com- 
mon as  a  winter  visitant  at  Winnipeg,    Portage  la 
Prairie  and  Big  Plain,  possibly  breeding,  as  it  is 
known  to  do  so  in  Minnesota  (Trippe) . 

173.  White- winged    Crossbill.     Loxia   leucoptera.     Com- 
mon winter  visitant  about  Winnipeg  and  Big  Plain; 
may  breed  in  the  Canadian  region. 

174.  Gray-crowned   Finch,   Pink  Snowbird.    Leucosticte 
tephrocotis.     I  have  in  my  collection  an  adult  of 
species  taken  near  Birtle,  Manitoba,  in  January, 


OF  MANITOBA  215 

1891,  by  George  Copeland.  Also  in  the  Manitoba 
Museum  are  two  specimens  taken  in  the  Province 
by  W.  R.  Hine.  These  give  a  considerable  east- 
ward extension  to  the  range  of  the  species. 

175.  Hoary    Redpoll.     Acanthis    hornemanni   ev-ilipes. 
Noted  only  as  a  rare  migrant;  in  fall  and  winter 
accompanies  A.  linaria. 

176.  Redpoll.     Acanthis    linaria.     Abundant    fall    and 
winter    visitant,    arriving   from   the   north   about 
October  20,  and  departing  about  May  1. 

177.  American  Goldfinch.     Astra^alinustristis.    Common 
summer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region.    Arrives 
last  week  of  May;  departs  middle  of  September. 

178.  Pine    Siskin.     Spinus    pinus.     An    irregular    and 
abundant  spring  and  fall  visitant ;  may  breed  in  the 
Canadian  region. 

179.  Snowflake,    Snow-bunting.     Plectrophenax    nivalis. 
Very  abundant  spring,  fall,   and  winter  resident, 
arriving  about  the  middle  of  October  and  staying 
until  the  end  of  April. 

180.  Lapland    Longspur.     Calcarius    lapponicus.     Very 
abundant  spring  and  fall  migrant.     Arrives  May 
15,  and  again  September  20. 

181.  Painted    Longspur.     Calcarius    pictus.     Abundant 
spring  and  much  less  plentiful  fall  migrant.     Ar- 
rives on   May   10,  stays  two  weeks,  and   again   on 
September  15  for  a  few  days. 

182.  Black-breasted  Longspur.     Calcarius  ornatus.    Com- 
mon summer  resident  of  the  dry  prairies.     Local  in 
distribution,    many    pairs    sometimes    affecting    a 
limited  area  of  dry  prairie,  while  again  for  miles  no 
more  of  the  species  are  to  be  seen.     Arrives  May  16 ; 
departs  August  30. 

183.  McCown   Longspur.     Rhynchophanes   mecowni.     A 


210  FAUNA 

specimen  of  this  bird,  taken  by  D.  Losh  Thorpe, 
near  Dalesbro,  just  west  of  our  borders,  justifies  its 
inclusion  as  a  probable  straggler. 

184.  Western  Vesper-sparrow.     Pooecetes  gramineus  con- 
finis.     Very    abundant    summer    resident    of    the 
prairie  region.     Arrives   May    1 ;   departs   Septem- 
ber 30. 

185.  Savanna   Sparrow.     Passerculus   sand\vichensis   sa- 
vanna.    Doubtless  found  as  a  summer  resident  in 
open    places    throughout    our    Canadian    area,    as 
Preble  found  it  general  in  Keewatin  and  at  Nor- 
way House. 

185a.  Western  Savanna-sparrow.  Passerculus  sand- 
wichensis  alaudinus.  Abundant  summer  resident 
of  the  prairie  region.  Arrives  May  1 ;  departs  Sep- 
tember 30. 

186.  Baird    Sparrow.     Coturniculus    bairdi.     Abundant 
summer    resident    throughout    the    prairie    region 
wherever  there  are  alkaline  flats.     Taken  at  Grand 
Rapids   (Nutting). 

187.  Leconte   Sparrow.     Ammodramus   lecontei.     Abun- 
dant   summer   resident    of  willow     bottom-lands 
throughout    the   prairie   region.     Arrives    May    1  ; 
departs  September  30. 

189.  Nelson  Sparrow.  Ammodramus  nelsoni.  In  1892 
I  found  this  sparrow  abundant  at  Carberry  and 
secured  specimens,  both  breeding  and  migrant.  In 
1901  I  found  it  common  at  Shoal  Lake.  In  my 
collection  are  three  specimens  taken  at  Winni- 
peg. There  can  be  little  doubt  that  it  is  found 
throughout  south-western  Manitoba,  and  breeds 
wherever  found. 

189.  Lark  Sparrow.  Chondestes  grammacus.  Rare  sum- 
mer resident.  Noted  only  in  the  vicinity  of  Winni- 
peg and  at  Portage  la  Prairie. 


OF  MANITOBA  217 

190.  Black-faced  or  Harris  Sparrow.     Zonotrichia  que- 
rula.     Abundant  spring  and  fall  migrant.     Arrives 
May  15  and  again  September  20,  remaining  a  week 
or  ten  days  each  time.  Breeds  in  Hudsonian  fauna. 
Nest  found  in  far  north.    See  Auk,  Jan.  1998,  p.  72. 

191.  White-crowned    Sparrow.     Zonotrichia    leucophrys. 
Migrant,   not   common.     Passes  through  in  early 
May  and  late  September.     Probably  breeds  in  the 
extreme  north-eastern  part  of  the  Province. 

191a.  Gambel  Sparrow.  Zonotrichia  leucophrys  gambeli. 
A  migrant  only,  abundant  on  the  Souris  in  fall 
migration  (Coues}.  I  have  seen  specimens  taken 
at  Carberry  and  at  Portage  la  Prairie. 

192.  White-throated    Sparrow.     Zonotrichia    albicollis. 
Common  summer  resident  of  all  the  wooded  country 
Arrives  early  in  May;  departs  late  in  October. 

193.  Tree-sparrow.     Spizella  monticola.     Abundant  mi- 
grant in  all  parts  of  the  Province  from  mid-April 
to  mid-May,  and  again  through  October. 

194.  Chipping    Sparrow.     Spizella    passerina.     Summer 
resident  about  small  towns  and  along  wooded  edges, 
apparently  throughout  the  Province,  as  it  is  re- 
corded from  Pembina,  Winnipeg,  Norway  House, 
Oxford  House,  Grand  Rapids,  Prince  Albert,  and 
Ou'Appelle,  as  well  as  Carberry   and    Portage   la 
Prairie.     Not    common;    mid- April    to    late    Sep- 
tember. 

195.  Clay-colored     Sparrow.      Spizella     pallida.     Very 
abundant  summer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  re- 
gion.    Arrives  May  15;  departs  October  1. 

196.  Slate-colored  Junco.    Junco  hyemalis.     Abundant 
migrant  throughout  the  Province,   and  doubtless 
breeding  in  all  the  Canadian  region,  though  there 
are  few  records  of  it.     Arrives  the  first  week  of 
April,  and  departs  in  October. 


218  FAUNA 

197.  Montana  Junco.  Junco  hyemalis  montanus.  Among 
the  migrant  flocks  of  the  preceding  I  have  several 
times    seen    this  race  near  Carberry  ;  one  or  two 
were  collected. 

198.  Song  Sparrow.     Melospiza  melodia.     Summer  resi- 
dent   throughout    the    Province.     Not    common. 
Arrives  late  in  April;  departs  early  in  October. 

199.  Lincoln  Sparrow.     Melospiza  lincolni.     Spring  and 
fall  migrant.     Noted  during  first  week  of  May  and 
last  week  of  September.     Probably  breeding  in  the 
extreme  north-eastern  part  of  the  Province. 

200.  Swamp  Sparrow.     Melospiza  georgiana.     Common 
summer    resident    throughout    the    Province,    but 
most  abundant  in  the  Alleghanian  region. 

201.  Fox  Sparrow.     Passer  ella  iliaca.     Common  migrant 
in  the  prairie  region,  arriving  in  mid-April.    Breed- 
ing abundantly  on  Duck  Mountain  and  apparently 
in  all  the  Canadian  region  of  the  Province. 

202.  Towhee.     Pipilo  erythropthalmus.     Common  sum- 
mer resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region  north  at 
least  to  Carberry;  not  yet  recorded  beyond. 

203.  Arctic  Towhee.    Pipilo  maculatus  arcticus.     This 
Western  species  appears  in  this  list  on  the  strength 
of  a  specimen  -taken  on  the  Souris  at  the  boundary, 
September  16,  1873.  by  Dr.  Elliot  Coues. 

204.  Rose-breasted    Grosbeak.     Zamelodia    ludoviciana. 
Common  summer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region, 
possibly  farther,  as  there  is  one  record  for  the  north 
end  of  Lake  Winnipeg. 

205.  Indigo  Bunting.     Passerina  cyanea.     A  male  adult 
Indigo  Bunting  (No.  2,531  Seton  Coll.)  was  killed 
on  June  3,  1893,  by  W.  R.  Hine,  near  St.  Boniface, 
between  the  Seine  and  Assiniboine  Rivers,  on  the 


OP  MANITOBA  219 

land  between  the  Bishops's  Marsh  and  the  River 
Seine.  Another  adult  male  was  taken  at  Estevan, 
South  Saskatchewan,  by  D.  L.  Thorpe,  29  May, 
1892.  Estevan  is  eighty  miles  west  of  Manitoba. 
In  the  collection  of  Father  Blain,  St.  Boniface 
College,  is  an  extraordinary  specimen  killed  at 
Winnipeg.  After  careful  examination  E.  A.  Preble 
and  I  agree  that  it  is  probably  a  hybrid  Indigo 
Bunting  X  Common  Canary,  maybe  escaped  from 
captivity.  With  the  general  form  and  color  of  an 
Indigo  Bunting  female,  it  has  some  patches  of 
yellow,  and  a  white  tail  and  wings. 

206.  Dickcissel  or  Black-throated  Bunting.    Spiza  ameri- 
cana.     August   10,    1899,   I  was  shown  an  adult 
specimen  of  this  bird  by  G.  E.  Atkinson,  who  shot 
it  at  Portage  la  Prairie,  June  1  ,  1897.     This  was 

'recorded  in  "Man.  Free  Press,"  March  5,  1904. 

207.  Scarlet   Tanager.     Piranga   erythromelas.     I    have 
seen  two  specimens  that  were  taken  at  Winnipeg  in 
1892,  one  in  the  collection  of  George  Grieve,  the 
other  in  the  collection  of  W.  R.  Hine.     He  also 
took  another,  and  saw  a  third  in  1888.     It  was 
about  the  end  of  May,  during  a  sudden  cold  spell. 
The  third  he  saw  on  the  bank  of  Red  River  in  the 
city  limits;  he  was  within  two  yards  of  it  for  some 
time,  but  did  not  collect  it. 

R.  H.  Hunter  writes  me  that  in  Jane,  1880,  while 
camping  east  of  Winnipeg,  he  observed  a  pair, 
evidently  nesting,  and  adds  that  his  companion, 
Clementi-Smith,  has  "seen  several  pairs  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Winnipeg."  "Lake  Winnipeg" 
(Ridgway).  "Rare  at  Qu'Appelle"  (Guernsey). 

208.  Purple  Martin.     Progne  subis.     Common  summer 
resident  of  all  the  Alleghanian  region  wherever  there 
is  large  timber  to  furnish  nesting  sites ;  also  in  towns. 


220  FAUNA 

209.  Cliff  Swallow.     Petrochelidon  lunifrons.     Abundant 
summer  resident  in  all  parts  of  the  Province  where 
cliffs  or  tall  buildings  in  quiet  places  furnish  nesting 

sites.     Arrives  May  15;  departs  August  30. 

210.  Barn  Swallow.     Hirundo  erythrogastra.     A  summer 
resident  of  erratic  distribution.     Seldom  seen  about 
Winnipeg,  not  recorded  from  Portage  la  Prairie, 
and  yet  in  1904  J.  S.  Charleson  the  taxidermist  told 
me  it  was  common  at  MacDonald  and  at  Brandon. 
There  is  quite  a  colony  at  the  former  place  under 
the  long  bridge.     At  Carberry  I  saw  one  or  two 
each  year;  they  arrived  in  the  first  half  of  May. 
Thus  there  are  many  records  to  show  that,  though 
rare,  it  is  of  general  distribution,  and  further,  it  is 
increasing  with  the  advance  of  settlement.     Near 
Wawanesa,  on  September  13,  1904,  I  saw  a  long 
straggling  flock  of  nearly  a  hundred  of  the  species 
flyng  south-west ;  many  were  within  three  or  four 
feet  of  me  as  I  drove. 

211.  Tree    Swallow.      Tridoprocne    bicolor.      Abundant 
summer  resident  in  all  parts  of  the  Province  where 
there  are  large  trees. 

212.  Bank    Swallow,    Sand    Martin.     Riparia    riparia. 
Common  summer  resident  wherever  it  can  find  suit- 
able banks  for  nesting.     Arrives  mid-May;  departs 
late  in  August. 

213.  Saw- winged    Swallow.     Stelgidopteryx    serripennis. 
In  the  Manitoba  Museum  is  a  specimen  of  this 
Swallow,  taken  at  Winnipeg  by  W.   R~  Hine. 

214.  Bohemian     Wax- wing.       Bomby  cilia     garrula.     A 
common  winter  visitant  in  most  parts  of  Manitoba ; 
often  seen  in  November  and  April.     Not  known  to 
nest  here. 

215.  Cedar  Wax- wing,  Cherry  Bird.    Bomby  cilia  cedro- 


OF  MANITOBA  221 

rum.     Abundant  summer  resident  throughout  the 
Province.     Arrives  late  in  May. 

216.  Northern  Shrike.     Lanius  borealis.   Common  spring 
and  fall     visitant,     passing     through    toward  the 
north  in  the  first  half  of  April,  returning  during 
October. 

217.  White-rumped  Shrike.     Lanius  ludovicianus  excubi- 
torides.       Abundant  summer  resident  throughout 
the   Alleghanian  regions.     Arrives  early  in   May; 
departs  late  in  September. 

218.  Red-eyed    Vireo.     Vireosylva    olivacea.     Abundant 
summer  resident  wherever  there  is  cover  in  all  parts 
of  the  Province.     Arrives  May  24;  departs  late  in 
August. 

219.  Philadelphia    Vireo.     Vireosylva   philadelphica.     A 
regular  summer  resident,  not  abundant,  but  prob- 
ably in  the  woodlands  throughout  the  Province.     I 
found  the  nest  and  eggs  near  Fort  Pelly  (north-west 
of  Duck  Mountain),  June  9,  1884.     (See  Auk,  July, 
1885,  pp.  305,  306.) 

220.  Warbling  Vireo.    Vireosylva  gilva.    Common    sum- 
mer resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region.     Arrives 
May  30. 

221.  Yellow-throated  Vireo.    Lanivireo  flavifrons.     This 
species  has  not  yet  been  taken  in  Manitoba,  so  far 
as  I  know,  but  being  an  Eastern  species  taken  at 
Yorktown,  Sask.,  by  W.  Raine,  and  at  Moosejaw 
by  Miller  Christy,  it  is  included  as  probable.     W.  R. 
Hine  claims  to  have  seen  it  on  the  Red  River. 

222.  Blue-headed  Vireo.    Lanivireo  solitaries.     Summer 
resident  in   all  parts  of  Manitoba;  not  common. 
Arrives  about  May  15. 

223.  Black  and  White  Warbler.     Mniotilta  varia.     Sum- 
mer resident  in  all  the  wooded  parts  of  the  Province ; 


222  FAUNA 

apparently  most  numerous  in  the  spruce  forests  of 
the  Canadian  region.  Arrives  about  May  15; 
departs  at  the  end  of  August.  v1. 

224.  Nashville    Warbler.     Helminthopkila     rubricapilla. 
Rare  summer  resident.     Noted  at  Aweme,  Lake 
Manitoba,  Duck  Mountain,  and  along  Red  River. 

225.  Orange-crowned    Warbler.     Helminthophila    celata. 
Common  summer  resident  of  all  woodlands,  appar- 
ently throughout  the  Province.     Arrives  May  12; 
departs  end  of  September. 

226.  Tennessee     Warbler.      Helminthophila      peregrina. 
Summer  resident,  breeding  in  most  woodlands,  but 
not  plentiful.     Noted  on  Big  Plain  and  Duck  Moun- 
tain,  and   along  Red   River  near  Winnipeg.     At 
Pembina  common  in  the  spring  migration  (Coues}. 
North  shore  of  Lake  Winnipeg  (Kennicott}.    Aweme 
(Griddle).     Arrives  in  mid-May;  departs  at  the  end 
of  September. 

227.  Cape  May  Warbler.     Dendroica  tigrina.     Abundant 
migrant  along  Red  River  and  a  common  summer 
resident  in  some  regions,  but  erratic  in  distribution. 
Recorded  from  Winnipeg,  Shoal  Lake,  and  Moose 
Factory.     Migrates  in  mid-May  and  late  August. 

228.  Yellow  Warbler.     Dendroica  aestiva.     Very  abun- 
dant summer  resident  of  all  thickets  and  woods 
throughout  the  Province.     Arrives  May  15;  departs 
September  7. 

229.  Myrtle   Warbler.     Dendroica   coronata.     Abundant 
migrant  throughout  the  Province,  breeding  in  the 
Canadian  region.     Arrives  April  23;  departs  Sep- 
tember 12. 

230.  Magnolia    Warbler.     Dendroica    magnolia.     Noted 
only  as  a  migrant,  but  doubtless  breeds  in  the 
Canadian  region.     Arrives  mid-May:  departs  early 
September. 


OF  MANITOBA  223 

231.  Chestnut-sided  Warbler.     Dendroica  pennsylvanica. 
Common  summer  resident  in  woodlands  of  the  Alle- 
ghanian  region.     Arrives  about  May  20. 

232.  Bay-breasted    Warbler.     Dendroica     castanea.      A 
regular  migrant,  especially  along  Red  River;  not 
common.     Probably  breeds  in  the   northernmost 
part  of  the  Province.     Arrives  mid-May. 

233.  Black-poll    Warbler.     Dendroica    striata.     Noted 
only  as  a  migrant ;  not  plentiful.     Arrives  at  Aweme 
about  May  13. 

234.  Black- throated  Green  Warbler.     Dendroica  virens. 
Norman  Criddle  reports  this  at  Aweme  on  May  13 
and  17,  1898. 

235.  Blackburnian   Warbler.     Dendroica   Uackburniae. 
A  rare  migrant  in  the  Alleghanian  region,  probably 
breeding  in  the  Canadian.     Arrives  l^te  May. 

236.  Pine  Warbler.     Dendroica  vigorsi.     A  rare  summer 
resident  in  the  evergreen  forests  of  South-eastern 
Manitoba.     "A-irives  about  May  10;  departs  about 
September  2"   (Criddle}. 

237.  Palm  Warbler.     Dendroica  palmarum.     A  common 
spring  and  fall  migrant  in  the  Alleghanian  region; 
may  breed  in  the  Canadian.     Passes  about  the  first 
week  of  May,  and  again  about  September  15. 

238.  Ovenbird.     Seiurus    aurocapillus.     Common    sum- 
mer   resident    of    woodlands;    apparently    found 
throughout   the    Province.     Arrives   in   mid-May; 
departs  in  mid-September. 

239.  Water-thrush.     Seiurus    noveboracensis    notabilis. 
Common  summer  resident  of  all  woodlands  where 
there  is  water.     Arrives  in  mid-May ;  departs  late  in 
September. 

240.  Connecticut  Warbler.     Oporornis  ag-ilis.     Somewhat 
common  summer  resident  from  mid-May  to  early 


224  FAUNA 

September.  Noted  on  Duck  Mountain,  Big  Plain-, 
and  along  Red  River.  Nest  found  June  21,  1883. 
(See  Auk,  April,  1884,  pp.  192,  193.) 

241.  Mourning  Warbler.     Oporornis  Philadelphia.   Com- 
mon summer  resident  of  dry  scrub  lands  throughout 
the  Alleghanian  region,  arriving  in  late  May,  "de- 
parting early  in  September"  (C riddle]. 

242.  Northern  Yellowthroat.     Geothylpis  trichas.     Com- 
mon summer  resident  of  thickets  in  the  Alleghanian 
region,  arriving  about  May  20,  departing  in  Sep- 
tember. 

343.  Wilson  Warbler.  Wilsonia  pus-ilia.  Summer  resi- 
dent throughout  the  Province;  not  common.  Ar- 
riving in  mid-May,  departing  in  mid-September. 

244.  Canadian  Warbler.     Wilsonia  canadensis.     Appar- 
ently  found   throughout   the   Province   as   a  rare 
summer    resident.     According    to    N.  'Criddle    it 
arrives    about    May    20    and    departs    the   last    of 
August. 

245.  American  Redstart.     Setophaga  ruticilla.     Common 
summer  resident  of  all  woodlands      Arrives  in  mid- 
May;  departs  in  mid-September. 

246.  American      Pipit.     Anthus    rubecens.       Abundant 
spring  and  fall  migrant  throughout  the  Province. 

247.  Sprague  Pipit.,  Missouri  Skylark     Anthus  spraguei. 
Formerly  resident   summer  of   Assiniboine  region 
wherever  there  were  high  dry  prairies,  arriving  May 
1,   departing  September    1.     This  bird  was   very 
abundant  on  the  Big  Plain  in  1882,  but  in  1892  I 
failed  to  see  or  hear  a  single  individual  in  the 
country.     It  appears  to  have  totally  disappeared. 
This  is  unquestionably  owing  to  the  breaking  up  of 
the  virgin  prairie. 

248.  Catbird.     Dumetella  carolmensis.     Abundant  sum- 


OF  MANITOBA  225 

mer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region.     Arrives  in 
mid-May;  departs  mid-September. 

249.  Brown    Thrasher.     Toxostoma     rufmn.      Common 
summer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region  wherever 
there  are  open  woodlands.     Arrives  May  15;  de- 
parts September  7. 

250.  Western  House  Wren.     Troglodytes  aedon  parkmani. 
Abundant  summer  resident,  apparently  confined  to 
the  Alleghanian  region.     Arrives  May  20;  departs 
about  the  end  of  September. 

251.  Winter  Wren.     Nannus  hiemalis.     This  is  a  wood- 
land  species,    apparently   common   in   the   south- 
eastern   quarter    of     the    Povince    only.     R.    H. 
Hunter  found  it  a  common  summer  resident  in  the 
woods  east  of  Winnipeg.     C.  W.  Nash  saw  one  at 
Winnipeg,  and  another  at  Portage  la  Prairie.     N. 
Criddle  found  it  at  Aweme. 

252.  Short-billed    Marsh-wren.     Cistothorus    stellaris. 
Summer  resident  of  the  Alleghanian  region ;  erratic 
in  distribution.     Preble  found  it  at  Norway  House. 
Arrives  May  15;  departs  Sept.  15. 

253.  Long-billed    Marsh-wren.      Telmatodytes    palustris 
iliacus.     Summer   resident;    of   extensive,    though 
erratic,  distribution.     Common  at  Winnipeg,  Shoal 
Lake,  and  Portage  la  Prairie.     Recorded  at  Oak 
Point,  Aweme,  Waterhen  River,  and  on  Saskat- 
chewan.    Arrives  early  in  May. 

254.  Brown  Creeper.    Certhia  familiaris  americana.     A 
rare   summer  resident.     Noted  at   Winnipeg  and 
Portage  la  Prairie,  and  Riding  Mountain. 

255.  Slender-billed  Nuthatch.    Sitta  carolinensis  aculeata. 
Somewhat  rare  resident  of  the  heavily  timbered 
regions.     Absent  from  the  Province  only  during 
the  hardest  part  of  the  winter. 


226  FAUNA 

256.  Red-breasted    Nuthatch.     Siita    canadensis.      Rare 
summer  resident  of  the  woods  in  all  parts  of  the 
Province;  abundant  during  the  migration  in  Sep- 
tember. 

257.  Long-tailed  Chickadee.     Penthestes  atricapillus  sep- 
tentrionalis.     Resident;  abundant  in  all  the  wood- 
lands.    The  Manitoba  bird  is  not  strictly  septentrio- 
nalis,  but.  is  nearer  to  that  form  than  to  atricapillus. 

258.  Hudsonian  Chickadee.     Penthestes  hudsonicus.    The 
only  record  is  as  follows :-—"  In  flocks  around  the 
Porcupine    Mountains"     (Macoun).     The    bird    is 
certainly  not  found  in  the  Assiniboine  region,  and 
there  are  no  Red  River  records,  though  it  should  be 
the  prevailing  species  in  the  Winnipeg  Basin. 

259.  Golden-crowned    Kinglet.     Regulus  satrapa.     Rare 
migrant.     Noted  at  Carberry,  November  5,   1884, 
and  recorded  also  from  Aweme,  Portage  la  Prairie, 
and  Winnipeg. 

260.  Ruby-crowned  Kinglet.     Regulus  calendula.     Com- 
mon migrant.     Noted  on  Big  Plain  about  May  15, 
along  Red  River,  and  at  Portage  la  Prairie.     "On 
Souris  in  September"  (Cones).     Probably  breeds  in 
the    north-east    part    of    the    Province.       Passes 
through  in  late  April  and  early  May;  again  about 
the  1st  of  October. 

261.  Willow    Veery.     Hylocichla    juscescens    sahcicola. 
Abundant  summer  resident  of  all  thickets  in  the 
Alleghanian  region.     Arrives  in  mid-May:  departs 
early  in  September. 

262.  Gray-cheeked  Thrush.    Hylocichla  aliciae.    Common 
migrant.     Imperfectly  observed,  as  it  is  not  usually 
distinguished  from  the  next. 

26o.  Olive-backed   Thrush.     Hylocichla   ustulata   swain- 
son  i.     Common    summer    resident    of.    woodlands 


OF  MANITOBA  227 

apparently  throughout  the  Province.     Arrives  May 
1;  departs  early  in  October. 

201.  Hermit  Thrush.  Hylocichla  guttata  pallasi.  Com- 
mon summer  resident  of  woodlands  in  the  Canadian 
region.  A  migrant  in  the  Alleghanian,  passing  in 
late  April  and  early  October. 

265.  American  Robin.     Planesticus  migratorius.     Abun- 
dant  summer  resident   throughout   the   Province. 
Arrives  April  15;  departs  October  15. 

266.  Bluebird.     Sialia  sialis.     Formerly  very  rare;  has 
become  quite    a  regular  summer    resident    in  the 
country  along    the  Assiniboine,  and    nearly   every 
grove  of  oak  of  any  extent  is  found  to  have  a  pair 
making  their  home   in    it    along  with   the  Purple 
Martins. 

268.  Mountain  Bluebird.  Sialia  currucoides.  E.  H. 
Patterson  secured  one  of  a  pair  that  he  found  at  a 
place  two  miles  west  of  Brandon,  and  sent  the  same 
to  G.  E.  Atkinson,  who  recorded  it  in  "Man.  Free 
Press,"  March  5,  1904.  To  this,  Norman  Griddle 
(the  naturalist  responsible  for  records  from  Aweme) 
adds  ("Ottawa  Naturalist,"  July,  1904,  pp.  85,  86) 
that  the  species  is  by  no  means  uncommon  about 
the  Carberry  sandhills,  and  that  he  has  taken  nu- 
merous nests  there. 


THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES  OF 

MANITOBA 

By  PROFESSOR  EDWARD  E.  PRINCE, 

Dominion  Commissioner  of  Fisheries  and  Canadian  Representative  on  the 
International  Fisheries  Commission. 

IT  has  been  justifiably  claimed  for  the  fishing  industries 
of  Manitoba  that  they  are  the  greatest  fresh-water 
fisheries  in  the  world.  The  earliest  fishery  was  carried 
on  by  the  native  Indian  tribes  for  food  for  themselves 
and  their  dogs,  but  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  at  their  numerous  posts  in  this  region,  de-, 
pended  upon  fish  very  largely,  and  since  1811,  when  the 
first  white  settlers  were  brought  to  the  banks  of  the  Red 
River  by  Lord  Selkirk,  a  regular  fishery  has  been  pursued, 
which  has  grown  to  enormous  dimensions,  especially 
during  the  last  thirty  years.  The  species  of  principal 
importance  are  the  lake  whitefish  (Coregonus  clupei- 
formis),  the  pike-perch  or  yellow  pickerel  (Stitzostedion 
vitreuni),  the  sturgeon  (Acipenser),  and  the  pike  or 
jackfish  (Lucius).  The  whitefish  of  Manitoba,  especially 
of  Lake  Winnipeg,  have  an  envied  reputation  in  the 
markets  of  this  continent;  and  the  caviare  and  flesh  of 
the  sturgeon  from  these  waters  have  always  ranked  very 
high. 

The  relative  economic  importance   of    the  following 
species  may  be  judged  from  the  figures  given  below. 


1887                                 1897                                1907 

Weight 

Value 

Weight 

Value 

Weight 

Value 

Whitefish  . 

2,300,000  IDs. 

$106,000 

3,363,900fts. 

$16S,193 

3,695,000  Ibs. 

$258,650 

Pike-perch. 

144,500  " 

5,800 

1,343,000  " 

53,721 

3,995,000  " 

239,700 

Pike  

311,000  " 

8200 

639,973  " 

6,399 

2,321,000  " 

81,235 

Tullibee  .  . 

18,736  " 

650 

359,410  " 

3,594 

1.380,000  " 

4S.300 

THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES  OF  MANITOBA          229 

During  the  last  twenty  years  the  annual  value  of  the 
fisheries  of  the  Province  has  risen  rapidly,  partly  owing 
to  the  exploitation  of  new  waters,  and  partly  owing  to 
the  higher  market  value  of  food-fishes  in  recent  years. 
Thus,  in  1887,  the  total  value  was  $129,084,  in  1897 
$261,126,  and  in  1907  it  was  $806,615.  While  a  propor- 
tion of  the  catch  is  sent  to  local  and  to  Eastern  Canadian 
markets,  the  greater  part  (fully  75%)  is  sent  to  the 
United  States  markets,  certain  large  foreign  "fish  com- 
bines" having  undoubted  control  over  the  handling  of 
these  supplies  of  Canadian  fish.  The  last  official 
returns  (1907)  credit  the  Province  with  a  total 
catch  of  16,538,500  Ibs.  of  fish  of  all  kinds  for  that 
year. 

The  total  area  of  the  waters  fished  is  not  less  than 
20,000  square  miles,  the  three  largest  lakes,  Lake  Winni- 
peg (9,460  sq.  miles),  Lake  Winnipegosis  (2,068  sq. 
miles),  and  Lake  Manitoba  (1,775  sq.  miles)  exceeding 
the  Netherlands  in  extent,  but  other  lakes,  St.  Martin, 
Dauphin,  Shoal,  Swan  and  Waterhen,  contribute  their 
quota,  these  lakes  ranging  from  100  to  200  square  miles, 
while  Moose  (552  sq.  miles),  Cedar  (285  sq.  miles),  Play- 
green  (223  sq.  miles)  and  other  more  distant  lakes, 
though  beyond  the  Provincial  boundary,  must  be  in- 
cluded in  the  Manitoba  fisheries,  all  the  catches  being 
sent  down  to  the  main  shipping  points  in  the  Province. 
It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  Manitoba  lakes  are 
exclusively  in  Canadian  territory,  and  are  not  shared,  as 
are  the  Great  Lakes  to  the  east,  with  the  Republic  to 
the  south.  Hence,  while  Lake  Superior  is  more  than 
three  times  the  area  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  Huron  twice, 
and  Erie  almost  of  the  same  area,  yet  the  superficial  ex- 
tent of  the  Canadian  portion  of  these  eastern  waters  does 
not  greatly  exceed  the  total  area  of  the  Manitoba  fishing 
grounds. 

To     develop   the   fishing   industry   on   an   adequate 


230  THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES 

scale,  in  waters  so  vast,  large  capital  was  essential. 
Fishing  companies  were  accordingly  organized,  with 
fleets  of  steam  tugs,  immense  outfits  of  nets,  ice  houses 
and  stores,  refrigerators  and  other  necessary  equipment. 
Fishing  on  a  limited  scale  had  always  been  engaged  in 
by  the  settlers  and  Indians,  and  the  numerous  Icelandic 
colonies  in  more  recent  years  have  assiduously  continued 
this  practice.  Much  of  this  fishing  is  carried  on  through 
holes  in  the  ice  in  winter.  But  even  so  recently  as  1899 
the  Winnipeg  Board  of  Trade  stated  that  the  fishing 
industries  of  the  Province  were  only  "in  their  infancy," 
and  undoubtedly,  with  proper  safeguards  against  de- 
pletion, these  industries,  which  have  increased,  like  the 
population  of  the  Province,  more  than  sixfold  during  the 
last  twenty  years,  are  still  capable  of  further  develop- 
ment. The  productiveness  of  the  waters  of  the  Province  is 
proved  by  the  fact  that  from  1890  to  1907  84,000,000  Ibs. 
of  whitefish  were  shipped  from  Manitoba  and  5,329,000 
Ibs.  of  sturgeon,  including  a  large  quantity  of  caviare, 
much  of  it  exported  to  German)'-  to  be  sold  as  the  best 
Russian  product.  Like  all  fisheries,  those  of  this 
Province  have  been  subject  to  fluctuations  ;  some 
branches,  such  as  the  sturgeon  fishery,  have  alarmingly 
declined,  while  others,  like  the  pike-perch  or  pickerel 
fishery,  have  greatly  expanded.  The  whitefish  supply, 
in  the  opinion  of  many,  has  decreased,  and  the  large 
annual  catch,  in  1906  exceeding  5,000,000  Ibs.,  was,  it 
is  held,  due  only  to  more  persistent  fishing  and  the  use 
of  excessive  amounts  of  gear.  All  fishing  operations  are 
carried  on  under  license  from  the  Dominion  Government, 
and  under  the  supervision  of  a  staff  of  Federal  fishery 
officers,  who  have  authority  to  enforce  the  laws  and 
regulations  under  the  Dominion  Fishery  Act. 

The  parties  who  carry  on  fishing  consist  of  (1)  large 
fishing  companies  in  which  United  States  firms  have 
very  considerable  interest,  they  operate  in  the  northern 


OF  MANITOBA  231 

parts  of  Lake  Winnipeg  and  the  more  distant  lakes, 
chiefly  in  summer  and  in  extensive  areas  where  fishermen 
without  capital,  tugs,  fish-houses  and  refrigerators  could 
not  take  or  handle  the  fish.  (2)  Settlers,  largely  Scandi- 
navians, with  a  proportion  of  Austrians  and  Germans, 
who  fish  in  summer  in  small  boats,  and,  on  a  vastly  more 
extensive  scale,  through  the  ice  in  winter,  mainly  in  the 
shallower  southern  parts  of  Lake  Winnipeg  and  in  the 
smaller  lakes.  (3)  Indians  and  half-breeds,  who  fish 
from  their  reserves  for  food  but  also  for  sale,  and 
have  specially  carried  on. a  sturgeon  fishery.  In  the 
rivers,  such  as  the  Red  River,  settlers  and  others  use 
seines  and  other  apparatus  for  catching  pickerel  or  pike- 
perch,  catfish,  gold-eyes  (an  excellent  fresh-water 
herring),  perch,  and  coarse  fish. 

It  is  estimated  that  at  least  5,000  persons  are  more  or 
less  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  but  the  number  of  regular 
fishermen  is  now  about  2,000,  as  compared  with  850 
twenty  years  ago.  In  1837,  it  may  be  noted,  there  were 
7  steam  tugs,  550  tons  total,  valued  at  $26,500;  and  65 
fishing  boats,  118  tons,  valued  at  $6,785;  whereas  there 
are  now  22  tugs  of  1,034  tons  total  tonnage,  valued  at 
$132,000  and  employing  about  150  men,  and  in  addition 
530  boats,  valued  at  $24,000,  with  crews  totalling  up  to 
1,800  men.  Fishing  by  means  of  baited  lines,  fyke  or 
hoop  nets,  etc.,  is  extensively  pursued,  and  the  takes  are 
principally  coarse  fish,  the  present  annual  catch  of  which 
amounts  to  no  less  than  5,000,000  Ibs.  The  cleaning 
of  the  fish,  icing,  and  other  processes  are  carried  out  at 
various  points  on  the  lakes,  such  as  Spider  Island,  Black 
River,  Eagle  Island,  Poplar  River,  Beren's  River,  Snake 
Island,  Bull  Head,  Horse  Island,  and  Warren's  Landing, 
these  resembling  busy  villages,  with  wharves  and  crowded 
dwellings.  Warren's  Landing  is  about  400  miles  from 
Winnipeg  city.  About  ten  years  ago  fresh  fish,  in 
broken  ice,  were  first  brought  from  Selkirk  Island  (at  the 


232  THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES 

north  end  of  Lake  Winnipeg)  and  shipped  from  the  town 
of  Selkirk  in  refrigerator  cars,  and  were  found  in  some 
United  States  cities  to  be  preferred  to  the  frozen  fish 
heretofore  imported.  A  large  business  has  been  since 
then  maintained.  The  main  catches  brought  from  the 
fishing  grounds  by  tugs  and  sail-boats  to  the  various 
islands  referred  to,  after  being  cleaned,  packed,  and  iced, 
are  brought  down  to  Selkirk  from  Lake  Winnipeg,  and 
to  Winnipegosis  Town,  from  Winnipegosis,  Cedar,  and 
other  lakes.  From  over  a  hundred  of  these  remote 
establishments,  with  plants  valued  at  nearly  $250,000, 
the  principal  summer  catches  are  received  at  the  large 
refrigerators.  That  of  the  Dominion  Fish  Company  at 
Selkirk  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  Canada,  if  not  on  the 
whole  American  continent,  having  a  capacity  of  two 
million  pounds,  though  many  times  that  amount  passes 
through  the  freezing  rooms  in  a  single  season.  In  the 
large  freezers  the  fish  are  neatly  laid  on  flat  trays,  sub- 
jected to  a  temperature  of  15°  below  zero,  and  exported 
by  the  carload  when  the  markets  are  favourable.  The 
ammonia  process  has  been  adopted,  the  ammonia  being 
forced  by  powerful  engines  into  vacua,  thus  reducing  the 
temperature,  and  the  cold  gas  is  then  driven  through 
circulating  pipes,  which  pass  along  the  insulated  store 
rooms,  where  a  temperature  of  20°  below  freezing  can  be 
readily  attained,  but  the  usual  temperature  is  only  about 
zero.  The  ammonia,  after  circulating,  is  restored  to 
its  original  density  by  the  action  of  running  water  and 
is  ready  for  the  circulating  process  again.  In  the  large 
refrigerator  establishment  just  mentioned  about  3,000 
Ibs.  of  ammonia  are  used,  emptying  and  re-filling  being 
carried  out  several  times  in  the  course  of  the  year. 

Unlike  the  fisheries  of  Ontario  and  the  eastern  Pro- 
vinces and  British  Columbia,  in  which  each  Province 
has  property  rights,  the  property  and  jurisdiction  are, 
in  Manitoba,  vested  solely  in  the  hands  of  the  Dominion 


OF  MANITOBA  233 

Government;  and  the  Minister  of  Marine  and  Fisheries, 
Ottawa,  issues  licenses,  authorizes  restrictions,  close 
seasons,  etc.,  for  the  preservation  of  the  fishery  re- 
sources. As  an  effective  safeguard  against  depletion  the 
Federal  Government  has  erected  fish-hatcheries  (at 
Selkirk,  Beren's  River,  Winnipegosis,  and  other  places) , 
and  vast  quantities  of  fry  of  whitefish,  and  various  valu- 
able species,  are  planted  each  season  from  these  estab- 
lishments. 

NOTES  ON  THE  FISHES  OF  MANITOBA 

Apart  from  their  commercial  importance,  the  fishes  of 
the  Province  have  a  scientific  interest  arising  from  the 
fact  that  they  form  a  fish  fauna  distinctly  marked  off 
from  that  of  the  great  lakes  and  eastern  waters,  and  have 
nothing  in  common  with  the  Pacific  fish  fauna.  None  of 
the  ancient  fresh-water  types  of  Canada  such  as  the 
Gar-pike  (Lepisosteus  osseus,  Linn)  and  Bowfin  (Amia 
calva,  Linn)  occur,  though  sturgeon  of  two  species  are 
found,  but  the  sturgeon  is  doubtless,  primitively,  an 
anadromous  ocean  fish.  The  speckled  char  or  brook 
trout  (Salvelinus  fontinalis,  Mitch.),  the  lesser  whitefish 
(Argyrosomus  artedi,  Le  Sueur),  the  sea  salmon  (Salmo 
salar,  Linn.),  as  also  the  black  spotted  trout  (S.  clarkii) 
of  Albertan  waters,  the  Inconnu  (Stenodus  mackenzii, 
Richardson)  of  the  Mackenzie,  and  certain  Arctic  and 
Pacific  salmon  and  trout  are  absent,  and  bear  out  the 
geologist's  view  that  the  Manitoba  system  of  lakes  and 
rivers  is  unconnected  with  the  eastern  and  western 
drainage  systems,  and  really  comprises  the  remnants  of 
a  northern  expansion  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi 
system  with  a  former  outflow  to  the  south.  Geographi- 
cally these  lakes  are  the  western  members  of  the  great 
lake  chain  lying,  for  a  thousand  miles,  along  the  southern 
margin  of  the  vast  Archaean  shield  which  dips,  to  the 


234  THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES 

north,  beneath  the  waters  of  Hudson  Bay.  Geologi- 
cally they  are  all  that  remain  of  the  vast  post-glacial 
Lake  Agassiz,  of  an  estimated  area  of  1 10,000  sq.  miles,  the 
sediments  of  which,  as  the  late  Dr.  George  Dawson  said, 
"constitute  the  richest  wheat  lands  of  Manitoba." 
Near  the  Cypress  Hills  on  the  west  and  in  the  opposite 
direction  (south  of  Lake  of  the  Woods)  the  Manitoba 
waters  still  maintain  communication  by  muskegs  and 
marshy  streams  with  the  Mississippi  system  to  the  south. 

The  presence  in  abundance  of  a  lesser  whitefish,  not 
found  to  the  east  or  the  west,  viz.,  the  Tullibee  (Argyro- 
somus  tullibee,  Richardson),  a  soft  inferior  lesser  white- 
fish  or  lake  herring,  and  of  the  Gold-eye  (Hiodon  chrysop- 
sis,  Richardson),  an  ally  of  the  Clupeidae,  a  very  plentiful 
and  excellent  food-fish,  emphasises  the  separateness  of 
this  aquatic  area,  while  the  presence  of  the  sturgeon  and 
of  the  Methy  or  Lake  Ling  (Lota  maculosa,  Le  Sueur) 
indicates  that  connections  with  the  sea,  such,  as  geology 
demonstrates,  .  have  occurred,  owing  to  subsidence 
at  various  epochs.  Certain  universally  distributed 
species  are  found,  e.g.,  the  pikes  or  jack-fishes  (of  which 
two  species  occur,  Lucius  lucius  Linn.,  and  Lucius 
masquinongy,  Mitchill),  both  of  exceptionally  good 
table  qualities,  as  well  as  the  bearded  cat-fishes  and 
carp-like  suckers;  but  the  glutinous  nature  of  their  eggs 
may  explain  their  wide  dispersion,  probably  by  water 
birds. 

The  following  list  of  species  is  believed  to  include  most 
of  the  fishes  authentically  known  to  occur,  but  many 
other  species  await  discovery  in  this  extensive  area  of 
waters  where  investigations,  so  far,  have  been  frag- 
mentary and  inadequate. 


OF  MANITOBA  235 


LIST  OF  MANITOBA  FISHES 

FAMILY  Petromyzontidae. 

Ichthyomyzon    castaneus,    Girard.     The    Northern 

Lamprey.  • 
FAMILY  Acipenseridae. 

Acipenser  rubicundus,    Le  Sueur.  The   Lake 

Sturgeon. 
Acipenser  sturio,  Linnaeus.     The  Common  Sturgeon. 

FAMILY  Siluridse. 

Ictalurus    punctatus,     Rafinesque.  Channel 

or  Spotted  Catfish. 

Ameiurus  lacrustis,    Walbaum.     Great    Lake    Cat- 
fish or  Mathemeag. 

,,  vulgaris,  Thompson.     The  Dark  Catfish, 

nebulosus,  Le  Sueur.     Common  Bullhead 

or  Horned  Pout. 
FAMILY  Caostomidae. 

Ictiobus  cyprinella,  Cuv.  and  Valenciennes.    Buffalo 

fish. 

bubalis,     Rafinesque.     White     or      Small- 
mouth  Sucker. 
Catostomus   catostomus,  Forster.  Northern 

Sucker. 
,,  commersonii,      Lacepede.        Common 

White  Sucker. 
Carpiodes  velifer,  Rafinesque.  The  Ouillback 

Sucker. 
Moxostoma    anisurum,    Rafinesque.      White-nosed 

Red  Horse. 
,,  aureolum,   Le  Sueur.     The  Mullet  or 

Red  Horse. 

,,  lesueuri,    Richardson.     Northern   Red 

Horse. 


236 


THE  FISH  AND  FISHERIES 


FAMILY  Cyprinidae. 

Hybognathus  nuchalis,    Agassiz. 

Minnow. 
,,  argyritis,    Girard. 

Minnow. 
Pimphales  promelas,  Rafinesque. 

Bull  Minnow. 
Notropis  blennius,     Girard. 

Minnow. 
,,    hudsonius  selene,  Starr  Jordan. 

Spawn  Eater. 

,,  jejunus,  Forbes.  The  Poor  Minnow. 

,,  atherinoides,  Rafinesque.  The  Great 

Minnow. 

Hybopsis  storerianus,  Kirtland. 
FAMILY  Hiodontidse 

Hiodon  chrysopsis,  Richardson. 

Eye. 

tergisus,  Le  Sueur. 
alosoides,  Rafinesque. 

Eye. 
FAMILY  Salmonidae. 

Coregonus  clupeiformis,   Mitchill. 

Lake  Whitefish. 
labradoricus,    Richardson. 

Whitefish. 
Cristivomer  namaycush,  Walbaum.        Great  Lake 

Trout,  Touladi  or  Grey  Trout. 
Argyrosomus   tullibee,    Richardson.      The  Tullibee 
or  Mongrel  Whitefish. 

FAMILY  Esocidae  or  Luciidfe. 

Lucius  lucius,  Linnaeus.         The  Jack-fish  or  Pike, 
masquinongy,  Mitchill.        The  Maskinonge" 
(erroneously  Muskellunge.) 


The  Silver 

The    White 

The  Fathead  or 

Straw-coloured 


The  Shiner, 


Storer's  Minnow. 

Western  Gold- 

The  Moon-Eye. 
The  Shad  Moon- 


The  Common 
Labrador 


OF  MANITOBA 


237 


FAMILY  Gastrosteidae. 

Pygosteus  pungitius,  Linnaeus. 

back. 

Eucalia  inconstans,  Kirtland. 
FAMILY  Percopsidae. 

Percopsis  guttatus,  Agassiz. 

Sand  Roller. 
FAMILY  Centrarchidae. 

Pomoxis  sparoides,  Lacepede. 


Nine-spined  Stickle- 
Brook  Stickleback. 


The  Trout  Perch  or 


The  Calico  Bass. 


Small-mouth 


Large-mouth 


Yellow  Pickerel, 


Ambloplites   ruprestris,    Rafinesque.     Green    Rock 

Bass. 

Micropterus   dolornieu,  Lacepede. 
Black  Bass 
salmoides,  Lacepede. 
Black  Bass. 
FAMILY  Percidae. 

Stizostedion  vitreum,    Mitchill. 

Pike-perch  or  Dore. 
canadense  griseum,  DeKay.         Grey 
Sauger  or  Pike  perch. 

Perca  flavescens,  Mitchill.  The  Yellow  Perch. 

Hadropterus  aspro,  Cope  and  Jordan.     Black-sided 

Darter. 
"  guntheri,  Eigenmann  and  Eigenmann. 

Gunther's  Darter. 
Boleosoma  nigrum,  Rafinesque.     Johnny  Darter. 

boreale,  Starr  Jordan.    Northern  Darter 
FAMILY  Sciasnidae.     . 

Aplodinotus  grunniens,  Rafinesque.     Sheephead  or 

Lake  Drum-fish. 
FAMILY  Cottidae. 

Cottus  pollicaris,  Jordan  and  Gilbert.     Olivaceous 

Miller's  Thumb. 
FAMILY  Gadidae. 

Lota   maculosa,    Le    Sueur.     Lake    Ling,    Burbot, 
Lake  Cusk,  Losh  and  Methy. 


THE  INDIANS  OF  WESTERN  CANADA 

By  THE  HON.  DAVID  LAIRD, 
Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs. 

WESTERN   CANADA  may   be   described   as   ex- 
tending   from    the    eastern    watershed    of    the 
watershed    Lake    Winnipeg   basin    west  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  from  the  International  Boundary 
to  the  Arctic  waters  and  the  Hudson's  Bay. 

This  territory  since  first  known  to  white  men  has 
been  inhabited  by  four  distinct  families  of  aborigines: 
the  Esquimaux,  who  frequent  the  coasts  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean  and  of  the  bays  and  estuaries  of  rivers  opening 
thereunto;  the  Dene  or  Athabascan,  whose  habitat 
extends  from  the  domain  of  the  Esquimaux  south  to 
the  Peace  and  Churchill  Rivers  and  west  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains;  the  Algonquins,  extending  from  Eastern 
Canada  over  the  country  south  of  the  Athabascan 
habitat  to  the  International  Boundary;  and  the  Sioux 
or  Dakotah  family,  whose  habitat  in  Canada  is  small 
portions  of  the  prairies  south  of  the  North  Saskatchewan 
River. 

The  principal  branch  of  the  Athabascan  family 
are  the  Chipewyan,  often  on  account  of  the  similarity 
of  name  confounded  with  the  Chippewas  or  Ojibways 
who  belong  to  the  Algonquin  family.  Another  tribe 
belonging  to  the  Athabascan  family  are  the  Beavers 
of  the  Peace  river.  The  Sarcees,  now  settled  upon  a 
reserve  near  Calgary,  belong  to  the  Beaver  tribe.  In 
time  long  past  they  left  the  habitat  of  the  race,  moved 
into  the  Algonquin  country,  and  remaining  there, 
came  to  be  commonly  regarded  as  a  distinct  people. 
The  Slaves,  Yellow  Knives,  Dog  Ribs,  and  other  small 


CROWFOOT 

Chief  of  the   Blackfoot    Nation.   Died   25th   April,    1890,   Aged   69  Years 
"Crowfoot  died  beloved  t,v  his  people,  feiired  h.v  his  foes,  esteemed  1>>  all."      Indian  Report  I'd 


THE  INDIANS  OF  WESTERN  CANADA  239 

tribes  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake  and  Mackenzie  River 
country  also  belong  to  the  Athabascan  family. 

The  main  divisions  of  the  Algonquins  in  Western 
Canada  are  the  Saulteaux  or  Chippewas,  the  Crees, 
and  the  Blackfoot  tribe,  which  latter  originally  included 
the  Bloods  and  the  Peigans.  The  Assiniboines  are  the 
Canadian  branch  of  the  Sioux.  They  separated  from 
the  main  group,  and  in  time  their  interests  became 
so  diverse  that  they  came  to  be  regarded  as  a  separate 
people,  and  in  fact  joined  in  alliance  with  the  Saulteaux 
against  the  Sioux  nation.  The  Sioux  proper  in  this 
country  are  refugees  from  the  United  States,  who  escap- 
ed into  British  territory  after  displaying  some  of  the 
worst  features  of  Indian  warfare  in  Minnesota  in  the 
year  1862.  They  had  no  claim  to  lands  in  Canada, 
but  were  allotted  small  reserves  and  given  some 
assistance  in  stock  and  implements  to  prevent  them 
from  trespassing  upon  settlers'  holdings.  Most  of  these 
Sioux  have  become  industrious  and  self-supporting. 

Apart  from  family  and  tribal  distinctions  the  Indians 
of  Western  Canada  can  be  grouped  into  two  classes — 
those  of  the  wooded  country,  and  those  of  the  open 
prairie.  The  former  made  their  livelihood  mainly 
by  trapping  and  fishing,  and  moved  as  single  families 
or  as  small  family  groups.  They  did  not  develope  any 
well-defined  tribal  or  band  organization.  As  a  conse- 
quence there  was  less  conflict  among  them,  and  the 
country  which  they  inhabited  was  free  from  tribal 
wars.  They  developed,  therefore,  a  more  peaceable 
disposition.  Being  trappers  of  fur-bearing  animals, 
they  first  came  under  the  influence  of  fur  traders. 

The  Indians  of  the  prairies  formed  into  bands  under 
the  leadership  of  chiefs,  and  their  principal  means  of 
subsistence  was  the  buffalo.  The  different  tribes  came 
constantly  into  conflict.:  the  Crees  of  the  plains  and' 
the  Blackfeet  were  continually  at  war,  the  Assiniboines 
usually  siding  with  the  Crees.  Sometimes  tribal  jealousy 


240  THE  INDIANS  OF 

and  often  the  mere  desire  for  bloody  war  and  barbaric 
torture,  led  to  the  conflict;  but  the  main  cause  of  strife 
among  the  Indians  of  the  plains  was  the  horse.  The 
Blackfeet  possessed  herds  of  horses  which  grew  larger 
from  year  to  year  as  a  result  of  raids  upon  Indians  to 
the  south  and  beyond  the  mountains.  And  the  Crees 
kept  themselves  supplied  amply  with  horses  for  the 
buffalo  hunt  by  raids  on  the  Blackfeet.  The  last  great 
fight  between  the  Crees  and  the  Blackfeet  ended  in  a 
pact  made  upon  the  Peace  Hills  that  rise  beyond  the 
Battle  River — the  river  taking  its  name  from  the  fight, 
and  the  hills  their  appellation  from  the  treaty. 

The  traders  made  little  impression  for  good  upon  the 
Indians,  and  the  mission  field  being  vast  and  the  laborers 
therein  few,  it  took  a  long  time  to  bring  the  aborigines 
to  any  extent  under  the  influence  of  the  Gospel,  particu- 
larly those  of  the  prairie  country,  who  were  not  readily 
susceptible  to  its  teaching.  Writing  as  late  as  1868, 
Archbishop  Tache  described  the  Saulteaux  as  "gener- 
ally fine  men,"  with  "a  very  great  liking  for  intoxic- 
ating drink."  "War  songs,"  he  wrote,  "still  exist  there 
(the  vicinity  of  Winnipeg),  and  often  in  the  midst  of 
starvation  and  privation  they  undertake  journeys  of 
several  hundred  miles  on  foot  to  surprise  and  scalp  an 
enemy  who  is  generally  defenceless,  and  return  triumph- 
antly to  perform  the  war  dance  and  to  shout  the  hideous 
scalping  song." 

After  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  through  the  British 
Government,  obtained  by  purchase  from  the  Hudson 
Bay's  Company  the  transfer  in  1870  of  all  the  territory 
which  now  forms  Western  Canada,  a  comprehensive 
policy  was  adopted  in  dealing  with  the  Indians  of 
the  said  territory.  In  regard  to  all  such  portions  of 
the  transferred  country  as  were  required  for  settlement, 
or  for  mining,  lumbering  or  railways,  treaties  were  made 
with  the  Indians  of  the  districts  successively  needed  for 


WESTERN  CANADA  241 

such  purposes.  Though  the  sovereign  right  to  the  soil 
was  held  by  the  Crown,  yet  it  was  recognized  that  there 
was  an  Indian  title  that  ought  to  be  extinguished  before 
the  land  was  granted  by  patent  to  settlers  or  corporations. 
This  title  is  simply  an  admission  by  the  Government  that 
the  Indians  should  not  be  deprived  of  their  possessory 
rights  without  their  formal  consent  and  compensation. 
Besides  the  compensation,  the  Indians  were  conceded 
reserves  at  places  generally  selected  by  themselves. 
These  reserves  set  aside  for  the  occupation  of  the  Indians 
were  in  most  cases  so  extensive  as  to  allow  one  square 
mile  to  every  five  persons,  or  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty-eight  acres  for  every  man,  woman,  and  child. 
Not  only  were  the  Indians  thus  dealt  with,  but  the 
Halfbreeds  wherever  the  land  they  occupied  was  covered 
by  an  Indian  treaty,  on  account  of  their  possessing  Indian 
blood,  have  been  allowed  lands  or  scrip  to  extinguish 
the  share  of  title  which  comes  to  them  through  that 
blood . 

The  Indian  treaties  made  under  the  Dominion  Govern- 
ment since  1870  are  ten  in  number,  though  one  of  them, 
Treaty  nine,  does  not  come  under  the  scope  of  this  paper, 
as  it  was  undertaken  in  co-operation  with  the  Provincial 
Government  of  Ontario.  Treaties  one  and  two,  which 
cover  the  Province  of  Manitoba,  were  negotiated  in  1871, 
and  the  others  in  different  years  since,  the  last  being 
in  1906.  These  treaties  embrace  all  the  territory  in 
Canada  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  south  of  the 
60th  parallel  of  north  latitude,  except  a  tract  south  and 
west  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

In  general  the  compensation  granted  under  the  treaties 
was  a  payment  of  twelve  dollars  for  every  man,  woman, 
and  child  on  the  chief's  signing  the  instrument,  and  an 
annuity  forever  of  five  dollars  per  head  to  the  ordinary 
members  of  the  band,  fifteen  dollars  to  each  of  the  head- 
men, and  twenty-five  dollars  to  each  of  the  chiefs.  A 


242  THE  INDIANS  OF 

uniform  suit  of  clothing  befitting  these  two  ranks  is  given 
every  three  years.  An  annual  allowance  of  ammunition 
and  twine  is  also  granted  to  the  hunting  and  fishing 
Indians.  And  where  farming  and  grazing  operations 
are  practicable  and  engaged  in,  a  supply  of  agrictiltural 
implements,  seed  grain,  cattle,  and  carpenter's  tools  are 
provided.  Schools  are  also  established  on  the  reserves 
where  a  reasonable  attendance  can  be  secured. 

It  may  be  considered  by  some  philanthropists  that  the 
terms  to  the  Indians  were  not  generous.  There  was  a 
difficulty  on  this  point.  It  is  not  desirable  that  large 
numbers  of  able-bodied  men,  Indians  or  others  , -should 
be  maintained  in  idleness.  The  promises  in  the  treaties, 
consequently,  were  made  moderate.  But  it  was  foreseen 
that,  owing  at  that  time  to  the  rapid  disappearance  of 
the  buffalo,  the  only  resource  of  the  plains  Indians,  and 
that  with  the  advance  of  settlement  other  large  game 
would  decrease  in  number,  a  heavy  expenditure  would 
have  to  be  incurred  by  the  Dominion  Government  to 
keep  them  from  starvation.  This  anticipation  was 
unfortunately  too  soon  realized.  In  the  eighties  the 
expenditure  of  the  Indian  Department  for  destitute 
Indians  averaged  over  three  hundred  thousand  dollars; 
a  year.  Of  late  this  expenditure  has  been  gradually 
decreasing,  the  report  for  1907-1908  showing  that  the 
cost  of  supplies  for  the  destitute  in  that  year  amounted 
to  only  $143,033.  When  the  Indians  become  almost 
wholly  self-supporting,  large  annuities  would  be  burden- 
some to  the  country  and  demoralizing  to  them  as  wards 
of  the  Government.  The  averaging  up,  therefore,  of  the 
very  large  outlay  that  has  been  incurred  in  provisioning 
and  educating  them  durng  their  years  of  helplessness 
and  tutelage,  with  the  promises  made  to  them  in  the' 
treaties,  has  made  the  allowances  to  them  for  the  extin- ! 
guishment  of  their  title  fairly  liberal. 

A  few  figures  will  show  that  this  contention  is  not' 


WESTERN  CANADA  243 

over-stated.  As  the  Indians  of  the  plains  were  totally 
ignorant  of  agriculture  and  the  care  of  stock,  farm 
instructors  had  to  be  appointed  for  grain  and  vegetable 
raising  reserves,  and  cattlemen  for  the  stock  ranges,  to 
train  them  for  their  new  duties.  These,  with  agents  for 
reserves  or  groups  of  reserves,  and  inspectors  to  report 
upon  their  work,  make  the  administration  of  Indian 
affairs  somewhat  expensive.  Taking  this  outlay  into 
account,  along  with  $271,365  for  schools,  for  the  supplies 
already  mentioned,  and  for  the  provisions  under  treaty, 
the  expenditure  on  Indians  in  Western  Canada  in  1907- 
1908  was  $792,979.  This  amount  cannot  well  be  de- 
creased in  the  near  future,  because,  though  the  plain 
Indians  are  becoming  self-supporting,  the  others  who 
live  by  the  chase,  owing  to  the  increasing  scarcity  of  fur- 
bearing  animals  and  large  game,  will  require  considerable 
assistance  from  the  Government.  It  may  be  set  down, 
therefore,  as  almost  a  certainty  that  the  expenditure  of 
the  Indian  Department  will  not  for  many  years  be  much 
less  than  $800,000  per  annum.  This  sum  capitalized  at 
three  and  a  half  per  cent,  amounts  to  about  $22,800,000 — 
a  fairly  just  sum  to  pay  for  the  extinguishment  of  the 
Indian  title  to  the  lands  in  the  western  provinces  and 
territories. 

As  has  been  already  stated,  when  the  buffalo  disap- 
peared, provision  had  to  be  made  for  feeding  the  Indians 
of  the  plains  who  had  depended  upon  the  herds  for  food, 
for  clothing,  and  for  lodges.  Ration  houses  had  to  be 
established.  They  met  the  urgent  need,  but  incidentally 
did  not  operate  for  good.  Free  food  does  not  tend  to  the 
uplifting  of  men,  and  when  the  system  was  once 
inaugurated,  it  took  long  and  careful  work  to  bring  about 
its  restriction. 

In  the  Blood  Agency  five  years  ago  450,000  pounds  of 
beef  were  issued  free  to  the  Indians.  During  the  last 
fiscal  year  the  issue  was  only  139,000  pounds.  At  this 


244  THE  INDIANS  OF 

rate  it  will  be  seen  that  the  time  is  not  distant  when  the 
issue  will  be  restricted  to  those  who  are  unable,  through 
age  or  physical  infirmity,  to  provide  for  themselves. 
In  1902  the  free  issue  of  beef  to  the  Peigan  Indians 
amounted  to  216,416  pounds;  in  1906  it  was  reduced  to 
64,564  pounds.  Last  year  there  was  a  further  decrease 
of  1,604  pounds.  This  band  is  now  practically  self- 
supporting,  only  the  aged  and  infirm  being  provided  for. 
On  the  Sarcee  reserve  the  free  rations  continue  to  diminish 
towards  the  vanishing  point.  In  the  Stony  Agency, 
where  the  Indians  turn  their  beef  into  an  abbatoir  to  be 
held  for  their  own  use,  there  were  6,142  pounds  at  the 
credit  of  the  Indians,  and  to  those  who  had  exhausted  their 
supply  there  were  loaned  but  not  given  gratis,  some  1 ,000 
pounds.  On  the  Blackfoot  reserve  the  earning  power 
of  the  Indians  in  the  past  two  years  is  estimated  to  have 
increased  fifty  per  cent.,  and  now,  outside  of  those  inca- 
pacitated for  labour,  they  are  close  to  self-supporting. 

It  was  thought  that  because  he  had  formerly  lived  by 
the  buffalo,  the  Indian  would  take  more  kindly  to  cattle- 
raising  than  to  farming  as  a  means  of  livelihood,  but  the 
early  efforts  to  make  him  a  cattle-raiser  were  disappoint- 
ing. The  Indian  rather  thought  that,  like  the  buffalo, 
the  bovine  should  live  without  trouble  on  the  part  of 
man,  and  that  he  should  be  shot  irrespective  of  the  time 
or  the  season,  whenever  appetite  suggested  the  desira- 
bility of  a  meat  supply.  Constant  effort  is,  however, 
now  being  rewarded,  and  the  Indian  is  coming  to  realize 
that  in  cattle-raising,  as  in  every  other  avocation,  work 
is  essential  to  success.  The  live  stock  now  held  by  the 
Indians  of  Manitoba,  Saskatchewan,  and  Alberta  are 
valued  at  about  $1,100,000. 

It  was  difficult  to  induce  the  Indian  to  till  the  soil. 
He  would  put  his  hand  to  the  plough  only  to  quickly 
withdraw  it.  When  game  was  plentiful,  he  would  leave 
the  field  for  the  hunt.  The  scarcity  of  game,  the  pangs 


WESTERN  CANADA  245 

of  hunger,  the  constant  urging  and  teaching  of  the 
officials  of  the  Indian  Department,  and  the  example  of 
white  farmers,  whom  the  Indians  saw  grow  rich  through 
agriculture,  at  length  led  them  to  gradually  make  some 
use  of  the  land  set  aside  for  them.  At  the  beginning  of 
their  farming  ventures,  occasional  failures  so  discouraged 
the  Indians  that  it  was  difficult  to  induce  many  of  them 
to  resume  work,  and  others  continued  reluctantly  the 
tillage  of  the  soil  without  the  will  which  makes  labour 
pleasant  and  profitable.  Now,  however,  a  fair  propor- 
tion know  the  good  results  that  the  earth,  notwith- 
standing occasional  drawbacks,  will  yield  to  cultivation, 
and  after  failure  they  return  to  the  tillage  of  the  soil  with 
hopefulness  and  energy.  There,  of  course,  is  still  much 
to  be  done  before  the  Indians  avail  themselves  to  the 
full  of  the  splendid  agricultural  possibilities  of  most  of 
their  reservations.  But  the  present  results  are  en- 
couraging. According  to  the  last  returns,  the  Indians  of 
Manitoba  have  agricultural  implements  and  vehicles  to 
the  value  of  upwards  of  $71,500,  the  Indians  of  Saskat- 
chewan to  the  value  of  about  $165,500,  and  those  of 
Alberta  to  the  value  of  some  $141,300.  In  the  same 
year  the  Indians  of  Manitoba  harvested  some  83,000 
bushels  of  grain,  the  Indians  of  Saskatchewan  132,000 
bushels,  and  those  of  Alberta  42,448  bushels.  They 
raised  18,659,  18,649,  and  12,353  bushels  of  potatoes  and 
other  roots  respectively. 

The  Blood  Indians,  one  of  the  groups  most  averse  to 
agriculture,  having  a  reserve  in  a  portion  of  southern 
Alberta,  which  long  was  regarded  as  unsuitable  for 
farming,  have  been  moved  by  the  success  of  their  white 
neighbors  to  assay  the  growing  of  fall  wheat.  Out  of 
their  funds  a  complete  steam  plowing  outfit  has  been 
purchased,  and  fifteen  Indians  have  broken  840  acres  of 
land,  600  of  which  is  now  under  wheat,  not  in  a  com- 
munity farm,  but  in  individual  holdings.  They  have 


246  THE  INDIANS  OF 

availed  themselves  of  insurance  against  hail,  and  have 
evinced  an  unlooked-for  interest  in  their  farming  opera- 
tions. Last  fall  these  Indians  shipped  20  car-loads  of 
wheat,  for  which  they  received  $17,832.  The  yield  per 
acre  went  as.  high  as  45  bushels.  Chief  Running  Ante- 
lope, who  a  few  years  ago  scorned  the  man  who  plowed 
and  sowed  and  looked  to  the  harvest  for  return,  had 
from  his  grain-growing  a  cash  balance  of  $1,309  after 
every  debt  was  paid.  One  Indian  had  a  balance  of 
$1,203,  and  another  of  $1,200. 

Fishing  and  hunting  still  form  a  considerable  means 
of  support,  but  it  grows  smaller  as  settlement  advances. 
In  1907-1908  the  estimated  value  of,  the  fishing  and 
trapping  was  in  Manitoba  $51,500  and  $72,491;  in  Sas- 
katchewan $27,751  and  $80,107;  in  Alberta  $5,690  and 
$17,471. 

With  respect  to  the  Indian  population  in  the  Pro- 
vinces and  Territories  embraced  within  the  scope  of  this 
paper,  various  estimates  have  been  formed.  The  first 
official  one,  which  was  made  in  1871,  put  the  Indian 
population  at  20,998.  In  1880  the  population  was 
returned  at  36,185,  and  in  1885  at  43,932,  inclusive  of 
an  estimated  population  of  11,978  in  the  territory  in- 
clusive of  the  Peace  River  basin  and  extending  to  the 
Arctic,  an  estimate  which  has  since  been  found  to  be 
excessive.  The  last  census  was  made  in  1907,  and  with 
some  later  returns  gives  the  following  results : — 

Ontario,  Treaty  3 2,927 

Manitoba  (including  proposed  extension)  11,300 

Saskatchewan     8,043 

Alberta    8,109 

North- West   Territories. .                      ...  7,247 


37,626 
Of  this  number  about  28,732  are  receiving  annuities 


WESTERX  CANADA  -247 

under  treaty.  In  regard  to  their  tribal  character,  these 
•Indians may  be  approximately  classified  as  follows: — 
Crees,  12,249;  Saulteaux,  10,826  ;  Blackfeet  and  their 
kindred  the  Bloods  and  Peigans,  2,465;  Stonies  or 
Assiniboines,924;  Sarcees,203;  Sioux,  1, 029 ;  Chipewyans, 
Beavers,  Slaves,  and  other  tribes  of  the  Athabascan 
nation,  7,430  ;  Esquimaux,  2,500.  It  is  practically 
impossible  with  the  figures  available  to  form  a  correct 
conclusion  as  to  the  ratio  of  increase  or  decrease  in  the 
Indian  population  in  the  West.  It  can  be  safely 
asserted  however  that,  all  things  considered,  the  Indian 
has  not,  as  is  often  stated,  rapidly  disappeared  since 
coming  under  Government  control. 

Before  the  extension  of  Canada's  Indian  policy  to  the 
territory  acquired  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  its  being  policed  by  the  splendid  force  of  the  Royal 
North- West  Mounted  Police,  the  Indians  were  often  re- 
duced by  famine  and  epidemics,  with  which  they  were 
unable  to  cope;  tribal  feuds  and  fights  continued; 
immorality  was  rampant,  and  but  little  account  was 
taken  of  the  female  portion  of  the  bands.  However 
much  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  even  a  greater  measure 
of  good  has  not  been  effected,  credit  must  be  given  for 
what  has  been  achieved,  and  from  what  has  been  done 
the  Indian  Department  can  with  hopefulness  look 
forward  to  the  results  which  a  continuation  of  its  policy 
will  produce.  Inter-tribal  feuds  have  ceased,  polygamy 
•has  been  practically  eliminated,  the  position  of  women, 
and  particularly  of  female  children  has  been  improved, 
and  no  agencies  are  so  potential  as  the  efforts  of  the 
missionaries  and  the  work  of  our  Industrial  and  Board- 
ing Schools. 

It  is  true  that  the  pushing  of  settlement  up  against 
many  reserves,  which  until  the  marked  western  develop- 
•ment  of  recent  years  were  practically  isolated,  has  inten- 
sified the  strain  which  sudden  contact  with  the  settled 


248  THE  INDIANS  OF 

conditions  of  Canadian  civilization  put  upon  the  Indian, 
unprepared  by  his  environment  to  readily  make  tise  of 
the  advantages,  while  avoiding  the  evils  of  the  new 
order.  The  history  of  the  progress  of  civilization  shows 
that  it  often  creates  difficulties  for  those  whom  it  is  des- 
igned to  benefit  before  removing  the  evils  which  it  is 
intended  to  cure.  Where  not  long  ago  Indian  settlements 
could  only  be  reached  by  devious  trails  or  through  the 
bushlands,  railways  have  entered,  and  in  place  of  scatter- 
ed Indian  dwellings,  towns  have  arisen.  With  the  towns 
has  come  the  readier  access  to  intoxicating  liquor,  so 
tempting  to  the  red  man  and  so  destructive  to  all  hope 
of  his  advancement.  One  of  the  greatest  problems  has 
been  to  find  means  to  adequately  cope  with  drunken- 
ness, which,  despite  all  effort,  increases  its  baneful  in- 
fluence among  many  of  the  bands.  And  with  every 
measure  of  increase  in  the  liquor  traffic  goes  a  propor- 
tionate measure  of  immorality.  It  is  consoling,  how- 
ever, to  note  that  among  a  goodly  number  of  the  tribes 
the  liquor  traffic  is  gradually  growing  less,  that  groups 
are  now  noted  for  temperance,  and  that  a  healthier 
moral  condition  has  taken  permanent  form.  It  is  to 
be  remembered,  in  justice  to  the  Indian,  that  cases  of 
dissoluteness  generally  obtrude  themselves  on  the  public 
notice,  while  virtue  quietly  practiced  passes  unobserved. 
Unfortunately  tuberculosis,  which  is  the  scourge  of 
the  white  as  well  as  of  the  red  man,  continues  to  claim 
many  victims  among  the  aborigines.  But  the  Indian 
medical  service,  hampered  though  it  has  been,  is  produc- 
ing beneficial  results.  There  is  a  notion  that  the  ravages 
of  tuberculosis  are  entirely  a  consequence  of  the  change 
from  the  former  roving  life  of  the  Indians  under  tepees 
to  their  now  more  sedentary  conditions  of  existence  and 
to  their  life  in  unsanitary  and  ill-ventilated  dwellings. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  Indian  was  previously  a  victim 
of  the  dire  disease.  The  Indians,  who  followed  the 


WESTERN  CANADA  249 

buffalo  generally  wintered  in  mud-plastered  cabins  with 
flat  thatched  roofs,  with  scarcely  ever  more  than  one 
door,  and  usually  but  one  window.  The  only  means  of 
ventilaton  was  the  open  fireplace  made  of  mud,  but 
this  passed  away  and  stoves  were  introduced,  which  the 
Indian,  like  the  white  man,  preferred  because  of  their 
greater  heating  capacity.  It  is  just  such  of  those  huts 
as  remain  that  continue  to  afford  rich  breeding  grounds 
for  the  germs  of  tuberculosis;  and  it  cannot  be  too 
strongly  insisted  upon  that  step  by  step  with  material 
progress  the  Indians  must  be  led  to  provide  themselves 
with  better  housing.  The  Indian  himself  is  beginning 
to  realize  this,  and,  despite  the  discouraging  ravages 
still  wrought  by  the  dread  disease  of  tuberculosis,  there 
is  reason  to  look  forward  to  the  day  when  the  Indian  will 
be  at  least  as  free  from  this  plague  as  his  more  favored 
white  brother.  And  the  reports  indicate  that  improve- 
ment in  health  as  a  rule  keeps  pace  with  improvement 
in  conditions. 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the  large  expendi- 
ture which  is  being  incurred  for  the  education  of  the 
Indians  in  Western  Canada.  In  Manitoba  there  are  two 
industrial,  nine  boarding  schools,  and  forty-five  day 
schools  ;  in  Saskatchewan  three  industrial,  thirteen 
boarding,  and  nineteen  day  schools  ;  and  in  Alberta 
two  industrial,  nineteen  boarding,  and  nine  day  schools. 
According  to  the  last  complete  reports  there  were  10,308 
pupils  enrolled  in  the  schools,  and  the  average  attend- 
ance was  0,451.  Schools  are  grouped  into  three  classes: 
day  schools,  boarding  schools,  and  industrial  schools.  The 
day  schools  are  a  distinct  class.  Between  the  boarding  and 
industrial  schools  it  is  not  always  easy  to  draw  a  clear 
line  of  demarcation,  for  many  of  the  larger  and  better 
equipped  boarding  schools  provide  a  measure  of  indus- 
trial training  for  the  pupils.  Indeed,  in  every  case  it  is 
insisted  upon  that  as  far  as  possible  some  manual  or 


250  THE  INDIANS  OF 

industrial  training  be  given.1  And  in  the  case  of  the 
'boarding  schools  erected  within  the  last  few  years  at 
Fort  Alexander,  Fort  Frances,  and  Sandy  Bay,  it  was 
specially  arranged  that  means  should  be  provided  for 
giving  the  boys  such  training  as  would  enable  them  to 
take  up  the  tillage  of  the  soil  after  they  had  finished 
their  school  course.  Day  schools  have  never  been  re- 
garded as  very  effective  agencies  of  Indian  education, 
and  indeed  with  the  small  salaries  paid  it  would  scarcely 
be  reasonable  to  look  for  any  large  results.  There  are 
points,  however,  at  which  day  schools  are  capable  of 
.  doing  and  do  effect  good. 

The  work  of  the  class-room  is  not  allowed  to  absorb 
the  whole  time  and  attention  of  the  Indian  boys  and  girls. 
It  is  sought  to  have  the  hand  trained  as  well  as  the  head. 
The  girls  are  taught  household  duties  by  taking  part  in 
the  regular  domestic  work  of  the  schools;  they  learn  to 
cook  meat  and  vegetables  and  to  bake  bread  by  seeing 
such  cooking  done  and  by  helping  thereat.  They  are 
taught  to  care  for  their  clothes,  and  by  example  as  well 
as  precept  are  taught  the  pleasures  as  well  as  the  advan- 
tages of  cleanliness.  The}'  devote  some  time-each  week 
to  sewing  and  mending,  and  their  handiwork  in  this 
direction  has  been  praised  by  many  competent  judges. 
Every  industrial  school  takes  measures  to  train  the  boys 
in  practical  agriculture,  and  in  some  of  the  boarding 
schools  there  are  farming  instructors  who  teach  the 
rudiments  of  farming.  No  attempt  is  made  to  teach 
scientific  farming,  for  the  Indian  has  not  reached  a  stage, 
and  must  not  be  expected  to  for  many  years,  where  he 
can  grasp  the  significance  of  the  chemistry  of  the  soil. 
Effort  is  being  confined  to  measures  designed  to  make 
him  familiar  with  the  handling  of  the  plough,  and  with 
the  sowing  and  reaping  of  the  grain.  Carpentry  and 
blacksmithing  are  also  taught.  It  is  riot,  however, 
aimed  as  a  rule  to  give  such  technical  training  in  these 


WESTERN  CANADA  25  1 

branches  as  would  turn  out  finished  artisans,  but  rather 
-to  make  the  Indian  boy  when  he  leaves  school  competent 
to  do  the  carpentry  work  which  a  handy  white  farmer 
does,  and  to  be  able  to  make  the  ordinary  repairs  to 
implements,  wagons,  and  harness.  Indian  boys  have  in 
one  respect  an  advantage  over  the  ordinary  boy.  As  has 
been  already  stated,  when  the  treaties  were  made,  liberal 
reserves  were  set  aside  for  the  Indians,  and  now  every 
'Indian  boy, when  he  leaves  school  has  awaiting  him  an 
ample  area  of  land,  in  most  cases  very  good,  and  in  all 
cases  cultivable,  upon  which  he  can  at  once  settle  and 
make  a  home. 

Each  year  seems  to  make  the  Indian  more  amenable 
to  the  restrictions  of  school  life,  and  more  ready  to 
benefit  by  the  advantages  afforded.  Indeed,  the  children 
were  not  at  any  time  most  to  blame,  for,  apart  from 
scattered  individual  cases,  they  seemed  to  appreciate 
what  was  being  done  for  them.  Many  of  the  parents, 
however,  suspicious  of  the  new  order  and  preferring  to 
have  their  children  grow  up  like  unto  themselves,  often 
induced  boys  and  girls,  who  had  been  placed  in  the 
schools,  to  desert,  or  in  their  intercourse  with  them  so 
worked  upon  their  minds  as  to  make  school  life  seem 
irksome,  and  rendered  the  children  restive  of  discipline. 

It  would  be  invidious  to  make  comparison  among  the 
several  schools.  The  standing  of  each  can  be  pretty 
correctly  gauged  from  the  particular  reports  which  are 
published  by  the  Department.  An  unbiased  reading  of 
these  reports  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  it  would  be 
difficult  to  find  more  effective  agencies  for  the  uplifting 
of  the  Indian  and  the  placing  of  him  eventually  in  the 
position  of  a  self-supporting  citizen  of  the  country. 
It  is  only  about  one-third  of  a  century  since  the  prin- 
cipal treaties  were  made  with  the  Indians  of  the  plains. 
Though  this  term  is  a  large  proportion  of  man's  allotted 
span,  yet  it  is  but  a  short  period  in  the  evolution  of  a 


252  THE  INDIANS  OF  WESTERN  CANADA 

race.  It  is  a  question  whether  in  the  history  of  abori- 
ginal tribes  the  world  over,  such  progress  towards  civiliza- 
tion can  be  shewn  in  the  same  space  of  time  as  is  indicated 
by  the  foregoing  statistics.  It  has  taken  many  centuries 
to  bring  the  barbarians  of  Europe  up  to  their  present 
state  of  enlightenment;  and  though  industrial  and  other 
education,  the  bath-tub  and  the  flesh  brush  cannot  make 
a  red-man  white,  yet  it  has  been  amply  proved  that  he 
is  capable  in  a  very  few  centuries  of  becoming  the  equal 
of  his  pale-faced  brother. 


THE  GAME  FIELDS  OF  THE  WEST 

By  J.  P.  TURNER, 
Secretary  Manitoba  Game  Protection  Association. 

IN  this  age  of  huge  enterprise  and  great  achievement, 
not  many  of  those  whose  daily  life  draws  them  ever 
deeper  into  the  meshes  of  the  complex  net  of  modern 
commercialism,  ever  pause  in  all  seriousness  to  view 
the  outside  world.  An  age  of  tireless  ambition  and 
splendid  attainment  goes  on  apace  ;  but  in  the  great 
centres  of  population  the  tramp  of  feet  and  clatter  of 
wheels,  the  clang  of  warning  bells,  the  heavy  monotone 
of  ceaseless  traffic,  the  smoke  and  dust  and  grime  have 
blotted  out  from  the  lives  of  many  that  supreme  exhilar- 
ation of  soul  and  body,  that  sense  of  freedom  and  un- 
restraint, to  be  found  only  in  the  breadth  and  sweep  of 
the  great  out-doors. 

There  are  granted  to  us  in  this  life  many  opportunities 
for  honest  diversion  and  pursuit  other  than  in  the  in- 
cessant struggle  for  material  gain  and  to  draw  the  best 
from  the  world  in  all  that  makes  for  moral  and  physical 
uplift  we  must  at  times  turn  our  steps  far  from  the  noisy 
street.  The  lover  of  the  country,  the  sportsman,  the 
naturalist,  in  fact  all  wholesome-minded  citizens,  ir- 
respective of  professional  or  commercial  pursuit,  know 
the  supreme  content  attainable  from  close  mental  and 
bodily  intimacy  with  the  out-door  world.  Words  fail 
to  plead  the  fascinations  of  the  wilds.  The  charm  and 
beauty  of  the  autumn  season ;  the  grandeur  and  sense  of 
freedom;  the  clear  blue  skies;  the  winds  playing  and 
whispering  through  the  nodding  flowers  and  grassy 
billows;  the  shrieking  winter  storms;  the  glory  of  the 
break  of  day  as  the  shadows  slink  away  and  the  sun 


25-i  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

steals  mysteriously  across  the  open;  the  beauty  of  its 
close  as  the  shadows  creep  back,  the  day  slips  away  and 
the  star-lit  night  comes  on — in  such  elements  do  we  find 
that  "something"  which  we  call  the  Spirit  of  the  Wes't. 

In  emerging  from  the  obscurity  of  pioneer  days,  in 
hewing  from  the  primeval  forests  her  first  rude  clear- 
ings, in  sowing  the  seeds  of  settlement  across  her  wide 
untimbered  prairies,  and  in  planting  on  river,  lake  and 
plain  the  foundations  for  great  cities,  the  Canadian 
West  has  maintained  in  her  making  a  wonderous  wealth 
of  wilderness  and  rural  beauty.  The  pen  can  here  com- 
mit to  paper  only  fragmentary  pictures  of  this  Last 
Great  West— a  land  the  very  atmosphere  of  which  must 
be  breathed  to  be  rightly  understood.  And  only  in  brief 
form  can  we  review  amidst  its  natural  environments, 
that  great  game  heritage  so  essentially  a  feature  of  the 
Western  wilds. 

When  the  rugged  shore  lines  of  primitive  America 
first  loomed  before  the  roving  adventurers  of  the  Old 
World,  and  the  eager  crews  scrambled  up  the  lonely 
cliffs  where  wilderness  and  ocean  met,  the  country  fairly 
teemed  with  wild  life.  Innumerable  $  deer  roamed 
through  the  forests  where  now  the  great  business  centres 
of  modern  America  palpitate  with  the  thousands  of  this 
heterogeneous  race;  on  the  open  plateaus  stretching 
inland  from  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  where  wealthy 
country  mansions  now  nestle  amidst  the  conventional 
luxuries  of  their  well-kept  estates,  the  mighty  bison 
raised  his  shaggy  head  to  stare  and  wonder  at  these 
strange  intruders.  When  the  gallant  explorers  of  New 
France  first  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  now  the 
main  artery  of  the  Dominion's  commerce,  they  found 
the  wapiti  living  where  to-day  the  very  mention  of  its 
name  arouses  only  a  blank  stare  among  the  traditional 
country  folk.  The  Puritan  of  later  date,  if  hungry, 
shouldered  his  gun  and  disappeared  beyond  the  clear- 


OF  THE  WEST  .  ''  255; 

ing  to  return  shortly  with  a  fat  turkey.  Along  the 
country  of  the  present  eastern  States,  the  heath-hen,  •. 
prototype  of  the  western  "chicken,"  rose  in  coveys 
before  the  traveller's  approach;  and  twice  a  year  from 
north  to  south  and  east  to  west,  the  sky  was  darkened  with 
myriad  hosts  of  pigeons  bound  to  and  from  their  northern 
breeding  grounds.  The  bison  soon  turned  his  bowed 
head  westward,  never  to  return,  and  massing  in  his 
fabled  herds  beyond  the  Mississippi,  began  his  brief 
struggle  for  existence  against  the  advancing  hordes  of. 
Europe.  The  wapiti  or  elk  was  assailed  on  all  sides  and 
driven  to  the  wildest  corners  of  the  West.  The  turkey 
now  lingers  apprehensively  in  the  scattered  brush-lands 
of  his  last  retreats;  the  heath-hen  has  long  since  ceased 
to  sound  her  booming  call  across  the  uplands ;  and  the 
pigeon  has  become  a  mere  memory  of  the  past. 

Moving  rapidly  from  east  to  west  this  stupendous 
elimination  of  wild  life  in  America  has  been  both  melan- 
choly and  relentless,  yet  with  few  exceptions  the  finest 
game  animals  and  birds  of  the  northern  continent  still 
find  room  and  tolerable  protection  in  the  Great  North- 
West.  The  bison  will  never  again  roam  at"  large  over 
the  huge  prairie  ocean  as  in  bygone  days.  Empire- 
building  has  been  of  far  greater  importance  than  the 
preservation  of  a  million  or  so  of  wild  cattle;  but  for 
long  years  to  come  the  moose  and  wapiti,  caribou,  prong- 
buck,  deer,  mountain  sheep  and  goat,  and  all  the  long 
list  of  feathered  game  will  here  survive  civilization's 
encroachment  if  but  reasonably  protected. 

Over  the  north-esatern  half  of  Manitoba  and  out 
beyond  the  Saskatchewan  country  there  lies  in  marked 
contrast  to  the  Great  Prairie  of  the  Canadian  West, 
which  sweeps  from  the  Red  River  to  the  foothills  of  the 
Rockies,  a  vast,  thinly-settled  forest.  Here,  far  from 
the  steel-shod  roads  of  commerce  and  the  little  frontier- 
towns,  lies  the  wilderness;  and  though  showing  the 


256  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

ravages  of  forest  fires  and  the  bite  of  the  woodman's 
axe,  it  still  defies  the  destroyer's  hand  and  holds  aloof 
the  persistent  tread  of  settlement.  Here  'in  one  of  the 
finest  game-lands  of  modern  time  the  mighty  moose  and 
lordly  wapiti  still  live  and  thrive.  Across  the  huge 
prairie  ocean  of  the  West  so  recently  the  pasture  land 
of  countless  herds  of  buffalo,  where  innumerable  towns 
have  risen  as  tho'  by  magic  above  the  ruin  of  trading 
post  and  Indian  camp,  and  where  thousands  of  home- 
seekers  have  flocked  in  the  feverish  race-movement  from 
the  East,  leagues  upon  leagues  of  rolling  prairie  as  vir- 
ginal and  wild  as  ever  filled  the  human  vision  yet  re- 
main, where  the  fleet-footed  prong-buck  or  antelope 
lives  as  in  the  frontier  days.  Far  away  in  the  heart 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  the  sun-kissed  fields 
of  perpetual  snow  lie  above  the  timber  belts  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  continent,  and  where  the  mountain 
streams  trickle  down  the  long  defiles  to  surge  eastward 
in  majestic  rivers  to  the  plains,  midst  wild  sanctuaries 
of  crag  and  ledge,  dwell  flocks  of  mountain  sheep  and 
goats.  Westward  from  the  Great  Lakes  and  northward 
across  Keewatin  and  Mackenzie  to  the  barren  Lands, 
lies  the  home  of  the  caribou,  and  everywhere  throughout 
the  length  and  breadth  of  the  West  are  scattered  tracts 
of  forest,  marshland  and  prairie,  so  prolific  of  wild  life 
as  to  baffle  description. 

The  vast,  natural  range  of  the  moose  occupies  the 
forest  regions  of  the  northerly  half  of  North-America 
from  coast  to  coast,  with  the  chief  exceptions  of  por- 
tions of  British  Columbia  and  most  of  the  country  con- 
tiguous to  Hudson  Bay.  Assisted,  not  only  by  its 
superior  cunning  and  capabilities  of  self -protection,  but 
by  the  impenetrable  nature  of  its  forest  home  this  giant 
deer  can  be  said  to  have  held  its  own  against  the  white 
man 's  lust  for  killing.  But  next  to  the  bison,  the  wapiti 
has  suffered  more  than  any  American  big  game,  and 


OF  THE  WEST'  257 

though  it  once  roamed  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific 
and  from  New  Mexico  to  the  valley  of  the  Saskatchewan, 
the  most  easterly  portion  of  its  range  now  lies  in  Mani- 
toba, where  with  the  exception  of  north-western  Wyom- 
ing it  is  probably  more  plentiful  than  in  any  other  part 
of  the  continent. 

In  the  Avoods  of  Maine  and  New  Brunswick,  the  moose 
is  hunted  in  a  manner  planned  to  ensure  the  taking  of 
either  trophies  or  vension  with  the  least  possible  ex- 
ertion upon  the  hunter's  part;  and  to  be  successful 
the  .hunter  requires  no  knowledge  of  the  animal  nor 
need  he  move  himself  to  unusual  exertion,  other  than 
to  shoot  at  the  right  spot  when  the  guide  has  ' '  called ' ' 
the  quarry  within  easy  range.  But  in  penetrating  the 
forests  of  the  North- West,  the  hunter  meets  with  the 
grandest  and  wildest  conditions  of  the  hunt  and  must 
depend  for  success  almost  entirely  upon  his  own  skill 
and  endurance.  Here  in  the  sublimity  of  the  winter 
forest  the  chase  narrows  down  to  tracking  or  stalking 
and  even  though  no  more  than  a  fleeting  glance  of  moose 
be  seen  in  a  day's  tramp,  Nature  will  simply  reward 
him  who  loves  her  for  her  own  sake  rather  than  for  a 
set  of  antlers  on  the  wall.  Penetrate  the  timbered 
country  almost  where  you  will  and  you  will  find  moose 
tracks  leading  seductively  away  into  the  forest  aisles. 
Here  you  will  find  nature  running  riot  in  a  bewildering 
chaos  of  muskeg  and  ridge,  rock  and  swamp— in  summer 
an  endless  sea  of  green,  palpitating  with  wild  life;  in 
winter  a  huge,  frozen  solitude.  Tangles  of  forest  growth 
hedge  you  in  on  all  sides.  Deep-furrowed  heaps  of 
storm-tossed  trunks  lie  piled  in  countless  confusions  of 
decay,  while  from  the  tangled  roots  and  wreckage  under- 
neath the  young  straight-stemmed  forest  of  second 
growth  springs  up.  Or  where  the  forest  fire  has  swept 
along  bare,  sullen  wastes  of  blackened  tamaracs  rear 
their  branchless  tops  above  the  swamps.  Here  and 


258  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

there  between  the  dense  belts  of  forest  lie  broad,  park- 
like  ridges,  over  which  the  jack-pines  grow  planted  and 
spaced  off  by  Nature's  hand  with  wonderful  exactness. 
Groves  of  poplar  and  birch,  hazel  and  willow  thickets, 
tamarac  and  cedar  swamps  spread  away  in  endless 
succession  towards  the  barren  tundras  of  the  North.  Such 
is  a  rough  description  of  the  moose  country  of  the  West. 
When  winter  has  tightened  the  forest  land  beneath  a  rigid 
grip  of  snow  and  ice,  the  camp  is  made.  Robbed  of 
the  charm  of  other  seasons  the  frozen  wilds  yet  have  a 
beauty  of  their  own  and  the  very  spirit  of  the  West 
instils  the  hunt.  The  impulse  to  move  on  and  into  the 
heart  of  the  whitened  world  stirs  stout  hearts  and  limbs 
to  tireless  action.  The  strange  traceries  of  the  wood's 
creatures  in  the  snow;  the  frost-tanged  air;  the  long 
and  patient  stalk ;  the  exultant  kill  and  at  last  the  ruddy 
glow  and  comfort  of  the  little  camp — from  such  features 
of  the  hunt  do  we  reap  for  future  years  a  harvest  of 
pleasant  memories  from  the  past. 

Though  found  in  Manitoba  and  less  frequently  across 
the  northern  portions  of  Saskatchewan  and  Alberta, 
the  wapiti  is  of  necessity  more  fastidious  in  its  choice 
of  surroundings  and  more  local  in  its  distribution  than 
the  moose.  Though  most  of  the  herds  now  existing 
are  found  in  mountains  or  hill-country,  it  roamed  freely 
over  the  Western  plains  ere  it  was  forced  to  seek  refuge  in 
the  wildest  and  most  inaccessible  retreats.  Owing  to 
its  gregarious  habits  and  the  comparatively  open  char- 
acter of  much  of  its  Western  range,  it  had  little  to  protect 
it  against  the  ruthless  warfare  waged  upon  it  in  the 
winning  of  the  West  ;  and  to  the  fact  that  it  will  adapt 
itself  and  thrive  under  widely  different  conditions,  can 
thanks  alone  be  given  that  it  has  not  followed  in  the 
bison's  wake.  It  is  the  most  imposing,  the  stateliest,  and 
the  grandest  type  of  all  the  antlered  tribes  on  the  earth 
and  like  a  defeated  remnant  of  a  once  powerful  clan,  it 


259 

has  chosen  from  its  former  range  of  half  a  continent  the 
wildest,  pine-clad  mountains  and  lofty  uplands  in  which 
to  face  the  final  tragedy  which  would  forever  seal  its 
•doom.  The  moose  loves  the  lower  levels  of  the  dank, 
marsh-strewn  forest  wherein  to  glean  his  fare  of  willow 
browse  and  water-growths,  but  the  royal  wapiti  seems 
to  revel  in  the  grandest  scenery  Nature  has  to  offer. 
Where  the  giant  Redwood  and  Douglas  firs  deluge  the 
rolling  bases  of  the  Rockies  in  perpetual  gloom,  or  where 
the  rugged,  brush-clad  hills  of  Manitoba  rise  in  majestic 
skylines  from  the  plains,  the  wapiti  has  found  the  last 
wild  strong-holds  of  his  race. 

Not  so  long  ago  but  that  many  can  recall  the  time,  the 
wapiti  was  to  be  met  with  almost  anywhere  in  the  wooded 
tracts  of  the  Canadian  West.  In  the  Turtle  Mountains 
and  the  Cypress  Hills  along  the  American  boundary, 
in  the  foothills  of  Alberta,  and  through  the  cotton-wood 
belts  of  the  western  river-bottoms  it  was  plentiful  up 
to  the  late  '70's.  But  it  is  now  only  to  be  found  in 
several  localities  along  the  northern  outskirts  of  its 
former  range.  In  the  wild  area  between  Lakes  Winnipeg 
and  Manitoba  it  is  plentiful ;  over  the  hills  of  the  Riding 
and  Duck  Mountains  in  north-western  Manitoba  large 
scattered  herds  still  roam;  and  across  northern  Sas- 
katchewan and  Alberta  and  into  the  valleys  of  the 
Rockies  small  numbers  wander  restlessly  back  and  forth. 

All  that  has  been  written  and  told  of  the  far-famed 
stag-hunting  of  the  Scottish  Highlands  or  of  the  wild 
adventure  of  moose-hunting  in  the  American  forest, 
can  not  excel  in  point  of  interest  or  adventure  the  ele- 
ments which  surround  the  hunting  of  this  noble  deer. 
True,  one  may  stumble  upon  it  at  times  under  circum- 
stances sweet  to  the  meat-hunter's  heart;  but  under 
normal  conditions  no  game  the  world  over  is  more 
worthy  of  the  practiced  skill  of  the  clean-minded  sports- 
man. Now  a  frequenter  of  uplands  and  timbered  ridges 


260  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

it  leads  the  hunter  into  the  midst  of  the  wildest  corners 
of  the  West  and  extols  a  tribute  of  unfaltering  persever- 
ance and  Avood-craft  from  him  who  would  follow  it 
unaided  into  its  wild  retreats. 

In  the  wooded  regions  of  the  North- West  frequented 
by  sportsmen  probably  more  uncertainty  attaches  to 
the  hunting  of  the  caribou  than  to  that  of  any  other  deer. 
In  the  fur  country  of  the  far  North  the  barren  ground 
caribou  presents  an  almost  ridiculously  easy  object  of 
pursuit  during  its  bi-annual  migrations  to  and  from  the 
bare  coast-lines  of  its  Arctic  home ;  but  the  larger  wood- 
land caribou  of  lower  latitudes  is  an  almost  constant 
sojourner  of  the  great  moss-grown  muskegs  and  is  more 
difficult  of  pursuit  and  approach.  From  Newfoundland 
to  Alaska  the  caribou,  or  American  reindeer,  is  found 
in  an  almost  hopeless  diversity  of  species;  but  much 
as  the  individuals  from  one  locality  may  differ  in  weight, 
color  and  character  of  antlers,  from  those  of  another, 
there  seems  little  necessity  to  sub-divide  them  beyond 
the  two  general  types.  In  Western  Canada  the  wood- 
land caribou  is  found  in  the  low,  coniferous  regions  of 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  thence  northward  beyond  Lake 
Winnipeg,  where  its  range  gradually  overlaps  that  of 
the  barren  ground  species,  and  westward  into  British 
Columbia.  In  comparison  to  other  deer  it  possesses  a 
strange  perversity  of  character  and  habits.  Its  favorite 
food  consists  of  the  dry,  astringent  mosses  that  clothe 
the  muskegs  and  festoon  the  trees;  with  its  razor-edged 
hoofs  and  slithering  gait  it  is  at  ease  upon  the  barest 
ice;  hair  covers  its  broad,  bovine  muzzle;  and  the  female 
annually  grows  a  set  of  antlers.  Ever  restless  and  on 
the  alert  the  caribou  of  Manitoba  and  New  Ontario  is. 
no  easy  prey  for  the  most  seasoned  hunter;  and  as  it 
rarely  stays  long  in  one  locality  but  continually  moves 
in  small  travelling  herds  from  one  treeless  savanna  to 
another,  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  overtake.  On 


OF  THE  WEST  261 

the  mountain  sides  it  is  more  easily  approached  by  stalk- 
ing, and  as  the  traveller  proceeds  northward  he  will 
find  it  correspondingly  easier  to  bring  to  his  rifle. 

Across  the  plains  from  Montana  to  the  valley  of  the 
Battle  River  and  from  the  Elbow  of  the  Saskatchewan 
to  the  foothills  of  the  mountains  the  antelope  or  American 
prong-buck,  is  still  tolerably  plentiful.  Barring  the 
buffalo,  no  animal  claimed  more  attention  from  those 
whose  fortunes  led  them  hither  in  the  frontier  days; 
and  upon  this  fleet-footed  dweller  of  the  open  wastes 
the  traveller  of  the  early  West  relied  much  for  his  daily 
fare.  It  has  long  since  ceased  to  provide  a  staple  neces- 
sity, but  it  still  clings  tenaciously  to  the  treeless  slopes 
of  the  open  country  and  with  surprising  resourceful- 
ness continues  to  elude  civilization's  intrusion.  Though 
it  has  learned  many  of  the  white  hunter's  ways  and  the 
possibilities  of  the  modern  rifle,  the  mode  of  hunting 
it  has  changed  little  with  the  lapse  of  time.  Riding 
away  from  the  last  vestige  of  settlement  the  hunter 
scans  the  sky-lines  and  valleys  before  him  till  a  band 
of  antelope  appear  in  the  far  distance.  Then  begins 
a  long  and  not  always  successful  stalk  under  the  cover 
of  surrounding  crests  and  coulees  and  as  the  location 
of  the  animals  is  approached  the  hunter  dismounts  and 
stealing  cautiously  to  the  top  of  a  commanding  rise 
prepares  to  open  fire  on  the  unsuspecting  herd  just 
beyond.  But  to  his  dismay  he  will  more  often  reach 
his  point  of  vantage  only  to  catch  a  fading  vision  of 
his  intended  quarry  as  the  herd  goes  sailing  away  be- 
yond the  succeeding  hill  tops.  Returning  to  his  pony 
he  resumes  the  hunt,  working  over  the  long  rises  and 
depressions  of  undulating  pasture,  often  following  the 
old,  deep-cut  buffalo  trails  which  wind  away  towards 
the  distant  lakes  and  watered  hollows  in  the  plains 
Perhaps  he  amy  come  unexpectedly  over  the  brow  of 
a  hill  and  get  an  unlooked-for  shot  at  the  fleeing  form 


262  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

of  some  old  buck,  who,  wandering  off  alone,  has  loitered 
here  to  enjoy  a  quiet  siesta  on  a  sunny  slope;  or  again 
sighting  a  distant  band  he  may  repeat  the  long,  cir- 
cuitous stalk  with  happier  results.  Such  hunting  car- 
ries the  rider  into  the  very  heart  of  the  Western  plains. 
Some  would  say  that  imagination  could  not  picture  a 
more  dreary  aspect  of  land  and  sky ;  but  others  recognize 
a  peculiar  attraction  and  charm  in  this  naked  space 
and  immensity  which  rolls  away  into  the  blue  distances 
like  the  halted  upheaval  of  an  ocean. 

Of  all  American  deer  the  white-tail  is  the  least  effected 
by  settlement  and  the  most  general  in  its  distribution. 
It  is  by  nature  a  frequenter  of  tangled  brush  lands  and 
wooded  valleys  and  strange  to  say,  it  is  more  often  met 
with  in  the  belts  of  wild,  scrub-country  bordering  on 
the  settlements  than  in  the  deep  forests  frequented  by 
the  caribou  or  moose.  It  responds  readily  to  protective 
mesaures,  adapting  its  ways,  like  the  stag  of  England 
and  Scotland  to  semi-domestication  if  necessary,  and 
thus  it  is  to-day  the  typical  big  game  of  Eastern  Canada 
and  the  southern  and  eastern  States.  It  flourishes 
under  a  host  of  different  names  from  Mexico  to  Manitoba 
and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is 
the  ' '  red  deer ' '  of  the  lower  Canadian  and  Ontario 
woods,  the  "Virginia  deer"  of  the  eastern  South,  the 
"jumping  deer"  of  Manitoba  and  the  Canadian  West, 
and  elsewhere  the  bearer  of  almost  endless  misnomers 
fashioned  from  the  whims  and  fancies  of  its  pursuers. 
Thousands  upon  thousands  of  white-tails  annually  fall 
to  the  rifle  in  the  older  hunting  grounds  of  Canada  and 
the  States,  but  in  the  North- West  where  larger  or  more 
valued  game  demands  the  hunter's  attention  it  is  little 
sought  for,  and  in  Manitoba  at  least  is  rapidly  increasing 
The  favorite  mode  of  hunting  it  in  Eastern  Canada  and 
the  States  is  by  hounding,  the  dogs  doing  the  actual 
hunting  while  the  shooter  takes  his  stand  on  some  likely 


OF  THE  WEST  263 

run-way  and  by  dint  of  patience  and  indifferent  sports- 
manship awaits  results.  In  the  West  hounds  are  rarely 
if  ever  employed,  and  never  legally,  and  much  the  same 
rules  must  be  followed  in  pursuing  it  as  in  moose  or 
elk-hunting.  No  deer  is  more  secretive  and  graceful 
in  its  movements  than  the  little  whitetail,  no  game  knows 
better  how  to  tangle  and  elude  the  hunter,  and  by 
doubling  and  circling  back  and  forth  in  a  small  area  of 
brushland,  no  animal  will  leave  a  trail  so  intricate  and 
confusing  by  which  to  baffle  its  pursuers. 

The  mule-deer  or  black-tail  is  typically  a  deer  of  the 
West  and  like  the  wapiti  has  rapidly  disappeared  from 
many  localities,  owing  to  the  open  character  of  its  haunts. 
It  shuns  the  low-lying  valleys  and  thickets  in  preference 
for  broken  and  exposed  hill  country  or  mountain  sides, 
and  being  sometimes  curious  to  a  fault  upon  the  ap- 
proach of  danger,  and  unable  to  employ  the  scanty 
growths  of  its  favorite  uplands  in  eluding  detection, 
it  often  presents  a  comparatively  easy  mark  to  the 
practiced  rifle-shot.  Through  the  Canadian  West  the 
name  "jumping  deer"  is  commonly  applied  to  it  also, 
and  with  more  reason  as  its  stiff-legged  and  almost 
awkward  motions  when  running  bear  rude  contrast  to 
the  white-tail's  symmetrical  leaps  and  bounds.  It  is 
widely  distributed  over  various  portions  of  the  West 
and  across  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The 
hunter  who  picks  up  the  black-tail's  track  on  a  clear 
morning  in  early  winter  and  hopes  ere  night-fall  to  bring 
it  to  bay  must  be  keenly  alert  and  ready  to  act  quickly 
in  spite  of  the  animal's  shortcomings  in  habits  and  sur- 
roundings. In  most  cases  he  will  be  led  away  over 
bare  hill-tops,  through  gullies  and  broken-  ground,  out 
across  park-like  expanses  and  occasionally  into  brush- 
checked  creek-bottoms;  and  when  least  expected  the 
erect  ears  and  antlers  will  suddenly  appear  before  him 
either  outlined  in  bold  relief  upon  some  rising  knoll  or 


204  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

blended  in  a  patch  of  grey  and  brown  amidst  the  tangled 
woods.  Then  must  the  eye  and  finger  act  together  in 
ready  aim,  for  with  the  first  mis-directed  shot  the  deer 
has  vanished  and  the  disappointed  hunter  relinquishes 
the  chase,  ravenously  hungry  and  exhilerated  from  the 
hunt,  but  minus  other  reward  for  his  long  and  tedious 
tramp. 

To  seek  the  wild  creatures  of  the  mountain  tops  the 
hunter  leaves  the  great  alluvial  plains,  passes  the  in- 
tervening foothills,  plunges  into  the  depths  of  canyons 
and  timbered  valleys,  and  after  days  of  toil  toward  the 
pinnacles  of  the  continent,  assails  a  land  of  sky  and 
glacier  far  above  the  world.  Here  from  the  wing-point 
of  the  eagle  the  eye  falls  upon  a  thousand  varied  scenes 
staged  in  terrible  immensity  and  chaotic  grandeur;  and 
here  on  the  rugged  back-bone  of  the  West  where  the 
foot  of  man  but  seldom  treads,  are  found  the  dizzy  pas- 
tures of  the  mountain  sheep  and  goat. 

As  compared  with  trie  Rocky  Mountain  big-horn,  the 
mountain  goat  is  a  dweller  in  the  most  exposed  and  un- 
protected elevations.  In  places  where  no  other  creature 
may  follow  and  at  which  man  might  well  shudder  in  the 
bare  thought  of  reaching,  the  white  goat  of  the  Rockies 
is  as  much  at  ease  as  the  seafowl  on  her  wind-swept 
crags.  Along  the  narrowest  of  overhanging  ledges 
where  the  smallest  crevices  or  irregularities  in  the  moun- 
tain sides  often  afford  the  only  footholds,  it  will  pass  with 
sure-footed  precision,  cropping  the  protruding  tufts 
of  vegetation  as  it  goes.  Rarely  does  this  uncouth 
denizen  of  the  mountain  tops  descend  to  the  timber 
belts  or  valleys,  but  contented  and  at  home  it  dwells 
amidst  the  wide  snow-capped  slopes  and  frowning  cliffs, 
serenely  oblivious  of  the  world  beneath. 

The  big-horn  roams  the  upper  levels  where  the  great 
slides  and  glacier  beds  have  seared  the  mountains  and 
left  their  time-worn  pathways  down  the  rocky  wastes, 


OF    THE    WEST 

or  wandering  to  the  fringes  of  the  stunted  forest  that 
struggles  upward  from  the  valleys,  it  seeks  protection 
from  the  bleak  seasons  on  the  heights  above.  Stout- 
hearted and  rugged  must  be  the  man  who  would  hunt 
the  big-horn  or  mountain  goat  ;  and  the  supreme  test 
of  human  perseverance  will  be  wrung  from  him  who 
has  set  his  face  to  follow  amidst  the  stupendous 
masses  of  the  Rockies,  this  most  exacting  and  difficult 
of  big-game  hunting  in  the  West. 

Far  away  in  the  semi-tropical  bayous  and  lagoons 
bordering  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  where  the  sun  pours 
out  his  latent  heat  amidst  the  winter  clouds,  where  the 
dull  rumble  of  the  surf  along  the  sand-ribbed  beaches 
lulls  to  sleep  the  drowsy  world  of  marsh-strewn  waters, 
there  rests  in  quiet  content  a  vast  host  of  feathered 
life.  One  lazy  day  succeeds  another,  the  sun  mounts 
higher  in  the  heavens,  a  strange  restlessness  moves 
across  the  waters  and  lifting  with  the  south  winds  from 
the  Gulf  long  streams  of  noisy  wildfowl  move  across 
the  sky.  The  winter  wanes  upon  the  prairies  of  the 
West;  with  crush  and  turmoil  the  rivers  break  their 
icy  bonds;  beneath  the  crooning  winds  the  tumbled 
drifts  of  snow  shrink  and  sink  away ;  little  lakes  awaken 
'midst  a  thousand  widening  pools;  frogs  chant  their 
endless  chorus  from  the  sodden  fields;  and  in  the  silent 
watches  of  the  night  the  sound  of  hurrying  wildfowl 
bound  to  their  northern  haunts  heralds  the  coming 
spring.  Day  after  day  and  through  the  frosted  nights 
the  winnowing  of  beating  wings  goes  by,  and  every  lake 
and  lowland  marsh  and  slough  stirs  from  its  winter 
sleep. 

To  the  lover  of  the  wilds  the  brief  buoyancy  of  spring 
is  only  rivalled  by  the  painted  witchery  of  the  autumn 
months.  No  other  time  of  the  year  on  the  Western 
prairies,  is  so  alluring  or  so  full  of  nature's  sorceries 
and  attractions  as  that  which  follows  the  fading  summer. 


266  THE  GAME  FIELDS 

It  is  the  season  of  ripened  maturity  and  when  the  wild 
fowl  rise  from  their  vast  nursery  of  the  north  to  return 
to  the  bays  and  marshlands  of  their  southern  home, 
the  sportsman  turns  afield  with  dog  and  gun.  As  the 
Indian  summer  draws  her  hectic  glow  across  the  dying 
year  and  the  night-frosts  deck  the  lowlands  in  their 
robes  of  brown,  the  muffled  echoes  of  the  hunt  sound 
far  and  wide  across  the  prairies.  Peculiarly  attractive 
is  a  morning  on  the  great  duck  marshes.  The  first 
pink  flush  of  dawn  creeps  up  the  eastern  sky,  transform- 
ing the  cold,  limpid  waterways  to  sinuous-colored  reaches 
that  interlace  in  all  directions  the  endless  growths  of 
reeds  and  sedge.  To  westward  the  vast  levels  of  marsh 
lie  dark  and  sullen  beneath  the  lingering  coverlet  of 
night;  and  the  morning  star  low-hung  upon  the  sky, 
grows  pale  before  approaching  day.  Preceding  the  first 
faint  signs  of  dawn,  no  sounds  seem  to  mar  the  expectant 
silence  of  the  lonely  waters;  and  over  the  lowlands  and 
marshes  there  floats  a  penetrating  chill.  As  the  sun- 
rise steals  out  across  the  sleeping  world  of  swamp,  the 
sounds  of  restless  wildfowl  spread  in  all  directions,  and 
the  clammy  night-mists  lift  and  vanish  from  the  marshes. 
A  cold  breeze  springs  up,  rustling  through  the  withered 
marsh-growths;  ruffling  the  dormant  waters  into  little 
waves  that  lap  among  the  reeds.  As  the  light  increases 
little  flocks  of  ducks  speed  across  the  eastern  sky,  then 
more  flocks,  big  and  small,  in  lines  and  clusters,  then  it 
seems  as  if  a  continuous  army  of  wildfowl  streams  far 
and  near,  and  in  the  thin  cold  air  the  booming  of  the 
guns  rolls  back  and  forth  across  the  marshes. 

When  the  harvest  clothes  the  land  in  realms  of  gold, 
the  prairie  chicken  flocks  to  the  stubbles  of  the  West. 
This  is  the  typical  game  bird  of  the  open  country  and 
is  as  characteristic  of  the  prairies  as  the  bison  formerly 
was  among  the  animals.  It  is  doubtful  if  man's  fancy 
could  conceive  any  grander  game  birds,  or  game  that 


OF  THE  WEST  267 

could  give  more  profound  satisfaction  in  everyway  to 
the  lover  of  dog  and  gun  than  the  two  varieties  of  grouse 
commonly  called  "chicken".  Few  game  birds  the 
world  over  can  boast  of  superior  beauty.  Vigorous 
and  rugged  they  are  fitted  to  withstand  the  severest 
tests  of  winter,  and  as  they  rise  in  covies  from  their 
scanty  shelter  they  offer  easy  wing  shots  to  any  who 
would  seek  change  and  recreation  in  the  wide  freedom 
of  the  prairies. 

Almost  endless  seem  the  haunts  of  small  game.  We 
might  go  on  and  wander  into  the  brushy  uplands  of 
the  ruffed  grouse,  across  the  soggy  snipe  marshes,  over 
the  low-lying  beaches  where  the  shore-birds  gather,  and 
into  a  thousand  wild  corners,  replete  with  life.  Such 
is  the  outside  world,  the  nation's  playground.  By  upland 
arid  meadow,  through  sedge-grown  marshes,  and  into 
the  forest  depths  the  sportsman  turns  his  steps.  Here 
no  cares  nor  worries  born  of  the  inner  world  of  toil 
and  strife  find  place ;  but  round  the  camp  fire  and  in  the 
hunting  lodge  are  found  the  truest  friends,  the  most  last- 
ing friendships,  and  above  all  that  splendid  freedom  and 
health  of  outdoor  life  so  essential  in  the  making  of 
the  West. 


TRANSPORTATION   IN    CANADA 

By  GEO.  H.  HAM.  Esq.,  ' 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company. 

TRANSPORTATION  has  been  a  serious  problem 
in  Canada  from  the  beginning,  as  was  ne- 
cessarily the  case  in  a  country  of  such  enor- 
mous area.  In  early  times,  when  France  was  in 
possession,  the  immigrant  followed  the  rivers. 
First  of  all,  however,  he  crossed  the  Atlantic  in  vessels 
of  200  to  400  tons,  the  voyage  lasting  two  or  three 
months,  with  scurvy  or  typhus  usually  raging  on  board. 
On  entering  the  St.  Lawrence  the  ships  anchored  at  night- 
fall; the  charts  of  the  river  were  imperfect,  and  there 
were  no  lights,  except  here  and  there  a  kettle  of  blazing 
pine-knots  hung  on  a  tree  outside  a  King's  post.  If 
he  did  not  join  the  fur-traders,  the  new  settler  began 
clearing  the  forest  in  some  seigniory,  for  a  feudal  land 
tenure,  based  on  the  Custom  of  Paris,  existed  down  to 
1854.  As  may  be  seen  to  this  day,  the  French  Canadian 
farms  were  very  narrow  and  very  long,  this  mode  of  sub- 
division giving  every  holder  a  frontage  on  the  river, 
bringing  the  people  closer  together,  brightening  their  social 
life  and  affording  them  better  protection  against  the  Iro- 
quois.  The  St.  Lawrence  and  its  affluents  were  the 
channels  of  such  primitive  trade  as  was  carried  on  in  the 
interior.  Commercial  intercourse  with  the  British  and 
Dutch  Colonies  to  the  south  was  prohibited,  although 
many  a  package  of  beaver  was  conveyed  down  Lake 
Champlain  or  the  Kennebec  and  bartered  for  English 
goods.  Vessels  built  at  Quebec  with  the  aid  of  bounties, 
carried  lumber  and  flour  to  the  French  West  Indies  and 
Acadia,  but  the  chief  export  trade,  that  in  peltries,  was 
done  with  France. 


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TRANSPORTATION  IN  CANADA.  269 

In  those  times  the  maritime  nations  of  Europe  were 
seeking  a  short  route  to  Asia.  Jacques  Cartier,  Champ- 
lain,  and  many  others  supposed  from  what  the  Indians 
told  them  that,  if  they  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
middle  of  the  Continent,  they  would  meet  waters  flowing 
the  other  way,  down  which  they  could  sail  into  the 
Oriental  seas.  So  sure  were  they  that  this  would  turn 
out  to  be  the  true  North-West  passage,  that  when  some 
of  them  got  to  Lachine,  a  few  miles  west  of  Montreal, 
they  fancied  they  were  on  the  high  road  to  China  and 
accordingly  gave  it  that  name.  Two  centuries  later  it 
has  become  possible  to  reach  China  via  Canada,  not, 
however,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  but  by  rail  as  far  as 
Vancouver.  Although  France  has  lost  her  North  Ameri- 
can Empire,  the  names  of  her  missionaries  and  explorers 
will  live  forever  in  the  history  of  the  Continent.  They 
discovered  the  Mississippi,  Lake  Superior  and  the  Red 
River  of  the  North;  established  posts  where  Chicago, 
Detroit  and  other  Western  American  cities  now  stand, 
for,  as  one  of  them  said,  they  had  a  remarkable  instinct 
for  good  situations,  and  did  much  then,  and  later,  for 
the  Canadian  North- West.  We  owe  not  a  little  to  those 
intrepid  men,  who  sallied  forth  into  the  wilderness  with 
no  selfish  motives,  but  with  the  object  of  extending  the 
King's  dominions  and  promoting  the  glory  of  God. 

When  the  colonisation  of  Upper  Canada  commenced 
under  British  rule,  the  immigrant  in  his  Western  journey 
still  followed  the  water  routes,  for  there  were  as  yet  no 
roads.  The  canoe  or  Durham  boat  containing  his  worldly 
effects  had  to  be  dragged  by  oxen  through  forty  miles  of 
rapids  between  Montreal  and  Kingston,  or,  where  that 
was  impossible,  portages  had  to  be  made  through  the 
forest.  The  cost  of  procuring  fresh  supplies  and  of  ship- 
ping produce  to  market  was  enormously  enhanced  by 
the  difficulties  of  moving  them  up  and  down  rivers  in 
their  natural  condition.  It  soon  became  apparent  that, 


270  TRANSPORTATION 

if  the  country  was  to  make  any  substantial  progress,  it 
would  be  necessary  to  build  canals  at  various  points  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  principal  tributaries.  The  local 
advisers  of  the  Imperial  Government  favoured  the  pro- 
ject, and,  though  they  may  have  attached  more  im- 
portance to  its  military  than  to  its  commercial  aspect, 
Canadians  are  greatly  indebted  to  them  for  the  impulse 
they  gave  and  the  substantial  aid  they  furnished  to  the 
movement.  Between  1820  and  1850  the  main  rivers 
were  tolerably  well  equipped  with  canals,  locks  and 
dams,  most  of  which  have  since  been  enlarged,  to  meet 
the  growth  of  traffic.  The  Lachine  Canal  'was  the  first 
to  be  built,  but  the  most  important  was  the  Welland. 
Many  of  the  United  Empire  Loyalists  who  came  to 
Canada  at  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution,  entered 
by  way  of  Niagara,  and  gradually  pushed  their  settle- 
ments into  the  Western  Peninsula  of  the  Province.  Their 
surplus  supplies  could  not  be  conveyed  to  Montreal 
within  a  shorter  period  than  six  weeks  to  two  months. 
(It  may  be  interesting  to  recall  that  the  ocean  rate  on 
general  merchandise  from  Liverpool  to  Montreal  was 
£1.  2.  6  per  ton.  while  for  the  next  400  miles  westward, 
by  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  was  £6.  12.  9.)  The  Peninsula 
was  extremely  fertile,  and  whole  colonies  of  settlers 
were  flocking  in  from  the  United  Kingdom.  But  unless 
a  canal  were  cut  through  Canadian  soil  from  Lake  Erie 
to  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of  27  miles,  to  overcome  the 
obstacle  to  navigation  presented  by  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
it  was  clear  that  its  trade  with  England  would  be  diverted 
from  the  St.  Lawrence  route  to  the  Erie  Canal  and  the 
Port  of  New  York,  a  state  of  affars  which  might  entail 
serious  political  consequences.  The  construction  of  the 
Welland  canal  saved  the  situation,  and  it  soon  became 
a  formidable  competitor  to  the  Erie  canal  for  the  traffic 
of  the  Western  States. 

Such;  in  a  few  words,  was  the  origin  of  the  Canadian 


IN  CANADA  271 

canal  system.  The  canals  on  the  St.  Lawrence  from 
Montreal  to  Lake  Erie  are,  all  told,  70  miles  in  length. 
Those  on  the  Ottawa,  Rideau  and  Richelieu  rivers  and 
Lake  Champlain  are  not  so  long.  It  is  not  easy  to  ascer- 
tain the  first  cost  of  these  canals,  but  the  total  expend- 
iture on  their  construction,  reconstruction  and  upkeep, 
together  with  that  on  inland  harbours,  has  exceeded 
$100,000,000.  Tolls  were  abolished  some  years  ago. 
In  the  United  Kingdom  the  canals  were  built  by  private 
capital,  and  some  have  passed  under  the  control  of  the 
railways.  The  construction  of  the  Welland  canal  was  un- 
dertaken by  private  capital,  but,  fortunately  for  us  and 
fortunately  too  for  the  shareholders,  the  company  had 
to  abandon  the  project.  All  our  canals  without  exception 
are  now  owned  and  operated  by  the  Dominion  Govern- 
ment. For  seven  months  of  the  year  they  render  good 
service  in  keeping  down  rail  rates,  besides  transporting  a 
considerable  tonnage  of  the  bulkier  kinds  of  freight.  The 
"all -water  route"  from  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  by 
the  Welland  canal  to  Montreal  usually  determines  the 
rate  on  wheat  from  the  Canadian  West  to  the  seaboard, 
just  as  the  Erie  canal  does  for  grain  from  Buffalo  to 
New  York. 

The  "all-water  route"  via  the  St.  Lawrence  has  not, 
however,  altogether  fulfilled  its  earlier  expectations.  It 
obtained  a  large  share  of  the  traffic  of  the  Western  States 
thirty  or  forty  years  ago  when  the  wheat-belt  of  the 
continent  lay  round  Lake  Erie  and  Lake  Michigan,  and 
the  grain  was  carried  East  by  small  sailing  vessels,  which 
traversed  the  Welland  and  lower  canals  at  their  leisure 
and  had  nothing  to  fear  from  the  railways  of  the  day. 
Such  conditions  no  longer  prevail.  The  wheat-belt  has 
extended  to  the  Canadian  North- West,  Minnesota  and 
the  Dakotas.  and  the  present  output  there  and  elsewhere 
in  the  West  is  far  in  excess  of  the  output  of  former 
times.  There  are  now  40,000,000  people  in  the  States 


272  TRANSPORTATION 

bordering  on  or  served  by  the  Great  Lakes.  An  im- 
mense traffic  has  arisen  between  Lake  Superior  and  Lake 
Erie,  the  former  sending  down  wheat,  iron  ore,  lumber, 
and  other  commodities,  and  taking  back  coal  and  gen- 
eral merchandise.  Before  the  recent  depression,  over 
50,000,000  tons  of  freight,  valued  at  $550,000,000,  passed 
through  the  locks  at  the  Soo  in  a  single  season,  that  of 
1906.  The  Welland  and  St.  Lawrence  canals  have  a 
depth  of  14  feet,  whereas  between  Lake  Erie  and  Lake 
Superior  there  is  a  20  or  21-foot  channel,  which  has  en- 
abled the  United  States  companies  to  create  a  vast  fleet 
of  steam  vessels,  most  of  which  are  beyond  the  capacity 
of  the  Welland.  Although  Canadian  vessels  are  excluded 
from  the  inland  or  coasting  trade  of  the  United  States, 
our  own  fleet  on  the  Upper  Lakes  is  growing  rapidly; 
but  many  of  our  vessels  are  also  too  large  for  this  canal. 
Some  carry  wheat  to  the  Lake  Erie  end  of  it  and 
"  lighter,  "since  boats  carrying  more  than  75,000  bushels 
cannot  get  through  without  "  lightering,"  whilst  the 
larger  vessels  sail  to  Georgian  Bay  ports,  transfer  their 
cargo  to  the  elevators,  and  steam  back  to  Fort  William 
or  Port  Arthur.  The  grain  is  transported  from  the 
elevators  by  Canadian  railways  to  the  ocean  steamers 
at  Montreal.  In  like  manner,  United  States  steam 
vessels,  of  which  many  are  of  the  tonnage  of  a  modern 
ocean  steamer,  run  from  Duluth  and  Chicago  to  Buffalo, 
and  turn  over  their  grain,  not  to  the  Erie  canal  any 
longer,  but  to  the  railways,  which  haul  it  to  New  York, 
Boston,  or  Baltimore.  Finally,  a  great  deal  of  grain, 
from  Canada  and  the  United  States,  is  now  carried  to 
the  seaboard  from  the  place  of  production  in  the  West 
by  "  all-rail."  This  has  been  rendered  possible  by  the 
improvement  of  road-beds  and  the  employment  of  more 
powerful  locomotives  and  more  capacious  cars.  When 
business  on  the  Upper  Lakes  is  slack,  as  was  the  case 
recently,  Canadian  vessel  owners  on  our  "  all  -  water 


IN  CANADA  273 

route,"  reduce  the  rates  to  Montreal  to  so  low  a  figure 
that  a  deluge  of  United  States  export  grain  goes  to  that 
port,  with  the  result  that  protests  are  heard  from  New 
York.  A  natural  water-way  such  as  that  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  can  never  become  a  negligible  factor  in  trans- 
portation. It  is  worth  noting,  also,  that  the  Canadian 
"  water-and-rail "  routes  to  Montreal  are,  or  can  be  made, 
considerably  shorter  than  the  United  States  "  water- 
and-rail  "  route  to  New 'York.  Our  Georgian  Bay  ports 
are  much  nearer  Duluth  and  Chicago  than  Buffalo  is, 
while  the  rail  journey  from  them  to  Montreal  by  a  new 
branch  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  will  be  80  miles 
less  than  that  from  Buffalo  to  New  York. 

The  State  of  New  York  is  enlarging  the  Erie  canal  to 
allow  of  its  admitting  1,000-tori  barges,  and  various 
canal  schemes  of  a  more  ambitious  character  are  talked 
of  in  the  United  States.  The  Canadian  Government 
contemplates  deepening  the  Welland  canal.  This,  how- 
ever, would  not  be  of  much  avail  unless  the  canals  be- 
low Prescott  were  also  deepened.  Meanwhile  the 
Georgian  Bay  Canal  project,  estimated  to  cost  $100, 
000,000,  is  receiving  support  in  various  quarters,  not- 
ably from  the  districts  where  the  money  would  be  spent. 
Whatever  the  next  few  years  may  bring  forth,  the  Cana; 
dian  people  will  make  any  reasonable  sacrifice  to  ensure 
the  transport  of  Canadian  traffic  by  Canadian  routes. 
Manifestly  it  is  their  interest  to  do  so.  The  old  Roman 
said  that  no  estimate  could  be  formed  of  the  future 
wealth  of  a  district  that  possessed  fifteen  miles' of  olives 
and  vines.  But  what  shall  be  said  of  the  future  of  a 
region  like  the  Canadian  West,  which,  with  a  present 
population  of  a  million,  has  still  250,000,000  acres  of 
black  loam  uncultivated  ?  In  another  generation  it  will 
contain  more  people  than  all  the  rest  of  Canada,  and 
in  time  to  come,  probably  more  than  there  are  to-day 
in  the  Three  Kingdoms.  The  possibilities  of  the  West 


274  TRANSPORTATION 

are  so  great  that  one  can  hardly  exaggerate  the  import- 
ance of  adopting  a  liberal  policy,  which  shall  retain  the 
traffic  all  the  way  from  the  wheat-field  to  Europe  in 
Canadian  and  British  channels. 

No  sooner  had  the  early  canals  been  completed  than  it 
became  necessary  to  undertake  the  construction  of  rail- 
ways in  Upper  and  Lower  Canada.  The  canals  had 
developed  in  some  degree  the  basins  of  the  rivers  and 
lakes.  The  introduction  of  the  locomotive  enabled 
settlers  not  only  to  enter  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  but 
to  pass  into  the  vaster  regions  beyond.  Our  neighbours 
in  the  United  States  began  to  build  railways  in  1830, 
and,  private  capital  being  scarce,  the  Federal,  State  and 
Municipal  Governments,  during  the  next  forty  years, 
voted  liberal  aid  in  money,  land  and  guarantees.  Canada 
followed  their  example,  and,  in  proportion  to  population 
and  resources,  carried  that  form  of  paternalism  to  a 
greater  length.  The  Imperial  Government  gave  initial 
assistance  by  guaranteeing  a  loan  of  $7,500,000.  Can- 
ada's credit  in  England  was  not  good,  for,  after  one  or  two 
local  railways  had  been  built,  a  rebellion  broke  out  over 
the  question  of  Responsible  Government.  Moreover 
the  abandonment  by  England  of  the  policy  of  Protection, 
which  included  the  preferential  treatment  of  Colonial 
exports,  dislocated  our  trade  for  a  time.  One  of  the  first 
railway  surveys  was  that  carried  out  by  Captain  Yule 
of  the  Royal  Engineers,  who  laid  down  a  line  between 
Quebec  and  St.  Andrew's,  in  New  Brunswick,  through 
territory  belonging  at  that  time  to  the  British  Crown. 
Unhappily,  in  1842,  the  Ashburton  Treaty — Lord 
Palmerston  styled  it  the  Ashburton  Capitulation — dep- 
rived Canada  of  the  Aroostook  District,  brought  the 
northern  boundaryof  the  State  of  Maine  to  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and,  when  the  time  came  for 
building  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  necessitated  a  cir- 
cuitous route  to  Halifax  and  St.  John.  At  first  the 


IN  CANADA  275 

Canadian  Parliament  was  disposed  to  establish  Govern- 
ment ownership  of  railways,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of 
enlisting  private  capital;  but  British  money  was  found 
for  the  construction  of  the  Grand  Trunk,  and  Govern- 
ment ownership  remained  in  abeyance  for  a  time. 

The  history  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  is  well  known 
in  England  and  Canada.  The  original  prospectus,  issued 
in  1853,  promised  a  return  of  11//2  per  cent,  per  annum  on 
the  share  capital,  besides  the  stated  interest  on  the  bonds. 
Canada  and  Canadians  were  blamed  for  the  misfortunes 
of  the  road,  but  soms  of  these  were  unavoidable.  There 
was  a  board  in  England  and  another  in  Canada,  but  as 
the  actual  control  was  exercised  from  London,  3,000 
miles  away,  it  is  not  surprising  that  there  was  a  good 
deal  of  waste  in  construction.  The  cost  of  bringing 
in  materials  for  a  pioneer  road  was  excessive  in  those 
days,  and  the  Canadian  Government  did  not  grant  as 
much  financial  assistance  to  the  enterprise  as  had  been 
expected.  Before  the  line  was  completed  the  panic  of 
1857  occurred.  Wheat,  which  during  the  Crimean  War 
of  1854-56  had  realised  $2.50  per  bushel  at  Toronto, 
dropped  to  half  that  figure,  and  there  was  a  tremendous 
collapse  in  land  values.  Immigration  fell  off  and  re- 
mained at  a  low  ebb  for  a  long  time,  the  Western  and 
North-Western  States,  with  their  free  prairie  homesteads, 
being  more  attractive,  even  to  the  native  Canadian, 
than  the  bush  lands  of  Canada.  The  original  line  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  was  fairly  well  constructed,  but  the 
small,  wood-burning  locomotives  and  light  iron  rails  were 
badly  fitted  for  theCanadian  winter.  Subsequently  the 
Canadian  Board  became  involved  in  politics.  In  1862  the 
General  Manager  stated  in  a  letter  to  the  Government 
that  the  cost  of  the  original  line  had  been  £12,000,000 
sterling,  of  which  the  Canadian  Government  had  sub- 
scribed over  £3,000,000.  He  added,  however,  that  the 
company  had  afterwards  been  forced  by  political 


276  TRANSPORTATION 

pressure  to  spend  probably  more  than  £3,000,000  "  in 
constructing  parts  of  the  system,  which,  though  of  ben- 
efit to  Canada,  are,  commercially,  entirely  worthless  and 
only  drags  upon  the  paying  portions  of  the  railway." 
Parliament  blundered  in  fixing  upon  a  gauge  of  5  feet  6 
inches,  when  most  of  the  United  States  roads  had  a  gauge 
of  4  feet  8^3  inches.  As  a  consequence  of  this  through 
traffic  had  to  be  transferred  from  one  car  to  another  at 
the  international  frontier.  This  was  a  painful  chap- 
ter of  railway  history,  and,  in  consequence,  Canadian 
credit  suffered  in  England  for  years.  Portland  in  Maine 
was  selected  as  the  winter  terminus,  simply  because 
there  was  no  access  by  rail  to  the  Canadian  ports  of  St. 
John  and  Halifax,  and,  by  the  Ashburton  Award  the 
short  all-British  route  to  them  had  been  lost.  It  may  be 
added  that  it  was  the  Ashburton  Award  which,  years  af- 
terwards, obliged  the  Canadian  Pacific  to  cut  across  Maine 
on  its  journey  to  St.  John  rather  than  follow  the  longer 
route  on  British  soil;  and  it  is  owing  to  the  Ashburton 
Award  that  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  is  unable  to  reduce 
the  distance  between  Quebec  and  Moncton,  as  traversed 
by  the  Intercolonial,  by  more  than  30  miles.  If,  as  a 
recent  English  writer  puts  it,  "  both  the  Canadian  Pacific 
and  the  Grand  Trunk  proper  desert  the  British  flag  shortly 
after  leaving  Montreal  for  the  Atlantic  seaboard  in 
winter,"  it  is  only  fair  to  indicate  on  whose  shoulders 
the  responsibility  really  lies. 

The  east  -  and  -  west  direction  of  Canadian  lines  is 
imposed  on  them  by  the  configuration  of  the  country, 
and,  in  some  measure,  it  may  be  suspected,  by  the 
American  tariff,  which  taxes  all  Canadian  products 
bound  south  save  those  going  in  bond.  The  Grand 
Trunk  was  carried  east  and  west  that  it  might  serve  the 
settled  districts  in  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley,  and  connect 
Chicago  and  the  Western  States  with  Montreal  and 
Portland.  The  Intercolonial  joins  the  cities  on  the  St. 


IN  CANADA  277 

Lawrence  ta  the  ports  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and 
hence  could  not  run  otherwise  than  east  and  west, 
whilst  the  Canadian  Pacific  was  built  as  a  national  work 
expressly  to  connect  the  newer  Provinces  in  the  West 
with  the  older  ones  in  the  East.  At  the  present  time 
United  States  roads  are  running  spurs  from  south  to 
north  into  the  Canadian  North- West  and  British  Colum- 
bia for  the  purpose  of  diverting  traffic  to  United 
States  ports,  but  so  far  they  have  not  accomplished 
much.  In  his  famous  report  of  1839,  Lord  Durham 
recommended  the  establishment  of  the  bonding  privilege 
between  Canada  and  the  United  States,  which'  was 
brought  about  some  years  later.  Railway  traffic  in  both 
countries  is  left  free  to  follow  the  most  economical  route. 
Goods  for  Canadian  use  reach  Canada  from  Europe  by 
New  York  or  Boston;  a  portion  of  the  surplus  grain  and 
package  freight  of  the  Western  States  is  shipped  to 
Europe  by  way  of  Montreal;  the  Canadian  Pacific  takes 
products  of  the  Pacific  States  to  the  Atlantic  or  to  New 
England,  and,  contrariwise,  carries  New  England  wares 
to  the  Pacific  States;  while  American  railways  handle 
shipments  from  Eastern  to  Western  Canada.  All  this 
intercommunication  goes  on  without  interference  from 
the  Customs  officers  on  either  side  of  the  boundary,  who 
merely  see  that  the  bonded  cars  are  properly  sealed. 
When  this  arrangement — excellent  for  both  countries — 
grew  up  about  1855,  it  was  predicted  that  henceforth 
Canadian  roads  would  all  run  from  north  to  south  in 
order  to  meet  the  American  roads  at  the  boundary,  but 
the  prophecy  was  not  fulfilled.  At  that  time  there  was 
reciprocity  of  trade  with  the  United  States  to  the  extent 
of  a  free  interchange  of  natural  products.  The  treaty 
was  abrogated  by  Congress  in  1866,  and  Canada  forth- 
with set  about  building  up  trade  with  the  United  King- 
dom through  the  use  of  Canadian  railways  and  Canadian 
ports,  which  involved  the  carrying  of  Canadian  produce 


278,  TRANSPORTATION 

from  west  to  east  and  of  British  goods  from  east  to 
west.  The  heavy  American  tariff  on  Canadian  pro- 
ductions has  fired  us  with  the  ambition  to  be  commer- 
cially as  well  as  politically  independent  of  the  United 
States,  and  has  contributed  as  much  as  any  other 
single  agency  to  our  recent  closer  union  with  Britain. 

After  the  Grand  Trunk  came  the  Intercolonial,  which, 
viewed  as  an  experiment  in  Government  ownership  and 
operation,  has  been  disappointing.  True,  the  road  is 
handicapped  by  its  roundabout  route  and  by  being  ex- 
posed to  water  competition  at  almost  every  point.  Its 
rates  in  general  are  low,  its  special  rates  on  Nova  Scotia 
iron  and  steel  bound  west  being  probably  less  than  cost 
of  haul;  while  the  bulk  of  its  local  traffic  consists  of  coal, 
lumber  and  other  rough  commodities  in  the  transport- 
ation of  which  there  is  little  profit.  The  capital  account 
now  stands  at  $87,500,000,  and  no  interest  has  ever  been 
paid  upon  it.  The  system  is  1,450  miles  long.  The  Govern- 
ment has  also  267  miles  of  road  in  Prince  Edward  Island, 
making  over  1,700  miles  in  all  under  its  control.  The 
Island  line  has  never  paid  operating  expenses;  its 
capital  account  is  $8,000,000.  On  both  roads  politics 
play  a  vicious  part,  and  the  Government,  in  despair,  is 
contemplating  their  lease  to  a  company  railway  or 
the  transfer  of  the  management  to  a  commission. 

After  the  Intercolonial,  the  Canadian  Pacific  was  con- 
structed. The  construction  of  a  line  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean  had  been  the  dream  of  enthusiasts 
for  years,  but  did  not  take  bodily  form  till  British 
Columbia  and  the  North  -West  were  admitted  into 
Confederation.  The  Federal  Government  tried  its 
hand  at  building  the  road,  but  in  1881  made  a  contract 
with  the  present  Company,  which  completed  the 
work.  Instead  ,of  dwelling  on  the  success  of  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Company,  a  word  may  be  said  on 
the  development  of  the  West.  Burke,  in  one  of  his 


IN  CANADA.  279 

speeches  on  the  American  Colonies,  spoke  of  their 
export  of  a  few  thousand  quarters  of  breadstuffs  to 
England  as  the  splendid  act  of  "this  child  of  your  old 
age,  which,  with  a  true  filial  piety,  with  a  Roman  charity, 
has  put  the  full  breast  of  its  youthful  exuberance  to  the 
mouth  of  its  exhausted  parent."  At  that  time  the 
American  Colonies  had  been  settled  for  more  than  a 
century.  This  year,  with  an  average  harvest,  the 
Canadian  West,  which  really  was  not  opened  till  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Canadian  Pacific  24  years  ago,  will  export, 
principally  to  England,  not  less  than  15,000,000  quarters 
of  wheat,  to  say  nothing  of  other  grains,  and  probably 
150,000  head  of  cattle.  In  1888  the  City  of  Winnipeg 
received  and  transmitted  by  rail  110,000  tons  of 
goods.  In  1908  the  total  exceeded  2,500,000.  This 
takes  no  account  of  the  traffic  in  grain  and  other  articles 
passing  through  Winnipeg  en  route  to  other  points  east 
and  west,  but  relates  solely  to  the  trade  and  manufac- 
tures of  Winnipeg  itself.  In  1889  the  traffic  on  the 
Central  division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific,  which  extends 
from  Lake  Superior  to  Swift  Current,  through  the  larger 
portion  of  the  wheat-belt,  was  less  than  350,000  tons, 
whereas  last  year  it  exceeded  10,000,000.  Before  the 
Canadian  Pacific  was  built  it  cost  six  shillings,  in  English 
money,  to  transport  a  bushel  of  wheat  from  Winnipeg  to 
Liverpool.  Now  it  costs  nine-pence,  although  the  haul 
by  rail,  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Atlantic,  is  4,500  miles 
long.  The  Canadian  Pacific  has  over  5,000  miles  of 
completed  road  in  the  West,  and  the  Canadian  Northern, 
Great  Northern,  and  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  about  2,000 
more.  In  the  older  districts  no  farmer  is  situated  more 
than  12  or  15  miles  from  a  railway.  Man  for  man,  the 
mileage  is  greater  than  in  Minnesota,  Dakota,  or  any 
other  portion  of  the  United  States ;  an,d  rates  on  wheat 
and  other  commodities  are  as  low  or  lower  than  those  to 
and  from  corresponding  American  points. 


280  TRANSPORTATION 

This  incomparable  region  is  receiving  150,000  immi- 
grants a  year  even  in  these  comparatively  dull  times, 
the  number  from  the  United  States,  who  came  in  1908, 
exceeding  60,000.  Since  1898,  when  the  rush  from  the 
United  States  began  in  earnest,  neighbours  in  the  South 
have  invested  $  300,000,000  in  lands,  stores,  mines, 
cattle-ranches,  lumbering  and  elevators  in  the  Provinces 
of  Alberta  and  Saskatchewan.  British  Columbia  is  also 
becoming  populated,  although  it  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  its  area  is  enormous,  Its  coal,  gold-copper  and 
silver-lead  mines  are  prospering,  its  lumber  trade  has 
grown  to  formidable  proportions,  and  its  fisheries  are  the 
richest  in  Canada,  the  annual  catch  being  now  worth 
more  than  that  of  Nova  Scotia.  Fruit-growing  is  be- 
coming an  important  industry,  and,  when  Vancouver 
Island  is  properly  settled,  is  likely  to  expand  to  great 
dimensions.  The  Canadian  Northern  Railway  has  a 
large  mileage  west  of  Lake  Superior,  and  some  day,  no 
doubt,  will  reach  both  oceans.  The  Grand  Trunk 
Pacific  will  soon  have  to  be  added  to  the  list  of  trans- 
continental railroads.  The  Government  is  building  the 
section,  1,800  miles  long,  between  Moncton  in  New 
Brunswick,  and  Winnipeg,  and  will  lease  it  to  the  Com- 
pany, while  the  Company  is  constructing  from  Winnipeg 
westward  to  Prince  Rupert  on  the  Pacific  coast.  It  has 
been  recently  stated  in  England  that  a  controlling 
interest  in  the  Canadian  Pacific  is  held  in  the  United 
States.  As  a  matter  of  fact  such  holdings  of  Canadian 
Pacific  securities  are  very  small  indeed,  the  bulk  being 
owned  in  England,  Germany  and  Holland. 

The  earliest  statistics  of  railway  operations  in  Canada 
go  back  to  1875,  and  a  few  figures  may  be  given  to 
show  the  progress  made  since  that  date,  premising  that 
the  mileage  increased  from  5,000  in  1876  to  21,000  in 
1906.  In  1908  it  was  23,000:— 


IN  CANADA  281 

1876.  1906. 

Train  mileage  (miles)       18,000,000        73,000,000 

Passengers 5,500,000        28,000,000 

Freight    (tons) 6,300,000        58,000,000 

Gross    Earnings $19,000,000     $125,000,000 

Net  Earnings $3,500,000      $38,000,000 

It  will  be  agreed,  that  is  a  very  satisfactory  advance 
in  the  space  of  30  years.  The  progress  made  by  the 
railways  from  1900  to  1906  was  so  remarkable  as  to 
lead  one  of  our  public  men  to  declare  that  if  the  Nine- 
teenth Century  belonged  to  the  United  States,  the 
Twentieth  belongs  to  Canada.  The  aggregate  capital 
cost  of  Canadian  railways  down  to  1908,  counting  the 
subsidies  granted  by  the  Federal,  Provincial  and 
Municipal  authorities,  and  the  expenditure  on  Govern- 
ment railroads,  has  been  $1,600,000,000  ;  and,  in  addi- 
tion, land  grants  have  been  voted  to  the  total  amount 
of  50,000,000  acres.  So  far  the  railways,  as  a  whole, 
have  not  yielded  any  large  return  to  the  investor. 
The  net  earnings  in  1908  were  only  sufficient  to  pay  a 
dividend  of  3.20  per  cent  on  the  stock  and  bond  issues 
of  the  company  roads.  The  lines  built  and  operated  by 
the  Government  yielded  nothing.  A  better  condition 
of  things  may  be  looked  for  as  population  increases 
and  the  extensive  natural  resources  are  turned  to 
account. 

Synchronising  with  the  developement  of  the  rail- 
roads, it  became  necessary  to  deepen  the  St.  Lawrence 
between  Quebec  and  Montreal.  This  work  has  occupied 
60  years.  The  depth  of  water  at  the  shallowest  part 
was,  in  the  earlier  days  of  navigation,  11  feet.  Ocean 
vessels  bound  for  Montreal  had  to  be  "lightered"  at 
Quebec,  while  those  outward-bound  from  Montreal 
loaded  only  a  portion  of"  their  cargo,  the  remainder 
being  taken  to  Quebec  in  tow-barges.  A  uniform  depth 
of  30  feet  has  now  been  obtained  throughout  the  170 


282  TRANSPORTATION 

miles  of  river,  and  the  channel  has  bsen  widened.  The 
cost  of  this  undertaking  has  been  about  $10,000,000,and 
the  quantity  of  material  removed  by  the  dredges  amounts 
to  45,000,000  cubic  yards.  The  result  is  that  Montreal, 
which  is  1,000  miles  from  the  open  Atlantic,  250  from 
salt  water  and  80  above  the  nearest  tidal  influence,  has 
been  transformed  into  a  port  capable  of  accommodating 
all  but  the  very  largest  ocean  vessels.  We  are  vain 
enough  to  think  that  this  work  is  in  a  measure  com- 
parable to  the  deepening  of  the  Clyde  from  Greenock  to 
Glasgow.  The  Allan  Company  began  carrying  the  mails 
between  England  and  Canada  in  1856,  and  in  the  inter- 
vening half-century  has  rendered  splendid  service.  The 
Imperial  Government  has  paid  a  postal  subsidy  to  the 
Cunard  Line  almost  uninterruptedly  since  1840,  but  has 
paid  nothing  to  the  Allans  or  to  any  other  Canadian 
steamship  line  operating  on  the  Atlantic,  .beyond  the 
mere  sea  postage  collected  on  mail  matter  'going  from 
England  to  Canada.  Long  ago  the  Canadian  Government 
felt  some  jealousy  that  Britain  should  help  the  Cunard 
Line  whoss  vessels  sail  to  New  York,  rather  than  the 
Allans,  who  were  doing  so  much  for  the  St.  Lawrence 
trade.  This  seeming  neglect  may,  however,  have  been 
a  blessing  in  disguise.  At  any  rate,  thrown  upon  our 
own  resources,  we  have  succeed'ed  in  dissipating  the  bad 
name  of  the  St.  Lawrence  route  among  navigators  and 
insurance  men,  and  in  making  Montreal  one  of  the  chief 
ports  of  North  America.  Its  ocean-going  tonnage,  in  and 
out,  in  1908  was  4,000,000  ton.  The  Canadian  Pacific 
"Empresses"  and  the  Allan  turbine  steamers,  which 
now  carry  the  mails,  are  among  the  finest  vessels  afloat. 
The  contrast  between  them  and  the  tiny,  high-pooped 
barks  of  Jacques  Cartier's  day  sums  up  the  progress  of 
ship-building  in  the  last  300  years.  Ocean  freight  rates 
from  Montreal  are  as  low  as  those  from  New  York  and 
Boston.  Steamers  conveying  perishable  articles  are 


IN  CANADA  283 

furnished  with  an  admirable  system  of  cold  storage, 
which  is  under  Government  supervision,  while  the  mo- 
derate temperature  of  the  northern  route,  in  summer, 
attracts  shipments  of  meats  from  United  States.  The 
ocean  traffic  from  St.  John  is  growing.rapidly,  and  Que- 
bec, though  for  tha  present  eclipsed  by  Montreal,  will 
some  day  become  the  great  port  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Since  18(57,  when  Confederation  took  place,  the  total 
tonnage  of  sea-going  shipping  entered  and  cleared  at 
Canadian  ports,  has  risen  from  4,000,000  to  17,000,000 
tons  register. 

The  Imperialist  who  wishes  to  traverse  the  Empire 
can  now  travel  continuosly  under  the  British  flag.  The 
Canadian  Pacific  and  Allan  steamships  will  convey  him 
from  England  to  Halifax,  St.  John,  Quebec  or  Montreal, 
whence  he  may  journey  across  the  continent  by  a 
Canadian  Pacific  express  train  to  Vancouver.  Here  he 
finds  "  All-Red  "  steamers  sailing  to  Japan  and  Hong- 
Kong,  whence  he  may  proceed  in  other  "All-Red" 
vessels  to  India  or  South  Africa,  or  may  travel  back  to 
England  through  the  Suez  Canal. 

In  conclusion,  it  is  manifest  that  Canada  has  made 
up  her  mind  to  be  true  to  herself  and  yet  to  remain 
affectionately  attached  to  Britain.  An  American  poet 
tells  of  the  little  flower  which  guided  the  hunter  on  the 
plains : — 

"See  how  its  leaves  all  point  to  the  north,  as  true 

as  the  magnet — 
"It  is  the  compass  flower,  that  the  finger  of  God 

has  suspended 
"Here  on  its  fragile  stalk,  to  direct  the  traveller's 

journey 
"Over  the  sea-like,  pathless,  limitless  waste  of  the 

desert." 


284  TRANSPORTATION  IN  CANADA 

And  an  English  writer,  commenting  on  these  lines, 
has  expressed  himself  in  terms  with  which,  I  am  sure, 
the  great  majority  of  the  people  of  Canada  agree: — -"So 
it  must  be  with  all  Canadians.  Their  hearts,  differ  as 
men  may  on  political  or  social  or  religious  questions, 
are  true  to  their  North-Land — a  land  of  great  rivers  and 
inland  seas,  of  illimitable  prairies  and  lofty  mountains, 
of  rich  sea-pastures  and  luxuriant  wheatfields — a  land 
of  free  government  and  free  speech — a  goodly  heritage 
with  which  they  can  never  part  to  &  foreign  Power." 


Scarth    Street.    Regina 


SOME  OF  THE  CHIEF  POINTS  TO  BE 

VISITED  ON  THE 
WESTERN    EXCURSION 

REGINA 

REGINA  is  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Saskatche- 
wan, and  is  situated  on  the  main  line  of  the  Can- 
adian Pacific  Railway,  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
west  of  Winnipeg.  As  capital  of  the  province  it  is  the 
seat  of  government.  Here  the  Legislative  Assembly 
meets,  and  all  the  Departmental  and  Executive  Offices 
are  situated.  In  Regina  also  are  the  headquarters  of 
the  Royal  North-West  Mounted  Police,  and  the  seat  of 
the  Supreme  Court  of  the  province. 

Regina  is  the  centre  of  the  most  famous  wheat  growing 
district  of  Saskatchewan.  The  country  in  all  directions 
is  level  prairie,  with  the  exception  of  a  district  some  nine 
or  ten  miles  away  in  a  north-easterly  direction  where 
the  land  is  somewhat  rolling  and  there  is  a  growth  of 
small  poplar  trees. 

In  1908,  the  total  yield  of  all  grains  in  crop  districts 
1,  2,  4  and  5,  an  area  264  miles  square,  of  which  Regina 
is  practically  the  centre,  was  93,134,482  bushels,  and 
the  total  acreage  under  cultivation  5,250,857  acres. 
From  the  other  five  districts  which  comprise  the  rest  of 
the  province,  each  district  being  of  an  equal  area,  the 
total  yield  of  all  grains  was  12. 859., 932  bushels,  and  the 
total  acreage  under  cultivation  721,444  acres. 

Regina,  itself  on  the  main  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  same  Company's  line 
from  Arcola,  which  is  continued  through  to  Brandon, 
a  line  tapping  a  very  rich  and  well-settled  country  to 
the  south-east.  The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  has  also 


286  WESTERN    EXCURSION 

under  course  of  construction  a  line  running  in  a  norther- 
ly direction  from  Regina  to  connect  with  their  Pheasant 
Hills '  line  at  a  point  at  or  near  Bulyea.  It  is  expected 
that  this  will  be  completed  early  in  the  present  season. 
This  gives  easy  access  to  Last  Mountain  Lake,  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  some  sixty  miles  long,  the  foot  of 
which  is  distant  only  twenty-five  miles  from  the  city  ; 
this  will  undoubtedly  become  a  very  popular  summer 
resort  for  the  citizens  of  Regina. 

Regina  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Northern  Railway  Company's  line  from  Prince 
Albert,  and  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  same  Company's 
line  from  Brandon.  When  continued  through  to  the 
Great  Lakes,  this  will  give  Regina  the  benefit  of  a  com- 
petitive road  through  to  the  head  of  navigation. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  Branch  Lines'  Company 
hold  a  charter  for  a  line  running  from  Regina  to  Mel- 
ville, a  divisional  point  on  the  main  line  of  their  great 
transcontinental  railroad,  about  ninety  miles  north- 
east of  Regina.  This  line  will  be  continued  to  Yorkton, 
and  is  one  of  those  for  the  construction  of  which  the 
bonds  of  the  Company  were  guaranteed  by.the  Provincial 
Government  at  the  last  session.  It  is  hoped  that  it  will 
be  completed  this  year.  As  soon  as  this  line  is  complet- 
ed, work  will  be  commenced  on  the  same  Company's  line 
in  a  south-easterly  direction,  for  which  the  charter  reads: 
"  In  a  south-easterly  direction  from  Regina  to  a  point 
on  the  International  Boundary  at  or  near  North  Portal. 
Charters  for  many  other  lines  are  held  by  various  Com- 
panies. Regina  will  almost  certainly  become  the  grea  + 
distributing  centre  of  the  middle  West. 

The  citizens  of  Regina  have  always  been  firm  be- 
lievers in  the  principle  of  municipal  ownership,  and  the 
city  owns  and  controls  the  electric  light  plant  and  the 
water  works  system.  The  electric  light  plant  riot  only 


WESTERN  EXCURSION-  287 

gives  an  excellent  service  at  a  very  low  rate,  (nine  cents 
per  thousand  k.w.  hours  for  light)  but  also  yields  a  fair 
profit,  which  goes  to  reduce  the  rate  of  taxation.  The 
water  supply  is  derived  from  springs  at  Boggy  Creek, 
a  distance  of  about  eight  miles  from  the  city,  where 
a  dam  and  reservoir  have  been  constructed  with  a  ca- 
pacity of  over  700,000,000  gallons  and  a  fall  of  85  feet 
from  the  reservoir  to  the  power  house  basin.  In  laying 
the  pipe  line  from  the  reservoir  to  the  city,  numerous 
springs  were  struck,  and  these  have  supplied  the  city 
without  the  necessity  of  drawing  upon  the  reservoir. 
The  water  is  well  adapted  for  domestic  purposes  for 
use  in  steam  boilers  and  other  industrial  purposes. 

The  city  hall  built  at  a  cost  of  $175,000,  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  buildings  in  the  city.  It  contains  offices 
for  the  Civic  Officials,  a  large  auditorium  capable  of  seat- 
ing a  thousand  people,  a  public  library  and  a  handsome 
and  well  furnished  council  chamber. 

The  city  has  reserved  large  areas  for  park  purposes. 
The  Victoria  Park  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  contains 
about  seven  acres;  Wascana  Park,  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Lake  and  facing  the  Parliament  Buildings,  con- 
tains about  forty-five  acres  and  has  been  tastefully 
laid  out. 

The  educational  requirements  of  the  city  are  well 
served  by  the  five  public  schools,  the  ' '  separate  school, ' ' 
and  the  collegiate  institute.  All  these  have  been  re- 
cently erected. 

Ajong  the  churches  may  be  specially  mentioned,  the 
Metropolitan  Methodist  Church,  the  Knox  Church,  St. 
Paul's  (Anglican)  and  St.  Mary's  (Roman  Catholic). 
There  are  many  handsome  business  blocks,  and  perhaps 
the  finest  building  in  the  city,  is  the  new  Post  Office. 


288  WESTERN  EXCURSION 


CALGARY 

At  a  point  on  the  main  line  of  The  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  642  miles  east  of  Vancouver,  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  840  miles  west  of  Winnipeg,  the  City  of  Cal- 
gary is  picturesquely  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Bow 
River,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Bow  and  Elbow.  To 
the  west,  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are 
clearly  visible.  To  the  north,  the  country  is  of  a  rolling 
nature,  and  is  well  adapted  for  diversified  farming. 
Southward  to  the  International  Boundary,  much 
grain  is  grown,  although  there  are  many  large  stock 
farms  throughout  this  district.  To  the  east  of  Calgary, 
for  a  distance  of  180  miles,  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
Company  have  undertaken  the  greatest  irrigation 
scheme  in  the  world.  It  serves  a  district  extending  over 
3,000,000  acres. 

The  situation  and  climatic  conditions  of  Calgary 
are  delightful.  Attention  may  be  called  to  its  altitude 
of  3,389  feet,  its  large  proportion  of  sunny  days,  and  to 
the  warm  winds  from  the  west  and  south-west,  known 
as  Chinook  winds.  The  comparative  mildness  of  the 
winter  is  in  marked  contrast  to  the  cold  of  the  more 
central  regions  of  Canada.  The  following  table  shows 
the  average  temperature  and  rainfall,  for  the  ten  years 
prior  to  1908,  as  recorded  at  the  Government  Meteoro- 
logical Station  at  Calgary 

Average  Average  Average         Average 

Temperature,     Rainfall,         .  Temperature,  Rainfall, 

0  Parenheit.         Inches.        •  •  Farenheit.       Inches. 

January    17.5  .25  July   60.1  2.56 

February    ...14.7  .38  August 57.0  3.70 

March 21.9  .92  September 49.1  1.56 

April 39.1  .55  October 41.9  44 

May    47.6  3.44  November  ...  28.8  59 

June    58.7  4.59  December    ...23.2  38 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  289 

The  large  business  blocks  and  public  buildings  are 
built  of  the  famous  Calgary  sandstone,  which  is  found 
along  the  banks  of  the  river.  There  are  about  a  dozen 
quarries  within  the  city  limits.  The  following  buildings 
are  under  construction  or  have  been  completed  within 
the  past  twelve  months. 

Public  Library $  50,000 .00 

Two  Wholesale  Buildings 65,000 .00 

High  School ,  • 85,000 .00 

Y.M.C.A 95,000.00 

Land  Titles  Office   120,000 .00 

Board  of  Trade  Building 130,000.00 

Post  Office 145,000 . 00 

City  Hall    150,000 .00 

General  Hospital 150,000 .00 

Normal  School 150,000 .00 

Court  House 220,000 . 00 

Can.  Pac.  Ry.  Depot 225,000.00 


$1,585,000.00 

There  are  more  than  nine  Public  Schools,  a  High 
School  and  a  Normal  School,  a  ' '  Separate  School, ' '  a 
Convent,  the  Western  Canada  College  for  boys,  and  St. 
Hilda's  College  for  girls.  During  1908,  there  were  3,566 
pupils  in  the  Calgary  Schools.  These  pupils  represent 
eighteen  nationalities  and  speak  fourteen  different 
languages. 

The  twenty-five  churches  in  Calgary  represent  the 
following  denominations :  Methodist,  Presbyterian,  Bap- 
tist, Episcopalian,  Roman  Catholic,  Moravian,  Lutheran, 
Salvation  Army. 

The  numerous  Commercial,  Industrial  and  Financial 
Institutions  established  in  Calgary,  place  it  in  the  po- 
sition of  the  Commercial  Metropolis  of  the  ' '  Last  Great 


290  WESTERN  EXCURSION 

West. ' '  The  Bank  Clearings  for  the  last  six  months 
of  the  year  1908,  were  $38,526,454.00,  an  increase  of 
$3,284,363.00  over  the  last  six  months  of  1907.  The 
clearings  for  the  last  week  of  February,  1909,  show  an 
increase  of  81.5  per  cent,.  The  Customs  receipts  for 
1908,  were  $426,425.00. 

Three  daily  papers,  four  weeklies  and  'three  monthlies, 
are  published  in  Calgary. 

Calgary  was  founded  in  1882,  and  incorporated  as 
a  city  two  years  later.  The  population  in  1901,  was 
6,557 ;  to-day  it  is  more. than  25;000.  The  city  water  sup- 
ply is  of  the  best,  and  is  brought  from  the  Rockies  via 
the  Bow  River.Steam  coal  may  be  obtained  in  Calgary,  at 
$2.75  per  ton  upwards,  natural  gas  has  been  discovered 
and  negotiations  are  in  progress  for  the  development  of 
water  power  on  the  Bow  River.  Calgary's  railway  facili- 
ties are  excellent  and  a  rapid  growth  and  a  prosperous 
future  for  the  city  are  well  assured. 

BANFF* 

Banff  is  situated  at  an  altitude  of  4,521  feet,  and  is  the 
station  for  the  Canadian  National  Park  and  Hot  Springs. 
This  park  is  a  National  Reservation  of  5,732  square 
miles,  embracing  parts  of  the  valleys  of  the  Bow,  Spray 
and  Cascade  Rivers,  Lake  Minnewanka  and  several 
noble  mountain  ranges,  and  beyond  the  ' '  Divide, ' '  the 
Yoho  valley  and  the  country  to  the  west  and  south  of  it. 
The  park  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  being  nearly  half 
as  large  again  as  the  famous  Yellowstone  Park  in  the 
United  States.  No  part  of  the  "Rockies  exhibits  a  greater 
variety  of  sublime  and  pleasing  scenery,  and  nowhere  are 
good  points  of  view  and  features  of  special  interest  so 
accessible,  since  many  good  roads  and  bridle-paths  have 

*The  notes  on  Banff  are  taken,  by  permission,  from  the  Annotated  Time 
Table  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company.  - 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  291 

been  made.  The  railway  station  at  Banff  is  in  the 
midst  of  impressive  mountains.  The  huge  mass  north- 
ward is  Cascade  Mountain  (9,825  ft.) ;  eastward  is  Mount 
Inglismaldie,  and  the  heights  of  the  Fairholme  sub- 
range, behind  which  lies  Lake  Minnewanka.  South- 
eastward from  Inglismaldie,  in  the  same  range  of  the 
Fairholmes,  the  sharp  cone  of  Peechee  (called  after  an 
Indian  chief),  closes  the  view  in  that  direction;  this  is 
one  of  the  highest  mountains  visible.  To  the  left  of 
Cascade  Mountain,  and  just  north  of  the  track,  rises 
the  wooded  ridge  of  Stoney  Squaw  Mountain,  beneath 
which  lie  the  Vermilion  lakes,  seen  just  after  leaving 
the  station.  Up  the  Bow,  westward,  tower  the  distant, 
snowy,  central  heights  of  the  Main  range  about  Simpson 's 
Pass,  most  prominently  the  square,  wall-like  crest  of 
Mount  Bourgeau.  A  little  nearer,  at  the  left,  is  seen 
the  northern  end  of  the  Bourgeau  range,  and  still  nearer, 
the  razor-like  back  of  Sulphur  Mountain,  along  the  side 
of  which  are  the  Hot  Springs,  and  on  whose  summit,  at 
.8,030  ft.,  an  observatory  has  been  established.  The 
isolated  bluff  southward  is  Tunnel  Mountain,  while  just 
behind  the  station,  Rundle  Peak,  9,665  ft.,  rises  sharply 
so  near  at  hand  as  to  cut  off  all  the  view  in  that  direction. 
Just  before  reaching  the  station,  the  train  passes  along 
a  large  corral  of  800  acres  in  which  are  a  number  of  buf- 
falo, the  last  specimens  of  the  monarchs  of  the  plains. 
Plans  are  now  arranged  by  means  of  which  a  collection 
of  bears  will  be  placed  in  a  corral  in  some  central  loca- 
tion in  the  park.  The  village  of  Banff  is  a  short  distance 
southwest  of  the  station,  on  the*hither  side  of  the  Bow, 
and  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Banff  Hotel  is  about 
a  mile  further  on.  A  steel  bridge  takes  the  carriage-road 
across  to  the  magnificent  hotel,  built  by  the  Railway 
Company,  on  an  eminence  between  the  foaming  falls 
in  the  Bow  and  the  mouth  of  the  rapid  Spray  River. 
This  hotel,  which  has  every  modern  convenience  and 


292  WESTERN  EXCURSION 

luxury,  including  baths  supplied  from  the  hot  sulphur 
springs,  is  kept  open  from  May  to  October,  and  thither 
people  from  all  lands  flock  in  numbers.  It  is  most 
favorably  placed  for  health,  picturesque  views,  and  as 
a  centre  for  canoeing,  driving,  walking  or  mountain- 
climbing.  There  are  also  a  sanitarium  and  hospital  in- 
the  village,  and  a  museum  of  more  than  local  interst 
has 'been  established  by  the  Government.  Eight  miles 
from  Banff,  is  Lake  Minnewanka,  on  which  a  fine  launch 
has  been  placed.  There  is  capital  fishing,  the  trout  being 
of  extraordinary  size.  Wild  sheep  (the  big-horn)  and 
mountain  goats  are  occasionally  to  be  seen  on  the  neigh- 
boring heights.  Some  extraordinary  fossil  remains 
and  markings  of  mammoth  pre-historic  creatures  are 
found  on  the  mountain  .slopes  surrounding  this  lake, 
as  well  as  on  Cascade  Mountain.  At  the  upper  end  of 
the  lake  is  the  valley  of  Ghost  River,  a  strange  region 
where  the  mountain  rivulets  gurgle  off  into  subterranean 
reservoirs  and  the  granite  walls  are  pitted  with  caves. 
Between  Banff  and  the  lake  is  Bankhead,  where  are 
located  the  anthracite  mines,  operated  by  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway,  whose  output  will  shortly  provide  the 
country  as  far  east  as  Winnipeg  with  fuel.  The  hot 
springs  are  at  different  elevations  upon  the  eastern  slope 
of  Sulphur  Mountain,  the  highest  being  900  ft.  above 
the  Bow.  All  are  reached  by  fine  roads,  commanding 
glorious  landscapes.  The  more  important  springs  have 
been  improved  by  the  Government,  and  picturesque 
bathing  houses  have  been  erected  and  placed  under 
the  care  of  attendants.  In  one  locality  is  a  pool  inside 
a  dome-roofed  cave,  entered  by  an  artificial  tunnel;  and 
adjacent,  another  spring  forms  an  open  basin  of  warm 
sulphurous  water.  Since  the  opening  of  the  railway, 
these  springs  have  been  largely  visited,  and  testimony 
to  their  wonderful  curative  properties  is  plentiful. 
Twenty  miles  south  of  Banff  is  Mount  Assiniboine,  the 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  293 

Matterhorn  of  the  new  world,  the  ascent  of  which,  after 
several  unsuccessful  attempts,  was  made  in  the  autumn 
of  1901,  by  the  Rev.  James  Outram  and  a  party  of 
Swiss  guides.  The  way  to  it  leads  through  beautiful 
valleys  studded  with  transparent  blue  lakes  and  park- 
like  prairie  openings. 

VANCOUVER,  BRITISH  COLUMBIA 

Vancouver,  the  chief  commercial  capital  of  the  western 
half  of  the  Canadian- American  continent,  is  situated 
on  the  extreme  western  shore  of  the  mainland  of  British 
Columbia,  a  distance  of  fifty  miles  north  of  the  Inter- 
national boundary,  overlooking  the  Gulf  of  Georgia, 
which,  with  Vancouver  Island  and  the  Straits  of  Juan 
de  Fuca,  lies  between  the  city  and  the  open  Pacific 
Ocean.  Vancouver  was  founded  in  1880,  and  has  a 
population  of  85,000.  Its  commercial  supremacy  is 
based  on  the  fact  that  it  is  the  natural  gateway  for  Can- 
adian and  British-Oriental  trade  and  that  it  is  the  con- 
verging point  of  several  transcontinental  railway  lines, 
as  well  as  the  port  of  trans-Pacific  shipping.  Chief 
among  the  transcontinental  lines  having  their  terminals 
at  this  point,  is  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  with 
through  and  direct  connections  from  Liverpool  and  all 
European  ports  via  Montreal  and  St.  John,  and  navi- 
gating its  own  steamships  to  Japan  and  China.  The 
journey  from  Montreal  to  Vancouver  occupies  96  hours. 
There  is  a  regular  steamship  service  to  the  Orient  from 
Vancouver.  The  time  from  Vancouver  to  Yokohama 
is  fourteen  days;  to  Hong  Kong  22  days,  wirh  interven- 
ing calls  at  Kobe,  Nagasaki  and  Shanghai. 

Next  in  importance  is  the  trade  with  the  Antipodes, 
carried  on  by  the  Canadian- Australian  line,  with  a  trio 
of  ships  called  the  Aorangi,  the  Moana  and  Makura. 
The  sailings  on  this  line  are  monthly,  the  time  between 


294  WESTERN  EXCURSION 

Vancouver  and  Sydney,  (N.S.W.),  being  approximately 
thirty  days,  with  calls  at  Honolulu,  Suva  and  Brisbane. 
Both  the  Canadian-Pacific  and  the  Canadian-Australian 
are  Royal  Mail  S.  S.  lines  and  close  connections  are  made 
with  the  fast  through  mails  from  Liverpool. 

A  "  Four- Weekly-Service  "  between  California  points, 
Mexico,  Guatemala,  Salvador  Honduras  and  Nicaragua 
is  also  maintained.  The  trade  between  these  and  Can- 
adian ports  is  rapidly  increasing  in  importance.  Among 
other  "freighters"  calling  regularly  at  the  port  of 
Vancouver,  are  those  of  the  Ocean  S.S.  Co.,  and  the  China 
Mutual  Steam  Navigation  Co.,  operating  a  monthly 
service  to  Liverpool  via  Japan,  China  and  the  Suez  Canal. 

The  local  service  between  Vancouver,  Victoria  and 
Seattle  is  triangular  and  three  magnificent  steamers  are 
engaged  in  the  trade.  Morning  and  afternoon  sailings 
are  made  for  Victoria;  the  distance  is  75  miles,  and  the 
time  occupied,  four  hours.  From  Seattle  to  Vancouver 
150  miles,  the  time  taken  is  nine  hours. 

Daily  communication  is  also  maintained  with  Nan- 
aimo,  the  centre  of  Vancouver  Island  coal  mining  in- 
dustries. This  port  is  forty  miles  distant  and  the  journey 
occupies  three  hours.  The  ' '  Coastwise ' '  service  is  sup- 
plied by  a  flotilla  of  steamers  operated  by  numerous 
steamship  companies  having  their  head  offices  in  Van- 
couver. By  means  of  these  the  whole  coast  line  as  far 
north  as  Alaska,  Queen  Charlotte  Island  and  northern 
British  Columbia  coast  ports  is  covered.  Sailings  are 
regularly  scheduled  and  average  four  a  week.  All  the 
Coastwise  steamships  of  the  Puget  Sound  service  also 
call  at  Vancouver  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  North. 

In  addition  to  the  freight  and  passenger  delivery 
from  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  the  Great  Northern 
Railway  operates  three  trains  daily  each  way  between 
Vancouver  and  Seattle,  while  extensive  plans  for  ad- 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  295 

ditional  terminal  facilities  have  been  filed  by  this  Com- 
pany, and  the  work  of  grading  and  dock  building  is 
already  under  way.  Other  American  transcontinental 
lines  have  also  charters  for  rights-of-way  to  this  term- 
inal, and  construction  is  being  planned,  while  several 
new  lines  from  the  interior  of  British  Columbia,  having 
chartered  rights  to  reach  the  coast,  are  hastening  con- 
struction, so  as  to  bring  the  whole  of  the  vast  interior 
of  the  province  within  a  few  hours  travel  from  Vancouver. 
Charters  were  obtained  at  the  last  session  of  the  legis- 
lature for  lines  to  extend  to  the  north  in  various  direc- 
tions and  undertakings  have  been  given  that  the  work 
of  construction  will  begin  at  once. 

A  single  glance  at  the  geographical  position  of  Van- 
couver will  show  how  suitable  was  its  selection  as  a 
terminus  for  these  numerous  railways  and  steamship 
lines.  Burrard  Inlet,  the  landlocked  harbour,  entered 
through  a  narrow  channel,  wide,  deep  and  sheltered, 
affords  one  of  the  best  anchorages  in  the  world,  while 
its  fourteen  odd  miles  of  water  front  affords  facilities 
that  for  wharf  and  dockage  are  unsurpassed  among  the 
ports  of  the  world.  False  Creek,  a  second  waterway 
at  the  south  of  the  business  section  of  the  city,  needing 
only  inconsiderable  artificial  development,  affords  an- 
other channel  for  docking  big  ships,  and  a  shore  line 
furnishing  many  miles  of  factory  and  mill  front. 

The  business  portion  of  the  city  occupies  the  centre 
of  a  gently  elevated  peninsula,  which  slopes  northward 
southward  and  westward  to  salt  water.  The  oldest 
and  most  fashionable  residential  section  is  in  the  West 
End,  occupying  the  terraces  between  the  business  por- 
tion and  Stanley  Park,  with  its  shore  line  at  English 
Bay.  Otherwise,  the  suburban  residential  sections 
are  in  the  east  and  across  False  Creek,  from  which  they 
slope  southward  and  eastward  like  the  terraces  of  a  vast 
natural  amphitheatre. 


296  WESTERN  EXCURSION 

In  the  business  section  of  the  city  trie  wide,  well- 
paved  and  well-kept  streets  and  the  substantial  charac- 
ter and  architectural  qualities  of  many  of  the  business 
houses  furnish  impressive  evidences  of  material  pros 
perity,  and  of  the  confidence  of  investors  in  the  future 
greatness  of  the  city.  The  city  is  well  provided  with 
tram  lines.  There  is  also  a  double  track  inter-urban 
service  with  the  city  of  New  Westminster,  twelve  miles 
distant,  which  is  being  continued  through  the  rich  lands 
of  the  Fraser  Valley  to  the  city  of  Chilliwack.  A 
further  rural  extension  of  the  tram  line  connects  with 
Steveston,  the  capital  of  the  salmon  fishing  industry, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Fraser  River. 

The  scenery  of  Stanley  and  English  Bay  forms  one 
of  the  chief  charms  of  Vancouver.  Stanley  Park  con- 
sists of  1,000  acres  of  natural  scenery.  Situated  upon 
a  peninsula  which  is  almost  an  island,  the  park  is  nine 
miles  in  circumference  and  within  its  grounds  are  some 
of  the  most  magnificent  specimens  of  the  big  trees  of 
British  Columbia.  English  Bay,  the  long  stretch  of 
water  fronting  on  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  affords  bathing 
facilities  unrivalled  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  Gulf, 
gemmed  with  emerald  islands  studding  its  placid  sur- 
face, stretches  towards  the  north  and  south  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  while  across  its  hazy  distance  is  the 
Olympic  range  of  mountains  with  their  snow-capped 
peaks,  and  on  the  north  the  Cascade  range  nearer  at 
hand,  with  the  serrated  heights  severely  outlined  against 
the  sky. 

VICTORIA,  VANCOUVER    ISLAND,   BRITISH 
COLUMBIA 

Victoria  being  the  first  port  entered  by  all  steamships 
from  Australia,  Japan,  China  and  other  Oriental  coun^ 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  297 

tries,  having  large  and  varied  commercial  enterprises, 
and  being  the  capital  of  the  largest  and  richest  of  the 
Canadian  provinces,  is  of  more  than  ordinary  interest 
to  strangers,  and  is  none  the  less  so  because  it  happens 
to  be  one  of  the  most  charmingly  situated  cities  in  the 
world.  It  is  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  Canadian  Pa- 
cific Railway  system  in  Canada,  has  a  population  of 
nearly  40,000  and  occupies  an  ideal  situation  at  the 
extreme  southern  end  of  Vancouver  Island,  within  a  few 
hours'  sail  of  the  mainland  of  British  Columbia  and  of 
the  United  States. 

It  is  agreed  that  the  picturesque  situation  of  Victoria 
is  unsurpassed.  From  Beacon  Hill  Park  can  be  seen 
on  one  hand  the  rugged  snow-clad  Olympians,  and  on 
the  other,  rising  proudly  in  the  distance  beyond  the 
island-studded  straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  the  lordly  Mount 
Baker.  The  combination  of  magnificent  scenery  and 
almost  perfect  climate  is  destined  to  render  Victoria  one 
of  the  largest  and  richest  residential  cities  on  the  con- 
tinent. Victoria  has  excellent  hotel  accommodation. 
The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  have,  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  overlooking  the  picturesque  harbour,  one  of  the 
finest  hotels  on  the  continent,  ' '  The  Empress. ' ' 

The  public  schools  of  Victoria,  which  are  free  to  every- 
one under  21  years  of  age,  are  up-to-date  in  every  re- 
spect. The  High  School  is  in  affiliation  with  the  Uni- 
versity of  McGill,  Montreal.  Besides  its  public  educa- 
tional system,  the  city  is  the  home  of  a  large  number 
of  private  colleges  and  academies  both  for  boys  and 
girls.  The  Parliament  Building  is  acknowledged  to  be 
one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  imposing  structures  on 
the  continent.  It  is  one  of  the  first  sights  to  catch  the 
visitor's  eye  as  he  enters  the  harbour  of  Victoria.  It 
stands  amid  spacious  and  beautifully  kept  lawns,  the 
vivid  green  of  which  testifies  to  the  mildness  of  the 


WESTERN  EXCURSION 
Parlment  Brings,  there  are  three 


advantages  it  seems  probable 


centr        Tl 
ards  in  vlf'   '       ^  au6  n°  less  than  five  OI>   six 

rt,  J     rt'  and  AsThlPbuildmg  is  becoming  lts  most 
mportant  industry      Many  of  the  large  steamers  used 

3ife222SnttoBd;  have  been  built  here'  as  well  as 
the  hydrographic  and  other  vessels  used  by  the  Domi- 
nion  Government. 

The  country  immediately  surrounding  the   town  is 

whicltt7  bfUf  ^  the  undulatmg  promontory  upon 
which  the  city  stands  being  covered  with  woods  of  pine 

?^a  h1"  T  a,  Vdy  Wild  jun^le  of  arbutus,  roses,  flower- 
ing bushes  of  many  varieties,  and  English  broom  In 

dpLT7!an  tf^ff  there  is  an  extraordinary  abun- 
dance of  beautiful  wild  flowers.  Victoria  has  been  des- 

P11    fi    a'  TuA  Blt  °f    EnSland  on  the    Shores  of'  the 
racmc        1  his  expression  conveys  a  very  excellent  idea 
of  local  conditions.     The  institutions,  buildings,   clubs 
annerS  ^  CUStoms  bein^  essentially  of  English 


EDMONTON 

From  the  earliest  days  Edmonton,  the  capital  of 
the  Province  of  Alberta,  was  an  important  trading  post 
of  the  Hudson  s  Bay  Company.  It  was  one  of  the 
chief  centres  and  served  as  headquarters  for  the  Peace 
Kiver  district  and  the  upper  waters  of  the  North  Sas- 
katchewan. A  trading  post  it  remained  till  the  earlv 
eighties  when  it  engaged  with  the  rest  of  Western  Can- 
ada in  a  premature  and  transcient  boom.  Naturally  it 
suffered  from  the  collapse  of  this  boom,  but  a  beginning 
had  been  made  for  the  future  city  and  its  population 
and  prosperity  increased  slowly  and  surely  till  the 


299 

recent  phenomenal  developement  of  Western  Canada 
commenced  a  decade  ago.  Edmonton  by  reason  of  its 
position  and  other  advantages  was  able  to  take  the 
fullest  benefit  of  the  progressive  movement,  and  to-day 
finds  itself  the  second  city  of  the  prairie  provinces. 

Built  as  it  is  on  the  steep  banks  of  the  North  Sas- 
katchewan and  amid  the  bush  which  grows  out  from 
the  river,  it  enjoys  the  best  and  most  picturesque 
situation  of  any  of  the  prairie  cities.  The  river  is  both 
narrow  and  rapid  at  that  point,  and  as  a  result,  has 
bored  a  deep  channel  in  the  plains,  leaving  high  banks 
covered  with  trees  which  give  the  city,  from  certain 
points,  the  appearance  of  standing  on  a  hill  and  differ- 
entiates its  aspect  from  other  cities  which  are  surrounded 
on  every  side  by  the  level  prairie.  It  has  been  laid  out 
with  care  and  taste.  The  streets  are  wide  and  well 
arranged,  and  every  convenience  such  as  electric  light, 
street  car  service,  telephones  and  water  supplies  have 
been  secured  for  the  inhabitants.  The  principal  tho- 
roughfare is  Jasper  Avenue  running  parallel  to  the  river: 
the  other  chief  streets  branch  off  from  it  and  it  contains 
most  of  the  banks  and  important  business  establish- 
ments. The  city  has  twenty  two  hotels,  fourteen  banks, 
ten  schools  and  twenty  churches,  and  the  visitor  will  be 
surprised  at  the  size  and  excellent  appearance  of  many 
of  the  buildings.  Edmonton  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Provincial  Government  of  Alberta,  and  the  Local  Legis- 
lature's presence  makes  it  the  centre  of  provincial 
Society  and  public  business.  The  Land  Titles  Office  for 
the  whole  of  the  vast  territory  of  Northern  Alberta  is 
in  the  city  and  a  large  new  Court  House  has  just  been 
erected. 

Edmonton  has  always  been  a  great  fur-trading  centre 
and  to-day  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  their  great 
rivals,  Revilion  Brothers,  secure  a  large  proportion  of 
their  purchases  of  fur  through  their  establishment  here. 


300  WESTERN  EXCURSION 

But  it  has  ceased  to  be  dependent  on  this  trade  alone, 
and  is  now  the  second  largest  distributing  centre  be- 
tween the  Lakes  and  the  Rockies.  It  is  the  place  from 
which  the  country  storekeepers  of  North  Alberta  and 
the  settlers,  traders  and  construction  gangs  engaged  in 
the  development  of  an  enormous  area  of  territory  derive 
their  supplies  :  as  a  result,  every  wholesale  house  of 
any  importance  has  a  branch  or  agency  and  its  volume 
of  annual  trade  is  developing  in  an  unprecedented 
manner.  It  is  also  a  very  important  railway  centre; 
the  Canadian  Northern  have  had  their  western  terminus 
there  for  four  years  and  the  Grand  Trunk  Pacific  have 
just  completed  their  tracks  into  the  city.  At  present,  the 
Canadian  Pacific  passenger  trains  only  run  to  Strath  - 
cona  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  but  this  Company 
intends,  in  the  immediate  future,  to  cooperate  with  the 
two  cities  in  constructing  a  much  needed  high  level 
bridge  for  railway  and  other  traffic.  At  present  Ed- 
monton has  25,000  inhabitants  and  Strathcona  about 
7,000  :  a  friendly  but  keen  rivalry  exists  between  the 
two  places,  but  sooner  or  later  they  are  destined  to  be 
harmoniously  united.  Edmonton,  as  the  capital,  has 
the  better  prospects  but  the  smaller  city  has  recently 
received  a  handsome  solatium  in  the  shape  of.  the  Pro- 
vincial University. 

Edmonton  is  particularly  fortunate  in  one  respect:  it 
is  built  on  extensive  coal  beds  of  fairly  good  quality 
and  at  least  half  a  score  of  coal  mines  are  in  operation 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city.  This  is  in  itself 
an  enormous  advantage  as  it  must  decrease  the  cost  of 
living  in  winter  and  offer  great  attractions  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  manufactures.  Again,  within  20  miles  of 
the  city,  are  extensive  marl  beds,  brick  or  pottery 
clay- deposits,  asphalt,  and,  further  away,  deposits  of 
iron  :  successful  dredging  operations  for  gold  are  also 
carried  on  in  the  river  within  the  city  precincts. 


WESTERN  EXCURSION  301 

Not  so  long  ago  Edmonton  was  regarded  as  the  fron- 
tier post  of  civilisation  and  settlement  in  the  North- 
west, but  to-day  the  Canadian  Northern  and  Grand 
Trunk  Pacific  are  rapidly  pushing  their  transcontinental 
lines  westward,  projecting  new  branches  and  planning 
to  open  up  vast  tracts  of  fertile  country.  Homestead- 
ers are  nocking  in,  villages  are  springing  up  and  the 
wilderness  is  being  tamed  by  science  and  labor.  At  Ed- 
monton the  visitor  will  hear  little  else  talked  of  but  a 
certain  land  of  promise  called  the  Peace  River  Valley, 
to  which  the  eyes  of  the  world  are,  some  day,  to  be 
turned  as  a  greater  wheat-growing  area  than  the  Sas- 
katchewan Valley.  The  people  of  Edmonton  regard 
Manitoba  j'and  Ontario  as  old  decadent  civilisations 
and  talk  glibly  of  the  greater  prospects  of  the  vast 
country  to  the  north  of  their  city.  Their  enthusiastic 
hopes  have  certain  strong  foundations  in  fact  and  are 
bound  at  least  to  be  partially  realized.  But  the  future 
of  Edmonton  itself  is  assured  though  the  Peace  River 
Valley  should  prove  to  be  a  very  barren  tract  which  is 
unthinkable  and  the  Alberta  capital  may  yet  become  a 
serious  rival  of  Winnipeg  for  the  position  of  premier  city 
in  Western  Canada.  Happily  there  is  room  for  two 
graat  cities  in  this  vast  land  and  each  has  a  territory, 
larger  than  most  European  countries  to  dominate  as  a 
political,  social  and  commercial  centre. 


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