Handy dog booklet series

One of the

Handy Dog Booklet Series

PUPPIES and

THEIR CARE

By CAPT. WILL JUDY

Editor of Dog World Magazine, Author of The Dog EncyclO'
pedia, Training the Dog, Care of the Dog, Kennel Building
and Plans, Principles of Dog Breeding, and Sirius Series

P & M ANGUS

GEORGE E. & HARRIETTA DWYER
ROUTE 1, BOX 261K
ALBANY, OREGON 97321

JUDY PUBLISHING COMPANY

CHICAGO 16

1944

COPYRIGHT, 1944. WILL JUDY

Purchasable at any bookstore or from the publisher

Excerpts to a reasonable extent can be made
but with specific credit to author and publisher

Printed in U.S.A. ^

THIS IS THE 4TH EDITION, 1944—8,000
1st ed., 1936 — 6,000. 2nd ed., 1939—6,500. 3rd ed., 1942—6,000

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

This is one of a series of TWELVE booklets by Capt. Will Judy on specific dog
subjects of practical interest and published under the name HANDY DOC BOOKLETS.
Figure denotes current edition.

1. FEEDING THE DOG (4)

2. HOW TO SHIP DOGS (3)

3. DOG IN THE SHOW RING (4)

4. DOG SHOWS AND RULES (4)

5. LAWS ABOUT DOGS (4)

6. WHELPING OF PUPPIES (4)

7. HOUSEBREAKING DOG (4)

8. HANDLING THE MATING (4)

9. STUD DOG'S CARE AND

MANAGEMENT (4)

10. ANATOMY OF THE DOG (2)

11. PUPPIES AND THEIR

CARE (3)

12. HOW TO SELL DOGS (2)

It is a pleasure to invite attention to the scientific, authoritative, vigorous manner
of presentation characteristic of his writings, not only on dogs but also on general
subjects.

The price of these booklets is 25c each, 3 for 50c, 7 for $1,
8 or more, 13c each; or a special price of $1.50 for all twelve.
Or all twelve nicely bound in book form, $2.50. Cash or COD.
Any assortment of titles. Order either by number or title.

As the subjects covered by the Handy Dog Booklet Series are
those which interest every dog owner, breeder and lover in a
practical, important way, the publishers take pleasure in offering
them in this convenient, low-priced booklet form. More copies have
been sold (104,000 total thus far) than of any other printed matter
in the dog field.

JUDY PUBLISHING COMPANY

JUDY BUILDING, 3323 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD. CHICAGO 16

July— 1944

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

INTRODUCTION

Owning a dog is a serious responsibility.
To enjoy the position of dog's master in-
curs obligation. The dog surrenders many
of his natural rights and habits in return
for the servitude he gives the human.

The puppy is the perfect example of
trusting loyalty. To him all the world's
a stranger to be greeted. Not only each
day but each moment of each hour of the
day, he discovers something new in our
world of humans, in which he must live.

Life is an endless chain experience of
play, discovery and thrills. Not a care
worries his carefree soul. What scene on
this earth holds more pure happiness than
that of a litter of playing puppies — broth-
ers and sisters in a family world that has
not yet known separation!

Consequently, a puppy, particularly if it
is brot into a new home, should receive
every consideration in the way of feeding,
care, housing and training. At three
months of age, it compares with the in-
fant just out of the cradle ; and to a
great extent the same care which the
child receives, should be given to the
puppy.

Need of Common Sense

One should not hesitate to buy a puppy
because of the fear that it cannot be
cared for properly. The dog has an im-
mense amount of reserve stamina which
keeps it in health and activity, notwith-
standing all the wrong administrations
and lack of care the human master may
be guilty of.

Bring the puppy into the home as a
member of your household, use common
sense, and in nine cases of ten, he will
grow up into a normal, strong, creditable
specimen of the canine family.

Written for Two Classes

This booklet. Puppies and Their Care,
is written for two genei*al groups. First,
to some extent for the dog breeder. He
has had much experience in weaning and
raising puppies ; nevertheless, some of the
suggestions here may be helpful to him.

The second class easily is much larger in
number because it embraces all those per-
sons who are dog owners and lovers of
dogs — they who want a dog for the pro-
tection of the home, for a play companion
for the child, as a watchdog or for other
useful purposes— they who comprise the
sales field for the kennel owner and dog
breeder.

And their number in the United State?
is easily twelve million, or one out of
every eleven persons in this country is a
dog owner.

Should not Own a Dog

National Dog Week carries the slogan,
"Every dog needs a good home." There
is a complement to this slogan — "Every
good home should have a dog."

Those persons who do not care for a dog
properly, who do not keep the dog on their
premises, do not develop the mental abili-
ty of the dog thru training, who disre-
gard the rights of neighbors, permit the
dog to roam about and who do not proper-
ly groom and care for the dog — such per-
sons are not worthy of owning dogs.

They are the persons who make neces-
sary the dog pound and the dog catcher.
They are the ones who, instead of the
dogs, should be thrown into the dog
catcher's wagon and taken to the dog
pound.

[3]

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE-^

Early Care Aids Age

As with children, so with puppies — early
training and environment mould the grow-
ing dog. Underfeeding, damp, drafty
quarters, the wrong kind of foods, bad
habits not corrected, skin condition be-

coming worse on account of lack of
grooming — ^all these take their toll in the
developing dog. Therefore, proper care of
the puppy is essential for his permanent
welfare and for the conscience of the

I.— WHAT BREED, AGE, AND SEX OF DOG?

Why a Puppy?

Should the prospective dog owner
purchase a puppy or grown dog?

By all means, purchase a puppy. To
observe and supervise the physical and
mental development of a puppy is to
undertake a college course in pedagogy
and psychology combined. One notes the
same problems as in that of the growing
child. It is worth all the extra trouble to
study the ways of the puppy, to notice his
outlook on life, to mould his habits and
personality even day by day.

The puppy coming into the household
adapts himself to the ways of the family.
The dog reflects the master in habits, in
disposition and personality. He should
and does take on the color of his owner's
habits and temperament, like master, like
dog.

There is the opportunity to teach him
early in obedience, to mould his ways be-
fore they have hardened into undesirable
habits, to give him the opportunity to
build up a strong body for later years, to
make him a member of the family and a
desirable playmate and guard for the
children.

All these lead to the conclusion that a
dog should be purchased as a puppy and
his education early directed entirely by
the one or two persons who are to have
the permanent responsibility for the dog.

At What Age for Purchase

Perhaps the best age at which to pur-
chase a puppy is that of three to four
months, but up to six months is satisfac-
tory. He has gotten his milk or first
teeth at four to six weeks ; by the age of
three months he already should have had
a worming, learned much from his broth-
ers and sisters, and should be ready to go
out into the world for his human-directed
education, particularly in obedience.

He has had time and opportunity to
associate with other dogs to learn by imi-
tation the many things which he can
learn only from other dogs such as bark-
ing, being on guard, and developing a
sense of curiosity.

What Breed is to be Chosen?

There are 109 officially recognized breeds
of dogs in the United States. "Which one
of these shall the family, perhaps little
familiar with the various breeds, choose
as a coming member of the household, one
over which they will be much concerned?

Every breed is a good breed. The world
around, a dog is a dog, whether pure«
bred or mongrel, large or small. The 2-
pound chihuahua of Mexico can shake
hands with the 220-pound St. Bernard of
Switzerland and say truthfully, "Hello,
brother." All dogs possess the same

qualities which have endeared them to the
human race thru all the centuries — loy-
alty, devotion, unselfishness, patience,
usefulness and courage even unto death.

Size of Breed

Unless one lives in a very small apart-
ment, even the large-sized breeds can be
chosen. The very large breeds do not run
greatly, are mindful of the furniture in
the home, do not need as much exercise
in proportion as the smaller-sized dogs,
and are especially considerate of children.
We have been in homes where great danes
were kept and these dog sseldom or never
harmed the furnishings in any way.

The medium-sized and small dogs are
more popular and naturally so, for they
adapt themselves more readily to private
living quarters, to automobiles, and to
easy handling. But insofar as children
are concerned, almost any breed can be
chosen.

For instance, one might say that the
terrier is ideal. He is ideal, yet requires
much exercise ; he runs much ; he barks
much out of the sheer joy of living ; rugs
and carpets mean little to him in his gay
life. And yet we heartily can recom-
mend the terrior as a dog for any home.

Breed Not Highly Important

Altho we go contrary to most advice on
this subject, we believe that there need be
little concern over choice of breed. The
great consideration is that the dog, what-
ever the breed, once it has been taken into
the home, receive proper care, daily
exercise, correct feeding and constant
training.

Today the emphasis is placed not so
much upon more dogs but upon better-
trained and better-cared-for dogs; and
this depends entirely upon owners who
realize the necessity of caring for a dog
and who are willing to put forth the effort
to this end.

Advantages of the Female

Shall a male or female be chosen?
Prejudice favors the male and indeed
kennels usually charge from five to ten
dollars more for a male than for a female
out of the same litter. Unfortunately
there still persists the custom of drowning
the girls and saving the boys, so to speak.
We are heartily in favor of a campaign
in behalf of the female dog.

The author has written a leaflet entitled
"In Praise of the Female," which has
been widely reprinted even in foreign
countries. It presents statements with
which almost all oldtime dog people agree,
namely, that the female is more easily
trained, does less damage to the furnish-
ings in the home, is housebroken more

5— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

readily, does not roam about so much, does
her duties more modestly and in smaller
area, is more considerate of children, is
cleaner in the house, and in general, if
there is any advantage in sex, she has it.

There is only the consideration that is
placed upon the female of every species —
the coming into season or heat. This oc-
curs twice a year and for a period of about
twenty days each time. Remember that
at all other times, there is absolutely no
mating of dogs.

During these heat periods, the female
or bitch should be taken out on lead or
kept in the house or closely screened yard.
There is the desirable alternative that the
female may be bred and a litter be raised,
thus adding to the family income.

Altho in this booklet we constantly
use the male pronoun — him, his, he to re-
fer to the puppy, we always include both
sexes. If you are in doubt about what
sex to choose, get a female or bitch puppy.

Where shall Puppy be Bot?

Where can one locate a satisfactory
puppy? Some pet shops are reliable and
sanitary. The best source of supply is a
kennel, a place large or small, public or
private, where dogs are bred, raised and
sold.

Buy only from a reliable kennel, one
which advertises in dog publications and
other reliable publications.

These kennelmen or breeders are inter-
ested in satisfied customers as much as in
making a sale. You can depend upon the
accuracy of the pedigree records. You
can depend upon dogs being in healthy
condition when purchased. The average
breeder is interested in selling good stock
which later will bring more customers to
him by reason of the satisfaction the
purchaser has in the puppy.

It can be accepted as a general truth
that one gets in this world just about what
he pays for. Pay a fair price and get
a healthy, truly-represented dog. You are
taking over a living investment that will
repay daily dividends for a decade.

Choosing One of Several

Which one shall be chosen out of a
litter? This is a matter of personal pref-
erence and in the way of color chiefly.

On the whole, choose a puppy that is
wide-awake, takes an interest in surround-
ings, comes promptly when you whistle or
make a sound, shows a friendly disposi-
tion, snuggles in your arms, wants to eat
your hat, and in general, is a lively, play-
ful, easy-moving dog.

Ask the kennel man to let you handle
the dog and walk it on lead. Watch for
lameness, stiff movement, dullness. Exam-
ine the coat and skin — it should be glossy
and oily.

Does the puppy want to play? Is it
spunky and aggressive? Is it on its toes,
ready for fun, interested in everything?

Avoid any puppy whose eyes and nose
are running, skin scaly, foot pads sore,
legs not properly shaped, inside of ears
red, swollen or foulsmelling, white spots
on pupil and iris of eye.

Get the puppy you want and with it
preferably at the time of purchase, get
two signed papers — a pedigree for at least
three generations and a registration appli-
cation. Get preferably a puppy inoculated
against distemper — and then be on your
way home to embark on years of com-
panionship and adventure with a dog —
your dog.

Naming the Dog

What shall you name the dog? There
are the traditional names Fido, Rover,
Spot, Lad, Queenie and Prince. Choose
whatever call name you wish but choose
it early and always use this same name.

Use color, size, personality of dog. or
some aspect of your own family life as the
basis for choosing a name. For instance,
if he is black in color, he can be called
Goalie. Blackie, Blackout, Middle (mid-
night I, Affie (Africa), Inkie, Clips
(eclipse).

His registered name can be entirely dif-
ferent. He may be known as Buster to
everybody including himself and yet he
may be registered as Sir Pride of Forest
Hills.

II.— THE PUPPY ARRIVES IN NEW HOME

For months the family has been dis-
cussing the desirability of purchasing a
puppy. Mother protests that she does not
want her rugs ruined. The children insist
that they want a dog just like the other
boys and girls have. Father seemingly is
neutral, but behind the scene he slyly en-
courages the children.

So the puppy is purchased from a re-
liable kennel, the pedigree certificate and
the registration application obtained in
advance, and the puppy is delivered by the
express man.

"Have a Heart'

We cannot set forth the situation more
effectively than by repeating what we
wrote a long time ago as one of the Siri-
us Sentiment Seiiee, entitled Have a
Heart:

Nothing is more pathetic and at the
same time more courageous than a few-
months-old puppy literally pulled away
from its mother, away from brothers and
sisters ; then pushed into a crate, shaken
up on a jolting journey, finally ushered in-
to the presence of strangers in its new
home, each one of whom insists upon
handling it.

The slats are torn off the crate — a com-
motion enuf to terrify even an old dog.
The little breathing bunch of softness is
cold, hungry, trembling after the rough-
ness of travel, and with it all, a sickness
it never knew before, that of loneliness.

Far from home and playmates, it peers
out of the crate with frightened yet trust-
ing eyes. It looks about only to be dis-
appointed for it had fancied dimly in the
back of its mind, that in some way, at the

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE— 6

end of the journey, mother and the rest
of the family would be there to welcome
it with a pretended sniff and then resume
the customary romping play.

The pat of a hand, a saucer of milk, a
few softly spoken words, and almost a
miracle transpires in an instant. The tail
wags. The eyes become less drawn ; they
look up at you with a sort of soulful
pleading. The legs wabble a bit, then
walk.

The crate, the trembling and the cold
are forgotten. It begins to explore the
new home, every crack and corner — and
ten days later, it owns the house and
everything in it, including yourself.

The Memorable First Night

Now come the critical times and crises.
First things must be chosen carefully for
they draw the line and etch the path of
habits of the future.

Who is to feed the dog? Who train
him? Who is to take him out for his
daily run? Where is he to sleep? Who is
to be his last-resort master?

For the first few hours in his new home,
which is a new world of strange sounds
and sights, and above all, strange smells
for him, let him fall asleep after he has
lapped his fill of milk.

Mother Gets out of Bed

But — what is the peculiar, sharp, whin-
ing noise? It is after midnight and the
mother, anticipating trouble, is the first
to hear the sound.

Mother gets out of bed. The newcomer
in the family is petted, gets an extra
saucer of milk, his bed straightened — and
yet he persists in yapping, yapping, yap-
ping so that the entire family cannot sleep
and soon become irritated and nervously
so.

There is nothing nnreasonable in the
whimpering of a puppy. Its nerves are
still wrought up over the many things
that have happened in the last few days
such as the roar of the wheels, the jolting
of the shipping crate, the rough voices of
strange men, the absence from his broth-
ers and sisters — all in all he is awfully
homesick.

You can let him sleep with you in the
bed. He substitutes you for his soft, warm
mother. This is not to be considered a
precedent for all the future.

If the breeder sends a toy or glove
which the puppy played with in his old
home, the homesickness in the new home
is lessened.

Try this novel method — place an alarm
clock in the basket with the puppy ; the con-
stant ticking tends to keep him quiet.

The End of the Holiday

A day has passed and with it the holiday
of the puppy in the home — no more for-
giveness, exceptions and special favors. A
regular routine must be established
promptly, then followed constantly and
precisely

III.— HOUSEBREAKING THE DOG

First, the puppy must be housebroken.
Bear in mind that the dog is really an
animal of the field, man's greatest con-
quest over the animal kingdom. Have
plenty of patience and plenty of heart for
the puppy during the first two weeks in
his new home. He must go thru a col-
lege education in etiquet and not get or
give any bad marks.

F.eed the dog at regular hours each day.
Take him outdoors about fifteen minutes
after each meal.

Take him out on lead and if practicable,
let him off lead temporarily. He likes a
bit of modesty and freedom in performing
his natural duties outdoors. Else he may
go out with you for an hour on lead, come
back into the home only to soil the floor.

Take him on a grass plot, or over ashes,
or along a route where other dogs have
been and left souvenirs of their presence,
unseen writing which only dogs can read.
If you can take him out with a house-
broken dog, the training is made easier.

Catch Culprit in Advance

Watch him in the house. Do not wait
until he has done the damage. If you are
observant, you can receive advance notice
of the oncoming crime ; then with a shout
and a hurry, rush him outdoors.

The chief idea to be transplanted into
the seeming hollow-head is that the of-
fense is not in relieving himself but in
doing this natural, logical and necessary
act indoors.

Once the crime has been committed, you
can talk to him roughly and hurry him
outdoors but this is not the better method.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pail
of soap and water.

On the very first day, place some soiled
newspapers or a little low box with saw-
dust or refuse in it and let him do his
duty there. After the first time he con-
nects the two and in most cases goes
there with assurance and not a little
pleasure. It is only a short course of
training from this paper course to the
outdoor curriculum.

The dog can be kept in the kitchen, on
a linoleum floor for a few days if de-
sired until he becomes somewhat house-
broken.

In severe cases, the dog can be placed
at night in a small box in which he can-
not move; then he can be let out the first
thing in the morning. Few dogs soil their
own bed.

Every dog in time completes the course
and becomes a gentleman, if not by na-
ture at least by training — ^which cannot
be said of all members of the human race.

In conclusion, in the matter of house-
breaking, have in mind that there are ten
parts in the training and nine of these are
patience. It may require as much as thirty
days for the dog to become reliably house-
broken, with occasional relapse not to be
unexpected — but he finally "graduates,"

7— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

IV.— TRAINING THE PUPPY

Obedience is Basis of Training

Logically we could present this subject
in precedence to housebreaking ; it is
obedience. At first, the dog, like a hu-
man, does what he thinks he can "get
away with." In many cases, the certain-
ty of punishment keeps him from such
acts as soiling, chewing a curtain, eating
from the kitchen table, and yet, most acts
of the dog are done willingly, gladly, with
pleasure and out of the great overpower-
ing desire which every dog has — to win
the approval, the pat of the hand, and
the kindly spoken word of the master.

Disobedient Dog a Nuisance

The foundation of all training of dogs is
obedience. The dog must obey commands,
obey them promptly and definitely.

A disobedient dog causes trouble to all ;
he dashes across the street, perhaps is
killed by an automobile ; he tears up the
flowers in the neighbor's garden ; he leaps
up on people and soils their clothes with
his front paws ; he barks needlessly so that
the neighbors cannot sleep ; he is an irri-
tation even to his family.

A disobedient dog is a serious reflection
upon the master for, to a substantial ex-
tent, the statement is true, "Like master
like dog."

Begin your system of training early —
on the day the puppy joins your house-
hold. Maintain it day after day, indeed
act after act, for one exception is like
one fly in a bowl of soup — too many.

Obedience is the vital accompaniment of
every act of training ; hence we discuss it
as the silent partner of every act of
training.

Many books have been written on train-
ing the dogs. The author has written the
book Training the Dog, now in its sev-
enth large edition. Consequently, here is
given only a brief summary of the most
important considerations in moulding the
dog's mind.

Punish and Reward Promptly

When yoa punish your dog, punish him
instantly after the deed so that he con-
nects the deed and the punishment. Pup-
pies have short memories.

If the dog does his work well, always
reward him; a pat on the head or a kind-
ly spoken word are as gold to the dog

the only pay he wants.

Never strike a dog on the head or back-
bone. Use the palm of your hand or a
rolled newspaper. Use a rough voice with
your punishment for in many cases the
verbal reprimand affects the dog more than
does physical punishment.

Much Shouting Bewilders

Commands should be short in words and
plainly spoken. The same command should
be given for the same purpose at all
times. Do not shout your commands or
lose your temper or give too many com-
mands at one time. Control yourself if
you wish to control the dog.

17 Training Don'ts

We give here seventeen training don'ts
from the author's Training the Dog:

1. DON'T punish your dog while you
arc angry or lack control of yourself.

2. DON'T punish your dog with the lead
or any instrument of training or anything
he should associate with duty or pleasure.

3. DON'T sneak up on your dog or grab
him from the rear, or surprise him or
reach for him quickly.

4. DON'T chase your dog to catch him ;
he must come to you or run after you.

5. DON'T coax your dog to you and
then turn upon him with the whip ; you
will regret the deception.

6. DON'T trick or fool or taunt your
dog. It is cruel and inconsistent to tease
your dog to come to you when he can not.

7. DON'T punish a dog by stepping on
his paws needlessly ; they are exceedingly
sensitive. Don't twist his ears playfully
or otherwise. Never strike him on the
backbone, on the ears, or in the face.

8. DON'T nag your dog ; don't be giving
orders to him constantly; don't pester him
with your shoutings.

9. DON'T praise a dog for doing a cer-
tain act, then at a later time, scold him
for doing the same act.

10. DON'T train your dog immediately
or soon after he has eaten.

11. DON'T lose patience with a puppy
younger than six months, or train him in
feats requiring strength and endurance.

12. Never throw or kick a puppy nor
lift him by the head or leg or skin of the
neck.

13. DON'T work your dog without some
short rest or play periods during the period
of training. A five-minute rest for every
fifteen minutes of training is desirable.

14. DON'T permit evei-yone and anyone
to give commands to your dog. While you
are training him, he must be a one-man
dog, depending on you to feed him and
care for him.

15. DON'T consider tricks the chief ob-
ject of training. Usefulness is the object
sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts
that spring naturally from the dog's
instincts are to be fostered.

16. DON'T expect your dog to be a
wonderful dog after a few weeks of train-
ing ; four months to a year may be nec-
essary in order to make the master proud
of him, but the work is worth the effort.
Training never ends.

17. DON'T jump to the conclusion that
your dog is dumb. He may differ with you,
believing that the trainer should know
more than the dog.

Muddy Feet on Best Settee

Let us mention briefly some specific acta
of training which concern the proper con-
duct of the dog, particularly in the home
and on the street.

Dogs are epicureans and sensualists.
They seek to get the utmost joy out of
life. Consequently they soon find your
softest cushions and upholstered chairs.

Once the dog has gotten upon the chair.

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARES

rush to him, amidst loud clamor, give him
a quick slap on the rump and scold him
considerably. Do not, out of a kind heart,
make an exception ; either he must stay
off all the furniture all the time or your
efforts are in vain. As an alternative,
have one particular chair which is his at
all times.

You purchase a pair of shoes downtown
out of the pin money you have been saving
for several weeks. And behold ! this after-
noon the puppy is chewing on these fragile
dainties. What to dol You can scold him
and punish him, and you should do so.

Puppies like to chew ; their teeth are
slowly breaking thru the gums into the
permanent teeth. The nature of the dog
is to delight in exercising his jaws. His
mouth also gives him his chief method of
doing things — it is his hands.

Suggestions on Toys

Give the dog something to chew on — an
old glove, an old shoe, lubber toys that
cannot be easily torn apart, rubber balls
(but they must be very large so that they
cannot be swallowed), an old stocking
stuffed with rags (this is ideal).

Beware of toys which are varnished, or
chip off easily, or which the dog can swal-
low in whole or in part, for soon he will
do this very thing.

Teaching to Protect Home

You want your dog to be useful as well
as ornamental, to be both companion and
protection. Teach him to be a watchdog,
encourage him to bark when the doorbell
rings or when he hears strange and un-
usual sounds. Do so by appearing excited,
by whispered urgings to him to rush for-
ward. Where the dog is alone and has not
the company of other dogs, sometimes he
is inclined not to be watchful.

It is better to have a dog sharp and
aggressive than to be the inattentive dog.
An overfed and underexercised dog, espe-
cially if he has met many strangers, be-
comes unwatchful, altho the nature of the
dog is to be suspicious and sharp. Too
many human contacts dull the edge of
canine alertness.

The Tramp Dog

Soon or late you must teach your puppy
not to be a tramp. Dogs like to wander
about, particularly to meet other dogs ;
they dislike solitude.

It may be necessary to have your dog
tied up several hours a day. Be on the
lookout so that you can stop him each time
he reaches the property line. Above all,
feed him always at home, at the same
place, so that he will wish to stay at home
in order to be handy for the chow call.

Teaching to Lead

Usually a puppy must be trained to
wear a collar and to walk on lead. Put a
collar on him for a few days and do
nothing more. Then in play, as tho run-
ning with him, attach a lead to the collar
and play with him so that he does not con-
nect the lead with any special thing you
are seeking to teach him. Walk about
unconcernedly with him.

Sometimes a dog holds back and for
days refuses to walk on lead. You might

just as well forget your kind heart : con-
sider that his hindquarters are tough and
that you can drag him along for a con-
siderable distance, but will not do harm
even tho he skids on the cement.

The Dog on the Street

On the street, keep your dog on lead,
always on your left. Have him stop at
each curb, and do not let him cross until
you say "go." When your dog is off lead,
even on your own premises, keep him
within a hundred feet of you at all times
lest he get out into traffic and trouble.

To Lessen Poisoning Danger

The dog always should have a certain
place where he is fed and he should always
eat out of the same dishes. He should be
fed at regular scheduled hours. He should
not eat at any other time. This lessens the
liability of poisoning outdoors, tends to
keep the dog at home, and makes it easy
to break him of the habit of wishing he
could eat at all times of the day and
particularly in the dining room during
eating hours.

If he picks up an eatable in the alley,
give hjm a prompt slap ; this may save
his life later.

Dogs and Automobiles

If your dog is inclined to fight other
dogs or to chase moving objects, punish-
ment may lessen or remove the desire.

Observe the dog or object before your
dog does ; keep him near you so that he
will not start upon the chase. In persistent
cases, have a friend in the auto shoot off
a tear gas cartridge or a water gun with
a bit of ammonia into the dog's face.

To accustom your dog to riding in the
automobile, do not feed or water him with-
in six hours of his first ride. Simply take
him with you in the automobile. Dogs
learn to behave and quickly take delight in
riding. Give a sodium bromide when
starting on the trip if he is inclined to be
nervous.

Make a Pal of Your Dog

For the complete training of your dog,
it is necessary that he has full confidence
in you, that he believes in you as a demi-
god, that he thinks you can do no wrong.
Consequently, he should never be fooled.
Always do the expected thing — follow rou-
tine.

Take him with you on every occasion.
Accustom him to loud and strange noises
and strange scenes. When he begins to
appear nervous, speak to him kindly, give
him a pat on the head ; he soon learns
that there is nothing to be feared when
you are with him.

If this complete understanding be had
between man and dog, much of the trouble
of. the dog's behavior is taken away.

Make him a dependable companion and
servant in the automobile, on the street, in
the home, with strangers or wherever you
happen to be with him.

In all general training matters, use com-
mon sense; use the same methods which
you. would use in training your own child.
Always remember that you should look at
the situation from the dog's viewpoint.
Keep his limitations in mind.

9— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

v.— LIVING QUARTERS FOR PUPPY

What quarters should be given to the
doer? On the very first day he is received
into the home, take him thru Ihe house,
accustom him to the various rooms and
objects, and then assign a certain place
to him as his very own sleeping quarters.
Place a rug, blanket or piece of cloth there
as a bed. He soon learns to clain\ it as
his own. If necessary, tie him to the spot
for the first few days.

Sleeping quarters should not be at the
top of a stairway, not near the radiator,
not at any place where there is a constant
draft, should not be on cement, metal, or
other cold objects, and if the room is
drafty, the bed should be a few inches
above the floor with side pieces to ward
off the draft.

The use of cushions or stuffed materials,
unless stuffed with cedar shavings or the
like, which can be renewed frequently.

should not be used. Make \ise of rugs,
blankets and the like which can be sunned
and aired at least once a week. Straw
is preferable to hay bedding and should
be changed once a week.

Either All In or AU Out

You may give the puppy his favorite
chair but keep him off all other chairs.
You can find him a place in the basement
and give him a box near the furnace. You
can keep him outdoors if you wish, in an
unheated kennel house or box which is free
from draft and dampness and is not ex-
posed to rain.

A dog should be kept outdoors as his
living quarters all the time or indoors all
the time. Do not mix the two except of
course as weather, special conditions, and
so forth modify the rule.

VI— EXERCISING THE PUPPY

A sluggish, lazy dog is an abomination.
Dogs by nature are alert, active creatures.
Living under the easy conditions of mod-
ern life, a dog must not become a victim
of our civilization. Every dog should have
plenty of physical exercise in order to keep
in excellent physical condition.

Overfeeding the dog brings on fatness
and laziness. Lack of exercise brings on
digestive troubles, bad breath, constipation,
lack of watchfulness, and in general, tends
toward both physical and mental "soft-
ness."

Take out Three Times Daily

A dog should be taken out at least three
times a day — at least fifteen minutes in
the morning, at noon and night Prefer-
ably he should be permitted off the lead so
that he can run about here and there, for

your dog, while you travel cne block,
travels three or four times as much dis-
tance altho he keeps near to you.

Methods of Exercise

Give the dog a large rubber ball, give
him a stuffed stocking, let him leap up
after a stick, let him retrieve a ball. If
possible let him play with a neighboring
dog. Let him romp with the children.
Occasionally take him out in the country
and let him run thru the fields. A dog
may get "dog-tired" but there cannot be
any serious consequences from excessive
exercise by the dog.

You can put the snap end of his lead
or chain on an overhanging wire in the
yard so that he can run back and forth
but not out of the yard.

VII.— GROOMING AND BATHING THE DOG

Grooming the dog includes the work of
earing for his coat or hair and keeping his
skin in healthy condition. It includes also
the trimming of toe nails.

Comb Dry Hair Only

Combs should not be used greatly on the
dog's coat- They should not be used when
the coat is wet or immediately after the
bath for they tend to pull out too much
hair. A comb should be used only on a
dry coat and principally when the dog is
shedding the coat.

Kinds of Brushes

The chief implement for grooming the
dog is the brush. It should be about one
inch long for shortcoated dogs, about one
and one-half inches long for longcoated
dogs. Bristles should be soft for a silky
coat, medium hard for an ordinary coat,
and stiff and hard for a wiry or bristly
coat.

Value of Daily Brushing

Nothing can be emphasized more strongly
than that the dog shoald be brushed vig-
oroasly for a few minutes, not occasionally
bnt every day of his life.

First the coat can be brushed opposite of
the lay and then the finishing touches be
given in the direction of the coat. Use
short, slow movements until the coat is
"laid," then finish up with vigorous mo-
tion and plenty of elbow-bending, working
the ends of the bristles down to the skin
itself if possible. The dog likes the
"brush bath."

Brushing removes dandruff from the
hair, cleans and invigorates the skin, and
permits the natural oil of the hair to move
from the roots into the hair.

Bathing Don'ts

Bathing the dog is a subject about which
everyone inquires. The daily brushing
eliminates much of the necessity for bath-
ing. In warm weather, a dog, particu-
larly a long-coated dog, can be bathed
once a week and in cold weather, once
every ten days if kept indoors ; if kept
outdoors, double the period between baths.

A puppy can be and should be bathed
as early as six weeks of age. Just how.
where or when the popular belief origi-
nated that a puppy should not be bathed,
is a mystery. The idea is piffle.

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE— 10

Do not bathe a dog needlessly. Do not
use strong soap. Do not bathe the dog
when it has an irritated or bad skin con-
dition.

Method of Bathing

In bathing the dog, use medium warm
water. Place the dog carefully into the
tub. Soap his coat well before you put the
water on the dog. It is well to start with
the feet and hindquarters and finish with
the ears and face.

After you have soaped the coat and
then applied the water with vigorous rub-
bing either with your hand or with a soft
brush or a cloth, then drain the water out
of the tub and rinse the coat with clean
warm water. Be careful around the eyes
and ears.

You can let him shake himself a bit in
the bathtub, as this takes off some of the
• water, but if he doesn't do it here, seize
him promptly and throw a towel about
him for he will do it over the floor and
your carpet the moment he is out of the
bathtub.

Hair Dried to the Roots

Now comes perhaps the most important
instruction concerning the bathing of the
dog. Rub the dog dry. The coat is not
dry until the hair even down to the very
roots in the skin is dry. Particularly on a
longcoated dog, the outer surface may be
dry and yet the hair carry moisture around
the roots. The consequence may be a
severe cold, particularly if the dog is not
in a warm place and free from draft. An

electric dryer can be used to hurry along
the drying.

In cold weather a dog, whether long-
coated or shortcoated, should be dried well
and kept in the house at least two hours
after the bath.

Dry bathing with sand, cornmeal, saw-
dust or specially prepared commercial
powders can be recommended also.

Long Toe Nails

If he gets plenty of outdoor running, his
toenails will not grow so long that they
become curved, spread his toes apart, and
cause him to walk as tho he were lame.

However, if your dog's toenails are too
long, cut them with a heavy shears, a
special nail clipper, or file them top and
bottom until the filed line breaks thru.
Cut off about one-third the length — keep
"in the white."

Should not be "Sissies'^

We are not recommending the use of
blankets, coats and sweaters for the dog.
Only when a dog has been ill or when it
is very shortcoated and has little exercise,
or is feeble from old age, should a covering
be used.

We believe that every dog in normal
health, even a shortcoated dog, and in the
coldest weather, should not use blanket or
sweater. Dogs should have by nature a
certain amount of stamina which makes
them vigorous, useful and hardy.

As soon as the dog is taken outdoors, he
should be urged to run freely so that the
circulation of the blood balances the change
between the warm house and the outdoors.

VIII.— DISEASES OF THE DOG

If the puppy is properly fed, properly
groomed and properly quartered, as we
have set forth on the preceding pages, the
probability of illness is lessened greatly.
But we repeat that the puppy is a young,
sensitive bit of life, which quickly can be
turned from health to sickness.

_ In the following discussion, we can men-
tion briefly only some of the more impor-
tant and common ailments.

Give Both a Fair Chance

First of all, use common sense and ordi-
nary treatment and do so early, as soon
as the first symptoms of illness appear.

Do not wait too long before taking your
puppy to the veterinarian. Too often the
dog is taken to the veterinary hospital
when it is near death; then not even the
best veterinarian can save the life of the
dog. Yet when the dog dies, the owner is
inclined to blame the veterinarian.

Instructions given now are merely by
way of precaution and early attention, de-
signed as first aid and most of all, to
keep a well dog well.

Worms and the Puppy

Worms are the bane of a puppy's exist-
ence. It is safe to say that all dogs have

• // the tables were turned and the dogs were the "superior*' beings

11— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

worms and it is possible for puppies to be
born carrying round worms within them
from the mother's womb.

The ssmiptoms of worm infestation are
not alwajrs clear. If the puppy is continu-
ally pot-bellied, his coat dry or lacks oil
and lustre, if he rubs himself frequently
on his haunches, and if segments of
worms are seen in the feces, there is evi-
dence that worms are present. The veter-
inarian can examine the feces for worm
eggs.

How Often to Worm

Some breeders worm their puppies as
early as six weeks. At least the puppy
should be wormed shortly after being
weaned, then at six months, then at twelve
months and once a year thereafter.

Whether or not you see evidence of
worms in the feces, it is well to worm the
puppy. Most of the preparations obtain-
able at the drug store or from the veter-
inarian are acceptable. An overdose should
be avoided.

Method of Worming

Most of these remedies work best when
the intestinal tract is free from contents.
Consequently, a puppy should bo wormed
on an empty stomach. Feed the puppy in
the evening, then worm in the morning ;
follow within a half hour with a laxative
or purgative, such as castor oil or Epsom
salts or mineral oil.

Do not give the puppy food or water
until about two hours after the worming.

Follow-up Often Advisable

If the puppy is heavily infested, it is
well to repeat the worming in about ten
days for the worms which have developed
after the first worming, will then be re-
moved also.

Kinds of Worms

Round or stomach worms are the most
common. These are white or pinkish,
varying in length from an inch to six
mches and of about the thickness of white
wrapping twine.

Tapeworm is not nearly so common as
roundworm. It is a flat worm made up of
segments. Usually the same remedy which
removes roundworms will not remove tape-
worms. However, the commercial prepa-
rations give full instructions regarding
this.

Hookworms and whipworms are not
common but are serious if present.

Heartworm has made its appearance in
this country— a threadlike white worm
which infests heart and lungs. The drug
fuadin is usually curative if given in the
early stage.

Distemper Greatest Scourge

We come now to what long has been the
curse of the dog — the dreaded distemper.
It is a disease somewhat similar to in-
fluenza in humans. Practically all dogs
contract this disease and usually before
they are six months old. One attack brings
on immunity from later attacks. How it
is spread is sometimes a mystery for a dog
may contract distemper without coming in
contact with other dogs. Likely the germ
*8 genital — born with the dog.

Symptoms of distemper are varied. The
dog usually has a running at the nose and
the eyes, has a fever, the skin is hot
and dry to the touch, appetite is gone, the
dog lies about listless.

Tonics and not Cures

Many preparations in the past have been
mostly condition remedies which clean out
the intestines and bowels and increase the
heart action in order to keep up the vi-
tality of the dog. In their way they give
aid but they do not cure distemper. There
is yet no cure known for distemper.

Inoculation Advisable

It is heartily advisabie that a dog be in-
oculated against distemper. Fortunately
inoculation which is effective in about 90%
of the cases now prevents distemper en-
tirely or gives the dog a light attack of it.
Every puppy should be inoclulated at about
the age of three months.

Most methods require three injections-
vaccine (killed virus) as temporary im-
munity ; ten days later, a stronger injec-
tion ; and ten days thereafter, an injection
of live virus.

Fits a Strange Ailment

Running fits or canine hysteria became
very common in this country about the
year 1927 and still is common. Do not
confuse it with epilepsy and rabies.

The dog which has fits may froth at the
mouth, run about wildly, bark loudly, shy
away from everything and try to hide
under a dresser, and may even tun around
in circles until he falls down, his legs
stiffen, and they move as tho they were
pedaling a bicycle.

Running fits is a strange disease. The
nature and cure of it are not fully known.
There is no danger to humans ; a bite by a
dog that has fits is not dangerous any
more than an ordinary ('.og bite.

Such conditions as worms, indigestion,
lack of exercise, and improper diet may
bring it on.

Treatment for Fits

Keep the dog quiet, keep him in a some-
what dark place free from draft. Give him
a laxative, reduce the amount of food,
give very little water, and feed mostly
raw meat after you have fasted the dog
for as long as forty-eight hours. Injection
of vitamin Bl (thiamin) is helpful and
can be considered a satisfactory treat-
ment.

The disease is seldom fatal and the dog
usually outgrows it after a few months.
A dog may have as many as two or three
fits a day ; and each may last as long as
flve minutes to thirty minutes. In severe
cases, the veterinarian will administer a
sedative. If the dog is in the midst of a
fit, shake him violently, massage him vig-
orously; this tends to pull him out of it.
Aspirin tablets and calcium gluconate
tablets can be given also for temporary
relief.

Skin Troubles Common

Diseases of the skin are extremely im-
portant. After digestive troubles, skin
troubles come next as the chief concern
in the health of the dog.

• A bushel of airedale puppies

The dogr sweats mostly through the
tongrue; the skin does not carry away im-
purities as does the skin of the human
body. Also, if dogs are kept in heated
places and under artificial conditions,
there is more tendency toward skin
eruptions.

Skin ailments include eczema, mange,
bald spots, excessive shedding of coat, itch-
ing and other irritated conditions of the
skin.

Treatment for the Skin

Do not bathe a dog which has serious
skin trouble ; a mild castile soap, free
from chemicals, should be used for tem-
porary relief.

If the coat is long, it can be clipped
over the affected spot so that the skin can
be treated more directly.

A change in diet should be made when
there is serious skin trouble, altho it is
true that the effect of diet upon a skin
condition is greatly exaggerated. A com»
plete internal cleansing thru giving milk
of magnesia or other light laxative every
second day during ten days will help
greatly.

Skin Conditions are Stubborn

Many skin lotions and ointments are
available. Sulphur ointment, Whitfield's
ointment, zinc oxide ointment, surgical
dusting powder, fuller's earth (kaolin),
ordinary vaseline, olive oil, sulfa oint-
ment—any one or more rubbed well into
the skin every day with the fingertips over
a period of two to three weeks usually
will bring some relief. Skin ailments are
stubborn things and cannot be cured over-
night.

Chronic dry eczema, particularly at the
base of the ear, can be treated by the ap-
plication twice a day of sugai' of lead, a
white liquid obtainable at the druggist's
or the veterinarian's.

Indigestion

Indigestion, of course, is a digestive
trouble. Change the diet of the dog,
usually to a harder food such as dry
biscuit. Give less water. Underfeed rather
than overfeed. Give a laxative first as

an intestinal cleanser. And best of all —
fast your dog for twenty-four hours ; it's
not any cruelty in the least. You your-
self try it occasionally.

Fleas and Their Relatives

Fleas, lice, ticks and chiggers are ex-
ternal parasites that plague the dog. Fleas
may be a matter of joke, but not to the
dog. The bite is not as painful as the
after effects, irritated by scratching.

Constant daily brushing will help great-
ly in lessening vermin. There are many
commercial preparations available, which
one can obtain at the druggist's or the
veterinarian's. These usually contain sul-
phur, creosote, sulphate nicotine, naphtha-
lene, pyrethum, or rotenone.

They should be applied once a day for
at least eight days and be brushed well
down to the skin. Relnfestation makes
elimination a problem. Clean all bedding
and equipment. Scrub all cracks and cor-
ners.

Rickets and Cod Liver Oil

Rickets is a disease of the bones, en-
larging them particularly at the joints.
Plenty of sunshine and plenty of cod liver
oil are specific treatments for this
disease. This should be kept up daily for
two to three months.

Eyes That Water

Watery eyes often indicate nothing more
serious than a slight cold which will pass
away with the day. For general eye trou-
ble, a 5% solution of argyrol or a boric
acid solution (powder in water) can be
applied two or three times daily for sev-
eral days.

Ears Down and Up

Ears should not cause much concern.
One ear will be down and the other up.
particularly at teething time — about the
age of five to seven months. Usually by
the age of ten months both ears have their
permanent posture of carriage. Massag-
ing helps very little and mechanical con-
trivances not at all.

Milk Teeth Loosen

The dog loses its thin, white milk teeth
from the age of three months on to five
months. If they become loose in the gums
pull them out with your fingers or a
small pliers.

Beginning as early as five months of
age, the dog gets his permanent or second
teeth. These cause considerable pain as
they break thru the gums. The ears may
be affected in that they will not remain
erect. The dog rubs his mouth with his
paw. Let him chew on cooked bones or a
hard rubber ball.

Rabies Rare but Dreadful

We come now to the last of our diseases,
namely, rabies. Rabies is very, very rare,
yet it does exist and is a terrible disease.
The rabid dog, as a rule, does not roam
about fighting eagerly. He fights mostly
when things come in contact with him.

It is possible but not always easy to
note the oncoming of rabies. The dog
changes his disposition, his eyes become
glassy, he sits on his haunches and looks
appealingly ; his bark may become husky ;
a colorless drool may come from his
mouth. Under these conditions the dog
should be tied up securely and the veter-
inarian consulted immediately.

13— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

However, rabies can be contracted only
by an actual bite of a rubid dofif. It doe»
not come of its own accord. It is not con-
tagious and the dog's system does not con-
tain the germ or virus. The ordinary dog
bite carries no danger other than external
infection.

Should Puppy be Spayed?

Where a dog is not wanted for breeding
purposes, or where there is strong objec-
tion to the seasonal heat of the bitch
twice a year, a bitch can be spayed. This
should be done about the age of seven
months, just before the first heat. This

age is true also of males (castration) as
opportunity should be given for the sex
characteristics to be developed before the
dogs are altered. On the whole, we do not
recommend sex alteration.

Soda and Its Many Uses

Ordinary baking soda is excellent to be
placed in the bath, especially where the
dog has dry itchy skin and there are no
sore spots noticeable. Baking soda is
excellent for cleaning the teeth and the
gums. Also it can be placed in a warm
solution for washing out the bowels by
enema.

IX.— FEEDING THE PUPPY

We come now to the most important
consideration in the care of the poppy.
Tiraining the pappy is important. Groom-
ing is important. Yet the dog's health
is more ritally connected with his diet
and his stomadi than with any other part
of the dog or any other consideration of
care.

Puppies can be received in the best of
spirits and within two days be ill of diges-
tive trouble. A puppy eats everything, is
always seemingly hungry, and conse-
quently his young and tender stomach
revolts.

Feeding the Puppy

Much of the dog's pleasure in life is in
eating and half his health lies in his diet.
The puppy indeed is the world's most
pleading beggar. His tummy may be burst-
ing, yet he will look up at you with staring
eyes as tho he were starving to death.
You will do him a great disfavor if he
conquers you and you give him something
to eat.

Gulping not a Vice

First of all, the dog's saliva contains
little pitalin. Consequently, chewing is of
small value to the dog's digestive system.
Gulping of food is not a vice in the dog.

If your puppy vomits, ordinarily it is
not a serious matter. Let him vomit —
and eat it if he wishes.

How Often to Feed

How often should a puppy be fed? From
six weeks, the weaning time, to ten weeks
old, puppies may be fed five times a day.

From ten weeks to four months, four
times a day; from four months to eight
months, three times a day ; from eight
months to fifteen months, twice a day ;
thereafter, once a day.

Small breeds seldom mature before the
age of fifteen months ; and large-sized
breeds, twenty-four months.

If your dog does not have an appetite,
just let him miss a meal or underfeed him
for a few days.

Regular Schedule Desirable

The hours for feeding, whether the dog
be fed one or five times a day, should be
the same day after day.

If the dog is excited and nervous, or
exhausted from exercise, let him rest
for a whole hour before feeding.

Dishes for Food and Water

Keep the food dish and the water dish
clean. A heavy flat dish with the outside
bottom wider than the top rim, cannot be
toppled over and cannot be moved easily.
Do not use the food dish as a water dish.

Most important — remove the food dish
and all food out of sight as soon as the
dog has finished. Do not have food avail-
able at any time other than the regular
hours.

It is well to pick up the water pan
immediately after the puppy has drunk.
There is a tendency for puppies to drink
too much and in turn their digestive system
is upset. A puppy should have water
about five times a day until the age of
six months ; thereafter, four times a day.
Milk can be substituted for several of these
but not all.

Do not let your dog acquire the habit of
eating anywhere else except at home, out
of his own dish, and at the regular time.
Punish him promptly and severely if he
attempts to pick up anything outdoors.
This training may save him later from
the horrible death of poisoning.

Bones and the Dog

We do not care greatly to feed bones to
dogs, altho in this respect we are guilty of
rank heresy. Dogs like to chew and eat
bones ; yet in many cases these bones do
damage to the intestines.

Bones should be well cooked and should
be large. Small bones should not be given
to the dog for he will gulp these down.
Chicken bones, rabbit bones and fish bones
should never be fed, regardless of size.
These break into sharp points ; they may
lodge in the throat or tear the intestines.

Elements of Canine Diet

What should a dog eat? Today the dog
is acquiring all the earmarks and mouth-
marks of civilization and like his human
examples, eats most anything. However,
the day has passed when the table scraps
or whatever is left over, form the com-
plete diet of the dog.

There are three general food groups— 1.
proteins or nitrogen ; 2. carbohydrates or
starches ; 3. fats and oils.

Do not pay too much attention to vita-
mins. Their scarcity has been exaggerated.
If one feeds the foods which are mentioned
hereinafter, all the vitamins will be con-
tained in the diet. However, conditioners

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE— 14

and mineral salts always can be added to
the diet; this is true also of cod liver oil
and dehydrated vegetables. Also butter-
milk and liquid srarlic are meritorious con-
ditioners and somewhat antiseptic.

Dog Biscuit has Advantages

Dog biscuit (broken up, it is termed kib-
bled), regardless of size, is always excel-
cent for the dog. Occasionally it should
be fed dry as this cleans the dog's teeth
and gives him some chewing exercise. It
is better to have it dry or only slightly
moist except when in the meal condition —
here it is to be mixed with broth, milk,
soup or water into a mush.

Canned Food Needs Variety

Canned dog food (wet food), particular-
ly that of good quality, can be recommend-
ed highly. However, it is not to be fed
constantly day after day, week after week.
Every fifth day there should be a complete
change of diet regardless of what is fed.

Under war conditions (1944) the scarcity
of tin has eliminated canned dog food. The
dehydrated product now available can be
recommended.

Meat Always a Dog's Delight

Above all, meat is chief in the canine
diet. When you are in doubt or when your
dog lacks appetite, give him meat, either
raw or cooked, preferably ground or cut
into small pieces. Never give fried or
seasoned meat.

Beef, mutton, and horse meat are excel-
lent meats. Tripe, if well boiled, can be
fed to puppies as a mixture with other
food. Liver and heart should be fed
weekly as these contain valuable vitamins.
Eggs raw or preferably soft boiled can be
added to the food but only occasionally.

Milk is excellent for dogs as it is for
humans. Altho with some dogs, as is true
of some humans, drinking of milk brings
an upset stomach.

Vegetables O.K. if Eaten

The place of vegetables in the dog's
diet has been greatly exaggerated. How-
ever, such vegetables as tomatoes, lettuce,
spinach and onions can be fed along with
meat but they preferably should be fed
cooked in with meat.

Vegetables should be a minor part of the
dog s diet. Dogs like humans should be
fed those things which they like only if
those foods have nutritional value.

Judge Food by Results

When we say nutritional value, we mean
foods that not only fill and satisfy hunger
but that are assimilated to a great extent
with little refuse passed thini the bowels,
and that also build up the dog not only in
flesh but also in stamina and the ability
to reproduce as breeders. Wellshaped, not
too soft bowel evacuations indicate a good
intestinal condition.

Some Don'ts in Foods

At no time should the following foods
be fed to a dog— sweets, puddings, fish
bones, chicken bones, rabbit bones, pas-
tries, candy, chocolate, fried foods, spiced
or heavily seasoned foods.

Potatoes Lump in Stomach

Potatoes should be fed sparingly as dogs
will not chew them ; the tendency is for
the potatoes to mass in a lump in the
intestines and not be digested readily.

For the Ailing Dog

If your dog is convalescing or is seri-
ously ill, give very little water to drink.
Chopped raw beef is excellent. Boiled lamb
with barley broth in it will be eaten by
almost any sick dog.

An enema every second day is recom-
mended also for the ailing dog to aid in
cleaning out the bowels. Use lukewarm
water slightly soaped.

What Quantity to Feed

How much food shall be fed? This
depends upon the individual dog, upon the
breed, upon the amount of exercise, and
upon the general condition of the dog.

It is to be added that regardless of the
breed, for the ages up to about six months,
one should feed mostly milk, ground meat
raw or slightly cooked, soft-boiled eggs,
cereal, any of the commercial "baby
foods," well buttered toast, tomato or
orange juice, and plenty of cod liver oil.

"Baby foods" are excellent in early pup-
py hood. Dog biscuit (dry dog food) can be
included frequently. Canned dog food of
good quality can also be included during
the early months.

Use good judgment and common sense
at all times in determining the quantity to
be fed. Any one of a dozen conditions may
vary the amount.

In very hot weather, reduce the amount
of food one-fourth.

Quantity for Toys

For dogs classed as toy dogs, the quan-
tity to be fed is: from six weeks (weaning
time) to four months, feed four times a
day.

Feed one-half cup of milk and cereal or
"baby food" at each of two meals and for
each of the other two meals about one
and one-half ounces of solid food each
meal.

From four months to eight months, feed
three times a day.

Give a half cup of milk and food for
one meal and three ounces of food for each
of the other two meals.

From eight months to fifteen months,
feed twice a day; one meal, a half cup
of milk and food, and for the other meal,
four ounces of food.

After ^ fifteen months, feed once a day,
about six ounces solid food, giving milk
and bread or cereal for a light lunch in
the morning. Midway between meals, a
biscuit can be chewed on.

Feeding Medium-Sized
Breeds

For the medium-sized breeds and small
breeds larger than toy breeds (maturing
15 to 30 pounds), the following sche'dule
can be maintained:
_ Six weeks to four months, feed four
times a day — a three-quarter cup of milk
and food two times and four ounces of
food for each of the other two. Four
months to eight months, feed three times

15— PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE

Check color
white of eye

ca^rs

for canker La nine LheckuD

Cf&an teet^i

To count
pulse'

Check
heartbeat*

H'ave one
set day per
Tinonth for
checkup.

Trim +oenall5
every 3Tnon+hs

a day — a large cup of milk once and seven
ounces of food twice.

Eight months to fifteen months, feed two
times a day — a large cup of milk with
toast, cereal and commercial dog food, for
one meal, and a generous twelve ounces of
food for the other meal. After fifteen
months, feed a drink of milk in the morn-
ing with light food, and a pound of food
in the late afternoon.

Feeding Large-Sized Dogs

For the large-sized breeds (maturing 31
to 60 pounds) the schedule to be main-
tained is as follows: Six weeks to four
months old, feed four times a day — one
and one-half cups of milk and light food
two times and eight ounces of food for
each of the other two.

Four months to eight months old, feed
three times a day — ^two cups of milk with
light food once, and twelve ounces of food
twice.

Eight months to fifteen months old, feed
two times a day — one and one-half cups of
milk with light food for one meal and
twenty ounces of food for the other meal.
After fifteen months, feed once a day, up
to two pounds of food but give a drink of
milk with light food in the morning.

For breeds maturing 61 to 99 pounds,
increase the foregoing one half.

For extra large breeds (100 to 200
pounds), such as danes, mastiffs, New-
foundlands, St. Bernards and Irish wolf-
hounds, these quantities should easily be
doubled.

Stuff Puppies into Growing

Plenty of feeding will not cause your dog
to be oversized, for heredity determines the
final size of your dog.

It is to be repeated that a puppy to be
led properly should be literally stuffed with
food. We mean that the puppy is growing
and every ounce of energy and every ounce
of extra weight are needed so that the
puppy will grow properly to a healthy
adulthood.

Miscellaneous Feeding Notes

A complete change of diet usually causes
the dog to be laxative, but this is not a
serious condition.

For a stomach tonic, light laxative, and
acid killer, give milk of magnesia twice
weekly.

For checking diarrhea give milk of bis-
muth thrice daily for three days. Feed
cooked meat.

A pinch of salt occasionally thrown Into
the food can be recommended.

Above all, watch the diet of your dog,
for out of the dog's stomach comes most
of his good health.

We shall always maintain that even for
young puppies (as early as five weeks), a
raw lean meat diet is excellent.

Here are some general comments on
dog feeding, either under war conditions
or at other times.

1. Do not believe everything you read
or hear about the feeding of dogs.

2. There is no perfect diet for all dogs
in that individual requirements vary ac-
cording to the environment, exercise and
natural constitution of the dog.

3. To feed a domesticated animal such
as the dog on the same basis as the diet
the dog had by choice or necessity in its
wild life in the woods is illogical. Feed the
dog according to his present life and needs.

4. You must take your choice between
feeding raw or natural meat with all the
proteins and vitamins in full strength, or
cooking the meat and thereby eliminating
any worm condition, although the vitamin
(A and C) efficiency may be reduced
(protein values suffer little).

5. Vitamins are not cure-alls. They have
been over-emphasized and exaggerated.
Any well-balanced meal usually contains
sufficient vitamins.

6. Just because a dog likes a food and
eats it greedily does not mean that it is
the best food for him, particularly over a
period of time.

7. A pressure cooker should be used more
frequently as it permits the cooking of
meat and bones so thoroly that the bones
can be crushed by hand pressure and the
entire contents fed to the dog without the
usual dangers from eating of bones.

8. Digestibility — raw meat is more easily
digested than cooked meat. Lean meat is
digested more quickly than fat meat. Egg,

PUPPIES AND THEIR CARE— 16

Digestive System

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particularly the albumen, is not easily ab-
sorbed and most of it passes out through
the bowels. Cottage cheese is quickly
digested.

9 Special note — small lumps of meat are
more readily assimilated than is ground
or hashed meat.

10. Fats are easily digested by dogs, but
fats should not comprise more than a
fourth of the weight of the food fed to
the dog.

11. Liver is always a very desirable part
of the dog's diet and should be fed at
least once weekly.

CONCLUSION— STILL MAN'S BEST FRIEND

It's Worth All the Worry

Bringing up a puppy to doghood is an
achievement and also a practical course in
teaching. One becomes a master of ani-
mal psychology and an expert in peda-
gogy.

But the work and the worry, the clean-
ing up after the puppy, the reprimands
and the disappointments — all are worth-
while and are well repaid by the dog as he
develops into an appreciative, loyal, obe-
dient, faithful member of the household.

Nearest to Man of All

A little soft warm bundle of fur which
came into your home greatly frightened,
biologically one of the beasts of the field,
has almost bridged the wide gap between
the human race and the animal kingdom.

He has come out of the fields and forests
of his ancestors to live by your side in the
midst of modern civilization ; and he makes
the adjustment splendidly.

There is no other instance of such great
progress from one stage to another as that
of the dog, which adjusts himself to all the
needs and desires of man. He comes from
savagery to civilization within the short
period of twelve months and indeed repre-
sents man's greatest achievement over the
animal kingdom.

Give that four-footed nrtember of your
family the consideration and care to which
you are obligated ; and when in old age h«
moves slowly, his eyes water, and he
dreams of puppyhood days, his passing on
will be that of a loved and lovable mem-
ber of the family whose soul never knew
dishonesty and deceit.

THE END

Never lift dog
by scruff ^
of neck or
by le^s

Ri^htway
to pickup