Harness repairing

TS

1032

IRLF

ARNESS
REPAIRING

Louis M Roehl

HARNESS REPAIRING

LOUIS M. ROEHL

Supervisor of Farm Shop "Work, New York State College
of Agriculture at Cornell University

ITHACA, N. Y.

THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
MILWAUKEE, WIS.

Copyright 1921

THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
Milwaukee, Wis.

INTRODUCTION

HE development of vocational agricultural education work
in secondary schools under the stimulation of the Federal
Vocational Act has especially directed attention during the
past few years to practical farm shop work for boys enrolled
in these agricultural courses. There has been a rapid move-
ment of this work away from the former manual training
phases which characterized it in many ways in the early stages of
its development. There has been an attempt to determine what tools,
what constructions and what repairs are essential and desirable to
the vocation of farming. It is expected that the farm shop work will
involve the use of such tools as are justifiable on the farm, in such
construction and such repair work as the farmer would ordinarily
engage with profit.

In its first stages this work was largely woodshop work with
forge work added in some places. Lately it has been supplemented
by recognition of the need for harness repair work, soldering repair
work and general construction and repair work involving the use of
tools designed to work cold metal. Rope work is passing from the
stage of many and involved knots and splices to the selection of
knots and splices significant in farm practice.

The author's efforts in this book are additions to the farm shop
work presented in his books " Agricultural Woodworking" and
"Farm Woodwork" along the line of harness repair. Many teachers,
who have seen the necessity of the introduction of work of this
kind, have been at a loss as to what equipment should be provided
and what exercises could find justification in the vocation of farm-
ing. The author's contribution in this book will go far in aiding the
teacher in settling these questions. Many years of experience in
teaching, coupled with a broad contact with the actual field of farm-
ing, make his point of view particularly sound. His technical train-
ing has enabled him to put up a body of information in this book
that should be peculiarly useful to the vocational teacher of agricul-
ture who is concerned with farm shop work.

WM. P. LUSK.

Professor of Agricultural Education,
Mississippi A. and M. College.

494393

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page
Harness Repairing 7-9

Making a Harness Thread 9-14

Making a Stitched Splice 14-19

Attaching a Buckle with a Conway Loop 20

Attaching a Buckle with Rivets and the Riveting Machine 20, 21

Replacing a Hame Clip on a Tug 21, 22

Repairing a Trace or Trace and Tug with Hame Clips and Link 22, 23

Replacing a Broken Hame Staple 24, 25

Use of Buckle Shields 25,26

Repairing the End of a Trace with a Wrot Concord Clip 26

Attaching Heel Chain to Trace with a Hame Clip 27

Repairing a Trace and Tug with a Trace Square and Two Wrot Con-
cord Clips ' 27,28

Splicing a Trace with a Trace Splicer or a Metal Plate 28, 29

Repairing Bottom End of Hame 29

Harness Stitching Clamp to be Used with Metal Vise on Workbench. 29-32

Harness Stitching Clamp to be Used with Farm Shop Workbench

Vise 32

Stitching Clamp and Farm Workbench 32-36

Farm Shop Workbench 36-40

Stitching Horse 41-47

Saw Horse Stitching Clamp 47-51

Cleaning and Oiling a Harness 51, 52

Harness Repair Tools and Harness Repair Parts 53

L

Fig. 1. Typical 'Harnesses with Principal Parts Named.

HARNESS REPAIRING

Just as the individual cobbler can no longer compete with shoe
factories in the manufacture of shoes so the individual harnessmaker
can no longer compete with the factories in the manufacture of har-
nesses. The shoemaker, so-called, is not a shoemaker at all, he is a
shoe mender and spends all of his time doing mending only. So the
harnessmaker, so-called, does repairing of harnesses only. With the
increasing use of power machinery and the decreasing use of horse-
power the harness repair men are rapidly decreasing in number and
many rural communities that were favored with the services of a
first rate harnessmaker a decade ago now have to depend on a shoe
repair man to do their harness repairing or do the work at home on
the farms. The shoe repair man has in most cases not had any train-
ing in the repair of harness and often does not want that kind of
work. It thus more and more becomes the work of the farmer to
repair his own harnesses.

The lessons of this book are not apt to be of interest or great
value to harnessmakers. They are not intended for them. They are
merely a brief series of repair jobs so illustrated and described that
a farmer or farm boy can do the more ordinary repair jobs as they
occur or at a suitable time.

Harness repair parts are carried in most of the local hardware
stores and by the mail order houses and the repair work consists
largely of putting the repair parts on to the harnesses. In addition
to the tools for the repair work it is highly desirable for farmers to
carry those of the repair parts that are most apt to be needed in
emergencies so that repair work may be quickly done.

On all well regulated farms all harnesses are thoroughly cleaned,
oiled and repaired at least once a year. If this is done the harnesses
not only last longer but are less apt to break when time is valuable
for other work in the busy season.

It is felt that the farm boys should learn to clean, oil and repair
harnesses as a part of their shopwork at school and all schools where
farm boys are in attendance should have equipment to make it possi-
ble for them to have such training. If. then, the farms also are
equipped with a few of the repair tools they will be in a fair posi-
tion to take proper care of their harnesses.

There are repair jobs on harnesses that are not covered in these
pages. An attempt has been made to cover the more usual ones only.

Harnesses consist principally of straps and connections and as a
usual thing they wear out where the straps are fastened to the con-
nections. There are about a dozen places where the wear causes
breaks to occur and the farmer who has the tools and repair parts

8 HARNESS REPAIRING

Fig. 1A. Typical Harnesses with Parts Named.

MAKING A HARNESS THREAD 9

at hand and has a fair degree of skill to do repair work has all that
is necessary to keep the harnesses looking well and in good working
condition at all times. The purpose of these lessons, then, is to make
it possible for the farm boy to learn to do the ordinary harness re-
pair jobs.

MAKING A HARNESS THREAD

Material required:

1 ball of linen thread.
Harness wax.
Harness needles.
1 piece of beeswax.

1. Take the end of the thread in the left hand and draw out a
required length — at least five feet. See Frontispiece.

2. With the thumb and index finger of the left hand hold the
thread firmly at a point five feet from the end, or whatever length is

Fig. 2. Untwisting the Thread.

10

HARNESS REPAIRING

Fig. 3. Tearing the Thread.

desired, and untwist the thread by rolling it on the right thigh with
the palm of the right hand. Fig. 2. Watch carefully and stop the
untwisting when all the twist is out of the thread in the six or eight
inches of thread next to the left hand. Then also hold the thread

Fig. 4. Waxing the Ends of the Thread.

MAKING A HARNESS THREAD

11

£/VO
Fig. 5. Method of Holding the Thread and Protecting the End While Twisting.

between the thumb and finger of the right hand at the point six or
eight inches from the left hand. Clasp the thread firmly and tear it.
Fig. 3. If the twist is all out it will tear easily and unevenly. The
unevenness is desirable as it makes it possible to make a fine point
on the finished thread.

3. Draw three, four, five or six threads in like manner; the
number depending on the use to be made of the thread. For tugs
and traces six strands are desirable ; for reins, hip straps, hame straps
and other rather light straps four threads may be used. The threads
should be exactly the same length but in placing them together the
second should project slightly past the first, the third slightly past

Fig. 6. Rolling the Thread on the Thigh to Twist It.

12

HARNESS REPAIRING

the second, etc. This is to provide a fine end to the thread which
when passed through the needle and doubled back will be as small
as possible.

4. Throw the thread over a hook and draw both ends toward
you with ends even. Clasp both ends between the thumb and the top
of the index finger of the left hand and wax the ends by drawing
the wax pad quickly and vigorously over the ends. Fig. 4. Then
twist the ends by rolling each over the right thigh. Fig. 6. Both
ends may be waxed at the same time. The wax is manipulated to the

Fig. 7. Waxing the Thread.

best advantage if a quantity is melted about one-eighth inch thick
onto a piece of leather about the size of the palm of your hand.

5. Draw the two waxed ends apart and while holding one end
with the index finger of the left hand (Fig. 5), twist the other thread
by rolling it on the thigh. Fig. 6. When the one end has been suf-
ficiently twisted place the end of the twisted thread on the index
finger of the left hand (Fig. 5), and give the other end of the thread
the same treatment.

6. Equalize the twist by drawing the thread back and forth

MAKING A HARNESS THREAD

13

around the hook. The purpose of holding the thread is to grip it
firmly and to protect the fine end.

7. Wax the thread. This is accomplished by holding both
ends of the thread with the first two fingers of the left hand. Then
hold the wax pad in the right hand, place the thread on the pad and
press the thread firmly with the ball of the thumb. Fig. 7. Draw
the pad vigorously back and forth over a short piece of thread at
a time. The heat caused by friction melts the wax onto the thread.
When all the thread is waxed remove the pad and draw the thread
vigorously through between the thumb and index finger of the right
hand. This equalizes the wax. Fig. 8.

Fig. 8. Equalizing the Wax.

It will be noted that the thread is sticky and when in this con-
dition won't draw well. This is remedied by rubbing with beeswax.
Do not rub beeswax on the ends as this will prevent the threads
from holding the needles.

8. Thread the needles. This is accomplished by drawing the
end of the thread through the eye of the needle about two inches.

14 HARNESS REPAIRING

Then double the thread back and clamp it close to the needle with
the thumb and index finger of the left hand. Turn the needle between
the thumb and the index finger of the right hand gradually moving
the left hand back on the thread away from the needle. Fig. 9. The
fine end should twist down into the waxed thread so as to be invisible
and secure. If the thread has flat surfaces it is an indication that it
was not twisted sufficiently. The finished thread should be round
and smooth.

Fig. 9. Twisting the End of the Thread Back at the Needle.

MAKING A STITCHED SPLICE

1. Cut the ends of the straps to be spliced, square. This is
accomplished by placing the strap flat on the bench and rolling the
round knife over the point on the strap at which the cut is to be
made. Fig. 10.

2. Skive off the ends by the use of the round knife. The skiv-
ing should be done on the flesh side of the leather which is the rough
side. It is accomplished by placing the strap flat on the bench and
giving the knife a slant of shearcut. Fig. 11. A smooth cut is dif-
ficult to obtain in any other way than by a shearing cut yet it is
essential to neatly finished work. It is suggested that the beginner
practice getting smooth cuts on scraps of waste leather.

A very satisfactory way of skiving the end of a strap is shown
in Fig. 12. Place the strap on a bench hook or board so that the end
is flush with the edge of the bench hook or board, then by holding
the strap firmly with the left hand and the jack plane in the right

MAKING A STITCHED SPLICE

15

hand, as illustrated, the skiving may be done. The plane must be
sharpened to a keen edge to cut the leather satisfactorily.

Fig. 10. Cutting the End of the Strap Square.

3. Place one strap on top of the other so as to lap about two
inches and lay them on the bench with the smooth side up. Hold the
pricking wheel firmly in the right hand and by guiding it against
the edge of the strap space off the stitches the full length of the
splice. Fig. 13.

Fig. 11. Skiving the End of the Strap with the Round Knife.

16

HARNESS REPAIRING

Fig. 12. Skiving the End of the Strap with the Jack Plane.

4. Place the straps in the stitching clamp so as to lap about
two inches with the strap nearest you to the right and with the

Fig. 13. Spacing Off the Stitching with a Pricking Wheel.

MAKING A STITCHED SPLICE

17

marked side of the straps to the right. Clamp the strap so that the
stitches will be rather close to the jaws of the clamps and thus held
firmly.

5. Having prepared the thread and needled the ends make a
hole with the sewing awl through the single strap farthest away
from you in the clamp at a point just beyond the splice. Keep the
awl in your right hand and draw the thread through the hole in the
strap so that an equal length of thread is on each side.

The awls commonly used are diamond shaped. The holes through
the straps are made so that one corner of the hole is about half way
between the top and the point farthest from the worker. A size of
awl should be used which will make a hole sufficiently large to permit
the second needle to pass through freely when the first thread is in
the hole.

Fig. 14A.

Holding Awl and One Needle in Right Hand and Passing Other
Needle Through Hole — View from Side of Workman.

6. Make the second hole through the straps. Place the left
needle in the hole, grab it with the thumb and index finger of the
right hand, draw it about three inches, then hook the hand over it
and draw it about a foot.

7. With both needles and the awl in the right hand, pass the
needle of the right hand thread through the upper corner of the hole,
grab the needle with the left thumb and index finger, draw it
through about three inches, then hook the hand over it and draw it
through as far to the left as the other thread is to the right. Fig.
14A. Keeping the needle and awl in the right hand and the left

18 HARNESS REPAIRING

needle in the left hand grab the threads firmly between the thumbs
and index fingers and draw them up tight. There is little danger
of a beginner drawing them too tight.

8. Continue stitching in this manner until the last stitch
through the two straps. The right hand needle and thread is then
passed through the single strap at a point one stitch beyond the
splice. Fig. 14B.

9. Turn the strap end for end and clamp in place. Cross the
threads on the left side of the strap and bring one thread through a
hole in the single strap just beyond the splice and proceed stitching
as before.

Fig. 14B. Holding Awl and One Needle in Right Hand and Passing the Other
Needle Through Hole — View from Side Opposite Workman.

10. To finish the stitching place the left needle and thread
through as usual, then place the right needle in the hole and when
in this position wind the left thread once or twice around the needle.
Then draw both threads up tight as before. This winding locks the
threads in the leather. Another small hole is then made back on
the splice at a point about %" below the next to the last stitch and
the right thread is passed through, drawn up tight and both threads
cut off close to the strap.

11. Pass the wheel marker over the stitching on the same side

MAKING A STITCHED SPLICE

19

Fig. 15.

Finishing the Stitching by Pressing the Wheel Marker
over the Stitching.

as before, pressing firmly. Fig. 15. Trim the edges with the trim-
ming knife so as to make them smooth. This adds greatly to the
appearance of the work. The appearance may be further improved
by placing the splice flat on the bench or a metal surface and tap-
ping lightly with a hammer.

12. Finish by brushing on a leather stain so that all will be
black.

20

HARNESS REPAIRING

ATTACHING A BUCKLE WITH A CONWAY LOOP

1. Punch a hole at %" from the end of the strap and another
hole about 5" from the hole at the end. Fig. 16.

2. Place the strap through the Conway Loop, beginning at
point A in the illustration, then strip the snap, buckle or D on the

/^/?£05 DOWN

THE LOOP

Fig. 16. Attaching a Buckle with a Conway Loop.

strap with the spring up, bring it back in the loop under the part
which is already in the loop, then press the strap down on the loop,
forcing the pin on the loop through the two holes.

ATTACHING A BUCKLE WITH RIVETS AND THE
RIVETING MACHINE

1. Place the strap on the work bench with the rough or flesh
side up, and with the round knife or jack plane skive about two
inches of the end to a wedge shape.

2. With a straight or round knife or jack knife taper the end
as shown at A in Fig. 17.

3. Punch two holes with the belt punch about V apart, the
first one about 2y2" from the end of the strap. B in Fig. 17.

4. Fold the end back so that the holes line up and hold firmly
with the left hand; then cut an opening into the folded end to re-
ceive the tongue of the buckle as shown at C in Fig. 17.

5. Place the buckle on the strap as shown at D in Fig. 17.

6. Drop a tubular harness rivet in the riveting machine with
the head down ; place the strap in the machine with the cut end up
as shown at E in Fig. 17, and drive the rivet in place. The first
rivet should be placed close to the hole.

REPLACING A HAME CLIP ON A TUG

21

7. Place another rivet near the end of the strap as indicated at
E in Fig. 17. In placing the second rivet don't let the buckle end
of the strap drop down or the end of the strap will not fit tight
against the strap in the finished job.

8. With a small brush swab on enough edge ink to blacken the
newly cut leather.

AND CUT END
T4PER Of ABOUT a
O/V ROUGH Off
FLESH -S/DE

PL/tC£ BUCKLE O/V STff/JP
HEBE

PL/ICE STRAP //v

RIVETING /WCH/NE
ANOTHER

TiSBULflR Hrtft/V&SS RIVET
Fig. 17. Attaching a Buckle with Rivets.

REPLACING A HAME CLIP ON A TUG

The replacing of a hame clip is a harness repair job which occurs
often, as the hame clip is a part of a harness which often wears out
due to the constant friction between the hame clip and hame staple.
It may be accomplished as follows :

1. With pinchers or cold chisel and hammer remove the old
rivets.

2. Place the new clip on the tug in the position which it is to
assume when riveted, A, Fig. 18, and mark the holes for the rivets
with the scratchawl.

3. Punch the holes for the rivets with the belt punch or sad-
dler's punch.

4. Insert the hame clip in the hame staple, and draw it onto the
end of the tug. The clip is stripped over the tug, — it need not be
inserted in the tug as the hame will hold the metal away from the
horse and prevent chafing.

22

HARNESS REPAIRING

5. Draw the hame clip tight against the leather by placing the
ring of the clip on the anvil and striking the other side of the ring
firmly with the hammer. B, Fig. 18.

6. Draw the holes in line with the scratchawl.

7. Place a rivet through the hole in the clip and tug nearest
the head from the horse side and rivet just enough to hold in place.

8. Place the other rivet or rivets in the same way and hammer
all rivets tight.*

HAVE

LOCATE HOLES WITH

STRIKE HERE' TO
CLOSE CLIP O/V TUG

RIVETS

THE R£Pfim JOB COMPLETED

Fig. 18. Replacing a Hame Clip on a Tug.

REPAIRING A TRACE OR TRACE AND TUG WITH
HAME CLIPS AND LINK

A broken trace may be neatly and substantially repaired by the
use of a link from a chain and two hame clips. (Fig. 19.) It may
be accomplished as follows :

1. Cut the two broken ends of the trace square. Enough should
be cut off to make the trace its original length when the hame clips
and the link are in place.

2. Place a clip on the trace in the position which it is to assume
when riveted, A, Fig. 18, and mark the places for the rivets with
the point of a scratchawl.

3. Punch the holes through the trace for the rivets with the
belt punch or saddler's punch.

*Note: — If rivets at hand are too long they should be cut so as to be
of proper length. The rivets should be neatly rounded and smoothed and
not hammered out flat with edges split out. A rivet set may be used to
smooth the work.

REPAIRING A TRACE OR TUG

23

4. Insert the link in one of the clips and force one end of the
clip into the cut end of the trace so that there will be one thickness
of leather between the clip and the horse. If the clip were stripped
over the trace instead of one end being inserted it would chafe the
horse. Drive it into the trace with a hammer so that the holes will
line up. Further draw the holes in line by forcing the scratchawl
through a hole in the strap and a corresponding hole in the clip.

Fig. 19. Repairing a Trace or Trace and Tug with Two Hame Clips and a Link.

5. Place the head of the clip on the anvil, vise or other metal
support and firmly strike the other edge of the head with a hammer,
thus drawing the clip tight on the leather. B, Fig. 18.

6. Again draw the holes in line by the use of the scratch-awl.

7. Place a soft iron rivet into the hole nearest the link from
the leather or horse side of the trace and rivet just enough to hold
the rivet in place.

8. Place the other rivet in the same way and rivet the parts
firmly together.

9. Place the other clip into the link and fasten to the other
piece of trace in the same manner as the first.

10. This method of repair is often used where the trace and tug
are joined. The distance from the front end of the tug to the center
of the link should be 18".

If this method of repair is used at this point on the trace a belly
band billet 1%" wide by 14" long is riveted or sewed onto the link.
(Fig. 19.)

24 HARNESS REPAIRING

REPLACING A BROKEN HAME STAPLE

Due to the constant friction between the hame clip and the hame
staple, the hame staple very frequently becomes worn through and
must be replaced with a new one. It may be accomplished as follows :

JERK H/WE
AND LEFT AND BRE0K

THE OLD STAPLE HERE

JERK H*WE UP AND

DOWN &MD BREfiK
LEGS Or OLD

DP/VE OLD #/V£T
E/VDS DOWN WITH
HfltfMER flttD PUNCH

CUT ENDS Of OLD
STflPLE WITH BOLT CUT'
TER,HflCKSfiW OR
COLD CH/SEL

PLtiCE HOLD jBfiCH ON NEW
STfiPLE AND STAPLE IN H4ME

THEN CLflfJP IN V/SE, PLflCE

WASHERS CW^S
PLE *ND RIVET

Fig. 20. Replacing a Broken Hame Staple.

1. If the old staple which it is desired to replace isn't entirely
worn through it may be broken by placing one side of the staple in
the vise as shown at A, Fig. 20, and vigorously jerking the hame
back and forth, left and right.

2. When the staple is broken as shown at B, Fig. 20, place one
side in the vise as shown, grab the end of the hame in both hands
and jerk it up and down and thus break the staple off close to the
hame.

3. Hame staples are tapered and cannot be driven through to

USE OF BUCKLE SHIELDS

25

the riveted side. The hame is placed in the vise as shown at C with
the riveted edge down and the rivets driven down with punch and
hammer as far as possible.

4. The hame is reversed in the vise so that the riveted ends of
the staple are up as shown at D. The riveted ends are then cut off
with a hack saw, bolt cutter or cold chisel. If a cold chisel is used
the rivets must be held on a solid metal surface. Having cut off the
ends the rivets are punched out with a hammer and punch.

5. Place the right or left hold back plate and ring, depending
on right or left hame, in place on the new staple and drive the staple
in place.

6. Clamp the staple in the vise as shown at E and place wash-
ers on the staple. Then rivet firmly in place.

USE OF BUCKLE SHIELDS

It is quite desirable that the buckle that attaches the breeching
to the hip strap of harnesses be provided with a buckle shield so
as to prevent the hair of the tail of the horse from being caught on
the tongue of the buckle and pulled out. Metal buckle shields of

BUCKLE SHIELD //v PLSIG&

Fig. 21. Making and Use of Buckle Shields.

26

HARNESS REPAIRING

various sizes, B, Fig. 21, may be purchased and used for this pur-
pose. They are attached as shown at C, Fig. 21.

A very satisfactory buckle shield may be made with a piece of
leather as shown at A, Fig. 21. The size of the piece of leather to
be used depends on the width of the strap. The one shown is 1%"
wide and 1%" long and is designed for a strap V in width. On a
line drawn parallel to each end of the strap i/4" or 5/16" from the
ends, make oblong holes with the belt punch of sufficient width to
permit the strap to pass through. In this drawing it is 1" wide.
The edges of the strap should be somewhat rounded and the corners
should be cut round so as to make as smooth a shield as possible.

Leather from an old shoe may be used. Leather from an old belt
may also be used, but may need to be skived off so as to be suf-
ficiently flexible. Stiff leather should not be used as it is apt to
chafe the horse.

REPAIRING THE END OF A TRACE WITH A
WROT CONCORD CLIP

1. Cut the end of the trace to be repaired square. Fig. 22. If
the leather is badly torn so as to be somewhat ragged, it may be
stitched.

COCKEYE.

WROT COMCORD CLIP

COCKEYE row our

THE: REPAIR JOB COMPLETED

Fig. 22. Repairing the End of a Trace with a Wrot Concord Clip.

2. Place the trace in the clip and mark the holes for rivets.
The trace should be kept far enough from the cockeye to permit the
cockeye to swing freely.

3. Eemove the trace from the clip and punch the holes.

4. Place the cockeye and the trace in the clip and the rivets in
place. Place the heads of the rivets on the anvil or other solid metal
surface and rivet the clip tight onto the trace.

ATTACHING HEEL CHAIN

27

ATTACHING HEEL CHAIN TO TRACE WITH A

HAME CLIP

If a cockeye tears out of the end of a trace it may be neatly and
substantially repaired by hooking a hame clip into the heel chain and

COCKEYE TORN OUT

Fig. 23. Attaching Heel Chain to Trace with a Hame Clip.

riveting the clip onto the end of the trace. It may be accomplished
as follows :

1. Trim the torn end of the trace, A, Fig. 23.

2. Place the hame clip on the trace and mark the places for
the rivet holes A, Fig. 18.

3. Punch the holes with the belt punch or saddler's punch.

4. Place the clip on the trace.

Place the clip on the anvil, vise or other solid metal support and
close it tight on the trace by a blow of the hammer, B, Fig. 18.

5. Force the scratchawl through the holes in the clip and trace
to line them up.

6. Place rivets from the horse side of the trace and rivet
smooth.

REPAIRING A TRACE AND TUG WITH A TRACE
SQUARE AND TWO WROT CONCORD CLIPS*

1. Place the square in the clip and the end of the trace in posi-
tion in the clip and mark the holes for the rivets on the trace,
Fig. 24.

*Note: — Cut and shorten the length of the trace or tug a distance
equal to the length of the trace square so that the total length of the trace
will be the same as it was before the break occurred.

This method of repair is one often used where the trace and tug are
joined. The distance from the front end of the tug to the center of the
trace square should be 18". If this method of repair is used at this point
on the trace a trace square billet I'/i" long is riveted or sewed onto the
trace square.

28

HARNESS REPAIRING

2. Remove the trace and punch the holes for the rivets.

3. Place the trace in the clip and the rivets in the holes and
with the heads of the rivets resting securely on an anvil or other
metal surface rivet the ends of the rivets securely on the clip.

4. Fasten the other end of the tug in the same way.

WftOT

Fig. 24. Repairing a Trace and Tug with a Trace Square and two
Wrot Concord Clips.

SPLICING A TRACE WITH A TRACE SPLICER OR
A METAL PLATE

1. Cut the broken ends of the trace square.

2. Place the square ends together ; place the plate on the trace
and mark the points for the rivets with the scratchawl.

3. Make the rivet holes and place the plate in the center of the
trace as shown in Fig. 25.

4. Place the repair job on an anvil or other solid metal surface,

TRACE SPLIGER

THE

Fig. 25. Splicing a Trace with a Trace Splicer or a Metal Plate.

REPAIRING BOTTOM END OF HAME 29

place the rivets in the holes, with a washer on the rivet and rivet in
place. Eivets should be used which have flat heads and just long
enough to rivet well. The rivets should be placed with the head on
the horse side of the trace and smoothed as neatly as possible so as
to prevent rubbing the horse.

5. If a narrow plate is used the edges and ends of the plate
should be filed smooth. The edges of the trace may be sewed as
shown in the illustration and thus the appearance of the job greatly
enhanced.*

REPAIRING BOTTOM END OF HAME

If a hame iron wears through where it holds the bottom loop
it may be repaired with a repair clip.

1. Clamp the hame in the vise and remove the old rivet and
the broken end with the hammer and punch.

2. Place the bottom loop in the repair clip and strip the repair
clip on the end of the hame under the old hame iron.

3. Place the rivet through from the back of the hame through
the old hole in the iron and while resting the head of the rivet on
an anvil or vise rivet snugly in place.

4. At a point on the iron just below the rivet cut a notch in
the iron with a file and break the end of the old iron off. Note in
Fig. 26, "Cut the old metal here."

REPAIR CUP FOR END OF

Cur THE OLD

METrtL

PLACE REPAIR CUP WOZR THE

OLD riETfiL STRfiP *ND RIVET

Fig. 26. Repairing Bottom End of Hame.

5. Hammer the end tight against the kame and smooth with
a file if necessary.

HARNESS STITCHING CLAMP TO BE USED WITH
METAL VISE ON WORKBENCH

The harness stitching clamp which is shown in the picture and
the drawing of which is shown in Fig. 27, is made of two pieces of

'Note: — Any piece of metal approximately %" thick by %" or l" wide
by 6" to 8" in length may be drilled and used for the plate.

30

HARNESS REPAIRING

HARNESS STITGHt/VO CLAMP
TO BE USED WITH
V/SC

. 27.

HARNESS STITCHING CLAMP

31

TO BE USED W/TH
3 HOP WOXKBEMCH

Fig. 28.

32 HARNESS REPAIRING

hardwood %"x4"x!4". one piece of any wood %"x%"x4", and a piece
of leather 2%"x4". If leather of these dimensions is not at hand,
two or three pieces of strap, or trace or tug of any width, which is
available, 2%" long may be used. The block between the two mem-
bers of the clamp is nailed to one member only. The leather hinge
is nailed to both members of the clamp but not to the block. The
clamp may be made 14" long or longer or shorter to suit the height
of the vise and the person using the clamp.

The clamp may also be used to hold a crosscut or hand saw for
filing.

HARNESS STITCHING CLAMP TO BE USED WITH
FARM SHOP WORKBENCH VISE

As shown in the picture this clamp is used with the wooden vise
on the farm shop workbench. Fig. 28. A piece of wood ^4"xl"x5"
is placed between the two pieces of the clamp at the bottom and
nailed to one member of the clamp. A piece of wood 13/16"xl%"x5"
is nailed to one member of the clamp at one side at a point 5^"
from the bottom. This piece fits against the top plank of the bench.
When the vise on the bench is closed it draws the top of the clamp
tight onto the leather for stitching. Any piece of leather may be
used for the hinge at the bottom. It should be nailed to the bottom
ends of the clamp but not to the block between the members of the
clamp.

The height of the clamp may be made 26" as called for in the
drawing or more or less to suit the workman.

The clamp may also be used for holding a crosscut or handsaw
for filing.

Since the two horizontal bars of the vise are more than 5" apart
the clamp has a tendency to tip when not tight in the vise. This
may be overcome by placing a narrow, thin board in the vise on the
horizontal members and then placing the clamp in place.

STITCHING CLAMP AND FARM WORKBENCH

A very satisfactory harness stitching arrangement is that of
using a clamp which is held in the vise of the farm workbench. Figs.
29, 30, 31. The clamp and strap are made entirely apart from the
bench and are only placed in the vise when stitching is to be done.
When the stitching job is completed the strap is unsnapped from the
lever, the clamp is removed from the vise and the outfit hung on a
nail in some out-of-the-way place as shown in Fig. 33, until further
call for its use. The following bill of material is for the lever ar-
rangement and stitching clamp only.

STITCHING CLAMP AND FARM WORKBENCH

33

Material Required.
Lumber.

Pieces

Dimensions
%"x4"x22"
%"x4"x!8"
%"x2"x4"

%"xl"x20

Use

Post for clamp
Clamp

Block between clamp and
Fulcrum
Lever

post

Hardware.

2 machine bolts %"x3}&" to bolt post, block and clamp together.

2 2" fast joint, light, narrow butt hinges with screws.

2 carriage bolts %//x21/^" to fasten fulcrum to brace of bench.

1 machine bolt ^4"x2^/r to fasten lever to fulcrum.

1 piece of metal %"xl"x2" for lock.

1 piece of metal %"xl"x5" for clamp.

6 round head blued screws %" No. 8 to fasten lock and clamp.

1 1%" fence staple for fastening snap to lever.

1 V harness snap for fastening strap to staple.

1 1" strap 3' 6" long.

1 V harness buckle.

1 piece of tin I"x2" to place in mortise in post for strap to slide over
and prevent wear of strap.

2 %" brads to fasten end of strap to clamp.
1 coil spring to spread clamp.

Fig. 29. Lever and Lock of Stitch-
ing Clamp and Farm Workbench.

Fig. 30. Stitching Clamp and Vise
of Farm Workbench.

34

HARNESS REPAIRING

STITCHING CLAMP AND FARM WORKBENCH

35

Directions for Construction.

1. Reduce all pieces to length, width and thickness.

2. Bevel the top ends of the post and clamp as shown in the
drawing.

3. Make mortises %"xl" for the strap through the post and
clamp at 6" from the top.

4. Bend the piece of tin in the mortise in the post and fasten
with brads. This provides a smooth surface for the strap to slide
over.

5. Bolt the clamp and post together with y8"x2"x4" block
between them at the bottom, using the %"x31/^// machine bolts.

Fig. 32. Clamp, Lever, Wedge and
Strap Hung on Nail.

Fig. 33. Clamp Hung on Nail.

6. Fasten the hinges in place, then remove the hinges and saw
the clamp in two at two inches from the bottom. Then replace the
hinges. This leaves a saw kerf between the parts and permits the
clamp to close at the top.

7. Fasten the coil spring between the clamp and the post.

8. File notches similar to the teeth on a rip saw in one edge
of the metal clamp as shown in the detail drawing.

9. Drill four holes through the metal clamp near the back edge
for the screws.

10. Fasten the metal clamp to the leg of the workbench as
shown in the drawing.

11. Drill the holes through the metal piece for the lock and

36 HARNESS REPAIRING

fasten to the upper edge of, the lever so as to lock onto the clamp.
The lock should be gained in at the back so as to stand at a slant.
The lower edge may be ground or filed so as to fit up into the notches
of the clamp. The lock should be placed at 3%" from the end of
the lever.

12. Fasten the fence staple to the side of the lever at a point
8%" from the end of the lever.

13. Fasten the lever to the lower end of the fulcrum with the
i/4"x2y2" machine bolt.

14. Fasten the fulcrum to the inside of the brace of the bench
at a point 91/2" from the leg.

15. Assemble the buckle, slide loop, snap and strap; pass the
end of the strap through the mortises in the post and clamp and
fasten to the clamp with the two %" brads.

16. Locate a point on the top, front plank of the workbench at
the vise end 3*4" from the front edge and 10" from the front end,
and bore a hole I1/!/' in diameter through the plank for the strap
to slide through.

17. With the keyhole saw, chisel and mallet make the front
edge of the hole square so as to permit the strap to slide through flat.

18. Place the clamp in the vise, drop the snap end of the strap
through the hole in the top of the bench and snap it to the staple on
the lever.

19. Draw the strap up tight at the buckle so that pressure on
the end of the lever will draw the clamp shut and lock it.

20. Bore a hole through the bottom end of the post of the clamp
so that it may be hung on a nail in some out-of-the-way place when
not in use. Fig. 33.

FARM SHOP WORKBENCH

Bill of Material.
Lumber for bench :

Pieces Dimensions Use

1 1%" x 10" x 8' 0" Top (maple or other hard-

wood)

1 W x 10" x 8' 0" Top (soft wood)
4 1%" x 5%" x 2' 7" Legs

2 1%" x 5%" x 18%" Sills

2 i§" x 4" x 18%" End braces

2 W x 4" x 6' 5*4" Long braces

1 \l" x 4" x 13*4" Cross brace

2 it" x 10" x 8' 0" Aprons

2 if x 3" x 18%" Drawer guides

2 it" x it" x 18%" Drawer guides

1 it" x 6" x 18" Drawer front

2 it" x 6" x 19" Drawer sides

1 it" x 4 it" x 17" Drawer back

2 it" x 9&" x 16%" Drawer bottom

FARM SHOP WORK BENCH

37

Jaw (oak, maple or other

hardwood)
Horizontal braces (oak, maple

or other hardwood)
Diagonal braces (oak, maple

or other hardwood)

Lumber for vise :

1 1%" x 7 Ms" x 24"

2 }|" x 2" x 17"

2 H" x 2" x 2' 7 Ms"

Hardware for bench:

7 carriage bolts %" x 6^j" with washers, for holding sills to legs.
1 carriage bolt %" x 6" with washer, for holding sill to leg.

4 carriage bolts %" x 1" with washers, for holding top to sills.
40 flat head bright wood screws, 1%" No. 8 or 9 for fastening top

board, aprons, braces, and drawer guides.
20 6d common nails for fastening long braces to legs.

1 doz. 4d common nails for assembling drawer guides.
% Ib. 6d finishing nails for assembling drawer.

Hardware for vise:

1 iron bench screw %" or V with handle.

4 flat head bright wood screws 1%" No. 12 for fastening bench
screw to jaw.

8 flat head bright wood screws 2" No. 12 for fastening braces

to jaw.

8 flat head bright wood screws %" No. 8 for fastening braces at
joints.

Fig. 34. Another View of the Farm Shop Workbench and Farm Woodworking Tools.

38

HARNESS REPAIRING

FARM SHOP WORKBENCH 39

Directions

Dry lumber should be used for all parts of the bench and vise.
Soft lumber may be used for all parts excepting the vise and top
plank. Oak, maple, hard pine or other hard lumber should be used
for these members. All lumber should be surfaced on two sides
to the thickness called for in the drawing. Figs. 34, 35.

1. Cut the legs to length 2' 7", and lay out the mortises at
one end of each leg to receive the ends of the sills as shown in the
detail drawing I%"x5%" removing the stock with the cross cut
and rip saws.

A 6%" bolt at the top of the back leg at vise end would pre-
vent the vise from closing. This is overcome by cutting %" out of
the edge of the leg at the top and using the 6" bolt.

If the lumber for the legs is only 51/2" wide instead of 5%" as
called for in the bill of material, which is often the case, the bolts
for holding the sills to the legs may be y%" shorter, thus being
3/8"x6" and %"x5i/2".

2. Lay out the gains on the outside edges of the legs, %" deep,
4" wide and 6" from the bottom ends to receive the cross braces.

3. Cut the sills to length, 18%" and fasten them to the legs
with two %" x 6%" carriage bolts at each joint. Use the square to
assure right angles between the legs and sills.

4. Fasten the cross braces to the legs, using two 1%" No. 8
or 9 flat head screws at each joint.

5. Cut the long braces to dimensions and fasten them in place,
using five 6d. common nails at each joint. Make sure that the legs
stand at right angles to the long braces.

6. Cut the middle cross brace to length 13%" and fasten to
the two long braces with two 1%" No. 8 or 9 flat head screws at
each end.

7. Cut an opening in the upper edge of the front apron 18"
long and 6" deep, 24" from the front end of the board for the drawer.

8. Fasten the aprons to the legs, using three 1%" No. 8 or 9
flat head screws at each leg except the vise leg, on which the middle
screw is omitted because of the bench screw.

9. Lay out the mortises on the front apron for the horizontal
braces of the vise so that the top of the mortises are 7" from the
top of the bench or 5y±" from the top of the apron, and so that the
inside of the mortises fall flush with the sides of the legs. The
mortises should be made slightly larger than the braces to provide
a free working of the braces through the mortises.

40 HARNESS REPAIRING

10. Locate and bore a hole for the bench screw with a bit 1/16"
larger than the bench screw through the apron and leg on a center
line of the leg TV?" from the top of the bench, or 5%" from the top
of the apron.

11. Place the bench screw through the hole and fasten the
screw washer in place on the inside of the leg with two 1%" No. 12
flat head wood screws.

12. The braces for the vise are assembled at the half lap joint
and placed through the apron from the inside and fastened to the
jaw of the vise with two No. 12 flat head wood screws at each brace.

13. Assemble the drawer guides as shown in the detail drawing,
using six 4d. common nails for each guide, and fasten in position,
using two 1%" No. 8 or 9 flat head screws at each end of each piece.

14. The method of constructing a drawer depends somewhat
upon the tools and machines at hand. If a grooving plane, buzz
saw or dado saw are at hand, the method suggested in the detail
drawings is to be preferred.

It will be noted that grooves are cut in the side pieces near the
lower edge and also near the rear end to receive the bottom and
end pieces. A groove is also cut in the drawer front at the inside
near the bottom to receive the front end of the bottom. The drawer
front should be constructed at both ends as shown in the detail
drawings. If the above tools are not at hand this may be done with
saw, chisel and mallet. Simple box construction where only butt
joints are used makes a very substantial drawer if securely nailed.
Sixpenny finishing nails may be used.

15. For a drawer pull in this place an opening 1" wide by 4"
long is preferable to a drawer pull which is fastened to the outside
of the drawer, as it is out of the way.

16. Lay the top plank in place, clamp tightly, and draw lines
across over the center of the cross sills.

17. On each line just drawn locate two points; one 1%" from
the back edge and one 3%" from the front edge.

18. Bore holes %" deep on points just located with %" bit.

19. Continue holes through plank and into sills with %" bit.

20. Remove plank and continue holes through sill.

21. Place plank in position and fasten with %"x7" carriage
bolts, using one washer for each bolt.

22. Plug the holes in the top of the plank.

23. Fasten the top board by using three 1%" No. 8 or 9 flat
head screws through the board into each sill.

STITCHING HORSE 41

STITCHING HORSE

Bill of Materials.

(Figs. 36, 37, 38, 39.)

Lumber: Oak, maple, beech, birch or other hardwood.

Pieces Dimensions Use

1 I%"xl0^"x26" Seat

4 I}i"xl}4"x24}i" Legs

1 I}i"xl}i"x21%" Brace (left side)

1 %"x %"x23%" Brace (right side)

2 %"x %"x!3%" Braces (end)
1 %"xli4"x22" Lever

1 I^"x5" x20%" Post

1 I^"x5" x!6%" Clamp

1 1" xl%"x5" Key

Hardware.

6 flat head bright wood screws 2%" No. 1,2 for fastening legs to seat
and brace to legs at left side.

6 flat head bright wood screws 1%" No. 9 for fastening braces at
ends and right side.

7 round head blued wood screws V No. 9 to fasten lock on leg and
catch to lever.

2 machine bolts tfc"x3^" to fasten clamp to post.

2 fast joint steel butts l%"xl%".
1 coil spring I"x3".

1 leather strap I"x44".
1 1" harness buckle.

3 lining nails to fasten end of strap to clamp.

1 piece of heavy wire 2y2" long to hold strap in place on lever.
1 piece of metal %"xl%"x5" for the lock.
1 piece of metal %"xl^"x2^// for the catch.

1 piece of metal %"xl"x5%" for the U iron.

2 machine bolts *4"x2" to hold the U iron to brace and lever in U iron.

Directions.

1. Reduce all pieces to finished dimensions.

2. Draw a centerline lengthwise of the seat piece and also lines
across the stock 5%" from each end, and at the intersection of lines
swing arcs with a 5%" radius.

3. With the compass set at 9%", swing an arc at each side
tangent to the arcs at each end.

4. Remove the stock to a line with a turning saw, keyhole saw,
or by making saw kerfs to the line and removing the stock with the
draw shave. The edge may be smoothed with a wood file.

5. The stock on the upper side of the seat where the worker's
legs rest on the seat may be further removed with the draw shave
and smoothed with the wood file.

6. To lay out the mortise for the post on the seat locate a point
on the line across the front end of the seat %" from the centerline
as shown in the detail drawing. Set the T-bevel at % pitch using
the figures 12 and 3 or 4 and 1 on the steel square and draw lines

42

HARNESS REPAIRING

STITCHING HORSE

43

for the sides of the mortise. The end lines of the mortise are at
right angles to the sides. The mortise extends through the seat at
the above angle and the T-bevel may be used as a guide in boring
out the stock.

7. Remove the stock for the
mortise with a bit, chisel and
mallet. It may be noted in the de-
tail drawing that the mortise is

8. Set the T-bevel at 2214"
and 4%" on the steel square and
lay out the cuts at both ends of
the legs and left side brace. A
shoulder is cut at the upper end of
the legs 1" from the end so that
the end will go into the %" holes
which are bored in the lower side
of the seat.

9. At a point 6" from the
lower end of the left legs and on
the inside lay out gains 14" deep
and 114" wide across the stock to
receive the ends of the left side
brace. The stock may be removed
with the saw and chisel, making
the saw kerfs close together. Use
the T-bevel as set for the ends of
the legs. This will place the top
and bottom edge of the brace
parallel to the floor when the
horse is assembled.

10. Assemble the brace and

left legs by the use of one 2~y2" No. 12 flat head bright wood screw
at each joint. The holes for all flat head screws should be counter-
sunk so as to place the screws slightly below the surface of the wood.
In placing the screws it is well to use two wood twist drills, one the
diameter of the wTire of the screw to bore a hole as deep as the screw
up to the thread on the screw and another 1/32" smaller to bore the
hole slightly deeper.

11. Locate points on the inside of all four legs on a centerline
and 8" from the bottom end of the legs and bore %" holes %" deep
for the ends of the end braces. The holes are bared at the same

Fig. 37. Front View of Stitching Horse.

44

HARNESS REPAIRING

angle as is used for the ends of the legs. The ends of the braces are
rounded so as to draw snugly into the %" holes.

12. Locate points on the two right legs 8^2" fr<>m tne bottom
ends and bore %" holes for the right side brace.

13. Fasten the braces to the legs by using one 1%" No. 9 flat
head bright wood screw at each joint.

STITCHING HORSE

45

14. Lay the seat on the bench
with the bottom side up. Draw
a center-line lengthwise of the

PH stock and lines across the stock

514" from each end. Locate two
points on each line across the stock
4" from the centerline. At these
points bore %" holes 1" deep, using
the T-bevel set as for the ends of
the legs for a guide.

15. With a twist drill of the
size of 2y2" No. 12 screws continue
the holes through the seat from
the same side. Countersink the
holes from the upper side of the
seat.

16. Place the legs in position
and with a twist drill 1/32"
smaller than the above bore a hole
into the top end of each leg for
the screws.

17. Fasten the seat to the
legs using one 2y2" No. 12 flat
head screw at each joint.

18. By use of the T-bevel as
set for the mortise through the

seat lay out the lower end of the clamp and post and remove the
stock with saws as shown in the detail drawing of the clamp.

19. Lay out the mortise for the key through the post at the di-
mensions shown in the detail drawing of the clamp. Remove the
stock with a bit, chisel and mallet.

20. To lay out the clearance space on the clamp and post, draw
seven lines across the inside and both edges of each as shown in the
detail drawing; the first %" from the end and the other 2" apart.
Locate points on the lines across the edges as shown in the detail
drawing and lay out the curves free hand. The stock may be re-
moved by making saw kerfs close together across the stock and re-
moving the wood with the chisel and draw shave. The surface may
be smoothed with a wood file.

21. Draw lines across the upper ends of the post and clamp i/4"
from the inside edge and a line across the outside of each 2%" from
the end. Lay out a curve free hand for rounding the corners and

Fig. 39. Side View of Stitching Horse.

46 HARNESS REPAIRING

remove the stock with the draw shave. The surface may be smoothed
with the wood file.

22. Draw a line across the outside of the clamp, 10" from the
lower end, and on this line make an opening for the strap through
both clamp and post, using the %" bit as shown in the detail drawing.

23. Bolt the clamp and post together with two S/lG^xS1/^"
machine bolts placed as indicated in the detail drawing.

24. Place the two steel butts as shown in the detail drawing 4"
from the lower end of the clamp.

25. Remove the hinges and saw the clamps in two below the
center of the hinges ; then replace the hinges. If it were sawed first
and then the hinges placed in position the clamp would drop down
the thickness of the saw kerf and not match at the top with the post.

26. Shape the key as shown in the detail drawing of the key.

27. On a line drawn parallel to the side of the mortise, 2%"
from the side of the seat and 6" from the front end of the seat,
make a slot through the seat 5/16" wide and 1%" long for the strap
to pass through.

28. The coil spring is placed directly below the strap between
the clamp and the post. It may be held in place by bending about
%" of one end of a wire at a right angle to the length of the spring
and forcing this bent end into a hole in the post.

29. Cut a piece of galvanized iron or other heavy sheet metal
T'xli/i" and bend to a right angle as shown in the detail drawing;
place it in the strap opening in the post and fasten with two small
flat head screws.

30. With the hack saw cut a piece of metal for the lock
i/J/'xli/^xS". The notches are y2" deep and shaped as indicated in
the detail drawing. They are cut with the hack saw and the corners
are rounded with an iron file. Centerpunch for holes for the screws
as shown and drill 3/16" holes, using the drill press or breast drill.
Fasten the clamp to the right front leg with four 1", No. 9, round
head blued screws so that the lower end is 5%" from the bottom of
the leg.

31. By the use of the hack saw cut a piece of metal for the
catch ^4"xl^"x2%", heat to a cherry red heat and forge to the form
shown in the detail drawing. If a forge is not available it may be
filed or ground to the form and bent slightly with a hammer and
vise. Centerpunch for three holes and drill 3/16" holes. Fasten to
the top edge of the lever with three 1", No. 9, round head blued
screws.

SAW HORSE STITCHING CLAMP 47

32. Cut a piece of metal with the hack saw %"xli4''x5y2".
Centerpunch for the holes and bore three %" holes as indicated.
Heat the metal to a cherry red heat and bend to a U form to the
dimensions shown in the detail drawing.

33. Bore a }£" hole through the left horizontal brace at a point
2" from the front end and fasten the U iron in place with a %"x2"
machine bolt.

34. Bore a ^4" hole through the left end of the lever and fasten
into the U iron with a %"x2" machine bolt.

35. File both ends of the 2%" heavy steel wire to a point ; bend
%" of each end at a right angle. Drill holes and fasten to the lower
edge of the lever so as to hold the strap at 7" from the lower end of
the lever.

36. Fasten the buckle to. the end of the strap ; strip a leather
loop on the strap ; draw the strap around the lever through the bent
wire guide and again through the leather loop and through the
buckle. Draw it up through the slots in the seat, post and clamp
and fasten to the outside of the clamp with three lining nails.

37. With the belt punch make holes in the strap 1" apart and
draw the strap up so that the lever works the clamp and locks it.

38. Wood deteriorates in value and strength as it constantly
increases and decreases in moisture content. This may be largely
prevented by covering with a coat of paint or shellac. It is sug-
gested that the stitching horse be finished with two coats of shellac.

SAW HORSE STITCHING CLAMP

A stitching clamp may be made by a clamp and lever arrange-
ment attached to a saw horse. Figs. 40, 41. The clamp is removed
from the saw horse by driving the key out of the keyway, and the
lever is removed by loosening the nut on the bolt in the leg. The
clamp may then be hung some place in the shop or barn until further
call for its use and the saw horse used for other purposes. Fig. 32.

Material Required.
Lumber.

Pieces Dimensions Use

1 I%"x5%"x3' 0" Top
4 ir'x3%"x25}£" Legs

2 H"x5%"xlO}4" Braces

1 %"x4"x22" (hardwood) Post for clamp

1 %"x4"x!8" (hardwood) Clamp

1 %"x2"x4" Block at bottom of clamp

1 %"xl"x3" (hardwood) Key

1 %"xl"x20" (hardwood) Lever

48

HARNESS REPAIRING

SAW HORSE STITCHING CLAMP 49

Hardware.

24 flat head bright wood screws 1%" No. 10.

2 machine bolts %"x3" to bolt clamp, block and post together.

2 2" fast joint light narrow butt hinges with screws.

1 machine bolt *4/rx2}&" with two washers for end of lever.

1 piece of metal %"xl"x6" for catch.

1 piece of metal %"xl"x2" for lock.

1 1" strap 3' 6" long.

1 1" buckle.

1 1 *6 " fence staple to hold strap in place on lever.

1 1" slide loop.

1 piece of tin I"x2" to place in hole in post for strap to slide on.

2 %" brads to fasten end of strap to clamp.

1 coil spring to spread clamps.

6 %" No. 7 or 8 round head blued screws to fasten catch to leg and
lock to lever.

2 poultry netting staples to fasten key to end of post by use of a
string to prevent its being lost.

1 piece of heavy string 8" long to fasten key to end of post.

Directions for Construction.

1. Reduce all pieces to length, width and thickness.

2. With the T-bevel set at 22" on the beam and 4y2" on the
blade of the steel square lay out the bevels at the ends of the legs
across the side of the boards.

3. With the T-bevel set at 22y2" on the beam and 5%" on the
blade of the steel square lay out the bevels at the ends of the legs
across the edges of the boards.

4. Bevel the edges of the legs with the T-bevel set at i/4" on the
beam and 6" on the blade of the steel square.

5. Lay out and cut openings in the top for the legs %" deep at
the top with the T-bevel set at the same angle as for the ends of the
legs.

6. Lay out and cut the bevels at the ends of the braces.

7. Bevel the top edges of the braces so that they fit tightly
against the top.

8. Lay out and cut a mortise in the top for the post %" wide
by 2%" long, 9" from the front end and 1%" from the left side.

9. Assemble the parts of the horse by placing the screws as in-
dicated in the drawing.

10. Bevel the top ends of the post and clamp as shown in the
drawing.

11. Cut a %" shoulder on the lower end of the post so as to
make a tenon 2%" wide and 4" long.

12. Cut an %" chamfer on the end of the tenon of the post.

13. Mortise a hole for the key through the tenon of the post.

50

HARNESS REPAIRING

The top edge of this mortise is straight through the stock ; the bot-
tom edge is slanted like the key. The mortise is placed about 1/16"
nearer the shoulder on the post than the thickness of the sill so as
to cause the key to draw the post down tight onto the sill.

Fig. 41. Side and Front Views of Stitching Clamp.

14. Make mortises %"xl" for the strap through the post and
clamp at 6" from the top.

15. Bend the piece of tin in the mortise in the post and fasten
with brads. This is to provide a smooth surface for the strap to
slide on.

16. Bolt the post and clamp together with the %"x2"x4" block
between them at bottom using the %"x3" machine bolts.

17. Fasten the hinges in place, then remove the hinges and
saw the clamp in two at two inches from the bottom. Then replace
the hinges. This leaves a saw kerf between the parts and permits
the clamp to close at top.

18. Fasten the coil spring between the post and clamp.

19. Make a mortise 1" square in the front, left leg 4" from the
bottom and 1" from the inside edge.

20. File notches similar to the teeth on a rip saw in one edge
of the metal catch as shown in the detail drawing.

21. Drill four holes through the metal catch near the back

CLEANING AND OILING A HARNESS 51

edge for the screws. Then fasten the catch to the right front leg
as shown in the detail drawing.

22. Drill two holes through the metal piece for the lock and
fasten to the upper edge of the lever so as to lock onto the catch.
The metal piece should be gained in at back so as to stand at a slant.
The lower edge may be ground or filed so that it will fit up into the
notches of the catch.

23. Straighten out the fence staple and bend so as to make it
wide enough for the strap to slide through and fasten to the lower
edge of the lever at 6" from the back end.

24. Assemble the strap, buckle and slide loop onto the lever
then pass it through the mortises in the post and clamp and nail it
to the clamp.

25. Fasten the lever to the leg by use of the y^'^W^ machine
bolt. This bolt should not be drawn up tight thus allowing the lever
to slip in and out of the catch freely. Two nuts may be placed on
the bolt to lock it.

26. The nuts and bolt should be oiled and the tenon of the post
fit freely so that the clamp and lever may be removed easily and
quickly and hung aside when it is desired to use the saw horse for
other purposes.

CLEANING AND OILING A HARNESS

The appearance of a harness may be greatly improved and con-
siderable time added to its life if it is frequently cleaned and oiled.
Fig. 42.

The materials and tools needed for the work are as follows :

A washtub about three-quarters full of warm water.
A quantity of sal soda.
A scrubbing brush.

One board 10 in. to 12 in. wide and 6 feet long with strips nailed to
the sides to use as a scrubbing board.

A bench or stool to support the scrubbing board.

Harness oil.

A piece of burlap or other rag.

A piece of harness soap or dressing.

The job of overhauling the harness is usually done in the follow-
ing order :

1. Take all the harness apart taking off all the buckles, snaps,
loops, dees, cockeyes and other parts which can be taken off without
cutting rivets, stitching or straps.

2. Do all the repair work which needs to be done on the harness.

3. Having filled an ordinary washtub about three-quarters full

52

HARNESS REPAIRING

of warm water and thrown into the water a handful of sal soda
place all parts of the harness in the tub.

4. Place one end of the scrubbing board in the tub in a posi-
tion similar to a washboard and support the other end of the board
on a bench, stool or other support so that the water will drain from
the board back into the tub.

Fig. 42. Cleaning a Harness.

5. Having left the harness parts in the water long enough to
thoroughly soak place each piece on the board and scrub it with the
scrubbing brush.

6. Spread paper on the floor and as each piece is clean lay it
by itself on the paper.

7. The harness oil should be warm and may be applied with a
rag. It is not necessary that the harness be thoroughly dry before
the oil is applied. As the water is drying out the oil will draw in.

8. Having applied the oil and allowed overnight to dry, wipe
off all grease with burlap, then hang the harness up. Apply one,
two, three or four coats of oil depending on the condition of the
harness. The room where the harness is drying should be warm.

9. Put soap in a wash dish of water and with a damp sponge
apply soap same as when greasing. If harness dressing is used fol-
low carefully the directions on the container.

10. Assemble the harness.

HARNESS REPAIR TOOLS

To do harness repairing a few tools other than those used for
other farm shop work are needed. The following is a list of the
tools needed for the average farm shop. If work is done by a class
of boys at school more than one of each kind may be needed so
that all members of a class may work at the same time.

Three assorted sewing awls.

Three awl hafts.

Pricking wheel.

Harness maker's straight knife.

Saddler's punch.

Pour-tube revolving belt punch.

Small quantity shoemaker's wax.

Paper of needles of assorted sizes.

Ball of No. 10 white harness thread.

Round knife, 5-inch.

Riveting machine.

Common edge tool.

Finishing wheel.

Rivet set.

Scrubbing brush.

HARNESS REPAIR PARTS

The following is a list of the harness repair parts which it is
deemed advisable to carry in stock in the farm shop. 'Where repair
work is done by a group of boys at school it is advisable to obtain
the repair parts in quantity.

Harness oil.

One-inch sham roller buckles.

One-inch wire bent heel harness buckles.

Repair clips for the ends of hames.

Wrot iron hame clips.

Hame staples with washers.

Bottom hame repair loops.

Common line rings and studs.

Pair of hold back plates and rings.

Soft iron hame rivets, 1 *4 inch.

Cake of harness soap.

Box of assorted tubular harness rivets.

Box of assorted split rivets.

Conway loops, %, 1, 1^4 inch.

Screw cockeyes.

Wrot concord clips.

Repair dees, %, 1, 1*4 inch.

Buckle shields.

Repair roller buckles.

Snaps, assorted sizes.

Team tracer splicers.

Edge ink.

Hame buckles and loops.

Halter squares.

Assorted rings, %, %, 1 inch.

Assorted slide loops, %, %, 1, 1*4 inch.

Harness leather for general work.

Assorted copper rivets.

Assorted soft iron rivets, % inch to % inch.

53

Acknowledgment

For the illustrations of typical harnesses on pages
6 and 8 the author is indebted to J. H. & F. A.
Sells Co., Columbus, O.

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO 5O CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

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