The hatter's guide, or scientific instructor;

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THE HATTER'S

HIDE

OR

SCIENTIFIC INSTRUCTOR

How To Clean, Block, Rebuild And Remodel All Kinds Of Hat*, And Other

Special Miscellaneous Methods, Processes, Trade Secrets And

Instructions Pertaining To The Hat Cleaning,

Blocking Business.

THE "PRACTICAL" SELF-INSTRUCTOR THAT EXPLAINS THE SYS-
TEM. "SCIENCE, ARTS AND PRACTICE" OF WORKING HATS WITH-
OUT EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENTS AND BUT VERY LITTLE PRACTICE

EXPERIENCE.

•PRICE TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS'

A Practical System or Course of Instructions, containing scientific methods,
processes and trade secrets, written with special reference to the require-
ments of the non-technical reader desiring easily understood explanatory
matter, relating to the Cleaning, Blocking, Rebuilding and Remodeling of
various different kinds of Hats.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

nmnni

0 018 625 397 8

/<K7&*

I

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

OR

SCIENTIFIC INSTRUCTOR

How To Clean, Block, Rebuild And Remodel All Kinds Of Hats, And Other

Special Miscellaneous Methods, Processes, Trade Secrets And

Instructions Pertaining To The Hat Cleaning,

Blocking Business.

'PRICE TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS*

THE "PRACTICAL" SELF-INSTRUCTOR THAT EXPLAINS THE SYS-
TEM, "SCIENCE, ARTS AND PRACTICE" OF WORKING HATS WITH-
OUT EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENTS AND BUT VERY LITTLE PRACTICE

EXPERIENCE.

— By The Practical Hatter —
ROBERT W. M. HOLMES

A Practical System or Course of Instructions, containing scientific methods,
processes and trade secrets, written with special reference to the require-
ments of the non-technical reader desiring easily understood explanatory
matter, relating to the Cleaning, Blocking, Rebuilding and Remodeling of
various different kinds of Hats.

Compiled and Published By

ROBERT W. M. HOLMES

San Angelo, Texas.

1919.

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

^

•COPYRIGHT NOTICE"

Copyright 1919 by
ROBERT W. M. HOLMES

.*

~«. UAA1r of instructions printed herein are pro-
This .y.tem, ~*"* •'£"°*f the uXa States. Any unauthorized
tected under the ^^^^°^^jt^caUd for same,
infringement on our r*hU >wM be ^qlSeS, "The Author"

San Angelo, Texas.

©CI.A525359

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

V

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

SPECIAL PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR

THE HAT BUSINESS OR TRADE, Cleaning, Dyeing, Blocking, Remodel-
ing— Practically making old hats new, is without doubt one of the most
profitable businesses or trades, that requires but very little practical ex-
perience, with the proper instructions, etc., to be successful in doing the
work.

OPPORTUNITIES — In most localities there are splendid opportunities to
start the enterprise. The hat cleaning business is not over crowded; com-
paratively few shops of this kind are existing and competition in this special
line of work is limited, this condition being due to a great extent to the
lack of knowledge as to the practical science and secrets of cleaning, block-
ing remodeling — making old hats practically new.

THE PRACTICAL METHODS, ETC., of this trade have been closely
guarded by experienced hatters for business reasons. Otherwise most all
Tailor Shops, Cleaning, Pressing and Dyeing Establishments, Etc., would do
this work, if they knew the practical methods, and secrets of the Hat Clean-
ing, Blocking Business.

IN COMPILING THIS SYSTEM, COURSE, OR BOOK OF TRADE SE-
CRETS, ETC., exposing the practical methods, and trade secrets of clean-
ing, dyeing, blocking, remodeling, etc., of hats — practically making old hats
new — it is our earnest desire to instruct and make you competent to clean,

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

dye, block, remodel, etc., the various kinds of hats, and if you will follow the
instruction, etc., here, in the HATTER'S GUIDE OR SCIENTIFIC IN-
TRUCTOR, and are willing to make an earnest effort in an earnest way to
accomplish the results and the tricks of the trade, there should be no reason
that you could not succeed in doing the work practically and make money
out of the hat cleaning, blocking, etc. business.

EXPENSES AND PROFITS — The cash profits of the practical hatter's
renovating trade or business enterprise are enormous. The usual prices ob-
tained for Cleaning, Trimming, Reshaping, Reblocking — making over old
hats new — are from $1.25 to $2.00; cost of material, etc., used, ivo 10 Loc,
cash profits, $1.15 to $1.85. The prices obtained for only the cleaning of
hats, are from 50c to $1.00; cost of cleaning fluids, etc., Sc; cash profits,
37c to 97c. The above is only an example of the cash profits of the tradi-
or enterprise, and the other branches of the trade afford equal cash profits,
and in some parts of the service, even better profits.

DEMAND AND SERVICE— The service of Cleaning, Bleaching, Dyeing,
Blocking, Remodeling of Hats — making over old hats new — is on tne in-
crease, and constantly in demand. The service is not that of supplying a
luxury, but an actual necessity. In other words a man has a hat cleaned,
bleached, dyed, trimmed, reshaped or reblocked, etc., co uvoid the purchase
of another. Thereby not only saving money for himself, but at the same
time making cash money for you, and you have omy to realize thuc every
man is a prospective customer to grasp the immense field of rich opportun
ities afforded by this practical and profitable trade and independent money-
making business enterprise.

NO EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENTS ARE NECESSARY TO PRACTICALLY

DO CLEANING, DYEING, BLEACHING, BLOCKING, REMODELING OF

HATS, but many are under the impression that the work is difficult to do

and that to engage in, or to start the enterprise, requires a large investment

of money for equipments, supplies, hat tools, etc.

HAT TOOLS, SUPPLIES, ETC. — All that is absolutely necessary is the
knowing how to do the work and the following equipments, hat tools, sup-
plies, etc., according to this special book of instructions, trade secrets: 7 Hat
Blocks, of the style preferred, as per the following sizes: 6. 1-2, 6 3-4, 6 7-8,
7, 7 1-8, 7 1-4, 7 1-2. 7 Band Blocks, as per the following sizes: 6 1-2, 6
3-4, 6 7-8, 7, 7 1-8, 7 1-4, 7 1-2. One Hatter's Iron, 1 Curling Shackle, 1
Block Spinner, 1 Curling or Shaping Board, 1 Tolliker, 1 Puller Down, 1
Runner Round, 1 Brim Iron, 1 Spring Rounding Jack, 1 Stretch Block, 1

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

Size Ring, 1 Telescope Block, 1 Brim Brush, 1 Penetrating Brush, 1 Finish-
ing Brush, 1 Block Cord and other supplies, etc., as follows: Hat Bands or
Ribbons, Sweat Bands or Leathers, Sweat Band Bows, Stickers, Hat Pads,
Dry-Cleaning Soap, 1 Work Table, 1 Work Board, 1 Small Gasoline Burner,
1 Steam Can, Pressing Cloths, and other things, such as needles, thread, etc.

CLEANING FLUIDS — In starting practically it will be necessary to have
on hand in the beginning a small amount of gasoline to wash, scour and
clean the hats and other necessaries, such as hat stiffening, etc.

THE WORK TABLE— This table should be nothing more than a com-
mon, ordinary table, with duck or canvas cloth tacked tightly over same.

THE WORK BOARD — This board should be in size, 18x20 inches, smooth-
ly and nicely finished on each side. One side of the board is used to work
light colored hats, and the other side of the board is used to work dark col-
ored or black hats.

SPECIAL NOTE — Caution must be used in working light shades of hats
on account of the dyes left on the work board from working dark or black
hats and this is the reason why the work board should have the two special
sides.

BUSINESS PLACES SUITABLE FOR THE HAT CLEANING, BLOCK-
ING, ETC., BUSINESS — In starting the enterprise it is best to have, or open
the establishment on the ground floor, but same can be successfully estab-
lished and conducted in office rooms, etc., or in your own residence. Other
places of business, conducted by others, as follows, make splendid places for
establishing the enterprise, such as exclusive Dry Goods Stores, Barber
Shops, Gents' Furnishing Stores, and various other places of business, etc.
However, use your own judgment in regard to the location in opening and
establishing the enterprise.

THE HATTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE OR BOOK OF TRADE SECRETS.

The object of this valuable and practical book, or system, or course of in-
structions is to teach you a profitable and independent trade, and show you
how to start in business for yourself on but little or no capital. There is
nothing difficult about the plans and instructions, etc., and if you are will-
ing to put forth your best efforts, throwing all your energy into the the

CLEANING, BLEACHING, DYEING, TRIMMING, RESHAPING,
REBLOCKING OF HATS, "MAKING OVER OLD HATS NEW,

There is no reason why you should not succeed in learning the practical
trade and establishing the profitable and independent money-making busi-
ness enterprise.

If you are willing to work hard for some one else for a salary, or where

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

your income is not sufficient for your wants, or where there is no chance to
better your financial condition, etc., you have all the more incentive to work
when you know that you, yourself, are going to reap all the benefits of a
profitable and independent trade or business enterprise.

When, added to this, you know that you have an opportunity to make
money out of a profitable and independent trade, or practical business en-
terprise of your own, where you get paid in full Cash Profit Dollars for your
service, your work is a pleasure and becomes fascinating.

If you can do any one thing as well as anyone else, your success depends
only upon the amount of ambition you are capable of exerting. If you can
do any one thing better than anyone else, success is certain. This is an age
in which specialists succeed in a greater measure than those who do many
things well, and the man or woman who can do any one thing better than
anyone else has but to let the fact be known, and the opportunity to succeed
will seek you out, no matter where you locate.

The instructions, plans, etc., contained here, within THE HATTER'S
GUIDE OR BOOK OF TRADE SECRETS are not all of them new; in fact,
all have been tried and the same are practical knowledge, acquired by prac-
tical experiments in the business enterprise.

The trade, or the instructions, etc., are not difficult or hard to learn, or
overworked, and the hustler who learns the profitable trade and establishes
the independent enterprise and pushes it energetically will find that he has
a good thing in which to make money.

Remember, always, that the man or woman who becomes easily discour-
aged rarely ever succeeds in establishing a profitable and independent mon-
ey-making business enterprise.

With best wishes for your success,

Yours very truly,

ROBERT W. M. HOLMES.

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

M£~

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

HOW TO CLEAN ALL KINDS OF SOFT FELTS, FUR,
DERBYS, STIFF OR SILK HATS.

In the cleaning of hats that are to be blocked, dyed, or remodeled, first
take the sweatband out and the hat-band or ribbon off, then brush and re-
move as much dirt', dust, etc., from hat as possible in order to receive the
best results in the cleaning of same.

HOW TO CLEAN SLIGHTLY SOILED HATS— If the hat is but slightly
soiled, scour or scrub all parts of the hat (using a stiff brush) in hot or cold
gasoline, in which a small amount of dry-cleaning soap has been dissolved.
Then rinse the hat in clean gasoline and place in sun to dry. When dry the
hat-stiffening is then applied.

HOW TO CLEAN BADLY SOILED HATS— In the cleaning of badly soil-
ed hats, they should be soaked in gasoline for several hours, or for a day or
night, then afterwards scoured and scrubbed, etc., as per the above specified
instructions for the cleaning of slightly soiled hats.

SPECIAL NOTE — If hats are only to be cleaned, do not remove the
sweat-band or leather, or the hat-bands or ribbons, unless same are badly
soiled. Also do not apply stiffening to hats that are only to be cleaned, but
apply the stiffening to all hats that are re-blocked, dyed, or remodeled in
order to receive the best possible results.

HOW TO MAKE HAT STIFFENING SOLUTION, TO STIFFEN, OR
RE-STIFFEN ALL KINDS OF SOFT, FELTS, AND FUR HATS.

HAT STIFFENING SOLUTION — To make, should be mixed or, prepared,
as per the following instructions : First break, or crush up into small lumps,
about 1-4 pound of WHITE OR BLEACHED GUM SHELLAC, then place
same in a bottle, or jar, and pour about 1-2 gal of WOOD, OR DENATURED
ALCOHOL over the shellac in the bottle or jar, and let it set ten or twelve
hours and it is ready for using.

SPECIAL NOTE — The above Hat Stiffening Solution is a preparation
easily prepared and the chemicals used for making same can be purchased at
most all drag stores. It is a solution, that produces the results desired and
it is worth the price paid for this book of instructions, to any one, in the Hat
Cleaning, Dyeing, Blocking and Remodeling Business.

HOW TO STIFFEN OR RE-STIFFEN HATS.

To stiffen or re-stiffen a hat, pour a small amount of the HAT- STIF-
FENING SOLUTION from the bottle or jar, into a glass or cup, then take a
small brush (paint brush) about one inch wide, and apply the hat-stiffening
to all parts of the hat, using more or less of the solution, 1 to 3 ounces, or
more, according to the size and condition of a hat.

SPECIAL IMPORTANT NOTICE— In order that you may fully under-
stand the hat-stiffening solution, the following will explain same. The shel-
lac will not thoroughly dissolve in the wood alcohol, but a sufficient amount

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

will dissolve to produce the results desired. When the stiffening stands ten
days, or more, it will require less of the solution to stiffen hats. After you
have used up all of the solution in the bottle or jar, do not throw away what
remains, but again pour 1-2 gallon of wood alcohol over the shellac that re-
mains and let stand for several days and it will produce the same results.
If necessary add a small amount of shellac, about 1-8 of a pound.

HOW TO BLOCK AND REMODEL ALL KINDS OF
SOFT, FELTS, OR FUR HATS.

BLOCKING AND REMODELING HATS— After the hat has been stiffen-
ed and same is dry the first thing to do is to place the hat over the hat-block
and pull it completely down on the block with the puller down or work the
crown of the hat down on the block with the hands.

If you can not get the crown of hat completely down on the block per
the above instructions, then steam the hat, as per the instruction that follow:
(How to Steam Hats) ; then repeat the above instructions, etc., immediately
after steaming and you can easily work the hat down on the block.

After you have the hat on the block, take a strong cord or string and make
a slip-knot loop in same, then place the hat-cord or string around the crown
of the hat (on block) and draw the string tight. Now then take, runner
round and work the hat cord, or string down to the bottom parts of the hat
crown on the block. You should now pounce the crown of the hat, with
pouncing paper.

HOW TO POUNCE A HAT WITH POUNCING PAPER.

TO POUNCE A HAT — Take a piece of pouncing paper about four inches
square and pounce the crown of the hat on the block thoroughly, until it
produces a new appearance.

After you have pounced the crown of the hat, same must be brushed thor-
oughly with the short hair penetrating bush, then brush the crown of the
hat with long hair penertating brush.

After the crown of hat has been pounced with the pouncing paper and the
penetrating brushes, the hat must be steamed thoroughly, according to the
following instructions, etc.

HOW TO STEAM ALL KINDS OF HATS WHEN REBLOCKING
OR REMODELING.

TO STEAM HATS — Get a three gallon bucket, or a five gallon can and
place, or fasten a double string, or cord, across can or bucket to hold the hat
and keep same from falling into the bucket or can, then pour about one
quart, or one-half gallon of water in the bucket or can and place it, on the
fire and allow the water to boil.

When the water is boiling briskly, place the hat you have on the block (do
not remove hat from block) between the two strings, or cords, on the steam
can or bucket which will hold the hat on top of the steam can, (crown of hat
in steam can) and keep the hat from falling down into the water. Now,
then allow the hat to steam, thoroughly, four or five minutes, then remove
from steam can and place the block on the spinner and lure the crown of

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

the hat, according to the instructions, etc., that follow:

HOW TO LURE ALL KINDS OF SOFT, FELTS AND FUR HATS.

TO LURE A HAT — The first thing to do, have your iron hot, then take a
piece of satin cloth, or white domestic cloth, folded several times, and hold
the cloth, or pad, to the hot iron, until both, or pad is hot, then immediately,
place the hot pad on top of the hat crown (press pad down hard on crown)
and catch the brim of the hat with the left hand and turn the block on the
spinner, turning it around, unitl you have lured all parts of the hat crown.
Repeat the warming of the luring pad or cloth and applying it to the hat
crown, according to the above instructions, as often as necessary, several
times will produce the best results.

After you have finished lureing the hat crown, remove the hat-cord or
string and slip the hat off of the hat-block. To remove the hat from the
hat block, take hold of the bottom part of the hat-block with one hand and
work and pull carefully, on the brim of the hat with the other hand, until
the hat slips from the hat-block. If the hat is hard to start from the hat-
block take a thin strip of card board and slip same, around between the hat
and the hat-block, then slip the hat from the hat-block.

Now, after the hat, or the crown of the hat, has been removed or slipped
from the hat-block, the first thing to do is to place the "band block" on the
work table, or board, and place or slip the bottom opening of the crown of
the hat on over the "band block" on the table or board, pushing same dow«
over the "band block" with the hands, evenly all the way around, down to
the bottom edge of the "band block"on the table or board The brim of the
hat is now the next part that requires attention, and the same is now to be
ironed and pressed out, as follows:

HOW TO BLOCK, RE-BLOCK, OR REMODEL THE BRIMS OF
VARIOUS KINDS OF SOFT, FELTS AND FUR HATS.

TO BLOCK, REBLOCK, OR REMODEL THE BRIMS OF SOFT, FELTS,
OR FUR HATS — In the blocking, or pressing the brims a pressing cloth is
absolutely necessary, and same should be of cotton flannel cloth and placed
over the brim of the hat in ironing and pressing the brim out, or blocking
same.

Now place the pressing cloth over a small portion of the brim and dampen
the pressing cloth with a wet sponge, then iron and press the parts out, (with
a hot iron) that is under the pressing cloth.

(NOTE — In using the iron, press down firmly and push the sharp edge of
the iron up against the band-block.)

As soon as this part is pressed immediately remove the pressing cloth and
apply the TOLLIKER to the parts just pressed, rubbing same briskly.
Then iron and press out the next parts of the hat brim, according to the
above instructions, until all parts of the hat brim have been ironed and
pressed out.

Let the hat still remain flat on the table or work-board. Take the short
hair PENETRATING BRUSH and pounce or brush the top part of the brim,

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

hard and briskly, then take the long hair PENETRATING BRUSH and brush
the brim lightly, then take the finishing brush, or duster and dust the brlr.i
with same.

Now lift the hat carefully from the table, or work-board, (do not remove
the band block from hat) and place your finger in the hole in the band-
block, then place the hat in against the grove in the side of the work-board
and pounce, or brush the bottom parts of the brim, using the penetrating
brushes according to the above instructions, etc. When you have finished
pouncing the bottom parts of the brim (do not remove band-block from hat)
again lay or place the hat flat on the work-board and curl the outer ed^e
of the hat brim, according to the instructions, etc. that follow:

HOW TO CURL THE BRIMS OF SOFT, FELTS AND FUR HATS

TO CURL THE BRIM OF A HAT— Use the Curling Iron or Shackle, as
follows: Place or lay the hat flat on the table, or work-board and curl the
outer edge of the brim, with the curling shackle, having the curling iron, or
shackle, moderately hot (just hot enough that it will not scorch hat) dampen
with a wet sponge, about one inch of the outer top edge of the brim all the
way around, then place the edge of the brim, into the hot curler of iron or
shackle, and run the shackle all around the edge of the hat brim, several
times if necessary, or until the proper curl has been made in the hat brim.

NOTE — After you have curled the edge of the brim «-*- 3 want to make a
neat job, again dampen the curl that you have made and slip shackle, or curl-
ing iron, on the curl and carefully and evenly run same around the curl. Af-
ter a little practice you can easily and quickly cu**l the brims of hats, and
make different sizes of curls, with the same, or only one size curling iron or
shackle.

After the brim has been curled, remove the band-block from the hat and
shape, re-shape, or curve the brim of the hat, according to the instructions,
etc., that follow:

HOW TO SHAPE, RESHAPE, OR CURVE THE BRIMS OF HATS.

TO SHAPE, RE-SHAPE, OR CURVE THE BRIM OF A HAT— The first
thing to do, place the steam can or bucket on the fire, containing about a
quart of water and allow same to boil and steam briskly, then place a cloth
over the top of the steam can. Now place the SHAPEING OR CURLING
BOARD in a convenient place, or position, then take the hat in the hands and
slip or insert the brim of the hat, under the cloth on the steam-can and steam
and curl, or shape the other side of the brim, then steam and shape the
back side, and then steam and shape the front part of the hat brim.

The hat is now completely Cleaned, Blocked, or remodeled and same
should be trimmed, as per the instructions, etc., that follow:

HOW TO TRIM, OR RE-TRIM HATS, PLACING AND SEWING THE
LEATHERS IN AND THE HAT-RIBBONS ON HATS.

HOW TO PLACE, CUT AND SEW THE SWEATBAND, OR LEATHER
IN A HAT — First place or fit the leather in the hat (ends laping over each
other) and mark the correct size on the leather to fit the hat, then remove
same, and cut off each end of the leather, at the mark, slightly sloping, then

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

pull about one inchof;the reed (reed in. top edge ol leather) out and insert
the reed (parts pulled out) into the other end of the leather, then place ,fehe
leather on the work board and apply the sticker to the back side of the leath-
er, uniting the two ends together. Now then, sew the little silk bow on in its
place at the bottom part of the united ends of the leather, and run the need-
le from the little bow to the flap on the back side of leather and sew the flap
ends together. The needle is then run back through the leather, just under
the reed. Now, place or fit the leather correctly in the hat and run the
needle back through the leather, (just under the reed) almost in the same
needle hole and on through the hat. Then you make a stitch about one inch
long and run the needle back through the hat, on through the leather, just
under the reed, and then run needle, back almost in the same needle hole,
rnd so en, until the leather is sewed in the hat all the way around.

When you have finished, turn the leather inside out of the hat, and sew
the ribbons on the hat, according to the instructions, etc., that follow :
HOW TO CUT, PLACE AND SEW THE HAT RIBBONS ON A HAT.

First place the ribbon around the hat and cut to fit, so it will lack about
one or two inches reaching around the crown of the hat.

Now place the ribbon on the hat, so that the two ends of the ribbon to the
left side of the hat crown and sew, or tack, the two ends of the ribbon to
each other, running the needle, first in one end and then in the other end of
ribbon, drawing the two ends toward each other sufficiently to make the
ribbon medium tight around the crown of the hat, and then -(with point of
needle) make the ribbon fit down properly all around the hat. Then sew
the hat-bow on and the ribbon down around the hat as follows:

HOW TO MAKE THE HAT-BOW AND TACK SAME ON THE HAT AND
SEW THE RIBBON DOWN AROUND THE HAT.

To make the hat-bow, cut a piece of ribbon about six inches long and a
piece long enough to go around the width of the ribbon. Now then, fold
the short piece twice, then double the six inch piece of ribbon and place the
short folded piece around the middle of the six inch piece and tack the two
ends of the short piece together and the hat-bow is made.

You now place the hat-bow on the left side of the hat, over the break in
the ribbon that is around the hat, and sew or tack same neatly on the hat
and the ribbon on, all the way around the crown of the hat, sewing or tack-
ing only at the bottom edge of the ribbon. To tack the ribbon down around
the hat, start from the inside of the hat, through the little flap on the leath-
er, running the needle through the flap and hat and on out through the rib-
bon, at the very bottom edge, then run the needle back through, almost in
the same needle hole, through the ribbon, hat and the little flap on the leath-
er, then make a stitch about two or three inches long, and when you have
finished tacking the ribbon down, etc., around the hat, you then turn the
leather back in its proper place, or position, and insert, or place the hat-
stretcher in the hat and tighten, or only slightly stretch the hat in order to
smooth out the leather nicely and make same fit, jam up. Now remove the
hat-stretcher and brush, or dust the hat lightly and you have, CLEANED,

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

BLOCKED AND REMODELED the hat, according to the above complete
specified instructions, etc., and STYLE NO. 1, The Curl Brim Hat.

STYLE N. 2 — The Straight Brim Hat — In working this style do not curl
the brim of the hat, simply slightly crimp or cup, the edge of the brim with
the Curling Shackle, or iron, then shape the brim of the hat, according to
specified instructions, etc., for shapeing, or re-shapeing the brims of hats.

STYLE NO. 3 — The Roll Brim Hat — In working this style you first curl
the brim with the curling shackle, then immediately after curling same, take
the tolliker and slightly knock or press the curl open, then use your thumb
and fingers and make the curve or roll in the edge of the brim, neatly work-
ing with the thumb and fingers, until you make the proper curve, or roll, in
the brim of the hat, then shape, or set the brim according to the instructions,
etc., for shapeing, or re-shapeing and remodeling the brims of hats.

SPECIAL IMPORTANT NOTICE— In working the various shapes of hats
if you will practice and use a little of genious thinking and make an earnest
effort, you can easily shape, or re-shape and remodel various styles of hats
and we suggest that you make the effort to accomplish the results.

HOW TO CLEAN, BLOCK AND REMODEL DERBYS,
STIFF, OR SILK HATS.

The same, are worked, cleaned, blocked, remodeled, etc , practically in the
same manner, as soft, or felt hats, etc. But a special set of hat-blocks are
required in the working, blocking, etc., of same.

SPECIAL NOTE — As an investment, with small capital, we would not advise
you to purchase a special set of hat-blocks, etc., for this work, as derbys, or
stiff, etc., are not presented as readily as soft, felts, furs, panama and straw
hats. The Cleaning, Polishing and trimming of Derbys, Stiff or Silk Hats,
is much more in demand than the blocking or remodeling of same, and re-
quires no special set of Hat Tools.

WITH THE ABOVE SPECIFIED INSTRUCTIONS, TRADE SECRETS,

ETC., YOU CAN WITH A LITTLE PRACTICE AND GENIOUS THINKING,

CLEAN, BLOCK, SHAPE, TRIM AND REMODEL VARIOUS DIFFERENT

KINDS OF SOFT OR FELT HATS.

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

■et T" ir

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

THE DYEING OF HATS.

HOW TO DYE VARIOUS DIFFERENT KINDS OF SOFT, FELTS AND
FUR HATS AND RE-BLOCK OR REMODEL SAME.— In dyeing hats, first
clean same with gasoline, and when dry scour and scrub the hat with soap
and water, rinse out in clean water, then dye the hat according to the in-
structions, etc., that follow:

SPECIAL NOTICE— Dye hats, with most any of the commercial dyes
(these dyes can be purchased from most any Drug Store) for dyeing wool,
or silk which usually gives excellent results, in the dyeing of soft, felts and
fur hats.

VESSEL FOR DYEING— In dyeing hats, use a tin can, or a brass pot and
same should be sufficiently large enough to work, or dye the hat completely
submerged in the dye solution. In other words the can or bross pot should
be large enough to hold several gallons of water, or dye solution.

HOW TO MIX, OR PREPARE THE DYE BATH OR SOLUTION
FOR DYEING HATS.

To determine how much dye will be required to dye a hat, weigh the hat.
Usually a tablespoon of dye will dye a hat weighing 2 or 3 pounds a full
shade. To mix or prepare the dye bath or solution, first moisten the dye
with cold water and then add slowly one quart of boiling water, stirring un-
til the dye is thoroughly dissolved and then strain this dye solution, through
a cloth, into the dye can or pot, which should contain a sufficient amount of
(water (2 or 3 gallons of water) to cover all parts of the hat. Now then,
moisten or wet the hat with water and immediately place same in the dye
bath, or solution, which should then be brought to a boiling hsat and so con-
tinued for 20 to 40 minutes.

SPECIAL NOTE — In dyeing, do not allow the hat to float but keep all parts
of the hat immersed in the dye bath, or solution, stirring and punching the
hat under and around in the solution, until the hat is thoroughly dyed the
desired shade.

After dye solution containing the hat, has boiled sufficiently to dye the
hat, remove the dye can, or pot from the fire, then take the hat out of the
dye solution, and immediately plunge, or immerse, wash and rinse the hat in
hot, or warm salty water for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse same in warm
water and allow the hat to dry.

When the hat is dry, apply the hat stiffening solution and block and re-
model same, according to the instructions, etc., HOW TO BLOCK, SHAPE,
REMODEL, ETC., VARIOUS KINDS OF SOFT, FELTS AND FUR HATS.

SPECIAL NOTICE — Do not try to dye dark colors a lighter shade, they
must be dyed a darker shade, or a similar shade.

With the above complete instructions, etc., you can successfully dye
various different kinds of soft, felts and fur hats and re-block and remodel

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

MT

J [■..^-L.._. - i ...

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

HOW TO CLEAN, BLEACH. BLOCK AND REMODEL DIFFERENT
KINDS OF PANAMA, LEGHORNS, BANCROFT, STRAW AND OTHER
HATS OF THIS VARIETY TOO NUMEROUS TO LIST — ALL HATS IN
THIS CLASS ARE CLEANED, BLEACHED, BLOCKED AND REMODEL-
ED, PRACTICALLY ACCORDING TO THE METHODS, PROCESSES AND
INSTRUCTIONS, ETC., THAT FOLLOW:

HOW TO CLEAN AND BLEACH A PANAMA HAT— In cleaning and
bleaching a Panama hat, remove the ribbons and the leather, or sweatband,
then scour and scrub all parts of the hat with soap and water, then rinse in
clean water and immediately bleach the hat, according to the following in-
structions, etc. :

HOW TO MAKE OR REPAIR A BLEACHING PASTE AND BLEACH
PANAMA HATS WITH SAME — To make or mix the bleaching paste first
get a glass jar (1 gallon fruit jar) and pour about 1 quart of water in same,
then add to this water about 4 or 6 ounces of PROXIDE and dissolve in this
mixture 1 ounce of BORAX and 2 ounces of OXALIC ACID and when the
borax and oxalic acid have thoroughly dissolved, add SULPHUR to the so-
lution, until the mixture is a thick SULPHUR PASTE.

SPECIAL NOTE — For cleaning and bleaching Panama and Straw hats
of various kinds, the above mixture of sulphur paste, combined with the
method or process, cleans and bleaches to a perfection and gives that new ef-
fect expected in the cleaning and bleaching of Panama and straw hats.
This Sulphur Bleaching Paste is the result of the experience of a Practical
Hatter, having spent ten years or more in the Hat Cleaning, Blocking Busi-
ness and the above Special Formula, Method and Instructions, is practically
worth the price paid for this valuable book of trade secrets.

Now then, after you have scoured, or scrubbed the hat with soat> and water
and rinsed same in clean water, immediately apply the SULPHUR BLEACH-
ING PASTE to all parts of the hat, thoroughlv with a small brush, or the
hand and then place the hat in the sun and allow same to dry and bleach
several hours.

When the hat is thoroughly dry and has bleached in the sun for several
hours., then brush the DRY SULPHUR PASTE from the hat and make and

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

apply the HAT STIFFENING for Panama Hats, according to the instruc-
tions, etc., that follow:

HOW TO MIX AND MAKE HAT STIFFENING SOLUTION FOR STIF-
FENING VARIOUS KINDS OF PANAMA, LEGHORNS, MILAN AND
STRAW HATS AND OTHER HATS IN THIS CLASS.

To make and mix the Stiffening or Solution, dissolve about 1 ounce of
GUM ARABIC and about 1 ounce of GUM TRAGACANTH in about 1
quart of BOILING HOT WATER and apply (hot or cold) this stiffening so-
lution to Panama, Straw, Hats, Etc., with a cloth or brush and allow the
stiffening solution to dry on the hat. When dry block, remodel and trim
the hat according to the instructions, etc., that follow:

HOW TO BLOCK, REMODEL, ETC.

In blocking and remodeling Panama hats and other hats in this class
first place the hat-block on the spinner and then place the hat correctly ov-
er the hat-block and pull it completely down on, over the block with the pul-
ler-down, or work the hat down on the block with the hands.

If you can not get the crown of the hat down on the block, according to
the above instructions, then steam the hat as per the instructions (How to
Steam Hats) then repeat the above instructions, immediately after steaming
the hat and you can easily work the crown of the hat down on the hat-block.
After you have the hat on the block, take a strong cord or string (blocking
cord) and make a slip-knot loop in same, then place the hat-cord or string-
around the crown of the hat (on block) and draw the string tight and then
work the hat-cord or string down to the bottom parts of the hat crown, with
the runner-round. After you have the blocking-cord, or string in its place,
the crown of the hat should be steamed, according to the specified instruc-
tions, How to Steam all kinds of Hats, That are Reblocked, Remodeled, etc.
Now then, after you have steamed the crown of the hat, place the hat-block,
(hat on block) on the spinner, then place the pressing cloth over the top part
of the crown and iron and press the top parts, of same.

Then, when you have ironed and pressed the top parts, remove from the
spinner and lay the crown of the hat flat on the work-board, holding the bot-
tom parts of the block with the left hand and the brim of the hat extending
down on the out side edge of the work-board, then lay or spread the pressing
cloth over the upper side parts of the crown of the hat, and iron and press

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

same in this manner, until you have ironed and pressed all parts of the
crown of the hat.

After having finished ironing and pressing the crown, place same back on
the spinner, then pounce, or brush the crown thoroughly with the penetrating
brush, then fold a piece of white domestic cloth several times and hold the
cloth, or pad to a hot iron, and immediately place the hot cloth or pad on
the top part of the crown and turn the hat on the spinner, until the hat
cloth or pad has been applied to all parts of the hat crown several times.

After having applied the hot cloth, or pad, remove the blocking-cord, or
string, slip the hat from the hat-block. To remove the hat from the hat-
block take hold of the bottom part of the block with one hand and work and
pull carefully on the brim of the hat with the other hand, until the hat slips
from the hat-block. Then work or block the brim of the hat according to
the instructions, that follow:

HOW TO BLOCK, REMODEL, OR RESHAPE VARIOUS KINDS
OF LEGHORN AND STRAW HATS, ETC.

In the blocking or pressing of the brims a pressing cloth is absolutely
necessary and same should be of White Domestic Cloth and placed over the
brims in pressing out or blocking same.

To work the brim, place the band-block on the work-board and slip the hat

on over the band-block, then place the pressing cloth over parts of the brim

of the hat, dampen the cloth with a sponge or cloth and iron or press the

parts out, that is under the pressing cloth and as soon as this part is pressed

remove the pressing cloth and immediately apply the TOLLIKER to the parts

of the brim accordingly, until all parts of the hat brim have been ironed and

pressed out, then thoroughly brush the top part of the brim of the hat with

the penetrating brush, finishing with the duster.

Now lift the hat carefully from the work-board (do not remove the band-
block) and place your finger in the band-block, then hat in against the grove
on the work-board (crown down) and pounce, or brush the bottom parts
of the hat with the penetrating brush and when you have finished the brush-
ing of the same, again lay or place the hat flat (do not remove band-block)
on work-board and work the brims of Panama, Leghorn, Milan, Straws and
other hats of this variety, according to the specified instructions, etc., How

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

To Curl, Shape, Remodel and Trim, Etc., Soft, Felts, And Fur Hats.

IMPORTANT NOTICE — Just after you have shaped, or re-shaped Pana-
ma, Leghorns, and Straw Hats (before placing or sewing the ribbons on
same) sprinkle all parts of the hat with TALCUM POWDERS, rubbing and
brushing the Talcum Powders thoroughly on the hat, and then afterwards
thoroughly brush and dust the Talcum Powders from the hat. Then trim
the hat according to instructions, etc.

SPECIAL REMARKS — With the above methods, processes and instruc-
tions, etc., and with a little practice and geneous thinking, you should be
able with this valuable Book of Trade Secrets, to clean, bleach, block, trim
and remodel various different kinds of Panama, Leghorn, Milan, and Straw
Hats and produce the work that would satisfy the most particular customer,
that appreciates good workmanship and patronizes the business.

riftiiii if in ■Biiii

"■"esp"!***"

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

SPECIAL IMPORTANT MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS, INFORMA-
TION, POINTERS AND VALUABLE TRADE SECRETS, PERTAINING
TO THE HAT CLEANING, DYEING, BLOCKING AND REMODELING OF
SOFT, FELTS AND FUR HATS, AND THE VARIOUS DIFFERENT KINDS
OF PANAMA, LEGHORNS, HEMP, MILAN, AND STRAW HATS AND
OTHER SIMULAR HATS OF THIS VARIETY, OR CLASS.

HOW TO CLEAN (OLD HAT) RIBBONS— Clean first with gasoline, then
clean with soap and water, rinse in clean water and press same at once.

HOW TO DYE (OLD OR NEW) RIBBONS— Clean first with gasoline.
Then remove the ribbon from the dye solution and rinse in warm water and
press the ribbons at once.

HOW TO TELESCOPE THE CROWN OF A HAT— First place the Tele-
scope Block on the spinner, then place the hat over, or correctly on the Tel-
escope Block, then fit the cap on the Telescope Block on the block, pushing
the parts of the hat to be telescoped, down with the same. Then remove
the cap and place the pressing cloth over the parts, dampen and press with
the iron, then remove the pressing cloth and apply the TOLLIKER, briskly
to the parts, then remove the hat from the Telescope Block and the hat will
be properly telescoped.

HOW TO CLEAN, BLEACH, BLOCK AND REMODEL PANAMA, LEG-
HORN, STRAW HATS, ETC., ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS
THAT FOLLOW — In working Panama Hats, etc., some few practical hatters
(when hat is not badly soiled) first place, or slip the hat on the hat-block
and then tie same down on the hat-block with the blocking-cord (run the hat-
cord down to its place) and then scour or scrub the hat with a mixture of
solution of borax, proxide and the SULPHUR BLEACHING PASTE to all
parts of the hat and place in the sun and allow the hat to bleach and dry on
the hat-block, for several hours then brush the sulphur paste from the hat
and apply the hat-stiffening solution, and allow to dry, then steam, work and

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

finish the hat, according to the specified instructions, etc., following — How
to Steam all Kinds of Hats.

SPECIAL NOTE — The above is a good idea when you have plenty of time,
but too slow when you have hats in bunches, or plenty of hats to work and
finish at the same time. However, when working Leghorns, Milan, Straw
Hats or other hats of this description, that would would possibly get too
much out of shape, or would fall completely, when scoured with soap and
water, should be scoured, cleaned and bleached, according to the above in-
structions, etc.

In working the crown of a Panama, Leghorn, Straw Hats, etc., when same
does not particular require blocking and is not badly soiled it is not neces-
sary to block the crown of the hat. Simply remove the ribbons and clean
and bleach same with the sulphur paste and allow to bleach and dry in the
sun. When the hat is dry, brush the paste from the hat and finish working
the hat by doing whatever is necessary to finish same.

When brushing the dry sulphur bleaching paste from Panama hats, etc.,
save as much of it as possible to use in cleaning and bleaching other hats.

In making Hat Stiffening Solution for Panama, Straw Hats, etc., do not
make more than necessary as it will spoil in a few days. However if it is
necessary the solution can be used when spoiled, but it is not pleasant to the
sense of smell.

Don't be a slacker, give your customers the best possible service.

The Sulphur Cleaning and Bleaching Paste is worth the price of this book
of instructions, etc., to any one in the hat cleaning business.

NOTICE — If you have purchased this valuable book of trade secrets and

are working hats we will assist you with any work that you are doubtful

about doing, providing you will write us about it and enclose 10c or 25c to

pay for the expense of this service. Address all letters of this kind to

ROBERT W. M. HOLMES, San Angelo, Texas.

HOW TO POLISH HATS, DERBYS, STIFF, SOFT, FELT, FUR HATS,
ETC., — Take a piece of cotton cloth and fold several times, making a pad of
same, then apply the cloth to a hot iron and when pad or cloth is hot imme-
diately apply the hot side of the pad to the hat, rubbing same around the hat
until it is polished. Repeat the above as often as necessary to get the pol-
ish desired.

HOW TO HEAT GASOLINE — To heat gasoline, secure tin buckets and
fill with water and place the water on the stove or fire and allow same to
boil ; then secure a tin bucket or can, smaller than the bucket containing the

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

water, and fill same with gasoline. (CAUTION: DO NOT PLACE THE
GASOLINE ON OR NEAR THE FIRE OR STOVE.)

Now then, take the bucket of boiling water away from the fire and put
the bucket or can containing the gasoline in the bucket containing the boil-
ing hot water; allow the same to remain in same until the gasoline is thor-
oughly hot. When the gasoline is hot you are then ready to wash, scour and
clean with hot gasoline.

CAUTION — Do not handle the gasoline around or near the fire.

HEATING THE IRONS — To heat the iron, etc., purchase from most any
hardware dealer a small gasoline stove or burner. However, use your own
judgment in regard to heating the irons, etc.

THE PRACTICAL SPOTTER OR TAMPION— This is very useful and
handy in the removal of various spots and stains, etc., not removed in the
washing and cleaning of hats. It should be made out of two pieces of wool-
en cloth, by placing the two pieces together and rolling same tightly into a
roll; then sew same, so it will not unroll. The same is used for applying the
cleaning fluids to the various spots, stains, etc., as per the fluids, instruc-
tions, etc., specified for the removal of spots, stains, etc., not removed in the
washing, scouring and cleaning of hats.

HOW TO POLISH PANAMA OR STRAW HATS— Take a talcum powder
or magnesia and sprinkle over all parts of hat; then take a brush and polish
same brushing the hat thoroughly.

HOW TO BLEACH A PANAMA OR STRAW HAT— Take 5c worth of
sulphur, 1 teaspoonful tartaric acid and a pinch of cream of tartar; mix to
a paste with water and apply or scour the hat with the above and place in
sun to dry. When dry brush the sulphur from hat. In bleaching it is al-
ways best to scour the hat lightly in water before applying the bleach.

HOW TO CLEAN "BLACK" HAT RIBBONS— Simply scour and scrub
with laundry soap and water, using a stiff brush. When clean, rinse and
while wet (do not wring out) press with a hot iron until dry and then will
look like new trimmings.

NOTE — White shades, or clors of trimmings, ribbons, etc., are difficult to
clean satisfactorily but when some cannot be cleaned, simply clean thorough-
ly, and dye, black, blue, or any other color desired, then press with a hot iron
while very damp, and the ribbons can be satisfactorily used for trimming va-
rious hats, etc.

HOW TO CLEAN ALL KINDS OF FINE K^T TRIMMINGS ETC
PLUMES, FEATHERS, TIPS, ETC.,— Simply clean with gasoline, using the

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

dry cleaning soap with sam«.

FANCY ARTICLES — Clean with gasoline using gasoline dry cleaning
soap.

HOW TO DYE OR TINT FEATHERS, PLUMES, TIPS AND FINE FAN-
CY ARTICLES OF TRIMMING — Take "Tube Paints" any color and mix
with gasoline; then dip the article to be tinted or dyed, in the solution and
allow evaporation. When dry and it is not satisfactory, repeat the opera-
tion several times if necessary.

NOTE — In washing, scouring, etc., with gasoline, save the dirty gaso-
line; pour the same in a vessel or can and allow to settle; then, when the gas-
oline has settled and is clear, pour same into some other can or vessel. This
clear gasoline can then be used again in the washing, scouring and cleaning
of other hats, such as dark colored or black hats, but not light colored hats.
In washing, scouring and cleaning light hats always use the very cleanest
gasoline.

THE CLEANING AND REPLACING OF HAT BAND OR RIBBONS—
To Clean — Wash and clean hat bands or ribbons with hot or cold gasoline,
then allow same to dry and then press same or clean with soap and water,
then press.

Replacing Hat Bands Or Ribbons — Whenever the hat band or ribbon is
removed from hats and same is replaced on the hat, wash, clean, and press
same and then replace the cleanest side out. Light colored hat bands or
ribbons in many cases will be faded on the exposed side but the other side
of the same will not be faded, still retaining its original shade. To replace
hat bands or ribbons, the same are placed or replaced as per the instructions
specified in the placing of the hat band or ribbon on hats.

THE DYEING OF HAT BANDS OR RIBBONS— To dye hat bands or rib-
bons, prepare or mix dye solution or bath, as per the instructions specified
for preparing dye solution or bath for dyeing. Now, then, to dye bands or
ribbons, first thoroughly wash and clean same, and after cleaning, enter or
place the hat band or ribbon in the dye solution or bath, and boil same ten or
fifteen minutes.

After the dyeing of same is completed, remove the hat bands or ribbons
from the dye solution or bath, and immediately rinse same out thoroughly in

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

hot salt water. Then again rinse out in warm water as many times as nec-
essary to receive the best possible results obtained in dyeing. After rinsing
(do not wring the hat bands or ribbons out) hang same on line and allow to
dry. Then, when same are dry, carefully iron and press same.

HOW TO DRY-DYE OR COLOR STRAW, MILAN, LEGHORN HATS,
ETC., — Take dye of the clor desired and dissolve in alcohol and add an equal
part of white shellac, allow same to set for twelve hours; then apply the so-
lution to all parts of the hat with a sponge or brush; then allow the hat to
dry. If the shade should be dull apply a little sweet oil with a sponge to all
parts of the hat; then again allow same to dry. Then when the hat is dry,
finish same.

THE HEAT OF THE CURLING SHACKLE— In the reblocking of hats,
making over old hats new, it is very important that the irons should never be
too extremely hot, as in this event there is serious liability of scorching in
the ironing and curling the brim of hats.

SPECIAL IMPORTANT INSTRUCTING NOTE— To test the heat of the
Curling irons, always apply the hot irons to a piece of paper, and if same
does not scorch the paper the iron is not too hot and will not scorch the hat.

HAT MEASUREMENT.
HOW TO FIND THE SIZE HAT A MAN OR A BOY SHOULD WEAR.—

The following table applies to both boys' and men's sizes:

Hat Sizes. Inch. Around Head. Hat Sizes. Inch. Around Head.

6 3-8 19 3-4 7 1-8 : . . &2 1-8

6 1-2 20 1-4 7 1-4 22 1-2

6 5-8 \ 20 5-8 7 3-8 22 7-8.

6 3-4 21 7 1-2 23 3-4

6 7-$ 21 3-8 7 5-8 23 3-4

7 21 3-4 7 3-4 24 M-4

SPECIAL INSTRUCTING POINTER, OR NOTE— In reblocking, reshap-
ing, etc., of hats, use this scale of hat measurements to find the size of a

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

hat. Always measure the heads of your customers, as per the above hat

HOW TO CLEAN A NEW PANAMA OR STRAW HAT— Make a paste
of sulphur and gasoline and apply to the hat with the hands or brush then al-
low evaporation. When dry brush the sulphur from the hat and polish with
talcum powder and it will be clean.

HOW TO POLISH PANAMA AND STRAW HATS— Take Talcum Pow-
der and sprinkle over all parts, then use a brush to polish same, brushing the
hat thoroughly to remove the powder.

HOW TO DYE STRAW HATS THE VARIOUS DIFFERENT COLORS—
Take ordinary commercial drug store dyes, any color desired, and prepare a
dye solution as follows: Take 1 gal. of water and add 1 teaspoonful of
dye to the water and let same come to a boil ; then take the dye water from
the fire and add 5 drops of sulphuric acid and 5 drops of acetic acid; then
take a small brush and apply the solution to all parts of the hat to produce
the shade desirable.

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

M9~

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THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

FORMULAS, RECIPES OR TRADE SECRETS.

STRAW HATS— TO CLEAN WHILE YOU WAIT— IN 3 MINUTES—

Take tartic acid 1 oz., bi-sulphide of soda 1-4 oz.; dissolve in cup of water
and apply or scour all parts of the hat with the solution, using a stiff brush,
then wipe aff with a soft cloth and allow to dry. The hat will look clean
and new. Do not get the solution on the band or ribbons.

STRAW HAT AND PANAMA CLEANER — This preparation is made as
follows: 1 pound powdered tartaric acid, 1-4 pound powdered bi-sulphate of
soda. Mix intimately.

Directions: Mix the powder with half cup of water and apply with a
sponge or brush until the hat is well cleaned; then rinse off with clear wa-
ter. It is advisable, with all preparations, to remove the band while clean-
ing the hat. To preserve the shape while cleaning, stuff the inside of the
hat with newspaper.

TO REJUVENATE STRAW HATS — A white straw hat, if substantial,
may be bleached with equal parts of the juice of lemon and powdered sul-
phur, or equal parts of sulphur and cream of tartar made into a soft paste.
Apply the paste to the straw, place the hat in the sun so that the powder will
dry, and then brush carefully. This bleaches and removes all marks. Ful-
ler's earth or magnesia will clean a white Panama hat.

TO CLEAN AND BLEACH PANAMA HATS — Make a paste with flour
of sulphur with the following mixture: Mix 2 ounces of tartaric acid, 2
ounces of oxalic acid, 2 ounces of common salt in 3 parts of water, then
make a paste out of sulphur and the above mixture and apply the paste thor-
oughly to the Panama hat with the hands and lay in the sun to dry= When
dry brush the sulphur from the hat and then apply magnesia thoroughly
over the hat and brush off thoroughly with a soft brush.

Note — Always remove the ribbons or bands from hats in cleaning, etc.

HOW TO MAKE DRY-CLEANING SOAPS.

How To Make French Dry-Cleaning Soap — To make one gallon — One
quart castor oil, two ounces wood alcohol, two ounces of ethyl oxide, four
ounces carbon bisulphide. Take the wood alcohol and pour in the castor oil
and mix thoroughly. Then add ethyl oxide and mix. Then add the carbon
bisulphide until the solution turns white. Then add gasoline sufficient to
make one gallon. Directions For Using — Use 1 or 2 ounces of the soap in
1 or 2 gallons of gasoline in dry cleaning garments, etc., in gasoline.

How To Make Chemical Dry-Cleaning Soap — The following formula will
produce a dry cleaning soap solution, which can be made by any one. Take
oleic acid, five parts (by weight) ; caustic potash, one part. Dissolve in

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

methylated spirits four parts (by weight). "These proportions produce a
slight superfatted soap, freely soluable in gasoline or benzine. A brush
dipped in gasoline or benzine and rubbed in this soap disolves enough to
produce a plentiful lather when brushing goods. This is the general type
of most of the so-called dry cleaning soaps on the market, such soaps being
used to assist the cleaning process and to minimize the risk of fire.

Note— This soap should be used whenever possible in the washing and
cleaning of hats with hot or cold gasoline, but same is not absolutely neces-
sary in the process. Dry-Cleaning Soap is used in cleaning with gasoline,
the same as other soaps are used in washing and cleaning with soap and wa-
ter. Benzine soap can be purchased from any of the above Hatter's Supply
Houses at a cost of about five pounds to the dollar.

BLEACHES.

Straw — Dip the straw in a solution of oxygenated muriatic acid, saturated
with potash (oxygenated muriatt of lime is much cheaper). The straw is
thus rendered very white, and its flexibility is increased.

Straw is bleached by simply exposing it in a closed chamber to the fumes
of burning sulphur. An old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the
purpose by milliners and others, a flat stone being laid on the ground, the
sulphur ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the eroods to be bleached
turned over it. The goods should be previously washed in ure water.

Feathers, Plums, Tips, etc. — Place the feathers from 3 to 4 hours in a tep-
id dilute solution of bichromate of potassa, to which, cautiously, some nitric
acid has been added (a small quantity only). To remove a greenish hue in-
duced by this solution place them in a dilute solution of sulphuric acid, in
water, whereby the feathers become perf ectlv white and bleached.
STRAW HAT RENOVATION.

To Renovate Straw Hats Made of Natural (uncolored) Straw — Hats which
have become soiled by wear, may be cleaned by thoroughly sponging with a
weak solution of tartaric acid in water, followed by water alone. The hat
after being so treated should be fastened by the brim to a board by means
of pins, so that it will keep its shape in drying.

Waterproof Stiffening For Straw Hats — If a waterproof stiffening is re
quired use and mix one of the following three formulas: (1) Copae 450
parts, Sandarac 75 parts, Venice turpentine 40 parts, castor oil 5 parts, al-
cohol 800 parts. (2) Shellac 500 parts, Sandarac 175 parts, Venice tur-
pentine 50 parts, castor oil 15 uarts, alcohol 2,000 parts. (3) Shellac 750
parts, rosin 150 parts, Venice turpentine 150 parts, castor oil 20 parts, alco-
hol 2,5000 parts.

How To Clean a Genuine Panama Hat — Scrub the hat with castile soap
and ws.rm water, a nail brush being used as an aid to get the dirt away.
The hat is then placed in the sun to dry and in the course of two or three
hours is ready for use. It will not only be as clean as when new, but it will
retain its shape admirably. The cleaned hat will be a trifle stiff at first,
but will soon grow supple under wear. A little glycerine added to the rin-
sing water entirely prevents the stiffness and brittleness acquired by some

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

hats in drying, while a little ammonia in the washing water materially as-
sists in the scrubbing process. It is wTell to rinse a second time, adding the
glycerine in the wrater used the second time. Immenrse the hat completely
in the rinse water; then remove and press out water, using a bath towel for
the purpose and let it rest on towel when drying.

Second sponge the straw with a solution of (by weight) sodium hyposul-
phite 10 parts, glycerine 5 parts, alcohol 10 parts, water 75 parts. Then lay
hat asde in a damp place for 24 hours and then apply the following: (by
weight) citric acid 2 parts, alcohol 10 parts, water 90 parts.

Third, if the hat has been much darkened in tint by wear the fumes of
burning sulphur may be employed.

Fourth, hats so treated will require to be stiffened and blocked into shape.

KID GLOVES, HOW TO CLEAN LIKE NEW— First dip the gloves in gas-
oline, then spread out on a table or board and take a common bar of white
laundry :-;oap and dip into the gasoline and rub and scour the gloves thor-
oughly with the soap and gasoline; then when clean dip the gloves or rinse
in the gasoline and after rinsing, sprinkle with prepared chalk, then whip
or beat the gloves over a board or the hand sufficient to produce the results
desired, and allow the gasoline to evaporate from same.

DRY METHOD, OR PROCESS OF COLORING PLUMS, FEATHERS,
TIPS, ETC., — This method of coloring is particularly applicable to feathers,
etc. You will get excellent results if you will follow these directions care-
fully. First, take the article to be colored or tinted and cleanse it thorough-
ly. Lay it in a box large enough to allow plenty of room on both sides and
top and bottom. Sprinkle it with the paint pigment pure, mixed to the de-
sirable shade, seeing that the powder sifts as evenly as possible over the en-
tire surface you desire to color or tint.

Next place the cover on the box and shake the box well until the entire
article has been thoroughly covered with the pigment. Set aside for sever-
al hours and then shake well again. Now take the article out and shake well
in the open air until powder is removed.

This method is the best known manner of coloring or tinting willow
plumes that are artificially glued.

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

M$~

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

"SPECIAL INFORMATION, SUGGESTIONS AND BUSINESS POINTERS"

In selecting the set of hat-blocks purchase the set or style of blocks that
will meet the requirements of the style of hats worn generally hj the most
substantial trade in your locality. With a little geneous and thinking effort
on your part you can, with the proper selection of hat-blocks and tools, re-
block various different styles of hats.

In compiling this valuable book of instructions, etc., we have endeavored
to explain our system and point out to you the science, secrets and practice
that requires but very little cash investment in order to make money clean-
ing, blocking and remodeling hats and with hustling effort you can be suc-
cessful.

HATTER'S SUPPLIES, ETC.— For all hat supplies, etc., such as hat
blocks, inner and outer bands, and other various hat tools, supplies, etc.,
write to the following supply houses:

J. B. Mast Co., No. 22 West Fourth St., New York City, N. Y.

Roberts. Cushman & Co., Waskington Place, New York, City, N. Y.

Empire Hat Block Mfg. Co., 312-314 East New York City, N. Y.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTING BUSINESS POINTER.

In selecting the set of h?t blocks and flanges, purchase or select the set or
"tyle of hat blocks worn in your locality, and with a little genius ond think-
mk effort on your part you can, with the proper selection of a set of hat
blocks and flanges, reblock. reshape, etc., various different styles of soft,
felt, fur and Panama hats.

IMPORTANT — As an investment with but small capital in learning the
hatter's trade and establishing the enterprise, we would not advise the pur-
chasing of a special set of hat blocks and flanges for reblocking of derbys,
stiff or silk hats, as same are not presented for reblocking as readily as soft,
felt or fur Panama hats, etc. The cleaning, polishing, etc., is more in de-
mand than the reblocking, etc.. of same.

"THE PRACTICAL" HATTERS "CUSTOMARY BUSINESS SIGN."

Sign. — A large sign will be an advantage to the business, and will impress
?he general public that you are prepared to do scientific and artistic clean-
ing, Bleaching, Dyeing, Trimming, Reshaping, Reblocking of Hats, "Making
Over Old Hats New." The following will give you the idea in regard to a
sign for the enterprise:

OLD HATS MADE OVER NEW
CLEANED, BLEACHED, DYED, TRIMMED, RESHAPED, REBLOCKED.

In starting the business, if possible, have you some business cards printed
with your name, business and address on same and hand the cards out when-
over possible to prospective customers, etc.

SUCCESS — To be successful, always do your work well, make profit
charge fair prices for your service, hustle to make the word "failure" spell
"success." and give eyery man a square deal.

HOW TO APPOINT AGENTS AND ESTABLISH AGENCIES.

Business Pointer — After you have fairly started and established the trade
or enterprise in your town or city, appoint agents in other towns, localities,
etc , to represent your business. Agents can be appointed in all your sur-
rounding towns, etc., or as many as desired. Have the agent who is appoint-

THE HATTER'S GUID1

ed to secure the work in the agent's locality and express same to you, same,
on completion, to be reshipped and and collected for. Usually an agent can
be secured on 25 to 30 per cent commission. However, we advise that you
have the work to be secured in your locality before appointing agents in
other localities.

A small advertisement in your local newspaper, stating that you are pre-
pared to do all kinds of scientific and and artistic Cleaning, Bleaching, Dye-
ing, Trimming, Reshaping of Hats — Making Over Old Hats New — will be an
advantage to the business.

Talk your business whenever possible and always place or leave your busi-
ness card in noticeable places, and especially with prospective customers.

IMPORTANT NOTE — Always make profit. Charge fair prices and do
your work well. Good work is entitled to good pay, and is the best adver-
tisement to get trade.

PRICES USUALLY CHARGED.
The following are the usual prices obtained for the Cleaning, Bleaching,
Dyeing, Trimming, Reshaping, Reblocking of Hats, "Making Over Old Hats
New."

PRICES USUALLY OBTAINED FOR ONLY CLEANING.

Soft, Fur or Felt Hats 50e

Derbys or Stiff Hats 25 to 50c

Silk Hats 50c to $1.00

PRICES USUALLY OBTAINED FOR ONLY BLEACHING
AND CLEANING.

Panama Hats 50c to $1.00

Straw Hats 50c to $1.00

PRICES USUALLY OBTAINED FOR REBLOCKING OF HATS—MAKING
OVER OLD HATS NEW.

Soft, Fur or Felt Hats $1.25 to $1.50

Derbys or Stiff Hats $1.25 to $L50

Silk Hats $1.50 to $2.00

Straw Hats $1.25 to $1.50

Panama Hats $1.25 to $1.75

PRICES USUALLY OBTAINED FOR ONLY DYEING OF HATS.

Soft, Fur or Felt Hats 50c to 75c

Panama Hats or Straw Hats 75c to $1.00

NOTE — In dyeing hats the specified prices for dyeing are usually ob-
tained for the service of dyeing only and should be added to the charges for
the reblocking of hats, "making over old hats new."

In regard to prices or charges for all hat work, use your own judgment,
but always charge fair prices for your service. Never reblock a hat or make
an old hat over new for less than $1 or $1.25, for the profits of a business
enterprise are the source of all business success.

CONCLUSION.
In conclusion, the opportunity is now within your grasp to practically
learn the HATTER'S PROFITABLE RENOVATING TRADE, that imme-
diately enables you to start a dignified and independent money-making busi-

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

ness enterprise with but small capital that pays enormous cash profits.

WHAT OTHERS HAVE DONE YOU CAN DO.

The practical instructions, etc, herein the HATTER'S GUIDE OR SCIEN-
TIFIC INSTRUCTOR, for teaching the inexperienced the profitable trade,
are not theory, but the results of real hard-earned, practical experience, and
if you are willing to put forth your best efforts, throwing all your energy
into the •

CLEANING, BLEACHING, DYEING, TRIMING, RESHAPING,
REBLOCKING OF HATS, "MAKING OVER OLD HATS NEW,

there is no reason why you should not succeed in learning the practical trade
and successfully start and establish the profitable and independent money-
making business enterprise.

Dedicated special to the man who wants to learn a Profitable and In-
dependent Trade, and who is willing to make an earnest effort in an earnest
way to accomplish that result, and to the man with but little or no capital,
who wants to make money by establishing the enterprise.

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

HOW TO ADVERTISE THE HAT CLEANING, BLOCKING BUSINESS
OR SUGGESTIONS AND POINTERS ON ADVERTISING.

Let us start at the beginning for perhaps you are launching upon a new
business, one that may be entirely strange to you and of which you know
but very little, and we offer you the following suggestions and advertising
pointers.

When you have determined to start the business the next thing to decide
is where and how you can rent a store or sublet a part of a store on a busi-
ness street, preferable in connection with a tailor shop, cleaning and pressing-
parlor, then you would have the advantage of co-operation which would be
of assistance to you. But you can start the business in your residence or
any other place suitable.

The First and Principal Necessity of Any Business is Proper

Advertising of Same.

"ADVERTISING SUGGESTIONS."

First, have you a large stationary sign made for your location with the fol-
lowing words or other design :

OLD HATS "PRACTICALLY" MADE NEW

"Cleaned Blocked and Remodeled"

Second, have about 500 or more show cards printed, size about 12x14, as

follows:

OLD HATS "PRACTICALLY" MADE NEW

"Cleaned, Blocked and Remodeled"
(Your Name in Big Letters)
THE HATTER
Phone No Location . .

Now then tack the above show cards in every prominent place possible
in your territory.

Third, have about 500 business cards printed — you can have the cards

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

in any style, but the following will perhaps answer the purpose:

"OLD HATS "PRACTICALLY" MADE NEW"

Prompt Service Satisfaction Guaranteed

The Various Different Kinds

— Of—

HATS CLEANED, BLOCKED AND REMODELED

(Your Name Here) "The Hatter".

"You will appreciate our Work"
Phone No Location

The above business cards should be presented to every prospective cus-
tomer and distributed among your friends, business people generally and
placed in every residence in your city.

Fourth, have the following advertisment inserted in the went column of
your local newspaper, and let run continually:

WANTED— Old HATS to Clean, Block, and Remodel, "We Know How."
Old Hats "practically" made new.

(Your Name Here) "The Hatter."

Fifth, have about 1000 or more circulars or dodgers printed, size about
6x9, containing the following:

NOTICE.
WANTED 1000 OLD HATS
Don't pay $3.50, $7.50 or more for a new hat. Let us Clean, Block and Re-
model your Old Hat and save vou money.
"OLD HATS PRACTICALLY MADE NEW"
We do all kinds of hat work and can convince you that
we are practical Hatters.
"WE KNOW HOW"
Send us your Old Hats and we will practically make you a new hat out of it
For only 50c, $1.50 or $2.00
Send Your Old Hats to

(Your name, address, etc., here)

Now then, when you have the above circulars or dodgers printed, in
hand, distribute some to all residences and business houses in your city, then

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

place one in every buggy, wagon, automobile that visits your city from the
rural districts.

NOTE — The above suggestions are only advertising pointers worthy of
consideration and you can use same or originate advertising propositions ac-
cording to your ideas to advertise your business.

LIFE.
A MAN comes into the world without his consent and leaves without his
will. During his stay on earth his time is spent in one continuous round of
sontraries and misunderstandings. In his infancy, he is an angel; in his
manhood, he is everything from a lizard up; in his duties, he is a damn fool.
If he raises a family, he is a chump; if he raises a check, he is a thief, and
then the law raises hell with him. If he is a poor man, he is a poor manager
and has no sense. If he is rich, he is dishonest hut considered smart. If he
is in politics, he is a grafter and a crook. If he is out of politics, you can't
place him and he is an undesirable citizen. If he goes to church, he is a
hypocrite, and if he stays away from church, he is a sinner. If he donates
to foreign missions, he does it for show; if he doesn't he is stingy and a
"tight wad". When he first comes into the world every one wants to kiss
him; before he goes out they all want to kick him. If he dies young there
was a grand future before him; if he lives to a ripe old age, he is only in the
way and is living to save funeral expenses. In order to be entirely healthy,
he must eat nothing, drink nothing, smoke nothing and see that the air is
properly sterilized before breathing.

LIFE IS A FUNNY PROPOSITION AFTER ALL

But if you have any Old Hats, send them to
(Your name here)

'The Hatter'

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

WHY KID GLOVES?

Many garment cleaners and dyers look on kid glove cleaning as a nec-
essary evil, and just about tolerate this class of goods. Other cleaners con-
sider kid gloves as an unnecessary evil — and refuse them. Some cleaners
take them in cheerfully, and clean them well — and build their business
thereby.

The first two classes of cleaners are surely barking up the wrong tree —
business comes where it is invited; and stays where it is treated best.

A customer's first impression is generally lasting, and a well-cleaned
pair of gloves, combined with cheerful, obliging and painstaking attention
from behind the counter, is the trick that brings the customer back — and in
coming back the customer is quite likely to bring a job of much larger pro-
portion, at a very much larger price.

This class of work can be done quickly and satisfactorily. There is no

occasion for poor work, delayed deliveries or other drawbacks in kid glove
cleaning. It is not hard to handle or in any way objectionable. All that is
necessary is — common sense, the proper materials, and attention; and the

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

hat cleaner who specializes in kid glove cleaning, and is particular in doing
the work, and does it as it can be done, is the cleaner who gets the business
on other classes of work in which there, is more money,

"YOU CAN CLEAN KID GLOVES"

GLOVE CLEANERS.

POWDER FOR CLEANING GLOVES— No. 1— White bole or pipe clay
60.0 part, orris root (powdered) 30.0 parts, powdered grain soap 7.5 parts,
ammonium chloride 2.5 parts. Mix the above ingredients, moisten the gloves
with a damp cloth, rub on the powder, and brush off after drying,

Glove Cleaner No. 2 — (Powder) — Mix 4 lbs. of powdered pipe clay, 2
lbs. powdered white soap, 1 ounce lemon oil, and mix thoroughly together.
To use — Make powder into thin cream with water and rub on gloves while
on the hands. This is a cheaply produced compound, and does its work ef-
fectually.

SOAP AND PASTE GLOVE CLEANERS.

Glove Cleaner No. 3 — Soft Soap 1 ounce, water 4 ounces, oil of lemon %
drachm, precipitated chalk, a sufficient quantity. Dissolve the soap in the
water, add the oil and make into a stiff paste with a sufficient quantity of
chalk. Apply with a soft cloth or sponge.

Glove Cleaner No. 4 — White hard soap 1 part, talcum 1 part, water 4
parts. Shave the soap "into ribbons", dissolve in the water by the aid of
heat, and incorporate the talcum. Apply with sponge to gloves.

Glove Cleaner No. 5 — Curd soap 1 av. ounce, water Vz fluid ounce, oil of
lemon V2 fluid drachm, French chalk, a sufficient quantity. Shred the soap
and melt it in the water by heat. Add the oil of lemon and make into a stiff
paste with French chalk. Apply to gloves with sponge.

Glove Cleaner No. 6 — White Soap 15 parts, water 15 parts, solution of
chlorinated soda 16 parts, ammonia water 1 part. Cut or shave up the soap,
add the water and heat on the water bath to a smooth paste. Remove, let
cool, and add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Apply with a cloth
or sponge.

Glove Cleaner No. 7 — White soap 100 parts, water 75 parts, tincture of
quillaia 10 parts, ether, sulphuric 10 parts, ammonia water FF 5 parts, ben-
zine, deodorized 75 parts. Melt the soap, previously finely shaved, in the
water, bring to a boil and remove from the fire. Let cool down, then add
the other ingredients, incorporating them thoroughly. This should be put
up in tightly closed metallic boxes. This is also useful for clothing. Spray
with soft brush or sponge.

LIQUID GLOVE (And Cloth) CLEANER — Cleaner No. 8-— Gasoline 1

THE SELF-INSTRUCTOR

sponge or soft cloth.

PAINT, OIL AND GREASE SPOT ERADICATORS.

m Benzol 500 parts, Benzine 500 parts, white soap, shaved, 5 parts,
water warn sufficient. Dissolve the soap in warm water, using from 50 to
60 nak^^ix the benzol and benzine and add the soap solution, a little at
a time shaking up well after each addition. If the mixture is slow in emul-
sifvtas add la Tone time from 50 to 100 parts of warm water, and shake
violently Set the emulsion aside for a few days or until it separates then
decant the superfluous water, and pour the residual pasty mass, after stir-
dng it up well! into suitable' boxes. , Apply to paint, oil and grease spots
to remove same from Hats and Clothing.

(2) Mix soap spirits 100 parts, ammonia solution 10 per cent 25 parts,
acetic ether 15 parts. Apply to paint, oil and grease spots to remove same
from Hats or Clothing.

(3) Mix extract of quillaia 1 part, borax 1 part, ox gall, fresh, 6 parts,
tallow soap, 15 parts. Tritnate the quillaia and borax together incorporate
the oleaU andT finally, add the tallow soap and mix thoroughly by knead-
ing The product is a plastic mass, which may be rolled into sticks or put up
info boxes Apply to paint, oil or grease spots to remove same from Hats or
Clothing.

THE HATTER'S GUIDE

NOTICE — If you have purchaied this valuable book of trade secrets and
are working hats we will assist you with any work that you are doubtful
about doing, providing you will write us about it and enclose 10c or 25c to
pay for the expense of this service. Address all letters of this kind to
ROBERT W. M. HOLMES, San Angelo, Texas.

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