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HEALTH  TRIP 


TO 


THE  TROPICS 


BY   N.   PARKER   WILLIS. 


CHARLES      SCRIBNER, 
1854. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1853,  by 
CHARLES  SCRIBNER, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the 
Southern  District  of  New  York. 


TOBITT'S  COMBINATION- TYPE, 
181  William-st. 


PREFACE. 


THIS  volume  would  hardly  represent  truly  the 
health-trip  of  which  it  is  the  chronicle,  unless 
fragmented,  as  it  is,  with  the  interruptions  of  ill 
ness.  There  were  intervals  when  the  depression 
of  disease  overpowered  both  the  enjoyment  of 
what  was  around  and  the  faculty  to  describe  it. 
But  the  intermediate  scenes  and  sensations  were 
of  unexpected  novelty  and  pleasureableness — so 
much  so,  that,  even  without  the  stimulus  of  an 
habitual  literary  profession,  I  should  feel  called 
upon  to  record  them  for  invalid  cheering  and 
guidance.  The  trip  is,  at  least,  a  delightful 


iv.  PREFACE. 

opiate  and  recreation  within  easy  reach.  By 
what  I  enjoyed  and  described,  those  interested 
may  judge  of  what  the  other  parts  of  this  tropi 
cal  pilgrimage  might  be,  to  themselves.  I  have 
other  notes,  made  as  brokenly,  which  I  may  yet 
write  out  and  publish — but,  these  being  sufficient, 
thus  far,  to  form  a  volume,  I  give  them  out  in  the 
hope  that  here  and  there  a  sufferer  may  benefit 
by  them,  at  the  same  time  claiming  the  kind  in 
dulgence  of  the  reading  public  for  their  frag 
mented  character.  N.  P.  WILLIS. 
IDLEWILD,  on  the  Hudson,  Sept,,  1853. 


CONTENTS. 


LETTEE   No.  I. 

FAGB. 

June  and  geraniums  in  March— Intelligence  for  Invalids — Gulf-stream 
atmosphere  and  its  effect  on  a  cough — Bermuda  an  isle  of  conva 
lescence — Town  of  St.  George's,  where  Tom  Moore  was  once  cus 
tom-house  officer — Neuro  pilot— Red-coated  sentinels  keeping  guard 
amid  wild  scenery — Groups  of  officers  under  ennui — John  Bull's 
permanent  qualities— Two  women  to  one  man  in  Bermuda — Curi 
ous  streets— Gardens — Shops  and  stores  without  signs— People  idle 
and  happy — Tom  Moore's  opinion  of  Bermudian  women — Tradi 
tion  as  to  the  island's  having  been  settled  by  Lovers  of  quiet— Per 
manent  type  of  English,  etc.,  etc.  .  .  11 

LETTEE   No.  II. 

English  landlady  at  Bermuda— One  public  vehicle  on  the  island — Gov 
ernment  road  of  forty  miles — Fashion  of  economizing  here — Ar 
row-root  native  to  Bermuda— No  springs  nor  wells— no  wild  ani 
mals,  and  few  birds — English  and  negro  habits  in  contrast— Com 
pliment  to  American  liberality — Re-erhbarcation  for  St.  Thomas — 
Getting  into  warm  latitudes — First  effect  on  invalids— Luxurious 
idling  in  sailing  in  these  tropical  seas— Briefer  twilights  and  brighter 
stars— Running  on  a  reef,  etc.,  etc.  .  .  .  .18 

LETTEE  No.  III. 

Becalmed  with  a  broken  propeller — Taken  off  by  a  Norwegian  Captain 
in  his  sail-boat— Kind  treatment  on  board — Ten-mile  course  to  St. 
Thomas — Norwegian  bread  and  cheese — French  steamer  towing  up 
the  Merlin — Distant  aspect  of  the  Virgin  Islands — Transparency  of 
atmosphere  and  curious  effect  on  perspective — Hills  like  a  shelf  of 
sugar-loaves — Harbour  like  a  mountain  sea  reached  by  balloon  ships 
— Danish  guns,  not  cannibals,  to  receive  us — Cocoa-nut  grove  on  the 
wharf— Super-luxuriant  tree — Negro  loafers  like  black  Don-Ceasar- 
De-Bazans — Physiognomies  untouched  by  care — Happiness  as  a 
growth  of  the  Tropics,  etc.,  etc.  ....  26 


VI.  CONTENTS. 

LETTEE  No.  IY. 

The  proper  name  of  "St.  Thomas" — Earthquake  season  just  now — 
Heavy  portmanteau  carried  on  the  head-  The  hotel  and  its  pecu 
liarities — Windows  without  sashes  or  glass — Mulatto  child's  bath — 
Tropical  indifference  to  observation— Walk  through  the  principal 
street  during  the  town's  siesta — New  wrinkle  of  enterprise  in 
"drumming" — Signs  by  which  they  know  Americans— Negro  fu 
neral—Chairs  in  mourning— Sorrow  at  intervals — White  gowns  and 
black  shoulders— un-African  cast  of  feature— Reason  for  tendency 
towards  the  white  man's  look— Curious  tribute  of  admiration  for 
virtue,  paid  by  an  African  Prince  to  a  good  man — Burials— Effects 
of  the  climate  on  European  health,  etc.,  etc. 

LETTER   No.  V. 

Two  mornings  a  day,  and  two  dinners — Description  of  West-Indian  Ho 
tel — No  privacy  in  this  latitude — Negro  familiarity — Danish  castle, 
and  ruins  of  Bluebeard's  tower — View  from  Hotel  verandah — Dis 
tinct  types  of  beauty  at  St.  Thomas— Six  races  of  coloured  people 
— Blood  of  all  nations  concentrated  at  St.  Thomas — Grecian  no 
ses  and  Spanish  delicacy  of  feature  grafted  on  negro  stock— Nature's 
exceptions — Beauties  ignorant  of  alphabet  and  stockings — Curious 
ly  caused  pride  and  stateliness  of  demeanour — Picturesque  dress  of 
women — Lovely  shoulders  and  horrible  feet — Suggestion  to  artists 
to  come  and  arrest  types  of  beauty  that  are  passing,  and  may  die 
out  with  higher  civilization,  etc.,  etc. 


LETTEE  No.  VI. 

Lobster  cockroaches  and  gridiron  spiders — Good  climate  for  insects,  bad 
for  man — Sunrise  excursion  to  mountain-top- Taking  a  walk,  with 
a  pony  to  do  the  walking — Coffee  to  encourage  early  rising— Beauty 
of  light  on  mountain-tops  only — Louisen-hoi,  a  mountain-villa — Soil 
incapable  of  quiet  grass— Trees  of  passionate  and  spasmodic  growth 
—  Air-plant  that  gives  the  traveller  a  cup  of  water — Effect  of  strange 
and  new  vegetation  on  the  mind—  Enquiry  into  the  perpetual  youth  of 
tropical  plants — Whether  youth,  middle-age  and  old  age,  all  in  one, 
is  an  enviable  concentration  of  experience — Women  do  all  the  hard 
work  in  the  tropics — Loads  of  stone  carried  on  the  head  oy  a  pro 
cession  of  girls — No  laying  down,  out  of  doors — Insects  and  vermin 
— Vampire  lizards— Tropical  sharks  eat  negroes,  but  do  not  eat  pel 
icans — Views  from  the  two  sides  of  the  summit — Hanging  architec 
ture  of  St.  Thomas,  etc.  ... 


LETTEE  No.  VII. 

Second  earthquake  since  arrival — Drive  to  see  a  sugar  plantation — 
Mammoth  cotton-tree — Magnificent  white  beard  on  an  old  black 
man — Sucking  sugar-stick— Pay  of  black  labourers— Nakedness  in 
tropical  climates— Ebony  babies  un-diapered— Expensively  diess- 
ed  coloured  belles  with  bare  feet — Emancipated  shoulders— Odd 
way  of  carrying  a  sheep— Village  of  sugar-cane  labourers— Woman 
with  spare  toe — Old  man  happy  while  being  eaten  by  ants— Black 
girl  taking  a  siesta  in  the  dirt— Curious  plum— Natural  sherbet, 
etc.,  etc.  ... 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

LETTER  No.  VIII. 

Predominating  society  at  St.  Thomas— Invariable  type  of  German  me- 
diocrity  in  classes— Style  of  dances — Negro  use  of  the  voice- 
Drowned  baby,  and  key  for  the  tuning  of  coloured  horror— Sunday 
and  church — Whole  congregation  of  Madras  turbans— Females  do 
all  the  repenting — Effect  of  such  a  gorgeously  dressed  multitude  of 
black  worshippers — Works  in  marble  and  works  in  ebony  as  reli 
gious  ornaments — Reverie  in  Catholic  church— Indispensable  arti 
cle  of  furniture  which  every  negress  carries  with  her- -Danish  offi 
cer's  politeness— Hot  uniforms  of  soldiers  from  a  cold  climate — 
Otaheitan  flowering  tree— Arrival  of  English  steamer — Rush  of  pas- 
sengerd  to  the  Hotel  for  iced  drinks — News  of  the  death  of  Tom 
Moore — Poem  as  to  the  sins  of  genius— Promise  of  smooth  water 
ocean-sailing  along  the  Antilles,  etc.  .... 

LETTER  No.  IX. 

Tide  of  English  travel  from  Southampton,  touching  at  St.  Thomas — John 
Bull  out  of  place  in  the  tropics— Nature's  two  journeymen  at  moun 
tain-making,  and  their  different  style  of  work — Two  heavens  neces 
sary  for  the  Carib  and  the  Englishman— English  colonial  islands  all 
alkke.  as  to  houses  and  inhabitants— Dame  Nature  atmospherically 
dressed  or  undressed— Climate  too  dear  for  the  distance  that  "  lends 
enchantment  to  the  view  "—Nights  excepted  and  stars  wondrously 
bright  and  beautiful— The  Southern  Cross— The  French  Islands 
have  rivers,  the  English  islands  none — Amazing  prodigality  of  fo 
liage  at  Guadaloupe— English  ecstacies  modified  by  fear  of  humbug 
— Frenchmen  coming  on  board  at  Guadaloupe — Close  contact,  even 
in  these  climates,  never  assimilating  the  French  and  English,  etc.  . 

LETTER  No.  X. 

Alterations  in  punctuation  by  ants— Probable  etymology  of  "  Antilles  " 
— Alteration  in  plans— Preference  of  Martinique  to  Barbadoes — 
Empress  Josephine's  birth-place— Martinique  the  "Fifth  Avenue" 
of  the  Antilles— Going  ashore  with  an  unusual  lap-full — Jersey  Fer 
ry  outdone — Note  on  Negro  language— Loss  and  re-capture  of  bag 
gage—Custom-House  Vexations— Reception  at  Hotel— Uses  of  per 
severance — Apparition  of  Creole  beauty— The  good  star  of  woman's 
kindness — Negro  manners  after  four  years  of  emancipation— Inso 
lence  after  being  overpaid — Landlord  pitching  a  negro  Hercules 
down  stairs,  etc.  .  .  . 

LETTER  No.  XL 

Tropical  persuader  for  early  rising — The  business-doing  sex,  and  the 
prayer-doing  sex  going  in  opposite  directions — The  Martinique  Ri- 
alto— Picturesquencss  of  no  wharves— Resemblance  of  St.  Pierre  to 
the  structure  of  a  theatre— Air  of  careless  elegance  about  the  black 
and  white  merchants — Tropical  slovenliness  of  costume— General  air 
of  the  gentlemen — Negroes  dressed  in  two  pocket-handkerchiefs — 
Curious  accompaniment  to  the  surf-anthem  — Description  of  coasting 
boats  and  crews — Streets  of  St.  Pierre  at  seven  in  the  morning- 
Venerable  buildings— Bright  river  in  every  street— Return  to  break 
fast— Installed  in  Madame  Stephanie's  boudoir  and  bed-room— Res 
ignation  to  our  calamities — Tropical  breakfast  with  Parisian  cook 
ery—Structure  of  hotel  and  position  of  eating-room — Negro  guests 
in  the  house,  and  their  politeness— Beauty  of  our  Carib  waiter — 
Courses  of  dishes — The  unusual  addition  to  our  breakfast — Descrip 
tion  of  Madame  Stephanie  Roque,  our  Creole  landlady— Her  hus 
band,  etc.,  etc.  ...... 


Vlii.  CONTENTS. 

LETTEE  No.  XII. 

Dull  ink,  insensible  to  climate-Poetry  descriptive  of  tropical  delicious- 
nesS_Tom  Moore  a  custom-house  officer  on  the  island  which  was 
the  scene  of  il  The  Tempest  "—Difficulty  of  realizing  Ariel  and  M 
randa,  at li  Mrs.  Tucker's  Tavern  "-  Horseback  ride  in  the  suburbs 
of  St.  Pierre,  Martinique— Garden  of  plants-  Precipices  with  beards 
—Air  plants  and  their  human  counterpart— Young  ladies  on  horse 
back  with  a  negro  footman,  on  foot,  carrying  their  parasols—  De 
scription  of  Martinique  country-houses— Trepical  habits  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen— Climate  rendering  comfort  unnecessaay— Science 
of  comfort  a  result  of  Northern  lack  of  pleasure  out  of  doors- 
Question  as  to  comparative  results  of  climate — Charming  incident 
of  Creole  hospitality— Yankee  lumber-yard— Madame  Stephanie's 
kind  influence— Chateau  Perrinel— Negro  soldiers  and  their  varia 
tions  from  white  soldiers,  before  and  behind— Useful  fact  for  Gen 
eral  Morris,  etc.,  etc.  .... 


LETTEE  No.  XIII. 

Introduction  to  a  black  belle  "  who  goes  into  society  "  in  Martinique — 
Reason  why  she  has  no  surname— Nearo  passion  for  changing 
their  names— Mademoiselle  Juliette  the  friend  of  our  hostess— De 
scription  of  her  colored  beauty— The  splendid  gold  ornaments 
peculiar  to  the  Martinique  negresses.  cinq-clous-ear-rings  etc. — 
The  dark  belle's  reception  of  us— Her  manners— Her  love  of  fun, 
and  her  amusement  at  the  New- York  distinctions  of  propriety — 
Exchange  of  keepsakes  with  her,  and  adieu — Comparative  social 
position  of  blacks  and  whites  on  the  island — Distinctions  of  color 
giving  way— Both  colors  alike  invited  to  the  balls  and  festivities  of 
Fort  Royal,  the  scat  of  government— More  reluctant  amalgamation 
at  St.  Pierre,  the  large  capital — Society  checked  by  negro  hostility 
at  this — Admission  of  black  female  pupils  to  the  aristocratic  school 
of  the  convent — Curious  scandal  and  its  result— Mons.  Bissetti,  the 
colored  representative,  and  his  history — The  negro  love  of  change- 
Law  to  check  his  fickleness — His  passion  for  wives  a\f  ay  from  home 
— Interesting  extracts  on  negro  character,  etc.,  etc. 


LETTEE  No.  XIV. 

Good  feature  of  the  Catholic  religion— Hour  of  reverie  in  the  Cathedral 
— Girls  crowding  to  the  Confessional — Swallows  nestling  behind  the 
pictures  of  the  Virgin — A  negro  woman's  prayer  probably  answer 
ed—Sunday  morning  mass  in  Lent— The  fashionable  Creoles  in  Pa 
risian  toilettes — The  Negresses  in  full  dress— Affectionateness  of 
French  people  toward  matrons— Negress's  substitute  for  woolly 
head  — Madras  kerchiefs  painted  every  week— Cascade  of  turbans 
pouring  down  the  steps  of  the  cathedral— Description  of  Martinique 
female  dress— Bust  left  to  itself—  Ungraceful  manner  of  hitching  up 
the  petticoat — No  stockings  on  black  feet,  buc  patent  leather  shoes 
thought  elegant— Fortune  in  gold  ornaments— Families  and  neigh 
bours  seated  in  the  streets— No  in-door  life— Negress  and  her 
orange— The  frangipane,  a  wonderfully  beautiful  flowering  tree — 
Politeness  of  French  gentlemen  met  in  a  walk  — The  difference  of 
these  suburbs  from  ours,  and  the  various  new  sights  seen  in  the 
first  mile  or  two  out  of  St.  Pierre,  etc.,  etc. 


CONTENTS.  IX 

LETTER  No.  XV. 

Nuns  nursing  sick  soldiers— Description  of  military  hospital — Beauty  of 
beards  in  bed— Visit  to  Freemason's  Lodge — Curious  rine— Coffee- 
plant  and  Nature's  law  of  fruit-bearing — New  way  to  carry  a  child 
— Temporary  marriages  and  the  manner  of  breaking  off— Fashion 
for  gentlemen's  hair,  in  Martinique— The  shops  with  no  display  out 
of  doors — Market  for  brilliant  handkerchiefs— Female  clerks— Ne 
gro  families  in  mourning  and  their  singular  costume — Long  skirts  in 
the  street — Results  of  emancipation  on  the  few  and  on  the  many — 
Black  man  beating  a  woman— Negro  journalism— Periods  of  waking 
and  sleeping  in  warm  climate— Unhealthy  just  before  dawn — Inci 
dent  of  politeness — Sugar,  in  the  mud  on  one's  boots,  etc.,  etc.  .  136 

LETTER   No.  XVI. 

Experiences  in  approaching  Mammoth  Cave — The  tavern  at  Bear-wal 
low,  and  its  accommodations — A  carriage  in  reduced  circumstances 
— Splendours  of  a  Kentucky  wilderness — Description  of  Mammoth 
Cave  hotel — Breakfast  party  and  their  underground  experiences — 
The  lost  bridegroom  and  his  restoration — Jenny  Lind's  Guide,  Ste 
phen—Description  of  this  picturesque  Charon — His  intentions  as  a 
slave- The  uniform  provided  for  entering  the  cave— Suggestion  of 
something  more  pictorial— History  of  the  ownership  of  the  cave — 
Its  extent  and  that,  of  the  estate  above  ground—  Farms  which  it  pro 
bably  runs  under— Attempt  to  make  it  a  pulmonary  hospital— The 
two  wives  who  buried  themselves  in  the  cave  with  their  consump 
tive  husbands-  Terror  of  a  death  in  the  cave— The  lost  traveller — 
County  underground  not  represented— Scenery  for  poems,  etc.,  etc.  146 


LETTER  No.  XVII. 

Descent  into  Mammoth  Cave— Chance  companions,  and  their  correc 
tion  of  each  other's  impressions — The  guide's  basket  with  its  aids  to 
enthusiasm — Funny  look  of  party  in  mustard-coloured  costume — 
Entrance  to  the  rave — Realized  value  of  the  day  to  be  lost — First 
half  mile — Strange  atmosphere  and  dreary  loss  of  smell  of  vegeta 
tion-  First  disappointment  overcome — Gorin's  Dome — Curious  im 
mortalizing  of  a  master  by  his  slave— Wonders  of  rock  drapery — 
Embarrassment,  of  multiplied  objects  of  admiration— Strange  im 
pression  made  on  the  fancy  by  the  Mammoth  Cave— Its  architect 
ural  character— An  antediluvian  Herculaneum— Difficulties  of  the 
way— The  Styx— Lethe  and  its  boat— Place  for  adieu,  etc.,  etc.  .  158 

LETTER  No.  XVIII. 

Passage  down  the  subterranean  river  of  Oblivion— A  bride  backing  out, 
on  the  brink— Niches  for  disappointed  politicians — Wonderful 
echoes  and  vicinity  of  Purgatory— Firing  a  pistol  near  the  Infernal 
Regions— Landing  on  the  other  side  of  the  r^tyx— Ole  Bull's  per 
formance  in  the  Cave — The  crowning  of  our  companion,  the  Danish 
Professor — Fatigues  of  the  eighth  mile— Blessed  stop  to  dine— Rel 
ics  of  former  visitors — Modesty  of  Stephen  the  guide,  and  our  re 
monstrance—Claret  and  its  taste  under  ground,  etc.,  etc.  .  .  170 


X.  CONTENTS. 

LETTEE   No.  XIX. 

Splendour  of  Kentucky's  basement  story— What  an  earthquake  might 
do  for  somebody — Suggestion  of  a  Mammoth  Cave  Ball— Effect  like 
getting  a  first  view  of  a  new  planet— Process  of  disfiguring  the  Cave 
by  vulgar  visitors — "Rocky  Mountains"  and  "Dismal  Hollow," 
and  the  character  of  the  latter  place— Sfephen's  alleviatory  mus 
tache — Last  hall  of  all  at  the  extremity  of  the  Cave— Golden  Fleece 
overhanging  the  altar — Sketch  of  the  party  and  reverie  at  the  end — 
Mother  Eve,  and  our  feeling  alike  as  to  the  sun  and  moon— Suggest 
ed  inscription  from  Milton  for  the  end  of  the  cave— Hesitation  as  to 
confessing  to  the  romantic  effect  of  the  last  mile— Return,  eyeless 
fish,  etc.,  etc.  ...... 


LETTER  No.  XX. 

Nine  miles  to  daylight— Fatigue  of  walking  with  horizontal  spine— Fish 
without  eyes'— Organs  dying  with  disuse — Consumption  cured  with 
danger  to  nose— Lesson  in  taking  things  easy — Caution  tn  ladies  fond 
of  dark  rooms— Quoted  descriptions  of  church  and  temple— Oak 
pole  for  suspending  corpses— The  mummy  lady  and  her  sarcopha 
gus — Description  of  her  dress,  posture,  ornaments,  etc.— The  cus 
tom  of  stopping  to  muse  at  this  mummy  tomb— Mammoth  relics — 
Return  to  daylight—  Delight  of  once  more  breathing  air  with  the  per 
fumes  of  vegetation— Kentucky's  advantage  in  an  attraction  for  the 
intelligent  of  all  nations,  etc.,  etc.  .... 


LETTER   No.  XXI. 

New  article  to  pack  in  a  trunk — Killing  the  eyeless  fish  by  putting  him 
in  spirits— To  Mumfordsville  from  Mammoth  Cave,  by  private  ve 
hicle,  and  adventures  by  the  way— Portrait  of  a  backwoodsman — 
Western  Colloquial  attitude — Kentucky  handiness  at.  expedient — 
Mending  a  broken  wheel  with  hickory  withes— Comment  on  hack- 
woods  life— Cheerful  fire  at  the  tavern  in  a  June  evening— Habit  of 
Western  gentlemen  to  frequent  the  taverns— Curiosity  as  to  stran 
gers — Attempt  to  dodge  enquiries — Landlord,  and  his  manner  of 
conversing  and  waiting  on  table — Education  in  open  air,  and  its  re 
sults—Western  character,  and  its  formation— High  station  of  land 
lords  and  stage-drivers  at  the  West— Diatinction  between  Western 
gentlemen  and  rowdies,  etc.,  etc.  ....  20(J 


LETTER  No.  XXII. 

Cities  and  places  approaching  us  by  railroads — The  over-trumpeting 
of  some  watering  places—Agreeable  disappointment  on  arriving  at 
Harrodsburg  Sprinss— English  park  around  the  Hotel— Notes  de 
scriptive  of  the  mineral  waters— Favourite  haunt  for  wealthy  West- 
ern  families— Dr.  Graham  and  his  character — Deficiency  in  English 
language— The  Doctor's  horse  and  his  embarrassing  habits— The 
Doctor's  many  accomplishments— Hydropathic  addition  to  the  Ho 
tel—Doctor  Houghton  and  his  excellent  knowledge  and  care— Town 
of  Harrodsburg— Salt  River,  etc.,  etc.  .  .  .  .217 


CONTENTS.  XI. 

LETTER  No.  XXIII. 

An  omnibus  in  the  woods  of  Kentucky — Its  uses  as  a  stage-coach- -Four 
men  and  a  fighting-cock  as  travelling  companions — Ignominious 
treatment  of  the  warrior— His  diet  before  fighting— Gentleman  lend 
ing  his  pocket-comb  to  the  company — Dislike  of  large  land  owners — 
Indian  Oreek.  and  a  cliff's  resemblance  fto  a  lady's  foot — Naming  it 
after  the  foot  of  a  celebrated  Kentucky  belle  of  twenty  years  ago — 
Wonderful  scenery  of  Kentucky  River  comparatively  unknown — 
The  ferryman  at  Brooklyn— Shaker  village  and  a  sight  of  Elder 
Bryant — Description  of  the  features  of  their  village  and  property — 
Speculations  as  to  community  and  celibacy,  etc.  .  .  228 

LETTER  No.  XXIV. 

Remedy  for  one  great  nuisance  in  Slavery — Northern  cities  disfigured 
by  their  suburbs— Summer's  evening  "in  Kentucky— Lexington  like 
old  North-End  in  Boston — Families  passing  the  evening  on  the  door 
steps—Regrets  that  had  been  unnecessary  as  to  falling  off  in  West 
ern  beauty — Aristocratic  mould  of  republican  belles— Sudden  ter 
mination  of  principal  street  in  open  country — Look  at  a  children's 
Earty  over  a  fence— A  negro  at  my  shoulder  enjoying  the  same  sto- 
;n  pleasure— First  visit  to  Ashlnnd  by  moonlight— Mr.  Clay's  Jove- 
ableness— His  residence  classic  ground,  even  before  his  death — De 
scription  of  house  and  grounds- Crazy  wanderer  whom  I  met  in 
the  grove—Curious  monamania  of  autobiography,  etc.,  etc.  ^  236 

LETTER   No.  XXV. 

Adventures  on  cross-road  in  Kentucky— Account  of  the  "  Devil's  Pul 
pit  "—Early  start— Philosophy  of  Driving— Reasons  why  Kentuck- 
lans  cannot  yet  drive,  though  grent  horsemen— Mode  of  female  con 
veyance  when  going  out,  to  tea— Dr.  Graham's  accomplishments  but 
his  mode  of  using  the  reins— Stumps  anil  earthquakes— Singular 
locality  of  King's  Mills — The  bridge  over  Dick's  River  and  its  indif 
ferent  toll-keeper — Attention  to  trout  and  to  strainers— The  black 
smith — Majesty  of  primitive  woods  and  the  lack  of  this  charm  on 
the  Hudson — Log  school-house  in  the  wilderness,  etc.,  etc.  .  245 

LETTER  No.  XXVI. 

Cross-road  experiences  in  Kentucky— The  log  school-house—  Apparent 
uselessness  of  world  wisdom,  so  far  away  from  the  world— Pic 
turesque  interior — Older  and  younzer  girls  and  their  looks  and  atti 
tudes—Picture  of  a  lovely  child— Kden  still  around  us  if  we  knew 
its  time  and  places— The"  boys  and  their  employments— Structure 
of  a  school-house — The  Master  and  his  dijrnity — The  biggest  boy 
and  his  politeness  and  manly  civilities— Way  to  the  Devil's  Fulpit — 
A  backwoodsman  and  his  farm— Character  of  new  clearings- 
American  facilities  for  getting  on,  etc.,  etc.  .  .  .  253 

LETTER  No.  XXVII. 

HAYTL&C.        ...  ...          260 

LETTER  No.  XXVIII. 

HAYTI.  AND  THE  CORONATION  OF  ITS  EMPEROR  2flT 


Xll.  CONTENTS. 

LETTER    No.    XXIX. 

HAVANA,  &c.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .          278 

LETTER    No.    XXX. 

CONTINUATION  OF  DESCRIPTION  OF  MILITARY  MASS,  &o.    .          286 

LETTER   No.  XXXI. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  HAVANA— FLORIDA,  &c.  .          294 

LETTER   No.  XXXII. 

Tropical  May  Morning— Florida's  good  fortune  in  names  of  places— Re 
turn  of  invalid  pilffrims  with  Spring,  and  the  loveliest  returning  too 
soon-  Savannah  River  and  its  rice-fields— Pulaski  House,  onrt  the 
Republican  system  as  seen  in  our  hotel  system — Tall  stature  of 
Southerners,  etc.,  etc.  .  804 

LETTER    No.    XXXIII. 

Caution  to  invalids— Climate  of  Savannah— First  view  of  Savannah  by 
moonlight— Curious  effect  of  city  wholly  buried  in  trees— Remark- 
able  stillness  of  Savannah— Contrast  between  the  city's  habits  and 
those  of  Havana— No  poor  people's  residences— Effects  of  beau 
ties  of  nature  on  character,  etc.,  etc.  ....  Sll 

LETTER    No.    XXXIV. 

Want  of  Broadway  in  Savannah— Query  as  to  shopping  and  its  attend 
ant  u-es — The  unfurnished  apartments  of  this  world— Curious 
second-hand  machinery  on  roof  of  public  building — Seeing  twelve 
o'clock  struck— Savannah  cemetery  strangely  peculiar  and  beauti 
ful,  etc.,  etc.  ......  317 

LETTER   No.   XXXV. 

SAVANNAH,  &c.  ......          825 

LETTER   No.    XXXVI. 

Blood-horses  in  Charleston— Respectful  manners  of  negroes — Slow  pace 
of  inhabitants— Pine-plank  drive— Rail-road  across  pine-barrens — 
Prairie  of  pond-lilies— South  Carolina  marked  character— Savannah 
River  and  arrival  in  Georgia — Augusta  and  its  general  physiognomy 
— Northern  air — Curious  specimen  of  master  in  shirt-sleeves  and 
negro  carrying  his  coat — Unappropriated  magnificence— The  Geor 
gia  "cracker."  .  ....  388 

LETTER   No.   XXXVII. 

NEW  ORLEANS,  &c.    -  339 

LETTER    No.   XXXVIII. 

DRINKING  SALOONS  AT  NEW  ORLEANS,  &c.  .  .346 

LETTER    No.    XXXIX. 

NEW  ORLEANS,  Ac.       .  354 


CONTENTS.  xiii. 

LETTER    No.   XL. 

NEW  ORLEANS,  &c.      .  .         362 

LETTER   No.   XLI. 

CLASSES  AT  NEW  ORLEANS,  <fcc.  .  .  .  .370 

LETTER   No.   XLII. 

NEW  ORLEANS,  &c.       .  .  .  .  .  .380 

LETTER    No.   XLIII. 

NEW  ORLEANS  PIQUANCES    .  ...          388 

DESULTORY  NOTES    AND    INFORMATION    PICKED    UP    ON 

THE  WAY.  ......         394 


LETTER   No.  i 


JUNE     AND    GERANIUMS     IN     MARCH INTELLIGENCE    FOR    IN 
VALIDS GULF-STREAM  ATMOSPHERE    AND    ITS    EFFECT    ON 

A  COUGH BERMUDA  AN  ISLE  OF  CONVALESCENCE TOWN 

OF  ST.  GEORGE'S,  WHERE  TOM  MOORE  WAS  ONCE  CUSTOM 
HOUSE  OFFICER NEGRO  PILOT RED-COATED  SENTINELS 

KEEPING  GUARD  AMID  WILD  SCENERY GROUPS  OF  OF 
FICERS  UNDER  ENNUI JOHN  BULL'S  PERMANENT  QUALI 
TIES TWO  WOMEN  TO  ONE  MAN  IN  BERMUDA CURIOUS 

STREETS GARDENS SHOPS  AND    STORES    WITHOUT    SIGNS 

PEOPLE    IDLE     AND    HAPPY TOM    MOORE'S    OPINION    OF 

BERMUDIAN     WOMEN TRADITION     AS      TO      THE      ISLAND'S 

HAVING  BEEN  SETTLED  BY  LOVERS  OF  QUIET PERMAN 
ENT  TYPE  OF  ENGLISH,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Bermuda,  March  12,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  date,  you  see,  from  "  the  vexed  Bermoothes,"  though 
I  write  in  the  same  cabin  in  which  you  left  me  at  the 
wharf  of  Jersey  City — a  change  of  locality  it  would  be 
as  difficult  for  me  to  realise  as  for  you,  perhaps,  had  I 
not  just  now  come  off  from  shore,  laden  with  the  flow- 


L  VMl  T  klP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

ers  and  foliage  of  this  eternal  summer,  and  were  not 
the  ship-chandlery-atmosphere  of  my  state-room  over 
powered,  for  the  present,  by  the  orange  blossoms  and 
geraniums  which  I  plucked  over  the  garden-walls  in  to 
day's  rambles.  I  am  enjoying  June,  though  my  date 
says  "  March." 

Of  our  voyage  hither,  there  is  little  to  chronicle,  ex 
cept  for  the  invalids  whose  thronged  pilgrimage  this 
route  is  likely  to  become.  The  long  aisle  of  snow, 
through  which  the  pilot  led  us  to  Sandy-Hook  and  the 
ocean,  promised  coldly ;  but  the  air  of  the  open  sea  was 
mild,  and  the  quick  arrival  at  the  borders  of  the  Gulf- 
Stream  gave  us  a  temperature  to  our  mind.  It  is  sur 
prising  what  a  balm  for  lungs  is  in  the  air  of  this  warm 
channel  from  the  tropics.  After  having  coughed  for 
the  greater  part  of  every  night  for  months,  I  slept  the 
night  through,  in  the  Gulf  Stream,  as  if  stilled  by  an 
opiate.  The  sharper  breath  of  the  Atlantic,  as  we  once 
more  got  out  of  the  floating  sea-weeds  and  warm  wind, 
gave  me  back  my  cough,  but  it  manifestly  softens  with 
the  more  genial  atmosphere  of  Bermuda,  and,  for  most 
pulmonary  patients,  I  am  told,  this  climate  is  a  cure, 
without  going  to  the  more  Southern  Islands. 

The  trip  from  New- York  to  Bermuda  will  be  easily 
made  within  three  clays  by  the  new  steamer  which  Cu- 
nard  is  building  for  the  route  ;  but  our  little  propeller, 
the  Merlin,  made  four  days  of  it.  We  left  you  on  Mon- 


HEALTH  TRIP  TO  THE   TROPICS.      13 

day,  and  on  Friday  forenoon  we  ran  up  the  inlet  which 
forms  the  access  to  the  pretty  town  of  St.  George's. 
The  pilot  who  had  boarded  us  was  a  very  handsome 
negro,  and  the  air  of  natural  authority  with  which  he 
ordered  the  white  sailors  about,  divided  my  attention 
with  the  winding  shores  through  which  he  was  our  guide. 
A  saucy  looking  fort  gave  us  its  tacit  permission  to 
pass,  at  the  entrance  of  the  inlet,  and  there  was  here  and 
there  a  fortification  on  the  way  to  our  anchorage  ;  but, 
with  the  exception  of  these  military  sharp  angles,  and 
the  red-coated  sentinels,  so  needlessly  keeping  guard 
over  these  desolate  hills  with  their  shouldered  muskets, 
the  scenery  was  like  the  wilder  parts  of  Eoxbury  and 
Dorchester.  Cedars  and  low  bushes  seemed  the  only 
vegetation,  and  the  soil  did  not  look  very  promising. 
Nearer  the  town,  where  it  is  more  sheltered,  the  cactus 
made  its  gayer  appearance. 

Arrived  opposite  the  pier,  we  were  a  long  time  warp 
ing  up  to  the  landing,  and,  by  the  groups  of  officers  who 
had  lounged  down  to  have  a  look  at  the  strangers,  it 
was  evident  that  events  are  a  scarce  commodity  on  the 
island.  John  Bull  does  not  Bermuda-fy.  He  looks 
just  as  he  does  at  home.  Tinder  a  delicate  bright  sky, 
and  with  dry  walking,  he  wears  his  weather-proof  shoot 
ing  jacket  and  double-soled  shoes — the  officers  out  of 
uniform  looking  (till  you  get  a  close  look  at  their  faces) 
like  laborers  waiting  about  the  pier  for  a  job.  Setters 


14  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  spaniels  were  in  unusual  plenty.  Negro  men,  wo 
men  and  children  idled  about,  as  if  work  were  a  thing 
unheard  of. 

I  will  anticipate  a  little  by  giving  you  a  statistic  or 
two,  from  a  Bermuda  almanac  for  1852,  which  we 
bought  at  one  of  the  shops  in  our  ramble.  It  will  tell 
you,  better  than  I  can  otherwise  do,  what  population 
we  were  about  to  see.  Montgomery  Martin  states  that 
"  there  are  twice  as  many  females  as  males  in  the  Ber 
muda  Islands,"  and  yet  matrimony  seems  unpopular. 
Of  the  colored  males  in  the  Paris!*  of  St.  George,  my 
almanac  says,  90  are  married,  326  unmarried — of  the 
females,  101  are  married,  523  unmarried  ;  of  the  whites, 
117  men  are  married,  241  unmarried — 114  married  wo 
men,  265  unmarried  ;  273  dwelling-houses  accommodate 
all  these.  The  entire  population  of  the  Bermuda  group 
of  islands  is  about  11,000.  They  are  scattered  in  nine 
parishes,  and  the  seat  of  Government  is  at  Hamilton,  a 
port  on  the  west  side  of  the  main  island,  fifteen  miles 
from  where  lay  our  steamer.  A  Vice- Admiral  (Sir 
George  Seymour,  in  command  of  Her  Majesty's  Fleet 
on  this  side  the  Atlantic)  makes  Bermuda  his  station, 
and  Captain  Charles  Elliott,  pleasantly  known  to  Amer 
icans,  is  the  Governor. 

We  got  ashore  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  immediately 
started  for  a  ramble  through  the  town.  After  a  turn  or 
two,  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  we  were  walking  through  un- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  15 

roofed  catacombs,  the  stone  walls  were  so  close,  on  ei 
ther  side,  and  the  windows  of  the  houses  so  small  and 
dark.  The  stillness  of  the  town  added  to  the  effect,  as 
there  are  no  wheels  to  be  heard — a  vehicle  being  a  rare 
exotic  on  the  island.  Garden-walls,  and  the  walls  of 
houses,  were  all  built  of  the  same  stone,  the  testaceous 
base  of  the  Bermudas,  which  is  cut  with  a  saw,  like 
blocks  of  wood,  and  hardens  with  exposure  to  the  air — 
so  that  the  whole  town  of  St.  George's  looks  as  if  it 
might  easily  be  a  labyrinth  of  excavated  vaults  and  al 
leys.  Occupying  the  hollow  of  a  curve  under  a  hill  of 
soft  stone,  this  is  doubtless  true  of  parts  of  it. 

Fresh  from  New- York,  where  every  business  street 
seems  broken  out  in  a  raging  scarlatina  of  signs,  it  was 
odd  to  walk  through  streets,  and  look  in  upon  stores 
and  shops,  through  unornarnented  and  plain  doors  and 
windows.  The  Bermudians  seem  to  trust  their  goods 
to  speak  from  the  shelves  only.  Getting  away  from  this 
part  of  the  town,  we  wound  away  through  long  and  crook 
ed  alleys  between  walls  which  shut  in  gardens,  and  here 
the  negro  population  abounded.  They  appeared  to  be 
not  only  perfectly  idle  but  perfectly  happy.  Every  man 
and  woman  saluted  us  with  bow  and  smile,  and  every  one 
whom  we  looked  at  a  second  time  had  something  to  say. 
They  were  all  out  of  doors,  sitting,  lounging,  gossipping 
across  the  enclosures,  idly  looking  at  the  troops  of  chil 
dren  playing  in  the  dirt;  and,  of  labor,  there  was  little 


16  HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS. 

or  no  sign  in  the  grounds  and  court-yards.  The  garden- 
walks  were  overgrown  with  grass,  and  the  beds  of 
vegetables  with  weeds.  The  lemon  and  orange  groves 
were  in  fruit  and  flower,  but  they  looked  ragged  and 
neglected,  and  the  geraniums  and  roses,  in  full  bloom  on 
the  walls,  were  overgrown  and  untrimmed.  Life  looked 
everywhere  easy,  superfluous  and  happy.  It  was  the 
remark  of  my  companion  as  well  as  myself,  that  a  look 
of  care  and  eagerness  of  pursuit  was  suddenly  missing 
from  the  physiognomy  around  us — seen  last,  that  is  to 
say,  in  New- York  and  Jersey.  While  I  write,  by  the 
way,  one  of  my  fair  fellow-passengers  has  called  my  at 
tention  to  a  remark  that  Tom  Moore  (who,  it  will  be 
remembered,  was,  for  some  time,  in  office  here)  makes, 
as  to  the  physiognomy  of  the  island.  "  The  women  of 
Bermuda,"  he  says,  "  though  not  generally  handsome, 
have  an  affectionate  languor  in  their  look  and  manner, 
which  is  always  interesting.  What  the  French  imply  by 
their  epithet  aimante,  seems  very  much  the  character 
of  the  young  Bermudian  girls — that  pre- disposition  to 
loving,  which,  without  being  awakened  by  any  particu 
lar  object,  diffuses  itself  through  the  general  manner  in 
a  tone  of  tenderness  that  never  fails  to  fascinate.  The 
men  of  the  island  are  not  very  civilized,"  etc.  It  is  a 
query  whether  Moore  made  any  distinction  of  color  in 
this  remark,  as  all  the  white  inhabitants  are  as  English 
as  the  English  are  at  home. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  17 

On  the  upper  streets  of  the  town  we  found  cottages 
built  after  the  fashion  of  the  suburbs  of  London,  and 
met  here  and  there  a  lady  walking,  with  no  mitigation 
of  woolen  shawl  from  the  March  wear  in  England — 
June-like  as  were  the  sky  and  temperature.  I  was  pre 
pared  to  see  something  that  should  look  Bermudian,  in 
the  costume.  Tradition  says  that  the  islands  had  no 
original  population,  but  that  Madoc,  son  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales,  "  got  with  him  such  men  and  women  as  de 
sired  to  live  in  quietness,"  and  made  the  first  settlement 
here.  The  "  desire  "  seems  to  have  remained  in  tolera 
ble  force,  but  of  the  Welsh  cap  or  kirtle  there  is  no 
sign.  All  is  Woolwich-y  and  Portsmouth-y,  even  to 
the  stick  of  crooked  hawthorn  in  the  hand  of  every 
walking  gentleman.  I  write,  not  admiringly,  however, 
of  this  permanency  and  definableness.  English  officers 
are,  at  least,  all  they  look  or  assume  to  be,  and  they  are 
to  be  prized,  as  the  world  goes,  for  adhering  to  their 
type,  in  all  latitudes. 

I  cannot  get  out  of  Bermuda  in  one  letter,  I  believe, 
so  adieu  for  the  present. 


LETTER    No,  2. 


ENGLISH  LANDLADY  AT  BERMUDA ONE    PUBLIC    VEHICLE   ON 

THE     ISLAND GOVERNMENT     ROAD      OF      FORTY     MILES — • 

FASHION  OF  ECONOMIZING  HERE ARROW-ROOT  NATIVE  TO 

BERMUDA NO    SPRINGS    NOR    WELLS NO    WILD  ANIMALS, 

AND    FEW    BIRDS ENGLISH    AND    NEGRO    HABITS    IN     CON 
TRAST COMPLIMENT    TO    AMERICAN    LIBERALITY RE-EM- 

BARCATION  FOR  ST.   THOMAS GETTING    INTO    WARM    LATI 
TUDES FIRST    EFFECT    ON    INVALIDS LUXURIOUS    IDLING 

IN  SAILING  IN  THESE  TROPICAL  SEAS BRIEFER.  TWILIGHTS 

AND  BRIGHTER  STARS RUNNING  ON  A  REEF,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Bermuda,  March  13,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

"Mrs.  Tucker"  hangs  out  no  sign,  though  any  one 
who  should  by  chance  see  her  standing  at  her  own 
door,  would  know  the  house  for  an  Inn.  Her  smile  is 
habitual,  her  eyes  sharp,  her  person  amplitudinous,  and 
her  cap  of  the  half-mourning  respectability  which  land 
ladies  wear.  Her  parlor  received  us  with  the  usual 
welcome  of  furniture  for  an  English  public  house — • 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  19 

conch-shells  and  glass  cases  of  artificial  flowers  on  the 
mantel-piece,  Albums  on  the  centre-table,  and  a  chintz- 
covered  sofa.  She  had  offered  us  dinner  at  two,  and 
we  had  promised  ourselves  some  luxury  that  should  toll 
of  the  Atalantides — grapes  or  fruits  that  should  ac 
knowledge  the  seven  hundred  miles  we  had  left  behind 
us — but  it  was  England's  mutton  and  pudding,  and  nei 
ther  orange  nor  fresh  fig,  neither  pine-apple  nor  banana. 
The  town  having  but  one  public  vehicle,  the  ladies  of 
our  party  had  been  accommodated  first,  and  had  taken 
their  drive  while  we  were  taking  our  walk,  before  din- 
ner.  The  red-whiskered  carrier  of  Her  Majesty's  mails 
between  St.  George  and  Hamilton,  for  whom  such  oc 
casional  15  very -jobs  wrere  a  perquisite  of  office,  waited 
for  us  at  the  door,  and  we  were  soon  out  from  the  nar 
row  streets,  and  winding  among  the  green  hills  of  Ber 
muda.  The  road,  which  looks  as  if  a  wheel  did  not 
pass  over  it  once  in  three  months,  was  as  smooth  as  a 
floor,  and,  being  a  Government  work,  is  laid  out  and 
constructed  with  the  taste  and  completeness  of  a  park. 
There  are  forty  miles  of  it  altogether,  and  it  seems  de 
signed  only  to  develope  and  give  access  to  the  beauties 
of  view  and  scenery.  It  coquets,  in  and  out,  among  the 
hills  which  line  the  shore,  and  the  glimpses  of  this  won 
derfully  brilliant  blue  sea,  with  the  foreground  of  lavish 
vegetation,  and  the  distant  foam  upon  the  coral  reefa 
which  encircled  the  island,  are  beautiful  indeed.  Sucb 


20  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

roads  and  scenery,  with  such  perpetually  fine  weather 
for  driving,  are  an  unknown  combination  of  luxuries  to 
the  English  at  home,  and  yet  there  is  scarce  such  a 
thing  'as  a  private  pleasure-vehicle  on  the  island.  Our 
driver  explained  it  by  saying  that  "  nobody  came  to  Ber 
muda  for  anything  but  to  economize." 

Arrow-root  is  here  at  home.  Seeing  some  negroes 
at  work,  digging  in  a  field,  we  stopped  to  look  at  it — 
owing  the  compliment  of  a  call  to  the  long-tried  and  nu 
tritious  friend  of  our  children  and  invalids.  It  is  a  long 
root,  and  grows  wrong-end  upwards,  like  a  carrot,  with 
ready  prodigality.  In  this  genial  clime  thrive  also  cof 
fee,  indigo,  tobacco,  and  every  fruit  and  vegetable  of 
the  tropics,  and  we  saw  plants  and  foliage  rare  to  us  at 
every  turn — the  walls  edged  with  prickly  pear,  and,  by 
the  road-side,  geraniums  flowering  wild,  cactusses  and 
palmettos,  orange,  lemon  and  fig-trees.  The  voyage 
seemed  short  which  had  brought  us  from  bare  trees, 
cold  wind  and  snow,  to  such  summer  air  and  perennial 
vegetation. 

Bermuda  has  no  fresh  water,  except  what  comes  from 
the  clouds;  and  quite  a  feature  of  the  island  is  the 
whitewashed  slope  of  the  tank,  which  everywhere  sap- 
plies  the  house.  Perhaps  it  is  owing  to  this  want  that 
there  are  no  wild  animals,  and  very  few  birds  upon  the 
island. 

On  our  return  towards  the  town,  at  five  or  six  o'clock, 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.  21 

we  met  the  officers  and  ladies  on  their  afternoon  prome 
nade,  a  mile  or  two  from  home — their  bright,  untropical 
complexions  showing  that  they  were  well  repaid  for 
preserving  their  national  habits  of  exercise.  Their  tea- 
tables  probably  assembled  them  afterwards,  for  there 
was  no  sign  of  an  evening  promenade,  even  to  listen  to 
the  military  band.  The  merry  negroes  alone  seemed 
enough  enamoured  of  the  climate  to  stay  out  of  doors 
without  an  errand.  I  understand,  by  the  way,  that  this 
is  a  sort  of  black  man's  paradise — the  usages,  indul 
gences,  standards  of  conduct,  habits  and  easy  means  of 
subsistence,  combining,  with  the  respect  which  John 
Bull  pays  to  the  dark  skin,  to  make  life  in  Bermuda 
very  much  to  Cuffee's  mind.  Few  who  leave  it  stay 
long  away.  They  are  certainly,  as  seen  in  the  streets 
of  St.  George's,  the  most  happy,  saucy,  careless  and 
good-for-nothing  looking  population  I  ever  saw. 

We  found,  on  getting  on  board,  that  the  Admiral, 
Sir  George  Seymour,  had  paid  his  respects  to  the  name 
that  sent  out  the  Arctic  Expedition,  by  leaving  his  card 
for  Mr.  Grinnell.  Eive  of  our  passengers  had  left  us, 
two  English  Army-Captains,  a  Bermuda  lawyer  and  his 
wife,  and  one  invalid ;  and  thirteen  of  us  remained  for 
the  voyage  Southward.  We  got  under  way  the  next 
morning  at  nine,  and  with  our  black  pilot  to  see  us  safely 
through  the  reefs,  put  out  from  the  green  inlet  into  the 
Bmoothest  of  summer  seas.  Sea-sickness  pretty  well 


22     HEALTH   TRIP   TO  THE  TROPICS. 

over,  the  wind  fair,  the  air  upon  deck  delicious,  our  pro- 
pellor  ensuring  us  six  miles  in  the  hour,  and  the  breeze 
three  or  four  more,  we  are  all  content  to  see  the  Mer 
lin's  beak  pointed  steadily  for  the  Tropics,  and  care  lit 
tle  for  the  o-round-swell  of  the  ocean. 

March  15. — We  cannot  find  clothes  thin  enough 
to-day.  The  thermometer  by  the  open  port-hole  in  my 
state-room,  on  the  cool  side  of  the  ship,  ranges  from 
seventy-eight  to  eighty.  The  trade  wind  has  brought 
us  along  very  steadily,  and  we  are  now,  in  our  third  day 
from  Bermuda,  hoping  to  reach  St.  Thomas  by  mid 
night.  The  heat  of  these  tropical  seas  is  singularly  de 
bilitating.  A  sense  of  unsuppliable  gone-ness  is  com 
plained  of  by  every  one.  For  me,  it  has  somewhat  loos 
ened  my  cough,  but  brain  and  limb  seem  saturated  with 
utter  helplessness.  Food  gives  no  strength,  and  sleep 
only  seems  to  exhaust  and  weaken.  "What  health  is  to 
be  found  in  so  prostrating  a  clime,  I  shall  know,  per 
haps,  when  it  has  wrought  its  changes  upon  me — but 
for  the  present,  I  feel  sailing  towards  an  equator  of  in 
anity. 

Our  company  on  board  is  as  agreeable  a  variety  of 
people  as  often  chances  together.  We  have  two  ladies 
who  would  be  the  charm  of  any  society,  bound  on  a 
voyage  of  health;  a  couple  of  courteous  Virginians  on 
the  same  errand ;  a  Barbadoes  merchant  and  his  Creole 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS  23 

lady ;  two  or  three  young  gentlemen  of  the  ornamental 
class,  and  one  or  two  well-matured  citizens  of  the  world 
— an  every-day  breakfast  and  dinner  party,  with  which 
one  would  compromise  to  summer  or  winter.  "We  lounge 
all  day  on  our  cushions  under  the  awning,  wanting  only 
a  little  steady  grass  under  us,  and  a  little  more  ener 
getic  atmosphere  above  us,  to  make  it  pass  for  a  three- 
day  fete  champetrp.)  of  the  Boccacio  quality. 


The  sudden  twilight,  which  drops  over  the  day  in  this 
latitude  like  a  stage  curtain,  interrupted  my  letter; 
and  after  an  hour  or  two  of  gazing  with  new  eyes  upon 
the  old  constellations,  which  burn  so  much  brighter  for 
these  seas  than  for  ours,  I  went  to  bed.  A  heavy  crash, 
and  a  continued  bang  of  something  against  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel  awoke  me,  and  my  more  watchful  com 
panion  came  down  below  with  the  news  that  we  had 
run  upon  a  reef,  in  approaching  St.  Thomas,  and  our 
propeller  was  disabled.  The  passengers,  who  were 
mostly  on  deck,  were  somewhat  alarmed,  but  the  night 
was  fortunately  calm,  and  the  sails  sufficed  to  take  us  off 
from  the  shore  we  had  shaved  a  little  too  closely.  "We 
are  at  present  becalmed  some  ten  miles  from  St.  Tho 
mas,  and  have  breakfasted  on  board  very  much  against 
our  will.  A  row-boat  has  been  sent  up  to  the  town 
with  the  mails,  and  WTC  hope  for  a  breeze  to  follow  it- 


24  HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

An  old  sea-captain  happened  to  be  among  our  passen 
gers,  and  two  gentlemen  who  have  made  many  voyages, 
and  passed  their  lives  in  pursuits  of  commerce  ;  and  they 
have  volunteered  a  letter  to  Captain  Cope  exonerating 
him  from  blame  in  the  matter,  and  attributing  it  partly 
to  defective  charts,  and  partly  to  the  neglect  of  the  man 
on  the  forward  look-out.  It  is  the  agreeable  news  of  every 
ten  minutes,  at  present,  that  "  she  don't  leak,"  though, 
with  a  higher  sea  and  a  different  wind,  she  would  have 
knocked  a  hole  in  her  bottom  with  the  descent  upon  the 
reef  that  broke  only  the  propeller.  This  being  the 
great  sea  for  sharks,  we  should  probably  have  been  di 
gested,  by  this  time. 

News  of  a  sail-boat  coming  off.  Adieu  for  the  present. 


LETTER   No.    8. 


BECALMED    WITH    A    BROKEN    PROPELLER TAKEN    OFF    BY  A 

NORWEGIAN  CAPTAIN  IN  HIS  SAIL-BOAT KIND  TREATMENT 

ON  BOARD TEN-MILE  COURSE  TO  ST.  THOMAS NORWEGIAN 

BREAD    AND    CHEESE FRENCH    STEAMER    TOWING    UP  THE 

MERLIN DISTANT  ASPECT  OF  THE  VIRGIN  ISLANDS TRANS 
PARENCY  OF  ATMOSPHERE  AND  CURIOUS  EFFECT  ON  PER 
SPECTIVE HILLS  LIKE  A  SHELF  OF  SUGAR-LOAVES 

HARBOUR,  LIKE  A  MOUNTAIN  SEA  REACHED  BY  BALLOON- 
SHIPS DANISH  GUNS,  NOT  CANNIBALS,  TO  RECEIVE  US 

COCOA-NUT     GROVE     ON      THE     WHARF SUPER-LUXURIANT 

TREE— NEGRO  LOAFERS  LIKE  BLACK  DON-C^ESAR-DE-BAZANS 

PHYSIOGNOMIES  UNTOUCHED  BY    CARE HAPPINESS    AS  A 

GROWTH  OF  THE  TROPICS,  ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC. 

St.  Thomas,  March  19,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

The  sail  that  bore  down  upon  us  yesterday,  as  we  lay 
becalmed  with  our  broken  propeller,  had  a  cool-looking 
cockswain  in  the  stern — a  gentleman  in  white  grass 
jacket  and  trousers,  and  a  straw  hat,  who  was  in  odd 

contrast  with  you,  the  last  man  I  had  seen  at  the  port 
2 


26  HEALTH      TRIP      TOTHK      TROPICS. 

I  had  come  from,  buttoned  up  to  the  throat  in  your 
pilot-cloth  overcoat.  I  mentally  put  you  two,  and  the 
two  climates  together.  He  turned  out  not  to  be  a 
"  Virgin-Islander,"  however.  It  was  Captain  Peterson, 
of  the  ship  Christian,  of  Copenhagen,  who,  hearing  of 
our  disaster  by  the  boat  we  had  sent  on  shore,  had  done 
as  his  countryman  Ole  Bull  would  have  done — manned 
his  boat  to  come  off  and  bring  up  the  delayed  passen 
gers  to  St.  Thomas.  He  ran  alongside,  and  his  offer 
was  gladly  accepted.  The  baggage  was  passed  down  ; 
but  as  the  ladies  were  preparing  to  embark  a  steamer 
was  observed  coming  from  the  direction  of  the  port,  and, 
on  the  probability  that  it  was  one  which  had  just  ar 
rived  and  \vas  coming  to  tow  up  the  Merlin  before  let 
ting  off  her  steam,  they  concluded  to  remain. 

Three  of  us  took  our  seats  with  the  manly-looking 
Norwegian,  in  the  stern  of  his  jolly-boat,  and,  putting 
up  his  helm  he  ran  off  upon  a  side-wind  for  St.  Thomas. 
The  light  breeze  took  a  small  craft  along  very  buoy 
antly,  and  we  were  soon  smelling  the  shore,  and  begin 
ning  to  be  found  again  by  open-air  appetites.  An  hour 
after  leaving  the  ship's  side,  the  captain  ordered  aft  a 
capacious  basket  wrhich  one  of  his  men  had  under  charge, 
and  gave  us  a  most  acceptable  specimen  of  hospitality — 
under  the  Norwegian  flag — a  bottle  or  two  of  Sauterne, 
with  some  jugs  of  Seltzer  water;  a  loaf  of  sweet  rye 
bread,  baked  on  board  his  ship,  with  a  delicious  ol^cheese, 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  27 

and  some  excellent  butter;  and  a  glass  of  the  purest  of 
Cogniac,  for  a  chasse-tout  afterwards.  Even  Blue  Beard, 
the  pirate,  (alongwhose  caves  upon  this  his  island  we  were 
skimming  so  swiftly,)  never  relished  lunch  more.  Our 
friend  spoke  English  very  well,  and  was  the  model  of  a 
frank,  agreeable,  open-hearted  sailor ;  and  upon  that 
three-hours'  sail  my  companions  agreed  with  me  that  we 
should  always  look,  as  one  of  those  chance  pleasures 
that  overbalance  the  misfortune  they  grow  from. 

For  the  latter  part  of  our  course  the  wind  was  ahead ; 
and  while  we  tacked  in  to  the  harbor,  our  steamer  pass 
ed  us,  towed  by  a  French  steamer  of  war.  We  did  not 
arrive  quite  as  soon  as  \ve  should  have  done  by  staying 
on  board,  though  we  had  seen  the  coast  of  the  island 
to  much  more  advantage,  and  were  otherwise  well  re 
conciled  to  our  delay.  I  studied  the  look  of  the  St. 
Thomas  islands  very  constantly  on  our  approach.  Un 
clad  in  any  visible  atmosphere,  their  edges  from  a  dis> 
tance,  look  as  sharp  as  cut  pasteboard  ;  and,  as  you 
near  them,  their  bald  round  tops,  without  vegetation, 
remind  you  of  the  shaved  heads  of  a  group  of  patients 
in  a  lunatic  asylum.  It  is  strange  to  a  northern  eye, 
und  like  a  new  sight,  to  see  so  far  and  so  clear.  We 
could  count  the  leaves  of  the  cactuses  on  both  sides  of 
the  harbor,  as  we  ran  in,  and  perspective  seemed  sud 
denly  abolished,  so  equally  near  seemed  every  house 
along  miles  of  receding  shores. 


28  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

An  ant,  taking  a  walk  on  a  shelf  of  sugar-loaves,  and 
stopping  in  an  open  space  where  one  had  been  taken  out 
would  have  nearly  the  same  relative  geography  around 
him,  as  a  boat  in  the  centre  of  the  harbor  of  St.  Thomas. 
It  really  looks  as  if  you  might  stand  on  the  summit  of  any 
one  of  the  half  dozen  hills  around,  and  toss  a  number 
of  the  Home  Journal  (sealed  up  for  the  mail)  on  board 
any  ship  in  the  harbor.  The  fifty  or  sixty  sail  at  anchor 
lie  very  close,  their  many  colored  nags  of  all  nations 
giving  them  a  very  gay  appearance,  and  the  numberless 
boats,  plying  constantly  between  them,  enlivening  the 
scene  exceedingly.  Coming  from  that  most  unshaded 
and  unoccupied  spot  on  earth,  the  open  sea,  we  seemed 
suddenly  to  have  slid  into  a  mountain  market-place, 
with  a  basin  of  water  in  its  deep-down  bottom,  and 
vessels  that  must  have  come  thither  as  balloons.  It  is  a 
harbor  with  a  strangely  mountainous  physiognomy. 

The  guns  of  His  Majesty  of  Denmark's  Moorish- 
looking  castle  gave  us  a  stare  as  we  passed  before  them, 
and  the  sentries  on  the  walls,  pacing  backward  and  for 
ward,  in  the  hot  cloth  caps  arid  uniforms  of  a  northern 
clime,  gave  us  the  comfortable  assurance  that  the  Caribs 
were  driven  out  and  no  cannibal  was  expecting  to  sup 
upon  us.  A  few  rods  from  the  shore,  we  found  our 
selves  in  the  range  of  an  avenue  of  most  wonderfully 
luxuriant  foliage,  new  to  rny  eye,  which  our  steersman 
informed  us  was  a  cocoa-nut  grove ;  and  this  shades 


HEALTH     T  11  1  P     T  O     THE     TROPICS.  29 

the  two  sides  of  St.  Thomas's  principal  wharf.  Never 
eat  cocoa-nut  again  without  a  sigh  to  the  memory  of  its 
mother !  It  is  the  most  prodigally  beautiful  tree  that 
gives  its  children  milk  under  the  sun.  The  fruit  clings 
near  the  trunk  in  clusters,  and  over  it  bends,  in  an  em 
erald  so  vivid  and  brilliant  as  to  look  newly  created  that 
hour,  the  broad  and  expanded  plume-leaves — as  super 
fluous  as  a  mother's  heart  in  their  overladen  luxuriance. 
For  a  similitude  of  anything  more  beautiful  than  was 
strictly  called  for,  speak  of  the  leaf  of  the  cocoa-nut. 
I  give  it  to  you  for  your  next  song,  my  dear  Morris. 

A  dozen  boats  met  us,  twenty  yards  from  the  pier, 
manned  by  clamorous  negroes,  eagerly  begging  to  be 
engaged  to  carry  baggage  to  the  Hotel ;  and  the  end 
of  the  wharf  was  packed  with  a  close  crowd  of  them, 
all  competitors  for  the  same  job.  Their  efforts  to  es 
tablish  something  to  be  recognized  by,  were  drolly  in 
genious.  Crooks  of  the  finger  over  the  nose,  twists  of 
the  mouth,  grimaces,  appealing  looks,  and  pantomimic 
gestures  of  every  description,  were  offered  to  us  as  mne 
monics  on  which  to  hook  a  promise.  I  was  agreeably 
disappointed  in  their  physiognomies.  They  were  most 
ly  of  the  small  and  delicate  Spanish  features — like  well- 
descended  Castilians  with  black  skins — and  there  was 
nothing  African,  or  plebian  in  their  aspect  or  demeanor. 
Hat,  shirt  and  trousers  were  their  only  articles  of 
dress ;  and,  with  their  slight  forms  and  small  waists, 


30  HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPIC. 

their  white  rags,  relieved  by  the  black  skins  which 
they  enveloped,  were  far  from  inelegant.  By  the  ex 
pressions  of  their  faces,  their  hearts,  like  their  teeth, 
seemed  exempt  from  the  ordinary  human  liabilities; 
and  they  seemed,  dirty  and  in  tatters  as  they  all 
were,  to 

"  come  from  a  happy  land 
Where  care  is  unknown." 

I  set  foot  on  the  shore  with  a  feeling  that  the  climate 
might  give  something  of  this,  even  to  the  stranger.  In 
the  two  days  I  have  now  been  here,  it  has  grown  upon 
me,  and  I  fancy  that  to-be-happy-without-asking-ques- 
tions  may  be  a  plant  indigenous  to  the  island.  I  smell 
it  in  the  perfume  that  comes  out  from  these  near  hills 
at  night-fall.  You  shall  have  a  seed,  if  I  can  get  it. 

The  schooner  Mary  Emeline,  a  fast  schooner,  sails  in 
twenty  minutes  for  New  York.  Mr.  Wetmore,  her 
owner,  has  kindly  permitted  me  to  write,  up  to  the  last 
moment  of  her  stay,  with  a  promise  to  bag  my  letter 
without  fail.  The  time  is  so  nearly  up  that  I  must  say 
adieu,  adding  only  that  we  sail  probably  for  Martinique, 
Guadaloupe  and  Barbadoes,  to-morrow  or  day  after. 
My  friend,  Mr.  G.,  says  my  cough  is  backing  out 
from  this  warm  climate,  and  I  quote  him,  for  I  have 
found  other  things  more  agreeable  to  keep  the  run  of. 

Yours,  thermometer  at  eighty. 


LETTER   No,  4 


SON    JUST    NOW HEAVY    PORTMANTEAU    CARRIED    ON    THE 

HEAD THE     HOTEL     AND     ITS     PECULIARITIES WINDOWS 

WITHOUT    SASHES    OR    GLASS MULATTO    CHILD'S    BATH 

TROPICAL  INDIFFERENCE  TO  OBSERVATION-WALK  THROUGH 

THE   PRINCIPAL   STREET   DURING  THE  TOWN'S  SIESTA 

NEW    WRINKLE    OF    ENTERPRISE    IN    "  DRUMMING  " 

SIGNS  BY  WHICH  THEY  KNOW  AMERICANS NEGRO  FU 
NERAL CHAIRS  IN  MOURNING SORROW  AT  INTEVALS 

WHITE  GOWNS  AND  BLACK  SHOULDERS UN-AFRICAN  CAST 

OF  FEATURES-REASON  FOR  TENDENCY  TOWARDS  THE  WHITE 
MAN'S  LOOK — CURIOUS  TRIBUTE  OF  ADMIRATION  FOR  VIR 
TUE,  PAID  BY  AN  AFRICAN  PRINCE  TO  A  GOOD  MAN 

BURIALS EFFECTS  OF  THE  CLIMATE  ON  EUROPEAN  HEALTH, 

ETC.,  ETC. 

St.  Thomas,  West  Indies,  March  20,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  should  date  my  letter  more  properly  "  Charlotte 
Amalia  " — that  being  the  Danish  designation  of  the 
town  in  which  I  write — or  "  Tappus,"  which,  in  old 


32  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

times,  was  its  more  vulgar  designation — St.  Thomas  be 
ing  about  as  authentically  the  name  of  it,  as  "  Manhat 
tan  "  is  the  name  of  New-York.  There  seems  but  one 
reason  why  St.-Thomas  is  the  better  name.  No  spot 
on  earth  has  ever  suffered  so  frequently  from  hurricanes 
and  earthquakes,  (cf  the  latter  of  which,  this  month,  by 
the  way,  is  the  particular  season.)  To  live  here  with 
any  comfort,  one  must  be  incredulous  that  hurricane  or 
earthquake  will  ever  happen  again — and  St.  Thomas 
was  the  unbelieving  Apostle.  The  news  of  this  morn 
ing  is,  that  there  was  an  earthquake  last  night  which 
asted  42  seconds.  So,  St.  Thomas  be  it ! 

To  begin  where  rny  last  letter  left  off — with  our  land 
ing  on  the  cocoa-tree  pier.  The  negro  who  had  suc 
ceeded  in  making  me  srnile,  (and  to  whose  rights,  there 
upon,  to  my  acquaintance  and  custom  the  rest  of  the 
sable  crowd  quietly  yielded,)  had  my  large  portmanteau 
placed  on  the  top  of  his  head,  took  my  carpet-bag  in 
his  hand,  and  started  for  the  hotel.  What  with  books 
and  summer  and  winter  clothing,  the  weight  on  the 
spine  of  that  fellow  was  at  least  one  hundred  pounds ; 
yet  he  walked  easily  under  it,  while  my  chief  affliction, 
at  the  moment,  was  the  oppressiveness  of  my  winter 
hat !  I  should  have  been  flattened,  under  what  he  car 
ried,  like  the  ashes  of  a  pastille. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  cocoa-grove  stoo^l  our  Ho 
tel — an  irregular  Moorish-looking  structure,  apparently 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  33 

all  arches,  corridors  and  verandas — but  kept  by  a 
Frenchman,  and  said  to  be  the  best  public  house  in  the 
West  Indies.  "  No  room  to  be  had,"  was  our  first  sal 
utation  ;  but  they  finally  crammed  Mr.  G.  and  myself 
into  a  narrow  cell  on  the  ground  floor,  with  a  window 
upon  a  paved  court — the  court  being  the  lively  home 
of  all  the  spare  black  females  of  the  establishment,  their 
children,  their  parrots  and  their  dogs.  As  I  finished 
my  last  letter  to  you,  a  large  negress  brought  out  an 
earthen  vessel  of  water,  and  proceeded  to  strip  and 
wash  her  daughter,  (a  pretty  mulatto  child  of  ten  years 
of  age,)  in  the  open  court,  within  six  feet  of  my  ink 
stand — the  two  scolding  and  complaining  so  vociferous 
ly,  all  the  while,  that  you  will  easily  understand  any 
lack  of  harmony  in  my  grammar  or  cadences.  Glass 
windows  seem  to  be  considered  a  superfluity  in  this 
climate.  We  have  only  a  green  blind  with  immovable 
open  slats,  and  no  means  of  shutting  out  either  the 
night  air  or  the  observation  of  the  curious.  Our  fair 
fellow  passengers,  two  ladies  from  Boston,  whose  win 
dows  open  upon  the  thronged  veranda  of  the  hotel,  have 
pinned  up  shawls  and  dresses  on  the  inside  of  their 
blinds,  thus  securing  a  little  privacy  at  a  serious  expense 
of  light  and  air.  I  notice,  however,  in  the  manners, 
habits  and  faces  of  all  the  inhabitants,  an  apparently  en 
tire  unconsciousness  of  being  visible  to  the  naked 
eye,  which  I  suppose  must  be  an  opiate  effect  of  the 


34  HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

torrid  zone  on  the  sensibilities.  I  will  inquire  of  the 
Consul  how  long  it  takes  to  become  acclimated  in  this 
desirable  respect. 

"We  had  arrived  at  three  in  the  afternoon,  and  white 
skins  were  out  of  the  sun,  enjoying  their  siesta.  There 
was  a  shady  side  to  the  principal  streets,  which  stretch 
ed  away  from  the  door  of  our  hotel ;  and  as  the  ne 
groes  seemed  to  be  abroad  in  multitudes,  I  was  tempted 
to  take  a  stroll  in  preference  to  a  nap  before  dinner. 
The  street  was  narrow,  and  it  was  evident  that  a  wheel 
went  over  it  very  rarely.  The  shops  were  low,  and 
looked  like  rough  warehouses,  plastered  and  white 
washed ;  and,  by  the  signs,  I  saw  that  most  of  the 
merchants  were  Germans.  Their  shelves  of  goods,  in 
deed,  reminded  me  of  Leipsic  Fair,  for,  nowhere  else 
have  I  seen  the  same  marvellous  parade  of  cheap  trifles 
and  gaudy  toys  and  eye-traps.  Ready-made  clothes 
and  Panama  hats  seemed  the  next  most  abundant  sup 
ply.  There  was  but  one  apothecary,  apparently,  in  all 
St.  Thomas,  and  but  one  bookstore — a  small  demand 
less  wonderful  as  to  the  pills  than  the  literature.  A 
clerk  beckoned  me  in  to  one  of  the  variety  stores  as  I 
went,  and  expressed  his  modest  hope  that  he  had  some 
thing  for  my  money ;  and,  on  my  sauntering  return,  I 
was  spoken  to  by  several  of  the  shop-keepers,  with  ques 
tions  about  the  news  in  America,  followed  by  a  recom 
mendation  of  their  goods — a  *  drumming'  at  the  door, 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS.  35 

which  even  the  enterprise  of  Maiden  Lane  has  not  yet 
equalled.  I  found  afterwards,  that  they  know  all  strang 
ers,  in  lumps  of  separate  arrivals  by  the  steamers,  and 
that  they  distinguish  Americans  from  English  by  our 
sharper  eyes  and  invariable  newness  of  hat. 

A  negro  funeral  was  passing  the  door  of  the  hotel  as 
I  re-entered.  I  could  not  understand,  at  first,  why  two 
chairs,  with  backs  and  legs  draped  in  white  crape, 
should  be  carried  in  advance  by  two  women — but  they 
stopped  presently,  and  set  them  down  to  receive  the 
coffin  and  rest  the  bearers.  This  was  also,  apparently, 
a  breathing  time  for  the  sorrow  of  the  mourners.  I  no 
ticed  that  the  staid  gravity  of  sadness  with  which  the 
twenty  couples  followed  the  body  when  in  motion,  was 
instantly  laid  aside  when  it  stopped,  and  they  fell  to 
laughing  and  chatting  like  people  at  a  pic-nic.  The 
only  men  were  the  four  bearers.  The  others  were  ne- 
gresses  in  Madras  turbans  and  white  gowns — as  pictur 
esque  a  troop,  with  their  black  shoulders  and  arms 
in  such  strong  relief,  as  could  well  be  imagined.  I  look 
ed  in  vain,  in  this  procession  as  among  the  blacks  on 
the  pier,  for  the  African  features.  There  was  no  thick 
lips  nor  flat  nose.  A  slight  and  elegant  mould  of  fea 
tures  seemed  almost  universal.  It  is  true  they  were  of 
the  various  shades  of  mixed  color,  and  the  African  gives 
a  good  will  as  well  as  a  ready  consent  to  a  white  graft  up 
on  the  blood.  There  is  an  amusing  historical  record  of 


36  HEALTH     T  R  I  P   T  O     THE      TROPICS. 

this,  by  the  way,  in  the  "  History  of  St.  Thomas"  just 
published  by  our  friend  Scribner.  The  writer  speaks 
of  the  agents  sent  out  to  Guinea  by  Christian  V.  of 
Denmark,  to  purchase  slaves  for  this  island.  These 
agents  were  described  by  Abbe  Kaynal  as  men  of  atro 
cious  cruelty.  But,  says  the  writer,  "  the  good  Abbe 
mentions  one  noble  exception  to  these  agents.  Such 
was  his  character  for  probity  and  philanthropy,  that  he 
was  almost  an  object  of  worship.  People  came  three 
hundred  miles  to  see  him ;  and  an  old  prince,  living  at 
that  distance,  sent  his  favorite  daughter,  with  abundance 
of  gold  and  diamonds,  that  the  thrice  worthy  Schilde- 
ross  (or  agent)  might  give  him  a  grandson." 

The  book  from  which  I  have  quoted  is  an  in 
valuable  one  to  invalids  who  think  of  seeking  this  cli 
mate,  and  a  most  careful  and  well  written  work,  ex 
tremely  interesting  to  the  general  reader.  It  is  written 
by  a  clergyman  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church  of  this 
place.  On  the  subject  of  Burials,  and  on  the  sanit 
ary  advantages  of  the  island,  I  find  passages  which  1 
will  add  in  a  postscript  to  my  letter,  and  then  bid  you 
adieu  for  the  present. 

"  Burials  generally  take  place  within  twelve  hours  after  death, 
the  funerals  being  ordered  at  5  P-  M  Government  derives  a 
small  revenue  from  all  graves  opened.  The  Jews  and  Moravians 
have  graves  of  their  own.  The  poor  are  buried  at  the  expense  of 
tho  country  treasury.  Government  has  a  burying-ground  lying 
in  the  northeast  of  the  town,  in  a  romantic  spot,  for  its  officers 
and  soldiers ;  others  than  these  are  sometimes  buried  there  by 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  37 

special  favor.  The  keeping  of  hearses  is  a  monopoly  granted  by 
Government  to  a  single  individual ;  and  only  the  rich,  or  those 
in  good  circumstances,  can  pay  for  their  use.  This  monopoly  en 
tails  a  severe  burden  on  the  poor.  They  are  obliged  to  convey 
the  dead  by  bearers,  who  are  not  even  allowed  a  hand-bier  ;  which, 
owing  to  the  distance  of  the  grave-yards  from  the  main  body  of 
the  town,  proves  a  serious  inconvenience.  In  consequence  it  is 
difficult  with  the  poor  very  often  to  procure  a  sufficient  number 
of  bearers."  ****** 

"  Whilst  foreigners  who  have  taken  up  their  residence  in  St. 
Thomas  enjoy  a  good  degree  of  health,  as  a  general  thing,  and 
some  have  remained  perfectly  well  during  a  protracted  abode,  yet 
the  great  majority  find  an  occasional  change  to  more  northern 
latitudes  absolutely  necessary  to  restore  the  tone  and  vigor  of 
their  constitutions.  The  continued  heat  of  summer  and  winter, 
even  with  the  most  careful  and  temperate,  ultimately  debilitates 
the  system,  and  induces  disease  either  intermittent  fever,  or, 
more  especially,  bowel  complaints.  There  are  very  few  exceptions 
to  this,  and  we  believe  the  remarks  apply  to  all  the  West  India 
Islands.  Hence  European  and  American  residents  are  continu 
ally  leaving  the  island  for  a  short  sojourn  of  a  few  months,  dur 
ing  summer  or  winter,  in  their  native  countries.  They  almost 
invariably  return  with  improved  health  to  remain  a  few  years, 
ar.d  then  repeat  the  change.  If  this  change  of  climate  can  be  en 
joyed  every  three  or  four  years,  we  believe  there  is  no  place  of  re 
sidence  in  any  country  more  delightful  and  healthy  than  St.  Tho 
mas  provided  temperance  be  observed,  and  care  taken  to  avoid 
unnecessary  exposure." 


LETTER   No,  8. 


TWO  MORNINGS  A  DAY,  AND  TWO  DINNERS DESCRIPTION 

OF  WEST-INDIAN  HOTEL NO  PRIVACY  IN  THIS  LATITUDE 

NEGRO  FAMILIARITY DANISH  CASTLE   AND  RUINS  OF 

BLUEBEARD'S  TOWER — VIEW  FROM  HOTEL  VERANDAH — 

DISTINCT  TYPES  OF  BEAUTY  AT  ST.  THOMAS SIX  RACES 

OF  COLORED  PEOPLE BLOOD  OF  ALL  NATIONS  CONCEN 
TRATED  AT  ST.  THOMAS GRECIAN  NOSES  AND  SPANISH 

DELICACY  OF  FEATURE  GRAFTED  ON  NEGRO  STOCK NA- 

TURE'S  EXCEPTIONS BEAUTIES  IGNORANT  OF  ALPHABET 

AND  STOCKINGS CURIOUSLY  CAUSED  PRIDE  AND  STATELI- 

NESS  OF  DEMEANOR PICTURESQUE  DRESS  OF  WOMEN 

LOVELY  SHOULDERS  AND  HORRIBLE  FEET — SUGGESTION  TO 
ARTISTS  TO  COME  AND  ARREST  TYPES  OF  BEAUTY  THAT  ARE 
PASSING,  AND  MAY  DIE  OUT  WITH  HIGHER  CIVILIZATION, 

ETC.,  ETC. 

St.  Thomas,  West  Indies,  March  22,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

We  have  two  mornings  a  day,  in  this  climate — the 
second  one,  at  3  P.  M.  after  the  siesta,  just  now  begin 
ning.  I  resisted  these  noon  indolences,  at  first,  but 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  39 

have  given  in.  From  5  A.  M.  to  1  P.  M.  is  as  long  a 
day  as  even  a  healthy  man  can  do  justice  to,  in  an  at 
mosphere  so  steeped  in  lassitude.  The  inhabitants 
eat  two  dinners  in  the  twenty-four  hours.  Coffee  and 
bread  and  butter  are  brought  to  one's  bed  a  little  be 
fore  sunrise,  and  at  10  in  the  forenoon  there  is  precisely 
such  a  dinner  on  the  hotel  table  as  is  served  at  6  in  the 
evening — a  bottle  of  claret  to  every  man's  plate,  and 
meats,  fruits  and  coffee,  in  regular  succession.  All  the 
boarders  assemble  at  this  meal  most  punctually,  and  it 
is  quite  as  long,  conversational  and  hearty  as  dinner 
No.  2. 

I  wish  I  could  give  you  an  idea  of  the  out-of  doors-y 
and  free  and  easy  character  of  this  "  crack  hotel "  of 
the  West  Indies.  It  has  but  two  public  apartments,  a 
vast  billiard-room  and  a  vast  dining-room.  These  occu 
py  about  two-thirds  of  the  second  story ;  but  the  other 
third  is  a  marble-paved  veranda,  fronting  on  the  bay,  and 
this  last  serves  the  purposes  of  Ladies1  Drawing-room, 
Gentleman's  Parlor,  Smoking-room  and  Bar.  The  la 
dies  are  receiving  company  in  one  group,  while  sherry 
cobblers  are  being  drank  in  another ;  ices  served  here, 
coffee  there,  and  cigars  in  all  directions.  The  choice  is 
betwen  this  publicity  and  a  very  small  bed-room  ;  and 
the  preference  for  the  former  is  unanimous.  It  seems 
to  be  an  element  of  a  tropical  climate  that  nobody  can 
intrude.  Privacy  seems  as  much  forgotten  and  out  of 


40  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

its  latitude  at  St.  Thomas  as  are  muffs  and  tippets. 
"While  our  lady  fellow-passengers  were  at  breakfast  this 
morning,  two  young  gentlemen  were  promenading  to  and 
fro  in  the  dining-room,  with  their  hats  on,  smoking  and 
looking  at  the  strangers,  as  if  wholly  invisible  themselves. 
It  is  impossible  not  to  overhear  the  conversation  of  the 
different  groups  of  young  men  on  the  veranda.  "With  no 
sashes  nor  glass  to  the  windows,  there  is  no  shutting  out 
sounds ;  and  the  most  delicate  of  invalids  must  lie  on 
her  pillow,  listening  to  the  rattle  of  billiard  balls,  the 
shaking  of  ice  in  glasses,  the  laughter  and  jokes  of  the 
drinkers,  and,  loudest  of  all,  the  eternal  and  vociferous 
chatter  of  the  negroes — merry,  undeferential  and  omni 
present.  The  man  who  waits  on  me  came  in  to  my 
room  last  night,  after  I  had  been  two  or  three  hours 
abed,  and  woke  me  to  say  that  a  steamer  had  arrived. 
The  black  laundresses  talk  French  to  me,  as  I  sit  writing 
at  my  window,  opening  on  their  court  yard.  Every  ne 
gro  in  the  street  will  speak  to  you  if  you  look  at  him. 
Your  neighbors  at  table  converse  with  you.  Nobody 
is  stranger  to  anybody.  The  equator  seems  to  be  not 
only  an  astronomical,  but  a  moral  and  social,  equalizer. 
Our  hotel  is  next  door  to  the  Danish  castle  or  fort, 
which  commands  the  Bay — or  rather  there  is  only  the 
Governor's  garden  between  us — and  the  chivalric  struc 
ture,  with  its  bastions,  battlements  and  barbican,  flag 
flying,  and  sentries  pacing  between  the  towers,  forms  a 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.  41 

corner  to  our  view  from  the  veranda,  than  which  nothing 
could  be  more  picturesque.  High  on  a  hill  to  the  east 
of  it,  stand  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  called  "  Bluebeard's 
Tower,"  looking  feudal  enough  ;  and  in  front  of  us  lies 
the  bright  bay,  walled  in  with  hills  like  a  well,  and  with 
an  opening  like  a  broad  gate  to  the  sea.  With  all  these 
romantic-looking  surroundings,  and  with  the  lazy  and 
loose  climate  and  its  habits,  it  is  agreeable  to  find  such 
a  careful  and  modern  exotic  as  a  good  French  cook — 
but  such  is  our  felicity.  The  Hotel  de  Commerce  is 
kept  by  a  very  polite  and  gentlemanly  Frenchman ;  and 
his  two  dinners  a  day  are  cooked  and  spread  with  a  sci 
ence  and  variety  worthy  of  a  table  d'hote  of  Marseilles 
or  Havre.  He  seats  about  fifty  persons  at  a  meal — no 
extra  charge  for  claret,  finger-glasses  and  coffee. 

Artists  know  very  well  that  the  original  and  distinct 
types  of  human  beauty  and  expression  are  few  and  rare. 
In  all  the  engravings  of  female  heads,  in  France  and 
England,  there  are  not  a  dozen.  The  others  are  varia 
tions  of  these,  more  or  less  slight,  but  all  traceable.  In 
St.  Thomas,  during  the  four  or  five  days  that  I  have 
rambled  through  its  streets  and  markets,  I  have  sur 
prisingly  enriched  my  knowledge  of  how  Nature  can 
vary  these  priceless  gifts  of  individuality.  Faces,  cu 
riously  different  from  any  I  had  ever  before  seen,  met 
me  at  every  turn ;  and  it  was  not  till  I  had  reasoned  a 
little  upon  the  origin  and  habits  of  the  people,  and  made 


42     HEALTH   TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS. 

some  inquiries  as  to  their  races  and  combinations,  that 
I  could  at  all  understand  it. 

My  surprises,  I  should  tell  you,  were  all  among  the 
colored  population,  though  of  the  African  physiognomy, 
(as  we  know  it,)  with  flat  nose  and  thick  lips,  you  hard 
ly  see  a  specimen  at  St.  Thomas.  They  are  mostly  of 
crossed  races,  and  the  inhabitants  have  six  general  classi 
fications,  defining  more  or  less  of  white  blood : — the  Ne 
gro,  the  Sambo,  the  Mulatto,  the  Mustis,  the  Castis,  and 
the  Pustis.  The  Spanish  occupancy  of  these  islands, 
and  the  neighborhood  of  Mexico,  have  largely  distrib 
uted  Spanish  eyes  and  fine-cut  regularity  of  feature,  and 
it  is  in  these  two  particulars  that  the  dark  Thomasians 
mainly  vary  from  persons  of  color  elsewhere.  But, 
when  you  remember  what  a  nucleous  of  voyages  radi 
ating  from  all  the  nations  of  the  world  this  port  is — 
what  marked  natural  qualites  the  "  bad  boys  "  usually 
have  who  turn  out  sailors  because  too  wild  to  live  at 
home,  the  almost  entire  absence  of  virtue  among  this 
colored  population,  and  their  preference  for  the  white 
man  though  entirely  barred  from  marriage  with  him — 
you  will  easily  see  how  the  world  will  scarce  have  a 
type  of  feature  or  character  that  is  not  likely  to  be  im 
printed  in  vigorous  relief  on  this  sable  ground.  The 
variations  are  startling.  A  soft  blue  eye  with  long 
black  lashes,  such  as  I  saw  yesterday  over  a  pair  of 
tawny  lips  curved  with  the  Alhambra's  own  model  of 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS.  43 

Castilian  scorn,  looks  strangely  contradictory ;  and  the 
singular  persistence  of  Nature  in  preserving  faultless 
teeth  and  raven  hair  to  the  dark  Hebe,  whatever  other 
variation  of  feature  she  may  have,  makes  them  all  com 
paratively  beautiful.  We  think  we  must  go  to  Athens 
or  Napoli  to  see  the  straight  Grecian  nose,  with  its  thin 
nostril,  in  perfection ;  but  no  sculptor  could  better 
mould  one,  than  from  the  models  of  tan  and  orange 
which  he  could  beckon  to  him  from  every  corner  of  St. 
Thomas.  The  short  upper  lip  of  high  descent,  and  the 
delicate  small  oval  of  the  chin,  are  equally  common. 
And  these  gifts,  priceless  to  princesses,  are  here  held  in 
careless  unconsciousness  by  fruit  girls,  subject  to  none 
but  municipal  laws — the  Mustis  and  Pustis,  whose  mer 
ry  eyes  never  saw  alphabet,  and  whose  brown  ankles 
never  knew  stocking. 

Before  closing  this  chapter  on  colored  beauty,  by  the 
way,  I  must  mention  one  other  peculiarity  of  these  Vir 
gin-Islanders.  Every  female  is  trained,  from  childhood, 
to  carry  burthens  upon  the  head.  From  a  tea-cup  to  a 
water-pail,  everything  is  placed  on  the  small  cushion  at 
the  top  of  the  scull.  The  absolute  erectness  of  figure 
necessary  to  keep  the  weight  where  it  can  best  be  sup 
ported  by  the  spine,  the  nice  balance  of  gait  to  poise  it 
without  being  steadied  by  the  hands,  the  throwing  for 
ward  of  the  chest  with  the  posture  and  effort  that  are 
demanded,  the  measured  action  of  the  hips,  and  the  de 


44     HEALTH  TRIP   TO  THE  TROPICS. 

liberateness  with  which  all  turning  round  or  looking 
aside  must  be  done,  combine  to  form  an  habitual  de 
meanor  and  gait  of  peculiar  loftiness  and  stateliness. 
A  prouder-looking  procession  than  the  market-women, 
as  they  come  and  go  with  their  baskets  on  their  heads, 
across  the  square  below  our  veranda,  could  not  be  found 
in  the  world.  They  look  incapable  of  being  surprised 
into  a  quick  movement;  and  are,  without  exception, 
queenly  of  mien — though  it  come,  strangely  enough, 
from  carrying  the  burthens  of  the  slave. 

In  dress,  these  tropical  Cleopatras  have  but  one  or 
two  ideas,  but  those  are  in  character,  and  effective. 
The*  Mandras  turban  is  universal.  The  gown  is  inva 
riably  white — of  some  degree  of  cleanliness — and  worn 
with  no  illusions,  either  before  or  behind.  The  neck  is 
about  as  much  decollete  as  a  fashionable  young  lady's  at 
a  ball,  and  the  liat  back,  and  plump  dark  shoulders, 

certainly  come  out  from  the  white  drapery  with  consid- 

• 
erable  artistic  effect.     Although  the  gown  is  oftenest 

flounced  with  lace,  the  feet  are  usually  bare;  and  I 
must  record,  here,  the  most  detracting  and  almost  inva 
riable  exception  to  their  beauty — feet  large,  and  unnat 
urally  flattened  with  the  unshod  carrying  of  burthens. 
A  sight  of  their  projecting  heels,  corded  insteps,  and 
outspread  toes,  is  a  sad  damper  to  the  stranger's  admi 
ration. 

I  will  close  my  letter  with  suggesting,  to  some  artist 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO      THE      TROPICS  45 

who  is  a  philosopher  of  physiognomy,  the  value  of  a 
visit  to  these  latitudes,  and  the  collecting  of  such  types 
of  feature  and  beauty  as  will  necessarily  be  transient 
with  the  advance  of  civilization  and  morality,  but  which 
now  might  be  collected  in  a  portfolio  of  unequalled 
novelty  and  interest.  This  is  the  woiid's  laboratory  for 
experiments  in  the  chemistry  of  blood,  and  the  results 
are  worth  recording.  Name  it  to  Daiiey  and  Eossitur. 
Yours,  under  a  very  hot  sun. 


LETTER   No.  6. 


LOBSTER    COCKROACHES  AND    GRIDIRON  SPIDERS GOOD    CLI 
MATE  FOR  INSECTS,  BAD  FOR  MAN SUNRISE  EXCURSION  TO 

MOUNTAIN-TOP TAKING  A  WALK,  WITH  A  PONY  TO  DO  THE 

WALKING COFFEE  TO  ENCOURAGE  EARLY  RISING BEAU 
TY    OF    LIGHT    ON    MOUNTAIN-TOPS    ONLY LOUISEN-HOI,    A 

MOUNTAIN-VILLA SOIL      INCAPABLE      OF     QUIET     GRASS 

TREES      OF     PASSIONATE     AND     SPASMODIC     GROWTH AIR- 
PLANT    THAT    GIVES    THE    TRAVELLER    A  CUP  OF  WATER 

EFFECT  OF  STRANGE  AND  NEW  VEGETATION,  ON  THE    MIND 

ENQUIRY  INTO  PERPETUAL  YOUTH  OF    TROPICAL    PLANTS 

WHETHER  YOUTH,  MIDDLE- AGE  AND  OLD  AGE,  ALL  IN  ONE, 

IS  AN  ENVIABLE  CONCENTRATION  OF  EXPERIENCE WOMEN 

DO  ALL  THE  HARD  WORK  IN  THE  TROPICS LOADS  OF  STONE 

CARRIED    ON    THE    HEAD,    BY  A  PROCESSION  OF  GIRLS NO 

LYING     DOWN,    OUT    OF     DOORS INSECTS    AND    VERMIN 

VAMPIRE  LIZARD TROPICAL    SHARKS  EAT  NEGROES  BUT  DO 

NOT  EAT  PELICANS VIEWS  FROM  THE  TWO    SIDES  OF  THE 

8UMMIT HANGING    ARCHITECTURE    OF  ST.  THOMAS,  ETC. 

St.  Thomas,  West  Indies,  March,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

The  English  steamer,  from   which    our  Barbadoes 
packet  waits  to  take  the  mail,  is  now  three  days  behind 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  47 

her  time ;  and  till  she  arrive,  we  are  making  the  most 
of  latitude  17  30.  Seeing  the  other  tenants  of  our  bed 
rooms — cockroaches  that  have  pretensions  to  be  lob 
sters,  and  spiders  on  which  you  might  lay  a  beefsteak, 
mistaking  it  for  a  gridiron — you  would  perhaps  fancy 
we  might  feel  the  effect  of  so  thrifty  a  clime,  and  grow, 
as  do  the  insects,  with  nothing  better  to  do.  But  I 
think,  on  the  contrary,  that  I  grow  perceptibly  thin. 
These  nights,  like  twelve-hour  vapour-baths,  and  days 
when  the  putting  of  two  thoughts  together  amounts  to 
a  perspirattve,  are  not  stuff  upon  which  I  feel  a  tendency 
either  to  fatten  or  strengthen.  They  tell  me  it  is  so 
with  all  whites  from  the  temperate  latitudes.  We  wane, 
as  the  negroes  wax  under  a  tropical  sun — and,  if  one  is 
better  for  coming  here,  it  must  be  as  he  is  better  for  a 
depletive,  with  little  of  it.  And,  perhaps,  an  ordinary 
prescription  is  aided  by  following  also  the  poet's  genial 
advice : — 

«« In  tropic  climes,  lire  like  the  tropic  bird  ; 

And,  if  a  spice-fraught  grove  invite  thy  stay, 
•Be  not  by  cares  of  colder  climes  deterred,"  etc. 

With  our  kind  Consul  for  a  guide,  Mr.  Gr.  and  I 
made  a  sunrise  excursion,  yesterday  morning,  to  the 
summit  mountain  ridge  which  gives  a  view  of  both 
slopes  of  the  island.  My  companions  went  on  foot;  but, 
with  an  invalid's  privilege,  I  was  allowed  to  take  the 
walk  with  a  horse  under  me,  (promenade  a  cheval) — a 


48  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

difference,  which,  I  find,  very  much  assists  the  admira 
tion  of  scenery.  Coffee,  brought  to  the  bedside,  to  open 
our  eyes  with — we  contrived  to  be  getting  up  hill  a 
little  earlier  than  the  sun ;  and  nothing  could  well  add 
more  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape,  than  to  see  the 
hill-tops  first  touched  with  gold,  and  the  harbor  below 
Btill  lying  in  expectant  shadow. 

A  romantic  Dane  built  the  charming  villa  of  Louisen- 
hoi,  on  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  and  named  it  after  his 
wife ;  and  the  winding  road  which  reaches  it  is  mainly 
of  his  making — a  sort  of  staircase,  up  the  side  of  the 
precipitous  hill,  which  nothing  but  the  pony  of  the  coun 
try  could  safely  travel  with  a  rider.  I  was  surprised, 
on  the  way,  to  see  that  this  volcanic  soil,  though  rich  in 
coarse  weeds  and  shrubs,  produces  no  grass.  The 
ground  is  bare  around  the  stems  of  the  wild  oleanders 
and  cactuses.  The  trees  have  the  peculiarity  of  ap 
pearing  to  seek  nourishment  rather  from  the  air  than 
the  earth,  as  their  roots  are  generally  quite  out  of  the 
ground  ;  and,  on  most  of  them,  there  are  parasite  plants, 
which  are  fed  by  the  atmosphere,  and  seem  to  require 
only  a  standing-place  where  they  can  inhale  the  breeze. 
Our  friend  showed  us  one  of  these,  which  is  called  the 
air-plant,  and  which  catches  and  retains  water  in  the 
cup  of  its  flower,  giving  to  thirsty  man  a  drink,  valua 
ble  enough  on  an  island  where  stream  or  spring  is  a 
rarity  almost  unknown. 


HEALTH      T  RIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.  49 

It  curiously  enlarges  one's  world  to  be  surrounded 
with  an  entirely  new  multitude  of  trees  and  flowers. 
We  stopped  at  every  turn  of  the  road  to  pluck  some 
new  leaf,  and  admire  some  new  beauty,  or  some  new 
fragrance.  Everything  grows  differently  from  the  ve 
getation  in  our  climate.  The  branches  oftenest  seem  to 
have  put  forth  with  passionate  irregularity,  and  are 
wholly  without  the  orderly  symmetry  which  Nature 
maintains  at  the  North. 

I  have  taken  some  pains,  by  the  way,  to  enquire 
into  the  perpetual  youth  of  the  foliage  of  the  tropics. 
Coming  from  bare  trees  and  frozen  grounds  so  recently 
as  we  did,  it  hardly  seemed  natural  to  find  everything 
as  blooming  and  verdant  as  in  spring  or  midsummer. 
I  find  it  is  not  unusual.  There  are  trees  which  seem  to 
rest  for  a  month — dropping  most  of  their  leaves  and 
putting  forth  no  blossoms  in  that  time.  There  are 
others  which  the  hurricane  season  finds  weak,  and  strips 
suddenly,  by  its  first  tornado,  though  they  were  appa 
rently  as  green  as  ever.  There  are  several,  however, 
whose  youth,  freshness  and  beauty  know  no  repose  and 
no  winter — the  cocoa-tree,  the  citron,  the  orange,  the 
banana — beautiful  creatures,  every  one,  which  bud, 
flower  and  bear  fruit,  all  in  one  prodigal  confusion  of 
experience.  Are  they  to  be  envied  by  us,  with  our  de 
tailed  progression  of  existence,  or  not  ? 

The  women  do  all  the  monotonous  and  hard  labor  in 


50  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS 

this  climate.  The  negroes  are  even  the  chambermaids, 
as  well  as  the  boatmen,  drivers  and  tide-waiters ;  but 
the  negresses  bear  the  heavy  burthens  out  of  doors. 
They  unlade  coal- vessels  by  a  troop  of  women,  who 
carry  baskets,  of  the  incredible  weight  of  two  hundred 
pounds,  upon  their  heads,  the  men  only  lifting  their  bas 
kets  for  them,  and  working  the  windlass  which  hoists 
the  lading  from  the  hold.  As  we  approached  Louisen- 
hoi,  the  road  was  undergoing  some  repairs,  and  the 
stone,  which  was  taken  loose  from  the  soil,  was  to  be 
used  in  a  wall  some  fifty  feet  above.  Two  men  were 
overseeing  the  job — one,  who  seemed  to  be  the  path- 
master,  and  stood  looking  on ;  and  another,  who  direct 
ed  the  loading  of  the  heads  of  seven  negresses,  with 
fragments  of  rock,  and  then  walked  before  them  in  slow 
procession  to  the  place  of  deposit.  The  poor  barefooted 
girls,  straight  as  arrows,  and  as  deliberate  as  priestesses 
in  their  gait,  were  submissively  patient  and  grave ;  and 
I  thought,  as  I  looked  at  them  from  a  little  distance, 
that  you  would  have  to  explain,  to  a  new  visitant  to 
this  planet,  that  they  were  not  nobler,  in  their  employ 
ment  and  demeanor,  than  the  merchants  walking  hur 
riedly  and  ungracefully  about  the  market-place  below. 

No  man  lies  down  under  a  tree,  in  this  climate.  The 
ants,  lizards,  toads  and  snakes,  are  in  previous  posses 
sion.  On  almost  every  tree,  one  sees  an  ant  house,  as 
large  as  a  half-bushel  basket ;  and  the  lizards,  accus- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.  51 

tomed  to  be  well-treated  by  man,  coolly  and  deliberately 
walk  off  from  any  branch  you  may  direct  your  band  to, 
but  show  no  haste  or  apprehension  of  violence.  The 
Consul  told  us  there  was  a  kind  of  lizard,  however,  of 
which  the  natives  are  very  much  afraid.  Its  first  im 
pulse,  when  surprised,  is  to  spring  to  the  human  hand, 
and  fasten  its  teeth  and  claws  into  the  flesh  ;  and,  in  pro 
portion  as  this  vampire  is  resisted  or  terrified,  it  deepens 
its  hold,  never  loosing  its  clutch  till  it  is  cut  in  pieces. 
Of  this  awkward  customer  we  fortunately  saw  no 
specimen. 

We  found  the  lady  of  Louisen-hoi  rumbling  about 
the  grounds  with  her  children,  and,  when  the  Consul 
presented  us,  she  led  us  to  the  verandahs  of  the  villa, 
from  which  we  could  see  the  ocean  on  both  sides  of  the 
island.  A  most  lovely  bay  makes  in  under  the  height, 
and  here  swam  troops  of  pelicans — though,  why  the 
sharks,  which  deter  the  negroes  from  swimming  in  these 
waters,  do  not  gobble  up  these  nice  looking  birds,  as  well, 
I  could  not  definitely  ascertain.  For  me,  the  pelican 
would  be  the  better  eating  of  the  two. 

I  did  not  enjoy  the  two  views  of  the  ocean  the  less, 
because  I  cannot  describe  them  to  you.  Life  has  plea 
sures,  and  the  world  has  beauties,  which  cannot  be  put 
on  paper.  I  may  mention,  however,  that  there  was 
great  contrast  between  the  two  views,  from  the  differ 
ence  in  the  foregrounds — on  one  side,  the  wilderness  of 


52  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

a  volcanic  island,  and,  on  the  other,  a  crowded  town 
with  its  ruined  castles,  its  sentinelled  strong-hold,  and 
busy  harbor,  thronged  with  row-boats  and  shipping. 
Most  of  the  features  of  this  latter  picture  were  entirely 
new.  The  houses  of  the  town — hung  against  the  pre 
cipices  like  bird-cages  against  a  wall,  and  with  their  yel 
low  walls  and  red  roofs — looked  like  the  innovations  of 
yesterday,  in  strange  contrast  with  the  crumbling  forti 
fications  of  old  time.  There  is  a  look  of  renaissance 
about  St.  Thomas — the  castles  old  enough  for  the  time 
of  Columbus,  and  the  dwellings  new  enough  for  Staten 
Island  or  Newport.  To  give  you  an  idea  what  singu 
larly  hanging  architecture  is  the  fashion  here,  I  may 
mention  one  new  house  we  noticed,  where  the  earthy 
bank  of  precipice  toivered  twenty  feet  above  the  chim 
neys, 'while  a  wall  sustained  the  basement,  twenty  feet 
below  the  foundations.  And  to  this — a  three-story 
house — there  is  no  access,  except  by  climbing  thither  on 
foot,  or,  in  case  of  illness,  being  borne  up  or  down  on  a 
hand-barrow.  With  the  exception  of  one  street  along 
the  water,  and  one  or  two  in  the  bottoms  of  the  glens, 
all  St.  Thomas  is  thus  hung  on  precipices. 

In  riding  down,  my  stirrups,  of  course,  were  clatter 
ing  against  the  sides  of  my  pony's  bit,  and  1  was  a  most 
lengthwise  demonstration,  as  to  his  body,  with  the  ef 
fort  to  sit  upright;  but,  taking  it  for  granted  that  ho 
knew  the  country  and  its  accidents  better  than  I,  I  threw 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  53 

away  my  whip  of  twisted  cocoa-leaf  and  gave  him  the 
reins ;  and  he  dropped  himself  safely  at  my  hotel  door, 
and  restored  me,  undamaged,  to  level  footing.  People 
are  usually  very  much  tired  with  this  walk  ;  and  possi 
bly,  my  pony  was  tired  with  his— but  I  was  unfatigued, 
and  I  recommend,  to  all  invalids  ^  *east,  no  ascent  of 
mountain,  in  this  debilitating  clime,  without  a  quadru 
ped  under  the  spine. 

My  letter  is  getting  long.     Adieu. 


LETTER    No.    7. 


SECOND    EARTHQUAKE    SINCE    ARRIVAL DRIVE    TO  SEE  A  SU 
GAR  PLANTATION MAMMOTH  COTTON-TREE MAGNIFICENT 

WHITE  BEARD  ON  AN  OLD  BLACK  MAN SUCKING  SUGAR- 
STICK PAY  OF  BLACK  LABORERS NAKEDNESS  IN  TROPI 
CAL  CLIMATES EBONY  BABIES  UN-DIAPERED — EXPENSIVELY 

DRESSED  COLORED  BELLES  WITH  BARE  FEET EMANCI 
PATED  SHOULDERS ODD  WAY  OF  CARRYING  A  SHEEP 

VILLAGE  OF  SUGAR-CANE  LABORERS WOMAN  WITH  SPARE 

TOE OLD    MAN    HAPPY  WHILE    BEING    EATEN    BY    ANTS 

BLACK  GIRL  TAKING  A  SIESTA  IN  THE  DIRT CURIOUS  PLUM 

NATURAL  SHERBET,  ETC.,  ETC. 


St.  Thomas,  West  Indies,  March,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  write  on  "  terra  firma^  I  believe,  though  we  had 
an  earthquake  last  night — the  second  since  our  arrival 
on  this  volcanic  island.  "What  little  rocking  the  town 
gets,  with  these  throes  of  nature,  does  not  wake  me,  I 
find,  though  the  inhabitants  have  a  quick  perception  of 
one,  and,  with  great  precision,  give  you  the  exact  num- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  55 

ber  of  seconds  that  it  lasted,  as  the  news  of  the  morning. 
Strangers  have  usually  a  dread  of  these  phenomena ; 
but  I  have  no  presentiment  of  the  earth's  opening  for 
me,  except  by  spade  and  pickaxe. 

We  drove  out,  a  mile  or  two  along  the  coast,  to  see  a 
sugar  plantation,  this  morning— our  vehicle  an  Ameri 
can  carry-all,  which  is  the  wonder  of  this  precipitous 
island,  and  our  driver  a  talkative  mulatto,  who  proudly 
mentions  his  indebtedness  to  one  of  the  most  distin 
guished  lawyers  of  Philadelphia,  for  what  white  blood 
is  in  him.  On  our  way,  we  stopped  to  see  a  cotton- 
tree,  which  is  considered  the  largest  subject  of  His  Ma 
jesty  of  Denmark ;  and  which  perhaps  would  shade 
comfortably  a  Jenny-Lind  audience  of  Tripler  Hall. 
My  friend  took  its  measure,  and  found  the  circumfer 
ence  of  the  trunk,  at  ground  level,  forty  feet.  The  cot 
ton  pods,  just  open,  seemed  making  a  million  offers,  each 
one  of  just  enough  cotton  for  an  ear-ache.  It  was,  al 
together,  a  superfluous  extravagant  tree,  with  a  great 
many  unnecessary  branches — a  vegetable  spendthrift, 
in  fact,  upon  which,  with  my  experience,  1  could  not 
look  but  with  a  feeling  of  compassion.  I  took  a  speci 
men  of  what  he  produces,  however,  and  am  only  sorry 
it  will  not  shape,  like  my  superfluities,  into  an  article  for 
the  Home  Journal. 

Allow  me  to  note  one  thing  wThich  I  saw  on  the  road, 
and  which  will  be  appreciable,  perhaps,  only  by  artists 


56  HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

— -the  blackest  of  negroes  with  the  whitest  of  beards. 
This  tableau-vivant  was  a  pauper,  of  about  ninety,  ap 
parently,  entirely  black-bald,  and  with  nothing  on  him 
except  certain  remainders  of  a  pair  of  trousers,  and  a 
part  of  a  shirt,  his  tawny  chest  entirely  bare,  and  his 
snowy  beard  descending  over  it  in  waves — the  effect, 
snowy  mustache  and  all,  worthy  of  the  highest  high- 
priest  of  an  Egyptian  temple.  He  was  one  of  a  crowd, 
coming  from  the  morning  mass  of  a  Catholic  chapel, 
and  everybody  jostled  and  passed  him  disregard  fully — 
a  popular  unconsciousness  of  his  extraordinary  beauty, 
which  really  seemed  brutal  and  unnatural.  His  face 
was  that  of  a  man  who  had  dignified  on  animal  experi 
ence  only — (no  reason  why  not,  perhaps  !) — and  if  he 
could  have  been  framed,  and  hung  up,  in  a  drawing- 
room,  I  would  have  given  $5000  for  him,  to  re-sell  to 
somebody  who  could  afford  to  own  him  as  a  picture. 
Black  old  age  is  more  picturesque  than  ours. 

We  passed  through  fields  of  sugar-cane — the  plant 
resembling  very  much  our  Indian  corn  in  full  growth — 
and.  alighted  at  a  mill,  not  just  then  in  operation.  Its 
principle  is  a  general  one  not  confined  to  St.  Thomas, — 
the  sweetness  got  out  by  squeezing.  Our  semi-Phila- 
delphian  driver  cut  a  sugar-stick  for  us,  and  sharpened 
the  end  for  us  to  suck.  With  nothing  better,  I  could 
fancy  it  very  palatable.  There  are  no  fences  at  the  fields 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS.  57 

and  anybody  may  cut  stick  and  suck— so  that  starva 
tion  in  this  country  is  purely  a  matter  of  choice. 

While  my  friend  was  inquiring  into  the  statistics  of 
sugar,  I  took  a  ramble  through  the  village  of  huts  which 
the  plantation  sustains.  The  negroes  seemed  to  have 
as  few  wants,  and  to  be  about  as  unconsciously  com 
fortable,  as  snails  and  caterpillars.  Each  family  had 
two  huts,  built  of  sticks  and  thatched  with  straw — one 
for  cooking  and  one  for  sleeping.  I  stopped  at  the  door 
of  one  where  the  old  woman  looked  communicative. 
She  began  by  showing  me,  with  some  apparent  pride, 
an  extra  toe  which  pointed  like  a  raised  finger  from 
the  centre  of  one  of  her  feet,  and  ended  by  complaining 
that  they  had  no  bread.  Her  family,  then  present,  con 
sisted  of  seven  persons,  who  slept  altogether  in  about 
the  space  of  a  hotel's  double  bed — two  grandfathers 
among  them,  and  one  very  pretty  girl  of  about  seven 
teen.  I  have  mentioned  that  there  is  no  grass  in  this 
climate.  The  girl  I  speak  of,  lay  flat  on  her  back,  on 
the  earth  at  the  side  of  the  cottage,  with  her  well-turned 
ebony  arm  over  her  head  and  only  a  ragged  petticoat 
over  her  limbs,  as  entirely  unmoved  by  a  stranger's 
presence  and  observation  as  if  she  had  been  a  statue 
of  black  marble.  The  immovableness  of  one  of  the 
Grandfathers  was  still  more  remarkable,  however.  He 

O  ' 

sat  on  a  rough  wooden  bench,  with  a  pleasant  and  ha 
bitual  smile  on  his  face — a  decrepit  old  man — and,  of 


58  HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS. 

his  two  feet,  which  were  half  buried  in  the  loose  dirt, 
one  was  literally  rotten.  His  toes  were  covered  with 
sores,  and  the  ants  were  upon  them  in  hundreds — yet 
he  leaned  with  his  elbows  on  his  knees,  giving  me  a 
slow  and  tranquil  look  as  I  stopped  before  him,  and 
seemed  no  more  unhappy  than  a  cheese  with  its  mag 
gots.  Do  we  not  give  ourselves  unnecessary  trouble, 
with  our  diseases,  after  all  ? 

I  learned,  afterwards,  that  these  pauper  laborers  got 
half  a  dollar  a  week,  for  wages,  and  huts  to  live  in ; 
and  have  two  holidays  in  the  week,  Saturday  and  Sun 
day.  The  old  and  disabled  are  supported  by  the  young 
and  strong. 

Nakedness,  I  find,  is,  to  a  certain  degree,  a  matter  of 
climate.  Modesty  makes  no  note  of  anything  under  six 
years  of  age.  Black  babies  go  conveniently  bare,  to 
the  end  of  life's  first  chapter.  With  the  same  fitness 
and  adaptation  to  the  latitude,  shoes  and  stockings  are 
dispensed  with  ;  and  the  young  black  girls,  with  ear 
rings  worth  two  or  three  hundred  dollars,  chemises 
edged  with  lace,  and  skirts  of  brilliant  colors,  parade  in 
stately  deliberateness,  protruding,  at  each  step,  five 
shining  toe-nails  uncompressed  by  morocco.  I  must 
own  that  I  think  they  walk  more  gracefully  for  this. 
White  feet  might  not  do  so  well,  not  being  so  independ 
ent  of  the  dirt — but  feet  that  are  neatly  blacked  by  na 
ture  are  certainly  as  cleanly  without  "  leather  or  pru- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  69 

nella,"  and  vastly  more  elastic  and  stately.  Two  ebony 
shoulders,  un-liable  to  tan,  enjoy  the  open  air  by  the 
same  philosophy ;  and  they  shine  along  the  street,  as 
these  black  swans  sail  past,  with  a  luxuriance  of  effect 
unknown  on  the  sidewalks  of  temperate  latitudes. 

We  met  a  negro  walking  whistling  along  the  road, 
with  a  sheep  tied  round  his  neck  like  a  kicking  cravat, 
the  feet  in  a  bow-knot  in  front — the  struggles  of  the  ani 
mal  not  disturbing  his  tranquility  at  alk  Half  a  dozen 
others  we  saw,  with  their  long  knives,  on  their  way  to 
cut  the  sugar-cane,  and  all  looking  considerably  hap 
pier  than  any  white  people  I  ever  saw  on  their  way  to 
a  place  of  amusement.  I  am  inclined  to  think,  heathen 
as  they  are,  that  these  black  and  happy  ignoramuses 
would  only  be  educated  into  a  consciousness  of  things 
to  be  troubled  about. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  prodigality  of  this  climate,  in  the 
fact  that 

"  Bud,  flower  and  fruit  together  rise, 

And  the  whole  year  in  gay  confusion  lies." 

but  it  is  a  climate  capable  of  simplifying  matters  as 
well.  There  is  a  plum,  native  to  this  island,  which  dis 
penses  with  the  school  and  college  of  leaf  and  flower, 
and  ripens  immediately  from  the  bark  of  its  tree — ma. 
turity  its  first  stage  and  its  last.  There  is  also  a  fruit 
that  would  be  interesting  to  Thompson — the  anana,  of 


60  HEALTH     T  R  I  T     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

sour-sop,  which  has  a  deliciously  flavored  pulp,  as  pluck 
ed  from  the  tree,  arid  requires  only  icing,  to  surpass  the 
choicest  of  sherbets  in  flavor  and  richness.  A  slight 
squeeze,  as  you  hold  this  fruit  to  your  lips,  gives  you  its 
sweetness  with  a  delicacy  beyond  the  spoon  of  the  con 
fectioner. 

I  fancy  I  have  told  you  of  new  things  enough  for  one 
letter,  so 

Atiieu  for  the  present. 


LETTER    No,  8. 


PREDOMINATING    SOCIETY  AT    ST.  THOMAS — INVARIABLE  TYPE 

OF  GERMAN  MEDIOCRITY  IN  CLASSES STYLE  OF  DANES — . 

NEGRO  USE  OF  THE  VOICE DROWNED  BABY,  AND  KEY  FOR 

THE  TUNING  OF  COLORED  HORROR SUNDAY  AND  CHURCH 

WHOLE  CONGREGATION  OF  MADRAS  TURBANS FEMALES 

DO  ALL  THE  REPENTING EFFECT  OF  SUCH  A  GORGEOUSLY 

DRESSED  MULTITUDE  OF  BLACK  WORSHIPPERS WORKS  IN 

MARBLE  AND  WORKS  IN  EBONY  AS  RELIGIOUS  ORNAMENTS 

REVERIE  IN  CATHOLIC  CHURCH INDISPENSABLE  ARTICLE 

OF  FURNITURE  WHICH  EVERY  NEGRESS  CARRIES  WITH  HER 
— DANISH  OFFICER'S  POLITENESS — HOT  UNIFORMS  OF  SOL 
DIERS  FROM  A  COLD  CLIMATE OTAHEITAN  FLOWERING 

TREE ARRIVAL  OF  ENGLISH  STEAMER RUSH  OF  PASSEN 
GERS  TO  THE  HOTEL  FOR  ICED  DRINKS NEWS  OF  THE 

DEATH  OF  MOORE POEM    AS    TO    THE    SINS    OF    GENIUS 

PROMISE  OF  SMOOTH  WATER  OCEAN-SAILING  ALONG  THE 
ANTILLES,  ETC. 

*  .  St.  Thomas,  March,  1852. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

Your  namesake,  our  consul  here,  (Wm.  Morris,  of 
Pennsylvania,)  has  kindly  accompanied  us  in  our  excur- 


62  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

sions,  and  I  could  give  you,  from  his  lips,  a  very  minute 
account  of  the  trees,  plants  and  insects  of  the  Antilles. 
He  is  a  close  observer,  and  studies  well  what  is  around 
him.  Though  most  interesting  to  see,  however,  such 
matters  are  not  very  interesting  to  read  about,  and  so  I 
spare  you.  But,  with  your  earliest  "  pulmonary  com 
plaint,"  come  and  see,  smell,  and  examine  them. 

The  predominating  society,  at  St.  Thomas,  is  German. 
The  wealthiest  merchants  are  of  that  nation,  and  the 
largest  shops  are  curiously  faithful  copies  of  the  booths 
of  Leipsic  Fair.  Nature  having  no  caprices  in  central 
Europe,  (German  tradesmen  never,  by  any  accident, 
looking  like  anything  but  German  tradesmen,)  the  male 
portion  of  the  "  best  society  "  of  St.  Thomas  is  not  ve 
ry  ornamental.  There  seem  to  be  no  Danes,  (Danish 
though  be  the  Government,)  except  military  men  and 
public  officials ;  but  these  have  been  voted,  by  our  fair 
travelling  companions,  a  remarkably  handsome  and  dis 
tinguished-looking  set  of  men.  There  are  but  six 
American  families,  and  as  few  English. 

The  voice  seems  to  be  the  great  escape-valve  for  all 
manner  of  excitement,  among  the  negroes.  I  rushed  to 
the  window,  this  morning,  thinking  from  the  sudden 
screaming  of  one  or  two  hundred  women,  that  the  towji 
must  have  been  cracked  open  by  an  earthquake.  The 
street  was  full  of  people,  and,  for  half  an  hour,  I  watch 
ed  the  negresses  vociferating,  like  furies,  at  each  other, 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS.  63 

and  with  looks  that  I  should  have  interpreted  to  indi 
cate  a  quarrel  between  every  two.  One  of  the  hotel 
waiters  came  up,  after  a  while,  and  explained  the  cause 
of  so  much  vehement  talking.  A  new-born  black  baby 
had  been  found  drowned  in  the  harbor,  and  was  laid 
out,  for  recognition,  at  the  Police-office,  a  few  doors 
above.  In  any  other  population,  it  seems  to  me,  the 
horror  inspired  by  such  a  sight  would  have  been  ex 
pressed  by  a  hush,  or  an  undervoiced  interchange  of 
feeling.  Here  it  made  a  clamor,  pitched  at  the  highest 
possible  key.  Turn  over  the  philosophy  of  the  differ  - 
ence,  at  your  leisure. 

Sunday — and  I  have  been  to  church.  Following  the 
tide  of  the  Madras  turbans  flowing  past  the  door  of 
the  hotel,  I  found  myself  at  matins  in  a  crowded  Catho 
lic  chapel,  the  candles  burning  before  the  Virgin,  and 
chant  and  prayer  pouring  zealously  forth — but  myself, 
apparently,  the  only  male  or  white  worshipper  in  the 
congregation.  The  females  of  the  colored  race  seem  to 
do  all  the  repenting,  and  to  do  it  devoutly,  whatever  be 
their  share  of  the  sinning.  You  can  scarcely  conceive 
the  magnificent  effect  of  such  a  multitude  of  turbans, 
each  one  combining  the  most  brilliant  possible  colors, 
assembled  under  one  roof  before  an  altar.  When  the 
chant  recommenced,  and  all  rose  to  their  feet,  it  was 
like  an  acre  of  tulips  rising  up  to  pray.  The  whitest 
of  chemises  lay  loose  around  every  pair  of  black  shoul- 


64  HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE      TROPICS. 

ders ;  and,  pendant  on  both  sides  of  every  draperied 
head,  hung  enormous  ear-rings  of  gold,  in  strong  relief 
upon  the  circles  of  black  skin,  and  glittering  in  the  im 
perfect  light ;  and,  altogether,  the  spectacle  was — what 
shall  I  say  ? — more  tropical  than  religious,  perhaps,  but 
artistically  most  impressive.  Well !  We  are  called  up 
on  to  find  hallowed  associations  in  the  work  of  man's 
hand  in  marble,  on  the  capital  of  the  Corinthian  col 
umn — why  not  find  a  hallowed  magnificence  added  to 
a  church  by  the  presence  of  a  thousand  works  of  God's 
hand  in  ebony,  and  these,  too,  all  making  responses  to 
every  appearance  devout  and  reverential  ?  Hours  of 
reverie  in  Catholic  churches  are  remembered,  by  most 
travellers,  among  the  luxuries  of  foreign  lands.  I  have 
no  reason  to  thank  St.  Thomas  of  the  Antilles  less  than 
St.  Peter  of  Rome,  for  the  equality  before  God  with 
which  I  went  in,  as  one  of  a  crowd  of  fellow-sinners, 
and  delivered  myself  over  to  the  influence  of  the  place, 
I  was  tranquillized  and  liberalized,  certainly — edified, 
perhaps. 

I  notice  a  little  personal  convenience,  which  the  ne- 
gresses  almost  invariably  carry  with  them — a  small 
wooden  cricket.  Whenever  they  meet  an  acquaintance, 
or  wish  to  stop  and  rest,  down  goes  the  cricket  in  the 
street,  and  they  are  seated  and  comfortable,  in  a  trice 
With  their  brilliantly  gay  dresses,  it  looks  rather  odd  to 
see  them  sitting  anywhere  about,  on  the  crowded 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.  65 

squares  or  walks,  but  they  have  no  idea  of  dirt  on  natu 
ral  earth  or  on  well-swept  pavement.  If  they  stop  to 
rest,  when  alone,  they  oftenest  throw  themselves  upon 
the  ground,  in  a  reclining  position,  and  place  the  cricket 
under  the  elbow  or  in  the  hollow  of  the  arm.  Mr.  G-. 
and  1  stopped  to  admire  a  spacious  black  Venus,  yes 
terday,  who  was  lying  in  this  way  on  the  loose  sand  of 
the  pier,  as  elegant  in  her  pose  and  drapery  as  if  she 
had  been  modelled  by  a  Grecian  sculptor. 

We  were  strolling  around  the  castle,  last  evening, 
when  a  very  tall  and  fair-haired  Danish  officer,  who 
chanced  to  be  on  duty,  stepped  out  and  invited  us  into 
his  quarters.  He  had  a  large  room  overlooking  the 
bay,  and  hung  round  with  the  engraved  portraits  of  the 
distinguished  men  of  his  native  land,  and  his  centre- 
table  was  covered  with  books,  reviews  and  newspapers, 
showing  a  taste  for  reading  which  a  soldier  sometimes 
contrives  to  do  without.  After  a  little  conversation,  he 
showed  us  the  interior  of  the  castle,  the  barracks,  guard 
rooms,  etc.,  and  took  us  up  to  the  parapets,  which  beau 
tifully  command  views  of  the  town  and  harbor.  The 
cleanliness  and  order  of  the  Danish  soldiers,  and  their 
quarters  and  equipments,  were  admirable,  but  they 
looked  a  little  pale  upon  the  climate.  Their  small  cloth 
caps  and  tightly  buttoned  cloth  uniforms  looked  like 
positive  inflictions  in  this  thin-jacket  atmosphere.  Scrib- 
ner's  newly  published  book  on  St.  Thomas  mentions 


66  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

that  the  trenches  of  this  castle  were  formerly  defended 
only  by  the  cactus,  whose  prickly  thorns  would  keep  out 
any  intruder  unless  in  a  coat  of  mail :  but,  at  present 
the  fortifications  are  all  of  stone  and  mortar  complete 
ness.  In  one  of  the  cultivated  corners  of  the  grounds, 
by  the  way,  I  stopped  to  admire  a  fine  tree,  bearing  a 
gorgeous  crimson  flower ;  and  this,  our  courteous 
friend  informed  us,  was  an  Otaheitan  product.  There 
is  taste  as  well  as  discipline  among  the  Danish  govern 
mental  s.  "We  parted  from  our  friend  while  the  sentry 
presented  arms,  very  much  indebted  for  his  spontaneous 
and  polite  kindness. 

%\th. — The  English  steamer  has  arrived,  at  last — five 
days  behind  her  time,  and  twenty-two  days  from  South 
ampton.  Yet  this  boat,  (the  Thames)  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  and  fastest  of  the  line.  The  passengers 
have  just  come  ashore,  and  six  or  eight  of  them  are 
seated  on  the  verandah  of  our  hotel,  perfectly  rabid 
over  sherry  cobblers — the  first  Transatlantic  product 
jointly  and  severally  thought  of  and  called  for.  They 
pronounce  ice,  as  found  in  the  Tropics,  a  luxury  ce 
lestial. 

In  a  copy  of  the  London  Times,  brought  ashore  by 
one  of  these  gentlemen,  I  find  the  announcement  of  the 
death  of  MOORE.  I  little  thought,  in  looking  up  his 
"  calabash  tree,"  at  Bermuda,  the  other  day,  and  writ 
ing  gayly  about  him,  that  he  was  dead  at  the  time.  So 


HEALTH      TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS.  67 

passes  a  poet  from  this  troubled  planet !  Honor  to  his 
memory  !  I  saw,  by  the  way,  in  the  same  paper,  a  po 
etical  remonstrance  against  the  fanatical  prejudice  that 
denied  to  Byron  a  corner  in  Westminster  Abbey,  and 
would  now  deny  it  to  Moore — for  their  sins.  It  was 
dated  at  the  "  Athenaeum  Club,"  and,  of  course,  was 
written  by  a  man  whose  opinions  would  be  respected. 
I  copied  one  verse,  the  doctrine  of  which  I  thought 
might  interest  you  : — 

"  In  our  holiest  shrine  there  is  but  one  corner, 

Fit  shrine  to  deposit  his  honored  remains, 
Not  saved  for  the  sinless,  but  due,  tell  the  scorner, 
To  genius  whose  brightness  extinguished  its  s'aina" 

There  will  be  interesting  biographies  written  of  Moore. 
The  society  in  which  he  moved  is  full  of  anecdotes  of 
him.  He  was  a  man  whose  every  action  seemed  like  a 
trait  of  character.  His  pulse  beat  integers,  not  ciphers. 
But,  I  am  forgetting  that  the  subject  is  probably  over 
written  upon,  by  this  time,  in  New-York. 

Our  steamer,  the  Derwent,  has  waited  only  for  the 
mails  by  the  Thames,  and  we  start,  this  afternoon,  to 
pay  our  respects  to  islands  nearer  the  equator.  I  un 
derstand  that  we  run  under  the  lee  of  islands  nearly  all 
the  way,  and  that  the  sailing  is  as  smooth  as  from  Ho- 
boken  to  Undercliff— so  I  may  write  you  a  description 
or  two  from  under  the  awning  of  the  deck,  daguerreo- 
typically. 


LETTER    No.  9, 


TIDE  OF  ENGLISH  TRAVEL  FROM  SOUTHAMPTON,  TOUCHING  AT 

ST.  THOMAS JOHN  BULL  OUT  OF  PLACE  IN  THE  TROPICS 

NATURE'S  TWO  JOURNEYMEN   AT  MOUNTAIN-MAKING,  AND 

THEIR    DIFFERENT    STYLE    OF    WORK TWO    HEAVENS 

NECESSARY  FOR  THE  CARIB  AND  THE  ENGLISHMAN ENG 
LISH  COLONIAL  ISLANDS  ALL  ALIKE,  AS  TO  HOUSES  AND  IN 
HABITANTS DAME  NATURE  ATMOSPHERICALLY  DRESSED  OR 

UNDRESSED CLIMATE     TOO     CLEAR.     FOR     THE     DISTANCE 

THAT  "  LENDS  ENCHANTMENT  TO  THE  VIEW  " NIGHTS  EX- 

CEPTED  AND  STARS  WONDROUSLY  BRIGHT  AND  BEAUTIFUL 

THE      SOUTHERN     CROSS THE       FRENCH      ISLANDS       HAVE 

RIVERS,  THE  ENGLISH  ISLANDS  NONE AMAZING  PRODI 
GALITY  OF  FOLIAGE  AT  GUADALOUPE ENGLISH  ECSTACIES 

MODIFIED  BY  FEAR  OF   HUMBUG FRENCHMEN  .COMING    ON 

BOARD  AT  GUADALOUPE CLOSE    CONTACT,  EVEN  IN   THES^E 

CLIMATES,  NEVER  ASSIMILATING  THE  FRENCH  AND  ENG 
LISH,  ETC. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

In  taking  the  steamer  for  the  Southern  Antilles,  at 
St.  Thomas,  we  fell  upon  the  tide  of  English  Colonial 
travel — officers  on  their  way  to  join  their  regiments  at 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS.  69 

Barbadoes  and  Demerara,  chaplains  and  civil  function 
aries,  governesses,  nurses,  and  mercantile  agents,  all 
talking  unmitigated  English — and,  with  ears  so  full  of 
London,  I  have  really  found  it  difficult,  for  the  last  day 
or  two,  to  realize  that  my  eyes  were  full  of  the  tropics. 
John  Bull  does  not  seem  to  me  to  belong  here.  Refined 
and  intelligent  as  the  company  on  deck  is,  (and  there 
are  two  or  three  remarkably  beautiful  women  among 
them,)  their  accent,  dress,  character  and  deportment,  all 
seem  out  of  harmony  with  the  climate  and  scenery. 
Try  to  make  a  vase  for  a  bouquet  of  magnolias,  by  ty 
ing  one  of  your  own  particularly  stiff  and  white  shirt- 
collars  around  them,  my  dear  friend,  and  you  will  see  a 
faint  type  of  the  contrast  I  refer  to. 

We  have  been  gliding  along  for  a  day  or  two,  under 
the  shores  of  these  isles  of  eternal  summer,  the  sea  as 
smooth,  (except  here  and  there  where  the  swell  of  the 
Atlantic  has  a  chance  between  two  of  them,)  as  the 
Hudson  among  the  Highlands.  They  are  ranges  of 
mountains  in  the  sea.  You  have  no  idea  of  their  out 
line,  because  you  only  know  mountains  as  made  by  the 
Deluge.  Nature  has  another  journeyman,  however — 
the  Volcano — and  he  did  the  job  for  the  Tropics;  and 
very  different  are  the  mountains  of  his  making.  They 
look,  indeed,  like  Apennines  in  stacks,  waiting  for  an 
earthquake  to  distribute  them.  The  Catskills  and  Alle- 
ghanics  are  arranged,  and  in  their  places.  The  waves 


70  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS. 

and  eddies  of  the  Deluge  shaped  their  summits  grace 
fully,  and  proportioned  them  with  proper  bases  and 
approaches,  by  slopes  and  plains.  But  here  are  moun 
tains  piled  up  like  clouds,  at  angles  with  which  the  law 
of  gravitation  seems  to  have  had  nothing  to  do — some 
lying  on  their  sides,  and  some  bottom  upwards,  preci 
pices  leaning  the  wrong  way,  and  ravines  of  the  most 
unaccountable  abruptness,  one  Alp  rolled  down  upon 
the  beach,  and  half  a  dozen  placed  toppling  on  the  edge 
of  what  would  elsewhere  have  been  a  summit  range  by 
itself — it  really  seems  as  if  the  rest  of  the  world  were 
made  by  some  tamer  standard,  to  accord  with  more  re 
gular  laws  of  beauty,  gentler  tastes  and  passions  less 
tumultuous.  The  Carib  and  John  Bull  would  never  be 
comfortable  together  in  the  same  heaven,  I  am  quite 
sure,  if  this  scenery  and  that  of  England  are  fair  types 
of  their  respective  natures. 

Of  St.  Eustatia,  St.  Kitts  and  Nevis  we  had  only 
this  ranging  view,  taken  from  the  sea  as  we  coasted 
along.  The  English  towns,  where  we  stopped  to  leave 
the  mails,  are  all  alike,  angularly  built,  and  looking  very 
unpicturesque.  They  have  no  wharves,  and,  to  land 
you  must  run  your  Voat  upon  the  beach.  AVith  the 
wonderful  rarity  of  the  -atmosphere,  you  can  read  the 
signs  almost  as  well  from  your  anchorage  in  the  Bay  as 
from  the  sides  of  the  streets,  and  the  West  Indians  who 
were  on  board  told  us  that  nothing  was  gained  bv  L-O- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  71 

ing  on  shore,  excepting  of  such  other  Englishmen  and 
negroes  as  were  not  standing  on  the  quay.  Having 
Been  the  Britisher  in  one  colony  you  have  seen  him  in 
all — there  being  no  beginning  of  a  shading  in  to  the 
negro  type  or  habits,  notwithstanding  the  strong  eman 
cipation  talk  against  distinctions  of  blood. 

At  Guadaloupe,  the  French  island,  we  found  Daine 
Nature  once  more  with  a  little  drapery  on — mists  on 
the  mountain  tops,  and  a  visible  atmosphere  in  the  val 
leys — and  we  suddenly  realized  how  unbecoming  had 
been  her  absolute  nudity  during  the  week  gone 
by.  For  days  and  days  we  had  seen  no  atmosphere 
— no  such  thing  as  distance — no  such  charm  as  per 
spective.  Everything  looked  strangely  bare  and 
near,  and  over  all  the  mountains  there  was  a  mono 
tone  of  tint  which  would  have  driven  a  painter 
to  despair.  As  to  the  horizon,  it  seems  so  near,  that,  if 
you  were  washing  your  hands  on  deck,  you  might  try 
to  throw  the  slops  over  it,  as  you  would  over  the  ship's 
side.  The  sun  goes  down,  as  it  were,  next  door.  Fan 
cy  comes  back  discouraged,  from  any  attempt  to  leave 
the  spot  you  stand  upon.  I  should  except  only,  that 
the  night  is  made  beautiful,  by  this  wondrous  clearness. 
The  stars  are  intensely  brilliant.  Our  fellow-passenger, 
the  English  clergyman,  told  me,  that,  when  the  moon 
was  not  up,  (which  it  is  now,  and  full,)  they  could  al 
ways  see  their  shadows  on  the  ground,  cast  by  the  eve- 


72  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

ning  star.  What  with  this  startling  brilliancy,  and  the 
change  in  the  places  of  the  planets  and  constellations 
with  our  change  of  latitude  it  seems  as  one  lies  on  his 
back  on  deck,  like  looking  up  to  a  strange  sky,  in  some 
"  brighter  and  better  world."  If  I  had  time  to  get  my 
muse  into  training,  I  should  certainly  write  some  poe 
try  to  this  glorious  Southern  Cross,  that  gleams  over 
the  Equator  like  an  illuminated  crucifix.  For  rny  self- 
denying  prose,  just  now,  heaven  reward  me  ! 

Dress  one  mountain  in  leafy  June,  and  let  ail  the 
mountains  around  be  stripped  for  leafless  November, 
and  you  have  a  fair  similitude  of  Guadaloupe  in  con 
trast  with  the  islands  we  had  passed  before  coming  to 
it.  St.  Thomas,  St.  Kitts,  St.  Eustatia,  Nevis,  and 
Montserrat,  are  comparatively  bare.  They  are  volcanic 
islands  without  rivers,  their  inhabitants  depending  on 
the  rains  for  water.  But  Guadaloupe  is  plentifully 
coursed  with  rivers  that  start  from  its  mountain-tops, 
and,  as  you  approach  it  from  the  other  islands,  it  is,  to 
the  eye,  like  a  sudden  plunge  into  mid-summer.  Of  the 
prodigality  of  leaf  upon  its  tropical  trees,  no  language 
can  give  you  any  idea.  Like  "  velvet  of  three  pile,"  it 
is  a  June  thrice  heaped — a  group  of  the  loveliest- 
shaped  mountains,  burthened  three  Junes  deep  with 
foliage.  From  the  time  we  began  to  distinguish  this  is 
land,  somewhere  about  seven  in  the  morning,  until  we 
had  passed  its  southernmost  point,  a  little  after  noon. 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS  73 

the  passengers  on  board  were  as  much  absorbed  with  it 
as  an  audience  with  a  play.  It  was  like  a  panorama  of 
Nature  idealized.  The  families  of  the  English  officers,  the 
chaplain  and  his  wife,  the  merchants  and  others,  all 
stood  in  wonder  at  the  railings  of  the  quarter-deck,  ex 
pressing  their  surprise  and  delight  with  London's  most 
emphatic  though  most  unpoetical  exclamations.  Gua- 
daloupe's  '•  cheeks  must  have  burned  " — that  is,  if  an 
island  can  know  when  it  is  sitting  for  its  picture. 

We  rounded  to,  off  Guadaloupe,  as  at  the  other  is 
lands,  to  deliver  mails  and  take  and  leave  passengers, 
and  received  quite  an  accession  to  our  company  in  a 
number  of  Frenchmen,  bound  to  the  other  French  is 
land  of  Martinique,  which  we  were  to  reach,  farther  on. 
The  white  kid  gloves  of  those  polite  gentlemen,  their 
shirts  with  ruffled  sleeves,  and  their  very  ornamental 
manners,  made  a  strong  contrast  with  the  studiously  in 
elegant  travelling  costumes,  and  laboriously  un-hum- 
bugy-y  manners  of  the  English  passengers.  How 
these  nations  do  stay  dissimilar,  to  be  sure !  Here  is 
Guadaloupe,  between  two  English  Islands,  Antigua  a 
few  hours  North,  and  Dominica  one  hour  South,  and 
yet  no  symptoms  of  assimilation  between  its  inhabitants 
and  their  neighbors.  The  distinctions  of  that  Babel 
business  have  lasted  a  great  while ! 

But  I  must  to  my  berth.     Good  night. 


LETTER    No.    10. 


ALTERATIONS  IN  PUNCTUATION  BY  ANTS PROBABLE  ETYMOLO 
GY  OF  "  ANTILLES" — ALTERATIONS  PLANS — PREFERENCE 

OF      MARTINIQUE    TO      BARBADOES EMPRESS     JOSIPHENfi's 

BIRTH-PLACE MARTINIQUE  THE    "  FIFTH  AVENUE"  OF  THE 

ANTILLES GOING    ASHORE  WITH  AN  UNUSUAL  LAP-FULL— 

JERSEY    FERRY    OUTDONE NOTE    ON    NEGRO    LANGUAGE 

LOSS  AND  RE-CAPTURE  OF  BAGGAGE CUSTOM-HOUSE  VEXA 
TIONS RECEPTION  AT  HOTEL USES  OF  PERSEVERANCE 

APPARITION   OF    CREOLE   BEAUTY THE    GOOD   STAR  OF 

WOMAN'S  KINDNESS — NEGRO  MANNERS  AFTER  FOUR  YEARS 

OF  EMANCIPATION INSOLENCE  AFTER  BEING  OVERPAID 

LANDLORD  PITCHING  A  NEGRO  HERCULES  DOWN  STAIRS, 

ETC. 

Martinque,  April,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

My  date,  just  written,  is  a  little  illegible,  and  I  take 
the  opportunity  to  beg  you  to  guard  the  printer  against 
the  alterations  made  in  my  manuscript  by  the  omnipre- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  75 

Bent  ants  of  this  teeming  climate.*  I  called  my  friend's 
attention,  just  now,  while  I  counted  to  him  thirteen,  who 
were  running  up  and  down  on  the  quill  with  which  I 
was  writing.  They  are  all  over  my  table  and  paper. 
The  pitchers  and  washbowls  are  full  of  them.  You 
clean  your  teeth  with  ants  and  water — wash  in  ants  and 
water — sleep  on  ants  and  a  mattrass — all  well  enough, 
if  they  were  not  attracted  by  fresh  ink  as  well  as  by 
other  moisture.  They  do  not  sip,  either.  They  first 
walk  through  the  liquid  of  which  they  intend  to  taste, 
and  hence  you  see  my  tribjulation.  They  turn  my  pe 
riods  into  commas,  my  semicolons  into  notes  of  admira 
tion,  my  quotation-marks  into  stars,  etc.,  etc.  Perhaps 
it  never  occurred  to  you  before,  why  these  Islands  are 
called  the  "  J^illes" — a  corruption  of  the  plain  English 
word  ant-hills,  if  my  experience  goes  for  anything. 
Finding  Guadaloupe  so  beautiful,  and  so  much  more 

*  To  show  you  that  others  have  found  tropical  insect  life  as 
"  teeming"  as  I  have,  read  the  following  passage  from,  a  work  on 
these  islands,  written  by  Henry  N.  Breen,  who  was  thirteen  years 
a  resident  here  : — 

"  The  most  remarkable  insects  are  the  scorpion,  woodslave,  an- 
nulated  lizard,  locust,  tarantula,  centipede,  wasp,  blacksmith, 
musquito,  bat,  cockroach,  fly,  chigre,  beetle,  fire-fly,  spider,  wood- 
ant,  butterfly,  bete-rouge,  caterpillar,  grasshopper,  cricket  and 
bee.  Of  these,  the  scorpion  and  centipede  are  the  most  danger 
ous,  the  ant  and  wood-ant  the  most  destructive,  the  musquito  the 
most  troublesome,  and  the  cockroach  the  most  repulsive.  The 
destruction  caused  by  the  ant  is  generally  confined  to  plants  and 
flowers  ;  but  the  depredations  of  the  wood- ant  extend  to  the 
houses,  furniture,  and  even  clothes  of  the  inhabitants  •  and  the 


76  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

picturesque  in  its  architecture  and  cultivation  than  the 
English  Islands,  and  hearing  that  Martinique  was  still 
more  beautiful  and  interesting,  we  were  induced  to  make 
a  little  alteration  in  our  plans.  Barbadoes,  where  we 
had  intended  to  make  a  short  stay,  was  described  to  us, 
by  the  intelligent  clergyman  on  board  who  resided  there, 
and  we  gathered  that  it  was  merely  a  very  large  and 
prosperous  colony,  peculiarly  English,  and  with  nothing 
either  of  scenery  or  society  that  would  be  to  us  any 
thing  of  a  novelty.  Martinique,  on  the  contrary,  (which 
we  were  about  to  pass  in  the  night  time,  unseen,)  was 
described  as  a  garden  of  romantic  beauty,  more  con 
servatively  French  even  than  the  old  towns  of  France, 
peopled  with  a  charmingly  graceful  and  courteous 
Creole  population,  (of  whom  the  Empress  Josephine, 
as  you  will  remember,  was  one,)  antique  in  its 


mischief  they  occasion  is  no  less  incredible  than  the  promptitude 
with  which  it  is  accomplished.  The  following  humorous  remarks 
appeared  some  years  ago  in  the  E<lin'-urph  Review  : — The  bete- 
ronge  lays  the  foundation  of  a  tremendous  ulcer.  In  a  moment 
you  are  covered  with  ticks  :  flies  get  into  your  nose,  you  eat  flies, 
drink  flies,  breathe  flies.  Lizards,  cockroaches  and  snakes  get 
into  your  bed  ;  ants  eat  up  the  books  ;  scorpions  sting  you  on  the 
foot.  Everything  bites,  stings  or  bruises  ;  every  second  of  your 
life  you  are  wounded  by  some  piece  of  animal  life  An  insect 
with  eleven  legs  is  swimming  in  your  tea-cup  ;  a  nondescript 
with  nine  wings  is  struggling  in  the  small-beer,  or  a  caterpillar, 
with  several  dozen  eyes  in  its  belly,  is  hastening  over  the  bread 
and  butter.  All  nature  is  alive,  and  seems  to  be  gathering  her 
entomological  hosts  to  eat  you  up,  as  you  are  standing,  out  of  your 
coat,  waistcoat  and  breeches." 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.  77 

buildings  and  habits,  and  isolated  from  the  poetry- 
killing  mediocritizing  of  the  times.  The  name  by  which 
the  island  goes,  in  France — "The Faubourg  St.  Germain 
of  the  Tropics" — was,  in  itself,  a  stimulus  to  our  cu 
riosity. 

The  steamer's  jolly-boat  had  twenty-four  passengers 
to  take  ashore  at  Martinique — all  French  with  the  ex 
ception  of  ourselves.  It  was  close  stowing.  I  sat  in 
the  stern,  next  the  "  middy"  at  the  rudder,  and  in  my 
lap  sat  a  broad-based  pyramid  of  a  negress,  while,  in 
her  lap,  was  her  baggage,  viz  :  a  well-packed  basket. 
and  the  article  of  crockery  without  which  a  French  wo 
man  seldom  commits  herself  to  the  chances  of  travel. 
The  glorious  moon  in  the  heavens  had  seldom  looked 
down  upon  so  much  flesh  and  blood,  (and  its  baggage,) 
in  so  limited  a  compass.  The  bay  was  smooth,  how 
ever.  Half  a  mile  or  less  was  not  far  to  carry  even  such 
a  lap-ful  of  emancipation  as  mine.  We  were  safely 
pulled  ashore,  and  debarqued  into  a  confusion  and 
clamor  of  negroes  which  promised  very  little  for  the 
comfort  of  the  place.  Of  this,  our  premier  accueil,  I 
must  still  further  describe  the  annoyances  ;  because, 
though  I  have  to  commend  Martinique  as  probably  the 
most  delightful  of  all  the  world's  neglected  spots,  I 
should  frankly  prepare  the  traveller  for  a  first  arrival 
that  is  a  little  discouraging. 


78     HEALTH  TRIP   TO  THE  TROPICS. 

Deposited  with  our  trunks  and  carpet-bags  upon  a 
narrow  frame-work,  or  bridge,  without  railing,  that  juts 
out  from  the  beach  as  a  landing  for  canoes  and  row- 
boats,  we  had  half  an  hour's  struggle  with  innumerable 
negroes,  to  keep  our  baggage  together,  and  ourselves 
from  being  crowded  and  knocked  overboard — a  strug 
gle  which  amounted,  at  a  moderate  estimate,  I  should 
say,  to  about  seven  Jersey-Ferry  experiences  condensed 
into  one.  The  screaming  jargon  of  the  almost  naked 
wretches  was,  to  me,  wholly  unintelligible.  I  rescued 
my  heavy  portmanteau  repeatedly  from  the  tops  of 
woolly  heads  upon  which  it  had  magically  mounted, 
determined  not  to  make  a  start  without  my  friend,  who 
had  been  missing  from  the  first  moment.  I  was  seized 
hold  of,  by  two  furious  baboons  at  a  time,  who  had 
crowded  me  to  the  corner  of  the  platform,  and  fought 
with  fist  and  tongue  for  the  possession  of  me.  There 
was  no  light  except  the  moon's,  nobody  to  give  the 
slightest  intelligible  hint  of  whom  to  trust  or  where  to 
go.  I  should  have  liked  to  make  some  inquiry  for  my 
lost  companion — but,  to  keep  my  identity  together, 
trunk,  carpet-bag  and  owner,  required  my  full  presence  ; 
and,  in  the  deafening  tumult  of  unintelligible  language,  I 
tried  in  vain  to  make  myself  understood.  The  name  of 
the  principal  hotel — wrhich  1  learned  from  the  lady  in 
my  lap,  while  coming  on  shore — was  the  only  syllable 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  79 

they  seemed  to  recognise  : — "  Hotel  des  Bains  !"  "  Oui, 
massa,  oui  !"* 

As  the  other  passengers  and  their  luggage  thinned 
away,  my  friend  became  visible  at  the  shore  end  of  the 
bridge,  and  we  succeeded  in  coming  together,  and  getting 
our  respective  effects  mounted  upon  the  woolly  summits 
of  two  emancipated  spines — it  being  the  understanding 
among  them,  apparently,  that  on  one  negro  head  could 
be  placed  all  that  could  possibly  belong  to  any  one 
traveller.  We  followed  on — as  we  supposed,  to  our 
hotel.  They  crossetl  a  broad  avenue  of  trees,  that  look 
ed  like  a  public  promenade,  turned  off  to  a  side  alley, 
and  suddenly  entering  a  narrow  vault,  paved  with  round 
stones,  and  walled  in  like  a  dirty  cellar,  they  made  a  de- 


*  The  writer  from  whose  description  of  these  islands  I  have  al 
ready  quoted,  says  of  the  dialect  which  I  found  so  incomprehen 
sible  :— 

"  The  negro  language  is  a  jargon  formed  from  the  French,  and 
composed  of  words,  or  rather  sounds,  adapted  to  the  organs  of 
speech  in  the  black  population.  As  a  pntotx,  it  is  even  more  un 
intelligible  than  that  spoken  by  the  negroes  in  the  English  col 
onies.  Its  distinguishing  feature  consists  in  the  suppression  of 
the  letter  '  r'  in  every  word  in  which  it  should  be  used,  and  the 
addition  of  «  ki  s'  and  '  ka  s'  to  assist  in  the  formation  of  the  tenses. 
It  is,  in  short,  the  French  language,  stripped  of  its  manly  and  dig 
nified  ornaments,  and  travestied  for  the  accommodation  of  chil 
dren  and  toothless  old  women  The  less  you  know  of  French, 
the  greater  aptitude  you  have  for  talking  negro.  I  can  say  for 
myself,  that  although  possessing  an  extensive  knowledge  of  the 
French  language,  acquired  during  a  sojourn  of  five  years  in 
France,  I  have  failed  in  obtaining  anything  like  an  adequate  no 
tion  of  this  gibberish,  during  a  residence  of  nearly  fifteen  years 
in  St.  Lucia  and  Martinique." 


80  HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

posit  of  our  baggage.  We  were  made  to  understand 
directly  that  this  was  the  custom-house.  Our  passports 
and  keys  were  demanded  by  officers  in  a  sort  of  uniform, 
and,  while  one  of  them  examined  nose,  chin  and  eyes, 
to  see  if  they  answered  the  description  which  was  sign 
ed  by  Daniel  Webster,  two  others  undertook  the  over 
haul  of  the  portmanteau. 

In  all  the  custom-houses  of  the  world — and  I  have 
been  in  most  of  them — I  never  saw  such  needless  and 
minute  official  impertinence.  It  was  probably  a  merely 
wanton  gratification  of  their  own  curiosity  and  that  of 
the  crowd  of  negroes  who  had  followed  us  from  the 
landing — but  not  an  article  in  my  trunk  escaped  dis 
play  and  examination.  With  no  ventilation  in  the  nar 
row  horse-stall  of  a  place,  a  hundred  odoriferous  black? 
packed  round  us  like  cigars  in  a  bundle,  and  the  ther 
mometer  at  82,  it  was  a  little  trying.  The  cut  of  my 
shirts  was  looked  into,  and  the  patterns  of  my  cravats. 
Boxes  were  opened,  cough-medicines  carefully  smelt  of, 
coats  held  up,  boots  stethoscoped,  squeezable  things 
squeezed  and  hollow  things  shaken.  And,  when  every 
thing  was  flung  back,  pell-mell,  into  the  portmanteau, 
how  to  get  lid  and  bottom  parallel  again  was  a  warm 
problem.  My  friend  had  his  negro  audience,  as  I  had 
mine.  We  were  both  completely  exhausted  and  used 
up  with  this  rude  and  needless  ordeal  of  official  imper 
tinence.  Yet  he  looked  very  little  like  a  smuggler,  and 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO     THE    TROPICS.  81 

/,  I  should  hope,  not  overmuch.  How  is  it  that  travel 
lers,  for  pleasure  or  health,  with  only  ordinary  baggage, 
meet  with  this  kind  of  reception,  on  landing  at  the  po 
litest  of  the  French  islands  ?  I  ask  the  question — as  I 
have  written  the  description — in  the  hope  of  bringing 
it  to  the  eyes  of  the  chief  of  the  black  and  white  Police 
of  St.  Pierre,  and  thus  suggesting  a  remedy  of  the  evil 
for  which  other  travellers  and  invalids  may  be  obliged 
to  me.  The  custom-house  of  Martinique  is,  at  present, 
a  very  dirty  gate  to  a  very  bright  little  strangers'  para 
dise. 

At  the  risk  of  being  tedious,  perhaps,  I  must  give 
you,  in  this  letter,  the  remainder  of  that  evening's  expe 
riences — the  next  morning's  sun  having  risen  on  mat 
ters  describable  only  in  a  less  complaining  key. 

From  the  custom-house  to  the  hotel  was  a  traverse 
through  several  dark  and  narrow  streets — half-past  ten, 
not  a  soul  abroad,  nor  a  light  in  a  window  on  the  way. 
To  rise  at  day-break,  as  they  do  in  these  climates,  they 
must  needs  lengthen  the  night  at  the  other  end.  The 
city  seemed  abed.  Our  barefooted  conductors  dodged 
at  last,  into  the  low  door  of  a  building  without  a  sign, 
and  we  found  ourselves  in  the  presence  of  several  mar 
ble  tables  and  a  comptoir — the  inseparable  belongings 
of  a  French  cafe.  The  landlord  made  his  appearance 
with  a  candle,  a  handsome  man  whose  fine  condition 

spoke  volumes  for  the  cooking  that  could  do  it,  and 
4* 


82  HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS. 

staggered  us  with  the  intelligence  that  he  had  not  a 
bed  to  spare.  He  would  go  up  stairs,  however, 
and  see  if  there  was  any  possibility  of  accommodating 
us.  As  our  baggage  was  still  on  the  negroes'  heads, 
I  motioned  to  them  to  follow,  and,  on  the  floor  of 
a  corridor  in  the  second  story,  I  ordered  them  to  unload 
— quite  sure  that  this  was  the  best  hotel  of  the  town, 
and  bent  on  making  a  lodgment  if  perseverance  could 
do  it. 

Each  of  our  herculean  black  porters  had  two  or 
three  followers ;  and,  while  these  were  chattering  like 
frantic  monkeys — night-caps  visible  through  inquiring 
doors — wo  pleading  and  the  landlord  protesting — 
a  new  and  interesting  feature  was  added  to  the  scene. 
A  plump  and  graceful  female  figure,  rather  above 
the  middle  height,  glided  indolently  towards  us  from  the 
end  of  the  corridor,  with  candle  in  hand,  and  eyelids 
still  heavy  with  sleep  that  had  at  least  been  thought  of. 
A  long,  primrose-colored  peignoir,  without  a  girdle, 
seemed  her  only  article  of  dress,  except  a  gorgeous  Ma 
dras  turban  half  loosened  from  her  head;  but,  withal, 
she  was  draped  magnificently,  and,  to  her  Creole  com 
plexion,  dark  eyes  and  snowy  teeth,  the  faint  yellow  of 
the  robe  was  in  relievo  most  becoming.  To  my 
surprise — (for,  noisy  negroes  and  all,  we  were  not  a 
very  desirable-looking  group  for  a  lady  to  approach) 
— she  quietly  seated  herself  on  my  portmanteau,  and, 


I 
HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.  83 

with  the  most  unconscious  expression  of  dreamy  curi 
osity,  listened  in  silence  to  the  arguments  and  chatter. 
She  was  to  be  the  arbi  tress  of  our  fate.  Her  quiet 
study  of  us  and  our  troubles  for  five  or  ten  minutes 
ended  in  our  favor ;  and,  with  a  word  or  two  to  the 
landlord,  she  gave  him  an  idea  for  an  arragement. 
There  was  an  unfurnished  saloon  in  another  part  of  the 
house.  If  we  would  accept  of  mattrasses,  for  the  night, 
upon  the  floor  of  this  saloon,  she  would  give  us  her  own 
room  in  the  morning.  Our  good  star — for  that  island 
— shone  in  the  dark  eyes  of  Madam  Stephanie. 

We  were  not  yet  rid  of  our  sable  convoy,  however. 
They  were  to  be  paid — and  they  looked  more  like  Ca- 
ribs  waiting  for  a  cutlet,  than  like  porters  waiting  for 
their  money.  The  leading  man,  particularly,  was  the 
ideal  of  a  soulless  herculean  brute ;  and,  remembering 
that  the  neighboring  island  of  Guadaloupe  was,  at  that 
moment,  under  martial  law  from  a  suppressed  insurrec 
tion,  and  that  a  massacre  was  still  fresh  in  the  history 
of  Martinique,  I  looked  at  the  manners  of  the  two- 
legged  savage  and  his  followers  with  some  curiosity. 
No  one  of  them,  I  observed,  showed  the  least  deference 
to  the  presence  of  our  host  and  hostess.  There  they 
lounged,  in  the  saloon,  with  their  hats  on,  strolling  about 
the  room  and  conversing  with  an  air  of  confident  inso 
lence  together,  and  only  changing  their  look,  when  they 
spoke  to  the  white  man,  by  putting  on  a  scowl  of  dog- 


84     HEALTH  TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS. 


ged  dislike.  Not  understanding  their  language  or  pri 
ces  for  labor,  I  had  given  the  landlord  a  gold  piece,  and 
requested  him  to  pay  them  for  us ;  he  did  so,  and  giv 
ing  them  about  twice  as  much  as  would  have  been 
asked  by  a  New  York  carman  for  the  same  porterage. 
But,  such  a  hurricane  of  vociferation  and  gesture  as 
followed  this,  T  had  never  before  witnessed.  The  sput 
ter  of  gibberish,  the  hoppings  about  the  floor,  the  vio 
lent  gesticulations,  were  like  the  frenzy  of  a  half  dozen 
exasperated  baboons.  It  was  hard  to  realize  that  these 
animals  were  represented,  color  and  opinions,  in  the 
National  Assembly  at  Paris.  Our  handsome  landlord 
was  evidently  used  to  this  sort  of  thing,  however.  He 
stood  the  colored  threats  and  eloquence  for  about  five 
minutes  very  coolly,  merely  pointing  the  black  leader 
to  the  door.  This  being  repeated  once  or  twice,  and  no 
attention  paid  to  it,  he  advanced  a  step,  and  quietly 
asked  the  man  whether  he  would  go  out  of  the  door  or 
out  of  the  window.  The  next  moment  he  had  seized 
him  by  the  shoulder,  spun  him  round  two  or  three  times 
by  a  dexterous  twirl,  and  when  his  face  was  rightly  di 
rected,  gave  him  an  impetus  which  sent  him  headlong 
down  the  steps  into  the  entry.  My  friend  and  I  stood 
looking  on  with  no  little  interest — travellers  seldom  re 
ceiving  such  active  service  from  their  host — but  ex 
pecting  somewhat  that  it  would  end  in  a  general  metee. 
The  negro  did  not  return,  however.  His  brother  ges- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  85 

ticulators  and  vociferators  were  suddenly  silenced,  and 
followed  him  as  if  they  preferred  to  help  themselves  to 
an  exit,  rather- than  give  the  landlord  the  trouble  ;  and 
so  ended  our  "  arrival  at  Martinique."  As  it  was  quite 
a  melodrama,  taken  all  together,  you  will  allow  me  to 
drop  the  curtain. 


LETTER   No,  11. 


TROPICAL  PERSUADER  FOR  EARLY  RISING THE  BUSINESS-DO 
ING    SEX    AND    THE    PRAYER-DOING  SEX    GOING  IN  OPPOSITE 

DIRECTIONS THE  MARTINIQUE  RIALTO PICTURESQUENESS 

OF  NO  WHARVES RESEMBLANCE    OF    ST.  PIERRE    TO    THE 

STRUCTURE  OF  A  THEATRE— AIR  OF    CARELESS    ELEGANCE 

ABOUT    THE    BLACK    AND    WHITE     MERCHANTS TROPICAL 

SLOVENLINESS  OF  COSTUME GENERAL  AIR  OF  THE  GENTLE 
MEN NEGROES    DRESSED  IN  TWO  POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS 

CURIOUS     ACCOMPANIMENT    TO    THE    SURF-ANTHEM DE 
SCRIPTION  OF    COASTING-BOATS    AND    CREWS STREETS    OF 

ST.     PIERRE     AT     SEVEN     IN     THE     MORNING VENERABLE 

BUILDINGS BRIGHT  RIVER  IN  EVERY  SPREET RETURN  TO 

BREAKFAST INSTALLED  IN  MADAME  STEPHANIE'S  BOUDOIR 

AND  BED-ROOM RESIGNATION    TO    OUR    CALAMITIES TRO 
PICAL    BREAKFAST    WITH    PARISIAN  COOKERY STRUCTURE 

OF  HOTEL  AND  POSITION  OF  EATING-ROOM NEGRO  GUESTS 

IN  THE  HOUSE,  AND    THEIR    POLITENESS BEAUTY    OF    OUR 

CARIB  WAITER COURSES    OF    DISHES THE    UNUSUAL    AD 
DITION     TO    OUR    BREAKFAST DESCRIPTION     OF     MADAMB 

STEPHANIE    ROUGE,    OUR    CREOLE     LANDLADY HER    HUS 
BAND,  ETC.,  ETC. 

St.  Pierre,  Capital  of  Martinique,  April,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  was  up  as  early  as  your  five  o'clock,  this  morning — 
being  about  one  hour  on  the  other  side  of  a  New- York 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  87 

sunrise — and,  by  the  tall  silver  tiagon  of  chocolate  and 
two  cups  of  exquisite  china,  which  were  there  to  en 
courage  us  out  of  bed,  I  saw  we  had  awaked  to  be 
well  treated.  We  were  to  take  the  morning  walk,  (our 
first  in  Martinique,)  and  come  back  to  find  ourselves  in 
stalled  in  the  quarters  kindly  relinquished  to  us  by  our 
hostess. 

As  sunrise  is  the  hour  to  be  "  on  'Change,"  in  the 
Tropics,  we  bent  our  steps  first  toward  the  Martinique 
Rialto,  to  see  the  business-doing  sex  of  the  place, 
though,  as  it  was  also  the  hour  for  matins,  we  encoun 
tered  a  current  of  the  prayer-doing  sex,  going  "  the 
other  way,  the  other  way  " — a  reproof  for  our  earliest 
morning  errand,  which  we  should  have  heeded,  proba 
bly,  but  that  we  could  take  the  more  pious  walk  in  the 
evening.  There  are  no  "  vespers  "  in  business. 

The  "  Wall  street "  of  St.  Pierre  is  a  beautiful  ave 
nue  of  tamarind  and  mango  trees,  extending  along  the 
beach  of  the  harbor,  and  edged  on  one  side  by  a  row 
of  old  and  picturesque  stone  buildings,  and  on  the  other 
by  the  white  surf  of  the  sea.  Some  of  the  larger  trees 
are  protected  from  the  chance  roll  of  a  sugar-hogshead 
by  a  triangular  seat  of  solid  masonry  ;  and,  along  un 
der  the  inner  line  of  trees,  facing  the  sea,  are  benches 
at  short  intervals,  with  sloping  backs,  mostly  occupied, 
at  the  moment  of  our  first  seeing  them,  by  lounging  and 
half-naked  negroes.  There  are  no  wharves,  except  a 


88     HEALTH   TRIP   TO  THE  TROPICS. 

short  projection  at  one  end  of  the  promenade,  where 
heavy  freight  is  rolled,  by  a  railway  of  a  few  feet,  into 
scows  or  lighters ;  and  the  vessels  lying  in  port  are,  of 
course,  at  anchor  in  the  Bay — leaving  the  clean  beach 
of  sand  comparatively  unobstructed,  and  adding  as 
much  to  the  picturesqueness  as  it  subtracts  from  the 
convenience  of  the  harbor.  When  I  add  that  a  hemi 
sphere  of  mountains  closes  around  this  spot,  almost  as 
erectly  and  abruptly  as  the  galleries  close  in  the  pit  of 
a  theatre — the  Rialto  promenade  extending  across  it 
like  the  row  of  foot-lights,  and  the  city  located  behind 
it  like  the  seats  of  the  parterre — you  will  get  a  very 
correct  similitude  by  which  to  judge  of  its  shape  and 
position.  As  these  high  and  forever-green  mountains 
are  on  the  east  side,  of  course  the  shops,  the  business- 
promenade,  and  the  churches,  enjoy  an  hour  or  two  of 
the  most  refreshing  and  protecting  shade  in  the  morn 
ing,  which  makes  the  first  dawn  the  most  active  and 
stirring  hour  of  the  day. 

The  first  general  novelty  which  struck  us,  in  the  look 
of  the  crowd  upon  the  promenade,  was  the  universally 
elegant  and  insouciant  indolence  of  gait,  look  and  ges 
ture.  Black  and  white  gentlemen  merchants  strolled 
up  and  down,  or  stood  in  groups  and  couples  under  the 
trees,  conversing,  as  the  French  do,  with  abundant  ac 
tion,  but  with  no  approach  to  an  angular  movement,  or 
any  of  that  sharp  and  sudden  impatience  of  glance,  or 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.  89 

change  of  posture,  which  would  characterize  a  business 
dialogue  in  Wall  street.  Every  man  had  a  cigar  in  his 
mouth,  and  every  man  smoked  indolently.  There  was 
a  certain  slovenliness  in  the  costume  of  the  climate — the 
slouching  straw  hat,  the  loose  coats  and  pantaloons,  and 
the  careless  cravats — but,  withal,  there  was  an  air  of 
Creole  grace  and  hiisscr-aller  in  the  ensemble,  wrhich  har 
monized  well  with  the  make  and  movement  of  the  men ; 
and  well  with  the  climate,  to  which  they  looked  native- 
born  and  related.  They  seemed  to  me  considerably 
above  the  average  height  of  the  French  race,  generally 
very  thin,  and  of  sallow  complexion.  The  air  of  grave 
courtesy  in  the  countenance,  and  in  the  manner  of  ac 
costing  and  parting,  w%s  very  different  from  that  of  bu 
siness  crowds  in  most  places,  and  very  attractive  to  a 
stranger. 

The  beach  was  a  very  busy  scene.  Numberless 
boats  with  their  prows  run  high  upon  the  sand,  were 
lading  and  unlading — the  black  crews  half  the  time  in 
the  surf,  and  working  with  a  headlong  vehemence  and 
want  of  mechanical  contrivance  that  threw  away  a  great 
deal  of  their  strength.  Their  dress  amounted,  gener 
ally,  to  two  pocket-handkerchiefs,  one  around  the  head — 
and  the  sweat  rolled  down  their  broad  black  backs  and 
ebony  legs  with  the  profuseness  of  a  summer  shower, 
To  heat  and  the  sun  they  seemed  altogether  insensible. 
Their  merry  joking,  and  most  noisy  and  unceasing 


90  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

chatter,  kept  their  white  teeth  in  perpetual  display,  and 
gave  their  work  the  appearance  of  a  game  for  fan. 
The  deliberate  and  solemn  thunder  of  the  surf  upon 
the  beach,  and  the  curiously  superficial  and  un-impregna- 
ted  cadences  of  the  negro  voice,  were  in  singular  con 
tradiction.  To  the  eternal  "Thus  far  shalt  thou  go 
and  no  farther,"  there  seemed  a  reply  of  baboon 
laughter. 

The  "  coasting  boats "  that  were  coming  to  town 
from  the  villages  on  the  Southern  shore,  (and  which 
come  up  with  oars  against  the  trade-wind,  and  go  back 
with  sails,)  were  very  picturesque.  They  are  long 
crafts,  with  about  six  oarsmen  on  a  side;  and  these 
dozen  propellors  lessen  their  lalJbr  by  the  principle  of 
gravitation — rising  to  their  full  height  with  the  dip  of 
the  oar,  and  falling  flat  on  their  backs  to  make  the  pull 
by  their  inclining  weight.  It  was  a  curious  sight  to  see 
a  boat  moving  ahead  by  the  action  of  a  sort  of  sponta 
neous  quarter  of  a  wheel,  whose  paddles  were  six  naked 
negroes  on  a  side. 

From  the  thronged  quay  we  passed  into  the  streets, 
scarcely  less  thronged  at  seven  in  the  morning,  and  fed 
our  eyes  upon  forms,  costumes  and  manners,  of  which  I 
.will  speak,  by  and  by,  with  more  study  and  better 
knowledge.  The  look  of  the  town  is  romantic,  in  all  its 
features ;  and  peculiarly  unlike  American  cities,  as  wrell 
as  unlike  the  other  island  towns  of  this  Tropical  Archi 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  91 

pelago.  The  trashy  temporariness  of  the  architecture 
elsewhere  is  not  found  here.  An  English  writer  apolo 
getically  says  : — "The  French  colonists,  whether  Creoles 
or  French,  consider  the  AVest  Indies  as  their  country; 
they  cast  no  wistful  looks  towards  France ;  they  mar 
ry,  educate  and  build,  in  and  for  the  West  Indies,  and 
for  the  West  Indies  alone.  In  English  colonies  it  is 
different ;  they  are  considered  more  as  temporary  lodg 
ing-places,  to  be  deserted  so  soon  as  they  have  made 
money  enough  by  molasses  and  sugar  to  return  home. 
It  was  delightful  to  my  eye  to  see  no  sign  of  fresh 
paint,  white,  red,  or  green.  Every  building  is  of  vener 
able  stone,  antique  in  structure  and  windowed  with 
deepest  jalousies  and  massive  outside  shutters,  the 
doors  unprojecting  beyond  the  smooth  wall,  and  the 
overhanging  roof  frowning  with  moss  covered  tiles. 
The  streets  are  narrow,  as  the  climate  requires ;  but,  as 
there  are  no  carriages,  and  the  pedestrian  has  only  to 
make  way  for  the  occasional  rider  on  horseback,  they 
are  broad  enough  for  convenience ;  while  the  closeness 
of  the  dark  walls  to  each  other  makes  a  dim  light  along 
the  pave,  which  is  a  timely  relief  from  the  glare  of  a 
tropical  sun. 

But  I  have  saved  for  a  separate  paragraph  the  men 
tion  of  the  great  charm  and  peculiarity  of  the  capital 
of  this  lovely  island*  It  is  built  on  a  declivity,  at  the 
foot  of  a  range  ot  mountains,  and  a  bright  rivulet  of 


f 

92  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

the  most  sparkling  wafer  courses  rapidly  down  the  centre 
of  every  street.  The  pavements  being  everywhere  ad 
mirable,  and  sloping  toward  the  centre,  and  the  beds 
of  these  sparkling  currents  being  well-laid  flat  stones, 
there  is  no  dirt  except  what  is  thrown  out  from  the 
houses  on  the  way;  and,  with  the  perpetually  swift 
flow  and  the  large  quantity  of  water,  this  carding  off 
of  the  city's  daily  rubbish  is  quite  imperceptible.  It 
is  a  continually  bright  stream,  running  before  every 
door  and  filling  the  town,  night  and  day,  with  its  plea 
sant  music.  The  little  naked  black  children  sit  in  it, 
up  to  the  waist,  and  play.  The  women  come  out  and 
wash  their  dishes  in  it,  or  sit  and  sew  by  its  side  as  by 
a  brook  in  the  country.  The  rider  stops  to  let  his  horse 
drink  at  it.  The  loaded  burthen-carrier,  with  the 
enormous  weight  upon  her  head,  stands  in  it  for  a  min 
ute  or  two,  bathed  up  to  the  knees  and  refreshed  and 
cooled,  without  stoo^ng.  It  is  an  inestimable  bless 
ing  to  the  inhabitants,  and  one  originally  provided  at 
great  enterprise  and  cost.  The  mountain  rivers  are 
brought  down  through  aqueducts  contrived  with  the 
finest  of  engineering  science,  crossing  ravines  and 
rounding  precipices,  and  built  with  a  solidity  which  will 
defy  accident  and  decay.  In  the  present  state,  Marti 
nique  would  be  far  from  undertaking  or  accomplishing 
such  a  work — but  it  was  done  in  davs  when  the  Bim- 


1 

HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS.  93 

plon  was  designed  and  achieved,  and  when  the  colonies 
were  the  California  of  France. 

AVo  were  to  breakfast  at  eleven — the  hungry  hour  in 
these  latitudes — and  we  returned  from  our  long  ram 
ble  to  make  a  preparatory  toilet  in  the  new  quarters 
provided  for  us.  We  found  our  baggage  removed  into 
the  luxurious  bed-room  of  Madame  Stephanie;  and,  af 
ter  the  close  and  unsavory  berths  and  cabins  in  which 
we  had  been,  for  some  weeks,  cribbed  and  confined,  it 
was,  indeed  a  contrast  to  enjoy.  Like  all  French  con 
jugal  sleeping-rooms,  this  was  furnished  with  two  large 
beds,  of  richly-laced  pillows  and  immaculate  curtains 
and  linen.  There  was  a  dressing-room  at  the  side.  The 
mirrors  and  furniture — (for  it  served  the  fair  Creole  as 
both  boudoir  and  bed-room) — were  of  the  most  tasteful 
costliness  and  luxury.  A  library  of  French  books  oc 
cupied  one  corner,  and,  with  wardrobes  and  easy- 
chairs,  and  the  heavy  bronze  coffre-fort,  which,  like 
every  French  wife,  she  kept,  in  her  character  as  family 
Treasurcss,  the  room  was  just  sumptuously  cro wded. 
My  friend  and  I  looked  around  us,  and  while  we  tied 
our  cravats  by  the  broad  mirror,  forgave,  with  all 
our  hearts,  the  disasters  which  had  enlisted  the 
sympathies  of  the  lovely  occupant  we  had  dislodged. 
It  would  not  have  been  impossible,  perhaps,  to  pray 
for  more  annoyances — at  tne  same  rate  ot  compen 
feation. 


f 
94     HEALTH  TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS. 

Of  the  breakfast  which  followed  I  must  try  to  give 
you  a  picture — not  for  its  luxury  merely.  Cookery 
more  exquisite  was  never  tasted  in  Paris — so  exquisite, 
indeed,  that,  if  I  had  not  a  companion  innocent  of  poe 
try,  to  affidavy  to  the  truth  of  my  chronicle,  I  should 
scarce  venture  to  locate  such  a  breakfast  in  an  isle  of 
the  Caribbean  Sea.  The  surroundings  and  accompani 
ments,  however,  belonged  to  the  climate — and  these,  per 
haps  in  contrast  with  the  Parisian  delicacy  of  our  dishes 
may  make  so  sensuous  a  matter  as  a  meal  worthy  of  defi 
nite  description.  The  invalid,  at  least,  (who  may  make 
up  his  mind,  at  my  recommendation,  to  try  Marti 
nique,)  will  thank  me  for  detailing,  with  some  par 
ticularity,  how  his  "  daily  bread "  will  be  ministered 
to  him. 

The  hotel  is  built  round  an  open  court ;  and  our  eat 
ing-room,  on  the  second  story,  faces  the  kitchen — to 
which  messages  are  sent,  not  by  bell  or  servant,  but  by 
a  call  more  or  less  vociferous  from  the  window.  Of 
course,  in  this  clime  of  perpetual  summer,  there  are  no 
sashes  of  glass,  and  this,  like  every  apartment  in  the 
house,  is  open  to  all  the  sounds  of  savory  directions, 
fault-findings,  etc.,  and  to  the  responses  and  conversa 
tion  of  the  chef  de  cuisine  and  his  chattering  menials. 
The  room  itself  is  a  large  hall  with  bare  floor,  and 
without  an  article  of  furniture  in  it,  except  the  chairs 
ana  tables  at  which  wo  eat.  It  is  also  the  passnge-way 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE-TROPICS.  95 

to  the  sleeping-chambers — and  this,  by  the  way,  secures 
to  us  a  polite  bow  from  every  guest  of  the  house  as  he 
passes  to  or  from  his  room,  and,  among  others,  from 
two  very  well-bred  and  well-dressed  black  gentlemen, 
strangers  in  town  like  ourselves,  who  remove  their  hats 
and  give  us  the  "  good  morning  "  or  "  good  evening  " 
with  the  courtesy  of  la  veille  cour.  The  public  cafe  and 
the  large  and  sumptuous  billiard-room  are  on  the  floor 
below ;  and,  of  the  visitors  to  these  resorts,  we  see  no 
thing — our  more  private  salle  a  manger  being  for  the 
guests  of  the  house  exclusively. 

The  small  round  table  set  for  Mr.  G-.  and  myself,  is 
attended  by  two  ragged  and  bare-footed  waiters,  in  only 
shirt  and  pantaloons — one  a  negro,  and  the  other  a 
cross  between  the  Carib  and  the  Spaniard — so  hand 
some  and  so  unconsciously  picturesque  a  fellow,  and, 
withal,  so  proudly  and  fiercely  majestic  in  his  attitudes 
and  demeanor,  that  his  likeness  would  be  worth  preser 
ving,  if  only  as  a  type  of  the  now  nearly  extinct  race 
of  his  mother.  He  seems  to  have  no  beard  except  a 
long  mustache  of  lustreless  and  ashy  black,  which  draws 
lines  of  singular  expressiveness  across  his  oval  and 
leaden-colored  cheek.  His  features  are  of  Spanish  fine 
ness  and  regularity,  his  nostrils  thin  and  open,  and  his 
chin  as  beautifully  moulded  as  Apollo's — while  his  lux 
uriant  flakes  of  massive  straight  hair,  and  the  attitude 
of  ioided  arms  with  which  he  stands,  bending  his  large 


96  HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  never- winking  eyes  upon  us  while  waiting  for  our 
orders,  make  me  feel,  now  and  then,  as  if  the  usurping 
race  were  his  inferior,  after  all,  and  as  if  we  should  be 
waiting  on  him,  not  he  on  us.  I  have  said  almost  as 
much  to  him,  (since  making  the  pencil  memoranda  of 
which  my  letter  is  the  inking  over,)  and  his  only  answer 
was  a  request  to  be  taken  as  a  servant  to  America — a 
proposition  to  which  his  proud  mien  was  even  a  greater 
objection  than  his  speaking  only  the  French  language. 
House,  horse  and  servant  may  easily  look  too  splendid 
for  their  master. 

Our  three  or  four  dishes  of  meats  cooked  with  Paris 
ian  science,  are  flanked  by  the  numberless  vegetable 
novelties  of  the  tropics,  and  followed,  both  at  breakfast 
and  dinner,  by  a  course  of  game — the  wild  birds  of 
these  islands — which  are  truly  of  unsurpasable  flavor. 
Then  comes  a  course  of  fruits,  of  which  this  climate  is 
an  open-air-museum — the  five  kinds  of  banana,  the 
strange  alligator-pear,  pineapples  of  various  kinds,  and 
others  of  which  the  mere  naming  would  only  tantalize 
you — and,  with  these,  the  delicate  wines  whose  true 
gusto  can  only  be  tasted  in  the  air  of  these  latitudes ; 
and  all  followed  by  unsurpassable  French  coffee,  and 
(for  my  friend)  a  cigar.  You  see,  (dear  invalid  reader  ! 
for  I  write  this  with  you  in  my  eye,)  how  your  appe 
tite  (and  consumptive  patients  have  proverbially  good 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS  97 

appetites,)  may  be  coquetted  with,  on  the  lip  of  the 
Equator. 

But  there  is  still  an  unnamed  luxury — one  1  nave 
not  found  added  to  a  breakfast  in  any  other  climate, 
and  which  I  suppose,  therefore,  to  be  indigenous  to  lat 
itude  14.40 — the  society  and  kind  attentions  of  a  charm 
ing  hostess,  during  the  meal.  With  the  removal  of  the 
covers  'by  Fedzee  the  Carib,  the  indolently  graceful 

figure  of  Madame   Stephanie  sails  into  the  room,  and 

i 
giving  us  the  "  bon  jour"  with  a  smile  and  a  bouquet 

she  has  brought  from  the  market,  she  lounges  into  the 
vacant  chair  at  the  side  of  the  table,  and  gives  us  a 
carte — (spoken  instead  of  written)  of  the  delicacies  be 
fore  us.  She  tells  us  what  to  eat  first,  and  with  what 
vegetables  to  accompany  fish,  flesh  or  game — watches 
which  we  prefer,  so  as  carefully  to  repeat  our  prefer- 
once  at  another  meal — comments  on  our  taste  with  the 
naive  simplicity  of  a  child — frankly  questions  us  of  our 
country's  habits,  our  families,  and  our  professions — 
gives  us  the  gossip  of  the  island,  tells  us  what  shops  to 
visit,  describes  the  fashions,  directs  our  walks  and  rides, 
inquires  into  our  health,  sleep,  and  comfort,  as  (it  seems 
to  me)  only  the  French  can — and  all  this  with  a  careless 
and  queenly  supremacy  of  unconsciousness,  wThich  seems 
to  me  as  tropical  as  a  palm-tree,  and  quite  as  prodigally 
beautiful.  Our  breakfast  and  dinners,  (for  I  write  this 


HEALTH  TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS. 

after  nearly  a  week's  enjoyment  of  them,)  have  invaria 
bly  had  this  added  luxury — each   meal   occupying  at 
least  two  hours,  and  the  plump  and  fair  Creole's  vivaci 
ty  never  flagging  during  these  long  sessions,  and  charm 
ing  them  away  like   minutes.      She  rises  courteously, 
now  and  then,  to  change  a  plate  for  us,  or  give  us  a 
glass  for  some  choice  wine  sent  up  by  her  husband,  or 
to  sail  over  to  the  window  and  call  out  to  the  cook  for 
some  luxury  new  thought  of;  but,  for,  the  most  of  the 
time,  with  her  elbow  upon  the  table,  and  her  heavily 
turbaned  head  supported  on  her  plump  hand,  she  chats 
and  lounges,  laughs  and  exchanges  compliments,  as  if 
there  were  no  other  world  than  that  small  table,  and 
nothing  to  be  thought  of  except  that  hour's  happiness. 
Whether  the  other  hotels  of  St.  Pierre  have  the  same 
dainty  addition  to  their  entertainment,  or  whether,  as 
rare  travellers  from  a  country  with  which  France  has  a 
sympathy,  we  were  treated   as  privileged    strangers,  1 
have  no  means   of  positively  deciding — but,  if  you  go 
ever  to  Martinique,  inquire  for  the  "  Hotel  des  Bains," 
and  commit  yourself  to   the  petit  soins,   kind  and  be 
witching,  of  Madame  Stephanie  Eoque.     Of  Monsieur, 
her  husband,  you  will  see  less — but  he  is  a  high-bred 
gentleman,  who  has  taken  to  hotel-keeping  after  losing 
a  fortune,   and  he  is  quite  as  watchful  and  compliment 
ary  in  looking  to  your  comfort,  in  his  way. 


HEALTH  TRIP  TO  THE   TROPICS.     99 

And  so,  having  introduced  you  to  our  host  and  host 
ess,  and  shown  you  how  we  live,  you  will  please  re- 
member  it  as  the  accompaniment  to  what  I  have  yet  to 
record  of  our  daily  experiences.  Yours,  etc. 


LETTER   No.  12. 


PULL  INK,  INSENSIBLE  TO  CLIMATE POETRY  DESCRIPTIVE  OF 

TROPICAL    DELICIOUSNESS TOM    MOORE    A     CUSTOM-HOUSE 

OFFICER  ON  THE  ISLAND  WHICH  WAS  THE  SCENE  OF    "  THE 

TEMPEST" — DIFFICULTY  OF  REALIZING  ARIEL  AND  MIRAN 
DA,  AT  "  MRS.  TUCKER'S  TAVERN" — HORSEBACK  RIDE  IN 

THE  SUBURBS  OF  ST.  PIERRE,  MARTINIQUE GARDEN  OF 

PLANTS PRECIPICES    WITH     BEARDS AIR     PLANTS    AND 

THF.IR  HUMAN  COUNTERPART YOUNG  LADIES  ON  HORSE 
BACK  WITH  A  NEGRO  FOOTMAN,  ON  FOOT,  CARRYING  THEIR 

PARASOLS DESCRIPTION  OF  MARTINIQUE  COUNTRY-HOUSES 

TROPICAL  HABITS  OF  LADIES  AND  GENTLEMEN CLIMATE 

RENDERING  COMFORT  UNNECESSARY SCIENCE  OF  COMFORT 

A  RESULT  OF  NORTHERN  LACK  OF  PLEASURE  OUT  OF  DOORS 

QUESTION  AS  TO  THE  COMPARATIVE  RESULTS  OF  CLIMATE 

CHARMING  INCIDENT  OF  CREOLE  HOSPITALITY YANKEE 

LUMBER-YARD MADAME  STEPHANIE'S  KIND  INFLUENCE 

CHATEAU  PERRINEL NEGRO  SOLDIERS  AND  THEIR  VARIA 
TIONS  FROM  WHITE  SOLDIERS,  BEFORE  AND  BEHIND USE 
FUL  FACT  FOR  GENERAL  MORRIS,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Martinique,  April,   1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  wish  that  the  ink  with  which  I  write  could  make  a 
distinction  or  two  as  to  the  atmosphere  in  which  it  ful 
fils  its  destiny — for,  surely,  never  was  ink  dried  upon 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  101 

paper  by  summer  air  so  delicious,  and  never  did  I  so 
long  for  the  ink  to  daguerreotype  to  you  the  balm  in 
which  the  poor  thoughts  it  brings  were  afloat  when  in 
veigled  into  it.  Really  you  must  come  here  to  know 
how  much  happiness  may  be  taken  in  at  pores  and  nos 
trils.  Bring  but  some  life,  done  up  in  one-day  parcels, 
or  a  little  opiate  in  your  pocket,  that  will  enable  you  to 
forget  the  Past  and  the  Future,  and  I  will  warrant  you, 
at  Martinique,  the  bliss  of  Paradise  in  breathing  only. 
Before  resuming  my  memoranda,  let  me  refresh  your 
memory  with  the  way  in  which  two  poets  have  written 
about  the  kind  of  luxury  I  am  enjoying  : — 


"  The  laggard  Spring  which  but  salutes  us  here, 
Inhabits  there  and  courts  them  all  the  year  ; 
Kipe  fruits  and  blossoms  on  the  same  trees  live, 
At  once  they  promise  what  at  once  they  give. 
So  sweet  the  air  so  moderate  the  clime 
None  sickly  lives,  or  dies  before  his  time. 
Heaven  sure  has  kept  this  spot  of  earth  uncursed, 
To  show  how  all  things  were  created  first  " 


So  wrote  Waller,  in  his  "  Battle  of  the  Summer 
Islands;"  and  Tom  Moore  (who,  you  will  remember, 
was  English  custom-house  officer  on  the  island  where 
Caliban  served  Prospero,  and  who,  thus — strange  con 
trast  of  use  for  the  same  scene  by  two  poets — went  to 
the  "  vexed  Bermoothes"  to  prevent  smuggling,  as 
Shakspeare's  imagination  went  there  to  create  Miranda 


102         HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE    TROPICS. 

and  the  "  delicate  Ariel")  sings  thus  of  what  he  found 
in  the  scene  of  "  The  Tempest :  " 

"  The  morn  was  lovely,  every  wave  was  still, 
When  the  first  perfume  of  a  cedar-hill 
Sweetly  awaked  us,  and,  with  smiling  charms, 
The  fairy  harbor  wooed  us  to  its  arms 
Gently  we  stole,  before  the  languid  wind, 
Through  plantain-shades,  that  like  an  awning  twined 
And  kissed  on  either  side  the  wanton  sails, 
Breathing  our  welcome  to  these  vernal  vales  ; 
While,  far  reflected  o'er  the  waves  serene, 
Each  wooded  island  shed  so  soft  a  green, 
That  the  enamored  keel,  with  whispering  play, 
Through  liquid  herbage  seemed  to  steal  its  way  " 

I  may  as  well  confess,  however,  that,  when  at  Mrs. 
Tucker's  tavern,  on  that  same  island  of  Bermuda,  a 
week  or  two  ago,  I  did  riot  very  distinctly  realize  that 
it  was  the  spot  from  which  Ariel  started  to  "  put  a 
girdle  round  the  earth  in  forty  minutes  ;"  nor  did  I  re 
member  that  Moore  had  written  so  beautiful  of  the 
waters  that  wrecked  the  lover  of  Miranda.  The  imag 
ination  must  have  its  "  distance,"  I  find,  to  "  lend  en 
chantment  to  the  view,"  even  of  a  scene  in  Shakspeare. 

But  to  my  diary  : — 

We  started  this  morning,  on  horseback,  to  get  a  sun 
rise  view  of  the  four  or  five  miles  of  country-seats  on 
the  north  side  of  the  city.  From  the  streets,  the  road 
opens  directly  up  a  ravine  of  the  most  romantic  beauty, 
tracking  the  course  of  a  river  which  has  the  curious 
name  of  "  Madame."  The  city  being  supplied  with 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          103 

water  by  Madame  and  her  sisters  of  the  mountain,  the 
massive  architecture  of  the  aqueducts  and  bridges,  and 
of  the  roads  which  round  the  precipices  upon  the  sides, 
are  in  strong  contrast  with  the  wildness  of  the  scene ; 
and  indeed,  it  is  this  which  makes  its  most  prominent 
impression.  It  is  the  prodigal  and  untrimmed  luxuri 
ance  of  a  new  country  with  the  solid  and  venerable  con 
veniences  of  the  old.  One  other  feature  I  will  add,  in 
the  way  of  general  portraiture : — the  vegetation  for 
which  the  air  alone  is  sufficient,  and  which  clothes  the 
faces  of  precipices  with  vines,  creepers,  mosses  and 
tendrils,  in  a  way  wholly  unknown  in  other  climates. 
The  rocks  have  bare  faces  or  chins.  They  are  all  beard 
ed  with  verdure.  And  so  are  the  caves  below.  Nak 
edness  there  is  none.  I  regret  that  I  have  no  book  of 
reference  at  hand,  to  inform  myself  better  of  this  family 
of  plants  for  which  the  rich  atmosphere  of  the  Tropics 
is  soil  enough — but  you  will  look  them  up,  for  yourself, 
in  any  dictionary  of  flowers.  See,  also,  if  you  please, 
whether  there  is  not  a  correspondent  class  in  the  human 
family.  I  have  a  vague  instinct  that  living  on  air  and 
being  ornamental  only,  was  the  original  destiny  of  some 
men,  as  of  some  plants. 

About  a  mile  out  of  town,  on  this  road,  we  stopped 
to  visit  a  public  Garden  of  Plants,  laid  out  originally 
with  royal  magnificence  among  the  terraces  and  preci 
pices  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  accumulation  of 


104         HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

wonderful  trees,  (for  which  no  glass  roofs  were  needed,) 
must  have  been  made  with  large  cost  as  well  as  direct 
ed  by  twste  and  science ;  but  it  is  now  a  somewhat  neg 
lected  garden — everything  luxuriantly  overgrown,  and 
the  effect  of  the  gorgeous  flowers,  on  the  untrirnmed 
limbs  of  huge  trees,  more  hay  stack-y  than  tasteful.  The 
eye  refuses  to  take  in  so  much  brilliant  magnificence  at 
one  time.  It  is  a  wilderness  of  labyrinthine  shades, 
where  you  are  shaded  more  by  trees  of  flowers  than  by 
trees  of  leaves — Nature  overdrest — a  surfeit  of  beauty. 
The  country-houses,  for  the  three  or  four  mile  that 
we  followed  the  road,  are  as  near  together  as  spacious 
grounds  will  permit,  and  "they  seem  built  for  a  world 
where  there  is  no  suspicion,  nobody  to  shut  out,  no  re 
serve,  and  little  or  no  privacy.  I  presume  we  saw  every 
member  of  every  household  we  passed.  The  fences  are 
very  ornamental,  but  quite  open,  and  there  is  no  vine 
or  shrubbery  between  house  and  road.  The  hio-h  fo- 

tf  O 

liage  of  tall  trees  is  like  a  portico,  under  which  we  look 
ed,  with  no  obstruction  except  their  trunks,  like  pillars 
far  apart.  The  houses  themselves  are  mostly  of  one 
story,  with  high  and  spacious  apartments,  and  the  win 
dows  are  so  large  and  partitions  inside  so  few,  that  we 
could  see  through  them  as  through  bird  cao-es.  The 
ladies  were  walking  about  in  loose  neglige,  some  with 
cups  of  coffee  in  tlreir  hands,  some  feeding  the  chickens 
and  turkeys,  (which,  here,  are  admitted  into  good  so- 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS.          105 

ciety,  rank  as  pets,  and  walk  in  front  of  the  house  or 
where  they  please,)  and  some  leaning  indolently  over 
balustrades,  talking  to  the  negroes  or  watching  the 
pranks  of  naked  black  children — but  it  so  happened  that 
we  saw  not  one  with  a  book  in  her  hand.  The  gentle 
men  of  almost  every  house  seemed  to  be  lounging  on 
easy  chairs  under  the  portico,  reading  the  newspapers. 
From  the  difficulty  of  raising  or  preserving  grass  in 
these  latitudes,  the  grounds  about  the  houses  are  very 
bare,  except  where  rich  flowers  are  cultivated,  and  this 
is  in  unpleasant  contrast  with  the  sumptuousness  of  the 
wooden  architecture,  the  fence-posts  crowned  with  vases, 
the  gaudy  colors  and  general  air  of  magnificence  only. 
Of  comfort  there  is  no  sign — the  climate  doubtless  render 
ing  it  unnecessary.  How  much  the  English,  (by  the 
way,)  owe,  of  their  perfection  in  comfort,  to  the  com 
pulsion  of  climate  •  and  how  much  of  the  Northern  taste 
for  privacy,  unpromisouousness  and  hedge-about-iness,  is 
an  unnatural  and  fastidious  growth  of  excessive  in  door 
life,  are  questions  that  occur  to  one,  in  looking  at  these 
people.  To  feel  nobody's  eye,  and  be  as  unconscious 
of  observation  as  a  bird,  seems  to  be  a  universal  result 
of  the  Southern  habits  ;  as,  to  be  nervously  exclusive 
and  social  only  by  effort,  seems  a  result  of  the  Northern. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  dinner-table  topic,  as  it  stands — and 
so  I  leave  it. 

As  the  sugar-cane  fields  began  to  appear,  and  the 


106         HEALTH      TRIP     TO      THE      TROPICS. 

road  grew  mountainous,  we  turned  our  horses'  heads 
— meeting,  at  the  moment,  two  young  ladies  of  very 
marked  style,  and  faces  very  sweet  though  plain,  riding 
on  horseback  without  bonnets,  but  with  a  black  ser 
vant,  on  foot,  carrying  their  two  parasols.  Their  po 
nies  were  on  an  easy  pace,  and  the  servant  on  a  slow 
trot.  This  barefooted  and  literal  /octfman,  in  unembar 
rassed  shirt  and  trousers,  was  rather  a  variation  from  a 
London  footman  with  gold  lace  and  cocked  hat — but  it 
was  a  fair  exponent  of  the  habitual  laisser  aller  of  the 
Creole. 

I  must  incorporate,  into  this  mention  of  the  suburbs 
of  St.  Pierre,  an  incident  which  occurred  to  us  on  the 
other  side  of  the  city,  and  which  will  illustrate  the  kind 
manners  of  these  unceremonious  dwellers  in  the  coun 
try.  Mr.  G.  and  myself  had  mounted  the  high  hill 
which  overlooks  the  Bay,  shutting  in  the  town  on  the 
southern  side,  but  found  it  difficult  to  get  a  view  with 
out  encroaching  upon  the  private  grounds  of  the  beautiful 
villas  which  edge  the  declivity.  •  Seeing  a  gate  tempt 
ingly  open,  however,  and  which  led  to  a  terrace  over 
hanging  a  bold  precipice  we  had  walked  under,  we  ven 
tured  in.  The  blinds  of  the  house  were  closed,  as  it 
was  still  the  lingering  hour  of  the  siesta ;  but  a  seat 
stood  invitingly  before  us,  and  upon  this  we  made  our 
selves  comfortable,  supposing  we  had  done  so  unobserv. 
ed.  The  city  lay  at  a  biscuit-toss  beneath  us,  the  bar- 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.  107 

bor  spread  away  before,  and  the  verdure-laden  moun 
tains  rose  in  grand  magnificence  beyond  ;  and  we  were 
giving  our  eyes  their  first  cursory  feast  upon  all  this, 
when  there  was  a  rattle  of  opening  shutters  in  the  house 
behind.  A  barefooted  negress  was  at  our  elbow  the 
next  moment,  with  the  compliments  of  Madame  and  a 
request  that  we  would  walk  in.  Thinking  that  we 
might  have  been  mistaken  for  authorized  visiters,  I  ex 
plained  that  we  were  only  intruders,  desirous  of  getting 
a  view  from  the  terrace,  and  charged  the  servant  with 
our  apology  and  a  hope  that  we  should  not  give  the 
lady  of  the  house  any  trouble.  We  rose  to  go,  with 
this,  but,  upon  the  portico  before  us,  stood  a  tall  and 
slight  lady,  of  a  manner  of  very  high-bred  repose  and 
easy  self-possession,  who  repeated  the  invitation  with  a 
graciousness  it  was  impossible  to  decline.  We  followed 
her  into  a  large  drawing-room  furnished  with  French 
elegance  and  luxuriousness,  and  after  enlightening  her 
as  to  our  country  and  our  purpose  of  travel,  conversa 
tion  turned  upon  general  topics,  and  a  half  hour  passed 
away  very  delightfully.  Two  lovely  children  bounded 
in,  after  a  while,  giving  me  an  opportunity  of  describ 
ing  those  I  had  left  at  home,  and.  with  these  more  per 
sonal  topics,  we  were  soon  as  well  acquainted,  at  least, 
as  a  letter  of  introduction  would  have  made  us.  The 
mingled  ease  and  dignity  of  our  fair  entertainer  impress 
ed  rny  friend  as  well  as  myself  very  strongly.  It  was 


108          HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

the  French  courtliness  with  the  Creole*  abandonment  to 
indolent  grace.  The  setting-  sun  was  throwing  its  yel 
low  rays  into  the  room  when  we  rose  to  go,  but  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  we  resisted  a  pressing  invitation  to 
remain  to  dinner,  or  to  take  wine  or  some  refreshment 
before  leaving.  A  request  that  we  would  repeat  our 
visit,  and  a  profusion  of  compliments  in  return  for  our 
expressions  of  grateful  pleasure,  sent  us  on  our  way  with 
renewed  wonder  upon  what  planet  of  umvorldliness  we 
had  dropped — a  feeling  which  every  new  change  of  our 
Martinique  experience  seems  but  to  confirm  and  bright 
en.  Try  and  see  the  French  under  a  tropical  sun,  be 
fore  you  die,  my  dear  Morris  ! 

By  way  of  respect  to  our  nativity,  Mr.  G.  proposed 
a  walk  to  the  American  wharf — the  lumberyard  of  St. 
Pierre,  off  which  was  lying  a  down-easter  at  anchor. 
As  we  had  heard  no  English  spoken  since  we  landed, 
we  had  some  hope  of  falling  in  with  the  skipper — but  in 


*  Thiers  (whose  works  I  find  in  Madame  Stephanie's  library) 
describes  the  Creole,  in  his  portraiture  of  the  Empress  Josephine  : 
— "  Josephine  etait  Creole  de  naissance,  et  avait  toutes  les  graces, 
tons  les  defaults  ordinaires  aux  femmes  de  cette  origine.  Bonne, 
prodigue  et  frivole,  point  belie  mais  parfaitement  elegante,  douee 
d  un  charme  infine,  elle  savait  plaire  beaucoup  plus  que  des  fem 
mes,  qui  lui  etaient  superieure  en  esprit  et  en  beaute." 

Josephine  s  mother,  I  find,  remained  in  Martinique,  and  still 
lived  in  St.  Pierre  when  Napoleon  was  made  Emperor.  The  Go 
vernor  of  the  island  gave  a  grand  illumination  and  ball,  on  the 
occasion,  at  which  the  old  lady  was,  of  course,  the  lioness.  There 
are  still  relatives  ot  the  family  here,  and  the  present  harbor-mas 
ter  is  oae.  The  family  name  was  Tascher  de  la  Pagerie. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  109 

this  we  were  disappointed.  The  planks  and  boards 
smelt  saw-mill-y  and  looked  like  a  Sunday  walk  oppo 
site  Hoboken.  So  far  was  our  patriotism  refreshed — 
and  no  farther.  This  had  led  us  to  a  part  of  the  town 
we  had  not  before  visited,  however,  and  we  kept  on  to 
see  what  a  large  building,  in  the  distance,  might  be.  It 
had  a  spacious  court-yard,  filled  with  officials,  and,  while 
we  stood  looking  in — waiting  to  ask  a  question  of  some 
communicative-looking  man — our  good  genius,  Madame 
Stephanie,  suddenly  stood  behind  us.  She  was  just 
from  the  market,  near  by,  and  her  hands  were  full  of 
flowers  as  her  heart  was  full  of  kindness.  In  a  moment 
she  had  called  one  of  the  custom-house  officers  to  her, 
an  acquaintance  of  her  own,  who  seemed  only  too  de 
lighted  to  do  anything  to  serve  her,  and  we  were  shown, 
with  every  honor  and  respect,  over  the  public  store 
house  that  it  was — but  this  was  not  what  I  set  out  to 
describe. 

In  the  course  of  the  conversation  a  neighboring  cha 
teau  was  mentioned,  which  was  an  object  of  interest  to 
strangers,  and  which  we  had  not  yet  visited,  and  Ma 
dame  Stephanie's  recommendation  availed  us  to  have 
one  of  the  public  offices  locked  up  while  the  polite  in 
cumbent  went  with  us  in  quality  of  cicerone.  Passing 
a  very  beautiful  cemetery,  (whose  every  grave  was  in 
the  midst  of  its  little  flower  garden  watchfully  tended,) 
we  crossed  one  of  the  city  fortifications,  and  arrived  at 


110         HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS. 

a  chateau  built  on  the  high  bank  of  the  river  Madame, 
at  the  point  of  its  junction  with  the  sea.  This  was  a 
costly  site,  with  its  great  natural  beauty  and  its  close 
neighborhood  to  the  city,  but  its  structure  and  its 
grounds  were  originally  of  a  grandeur  and  magnificence 
quite  royal.  The  massive  stone  building  with  its  stately 
wings,  and  the  gardens  with  their  statues  and  artificial 
lakes,  summer-houses  and  innumerable  walks,  are  still 
untouched — save  by  time.  It  is  still  in  the  hands  of 
the  family  who  erected  and  kept  it  up — that  of  the  Mar 
quis  de  Perrinel.  The  present  lord  of  it,  however,  is 
high  in  office  in  Paris,  under  Louis  Napoleon,  and  the 
family  estate,  though  still  held,  seems  almost  forgotten. 
M.  Perrinel's  eldest  son  had  arrived,  on  a  visit,  a  few 
days  before,  and  the  old  gray-haired  negro  domestic  who 
was  showing  us  the  portraits  of  the  family  and  the  re 
mains  of  their  magnificence  in  furniture,  etc.,  took  us  in 
to  a  large  room  where  the  table  was  laid  for  his  break 
fast.  He  must  look  around  with  a  melancholy  feeling 
— the  roof  of  so  much  past  grandeur  over  his  head 
which  he  has  no  longer  the  fortune  to  sustain.  We 
were  told  by  our  courteous  conductor  that  the  hospi 
tality  of  the  chateau,  and  the  beauty  and  accomplish 
ments  of  the  family,  were  famous  and  proverbial  for 
many  generations.  So  burn  out  the  bright  lights  of 
worldly  splendor  !  But  I  should  like,  for  one,  to  refill, 
trim,  and  sustain  some  of  them,  still  burning  on,  to  be 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          Ill 

admired.  We  live  in  an  age  of  making  all  lamps  alike 
comfortably  dull. 

On  our  return  home,  we  passed  a  sergeant  with  a  re 
lief  guard,  and  two  of  his  soldiers  were  black.  They 
enlist  here  without  reference  to  color — but  it  rather 
spoils  the  unijorm-\iy  of  the  uniform.  I  dare  say  they 
would  fight  as  well,  and  have  just  as  much  right  to  en 
rollment  among  the  "  un-named  demigods1'  as  any  whiter 
soldiers  who  die  on  the  field  of  battle,  for  their  country 
or  a  shilling  a  day.  The  large  development,  which  is 
one  of  the  differences  of  the  negro  form,  made  the  car- 
touch-boxes  rather  stick  out  behind,  but,  in  other  re 
spects,  they  were  better  built  and  more  military-looking 
than  the  other  soldiers. 

And  with  this  military  item,  which  you  may  some 
day  have  occasion  to  use  in  the  way  of  your  command, 
my  dear  Ger.eral,  I  think  I  may  gracefully  close.  So 
adieu. 


LETTER   No,  18, 


INTRODUCTION  TO  A  BLACK  BELLE  WHO  "  GOES  INTO  SOCIETY  " 

IN    MARTINIQUE REASON    WHY    SHE    HAS   NO    SURNAME 

NEGRO  PASSION  FOR  CHANGING  THEIR  NAMES MADE 
MOISELLE  JULIETTE  THE  FRIEND  OF  OUR  HOSTESS DE 
SCRIPTION  OF  HER  COLORED  BEAUTY THE  SPLENDID  GOLD 

ORNAMENTS  PECULIAR  TO  THE  MARTINIQUE  NEGRESSES, 
CINQ-CLOUS  EAR-RINGS,  ETC. THE  DARK  BELLE5S  RECEP 
TION  OF  US HER  MANNERS HER  LOVE  OF  FUN,  AND  HER 

AMUSEMENT  AT  THE  NEW-YORK  DISTINCTIONS  OF  PRO 
PRIETY EXCHANGE  OP  KEEPSAKES  WITH  HER,  AND  ADIEU 

COMPARATIVE    SOCIAL  POSITION  OF  BLACKS  AND  WHITES 

ON    THE    ISLAND DISTINCTIONS  OF  COLOR    GIVING  WAY 

BOTH  COLORS  ALIKE  INVITED  TO  THE  BALLS  AND  FESTIVITIES 
OF  FORT  ROYAL,  THE  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT MORE  RE 
LUCTANT  AMALGAMATION  AT  ST.  PIERRE,  THE  LARGE  CAPI 
TAL SOCIETY  CHECKED  BY  NEGRO  HOSTILITY  AT  THIS 

ADMISSION  OF  BLACK  FEMALE  PUPILS  TO  THE  ARISTOCRATIC 
SCHOOL  OF  THE  CONVENT CURIOUS  SCANDAL  AND  ITS  RE 
SULT MONS.  BISSETTI,  THE  COLORED  REPRESENTATIVE, 

AND  HIS  HISTORY THE  NEGRO  LOVE  OF  CHANGE LAW  TO 

CHECK    HIS    FICKLENESS HIS    PASSION    FOR    WIVES    AWAY 

FROM  HOME INTERESTING  EXTRACTS  ON  NEGRO  CHARAC 
TER,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Martinique,  April,   1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  will  commence  my  letter,  I  believe,  with  introdu 
cing  you  to  a  belle  of  a  new  color — my  Hon.  friend  and 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          113 

myself  having  just  been  presented  to  a  jet-black  young 
lady,  who  is  "  in  the  best  of  society  "  of  Fort  Royal, 
(the  seat  of  Government,  twenty  miles  from  here)  and 
who  is  said  to  be  more  admired,  by  the  French  officers 
tationed  there,  than  any  other  lady  on  their  visiting 
list.  Of  that  city  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  Made 
moiselle  Juliette  Celestine,  we  were  assured,  is  quite  the 
fashionable  young  lady  most  attended  to. 

I  do  not  give  you,  (you  observe,)  the  patronymic  or 
surname,  of  Mademoiselle  Juliette.  As  far  as  I  could 
make  it  out,  she  has  none — and  upon  this  point  I  was  a 
little  troubled,  till  I  recalled  an  explanation  of  it  in 
Breen's  work  on  these  islands.  He  states  it  as  a  pecu 
liarity  of  the  negro  race,  that  they  refuse  to  be  enslaved 
to  any  particular  name.  Let  me  quote  the  conclusion 
of  his  remarks  on  the  subject : — 

"  Nor  is  this  corruption  of  the  language  (by  the  ne 
groes)  confined  to  mere  words  :  it  extends  also  to  pro 
per  names;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  there  are  few  per 
sons  on  the  island  that  are  not  designated  by  any  name 
but  their  own.  Some  have  the  sobriquet  of  Moncoq, 
Montout,  Fanfax,  Laquerre.  Others  have  their  names 
mollified  by  means  of  certain  dulcet,  endearing  termina 
tions  :  thus  Anne  becomes  Anzie  ;  Catherine  Caticke  : 
Bessie  Bessonnete ;  whilst  the  greatest  number,  drop 
ping  altogether  the  names  given  them  at  the  baptismal 
font,  have  adopted  others  of  more  modern  vogue.  Jean 
Baptiste  is  supplanted  by  Nelson  ;  Francois,  by  Fran 
cis  ;  Cyprien,  by  Camille  •  and,  what  is  still  more  pre 
posterous,  not  only  are  the  Christian  names  altered  in 
this  way,  but  the  patronymics  of  many  are  entirely  sup- 


114         HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE    TROPIOS. 

pressed.  Monsieur  Jean  Marie  Beauregard  considers 
Jean  Marie  too  vulgar,  and  adopts  the  name  of  Alfred ; 
and  his  friends  consider  Beauregard  too  long,  and  omit 
it  altogether  in  their  dealings  with  him.  By  this  pro 
cess,  M.  Jean  Marie  Beauregard  is  metamorphosed  into 
plain  M.  Alfred  :  and  his  wife,  if  he  have  any,  goes  by 
the  style  and  title  of  Madame  Alfred.  This  confusion 
of  names  would  be  merely  ludicrous,  if  it  were  not 
pregnant  with  mischief  to  the  community.  From  be- 
ino;  first  sanctioned  in  the  intercourse  of  every  day  life, 
and  introduced  into  family  circles,  the  alterations  and 
substitutions  had  gradually  crept  into  the  more  serious 
relations  of  trade  and  litigation  ;  so  that,  when  the  Com 
missioners  of  Compensation  were  about  to  adjudicate 
upon  the  claims  and  counter-claims  from  St.  Lucia,  (the 
neighboring  island,)  scarcely  a  single  individual  was 
found  to  have  preserved  his  proper  name  in  the  different 
documents  submitted  on  his  behalf.  Difficulty  and  de 
lay  were  the  result;  and  many  persons  only  succeeded 
in  establishing  their  identity  and  securing  their  proper 
ty,  by  obtaining  affidavits,  certificates  of  baptism,  and 
notarial  attestations,  at  considerable  expense." 

Mademoiselle  Juliette  Celestine,  (whose  name  is  enti 
tled  to  your  respect,  with  this  explanation,)  is  an  inti 
mate  friend  of  our  fair  hostess,  and  it  was  to  this  happy 
chance  that  we  owed  the  privilege  of  a  presentation  to 
her.  She  was  in  town  for  a  few  days,  and  had  called, 
yesterday;  and,  on  Madame'  Stephanie's  mentioning, 
this  morning  at  breakfast,  that  she  was  to  call  again  to 
day,  we  so  expressed  ourselves  as  to  be  sent  for  on  her 
arrival. 

Mile.  Juliette  is  of  the  blood  that  does  not  thin  with 
the  climate,  as  do  the  whites.  She  is  about  nineteen, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          115 

and  as  plump  as  Hebe — her  original  model  from  Nature 
apparently  just  perfected.  Her  skin,  though  as  black  a 
one  as  I  ever  saw,  is  fine-grained  and  lustrous,  and  her 
shoulders,  (there  was  no  denying,)  quite  beautiful.  The 
gorgeous-colored  Madras  turban  covered  her  forehead 
to  the  eyebrows,  and,  with  a  long  sweep  of  twisted  fold 
over  the  cheek,  concealed  the  hair — the  lace  hem  of  her 
snowy  chemise  being  the  next  downward  interruption 
to  the  lines  of  rounded  ebony.  Her  features  are  strict 
ly  African — the  lips  full,  and  the  nose  of  that  degree 
of  flatness  which  is  only  affectionate,  and  which  I  take 
to  be  the  highest  expression  of  this  shape  in  contradis 
tinction  to  the  more  repelling  aquiline.  Her  eyes 
would  have  been  beautiful  if  there  had  been  anything 
white  in  the  neighborhood  with  which  to  contrast  them 
— but  black  eyes  on  so  black  a  ground  wrere  "  coals  to 
Newcastle."  They  had  one  fine  quality,  however;  they 
had  never  been  contracted  with  a  suspicion,  or  a  with 
drawal  of  confidence,  or  an  attempt  to  understand  any 
thing  that  did  not  speak  for  itself;  and  they  \vere,  con 
sequently,  as  tranquilly  open  as  the  cups  of  two  water- 
lilies.  Her  smile  was  of  the  same  never-startled  confid- 
ingness — coming  and  going  with  the  ease  of  a  shadow — 
and  her  teeth  were  only  too  white  and  perfect  for  any 
piquancy  of  expression.  No  jeweller  could  have  cut 
them  more  evenly  out  of  pearl.  Her  little  fat  black 
hands  were  daintily  tapered,  and  looked  lady-like.  She 


116          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

wore  large  rings,  and  these,  with  her  heaps  of  gold 
chains  and  the  enormous  gold  ear-rings,  which  they  call 
cinq-clous,  made  a  sort  of  barbaric  glitter,  with  her  live 
ly  gestures  and  expressive  motions  of  the  head,  which 
seemed  to  me  very  picturesque.  I  was  pleased,  by  the 
way,  with  the  consistency  with  which  she  adhered  to 
the  dress  and  ornaments  exclusively  worn  by  those  of 
her  own  color.  The  cinq-clous  ear-rings,  particularly— 
masses  of  solid  gold,  resembling  five  small  kegs  welded 
together  by  the  sides — are  seen  in  every  respectable 
black  ear,  never  in  a  white  one.  It  would  have  been 
natural  and  reasonable  for  her,  considering  her  means 
and  social  position,  to  have  graced  her  beauty  with 
some  of  the  French  fashions,  abundantly  within  reach 
and  worn  by  the  Creole  ladies  with  whom  she  asso 
ciates. 

Mademoiselle  Juliette's  reception  of  us  was  politely 
cordial  and  entirely  without  embarrassment.  It  seemed 
odd  to  us,  at  first,  to  hear  the  French,  which  we  con 
sider  an  accomplishment,  come  so  fluently  and  elegantly 
from  a  mouth  of  that  color,  but  it  heightened  the  nov 
elty  and  charm  of  her  impression.  After  a  little  talk 
upon  climates,  conversation  turned  upon  the  usages  of 
our  ladies,  and  the  differences  of  etiquette  in  our  differ 
ent  countries,  and  she  laughed  immoderately  at  some 
of  the  American  distinctions  between  propriety  and  im 
propriety  in  female  manners.  Love  of  fun  seemed  to 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS.          117 

be  her  uppermost  quality,  and  her  own  views  and  no 
tions,  though  entirely  modest  and  delicate,  were  a  sin 
gular  mixture  of  frankness  and  droll  mockery.  I  could 
easily  see  how  the  French  officers  at  Fort  Royal  might 
find  a  constant  pleasure  in  her  society.  Our  visit  ended 
with  an  examination  of  her  monstrous  ear-rings,  (for 
which  she  held  her  cheek  towards  us  with  the  simplicity 
of  a  child,)  and,  with  an  exchange  of  souvenirs  between 
her  and  myself — I  giving  her  my  watch-guard,  and  she 
giving  me  two  berries  of  the  acajou  tree,  which  she  car 
ried  as  charms  in  her  pocket.  My  friend  and  I  agreed 
that  we  had  made  a  charming  call,  and  that  Mademoi 
selle  Juliette  Celestine  was  a  memorable  addition  (of  a 
new  color)  to  our  acquaintance. 

I  have  made  many  inquiries  as  to  the  comparative  so 
cial  position  of  the  blacks  and  whites  on  the  island. 
The  distinctions  of  color  are  fast  giving  way.  The 
French,  as  we  know  by  our  Indian  history,  amalga 
mate  more  easily  than  any  other  nation,  with  whatever 
race  they  fall  among,  and  there  are  families  of  blacks 
who  have  the  entire  freedom  of  all  the  best  society  of 
Martinique.  There  is  a  difference,  however,  in  this  re 
spect,  between  the  large  commercial  and  fashionable 
capital  of  St.  Pierre,  and  the  smaller  town  of  Fort 
.Royal,  which  is  the  seat  of  Government.  The  official 
orders  are,  to -allow  no  distinctions  to  be  made;  and 
the  Governor's  balls  and  parties,  and  those  of  the  offi 


118          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

cers  and  civil  functionaries,  are  attended  as  numerously 
by  blacks  as  by  whites.  In  St.  Pierre,  there  is  still  a 
reluctance  to  admit  colored  persons  into  society;  and 
the  discontent  which  this  creates  has  almost  put  a  stop 
to  the  gayeties  of  the  town.  If  an  exclusively  white 
party  is  given,  the  blacks  of  the  lower  orders  collect 
around  the  doors  and  make  such  disturbances  as  effectu 
ally  to  interrupt  the  pleasure  of  the  evening.  "With  the 
constant  dread  of  insurrections,  and  the  memory  of 
the  massacre  of  the  whites  which  occurred  a  few  years 
since,  the  inhabitants  do  not  feel  safe  in  defying  these 
interruptions  of  their  comfort.  It  is  a  recent  triumph 
of  the  blacks,  that  the  famous  and  aristocratic  convent 
of  this  place  has  been  compelled  to  admit  colored  young 
ladies,  if  offered  as  pupils.  Another  triumph  has  been' 
added  to  this,  in  the  shape  of  a  result  of  a  matter  of 
some  scandal.  A  wealthy  planter,  when  dying,  a  year 
or  more  since,  recommended  to  the  special  care  of  his 
young  wife,  a  negro  youth,  one  of  his  manumitted 
slaves,  who  had  been  his  favorite.  The  black  boy,  af 
ter  a  month  or  two,  was  found  dining  at  his  mistress's 
table,  and  it  was  at  this  point  of  intimacy  that  her 
aristocratic  relatives  interfered  and  made  their  greatest 
opposition  and  remonstrance.  The  course  of  time, 
however,  brought  about  more  serious  proofs  of  intima 
cy,  and  then  the  relatives  gave  up  opposition,  the  mat 
ter  was  compromised,  and  the  planter's  widow  and  her 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.          119 

manumitted  slave  were  very  recently  married,  with  all 
the  usual  forms  and  ceremonies.  The  whole  affair  is 
still  a  lively  topic  of  Martinique  gossip. 

An  introduction,  kindly  offered  us,  to  Monsieur  Bis- 
eette,  the  negro  representative  from  Martinique  to  the 
National  Assembly  at  Paris,  has  been  prevented  by  his 
recent  illness.  The  history  of  this  now  celebrated  man 
is  dramatic  enough  to  be  remembered.  A  tract  which 
he  wrote  upon  the  hardships  of  the  negro  slaves  in  the 
colonies,  drew  upon  him  the  hostility  of  the  local  gov 
ernment,  and  he  was  arrested,  tried,  branded,  and  con 
demned  to  the  galleys.  On  arriving  in  France,  an  able 
lawyer,  feeling  a  sympathy  in  his  case,  undertook  to 
procure  him  a  new  trial  at  Paris.  He  succeeded, 
pleaded  his  cause,  and  procured  his  acquittal.  Bissette 
returned  to  Martinique  in  1848,  and  his  reception  by 
the  negroes  was  the  most  tumultuous  scene  ever  wit 
nessed  in  the  country.  The  planters  and  citizens  ex 
pected,  of  "course,  that  in  him,  they  had  now,  a  danger 
ous  and  bitter  enemy  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  his  whole 
course  and  policy  have  been  to  establish  a  kindly  un 
derstanding  between  the  whites  and  blacks  of  the  is 
land.  As  Eepresentative  and  citizen,  he  has  shown 
himself,  every  way,  a  man  of  enlarged  and  liberal  phi 
lanthropy.  A  class  of  the  blacks  has  fallen  off  from 
supporting  him,  naturally ;  but,  in  the  general  esteem 


120         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

of  the  inhabitants,  of  both  colors,  he  stands  higher, 
perhaps,  than  any  other  man. 

The  negro's  inordinate  and  uncontrollable  love  of 
change  is  the  greatest  obstacle  which  philanthropists 
find  in  the  way  of  bettering  his  condition.  Physiolo 
gists  say  it  is  a  quality  in  his  blood.  He  is  constant  to 
nothing  which  he  can  set  aside.  The  law  has  lately 
made  an  attempt  to  correct  this  fickleness,  as  far  as  it 
affects  service  in  families  and  on  plantations.  Since 
emancipation,  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  retain 
them,  except  for  a  little  time  in  each  new  place ;  and 
laborers  often  occasioned  great  loss  to  the  planter  by 
suddenly  leaving  him  when  his  crop  was  ripe  on  the 
ground  and  needed  immediate  harvesting.  The  new 
law  compels  a  written  agreement  for  every  term  of  ser 
vice,  and  binds  both  parties,  by  heavy  penalties,  to  ad 
here  to  it.  New  servants  and  laborers  are  not  to  be 
employed  without  a  certificate,  from  the  last  place,  that 
these  conditions  have  been  fulfilled.  All  this  excites 
great  discontent,  among  them,  however. 

A  curious  proof  of  the  negro  love  of  novelty  was 
mentioned  to  us  by  a  most  intelligent  gentleman  who 
has  resided  twenty  years  on  the  island.  They  work  on 
estates  where  there  are  usually  as  many  females  as 
males,  but  they  never  form  intimacies  on  the  estates 
where  they  live.  They  must  have  their  temporary 
wives  on  plantations  three  or  four  miles  off;  and  thither 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     T  R  O  P  I  U  b  .  121 

they  go  nightly,  at  both  great  inconvenience  and  great 
danger — the  walk  after  dark,  and  the  return  before 
daylight,  exposing  them  to  the  venomous  snakes  which 
sleep  coiled  upon  the  roads,  and  the  fatigue  being  a 
heavy  addition  to  their  day's  labor.  This  evil,  however, 
will  disappear  gradually  before  the  growing  ambition 
to  be  "  respectable  " — the  first  step  of  which,  usually,  is 
to  marry  legally  and  legitimatize  children.  They  then 
become  extremely  punctilious  and  etiquettical,  never  ad 
dressing  each  other  without  "Monsieur"  and  "Ma 
dame,"  and  going  through  all  forms  and  ceremonies  with 
ludicrous  pertinacity  and  gravity.  Breen  makes  some 
remarks  on  these  points  which  are  valuable,  from  his 
well  weighed  knowledge  of  the  race  : — 

"  Amongst  the  numerous  peculiarities  of  the  negro 
character,  as  it  is  moulded  or  modified  by  French  so 
ciety  is  their  constant  aping  of  their  superiors  in  rank. 
During  slavery,  the-  most  venial  offence,  the  most  inno 
cent  familiarity,  was  regarded  as  an  "insolence"  and, 
all  the  year  round,  the  din  of  "Je  vous  trouve  bien  inso 
lent"  resounded  in  the  negro's  ear.  From  long  habit 
this  expression  has  now  become  a  by-word  with  the 
lower  orders  :  it  is,  in  fact,  the  style  of  their  abuse  of 
each  other,  and  the  most  opprobrious  epithet  in  their 
Billingsgate  vocabulary.  Canaille  is  deemed  too  vul 
gar,  and  negraiUe  too  personal ;  while  "  in-so-lent  "  car 
ries  with  it  a  pungency  which  receives  added  zest  from 
the  recollections  of  the  past. 

"  But  if,  to  be  deemed  insolent  is  the  lowest  step  of 

degradation,  to  be  held  respectable  is  the  highest  step  in 

the  ladder  of  social  distinction.     Nothing  can  be  more 

amusing  than  to  observe  the  talismanic  effect  of  this 

6 


122          HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE    TROPICS. 

word  upon  the  lower  orders  ;  even  the  common  street- 
criers  take  advantage  of  it  in  the  disposal  of  their 
wares.  Some  time  ago  a  female  servant  being  commis 
sioned  to  sell  a  quantity  of  biscuits  of  inferior  quality, 
hawked  them  about  to  the  cry  of  "  biscuits  pour  les 
dames  respectables.'1''  As  she  passed  along  the  street, 
the  conceited  recommendation  did  not  fail  to  attract  the 
attention  of  those  for  whom  it  was  thrown  out.  The 
hawker  was  stopped  at  every  door,  and  so  oreat  was 
the  anxiety  of  the  negresses  to  test  the  quality  of  her 
biscuits  as  a  patent  of  respectability,  that,  before  she 
had  reached  the  end  of  the  street,  she  had  disburdened 
herself  of  the  contents  of  her  tray. 

"  The  negro's  pretensions  to  respectability  are  found 
ed  more  upon  the  contrast  between  himself  and  the  Eu 
ropean  laborer,  than  upon  any  positive  good  qualities 
that  he  can  lay  claim  to.  In  some  points  there  is  a  de 
cided  superiority  on  his  side.  His  person  and  his  hut, 
apart  from  the  influence  of  the  climate,  are  cleaner  than 
those  of  the  white  peasant ;  his  Ifoliday  dress  more  sty 
lish,  and  his  gait  and  attitudes  less  clumsy  and  clown 
ish  :  but  he  is  surpassed  by  the  white  man  in  the  more 
solid  qualities  of  industry  and  perseverance.  A  negro 
espies  his  fellow  at  the  end  of  the  street,  and,  rather 
than  join  him  in  a  tete-a-tete,  he  will  carry  on  a  conver 
sation  with  him  for  several  hours  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
to  the  unspeakable  annoyance,  perhaps  the  scandal,  of 
those  who  may  occupy  the  intermediate  houses 
Should  the  wind  blow  off  his  hat,  and  warn  him  to  de 
part,  he  will  continue  the  conversation,  and  let  some 
one  else  pick  it  up  for  him  ;  or,  if  he  condescend  to 
notice  the  occurrence,  he  turns  round,  with  an  air  of 
offended  dignity,  puts  his  arms  a-kimbo,  takes  a  quiet 
look  at  the  hat  as  it  rolls  along,  shrugs  up  his  left  shoul 
der,  and  walks  leisurely  after  it,  until  it  meets  with 
some  natural  obstruction. 

"  The  general  character  of  the  French  negro,  physi 
cal,  moral  and  social,  may  be  summed  up  in  a  few 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROT      s   A  .          123 

words.  His  person  is  well-proportioned,  his  movements 
are  brisk,  his  -carriage  easy,  without  stiffness  or  swag 
ger.  His  disposition  is  uncommonly  gsiy  and  trood -hu 
mored  ;  he  is  always  singing  or  vVMstlitt*  when  com 
patible  with  his  actual  occupation.  He  is  submissive, 
but  never  obsequious;  and,  though  born  and  bred  in 
slavery,  there  is  not  a  trace  of  servility  in  trie  outward 
man.  Unlike  the  European  peasant,  who  seldom  pre 
sents  himself  before  a  clean  coat  without  a  feeling  of 
crawling  degradation,  the  French  colonial  negro  is  po 
lite  to  a  point;  he  can  touch  his  hat  to  any  one,  but  he 
will  not  uncover  himself  in  the  open  air,  even  for  the 
Governor  of  the  colony.  He  is  docile,  intelligent  and 
sober;  active,  but  not  laborious;  superstitious,  but  not 
religious;  addicted  to  thieving  without  being  a  rogue; 
averse  to  matrimony,  yet  devoted  to  several  wives; 
and,  though  faithful  to  neither,  he  can  scarcely  be 
deemed  debauched.  His  friendship  is  sincere,  his  grat 
itude  unbounded,  and  hjs  generosity  to  all  about  him 
only  surpassed  by  his  affectionate  attachment  to  his 
children.  In  him  the  undisciplined  character  of  the  Af 
rican  is  tempered  by  the  accident  of  his  birth.  He  is, 
in  short,  a  compound  of  savageness  and  civilization — 
the  rude  production  of  the  desert,  transplanted  to  a 
more  congenial  soil,  and  polished  off,  externally,  by  the 
decencies  and  humanizing  contact  of  English  and 
French  society;  but  without  that  culture,  in  religion 
and  education,  which  alone  can  impart  either  weight  or 
moral  dignity  to  the  social  man." 

This  was  written,  you  well  remember,  some  years 
ago,  and,  with  the  progress  since,  it  is  to  be  read  with 
some  grains  of  difference.  Of  the  present  state  of  the 
advance  class  of  the  negro  race  in  these  islands,  Made 
moiselle  Juliette  and  Monsieur  Bissette  may  be  to  you 
very  fair  points  of  estimate  and  comparison — one  social, 


124          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

the  other  political.  In  this  respect,  what  I  have  put  to 
gether  may  be  of  some  value,  and  I  believe  I  will  con* 
fine  this  letter  altogether  to  the  coloured  topic,  and  close 
where  I  am. 


LETTER   No.  14 


GOOD  FEATURE  OF  THE  CATHOLIC  RELIGION HOUR  OF  REVE 
RIE  IN  THE  CATHEDRAL GIRLS  CROWDING  TO  THE  CONFES 
SIONAL SWALLOWS  NESTLING  BEHIND  THE  PICTURES  OF 

THE  VIRGIN A  NEGRO  WOMAN'S  PRAYER  PROBABLY  AN 
SWERED SUNDAY  MORNING  MASS  IN  LENT THE  FASHIONA 
BLE  CREOLES  IN  PARISIAN  TOILETTES THE  NEGRESS  IN 

FULL  DRESS AFFECTIONATENESS  OF  FRENCH  PEOPLE  TO 
WARD  MATRONS — NEGRESS'  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  WOOLLY 

HEAD MADRAS  KERCHIEFS  PAINTED  EVERY  WEEK CAS 
CADE  OF  TURBANS  POURING  DOWN  THE  STEPS  OF  THE  CA 
THEDRAL DESCRIPTION  OF  MARTINIQUE  FEMALE  DRESS 

BUST  LEFT  TO  ITSELF UNGRACEFUL  MANNER  OF  HITCHING 

UP    THE    PETTICOAT NO    STOCKINGS  ON  BLACK    FEET,    BUT 

PATENT-LEATHER   SHOES    THOUGHT  ELEGANT FORTUNE  IN 

GOLD    ORNAMENTS FAMILIES    AND    NEIGHBORS    SEATED  IN 

THE      STREETS NO     IN-DOOR.      LIFE NEGRESS     AND      HER 

ORANGE THE  FRANGIPANE,    A    WONDERFULLY  BEAUTIFUL 

FLOWERING    TREE POLITENESS    OF    FRENCH    GENTLEMEN 

MET  IN  A  WALK THE  DIFFERENCE  OF  THESE  SUBURBS  FROM 

OURS,  AND  THE  VARIOUS  NEW  SIGHTS  SEEN  IN  THE  FIRST 
MILE  OR  TWO  OUT  OF  ST.  PIERf.E,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Martinique,  April,  1852. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  cannot  but  think  it  a  good  feature  of  a  religion,  that 
the  service  attracts  idlers  to  its  church  every  day— 


126         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

whatever  be  the  immediate  motive  of  their  curiosity. 
Good  thoughts  are  apt  to  drop  upon  a  man,  from  sa 
cred  roofs;  and  without  being  a  Catholic,  one  may  have 
so  put  his  heart  within  reach  of  gentler  and  better  in 
fluences,  by  daily  reverie  amid  impressive  architecture 
and  ceremonials,  as  to  owe  a  great  deal  to  Catholic 
churches.  The  sight  of  people  praying  sincerely  is  very 
moving ;  and  the  living  picture  seldom  wanting  in  any 
dome  or  cathedral,  is  some  poor  wretch  who  has  come 
in,  from  a  world  without  pity,  and  in  finding  relief  and 
consolation  in  kneeling  where  there  is  hope  and  mercy. 
The  church,  this  morning,  (into  which  I  had  strolled, 
with  an  hour  to  spare,)  was  a  delightful  shelter  from 
the  glare  of  the  sun,  our  usual  sight-seeing  ramble  hav 
ing  extended  far  into  a  southern  forenoon — nine  o'clock. 
There  was  no  service,  except  a  priest  in  every  confes 
sional  box,  and  six  or  seven  young  girls,  at  each  one, 
waiting  with  sins  to  disburthen.  A  young  negro  priest 
was  busy  about  the  altar,  arranging  its  silver  furniture 
and  dropping  to  his  knee  whenever  he  passed  before  the 
image  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  only  sound  that  interrupted 
the  shuffle  of  his  slippers  was  the  whir  of  the  wings  of 
a  flock  of  swallows,  a  dozen  or  more  of  them  having 
built  their  nests  between  the  holy  pictures  and  the  walls 
of  the  chancel.  I  found  a  seat  for  my  tired  limbs — (the 
dim  light  and  lofty  roof  an  easy-chair  for  my  tired  mind) 
— and,  for  an  hour,  enjoyed  at  least  the  luxury  of  the 

6DOt. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.  127 

Several  had  come  in  and  told  their  beads  while  I  sat 
there,  and  the  turbaned  heads  had  one  after  another, 
been  laid  against  the  brass  plate,  (the  other  side  of 
whose  secret-keeping  holes  were  at  the  priest's  ear  in  the 
confessional  box,)  and,  when  I  rose  to  go,  I  was  almost 
alone.  One  negro  woman  was  the  only  worshipper  I 
saw — a  hideous-looking  object,  she  seemed  at  first — who 
had  apparently  just  ventured  to  creep  within  the  threshold, 
and  setting  down  the  wooden  tray  with  which,  she  had 
brought  in  a  load  for  the  market,  had  sunk  into  a  heap 
of  rags  and  misery  upon  her  knees.  I  was  passing  her, 
when  the  expression  of  her  face  arrested  my  attention — 
complete  exhaustion  and  suffering,  softened  with  an 
inexpressible  sincerity  of  imploringness.  She  prayed  as 
if  she  felt,  that,  if  there  were  a  God  in  heaven,  she  would 
then  be  heard — that  she  had  suffered  enough,  and  was 
poor  enough,  and  old  and  weary  enough,  to  make  it 
SUre — and  she  was  waiting  to  be  answered.  I  stepped 
over  the  ashy  white  soles  of  her  skinny  and  dusty  black 
feet  turned  up  on  the  edges  of  her  rags,  and  as  I  rounded 
the  post  of  the  porch  near  which  she  knelt,  dropped  a 
piece  of  money  into  the  dirty  cloth  she  had  laid  aside 
upon  the  floor,  the  cushion  which  softened  the  weight 
of  her  tray  upon  her  head.  To  her  it  was  an  answer  to 
prayer,  there  is  little  doubt — and,  if  the  angel  did  not 
do  it,  (perhaps  they  did,  by  prompting  me,)  she  pro 
bably  believed  they  did ;  and  there  are  illusions, 


12S          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

if  tins   were    one,    which    it   is   better   should  Tie  be 
lieved  in. 

We  were  at  the  Sunday  morning  m:iss,  at  this  same 
church,  and  as  it  is  the  season  of  Lent,  it  \vas  unusually 
thronged.  We  saw,  we  were  assured,  the  choicest  of 
the  female  society  of  the  place — and  female,  almost  to  a 
man,  the  congregation  was.  The  Creole  ladies  were  in 
unexceptionable  French  toilet — charming  bonnets  of 
the  newest  Parisian  fashion,  beautifully  worn  as  well  as 
beautifully  chosen — and  there  was  no  look  of  the  Tro 
pics  about  them  except  in  their  complexions.  A  sal- 
lowness,  of  the  hue  of  bundled  ivory,  (which  I  am  grow- 
inir  to  think  rather  elegant  than  otherwise,)  is  on  the 
youngest  and  healthiest  cheek,  and  of  roses  there  are 
none.  But  we  were  charmed  with  one  thing,  which  de 
lights  the  traveller  wherever  the  French  are  found — the 
affectionate  and  caressing  respect  with  which  the  el 
derly  ladies  of  the  crowd  were  treated  by  their  younger 
friends  and  acquaintances.  As  the  dispersing  congre 
gation  poured  out  of  church,  the  centres  of  the  groups 
were  the  gray  haired  matrons — (who,  by  the  way,  were 
dressed  with  a  care  and  an  elegant  propriety  that  ex 
pressed  their  social  value) — and  who  were  beset,  and 
questioned,  and  kissed,  as  if  to  be  loved  and  admired, 
it  were  only  necessary  to  be  old.  The  manners  of  the 
gray-haired  favorites  were  most  winning,  I  thought — 
their  dignity  and  ease  being  mingled  with  a  kind  of 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  129 

condescending  playfulness  and  gayety  that  must  make 
the  young  people  at  home  in  their  company,  and  which 
showed,  besides,  how  completely  restraint  was  removed, 
and  how  sincere  and  natural  were  the  exchanges  of 
compliments  and  kind  words.  Life  brightens  to  the 
end,  in  this  way,  as  the  sun  sets. 

But  the  Sunday  mass,  we  had  been  told,  was  the 
great  opportunity  to  see  the  holiday  costumes  and  de 
meanor  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes  of  the  island — 
and  a  show  of  no  small  magnificence  it  was.  The 
French  negress  gives  up  her  wrool,  as  impracticable  of 
coiffure;  but  she  makes  up  for  her  disowned  peculiarity 
as  a  thunder-cloud  is  replaced  by  a  rainbow.  Her  Ma 
dras  turban  is  not  only  of  every  color  that  can  be 
woven,  but  the  squares  in  it  are  painted  with  brighter 
colors,  renewed  after  every  washing.  In  any  street  of 
St.  Pierre  on  a  week  day  you  may  see  the  black  beauty 
with  pots  and  paint-brush,  preparing  her  bright  kerchief 
for  Sunday  wear.  You  can  have  no  idea  of  the  effect 
of  a  thousand  of  these  gorgeous  heads  coming  down  the 
steps  of  a  cathedral.  It  was  like  a  Trenton  Falls  of 
tulips  and  boquets — a  slow  cascade  of  negresses  crown 
ed  with  rainbows — the  black  faces  giving  the  relief  of 
velvet  under  flowers.  A  true  copy  of  a  cathedral  with 
such  a  congregation  issuing  from  it,  would  astonish  even 
Williams  and  Stevens's  show  window. 

The  remainder  of  the  dress — the  fashion  of  which 


130         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

they  adhere  to,  with  singular  universality — is  primitively 
simple.  It  is  a  chemise  and  a  petticoat — nothing  else. 
The  short  sleeves  of  the  white  under-garment  hang  very 
loosely  about  the  shoulders,  and  as  it  is  not  shaped  at 
all  to  the  form,  there  seems  to  be  no  particular  design 
of  concealing  the  bust  either  by  young  women  or  old. 
As  to  figure,  indeed,  they  have  evidently  no  idea  of 
any  differences  of  beauty  in  it,  or  display  of  it,  except 
by  the  colours  in  which  it  is  draped.  The  petticoat  is 
a  mere  skirt  of  brilliant  dyes,  tied  over  the  chemise  at 
the  waist,  and  they  have  a  very  unbecoming  fashion  of 
wearing  it  so  long  that  it  cannot  be  loosed  upon  the 
ground,  but  must  be  caught  up  and  hitched  at  the  side. 
It,  consequently,  clings  ungracefully  close  behind,  show 
ing,  sometimes,  to  be  sure,  a  well-turned  and  polished 
calf  of  a  black  leg,  but  otherwise  quite  spoiling  the 
beauty  of  these  stately  Cleopatras.  I  have  not  seen  a 
stocking  on  one  of  them,  since  I  have  been  here,  and 
they  are  usually  barefooted — but  it  seems  to  be  the 
height  of  elegance,  with  here  and  there  a  dressy  one, 
to  wear  gentlemen's  walking-pumps  of  patent-leather,  in 
which  th«  skin  sets  like  a  neat  black  stocking.  The 
gold  ornaments  are  of  such  monstrous  massiveness  and 
quantity  as  to  be  the  feature  which  catches  the  eye, 
however.  I  am  told  that  a  girl  usually  carries  her 
whole  fortune  in  them,  and  to  her  ebony  complexion, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          131 

the  rich  yellow  of  the  gold  is  certainly  very  embel 
lishing. 

A  walk  through  the  streets  of  St.  Pierre  on  Sunday 
afternoon,  is  not  very  much  what  a  walk  through  the 
streets  of  New  York  would  be,  at  the^same  hour.  The 
whole  pppulation  are  seated  outside — the  white  people 
in  chairs  around  the  doors,  the  black  people  in  the  mid 
dle  of  the  street,  squat  on  the  pavement — and  all  in 
costumes  of  the  gayest  colors.  The  climate,  which,  at 
the  North,  is  simply  air  to  breathe,  here  furnishes  sev 
eral  things  beside,  viz.  : — a  drawing-room  with  a  blue 
roof,  happiness  when  idle,  and  several  articles  of  dress. 

A  house,  for  the  negro,  is  only  a  place  to  sleep  and 
be  sick  in.  He  and  his  family  reside  in  the  open  air 
and,  on  a  holiday  evening,  every  corner  you  turn  seems 
to  present  you  with  an  immense  game  of  "  hunt  tho 
slipper,"  played  by  the  opposite  neighbors  on  the  pave 
ment  between  their  houses.  I  have  described  to  you 
the  bright  rivulet  in  the  middle  of  every  street,  and  the 
cleanliness  of  every  one  of  them,  from  there  being  no 
vehicles  and  seldom  a  horse  passing — and  this  makes 
the  front  of  every  dwelling  like  a  court-yard  and  it  is 
so  used.  The  naked  children  sit  in  the  water  or  run 
about  like  a  litter  of  puppies ;  the  men  and  women 
lounge  on  the  flat  stones,  and  smoke,  and  look  on  ;  the 
old  folks  lean  against  the  wall,  happy  in  their  segars  J 
young  girls  coquet  with  their  finery,  straightening  up 


132          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  taking  an  attitude  as  the  stranger  comes  along ; 
nobody  looks  "bored,"  nobody  particularly  grave,  every 
body  content,  and  half  the  world,  at  least,  very  merry. 

Through  till  this,  it  is  very  amusing  for  a  foreigner  to 
stroll,  and,  to  me,  it  is  a  succession  of  tableaux  vivants 
of  which  I  never  tire.  One  picks  his  way*  through 
seated  neighborhoods  of  people,  and  around  groups, 
making  the  circuit  of  a  fat  beauty  and  her  dress,  or 
stepping  over  a  child  or  its  grandmother,  and,  really, 
sees  more  of  the  physiognomy  of  the  people  and  their 
h.-.bits,  in  half  nn  hour,  than  elsewhere  in  a  mouth.  "  In 
terior  life" — of  which  the  stranger  may  see  nothing,  in 
other  cities — is  here  all  open  to  him.  Le  (liable  boileux, 
\vhw  looked  down  through  the  roofs,  could  scarce  see 
more. 

An  instance  of  negro  politeness  which  we  fell  in  with, 
the  other  evening,  may  amuse  you  My  friend  and  I 
were  sauntering  slowly  toward  the  lovely  suburbs  of  the 
town,  when  I  found  myself  compelled  to  go  round  a 
fat  negress,  very  gaily  dressed,  who  sat  on  the  pavement 
in  the  street,  and  w?<s  indolently  dividing  an  orange. 
The  segments  of  the  fruit  looked  so  ripe  and  tempting, 
that  I  ventured  to  put  thumb  and  finger  toward  one  of 
them,  and  ask  for  it  with  a  s'il  vous  plait.  She  nodded 
her  chin  quite  down  into  her  black  bosom  as  she  handed 
the  orange  up  to  me,  but,  seeing  Mr.  G.  at  the  next  mo 
ment,  she  insisted  on  my  taking  the  rest  of  the  fruit  and 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS.          133 

sharing  it  with  my  friend.  With  a  broad  smile  of  good 
nature  that  had  not  a  shadow  of  servility  or  obsequi 
ousness  in  it,  she  waved  her  fat  hand  with  an  adieu, 
and  we  went  on  our  way,  enriched  with  a  new  acquaint 
ance.  I  have  met  her  once  since,  and  taken  off  my  hat, 
with  quite  as  much  pleasure  as  a  bow  usually  gives — 
and  the  world  would  be  happier,  I  think,  if  this  were  a 
specimen  of  its  every-day  intercourse. 

A  little  farther  on,  in  the  same  walk,  we  passed  a 
garden  in  which  there  was  a  flowering  tree,  of  a  beauty 
quite  new  to  us.  Its  green  foliage  was  very  full,  and 
the  tree  was  about  as  tall  as  the  common  tulip  tree — 
but  it  looked  precisely  as  if  a  soft  damp  snow  had  fallen 
in  the  night  and  laden  down  its  branches  with  as  much 
as  they-could  bear.  The  rich  white  flowers  lay  cupped 
in  the  middle  of  each  spreading  branch — a  large  lap-full 
in  every  clustre.  We  learned  afterwards  that  this  was 
the  frangipane — and  it  seemed  an  exotic,  for  we  in  vain 
enquired  its  name,  of  two  very  intelligent-looking  gen 
tlemen  who  were  passing  at  the  moment,  but  of  whoso 
politeness  I  wished  to  speak,  by  the  way,  as  illustrating 
the  manners  of  the  better  class  of  white  inhabitants. 
They  raised  their  hats  very  courteously  at  my  abrupt 
question,  stopped,  and  entered  into  conversation,  and 
parted  from  us,  after  five  minutes'  discourse  upon  the 
trees  and  plants  of  the  island,  with  the  civility  of  friends 
or  acquaintances.  As  we  were  bound  to  a  public  prom 


134          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     T  H  E  *  T.R  O  P  I  C  S  . 

enade,  we  passed  these  same  gentlemen  again,  seated  on 
one  of  the  stone  benches,  and  they  took  off  their  hats  to 
us  again  with  the  same  genial  courtesy  and  a  polite 
phrase  of  recognition.  This  is  not  much,  perhaps,  but 
as  a  feature  of  national  manners,  I  think  it  very  admir 
able.  The  stranger  is  made  to  feel  at  home  by  such 
kindness,  and  there  is  an  out-door  hospitality  in  it,  whichi 
for  the  pleasure  it  gives,  leaves  "  letters  of  introduction" 
far  behind. 

Poor  people,  here,  live  in  the  city — not  in  the  suburbs; 
and  a  walk  out  of  town  is,  consequently,  a  pleasanter 
thing  than  where  the  suburbs  are  shanties  and  pig-styes 
— (a  three  mile  gauntlet  of  vile  smells,  as  it  is  at  New 
York.)  Gardens  and  villas  commence  immediately  at 
the  ends  of  the  streets,  and,  to  an  American  eye,  at  least, 
there  are  few  objects,  moving  or  stationary,  even  for  the 
first  mile  out  of  St.  Pierre  on  the  north,  that  are  not  new 
and  picturesque.  So  it  seemed  to  us.  A  little  altar,  at 
the  side  of  tfye  road,  had  one  poor  candle  burning  before 
its  rude  image  of  the  Virgin,  and  a  negro  knelt  praying 
before  it.  The  ladies  sat  smoking  their  segars  under  the 
porticoes.  Yoked  together  by  the  horns,  and  with  their 
noses  crowded  down  to  the  dust,  the  poor  oxen,  that 
could  not  turn  their  heads,  toiled  past  with  their  mon 
strous  loads,  and  gave  us  a  side  glance  out  of  their  great 
mournful  eyes.  A  new  volcano,  lately  broken  out  in  the 
side  of  the  mountain  beyond,  (and  in  which  the  inhabit 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          135 

ants  rejoice,  as  a  vent  for  what  might  otherwise  have 
been  an  earthquake,)  sent  up  its  black  column  of  smoke 
to  the  sky.  Charming  waterfalls,  sluices  from  the  sides 
of  the  massive  aqueducts,)  poured  over  the  precipices 
that  were  not  born  to  the  honor  of  so  white  a  veil.  Sol 
diers  off  duty  were  strolling  over  the  hills  in  their  bright 
uniforms.  Naked  black  children  were  playing  every 
where  on  the  road,  stamped  with  daguerreotypes  of  the 
white-dusted  stones  they  had  sat  down  upon.  Flowers 
of  the  most  brill  ant  dyes  grew  wild  on  all  sides.  The 
air  was  an  un mingled  deliciousness  to  breathe,  and  every 
body's  countenance  indolently  and  contentedly  expressed 
it.  Take  me  such  a  walk  in  your  temperate  zone,  my 
dear  Morris ! 

And  with  thus  getting  the  better  of  you,  I  will  close 
this  letter. 


LETTER    No.    15. 


NUNS    NURSING    SICK    SOLDIERS DESCRIPTION    OF    MILITARY 

HOSPITAL BEAUTY  OF    BEARDS    IN    BED VISIT    TO    FREE- 

MASON'S  LODGE CURIOUS  VINE COFFEE-PLANT  AND  NA- 

TURE'S  LAW  OF  FRUIT-BEARING — NEW  WAY  TO  CARRY  A 

CHILD TEMPORARY  MARRIAGES   AND   THE   MANNER   OF 

BREAKING  OFF FASHION  FOR  GENTLEMEN'S  HAIR,  IN  MAR 
TINIQUE THE    SHOPS    WITH    NO    DISPLAY  OUT  OF  DOORS 

MARKET  FOR  BRILLIANT  HANDKERCHIEFS FEMALE  CLERKS 

NEGRO    FAMILIES    IN    MOURNING    AND    THEIR    SINGULAR 

COSTUME LONG     SKIRTS      IN     THE     STREET RESULTS     OF 

EMANCIPATION    ON    THE    FEW    AND    ON    THE  MANY BLACK 

MAN  BEATING  A  WOMAN NEGRO  JOURNALISM PERIODS  OF 

WAKING    AND    SLEEPING    IN    WARM    CLIMATE UNHEALTHY 

JUST    BEFORE    DAWN INCIDENT    OF    POLITENESS — SUGAR, 

IN  THE  MUD  ON  ONE5  S  BOOTS,  ETC.,  ETC. 

St.  Pierre,  Martinique,  April,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

My  walk  of  this  morning  has  been  through  the  wards 
of  a  military  hospital — a  kind  of  walk  I  used  to  be  more 
fond  of,  in  days  when  the  picture  of  life  more  needed  to 
borrow  shading.  This  was  different,  in  some  respects, 
from  the  hospitals  I  have  seen  ;  one  might  covet  a  fever 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          137 

to  be  so  lodged  and  tended.  The  building  was  a  mas 
sive  and  imposing  one,  shelved  on  a  terrace  close  to  the 
bright  green  hills  which  embosom  the  town,  and  with 
the  courts  and  gardens  of  a  palace  around  it.  There 
were  two  picturesque  peculiarities — one  of  which  had  a 
touch  of  sentiment  also  :  the  attendants  were  Sisters 
of  Charity,  nuns  nicely  coiffed  in  white,  and  with  their 
black  crosses  suspended  over  the  whitest  of  aprons, 
whom  it  looked  as  if  it  might  be  a  pleasure  to  be  nursed 
by.  Then  the  sixty  or  seventy  sick  soldiers  were  heavi 
ly  bearded;  and,  as  they  lay  reading,  or  sleeping,  in 
their  long  rows  of  white  beds,  their  heads  upon  the 
clean  pillows — mustaches,  imperials  and  all — were  stu 
dies  for  an  artist.  Grow  your  beard,  if  you  wish  to 
look  well  in  bed,  my  dear  General ! 

Our  charming  hostess  had  put  me  under  the  charge 
of  one  of  her  friends,  a  polite  French  gentleman,  who 
took  me  from  the  hospital  to  the  courts  of  law,  and 
thence  to  the  Lodge  of  the  Freemasons — the  latter  a 
labyrinth  of  access,  and  full  of  the  mystic  symbols  of 
the  Order,  but  not  very  distinctly  describable.  What 
the  eyes  in  the  wall  meant — the  columns  with  single 
letters  on  them,  the  daggers  on  the  desks,  and  the  blaz 
ing  suns  with  mystic  inscriptions — I  did  not  venture  to 
inquire  of  the  venerable  negro  who  showed  us  the 
premises.  He  opened  a  concealed  cupboard  in  one  of 
the  rooms,  however,  and  offered  me  a  glass  of  brandy 


138          HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  water,  and  it  needed  no  mutual  finger-twist  to  un 
derstand  that.  Over  one  of  the  arbors  in  the  garden 
grew  a  vine  which  wras  new  to  me,  and  which  looked 
like  a  "  washing  "  of  embroidered  lace  spread  to  dry  in 
the  sun.  The  leaf  was  as  large  as  a  sheet  of  note  pa 
per,  and  snowy  white,  except  that  in  the  centre  was  its 
own  picture  in  green — a  small  green  leaf,  looking  pre 
cisely  as  if  painted  upon  the  white  one,  with  exquisite 
art.  It  seemed  native  to  the  soil,  and  grew  most  luxu 
riantly. 

I  have  inquired  for  the  coffee-plant,  here,  but,  though 
it  is  one  of  the  products  of  the  island,  I  cannot  get 
sight  of  it.  They  say  it  is  now  nearly  unproductive, 
from  the  ravages  of  a  worm  which  destroys  the  leaf. 
The  effort  to  reproduce  the  leaf  so  exhausts  the  plant 
that  it  bears  no  fruit — a  law  of  Nature,  my  dear  poet, 
of  which  you  will  see  many  a  pretty  and  similar  opera 
tion  in  human  character  and  vicissitude.  What  berries 
of  delicious  flavor  some  hearts  and  intellects  might 
bear,  but  for  the  worm  of  care  that  uses  them  up  with 
eternal  re-producing  of  the  mere  foliage  for  common 
necessities. 

The  women  of  St.  Pierre  carry  their  babies  to  good 
advantage,  by  putting  them  astride  the  hip.  In  this  po 
sition,  the  child  rides  as  comfortably  as  in  a  saddle, 
while  the  left  arm  of  the  parent,  relieved  entirely  of  the 
weight,  has  only  to  steady  the  little  one  in  its  place, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          139 

leaving  her  right  arm  entirely  at  liberty.  The  young 
ster  so  spread,  with  one  leg  before  its  mother  and  the 
other  behind  her,  has  probably  a  better  chance  to 
grow,  than  one  tightened  into  a  heap  by  the  squeeze  of 
a  tired  arm.  I  saw  a  nurse,  yesterday,  by  the  way, 
leading  a  white  child  of  perhaps  four  years  of  age, 
with  a  beautiful  little  French  cap  on  its  head,  but  other 
wise  entirely  naked.  Children,  here,  are  considered 
clothed  by  the  climate.  I  am  told,  that,  when  the  tem 
porary  marriages  of  the  negroes  come  to  an  end,  they 
separate  in  the  most  friendly  manner,  the  father  taking 
the  girls  and  the  mother  the  boys,  and  that  no  family 
interest  is  felt  afterwards  between  the  children  of  the 
same  parents.  As  they  change  their  names  whenever 
the  caprice  seizes  them,  brothers  and  sisters  are  very 
likely  to  meet  without  being  aware  of  their  relation 
ship,  unless  enlightened  by  instinct  or  resemblance. 

Hair  is  unfashionable  on  this  island,  as  an  article  of 
gentleman's  wear.  They  clip  it  as  close  as  scissors  will 
do  it,  letting  the  beared  out,  however,  with  proportiona 
ble  luxuriance.  Our  handsome  host  pleads  the  heat  of 
the  climate  as  the  reason  for  the  fashion ;  but,  cushion 
ing  the  lips  and  lungs  while  the  skull  is  shorn,  seems  to 
me  a  careful  cooling  of  the  brain,  with  a  strange  for 
getful  ness  of  the  more  sensitive  respiration — and  ex 
cessively  unbecoming.  The  taking  off  the  hat,  here, 
looks  like  a  polite  uncovering  of  a  cocoa-nut.  The  ne- 


140          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

gro  probably  likes  the  fashion,  as  it  effaces  one  distinc 
tion  between  the  white  man  and  himself. 

I  have  said  nothing  of  the  main  street  of  shops  in  St. 
Pierre,  though  it  is  part  of  our  daily  stroll — but  there 
is  less  to  describe  than  in  such  localities  usually. 
There  is  no  outside  show — or  so  little,  that,  in  standing 
at  one  end  of  the  street  and  looking  up  or  down,  you 
would  suppose  it  to  be  a  thoroughfare  of  dark-fronted 
dwelling-houses.  The  display  of  goods  is  all  inside, 
and  the  sign,  if  there  be  any,  is  about  of  the  size  and 
ostentatiousness  of  a  New-York  attorney's  tin  "shin 
gle."  Still,  the  finery  on  sale  for  the  negroes  is  exces 
sively  gay,  and  kerchiefs- particularly  are  made  for  this 
market,  which  altogether  out-glory  Canal  street  and 
Maiden  Lane.  For  a  flashy  morning  cravat,  to  be 
worn  with  a  dressing-gown,  there  is  no  place  where  an 
exquisite  could  make  a  pick  so  brilliant.  And,  for  a 
foulard  to  twist  into  a  turban,  or  put  pockets  to,  for  a 
lady's  apron,  even  Paris  could  not  show  such  wealth  of 
variety.  The  shops  are  tended  by  women,, as  in  France, 
and  most  graciously  and  courteously  it  is  done,  as  the 
money  in  your  pocket  feels  and  freely  comes  out  to  ac 
knowledge. 

Among  the  common  sights  of  the  streets  of  St. 
Pierre  are  the  negro  families  in  mourning,  on  their  way 
to  matins  or  vespers.  The  erect  and  graceful  gait 
adds  to  the  picturesqueness,  perhaps,  and  their  auto- 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          141 


credulity  or  complete  belief  in  their  own  solemnity  and 
propriety,  probably  adds  to  the  effect ;  but  they  cer 
tainly  are  groups  to  turn  and  look  after.  The  dress  is 
entirely  of  black,  with  the  exception  of  a  snow-white 
turban,  even  the  huge  gold  ear  rings  being  covered  with 
crape.  The  skin  of  the  neck  and  arms  seems  to  be  part  of 
the  "funeral  sable  "  also,  and  the  white  head-dress  is  in 
most  unbroken  and  striking  contrast.  The  going  bare 
footed,  as  is  not  inconsistent  with  a  ceremonious  toi 
lette  in  this  island,  of  course  makes  no  speck  of  white 
on  the  mo\^ng  darkness  of  form  and  petticoat. 

There  is  a  part  of  the  more  ordinary  costume  of  the 
negress  of  Martinique  which  is  less  artistic,  however. 
With  no  time  or  place  for  a  trailing  skirt,  they  still 
make  their  dresses  as  long  as  a  court  train,  and,  in  the 
street,  are  obliged  to  bring  them  round  and  hitch  them 
up  at  the  side  or  front.  The  close  cling  of  the  drapery 
behind  is  not  redeemed  by  the  sight  of  the  projecting 
heels  and  glimpses  of  black  ankles  as  they  walk — and, 
indeed,  to  all  display  of  the  beauty  of  mere  form,  the 
negress  seems  quite  insensible.  Her  chemise  sits 
loosely  about  her  chest,  and  her  waist  is  only  de 
fined  by  the  string  of  the  skirt  carelessly  tied.  This 
is  more  unaccountable,  for  so  ostentatious  a  tribe,  con 
sidering  that  the  best  models  of  Parisian  embellishment 
of  form  are  continually  before  them.  The  Creole 


142         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

white  lady  of  Martinique  dresses  with  faultless  French 
elegance. 

You  will  not  understand  me  as  portraying  the  whole, 
or  even  a  large  portion  of  the  negro  population  in  the 
specimens  which  I  thus  select  for  description.  The 
great  majority  of  the  blacks  seem  to  be  content  with  the 
merest  animal  existence,  idle,  ragged,  dirty  and  saucy. 
Emancipation  seems  to  have  degraded  the  many,  while 
it  has  elevated  the  very  few.  With  the  French  facility 
of  amalgamation  of  color,  the  more  intelligent  negroes, 
when  set  free,  found  the  way  to  respectability  easy,  and 
some  of  them  have  unquestionably  taken  advantage  of 
it ;  while,  to  most  of  them,  freedom  was  but  the  license 
to  be  as  brutal  as  their  nature  dictated,  and  viciously 
idle.  In  our  evening  walk,  yesterday,  we  came  upon  a 
group  who  were  quietly  looking  on,  while  a  stout  fellow 
was  furiously  beating  a  wroman  over  her  naked  shoul 
ders  with  a  heavy  stick ;  and  a  more  rascally  looking 
half  dozen  human  beings  I  never  saw.  The  men  and 
wromen,  as  little  clad  as  is  desirable,  lie  down  any  where 
in  the  dirt  together,  caring,  apparently,  for  nothing  on 
earth  but  the  perpetual  cigar — an  existence  which  no 
thing  but  the  liveliness  of  bad  passions  prevents  from 
being  the  most  sluggish  order  of  brainless  vegetation. 
Of  the  negro  intellect  in  activity  and  cultivation  we 
have  not  yet,  perhaps,  full  means  of  judging.  I  find 
very  contradictory  opinions  among  the  residents  here, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          143 

as  to  their  probable  progress  with  time  and  freedom — 
the  majority  declaring,  however,  that  the  negro  relapse 
into  barbarism  is  instinctive  and  inevitable,  and  that  the 
presence  of  the  white  man,  who  will  soon  be  outswarm- 
ed  and  driven  from  these  latitudes,  is  all  that  hinders 
their  sudden  and  complete  abandonment  of  the  re 
straints  of  civilization.  Some  negroes  who  returned 
educated  from  France,  by  the  way,  started  a  journal  at 
St.  Pierre.  It  lasted  about  two  years,  and  was  little 
except  a  tissue  of  personal  scurrilities.  It  was  finally 
quashed  by  suits  for  libel. 

The  periods  of  the  day,  here,  are  a  little  difficult  to 
adopt.  The  cocks  crow,  and  the  people  rise,  at  least 
an  hour  before  dawn,  though  whether  the  roosters  take 
a  compensatory  siesta  at  noon,  as  well  as  the  people,  I 
have  not  yet  inquired.  All  those  who  cough,  know  ve 
ry  well  that  there  is  a  change  in  the  air,  towards  morn 
ing,  which  starts  the  throat's  unwilling  music;  and  my 
landlady  informs  me  that  it  is  a  common  opinion,  (in 
this  land  where  window-glass  is  unknown,)  that  it  is  un 
healthy  to  sleep  for  the  two  hours  preceding  day.  So 
everybody  sees  the  stars  come  and  go.  and  half  the  bu 
siness  of  the  day  is  over  at  our  common  hour  of  rising. 
The  siesta  seems  to  rne  an  unnatural  sleep,  which  it 
takes  time  to  learn  the  trick  of,  however,  and  waking 
being  always  a  sort  of  disastrous  sensation,  it  is  a  pity 
to  make  it  come  oftener. 


144          HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE    TROPICS. 

The  tropical  insensibility  as  to  .being  looked  at,  (of 
which  I  have  before  spoken,)  adds  very  much  to  the 
pleasure  of  the  stranger.  One  likes  to  scrutinize  new 
faces  in  new  places,  and  there  is  a  certain  agreeable 
freedom  in  finding  that  a  full  indulgence  of  this  natural 
curiosity  is  not  considered  an  impertinence.  In  one  of 
my  daily  lounges  along  the  busy  water-side  of  the  har 
bor,  I  was  attracted  by  the  unlading  of  one  of  the 
coast-boats,  the  freight  of  which  appeared  to  be  mostly 
baskets  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  from  the  estates  along 
the  sea.  The  crew,  eight  or  nine  athletic  negroes, 
dressed  only  in  the  two  pocket-handkerchiefs  which 
form  the  boatman's  attire,  were  landing  these  on  the 
beach,  and  a  crowd  of  town  servants  apparently  were 
waiting  to  receive  them.  One  neat-looking  mulatto 
girl,  as  tasteful  and  attractive  in  her  costume  as  she 
could  well  be,  seemed  very  much  embarrassed  among 
the  thirty  or  forty  packages,  and  finally,  after  question- 
mo-  in  vain  several  other  servants  in  the  group,  she 
looked  around,  and  came  up  to  me,  with  a  most  easy 
and  graceful  curtesy.  "If  Monsieur  can  read  writing," 
she  said,  in  a  most  deferential  and  daintily  pronounced 
Trench,  "  will  he  please  come  and  tell  me  what  is  writ 
ten  on  a  basket?"  Her  thanks,  when  I  had  picked  out 
the  one  which  was  labelled  for  her  mistress,  were  ex 
pressed  in  the  same  modest  and  graceful  way,  and  I 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  145 

could  not  but  make  a  white  mark  for  a  country  where 
politeness  sat  so  becomingly,  even  on  servants. 

In  a  land  where  sugar  grows  there  is  no  starvation. 
After  a  walk  along  the  shore  where  the  sugar-hogs 
heads  are  perpetually  rolling,  the  sugar-mud  sticking  to 
one's  boots  \\oald  {.robtiuly  s\vt>oten  the  coffee  for  a 
family  breakfast;  and  I  observed,  that,  while  the  coop 
ers  were  heading  the  casks,  any  ragged  beggar  or  ur 
chin  was  at  liberty  to  help  himself  to  a  handfull.  Phis 
being  in  a  climate  that  requires  no  clothing,  the  two 
great  evils  of  hunger  and  nakedness  are  thus  tolerably 
lessened.  Adieu  once  more. 


LETTER    No.    16. 


EXPERIENCES    IN    APPROACHING    MAMMOTH    CAVE THE    TAV 
ERN    AT    BEAR-WALLOW,      AND     ITS     ACCOMMODATIONS A 

CARRIAGE    IN    REDUCED     CIRCUMSTANCES SPLENDORS    OF 

A     KENTUCKY     WILDERNESS DESCRIPTION     OF     MAMMOTH 

CAVE     HOTEL BREAKFAST     PARTY     AND     THEIR      UNDER 
GROUND    EXPERIENCES THE    LOST    BRIDEGROOM    AND    HIS 

RESTORATION JENNY    LIND's    GUIDE,    STEPHEN DESCRIP 
TION  OF  THIS  PICTURESQUE  CHAR.ON HIS  INTENTIONS  AS  A 

SLAVE THE  UNIFORM  PROVIDED  FOR  ENTERING  THE  CAVE 

SUGGESTION  OF  SOMETHING    MORE    PICTORIAL HISTORY 

OF    THE    OWNERSHIP     OF      THE      CAVE ITS     EXTENT,     AND 

THAT     OF      THE     ESTATE    ABOVE    GROUND FARMS    WHICH 

IT     PROBABLY     E,UNS     UNDER ATTEMPT     TO     MAKE    IT    A 

PULMONARY     HOSPITAL THE     TWO     WIVES     WHO    BURIED 

THEMSELVES     IN     THE     CAVE     WITH     THEIR    CONSUMPTIVE 
HUSBANDS TERROR  OF  A  DEATH  IN  THE  CAVE THE  LOST 

TRAVELLER COUNTY  UNDERGROUND  NOT  REPRESENTED 

SCENERY  FOR  POEMS,  ETC.  ETC. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

Mammoth  Cave,  one  may  say,  is  in  the  depths  of 
Kentucky,  far  away  from  thoroughfares  and  buried  in 
the  woods.  The  nearest  public  house  is  the  celebrated 
"  Bell's  Tavern,"  six  miles  south  ;  and  from  hence 


HEALTH      TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS.          147 

there  is  a  stage-coach  to  the  cave ;  but  the  approach 
from  any  other  direction  is  by  private  vehicle,  and 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  through  the  wilderness.  Coming 
across  the  country  from  the  North-East,  I  was  told  that 
"  Bear-wallow"  was  the  nearest  point  upon  the  stage- 
route  from  whence  a  conveyance  could  be  obtained, 
and  at  this  place  with  the  ominous  name,  I  was  dropped 
at  midnight.  Asleep  when  we  arrived,  the  coach  drove 
off  before  I  was  fairly  awake,  and  I  found  myself,  with 
my  baggage  and  a  full  moon,  in  front  of  the  only  build 
ing  anywhere  visible — a  ten-foot  shanty  with  a  single 
room  that  served  for  Post  Office  and  "  Store."  Upon 
inquiry  of  the  Postmaster,  (a  barefooted  young  gentle 
man  in  shirt  and  trousers,)  I  learned  that  there  was  one 
other  building  in  the  village,  Hare's  Tavern ;  but  as 
this,  the  house  of  his  only  neighbour,  was  nowhere  visi 
ble,  I  requested  the  Postmaster  to  show  me  the  way  to 
it.  "  No  sir-ee !"  said  he,  "  that  man  and  I  don't 
speak !  I  aint  been  tharr  in  twelve  months  !"  upon 
which  he  prepared  to  close  his  door,  leaving  me  and  my 
baggage  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  moon.  Persuad 
ing  him,  apparently  against  his  will,  to  house  my  port 
manteau  till  morning,  I  shouldered  my  carpet  bag,  and 
trudged  "just  up  the  road,"  as  directed,  till  I  came  to 
the  tavern,  where  I  was  violently  set  upon  by  two  dogs 
— and,  after  a  fight  with  sticks  and  stones  for  fifteen 
minutes,  succeeded  in  rousing  a  black  girl  from  her 


143          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

sleep,  and  gaining  admittance  and  a  bed.  I  am  giving 
you  a  very  literal  description  of  all  this,  because  great 
wonders  throw  a  charm  over  their  neighbourhoods,  and 
one  must  tell  how  Mammoth  Cave  is  approached,  as 
Mr.  James  describes  no  castle,  without  first  telling  how 
"  a  horseman  was  seen  winding  up  the  avenue." 

Spite  of  the  dog-welcome  given  to  the  traveller,  Bear- 
wallow  Tavern  is  liberally  and  kindly  kept.     A  negro 
came  into  my  room  in  the  morning  with  a  large  tub  of 
water,  (a  bathing  luxury  not  common  even  in  more  fre 
quented  places,)  the  breakfast  set  for  me   alone  would 
have  fed  twenty  persons,   and  the  society  of  the  landla 
dy  and  her  head  man  was  thrown  in — charge  for  lodg 
ing,  bath,  breakfast,  and  the  conversation  of  two  very 
agreeable  persons,  only  fifty  cents.     The   large,  grassy 
front  yard  is  nicely  shaded,  the  bed-rooms  spacious,  the 
parlour  well-furnished.     As  one  of  those  solitary  inns 
for  which  a  man  sometimes  sighs,  where  he  may  go  to 
"  forget  and  be  forgotten"  (for  a  week,)  this  seemed  to 
me  worthy  of  a  memorandum.     Bear-wallow,  I  should 
add,  w^as    named   by   the  hunters,   and   was  formerly 
known  as  the  greatest  resort  in  Kentucky  for  bears. — 
They  came  to  wallow  in  the  mud   of  the  ponds  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

The  sixteen  miles  through  the  woods,  from  Bear- 
wallow  to  the  cave,  would  be  the  most  beautiful  of 
rides  on  horseback,  but  a  rougher  track  for  wheels 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.  149 

could  scarcely  be  imagined.  My  conveyance  had  seen 
better  days.  Its  torn  curtains  and  shabby  panels  told 
the  story  of  "  reduced  circumstances,"  though  to  which 
of  those  numerous  "  first  families  of  Kentucky  "  it  had 
once  been  the  pride  and  glory,  my  black  driver  w#s 
unable  to  tell.  Under  miles  of  beach  trees,  every  third 
one  an  unsung  monarch — through  orchestras  of  mock 
ing-birds  and  thrushes — over  rocks,  stumps,  and  gullies, 
and  through  streams  and  quagmires — we  made  our  va 
ried  way.  it  was  an  interesting  ride — for  one  never 
tires  of  the  primitive  wilderness  with  its  fragmented 
sublimities  and  splendid  accidents  of  beauty — but  the 
sight  of  the  more  civilized  looking  fence,  which  beto 
kened  an  approach  to  the  place  of  our  destination,  was 
a  considerable  relief.  Those  who  come  to  the  Mam 
moth  Cave  must  prepare  for  rough  riding. 

"We  emerged  directly  from  the  woods  upon  a  great 
mass  of  irregular  building — like  two  streets  of  log 
houses  shoved  up  close,  and  added  on  to  a  two-story 
tavern — and  this  clapboarded  and  porticoed  heap  seem 
ed  islanded  in  the  forest.  Its  acre  or  two  of  courtyard 
was  surrounded  by  an  ocean  of  foliage,  and  the  whole 
place  looked  like  a  village  that  had  crowded  together 
from  a  sense  of  loneliness.  Not  a  soul  visible.  The 
visiters,  if  there  were  any,  were  probably  underground. 
But  my  driving  up  to  the  door  brought  out  the  mam 
moth  landlord — a  towering  and  broad-shouldered  Ken- 


150          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

tuckian,  with  a  very  kind  and  hospitable  face — and  I 
was  soon  installed  in  a  clean  room  with  broken  windows 
and  no  handle  to  the  door,  and  as  comfortable  as 
need  be. 

9At  breakfast,  the  next  morning,  I  met  a  party  of 
five — two  ladies  and  three  gentlemen — for  whose  re 
appearance  from  the  nether  world  we  had  "  waited  tea" 
the  night  before,  but  who  had  not  returned  till  after 
bed-time,  their  under-ground  pilgrimage  having  occu 
pied  all  day  and  part  of  the  night.  They  had  penetra 
ted  nine  miles  under  ground — an  eighteen-mile  walk,  in 
and  out — and  their  exchange  of  enthusiasms  and  felicit 
ations,  recounting  of  adventures  and  recalling  of  splen 
dours  and  wonders,  was  all  very  exciting  to  the  curios 
ity.  One  of  the  gentlemen,  an  elderly  Boston  mer 
chant,  was  something  of  an  invalid,  and  he  had  achieved 
this  wonderful  walk  very  much  to  his  own  astonishment 
— attributing  his  unforeseen  energies  partly  to  the  exci 
ting  interest  of  the  scene,  and  partly  to  the  cool  and  sus 
taining  dryness  of  th*  air.  To  my  own  damaged  chest 
and  weak  limbs  this  was  very  encouraging— though  in 
stances  were  mentioned  of  travellers  whose  strength 
had  failed  them,  and  this  when  they  were  in  so  far  that 
it  was  very  difficult  to  get  them  out.  A  newly  married 
man,  among  others,  had  left  his  bride  above  ground — 
and,  passing  the  Styx,  (the  cave's  subterranean  river,) 
had  penetrated  six  miles  when  he  fainted  from  exhaus- 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS.          151 

tion.  The  famous  guide,  Stephen,  (of  whom  honoura 
ble  mention  is  made  in  Benedict's  account  of  Jenny 
Lind's  visit,  and  every  other  description  of  the  cave,) 
actually  brought  him  back,  six  miles,  in  his  arms ; 
though,  considering  the  ladders  to  go  up  and  down,  the 
holes  to  creep  through,  the  crags  to  climb,  the  rivers 
and  lakes  to  navigate,  the  slippery  abysses  to  edge 
around,  and  the  long  passages  in  which  it  is  impossible 
to  walk  upright,  it  was  considered  almost  a  miracle.  It 
seemed  a  pity  that  they  did  not  give  the  bride  an  oppor 
tunity  to  make  a  new  version  of  the  story  of  Eurydice, 
by  summoning  her  to  cross  the  Styx  and  bring  out  her 
Orpheus.  Things  come  so  provokingly  near  being  ro 
mantic,  sometimes,  in  these  common-place  days  ! 

The  ladies  of  this  party  were  talking  with  a  very  pic 
turesque-looking  personage,  after  breakfast,  and  he  was 
presently  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  charon  of  the  Ken 
tucky  Styx — the  remarkable  "  Stephen."  As  this  was 
the  man  who  was  to  take  me  to  "  Lethe,"  (and  bring 
me  back  again  !)  ferry  me  over  the  "  Styx,"  and  show 
rne,  on  the  way,  such  wonders  as  "  Purgatory,"  and 
the  "  Bottomless  Pit,"  (names  of  different  portions  of 
the  cave)  I  was  interested  to  see  him.  I  stepped  up  and 
joined  the  group,  and  the  first  glance  told  me  that  Ste 
phen  was  better  worth  looking  at  than  most  celebrities. 
He  is  a  slave,  part  mulatto  and  part  Indian,  but  with 
more  of  the  physiognomy  of  a  Spaniard — his  masses 


152          HEALTH     TR.IP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

of  black  hair  curling  slightly  and  gracefully,  and  his 
long  mustache  giving  quite  a  Castilian  air  to  his  dark 
skin.  He  is  of  middle  size,  but  built  for  an  athletic — 
with  broad  chest  and  shoulders,  narrow  hips,  and  legs 
slightly  bowed,  and  he  is  famous  for  the  dexterity  and 
bodily  strength  which  are  very  necessary  to  his  voca 
tion.  The  cave  is  a  wonder  which  draws  "  good  soci 
ety,"  and  Stephen  shows  that  he  is  used  to  it.  His  in 
telligent  face  is  assured  and  tranquil,  and  his  manners 
particularly  quiet-Mind  he  talks  to  charming  ladies  with 
the  air  of  a  man  who  is  accustomed  to  their  good  will, 
and  attentive  listening.  The  dress  of  the  renowned 
guide  is  adapted  to  dark  places  and  rough  work.  He 
wears  a  chocolate-coloured  slouched  hat,  a  green  jacket 
and  striped  trousers,  and  evidently  takes  no  thought 
of  his  appearance.  He  is  married.  His  wife  is  the 
pretty  mulatto  chambermaid  of  the  Hotel  He  has  one 
boy,  takes  a  newspaper,  studies  geology,  and  means  to 
go  to  Liberia  as  soon  as  he  can  buy  his  wife,  child  and 
self  from  his  present  master.  After  sixteen  years'  expe 
rience  as  guide  to  the  cave,  he  is  anxious  to  try  his  hand 
at  some  one  of  the  above-ground  ambitions.  I  would 
warrant  him  success  wherever  the  specific  gravity  of 
merit  has  a  fair  chance.  He  has  tact,  talent,  and  good 
address.  You  see  I  am  getting  a  little  before  my  story 
and  giving  you  some  of  my  after  knowledge  of  Stephen 
— but  I  wish  you  to  comprehend  why  he  figures  so 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.  153 

prominently  in  my  own  and  other  descriptions  of  this 
subterranean  Switzerland;  and  he  is  so  likely  to  be 
heard  of,  some  day,  as  President  of  Liberia  or  Ambas 
sador  from  St.  Domingo,  that  his  portraiture  cannot  be 
wisely  slighted. 

There  is  an  extraordinary  uniform  provided  by  the 
Hotel  for  visitors  to  the  Cave.  At  one  end  of  the  long 
hall  is  a  row  of  pegs,  where.hang  the  articles  for  ladies, 
and  at  the  other  end  are  pegs  for  gentlemen.  You  are 
directed  to  go  up  stairs  and  equip  yourself  before  start 
ing.  I  cannot  say  that  the  dress  is  becoming.  A 
stuffed  skull-cap  of  mustard-coloured  flannel,  is  worn 
by  ladies  to  guard  them  from  knocks  on  the  head  where 
the  cave  is  low.  Then  "  Lethe"  and  "  Purgatory"  be 
ing  muddy  and  slippery  places,  and  the  ladders  to 
"  Fat  Man's  Misery"  and  "  Bottomless  Pit"  being  wet 
and  perpendicular,  short-skirted  petticoats  of  this  same 
mustard-coloured  flannel  are  provided,  to  be  worn  with 
trousers  of  the  same,  or  Bloomers  of  the  lady's  own. 
Gentlemen  wear  the  skull  cap  sometimes,  and  a  short 
devil-may-care  is  very  generally  worn — all  of  the  same 
unpleasant  yellow — the  crouchings  in  the  wet  boats, 
where  the  river  roof  is  low,  and  the  lying  on  the  back 
to  see  the  "  Milky  Way"  to  more  advantage,  being 
dirty  work  for  coats  In  the  two  or  three  days  that  T 
remained  at  the  Hotel,  I  saw  several  parties  start  for 
the  cave  in  this  singular  costume,  and  the  effect  of  their 


154          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

procession  out  of  the  grounds,  I  must  say,  was  very 
funny,  though  it  so  happened  that  the  ladies  were  too 
pretty  to  be  made  to  look  unsightly,  even  by  ugly  head 
gear  and  unaccustomed  Bloomers.  I  should  like  to 
make  a  suggestion  to  visiters  to  the  cave,  however.  In 
the  dark  pictures  which  impress  them  so  powerfully, 
while  under  ground,  their  own  party  form  the  figures 
of  the  foreground.  A  dozen  or  more  persons,  each  one 
with  a  lamp,  passing  in  slow  procession  through  those 
gloomy  halls  and  corridors,  add  prodigiously  to  the 
effect  of  the  perspective,  and  one  need  not  be  a  painter 
to  understand  how  much  the  picturesqueness  might  be 
aided  by  something  pictorial  in  the  costume.  A  slouched 
hat  and  plume  instead  of  the  skull  cap,  and  short  coats 
instead  of  those  disfiguring  frocks,  would  add  essentially 
to  the  pleasure  and  beauty  of  the  pilgrimage. 

This  preparatory  information  has  spun  out  till  I  see 
that  I  shall  not  have  room  for  a  description  of  the  cave 
itself.  I  will  save  it  for  another  letter,  adding  to  this 
an  item  or  two  more  of  the  lesser  history  of  the  great 
wonder — such,  at  least,  as  I  picked  up  in  stage-coaches 
and  table-talk  on  the  way  thither. 

Col.  Croghan,  to  whose  family  it  belongs,  was  a  re 
sident  of  Louisville.  He  went  to  Europe  some  twenty 
years  ago,  and,  as  an  American,  found  himself  frequent 
ly  questioned  of  the  wonders  of  Mammoth  Cave — a 
place  he  had  never  visited,  and  of  which,  at  home 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          155 

though  living  within  ninety  miles  of  it,  he  had  heard 
very  little.  He  went  there  immediately  on  his  return 
and  the  idea  struck  him  to  purchase  and  make  it  a  fam 
ily  inheritance.  In  fifteen  minutes'  bargaining,  he 
bought  it  for  $10,000 — though,  shortly  after,  he  was 
offered  $100,000  for  his  purchase.  In  his  will,  he  tied 
it  up  in  such  a  way,  that  it  must  remain  in  his  family 
for  two  generations,  thus  appending  its  celebrity  to  his 
name.  There  are  nineteen  hundred  acres  in  the  estate 
— three  square  miles  above  ground — though  the  cave 
probably  runs  under  the  property  of  a  great  number  of 
other  land-owners.  For  fear  of  those  who  might  dig 
down  and*  establish  an  entrance  to  the  cave  on  their  own 
property — (a  man's  farm  extending  up  to  the  zenith  and 
down  to  the  nadir) — great  vigilance  is  exercised  to  pre 
vent  such  subterranean  surveys  and  measurements  as 
would  enable  them  to  sink  a  shaft  with  any  certainty. 
The  cave  extends  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  several  direc 
tions,  and  there  is  probably  many  a  backwoodsman  sit 
ting  in  his  log-hut  within  ten  miles  of  the  cave,  quite 
unconscious  that  the  most  fashionable  ladies  and  gen 
tlemen  of  Europe  and  America  are  walking,  without 
leave,  under  his  corn  and  potatoes ! 

The  equable  air,  and  the  good  health  of  the  miners, 
who  were  at  one  time  employed  in  digging  saltpetre 
from  near  the  entrance,  started  an  idea,  some  time 
since,  that  a  hospital  for  consumptive  patients  might  be 


156         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

profitably  established  in  the  cave.  Stone  huts  were 
accord ingly  constructed,  in  the  dark  halls  beyond  the 
reach  of  external  air,  and,  among  those  who  tried  the 
experiment,  were  two  consumptive  gentlemen,  who 
with  their  two  healthy  wives,  passed  six  weeks  in  hideous 
seclusion  from  daylight.  One  of  the  gentlemen  died 
there,  and  the  other  received  no  benefit — but  the  devo 
tion  of  those  voluntarily  buried  wives  should  chronicle 
their  names  in  the  cave's  history.  Another  patient, 
who  went  in  and  remained  some  weeks,  was  attended 
by  friends  and  a  servant — but,  his  end  approaching,  the 
death-scene  in  that  dark  and  silent  abyss  became  so  ap 
palling,  that  they  fled  in  terror — friends  and  servant — 
and  left  the  dying  man  alone.  Nothing  could  induce 
them  to  return,  and,  when  others  went  in,  the  poor  man 
was  found  dead  with  an  expression  of  indescribable  hor 
ror  upon  his  features.  Those  who  have  seen  these 
dreary  huts,  miles  away  from  the  sunshine — who  have 
smelt  the  grave-like  air,  barren  of  the  pervading  vitality 
which  vegetation  gives  the  atmosphere  above  ground — 
and  who  have  realized  the  intense  Silence  and  Darkness 
that  reign  there  like  monsters  whose  presence  is  felt — 
can  appreciate  the  horror  of  being  left  alone  at  the  last 
hour  in  such  a  place. 

The  side  avenues  of  the  cave,  into  which  visiters  are 
not  usually  taken,  are  said  to  be  labyrinths  of  intermin 
able  perplexity,  and  the  guides  are  instructed  to  let 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  157 

none  enter  them  alone.  A  gentleman  \vho  left  his  par 
ty  a  year  or  two  ago,  and  ventured  to  explore  for  him 
self,  lost  his  way,  and  was  only  found  by  Stephen,  after 
many  long  and  vain  searches.  He  had  stumbled  and 
put  out  his  lamp,  and  had  been  forty-three  hours  alone 
in  the  darkness.  When  discovered,  he  was  lying  on 
his  face,  benumbed  and  insensible.  Stephen  brought 
him  out,  several  miles,  upon  his  back,  and  he  recovered 
— but  he  had  had  the  experience  of  a  death  in  darkness 
and  solitude. 

The  Mammoth  Cave  is  as  large  as  a  county,  but  hav 
ing  another  county  on  top  of  it,  it  is  not  represented 
I  believe,  in  the  Kentucky  Legislature.  In  the  coun 
try's  literature  it  will  be  strongly  represented,  some 
day — for  there  is  scenery  for  a  magnificent  poem — a 
new  Dante's  Inferno — in  its  wondrous  depths.  It  is  a 
Western  prairie  of  imagination — still  wild  and  unoccu 
pied. 


LETTER    No,  17, 


DESCENT    INTO    MAMMOTH  CAVE CHANCE    COMPANIONS,    AND 

THEIR  CORRECTION    OF    EACH    OTHER'S  IMPRESSIONS THE 

GUIDE'S  BASKET    WITH    ITS    AIDS    TO     ENTHUSIASM FUNNY 

LOOK  OF  PARTY  IN  MUSTARD-COLOURED  COSTUME EN 
TRANCE  TO  THE  CAVE REALIZED  VALUE  OF  THE  DAY  TO 

BE  LOST FIRST  HALF  MILE STRANGE  ATMOSPHERE,  AND 

DREARY  LOSS  OF  £MELL  OP  VEGETATION FIRST  DISAP 
POINTMENT  OVERCOME GORIN'S  DOME CURIOUS  IMMOR 
TALIZING  OF  A  MASTER  BY  HIS  SLAVE WONDERS  OF  E.OCK 

DRAPERY EMBARRASSMENT    OF    MULTIPLIED    OBJECTS    OF 

ADMIRATION STRANGE  IMPRESSION  MADE  ON    THE    FANCY 

BY  THE  MAMMOTH  CAVE ITS  ARCHITECTURAL  CHARACTER 

AN  ANTEDILUVIAN  HERCULANEUM DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE 

WAY THE     STYX LETHE     AND     ITS     BOAT PLACE      FOR 

ADIEU,  ETC.  ETC. 

Mammoth  Cave,  June. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

After  luxuriating  a  day  or  two  in  the  blessedly  un- 
catechised  idleness  of  a  tree  in  the  woods,  expecting  a 
party  of  friends  who  were  to  accompany  me  under 
ground,  I  gave  up  the  hope  of  their  coming,  and  joined 
the  Monday's  chance  gathering  of  travellers.  They 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          159 

were  five — one  lady  and  her  husband  from  Nashville, 
one  French  gentleman  from  New  Orleans,  a  Boston 
merchant,  and  the  Danish  Professor  Koeppen,  whose 
Lectures  you  may  have  seen  reported  in  the  Picayune 
We  were  quite  a  miscellany,  as  to  local  origin,  habits, 
and  experience ;  yet,  as  my  companions  \vere  all  very 
cultivated  people,  I  rejoiced  in  the  correctives  we  were 
likely  to  be  to  each  other's  impressions,  and  was  made 
more  sure  of  not  being  misled  by  novelty  and  enthusi 
asm,  and  of  discovering,  by  the  variety  of  minds 
what  was  truly  beautiful  in  what  we  were  to  see. 

I  looked  with  some  interest  at  Stephen's  basket.  To 
walk  eighteen  miles,  on  a  common  road,  I  should  sim 
ply  have  thought  impossible ;  but  here  were  eighteen 
miles  of  pathway  over  broken  rocks  to  be  traversed 
lamp  in  hand — ladders  to  be  ascended  and  descended, 
precipices  to  be  climbed,  half-mile  holes  to  be  crept 
through,  tight  places  to  be  squeezed  in  and  out  of,  crags 
to  be  scaled,  hanging  rocks  to  be  crawled  under,  and 
chasms  to  be  scrambled  over — all  by  the  aid  of  excite 
ment  from  sublime  objects.  With  every  reasonable 
confidence  in  this  stimulus,  I  ventured  to  hope  that 
Stephen  had  provided  ham  and  chickens  also.  The 
white  towel  in  the  basket,  I  found,  upon  inquiry,  cov 
ered  a  generous  supply  of  these  less  capricious  sustain- 
ers  of  the  system.  There  was  also  a  bottle — contents 
confidential.  Stephen's  history  afforded  a  grain  of 


160          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

comfort,  besides.  He  had  brought  out,  upon  his  back, 
two  gentlemen  from  the  innermost  depths  of  the 
cave ;  and  into  the  weight  of  these  I  made  a  precau 
tionary  inquiry.  One  weighed  180  pounds,  the  other 
165.  My  own  avoirdupois  being  only  135  pounds,  I 
could  make  sure  of  coming  to  light  again,  even  should 
the  sublimity  and  the  cold  chicken  fail  to  sustain  me. 

Time  is  less  pressing  when  there  is  to  be  no  sunset 
to  tell  how  it  passes,  and  our  party  for  the  dark  re 
gions  were  a  little  slow  in  making  their  appearance. 
The  reluctance  to  appear  in  the  mustard-coloured 
costume  added  a  little  to  the  delay,  perhaps.  We 
were  all  mustered,  at  last,  however,  and  I  presume  no 
one  of  us,  as  he  fell  into  the  procession  behind  Ste 
phen,  would  have  liked  to  have  been  seen  by  the  gen 
tleman  destined  to  write  his  "  obituary  notice."  Ir 
ving  himself  would  be  unidealized  and  ludicrous,  de 
scribed  in  such  a  costume.  Exception  must  be  made 
in  the  lady's  favour,  only — for  the  Bloomers  and  oth 
er  changes  gave  a  look  of  charming  espieglerie  to 
her  appearance,  and  we  felt  our  descent  to  the  Styx 
very  much  graced  by  her  company. 

After  leaving  the  house,  we  turned  down  a  pretty 
ravine,  and,  on  the  right  of  the  descent,  came  present 
ly  to  a  hole  in  the  earth,  which  we  might  have  passed 
without  noticing,  as  it  was  somewhat  hidden  by  over 
hanging  trees  and  creepers,  and  the  entrance  was  a 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          161 

short  turn  backwards,  under  the  way  we  had  come. — • 
The  first  subterranean  hall,  indeed,  is  said  to  be  direct 
ly  under  the  dining-room  of  the  hotel. 

The  lighting  of  our  lamps  occupied  a  few  minutes — 
and  as  the  day  was  one  we  were  to  see  no  more  of,  I 
could  not  help  taking  particular  notice  of  its  beauty.  It 
was  the  first  warm  and  sunny  morning,  after  rather  a 
chilly  week,  and  to  let  so  sweet  a  day  suddenly  pass 
unenjoyed  into  a  yesterday,  gave  one  a  feeling  of  regret 
which  made  its  balm  and  beauty  more  delicious.  From 
the  air  of  the  cave,  meantime,  we  all  turned  back,  as  it 
came  up  in  a  strong  current  several  degrees  colder  than 
the  atmosphere  around  us. 

Stephen  took  the  basket  of  provisions  on  his  arm, 
slung  his  canister  of  oil  over  his  shoulder,  and  gave  us 
our  lamps — the  poor  little  flames  that  were  to  light  our 
way  through  such  labyrinths  of  darkness,  shining  very 
dimly  in  the  brilliant  sunshine.  Down  the  steps  into 
the  darkness  went  the  chocolate-coloured  slouched  hat 
we  were  to  follow,  down  went  the  pretty  feet  in  their 
Bloomers,  down  went  the  mustached  Professor,  the 
respectable  merchant  and  the  elegant  Frenchman — each 
with  his  lamp  swinging  in  its  wire  socket,  and  growing 
brighter  as  the  gloom  thickened — and  I  followed,  with 
a  cough  which  protested  bitterly  against  the  cold  wind 
coming  to  meet  us. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rough  stone  staircase  we  entered 


162         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

upon  a  tolerably  level  road,  marked  with  wheel  tracks, 
and  hemmed  in  with  a  wall  of  the  loose  stones  removed 
to  make  it;  and  this,  with  other  belongings  of  the  salt 
petre  works  formerly  carried  on  near  the  entrance  of  the 
cave,  occupied  the  first  half  mile.  The  cavity  which  we 
were  pursuing  was  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high,  enlarg 
ing  once  or  twice  into  roomy  openings,  fancifully  named 
— such  as  The  Rotunda,  Kentucky  Cliffs,  Gothic  Gal 
leries,  etc. — all  very  dingy  and  gloomy-looking  places, 
to  eyes  fresh  from  the  sunshine,  though  grand  when  one 
remembers  where  they  are3  and  for  what  ages  of  gloom 
their  vast  solitudes  have  been  unsunned  and  unvisited. 
This  part  of  the  cavern  is  less  striking,  to  casual  obser 
vation,  from  the  smoke  and  dust  which  the  pursuits  of 
mining  industry  have  left  upon  the  walls.  It  looks 
more  like  a  succession  of  vast  old  warehouses,  abandon 
ed  to  dirt  and  cobwebs,  than  like  the  structures  whose 
fine  names  have  been  given  to  it. 

The  air  had,  after  the  first  half  mile  from  the  en 
trance,  become  perfectly  dry.  So  hushed  with  still 
ness,  too,  I  could  easily  understand  why  its  unvarying 
temperature  and  tranquility  had  been  prescribed  for 
the  invalid.  Yet  its  quality  was  disagreeable  to  me, 
from  the  strange  absence  of  the  smell  of  vegetation.  I 
had  never  before  realized  how  much  the  common  air  is 
impregnated  with  the  scarce-recognised  perfume  of 
grass  and  leaves.  The  cave  seemed  to  have  the  skele- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  163 

ton  of  air  without  its  flesh  and  blood — an  underground-y 
and  sepulchral  dryness,  wholly  destitute  of  the  cheerful 
vitality  of  the  common  atmosphere.  At  the  same  time 
that  my  lungs  made  no  complaint,  and  I  had  less  dispo 
sition  to  cough  than  usual,  my  nose,  (or  the  nose  of  my 
imagination,)  longed  for  a  sniff  of  common  earth,  with 
roots  and  weeds  which  the  sun  had  shone  upon.  A 
mile  or  two  farther  in,  we  found  a  sprig  or  two  of  mint 
upon  a  rock — the  remainder  of  a  julep,  intended  or  per 
petrated,  by  a  party  who  had  preceded  us — and  its 
homely  and  sunny-bank  fragrance  was  indescribably 
welcome — welcome  as  a  spring  in  the  desert. 

Whereabouts  the  feeling  of  disappointment  ceased, 
and  I  began  to  feel  the  sublime  presence  of  the  Spirit 
of  the  Cave,  I  could  not  definitely  say.  But,  after 
hearing  Stephen  discourse  eloquently  of  a  mile  or  more 
of  successive  wonders,  and  regretting  that  I  felt  some 
how  less  enthusiastic  than  he  seemed  to  expect,  I  found 
myself  stopping  still  with  surprise  at  the  wonderfully 
new  kind  of  places  that  we  came  to.  Life's  new  sensa 
tions  are  few  and  precious.  Here  was  one — a  discov 
ery  that  there  were  places,  of  which  I  had  never  before 
conceived  the  character  and  existence — utter  novelties 
— effects  of  form,  structure,  space  and  combination, 
which  were  strangely  unexpected,  at  the  same  time  that 
they  flooded,  satiated,  staggered,  the  craving  sense  of 
the  love  of  the  wonderful.  What  they  call  "  Gorm's 


164          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

Dome,"  was  the  first  point  where  I  openly  acknowledg 
ed  this  victory  of  the  Cave  over  my  incredulity.  The 
approach  to  it  was  by  a  long  and  narrow  passage 
through  the  rock,  Stephen  telling  me,  on  the  way,  that 
he  had  named  the  Dome  for  his  former  owner,  Mr.  Go- 
rin,  and  that  Mr.  Gorin  had  once  taken  him  to  Louisi 
ana  to  sell,  but  brought  him  back  because  nobody 
would  give  him  'eleven  hundred  dollars  for  him.  I  was 
stumbling  along  by  the  light  of  my  flickering  light, 
musing  how  oddly  a  man  might  chance  to  have  a  Dome 
named  after  him,  and  how  a  handsome  and  intelligent 
fellow  might  be  too  dear  at  $1,100,  when  we  stopped 
before  a  hole  in  the  wall.  Here  our  guide  left  us,  re. 
questing  us  to  wait  for  a  moment  till  he  could  light  up 
the  Dome. 

"We  stood  wondering  how  a  "  Dome"  could  be  pro 
duced  out  of  a  corner  in  the  cave  where  we  could 
scarcely  find  room  to  stand,  when  a  light  began  to  shine 
in  upon  us  through  the  hole  in  the  wall,  and  Stephen 
called  to  us  to  look  through,  one  by  one.  In  my  turn 
I  put  my  head  out  of  the  rocky  window.  He  was  hold 
ing  up,  and  throwing  down,  sheets  of  medicated  paper, 
commonly  known  as  "  Bengal  light,"  which  produced 
a  brilliant  illumination  above  and  below.  I  looked  down 
first  into  a  profound  abyss,  and  then  up  to  a  height  of 
which  I  could  see  no  termination,  and  it  was  hard  to 
realize  that  such  vast  depths  and  altitudes  were  all  un- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  165 

der  ground — graves  dug  and  trees  growing  far  over 
head — but  it  was  not  the  extent  upward  and  down 
ward  that  formed  its  novelty  and  beauty.  It  was  like 
a  steeple  built  over  a  gulf,  but  both  steeple  and  gulf 
seemed  curtained  with  uncut  velvet  of  creamy  richness, 
fringed  at  all  its  folds  and  edges  with  elaborate  embroi 
dery.  The  stalactical  ooze  which  had  been  employed 
since  the  Deluge,  or  since  creation,  in  draping  and  em 
bellishing  this  cavernous  temple,  had  fallen  in  fluted 
folds,  like  the  most  massive  yet  artistic  drapery,  and 
with  its  superb  doublings  and  overlayings,  it  was  in 
deed  the  upholstery  of  giants.  A  tyrant  would  forbid 
his  courtiers  to  see  such  a  place,  for  the  contrast  would 
impoverish  his  grandeur.  The  damask  and  velvet  of  a 
throne  would  look  scanty  and  poor  after  it.  Height 
and  depth  together,  this  magnificent  Dome  measures 
three  hundred  feet,  and  the  window  through  which  we 
saw  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  from  the  bottom. 
The  path  to  it,  from  the  entrance  of  the  care,  is  about 
two  miles. 

I  have  omitted  a  whole  mile  of  the  wonders  of  sub 
terranean  architecture,  and,  indeed,  I  have  no  inten 
tion  of  giving  you  a  detailed  description  of  the  cave.  In 
the  language  of  Appleton's  Guide-Book,  "it  is  said  to 
contain  226  avenues,  47  domes,  numerous  rivers,  8  cata 
racts,  and  23  pits;"  and  Stephen  estimates  the  aggre 
gate  length  of  the  different  corridors  that  branch  off  at 


1 GG          HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS. 

the  sides,  (most  of  which  are  not  visited  by  travellers,) 
at  several  hundred  miles.  Every  rood  has  something 
to  wonder  at.  Every  eighth-of-a-mile  has  some  mira 
cle  which  it  would  take  a  newspaper  column  to  de 
scribe.  Adjectives  would  give  out,  if  your  patience 
did  not.  I  think  I  shall  try,  mainly,  to  convey  to 
you  the  impression  which  the  visit  to  the  cave  made 
upon  me — using  as  much  special  description  as  is  ne 
cessary  for  this ;  but  referring  you  to  the  Guide  Books 
for  a  detailed  account  of  its  wonders. 

That  the  Mammoth  Cave  is  an  antiquity  of  the  world 
before  the  Flood — a  city  of  giants  which  an  earthquake 
swallowed,  and  which  a  chance  roof  of  rocks  has  pro 
tected  from  being  effaced  by  the  Deluge  and  by  the 
wear  of  the  elements  for  subsequent  ages — is  one  of 
the  fancies  which  its  strange  phenomena  force  upon 
the  mind.  All  is  so  architectural.  It  is  not  a  vast  un 
derground  cavity,  raw  and  dirty,  but  a  succession  of 
halls,  domes  and  corridors,  streets,  avenues  and  arches 
— all  under  ground,  but  all  telling  of  the  design  and  pro 
portion  of  a  majestic  primeval  metropolis.  It  is  not  a 
cave,  but  a  city  in  ruins — a  city  from  which  sun, 
moon  and  stars  have  been  taken  away — whose  day 
of  judgment  has  come  and  passed,  and  over  which  a 
new  world  been  created  and  grown  old.  By  what 
admirable  laws  of  unknown  architecture  those  mam 
moth  roofs  and  ceilings  are  upheld,  is  every  travel- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  167 

ler's  wondering  question.  In  some  shape  or  other,  I 
heard  each  of  my  companions  express  this.  No  mod 
ern  builder  could  throw  up  such  vast  vaulted  arches, 
and  so  unaccountably  sustain  them.  And  all  else  is 
in  keeping.  The  cornices  and  columns,  aisles  and  gal 
leries,  are  gigantically  proportionate  ;  and  as  mysteri 
ously  upheld.  Streets  after  streets — miles  after  miles 
— seem  to  have  been  left  only  half  in  ruins — and 
here  and  there  is  an  effect  as  if  the  basements  and 
lower  stories  were  encumbered  with  fragments  and 
rubbish,  leaving  you  to  walk  on  a  level,  with  the 
capitals  and  floors  once  high  above  the  pavement. — 
It  might  be  described  as  a  mammoth  Herculaneum, 
first  sepulchred  with  over-toppling  mountains,  but 
swept  and  choked  afterwards  by  the  waters  of  the 
Deluge,  that  found  their  way  to  its  dark  streets  in  their 
subsiding.  AVhat  scenery  and  machinery  all  this  will 
be  for  the  poets  of  the  West,  by  and  by  !  Their  Par 
nassus  is  "  a  house  ready  furnished." 

We  were  walking,  meantime,  \v7ith  feet  constructed 
since  Adam  and  Eve,  and  the  roughness  of  the  way 
was  very  modern  and  unendurable.  Up  hill  and  down 
dale,  (and  there  was  a  great  deal  of  ascending  and  de 
scending,)  every  step  had  to  be  picked  over  broken 
rocks,  by  the  light  of  the  lamp  ;  and,  whe-re  there  was 
so  much  to  be  seen  above  and  around  us,  the  careless 
steps  were  many,  and  the  twists  and  scratches  abun- 


168          HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE    TROPICS. 

dant.  Now  and  then  we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  ladder 
and  a  sort  of  ascent  up  a  chimney  was  to  be  performed 
by  the  very  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  had  just  been 
wondering  at  the  sublimities  of  their  route.  Or,  there 
was  a  ladder  to  lead  us  more  pokerishly  downward. 
One  place,  called  "  the  Fat  Man's  Misery,"  was  the 
mere  zigzag  through  cracks  in  the  rock.  Another  was 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  called  "  the  Valley  of  Humility," 
along  which  we  almost  crept  upon  hands  and  knees,  the 
ceiling  was  so  low.  "  Great  Relief"  is  the  name  of 
the  avenue  which  immediately  succeeds  this,  and  then 
comes  the  "  Bottomless  Pit,"  over  which  there  is  a 
comfortable  new  bridge,  with  cedar  posts,  as  passable 
as  the  most  sanguine  sinner  could  desire. 

The  impression  that,  by  this  time,  you  are  as  deep 
down  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth  as  you  could  well  go, 
prepares  you  for  a  surprise  when  the  path  comes  to  the 
brink  of  "  The  Styx,"  and  you  look  over  into  a  profun 
dity  of  darkness  and  hear  the  stone  which  is  thrown  in, 
splash,  far  below,  and  echo  up  from  a  vsst  cavern  of 
stillness.  This  far-down  subterranean  river  is  disclosed 
as  if  through  the  merest  chance,  by  a  cleft  in  the  rocky 
roof  that  shuts  it  in,  and  it  seems  an  abyss  unfathoma 
ble — one  that,  with  its  very  look,  asks  to  be  left 
alone  with  its  secrets.  None  who  have  ever  gazed 
into  its  black  depths  are  likely  to  forget  them. 
They  have  come  back  upon  traveller's  dreams,  ] 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  169 

venture  to  say,  with  every  lobster  salad's  beckoning 
finger. 

From  "  The  Styx "  to  "  Lethe  "  is  a  short  walk. 
It  is  by  a  gradual  and  easy  descent,  and,  as  its  un- 
rippling  waters  stop  the  way,  it  is  here  that  a  boat  is 
taken  to  go  farther  on.  My  companions  seemed  glad 
to  set  down  their  lamps — blest  with  the  idea  of,  at 
least,  some  new  mode  of  conveyance.  The  three  miles 
of  climbing,  scrambling  and  wandering,  had  given  me 
some  premonitory  symptoms  of  fatigue.  I  began  to 
wonder  how  far  on  the  other  side  of  Lethe  we 
should  get  something  to  refresh  the  mortal  appetite 
that  might  remain  to  us.  For  six  miles  beyond  that 
black  stream,  our  journey  was  yet  to  continue,  but,  as 
the  extremest  mile  was  said  to  reveal  the  greatest 
wonders,  I  felt  no  disposition  to  turn  back — the  din 
ner,  which  we  were  to  eat  at  the  far  end,  adding  (I 
am  free  to  confess)  its  modest  encouragement  to  my 
enthusiasm. 

But  my  letter  is  getting  long,  and  Lethe's  brink 
is  a  good  place  for  an  adieu.  While  the  guide  is 
embarking  his  basket  and  his  canister  of  oil,  I  will 
drop  the  curtain  trusting  that  you  will  look  for  my  ex 
periences  beyond  Lethe,  spite  of  the  forgetfulness  w7ith 
which  those  commonly  turn  back  who  here  take  their 
leave  of  the  voyager. 
8 


LETTER    No,  18. 

PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  SUBTERRANEAN  RIVER  OF  OBLIVION — A 

BRIDE  BACKING  OUT,  ON  THE  BRINK NICHES  FOR  DISAP 
POINTED  POLITICIANS WONDERFUL  ECHOES  AND  VICINITY 

OF     PURGATORY FIRING    A    PISTOL    NEAR    THE    INFERNAL 

REGIONS LANDING     ON    THE    OTHER    SIDE     OF    THE    STYX 

OLE  BULL'S  PERFORMANCE  IN  THE  CAVE THE  CROWN 
ING  OF  OUR  COMPANION,  THE  DANISH  PROFESSOR FA 
TIGUE  OF  THE  EIGHTH  MILE BLESSED  STOP  TO  DINE 

RELICS  OF  FORMER  VISITORS MODESTY    OF    STEPHEN    THE 

GUIDE,  AND  OUR  REMONSTRANCE CLARET    AND    ITS  TASTE 

UNDER  GROUND,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Mammoth  Cave.  June. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

"We  were  three  miles  under  ground  at  the  close  of 
my  last  letter,  and  the  subterranean  river  called 
"  Lethe  "  was  before  us.  The  voyage  looked  un-tempt- 
ing.  A  shallow  skiff  waited  to  receive  us,  and  the 
stream,  black  as  ink  under  the  dim  glare  of  our  lamps, 
disappeared  suddenly  around  a  corner  of  rock,  leaving 
all  that  was  beyond  entirely  to  the  imagination.  Dark 
and  gloomy  cliffs  walled  in  and  roofed  over  the  en 
trance.  Not  a  weed,  nor  a,  ripple,  nor  a  breath  of  air, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          171 

gave  token  of  life  further  on.  It  was  to  be  a  launch 
into  blank  darkness. 

And  the  worst  of  it  was,  that  we  were  to  leave  be 
hind  us  all  that  was  particularly  young  and  lovely,  in 
our  party.  The  one  lady  who  had  accompanied  us 
thus  far,  held  a  side  conference  with  her  husband  while 
the  lamps  were  being  trimmed,  (they  were  a  newly  mar 
ried  couple,  we  understood,)  and  the  result  was  a  de 
cision  to  leave  Oblivion  for  the  present  un-tempted. 
There  wras  a  spare  guide,  fortunately.  He  could  return 
with  them  to  daylight  and  the  bridal  moon.  They 
waited  kindly  to  see  us  off,  however,  and  really,  as 
they  stood  with  their  swinging  lamps  on  the  receding 
shore,  the  lovely  bride  smiling  and  joyous,  and  with 
one  little  foot  already  turned  from  under  her  short  pet 
ticoats  to  retrace  her  steps,  I  thought,  lights,  groupings 
and  all,  I  never  had  seen  a  more  dramatic  picture. 
We  dropped  silently  down  the  stream,  with  our  lamps 
hidden  in  the  bottom  of  the  skiff — Steven's  slouched 
beaver,  raven  mustache  and  large  melancholy  eyes 
looking  even  more  poetical  than  old  Charon,  as  he 
shoved  from  the  shore — and  in  the  next  minute  we 
were  hidden  from  view,  afloat  and  alone  on  a  breath 
less  and  rayless  river.  And  thus  romantic  is  the 
first  launch  upon  Lethe !  Be  comforted,  oh  many 
bards  ! 

The  passage  of  Lethe  is  like  an  aisle  of  a  cathedral, 


172         HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

a  mile  long,  traversed  with  a  lamp  at  midnight.  The 
gliding  between  its  gray  walls  in  a  boat,  silently  and 
without  effort,  adds  a  strange  mysteriousness  to  its 
effect.  The  ceiling  of  arched  rock,  which  roofs  it  in, 
varies  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  in  height ;  and,  half 
way  up,  runs  a  shelving  gallery,  as  designedly  architec 
tural  as  a  thing  could  well  seem  ;  and,  along  under  this 
gallery,  is  a  succession  of  empty  niches  of  the  shape 
commonly  constructed  for  busts — a  natural  Westmin 
ster  Abbey  for  the  likenesses  of  disappointed  politi 
cians,  which  makes  its  name,  as  the  river  of  forgetful- 
ness,  singularly  felicitous.  "  Salt  Eiver,"  you  will  re 
member,  is  but  sixty  miles  from  this. 

There  is  a  short  interruption  of  a  sand-bank  after 
the  first  quarter  of  a  mile,  and,  crossing  this,  we  took 
another  boat  and  resumed  our  glide  down  the  dark 
river.  From  the  remarkable  echoes  along  this  last  mile 
or  three-quarters,  Stephen  gives  it  the  separate  name  of 
Echo  River — but  this  seems  a  needless  multiplying  of 
names,  for  it  is  all  one  stream,  and  Lethe  is  (if  any 
thing  is)  a  name  for  continuance.  AYe  stopped  oar  and 
tried  the  echo.  There  seemed  to  be  remote  caves 
which  only  answered  upon  very  long  and  deliberate  re 
flection — yet  as  sweetly  as  reluctantly.  Stephen  sang 
a  negro  song,  and  the  echo  of  the  first  line  came  back 
about  the  time  of  the  fourth.  It  struck  me  that  it 
would  be  a  pretty  thing  to  imitate  in  a  duett — suspend- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.          173 

ing'  the  last  line  while  the  leading  sentiment,  (say  a 
struggle  against  the  river's  tide  of  forgetfulness,)  re 
curs  with  a  mournful  echo  My  brother  the  composer 
w7ill  build  good  music  for  such  a  song,  and  you  can  do 
the  words,  being  as  good  at  that.  If  a  passenger  down 
Lethe  is  wanted,  I  am  good  at  most  kinds  of  victim, 
and  will  do  that  part  of  it.  So  copyright  your  tears, 
my  dear  Morris,  and  begin. 

The  dead  silence  with  which  we  floated  downwards 
most  of  the  way — Stephen  having  a  fine  idea  of  the 
dramatic,  and  suspending  oar  and  voices  for  very  effec 
tive  intervals — was  far  more  affecting  and  impressive' 
than  I  can  w7ell  give  you  an  idea  of.  It  was  like  the 
pathos  in  a  play.  I  thought  an  interlude  might  be 
agreeable,  and  having  seen  the  handle  of  a  pistol  in 
the  pocket  of  our  comme  il  faut  companion  from  New 
Orleans,  I  asked  leave  to  try  the  echo  with  a  discharge. 
Chapultepec  !  \vhat  a  roar  !  The  immediate  thunder 
was  like  the  coming  down  of  the  rocks  about  our  ears, 
but  the  long-continued  and  far-off  reverberations  seemed 
to  tell  of  caves  that  had  never  before  been  reached  or 
found  utterance.  I  have  omitted  to  mention  that  there 
is  an  avenue  called  "  Purgatory,"  which  runs  parallel 
with  this  river,  and  the  loudest  echoes  were  doubtless 
from  that.  Whether  it  was  a  disturbance,  or  an 
agreeable  variety,  to  the  spirits  who  thus  groaned 
back  their  answers,  we  had  no  "  medium  "  to  tell  us. 


174         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

It  seemed  as  if  the  echoes  would  never  be  done.  Si 
lence  after  a  while,  however — and  silence — and  silence. 
The  grass  must  stop  growing,  and  the  stars  hold  their 
breath,  to  give  you,  above  ground,  any  idea  of  that 
silence. 

My  companions  expressed  great  regret  at  disembark 
ing  from  the  breathless  river  of  Oblivion.  Even  the 
lively  Professor,  who  was  making  a  pedestrian  tour  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Styx,  (your  side,)  resumed  his  legs 
and  his  lamp  very  unwillingly  for  the  dark  explorings 
still  beyond.  I  was  the  last  to  leave  the  boat,  being 
probably  the  most  tired  of  the  party,  but  contriving  to 
be  the  last,  throughout  the  trip,  for  the  sake  of  adding 
my  friends  and  their  procession  of  lamps  to  the  beauty 
of  the  picture.  However  splendid  the  avenue  or  the 
dome,  a  foreground  of  half  a  dozen  illuminated  figures 
is  a  great  embellishment — I  record  it  as  a  hint  to  any 
reader  who  may  visit  the  cave  after  me. 

Picking  a  corner  of  a  stone,  for  every  step  one  takes, 
makes  a  mile  very  long,  besides  keeping  one's  eyes  and 
enthusiasm  more  busy  with  one's  toes  than  with 
the  surrounding  scenery.  Stephen  called  my  atten 
tion  to  the  even  loftiness  of  the  roof  of  "  Silliman's 
Avenue,"  (forty  feet  high,)  but  I  only  remember  that  it 
was  as 

"  Long  as  a  pilgrimage  on  peas  to  Rome." 

And,  of  a  tedious  labyrinth   cailed  "The  Infernal 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.          175 

Regions,"  I  remember  nothing  but  Stephen's  cautions 
against  stumbling^  into  pits.  We  stopped  in  one  large 
opening  called  "  Cascade  Hall,"  where  there  is  an 
anonymous  waterfall,  heard  but  never  seen.  We  turn 
ed  a  spacious  corner  which  singularly  resembles  the 
hull  of  a  ship,  and  is  called  "The  Great  Western." 
"  Ole  Bull's  Concert-Eoom  is  just  beyond,  and  here  we 
sat  down  and  listened  to  Stephen's  very  graghic  descrip 
tion,  of  the  romantic  Dane's  under-ground  performance. 
George  D.  Prentice,  the  poet-editor,  was  present,  with 
his  wife,  and,  except  the  "  spirits  whose  walk  is  there," 
I  understood  Stephen  to  say  there  was  no  other  au 
dience.  Those  applauded  who  had  the  wherewithal. 
The  reverberations  were  fine.  The  hall  is  eighty 
feet  wide  and  sixty  feet  high,  and  three  unexplored 
passages  open  from  it  in  different  directions.  Ole 
Bull  seemed  very  much  excited,  and  gave  Stephen 
new  ideas  of  the  agility  of  music.  As  the  Dane  walk 
ed  back  seven  miles  through  the  woods,  (after  his  de 
parture  from  the  Cave  Hotel,)  to  take  one  more  pil 
grimage  under  ground,  he  doubtless  found  it  a  genial 
atmosphere  for  his  wild  nature.  I  forgot,  when  at 
Louisville,  to  ask  Prentice  about  that  trans-Lethean 
performance,  but  he  ought  to  record  his  impression  of 
it.  Ole-Bulliana  will  be  interesting,  by  the  time  the 
Cave  find  its  poet  and  historian. 

Our  Danish  Professor,  with  his  wit  and  eccentricity, 


176         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

had  given  us  an  occasional  half-mile  of  uproarious 
laughter  on  the  way,  and  when  we  came  to  a  stalactite 
singularly  like  a  suspended  crown,  we  placed  him  un 
der  it  and  unanimously  elected  him  Emperor — Koep- 
pen  the  First.  To  make  a  bad  pun,  his  long  blonde 
mustache  looked  sufficiently  be- Czar  for  the  occasion. 
This  gentleman,  by  the  way,  has  been  for  several  years 
one  of  King  Otho's  Professors  at  Athens  ;  and,  stored 
as  his  mind  seems  to  be  with  information  on  every  sci 
entific  subject,  and  speaking  half  a  dozen  languages 
with  perfect  fluency,  I  should  suppose  him  and  his  Lec 
tures  valuable  additions  to  our  community.  His  knowl 
edge  also  of  real  life,  (as  different  from  the  same  thing 
in  books  as  figs  before  packing,)  would  be  a  valuable 
ingredient  in  the  compound  of  a  College  Faculty.  He 
has  been  lecturing  at  Brown  University,  and  more  re 
cently  at  New-Orleans. 

Great  \vonders,  but  weary  miles.  "  The  Pass  of  El 
Ghor  "  I  mentally  promised  to  remember  and  admire, 
with  more  strength  and  better  leisure. .  The  "  Hanging 
Eocks,"  "Martha's  Vineyard,"  "Black  Hole  of  Cal 
cutta,"  and  "  Elindo  Avenue,"  I  duly  recognized,  at 
Stephen's  request,  as  remarkable  things  and  places — • 
hoping,  all  the  while,  that  the  next  announcement  would 
be  the  kindly  rock  on  which  we  were  to  dine.  The 
eighth  mile,  I  observed,  \vas  a  procession  performed  in 
profound  silence,  lamps  no  longer  lifted  to  admire,  nor 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  177 

lingerings  made  to  examine  and  philosophize.  The 
Cave  is  too  large  and  too  long.  Its  nine  miles,  in  one 
iteration  of  wonder,  are  like  nine  dinners  in  a  day. 
Writing  this  as  I  do,  in  the  hungry  abstinence  of  dis 
tance  from  the  spot,  it  seems  to  me  as  if  any  one  of 
those  numberless  halls  and  sparry  grottoes  which  we 
tracked  so  wearily  with  little  notice,  would  be  a  feast 
to  see.  Yet,  at  the  time,  I  would  have  exchanged 
twice  the  sublimity  of  any  one  of  them  for  a  look  into 
Stephen's  basket. 

But  the  chocolate  slouched  hat,  everlastingly  pre 
ceding  in  the  distance,  "  rounded  to  "  at  last.  Our  long 
single  file  of  stumblers  stumbled  into  a  group,  and  stood 
surveying,  with  expressions  of  strong  interest,  a  tabu 
lar  ridge  of  rock,  situated  (Stephen  assured  us)  in 
"Washington  Hall."  For  Washington  and  his  Hall 
we  should  feel  enthusiasm,  perhaps,  with  something  in 
our  stomachs  whereon  to  place  it;  but  our  gaze,  for 
the  moment,  was  on  the  basket  being  unstrapped  from 
Stephen's  shoulders,  and  on  the  wicker  flask  which 
looked  defiance  to  the  State  of  Maine,  out  of  his  trou 
sers'  pocket.  The  rock  we  stood  around  looked  histo 
rical.  Champagne  and  ale  bottles  were  piled  here  and 
there  in  stacks,  eloquent  of  destinies  fulfilled  beyond 
the  Styx — poets  first  uncorked  when  under  ground. 
A  small  sprig  of  mint,  of  flavor  truly  delicious  in  that 
dry  air,  lay  on  a  crag — evidence  of  some  julep,  doubt- 


178         HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

less  provokingly  reminiscent,  which  had  been  drank  in 
presence  of  the  spirits  herabouts.  There  were  crusts 
of  bread  and  bits  of  chickens ;  and  of  some  of  these 
last,  stil  sweet,  Stephen  told  us  the  posthumous  age, 
proving  that  meats  do  not  become  corrupt  in  an  atmos 
phere  of  that  degree  of  dryness.  Some  of  the  gentle 
men  and  ladies  who  had  dined  there,  had  left  their  cards 
sticking  in  cracks  of  the  rock.  I  could  have  wished 
for  a  seat,  and  a  soft  one,  near  the  table :  but  we  were 
accommodated  upon  sharp  corners  of  crags,  at  various 
distances,  and,  for  every  fresh  bone  to  pick,  we  were 
obliged  to  walk  up.  It  was  an  active  performance, 
however. 

If  one  could  most  describe  what  he  most  enjoys  in 
travel,  (alas!  no !)  I  should  enlarge  upon  this  dinner 
eaten  at  eight  miles  from  daylight.  Sun  or  moon  would 
scarcely  have  improved  it.  Our  guide  modestly  re 
membered  that  he  was  a  slave,  and,  after  spreading  the 
repast  under  the  weight  of  which  he  had  toiled  so  far, 
he  seated  himself  at  a  distance ;  but,  remembering  his 
merits  and  all  the  geology  and  history  he  had  given  us 
on  the  way,  we  voted  him  to  "  the  first  table,"  by  an 
immediate  and  general  remonstrance.  Our  friend  from 
New  Orleans  had  provided  claret  which  had  an  unex 
pected  affinity  with  the  climate  under  ground — (worth 
making  a  note  of.)  And  all  was  brightened  by  the  Pro 
fessor's  minded  fun  and  wisdom. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  179 

Having  got  you  into  the  Cave,  1  must  get  you  out 
of  it,  my  dear  Morris,  but  there  are  mummies  and  mam 
moths,  and  many  a  wonder  yet  to  tell  of,  and  this  letter 
will  scarcely  give  the  room.  You  shall  see  daylight  in 
my  next. 


LETTER   No.  19. 


SPLENDOR    OF    KENTUCKY  S    BASEMENT    STORY WHAT    AN 

EARTHQUAKE  MIGHT  DO  FOR  SOMEBODY SUGGESTION  OF 

A  MAMMOTH  CAVE  BALL EFFECT  LIKE  GETTING  A  FIRST 

VIEW  OF  A  NEW  PLANET PROCESS  OF  DISFIGURING  THE 

CAVE  BY  VULGAR  VISITORS "ROCKY  MOUNTAINS"   AND 

"  DISMAL  HOLLOW,"  AND  THE  CHARACTER  OF  THE  LATTER 
PLACE — STEPHEN'S  ALLEVIATORY  MUSCLE — LAST  HALL  OF 

ALL  AT  THE  EXTREMITY  OF  THE  CAVE GOLDEN  FLEECE 

(OVERHANGING  THE  ALTAR — SKETCH  OF  THE  PARTY  AND  RE- 
VERIE   AT  THE   END — MOTHER  EVE,   AND    OUR    FEELING 

ALIKE  AS  TO  THE  SUN  AND  MOON SUGGESTED  INSCRIPTION 

FROM  MILTON  FOR  THE  END  OF  THE  CAVE HESITATION  AS 

TO  CONFESSING  TO  THE  ROMANTIC  EFFECT  OF  THE  LAST 
MILE RETURN EYELESS  FISH,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Mammoth  Cave,  June. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

Under  whose  farm  lies  that  ninth  and  inner  mile  of 
the  Mammoth  Cave,  it  would  be  interesting  to  know, 
for  he  grows  his  corn  over  a  splendid  possibility — a 
suit  of  halls  of  unsurpassable  magnifieece,  requiring 
nothing  but  a  moderate  earthquake  to  open  just  before 
his  door,  Why,  the  state  apartments  of  Versailles  are 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  181 

not -half  so  sumptuously  ornamented  as  this  portion  of 
the  basement  story  of  Kentucky.  The  proportions  of 
the  successive  rooms  are  imposing  enough,  but  the  won 
der  is  in  the  walls  and  ceilings.  They  are  studded  with 
gems.  Crystilization  has  lined  and  roofed  those  halls 
with  every  variety  of  brilliant  spar,  and  the  snow-white 
and  calcareous  glitter  fairly  dazzles  the  eye.  Floor 
these  mammoth  grottoes — illuminate  them — and  give  a 
ball  there — a  ball  a  mile  long — and  the  world  never  will 
have  seen  a  spectacle  so  splendid.  Could  it  not  be 
done,  (tell  us,  Prentice  !)  to  celebrate  the  completion  of 
the  railway  from  New- York  to  New  Orleans  ?  Ken 
tucky  has  the  broad-handed  hospitality  becoming  to  the 
central  State  of  our  confederacy,  and  would  play  the 
host  and  entertain  the  world  with  a  grace  chivalric  and 
characteristic.  She  might  well  celebrate  an  event 
that  wrill  open  her  lordly  woodlands  to  the  admiration 
of  the  vast  tide  of  travel  that  now  goes  unapprecia- 
tingly  past,  on  the  Ohio. 

Dinner  had  doubtlesly  something  to  do  with  our  ap 
preciating  the  ninth  mile  better  than  the  eighth  and 
hungry  one — but,  if  I  remember  rightly,  it  is  only  at 
this  far  end  of  the  Mammoth  Cave,  that  the  snowy  white 
halls  are  found,  built  of  stalactites,  and  every  inch  a 
study  of  brilliant  crystallization.  The  prodigality  of 
these  delicate  and  dazzling  wonders  impresses  the  trav 
eller.  In  museums  and  mineralogical  cabinets,  you  see 


182          HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE    TROPICS. 

geodes  and  specimens  of  crystals,  the  largest  of  wjiich 
can  be  taken  into  the  hand.  Here  they  form  rotundas 
and  palaces — and  miles  of  them  !  There  is  something 
so  new  in  finding  oneself  in  such  strangely  magnificent 
apartments  (and  loooking  at  them  with  a  lamp,)  that  it 
seems  like  a  visit  to  a  just  created  and  more  brilliant 
planet,  where  God  has  not  yet  said,  "  Let  there  be 
light,"  but  where  the  Adam  and  Eve  for  whom  a  sun 
is  to  shine  on  this  darkness,  are  to  find  themselves  lodg 
ed  in  ready-built  palaces,  gem-studded  and  crystal 
roofed — a  dwelling  house  growing  wild  like  an  apple- 
tree.  No  offence  to  our  friend  Downing,  that  his  beau 
tiful  art  would  be  a  superfluity  on  such  an  improved 
planet. 

People  like  to  leave  word  that  they  have  been  here. 
In  one  of.  these  calcareous  halls  there  is  a  stack  of 
crystals,  of  about  the  height  and  shape  of  a  female  ser 
vant,  and,  upon  this,  every  visitor  seems  to  have  thrust 
a  card.  Others  more  barbarous,  or  thoughtless,  have 
hoisted  candles  upon  sticks  and  smoked  their  names  on 
the  otherwise  unblemished  ceilings  and  walls,  a  disfig 
uration  by  which,  in  a  very  few  years,  the  Mammoth 
Cave  will  have  lost  all  its  beauty — for  those  surfaces  of 
delicate  texture  can  never  be  cleansed.  Stephen  was 
eloquent  upon  this  profanation,  and  doubtles  puts  in 
his  protest,  invariably;  but  a  slave's  remonstrance 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  183 

would  not  be  much,  with  the  kind  of  white  man  that 
would  thus  immortalize  his  own  bad  taste. 

Before  reaching  the  last  hall  of  all,  there  are  "  Rocky 
Mountains  "  to  clirnb,  and  a  "  Dismal  Hollow  "  to  tra 
verse.  The  dreary  immensity  of  this  innermost  cavern, 
save  one,  is  thought  worth  the  exhibiting,  and  it  is  part 
of  Stephen's  routine  to  bring  Bengal  lights  and  burn 
them  here,  to  show  the  wilderness  of  darkness  and  de 
solation.  We  are  not  commonly  aware  how  much  a 
desert  valley  of  broken  rocks  is  relieved  (above  ground) 
by  having  a  sky  over  it ;  and  the  effect  of  "  Dismal 
Hollow  "  is  probably  owing  to  the  fact  that  there  is  no 
chance  for  the  eye  to  get  away — just  such  another  val 
ley  of  broken  rocks  being  heaped  in  a  concave  of  hor 
ror  to  overhang  it.  It  has  its  moral  influence  ;  for  per 
haps  the  visiter  has  never  before  got  so  good  an  idea 
of  a  place  where  Heaven  was  out  of  the  question — a 
Hades  roofed  in  with  a  Hades,  and  I  must  own  that  I 
was  very  glad  to  have  Stephen  to  admire,  as  he  knelt 
on  one  knee  at  the  far  side  of  the  cavern,  receiving  on 
his  romantic  physiognomy  the  full  glare  of  the  tar  and 
brimstone.  His  mustache  had  a  pleasant  look  of  a 
"  continued  state  of  probation." 

"We  picked  up  our  lamps  and  "  got  out  of  that " — 
a  few  minutes  of  scrambling  bringing  us  to  the  sort  of 
small  chapel  which  is  the  farthest  penetrable  point  of 


184         HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS. 

this  underground  pilgrimage.  It  is  not  a  place  very 
brilliant  or  spacious — but  there  are  some  stalactical 
formations  on  its  walls  which  would  be  curious  but  for 
the  greater  wonders  seen  on  the  way,  and  at  the  far  end 
there  is  something  which  might  well  be  considered  as 
dramatically  in  character  with  the  spot.  It  is  a  kind  of 
projection  like  an  altar,  over  which  the  stalactical  ooze 
has  formed  in  a  resemblance  to  a  golden  fleece,  and 
thus  seems  to  be  hung  as  an  irremovable  veil  over  the 
entablature.  In  superstitious  days  some  mystic  word 
would  have  been  believed  to  be  written  underneath  this 
veiled  extremity  of  the  cave — some  secret  to  which  the 
long  subterranean  pilgrimage,  with  its  many  wonders, 
was  the  fitting  approach.  Long-robed  priests  and  the 
swinging  of  censers,  might  make  it,  even  now,  a  spot 
of  reverential  awe  and  visitation. 

"We  were  at  the  end  of  our  journey — three  P.  M-, 
and  nine  miles  from  daylight.  The  facill  descensus 
Averni  had  occupied  six  hours.  Stephen  had.  concluded 
his  nine-mile  lecture  on  geology,  and  sat  waiting  our 
pleasure.  The  Professor  was  examining  a  stalagmite. 
Our  French  friend  smoked  his  cigar  in  silent  contempla 
tion  ;  and  the  Bostonian,  having  managed  to  get  behind 
the  Golden  Fleece,  was  re-appearing  at  the  other  side 
of  the  altar  with  his  enterprising  lamp.  I  was  almost 
too  tired,  myself,  to  realize  where  I  was — much  too  tired 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE    TROPICS.          185 

to  be  as  industrious  as  you  would  probably  expect  of 
so  interesting  a  locality.  The  Dane  and  I  had  been 
talking  of  emigrants  from  monarchial  countries  to  our 
land  of  independence.  It  was  the  only  furniture  T  could 
summon  for  a  reverie.  I  sat  upon  as  comfortable  a 
rock  as  I  could  find,  and  endeavored  to  remember,  em 
igrant  from  Above-ground  that  I  was,  what  an  ocean  of 
darkness  divided  me  from  my  native  daylight — how  King 
Sun  and  Queen  Moon,  and  the  Princes  of  Little  Stars, 
had  become  far-off  nonentities — how  the  laws  that  reg 
ulate  Dawn,  Noon  and  Twilight,  were  dead  letters  to 
me,  then  and  there — and,  as  to  your  tyrannical  Time- 
day,,  how  safely  I  was  beyond  its  clocks  and  jurisdic 
tion.  The  underground  freedom  of  all  this,  while  it  oc 
curred  to  me,  did  not  greatly  enliven  my  fatigued  re 
publicanism,  however.  I  even  felt  neglected  that  the 
arbitrary  Afternoon,  that  punctual  officer  of  the  Sun, 
was,  at  that  moment  assessing  his  lengthening-shadow- 
tax  without  thinking  of  mine.  Was  it  possible  that  the 
sun  could  be  going  to  set — all  the  same  as  if  we  five 
gentlemen  (including  Stephen)  were  above  ground  as 
usual  ?  Mother  Eve,  if  you  recollect,  expresses  some 
what  the  same  discontent — a  jealous  unwillingness  that 
the  heavenly  bodies  shonld  shine  when  she  \vas  not 
looking  at  them.  This  she  does  on  her  wedding  night, 
and  Adam  gently  snubs  her  for  it — our  indefinitely -great- 
grandmother  having  thus  received  her  first  curtain 


186         HEALTH    TRIP    TO     THE    TROPICS. 

lecture,  for  the  same  unnatural  uneasy  feeling  with 
which  I  sat  down  at  the  end  of  Mammoth  Cave ! 
Milton  tells  it  in  beautiful  poetry.  Let  me  quote  it 
for  you : — 

*      *      "  Sweet  the  coming  on 
Of  grateful  evening  mild  :  then  silent  night 
"With  this  her  solemn  bird,  and  this  fair  moon, 
And  these  the  gems  of  heaven,  her  starry  train  : 
But  wherefore  all  night,  long  shine  these  1     For  whom 
This  glorious  sight  when  sleep  ha'h  shut  our  eyes  ? 
To  whom  our  general  ancestor  replied  : 
Daughter  of  God  and  Man,  accomplished  Eve, 
These  have  their  course  to  finish  round  the  earth 
By  morrow  evening,  and  from  land  to  land 
In  order,  though  to  nations  yet  unborn, 
Ministering  light  prepared,  they  set  and  rise, 
Lest  total  darkness  should  by  night  regain 
Her  old  possession,  and  extinguish  life 
In  nature,  and  all  things.     *     * 
These,  then,  though  upheld  in  deep  of  night, 
Shine  not  in  vain  ;    NOR  THINK,  THOUGH  MEN  WERE  NONE, 
THAT  HEAVED  WOULD  WANT  SPECTATORS,  God  want  praise, 
Millions  of  spiritual  creatures  walk  the  earth 
Unseen,  both  when  we  wake  and  when  we  sleep  : 
All  these  with  ceaseless  praise  his  works  behold 
Both  day  and  night." 

Sooner  or  later — in  the  Mammoth  Cave  or  some 
shallower  underground  sojourning — we  are  all  to  be 
thus  omitted  and  easily  done  without,  by  the  sun  and 
moon;  and  perhaps  our  "general  ancestor's"  sweet 
little  sermon  on  the  subject  is  not  inaptly  quoted,  to 
meet  the  discontent  felt  by  the  traveller,  at  the  day- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  187 

light's  doing  without  him  even  for  his  short  interment 
in  the  mammoth  Cave.  To  engrave  its  rebuke  to  self- 
consequence,  on  that  stalactical  veil  where  the  murmurer 
sets  down  his  lamp,  and  is  farthest  away  from  sun  and 
moon,  might  point  that  nine-mile  pilgrimage  with  a  mo 
ral,  that  would  give  meaning  and  value  to  its  fatigues 
and  splendors. 

Up  lamps,  and  start  on  our  return— but  I  have  not  writ 
ten  what  I  at  first  intended,  nor  described  what  I  most  felt 
in  traversing  this  last  mile.    You  were  less  likely  to  laugh 
at  what  I  least  felt,  and  so  I  have  given  you  that — as 
a  writer  feels  it  wise  to  do,  alas,  how  often  !     The  truth 
is  that  there  is  a  dramatic  progress,  in  the  day's  experi 
ences  of  the  Mammoth  Cave,  which  work  up  the  ima 
gination  to  a  height  not  wholly  to  be  trusted.     I  pen 
cilled   down,  as  usual,  before  going  to  bed  that  night, 
my  notes  of  the  day's  events  and  feelings — (the  notes 
of  which  my  letters  are  but  the  more  wordy  transcript) 
— and  I  saw  where  the  sympathy-car  of  the  reading 
public  would  unhitch  and  let  my  too  acceledated  loco 
motive  whiz  off  by  itself.     The  circumstances  and  sur 
roundings  are  more  progressively  exciting  than  the  vis- 
iter  is,  at  the  time  aware  of.     The  slow  procession  of 
indistinct  figures,  each  with  his  flickering  lamp;    the 
sombre  strangeness  of  the   objects   pointed  out ;    the 
half  penetrated  and  mysterious   darkness   above   and 
around :   the  intervals  of  profound  silence  when  the 


188          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

stillness  of  the  cave  becomes  oppressive;  the  sublime 
grandeur  of  the  scenes  themselves,  and  the  wild  indis 
tinctness  of  the  legends  peopling  the  air  with  spirits — 
all  this,  easily  resisted  for  an  hour  or  so,  becomes,  with 
hunger  and  half  a  day,  an  atmosphere  of  reality  :  and 
the  imagination  gets  the  upper  hand,  by  the  last  mile, 
as  it  does  in  the  fifth  act  of  a  play.  Describe  this  ex 
actly  ?  Oh  no  !  Few  visiters  to  the  Mammoth  Cave 
would  "  own  up."  The  fear  of  ridicule  is  kept  too  con 
stantly  on  the  alert,  in  this  age  of  sneering  and  unbe 
lieving.  And  it  is  as  well,  perhaps — for  there  should 
be  something  to  prevent  something  or  other  from  being 
written  about.  Authors  (I  have  long  thought)  make 
life  a  dreadfully  second-hand  business.  Is  it  not  possi 
ble  that  the  world  would  be  a  happier  place  if  there 
were  more  surprises  in  it — if  there  were  something  for 
the  traveller  to  see,  or  for  the  lover  to  feel,  which  had 
not  been  anticipated  by  "inspired  pens?"  A  man,  at 
least,  should  find  something  under  ground,  that  is  not 
"  the  old  story  " — so  I  leave  you,  undescribed,  that  last 
mile  and  its  emotions. 

My  companions  started  off  so  trippingly  that  I 
called  Stephen  aside  and  made  interest  to  be  looked 
back  for  occasionally.  To  be  left  behind  without  that 
oil-canister  on  his  left  hip,  was  a  calamity  which  my 
weary  legs  warned  me  to  guard  against.  As  to  keep 
ing  up  with  the  pace  at  which  they  begun  those  nine 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  189 

retrogading  miles,  it  was  wholly  improbable,  and  my 
lamp  had  not  more  than  three  miles'  oil  in  it,  even  if  I 
knew  the  way.  This  provision  made,  however,  I  took 
it  very  leisurely,  and  was  consequently  left  behind  at 
every  turn  of  the  labyrinth,  and,  indeed,  for  three- 
fourths  of  the  time,  quite  out  of  sight  and  hearing. 
There  was  a  chance  luxury  in  this,  which  I  had  not  an 
ticipated.  The  wondrous  rooms  in  which  I  found  my 
self  alone  with  my  faint  lamp,  were  more  imposing  and 
beautiful  than  when  seen  with  more  light,  and  with  the 
company  of  friends ;  and,  if  I  dared  write  of  the  spir 
its  of  the  cave,  I  could  tell  you  how  much  more  thick 
ly,  than  before,  the  sombre  gloom  seemed  haunted.  In 
darkness  so  many  miles  deep,  one  cannot  but  feel  that 
he  is  over  the  border-land,  and  in  regions  where,  if  any 
where,  ghosts  inhabit.  The  noise  one  makes  with  his 
own  step  does  not  break  silence,  (if  you  ever  noticed,) 
and  to  get  rid  of  the  feet  and  voices  of  your  compan 
ions,  in  such  a  place,  is  to  be  left  with  the  spell  in  full 
power.  I  found  the  "  influence,"  though  melancholy, 
sweet  and  gentle.  They  are  friendly  spirits  that  walk 
there.  I  shall  remember  my  weary  linger  through 
those  halls  so  hushed  and  haunted,  as  among  the  plea- 
santest  passages  of  that  knowledge  unconfessed  which 
we  all  cherish,  more  or  less,  in  these  days  of  "  spiritual 
manifestations." 


190         HEALTH      TRIP     TO      THE      TROPICS. 

Of  the  cave's  eyeless  fish,  mummies,  and  other 
visible  inhabitants,  I  have  yet  to  tell  you,  and  these 
muet  be  reserved,  I  believe,  for  still  another  letter. 


LETTER    No.    20. 


NINE  MILES  TO  DAYLIGHT FATIGUE  OF  WALKING  WITH  HORI 
ZONTAL      SPINE FISH      WITHOUT      EYES ORGANS      DYING 

WITH     DISUSE CONSUMPTION     CURED     WITH      DANGER     TO 

NOSE LESSON  IN  TAKING    THINGS  EASY CAUTION  TO    LA 
DIES    FOND    OF    DARK     ROOMS QUOTED    DESCRIPTIONS    OF 

CHURCH  AND  TEMPLE OAK  POLE  FOR  SUSPENDING  CORPSES 

THE    MUMMY    LADY    AND    HER    SARCOPHAGUS DESCRIP 
TION     OF     HER  DRESS,    POSTURE,    ORNAMENTS,    ETC. THE 

CUSTOM    OF    STOPPING    TO    MUSE    AT    THIS    MUMMY    TOMB 

MAMMOTH    RELICS RETURN  ,.TO    DAYLIGHT DELIGHT    OF 

ONCE  MORE  BREATHING  AIR  WITH  THE  PERFUMES  OF  VEGE 
TATION — KENTUCKY'S  ADVANTAGE  IN  AN  ATTRACTION  FOR 

ETC. 

Mammoth  Cave,  June,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

This  letter  will  not  be  sprightly,  if  it  express  the 
weariness  of  back  and  brain  with  which  I  walked  over 
the  ground  it  is  to  describe.  I  had  scrambled  nine 
miles  into  the  earth,  you  will  remember,  stumbling,  poet 
izing,  theorizing,  dining,  nnd  being  very  much  astonish- 


192          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

ed,  on  the  way.  Astonishment  is  more  fatiguing  than 
pleasure,  you  know,  as  stumbling  is  more  fatiguing  than 
walking;  and  I  should  have  been  thoroughly  exhausted 
if  there  had  been  any  convenient  opportunity.  It  was 
nine  miles  to  the  first  daylight,  however,  and  like  the 
horse  in  the  hack-cab,  so  tightly  reifned  up  that  he 
could  never  give  out,  the  inducement  to  go  on  overcame 
the  weakness.  But  that  half  mile  under  the  rock, 
which  the  visiter  traverses  on  the  wheelbarrow  princi 
ple — the  load  at  right  angles  to  the  legs — really  that 
was  too  much.  Did  you  ever  try  to  walk  half  a  mile 
with  your  hips  uppermost,  my  dear  General  ? 

We  reached  Lethe,  witji  many  stops  and  occasional 
drops  of  encouragement  and  water  from  Stephen's 
flask,  and  here  we  halted  to  catch  one  of  the  eyeless  fish, 
who  swim  in  this  river  of  forgetfulness.  I  held  the 
lamp  while  the  pole  net  was  quietly  slipped  under  the 
little  victim  of  celebrity.  He  saw  no  danger,  poor 
thing,  and  stirred  never  a  fin  to  escape  being  taken  out 
of  his  element  and  raised  to  a  higher  sphere.  In  size~ 
he  was  like  the  larger  kind  of  what  the  boys  call  a 
"  minim"-^-say  an  inch  and  a-half  long — but  very  differ 
ent  in  construction  and  color.  His  body  was  quite 
white,  translucent,  and  wholly  without  an  intestinal 
canal.  The  stomach,  (what  there  was  of  it,)  was  di 
rectly  behind  the  brain,  (if  brain  there  was.)  and  all  the 
organs  of  the  system  were  forward  of  the  gilh—  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          193 

head  alone  having  blood  or  other  discoloration.  Under 
the  chin  he  disposed  of  what  was  surpurflous  in  his 
nourishment.  He  was  curiously  correspondent,  indeed, 
to  the  poetized  character  of  the  place — like  a  fish  in 
progress  of  becoming  a  fish  in  spirit-land,  his  dis-animali- 
zation  having  commenced  radically  at  the  tail  and 
working  upward.  Nothing  could  be  more  purely  beau 
tiful  and  graceful  than  the  pearly  and  spotless  body 
which  had  heavenly -fied  first,  leaving  the  head  to  follow. 
I  looked  for  some  minutes  at  the  others  swimming  in  the 
stream.  They  idled  about,  w7ith  a  purposeless  and  lux 
urious  tranquility,  and  I  observed  that  they  ran  their 
noses  against  the  rocky  sides  of  the  dark  river  with  no 
manner  of  precaution.  Unhurt  and  unannoyed,  they 
simply  turned  back  from  the  opposing  obstacle,  and 
swam  slowly  away.  It  would  be  well  to  learn  the  trick 
of  this  easy  withdrawal  from  opposition,  and  I  am  glad 
to  have  one  of  the  little  philosophers  to  set  on  a  shelf 
— a  bottled  lesson  from  Lethe. 

The  scientific  people  tell  us  that  these  blind  fish  once 
had  eyes,  and  that  the  microscope  still  shows  the  col 
lapsed  socket.  The  organ  has  died  out  in  the  darkness 
of  the  subterranean  river — dwindled  into  annihilation 
with  lack  of  using.  If  this  be  a  law  of  nature,  and  true 
in  graduated  degrees,  as  of  course  it  is,  it  should  be  a 
warning  to  the  ladies  of  our  day.  What  more  univer 
sal  than  the  passion  for  perpetual  twilight  in  drawing- 
9 


194          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

room  and  boudoir  ? — yet  it  appears  that  eyes  dwindle 
and  diminish  in  proportion  to  lack  of  light.  Let  the 
large  eyed  beauty  take  warning! 

I  spoke  figuratively  of  noses  just  now.  But  I 
presume  that  these  fish  have  no  "  pituitary  membrane.1' 
The  same  law  of  annihilation  by  disuse  would  exter 
minate  noses  in  this  Cave  under  ground — for  with 
absence  of  vegetation  and  complete  dryness,  the  air  ib 
utterly  inodorent.  It  is  a  fact  that  should  be  remem 
bered  in  the  proposed  occupancy  of  the  Cave  as  a  hos 
pital  for  consumption.  If  organs  lessen  with  disuse, 
the  nose  would  dwindle  into  annihilation  with  nothing 
to  smell,  as  the  eye  with  nothing  to  see.  The  value 
which  the  pulmonary  patient  puts  upon  his  nose  should 
be  conscientiously  inquired  into,  (I  venture  to  suggest,) 
before  subjecting  him  to  a  cure  which  might  endanger 
it.  A  case  is  highly  possible,  of  a  gentleman  to  whom 
convalescence  without  a  nose  would  be  no  object. 

As  we  go  up  stream,  my  dear  Morris,  (on  the  return 
voyage  of  Lethe  which  I  trust  we  may  some  day  make 
together,)  I  remember  that  there  is  much  in  this  won 
drous  Cave  which  I  may  seem  to  have  neglected,  con 
fining  my  account  mainly,  as  I  do,  to  its  impression  on 
myself.  If  I  have  awakened  an  interest  in  the  spot,  and 
if  the  accounts  of  it  are  as  little  known  and  as  unac- 
cessible  to  you  as  they  chanced  to  have  been  to  me,  it 
may  be  worth,  while  to  quote  descrptions,  by  other 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          195 

pens,  of  one  or  two  of  the  wonders  of  the  Cave  which  I 
have  omitted  to  mention.  Here,  for  instance,  is  an  ac 
count  of  "  The  Church,"  which  I  walked  through  with 
out  saying  a  word  about  it : — 

"  The  ceiling  is  sixty-three  feet  high,  and  the  church 
itself,  including  the  recess,  is  about  one  hundred  feet 
in  diameter.  Eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  pulpit,  and 
immediately  behind  it,  is  the  organ-loft,  which  is  suffi 
ciently  capacious  for  an  organ  and  choir  of  the  largest 
size.  This  church  is  large  enough  to  contain  thousands." 
(another  account  says  it  will  accommodate  five  thou 
sand)  ;  "  a  solid  projection  of  the  wall  seems  to  have 
been  designed  as  a  pulpit,  and  a  few  feet  back  is  a 
place  well  calculated  for  an  organ  and  choir.  In  this 
great  temple  of  nature,  religious  services  has  been  fre 
quently  performed,  and  it  requires  but  a  slight  effort 
on  the  part  of  the  speaker  to  make  himself  heard  by  the 
largest  congregation." 

The  same  writer  thus  describes  the  Vestibule  of  the 
Cave : — 

"  This  is  a  hall  of  an  oval  shape,  two  hundred  feet  in 
length  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  wide,  with  a  roof  as 
flat  and  level  as  if  finished  by  the  trowel,  and  from  fifty 
to  sixty  feet  high.  Two  passages,  each  a  hundred  feet 
in  width,  open  into  it  at  the  opposite  extremities,  but 
at  right  angles  to  each  other ;  and  as  they  run  in  a 
straight  course  for  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  with  the 
same  flat  roof  common  to  each,  the  appearance  present 
ed  to  the  eye  is  that  of  a  vast  hall  in  the  shape  of  the 
letter  L,  expanded  at  the  angle,  both  branches  being 
five  hundred  feet  long  by  one  hundred  wide.  The  entire 
extent  of  this  prodigious  space  is  covered  by  a  single 
rock,  in  which  the  eye  can  detect  no  break  or  interruption, 
save  at  its  borders,  which  are  surrounded  by  a  broad 


196          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TE.OPICS. 

sweeping  cornice,  traced  in  horizontal  panel  work,  ex 
ceedingly  noble  and  regular.  Not  a  single  pier  or  pil 
lar  of  any  kind  contributes  to  support  it.  It  needs  no 
support :  but  is 

'  By  its  own  weight  made  steadfast  and  immoveable.' 

At  a  very  remote  period  this  chamber  seems  to  have 
been  used  as  a  cemetery ;  and  there  have  been  disin 
terred  many  skeletons  of  gigantic  dimensions,  belonging 
to  a  race  of  people  long  since  vanished  from  the  earth. 
Such  is  the  vestible  of  the  Mammoth  Cave.  The  walls 
of  this  chamber  are  so  dark  that  they  reflect  not  one 
single  ray  of  light  from  the  dim  torches.  Around  you 
is  an  impenetrable  wall  of  darkness,  which  the  eye  vainly 
seeks  to  pierce,  and  a  canopy  of  darkness,  black  and 
rayless,  spreads  above  }rou.  By  the  aid,  however,  of  a 
fire  or  two  which  the  guides  kindle  from  the  remains  of 
some  old  wooden  ruins,  you  begin  to  acquire  a  better 
conception  of  the  scene  around  you.  Par  up,  a  hun 
dred  feet  above  your  head,  you  catch  a  fitful  glirnps  of 
a  dark  gray  ceiling,  rolling  dimly  away  like  a  cloud, 
and  heavy  buttresses,  apparently  bending  under  the 
superincumbent  weight,  project  their  enormous  masses 
from  the  shadowy  wall.  The  scene  is  vast,  and  solemn 
and  awful.  A  profound  silence,  gloomy,  still  and 
breathless,  reigns  unbroken  by  even  a  sigh  of  air,  or  the 
echo  of  a  drop  of  water  falling  from  the  roof.  You 
can  hear  the  throbbings  of  your  heart,  and  the  mind  is 
oppressed  with  a  sense  of  vastness,  and  solitude,  and 
grandeur  indescribable." 

In  Lee's  account  of  his  visit  to  the  Cave  there  are 
two  of  its  features  well  described : — 

"  The  Temple  is  an  immense  vault,  covering  an  area 
of  two  acres,  and  covered  by  a  single  dome  of  solid 
rock,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.  It  excels  in 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  197 

size  the  cave  of  StafFa,  and  rivals  the  celebrated  vault 
in  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  which  is  said  to  be  the 
largest  in  the  world.  In  passing  through  from  one  end 
to  the  other,  the  dome  appears  to  follow  like  the  sky  in 
passing  from  place  to  place  on  the  earth.  In  the  middle 
of  the  dome  there  is  a  large  mound  of  rocks  rising  on 
one  side  nearly  to  the  top,  very  steep,  and  forming  what 
is  called  the  mountain.  When  first  I  ascended  this 
mound  from  the  cave  below,  I  was  struck  with  a  feel 
ing  of  awe,  more  deep  and  intense  than  anything  I  had 
ever  before  experienced.  I  could  only  observe  the  nar 
row  circle  which  was  illuminated  immediately  around 
me;  above  and  beyond  was  apparently  an  unlimited 
space,  in  which  the  ear  could  not  catch  the  slightest 
sound,  nor  the  eye  find  an  object  to  rest  upon.  It  was 
filled  with  silence  and  darkness ;  and  yet  I  knew  that  I 
was  beneath  the  earth,  and  that  this  space,  however 
large  it  might  be,  was  actually  bounded  by  solid  walls. 
My  curiosity  was  rather  excited  than  gratified.  In  or 
der  that  I  might  see  the  whole  in  one  connected  view, 
I  built  fires  in  many  places  with  the  pieces  of  cane  which 
I  found  scattered  among  the  rocks.  Then  taking  my 
stand  on  the  mountain,  a  scene  was  presented  of  surpris 
ing  magnificence.  On  the  opposite  side,  the  strata  of 
gray  limestone  breaking  up  by  steps  from  the  bottom, 
could  scarcely  be  discerned  in  the  distance  by  the  glim 
mering.  Above  was  the  lofty  dome,  closed  at  the  top 
by  a  smooth  slab  beautifully  defined  in  the  outline,  from 
which  the  walls  sloped  away  on  the  right  and  left,  into 
thick  darkness.  Every  one  has  heard  of  the  dome  of 
the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  of  St.  Peter's  and  St  Paul's  ; 
they  are  never  spoken  of  but  in  terms  of  admiration,  as 
the  chief  works  of  architecture,  and  among  the  noblest 
and  most  stupendous  examples  of  what  man  can  do 
when  aided  by  science ;  and  yet,  when  compared  with 
the  dome  of  this  temple,  they  sink  into  comparative  in 
significance.  Such  is  the  surpassing  grandeur  of  na 
ture's  works." 


198         HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS. 

"  From  the  Bandit's  Hall  diverge  two  caves,  one  of 
which,  the  left,  leads  you  to  a  multitude  of  domes  ;  and 
the  right  to  one  which,  par  excellence,  is  called  the 
Mammoth  Dome.  This  dome  is  near  four  hundred  feet 
high,  and  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  most  sublime 
and  wonderful  spectacles  of  this  most  wonderful  of 
caverns.  From  the  summit  of  this  dome  there  is  a  wa 
terfall.  Foreigners  have  been  known  to  declare,  on 
witnessing  an  illumination  of  the  great  dome  and  hall, 
that  it  alone  would  compensate  for  a  voyage  across  the 
Atlantic." 

For  the  description  of  the  "  oak  pole"  which,  with 
the  dry  air  of  the  Cave,  had  stood  in  the  subterranean 
cemetery  imperishable  for  ages,  and  which  was  so  plac 
ed  as  to  warrant  the  belief  that  it  was  used  to  suspend 
a  body  in  the  air,  to  dry  off  into  nothingness,  on  its  own 
hook — and  for  the  mammoth-bones  of  animals,  two  of 
whose  ribs  would  make  an  arch  for  a  Gothic  doorway 
— for  these  and  other  antiquities  of  the  place,  I  refer 
you  to  the  books  on  the  subject ;  but  there  is  no  locality 
of  the  Cave  which,  with  its  tenant,  has  been  described 
by  a  scientific  visiter,  and  of  this  description,  though 
long  and  elaborate,  I  must  give  you  the  whole.  The 
gentleman  who  writes  it  visited  the*  Cave  in  1813.  He 
says  : — 

"  In  the  digging  of  saltpetre  earth  in  the  short  cave,  a 
flat  rock  was  met  with  by  the  workmen,  a  little  below 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  in  the  cave ;  this  stone  was 
raised,  and  was  about  four  feet  wide  and  as  many  long ; 
beneath  it  was  a  square  excavation  about  three  feet 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          199 

deep,  and  as  many  in  length  and  width.  In  this  small 
nether  subterranean  chamber  sat  in  solemn  silence  one  of 
the  human  species,  a  female,  with  her  wardrobe  aud  or 
naments  placed  at  her  side.  The  body  was  in  a  state  of 
perfect  preservation,  and  sitting  erect.  The  arms  were 
folded  up,  and  the  hands  were  laid  across  the  bosom  ; 
around  the  two  wrists  was  wound  a  small  cord,  designed, 
probably,  to  keep  them  in  the  posture  in  which  they 
were  first  placed ;  around  the  body  and  next  thereto 
were  wrapped  two  deer  skins.  These  skins  appeared 
to  have  been  dressed  in  some  mode  different  from  what 
is  now  practised  by  any  people  of  whom  I  have  any 
knowledge.  The  hair  of  the  skins  were  cut  off  very 
near  the  surface.  The  skins  were  ornamented  with  the 
imprints  of  vines  and  leaves,  which  were  sketched  with 
a  substance  perfectly  white.  Outside  of  these  two  skins 
was  a  large  square  sheet,  which  was  either  wove  or 
knit.  The  fabric  was  the  inner  bark  of  a  tree,  which  I 
judge  from  appearance  to  be  that  of  the  linn  tree.  In 
its  texture  and  appearance,  it  resembled  the  south  sea 
island  cloth  or  matting ;  this  sheet  enveloped  the  whole 
body  or  head.  The  hair  on  the  head  was  cut  off  with 
in  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of  the  skin,  except  near  the 
neck,  where  it  was-  an  inch  long.  The  color  of  the 
hair  was  a  dark  red;  the  teeth  were  white  and  perfect. 
I  discovered  no  blemish  upon  the  body,  except  a  wound 
between  two  ribs,  near  the  back  bone ;  and  one  of  the 
eyes  had  also  been  injured.  The  finger  and  toe  nails 
were  perfect  and  quite  long.  The  features  were  regu 
lar.  1  measured  the  length  of  one  of  the  bones  of  the 
arm  with  a  string,  from  the  elbow  to  the  \vrist  joint, 
and  they  equalled  my  own  in  length,  viz.  :  ten  and 
a-half  inches.  From  the  examination  of  the  whole  frame, 
I  judged  the  figure  to  be  that  of  a  very  tall  female,  say 
five  feet  ten  inches  in  height.  The  body,  at  the  time  it 
was  discoverd,  weighed  but  fourteen  pounds,  and  ivas  per 
fectly  dry ;  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere,  it  gained  in 
weigtit,  by  absorbing  dampness,  four  pounds.  Many  per- 


200          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

eons  have  expressed  surprise  that  a  human  body  of 
great  size  should  weigh  so  little,  as  many  human  skele 
tons,  of  nothing  but  bone,  exceed  this  weight.  Recently 
some  experiments  have  been  made  in  Paris,  which  have 
demonstrated  the  fact  of  the  human  body  being  reduc 
ed  to  ten  pounds,  by  being  exposed  to  a  heated  atmos 
phere  for  a  long  period  of  time.  The  color  of  the  skin 
was  dark,  not  black  ;  the  flesh  was  hard  and  dry  upon 
the  bones.  At  the  side  of  the  body  lay  a  pair  of  rnoc- 
cassins,  a  knapsack,  and  an  indispensible,  or  reticule. 
I  will  describe  these  in  the  order  in  which  I  have  nam 
ed  them.  The  moccasins  were  made  of  wove  or  knit 
bark,  like  the  wrapper  I  have  described.  Around  the 
top  was  a  border  to  add  strengh,  and  perhaps  as  an 
ornament.  These  were  of  middling  size,  denoting  feet 
of  a  small  size.  The  shape  of  the  moccasins  differs  but 
little  from  the  deer  skin  moccasins  worn  by  the  north 
ern  Indians.  The  knapsack  was  of  wove  or  knit  bark, 
with  a  deep  strong  border  around  the  top,  and  was 
about  the  size  of  the  knapsack  used  by  soldiers.  The 
workmanship  of  it  was  neat,  and  such  as  would  do 
credit,  as  a  fabric,  to  a  manufacturer  of  the  present 
day.  The  reticule  was  also  made  of  knit  or  wove  bark. 
The  shape  was  much  like  a  horseman's  valise,  opening 
its  whole  length  on  the  top.  On  the  side  of  the  open 
ing,  and  a  few  inches  from  it,  were  two  rows  of  loops,  one 
row  on  each  side.  Two  cords  were  fastened  to  one  end 
of  the  reticule  at  the  top,  which  passed  through  the 
loop  on  one  side,  and  then  on  the  other,  the  whole  length, 
by  which  it  was  laced  up  and  secured.  The  edges  of 
the  top  of  the  reticule  were  strengthened  with  deep 
fancy  borders.  The  articles  contained  in  the  knapsack 
and  reticule  were  quite  numerous,  and  were  as  follows  : 
one  head-cap,  made  of  wove  or  knit  bark,  without  any 
border,  and  of  the  shape  of  the  plainest  night-cap ;  seven 
head-dresses,  made  of  the  quills  of  large  birds,  and  put 
together  somewhat  in  the  way  that  feather  fans  are 
made,  except  that  the  pipes  of  the  quills  are  not  drawn 
to  a  point,  but  are  spread  out  in  straight  lines  with  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          201 

top.  This  was  done  by  perforating  the  pipe  of  the 
quill  in  two  places,  and  running  two  cords  through  the 
holes,  and  then  winding  round  the  quills  and  the  cord 
fine  thread,  to  fasten  each  quill  in  the  place  designed  for 
it.  These  cords  extended  some  length  beyond  the  quills 
on  each  side,  so  that  on  placing  the  feathers  erect,  the 
feathers  could  be  tied  together  at  the  back  of  the  head. 
This  would  enable  the  wearer  to  present  a  beautiful  dis 
play  of 'feathers  standing  erect ,  and  extending  a  distance 
above  the  head,  and  entirely  surrounding  it.  Tfiesewere 
most  splendid  head-dresses,  and  would  be  a  magnificent 
ornament  to  the  head  of  a  female  at  the  present  day. 
Several  hundred  strings  of  beads ;  these  consisted  of 
very  hard,  brown  seed,  smaller  than  hemp  seed,  in  each 
of  which  a  small  hole  had  been  made,  and  through  the 
whole  a  small  three-corded  thread,  similar  in  appear 
ance  and  texture  to  seine  twine ;  these  were  tied  up  in 
bunches,  as  a  merchant  ties  up  coral  beads  when  he 
exposes  them  for  sale.  The  red  hoofs  of  faivns,  on  a 
string  supposed  to  be  worn  around  the  neck  as  a  necklace. 
These  hoofs  were  about  twenty  in  number,  and  may  have 
been  emblematic  of  innocence.  The  claw  of  an  eagle, 
.with  a  hole  in  it,  through  which  a  cord  was  passed,  so 
that  it  could  be  worn  pendant  from  the  neck.  The  jaw 
of  a  bear,  designed  to  be  worn  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  eagle's  claw,  and  supplied  with  a  cord  to  suspend  it 
around  the  neck.  Two  rattle-snake  skins ;  one  of  these 
had  fourteen  rattles  ;  these  skins  were  neatly  folded  up. 
Some  vegetable  colors  done  up  in  leaves.  A  small 
bunch  of  deer  sinews,  resembling  cat-gut  in  appearance. 
Several  bunches  of  thread  and  twine,  two  and  three 
threaded,  some  which  were  nearly  white.  Seven  needles 
some  of  which  were  of  horn  and  some  of  bone ;  they 
were  smooth,  and  appeared  to  have  been  much  used. 
These  needles  had  each  a  knob  or  whorl  on  the  top, 
and  at  the  other  end  were  brought  to  a  point  like  a 
large  sail  needle.  They  had  no  eyelets  to  receive  a 
thread/  The  top  of  one  of  these  needles  was  handsomely 
scolloped.  A  hand-piece  made  of  deer  skin,  with  a  hole 
9* 


202         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS. 

through  it  for  the  thumb,  and  designed  probably  to  pro 
tect  the  hand  in  the  use  of  the  needle,  the  same  as  thim 
bles  are  now  used.  Two  whistles,  about  eight  inches 
long,  made  of  cane,  with  a  joint  about  one-third  the 
length  ;  over  the  joint  is  an  opening,  extending  to  each 
side  of  the  tube  of  the  whistle ;  these  openings  were 
about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  and  an  inch  wide, 
and  had  each  a  flat  reed  placed  in  the  opening.  These 
whistles  were  tied  together  with  a  cord  wound  around 
them. 

I  have  been  thus  minute  in  describing  this  mute  wit 
ness  from  the  days  of  other  times,  and  the  articles  which 
were  deposited  within  her  earthen  house.  Of  the  race 
of  people  to  whom  she  belonged  when  living,  we  know 
nothing  ;  and  as  to  conjecture,  the  reader  who  gathers 
from  these  pages  this  account,  can  judge  of  the  matter 
as  well  as  those  who  saw  the  remnant  of  mortality  in 
the  subterranean  chambers  in  which  she  was  entombed. 
The  cause  of  the  preservation  of  her  body,  dress  and 
ornaments,  is  no  mystery.  The  dry  atmosphere  of  the 
cave,  with  the  nitrate  of  lime,  with  which  the  earth  that 
covers  the  bottom  of  these  nether  palaces  is  so  highly 
impregnated,  preserves  animal  flesh,  and  it  will  neither 
putrify  nor  decompose  when  confined  to  its  unchanging 
action.  Heat  and  moisture  are  both  absent  from  the 
cave,  and  it  is  these  two  agents  acting  together  which 
produce  both  animal  and  vegetable  decomposition  and 
putrefaction.  In  the  ornaments,  etc. ,  of  this  mute  wit 
ness  of  ages  gone,  we  have  record  of  olden  time,  from 
which,  in  the  absence  of  a  written  record,  we  may  draw 
some  conclusions.  In  the  various  articles  whicli  con 
stituted  her  ornaments,  there  were  no  metallic  substances. 
In  the  make  of  her  dress,  there  is  no  evidence  of  the  use 
of  any  other  machinery  than  the  bone  and  horn  needles. 
The  beads  are  of  a  substance,  df  the  use  of  which  for 
such  purposes  we  have  no  account  among  people  of  whom 
we  have  any  written  record.  She  had  no  warlike  arms. 
By  what  process  the  hair  on  her  head  was  cut  short,  or 
ty  what  process  the  deer  skins  were  shorn,  we  have  nc 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          203 

means  of  conjecture  These  articles  afford  us  the  same 
means  of  judging  of  the  nation  to  which  she  belonged, 
and  of  their  advances  in  the  arts,  that  future  generations 
will  have  in  the  exhumation  of  a  tenant  of  one  of  our 
modern  tombs,  with  the  funeral  shroud,  etc.,  in  a  state 
of  like  preservation ;  with  this  difference,  that  with  the 
present  inhabitants  of  this  section  of  the  globe,  but  few 
articles  of  ornament  are  deposited  with  the  body.  The 
features  of  this  ancient  member  of  the  human  family 
much  resembled  those  of  a  tall,  handsome  American 
woman.  The  forehead  was  high,  and  the  head  well 
formed." 

The  boudoir  of  this  lady  of  uncertain  age,  is  in  one 
of  the  side  avenues  of  the  Cave,  usually  the  object  of  a 
separate  day's  visit.  It  is  not  a  very  attractive-looking 
place  in  itself,  though  the  imagination  lights  fire  immedi 
ately,  like  a  tinker  with  a  good  job,  and  sets  to  work 
there,  with  great  industry.  Stephen  set  down  his  lamp, 
after  showing  us  the  hollow  nich  in  the  rock  against 
which  the  fair  one  was  found  sitting,  as  if,  with  his  six 
teen  years'  experience  as  guide,  he  had  found  this  to 
be  a  spot  where  the  traveller  usually  takes  time  for  re 
verie.  It  cost  me  no  coaxing  to  have  mine.  With  the 
silence  of  the  spot,  and  all  the  world  shut  out,  it  is  im 
possible  that  the  imagination  should  not  do  pretty  fair 
justice  to  the  single  idea  presented.  There  has  been 
many  a  charming  fancy  portrait  thus  drawn  of  the  de 
parted  Fawn-hoof,  and  of  all  the  ladies  of  past  ages,  I 
doubt  whether  there  is  one  who  is  the  subject  of  a  more 


204         HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE    TROPICS. 

perpetual  series  of  unwritten  poems.  She  is  Kentucky's 
posthumus  belle. 

We  emerged  from  the  Cave  somewhere  about  nine  in 
the  evening,  having  been  twelve  hours  in  the  hands  of 
darkness  and  Stephen.  The  stars  were  pleasant  to  see 
— the  supper  wras  pleasant  to  anticipate — but,  to  me, 
the  strongest  sensation  of  "  rising  again"  was  the  luxu 
ry  of  once  more  being  in  the  world  of  things  to  smell. 
The  unearthly  dryness  and  deathliness  of  the  dew-less 
air  had  been  all  day  most  oppressive  to  me.  Confine 
ment  there  would  be  my  worst  kind  of  un-deiv-ing.  As 
to  fatigue,  mine  had  become  chronic  ;  and,  though  prob 
ably  several  times  used  up,  I  walked  to  the  hotel  with 
out  thinking  particularly  of  being  tired,  but  enjoying 
the  perfume  of  the  pines,  hemlocks  and  moist  earth, 
with  a  zest  worthy  of  the  first  breath  at  a  thrown-up 
window  in  the  morning.  The  olfactory  sense  has  not 
been  done  justice  to,  in  poetry.  When  Milton  deplored 
his  blindness  as  "  wisdom  at  one  entrance  quite  shut 
out,"  he  should  have  mentioned  the  consolation  he  still 
possessed  in  the  neighboring  entrance  of  his  nose. 
There  could  have  been  no  sweet-briar  in  his  garden- 
walk,  nor  daughter's  hand  to  place  bunches  of  flowers 
by  his  plate  at  breakfast.  Give  us  a  song  to  this  neg 
lected  sense,  my  dear  Morris  !  To  honor  what  the 
world  slights  is  the  poet's  mission. 

We  supped  and  went  to  bed  on  our  fill  of  that  and 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          205 

the  day's  astonishment,  and  I  felt  that  I  had  seldom  or 
never  seen  more  since  a  morning.  The  Mammoth  Cave 
is  certainly  a  wonder  of  indescribable  variety  and  beauty. 
It  will  increase  in  attraction  as  the  world  knows  more 
of  it,  and,  Kentucky,  rich  in  so  many  specialities,  will 
be  rich  in  a  viaduct  of  cosmopolitism — having  that 
which  the  intelligent  of  all  nations  must  needs  come  and 
see. 

Adieu  once  more  above  ground. 


LETTER    No,  21, 


NEW  ARTICLE  TO  PACK  IN  A  TRUNK KILLING    THE    EYELESS 

FISH    BY    PUTTING    HIM     IN     SPIRITS TO    MUMFORDSVILLE 

FROM  MAMMOTH  CAVE,  BY  PRIVATE  VEHICLE,  AND    ADVEN 
TURES    BY     THE     WAY PORTRAIT    OF     A    BACKWOODSMAN 

WESTERN     COLLOQUIAL     ATTITUDE KENTUCKY      HANOI- 

NESS    AT    EXPEDIENT MENDING    A    BROKEN    WHEEL    WITH 

HICKORY  WITHES — COMMENT  ON  BACKWOODS  LIFE CHEER 
FUL  FIRE  AT  THE  TAVERN    IN  A  JUNE  EVENING HABIT    OF 

WESTERN  GENTLEMEN  TO  FREQUENT  THE  TAVERNS CURI 
OSITY  AS  TO  STRANGERS ATTEMPT  TO  DODGE  ENQUIRIES 

LANDLORD,  AND  HIS  MANNER   OF    CONVERSING    AND    WAIT 
ING  ON  TABLE EDUCATION  IN  OPEN  AIR,  AND  ITS  RESULTS 

WESTERN  CHARACTER  AND    ITS    FORMATION HIGH    STA 
TION  OF    LANDLORDS    AND  STAGE-DRIVERS  AT  THE  WEST 

DISTINCTION    BETWEEN    WESTERN    GENTLEMEN   AND    ROW 
DIES,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Harrodsburg  Springs,  June. 

DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

You  are  enough  of  a  traveller  to  know  that  the 
most  dire  inevitableness  of  human  allotment,  (after  ori 
ginal  sin,)  is  the  perpetual  packing  of  a  trunk.  To  be 
one  of  that  class  of  animals  that  requires  baggage — or, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          207 

rather,  not  to  be  accommodated,  like  the  elephant,  with 
a  trunk  that  is  taken  care  of  by  the  stomach  and  gene 
ral  circulation — is  a  calamity  for  which  we  are  doubtless 
pitied  by  kind  angels.  I  was  realizing  this  feature  of 
my  humanity,  as  usual,  in  preparing  to  leave  the  Hotel 
at  the  Mammoth  Cave — groaning  over  the  inexorable 
unwillingness  of  boots  and  shirts  to  go  in  where  they 
had  once  come  out — wrhen  I  discovered  a  new  embar 
rassment.  Swimming  vigorously  around  in  my  wash 
bowl  was  the  eyeless  fish  I  was  to  kill,  bottle,  and  take 
away.  You  that  have  laid  hands  upon  poetical 
thoughts,  swimming  in  your  brain,  lovely  and  happy  in 
a  state  of  nature,  and  have  paralyzed  the  poor  things 
with  rhymes  and  corked  them  up  in  stanzas  for  immor 
tality,  can  understand  with  what  compassion  I  looked 
upon  that  involuntary  victim  of  celebrity.  I  had 
brought  him  out  of  the  cave  in  a  pocket  flask,  and  he 
seemed  to  have  become  rather  lively  than  otherwise 
with  the  smack  of  artificial  spirits  which  must  have, 
tinctured  the  water.  His  coming  to  light  did  not  seem 
to  affect  him.  He  bumped  his  nose  against  the  white 
sides  of  the  washbowl  as  blindly  and  unconcernedly  as 
against  the  rocks  in  the  darkness  of  Lethe.  Happy  he 
could  scarcely  have  been  in  a  strange  place,  and  with 
nothing  to  eat — but  a  more  active  little  creature  I  had 
never  seen.  The  phial  of  immortality  (some  people 
call  it  gin)  into  which  he  was  presently  to  be  dropped, 


208         HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS. 

looked  cruel  and  pokerish.  I  made  all  manners  of  de 
lays  to  defer  it.  So  beautiful  a  life  to  be  brought  sud 
denly  to  an  end!  If  "Morris  and  Willis"  had  both 
been  there,  Morris  should,  as  usual,  have  "  done  the  bu 
siness." 

I  have  thought  it  might  be  interesting  to  record  that 
this  little  blind  creature  lived  ten  minutes  in  alcohol. 
It  was  evidently  a  most  painful  death.  I  had  supposed 
it  would  be  immediate,  but  he  evidently  lived  longer 
than  he  would  have  done  on  air.  The  jumps,  convul 
sions,  and  gaspings  of  his  tiny  mouth  for  some  more 
congenial  element,  were  prolonged,  it  seemed  to  me,  in 
terminably.  Death  came  hard,  though  he  was  dying 
to  be  saved.  Stiff  grew  his  little  translucent  tail,  at 
last,  however,  and  he  was  wrapped  in  a  winding  sheet 
of  the  sighed  over  and  packed — and  here  he  floats  be 
fore  me,  motionless,  on  the  mantel-piece,  and  seen  and 
thought  of,  while  his  brethren  in  darkness  are  for 
gotten. 

In  getting  from  the  cave  to  a  stage-route,  I  fell  upon 
a  bit  of  Kentucky  experience  which  interested  me.  We 
had  taken  a  return  carriage — three  of  our  subterranean 
party — to  cross  over,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  to  Mum- 
fordsville.  After  bumping  and  stumping  through  the 
woods  for  an  hour  or  two,  we  came  to  a  dead  halt. 
The  tire  of  the  fore  wheel  had  parted,  and  another  rev 
olution  would  have  dropped  the  wood-work  in  pieces. 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          209 

Five  miles  back  to  the  Mammoth  Cave,  ten  miles  to  a 
blacksmith,  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  only  a  log- 
hut  visible  in  the  wilderness.  Our  negro  driver  was  a 
smart  lad,  but  he  rubbed  his  wool  in  great  perplexity. 
To  borrow  a  wheel  seemed  to  him  the  only  chance  of 
not  passing  the  night  in  the  woods,  and  so  advanced  a 
refinement  as  a  wheel,  anywhere  in  that  neighborhood, 
was,  at  least,  an  improbability.  The  backwoodsman 
had  come  out  to  us,  by  this  time — a  social,  friendly, 
athletic,  ample  young  adult,  whose  growth,  mental  and 
bodily,  had  been  as  natural  and  untramelled  as  that  of 
the  trees  visible  from  his  door.  No  yearling  steer  could 
have  been  more  frankly  unceremonious,  and  no  courtier 
more  unembarrassed  and  agreeable  in  his  politeness. 
He  was  barefooted  and  dressed  in  homespun.  After 
exchanging  civilities  with  us,  he  took  a  colloquial  atti 
tude  very  common  in  the  West,  but  which  I  never  had 
chanced  to  see  east  of  the  Alleghanies — sitting  down 
plump  upon  his  own  heels,  with  his  elbows  between  his 
knees.  Thus  made  into  a  comfortable  heap,  with  only 
the  soles  of  his  feet  coming  to  the  damp  ground,  he 
picked  up  gravel-stones  and  contemplated  the  posture 
of  our  affairs. 

His  father  had  a  "  four-wheel-fixin,"  and  lived  a  mile 
off.  The  negro  was  despatched  to  see  if  one  of 
these  wheels  could  be  borrowed ;  and  (by  the  way)  his 
unhesitating  and  entire  obedience  to  the  white  back- 


210         HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS. 

woodsman,  combined  with  the  most  free  and  easy  con 
versation  between  them,  impressed  me  as  a  curious  har 
mony  of  intercourse.  The  limbs  and  will  were  those 
of  a  slave,  but  the  tongue  was  free.  He  was  gone 
some  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  meantime,  we  lis 
tened  to  the  most  charmingly  simple  account  of  him 
self  from  our  friend  who  sat  looking  up  at  us.  "We 
learned,  among  other  things,  that  a  man  required  no 
property,  beyond  a  shirt,  to  "  make  a  gal  have  him,"  in 
that  country  ;  that  the  neighbors  would  "  make  a  bee  " 
to  build  his  house,  and  he  could  get  trusted  for  tools — 
so  that  it  seems  a  happy  climate  where  the  native  can 
begin  life  without  capital.  He  himself  has  married  at 
eighteen  ;  had  nothing  to  begin  with,  but  three  chil 
dren  now :  lived  off  the  land  which  he  had  paid  for 
with  half  the  crop,  and  was  as  "contented  as  he  want 
ed  to  be."  Looking  at  the  magnanimous,  un-care- 
worn,  genial  and  unsuspicious  countenance  of  the  man 
as  he  talked,  I  let  a  small  wonder  creep  through  my 
mind,  whether,  after  all,  the  mere  enjoyment  of  life 
were  not  better  attained  in  this  way.  Count  D'Orsay 
and  this  backwoodsman — naturally  men  very  much 
alike — might  weigh  happiness  at  the  close  of  life,  with  a 
strong  probability  that  the  latter  of  the  two  had  found 
the  more. 

The  driver  came,  at  last,  sweating  under  the  heavy 
fore-wheel  of  a  lumber-waggon.     It  was  no  fit — but  its 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.          211 

owner  had  followed  it,  and  then  came  the  Kentucky 
handincss  at  expedient.  "  The  old  man,"  a  most  merry 
counterpart  of  his.  big  son,  set  the  slave  to  cutting 
hickory  withes  and  his  boy  to  twisting  them  into  ropes, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  he  had  the  broken  wheel  bound 
together  so  tightly  that  it  was  even  more  road- worthy 
than  the  other  three.  The  job  was  done  with  jokes  and 
good-humored  zeal.  They  had  given  us  two  hours  of 
their  time  and  labor,  and  the  old  man  had  the  odd 
wheel  to  carry  home  a  mile  on  his  back — but  they 
would  receive  no  compensation,  and  sent  us  off  with 
the  good  wishes  and  cordial  kindness  of  old  friends. 
The  well-mended  did  its  work  for  the  remaining  fifteen 
miles,  and  we  had  a  Kentucky  experience,  cordially  and 
pleasantly  to  remember. 

It  was  as  late  in  the  summer  as  June  the  eighth,  but 
we  found  a  roaring  hickory  fire  in  the  bar-room  at 
Mumfordsville,  and  the  neighbours  around  it — talking 
politics,  of  course.  The  tavern,  in  Kentucky,  is  not 
only  the  resort,  but  the  respectable  resort,  of  the  male 
inhabitants  of  the  village,  at  all  leisure  hours.  You 
seldom  drive  up  to  one  without  alighting  amid  a  group 
— oftener  amid  a  crowd — and  the  titles  flying  from 
mouth  to  mouth  soon  inform  you  that  all  the  Judges, 
Generals,  and  Colonels,  possible  to  the  size  of  the  popu 
lation,  are  among  the  company.  The  stranger  is  re 
ceived  with  some  show  of  courteous  acknowledgment, 


212          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

a  chair  given  him  or  remarks  addressed  to  him,  and  if 
he  will  take  anything  to  drink,  or  requires  any  infor 
mation  or  other  civility,  it  is  abundantly  ready  for  him. 
But  they  require  something  in  return.  Who  and  what 
he  is,  and  where  he  is  going  and  what  for — if  it  does  not 
all  ooze  out  in  his  conversation,  is  specifically  asked  about 
in  the  course  of  the  evening.  At  Springfield,*  a  populous 
little  town  where  I  passed  the  night  on  my  way  to  Mam 
moth  Cave,  I  tried  hard  to  dodge  this  paying  of  autobi 
ographic  toll  to  curiosity.  I  had  been  asked  whether  I 
was  "  in  the  dry  goods  line,"  what  I  was  "  agent  for," 
whether  I  carried  my  "  business  card  about  me,"  etc., 
to  all  of  which  I  replied  with  a  courteous  monosyllable, 
changing  the  subject,  by  some  immediate  remark.  But 
the  landlord  came  up  at  last  with  a  direct  statement  that 
"  there  were  several  gentlemen  present  who  \vould  be 

*  It  may  interest  you  to  read  the  printed  card  which.  I  found 
nailed  to  my  bed-room  door  at  this  same  tavern  of  Springfield.  It 
ran  thus : — 

RULES    OF   THIS    HOUSE. 

1.  Regular  boarders  are  expected  to  pay  up  weekly. 

2.  Gentlemen  without  baggage  are  expected  to  pay  in  ad 
vance. 

3.  Gaming  of  all  kinds  strictly  prohibited. 

4.  All  lights  to  be  put  out  at  10  o'clock 

5.  Strict  attention  paid  to  baggage,  but  no  responsibility  ex 
cept  for  such  as  is  left  in  charge  of  the  bar-keeper. 

6.  Good  order  is  expected  to  be  kept  by  all  persons  when  in 
this  house. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          213 

very  happy  to  know  my  name.  One  side  of  every  bar 
room,  at  the  time,  was  covered  with  the  enormous  placard 
of  a  travelling  menagerie,  and  the  name  of  a  Mr.  Willis, 
as  the  distinguished  leader  of  the  band,  was  printed  in 
enormous  capitals.  There  was  a  risk  of  my  being  taken 
for  more  of  a  celebrity  than  might  be  comfortable.  Step 
ping  to  the  tavern  register,  therefore,  in  reply  to  the 
landlord's  application,  I  wrote  rny  name  in  such  a  way 
as  to  slur  the  tops  of  the  two  i's  very  slightly — by 
which  management  I  passed  the  remainder  of  the  even 
ing  in  comfortable  unconspicuousness,  as  a  Mr.  "Welles, 
and  was  not  admiringly  mistaken  for  the  distinguished 
clarionet,  Mr.  "Willis. 

Our  landlord  at  Mumfordsville  was  quite  a  superior 
and  intellectual-looking  man,  and  when  supper  was  ready 
he  waited  on  table  with  his  hat  on,  conversing  with  great 
ease  as  he  handed  round  the  hot  cakes,  and  seating 
himself  at  the  head  of  the  table  when  all  were  helped, 
and  (still  with  his  hat  on)  discussing  the  religious  topics 
which  chanced  to  come  up,  very  intelligently.  I  noticed, 
throughout  the  West,  that,  in  all  small  villages,  the 
landlord  is  a  person  who  is  considered  to  honour  the 
guest  by  his  company.  There  is  nothing  doubtful  in  his 
position.  That  and  the  profession  of  stage  driving,  are 
too  rich  in  opportunity  for  influence — give  too  much 
access  to  the  minds  and  opinions  of  the  community 
— not  to  have  been  gradually  promoted  to  the  class  of 


214  HE  ALTH   TRIP   TO    THE   TR  OPIC  S. 

occupations  for  the  "  leading  citizens."  A  Judge  drove 
the  stage  in  which  I  crossed  the  country  from  Harrods- 
burgh,  and  the  women  came  out  from  the  farm-houses 
and  gave  him  sixpenny  errands  to  do  in  the  village, 
with  unhesitating  familiarity.  The  wealthy  nabob  of 
Elizabethtown  was  the  "  stage  agent"  who  helped  us  in 
to  the  changed  coach  and  arranged  our  baggage.  Mr. 
Bell,  you  know,  the  father  of  Mrs.  Senator  Gwin,  keeps 
the  nearest  tavern  to  Mammoth  Cave,  and  he  is  one  of 
the  most  influential  and  respected  of  Kentucky's  "  first 
men."  The  traveller  is  obliged  to  learn  these  distinc 
tions;  and  with  any  lack  of  deference  or  any  de 
mand  for  more  than  the  services  ordinarily  performed  by 
these  gentlemen,  he  gets  a  very  peremptory  reminder  that 
he  has  all  along  been  the  obliged  person  of  the  two. 

The  wives  of  the  West  may  not  like  the  habits  I  have 
alluded  to — husbands  and  brothers  passing  their  leisure 
time  at  the  taverns.  But  I  am  not  sure  that  promptness 
and  manliness  are  not  thereby  cultivated.  The  univer 
sal  fluency  of  tongue  and  universal  quickness  and  bold 
ness  of  face-to-face  action,  which  are  marked  and  allowed 
characteristics  of  these  people,  at  least  get  their  training 
in  this  daily  school.  At  the  North  we  teach  youth  what 
human  nature  is  by  books — and  books  are  but  life  at 
second  hand.  These  frank  Kentuckians  learn  it,  by 
seeing  and  being  perpetually  familiar  with  just  what 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          215 

they  are  afterwards  to  encounter.  What  they  do  on 
the  Stump  or  in  the  Legislature,  is  what  they  have  been 
doing  every  day  in  the  bar-room,  or  practising  while 
balanced  on  the  two  legs  of  a  chair  amid  the  crowd 
seated  on  the  tavern  sidewalk.  They  never  insult  with 
out  knowing  it  and  being  ready  to  answer  for  it,  being 
well-practised  in  what  is  due  from  one  gentlemen  to 
another.  They  are  habitually  courteous  and  deferen 
tial,  from  the  laws  and  usages  which  are  the  standards 
in  these  familiar  crowds.  They  argue  adroitly  from 
constant  habit.  They  can  control  the  expressions  of  their 
faces,  their  muscles  and  nerves  from  the  same  habit. 
It  is  the  old  Areopagus  school  for  men,  and  the  re 
sult  seems  to  show,  that,  though  the  citizen  of  the 
North  is  wiser  in  books,  at  twenty,  the  citizen  of  the 
West  is  wiser  in  men  at  thirty.  Do  not  understand 
me  as  speaking  of  the  rowdies  of  the  West,  of  whose 
bowie-knives  and  revolvers  you  read  so  much.  These 
are  a  class  who  are  not  seen  by  the  stranger  unless  ho 
seeks  them  in  resorts  for  mere  drinking  and  gambling. 
1  refer  to  a  higher  and  very  different  class,  who 
still,  however,  are  found  assembled  in  every  town 
at  the  taverns.  As  it  is  interesting  to  see  how 
our  national  character  is  forming,  what  I  have 
here  noted  may  be  set  down  as  ore  of  its  influencing 
causes. 


216          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

I  had  thought   to   say   something   of  Harrodsburg 
Springs  in  this  letter,  but  I  will   defer  it  to*  my  next, 
I  think.     And,  for  the  present  adieu. 
Yours,  etc. 


LETTER    No.    28. 


CITIES  AND  PLACES  APPROACHING  US  BY  RAILROADS THE 

OVER-TRUMPETING  OF  SOME  WATERING-PLACES AGREE 
ABLE  DISAPPOINTMENT  ON  ARRIVING  AT  HARRODSBURG 

SPRINGS ENGLISH    PARK    AROUND    THE  HOTEL NOTES 

DESCRIPTIVE  OF  THE  MINERAL  WATERS FAVORITE  HAUNT 

FOR  WEALTHY  WESTERN  FAMILIES DR.  GRAHAM  AND  HIS 

CHARACTER DEFICIENCY    IN    ENGLISH   LANGUAGE THE 

DOCTOR'S  HORSE  AND  HIS  EMBARRASSING  HABITS — THE 
DOCTOR'S  MANY  ACCOMPLISHMENTS — HYDROPATHIC  AD 
DITION  TO  THE  HOTEL DOCTOR  HOUGHTON  AND  HIS  EX 
CELLENT  KNOWLEDGE  AND  CARE TOWN  OF  HARRODS 
BURG SALT  RIVER,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Harrodsburg  Springs,  Kentucky,  June. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

Cincinnati  has  "  sidled-up,"  as  you  know,  to  within 
forty-eight  hours  of  New  York,  and  by  this  same 
scarcely  noticed  but  perpetual  "  sidling-up" — (on  grease 
and  smooth  iron) — the  place  I  write  from  is  likely 
to  become  the  central  Saratoga  of  America.  With 
next  year's  completion  of  a  railroad  now  in  progress, 
10 


218          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

it  will  be  a  couple  of  hours  south  from  Cincinnati ;  and 
then,  between  New  York  and  New  Orleans,  Washing 
ton  and  St.  Louis,  Harrodeburg  Springs  will  be  the 
hub  of  the  wheel  of  fashion — nearly  equi-accessible  from 
these  four  outside  points,  and  a  rallying  spot  for  all  the 
beauty  and  be-sociable-ness  between.  Its  chief  attrac 
tion,  for  Boston,  will  be,  that  the  summer  commences 
there  a  month  earlier — for  New  Orleans,  that  it  com 
mences  a  month  later — and  in  that  compromise  month  oj 
June,  (shivering  at  Boston,  sultry  at  New  Orleans,  but 
summery  to  Harrodsburg,)  it  is  likely  to  attract,  from 
North  and  South,  all,  at  least,  who  are  susceptible  to 
climate.  At  present  the  crowded  season  is  in  July  and 
August ;  and,  during  those  months,  it  is  the  grand  field 
of  tournament  for  Western  flirtation,  and  the  gathering 
point  for  politicians  out  of  harness,  and  for  such  wealthy 
"Westerners  and  Southerners  as  like  to  spend  their 
money  on  the  side  of  the  Alleghanies  that  slopes  to 
wards  home. 

People  and  places  are  so  over-trumpeted,  now  a-days, 
that,  when  we  meet  with  man,  woman  or  watering- 
place  to  which  common  report  has  not  done  justice,  we 
feel  a  kind  of  compensatory  eagerness  to  make  it  up  to 
them.  I  went  to  Harrodsburg  Springs  as  the  best 
place  I  could  hear  of,  for  a  fortnight's  loitering — the 
Northern  summer  not  being  ready  for  my  lungs,  and 
Kentucky  having  some  inviting  features  and  qualities  of 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          219 

which  I  wished  to  see  more — but,  in  the  establishment 
of  "  The  Springs"  I  expected  to  find  little  except  clap 
boards  and  whitewash,  solitude  and  sanguine  expecta 
tions  of  company,  a  ball-room  full  of  cobwebs,  and  a 
vehement  negro  to  ring  the  bell  for  meals.  I  hoped  it 
was  such  a  place,  for  the  loneliness  I  wanted,  and  the 
leisure  it  would  give  me  to  write  up  my  notes  of  travel. 
There  are  hundreds  of  such  places  that  are  more  puffed 
and  talked  of  than  is  Harrodsburg,  with  all  its  real  ad 
vantages. 

After  a  most  lovely  drive  of  thirty  miles  from  Lex 
ington,  I  was  landed  at  a  massive  gateway  of  granite, 
between  a  couple  of  bronze  lions  ;  and,  through  the 
gentle  ascending  grounds  of  a  court-yard,  laid  out  and 
shaded  with  exquisite  taste,  I  saw  a  structure  of  unusual 
magnificence,  looking  every  way  solid  and  well-finish 
ed.  Two  long  wings  of  cottage  buildings  enclosed  the 
front  court,  but  the  well-laid  walks  seemed  to  lead  off 
to  grounds  beyond ;  and,  to  enjoy  the  twilight,  I  gave 
my  baggage  to  the  servant  and  started  for  a  stroll  be 
fore  going  to  my  room.  I  found  that  the  hotel  was 
surrounded  by  what  might  well  be  a  nobleman's  park, 
the  walks  apparently  endless  and  yet  carefully  and  neatly 
kept,  and  the  natural  advantages  of  the  undulating 
woodlands  charmingly  understood  and  improved.  I 
rambled  till  the  stars  came  out  to  light  me  back  to  sup- 


220        HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

per,  and  returned,  feeling  that  I  had  stumbled  upon  a 
most  unexpected  mixture  of  paradise  and  public  house. 
My  private  letters  have  told  you  with  what  pleasure, 
and  with  what  profit  to  health,  I  passed  two  or  three 
weeks  at  this  lovely  and  luxurious  sojourn.  Some  facts 
which  should  be  more  generally  known,  with  regard  to 
it,  I  will  copy  (in  a  note,*)  from  printed  documents,  on 
the  subject — but,  before  turning  to  my  more  personal 
befallings,  let  me  speak  admiringly  of  the  mere  hotel. 
It  is  furnished  and  kept  like  the  best  establishments  in 
cities.  You  could  be  no-where  more  luxuriously  com 
fortable.  The  wealthy  Western  families  whose  equi 
pages  daily  throng  and  enliven  the  gateway,  and  who 


*  "  The  Harrodsburg  Springs,  one  of  the  most  fashionable  water 
ing  places  in  the  State,  have  become  deservedly  celebrated  for  the 
medicinal  virtue  of  the  water,  and  as  a  delightful  summer  resort, 
both  to  the  votaries  of  health  and  pleasure.  Dr.  Christopher 
Graham,  the  amiable,  enterprising  and  intelligent  proprietor,  has 
spared  no  pains  or  expense  in  the  preparation  of  accommodation 
for  visitors,  the  improvements  having  already  cost  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  The  main  hotel  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
commodious  buildings  in  the  West,  and  the  surrounding  cottages 
are  admirably  arranged,  alike  to  promote  the  convenience  and 
comfort  of  the  occupants  The  grounds  are  elevated  and  exten 
sive  ;  adorned  with  every  variety  of  shrubbery  grown  in  America, 
interspersed  with  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  rare  exotics 
from  Europe  and  Asia,  and  traversed  by  wide  gravel  walks,  in 
tersecting  and  crossing  each  other  in  every  direction.  A  small 
and  beautiful  lake,  three  hundred  yards  long,  one  hundred  yards 
rn  width,  and  fifteen  feet  deep,  lately  excavated,  is  well  stored 
with  fish  of  the  finest  flavor,  and  its  glassy  surface  enlivened  by 
the  presence  of  many  wild  and  tame  water-fowls." — Collins' s  //'*- 

torn  nf  K i>n<  ncl- >! 

"  I  cannot  relinquish  the  subject  of  diseases  of  the  liver  with 
out  mentioning  in  terms  of  almost  unqualified  approbation,  my 
candid  opinions  of  the  waters  of  the  Ilarrodsburg  Springs,  situ- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          22 1 

take  rooms  and  reside  here  for  months  together,  with  a 
reference  to  the  fashionable  season,  are  the  best  evidence 
of  the  quality  of  the  accommodations.  A  good  table, 
and  a  good  society,  are  two  luxuries  which  I  believe 
you  may  always  make  sure  of,  at  Harrodsburg. 

But  I  wish  to  introduce  you  to  Dr.  Graham,  the  pro 
prietor  of  this  vast  establishment  The  Doctor  is  not 
an  individual.  And,  our  language,  by  the  way,  is  defi 
cient  in  the  phrase  which  should  express  what  he  is, 
more  than  an  individual.  We  want  something  which 
should  correspond  to  the  distinctions  we  make,  for  in 
stance,  in  speaking  of  land.  We  say  "  a  lot,"  "  a 


ated  in  the  county  of  Mercer,  and  State  of  Kentucky.  These  wa 
ters  are  well-known  to  operate  powerfully  and  beneficially  on  the 
aver  ;  nor  do  I  believe  there  have  been  many  instances,  if  an  ab 
solute  consumption,  or  an  induration  of  the  liver  had  taken  place, 
in  which  those  waters  have  not  been  efficient  in  removing  dis 
eases  of  the  liver.  Their  almost  certain  efficacy  is  so  well  known 
that  they  are  frequented  by  thousands  of  invalids,  during  the 
summer  months,  from  every  part  of  the  United  States.  And  I 
would  advise  all  persons  laboring  under  complaints  of  the  liver, 
or  under  dyspepsy  or  indigestion,  and  who  have  become  hopeless 
of  the  influence  of  medical  prescriptions,  never  to  omit,  if  it  be 
possible  for  them  to  travel  to  those  springs,  to  give  those  Avaters 
a  fair  trial.  They  are  situated  in  a  beautiful  and  healthful  coun 
try,  and  the  accommodations  are  always  such  as  to  insure  the 
comfort  and  convenience  of  all  invalids  who  approach  them." — 
Gu'in's  Domestic  Ahdicine. 

"  The  town  of  Harrodsburg,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Kentucky,  is 
situated  ten  miles  south  of  the  river  which  bears  that  name,  and 
near  the  geographical  centre  of  the  State.  The  site  is  elevated, 
rocky  and  rolling,  but  not  hilly  ;  and  the  surface  of  the  surround 
ing  country  has  the  same  character.  Neither  the  town,  nor  its 
immediate  vicinity  presents,  in  scenery,  anything  striking  or  pic 
turesque  ;  but  within  two  or  three  hours'  ride,  in  different  direc* 


222         HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

farm,"  "  a  tract,"  "  a  township,"  "  a  county,"— but, 
though  Dr.  Graham  is  at  least  a  township,  if  not  a 
county,  as  to  extent  of  influence  and  amount  of  value 
in  the  neighbourhood,  there  is  no  way  of  denominating 
him  as  more  than  "  a  lot."  To  say  he  is  an  enterpris 
ing  and  gentlemanly  man,  does  not  express  a  quarter 
of  an  acre  of  the  whole  county  he  is.  With  the  ten 
thousand  words  said  to  be  in  common  use,  it  seems  a 
pity  that  we  should  have  no  means  of  expressing  the 
graduated  magnitude  of  so  varying  a  thing  as  a  citizen 
where  a  single  individual  amounts  to  an  institution,  as 
Dr.  Graham  does — or  is  quite  equal,  as  he  is,  to  a  quo- 


tions,  the  perambulating  invalid  may  see  several  objects  not  un 
worthy  o£  notice  : 

1.  Union  Village,  inhabited  by  Shakers,  -who  exhibit  a  character 
istic  specimen  of  the  social,  economical  and  political  relations  of 
that  singular  people. 

2.  The  spot  denominated  Knob  Lick,  fifteen  miles  south-east 
of  Harrodsburg  ;  five  miles  from  the  old  and  pleasant  village  of 
Danville,  the  site  of  Centre  College  ;  and  two  miles  of  the  farm 
of  the  late  venerable  Governor  Shelby.     The  knobs  or  hillocks, 
are  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  high,  more  or  less  conical,  some 
of  them  insulated,  others  connected  by  crumbling  isthmuses — the 
whole  forming  a  group  of  barren,  conoidal  eminences,  which  are 
finally  contrasted  with  the  deep  verdure  of  the  surrounding  plain. 
They  consist  of  a  marlaceous'  slate  clay,  strongly  inclined  to  dis 
integration  and  reposing  on  shale. 

3.  The  gray,  mural  cliffs  of  the  Kentucky  River,  which  flows 
in  a  narrow  and  winding  ravine,  nearly  four  hundred  feet  in 
depth      This  great  natural  canal  may  be  visited  with  facility  by 
several  roads  ;  and  offers,  in  the  grandeur  of  its  high  and  precipit 
ous  banks,  embellished  with  evergreens,  a  great  deal  to  interest 
all  who  have  a  taste  for  the  sublime  and  beautiful.     But  we  must 
return  to  that  which  is  more  important  to  the  invalid. 

The  Springs. — These  are  six  or  eight  in  number.  They  burst 
out  near  the  summit  of  the  ridges  on  which  the  village  of  Har- 
rodsburgh  is  built.  The  mass  of  these  ridges  is  composed  of  lime- 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.          223 

ij  or  a  committee,  or  a  majority — we  should  be  able 
to  express  it  by  something  shorter  than  writing  his 
biography.  I  hereby  put  in  my  plea  for  this  amend 
ment  to  our  language. 

You  would  be  likely  to  draw  an  erroneous  conclusion 
as  to  the  Doctor's  character,  from  the  habits  of  his  horse. 
Of  all  the  gentlemen  in  the  county  he  is  probably  the 
most  prompt,  expeditious  and  energetic  man  of  busi 
ness — yet  his  horse  (which  he  lent  me  for  a  ride  every 
day)  walked  me  straight  up  to  every  carriage  and  horse 
man  on  the  road,  and,  spite  of  whip  and  other  remon 
strance,  came  to  a  dead  halt,  and  stayed  there,  till  he 


stone,  much  of  which  is  of  a  fine  grain,  and  impregnated  with 
magnesia. 

The  water  from  one  of  them  has  been  examined,  with  some  care, 
by  Doctor  Best  and  myself. 

The  water  contains  the  following  salts  : 

1.  Sulphate  magnesia,  in  large  quantities.     This  is  the  char 
acteristic  ingredient. 

2.  Carbonate  magnesia,  in  a  small  quantity. 

3.  Sulphate  of  soda,  do. 

4.  Sulphate  of  lime,  do. 
5    Carbonate  of  lime,  in  minute,  do 

6.  Iron,  (probably  in  the  state  of  a  sulphate,)  a  trace. 

7  A  minute  quantity  of  sulpherretted  hydrogen,  as  I  ascertain 
ed  by  experiments  made  at  the  spring  itself. 

From  this  analysis,  it  appears  that  the  waters  of  the  Harrods- 
burg  Springs  are  analagous,  in  the  materials  which  they  hold  in 
solution,  to  the  celebrated  Seidlitz  Fountain  of  Bohemia.  Their 
predominant  ingredient  is  sulphate  of  magnesia,  or  Epsom-salt : 
though  the  other  matter  which  they  contain,  especially  the  sul 
phate  of  iron,  small  as  is  its  quantity,  may  contribute  to  their  be 
neficial  effects. 

I  am  not  in  possession  of  the  facts  necessary  to  a  full  expose  of 
their  therapeutic  powers,  but  that  these  are  so  great  as  justly  to 
place  them  at  the  head  of  all  the  known  mineral  springs  in  the 
States  bordering  on  the  Ohio  Kiver,  I  have  no  doubt." 


224          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

had  heard  some  conversation.  It  was  occasionally  a 
little  embarrassing  to  me,  for,  where  there  were  ladies 
in  the  carriage,  the  possible  habits  of  the  horse  were 
not  likely  to  occur  to  them  ;  and,  for  a  stranger  to  stop 
them  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  and  have  nothing  to  say, 
looked  like  rather  a  thinly  covered  indulgence  of  curi 
osity.  But  the  Doctor,  though  he  has  time  and  polite 
ness  for  everybody,  (as  this  confirmed  habit  of  his 
tall  bay  horse  undeniably  betrays,)  is  still  of  a  most  om 
nipresent  where-he's-wanted-ness.  No  guest  comes  or 
departs  without  the  courteous  host's  welcome  or  fare 
well.  No  beau's  boots  have  had  their  chalked  bottoms 
mis-read,  and  then  left  at  the  wrong  door,  without  an  in 
stant  meeting  between  the  protruded  head  of  inquiry 
and  the  rectifying  master  of  the  house.  No  invalid 
longs  to  tell  how  he  has  passed  the  night,  without  find 
ing  the  kindest  of  listeners  in  the  Doctor  ;  and  no  young 
lady  walks  alone  on  the  portico  without  the  Doctor's 
large.  Spanish  eyes  ready  at  half  a  glance  to  come  and 
unload  her  heart  of  its  eloquent  unexplainableness.  The 
innumerable  things  attended  to,  for  the  guest's  comfort, 
and  the  quantity  of  time,  chat  and  personal  presence  to 
spare,  on  the  part  of  the  handsome  man  who  does  it  all, 
was  the  miracle  of  my  daily  perplexity  while  at  Har- 
rodsburg.  But  you  see,  from  this,  what  sort  of  house 
and  host  you  may  find,  should  you  go  that  far  south, 
ward  to  anticipate  a  June. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          225 

And  the  spirit  of  the  age  was  not  likely  to  be  un- 
watched  by  the  vigilant  eye  of  Dr.  Graham.  With  his 
experience  as  surgeon  in  the  army  and  practising  phy 
sician,  he  knows  the  value  of  health  in  a  world  of  care 
and  contention ;  and  the  general  pursuit  of  it,  in  con 
nection  with  pleasure,  opened  his  eyes  to  the  movements 
of  the  day — the  general  Siamese  between  hydropathy  and 
watering-place.  Few  belles  have  papas  and  mammas 
of  undamaged  constitutions.  Few  flaunt  in  lace  in  the 
evening,  who  would  not  be  fairer  as  well  as  healthier 
for  a  "  pack  in  a  wet  sheet"  in  the  morning.  Those 
who  have  made  a  fortune  usually  have  sore  need  of  re 
novating  juices  to  enjoy  it.  The  summer  demand  for 
health  and  pleasure  will  so  combine  the  family  inclina 
tions  as  to  bring  old  and  young  to  the  same  place,  if 
that  place  furnish  facilities  for  both.  A  ball-room,  a 
water-cure  establishment,  and  a  good  table,  are  the 
three  supplies  to  combine,  for  a  world  that  employs  its 
summer  solstice  to  flirt,  freshen  and  fatten. 

The  hydropathic  establishment  which  has  been  add 
ed  to  the  costly  hotel  at  Harrodsburg,  is  probably  as 
complete  and  well  arranged  as  any  one  in  the  country. 
No  pains  and  expense  have  been  spared  upon  it.  Dr. 
Graham  came  to  New  York,  and  after  much  inquiry, 
selected  DR.  HOUGHTON,  (whose  Lectures  on  Hydro 
pathy  are  so  well  known,)  as  the  best  medical  man  who 

could  best  found  the  system  of  Hydropathy  in  the  West. 
10* 


226         HEALTH     TRIP     TO   THE     TROPICS. 

This  gentleman  has  the  present  charge  of  the  estab 
lishment  at  Harrodsburg.  I  was  a  fortnight  under  the 
treatment,  while  there,  and  may  perhaps  write  of  it, 
when  my  experience  shall  give  me  more  authority  to 
pronounce  upon  my  present  impressions.  In  Hough- 
ton's  skill  and  knowledge  of  the  subject  I  have  unlim 
ited  confidence.  To  a  thorough  medical  education  he 
adds  a  characteristic  carefulness  and  patience  of  analy 
sis,  and  these  advantages,  with  the  manners  and  habits 
of  a  most  refined  gentleman,  form,  desirable  hands  for 
an  invalid  to  full  into.  I  feel  very  grateful  to  him.  All 
will,  who  come  under  his  kind  and  intelligent  care. 

Of  the  town  of  Harrodsburg  itself  I  have  said  no 
thing.  It  has  about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  a  neigh 
bourhood  of  wealthy  proprietors,  lots  of  livery  stables 
and  "  dry  goods"  stores,  several  Female  Academies, 
and  (a  superfluity  for  you  and  me,  my  dear  General,  as 
we  are  not  in  politics)  Salt  River  only  one  mile  off! 
Yes,  I  rode  "  up  Salt  River"  every  day — and  a  charming 
stream  with  a  green  bank  through  the  woodlands,  that 
celebrated  refuge  of  disappointment  turns  out  to  be. 
It  rises  near  here  and  empties  into  the  Ohio  just  below 
Louisville.  In  the  quantities  of  mint  that  crush  under 
the  horse's  feet  as  he  follows  its  windings,  I  could  smell 
nothing  prophetic  of  the  party  it  is  preparing  to  wel 
come  from  the  coming  campaign. 

Things  dull  in  themselves  are  sometimes  valuable  for 


H  E'A  LTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          227 

what  they  suggest.  My  letter  has  been  written  with  a 
brain  somewhat  out  of  condition,  but  if  you  know  more 
of  Harrodsburg  Springs  by  reading  it,  its  dulness  may 
well  be  pardoned.  Yours,  etc. 


LETTER    No,  23, 


AN  OMNIBUS  IN  THE  WOODS  OF  KENTUCKY ITS  USE  Afi   A 

STAGE-COACH FOUR     MEN     AND    A    FIGHTING  COCK    AS 

TRAVELLING  COMPANIONS IGNOMINIOUS    TREATMENT    OF 

THE  WARRIOR HIS  DIET  BEFORE  FIGHTING GENTLE 
MAN  LENDING  HIS  POCKET-COMB  TO  THE  COMPANY DIS 
LIKE  OF  LARGE  LAND  OWNERS INDIAN  CREEK,  AND  A 

CLIFF'S  RESEMBLANCE  TO  A  LADY'S  FOOT — NAMING  IT 
AFTER  THE  FOOT  OF  A  KENTUCKY  BELLE  OF  TWENTY 

YEARS  AGO WONDERFUL  SCENERY  OF  KENTUCKY  RIVER 

COMPARATIVELY  UNKNOWN THE  FERRYMAN  AT  BROOK 
LYN SHAKER  VILLAGE  AND  A  SIGHT  OF  ELDER  BRYANT 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE    FEATURES    OF    THEIR    VILLAGE 

AND  PROPERTY SPECULATIONS  AS   TO    COMMUNITY   AND 

CELIBACY,  ETC. 

Harrodsburg  Springs,  Kentucky.  June. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

It  reminded  me  of  you — for  it  was  like  falling  in  with 
one  of  the  vertebrae  of  Broadway — to  find  an  omnibus 
at  the  door  of  my  Kentucky  hotel.  I  had  been  reading 
of  the  fossil  remains  of  Mammoth  Cave,  and  my  first 
thought  was  that  of  stumbling  unexpectedly  on  an 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          229 

organic  specimen  of  New  York  or  "  the  General" — an 
tiquities  both,  to  me,  so  long  seemed  the  four  months 
since  I  had  seen  them.  The  omnibus  was  doing  duty 
as  a  stage-coach,  and  was  to  take  me  thirty  miles  to 
Harrodsburg.  How  so  city-fled  a  thing  had  followed 
the  setting  sun  so  far  over  the  horizon,  I  could  not  con 
jecture;  but  with  four  horses,  and  the  baggage  ou  top 
it  bowled  merrily  away,  and  worked  as  well,  I  thought, 
as  if  picking  up  ladies  in  Broadway.  The  sixpence- 
hole,  by  the  way,  was  not  in  operation,  and  should 
have  been  stuffed  with  straw,  for  it  let  in  the  dust  un 
comfortably. 

My  traveling  companions  were  five — four  men  and  a 
game-cock.  The  latter  was  sewed  up  in  a  pocket 
handkerchief,  and  with  only  his  head  out,  was  treated 
ignominiously  as  a  bundle.  I  inquired  into  his  history 
as  he  rolled  about  on  the  floor,  and  on  hearing  that  he 
had  been  the  victor  at  the  Lexington  races,  the  day 
before,  killing  three  successive  antagonists,  and  winning 
considerable  money  for  his  master,  I  could  not  but 
philosophize  on  what  may  follow  glory,  in  the  ex 
perience  of  heroes.  Here  was  a  warrior,  with  the  bood 
of  battle  still  unwashed  from  his  crest,  and  who,  as 
Hoffman  says  of  the  men  of  Churubusco, 

"  Was  equal  in  the  deeds  he  wrought, 
To  any  common  five," 


230          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

tied  up  in  the  base  retirement  of  a  pocket-handkerchief, 
and  trying  in  vain  to  find  a  support  and  hold  his  head 
up.  The  ingratitude  of  this  world's  fought-for !  I 
made  some  inquiries  as  to  the  education  and  diet  of  the 
brave  bird — overcoming,  meanwhile  ,  considerable  dis 
gust  at  his  master's  brutal  way  of  kicking  him  about 
the  floor  of  the  omnibus ;  and  as  it  may  be  useful  to 
know  how  to  get  ready  for  glory,  I  will  record  the  pro 
cess.  The  Irishman  who  owned  the  game-cock,  and 
made  a  business  of  it,  gave  me  all  the  dietetics  in  a 
single  sentence :  "  For  three  weeks  afore  the  fight,  feed 
the  feller  on  egg,  corn-meal,  rock-candy  and  barly- 
water."  In  case  of  an  invasion  from  the  Lobos  Islands, 
my  dear  General,  you  may  be  called  on  to  fight  for 
glory  and  guano,  and  the  recipe  may  be  worth  sticking 
under  your  belt. 

My  other  omnibus  companions  were  free  and  kindly. 
Conversation  was  unembarrassed.  The  best-dressed 
man  of  the  three  pulled  a  horn  comb  from  his  pocket, 
after  a  while,  combed  his  own  head  and.  then  passed 
around  the  utensil.  All  accepted  and  made  use  of  it, 
till  it  came  in  turn  to  me,  and  (not  to  give  offence)  I 
apologized  for  declining  it,  on  the  ground  of  having  a 
curly  head  that  took  care  of  itself.  The  comb-lender 
was  a  hater  of  the  men  who  "  owned  such  a  bloody 
quantity  of  land,  a  poor  man  couldn't  get  a  place  to  call 
his  own."  He  pointed  to  a  porter's  lodge  on  one  of  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          23 1 

beautiful  woodland  estates  we  were  passing,  (the  road,, 
for  thirty  miles,  by  the  way,  seeming  to  pass  through  a 
lordly  English  park,)  and  said  he  liked  to  see  a  shanty 
with  a  pig-trough  at  the  door,  and  fences  around  small 
lots — not  such  a  sign  as  that,  of  a  man's  gobbling  up 
more  than  his  share.  As  to  the  old  Kentuck  that  God 
made,  belonging  to  a  few  of  these  cussed  aristocrats,  he 
didn't  believe  it  was  good  law.  You  might  as  well  do 
without  it.  Why  didn't  Cassius  Clay  take  up  that  idee, 
and  not  be  trying  to  make  gentlemen  out  of  niggers? 
Thus  discoursing  and  exchanging  knowledge,  we 
arrived  at  Kentucky  River — and  with  rny  eyes  wide 
open — for  the  descent  to  its  banks,  through  the  valley 
of  what  is  called  Indian  Creek,  was  a  perfect  gem  for 
the  artist.  The  bed  of  this  tributary  stream  is  deep, 
through  precipitous  rocks ;  and  the  road  follows  one  of 
the  sides  of  the  ravine,  on  a  sort  of  corkscrew  shelf, 
every  inch  revealing  some  new  combination  of  cliff  and 
foliage.  There  was  one  graceful  point,  more  particular- 
y,  held  forward  like  a  lady's  foot  to  a  shoe-maker's 
measure,  of  which  I  quite  longed  for  a  sketch  to  bring 
away.  The  prettiest  known  foot  of  the  fashionable 
world  having  been  born  in  the  immediate  neighbour 
hood,  I  ventured  to  name  this  projecting  instep  of  the 
lovely  mountain  above ;  and  I  beg  some  friendly  artist 
to  pencil  and  bring  it  along  in  his  portfolio.  Governor 
Adair's  estate  is  within  a  mile  or  two,  and  "  Florida's 


232          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

foot"  should  be  the  name  of  the  loveliest  reminder  of 
his  daughter's  beauty.  The  shower  of  sonnets  written 
to  it  at  Saratoga,  twenty  years  ago,  might  be  still  traced 
in  the  fertility  of  Parnassus. 

And  now,  my  dear  Morris,  consider  KENTUCKY  RIVER 
presented  formally  to  your  acquaintance  and  particular 
attention — a  stranger  you  should  see  and  know  more  of. 
Deepen  Trenton  Falls  for  one  or  two  hundred  feet, 
smooth  its  cascades  into  a  river,  and  extend  it  for  thirty 
miles — thirty  miles  between  perpendicular  precipices  from 
three  to  Jive  hundred  feet  high,  and  only  'a  biscuit-toss 
across  at  the  top — and  you  have  a  river  of  whose  re 
markable  beauty  the  world  is  strangely  ignorant.  At 
the  point  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  route  to  Harrods- 
burg,  the  banks  though  sublime  even  here,  are  less 
lofty  than  elsewhere.  Of  another  visit  to  it,  at  a  bolder 
point,  I  have  some  pleaeant  memoranda,  from  which  I 
may  scribble,  in  this  or  another  letter — but  meantime  I 
must  record  the  loveliness  of  the  crossing  at  Brooklyn 
Ferry.  This  Kentucky  Brooklyn  consists  of  one  house 
under  the  rock,  one  fine-looking  and  herculean  ferry 
man,  who  is  also  postmaster  and  father  of  the  family 
that  constitutes  the  population  of  the  place,  and  one 
broad-bottomed  scow,  into  which  the  stage-coach  is 
driven,  and  which  is  pulled  across  by  one  negro,  on  a 
rope  pulley.  In  that  ten  minutes  of  gliding  noiselessly 
from  the  base  of  one  cliff  to  another,  the  traveller  who 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          233 

loves  scenery  enjoys  a  feast.  That  postmaster  ferry 
man  looks  like  a  capitally  good  fellow,  (let  me  chronicle,) 
and  to  go  and  lodge  a  week  with  him,  and  pull  up  and 
down  stream  in  a  "  dug-out,"  would  be  a  delightful 
thing  for  an  artist  to  do — a  thing  I  have  put  down 
among  my  own  life's  many  little  reluctant  foregoneings. 
Some  idler  man  will  perhaps  thank  me  for  this  turning 
down  of  a  leaf  of  travel  for  his  notice. 

A  village  of  Shakers  lies  a  few  miles  beyond  Ken 
tucky  Eiver,  and  it  is  curious  to  see  the  effect  of  celiba 
cy  on  barns  and  fences.  Things  look  too  virtuous  for 
comfort.  I  never  saw  such  excessive  neatness.  The 
stones  of  the  walls  looked  as  exemplary  as  if  every  one 
had  been  catechised  and  wiped  clean  with  the  corner 
of  an  apron.  Nature  had  been  permitted  to  retain  no 
more  beauty  than  the  laws  of  fertility  made  inevitable. 
The  rich  apple-trees  looked  sorry  they  were  such  sin 
ners  as  to  be  beautiful.  The  green  grass  seemed  rebuk 
ed  and  overawed.  A  dozen  large  stone  houses  were 
severely  well  built,  and  the  eight  or  ten  women,  whom 
we  saw  going  to  and  fro,  turned  in  their  toes  and  el  • 
bows  as  if  carefully  taught  to  be  ungraceful.  I  walked 
to  an  enclosed  well  for  a  drink  of  water,  while  the 
broad-brimmed  postmaster  overhauled  the  mails ;  and 
found  I  was  within  the  fence  of  Elder  Bryant,  the 
head  man  of  the  community.  It  was  Saturday  evening, 
and  he  was  at  the  open  window,  shaving  himself  for 


234          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

Sunday — the  morrow's  law  of  rest  to  which  the  incor 
rigible  beard  pays  no  attention,  being  enforced  upon  the 
more  manageable  soap  and  razor.  Though  in  his  shirt 
sleeves,  and  with  a  face  half  covered  with  lather,  the 
Elder  had  a  noble  and  commanding  presence.  How 
so  intellectual  and  dignified  a  man  could  ever  dance  with 
the  women,  to  worship  God — and  believe  in  it — was 
hard  to  realize.  But  he  looks  sincere  and  good. 

One  cannot  but  admire  the  operation  of  the  tenets  of 
this  sect,  as  to  business  matters.  Though,  by  their 
creed,  babies  are  iniquitous  and  the  world  ought  to 
come  to  an  end,  they  raise  better  vegetables  and  breed 
better  cattle  for  the  support  of  the  present  offspring  of 
sin  than  any  other  class  of  farmers.  I  am  assured  that 
every  article  of  produce  from  the  Shaker  village  brings 
a  third  more  of  price  than  any  other  in  the  markets  of 
the  surrounding  towns.  They  prosper.  They  add 
yearly  to  their  stock,  and  their  land.  What  is  the 
secret  ?  Is  it  in  the  community  principle  as  to  property, 
and  the  abstinent  principle  as  to  person  ?  Is  it  in  em 
ploying  the  women  in  the  raising  of  crops  instead  of 
the  raising  of  children — reducing  them  to  the  level  of 
the  men,  as  labourers  in  the  field  as  \vell  as  sharers  of  the 
profits  ?  Is  it  that  taste,  grace  and  pleasure  are  im 
poverishing  principles,  and  that  thrift  and  beauty  can 
not,  in  this  fallen  world,  dwell  together  ?  Or,  has  the 
awkward  dancing  or  "  trying  celibacy"  nothing  to  do 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          235 

witli  it,  and  is  it  merely  that  the  world  is  too  largely 
constructed  for  any  "  one-horse  concern,"  and  it  is 
against  the  natural  order  of  things  for  an  individual  to 
be  sole  proprietor  of  anything  ?  "Who  will  tell  us  how 
\\Q  can  borrow  Shaker  prosperity  and  leave  Shaker 
uglinesses  behind  ?  The  hominy  of  human  happiness  is 
so  hard  to  separate  from  the  corn's  cob  and  kernel-skin  ! 
After  such  a  sermon,  this  seems  a  good  place  for  an 
Amen — so  Yours,  etc., 


LETTER    No,  M, 


REMEDY  FOR  ONE  GREAT  NUISANCE,  IN  SLAVERY NORTH 
ERN    CITIES    DISFIGURED    BY  THEIR  SUBURBS SUMMER'S 

EVENING    IN    KENTUCKY LEXINGTON    LIKE    OLD    NORTH- 
END  IN  BOSTON FAMILIES  PASSING  THE  EVENING  ON  THE 

DOOR-STEPS — REGRETS    THAT   HAD   BEEN   UNNECESSARY 

AS  TO  FALLING  OFF  IN  WESTERN  BEAUTY ARISTOCRATIC 

MOULD   OF   REPUBLICAN   BELLES SUDDEN   TERMINATION 

OF  PRINCIPAL   STREET  IN    OPEN    COUNTRY LOOK    AT    A 

CHILDREN'S  PARTY,  OVER  A    FENCE — A    NEGRO    AT    MY 

SHOULDER  ENJOYING  THE  SAME  STOLEN  PLEASURE FIRST 

VISIT  TO  ASHLAND   BY   MOONLIGHT MR.    CLAY!S   LOVE- 

ABLENESS HIS  RESIDENCE  CLASSIC  GROUND,  EVEN  BEFORE 

HIS    DEATH DESCRIPTION    OF    HOUSE   AND    GROUNDS 

CRAZY  WANDERER   WHOM   I   MET  IN   THE    GROVE CURI 
OUS  MONAMANIA  OF  AUTOBIOGRAPHY,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Lexington,  Kentucky,  June,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

Slavery  has  an  advantage  which  I  realized  in  a  twi 
light  stroll  at  Lexington.  It  ensures  the  absence  of 
what  is  perhaps  the  greatest  nuisance  of  the  cities  of 
Free  states  and  particularly  of  New-York.  With  all 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.          237 

the  splendour  and  luxury  of  your  great  metropolis,  it 
is,  as  you  know,  with  its  suburbs,  a  jewe)  ^et  in  filth — 
a  two-mile  purgatory  of  shanties  and  pig-styes,  horrible 
to  see  and  smell,  lying  between  it  and  the  country,  on 
every  road  that  leads  out  of  it.  The  labouring  classes 
live  in  the  suburbs  of  towns  at  the  North.  At  the 
South  they  live,  each  with  his  master,  and  either  in  com 
pulsory  cleanliness  or  in  dirt  hidden  from  the  public 
eye. 

I  dare  say  there  are  several  features  of  a  summer's 
evening  in  Kentucky  which  are  more  artistically  pic 
turesque  than  your  Northern  mind  would  be  made  up 
for,  and  I  will  try  to  give  you  a  general  idea  of  the  scene 
in  which  I  noticed  more  particularly  what  I  speak  of 
above.  "With  the  rest  of  the  two  hundred  hats  my  well 
worn  "  Beebe"  had  been  snatched  up  for  the  sudden 
after-tea  efflux  to  the  front  of  the  Hotel  ;  and,  on  chairs 
and  in  groups  the  promiscuous  multitude  (for  court  was 
in  session)  thronged  the  sidewalk  on  the  street — lawyers 
listening  and  clients  discoursing,  and  witnesses,  Judges 
and  jurymen  all  smoking  uncompromisingly  under  the 
trees — myself  the  naturally  inquisitive  stranger  for  whom 
"Western  politeness  provides  that  the  nearest  citizen  shall 
be  the  courteous  entertainer.  Henry  Clay's  "  office" 
was  "just  around  the  corner,"  and  this,  and  the  names 
of  the  most  distinguished-looking  persons  in  the  crowd 
on  the  side-walk,  I  had  learned  from  a  gentleman  at  my 


238          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

elbow,  when  the  light  began  to  be  rosy.  I  was  up  to  the 
eyes  in  men  and  losing  a  sunset.  The  street  to  the  right 
looked  as  if  that  way  led  to  gardens.  I  started  for  a 
stroll. 

Lexington  has  the  air  of  being — as  a  part  of  old 
North-End  in  Boston  used  to  be — aristocratically  and 
conservatively  primitive.  The  same  sidewalk  that  once 
owed  a  man  room  for  his  front  steps  owes  it  still  ;  and 
the  public  is  bound  to  walk  round  them,  and  round  his 
family  if  they  are  seated  on  them,  enjoying  the  evening 
air.  The  parlour  windows,  on  the  whole  of  this  princi 
pal  thoroughfare  of  Lexingto'n,  are  plump  on  the  street. 

The  "first  citizens  "  live  here,  as  you  may  see  by  the 
style  of  the  ladies  on  the  door-steps.  They  sit  out  of  doors 
after  tea — mothers,  daughters  and  children—  and  groups 
of  more  stylish  mould,  more  native-ly  thorough-bred,  and 
more  unconsciously  and  undeniably  of  the  world's  'porce 
lain  undashed  with  crockery,"  you  would  not  find  by 
unroofing  Belgrave  Square  in  London,  than  by  walking 
along  the  door-steps  of  this  capital  of  Kentucky  on  a  sum 
mer's  evening.  It  was  a  succession  of  lovely  pictures — 
the  range  and  quality,  of  the  beauty  wThich  I  saw,  giving 
me  double  pleasure  from  correcting  an  error  in  regrets. 
Such  were  the  'Western  and  Southern  belles,  who  used 
to  come  to  Saratoga.  I  had  vowed  such  came  no  more 
— piously  yielding  to  the  inference,  (when  requested) 
that  the  "falling  off"  was  in  the  scales  of  the  eyes  that 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          239 

looked  for  them.  But  here  was  Lexington  as  I  should 
have  thought  to  find  it  twenty  years  ago — a  garden  of 
most  distinguished-looking  girls,  the  plant  indigenous 
and  the  qualities  not  running  out  with  repetition.  The 
several  visits  that  I  have  chanced  to  make  to  this  same 
town,  in  going  and  coining  to  the  different  points  of 
interest  in  the  State,  have  abundantly  confirmed  this 
impresssion.  I  saw  dozens  in  every  walk,  any  one  of 
whom  would  be,  (like  an  American  belle  whom  I  re 
member  in  London,)  the  "  season's  wonder  at  Almack's." 
How  we  come  by  this  "  blood  look,"  (which  is  so  much 
more  common  in  our  Democratic  republic  than  -in  coun 
tries  where  it  is  more  prized  and  guarded,)  I  could  never 
satisfactorily  explain — but  physiologists,  disposed  to 
study  the  problem,  might  well  begin  in  Kentucky. 

Passing  perhaps  half  a  mile  of  family  groups  enjoy 
ing  the  sunset  out  of  doors — (with  a  delicious  bit  of 
contrast  to  each  one  in  the  group  of  happy-faced  slaves., 
of  all  ages,  gathered  at  the  alley-gate  opening  from  the 
side  of  the  house) — I  came  suddenly  to  the  end  of  the 
sidewalk.  The  street  stopped  abruptly  in  a  grassy 
meadow.  I  looked  around  with  a  vague  feeling  of  in 
quiry  for  something  missing,  but  it  was  a  minute  or 
two  before  I  saw  what  it  was.  There  was  no  suburb 
Where  were  the  poor  people  ?  AVhere  was  the  usual 
entrenchment  of  a  city — the  pigstyes  and  the  poverty  ? 
The  air  of  the  fragrant  open  fields  came  to  me  as  I  stood 


240          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE    .TROPICS. 

at  the  end  of  the  street.  'A  country  fence  commenced 
where  the  paving-stones  ended ;  and,  at  a  short  dis 
tance  up  the  road  stood  a  rural  villa  just  visible  through 
shubbery  and  flowers.  The  merry  black  faces,  with 
the  numberless  ebony  babies,  which  I  had  seen  in  the 
group  at  the  side  entrance  of  every  house  as  I  came 
along,  were  instead  of  this  nuisance  I  missed — negro 
comfort  iveU  distributed  instead  of  white  ivretchedness 
filthy  in  a  heap.  The  contrast — say  between  Lexing 
ton  and  New- York  in  this  respect — might  as  well  be 
taken  into  the  account  by  the  precipitators  of  abo 
lition. 

I  stepped  off  the  sidewalk  into  the  country,  on  the 
evening  I  refer  to,  and  enjoyed  a  charming  little  bit  of 
stolen  pleasure — stolen  by  looking  over  a  fence.  I 
shared  it  with  a  negro,  who  I  suddenly  dicovered,  was 
looking  over  the  fence  at  my  shoulder,  and  who,  with 
spade  and  basket,  was  returning  from  his  work,  not 
too  tired  to  be  made  happy  by  a  pretty  sight.  We  stood 
ten  minutes — we  two  uninvited  inquisitives — watching 
a  children's  party  in  the  grounds  of  a  cottage ;  and  a 
lovelier  scene  could  scarcely  have  been  arranged  by  a 
painter.  The  lamps  in  the  drawing-room  were  just 
beginning  to  brighten  through  the  shrubbery  with  the 
thickening  twilight,  and  a  party  of  grown-up  people 
thronged  the  porticoes ;  but  the  extensive  grounds  out 
side  were  populous  with  the  blue  and  pink  sashes  and 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          241 

the  lively  little  jackets  and  trousers,  and  scores  of  eager 
voices  went  up  in  a  general  hum  of  happiness  whose 
key-note  was  very  contagious.  I  caught  the  happiness 
with  hearing  it.  So  did  Cuffee  at  my  elbow ;  though 
his  heart  made  itself  audible  in  a  chuckle,  which  (or  some 
some  other  voicing)  mine  needed.  In  and  out  of  the 
openings  of  the  serpentine  walks  came  and  went  the 
little  couples — some  only  merry,  some  confidentially  en 
gaged  in  imparting  a  secret — arms  over  necks,  heads 
uncovered  in  the  warm  air,  grace  all  unconscious — a  lit 
tle  Eden  peopled  for  a  night,  and  briefly  innocent  and 
beautiful.  How  little  they  knew  how  much  pleasure 
they  were  sending  out  between  the  pickets  of  the  fence 
that  enclosed  them — how  far  and  how  well,  over  moun 
tain  and  lake,  the  chance  sight  of  them  had  brought  the 
images  of  three  others  to  be  unseen  figures  in  the  pic 
ture  !  My  children  were  there  !  So  sometimes,  by  the 
wayside,  falls  what  little  happiness  the  traveller  gets — 
though  I  am  not  sure  you  will  think  such  "  airy  no 
things1'  worth  reading  of. 

The  moon  was  bright,  and  ASHLAND — Clay's  residence 
was  but  a  mile  farther  on.  I  was  in  the  humor  for  com 
muning  with  what  was  absent,  and  the  home  of  the 
"  gentleman  statesman"  was  vacant  of  its  owner.  The 
promise  of  his  recovery  wras  brighter  when  he  had  last 
been  heard  from,  but  he  was  ill  and  in  danger — a  pa 
tient  whose  sick  bed  a  nation  was  watching.  I  waf 


242         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

among  the  many  who  could  not  help  loving  as  well  as 
honouring  Mr.  Clay — and,  indeed,  that  all  who  had  ever 
seen  him  did  not  tenderly  love  him,  must  have  been 
because, 

"  He  -who  surpasses  or  subdues  mankind, 
Must  look  down  on,  the  hate  of  those  below." 

He  was  wonderfully  loveable,  by  that  common  yet  mys 
terious  law  of  magnetism  which  regulates  that  matter, 
and  there  are  probably  few  on  whom  he  had  ever  concen 
trated  voice  and  eye,  who  would  not  have  felt  as  I  did 
under  that  Western  moon — tearfully  persuaded  to  make 
its  light  of  that  night  sacred,  by  going  to  see  his  groves 
lit  up  by  it.  Ashland  already — before  the  death  of  him 
who  had  planted  its  trees — was  classic  ground.  The  love 
he  had  inspired  had  over-ruled  the  niggard  with-hold- 
ing  of  the  tribute  to  greatness — denied  commonly  till 
the  ear  is  deaf  to  it.  There  was  his  home — honoured 
beyond  all  possible  reversion,  though  its  door  might 
still  open  to  him.  Of  whom  was  this  ever  more  true 
than  of  Mr.  Clay? 

The  summer  dew  just  made  the  dust  heavy,  and  the 
path  along  the  wayside  was  like  a  carpet.  I  followed 
the  road  (which  was  but  a  continuation  of  the  principal 
street  of  Lexington,)  and  inquiring  the  localities,  of  the 
only  foot  passenger  whom  I  met  soon  came  to 
the  tall  locust-trees  which  overhang  the  gate.  Two 
square  posts  hewn  roughly  from  the  log,  marked 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          243 

the  entrance  ;  the  gate  was  ajar,  and  the  fleckered  moon 
light,  along  the  avenue  curving  to  the  left  seemed  pav 
ing  it  with  plates  of  silver.  I  followed  the  path,  some 
what  grass-grown  and  neglected,  and  stood  presently 
before  a  manorial-looking  mansion  of  octagonal 
shape,  with  wings  projecting  upon  the  lawn.  To  the 
left  the  grove  closed  in  upon  it,  but  to  the  right,  a 
cluster  of  small  buildings,  and  lights  and  voices,  seemed 
to  indicate  the  residence  of  the  "  people"  of  the  estate. 
The  rear  of  the  large  mansion  opening  upon  the 
green-house  and  garden,  was  apparently  the  part  oc 
cupied  by  Mrs.  Clay. 

Not  venturing  to  intrude  farther  I  passed  off  by  a 
path  leading  under  the  majestic  trees  to  the  left,  and 
was  musing  on  the  Providence  which  leaves  the  per 
fected  oak,  such  as  I  saw  above  me,  to  flourish  through 
long  and  strong  maturity,  but  removes,  just  when  per 
fected  to  greatest  usefulness,  the  man  who  planted  it — the 
tree  having  a  continuity  of  ripeness  which  is  denied  to 
man — when  I  was  accosted  by  a  gentlemen  of  a  very 
large  stature,  who  seemed  to  have  been  seeking  soli- 
tued,  and  musing  idly  like  myself.  I  rejoiced  at  first  in 
the  apparent  opportunity  to  learn  something  of  Mr. 
Clay,  as  seen  at  home — but  I  soon  found  I  was  addres 
sing  a  mind  gone  astray.  The  only  reply  to  rny  ques 
tions  was  what  professed  to  a  history  of  the  tall  broad- 
shouldered  gentleman  himself.  He  said  he  was  the 


244     "       HEALTH    TRIP    TO   THE    TROPICS. 

celebrated  Indian  Doctor,  James  G-.  Hardin,  of  whom 
I  must  have  heard — that  he  had  cured  one  gentleman 
who  had  given  him  four  thousand  dollars — that  he 
could  give  his  daughters  four  millions  apiece — that,  in  the 
course  of  his  practice,  he  had  made  countless  money, 
but  that  it  was  by  "  cutting  deep  info  the  rich,  but  let 
ting  the  poor  slide."  I  thought  this  last  a  good 
phrase,  and  tolerably  sane  as  a  rule  of  medical  practice. 
The  Doctor  did  not  seem  to  be  accustomed  to  good  lis 
teners.  He  broke  on0  abruptly  at  a  curve  of  the  path, 
and,  turning  again  toward  the  house  round  which  he 
he  appeared  to  be  habitually  and  innocently  a  wan 
derer,  left  me  without  even  a  good  night.  But  he  had 
broken  the  thread  of  my  musings.  His  fragmented 
autobiograpy  would  not  again  give  place  to  the  first-con 
jured  spirit  of  the  spot,  I  remembered  that  I  was 
fatigued,  and  slowly  paced  my  way  back  to  the  hotel — 
visiting  Ashland  again,  however,  and  by  daylight ;  and 
of  the  visit  and  some  more  tangible  memorabilia  of  Mr. 
Clay,  another  letter  may  perhaps  discourse  to  you, 
For  the  present,  Adieu. 


LETTER    No,  2§, 


ADVENTURES    IN   A   CROSS-ROAD    IN    KENTUCKY ACCOUNT 

OF  THE  "DEVIL'S  PULPIT" — EARLY  START — PHILOSOPHY 

OF  DRIVING REASONS  WHY  KENTUCKIANS  CANNOT  DRIVE, 

THOUGH  GREAT  HORSEMEN MODE  OF  FEMALE  CONVEY 
ANCE  WHEN  GOING  OUT  TO  TEA DR.  GRAHAM'S  ACCOM 
PLISHMENTS  BUT  HIS  MODE  OF  USING  THE  REINS STUMPS 

AND  EARTHQUAKES SINGULAR  LOCALITY  OF  KING'S  MILLS 

THE    BRIDGE    OVER    DICK's  RIVER  AND  ITS  INDIFFERENT 

TOLL    KEEPER — ATTENTION    TO  TROUT  AND  TO  STRANGERS 

THE    BLACKSMITH MAJESTY    OF    PRIMITIVE  WOODS  AND 

THE  LACK  OF  THIS  CHARM  ON  THE  HUDSON LOG  SCHOOL- 
HOUSE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS,  ETC.,  ETC. 

Harrodsburg  Springs,  Kentucky,  June,  1852. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

I  have  had  a  day's  experience  of  cross-road  know 
ledge  in  the  heart  of  Kentucky,  and  perhaps,  though 
less  imposing  than  turnpike  knowledge,  it  may  interest 
you  to  read  of  its  humbler  and  more  homely  befallings. 
As  we  may  have,  here  and  there,  a  subscriber  to  the 


246         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS. 

Home  Journal,  who  wants  but  little  to  wonder  at,  at 
a  time,  an  uneventful  letter  may  be  excusable,  even  to 
publish. 

My  hospitable  host,  Dr.  Graham,  had  been  the  his 
torian*  of  a  curiosity  which  is  almost  inaccessible,  on 

*  Collins,  in  his  "  History  of  Kentucky,"  thus  gives  it : 

«'  "We  are  indebted  for  the  following  account  of  a  visit  to  this 
remarkable  curiosity,  to  the  pen  of  a  well-known  citizen  of  Ken 
tucky,  Dr.  Graham,  the  enterprising  and  intelligent  proprietor 
of  the  Harrodsburg  Springs.  He  says : — Alter  much  vexation 
and  annoyance  occasioned  by  the  difficulties  of  the  road,  we  ar 
rived  near  the  object  of  our  visit,  and  quitting  our  horses,  pro 
ceeded  on  foot.  Upon  approaching  the  break  of  the  precipice, 
under  the  direction  of  our  guide,  we  suddenly  found  ourselves 
standing  on  the  verge  of  a  yawning  chasm,  and  immediately  be 
yond,  bottomed  in  darkness,  the  Devil's  Puipit  was  seen  rearing 
its  black,  gigantic  form,  from  amid  the  obscurity  of  the  deep  and 
silent  valley.  The  background  to  this  gloomy  object  presented  a 
scene  of  unrelieved  desolation.  Cliff  rose  on  cliff,  and  craig  sur 
mounted  craig,  sweeping  off  on  either  hand  in  huge  semicircles, 
until  the  wearied  eye  became  unable  to  follow  the  countless  and 
billowy-like  mazes  of  that  strange  and  awful  scene.  The  prevail 
ing  character  of  the  whole  was  that  of  savage  grandeur  and 
gloom.  A  profound  silence  broods  over  the  place,  broken  only 
by  the  muffled  rushing  of  the  stream  far  down  in  its  narrow  pas 
sage,  cleaving  its  way  to  its  home  in  the  ocean  Descending 
by  a  zigzag  path  to  the  shore  of  the  river,  while  our  companions 
were  making  preparations  to  cross,  I  strayed  through  the  valley. 
The  air  was  cool,  refreshing  and  fragrant,  and  vocal  with  the 
voices  of  many  birds.  The  bending  trees,  the  winding  stream 
with  its  clear  and  crystal  waters,  the  flowering  shrubs,  and  clus 
tering  vines  walled  in  by  these  adamantine  ramparts  —  which  seem 
to  tower  to  the  skies — make  this  a  place  of  rare  and  picturesque 
beauty.  The  dew-drops  still  hung  glittering  on  the  leaves,  the 
whispering  winds  played  with  soft  music  through  the  rustling 
foliage,  and  the  sunbeams,  struggling  through  the  overhanging 
forest,  kissed  the  opening  flowers,  and  all  combined  made  up  a 
scene  of  rural  loveliness  and  romance,  which  excited  emotions  of 
unmingled  delight.  The  boat  having  arrived,  the  river  was  cross 
ed  without  difficulty,  and  we  commenced  the  ascent,  and  after 
measuring  up  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  arrived  at  the  base 
of  the  '  Pulpit.'  Fifty  paces  from  this  point,  and  parallel  with  it, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          247 

the  Kentucky  Kiver ;  and  a  trip  to  this — twenty  miles 
across  the  country  from  Harrodsburg — was  the  excur 
sion  of  the  day.  With  an  active  little  horse  in  a  buggy- 


in  the  solid  ledge  of  the  cliff,  is  a  cave  of  considerable  extent.  At 
its  termination,  there  passes  out,  like  the  neck  of  a  funnel,  an. 
opening,  not  larger  than  a  hogshead.  Upon  pitching  rocks  into 
this  cave,  a  rumbling  was  heard  at  an  immense  distance  below 
the  earth.  Some  are  of  opinion  that  this  cave  contains  a  bottom 
less  pit.  We  now  ascended  the  cliffs  some  fifty  feet  further, 
clambering  up  through  a  fissure  in  the  rocks,  having  the  Pulpit 
on  our  right,  and  a  range  of  cliffs  on  our  left  To  look  up  here 
makes  the  head  dizzy.  Huge  and  dark  masses  roll  up  above  you, 
upon  whose  giddy  heights  vast  crags  jut  out  and  overhang  the 
valley,  threatening  destruction  to  all  below.  The  floating  clouds 
give  these  crags  the  appearance  of  swimming  in  mid  air.  The  as 
cent  up  these  rocks,  though  somewhat  laborious,  is  perfectly  safe, 
being  protected  by  natural  walls  on  either  side,  and  forming  a  per 
fect  stairway  with  steps  from  eight  to  ten  feet  thick.  At  the  head 
of  this  passage  there  is  a  hole  through  the  river  side  of  the  wall, 
large  enough  to  admit  the  body,  and  through  which  one  may 
crawl,  and  look  down  on  the  rushing  stream  below  At  the  foot 
of  the  stairway  stands  the  Pulpit,  rising  from  the  very  brink  of 
the  main  ledge,  at  more  than  two  hundred  feet  of  an  elevation 
above  the  river,  but  separated  from  the  portion  which  towers  up 
to  the  extreme  heights.  The  space  is  twelve  feet  at  bottom,  and 
as  the  cliff  retreats  slightly  at  this  point,  the  gap  is  perhaps  thirty 
feet  at  the  top.  The  best  idea  that  can  be  formed  of  this  rock  is 
to  suppose  it  to  be  a  single  column  standing  in  front  of  the  con 
tinuous  wall  of  some  vast  building  or  ruin,  the  shaft  standing,  as 
colonnades,  are  frequently  built,  upon  an  elevated  platform.  From 
the  platform  to  the  capital  of  the  shaft,  is  not  less  than  one  hun 
dred  feet,  making  the  whole  elevation  of  the  '  Devil's  Pulpit' 
three  hundred  feet.  It  is  called,  by  some,  the  inverted  candle 
stick,  to  which  it  has  a  striking  resemblance.  There  are  two 
swells,  which  form  the  base  moulding,  and  occupy  forty  feet  of 
the  shaft.  It  then  narrows  to  an  oblong  of  about  three  feet  by 
six,  at  which  point  there  are  fifteen  distinct  projections.  This 
narrow  neck  continues  with  some  irregularity  for  eight  or  ten  feet, 
winding  off  at  an  angle  of  more  than  one  degree  from  the  line 
of  gravity.  Then  commences  the  increased  swell,  and  craggy  off 
sets,  first  overhanging  one  side,  and  then  the  other,  till  they  reach 
the  top  or  cap  rock,  which  is  not  so  wide  as  the  one  below  it,  but 
is  still  fifteen  feet  across." 


248          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

waggon,  we  were  on  the  road  at  the  hour  which  the  birds 
make  so  industrious  and  musical,  our  breakfast  in  its 
place,  and  our  dinner  waiting  its  turn  in  a  basket.  The 
Doctor  was  the  driver. 

And  let  me  record  here,  by  the  way,  a  simple  bit  of 
observation  which  had  never  occurred  to  me  before — 
that  driving  is  an  art  not  learned  in  one  generation. 
If  roads  were  introduced  into  the  Deserts  of  the  East, 
it  would  be  the  Arab's  grand-child,  not  the  Arab  nor 
the  Arab's  son,  who  might  learn  to  be  "  a  whip."  The 
sequence  of  wheels  after  hoofs,  and  the  relative  respon-. 
eibiiities  of  the  ears  that  precede  and  the  axle-tree  that 
follows  confidingly  after  are  secrets  no  more  learned  in 
a  day  than  the  scent  of  game  by  a  race  of  quadrupeds. 
The  Kentuckian,  therefore,  who  might  compete  with 
the  Arab  sheikh,  as  the  world's  best  horseman,  is  no 
driver.  Roads  are  entirely  too  new  to  him.  Even  at 
this  day,  the  commonest  sight  on  turnpikes  where  wheels 
might  be  used,  is  a  woman  on  horse-back  writh  three  chil 
dren — the  baby  in  her  lap  and  two  urchins  a-straddle 
behind.  To  go  five  or  six  miles  to  take  tea,  most  Ken 
tucky  mothers,  at  the  present  moment,  would  prefer  the 
saddle.  By  birth  and  education,  it  is  consequently  a 
horseback  State — the  animal  at  the  end  of  a  long  pair  of 
reins  much  too  far  off  for  Kentucky  instincts  of  control 
and  comfort. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          249 

Entering  upon  an  Archipelago  of  stumps  and  rocks 
after  the  first  mile,  I  very  soon  received  the  impression 
which  I  have  just  recorded.  My  friend  the  Doctor — 
famous  when  surgeon  in  the  army  for  whipping  off  a  leg 
with  dexterity,  and  famous  since,  as  the  best  rifle-shot 
in  his  neighbourhood^  had  no  eye  for  the  liabilities  of 
wheels.  He  evidently  thought  a  stump  done  with  if  the 
horse  went  clear  of  it.  It  was  a  wonder,  to  him,  how 
the  buggy  came  to  a  stand-still  upoa  an  obstacle  he  had 
thought  comfortably  left  behind.  An  eloquent  man 
and  warm  on  history  and  scenery  as  he  rode  along,  his 
arms  were  busy  with  gestures,  and  the  reins  loose 
about  the  horse's  heels,  no  matter  what  the  apparent 
impassibilities  or  impending  antagonisms  of  the  road. 
The  books  speak  of  earthquakes  as  formerly  so  frequent 
in  Kentucky  that  every  family  had  a  key  suspended 
over  the  Bible  on  the  mantel-piece,  to  know  by  its  vibra 
tions  when  to  fall  on  their  knees  and  pray.  The  Doc 
tor's  driving  seemed  historically  accordant  with  this — a 
series  of  earthquakes,  every  shock  bringing  us  to  our 
knees — though,  as  there  will  be  progress  with  even  the 
worst  of  iteration,  we  arrived  thus  at  the  precipice  over 
hanging  "  Dick's  River."  And  here  was  scenery  worth 
some  rough  using  to  get  a  sight  of. 

Those  who  "  go  to  mill"  at  "  King's  mills"  must  seem 
to  have  their  grain  ground  on  the  earth's  axle,  for  the 

bed  of  Dick's  River,  which  turns  the  wheel,  is  three 
11* 


250          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

hundred  feet  down  between  almost  perpendicular  rocks 
no  complete  daylight  known  there  I  should  suppose,  ex 
cept  at  high  noon.  We  should  properly  have  been  let 
down  by  a  string,  but  the  breeching  proved  faithful,  and 
we  reached  the  bank  of  the  river,  horse  first,  without 
being  precipitated  over  the  head  of  the  animal  most 
of  the  way  on  end.  At  the  small  bridge  spanning  the 
stream  sat  a  man  in  a  picturesque  red  waistcoat,  fishing ; 
and  I  was  struck  with  the  fact,  that,  though  strangers 
must  be  comparatively  rare  in  so  remote  a  spot,  he  never 
took  his  eyes  from  his  line  to  look  at  us.  We  crossed 
the  bridge,  and,  as  we  went  crashing  over  the  loose  rocks 
on  the  other  side,  he  called  out,  "  They  take  toll  here !" 
The  Doctor  pulled  up.  "  Bill  aint  home,"  he  continued, 
still  keeping  his  eyes  dreamily  on  the  water,  and  speak 
ing  in  a  tone  as  low  and  unexcited  as  the  murmur  of  the 
stream,  "  but  I'll  take  it  for  him."  "  How  much  ?" 
"  Why,  they  ask  a  quarter,  but  I'll  make  twenty  cents 
answer  !"  And  with  this  kindly  dialogue  my  friend 
walked  to  the  contemplative  angler  and  dropped  the 
money  into  his  hand  without  disturbing  the  possibility 
of  a  co  incident  nibble.  To  one  surfeited  with  the 
"  digito  monstrari"  this  might  be  a  pleasant  variety  of 
human  notice,  though  the  chances  were  that  the  travel 
ler,  thus  made  second  to  a  trout,  might  think  himself 
mdifferently  treated. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          25 1 

The  village,  a  few  rods  up  the  stream,  consisted  of 
the  mill  and  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  here  we  stopped 
to  inquire  our  way  to  The  Devil's  Pulpit.  "  I've  beam 
a  heap  of  talk  about  that  place,"  said  the  brawny  Vulcan, 

but  I  never  was  thar.  Do  you  know,  Jem  ?"  he  asked 
turning  to  the  man  wielding  the  other  hammer.  But 
Jem  had  also  lived  close  to  the  remarkable  spot  without 
going  to  it,  and  we  took  the  road  slanting  up  the  oppo 
site  precipice  of  the  ravine,  trusting  to  the  Doctor's  rem 
iniscences  of  a  way  he  had  once  travelled  before. 

The  trees,  in  a  country  that  has  never  been  "  cut  over," 
are  wonderfully  majestic,  and  even  the  dislocating 
roughness  of  the  road  did  not  prevent  my  continual 
amazement  at  the  beauty  of  single  trees,  standing  on 
the  green  floor  of  the  forest,  each  one  a  monarch  in  mere 
glory  of  presence.  On  the  Hudson,  so  perpetually  fell 
ed  and  burned  over,  you  never  realize  the  splendour  of 
the  primitive  wilderness ;  and,  indeed,  it  takes  all  the 
majesty  of  the  Highlands  and  Catskills,  and  all  the  arti 
ficial  wonders  of  steamers  and  rail-trains,  to  compensate 
for  this  comparative  nakedness  of  your  beautiful 
river. 

It  was  in  the  midst  of  one  of  these  lofty  "  mille  col- 
onnes"  of  nature  that  we  came  to  a  log  school-house 
built  upon  a  knoll,  and  here  the  Doctor  pulled  up  for 
another  inquiry.  The  schoolmaster  was  likely  to  know 
where  the  Devil's  Pulpit  might  stand,  and  I  was  inter 


252  HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE   TROPICS. 

ested  to  see  the  schoolmaster  and  his  urchins.  For  my 
visit  here,  however,  and  the  remainder  of  my  excursion, 
I  shall  require  the  space  of  another  letter  I  believe,  and 
for  the  present,  adieu.  Yours,  etc. 


LETTER    No.    26. 


CROSS-ROAD    EXPERIENCES"  IN  KENTUCKY THE  LOG    SCHOOL- 

HOUSE APPARENT    USELESSNESS    OF    WORLD    WISDOM,    SO 

FAR    AWAY  FROM    THE  WORLD PICTURESQUE  INTERIOR 

OLDER    AND  YOUNGER    GIRLS  AND  THEIR  LOOKS    AND  ATTI 
TUDES PICTURE  OF  A  LOVELY  CHILD EDEN  STILL  AROUND 

US  IF  WE    KNEW  ITS    TIMES    AND  PLACES THE     BOYS     AND 

THEIR  EMPLOYMENTS STRUCTURE    OF    A   SCHOOL-HOUSE 

THE    MASTER    AND    HIS     DIGNITY THE    BIGGEST  BOY    AND 

HIS     POLITENESS    AND    MANLY    CIVILITIES WAY     TO     THE 

DEVIL'S    PULPIT A     BACKWOODSMAN      AND      HIS     FARM 

CHARACTER    OF    NEW    CLEARINGS AMERICAN     FACILITIES 


Harrodsburg  Springs,  Kentucky,  June. 
DEAR  MORRIS  : — 

The  log  school-house  (at  the  door  of  which  I  left  you 
in  my  last  letter)  was  so  remote  from  the  world,  there 
in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  that  the  laborious  acquir 
ing  of  skill  in  such  encounters  as  ciphering  and  oratory 
seemed  like  the  harnessing  of  knights  for  a  crusade  far 
away.  Considering  the  road  we  had  come  over,  tha 


254          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

arrival  of  any  of  these  barefooted  urchins  at  the  world's 
battle-fields  of  humbug  and  cheating  seemed  too  impro 
bable  for  this  trouble  of  preparing  the  weapons.  To 
recognize  the  beauty  of  a  tree,  and  listen  to  the  "  still 
small  voices"  of  conscience  and  indigestion,  would  have 
seemed  to  me  (had  T  been  consulted  at  the  door  and  had 
schools  been  a  new  invention)  the  learning  for  which 
the  necessity  was  more  immediate — though  in  thickly 
.  settled  neighbourhoods,  of  course  soft  sodder  and  cal 
culation  obviously  come  first. 

I  wanted  Darley  at  my  elbow  to  sketch  the  interior 
of  this  school.  Unconsciousness  makes  beautiful  pic 
tures — the  rudeness  and  grotesqueness  of  real-life  group 
ings  rather  adding  than  otherwise  to  their  effect.  While 
three  or  four  of  the  larger  girls,  just  entering  upon  awk 
ward-hood,  had  their  heads  on  the  benches  and  sat  with 
their  chins  on  their  kness,  feeling  of  their  toes,  there 
were  two  or  three  of  the  younger  ones  with  grace  and 
beauty  enough  to  equip  angels — the  heaven  they  wero 
leaving  behind  them*  still  radiant  in  their  delicious  lit- 

*  Almost  as  often  as  I  see  young  children,  I  quote  Woods- 
worth's  beautiful  imagining  : — 

"  Our  birth  is  but  a  sleep  and  a  forgetting  ; 
The  soul  that  rises  with  us,  our  life's  star, 
Hath  had  elsewhere  its  setting, 

And  cometh  from  afar. 
Not  in  entire  forgetfulness, 
And  not  in  utter  nakedness, 
But  trailing  clouds  of  glory  do  we  come 
Prom  God  who  is  our  home." 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      THE      TROPICS.          255 

tie  faces.  One  I  could  have  taken  to  my  bosom  with  a 
hug,  and  stolen — (to  adopt  and  add  to  the  "  Orion's 
belt  of  three"  who  form  my  constellation  at  home) — a 
little  fairy,  laying  flat  on  her  stomach  upon  the  top  of  a 
sloping  desk,  and  with  her  heels  in  the  air  and  her  cheek 
on  her  hand,  too  busy  with  her  spelling-book  to  notice 
our  coming  in.  Her  heaps  of  curls  were  masses  of 
brown  tanned  lighter  at  the  curves,  and  the  russet  red 
of  her  cheek  was  beaming  with  tranquil  health — eyes 
large  and  steady,  hands  plump  and  dirty,  shoulders 
and  back  bare,  and  frock  ragged.  There  she  lay,  learn 
ing  to  spell  ;  and  meantime  more  beautiful  than  she 
will  be  when  the  lesson  is  learned  ;  and  better  worth 
admiring  and  loving  than  when  her  heels  are 
kept  down  and  her  rags  changed  to  the  petticoats  of 
womanhood.  How  out  of  time  and  place  come  the 
things  we  most  want,  in  this  world !  I  am  inclined  to 
think  Eden  is  still  around  us.  Its  loveliness  and  happi 
ness  are  only  mislaid,  mis-labelled  and  unrecognised. 

Of  the  troop  on  the  board  bench  provided  for  tho 
jacket-and-trouser  department  of  the  school,  one-half 
at  least  were  picking  the  clay  from  between  the  logs, 
and  so  getting  a  look  at  the  open  air  outside  ;  and  they 
had  so  far  succeeded  that  the  four  walls  let  in  the  light 
like  a  honey-comb.  There  was  one  window — a  hole 
sawed  through  one  of  the  logs,  that  is  to  say — but  the 
main  supply  of  daylight  that  had  been  calculated  for, 


256          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

evidently  came  through  the  door.  Near  this  stood  the 
tall,  erect,  majestic  form  of  the  school-master — certainly 
the  largest  supply  of  dignity  for  the  money  (twenty -five 
dollars  a  month)  which  I  had  yet  seen  in  my  travels. 
How  so  handsome  a  man  eould  see  himself  in  the  glass 
once  a  day,  and  keep  that  school  for  the  pay,  I  presume 
Providence  knew  and  provided — but  he  seemed  to  me 
to  have  Nature's  ticket  on  his  brow  for  the  government 
of  older  minds. 

To  our  inquiries  for  the  way  to  the  Devil's  Pulpit, 
the  schoolmaster  shook  his  head — but  up  spoke  the 
biggest  boy  in  the  school.  He  knew  where  it  was — 
some  people  called  it  "  Candlestick  Eock" — it  was  two 
miles  off,  and  he  would  go  and  show  us  the  way.  And, 
of  the  prompt,  manly,  unservile  and  yet  most  genial 
kindness  and  cheerfulness,  with  which  this  young  Ken- 
tuckian  of  sixteen  gave  us  four  hours  of  his  time  and 
attention,  I  should  like  to  have  a  "  seed  for  planting." 
Our  way  was  through  a  wilderness  partially  cleared, 
and  every  quarter  of  a  mile  brought  us  to  a  gate,  or  to 
heaps  of  just-felled  timber,  to  be  navigated  with  great 
care  by  horse  and  waggon ;  and  with  this  bright  lad 
for  guide  and  gate-opener,  we  were  "  only  passengers." 
He  took  us  to  the  Devil's  Pulpit,  and  brought  us  back, 
walking  before  or  at  the  side  of  our  waggon,  and  con 
versing  as  fearlessly  and  unsuspiciously  as  a  nobleman 
taking  his  guests  over  his  park.  I  liked  the  grace  and 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          257 

self-confidence  of  the  boy.  The  highest  cultivation  of 
courts  and  palaces  would  only  take  such  manners  round 
a  circle,  and  bring  them  back  to  where  they  are. 

Near  the  point  of  our  journey  we  came  to  a  settler's 
farm-house,  and  here  we  unhitched  our  active  little  lo 
comotive,  and  left  him  to  "  wood  up  "  for  the  passage 
back.  Our  own  basket  of  provender  was  here  remem 
bered  also,  though,  as  we  had  arrived  just  at  the  dinner 
hour,  the  hospitable  backwoods-man  pressed  us  hard  to 
go  in  and  dine.  "We  rather  gave  offence,  I  thought,  by 
insisting  on  sitting  down  to  our  own  sandwiches  and 
liquids  in  the  outer  room — the  ladies,  whom  we  should 
have  seen  at  table,  not  making  their  appearance  at  all — 
but  our  host  was  all  kindness,  and  after  looking  to  our 
horse,  he  offered  to  accompany  us  in  our  visit  to  the 
point  of  curiosity. 

This  Kentucky  farm  looked  like  a  scene  of  vigorous 
industry,  though  the  first  beginnings  of  civilization  are 
very  unsightly.  Woods  are  very  beautiful,  but  half  a 
wood  cut  down  is  like  a  half  a  house  torn  away — leav 
ing  a  front  most  ruinously  unarchitectural.  Then  trees 
prostrate  in  all  directions,  fences  of  logs  and  branches, 
stumps  just  high  enough  to  look  ugliest,  and  nature's 
rude  rocks  exposed  and  dug  around  by  the  plough,  are 
dismal  features  to  a  landscape.  Our  friend  was  very 
communicative  on  the  way,  and  gave  us,  in  his  own  his 
tory,  a  curious  type  of  the  American  facility  for  "  get- 


258          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

ting  on."  When  he  first  came  into  that  part  of  the 
country,  he  had  nothing  but  the  protested  five  hundred 
dollar  note  of  a  broken  merchant.  On  the  possibility 
of  its  being  eventually  paid,  he  managed  to  buy  four 
hundred  acres  of  land,  of  which  he  now  had  one  hun 
dred  and  thirty  under  cultivation.  It  was  a  proviso  in 
the  purchase  that  he  should  give  the  land  back  after  a 
certain  number  of  years,  if  it  was  not  paid  for — his  la 
bour  on  the  soil,  of  course,  being  rent  as  well  as  securi 
ty  to  the  original  owner.  He  had  married,  owned  three 
negroes,  and,  by  the  cattle  in  all  direction,  his  farm  was 
numerously  stocked.  He  was  a  broad  backed,  cheer 
ful,  happy-looking  man.  Those  who  have  seen  the 
working  population  of  Europe,  know  what  there  is  to 
emigrate  for,  in  such  a  contrast  to  their  condition  as  is 
presented  in  this  picture. 

By  no  paths,  but  over  chasms  and  rocks  so  wild,  and 
so  seldom  visited  that  the  hawks  and  eagles  flew 
around  and  over  without  fear  of  us,  we  arrived  at  the 
point,  in  the  abysm  called  Kentucky  River,  where 
stands  "  Candlestick  Rock."  It  is  a  column  which  the 
action  of  water  has  separated  from  the  precipice,  and 
left  toppling  and  alone — in  shape  and  form  like  a  pile 
of  muffins,  but  two  hundred  feet  high.  Dr.  Graham's 
description  (which  I  sent  you  with  my  last  letter)  gives 
you  the  detailed  dimensions  of  it.  It  is  a  wonder,  yet 
it  is  but  part  of  a  wilderness  of  wonders.  This 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          259 

strangely  deep-down  river  is  here  at  its  finest  point  of 
precipitous  walling-in.  A  projected  railroad  is  to  cross 
it,  at  this  place,  I  understand,  and  when  that  is  com 
pleted,  they  will  need  a  station-house  on  the  river  bank, 
for  the  traveller  will  not  go  by,  without  stopping  to 
climb  about  and  admire.  It  is  a  most  beautiful  and 
picturesque  State,  Kentucky  !  Give  us  but  facilities  for 
getting  into  it,  and  its  scenery  will  be  a  constant  at 
traction  for  visitors  from  the  North. 

I  must  abruptly  close  my  letter,  my  dear  Morris 


LETTER  No.  27. 


H  A  Y  T  I,  &o. 

THE  mountain  tops  of  Hayti  visible  off  the  starboard 
bow — their  bases  and  the  main  stretch  of  the  isle  of 
Negro-cratic  dominion  hidden  by  the  cloud-mist  of 
morning.  The  air  off  the  shore  is  wonderfully  fragrant 
— every  white  nose  that  comes  up  from  the  breakfast- 
table  acknowledges  it  with  a  sniff  of  pleasure.  Sweet, 
sweet  weather !  Smooth  and  sunny  sea  !  But  languor 
and  loving  good-for-nothingness  taking  the  edge  off  from 
the  sense  of  novelty,  and  making  all  seem  like  a 
dream. 

I  find  that  the  surgeons  of  these  steamers,  and  two 
or  three  other  medical  men  with  whom  I  have  con 
versed,  think  it  a  mistake  for  delicate  pulmonary  pa 
tients  to  come  to  the  West  Indies  for  health.  The 
greater  softness  of  the  air  is  counterbalanced,  they  say, 
by  the  greater  debilitation ;  but,  more  than  that,  the 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO      T  H  E      TROPICS.          261 

sufferers  from  this  complaint  run  great  risk,  from  the 
inconveniences  of  tropical  life,  from  exposure,  and  the 
complete  lack  of  home  comforts.  Window-glass  is  un 
known  south  of  Bermuda,  and  delicate  lungs  find  the 
night's  last  hours,  even  in  the  torrid  zone,  chilly  and 
irritating.  It  is  not-  the  clime  for  prudence,  either.  In 
habitants  and  strangers  alike  indulge  appetite  and  for 
get  caution.  In  the  teeming  and  prodigal  life  around 
the  invalid,  his  individual  poverty  of  health  is  forgotten. 
The  air  is  an  oblivious  opiate,  soothing,  but  full  of 
danger. 

My  own  experience  corroborates  this.  Enjoying  the 
luxuriousness  of  the  clime  in  every  nerve  and  pore,  I 
have  still  felt  that  there  was  in  it  neither  strength  nor 
medicine.  The  consciousness  of  revivification  that  one 
feels  in  a  bright  day  at  the  North,  or  in  a  breath  of 
mountain  air — nature's  acknowledgment  of  aid — is  not 
a  part  of  the  enjoyment.  It  seems  to  me  only  a  climate 
in  which  death  would  be  easier.  The  nerves  are  quiet 
ed  out  of  reach."  Arid  it  is  wonderful  what  a  different 
event  death  seems,  with  that  part  of  the  system  sleep 
ing  or  waking  ! 

That  many  people  go  to  the  "West  Indies  for  their 
health,  and  find  it  there,  is  very  certain.  But  it  is  less 
to  be  attributed  to  softer  air  than  to  entire  change  of 
scene  and  associations.  There  are  more  cases  than 
we  imagine  of  persons  supposed  to  be  <:  in  a  decline,'' 


262          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

where  organic  disease  is  but  half  the  trouble.  They 
require  to  be  removed  from  what  shall  remind  them 
that  they  are  ill — to  be  got  away  from  sympathy,  away 
from  doctors,  away  from  contrast  of  their  invalid  habits 
with  habits  when  they  were  stronger.  Their  attention 
to  the  subject  of  their  health  has  become  morbid — itself 
the  disease  which  most  requires  medicine.  To  such, 
the  entire  novelty  of  climate  and  vegetation,  and  the 
close  neighbourhood  of  so  many  varieties  of  govern 
ment  and  manners — Danish,  Spanish,  French,  English, 
and  African  islands,  all  within  a  summer  day  succes 
sion  of  visits — amount  to  a  delightful  and  salutary  self- 
forgetfulness.  They  are  amused  out  of  themselves,  and 
return  to  find  that  the  body  has  taken  advantage  of  the 
mind's  absence  to  put  the  nerves  to  their  proper  work. 
Health  has  come,  they  scarce  know  how.  Many  a 
physician,  probably,  would  recommend  this  "  alterative 
course"  of  three  months'  travel  in  the  West  Indies,  if 
the  ninety  pills  at  five  dollars  a-piece  (the  average  day's 
expense  in  these  latitudes)  were  not  too  expensive. 

The  sword  of  Her  Majesty's  veteran  Lieutenant  was 
laid  on  the  cabin  table,  ready  to  be  girded  on,  to  carry 
the  mail  ashore  at  Jacmel — (this  officer  doing  it  in  uni 
form,  and  having  his  own  boat,  and  being  as  separate 
from  the  ship's  company  as  a  diplomatic  passenger)  and 
great  interest  was  being  made  to  accompany  him. 
Every  body  wanted  to  see  the  negroes  at  home.  Ho\v 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          263 

their  exodus  had  operated  on  their  condition  and  man 
ners,  and  whether  they  looked  different,  in  this  their 
Canaan,  from  what  they  used  to  look  in  the  Egypt  of 
New  York,  was  a  matter  of  some  curiosity  to  me.  We 
might  be  the  greater  part  of  a  forenoon,  disembarking 
freight,  etc.  etc.,  and  a  ramble  in  the  most  important 
town  of  the  isle  under  the  "  coloured"  administration  of 
the  Emperor  Faustin  the  First,  was  a  novelty  worth 
shouldering  for  at  a  gangway.  I  put  on  my  go-ashore 
clothes,  and,  mingling  with  the  cro\vd  of  passengers  on 
the  freight-deck,  watched  with  great  interest  the  grad 
ual  nearing  of  the  shore. 

This  going  steadily  westward,  by  the  way,  and  ar 
riving  at  island  after  island  regularly  at  the  hour  ex 
pected,  gives  one  a  kind  of  almanac  feeling — a  painful 
sense  of  matter  of  course  ness — at  which  the  spirit  rebels, 
under  the  wild  and  careless  influence  of  the  Tropics. 
As  we  approached  Jacmel  and  saw  its  stately  moun 
tains  more  and  more  distinctly,  the  scenery  was  so 
lovely — smooth  sea,  delicious  air,  soft  sunshine  and  all 
— that  I  quite  longed  to  be  embarked  upon  some  craft 
less  prosaically  "  due1''  at  the  port  we  were  nearing — un 
der  some  unknown  sail,  with  a  capricious  wind — a  pas 
senger  with  a  Columbus,  in  short,  rather  than  in  a 
steamer  from  the  docks  of  London.  The  approach  to 
Hayti  had  been  very  beautiful  from  the  distance.  It 
was  a  soft  April  morning,  and  the  clouds,  which  had 


264          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

lain  low,  and  shown  only  the  mountain-tops,  gradually 
lifted  as  we  neared  the  harbour  of  Jacmel,  and  disclosed 
the  town  as  if  by  the  lifting  of  a  stage  curtain.  With 
Irving's  honey-dropping  description  of  Columbus's  first 
approach  to  this  island,  nearly  four  centuries  ago, 
clinging  to  one's  memory,  it  was  droll  to  see  the  freight 
that  was  going  ashore — (millinery  from  Paris  taking  up 
more  room  than  anything  else) — and  it  was  difficult  to 
anticipate,  with  the  romantic  sweetness  of  the  air,  and  the 
beauty  of  the  lofty  mountain-sides  around  us,  anything 
but  the  scenes  of  the  savage  Paradise  as  first  discov 
ered.*  To  facts,  however  : — 

*  It  may  serve  as  an  effective  relievo  to  my  picture  of  Hayti, 
now  passing  from  the  white  man  to  the  black,  to  quote  a  passage 
or  two  descriptive  of  it  when  passing  from  the  red  man  to  the 
white  Irving  says  : — 

"  In  the  transparent  atmosphere  of  the  Tropics  objects  are  de 
scried  at  a  great  distance,  and  the  purity  of  the  air  and  serenity  of 
the  deep  blue  sky,  give  a  magical  charm  to  scenery.  Under  these 
advantages,  the  beautiful  island  of  Hayti  revealed  itself  to  the  eye 
as  they  approached.  Its  mountains  were  higher  and  more  rocky 
than  those  of  the  other  islands,  but  the  rocks  rose  from  among 
rich  forests.  The  mountains  swept  down  into  luxuriant  plains 
and  green  savannas,  while  the  appearance  of  cultivated  fields,  with 
the  numerous  fires  at  night  and  the  columns  of  smoke  which  rose 
in  various  parts  by  day,  all  showed  it  to  be  populous.  It  rose  be 
fore  them  in  all  the  splendour  of  tropical  vegetation,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  islands  in  the  world,  and  doomed  to  be  one  of  the 
most  unfortunate. 

"  On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  December  (1492,)  Columbus  en 
tered  a  harbour  at  the  Western  end  of  the  island  *  *  After 
various  ineffectual  attempts  to  obtain  a  communication  with  the 
natives,  three  sailors  succeeded  in  overtaking  a  young  and  hand 
some  female,  who  was  flying  from  them,  and  brought  their  wild 
beauty  in  triumph  to  the  ships.  She  was  treated  with  the  great 
est  kindness,  and  dismissed  finely  clothed,  and  loaded  with  pre 
sents  of  beads,  hawk's  bells  and  other  baubles  Confident  of  the 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          265 

I  had  not  been  sufficiently  on  the  alert  to  secure  a 
passage  in  the  barge  of  the  epauletted  mail  officer,  and 

favourable  impression  her  account  of  her  treatment  and  the  sight 
of  her  presents  must  produce,  Columbus  on  tne  following  day, 
sent  nine  men,  well  armed,  to  seek  her  village,  accompanied  by  a 
native  of  Cuba  as  an  interpreter.  The  village  was  situated  iu  a 
fine  vallev,  on  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  river,  and  contained 
about  a  thousand  houses.  The  natives  fled  at  first,  but  being  re 
assured  by  the  interpreter,  they  came  back,  to  the  number  of 
two  thousand,  and  approached  the  Spaniards  with  awe  and  trem 
bling,  often  pausing  and  putting  their  hands  upon  their  heads 
in  token  of  reverence  and  submission. 

"  The  female,  also,  who  had  been  entertained  on  board  of 
the  ships,  came  borne  in  triumph  on  the  shoulders  of  some 
of  her  countrymen,  followed  by  a  multitude,  and  preceded  by 
her  husband,  who  was  full  of  gratitude  f*or  the  kindness  with 
which  she  had  been  treated.  Having  recovered  from  their  fears, 
the  natives  conducted  the  Spaniards  to  their  houses,  and  set 
before  them  cassava  bread,  fish,  roots,  and  fruits  of  various 
kinds ;  offering  them  freely  whatever  they  possessed -for  a  frank 
hospitality  reigned  throughout  the  island,  where,  as  yet,  the 
passion  of  avarice  was  unknown.  *  * 

"The  natives  believed  that  their  island  of  Hayti  was  the 
earliest  part  of  creation,  and  that  the  sun  and  moon  issued  out 
of  one  of  its  caverns  to  give  light  to  the  universe  They  as 
cribe  to  another  cavern  the  origin  of  the  human  race,  believing 
that  the  large  men  issued  forth  from  a  great  aperture,  but  the 
little  men  from  a  little  cranny.  For  a  long  time  they  dared 
venture  from  the  cavern  only  in  the  night,  for  the  sight  of 
the  sun  was  fatal  to  them,  producing  wonderful  transformations. 
One  of  their  number,  having  lingered  on  a  river's  bank,  where 
he  was  fishing,  until  the  sun  had  risen,  was  turned  into  a 
bird  of  melodious  note,  which,  yearly,  about  the  time  of  his 
transformation,  is  heard  singing  plaintively  in  the  night,  be 
wailing  his  misfortune 

"When  the  human  race  at  length  emerged  from  the  cave, 
they,  for  some  time,  wandered  about  disconsolately  without 
females,  until,  coming  near  a  small  lake,  they  beheld  certain 
animals  among  the  branches  of  the  trees,  which  proved  to  be 
women.  On  attempting  to  catch  them,  however,  they  were 
found  to  be  as  slippery  as  eels ;  so  that  it'  was  impossible  to 
hold  them  until  they  employed  certain  men.  whose  hands  had 
been  rendered  rough  by  a  kind  of  leprosy.  These  succeeded 
in  securing  four  of  them  ;  and  from  these  slippery  females  the 
world  was  peopled."  *  *  * 
12 


266          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

my  only  chance  of  getting  ashore  was  to  jump  in  among 
the  bales  of  freight  in  the  larger  boat,  and  be  delivered 
at  the  custom  house  after  a  slower  pull.  A  fort  of  mud 
on  the  right,  and  a  grove  of  cocoa-trees  on  the  left, 
were  the  two  embracing  arms  which  received  us  as  we 
approached,  and  a  single  wharf  of  rough  planks  support 
ed  on  posts  which  had  rotted  and  let  it  partly  drop  into 
the  water,  seemed  to  constitute  its  only  pretensions  as 
a  port  for  commerce. 

(The  morning  at  Jacmel,  next  week.) 


LETTER    No,  28, 

HAYTI  AND  THE  CORONATION 
ITS   EMPEROR. 


The  foremost  inhabitant  of  Hayti  to  welcome  our 
boat's  approach  was  a  negro  clad  in  a  suit  of  black  — 
the  suit  he  was  born  in  —  standing  erect,  shiny  and  un 
conscious,  on  the  end  of  the  pier.  He  seemed  quite  in 
dependent  of  our  observation,  and  was  taking  his  morn 
ing  swim.  The  water  side  of  the  harbour  was  a  beach, 
with  the  exception  of  the  tumbling-down  wooden  wharf 
towards  which  we  were  heading  ;  and  a  few  stranded 
boats,  some  dead  animals  of  various  kinds,  and  prodi 
gious  heaps  of  rubbish,  formed  the  seaboard  line  of  the 
city  of  Jacmel.  All  I  could  see  in  the  way  of  buildings, 
looked  to  me  like  the  weather-beaten  booths  of  some 
long-deserted  fair.  There  was  nothing  that  could  else 
where  be  called  a  house  —  nothing  that  had  ever  been  clap- 
boarded,  painted  or  fenced  in  —  little  to  indicate  that 


268          HEALTH     TRIP^TO    THE     TROPICS. 

this  was  the  principal  port  and  town  of  the  "  Queen 
of  the  Antilles,"  an  island  as  large  as  Ireland,  and 
whose  Emperor,  Soulouque,  was  to  be  crowned  on  the 
following  Sunday.  Our  anticipations  had  been  a  little 
over-coloured,  perhaps,  from  the  description  which  one 
of  the  passengers  had  given  of  the  coronation  boots  of 
His  future  Majesty.  He  had  seen  them  in  New  York 
where  they  were  made.  The  cost  was  three  hundred 
dollars,  and  described  them  as  sumptuously  embroider 
ed  with  gold  and  hung  with  jewels  in  the  tassels. 

We  climbed  up  the  broken  timbers  of  the  half  fallen 
wharf,  with  some  difficulty,  and  were  immediately  sur 
rounded  and  addressed  very  volubly  in  French,  by  the 
most  ragged  rabble  I  had  ever  yet  fallen  among.  I  was 
inclined  to  think  at  first,  that  it  was  some  pantomimic 
festival,  and  that  the  universal  rags  and  strangely  con 
fused  costumes  were  but  the  fun  of  the  day.  Thero 
was  a  sentinel  on  duty  at  the  end  of  the  pier,  and  a 
shanty  near  by,  which  seemed  to  serve  as  a  guard 
house,  with  a  dozen  soldiers  around  the  door.  These 
military  negroes  were  even  needlessly  tattered  and  rag 
ged.  *  No  two  of  them  were  armed  or  dressed  alike. 
It  looked  as  if  it  might  be  a  frolic  masquerade,  got  up 
with  the  discarded  wardrobes  of  a  company  of  itiner 
ant  players — an  infantry  cap,  that  might  have  been  used 
for  a  fire-bucket,  on  one  head  ;  a  hussar  cap  that  may 
have  served  for  years  as  an  ash-pan,  on  another ;  one  a 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          269 

full  dress  grenadier  down  to  his  chin,  and  the  rest  of 
him  a  complete  ragamuffin ;  fhe  fourth  in  a  general's 
epaulettes,  but  barefooted  ;  this  one  with  only  a  bayonet 
stuck  through  his  trousers'  pocket,  that  one  with  a  shab 
by  old  court  sword,  the  next  with  a  rusty  musket — the 
whole  apparelling  and  equipment  a  caricature  of  cast- 
on0  finery  and  uniform.  I  was  prepared  to  laugh  at  them 
for  civility's  sake.  It  was  scarcely  possible  that  they 
did  not  expect  it.  But  the  savage  fierceness  with  which 
they  surveyed  us  from  head  to  foot,  fortunately  kept  me 
grave;  and  a  mulatto,  to  whose  politeness  I  was  after 
wards  indebted,  informed  me  that  it  would  have  been 
a  dangerous  blunder.  The  whites  are  only  tolerated 
there,  he  earnestly  assured  me,  and  as  my  skin  was  of 
the  objectionable  colour,  I  inferred  from  his  friendly 
caution  that  I  had  best  know  my  place  and  be  civil. 

The  access  from  the  wharf  to  the  main  street  of  the 
town  was  between  the  rear  corners  of  two  buildings  set 
askew — all  the  houses  of  the  place,  indeed,  conveying 
the  impression  that  they  had  been  lifted  by  a  flood  and 
dropped  again,  pell  mell,  with  confused  fronts  and  an 
gles — and,  passing  through  this  opening,  we  entered 
upon  an  irregular  avenue  of  shabby  shops.  These  were 
structures  of  rough  boards,  one  story  high,  the  single 
window  consisting  of  a  wooden  shutter  hung  on  a  hinge, 
and  displaying  the  goods  within  by  being  raised  and 
hooked  to  a  sort  of  shed-roof  in  front.  The  shop-keep- 


270         HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS. 

ing  seemed  to  be  the  employment  of  the  women  only, 
and  a  very  full-dressed  and  self-possessed  class  they 
seemed  to  be.  A  pair  of  bare  shoulders,  a  very  gay- 
coloured  turban,  a  necklace  and  ear-rings,  and  some 
thing  like  a  full  ball  dress,  waited  for  the  customer  at 
every  door.  She  sat  in  a  chair,  with  all  her  gay  goods 
hanging  around  her,  and  two  or  more  naked  children 
played  in  the  dirt  at  her  feet — but  there  was  none  of 
the  surly  gravity  of  the  male  inhabitants  in  this  other 
gender  of  citizens.  Desirous  of  purchasing  some  me 
mento  of  the  place,  in  the  way  of  an  article  manufac 
tured  there,  I  went  into  shop  after  shop,  ransacking 
their  various  assortments  of  things  for  sale,  and  endea 
voring  in  vain  to  find  something  Haytian.  There  were 
only  the  brighter  coloured  portions  of  London  Oxford 
street,  or  of  the  New  York  Bowery.  The  showy 
dames  were  all  smiles  and  accommodation,  however, 
every  one  with  manners  which  would  be  called  frolic 
some  elsewhere,  and  whether  because  their  answers 
were  in  French,  I  cannot  say,  but  it  seemed  to  me  that 
they  were  all  unusually  witty  and  ready.  After  taxing 
for  some  time  the  patience  of  one  of  them,  a  plump 
dame  of  twenty  or  twenty-five,  in  a  green  gauze  dress 
and  yellow  turban,  I  asked,  with  some  impatience,  what 
on  earth  they  did  make  in  that  island.  Her  reply  was 
instant  and  expressed  with  a  look  of  mischievous  arch 
ness  of  which  I  should  have  well  liked  a  daguerreotype, 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE    TROPICS.         271 

oy  way  of  the  memento  I  was  seeking  : — ^-Rien  queles 
cnfans,  Monsieur  !     En  voulez  vous  ?" 

With  my  chance  companion,  (an  English  passenger 
\vlio  had  come  ashore  with  me  in  the  freight-boat,)  I 
strolled  through  all  that  we  could  find  in  the  way  of 
streets,  the  other  principal  one  leading  up  rather  a  pre 
cipitous  hill.  Both  had  the  traces  of  being  ravaged  at 
times  by  powerful  torrents.  Large  and  loose  stones  lay 
in  the  centre,  and  the  lower  street,  which  was  more 
closely  populated,  seemed  built  on  the  two  banks  of  a 
common  sewer,  so  filthy  as  well  as  rough  was  its  whole- 
extent.  We  saw  no  marks  of  wheels.  Probably  there 
is  no  vehicle  on  the  island.  Ten  or  twelve  black  horse 
men  passed  us — country  gentlemen,  we  were  told,  who 
ha*d  come  in  for  their  letters  by  the  steamer.  Their 
shabby  rags  were  partly  covered  by  leather  leggins, 
and  they  had  long  spurs  and  pistols  in  their  belts  and 
holsters.  No  man  rides  safely  in  the  island,  they  say, 
unless  armed  to  the  teeth.  Broad-brimmed  straw  hats 
and  all,  however,  these  horsemen  were  not  unpictur- 
esque  objects. 

The  inhabitant  with  whom  we  had  the  most  conver 
sation,  was  a  female  hen  merchant,  whose  importunity 
might  have  been  partly  curiosity,  but  it  exceeded  even 
that  of  a  Yankee  pedler.  With  her  basket  on  her  head, 
and  her  chickens  trying  apparently  to  talk  her  down, 
she  followed  us  from  shop  to  shop,  giving  us  a  torrent 


272          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

of  French  persuasion  between  every  two  doors,  till  she 
brought  us  to  a  regular  parley.  Why  we  wanted  no 
chickens  was  to  be  distinctly  stated.  It  was  not  rea 
sonable  that  sho  should  have  nothing  to  sell  us.  "  But 
what  would  you  take  for  yourself?"  asked  my  com 
panion,  rather  impertinently.  "  Pour  combien  de  temps, 
Monsieur  ?"  was  her  ready  and  mischievous  reply. 

Having  come  on  shore  without  my  breakfast,  and 
feeling  the  want  of  "  summat,"  I  selected  the  most  ami 
able-faced  coloured  gentleman  I  could  see  in  the  street, 
and  enquired  my  way  to  an  eating-house.  He  was  a 
young  man  very  well  dressed,  and  seemed  promenading 
at  his  leisure.  .Taking  his  cigar  from  his  mouth  with 
very  deliberate  grace  and  self-possession,  he  said  there 
was  no  hotel  nor  eating  house  in  the  place — but  if  we 
would  honor  him  so  far,  his  breakfast  should  be  nearly 
ready  at  his  lodgings,  at  that  hour,  and  we  should  be 
most  welcome  to  share  it.  This  prompt  and  frank  in 
vitation  was  given  with  a  grave  and  courtly  politeness 
that  I  thought  quite  a  model  of  good  taste,  and  nothing 
but  our  limited  time  prevented  my  accepting  it,  with 
quite  his  own  freedom  from  prejudice  as  to  difference 
of  colour.  My  two  or  three  hours  of  conversance  with 
the  coloured-ocracy  of  the  island  had  somehow  insen 
sibly  given  a  sort  of  level  to  my  notions  on  the  subject 
of  complexion.  That  I  should  have  any  hesitation  in 
returning  the  compliment  of  the  polite  Haytian,  and  in- 


HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS.          273 

viting  him  to  breakfast  in  New  York,  were  he  to  meet 
me  there,  seemed,  at  the  time,  a  very  improbable  illi 
berality. 

Our  friend  had  directed  us  to  a  shop  where  he 
thought  we  might  get  a  banana  and  a  bottle  of  claret, 
on  our  way  to  the  water  side.  We  climbed  up  three 
or  four  crazy  steps,  and  made  our  entrance  into  the  din 
gy  front  apartment  of  the  one-story  house  he  had  indica 
ted — a  shop  lighted  by  the  small  swung-up  window- 
shutter,  and  something  like  a  narrow  wine-closet  in  its 
accommodations.  On  the  floor,  however,  were  two  ve 
ry  interesting  objects — a  baby  quite  w?hite,  and  a  baby 
quite  black.  I  mention  them  for  the  sake  of  recording 
a  new  experience.  Taking  up  *the  two  children,  I  was 
immediately  struck  with  the  difference  in  the  feel  of 
their  skins.  It  had  never  happened  to  me  before  to  pass 
my  hand  over  a  live  negro  surface,  and,  to  my  surprise, 
the  black  child  felt  like  quite  a  different  fabric  from  the 
white  one.  It  was  like  a  warm  bundle  of  uncut  velvet, 
singularly  rich  and  agreeable  to  the  touch.  Could  it 
have  been  peculiar  to  that  one  tropical  child,  or  is  it  the 
feel  of  the  race,  common  to  them  in  all  climates  ?  I 
ask  it  as  a  question  in  natural  history. 

A  look  into  the  back  room  of  our  wine-dealer's 
premises  showed  that  there  was  French  taste  prevalent 
in  the  island  as  well  as  the  French  language.  It  was  a 

large,  roughly-boarded    apartment,  with   rude   rafters 
12* 


274         HEALTH     TRIP     TO   THE     TROPICS. 

overhead,  and  no  sign  of  any  attempt  beyond  mere 
shelter  from  the  weather;  yet  the  three  beds  in  three 
of  the  corners  would  have  looked  tempting  even  in  a 
Parisian  hotel — the  sheets  snowy  white,  the  ample  pil 
lows  edged  with  lace,  and  the  coverlids  of  the  best 
quality.  The  woman  who  officiated  as  vender  of  li 
quors  was  polite,  but  not  talkative.  She  uncorked  our 
bottle  of  claret,  and  pointed  out  a  heap  of  pine-apples 
in  a  dark  corner ;  but  it  was  evidently  against  the  cus 
tom  of  the  house  to  have  wine  drank  on  the  premises, 
and  she  obliged  us  reluctantly  with  tumblers  and  room 
to  stand.  While  we  were  enjoying  the  delicious  fruit, 
and  the  wine,  (which  seemed  to  me  the  best  claret  I 
had  ever  tasted)  a  mulatto  came  in  who  had  been  a 
a  slave  and  was  brought  up  in  Charleston,  South  Caro 
lina.  He  spoke  the  first  English  we  had  heard  on  the 
island.  By  his  account,  the  coronation  of  Soulouque, 
which  was  to  have  taken  place  on  the  following  Sun 
day,  was  deferred  by  the  disaffection  of  some  of  the 
more  important  personages  of  the  capital,  and  the  Gov 
ernor  of  Jacmel  particularly  was  opposed  to  the  would- 
be  Emperor,  and  had  gone  to  Port  au  Prince  to  pre 
vent  the  ceremony.  The  mulattoes  were  the  opposing 
party,  and  they  were  strongest  hereabouts.  In  the 
other  cities  of  the  island,  the  undiluted  black-blood  was 
in  the  majority,  and  Soulouque  had  sworn  the  ex- 
Unction  or  ultimate  expulsion  of  every  shade  of 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS.          275 

white.  To  be  the  ebon  Emperor  of  a  realm  all  negro, 
is  his  ambition  and  resolve.  With  a  circumference  of 
a  thousand  miles,  850,000  inhabitants,  scenery,  soil  and 
productions  unsurpassed,  an  Eden  of  a  climate,  and 
ports  that  are  on  the  world's  most  frequented  highway, 
this  coming  Cuffeedom  may  yet  be  an  important  power. 

While  loitering,  as  we  thought  rather  venturesomely 
over  our  fruit  and  wine,  we  hailed  the  cockswain  of  our 
boat,  passing  the  door,  and  found  we  had  still  an  hour 
of  waiting  for  the  mail.  They  take  it  leisurely,  in  these 
seas — I  was  everywhere  happy  to  discover — Her  Ma 
jesty's  steamers  seldom  making  more  than  five  miles  in 
the  hour,  and  the  stoppages  at  ports  being  more  ruled 
by  Southern  luxuriousness  than  Northern  expeditious- 
ness.  I  did  not  complain,  even  of  the  five  days,  beyond 
her  time,  which  this  steamer  had  kept  us  waiting  for  her 
at  St.  Thomas.  Hurry  seems  no  more  natural  to  that 
latitude  than  ice. 

The  one  wharf  was  now  crowded  with  the  gentlemen 
of  Jacmel,  assembled  to  see  the  departure  of  the  packet. 
Two  very  elegant  young  mulattoes  were  the  only  ex 
ceptions  to  the  universal  raggedness  and  shabbiness, 
and  these  two  youths,  I  was  told,  were  the  sons  of  the 
wealthiest  merchant  in  the  place,  and  had  been  educated 
in  Paris — just  returned.  They  looked  anything  but 
amused  or  at  home.  I  endeavored  to  stroll  about,  on 
the  wharf,  and  look  on,  unobserved ;  but  I  found  that 


276          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

every  man  whom  I  looked  at  without  addressing,  seemed 
to  resent  it  as  an  impertinence,  and  my  friend,  the 
Carolina  mulatto,  came  up  and  cautioned  me  against 
being  too  obviously  observant.  He  said  that  there  was 
an  impatience  of  the  eye  of  the  white  man,  as  it  was 
generally  supposed  to  be  seeking  something  to  ridicule 
or  disparage.  I  spoke  to  several,  however,  and  invaria 
bly  received  most  kind  and  courteous  answers. 

As  we  were  about  climbing  down  the  broken  rafters 
into  the  boat,  a  jet-black,  half  naked  Hercules  seized  me 
by  the  arm,  and  pointed  to  a  sack  of  pine-apples 
which  I  had  stopped  to  look  at  on  first  landing.  Glad 
to  secure  the  delicious  fruit,  I  offered  him  the  money 
he  had  first  asked,  but  he  now  wanted  twice  as  much,  for 
the  time  which  he  said  I  had  kept  him  waiting.  His 
affected  fury  and  violent  gestures  at  my  turning  quietly 
away,  drew  a  crowd  immediately  around  us,  and,  as 
there  was  some  delay  in  bringing  round  the  boat,  he 
had  me  quite  at  his  mercy.  I  really  expected,  part  of 
the  time,  to  be  knocked  head  foremost  into  the  water. 
In  broken  English  he  swore  he  was  "  proud  man,  too," 
and  "  big  man,"  and  "  wasn't  going  to  be  kept  waiting,'* 
and  "  white  rascal  damn  mean,"  etc.,  etc.  But  persist, 
ing  in  laughing  at  his  claim  as  a  joke,  I  finally  took  the 
first  step  to  embark,  and  then  turned  and  offered  him 
once  more  the  original  silver.  The  black  faces  of  our 
audience  expressed  clearly  a  preference  for  my  side  in 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          277 

the  dispute,  and  the  naked-legged  giant  gave  in.  The 
tow-cloth  bag,  with  its  twenty  pines,  was  tossed  into 
the  boat  with  a  sulky  look  of  defiance,  his  dirty  fist  took 
the  money  instead  of  fulfilling  his  threats  of  knocking 
me  overboard,  and  so  ended  my  intercourse  with  the  in 
habitants  of  the  "  Queen  of  the  Antilles."' 

We  were  soon  under  way,  gliding  smoothly  over  the 
loveliest  of  seas,  with  leaf-burthened  mountains  looking 
down  temptingly  upon  us,  and  I  stayed  on  deck  till  we 
lost  the  delicious  fragrance  from  the  shore,  and  could 
no  longer  distinguish  the  graceful  curvings  of  bay  and 
promontory.  It  is  an  Eden  to  see  and  inhale  the  breath 
of  this  fair  isle — though  the  new  Adam  and  Eve  be  of 
colour  least  prayed  for  in  our  "  Paradise  Regained." 
I  shall  look  to  its  coming  history  with  no  little  interest. 


LETTER    No.    29. 


HAVANA,  &o. 

The  MILITARY  MASS  calls  people  very  early  out  of  their 
beds,  on  Sunday  mornings  at  Havana — early,  that  is  to 
say,  considering  breakfast  and  the  holiday  toilette  to  be 
achieved  before  starting.  So  magnificently  elaborate, 
indeed,  are  the  full  ball  dresses  which  alight  at  the  church 
door,  and  so  ready  for  conquest  look  those  unbonneted 
and  bare-shouldered  worshippers,  that  the  service  seems 
less  the  beginning  of  a  day  than  a  sort  of  doxology  after 
a  ball.  There  are  no  pews  on  the  church  floor ;  the 
ladies'  heads  are  dressed  with  flowers  and  jewels,  and 
the  gentlemen  are  in  white  cravats  and  body  coats  ;  and 
the  assembling  of  the  audience  with  these  rather  festal 
costumes  and  surroundings,  has  no  very  devout  aspect 
for  a  stranger. 

I  was  abroad  a  little  before  the  hour,  on  the  first 
Sunday  that  I  was  in  Havana,  and,  not  knowing  Spanish 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          279 

enough  to  inquire  my  way,  I  picked  out  a  gentleman  who 
had  a  segar  stuck  behind  his  ear  like  a  clerk's  pen,  and 
who  was  quite  *too  newly  equipped  in  other  respects 
not  to  be  going  from  home  and  to  the  fashionable  resort, 
and  followed  him  as  my  best  probable  guide.  The  con 
jecture  proved  a  true  one.  His  pace,  tropical  and  leis 
urely,  brought  us  duly  to  the  church  door  —  giving 
me  time,  on  the  way,  to  look  at  him  and  his  acquain 
tances,  and  to  make  an  observation  as  to  the  build 
and  style  of  Cuban  gentlemen. 

Owing,  it  is  said,  to  early  initiation,  as  children,  into 
the  unbridled  license  of  plantation  life,  to  excessive 
smoking  and  to  intermarriage  of  the  same  race  through 
many  generations — to  these  causes  more  than  to  climate 
— the  Cuban  gentlemen  are  the  most  miniature  aristocracy 
in  the  world.  There  seems  hardly  an  exception.  They 
are  so  universally  small  that  a  promenade  in  Havana  is 
like  taking  a  walk  in  Liliput — or  so  it  strikes  you  if  you 
come  suddenly  upon  an  Englishman  or  an  American 
of  the  ordinary  size,  and  are  thus  reminded  of  the  con 
trast.  At  the  same  time  there  is  a  curious  freedom 
from  pettiese  in  the  movements  and  manners  of  these 
little  gentlemen — an  apparently  entire  absence  of  any 
consciousness  of  being  smaller  than  other  people.  They 
feel  large;  and  they  walk,  sit,  bow  and  gesticulate,  like 
large  men  seen  through  an  inverted  opera-glass.  It 
would  appear  as  if  Bpani^h  dignity  and  courtliness  of 


280  HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS. 

mien  could  net  die  out,  nor  lessen  with  the  other  dim 
inutions  of  the  blood.  I  recollect  being  struck  with  it 
in  Gal  way,  on  the  west  coast  of  Ireland* — peopled  cen 
turies  ago  by  a  colony  from  Spain — where  not  only  the 
arhitecture  is  still  Spanish  and  very  unlike  the  rest  of 
Ireland,  but  where  the  dark  eyes  and  hair,  crossed 
with  the  red  cheeks  and  large  stature  of  another  race, 
are  even  less  expressive  of  their  origin  than  this  same 
deliberateness  of  movement  and  general  dignity  of  style 
and  demeanour.  We  are  to  see,  probably,  whether  it 
will  stand  the  infusion  of  the  blood  which,  of  all  on 
earth  is  most  unlike  it — the  restless,  hurried,  scrambling, 
undignified-ly  successful  Yankee,  and  I  hope  Cuba  will 
not  be  over-fillibustered,  but  will  remain  so  far  Spanish, 
for  the  next  fifty  years,  as  to  give  a  fair  chance  to  the 
experiment. 

As  to  the  apparent  character  in  the  physiognomy 
of  these  pocket  edition  copies  of  the  old  quarto  chivalry, 
there  seems  to  be  little  or  no  variety.  They  all  look 
torpidly  indolent,  passion-seated  and  cold,  at  the  same 
time  that  their  features  are  very  finely  cut,  and  the  ex 
pression  is  that  of  mingled  pride,  courtesy  and  refine 
ment.  Superciliousness  comes  very  easy  to  them,  and 
I  have  noticed  some  marked  instances  of  it  whenever 
the  turned-down  shirt  collar  (considered  to  be  the  in 
variable  indication  of  a  Yankee)  appeared  on  a  public 
promenade.  Whatever  republican  love  there  may  be 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE      TROPICS.          281 

for  us  among  the  Creoles  in  other  parts  of  the  island, 
there  is  no  trace  of  it  to  be  found  in  the  scornful  sal 
low  lip  of  the  Havanese  gentleman  recognising  an 
American.  A  coffee-house  in  the  suburb,  the  walls  of 
which  are  painted  with  fresco  caricatures  of  us,  gives  a 
key  to  the  feeling  most  prevalent  in  the  metropolis. 

But — to  the  military  mass  : — 

I  had  followed  my  unconscious  guide  to  an  excellent 
standing  place  near  the  altar,  and  we  observed,  to  great 
advantage,  the  coming-in  of  the  gay  dames  who  formed 
the  centre  of  the  audience.  Each  one  was  preceded  by 
the  postillion  of  her  volante,  who  laid  down  her  kneeling- 
carpet  on  the  marble  floor,  and  a  black  servant-maid 
followed  with  a  low  chair  and  a  missal.  Never  were 
ladies  more  becomingly  placed.  Everything  around 
contributed  to  the  effect  of  those  tranquil  dark  eyes  and 
un-lustrous  ivory  of  those  plump  shoulders — for  plump 
is  every  woman  in  Cuba,  I  believe,  as  certainly  as  every 
gentleman  is  thin.  The  central  floor  of  the  church, 
thus  occupied,  formed  altogether  a  beautiful  picture. 
It  was  like  a  gorgeous  design,  by  Turner's  delicious 
pencil.  It  was  an  artistic  addition  to  the  effect,  by  the  way, 
though  probably  not  to  the  pleasure  of  the  dames  of  qual 
ity,  that  beggar  women  came  in  and  knelt  upon  the  bits 
of  bare  floor  between  the  corners  of  the  rich  carpets — 
a  promiscuousness  such  as  we  are  promised  in  Heaven, 
of  course,  but  bringing  praying  rags  and  praying  jewels 


282          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

into  closer  contact  than  I  had  ever  before  seen  in  this 
world  of  sinful  assortment.  I  declare  that  a  lump  quite 
rose  in  my  throat  at  the  poetry  there  was  in  it.  I  gave 
the  Catholic  religion  a  white  mark  for  worship  in  which 
it  might  occur.  Beggars  are  spoken  equalizing  to,  by 
other  sects ;  but,  as  to  their  approaching  where  they 
touch  elbows  with  richer  sinners  while  they  pray,  there 
would  probably  be  many  a  Protestant  objection — pew- 
door  vetat,  to  begin  with,  at  least. 

There  was  an  introduction  to  the  after  music,  by  the 
way,  which  sounded  curiously  to  my  ear — the  trailing 
over  the  marble  floor  of  the  enormous  spurs  of  the 
negro  postillions.  Bringing  in  and  unrolling  their  mis 
tresses'  carpets,  they  next  made  for  the  font  of  holy 
water  on  the  other  side  of  the  church,  dipped  their 
fingers  and  re-crossed  to  the  street  door — a  double 
traverse  to  which  their  shovel-and-tongs-sized  persuaders 
marie  a  most  clamorous  accompaniment.  So,  perhaps, 
sounded  the  spurs  of  knights  on  the  floors  of  castles  of 
old — though  I  doubt  if  ever  knight  wore  so  much 
metal  in  sword,  buckler  and  dagger,  all  complete,  as 
forms  the  spur  of  one  of  these  Jehus.  The  jack-boot  to 
which  it  is  affixed  is  proportionately  monstrous,  reaching 
to  the  hips,  and  serving  a  secondary  purpose  in  this 
drowsy  climate — the  negro,  as  he  sits  on  the  doorstep 
waiting  for  his  master,  resting  his  head  on  the  stiff  boot- 
fronts  high  before  him,  and  sleeping  as  comfortably  as 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          283 

on  the  front  of  a  pew.  The  dress  throughout  is  equally 
clumsy  and  ostentatious.  The  jacket  is  one  mass  of 
silver  lace,  the  waistcoat  elaborately  embroidered,  and  the 
hat  bound  with  silver.  And  I  was  told,  that,  to  have  a 
volante,  with  a  postillion  thus  equipped,  was  considered 
in  Havana,  indispensable  to  any  respectable  condition 
of  life,  the  barber's  wife  and  the  shoemaker's  as  certain 
to  have  one  as  the  millionaire.  A  city  so  full  of  dash 
ing  equipages,  I  am  quite  sure,  is  not  to  be  found  in  the 
world.  It  gives  a  wonderful  gayety  to  Havana.  At  the 
promenade  hour,  every  common  day,  in  that  compara 
tively  small  capital,  seems  like  a  festa  in  some  grand 
metropolis. 

I  will  extend  this  digression  to  explain  that  a  "volante' 
is  a  far  more  ostentatious  vehicle  than  the  private  carriage 
of  any  other  country.  The  lady  riding  in  it  is  as  much 
seen  as  in  her  easy-chair  at  home — always  bare-headed, 
usually  bare-shouldered,  and  with  her  jewels  upon  her 
neck  and  wrists,  her  fan  spread,  and  her  face  undisguised- 
ly  made  up  to  be  admired.  The  body  of  the  volante  is 
that  of  the  old-fashioned  chaise,  with  one  seat,  carrying 
properly  but  two  persons.  The  shafts  are  so  long,  and 
the  horse  with  the  postillion  astride  of  him  is  so  far 
ahead,  that  it  is  commonly  explained  as  a  precaution 
against  a  man's  losing  both  horse  and  carriage  by  the 
same  earthquake.  It  is  made  to  look  less  graceful,  as  to 
outline,  by  a  law  of  Havana,  which  forbids  any  horse  to  be 


284          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

abroad  without  his  tail  tied  to  the  saddle ;  the  most  showy 
animal,  therefore,  having  this  flowing  appendage  braid 
ed  and  tightly  drawn  around  and  fastened  to  his  side. 
(The  object  of  the  law,  I  believe,  is  to  secure  the  pas 
senger,  in  those  narrow  streets,  from  being  spattered  by 
the  whisking  of  the  numerous  tails  in  muddy  weather  ; 
but  it  is  cruel  in  fly-time,  besides  giving  the  spirited 
creature  a  most  amputated  and  inelegant  appearance.) 
Ill-contrived  as  this  enormously  long  vehicle  would  seem, 
however,  for  mechanical  economy  of  draught,  it  is  the 
easiest  and  most  luxurious  conveyance  in  the  world,  as 
well  as  the  best  fitted  for  display  in  a  public  prome 
nade.  The  Cuban  ladies  will  be  slow  to  give  up  the 
volante  for  any  carriage  that  may  be  introduced  by  the 
invading  Yankee. 

I  should  add  a  curious  fact  to  this  mention  of  the 
volante.  It  and  its  horse  do  not  keep  the  same  society. 
At  the  end  of  the  drive,  the  horse  goes  to  the  stable — 
but  the  vehicle  to  the  front  parlour  !  It  is  literally  an 
article  of  drawing  room  furniture.  "With  a  neat  stand 
to  hold  up  the  shafts,  it  occupies  one  side  of  the  recep 
tion-room  in  which  sits  the  lady  of  the  house,  and  its* 
presence  there  is  evidently  thought  creditable  to  the 
pride  and  style  of  the  family.  It  is  partly  owing,  per 
haps,  to  the  fact  that  the  houses  in  this  climate  are 
built  with  a  large  court,  the  centre  of  which  is  open  to 
the  sky ;  but  the  family  portraits  hang  on  the  walls 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          285 

around  this  half-roofed  apartment,  and  it  is  the  inhabit 
ed  portion  of  the  house — the  place  where  company  is 
received,  and  where  stands  the  work-table  and  piano, 
cradle  and  flower-stand.  And  this  blending  of  parlour 
and  carriage-house  seems  the  more  surprising  to  the 
stranger,  when  he  looks  in  from  the  street,  (every  house 
being  open  to  the  observation  of  the  passer-by,)  and 
sees  the  pompous  ceremony  with  which  the  white-gloved 
and  body-coat-ed  visitor  is  received  by  the  lady  sitting 
alongside  of  her  vehicle.  In  point  of  fact  it  is  a  sort 
of  coat-of-arms  upon  wheels — an  escutcheon  to  which  a 
horse  may  be  harnessed  for  the  owner  to  take  a  drive ! 
Yours,  &c. 


LETTER   No, 80, 


CONTINUATION  OF  DESCRIPTION 
OF  MILITAEY  MASS,  &c. 

THE  close  crowded  congregation  of  beauties  and  fe 
male  "beggars,  in  the  centre  of  the  church,  were  on 
their  knees  with  their  prayer-books, — (the  men  lounging 
about  the  side  aisles  as  if  their  sins  were  included  in 
those  of  the  women,  and  one  sex  did  the  praying  for 
both,) — when  the  military  band  was  heard  approaching, 
and,  with  a  lively  quick-step,  they  presently  made  their 
entrance  over  the  threshold.  The  sound  of  the  time 
keeping  feet,  and  the  sonorous  reverberation  of  the 
drums  from  the  lofty  roof,  were  startling  interruptions 
to  the  silent  service  that  had  been  for  some  time  going 
on,  and  it  was  more  like  an  invasion  than  an  act  of  rev 
erence  to  see  six  tall  poineers  draw  their  axe-falchions, 
surround  a  priest  in  a  long  white  robe,  and  march  him 


HEALTH     T  R  I  F     TO     THE     TROPICS.          287 

to  the  front  of  the  altar.  They  were  to  officiate  as  his 
body-guard  apparently.  The  pioneer  cap  is  a  particu 
larly  irreverent  looking  one,  however ;  and,  as  they 
wore  it  cocked  jauntily  on  one  side,  while  the  shaven 
skull  of  the  priest  was  bare  in  their  midst,  the  "  god  of 
war"  seemed  to  have  rather  the  upper  hand. 

The  troops  were  arranged  along  the  sides  of  the 
church,  with  the  officers  standing  behind  the  kneeling 
congregation  of  dames  in  the  centre,  when  at  a  sudden 
tap  of  the  drum,  the  soldiers  dropped  on  one  knee,  and 
the  band  commenced  playing  an  air  from  the  fashion 
able  Opera  of "  La  Favor ita."  Between  the  bars  of 
the  profane  but  sweet  music,  the  voice  of  the  priest, 
reciting  the  mass  at  the  altar,  could  be  heard  ;  and  with 
his  open  book  before  him  he  alternately  read  and  knelt, 
and  the  little  boys  in  white  robes  swung  the  smoking 
censers,  and  the  tall  candles  burned,  and  the  worship 
went  visibly  on.  But  the  music  of  the  band  seemed 
an  entirely  separate  affair.  It  was  theatre  and  church 
contesting  the  occupancy  of  the  place.  Airs  from  dif 
ferent  Operas  followed  each  other,  the  drum  alone  re 
cognising  the  religious  service  by  a  loud  tap  from  the 
kneeling  drummer  whenever  the  priest  knelt  or  rose. 
The  soldiers  in  the  ranks  accompanied  him  in  his  drop- , 
pings  and  risings,  and  I  noticed  that  their  lips  moved 
in  apparently  devout  prayer  when  prostrate ;  but  the 
officers  preserved  the  erect  position,  and  their  handsome 


288          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROTICS. 

moustaches  made  no  stir  for  or  emus  or  paternoster. 
These  officers  were  small  but  very  distinguished  looking 
men,  by  the  way.  The  orders  upon  the  breasts  of 
their  uniforms  showed  them  to  be  noblemen ;  and  this 
corps,  the  Artillery,  is  the  most  distinguished  one  in 
the  Cuban  army.  In  their  regular  and  decided  features, 
and  graceful  military  postures,  there  was  a  completeness 
of  the  soldierlike  air,  and  something  unequivocally  chiv- 
alric  over  all.  Of  the  resolute  peppering  from  the  can 
non  of  these  caballeros,  the  Filibusters  may  make 
sure. 

In  the  wickedest  of  Operas,  "  Lucrezia  Borgia,"  oc 
curs  the  most  delicious  passage  (I  have  sometimes 
thought)  in  all  music,  Orsini's  story  told  to  his  unknown 
mother;  and  I  could  wish  this  transferred  to  sacred  words 
and  use,  with  a  law  against  its  ever  serving  in  profane 
amusement  again.  Its  pathos  and  appealing  tenderness 
are,  it  seems  to  me,  the  articulate  embodiment  of  a  con 
fession  and  a  prayer.  Heard  in  that  dim  church,  with 
lights  upon  the  altar  and  a  congregation  kneeling 
around,  it  stirred  one's  tears  spite  of  the  surroundings 
otherwise  undevout.  Benedetto,  \vhose  moving  and  re 
fined  voice  used  to  breathe  it  so  touchingly  at  our  opera, 
was  educated,  they  say,  for  a  monk,  and  I  \vould  go 
far  to  hear  him  sing  it,  apparelled  in  cord  and  sacred 
stole. 

Uut  never  in  theatre  or  ball-room  was  heard  livelier 


HEALTH     T  11  I  P     TO     THE     T  E  O  F  I  C  8  .          289 

music  than  followed  close  upon  this  —  the  "  divine 
service''  of  the  morning  proceeding  with  a  rapid  suc 
cession  of  redowas  and  polkas,  waltzes  and  mazurkas, 
while  the  audience  still  knelt  and  the  priest  still  prayed! 
The  vaulted  dome  and  dim  old  arches  answered  back 
to  these  dancing  jigs  with  all  the  alacrity  of  upper  tiers 
and  ball  room  ceilings,  however,  though  I  must  confess 
to  an  instinctive  impulse  to  escape  before  the  roof 
should  fall  in — sinners  that  we  were  even  to  listen  to 
such  music  in  such  a  place  !  It  was  really  too  pro 
fane,  too  contrary  to  the  proper  spirit  of  the  spot  if  it 
weiv  tor  artistic  effect  and  propriety  alone, leaving  higher 
standards  out  of  the  question,  and  its  formal  repetition 
every  Sunday,  and  the  fashionable  attendance,  show  the 
established  religion  of  the  island  to  be  reduced  to  a 
level  with  its  gayeties.  And  this  I  have  since  heard 
more  than  accounted  for.  in  the  characters  given  to  tho 
Cuban  priesthood  by  intelligent  residents.  They  de 
scribe  them  as  most  licentiously  and  openly  corrupt, 
and  entirely  without  respect  or  consideration  as  a  class 
in  the  community. 

To  "  see  the  people  come  out  of  church,"  is,  any 
where,  something  of  a  show,  but  the  pouring  out  and 
dispersion  of  the  audience  at  the  close  of  the  ki  Military 
M.-r-s"  at  Havana  is  a  lively  spectacle  indeed.  Just 
before  the  drum  struck  up  the  quick  step  for  the  exit 

of  the  troops,  (by  the  way.)    I  had  been   startled  by  a 
13 


290          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

novelty  of  sound,  in  the  deliberate  striking  of  the  church 
clock  in-doors — the  rafted  roof  being  open  up  to  the 
belfry,  and  the  nine  thundering  strokes  pealing  down 
upon  the  aisles  and  area  below  with  plunges  of  rever 
berating  echoes  that  were  like  a  cataract  of  time  de 
parting.  There  is  a  waltz,  by  Wallace,  which  stops 
suddenly  for  the  clock  to  strike  twelve ;  but  I  think  a 
vesper  voluntary  might  be  composed,  to  be  played  in 
this  dim  old  Spanish  church,  in  the  departing  twilight, 
where  the  interruption  of  the  belfry  clock's  ponderous 
and  solemn  iteration  might  come  in  very  effectively. 

American  ladies  have  a  new  experience  in  Havana, 
an  instance  of  which  I  saw  giving  some  annoyance  as 
the  gay  congregation  were  preparing  to  disperse.  A 
very  lovely  group  of  the  invalid  pilgrims  who  come 
with  every  winter  to  this  latitude,  stood  in  the  front 
line  of  the  side  aisle,  waiting  for  the  crowd  to  pass, 
when  two  or  three  of  the  little  elegantly-dressed  duode 
cimo  Spaniards  walked  around,  and,  planting  them 
selves  in  front,  looked  deliberately  into  their  bonnets, 
as  you  would  look  into  the  open  pane  of  a  post  office 
window.  The  ladies  at  first  raised  their  hands  to  their 
faces,  or  turned  an  inquiring  look  to  their  companions, 
evidently  thinking  the  gentleman  may  have  seen  a  wasp 
or  tarantula — lip  or  cheek  in  danger,  to  call  for  such 
close  investigation — but,  as  the  stare  continued,  they 
turned  their  backs  with  evident  surprise  and  displeas- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          29 1 

ure.  They  were  not  aware,  that,  by  the  custom  of  tho 
country,  they  were  receiving  a  polite  tribute  of  admira 
tion.  The  Spanish  lady  goes  home  very  discontented, 
from  promenade  or  public  resort,  if  she  was  not  ivalked 
up  to  and  looked  at.  The  windows  of  their  houses  are 
like  halves  of  bird-cages  thrust  out  from  the  wall,  and, 
as  they  sit  out  in  the  street,  with  only  an  iron  grating 
between  them  and  the  passer-by,  they  feel  slighted  if  he 
does  not  slacken  his  pace  and  gaze  deliberately  into  the 
dark  eyes  open  to  him.  It  is  an  innocent  admission  of 
what  beauty  is  supposed  to  be  made  for,  and  why 
jewels  are  worn  and  hair  braided — to  be  seen.  And 
this  custom,  I  think,  partly  gives  the  key  to  what  strikes 
the  stranger  as  a  peculiarity  in  the  physiognomy  of  this 
people.  There  is  no  dodge  in  the  Spanish  eye.  In  man 
or  woman,  it  comes  round  to  you  as  fair  and  square  as 
the  side  of  a  decanter — fearless  and  unwinking  as  an 
open  inkstand.  It  has  nothing  to  conceal  or  avoid.  It 
can  receive  no  offence  from  another's  look — it  can  give 
none  by  its  own.  This  seems  to  me  a  very  great 
beauty.  I  am  sorry  for  the  twenty  reasons  why  it  can 
not  be  a  peculiarity  of  a  "  fast  "  country  like  ours,  with 
its  exciting  rivalries,  and  highly  civilized  improvements 
upon  Nature.  The  rarest  thing  in  New  York  is  a 
calm,  trusting,  open  and  unsuspicious  eye. 

But  the  after-church  scene  !     A   dashing  regiment, 
with  bright  feathers  and  glittering  arms  marching  with 


292          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

lively  military  music  out  of  one  sacred  door — and 
scores  of  brilliant  equipages,  with  prancing  horses 
half-buried  in  gold  and  silver,  and  footmen  and  jockeys 
bedizened  all  over  with  gaudy  colours,  glittering  lace 
and  bright  metal,  drawn  up  at  the  threshold  of  another 
— the  ladies,  as  they  emerged  from  the  dim  light  of  the 
interior,  coming  bare-shouldered,  bare-headed,  and  full- 
dressed  into  the  sunshine  like  the  guests  from  a  ball 
that  had  been  danced  into  the  morning— the  costly  fans 
spreading  their  pearls  and  diamonds  between  the  bright 
light  and  the  multitudes  of  large  dark  trusting  eyes, 
loving  and  lambent — beggars  looking  happy  in  their 
warm  dirt  and  tatters,  and  romantic-mannered  Span 
iards  stepping  so  indolently  and  gesturing  so  carelessly 
and  gracefully,  that  the  scene  seemed  all  natural  and 
of  course,  and  nothing  forced  or  unnecessarily  extra 
vagant — this  scene,  I  say,  in  the  atmosphere  of  calm 
and  conscious  intoxication  which  belongs  to  the  climate, 
seemed,  somehow,  strangely  preferable  (for  once  in  a 
way)  to  a  New  England  April  morning  of  the  same 
date,  with  its  East  wind  and  more  exemplary  observ 
ances.  The  whole  ceremony  was  an  abominable  pro 
fanation  of  the  Sabbath — it  were  impossible  not  to  own 
— but  I  record  it  and  my  enjoyment  of  it,  as  one  of 
those  incidents  and  influences  which,  in  these  latitudes, 
6e-chloroform  the  soul  of  the  traveller. 

One   should  ask  pardon,  perhaps,   for  so  lengthy  a 


HEALTH     T  R  I  T     TO     THE     T  JR.  O  P  I.  C  S  .          293 

description  of  a  single  before-breakfast  experience — but 
the  prodigal  vegetation  of  the  clime  works  upon  one's 
pronouns  and  adjectives  as  it  does  upon  pine-apples 
and  pomegranates.  I  will  be  briefer  as  I  get  North. 


LETTER    No,  31, 

DEPARTURE     FEOM     HAVANA— 
FLORIDA,    &c. 

[The  re-publication  here  of  the  following  explanation, 
from  the  Home  Journal,  may,  perhaps,  be  explanatory 
of  my  invalid  interruptions,  for  the  reader  of  this  book 
also.] 

Hudson  Highlands,  February,  1853. 
DEAR  FRIEND: — 

The  bird  ivith  whose  feather  1  write,  (a  goose, 
but  with  an  opinion  of  his  own,)  seems  to  object  to 
coming  North  while  the  weather  is  so  cold.  In  a 
sketch  half  written,  of  my  starting  homeivard  on 
the  Mississippi  in  the  latter  part  of  May,  I  am 
stopped  by  a  memorandum  of  a  fire  in  the  cabin- 
stove,  the  first  I  had  seen  for  months — a  sign  oj 
latitudes  less  genial,  at  which  my  quill  grows 
manifestly  reluctant.  Shall  we  humour  the  bird  and 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS.  295 

turn  South  again,  dear  reader — leaving  Kentucky 
and  Ohio  till  the  reading  about  them  will  be  more 
seasonable  ?  I  have  a  wilderness  of  more  sunny 
memories,  in  pencil  waiting  for  ink — Martinique, 
to  which  the  unwilling  farewell  is  unrecorded  ; 
the  return  voyage  to  St.  Thomas  by  Guadaloupe 
and  St.  Vincent ;  the  lake-like  glide  'Westward 
along  the  Antilles ;  Porto  Rico  and  Jamaica  ; 
and  Havana,  a  bouquet  of  delicious seeings  and  en- 
ioyings,  from  which,  as  yet,  I  have  plucked  but  one 
pencilled  leaf  to  ink  over.  Shall  ID  e  forget  the  snow 
and  the  cold  winds  around  us,  and  go  back  to  these 
ivarm  memories  of  THE  TROPICS  ?  Or — I  have 
pencilling s  of  scenes  nearer  home,  the  return  by 
Florida  and  Savannah  to  Charleston,  and  the  tra 
verse  across  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  through 
Georgia  and  Alabama.  What  say  1  Shall  this 
last  track  of  my  memoranda  be  first  re-written  1 
It  may  breathe  less  fragrantly  of  the  voluptuous  air 
of  the  Tropics,  but  it  will  describe  a  healing  clime 
more  within  reach,  and  some  invalid  may  sooner 
profit  by  my  experience.  You  agree  1  A  nib  to 
this  summer-loving  quill,  then,  and  with  an  Adieu- 
sniff  of  the  sultry  April  of  Havana,  let  us  turn 
prow  across  the  Gulf  towards  the  Everglades  of 
Florida. 

Delighted,  if  I  can  show  you  anything  to  give 
you  pleasure,  through  this  words-glass  of  mine, 
dear  reader,  Yours,  N.  P.  w. 


12* 


EXCEPT  for  some  special  and  over-ruling  reason,  pro 
bably  no  traveller  comes  away  willingly  from  Havana. 
I  wondered  why,  (as  I  leaned  over  the  side  of  the 
"  Isabel,"  while  she  was  weighing  her  anchor)  and  I 
came  to  the  conclusion,  that  half  the  charm,  at  least,  of 
this  fascinating  place,  lies  in  the  fact  that,  gay  as  it  is, 
life  here  is  not  too  fast.  They  not  only  have  just 
luxuries  enough,  but  they  take  just  time  enough  to 
enjoy  them.  In  the  other  gay  metropolises  of  the  world 
life,  (in  this  our  day,)  is  so  exhaustingly  intellectualized, 
so  painfully  intensified,  so  unnaturally  accumulated  and 
accelerated,  that  the  "  another  and  better  world"  one 
sometimes  longs  for,  would  be  instinctively  defined  as 
one  ofbZessed  and  merciful  just-enough-ness.  It  amounts 
to  a  wretchedness  in  London  that  you  can  only  be  in 
one  place  at  a  time.  The  bewildered  youth  comes  from 
Paris  with  a  census  of  the  women  he  might  have  loved, 
without  having  stopped  to  love  one.  In  the  morning 
paper  which  a  man  devours  over  his  breakfast  in 
New- York,  there  are  three  or  four  Lectures  reported — 
new  stuff  enough  for  a  month's  thinking,  besides  news 
in  avalanches.  And — what  wTith  primas  donnas  to  hear, 
lions  to  see,  artists  to  appreciate,  public  dinners  to  eat, 
parties  to  go  to,  fortunes  to  make,  new  books  to  read, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          297 

politics  to  watch,  "progress"  to  keep  the  run  of,  society 
to  be  "  in,"  and  total  insignificance  to  desperately  con 
tend  with — the  powers  of  attention  of  a  common  individ 
ual,  are  blunted  to  the  stump — antennae,  feelers  and 
fingers,  stunned  and  paralyzed.  Materialists  tell  us 
that  human  faculties  have  sprung  into  existence,  one 
after  another,  as  there  was  a  necessity  for  them.  Is  it 
not  time  to  look  out  for  a  fresh  phenomenon  in 
New-York — a  man  with  two  brains  to  do  one  soul's 
headwork — two  hearts  to  do  his  loving — two  stomachs 
to  do  his  digesting — two  galls  to  do  his  envying  and 
hating,  and  two  pair  of  hands  to  do  his  spending  and 
money-making  ?  From  exhaustion  by  inward  over 
tasking,  which  has  really  become  the  most  common  dis 
ease  of  our  time,  Havana  is  a  hospital  of  recuperation 
— having  (as  I  said  before)  that  heavenly  just  enough 
of  life  and  excitement,  which  the  soul  yearns  for  while 
it  rejects  the  solitude  and  inanition  of  places  more  quiet 
and  secluded.  Most  travellers  have  a  touch  of  this 
complaint.  And  it  is  with  a  delicious  memory  of  the 
restored  tone  given  to  the  system  in  this  way,  that  the 
last  regretful  look  is  usually  taken  of  the  blue  and  red 
houses  of  Havana. 

We  glided  out  from  under  the  guns  of  Castle  Moro 
at  seven  o'clock  of  a  June-like  morning  of  April,  and, 
at  three  o'clock  of  that  same  clay,  were  off  the  coast  of 
13* 


298          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

Florida,  making  for  our  first  landing  at  Key  "West.     It 
was  a  smooth  run  across  the  Gulf — no  one  sea-sick,  ap 
parently,   and  the  deck,  with  its  crowd  of  lady  passen 
gers,  having  very  much  the  air  of  a  day -boat  to  Albany. 
A  Spanish  family,  (of  some  distinction,  by  the  mous 
taches  that  came  to  see   them  off,   and  handkerchiefs 
waved  after  them  at  parting)  had  taken  a  private  cabin, 
probably  in  expectation  of  the  usual  tribute  to  Neptune  ; 
but  the  plump  Senora,  who  had  eaten  her  breakfast 
under  Queen  Isabella,  carried  it  safely  into  tranquil  di 
gestion   under    our    filibustering    republic,   remaining 
bravely  on  deck  while  the  boat  passed  (with  no  per 
ceptible  jar)  over  the  Tropic  of  Cancer. 

The  first  view  of"  our  free  country,"  on  approaching 
it  from  the  South,  is  certainly  unfavourable.  The 
islands  off  the  point  of  Florida  are  sand  banks  only. 
KEY  WEST  looks  like  a  place  where  nature  "  has  been 
and  gone" — a  few  utterly  blasted  trees,  (killed  and  strip 
ped  almost  of  bark  by  a  hurricane  four  years  ago,)  be 
ing  the  only  sign  I  saw  of  indigenous  vegetation — an 
appearance  that  is  made  more  strange  by  the  delicious 
air  which  one  breaths  while  observing  it.  We  are  so 
accustomed  to  associate  bleakness  with  cold,  that,  in  the 
soft  warmth  of  tropical  air,  it  seems  unnatural.  Re 
membering  how  even  bare  rocks  will  find  room  and 
nourishment  for  some  growing  thing  in  the  ungenial  at- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          299 

mosphere  of  the  North,  it  feels  (in  the  lungs)  as  if  roses 
and  lilies  would  grow  in  the  air  only. 

"We  were  soon  moored  to  a  frame-work  of  very  long- 
legged  timbers — looking  like  a  wharf  with  its  trousers 
rolled  up.  wading  out  to  sea — and  part  of  the  structure 
being  a  "  look-out,"  (an  arrangement  something  like  a 
scaffolding  built  round  a  steeple,)  I  mounted  to  take  a 
general  view  of  this  capital  of  wrecker-dom.  It  seemed 
to  consist  pretty  much  of  one  long  street  of  wooden  and 
unpainted  houses  stretching  across  an  island  of  intensely 
white  sand,  everything  in  the  way  of  a  building  looking 
cheap  and  temporary.  The  sea  all  around  was  made 
dismal  by  being  part  of  such  a  landscape;  and,  to  look 
down  upon  such  a  town,  as  a  vis-a-vis  to  the  flowery 
and  luxurious  one  we  had  just  left  on  the  other  side  ot 
that  Southern  horizon,  was  indeed  a  contrast.  A  stroll 
up  to  what  was  apparently  the  centre  of  resort — a  gro 
cery  and  boarding  house  with  a  bar-room — did  not 
much  mend  my  impressions  of  things.  Half  a  dozen 
particularly  ill-favoured  looking  chaps  sat  smoking  upon 
a  shanty  portico,  with  their  feet  up  in  chairs,  half  occu 
pied  with  the  steamboat  passengers  and  half  with  the 
lashing  of  a  stout  fellow  to  a  cart.  He  w'as  a 
"  wrecker"  who  had  just  had  a  stroke  of  the  sun,  and 
for  the  tremendous  strength  with  which  he  dashed  hiin- 
self  about  in  his  frantic  fury,  the  four  men  who  were 
trying  to  confine  him.  seemed,  altogether,  hardly  a 


300  "    HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

match.     The  scene  was  watched  by  the  spectators  with 
evidently  much  more  amusement  than  sympathy. 

The  population  hereabouts,  who  are  supported  en 
tirely  by  wrecks,  number  seventeen  thousand.  They 
are  complaining  just  now  of  "  a  very  dull  season" — but 
few  disasters  having  happened  lately  along  the  coast. 
Business  is  brightened  up  a  little,  in  such  cases,  by  the 
art  of  persuasion,  the  wreckers  boarding  vessels  that 
are  in  safe  water,  and  convincing  the  captain  that  he  is 
within  reefs,  and  lost  unless  he  avails  himself  of  their 
better  knowledge  at  a  very  high  price.  It  is  an  open 
trade  of  villainy — as  wicked  a  beginning  for  a  new  com 
munity  as  was  ever  made,  probably,  by  seventeen  thou 
sand  people  in  the  previous  history  of  the  world.  Apro 
pos  to  my  need  of  statistics  on  the  subject,  yesterday's 
Tribune  (Jan.  29,)  contained  a  letter  from  "  Key  West," 
an  extract  from  which  will  perhaps  refresh  the  reader's 
knowledge  of  this  badly -booted  leg  of  our  country : — 

"  Since  the  date  of  my  last  letter,  there  have  been 
three  additional  wrecks  upon  the  Florida  Reefs,  making 
the  whole  number  of  wrecks,  since  the  advent  of  the 
present  year,  eight — the  number,  size  of  the  vessels,  and 
value  of  the  cargoes,  being  unprecedented  upon  this 
coast,  within  any  previous  period  of  twenty  days. 

The  salvage  upon  these  eight  vessels  will  exceed 
$50,000,  and  the  expenses  a  still  larger  sum,  giving  an 
unprecedented  impetus  to  the  business  of  this  Island 
City,  and  impressing  upon  the  faces  of  its  mixed  popu 
lation,  expressions  of  joy  and  gladness. 

We  naturally  associate  with  wrecks,  high  winds,  pro- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          301 

tracted  storms  and  terrific  thunder  gusts,  and  one  would 
naturally  infer  that  these  wreckers  could  say,  with  pecu 
liar  significancy,  '  It's  an  ill  wind  that  blows  no  one  any 
good  ;'  but  the  wrecks  upon  this  coast  more  frequently 
occur  in  fair  weather,  the  oceanic  current  and  eddies 
imperceptibly  drifting  the  vessels  off  their  course,  and 
upon  the  shoals  and  reefs,  which  extend  from  Cape 
Florida  to  the  Tortugas  Ke}7s,  a  distance  of  one  hun 
dred  and  sixty  miles.  And  another  reason  why  these 
wrecks  happen  more  freqently  in  fair  weather  is,  that 
many  of  them  are  premeditated  and  intentional,  and 
there  is  little  danger  to  life  and  property  in  drifting 
upon  shoals  or  reefs  in  fair  weather ;  of  course  a  dis 
honest  captain  would  designedly  wreck  his  vessel  only 
when  the  cargo  could  be  saved,  and  he  could  obtain  his 
share  of  the  spoils  by  arrangements  with  the  wreckers 
and  commission  merchants  for  a  division  of  the  salvage 
and  commissions. 

Last  year  there  were  but  twenty-two  wrecks  upon 
this  coast,  and  the-total  amount  of  salvage  and  expenses, 
$162,700.  In  1849,  they  were  $219,160  ;  and  during 
the  eight  years  previous  to  the  present,  the  aggregate 
amount  was  $1,434,584.  You  will  thus  see  that  the 
prospects  of  the  present  year,  to  the  wreckers,  are  un 
usually  flattering — eight  wrecks  in  twenty  days,  and  the 
salvages  and  expenses  at  least  $100,000. 

This  is  known  to  be  a  dangerous  coast,  not  especially 
on  account  of  its  sh'oals  and  reefs,  but  particularly  on 
account  of  the  oceanic  currents — the  Gulf-stream.  The 
immensely  valuable  exports  from,  and  imports  to,  the 
States  of  Florida,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana, 
Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Indiana,  Ohio,  Missouri,  Texas 
and  others,  pass  within  a  few  miles  of  these  shoals  and 
reefs,  and  the  Government  has  built  light-houses,  and 
erected  a  series  of  signals  upon  the  most  dangerous 
reefs,  for  the  protection  of  this  commerce.  Additional 
light-houses  are  building,  and  the  signals  and  beacons 
increasing,  although  Captain  Rollins,  of  the  steamer 


302         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

Isabel,  has  passed  along  these  reefs  four  times  monthly 
during  the  last  four  years,  without  accident. 

I  stated  in  my  last  letter  that  a  large  portion,  of  the 
wrecks  upon  this  coast  was  premeditated  and  intentional; 
that,  although  the  wrecking  business  was  popularly  re 
garded  as  quasi  piracy,  yet,  that  a  fractional  portion, 
only,  of  the  odium  was  justly  chargeable  to  the  ivreck- 
ers  /  that  the  captains  of  the  wrecked  vessels,  and  the 
wrecking  merchants  or  consignees,  individually  and  col 
lectively,  were  generally  the  guilty  parties.  Every  cap 
tain  has  the  selection  of  the  consignee  of  the  wrecked 
cargo  ;  and  every  captain,  who  frequents  this  coast 
knows  that  he  can  sell  the  consignment  for  from  $500 
to  $5,000,  according  to  its  value.  The  consignee  makes 
from  $5000  to  $10,000  upon  a  cargo  worth  $100,000, 
giving  him  a  large  margin  for  negotiating  with  the  cap 
tain  for  the  consignment. 

A  wrecking  merchant  is  one  who  has  a  dock  ware 
house,  and  often  a  large  and  general  assortment  of  ma 
rine  goods,  for  repairing,  furnishing  and  supplying  ves 
sels  and  their  crews  ;  and  some  of  these  merchants  are 
owners,  in  whole  or  in  part,  of  nearly  all  the  wrecking- 
vessels  of  the  port.  They  select  the  captains,  and  sup 
ply  the  vessels  with  provisions,  etc.,  and  the  captains 
are  generally  furnished  with  ample  means  and  full  power 
to  negotiate  with,  and  buy  from,  the  captain  of  every 
wrecked  vessel  he  boards,  the  consignment  of  the  car 
go,  so  that  the  merchant  is,  generally,  the  largest  inter 
ested  in  the  salvage,  as  owner  of  the  wrecking-vessels, 
— interested  in  obtaining  the  largest  award  of  salvage 
possible — and  is,  at  the  same  time,  the  consignee  of  the 
owners  of  the  cargo,  receiving  large  commissions,  upon 
the  supposition  that  he  labours  for  their  benefit,  and 
protects  their  interest  from  unjust  arid  exorbitant  salvage 
and  expenses.  Thus  you  perceive  how  multiplied  are 
the  ramifications  connected  with  this  wrecking  business 
— all  tending,  more  or  less,  to  cause  fraudulent,  collu 
sive  and  intentional  wrecks — to  seduce  men  from  the 


HEALTH    TfclP    TO    THE    TROPICS.  308 

strict  observance  of  honesty  and  fair  dealing  in  their 
business  relations,  and  resulting  in  making  this  wrecking 
business  quasi  piracy,  and  its  collateral  branches  dis 
honest  and  fradulent. 

For  several  days  past  the  auctioneer's  bell  has  called 
the  people  together  to  attend  the  sales  of  the  damaged 
goods  of  the  wrecked  cargoes — dry  goods  and  groceries, 
drugs  and  medicines,  boots  and  shoes,  hardware,  cotton- 
gins,  turning-lathes,  planing-machines,  books,  furniture, 
piano-fortes,  etc.  The  sales  were  well-attended,  and 
very  many  articles  sold  for  more  than  the  original  cost, 
while  others  at  great  bargains — six.  cofton-gins  sold  for 
$80  each,  worth  about  $2^50, 1  suppose  ;  and  two  piano- 
forts  sold  for  $117  and  $201,  worth  from  $200  to  $250, 
originally — they  were  but  slightly  damaged.  In  a  few 
days  we  shall  have  a  large  sale  of  damaged  cotton." 


LETTER    No.    82. 


TROPICAL     MAY     MORNING FLORIDA'S     GOOD     FORTUNE     IN 

NAMES    OF    PLACES RETURN    OF    INVALID  PILGRIMS  WITH 

SPRING,    AND    THE    LOVELIEST     RETURNING     TOO      SOON 

SAVANNAH    RIVER    AND    ITS  RICE-FIELDS PULASKI  HOUSE, 

AND     THE     REPUBLICAN    SYSTEM    AS    SEEN    IN    OUR    HOTEL 
SYSTEM TALL    STATURE    OF    SOUTHERNERS,    ETC.  ETC. 

The  first  of  May,  and  a  morning  air  by  which  a  new 
born  child  would  be  sufficiently  clad  !  What  a  con 
trast  to  New-England's  May  morning !  As  I  sat  on 
the  deck,  fanned  to  luxury  by  the  speed  of  our  swift 
steamer — the  sea  breathless  and  the  fragrance  from  the 
Florida  shore  full  of  the  undefinable  sweetness  of  the 
plants  of  the  tropical  wilderness — I  recalled  vividly,  by 
contrast,  those  "Firsts  of-May"  which  I  was  called  upon 
to  believe  in,  in  my  boyhood — the  rousings  before  day 
light  to  go  to  Dorchester  Heights,  and  the  shivering 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          305 

search  after  never-found  green  leaves  and  flowers.  Tho 
buttoning  up  of  boy-jacket  to  keep  out  the  cold  wind, 
and  pulling  out  of  penknife  to  cut  open  the  bare  stem 
of  the  sweet-brier  in  search  of  the  hidden  odour  of  the 
belated  bud,  formed  my  youthful  experience  of  that 
much  sung  festival — contrasted  now  with  the  same- 
named  anniversary  in  a  more  Southern  clime.  Oh,  this 
almanac-ing  for  all  latitudes  alike  ! 

It  is  common  enough  to  say  "What's  in  a  name," 
but,  as  we  sped  along  in  sight  of  the  shore  of  Florida,  I 
could  not  but  wonder  whether  it  might  not  be  reasona 
bly  more  stimulative  to  the  imagination — likelier  to  in 
spire  patriotic  poetry,  for  instance — that  the  names  of 
towns,  lakes  and  rivers,  along  that  vague  horizon  were 
so  musically  beautiful.  The  Spanish  and  Indian  taste 
are  alike  charming  in  nomenclature,  and  Florida  has  a 
poetical  inheritance  from  both.  Tallahassee  and  With- 
lacoochee,  Alachua  and  Suwanee — Florida  and  Fernan- 
dina,  Santa-Eosa,  and  Santa-Fe — were  names  as  easily 
given  as  Smith-ville  and  Jones- ville,  Cape  Cod  and  New 
York ;  and,  at  least,  euphoniously  and  poetically  prefer 
able.  It  has  probably  occurred  to  most  persons  of  taste 
that  the  giving  of  names  for  the  use  of  the  public  ha8 
been  done  much  too  carelessly  and  irresponsibly  in  our 
country — an  irremediable  evil  that  may  as  well  be  spoken 
of  while  there  are  towns  still  unborn  to  be  baptized. 

With  the  absolutely  delicious  air  and  lakelike  smooth- 


306          HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

ness  of  the  sea,  the  deck  of  the  Isabel  looked  more  like  a 
drawing-room  reception  than  a  voyage,  that  first  day  ol 
May.  Yet  it  was  mostly  a  troop  of  returning  invalids 
— some  better,  some  worse  for  the  wintering  in  the  Tro 
pics,  but  all  happy  in  the  atmosphere  of  Eden  which  en 
veloped  us,  and  hope,  probably,  sleeping  in  every  bosom 
unal armed.  The  centre  of  attraction  and  interest,  and 
certainly  the  most  brilliantly  gay  and  cheerful  in  the 
conversation  of  the  day — as  lovely  a  woman,  I  think, 
as  it  has  ever  been  my  lot  to  see — died  at  Charleston  a 
few  days  after,  struck  down  by  the  first  breath  from  the 
Northern  clime  to  which  she  was  prematurely  hasten 
ing.  She  had  been  with  us  throughout  our  voyage 
among  the  islands,  manifestly  gaining,  and,  at  Havana, 
had  made  purchases  and  preparations  for  the  summer 
with  confident  expectation  of  recovery.  Her  fate  is 
probably  that  of  many  who  are  beguiled  into  starting 
homeward  too  early  from  the  West  Indies  with  the 
Tropical  Spring.  It  is  so  hard  to  remember,  under 
such  soft  and  unchanging  skies,  how  tardily  and  reluc 
tantly  comes  the  summer  of  the  north. 

We  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  Savannah  River  at  noon 
of  the  second  day  of  May.  My  companion  and  I  were 
bound  to  the  city  of  Shade  and  Silence.  The  steamer, 
with  its  delightful  load  of  our  tropical  fellow-travellers, 
was  bound  to  Charleston.  A  small  tow-boat  was  in 
waiting  for  the  Savannah  passengers,  and  we  were 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          30T 

soon  speeding  up  the  broad  entrance  of  the  river,  look 
ing  with  strangers'  curiosity,  of  course,  upon  the 
islands  and  new  shores  around  us,  but  watching  alter 
nately,  and  with  far  more  interest,  the  lessening  track 
of  the  recedin^  vessel  we  had  left.  Few  fellow  travel- 

O 

lers  are  endeared  to  each  other  like  the  invalids  who 
have  been  idlers  together,  waiting  for  health  in  the  sense- 
entrancing  climate  of  the  tropics.  If  a  heart  were  never 
genial  before  it  would  be  genial  there.  All  around — 
people  as  well  as  trees  and  flowers — seem  bound  up 
in  the  same  spell  of  enchantment,  common  as  air,  and 
which  it  has  taken  no  trouble  to  conjure  or  compel, 
but  they  are  also  made  near  and  dear  to  each  other,  (the 
pilgrims  for  health  at  least,)  by  the  suffering  they  have 
together  forgotten,  and  the  golden  leaf  added,  unex 
pectedly,  to  life's  varied  book  by  a  season  looked  for 
ward  to  with  pain. 

Savannah  Eiver  is  a  stream  of  some  dignity,  from  the 
office  it  holds  as  a  line  between  the  two  States  of 
Georgia  and  South  Carolina;  but,  with  its  marshy 
banks  and  coffee-coloured  complexion,  it  was  rather  an 
unattractive  new  acquaintance.  Our  impressions  were, 
perhaps,  less  agreeable  from  the  sudden  change  of  the 
temperature  with  the  land  breeze  that  met  us — a  drop 
of  some  eight  degrees  of  the  thermometer  in  the  course 
of  an  hour — and  I  really  shivered  over  my  first  view  of 
rice  fields,  though,  with  their  green  surfaces,  embanked 


308          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS 

round  for  irrigation,  they  were  remarkable  likenesses  ol 
the  gooseberry  pies,  which  formed  part  of  my  early  ed 
ucation,  at  Andover,  and  which  are  among  the  warm 
est  of  my  recollections,  of  that  classic  academy.  The 
price  of  land  on  which  this  best  quality  of  rice  is  culti 
vated,  was  mentioned  to  us  so  high  as  to  be  scarcely 
credible.  Of  the  Zodiac  of  remarkable  Hotels  strung 
along  the  ecliptic  of  our  country's  travel,  the  "  Pulaski 
House  "  at  Savannah  is  the  Aries,  or  first  "  sign"  after 
passing  the  equator.  The  traveller,  on  arriving  here 
from  the  West  Indies,  (as  we  did  on  the  evening  of  the 
second  of  May,)  immediately  discovers  that  he  is  no 
longer  to  be  indebted  for  accommodation  to  the  indefi 
nite  "milky  way"  of  ordinary  public  houses.  "Mine 
host"  and  his  establishment  amount  to  a  constellation. 

And,  really,  nothing  is  more  new  and  noteworthy, 
among  the  stranger's  first  experiences  of  sojourn  upon 
American  ground,  than  the  beginning  of  this  Astral  belt, 
of  which  the  Aslor-\\ouse  of  New- York  was,  perhaps 
the  (properly  named)  first  recognised  beginning.  Seri 
ously,  however,  the  great  gregarious  principle  of  the  re 
public  is  more  exemplified,  and  more  successfully  car 
ried  out,  in  this,  than  in  any  other  of  our  institutions. 
The  individual  is  .made  comfortable  in  other  lands — but 
to  accommodate  the  supreme  Many  more  luxuriously 
than  the  isolated  and  subordinate  Individual,  was  a 
truly  American  sign  of  progress.  Its  operation  extends 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          309 

to  that  moveable  Hotel — a  steamboat.  The  "  captains 
of  steamboats"  and  the  "keepers  of  crack  Hotels"  are 
representatives  of  the  popular  will  in  this  country,  to 
whose  influence  and  position  there  is  no  counterpart 
abroad.  It  is  in  fact,  an  industrial  oligarchy.  For 
real  power  and  influence,  who  would  compare  a 
Member  of  Congress  with  one  of  them  ?  They  must 
be  superior  men  to  retain  the  "  custom"  and  (so  called) 
"  patronage"  which  is  in  their  constituency.  They  are 
so."  For  tact,  manliness,  force  of  purpose,  good  judge 
ment,  and  regulating  influence  upon  each  day's  turn 
ings  up,  they  have  not  their  betters,  as  a  class. 

Beginning  with  mine  host  of  the  Pulaski,  who  would 
cut  up  into  quite  a  committee  of  the  largest  men  in  Cuba, 
I  was  immediately  struck  with  the  contrast  between 
Havana  and  Savannah  in  the  stature  of  the  men.  A  few 
minutes  after  our  arrival  the  gong  sounded  and  the  crowd 
poured  from  all  quarters  of  the  house  to  the  Sunday  even 
ing  "  tea,"  and  the  sudden  change  in  the  average  level 
of  hands  around  me,  affected  my  comparative  conscious 
ness,  in  a  way  which,  for  a  moment,  I  was  at  a  loss  to 
understand.  I  felt  suddenly  pulled  under  like  a  cork 
with  "  a  bite."  It  is  curious  how  soon  the  general  angle 
with  which  one  looks  at  people  becomes  a  habit.  Most 
of  the  faces  I  had  met  for  a  couple  of  months  had  been 
seen  down  a  declivity  of  forty-five  degrees.  I  now 
felt  strange  at  being  obliged  to  look  off  at  my  own  hor- 


310          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

izontal  and  above  it — almost  every  man  in  the  house 
standing  six  feet  and  over,  in  his  stockings.  The 
Georgians  are  doubtless  a  tall  race — walking  rifles  to 
the  little  pistols  of  Cuba — and,  with  so  slignt  a  differ 
ence  of  latitude  and  longitude  in  the  respective  soils 
that  produce  them,  it  would,  by  the  way,  be  a  pretty 
study  of  physiology  to  inquire  into  the  reasons  of  the 
contrast. 


LETTER   No.  33. 


CAUTION      TO      INVALIDS CLIMATE       OF       SAVANNAH FIRST 

VIEW    OF    SAVANNAH     BY      MOONLIGHT CURIOUS     EFFECT 

OF      CITY      WHOLLY      BURIED       IN       TREES REMARKABLE 

STILLNESS      OF      SAVANNAH CONTRAST       BETWEEN       THIS 

CITY'S     HABITS     AND    THOSE    OF    HAVANA NO    POOR    PEO 
PLE'S    RESIDENCES EFFECTS     OF     BEAUTIES     OF     NATURE 

ON    CHARACTER,    ETC.    ETC. 

I  must  record,  for  invalids,  that  it  was  cool  at  Sa 
vannah — cool  enough  for  an  invalid's  great  coat — on 
the  evening  of  May  the  second.  I  had  hoped  better 
things  of  it.  An  old  gentleman,  to  whom  I  sat  next  at 
the  tea-table,  said  it  was  too  cool  for  his  daughter  to 
leave  her  room.  He  was  on  his  way  with  her  to  some 
more  thermal  resort  in  Florida,  of  wilich  I  have  forgot 
ten  the  name.  A  pale  lady  in  blanket  shawl  sat  oppo 
site  me.  A  summery  and  healing  association  comes  up 
usually  with  the  mention  of  Savannah,  the  name  being 


312          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

descriptive  of  a  perennial  feature  of  Southern  scenery  j 
and  doubtless  the  general  average  of  its  temperature 
deserves  it.  Its  caprices  should  be  guarded  against} 
however.  It  has  long  been  the  first  refuge  of  the 
alarmed  consumptive,  and  its  histoiy,  truly  written, 
would  probably  be  that  of  a  "  Bridge  of  Sighs,"  by 
which  many  had  returned  to  health,  and  as  many  had 
passed  on  to  remediless  confirmation  of  disease. 

The  bed-room  candle,  offered  me  by  Prudence  after 
tea,  was  outvoted  by  a  brilliant  moon  out  of  doors — (a 
"  tie-vote,"  of  course,  on  the  republican  principle,  but 
the  individual  moon,  to  my  thinking,  being  a  majority 
over  the  individual  candle) — and  I  started  to  get  a 
first  view  of  Savannah  while  she  was  probably  looking 
her  best.  It  was  indeed  a  glorious  night.  And  a  more 
singular  scene,  than  that  city  first  seen  by  moonlight,  is 
not  likely  to  fall  often  in  the  traveller's  way.  It  is  laid 
out  curiously,  as  the  Guide-book  tells — its  plan  a  che 
quer-board,  and  every  other  square  a  park — but  the 
streets,  besides,  being  lined  with  trees,  and  avenues  be 
ing  planted  through  the  centre  of  the  principal  ones, 
the  leaves  form  a  complete  ceiling  overhead,  and  no 
two  stars  are  visible  at  a  time,  I  should  say,  from  any 
side-walk  or  thoroughfare  in  the  entire  municipality.  I 
have  sometimes  felt,  in  the  woods,  a  desire  to  climb  up 
some  tall  tree  and  see  out — and  the  same  feeling  comes 
over  one,  after  a  while,  in  walking  along  miles  of  a 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          313 

closely-chequered  carpet  of  light  and  shade,  with  a  roof 
as  closely-chequered  and  interminable  above.  It  oc 
curred  to  me  whether  we  might  not  leave  out  the  sky 
a  little  too  much,  occasionally,  in  our  improvements 
and  beautifyings. 

Whether  these  overshadowing  trees  act  on  the  city 
like  the  outspread  hand  with  which  a  mother  says 
"hush"  to  her  children,  is  open  to  supposition;  but, 
that  some  peculiarly  quietizing  influence  is  exercised  on 
the  habits  and  character  of  the  inhabitants,  must  be  the 
stranger's  invariable  impression, — though  he  might 
balance  between  this  explanation  of  it,  and  the  town's 
growing  considerate,  even  in  the  shutting  of  doors, 
from  its  long  use  as  a  Mecca  of  invalids.  So  still  a 
place,  it  seemed  to  me,  I  had  never  been  in  before. 
Constantinople,  with  no  wheels  in  its  streets,  and  Ve 
nice,  with  its  silent-gliding  gondolas,  are  noisy  to  Sa 
vannah.  It  is  true  that  the  deep  sand  of  every  tho 
roughfare  makes  carts  and  carriages  unheard,  and  the 
profusion  of  leaves  may  so  tnicken  the  air  as  to  deaden 
the  common  reverberations — but  there  is  a  stillness 
more  deep  and  universal  than  can  thus  obviously  be 
accounted  for.  I  was  there  three  Sundays — (week 
days  behaving  themselves  like  Sundays,  that  is  to  say) 
— and  the  hush  of  this  first  evening,  which  I  was  in 
clined  to  attribute  partly  to  strict  observance  of  the 

Sabbath,  was,  I  afterwards  found,  the  perpetual  habit 
14* 


314          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

of  the  people.  In  my  two  hours'  ramble,  I  passed 
through  whole  streets  without  meeting  a  soul.  I  scarce 
saw  ten  persons  altogether,  in  the  two  hours.  Thinking 
the  homes  should  be  livelier,  for  the  life  not  stirring 
abroad,  I  looked  for  open  windows  and  lighted  rooms— 
but  a  sign,  even  of  a  single  lamp  "in  the  front  apartments 
of  houses,  was  strangely  rare.  There  was  everywhere 
the  shut-up  look  of  families  absent.  For  long  distances 
I  saw  nothing  to  disturb  the  idea  forcibly  suggested 
by  the  excessive  foliage  and  the  loneliness  and  stillness 
— that  it  was  a  silent  city,  deserted  but  undecayed, 
which  the  growth  of  a  luxuriant  wilderness  had  over 
taken  and  buried. 

It  is  curious  that  it  should  be  but  "  across  a  ferry," 
as  it  were,  from  Havana,  the  most  out-doors-y  city  in 
the  wrorld,  to  Savannah,  the  most  m-doors-y.  It  cannot 
be  altogether  a  matter  of  principle,  though  Savannah  is 
said  to  be  the  most  religious  of  towns,  and  Havana — 
(where  I  heard  the  military  band  play  polkas  as  part  of 
the  Sabbath  service) — is  perhaps  as  peculiarly  irreli 
gious.  Nor  can  it  be  altogether  a  peculiarity  of  race 
— though  the  Havanese  would  seem  to  play  the  sun-fish 
as  naturally  as  the  Savannese  play  the  oyster.  There 
is  a,  fashion — which  is  a  part  of  the  character  of  a  town 
differing  in  different  places  to  a  degree  which  is  not 
easily  explainable — in  the  amount  of  appearing  abroad, 
("  gadding  "  as  the  strait-laced  call  it,)  which  is  respect- 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          315 

able  and  proper.  The  subject  might  profitably  be  lec 
tured  upon.  Inestimable  as  the  fireside  virtues  are,  do 
mestic  bliss  requires  a  certain  amount  of  airing,  "  in  the 
best  regulated  families,"  and  the  natural  desire  u  to  see 
and  be  seen,'1  has  its  use  in  the  composition  of  human 
society. 

With  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  Savannah  appears 
to  have  no  poor  people.  In  various  rambles,  during 
the  few  days  of  my  stay  there,  I  could  find  no  quarter 
of  the  city  where  there  were  any  but  comfortable  dwel 
lings — more  than  comfortable,  indeed,  for  the  poorest 
inhabitant  has  an  avenue  of  shade-trees  before  his  door, 
and  must  see  an  open  square  from  his  window.  The 
luxuries  of  park  culture,  which  the  noblemen  of  Eng 
land  spend  fortunes  in  maintaining  around  their  dwel- 
ings,  are  here  at  the  humblest  man's  threshold,  free  of 
cost.  No  child  can  grow  up  in  Savannah  without  Na 
ture  for  a  nurse — beautiful  trees  for  the  infant  waking- 
dream  to  build  its  nest  in — velvet  grass,  clover  and  but 
tercups,  to  make  the  world  seem  like  a  playground,  and 
the  commonest  highway  a  path  of  flowers.  Does  any 
one  think  that  character  is  not  affected  by  such  influ 
ence — that  hope  and  imagination,  confidence  and  cheer 
ful  habit  of  temper,  (to  say  nothing  of  health,)  are  not 
nurtured  by  such  surroundings  in  childhood  ?  They 
make  impressions  too  vivid,  and  too  universal  not  to 
have  been  intended  by  an  all-wise  Providence  as  a 


816       HEALTH'TRIP   TO    THE   TROPICS. 

blessing  to  improve.  Schools  should  be  where  there 
are  trees,  streams,  mountains — teachers  for  the  play 
hours  as  well.  If  I  may  strengthen  my  remark  by  re 
calling  what  made  an  impression  on  myself,  I  have  for 
gotten  every  circumstance  of  a  year  or  two  that  I  was 
at  school  at  Concord,  New  Hampshire,  when  a  boy, 
except  the  natural  scener}?-  of  the  place.  The  faces  of 
my  teacher  and  my  playmates  have  long  ago  faded 
from  my  memory,  while  I  remember  the  rocks  and  ed 
dies  of  the  Merrimac,  the  forms  of  the  trees  on  the  mea 
dow  opposite  the  town,  and  every  bend  of  the  river's 
current.  "Whether  Governor  Oglethorpe,  in  laying  out 
the  city  of  Savannah,  thought  of  more  than  the  health 
and  luxury  in  parks  and  shade-trees,  it  is  too  late,  per 
haps,  to  inquire — but,  to  his  beautifully  rural  plan, 
and  energy  of  forecast  in  the  completion  of  it,  the  inha 
bitants  are  indebted,  I  believe,  for  a  perpetual  teaching 
of  moral  beauty,  no  less  than  for  a  sanitary  luxury. 


LETTER    NQ.84. 


WANT  OF  BROADWAY  IN  SAVANNAH QUERY  AS  TO  SHOP 
PING  AND  ITS  ATTENDANT  USES THE  UNFURNISHED  APART 
MENTS  OF  THIS  WORLD CURIOUS  SECOND-HAND  MACHINERY 

ON  ROOF  OF  PUBLIC    BUILDING SEEING    TWELVE    O'CLOCK 

STRUCK SAVANNAH       CEMETRY       STRANGELY       PECULIAR 

AND    BEAUTIFUL,    ETC.,    ETC. 

SAVANNAH  has  the  peculiarity  of  being  remarkably 
"  retired"  all  over.  It  has  no  one  thoroughfare  that  is 
particularly  frequented — no  "  dress"  street,  so  to  speak, 
devoted  to  shopping,  driving  and  lounging — no  avenue 
which  should  perform  for  it  the  vertebral  function  of  a 
Broadway.  At  every  second  corner — walk  which  way 
you  will — you  come  to  an  open  square ;  and  it  was  pro 
bably  from  this  peculiarity  of  the  city  plan  that  no 
one  length  of  street  was,  at  first,  devoted  to  shops — a 
peculiarity  that  would  have  been  corrected  in  the  sub- 


318         HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

sequent  growth  of  the  city,  perhaps,  but  for  the  tortoise- 
like  repugnance  to  putting  the  head  out  of  doors  which 
seems  to  be  universal  to  its  inhabitants.  There  are 
very  handsome  shops  scattered  here  and  there,  but,  for 
the  three  or  four  days  that  I  was  rambling  about,  at 
all  hours,  I  saw  no  one  "  shopping,"  no  sign  of  anybody 
lounging  or  walking  for  pleasure,  no  preference  shown 
by  any  two  people  for  the  same  promenade.  This  seemed 
to  me  singular.  In  every  other  large  city  that  I  have 
seen,  there  is  a  popular  shopping-street,  which  is  not 
altogether  a  matter  of  "  dry  goods."  It  appears  to  be 
a  common  want — to  common  minds  at  least — all  over 
the  world  except  at  Savannah — to  go  out  and  be  pro 
miscuous  once  a  day ;  and  indeed,  so  often  do  superior 
minds  find  it  relaxing  to  take  the  air  where"  they  can 
unobservedly  dilute  the  individual,  that  a  fashionable 
promenade  may  be  set  down  as  one  of  the  general 
human  necessities.  How  the  commercial  capital  of 
genial  warm-hearted  Georgia  comes  to  be  an  exception 
— by  what  local  influence  the  great  principle  of  love 
for  shopping  and  its  accompaniments  has  been  over 
ruled  and  subdued  in  almost  the  same  climate  which 
makes  it  rampant  at  Havana — it  would  be  interesting 
to  know. 

"With  a  friend  who  was  showing  us.  the  wharf  portion 
of  the  city,  stores,  warehouses,  etc.,  my  companion  and 
I  mounted  to  the  top  of  the  Exchange,  to  get  a  look 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          319 

over  the  river  into  South  Carolina.  It  was  too  cold 
(May  4)  to  stand  out  upon  the  roof  long  at  a  time ;  but; 
from  the  broken-windowed  cupola,  we  got  a  far  glimpse 
of  fields  under  flood  for  irrigation,  and  a  flat  country  dili 
gently  cultivated.  The  horizon  looked  dispiritingly  low. 
It  must  be  one  of  the  advantages  of  the  town's  roof  of 
leaves,  that  it  prevents  the  inhabitant  from  being  re- 
minded  that  there  are  no  mountains  visible — a  lack  of 
an  apparent  ladder  to  the  sky  which  the  fancy  feels, 
even  if  the  faith  of  the  believer  works  just  as  well 
without  it.  Moutains  are  privileges,  refuges,  blessings, 
Ararats  whereon  the  dove  of  thought  may  alight  when 
weary  of  the  deluge  around.  An  horizon  without  one 
is  an  unfurnished  apartment  of  the  planet  we  live  in. 

"While  my  companions  were  studying  the  commercial 
physiognomy  of  Savannah,  from  the  more  exposed  out 
side  of  the  roof,  I  had  taken  refuge  among  the  whittled 
autobiographies  on  the  inside  of  the 'wooden  cupola — a, 
well  jack-knifed  list  of  fellow  citizens  impatient  to  be 
read  of — and  by  such  reading  and  admiring  as  lay  in 
my  power,  was  duly  paying  my  share  for  republican 
equality  of  reputation,  thus  laid  before  the  public,  when 
my  eye  fell  upon  an  apparatus  curiously  composed. 
Pointing  towards  the  city  bell  which  hung  outside,  was 
what  seemed  to  be  the  battered  half  of  an  old  scythe, 
punctured  at  one  end  to  receive  a  wire  which  descended 


320         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  passed  through  the  roof,  and,  at  the  other  end,  sus 
taining  a  rough  lump  of  lead.  Half  wondering  how 
the  owner  of  that  building  (our  Glorious  Country) 
could  come  by  a  second-hand  tool,  and  at  the  economy 
of  the  arrangement,  altogether,  for  furniture  ordered  by 
the  metropolis;  and  half  musing  whether  (poetry  at  its 
present  discount)  it  were  not,  on  the  whole,  a  truthful 
representation  of  the  decline  of  respect  for  any  such 
flummery  as  "  the  scythe  of  Father  Time,"  I  was 
startled  by  a  slight  rattle  at  one  end  of  the  rusty  object 
of  my  contemplation.  The  wire  quivered,  and  the 
scythe- blade  began  slowly  to  arise.  Up  it  went,  grad 
ually  and  silently,  to  the  height  of  a  schoolmaster's 
forefinger — my  slow  wits  not  anticipating  what  was  to 
come  of  its  admonitory  attitude — when,  suddenly, 
crushingly,  astoundingly,  down  went  the  uplifted  lead- 
weight  upon  the  bell !  I  stayed  in  my  boots — neither 
pumped  out  nor  left  'in  a  precipitate  at  the  bottom — but 
the  air  which  started  at  that  sound  to  carry  "  the  time 
of  day"  to  twenty  thousand  people's  ears  in  a  second, 
seemed  unwilling  to  first  stop  and  be  breathed.  I  fairly 
gasped — but  the  old  scythe  was,  by  this  time,  on  its 
way  up  again; — another  thunderbolt ! — and  another — • 
and  another — twelve  merciless  iterations  !  And  this 
only  a  common-place  noon  !  What  a  difference  propin 
quity  makes,  in  the  appreciation  of  things  !  To  listen 
while  the  clock  strikes  twelve  scarce  quickens  a  pulse. 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          321 

ordinarily — but  to  be  close  by  twelve  when  the  clock 
strikes  it,  is  quite  another  experience.  I  felt  as  if  I 
had  taken  a  common  instant,  and  gone  where  the  arti 
cle  was  manufactured.  The  strokes  of  a.  clock  seem  to 
follow  rapidly,  as  we  hear  them  while  reading  a  book- 
yet,  to  watch  the  hammer  as  it  rises  and  descends,  and 
be  yourself  a  quivering  part  of  the  first  and  nearest 
vibration,  is  to  feel  that  there  may  be  eternities  in  se 
conds.  We  measure  rays  of  light  across  the  thread, 
when  we  measure  life  by  minutes  or  years. 

The  strange  cemetery  at  Savannah,  with  the  trees 
hung  in  mourning,  is  described  in  every  traveller's 
journal.  My  companion  and  I  drove  to  it,  (four  or 
five  miles  out  of  the  city,)  with  the  feeling  of  familiarity 
with  which  one  makes  a  first  visit  to  Pere-la-chaise. 
But,  often  as  I  had  read  descriptions  of  this  remarkable 
spot,  its  peculiar  character  took  me  entirely  by  surprise. 
It  is  the  perfection  of  that  to  which  England  and  our 
country  have,  of  late,  become  fully  awakened,  as  a  fea 
ture  of  national  taste — places  of  repose  for  the  dead.  Yet 
it  owes  little  to  Art.  Nature  has  outdone  even  the 
builders  of  the  famous  cemetery  at  Pisa,  with  their 
costly  enclosure  of  cloisters  for  reverie,  and  their  fifty 
ship-loads  of  earth  brought  from  Jerusalem.  The  Sa 
vannah  cemetery,  as  the  reader  knows,  is  a  wood  of 
majestic  trees  clad  with  a  plant  peculiar  to  the  moist 
and  warm  savannas  of  this  latitude — a  pendant  moss,  or 


322         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

tree-fern,  dropping  from  every  branch  in  long  and 
graceful  folds,  and  of  a  sad-colored  grey.  The  silk,  in 
common  use  for  half-mourning,  is  about  of  the  same 
tint.  "With  the  luxuriant  green  of  the  foliage  on  every 
tree  tenderly  subdued  by  the  profuse  folds  of  this  som 
bre  drapery,  and  even  the  ordinarily  softened  light  of  a 
thick  wood  darkened  to  perpetual  twilight  by  the  same 
curtaining,  there  is  an  atmosphere  of  irresistible  pen- 
siveness  and  melancholy  throughout  its  wilderness  of 
majestic  columns,  which  no  architecture  could  imitate 
— or  contrive. 

A  day  in  such  a  place  is  one  of  those  poems  for  one's 
own  heart  only,  with  which  the  world  is  not  willing  to 
be  troubled — but,  of  one  leading  impression,  made  on 
my  own  mind  while  there,  I  will  venture  to  make  a 
record. 

The  graves,  (which  seemed  few,  perhaps,  from  their 
being  no  apparent  limit  to  the  long  aisles  of  tree-trunks 
which  retreated  away  in  shadowy  vistas  on  every  side) 
were  so  secondary  to  the  overpowering  spirit  of  the  spot, 
that  I  scarce  looked  at  a  name  or  read  an  epitaph.  I 
remember  but  one — that  of  a  father  and  his  daughter — 
and  my  attention  was  drawn  to  this,  probably,  by  the 
chain  which  fenced  in  the  tomb,  and  which  was  over 
grown  by  the  same  mourning  drapery  of  moss  which 
enveloped  the  trees.  I  had  no  friend  buried  there — or, 
of  course,  affection  would  have  led  m®  to  look  for  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          323 

sod  that  covered  him.  But  there  was  no  object  con 
spicuous  enough  to  arrest  the  curiosity  of  the  stranger 
— nothing  to  call  aside  the  footstep,  or  call  off  the  mind 
of  the  visitor  from  the  influence  of  gentle  sadness  press 
ed  upon  his  own  memories  of  the  dead.  The  spell  of 
the  place — less  powerful  only  than  the  grief  which 
should  come  there  to  find  what  itself  had  lost — was  of 
hallowed  power  and  predominance.  Are  there  not 
those  who,  with  me,  will  see  a  beauty  in  this  ? 

Of  any  privacy  in  the  memory  of  the  dead,  our  fash 
ionable  cemeteries  seem  to  give  no  sign.  The  beloved 
one,  who  was,  in  life,  so  guarded  about  with'  delicacy 
and  protection — her  home  shut  in  from  the  footfall  of 
^common  approach,  and  the  door  of  her  chamber  of 
nightly  rest  kept  high  and  far  out  of  profaning  sight,  by 
triple  locks  and  life-blood  ready  to  come  between  it  and 
intrusion — this  beloved  one  is  laid  and  left  in  a  thronged 
avenue  of  resort,  her  last  home  marked  by  a  fancy  mo 
nument  which  asks  the  vulgar  to  stand  over  her  and 
admire  it,  and  her  sweet  maiden  name  written  in  glaring 
letters  on  the  door,  for  every  ruffian's  lips  to  spell  out 
with  his  coarse  utterance,  and  desecrate  with  his  scrawl 
or  comment.  For  a  world  where  Hell  and  Heaven 
walk  at  large  together,  and  where  the  instincts  of  com 
mon  safety  have  combined  in  usages  to  guard  some 
what  the  paths  of  the  angels  among  us  while  they  live, 


324         HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

it  seems  as  if  there  should  be  some  privacy,  as  well,  for 
the  ashes  and  memory  of  the  departed. 

Monuments  to  great  men  may  reasonably  be  con 
spicuous  to  every  eye.  They  are  needed  for  example, 
and  public  gratitude  raises  them.  But  privacy  is  more 
blest,  even  in  life  ;  and  the  luxury  of  the  grave  (and  the 
spirit  of  this  might  well  be  remembered  in  private  monu 
ments)  is  to  be  forgotten  but  by  those  who  loved  ^^s.  This 
home  of  the  dead  at  Savannah,  so  more  sublime  and 
sadly  beautiful  in  itself,  seems  to  offer  the  repose  thus 
wanted.  Hate  and  Indifference  would  here  walk  by, 
unreminded  of  even  the  name.  Malice  and  Coarseness 
would  see  no  call  for  idle  criticism,  and,  in  the  spirit 
of  the  spot,  would  feel  a  restraint,  unaware.  Affection 
would  find  the  corner  where  oneV  ashes  slumber  in 
peace,  and  to  the  tears  or  sweet  memories  which  alone 
should  visit  them,  the  very  air  would  seem  to  give  a 
sigh  of  welcome.  So  fitting  and  sweet  a  place  to  be 
buried  in,  it  seems  to  me  I  never  elsewhere  saw. 


LETTER    No,  B§. 


SAVANNAH,  &c. 

THE  sensation  of  driving,  through  the  streets  of 
Savannah,  ordinarily,  is  not  very  pleasant.  One  hates 
to  throw  away  so  much  ploughing.  The  action  of  a 
beautiful  horse  is  quite  destroyed  by  the  dead  pull  of 
the  sinking  wheels  and  the  effort  of  wading  fetlock-deep 
through  the  sand.  But  it  is  wonderful  what  a  difference 
in  the  get-about-ableness  is  made  by  a  heavy  shower. 
The  city  seems  suddenly  paved  with  marble.  Packed 
with  the  rain,  the  sand  is  so  hard  as  scarce  to  take  an 
impression  of  a  wheel,  and,  for  half-a-day  at  a  time,  a 
carriage  at  Savannah  may  thus  become  a  luxury — dried 
into  a  mere  necessity,  again,  of  course,  by  the  second 
day  of  fair  weather.  Nature  has  supplied  a  con- 


326          HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

venience  for  travelling  over  sand — the  camel's  foot, 
elastic  and  flattening  out  with  pressure.  If  I  were  a 
resident  of  Savannah,  I  think  I  should  either  import  a 
small  dromedary,  "  to  drive  in  a  buggy,"  or  offer  a 
premium  for  the  invention  of  an  India-rubber  horse-shoe, 
on  the  camel's  foot  principle.  The  article  would  be 
saleable  in  New  Jersey  and  other  sandy  neighbour 
hoods  as  well. 

Savannah  is  a  place  to  go  to  and  be  good  in.  I  saw 
but  one  sinful  circumstance  while  there — a  small  shop 
open  on  Sunday  evening,  for  the  sale  of  segars  and  um 
brellas — everything  else  looking  unexceptionably  exem 
plary.  The  world  has  not  been  sufficiently  praised  for 
the  variety  in  the  character  of  its  cities.  It  will  be  ap 
preciated  when  railroads  have  dissolved  the  charm  by 
abolishing  the  distance  that  secured  to  each  its  separate 
atmosphere.  There  are  states  of  mind  very  varied 
which  require  changes  of  scene  quite  as  varied.  Of 
the  winter  pilgrims  to  the  South,  it  is  happier  that  there 
is  a  Savannah  for  some  and  a  New  Orleans  for  others. 
As  a  Vallombrosa  of  retreat  for  the  intermittent  student 
— for  one  who  would  like  to  stop  living  and  being  heard 
of,  long  enough  to  write  a  book  or  perfect  a  theory — • 
Savannah  is  the  one  best  place,  ready-cloistered  and 
hushed. 

With  a  presentiment  (afterwards  confirmed,)  that,  by 
going  too  early  north,  I  was  leaving  what  little  conva- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          327 

lescence  I  had  picked  up  in  a  warmer  clime,  I  em- 
harked  for  Charleston  on  the  evening  of  the  5th  of  May 
— arriving  the  next  morning,  after  a  rough,  cold  and 
thoroughly  uncomfortable  passage.  Quite  prostrated 
by  sea-sickness  and  influenza,  and  having  more  desired 
to  see  Charleston  than  any  other  one  point  of  my  win 
ter's  travel,  I  had  never  found  illness  more  untimely. 
We  rejoined,  here,  some  of  our  fellow-voyagers  in  the 
Tropics,  but  the  most  admired  and  beloved  of  that  hap 
py  company  lay  dying  under  the  same  roof  with  us,  and 
a  melancholy  sadness  weighed  upon  all  who  had 
known  her.  Altogether,  I  obtained  but  an  imperfect 
and  clouded  view  of  the  great  metropolis  of  the  South. 
My  best  remembrances  of  it  were  such  as  do  not  come 
within  a  traveller's  chronicle — the  meeting  with  valued 
friends  and  acquaintances.  It  must  pass  for  the  broken 
page  of  my  journal — to  be  re-written,  if  possible,  with 
better  knowledge  hereafter. 

In  what  little  I  saw  of  Charleston,  in  my  mopings 
about,  I  was  impressed  with  the  air  it  wears  of  a  town 
built  for  gentlemen.  It  is  a  little  behind-hand  with 
paint  and  repairs,  but,  in  the  contrivance  and  character 
of  its  private  residences,  there  is  the  original  imprint, 
still  legible,  of  first  owners  who  built  exclusively,  each 
one,  for  taste  and  comfort  of  his  own.  There  is  none 
of  the  amputated  look  given  to  city  buildings  by  the 


328          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

more  utilitarian  taste  of  the  North.  Even  in  houses  of 
very  moderate  pretensions,  it  was  quite  evident  that 
the  plan  had  not  been  sent  back  to  the  architect,  shaved 
of  all  its  superfluities  of  elegance  merely.  In  the  bay 
windows,  verandahs,  odd  angles,  porticoes  and  gardens, 
and  in  the  unstereotyped  variety  with  which  the  ca 
prices  of  ornament  had  been  combined,  the  look  of  re 
finement  quite  at  its  ease,  and  apprehensive  of  neither 
eclipse  nor  criticism,  is  very  manifest.  Every  house 
looks  as  if  the  same  family  had  always  lived  in  it. 
"Without  strict  architectural  taste,  this  atmosphere  of 
household  gods  may  be  made  to  envelope  a  home  with 
an  individuality  more  attaching  to  children,  and  more 
inspiring  of  respect ;  and  I  must  own  that,  to  my  eye, 
it  is  an  innovation  upon  art  worth  studying. 

In  the  days  when  North  and  South  were  more  inti 
mate — the  gay  society  of  the  two  latitudes  holding  an 
equally  divided  empire  over  Ballston  and  Saratoga — 
Charleston  was  the  unquestionable  Corinth,  from  which 
came  the  best  models  of  gentlemen  and  ladies.  With 
the  plantation  conservatism  of  family — custom  of  send 
ing  sons  to  Europe  for  education — general  habit  of 
yearly  travel,  and  prevailing  tone  of  courtesy  and  chi 
valry  handed  down  from  a  superior  class  of  first  inhab 
itants — this  may  easily  be  accounted  for.  The  mark 
of  it  would  still  impress  a  stranger  in  walking  the 


HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE      TROPICS.          329 

streets  of  Charleston,  or  lookiog  in  upon  its  society. 
Shouldered  aside  as  the  city  is,  somewhat,  perhaps,  by 
the  current  of  "  Progress,"  and  becalmed  in  the  still 
water  of  such  respectability  and  dignity  as  this  "  fast" 
age  will  leave  behind,  its  gayeties  probably  assemble, 
at  the  present  time,  a  higher-bred  class  of  men  and  wo 
men  than  any  other  capital  of  our  country.  The  epi 
demic  rage,  for  action  and  contact  with  the  world, 
which  is  setting  the  noblemen  of  England  to  lecturing, 
will  soon  reach  here,  doubtless,  and  lively-fy  Charles 
ton  up  to  the  dreg-stirring  activity  of  New  York ;  but, 
meantime,  its  streets  are  walked  by  gentlemen  who 
look  tranquilly  noble,  and  its  drives  are  graced  by  la 
dies  who  sit  in  their  carriages  with  the  air  of  prin 
cesses  at  leisure. 

There  is  a  childish  disappointment,  (which  I  do  not 
find  that  I  outgrow,)  in  the  first  visit  to  most  large  cap 
itals.  Until  one  sees  a  famous  place,  its  great  men 
form  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  ideal  picture  of  it.  A 
boy,  in  going  for  the  first  time  to  Boston,  for  instance, 
would  feel  an  unexplainable  disappointment  not  to  see 
Webster  with  at  least  a  dome  and  cupola ;  Prescott 
with  a  Gothic  arch  to  him  ;  Emerson  with  a  steeple, 
and  Everett  with  a  colonnade  all  round — or  some 
equally  tangible,  visible  and  imposingly  architectural 
proof  that  this  is  the  Boston  of  which,  as  seen  from 


330          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

a  distance,  those  men  compose  so  large  a  part.  1 
had  always  thought  of  Charleston,  South  Carolina, 
as  a  city  built  not  so  much  of  brick  as  of  Calhoun 
— not  so  beautiful  for  its  public  walks  as  for  its 
Washington  Allston.  To  arrive  there,  and  walk 
through  it,  and  drive  round  it,  without  seeing  any 
thing  of  them — no  sign  of  the  statesman  and  painter 
who  would  still  show  for  Charleston,  though  the  city 
were  sunk  by  an  earthquake — was  to  find  it  "less  of 
a  place"  than  I  had  expected — to  take  out  the  glory 
and  put  in  brick.  It  is  to  this  feeling  (among  others,) 
that  cities  owe  monuments  for  its  great  men.  Willing 
to  pay  for  gas,  they  should  be  willing  to  pay  also 
for  the  "  nebulous  aurora  "  of  genius  which,  shining 
from  there,  lights  them  up  so  that  they  are  seen  the 
world  over. 

The  Dutch  have  an  invention  for  helping  a  vessel 
when  she  is  aground— placing  buoyant  floats  on  each 
side  of  her,  sinking  them  till  they  can  run  a  timber 
through,  and  then  removing  the  weight  so  that  all 
rises  together.  Corroborative  quotation  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  do  a  similar  service,  and  bring  a  wri 
ter  safely  into  port.  In  the  present  state  of  low  water 
in  the  river  of  poetry,  I  have  probably  run  aground  in 
the  passage  just  written — and  will,  therefore,  make 
euro  of  a  buoyant  conclusion,  by  applying  a  float  or 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          331 

two  in  the  way  of  confirmatory  remarks  by  greater 
authors,  on  the  same  subject : — 

"  FONTENELLE  was  never  more  gratified  than  when 
a  Swede,  arriving  at  the  gates  of  Paris,  inquired  of  the 
custom-house  officer  where  Fontenelle  resided,  and  ex 
pressed  his  indignation  that  not  one  of  them  had  ever 
heard  of  his  name." 

"  A  distinguished  man,  in  a  eulogy  on  Liebnitz,  said, 
"  The  Elector  of  Hanover  milted  under  his  dominion  an 
Electorate,  the  three  kingdoms  of  Great  Britain,  and 
LIEBNITZ  and  NEWTON." 

"  SPINOSA,  when  he  gained  a  humble  livelihood  by 
grinding  optical  glasses,  was  visited  by  the  first  General 
in  Europe,  who,  for  the  sake  of  this  philosophical  con 
ference,  suspended  the  march  of  the  army." 

"  A  solemn  funeral  honoured  the  remains  of  the  poet 
KLOPSTOCK,  led  by  the  Senate  of  Hamburg,  with  fifty 
thousand  votaries,  so  penetrated  by  one  universal  senti 
ment,  that  this  multitude  preserved  a  mournful  silence, 
and  the  interference  of  the  police  ceased  to  be  necessa 
ry  through  the  city,  at  the  solemn  burial  of  the  man  of 
genius." 

"  In  Ferrara,  the  small  house  which  ARIOSTO  built 
was  purchased,  to  be  preserved,  by  the  municipality, 
and  there  they  still  show  the  poet's  study ;  and,  under 
his  bust,  a  simple  but  affecting  tribute  to  genius  records 
that  Ludivoco  Ariostoin  this  apartment  wrote.'1'' 


332         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS, 

"  Travellers  never  fail  to  mention  ERASMUS  when  the 
city  of  Basle  occupies  their  recollection — so  that,  as 
Bayle  remarks,  l  he  rendered  the  place  of  his  death  as 
celebrated  as  that  of  his  birth.'  " 

"  The  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany  became  jealous  of  the 
attention  paid  to  MAGLIABECCHI,  as  strangers  usually 
went  to  visit  Magliabecchi  before  the  Grand  Duke." 

"  We  cannot  bury  the  fame  of  our  English  worthies 
— that  exists  before  us,  independent  of  ourselves  ;  but 
we  bury  the  influence  of  their  inspiring  presence  in  those 
immortal  memorials  of  genius  easy  to  be  read  by  all 
men — their  statues  and  their  busts,  consigning  them  to 
spots  seldom  visited,  and  often  too  obscure  to  be  viewed" 


LETTER    No, 36, 


BLOOD-HORSES  .  IN     CHARLESTON RESPECTFUL    MANNERS    OP 

NEGROES SLOW       PACE       OF       INHABITANTS PINE-PLANK 

DRIVE RAIL-ROAD     ACROSS     PINE-BARRENS PRAIRIE     OF 

POND-LILIES SOUTH      CAROLINA     MARKED     CHARACTER 

SAVANNAH     RIVER    AND     ARRIVAL    IN    GEORGIA AUGUSTA 

AND       ITS       GENERAL      PHYSIOGNOMY— NORTHERN      AIR 

CURIOUS  SPECIMEN  OF  MASTER  IN  SHIRT-SLEEVES  AND 
NEGRO  CARRYING  HIS  COAT UNAPPROPRIATED  MAG 
NIFICENCE THE  GEORGIA  "  CRACKER." 

There  is  an  air  of  style  given  to  Charleston  by  the 
prevalence  of  blood  horses — almost  every  vehicle  I  saw, 
public  and  private,  telling  thus  of  the  universality  to 
which  had  prevailed  the  sporting  tastes  of  the  gentlemen 
of  Carolina.  The  particularly  respectful  and  at  the 
same  time  half-affectionate  manners  of  all  the  blacks  who 
came  in  my  way,  told  also  a  story  of  the  past  character 
of  the  city,  confirming  the  impression  of  old  family 


334          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

conservatism  for  which  it  is  famous.  I  am  inclined  to 
read  a  third  historic  chronicle  in  the  average  speed  of 
promenade  on  the  sidewalk  here,  which  is  considerably 
slower  than  on  the  pave  of  any  other  American  city. 
I  was  quite  impressed  with  this  last  phenomenon.  A 
passage  to  Charleston  from  New  York  to  see  the 
let-alone  magnolias,  the  looks  of  leisure,  and  a  few 
things  taking  their  time  as  if  eternity  were  really  still  on 
hand,  might  be  rationally  established,  I  think,  among 
the  pilgrimages  of  refined  curiosity,  on  our  very  fast  side 
of  the  water. 

The  inhabitants  have  a  luxury  here,  cheap  in  a  pine- 
timber  country,  but  the  enjoyment  of  which  is  very  far 
beyond  any  cost,  with  so  sandy  a  soil  and  so  warm  a 
climate — a  plank  road,  'forming  a  drive  of  some  miles 
out  of  the  city.  An  excursion  upon  it,  under  very  lovely 
guidance,  was  one  of  the  bright  lines  in  my  companion's 
and  my  own  chronicle  of  Southern  travel.  We  saw, 
here  and  there,  upon  the  road  side,  one  of  those  moss- 
draped  trees  which  form  so  beautiful  a  feature  of  the 
cemetry  at  Savannah — though,  without  the  associations 
which  there  give  a  melancholy  character  to  this  pendant 
drapery,  it  has  a  perversely  different  expression.  So 
raggedly  apparelled  and  standing  in  the  dust  by  the 
side  of  a  common  road,  the  "  monarch  of  the  woods'' 
looks  ludicrously  Don-Cesar-de-Bazan-ish. 

"We  left  Charleston  on  the  morning  of  May  8th,  and 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO      THE     TROPICS.  335 

travelled  across  a  couple  of  States,  with  fewer  "  expe 
riences,"  it  seemed  to  me,  than  I  ever  before  found  in 
the  same  amount  of  longitude.  It  was  partly  the  mode 
of  travel,  no  doubt.  Railroads  seem  only  to  erase  dis 
tance — stage-coaches  used  to  punctuate,  emphasize  and 
make  it  intelligible.  But  some  part  of  the  monotony  of 
our  traverse  of  South  Carolina  was  due  to  its  pine-bar 
rens,  no  doubt — a  class  of  landscape  where  Nature 
does  not  seem  to  be  turning  the  elements  to  ordinary 
account.  One  sees  neither  vegetation  nor  inhabitants. 
At  a  cross-road,  I  remember,  we  saw  a  quadruple  wag 
gon-team  almost  becalmed  amid  the  sand,  with  a  sleepy 
looking  negro  on  the  nigh  wheel  horse ;  and  at  a  desert 
station,  from  which  several  sand-tracks  branched  away, 
there  was  a  private  carriage  waiting  for  one  of  our  fel 
low  passengers;  but,  of  the  remainder  of  the  great 
State  that  has  such  a  will  of  its  own,  I  remember  no 
thing  but  one  prairie  of  pond  lilies  and  meals  with  wil 
dernesses  between.  Perhaps  the  influence  this  kind 
of  native  soil  might  have  on  a  mind  that  would  thrive 
by  being  turned  in  upon  itself,  may  account  for  the 
marked  character  of  which  this  State  seems  to  be  a 
natural  cradle.  There  are  those  who  require  to  "  see 
life,"  and  there  are  those  who  can  stay  at  home  and  live 
it — the  domestic  manufacture  making  the  latter  class 
better  acquainted  with  the  warp  and  woof  of  the  ar 
ticle. 


336          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

"We  were  eight  hours  crossing  South  Carolina — a 
disrespectfully  brief  traverse  of  which  I  felt  quite 
ashamed,  on  a  first  visit — and,  crossing  the  Savannah 
River,  we  ascended  a  bank  into  the  State  of  Georgia. 
This  seemed  the  beginning  of  a  higher  platform  of  land, 
a  different  soil,  and  surface  more  uneven  and  pictu 
resque.  Augusta,  the  town  we  landed  at,  looked  very 
New-England-ish,  to  my  eye.  There  was  a  lively  air 
about  the  people  in  the  streets,  plenty  of  fresh  paint  on 
the  houses,  new  signs,  bright-coloured  bricks,  broad 
streets  with  no  grass  in  them,  and  an  unequivocal  accus 
tomed-ness  to  "  enterprise  "  in  the  paces  of  the  cart 
horses.  The  ladies  whom  we  saw  shopping,  looked 
very  fashionably  dressed,  and  metropolitan.  I  saw  but 
one  novelty  which  told  of  climate  and  usages  different 
from  the  North — a  very  common  looking  man  strolling 
along  leisurely  in  his  shirt-sleeves  and  gazing  into  the 
shop-windows,  but  with  a  negro  behind,  carrying  his 
coat !  This  was  the  nearest  approach  I  had  seen,  out 
of  London,  to  the  mounted  "tiger  "  riding  behind  the 
dandy  "  swell,"  with  the  waterproof  overall  fastened  to 
his  crupper.  The  darkey  footman  was  dressed  in  tow 
cloth  jacket  and  trousers,  and  wore  a  white  felt  hat 
with  ragged  rim — his  black  skin  underneath  looking  fat, 
shiny  and  comfortable.  The  curious  part  of  it  was  to 
Bee  the  quality  of  man  that  could  afford  to  be  his  mas 
ter.  He  was,  himself,  hardly  as  clean  and  tidy  as 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS.  337 

would  be  necessary  to  pass  for  "  respectable  "  in  a 
working-man  at  the  North.  Most  likely,  he  was  an 
eccentric  specimen,  but  there  was  no  misgiving  of  his 
authority  in  the  air  of  his  faithful  Juba. 

There  must  either  be  a  generally  diffused  taste  for 
park-scenery,  in  Georgia,  or  there  is  some  local  advan 
tage  in  thinning  out  woods  and  clearing  them  of  under 
brush,  which  appeals  to  the  common  policy  of  every 
inhabitant  Woodlands  of  majestic  trees,  with  open 
pasture-range  beneath,  were  never  out  of  sight,  from 
one  side  of  the  State  to  the  other.  It  was  only  odd — 
after  seeing  these  in  England  as  appurtenances  of  an 
cient  family  estates,  every  aisle  of  tree-trunks  serving 
mainly  as  a  note  of  admiration  to  some  famous  name — 
to  see  them  here  doing  honour  to  nobody  in  particular. 
Passing  through  what  might  be  manorial  estates  of 
great  magnificence,  I  inquired  in  vain  for  the  name  of  a 
proprietor.  Nobody  knew  wltose  grandeur  and  dignity 
was  there  waving  in  the  wind  and  making  the  hill-sides 
imposing.  It  was  like  glorification  going  to  waste. 
.  I  was  disappointed,  (travelling  as  one  does,  in  a  rail- 
car,  like  a  mailed  letter  in  an  envelope)  not  to  have  had 
the  opportunity  to  see  a  specific  and  undoubted  speci 
men  of  the  Georgia  "  cracker."  This  is  said  to  be  the 
only  customer  with  whom  the  Yankee  has  no  chance — 
a  sharper  of  the  South  that  can  out-wooden-nutmeg 

even   a   Connecticut  pedler.     They   inhabit   the   sand 
15  ' 


338          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

tracts,  waste  lands,  and  border  settlements,  and  are 
usually  described  as  white-headed,  yellow-skinned,  lean 
and  depraved  out  of  missionary  reach.  How  they  come 
by  the  sagacity  with  which  they  "  squat,"  swindle, 
evade  the  law,  and  enjoy  an  Arab  freedom  of  range, 
and  what  is  their  constituent  genealogy,  I  wish  sorno 
Audubon  would  ormthologize. 


LETTER    No.    37. 


NEW     OELEANS,&c. 

New  Orleans,  Middle  of  May,  1852. 

CITIES  are  apt  to  have  some  lesser  peculiarities  by 
which  they  are  as  much  remembered  as  by  that  of 
which  they  are  prouder.  Venice  is  famous  for  her 
gondolas,  Constantinople  for  her  ways  of  bathing  and 
smoking.  The  traveller  thinks  once  of  the  picture-gal 
leries  of  Dresden,  where  he  thinks  twice  of  their  women 
harnessed  into  market-carts — once  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Home,  and  twice  of  what  is  there  recognized,  as  good 
morals.  The  Louvre  that  one  sees  at  Paris  is  little  to 
the  dinner  that  one  eats  there.  New  York  looms  up, 
to  the  common  eye,  as  a  vision  of  Broadway  and 
broiled  oysters.  Boston's  granite  respectability  is  a 


340         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

less  ready  thought  than  its  east  wind  and  codfish. 
"Washington  is  less  remembered  for  its  Capitol  and 
Congress  than  for  the  easy,  every-body-dom  of  its  so 
ciety.  And  so  New  Orleans  has  its  lesser  and  yet 
more  prominent  peculiarity.  I  should  like  to  describe 
it  before  naming  it — for  the  same  thing,  or  what  goes 
elsewhere  by  the  same  name,  is  nowhere  else  so  respect 
able.  A  description  of  New  Orleans  would  be  little 
without  it,  and,  indeed,  the  traveller  would  not  be  just 
to  this  gay  Venice  of  the  West,  without  showing  what 
is  included  in  its  little  custom  of  doubtful  repute. 
Perhaps  I  should  better  prepare  the  reader  for  what  I 
have  to  say  of  it,  by  giving  a  recipe,  for  compounding 
the  same  mixture  out  of  ingredients  existing  in  New 
York  :— 

Take  three-fourths  of  the  purposes  and  pleasures  of 
fashionable  society ;  one-third  of  the  side-walk  uses  of 
Broadway ;  several  first  class  oyster-cellars  with  the 
rowdies  carefully  extracted  ;  a  moderate  portion  of  Wall 
street,  stirred  till  it  effervesces ;  a  pinch  of  gossip  and 
Fine  Arts,  hilarity  at  discretion,  and  a  sprig  or  two  of 
such  "  going-it-strong"  as  gives  no  annoyance  to  others. 
Shake  these  ingredients  w7ell  together,  label  the  whole 
"  highly  respectable,7'  serve  it  to  the  public  in  splendid 
saloons  opening  from  the  level  of  the  most  frequented 
promenades — and  you  have  very  nearly  what  is  pro- 


HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     T-R  O  T I  C  S  .         34 1 

posed  to  you  at  New  Orleans  in  the  phrase  "  come-take- 
a-drink."  The  ingredients  which  New  York  could  not 
furnish  are,  of  course,  understood — difference  of  cli 
mate,  a  dash  of  the  manners  which  mark  the  French 
origin  of  the  city,  and  the  good  behaviour  fully  insured 
by  the  Western  promptness  in  dealing  with  bullies  and 
blackguards. 

Thus  prefacing,  I  may  perhaps  venture,  without  of 
fence  to  the  temperance  of  the  day,  to  record  a  stranger's 
observations  of  this  lesser  peculiarity  of  our  South- 
Western  Metropolis. 

The  Hotel  St.  Louis,  (the  principal  one  after  the 
burning  down  of  the  St.  Charles,)  is  an  immense  struc 
ture  on  the  scale  of  the  Astor  House  of  New  York,  but 
built  around  a  lofty  rotunda,  that  was  once,  I  believe, 
the  City  Exchange.  The  towering  dome  of  this  im 
posing  architectural  centre  reaches  to  the  roof,  and  is 
surrounded  with  corridors  and  a  gallery ;  and  the  hotel 
(an  excellently  kept  and  highly  luxurious  one,)  seems 
quite  secondary  to  it,  in  its  magnificent  use  as  a  "  bar 
room."  It  is  paved  with  marble,  a  marble  counter 
extends  around  one-half  of  its  circular  area,  and  so  vast 
is  the  interior,  that  the  half-moon  of  busy  bar-keepers, 
seen  from  the  opposite  gallery,  as  they  stand  and  ma 
nipulate  behind  their  twinkling  wilderness  of  decanters, 
looks  like  a  julep-orama,  performed  by  dwarfs — the 


342          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS. 

murmur  of  the  gliding  ice  arid  the  aroma  of  fragrant 
mint  betraying  their  occupation,  but  their  features 
quite  undistinguishable  in  the  distance. 

New  Orleans  is  studded  all  over  with  these  temples 
of  drink — none  quite  as  architecturally  imposing  as  the 
St.  Louis  dome,  but  all  sumptuously  splendid  and  cost 
ly.  The  walls  are  hung  with  costly  paintings,  and  all 
that  damask  and  velvet  can  do  for  comfort,  and  gilding 
and  mahogany  for  splendour,  is  lavishly  done.  Of  the 
amount  of  frequentation  of  these  resorts,  some  idea 
may  be  formed  by  what  a  friend  mentioned  to  me  as 
the  history  of  one  of  them,  which  he  had  chanced  to 
learn  in  the  way  of  his  profession.  This  one  ("  The 
Gem,")  cleared  its  rent  of  $3,000,  paid  for  its  decora 
tions  and  furniture,  and  made  a  nett  profit  besides,  of 
$20,000,  in  the  first  year  of  its  operation.  The  average 
receipts  of  any  one  of  the  fashionable  drinking  saloons 
may  be  set  down  at  two  hundred  dollars  a  day.  A 
gentleman's  expenses,  for  the  inevitable  drinks  with 
friends  and  acquaintances,  average  from  two  to  three 
dollars  per  diem.  A  sumptuous  lunch  of  turtle-soup, 
&c.,  is  furnished,  gratis,  at  noon,  to  attract  customers 
— a  man  getting  more  than  the  worth  of  his  money,  of 
course,  who  lunches  and  drinks  for  sixpence  ;  but,  the 
proprietor,  finding  his  profit  in  the  few,  who  eat,  in 
comparison  with  the  many  who  drink,  at  that  hour,  and 
in  the  policy  of  any  thing  which  will  add  to  the  repute 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS.          343 

of  the  place,  and  draw  a  crowd.  The  rivalry  of  these 
drinking  palaces  makes  a  yearly  increase  of  magnifi 
cence  in  their  luxuries  and  appointments,  which  seems 
to  promise  that  the  Arts  shall  be  tributary,  and  the 
city  be  largely  indebted  to  them  for  its  splendour. 

Too  much  of  an  invalid,  while  at  New  Orleans,  for 
any  except  very  leisurely  sight-seeing,  and  the  easy- 
chairs  of  these  gorgeous  saloons  looking  very  tempting 
from  the  street,  I  made  a  daily  halt  at  some  one  or 
other  of  them,  in  my  strolls  to  and  fro — calling  for 
something  cooler  than  the  weather,  and  enjoying  most 
luxuriantly,  as  a  solitary  and  unknown  idler,  my  tum 
bler  of  privilege  to  look  on.  I  do  not  know  that  I  can 
persuade  into  a  description  what  it  was  that  interested 
me.  I  had  seen  drinking  of  most  kinds  before,  but 
there  was,  somehow,  a  daily  novelty  in  the  scene. 
With  the  little  I  have  to  tell,  it  will  be  set  down,  per 
haps,  to  the  debilitated  state  of  my  curiosity. 

In  the  first  place,  I  had  seen  no  such  bar-keeping 
elsewhere.  It  amounts  to  a  profession,  I  observe — for 
the  principal  bar-isters  are  gentlemen  of  leisure,  a.t  all 
except  the  crowded  periods  of  the  day,  the  decanter- 
'ng,  at  the  less  frequented  hours,  being  done  less  ex 
pertly  and  less  formally,  and  by  another  class  of  appa 
rent  students  in  the  art.  But,  the  giving  a  gentleman 
a  julep,  from  twelve  to  two,  P.  M. !  It  is  not  so  much 
the  skill  at  mixing,  though  that  is  a  considerable 


344         HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

science,  and  the  principal  decanter  receives  a  sort  of 
flourish  in  the  air  which  must  require  some  practice  to 
do  safely  and  gracefully,  and  which  probably  originated 
in  an  affected  carelessness  as  to  the  quantity.  The 
manner  of  waiting  on  the  customer  at  that  hour,  is  the 
thing.  Its  philosophy  lies  deep.  It  is  based  on  the 
probability  that  every  man  has  a  second  thirst  in  his 
bosom  which  may  as  well  be  ministered  to  at  the  same 
time — his  vanity.  Never  were  deference  and  eagerness 
to  serve,  more  promptly  and  blandly  thrown  into  man 
ner,  than  by  the  New  Orleans  bar-keeper  on  giving  his 
ever-sudden  attention  to  each  fresh  customer.  What 
ever  the  thirsty  man  thought  of  himself  as  he  came  up, 
he  drinks  as  a  superior  man  unexpectedly  recognised. 
It  is  a  court  trick  harnessed  into  business,  and  working 
to  a  charm.  The  lump  of  sugar  in  the  tumbler  is  of  no 
sweetness  compared  to  the  one  dropped  into  the  self- 
esteem.  It  is  an  electrified  sixpence  that  is  paid  for  it 
— so  small  a  coin  quite  ashamed  to  be  called  upon  to 
express  so  great  an  obligation.  The  slight  leaning 
over  of  the  well-dressed  dispenser  of  liquors — the  admi 
ring  lift  of  his  eyes- — the  respectfully  timid  half-smile  of 
pleasure  at  the  opportunity  to  wait  on  the  gentleman — 
the  uplifted  hand  with  its  undecided  fingers  eager  to 
select  the  privileged  decanter — the  swift  and  dexterous 
obedience  to  the  command — and  the  overflowing  and 
freshet-like  Mississippi-politeness  with  which  it  is  hand- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          345 

ed  across  the  counter — all  for  sixpence  !  It  is  a  study 
of  human  nature,  to  sit  in  one  of  those  saloons  for  an 
hour,  and  see  not  only  how  the  most  cherished  Art  of 
high  life  can  be  learned  and  used  in  the  way  of  busi 
ness,  but  how  flattery  operates,  on  those  unused  to 
take  it  in  their  brandy  and  water. 


LETTER    No,  88 

DKINKING   SALOONS   AT   NEW 
OELEANS,   &c. 

New  Orleans,  Middle  of  May,  1852. 

IN  the  five  hundred  or  more  whom  you  may  see 
walking  up  to  "  take  a  drink"  at  any  one  of  the  fash 
ionable  "  bars"  of  New  Orleans,  on  a  warm  morning 
towards  noon,  there  is,  of  course,  a  difference  of  class 
and  great  variety  of  character.  Of  the  large  proportion 
of  French  inhabitants  of  the  city,  you  scarce  see  one, 
however.  They  stick  to  their  claret  and  coffee  — 
drinking  no  water,  it  is  said,  and  being,  with  habits 
of  generous  diet  in  other  respects,  the  most  healthy 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  of  New  Orleans.  Difference 
of  language  may  be  part  of  what  renders  the  bar  room 
disstasteful  to  the  Louisiana  Frenchman ;  but  it  is  in 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE      TROPICS.          347 

other  respects  also,  an  "  institution"  not  suited  to  French 
nature.  The  julep  and  sherry-cobbler  are  fairly 
naturalized  in  London,  but  we  see  no  sign  in  Paris,  of 
ttiese  bubbles  on  the  counter-current  from  the  New 
World.  Monsieur  makes  his  drink  secondary  to  his 
eating.  Then  he  is  not  so  prodigal  of  pocket,  nor  of 
stomach,  nor  of  intimacy — and  the  bar-room  frequenter 
is  a  spendthrift  of  all  three.  Last,  (perhaps  not  least,) 
the  Frenchman  would  never  devote  so  large  an  appara 
tus  of  happiness — time,  feeling,  and  furniture — to  one 
sex  alone. 

New  Orleans  is  thickly  sprinkled  with  transient 
visiters  from  the  North — junior  partners,  business 
agents,  travellers  for  pleasure,  actors,  artists,  and  ad 
venturers — this  being  the  E-ialto  of  the  great  valley, 
the  turning-round  place  of  tourists,  the  Paris  of  West 
ern  gayeties,  the  golden  apple  held  between  the 
thumb  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  finger  of  the 
Mississippi.  As  it  is  understood  to  be  a  "  gay 
place,"  where  a  man  is  less  watched  and  more  excused 
than  any  where  else,  the  restraints  of  previous  good 
habits  are  here  somewhat  let  up  ;  and  sober  men,  who 
have  not  had  the  opportunity  of  going  abroad,  take 
the  opportunity  of  a  business  visit  to  New  Orleans,  to 
vaccinate  their  ignorance  with  a  little  precautionary 
"knowledge  of  the  world."  It  is  thus  to  its  popula- 


348          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

tion  in  transit  that  the  city  mostly  owes  its  some 
what  light  reputation.  A  London  Times,  which  I 
have  taken  up  while  writing,  speaks  of  it  as  "  the 
profligate  city  of  New  Orleans."  But,  that  the  resi 
dents  are  not  the  chief  incurrers  of  this  odium,  any 
one  can  see  who  will  observe  these  public  resorts  for  a 
day  or  two,xwith  the  aid  of  a  friendly  cicerone. 

The  planter  " takes  a  drink"  a  dozen  times  in  the 
forenoon — but  he  does  not  drink  it.  He  seldom  calls 
for  it  when  alone.  It  is  with  him  a  matter  of  etiquette. 
Wherever  he  meets  friend  or  acquaintance,  there  is  a 
drinking  saloon  near  by — and  he  would  feel  as  much 
at  a  loss  to  exchange  the  compliments  of  the  day  with 
out  stepping  in  to  do  it  over  a  glass,  as  to  bow  to  a 
lady  without  his  hat,  or  manage  an  interview  without 
mention  of  health  or  weather.  In  the  way  he  walks  up, 
signifies  his  wish  to  the  bar-keeper,  sees  that  his 
friend  is  properly  attended  to,  and  disposes  of  his 
own  glass — in  the  manner  of  all  this — there  is  a  certain 
absolute  ease,  and  a  sort  of  cotton-bale  solidity  of 
suavity,  that  form  a  type  of  politeness  which  bor 
rows  nothing  from  intoxication.  It  is  the  Westerner 
at  home — perfectly  self- trustful,  and  ever  ready  for 
emergency,  but  boundlessly  hospitable  and  courteous, 
and,  withal,  careful  in  his  drink.  The  arrangements 
for  the  convenience  of  tobacco  chewers  receive  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          349 

greater  part  of  what  he  takes  into  his  mouth  for 
courtesy,  and  he  modifies  the  mixture  of  his  own 
glass  with  such  adroitness  as  not  to  make  it  a  comment 
on  the  stronger  drink  of  his  companions.  I  was 
amused  at  the  clever  manner  in  which  this  was  done, 
and  the  many  instances  of  it  that  came  under  my  ob 
servation.  So  many  are  the  strangers,  that  they  arc 
part  of  almost  every  coterie  in  a  bar-room  ;  but,  what 
ever  or  w?hoever  they  were,  the  planter  was  the  man  of 
mark  among  them.  He  is  a  gentleman  by  every  influ 
ence  of  education  and  climate.  AVith  a  slight  touch  of 
the  tetrarch  in  his  manner,  perhaps,  the  constant  habit 
of  authority  has  made  it  sit  gracefully  upon  him,  and  it 
impregnates  his  whole  bearing  with  that  indescribable 
air  of  conscious  superiority  which  never  can  be  as 
sumed,  but  which  is  prized  above  all  other  traits  by  the 
high-born  in  Europe.  "We  shall  be  proud  yet  of  our 
planter  school  of  gentlemen.  The  early-learnt  self-pos 
session  as  master,  the  climate's  lavishness  of  gener 
osity,  the  habituation  to  personal  risk  and  chivalric 
promptness,  and  the  large  amounts  and  elegant  inter 
mediary  leisure  with  which  plantation  business  is  trans 
acted,  are  the  training  for  a  peculiar  as  well  as  a  very 
high-spirited  class  of  men.  By  the  members  of  the 
professions,  and  by  those  who  have  long  resided  at  the 
West,  the  manners  of  this  class  are  very  much  adopted, 


350         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

It  is  the  secret  of  that  gracefully  cavalier  tone  pervad 
ing  the  upper  classes  of  the  Valley  and  the  Southern 
Tier — the  more  valuable  because  the  same  thing  is  fast 
dying  out  in  the  lands  where  it  has  been  historical. 

The  other  drinking,  at  the  bar  of  one  of  these  fash 
ionable  saloons,  is  miscellaneous  without  being  riotous 
or  rude.  The  newly  arrived  Northern  man  is  the  most 
conspicuous  from  being  quite  the  earliest  in  the  day  to 
get  "happy."  He  is  used  to  having  the  worth  of  his 
money,  and  drinks  all  his  liquor.  The  bar-keeper's 
flattering  manner  has  made  him  feel  appreciated  for 
the  first  time  in  his  life — and,  with  his  hat  on  the  back 
of  his  head,  he  shakes  hands  right  and  left  with  great 
vehemence,  and  is  otherwise  inconvenient  with  his  cor 
dialities.  The  next  most  eager  customer  is  the  ex 
hausted  business  man,  who  is  new  to  the  climate,  and 
who  rushes  in  from  the  hot  streets  for  an  iced  drink,  as 
if  cholera  and  yellow  fever  were  behind  him.  Then 
there  are  brokers  negociating  gravely  over  a  julep,  and 
groups  around  the  popular  actors  chancing  to  be  in 
town,  and  half  a  dozen  of  those  blandly-resolute  and 
keen-eyed  looking  men,  whom  you  know  at  once  to  be 
steamboat  captains,  and  a  traveller  or  two  exceedingly 
entertained  with  the  novelty  of  the  scene.  And,  what 
with  the  costliness  of  the  pictures  and  drapery,  the 
splendour  of  the  appointments,  the  prevailing  courtesy 


HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          351 

and  certainty  of  good  manners  and  behaviour,  it  is  un 
questionably  a  more  orderly  and  higher-toned  resort 
than  one  of  the  drinking  saloons  of  other  cities,  and 
\vould  deserve  to  be  named,  perhaps,  in  the  same  breath 
with  some  of  the  clubs,  or  other  permitted  shapes  of 
gentlemen's  convivialities. 

Directly  opposite  to  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  and  within 
scent,  of  course,  of  the  fragrant  atmosphere  of  the 
largest  "  bar-room  "  in  America,  stands  a  French  cafe, 
Parisian  in  all  its  appointments,  and  forming  the  corner 
of  a  long  alley  of  French  shops  for  wine-drinking,  bil 
liards,  &c.  I  went  over,  at  the  after-dinner  hour,  and 
found  it  thronged  with  the  French  mechanics  most  of 
them  in  their  shirt-sleeves,  but  with  wonderfully  smooth 
hats  and  boots  brilliantly  lustrous.  It  was  a  singularly 
fat  and  happy  assemblage.  The  higher  class,  I  believe, 
do  not  frequent  the  cafes,  here,  as  in  France.  The 
quality  of  the  coffee  might  tempt  them.  It  was  truly 
delicious.  "Whether  there  was  any  thing  unmetropolitan 
in  the  accent  of  the  merry  chatter  around,  my  ear  was 
not  sufficiently  practised  to  decide — but  it  sounded  to 
me,  as  the  coffee  tasted  and  the  surroundings  looked — 
French-y  enough  to  have-  been  in  France.  To  have 
such  marked  exponents  of  the  two  countries  as  a  bar 
room  and  a  cafe,  on  opposite  sides  of  a  street,  each  the 
best  of  its  kind  and  each  in  full  national  operation,  and 


352         HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

noisy  exclusively  with  its  own  language,  seemed  to  me 
a  racy  and  novel  contiguity.  So  strong  and  close  a 
contrast  of  nationalities  could  be  found  nowhere  else,  I 
fancy.  You  set  down  your  Yankee  julep  on  the  coun 
ter,  and  cross  the  street  into  France. 

Of  the  shops  in  the  French  quarter,  the  glovers,  ho 
siers  and  apothecaries,  as  in  Paris,  array  their  windows 
very  invitingly — quite  outdoing  New  York  in  the  dis 
play  of  these  particular  merchandises.  The  apotheca 
ries,  as  elsewhere,  deal  also  in  perfumeries ;  but  they 
add  still  another  outrider  to  their  drugs  and  medicines 
— a  most  brilliant  assortment  of  daggers  and  revolvers. 
Their  show-cases  present  a  curious  juxta-position  of 
means  for  keeping  life  in  a  man,  and  for  letting  it  out 
of  him — salves  and  dirks,  pills  and  pistols — possibly  a 
prudent  hedging  against  the  inroads  of  homcepathy ; 
for,  however  the  trade  in  drugs  and  medicines  may 
languish  before  the  progress  of  new  lights,  the  demand 
for  deadly  weapons  is  likely  to  be  lively  in  the  "West 
for  some  time  to  come.  It  is  generally  supposed  that 
every  man  has  his  "  persuader,"  of  some  sort,  in  his 
pocket.  The  ten  thousand  river-boys  and  other  law 
less  frequenters  of  New  Orleans  are  reminded  of  it  by 
the  numerous  shop  windows  which  advertise  the  sup 
ply  of  the  demand.  And  it  is  doubtless  owing  to  the 
knowledge  of  this  universal  equipment  and  readiness, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          353 

that  insolences  and  acts  of  violence  are  so  comparative 
ly  rare  in  this  community.  In  New  York,  where  the 
peaceable  man  is  very  sure  to  be  unarmed,  rowdyism 
is  ten  times  as  rampant. 


LETTER   No.  39. 


NEW   ORLEANS,   &c. 

NEW  ORLEANS  has  three  classes  peculiar  to  itself— 
migratory  males,  Creoles  and  Quadroons — and  while,  to 
the  respective  habits  of  each  is  attributed  the  peculiar 
character  of  the  other  two,  the  three  together  form  the 
piquant  physiognomy  of  the  city,  and  the  difference  01 
its  manners  and  morals  from  those  of  all  the  other 
capitals  of  the  Union.  The  Creoles  being  mostly  of 
Spanish  and  French  descent,  and  the  Quadroons  being 
the  various  feminine  dilutions  of  the  negro — the  cotton 
and  sugar  atmosphere  of  the  climate,  apparently,  giving 
n  voluptuous  elegance  to  both  classes  which  is  not 
produced  by  the  same  crosses  of  blood  in  other  places 
— it  is  to  New  Orleans  that  the  traveller  must  come  to 


HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    T  R  O  I>  I  C  S  .  355 

see  these  varieties  of  the  human  family.  They  are  indeed, 
among  the  city's  prominent  objects  of  interest,  and  the 
stranger  \vould  probably  be  an  exception,  who  should 
not  inquire  the  whereabouts  of  these  wonders  of  the 
adorable  gender  before  visiting  the  churches  and  court 
houses. 

To  begin  with  the  least  interesting  class.  The  "  mi 
gratory  males,"  (or  the  portion  of  the  population  known 
by  this  phrase,  and  so  designated  by  Norman,  in  his 
Historical  and  Geographical  Guide-Book,)  number 
about  twenty  thousand.  These  constitute  one-half  or 
more  of  the  business  men  of  the  place.  The  commerce 
of  the  city  being  a  matter  of  "  season,"  or  occupying 
but  the  cooler  months,  the  merchant  is  not  necessarily 
a  resident  citizen.  With  this  excuse,  indeed,  (and 
carefully  renewed  traditions  of  the  yellow  fever,  cholera 
and  alligators,)  the  Northern  man  who  is  "  so  unfortunate 
as  to  have  business  at  New  Orleans,"  is  justified  by 
public  opinion  in  encountering  its  perils  singly.  He 
leaves  wife  and  family  at  home.  Married  man  or 
bachelor,  therefore,  he  is  one  of  that  class  who  live  at 
hotels  and  boarding-houses,  and  whose  large  number 
furnishes  the  patronage  that  has  made  these  establish 
ments  the  most  luxurious  in  the  world.  Nowhere  is  the 
single  man  better  fed  and  lodged  than  at  New  Orleans. 
Nowhere  is  the  problem  of  nourishment,  or  the  effect  of 
generous  diet  on  the  spirits,  and  general  juvenescence — 


356          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

more  satisfactorily  carried  out.  Judging  by  the  differ 
ent  manners  and  looks  of  the  same  men  domesticated 
elsewhere,  the  fount  for  the  renewal  of  youth,  in  search 
of  which  Ponce  de  Leon  voyaged  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  here  sucked  through  a  straw. 

The  migratory  male,  though  usually  a  man  of  means 
is  so  seldom  a  candidate  for  matrimony  as  never  to  be 
valued  for  that  probability.  If  summer  and  a  wife  do 
not  come  round  to  him  together,  the  mere  fact  that  he 
is  a  bachelor  at  New  Orleans  pronounces  him  unlikely 
to  wed.  This,  and  the  rareness  of  any  comfortable 
proficiency  in  the  French  language,  combine  to  isolate 
the  aristocratic  Creole  society  from  the  approach  of 
these  men  about  town.  Polite  hospitality  is  a  dull  lot 
tery  without  prizes  ;  and  love  made  in  broken  French, 
or  vicariously  through  the  mamma,  as  French  usage 
requires,  is  not  very  tempting  bait  to  hearts  that  can 
otherwise  spice  their  leisure.  By  this  exclusion,  ho\v- 
ever,  the  gentleman  with  money  and  domestic  capabili 
ties  to  spare  is  deprived  of  the  restraint  which  society 
imposes.  It  is  only  those  who  belong  to  society  who 
feel  the  eye  of  its  good  opinion  on  their  morals.  And 
the  consciousness  of  this  Saturnalian  freedom  exercised 
by  twenty  thousand  of  the  more  youthful  male  inhabit 
ants,  is  perhaps  part  of  the  secret  of  the  singularly  gay 
and  irresponsible  demeanour  for  which  New  Orleans  is 
proverbial.  It  is  confessedly  the  secret  also,  (and  the 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          357 

Creole  exclusiveness  is  openly  pleaded  as  the  excuse,) 
of  the*  intermittent  matrimony  of  the  Quadroons,  valid 
only  during  the  business  season,  and  conducted  with 
much  of  the  decency  and  (it  is  said)  more  than  the  good 
faith  of  ordinary  society.  In  confirmation  of  these 
views,  I  will  quote  a  passage  from  the  admirable  Guide 
Book  to  which  I  have  been  indebted  for  the  statistics  I 
have  given.  The  author,  B.  M.  Norman,  Esq.  remarks: 

"  Of  the  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  souls  who 
now  occupy  this  capital,  (in  1845,)  about  twenty  thou 
sand  may  be  estimated  as  migratory.  These  are  prin 
cipally  males,  engaged  in  the  various  departments  of 
business.  Some  of  them  have  families  at  the  North, 
where  they  pass  the  summer.  Many  are  bachelors, 
who  have  no  home  for  one-half  the  year,  and,  if  the 
poets  are  to  be  believed,  less  than  half  a  home  for  the 
remainder.  As  these  two  classes  of  migratory  citizens, 
who  live  at  the  hotels  and  boarding-houses,  embrace 
nearly,  if  not  quite,  one-half  the  business  men  of  the  city, 
it  may  serve  to  some  extent  to  account  for  the  seeming 
ly  severe  restrictions  by  which  the  avenues  to  good  na 
tive  society  are  protected.  Unquestionable  character, 
certified  beyond  mistake,  is  the  only  passport  to  the 
domestic  circle  of  the  Creole.  *  *  The  restrictions 
thus  thrown  around  society,  and  the  great  difficulty 
which  the  new  coiner  experiences  in  securing  a  share 
in  those  social  enjoyments  to  which  he  has  been  accus 
tomed  in  other  places,  have  had  an  unfavourable  effect 
upon  the  morals  of  the  place.  Having  no  other  re 
source  for  pastime,  when  the  hours  of  business  are 
over,  he  flies ,"  etc.  etc. 

"Of  the  lovely  clisdainers  of  these  birds  of  passage — 
the  exclusive  and  thorough-bred  CREOLES — the  stranger 


358          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

who  is  in  New  Orleans  but  for  a  few   days,    gets,  of 
course,  a  very  casual  and  unreliable   impassion.*    His 
curiosity,  if  he  be  an  American,  is  scarce  more  stimula 
ted  than  his  ideas  of  precedence  are  embarrassed,  by 
that  which  is  an  excessive  novelty  in  his  own  country, 
though  common  enough  on  the  Continent  of  Europe — 
the  foreigners  are  the  upper  class.     Here  are  two  halves 
of  a  city,  as  distinct,  up  to  the  very  dividing  edge,  as 
the  half  of  a  pine-apple  fitted  to  the  half  of  a  pine-apple 
cheese — one  as  thoroughly  Yankee  as  granite-fronted 
and  big- windowed  new  book-stores,  and  slender-necked, 
sharp-eyed-looking  shopkeepers  can  make  it,  while  the 
other  is  as  old-fashioned  and  conservatively  French — 
but,  while  the  enterprise  and  business  prosperity  seems 
all  on  the  side  where  his  own  language  is  exclusively 
spoken,  the  patrician  society  wherein  move  the  dames 
he  is  most  curious  to  see,  is  on  the  side  where  he  hears 
nothing  but  French  !     Willing  enough  to  recognise  the 
precedence,   if  he  had  time — (an  Atlantic  between,  to 
make  up  his  mind  to  it) — the  suddenness  with  which 
he  is  called  upon  to  reverse  his  habit  of  uppermostage, 
and  place  the  speakers  of  a  foreign  language  above  his 
Yankee-speaking  countrymen,   here,  on  their  own  soil, 
confuses  and  perplexes  him.     He  lacks  the  accommo 
dating  facility  with  which  the  municipality  have  arran 
ged  the  street  signs — "  EUE  DES  GRANDS  HOMMES  "  on 
one  corner,  and  "  GREAT  MEN  STREET  "  on  the  corner 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          359 

opposite;  or  the  still  more  pat  and  plump  putting  of  the 
French  uppermost,  in  the  conspicuous  sign  of  one  of 
their  respectable  vermin-killers — "  MORT  AUX  EATS  " 
above,  and  "  DEATH  ON  EATS  "  immediately  below. 

My  own  most  satisfactory  glimpse  at  the  Creole  la 
dies  was  an  accidental  one — caught  from  a  friend's  car 
riage  as  he  stopped  under  balconied  windows,  and  called 
out  the  inmates  for  a  moment's  gossip  in  passing — but 
it  does  not  take  long  to  see  (what  is  the  very  bean  ideal 
of  fashionable  culture,  and  what  one  thinks  perfectly 
adorable  wherever  one  sees  it)  the  loveliness  of  a  French 
lady  in  demi-toilette.  It  was  a  summer's  afternoon, 
and  we  were  driving  around  among  the  avenues  of 
charming  suburban  residences — my  friend  kindly  play 
ing  the  cicerone,  but,  himself  a  Creole,  and  taking  ad 
vantage  of  passing  the  residences  of  intimates,  by  ex 
changing  here  and  there  a  greeting  where  a  window 
showed  sign  of  fair  inhabitant — and,  with  those  pictu 
resque  balconies  suddenly  enlivened  by  a  fair  form,  ex 
quisitely  dressed,  though  in  neglige,  and  with  the  lively 
familiarity  of  gossip  in  the  only  language  that  can  ex 
press  gossip  in  perfection,  and,  withal,  with  the  com 
plete  simplicity  which  only  seemed  to  be  there  because 
Art  had  found  and  left  it  there — I  thought  I  had  never 
seen  glimpses  01  life  more  delightful.  The  Creole  man 
ners  are  those  of  French  life  (I  am  led  .to  believe)  be 
fore  Napoleon  sold  Louisiana  to  us,  when,  for  an  age, 


360          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

it  had  been  the  world's  model  of  polite  culture.  Both 
here  and  at  Martinique,  I  fancy,  the  Frenchman  might 
find,  shelved  and  nourishing,  at  high-water  mark,  that 
old-time  courtliness  which  has  found  a  drift-wood  desti 
ny  on  the  ebbing  tide  of  aristocracy  at  home. 

I  had  a  fuller  view  of  the  Creole  fashion  at  the  opera 
— a  crowded  house,  and  apparently  none  but  the  ladies 
of  this  particular  class  present.  Sir  William  Don  was 
playing  at  one  of  the  other  theatres,  and  the  city  wras 
most  showily  placarded  on  every  corner  with  the  bills 
of  "  A  Bloomer  Ball" — this  last  being  the  evening's 
most  likely  attraction  for  the  "  migratory  males."  The 
opera  drew  its  audience,  apparently,  by  mere  force  of 
fashion.  Madam  Wiedemann  was  the  prima  donna, 
and  her  intellectual  ugliness,  unredeemed  by  her  voice, 
left  us  plenty  of  spare  attention  for  other  things.  It 
would  have  been  like  a  dress  opera  at  Paris  or  Dresden 
but  for  the  singular  delicacy  of  the  female  physiogno 
mies,  and  (I  could  not  help  thinking)  a  far  greater 
amount  of  beauty  than  ever  is  seen  assembled  in  those 
capitals.  The  house  was  not  very  large,  but  it  was 
crammed  to  every  corner  with  absolute  good  taste  in 
toilettes.  I  had  a  favourable  seat  in  the  box  of  a 
French  acquaintance,  and,  with  a  complete  view  of  the 
assemblage,  I  tried  in  vain  to  find  an  un  stylish  dame  or 
demoiselle.  There  was  a  languidly  self-possessed  air 
curiously  universal;  and  not  practised  upon  one  atti- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          361 

tilde,  either,  for,  so  sociable  an  audience,  with  so  lively 
a  circulation  of  beaux,  I  had  seldom  seen.  It  was  evi 
dently  used  as  much  for  a  conversazione  as  for  an  opera. 
Of  the  Creole  beauty,  as  there  seen,  the  stranger 
would  bring  away  a  charmed  remembrance,  I  am  very 
sure.  The  magnolia-like  indolence  of  their  pale  but 
still  passionate-looking  sweetness,  shows  a  perfecting 
touch,  (for  love,  at  ^oast,)  given  to  tue  blood  of  a  race, 
by  the  climate. 


LETTER    No.    40, 


NEW    OKLEANS,&c. 

THE  QUADROON'S  humble  table,  on  Sunday,  is  graced 
by  the  presence  of  her  lord  and  master — or,  in  this 
way,  at  least,  we  may  plausibly  account  for  the  fact, 
that,  only  on  this  morning  of  the  week,  the  bandanna 
beauty  is  sure  to  be  seen  at  the  market  with  her  bas 
ket.  The  stranger  who  expresses  a  curiosity  with  re 
gard  to  the  class,  is  reminded  by  any  citizen  not  to  lose 
this  opportunity,  as  the  Quadroon  is  seen  regularly 
abroad  at  no  other  place  and  time.  She  is  a  wife  that 
day,  table  and  all — and  must  herself  pick  the  delica 
cies  that  are  to  assist  her  tenderness  in  making  a 
domestic  meal  more  agreeable  than  the  luxurious  din 
ner  at  a  hotel. 

It  was  a  brilliant  and  balmy  sunrise  that  called   mo 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPIiCS.          363 

out  of  bed  for  this  market-scene,  and,  ("two  birds  with 
one  stone,")  for  the  matims  in  the  cathedral  near  by. 
May  is  a  sort  of  Quadroon  month,  famous  for  making 
a  day  of  uncertain  weather  begin  as  if  it  were  summer 
sure  to  last — May  mornings  having  thus  passed  into  a 
phrase ;  and  being  proverbially  and  sweetly  bright, 
however  cold  the  noons  or  cloudy  the  evenings.  The 
climate  of  New  Orleans,  (let  me  here  record  my  pul 
monary  warnings  to  invalids,)  is  not  to  be  tropically  be 
lieved  in ;  but  the  air  in  the  streets,  on  the  Sabbath 
morning  I  speak  of,  was  of  a  quality  for  which  it  was 
worth  while  to  have  had  lungs  made  delicate,  even  by 
illness.  There  was  a  caress  in  it,  to  which  a  well  man, 
(with  his  finer  nature  out  of  reach  under  his  animal 
health,)  might  have  been  almost  culpably  indifferent. 

My  way  lay  through  the  French  quarter  of  the  town, 
where  the  shops  were  all  being  opened  as  on  a  week 
day — the  shop-shutting  Sunday,  as  in  Paris,  not  com 
mencing  till  noon.  As  the  traveller  knows,  it  is  part 
of  the  French  distribution  of  employments  to  the  sexes, 
that  the  persuading  across  the  counter  shall  be  done  by 
attractive  women ;  and  as  these  fair  clerks,  though 
they  take  down  the  window-shutters,  and  sweep,  and 
sprinkle,  are  never  ungracefully  dressed,  the  busy  side 
walk  of  shop-openers  is  not  an  unattractive  promenade 
for  early  risers.  If  one  wants  a  contrast,  however,  it 
is  near  by.  Missing  my  way,  I  passed  through  a  street 


364         HEALTH    TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

entirely  inhabited  by  German  emigrants — homely  clo 
thing  needlessly  ungraceful,  and  filth  needlessly  aggra 
vated  and  lived-in  like  a  natural  element,  from  one  end 
to  the  other.  The  Germans  seem  to  me  to  have  been 
unmistakeably  assorted  before  birth.  If  "  low-born,"  it 
is  not,  as  in  other  countries,  an  accident  that  may  be 
remedied  by  removal  to  the  atmosphere  of  the  "  free 
and  equal."  They  are  natural  plebeians — if  plebeians 
at  all — their  inferiority  of  blood  affidavited  by  every 
look  and  movement,  and  perpetuated  by  instincts  hope 
lessly  quadruped-esque.  And  while  they  thus  "live 
like  pigs,"  in  New  Orleans,  there  are  streets  of  French 
people  just  as  poor,  all  around  them,  and  from  every 
window  juts  out  a  box  of  flower-pots,  with  roses  in 
bloom,  and  no  woman,  child,  door-step  or  poodle-dog, 
looks  otherwise  than  picturesque  and  cleanly.  The 
"  Microscopic  World,  not  long  since,  gave  us  an  ac 
count  of  insects  whose  eggs  are  eaten  and  digested  by 
two  different  birds  before  being  first  found  winged  and 
lively  in  guano;  and,  that  German  emigrants'may  thus 
be  the  guano-cracy  of  our  country,  ready  to  brighten 
into  American  citizens  after  an  age  or  two  of  filth  and 
omitted  intellect,  may  be  an  analogous  fact  in  natural 
history. 

The  market  was  audible  before  it  was  visible,  and  the 
turning  of  the  corner  which  brought  it  into  view  was 
quite  like  the  lifted  curtain  of  a  play.  The  building  was 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE      TROPICS.          365 

but  a  light  roof  supported  upon  columns,  and  being 
thus  open  on  all  sides  to  the  surrounding  streets,  its 
whole  busy  scene  was  embraced  in  a  dramatic  coup 
d^ceil.  But  the  action  and  vociferation  with  which  eve 
ry  huckster  drew  attention  to  his  stall,  were  still  more 
dramatic.  A  practised  player  would  hardly  have  out 
done  any  one  of  them.  Over  one  shelf  rather  meagrely 
furnished  with  vegetables,  the  salesman  was  indus 
triously  blowing  a  trumpet — perhaps  by  way  of  balan 
cing  the  attraction,  as  most  of  the  venders  were  women. 
Flowers  in  sumptuous  bouquets  seemed  an  article  in 
great  demand.  The  potatoes  and  turnips  were  sold  by 
small  earthen-pots'-full — the  pots  of  a  shape  somewhat 
promoted  by  their  present  occupation.  Hot  coffee  was 
smilingly  pressed  upon  the  passer-by,  from  almost  eve 
ry  corner,  and,  indeed,  it  seemed  the  custom  to  take  a 
cup  in  the  course  of  the  morning's  marketing.  Flowers, 
coffee  ajid  all,  it  was  a  gay  matinee. 

I  made  the  round  of  the  alleys,  jostled  here  and  there 
a  fair  and  unscrupulous  elbow,  and  shoved  right  and 
left  by  the  neat  French  baskets  carried  on  vigorous 
petticoated  hips  ;  but  I  needed  a  cicerone.  The  class 
I  had  particularly  come  to  see  were  doubtless  around 
me,  in  any  number ;  but  there  seemed  various  shades 
of  complexion,  and  I  looked  in  vain  for  those  differen 
ces  of  demeanour  which  might  indicate  the  nearer  or 
remoter  approaches  to  the  matrimony  forbidden  in  its 


366         HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

full  extent  to  persons  of  their  colour.*  Frailty  by  the 
day  is  usually  recognisable  in  a  crowd,  all  over  the 
world ;  but  the  fidelity  by  the  quarter,  or  by  the  season, 
for  which  the  "  Quadroon  "  is  remarkable,  seems  to 
allow  her  to  walk,  dress,  and  buy  vegetables,  so  much 
like  a  wife,  as  not  to  be  distinguished  by  a  stranger. 
Some  of  the  basketed  marketers  were  so  white,  that,  but 
for  the  bandanna  on  the  head  and  the  barbaresque  gold 
ear-ring,  I  should  not  have  supposed  them  "  persons  of 
colour."  The  tan-stripe  down  the  vertebrae  of  the  back 
— which  is  said  to  betray  any  shade  of  negro  taint  in 
the  blood,  was,  of  course,  beyond  my  promenading 
observation. 

I  must  confess  to  have  had  my  sympathies  somewhat 
excited  for  this  class,  by  conversation  with  Southern 
gentlemen,  who  spoke  of  their  condition,  of  course,  with 
no  Northern  prejudice.  One  or  two  Quadroon  families 
were  mentioned,  who,  with  freedom,  had  acquired  means 
to  give  their  children  education,  and  who  had  sent  them 

*  It  may  explain  my  embarrassment  in  this  particular,  to  quote 
the  account  of  the  varieties  of  mixed  complexion  given  in  the 
Encyclopedia  : — 

"  The  offspring  of  a  white  and  a  mulatto  is  called  a  quadroon, 
or  one-quarter  black ;  of  a  white  and  quadroon,  a  '  muster,'  or 
one-eighth  black ;  of  a  white  and  muster,  a  '  mustafina,'  or  one- 
sixteenth  black — after  which  they  are  said  to  be  '  whitewashed,' 
and  are  considered  as  Europeans." 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          367 

to  France,  that  they  might  marry,  and  enter  into  busi 
ness  where  there  was  no  reproach  upon  their  blood. 
But  it  is  a  curious  peculiarity  of  the  race,  that  home 
sickness  seems  to  be  the  weakness  of  their  nature. 
These  who  were  incidentally  mentioned  in  the  conver 
sations  I  speak  of  had  returned,  leaving  what  might  be 
thought  excellent  opportunities  in  a  land  where  they 
were  not  stigmatized,  and  were  now  living  in  New  Or 
leans  in  complete  seclusion,  their  inevitable  melancholy 
deepened  and  embittered  by  education.  One  family 
was  instanced,  more  particularly,  who  possessed  beauty 
and  talents  to  a  very  unusual  degree. 

My  anticipations  were  not  exactly  realized  by  the 
female  Quadroons  whom  I  saw  in  the  market.  Those 
whose  white  parent  had  been  of  light  complexion — a 
sort  of  freckled  mulatto,  with  reddish  hair,  were  fright 
fully  ugly.  The  brunette  complexion  of  the  French 
man  or  Spaniard  mixes  best  with  the  negro  blood. 
Some  who  had  a  slight  down  of  dark  silk  on  the  lip, 
and  the  sort  of  hushed-eye  of  day-slumbering  night- 
awaking  passion— the  clear  brown  iris  large,  liquid  and 
indolent — looked  capable  of  being  thought  beautiful,  at 
least  by  one  person  at  a  time.  A  beauty  which  they 
al.  had,  however,  was  the  perfectly  flat  and  straight 
back,  with  the  head  and  neck  springing  from  it  with 
admirable  pose  and  proportion.  Between  ankles  and 
chin,  they  are  said  to  be  the  best-formed  race  of  women 


368          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

in  the  world — the  foot  inheriting  with  fatal  certainty 
the  trace  of  toil,  and  the  face  the  far-descending  im 
print  of  conscious  servitude.  This  last  is  slight,  though 
I  think  universal.  I  could  make  no  other  generalizing 
remark  upon  the  character  of  the  faces  I  saw,  except 
that  there  was  a  kind  of  deferential  modesty  in  them  all, 
and  (what  I  very  much  admire,  for  it  is  elsewhere  found 
only  at  the  other  extreme,  of  high  breeding,)  complete 
unconsciousness  of  observation.  Every  Quadroon  I 
saw  walked  through  the  crowd  as  if  she  felt  herself  to 
be  invisible. 

From  the  market  I  made  my  way  to  the  Cathedral — 
matins  over,  apparently,  but  doors  open,  and  dimness 
and  stillness  within  for  all  who  needed  them.  The  Ca 
tholic  worship  is  the  religious  luxury  of  the  traveller. 
Away  from  home  and  its  set  times  and  places,  the  heart 
needs  to  know  that  it  may  enter  a  house  of  God  when 
ever  world-weary  or  willing  to  be  alone  with  better 
thoughts.  We  may  not  always  pray  there.  To  go  in 
may  be  rather  a  luxury  than  a  duty  performed.  But 
the  accustomed  influences  are  soothing  ;  and,  if  one  has 
a  home  and  has  been  long  away,  it  is  the  place  to  go 
and  be  alone  with  tender  memories  of  it.  I  sat  down 
in  the  dim  light,  and  an  old  gray-headed  negro  said  his 
prayers  near  by — we  two,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  the  only 
profilers  by  the  open  door,  for  that  hour— and  I  felt 
myself  somehow,  magnetised  by  his  neighbourhood  and 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          369 

his  apparent  devotion.  Perhaps  his  praying,  also,  for 
the  sick-looking  stranger,  may  be  part  of  the  history  of 
the  morning  whose  mingled  experience  I  have  thus  en 
deavored  to  chronicle. 


LETTER    No,  41 

CLASSES    AT    NEW  OELEANS,  &c. 

THE  "  ALLIGATORS  " — the  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi 
— were  a  part  of  the  transient  population  of  New  Or 
leans,  about  whom  I  had  long  felt  a  curiosity.  In  story 
and  in  common  parlance,  they  occupy  somewhat  the 
position  as  to  the  "West,  that  the  Bedouin  Arabs  do  to 
the  East — though,  with  a  home  three  thousand  miles 
long,  and  with  a  life  which  compels  them  to  "  combine 
the  accomplishments  of  the  sailor,  the  whaleman,  the 
backwoodsman  and  the  Yankee,"  they  are  vastly  supe 
rior  to  those  mere  mounted  loafers  of  the  desert. 
Probably  no  vocation  in  the  world  so  taxes  every  kind 
of  bodily  dexterity,  so  disciplines  the  courage,  so  calls 
upon  the  sharpness  of  the  wits.  Their  constitutions 
are  not  only  subjected  to  the  changes  of  all  climates, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          371 

but  their  intercourse  is  with  the  inhabitants  of  all  lati 
tudes.  They  vibrate  between  the  icicle  and  the  sugar 
cane,  familiarized  on  the  way  with  every  variety  of  pro 
duce,  of  soil,  of  merchandise  and  of  character.  They 
eat  anything,  toil  anyhow,  sleep  anywhere.  The  partic 
ular  neighbourhood  to  which  any  one  of  them  is  re 
sponsible  for  character — the  spot  in  the  wilderness 
where  bis  chimney  smokes  and  his  wife  waits  for  him — 
are  trifles  lost  in  the  vastness  of  his  range.  His  credit 
is  the  length  of  his  visible  purse,  his  reputation  the 
length  of  his  visible  shadow.  From  the  overlapping 
reciprocities  and  influences  that  sustain  other  men  he  is 
completely  isolated.  His  strength  is  in  what  he  can 
show,  what  he  can  do,  what  he  has  got,  and  what  he  is 
— for  the  moment.  He  depends  wholly  and  habitually 
on  himself. 

"With  the  level  of  the  human  family  to  which  this 
class  belongs,  as  with  the  opposite  extreme  of  the  most 
refined  and  cultivated,  I  must  confess  to  be  more  inter 
ested  than  with  the  classes  intermediate — as  one  admires 
the  tree  in  the  untrimmed  wilderness  of  the  woods,  or 
when  made  into  something  useful  or  ornamental,  with 
out  wishing  to  give  much  time  to  it,  as  lumber.  The 
school  of  character  in  which  these  amphibious  "Wes 
terners  are  educated,  for  example,  is  more  interesting 
than  much  that  is  called  "  society."  It  is  a  school 
without  books — taught  by  nature  and  contact  only— 


372         HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS. 

and  must  be  full  of  curious  phenomena  of  development, 
mental  and  moral.  I  regretted  exceedingly  that  I  had 
not  the  health  and  leisure  to  make  a  careful  study  of 
the  five-mile  extent  of  "  alligators  "  along  the  Levee  of 
New  Orleans.  Among  the  occupants  of  the  two  thou 
sand  flat-boats,  (estimated  to  be  moored  along  the  shore 
at  one  time,)  there  must  be  many  a  monotype  of  a  man 
who  would  never  have  been  so  genuinely  himself, 
though  he  might  have  more  largely  developed  with  edu 
cation  and  opportunity — many  a  poet  whose  soul  is  all 
there,  though  not  bound  also  in  morocco;  many  a  hero 
whose  heart  swells  without  straining  gilt  buttons;  many 
a  statesman  whose  power  sleeps,  like  the  statue  in  the 
block  of  marble,  waiting  for  the  chisel  of  his  country's 
need.  Judging  by  the  graphic  and  pungent  phrases 
which  we  are  continually  adopting  from  the  vocabulary 
of  the  "  alligator,"  he  is,  at  least,  a  talker  of  most  enter 
taining  originality ;  and,  as  one  of  the  most  important 
features  of  our  national  character  is  forming  in  his  west 
ern  growth  and  progress,  he  might  be  an  instructive 
Btudy  as  well  as  an  interesting  and  amusing  one. 

My  walks  to  the  river,  at  New  Orleans,  were  not  ta 
ken,  of  course,  without  remembering  to  what  that  span 
of  muddy  water  is  the  wondrous  gate.  Including  the 
tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  it  is  the  outlet  of  seventeen 
thousand  miles  of  internal  navigation.  The  Valley  of 
the  great  river  alone,  (says  Norman,)  contains  nearly  as 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.         373 

many  square  miles  and  more  tillable  ground  than  all 
continental  Europe;  and,  if  peopled  as  densely  as 
England,  would  sustain  a  population  of  five  hundred 
millions — more  than  half  of  the  present  inhabitants  of 
the  earth.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  anticipate  the  fu 
ture  magnitude  of  New  Orleans  as  the  commercial  em 
porium  of  this  vast  tract.  The  productions  of  many 
climates  are  tributary  to  its  progress.  The  Mississippi 
abounds  in  coal,  lead,  iron  and  copper  ore,  all  found  in 
veins  of  wonderful  richness.  The  Missouri  stretches 
thirty-nine  hundred  miles  to  the  Great  Falls,  among  the 
Fiat  Foot  Indians,  and  five  thousand  from  New  Or 
leans.  The  Yellow  Stone  Eiver,  navigable  for  eleven 
hundred  miles,  the  Platte  for  sixteen  hundred,  and  the 
Kauzas  for  twelve  hundred,  are  only  tributaries  to  the 
latter  river.  The  Ohio  is  two  thousand  miles  to  Pitts- 
burg,  receiving  into  her  bosom  from  numerous  streams, 
the  products  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Ken 
tucky,  Western  Virginia,  Tennessee,  Indiana  and  Illi 
nois.  The  Arkansas,  Big  Black,  Yazoo,  Red  River  and 
many  others,  all  pouring  their  wealth  into  the  main  ar 
tery,  the  Mississippi,  upon  whose  mighty  current  it 
floats  down  to  the  grand  reservoir,  New  Orleans.  The 
population  of  the  Mississippi  valley  was  ten  millions  in 
1845,  and  in  that  same  year  there  were  five  hundred 
steamboats — most  of  them  of  monstrous  size  and  capa 
city — plying  upon  its  waters.  Let  me  simply  quote 


374         HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

Mr.  Norman's  concluding  remarks  after  giving  these 
statistics  : — 

"  Such  statements  as  these,  large  as  they  seem,  con 
vey  to  the  reader  but  a  partial  idea  of  the  great  Valley, 
and  of  the  wide  extent  of  country  to  which  New  Or 
leans  is  the  key,  and  which  guaranties  her  present  and 
future  prosperity.  To  form  a  full  estimate,  he  must, 
beside  all  this,  see  her  mountains  of  iron,  and  her  inex 
haustible  veins  of  lead  and  copper  ore,  and  almost 
boundless  regions  of  coal.  The  first  article  mentioned 
(and  the  phrase  in  which  it  is  expressed  is  no  figure  of 
speech)  has  been  pronounced  by  the  most  scientific  as- 
sayer  of  France,  to  be  superior  to  the  best  Swedish 
iron.  These,  and  a  thousand  unenumerated  products, 
beside  the  well-known  staples,  constitute  its  wealth ;  all 
of  which,  by  a  necessity  of  nature,  must  flow  through 
our  Crescent  City,  to  find  an  outlet  into  the  greater 
world  of  commerce.  With  such  resources,  nothing 
short  of  some  dreadful  convulsion  of  nature,  or  the 
more  dreadful  calamity  of  war,  can  prevent  New  Or 
leans  from  becoming,  if  not  the  first,  next  in  commercial 
importance  to  the  first  city  in  the  IJnited  States — per 
haps,  in  the  world.  The  nourishing  towns  upon  the 
Mississippi  and  her  tributaries,  are  merely  the  deposito 
ries  for  this  great  mart.  In  twenty  years  she  must, 
according  to  her  present  increase,  contain  a  population 
of  three  hundred  thousand,  with  a  trade  proportionably 
extended. 

"  With  such  views,  it  may  be  deemed  folly  to  at 
tempt  to  look  forward  to  the  end  of  the  nineteenth  cen 
tury,  when  this  metropolis  will,  in  all  probability,  ex 
tend  back  to  Lake  Pontchar train,  and  to  Carrolton  on 
the  course  of  the  river.  The  swamps,  that  now  only 
echo  to  the  hoarse  bellowing  of  the  alligator,  will  then 
be  densely  built  upon,  and  rendered  cheerful  by  the  gay 
voices  of  its  inhabitants,  numberinc«-  at  least  a  million 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.         375 

of  human  leings.  If,  like  Rip  Van  Winkle,  we  may  be 
permitted  to  come  back,  after  the  lapse  of  half  a  cen 
tury,  with  what  surprise  and  astonishment  shall  we 
witness  the  change  which  the  enterprise  of  man  will 
have  wrought.  But  let  us  not  waste  a  moment  in 
dreaming  about  it.  Let  us  be  up  and  doing,  to  fulfil 
our  part  of  the  mighty  achievement.  It  would  not  be 
strange,  however,  if  the  present  map,  which  is  given  to 
show  the  rapid  growth  of  the  city,  by  comparison  with 
one  drawn  in  1728,  should  then  be  republished,  with  a 
similar  design,  to  exhibit  the  insignificance  of  New  Or 
leans  in  1845  !  We  ask  the  kindness  of  the  critics  of 
that  period,  should  they  deign  to  turn  over  these  pages, 
begging  them  to  consider  that  our  humble  work  was 
produced  as  far  back  as  the  benighted  age  of  steam !" 

The  stranger  starts  from  his  hotel,  at  New  Orleans, 
with  the  idea  that  he  will  go  down  to  the  river,  and  see 
the  "  alligators."  He  follows  the  sidewalk,  as  directed, 
but,  to  the  confusion  of  his  habitual  notion  of  where 
tide- water  should  be,  he  finds  presently  that  it  is  up  hill 
to  the  river  !  As  he  sees  the  shipping  from  a  distance, 
the  harbour  seems  to  be  on  the  second  story — the  city 
in  the  basement  and  the  Mississippi  on  the  parlour- 
floor  !  He  approaches  the  Levee,  a  pier  of  almost 
prairie  extent,  and  it  is  a  vast  slope  ascending  gradually 
to  the  water's  edge.  The  drays  are  tugging  up  hill  to 
the  vessel-sides.  The  wildernesses  of  cotton-bales  and 
sugar-hogsheads  look  as  if,  with  a  slight  push,  they 
would  all  roll  back  into  the  stores  to  be  sold,  of  their 
own  accord.  The  gutter's  vocation  seems  reversed — to 
bring  clean  water  in  to  the  town,  not  to  take  dirty  wa- 


376  HEALTH    TRIP    TO    THE    TROPICS. 

ter  out  of  it.  And — as  one  looks  up  from  a  street 
where  children  are  playing  and  thousands  of  men  and 
women  thronging  hither  and  thither  in  unsuspicious  se 
curity,  and  sees  the  slight  embankment  that  keeps  the 
most  powerful  of  rivers  from  rushing  down  upon  the 
scene  with  terrific  destruction — a  mud  wall  holding  a 
deluge  up  above  a  crowded  metropolis,  and  the  floods 
and  freshets  of  seventeen  thousand  miles  of  mountain 
and  valley  thus  precariously  guarded  against  and  held 
in  check — one  cannot  but  have  a  very  mingled  feeling, 
scarce  definable,  half  glad  to  belong  to  a  more  reliable 
high-and-dry-dom  oneself,  but  half  sad  for  the  horrible 
calamity  that  may  gather  any  hour  in  the  clouds,  for 
those  to  whom  this  is  a  home.  The  "  Guide-Book  " 
gives  us  what  little  can  be  hopefully  said  upon  the 
matter : — 

"  The  fear  is  often  entertained  that  the  levees  of  the 
Mississippi  are  not  sufficient  to  resist  the  great  body  of 
water  that  is  continually  bearing  and  wearing  upon 
them ;  and  these  fears  have,  in  several  cases,  been  real 
ized,- though  never  to  any  very  great  extent.  In  May, 
1816,  the  river  broke  through,  about  nine  miles  above 
New  Orleans,  destroyed  several  plantations,  and  inun 
dated  the  back  part  of  the  city  to  the  depth  of  three  or 
four  feet.  The  crevasse  was  finally  closed  by  sinking 
a  vessel  in  the  breach,  for  the  suggestion  and  accom 
plishment  of  which  the  public  was  chiefly  indebted  to 
Governor  Claiborne. 

"  In  June,  1844,  the  river  rose  higher  than  it  had 
done  for  many  years,  marking  its  whole  course,  for  more 
than  two  thousand  miles,  with  wide-spread  destruction 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  377 

to  property  and  life.  It  crept  over  the  levee  in  some 
places  near  New  Orleans,  but  caused  no  actual  breach 
in  that  vicinity.  At  Bonnet  Carre  it  forced  a  crevasse, 
doing  considerable  damage,  and  causing  great  alarm  in 
the  neighbourhood  ;  but  the  mischief  was  not  so  serious 
as  might  have  been  anticipated,  and  the  embankment 
has  been  so  increased  and  strengthened,  as  to  leave  but 
little  apprehension  for  the  future." 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  Mississippi  is  at  work 
like  ten  thousand  wheelbarrows,  dumping  dirt  upon  a 
ridge — its  own  bottom — 'Which  may  be  a  terraced  site 
for  the  city  hereafter.  Most  rivers  will  dig  and  carry 
away  dirt  from  their  own  channels — few  will  bring  and 
dump  it  there.  Instead  of  deepening  every  year,  the 
channel  is  constantly  rising  with  the  deposit  of  mud, 
and  the  embankments  of  the  Levee  are  correspondingly 
raised.  In  the  progress  of  time,  of  course,  it  will  be 
so  much  above  the  city  that  it  may  be  necessary  to 
turn  off  the  stream  upon  the  lowlands  on  the  opposite 
side,  and  then  the  present  gradually  elevating  bottom 
of  the  "  Father  of  "Waters  "  will  become  the  Broad 
way  of  New-Orleans,  its  highest  ridged  thoroughfare 
and  gayest  promenade.  This  naturally  slow  accretion 
is  increased  by  the  embankments  which  are  more  and 
more  confining  the  river  throughout  its  lower  length, 
and  the  changes  that  it  may  bring  about,  in  the  path  of 
its  navigable  waters  at  the  Mouth,  seems  to  be  already 
occasioning  serious  apprehension.  The  New  Orleans 


378          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

Bulletin,  in  a  recent  article,  thus  speaks  of  the  assist 
ance  necessary  to  be  given  by  steamers,  to  vessels  en 
tering  the  Mouth  of  the  Mississippi : 

"  But  towing  large  and  heavy  draughts  up  and  down 
stream  is  only  a  comparatively  small  part  of  the  busi 
ness  of  towboats,  as  we  have  before  observed.  After 
their  work  proper  is  done,  there  is  another  extra  labour 
to  be  performed,  in  the  execution  of  which  the  strength 
and  power  of  steam,  iron,  wood,  hawsers,  springs  and 
cordage  of  every  kind,  are  tested  to  their  utmost  ca 
pacity  of  endurance.  At  the  mouths  of  the  river  there 
are  barriers  to  the  ingress  and  egress  of  vessels  pro 
pelled  by  wind  and  sails  alone,  as  impassible  as  if 
constructed  of  solid  rock,  instead  of  plastic  mud. 
Through,  not  over,  these  mud  flats,  in  water  twelve  and 
fourteen  feet  deep,  ships  from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet 
draught,  are  dragged  by  these  boats.  Sometimes  they 
stick  and  hold  fast,  with  an  adhesiveness  which  it  seems 
no  power  can  overcome,  requiring  the  work  of  hours, 
often  clays,  and  even  weeks,  to  remove  them  from  their 
tenacious  moorings. 

"  The  mouths  of  the  Mississippi  (and  there  are  now 
only  two  that  are  used  at  all  for  the  passage  of  vessels 
of  even  tolerable  size)  are  so  choked  up  with  the  allu 
vion  that  is  brought  down  by  the  current,  and  deposited 
a.t  the  debouche  of  the  river,  that  they  are  impassable, 
without  the  application  of  steam  power,  and  no  vessel 
of  any  size  worth  speaking  of,  ever  attempts  to  cross 
the  bar,  inward  or  outward  bound,  without  the  aid  of  a 
towboat,  oftener  two,  and  frequently  four,  pulling  and 
dragging  her  through  the  mud  with  all  their  concentra 
ted  power,  at  a  snail's  pace.  This,  as  it  may  well  be 
supposed,  is  hard  and  tedious  work,  involving  often 
great  risk  of  property,  sometimes  jeoparding  life,  re 
quiring  consummate  skill  and  prudence,  and  always  at 
tended  with  serious  responsibility.  The  boarding  of 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          379 

a  large  ship  at  sea,  with  a  fresh  breeze  and  a  heavy 
swell,  (and  these  boats  sometimes  go  out  fifty  and  sixty 
miles,)  and  arranging  all  the  necessary  preliminaries  for 
towing  her  into  a  harbour,  is  a  nice  and  hazardous  un 
dertaking." 


LETTER    No,  42. 


THE  LEVEE,  (or  grand  single  quay  of  New  Orleans,) 
is  made  to  look  somewhat  Oriental  by  the  numerous 
tableaux  vivants  presented  by  the  overseers  and  their 
negro  labourers.  Under  a  moveable  awning,  stretched 
upon  four  poles,  and  stuck  any  where  among  bales  of 
merchandise,  reclines  a  gentleman  in  broad-brimmed 
straw  hat,  loose  cravat,  and  white  jacket,  never  with 
out  a  cigar  and  a  newspaper,  and  forming  a  centre  to 
the  Ethiop  group  around  him,  which  an  artist  would 
very  much  admire.  The  shining  negroes,  with  quite 
as  little  clothing  as  a  sculptor  would  accord  to  his  mo 
del,  are  almost  never  out  of  attitude  favourable  for 
sketch  or  daguerreotype — and,  indeed,  it  seemed  to  me, 
that  the  Levee,  from  one  end  to  the  other,  was  but  a 
series  of  capital  subjects  for  the  "Pictorials."  They 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          381 

would  only  not  do  as  illustrations  to  "  Uncle  Tom,"  for 
you  would  scarce  find  in  the  world  a  class  of  labourers 
who  are  as  habitually  cheerful  as  these  blacks ;  and  no 
white  working  men,  I  am  very  sure,  anywhere  in  Eu 
rope,  who  take  their  daily  task  half  as  easy.  For  a 
lean  or  discontented  one,  I  looked  in  vain.  And  this, 
I  confess,  somewhat  surprised  me — for,  in  New  Orleans, 
if  anywhere,  with  the  rush  of  business  in  the  mercantile 
season,  and  the  city's  renown  for  recklessness,  I  had 
expected  to  see  the  slave  hard  driven.  The  opportunity 
to  observe  them  here  is  large.  You  may  form  some 
idea  of  the  number  employed  on  this  one  pier,  from  an 
other  statistic  given  by  Norman.  In  1845  there  were 
three  thousand  drays  in  constant  employ  upon  the  Le 
vee — and  there  are  probably  three  negroes  to  one  dray, 
lading,  unlading,  and  driving. 

The  Alligator  crafts,  as  well  as  the  other  shipping, 
have  a  curiously  inquisitive  and  mere  morning-call  look, 
from  having  only  nose-room  at  the  water's  edge,  and 
from  the  slope  of  the  Levee  outward,  like  a  natural 
beach.  There  are  no  projecting  wharves,  and  no  per 
pendicular  abutment  against  which  a  vessel  could  be 
moored.  If  she  draw  too  much  water  to  come  close, 
a  long  plank  runs  off  from  the  sloping  descent  of  the 
shore  to  the  prow  or  stern ;  and  this  gives,  as  I  said 
before,  a  most  momentary  and  accidental  look  to  the 
whole  vast  multitude  of  boats  and  shipping.  The  flat- 


382          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

boats  are  unsightly  structures  enough.  They  are  built 
only  to  come  down  stream — and  are,  of  course,  of  the 
cheapest  construction  that  will  hold  together.  The 
cabins  are  made  to  serve  as  groceries,  bar-rooms,  dry- 
goods  stores,  music  saloons,  etc.  etc.,  on  the  voyage — 
and,  though  of  rough  boards  innocent  of  paint,  have 
such  splendid  names  as  "  The  Alhambra,"  "  Great 
Men's  Ketreat,"  "  Planters'  Exchange,"  "  Eotunda," 
etc. — the  walls,  meantime,  drying  into  higher-priced 
lumber,  while  fulfilling  this  intermediate  destiny. 

The  "  Alligators "  are  themselves  too  sharp-eyed 
to  be  easy  under  observation.  It  is  hard  to  find  one 
of  them  indifferent  to  your  eye,  or  so  carelessly  off  his 
guard  as  not  to  know  when  he  is  looked  at.  The  only 
kind  of  man  they  seem  not  to  notice  at  all  is  a  loud 
talker;  and  so  common  and  vulgarized  a  gift  does 
oratory  seem  to  be,  and  so  readily  does  drink  run  into 
it  in  the  West,  that  I  fancy  the  surest  way  to  observe, 
and  be  yourself  unobserved,  (at  least  in  the  most 
crowded  part  of  the  Levee,)  would  be  to  mount  upon  a 
hogshead,  and  appear  anxious  for  an  audience.  I  saw 
many  scenes,  or  parts  of  scenes,  scarcely  describable, 
where  there  was  a  most  curious  indifference  to  that 
which  excites  attention  or  moves  a  crowd  elsewhere — 
giving  one  the  impression  that  it  was  a  class  of  people 
so  familiarized  to  threat  and  violence,  that  nothing  in 
that  line,  short  of  a  bowie  knife  or  a  revolver,  would 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          383 

make  one  of  them  lift  an  eyelid.  Yet,  to  the  movements 
of  a  quiet  and  silent  stranger — one  who  would  wholly 
escape  notice  ordinarily — they  seemed,  on  the  contrary, 
unaccountably  attentive.  They  think  it  no  offence,  or, 
at  least,  one  for  the  consequences  of  which  they  are 
quite  ready,  to  sidle  up  and  listen  when  two  persons  are 
talking  quietly,  or  walk  round  a  man  and  survey  him 
like  a  wax  figure  in  the  museum.  Three  times  out  of 
four,  when  I  stopped  to  take  a  more  leisurely  gaze  at 
something,  I  found  myself  thus  walked  round  and  scan 
ned — partly  because  I  proved  myself  a  stranger  by  my 
curiosity,  probably — but  evidently  from  a  habit  of  neg 
lecting  no  indication  of  what  was  going  on.  And  this 
manifestation  of  mingled  cuteness  and  simplicity  is  made 
more  characteristic  by  a  peculiar  look  never  seen  in  a 
lower  class  in  Europe,  a  savage  unconsciousness  of  owing 
you  any  respect  whatever.  Personal  presence,  as  felt 
in  a  man  more  than  in  a  tree,  is  utterly  unacknowledg 
ed  by  the  alligator.  He  shows  you  this  in  his  face — 
in  a  sort  of  negative  insolence  of  expression,  quite  at 
your  service,  if  you  like  to  take  offence  at  it,  and  best 
explainable,  perhaps,  as  Yankee  independence  in  the 
fungus  state,  run  rank  with  over-luxuriance. 

I  fancy  that  it  is  from  there  being  no  interchange  of 
respect  between  him  and  any  other  man,  that  the  alli 
gator  is  so  reckless  of  his  personal  appearance.  He 
evidently  never  gives  it  a  thought.  The  contrast  is 


384          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

curious,  in  this  respect,  between  him  and  the  French 
labouring  man  or  mechanic  who  stands  shirt-sleeved  be 
side  him  on  the  Levee — the  latter  being  invariably  in 
high  physical  condition,  with  beard  all  grown,  form 
erect,  and  enough  care  in  his  dress  to  show  his  pro 
portions  to  the  best  advantage.  As  to  wrorldly  con 
dition  they  are  about  equals — yet  the  alligator,  with 
twice  the  energy,  twice  the  enterprise,  twice  the  pride 
of  the  other  man,  and  ten  times  his  capability  under 
emergencies,  looks  a  beggar  in  comparison.  He  buys 
articles  of  dress  at  hap-hazard,  lets  the  law  of  gravita 
tion  fit  and  arrange  them,  and  is  slovenly,  unwashed, 
and  half  buttoned — but  it  is  more  particularly  in  his 
way  of  moving  and  bearing  himself  that  he  shows  the 
absence  of  the  common  human  starch  of  remembered 
visibility.  He  sits  down  like  a  wet  rag,  simply  collaps 
ing  into  a  heap.  He  walks  with  a  stoop,  his  knees  bent 
forward  and  his  hat  carelessly  on  the  back  of  his  head, 
but  still  with  the  lithe  ease  with  which  a  cat  draws  one 
leg  after  the  other.  Though  probably  the  most  deadly 
and  formidable  combatant.that  could  possibly  be  enlist 
ed,  particularly  to  fight  "  on  his  own  hook,"  he  is  the 
most  unsoldierlike  looking  man  in  the  world.  I  noticed 
that  they  \vere  generally  oval-faced,  with  a  slighter  jaw 
bone  and  a  less  animal  construction  than  any  other  labor 
ing  class  I  had  ever  seen,  and  remarkably  slight-limbed 
hollow-chested  and  sallow — all  of  which  could  be  easily 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  385 

accounted  for  by  the  malaria  to  which  they  are  exposed 
and  their  peculiar  occupations;  though  how  the  mind 
has  quickened  and  the  character  formed  into  new  and 
strong  features  under  this  physical  deterioration,  is 
more  of  a  mystery. 


LETTER   No.  43 


NEW   ORLEANS    P1QUANCES. 

THERE  is  a  common  nuisance  in  New  Orleans,  the 
mention  of  which  to  a  London  beggar  would  make  his 
mouth  water,  viz  :  that  a  gentleman  brings  home  upon 
his  boots,  after  a  walk  on  the  Levee,  a  sugar  mud,  the 
scrapings  of  which  would  about  keep  a  small  family  in 
molasses.  The,  spillings,  from  the  innumerable  boxes 
and  hogsheads  of  this,  their  great  staple  of  merchan 
dise,  are  prodigally  careless  and  perpetual;  and  the 
sprinkle  of  the  water-carts  converts  it  into  a  saccharine 
cement,  which  is  most  inconveniently  adhesive.  From 
the  difficulty  I  found  in  removing  my  own  sweetness  of 
sole,  with  a  common  scraper,  after  every  walk  by  the 
river  side,  I  should  suppose,  (and  the  Messrs.  Berrian 
are  welcome  to  patent  the  idea  at  their  Museum  of 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          337 

wonderful  usefulness,)  that  a  door-mat,  with  something 
like  an  inverted  carpenter's  plane  imbedded  in  the  cen 
tre,  would  be  a  saleable  article  in  New  Orleans.  Clean 
floors  are  desirable  even  in  haunts  of  business;  and  la 
dies,  (those,  at  least,  who  find  time  to  think  of  their  car 
pets  during  a  gentleman's  morning  call,)  have  occasion 
sometimes,  of  course,  to  wish  that  the  remembrance  of 
the  pleasure  could  be  a  little  less  sweet  and  sticky. 


But,  as  if  New  Orleans  were  the  most  piquant  city 
in  the  world,  there  is  another  peculiar  liability  attached 
to  the  simple  matter  of  taking  a  walk  in  its  streets. 
With  the  elevation  of  the  bed  of  the  river  above  the 
level  of  the  town,  the  gutters,  of  course,  must  either 
flow  up  hill  to  find  an  outlet,  or  evaporate  at  their 
sulky  leisure.  The  latter  is  their  choice,  as  far  as  my 
observation  extended.  Hackney-vehicles  being  in  great 
demand,  at  the  same  time,  in  so  warm  a  climate,  and 
the  stands  for  these  conveniences  being  along  the  side 
walks  of  the  principal  streets — and  flies  (thirdly)  being 
active  and  numerous  amid  such  fecund  stagnation — the 
dashing  of  the  hoofs  of  kicking  horses,  into  the  pools 
along  which  you  walk,  and  in  which  they  stand  waiting 
for  your  custom,  is  as  perpetual  as  fly-biting  can  make 
it.  With  at  least  fifty  thousand  pair  of  white  panta 
loons  daily  exposed  to  the  broadsides  of  this  unsavoury 


388          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

artillery,  gentlemen  spotless  in  the  afternoon  are  of 
course  the  conspicuous  exceptions — a  clean  outside  to  a 
man's  leg  being  tolerable  evidence  that  he  has  not.  that 
day,  been  out  of  doors.  Like  the  yellow  fever,  for 
which  the  city  is  so  formidable,  at  a  distance,  however, 
this  trouser  varioloid  is  an  epidemic  to  which  the  inhab 
itants  themselves  are  curiously  indifferent.  The  stran 
ger  is  naturally  disturbed  by  it— .but  you  may  know  a 
resident  by  the  easy  nonchalance  with  which  he  makes 
his  bespattered  entrance  into  bar-room  or  hotel. 


Sitting  at  breakfast,  one  morning,  at  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel,  I  found  my  attention  interested  in  a  face  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  table,  and,  without  more  than  the  ca 
price  which  one's  fancy  thus  takes,  over  a  silver  fork,  I 
insensibly  made  quite  a  study  of  the  physiognomy  and 
manners  of  that  one  out  of  the  thirty  or  forty  persons 
breakfasting  around  me.  I  should  be  taking  a  liberty 
— not  having  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  gentleman, 
and  he  being  a  private  citizen  on  whom  the  digito 
monstrari  has  no  claim — to  do  more  than  allude  to  the 
genial  countenance  and  general  air  of  superiority  which 
thus  drew  my  attention ;  but,  a  friend  coming  in,  after 
a  while,  who  pointed  him  out  to  me  as  the  purchaser  of 
Powers'1  statue  of  the  Greek  SJave,  the  feeling  which  it 
stirred  made  an  event  of  rny  seeing  him,  for  which  I 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          389 

am  inclined  to  give  New  Orleans,  whose  citizen  he  is, 
the  tribute  of  such  mention  of  the  matter  as  I  find 
coming  to  the  tip  of  my  quill. 

That  beautiful  statue,  I  believe,  is  allowed  to  be  the 
triumph  of  modern  Art,  and  the  price  paid  for  it  was  a 
small  fortune.  I  cannot  very  well  explain  the  glow 
which  ran  through  my  blood  at  thus  unexpectedly  see 
ing  the  purchaser,  without  reminding  the  reader  how 
unequal  are  the  uses  of  money — how  the  same  dollar, 
for  instance,  spent  for  a  supper  with  an  indigestion, 
might  have  bought  the  needlework  of  a  sleepless  mo 
ther,  whose  toil  for  her  babes,  that  weary  night,  drew 
angels  to  look  down  upon  her  from  heaven. 

To  buy  a  creation  of  genius,  like  that  statue,  was  not 
the  mere  giving  of  ten  thousand  dollars  for  an  equiva 
lent.  The  price  was  noble — offered  with  a  noble  ap 
preciation  of  what  it  bought — but  there  was  so  much 
more  than  the  marble,  which  had  been  obedient  to  the 
money.  The  skill,  the  industry  and  the  perfected  ob 
ject  of  beauty  were  little  to  the  inner  life  which  had 
been  lived  for  it — the  glow  of  inspired  first  conception, 
the  streno-thening  of  self-confidence,  the  disciplining  ago 
nies  of  doubt  and  obscured  vision,  the  raptures  of  pro 
gressively  developed  ideal,  the  alternations  between  hope 
and  dread,  between  tears  and  triumphs — the  superhu 
man  portion,  we  may  almost  say,  of  the  history  of  ge 
nius.  And  there  sat  a  man  who  had  made  himself  the 


390          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

master  of  so  much  more  than  it  would  seem  possible  to 
bargain  for — a  Prospero  whose  wealth 

"Correspondent,  to  command, 
Doing  his  spiriting  gently," 

had  indeed  done  him  the  service  of  an  Ariel.  Why,  it 
seemed  to  me  like  seeing  a  potentate  who  had  exercised 
a  rare  kind  of  power.  It  was  better  than  seeing  a 
king.  And  I  trust  that  a  breakfast,  in  which  such  an 
event  could  occur,  will  be  thought  legitimately  within 
reach  of  the  traveller's  chronicle  of  adventure. 


I  find  it  takes  new  eyes  to  be  surprised  at  very 
thought-stirring  scenes,  sometimes ;  but,  to  give  a 
strong  instance  of  what  people  may  get  so  used-to  as 
to  give  over  looking  at  it  with  any  particular  curiosity, 
I  will  describe  what  was  set  out  upon  tico  tables  on  the 
opposite  sides  of  the  bar-room  of  my  hotel.  The 
reader  will  perhaps  remember  the  description  already 
given  of  this  drinking  saloon — a  vast  dome,  like  the  bo 
dy  of  a  cathedral,  around  which  the  hotel  is  built,  and 
to  which  it  seems  a  secondary  appurtenance.  It  is 
thronged  at  the  drinking  hour,  and,  on  the  morning  I 
speak  of,  I  had  gone  down  to  take  a  lounge  through  the 
crowd,  interested  as  always  in* the  faces  and  manners 
of  a  strange  city,  but  looking  for  no  special  novelty  be 
yond.  The  day  was  warm  and  the  drinkers  many.  I 


HEALTH   TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS.    39 1 

was  amused  with  the  usual  contrast,  as  I  went  in,  the 
architectural  sublimities  commonly  reserved  for  places 
of  sacred  resort,  (a  dome  sustained  by  lofty  columns, 
and  admitting  light  only  from  the  meridian  sky,)  enclos 
ing  a  throng  so  careless  and  lively.  I  strolled  along 
one  side,  and  saw  the  lunch-table  spread  out  with  ter 
rapin  soup,  olives,  sandiviches,  etc..  and  then,  with  a 
chance  turn,  I  crossed  the  crowded  floor  and  came  up 
on  another  table  on  the  opposite  side,  set  out  with — 
what  does  the  reader  suppose  ? — half  a  dozen  pretty 
and  nicely  dressed  negr  esses,  from  eighteen  to  twenty- 
five  years  of  age,  seated  in  chairs  upon  the  top  of  the 
table,  and  waiting  to  be  sold  presently  at  auction  ! 

And,  to  this,  nobody  was  giving  a  second  look. 
Groups  of  men  stood  about,  on  the  marble  floor  of 
the  vast  area,  with  hats  on  and  glasses  in  their  hands, 
conversing  gayly.  The  white-aproned  waiters  ladled 
out  the  soup.  The  gracious  and  gentlemanly  master- 
bar-keepers  stood  braiding  rainbows  across  their  firma 
ment  of  decanters  as  they  flung  the  ice  and  the  rosy  li 
quor  back  and  forwards  into  fragrant  contact  with  the 
mint.  Politics  were  talked  loud,  and  business  was 
talked  low.  But  it  was  not  quite  the  hour — lacking  a, 
few  minutes — when  the  destiny  of  these  other  warm 
dishes  was  to  be  decided. 

Feeling  themselves  to  be  wholly  unnoticed,  probably, 
the  negresses  were  perfectly  natural,  and  their  amused 


392          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

interest  in  the  scene  around,  was  sufficient  to  make 
them  as  gay  as  children  at  a  show.  The  front  of  the 
table  was  on  a  line  with  the  circle  of  columns,  and  it 
extended  back  across  the  corridor  in  the  rear — one  of 
the  women,  who  had  two  children  at  her  knee,  sitting 
back  against  the  wall  of  the  dome.  This  last  was  the 
only  one  whose  face  expressed  any  seriousness  or 
anxiety,  though  all  were  modest  in  their  cheerfulness, 
and  they  were  evidently  girls  of  good  conduct,  as  well 
as  in  admirable  bodily  condition.  Two  of  them  were 
really  handsome,  I  thought,  and,  by  the  taste  with 
which  their  bandannas  were  coifted,  they  had  inhaled  a 
little  of  the  French  atmosphere  of  the  city. 

The  auctioneer  mounted  a  chair,  presently,  and  the 
sale  proceeded — too  rapidly,  however,  for  any  very  crit 
ical  observation.  With  what  I  could  see  of  it,  I  was 
exceedingly  interested,  though,  of  the  crowd  around, 
no  one  else  except  the  bidders  seemed  to  have  the  curi 
osity  to  look  on.  The  girls  seemed  bashful  more  than 
anything  else,  dropping  their  eyes  as  the  auctioneer  told 
their  ages  and  qualities,  or  stealing  furtive  glances  at 
the  low-voiced  namers  of  the  dollars  they  might  be 
worth — their  vanity,  doubtless,  somewhat  excited  in 
watching  the  ladder  up  which  their  value  was  so  reluc 
tantly  ascending.  Imagination  might  paint  very  touch 
ing  pictures  from  this  scene.  It  was  over  before  I  had 
got  out  rny  "brushes  and  colours."  I  just  remember 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          393 

that  the  mother  looked  pleased  with  the  destiny  of  her 
self  and  her  children.  The  others  were  gone  without 
my  having  been  able  to  designate  even  their  prices — • 
deficient  as  of  course  I  was  in  the  practised  alacrity  of 
the  market.  But  I  looked  down,  from  the  gallery 
above,  upon  the  two  bare  tables,  later  in  the  day,  and 
indulged  reverie  over  the  contrasted  disposal  of  the  re 
spected  viands — the  stomach's  digestion  of  what  had 
been  spread  upon  one,  and  Fate's  digestion  of  what  had 
been  spread  upon  the  other. 


DESULTORY    NOTES 

AND 

INFORMATION  PICKED    UP   ON  THE  WAY. 

BREATHING,  which  is  among  the  negative  sensations  in 
other  climates,  seemed  to  me  a  positive  pleasure — as 
positive  as  delicious  feeding  when  hungry — in  the  balmy 
sea  of  the  Lesser  Antilles.  I  could  have  heartily  "  said 
grace"  after  every  breath.  Perhaps  my  nicer  and 
quicker  sensibility,  as  an  invalid  recently  from  a  harsh 
winter  at  the  North,  may  have  made  my  experience  a 
relief  as  much  as  an  enjoyment ;  but  it  was  a  bliss  of 
living,  which  kept  me  perpetually  conscious  of  the  en 
joyment  of  it.  Yet  it  was  probable  that  I  was  in  this 
latitude  at  its  most  favorable  season,  and  one,  too,  that 
is  a  brief  exception  to  the  rest  of  the  year.  Dr.  Evans 
(an  English  Physician)  thus  describes  the  usual  effect 
of  the  climate  upon  the  newly  arrived  French  officer 


396          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

and  soldier  sent  to  his  post  in  the  Islands  of  St.  Lucia 
or  Martinique  : — 

"  The  arterial  system  is  excited ;  the  blood  is  deter 
mined  to  the  surface  of  the  body ;  the  skin  is  either 
preternaturally  warm  and  dry,  or  covered  with  profuse 
perspiration.  There  is  a  desire  for  cool  drink,  which, 
when  taken  into  the  stomach,  increases  the  perspira 
tion,  until  the  clothes  become  saturated  with  moisture. 
The  skin  then  becomes  irritable,  and  covered  with  a 
lichenous  eruption,  known  by  the  name  of  "  prickly 
heat."  The  body  seems  to  have  acquired  an  inflamma 
tory  diathesis;  and,  if  blood  be  taken  from  a  person 
under  these  circumstances,  it  will  be  found  to  be  of  a 
brighter  color  than  in  Enrope." 

Speaking  of  the  effects  of  the  marshes  in  the  neigh 
borhood  of  "some  of  the  French  stations,  the  same  wri 
ter  says : — "  A  European,  or  a  native  after  a  long  resi 
dence  in  a  temperate  and  healthy  climate,  arriving  in 
these  places,  complains  of  a  feeling  of  weight  in  the  at 
mosphere,  a  something  which  resists  the  wish  for  exer 
tion  or  exercise.  Both  his  mind  and  body  are  op 
pressed  :  his  intellect  is  clouded  ;  his  spirits  are  low  and 
desponding,  and  all  pre-existing  love  of  enterprise  van 
ishes.  If  his  residence  be  protracted,  he  has  slight 
febrile  movements,  which  come  on  regularly  or  irregu 
larly,  not  sufficiently  severe  to  prevent  his  usual  avoca 
tions,  but  which,  nevertheless,  are  sufficient  to  induce 
him  to  throw  himself  on  a  sofa,  and  require  a  ppwerful 
resolution  to  combat.  In  this  manner  his  body  may 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.  397 

gradually  accommodate  itself  to  the  climate,  but  he  may 
consider  himself  fortunate  if  he  escape  so  easily.  In 
general,  if  he  be  guilty  of  any  imprudences,  he  feels 
restless  at  night,  and  can  only  sleep  during  the  cool  of 
the  morning.  He  feels  out  of  sorts ;  has  pains  in  the 
back  and  extremities,  as  if  from  fatigue ;  he  complains 
of  head-ache,  sickness,  and  nausea;  and,  if  these 
symptoms  are  not  attended  to  immediately,  suffers  what 
is  culled  an  attack  of  seasoning  fever" 

It  would  seern  that  the  long-sustained  opinion  of  the 
salubrity  of  change  to  warmer  climates  for  consumptive 
patients,  is  losing  ground,  even  with  the  medical  autho 
rities.  The  following  is  from  the  "  New7  York  Times  " 
of  a  recent  date  : — 

CLIMATE  ON  CONSUMPTION. — It  appears  that  the  medi 
cal  faculty  are  beginning  to  question  the  opinion  which 
has  so  long  prevailed  among  medical  men,  that  a  change 
of  climate  is  beneficial  to  persons  suffering  with  the 
consumption.  Sir  James  Clark,  of  England,  has  as 
sailed  the  doctrine  with  considerable  force,  and  a 
French  physician  named  Carriere,  has  written  against 
it;  but  the  most  vigorous  opponent  of  it  is  Dr.  Bur 
gess,  of  whom  a  recent  article  in  Chambers*  Edinburgh 
Journal,  which  we  find  condensed  in  a  Philadelphia  pa 
per,  gives  an  account. 

Dr.  Burgess  contends  that  climate  has  little  or  nothing 
to  do  with  the  cure  of  consumption,  and  that  if  it  had, 
the  curative  effects  would  be  produced  through  the 
skin,  and  not  the  lungs.  That  a  warm  climate  is  not  in 
itself  beneficial,  he  shows  from  the  fact  that  the  disease 
exists  in  all  latitudes.  In  India  and  Africa,  tropical 


398          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE    TROPICS. 

climates,  it  is  as  frequent  as  in  Europe  or  North  Amer 
ica.  At  Malta,  right  in  the  heart  of  the  genial  Medi 
terranean,  the  army  reports  of  England  show  that  one- 
third  of  the  deaths  among  the  soldiers  are  by  consump 
tion.  At  Nice,  a  favorite  resort  of  English  invalids,  es 
pecially  those  afflicted  with  lung  complaints,  there  are 
more  native-born  persons  die  of  consumption,  than  in 
any  English  town  of  equal  population, 

In  Geneva,  this  disease  is  almost  equally  prevalent. 
In  Florence,  pneumonia,  in  the  Doctor's  words,  "is 
marked  by  a  suffocating  character,  and  by  a  rapid  pro 
gress  towards  its  last  stage."  Naples,  whose  climate  is 
the  theme  of  so  much  praise  by  travellers,  shows,  in  her 
hospitals,  a  mortality  by  consumption  equal  to  one  in 
two  and  one-third,  whereas  Paris,  whose  climate  is  so 
often  pronounced  villanous,  the  proportion  is  only  one 
in  three  and  one-quarter.  In  Madeira  no  local  disease 
is  more  common  than  consumption.  The  Journal, 
adds : — 

"  The  next  position  of  Dr.  Burgess  is,  that  as  the 
beasts,  birds  and  fishes  of  one  region  die  in  another,  a 
change  of  climate  cannot,  unless  exceptionably,  be  ben 
eficial  to  an  invalid.  Notwithstanding  the  greater 
adaptability  to  climate  which  man  preserves,  the  hu 
man  constitution,  it  is  plain,  cannot  endure  changes  of 
temperature  without  being  more  or  less  affected"  by  it. 
The  frosts  and  thaws  of  England  have  corroded,  dur 
ing  the  lapse  of  ages,  the  solid  stone  on  it  of  which 
their  cathedrals  were  built.  In  like  manner  a  foreign 
climate  gradually  undermines  the  health.  Dr.  Burgess 
refers  to  the  shattered  constitutions  of  every  officer 
who  has  served  for  any  length  of  time  in  India;  and  to 
the  well-known  fact  that  children  born  of  white  parents 
in  India  are  delicate  as  a  class.  The  African,  as  we 
know,  by  the  experience  of  its  country,  cannot  endure 
severe  and  protracted  cold.  Canada  is  the  common 
grave,  as  well  as  refuge  of  fugitive  slaves.  If  such  is 
the  effect  of  changes  of  climate  on  persons  in  health, 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          399 

what  must  it  be,  argues  Dr.  Burgess,  on  invalids? 
And  he  fortifies  this  theoretical  conclusion,  by  remind 
ing  the  reader  that  it  is  not  only  the  natives  who  die  of 
consumption  in  Maderia,  but  that  the  grave-yards  of 
that  island  are  whitened  by  the  head-stones  of  thou 
sands  who  have  gone  there  for  health,  and  remained  to 
die. 

Persons,  not  professional,  imagine  that  the  consump 
tive  patient,  by  breathing  a  mild  atmosphere,  withdraws 
irritation,  and  leaves  nature  free  to  work  a  cure.  But 
this  notion  Dr.  Burgess  characterizes  as  entirely  erro 
neous.  It  is  through  the  skin,  not  through  the  lungs, 
he  contends,  that  a  warm  climate  acts  beneficially. 
When  a  sudden  change  in  the  temperature  produces  a 
chill,  cutaneous  perspiration  is  checked,  the  skin  be 
comes  dry  and  hard,  and  the  lungs  suffer  from  exces 
sive  action,  for  they  are  compelled  now  to  eliminate 
what  should  have  passed  off  through  the  skin.  The 
doctor  illustrates  this  by  referring  to  the  instantaneous 
relief,  which  is  generally  obtained  through  free  perspir 
ation,  where  difficult  breathing,  or  oppression  of  the 
chest,  have  been  occasioned  by  artificial  heat.  What 
is  best  for  consumptive  patients,  therefore,  is  an  equa 
ble  climate.  It  is  the  fluctations,  not  the  high  temper 
ature  of  a  climate,  that  is  injurious." 


The  statistics  of  the  Isles  of  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
along  which  our  steamer  glided  like  a  cruiser  among 
the  islands  of  Paradise — so  enjoyable  was  every  min 
ute,  with  scenery  and  intoxicating  balm  of  atmosphere 
— show  bountiful  provision  by  Nature,  with  bountiful 
drawbacks  as  well.  The  soil  of  St.  Lucia  and  Martin 
ique  is  stated  to  be  "twelve  times  more  productive  than 


400          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

that  of  Europe,  half  an  acre  being  sufficient  to  supply 
the  wants  of  a  man!"  In  the  valleys  and  alluvial 
plains  it  consists  of  a  deep  vegetable  mould,  mixed  with 
clay,  and,  in  the  more  elevated  positions,  of  red  earth. 
The  substratum  is  a  mixture  of  sand  and  ground.  The 
mere  enumeration  of  the  productions  of  St.  Lucia, 
(which  I  find  in  an  English  report  on  the  subject)  makes 
one's  mouth  water: — 

"  The  staple  productions  are  sugar,  coffee  and  cocoa. 
Maize  is  the  only  corn  grown  ;  it  is  principally  used  for 
poultry.  The  principal  spices,  dyeing-stuffs  and  med 
icinal  plants,  are  cinnamon,  ginger,  vanilla,  cloves, 
pimento,  nutmeg,  indigo,  Iogwood3  cassia,  aloes,  castor- 
oil,  quinquina,  cactus,  ipecacuanha,  jalap,  simaruba,  sar- 
saparilla,  and  lignum  vitae.  Yams,  edoes,  sweet  pota 
toes,  and  cassada  are  produced  in  great  abundance. 
The  other  leguminous  plants  and  esculents  are  cab 
bages,  cucumbers,  peas,  parsnips,  beans,  carrots,  salads, 
radishes,  egg-fruit,  beet-root,  celery,  mountain-cabbage, 
sorrel,  spinage,  pumpkin,  tomatoes,  succory,  ocros,  and 
calalou. 

"  All  the  delicious  fruits  of  the  West  Indies  and  ma 
ny  valuable  exotics  grow  to  perfection  in  St.  Lucia. 
The  most  attractive  are  the  pine-apple,  cocoa-nut, 
grape,  melon,  date,  fig,  sappodillo,  orange,  shaddock, 
lemon,  lime,  citron,  guava,  plantain,  fig-bananna,  man 
go,  star- apple,  pomegranate,  plum,  cherry,  mamee, 
grenadilla,  water-lemon,  avocado-pear,  chestnut,  tama 
rind,  bread-fruit,  cashew,  papaw,  bread-nut,  custard-ap 
ple,  golden  apple,  sugar-apple,  and  soursop.  The  quar 
ter  of  Soufriere  in  particular  is  justly  famed  for  the 
great  variety  and  exquisite  savour  of  its  fruits  and 
vegetables.  Its  pine-apple,  muscadine  grape,  melon, 


HEALTH      TRIP      TO     THE      TRbPICS.          401 

and  fig  are  considered  of  a  superior  quality  to  those 
produced  in  any  part  of  the  West  Indies. 

St.  Lucia  is  covered  with  forest  trees  of  every  form 
and  of  endless  variety.  They  are,  with  few  exceptions, 
indigenous  to  the  soil.  Many  of  them  furnish  valuable 
materials  for  buildinir,  nnd  some,  excellent  specimens 
of  fancy  wood.  The  locust,  or  native  mahogany, 
grows  in  great  profusion.  The  other  principal  trees  are 
the  palm  tree,  trumpet  tree,  oak,  white  cedar,  black  ce 
dar,  bully  tree,  poplar,  orange  tree,  cotton  tree,  sand 
box,  cinnamon'  tree,  Indian  fig  tree,  bamboo,  sandal 
wood,  cocoa-nut  tree,  satinwoocl,  mango  tree,  tamarind 
tree,  cashew  tree,  bread-fruit  tree,  calabash  tree,  citron 
tree,  date  tree,  mamee  tree,  manchineel,  soap  tree,  rose 
wood,  avocudo-pear  tree,  ironwood,  guava  tree,  laurel, 
bois  immortal,  bois  drable,  sour-orange  tree,  willow,  sea 
side  grape,  simaruba,  lignum  vitse,  acacia,  logwood, 
bois  riviere,  boistan,  acoma,  grigris,  angelin,  gommier 
chatanier-grand'  feuille,  pois  doux,  bois  violon,  bois 
sept  ans,  bois  pian,  barabara,  boit  d'  inde,  bois  flam 
beau,  galba,  mangrove,  macata,  rose  mohaut,  bois 
fourmi,  fromager,  balisier,  latanier,  paletuvier,  and 
fougere. 

The  domesticated  animals  are  the  same  as  those  of 
Europe,  whence  they  were  originally  imported.  Of  the 
horse,  ass,  ox,  mule,  cow,  hog,  sheep,  goat,  duck,  cock, 
hen,  turkey,  cat,  dog,  rabbit,  goose,  pigeon,  and  guinea 
bird,  there  are  various  species,  and  they  all  thrive  ad 
mirably.  The  woods  are  inhabited  by  the  wild  ox, 
musk  rat,  wild  hog,  iguana,  and  agouti,  which  afford 
excellent  sport  to  the  native  chasseurs. 

"  The  game  is  plentiful,  and  from  August  to  Novem 
ber,  the  shooting  season,  the  island  is  visited  by  a  great 
variety  as  well  as  quantity  of  birds.  Among  them  are 
the  partridge,  the  plover,  dove,  wild  pigeon,  parrot, 
snipe,  banana-bird,  egret,  thrush,  humming-bird,  water- 
hen,  crabier,  hawk,  galding,  ground-dove,  goat-sucker, 
swallow,  cuckoo,  wild  duck,  booby,  frigate,  trembler, 


402          HEALT-H     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

white-throat,  nightingale,  woodcock,  curlew  and  yellow- 
legs.  The.crabier  is  a  native  of  the  mountains,  and 
measures  generally  jive  to  six  feet  in  height,  and  six  feet 
from  iving  to  iving. 

"  The  fish  are  abundant  in  variety  : — the  sprat,  cut 
lass,  eel,  dolphin,  anchovy,  herring,  sole,  flounder,  mul 
let,  ray,  mackerel,  doctor,  flying-fish,  baraconta,  cap 
tain,  king-fish,  parrot-fish  and  snapper.  Crabs,  cram- 
fish,  and  lobsters,  are  in  great  abundance,  and  an  ama 
zing  quantity  of  sea  turtles,  and  delicious  small 
oysters." 

In  contrast  with  these  prodigalities,  which  make  hun 
ger  or  pauperism  wholly  unknown  in  these  islands,  it 
may  be  instructive  to  name  the  reptiles  and  insects :  — 

"  The  yellow  serpent  is  only  found  on  the  two  islands 
of  St.  Lucia  and  Martinique.  It  measures  between  six 
and  eight  feet  in  length,  and  its  bite  is  generally  fatal. 
There  are  numerous  other  serpents,  and  they  multiply 
amazingly — the  female  bringing  forth  from  thirty  to 
forty  young  ones  at  a  birth.  In  most  cases,  the  bite,  if 
immediately  attended  to,  may  be  effectually  cured,  and 
the  negroes  are  very  skilful  in  the  application  of  the 
various  specifics.  The  yellow  serpent  subsists  on  birds, 
insects,  and  poultry.  He  has  an  enemy,  and  a  formi 
dable  match,  in  the  cribo,  or  black  snake,  an  animal 
having  the  appearance  and  shape  of  the  serpent,  with 
out  his  noxious  power.  A  careless  observer  would  be 
liable  to  mistake  one  for  the  other.  In  every  encounter 
the  cribo  is  the  aggressor,  and  generally  comes  off  vic 
torious.  It  counteracts  the  mischievous  bite  of  the  ser 
pent  by  rolling  itself  on  the  plant  called  Pied-poule, 
and  returns  to  the  attack  with  renovated  strength. 
When  (as  is  frequently  the  case)  the  body  of  the  ser 
pent  is  larger  and  longer  than  that  of  the  snake,  the 
latter,  retaining  possession  of  its  prey,  feeds  upon  it  for 


HEALTH     TRIP      TO     THE     TROPICS.          403 

several  days,  gradually  sucking  in  such  portions  of  the 
carcase  as  may  be  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the  mo 
ment.  The  cribo  is  sometimes  found  with  the  lower 
parts  of  the  serpent  protruding  between  his  jaws. 

"  The  insects  are  the  scorpion,  wood-slave,  annulated 
lizard,  locust,  tarantula,  centipede,  blacksmith,  wasp, 
mosquito,  bat,  cockroach,  fly,  chigre,  beetle,  fire-fly, 
spider,  wood-ant,  butterfly,  bete-rouge,  caterpillar, 
cricket  and  bee.  Of  these  the  scorpion  and  centipede 
are  the  most  dangerous,  the  ant  and  wood-ant  the  most 
destructive,  the  mosquito  the  most  troublesome,  and 
the  cockroach  the  most  repulsive.  The  destruction 
caused  by  the  ant  is  generally  confined  to  plants  and 
flowers ;  but  the  depredations  of  the  wood-ant  extend 
to  the  houses,  furniture,  and  clothes  of  the  inhabitants; 
and  the  mischief  they  occasion  is  no  less  incredible  than 
the  promptitude  with  which  it  is  accomplished."  (The 
^sarne  nuisances  were  described,  not  long  since,  by  a 
"writer  in  the  Edinburgh  Review,  and  rather  humorous 
ly  : — )  "  The  bete-rouge  lays  the  foundation  of  a  tre 
mendous  ulcer.  In  a  moment  you  are  covered  with 
ticks.  Flies  get  entry  into  your  rnouth,  into  your  eyes, 
into  your  nose — you  eat  flies,  drink  flies,  and  breathe 
flies.  Lizards,  cockroaches,  and  snakes  get  into  your 
bed  ;  ants  eat  up  the  hooks  ;  scorpions  sting  you  on  the 
foot.  Every  thing  bites,  stings,  or  bruises ;  every  se 
cond  of  your  life  you  are  wounded  by  some  piece  of 
animal  life.  An  insect  with  eleven  legs  is  swimming  in 
your  tea-cup — a  nondescript  with  nine  wings  is  strug 
gling  in  the  small  beer,  or  a  caterpillar  with  a  dozen 
eyes  in  its  belly  is  hastening  over  the  bread  and  butter. 
All  Nature  is  alive,  and  seems  to  be  gathering  her  en 
tomological  hosts  to  eat  you  up,  as  you  stand,  out  of 
your  coat,  waistcoat  and  breeches.'' 


404          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

The  alarming  increase  in  the  frequency  of  earth 
quakes  and  hurricanes  in  the  Antilles,  threatens,  omin 
ously,  the  depopulation  of  their  white  inhabitants  ;  and 
the  ever-increasing  power  of  the  negroes,  by  their  more 
rapid  re-production  and  constitutional  adaptation  to  the 
climate,  will,  in  all  probability,  soon  give  over  these 
beautiful  islands  to  an  exclusive  black  population.  The 
negro  is  the  better  soldier  in  these  latitudes.  "  Stout, 
agile,  expert  in  the  use  of  arms,  he  can  also  endure  pa 
tiently  the  scorching  sun  and  the  torrents  of  rain  of  the 
tropical  climate.  He  can  live  on  the  roots,  or  on  what 
grows  spontaneously  or  with  little  culture  in  the  fields  ; 
and  being  bold  and  cunning,  he  is  ready  to  oppose  his 
enemies  by  force,  or  deceive  them  by  stratagem."  Pro 
perty,  in  that  island  of  gardens,  Santa  Cruz,  (I  was 
authentically  informed,)  is,  at  present,  almost  valueless 
from  these  causes,  and  considered  as  quite  unsaleable. 

But,  of  the  earthquakes  which  are  now  becoming  the 
perpetual  terror  of  the  Caribbean  Archipelago,  the  one 
in  the  Island  of  Gaudaloupe  in  1843,  was  the  most 
frightful  on  record.  It  took  place  in  the  forenoon  ;  and, 
on  the  night  preceding,  there  had  been  a  grand  ball, 
which,  with  the  sitting  of  the  Court  of  Assize,  had 
drawn  in  the  population  from  the  country  around,  in 
great  numbers.  The  town  of  Pointe-a-Petre,  which 
was  the  scene  of  it,  though  not  the  seat  of  government, 
was,  in  fact,  the  capital  of  the  Island,  and  for  the  ele- 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          405 

ganceof  its  buildings,  both  public  and  private,  and  the 
extent  of  its  mercantile  relations,  it  was  considered  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  cities  in  the  West  Indies.  A 
\\riter  of  great  graphic  power  thus  describes  this  aw 
ful  calamity  : — 

<(  The  Court  of  Assize  had  just  assembled  for  the 
administration  of  human  justice  ;  the  principal  hotel  was 
thronged  with  strangers  and  planters  from  the  interior, 
discussing  matters  of  business,  or  seated  together  at  the 
table-d'hote  ;  and  on  the  quays  and  along  the  streets, 
trade  and  traffic  were  proceeding  with  their  wonted 
bustle  and  activity.  At  the  fatal  hour  of  twenty-five 
minutes  to  eleven,  there  was  heard  a  noise,  a  hollow, 
rolling,  rumbling  noise,  as  of  distant  unbroken  thunder; 
the  sea  dashed  tumultuously  on  the  beach;  the  earth 
heaved  convulsively  and  opened  up  in  several  places, 
emitting  dense  columns  of  water.  In  an  instant  all  the 
stone  buildings  had  tumbled  to  the  ground — a  wide 
spread  heap  of  rubbish  and  ruins  :  and  in  that  one  in 
stant — a  dreadful  and  destructive  instant— -five  thousand 
human  beings,  torn  from  their  families  and  friends,  were 
ushered  into  the  abyss  of  eternity.  But  the  work  of 
desolation  did  not  stop  here ;  hardly  had  the  earth 
quake  ceased  its  ravages,  when  a  fire  broke  out  in  seve 
ral  places  at  once — and  such  were  the  terror  and  confu 
sion  of  the  surviving  inhabitants,  that  not  a  single  house 
was  rescued  from  the  flames.  In  another  instant  the 
pile  was  lit  up — the  devouring  element  was  sweeping 
over  the  immense  holocaust ;  and  a  loud  shriek  from 
the  living,  and  a  long  and  lingering  groan  from  the  dy- 
ino-,  had  told  the  tale  and  sealed  the  doom  of  Pointe-a- 
Petre. 

"  The  scenes  of  horror  that  followed,  it  would  be 
difficult  to  describe.  Fathers  ran  about  in  search  of 
their  children — children  screamed  aloud  for  their  mo 
thers — mothers  for  their  husbands — husbands  for  their 


406          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

wives;  and  the  wild  and  wailing  multitude  that  wan 
dered  over  the  ruins,  in  search  of  a  mother,  a  father,  a 
husband,  a  child,  a  brother,  a  sister,  or  a  friend,  found 
nothing  but  headless  trunks  and  severed  limbs.  Rich 
and  poor,  black  arid  white,  planter  and  peasant,  mas 
ter  and  slave — all  lay  confounded  in  one  vast  sepulchre 
— all  were  crushed,  calcined  or  consumed — all  hushed 
in  the  shadow  of  death  or  the  silence  of  despair. 

"  The  night  that  succeeded  was  a  night  of  wretched 
ness  and  want — of  sorrow  and  suffering — twelve  thou 
sand  inhabitants,  without  food,  without  raiment,  with 
out  money,  without  means,  without  house,  or  home,  or 
hope,  had  sought  refuge  under  a  temporary  tent,  erect 
ed  in  the  open  air.  Who  can  depict,  who  imagine,  the 
visions  of  darkness  and  danger  that  haunted  these 
widowed  thousands,  weeping  over  the  burning  remains 
of  the  departed  city  ?  Three  days  did  the  devouring 
element,  fed  in  its  progress  by  a  forest  of  projecting 
timbers,  continue  with  unabated  fury  ;  three  nights  did 
the  funeral  pile  send  forth  its  lurid  glare — a  beacon  to 
mariners,  pointing  to  where  Point-a-Petre  stood  no 
more. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  the  task  of  exploration 
began  ;  but,  to  enable  the  workmen  to  proceed  without 
danger,  it  became  necessary  to  batter  down  several 
walls  and  portions  of  houses,  whose  shattered  impend 
ing  fragments  threatened  destruction  on  all  sides.  In 
the  space  of  one  week,  six  thousand  bodies  were  dug 
out  of  the  ruins,  fifteen  hundred  of  which  were  still  liv 
ing,  but  mostly  in  a  horrible  state  of  mutilation.  These 
were  immediately  removed  to  the  town  of  Basse-terre, 
and  placed  under  medical  care;  yet,  sad  to  say,  not 
more  than  one-third  of  them  recovered.  With  regard 
to  the  dead  bodies,  an  attempt  was  made,  at  first,  to 
have  them  buried  in  the  public  cemetery ;  but,  as  the 
exploration  proceeded,  so  many  were  found  that  it  was 
resolved  to  have  them  sunk  in  the  sea.  At  this  melan 
choly  task  hundreds  of  boats  were  employed  for  several 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.        407 

days.  At  length  the  inconvenience  of  the  floating 
corpses,  many  of  which  were  washed  ashore,  compelled 
the  authorities  to  resort  to  the  expedient  of  burning 
them  in  Leaps — and  this  proceeding  continued  till  the 
whole  were  dug  out  and  consumed.  Some  of  the  sol 
diers  employed  in  the  task  had  gone  mad,  doubtless 
from  the  harrowing  impression  produced  by  the 
sight" 


I  must  confess  to  have  been  considerably  interested  in 
the  colored  population  of  the  Antilles.  As  they  will, 
unquestionably,  soon  become  the  masters  of  these 
islands,  curiosity  as  to  their  capabilities  of  progress 
was  natural  enough  ;  but,  besides  this,  there  is  some 
thing  in  the  look,  mien,  countenance  and  manners  of 
the  negroes  there,  which  was  the  "  shadow  cast  before 
the  coming  event."  I  took  many  notes  of  peculiarities 
that  struck  me,  from  time  to  time,  but  it  would  require 
much  discriminating  labor  to  make  their  contradictory 
chronicles  read  plausibly  or  intelligibly.  In  a  volume 
kindly  given  me  by  the  English  Consul  at  Martinique, 
(a  gentleman  whose  courteous  dignity  and  intelligence 
eminently  adorn  his  office)  I  found  some  most  valuable 
and  curious  information  on  this  subject.  The  book, 
though  printed  in  London,  is  one  not  likely  to  have 
been  met  with,  by  the  American  reader.  Its  author, 
Henry  Breen,  was  thirteen  years  a  resident  in  the 
island  a  few  miles  from  Martinique,  (St.  Lucia,)  and 


408          HEALTH      TRIP      TO    THE      TROPICS. 

he  writes  most  graphically  and  under  standingly  of  the 
people  of  these  latitudes.  I  do  not  think  I  can,  in  any 
way,  throw  more  light  on  the  character  and  grade  of 
negro  habits  and  manners  here,  than  by  quoting  a  por 
tion  of  his  account  of  them. : — 

"  The  Negro  language  is  a  jargon  formed  from  the 
French,  and  composed  of  words,  or  rather  sounds, 
adapted  to  the  organs  of  speech  in  the  black  popula 
tion.  As  a  patois  it  is  even  more  unintelligible  than 
that  spoken  by  the  Negroes  in  the  English  Colonies. 
Its  distinguishing  feature  consists  in  the  suppression  of 
the  letter  "  r  "  in  almost  every  word  in  which  it  should 
be  used,  and  the  addition  of  "  Jctis  "  and  "  ka's  "  to  as 
sist  in  the  formation  of  the  tenses.  It  is,  in  short,  the 
French  language,  stripped  of  its  manly  and  dignified 
ornaments,  and  travestied  for  the  accommodation  of 
children  and  toothless  old  women.  I  regret  to  add 
that  it  has  now  almost  entirely  superseded  the  use  of 
the  beautiful  French  language,  even  in  some  of  the 
highest  circles  of  colonial  society.  The  prevalence  of 
this  jargon  is  one  of  the  many  disadvantages  resulting 
from  a  want  of  educational  institutions.  It  is  the  refuge 
of  ignorance,  and  the  less  you  know  of  French,  the 
greater  aptitude  you  have  for  talking  Negro ;  a  child 
three  years  old  will  speak  it  more  fluently  than  a  man 
of  thirty.  I  can  say  for  myself  that,  although  possess 
ing  an  extensive  knowledge  of  the  French  language, 
acquired  during  a  sojourn  of  five  years  in  France,  I 
have  failed  in  obtaining  any  thing  like  an  adequate  no 
tion  of  this  gibberish,  during  a  residence  of  nearly  fif 
teen  years  in  St.  Lucia  and  Martinique.  Having  re 
marked  that  I  was  laughed  at  by  the  Negroes  w-henever 
I  attempted  to  use  it  in  conversation,  I  have  adopted 
the  plan  of  addressing  them  in  my  best  French — and 
now  the  laugh  is  all  on  my  side.  Nothing  can  be  more 


HEALTH    T  11  I  P    TO    THE    TROPICS.  409 

amusing  than  the  faces  they  put  on  to  convince  you 
that  they  are  unable  to  understand  French.  "  Pas 
tan'1'1  (Je  rfcntends  pas)  is  the  repl^  to  every  observa 
tion  ;  but  the  truth  is,  they  often  pretend  ignorance  in 
order  to  allure  you  into  their  own  soft,  silly  dialect, 
whose  accents  are  always  nattering  to  their  ears,  how 
ever  imperfectly  it  may  be  spoken. 

Nor  is  this  corruption  of  the  language  confined  to  mere 
words :  it  also  extends  to  proper  names ;  so  much  so, 
indeed,  that  there  are  few  persons  in  the  island  that  are 
not  designated  by  any  name  but  their  own.  Some  have 
the  sobriquets  of  Moncoq,  Montout,  Fan/an,  Laguerre. 
Others  have  their  names  mollified  by  means  of  certain 
dulcet,  endearing  terminations :  thus,  Anne  becomes 
Annzie,  Catherine  Caliche,  Besson  Bessonnette :  whilst 
the  greater  number,  dropping  altogether  the  names  given 
them  at  the  baptismal  font,  have  adopted  others  of 
more  modern  vogue.  Jean  Baptiste  is  supplanted  by 
Nelson  ;  Francois  by  Francis  ;  Cyprien  by  Cammille  ; 
and  what  is  still  more  preposterous,  not  only  are  the 
Christian  names  altered  in  this  way,  but  the  patronymics 
of  many  are  entirely  suppressed.  M.  Jean  Marie  Beau- 
regard  considers  Jean  Marie  too  vulgar,  and  adopts  the 
name  of  Alfred,  and  his  friends  consider  Beauregard 
too  long,  and  omit  it  altogether  in  their  dealings  with 
him.  By  this  process  M.  Jean  Marie  Beauregard  is 
metamorphosed  into  plain  M.  Alfred •  and  his  wife,  if 
any  he  have,  goes  by  the  name  of  Madame  Alfred. 
This  confusion  of  names  would  be  merely  ludicrous,  if 
it  were  not  pregnant  with,  mischief  to  the  community. 
From  being  first  sanctioned  by  intercourse  of  every-day 
life  and  introduced  into  family  circles,  the  alterations 
and  substitutions  had  gradually  crept  into  the  more 
serious  relations  of  trade  and  litigation  ;  so  that,  when 
the  Commissioners  of  Compensation  were  about  to  ad 
judicate  upon  the  claims  and  counter  claims  from  St. 
Lucia,  scarcely*  a  single  individual  was  found  to  have 
invariably  preserved  his  proper  name  in  the  different  doc- 
18 


410          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS. 

uments  submitted  on  his  behalf.  Difficulty  and  delay 
were  the  result;  and  many  persons  only  succeeded  in  es 
tablishing  their  iotentitty  and  securing  their  fortunes,  by 
obtaining  affidavits,  certicates  of  baptism,  and  notarial 
attestations,  at  considerable  expense,  from  various  parts 
of  the  world. 

The  higher  class  of  Creoles  are  distinguished  for  their 
courteous  manner  and  cordial  hospitality.  Although 
few  amongst  them  ever  attain  any  eminence  in  literary 
or  scientific  pursuits,  they  are  nevertheless  generally  in 
telligent  and  well-informed.  The  practice  of  duelling, 
so  common  in  their  "  days  of  chivalry,"  has  now  almost 
totally  disappeared.  Impelled  by  a  mistaken  or  exag 
gerated  principle  of  honor,  they  were  wont  to  seek  rep 
aration  in  single  combat  for  the  most  trivial  injuries — 
nor  were  they  deterred  from  such  exhibitions  by  the 
stringent  laws  of  Louis  XIV.,  them,  as  now,  in  force  in 
St.  Lucia.  In  those  days  no  scion  of  colonial  aristoc 
racy  was  deemed  qualified  to  enter  on  the  business  of 
life,  until,  in  the  phraseology  of  their  code  of  honor,  he 
had  given  proof  in  a  duel  of  his  daring  and  dexterity. 
To  have  shot  his  man  and  debauched  his  friend's  wife, 
were  the  surest  recommendations  to  honor  and  dis 
tinction — without  these  he  was  held  incompetent  to  as 
sume  the  solemn  duties  of  a  husband  and  a  father  ; 
without  these  he  was  exposed  to  the  taunts  and  trials, 
the  sneers  and  slander  of  the  self-styled  brave.  Now-a- 
days,  however,  this  disgraceful  practice  is  only  resorted 
to  in  extreme  cases.  The  example  of  our  neighbours 
of  Martinique,  by  whom  the  fashion  of  duelling  was 
once  regarded  as  the  pink  of  gallantry,  and  the  "ne 
plus  ultra"  of  social  refinement,  contributed  in  no  small 
degree  to  promote  a  bellicose  disposition  amongst  our 
friends  in  St.  Lucia ;  and  the  abatement  of  the  evil  in 
the  "  Faubourg  St.  Germain  du  Golf  du  Mexique,"  has 
produced  a  kindred  feeling  and  corresponding  results 
in  the  once  sister  Colony  of  St.  Lucia.  - 

The  creole  women  are  a  race  apart ;  and,  as  far  as  I 


HEALTH     TRIP    TO     THE     TROPICS.          411 
• 

am  able  to  judge,  are  not  inferior  to  those  of  any  coun 
try  for  elegance  of  form,  gracefulness  of  carriage,  sua 
vity  of  temper,  and  buoyancy  of  disposition.  To  them 
may  be  truly  applied  Lord  Byron's  description  of  the 
Italian  woman  : — 

"  Heart  on  her  lips,  and  soul  within  her  eyes, 
Soft  as  her  clime,  and  sunny  as  her  skies." 

Dancing,  with  its  train  of  airy  and  gaysome  evolu 
tions,  is  the  idol  passion  of  the  fair  creole ;  and  in  no 
place  or  position  do  her  delicate  beauty  and  exquisite 
loveliness  appear  to  greater  advantage  than  amidst  the 
attractions  and  superficial  excitement  of  the  ball  room. 
Even  the  dance  itself  is  not  with  her  what  it  is  in 
the  more  extended  circles  of  European  society — a  thing 
of  attitudes  and  gestures — a  round  of  skimming  and 
shuffling.  Here  it  is  all  gravity  and  decorum — there 
nothing  but  nutter  and  frivolity.  In  France  it  is  the 
wild  creation  of  fashionable  extravagance;  between  the 
tropics  a  chastened  and  rational  exercise,  which  is  often 
carried  to  the  utmost  extent,  without  infringing  any  of 
the  decencies  of  life. 

Amongst  the  lower  orders  the  dance  exercises  a  still 
greater  influence.  Not  satisfied  with  aping  those  above 
them  in  finery  and  dress,  the  Negroes  carry  their  love 
of  dancing  to  the  most  extravagant  pitch — much  too 
extravagant  perhaps  for  their  means.  True,  the  evil 
has  its  bright  side  in  the  encouragement  of  trade  and 
the  promotion  of  a  spirit  of  emulation  and  industry 
amongst  the  labouring  classes ;  but  it  must  greatly  im 
pair  their  physical  energies,  if  it  does  not  ultimately 
mar  their  independence.  The  best  that  can  be  said  of 
it  is,  that  it  is  inherent  in,  and  common  to,  all  colonial 
populations  of  French  origin — and  that  it  is  not  to  be 
put  down  either  by  preaching  or  persecution.  The 
spoiled  children  of  artificial  enjoyment,  French  Negroes, 
like  their  betters,  will  have  their  feasts  and  festivals, 
their  dressing  and  dancing.  Let  us  hope  that  these  re- 


412          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

• 

creations  may  long  continue  to  preserve  their  primaeval 
character  of  innocence  and  simplicity — nor,  by  contact 
with  fashion  and  false  refinement,  become  the  vehicles 
of  corruption  and  crime. 

In  order  to  gratify  their  propensity  for  dancing,  the 
Negroes  have  formed  themselves  into  two  divisions,  or 
"  societies,"  under  the  somewhat  fantastic  style  of 
"Hoses"  and  "Marguerites."*  These  "societies"  exist 
by  immemorial  usage  in  the  French  colonies,  and  are 
still  to  be  found  in  more  or  less  activity  in  St.  Lucia, 
Dominica,  and  Trinidad.  The  history  of  the  Antilles 
is  involved  in  such  total  obscurity  in  all  that  concerns 
the  black  population,  that  it  would  be  impossible  at  the 
present  time  to  trace  the  origin  of  the  Roses  and  Mar 
guerites.  It  appears  that  at  one  period  they  wrere  in 
vested  with  a  political  character  ;  and  their  occasional 
allusions  to  English  and  French,  Republicans  and 
Bonapartists  would  seem  to  confirm  this  impression. 
Their  connection  with  politics  must  have  ceased  at  the 
termination  of  the  struggle  between  England  and 
France,  from  which  period  their  rivalry  has  been  con 
fined  to  dancing  and  other  diversions. 

These  societies,  which  had  remained  almost  in  abey 
ance  during  the  latter  days  of  slavery,  have  been  re 
vived  within  the  last  five  years  with  unusual  eclat  and 
solemnity.  Although  few  persons,  besides  the  labour 
ing  classes  and  domestic  servants,  take  any  active  part 
in  their  proceedings,  there  is  scarcely  an  individual  in 
the  island,  from  the  Governor  downwards,  who  is  not 
enrolled  amongst  the  partisans  of  one  coterie  or  the 
other.  The  Roses  are  patronized  by  Saint  Rose,  and 
the  flower  of  that  name  is  their  cherished  emblem. 
The  Marguerites  are  in  the  holy  keeping  of  Saint  Mar 
guerite,  and  the  Marguerite,  or  bachelor's  button,  is  the 
flower  they  delight  to  honour.  Each  society  has  three 
kings  and  three  queens,  who  are  chosen  by  the  suffra- 

*  The  Marguerites  are  also  sometimes  called  "  Wadeloes." 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TJIOPICS.  413 

ges  of  the  members.  The  first,  or  senior,  king  and 
queen  only  make  their  appearance  on  solemn  occasions, 
such  as  the  anniversary  of  their  coronation  or  the  fete 
of  the  patron  saint  of  the  society  :  on  all  other  emer 
gencies  they  are  represented  by  the  kings  and  queens 
elect,  who  exercise  a  sort  of  vice-regal  authority.  The 
most  important  personage  next  to  the  sovereign  is  the 
chanterelle,  or  female  singer,  upon  whom  devolves  the 
task  of  composing  their  Belairs*  and  of  reciting  them 
at  their  public  dances.  Each  society  has  a  house  hired 
in  Castries,  in  which  it  holds  its  periodical  meetings. 
Here  the  wroman,  whose  attendance  is  much  more  regu 
lar,  than  that  of  the  men,  assemble  in  the  evening  to  re 
hearse  some  favourite  "  belair  "  for  their  next  dance,  or 
to  receive  a  lecture  from  the  king,  who  may  be  seen  at 
one  end  of  the  room,  pacing  up  and  down  with  an  air 
of  dignity  and  importance  suited  to  his  station.  If  any 
member  has  been  guilty  of  improper  conduct  since 
their  last  meeting,  the  king  takes  occasion  to  advert  to 
it  in  terms  of  censure,  dwelling  with  peculiar  emphasis 
upon  the  superior  decorum  observed  by  the  rival  so 
ciety.  Gross  misconduct  is  punished  by  expulsion  from 
their  ranks. 

The  "belairs"  turn  generally  on  the  praises  of  the 
respective  societies  ;  the  comparative  value  of  the  Rose 
and  the  Marguerite ;  the  good  qualities,  both  physical 
and  mental,  of  individual  members  ;  the  follies  and  foi 
bles  of  the  opposite  party,  and  of  persons  supposed  to 
be  connected  with  or  favourable  to  them.  Nothing  can 
surpass  the  poetical  fecundity  of  the  chanterelles :  al 
most  every  week  produces  a  fresh  effusion  and  a  new 
belair.  Some,  indeed,  are  of  a  higher  order  than  one 
would  be  entitled  to  look  for  from  untutored  Negroes: 
and  it  is  but  natural  to  suppose  that  they  are  assisted 

*The  Beia'r  is  a  sort  of  pastoral  in  blank  verse,  adapted  to  a 
peculiar  tune  or  air.  Many  of  these  airs  are  of  a  plaintive  and 
melancholy  character,  and  some  are  exquisitely  melodious. 


414          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

in  these  by  their  friends  among  the  educated  classes. 
Of  this  description  are  the  following  stanzas  in 
of  the  Roses,  which  appeared  in  print  in  1840  : — 


LES   ROSES. 


Venez,  amis ;    venez,  dansons ; 
De  Sainte  Rcse  c'est  la  fete  : 
Disons  pbur  elle  nos  chansons, 
Et  que  chacun  de  nous  repete  : 
Chantons,  amis ;  rions,  dansons. 

C'est  aujourd'hui  jour  d'allegresse  ; 
Nargue  des  soucis,  des  chagrins  ; 
A  nous  le  plaisir  et  1'irresse, 
A  nous  les  vifs  et  gais  refrains. 

Venez,  &c. 

Des  fleurs  la  Rose  esfc  la  plus  belle : 
"  Par  mon  parfum,  par  mes  couleurs, 
"Par  mon  eclat,  je  suis,  dit-elle, 
"  Oui,  je  suis  la  reine  des  fleurs  !" 

Venez,  &c. 

Sur  sa  tige  trist  et  fletrie 
La  Marguerite  nait,  perit; 
Mais  la  Rose,  toujours  fleurie, 
Renait  toujouirs  et  reverdit 

Venez,  &c. 

La  Rose  est  la  reine  du  monde, 
Elle  est  aussi  celle  des  amours  ! 
Qu'  a  nos-chansons  chacun  reponde 
Vive  la  Rose  pour  toujours  ! 

Venez,  &c. 


The  occasions  of  festivity  and  dancing  are  ushered  in 
with  universal  demonstrations  of  gaiety  and  joyous- 
ness.  After  assisting  at  a  solemn  service  commemora 
tive  of  the  day,  the  Messieurs  and  Dames,  decked  out 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE      TROPICS.          415 

in  their  most  costly  dresses,  proceed  in  groups  to  visit 
their  friends  amongst  the  higher  classes,  distributing 
cakes  and  flowers  in  honour  of  the  fete.  The  costume 
of  the  men  diners  little  from  that  commonly  worn  by 
gentlemen  in  England  or  France.  The  silk  or  beaver 
hat,  the  cloth  coat,  the  swelled  cravat,  the  sleek  trow- 
sers,  the  tassel ed  cane — in  short,  the  whole  tournure 
and  turn-out  of  the  male  exquisites,  would  do  honour 
to  Bond-street  or  the  Palais  Koyal.  But  the  dress  of 
the  women  is  quite  another  affair:  although  in  many  in 
stances  the  Jupe*  has  given  way  to  the  regular  English 
gown ;  yet,  on  fete  days,  the  former  re-asserts  its  pre 
ponderance,  as  being  more  in  harmony  with  the  general 
costume.  First  you  have  the  head-dress  set  off  by  the 
varied  and  brilliant  colours  of  the  Madras  handker 
chief,  erected  into  a  pyramid,  a  cone,  or  a  castle,  ac 
cording  to  the  fancy  of  the  wearer,  and  spangled  over 
with  costly  jewels;  next  a  huge  pair  of  ear-rings  of 
massive  gold;  then  several  gold  and  coral  necklaces, 
tastefully  thrown  over  the  dark  shoulders ;  then  the  em 
broidered  bodice  trimmed  with  gold  and  silver  tinsel ; 
and  lastly,  the  striped  jupe  of  silk  or  satin,  unfolding 
its  bright  tints  and  broad  train  to  the  breeze.  Add  to 
these  a  profusion  of  bracelets  and  bouquets,  of  foulards 
and  favours,  and  you  will  have  a  faint  impression  of 
this  bizarre  yet  brilliant,  grotesque  but  gorgeous  cos 
tume.  Thus  travestied  the  dancers  proceed  at  sunset 
to  the  place  appointed  for  the  bamboula.\  A  circle  is 
formed  in  the  centre  of  some  square  or  grass-plot.  On 


*  The  Jape  is  a  species  of  gown  worn  by  the  Negresses  and 
some  of  the  coloured  women  in  the  French  Antilles  Having 
neither  sleeves  nor  bodice,  it  presents  the  exact  dimensions  of  a 
petticoat — hence  the  name. 

f  The  Negro  dances  are  of  two  kinds — the  ball  and  the  bam- 
boula.  When  conducted  within  doors  it  is  always  called  a  ball — 
when  "sub  dio  "  a  bamboula.  The  use  of  them  varies  according 
to  the  state  of  the  weather  ;  but  there  is  a  marked  prediction  for 
the  out-door  recreation. 


416          HEALTH      TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

one  side  appear  four  or  rive  Negroes,  quite  naked  clown 
to  the  waist,  and  seated  on  thjeir  tamtams*  These,  to 
gether  with  two  or  three  timbrels,  compose  the  orches 
tra.  Flags  and  banners,  richly  emblazoned  upon  a  red 
or  blue  ground,  and  bearing  characteristic  legends  in 
gilt  letters,  are  seen  fluttering  in  the  air :  and,  as  the 
groups  of  dancers  advance  in  all  directions,  the  dark 
ness  of  the  night  disappears  before  the  blaze  of  a  thou 
sand  flambeaux.  Now  the  chanterelle,  placing  herself 
in  front  of  the  orchestra,  gives  the  signal  with  a  flour 
ish  of  her  castanet :  she  then  repeats  a  verse  of  the  be- 
lair ;  the  dancers  take  up  the  refrain;  the  tamtams 
and  timbrels  strike  in  unison  ;  and  the  scene  is  enliven 
ed  by  a  succession  of.  songs  and  dances,  to  the  delight 
and  amusement  of  the  assembled  multitude. 

To  a  superficial  observer  these  exhibitions  present 
somewhat  of  a  profane  and  even  heathenish  appearance. 
In  this  light  they  were  doubtless  regarded  by  a  rever 
end  gentleman,  who  visited  St.  Lucia  in  October  1842, 
and  on  witnessing  the  dance  exclaimed  with  a  sapient 
shake  of  the  head  :  "  Juggernath  !  Juggernath  !"  But 
the  truth  is,  there  is  no  Juggernath  at  all  in  the  matter; 
and  the  Christian  moralist,  who  takes  the  trouble  to  ex 
amine  and  inquire,  will  find  less  to  censure  in  these  pri 
meval  though  fantastic  diversions,  than  in  the  more  civ 
ilised  seductions  of  the  quadrille,  the  galopade,  and  the 
waltz. 

The  whole  labouring  population  being  divided  into 
Roses  and  Marguerites,  it  follows  that,  upon  the  good 
understanding  which  subsists  between  them,  must 
mainly  depend  the  peace  and  prosperity  of  the  Colony. 
This  good  understanding,  however,  is  liable  to  be  dis 
turbed  by  the  intrigues  of  interested  partisans,  on  the 
one  hand,  and  officious,  would-be  patrons  on  the  other  : 

*  The  tamt,'>m  is  a  small  barrel,  covered  at  one  end  with  a 
strong  skin.  To  this,  placed  berween  his  legs,  the  Negro  applies 
the  open  hand  and  fingers,  beating  time  to  the  belair  with  the 
most  astonishing  precision. 


HEALTH     T  II  I  P     TO     THE     TROPICS.          417 

and  then  their  rivahy,  habitually  characterised  by  the 
most  friendly  relations,  will  assume  all  the  acerbity  of  a 
political  feud.  Thus,  in  1840,  an  attempt  was  made  by 
an  unscrupulous  planter  to  set  one  society  in  opposition 
to  the  other,  by  pandering-  to  the  worst  passions  of  un 
disciplined  humanity,  and  exciting  their  emulation  be 
yond  its  legitimate  sphere.  The  object  wras  to  allure 
the  labourers  to  his  estates  and  get  them  to  work  on 
his  own  terms :  for  this  purpose  he  took  one  of  the  so 
cieties  under  his  special  protection  ;  had  himself  elect 
ed  their  king ;  purchased  superb  dresses  for  the  queens ; 
and  got  up  splendid  fetes  for  their  entertainment.  At 
tracted  by  these  dazzling  frivolities  hundreds  of  the  la 
bourers  hastened  to  range  themselves  under  the  banner 
of  the  "  white  king."  For  some  time  all  went  on  well, 
and  the  planter  had  eyery  cause  to  rejoice  in  the  suc 
cess  of  his  scheme;  but  when  the  "day  of  reckoning 
came,  and  the  labourers  discovered  that  all  their  wages 
had  been  frittered  away  in  gilded  extravagance,  the 
prestige  of  the  white  king's  popularity  speedily  van 
ished,  and  his  estates  were  deserted. 

Another  interruption  of  the  general  harmony  occurred 
in  September  1841.  At  the  instigation  of  two  or  three 
individuals,  in  the  assummed  character  of  Patrons  of 
the  Roses,  these  foolish  people  procured  a  blue  flag  (the 
colour  peculiar  to  the  Marguerites)  and  paraded  it  in 
derision  through  the  streets.  In  the  evening  they  gave 
a  damboula,  and  the  flag  having  been  again  exhibited,  a 
party  of  the  Marguerites  rushed  into  the  ring,  seized 
the  flag,  and  were  carrying  it  off  in  triumph,  when  the 
Attorney-General,  who  happened  to  be  present,  ran 
forward,  and  by  threats  of  vengeance  succeeded  in 
wresting  it  from  the  discomfited  Marguerites,  amidst 
the  vivats  and  vociferations  of  the  Roses.  The  pretext 
for  this  proceeding  was  the  prevention  of  a  breach  of 
the  peace  ;  but  if  such  had  really  been  the  object,  a 
more  obvious  and  efficacious  means  would  have  been, 
to  have  interdicted  in  the  first  instance,  the  insulting 
18* 


418          HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS. 

display  of  the  rival  flag.  In  fact,  the  course  pursued, 
instead  of  allaying  the  popular  excitement,  only  fanned 
it  into  a  flame ;  for  when  the  dance  was  concluded,  and 
the  Roses  were  returning  to  their  houses,  they  were  as 
saulted  by  a  numerous  body  of  the  Marguerites.  A 
general  melee  ensued,  in  which  the  chief  combatants  were 
the  women,  and  their  chief  weapons  the  flambeaux 
which  they  had  brought  away  from  the  dance  ;  and  these 
they  used  with  such  indiscriminate  fury  against  their 
opponents,  that  the  respectable  inhabitants  were  com 
pelled  to  interfere  to  prevent  the  town  from  becoming 
a  prey  to  the  flames. 

Amongst  the  numerous  peculiarities  of  the  Negro 
character,  as  it  is  moulded  or  modified  by  French  society, 
is  their  constant  aping  of  their  superiors  in  rank.  During 
slavery  the  most  venial  offence,  the  most  innocent  fami 
liarity  was  regarded  as  an  ''insolence;"  and  all  the 
year  round  the  din  of  "  Je  vons  trouve  bien  insolent" 
resounded  in  the  Negro's  ear.  From  long  habit  this  ex 
pression  has  now  become  a  bye-word  with  the  lower 
orders  :  it  is,  in  fact,  the  staple  of  their  abuse  of  each 
other,  and  most  opprobrious  epithet  in  their  Billings 
gate  vocabulary.  Canaille  is  deemed  too  vulgar,  and 
negraillie  too  personal ;  while  "  in-so-hnt"  carries  with 
it  a  pungency  and  privilege,  which  receive  added  zest 
from  the  recollections  of  the  past. 

But  if  to  be  deemed  insolent  is  the  lowest  depth  of 
degradation,  to  be  held  respectable  is  the  highest  step  in 
the  ladder  of  social  distinctions.  From  Marigot  to 
Mabouya,  from  Cape  Maynard  to  the  Mole-a-chiques, 
respectability  is  the  aim  and  end  of  every  pursuit.  With 
the  baker  in  his  shop,  as  with  the  butcher  in  his  stali,  it 
is  the  one  thing  needful — the  corner-stone  of  social  ex 
istence;  and  though  it  may  not,  like  charity,  cover  a 
multitude  of  sins,  it  will  screen  a  vast  amount  of  mean 
ness  and  misery.  Nothing  can  be  more  amusing  than 
to  observe  the  talismanic  effect  of  this  word  upon  the 
lower  orders :  even  the  common  street- criers  take  ad- 


HEALTH   TRIP  TO  THE  TROPICS.    419 

vantage  of  it  in  the  disposal  of  their  wares.  Sometime 
ago,  a  female  servant,  being  commissioned  to  sell  a 
quantity  of  biscuits  of  an  inferior  quality,  hawked  them 
about  to  the  cry  of  "  Mi  biscuits  pour  les  dames  respec 
tables."  As  she  passed  along  the  street  the  conceited 
recommendation  did  not  fail  to  attract  the  attention  of 
those  for  whom  it  was  thrown  out.  The  hawker  was 
stopped  at  every  door,  and  so  great  was  the  anxiety  ot 
the  Negresses  to  test  the  quality  of  her  biscuits  as  a 
patent  of  respectability,  that  before  she  reached  the.  end 
of  the  street,  she  had  disburdened  herself  of  the  con 
tents  of  her  tray. 

A  still  more  striking  illustration  of  the  charm  of  re 
spectability  is  presented  in  the  following  circumstances, 
which  occurred  in  August  1842.  A  dispute  had  arisen 
between  the  queen  of  the  Roses  and  a  colored  woman 
— a  warm  advocate  for  the  Marguerites.  During  the 
altercation  the  parties  came  to  blows,  and  the  queen 
being  a  strong,  lusty  woman,  inflicted  a  pair  of  black 
eyes  upon  her  antagonist.  The  matter  soon  reached 
the  ears  of  the  Attorney-General,  and  both  combatants 
were  brought  up  before  Chief  Justice  Reddie  in  the 
Court  of  Police.  As  the  quarrel  had  grown  out  of  the 
previous  dispute  about  the  blue  flag,  the  Court  House 
was  crowded  to  suffocation  by  the  friends  and  sup 
porters  of  the  accused — each  party  anxiously  expecting 
a  verdict  against  its  antagonist.  This  feature  of  the 
case  did  not  escape  the  penetration  of  the  Judge,  who, 
resolving  not  to  give  either  any  cause  of  triumph,  dismis 
sed  them  both  with  a  severe  admonition,  expressing  his 
surprise  that  two  such  "  respectable  demoiselles"  should 
have  so  far  forgotten  what  was  due  to  themselves,  as  to 
have  assaulted  each  other  in  the  public  streets.  The 
word  "  respectable  "  shot  like  electricity  through  the 
audience.  A  thrill  of  exultation  seized  every  breast; 
the  Marguerite  looked  at  the  Rose ;  the  Rose  smiled  at 
the  Marguerite ;  and  as  they  retired  from  the  Court, 
pleased  with  themselves  and  proud  at  the  Judge,  a 


420          HEALTH     TRIP     TO    THE     TROPICS. 

murmur  of  applause  ran  from  mouth  to  mouth.  Since 
that  period  nothing  but  harmony  has  prevailed  between 
the  rival  societies  ;  and  it  would  now  require  no  small 
amount  of  provocation  to  draw  them  down  from  the 
niche  of  respectability  in  which  they  are  enshrined. 

The  Negro's  pretensions  to  respectability  are  founded 
more  upon  the  contrast  between  himself  and  the  Euro 
pean  laborer,  than  upon  any  positive  good  qualities  he 
can  lay  claim  to.  In  some  points  there  is  a  decided 
superiority  on  his  side.  His  person  and  his  hut,  apart 
from  the  influence  of  climate,  are  cleaner  than  those  of 
the  white  peasant ;  his  holiday  dress  more  stylish,  and 
his  gait  and  attitudes  less  clumsy  and  clownish  :  but  he 
is  surpassed  by  the  white  man  in  the  more  solid  advan 
tages  of  industry  and  perseverance.  A  Negro  espies 
his  fellow  at  the  end  of  the  street,  and  rather  than  join 
him  in  a  tete-a-tete,  he  will  carry  on  a  conversation  with 
him  for  several  hours  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  to  the  un 
speakable  annoyance,  perhaps  the  scandal,  of  all  those 
who  may  occupy  the  intermediate  houses.  Should  the 
wind  blow  off  his  hat  and  warn  him  to  depart,  he  will 
continue  the  conversation  and  let  some  one  else  pick  it 
up  for  him — or  if  he  condescend  to  notice  the  occur 
rence,  he  turns  round  with  an  air  of  offended  dignity, 
put  his  arms  a-kimbo,  takes  a  quiet  look  at  the  hat  as  it 
rolls  along,  shrugs  up  his  left  shoulder,  and  walks  leis 
urely  after  it  until  it  meets  with  some  natural  obstruc 
tion. 

The  general  character  of  the  St.  Lucia  Negro,  physi 
cal,  moral,  and  social,  may  be  summed  up  in  a  few 
words.  His  person  is  well  proportioned,  his  movements 
are  brisk,  his  carriage  easy,  without  stiffness  or  swag- 
.ger.  His  disposition  is  uncommonly  gay  and  good- 
' humored — he  is  always  singing  or  whistling  when  com 
patible  with  his  actual  occupation.  He  is  submissive, 
but  never  obsequious  ;  and  though  born  and  bred  in 
slavery,  there  is  not  a  trace  of  servility  in  the  outward 


HEALTH     TRIP     TO     THE     TROPICS.          421 

man.  Unlike  the  European  peasant,  who  seldom  pre 
sents  himself  before  a  clean  coat  without  a  feeling  of 
crawling  obsequiousness  and  degradation,  the  St.  Lucia 
Negro  is  polite  to  a  point;  he  can  touch  his  hat  to  any 
one^  but  he  will  not  uncover  himself  in  the  open  air, 
even  for  the  Governor  of  the  Colony.  He  is  docile,  in 
telligent  and  sober — active  but  not  laborious — supersti 
tious  but  not  religious — addicted  to  thieving  without 
being  a  rogue — averse  to  matrimony,  yet  devoted  to 
several  wives ;  and  though  faithful  to  neither,  he  can 
scarcely  be  deemed  debauched.  His  friendship  is  sin 
cere,  his  gratitude  unbounded,  and  his  generosity  to  all 
about  him  only  surpassed  by  his  affectionate  attachment 
to  his  children.  In  him  the  undisciplined  character  of 
the  African  is  tempered  by  the  accident  of  his  birth. — 
He  is,  in  short,  a  compound  of  savageness  and  civiliza 
tion — the  rude  production  of  the  desert,  transplanted  to 
a  more  genial  soil,  and  polished  off  externally  by  the 
decencies  and  humanizing  contact  of  English  and 
French  society ;  but  without  that  culture  in  religion 
and  education,  which  alone  can  impart  either  weight  or 
moral  dignity  to  the  social  man." 
19 


APPENDIX. 

THE  coronation  of  the  negro  Soulouque,  alluded  to 
in  Letter  28,  took  place  a  few  days  after,  but  I  have 
looked  in  vain  at  the  English  and  American  journals  for 
any  definite  description  of  the  ceremony.  I  have  a  docu 
ment  which  this  chance  omission  of  news  may  render 
interesting — a  printed  Programme  of  the  Ceremonial, 
which  was  furnished  only  to  official  persons  on  the 
island.  It  is  in  French,  and  rather  tediously  minute — 
but  the  following  translation  I  think  will  interest  the 
public,  as  giving  a  key  to  the  character  of  this  negro 
Court  and  its  Emperor.  The  high  sounding  titles  of 
the  royal  black  family,  and  the  distinguished  darkies  of 
the  nobility  will  be  amusing — especially  if  the  corona 
tion  be  looked  at  as  an  almost  simultaneous  caricature 
of  the  impending  coronation  and  revival  of  titles  in 


11.  APPENDIX. 

France.  To  any  one  who  has  seen  the  rags  and  rub 
bishy  arms  and  uniformity  of  the  troops  whose  doings 
are  thus  pompously  set  forth,  this  programme  will  be 
indeed  most  ludicrous.  Thus  it  runs: — 

LIBERTY.  INDEPENDENCE. 

EMPIEE  OF  HAYTI. 

(PROGRAMME.) 

The  ceremonies  for  the  coronation  of  their  Majesties 
are  to  take  place  the  evening  of  the  1  Ith  of  next 
April.  At  sunset,  a  salute  of  a  hundred  cannon  shall 
be  discharged  from  the  forts,  and  the  entire  city  shall 
be  illuminated. 

The  next  day,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  mi 
litary  Deputations,  from  different  ports  of  the  Empire, 
summoned  to  the  ceremony,  shall  assemble  at  the  garri 
son  upon  the  Champ-de  Mars. 

The  Emperor  himself  will  assign  to  the  Imperial 
Guard  the  position  which  it  shall  occupy  at  the  Champ- 
de  Mars. 

At  four  o'clock,  the  Members  of  the  Legislative 
Council  shall  repair  to  their  accustomed  place  of  meet 
ing,  the  Members  of  the  Judicial  and  Municipal  De 
partments  shall  assemble  at  the  Palace  of  Justice,  from 
whence,  at  half-past  four  o'clock,  they  shall  proceed  to 
the  Champ-de-Mars,  where  they  shall  be  received,  toge 
ther  with  the  Consuls  from  Foreign  Powers,  by  the 
Grand  Master  and  the  Master  of  Ceremonies,  and  con 
ducted  to  the  places  assigned  to  them. 

These  Departments  shall  be  escorted  by  a  piquet  of 
sixteen  Cavalry  and  a  piquet  of  forty-eight  Infantry. 

At  five  o'clock,  the  Vicar- General  and  Grand  Al 
moner  shall  leave  his  Palace  and  proceed  to  the  Charnp- 
de-Mare.  The  .march  of  his  cortege  shall  be  accempa- 


APPENDIX.  Hi. 

nied  by  a  rear  and  vanguard  of  a  piquet  of  Cavalry, 
and  by  twelve  Grenadiers  commanded  by  an  officer. 

The  Clergy  shall  assemble  at  the  church  previous  to 
the  Vicar- General. 

The  Almoner  of  her  Majesty,  the  Empress  shall  pre 
sent  the  *  aspersior '  to  the  Vicar,  with  which  he  shall 
sprinkle  with  holy  water  the  Clergy,  the  Magistracy  and 
the  people.  From  there  he  shall  penetrate  into  tho 
sanctuary  conducted  under  a  canopy. 

At  six  o'clock,  their  Imperial  Majesties  shall  leave  tho 
Palace  to  proceed  to  the  Oh  amp- de  Mara,  arnid  the  ring 
ing  of  bells,  martial  music  and  a  military  salute.  The 
march  of  the  Imperial  cortege  shall  be  led  by  the  King 
at  arms.  In  advance  shall  proceed  on  foot  the  Heralds 
at  Arms,  six  abreast ;  the  Hussars  the  same. 

The  Chevaliers  on  foot,  six  abreast;  the  Barons  the 
same;  Counts  the  same;  all  the  Dukes  abreast,  and  on 
foot. 

The  three  Ministers  and  the  Chancellor  abreast  and 
on  foot. 

The  Ministers  of  the  Interior  and  of  Agriculture  to 
the  right ;  next,  the  Ministers  of  War  and  of  the  Na 
vy,  the  Ministers  of  Finance  and  of  Commerce,  and  the 
Chancellor. 

The  Princes  of  the  Imperial  family  abreast  and  on 
foot. 

Next,  the  Prince  Jean- Joseph  alone  and  on  foot. 

Two  platoons  of  Light  Horse,  six  abreast,  each  pla 
toon  commanded  by  an  officer. 

A  detachment  of  two  platoons  of  six  officers  of  the 
Light  Guards  abreast,  on  horseback,  each  platoon  com 
manded  by  a  superior  officer. 

A  detachment  of  two  platoons  of  Grenadiers, 
mounted,  six  abreast,  each  platoon  commanded  by  an 
officer. 

A  detachment  of  two  platoons  of  six  officers  of 
Infantry  abreast,  mounted,  each  platoon  commanded  by 
a  superior  officer. 


IV.  APPENDIX. 

A  detachment  of  six  Aides-de-Camp  to  the  Emperor. 
on  horseback,  commanded  by  an  officer,  shall  go  before 
the  carriage  of  his  Majesty. 

The  carriage  of  the  Emperor,  drawn  by  eight  horses, 
in  which  will  be  the  Emperor,  the  Empress  and  the 
Princess  Olive.  The  pages  shall  ride  before  and  behind 
the  carriage  of  their  Majesties;  beside  the  front  wheels, 
on  the  right,  a  Colonel  on  horseback ;  on  the  left,  a  Co 
lonel  of  the  Light  Guards ;  beside  the  hind  wheels,  on 
the  right,  the  Master  of  the  Horse  to  his  Majesty  ;  on 
the  left,  the  Grand  Equery  to  the  Empress. 

The  carriage  of  the  Imperial  Princesses  Celia  and 
Olivette,  shall  be  drawn  by  six  horses ;  a  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  shall  ride  beside  each  wheel. 

A  piquet  of  six  Aides  to  the  Emperor,  all  six  riding 
abreast,  commanded  by  a  superior  officer. 

Two  platoons  of  Light  Horse  mounted,  six  abreast, 
each  platoon  commanded  by  an  officer. 

Next  shall  come  the  carriages  of  metnbers  of  the  Im 
perial  family :  those  of  the  Ladies  of  Honour ;  of  the 
Tire- Women  to  the  Empress ;  those  of  Princesses, 
Duchesses,  Countesses,  Baronesses  and  Gentry,  each  ac 
cording  to  his  rank. 

The  cortege  shall  be  closed  by  a  piquet  of  eight  pla 
toons  of  Cavalry,  commanded  by  a  Colonel  of  the  corps 
at  the  head,  and  an  officer  of  Cavalry  in  the  centre  of 
each  platoon. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  cortege  at  the  Champe-de- 
Mars,  the  Heralds  at  arms  and  the  Hussars  shall  divide 
to  the  right  and  to  the  left,  and  shall  remain  at  the  en 
trance  of  the  church  to  await  the  cortege  from  the  Im 
perial  tent. 

The  Chevaliers,  Barons,  Counts  and  Dukes,  who  shall 
not  carry  any  of  the  insignia  of  the  Emperor,  shall  re 
pair  immediately  to  the  places  assigned  to  them  behind 
the  Grand  Throne ;  in  the  same  manner  the  Baronesses, 
Ladies,  etc.,  etc. ;  they  shall  remain  standing,  .until  per 
mission  to  sit  shall  be  given.  Near  the  Imperial  tent 


A  r  r  E  N  D  I  X  .  V 

shall  remain  only  the  Grand  Dignitaries  who  carry  tho 
insignia  of  their  Majesties,  the  Ladies  of  Honour  and 
the  Ladies  of  the  Robes,  etc. 

The  first  platoon  of  Light  Horse  shall  wheel  about  to 
the  right,  place  themselves  in  battle  array  beside  the 
wings  .of  the  church,  and  shall  remain  there  facing  the 
Imperial  tent. 

The  second  platoon  of  Light  Horse  shall  wheel  to 
the  left,  placing  themselves  in  battle  array,  beside  the 
\vino-  of  the  church,  and  shall  remain  there  also,  front 
ing-  the  Imperial  tent. 

The  first  platoon  of  officers  of  the  Light  Horse  shall 
pass  to  the  right,  form  a  line  before  the  grand  door  of 
the  church,  and  shall  leave  place  for  the  platoon  of 
Aides  de  Camp  to  stand  in  front  of  it. 

The  second  platoon  of  officers  of  the  Light  Horse 
si i all  pass  to  the  left,  form  a  line  before  the  great  door 
of  the  church,  leaving  place,  also,  for  a  platoon  of  Aides- 
de-Camp. 

The  first  platoon  of  Mounted  Grenadiers  shall  wheel 
about  to  the  right,  place  themselves  in  battle  array  be 
side  the  wing  of  the  church,  behind  the  Light  Horse, 
remaining  there,  also  fronting  the  Imperial  tent. 

The  second  platoon  shall  wneel  to  the  left,  place 
themselves  in  battle  array  beside  the  wing  of  the 
church,  behind  the  Light  Horse,  also  fronting  the  tent. 

The  first  platoon  of  officers  of  the  grenadiers  shall 
pass  to  the  right,  form  a  line  before  the  great  door  of 
the  church,  behind  the  platoon  of  officers  of  the  Light 
Horse,  leaving  place  for  the  platoon  of  Aides-de-Camp. 

The  second  platoon  shall  pass  to  the  left,  in  the  same 
manner. 

The  first  platoon  of  Light  Infantry  shall  wheel  about 
to  the  right,  shall  draw  up  in  battle  array  after  tho 
Grenadiers,  fronting  the  tent. 

The  second  shall  wheel  to  the  left,  and  draw  up  in 
the  same  manner. 

The  first  platoon  of  officers  of  the  Light  Infantry 


Vi.  APPENDIX. 

shall  pass  to  the  right,  form  a  line  after  the  platoon  of 
officers  of  the  Grenadiers. 

The  second  platoon  shall  pass  to  the  left,  and  draw 
up  in  the  same  manner. 

The  first  platoon  of  Aides-de-Camp  shall  pass  rapidly 
to  the  right,  in  front  of  the  Light  Horse. 

The  carriages  of  their  Majesties  arriving  in  front  of 
the  imperial  tent  shall  stop. 

The  pages  shall  dismount  and  form  a  line  to  the  right 
and  to  the  left  of  the  tent. 

The  officers  beside  each  wheel  shall  dismount.  The 
Grand  Equery  shall  open  the  door,  and  give  his  hand 
to  the  Emperor,  shall  aid  him  to  descend  from  his  car 
riage,  and  shall  conduct  him  to  the  door  of  the  tent. 

The  Colonel  of  the  Light  Horse  shall  give  his  hand 
to  her  Imperial  Highness,  Madame  Olive,  and  conduct 
her  in  the  sarno  manner. 

The  carriage  of  the  Emperor  shall  turn  quickly  to 
the  left,  and  give  place  to  the  carriage  of  the  Princesses 
Celia  and  Olivette.  The  four  Lieutenant-Colonels  who 
are  at  the  wheels  shall  dismount,  open  the  door,  assist 
the  Princesses  to  alight,  and  lead  them  to  the  door  of 
the  tent ;  then  the  carriage  of  the  Princesses  shall  fol 
low  that  of  the  Emperor. 

The  platoon  of  six  Aides-de-Camp,  who  have  followed 
the  carriage  of  the  Princesses  shall  divide — the  half 
turning  to  the  right,  the  other  half  to  the  left,  and  draw 
up  after  the  Aides-de-Camp  already  placed. 

The  second  platoon  of  Light  Infantry  shall  wheel  to 
the  right  and  to  the  left,  as  did  the  Light  Horse,  and 
draw  up  to  front  of  the  Imperial  tent. 

Next  shall  come  the  carriages  of  the  Ladies  of  the 
Imperial  family,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Ladies  of  Hon 
our,  the  Ladies  of  the  Robes,  etc. 

The  eight  platoons  of  Cavalry,  on  arriving  at  Champ- 
de  Mars,  shall  divide  to  the  right  and  to  the  left,  and 
close  the  circle  of  Champ-de-Mars,  at  the  rear  of  the 
tent. 


APPENDIX.  Vil 

Their  Majesties,  after  being  robed  in  the  Imperial 
mantle,  shall  depart  with  their  cortege,  to  go  on  foot  to 
the  nave  of  the  church.  In  the  march  from  the  tent  to 
the  nave,  the  Imperial  cortege  shall  observe  the  follow- 
ing  order,  with  four  paces  between  each  group. 

The  Hussars,  four  abreast. 

The  Heralds-at-Arms,  four  abreast,  the  King-at-Arms 
at  the  head. 

The  Pages,  six  abreast. 

The  Aides  and    Masters  of  Ceremonies. 

The  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies. 

Monsieur  le  Baron  de  Duval  shall  bear  the  cushion 
intended  to  receive  the  ring  of  the  Empress,  which  he 
shall  present  to  her  Majesty  before  the  ceremony ;  on 
his  left,  Mon.  le  Baron  de  Labonte,  on  his  right,  Mon. 
le  Baron  de  Pernier. 

Mon.  le  Baron  Hilaire  cle  Jean  Pierre,  carrrying  the 
basket  to  receive  the  mantle  of  the  Empress,  shall  have 
on  his  left,  Mon.  le  Baron  de  Leveille,  on  his  right, 
Mon.  le  Chevalier  de  Capoix. 

Mon.  le  Due  de  Cayes,  bearing  upon  a  cushion  the 
Crown  of  the  Empress,  shall  have  upon  his  left,  Mons. 
le  Compte  de  Cap  Rouge,  upon  his  right,  Mons.  le 
Cornpte  de  Porte  Margot.  The  Empress  with  the  Im 
perial  mantle,  but  without  the  ring  and  without  the 
crown. 

Their  Imperial  Highnesses  Mesdames  the  Princesses 
Olive,  Olivette,  and  Celia,  shall  hold  up  the  mantle  of 
her  Majesty.  Mons.  le  Baron  d'Alerte,  gentleman  of 
honour,  Mons.  le  Baron  de  Lassere,  first  Equery,  and 
Mons.  le  Comtede  Carrefour,  first  Chamberlain  of  the 
Empress,  shall  march  ;  the  two  first  at  her  right,  the 
latter  at  her  left,  a  little  behind  Mesdame  the  Princess 
Olive;  the  mantle  of  each  Princess  shall  be  held  up  by 
an  officer  of  her  household,  the  Chevalier  de  Sampeur, 
Leander  de  Denis,  and  Myrtel  de  Latortue.  The  La 
dies  of  Honour  at  the  right,  abreast,  the  Ladies  in 
Waiting  at  the  left,  abreast. 


V1I1  APPENDIX. 

Messieurs  les  Dues  de  Grande-Bois  and  de  Leo- 
gane  shall  carry  the  Imperial  flag;  at  their  right  the 
Count  de  Camp-Coq,  at  their  left,  Mons.  Count  Pal- 
miste-Tempe. 

Mons.  le  Duke  de  Mirebalais  shall  bear  the  collar  of 
the  Emperor ;  on  his  right,  the  Duke  de  Gonaives,  on 
his  left,  the  Duke  de  Plaisance. 

Mons.  the  Duko  de  St.  Marc,  bearing  the  ring  of 
his  Majesty,  shall  have  upon  his  right,  Mons.  the  Duke 
de  la  Grand- Anse,  upon  his  left,  Mons.  the  Duke  de 
l'Anse-a-Veau. 

Mons.  the  Duke  de  la  Table,  bearing  the  Imperial 
globe,  shall  have  upon  his  right,  Mons.  the  Duke  de 
Caracol,  upon  his  left,  Mons.  the  Duke  de  la  Petite-Ri 
viere. 

Mons.  the  Duke  du  Trou,  bearing  the  basket  intended 
to  receive  the  mantle  of  the  Emperor,  shall  have  upon 
his  right,  Mons.  the  Duke  de  la  Vega,  upon  his  left, 
Mons.  the  Duke  de  Bellevue. 

The  Emperor,  bearing  in  his  hands  the  sceptre  and 
the  main  de  justice,  the  crown  upon  his  head. 

Their  Imperial  highnesses,  the  Princes  Jean  Joseph 
and  Alexander  de  Jean- Joseph,  holding  up  the  mantle  of 
the  Emperor. 

The  Grand  Equery,  the  Duke  de  Limonade,  the 
Chief  of  the  Aides-de-Camp,  the  Grand  Marechal  of 
the  Palace,  the  Ambassadors,  the  Chancellor,  all  four 
abreast. 

The  Ministers  of  the  interior  and  Agriculture. 

The  Ministers  of  War  and  of  the  Navy. 

The  Ministers  of  Finance  and  of  Commerce. 

The  Chancellor. 

At  the  entrance  of  their  Majesties  into  the  nave 
of  the  Church,  another  salute  of  Artillery  shall  be 
fired. 

Holy  water  shall  be  presented  to  the  Empress  by  her 
Almoner,  and  to  the  Emperor  by  Mons.  the  Vicar  Gen 
eral  ;  they  shall  compliment  their  Majesties,  and  con 


APPENDIX.  IX. 


duct  them  under  a  canopy,  supported  by  the  Clergy,  to 
the  place  they  are  to  occupy  in  the  chancel,  where  they 
shall  be  perfumed. 

Each  of  the  Clergy  who  accompanied  their  Majesties 
to  the  door,  shall  proceed,  in  inverse  order,  and  turn 
into  the  chancel,  where  he  shall  take  his  place. 

Prom  the  entrance  of  their  Majesties  into  the  church 
"until  they  arrive  at  the  little  throne,  the  choir  of  their 
Majesties'  chapel  and  of  the  band  of  the  Imperial  Guard 
shall  perform  a  grand  triumphal  march. 

The  order  of  procession  from  the  door  of  the  church 
to  the  chancel  shall  be  the  same ;  but  the  Ministers  and 
grand  Military  Officers,  who  follow  the  Emperor,  shall 
turn  to  the  left  of  the  throne,  near  which  they  shall  ar 
range  themselves  upon  the  steps  beyond  the  Senators, 
the  first  to  the  right,  the  second  to  the  left. 

Arriving  at  the  entrance  to  the  chancel,  the  Hussars, 
the  Heralds  at-Arms  and  the  Pages  shall  stop  and  form 
a  line  to  the  right  and  to  the  left  in  the  nave. 

When  the  Imperial  cortege  shall  be  in  the  chancel, 
the  part  which  is  in  the  nave  shall  arrange  themselves 
in  the  inverse  order  of  their  former  march,  that  they 
may  find  themselves  placed  in  the  proper  order  to  ac 
company  their  Majesties,  when  they  go  to  the  grand 
throne. 

The  remainder  of  the  cortege  shall  continue  its  march 
from  the  door  of  the  chancel  to  the  steps  of  the  sanc 
tuary,  except  the  Aides-de-Camp,  who  shall  form  a 
line  on  entering  the  chancel  to  the  right  and  to  the 
left. 

Before  reaching  these  steps,  the  Grand  Officers  who 
precede  the  Empress  shall  range  themselves  on  the  left; 
those  who  precede  the  Emperor,  on  the  right,  that  their 
Majesties  may  pass  into  the  sanctuary. 

The  Emperor  and  Empress  shall  seat  themselves  upon 
the  ohairs  which  shall  be  prepared  in  the  sanctuary  un 
der  the  canopy. 


APPENDIX. 


The  places  around  the  throne  of  their  Majesties  shal 
be  occupied  as  follows  : — 

Behind  the  Emperor,  the  Princes  de  Jean-Joseph  and 
Alexander  de  Jean-Joseph. 

Behind  the  Princes,  the  Duke  de  Limonade,  the  grand 
Marechal  of  the  Palace ;  the  two  Grand  Officers  bear 
ing  the  ring  and  the  collar  of  the  Emperor,  and  he  who 
bears  the  globe. 

To  the  right  of  the  Princes,  before  them,  and  oblique 
ly  from  them,  shall  stand  the  Grand  Chamberlain  and 
the  Grand  Equery. 

Behind  them,  two  Chamberlains. 

Behind  the  Empress,  the  Princesses  Imperial ;  behind 
the  Princesses,  the  Ladies  of  the  Court. 

To  the  left  of  the  Princesses,  before  and  obliquely 
from  them,  the  Ladies  of  Honour  and  the  Ladies  in 
Waiting;  behind  them,  the  First  Equery,  the  First 
Chamberlain,  and  the  Gentlemen  of  Honor  to  the  Em 
press. 

The  Grand-Master  and  Master  of  Ceremonies  to  the 
right,  near  the  altar. 

The  Assistants  of  the  Ceremony  upon  the  right  and 
left,  at  the  entrance  to  the  sanctuary. 

Their  Majesties  being  thus  placed,  at  the  moment 
•when  they  enter  the  chancel,  the  Vicar-General  shall 
go  to  the  altar,  and  shall  commence  the  Veni  Creator. 

The  Clergy  shall  remain  kneeling  during  the  first  stanza 
of  this  hymn,  which  shall  be  concluded  by  the  follow 
ing  stanza  and  prayer : — 

Emitte  spiritus,  etc. 

Et  renovabis,  etc 

OREMUS, 

Deus  qui  corda  Jidelium,  etc. 

During  this  hymn,  the  Emperor  and  Empress  shall 
play  for  a  moment  upon  their  prie-dieu,  and  rise. 

The  Chancellor,  passing  to  the  right  of  the  Emperor, 
shall  salute  successively  the  altar  and  His  Majesty,  and 
shall  approach  so  near  that  the  Emperor  may  hand  to 


APPENDIX.  XT. 

him  the  main  de  justice,  and  without  turning  his  back 
upon  the  altar  or  His  Majesty,  shall  fall  back  to  the 
right,  and  in  front  of  the  Grand  Chamberlain. 

The  Grand  Marechal  of  the  Palace  shall  follow  in 
the  same  manner ;  shall  receive  the  sceptre,  and  shall 
take  his  place  to  the  left,  and  below  the  Grand  Chan 
cellor,  between  him  and  the  Grand  Chamberlain. 

Next,  the  Grand  Chamberlain  shall  take  the  crown, 
hand  it  to  the  Duke  de  Los  Puertos,  who  shall  place 
himself  at  the  right  of  the  Chancellor. 

The  Grand  Officer  who  is  to  bear  the  grand  collar, 
shall  approach  the  Grand  Chamberlain,  who  shall  take 
the  collar  and  hand  it  to  him. 

The  Grand  Chamberlain  and  the  Grand  E query  shall 
next  approach  and  detach  the  mantle,  place  it  upon  their 
baskets,  and  shall  resume  their  places. 

The  Duke  de  Bany  shall  approach  in  the  same  man 
ner,  the  Emperor  shall  draw  his  sword  and  hand  it  to 
him  •  he  shall  place  himself  on  the  left  of  the  Grand 
Marechal  of  the  palace,  between  him  and  the  Chancel 
lor. 

The  Grand  Officer  who  is  to  carry  the  ring,  shall 
receive  it  from  the  Grand  Chamberlain,  and  shall 
place  himself  upon  his  right,  and  at  that  of  the  Grand- 
E  query. 

The  Grand  Officer  who  is  to  carry  the  globe,  shall 
place  himself  at  the  left  of  him,  who  is  to  bear  the 
ring. 

Meanwhile,  the  Ladies  of  Honour,  and  the  Ladies  in 
Waiting,  shall  approach  and  detach  the  mantle  of  the 
Empress,  fold  it  upon  their  baskets,  and  return  to  their 
places. 

Lastly,  the  Grand  Officer  who  is  to  bear  the  ring, 
shall  approach  to  receive  it  from  the  hands  of  the  first 
Lady  of  Honour,  and  shall  place  himself  on  her  left,  and 
on  that  of  the  Ladies  in  Waiting. 

The  Grand  Dignitaries  and  the  Grand  Officers  desig- 


Xll.  APPENDIX. 

nated  above,  shall  successively  place  upon  the  altar  the 
Imperial  insigna,  in  the  following  order. 

The  Crown  of  the  Emperor. 

The  Sword. 

The  Main  de  Justice. 

The  Sceptre. 

The  Mantle. 

The  Eing. 

The  Collar 

The  Imperial  Globe. 

The  Crown  of  the  Empress. 

The  Mantle. 

The  Eing. 

These  Grand  Officers  shall  return  successively  in  or 
der  to  their  places. 

The  Vicar  General,  after  having  chaunted,  standing, 
the  "  Veni  Creator,"  and  the  prayer  above  mentioned, 
shall  put  the  following  question  to  the  Emperor. 

"  Profiteris-ne,  charissime,  im  Christo  filio,"  etc.,  etc. 

The  Emperor,  clasping  the  Book  of  the  Holy  Evan 
gelists,  which  shall  be  handed  to  him  by  the  Deacon, 
shall  answer — "  Profiteer." 

The  Vicar  General  shall  next  repeat  the  folio  wing 
prayer. 

OREMUS. 

"  Omnipotens  sempiterne  Deus,"  etc. 

This  prayer  finished,  he  shall  repeat,  kneeling,  the 
Litany,  during  which,  their  Majesties  shall  remain  seat 
ed  upon  the  little  throne. 

After  the  verse, "  Ut  omnibus  fidelibus  defunctis,"  he 
shall  rise,  shall  turn  to  their  Majesties,  shall  repeat 
the  three  verses,  "  Ut  hunc  famulum  tuum,"  etc.,  dur 
ing  which  their  Majesties  shall  kneel  and  bow  their 
heads. 

The  Clergy  shall  make  the  sign  of  the  cross  in  the 
form  of  a  benediction,  following  the  example  of  the 
Vicar,  and  at  the  same  time  with  him ;  they  shall  con 
tinue  to  repeat  the  Litany  as  far  as  the  Pater, 


APPENDIX.  Xiil 

The  Litany  being  repeated,  the  Vicar  shall  rise ;  the 
Clergy,  still  kneeling,  shall  repeat  with  him,  the  follow 
ing  chaunts  and  prayers. 

"Et  ne  nos,"  etc. 

"  Sed  libera,"  etc. 

OREMUS. 

"  Pretende,  quoesimus,"  etc. 
OREMUS. 

"  Actiones  nostras,"  etc. 

These  prayers  being  finished,  the  persons  officiating 
shall  approach  their  Majesties,  bow  reverently  to  them, 
and  lead  them  to  the  foot  of  the  altar  in  order  to  receive 
Holy  Unction.  No  one  shall  follow  their  Majesties  in 
this  march. 

Their  Majesties  shall  kneel  at  the  foot  of  the  altar  on 
cushions. 

The  Vicar  shall  make  a  triple  unction,  upon  the 
head  and  in  the  two  hands,  representing  the  following 
prayers  : — 

OREMUS. 

"  Deus  dei  filius,"  etc. 

OREMUS. 

"  Omnipotens  sempiterne,"  etc. 

The  Vicar  shall  administer  the  same  Unctions  to  the 
Empress,  repeating  the  following  prayer  : — 
OREMUS. 

'  Deus  Pater  oaternae  sit  tibi  adjutor,"  etc. 

During  the  consecration,  the  choir  of  tho  Imperial 
chapel  shall  execute  the  following  motette  : — 

"  Unxerunt  Salornonem,  sadoch  sacerdos,  et  Nathan 
propheta  regem  in  Sion,  et  accedentes  loeti  dixerunt; 
vivat  in  cetera um." 

After  this  ceremony,  their  Majesties  shall  be  re-con 
ducted  to  the  little  throne  by  the  officiating  persons. 

The  unction  shall  be  wiped  off  by  the  Grand  Almo 
ner  of  the  Emperor,  and  by  the  Almoner  of  the  Em 
press. 

Meanwhile  the  Vicar  shall  commence  Grand  Mass, 


riV.  APPENDIX. 

and  shall  continue  it  exclusively  to  the  'Alleluia  du 
graduel;'  the  Clergy  shall  repeat  with  him  the  psalm 
*  Judica,'  as  well  as  the  other  prayers,  until  the  opening 
of  Mass. 

Immediately  after  the  chaunt  of  the  '  graduel,'  the 
Vicar  shall  bless  the  Imperial  insignia  in  the  order,  and 
with  the  prayers,  which  follow  : — 

'Adjutorium  nostrum,'  etc. 

*  Qui  fecit,'  etc.,  etc. 
To  be  followed  by  the 

Benediction  of  the  Imperial  Sword. 
OREMUS. 

*  Exaudi  qusesumus,'  etc. 

Benediction  of  the  Imperial  Mantles. 

OREMUS. 
'  Omnipotens  Deus,'  etc. 

Benediction  of  the  Imperial  Rings. 

OREMUS. 

'  Deus  totius  creaturse  principium  et  finis,'  etc. 
Benediction  of  the  Crowns   of  the  Emperor  and  the 
Empress. 
OREMUS. 
'  Omnipotens  sempiterne  Deus,'  etc. 

Benediction  of  the  Globe. 
'  Omnipotens  et  misericors  Deus,'  etc.,  etc. 
During   this  ceremony  their  Majesties  shall   remain 
seated  upon  the  little  throne. 

The  benedictions  being  given,  their  Majesties  shall 
again  go  to  the  foot  of  the  altar  accompanied  by  the 
same  officials  who  led  them  to  the  consecration ;  the 
Chancellor,  the  Grand  Marechal  of  the  Palace,  the 
Grand  Chamberlain  shall  follow  the  Emperor  to  the 
altar,  and  stand  behind  him:  the  Ladies  of  Honour  and 
the  Ladies  in  "Waiting,  the  First  Equery,  the  First 
Chamberlain,  and  the  Gentlemen  of  Honour,  shall  fol 
low  the  Empress  to  the  altar,  and  stand  behind  her : 
all  the  other  persons  of  the  cortege  shall  remain  in  their 
places. 


APPENDIX.  XV 

The  presentation  of  the  insignia  of  the  Emperor  shall 
be  made  by  the  Vicar  General  to  his  Majesty,  in  the 
following  order : — 

The  Ring. 

The  Sword,  which  his  Majesty  shall  put  in  his  scab 
bard. 

The  Mantle,  which  shall  be  attached  by  the  Grand 
Chamberlain  and  the  Grand  E query. 

The  Globe,  which  the  Emperor  shall  give  to  the  offi 
cer  charged  to  receive  it. 

The  'Main  de  Justice.' 

The  Sceptre. 

The  Ernperor,  holding  in  his  hands  the  two  last  orna 
ments,  shall  pray. 

During  the  time  of  this  prayer,  the  presentation  of 
the  ornaments  of  the  Empress  shall  be  made  by  the  Vi 
car  General  to  her  Majesty,  in  the  following  order : — 

The  King. 

The  Mantle,  which  shall  be  attached  by  the  Ladies 
of  Honour  and  the  vLadies  in  Waiting. 

During  the  presentation  of  the  ornaments  of  the  Em- 
perer  and  Empress,  the  choir  shall  execute  the  follow 
ing  motette  : 

'  Accingere  gladio  tuo  super  femur  tuum  potentissime 
specie  tua  et  pulchritudine  tua  intende,  prospere  pro- 
cede,  et  regna.' 

The  Vicar  General  shall  repeat  the  appropriate  prayer 
for  each  of  these  ornaments  as  follows  : 
Delivery  of  the  Ring. 

*  Accipite  hos  annulos,'  etc. 

Delivery  of  the  Sword. 
'  Accipite  gladiurn  de  altari  super  tuurn,'  e^c- 

Delivery  of  the  Mantles. 
'  Induat  vos,  Dominus,'  etc. 

Delivery  of  the  Globe. 

*  Accipe  globum  hunc,'  etc. 

Delivery  of  the  Main  de  Justice. 
Accipe  virgam  virtutis,  tic  veritatis,'  etc. 


XVI.  APPENDIX. 

Delivery  of  the  Sceptre. 

*  Accipe  sceptrum  potestatis  imperialis  insigne,'  etc. 

After  the  Emperor  shall  have  handed  the  '  main  de 
justice'  to  the  Chancellor,  and  the  sceptre  to  the  Grand 
Marechal  of  the  Palace,  he  shall  ascend  the  altar,  take 
the  crown  and  place  it  upon  his  head ;  he  shall  take 
that  of  the  Empress,  shall  approach  her  and  crown  her. 

The  Empress  shall  receive  the  crown  kneeling. 

The  Vicar  shall  repeat  the  following  prayer  during 
the  ceremony  of  crowning. 

1  Coronet  vos  Deus  corana  glorise,'  etc. 

Their  Majesties  shall  return  to  the  little  throne. 

Then  the  Grand  Officers,  and  the  Officers  who  are  to 
precede  the  Empress,  the  Princesses,  Ladies  and  those 
who  have  followed  them,  shall  resume  the  same  order 
of  march  in  which  they  came  to  the  entrance  to  the 
chancel;  the  Empress  shall  move  towards  the  Grand 
Throne,  the  Princesses  holding  her  mantle. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  chancel,  the  Officers,  the 
Pages,  the  Heralds-at-arms,  the  Hussars,  shall  resume 
their  order,  and  shall  march  to  the  throne,  gradually 
forming  a  line  as  they  approach  it. 

The  Grand  Officers  who  bear  the  insignia  of  the  Em 
press,  and  the  Officers  who  accompany  them,  shall  as 
cend  the  steps  of  the  throne,  pass  by  the  couloir  to  the 
right,  and  arrange  themselves  behind  the  throne. 

The  cortege  which  precedes  the  Emperor,  shall  resume 
its  order  in  turn. 

The  Emperor,  surrounded  by  the  Princes  and  Dig 
nitaries,  preceded  by  the  Officers  who  bear  the  insignia, 
followed  by  the  Gra'nd  Equery,  by  the  Grand  Cham 
berlain  and  by  the  Grand  Marechal  of  the  Palace,  hav 
ing  taken  from  the  Grand  Dignitaries  the  sceptre  and 
the  main  du  justice,  shall  march  to  the  throne,  the 
Princes  holding  his  mantle.  The  Grand  Officers  bear 
ing  his  insignia,  shall  place  themselves  behind  the 
throne,  also  the  Officers  who  accompany  them  ;  the 
Aides-de-Camp  shall  form  a  line  to  the  right  and  to  the 


APPENDIX.  XV11. 

left,  upon  the  steps  of  the  throne  ;  the  Grand  Cham 
berlain,  the  Grand  Equery,  and  the  Grand  Master  of 
Ceremonies,  shall  sit  upon  cushions,  upon  the  first  step 
below  the  estrade  of  the  throne;  the  Princes  and  Dig 
nitaries  shall  pass  to  the  left  of  the  throne  to  take  tho 
places  assigned  to  them  ;  the  Grand  Marechal  of  the 
Palace  shall  pass  to  the  left  of  the  couloir,  and  place 
himself  behind  the  Emperor. 

Lastly,  the  Vicar  and  the  Clergy  shall  march  also  to 
wards  the  Grand  Trone. 

The  Vicar,  after  having  ascended  to  it,  and  their 
Majesties  being  seated,  shall  address  them  in  the  follow 
ing  words  : — 

'  In  hon  Imperil  solio  confirmet  vos  Deus,'  etc. 

After  having  repeated  these  words,  the  Vicar  shall 
kiss  the  Emperor  upon  the  cheek,  and  shall  turn  to  the 
assistants,  and  shall  say,  in  a  loud  voice  :  *  Vivat  Impe- 
rator  in  seternum  !' 

The  assistants  shall  cry,  Long  live  the  Emperor,  long 
live  tlie  Empress  ! 

The  *  Vivat'  shall  be  executed  by  the  Imperial  choir. 

During  these  acclamations,  the  Vicar,  with  his  cortege, 
shall  be  reconducted  to  his  seat  by  the  Grand  Master 
of  Ceremonies,  preceded  by  the  Masters  and  Aides  of 
the  Ceremonies,  by  the  Heralds-at-arms,  and  by  the 
Hussars. 

The  Pages  shall  place  themselves  upon  the  steps  of 
the  throne. 

The  places  around  the  throne  of  the  Emperor  shall 
be  disposed  of  in  the  following  order: — 

The  Emperor  on  the  throne. 

A  step  lower,  on  his  right : 

The  Empress  upon  a  fauteuil. 

A  step  lower  to  the  right  of  the  Empress,  between 
the  two  columns  : 

The  Princesses,  upon  chairs. 

Behind  them,  the  Ladies  of  Honour  and  the  Ladies 
in  Waiting,  and  the  Ladies  of  the  Palace  appointed  to 
carry  the  offerings. 


XV111.  APPENDIX. 

On  the  left  of  the  Emperor,  and  two  steps  below  him, 
between  the  two  columns  : 

The  Princess — the  two  Grand  Dignitaries  at  their 
left,  upon  chairs. 

Behind  the  Emperor,  the  Grand  Marechal  of  the 
Palace,  the  four  Grand  Officers  bearing  the  insignia  of 
his  Majesty,  upon  the  right  of  the  Grand  Marechal  • 
and  the  three  Grand  Officers  bearing  the  insignia  of  the 
Empress,  behind  his  Majesty:  the  Civil  Officers  of  the 
Emperor  and  the  Princesses,  behind  the  Grand  Officers, 
all  standing ;  upon  the  first  step  below  the  estrade  of 
the  throne,  the  Grand  Chamberlain,  the  Grand  Equery 
and  the  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies,  seated  upon 
cushions.  At  the  foot  of  the  throne,  on  the  right,  shall 
be  a  tabouret,  upon  which  the  Grand  Master  of  Cere 
monies  shall  place  himself  often,  in  order  to  overlook 
the  details  of  the  ceremony  ;  behind  this  tabouret,  two 
Assistants  of  the  Ceremonies  ;  behind  these  Assistants, 
the  King  at- Arms  and  the  two  Heralds ;  opposite  the 
tabouret  of  the  Gand  Master,  the  Masters  of  the  Cere 
monies  ;  behind  them,  two  Heralds. 

The  Vicar  having  reached  the  sanctuary,  the  imperial 
choir  shall  sing  the  Te-Deum,  and  afterwards  the  hymns 
and  prayers,  as  follows  : — 
'  Firmetur  manus  tua,'  etc. 
'  Justitia  et  judicium,'  etc. 

0  REMUS. 
*  Deus,  qui  victrices  Moysis,'  etc. 

OR  EM  us. 

{ Deus  inerrabilis  auctor  mundi,'  etc. 
The  Vicar  shall  continue  the  mass. 
At  the  end  of  the  reading  from   the    Gospel,    the 
Grand   Master   shall  invite  the  Grand  Almoner  to  the 
altar  by  a  bow :  the  Grand  Almoner  shall   receive  the 
Gospel  from  the  Sub-Deacon  :  afterwards,  accompanied 
by  the  Clergy,  preceded  by  the   Grand    Master,   the 
Masters  and  Assistants  of  the  Ceremony,  he  shall  carry 
the  Holy  Book  to  be  kissed  by  their  Majesties ;  return 
to  the  altar  and  give  it  back  to  the  Sub-Deacon. 


APPENDIX.  XIX. 

At  the  Offertory,  the  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies 
shall  bow  reverently  to  their  Majesties  to  summon  them 
to  the  oblation. 

Madame  the  Princess  de  Jacmpl  bearing  a  wax  can 
dle  to  which  shall  be  attached  thirteen  pieces  of  gold, 
shall  have  at  her  side  Mons.  the  Count  de  Campan. 

Madame  the  Duchess  de  Tib  urn  bearing  another 
candle  with  the  same  number  of  pieces  of  gold,  shall 
have  at  her  side  Mons.  the  Count  de  Petit-G-oave. 

Madame  the  Duchess  de  St.  Louis  du  Sud,  bearing 
the  silver  bread,  shall  have  at  her  side  Mons.  the  Count 
de  la  Tannerie. 

Madame  the  Duchess  du  Mirebalias,  bearing  the  gol 
den  bread,  shall  have  at  her  side  Mons.  the  Count 
d'Umaui. 

Madame  the  Duchess  de  St.  Louis  du  Nord,  bearing 
the  vase,  shall  have  at  her  side  Mons.  the  Count  de  la 
Briquerie. 

Quitting  their  places  successively,  by  the  right  of  the 
4  couloir,'  to  receive,  below  the  steps  of  the  throne,  these 
different  offerings,  which  shall  be  presented  to  them  : — 

The  Emperor  and  Empress  shall  descend  from  the 
throne ;  meanwhile  the  Imperial  Band  shall  execute  a 
triumphant  march. 

The  Empress  surrounded  by  the  Princesses  who  hold 
up  her  mantle,  followed  by  the  Ladies  of  Honour,  by 
the  Ladies  in  Waiting,  and  by  the  Grand  Civil  Officers 
of  her  Majesty,  shall  quicken  their  march  in  order  to 
precede  the  Emperor  below  the  steps  :  the  Emperor 
shall  march  more  slowly,  accompanied  by  the  Princes 
who  hold  up  his  mantle,  followed  by  the  Grand  Mare- 
chal  of  the  palace,  and  preceded  by  his  grand  Cham 
berlain,  and  by  his  Grand  E query,  in  such  a  manner 
that,  dividing  at  the  steps  of  the  throne,  the  march  to 
the  chancel  shall  be  in  the  following  order  :— 

The  Hussars. 

The  Her  alds-at- Arms. 
The  Pages. 


XX.  APPENDIX. 

-x 

The  Assistants  of  the  Ceremony. 

The  Masters  of  the  Ceremony. 

The  Grand  Master  of  the  Ceremony. 

The  offerings  in  the  order  above  mentioned. 

The  Empresses  followed  as  above  described. 

The  Grand  Chamberlain,  the  Grand  Equery,  and 
the  Gentlemen  of  Honour. 

The  Emperor  and  his  suite. 

On  arriving  at  the  door  of  the  chancel,  the  same  per 
sons  who,  in  the  first  march,  formed  a  line,  shall  do  so 
again  ;  the  Emperor  and  the  Empress,  with  the  rest  of 
the  l  cortege,'  shall  continue  their  march  to  the  foot  of 
the  altar. 

The  Emperor,  the  Empress  on  his  left,  shall  kneel 
upon  the  cushions;  the  person  bearing  the  offerings 
shall  arrange  themselves  on  their  right  a  little  behind, 
forming  a  line ;  the  Grand  Master,  a  Master,  and  an 
Assistant  of  the  Ceremonies  on  the  right,  also  on  the 
left.  The  Princes  and  Princesses,  on  entering  the  sanc 
tuary,  shall  no  longer  hold  up  the  mantle  of  their  Ma- 
;esties,  and  shall  occupy  the  same  place  in  the  sanctu 
ary,  which  they  did  during  the  consecration  and 
crowning. 

On  reaching  the  altar,  the  Emperor  shall  hand  the 
sceptre  and  the  '  Main  de  Justice'  to  the  Chancellor  and 
to  the  Chamberlain,  who  shall  remain  at  the  right,  near 
the  altar. 

Their  Majesties  being  crowned,  shall  take  the  offer 
ings  from  the  Ladies  who  bear  them,  in  the  order  of 
the  march,  and  present  them  to  the  Vicar. 

They  shall  then  seat  themselves  upon  the  little 
throne;  depart  from  it  again  in  the  order ^above  men 
tioned,  to  proceed  to  the  Grand  Throne. 

The  Vicar  shall  continue  the  Mass. 

At  the  elevation  of  the  Host  their  Majesties  being  on 
the  Grand  Throne,  the  Grand  Chamberlain  shall  take 
off  the  Crown  of  the  Emperor,  and  the  Lady  of  Honour, 


APPENDIX.  XXI. 

and  Mons.  the  Gentleman  of  Honour,  that  of  the  Em« 
press. 

Their  Majesties  shall  kneel.  After  the  elevation  of 
the  Host,  their  Majesties  shall  rise,  and  the  Grand 
Chaplain  shall  replace  the  Crown  of  the  Emperor,  and 
the  Lady  of  Honour  and  the  Gentleman  of  Honour, 
that  of  the  Empress. 

At  the  '  Agnes  Dei,'  the  Deacon  shall  receive  the 
kiss  of  peace  from  the  Vicar,  'cum  instrumento  pacis,' 
and  shall  carry  it  to  their  Majesties. 

The  Mass  shall  continue. 

The  Mass  being  finished,  the  Grand  Almoner  shall 
again  carry  the  Gospel  to  the  Emperor,  and  shall  re 
main  standing  upon  the  left  of  his  Majesty. 

His  Great  Highness  the  Duke  de  la  Bande-du-Nord, 
Minister  of  the  Interior,  etc.,  shall  call  Messieurs  the 
President  of  the  Senate,  and  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies, 
and  Mons.  the  Baron  d'Acloque,  President  of  the  Court 
of  Appeals,  and  present  them  to  his  Majesty.  They 
shall  lay  before  the  Emperor  the  constitutional  oath, 
and  range  themselves  on  the  left  of  the  throne,  upon 
the  first  steps ;  the  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies  shall 
remain  on  the  other  side  of  the  steps,  opposite  the  Pre 
sident,  of  the  Senate. 

The  Emperor,  seated  and  crowned,  his  hand  upon 
the  Holy  Gospel,  shall  repeat  the  oath  in  these  words  : — 

/  sice.ar  to  support,  the  integrity  and  the  independence 
of  tlt,e  Enrpire,  etc. 

This  oath  being  pronounced,  the  King-at-anns  shall 
proclaim  in  a  loud  voice  :  — 

THE  MOST  GLORIOUS,  MOST  AUGUST  EM 
PEROR  F  AUSTIN  THE  EIRST,  EMPEROR  OF 
HAYTI,  is  crowned  and  enthroned. 

LONG  LIVE  THE  EMPEROR  !! 
The  prolonged   cries  of  "  Long  live  the  Emperor  !" 

'  Long  live  the  Empress  !"  shall  be  heard  in  all  parts  of 
the  church. 

A   discharge   of  a    hundred    cannon   shall  proclaim 


XX11.  APPENDIX. 

the  coronation  and  the  enthronement  of  their  Ma 
jesties. 

The  clergy  shall  return  to  the  foot  of  the  throne  with 
the  canopy  to  re-conduct  their  Majesties. 

At  the  same  moment  the  Hussars,  the  Heralds-at- 
Arms,  the  Pages,  the  Assistants  of  the  Ceremony,  the 
Masters  and  the  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies,  shall  ad 
vance  from  the  right  to  the  throne,  to  rejoin  the  pro 
cession.  The  Grand  Officers,  bearing  the  insignia  of  the 
Emperor  shall  successively  pass  by  the  '  couloir'  to  the 
right,  shall  descend  the  steps,  and  take  their  place  before 
the  canopy  of  the  Empress. 

The  Empress  shall  descend  from  the  throne  accom 
panied  by  the  Princesses,  followed  by  the  Ladies  of 
Honour,  by  the  Ladies  in  Waiting,  and  by  the  Ladies 
and  Officers  of  the  Palace. 

Next,  his  Majesty  shall  come  under  the  canopy,  and 
continue  the  march  towards  the  Imperial  tent. 

The  seven  Grand  Officers  who  bear  the  insignia  of  the 
Emperor  shall  successively  pass  by  the  '  couloir'  to  the 
left,  and  shall  march  before  the  canopy  in  the  order  with 
which  they  came  from  the  tent  to  the  church. 

The  Emperor  shall  take  from  the  Chancellor  and 
from  the  Grand  '  Marechal'  of  the  Palace,  the  sceptre, 
and  the  'Main  de  Justice,'  and  shall  descend  from  the 
throne,  followed  by  the  Princes  holding  up  his  mantle, 
and  by  the  Grand  Officers  who  followed  him  coming  to 
the  church. 

When  the  Emperor  shall  leave  the  nave,  the  Ministers 
and  the  other  Grand  Military  Officers  shall  take  their 
same  rank  in  the  cortege  to  return  to  the  Imperial 
tent. 

The  formalities  finished,  their  Majesties  shall  return  to 
the  Imperial  Palace  in  the  same  order  of  march  as  above 
designated. 

The  public  rejoicings  shall  continue  until  six  o'clock, 
and  at  sunset  of  that  day,  a  salute  of  a  hundred  cannon 
shall  announce  the  conclusion  of  the  festivities 


APPENDIX.  XX111 

Port  au  Prince,  March  9th,  1852,  the  49th  year  of 
Independence,  and  the  3d  of  the  reign  of  his  Imperial 
Majesty. 

The  Duke-du-Nord,  Minister  of  the  Interior  and  of 
Agriculture.  D.  HYPPOLITE. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate 


MAR  13  1970     JUL1312C2 


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