B
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
PAVti
HESPEKOTHEN;
NOTES FROM THE WEST
A RECORD OP A
KAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA
IN THE SPKING AND SUMMER OF 1881.
BY
W. H. EUSSELL, LL.D.
BAKRISTER-AT-LAW.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIYINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET.
1882.
[All rights reserved.']
'
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
PAVIS
LONDON :
PRINTED BY "WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.
CONTENTS OF YOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
AEIZONA.
Deming The Mirage Ruined Cities American Explorers Self-
Tormentors Animals and Plants Yuma California Los
Angeles Santa Monica The Pacific Page 1
CHAPTER II.
THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.
A new Land of Goshen A Jehu indeed The Drive to Clarke's
A Mountain Hostelry Grizzlies Fascination Point The
Merced Yosemite Fall A Salute Mountain Airs The Mirror
Lake " See that Rattle ? " A Philosophic Barber .. .. 19
CHAPTER III.
SAN FRANCISCO.
The Palace Hotel General McDowell Palo- Alto The " Hood
lums" The real Sir Roger Exiles in the Far West The
Chinese Population For and Against them The Sand Lot
Fast Trotters The Sea-Lioos The Diamond Palace The
Coloured Population " Eastward Ho !" 44
CHAPTER IV.
CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.
Los Angeles Mud-geysers "Billy the Kid" General Fremont
Manitou, the Garden of the Gods Desperadoes Bob Ingersoll
Denver City Leadville Grand Canon 73
a 2
iv Contents of Vol. II.
CHAPTER V.
KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.
Liquor Law Kansas Academy of Science An Incident of Travel
A Parting Symposium Life in the Cars St. Louis to New
York Page 107
CHAPTER VI.
NEW YORK NEWPORT DEPARTURE.
Coney Island Newport Bass-fishing Habit of Spitting
Brighton Beach Newport Coaching Extra Ecclesiam
Victories of American Horses Newport Avenues Return to
New York Our Last Day in America 122
CHAPTER VII.
RETURN TO EUROPE.
The " City of Berlin" The Inman Line The Service at Roche's
Point Queenstown Discomforts A sorry Welcome Home 140
CHAPTER VIII.
SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.
Education Free Schools Influence of Money in Politics Corrup-
ruption in Public Life Crime on the Western Borders The
Great Rebellion Anniversaries Great Courtesy to Strangers
Manners and Customs 151
CHAPTER IX.
THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.
Captain Pratt Carlisle Barracks An Indian Bowman The
Indian Question The Pupils' Gossip The "School News"
Indian Visitors The White Mother The India Office White
and Red Quo Quousque ? Indian Title ( Deeds The Reserva
tions The Indian Agencies Missionary Efforts The Red
Man and the Maori .. 186
HESPEEOTHEN.
CHAPTER I.
ARIZONA.
Deming The Mirage Ruined Cities American Explorers Self-
Tormentors Animals and Plants Ymna California Los
Angeles Santa Monica The Pacific.
May 30th. At an hour as to which controversy
might arise, owing to the changes of time to which we
have heen subjected, the train, which had pulled up hut
seldom during the night, stopped at Deming Junction,
where the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad
" connects " with the Southern Pacific, on which our
cars were to be " hauled " to San Francisco. Jefferson
time and San Francisco time differ two hours, so at one
end of the station we scored 6 A.M., and at the other
8 A.M. The sooner one gets away from Deming in any
direction the better. A year ago as is usually the
case hereabouts there was not a trace of a town on
the dry ugly plain covered with prickly acacias and
" Spanish bayonets " ; now Deming flourishes in gaming
and drinking saloons, express offices, and all the horrors
of "enterprise" in the West. The look-out revealed
a few tents, wooden shanties, a station, at which work-
VOL. n. B
Hesperothen.
men were running up a frame-house, ground littered
with preserved provision tins, broken crockery, adobes
and refuse of all sorts. At the door of one hut,
swarming with flies, swung half a carcase of beef ; two
women were washing, pale-faced, but not uncheerful
creatures, who had not a good opinion of Deming and
its population. " They carry out a dead man a day, or
used to," said one informant. The lady washerwomen
did not quite corroborate the figure ; but, remarked the
chattier of the two, " there was a considerable shewtin'
about last night ! " To the observation of one of the
party that he was " going to have a look about," the
other lady made reply, " I guess if you dew it will be
' hands up ' for ten cents with you." On the platform
was a United States marshal, with a revolver stuck in
his belt, but his duties were considered to be punitive
rather than preventive. Here Mr. Chase and Mr.
Hawley left us to return to Topeka. At the abschied-
nehmen Sir H. Green was affected by a proof of
interest in his welfare of a touching character and
very full of local colour ; one of our friends beckoned
to him, took him aside, and pulling out a revolver
(" It is hands up ! " thought Sir Henry), fully loaded,
pressed it on his acceptance in the kindest manner as a
useful compagnon de voyage. As we were not to stay
at Deming, the self-sacrifice was not consummated.
The regular train having come up, our special was
tacked on to it, and in an hour the locomotive puffed
out of the depot, and sped westerly on its way at the
rate of twenty miles an hour, across a plain some
A Mirage.
fifteen miles broad, bordered by jagged, irregular
mountain ranges north and south, as dry as a bone
so dry that water for the engine has to be brought
to the stations in tanks. A scanty growth of what
looked like camel grass, interspersed euphorbias and
cactuses of great height, was all that met the eye.
We are approaching the great basin of Arizona, and
are warned that much dust and great heat must be
expected, and that the " scenery " does not improve in
point of variety or verdure, both of which are nearly at
zero. A vigorous, well-directed campaign against the
flies in the saloon gave us comparative repose; then the
blinds being pulled down, and the thermometer reduced
to 83 deg., society settled itself to study, with results
indicated presently by a gentle susurrus on the sofas.
A sudden alarm, " Look at the deer ! " There sure
enough was a herd of antelopes flying over the scrub
towards the horizon, which flickered about in the heat
in a mirage of islands and uplifted mountain ends so
vanished.
After passing Lordsburgh, a desolate spot in the
desert, there appeared a beautiful mirage. The sand
became a sheet of water, waveless and mirror-like, and
in it we saw reflected in trenchant outline the mountain
range beyond. " It must be water ! it is water ! "
exclaimed an unbelieving director. And, lo! as he
spoke the "dust devils" rose and danced along the
face of the sea ; in another minute the vision was gone ;
the dazzling sand, white, blank and dull, mocked our
senses. This was near Stein's Pass, up which the train
2
Hesperothen.
of nine carriages was climbing " the heaviest train
that has gone over yet," said the triumphant conductor.
" But we thought we'd try it." Each waggon weighed
30 tons. The Pass is three miles long, and we were
working at a grade of 74 feet with a 19-inch cylinder
engine.
Between Pyramid Station and San Simon (stant
nomina umbrarum the names of mere shadows of
stations) the western border of New Mexico is crossed,
and we enter the great Territory of Arizona, which lies
between the Eocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada.
It is bounded by New Mexico on the east, by Mexico
on the south, by Utah and Nevada on the north and
north-west, and by California in continuation of the
western boundary. It is as large as New York,
Pennsylvania, Maryland, New Jersey, and Delaware
together. Whom it belonged to first, so far as occu
pation constitutes possession, I know not ; but the
Spaniards owned and neglected it for more than three
centuries before the Americans possessed it. In 1848
and 1853 the regions now forming Arizona, New
Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada were ceded by
the descendants of the Spanish conquerors to the
conquering Anglo-American. It would need weeks of
assiduous travel to explore the portion of Arizona
where the most interesting ruins in America, the
cities of the Zoltecs or the Aztecs for the experts
differ respecting their origin are to be found. The
weight of authority and of recent investigation leads
one to believe that the Aztecs were not the builders
Ruined Cities. $
of these ruined cities. Humboldt, indeed, believed
that they were ; but, as Mr. Hinton remarks, in
his capital little handbook, which I recommend to
prospectors, emigrants, tourists, and travellers, " to
suppose such an utter abandonment of settled habita
tions, it will be necessary to suppose some strange
impelling reasons, either in climate or other causes,
that must have amounted to a catastrophe. An
hypothesis which would leave a whole race able to
conquer an empire, and to preserve power enough to
abandon without destruction their old homes, implies
conditions and forces without a known historical
parallel." The conclusion that many native cities were
flourishing when the Spaniards arrived in America
may, perhaps, be questioned. There is a distinctive
character about them, differing from that of the
Mississippi mounds, the Central American pyramids, or
the ruined cities of Yucatan.
The site of one of these cities was pointed out to us
from the train, and that was all we saw of them.
But I heard so much about the mysterious remains
that I was induced to procure Mr. Bancroft's re
markable essay on the native races of the Pacific
Coast. Mr. Bancroft believes that the Pueblos and
other Indians, in a state of civilisation which they
subsequently lost, were the earliest inhabitants of these
countries and the builders of the cities; that the
Apaches came down upon them, and their work being
then aided by the Spaniards, this original agricultural
people were swept off the face of the earth. But
Hesperothen.
-where the Apaches came from the American ethno
logists have not, I believe, determined. For hundreds
of miles these ruins cover the country stone houses,
ancient watch-towers, and adobe buildings, around
which are quantities of stone implements, masses of
crockery and pottery. In some places there are struc
tures of wood and stone, without iron, the masonry
consisting of thin plates of sandstone dressed on the
edges, and laid in coarse mortar nearly as hard as
the stone itself.
The explorers who have discovered the most in
teresting cities in Arizona and elsewhere were officers
of the United States army. They have been the true
pioneers of American civilisation in the West, and
it is most creditable to them that they have been
able to furnish so much scientific and antiquarian
observation in the execution of their arduous and often
painful duty in Indian warfare. There is no cold
shade cast upon the labours of officers who desire to
make a little, reputation for themselves by contributions
to scientific publications, and by papers on natural
history and the like in periodical publications or in
the daily press.
There is, as might be expected from its posi
tion, a very high temperature in Arizona. This lasts
from the middle of June to the first of October.
During the best part of summer exertion of any kind
is impossible. Metal objects cannot be handled with
out producing blisters ; rain scarcely ever falls ; and,
to keep up the drain of constant evaporation, a
Habitans In Sicco.
man must drink a gallon or two gallons of water a
day. Mr. Boss Brown, speaking of the summer, de
clares that "everything dries. Waggons dry; men
dry; chickens dry. There is no juice left in any
thing, living or dead, by the close of summer. Officers
and soldiers creak as they walk ; chickens hatched at
the season come out of the shell ready cooked. Bacon
is eaten with a spoon, and butter must stand in the
sun an hour before the flies become dry enough for use.
The Indians sit in the river with fresh mud on their
heads, and, by dint of constant dipping and sprinkling,
manage to keep from roasting, though they usually
come out parboiled." But, although it is recorded
that a party encamped on a narrow canon where
the temperature was 120 degrees, there was no sun
stroke. And in that respect the climate differs from
that on the eastern coast, where, especially this very
summer, a great number of deaths were caused by
coup de soleil. People, with the thermometer marking
94 degrees, talk of its being agreeably cold. An ex
ceedingly interesting fact, if it be one, connected
with residence in this part of the world is the whole
some effect of complete abstinence. Death from want
of water was by no means infrequent in the old days
before so many wells were dug; but it only occurs
when there is a good deal of humidity in the air.
Although alcoholic drinks and tobacco have an in
jurious effect, there is a large consumption of both at
all the stations and at the mines.
As in the Orange River Free State, where probably
8 Hesperothen.
the conditions of temperature are not very dissimilar,
pulmonary complaints are cured, so a residence in
Arizona, it is said, stops consumption ; and there
are authentic statements that people who arrived in
a rapid decline have experienced almost immediate
relief of the principal symptoms, and have been finally
cured. Governor Safford, in an official letter, states
that his lungs were a good deal diseased, and that he
was suffering with a severe cough when he reached
Arizona, and that in six months his cough left him.
He is satisfied the warm, dry atmosphere acted like a
healing balm to diseased lungs, and that, the pores
being kept open, the impurities which attack weak
organs escape through the skin. Dr. Loryea, of San
Francisco, and Dr. Sawyer aver that Arizona is
nature's Turkish bath, and that Yuma, that evil-look
ing place, contains the fountains of health.
Of such vast regions a small acquaintance acquired
by passing rapidly twice over a line of railway does
not entitle one to speak; but, if what we read and
heard of Arizona be true, there is within its limits
enormous mineral and agricultural wealth. There
are carboniferous basins of great extent and richness.
The mountains teem with ore. Silver and gold, copper
pyrites, zinc, and lead are to be found over a great
range, the extent of which is as yet imperfectly
known. There are sulphates of nearly all the metals ;
metallic oxides, chlorides, carbonates, nitrates ; agates,
amethysts, garnets, and other precious stones. People
there are who believe that the diamond, the emerald,
Self- Tormentors.
and the ruby will turn up in due time. In fact, if one
were to be guided by the accounts in the papers or the
guide-books, he would think that a sure way of making
an immediate fortune would be to settle down on any
hillside in this favourite land. Nevertheless, what
I saw out of my window gave me reason to suppose
that there was poverty in Arizona as well as in the old
country. Nor did the buildings which I saw by the
way at the sparse stations and infrequent towns give
an idea that the in-dwellers were well-to-do in the
world. The adobe, or burnt brick, which is a common
material in lieu of better, has always a ruinous appear
ance. The houses built of it yesterday seem tumbling
to pieces from the influences of old age.
We take no note of time save by its relation
to constant motion, and to the " programme " a
Procrustean bed on which we have voluntarily
placed our tortured limbs. Sometimes in the hours
of the night, which could not be called still because
of the incessant pealing, rattling, and thundering of
the train, I thought of the wonderful ways of man
with himself in such affairs as we were now en
gaged in. There is a play of Terence which was
a trouble to me in my youth, so long ago that I
remember very little more of it than the dismal and
elongated name ; but Mr. " Heautontimorumenos "
never needlessly bound himself up in a programme and
delivered his life over to a time-table ! It is likely
enough, seeing what sort of man he was, that he would
have adopted that course had he lived in these days.
iO Hesperothen.
I admit that programmes are necessary when your
movements regulate, or have to be regulated by, those
of other people ; and that was the case in some measure
with us, but the solicitude it occasioned the worthy
and valued friends, whose brows I perceived becoming
more puckered, and whose faces and spirits were heavy
with cares connected with the programme, to come up
to time, was beyond belief, and I vowed if ever I had my
own way with the ordering of a party I would have no
programme at all. And plot and calculate as you will,
a gale of wind, or a heated axle, or a broken bridge, or
a flood, upsets everything, and your schemes gang aglee
utterly ! It was admirable to see how we were work
ing out the destiny we had made manifest for our
selves in advance so long ago, but the task was not
easy. What curious sounds, by the way, our train
made at night! One could now and then compose
words to the tune of the wheels, and the regular rhythm
forced one at times to hum the words of a song, of which
the train seemed to hammer out the music. It seemed
so strange to be turning into bed night after night,
and waking up to pass the same life day after day,
like a log of wood carried on by an interminable,
irresistible torrent.
Provided with books and newspapers, and friends to
converse with, as well as with sights to see, we had,
however, no reason to complain that time hung heavy
on our hands as the train sped on. The books were very
utilitarian, it is true Eeports of Chambers of Com
merce, statistics and papers connected with railway and
Sporting in A rizona. 1 1
commercial enterprise and the like. But our directors
took to that literature with avidity, and aided by maps
and tables, copiously furnished to them, seemed bent
on passing with honours in a competitive examination
anent the American railway system. There were
always, close at hand in the cars, competent authorities
to answer questions, or able champions to engage in
controversy, and as I heard all the subtle contentions,
which I did not understand, concerning signalling and
baggage checking, gauges and engines, curves and
gradients, freights and fares, I was set to think what
the field had been in which all the ingenuity and talent
displayed in dealing with such topics were exercised
in pre-railway days. These discussions were mostly
connected with the consideration of profits and per
centages, and that was a neutral ground on which the
combatants manoeuvred their facts and figures as in a
natural " scliauplatz" There were times when such
investigations ran down like a clock, and no one wound
them up again for a few hours, and then my friends
digested the remains they found on the field of battle
and strengthened themselves for friendly jousting.
Not very long ago there would have been ex
ceedingly good sporting in many parts of Arizona.
Grizzly bears, common and black bears ; pumas, moun
tain sheep, jaguars, ocelots, opossums, panthers, wolves,
and lynxes are largely distributed over the hill ranges.
There are also hares and rabbits and many smaller
animals. Wild turkeys have much diminished of late
years ; but there is a variety of birds, some of them
1 2 Hespcrothen.
excellent for the spit. The chase, however, is attended
with some danger, unless one is very well booted and
looks out where he treads, as rattle-SDakes abound, and
are of exceeding virulence, the black species being
especially deadly. There are horned toads, but these
are harmless.
For the botanist Arizona is an almost inexhaustible
field of delight. Any one who likes to read of vege
table wonders, or of an extraordinarily varied flora,
cannot do better than get Dr. Loryea's work, or read
* New Mexico,' by Elias Brevoort. The growth which
struck us most was that of the extraordinary cactus
called the candelabra or Sahuaro. It is worth while
going so far as the railway will take one to see these
plants sticking up on the sides of a rock without a
trace of verdure or moisture, rising to the height of
40 or 50 feet, and throwing out enormous arms at the
most grotesque angles, each varying from the other in
shape, the number of its arms, and in the manner in
which they are disposed. This giant cactus is covered
with prickles, and is of a light green colour. It is
said that in the old days the Apache Indians not unfre-
quently made use of them as handy means of torture,
and nailed their victims to a cactus previous to setting
fire to it. The body of the plant is resinous, and it
can be easily converted into a bonfire. Here and
there we saw some with traces of pale yellow flowers.
When these are gone there is a fruit, which makes an
excellent preserve, or can be boiled into sugar. Then
there are prickly pears in great quantities ; and there
The Red Man. 13
is a "negro-head cactus," with a round top covered
with sharp spines, which furnished the Mexicans with
fish-hooks. " There is a soul of beauty in things
evil." If a thirsty traveller coming upon one of these
plants kindles a fire around it, the juices of its body
are gradually concentrated into a central cavity, where
they only wait incision to be liberated in the form of
a pleasant drink, half a gallon or more in quantity.
The appliances for getting a drink out of most of
these roots are described at length in various books
of travel ; but however useful they may have been at
the time, the activity of the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe Eailway will in all probability exempt
travellers in future from any necessity to avail them
selves of these ingenious devices. Trees flourish in
spite of the heat and want of water. As various as
the trees are the human inhabitants, and one of
the greatest marvels connected with them, perhaps,
is the extraordinary variety of dialects amongst people
of the same race, who lived in the same country
long before the white man came to trouble them.
They are decreasing, of course, in numbers ; but in
some of the reservations they seem to have arrested
downward progress, and to have taken to some
form of agricultural labour. At present Arizona is
the happy hunting-ground of the unfortunate red
man. There is, I am assured, no disposition on the
part of the whites to intrude upon the reservations of
the various tribes. I did not hear of any one who
14 Hesperothen.
had come in from the East to settle with the view of
making his fortune hy farming; but miners have
flooded the canons, and climbed the mountain-tops;
and now they have settled down into a steady way of
life without any big " booms," as the Americans say, but
with prospects of pretty certain returns for their labour.
All night we travelled on, and when the morning
came, we were still traversing the desert, still passing
through one of the most sterile wastes on the face of
the earth, where, however, by strange contrasts of
nature or is it strange ? there were in the moun
tains and in the ravines rich ores to tempt the cupidity
and enterprize of man. We are continually reminded
of similar wastes in India and in Africa ; but no one,
as far as I know, has yet discovered any mineral
wealth in the north-western deserts of our Indian
Empire. And although Captain Burton and others
have fancied they have come across an El Dorado in
Southern Egypt, and Ibrahim Pasha had such faith
in the existence of gold in those regions that he led
forth an expedition to perish there, there is no such
fortune in store for the adventurous miner as awaits
him in Arizona, Colorado, and California.
June list. Every one who has entered Arizona, or
left it and let us hope he went back all the better
for his visit will recollect Yuma for ever.
Yuma is on the Colorado, which divides California
from Arizona. The muddy waters of the river rush
with immense velocity past the buttresses of the fine
Yuma. 1 5
bridge, with a draw for steamers, that spans it. The
town consists apparently of adobe houses, and these not
very regularly built. I could not visit the main street
for lack of time, but the offshoots within eyeshot of us
were not tempting. All we could see from the railway
windows were flat-roofed adobe houses, some squalid
Indians nearly naked, the buildings, with the Stars and
Stripes over them, of the United States post on the left
bank, and a few wooden sheds. It is said to be one of
the hottest places in the world, and certainly looked
dry and dusty. They say that a soldier who died there
and went to an unmentionable place, returned in the
spirit to beg for a blanket, as he felt so cold !
More happily constituted travellers than most of
us have seen something pleasing in the aspect of the
country roundabout, and have been moved to much ad
miration by the various tints of the hills in the distance,
and by the rocks which constitute the near limits of
the valley through which the river passes. In the old
days, when the stage-coaches offered the only means of
travelling through the district, there might have been
a good deal to see along the road ; but the rail generally
avoids sights, and where nature is at its best, the
engineer strikes deep down and burrows if he can.
The colours of the hills are bright and varied ; the
lava rocks are of many shades, and the sun, piercing
through stata of pure air, illuminates them with
great vividness and force; but after a time the eye
tires of the uniform hues of the landscape. For a few
1 6 Hesperothen.
miles the rail runs close to the river, then plunges
into the most remorseless, cruel waste of sand and
rock, spread out up to the foot of the rugged hills of
the Barnardino Kange, I ever beheld an abomination
of desolation compared with which the Libyan Desert
or the plains of Scinde were the Garden of the Hespe-
rides. I cannot describe, nor could I at any time hope
to succeed in giving an adequate conception of this
dreadful wilderness. For 107 miles west there is not
a drop of water to be found ; the stations are de
pendent on the railway for their supplies. But
Nature, as if to take away the reproach of permitting
such a vast blotch on her fair face, kindly threw in
Fata Morgana. We saw with delight widespread
lakes with fairy islands in the midst ; placid seas
washing the base of the distant hills. This baked and
dreary expanse extends nearly to San Gorgonio. We
were spared the sandstorms which are so dreadful,
nor did we experience inconvenience from the dust.
The traveller, who has begun to despair of ever
seeing anything greener than giant cacti and the
adamantine vegetation which dispenses with water,
is agreeably surprised as he approaches Los Angeles.
If he be as fortunate as we were in having such friends
as Colonel Baker and his wife to take charge of him,
he will be amply repaid for far greater discomforts
than any he experienced in the Colorado desert. From
Los Angeles there is a railway to Santa Monica, seven
teen miles distant, which belongs to Colonel Baker;
Santa Monica. 17
and I would advise every one who can, either to spare
or make the time for a diversion to that most delight
ful spot. Judge of the pleasure we felt when, after a
picturesque run through orange groves, vineyards, and
fields of corn and barley, we gazed on the waters of
the Pacific " 0a\arra ! 6a\arra ! " What a glorious
scene ! the broad bay lighted by the rays of the de
clining sun; the blue waves rolling on in solemn
march, and breaking in long lines of foam on the
dazzling sand, and nearer still the gardens and trees
of the Pacific Biarritz which was about to welcome
us ! Our palace-car and its attendant carriages shot
into a siding close to the beach. In a few minutes
" every man Jack " was off to the bathing establish
ment to conform to the regulations ere we plunged
into the sea. It is an orthodox bathing-place of the
highest order. The Baths are extensive, and provided
with every convenience and comfort for ladies and in
valids ; hot and cold, salt water and fresh, for those
who do not like to trust themselves to the sea. A rope
extended seaward to hold on by was needful, for the
surf was heavy and the undertow strong. The water
was delicious. Generally there is less sea on, and it
is never too hot or too cold for bathing. Next morning
we had another bath in a still rougher Pacific. The
Duke and some of the party were driven about the
country by Colonel and Mrs. Baker, and at 3 P.M., to
our sorrow, we left the most lovable little spot of all
we have seen on this continent. Good fortune be in
store for Santa Monica ! At Los Angeles, where car-
VOL. n. c
1 8 Hesperothen.
riages were waiting, we drove through the streets and
suburbs, which enabled us to appreciate the reasons
which induced the Spanish founders to give the city its
name. In the evening we continued our journey,
passing in the dark over the feat of engineering called
the Loop.
A new Land of Goshen. 19
CHAPTEE II.
THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.
A new Land of Groshen A Jehu indeed The Drive to Clarke's
A Mountain Hostelry Grizzlies Fascination Point The
Merced Yosemite Fall A Salute Mountain Airs The Mirror
Lake" See that Rattle ? "^-A Philosophic Barber.
June 2nd. It is astonishing how soon one gets
accustomed to the rattle and rumble of the rail, and
sleeps all the night through after a time, waking up
only when a train stops at a station, just as a miller is
roused by the cessation of the clock of the mill-wheel.
We keep good hours, and so at 4.30 this morning 1
was looking out of the window at a sea of blue mountain
ridges upon the west, which looked like the waves of
the ocean, so varied in the serrated edges was the line
of stony waves which seemed as if they were about to
sweep down over the great stretch of prairie. We
were passing through a new land of Goshen, at least
that was the name which I detected on the station
board, indicating a junction with another line, and early
as was the hour the door of the hospitable restaurant
was open, and gentlemen in front were to be seen
drawing their hands across their lips as if they had
been taking a refresher in the early morning. Close
at hand the country was perfectly flat, covered with
c 2
2O Hesperothen.
glorious crops nearly ripe for the sickle, and indeed
cut and stacked in some places. Water appeared
abundant ; a river flowing west was visible at intervals,
its course marked by a line of trees. Large black
cranes stalked about in the meadow-like fields, and
hares sat up on end to take a look at the train. The
paucity of human ' beings, except at the rare stations,
was remarkable ; only when I say " rare," perhaps I am
scarcely justified, as there were little wooden huts at
intervals perhaps of ten or twelve miles, where a saloon
announced itself, and a possible ticket-office.
On the east of the plain through which the line runs,
the peaks of the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the
journey was rather monotonous all the same, and we
were glad when our train halted at Madera, about
ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out
and start on our expedition to the Yosemite Valley.
Especial arrangements had been made for our convey
ance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not
have been better for us to have taken the ordinary
carriage which leaves Madera every day, except Monday,
for the Yosemite Yalley, at 7.45, arriving at Clarke's
or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve hours, so as
to bring daylight with it to the halting-place ; a very
desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8
o'clock before our party started from Madera, in two
Kendal carriages with four horses each. In one was
the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with
Crockett on the box ; in another were Sir Henry
Green, Mr. Wright, Major Anderson, and Mr, Jerome.
A Jehu indeed. 21
Our driver was a man with the impossible name of
MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a
good face, seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of
many years on the box. But he told us he had deserted
it lately, and had taken to the work of livery stable
keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to
do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well
his right and his left hand had not lost their cunning.
The driver of the other carriage was a noted character,
rejoicing in the name of " Buffalo Bill," and later on
we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the
possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or
twelve miles the route, which consists of mere wheel
tracks over the prairie, runs over moderately undu
lating land. On the right there is a shoot or flume for
carrying down timber from the upper part of the
mountain ridge fifty miles away. The dust was
troublesome, and the rapid motion of the four horses
scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery
was not interesting; indeed, the great object of
attraction was the little Californian quail with his
pretty crest, running across through the grass or
jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the
travellers. Stage stables were far apart, but the
speed was fair, and it was astonishing to see the
excellent condition in which the horses were at
the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds
were taken out of the stalls, in which they were
feeding on barley-straw, to be put into the traces.
I think the average length of the stages was about
22 Hesperothen.
twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little
mining village where we halted for dinner, a place
called Coarse Gold, as well as I recollect, consisting
of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the store, the
hotel, far better than might have been expected, and
a sort of wigwam or one-storeyed house, in front of
which were assembled a number of " Digger Indians,"
degraded specimens of a degraded tribe. They sat
looking at the new arrivals in the most apathetic
manner, just as they might regard so many flies.
The men were dressed in a compromise of old Indian
attire, leather leggings and deerskin jackets, with
European clothing, caps, bad hats and trousers, and
old boots, the women swathed ungracefully in what
seemed to be pieces of blanket, their legs encased in
folds of dirty cotton. One of these Diggers was
very slightly dressed, and as it is intensely cold in
the winter, we asked him whether he did not feel
the effect of the frost and snow. He knew a little
English, and made the most of it. " When your body
is covered you do not feel the cold," he said; "But
your face is always uncovered, and yet you do not feel
the cold there. An Indian's body is all face." And
that was all the explanation he would vouchsafe
to us. Somehow or another, what with delays at the
stations, possibly caused by our being out of the
regular running, and being an interpolation on the
ordinary course of travel, and possibly owing to our
reduced speed, for the carriages with four horses
did not, it seems, go as fast as the public conveyance
The Drive to Clarke's. 23
with six, it was getting dark as we approached
the line of wooded hills, in a valley in which, many
miles away, lay our halting-place for the night. The
result of our delay in starting, concerning which
the driver had been severe from time to time, was
startlingly manifest as the coaches mounted the
steep ascents of one of the most tortuous roads in
the world. The spurs of the hills come down very
sharply to the valley, and the road is carried round hy a
series of very severe gradients following the contour
of the mountain-chain, so that at one time there is a
deep gorge on your left, and then, as the road leaves
that spur with the valley on that side and crosses to
another spur, there is a great descent on the right, so
that you are continually passing along hy a series of
precipices, to which, in our case, the fast gathering
gloom imparted additional horror. Through the
sighing of the wind in the trees aloft came the roar
of the torrents down helow. The drivers went along
at a good steady canter, and from time to time, as we
came round a sharp curve, I dare say the thought was
in every one's mind, what would happen if one of the
leaders fell, or if the driver slipped his hand in gather
ing up the reins to go round the corner. The scenery
became more wild and formidable, so to speak, at every
fresh turn. The colossal trees, which challenged
admiration in the daytime, closed up in greater volume,
darkening the narrow road completely, so that in an
hour after entering upon the mountain-range it be
came as black as pitch. The lamps of Buffalo Bill
24 Hesperothen.
in the leading carriage were some guide to our driver.
He had none, and it was with anxiety, renewed every
ten minutes or so, that we saw the lights in front
describe a graceful curve, which showed that they
were passing by one of the dips or cuts of the road.
It needed skill and judgment for MacLenathan to
conduct the carriage, because if he drove too close to
that in front of us, the clouds of dust obscured the
view, and if he dropped too far behind he lost the
benefit of the lights. By enormous trunks of trees,
by piles of timber, through deep cuttings in the rock,
plashing over watercourses, descending swiftly into
river-beds, and splashing through the fords over
boulders, then climbing up steep hillsides, on and
on, it seemed as though the night would never
come to an end, and we inwardly, and audibly too, ex
pressed -our regret that we had not started a little
earlier; but still there was an almost pleasurable
excitement in holding on as we swept round one of
these terrible gorges, and tried to look down into
the gulf beneath. That last stage seemed intermin
able, but towards 9 o'clock at night the driver of the
coach in front announced that we were getting " near
at last " ; and lucky it was, for his lights were giving
out. " It is just as well that they did not," said our
driver, " because it would be bad for you." " Why ? "
"Well," he said, "you would just have to get out
and walk ! I would not undertake to drive any one
in the dark along such a road as this." Presently we
heard the noise of rushing water, and gained the bank
A Mountain Hostelry. 25
of a stream flowing with swiftness over a shingle bed.
This we crossed, and in half an hour more, through
the dark belt of trees in front, lights were discerned,
and, crossing another stream and a bridge, our wearied
horses were pulled up in front of the hotel, a large
wooden building, on the steps of which were the land
lord and his staff, and most of the inmates turned out
to greet and inspect the travellers who had been long
expected. " It is a bad country to go driving about
in the dark," said Mr. Bruce, the landlord, a senti
ment in which we thoroughly agreed. There was a
supper in the common room, to which, albeit the fare
was primitive enough, we did ample justice. Travel
lers have complained of the charges along the road,
but, considering the distance which all articles have
to be carried to the Valley, the "heavy duties, and the
shortness of the season, I do not think that any one
with experience of Swiss inns would complain much ;
and if the traveller desires to drink claret, he must not
be astonished if he pays eight or nine shillings-a bottle
for it. The ordinary fare, at hotel prices, is quite
good enough for hungry people, and eggs, milk, and
bread are abundant, and not dear. The bedrooms,
sufficiently simple in all their appointments, are good
enough to be welcome to tired people, for there is
a fair bed to lie upon, and the sheets, as far as our
experience went, were clean and fresh. Nor were the
insect horrors, of which we may have some know
ledge in parts of Europe, to be dreaded, not even
mosquitoes at this time of year.
26 Hesperothen.
Soon after dawn a thunderstorm broke over the
valley, hail and torrents of rain, and the landlord con
gratulated us upon the cooling effect it would have on
the air, and on the absence of dust, which is rather trou
blesome at times. It was necessary to make an early
start in the morning, for it is a long journey to the
Yosemite. For some years past the Valley has become a
kind of American Chamouni, and if Americans swarm
over Europe in search of the sublime and beautiful,
they cannot be accused of neglecting altogether their
own country. The first thing I saw, on walking out
on the verandah of the hotel, was the stage-coach and
six horses, with eight ladies and nine gentlemen,
loading up for the Valley. They had arrived late the
night before, a little in advance of us, and yet the
ladies, bravely attired for the road, were all in their
place in the char a lanes long before 7. Travellers
frequently stay at Bruce's, and our host promises
good sport to any one who will make it his head
quarters ; but I cannot speak with any confidence on
that point myself; still I should think it a very plea
sant quarter for a man who had nothing else to do,
and who had an aptitude for climbing, to go about
looking out big game. We heard talk of pheasants,
but saw none : the bird which is called by that name
not being entitled to it, according to ornithologists.
In front of the hotel was laid out the skin of
a cinnamon bear, which had been shot by an Austrian
gentleman " Count Fritz Thumb," the landlord called
him a few days previously, and which was to be sent
Grizzlies. 27
after him as a trophy of his skill. "But," says
Boniface, " it was not he shot him at all ; it was 'is
old Injun hunter." Grizzlies, he said, were rare, but
they were to be found if you went up high enough,
and as he spoke he pointed up to the mountains
towering away in the distance in grand Alpine pro
portions. Deer were common enough, and there were
some tame specimens of the ordinary black deer
running about in the enclosure. We had an early
start, but not quite so early as the Americans ; and it
was wonderful how well our four hardy horses did
the first stage, six and twenty miles, including some
very sharp ascents from the Hotel.
From time to time we got out and walked up the
sharp bits, diverging to the right or left to gather the
lovely flowers which grew on the roadside, or halting
to admire the giant trees which clothed the mountain
ridges. Pitiable ignorance ! not to know the names of
the plants or shrubs or wonderful bunches of blossoms,
among which fluttered the most magnificently coloured
butterflies. Woodpeckers of many different species
uttered their quaint notes in jerky flight from tree to
tree, or peered at the travellers from the shelter of the
branches. Firs, pines, and spruces of enormous size,
and trees to me unknown, formed a dense forest on
each side of the road ; but now and then we caught
glimpses of the stupendous ranges of the alps beyond.
It was lamentable to see the waste and wreck wrought
in this wondrous wealth of timber reckless, wicked
waste. Charred trunks stood with leafless arms
28 Hesperothen.
withered and black, or lay prone among the ferns in
myriads. This was, we were told, the work of shep
herds, who think nothing of setting fire to one of the
finest trees in the world to warm themselves for an
hour, and are delighted with a conflagration which
may lay a hillside in ashes. And the Indians too are
held to have their share in the destruction. There
was enough of timher wasted and destroyed mile after
mile to build a city. The nemesis must come ; already
the alarm has been sounded, and the State authorities
here and elsewhere are trying to prevent the mischief.
I have often had occasion to regret my ignorance of
botany inter alia ; but never did I feel it more than
when I was walking up the road, on each side of
which was a carpet of flowers, a maze of shrubs and
plants dense brushwood to not one of which could
I give a name. We arrived at the Halfway House at
12.35 as much pleased as the horses which brought us
there so well at the respite, for it was an awful " pull
up," and the coachman did his work at high pressure.
In the course of our pilgrimage we had found a very
pleasant divertissement. The Major, Mr. White, and
Mr. Jerome had excellent voices, and from time to time
they burst into song, giving with great effect the
quaint negro melodies, which are now made familiar to
us in London, from a very large repertoire ; and so the
afternoon passed in quiet enjoyment as we climbed the
hills on foot or in the carriages snatches of talk,
exclamations of wonder and delight, and outbursts
of the ' Golden Slipper,' <0! that 'Possum,' ' The
Fascination Point. 29
Ark,' 'John Brown,' ' Tramp, Tramp,' and other
choruses.
It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been
silent for some time, looking round at us occasionally
as one who would say, " Wait a little till I surprise
you," suddenly pulling up, said, " Now, here you are.
This is Fascination Point ! Won't you get down
a bit ? " And, lo ! there indeed lay before us a scene
of indescribable grandeur. I know nothing like the
effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the
first time from this point. It has a characteristic
which no other similar view I am acquainted with
possesses. You take in at one glance stupendous
mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which
you see the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the
profound valley between them, a long vista of extra
ordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous
waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing
through a forest composed of the noblest trees in the
world, with patches of emerald-green sward and bright
meadows.
I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the
place from which we got our first view of the wondrous
scene. But I have a right to change the name for my
own use. What the driver said was " Inspiration
Point." I prefer -my mistake, for the view inspires
you with no feeling save that of wonder and delight.
These sublime scenes appear to be beyond the reach of
poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet found
a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the
30 Hesperothen.
valley seems to me to be the height and boldness of
the cliffs which spring out from the mountain-sides
like sentinels to watch and ward over the secrets of
the gorge ; next to that is the number and height of
the waterfalls ; but it is only by degrees and by com
parison that the mind takes in the fact that the cliffs
are not hundreds, but thousands of feet high that
these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for thousands
of feet that the rent which has been torn in the
heart of the mountains, till it is closed by the awful
granite portals beyond which no mortal may pass,
extends for miles. I thought as I gazed that it were
pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the
effect of that coup d'oeil ; but the driver had regulated
the period for rapture. He whipped us up to our
places by word of mouth, and the carriages renewed
their course, now striking by bold zigzags down into
the valley for our destination, which was still six
miles away. I shall not attempt to describe my own
feelings, far less can I pretend to tell what others,
probably far more susceptible of the beauty and
grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt
at the succession of the awe-inspiring revelations
of the tremendous grandeur of the Valley which came
upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue of
names and figures? even the brush of the painter,
charged with the truest colours and guided by the
finest hand and eye, could never do justice that is,
could never give a just idea of these cliffs and water
falls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it?
The Merced.
Three thousand three hundred feet high ! " And then
you try to take in what that means. " And it's 3500
feet down to the Valley ? Dear me ! " " And that is
the Cathedral Kock ? And those two peaks are the
Spires ? I don't exactly see the resemblance; do
you?"
There was a sort of wail of delight from us all as we
came on the " Bridal Veil Fall " ; and I do not think
any one cared to know that it was just 60 short of
1000 feet high ! Surely one of the most graceful,
lovely chutes d'eau on earth, lost though it be from
view behind the rocks at the close of its feathery
flight ! But there was no stopping to look at any
thing ; relentless Fate drove us down and on, till the
wheels rolled more evenly, and at last we came to
the bed of the valley some 1800 yards broad, opening
out here and there yet wider and we rejoiced in the
sight of the bright clear water of the Merced, child
of innumerable icy mothers, flashing, sparkling, dash
ing and brawling, like a myriad Lodores, between her
banks decked with flowers and covered with forest
trees.
Suddenly there dashed out of a glade two cavaliers,
and made full tilt at the leading carriage. " To
arms ! " Not a bit of it ! Nor banditti or Injuns
of whom we had met one or two riding sullenly along
to the hunting-grounds no, only two hotel touts
armed with cards of self-commendation, and not appa
rently in much rivalry, for when told that we had
engaged our hotel, they galloped off to waylay other
32 Hesperothen.
travellers, of whose coming they were apprized by our
driver. Our hotel, I may say by the way, gave us
full contentment. The site was admirable, com
manding a full and near view of the Fall of Falls
the Yosemite which had so fascinated our eyes that
we could scarce divert them to any other object
not "Widow's Tears," or "Virgin's Tears," nor the
" Three Brothers," not anything but the Yosemite !
And so, when our rooms were pointed out, we made
off to the spot where the fine cloudlike vapour
rising above the tree-tops indicated the basin into
which the waters sought rest after their troubled
leap.
Our way lay through the usual gathering of stores,
hotels, livery stables for the horses and ponies
needed for the excursions, and curiosity dealers' shops,
to the village street, as it may be termed, shadowed
by fine trees, under which reposed some Indians : one
of whom, an Amazon in yellow toga, went riding full
gallop past us, her hair falling in a black mat on her
shoulders, sitting low, in Melton style, regardless of
poultry, children, and boulders, and vanishing in a
cloud of dust under the trees. Then we turned to the
left and crossed the river by a rustic bridge ; and as I
looked down into the dancing waters certain shadow-
like objects flew up against the current. " Trout ? "
asked I. " Yes, they're trout. They take 'em when
they dew five pounds weight. The Injuns catch
'em. We don't understand it as well." A short walk,
with eyes ever up-turned, and we come out to a
Yosemite Fall. 33
moraine, and, clambering up over a mass of trunks of
trees and decaying timber, the Falls were before us
I cannot write more no adjective will do. "Two
thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet, mind ! "
says the voice. " I don't care," thought we, " it's
the most beautiful and wonderful water-jump ever
seen by human eye." "It only remains," as they
say, to state that there is first, falling over a sheet
of granite straight as a wall, a considerable river,
which in the plunge [comes down at once 1600 feet.
There, in a basin of rock, it collects its scattered
forces, under cover of eternal spray and cloud, and
then takes another header of 434 feet to a barrier
of granite, against which it rages for a mad moment,
till it swells over and escapes from control by another
spring of 600 feet sheer down and now it is free,
and rushes past at our feet, a joyous flashing stream.
We returned through the meadows from the Falls,
and as I was walking in advance of the party a
snake wriggled across the path, which I struck at
instinctively with my stick, and was lucky enough to
kill at the first blow. I exhibited the carcass, or
whatever a snake's dead body may be, in triumph to
my companions. Further on our way we fell in with
an old Frenchman who was carrying a basket of fruit
from his little garden to the inn. With all the
courtesy of his country, he offered to Lady Green the
choicest in his little corbeille. He came from Lorraine
very long ago to prospect in the States, almost the
earliest of the pioneers, but he was still strong and
VOL. n. D
34 Hesperothen.
active, and he pointed with great satisfaction up to
a white flag planted on a dizzy height ahove, which
he said he had placed with his own hands. The chief
livery stahle keeper is a German named Stegman. The
first ascent of the Dome was made hy a young Scotch
man named Anderson, from Montrose ; so with Indians,
Americans, Mexicans, Europeans, there is a very
liberal representation of the nations of the world, in
the season, in the valley. Mr. Hutchinson, the Con
servator of the Valley one with all the enthusiasm
of the American character in everything pertaining
to the country, aggravated in this instance by an
intense admiration for the valley over which he is
appointed to watch joined us at dinner in the little
inn. Full of information, bubbling over with anecdote
and illustration, and replete with all kinds of know
ledge concentrated upon the one object the Valley
the Valley and nothing but the Valley. He knows its
history since the time it was first discovered, and
its natural history and geological formation, and all
about the Indians who lived there and their tra
ditions. It so happened that the Commissioners of
the State of California, who are bound to visit the
public domains, were also at the hotel, and so we
had quite an unofficial and ceremonious meeting ; and
presently, as we stood in front of the hotel gazing
up on the peaks, lighted up by the stars, and
listening to the thunder of the waterfall, a startling
report burst out on the night, and in another instant
the echoes repeated from rock to rock were crashing
A Salute. 35
through the Valley with the roar of heaven's artillery.
It was the first gun of a salute ordered by the Com
missioners to be fired in honour of the Duke's arrival.
The effect was very fine, but I doubt whether I did not
feel full of resentment at the outburst, very much as
the owls and night-hawks might have been expected to
feel, if one could judge from their cries. However,
even a salute and echoes must come to an end, and
as we were to get up early to start for the Mirror Lake,
we turned in to bed at an early hour ; not, however, to
sleep, because the indefatigable and numerous company
in the public room, off which were our bedrooms, were
in high spirits, and the song and the dance, to the
accompaniment of an invalid piano, for some time
asserted their sway.
Mr. Hutchinson had the Duke out early, because it
is one of the obligations to see the sun rise, reflected
in the Mirror Lake if you can. There is no fear of
cloud or rain. In the Mirror Lake is reflected or
was as we saw it the precipice at the other side of
the Valley, the bulk of Mount Watkins (so called from
a photographer who has been daring and successful in
his renderings of the Tosemite), and all the surround
ing scenery. Once a friend and I saw a cow on its
back in the air, by the shore of a Highland lake.
The surface was smooth as that of the Mirror before-
us now. It was flapping its tail from side to side,
and its forelegs were up in the sky. We could not
make it out at first. There was, in fact, a cow
standing near the water of the loch ; and what we saw
D 2
36 Hesperothen.
was a reflection of the animal, actually stronger and
better defined than the object itself. So it was with
the reflections in the Mirror Lake ; but when the snn
rose over the cliff and we looked at the water, the
glare was too dazzling. "It was," as Mr. Wright
remarked, " like the electric light." There were
curious optical effects produced, some being troubled
with purple, others with green or yellow in their eyes,
after a vain attempt to look at the reflection, but that
did not last long.
We returned to breakfast to make an early start for
Union and Glacier Points on ponies. Among the
company at the hotel, introduced by Mr. Hutchinson,
there was a young lady who was well acquainted with
the Valley, and who proved to be a very agreeable
companion in our mountain ride ; but it was not long
ere she was candid enough to let it be known that
she did not visit the Yosemite out of love of the pic
turesque and beautiful, but that she was interested in
the sale of photographs of the Valley, and was, in
fact, a very persuasive and efficient agent of a firm
in San Francisco, who had thus established an outlying
picket of great activity and vigilance ; and I am sure
we all hope she may always be as successful with the
visitors as she was with us. Of what we saw from the
Glacier Point I must leave others to write or speak.
It is reached by a zigzag on the mountain-side a
peculium of the maker, and all the " trails," as they are
called, in the valley are the property of individuals or
firms who are paid by tariff, and we heard " Eleven
Mountain Airs. 37
gone up before Duke Sutherland, Lady Green, Sir
Green, Mr. Wright, Mr. Eussell, Mr. Jerome coming !
Sixteen coming up behind ! " On the plateau behind
the cliffs, from which you look down on the Valley and
at the snowfields on the mountain ranges opposite,
there is a log house and shanty, and there we had
a mountain meal ere we began the descent.
Nothing in the way of riding is more disagreeable
than going down a very sharp mountain-side on a
pony not, for all you know, very sure-footed, and so
instead of riding, I resolved to walk, now and then
taking a short cut, to the great discomfiture of feet
and boots, although it is three thousand feet to the
bottom, and make the best of my way and the
most of the road, which is very fair, down the zig
zags. I reached the plain thoroughly hot and tired,
and bathed in perspiration, in fifty-seven minutes.
The horsekeeper, who came down with the rest of
the party, seemed to have been affected by the
rarity of the atmosphere or something else up at the
mountain hostelry, for he insisted on it that I had
ridden down, and demanded his horse. "What the
thunder, Eussell, have you done with my horse ? " he
asked again and again. Satisfied for the time by my
assurances that I had not ridden at all, he went off, and
then, thinking over the matter, came back again to
repeat his question, till I told him I would not answer
it any more. He was an amusing fellow in his way,
and affable. He called the Duke "Sutherland," now
and then putting Mr. before it. As he was watering
38 Hesperothen.
his horses, he said : " Here, Mister Sutherland, lay
hold of the bucket, will you, whilst I take a turn at
this one." And the Duke did so with alacrity. It was
a day of incessant activity. No sooner had the moun
tain party come down than they were off again to drive
through the Valley. The rest of our party had already
executed masterly investigations at the foot of all the
waterfalls ; admired the Bridal Yeil and the Widow's
Tear, as one cascade is satirically termed, " because,"
says the guide, " it dries up in six months ; " had
driven and ridden everywhere and seen everything,
and we had to do the same ; but it would need a week
of conscientious work to exploit the Valley thoroughly.
At half-past 7, the dinner hour, the little inn was
swarming with people; the stage had arrived with
fresh contingents. Every place was full, and what
with the clatter of knives and forks, the clamour of
waiters, the tumult of voices laughing and talking, it
was scarcely possible to conceive that a few short years
ago this valley was in the exclusive possession of the
Indian and the wild beast. There is now, however, a
great conflict of interests, and Mammon is holding his
revels in the Valley. The State has voted a certain
sum of money, twenty-five thousand dollars, I think, to
buy up the interests of the trail-makers ; that is, those
who struck out and made paths to the various objects
of attraction; but no success has yet been attained
in the negotiations, and, indeed, I should think it
a very bad investment for most of them to accept
their share of such a sum. Macaulay, for example,
The Mirror Lake. 39
who made the path up to the point from which we
descended to-day, must make many hundreds of dollars
in the height of the season, as he charges so much a
visitor, and, besides, has a restaurant where they take
their meals at the top.
Next day (June 5th) we left the Yosemite with the
satisfactory assurance that we had made the most of
our time, though we could not believe we had done it
justice. There were some small " nuages " on the face
of our " Mirror Lake," caused by changes in the mode
of conveyance ; but we found six horses and one of the
coaches of the country were better than four horses
and two carriages of less capacity. Yosemite, I may
tell my readers, means " Grizzly Bear " (it may be
" Great Grizzly Bear ") ; but we only heard of one
having been thereabouts for a long time, and I believe
it was thoroughly tamed. After a glorious day in
the woods, clambering up the steep from the Valley,
and then on by the road the only one to Clarke's,
halted there for the night, when we returned from a
ceremonious visit to the " Big Trees." We had a most
delightful ride from Bruce's, and a hard canter back
through the woods on capital ponies, full of life and
action, and very sure-footed, but rather inclined to
have their own way, which was not always that of the
rider. We turned into bed at Bruce's, quite delighted
with our expedition, and rather anxious to see the
road we had traversed in the dark by the garish light
of day. Every traveller's tale, and every guide-book of
recent date relating to this part of the world, has a full
4O Hesperothen.
account of the dimensions, number, appearance, and
condition of these wonders of the world. They are either
prostrate, mutilated, or decaying ; not one has survived
the stormy life he must have led for some 3000 years
a few hundreds more or less do not signify. Those
which remain upright are scarred by fire and lightning,
and drop their monster arms, hung with ragged foliage
and sheets of bright moss, mournfully over the ground
where their trunks will repose in time to come.
I cannot conceive any object of the kind so magnificent
as one of those Washingtonias in the full vigour of
mature treehood ; but we could only fancy what it
must have been like by measuring the stems, for there
was not anywhere in the forest a tree to be seen which
had not suffered. The best way to visit the scene
for it may well be called so is to strike out from the
road on the way to the Yosemite before the halt at
Bruce's ; but the hotel-keepers and stage -drivers will
persuade the stranger, if they can, to defer the
excursion till his return from the Valley, so as to make
a half-day more out of him.
June 6th. All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after
6 A.M. The first stage, eleven miles, we did in two
hours and ten minutes a very pretty road; the
second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The
ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had
passed through this great forest track in the dark, but
now seen in the morning light, the trunks of magni
ficent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright
with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible
"See that Rattle?" 41
everywhere. It is difficult to find out the exact truth
about the cause of these fires. Some few people said
" it was the Indians," hut the weight of testimony attri
butes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling
purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large
trees they have hollowed out regular chambers, and of
course the tree dies. Such waste of timber ! For
mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which
ere long those who allowed them will have cause to
regret. From time to time we encountered on the
road trains of waggons drawn by teams of handsome
mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the
economy of labour exhibited in the management, by
which the driver is enabled to work a powerful break
with one hand whilst he drives with the other. The
next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly
bad road ; but the horses were good, and we rattled
along at a capital speed down towards the plain. Once
the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly, said, " See
that rattle ? " leaped down and made towards the
bush ; and as we followed him, sure enough we heard
distinctly the noise of the snake, which he had inter
cepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took refuge in
a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself
round one of the branches ; but by a course of judicious
and rather nervous poking it was driven from its
vantage ground, and trying to escape was killed by
the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good
many unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party.
It was over three feet long, and had just been making
42 Hesperothen.
an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it had left
where we had startled it ; and it was evident from its
swollen appearance that it had been for some time
engaged in the warren close at hand.
At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the
Americans call " quite a place," containing not only an
hotel, a restaurant, and a store, but a shop where
photographs were exhibited. The chef-d'oeuvre, a
portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at
Los Angeles, did not, however, commend itself to our
taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at 11.40, and left at
12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan who excused himself for
not working on the ground that " there was no use
in it, as there was nothing to be had," the mines being
worked "out" whose acquaintance we had made on
the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered vaurien, was still
hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and
rattlesnakes' tails, and a black eye recently acquired
in battle.
After a long, hot, and dusty drive, it was with
no small gratification we made out on the flat the
houses of Madera, and after a time the carriages of the
special train. The air is so bright and pure that
the distances are very deceptive, and it was nearly
5 o'clock P.M. before we reached the station, which
had been visible for more than an hour previously.
It was pleasant news to hear that the little German
barber at the way-side had got baths all ready. In
the rear of his shop there was a row of apartments,
each provided with a clean zinc bath, hot and cold
A Philosophic Barber. 43
water to turn on at discretion, and an abundance of
towels. This in the centre of a waste seemed very
creditable to the civilisation of the people. I should
like to know in what part of Europe you would get
similar comfort under similar circumstances. I am
afraid there are many parts of the British Islands
where a traveller would demand such a luxury in vain.
And the barber was there to shave those who needed
it, and to give you all the news of the day if you
wanted it. He was a Prussian, and he grinned from
ear to ear as, in reply to my question whether he
had served, he said : " Serve, indeed ! Not I. I came
away and escaped from all that nonsense. There is
not a king or an emperor or a prince that I would
fight for. Why should I?" "But," said I, "you
would have to fight for the Kepublic here if it were in
danger; and that would not be fighting for your
fatherland." " Yes," said he, " it would, for this is
my fatherland now. But I do not want to fight for
it either if I can help it. Fighting is nonsense."
Our excellent stewards received us, if not with open
arms, with smiling faces. The carriages were trim
and clean and fresh, the tables spread out, and all
kinds of dainties provided for the evening meal. We
rested quietly for the night in the siding at Madera,
and got under weigh at 5 o'clock on the morning of
June 7th, the train being timed so as to reach San
Francisco at 12.30.
44 Hesperothcn.
CHAPTER III.
SAN FKANCISCO.
The Palace Hotel General McDowell Palo- Alto The " He od
iums " The Real Sir Roger Exiles in the Far West -The
Chinese Population For and Against them r lhe Sand Lot
Fast Trotters The Sea Lions The Diamond Palace The
Coloured Population " Eastward Ho ! "
THE British Consul, Mr. Booker, who has been
watching over the interests of the Queen's subjects
for some thirty years here, and who is an institution
by himself, met the train at a place called, I think,
Porta Costa, and welcomed the Duke and his friends.
There had been for some days an infusion of the
Chinaman in the general element of life along the
line, but here it became concentrated, and then ceased
to attract much attention. As the train approached
the wide expanse of muddy water from the Sacra
mento, which charges down with impetuous volume,
and colours the bay with its turbid stream } we could
form an idea of some of the advantages in the expanse
of navigable river, that had, however, lain long with
out appreciation but for the bright red gold possessed
by San Francisco. The bay is animated; white can
vassed craft stud its waters, and the smoke of steamers
pollutes the clear, bracing air. Italian fishermen are
busy with line and net, and nights of ducks and
The Palace Hotel. 45
squadrons of gulls and cormorants show that the
waters are well stocked. It was too late in the year
to see the country in the full affluence of its wealth
of fruit and crops, of hay and corn, and the hillsides
and fields are now disappointingly brown. Presently
we arrived at Oakland, where the train was run out
on a pier 3500 yards long, to the steam ferry-boat
which was to convey us across to San Francisco. The
ferry-boat was crowded, for Oakland is a city of some
50,000 people; and of course it had once on a time,
not very remote, only a few sheds and insignificant
houses. From this side of the bay the city of the
Golden Gate, some miles away, was now visible in all
its pride of place pride but not beauty, now at least
for the city presents no great attraction to the
eye. The streets, running in parallel lines at right
angles to the quay right up the sandy hillside,
look like the ribs of some stranded monster, " lank
and lean and brown." The most prominent object is
the hotel to which we are going, which towers far
over the general level of house-top, steeple, and factory-
chimney.
There is a little pamphlet, crammed with statistics
and with an array of figures and superlatives enough to
daze one, given to the guests of the Palace Hotel ; but
those who are in that happy category scarcely need the
information, and those who are not could not derive
any idea of the building from the repetition of the
ciphers which are to be found in the guide-book.
The drawing on the outside affords the best notion of
46 Hesperothen.
the size, but only actual purview can enable one to
judge of the excellent arrangements, the service, the
table. For once the American idol " Immensity " is
not overlaid. " 'Tis blinding bright 'tis blazing
white ! Yulcan ! what a glow ! " Electric lights
flooding the court with brightness beyond description.
And what a court ! Sweetness and light indeed !
In the great quadrangle, 144 feet by 84, there are
fountains playing, groups of statuary, and exotic plants,
and, tier after tier, rise the pillared terraces outside
the seven storeys of which the main building consists,
painted a lustrous white, shining like purest Parian.
There are 755 rooms, abounding in conveniences,
and comfortably luxurious. Each is provided with
high-pressure hot and cold water, and there is an
elaborate system of ventilation, alarms, conductors,
pneumatic tubes, telephones, and " annunciators " for
fire, letters, servants, &c. The beds are excellent ; the
furniture admirable ; and this vast structure, 120 feet
high, 275 feet broad, and 350 feet deep, is not only fire,
but listen " earthquake proof "; so says the bill of
fare, and so says ex-Senator W. Sharon, the proprietor.
I have not the least desire to test the truth of the aver
ment, but if I must be in a hotel when an earthquake
visits the city in which I am, let me be in the Palace,
San Francisco. A man may live here in the enjoyment
of a pretty continuous series of meals and one of the
best bedrooms for four dollars a day, and there is a
lower tariff of bed and board at three dollars a day.
June Sth. Our first day was rendered exceedingly
General McDowell. 47
pleasant by the kindness of General McDowell. The
weather did its very best to prevent our enjoying it, and
was signally defeated. San Francisco is perhaps the
windiest city in the world, and at this time of year there
is almost always a storm in the harbour, and a steady,
powerful, and somewhat chilly blast, setting in a little
before noon, and lasting throughout the day until
nearly sundown, up the streets. The General's aide-
de-camps came over early to the hotel, in full uni
form, in honour of Major-General Green, but General
McDowell appeared in mufti, which eased us down
a little. A powerful steamer, the " General Hac-
pherson" was prepared for the party, which was
swollen by a considerable number of gentlemen in
vited by our host to meet the Duke, and the gentle
men from Topeka, who were included in the invitation.
The excursion afforded a favourable opportunity of
inspecting the city defences. From Alcatroz Fort,
Point and Presidio Island batteries, which would not
be considered very formidable as far as armament is
concerned, although their position affords great ad
vantages for torpedo defence, salutes were fired in
honour of Sir Henry Green. But in the case of
some of us the sight was marred by the rising sea,
which increased to an inconvenient height as the
steamer reached the Seal Kocks, close to the entrance
to the bay. Of the seals I shall give an account
farther on. They did not seem to mind the steamer
very much until she blew her whistle, when many of
them splashed into the sea. At the termination
48 Hesperothen.
of the trip, which lasted some four hours, General
McDowell entertained the party at his official quarters,
which are beautifully situated on a hluff overhanging
the water of the hay.
June 9th. We spent, in some respects, an abortive
and deceitful day ; not, indeed, that there was anything
disappointing about our entertainment at Belmont,
under the auspices of ex-Senator Sharon; but that
we started full of enterprise, and intent upon inspecting
the great works of the Spring Yalley Reservoir, and of
making an excursion through what was described as a
very beautiful county whence is brought the water
supply of the great city in which we were sojourning.
However, though we were baulked in the object of our
expedition, the day passed, and not in the least degree
unpleasantly, and instead of going to the Lakes we
drove about the neighbourhood of Belmont, and visited
several country seats.
No one who visits San Francisco should omit taking
an early opportunity of going to Palo-Alto to inspect
the stock of General Stanford's thorough-breds, and the
breeding establishment, which as a sample of perfect
order and management cannot be surpassed. I cannot
answer for the figures, but I was informed that the
owner spends 25,000?. a year upon the maintenance of
his stud and stables, and that he has not as yet sold a
colt or filly, or parted with a single animal ; sires,
mares, and young brood now amounting to about 700
head. They are beautifully housed in detached stables
fitted up with every convenience that a horse of the
Palo- Alto. 49
highest pedigree and most luxurious taste can desire.
I was particularly struck with the perfect silence
which prevailed throughout the stables. No shouts to
" stand over there," and none of that " " (groom's
expletive) which is so common in our country. And
partly owing perhaps to that mode of treatment, and to
gentleness in handling, all the horses without excep
tion seemed tractable and sweet-tempered. High-bred
stallions stood out in the open for our inspection, and
allowed themselves to be rubbed and felt without even
laying down their ears or raising a hind-leg from the
ground. In reply to a question respecting a remark
ably beautiful animal, which seemed to have a little
more fire in him, the head groom said " You may walk
under his belly if you like," and then and there he told
one of the grooms to do so, which the man did, without
attracting any unusual degree of attention from the
animal. Outside one of the large blocks of stables
there is a kind of testing arena, in which we were told
it was the pleasure of General Stanford, when he was
at home, to sit watching the performance of his young
horses. It is an ellipse, like a large circus, bordered
with a hoarding, and in the centre there is a raised
stage for the visitors, on which are revolving chairs.
The riding-master, with an attendant, performing the
functions of the late Mr. Widdicombe, sets the animal
in motion, checking him when he breaks into a gallop.
The speed at which the animal trots the ellipse is
known by the time marked on a chronometer, and the
fact is recorded for the information of the inspectors,
VOL. II. IT
5O Hesperothen.
who can turn round their chairs and follow the action
of the horse as it trots round the ring.
The district of the State in which Palo-Alto is
situated boasts of several residences of the Californian
millionaires. One house which we visited, I think
belonging to Mr. Flood, furnished the most ornate and
beautiful examples of woodwork that were ever seen
by any of the party. The house, which was as large
as a good-sized English country mansion, is constructed
of timber of the finest quality, beautifully worked,
painted and varnished ; and with moderate care a man
sion of this kind will last, in this climate, a couple of
hundred years, which to the American mind is an
eternity. There were artists from New York, and the
staff of an upholsterer and decorator of great renown
from the Empire City were still busily engaged in the
place as we went through the rooms. The magnificent
halls, reception-rooms, billiard-rooms, library, bed
rooms, all fitted up with extraordinary luxuriousness,
but in a somewhat florid taste, were of wood, the doors
of many of the apartments arresting attention by their
extraordinary beauty and finish. The ceilings decorated
in fresco by Italian artists, and bright windows filled
with stained glass gave an appearance of light and
grace to the whole residence. The kitchen arrangements
were marvels of ingenuity, and one envied the butler
who would have such a pantry as that which was dis
played for our inspection. Some of the pictures which
were ready to be placed on the walls were remarkable,
however, only for the richness of their frames ; and,
The Hoodlums. 51
indeed, we heard that the excellent proprietor was not
a man of very cultivated taste ; a child of fortune, in
the prime of life and of money-making, spending a
portion of his enormous wealth with an easy hand, but
destitute of what is called book-learning, and leaving
to some future generation the cultivation of the graces
and the acquirement of accomplishments which the
circumstances of his early life had denied him to effect.
It had been arranged that we should return to San
Francisco to dinner, but Senator Sharon had in his
secret heart resolved that we should do nothing of the
kind, or at least, that if we did so, it should only be
after we had partaken of such a feast at Belmont as
would very much indispose us to test the capabilities
of the chef of the Palace Hotel. From Palo- Alto ac
cordingly we were driven to the charming country house,
some miles away, of the ex-senator of Oregon, and we
were regaled there, after some delay, at a very elaborate
dejeuner , sent out from San Francisco. It was nigh
8 o'clock ere we got back to the city ; and the night
ended by what might well be called " an excursion "
to the Baldwin Theatre, which was at the time the
most attractive of the places of entertainment of that
sort open in the city. As some of us were walking
back, after the play was over, with an American friend,
talking of the " hoodlums," famous rowdies, who, we
were assured, had been of late days utterly broken up
by the vigilance of the police, our attention was attracted
to a number of lads smoking at the corner of the street.
Our friend said " Hoodlums broken up ! There they
E 2
52 Hesperotken.
are don't yon believe it. That's a lot of them, and
if you were alone you might find out very unpleasantly
that there are plenty of them."
The San Francisco journalists possess astonishing
powers of imagination. I rubbed my eyes when I read
that I had described "with eloquence the similarity
between a marsh at San Bruno and a patch of jungle
in the north-west of Scinde, where I had the felicity
of spending three weeks with General Green while
the natives were arranging a plan to capture the
party and cut our throats." I never was in the north
west of Scinde in my life, and, although I had the
pleasure of passing a longer time in his company in
the United States, and of being on the same plateau
before Sebastopol when he was there, for a still longer
period, many years before, I never spent three weeks
there with General Green. The Duke was described
as " professing, but showing, little enthusiasm." How
ever, these matters are of very slight interest or
importance ; only one wonders how many of the readers
of this sort of literary work believe in it. One of our
party has, according to a local paper, become a clergy
man, and now rejoices in the style and title of " the
Bishop," by which he is universally addressed by the
party.
While in the train, on our way to Belmont, I had
the pleasure of being introduced to a gentleman
who, although a lawyer in very large practice, is
General of the State Volunteers ; and in the course
of conversation, I heard that he had papers containing
The Real Sir Roger. 53
the statement of a gentleman who had visited, and
which convinced him that the real Eoger Tichhorne
was living not very far from San Francisco. General
Barnes, whose name and character stand high in the
city of the Golden Gate, and whom I found to be a
gentleman of great intelligence, seemed perfectly
satisfied by the story told by this new " claimant " ;
but what he mentioned to me did not at all tend
to create in my mind any notion that he was not an
impostor, and especially were my doubts confirmed by
the quotations which General Barnes made from some
of the narrative, in which there was a ridiculous jumble
of French and English, in order to justify, apparently,
the stress placed by the " claimant " in his story on
that part of his life which was passed in France. He
spoke of his uncle as " mon oncle," and of Thursday as
" Jeudi," and so on. However, General Barnes appeared
to be so impressed by the truthfulness of the man's
bearing, and by the full details he gave him at an
audience in which he supplied the facts for the
consecutive narrative which I was promised, that I
expressed a desire to read it. General Barnes sub
sequently sent me a long written paper containing the
heads of the claimant's story, a perusal of which
strengthened the conviction I had previously enter
tained. I only mention this circumstance because
there was a report spread throughout the Press, by the
agency of one of the great telegraphic associations
which furnish the American public with intelligence,
that the Duke of Sutherland and myself had inter-
54 Hesperothen.
viewed the real Eoger Tichborne at San Francisco, and
had satisfied ourselves that he was the man ; and
innumerable " headings " were invented for this sup
posed interview, of which I was soon made aware on
my return westward in every newspaper that I read.
I promptly denied the statement that the Duke or
myself had seen the new claimant, and although the
denial appeared in print I was exasperated day after
day by being asked questions afterwards with regard
to this supposed conversation with Tichborne at San
Francisco, and by inquiries as to my real impression ;
so it would appear that no one had seen or paid any
attention to the refutation of the story which had
brought down on my devoted head communications
from friends of other Tichbornes, of whom there are
several living, some in poverty and others in compara
tive affluence, in various cities and districts of the United
States. I had further the mortification of seeing it
stated in print that I had used disparaging words in
alluding to the credulity of General Barnes, which was
an entirely baseless fabrication. With all the extra
ordinary keenness of the American mind generally,
there is associated with it a considerable amount of the
Anglo-Saxon quality which is termed "gullibility,"
and the land swarms with impostors who make a living
out of the easy faith of the population. I do not speak
merely of spiritualists, quacks, and professors of pecu
liar religions or medical dogmas, nor of the preachers
of eccentric forms of faith or unbelief, but of the
mass of persons who contrive to get an existence by
Exiles in the Far West. 55
representing that they are " someone else." Although
their tricks are well known, the trade still flourishes.
They are always the " sons of peers," who have got
into disgrace with their families, hut who will eventually
be owners of castles of historic fame and of enormous
estates ; " distinguished soldiers " ; " Maids of Honour
to the Queen," who for some unknown reasons are
living in small out-of-the-way villages in the West ;
or political conspirators who have played a great part
on some distinguished stage and have saved them
selves from the consequences of defeated enterprise hy
taking refuge in the States. And then there are
hordes of persons who are known by the title of " con
fidence men," who travel about on the trains or in the
steamers, looking out for victims, or lounging about
the bars and saloons, waiting for their prey in the shape
of some facile and easy-eared stranger, who in con
sideration of their merits and distress shall give them
temporary assistance. Sometimes, doubtless, there are
cases of very real suffering, sorrow, and poverty, to
which exile in the United States affords a melancholy
refuge. I was obliged to hear in one great city of a
gallant soldier who, reduced to poverty by no fault of
his own, had quitted England and given up the
society of his friends, and lived in a small suburb of
a town on the coast of the Pacific, his secret known
only to one or two officials, shunning all contact with
his countrymen and evading as far as possible all
inquiries of his friends. In San Francisco, where
there is a poor-house open to strangers and to native-
56 Hesperothen.
born Americans alike, there are, I am told, to be met
with extraordinary exemplifications of the "downs"
of fortune. Adventurous and daring spirits, and pio
neers of civilisation, at one time probably possessed
of wealth which was wasted in dissipation, or lost in
unfortunate speculations, are there, talking of the days
that are gone, in all languages of the world, and await
ing their end ; while others who started with them in
the same race are building their palaces or revelling in
the enjoyment of wealth, compared to which our
greatest fortunes are, if figures can be trusted, a mere
bagatelle. How rapidly some of these fortunes can be
made was illustrated by numerous stories connected
with some of the richest men in California. I was told
by an eminent tradesman of San Francisco that one
day a miner came into his establishment to buy a
watch, which he said must be cheap and good, for he
wanted something he could trust to in the matter of
time, as he was going off with a party on an exploring
expedition after gold. This was in the early time of
the great " booms " in the West. He selected a watch,
for which he paid t $40, and departed. The follow
ing day he appeared in the shop and asked to see
the proprietor, and then, producing the watch, he said
he would like to have $30 for it, as he had lost all his
money in a " spree " the night before and must have
something to start with. The jeweller said, " Well, I
will return you what you gave me for the watch, as it
has suffered no harm, and you shall have your $40
back again." The man went away exceedingly rejoiced,
The Chinese Population. 57
and the incident was forgotten. Some eighteen months
afterwards a man came to the establishment, and look
ing at rings, gold chains, and jewellery of the most
costly character, and asking for the best of everything
that they had got, gave orders which occasioned the
attendant to have some doubts as to his sanity, or
certainly as to the means he had of paying the amount,
which was rapidly running up to tens of thousands of
dollars. So he sought out his principal. The strange
customer said, "I suppose you don't know me?"
which was admitted to be the case. He went on buy
ing all the same, making the remark, " You need not
be uneasy about the money, for So-and-so (the bankers)
will tell you I am all right, and when you send the
things home you shall be paid. I am Joe Smith, from
whom some time ago you took a watch he bought from
you when he came to your store, and gave him the
full value for it when he was in want of money," and
so departed, having shown his gratitude by buying
6000Z. worth of jewellery. This worthy miner is now
one of the wealthy pillars of the State.
The Chinese quarter of San Francisco has been
described, I will not say ad nauseam, but as often
as any book has been written which contains an ac-
account of a visit to the city of the Golden Gate. Of
course we went there, and saw all that was to be seen
Tinder the best possible auspices, for Mr. Bee, whom
I have already mentioned, was our guide and com
panion, assisted by an exceedingly intelligent officer
of the police force ; and on the occasion of our second
58 Hesperothen.
visit, when we went to the theatre, we had the ad
vantage of being under the protection of the gentle
man who represents law and order, on behalf of the
municipality, in connection with the Chinese popula
tion and the arrangements for theatrical performances.
The inspection of the dreadful den in which the
opium-smokers were to be seen suggested to my mind
a train of thought in connection with the traffic which
I would not willingly have communicated to my
American friends. It will seem incredible some day
to the awakened conscience of the nation that we
should have ever sanctioned such a frightful crime
as the opium traffic. "It only poisons about two
millions of people," is the excuse, " and brings in one-
sixth of the whole revenue of India." If ever it were
justifiable to utter the exclamation " Perish India ! "
it would be, I believe, in regard to that disgraceful
source of revenue, and the necessity that is imposed
upon us, as it is alleged, to raise it, in order to main
tain the government of our Indian empire. Here in
San Francisco the State has nothing to do with the
sale of the poison, and it is very questionable whether
the police regulations should not be applied to it, just
as they are to persons who have tried to commit
suicide, or to the inebriates in public-houses, or to
places where intemperance is carried on to an extent
injurious to the public peace. Death is the inevitable
result of continued indulgence in opium-smoking,
although it is true that in some cases the victim
lingers on a few years, utterly indifferent to all the
For and Against them. 59
business of life except the one the means of supply
ing himself with his only source of enjoyment. I was
in one of the shops where they sell the drug, and was
much struck hy the cadaverous, sunken faces of the
unfortunate customers, with bright dreamy eyes,
trembling limbs, and wasted bodies, who came in to
buy it. It is cheap enough, in all conscience, as a
very small quantity suffices to produce what is called
" the desired effect " ; but for its bulk it is ex
ceedingly dear, and indulgence in it must consume a
considerable amount of the earnings of the best-paid
artisans when they are no longer able to earn sufficient
to keep them with a full supply. " Then," as our in
formant says, " they will commit any crime to get it."
The general impression made upon me by the ap
pearance of the Chinese population was most favour
able. I do not now speak of what one might see in
going through the haunts where the police regula
tions assign exclusive possession to certain classes
of the population, which, sooth to say, seemed numer
ous enough ; I refer to the business quarters, and to
the crowds of cleanly, intelligent, well-behaved people
of both sexes in the streets. General McDowell, and
many other persons, for whose opinion the greatest
respect must be entertained, look with apprehen
sion on the effect of the Chinese immigration, and
have, indeed, declared that it will destroy the Union
if it be not checked; and these apprehensions are
based upon the possibility that in time millions on
millions of the swarming population of China will
60 Hesperothen.
inundate the United States, gradually overrun town
after town, usurping all the fields of labour, and beat
ing down the white man to the greatest misery by
competition in every branch of trade, industry, and
labour. This party has successfully, I believe, im
pressed its views upon a considerable number of
senators and representatives in the Eastern States,
who can exercise pressure on the Supreme Govern
ment; and the treaty recently signed between the
Kepublic and China contains provisions which enable
the authorities at the western seaports to exercise
considerable control over the current of emigration.
But, on the other hand, it is alleged that the fears
which are expressed of a rapidly increasing exodus of
Chinese from China, and an anabasis into the United
States, are purely imaginary in fact, unreal and pre
tentious. The pro-Chinese party allege that the
emigration comes from only one port in one province,
and that you may go all over the West, and ask any
Chinaman or Chinawoman where he or she comes
from, and you are met with the invariable answer,
from the one port. The friends of the Chinese arguing ,
moreover, that the State at large is benefited enor
mously by the accession to its resources from the Celes
tial Empire, and that the labour was attacked, not
because it was cheap, but because it was good ; that it
is now indispensable, for without Chinamen and China
women it would be almost impossible to carry on the
ordinary life of these cities allege that the agitation
which has been so violent in San Francisco is mainly
The Sand Lot. 6 1
encouraged by those who want to secure the Irish vote.
Colonel Bee represents these views very strongly. He
argues that Canton, not larger than the State of New
Hampshire, is the sole source of emigration. He insists
on it that there are no more than 100,000 Chinese in
the whole of the Union, and that for the last ten years
the emigrants have not sufficed to fill the places of
those who had gone home with money, never intending
to return, or who had died. He maintains, indeed, that
the Chinese are decreasing rather than otherwise ; and
with all the power of figures, which he has at his
fingers' ends as Consul, demonstrates that a very large
proportion of the Chinese who are entered as arriving
at San Francisco and other parts are the same men and
women as those who came some years previously and
went hack to their native country, returning to gain
more dollars.
The principal enemies of the Chinese are the Irish,
who, having monopolised the whole of the work of
bricklayers, plasterers, carters, porters, and general
labourers until their arrival, have been forced to
reduce their rates of labour steadily by the competition
of the Chinaman.
The part of the population of San Francisco denomi
nated the Sand lot, and especially those connected with
the political associations of the city, do not by any
means share Colonel Bee's views ; but the agitation is
dying out, and the meetings, which were of weekly
occurrence, to excite the people against the Mongolians
have decreased in number, importance, and interest.
62 Hesperothen.
The directors of public companies, and the contractors
for public works, are all in favour of the Chinese
workman, who is sober, industrious, and orderly ; and
although the trade combinations among them are
exceedingly subtle, and their powers of association
for trade purposes remarkable, being moreover the
most ancient in the world, the Chinese in the Western
States have not as yet taken to indulge in the
luxury of strikes. As domestic servants, nurses, and
attendants on children, they appear to be affectionate
and careful ; and nothing could be better than the
service of the hotel in which we were lodged, the great
portion of which was carried on by Chinamen and
women.
June 10th. In the spacious courtyard of the Palace
Hotel, at 7 o'clock this morning, there might have
been observed three well-appointed waggons (as
Americans call the vehicle more appropriately termed
" spider " at the Cape), each with two horses of race,
fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and
the Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke
and Sir H. Green and Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr.
Howard. Mr. Wright was " personally conducted "
by Mr. , and I was put behind a pair of as
handsome chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of
which the owner and driver (General Barnes) was very
reasonably proud. The streets of San Francisco, like
those of most of the American cities we have visited,
are atrociously paved ; the torture of driving over
boulders is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram-
Fast Trotters. 63
ways, so that it is not pleasant, if, indeed, it be
possible, to drive rapidly till the limit of municipal
incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the
suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were
bowling along at a good fourteen miles an hour on our
way to the Park, over as good a road as horse or man
ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long ago
was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with
shrubs, and luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it
was unlawful to do more than ten miles an hour were
posted up, but the General did not pay strict attention
to them till he came near shady places, where ex
perience warned him that policemen might be lying
privily in ambush. The pace was quickened till the
waggon seemed to fly through the air rather than
move over the ground. It was the perfection of
travelling on wheels almost as buoyant as a headlong
gallop. The waggon weighed but 180 lb., the power
ful animals " scarcely felt it more than their tails."
I had a turn at the reins by " kind permission " of the
General. The art of driving trotters needs practice.
You must keep a strong, steady pull on the head, or
they " break." Very soon I had the satisfaction of
making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance,
and of hearing the General say, " We are just within
the three minutes ! not ten seconds inside it ! " that
is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an hour.
Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the
Park and over the smooth road, and in half an hour
the Pacific was in sight, and the murmurs of the surf
64 Hesperothen.
rose above the rhythm of the regular heat of the eight
hoofs in front of ns ! Cliff House was in view. Seal
Eocks, in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in
forty minutes from the time we left the hotel, despite
policemen, miles of bad pavements, and tramways, we
drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from
San Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair.
From the verandah at the sea front of the hotel, we
enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle which is, as far as
I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards
from the beach at our feet there is a group of four
very rugged rocks, with serrated edges and tops, the
sides broken here and there into ledges and small plat
forms. They are too small to be called islands, the
largest being, as it seemed, not 100 yards wide. The
slopes are not, I think, so steep as they looked on
the land side. On the two largest of these rocks there
were herds of sea-lions, so close that we could see,
through very poor opera-glasses, with the greatest ease,
their eyes, teeth, and whiskers, as they reposed or played
with each other. Some had clambered to the highest
ledges, escalading the sides by a series of painful-
looking struggles with their flappers ; others were fast
asleep in cosy nooks ; some were tossing their heads
about and making believe to bite each other in sport ;
the younger ones were bent on teasing their fathers
and mothers by uncouth gambols. As they played or
moved they uttered cries between a bark and a roar ;
now and then the noise was like that of a pack of
hounds in full cry, and the effect of the strange sound
The Sea-lions. 65
mingling with the tumult of the surf and the beat of
the waves was most singular and " eldrich." Those
fresh from the sea were shining black, but became
lighter as they dried. The older ones were not darker
than cinnamon bears or unwashed sheep. As many of
those on the rocks had not long left the water the
general effect of the herd put one in mind of a gather
ing of enormous slugs on cabbages not a poetic simile,
but a just one, I think. Occasionally a sea-lion, hungry
or bored by his companions, threw himself with a
splash into the wave, and it was interesting to watch
the rapidity and actual grace of his movements in the
sea compared with his laborious efforts on the land.
One could see them quite clearly through the body of
the heavy billows ; occasionally a bold one would glide
close on shore and fish in the edge of the surf, raising
his head and shoulders clear above the surface, and
then diving out of sight. They were cruising about
in every direction. You remember the sea-lion at the
Zoo, of which the French attendant was so fond?
Well, the creatures below and before us were most of
them double the size of that fellow, and several ex
ceeded the largest ox in size. The monsters are quite
well known ; one is named Ben Butler, " because he
is such a great beast." They were formerly protected
by law, but some one thought they killed too many
fish, and the law was repealed. They are safe all the
same, for there is a law against the discharge of fire
arms within 300 yards of an inhabited dwelling ; Cliff
House throws its aegis over the sea- lions in that wise ;
VOL. II. F
66 Hesperothen.
u t the quantity of fish which must be devoured by
these mountainous phocae (an they be so) daily would
maintain a decently-sized city. The hide furnishes the
"sealskin" used to cover trunks, and the body yields
oil fat, and the tusks are close, white, and hard. These
sea-lions breed far away up north, and come with their
young regularly every year to the same resorts ; but
incessant war is waged upon them by the sealers and
whalers, so that the chances are against the beast
where he is not protected by law, and their numbers
do not increase. Altogether, the spectacle was one
never to be forgotten. A hotel, with oysters awaiting
us for a forebreakfast refection in the background,
waggons from Michigan, horses from Kentucky, all the
apparatus of civilised life close at hand, the Pacific
and its strange wild denizens at our feet ! " Let us
turn in and have an oyster." " What ! oysters in
June ? " " Yes, and good ones too." In this favoured
land oysters are in season all the year round. There are
no oysters found on the coast, I am told, and they will
not breed. They are brought all the way from the
Atlantic coast when they are mere oysterlets, and they
are laid down in the Pacific, where they grow fat and
large, but are not " crossed in love," and therefore are
fit to be eaten from January to January. They are
about the size of a spring chicken, and need some
courage on the part of an assailant who desires to
dispose of them as he would a native.
This was our last day in the city of the Golden Gate,
and the photographers were masters of the situation ;
The Diamond Palace. 67
and there was much debris of sight-seeing to sweep up
visits to be made, shops to be inspected, among
which I must mention specially the Diamond Palace
of Colonel Andrews, one of the handsomest jeweller's
" stores " in the world, though it is not as large as the
establishments of the principal firms in London, Paris,
Vienna, or as Tiffany's in New York. The distinctive
feature of the interior is the decoration of the paintings
of fair women, on the ceiling and the walls above the
cases, by necklaces, diadems, zones, and other feminine
ornaments of real diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and
pearls. The pictures are the work of an Italian artist
of merit, and the general effect is very striking; but I
doubt whether it is a good way of inducing people to
buy the articles which bedeck the ideal beauties. At
Bradley and Eulofson's we saw photographs of many
of our friends, and had one more proof of the smallness
of the world. Every one we knew seemed to have
visited San Francisco. There we all submitted to
inevitable fate, and left our negatives behind us, but
the Duke was captured by a rival photographic insti
tution, and had a sitting all to himself.
The aspect of a crowd in a large American city
differs from that of the passers-by in the street of an
English town, most of all in the appearance of such
a large proportion of coloured people. Here it may be
said, however, that they are colourless, as the prevail
ing hue of the foreign population is that of the China
man. In Canada the number of negroes, or of persons
of negro descent, of varying gradations of colour, is
F 2
68 Hesperothen.
remarkable, considering the circumstances, but they
probably may be accounted for by the emigration in
the olden times of those who were escaping from
slavery, or who went with their masters and employers
into the Dominion. In the cities on the Lakes I was
very much struck by the persons of undoubted African
descent who are to be met with in the streets in great
numbers ; and in Chicago there is a quarter nearly
exclusively occupied by them honest, industrious,
hard-working people seemingly, given to stand about
at the street corners, however, a good deal on Sun
days, and cultivating a bright attire, especially on the
part of the ladies, whose bonnets and shawls were
things to wonder at. There are loafers amongst them,
as there are amongst their betters ; but, taking them
all in all, in the Northern, Western, and Atlantic
States, they are a decidedly useful element in the
population, easing the burden of labour to the white
man, and following many occupations, such as those of
waiters, barbers, bricklayers, and labourers in the less
skilled sort of work, for which it would be difficult to
find American substitutes. One peculiarity, which
may be accounted for by some wiser person than
myself, seems to be their recklessness as to what
they put on their heads. Whether it is merely a
compliance with the custom of the white man, which
impels them to cover the highly effective protection
against sun and cold which Nature has given them, or
not ; or whether it is that the canons of taste in such
matters have not yet settled down to those accepted by
The Coloured Population. 69
people in civilised life in the Western world, the male
negro has the most extraordinary indifference as to
the quality and shape of the thing which he calls a
hat or cap, and it would not be easy to find out of the
gutters of some Irish country town anything more
dilapidated, battered, and utterly incoherent than
some of the hats which one may see on the heads of
people of colour, especially down South. Whatever
other virtues they may have, neatness is not amongst
them; for, with all their affectation of finery, their
clothes are generally ill-kept, their houses are un
kempt, and, where they are cultivators of the soil, the
operations are performed in a slovenly manner. The
traditions of the old plantation have descended upon
them, and influence them.
On my way from Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the
bankers in Montgomery Street I believe the former
of these gentlemen has had the privilege of giving
his name to steamers and cities, leastways railway
stations I saw a party of sailors belonging to the
United States steamer " Bodgers" now about to pro
ceed in search of the " Jeannette" and I was much
struck by their resemblance to our own bluejackets
in general " cut of the jib," dress, face, and figure.
They were in charge of a smart-looking officer, and
had been paying a farewell visit to the fruit and
vegetable markets one of the sights of the city.
They were in high good-humour, laughing and chat
ting loudly, more than is the wont of Americans,
and I could not but contrast their fine physique with
/o Hesperothen.
that of the soldiers we had seen at Sir Henry Green's
parade when General McDowell took us round the
harbour. The detachment at the Fort, consisting of
infantry and artillerymen, and squads of different
regiments, had some weedy veterans in the ranks,
who had lost their setting up and did not look fit
for much work ; but the sailors, probably a picked
lot, were good all round.
A propos of Messrs. Donahue and Kelly, the number
of wealthy men in San Francisco of Irish origin or
nationality is remarkable. Millionaires with names of
Milesian prefixes and terminations are phenomenal.
\Ve had intended to return to the East Coast by way
of Utah, and to stay a day or two at Salt Lake City,
but the railroad company did not consider it expedient
to give the party the facilities which had been accorded
in every other instance by the American authorities to
the Duke and his friends. To have gone round Salt
Lake City would have cost a couple of hundred pounds
more for haulage, and we were much more interested
in seeing Leadville and Denver than the City of the
Mormons ; the game was not thought to be worth
the candle, and it was resolved that we would go back
as we came, in charge of the representatives of the
Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Eailroad Company.
It was only one item more in the long list of things
r we ought to have seen if we could, and I can safely say
that we had a large share of the common experience of
travellers in regard to the relations between the pos
sible and the impossible in the course of a journey in a
Eastward Ho!" 71
strange land, where there are for ever cropping up
representations that " you really ought not to leave
without seeing " so and so. The evening of our last day
was passed in the society of General McDowell, Mr.
Morgan, the English Consul, Colonel Bee, and others,
who had done so much to make the visit to San Fran
cisco all that could be desired, and whose courtesy
and kindness will ever be remembered by every one
of us most gratefully. Like Sir Charles Coldstream,
we "had seen everything, done everything," but,
unlike him, had found there was plenty in it. The
street railway most ingenious and successful, in
valuable in a hilly city like Lisbon the Chinese
Theatre, the Joss houses shops, eating-houses, opium
dens of the Chinese quarter, the clubs, the principal
buildings, the streets, the shops, the markets, the
harbour, the suburbs, and country round about all
had been inspected, and yet each day we were told
that we were doing positive injustice to ourselves
and to the objects which were perforce neglected.
In the morning there was a levee in the hotel to
bid the Duke good-bye and see the party start on
their return journey. At the very last moment
a gentleman came forward with a proposal to take
us to the North Pole by balloon, but there was not
time to consider it in all its bearings and the offer
was declined with thanks. We started at 10 A.M.,
and the Duke was attended to the boat and to the
station across the water by a large body of San
Franciscans, who took leave ere the train started.
72 Hesperothen.
The gentlemen who were with us on the journey
westwards attended the Duke on his way towards
the Eastern States. All day we travelled through
California " the hot furnace " which at first, how
ever, proved to be only very warm, and the coloured
servants had constant supplies of iced compounds to
be drunk for the solace of the homeward bound, and
had laid in a stock of San Franciscan luxuries to
soothe the way.
Los Angeles. 73
CHAPTEE IV.
CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.
Los Angeles Mud-geysers "Billy the Kid" General Fremont
Manitou, the Garden of the Gods Desperadoes Bob Ingersoll
Denver City Leadville Grand Canon.
June Y2h. The train stopped at Los Angeles at six
in the morning, and, drawing up my window-blind, the
first person I saw on the platform was our good friend
Colonel Baker, who had come to meet us, intent on the
good offices which he could render during our stay.
These were exhibited in the form of a beautiful bouquet
for Lady Green, baskets of limes and oranges, and
great bunches of grapes. In this happy valley there
are cares as in the rest of the world. The Colonel
told us he was in the midst of a great litigation
affecting his claim to a large tract of land in which
there are said to exist the richest tin-mines in the
American Continent. Yet why should he care about
his tin-mine? There were rolling acres rich with
corn and fruit, and there were flocks and herds and
vineyards, and a charming home of his own. Never
theless, if the want of that tin-mine made him at all
unhappy, I am sure those who were indebted to him,
as we were, for so many kindnesses, will wish his claim
74 Hesperotken.
to be triumphantly asserted, and long possession of all
that is to follow.
I dreaded the passage of the Desert to Yuma ; and
indeed the heat was intense. No wonder that with
the thermometer ranging from 100 to 104, all the
blinds in the car were pulled down, and we sprawled
listlessly on the cushions. Our excellent attendants
put forth all the resources of art in the shape of ice
and preparations of limes and cocktails ; but the tem
perature would not be baffled. We could just read,
and were aware that we were living, and some of us had
strength enough now and then to execute forays against
flies with napkins to drive them out of the carriages.
How could people live out in the open, and work in
the mines, or pursue any out-of-door employment in
such torrid heat? Nevertheless, there was a marked
distinction between it and the heat to be endured with
the mercury at an equal height in India.
The speed of the train was very respectable some
what over twenty miles an hour and at that rate
we ran from San Gorgonio and Banning on to
Cabazon, through a flat plain, dry and burnt up, very
like the desert around Suez, and fringed, like it, with
rocky and rugged hills, save that there was a great
growth of Spanish bayonets and cactuses of all kinds
among the stones and sand, and that snow was to be
seen on all the hill-tops in the distance. For 107
miles there was no water to be met with going along
this plain ; but the mirage, of which I have spoken in
the account of our journey to San Francisco, was
Mud-geysers. 7 5
frequent and beautiful ; and again I was fascinated by
the sight of lovely lakes embowered in trees, with
stately cities on their shores, changing and shifting
and melting away, only again to assume apparent
substance to cheat the senses.
Once the train stopped to allow the passengers to
visit the mud-geysers, which were not more than
150 yards on the left of the line, and with commend
able curiosity most, of us got out and walked over
the baked earth to the spot. There was no mark
whatever of smoke or vapour to indicate the place ;
and it was almost startling to come suddenly upon a
kind of pond of semi-liquid mud, fifty or sixty feet
in diameter, on which huge bubbles, varying in size
from an orange to a hogshead, were continually forming
and bursting. There was a faint sulphurous smell,
and the ground around the liquefied portion of the
surface, where the bubbles were breaking, was hot and
cracked. The conductor said that all attempts to
reach the bottom of the holes through which the
bubbles arose had failed. Two of these geysers were in
active operation, and the plain away to the left of the
rail was said to contain a great number of them. After
all it was very unsatisfactory to see this ebullition
going on without being able to account for it ; and,
generally, I think we thought less of each other and of
our information after visiting them, and finding out
that not one of us had any theory on the subject which
would bear either fire or water.
I do not think I ever saw a sunset more beautiful
76 Hesperothen.
than that which marked the close of this day
certainly not in India or South Africa, nor on the
prairie, for which they make claims of surpassing
beauty in the matter of sunsets. As it died out, I
felt that " thing of beauty " could not " be a joy for
ever," for it was a combination of colour and of form,
including sky and mountain, that it would be im
possible to see again.
The kindness of which we have had so many
proofs, has followed, accompanied, and preceded us
all unremittingly and unweariedly. A rough with
some Bourbon on board mounted to-day the steps
of the car at a station, and insisted on seeing " this
Duke." When he was told that the object of his
attention was engaged, he said, " This is a land of
liberty (as in his case it was), and he doesn't want a
bodyguard with him ! " But the conductor sent him
away about his business without trouble. On the
platform at Benson a few miners asked " the Duke to
come out and show himself." The people at the stations
were generally satisfied with a quiet peep; now and
then an enthusiastic Scotchman claimed a shake hands,
which was always accorded to him. A sleeper placed
across the rails (accounted for by the officers on the
hypothesis that some loafer without a ticket had been
turned off by the conductor, and had put the sleeper in
the way of the train to wreak his vengeance a thing
which has occurred nearer home) was the only sub
stantial danger to which we were here exposed.
The heat (June 13th) was intense. The thermometer
" Billy the Kid." 77
rose to 105 at one o'clock in the day, and it was little
comfort to us to be told that at Deming it had been up
to 110 the day before.
For some days we have been supping full of horrors,
indeed breakfasting and dining on them, for the
papers contain accounts of the extraordinary homicides
all about this region. Tucson, Benson, Wilcox all
these places were resounding with the exploits of
" Billy the Kid." Now at Tucson there is, I believe, a
man whose name was once amongst the very foremost
in the United States. Who some twenty years and
more ago had not heard of General Fremont, "the
Pathfinder," the adventurous traveller, the energetic
politician, the dashing soldier ? He had gone at the
outbreak of the war to take up the chief command in
the west with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious
war. I was somewhat astonished to find that he was
at Tucson, the governor of the Territory, on a humble
salary, apparently the world-forgetting and the world-
forgot, while " Billy-the-Kid " was perpetrating num
berless atrocities under his nose, and Mr. Pat Garrett
was dressing up his loins with his revolver-belt, and
about to go forth with a chosen band of citizens and
seek the redoubtable William.*
A person who has only seen settled States in
Europe, or the Eastern States of the North American
Continent, cannot form any notion of a territory
* How Mr. Garrett executed his mission and killed the Kid is
narrated in the account of the desperados of the West, wLich forms a
separate chapter.
78 Hesperothen.
which has hecome a centre of attraction to all the
wild adventurers and daring spirits which society,
in the process of formation, throws out as a sort of
advanced guard. In Arizona, in 1870, according to the
American Almanac, out of a total population of 9658,
2729 could not write and 2690 could not read. Of the
total population 2491 were foreign born, and 2753 were
natives, the rest being coloured or under ten years of
age. In New Mexico, out of 91,000 people, 48,000
over ten years of age could not read, and 51,000 whites
over ten years of age could not write. It may be
inferred from such figures what is the general condition
of the labouring classes in these States and Territories.
The inhabitants of these States have doubled in the
last ten years. They are filling up at a rate incon
ceivably great so great, indeed, that American news
papers are fairly bewildered and American statesmen
appalled by the rush across the Eocky Mountains
and down the rivers, although as yet but a small
proportion of the immense stream of immigrants
has flooded the outlying territories. " At this rate,"
exclaims a Western editor, "the old monarchies of
Europe will soon be depopulated." When Mr. Lincoln,
in 1861, addressed his inaugural to the expectant States
he expressed his confident belief that there were children
then born who would live to see the flag of the Union
floating over no less than 100,000,000 of human beings.
The recent census of the United States gives a return
of 51,000,000 of people, but the most eminent statis
ticians have arrived at the belief that the progress
Alien Influences. 79
and increase of the States will not be at the same
rapid rate as that which marked the history of the
Kepublic since the cessation of the great civil war.
It may be fairly inferred, however, that at the end
of this century the population of the United States
will greatly exceed that of Kussia, or that of any
empire except China and Great Britain, including
Hindostan. The population, on each period of ten
years, has increased at an average of more than 30
per cent. ; in fact, nearer 33 per cent., and the centre
of it has travelled westward at the rate of more than
fifty miles every ten years, till the centre of popula
tion is now eight miles west by south from Cincinnati.
In 1800 the Union extended over only 239,935 square
miles. Its flag now floats over 1,272,239 square miles
of States and over 1,800,000 square miles of Territory
governed by the central power at Washington. " We
cannot think," exclaims a [Republican writer, " that
the war of rebellion settled all our troubles and made
us secure in our Kepublic. This enormous growth
of the practically unknown West reveals to us the
grave dangers that threaten our nation. We meet
there the tremendous influences of alien races and alien
religions." The Americans of New England and of the
Eastern States do not feel anxious on that score,
because their institutions are thoroughly founded,
their character formed, and they trust to the great
power of accomplished facts to assimilate the alien
elements and sustain the fabric of the Kepublic. The
bugbear of a great Chinese immigration has ceased to
8o Hesperothen.
practically influence Californian politics, and it may be
safely assumed that the bulk of the future immigrants
from the Celestial Empire will only come from the same
sources as those which have hitherto supplied the stream.
No wonder, however, that thoughtful Americans and
there are many who think of the future of their country
as something quite apart from dollars are filled with
grave anxieties when they see such floods of purely
foreign material, which will in all probability exercise a
preponderating influence over the politics of the Great
Kepublic, surging into the States. Particularly have
the home missionary clergy, as they are styled, been
struck by the enormous influence which this foreign
immigration has exercised. According to one authority,
the Eev. Mr. Stimson, of Worcester, " it is not a ques
tion of spreading any particular form of Christianity or
of Church government, but a momentous struggle of
American institutions with alien civilisations and reli
gions for the control of the great Western country. The
problem is not a matter of cleaning door-yards, but of
saving a continent for freedom." The Chinese Question
and the Indian Question are, they think, as nothing com
pared with the Irish Question and the German Question.
" The Eepublic," we are told, " stands on a foundation as
broad as humanity itself," whatever that may mean,
" but its condition of existence is a universal regard for
the interests of all." Often during the course of the
Duke of Sutherland's excursion it was our good fortune
to fall in with men of great political and social know
ledge. The future of the Eepublic is, in the mind of
Inside Nationalities. 8 1
these men, clouded with uncertainty and doubt. They
are apprehensive of some unknown danger. It may be
corruption of political life leading to want of faith in
free institutions ; it may be the rival energies and the
opposing interests which Washington foresaw as likely
to array the East against the West the Atlantic
States against the inland States, and it is calculated by
some sanguine people that before this century is over
there will be eighteen, or possibly twenty, States
admitted into the Union formed out of the Territories
which are now under the central Government at
Washington. Upon such influences as these alien
immigration may be expected to act with prodigious
power. At a recent meeting in Springfield a clergy
man gave as an illustration of the absolute indif
ference of the foreign immigrants to Eepublican
institutions a conversation he had with a Norwegian
minister in Minneapolis. " There is nothing," said
this gentleman, " in America which we Norwegians
regard as of value except your land and your money.
We do not want to learn English : we do not want to
know the Americans around us ; we have certainly no
notion of becoming Americans, but we intend to remain
as we are Norwegians." The Mormons control Utah.
They boast that they will soon govern five of the most
important territorial regions beyond the Kockies. But
if Utah becomes a State, as she hopes to do, she will
found a Mormon code of laws and institutions beyond
the power of the United States to control. New
Mexico may be considered as a Eoman Catholic State
VOL. n. G
82 Hesperothen.
under the control of an excellent archbishop. Of course
all prophecies may be falsified by events, but judging
by the eighty years which have elapsed of the present
century, and from the ratio of increase in that time in
the United States, the most liberal construction may be
placed even upon the bounding estimates of American
politicians and statists. When we look to the Far West
and see, for instance, how Winnipeg has become the centre
of a great network of river navigation, 300 miles in one
direction, 600 miles in another, and that the Mackenzie
Kiver passes for 1200 miles through what is declared to
be the future wheat region of the world, we may easily
comprehend the anxiety with which the patriotic Ame
rican is filled lest the future of such a State should fall
into hands antagonistic to the principles in which his
beau ideal of government has been founded and has
prospered.
June 14. At Lamy, a station named after the good
archbishop of Santa Fe, where we halted for a short
time whilst the passengers of another train were
breakfasting, a citizen came up to me on the platform
and exclaimed, as if he were very much impressed by
the news he was going to give, " If you look in there,
sir, you will see Bob Ingersoll at breakfast ! " I asked
whether there was anything very remarkable about
the fact. " Well, sir," he said, " he is Colonel Ingersoll,
of whom you have heard. He is the most remarkable
in-fidel in the United States, and I really think he
believes what he preaches. A good man to look at,
too, and, they say, first-rate in his family." I had a
A Professor of Infidelity. 83
glance at the believer in unbelief, and saw a very pre
sentable-looking person, of fine appearance and good
features, busily engaged in making the most of his
time at one of the tables in the refreshment-room.
He was the observed of all observers, and appeared to
like it ; and I understood from one of the crowd that
he had just returned from inspecting some mining
ventures in which he was concerned ; for, if he does
not believe in the world to come, he is credited with
very strong faith in the excellencies of the possession
of wealth in the world that is. His lectures are at
tended by crowded audiences, but, as an astute American
observed, " they won't come to much, for, after all,
people who do not believe anything can never get up a
great enthusiasm. It is in believing something that
the populace has faith."
Once more our eyes were rejoiced with the sight of
the lovely plains of Las Vegas, wide-spreading fields
decked with flowers and dotted with flocks, bordered
with ranges of softly contoured mountains, the courses
of the water streams indicated by bright vegetation
and by growth of trees of many kinds. From Lamy
(170 miles) there is a gradual rise to Eaton, which
we reached at 6. .30 in the evening. The appearance
of the region we traverse as the train approaches
the Eaton Pass presents a strong contrast to the
desolate country through which we have been pass
ing. From Eaton the train was drawn by two engines
in front and shoved by one behind, and even then
the pace was not very rapid, for the ascent is very
G 2
84 Hesperothen.
sharp. All the more could we enjoy a very glorious
sunset, as we slowly ascended the mountain. Then
darkness came on rapidly, and we slid down towards
La Junta into the night, and were all fast asleep long
before we arrived there. In the very early morning, on
June 15th, some two hours after midnight, we halted
for a time at Pueblo. At 9 o'clock we had to leave
our beloved Pullman and change the cars, for we were
to take a fresh point of departure, starting from the
Union Depot upon the Denver and Kio Grande narrow-
gauge railway for Denver, 119 miles distant, and making
an excursion on the way to Manitou, to which we
diverged from Colorado Springs : for to go within reach
of that famous resort and not to see it would have been
a great outrage on all the rules and regulations esta
blished for the observance of travellers. Certes nar
row-gauge railways need an apology. Their raison
d'etre is, at the best, that they are better than nothing.
" If you won't have us, you can have nothing else."
And in such a mountainous region as we were about
to visit, the difficulties and expense connected with a
broad-gauge line would have been enormous, if indeed
it could be constructed at all. The narrow-gauge
carriages, with seats to match, with which we were
made acquainted for the first time, were of course
much less commodious and comfortable than those we
had quitted, but far superior to those on the Indian
lines of the same gauge, and Indian engineers had been
over to take a lesson from the Americans for the use of
their carriage-builders. Atchison, Topeka, and Santa
The L and of Prom ises. 8 5
Fe Company and Denver and Eio Grande Company
have been at daggers drawn and pistols cocked ay,
and fired and at battles waged, in times gone by;
and now our friends on the former line were, like our
selves, the guests of the latter, which was represented
by several official gentlemen anxious to do the honours
to the Duke. The scenery becomes grander and wilder
every mile as the special hurries on as well as it can
over the sinuous line, which is piercing a mountain
region savage and sterile, and climbing by the sides of
ravines and creeping upwards in rocky valleys with pine-
clad hill-tops and frowning cliffs above. The engineer
who designed the line is a Scotchman named McMurtrie
or at least of recent Scotch origin and he seems
to have a special gift for such aspiring work, and a gra
dient-compelling genius not to be baffled by altitudes.
We were mounting towards the snows. Eange upon
range of whitened summits and hoary ridges came in
view, all paying homage to the rugged crown of Pike's
Peak, which can be seen from points more than 140 miles
away. The fleecy cloudland which seemed to lie before
us, as we looked away from Pueblo, was resolving itself
into savage alps. And in these passes, which the eye
caught for a moment, there might be El Dorados still
undiscovered, for around us were cities springing out
of the desert. Here the enchanter's wand is the ex
plorer's pick, and no one could say where the precious
ore might not be awaiting its touch. We were coming
to the Land of Promises. The conversation of our new
friends, among whom were some gentlemen of the
86 Hesperothen.
press, related mostly to mines, and one of them had,
as we discovered, a very certain investment at the dis
posal of the Duke, in the form of a mining-claim, which
was worth, at tire lowest computation, twice as much
as he was willing to take for it. There was no reason
to doubt his good faith, but it was felt that it was a
kind of fortune which ought not to pass into the hands
of strangers, and should be reserved for the people of
the country ; and I am sure all of the party who had
the pleasure of the owner's acquaintance hope that
he has " made his pile " out of it, and has more than
realised his expectations.
Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is
nearly 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The
character of the line to it is best described in the fact
that the average grade per mile is 44*14, the maximum
curvature 6. There are " no Springs " here, but the
little town, charmingly situated, is a halting-place much
frequented in tourist-time by travellers, and reputed to
be healthful. There are some pleasant houses visible
from the station, at which we descended to take our
places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou
Springs, five miles away. Mr. Palmer if General, I
beg his pardon the President of the Kailroad, had
important business to attend to, but he was so well
represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no
one regretted his absence, and it cannot be said in his
case les absents out toujours tort. He is reported to
have made a very large fortune with much ingenuity,
and to have business talents which even in this country
Pike's Peak. 87
excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a
member of the medical profession, who has a delightful
villa embowered in a garden in the environs of Manitou,
where the Duke and his friends found a charming
interior and an Irish- American welcome, and discovered
that strawberries and cream were almost as good in
Colorado as in Covent Garden. A quaint, odd place,
Manitou an American Martigny, with Pike's Peak
rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear
sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excur
sion to the summit, which is rewarded, we were told,
and I can believe, by one of the grandest views in the
world the usual service of guides, horses, and mules,
and caleches a naturalist's store with skins, minerals,
feathers, and stuffed "objects" detached wooden
houses and villas in small plots of garden a straggling
street, and large hotels for invalids. But there was the
unusual feature of encampments here and there by the
roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents
within certain limits which were explained by the fact
that the high reputation of the waters and air induces
people to come from great distances for the treatment
of consumption, and diseases of throat and lungs.
Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons
and pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to
make a halt, than to take up their quarters at hotels.
Poor people ! what pale, hectic cheeks and wasted
forms we saw ; little groups picnicking by the sides of
the rivulets along the roads each with a gnawing
care-anxiety about some dear one's health in the midst
88 Hesperothcn.
of them. Our driver, an intelligent, chatty lad, was
full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed
road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-
gorge wild enough a small Tete Noire to points to
which magniloquent names have been given.
It is not for want of what is called puffing that
Americans neglect the resorts of health of their own
country, and in the States far and wide the beauties
and advantages of Manitou are blazoned forth on the
walls of hotels and in guide-books to all who can read.
I may confess now that, notwithstanding the magni
ficent altitude of Pike's Peak, and the eccentric forms
of the rocks in the " Garden of the Gods," I was dis
appointed with Manitou. But then the visit was
short, and the day was hot, and the way was long and
dusty, and haply it might be that under different
circumstances Manitou would deserve much warmer
praise. It possesses indeed an abundance of curious
springs, said to be full of health-giving properties ;
and in the course of our drive we halted several times
to partake of drinks from various springs, out of one
one of which bubbled up very good soda-water, pre
cisely like Schweppe's best in taste and appearance.
At the large hotel, which put one in mind of the great
establishments of the same sort in Switzerland, the
water served at table to the guests a sort of pleasant
Apollinaris-tasting beverage came from a natural
fountain.
The " cataract " nearly made us angry, and there
was no regret felt when the carriages returned to the
Denver Zouaves. 89
hotel, where there was unwonted activity and bustle,
as the "Denver Zouaves" had just descended in a
friendly razzia on it, and were desolating the hearts
and fireside resources of Manitou. The consequences
might have been serious, as it turned out, to unoffending
strangers. Those who needed it turned into the barber's
shop of the hotel to be shaved, and after some delay a
coloured man appeared, who began to try his hand on
me. Fortunately it was not 'prentice, for it was very
unsteady, and I became a little alarmed for my cuticle.
" It will be all right, mister," quoth the barber. " I
never cut any one. But I'm demoralised, dat's a fact,
having to wait on dem Denver Zouaves. Lor a messy
on any enemy dey has ! My nerve's all gone to pieces
wid their wantin' everting at once at the dinner ! "
The hotel seemed far more clean and comfortable
an the caravanserais in the land of William Tell ;
but our stay was short, for we were put under
orders for a sight which has the most inappropriate
name that could be invented a valley in which the
most extraordinary-looking columns carved out in a
jiateau by the agency of water, have been left stand
ing, detached and in groups, to which the visitor
enters through a cleft in a barrier of rock passing
round the base of a pillar of sandstone as high as
a house. The "Garden of the Gods" contains 500
acres, and is surrounded by mountains and cliffs.
The sandstone pillars generally taper from the base
upwards to a short distance from the tops, which are
flattened out or surmounted by slabs or blocks of sand-
go Hesperothen.
stone of fantastic outline, and they are called by names
derived from fancied likenesses to animals, birds,
and men. The juxtaposition of the most brilliantly
hued, dazzling-red blocks and strata, with masses of
the same material of milky whiteness, gives the im
pression that the scene is the work of human hands ;
it seems too quaint and artificial for the hand of
Nature, to which alone it is due ; and the vegetation
and the trees are in keeping with the character of the
place. A trysting-place for geologists, and their happy
hunting-ground, no doubt. But why " the Garden of
the Gods," I pray ?
From the valley or cup, emerging by another
road, the driver took us to a ravine-like recess,
almost girt in by high wooded mountains, in which
Mr. (General ?) Palmer is erecting a mansion of pala
tial importance a picturesque site surely cliffs,
forests, and mountain all around, and in view one most
singular sandstone pillar, named the Major Domo,
120 feet high and only 30 feet round a mountain
stream brawling through tangled brushwood glades
a garden. But the heat ! That must prove a terror
by day to the inmates of Glen Eyrie Lodge or Castle
which, by the by, was named, as one of us insisted,
from a collection of rubbish on a ledge in the face of
one of the cliffs, which was, he maintained, the nest of
an eagle. It was now time to return to our train,
and we were not sorry to get back to Colorado Springs.
From Colorado Springs to our destination at Denver
there were still 75 miles of rail, and the line con-
Denver City. 91
tinued to ascend till we reached Divide (7186 feet),
whence there was a gentle descent. There were six
teen stations named on the time-tahle. We stopped
at very few of them, and travelled somewhat too fast
to permit our placid enjoyment of the scenery, austere
and vast, which indeed deserved more attention than
could he given to it by passengers in a very lively
train endless alps on alps, not sheeted with perpetual
white, hut rather flecked with snowfields, which con
trasted finely with the somhre pine-forests, and the
rich hues of the rocks, touched hy the rays of the
setting sun, that, ere it slid behind the mountains,
cast a rose-coloured mantle on their summit. The
evidences of a bustling city were not wanting in the
approaches to the capital of Colorado. There were
tall chimneys vomiting out smoke in the distance, and
near at hand trains of waggons were toiling over the
dusty plain still 5000 feet above the sea-level fast
trotters and people on horseback, beer-gardens, fac
tories of all kinds, brick-kilns, and then a fringe of
log houses and wooden shanties, before the train
stopped at the imposing and substantial depot.
It was a quarter-past eight, nearly dark, when
we reached Denver, and glad were we to get into
the hall of the Windsor Hotel, which was crowded
with a mixed multitude miners, and speculators, and
traders, and some travellers like ourselves a very busy
scene indeed. In the hotel were all human comforts
nearly ; hot and cold baths, and good rooms, and more
appliances of civilised existence, for those who could
92 Hesperothen.
pay for them, than could be found in many hostelries
of approved reputation in venerable towns at home ;
moreover, exuberant offers of help and information.
One goes to bed laden with obligations and heavy with
the sense of favours which can never be repaid. There
was now a soupqon of frost in the air, and notwith
standing the heat which we had endured the greater
part of the day, fires were not ungrateful ; and as
we peered out of our windows over the roofs of the
wide-spread houses of the town, we could see the
snow on the lofty ranges of hills, watered by the South
Platte Eiver and Cherry Creek, which surround the
cup in which Denver has been built in obedience to
the impulses of the increasing population, which now
numbers, I believe, 38,000 souls. There was a bright
glare from the gas-lighted streets, sounds of music, and
a tumult of life in the town which would have been
creditable to an ancient metropolis. In the morning
from the hotel windows appeared a beautiful and wide
spread panorama of the hills we had seen the evening
before, peak above peak, none very densely covered
perhaps, or presenting continuous snowfields, but
extending in billowy sweeps far away to the horizon,
all capped with snow, now bathed in a flood of fer
vent sunshine, the snow lighted up by the peculiar
crimson tints common in Alpine regions. There
were duties in the way of sight-seeing and exploration
of no ordinary nature to be done. First there were
interviews and receptions, and the inevitable drive
through the place as soon as the ordeal of breakfast
The Dangerous Classes. 93
was over; and ordeal in some sort it was for the
strangers to file in to the public room and take their
places at their table, aware that the morning papers
had subjected them to exhaustive criticism, which was
being verified by those around us. The morning papers
too had given some topics for reflection, indications
that in the newly created capital of Colorado desperate
men, overtaken by the march of law and order, had
refused to accept service, and were vindicating their
rights as wild western outcasts to take or part with
life as of yore, in reckless encounters and deliberate
assassinations. There were, perhaps, at that moment
some hundreds, if not thousands, out of the population
of 37,000 or 38,000 of the city, who belonged to the
adventurous classes sporting-men, betting-men, ring-
men, bar-keepers, hell-proprietors, and their satellites,
and the scum of the saloons attracted from the great
cities of the States for hundreds of miles, by the
prey which miners with belts full of gold, half mad
with drink, and always fond of excitement, frequently
are ; and if to these be added the dissolute loafers
and broken-down mining speculators, the strength
of the army arrayed against the law may be estimated ;
and the wonder is that among a population armed
to the teeth there are not more cases of such violent
deeds as we were reading of at breakfast. To the
stranger there was no evidence of the existence of
these disturbing elements, unless the bearded and
booted men with speculation in their eyes, in the hotel
passages and halls, belonged to the dangerous, as they
94 Hesperothen.
certainly did to the mining, classes. As to the re
sources of the city, although for rapidity of growth
its wonders may be eclipsed by those of Leadville,
Denver claims a very high place in the catalogue
of these marvellous fungi of civilisation, of which
the Western States present almost unique examples.
There is everything that any one can want to be had
for money in the place, and much more than most people
need. Paris fashions and millinery are in vogue.
There are fine shops, handsome churches, a theatre,
breweries, factories, banks, insurance offices.
The principal street exhibits pretty young people,
who would have no occasion to fear comparison with
the "beau monde in Eastern or European capitals. The
thoroughfares are crowded with vehicles, and spruce
carriages and well turned-out horses may be seen in
the favourite drive, that has been made over an
indifferent road to the base of the Kocky Mountains,
which appear to be close at hand, though they are
thirteen miles away. But here and there in the well-
dressed crowd may be seen a Bohemian pur sang, or a
miner in his every day clothes, bent on a rig out and
a good time of it. The streets, unpaved, dusty, and
rugged, are very wide, and bordered with trees, and
the houses generally are built of good red brick
instead of wood; and there are runnels of water like
those one sees in Pretoria and other Dutch towns in
South Africa. The roads about the city leave much
to be desired ; but Home was not built in a day.
There are many ready-made clothing establishments
The A r go Works. 95
in the main streets, and there is a heavy trade in
tinned provisions. Through the AVestern States, as in
South Africa, the debris of provision-tins constitutes
a certain and considerable addition to the objects to be
seen in the vicinity of every house, and to the mounds
of rubbish in the street of every village. How indeed
could the first-comers in such regions keep body and
soul together without the supplies in such a portable
form of the first necessaries of life ? Having once run
up a town in these remote wastes, the inhabitants are
still compelled to make a liberal use of the same sort
of food, and mines of tinned iron gradually accumulate
around them.
Our first excursion was to the Argo Works, under
very pleasant auspices, for we had the wife of the Senator,
who is one of the principal partners, and Mrs. Pearce,
whose husband is largely interested in the works, taking
charge of us. The works are at some distance outside
the town, but the lofty chimneys vomit out quite suffi
cient vaporous fumes and smoke to blight the vegetation
and to give the people near at hand a taste of their
quality. I am not going to give a minute description,
for more reasons than one, of what we saw at the
works ; but it was a very interesting exhibition of the
processes by which the precious metals are extracted
from the ores and delivered to commerce. The Argo
Works simply assay and reduce ores on commission,
but the business is on a very large scale. Immense
piles, in fact small mountains, of brown, cinnamon and
earth coloured dust and rock were heaped up in the
96 Hesperothen.
sheds, to be brought to the furnaces and turned, when
divested of the lead, iron, copper, and gold, out in
ingots of silver. All the methods for the extraction
of silver were shown to us, but I committed a gross
indiscretion when I asked, in my ignorance, " How
do you extract the gold ? " " That," said the urbane
gentleman who was conducting us over the works,
" we never permit strangers to see." So there is more
there than meets the eye.
The business of assaying here must be profitable, and
if the reputation of any firm be once established there
is a secure fortune for its members. The miners flock
to them, and they can dictate terms. The extent of
mining work in the country around may be inferred
from the numerous offices in connection with it in the
city. As a specimen of what Messrs. Bush and Tabor
of our hotel give their guests for dinner, let me offer
you this menu of the 5.30 ordinary to-day (June 16).
Soup, beef a 1'Anglaise ; fish, boiled trout, anchovy
sauce ; corned beef, leg of mutton, sirloin beef, chickens
with giblet sauce, fricassee a la Toulouse, veal, kidneys
sautes aux croutons, rice, croquettes, baked pork and
beans, saddle of antelope, currant jelly, lamb, tongue,
chicken salad, spiced salmon ; innumerable " relishes "
and vegetables, baked rice pudding, strawberry pie,
apricot pie, jelly, blancmange, vanilla, ice cream,
macaroons, pound cake, fruit, Swiss cheese, nuts, coffee,
&c. The wines were not cheap : champagne 16s. a
bottle, St. Julien 6s., Leoville 14s., sherry 8s., brandy
14s. per bottle. Orders for " drinks " at the bar after
Sacra Fames. 97
dinner were much more general than orders for wine
at dinner.
Denver, in spite of its mineral wealth, is very poor,
however, in that of which the want would make life,
even in America, intolerable. The supply of drinking-
water is scanty and had, and last year there was nearly
a water famine. The cartes in the hotel announced
" Water used in this room is boiled and filtered." But
great efforts have been made to furnish the inhabitants
with a store, constant and adequate, of the precious
fluid, and we saw very considerable works, the property
of an Irish gentleman, erected before the town at
tained its present dimensions, which were to be sup
plemented by a new enterprise respecting which we
heard much. Perhaps no town of equal size in an equal
length of time has ever had so much money and money's
worth flowing in and through it as Denver since the
Colorado mines were worked. It is asserted that the
trade of the town for 1881 will exceed S,000,000/.
Colorado in 1879 yielded ores to the value of more
than 3,750,000/. The output in the present year will
exceed that of 1880. In that year ,$35,417,51.7 worth of
gold and $20,183,889 of silver (more than 11,000,0007.)
was deposited in the United States Mint and Assay
Office. There is, besides, vast wealth in flocks and
herds, and Denver is the place where the people re
sort from Colorado for purposes of trade and pleasure ;
altogether an astounding place, with a future quite
dazzling to think of, unless the mines give in, and even
then Colorado cannot again be poor ; its climate and
VOL. n. H
9 8 Hesperothen.
scenery will always attract travellers, and its capacity
for feeding sheep and cattle will secure its population.
" And as to the beetle ?" Why, no one would have
anything to say to it. Nothing was known of it.
There might be such things in other States. "And
the name ?" Probably it was a red-coloured bug, and
got the name Colorado just as the river, or tobacco,
was called, from the hue of it. At all events the bug
did not belong to the State.
The interest which the progress of Colorado and the
condition of society in the State excite was exemplified
by the appearance in Denver of a party of Hungarian
noblemen, whose names gave occasion for stumbling to
the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel Regis
ter Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling
under the guidance of Dr. Eudolf Meyer, of Vienna.
Although the air of Denver is so much bepraised,
it happens that most of our party felt rather over
come at the end of our excursion through the town
and the visit to the smelting works, and one of
the Hungarians was confined to his room. How
ever, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy
prophet of evil remarked, " If these strangers should
have a difficulty, I consider they'll hev only their-
selves to blame. Some citizens don't like strangers
comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be
awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing
no danger, and fearing none, they went off, and were a
long time absent. Meantime we were preparing for
the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city of
r The Silver El Dorado. 99
the " biggest boom " of mining times " the Silver El
Dorado," as the guide-book, with a magnificent " bull,"
describes it. Our Hungarian friends returned to the
hotel ere we left. They were filled with enthusiasm,
and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the
shootings of which they had heard so much, and were
following in our track next day, and so we parted sans
adieux. How the love of gold has filled these lone
valleys with desperate men ! " They are a rough lot,
snre enough," said the landlord, " but lynching keeps
them down ; and it is much better than hanging ac
cording to law, to my mind. It certainly is cheaper."
" How is it cheaper ? " " Why," said he, " when a
man is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the
judges, the law expenses are heavy, and they fall on
the county. When a man is lynched there is only the
expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys
who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from
Pueblo to Leadville the line is on the narrow-gauge
principle, and our train, which left at seven o'clock in
the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at all ;
for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers
generally, the driver did what certainly could not be
called his level best to send us along up and down
a very rough line, and round the sharpest curves, at
the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we
turned in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was ex
ceedingly broken, and we trundled about in our
berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty heavy
sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which
H 2
ioo HesperotJien.
could be made through such a country as we were
traversing. Peeps out of the window ever and anon
revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged mountain-
tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing
water, near or remote, as the train " hounded " on its
course. I do not know what stations we passed on
our way, but the night was very long, and I greeted
with pleasure the first gleam of light above the hill
tops. The Arkansas Kiver was on our left, and at
dawn we had glimpses of its turbid stream running
madly in deep gorges far below us. At the South
Arkansas station the train halted soon after daybreak,
and then we diverged from the main line, and a light
train took us over the Arkansas Biver by a fine bridge
on its way up the Gunnison Extension to visit the
highest mountain-pass traversed by a railway in the
world. South Arkansas station is 217 miles from
Denver, and is 6944 feet and Marshall Pass (25 miles
away), to which we were bound, is 10,760 feet above
sea-level. There were grades of 211 and curves of 24
on the way, and the railroad twisted in and out among
the ravines like an iron Alexandrine, for ever ascending
till we had passed the limits of forest life. There were
stations at short intervals Poncha Springs, Mears,
Silver Creek from each other. From the stations
there is a good deal of cross-country traffic, and at one
place .we saw three stages laden with men and women
or rather, to be polite and accurate, let me say with
women and ladies starting, one with six horses, and
the other two with four each. These were bound for
Marshall Pass. i o I
Gunnison, and as we were halting for a little, the Duke
and some others got out of the train, and sauntered up
towards the wooden shanties which formed " the town,"
consisting of the usual array of saloons and drinking
places. However, our course was cut short by the
information vouchsafed hy one of the officials, that it
might be as well not to go up, as there had been
a big shooting match that morning, and that one
man was killed and four had been wounded, " and
some of them were on the drink yet." From 4.30 A.M.
to 6.45 A.M. we struggled up towards the pass till
the line came to an end near the summit, and we
were rewarded by some very fine views, exceedingly
like those of the Mont Cenis Bail way or the Som-
rnering. The hills on both sides of the line were
stippled and flaked with snow, but there was no ex
tensive field, so far as the eye could see, nor was there
any appearance whatever of a glacier, the tops gene
rally being clear of snow, which only lodged in the
ravines and hollows. Strange it was in these alpine
heights to hear the clang of Italian tongues ; but most
of the navvies were from Italy, and if not quite so
strong as English or Americans, they were in more
favour with contractors, because they did more work,
owing to their steadiness and sobriety. The line was
being pushed on at an astonishing rate, and one man
was pointed out to us who had laid four and a half
miles of railway in one day, " the biggest thing of the
kind ever done." Our enjoyment of the scenery was
very much diminished by our animal appetites, stimu-
102 Hesperothen.
lated by the sharp mountain air, which craved inces
santly for food. But not even a cup of coffee was
to be had until we got back to the South Arkansas
station, late in the morning, where an excellent break
fast awaited us. Here we were detained some time by
a derailment of an engine in front.
From South Arkansas station to Leadville (61 miles)
the railroad is still more aspiring. The higher we
ascend the less striking are the scenic effects, but the
grades are not very severe till we come to Malta,
where it reaches 130 ; from Hilliers to Leadville the
maximum is 176, the curves being often 15. The
general character of the country may be conceived
from these figures, but no words can convey any idea
of the wholesale destruction of timber which has marked
the progress of the explorers and prospectors. Where
the axe was weary the blaze and the fire were called in,
and hundreds of miles of forest are laid in blackened
ruin. At last we are on a level with the hill-tops.
There, on the hill-tops and in the valleys of a sterile
region in front of you, amidst those tall chimneys
vomiting out smoke and steam, is a wilderness of
wooden huts, " the Great Carbonate Camp " where we
leave the train spread out over an undulating plateau,
broken into mound-like hills and sharp hillocks
bustling streets filled with the most remarkable swarm
of all nations that ever settled on any one spot in
the world. The story of Leadville reads like a
chapter out of some book of Oriental fable. It is a
huge barrack of wooden houses, with some solid and
The Morning Star. 103
important buildings, with masses of tree-stumps crop
ping up in the centre of the main thoroughfares,
pitched over an undulating, rugged, dusty ledge. In
the midst of blocks of houses sprout up the chimneys
of furnaces and mining works, the clang of machinery
fills the air, which is thick with clouds of dust. It was
a few years ago an utterly wild, lifeless waste amidst
the mountains covered with forests, when three
brothers, named Gallagher, exploring from California,
were led by some genius, good or bad, to test the
material of the rocks in the ravine. They struck gold
ore, and silver too, and they set up a claim; and
presently they sold their shares in the land which they
had appropriated, for 40,OOOZ., which they divided.
Two used their wealth wisely, and made more of it,
and, taking to themselves the members of the family,
throve exceedingly ; one, not so wise, if he were quite
as good, did not prosper as well as his brothers. But
the scene of their operations was soon swarming with
enterprising miners. There was a mighty " boom."
Now there is a city ! Leadville is, I think, the most
astonishing city on earth, but I am not by any means
inclined to say that it is a place I should like to be
astonished about for more than a few hours.
The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be
the best mine in Leadville ; and the Duke, Lady Green,
Sir Henry Green, and others, went down the mine
in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names
I shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy,
the best of the time. Afterwards we visited Grant's
1 04 HesperotJien.
Smelting Works, and then back to the Clarence Hotel
and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town
and visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central
Theatre, and finally, where we were told Leadville life
was to be seen in all its glory, the faro and the kino
tables, which, however, were doing but very little
business, as it was not until after midnight that play
in the town generally commenced. Instead of sleeping
at the hotel, we resolved to take refuge in the tram,
which was drawn up at the siding; and we had to
drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe
to walk through the streets in the dark.
We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th,
and on arriving at Arkansas Station learned that an
engine was off the line in front of us. Breakdown gangs
were sent for, and all the locomotive talent amongst
our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it
was not easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted
the expedient of laying a temporary rail to turn its
flank so as to enable us to pass round it, which we
did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got
out and sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change.
But the interest we took in the scenery was some
what diminished by the intelligence that the delay
caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the
" soda bath " we had been promised at Canon City, and
the sight of the State Prison, where murderers were
to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles
north of the Grand Canon, the gorges through which
the river runs became wider and deeper. All that has
The Grand Canon. 105
been written about the Grand Canon utterly fails to
convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur and
wildness. The rocks closing in so that the spectator
in the car, looking forward, thinks the progress of the
train must be arrested, and that it is not possible for
it to get out of the cul de sac which appears in front,
rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred
feet on each side are coloured with the brightest
hues, and present an infinite variety of form. The
impetuous current of the Arkansas Eiver, contracted at
times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards, and
penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss
as if about to leap on and submerge the passing cars,
roars wildly down below on our right at a depth varying
as the line rises and falls. But it is at the Bridge a
triumph of engineering skill that the horrors of the
pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near
that the daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea
of lowering from above a ^-shaped frame or trestle of
iron ; and, the ends catching on each side of the
gorge, permitted him to work on it for the construc
tion of the iron platform over which the train is
carried at a height of some hundreds of feet right
over the maddened river. You can look down through
the interstices of the girders and glance shudderingly
at the hell of waters below a sight and sensation
never to be forgotten. The ravine gradually expands
and the cliffs recede as the line strikes eastwards ; and
though the scenery retains a wild and savage cha
racter for many miles farther, the impressions of the
io6 Hesperothen.
Grand Canon caused us to regard it with comparative
indifference. We heard many tales of the great rail
way war which was waged for the possession of the
pass, of which traces still remained in the ruins of
posts of vantage and observation, and the works of the
defeated railroad visible on the other side of the ravine.
At night we reached Pueblo and took up our quarters
in our own cars, and continued our journey, after some
delay, towards Kansas City.
Liquor Law. 107
CHAPTEE Y.
KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.
Liquor Law Kansas Academy of Science An] Incident of Travel
A Parting Symposium Life in the Cars St. Louis to New
York.
June 19th. Still on the rolling prairies; in the
country of compulsory abstinence the paradise of Sir
Wilfred Lawson. At 9.30 A.M. the train stopped at
Newton, 431 miles from Pueblo, and 281 from Kansas.
Here a phenomenon there was a man by the road
side who walked with unsteady step, whose legs
tottered, and who lurched violently as he came down
the road at that early hour. " He is a sick man,"
observed one of my friends in the train ; " that gentle
man has been taking medicine" In the Kansas Act
there is a clause enabling physicians, in case of need,
to order stimulants for the patients without penalty ;
but I am told the doctors have generally refused to act
upon that permission, so I suppose our friend had been
consulting an unlicensed practitioner.
It would be ill done, when I am anxious to acknow
ledge the pleasure and profit which I derived from my
passage through the State, if I did not record the
satisfaction with which I perused a volume of the
"Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science,"
108 Hesperothen.
which by accident I picked up at one of the stations.
The very name speaks trumpet- tongued for the progress
which has heen made in this wild region. The year
before last, the twelfth annual meeting of the Academy
was held in Topeka, and I find amongst the list of papers
read such subjects as these : The Kansas Lepidoptera ;
Kansas Minerals ; the Mounds of Southern Kansas ;
Becent additions to Kansas Plants ; Kansas Botany ;
Kansas Meteorites ; Phonetic representations of Indian
Language ; Sinkholes ; Elementary Sounds of Lan
guage ; Mound-builders ; On Recent Indian Dis
coveries. And among the lecturers there was Professor
B. F. Mudge, who died last year, whose name pro
bably is known to a very limited number of scientific
men outside the University of Kansas. Generally the
papers contributed by the gentlemen of the State attest
industry and attainments which make their praise of
the Professor particularly valuable. It is curious
enough to pick up in a railway carriage, traversing
such a scene of comparative wildness and vast unin
habited plains in Western Kansas, an exceedingly
interesting examination of the Helmholtz theories of
sight. The object of the lecturer would scarcely be
suspected by the reader. We had already been struck
by the extraordinary absence of signalmen, or of any
of the complex apparatus of men and machinery which
may be seen in Europe, and notably in England, to
report the progress of trains on the lines. Collisions,
however, occur in America where these precautions are
not taken, and the lecturer attributed a good deal of
An Incident of Travel. 109
these accidents to colour-blindness, which appears to
have attracted considerable attention in the United
States. Surgeons, pilots, &c., are tested for colour,
and in the army colour-blindness disqualifies the re
cruit for employment in the signal corps. Altogether
the papers give an impression that in this new State
there are diligent students of natural history and
physics, and profound inquirers into all the phenomena
of life. There was a reverse to the medal.
At a station where the train halted beyond Pueblo,
a card was handed to me by one of the stewards. " The
gentleman is, as he seemed very pressing, outside ; but
I told him you were engaged." I started as I read the
name and address on the card, as well I might. They
indicated that an old friend whom I had left in a con
dition of great bodily weakness and infirmity in London,
was close at hand in this remote region a wonderful
if welcome fly in amber. I ran out of the drawing-room
into the next car, and there saw a man, agitated and
travel-worn, whom I had never, to the best of my belief,
seen in my life before. His story was told, if not soon,
at least in time to let me partly understand the situation
ere the train moved off. The stranger had been in the
service of the gentleman whose card he sent in to me,
but had left it to better himself in America, and had
gone out as valet to an American of good position at
Colorado Springs. He found, however, according to his
own account, that he was expected to do things not
required of a valet in his own country, such as lumber
ing, wood-cutting, and the like, and so he had thrown up
1 1 o Hesperothen .
his situation and was going back to England. He had
had quite enough of Colorado Springs. " I was not
there above a month, and I was shot at twice," he said.
" Once because I made some remark in a bar-room,
where a chap was abusing Englishmen ; and another
time while I was speaking in the street to a man a
fellow had a grudge against. He fired at him across
the road, and the ball whistled within a hair's-breadth
of my head." He had arrived at Pueblo some time
before our special, and as the morning was warm,
he walked into a bar near the platform, while the
engine of his train was watering, to get a glass of
lemonade. As he was drinking it, a man walked in
and called for a glass of whisky, putting down, at
the same time, what seemed to be a bank note, on the
counter. The boniface said, "I haven't got change
for this twenty-dollar bill perhaps this gentleman
can oblige you." The unsuspecting Briton, who had
put the money for his passage to Liverpool in a purse,
drew it out to change the note, and the strange
customer at once seized it from his hand, and rushed
off towards the street with his booty. The Britisher
ran after him, but checked his wild career when he
saw, within an inch of his head, the muzzle of a re
volver which the robber had drawn, and the fellow
vanished. " Won't you help me to stop the thief; you
see what has happened ? " exclaimed the victim turning
to the barman. " I guess there was no money in that
purse, sir. And if there was, perhaps you had no
more right to it than he had." Then the Briton
Confidence Men. in
dashed off after Don Guzman, shouting " police," and
was at once accosted by an officer of the Pueblo force.
He hurriedly stated the facts. The policeman smiled.
" I think you won't see that pile agin," he remarked ;
" and if you don't look sharp ye'll miss yer train, that's
a fact ! " The man had his railway ticket all right, a
few dollars in his pocket, and I told him I would see
him and get him a passage, if I found on inquiry his
story was- true. My companions thought the tale sus
piciousbut I believe it was true, and I subsequently
franked the man to England.
Now here we had an exemplification of the manners
and customs of the district. Such an act of violence
and robbery might occur in London anywhere. But
what of the apathy, or perhaps complicity, of the bar
man ? And if it or they be considered not altogether
abnormal, is the conduct of the policeman to be ac
cepted as quite consistent with the discharge of a
policeman's duty ? Well, whilst I was pondering on
these things, there came to me the best possible ad
viser a judge in this Israel our excellent Palinurus,
Mr. White. He threw a new, if not a side light on the
subject. " Depend on it he is a confidence man. The
trains are full of them ! Our conductors have express
orders about the rascals." And he explained that a
confidence man is a swindler very often an English
man, who makes it his business to look out for unwary
strangers, on whom he imposes with some tale of dis
tress, or some recital of imaginary misfortune and
adventure. As the man I had seen was coming on in
1 1 2 Hespcrothen.
the train in our wake, Mr. White promised to talk
with the conductor, and find out, if he could, the truth
about the Pueblo robbery. Before dusk a telegram
was forwarded by him to me from the station where he
left us, to say that the conductor had no doubt the
man was robbed, but that it was partly his own fault,
and to warn me to be cautious in my dealings with
him.
We have now been travelling straight on end for
1160 miles, with only two engineers and two firemen
and one engine, a feat of endurance which has greatly
exercised the Duke of Sutherland, who, as a practical
director of the London and North-Western Kailway,
has knowledge of such matters, and who contrasts the
performance with the experience he has on the home
lines, where engines, engineers, and firemen would
have been relieved or laid up over and over again.
The head engineer of the line, who joined us, Mr.
Hackney, formerly of Congleton, had become accus
tomed to these journeyings and endurances, which
were brought to the front in our conversation by the
engine-driver appearing at the door of the carriage to
claim a dollar which he had won from the Duke in a
bet that he could not do the distance without laying
up the engine for repairs.
All the long Sabbath-day we travelled on through
the prairie, catching glimpses now and then of wooden
villages, around which trees were beginning to sprout
up, and of the little churches with knots of carts,
waggons, horses, and buggies outside, and people wait-
A Parting Symposium 113
ing for the end of the sermon. Now and then, perhaps
at intervals of fifteen miles or so, are places of larger
importance, such as Emporia, a rising city on the plains,
where many steeples pointed aloft indicated consider
able diversity of creed. An authority, not always to
be relied upon, stated that there are fourteen churches
belonging to the town.
There was a parting symposium in the second
Pullman ere we reached Topeka. Mr. White, Major
Anderson, General Brown, Mr. Jerome, and my much
wandering compatriot, a veritable Irish Ulysses, raised
the tuneful melodies of the "Golden Slipper," the
" Little Brown Jug," and the other tender psalmodies
which had whiled away so many hours, for the last time
in our society, and the little gages which were but the
outward and visible signs of the regard we felt for our
friends were exchanged with honest effusion. There
may be nay, there are many jealousies and causes of
estrangement between the people of the Old Country
and of the New, but between the individuals of both
there is a camaraderie which cannot, I believe, be found
between Englishmen and the natives of any country
except America.
" Good bye ! God bless you ! Be sure if ever you
come to England you shall have a hearty welcome from
me." " And from me ! " " And me ! " " And me ! "
The engine bell tolled, and we moved slowly on.
And we were left all alone ! The pleasant com
panions of so many weeks had gone ! I wonder if they
missed us as much as we missed them ?
VOL. II. I
114 Hesperothen.
While travelling across the Kockies and the desert to
San Francisco and back, our course of life was pretty uni
form, and one day followed another with almost perfect
resemblance in the mode of existence and in all things
except the scenery and the country through which we
were passing. First, in the early morning came one
of the attendants to our bedside with a cup of coffee,
and then the curtains of the little cubical were thrown
aside and you looked out on either plain, or mountain,
or river, or col ; and on the faces of early risers at doors
or windows as the train passed through some rising
town. At one end of the saloon there was a bath-room,
and from the tank there was always to be obtained
sufficient water for the purpose of an early dip, which
was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party.
Then a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at
a country house, into the sitting-room, and exchanged
ideas as to the progress made during the night, and the
stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little
conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the
place where we could stop or get the papers and so
got over the morning till 9 o'clock, when breakfast was
announced, consisting of fish, poultry, meat, fruit (I
had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet
on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance
of milk and butter. Where the fish came from and how
they were kept fresh was matter of wonder, for the in
stances were very rare in which there was any indication
that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or the
river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing,
Life on the Line. 1 1 5
and whenever we stopped at any considerable station
the whole disposable strength of the attendants in the
train was employed in grappling with large blocks of
it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which
were the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed
cooling, and for the vegetables and meat, of which there
were great stores constantly laid in. Then after
breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing, investi
gating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits
and returning them in other parts of the train, till in
the very hot days it was necessary, after expelling the
flies, which were troublesome on occasion, to draw the
dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages, to mitigate
the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally
that by this process we deprived ourselves of the oppor
tunity of what was called " seeing the country," but
after all a glance now and then is quite sufficient to
reveal the general character of the districts through
which the train is running ; and the most diligent and
painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily
for a day on the external aspects of the region through
which he is travelling. I should be sorry to declare
that every one was wide awake all the time of the fore
noon and up to the period of lunch, which too often
exceeded on the side of many dishes, being, in fact, a
mid-day dinner ; but then no one was obliged to eat
more than he liked, or drink either. Then came
the longest stretch of the day, and at its close
another banquet; and as the sun declined and the
temperature decreased, we could take more pleasure in
i 2
1 6 Hesperothen.
looking out at the fantastic forms of the vegetation
which clothed the arid rocks in the desert, or on the
bright green prairie, or on the towering mountains,
waiting till the sun had set, generally in a blaze of
glory. There were, of course, interruptions and varia
tions as we halted at the more important places ;
disappointments about letters which had been tele
graphed for and which were expected day after day,
constituted also a matter of conversation and discourse.
There was an harmonium in the sitting-room of the
palace car, but no one had the art of playing it,
although we had plenty of music of another sort ; for
after dinner the gentlemen of the railroad party who
had not dined with us came in, and we were never
tired of listening to the songs, so original and amus
ing, which they gave with great spirit and admirable
time and tune, for it happened they all possessed good
voices, and the melodies with which the troops of
coloured minstrels have now rendered the world
familiar were then new to us.
During the whole of our tour the weather has been
most favourable. With the exception of the rainy days
in Canada, and the cold and rawness which characterised
the time of our short visit to Eichmond, there was
nothing worse to complain of than continual sunshine.
Now and then the temperature was a little too good to
be pleasant when we were traversing the beds of the
dry seas in the desert in Colorado and California, but
that was something to look back upon with satisfaction,
because there was no time lost in keeping within doors
A Special Interior. 117
owing to the rain and storm or cold. " Within doors,"
however, is a phrase scarcely applicable to our mode of
life, as it would imply that we were in stable habita
tions, whereas, as will have been seen by those who
have accompanied us so far, we " lived and moved, and
had our being " in railway carriages ; a mode of life
rendered so comfortable by all appliances, that it was
sometimes no relief to be told that we would have to
pass the night at an hotel.
For nine days and nine nights in succession, on one
occasion, we never slept out of the carriages or got out
of the train except to take a stroll about the station, or
a peep into the street of a small town whilst we were
waiting, and one got quite accustomed to that nomad
and yet civilised mode of existence, where at every
halting-place we were supplied with the latest intelli
gence by the local papers, and made the recipients of
some attention or courtesy, visits and compliments (the
remarks of the other sort not being many), bouquets of
flowers, presents of fruit, and plenty of conversation.
But that my critics might say I dilate too much upon
the material enjoyment of life, I would describe at
length the means which were supplied in the course of
these long journeys for animal enjoyment. Never could
there be found more attentive and obliging domestics
than the coloured men who waited upon us Arthur
and his fellows. There lived in the kitchen compart
ment of the train, at the end of one of the saloons, a
coloured cook, very intelligent and gossipy, full of
quaint conceits and dishes and conversation, who
1 1 8 Hesperothen.
commenced life as a slave on a Southern plantation,
probably adopted for indoor purposes on account of his
smartness. He liberated himself in the course of the
war, and marched off with a regiment of Federals in
the capacity of cook and body-servant to one of the
officers, wherein he saw a great amount of very hard
fighting at very close quarters. This adventurous
modern Othello was wont to discourse with much ani
mation when he came out for a breath of fresh air on
the platform and could find anybody to talk to him,
although he could move no more tender heart than
that of Sir Henry Green. The gentlemen of the
Atchison, &c., Railway, when travelling with us, had
a Gordon lieu in the saloon an Italian or Frenchman,
I think, or at all events a French-speaking man, who
had served also, and would have done credit to an
establishment where faults in a chef would not lightly
be condoned. In the interchange of courtesies, Mr.
White and his friends invited our party now and then
to dine in the saloon, which was not " across the way,"
but up a little, on the line, being the saloon in front
of us.
But here we are at Kansas City once again ! At
5.30 P.M. the train arrived at the platform, which was
gay with a Sunday crowd, of whom many were negresses
black, brown, brindled, and yellow citoyennes in
much variety of colour and garmenting. Unlike Samson,
their weakness is in their hair, and like Achilles, they
are vulnerable about the heels (to the arrows of an
aesthetical criticism, which accepts the Greek idea of
St. Louis. 1 19
beauty in form) ; but they seemed to enjoy life amaz
ingly, and not to be in need of beaux; perhaps the
happiest people in the world now that their chattel
days are over. It was late when we turned into our
berths, for it was a -lovely night and the fire-flies exer
cised a great attraction over us, but at last the charm
was worn out and we slept till morning without a
break.
June 20th. Still the same boundless plain. In vain
does one look for the grass fields with close, even,
carpet-like surface to be seen in Europe. We are still
passing through exceedingly rich land the fields covered
with flocks of sheep and herds of good-looking cattle.
There are more trees by the stream-side, and shrubs
growing in the hollows. Habitations are more frequent,
and so are fencing and planting. As the sun was
setting we approached St. Louis. There were some
park-like glades, and vistas opening up to pleasant
mansions, amid grounds showing marks of culture.
There had been a severe thunderstorm the night before,
and the St. Louis Station had still traces of its effects
in pools of mud. But the rain had cooled the air, and
the people were rejoicing exceedingly in the great
improvement that had taken place in the weather, for,
they told us, men and women had been dropping down
with the heat a few days ago as though they had been
struck by musketry.
The appearance of the St. Louis Terminus gave
one a high idea of the importance of this city. Eight
trains were waiting on their respective lines to start
1 2 o Hesperothen .
with passengers to all parts of the Union ; and by
the simple device of placing at the end of each train
a large board announcing its destination and the time
of its departure, much anxiety was saved to intending
passengers, not to speak of the irritation of officials
avoided by this simple expedient. The journey was
continued by the Indianopolis and Yandalia, and by
what is called the "Pa'handle" line to the Pennsyl
vania Kailroad on to Philadelphia. The train was timed
on Tuesday so that we were able to see the famous
passage over the Alleghany Mountains from Cone-
maugh to Altoona. For nearly eleven miles we were
carried without steam, and with the breaks on, through
very fine scenery, down the mountain-side, but the
summit was crossed in the darkness of a tunnel 1200
yards long. There are some striking engineering
feats in the way of curves and gradients, and the
trace of the line is very bold all the way down to
Altoona, where the Pennsylvania Kailroad engine and
machinery shops are established the centre of a
population of some 17,000 souls, where twenty years
ago "there were," as a friend said, "only bears,
deer, woodpeckers, and skallywags." The Duke, Mr.
Stephen, and our railway experts got out and visited
the workshops, and came back very much pleased at
the discovery of several London and North-Western
men in good positions in the Pennsylvania Eailroad
Company's service, who welcomed their old directors
with effusion, and that there was nothing visible there
for Crewe to copy, unless perhaps cast-iron wheels.
The A lleghany Mountains. 1 2 1
The speed at which we travelled was a sensible proof
that we were once more on the line of our old friends
of Pennsylvania. From Altoona to Harrisburg, 132
miles, we rattled along in two hours and forty-three
minutes. On another stretch of the line we travelled
eighty-three miles in one hour and forty-two seconds,
including stoppages ; and the rapid motion was very
agreeable, as there was a perceptible increase of tem
perature after we reached the plains and approached
the beautiful valley of the Susquehannah a scene of
industry, prosperity, and peace. Fortunately there
was a good light on the river, and we had a fine
view of the country all the way to Harrisburg under
the rays of the setting sun. A little farther on we
were gratified by the appearance of General Koberts
at a station on the way, where he was awaiting the
Duke to congratulate him on his safe return from
the Western expedition, and we bade him farewell at
his own house, with many sincere and well-deserved
acknowledgments of great and constant kindness.
Then over the river by the noble bridge, and on to
Philadelphia. We did not visit Pittsburg, which was
vomiting out masses of smoke, nor did we halt this
time at the capital of the Quaker State.
122 Hesperothen.
CHAPTEK VI.
NEW YOKE NEWPORT DEPARTURE.
Coney Island Newport Bass-fishing Habit of Spitting
Brighton Beach Newport Coaching Extra Ecclesiam Vic
tories of American Horses Newport Avenues Ileturn to New
York Our last day in America.
THE special train was detained by the immense
amount of traffic on the line, as we approached New
York, and we did not reach Brooklyn till a little
before 11 P.M. on June 21, so that it was past mid
night when we ascended the steps of the Windsor
Hotel, which we had selected by way of a change,
and found to be every way commendable, with the
exception of its distance from the busy parts of the
city. The following day was devoted to letter reading
and writing, receiving visitors, and various attempts
" to go out," which were not generally successful, for
New York was palpitating with the intense heat. The
" heated term " was in full vigour, but it was now
quite temperate in comparison to the excesses which
had marked its advent some time before our arrival.
In the evening we got up strength and courage
enough to go to Wallack's Theatre, a very pretty,
well-constructed house, and saw " The World " excel
lently acted and admirably put on the stage. Next
Coney Island. 123
day, June 23rd, in virtue of a solemn league and
covenant with Uncle Sam and Mr. Hurlbut, the Duke
and I devoted ourselves to fresh fields and pastures new,
and ordered ourselves accordingly for Coney Island.
A long bank of sand by the sea-shore has, by an
accident, become one of the most crowded resorts in the
world, and to-day there were races in the new ground.
It was not, as we found, so easy to get there. Having
the advantage of two experienced guides, our party of
four managed to break up into two and to miss each
other ; one taking the boat at one iron pier, and the
other embarking by a different mode of conveyance.
But as we were bound to see Coney Island, the Bace-
course being a secondary object, our temporary separa
tion did not prove a source of great annoyance.
The early settlers would indeed have been astonished
if they could look round and see what they have
brought the quiet place to in these later days. They
were Quakers persecuted by the good Christians of New
England, who were driven out of Boston as ruthlessly
as though they had been malignants and papists of the
worst sort. They settled the township of Gravesend
about 250 years ago, and amongst the conspicuous
settlers occurs the title and name of Lady Deborah
Moody, of whom this deponent knows nothing, but
wonders how, with such a title, she managed to have
influence amongst a Society of Friends.
A ship was built, so the Americans say, of 70 tons in
1699, by the descendants of the Quaker settlers, and less
than 100 years later the bold republicans, abandoning
1 24 Hesperothen .
the doctrines of peace, engaged and captured an English
corvette off the island. It was all along of General
How, who landed his troops here and set the people to
work on the fortifications he threw up, whether they
would or no. A corvette, bound to Halifax, anchored
off the island, and an old whaler, who, says the
chronicler, must have been smarting under the wrongs
he had suffered at the hands of the red-coats, or who
possibly regarded the work as he would the capture of
a finner or a bottle-nose, imparted to a few trusty
friends the idea of " cutting her out." So embarking
at night in a couple of boats, they stole down with
muffled oars and ran up under the stern of the ship.
There was no watch, and through the cabin windows
the officers could be seen playing cards. The crews of
the boats boarded the corvette simultaneously, seized,
overpowered, and bound the officers and men, lowered
them into their boats, and, having set the man-of-war
on fire, pulled over to the Jersey shore with their
prisoners. It is to be hoped that the demeanour and
language of the captain have been misrepresented by
local tradition ; but he is said to have cried bitterly,
and to have exclaimed, " To be surprised and captured
by two blooming egg-shells is too blasted bad ! "
There was a long period of neglect before Fashion
and the populace found out the attractions of Coney
Island. Fishermen, oyster-catchers, and sportsmen
visited the sandy beach from time to time ; then after
a while a few houses were run up of a very inferior
class, and these were frequented by the very worst of
A Happy Day. 125
the scum of New York, so that it was almost dangerous,
and certainly disgusting, to go among them, while the
scenes on the beach, to which the present proceedings
afford such a contrast, were described as being of the
most disgraceful character.
The official directions for spending a day at Coney
Island certainly indicate a belief in the possession of
enormous physical energy and indefatigable curiosity on
the part of the visitors in those who compose the code.
Having given you sailing instructions by the iron steam
boat to Bay Ridge for the Sea Beach Eailway (ticket
35 cents), you are to visit the Sea View Palace Hotel,
the Piazza, the two iron piers, the Camera obscura
(10 cents), the Great Milking Cow, the top of the ob
servatory (15 cents) ; then to eat a Ehode Island clam
bake (50 cents), visit the aquarium (10 cents), take a
park waggon and ride over the Concourse to Brighton ;
see the hotel grounds and bathing pavilion there ;
then take the Marine Eailway (5 cents) to Manhattan
Beach ; visit the Oriental Hotel and take the Marine
Eailway to Point Breeze (10 cents) and return back
to Brighton Beach Pavilion and take a bath ; then see
the Museum of Living Wonders (10 cents), dine at the
Hotel Brighton, hear a concert in the evening, and
return to New York by 11 o'clock. "This trip,"
observes the compiler, "may fatigue one, but the
excitement soon overcomes the trouble." Coney
Island is indeed an institution.
Along the sea front of the bank for some three or four
miles there has been constructed an esplanade lined
126 Hesperothen.
with seats, and defended from the sea by a stone wall.
Outside there is a belt of shingle on which the surf
breaks, but not violently, unless in bad weather. Large
bathing establishments, with every appliance, are placed
at convenient intervals along the shore. Here in the
season tens of thousands of people may be seen, all
properly and decently attired, disporting in the waves.
At the time of our visit, the hour and the season
of the year seemed not to be favourable to the in
dulgence. We were too late in the day. It is. an
early place, and from 7 till 9 A.M. from the month
of June to the end of September are described as
the orthodox periods. Nevertheless the spectacle was
quite unique, and if you can imagine Brighton with
half-a-dozen Pavilions blown out to twice their size,
and the largest hotels mutiplied by ten in length,
breadth, and depth, you may fancy what the Coney
Island front is, provided always that you can also
conjure up (literally) myriads of well-dressed men,
women, and children perambulating the esplanade or
sitting in the grounds around the various establish
ments which occupy a large space inland pavilions,
hotels, exhibitions, restaurants, and club-houses. There
were fireworks going on in broad day ; but these were
principally for the purpose of exhibiting very ingenious
Japanese figures, which were discharged from bombs,
and which gradually descending were objects of eager
competition amongst the younger members of the
enormous multitude. And with all so much good-
humour, so much propriety of demeanour ; none of the
Habit of Spitting. 1 27
brutal rushes of " roughs " which disgust one with
English popular assemblages none of the brutal horse
play, and screams, and unmeaning cries of the 'Arrys
and the Bills of our popular resorts.
Looking at Mr. Marshall's excellent book on the
United States, which we found to be copious and
accurate, I was struck by what he says respecting
a habit of the people which, according to my ex
perience, has very much decreased since I was last
in the States, but which he finds in as full force, and
repulsive as ever. I am bound to say I think the
habit of spitting has very much diminished, but from
numerous evidences, from the presence of spittoons in
every room and in the passages of the hotels, and
from public admonitions, such as one we saw at some
of the theatres, that the audience would not spit upon
the stage, I must believe that it still exists. What
the cause of this habit may be it is not easy to de
termine. It cannot be in the race, because it is
scarcely an " English " habit. I would be inclined to
attribute it to the drinking of iced water, but ladies in
America use the national beverage quite as freely as
the men, and spitting is a masculine failing. Can it
be a result of climate ? Scarcely. For in the States,
British-born people do not seem to be affected by the
influence of the habit in those around them after
many years' residence. Smokers and non-smokers alike
indulge in the practice, so that tobacco cannot be
charged with the disagreeable custom. I assume that
it is as common as Mr. Marshall asserts it is, but
128 Hesperothen.
I am bound to say, according to my own observation
and experience on my last visit, that there was no
evidence to show that it was common or national.
Chewing tobacco also appears to me to have fewer
votaries than formerly. A remark to that effect at
Eichmond brought upon me something like a rebuke
from the gentleman to whom I spoke, a Judge of the
land. "No, sir," he said, " not at all ! I rather think
we chew more than ever ! " And, to illustrate his faith,
he produced a silver box, shaped a plug of no doubt
very excellent weed, and thrust it into his mouth. I
do not recollect, however, meeting a gentleman in the
course of our journey who used tobacco in that way,
with that exception.
In the grounds in front of the pavilion, where an
excellent orchestra of some one hundred performers
were playing, sat a very large and appreciative audience,
who applauded with discrimination, and were content
with the good performance of each piece.
Our common rendezvous was the Surf Club, one of
the numerous convivial associations for which Coney
Island seems to be specially adapted ; and I presume
the name had nothing at all to do with any supposed
amusements of the members in connection with the
surf on the beach outside. There was some difficulty
in finding our 'way through a labyrinth of rooms all
filled with guests : with corridors swarming with
people ; with vast halls, where at hundreds of tables
there were seated people engaged in the consumption
of the menu of a Coney Island restaurant, abounding
Brighton Beach. 129
in strange dishes and attended by armies of waiters.
At a rough guess, I should say there may have been
about 4000 people in the building and this was but
one of several I think the Brighton Beach Hotel,
but of this I am not quite sure.
When the Prospect Park and Coney Island Kailroad
was opened none believed in its success, but the fore
sight of the projector was justified ; and when it was
found that respectable people would go there, if the
vagabonds of both sexes and their associates were
driven away, the police asserted themselves, and swept
off the gamblers and the others of a still more
dangerous class, who were to be found there in
increasing numbers every year ; and then hotels were
erected and landing-places made for the steamers ;
and now the electric light blazes in a hundred
halls, and music and rejoicing sound late into the
night, contending with the noise of the surf upon the
beach. Bowling-alleys, shooting-grounds, archery,
croquet, sailing and rowing, all invite some of the
visitors, according to their tastes. An amusing exempli
fication of the ingenuity of American advertisers is
afforded by the sailing vessels, which display in enor
mous characters on their main-sails the names of quack
medicines, from which no corner of this continent
appears to be safe.
On June 24th the party, which had been somewhat
dislocated, reunited their scattered forces, and at
2 P.M. started by train after a little repose, for New
port, E.I. It was a kind of holiday after our travels,
VOL. n. K
1 30 Hesperothen.
but somewhat out of place, for we were told the
Ocean House was scarcely ready ; but we should not
have found it out, had we not been informed of the
fact. The newspapers had been on the alert, and soon
after the Duke's arrival visitors began to call and
invitations to pour in some well-nigh irresistible, for
they included opportunities for experiences of bass-
fishing.
June 25th. Newport has not yet put on its festive
attire. It is not the season, and we ought not to be
here. Nevertheless it is. still so pleasant, and so re
spectably dull, that one enjoys it amazingly. After
breakfast we walked down to the seashore and sat
gazing on vacancy, and on three yellow ladies collect
ing clams. Keturning thence in a very hot sun, ran to
earth in the hotel where, presently, there were many
visitors; and how kind and anxious to please they
were ! Mr. Fearing drove up later on the top of a drag,
and whirled us away to a charming fishing-box on the
shore, in order to judge for ourselves what bass-fishing
was like. It was a very pretty drive, and Mr. Fearing
handled his " four " as if he were bent on joining the
Coaching Club not indiscreetly, as the horses were
not accustomed to going together, but with satisfactory
decision and we all were landed without mishap by
the side of the road, close to one of the best-organised
sporting-boxes I have ever se'en, built entirely for the
comfort and delectation of Mr. Fearing and two or
three friends who own the bass-fishing stands, at the
end of one of which a gentleman was then busily
Bass-Fishing. 131
engaged in his pastime, for the sea conies rolling up
upon the rocks within some forty or fifty yards of the
sward of the green meadows on which the house is
placed. From it projects into the breakers a platform
supported on iron pillars, at the end of which there is
an enlargement of the structure to enable the fisher
man and his attendants to stand at their ease the one
in hurling the bait and the other in preparing it.
And first, as a proof that the labour is not futile, there
was exhibited a terrible-headed monster with great
scales, which had been caught that morning by Mr.
Whipple a bass of 57 Ibs. weight, of which I think
the skull and jaws and gills must have weighed a third.
The fishing is not, as I found, to be done at once, but
needs a little practice. The art of casting consists in
the double operation of jerking the bait from the top
of a stiff rod, and checking the run of the line without
permitting it to overrun, which it is very apt to do in
an inexperienced hand, by a pressure of the thumb on
the reel, just sufficient to let the weight of the bait carry
out the hook to the farthest stretch of the jerk. The
rod, not more than eight or nine feet long, a work of
great art, and costly, is furnished with a reel, also very
expensive, containing a couple of hundred yards of
prepared line. At the end is a large single hook,
sometimes secured to a piece of piano-wire, as the
" blue fish " will cut through the strongest cord or
gut. To this is fixed a junk of fat oily fish, of which
supplies are kept in a basket close at hand, to be cut
up for ever and ever by the attendant, and ever and
K 2
132 Hesperothen.
anon pieces are chucked into the sea, and being pf
a very unctuous nature, the oil rising to the top, floats
away on the surface of the water, and attracts the bass
within measurable distance of the platform. Captain
Fearing threw, Mr. Whipple threw, and the gentlemen
at the end of another pier emulated them, and pounds,
perhaps stones, of bait were thrown into the sea, but
the bass, which are capricious, like most fish, were not
to be caught ; and so after a time we returned to the
cottage.
I was, unfortunately, unable to accept an invitation
from one of the many hospitable gentlemen in New
port, to go out and spend the evening on a desolate
island, where they are said generally to have exceedingly
good sport, in order to get up before sunrise the
following morning and essay my skill, or want of it, in
bass-fishing. Mr. Wright, an enthusiastic sportsman,
availed himself of a like invitation with great pleasure
and with many anticipations of delight, but on Monday
morning he returned weather-beaten back, and boot
less and bass-less home, although he assured me he
enjoyed himself very much, and had very agreeable
company out at sea on the rock.
The following day (June 26th) was cloudy and cool,
and all that was of rank and fashion in Newport went
to All Souls Church. There are many churches in
Newport, and in the height of the season, each is, I am
told, well filled on Sundays. And wonderful it is that
there is neither dissension nor controversy among the
congregations. They mingle together coming and
Victories of A merican Horses. 133
going, affording to me, who have been accustomed at
times to observe the manners and customs of my
country men and women on like occasions in Ireland
and elsewhere, ground for wonder, not unintermingled
with an ardent desire that we, nearer home, could learn
the secret of this moderation.
Mr. Bridgman, our fellow-passenger in the " Gallia,"
is enjoying his villeggiatura with his wife and family in
a pretty little cottage. We were very much pleased
indeed to renew our acquaintance with him, although
there was no scope for the display of his fine talents
as a salad-maker. It was not foggy enough for the
ladies, who delight in a thick and moist brume from
the Banks, and who sit at the open windows when it
comes on for the sake of their complexions, as it is
esteemed a sovereign cosmetic beyond Maydew or
Kalydor. Whether it be rightly credited with these
virtues or not, I can answer for the presence of many
fair ladies in church, and on their way to and fro in
the streets. We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Keene, who
reside in one of the best villas of the many charming
dwellings in Newport.
The victories of the American horses in France and
England created an enthusiasm in the States almost as
intense as though they had been won by the national
fleets or armies. From one end of the Union to the
other the news was flashed the same day, and we saw the
names of the conquerors in large letters in every news
paper. Unfortunately there came at the same time
reports of foul play to American competitors at the
134 Hesperothen.
hands of some English roughs, and there was a good
deal of heat caused by the objections taken to the
entry of the " Cornell Crew " at Henley. These inter
national contests should be very carefully conducted
and judiciously worked, or they will do more harm
than good, if indeed they do any good at all. The
injurious insinuations respecting the age of Foxhall
could but excite indignation in the minds of honourable
men against whom they were directed.
There is a State House in the town, and there is
also a mansion occupied by Commodore Perry, but
the most useful inhabitant of the place appears to
have been one Abraham Touro, a Jew, who gave his
name to the park, a cemetery, a synagogue, and a
street. Altogether there is rather an old-world air
and look in the town ; but one must go along the
Avenues to have an idea of the charms which lead so
many of the principal families of the Eastern States
to make the place a resort when they are not enjoy
ing the delights of travel in Europe, or that blissful
existence which endears Paris to our Transatlantic
relatives. Bellevue Avenue is bordered by a number
of very sprightly dwellings, of every order and dis
order of architecture, and rejoicing in all the extra
ordinary richness and elaboration of American work
manship in wood, each standing in a little park of its
own, generally rich with trees, shrubs, and an orna
mental garden. Several of these interiors, as we
had reason to know, were furnished in the very best
taste, and filled with objects of art, excellent examples
Newport A venues. 135
of good masters, principally foreign, and articles
imported from all the corners of the globe. Of
an afternoon the ladies might be seen driving, in
very well turned-out carriages, to some rendezvous
where lawn-tennis or a picnic awaited them ; and
altogether, even at this time of year, Newport
presented a picture of great refinement and comfort,
which enable the visitor to understand how attractive
it must be in the height of the season, and why it is
Americans are so fond of life in Ehode Island.
I am not in a position to throw the smallest doubt
upon the statement that the mass of stones in the
form of a tower, ivy and moss covered, and evidently
the work of human hands, was not built by the hardy
Norsemen hundreds of years before the arrival of
Columbus. There are, moreover, people who declare
that the erection is due to a British governor of the
colony, when it was more prosperous as a commercial
resort, though not so fashionable as it is at present.
But American antiquaries take a great pleasure in
propping up the proofs which have been adduced of
Scandinavian enterprise and discovery on the con
tinent, many centuries before Yespuccius, Columbus, and
the English navigators lived.
We dined on the evening of the 27th at the house
of Mr. Shattock, a gentleman of New York, who had
assembled a party of very pleasant people to meet the
Duke, and kindly hastened his dinner-hour to suit
our convenience, as we were obliged to go on board
the Fall Kiver boat, which called at 9.30 P.M. to take
136 Hesperothen.
up passengers for the Empire City. There was some
difficulty about getting cabins or state rooms as they
are called, but " Uncle Sam," who came from New
York to consort with us quietly, applied himself
diligently to telegraph wires, telephones, and the like,
and when the great steamer came alongside the wharf
our dormitories were ready. The night was calm and
fine. There was an excellent band, quite worthy of
being called an orchestra, on board, which played to
the delight of a large audience till it was bed-time.
As a " sight " for a foreigner, nothing could be more
striking than the vast saloon, brilliantly illuminated,
with hundreds of people on sofas, chairs, and benches,
reading or conversing in the intervals of the music,
and presenting infinite varieties of type and class, yet
all so orderly and well-behaved; and if you moved
quietly through the crowd, your ear caught many
strange languages interpolating the American speech
German, French, Polish, Eussian, Italian, and, per
haps the natives would say, British. There is some
care observed in the locking up of cabins, and I believe
there are detectives and police on board the boats;
but it is said they do not look after the morals of the
passengers, and concern themselves only with vested
interests in portable property. There was no sea on,
and the only motion was caused by the beating of the
paddles and the throbbing of the engine, and early in
the morning of the next day we were at our quarters
in our comfortable hotel in the Fifth Avenue.
June 29th. And yet more excursions. Bound by
Return to New York. 137
a long-standing engagement, a small detachment of our
party set out this evening to visit Mr. Barlow at his
country place, Long Island, which travellers, perhaps,
have not much occasion to see. The Mayor of New York
(Mr. Grace) and Mr. O'Gorman were on the steamer
which took the Duke, Mr. S. Ward, Mr. Hurlbut, and
our host down the Sound, and were introduced to us
by Mr. Barlow. The first-named gentleman I men
tioned in one of the ear/ly pages of this diary in con
nection with the vigorous efforts to purify the civic
atmosphere made by him on his accession to office. I
learn that he has since obtained a large measure of
success, and let me hope corresponding thanks from
his fellow-citizens. Attacks on corrupt influences are
apt to receive lukewarm support from the politicians.
The power of the respectable classes, which hold aloof
from politics, is not large. Mr. Grace had more opposi
tion than help from his own countrymen, who have
been long nearly omnipotent in New York, and who
monopolise a large proportion of the civic offices and
employment. Mr. O'Gorman, one of the traversers
with O'Connell in the famous State trials, is one of the
leading lawyers of New York, and is held in much
respect by his fellow-citizens. The " old Country " is
still dear to him, but I seemed to gather from his
remarks that he shared in the distrust which American
lawyers generally expressed respecting the principle of
the Land Bill then under discussion as far as inter
ference with the law of contract "the very foun
dation of social life " was involved. Glen Cove is
138 Hesperothen.
a beautiful place, standing high above the level of
the sea, and commanding charming views of the
sound and of the opposite shore. It is surrounded
by trees, ornamented by woodland and fine natural
groves, broken up by ravines, through which trickle
streams of water. The mansion is furnished with
every comfort and luxury, and we had a garden to
saunter about in the morning, and a genial hostess to
talk to, and her fair daughter to sing for us, so that
it would have pleased us well to have made a longer
sojourn at Glen Cove. Here we passed two very
peaceful days, part of Wednesday and Thursday, and
in a pleasant drive with our host in the early morn
ing had some slight outlook on umbrageous Long
Island. "0! si angulus iste ! " It is 115 miles long
and 14 miles broad, and quite big enough for me !
And there be deer in the woods and trout in the rivers,
and fish in all the creeks, and game in the wooded
lagoons, and forest, lake, and civilised life, and many
things to please the eye ; and then the comet was so
good as to display his glories and his tail before
Glen Cove. But our time of departure from the States
was drawing near, and there were still things to be
done in New York, and many engagements to be kept,
ere we started on our homeward journey on July 2nd ;
and at 12.35 on the 30th June the Duke and I took
the " cars " at a rural station, and reached New York
at 2.35, in time for a run through Tiffany's and some
little shopping and visiting. There was a dinner
arranged by "Uncle Sam" at "Sutherland's" in
Our Last Day in America. 139
honour of the famous city restaurant. The house is
one of a type which has, I believe, disappeared in the
" City," where once flourished famous establishments
such as Williams' Beef Shop in the Old Bailey, Dolly's
in Paternoster Eow, the Billingsgate Fish Ordinary,
Jacquet's, &c., like it in character. Great New Yorkers
do not disdain to cross the threshold, within which
they find admirable fare and excellent wines the
national delights of clam chowder, clam soup, soft-
shell crabs, and many other Transatlantic delicacies at
the far end of Broadway, still holding its own against
the fashionable restaurants. Of the party who dined
there with Chancellor Kobertson and others in 1861,
only " Uncle Sam," Mr. S. Barlow, and I survive ; but
the host, a granitic sort of man, with a kindly Scottish
heart warming the case inside, seems capable of
presiding over his feasts for another generation.
July 1st. It was difficult to realise the idea that
this was our last day in America, but the truth was
forced on us by the practical duties of getting the
baggage ready and settling up generally, ending with
a dinner at the Turf Club, where we met Mr. Keene, of
Foxhall fame, who had also entertained us at New
port, Mr. Jerome, Mr. Stuart, Mr. Travers, and other
fathers of the New York sporting world, which seems
very like our own, and had to drink madeira of all but
fabulous antiquity and excellence.
140 Hesperothen.
CHAPTEK YII.
BETURN TO EUROPE.
The " City of Berlin "The Inman Line The Service at Roche's
Point Queenstown Discomforts A sorry Welcome Home.
July 2nd* Up at 5.30. The Duke, Lady Green,
Sir Henry, Mr. Wright, Edward, all engaged in the
transport department, with Mr. Trowbridge in obser
vation; incessant activity. The Queen Anne coach
was in readiness at 7.30, and in half an hour more we
were discharged at the Inman wharf. There was
a great flotilla five large steamers leaving at the
same period for Liverpool, and there was the usual
throng at the landing-places of friends to bid " good
bye " to those who were about to cross the Atlantic.
The steamer we had selected belonged to the Inman
line, and whatever there may have been wanting to
the eye on board, compared to the trimness and paint
of the Cunard steamers, there was nothing to regret
* The day of our departure from the United States, after the visit
of which I have heeu giving the details, was the date of a great crime,
of which we were then ignorant. About the very time that we were
on our way to the wharf to embark on board the " City of Berlin" the
murderer of the President was accomplishing his purpose. But with
all the means and appliances which exist for the despatch of news,
I believe that the commission of the crime was not known till the
steamer had passed out to sea from the Sand Heads.
The " City of Berlin:' 141
in our accommodation or service. There were so many
passengers that the dining-saloon, illuminated by the
electric light which was also used for the purpose of
lighting the engine-room and the lamps in the
corridors would not contain them all at the same
time, and so there were two messes for dinner. Epergnes
filled with the most beautiful flowers were ranged in
order, and a rampant war-steed composed of white
roses was displayed on the table. I am not about
to give a log-book, or to trespass on the patience of
my readers by an account of such an ordinary event
as a passage home. The second day after we left New
York was the anniversary of Independence, July 4th,
and the day was duly celebrated by the citizens of the
United States, who constituted the large majority of
our fellow-passengers. The " stars and stripes " were
hoisted at the main, and the cabin was draped with
British and American flags. But there was no
speechifying, and the spread-eagle was content with
moderate flights ; a recitation and a song or two, and
the fire of champagne corks, being the only indications
of an extraordinary festivity.
About this time of the year the Atlantic, in the lati
tudes which we traverse, is rather vexed of fogs ; and
if one be disposed to low spirits, I know nothing which
weighs upon him more than the sound of the fog-horn.
But what must it be for the captain, who is perforce
obliged to go at full speed, or as near to it as he
can, with the expectation every moment of some startled
142 Hesperothen.
cry from the bow " Sail right ahead ! " Nor is it quite
out of the running that an iceberg may be taking a
sail across his course. Fortunately we had no expe
riences of the kind ; and as night was falling on the
10th July land was in sight.
The lights of the Fastnet were seen through drifting
haze, and about 10 o'clock at night the " City of
Berlin " steamed through a rising sea, with a strong
beam wind, into the roadstead of Roche's Point,
burned her rockets, and laid-to for the steamer to
take the mails, and those passengers who had decided
to land, on shore.
It was blowing freshly, and rain fell heavily; and
as we looked down from the lighted decks on the
murky water, and made out the tug as she paddled up
to us, rising and falling on the waves, we were seized
with reasonable misgivings as to the propriety of
leaving our ship and taking to such a craft. I am
bound to say that our experience more than amply
justified them.
I am writing these lines with a very faint hope
that any amendment will be introduced, in consequence
of what I say, into the abominable service between the
American vessels off Eoche's Point and Queenstown.
In fine weather and in daylight it is not of much
consequence, perhaps, what discomfort one may be
exposed to in a short passage to the shore; but to
affront women and children with the misery which
must be experienced at night time and in bad
The Service at Roche's Point. 143
weather, in the steamers employed in the service,
is little short of barbarous, if it be not indeed alto
gether so.
After I had got down upon the deck of the little
steamer and surveyed the scene around me, I thought
that it would have been much wiser to have gone on
with my friends to Liverpool ; but I had some engage
ments in Ireland, and so had the experience I was glad
not to share with my fellow-passengers, on whom I
should have liked the old country to have made a
favourable impression. There was the great steamer,
with hundreds of waving hands, and the sound of
friendly voices bidding us "God speed," a blaze of
lights, and almost as steady as the solid earth, as the
horrible little tug puffed away, and, getting from
under her lee at once, encountered the swell. If she
could have ridden over the water below, she certainly
could not escape that which came down from above ;
so that we were all pretty wet and cross and miserable
in the half-hour which elapsed before we reached the
shore. Fortunately, there were not many passengers
who availed themselves of the opportunity; but the
deck of the steamer was crowded by poor people
returning to their native country. Accommodation
for the cabin passengers, except seats on the wet and
sloppy decks, there was none. There was a little
cabin, stuffy and comfortless, and moreover occupied
by a couple of women who had. come out to see friends
by way of a pleasure excursion, and who were suffer
ing the last extremities of sea-sickness. The spray
144 Hesperothen.
broke over the luggage and passengers ; it was in such
circumstances that the custom-house officers began
their search. One of them, opening my bag, which
was unlocked, found a small revolver. It was un
loaded, and there was no ammunition for it ; but,
nevertheless, it was seized, for I was " importing arms
into a proclaimed district without licence." A similar
mishap occurred to a Spanish officer, who was not
quite so easily appeased as I was by the assurance
that the arm would be given up on proper application
to the police. His revolver, he insisted, was part of
his uniform, a necessity of his existence, and the
authorities might as well seize his epaulettes or spurs.
However, my deadly weapon was restored to me some
days afterwards, after a correspondence with the cus
tom-house, and I dare say the Hidalgo was equally
fortunate. These were incidents to denote that we
were in the midst of trouble. There was but a sorry
welcome for us when we landed at Queenstown. Not a
car to be found, that I could see ; but there were a few
porters, and the agent of the hotel at the pier ; and,
commending my luggage to his care, I walked to the
establishment. It surely cannot be quite an unaccus
tomed event for a steamer to arrive at Queenstown at
that time of night ! The last train for Cork had gone ;
and it might have been expected that lighted rooms
and some sort of preparation would have awaited
the travellers ; for every vessel that touches at Queens-
town, coming from America, surely lands a few people
needing rest and refreshment ? A demoralised waiter,
Queens town Discomforts. 145
who appeared to think that such a thing had never
happened in the whole course of his experience, as
the inroad of ten or twelve people asking for supper
and bedrooms, informed us that nothing could be done
until the gentleman who represented the hotel at the
landing-place had arrived ; and so we sat on the stairs
for half an hour, and were then shown into a gaunt
room, dimly lighted by gas. There was nothing
ready. The hungry people, by dint of patience and
perseverance, eventually succeeded about midnight in
obtaining some poor substitute for supper and scrambled
to their beds.
I mention the circumstances in which my fellow-
passengers and I were landed at Queenstown, that
those who are interested in promoting the welfare of
the port, and in making the route through Ireland less
thoroughly objectionable, may take steps to obviate
the great inconvenience to which travellers at present
are certainly exposed.
Next morning I reached Mallow. I was but a few
hours in the "distressful country," but I found that
things had gone from bad to worse while we were in
the States. I heard from my fellow-travellers in the
train that " Boycotting " had attained such a pitch in
the South, that all the relations and conditions of
social life were exposed to peril, if not destruction.
And still, with the usual cheerfulness of Irish land
lords, accustomed, as it were, to these excesses of the
popular will, my informants talked of hunting, fishing,
and shooting ; and I heard full accounts of the state of
VOL. n. L
1 46 Hesperothen .
the rivers, and of the take of fish which had made some
of them happy. The County Cork, indeed, had nearly
a parallel in the " wilcUWest." But what a contrast
between the state of public feeling, in respect to the
outrages which were perpetrated in each, in the country
we had left, and that to which I had returned ! In
the United States there was no attempt to justify the
men who were guilty of such deeds. In Ireland it
was impossible to obtain evidence or to convict the
offenders. I am not going to close this narrative of
our little excursion with a political disquisition, indeed
I have not the materials for forming any opinion re
specting the breadth and depth of what may be called
the Irish national movement in the "United States;
but there seems to be a general vague impression in
America that as the British Government was not very
wise and equitable in its dealings with the people of
the thirteen colonies in the reign of King George, it
is, somehow or other, at the present moment, treating
with harshness and injustice the whole of the Irish
race in Ireland. It is impossible not to recognise the
fact that the head, perhaps the heart, and certainly
the purse of this development of Irish discontent are in
the United States. The arms, the body, and the legs
are in Ireland. During the whole time of our visit,
although we visited towns where eminent orators were
lecturing upon Irish subjects, and where representa
tives of the League were in session, there was not a
trace brought home to us of the strong sympathy which
undoubtedly exists in many American cities with the
The Irish in America and in Ireland. 147
movement in Ireland. There were accounts of the
meetings in the newspapers, and now and then a few
leading articles on the subject ; but we might have
concluded, from what we saw and heard generally,
that the Irish question was of far less importance to
the American people than the religious views of Colonel
Ingersoll, or the discussions between the railway com
panies respecting their fares. The recital of wrongs,
most of which have been long ago redressed, still
reaches the ear and touches the heart of the American
public, and if the Irish population had not in many
ways provoked or excited the antagonism of the native
Americans in the towns, and of the Teutonic element
which exercises such a powerful influence in the
country, there would be far greater sympathy for the
supposed oppression of the Sister Island by England.
The fact that emigrants come from Europe is accepted
as a proof that the countries which they leave are ill-
governed ; and Americans, in dealing with the emigra
tion question, are apt to forget the existence and nature
of the forces which induced their own ancestors to seek
homes in the New World.
The New York Times declared in an article last
June, that there is no essential difference between the
two divisions of the Irish in America and of the Irish
in Ireland. The voyage across the Atlantic works no
transformation in Pat, and he is still as much an
Irishman after his plunge into an alien civilisation
and taking out his papers as when he stood on the old
sod in Meath or Tipperary. " He cares no more for
L 2
148 Hesperothen.
the American eagle than for an owl ; but a sprig of
shamrock stirs him to ecstasy. The name of Washing
ton has no meaning for his ear ; but that of St. Patrick
is a living and potent reality." That statement, how
ever, must be taken with qualification. There are
to-day 90,000 acres of land in Minnesota as thoroughly
Irish as if they were planted in the centre of Con-
naught. There are Pats and Pats. Many of the
most wealthy and prosperous merchants, bankers, and
landowners whom we met in the West were not merely
of Irish extraction, but born Irishmen, and the extra
ordinary spectacle of Irish millionaires who knew how
to keep their money, and to add to it, too, may be seen
in San Francisco and elsewhere in the West. Many,
less fortunate, have high positions either in the army, or
as politicians, or in the estimation of all that is great
.and good in America such as Mr. O'Conor men who
have held aloof from politics, and who could not be
tempted, even by the Presidentship, to enter the arena
of party strife. One convicted rebel of 1840 now
occupies a leading place at the American bar. I heard
him denounce the Land Bill in terms he might have
used in denouncing the atrocities of the Saxon in his
hot days when O'Connell was king. The influence
which has been acquired in many parts of the Union
by the Irish immigration and by the descendants of
immigrants has naturally excited at various times the
opposition and indignation of the American born, and it
has always been more or less opposed by the Teutons
of different nationalities who occupy such a powerful
Irish Influence in the United States. 149
position in all the great States of the West. But 4t the
Native Party " is now either dead or sleeping. A very
distinguished officer and politician said to me that he had
at one time been a most eager and ardent adherent of
the policy of the Native American Party, hut that when
he saw how earnestly and devotedly the Irish had come
forward in defence of the Union, how brilliantly they had
fought, and how recklessly they had sacrificed their lives,
in 1861, he felt constrained to abandon his principles,
and to admit their free right to all the privileges of
American citizenship. I could not, however, but re
collect that General Eichard Taylor, in his most
amusing, able, and graphic work on that same war,
from the Confederate side of the question, bore the
strongest testimony to the services of the Irish in the
army which fought under the banner of the Slave
States. In New York and in San Francisco the Irish
element has exercised almost supreme control in muni
cipal matters, and it may be said, without offence I
hope, that, whether it be owing to the opposition they
have encountered or to a radical deficiency which may
be Irish rather than Celtic, their management has
not conduced to the comfort of the cities or to the
pecuniary purity of the Executive. In San Francisco
there is a strong anti-Irish press and much anti-
Irish feeling. The ' Argonaut ' repudiates the thraldom
of the Irish associations and factions in the Far West
as strenuously as the ( Times ' and ' Tribune ' do in the
East. But notwithstanding all that may be written
and done, it is impossible to resist the influence of
150 Hesperothen.
numbers under a system of suffrage so large as that
which exists in the greater number of the American
States. It was curious to read in a Californian paper
an appeal to England to suppress Irish agitation.
" We confidently believe," says the Argonaut, " that
the wisdom of its public men, the healthful condition
of its public opinion, and the strength of its military
power will be sufficient to crush out the Land League
movement, which is but incipient rebellion. That
England will deal justly, firmly, and successfully with
this effort of united ecclesiasticism and Communism is
the earnest wish of every intelligent and independent
mind that believes in free government, the guarantees
of property, the rights, and the personal liberty of man."
However, there are American parties, if not statesmen,
whose wishes are by no means directed to such a con
summation, and we must take note of the fact.
Prospects. 1 5 1
CHAPTEK YIII.
SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.
Education Free Schools Influence of Money in Politics Corrup
tion in Public Life Crime on the Western Borders The Great
Rebellion Anniversaries Great courtesy to strangers Manners
and Customs.
" Westward the course of Empire takes its way ;
The four first acts already past,
A fifth shall close the drama with the day,
Time's noblest offspring is the last."
THE "tar-water Bishop of Cloyne" would have been
exceedingly astonished could he have seen the first
line of his prophecy or averment made to do duty as a
motto to Mr. Bancroft's History of the United States ;
but surely if the prophecy be not realised, it will be
the fault of the agencies engaged in working it out
never in the history of mankind, as we know it, have
such advantages been enjoyed by any nation as have
been, and are, the appanage of the Americans of
European origin in the New World. They have
leaped into the possession of their heritage full armed,
like Minerva from the brain of Jove. For them have
all the champions of human rights died or conquered,
and the protagonists of human struggles for liberty
and light fought. For them Science has trimmed her
152 Hesperothen.
lamp for them martyrs have died for them Europe
and Asia have been in toil and travail for countless
generations, and they have been guided across the
sea to a grand continent where it would seem as if
Nature had been engaged for myriads of ages to pro
vide for their happiness and grandeur all climes and
all products are theirs the bounteous plain, the ore-
filled mountain, the treasures of the deep, the heaven-
made ways by lake and river, and it would be a
despair for all mankind if they misuse their glorious
inheritance, and if all the nations of the world see
that the pillar of fire in the west was but an ignis
fatuus dancing before their aching eyes in a Serbonian
bog of creeds and 'isms, of factions and faiths, all
struggling towards the gate of the Temple of Mam
mon. "Philosophers," in all the doubts and fears
which the condition of the Kepublic inspires at times,
cling with confidence to the palladium which is, they
think, to be found in the system of education based
on the free schools of the States. If there were not a
distinction between knowledge and morality, they
would be justified ; but the Evil One tempted us to
eat of the fruit of the tree which brought sin into the
world, and if Americans are to be trusted as authorities,
the result of the largest and most liberal system of
education ever devised is not as happy in practice as
it ought to be according to theory.
As the central Government extended its sway over
the Territories there was a uniform system, when as
signing land for public objects to railway companies, of
Education Free Schools. 153
retaining for the School Fund a portion of the land in
each Territory, as it was settled and admitted as such,
under the control of the central Government. In the
States Constitutions creating Sovereign States, there
are provisions inserted, varying very little in language
and not at all in spirit, which render it compulsory
on the Legislature of each State to maintain public
schools free to all the children of the people residing
within its borders. Another principle, of universal
application, provided that all schools under public
control should be free from sectarian or denominational
teaching, in the schools or in the books used for edu
cational purposes. "With such safeguards for the ex
tension of education, it is depressing to find that, in
certain districts at all events, crime and immorality
prevail in the United States as extensively as in the
benighted kingdoms of the Continent of Europe. But
the most serious consideration in connection with the
system of common schools in America, is the fact that
serious doubts are intruding themselves respecting the
success of it. In a recent official report it was stated
that whereas the children who ought to go to school
numbered about fourteen and a half millions, the
average attendance was not more than five millions.
But, assuming that all the children went to school,
there are people who declare that the education given
under the National system is by no means satisfactory.
Mr. E. Gr. White affirms that the system is a failure ;
and high authorities assert that " any comparison be
tween the results obtained in the public schools of
1 54 Hesperothen.
New York, Cincinnati, and Boston, with those of such
public grammar schools of England, as Bedford, Man
chester, and the City of London, is simply ridiculous."
The teachers are continually shifting, and when the
teachers, as they do in this land of liberty, go away,
the schools are deserted, the constant services of a staff
cannot be retained unless there is very considerable
increase in the rate of payment now made to the male
and female teachers. None of these in any State have,
I think, more than about 9 per month. Mr. "White
says that " the mass of the pupils of the public schools
are unable to read intelligently, to spell correctly, to
write legibly, to describe the geography of their own
country, or do anything that reasonably well educated
children do with ease ; and they cannot write a simple
letter, they cannot do readily a simple sum in practical
arithmetic, they cannot tell the meaning of any but
the commonest of words they read and spell so ill.
They can give rules glibly, they can recite from
memory, they have some dry knowledge of the various
ologies and osophies, they can, some of them, read a
little French or German with very bad accent ; but, as
to all real education, they are as helpless and as
barren as if they had never crossed the threshold of a
schoolhouse." It is from American writers that these
accusations against the common school system are to
be gleaned. Some statisticians say that crime and
pauperism are increasing far more rapidly than popu
lation. The charge on the State for punishing criminals
and keeping paupers last year was $20,000,000, or
Defects in School System. 155
4,000,000 ; but it is too much to attribute crime and
pauperism to the defects of the schools. It might
with more reason be argued that the teaching of the
people in the schools tends to develop the looseness
and eccentricity of thought, where there is no religious
teaching, which are exemplified in the uprising of ex
traordinary sects and strange philosophies ; for America
is the land of spiritualists, mesmerism, soothsaying,
and mystical congregations. Mr. Hepworth Dixon
may not be a perfectly unimpeachable authority on
the subject of the number of spiritualists in America ;
but there can be no question they are to be counted by
millions. It is averred that believers in spirits generally
believe in " special affinities which imply a spiritual
relation of the sexes higher and holier than that of
marriage." It is not wonderful then that there should
be also a very large number of divorces, especially
in the New England States. Mr. Nutting says that
" in the history of nations there has never but thrice
occurred such a breaking up of the family tie as is
now taking place, especially in Rhode Island and Con
necticut, among the people of New England blood."
Mormonism, although of American origin and early
growth, has been mainly successful by the constant
importation of ignorant peasants from Europe.
There is a want of reverence on the part of children
towards their parents which is very striking. Ameri
cans who have admitted and deplored this have sought
to account for it by the school system, wherein the
156 Hesperothen.
State usurps the place of the parent, and teaches the
young idea to mock at any authority but that of the
schoolmaster. It would be lamentable to have to
admit that free education is associated with the
weakening of parental influence. Theoretically, there
is nothing in the American system to prevent the
teaching of religious and moral duties by parents at
home ; but it would seem as if very little of that kind
of instruction was given by the busy fathers and
anxious mothers of the Republic, and that when the
day's work is done at school, and some time given to
the preparation of the studies for the day to follow,
there is no further teaching.
I do not think the rule " By their fruits shall ye
know them " can be applied to the public schools, in
connection with the prevalence of crime, immorality,
unbelief, or eccentric religion. But it is certain the
system has not by any means secured that high level
of general education, or what education is supposed to
bring with it, which its friends claim for it in the
States. There is reason to believe that the standard
of morality has not been uniformly high in the political
world, and that in the public intelligence the judiciary
does not aspire to an absolute immunity from sus
picion. Even in the old settled States, legislators from
time to time may be found, who, seated among the
good and wise, excite admiration akin to that which is
aroused by the spectacle of a fly in amber. It has
been observed by travellers that whatever affection
Influence of Money in Politics. 157
may exist in families, it does not attain that keen
sensibility and lasting power which is found in French
domestic life.
When American newspapers of the greatest influence
and circulation write invectives against the corruption
which prevails in places high and low, when writers
of great intelligence and known character contribute
similar articles to periodicals which possess the highest
position in the literary world of America, a stranger
may be permitted perhaps to say a few words respect
ing the impression produced upon his mind by what
he heard and read on the subject when he was in the
country, without it being alleged that he attemps to
assail the principles of free government, or to make
invidious charges or wholesale accusations against a
nation. I know too well the force with which Ame
ricans could retort if they were so minded, and how
they could point to the reports of election judges
which set forth the prevalence of extensive bribery,
led to the suspension of writs, and will perhaps end in
the disfranchisement of some ancient and populous
boroughs and constituencies in England, and to the
speeches of Sir Henry James in Parliament, to cast
any stone out of my glass house on that score ; but I
do not think it can be established that persons in a
position at all analogous to that of the members of
a State Legislature have been purchased wholesale in
England, Ireland or Scotland, or that even a complete
Borough Corporation had been bought up. Now,
nothing was more common in the Far West than to
158 Hesperothen.
hear it stated openly that Senator So-and-so had
bought his place, and that Mr. So-and-so had pur
chased a State Legislative body in order to " get
through " some railway or other scheme. That was
accepted in fact as a matter of course, and not con
tradicted or questioned by any one. We heard from
time to time of the sums which So-and-so would
expend to buy his senatorship, and of the money
actually paid to secure the passage of a line from the
legislature of and the like, whilst stories relating
to the purchase of judges were common in the con
versation of the hotels and cars.
I do not aver that these stories were true. I only
know that they passed current and were not challenged
by those who were around us. " Thoughtful persons,"
who exist in the "United States as well as in the
vicinity of Pall Mall clubs, lament, deplore and hate the
evils of growing corruption with all the fervour of
honest and powerless natures. The mechanism is
scarcely concealed. It stands before the world with less
attempt at disguise than the gallows in the gaol. Mr.
Parton, in the ' North American Review J of this July,
writing on the power of 'public plunder, says: "At
present, in the ninety-fifth year of the Constitution,
we are face to face with a state of politics of extreme
simplicity, of which money is the motive, the means and
the end. What was the last Presidential election but a
contest of purses ? The longest purse carried the day,
and it carried the day because it was the longest.
Some innocent readers perhaps have wondered why the
Political " Bosses" 159
famous orators who swayed vast multitudes day after
day and night after night, have not been recognised in
the distribution of office. They were paid in cash from
ten dollars a night to a thousand dollars a week." And
then he goes on to describe the business in detail, and
to show what this power is. He says : " There is a
boss in the city of New York who will take a contract
for putting a gentleman into Congress. Pay him so
much and you may go to sleep, wake up and find your
self member elect. A boss is a man who can get to
the polls on election days masses of voters who care
little or nothing for the issues of the campaign and
know of them still less. They operate upon the
strangers in the land who are unable to use its
language and are unacquainted with its politics."
Mr. Parton describes with humour one of these
"bosses," an improvement on the pugilists and cor
morant thieves of a remote period. " The Emerald Isle
gave him birth ; the streets of New York, education.
To see the brawny, good-tempered Irishman walking
abroad in his district when politics are active is to get
an idea of how the chief of a clan strode his native
heath when a marauding expedition was on foot. He
lives in a handsome house, and has more property than
any man has ever been able to get by legitimate service
to the United States. He treats his dependants and
retainers nobly, but as the agent and organiser of
spoliation he is a prey to every minor scoundrel, for
at certain seasons he dare not say no to any living
creature. And yet it requires tact, self-possession
160 Hesperothen.
and resource to move about among needy people with
a pocket full of money, an embodied " yes," and have
some of it left after the election. The strikers, as
they are called, go for solid cash now instead of target
companies and clambakes for which the candidates
paid the bills." " Money, money," exclaims Mr. Parton,
" everywhere in politics, in prodigal abundance, money,
except where it could secure and reward good service
for the public, hecatombs for the wolves, precarious
bones for the watchdogs." The details in the article
are precise, and if they are to be trusted it may be
doubted whether the claims of the United States to
possess a cheap government can be maintained, for it
is not cheap to pay responsible executive officers a
precarious pittance per annum if now and then it costs
a million dollars to change them. Mr. Secretary Elaine
has thrice declared that the election in October 1880
in the State of Maine, a model New England State,
was carried by money. His opponents declared that
he and his party were as bad, and that they too
flooded the towns with money. What renders the
situation more dangerous is the fact that the men who
provide the money for running these enormously ex
pensive political combinations are either seekers after,
or holders of, office, and the inference is that they seek
to control Government, or, as Mr. Parton puts it, that
" the Government is coming to be rather an appendage
to a circle of wealthy operators than a restraint upon
them." That is indeed a serious proposition, and the
result of observation goes to support the idea that it
Corruption in Public Life. 161
is valid. The small man is in office, but the big man,
his master, is outside. The mischief is brought promi
nently forward in connection with the sale of public
lands in the North- West, which have been claimed as
the heritage of the people, and indeed of all the
nations of the world. The government land attracted
the hardy labour of all countries, covering the western
west with thriving towns and populous counties. But
now the prairies are skinned by rich men, by " land-
grabbers," people who buy up tracts of twenty thousand
or thirty thousand acres wherever they can lay their
hands upon them, evading the law and filling the
western world with roving labourers who work on
these prodigious farms in summer and starve in winter.
This is, we are told, the result of " government by
lobby."
Occasionally there is an exceeding great and bitter
cry over all this from the depths of the body politic.
Some great paper in a moment of deep mental agony
Dublishes an article like that, to which I have called
attention, by Mr. Parton ; occasionally some preacher,
nobly daring, thinks it necessary to direct attention,
from his pulpit, to the progress of corruption. Dr.
Talmage delivered a very remarkable discourse whilst
I was in America on the text from Job. xv. 34 : " Fire
shall consume the tabernacles of bribery." Although
I do not profess exactly to understand to what par
ticular sect he belongs, he is one of the leaders of
religious thought, dividing with Beecher and others
the popular favour in the Empire City. The State
VOL. II. M
1 62 Hesperothen.
buildings at Albany ought to be heavily insured if the
reverend gentleman's vaticinations are right. It was
an American discourse. I cannot give the whole
oration. The people of the Brooklyn Tabernacle were
presented with a muster-roll of the people who had
distinguished themselves amongst the great ones of
the world. Cobden, Brougham, O'Connell and Rowland
Hill were placed in juxtaposition as leaders on our
side of the water. Of course it was impossible to resist
the allusion to Francis Bacon and to Macclesfield ; but
it was scarcely correct to say that the Lord Chancellor
Whiteberry I presume a misprint for Westbury
"perished," nor do I quite understand what the preacher
meant by the awful tragedy of the Credit Mobilier.
Washington, Ben Butler, and John McClean were
linked together for the benefit of Americans. They
were, Dr. Talmage declared, great politicians, but "out
of politics there has come one monstrous sin, potent
and pestiferous, its two hands rotten with leprosy, its
right hand deep in its breeches pocket. This is bribery."
Dr. Talmage called upon the American people to judge
the crime. " Under the temptation of this sin," he
exclaimed, "Benedict Arnold sold the fort in the
Highlands for thirty-one thousand three hundred and
seventy-five dollars ; Gorgy betrayed Hungary, Ahito-
phel forsook David, Judas killed Christ. I think," he
says, " when I see the strong men who have gone
down, of the Bed Dragon in Revelation, having seven
heads and ten horns, and seven crowns upon its head,
drawing the third part of the stars of heaven after it."
A Sermon on Bribery. 163
And therefore lie proceeds to preach against bribery.
He thought it was the right time, " because the Legis
lature in New York is busy in investigating charges
of bribery. The whole country woke up in holy horror
at the charge that two thousand dollars had been
offered to influence a vote in the Legislature, as if
this was something new ; as though in one State nine
hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars had not
been paid a legislator of the State Government by a
railway company to get its charter and secure a dedi
cation of public lands ; as though three-quarters of
the legislators of the United States had not, through
bribery, gone into putrefaction whose stench reached
heaven. After a few weeks' hunting the squirrel has
stolen the hickory nut. Gentlemen in New York hunt
out wrong by day and play poker and old sledge at
night at Delavan House. It was like the country
which had spent six millions of dollars in lawsuits
about William Tweed going suddenly into hysterics
when it found out that he had^stolen a box of steel pens.
California is submerged in the grip of a great monopoly ;
in Kansas United States senators had been involved
in charges of bribery ; in Connecticut an election to
Congress was bought as men might buy a box of straw
berries. Last year they were convicted of attempting
bribery in Pennsylvania, but the Court of Pardons
liberated them with the exception of two judges, who
were told that they would be cut off from political
preferment for their obstinacy. A Pennsylvania United
States senator used to put a price on legislators just
M 2
164 Hesperothen.
as a Kentuckian puts a price on his horse." But it was
not legislators alone that Dr. Talmage attacked. He
declared that the railways, the common carriers of the
country, were tainted by a favouritism which was, in
fact, the result of bribery. One company made rebates
in its fares to some favoured corporation, as in the case
of a petroleum company, which was enabled to control
the price of that light all over the world in consequence
of a virtual monopoly that was given to it by arrange
ment with the railway. In the same way merchandise
in grain, provisions, and cattle are placed in the hands
of a few firms. " How much," asks Dr. Talmage, " did it
cost the Elevated Kailroad to keep the fare from drop
ping to five cents from ten cents ? I have been told,"
said he, " three hundred thousand dollars," which is
60,OOOZ. " Very seldom does a bill pass through any of
our Legislatures if there be no money in it. Some
times the bribery is in bank bills, sometimes in railroad
passes, sometimes in political preferment, sometimes
by the monopolies given to the legislators, what are
called points, a corner, a flier, a cover, washing the
street, salting down, ten up ! If you want to know
what these are, ask the bribed members at Albany and
Harrisburg." Then he goes on, with some truth, to
declare that the bribery begins far away behind all this ;
that it is really with the money subscribed for election
expenses that the evil begins its course. " From the
big reservoirs of subscribed election expenses the little
rills roll down in ten thousand directions, and by the
time the great gubernatorial, congressional, and presi
Crime on the Western Borders. 165
dential elections are over, the land is drunk with
bribery." Perhaps it is quite as well that it is from
an American orator and from an American writer such
statements and such indictments proceed, rather than
from a stranger like myself; but it is very clear that
the evil which De Tocqueville indicated long ago has
spread rather than diminished, and there is reason to
think that it will do so until the public conscience of
a great people is aroused to a sense of the enormity
of the mischief. But it lies far down towards the base
of the national institutions, and any attempt to extir
pate it will fail until the doctrines of the " Spoils to
the Victors " be rejected from the political catechism,
and the interests of party made the means and not
the end of political life.
The letters which appeared in the Morning Post,
written under the influence of the surprise and anger
I felt at the extent and impunity of crimes of violence
and the state of feeling, or want of it, respecting them
in the West, were badly received in America, and
were severely handled by a few papers, as I was
informed; I expected that the mention of the sub
ject would not prove agreeable, though I guarded
myself most sedulously from a single offensive word
nay, went out of my way to palliate the offences
against life and living, and to excuse the people
who allowed them, whilst I most carefully drew the
line a broad one between these border ruffians and
the law-abiding, virtuous people of the settled States.
I was not, however, prepared for misrepresenta-
1 66 Hesperothen.
tion. One would have thought that I accused the
kind hosts who had received us our generous enter
tainers in so many cities the courteous, polished
gentlemen who accompanied us of murder and rob
bery, and ascribed to them the brutal murders com
mitted by Canty or the Kid. As I quoted chapter
and verse, and as the papers which vilified me could not
deny the statements, they wrote that I had been im
posed upon by the vivid fancy in other phrase, the
deliberate lying of their brother editors in the "West.
One organ had the effrontery to declare that the Duke
of Sutherland expressed his delight at the kind and
courteous treatment of the ruffians I denounced;
adding, " somebody lied it was not the Duke." No.
It was not indeed ! A friend sent me one of these,
and below an article in which it was said that I might
take my place " beside Basil Hall, Mrs. Trollope, and
Dickens for libelling the people of the United States,"
and that my stories were all inventions, there was a
pregnant commentary as follows : Sunday, July
17th : Daring Train Bobbery ; Bandits Boarding
Chicago, Kock Island, and Pacific Cars ; The Con
ductor and a Passenger Shot Dead, and the Safe in
the Express Car Bobbed ; the Passengers Saved by a
Brakeman."
I hope it will not be imagined that I have any
desire to cast obloquy on the grand efforts, supremely
successful as they have been, to turn the prairie and
the desert to the uses of civilised man and of the
world, and to open up the Western Continent to
Recklessness as to Human Life. 167
humanity and civilisation. I am too sensible of the
courtesy, ready service, and hospitality everywhere ac
corded to the party of English travellers of which I
was one, to write one word which I thought calculated
to give pain or offence to any of our many friends or
to any right-minded American. Maculae solis ! 'Tis a
pity they are there ! In a few years, perhaps, the
memory that such things were will have passed away
like the recollection of some evil dream. But public
sentiment must make itself felt, and above all there
must be some abatement of the maudlin sympathy,
which is virtually on the side of crime, if it be active
in averting punishment.
Crime in America, especially in the Eastern States,
is very much the same as it is in other countries,
but in the far West there is more recklessness in
dealing with human life, which, in spite of the Howard
Society and of humanitarians, I believe to be con
nected with the indulgence extended under State laws
by American judges and juries to criminals who
appear to be deserving of nothing but the strict and
unmitigated application of the rope. " Property " is
safe, for the citizens hunt down with extraordinary
energy marauders whose object is simply plunder.
Ordinary robbers and gangs of burglars are speedily
and summarily suppressed. It is otherwise with those
who assail life and limb. The desperadoes who infest
the "saloons," as they are called, with which every
western settlement is sure to be provided as soon as
the shingle roofs are placed on the earliest upheaval
1 68 Hesperothen.
of deal planks which can be called a dwelling, have
far greater immunity and freedom than burglars or
robbers. Wherever the train stopped for water on
our journey in New Mexico, Western Colorado, or
Eastern California, a rectangular wooden box, with
a verandah, open doors, windows screened by a
muslin curtain, perhaps a flagstaff with the Stars and
Stripes flying, a large signboard, and some high-
sounding name the " Grand Alliance," " Union
League," " El Dorado," " Harmonium," " Arcadia," or
the like was visible, with the usual group of booted
and bearded miners, and their horses hitched up at the
door-posts in front; inside you would be certain to
find men of the same class at a bar, behind which,
known for miles around,. the affable Charlie, Bill, or Bob
was dispensing drinks and mixing cocktails, slings, and
the other drinks, in which the badness of the spirit is
artfully disguised by a stimulant of a more active
character and more pronounced flavour, known as
" bitters," and kept in subjugation by the liberal use
of ice. For even in these burning regions ice is
stored up as the one thing needful. The rudest miner
is accustomed to it; iced drinks are consumed by
classes in America far below the social level of those
who never taste them in this country.
As the train was halting at Colorado Springs the
stewards engaged in an animated discussion respecting
a certain erection of poles and rafters just visible
in an adjacent field. "I tell you dat's it." "I say
tidn't." They were discussing the probability of the
"Murder!" 169
scaffolding being the gallows whereon "Canty, the
Buena Yista murderer," was to be hanged the day
after. On April 29th, last year, Mr. Canty was
standing on the platform in front of Lake-house
with "Johnny the Ham," "Curly Frank," and "Off
Wheeler," when Thomas Perkins appeared in an alley
opposite, endeavouring " to induce ' Dutch Bill ' to go
with him to the office of Justice Casey, who had
deputised him for the purpose." Canty and his com
panions at once ran across and demanded his release.
Before Perkins could answer, Canty fired and missed
him. The second shot wounded Perkins in the arm ;
the latter drew his pistol, but before he could use it
Canty fired ; the ball shattered the constable's hand.
" For God's sake," he exclaimed, " is there no police
man to help me ? " He fell, and Canty, walking close
to his side, coolly sent a bullet through his body. He
was arrested, tried, and convicted. His counsel applied
to the Supreme Court for a supersedeas, but the court,
after solemn argument, refused the application. Then
they applied to the Governor of the State, but Mr.
Pitkin, though "a weak-kneed man," would neither
grant a reprieve nor a commutation to imprisonment
for life. There was, he said, no ground "to. set aside a
verdict of a competent jury and the district judge
reviewed and approved of by the Supreme Court." In
the very last hour a woman came forward, and the
Denver paper gave verbatim et literatim the text of the
document in which . . " with dew regard," she offered
Sheriff Spangler $50,000 (10,OOOZ.) to save the life of
1 70 Hesperothen.
W. H. Canty, her cousin, whose real name was, she said,
N. H. Salisbury. " I entreat you to have him spared
till you have an interview with me." She added that
"Jennings and his brother in Leadville would pay a
still larger sum. You may have ample means for
life," &c. A gentleman of the press, who came into
our train at South Arkansas, was present at the execu
tion. Just before the drop fell, Canty, who had ex
pressed complete confidence in his ultimate liberation
till the day before his execution, spoke for fifteen
minutes, protesting his innocence. Then he exclaimed,
" Good-bye, nothing can save me. I have faith in the
Saviour and a hereafter." The trap was sprung, but
to the horror of every one, the rope broke at the beam.
The murderer's neck, however, was dislocated, and " a
happy relief was experienced " when it was found he
had died a painless death. As he was the nephew of
an eminent stateman it was expected his friends would
take action as to the disposal of his remains, which
were put " in a neat casket at the sheriff's expense."
In the journal there was a woodcut of the murderer.
u Before his likeness could be taken holes were bored
in the door and Canty was lashed to it, and then, when
the door was set upright, the photographer watched a
favourable opportunity when the head and eyes were
quiet and secured the impression " from which the
engraving was made. He was not so fortunate as
Frank Gilbert, who was sentenced to be hanged the
following day for a brutal murder, but respited, " in
order that the proceedings may be reviewed by the
" Done Brown!' 17 1
highest judicial tribunal," by Governor Pitkin at the
last moment, " till July 29," the day on which Kosen-
crantz is now sentenced to be hanged. The sheriff,
Judge Ward, the clerk of the court, and the prose
cuting attorney joined with others in petitions to the
governor on the ground that the Supreme Court judges
had refused a supersedeas in consequence of the defects
and informalities of the record of the proceedings in
the court below. Kosencrantz was respited, and the
public, who had been expecting a double execution on
the 18th of June, were disappointed, although they
were allowed to slake their curiosity by the sight of
the condemned men and by testing the ropes in the
prison enclosure where the scaffold was ready. In the
paper which gave the text of Governor Pitkin's
reprieve there was a heading "Done Brown. AL
Huggins, marshal of Eecene, turns out a bad man.
He shoots and fatally wounds officer Brown of Kokomo."
Phil. Foote, constable of Kokomo, formerly marshal of
Eobinson, and AL Huggins, marshal of Kecene, it seems
had spent the night in visiting the saloons of Kokomo,
and in the early morning began to fire their pistols and
guns off in the street, and continued to do so until
Andy Button, marshal of Kokomo, attempted to arrest
them, but failed, " as he was quickly covered by two
rifles." Mr. Brown, a police officer, asked Huggins to
put up his pistol, and, to encourage him, proceeded to
pocket his own revolver, when Huggins took deliberate
aim with a 38-calibre Colt and shot Brown in the left
breast, just above the heart. Huggins and Foote
1 7 2 Hesperothen.
started for Kecene. The marshal of Kokomo followed
quickly in pursuit, with a large body of men.
Huggins refused to surrender, whereupon the marshal
shot him in the face. As there was a movement to
lynch him, Al. Huggins was sent under strong guard
to Leadville, but Foote escaped. "Brown was not
dead by last accounts, but was not expected to
live long." Then came a long account of another
"Denver tragedy. Charles Stickney murders Mr. T.
Campan and Mrs. H. 0. Devereux in a boarding-house."
Stickney was nephew of ex-Governor Clifford, of Ehode
Island, served as lieutenant, 20th Kegiment, in the war
of 1861-4, graduated at Harvard, became principal of
a school, married a lady whom he sent to London to
study music, and tried mining whilst his wife was
giving music lessons in Denver. There she met Mr.
Campan, one of the best families in Detroit ; Stickney
shot him and killed a woman who was in the room
at the same time. " Public opinion is in favour of
Stickney, and he will probably be reprimanded." The
evening of the day we reached Leadville, " Alderman
Johnnie M'Combe, a leading candidate for lieutenant-
governor and mayor, and last spring before the people
for city treasurer," shot and wounded, probably fatally,
a well-known actor named James M'Donald, because the
latter had taken some children in M'Combe's buggy for
a drive. It is not easy to determine how far Johnnie's
chance of office may be affected by this ebullition, but
the newspapers did not write of it with harshness ; one
gave it a comic character by the heading, " Ex-
Killing " on general Principles? 173
Alderman M'Combe attempts to perforate Jemmy
M'Donald's cranium." In my morning paper of the
same date I find that "James Hogan was foully
murdered by James M'Cue in the open streets of Erie
this afternoon in a quarrel about a handkerchief;"
that Dr. Flemings, a prominent citizen of Portland,
Ashley County, Arkansas, had appeased a quarrel
between a pedlar named Gillmore and a coloured man
very effectually, for, " incensed by a remark made by
the pedlar, the doctor drew a pistol and shot him
dead ; " that " a prominent business man of M'Leans-
boro' had made a sensation on the streets to-day by
hunting up, pistol in hand, one of the gay Lotharios of
Hamilton County;" that "Daniel Keller, deputy
county clerk, was stabbed and killed in the street
of Virginia City by Dennis Hennessy, a kerbstone
broker ; " that " a searching party under Captain
Leper had overhauled Hamilton, Myers and Brown,
the outlaws who shot Sheriff Davis and Collector
Hatter at Poplar Bluff, Mo. ; killed Hamilton, mortally
wounded Myers, and made Brown a prisoner ; " that
" James Hurd shot Jeff Anderson at Alamosa, Col., and
that it was feared the latter would not survive." An
account of the death of " Curly Bill," a notorious
desperado, leader of cowboys and murderer of Marshal
White, who was killed at Caleyville, Arizona, by his
comrade, Jem Wallace, followed. They had a quarrel
(of course, in a saloon). After a few drinks "Curly
Bill " said, " I guess I will kill you on general prin
ciples." Wallace stepped out of the saloon and imme-
1 74 Hesperothen .
diately opened fire, inflicting a mortal wound on his
foe. After a brief hearing Wallace was discharged,
and left for parts unknown. Then it was related
how " Thomas Clarey (* Tommy the Kid '), a Durango
outlaw, was killed by a comrade named Eskridge at
Annego while drunk." A fratricide and three trials for
murder were duly recorded. Another paper gave an
account of South- West Colorado from the lips of a
recent visitor to San Juan County. " Are you going
back to San Juan ? No, I think not ; but it is a
glorious country. The men there are a little rough,
and kill each other on slight provocation ; but a peace
able man who does not swagger and blow is not mo
lested. There is no law, and courts and constables are
unknown." He narrates how Aleck , acting as a
barkeeper, " a noble-hearted, jovial fellow, full of fun,
who looked you square in the eye, owns mines, said
to be worth a million," settled a difficulty ; I am
inclined to think Mr. Charles Klunk rather drew on
the interviewing reporter of the Globe Democrat.
He was, he said, going to see a stockman who lived
about fifty miles from the house where he was
visiting. A farmer said to him " Come and take a
drink with me, and I'll show you the barkeeper who
killed the man you are going to see an hour ago."
The stockman had come into the saloon whilst Aleck
was in the back room, and began to abuse him. Aleck
heard him, opened on the man with a revolver, and
" shot him full of holes. Next day I asked him what
he was going to do about it, and he said he had been
Official Apathy. 175
tried and acquitted, which meant that some of the
leading men had told him that he had done right.
There was no trial about it. When a man kills another
out there in a fight they don't inquire very strictly
into the circumstances, hut make up their minds that
they can't bring the dead man to life by hanging the
killer, so nothing is done about it. But when a man
murders another to rob him, the vigilants turn out
and have no mercy on him. They just fill his skin
with lead and tumble him into a hole like a wolf.
After all, though the bears are plentiful in the
spring, you can kill a deer 100 yards from the house
where you like, the streams are alive with trout, the
vegetables and crops splendid." Mr. Charles Klunk's
resolution not to go back to this Happy Valley seems
founded on sound constitutional principles. What I
wish to point out is the condition in which the Central
Government and State Governments have permitted
many districts of New Mexico, Colorado, and California
to remain. It is plain that the peculiar conditions
under which the sway of the United States has been
extended over the regions of the Far West have
rendered it very difficult to establish the machinery
for protecting life and property and punishing crime ;
but I do not see that the statesmen at Washington or
the legislators at the State capitals are very much
concerned at the reign of terror which prevails on the
borders, or that they seek to impress on their people
any regard for the sacredness of life. In fact, human
life is almost a drug in the market. And I write
1 76 Hesperothen.
fully sensible of the failures of our own and of all
European Governments to repress crime, to prevent
violence, and to ensure security to life and property.
I am aware that Ireland and Poland are to the fore,
and that wife-beating and " running kicks " illustrate
the brutality of Lancashire and other districts that
London has its Alsatias, that every European capital
has foul recesses in which the only laws are those
of crime. All the world is busy preparing shoals of
emigrants for the United States. It is only, however,
when some savage outbreak affrighting the propriety
of a great city arouses indignation and fear that there
is a clamour for measures of repression. I do not
think there is in any dther part of the world, or
that there ever has been in any civilised country,
such shootings as have filled the land to which
I allude with bloodshed. It may be said with
truth that there never have been and that there are
not any similar conditions in the world. But the
absence of any great abiding movement for the cor
rection and suppression of violence and lawlessness
cannot be so readily accounted for or excused. There
appears to be a sort of admiration for these border
ruffians among portions of the American Press and
public. Even a staid paper like the Republican, in
an article headed " South-East Missouri : the Eeign of
Lawlessness about Ended," on the destruction of the
New Madrid gang, writes of one who was sent to the
penitentiary for thirty years "as a living monument
of a bold and brave lot of desperate men who had
Crim inal Notoriety. 177
started out to make money by robbing their fellow-
men. This swift and stern justice speaks well for this
portion of the States, which has had for a long time
more than its full quota of these lawless characters.
Myers and Brown will be hung on the 15th July, and
their execution will be witnessed by thousands of South-
East Missourians." The spectacle of the hanging will
not do much good, if it be like the execution at Colorado
Springs, which was advertised as a sort of picnic or
pleasure excursion. One advertisement ran, "After
the hanging to-morrow drink La Salle beer ; it will cool
your nerves." " Highway robbery here has about run
its course, and the people are determined that law
lessness in those regions shall no longer go unwhipped
of justice." Yery good. But, why not sooner and
long ago ? " Khodes was hung by Judge Lynch when
captured at the killing of young Laforge in New
Madrid ; " but the gang killed the sheriff and wounded
the deputy-sheriff and collector before the people arose
in their majesty to squelch them. A criminal is in
vested with a notoriety which, next to popular estima
tion, is valued by some men, and it is noted with
interest that " Gilbert " (one pitiless murderer) is a
Catholic, and that " Eosengrants " (another homicide)
" inclines towards the Episcopalians." A Leadville
doctor visits one of them to ask for his body. " No,
sirree, you can't have my body ; I'll be hanged first ! "
And the public laugh at the lively sally, and admire
the sangfroid of the wit ! In fact, there is a
tendresse for crime in this grim humour. A Texan who
VOL. n. N
1/8 Hesperothen.
would " fill the skin " of a stranger " with lead " for
aspersing Texas would no douht heartily enjoy the
description of the early population of the Lone Star
State, which I quote from the Texas Press. " In the
early days of the Kepublic, and even after annexation,
many of the white men who came here had strong
sanitary reasons for a change of climate, having been
threatened with throat disease so sudden and dangerous
that the slightest delay in moving to a new and milder
climate would have been fatal, the subjects dying of
dislocation of the spinal vertebrae at the end of a few
minutes and a rope. A great many left Arkansas,
Indiana, and other States in such a hurry that they
were obliged to borrow the horses on which they rode
to Texas. They mostly recovered on reaching Austin,
and many invalids began to feel better and consider
themselves out of danger as soon as they crossed the
Brancos River. Some who would not have lived twenty-
four hours longer had they not left their homes reached
a green old age in Western Texas, and were never again
in risk of the bronchial affection already referred to by
carefully avoiding the causes which led to their trouble.
Some at Austin recovered so far as to be able to run for
office, within a year, though defeated by a respectable
majority, owing to the atmosphere and the popularity
of the other candidate." The most extraordinary
fact connected with the indulgence which is ex
tended to Western excesses is the severity with which
Northern and Eastern writers and publicists deal
with the recklessness of Southerners with regard to
" Homicide North and South'' 179
life, as if it were a political question in some way
connected with slavery. In an article on " Coloni
sation," in the July number of ' The International
Review/ there is an attempt to prove that the pre
valence of homicide in the South as compared with the
North has impeded the flow of immigrants, although
slavery has disappeared, and the writer, quoting Mr.
Eedfield's book on ' Homicide North and South,' says
the terrible " scourge of open murder, wholly irrespec
tive of political causes more deadly than disease or
yellow fever, because each death is the result of a
heinous crime, seems to be calmly accepted by public
opinion as a part of the unchangeable conditions of
social life in the South. In Kentucky more men are
killed in six days than in eight years in Yermont. In
a village of Connecticut a death from homicide has
never occurred from its foundation, while in one grave
yard in Owen County, Kentucky, the majority are
murdered men, and in another county forty-two persons
were killed and forty-three wounded in two years."
But in the very same number of the ' International '
there is an account of the doings of the "Vigilance
Committee " of San Francisco (where there were no
slaves and where there is immense wealth), which
might cause the author of the paper on " Coloni
sation " to reflect a little on his theories. Surely in
Arizona, California, &c., where the foreign population
is 50 per cent, of the natives, immigration has not been
checked by the prevalence of homicide ? It must not
be supposed that there is no " law " in the towns where
N 2
1 80 Hesperothen.
these crimes have been committed; in all the cases
referred to the coroner did his office and verdicts were
returned, and it will have been seen that " wretches
hang " in due course. We had intended to visit the
State prison at Canon City on our way to Pueblo from
Leadville, where we were promised an opportunity of
seeing " thirty murderers all in a row," but the delay
of the train on the road deprived us of the means of
verifying the statement, and I give it as it was made.
It would seem as if the criminal supply were super
abundant, or that death on the gallows had no deter
rent influence. The chances of escape are, if not
numerous, at least considerable. At Deming, Denver,
Leadville, Tucson, Tombstone, and other cities, the
vast mass of the inhabitants are law-abiding, peace
able, honest, and honourable men, who feel as much
horror at the violence and bloodshed around them as
the most refined lady in any saloon of Boston, Paris, or
London, but they appear to endure these things in
the hope that the law will be enforced at last ; now
and then they break into vigilance committees and
execute their own decrees, though the judges do not
fail to lay it down that they have been accessories to
murder. The great civiliser and police agent is the
railroad. It is affirmed that as the iron way is pushed
on the outlaws and the personnel of outlawry congre
gate at the terminal town, but I suspect that there is
a fringe of the material left on the border as it runs.
As our party were at dinner in the palace-car one
evening the train pulled up at a station. There was a
The L aw's Delay. 1 8 1
group of rough men on the platform, who stared in
with all their eyes at the white tablecloth, set with
bright glass and silver, and at the cheerful faces under
the lamps. " How merry they are. I wonder if they
know that this is Dodge City ? " exclaimed one of the
crowd. I was told hy an official that when they were
making a railway in these parts the surveyors, &c.,
were much troubled by gangs of gamblers and robbers,
who impeded the work and debauched the men, so
after due warning they made a razzia on the gamblers,
shot a lot of them, and the rest " vamosed." There
was not very long ago an actual war in the Grand
Canon Valley between the Atchison, Topeka, and
Santa Fe Kailway and the Denver and Kio Grande
Railway, in which there was an array of armed forces
and fighting on both sides, and we saw with our own
eyes the remains of the breastworks cast up in the
Grand Canon by the belligerents. The law came in at
last. " One side got at the judge first and gave him
$50,000. The other was quite ready to go beyond
that, but the first was too quick, and the suit went
against the company." I was talking to a lawyer
about the length of time which is allowed by the
judges to criminals sentenced to death as a detail of
the execution of the law not in accordance with the
general practice of civilised nations, when one of the
company remarked, " They must do it, sir, to please
the people. If we had Judas Iscariot in gaol to-morrow
there would be thousands of petitions to commute his
sentence, and thousands of dollars ready for an appeal
1 82 Hesperothen.
to the Supreme Court. Our people don't like prompt
sentence." Nevertheless, sentence and execution are
pretty swift when the desperadoes take the law into
their own hands, as we have seen. The revolver and
the " saloon " are the agents and the scene in most of
these murders, and whisky is too often the motive power.
In Kansas it is a criminal offence to sell any intoxicating
spirit, or to use it except on medical certificate. It is
said that the law cannot last, hut it surely was a very
strong conviction of the evils which were endured by
the community that brought a State Legislature,
elected by the people, to enact that beer, wine, and
spirits should be absolutely and entirely banished from
its borders. Lately there was a prosecution by the
State attorney of a man for selling spirits. The case
was clearly proved. The judge charged the jury in
the strongest manner against the defendant. The jury
without retiring at once found a verdict of " not guilty."
" Boys," exclaimed the judge, putting his hand on the
foreman's shoulder, " Boys, I'm quite with you." The
Kansas case will be, I think, watched with great
interest by the rival parties in England, and it is
certainly worth investigation and attention, for, if all
I hear be true here, a Parliament elected by the people
either in advance or in the rear of their constituents
have passed a law which judges condemn, and juries
evade, and public opinion derides.
From a British, which may be an unintelligent, point
of view, there is a want of logical method in the treat
ment of the Great Kebellion question by Americans.
The Great Rebellion. 1 83
There is a general disposition to speak of the war
between the Federal Government and the people of
the Confederate States as an historical fact which has
ceased to present burning controversies and terrible
issues to the Kepublic. But, at the same time, these
controversies are kept alive, and, for the defeated, are
stirred up incessantly by anniversaries and celebrations,
natural but, if it be the object of Americans, as many
of them assure us it is, to let the memory of the past
die out like that of a horrid dream, impolitic. The
spirit which animated the Southern States is neither
dead nor sleeping. But there are no end of Gr. A. P.
and Gr. A. E. Associations flourishing their banners
and waving their sheathed swords in and out of the
newspapers, and it is almost more than Southern flesh
and blood can bear at times to be reminded of the
defeats they sustained, even if they be content to
admit that the doctrine of the sovereignty of States
was a delusion, and that the indivisibility of the
Eepublic was a fundamental principle of the Consti
tution before it was conclusively established by force
of arms.
North and South, our good cousins are fond of
anniversaries and speechmakings. I wonder where
they get their taste for them from ? Some few
veterans dine together on anniversaries of old French
war days, and there is a Balaclava Dinner in the Old
Country ; but, though we have a reasonably long list
of fighting successes to commemorate, their anniver
saries are mostly left to the almanacks. The other
1 84 Hesperothen.
day the Americans had a celebration of the Battle of
Cowpens, wherein the heroic Morgan gave the diabolical
Tarleton the deuce of a whipping. I wonder if it was
worth remembering? But it is better to remember
such things perhaps than Sherman's Eaid or Wilderness
or Chickahominy. There are bitternesses enough
remaining the rivalries and jealousies of generals are
still active and these memories might be left to die
out.
The great war which so deeply moved the population
of the United States has left many traces in Soldiers'
Homes, and men deprived of legs or arms, or bearing
marks of indelible wounds, are to be met with wherever
there is any considerable gathering of people all over
the Union. The clerk at the bar of the hotel, to
whom we were talking a moment ago, was a captain in
a regiment of militia, and served with distinction,
having risen to the grade he occupies by conduct and
courage during the war ; and if he is known among
his friends by the title of " Colonel," he deserves,
probably, the brevet conferred upon him by the
authority of the general public around him. The
conductor of the train on the Pennsylvania Kailroad,
to whose attention we were so much indebted, was an
ex-officer of volunteers, was engaged at the first battle
of Bull Kun, where he was wounded, and in several
other actions. And our good friend the Major, who
enabled us to pass many an hour listening to his
admirable rendering of negro minstrelsy, bore in his
body a proof of the dangers he had passed, in the shape
Manners and Customs. 185
of a Confederate bullet, or it might have been (for I am
not quite sure now) a projectile of the Federal per
suasion. And so on. Scarcely a day passed that we
did not meet someone who had been fighting on one
side or the other.
One great change has come over Americans since I
was last here, and, whether it was the ridicule to which
they were exposed or to a sense of their greatness as a
nation that it be due, it is to be commended. Except
by a professional interviewer, not one of the party was
asked, " What do you think, sir, of our country ? " !
The welcome which an Englishman who is entitled
to admission into good society receives all over the
States, in the best houses, and from the best men, is as
gracious and warm as ever. It seems as if a reaction
against the suspicion, jealousy, and harshness which
marred the political relations of the Eepublic and Great
Britain in times gone by, moved those who behave with
so much courtesy to Englishmen, and that they seem to
say, sotto voce, " Come and see how I forget the wrongs
done to the United States by the Ministers of George
III. and his successors ! Admit that I can be as
magnanimous as I am rich and cultivated ! I am of
your house, but I have transplanted all the good
qualities of your race to American soil, and grafted
them on the tree of liberty which towers aloft in all
the splendour of Transatlantic luxuriance above us."
1 86 Hesperothen.
CHAPTEE IX.
THE BED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.
Captain Pratt Carlisle Barracks An Indian Bowman The Indian
Question The Pupils' Gossip The " School News " Indian
Visitors The White Mother The India Office White and Red
Quo Quousque? Indian Title Deeds The Reservations The
Indian Agencies Missionary Efforts The Red Man and the
Maori.
ON the 5th of May the party visited Carlisle Fort or
Barracks, one of the ancient military establishments
of the Republic, where in the old times, speaking in
an American sense, a considerable force was usually
concentrated to keep watch and ward over the western
frontiers, now extended thousands of miles away to
the Pacific. The Barrack, which is a large quadrangle
capable of containing a couple of regiments, is ap
propriated by the Government to this great ex
periment, the systematic education of the Indians of
both sexes, whose families send them to school for the
purpose of learning English and useful arts, mechanical
and other, which may be of advantage to their people.
It was, perhaps, one of the most interesting of the
many little excursions which the Duke of Sutherland
and his friends made in the States, and as it was the
only one of the schools which we had an opportunity
of seeing I shall proceed to give a little account of
what we witnessed. In the first place let me express
the sense which every one of us entertained of the real
Captain Pratt. 187
sterling qualities of Captain Pratt who is in charge of
the school, and of the devotion and solicitude for
their charges of those ladies employed in the training
establishment. It may be asked how casual visitors
could judge of these things ? The discipline, order,
progress, and perfect method visible in every room, and
the intelligence and good understanding between the
teachers and the pupils which could be perceived
throughout the establishment, were adequate proofs, I
think, that the praise is well deserved. At the time
of our visit there were something under three hundred
pupils, of whom perhaps two hundred were boys, and
these were engaged in their class-rooms, each section
of Indians being arranged according to nationality, if
such a term can be used. But, indeed, the tribes of
Indians differed from each other in personal appearance
far more than do the races which inhabit the Euro
pean continent. It is true they nearly all have straight
wire-like black hair and eyes set deeply and rather
obliquely in faces which are frequently of the Mongol
type. But there is great diversity in the shape of the
head, the angle of the jaw, the formation of the mouth
and nose, the colour (when not tainted or " improved "
by an admixture of European blood, whether Mexican
or American or other) being pretty uniform, a rich
bronze, with something of a copper hue, predominating
in the young people. The boys were dressed in a plain
neat uniform of greyish-blue, military tunics and
trousers, well shod and comfortably equipped in all
respects. The girls, amongst whom, perhaps, taste for
1 88 Hesperothen.
eccentric finery was not unobservable, wore dresses less
uniform in appearance, generally neat and always clean ;
but their foot gear was rather eccentric. The rooms,
spacious barrack-like apartments, well ventilated, were
appropriated to the classes according to age and pro
gress, the boys being separated from the girls. The
walls were hung with maps and furnished with educa
tional coloured prints, and boards for arithmetical
exercises were in each apartment. The desks and stools
were such as would be seen in an ordinary school, and
if one had not looked at the faces of the pupils and
been struck by some of the strange characters on the
walls he would have thought himself in the middle
of some ordinary school; save, perhaps, that his ear
would have missed the curious humming noise which
marks the industry of idleness or of legitimate work
in similar establishments in Europe. But here were
all these young savages, poring over their books or
boring with their pens, looking up at the visitors
scarcely with curiosity and applying themselves again
to their work, or answering questions put to them with
the composure which must be a portion of the Ked
Man's nature.
I cannot recollect how many tribes there were repre
sented at the Carlisle school; but I was struck by
the race-distinctions which could be observed when
Captain Pratt, standing on a raised platform, called
out the names of each tribe. The little batches, in
some instances only one or two, stood up briskly and
looked somewhat proudly about, as much as to say,
Carlisle Barracks. 1 89
" We are Sioux (or Apaches, or Ponchas, or Creeks),
not like these other fellows." And the young ladies
were, if one might judge from their expression, quite
as proud of their own people as the boys. But the
names these poor children receive are ludicrous. Not
content with calling them by English names, or
American, singularly misapplied, very often, as a name
may be, their own Indian nomenclature is translated
into English, so that we heard reading and reciting
beside "Luke Phillips" and "Almarine McKillip " (a
Scotch Creek) " Maggie Stands-looking " and " Eeuben
Quick-bear." There was something of sarcasm, I think,
in the address of a Creek boy to the visitors. He said :
" The Indian boys had come here to learn something
about the use of the bow and hunting. Their people
believed that if boys grew up to manhood without
learning they would be of no use ; therefore they had
sent the boys here to get education." Then, after
some moral if trite reflections, the lad said : "You must
understand that nearly everything that was made was
made both for the present and the future. This bar
racks was not built for Indians, as I do not think the
men who built it ever thought that it would be an
Indian school ; but things were made to do good both
in the present and in the future." And then quoth
he, looking at his white friends straight in the face :
" The education which we are getting here is not like
our own land, but it is something that cannot be
stolen nor bought from us." And the white man did
not turn red at the words ! I do not pretend to judge
Hesperothen.
of the actual progress made in learning, but the very
intelligent self-possessed teachers reported uniformly
that they were satisfied. The most useful education,
perhaps, which these Indians receive is in practical
mechanics, and a visit to the workshops attached to
the barracks was amply repaid by the sight of these
industrious young fellows hammering and leathering
away in the various departments. They have actually
completed waggons of a most satisfactory construction,
complete in all their parts, so much so that orders
have been received for as many as can be supplied for
the use of Agencies. They make and repair their own
shoes. They have sent out a hundred and twenty
double sets of harness. They make coffee-boilers,
cups, pans, pails, and all the articles known to the
tin-smith; and the girls are taught to hem and sew
and knit in the English fashion; but it must have
been not many a long year before the white man
landed, when the ancestors of these Indian maidens
exercised the same mystery with fine sinew and skin
in the wonderful work of which specimens are handed
down to us to-day. On one point alone, perhaps,
there was something to regret ; the health of the
children was not all that could be desired. Well
clad, regularly fed, I presume on wholesome food,
cleanly lodged in well-ventilated rooms, these wild
children of the plains scarcely came up to the expecta
tions one would form of them in the matter of chest-
measurement ; and although many were remarkable
for fine physical development, Captain Pratt confessed
An Indian Bowman. 191
that their sanitary condition was not everything that
could be desired, and that losses from consumption and
other causes were rather serious. But they have
plenty of out-door exercise. They have games in
which they rejoice. They drill and march to the
sound of their own band, a very good brass band of
eight performers, each of a different tribe, who played
"Hail Columbia!" and the "Star-Spangled Banner,"
and the like, with energy and zest ; nay, with har
monious concurrence. When we went out into the
large open square, there appeared before us a wonder
ful being in feathers, waving plumes, wampum and all
the leathern panoply and peltry adornments of an
Indian, painted, and armed with bow and arrow, pro
bably such an one as Captain John Smith may have
seen as he went exploring the woods of Virginia on
his way to the sacrifice from which he was saved by
Pocahontas. A target was erected at a distance of
a hundred yards or so, and had I been in the centre of
it, I should have been perfectly safe from the arrows
which the Indian warrior discharged at it. But we
were told that with a good bow a strong-armed Indian
will drive an arrow right through a buffalo, and in
that case I would suppose that the buffalo was very
near to him indeed.
Of course it is but natural to find very varying
degrees of intelligence amongst the pupils, and the
rate of progress was by no means uniform, but a
committee of examination which recently visited the
1 92 Hesperothen.
school declared that the manifestations of advance
ment in the rudiments of English education were to
them simply surprising. It was with admiration
bordering on amazement they observed the facility and
accuracy with which the children passed through the
various exercises, in reading, geography, arithmetic,
and writing, of the schoolroom ; the accurate training
and the amount of knowledge displayed were, they re
ported, the fullest proof not only of skilful teaching, but
of great aptitude and diligence on the part of the chil
dren. Considering the brief period during which the
school had been in operation, and the fact that the chil
dren entered it in a wholly untutored condition, the
evidence was conclusive of the capability of culture.
They go on to say : " We are fully persuaded that im
provement equal to that which we have witnessed in
the case of these children of the plains, if made in equal
time by American children, would be regarded as quite
unusual. And when the difficulty of communication
consequent upon the diversities of language is taken
into account we can but feel that the results of which
we have been the witnesses to-day justify our judgment
of them as amazing."
One of the most interesting features connected with
the attempts to educate the Indians at Carlisle is the
' School News,' a little publication which, as I under
stand, is conducted by Indian pupils taught in the
establishment, edited by Samuel Townsend, a Pawnee
Indian boy. It is published once a month, and costs
The Indian Question. 193
25 cents or Is. per year. It takes as its motto the
lines :
" A pebble cast into the sea is felt from shore to shore,
A thought from the mind set free will echo on for ever more."
Perhaps neither the metre nor the actual state
ment commend themselves to acceptance, but the
matter of the little journal is full of interest. In the
first place the names of the contributors afford full
matter for meditation. Perhaps it is one of the steps
which must be taken to civilise these poor Indians that
their names should undergo a strange and, to me,
unmeaning metamorphose. There seems no reason
whatever why the Indian names should not be re
tained, or if there is any reason for changing them, at
least there might be some discrimination and good
taste exercised in the adoption of English Christian
names.
The first number of the ' School News,' which I have
before me, contains as an article : " What Michael
Burns, an Apache boy, thinks on the Indian Question.''
He says, " I cannot help myself, having much feeling for
my people, what has been said about them, and the
efforts making to give us the same privileges as the
people of the United States. And it is said how
we have been treated by the bad white man, for the
last ten or fifteen years, decreasing our number. But
that kind for treatment for my nation will soon stop."
The poor boy goes on to say: "There is no doubt
that we are in fault. We had the opinion that we
VOL. n. o
1 94 Hesperothen.
could not get beaten by any other nation. Now we
know for ourselves that we will have to change. . . .
But how does the white man know which way
is the best to do. Was he born that way ? No !
Education gives him the light of knowledge." Then
a boy named Marcus Poko writes to his father : " I
want you to try hard and leave the Comanche way,
and to find the white man's way." In the leading
article, written, I presume, by Samuel Townsend, it is
said : " Indian ways will never be good any more, it
is all passed, gone away, and the other way is coming
up to take the place. We shall all be glad when we
all get into the civilised way of living, then the
Indians will not make so much trouble for the
American people. Some people say 'let the Indians
get out of the way. There is no use in trying to
advance them, kill them all they are like the wild
animals deaf and dumb, they never will learn any
thing. We have already paid so much money for
them they have never become civilised yet.' But all
good people say, ' Oh, yes, give them an education and
plenty of opportunities, and send more teachers among
them so they may come up beside us and live as
brothers and live in peace.' " There is a little paragraph
as to language. " There are a great many words in
the English," says the writer, " that the Indians have
no word for, so the white people who make the Indian
books have to make new Indian words. So the Indians
have to learn the new Indian words. Now we don't
know much about it, but we believe the Indians can
The Pupils' Gossip. 195
all learn to speak the same as the whites." Then
there is a column about the school news : " Lizzie
McRae, a Creek girl, made a very good corn hread the
other day. We had some of it. It was right good I
J
tell you." " Eohert American Horse is a steady boy.
He works in the blacksmith shop very well, and Mr.
Harris never has to tell him but once how to do some
thing." " One of the teachers had artificial violets on her
belt. A Gros Yentre boy saw them, but did not know
what they were, so he got up from his desk and went
close to the teacher. He looked at it and then smelt
it. When he smelt it he said, ' Pooh ! rags ! ' : " Boys,
some time ago Captain Pratt gave us advice about
throwing stones at birds. Some of the boys who
understand most English did not listen. We want
the birds to come and stay with us and sing for
us, too. Let us remember about this, and not let
Captain Pratt have to say it again." " Last Sunday
some of the large girls had a prayer-meeting in the
yard at the back of the girls' quarters. Nobody told
them to do it, but they thought it would be a good
thing." There is a long. letter from Lizzie Walton, a
Pawnee girl of thirteen years old, describing a trip to
Philadelphia, and I believe there are very few girls of
thirteen years of age in any school who could write
more amusingly or better. The account of a magic
lantern by Ada Bent, a Cheyenne girl, closes the
number.
Letters from the children who are sent out to the
farmers are published in this little periodical, and give
o 2
196 Hesperothen.
a very pleasing picture of the lives and aptitudes of
these Indians. Virginia, of Kiowar, writes from a farm,
asking one of the teachers to pardon her for not having
done so before ; but " I have not much time," she says,
" I am very busy set the table and wash dishes make
my bed and make pies and cakes and try to make
bread too, and the other things beside. . . . Sometime
I make fire and bring in wood. Mrs. Borton is very
kind lady she has two children one girl and boy. I
love these little children very much." " My dear
Miss H , I am not bad a girl I help now a great
deal. I pray for you almost every night, also when I
wake up in the morning. I like to pray very much
because I make myself good." And so on in a pleasant
little gossiping way, frequently in very difficult lan
guage. There is an article in the ' School News ' of
July upon the shooting of President Garfield : " The
man who shot him," says the writer, " we suppose,
thought he would please some of the people in the
United States. He thought he was very smart. If
President were to die how would every white man,
black man and the Indian feel ? It was not in war
when the President was shot, for our country don't
have war any more, but in peace. . . . We all feel
sorry because the President is suffering. We hope he
will soon recover." It is stated that about a hun
dred boys and girls have gone out to work on the
farms, and there are some trite remarks about the
advantages of hard work as opposed to the disad
vantages of laziness. " The farmers up country say
The ' School News.' 197
the Indian boys can bind wheat first-rate." "Nelly
Cook, Sioux, made 36 sheets in one day last week.
Nellie Gary, Apache, made 32, and Ella Moore, Creek,
made 30. Boys, do you think those girls are lazy?"
The ' School News ' has a reporter, it would appear,
for the paper says that " Our reporter took a walk
round in the shops to see what the boys were doing.
In all the shops every boy was busy. In the car
penter shop there were Jock (Arapahoe), Ralph
(Sioux), Elwood (Iowa), and Joe Gun (Ponca) sawing
out window and door frames. Oscar (Cheyenne) and
Michael Burns (Apache) were busy carving balcony
posts ; and Lester (Arapahoe) was outside chiselling
a beam. These things are all for our new hospital. . . .
Jesse (Arapahoe) and Little Elk (Cheyenne) were busy
in the gymnasium. The waggons which Eobert
American Horse has finished painting are to be sent
to Oregon and Washington Territories." It is some
times difficult to make out the meaning of the little
prattle which these small people commit to the un
certain medium of the English tongue; but, on the
whole, it is a most interesting and curious study. In
one respect these children of the forest possess that
which civilisation seems rather to dwarf amongst men of
the highest culture and imagination a certain stately
eloquence and nobility of expression, in which natural
images abound, and allegory and metaphor consort
together in excellent and tasteful union. In a paper
called ' Eadle Keatah Toh,' which seems to have been
the precursor of the ' School News/ there is an inter-
198 Hesperothen.
esting report from the Committee on Indian Affairs to
the House of Eepresentatives, submitted by Mr. Pound.
The motto of the paper is " God helps those who help
themselves "; but surely it might be better put that God
will help those who seek to do good to the unfortunate
Indians, who in contact with civilisation are rendered
utterly helpless, and who in their attempts to help them
selves according to the manner of the race must meet with
nothing but extinction. From time to time there are
notices of deaths. One would like to know who wrote
the account of the "death of John Eenville, son of
Gabriel Eenville, Chief of the Sisseton Sioux." After
noticing the circumstances under which he contracted
his fatal illness fever, produced by drinking water
at a spring on a hot day on a march to the camp in
Perry County, the writer says : " ' Death loves a
shining mark,' the poet sang long ago ; and in the
passing away of John Eenville from our school we
sadly say, how truthfully the poet sang
Through all the days of his sickness his large sorrow
ful eyes had a far-away wondering look, no pain
marred the beauty of his brow, and his voice as he
addressed his sister, who tenderly watched over him,
was like the trumpet warbling of some mournful bird.
Our hearts follow the father in deep sympathy as he
bears back the body of his beautiful boy to the land
of the Dakotas for burial."
The Indian chiefs have a right, which they often
exercise, of visiting these schools as a Board; and
there is an account in the Carlisle paper of the visit
Indian Visitors. 199
of Spotted Tail, Iron Wing, White Thunder, Black
Crow, and Louis Kobideau from the Eosebud Agency ;
Bed Cloud, American Horse, Ked Dog, Bed Shirt,
Little Wound, and Two Strike from the Pine Eidge
Agency; Like the Bear and Medicine Bull from
the Lower Brule Agency ; Son of the Star, Poor
Wolf, Peter Beaucharnp, and John Smith from
Fort Berthold; Two Bears, John Big Head, Grass,
Thunder Hawk, and Louis Primeau from Stand
ing Eock; Charger and Bull Eagle from Cheyenne
Eiver ; Brother to All and James 'Broadhead from
Crow Creek; Strike the Eee and Jumping Thunder
from Yankton ; Eobert Hakewashte and Eli Abraham
from Santee Agency; Mr. Tackett and his wife
and daughter ; a daughter of Spotted Tail, and
others. The meeting of the children with their
parents is described as being most touching; and
sometimes the pupils were not recognised, so greatly
had they altered. As the chiefs seemed unwilling to
speak when called upon to do so, there was silence for
a time till a little girl, who had been about a year and
a half at the school, expressed her desire to speak in so
earnest a way that General Marshall permitted her to
do so; and so, speaking in her own dialect, her words were
translated into English and into Sioux. She declared
that she liked the white man's ways and the white man's
language. Indian words, she said, were down on the
ground, but the white man's language was in his head.
The chiefs, who listened attentively, seemed to under
stand this curious figure of speech, and nodded their
2OO Hesperothen.
approval. And then she enlarged upon the advantage
of what she learned, and implored the chiefs to send
their children to the school, where she says she is
going to try to be God's daughter. Her words seemed
to kindle the fire within the chieftains' breasts, for Like
the Bear, a Sioux, and father of one of the boys at
Hampton School, came forward and addressed the
meeting. " There is no greater power in the world,"
said he, " than the Great Spirit, and we must listen to
Him and do what He wants us to do. When the men
who were sent out by the Great Father the President
asked for my children I gave them up. I see you are
making brains for my children, and you are making
eyes for them so that they can see. That is what I
thank the Great Spirit for, and it is that which will
make me strong." Then Eobert Hakewashte, a chief
from the Santee Agency, spoke, and said that he wanted
schools like that which he saw here on his own reser
vation, and Spotted Tail wished for the same thing.
" Since I have learned the words of God," he says, " it
makes no difference to me what is the colour of a man's
skin ; if he walks like a man it is the same. I do not
believe God likes the white colour only. God likes
red and white, for He made them all." And then the
flood of eloquence was loosened, and an old chief of the
Sioux, nearly blind, verging on ninety years of age,
who had come to see his grandson, said : " I grew up a
red man, and the things I see here I never had a chance
to see before. I have heard about the white man's
church and his religion, and I have heard about the
The White Mother. 201
holy house. I have looked into them, and I am very
much pleased. But there is only one Great Spirit we
all can worship, and the red men all over the country
are hearing about it. You are teaching the children
to worship the Great Spirit. That is a great thing,
and I' like it. But you have here two sons of one
father. One is sick. I want you to keep the other."
And so he carried him away.
The condition of the Bed Man who is allowed to exist
under the banner of the Kepublic is a subject which
has attracted the attention of the best and wisest men
in the United States. The treatment of the Indians
is a question of future policy. It is one which must
exercise a very deep and abiding influence on the whole
history of an ancient and interesting people. But it is
exceedingly difficult to put in a short compass its most
salient points before those who are unacquainted with
the nature of the problems to be solved. Comparisons
are odious, above all places, in America, when they
are not to the advantage of the Great Bepublic, and
I shall not draw any between the state of the Indian
tribes in Canada and in the States. But it may be
fairly admitted that the Indian Question in Canada
is divested of many of the difficulties which surround
it south of the lakes. The people of Canada have far
more land than they know what to do with. They
are a sparse population. They are not impelled
to fierce adventures by mining "booms," and they
are altogether less progressive than their American
brethren. Shall we say that they are more charitable,
2O2 Hesperothen.
more humane, less greedy of other men's goods ? I do
not say so. But at all events it is perfectly true that
the Ked Man, although he is dying out under the
influence of whiskey and other influences which need
not he particularised, in his native land, lives in com
parative peace and comfort under the British flag in
Canada. He is content with the White Mother. He
pursues the occupations dear to his race as a hunter
and as a fisherman. He is a dealer in peltries, and in
such small harter as his needs require. He is the
companion of sportsmen, and he delights, free as moun
tain air, to hunt on the hillside and in the prairie in
winter over the vast ranges of snowy fields which in
the few short months of spring and summer teem with
flowers, and the frosty lakes which yield fish to his spear
and net. There are few or no railways through his
reservations to vex his repose, no great trains of miners
with pick and rifle to drive away the moose and the
huffalo, and hand the native hunter over to starvation.
The Indian gives to the white man all he needs, and
aids him in obtaining from the wide stretch of land
over which he roams all the wealth that it can afford.
Practically one part of the Dominion is handed over
to the Bed Man and to the half-breeds, for there
is an Indian frontier which as yet has not been much
encroached upon by any large migration of whites.
As far as I know, conflicts north of the Saint Lawrence
between Indians and whites are unknown, or have not
been heard of for very many years. South of the great
lakes, in the wonderful land over which is displayed the
The India Office. 203
banner of the stars and stripes, the fate of the Indian
is very different. In the words of Mr. Carl Schurz,
himself an expert in the question, " the history of the
relations of the United States with the Ked Man
presents in great part a record of broken treaties, of
nnjust wars and of cruel spoliation." That is a sweep
ing statement, which it would be just as well for an
Englishman not to make, but coming from the mouth
of an American citizen and of a United States Minister
with plenty of evidence to back it, there can be no
harm in recording my conviction of its truth. It is
but another indictment against a defect in the form of
government which Americans exalt as the most perfect
of human institutions, that the central government
made treaties in good faith with the Indian tribes, but
was unable to enforce their obligations or to maintain
their integrity. There is, as all well-informed people
know well informed, at least, in reference to American
affairs a commissioner who makes an annual report
to the Secretary of the Interior respecting the Indian
tribes in the various locations over the Union and
the Territories. The last of these reports which I
have seen is that of the Acting Commissioner Mr.
Marble, addressed to the Department of the Interior
from the office of Indian Affairs at Washington in the
November of last year. The volume contains the
reports of the agents in the Indian Territory ; of the
schools for Indian children established in pursuance of
a wise and humane policy, and detailed statistics in
relation to the Indian settlements and reservations, the
2O4 Hesperothcn.
latter indeed forming by far the largest portion of the
volume of 400 pages. Before I call attention to the
condition of the Indians, and the efforts made to save
them from extinction or from a degradation worse than
annihilation, I should like to direct the attention of
those who are interested in the subject to the view
which is beginning to find favour, I believe, among
the most experienced men in the States, that the
system of "Beservations " is founded on a mistake the
magnitude of which is demonstrated every day, and that
the only means of saving the Indians from extinction
is their gradual absorption as educated communities in
the agricultural life of the nation, keeping them far
as may be from the white man, but making no other
distinction between them and the other citizens of the
United States than such as must be found in the nature
of the Indian race and their degree of culture and civi
lisation treating them, in fact, as communities of
Mennonites, Mormons, or Norwegians, or other nation
alities would be treated in the United States. When
the Eeservations were first established it was con
sidered impossible that the migration of the whites
would extend to the remote regions of the west to
which the unfortunate survivors of the people with
whose virtues and vices Cooper and other novelists
have made us familiar were gradually and often re
morselessly driven. It is a plea which will be urged in
"bar of judgment that the doctrine of States Eights
prevented the interference of the United States Govern
ment on behalf of the Indian tribes who were often
White and Red. 205
ruthlessly destroyed. But it will scarcely be a plea,
I think, which humanity in full court would recognise
as valid. Homo liomini lupus. But to the Ked Man
as to the Black in many cases the White Man is worse
than any wolf; far more bloodthirsty and rapacious
than any tiger a Cain of Cains. It was our own kith
and kin who, landing on the shores of the North
American continent, encroaching by degrees upon the
tribes and at last encountering their hostility, spread
their sway literally by fire and sword, and rooted out
the Ked Man wherever they found him established on
land or by sea which they coveted. We, whose country
men have worked out the same policy on the Australian
continent and Van Diemen's Land, and who can only
be restrained from its pursuit in New Zealand by the
strong arm of the Home Government, can scarcely
afford to take up stones to fling at our American
brethren ; and it is not with any purpose of indictment
or accusation that I proceed to make a few remarks
on the relations of the United States Government with
the Red Man, and the efforts which they have been
making to compensate the Indians in some measure
for the injustice and persecution dealt out for many
a generation.
As I looked at the men gathered at some of the
railroad stations in the western desert and thought
of the Bed Men whose fate it is to meet such repre
sentatives of civilisation and Christianity, I could not
but be filled with pity for the unfortunates and with
wonder at " the dispensation " under which they live.
206 Hesperothen.
The faces are fine and bold enough, bearded to the
cheek or shaved in the American fashion, with bold
staring eyes, which " look square " in your own, with
a general expression " Do you want a fight ? " in them
the heads to which they belong are generally set on
muscular bodies. If a gang of these men think fit to
go on to an Indian reservation the very name is too
often a bitter mockery who is to stop them ? If the
Indians try to do so and one of the white intruders is
killed the country-side rings with cries of " vengeance
for the massacre of our brethren," and all the papers are
filled with accounts of " Another Indian Outbreak."
" The average frontier-man in the States looks," as
Mr. Schurz says, '' upon the Indian merely as a
nuisance in his way. There are many whom it would
be difficult to convince that it is a crime to kill an
Indian." I will go further and say that there are
many, I believe, who would take great pleasure in kill
ing an Indian whenever they could ; or as one gentle
man observed to me, and I believe in his relations with
white men no more just or honourable man or more
humane could be found, " I would sooner kill an Indian
than I would a skunk." When I was in the West,
there was a cry raised that the Utes were about to
wage war, and appeals appeared in the local papers
for a military force to march against them. Their
leaders were accused of arrogance and of insolence,
and of murderous designs, and the general remark
one heard was, " The Utes must go." I inquired a
little into the matter when I got back, and I found
"Quo Quousque?" 207
that the Utes were strictly and absolutely, in their
own right, standing upon the titles, which they had
derived from the United States Government, to the
lands from which they were required to move. These
lands were wanted. Other lands were pointed out to
them, to which they objected, and then they were
informed that they would be moved by force, and pre
parations were made to levy war against these unfor
tunates, if they resisted deportation from the territory
which had been assigned to them by the Great Father.
Had they been Irish landlords, they could not have
been treated worse; but in the West not one word
was raised in favour of their claims.
The first point which has to be considered is, that
the Indian is obnoxious to the very class of men with
whom he is by the necessity of things most closely
brought in contact. The railway has been the great
persecutor of Ked Men. It has driven away the game,
it has carried in proximity to their reservations all the
enterprise charged with whiskey, revolver, rifle, and
greed, which can be furnished by the offscourings of
the world. In the Far West the miners in advance
throng into the valleys, and break the silence of the
mountain-ranges by the sound of their picks, the cattle-
raisers spread out over the plains, the ploughman settles
down on the fertile land. " What," asks the American
philanthropist, and his question is echoed all over the
world by humane and good men, " what is to become
of the Indian ? " The hunting-grounds are gradually
being pushed farther west and north until they are
2o8 HesperotJien.
bounded by the sea, and by the eternal snow. And if
by any chance it should be found that there is gold or
lead, silver or iron, or copper, or coal in any abundance,
even under these unpromising conditions it will be
sought. The buffalo is disappearing fast, faster than
the Indian himself. Deer are becoming scarcer every
year. What is to be left for the Red Man ? Pastoral
life and agriculture, say the philanthropists, The
substitution, however, is not so easy. The weakness
of the United States Government is the main cause
why the policy of reservations has failed. Let us
take the account of it by a United States Minister.
" The G-overnment," says Mr. Schurz, " has tried to
protect the Indians in good faith against encroach
ments, and has failed. It has yielded to the pressure
exercised upon it by people in immediate contact
with the Indians. When a collision between Indians
and whites once occurred, no matter who was respon
sible for it, our military forces were always found
on the side of the white against the savage. How
was Government to proclaim that white men should
for ever be excluded from the millions of acres covered
by Indian reservations, and that the national power
would be exerted to do so ? " Such an idea the American
Minister thinks would be utterly preposterous. The
rough and ready frontier-man would pick quarrels
with the Indians; the speculators would urge him on.
Government could not prevent collisions; the conflict
once brought on, Government, in spite of its good
intentions and sense of justice, would find itself em-
Indian Title Deeds. 209
ploying its forces to hunt down the Indian. The old
story would be repeated, as it will be wherever, says
Mr. Schurz, there is a large and valuable Indian Ke-
servation surrounded by white settlements, " and un
just, disgraceful as it is, that is an inevitable result."
Such being the case then, the United States Govern
ment being powerless to see that right shall be done,
and it being at once a human and a Christian duty to
avert, if possible, the extinction of the original pos
sessors of this grand continent, let us see what can be
done to carry out the object. Fit the Indians, it is
said, for the habits and occupations of civilised life ;
give them individual possession of land as property,
a fee-simple title to the fields they cultivate, guarded
by an absolute prohibition of sale because it has been
found that whenever the Indians are exposed to the
temptation of artful traders, they will be cajoled out
of the titles they have to their land and you will save
the remnants from utter destruction. I hope it will
be so. I could not but feel a glow of enthusiasm when
I heard the Attorney-General, Mr. MacVeagh, at
Washington, speaking incidentally one day about some
railway matter, declare that he would not sanction
the making of a line of railway through Indian Terri
tory until he was satisfied that the Indians actually
understood the conditions which had been offered to
them by the company. " I will," said Mr. MacVeagh,
"send down government agents there to ascertain
that the Indians thoroughly understand what they are
doing, and that it is of their own free will and consent
VOL. II. P
2 1 o Hesperothen.
that the railway passes through their territory in ex
change for the money and goods they receive for the
concession." Excellent and just minister ! But, alas !
I believe that ere I left the United States the whole
thing was done ; the railway company had declared
that they would, whether or no, make their line, and
if an Indian touched a hair of the head of any white
man, the United States Government would not be able
to avert the Divine wrath of every white man on the
border from the whole of the tribe. Well may Mr.
Schurz say that the thought of exterminating a race
once the only occupants of the soil, where so many
millions of our own people have flourished, must be
revolting to every American who is not devoid of all
sentiments of justice and humanity. Extermination
or civilisation is the alternative offered to the Indian.
Now let us see how it is proposed to civilise them.
According to the returns in the Eeport for 1880, the
number of Indians in the United States, exclusive of
those in Alaska, is 256,127. Of these, 138,642 are
described as wearing citizen's dress. It will be observed
that there is no estimate given of the Indians who
do not wear citizen's dress under this head. Citizens
must be sometimes very badly dressed indeed if the
Indians I saw at various stations along the line to San
Francisco in shocking bad hats and tattered clothes were
to be included amongst those who figured under this
description in the report of the Commissioner. About
17,000 houses are reported as occupied. There are
224 schools, attended by 6000 scholars for a month
The Reservations. 211
or more during the year, scattered over the continent.
About 34,550 Indians could read. There were 154
church buildings and 74 missionaries. The number of
children of school age was 34,541 ; but this was an
under estimate. Of these there was only school ac
commodation for 9972. The total amount expended for
education during the year by the United States Govern
ment was $249,299; by the State of New York,
$15,863 ; by the State of Pennsylvania, $325 ; by
other States, nothing ; by religious societies, $46,933 ;
by tribal funds, $7481. 22,048 Indian families were
engaged in cultivating farms or small patches of
ground ; 33,125 male Indians were labouring in civil
ised pursuits ; and 358 Indian apprentices had been
pursuing trades during the year. This census and
these statistics are stated to be imperfect, and it would
require a close examination of the returns to enable an
inquirer to form any idea as to the progress made in
the direction which we are told is the alternative of
destruction.
The Eeservations of the various Indian tribes are
scattered irregularly over the United States; from
Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota on the north and
north-west, away to the Territories on the other side of
the Kocky Mountains, down to New Mexico and Arizona,
there being none in the southern states bordering the
Atlantic. But there are Ked Men of different tribes
located, as the Americans would say, in the States to the
east, such as New York. The Eeservations are of irre
gular size and extent. Isabella, in the State of Maine,
212 Hesperothen.
reserved for 848 Indians, lies to the east of 86 longi
tude, and south of 44 latitude. There is a consider
able group of Eeservations on the western shore of
Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and in Minnesota. But
the proper Indian territory lies west of Arkansas,
with the Eed Eiver on the south, New Mexico on
the west, and Kansas on the north ; and in it are
concentrated the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chicasaws,
Comanches, Cheeynnes, and several other tribes. The
Navajo Eeservation in New Mexico and Arizona ranks
perhaps next in size, extending northwards into
Colorado, where the Utes have got a large tract of
land assigned to them upon what appears now to
be very doubtful or vanishing tenure. These, and
numerous reservations, which it would be tedious to
enumerate, are under the charge of agents appointed
by the Government at Washington, as to whose
functions and personal character and attainments one
hears very surprising and contradictory reports. But
I confess, from a perusal of the documents which they
have furnished to the head of the Department, and
which are published in the Annual Eeport, there
seems to me no just ground for imputing to these
gentlemen want of zeal, knowledge, interest, or
intelligence. Those who detest the whole work of
saving the Eed Man are very apt to impute to the
Indian agents not only corrupt practices in relation to
the sale of government stores and supplies destined
for the use of those under their charge, but illicit
traffic in spirits, which is ruinous to the Eed Man,
The Indian Agencies. 213
and even some participation in the acts of violence
which have frequently led to Indian troubles. It all
depends upon the manner in which your informant in
the States regards the Indian Question whether the
agents are described as scoundrels whom no man could
trust, or as gentlemen of high propriety and general
excellence.
The necessities which have been imposed by ad
vancing civilisation of providing Indians with food
entail a heavy outlay upon the United States Govern
ment, which is much begrudged by large sections of
members of Congress, although they do not see their way
clearly to withhold supplies of food from the unfor
tunate people whose hunting-grounds have been occu
pied, and who have not yet learned the arts of agriculture,
so as to be able to supply themselves with food. The
transportation of stores, the cost of beef, corn, coffee,
bread, tobacco, tea ; in fact, all kinds of food, woollen
goods, clothing, boots, hats, groceries, waggons, tools,
hardware, and medical supplies, all these duly figure
in the estimates of the Indian Commissioner to a very
considerable amount, and the returns as yet do not
present any large reduction on the annual charge;
although nearly all the agents speak in terms of great
hopefulness of the extraordinary advance which has
been made in their agencies in the cultivation of the
soil.
One remarkable division of the agencies has re
ference to their appropriation to religious denomina
tions. An Indian might well be puzzled as to his
214 Hesperothen.
form of belief if he were passed through the various
agencies, attending at each a religious service or two,
and listening to the teaching of the various divines
attached to them. The Society of Friends have
control of the belief and religious teaching of the
Sante and Nemaja Indians in Nebraska, and of the
Pawnees in the Indian Territory ; to the Methodists
are assigned three tribes in California, three tribes in
Washington Territory, two in Oregon, three in Mon
tana, two in Idaho, and one in Michigan. The Nevada
Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chicasaws, and Seminoles
are handed over to the Baptists. The Presbyterians
have charge of the Nezperces in Idaho, Umtas in
Utah; the Apaches, Pueblos, and two other tribes
in New Mexico. The Congregational Church exercises
its religious offices among the tribes in Wisconsin,
among two tribes in Dacotah, and one in Washing
ton Territory. The Eeformed Church has its work
cut out for it in Arizona amongst four tribes. The
Protestant Episcopal Church exercises its jurisdiction
over one tribe in Minnesota, six tribes in Dacotah, one
in Indian Territory, and one in Wyoming. The Uni
tarians have apparently only one tribe in teaching, the
Los Pinos in Colorado. The United Presbyterians have
one tribe in Oregon ; the Christian Union has another
in Oregon ; the Evangelical Lutheran has charge of the
Southern Utes in Colorado; and lastly, the Koman
Catholic Church has two tribes in Washington Terri
tory, two in Oregon, one in Montana, and two in Da
cotah. As a general rule, the reports of the missionaries
Missionary Efforts. 215
themselves are more sanguine, as they are wont to be,
than are those of disinterested, perhaps unprejudiced,
observers of their work. But, as is natural, the actual
progress made depends very much, not only upon the
nature of the tribe among whom the work is carried
on, but on the character of the missionary, and on his
ability and energy. In some instances, I see the con
dition of a tribe is reported as being lamentable,
from a religious point of view, whilst in a neighbour
ing reservation, it is stated that great progress has
been made in the establishment of religious teaching
and ideas. The Eosebud Agency is said to prosper in
the hands of one reverend gentlemen ; the fathers of
St. Ignatius are described as doing good work amongst
the Flatheads ; the Pawnees are left without any mis
sionaries at all, and, says the government report, " are
probably better off without them." And depreciatory
remarks are slightingly introduced concerning the work
at other agencies. On the Devil's Lake Agency, the ma
jority of the adults shun the missionaries as they
would the gentleman who may be supposed to own the
lake by the sides of which they are encamped. The
Jesuit fathers and the Catholic sisters are described
as working generally with zeal and success, whilst one
agency assigned to the Methodists is said to have
no religious agency at all. It is to the success of
the attempts made to educate the Indians at the
public establishments that the philanthropist and
humanitarian must look with the most hopefulness.
All the reports of the teachers and visitors of these
2 1 6 Hesperothen.
schools coincide in one point, that the young Indian
is most teachable, and that in respect of acquiring
knowledge he is, if anything, the superior of the white,
who seems to enjoy no hereditary excellence in his
capacity for acquiring knowledge. The Bill to which
the Keport was an introduction may be considered
indeed as the Magna Charta of the Indian tribes if
it be followed up by judicious treatment, and careful
management of and consideration for the rights con
ferred upon these tribes as preliminary to their ab
sorption as citizens in the mass of the nation, when
they are fit for such an amalgamation with the white
races. The advance of the United States westwards
has left vacant many military posts and barracks,
stranded, as it were, high and dry in the midst of
the torrent of civilisation. Fort Bridger, Wyoming ;
Carlisle Barracks, Pennsylvania; Fort Craig, New
Mexico ; Fort Cummings, in the same territory, and
a number of others, have been named as suitable for
the purpose of educating the Indian children ; and it
was in pursuance of the measure recommended to Con
gress that the various agencies throughout the Indian
Territories were directed to forward children whom
their parents might wish to entrust to the officers of
the United States for education. "Keceived in the
rudest state of savagism," says the Keport, " their pro
gress is already most remarkable." I have already
remarked that the health of the boys is not generally
satisfactory. Their sanitary condition is bad ; and it
would appear that sometimes in these long and tedious
The Red Man and the Maori. 217
journeyings from the remote Indian agencies the poor
children suffer much.
Even at the present moment the Anglo-Saxon
appears to be dealing with the Maori in New Zealand
very much as he has dealt with the native in Tasmania
and in Australia. The history of our relations with
the New Zealand chiefs and people is not in a nature
to enable us to throw stones at the Americans with
impunity, for the glass house in which we live can
very easily be reached. Some sixteen or seventeen
years ago a rebellion, arising out of the aggressions of
the white settlers on the lands of the Maori, was
averted by a Proclamation and by Acts confiscating
a large tract of Tallinassey, which became theo
retically the property of the Crown. Of course the
natives had as little to say to that as the lady who is
mentioned in ' Tristram Shandy ' had with the decla
ration that " she was not related to her own child."
But they did not recognise the occupancy, and when
ever a white man settled upon a portion of the ground
they pulled down his fences and removed his land
marks. The contest is still going on, but no one who
is acquainted with the history of the colony will doubt
what the end will be ; and it is coming soon, or it is
to come, the moment the colonists are bent upon
taking the land, and when it is desired to do so.
" It but feebly expresses the judgment formed from
what we have observed to say that we regard the ex
periment made in this school to educate and improve
Indian children as in every way a very remarkable
VOL. II. Q
2 1 8 Hester othen .
success." Si sic omnes! Why does not the United
States Government, or if not the Government, the
people, abounding in wealth, full of pious impulses,
humane, charitahle, who justly say that the worst use
you can make of an Indian is to hang him ; why do
not the political economists who declare that it costs a
million of dollars to get rid of an Indian with gun
powder and lead; why do not the enterprising and
wealthy capitalists who desire to appropriate Indian
Reservations all comhine to extend the work of these
schools so as to absorb all that remains of the Bed
Man in the rising generation amongst the citizens of
the great Eepublic? A blessed work, worthy of an
imperial State, truly great and truly good !
THE END.
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List of Publications. 17
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List of Publications. 19
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List of Publications. 21
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