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HISTORICAL  ACCOUNT 


OF 


Bi^coberte^  antr  ©rabel^ 


IN 


ASIA, 


FROM  THE  EARLIEST  AGES  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

By  HUGH  MURRAY,  F.  R.  S.  E. 

AUTHOR    OF    *'    HISTORICAL    ACCOUNT    Ol'     DISCOVERIES 
IN  AFRICA." 


VOL.  111. 


EDINBURGH  : 

PRINTED    FOR    ARCHlisALD    CONSTABLE   AND   CO.   EDINBURGH  ; 

AND 

LONGMAN,  HURST,  REES,  ORME,  AND  BROWN,  LONDON. 

1820. 


bc\<' 


CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  III. 


BOOK  IV. 

WESTERN  ASIA. 

CHAPTER  I. 

PERSIA. — EARLY  TRAVELS. 

Zeno. — Barbaro — Contarini. — Vicenze  Alessandri. — Sher- 

ley. — Don    Garcia    de    Sylva. — Herbert Olearius. — 

Chardin. — Bembo — Fra  Leandro,  -  P^ig^  3 

CHAPTER  n. 

PERSIA. — RECENT  TRAVELS  AND  PRESENT  STATE. 

Malcolm. — Olivier. — Morier Present  state   of  Persia. — 

Its  Antiquities,  -  -  -  -  82 

CHAPTER  m. 

PILGRIMAGES  TO  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

Arculfus — Willibald — Bernard. — The   Crusades — Boul- 

desell Brocquiere.  —  Breidenbach Baumgarten. — 

Georgewitz — Aldersey — Sandys,         -        -        -         105 


VI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

Eldred— Biddulph.  —  Pococke.  —  Chandler.  —  Wood — 
Clarke.  —  JNIacdonald  Kinneir.  —  Seetzen.  —  Burck- 
hardt, Page  134 

CHAPTER  V. 

ARABIA. 

Niebuhr. — Valentia. — Seetzen — Bahdia,         -         -  186 


BOOK  V. 

EASTERN  ASIA. 

CHAPTER  I. 

COUNTRIES  BETWEEN  INDIA  AND  CHINA. 

Pegu — Caesar  Frederick. — GasparoBalbi — Symes — Siam. 
— Missions  from  France Cochin-China. — Borri Bar- 
row,          -             ...           ...        207 

CHAPTER  n. 

CHINA. — PORTUGUESE  AND  SPANISH   DISCOVERIES. 

First  Discovery The  Andradas — Thome  Pires — Vene- 
tian report — Notices  from  Mexico The  Augustines. 

— The  Franciscans Ignatius Ricio —  Navarete. — 

Expulsion  of  the  Missionaries,  -  -  261 


CONTENTS.  VU 

CHAPTER  III. 

CHIKA. — EMBASSIES  AND  MISSIONS. 

The  Dutch. — NieuhofF. — The  French. — Lecomte^  &c.— 
Their  favour  at  court. — Expulsion — Russian  Embassies. 
— Isbrand  Ides. — Lange  and  BelJ,  -  Page  295 

CHAPTER  IV. 

BRITISH  EMBASSIES. 

Lord  Macartney. — Lord  Amherst. — Captain  Hall. — Pre- 
sent State,  -  -         -         -  _        .        328 

CHAPTER  V. 

JAPAN. 

Portuguese  Missionaries. — Kaempfer. — Thunberg. — Kru- 
senstern. — Golownin,         .         -  -  .  .        355 


BOOK  VI. 

NORTHERN  ASIA. 

CHAPTER  L 

THE  TERRITORY  OF  CAUCASUS. 

General  Remarks. — Engelniann. — Pallas,  Klaproth,  Gul- 
denstedt,  &c. — The  Circassians,  -  -        >-        398 


VJil  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  II. 

SIBERIA. — EARIY  DISCOVERIES. 

First  Discovery  and  Conquest  by  the  Russians. — Bell,  Page  4'14 
CHAFER  III. 

SIBERIA. — RECENT  TRAVELS. 

Messerschmidt. — Gmelin. — Pallas. — Sievers. — Schangin,    434' 


HISTORICAL  ACCOUNT 


OF 


DISCOVERIES  AND  TRAVELS 


IN 


ASIA. 


VOL.  111. 


BOOK  IV. 

WESTERN  ASIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PERSIA. EARLY  TRAVELS. 

Zeno. — Barbara. — Contnrinu — Vicenze  Alessandri. — Sherley. — 
Don  Garcia  de  Sylva. — Herbert. — Olearius. — Chardin. — 
Bembo. — Fra  Leandro. 

That  vast  and  varied  region,  which  extends  from 
the  Indian  Ocean  to  the  Caspian,  and  from  the 
Euphrates  to  the  mountains  and  deserts  of  the  In- 
dian frontier,  has  formed,  in  all  ages,  a  distinguish- 
ed seat  of  Asiatic  empire.  On  the  Euphrates 
were  seated  those  of  Babylon  and  Nineveh,  the 
first  which  appear  to  have  aimed  at  the  dominion 
of  the  world.  The  seat  of  the  empire  of  the  Great 
King  was  transferred  eastward  to  that  vast  plain 
which  extends  from  the  Persian  Gulf  to  the  Cau- 
casian mountains ;  and  the  Parthians,  in  the  same 
position,  opposed  a  limit  to  the  progress  of  the 
Roman  arms.   The  successive  Arab  and  Tartar 


PERSIA. 


dynasties  which  afterwards  swayed  the  sceptre  of 
this  region,  seldom  attempted  to  pass  the  line  of 
the  Euphrates  and  Tigris. 

All  the  oriental  empires  are  subject  to  change ; 
but  Persia,  above  all,  has  been  swept  by  an  almost 
perpetual  tempest  of  war  and  revolution.  Inter- 
nal rebellion  and  foreign  invasion  have  never 
ceased  to  distract  that  unfortunate  country.  An 
inevitable  cause  may  be  found  in  its  physical  po- 
sition. Its  vast  and  luxuriant  plains  are  border- 
ed and  deeply  indented  by  ranges  of  mountain 
territory,  whose  fierce  and  brave  tenants  are  ever 
observant  of  the  wealth  and  weakness  of  the  re- 
gions beneath.  As  soon  therefore  as  the  energies 
of  the  dynasty  begin  to  sink  under  the  pleasures 
of  its  voluptuous  capitals,  a  more  vigorous  hand 
is  always  ready  to  snatch  the  sceptre  which  its 
present  master  is  unable  to  hold.  Thus  Persia 
continually  changes  its  aspect ;  for  the  track  of 
these  barbarous  conquerors  is  always  desolating, 
while  yet  the  bounties  of  nature  enable  it  conti- 
nually to  recover  from  their  ravages.  There  the 
plough  is  continually  yielding  to  the  sword,  and 
the  sword  to  the  plough  ;  the  same  city  is  found 
in  one  age  an  opulent  and  magnificent  capital, 
and  in  the  next  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  picture, 
though  essentially  the  same,  is  in  all  its  details 
and  minute  features  perpetually  changing. 


THE  VENETIANS.  5 

Towards  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century,  the 
Turkish  power  was  in  the  highest  state  of  energy 
and  activity.  Mahomet  II.  after  stripping  the 
eastern  empire  of  its  remaining  provinces,  had 
wrested  from  it  its  last  seat,  the  imperial  city.  He 
had  thus  established  a  name  terrible  alike  to  the 
East  and  the  West,  and  was  supposed  to  aim  at 
universal  empire.  The  Venetians,  whom  liberty, 
commerce,  and  naval  power,  had  raised  to  a  high 
place  among  the  nations  of  Europe,  were  the  state 
who  viewed  his  progress  with  peculiar  alarm. 
They  held  important  possessions,  both  on  the 
Archipelago  and  the  Euxine ;  and  the  interposi- 
tion of  this  barbarous  and  tumultuary  power 
threatened  to  intercept  that  intercourse  with  In- 
dia, which  formed  the  most  valued  source  of 
their  wealth.  In  this  exigence,  there  appeared 
no  great  power  on  whose  co-operation  they  could 
rely,  except  Persia.  The  rulers  of  this  monarchy 
could  not  view  without  alarm,  the  progress  of  so 
great  a  power  on  their  western  frontier  j  yet  there 
was  little  appearance  that,  without  some  power- 
ful impulse,  they  would  venture  to  contend  with 
such  an  adversary.  The  republic  had  ties  with 
Uzum-cassan,  the  present  monarch  of  Persia,  of  a 
somewhat  peculiar  nature.  His  queen  Despina 
was  daughter  of  a  Greek  prince,  who  then  assumed 
the  title  of  emperor  of  Trebisond  ;  the  antipathies 
of  religion  being  extinguished  in  the  two  mon- 


6  PERSIA. 

archs  by  their  common  dread  of  the  power  of 

Mahomet.  This  monarch  had  married  another 
daughter  to  Nicolo  Crespo,  who,  from  his  wide 
dominion  over  the  islands,  bore  the  title  of  Duke 
of  the  Archipelago,  and  was  united  by  intimate 
ties  with  the  state  of  Venice.  Her  potent  and 
wealthy  nobles  were  then  judged  suitable  mates 
for  the  daughters  of  kings.  Three  of  them  had 
married  three  of  the  daughters  of  this  insular 
prince,  and  became  thus,  in  a  certain  sense,  allied 
to  the  emperor  of  Persia.  One  of  them  was  Cate- 
RiNO  Zeno,  belonging  to  a  family  equally  distin- 
guished for  wealth,  knowledge,  and  enterprise, 
and  who  thus,  when  the  republic  had  determined 
to  send  an  embassy  to  the  Persian  monarch,  ap- 
peared the  fittest  person  of  all  others  to  under- 
take it.  This  was  a  commission  attended  with 
considerable  danger,  in  consequence  of  the  ho- 
stile and  barbarous  regions  which  intervened  ; 
but  the  patriotism  of  Zeno  induced  him  to  at- 
tempt it  without  hesitation.  Having  landed  in 
Caramania,  he  made  his  way,  through  very  se- 
rious obstacles,  to  the  Persian  court.  He  was  re- 
ceived with  overflowing  joy  and  kindness  by  the 
monarch ;  but  on  mentioning  to  the  attendants 
his  wish  to  see  his  aunt  the  empress,  the  utmost 
horror  was  at  first  expressed  at  such  an  idea.  It 
was  stated,  that  once  to  allow  her  face  to  be  seen 
by  him,  would  be  considered  an  entire  breach  of 


ZENO. 


conjugal  faith.  The  king,  however,  on  being  made 
acquainted  with  the  ambassador's  request,  agreed, 
from  respect  to  the  republic,  and  to  his  own  re- 
lationship, that  he  should  have  an  audience.  The 
queen  received  him  with  every  mark  of  joy  and 
kindness,  inquired  for  all  her  relations  at  Venice, 
and  on  his  rising  to  depart,  insisted  upon  his  tak- 
ing up  his  residence  within  the  palace.  This  in- 
timacy was  so  far  from  giving  any  offence  to 
Uzum-cassan,  that  he  entirely  shared  it.  Zeno 
had  free  access  to  their  most  retired  apartments, 
even  while  they  were  together  in  bed.  The  queen, 
it  is  said,  was  the  most  religious  of  women,  and 
though  at  the  head  of  this  Mussulman  court,  did 
not  at  all  abate  her  attachment  to  the  Christian 
religion.  What  is  singular,  this  strenuous  differ- 
ence of  belief  in  no  degree  affected  the  harmony  of 
the  royal  pair.  It  only  made  the  queen  feel  thus 
an  additional  motive,  zealously  to  second  all  the 
views  of  Zeno  against  the  Turkish  power.  Uzum- 
cassan  was  by  no  means  forward  to  engage  in 
this  contest  j  but  their  continual  solicitations, 
joined  to  some  insults  which  his  vassals  had  re- 
ceived from  the  Ottoman  Porte,  at  length  deter- 
mined him  to  try  the  fate  of  war.  After  a  tem- 
porary promise  of  success,  however,  his  troops 
sustained  a  signal  overthrow,  and  he  found  his 
victorious  career  for  the  first  time  checked.  Mor- 
tified at  this  disaster,  he  strongly  urged  Zeno  to 


PERSIA. 


repair  to  Europe,  and  endeavour  to  prevail  upon 
its  princes  to  afford  that  powerful  assistance  of 
which  he  had  so  largely  boasted. 

Zeno  could  not  well  decline  this  request,  though 
the  road  was  by  no  means  patent.  He  found 
his  way  to  the  Black  Sea,  and  embarked  in  a 
vessel  for  Caffa.  The  Genoese  captain,  however, 
learning  his  character  and  destination,  formed 
the  treacherous  design  of  delivering  him  up  to 
the  Great  Turk.  Happily  a  Venetian  citizen, 
resident  at  Caffa,  having  learned  this  felonious 
intent,  came  off  in  a  little  boat,  conveyed  away 
Zeno,  and  secreted  him  in  his  own  house.  Our 
ambassador,  however,  having  brought  off  only  his 
person,  found  himself  under  the  most  extreme  want 
of  funds,  either  for  present  subsistence,  or  for  his 
destined  journey.  In  this  extremity,  his  servant 
Martino  earnestly  petitioned  to  be  sold  as  a  slave, 
for  the  supply  of  his  master's  wants ;  and  Zeno 
was  so  far  wrought  upon  by  the  urgency  of  his 
case,  as  to  accept  this  too  generous  offer.  The 
narrator  celebrates  it  as  one  of  the  most  illustri- 
ous examples  of  self-devotion  ever  exhibited  by 
any  one  in  a  servile  condition.  The  Venetian 
senate  esteemed  it  so  highly,  that  they  not  only 
redeemed  Martino,  but  granted  him  a  handsome 
pension  for  life.  Zeno,  thus  provided  with  the 
needful,  set  out  on  his  journey  through  Poland 
and    Hungary.      He  prevailed   on  the  king  of 


ZENO.  9 

Poland,  not  indeed  to  make  war  himself  on  the 
Turks,  but  at  least  to  cease  hostilities  against 
Hungary,  and  thus  leave  that  power  at  liberty, 
if  it  chose,  to  take  arms  against  the  common 
enemy.  News,  however,  soon  arrived,  that 
Uzum-cassan,  tired  of  his  unsuccessful  war,  and 
complaining  that  Christians  "  had  many  pro- 
"  fessions  and  words,  but  few  actions,"  shewed 
no  inclination  to  renew  hostilities.  This  disposi- 
tion was  confirmed  by  some  domestic  incidents, 
in  which  he  was  soon  after  involved.  The  Curds, 
his  enemies,  chose  to  circulate  a  report  of  his 
death,  which  being  conveyed  to  his  son,  com- 
manding in  the  south  of  Persia,  that  prince,  men- 
tioned under  the  odd  name  of  Gurlumameth,  made 
haste  to  occupy  Schiras,  as  the  prelude  to  seizing 
upon  the  whole  of  the  vacant  empire.  Learning 
soon  his  error,  and  finding  his  father  inexorable, 
he  went  over  to  Mahomet,  who  readily  supplied 
him  with  the  means  of  supporting  his  usurped 
claim.  Uzum-cassan  had  then  recourse  to  an 
artifice,  which  has  been  justly  considered  un- 
worthy of  his  high  dignity.  He  feigned,  first 
sickness,  and  then  death ;  whereupon,  at  his 
prompting,  several  of  the  great  lords  wrote  to 
the  prince,  urging  him  to  make  haste  and  take 
possession  of  the  throne.  The  unhappy  and 
ever  too  credulous  Gurlumameth  hesitated  not 
to  obey  the  summons,  but  on  his  arrival  was  in- 


10  PERSIA. 

stantly  thrown  into  prison,  and  soon  after  put  to 
death. 

Even  before  the  departure  of  Zeno,  the  States 
of  Venice  had  already  sent  out  another  ambassa- 
dor. JosAPHAT  Barbaro,  who  had  performed  a 
journey  to  the  Crimea,  and  several  parts  of  Mus- 
covy and  Tartary,  was  selected  as  one  accustom- 
ed "  to  endure  and  deal  with  barbarous  men," 
for  the  mission  to  Persia.  He  landed  at  Curcho 
(Curco)  in  Caramania,  whence  passing  through 
Tarsus  and  Adana,  he  directed  his  route  to 
the  Euphrates.  He  notices  nothing  remarkable 
till  he  crossed  that  river  and  arrived  at  Orfa. 
His  next  stage  was  Merdin,  which  appeared  to 
him  the  most  extraordinary  city  in  the  world  for 
situation.  It  is  ascended  by  a  stair  cut  in  the 
rock,  more  than  a  mile  high,  at  the  top  of  which 
is  the  gate  j  but  there  is  no  wall,  except  the 
walls  of  the  houses,  the  defence  of  the  place 
being  trusted  solely  to  its  inaccessible  site.  The 
Turks  hyperbolically  assert,  that  the  inhabitants 
never  see  a  bird  flying  above  them.  It  contains 
three  hundred  houses,  and  several  manufactures 
of  silk  and  cotton.  Barbaro  saw  here  with  sur- 
prise a  personage  entirely  characteristic  of  Asiatic 
manners.  As  he  sat  in  the  caravansera,  a  man, 
naked,  shaven  all  over,  and  covered  with  goat- 
skin, entered,  and  seating  himself  on  the   floor 


BARBARO.  11 

beside  him,  opened  a  little  book  and  began 
to  read.  Soon  after  he  drew  nearer  and  asked 
our  traveller  who  he  was  ;  on  being  told  "  a 
"  stranger ;"  he  replied,  "  I  too  am  a  stranger, 
**  and  we  are  all  strangers  in  this  world."  He 
said  he  had  wandered  for  many  years  naked 
over  the  world,  without  being  able  to  find  any 
thing  that  pleased  him  ;  and  he  had  now  thought 
of  abandoning  it  altogether.  Then  after  exhort- 
ing his  auditor  to  live  well  and  moderately,  and 
to  despise  the  world,  he  took  his  departure. 

After  some  days*  travelling  Barbaro  came  to 
a  town  which  he  calls  Assanchiph,  all  the  rocks 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  are  excavated  so 
as  to  form  human  habitations.  The  streets  are 
led  along  the  side  of  high  steeps,  so  that  the 
waggons  and  people  appear  to  be  moving  in  the 
air.  He  soon  after  began  to  pass  the  highest 
part  of  the  mountains  of  Curdistan,  inhabited 
by  bands  of  fierce  and  desperate  robbers.  The 
mission  fatally  experienced  their  prowess,  being 
attacked  by  a  band  at  the  top  of  a  lofty  moun- 
tain. What  prowess  the  rest  of  the  party  might 
display  is  not  stated  ;  but  our  author's  efforts 
were  vigorously  and  exclusively  directed  to  the 
safety  of  his  own  person.  He  spurred  his  horse 
with  such  fury,  as  soon  left  both  friends  and  foes 
at  a  distance.  Two  of  his  companions  afterwards 
came  up,  who  told  the  sad  tale  of  disaster ;  that 


12  PERSIA. 

the  Persian  ambassador  and  his  own  secretary- 
had  been  killed,  they  themselves  severely  wound- 
ed, and  all  their  effects  taken.  It  is  not  said 
that  they  ventured  any  criticism  on  the  speed 
with  which  he  had  carried  himself  off  from  the 
scene  of  action.  After  passing  the  mountains, 
and  approaching  the  capital,  he  conceived  him- 
self in  safety,  when  he  was  met  by  a  band  of 
Turcomans,  who  inquired  whether  he  was  des- 
tined. Being  told  that  he  was  conveying  a 
letter  to  the  king,  the  leader  demanded  to  see  it. 
Our  author  assures  us,  that  it  was  in  the  mildest 
possible  manner  that  he  represented  the  disre- 
spect which  would  be  shewn  to  the  king,  by  mak- 
ing such  an  exhibition  of  his  letter.  The  Turco- 
man replied  only  by  raising  his  fist,  and  aiming  at 
the  jaws  of  Barbaro  so  furious  a  blow,  that  the 
pain  was  felt  for  four  months  after.  They  beat 
also  his  interpreter,  and  left  them,  he  says,  very 
ill  content,  but  without  any  farther  injury. 

Having  reached  Tauris,  where  Uzum-cassan  re- 
sided, and  announced  his  arrival,  an  immediate 
message  came  desiring  to  see  him.  No  one  could 
be  worse  equipped  for  such  an  interview,  since  all 
the  attire  he  had  left  did  not  amount  to  the  value 
of  two  ducats.  Having  no  means,  however,  of 
procuring  any  more  suitable  vestments,  he  went 
in  this  humble  guise.  He  was  ushered  through 
several  large  courts  into  a  garden,  in  the  midst 


BARBARO.  IS 

of  which  was  a  lodge,  where  his  majesty  was  seat- 
ed on  cushions  of  gold  brocade,  with  a  fountain 
playing  before  him.  He  received  the  ambassa- 
dor in  the  most  polite  manner,  told  him  he  knew 
of  the  sad  disaster,  and  desired  that  he  would 
draw  out  a  complete  list  of  all  the  articles  robbed 
from  him,  which  would  be  made  good.  He  was 
afterwards  admitted  to  a  more  formal  interview, 
and  was  taken  to  see  the  wolf  fights  at  the  Mai- 
dan.  But  the  exhibition  which  most  gratified 
him  was  that  of  the  presents  just  brought  by  an 
Indian  ambassador.  They  included  a  great  shew 
of  rare  animals,  particularly  lions  of  a  peculiar 
species,  which  seem  rather  to  be  Bengal  tigers, 
and  the  zirnapha  or  giraffe  (camelopard).  He 
was  still  more  dazzled  by  the  display  of  jewels, 
which  appear  to  have  been  very  numerous  and 
valuable.  Pre-eminent  among  them  was  a  ba- 
lass  ruby,  weighing  two  ounces  and  a  half, 
which  the  monarch  holding  up  to  Barbaro, 
asked  if  he  had  ever  seen  its  equal,  and  at  what 
price  he  would  value  it.  The  ambassador  re- 
plied, that  it  appeared  to  him  indeed  without  a 
paragon,  and  to  be  estimated  not  in  gold,  but  in 
cities.  Pleased  with  the  admiration  which  these 
sights  inspired,  the  monarch  made  a  full  display 
of  all  his  glittering  treasures  and  possessions ;  his 
immense  wardrobe,  and  the  large  armouries  filled 
with  gold  and  silver  ornaments  and  vestments,  to 


14  PERSIA. 

be  distributed  as  prizes  at  solemn  festivals.  Bar- 
baro  was  then  entertained  by  the  exhibition  first 
of  female  dancers,  and  afterwards  of  male  wrest- 
lers, who  carried  on  their  exercise  with  such 
force  and  fury,  that  death  was  often  the  lot  of 
the  vanquished.  One  man  of  gigantic  size  and 
muscular  strength,  after  having  bared  his  limbs 
for  the  game,  was  excused  when  he  stated  the 
number  to  whom  his  encounter  had  proved  fatal. 
These  amusements  were  interrupted  by  the 
intelligence  which  the  king  received  of  the  oc- 
cupation of  Schiras  by  his  son,  in  the  manner 
and  on  the  grounds  already  stated.  He  im- 
mediately set  his  army  in  motion  upon  that  city, 
marching  at  the  rate  of  forty  miles  a-day.  Our 
author  declares,  that  in  this  immensely  rapid 
march  the  troops  were  accompanied  by  all  their 
families,  women,  children,  and  infants  in  the 
cradle ;  yet  it  was  performed  in  the  greatest 
pomp,  and  amid  an  uninterrupted  supply  of  all 
the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  life.  He  declares 
himself  aware  of  the  great  peril  thus  incurred  by 
him  of  losing  all  credit  with  European  readers, 
but  lie  says,  "  I  have  seen  it,  and  I  know  it."  In 
explanation  he  states,  that  the  infants  at  the 
breast  were  placed  in  a  small  cradle  fastened 
over  the  horse*s  shoulder,  while  the  mother  or 
nurse  sat  behind,  and  held  in  her  left  hand  the 
cradle,    and  also  the  reins,  while  the  whip  was 


BARBARO.  15 

fastened  to  the  little  finger  of  the  right  hand.  The 
children  a  little  more  advanced,  were  accommo- 
dated in  baskets,  which,  as  well  as  the  cradles, 
were  worked  and  adorned  in  proportion  to  the 
wealth  of  the  parents.  The  females  wore  a  veil 
of  woven  horse  hair,  which  at  once  concealed 
their  faces,  and  sheltered  them  from  the  sun  and 
dust.  Although  this  army  did  not  consist  of 
above  25,000  fighting  men,  it  was  attended  by 
30,000  camels,  25,000  horses,  20,000  asses,  and 
5000  mules. 

Barbaro  did  not  follow  the  army  far,  but  find- 
ing himself  indisposed,  stopped  at  Sultania.  He 
afterwards  visited  different  parts  of  the  south  of 
Persia,  particularly  Schiras,  and  enlarges  much  on 
its  populousness,  extent,  and  the  vast  trade  of 
which  it  was  the  centre.  He  saw  also  the  re- 
mains of  Persepolis,  called  by  the  natives  Cilmi- 
nar,  or  the  Forty  Columns ;  but  he  does  not  seem 
to  have  any  just  idea  of  the  period  at  which,  or 
the  nation  by  whom  they  were  erected.  Accord- 
ing to  a  constant  tendency  both  of  the  Mahome- 
tans and  of  the  early  travellers,  he  refers  them  to 
a  Jewish  origin.  One  conspicuous  figure,  lean- 
ing on  an  arch,  was  concluded  to  be  Solomon  ; 
while  another  bearing  obvious  marks  of  strength, 
was  supposed  to  be  Samson.  There  was  another 
with  a  mitre  on  its  head,  and  its  hand  raised  in 
such  a  manner,  that  our  traveller  could  not  help 

47 


16  PERSIA. 

fancying  it  the  Pope  in  the  act  of  giving  bene- 
diction. 

After  Barbaro  had  returned  to  the  north  of 
Persia,  and  was  residing  at  Tauris,  Uzum-cassan 
was  taken  ill  and  died.  His  sons  then  began  as 
usual  their  bloody  scramble  for  the  empire.  That 
very  night,  three  of  them  strangled  the  fourth,  and 
divided  the  sovereign  power  among  themselves.  It 
was  not  long  before  the  second  killed  the  eldest, 
and  raised  himself  to  the  throne.  While  such 
deeds  were  going  forward,  Barbaro  was  seized 
with  a  strong  inclination  to  absent  himself.  Hav- 
ing hired  an  Armenian  guide,  he  arrayed  himself 
in  the  poorest  clothes,  and  set  out  in  a  very  hum- 
ble guise  for  Erzerum.  He  reached  it  in  safety, 
and,  after  some  difficulty,  made  his  way  across  to 
Aleppo,  and  thence  to  Venice. 

The  states  of  Venice  were  indefatigable  in 
their  embassies  to  the  Persian  court.  The  next 
was  Ambrogio  Contarini,  who  set  out  in  1473, 
passed  through  Hungary  and  Poland,  then  em- 
barking at  Caffa,  made  his  way  not  without  diffi- 
culty through  Mingrelia  and  Georgia  to  Tauris. 
Here  he  found  every  thing  in  the  most  violent 
commotion  in  consequence  of  the  insurrection  of 
the  young  prince  already  mentioned,  which  the 
king  had  set  out  to  suppress.  In  passing  through 
the   streets   they  heard   the  people   exclaiming. 


CONTARINI.  17 

"  These  are  the  dogs  who  come  to  introduce  a 
"  schism  into  the  Mahometan  faith,  we  ought  to 
"  cut  them  to  pieces.*'  They  reached,  however, 
the  caravansera,  the  director  of  which  received 
them  well,  and  assigned  them  good  quarters ; 
though  he  expressed  the  utmost  astonishment 
how  they  could  have  entered  the  country  at  a 
time  when  the  most  rigorous  orders  had  been 
given  that  no  strangers  whatever  should  be  al- 
lowed admission.  He  found  no  one  who  would 
undertake  to  conduct  him  to  Uzum-cassan,  and 
was  obliged  to  keep  very  close  within  his  cara- 
vansera, as  whenever  he  ventured  out  with  his 
interpreter  to  buy  food,  he  was  saluted  by  the 
people  with  furious  cries,  which  were  expounded 
to  signify,  that  he  ought  by  all  means  to  be  cut 
in  pieces.  He  was  relieved,  however,  by  learn- 
ing the  arrival  of  one  of  the  king's  sons,  whom 
he  calls  Musubey,  from  whom  he  hoped  to  ob- 
tain all  that  he  stood  in  need  of.  He  waited 
upon  him  therefore,  and  presenting  a  piece  of 
camblet,  stated  his  destination  for  the  king  his 
father,  and  requested  protection  and  a  guide. 
The  prince  heard  this  oration  with  the  most 
frigid  indifference,  and  scarcely  deigned  an  an- 
swer, so  that  Contarini  had  nothing  left  but  to 
return  home  exactly  as  he  had  gone.  Matters 
soon  became  worse ;  he  learned  that  the  prince 
was  extorting  money  by  all  means  from  every 

VOL.  III.  B 


18  PERSIA. 

quarter,   in   consequence  of  which  all  the  mer- 
chants liad  shut  theii*  shops  to  evade  his  obser. 
vation.      Under  these  circumstances,   the  cara- 
vansera  appeared  much  too  conspicuous  a  sta- 
tion, and  he  was  happy  to  thrust  himself  into  the 
corner  of  an  Armenian  convent,  out  of  which  he 
never  durst  shew  his  head.     Thus  he  remained 
for  a  long  time  in  heavy  durance,  till  he  learned 
that  a  great  Persian  lord  named  Chadi  Laicher, 
who  had  been  sent  ambassador  to  Turkey,  was 
now  returning  to  Uzum-cassan  at  Ispahan.     He 
found  means  to  be  introduced  to  him,  stated  the 
situation  in  which  he  stood,  and  petitioned  to  be 
allowed  to  proceed  in  his  train.     This  address 
being  accompanied  with  suitable  presents,   was 
most  graciously  received,   the  request  granted, 
and  notice  being  given  of  his  period  of  depar- 
ture, Contarini  found  himself  safely  on  the  way 
to  Ispahan.     The  country  between   Tauris  and 
that  city,    was   in  general  arid,   and  the  water 
often  salt,  but  the  fruits  excellent.     Ispahan  was 
not  yet  the  imperial  city  of  Abbas.     No  expres- 
sions are  used  to  indicate  any  extraordinary  mag- 
nitude ;  and  he  observes,  that  it  bore  marks  of 
the  ravages  of  war,  yet  that  it  was  situated  in  a 
fine   and   fertile   country.      He   found  here   his 
countryman  Barbaro,  and  was  well  received  by 
the  king.     The  court  then  proceeding  to  Tauris, 
he  returned  with  it  thither.     Soon  after  his  ar- 


CONTARINI ALESSANDRI.  19 

rival  at  Tauris,  the  king  made  the  proposal  that 
Contarini  should  return  to  Europe,  and  inform 
the  Christian  states  how  affairs  stood  in  Persia, 
while  Barbaro  should  remain.  Our  ambassador 
expressed  much  mortification  at  this  arrange- 
ment, and  reluctance  to  concur  in  it,  so  that 
Uzum-cassan  was  at  last  obliged  to  state  his  posi- 
tive will  and  command  to  that  effect.  Contarini 
being  then  assured  that  there  remained  no  fur- 
ther alternative,  agreed  with  the  best  possible 
grace,  and  an  amicable  parting  took  place.  He 
proposed  at  first  to  return  by  the  way  he  had 
come,  but  was  led  by  circumstances  to  cross  the 
Caspian  to  Astrakhan,  where  he  made  his  way 
home  through  Tartary,  Russia,  and  Poland. 

The  condition  of  Persia  at  a  subsequent  period, 
under  the  reign  of  Shah  Thamas,  second  succes- 
sor to  Uzum-cassan,  is  illustrated  in  a  report 
made  to  the  Senate  of  Venice  in  1575  by  their 
agent  Vicenze  Alessandri,  who  had  resided  for 
some  years  in  Persia.  The  manuscript  has  found 
its  way  into  the  British  Museum.  Ismael,  he 
says,  the  father  of  the  present  monarch,  after 
having  sworn  fidelity  to  the  son  of  Uzum-cassan's 
daughter,  obtained  the  character  of  a  saint ;  then, 
**  with  little  fear  of  God,  cut  off  the  said  son's 
•'  head,"  and  seized  the  kingdom.  His  adminis- 
tration, however,  was  vigorous  ;  he  humbled  the 


'iO  PERSIA. 

power  of  the  Turks,  and  preserved  inteinal  tran- 
quillity. His  son,  Shah  Thamas,  was  then  seventy- 
four  years  old,  of  which  he  had  reigned  twenty- 
three.  He  exhibited  all  the  vices  of  a  weak  and 
tyrannical  despotism.  He  had  not  quitted  the 
palace  for  ten  years,  and  thus  entirely  neglected 
the  duty,  always  considered  incumbent  upon  an> 
eastern  monarch,  of  administering  justice  in  pub- 
lic. The  people  murmured  loudly  ;  but  when 
they  were  heard  crying  day  and  night  at  the 
palace  gate,  a  message  was  sent  out,  that  they 
should  go  to  the  judges  appointed  for  the  pur- 
pose ;  never  considering,  says  the  writer,  that  it 
was  against  himself  and  his  ministers  that  the 
cries  were  raised.  A  merchant  having  raised  a 
prosecution  against  some  persons  who  had  stolen 
cloths  from  him,  the  judge  dismissed  both  plain- 
tiff and  culprits,  and  kept  the  cloths  to  himself. 
At  court  the  business  was  entirely  hushed  by 
presents  to  a  few  of  the  principal  lords.  The 
unfortunate  owner  got  himself  mounted  on  one 
of  the  palace  towers,  where  he  was  within  hear- 
ing of  the  royal  ear,  and  continued  crying  day 
and  nighty  what  the  king  was  doing,  and  why  he 
paid  no  regard  to  the  wrongs  of  his  subjects? 
The  only  result,  however,  was  to  be  bastinadoed, 
and  made  to  leap  about  by  stones  thrown  at  him. 
At  Tauris,  the  capital,  a  band  of  robbers  broke 
into  the  repositories  of  a  principal  merchant,  and 


ALESSAXDRI.  2'1 

carried  off  GOOO  scudi,  "  besides  killing  liim." 
Some  days  after  they  broke  into  the  house  of  an 
Armenian  merchant,  and  carried  off  4000  pieces 
of  silk,  which  were  pubhcly  sold  in  the  palace. 
Both  were  treated  by  the  king  as  matters  of 
perfect  indifference.  Another  merchant  having 
been  handsomely  feasted  by  some  Curzi,  or  royal 
guards,  was  immediately  after  robbed  of  a  large 
sum  by  persons  whom  he  believed  to  be  in 
the  employ  of  these  his  courteous  entertainers. 
By  friends  and  presents  he  found  access  to  the 
king,  and  earnestly  entreated  that  the  Curzi 
should  be  imprisoned  and  examined.  The  king 
expressed  his  entire  concurrence,  provided  the 
merchant  would  accede  to  the  condition,  that  in 
the  event  of  not  being  able  to  prove  his  allega- 
tions, his  head  should  be  cut  off.  The  merchant 
did  not  think  it  expedient  to  embark  in  a  contest 
liable  to  such  a  termination.  A  few  days  after, 
however,  he  obtained  certain  information  on  the 
subject ;  and  having  by  a  new  present  of  four 
hundred  ducats  gained  fresh  access  to  the  king, 
the  money  was  found  in  the  possession  of  the 
Curzi.  The  king  then,  imitating  the  example  of 
his  judge,  graciously  ordered  that  it  should  be 
deposited  in  his  own  treasury. 

Amid  all  these  irregular  doings  of  this  illus- 
trious person,  the  author  describes  him  to  be 
venerated  by  his  subjects  rather  as  a  god  than 


22  PERSIA. 

a  king.  In  disease  they  invoked  him  oftener 
than  either  Ali  or  Mahomet,  vowing,  in  case  of 
recovery,  to  make  a  handsome  present,  at  least 
to  kiss  the  palace  gate.  Happy  was  the  house 
which  contained  the  least  scrap  of  garment  worn 
by  him,  or  a  drop  of  dirty  water  in  which  his 
hands  or  feet  had  been  washed.  These  precious 
relics  were  carried  to  the  remotest  extremities  of 
the  empire,  to  be  used  as  remedies  against  every 
disease.  He  was  even  supposed,  like  Ali,  to  have 
the  power  of  raising  the  dead.  This  awful  reve- 
rence, however,  had  marvellously  declined  in 
Tauris,  the  capital,  and  place  of  his  usual  resi- 
dence. This  city  was  almost  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  two  furious  factions,  of  whom  the  victo- 
rious one  would  not  hesitate  to  go  to  court  and 
massacre  all  the  ministers,  and  the  king  himself^ 
if  he  attempted  to  resist  them.  To  avoid  those 
unpleasant  occurrences,  he  had  begun  to  prefer 
the  abode  of  Casbin. 

The  trade  of  northern  Persia  is  described  by 
Alessandri  as  very  considerable,  but  carried  on 
entirely  by  the  way  of  Aleppo  and  Constantino- 
ple. The  expenses,  he  says,  are  very  great,  and 
the  profits  very  small. .  During  his  stay,  an  Eng- 
lish merchant,  whom  he  calls  Signor  Tommaro 
of  London,  (doubtless  one  of  the  company  of 
merchant  adventurers,  probably  Alcocke),  had 
resided  for  some  years  at  Tauris.     He  represents 


SHERLEY.  23 

him  to  have  met  with  very  little  success,  and  to 
have  been  repeatedly  in  danger  of  being  plun- 
dered of  his  propert}^  He  had  therefore  left 
Tauris,  and  was  not  likely  to  return. 

We  now  approach  the  most  brilliant  period  of 
the  Persian  annals,  formed  by  the  reign  of  Shah 
Abbas  the  Great.  A  second  son,  he,  according 
to  the  custom  of  the  country,  waded  to  the  throne 
through  the  blood  of  his  kindred  ;  but  he  after- 
wards maintained  such  profound  domestic  tran- 
quillity, and  extended  so  far  the  frontier  of  the 
empire,  as  to  render  his  own  reign  and  that  of  his 
successors  a  truly  fortunate  period  of  Persian  his- 
tory. No  Europeans  resided  so  long,  or  enjoyed 
«o  high  confidence  at  this  eastern  court,  as  the 
two  brothers  Sir  Antony  and  Sir  Robert  Sherley. 
Purchas  sounds  their  praises  in  a  truly  lofty  key. 
According  to  him,  they  were  the  hinge  on  which 
the  affairs  of  Persia  and  of  the  whole  East  turned. 
He  represents  the  Shah  as  destitute,  without 
them,  of  musketry  and  artillery ;  and  exultingly 
proclaims,  that  if  two  millions  of  infidels  had  cut 
each  others*  throats,  the  Christian  world  owed 
this  great  benefit  solely  to  these  two  brothers.  I 
must  do  Sir  Antony  the  justice  to  say,  that,  in 
his  own  narrative,  though  written  with  consider- 
able self-complacency,  no  pretension  is  made  to 
these  mighty  achievements.     He  states  himself 


2't  PERSIA. 

to  have  been  the  particular  friend  and  protege 
of  the  Earl  of  Essex,  **  whom  he  had  made  the 
**  pattern  of  his  civil  life.'*     At  his  advice  he  un- 
dertook the  voyage  to  Persia,  hoping  thereby,  he 
says,  to  promote  the  glory  of  God  ;  or  if  not,  even 
with  regard  to  the  humble  concerns  of  trade,  "  it 
"  might  prove  a  subject  to  extract  great  and  good 
"  matter  out  of.**  He  embarked  in  a  Venetian  ves- 
sel bound  to  Aleppo ;  but  on  the -passage  to  Zante 
he  received  notice  of  a  passenger  who  **  used  most 
"  scandalous  speeches  of  her  Majesty;'*  where- 
upon, "  not  only  moved  with  the  dutiful  zeal 
"  which  a  subject  oweth  to  his  prince,  but  even 
"  with  that  respect  which  every  gentleman  oweth 
"  to  a  lady,**  he  directed  his  people  to  bestow  on 
him  "  a  fit  reward.**     What  the  nature  of  this 
recompense  might  be,  is  not  stated ;  but  "  divers 
"  principal  merchants**  approved  it  highly,  and 
judged  it  scarcely  adequate  to  "  the  sceleratnesse 
"  of  the  fact.**     However,  "  the  shippe  was  all 
"  in  an  uprore,**  and  notice  was  given  at  Zante, 
that  they  could  have  nothing  more  to  do  with 
him.     He  made  his  way  therefore  with  difficulty 
to  Cyprus,  and  thence  to  Aleppo.     He  found 
Syria   *'  a  goodly  country,*'  but  uncultivated; 
**  here  and  there  as  it  were  sprinkled  with  miser- 
**  able  inhabitors,  which  in  their  fashion  shewed 
"  the  necessity  they  had  to  live,  rather  than  any 
"  pleasure  iu  living.**     The  English  merchants 


SIIERLET.  25 

"  were  the  only  gentlemen,  or  the  most  benigne 
**  gentlemen  that  ever  I  met  withall  ;"  so  that 
though  one  Hugo  dePotso  attempted  all  the  injury 
*'  which  an  ill  mind  and  a  great  purse*'  could  do, 
he  effected  his  passage  safely  across  the  desert. 
He  passed  a  Bedouin  encampment,  and  was  intro- 
duced to  "  Aborisci,  king  of  those  Arabics,  a  poore 
"  king,  with  ten  or  twelve  thousand  beggerly  sub- 
**  jects,  living  in  tents  of  blacke  haire  cloth."  He 
was  honestly  and  civilly  treated,  and  "  the  king 
*'  gave  us  good  words,  without  any  kind  of  bar- 
*•  barous  wondring." 

At  Bagdad  Sir  Antony,  wishing  to  pass  as  a 
merchant,  converted  all  his  property  into  jewels, 
but  was  much  dismayed  when  all  these  were 
"  stayed  by  the  Bassa.**  This  reduced  him  to  a 
very  serious  dilemma,  as  he  had  nothing  left  to 
maintain  himself,  a  brother,  "  whose  affection  to 
*•  mee  had  onely  led  him  to  that  disaster,'*  and 
twenty-five  other  followers,  mostly  gentlemen, 
"  onely  carried  with  their  loves  to  mee,"  all  of 
whom  were  in  the  power  of  Turks,  a  race  no- 
toriously cruel,  and  "  addicted  to  get  by  all  means, 
"  just  or  unjust."  This  great  train  and  wealth, 
moreover,  were  soon  found  to  have  rendered  them 
objects  of  serious  suspicion.  A  Florentine  mer- 
chant assured  Sherley,  that  "  there  was  a  great 
"  muttering  amongst  divers  great  men  there,  what 
**  I  was,  and  what  my  designs  might  be."     He 


S6  PERSIA. 

was  at  first  very  distrustful  of  this  Florentine,  but 
soon  found  him  a  most  generous  friend,  who  pro- 
cured him  a  place  in  a  Persian  caravan,  and  sup- 
plied him  with  money  sufficient  not  only  for  his 
wants,  but  to  make  a  splendid  appearance  before 
Shah  Abbas.  He  appears  to  have  passed  up  the 
rivers  and  through  Curdistan,  and  though  he  pro- 
fesses great  resignation  to  the  divine  will,  cannot 
help  adding,  **  Yet  my  frailty  gave  me  a  continual 
**  terrour  during  those  thirty  daies  in  which  we 
"  wandered  with  that  company  of  blind  pilgrimes 
"*'  through  the  deserts."  He  passed  the  site  of 
Ninive,  but  found  "  not  one  stone  standing  which 
"  may  give  the  memory  of  the  being  of  a  towne. 
**  One  English  mile  from  it  is  a  place  called  Mosul, 
**  a  small  thing,  rather  to  be  a  witnesse  of  the 
**  other's  mightinesse  and  God's  judgment,  than 
*'  of  any  fashion  of  magnificency  in  itself."  After 
passing  *'  a  great  tract  of  good  and  ill  countries,*' 
he  arrived  at  Casbin,  then  the  imperial  residence. 
Shah  Abbas  was  absent  on  a  military  expedi- 
tion ;  but  he  was  well  received  by  the  governor. 
Shortly  after  the  Shah  arrived  victorious  over  his 
enemies,  and  made  his  triumphal  entry  into  Cas- 
bin. This  auspicious  moment  was  seized  by 
Sherley  to  present  himself.  He  and  his  party 
coming  up  in  the  midst  of  the  procession,  alight- 
ed and  kissed  the  monarch's  stirrup.  "  My  speech 
***  was  short  unto  him,  the  time  being  fit  for  no 


SHERLEY.  ^7 

"  other:  That  the  fame  of  his  royall  vertues  had 
"  brought  me  from  a  farre  countrey,  to  be  a  pre- 
"  sent  spectator  of  them  ;  if  there  were  any  thing 
"  of  worth  in  mee,  I  presented  it,  with  myself,  to 
"  his  majesty's  service."  The  king  replied  most 
graciously,  that  he  had  done  him  infinite  honour, 
that  the  country  was  at  his  service,  and  only 
doubted  if  he  would  find  any  thing  in  himself 
answerable  to  so  great  a  report.  Next  morning 
Sherley  sent  a  present,  and  was  admitted  to  an 
interview.  Abbas,  he  says,  put  no  question  about 
*'  our  apparel,  building,  beauty  of  our  women, 
"  and  such  vanities,"  but  directed  his  inquiries 
solely  to  subjects  connected  with  the  military  art. 
On  being  told  that  Sherley  had  at  home  some 
models  of  fortifications,  "  left  in  the  spoile  made 
**  of  me  at  Babylon,"  he  went  home  and  spent 
several  hours  in  carefully  perusing  them. 

Sherley  now  spent  a  series  of  years  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Shah.  He  seems  to  have  well  under- 
stood courts,  for  he  says,  *'  So  much  I  know,  that 
**  in  handling  with  princes'  especial  affairs,  I  ought 
*'  not  so  much  to  repose  myself  upon  the  good 
**  and  just  property  of  my  proposition,  as  upon 
"  the  direct  knowledge  of  the  nature  of  the 
**  prince."  He  does  not,  however,  give  so  full 
an  account  of  Abbas  as  might  have  been  expect- 
ed. He  draws  a  character  entirely  and  vaguely 
panegyrical,   and  the  transactions   narrated   are 


28  PERSIA, 

only  those  public  ones  which  belong  to  general  his- 
tory. I  have  already  observed,  that  he  makes  no 
pretensions  to  the  immense  influence  and  servi- 
ces which  are  imputed  to  him  by  Purchas.  Even 
the  missions  with  which  he  was  entrusted  to  Euro- 
pean powers,  were  conferred  on  his  own  earnest 
advice  and  urgency,  the  king  continuing  long  to 
doubt  their  expediency,  and  to  consider  them  even 
as  derogatory  to  his  dignity.  It  was  in  one  of 
these  missions  that  Sir  Antony  wrote  his  narra- 
tive, which  does  not  come  down  to  the  time  of 
his  finally  leaving  Persia. 

A  more  particular  account  is  given  of  Shah 
Abbas  by  John  Cartwright,  who  visited  Persia 
at  the  same  time  with  Sherley.  The  following 
is  the  description  given  by  him  ;  "  The  Prince 
**  is  very  absolute  both  in  perfection  of  his  bodie 
"  and  his  minde ;  of  an  indifferent  stature,  nei- 
"  ther  too  high  nor  too  low.  His  countenance 
"  very  sterna,  his  eyes  fierce  and  piercing,  his 
"  colour  swarffie,  his  moustachees  on  his  upper 
"  lip  long,  with  his  beard  cut  close  to  his  chinne, 
**  expressing  his  martial  disposition  and  inexora- 
**  ble  nature,  that  at  the  first  a  man  would  think 
"  to  have  nothing  in  him  but  mischiefeand  cruel- 
"  ty  :  And  yet  he  is  of  nature  courteous,  affable, 
**  easy  to  be  scene  and  spoken  withall.*'  The 
morning  was  spent  chiefly  among  his  horses,  and 
the  forenoon  in  his  armoury.     At  three  he  came 


CAPTURE  OF  ORMUZ.  ^9 

to  the  Meidan,  and  joined  with  his  courtiers  in 
warlike  exercises.  He  is  described  as  very  strict 
in  the  execution  of  justice,  often  sitting  in  person 
for  that  purpose,  and  "  not  sparing  to  hang  up 
"  his  chiefe  Caddi  or  judges,"  in  case  of  notori- 
ous malversation.  *'  I  have  scene  him  many 
"  times  alight  from  his  horse,  merely  to  do  jus- 
"  tice  to  a  poore  bodie.**  In  this  manner,  it  is 
said,  **  the  Persian  empire  hath  flourished  in  sa- 
"  cred  and  redoubted  lawes,  the  people  demean- 
**  ing  themselves  after  the  best  manner  they  can  ; 
"  — armes,  artes,  and  sciences,  doe  wonderfully 
**  prosper." 

The  most  curious  picture  which  I  have  seen  of 
the  character  and  policy  of  Shah  Abbas,  is  given 
by  Don  Garcia  de  Sylva,  in  the  narrative  of  an 
embassy  from  Goa,  then  subject  to  Spain  under 
Philip  III.  It  has  not,  so  far  as  I  know,  been 
printed,  but  is  found  in  manuscript  in  the  British 
Museum.  One  of  the  most  fatal  blows  struck 
against  the  Portuguese  eastern  empire,  was  the 
capture  of  Ormuz  by  a  combined  English  and 
Persian  force.  Purchas  has  preserved  several 
narratives  of  it  by  Pinder,  Wilson,  and  Monoxe, 
English  officers  who  were  present  in  this  memora- 
ble expedition.  In  November  1621,  a  fleet  of 
five  vessels  and  four  pinnaces  was  fitted  out  from 
Swally  roads  to  cruize  against  the  Portuguese. 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  Persian  Gulf  they  receiv- 


30  PERSIA. 

ed  a  proposition  from  Shah  Callibeg,  the  Persian 
commander,  who  was  about  to  undertake  the 
siege  of  Ormuz.  He  invited  them  to  co-operate, 
reminding  them  that  the  enemy  was  theirs  as 
well  as  his,  and  promising  half  the  booty.  After 
due  deliberation  by  Captains  Blithe  and  Weddell 
and  Monoxe,  the  Company's  agents,  it  was  de- 
termined to  accede  to  this  proposition.  They 
sailed  first  to  Kishme,  where  the  Portuguese,  be- 
ing reduced  to  the  last  extremity,  chose  rather  to 
surrender  to  the  English  than  the  Persians.  Un- 
fortunately, one  of  the  few  shots  that  were  fired 
proved  fatal  to  Baffin,  the  celebrated  northern 
navigator,  who  was  struck  by  a  ball  from  the  cas- 
tle, "  wherewith  he  gave  three  leapes,  by  report, 
"  and  died  immediately." 

From  Kishme  the  armament  proceeded  direct 
to  Ormuz,  and  saw  it  for  the  last  time  in  all  its 
glory.  **  It  was  of  great  bignesse,  and  seemed  a 
"  most  famous  thing  to  looke  upon  from  the 
"  ships,  with  steeples  and  towers :  the  castle  was 
"  the  fairest,  largest,  and  strongest,  that  ever  I 
"  saw."  The  Portuguese,  after  a  slight  resis- 
tance, evacuated  the  town,  and  withdrew  into 
the  castle,  whence  it  soon  appeared  that  it  would 
be  no  easy  matter  to  expel  them.  Monoxe 
complains  that  the  Persians  were  ignorant  of 
the  art  of  war,  and  expresses  his  surprise  "  that 
"  one  of  the  wonders  of  our  age,  Shah  Abbas, 


CAPTURE  OF  OIIMUZ.  SI 

*•  should  send  over  an  army  so  weakly  provided." 
They  sprung  mines,  indeed,  and  made  breaches, 
which  appeared  to  the  EngHsh  very  good ;  but 
Callibeg  declined  attempting  them,  and  was  not 
even    provided   with    scaling    ladders   or   other 
means  of  attack  j  so  that  Monoxe  began  to  sus- 
pect,   *'  his   mining   is   for  gold,   not  to  make 
"  breaches,   unless   it   be   breach  of  promises." 
He  murmurs  also,  that  the  Persian  commander 
never  admitted  him  into  his  counsels  when  he 
could  possibly  avoid  it,  and  shewed  very  little 
disposition  to  abide  by  his  engagements.     Mean- 
time certain  accounts   were   received   of   "  the 
"  great  wants  and  weake  estate"  of  the  Portu- 
guese garrison.     They  suffered  chiefly  in  regard 
to    water,    which    was    in    small  quantity  and 
brackish,  while  their  food  was  rice  and  salt  fish, 
"  two  very  good  preparatives  for  a  good  drinke 
*'  if  they  had  it."     They  were  hence  seized  with 
a  violent  flux,  which  carried  off  six  or  eight  in  a 
day,  besides  weakening  the  rest.     It  is  asserted, 
therefore,  that  the  Persian  general  by  a  vigorous 
attack  might  have  carried  the  castle,  but  he  con- 
tinued only  making  new  mines,    "  whereof  he 
"  hath  three  in  hand,  as  if  he  would  blow  up  the 
"  castle  wall  round  about,  before  he  will  make 
"  his  entrie."      At  length  a  breach  being  made 
which  apparently  enlarged  the  first,   an  assault 
was  ordered,  and  the  Persians  rushed  up  at  first 


32  PEUSIA. 

with  the  greatest  fury,  but  they  "  run  their  resa- 
*'  lution  out  of  breath/*  and  were  repulsed  by  a 
handful  of  Portuguese.  He  says  "  they  hang  in 
*'  a  cluster  upon  the  breach,  just  as  a  swarm  of 
"  bees  upon  a  tree  or  bush  that  want  a  hive,  or 
*'  like  a  flocke  of  sheepe  at  a  gappe,  where  none 
**  is  so  hardy  to  enter/*  These  proceedings 
would  have  little  advanced  the  siege,  had  not 
the  internal  distress  of  the  garrison  daily  in- 
creased ;  and  the  Persians  at  length  carried  seve- 
ral of  the  outworks.  Our  narrator  is  then  oblig- 
ed to  own  one  art  in  which  they  are  '*  very  well 
**  seene, — for  I  do  not  thinke  there  is  any  hang- 
"  man  in  all  Germany  that  can  go  beyond  them." 
When  they  have  taken  an  enemy,  "  at  one  blow 
"  off  goeth  his  head  ;**  the  finger  is  then  thrust 
in  at  the  mouth  and  out  at  a  hole  made  in  the 
ear,  "  in  such  sort  that  no  butcher  in  Eastcheap 
**  can  do  it  better.**  They  are  not  less  "  cun- 
"  ning'*  to  flay  off  the  skin,  and  **  stuffe  it  with 
"  straw  like  a  foot-ball.**  These  are  then  carried 
in  triumph  as  trophies  to  their  general.  The  Por- 
tuguese being  at  length  reduced  to  the  last  extre- 
mity, sent  a  message  to  the  English,  earnestly  be- 
seeching that  the  treaty  of  surrender  might  be 
made  with  them,  and  not  with  the  Moors.  The 
English,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  Persian 
general,  acceded  to  a  convention,  according  to 
which  the  Portuguese  were  to  give  up  Ormuz 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  33 

and  all  that  was  in  it,  on  condition  of  a  safe  per- 
sonal conveyance  to  Muscat  or  India.  After  this 
treaty,  two  Persian  deputies  waited  upon  them, 
and,  after  a  long  preamble,  submitted  the  propo- 
sal, that  the  English  should  deliver  the  captain 
and  several  of  the  principal  Portuguese,  whom  it 
would  be  honourable  to  transmit  as  trophies  to 
Shah  Abbas;  "which  vilde  and  dishonourable  mo- 
**  tion  when  I  heard,  I  absented  myself,  hating 
"  my  eares  for  being  guilty  of  the  hearing  of  the 
*'  same.**  The  Portuguese,  therefore,  were  duly 
"  dispeeded  out  of  the  castle,'*  to  the  number 
of  2600,  who  were  in  a  dreadful  state  from 
wounds  and  disease.  Monoxe  does  not  come 
down  to  the  promised  division  of  the  booty,  but 
augurs  ill  as  to  its  fulfilment,  from  the  eagerness 
with  which  he  saw  the  Persians  seizing  the  pro- 
perty, and  "  whole  bales  of  goods,  chests,  and 
"  rupetas,  with  God  knoweth  what  in  them,*' 
conveyed  over  the  walls.  He  inclines  to  think, 
therefore,  that  "  we  shall  be  served  with  what 
"  themselves  please.** 

The  intelligence  of  this  capture  struck  the 
vice-regal  government  at  Goa  with  the  deepest 
dismay.  It  was  determined  to  attempt  recover- 
ing by  negociation  what  they  had  lost  by  arms ; 
and  an  officer  of  distinction,  Don  Garcia  de  Syl- 
va  Figuerroa,  was  sent  to  demand  the  restitution 
of    these    important   possessions.      Don   Garcia 

VOL.  III.  c 


3i  PERSIA.  'i 

landed  at  Bandel,  where  he  was  received  with 
great  demonstrations  of  courtesy  by  the  gover- 
nor, but  was  detained  for  some  days  by  want  of 
horses ;  during  which  time  he  suffered  extremely 
from  the  intensity  of  the  heat.  He  then  reached 
Gombroon,  and  set  out  to  traverse  the  plain  of 
Laristan.  The  land  here  is  dry,  salt,  and,  unless 
in  some  particular  spots,  quite  barren.  Through- 
out all  this  region,  water  is  procured  only  from 
wells.  The  road  lay  through  a  plain  bordered  on 
each  side  by  mountains  composed  of  a  whitish 
earth  without  stone,  and  entirely  destitute,  as 
well  as  the  plains,  of  tree,  bush,  or  shrub.  These 
naked  tracts,  however,  were  covered  with  goats, 
the  largest  and  finest  in  all  Persia  ;  and  forming, 
in  many  villages,  the  sole  wealth  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. In  travelling  by  day  the  heat  was  found 
quite  intolerable,  and  they  were  obliged  to  take 
the  benefit  of  moonlight.  In  approaching  within 
a  league  of  Lara,  the  governor  came  out  and  re- 
quested them  to  delay  their  entrance  till  next 
day,  when  it  might  be  made  in  state,  according 
to  the  wish  of  the  king  and  the  viceroy  of  Schiras. 
Meantime  they  were  copiously  supplied  with 
dates,  grapes,  and  melons.  Next  morning,  about 
half  a  league  from  Lara,  the  governor  appeared 
attended  by  numerous  grandees,  covered  with 
gold,  silver,  and  various  coloured  robes.  They 
were  preceded  by  400  troops,  and  attended  by 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  35 

an  almost  innumerable  crowd  of  spectators ;  to 
maintain  order  among  whom,  a  number  of  porters 
brandished  large  sticks,  which,  though  employed 
with  the  utmost  vigour,  proved  scarcely  sufficient 
to  fulfil  their  purpose.  At  the  same  time  the 
fields  resounded  with  all  the  music  of  Persia, 
producing,  he  says,  "  an  incondite  and  bestial 
"  sound.'*  The  noise  was  tremendous  indeed, 
but  without  the  least  harmony.  The  most  pro- 
minent instrument  was  a  species  of  timbrel,  re- 
sembling a  very  large  sieve,  such  as  he  had  seen 
not  many  years  ago  in  Estremadura,  where  it  must 
have  been  introduced  by  the  Moors, — a  vulgar 
and  barbarous  instrument,  but  delightful  to  Per- 
sian ears,  and  its  presence  indispensable  at  every 
ball  given  through  that  vast  empire.  Lara  is  an 
ancient  city,  nearly  as  large  as  Ormuz,  but  not  so 
handsome.  Being  the  seat,  however,  of  a  consi- 
derable inland  trade,  it  is  well  supplied  with  cara- 
vanseras.  The  bazaar,  built  by  Alaverdi  Khan 
when  sultan  of  Schiras,  appeared  one  of  the  most 
**  sovereign  and  distinguished**  edifices  in  Asia, 
and  fit  to  be  compared  with  the  first  in  Europe. 
It  would  add  lustre  to  any  city,  and  he  could 
not  help  considering  Lara  unworthy  of  such  a 
display  of  magnificence. 

After  leaving  Lara,  the  embassy  passed  still 
between  the  same  ranges  of  mountains  j  but  the 
scene  was  not  so  entirely  naked,  the  road  being 


.36  PERSIA. 

bordered  by  shrubs  and  small  trees,  planted  appa- 
rently by  travellers  for  the  benefit  of  their  shade. 
They  had  now  an  opportunity  of  observing  the 
Turcomans,  with  their  nomadic  habits  and  rude 
appearance,  rather  Scythian  than  Persian.  On 
their  approach  to  Schiras,  the  governor  met  them 
with  a  still  more  numerous  and  splendid  retinue 
than  at  Lara.  The  crowd  was  also  much  larger ; 
but  the  cane  being  used  with  increased  diligence, 
maintained  tolerable  order.  Near  the  gate,  a 
considerable  number  of  veiled  females  on  horse- 
back formed  part  of  the  crowd.  Schiras,  on 
entry,  did  not  answer  the  expectation  which  its 
appearance  had  excited.  The  gate  was  paltry, 
the  streets  narrow  and  ill  kept,  and  many  of  the 
houses  in  ruins.  From  without,  it  was  magnifi- 
cent and  superb ;  within,  poor  and  miserable ;  a 
contrast  very  commonly  presented  by  the  cities 
of  the  East.  This  city  was  an  object  of  enmity  to 
Shah  Abbas,  having  been  the  head-quarters  of  a 
rebel  whom  he  had  reduced  by  cutting  off  the 
water  ;  which  circumstance  had  considerably  im- 
paired its  prosperity.  The  environs  were  truly 
beautiful,  covered  with  the  finest  gardens,  and 
watered  by  innumerable  streams,  natural  and  ar- 
tificial. It  is  compared  to  Valencia,  and  the 
town  to  Cordova. 

Beyond  Schiras,  the  ambassador  came  to  the 
spot  called  Cilminar,  celebrated  for  the  mighty 


GAUCIA  DE  SYLVA.  37 

ruins  which  cover  its  site,  the  remains  of  the  an- 
cient Persepolis.  They  were  diligently  surveyed 
by  our  author,  who  describes  them  with  an  en- 
thusiasm which  perhaps  betrays  him  into  some 
degree  of  exaggeration.  He  dwells  on  the  superb 
range  of  columns,  particularly  those  called  the 
"  forty  minarets,"  the  magnificent  stairs  by  which 
it  is  ascended,  the  vast  interior  square,  430  feet 
by  310,  and  the  huge  pieces  of  marble  without 
any  apparent  juncture.  The  sculptures  were  in- 
numerable ;  and  are  conceived  by  him  to  repre- 
sent the  actions  of  a  race  of  men  prior  to  any  now 
known,  even  to  the  ancient  Babylonians  and  Per- 
sians. Yet,  though  ascending  to  this  vast  anti- 
quity, they  are  so  entire,  that  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  fragments  broken  off,  they  might  seem 
to  have  been  recently  finished.  In  comparing 
these  with  the  monuments  of  other  nations,  he 
observes,  that  the  pyramids  are  mere  artificial 
mountains,  while  the  temples  of  Greece  are  in 
ruins  ;  here  only,  art  and  grandeur  are  united  in 
pristine  perfection.  The  high  polish  of  the  mar- 
ble was  amusingly  shewn  by  a  mastiff^,  who  seeing 
his  own  figure  reflected  on  the  walls,  was  worked 
up  to  fury,  which  was  always  increased  by  the 
view  of  the  corresponding  gestures  in  the  reflect- 
ed image ;  till  the  same  scene  being  repeated 
wherever  they  came,  they  were  at  length  obliged 
to  chain  and  send  him  off. 


38  PERSIA. 

At  Ispahan  the  embassy  were  met  by  the  same 
retinue  and  crowd,  and  were  equally  stunned  by 
the  noise  of  cymbals  and  instruments.      They 
saw  here  a  troop  of  females  mounted  on  horses 
very  finely  caparisoned  ;  their  faces  covered,  but 
their  hair  hanging  down,  richly  ornamented  with 
pearls  and  jewels.     As  they  approached,  clouds 
of  dust  concealed  this  city.     When  they  entered, 
it  appeared  still  more  wretched  and  ruined  than 
Schiras  ;  the  streets  narrow,  irregular,  and  wind- 
ing ;  the  whole  aspect  old,  poor,  and  miserable. 
In  short,   he  indignantly  declares  it  "  a  thing 
"  most  shameful  and  abominable."     From   this 
doom,  however,  were  excepted  the  edifices  erect- 
ed by  Shah  Abbas,   which  were  very  splendid. 
They  consisted  of  an  excellent  caravansera,  con- 
taining complete  accommodation  for  a  great  num- 
ber of  merchants ;  and  a  bazaar  of  vast  extent, 
surrounding  the  caravansera,  and  filled  with  the 
most  precious  commodities.      But  the   greatest 
display  of  magnificence  was  in   the   Meidan  or 
great  square,  on  one  side  of  which  was  built  the 
palace,  resembling  a  tower  with  gilded  virandas. 
On  the  top,  somewhat  retiring,  was  a  square  tur- 
ret most  beautifully  gilded,  whence  the  sultanas, 
at  a  jealousy,  could  command  a  view  of  the  Mei- 
dan,  the   gardens,    and  the  whole  town.      The 
grounds  and  harams  attached  to  the  palace  were 
shut  from  every  eye.     The  gardens  round  Ispa- 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  39 

han  were  fine,  but  could  not  rival  the  extent  and 
beauty  of  those  of  Schiras.  Shah  Abbas  had  also 
built  a  very  fine  new  mosque,  the  minaret  of  which 
was  as  high  as  the  steeple  of  Seville,  the  highest 
in  Spain.  When  the  embassy  came  in  front  of 
the  palace,  they  were  desired  to  fall  prostrate ; 
but  this  appearing  to  them  beneath  their  dignity, 
they  refused  to  do  more  than  take  off  their  hats, 
while  the  Persian  lords  dismounted,  and  threw 
themselves  on  the  ground. 

The  next  city  which  the  embassy  visited  was 
Caxem  (Cashan),  which  they  found  comparative- 
ly small,  but  pleasant,  and  the  inhabitants  mild 
and  peaceable.  They  were  here  present  at  a  bull 
fight,  to  witness  which  the  whole  inhabitants  of 
the  town,  male  and  female,  were  collected.  All 
were  gay  and  animated,  except  the  owners  of  the 
bulls,  on  whose  countenances  care  sat  painted  ; 
which  was  changed,  however,  into  triumph,  when 
their  bulls  had  gained  a  victory.  As  the  fight 
proceeded,  the  passions  of  the  multitude  warmed  ; 
they  raised  vehement  cries,  which  came  at  length 
to  blows  and  bloodshed.  The  females  did  not 
take  any  concern  in  the  blows ;  but  no  effort 
which  the  human  voice  could  make  was  by  them 
omitted.  Stunned  with  this  uproar,  the  ambas- 
sador offered  them  money  to  go  home  quietly ; 
but  this  offer  being  conceived  an  insult,  turned 
their  indignation  upon  him,   and  only  added  a 


40  PERSIA. 

new  source  of  tumult,  so  that  he  was  glad  to  make 
off  with  all  speed.  These  bull  fights  prevail  over 
all  Persia ;  but  Cashan  is  the  place  where  they 
excite  the  greatest  enthusiasm,  and  are  carried 
to  the  greatest  height. 

The  next  great  city  to  which  the  embassy  came 
was  Casbin,  then  the  royal  residence.  Their  en- 
trance here  was  distinguished  by  greater  honours 
than  at  any  of  the  other  cities.  They  were  met 
by  twelve  hundred  horsemen  most  splendidly  at- 
tired and  accoutred,  and  whose  armour  glittered 
with  gold  and  jewels.  There  was  no  crowd  how- 
ever, no  females ;  all  under  pain  of  death  were 
prohibited  to  come  out.  They  were  handsomely 
accommodated  in  a  house  close  to  the  great 
mosque ;  but  the  ambassador,  impatient  for  his 
introduction  at  court,  was  disappointed  on  being 
told  that  it  could  not  take  place  for  two  days. 
On  the  appointed  morning  six  hundred  men  ap- 
peared as  bearers  of  the  presents,  who,  it  was 
found,  expected  to  get  each  something  to  carry. 
This  rather  discomposed  the  embassy  ;  for  though 
there  was  enough  to  divide  among  the  whole,  the 
articles,  frittered  into  so  many  minute  portions, 
did  not  make  the  same  imposing  appearance  as  in 
a  collected  state.  On  reaching  the  palace,  they 
were  detained  for  half  an  hour  at  the  gate.  In- 
dignant, less  at  the  hardship  than  at  the  "  pride 
*•  of  these  barbarous  orientals,'*  Don  Garcia  an- 


GARCIA  DE  SIXVA.  41 

nounced  his  determination  to  return  home  unless 
immediate  admission  was  obtained.  Hereupon 
he  soon  gained  permission  to  enter  the  royal  gar- 
dens, and  proceeded  through  an  avenue  of  large 
and  beautiful  trees  of  considerable  dimensions,  to 
a  lake  ;  in  the  midst  was  a  summer-house,  open  on 
all  sides,  but  covered  with  a  cupola,  supported 
by  four  columns.  The  approach  was  by  a  small 
bridge,  of  which  they  had  passed  two-thirds  when 
the  train  suddenly  stopped,  and  the  interpreter 
called  out  "  the  King."  Shah  Abbas  in  fact 
appeared,  coming  out  alone  from  the  summer- 
house.  The  first  view  of  this  prince  subverted 
every  idea  which  Don  Garcia  had  formed  respec- 
ting the  court  of  this  great  potentate.  Accus- 
tomed to  Spanish  pomp  and  parade,  exhibited  on 
an  augmented  scale  in  its  viceregal  government 
at  Goa,  he  seems  to  have  been  unable  to  conceive 
a  court  in  which  its  display  was  not  considered  as 
the  first  privilege  of  royalty.  Nothing  therefore 
could  be  more  remote  from  his  ideas,  than  one 
where  all  parade  seems  to  have  been  held  in  con- 
tempt, and  nothing  but  real  business  regarded. 
Instead  of  an  oriental  pageant,  blazing  with  gold 
and  gems,  he  saw  a  little  man,  drest  in  a  paltry 
robe,  such  as  was  worn  by  his  meanest  subjects, 
and  a  bonnet  still  shabbier  than  the  robe.  His 
face,  not  naturally  swarthy,  was  tanned  by  con- 
tinual exposure  to  the  air ;  his  hands  were  rough. 


42  PERSIA. 

coarse,  and  black,  like  those  of  the  rudest  pea- 
sant, whom  indeed  he  in  every  respect  resembled. 
The  ambassador  however  dropped  on  his  knees, 
put  his  hand  to  his  mouth  and  then  to  his  sleeve. 
The  king  received  him  graciously,  asked  for  the 
king  of  Spain,  and  caused  him  to  be  ushered  into 
the  apartment,  where  he  promised  soon  to  join 
him.  Don  Garcia  was  led  in  by  two  Persian  lords, 
the  viceroys  of  Ghilan  and  Curdistan,  who  squat- 
ted themselves  on  their  hams  upon  each  side, 
whereupon  he  placed  himself  between  them  in 
the  same  position,  though  his  sword  and  spear 
rendered  it  rather  incommodious.  As  he  sat,  a 
person  entered  in  a  plain  robe,  without  scimitar 
or  any  ensign  of  dignity.  Don  Garcia  deemed 
him  therefore  unworthy  of  notice,  till  some  one 
said,  "  The  ambassador  of  Room,"  (the  name  by 
which  the  Ottoman  Porte  is  known  in  the  East). 
There  seems  to  have  been  something  electrical  in 
the  impression  made  by  this  announcement,  which 
appeared  irresistibly  amusing  to  the  Persian  court. 
The  courtiers  burst  into  loud  fits  of  laughter,  and 
the  viceroy  of  Ghilan  whispered  who  he  thought 
it  had  been.  He  frankly  owned  that  he  had  taken 
him  for  a  Mollah  of  one  of  the  poor  Arab  tribes 
whom  he  had  seen  near  the  head  of  the  Persian 
Gulf.  This  redoubled  their  mirth  ;  and  the  king, 
on  entering,  being  told  the  grounds  of  it,  enjoyed 
them  greatly,  and  rallied  the  Turkish  ambassador 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  43 

on  the  subject.  That  personage  appeared  at  first 
somewhat  discomposed,  but  soon  resumed  his  na- 
tural dignity  and  gravity.  During  this  time  Don 
Garcia  had  remarked  a  boy  in  a  plain  green  robe, 
with  his  arm  round  a  pillar,  standing  like  a  statue, 
without  the  least  notice  being  taken  of  him  by 
any  one.  It  was  a  new  surprise  to  learn  that  this 
was  the  heir-apparent  of  the  monarchy.  He  re- 
marked also  a  lady  with  a  face  broader  than  it 
was  long,  seated  at  a  viranda  on  the  bank  of  the 
lake.  She  demeaned  herself  with  an  air  of  ma- 
jesty, as  if  all  that  passed  was  done  only  for  her 
amusement ;  but  he  does  not  seem  to  have  taken 
the  trouble  to  inquire  who  she  was. 

Supper  was  now  brought,  which  agreed  as  little 
as  any  other  particular  with  all  the  preconceived 
ideas  of  Don  Garcia.  It  consisted  of  rice,  mut- 
ton and  fowl,  with  a  desert  of  plums  half  green, 
radishes,  and  cucumbers.  The  fare,  in  short,  was 
such  as  might  have  been  expected  in  the  tent 
of  a  wandering  Arab,  rather  than  at  one  of  the 
most  splendid  courts  of  the  East.  He  talks  with 
derision  of  such  "  poor  and  miserable  customs  ;" 
and  had  no  comfort  unless  in  observing,  that  these 
rude  viands  were  served  in  dishes  of  solid  and 
massive  gold.  The  king  was  courteous  ;  he  drank 
to  the  king  of  Spain,  and  then  to  the  Turkish  am- 
bassador's beard.  His  mind  however  appeared  to 
be  entirely  occupied  in  discussions  with  the  en- 


44  PERSIA* 

voy  respecting  some  contested  provinces ;  so  that 
he  could  afford  nothing  but  courtesy  to  the  Spa» 
niard,  who  at  the  proper  hour  ordered  his  equi- 
page, and  returned  home. 

Don  Garcia  fully  expected  that  this  ceremonial 
introduction  would  be  immediately  followed  by  a 
more  private  interview,  in  which  he  could  enter 
on  the  business  of  the  mission.  The  king,  how- 
ever, delayed  this  on  various  pretences  j  and,  in 
the  mean  time,  a  rumour  spread  that  the  court 
were  preparing  to  set  out  for  Sultania.  The  am- 
bassador saw  that  he  was  trifled  with  ;  and  learn- 
ing that  the  Shah  spent  part  of  every  evening  at 
the  Meidan  or  great  square,  determined  to  go 
thither,  and  force  an  interview.  There,  accord- 
ingly, he  found  the  king,  who  seeing,  by  Don 
Garcia's  action  and  air,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
give  him  the  slip,  voluntarily  rode  up,  and  invit- 
ed him  to  sup  in  one  of  the  royal  gardens.  As 
soon  as  they  were  seated,  the  Shah  opened  the 
conference  with  his  own  complaints.  He  ex- 
pressed great  surprise,  that  the  Pope  and  Spain 
should  not  have  joined  their  whole  force  against 
Turkey,  and  that  the  former,  whose  power  was 
so  generally  acknowledged,  should  not  have  unit- 
ed all  Christendom  in  a  league  against  their  com- 
mon enemy.  Don  Garcia  represented  the  divi- 
sions and  self-interest  which  reigned  among  the 
European  states  ;  but  urged  that  Spain  had  done 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  45 

much  with  her  gallies  to  check  the  power  of  the 
Ottoman.  The  king  replied,  he  doubted  that 
was  very  little,  otherwise  how  could  the  Turkish 
ambassador  have  declared  that  he  never  knew 
till  now  there  was  such  a  country  as  Spain.  Don 
Garcia  vehemently  depreciated  the  knowledge  of 
the  ambassador,  urging  also  that  he  did  not  fill 
any  military  department ;  but  the  Shah  remark- 
ed, that  a  person  in  his  high  official  station  ought 
to  know  every  thing  connected  with  the  political 
state  of  his  country.  When  this  topic  was  ex- 
hausted, Don  Garcia  began  to  touch  upon  that 
of  Ormuz.  On  this  point  the  mind  of  Abbas 
was  evidently  made  up.  He  was  fixed  and  well 
resolved  not  to  cede  an  inch  of  his  conquests  j 
but,  at  the  same  time,  was  willing  to  conciliate 
the  Spaniard  by  every  courtesy  and  concession 
which  would  cost  him  nothing.  In  this  exigence, 
he  bethought  himself  of  a  Catholic  monk,  whom 
he  had  allowed  to  settle,  and  establish  a  small 
convent,  at  Ispahan.  He  had  even  assumed  a 
sort  of  semblance  of  Christianity,  to  be  put  on 
whenever   it  could  answer  any  purpose.*     He 

"*  It  appears  even  that  he  was  at  one  time  formally  bap- 
tized ;  an  event  to  which  the  Jesuits  ascribe  all  the  victories 
with  which  his  arms  were  crowned  against  the  Turks  and 
Tartars.  See  "  Nouvel  Conversion  du  Roi  de  Perse,  avec  la 
'*  DefFette  de  deux  cens  mil  Turcs  apres  sa  conversion."  Paris, 


46  PERSIA. 

sent,  therefore,  to  the  head  of  the  convent,  de- 
siring that  he  should  repair  to  him  instantly,  with 
his  sacred  book.  In  the  mean  time  he  shuffled 
and  sliifted  ;  he  asked  a  sight  of  the  ambassador's 
sword,  and  was  lucky  enough  to  involve  him  in  a 
controversy  on  the  comparative  merit  of  Persian 
and  Castilian  blades.  By  these  shifts  he  got  over 
the  time  till  the  superior  made  his  appearance. 
The  king  instantly  started  up,  took  him  in  his 
arms,  and  kissed  him,  then  melted  into  tears, 
and  rivetted  his  eyes  on  the  holy  page,  of  which 
Garcia  knew  well  that  he  did  not  understand  a 
syllable.  The  Spanish  retinue,  however,  were 
highly  edified  with  the  spectacle,  and  pronounced 
Abbas  the  most  pious  and  best  of  kings.  The 
ambassador,  who  knew  all  this  to  be  rank  hypo- 
crisy, and  saw  the  Persian  lords  laughing  in  their 
sleeve,  deemed  it  incumbent  upon  him  to  say  the 
direct  contrary  of  all  that  he  thought.  He  ex- 
pressed his  deep  admiration  of  what  he  saw,  and 
which  fully  confirmed  the  report  of  his  majesty's 
piety,  which  was  already  so  widely  spread  over 
Europe.  After  this  exhibition,  a  supper,  as 
plain  as  formerly,  was  brought  in.  As  soon 
as  it  was  over,  the  ambassador  judged  it  time 
to  proceed  to  business,  and  began  to  open  the 

1606.  Also,  "  Histoire  Veritable  de  tout  ce  qui  s'est  faict  et 
"  passe  en  Perse  depuis  les  ceremonies  du  Bapteenae  du 
"  Grand  Sophy."     Paris,  1616. 


GARCIA  DE  SYLVA.  Iff 

subject  of  his  mission.  The  instant,  however, 
that  the  name  of  Ormuz  was  mentioned,  the 
monarch  was  seized  with  a  paroxysm  of  holy  fer- 
vour, far  surpassing  all  that  he  had  yet  exhibited. 
Between  every  glass,  he  rivetted  his  eyes  on 
heaven  in  inward  prayer,  and  holy  tears  stream- 
ed down  his  cheek.  In  this  frame  of  the  royal 
mind,  it  would  have  been  obviously  unbecoming 
to  press  the  mention  of  any  secular  concerns. 
Don  Garcia,  therefore,  renewed  the  expression 
of  his  admiration ;  but  as  the  king  descended 
from  this  high  key,  and  began  to  enter  into  com- 
mon conversation,  he  made  repeated  efforts  to 
renew  the  subject  j  but  whenever  the  slightest 
allusion  was  made  to  Ormuz,  the  monarch's  eyes 
were  constantly  seen  raised  upwards,  and  his  tears 
again  beginning  to  flow.  The  ambassador  had 
the  firmness  to  suppress  his  almost  frenzied  rage, 
and  to  maintain  an  outward  politeness ;  but  see- 
ing, that  any  farther  mention  of  the  subject  could 
only  serve  to  rekindle  in  the  monarch  the  flame 
of  piety,  he  rose  and  took  his  leave. 

The  king,  from  this  time,  shewed  Don  Garcia 
still  more  uniform  attention,  and  sent  him  daily 
presents  of  corn,  fruits,  and  game.  The  ambas- 
sador, on  the  other  hand,  went  nightly  to  the 
Meidan,  always  resolving  and  hoping  to  get  his 
remonstrances  listened  to.  MTienever  he  appear- 
ed the  king  rode  up,  gaily  accosted  him,   and 


48  PERSIA. 

usually  calling  for  wine,  drank  the  healths  of  the 
king,  queen,  and  prince  of  Spain ;  then,  when  he 
saw  the  name  of  Ormuz  beginning  to  tremble  on 
his  lips,  pretended  some  urgent  business,  and 
rode  off  abruptly.  The  time  thus  passed,  till  it 
suddenly  became  known  that  the  court  was  to 
set  out  in  three  days  for  Sultania.  Hereupon 
Don  Garcia  went  to  the  Meidan,  determined  to 
bring  the  Shah  to  something.  As  soon  as  the 
military  exercise  was  over,  he  rode  up,  and  point- 
edly said  that  he  wished  to  speak  to  him  on  the 
subject  of  Ormuz.  Abbas  could  contrive  no 
shift  to  extricate  himself;  so  that  the  ambassa- 
dor had  now  the  opportunity  to  open  the  full 
budget  of  his  wrongs  j  the  capture  of  Ormuz,  of 
Queixome  (Kishme),  and  of  Camaraon  (Gom- 
broon) in  time  of  profound  peace,  from  a  power 
for  whom  he  had  always  professed  friendship,  and 
whom  his  glorious  zeal  for  the  Christian  faith 
should  make  him  view  as  allies,  and  even  as  bro- 
thers. In  this  extremity  Abbas  could  think  of 
no  excuse,  but  to  say  that  he  had  taken  them 
from  the  natives,  to  whom  they  most  properly  be- 
longed. The  ambassador,  by  appealing  to  a  hun- 
dred years*  possession,  soon  shewed  the  utter  fu- 
tility of  this  pretext,  so  that  the  monarch  saw  no 
resource  but  suddenly  to  put  spurs  to  his  horse, 
and  gallop  off.  Next  day  he  transmitted  a  mes- 
i>age,  that,  according  to  certain  information,  the 


OLEARIUS.  49 

Turks  were  already  besieging  Van,  which  obliged 
him  to  set  out  without  the  possibility  of  again 
seeing  the  ambassador. 

The  narrative  of  Don  Garcia  here  closes  ;  but 
it  would  appear  that  he  spent  a  longer  time  in 
Persia,  and  died  in  that  country.  It  need  scarce- 
ly be  added,  that  every  future  attempt  to  obtaiii 
restitution  of  the  conquests  made  by  the  Shah, 
had  the  same  result  with  those  which  we  have 
now  commemorated. 

In  1633,  the  Duke  of  Holstein  having  formed 
the  design  of  establishing  a  silk  manufactory, 
sent  an  embassy  into  Persia,  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  procuring  the  raw  material.  A  very 
good  account  of  this  mission  was  written  by  the 
secretary,  Olearius  ;  but  as  its  period  differs  little 
from  that  of  the  more  full  and  satisfactory  narra- 
tive of  Chardin,  our  limits  will  admit  only  of  a 
very  rapid  outline.  They  were  obliged  to  land 
near  Derbent,  in  the  province  of  Shirvan.  Brug- 
man,  the  principal  ambassador,  who  seems  to  have 
been  of  a  violent  and  quarrelsome  temper,  in- 
volved himself  in  a  dispute  with  the  governor,  on 
account  of  receiving  a  horse,  the  quality  of  which 
did  not  appear  to  him  suitable  to  his  dignity. 
Although  the  circumstance  was  clearly  proved  to 
have  arisen  entirely  from  mistake,  he  sent  off  the 
bearers  without  any  present,  which  is  considered 

VOL.  III.  D 


50  PERSIA. 

in  the  East  as  the  highest  indignity.  The  go- 
vernor of  Derbent,  deeply  resenting  this  treat- 
ment, did  every  thing  in  his  power  to  annoy 
them,  and  withhold  the  means  of  proceeding. 
They  were  obliged  to  send  a  messenger  to  the 
Khan  of  Shirvan,  through  whose  good  offices 
they  were  at  length  supplied  with  the  necessa- 
ry accommodations.  They  reached  Schamachi, 
where  they  were  received  with  all  due  honours. 
They  had  an  opportunity  here  of  seeing  the  bap- 
tism of  the  Armenians,  of  whom  great  numbers 
inhabited  this  city.  The  whole  body  went  in 
procession  to  the  river,  being  protected  against 
the  insults  of  the  Mahometans  by  a  strong  body 
of  troops.  The  Khan  had  a  rich  tent  erected, 
and  the  gentlemen  of  the  embassy  were  supplied 
with  fifteen  horses,  to  enable  them  to  contemplate 
this  pious  exhibition.  Four  men  leaped  in  first, 
and  swam  about,  breaking  a  thin  coat  of  ice  with 
which  the  river  was  covered.  The  bishop  then 
stepped  forward,  and  after  having  read  for  about 
an  hour,  consecrated  the  water  by  dipping  into  it 
a  golden  cross.  The  Armenians  then  running  to 
the  bank,  some  of  them  plunged  in,  others 
sprinkled  their  faces  with  water,  while  others 
merely  drank  a  small  portion.  The  Khan  check- 
ed his  attendants,  when  they  attempted  to  offer 
any  serious  annoyance  to  these  devout  bathers, 
but  indulgently  permitted  some  of  them  to  caper 


OLEARIUS.  51 

about,  in  mimicry  of  the  dances  which  the  wor- 
shippers were  performing  round  their  bishop. 

From  Schamachi,  the  ambassadors  proceeded 
by  Ardevil,  Sultania,  Koom,  and  Cashan,  to 
Ispahan.  They  were  received  and  accommodat- 
ed in  a  distinguished  manner,  but  were  soon  in- 
volved in  a  violent  fray  with  an  Indian  ambassa- 
dor, who  happened  to  be  resident  at  Ispahan. 
The  quarrel  began  with  one  domestic  on  each  side, 
and  soon  spread  through  the  whole  body  of  the 
servants  ;  till  the  Indians  having  killed  a  German, 
and  tied  his  body  to  a  horse's  tail,  the  warfare 
became  open  and  violent.  Mr  Mandeslo  killed 
their  chief,  of  which  we  have  seen  that  he  had 
afterwards  nearly  cause  to  repent ;  and  consider- 
able damage  was  done  by  the  Germans  with  their 
fire-arms.  The  Indians,  however,  made  holes  in 
the  wall,  and  poured  in  such  clouds  of  arrows, 
that  our  party  were  in  serious  danger  of  being 
overpowered,  when  a  body  of  troops  arrived  from 
the  Sophi  for  their  relief,  on  whose  appearance 
the  Hindoos  made  off.  The  Sophi  once  threaten- 
ed to  cause  the  Indian  ambassador's  hands  to  be 
cut  off,  but  contented  himself  with  ordering  him 
and  his  whole  train  to  leave  Ispahan.  Soon  after, 
the  embassy  had  their  public  audience,  in  the 
ceremonies  of  which  there  was  nothing  peculiar. 
They  were  received  in  the  hall  of  justice  by  the 
Sophi,   a  young  man  about  twenty-seven,  plainly 


52  PERSIA. 

dressed,  but  having  near  him  a  scimitar  set  with 
diamonds.  They  had  afterwards  many  private 
interviews  with  this  prince,  whose  favour  they 
conciHated  by  becoming  his  bottle  companions. 
They  were  invited  as  to  hunting  parties  ;  but  if 
game  did  not  instantly  make  its  appearance,  wine 
was  produced,  and  such  a  noise  soon  arose,  as 
frightened  away  all  the  feathered  creation.  Yet 
they  saw  also  some  huntings  contrived  upon  the 
futile  plan  of  enabling  the  Sophi  to  take  vast  quan- 
tities of  game  without  effort.  In  taking  cranes,  a 
long  hidden  way  was  made  under  ground,  at  the 
end  of  which  was  strewed  a  quantity  of  wheat,  when 
the  cranes  rushing  in,  were  taken  with  ease,  to  the 
number  of  about  eight  hundred.  The  king  also 
chusing  to  hunt  pigeons,  went  to  a  lofty  tower  done 
up  as  a  pigeon-house,  when  a  great  noise  being 
made,  the  birds  flew  out,  and  were  readily  brought 
down  in  vast  numbers.  Upon  the  whole,  though 
nothing  is  mentioned  as  to  the  business  of  their 
mission,  they  express  the  highest  satisfaction  at 
the  distinguished  and  courteous  manner  in  which 
they  were  uniformly  treated. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
Sir  Thomas  Herbert,  a  very  accomplished  Eng- 
lish gentleman,  visited  several  countries  of  the 
East,  and  particularly  Persia.  He  wants  method, 
and  makes  too  great  a  parade  of  his  learning,  but 


HEHBfiRT.  63 

he  has  hit  off,  in  a  quaint  and  lively  style,  some 
of  the  leading  features  of  Persian  society.  He 
says,  "  Now  concerning  the  natives,  they  are  ge- 
"  nerally  well  limbed  and  straight ;  the  zone 
"  they  live  in  makes  them  tawny  ;  the  wine 
"  cheerful ;  the  women  paint ;  the  men  love 
"  arms ;  all  affect  poetry  ;  what  the  grape  in- 
"  flames,  the  law  allays,  and  example  bridles.'* 
"  The  Persians,**  he  says,  "  have  been  long  praised 
**  as  of  all  men  the  most  civil ;  which  disposition 
"  they  reserve  unto  this  day.'*  "  At  meals," 
adds  he,  "  they  are  the  merriest  men  alive  j  no 
"  people  in  the  world  have  better  stomachs,  or 
"  drink  more  freely,  yet  are  harmlessly  merry. 
"  At  this  exercise  they  sit  long  and  drink  sound- 
"  ly,  condemning  that  precept  of  the  Alcoran  as 
"  an  idle  toy."  The  following  feature  does  not 
seem  to  have  pleased  him  so  much  :  "  The  better 
"  sort  are  so  oft  on  horseback,  that  they  hate  to 
"  see  men  walk  j  such  they  think  distempered  in 
"  mind."  This  inference  apparently  had  been 
applied  to  himself;  hence  he  tauntingly  retorts, 
"  A  madder  thing  to  see  them  ride,  though  it 
"  were  only  for  half  a  stone's  cast." 

In  regard  to  political  constitution.  Sir  Thomas 
observes,  **  Under  most  miserable  servitude  these 
"  wretched  Mahometans  do  live,  happy  only  in 
"  not  knowing  what  a  free  subject  means.'*     Yet 


54/  PERSIA. 

he  observes,  that  justice  is  administered  with 
sreat  rijirour,  and  that  "  travellers  can  scarce  find 
**  a  more  quiet  place  than  Persia."  He  does  not 
mention  having  seen  the  king  except  once,  when 
he  passed  accidentally  through  the  court  in  his 
English  dress.  He  then  received  a  very  gracious 
salutation  from  that  monarch,  who,  he  states, 
took  particular  delight  "  to  see  exotiques  in  their 
"  own  country  habit." 

Among  the  many  travellers  who  have  thrown 
light  on  the  Persian  empire,  Chardin  has  always 
been  considered  as  the  one  to  whom  Europe  is 
most  indebted.  He  devoted  his  life,  as  it  were,  to 
the  knowledge  of  Persia.  He  made  long  and  re- 
peated visits  thither  j  he  traversed  it  in  length  and 
breadth,  from  the  Caspian  to  the  ocean.  He  knew 
Ispahan  better  than  Paris.  The  only  journey,  how- 
ever, of  which  he  has  given  a  detailed  account,  is 
that  undertaken  in  1673.  On  this  occasion  he  car- 
ried a  commission  from  the  king  of  France,  to  col- 
lect a  number  of  valuable  jewels,  for  the  purchase 
of  which  he  brought  other  jewels,  with  12,000 
ducats  in  gold.  He  proceeded  through  Poland 
to  the  Crimea,  embarked  at  Caifa,  and  landed  at 
Isgaour  in  Mingrelia.  He  found  this  a  mere 
desert  spot,  where  the  traders  took  up  their  tem- 
porary abode  while  vessels  were  lading.  They 
then   inclosed  a  market-place  with  stakes,    and 


CHARDlN.  55 

erected  a  few  little  wooden  huts  for  their  resi- 
dence. Chardin  sent  an  express  to  a  monastery 
of  Theatines,  situated  about  forty  miles  up  the 
country,  who,  he  had  been  assured,  would  sup- 
ply him  amply  with  the  means  of  proceeding  into 
Persia.  Meantime  he  was  much  dismayed  to' 
find  that  there  was  not  a  single  article  of  provision 
to  be  purchased,  nor  any  thing  except  slaves 
chained  two  and  two  together.  He  was  obliged 
to  subsist  himself  and  his  attendants  upon  dried 
fish  without  bread.  A  few  days  after  his 
arrival,  news  came  of  the  approach  of  a  band  of 
Abcas  (Abassi),  a  Caucasian  people,  who  had 
entered  Mingrelia  avowedly  as  allies  against  the 
Turks.  The  merchants,  however,  lost  not  a  mo- 
ment in  hurrying  on  board  with  all  their  effects, 
so  as  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  these  trusty  confe- 
derates. Accordingly,  on  their  arrival  the  whole 
market-place  was  instantly  seen  in  a  blaze,  and 
on  landing  again  they  found  nothing  but  ashes. 

About  a  fortnight  had  now  elapsed,  and  Char- 
din  was  longing  very  much  for  the  arrival  of  the 
Theatines,  when  the  Prefect  at  length  made  his 
appearance.  Our  traveller  ran  up  to  him  with  a 
joy  which  he  was  far  from  returning.  He  be- 
sought God  to  forgive  any  one  who  had  advised 
him  to  come  into  this  country  j  that  it  was  the 
most  barbarous  in  the  world,  and  the  people  more 
wicked  than  it  was  possible  to  conceive.     Char- 


56  PERSIA* 

din  having  boasted  that  he  had  a  letter  to  the 
Prince  of  Mingrelia,  the  Prefect  assured  him  that 
there  was  not  a  baser  robber  in  his  dominions. 
As  an  improvement  on  the  general  state  of  affairs, 
the  Turks  and  Georgians  were  laying  waste  the 
country  with  fire  and  sword,  carrying  captive  all 
who  did  not  save  themselves  by  flight.  He  ex- 
horted him,  therefore,  most  earnestly  to  return 
bv  the  way  he  came,  without  a  moment's  de- 
lay. Chardin,  however,  courageously  determin- 
ed to  proceed.  He  sailed  by  sea  to  Anarghia, 
and  thence  to  Sipias,  the  Theatine  convent,  where 
he  was  well  lodged.  His  baggage,  when  landed, 
filled  eight  carts,  the  fame  of  which  spread  over 
all  Mingrelia,  exciting  an  universal  wish  to  obtain 
some  share  of  their  ample  contents.  The  rumour 
soon  procured  him  the  honour  of  a  visit  from  the 
Princess  of  Mingrelia.  She  had  with  her  eight 
female  attendants,  and  about  ten  men,  shabbily 
clothed  and  mounted.  Being  waited  upon  by 
the  superior,  she  immediately  asked  for  the  Eu- 
ropeans, who  had  brought  the  baggage  ;  where- 
upon Chardin  was  introduced.  Her  highness 
put  a  thousand  questions,  in  reply  to  which  he 
declared  himself  to  be  a  Capuchin,  in  the  view  of 
acting  which  character,  he  had  arrayed  himself  in 
very  mean  attire,  hoping  thus  to  obtain  credit  for 
some  measure  of  poverty.  She  put,  moreover, 
other  questions,  as,  whether  he  had  ever  been  in 


CHARDIN.  57 

love  ?  how  he  could  avoid  falling  in  love  ?  and 
whether  he  had  a  wife  ?  On  this  last  question 
being  answered  in  the  negative,  she  bitterly  la- 
mented his  case,  and  undertook  to  provide  one, 
without  paying  the  least  regard  to  his  loud  pro- 
testations of  having  no  wish  to  be  so  accommo- 
dated. This  train  of  questions,  with  the  bursts 
of  laughter  which  accompanied  each,  greatly  dis- 
composed our  author,  especially  as  he  could 
with  difficulty  evade  the  repeated  instances  to 
see  the  contents  of  his  trunks.  He  promised, 
however,  to  wait  upon  her  highness  next  day, 
and  bring  a  handsome  present. 

Next  morning  Chardin  received  from  the  Prin- 
cess an  invitation  to  dinner  at  her  residence, 
which  was  two  miles  distant.  He  was  received 
in  a  covered  space  in  front  of  the  house,  where 
she  and  her  females  sat  on  a  carpet,  the  guards 
being  placed  in  a  circle  on  the  grass.  She  was 
richly  dressed  and  painted,  and  seemed  to  have 
studied  every  art  to  heighten  the  effect  of  her 
charms.  The  present  was  then  produced,  seem- 
ingly by  no  means  ample,  as  it  had  cost  only 
20s.  and  could  not  now  be  valued  at  more  than 
L.S  ;  however,  no  dissatisfaction  was  then  ex- 
pressed. The  dinner  consisted  of  a  hog  roasted 
whole,  and  the  Princess  offered  to  kill  an  ox  if 
he  would  stay  supper ;  but  this  was  understood 
to  be  merely  a  compliment,  which  Chardin  was 


58  1»ERSIA. 

far  from  wishing  to  press  farther  than  it  was 
meant.  All  the  subjects  of  conversation  were 
unwelcome.  She  resumed  that  of  the  wife,  pro- 
mised to  introduce  her  very  speedily,  seemingly 
to  our  author's  great  tribulation.  She  made  spe- 
cific inquiries  for  a  number  of  valuable  articles  ; 
and  in  receiving  always  negative  answers,  became 
very  sensibly  out  of  humour.  As  he  took  leave, 
ill  luck  decreed,  that  beneath  his  mean  frock 
some  fragments  of  a  fine  linen  shirt  became  visi- 
ble. Her  highness  instantly  ran  up,  pulled  up 
the  sleeve  to  the  elbow,  and  exhibited  the  preci- 
ous garment  in  full  view.  A  busy  conversation 
was  then  heard  with  her  women ;  and  it  became 
evident,  that  this  fatal  disclosure  had  ruined  all 
the  faith  hitherto  placed  in  his  protestations  of 
poverty. 

The  events  of  this  interview  tended  to  inspire 
Chardin  with  the  most  gloomy  forebodings  as  to 
the  fate  of  his  property.  That  very  night  he 
dug  a  deep  pit,  in  which  he  deposited  his  gold. 
The  two  boxes  containing  the  diamonds  were 
then  concealed  in  the  thatch  of  the  roof,  where 
it  appeared  scarcely  possible  that  any  one  should 
trace  them.  These  precautions  were  not  superflu- 
ous, for  in  two  or  three  days  ivfo  gentlemen  of  the 
neighbourhood  were  introduced.  Being  imme- 
diately reinforced  by  thirty  followers,  they  beat 
and  bound  all  who  resisted,  and  began  the  strict- 


CHARDIN.  ^9 

est  search  into  all  valuable  articles  contained  in 
the  house.  The  instant  that  Chardin  saw  the 
style  in  which  this  inquest  was  to  be  carried  on, 
he  felt,  that  without  some  very  extraordinary 
effort,  all  was  over  with  his  diamonds.  He  has- 
tened up,  therefore,  before  the  plunderers,  and 
snatching  the  boxes,  made  a  leap  from  the  window 
which  in  his  cooler  moments  he  durst  not  have 
ventured  ;  then  flying  full  speed  to  the  foot  of  the 
garden,  threw  them  at  random  among  a  thicket  of 
briars.  On  his  return,  he  found  them  employed 
upon  the  trunks,  which  he  was  ordered  either  to 
open  instantly,  or  have  his  head  severed  from  his 
body.  Instead  of  complying,  he  began  to  speak ; 
whereupon  a  soldier  conceived  him  to  have  ac- 
cepted the  latter  alternative,  and  had  his  sword 
already  out,  but  was  luckily  stopped.  Chardin 
turned  away  his  eyes,  that  they  might  not  behold 
the  dismal  events  which  now  ensued.  The  srentle- 
men  picked  out  every  thing  which  appeared  va- 
luable and  portable  ;  they  searched  the  garden, 
and  even  the  briars,  but  luckily  did  not  light  upon 
the  boxes.  As  the  subterranean  consignment 
also  escaped  their  notice,  the  whole  damage  did 
not  exceed  four  hundred  crowns.  Chardin,  how- 
ever, made  an  appeal  to  the  Prince,  who  had  his 
castle  at  fifteen  miles  distance.  The  Prince  ex- 
pressed regret,  but  stated,  that,  in  the  present 
distracted  state  of  the  country,   it  was  out  of  his 


Co  PERSIA. 

power  to  restrain  his  nobility  from  such  practices. 
He  promised  to  endeavour  to  obtain  restitution  ; 
but  his  efforts,  if  made,  were  fruitless.  As  to 
their  friend  the  Princess,  they  learned,  from  the 
very  best  authority,  that  a  third  of  the  proceeds 
went  into  her  treasury. 

These  perils  were  immediately  succeeded  by 
others  equally  formidable.  News  arrived  that  a 
Turkish  army  had  entered  Mingrelia,  and  was 
laying  all  waste  with  fire  and  sword.  Our  author 
was  obliged  to  fly  for  five  leagues  through  the 
mire  to  a  fortress  in  the  woods,  where  a  chief 
friendly  to  the  Theatines  afforded  them  shelter. 
They  could  obtain  no  lodging,  except  a  misera- 
ble bake-house  open  on  every  side  to  the  rain, 
and  only  preferable  to  the  open  court  in  which 
the  multitude  were  obliged  to  crowd.  Mean- 
while the  Turks  coming  to  the  house,  found  no- 
thing which  was  at  once  valuable  and  portable ;  so 
that  after  taking  away  a  few  trifles  they  departed. 
Fate,  however,  decreed,  that  a  Mingrelian  gentle- 
man deemed  it  prudent  to  glean  such  particulars  as 
they  had  overlooked.  Chardin  had  left  his  library, 
not  apprehending  that  Mingrelia  contained  any 
person,  foreign  or  native,  to  whom  it  could  be  an 
object  of  cupidity.  The  gentleman's  ingenuity, 
however,  found  the  means  of  turning  these  litera- 
ry treasures  to  account.  Being  in  want  of  light 
to  carry  on  his  search,  he  tore  out  the  paper,  and 


CHARDIN.  61 

made  it  supply  the  place  of  candles ;  while  the 
gilt  bindings,  in  which  our  author  was  curious, 
were  judged  worthy  to  be  carried  off  as  orna- 
ments. Only  a  few  fragments  attested  to  Char- 
din  the  fate  of  this  valued  portion  of  his  pro- 
perty. 

Our  traveller  felt  now  a  very  strong  inclination 
to  bid  adieu  to  Mingrelia  ;  but  the  enemy  being 
in  possession  of  all  the  passes  into  Georgia,  ren- 
dered the  journey  dangerous  ;  and  he  complains 
bitterly  of  the  extravagant  love  of  life  which  ac- 
tuated the  Mingrelians,  and  rendered  any  one 
unwilling  to  hazard  theirs  in  serving  as  his  guide. 
He  was  obliged,  therefore,  to  take  a  circuitous 
route  by  sea,  and  landed  at  Gonieh,  where,  after 
some  custom-house  exactions,  he  reached  the 
frontier  of  Mingrelia.  He  describes  in  the  strong- 
est terms  his  satisfaction  at  quitting  a  country, 
where,  he  says,  the  most  direful  of  human  evils, 
the  loss  of  goods,  insult,  slavery,  marriage^  had 
alternately  menaced  him.  With  a  light  heart, 
therefore,  he  climbed  the  tremendous  steeps  of 
Caucasus,  though  the  snow  at  the  top  was  often 
ten  feet  deep,  and  required  to  be  removed  by 
shovels.  The  lower  declivities,  however,  were 
well  cultivated,  and  produced  excellent  wine. 

Mingrelia  consists  of  a  plain  interposed  be- 
tween the  Euxine  and  some  of  the  loftiest  steeps 
of  Caucasus,  which  water  it  with  so  many  streams 


0^2  PERSIA. 

as  to  render  the  soil  excessively  soft  and  moist. 
Hence  the  plough  is  said  to  be  often  unnecessary, 
and  equally  efficacious  when  made  of  wood  as  of 
iron.  This  superabundant  moisture  is  injurious 
to  grains  and  fruits  of  every  description,  except 
the  vine,  which  is  particularly  plentiful  and  ex- 
cellent. The  state  of  society  seems  much  to  re- 
semble that  which  prevailed  in  Europe  during 
the  very  rudest  period  of  the  feudal  ages.  The 
great  lords  have  absolute  jurisdiction  over  their 
vassals,  which  extends  even  to  putting  them  to 
death,  or  selling  their  wives  and  children  into 
slavery.  They  have  castles  in  which  all  their 
treasures  and  valuables  are  kept,  and  which  serve 
as  a  retreat  to  their  vassals  in  case  of  invasion. 
War,  theft,  and  rapine,  form  their  daily  occupa- 
tion. The  chief,  and  even  Prince,  sits  down  at 
the  same  table  with  the  meanest  of  his  servants, 
having,  however,  superior  place  and  food  appro- 
priated to  him.  The  men  are  handsome,  and 
the  women  possess  an  ample  share  of  that  beauty 
which  is  so  generally  and  strikingly  characteristic 
of  the  Caucasian  tribes. 

The  Mingrelians  pretend  to  be  Christians,  and 
to  have  a  church  of  their  own,  supposed  to  be 
founded  by  St  Andrew.  Their  Catholicos  enjoys 
very  considerable  revenues,  and  even  rivals  the 
power  of  the  Prince.  Nothing  however  can  ex- 
ceed the  ignorance  of  the  clergy,  who  do  not  in- 


CHARDIN.  63 

culcate  on  the  people  the  very  first  principles  of 
religion.     They  maintain  their  credit  chiefly  by 
pretending  to  foretel  the  future,  and  to  cure  dis- 
eases by  supernatural  means.    Their  religious  rites 
are  performed  in  the  most  irreverent  manner. 
Chardin  saw  one  of  them  baptizing  a  child,  which 
he  did  by  reading  for  a  long  time  out  of  a  half 
torn  volume,  but  constantly  breaking  off  to  speak 
to  every  one  that  came  into  the  room.     At  ano- 
ther time,  while  he  was  asking  the  road  at  the 
door  of  a  church,  the  priest,  who  was  saying  mass, 
called  out,  that  he  would  come  and  shew  it.    He 
then  came  out  mumbling  the  mass  all  the  way ; 
then  having  put  some  questions,  civilly  pointed 
out  the  road  and  returned.     With  all  this,  they 
do  not  account  Europeans  Christians  at  all,  be- 
cause they  do  not  keep  so  many  fasts  as  them- 
selves, nor  pay  the  same  devout  regard  to  images. 
After  leaving  Mingreha,   our  author  entered 
Georgia,  and  spent  some  time  at  Tefflis.    He  does 
not  paint  the  Georgians  in   such   dark  colours 
as  their  neighbours.     He  found  them  in  general 
civil  and  friendly,  though  fickle,  turbulent,  and 
mutinous.      Their   manners   are  licentious,  and 
they  indulge  deep  in  every  kind  of  good  cheer. 
He  does  not  believe  there  is  a  country  in  the 
world  where  such  good  wine  is  drunk,  or  so  much 
of  it.    Eating  also  is  treated  in  the  most  systema- 
tic manner,  and  occupies  an  almost  inconceivable 


Ci  PERSIA. 

time.  At  one  entertainment  our  author  remained 
three  hours,  without  the  course  of  roast  meat  being 
yet  brought  in.  They  begin  to  drink  small  cups, 
which  as  the  feast  proceeds,  wax  always  larger  and 
larger,  till  at  length  the  most  courageous  begin  to 
empty  large  goblets  in  honour  of  their  chiefs.  Char- 
din  was  luckily  left  to  the  freedom  of  his  own  will ; 
for  had  he  attempted  to  keep  pace  with  the  rest 
of  the  company,  he  must  have  dropt  down  dead 
on  the  spot.  Georgia  being  placed  on  the  limit 
between  the  Mahometan  and  Christian  nations, 
exhibited  a  great  mixture  of  manners  and  popula- 
tion. The  Princes  affected  Mahometanism,  as 
the  only  road  to  advancement ;  but  they  were 
supposed  secretly  to  share  the  feelings  of  the  peo- 
ple, whose  attachment  to  Christianity  was  so  de- 
cided, that  they  would  not  allow  a  mosque  to  be 
built  in  Tefflis.  There  were,  on  the  contrary, 
fourteen  churches,  which  appeared  to  Chardin  to 
bear  a  very  full  proportion  to  any  measure  of  piety 
that  he  was  able  to  observe. 

After  some  stay  in  Georgia,  our  traveller  began 
to  pass  the  lofty  mountains  which  separate  it 
from  the  Persian  province  of  Aderbijan.  The 
road  lay  over  some  of  the  most  lofty  and  rugged. 
The  houses  of  the  peasantry  were  chiefly  dug 
out  of  the  earth  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  afford- 
ing a  pretty  comfortable  habitation,  warm  in 
winter,  and  cool  in  summer*     The  higher  parts 


CHARDIX.  6S 

of  the  ridge  were  covered  with  perpetual  and 
very  deep  snow,  which  could  be  crossed  only  by 
one  beaten  track,  so  narrow  that  two  horses  could 
not  pass  each  other.  When  two  parties  were  so 
unlucky  as  to  meet,  the  strongest  compelled  the 
weaker  to  plunge  into  the  snow  at  the  side,  which 
took  the  horses  above  the  middle,  and  there  wait 
till  the  others  were  gone  by.  The  hardship  was 
considered  so  severe,  that  when  there  was  any 
approach  to  equality,  a  skirmish  usually  ensued. 
Our  party,  however,  was  in  such  force  as  always 
to  oblige  its  antagonists  to  take  the  plunge.  A 
storm  of  fresh  snow,  when  it  occurs  in  these  tre- 
mendous heights,  often  causes  the  destruction  of 
a  caravan. 

From  these  high  regions  Chardin  descended  to 
Erivan,  a  large  dirty  city,  situated  on  the  brink  of 
a  precipice,  near  a  large  lake  of  the  same  name. 
The  inhabitants  maintained,  that  Noah  had  re- 
sided here  both  before  and  after  the  flood ;  and 
they  continued  to  point  out,  at  twelve  leagues  dis- 
tance, the  mountain  on  which  the  ark  had  light- 
ed, and  to  insist  that  it  was  still  there.  No  one, 
however,  had  been  so  fortunate  as  to  make  his 
way  up  to  it.  After  leaving  Erivan,  they  came 
in  four  days  to  Nacshivan,  where  only  vast  piles 
of  ruins  told  how  great  this  city  had  once  been. 
He  came  then  to  Julfa,  exhibiting  a  range  of 
rocks  cut  out  into  numerous  habitations.     Bar- 

VOL.  III.  E 


G6  PERSIA. 

baro  saw  it  or  a  similar  one  inhabited  ;  but  Shah 
Abbas,  wishing  to  interpose  a  desert  barrier  be- 
tween his  dominions  and  those  of  Turkey,  had 
transported  all  the  inhabitants  to  Ispahan.  A  few 
days  more  brought  them  to  Tauris,  once  the  capital 
and  still  the  second  city  of  Persia.  It  continued 
the  seat  of  a  most  extensive  trade,  and  was  sup- 
posed to  contain  upwards  of  half  a  million  of  in- 
habitants. Its  bazaars  were  magnificent,  filled 
with  the  most  precious  commodities ;  and  he  saw 
no  Meidan  or  public  square  in  Persia  so  spacious 
as  that  of  Tauris.  It  was  the  theatre  of  numerous 
games  for  the  amusement  of  the  populace,  among 
which  the  wolf-fights  mentioned  by  Barbaro  still 
prevailed.  He  passed  next  through  Sultania  and 
Sawa,  about  nine  miles  to  the  east  of  which  latter 
place  are  some  remains  of  Rey,  described  by  the 
orientals  as  once  the  greatest  city  of  Asia.  It  is 
represented  as  containing  4G00  colleges,  15,000 
minarets,  and  1.3,000  caravanseras.  It  was  de- 
corated with  the  pompous  titles  of  "  Spouse  of 
"  the  World,"  and  "  Market  of  the  Universe." 
He  passed  next  Kom,  a  great  and  ancient  city, 
and  Cashan,  which  was  then  very  flourishing. 
Three  weeks  from  Cashan  brought  them  to  the 
imperial  capital  of  Ispahan. 

The  court  of  Persia  was  found  by  Chardin  to 
have  entirely  changed  its  aspect  during  the  eight 
years  of  his  absence.     All  who  were  then  in  fa- 


CHAUDIN.  67 

vour  were  now  either  dead  or  disgraced.     The 
state  of  things  was  peculiarly  unfavourable  to  his 
views.     Chekali  Khan,  a  disgraced  minister,  had 
just  been  restored  to  power,  in  the  following  odd 
manner.    The  king,  who  was  not  deterred  by  his 
Mahometan  profession  from  drinking  wine  to  the 
greatest  excess,  one  evening,  in  a  fit  of  intoxica- 
tion, ordered  a  favourite  lute  player  to  have  his 
hands  and  feet  cut  off!    The  officer  to  whom  this 
mandate  was  given,  judged  it  a  mere  burst  of 
drunken  rage,  which  would  never  be  thought  of 
more.     The  king  however  recollected  his  order, 
and  finding  it  not  executed,  ordered  the  disobe- 
dient officer  to  suffer  the  same  mutilation.    Ano- 
ther who  ventured  to  intercede  for  both,  was  also 
doomed  to  share  their  fate.     A  strong  sensation 
was  excited  in  the  court  at  a  sentence  so  dis- 
graceful and  atrocious.     Chekali  Khan  courage- 
ously presented  himself  before  the  monarch,  and 
made  so  able  and  judicious  a  remonstrance,  that 
he  not  only  saved  the  hands  and  feet  of  the  three 
victims,  but  restored  himself  completely  to  favour, 
and  was  reinstated  in  his  office.    Chardin  candid- 
ly acknowledges,  that  he  was  an  excellent  and 
upright  minister,  entirely  devoted  to  the  good  of 
the  state,  and  possessed  of  a  thousand  good  qua- 
lities.    The  aversion  he  shewed  to  Christians  is 
admitted  to  have  arisen  solely  from  his  strict  re- 
ligious principles,  which  also  made  him  obstinate- 


G8  PERSIA* 

ly  refuse  to  drink  wine,  thougli  continually  urged 
to  it  by  the  king,  who  in  his  revels  used  to  throw 
cups  of  it  in  his  face.  One  of  his  best  qualities,  but 
the  most  fatal  to  the  hopes  of  our  learned  jeweller, 
was  his  strict  economy  of  the  public  money,  and 
aversion  to  every  kind  of  vain  ostentation.  The 
Nazir,  or  agent,  to  whom  Chardin  applied,  ac- 
quainted him  with  these  circumstances,  exhorting 
him  to  hope  in  the  clemency  of  God ;  an  advice 
used  by  the  Persians  when  they  consider  all  hu- 
man hope  as  desperate.  Chardin  was  thus  left 
for  a  long  time  with  very  little  prospect  of  any 
result  from  his  mission ;  but  at  length,  through 
the  interest  of  some  great  men,  he  found  means 
to  have  the  jewels  submitted  to  his  Majesty*s  in- 
spection, after  which  a  negociation  was  opened. 
It  was  of  very  great  length,  and  no  means  were 
left  untried  to  beat  down  the  price.  Arts,  threats, 
promises,  tricks,  were  none  of  them  spared.  They 
sometimes  flattered,  and  sometimes  were  like  to 
devour  him.  They  were  particularly  confounded 
by  his  adherence  to  his  first  price,  which  appear- 
ed to  them  an  obstinacy  quite  inconceivable. 
However,  by  dint  of  firmness  and  patience,  he 
brought  the  treaty  at  length  to  a  satisfactory 
issue. 

The  Persians  are  described  by  Chardin  as  the 
most  civilized  nation  in  the  East,  and  the  greatest 
complimenters  in   the  world.     Nothing  can  ex- 


CIIARDIN.  69 

ceed  the  skill  with  which  they  administer  flat- 
tery ;  sometimes  when  they  know  that  a  person 
is  passing,  they  contrive  to  be  overheard  speak- 
ing his  praise.  With  the  exception  of  the  priest- 
hood, they  are  extremely  tolerant  to  the  professors 
of  other  religions,  even  those  which  they  think 
the  most  abominable.  They  allow  them  even, 
without  any  very  severe  criticism,  to  be  taken  up 
and  laid  down  at  pleasure.  The  stranger  who 
sees  them  only  in  a  passing  manner,  would  form 
a  most  favourable  judgment;  but  an  intimate  ac- 
-quaintance  soon  shews  them  to  be  only  "  whiten- 
**  ed  sepulchres.'*  Amid  their  excess  of  polite- 
ness, generosity  is  entirely  a  stranger  to  them  ; 
interest  here,  as  over  all  the  East,  is  the  sole  prin- 
ciple of  action.  So  different  are  their  ideas  of 
personal  dignity  from  ours,  that  they  place  their 
glory  in  receiving  presents.  AVithout  presents, 
no  inferior  can  approach  a  superior,  nor  any  one 
ask  a  favour  from  another.  The  donation  is  made 
in  the  most  public  possible  place  and  manner,  and 
is  immediately  followed  by  the  granting  of  the 
petition.  The  Persians  are  the  greatest  spenders 
in  the  world,  and  the  persons  who  least  think  of 
the  morrow.  Suppose  the  king  to  give  one  of 
them  fifty  or  a  hundred  thousand  livres,  in  less 
than  a  fortnight  the  whole  has  disappeared.  Fur- 
niture, slaves,  horses,  women,  have  entirely  ab- 
sorbed it.    His  funds  are  then  exhausted,  and  he 


70  PERSIA. 

begins  selling  them  piece  by  piece,  till  at  length 
perhaps  he  sells  his  very  clothes.  The  greatest 
license  is  used  in  the  assumption  of  titles.  Even 
servants,  without  blame  or  scruple,  affix  to  their 
names  those  of  Duke,  Prince,  or  Mirza.  The 
real  grandees,  on  the  contrary,  and  those  who 
aim  at  rising  in  the  world,  ostentatiously  assume 
the  appellation  of  slave.  Slave  to  the  king,  slave 
to  Mahomet,  are  the  titles  of  which  they  make  the 
highest  boast.  The  Persians  view  with  just  hor- 
ror our  custom  of  common  swearing.  They  never 
mention  the  name  of  the  Deity,  unless  with  os- 
tentatious reverence  ;  but  they  introduce  it  into 
their  conversation  too  often,  either  in  exclama- 
tions of  praise  or  in  confirmation  of  promises ; 
which  last  they  too  probably  intend  to  break. 
Their  devout  speeches  are  apt  often  to  alternate 
with  others,  in  which  indecency  and  ribaldry  pre- 
dominate. 

The  government  of  Persia  is  a  complete  despo- 
tism. The  king,  according  to  the  original  Ma- 
hometan idea,  which  no  violence  or  usurpation 
has  been  able  to  eradicate,  is  reverenced  as  the 
prophet  of  God.  Unfortunately,  no  due  respect 
exists  for  the  principle  of  primogeniture;  so  that, 
on  the  death  of  a  sovereign,  his  sons,  as  we  have 
repeatedly  seen,  immediately  begin  to  attack  and 
massacre  each  other.  The  princesses  are  mar- 
ried, not  to  men  of  the  sword,  but  to  ecclesias- 


CHARDIN.  71 

tics,  as  men  who  cannot  raise  any  pretensions  to 
the  kingdom,  and  who,  it  is  supposed,  will  be 
better  trained  to  that  submission  which  these 
lofty  dames  claim  as  their  due.  With  respect  to 
their  families,  a  system  of  the  most  barbarous 
precaution  is  adopted.  They  are  entirely  at  the 
disposal  of  the  king,  who,  in  some  instances,  has 
caused  the  whole  to  be  put  to  death  ;  and  most 
usually  the  sons,  on  coming  into  the  world,  have 
their  eyes  put  out.  The  provinces  are  ruled  up- 
on two  different  systems.  Originally  they  were 
all  subject  to  hereditary  governors  or  khans,  who 
carried  on  the  whole  internal  administration,  and 
lived  in  great  pomp,  merely  paying  tribute,  and 
furnishing  troops  when  demanded.  Shah  Sephi, 
the  successor  of  Shah  Abbas,  introduced,  with 
regard  to  the  central  provinces,  the  system  of  in- 
tendants,  who  are  mere  revenue  officers,  remov- 
able at  pleasure.  The  amount  of  revenue  was 
thus  considerably  augmented  ;  but  judicious  per- 
sons considered  it  as  deeply  injurious  to  the  pro- 
sperity of  the  empire.  The  hereditary  rulers  felt 
a  permanent  interest  in  the  prosperity  of  the  pro- 
vince, which  they  sought  by  every  means  to  pro- 
mote ;  while  the  new  officers  study  only  to  enrich 
themselves  during  the  short  era  of  their  power. 
The  attachment,  too,  and  habits  of  obedience  of 
the  people  to  their  hereditary  rulers,  were  in  no 
degree    transferred    to  these  upstart   governors. 


72  PERSIA. 

The  weakness  thus  induced  has  probably  been 
one  main  cause  of  that  series  of  destructive  revo- 
lutions to  which  Persia  has  since  been  subject. 

The  military  system  of  Persia  is  entirely  diffe- 
rent from  that  of  Europe.  They  have  no  idea  of 
tactics  or  regular  evolutions.  Their  reviews  con- 
sist merely  in  the  soldiers  marching  along  one 
by  one,  and  having  their  arms  examined.  In 
making  war  they  fly  round  an  enemy  like  volti- 
geurSy  cut  off  his  provisions  and  water,  and,  when 
they  see  him  thoroughly  exhausted,  fall  suddenly 
upon  him.  When  threatened  with  a  great  inva- 
sion, they  lay  waste  the  frontier,  burying  all  the 
provisions  so  skilfully  as  not  to  be  discovered  ; 
while  the  dryness  of  the  soil  preserves  all  till 
their  return.  In  this  manner  great  armies  of  the 
Turks  have  been  repeatedly  destroyed,  without 
any  regular  action. 

The  Persians  are  a  lettered  people.  The  scien- 
ces are  even  considered  by  Chardin  as  their  rul- 
ing passion.  The  great  men  pay  the  greatest  at- 
tention to  the  education  of  their  children,  which 
is  chiefly  conducted  at  home  by  hired  tutors. 
Even  men  with  long  beards,  thirty,  forty,  or  fifty 
years  of  age,  are  not  ashamed  to  be  seen  at  their 
studies,  and  even  to  begin  the  elements  of  learn- 
ing. The  three  ranks  of  their  wise  men  are 
Taleby  MollaJi,  and  MoushteJied.  This  last  is  a 
character  far  superior  to  any  which  letters  can 


CHARDIN.  73 

confer  in  Europe.  The  Moushtehed  is  supposed 
to  understand  all  the  sixty-two  sciences,  and  to 
be  entitled  to  give  opinions  upon  every  subject, 
which  it  would  be  perilous  to  contradict.  This 
lofty  dignity  is  conferred  solely  by  public  con- 
sent, and  there  are  few  who  enjoy  it  undisputed. 
Chardin  knew  only  one ;  and  even  in  his  case, 
the  voice  of  the  nation  was  not  quite  unani- 
mous. There  were  many,  however,  on  the  road 
to  be  Moushteheds.  Our  author  extols  much 
the  sciences  of  Persia,  representing  them  as  quite 
equal  to  those  of  Europe,  unless  in  respect  of 
some  new  discoveries,  many  even  of  which,  ac- 
counted new  by  us,  are  old  in  the  East.  He 
adds,  that  all  the  Greek  authors  known  to  us 
are  translated  into  Persian,  and  familiarly  read. 
On  this  last  point  Mr  Langles  observes,  that  he  is 
certainly  mistaken,  the  Greek  translations  being 
confined  to  fragments  of  Aristotle,  Galen,  Euclid, 
and  Ptolemy  ;  they  know  nothing  of  the  his- 
tory of  the  west,  nor  even  of  their  own  coun- 
try prior  to  the  Mahometan  invasion.  Alex- 
ander with  them  is  the  mere  hero  of  poetical 
fables.  In  regard  to  their  circle  of  sciences, 
when  it  comes  to  be  specified,  it  does  not  make 
so  imposing  an  appearance  as  in  our  author's  ge- 
neral assertion.  The  following  is  the  list,  ac- 
cording to  the  order  in  which  they  are  studied  : 
Grammar  and   syntax — theology — philosophy — 


74  PERSIA. 

mathematics.  He  who  has  passed  through  these 
is  ready  to  enter  on  astrology  and  medicine, 
which  are  the  prime  sciences,  and  those  which 
alone  lead  to  fortune.  Morality  in  Persia  is  much 
studied,  though  little  practised.  It  is  communi- 
cated in  the  old  oriental  modes  of  proverb,  apo- 
logue, and  fable.  After  all,  poetry  is  the  great 
passion  of  this  people  ;  and  the  Persian  bards 
enjoy  a  high  pre-eminence  of  fame  among  those 
of  the  East.  Poetry  is  continually  quoted  in 
their  prose  writings  and  common  conversation  ; 
their  fables,  and  even  their  treatises  on  science, 
are  turned  into  verse.  Their  images  are  of  the 
boldest  and  most  glowing  description  ;  so  that, 
according  to  Chardin,  our  poetry  is  scarcely  prose 
in  comparison.  There  are  two  classes  of  poets  j 
one  whose  theme  is  wisdom  and  morality  ;  and 
another,  whose  lyre  is  devoted  to  love.  At 
the  head  of  the  former  is  Sadi,  of  the  latter 
Hafiz.  Their  love  songs,  in  consequence  of  the 
monotony  of  oriental  manners,  cannot  exhibit 
that  variety  of  situation  and  feeling  which  fill  the 
amatory  poems  of  Europe.  They  contain  chiefly 
an  elaborate  picture  of  the  beauties  of  the  belov- 
ed object,  the  miseries  of  absence,  and  the  joys  of 
possession.  Rigid  Mahometans  scarcely  consider 
it  lawful  to  peruse  the  works  of  Hafiz,  unless 
M'hen  interpreted  in  a  spiritual  and  mystic  sense. 


BEMBO LEANDRO.  7^ 

of  which,  in  many  instances,  they  are  very  ill 
susceptible. 

Ambrogio  Bembo,  an  intelligent  Italian,  visit- 
ed Persia  at  the  same  time  with  Chardin.  His 
narrative,  however,  remained  in  manuscript  till 
an  abstract  was  recently  given  by  Morelli.  His 
attention  seems  to  have  been  chiefly  directed  to 
the  antiquities  ;  and  he  surveyed  not  only  those 
of  Persepolis,  but  others  at  Besetun  and  Cher- 
monsac  (Kermanschaw).  The  object  at  the  lat- 
ter place  he  describes  as  a  sculptured  mountain 
covered  chiefly  with  huntings.  To  make  draw- 
ings of  these  objects,  he  employed  Grelot,  who 
had  come  out  with  Chardin  j  and  Bembo  was 
thus  involved  in  a  quarrel  with  that  traveller. 
Grelot,  he  asserts,  came  to  him  quite  voluntarily, 
declaring  that  he  was  tired  of  travelling,  and  dis- 
gusted with  the  treatment  he  received  from  Char- 
din. This  youth  is  praised  as  learned,  modest, 
and  very  serviceable.  Of  the  two  manuscript 
copies  of  this  journey,  one  is  adorned  with  his 
drawings,  a  selection  of  which  would  doubtless 
be  very  interesting. 

Our  next  narrative  relates  to  a  subsequent 
period,  when  a  daring  adventurer,  under  the  suc- 
cessive names  Kouli  Khan,  Velin  Naamet,  and 
Shah  Nadir,  delivered  his  country  from  the  yoke  of 


76  PERSIA. 

the  Afghans,  only  to  rule  over  it  with  yet  a  bloodier 
sway.  Fra  Leandro  de  Santa  Cecilia,  a  Carmelite 
friar,  under  the  combined  character  of  physician 
and  monk,  then  resided  in  Persia  for  a  series  of 
years.     Ever  since  the  time  of  Shah  Abbas  there 
had  been  convents  at  Ispahan,  which  had  been 
variously  treated,   according  to  the  disposition  of 
the  reigning  monarch.    Under  the  capricious  and 
barbarous  sway  of  Nadir,   their  situation  was  pe- 
culiarly fluctuating.     At  one  time  that  monarch 
gave  orders  for  four  translations  :  one  of  the  Gos- 
pels by  European  Christians  ;  of  the  Epistles  by 
Armenians;  of  the  Old  Testament  by  Jews ;  and 
of  the  Alcoran  by  Persian  Mollahs.    He  was  con- 
jectured as  having  it  in  contemplation  to  make  a 
selection  from  each,  and  set  himself  forth  as  the 
founder  of  a  new  religion.     Such  was  the  zeal  of 
the  persons  employed,  each  imagining  that  the 
Shah  would  embrace  his  own  faith,   that  in  eight 
months  all  the  tasks  were  completed.    They  came, 
therefore,  at  the  same  time  to  present  them,  and 
were  admitted  together   into  the  royal  garden. 
They  found  here  a  number  of  other  persons  in 
waiting ;  who  being  successively  introduced,  each 
came  out  with  a  rope  round  his  neck,   was  imme- 
diately strangled,  and  carried  away  to  be  thrown 
to  wild  beasts.    In  the  course  of  an  hour  eighteen 
were  thus  disposed  of.    It  is  easy  to  conceive  the 
dismay  and  horror  of  the  hapless  translators.     It 


LEANDRO.  77 

is  boasted,  however,  that  their  minds  soon  regain- 
ed their  serenity  ;  and  that,  anticipating  now  an 
immediate  crown  of  martyrdom,  they  disputed 
with  each  other  on  whom  it  should  first  be  con- 
ferred. At  length  they  were  all  admitted  ;  but 
the  glory  so  eagerly  contended  for  was  not  des- 
tined for  them.  The  king  received  them  well, 
asked  if  they  were  comfortably  lodged,  and  made 
them  a  present  of  200  tomans.  The  books  he 
received  without  even  looking  at  them,  being 
probably  diverted  by  other  plans  and  occupations 
from  that  original  object. 

The  most  curious  part  of  our  author's  narrative 
relates  to  a  residence  of  some  years  at  Bagdad, 
then  the  seat  of  an  almost  independent  Turkish 
state.  Achmet,  its  ruler,  having  set  out  to  be- 
siege Bassora,  all  the  ladies  of  the  haram  fasted 
for  three  days  and  three  nights  to  secure  his  suc- 
cess. This  regimen  threw  the  principal  Queen 
into  a  violent  fever,  and  her  life  was  despaired 
of.  In  this  exigence,  the  medical  skill  of  Lean- 
dro  caused  him  to  be  sent  for.  He  was  told, 
however,  that  he  must  cure  the  disease  without 
even  seeing  the  patient.  In  vain  did  he  protest 
the  impossibility  of  so  doing  ;  the  Sultan  was  ab- 
sent, who  alone  could  have  relaxed  the  rigid  laws 
of  the  haram.  As  Leandro,  however,  insisted 
that  he  must  feel  her  Majesty's  pulse,  the  Aga 
and  eight  eunuchs  went  to  negociate  with  the 


78  PERSIA. 

ladies  upon  this  subject.  The  result  was,  that  an 
eunuch  came  and  took  him  to  a  room,  the  en- 
trance of  which  was  closed  by  a  rich  curtain  that 
swept  the  ground.  He  was  then  desired  to  stoop, 
and  put  his  hand  under  the  curtain,  when  an 
eunuch  on  the  other  side  apphed  it  to  the  pulse 
of  the  lady,  who  was  lying  on  the  floor.  The 
violence  with  which  it  beat,  and  the  difficulty  of 
respiration  which  she  was  stated  to  feel,  convinc- 
ed our  physician  of  the  existence  of  strong  in- 
flammation. He  directed,  therefore,  copious 
bleeding,  and  that  she  should  be  kept  constantly 
awake  ;  a  prescription,  the  aim  of  which  we  do 
not  thoroughly  comprehend,  but  on  which  he 
seems  to  have  placed  very  great  reliance.  He 
then  sat  with  his  eyes  constantly  fixed  on  two 
large  books  that  lay  before  him,  so  that  in  case  of 
failure  he  might  be  able  to  prove,  how  carefully 
he  had  studied  the  case.  The  patient  began  to 
mend  ;  and  though  a  relapse  took  place,  he  found 
on  inquiry  that  it  proceeded  from  neglecting  his 
prescriptions  ;  which  being  resumed,  a  complete 
cure  was  effected.  The  Aga  then  came  to  ask 
what  was  due  for  this  important  service.  Lean- 
dro  replied,  that  he  sought  only  the  honour  of 
serving  his  Majesty  ;  that  he  made  profession  of 
poverty  ;  and  having  neither  wife  nor  children, 
was  content  if  he  had  bread  to  eat.  The  Aga 
expressed  tlie  utmost  amazement  at  his  neglect- 


LEANDRO.  79 

ing  such  an  opportunity  of  improving  his  fortune, 
above  all  when  he  was  in  such  a  miserable  condi- 
tion ;  and  at  last  took  leave,  saying  reproachfully, 
**  Be  poor  and  proud."  Very  shortly  after,  how- 
ever, this  officer  again  appeared,  with  a  counte- 
nance all  gay  and  smiling,  and  invited  Leandro 
to  the  haram.  Our  author  never  doubted  now 
that  he  would  be  admitted  to  an  audience  of 
the  Queen  ;  the  prospect  of  which  appears  to 
have  flattered  him  exceedingly,  as  well  as  inspir- 
ed hopes  of  influence  at  court.  He  was  led  to 
the  usual  entrance,  when  there  came  from  be- 
hind the  curtain  an  old  lady,  accompanied  by 
three  handsome  girls,  with  their  veils  turned  up. 
Our  author  was  struck  with  extraordinary  amaze 
at  this  spectacle,  as  there  was  no  appearance  that 
any  one  present  could  be  the  Queen,  and  the 
young  ladies  appeared  in  such  perfect  health,  that 
they  could  not  be  supposed  to  be  fresh  patients. 
The  old  lady,  however,  immediately  began  a 
speech,  in  which  she  stated  the  anxious  wish  felt 
by  her  Majesty  to  reward  him  for  so  signal  a  ser- 
vice, and  also  her  commiseration  for  the  want  of 
a  wife  under  which  he  laboured.  She  had  there- 
fore sent  three  of  her  handsomest  female  slaves, 
among  whom  he  had  only  to  make  his  choice, 
and  he  should  be  amply  provided  with  the  means 
of  supporting  a  family.  At  the  same  time  the 
ladies  were  heard  in  the  other  room  tittering  and 


80  PERSIA. 

whispering  to  each  other,  in  evident  curiosity  on 
whom  the  choice  would  fall.  Our  author  de- 
scribes himself  as  overwhelmed  with  utter  dismay 
and  confusion  at  this  overture,  and  at  the  situa- 
tion in  which  he  found  himself.  Having  given, 
therefore,  the  most  positive  rejection,  he  abruptly 
broke  off,  and  ran  home  to  his  lodgings. 

However  mysterious  Leandro's  conduct  might 
appear  to  the  ladies  of  Bagdad,  his  medical  repu- 
tation was  now  established.  He  was  called  soon 
after  to  Canun  Assendi,  the  King's  sister,  whom 
he  cured  of  an  obstinate  swelling  in  the  neck. 
He  was  admitted  to  the  view  of  this  lady,  and 
obtained  several  important  privileges  for  his  Chris- 
tian countrymen  at  Bagdad.  This  favour  excit- 
ed envy,  and  gave  rise  to  cabals  among  the  cour- 
tiers, who  so  far  succeeded  in  poisoning  the  King's 
mind,  that  he  ordered  Leandro  to  be  thrown  into 
prison.  When  this  was  reported  to  Canun  As- 
sendi, she  rent  her  clothes,  and  immediately  wrote 
to  her  brother  in  such  urgent  terms,  as  procured 
the  immediate  liberation  of  our  unfortunate  doc- 
tor. The  Queen  also,  on  learning  the  durance 
in  which  he  had  been  held,  became  anxious  to 
make  a  grand  display  of  her  gratitude.  By  her 
direction,  a  band  of  Turkish  women  entered  the 
apartment  of  our  author,  who  was  seized  with 
utter  amazement,  and,  above  all,  with  a  dread  of 
some  new  matrimonial  proposition.     The  princi- 


LEANDRO.  81 

pal  lady,  however,  began  a  speech,  stating  the 
deep  concern  which  her  mistress  felt  in  his  suffer- 
ings, and  her  anxiety  to  gratify  every  wish  he 
could  form,  of  which  she  would  now  afford  a  sig- 
nal proof.  If,  therefore,  he  would  give  in  a  com- 
plete list  of  the  persons  by  whom  he  had  been 
injured,  he  should  that  very  evening  be  regaled 
with  all  their  heads.  Leandro,  struck  with  the 
deepest  horror,  rejected  this  offer  in  the  most  un- 
qualified terms.  The  astonished  ladies  departed, 
but  returned  next  day,  repeating  the  proposal, 
and  conjuring  him  not  to  reject  so  kind  and  ge- 
nerous an  offer.  Finding  him  inflexible,  they 
went  away,  shaking  their  heads,  and  declaring 
that  nothing  could  be  done  for  him  now  ;  that  he 
was  evidently  one  predetermined  to  reject  every 
thing  which  could  lead  either  to  his  own  advance-- 
ment,  or  the  gratification  of  his  strongest  wishes. 
Soon  after  this  period  Leandro  was  obliged  by 
ill  health  to  quit  Bagdad,  and  return  to  Paris. 


VOL.  nr. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PERSIA.— RECENT  TRAVELS  AND  PRESENT  STATE. 

Malcolm. — Olivier. — Morier Present  state  of  Persia. 

Its  Antiquities. 

Persia,  as  we  have  seen,  has  from  the  earliest 
ages  been  exposed  in  a  peculiar  degree  to  t.he 
evils  of  foreign  and  domestic  war.  The  seven- 
teenth century,  beyond  any  former  era,  present- 
ed a  series  of  uninterrupted  calamity,  under  which 
scarcely  any  other  nation  ever  groaned.  In  an 
early  part  of  it  the  inroad  of  the  Afghans  carried 
fire  and  sword  to  its  remotest  extremities,  and 
reduced  many  of  its  proudest  capitals  to  heaps  of 
ruins.  The  bloody  reaction  produced  by  Nadir 
Shah,  though  it  vindicated  the  independence  of 
his  country,  scarcely  induced  a  pause  in  the  pro- 
gress of  its  miseries.  Even  the  lustre  thrown 
around  Persia  by  his  foreign  victories  was  only 
like  a  flash  of  lightning  through  the  darkness, 
which  instantly  returned  deeper  than  before. 
After  his  assassination,  Persia  had  two  disputed 
successions ;  one  of  eleven,  and  the  other  of  four- 


PERSIA.  83 

teen  years ;  during  all  which  periods  this  great 
empire  continued  incessantly  tearing  its  own  vitals. 
It  only  enjoyed  repose,  when  a  daring  usurper, 
after  wading  to  the  throne  through  oceans  of 
blood,  held  it  during  his  lifetime  with  a  firm  and 
vigorous  hand.  The  last  of  these  was  Aga  Ma- 
hommed,  an  eunuch,  who  saved  himself  by  his 
energy  and  cruelty  from  the  contempt  which  his 
condition  would  have  inspired  ;  and  not  only  held 
the  throne  during  his  life,  but  transmitted  it  to  his 
nephew,  Futteh  Ali  Khan,  the  present  sovereign. 
Persia,  buried  in  these  intestine  dissensions, 
was  almost  lost  to  the  recollection  of  Europe, 
unless  when  occasionally  a  Russian  gazette  an- 
nounced a  triumph  on  the  Araxes  and  the  Kur. 
From  this  obscurity  it  was  drawn  by  a  series  of 
political  events  either  felt  or  dreaded.  The 
French  revolutionary  government,  inspired  with 
the  most  imbittered  enmity  against  England, 
conceived  the  hope  of  striking  a  blow  against 
her  through  the  medium  of  her  Eastern  posses- 
sions. This  could  only  be  hoped  by  an  overland 
expedition,  in  reference  to  which  the  state  of  the 
Persian  empire  was  an  object  of  primary  import- 
ance. The  Directory  sent  a  mission  under  Oli- 
vier and  Brugniere  to  ascertain  the  precise  state 
of  that  empire  ;  but  they  were  too  busily  employ- 
ed in  Europe  to  take  any  measures  in  conse- 
quence.     The  attention  of  our  Indian  govern- 


Si  PERSIA. 

ment  was  first  drav/n  by  events  occurring  within 
its  own  sphere.  When  it  was  discovered  that 
Tippoo  had  sent  an  embassy  to  the  Shah,  ano- 
ther became  expedient  to  counteract  it.  It  was 
conducted  by  a  native  Indian  ;  but  neither  party 
drew  any  result  from  these  negociations.  After 
the  subversion  of  the  power  of  Tippoo,  India  was 
thrown  into  alarm  by  the  irruption  of  Zemaun 
Shah,  King  of  the  Afghans.  This  was  a  power 
against  which  Persia  was  well  fitted  to  create  a 
diversion  ;  with  a  view  to  which  Colonel  Malcolm 
was  despatched  in  1801  on  an  embassy  to  Futteh 
Ali  Shah.  This  mission  fulfilled  all  its  objects  : 
the  Shah  gladly  embraced  the  opportunity  to  in- 
vade Khorassan,  and  conquered  a  large  portion 
of  it ;  while  his  invasion  had  the  eflfect  of  recall- 
ing this  barbarous  chief  from  his  Indian  expedi- 
tion. The  Persian,  on  this  occasion,  concluded 
a  treaty,  which  was  to  be  binding  on  himself  and 
his  posterity  while  the  world  existed  ;  and  by 
which  all  Frenchmen,  under  pain  of  death,  were 
prohibited  from  entering  Persia.  Many  years, 
however,  had  not  elapsed  when  it  was  learned, 
thai  without  any  regard  to  the  stipulations  of 
this  eternal  treaty,  a  French  agent,  called  Jouan- 
iiin,  iiad  been  allowed  to  settle  at  the  Persian 
couit,  where  he  enjoyed  the  highest  favour,  and 
was  employed  in  disciplining  the  troops  after  the 
European  manner.     It  was  soon  added,  that  in 


MALCOLM.  85 

1808  the  Shah  had  sent  an  embassy  to  Paris. 
Buonaparte,  wholly  intent  upon  foreign  conquest, 
courted  this  oriental  potentate,  partly  as  an  auxi- 
liary against  Russia,  and  partly,  it  is  supposed, 
with  a  remote  view  to  some  future  operations 
against  British  India.  He  returned  the  embassy 
of  Futteh  Ali  with  a  very  splendid  one  under 
General  Gardanne,  which  obtained  a  distinguish- 
ed reception,  and  acquired  the  entire  confidence 
of  the  Persian  court. 

This  was  a  state  of  things  which  it  behoved 
Britain,  by  every  expedient,  to  counteract.  Co- 
lonel (now  General)  Malcolm,  who  had  so  hap- 
pily conducted  the  former  mission,  was  sent 
again  to  renew,  if  possible,  the  ties  which  he  had 
then  formed.  General  Malcolm,  however,  on 
his  arrival  at  Bushire,  found  that  the  French  in- 
fluence was  quite  paramount  in  the  court  of  Per- 
sia, and  that  he  could  not  be  allowed  to  proceed 
to  court  in  the  manner  which  was  suitable  to  the 
dignity  of  his  official  character.  He  proceeded, 
therefore,  no  farther  than  Bushire  ;  and  return- 
ing to  India,  suggested  to  the  government  there 
the  plan  of  overawing  Persia,  by  occupying  with 
a  military  for^^e  the  island  of  Kishme,  which  might 
command  tn  a  great  measure  the  navigation  of 
the  Gulf.  A  force  of  !i^000  men  was  accordingly 
placed  under  his  command  for  this  purpose. 
Meantime  a  great  revolution  had  taken  place  in 


86  PERSIA. 

Persian  politics.  The  entire  failure  of  the  French 
in  their  promises  to  procure  the  evacuation  of 
Georgia,  the  news  of  the  Spanish  revolution,  and 
perhaps  the  natural  caprice  of  an  absolute  mo- 
narch, had  deeply  shaken  French  influence  at  the 
court  of  Teheran.  The  moment  was  favourable 
to  Sir  Harford  Jones,  who  came  out  from  Bri- 
tain on  a  direct  mission  from  the  King ;  and 
who  conceived  himself  justified  in  proceeding, 
notwithstanding  the  failure  of  General  Malcolm. 
This  mission  has  been  well  narrated  by  Mr  Mo- 
rier,  and  has  been  improved  by  Mr  Macdonald 
Kinneir,  as  the  means  of  collecting  much  geogra- 
phical information  ;  so  that  it  has  greatly  refresh- 
ed our  decaying  knowledge  of  the  state  of  West- 
ern Asia. 

The  embassy  landed  at  Bushire,  and  proceeded 
by  the  usual  route  to  Shiras.  This  celebrated 
capital  of  southern  Persia  does  not  seem  to  have 
excited  in  them  quite  the  usual  enthusiasm.  It 
is  represented  as  rather  pleasing  than  grand  ;  and 
the  first  impression  which  the  view  of  it  produced 
was  much  impaired  by  the  meanness  of  its  streets 
and  ordinary  houses.  The  fineness  of  its  climate, 
and  the  beauty  of  its  gardens,  are  fully  admitted. 
It  suffered  like  the  rest  amid  the  desolations  of 
Persia  ;  but  its  trade  has  of  late  considerably  in- 
creased ;  and  it  contains  a  most  magnificent 
bazaar,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  built  by 


JONES.  87 

Kurreem  Khan,  during  the  time  he  made  it  his 
residence.  The  population  is  estimated  at  40,000. 
In  this  journey  the  embassy  not  only  examined 
the  ruins  of  Persepolis,  but  discovered  those  of 
Shapoor,  the  ancient  palace  of  Sapor,  which  had 
escaped  the  research  of  former  European  travel- 
lers. The  view  of  Ispahan  from  the  distance  of 
five  miles,  with  its  palaces,  spires,  and  magnifi- 
cent environs,  appeared  to  them  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  prospects  in  the  world,  and  convey- 
ed no  tidings  of  the  dire  vicissitudes  through 
which  it  had  passed.  These,  however,  became 
fully  visible  when  they  entered  the  city,  and  com- 
pared it  with  the  description  given  by  Chardin. 
Its  walls  were  levelled  with  the  ground  ;  its  vast 
suburbs  were  almost  deserted,  and  a  traveller 
might  ride  through  its  circuit  for  miles,  and  see 
nothing  but  ruins.  The  principal  mosques  and 
palaces,  however,  are  still  standing,  and  have  a 
magnificent  appearance,  though  in  decay.  Aga 
Mahommed  Hussein,  whose  talents  have  raised 
him  to  the  place  of  prime  minister,  being  a  na- 
tive of  Ispahan,  has  erected  there  a  splendid  new 
palace,  and  has  enlarged  and  beautified  many  of 
the  former  edifices  ;  so  that  Ispahan  is  beginning 
to  recover  from  its  downfal.  After  all  it  has  lost, 
it  is  still  supposed  to  contain  a  population  of 
200,000  souls.  The  English  passed  next  through 
Kashan,  one  of  the  many  cities  which  have  had 


88  PERSIA. 

their  turn  as  the  capital  of  Persia.  Though  the 
greater  part  is  now  in  ruins,  it  is  still  very  large 
and  populous,  and  carries  on  a  great  trade  with 
Ghilan.  Koom,  entirely  destroyed  by  the  Af- 
ghans in  1722,  has  been  in  part  rebuilt,  but  bears 
still  the  appearance  of  a  vast  ruin. 

From  Koora  the  mission  proceeded  to  Teheran, 
which,  so  far  as  the  royal  residence  is  concerned, 
forms  the  present  capital  of  Persia.  It  scarcely 
possesses  as  yet  any  grandeur  or  magnificence 
worthy  of  the  name.  Entirely  destroyed  by  the 
Afghans,  it  was  rebuilt  by  Aga  Mahommed,  who 
was  induced,  by  strong  political  considerations,  to 
make  it  his  residence.  Without  being  absolutely 
a  frontier  town,  its  situation  was  convenient  for 
war  against  the  Russians,  now  the  most  formida- 
ble foes  of  Persia  ;  and  it  placed  him  in  the  midst 
of  the  wandering  tribes  from  whom  he  sprung, 
and  who  formed  the  main  strength  of  his  armies. 
Teheran,  however,  has  still  the  aspect  of  a  new 
city,  and  contains  no  edifice  of  importance  ex- 
cept the  arky  which  combines  the  character  of 
citadel  and  royal  palace.  One  great  obstacle  to 
its  extension  is  the  unhealthiness  of  the  air,  which 
prevails  generally  through  the  provinces  on  or 
near  the  Caspian,  and  is  so  extreme,  that  few  of 
the  inhabitants  remain  in  the  city  during  the 
summer  months.  Teheran,  therefore,  does  not 
contain  a  permanent  population  of  more  than  10 


JONKS.  89 

or  15,000,  though  the  military  array  of  the  em- 
pire, when  present,  raises  it  to  60,000. 

The  reception  of  the  embassy,  from  the  time 
of  its  entrance  into  Persia,  had  been  very  distin- 
guished. Sir  Harford  had  made  a  skilful  dis- 
play of  that  magnificence  which  is  peculiarly 
calculated  to  dazzle  the  eyes  of  this  oriental 
people.  He  wore  a  robe  appropriated  only  to 
princes  ;  and  suffered  to  be  seen,  on  proper  oc- 
casions, the  picture  of  the  king  set  with  diamonds, 
and  other  splendid  presents  which  he  was  bearing 
to  the  court.  At  Teheran  his  reception  was  more 
than  ever  flattering,  though  in  its  narrow  streets 
and  miserable  buildings  he  saw  nothing  indica- 
tive of  royalty.  Every  thing  rich  or  splendid 
seemed  collected  round  the  throne,  while  all 
around  was  poverty,  either  real  or  affected.  The 
house  in  which  they  were  lodged,  though  that  of 
the  second  minister,  afforded  accommodations  in- 
ferior to  those  obtained  at  Shiras  or  Ispahan. 
The  minister  soon  waited  upon  him,  attended  by 
a  person  who,  in  Europe,  does  not  usually  adhere 
so  closely  to  public  functionaries — the  royal  poet. 
A  great  part  of  the  conversation  consisted  in  load- 
ing this  personage  with  the  most  extravagant 
praises,  which  seem  to  have  been  given  and  re- 
ceived alike  without  scruple  or  reserve.  All 
agreed  that  he  was  superior  to  every  other  bard 
of  the  age,  and  had  no  equal  on  earth  ;  while 


90  PERSIA. 

some  hesitated  not  to  exalt  him  above  Hafiz  and 
Ferdusi.  The  king  owned  his  merits  in  a  more 
solid  manner,  by  giving  him  a  gold  toman,  or  up- 
wards of  a  guinea,  for  every  couplet ;  which,  after 
all,  does  not  perhaps  exceed  what  the  booksellers 
of  London  or  Edinburgh  have  paid  to  some  of 
our  popular  poets. 

In  this  friendly  disposition  between  the  parties, 
the  ceremonies  of  introduction  at  court  were 
easily  arranged.  One  necessary  preparation  was, 
that  the  mission  should  be  arrayed  in  green  slip- 
pers and  red  stockings.  The  narrow  streets,  as 
they  passed  through,  v.  re  crowded  with  specta- 
tors. On  entering  the  royal  hall,  they  were  led 
between  files  of  troops  disciplined  in  the  Euro- 
pean manner,  who  performed  the  platoon  exer- 
cise as  they  passed.  At  the  end  of  the  hall  was 
a  small  and  mean  door,  which  being  opened,  in- 
troduced them  into  a  dark  and  narrow  passage, 
terminating  in  another  door  worse  than  that  of 
any  English  stable.  This  ushered  them,  however, 
into  a  very  handsome  court,  adorned  with  canals 
and  fountains  bordered  with  trees,  at  the  end  of 
which  sat  the  king  richly  dressed.  The  presents 
were  then  delivered  to  the  prime  minister,  and 
the  ambassador  began  a  speech  in  English,  the 
sound  of  which  seemed  a  good  deal  to  startle  the 
monarch  ;  but  on  a  translation  being  given,  his 
surprise  was  changed  into  pleasure.     He  then  in- 


JONES.  91 

quired  for  the  king  of  England,  and  whether  he 
was  son  to  him  who  had  reigned  at  the  time  of 
the  last  embassy.  On  being  assured  that  the  very 
same  king  was  now  reigning,  he  was  heard  to  re- 
mark, that  in  this  point  also  the  French  had  told 
lies  ;  for  it  seems  they  had  circulated  a  report  of 
the  king  of  England's  death.  The  Shah  was 
about  forty-five  ;  and  beneath  a  large  black  beard 
and  mustachios,  rather  an  agreeable  countenance 
appeared.  He  entered  into  a  pretty  long  con- 
versation on  literary  subjects,  being  himself  a 
professed  patron  of  learning. 

After  this  interview,  the  ambassador  began  to 
treat  with  the  ministers  relative  to  the  terms  of 
the  proposed  treaty.  This  negociation  was  con- 
ducted in  a  manner  very  remote  from  European 
ideas  of  decorum.  The  discussions  were  some- 
times accompanied  with  violent  contention,  and 
at  other  times  were  interrupted  by  loud  bursts 
of  laughter.  Once,  amid  the  most  serious  deli- 
beration, the  minister  broke  off  by  asking  the 
ambassador  to  tell  the  history  of  the  world  from 
the  creation.  Afterwards,  when  he  had  promised 
to  send  a  copy  of  the  treaty  fully  written  out,  the 
ambassador  received  instead  of  it  a  large  citron. 
When  this  treaty  was  at  length  produced,  the 
secretary,  who  valued  himself  on  being  the  finest 
writer  in  Persia,  had  so  filled  it  with  oriental 
figures  and  conceits,  that  it  no  longer  retained 


92  PERSIA. 

any  intelligible  meaning.  Sir  Harford  having 
declared  it,  in  this  condition,  to  bear  no  offi- 
cial value,  the  secretary  was  most  reluctantly  in- 
duced to  prune  it  into  something  more  level  to 
an  European  capacity.  When  that  minister  came 
finally  to  apply  the  seals,  the  Premier  called  out, 
"  Strike  !  Strike  !'*  while  all  the  Persians  pre- 
sent were  exclaiming,  *'  God  grant  the  friend- 
*•  ship  between  the  two  nations  may  be  lasting ! 
*'  God  grant  it !  God  grant  it  !** 

Irregularly  as  the  negociation  had  been  con- 
ducted, its  result  was  completely  auspicious.  The 
British  obtained  all  their  demands ;  while  Gar- 
danne  received  his  dismissal,  being  prohibited  at 
the  same  time  to  go  by  the  way  of  Georgia,  lest 
he  should  hold  communication  with  Russia.  A 
few  days  after,  his  whole  train  received  instruc- 
tions to  follow  their  chief;  and  Persia  remain- 
ed entirely  subject  to  English  influence.  After 
the  departure  of  Sir  Harford,  Sir  Gore  Ouseley 
went  thither  as  a  permanent  resident. 

Persia,  as  surveyed  by  the  British  missions, 
presents  a  sad  reverse  from  the  picture  of  that 
great  empire  drawn  by  Chardin.  It  never  could 
boast  indeed  of  very  high  culture.  If  we  except 
the  great  frontier  rivers  of  the  Euphrates,  Tigris, 
and  Araxes,  which  formed  always  a  precarious  part 
of  the  empire,  and  are  now  entirely  wrested  from 
it,  Persia  consists  of  an  immense,  dry,  salt,  plain. 


PRESENT  STATf:.  93 

It  would  therefore  be  very  little  productive  but 
for  the  ranges  of  mountains  which  run  through  it, 
the  streams  descending  from  which  form  most 
beautiful  and  luxuriant  valleys,  whose  charms  are 
vaunted  beyond  almost  any  other  spot  on  earth. 
These  valleys  form  the  only  cultivated  and  highly 
peopled  portions ;  the  rest  being  inhabited  by  the 
Iliats,  a  race  of  warlike  and  wandering  shepherds, 
whose  habits  belong  rather  to  the  Tartar  races 
than  to  those  who  inhabit  the  civilized  southern 
empires.  As  the  husbandman,  however,  ruined 
by  war  and  oppression,  has  deserted  his  fields,  the 
Iliats  have  descended  from  the  mountains  to  oc- 
cupy his  place ;  and  many  tracts,  bearing  traces 
of  former  extensive  culture,  are  now  covered  by 
these  Nomadic  hordes.  Various  spots  which  were 
formerly  the  richest,  have  been  rendered  wholly 
unfit  for  culture,  by  the  drying  up  of  those  artifi- 
cial canals  with  which  they  were  irrigated.  Often 
the  salt  with  which  the  soil  and  waters  are  im- 
pregnated, has  accumulated,  and  rendered  the 
formerly  rich  soil  incapable  of  producing  any  thing 
but  soda  and  other  saline  plants.  Almost  every 
quarter  being  now  exposed  to  the  cheepaos  or 
forays  of  the  wandering  tribes,  the  husbandman 
nowhere  enjoys  a  moment's  security.  The  power 
and  license  of  these  marauders  was  experienced 
by  Mr  Morier,  when,  in  journeying  along  the 
plain  of  Shuster,  he  was  attacked  by  a  band  whom 


94  PKUSIA. 

he  defeated,  and  carried  one  of  their  chiefs  pri- 
soner to  Ram  Hormuz.  The  governor  of  that 
place,  however,  declared,  that  really  he  did  not 
feel  at  all  inclined  to  undertake  the  punishment 
of  so  great  a  person,  and  that  the  wisest  plan 
would  be  to  liberate  the  prisoner,  on  condition  of 
his  escorting  him  safely  through  the  rest  of  the 
desert.  Mr  Morier  took  the  hint,  and  set  out 
next  day  under  the  guard  of  banditti,  with  whom 
the  day  before  he  had  contended  for  his  life.  In 
consequence  of  these  disorders,  Olivier  does  not 
conceive  that  one-twentieth  part  of  the  lands 
throughout  this  great  empire  can  be  in  a  state  of 
cultivation.  Khorassan,  in  particular,  which  was 
formerly  covered  with  populous  and  flourishing 
cities,  and  the  seat  of  an  extensive  trade,  is  now 
described  by  Mr  Kinneir  as  almost  entirely  laid 
waste,  by  the  continual  inroads  of  the  barbarous 
chiefs  who  occupy  or  border  upon  it.  The  south- 
ern province  of  Khusistan,  the  best  watered  part 
of  the  empire,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  powerful 
dynasties,  is  now  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the 
bordering  deserts.  Even  the  Caspian  provinces, 
which  surpass  all  the  others  in  luxuriant  fertility, 
though  these  benefits  are  alloyed  by  the  pestilential 
air,  retain  indeed  some  traces  of  former  culture, 
yet  are  subject  to  such  oppression,  that  the  inha- 
bitants are  said  to  long  for  the  arrival  of  their  ene- 
mies the  Russians.     Silk  is  still  produced  in  the 


PRESENT  STATE.  95 

different  provinces  of  Persia,  particularly  those 
on  the  Caspian  ;  but  that  great  export  trade 
which,  in  the  time  of  Jenkinson,  made  intercourse 
with  Persia  so  eagerly  sought  for,  and  which 
Chardin  reckoned  at  nearly  six  millions  of  pounds, 
is  stated  by  Olivier  no  longer  to  exist.  Wool  is 
produced  abundantly,  chiefly  from  the  long-tailed 
sheep,  the  quality  of  which  is  various,  but  nowhere 
equal  to  that  of  Spain  and  England.  The  goats 
of  Kerman  yield  also  a  line  species,  suited  to  the 
manufacture  of  shawls,  and  other  kinds  are  af- 
forded by  the  different  species  of  the  camel. 
Cotton  is  raised  in  considerable  plenty,  but  al- 
most solely  for  the  supply  of  internal  manufac- 
tures. The  sugar  cane,  in  the  southern  provinces, 
ripens  sooner  than  in  the  West  Indies,  though 
they  do  not  understand  so  well  the  art  of  refining 
it.  Roses  are  cultivated  with  the  view  of  pro- 
ducing that  essence  which  is  valued  in  the  East 
above  all  other  perfumes. 

The  Persians  excel  in  many  manufactures,  par- 
ticularly in  works  of  ornament  and  splendour,  for 
the  use  of  the  great.  They  surpass  the  Turks, 
and  perhaps  even  Europeans,  in  the  brilliancy  of 
their  colours.  They  have  caught  to  the  latter 
that  exquisite  blue  called  ultramarine,  the  mate- 
rial of  which,  the  lapis  lazuli^  is  found  abundant- 
ly in  some  of  the  mountains  of  Khorassan.  Those 
rich  carpets,  which  we   call   Turkey  from   the 

47 


9G  PERSIA. 

channel  by  which  we  receive  them,  are  manufac- 
tured by  the  Iliats,  or  wandering  tribes,  in  the 
plains  of  Persia.  The  Persians  excel  particularly 
in  brocade  and  embroidery ;  silk,  manufactured 
either  by  itself,  or  mixed  with  cotton  and  wool, 
forms  their  staple.  Great  works  of  tapestry, 
formed  of  silk  and  wool,  embellished  with  gold, 
were  carried  on  at  court  during  the  era  of  its 
splendour  ;  and  the  art  still  exists,  if  a  more  fortu- 
nate period  should  enable  it  to  come  again  into 
action.  Leather,  paper,  porcelain  nearly  equal  to 
that  of  China,  and  shawls  similar  though  inferior 
to  those  of  Cachemire,  are  also  enumerated  among 
the  manufactures  of  Persia. 

Trade  in  this  empire  is  at  a  very  low  ebb.  It 
has  no  port  on  the  Persian  Gulf  except  Bushire, 
and  the  small  marine  which  it  once  maintained 
there  is  entirely  annihilated.  The  Caspian  never 
was  nor  could  be  the  seat  of  any  extensive  trade  ; 
since,  besides  its  difficult  navigation,  the  only 
country  with  which  it  affi^rded  a  communication, 
was  the  north  of  Russia.  Even  this  is  nearly 
closed  by  the  attitude  of  habitual  hostility  in 
which  the  two  powers  are  now  placed  towards 
each  other. 

Amid  all  these  changes,  the  Persian  character, 
like  every  other  thing  in  the  East  connected  with 
social  existence,  has  remained  without  any  sensi- 
ble alteration.     They  are  still  gay,  polished,  flat- 


PRESENT  STATE.  97 

tering,  deceitful,  eager  in  acquiring,  lavish  in 
spending.  The  English  call  them  the  Parisians 
of  Asia.  The  late  and  present  Shah  have  done 
all  they  could  to  make  them  a  less  jovial  and 
merry  people  than  heretofore.  The  Mahometan 
prohibition  against  wine,  which  was  held  so  cheap 
by  the  early  Sophis,  is  now  enforced  under  pain 
of  death.  The  delicious  wines  of  Shiras  serve 
merely  as  an  article  of  exportation  to  India.  The 
love  of  learning  does  not  seem  to  have  declined, 
though  there  is  no  longer  the  same  number  of 
students,  or  opportunities  of  instruction.  The 
attendants  on  the  Madresse,  or  college  of  Ispa- 
han, are  reduced  from  four  or  five  thousand  to  as 
many  hundreds.  The  recent  travellers  do  not 
notice,  so  much  as  Chardin,  the  general  prevalence 
of  private  education.  The  sciences  cultivated 
are  exactly  the  same.  Astrology  continues  the 
high  road  to  honour  and  fortune,  and  poetry  is 
cultivated  with  the  same  enthusiasm  as  ever, 
though  we  have  not  been  favoured  with  any  spe- 
cimens of  its  recent  effusions.  The  same  religious 
tolerance  is  still  found  to  exist,  unless  in  respect 
to  the  Guebres,  or  ancient  worshippers  of  fire. 
This  unfortunate  race  has  now  been  rooted  out  of 
all  the  territories  subject  to  the  Persian  sway.  A 
few  small  bodies  only  have  found  refuge  in  the 
unfrequented  towns  of  Kerman,   particularly  in 

VOL.  III.  G 


98  PERSIA. 

Yeyd,  where  there  are  supposed  to  be  about  four 
thousand. 

Olivier,  who  had  resided  long  both  among  the 
Persians  and  the  Turks,  remarks  a  striking  con- 
trast between  these  two  nations.  The  former 
are  polite,  active,  and  industrious,  while  the  lat- 
ter are  brutal,  slothful,  and  ignorant.  The  very 
dress  of  the  Turk  is  suited  only  to  shew  an  indo- 
lent movement,  while  that  of  the  Persian  leaves 
all  the  motions  at  liberty.  At  the  same  time, 
turbulent  and  seditious  movements,  as  well  as 
great  crimes,  are  more  frequent  in  Turkey  than 
in  Persia.  Meanwhile  he  allows  to  the  Turk 
some  estimable  qualities,  magnanimity,  self  es- 
teem, steadiness  in  friendship,  and  gratitude  ;  all 
which  are  wanting  in  the  Persian.  The  Persian 
ministers  are  more  enlightened,  and  more  atten- 
tive to  the  good  of  their  country,  but  more  in- 
triguing and  artful.  Had  Persia  been  placed, 
like  Turkey,  in  close  contact  with  the  powers  of 
Europe,  it  would  by  this  time,  he  conceives,  have 
been  entirely  European* 

The  despotic  rule  of  the  Sophi  is  maintained 
without  any  thing  which  can  be  called  a  standing 
army.  Even  the  royal  guards,  10,000  in  num- 
ber, are  merely  a  body  of  militia,  who  have  lands 
assigned  them  around  the  capital,  and  are  ready 
to  be  called  out  at  a  moment's  warning.  A  corps 
of  3000  royal  slaves  is  the  best  disciplined,  and. 


PRESENT  STATE.  99 

but  for  its  small  number,  the  most  efficient  of  any 
in  the  empire.  The  Shah*s  main  dependance, 
however,  is  in  the  cavalry  of  the  wandering 
tribes,  whose  Khans,  when  called  upon,  are  al- 
ways ready  to  attend  the  King  with  a  proportion 
of  their  vassals.  Of  this  species  of  force  it  is 
said,  that,  by  a  great  effort,  he  can  raise  from 
150,000  to  200,000.  They  receive  no  regular  pay, 
but  in  return  have  ample  license  to  plunder ;  in 
the  hope  of  which,  many  of  them  are  said  fully  to 
expect  that  they  shall  have  an  annual  campaign. 
The  Persians  have  no  tactics,  no  system,  no  ge- 
neralship. They  do  not  distinguish  between  the 
civil  and  military  professions ;  so  that  if  the 
King  does  not  take  the  field  in  person,  the  army 
is  commanded  by  the  prime  minister,  although  he 
never  perhaps  saw  a  shot  fired.  Persia  is  now,  as  it 
has  always  been,  easy  to  conquer,  but  difficult  to 
hold.  It  presents  nothing  which  can  make  head 
against  the  attack  of  a  disciplined  army;  but  the 
vast  bodies  of  irregular  horse  which  hover  con- 
tinually round  the  invading  force,  while  travers- 
ing the  expanse  of  its  measureless  plains,  gra- 
dually wear  down,  and  at  length  overwhelm  the 
largest  army.  It  was  thus  that  Crassus  and 
Julian  experienced  the  most  signal  disasters  with 
which  Roman  armies  were  ever  overwhelmed. 
If  the  modern  Arab  and  Tartar  warriors  have 
been  more  fortunate,  it  is  chiefly  from  making 


100  PERSIA. 

their  invasions  with  a  similar  force,  more  highly 
disciplined  and  inured  to  war. 

Our  recent  travellers  have  been  active  in  ex- 
ploring the  antiquities  of  Persia.  Of  these  the 
most  remarkable  is  that  huge  mass  of  ruins  in 
the  south,  which  is  ascertained  to  belong  to  that 
great  palace  of  Darius  at  Persepolis,  to  which 
Alexander  set  fire  in  a  fit  of  frenzy.  It  is  decid- 
edly considered  by  Mr  Kinneir  to  be  one  of  the 
most  ancient  as  well  as  magnificent  structures 
in  the  world.  In  point  of  art,  however,  it  is 
not  supposed  to  vie  with  the  classic  edifices  of 
Greece.  According  to  Persian  tradition,  this 
superb  edifice  was  completed  in  the  reign  of 
Humai,  the  mother  of  Darius  Nothus.  To  the 
south  of  Shiras,  about  sixteen  miles  to  the  east  of 
Kazeroon,  are  the  ruins  of  Shapour,  situated  in 
a  wild  romantic  spot  on  the  banks  of  a  rapid 
river,  and  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  rocky  and  pre- 
cipitous mountains.  The  buildings  are  adorned 
with  numerous  sculptures,  some  of  them  tolerably 
executed,  representing  the  exploits  of  the  Sassa- 
man  dynasty.  Sapor,  as  its  founder,  evidently 
gave  his  name  to  the  city,  but  the  Persian  annals 
represent  another  to  have  formerly  existed  on 
its  site,  and  to  have  been  destroyed  by  Alexan- 
der. At  Taici  Bostan,  near  Kermanschaw,  is  a 
mountain  in  which  large  excavations  have  been 
formed,  accompanied  with  a  variety  of  sculptured 


ANTIQUITIES.  101 

figures,  some  of  which  would  not  have  disgraced 
the  finest  artists  of  Greece  and  Rome.  They 
contain  inscriptions  in  the  Pehlvi,  or  ancient  lan- 
guage, and  appear,  like  the  sculptures  of  Sha- 
pour,  to  celebrate  the  exploits  of  the  Princes  of 
the  Sassaman  dynasty. 

After  all,  it  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates 
and  Tigris,  that  the  eye  of  the  traveller  wanders 
in  search  of  the  mightiest  monuments  of  ancient 
grandeur.  It  is  there  that  we  must  find  all  that 
remains  of  Nineveh  and  of  Babylon,  those  first 
capitals  of  the  world.  Desolation  covers  alike 
them  and  the  once  magnificent  country  in  which 
they  were  situated.  "  The  humble  tent  of  the 
"  Arab  now  occupies  the  spot  formerly  adorned 
"  with  the  palaces  of  Kings ;  and  his  flocks  pro- 
"  cure  a  scanty  pittance  of  food,  amid  the  fallen 
"  fragments  of  ancient  magnificence.  The  banks 
"  of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  once  so  prolific, 
"  are  now  for  the  most  part  covered  with  impene- 
"  trable  brushwood  ;  and  the  interior  of  the  pro- 
"  vince,  which  was  traversed  and  fertilized  with 
"  innumerable  canals,  is  destitute  of  either  inha- 
"  bitants  or  vegetation."  The  site  of  Nineveh 
appears  to  be  ascertained  at  the  village  of  Nunia 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris,  opposite  to  Mosul. 
Here  are  found  a  rampart  and  fosse  four  miles  in 
circumference  ;  but  Mr  Kinneir  believes  these 
to  belong  to  a  city  founded  subsequently  to  the 


102  PERSIA. 

time  of  Adnan  j  so  that  of  the  ancient  Nineveh 
there  exists  not  now  the  sHghtest  trace. 

About  sixteen  miles  to  the  south  of  Bagdad, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tigris,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Greek  city  of  Seleucia,  and  the  Per- 
sian capital  of  Ctesiphon.  All  that  remains  of 
the  former  is  the  rampart  and  fosse  ;  but  Ctesi- 
phon is  still  distinguished  by  the  Tauk  Kesra,  or 
palace  of  Chosroes,  presenting  a  front  of  SOO 
feet  in  length,  160  deep,  and  106  feet  high. 

On  the  Euphrates,  almost  due  west  from  Se- 
leucia, travellers  have  observed  with  wonder  re- 
mains which  seem  clearly  ascertained  to  be  those 
of  Babylon.  The  place  of  this  proud  capital  of 
the  ancient  world  is  marked  only  by  four  or  five 
masses,  or  rather  mountains,  of  bricks,  earth,  and 
rubbish,  piled  over  each  other.  They  have  been 
observed  by  several  travellers  ;  but  the  late  sur- 
vey of  Mr  Rich  is  so  peculiarly  diligent  and  mi- 
nute, that  it  may  supersede  every  other.  The 
greatest  number  of  ruins  are  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Euphrates,  immediately  north  of  the  town 
of  Hillah.  Here  is  found  a  mass  called  the 
mound  of  Amran,  1100  yards  long,  800  broad, 
and  50  or  60  feet  high,  consisting  of  earth  formed 
from  decomposed  brick,  and  strewed  with  various 
species  of  fragments.  On  the  other  side  of  an 
intervening  valley  is  an  edifice,  called  by  the  na- 
tives the   Kasr,   or  palace,  forming  a  square  of 


ANTIQUITIES.  103 

700  yards.  It  contains  several  walls  in  a  pretty 
entire  state,  eight  feet  thick,  and  ornamented 
with  some  remains  ot"  painting  and  scnlpture. 
The  bricks  are  of  the  finest  kind,  and  cemented 
with  lime  ;  a  material  not  observed  by  any  forr 
mer  traveller,  but  which  was  found  to  be  much 
more  efficacious  than  the  usual  cement  of  bitu^ 
men.  A  mile  to  the  north  of  the  Kasr  is  another 
mass  considerably  loftier,  called  the  ^Mujelibe, 
It  is  an  irregular  oblong,  the  sides  being  fron) 
200  to  136  feet,  and  the  height  141  feet.  Th§ 
summit  is  covered  with  innumerable  fragments  of 
pottery,  brick,  bitumen,  pebbles,  shells,  and  sun^ 
dry  other  substances.  It  contained  many  dens  of 
wild  beasts,  and  its  cavities  are  filled  with  bat? 
and  owls.  Two  long  galleries,  containing  coffins 
in  the  highest  preservation,  were  extracted  ;  and 
it  was  conceived  that  the  same  recess,  if  explored, 
would  have  been  found  entirely  filled  with  them. 
This  last  feature,  which  forms  the  most  conspi- 
cuous object  of  all  these  remains,  has  by  most 
travellers  been  supposed  to  be  the  Tower  of 
Belus,  the  most  lofty  and  conspicuous  of  all  the 
edifices  which  were  the  boast  of  ancient  Babylon. 
Next  to  it  was  the  Great  Palace,  which  miglit 
have  been  found  in  the  Kasr,  had  it  not  been  de- 
scribed to  be  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
To  solve  this  difficulty,  it  has  been  supposed  that 
the  Euphrates  has  changed  its  course,  as  in  fact 


104  PERSIA. 

it  does  take  a  sudden  bend  eastward  after  passing 
the  Mujelibe.  There  is,  however,  another  still 
greater  ruin  ;  but  which  being  situated  six  miles 
south-west  of  Hillah,  can  scarcely  be  supposed  to 
have  formed  part  even  of  the  vast  enceinte  of  Ba- 
bylon. It  is  a  conical  mound,  'J6'2  yards  in  cir- 
cumference, surmounted  by  a  brick  pile,  which 
raises  it  to  235  feet.  The  bricks  are  of  the  finest 
kind,  strongly  cemented  with  lime,  and  contain- 
ing inscriptions.  The  ground  to  a  considerable 
extent  round  is  strewed  with  ruins.  Mr  Rich  at 
the  first  sight  of  the  Birs  Nimrod,  as  this  pile  is 
called,  could  not  help  exclaiming,  that  it,  if  any, 
must  be  the  Tower  of  Belus.  He  could  not  re- 
concile such  an  idea  with  the  ancient  descrip- 
tion, or  with  the  supposed  limits  of  ancient  Ba- 
bylon. There  seems,  therefore,  some  impenetra- 
ble mystery,  which  must  render  it  for  ever  im- 
possible for  us  to  harmonize  the  picture  of  what 
Babylon  was,  with  those  vast  and  shapeless  mo- 
numents, which  alone  attest  to  the  eye  its  former 
existence. 


CHAPTER  III. 

PILGRIMAGES  TO  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

Arculfus —  Willibald. — Bernard. —  The  Crusades. — Bouldesell. 

Brocquiere.  —  Breidenbach. — Baumgarten Georgexvitz 

Alder sey. — Sandys. 

Throughout  all  the  East,  and  in  Europe  dur- 
ing the  middle  ages,  one  of  the  most  important 
and  meritorious  religious  duties  was  pilgrimage. 
Doubts  may  be  raised  if  it  has  not  been  too 
strongly  condemned  by  the  severe  reason  of  mo- 
dern Europe.  The  view  of  a  spot  which  has  been 
the  theatre  of  heroic  actions,  or  even  the  abode 
of  genius,  inspires  always  strong  emotions  in 
the  susceptible  mind.  Much  deeper  must  be 
the  feelings  of  the  pious  visitant  in  beholding, 
scenes  dignified  by  the  presence  of  beings  so 
much  more  exalted,  and  events  affecting  the 
highest  destinies  of  himself  and  his  species.  Pil- 
grimage, too,  affording  almost  the  only  motive  for 
which,  at  such  a  period,  distant  journeys  are  un- 
dertaken, may  be  the  means  of  opening  the  minds 
of  men,  and  enlarging  the  sphere  of  their  ideas. 
It  even   opens  new  channels  to   commerce,    of 


106  HOLY  LAND. 

which  these  holy  places  usually  become  distin- 
guished emporia.  The  greatest  evil  attendant 
upon  the  practice  is  not  only  the  high  merit  which 
it  is  supposed  to  secure,  independent  of  any  in- 
ward piety  or  virtuous  conduct,  but  the  expecta- 
tion that  it  will  of  itself  wipe  away  every  sin, 
however  enormous,  of  which  the  pilgrims  have 
been  guilty.  Nay,  with  such  confidence,  it  is 
said,  do  they  look  forward  to  this  wiping  off  all 
their  iniquities,  that  they  do  not  hesitate  in  their 
journey  to  add  to  their  list.  Multiplied  ac- 
counts represent  the  deportment  of  these  visi- 
tants of  the  holy  shrines  to  be  by  no  means  of  that 
edifying  complexion  which  their  object  would 
indicate. 

The  tales  of  these  peregrinations  are  almost 
innumerable  ;  but  whatever  edification  they  may 
have  afforded  to  those  engaged  in  them,  they 
yield  little  to  gratify  the  profane  inquirer.  Father 
Noe  even  carefully  inculcates  it  as  the  first  duty 
of  a  pilgrim,  to  quench  all  spirit  of  vain  curiosity, 
otherwise  he  will  return  without  any  benefit  to 
his  soul.  These  travels,  however,  are  the  earliest 
of  any  performed  in  modern  times  ;  and  by  very 
diligent  search  we  may  glean  from  them  views  of 
the  state  of  society,  and  of  the  human  mind  in 
those  remote  periods,  which  we  should  vainly  at- 
tempt to  draw  from  any  other  source. 


ARCULFUS.  107 

About  705  Jerusalem  and  its  holy  places  were 
surveyed  by  Arculfus,  from  whose  report  Adam- 
nan  drew  up  a  description  of  them.  From  the 
introduction  it  appears,  that  Jerusalem,  like  Mec- 
ca and  Haridwar,  combined  an  extensive  trade 
with  its  pilgrimage.  The  15th  of  September  was 
the  era  of  a  great  fair,  when  the  holy  city  was 
crowded  with  an  innumerable  multitude  buying 
and  selling  their  various  commodities.  The  mul- 
titude of  camels  and  other  animals,  with  which 
the  streets  were  thronged,  caused  an  accumula- 
tion of  filth  which  became  extremely  offensive, 
and  rendered  walking  difficult.  Then,  however, 
a  miraculous  rain  took  place  ;  and  this  *'  inunda- 
**  tion  of  celestial  waters,"  collecting  all  the  mire, 
carried  it  down  the  steep  and  sloping  streets  by 
the  valley  of  Jehosaphat  into  the  brook  Kedron. 
Jerusalem,  he  says,  contains  many  splendid  edifi- 
ces ;  but  he  carefully  avoids  describing  any,  ex- 
cept the  temple  of  Calvary  and  the  holy  cross. 
It  was  supported  by  twelve  pillars  of  wonderful 
magnitude,  and  had  eight  gates  looking  to  the 
different  quarters  of  the  city.  In  the  interior 
was  a  smaller  edifice,  entirely  covered  with  mar- 
ble, surmounted  by  a]  gold  cupola,  at  the  top  of 
which  was  a  golden  cross.  Within  was  the  tomb, 
seven  feet  in  length,  not  divided  into  two  by  a 
fragment  of  rock,  as  it  seems  had  been  reported, 
but  simple,  and  in  which  twelve  lamps,  in  honour 


108  HOLY  LAND. 

of  the  twelve  apostles,  were  kept  burning  night 
and  day.  Close  to  this  was  the  church  of  Con- 
stantine,  distinguished  as  the  place  where  the 
true  cross,  with  those  on  which  the  two  thieves 
were  crucified,  had  been  miraculously  discover- 
ed under  ground.  In  these  places  our  pious 
traveller  saw  sundry  objects,  which  all  Jerusalem 
constantly  flocked  to  handle  and  kiss  with  the 
profoundest  reverence.  Such  were  the  cup  used 
at  the  last  supper  ;  the  vsponge  on  which  the  vine-' 
gar  was  poured  ;  the  lance  which  pierced  the  side 
of  Christ ;  the  cloth  in  which  he  was  wrapt ;  also 
another  cloth  woven  by  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  in 
which  were  represented  the  figure  of  the  Saviour 
and  the  twelve  Apostles.  From  Jerusalem  Ar- 
culfus  went  to  Jericho,  where  he  found  nothing 
except  the  roofless  walls  of  Rahab's  house ;  all 
the  rest  was  planted  with  corn  and  vines.  He 
proceeded  to  the  Jordan,  to  view  the  scene  of 
Christ's  baptism,  on  which  a  church  had  been 
erected.  He  describes  the  waters  of  the  river  as 
white  like  milk,  in  consequence  of  the  salt  with 
which  they  had  been  impregnated.  His  next 
visit  was  to  Bethlehem,  where  he  viewed  the 
scenes  of  the  nativity,  particularly  the  water  in 
which  the  holy  infant  had  been  washed,  and 
which  during  so  many  ages  had  never  dried  up  or 
diminished.  He  proceeded  north  to  Damascus, 
which  appears  always  as  the  metropolis  of  this 


AUCULFUS WILLIBALD.  109 

part  of  Asia.  It  is  described  as  a  great  and  royal 
city,  surrounded  with  a  wide  circuit  of  walls, 
strengthened  with  lofty  towers.  He  then  return- 
ed into  Europe  by  the  way  of  Constantinople. 

About  786  another  Benedictine,  Willibald, 
a  Saxon  by  birth,  raised  himself  by  pilgrimage  to 
a  distinguished  place  in  the  Romish  calendar. 
From  his  infancy  he  had  been  distinguished  by  a 
sage  and  pious  disposition  ;  and  on  emerging 
from  boyhood  was  seized  with  an  anxious  desire 
to  *'  try  the  unknown  ways  of  peregrination, — 
"  to  pass  over  the  huge  wastes  of  ocean  to  the 
"  outer  bounds  of  earth."  Rome  was  the  spot 
which  appeared  to  him  placed  at  this  mighty  and 
fearful  distance.  On  disclosing  the  project  to 
"  his  carnal  father,"  he  was  most  earnestly  dis- 
suaded from  it,  and  entreated  not  to  forsake  his 
country  and  all  his  friends,  to  whom,  from  so  re- 
mote a  region,  he  could  have  little  hope  of  re- 
turning. "  The  warlike  soldier  of  Christ,*'  how- 
ever, persevered,  and  at  length  extorted  the  con- 
sent of  his  reluctant  parents.  He  set  sail  from  a 
port  which  he  calls  Hamela  Mutha,  and  after  a 
long  voyage  arrived  at  Lucca.  Thence,  crossing 
many  plains  and  lofty  mountains,  he  found  his 
way  to  Rome.  After  paying  his  devotions  at  the 
shrine  of  St  Peter,  he  was  seized  with  a  desire  to 
extend  his  pilgrimage,  and  to  visit  *'  the  delight- 


110  HOLY  LAND. 

"  ful  and  desirable  city  of  Jerusalem."  Taking 
ship  at  Rhegium,  and  touching  at  Sicily  and  Sa- 
mos,  he  was  landed  at  Ephesus  in  Asia  Minor. 
He  employed  himself  here  in  visiting  the  tomb  of 
the  Seven  Sleepers,  and  the  cave  in  which  St 
John  wrote  the  Apocalypse.  Hence'he  proceed- 
ed with  a  companion  to  Emesa,  distinguished  by 
a  great  church  built  by  St  Helena.  Here  they 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  "  Pagan  Saracens,*' 
who  threw  them  into  prison,  not  knowing  whence 
they  were,  and  suspecting  them  as  spies.  An  old 
man,  however,  having  examined  them,  and  being 
told  their  object,  courteously  observed,  that  all 
men  did  well  to  fulfil  their  law.  Yet  they  re- 
mained in  prison  ;  but  a  merchant  and  a  Spaniard 
treated  them  with  great  kindness,  took  them  to 
the  bath  and  to  church,  where  curiosity  attracted 
a  great  crowd  of  spectators.  At  length  these 
two  friends  brought  them  before  the  King,  who 
inquired,  "  Whence  are  these  men  ?"  The  an- 
swer was,  "  From  the  western  region  of  the 
*'  world,  where  the  sun  sets,  and  beyond  which 
"  we  know  of  no  land,  but  only  water."  The 
King  replied,  "  Wherefore  should  we  punish 
"  them,  they  have  committed  no  fault  against  us  ; 
*'  give  them  life,  and  suffer  them  to  go."  The 
pilgrims  were  therefore  allowed  to  proceed  with- 
out molestation  to  the  Holy  Land.  They  visited 
Nazareth,  Cana,  Tabor,  and  the  Jordan,  which 


WILLIBALD BERNARD.  Ill 

rises,  ^t  is  pretended,  from  two  fountains,  Jor  and 
Dan.  Willibald  then  proceeded  to  Jerusalem, 
and  gives  a  catalogue  of  the  holy  places  similar  to 
that  of  Arculfus  ;  but  it  were  greatly  too  much 
to  expect  from  so  eminent  a  saint  any  notice  of 
earthly  objects.  We  shall  therefore  leave  him, 
without  further  notice,  to  depart  and  embark  at 
Ptolemais  (Acre). 

A  third  visitant  of  Palestine  at  this  very  early 
period  was  Bernard,  who  proceeded  thither  in 
878.  He  came  first  to  Barre  (Bari)  in  Italy, 
which  it  seems  was  then  under  Saracen  dominion. 
He  found  a  prince,  by  name  Suldanus  (Sultan), 
who,  on  receiving  a  due  consideration,  gave  him 
letters,  which  he  assured  him  would  secure  a  free 
passage  through  all  the  countries  that  lay  on  his 
way  to  Jerusalem.  Bernard  proceeded  to  Taren- 
turn,  where  he  embarked  and  landed  at  Alexan- 
dria. Here,  however,  his  letters  proved  of  less 
avail  than  he  expected,  the  prince  having  profes- 
sed a  very  slender  knowledge  of  the  Bari  Sulda- 
nus, till  his  memory  was  refreshed  by  a  donation 
of  thirteen  denari.  Unluckily  it  was  a  maxim 
here  to  weigh  every  thing  which  could  be  weigh- 
ed ;  a  process  which,  in  consequence  of  the  state 
of  the  Italian  coinage,  reduced  six  denari  to  three. 
From  Alexandria  our  pilgrim  proceeded  up  the 

Geon  (Nile)  to  Babylon,  the  name  still  borne  by 

47 


112  HOLY  LAND. 

the  modern  Cairo.  The  king's  name  was  Abdel- 
hachman,  who,  without  paying  the  least  regard  to 
the  recommendation  of  his  brother  of  Alexandria, 
ordered  Bernard  to  be  thrown  into  prison.  In 
this  extremity  he  asked  counsel  of  God,  where- 
upon it  was  miraculously  revealed  to  him,  that 
thirteen  denari,  such  as  he  had  presented  at  Al- 
exandria, would  produce  here  an  equally  auspici- 
ous effect.  The  celestial  origin  of  this  advice 
was  proved  by  its  complete  success.  Abdel- 
hachman  not  only  liberated  the  pilgrim,  but  gave 
him  letters,  which  he  assured  him  would  secure 
against  all  farther  exaction  ;  and  accordingly 
none  is  afterwards  mentioned.  Bernard  now  de- 
scended the  Geon  by  Sitimulh,  Mohalla,  and 
Damiate,  to  Thanis,  where  he  found  many  Chris- 
tians, and  was  treated  by  the  monks  with  what 
he  considers  as  even  an  excess  of  hospitality. 
Many  camels  were  kept  here  for  the  supply  of 
the  caravans  crossing  the  desert  to  Palestine. 
"  Well,  says  he,  may  it  be  called  a  desert,"  pre- 
senting neither  herb  nor  fruit,  and  recalling  to 
his  memory  Campania  when  covered  with  snow. 
He  then  reached  Jerusalem ;  in  describing  which 
he  goes  through  the  usual  routine,  and,  leaving 
it,  embarked  for  Rome. 

During  a  subsequent  age,  the  Holy  Land  be- 
came the  object  of  only  too  frequent  and  crowd- 


BOULDESELL.  113 

ed  visitation.  It  is  not  here  the  place  to  inquire 
into  the  character  and  effects  of  those  extraordi- 
nary expeditions  known  under  the  name  of  Cru- 
sades. They  have  furnished  an  ample  theme  of 
narration  to  numerous  eye-witnesses  ;  whose  nar- 
ratives, however,  relate  too  entirely  to  scenes  of 
blood,  and  to  the  successive  triumphs  and  defeats 
of  the  Christian  armies,  to  leave  them  much  at- 
tention to  bestow  on  those  more  humble  but  in- 
teresting objects  of  which  we  are  now  in  search. 
Leaving  these  events,  therefore,  to  general  his- 
tory, of  which  they  form  so  prominent  a  part,  we 
shall  take  up  the  thread  of  the  peregrinations 
which  took  place,  from  the  time  when  these 
regions  became  again  subject  to  the  Mahometan 
power. 

The  earliest  of  these  narrations  which  I  have 
met  with,  and  which  does  not  seem  to  be  gene- 
rally known,  is  one  written  in  1331  by  William 
DE  BouLDESELL,  who  sccms  to  have  been  endued 
with  an  ample  share  of  that  credulity  to  which 
these  early  pilgrims  were  liable.  He  proceeded 
first  to  the  monastery  of  St  Catherine  at  the  foot 
of  Sinai.  He  was  hospitably  received  by  the 
monks,  and  entertained  at  free  cost  for  several 
days.  Above  all,  he  was  favoured  with  the  view 
of  the  marble  tomb  of  that  Saint,  which  the 
monks  opened,  and  shewed  him  the  bones  lying 

VOL.  III.  II 


114  HOLY  LAND. 

piled  confusedly  together.  They  even,  by  hard 
beating,  brought  out  a  small  portion  of  blood, 
which  they  presented  to  our  pilgrim  as  an  espe- 
cial gift.  What  particularly  astonished  hira, 
though  it  would  have  removed  all  surprise  from 
a  less  believing  mind,  was,  that  the  blood  had  not 
the  appearance  of  real  blood,  but  rather  of  some 
thick  oily  substance ;  so  that  upon  the  whole  it 
appeared  to  him  the  greatest  wonder  that  was 
ever  seen  in  the  world.  On  proceeding  to  Jeru- 
salem, he  met  with  a  woful  disappointment.  The 
Saracens,  it  is  true,  instead  of  profaning  the  holy 
places,  viewed  them  with  the  deepest  veneration; 
but,  for  that  very  reason,  they  considered  Chris- 
tians as  **  heathen  dogs,"  unworthy  to  behold 
such  revered  objects.  Bouldesell  was  therefore 
obliged  to  depart,  entirely  disappointed  in  the 
main  object  of  his  journey.  He  proceeded  to 
Damascus,  and  viewed  its  splendid  gardens,  said 
to  be  40,000  in  number,  whence  he  returned  to 
Europe. 

In  1432,  Bertrandon  de  la  Brocquiere  un- 
dertook his  pilgrimage.  He  sailed  from  Venice 
to  Jaffa,  where,  he  says,  begin  the  "  pardons**  of 
the  Holy  Land  ;  an  expression  which  too  clearly 
betrays  the  idea  which  was  uppermost  in  the 
mind  of  these  pious  travellers.  At  Jerusalem, 
now  returned  under  the  sway  of  the  infidels,  he 


BROCQUIERE.  115 

found  only  two  French  monks,  who  were  held  in 
the  most  cruel  thraldom.  There  were  a  consi- 
derable number,  however,  of  Jacobite,  Armenian, 
and  Abyssinian  Christians.  He  made  an  excur- 
sion by  Hebron  and  Gaza  across  the  desert  to 
Sinai.  After  his  return  to  Jerusalem  he  went  to 
Acre,  which  he  found  almost  ruined  by  the 
dreadful  conflicts  of  which  it  had  been  the  thea- 
tre. It  did  not  now  contain  more  than  300 
houses.  He  proceeded  thence  to  Damascus, 
where  he  made  a  considerable  stay.  He  found 
Christians  held  in  the  most  deadly  hatred.  The 
two  first  persons  whom  he  met,  attacked  and 
knocked  him  down.  Brocquiere,  rising,  drew 
his  sword  to  take  vengeance ;  but  his  hand  was 
retained  by  his  companion ;  a  fortunate  circum- 
stance, as  thirty  or  forty  Saracens  immediately 
came  running  up  to  support  their  companions. 
The  Christian  merchants  were  locked  into  their 
shops  every  night  by  the  Saracens,  who  opened 
the  doors  in  the  morning  at  such  an  hour  as 
seemed  to  them  good ;  yet  the  love  of  gain  in- 
duced many  to  make  it  still  their  residence.  He 
says,  a  man  in  this  country  ought  to  appear 
neither  bold  nor  cowardly,  neither  rich  nor  poor. 
Wealth  excites  cupidity,  poverty  contempt.  Da- 
mascus had  been  destroyed  by  Timur  in  1400, 
and  part  of  it  was  still  in  ruins  ;  but  the  portion 
rebuilt  formed  a  very  great  city.     He  states  the 


116  HOLY  LAND. 

population  at  100,000  men  ;  but  whether  in  this 
he  includes  women,  or  even  male  children,  is  un- 
certain. During  his  stay,  a  grand  era  was  form- 
ed by  the  arrival  of  a  caravan  from  Mecca,  con- 
taining upwards  of  3000  camels.  Its  entry  into 
Damascus  employed  two  days  and  two  nights. 
The  Alkoran  was  carried  in  front,  wrapped  in 
silk,  and  borne  on  a  camel  covered  with  silk  trap- 
pings. A  number  of  persons  round  it  were  bran- 
dishing naked  swords,  and  playing  on  all  sorts  of 
musical  instruments.  The  governor,  with  the 
whole  city,  came  out  to  meet  the  procession,  *and 
to  worship  the  sacred  ensign  which  they  carried 
in  front.  Brocquiere  found  the  greatest  venera- 
tion entertained  for  any  one  who  had  been  once 
at  Mecca,  and  was  positively  assured  by  an  emi- 
nent MoUah,  that  such  an  one  could  never  be 
damned. 

From  Damascus  Brocquiere  determined  to  re- 
turn home  by  land,  though  he  was  warned  of  the 
dangers  to  be  incurred  by  such  a  route.  Accord- 
ingly he  assures  us,  that  there  was  no  conceivable 
evil  which  he  did  not  encounter,  except  that  of 
denying  his  faith.  His  guide  was  a  Mameluke, 
who  obliged  him,  during  the  whole  time,  to  sit 
cross-legged  upon  mats.  He  stopped  at  Balbec, 
but  without  bestowing  any  attention  on  its  mag- 
nificent ruins  ;  and,  travelling  through  Armenia 
and  Asia  Minor,  arrived  at  Cyprus. 


BAUMGARTEN.  117 

Towards  the  end  of  the  same  century,  the  Holy 
Land,  with  the  wilderness  of  Sinai,  was  surveyed 
by  Dean  Breidenbach  of  Mentz,  whose  work, 
from  its  antiquity,  and  the  ample  details  into 
which  he  enters,  has  acquired  considerable  cele- 
brity. As  these,  however,  relate  almost  entirely 
to  the  different  spots  visited  by  pilgrims,  they  do 
not  contain  much  on  which  we  could  dwell  with 
advantage.  More  curious  particulars  are  con- 
tained in  the  journey  of  Martin  Baumgarten  of 
Kuffstein  in  1507. 

Baumgarten  left  Cairo  on  the  15th  October, 
being  deposited  with  his  companions  in  paniers 
carefully  poised  on  the  sides  of  camels.  They 
were  *'  most  barbarously  treated  by  the  Saracen 
"  boys,  who  pelted  us  with  dirt,  brick-bats,  stones, 
"  and  rotten  fruit."  At  Alcanica  they  found  a 
large  caravan  preparing  to  cross  the  desert,  whose 
members  united  to  protect  each  other  against  the 
Arab  robbers.  They  scarcely  dared  to  eat  or 
drink;  and,  *'  as  if  we  had  been  closely  besieged, 
"  slept  and  watched  by  turns."  They  were 
sometimes  awakened  at  night  by  a  frightful  cry, 
which  proved  to  be  for  the  purpose  of  scaring 
Arab  assailants,  who  were  thus  obliged  to  make 
off  with  the  little  they  could  lay  hold  of.  The 
travellers  then  came  to  the  bay,  through  which, 
he  says,  the  children  of  Israel  passed  ;  and  he 


118  HOLY  LAND. 

declares,  that  the  tracks  of  Pharoah's  chariot 
wheels  were  still  distinctly  visible  ;  nay,  if  any 
impious  hand  deface  them,  they  are  forthwith 
miraculously  restored.  Water  became  scarce, 
but  they  luckily  bought  some  from  an  Arab,  who, 
on  receiving  a  mayden^  run  it  through  his  wife's 
ear,  whereupon  the  lady  *'  fell  a  skipping  and 
"  dancing  in  a  strange  manner."  They  found 
on  this  road  many  prickly  trees,  the  blossoms  of 
which  put  forth  a  most  delicious  smell.  Their 
worst  adventure  was,  when  they  had  to  traverse 
a  narrow  valley  of  a  mile  in  length,  planted  with 
dates,  and  forming  a  pass  between  trackless 
mountains.  The  inhabitants,  on  hearing  they 
were  Christians,  "  came  flocking  out  of  their 
"  holes,"  knocked  them  down  five  times,  and 
would  be  satisfied  with  nothing  but  money,  which 
it  seems  proved  always  the  only  effectual  mode 
in  which  they  could  be  dealt  with.  As  they  ap- 
proached their  journey's  end,  the  guides  advan- 
ced a  claim  for  more  than  the  stipulated  sum, 
and,  on  refusal,  ran  off,  and  "  left  us  in  that  vast 
"  and  dreadful  desert  all  alone."  It  was  incum- 
bent, therefore,  to  call  them  back  by  uncondi- 
tional submission. 

At  length  the  pilgrims  arrived  at  the  monastery 
of  St  Catherine  ;  and  on  being  shewn  into  an 
apartment,  imagined  their  troubles  at  least  sus- 
pended J  but  a  band  of  Arabs  found  admission. 


BAUMGARTEN.  119 

and  in  a  barbarous  manner  demanded  tluSy  which 
it  seems  was  money  ;  *'  with  which  having  stopt 
*•  their  helHsh  mouths,  and  greased  their  ugly 
"  fists,"  our  pilgrims  were  at  length  left  to  re- 
pose. They  chose  a  moonlight  night  to  ascend 
Horeb.  The  ascent  was  laborious,  though  facili- 
tated in  many  parts  by  artificial  steps,  amounting 
in  all  to  700.  At  a  certain  point  the  guides 
presented  their  swords,  and  would  neither  allow 
them  to  move  back  nor  forward  without  a  liberal 
promise  of  money.  At  the  top  they  found  a 
church,  on  the  cold  floor  of  which  they  spent  a 
very  comfortless  night.  Next  morning  they  de- 
scended the  opposite  side  into  the  plain  between 
Horeb  and  Sinai.  Some  refreshment  was  obtain- 
ed at  a  monastery  called  the  Forty  Saints,  once 
actually  containing  that  number,  all  of  whom  had 
been  massacred  by  the  natives  ;  and  it  was  at 
present  served  by  two  monks  detached  from  St 
Catherine.  Their  task  was  now  to  ascend  Sinai, 
which  proved  much  more  difficult  and  laborious 
than  Horeb.  Besides  being  steep,  it  was  com- 
posed of  loose  stones,  which  yielded  beneath  the 
feet,  and  when  a  large  one  was  displaced,  others 
followed,  till  a  torrent  rolled  down.  The  heat 
was  at  first  intense,  but  on  ascending  they  were 
refreshed  with  a  cooling  breeze ;  and  at  length, 
amid  a  number  of  high  tops  which  rose  before 
them,  the  guide  pointed  out  the  highest  pinnacle 


120  HOLY  LAND. 

of  Sinai.  Their  energy  redoubled,  and  they  were 
enabled  to  struggle  against  ever  increasing  la- 
bours ;  till  at  length,  "  through  sharp  and  hang- 
'*  ing  rocks,  through  clefts  and  horrible  deserts, 
"  pulling  and  drawing  one  another,  sometimes 
**  with  our  staves,  sometimes  with  our  belts," 
they  reached  the  second  summit.  The  view  was 
most  extensive,  Sinai  raising  its  head  high  above 
all  the  neighbouring  mountains.  The  Red  Sea, 
though  at  the  distance  of  three  days'  journey, 
appeared  beneath  their  feet,  while  beyond  stretch- 
ed the  mountains  and  deserts  of  the  Thebais. 
They  saw  also  '*  Althor,  that  famous  port,"  form- 
ing then,  it  seems,  the  emporium  of  Indian  com- 
modities, which  were  conveyed  thence  on  camels 
to  Alexandria. 

From  Sinai  our  pilgrims  returned  to  the  mo- 
nastery of  St  Catherine,  where  they  were  kindly 
received,  though  the  tenants  "  appeared  skele- 
*'  tons  rather  than  men."  Our  party  made  ar- 
rangements for  their  departure  in  the  quietest 
manner  possible,  and  set  out  by  moonlight,  hop- 
ing to  elude  the  covetous  vigilance  of  the  Arabs ; 
but  scarcely  were  they  mounted  when  the  latter 
were  seen  gathered  round,  *'  just  as  a  flock  of 
**  vultures  used  to  do  about  a  carcase."  In  the 
course  of  the  journey  they  were  repeatedly  inter- 
rupted by  bands  of  them  raising  hideous  cries, 
and    loudly   demanding   money  j    on    obtaining 


BAUMGARTEN.  121 

which,  they  went  away  "  like  a  company  of  dogs, 
"  when  their  barking  is  stopt  by  throwing  them 
•*  a  piece  of  bread.'*  At  length  our  party  left 
**  those  horrible  mountains,"  and  came  to  a  more 
agreeable  country,  situated  on  the  Red  Sea, 
where  they  joined  an  Indian  spice  caravan  bound 
for  Egypt.  They  lost  now  all  fear  of  the  Arabs ; 
but  this  security  involved  them  in  fresh  dangers ; 
for  travelling  day  and  night  "  we  could  not  avoid 
*'  falling  off  our  camels,  while  we  were  half  sleep- 
'*  ing,  half  waking.  A  thousand  strange  dreams 
"  and  fancies  came  into  our  heads  whilst  hungry 
'*  and  weary,  and  we  sat  nodding  on  our  camels." 
In  five  days  they  reached  Cairo,  where  they  made 
some  stay.  They  found  that  city  cruelly  tyran- 
nized over  by  the  Mamelukes.  A  Saracen  whom 
they  met  in  the  streets  crying  bitterly  and  beating 
his  breasts,  informed  them,  that  having  just  com- 
pleted an  excellent  house,  a  Mameluke  taking  a 
fancy  to  it,  had  thrust  him  out,  and  occupied  it 
without  the  smallest  ceremony.  Baumgarten  saw 
here  the  pyramids,  which  appeared  to  him  "  a 
"  prodigious  piece  of  work,  especially  in  a  sandy 
"  country.**  He  was  surprised  on  looking  out 
one  morning  by  the  view  of  the  ziraphus,  "  the 
"  tallest  creature  that  ever  we  beheld.**  Another 
remarkable  animal  was  the  musk  rat,  which  **  be- 
"  ing  made  angry,  voided  a  sort  of  perfume 
"  valued  at  its  weight  in  gold.'*     The  mode  of 


122  HOLY  LAND. 

hatching  chickens  in  an  oven  was  also  observed. 
They  set  out  on  a  new  pilgrimage,  the  object  of 
which  was  the  Holy  Land,  At  Belbes  they  joined 
a  caravan  going  to  Damascus.  After  passing 
*'  Salheyo  and  Cattia,"  they  entered  upon  a  de- 
sert of  deep  and  loose  sand,  which  sunk  beneath 
the  feet.  "  We  could  see  nothing  but  the 
*•  heavens  above,  and  sand  below  ;  nothing  green, 
"  no  tree,  or  the  least  shrub."  Near  a  ruined 
cottage  they  beheld  10,000  sheep,  goats,  and 
asses,  lying  all  dead,  and  emitting  a  stench  al- 
most intolerable.  A  minister  of  the  Sultan  of 
Egypt  had  forced  these  from  the  unfortunate  in- 
habitants of  Judea  in  the  room  of  a  poll-tax  which 
he  was  sent  to  levy  ;  but  in  their  route  through 
the  desert  they  all  perished  for  want  of  water. 
Soon  after  they  came  to  a  large  bay,  where  were 
very  extensive  salt  pits,  said  to  yield  to  the 
Sultan  the  annual  revenue  of  100,000  seraphs. 
At  midnight  of  the  same  day  they  reached  La- 
ritch  (El  Arish) ;  and  in  a  few  days  Gaza, 
still  a  great  city,  larger  than  Jerusalem  ;  and 
there  they  were  shewn  the  ruins  of  a  large  edi- 
fice, believed  to  be  the  temple  of  Dagon.  They 
now  began  their  journey  to  Jerusalem,  passing 
over  very  high  and  rugged  mountains,  and  in  con- 
stant dread  of  robbers ;  but  amid  these  steeps 
they  plucked  **  very  wholesome  and  pleasant 
"  herbs,    the    smell   being   mighty   refreshing.*' 


BAUMGARTEN.  Igg 

They  then  reached  Hebron,  described  as  now 
more  like  a  village  than  a  city  ;  but  near  which 
they  were  shewn  the  field  "  where  it  is  said,  or 
♦*  at  least  guessed,  Adam  was  made.'*  The  neigh- 
bourhood produced  a  reddish  earth,  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  prayer  beads.  The  next  stage 
was  Bethlehem,  the  church  of  which  he  describes 
in  the  loftiest  terms,  declaring  his  belief,  that  in 
its  glory  it  had  not  its  equal  in  the  world.  It 
had  been  built  of  the  finest  marble,  and  sup- 
ported by  forty  pillars,  eighteen  of  which  had 
been  sacrilegiously  carried  off  by  the  Sultan  of 

Egypt. 

From  Bethlehem  the  pilgrims  went  up  to  "  the 
"  holy  Jerusalem."  He  was  received  into  a  mona- 
stery of  Franciscan  friars,  who  treated  him  with 
the  utmost  hospitality,  and  gave  the  most  accu- 
rate directions  as  to  every  thing  to  be  seen  and 
done  ;  *'  but  the  holy  penny  must  not  be  forgot." 
A  mode  of  catching  birds  was  observed,  by  pour- 
ing water  upon  the  rocks,  which  as  soon  as  the 
birds,  parched  with  thirst,  beheld,  they  hastened 
to  it  as  to  a  bait,  and  were  easily  taken.  An 
anxious  wish  was  felt  to  enter  Solomon's  temple, 
now  converted  into  a  magnificent  mosque.  They 
even  made  the  attempt,  but  were  "  violently 
'*  hindered  and  pushed  back  again  after  we  were 
"  half  up  stairs."  It  was  well  they  were  ;  for  it 
seems  every  Christian  who  entered  it  was  offered 


I24t  HOLY  LAND. 

the  alternatives  of  abjuring  his  faith,  or  being  cut 
in  two.  It  was  called  by  the  Saracens  the  holy 
sanctuary ;  two  thousand  lamps  were  kept  con- 
stantly burning  within  it ;  and  it  was  surrounded 
with  a  square  pavement  of  white  marble,  '*  so 
*'  bright,  that  the  beholders  can  no  more  look  on 
"  it  than  they  can  on  the  sun  itself." 

From  Jerusalem  Baumgarten  proceeded  to 
Jericho,  which  he  found,  like  Arculfus,  to  consist 
of  one  solitary  house,  now,  however,  converted 
from  the  abode  of  Rahab  into  that  of  Zaccheus. 
Our  pilgrim  also  visited  the  Dead  Sea,  **  that 
"  frightful  and  horrid  place.'*  In  the  approach, 
every  thing  looked  black,  and  as  it  were  scorch- 
ed with  lightning  j  and  the  ground  was  full  of 
holes,  in  which  the  mules  were  continually  stum- 
bling. A  recent  shower  of  rain  also  had  render- 
ed the  earth  so  soft  and  spongy,  "  that  if  any 
"  chanced  to  fall,  the  ground  giving  way  receiv- 
"  ed,  and  as  it  were  hugged  him  in  its  bosom, 
"  and  he  had  much  ado  to  get  up  again."  At 
length,  tying  their  horses  to  some  bushes,  they 
came  to  the  shore ;  where  "  the  suffocating  stink, 
"  the  melancholy  and  hellish  aspect  of  the  place, 
"  the  shore  full  of  reeds  and  rotten  trees,  the 
*'  unwholesome  saltness  and  binding  quality  of 
"  the  water,  which  is  bitter  as  gall,  represented 
**  to  our  eyes  the  dreadful  vengeance  of  an  of- 
"  fended  God." 


BAUMQARTEN GEORGEVVITZ.  125 

The  pilgrims  having  now  returned  to  Jerusa- 
lem, proceeded  by  the  Jordan  to  Damascus  ;  and 
thence  taking  ship  at  Tripoli,  passed  by  several 
of  the  Greek  islands  on  their  way  to  Venice. 
Bauragarten  thence  proceeded  by  land  to  Kuff- 
stein,  his  native  place. 

Among  the  visitants  of  Palestine,  a  conspicu- 
ous place  is  held  by  Bartholomeo  Georgewitz 
of  Cracow,  who  obtained  the  title  of  the  Pilgrim 
par  ej:cellence.  No  one  has  given  such  full  direc- 
tions as  to  the  course  to  be  followed  by  the  tra- 
veller into  the  Holy  Land.  He  recommends  first 
of  all  to  make  his  will,  "  like  one  going  not  to 
"  the  earthly,  but  the  heavenly  Jerusalem.'*  The 
next  task  is  to  chuse  his  route.  He  may  go  by 
the  Greek  islands  to  Constantinople,  and  then 
through  Asia  Minor,  seeing  in  his  way  the  ruins 
of  great  cities  of  the  Greeks.  On  reaching  Da- 
mascus, a  journey  of  a  hundred  miles  carries  him 
to  Jerusalem.  Another  road  is  by  Hungary, 
Bosnia,  and  Poland,  but  this  is  more  dangerous, 
being  full  of  murderers  and  assassins.  Both  in- 
volve great  expense,  a  period  of  six  or  seven 
months,  and  the  danger  of  being  killed.  A  much 
more  eligible  plan  is  to  take  ship  at  Venice, 
whence  he  may  be  conveyed  in  twenty  days  to  a 
port  of  Palestine.  A  gentleman  must  put  in  his 
pocket  300  sequins  of  good  gold,  but  if  he  does 


126  HOLY  LAND. 

without  a  servant,  only  !200.  The  poorer  are  en- 
couraged by  an  assurance  that  their  expense  will 
not  exceed  half  that  of  the  rich,  and  that  plenti- 
ful alms  may  be  expected.  As  no  beds  are  fur- 
nished on  ship-board,  he  recommends  a  box, 
which  may  serve  at  once  for  keeping  clothes  and 
sleeping  upon.  Some  good  wine,  as  well  as  a  lit- 
tle comfort  in  case  of  sea-sickness,  is  not  to  be 
overlooked.  On  landing  at  Joppa  or  Berytus, 
the  captain  gives  notice  to  the  monk  guardian  at 
Jerusalem.  That  person  hires  a  Moor,  who,  with 
several  others,  comes  down  to  the  ship  and  takes 
charge  of  the  pilgrims.  There  are  no  inns  on  the 
road,  but  they  are  lodged  in  the  monasteries.  A 
very  short  time  may  suffice  for  seeing  all  in  and 
about  Jerusalem  ;  but  the  pilgrim  must  pay  his 
guides  pretty  high,  if  he  wishes  to  view  the  Jor- 
dan. Should  he  aim  at  visiting  the  remoter  parts 
of  Judea,  he  must  remain  for  many  months  or  a 
year,  till  opportunities  occur  to  join  caravans  or 
parties  going  to  these  quarters. 

Our  pilgrim  gives  a  sad  picture  of  the  fate  of 
Europeans  who  are  carried  into  slavery  by  the 
Turks  ;  a  catastrophe  produced  chiefly  by  the 
fortune  of  war.  The  armies  of  that  nation,  in 
making  war  against  the  Christians,  were  followed 
by  slave  traders,  carrying  chains,  with  which 
fifty  or  sixty  were  bound  in  a  row  together,  leav- 
ing only  two  feet  between  to  enable  them  to 


ALDERSEy.  127 

walk.  The  hands  were  manacled  during  the  day, 
and  at  night  the  feet  also.  The  most  miserable 
fate  was  that  of  men  of  rank,  or  those  belonging 
to  the  learned  professions.  These  having  no 
handicraft  art  or  trade,  were  employed  in  the 
lowest  labours  of  the  field.  He  never  saw  them, 
however,  yoked  in  the  plough.  Escape  was  ex- 
tremely difficult,  particularly  for  those  transport- 
ed into  Asia,  in  consequence  of  the  great  rivers 
and  arms  of  the  sea  which  they  had  to  cross.  It 
was  frequently  attempted,  however,  particularly 
in  autumn,  when  the  ripe  corn  promised  to  afford 
the  means  of  concealment. 

In  1581  Laurence  Aldersey  departed  from 
London,  and  went  across  Germany  to  Venice. 
This  city  is  "  very  faire  and  greatly  to  be  com- 
"  mended.**  His  only  dissatisfaction  was  with 
its  women,  of  whom  he  says,  *'  they  be  rather 
*'  monsters  than  women.**  The  ground  of  this 
severe  censure  is,  that  '*  every  shoemaker*s  and 
"  tailor's  wife  will  have  a  gowne  of  silke  :  if  a 
**  stranger  meete  one  of  them,  he  will  surely 
**  thinke,  that  he  meeteth  a  ladie.'*  Aldersey  set 
sail  on  Midsummer  day  for  Palestine.  They 
were  soon  overtaken,  however,  with  a  contrary 
wind  ;  in  the  midst  of  which  a  Turkish  galley 
came  in  sight,  and  caused  a  great  alarm.  The 
master  **  being  a  wise  fellow,  began  to  devise 


1^8  HOLY  LAND. 

"  how  to  escape  the  danger;  but  while  both  he, 
"  and  all  of  us,  were  in  our  dumps,  God  sent  us 
"  a  merrie  gale  of  wind.**  As  they  approached 
Candia,  a  violent  storm  came  on,  and  the  mari- 
ners began  to  reproach  our  author  as  the  cause, 
"  and  saide,  I  was  no  good  Christian,  and  wished 
"  that  I  were  in  the  middest  of  the  sea,  saying 
"  that  they,  and  the  shippe,  were  the  worse  for 
"  me.**  Aldersey  humbly  replied,  *'  I  thinke 
"  myself  the  worst  creature  in  the  worlde,  and 
"  consider  you  yourselves  also.**  At  the  same 
time  a  long  sermon  was  preached,  the  tenor  of 
which  was,  "  that  we  were  not  all  good  Christians, 
**  or  els  it  were  not  possible  for  us  to  have  such 
"  weather.**  A  gentleman  also  told  him  the 
surmises  that  were  on  board  on  account  of  his 
not  joining  in  the  Salve  Regina  and  Ave  Maria  ; 
but  Aldersey  told  him,  *'  that  they  that  praied  to 
"  so  many  goe  a  wrong  way  to  worke,**  and 
made  no  alteration  in  his  conduct.  The  friars 
observing  this,  and  determining  to  bring  the  mat- 
ter to  a  point,  sent  round  the  image  of  our  lady 
to  kiss.  Aldersey,  on  its  approach,  endeavoured 
to  avoid  it  by  going  another  way  ;  but  the  bearer 
**  fetched  his  course  about,**  and  presented  it. 
The  proffered  salutation  being  then  positively  re- 
fused, "  there  was  a.  great  stir  ;'*  but  at  length 
two  of  the  more  respectable  friars  "  travelled 
"  with  the  patron  in   my  behalfe,   and  made  all 


ALDERSEY.  1^9 

"  well  againe."  On  the  2d  August  they  arrived 
at  Cyprus  ;  of  which  he  says,  "  The  people  there 
"  be  very  rude  ;  and  like  beasts,  and  no  better : 
"  they  eat  their  meat  sitting  upon  the  ground 
**  with  their  legs  acrosse  like  tailors."  On  the 
8th  they  arrived  at  Joppa,  but  did  not  land  till 
next  day,  when  they  were  permitted  by  the  great 
Basha,  **  who  sate  upon  the  top  of  a  hill  to  see  us 
"  sent  away."  Aldersey  was  mounted  before  the 
rest,  which  displeased  the  Basha,  who  sent  a  ser- 
vant to  dismount  and  beat  him  ;  *'  whereupon  I 
"  made  a  long  legge,  saying.  Grand  mercye, 
"  Seignior."  This  seems  to  have  procured  his 
pardon  ;  and  being  •*  horsed  upon  little  asses," 
they  set  out  through  the  wilderness.  That  very 
night  they  arrived  at  Rama,  and  found  lodging 
in  a  house,  which  they  could  only  enter  by  creep- 
ing on  their  knees,  and  had  no  provisions  except 
what  they  bought ;  "  drinke  we  drue  from  the 
"  well."  The  town  he  describes  as  *'  so  ruina- 
**  ted,  that  I  take  it  to  be  rather  a  heape  of  stones 
"  than  a  towne."  On  their  way  to  Jerusalem 
they  were  often  stayed  and  troubled  by  the  Arabs, 
whose  extortions  cost  them  in  all  twenty  shillings 
a-piece.  *'  They  that  should  have  rescued  us 
**  stood  still,  and  durst  doe  nothing,  which  was 
"  to  our  cost."  On  approaching  Jerusalem  they 
knelt  down  and  gave  thanks  ;  it  then  behov- 
ed them  to  dismount  and  to  enter  the  town  on 

VOL.  HI.  1 


ISO  HOLY  LAND. 

foot.  The  superior  met  and  courteously  receiv- 
ed them  ;  but  he  complains  that  the  door  of  the 
convent  was  very  low  and  narrow,  and  the  entry 
very  dark  ;  however,  *'  they  were  dieted  of  free 
"  cost,  and  fared  reasonable  well.*'  He  then  be- 
gins the  catalogue  of  the  holy  places,  in  which 
there  is  nothing  worthy  of  record ;  nor  did  any 
remarkable  events  distinguisli  his  return  home, 
which  was  by  the  same  route  that  he  came. 

Of  English  pilgrims  to  the  Holy  Land,  the 
most  intelligent  was  George  Sandys,  who  jour- 
neyed thither  in  the  year  I6IO.  He  sailed 
through  the  Greek  islands  to  Constantinople, 
then  to  Egypt,  from  Egypt  to  Gaza.  He  found 
that  city  in  a  state  of  visible  decay,  *'  the  build- 
"  ings  meane  both  for  form  and  matter."  The 
best  were  of  rough  stones ;  some  only  of  mats 
and  hurdles,  others  of  mud  ;  but  *'  amongst  all 
"  not  any  comely  or  convenient."  After  all,  it 
seems  there  were  "  some  reliques  that  testifie  a 
"  better  condition.**  Handsome  pillars  of  mar- 
ble supported  "  divers  simple  roofes  ;"  and  bro- 
ken fragments  of  them  served  to  ornament  the 
thresholds,  doors  and  windows,  "almost  of  every 
**  beggarly  cottage.**  The  castle  was  "  now  not 
"  worthy  that  name.**  He  describes  the  oppres- 
sion endured  by  the  Greeks  from  their  Turkish 
masters  as  almost  intolerable.     Their  doors  are 


SANDYS.  161 

made  low,  purposely  to  retard  somewhat  the  sud- 
den hruption  of  these  tyrants ;  their  corn  is  bu- 
ried under  ground  ;  and  though  they  have  **  cer- 
"  tain  small  vineyards,"  yet  both  the  presses  and 
the  wine  are  kept  carefully  concealed. 

Sandys  having  joined  a  caravan  destined  for 
Jerusalem,  passed  through  Hebron,  which  he 
found  *'  utterly  ruinated  ;"  but  on  its  site  a  little 
village,  adorned  with  a  goodly  temple  erected  by 
Queen  Helena.  The  country  here  was  "  tlie  most 
"  pregnant  and  pleasant  valley  that  ever  eye  be- 
"  held.*'  It  extends  for  about  twenty  miles  in- 
ward from  the  Mediterranean,  "  full  of  flowery 
**  hills  ascending  leisurely,"  and  looking  down  on 
the  most  luxuriant  valleys.  Yet  this  most  fertile 
region  is  almost  uninhabited,  containing  only 
a  few  pitiful  villages  ;  **  the  grass  waste-high, 
"  unmowed,  uneaten,  and  uselessly  withering." 
They  passed  through  Ascalon,  *'  now  a  place  of 
**  no  note ;"  Cane  Sedoe,  "  a  ruinous  thing," 
but  where  the  caravan  *'  lay  in  deep  pastures 
"  without  controulment."  They  then  came  to 
Joppa,  formerly  the  only  port  of  Judea,  and 
now  the  common  place  of  landing  for  pilgrims, 
though  the  accumulation  of  sand  rendered  its 
port  much  less  convenient  than  formerly.  Here 
the  pilgrims  pay  a  sum  to  a  Greek,  who  serves 
them  as  a  guide  to  and  from  Jerusalem  ;  and 
conducts  them  in  perfect  safety,   **  being  in  fe^ 


132  HOLY  LAND. 

with  the  Arabians."  After  leaving  Rama,  the 
country  rose  continually,  and  at  length  became 
very  mountainous.  The  road  appeared  as  if  pav- 
ed with  rocks,  and  often  there  was  no  passage, 
but  such  as  seemed  to  have  been  worked  by  a 
winter  torrent.  At  length  they  reached  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountains,  whence  they  surveyed  all 
those  which  they  had  left  behind  them.  The 
road  was  now  tolerably  level,  and  diversified  on 
each  side  with  hills,  with  ruins  perched  on  their 
summits  j  and  "  valleys,  such  as  are  figured  in 
*'  the  most  beautiful  landskips.*'  At  Jerusalem 
they  were  well  received  by  the  Pater  Guardian, 
*'  a  reverent  old  man  of  a  voluble  tongue  ;*' 
though  they  consider  a  hundred  dollars  as  rather 
a  heavy  charge  for  eight  days'  entertainment. 
The  monks  make  thus  considerable  profits  by  the 
pilgrims  ;  none  of  whom  can  with  any  safety  re- 
main, unless  within  the  walls  of  the  monastery. 
The  making  of  the  knights  of  the  Sepulchre  was 
also  a  source  of  revenue,  as  each  paid  thirty  sul- 
tanies ;  and  though  a  rigorous  qualification  was 
formerly  required,  "  now  they  will  except  against 
"  none  that  bring  money."  Many  complaints 
were  made,  however,  of  the  violence  of  the  Turks, 
who  extorted  money  on  the  most  trifling  pre- 
texts ;  "  which  losses  they  use  oft  to  rehearse  as 
"  motives  unto  charitie."  Sandys  was  led  care- 
fully through  all  the  holy  places,  though  he  was 


SANDYS.  133 

warned,  that  the  omission  of  the  Salve  Reginas. 
and  Ave  Marias  would  deprive  him  of  every  hope 
of  that  indulgence  for  his  sins  on  which  a  true 
good  Catholic  might  securely  reckon^ 


CHAPTER  IV. 


ASIATIC  TURKEY. 


Eldred. — Biddulph. — Pococke. —  Chandler. —  IVood. —  Clarke, 
Macdonald  Kinneir. — Skeetzen, — Burckhardt. 


The  portion  of  Asia  of  which  we  are  to  treat  in 
this  Chapter,  is,  as  to  its  present  state,  perhaps 
the  least  interesting  of  any.  It  is  tyrannized 
over  by  a  brutal  despotism,  which  has  seated 
itself  above  the  ancient  inhabitants,  without  im- 
bibing any  portion  of  the  genius  or  arts  for  which 
they  were  distinguished.  Hence  this  region  ex- 
cites our  curiosity  rather  by  the  traces  of  what  it 
was,  than  by  any  thing  that  it  now  is.  It  is 
filled  with  the  mighty  monuments  of  former 
greatness  j  vast  structures  erected  by  the  ancient 
kings  of  the  world,  and  in  which  oriental  splen- 
dour and  magnitude  are  combined  with  the  ex- 
quisite art  and  materials  of  Greece  and  Rome. 
Even  the  depth  of  its  deserts  exhibit  the  remains 
of  edifices  eclipsing  those  which  adorn  the  most 
splendid  seats  of  modern  empire.  A  sublime  and 
tender   melancholy  is  inspired  by  viewing  this 


KLDRED.  1S5 

height  of  human  glory  fallen  ;  and  the  degrada- 
tion of  the  present  race  serves  only  to  render 
more  conspicuous  the  greatne?-^  of  those  whose 
place  they  have  occupied. 

In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  commerce  rather  than 
curiosity  was  the  motive  of  those  journeys  which 
extended  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  It  was  with 
this  view  that,  on  Shrove  Monday  1583,  John  El- 
DRED,  *'  with  six  or  seven  other  honest  merchants," 
set  sail  from  London.  They  arrived  at  Tripoli 
in  Syria,  where  the  English  had  a  consul,  and  a 
factory  called  Fondeghi  Ingles.  Tripoli  was  the 
greatest  port  in  the  Turkish  dominions,  about  the 
size  of  Bristol,  and  defended  by  a  strong  citadel. 
Its  chief  annoyance  arose  from  a  bank  of  moving 
sand,  which  "  every  yeere  increaseth,  and  eateth 
**  up  many  gardens  ;"  which  set  at  defiance  all 
attempts  to  stop  its  progress,  and,  according  to  a 
current  prophecy,  was  ultimately  destined  to 
overwhelm  the  city.  From  Tripoli  he  proceeded 
to  Aleppo,  which,  he  says,  "  is  the  greatest  place 
"  of  trafJick  for  a  dry  towne  that  is  in  all  these 
"  parts."  From  Aleppo  he  went  in  three  days 
to  Birrah  (Beer),  on  the  Euphrates,  where  that 
river  "  is  first  gathered  into  one  channel,*'  instead 
of  those  numerous  branches,  which  in  its  early 
course  procured  it  the  name  of  *'  the  thousand 
**  heads."     The  stream  is  here  about  the  breadth 


136  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

of  the  Thames  at  Lambeth,  and  running  almost 
as  swift  as  the  Trent.  They  hired  a  bark  to  sail 
down.  In  their  way  the  Arabs  came  to  them 
with  provisions,  the  women  swimming  out  with 
milk  upon  their  heads.  "  Their  haire,  apparell, 
"  and  colour,  are  altogether  like  to  those  vaga- 
"  bond  Egyptians,  which  heretofore  have  gone 
"  about  in  England.'*  Eldred  had  proof  of  their 
thievish  disposition,  by  the  stealing  from  under 
his  servant's  head  of  a  casket,  "  with  things  of 
"  good  value  in  the  same."  In  twenty-eight 
days  they  arrived  at  Felugia,  where  they  landed 
the  goods,  and  placed  them  on  a  hundred  asses, 
to  be  conveyed  across  Irak  Arabi  to  New  Baby- 
lon (Bagdad).  On  the  way  he  passed  "  the  olde 
"  mighty  citie  of  Babylon,  many  olde  ruins  where- 
"  of  are  easily  to  be  seene  by  daylight,  which 
"  I  John  Eldred  have  often  beheld."  He  notices 
in  particular  the  Tower  of  Babel,  which  he  de- 
scribes as  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  circuit,  and  about 
the  height  of  St  Pauls,  "  but  it  sheweth  much 
"  bigger."  It  was  built  of  very  large  sun-dried 
bricks,  cemented  by  courses  of  **  mattes  made  of 
*'  canes,"  as  entire  "  as  though  they  had  been 
"  laid  within  one  yeere."  I  do  not  know  of  any 
earlier  notice  of  these  remarkable  ruins.  New 
Babylon  was  still  a  great  city,  through  which  an 
extensive  commerce  was  carried  on  between 
Aleppo  and  the  East  Indies.     He  mentions  a 


ELDRED.  13J 

peculiar  mode  of  bringing  provisions  from  Mosul, 
upon  rafts  buoyed  up  by  inflated  goat  skins.  At 
Bagdad  they  use  the  rafts  for  fire-wood,  **  let  the 
**  wind  out  of  their  goat  skins,'*  and  carry  them 
home  by  land.  From  Bagdad  he  proceeded  to 
Bassora,  where  the  Turk  maintained  his  dominion 
by  a  garrison  of  500  Janissaries,  and  25  or  30 
well  armed  galleys.  The  vessels  which  came  to 
this  port  were  from  40  to  60  tons,  and,  to  his  sur- 
prise, had  their  planks  fastened  with  cords  instead 
of  nails ;  a  mode  of  construction  which  has  al- 
ways been  used  by  the  Arabs  of  Oman. 

Wishing  to  return  to  Europe,  Eldred  again  re- 
paired to  Bagdad,  but  spent  44  days  in  ascending 
the  stream.  He  then  joined  a  caravan  going  to 
Aleppo.  Passing  the  Euphrates  near  Hit,  he  saw 
"  a  valley  wherein  are  many  springs  throwing  out 
"  abundantly  at  great  mouthes  a  kind  of  blacke 
"  substance  like  unto  tarre,  which  serveth  all 
"  the  country  to  make  staunch  their  barkes  and 
"  boates,"  (bitumen).  He  adds,  **  these  springs 
"  make  a  noise  like  unto  a  smith's  forge  in  the  blow- 
"  ing  and  puffing  out  of  this  matter,  which  never 
"  ceaseth  night  nor  day.  This  vale  swalloweth  up 
'*  all  heavy  things  that  come  upon  it."  They 
effected  their  journey  well  along  the  desert,  pay- 
ing to  the  King  of  the  Arabians  40s.  for  every 
camel.  Our  author's  curiosity  led  him  to  make 
an  excursion  into  the  diflferent  parts  of  the  Holy 


138  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

Land,  "  of  which  places,  because  many  others 
*•  have  published  large  discourses,  I  surcease  to 
*♦  write.*'  In  1588  he  returned  to  London  in  the 
Hercules,  •*  which  was  the  richest  ship  of  mer- 
•*  chants'  goods  that  ever  wan  known  to  come  into 
**  this  realme." 

Lv  1609  there  was  published  at  London,  *•  The 
*'  Travels  of  certain  Englishmen  into  farre  coun- 
*•  treyes  •/*  of  which  Englishmen,  the  chief  appears 
to  have  been  "  Master  William  Biddulph.*' 
He  begins  with  the  warning,  *'  Reader,  read  the 
*'  preface,  or  els  read  nothing ;"  in  disregard  of 
which,  we  shall  proceed  directly  to  the  matter  of 
bis  narrative.  Sailing  from  Cyprus,  he  touched 
at  Tripoli ;  whence  he  set  out  for  Mount  Libanus, 
to  see  the  cedars  for  which  it  is  celebrated.  The 
mountain  district  was  found  inhabited  by  Maro- 
nites ;  a  people  simple  and  ignorant,  but  civil, 
kind,  and  courteous.  On  reaching  a  certain 
point,  he  found  twenty-four  tall  cedars,  equal  to 
the  largest  oaks,  and  the  branches  '*  stretching 
"  straight  out,  as  though  they  were  kept  by  art." 
These,  and  a  few  at  another  place,  are  represent- 
ed as  the  only  remnant  of  the  forests  of  Lebanon. 
Touching  on  his  return  at  the  principal  village  of 
the  Maronites,  all  the  inhabitants  of  every  age 
and  sex  came  running  out  to  meet  him,  and 
"  gave  a  joyful  shout  altogether  jointly,  to  express 


BIDDULPH.  1S9 

"  their  joy  at  our  coming ;  giving  God  thanks 
"  that  he  had  brought  Christian  Frankes  of  such 
"  farre  countries  to  visit  them."  The  old  men 
invited  our  travellers  to  enter  ;  and  they  were 
introduced  to  the  patriarch,  who  entertained  them 
with  excellent  wine,  and  conversed  on  all  subjects, 
except  religion  and  learning,  on  which  points  his 
knowledge  appeared  to  be  very  limited.  Good 
cheer  was  the  prevailing  system  ;  and  "  their 
'*  manner  is,  when  they  feast,  to  sit  from  mid-day 
*'  to  midnight,  and  sometimes  all  night."  Our 
author,  however,  remarks,  that  the  four  villages 
on  this  mountain  are  now  the  only  places  in  the 
world  where  the  Syriac  is  spoken  native.  He 
was  also  much  edified  by  hearing  set  forms  of 
prayer  in  the  vulgar  tongue,  **  that  the  people 
"  might  have  something  to  say  amen  to  ;'*  and 
eamestly  recommends  the  example  to  England, 
where  it  had  not  yet  been  established.  He 
found  also  in  these  mountains  "  Drusies,"  whom 
he  supposes  to  be  the  posterity  of  the  first  Crusa- 
ders, though  they  have  forgotten  all  Christianity, 
except  baptism  and  eating  swine's  flesh.  He 
viewed  likewise,  with  much  approbation,  the 
Turcomanny,  a  **  kinde  and  simple  people,  dwell- 
"  ing  always  in  the  fields,  borne  and  brought  up, 
"living  and  dying  in  tents."  The  men  keep  the 
flocks  and  herds,  while  the  women  are  busy  at 
home  spinning,  carding,  and  knitting,  "  not  spend- 


140  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

*'  ing  their  time  in  gossiping  and  gadding  abroad 
"  from  place  to  place,  from  alehouse  to  wine 
*'  taverne,  as  many  idle  huswives  in  England 
"  doe." 

Biddulph  set  sail  from  Joppa  for  Scanderoon, 
the  air  of  which  he  describes  as  very  pestilential, 
and  strongly  advises  all  mariners  to  remain  close 
on  shipboard.  **  Making  haste  to  be  gone  from 
"  this  contagious  and  pestiferous  place,"  they 
found  a  caravan,  which  was  in  three  days  to 
arrive  at  Aleppo.  On  the  mountainous  part  of 
this  road  they  met  the  Coords,  of  whom  he  only 
states,  that  they  worship  the  Devil,  alleging, 
"  that  God  is  a  good  man,  and  will  doe  no  man 
**  harme,  but  that  the  Devil  is  bad,  and  must  be 
*'  pleased."  At  Aleppo  he  was  much  gratified 
with  the  respect  in  which  he  was  held  as  a  minis- 
ter, even  of  a  hostile  faith.  He  never  met  with 
any  wrong  except  from  his  own  countrymen, 
and  chiefly  those  who  were  most  bound  to  pro- 
tect him.  In  general,  he  cannot  help  pointing 
out  the  respect  with  which  the  ministers  of  reli- 
gion are  treated,  not  only  over  all  the  East,  but 
in  every  country  except  England,  "  where  there 
"  is  a  more  learned  ministerie  than  in  any  nation 
*'  in  the  world."  He  is  obliged  to  own,  however, 
that  the  objects  of  this  reverence  are  not  always 
very  happily  chosen.  Thus  dumb  men  and  mad- 
men are  here  reputed  eminent  saints.  Our  author 


BIDDULPH.  141 

saw  one  of  the  latter,  who  went  always  naked, 
with  a  spit  in  his  hand,  while  the  devout  hovered 
round  with  rings,  into  which  they  thought  them- 
selves too  happy  when  this  spit  was  thrust.  "  The 
*'  like  account  they  make,  if  he  take  any  thing 
"  from  their  shop-boards,  or  box  them,  or  any  of 
"  their  house.'*  There  were  seen  also  "  idle 
"  fellows  whom  they  call  Darvises,"  distinguish- 
ed by  wearing  green,  a  colour  accounted  so  sa- 
cred, that  if  a  Christian  is  observed  dressed  in  it, 
**  they  will  cut  it  from  his  backe  and  beat  him  ;" 
nay,  one  had  his  shoes  carried  off  for  only  being 
tied  with  a  green  string.  Their  food  is  very 
simple,  and  with  the  poor  consists  chiefly  of  herbs 
and  fruits.  Several  drinks  were  observed  that 
appeared  new  to  the  English  ;  among  others 
sherbet,  composed  of  water,  sugar,  and  honey, 
cooled  with  snow.  Another  was  coffa^  seeming- 
ly not  then  known  in  England,  but  which  appear- 
ed to  them  "  more  wholesome  than  toothsome." 
The  Turks  "  drink  it  off  by  leasure,"  sitting 
either  in  the  coffee-houses,  or,  which  they  rather 
prefer,  in  benches  by  the  side  of  the  street,  "  be- 
*'  ing  full  of  idle  and  alehouse  talke."  Another 
drink  was  hersh  or  opium,  "  which  maketh  them 
"  forget  themselves,  and  talke  idly  of  castles  in 
"  the  ayre."  The  water,  he  says,  is  lighter  than 
with  us,  and  "  goeth  down  more  delectably,  as 
*'  if  it  were  milke  rather  than  water." 


142  ASIATIC  TIJUKEY. 

Biddulph  saw  at  Aleppo  a  number  of  Bedouin 
Arabs,  of  whom  he  says,  "  They  live  in  huts,  and 
•'  are  here  to-day,  and  many  hundred  miles  off 
*'  within  a  few  days  after.  They  are  a  base,  beg- 
*•  garly,  and  roguish  people,  wandering  up  and 
"  down,  and  living  by  spoyle,  which  they  ac- 
**  count  no  sinne."  Their  kings,  however,  con- 
tent themselves  with  levying  a  regular  tribute 
from  the  caravans,  and  plunder  none  who  quietly 
pay  it,  with  perhaps  a  little  additional  exaction. 
**  These  Arabian  kings  never  keepe  any  money 
"  in  their  purses,  but  spend  it  as  fast  as  they 
•*  find  it ;  and  when  they  want,  with  their  sword 
"  they  seeke  a  new  purchase."  A  certain  num- 
ber of  Arabs,  however,  seek  employment  in  the 
cities  as  porters,  grooms,  and  scullions,  when 
"  their  lodgings  are  on  some  dunghill  or  other, 
"  or  odde  corner  of  the  city,  with  some  silly  tent 
"  over  their  heads.**  Their  women,  also,  "  be- 
"  ing  skilful  in  mourning  and  crying  by  arte,** 
are  frequently  hired  to  bear  a  part  in  the  noisy 
lamentation  of  eastern  funerals. 

Biddulph  draws  a  gloomy  picture  of  the  fero- 
cious despotism  which  oppressed  this  fine  coun- 
try. He  says,  "  The  grand  Seignior  only  is  free; 
*'  all  the  rest  are  borne,  brought  up,  live,  and  die 
"  his  slaves.**  The  highest  are  in  no  degree  ex- 
empted. If  but  a  Coppagie  appears,  **  with  a 
*'  greate   scale  in   a  blacke  box,'*    the  greatest 


POCOCKE.  143 

Vizier  or  Basha  dares  not  make  any  resistance, 
but  "  suffers  this  base  Coppagie  to  strangle 
'*  them."  While  Biddulph  was  at  Aleppo,  a 
Basha,  surrounded  by  a  hundred  followers,  on 
seeing  the  approach  of  this  herald  of  doom,  mere- 
ly asked  time  to  say  his  prayers.  In  return,  these 
Bashas,  while  they  remain  in  power,  tyrannize  in 
the  most  barbarous  manner  ;  strangling,  behead- 
ing, and  sometimes  **  putting  into  terrible  tor- 
"  tures  those  who  offend,  yea  oftentimes  without 
"  offence,  only  because  they  are  rich."  A  She- 
riffe,  or  descendant  of  the  prophet,  being  embol- 
dened by  this  high  descent  to  offend  the  Basha, 
had  his  limbs  broken  at  the  door  of  his  own 
house,  where  he  lay,  no  one  daring  to  afford  him 
either  relief  or  food,  till  his  friends,  by  paying 
a  sum  of  money,  obtained  permission  to  cut  his 
throat.  Divers  other  tortures  are  familiarly  em- 
ployed ;  so  that,  on  the  whole,  he  concludes, 
"  This  misery  abroad  will  make  us  love  our  own 
*'  country  the  better  ;  and  that  is  the  best  lesson 
"  I  have  learned  in  my  travels." 

We  shall  now  proceed  to  Dr  Pococke,  whose 
work  may  be  considered  as  the  most  elaborate 
and  standard  of  any  relating  to  this  part  of  the 
continent.  We  do  not  deem  it  necessary,  how- 
ever, to  follow  him  through  the  Holy  Land,  but 
ihall  begin    where,   proceeding  through    Saphet 

47 


144  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

and  Acre,  he  entered  Syria.  In  viewing  the  ter- 
ritories of  Tyre  and  Sidon,  he  could  not  help  re- 
marking with  surprise,  that  of  the  plains  which 
formed  the  territory  of  these  two  mighty  states, 
neither  exceeds  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  four 
or  five  in  breadth.  So  limited  was  the  territory 
which  commerce  alone  raised  to  the  utmost 
height  of  power  and  greatness.  Tyre,  now  call- 
ed Sur,  is  situated  on  the  island  to  which  the 
Tyrians  retired  and  made  their  last  stand,  when 
besieged  by  Alexander.  A  few  remains  were 
still  to  be  seen  of  the  old  walls,  and  of  a  strongly 
fortified  harbour.  There  was  a  large  Syrian 
church,  but  no  edifices  bearing  the  stamp  of  a 
very  high  antiquity.  The  inhabitants  were  ex- 
tremely few,  including  two  or  three  Christian 
families.  Sidon,  called  Saida,  was  a  more  con- 
siderable town,  the  residence  of  a  Pasha,  and  con- 
taining a  number  of  newly  built  houses.  The 
next  considerable  city  was  Eerytus  or  Bairoist. 
Till  of  late  its  government  had  been  given  by  the 
Porte  to  the  Prince  of  the  Druses  ;  and  one  of 
them  called  Feckerdine,  who  resided  a  considera- 
ble time  in  Italy,  had  adorned  it  with  several 
handsome  edifices,  which  gave  it  a  classical  as- 
pect. 

The  mountains  along  this  waste  were  inhabited 
by  the  Druses,  a  Christian  people,  who  live  near- 
ly independent  under   a   prince   of  their   own. 


POCOCKE.  145 

Pococke,  like  Biddulph,  fancies  they  may  be 
the  descendants  of  European  Christians  engaged 
in  the  crusading  expeditions.  They  have  a  pa- 
triarch, bishops,  and  monks,  who,  however,  are 
much  more  employed  in  the  tilling  of  land  than 
in  studious  exercises.  They  have  also  nunneries, 
which  seem  to  be  rather  hospitals,  almost  all  the 
ladies  contained  in  them  being  aged  and  decre- 
pid.  The  people  are  upon  the  whole  more  simple 
and  honest  than  is  usual  among  the  inhabitants 
of  those  countries.  Dr  Pococke  arrived  next  at 
Tripoli,  the  residence  of  a  Pacha,  and  situated  in 
a  delightful  valley,  eight  miles  from  the  foot  of 
Lebanon.  He  ascended  to  the  convent  of  Can- 
nobine,  situated  high  up  this  celebrated  moun- 
tain. The  freshness  of  the  air,  the  picturesque 
hills,  and  beautiful  cascades  which  surrounded  it, 
rendered  this  a  delightful  residence,  above  all 
when  compared  with  the  parched  plains  beneath. 
About  an  hour's  ascent  from  the  convent  brought 
them  to  a  large  plain  almost  on  the  top  of  Leba- 
non, at  one  corner  of  which  was  the  remnant  of 
the  famous  cedars.  They  formed  a  grove  of 
about  a  mile  in  circuit,  and  were  mingled  with 
pines,  from  which  the  young  cedars  were  scarce- 
ly distinguishable.  Stunted  cypresses  occupied 
here  a  higher  elevation  than  any  other  tree.  The 
natives  of  Lebanon,  though  drinking  liberally  of 
snow  water,  are  not  liable  to  goitres, 
vor.  III.  K 


146  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

Our  traveller  now  went  to  survey  the  ruins  of 
Baalbec  ;  his  observations  upon  which  we  shall 
incorporate  with  those  subsequently  made  by  Mr 
Wood.  Thence  he  proceeded  to  Damascus. 
This  affords  almost  a  solitary  example  of  a  city 
which,  existing  in  the  earliest  antiquity,  has  con- 
tinued through  all  ages,  and  under  every  vicissi- 
tude, to  be  great  and  flourishing.  Even  when 
destroyed  by  barbarous  conquerors,  it  has  risen 
instantly  from  its  ashes.  This  species  of  perma- 
nency appears  derived  from  the  extreme  felicity 
of  its  situation,  and  the  numerous  waters  by  which 
it  is  irrigated.  Pococke  gives  the  usual  account 
of  its  gardens,  though  these,  he  observes,  are 
merely  orchards,  through  which  foot-walks  and 
meandering  streams  are  conducted.  As  usual  in 
Asiatic  cities,  the  interior  is  by  no  means  distin- 
guished for  beauty,  the  streets  being  narrow  and 
dirty,  and  the  most  magnificent  palaces  present- 
ing outwardly  only  a  mass  of  dead  wall.  This 
city  no  longer  contains  the  numerous  Christian 
merchants  observed  by  Brocquiere,  though  there 
is  still  a  street  called  "  Franks'-street."  The 
Christian  inhabitants  are,  however,  supposed  to 
amount  to  ^^0,000,  but  bear  a  worse  character 
here  than  in  other  places ;  and  the  Turks  also 
are  said  to  indulge  to  a  greater  extent  than  else- 
where the  vices  for  which  they  are  infamous. 


POCOCKE.  147 

From  Damascus  Dr  Pococke  proceeded  through 
Hems,  the  ancient  Emesa,  splendidly  adorned  by 
several  of  the  Roman  emperors ;  and  Hammah, 
the  ancient  Apamea,  which  seems  to  have  risen 
to  greatness  during  the  middle  ages,  and  is  now 
in  a  very  flourishing  state.  He  then  reached 
Aleppo,  which  has  been  long  pre-eminent  among 
the  cities  of  Asiatic  Turkey.  It  is  better  built 
than  most  of  the  others,  of  hewn  freestone,  and 
with  several  magnificent  mosques  and  hanes.  The 
trade  with  Persia,  which  has  always  been  its  sta- 
ple, had  already  begun  to  decline. 

From  Aleppo  Dr  Pococke  went  on  an  excur- 
sion to  Beer,  Roumkala,  and  other  places  on  the 
Euphrates.  After  his  return  he  set  out  for  An- 
takia,  the  ancient  Antioch,  under  Seleucus  and 
the  emperors  the  voluptuous  capital  of  the  East. 
Its  limits  may  still  be  distinctly  traced,  the  whole 
circuit  of  the  walls  being  clearly  visible.  Some 
part  of  them,  which  there  is  reason  to  believe 
was  built  by  Seleucus,  are  still  perfectly  entire, 
and  equally  distinguished  by  strength  and  beau- 
ty. This  city,  after  remaining  long  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Crusaders,  was  taken,  in  1269,  by 
Bibars  the  Sultan  of  Egypt,  and  totally  destroy- 
ed. Its  churches,  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the 
world,  were  then  rased  to  the  ground.  Dr  Po- 
cocke could  only  guess  where  the  site  might  have 
been  of  those  edifices  which  were  once  the  boast 


148  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

of  Asia.  Aleppo  took  its  place  as  the  emporium 
of  Syria  ;  and  Antioch  is  now  a  poor  ill  built 
place.  The  only  remains  of  its  ancient  grandeur 
are  the  aqueducts,  which,  from  their  subterrane- 
ous position,  have  escaped  the  eye  of  the  de- 
stroyer. 

From  Antioch  our  traveller  proceeded  to  Baias 
or  Byas,  which  appears  to  be  the  same  with  Issus, 
that  celebrated  pass  from  Asia  Minor  into  Syria, 
where  the  empire  of  Asia  was  decided  between 
Darius  and  Alexander.  Dr  Pococke  believed  he 
could  trace  the  strait  between  the  hills  and  the 
sea,  into  which  the  latter  seduced  his  imprudent 
antagonist.  He  even  discovered  in  the  heart  of 
a  thick  wood  the  remains  of  a  triumphal  arch, 
seemingly  erected  to  commemorate  this  battle. 
jFrom  Baias  he  proceeded  to  Scanderoon,  which, 
though  the  port  of  Aleppo,  he  found  miserably 
poor,  and  gives  precisely  the  same  account  as 
Biddulph  of  its  pestilential  climate.  He  went 
thence  to  Kepse,  the  ancient  Seleucia,  a  most 
extraordinary  fortified  city,  built  on  a  rock,  which 
overhangs  on  one  side  the  sea,  and  on  the  other 
a  mountain  torrent.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been 
built  by  Seleucus  as  a  retreat,  in  case  of  not  being 
able  to  defend  Antioch.  There  are  very  few 
ruins  except  those  of  the  walls.  The  women  of 
Kepse  have  a  singular  fashion  of  covering  their 
head-dress  with   pieces  of  silver,   among  which 


WOOD.  149 

there  are  many  coins  and  medals  of  the  Seleu- 
cide ;  so  that  **  the  head  of  a  lady  of  Kepse  is 
"  often  a  very  valuable  piece  of  antiquity." 

Dr  Pococke  embarked  at  Tripoli,  and  the  rest 
of  his  Asiatic  journey  relates  to  Asia  Minor. 
This  quarter,  however,  was  afterwards  more  dili- 
gently surveyed  by  Chandler,  and  the  rest  of  the 
Dilletanti  mission,  in  whose  company  we  shall 
prefer  to  visit  it,  though  without  losing  sight  al- 
together of  our  present  author. 

There  are  few  individuals  to  whom  we  are 
more  indebted  for  exploring  the  most  splendid 
antiquities  of  this  part  of  Asia  than  Mr  Wood. 
He  was  invited  to  join  in  an  expedition  for  this 
purpose  by  two  friends,  Mr  Dawkins  and  Mr 
Bouverie,  who  appeared  to  possess  all  the  requi- 
sites for  this  delicate  and  arduous  undertaking. 
A  good  draftsman  was  also  engaged.  Their  main 
object  was  Palmyra,  which,  situated  in  the  depth 
of  the  Syrian  desert,  and  beyond  even  the  rude 
jurisdiction  of  the  Turkish  Pachas,  set  at  defiance 
the  approach  of  ordinary  travellers.  They  at- 
tempted to  reach  it  first  from  Aleppo,  and  then 
from  Damascus ;  but  the  governors  of  both  places 
declared  their  inability  to  secure  their  safety  in  a 
tract  so  exposed  to  Arab  incursion.  At  Damas- 
cus, however,  they  learned,  that  Hassia,  a  village 
situated  four  days'  journey  to   the   north,    was 


150  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

ruled  by  an  Aga  whose  power  reached  to  Pal- 
myra. At  Hassia  accordingly  they  met  a  cordial 
welcome,  usually  given  by  chiefs  occupying  these 
remote  situations  ;  and  though  the  object  of  their 
journey  appeared  to  him  wholly  incomprehensi- 
ble, he  furnished  them  readily  with  an  escort  of 
horse  in  order  to  effect  it.  They  passed  through 
Sudud,  Houarein,  and  Kariatein,  poor  villages ; 
in  which  were  often  seen  fragments  of  finely 
sculptured  marble,  rudely  put  together  in  the 
erection  of  cottages.  From  Kariatein  to  Palmyra 
is  a  plain  about  eighty  miles  long,  and  ten  miles 
broad,  in  which  there  is  neither  a  blade  of  grass 
nor  a  drop  of  water,  yet  where  some  fragments  of 
ancient  buildings  may  be  occasionally  observed. 
At  the  end  of  that  space,  the  hills  enclosing  the 
valley  opened,  and  they  beheld  suddenly  bursting 
on  the  view  the  most  extensive  and  magnificent 
mass  of  ruins  they  had  ever  beheld.  Range  be- 
hind range  appeared  of  Corinthian  columns  of 
white  marble,  standing  entire  after  the  walls  and 
solid  buildings,  to  which  they  were  attached,  had 
yielded  to  time.  All  around,  appeared  nothing  but 
an  immense  and  flat  desert,  extending  to  the  dis- 
tant Euphrates.  As  soon  as  they  had  recovered 
from  the  first  impression  of  vague  astonishment, 
they  began  to  take  a  more  minute  survey.  On  the 
left  appeared  the  most  entire  monument,  consist- 
ing of  a  long  range  of  wall  with  twelve  noble 


WOOD.  151 

windows,  belonging  to  the  temple  of  the  Sun,  the 
ruins  of  which  rise  above  it.  After  a  few  Turkish 
edifices,  mixed  with  some  fine  detached  columns, 
begins  a  magnificent  colonnade,  extending  for 
nearly  a  mile,  through  the  intercolumniations  of 
which  are  seen  other  superb  structures.  Further 
to  the  right  are  the  ornaments  belonging  to  two 
other  temples  ;  and  at  some  distance  in  front  are 
four  grand  columns,  belonging  to  some  edifice,  of 
which  there  remains  now  no  other  vestige.  The 
whole  plain  for  three  miles  round  is  covered  with 
columns  in  all  the  shapes  and  shades  of  ruin  ; 
some  extended  entire  along  the  ground  ;  some 
with  broken  capitals  ;  while  others  present  mere- 
ly the  scattered  stones  of  which  they  were  com- 
posed. 

Palmyra  is  still  inhabited  by  a  few  Arabs, 
whose  wretched  huts  fill  the  court  of  the  great 
temple ;  while  every  spot  of  ground  intervening 
between  the  walls  and  columns  is  laid  out  in 
plantations  of  corn  and  olives,  enclosed  by  mud 
walls.  There  are  two  rivers,  the  waters  of  which, 
judiciously  distributed,  doubtless  conduced  great- 
ly to  the  comfort  and  subsistence  of  the  ancient 
inhabitants,  but  are  now  allowed  to  lose  them- 
selves  in  the  sand. 

Palmyra  does  not  occupy  any  part  in  history 
corresponding  to  the  superb  monuments  which  it 
now  exhibits.     It  appears  to  have  been  founds 


152  ASIATIC  TURKEY, 

by  Solomon,  bearing  then  the  name  of  Tadmor  ; 
but  it  was  doubtless  at  a  subsequent  period  that 
these  wonderful  Grecian  edifices  were  erected. 
Its  greatness  could  only  arise  in  consequence  of 
becoming  the  entrepot  for  the  Indian  commodi- 
ties brought  up  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  across  the 
desert  to  Syria.  As  a  state,  it  became  illustrious 
only  for  a  short  period,  through  the  courage  and 
virtues  of  Zenobia  ;  and  by  Longinus,  in  whom 
the  classic  genius  of  Greece  for  a  moment  reviv- 
ed. After  their  fate,  Palmyra  sunk  back  into  the 
same  deep  obscurity  from  which  it  had  emerged. 
Its  very  existence  was  nearly  forgotten,  till  its 
site  was  explored  by  modern  curiosity. 

Our  travellers  surveyed  also  the  ruins  of  Baalbec, 
the  ancient  Heliopolis.  The  great  temple  here, 
dedicated  to  Baal  or  the  Sun,  is  generally  consi- 
dered as  almost  unrivalled  among  the  remains  of 
Grecian  art.  Little  more  remains  than  nine  co- 
lumns supporting  their  entablature,  which,  as  well 
as  the  portico,  is  covered  with  the  finest  sculp- 
ture. The  ornaments  are  formed  of  a  beautiful 
stone,  which  Pococke  describes  to  resemble  white 
marble,  and  which  Wood  conceives  to  be  a  coarse 
species  of  it.  The  magnitude  of  the  stones  em- 
ployed appears  truly  enormous.  The  shaft  of 
each  column  is  composed  of  three,  joined  toge- 
ther by  iron  pins,  without  any  cement.  One  of 
these  stones  was  seen  in  the  quarry,  where  it  had 


WOOD.  153 

probably  remained  for  ages,  70  feet  long,  14. 
broad,  and  14  deep,  and  estimated  to  weigh  about 
1135  tons.  The  Turks  have  made  incredible 
efforts  to  demolish  these  fine  remains  of  antiquity. 
They  have  chipped  and  undermined  the  stones 
in  every  possible  manner  j  but  the  strength  of  the 
fabric  has  in  a  great  measure  withstood  them ; 
and  even  when  they  have  overturned  the  columns, 
they  have  been  unable  to  remove  the  fragments. 
Besides  the  great  temple,  there  are  two  smaller 
ones  in  better  preservation,  though  not  possessing 
the  same  original  magnificence. 

Baalbec,  like  Palmyra,  does  not  make  a  figure 
in  history  equal  to  its  remains.  Tradition  ascribes 
them,  like  every  thing  else  here,  to  Solomon  ;  but 
a  more  probable  account  refers  their  construc- 
tion to  Antoninus  Pius.  Mr  Wood  justly  re- 
marks, that  these  deserts  of  Syria  and  Arabia 
form  the  country  of  all  others  where  the  worship 
of  the  heavenly  bodies  was  likely  to  originate. 
Nowhere  do  the  heavens  present  so  many  objects 
to  the  admiration  of  mankind,  or  the  earth  so 
few.  To  the  wanderer  over  these  boundless  and 
dreary  plains,  the  celestial  bodies  alone  occur  to 
guide  and  enliven  his  route.  The  custom  too  of 
sleeping  on  the  tops  of  the  houses,  where,  during 
every  interval  of  slumber,  they  strike  upon  the 
view,  must  cause  them  to  fill  the  mind  of  the 


154.  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

inhabitants  of  a  tropical,  much  more  than  of  a 
temperate  cHmate. 

The  observations  and  drawings  brought  home 
by  Mr  Wood  and  his  companions,  combined  with 
other  circumstances  in  exciting  throughout  this 
country  an  ardent  zeal  to  explore  and  illustrate 
the  remains  of  ancient  architecture.  With  this 
view,  the  Dilletanti  Society  determined  to  appro- 
priate L.SOOO,  to  be  employed  in  an  excursion 
through  Asia  Minor.  Dr  Chandler,  a  learned 
antiquary,  was  placed  at  its  head,  accompanied 
by  Messrs  Revett  and  Pars,  who  acted  as  drafts- 
men. The  result  of  this  expedition  appeared  in 
the  work  entitled,  "  Antiquities  of  Ionia  ;"  in  a 
collection  of  valuable  inscriptions  published  by 
Dr  Chandler,  and  in  his  narrative  of  the  tour. 

The  party  landed  at  Smyrna,  which  had  been 
fixed  upon  as  their  head-quarters.  This  distin- 
guished capital  of  Asia  Minor  was  founded  by 
Alexander,  whose  choice  of  situations  has  been 
peculiarly  happy.  It  w^as  accounted  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  Ionian  cities,  and  was  extolled 
by  the  ancients  under  the  pompous  titles  of  "  the 
*'  lovely,  the  crown  of  Ionia,  the  ornament  of 
*'  Asia."  According  to  a  very  usual  Grecian 
system,  its  principal  public  buildings  were  erect- 
ed on  the  face  of  a  hill  fronting  the  sea.  The 
hill  supplied  marble,   while  its  slope  afforded  a 


CHANDLER.  155 

place  for  the  seats,  rising  gradually  above  each 
other,  in  the  stadium,  or  great  theatre  for  the  ex- 
hibition of  games.  This  city  being  one  of  the 
chief  theatres  of  contention  between  the  Ottoman 
Porte  and  the  Greek  empire,  was  nearly  ruined  ; 
and  after  being  in  some  degree  restored,  it  was 
taken  and  plundered  by  Timur  in  1402.  The 
consequence  is,  that  almost  every  trace  of  the 
ancient  city  is  obliterated.  The  vaulted  foun- 
dation of  the  stadium  remains,  but  its  area  is 
sown  with  grain.  There  are  only  a  few  vestiges 
of  the  theatre  ;  and  the  castle  which  crowns  the 
hill  is  chiefly  a  patch-work,  erected  by  John  Com- 
nenus  upon  the  ruins  of  the  old  one,  whose  walls, 
of  immense  strength  and  thickness,  may  still  be 
discovered.  Smyrna,  in  the  course  of  its  revolu- 
tions, has  slid  down,  as  it  were,  from  the  hill  to 
the  sea,  close  to  which  it  is  now  situated.  Under 
the  Turkish  empire,  it  has  completely  regained 
its  populousness,  and  has  become  the  centre  of 
the  commerce  of  what  is  called  the  Levant.  Its 
mosques,  bezerten,  and  other  buildings,  are  also 
very  handsome,  being  built  chiefly  from  the  mar- 
ble of  the  ancient  structures. 

In  an  excursion  from  Smyrna,  the  travellers, 
searching  for  the  ancient  Clazomene,  came  to 
Vourla.  The  place  was  considerable,  but  could 
not  be  Clazomene,  for  any  thing  that  could  direct 
them  to  which  they  inquired  in  vain.     At  length 


156  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

they  recollected  the  mole  thrown  across  by  Alex- 
ander from  the  shore  to  the  island  on  which  it 
was  built ;  and  by  careful  examination  they  trac- 
ed "  this  monument  of  that  great  mind,  which 
"  delighted  in  correcting  or  subduing  nature,  by 
**  fiUing  up  or  forming  paths  for  the  deep."  It 
was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  thirty  feet 
broad.  They  crossed  it,  not  without  difficulty,  the 
swell  being  high,  and  the  waves  washing  over  it. 
They  found  it  entirely  deserted,  and  could  only 
trace  some  faint  vestiges  of  the  walls  and  theatre. 
They  next  visited  Teos,  near  the  modern  Sevri- 
Hissar.  They  could  trace  its  walls,  five  miles  in 
circumference,  and  delineated  the  remains  of  the 
temple  of  Bacchus,  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
structures  of  Ionia.  The  place  was  entirely  de- 
serted ;  the  site  presented  only  a  field  of  barley 
in  ear,  buffaloes  ploughing  heavily  by  the  side  of 
prostrate  edifices,  and  fences  of  stones  and  rub- 
bish, covered  with  illegible  inscriptions. 

The  travellers  now  set  out  on  the  grand  object 
of  discovering  Ephesus,  the  second  city  of  Asia 
Minor.  They  had  to  pass  over  a  road  infested 
by  the  wandering  Turcomans,  who  *'  overspread 
"  without  controul  the  vast  neglected  pastures  of 
'*  this  desert  empire."  The  country  appeared 
accordingly  covered  with  the  innumerable  black 
booths  of  these  Nomades,  with  their  cattle  and 
poultry  feeding  round.     At  length  they  reached 


CHANDLER.  157 

Aiasaluck,  where,  amid  some  miserable  cottages, 
they  saw  large  ruins,  a  huge  castle  and  mosque. 
There  was  no  beauty,  however,  unless  in  the 
single  stones  ;  and  Aiasaluck,  even  in  its  glory, 
had  evidently  not  been  Ephesus,  but  only  patched 
from  its  fragments.  At  a  little  distance,  how- 
ever, the  ancient  city  was  at  length  discovered. 
Considerable  remains  of  the  theatre,  odeon,  gym- 
nasium, and  other  structures,  were  found ;  but 
the  temple  of  Diana,  the  pride  of  Ephesus  and  of 
Asia,  had  not  left  the  slightest  trace  of  its  exist- 
ence. A  few  wretched  Greeks  now  seek  shelter 
here  in  the  vaults  and  sepulchres. 

The  next  grand  object  was  to  visit  the  site  of 
Miletus,  distinguished  by  the  remains  of  a  truly 
immense  theatre,  built  on  the  face  of  a  mountain 
which  overhangs  the  city.  It  had  been  457  feet 
long,  and  faced  with  marble,  but  only  a  few  of 
the  seats,  with  the  vaulted  foundation,  remain 
entire.  The  whole  site  is  covered  with  rubbish, 
fragments  of  wall,  and  broken  arches.  This  city, 
once  pre-eminent  for  power,  commerce,  and  learn- 
ing, was  distinguished  even  in  antiquity  as  fallen  j 
but  how  much  more  would  this  character  apply 
to  it  now?  They  discovered  also  a  temple  of 
Bacchus  and  other  ruins,  distinguishing  a  place 
called  Myus,  the  inhabitants  of  which  had,  by  the 
sudden  irruption  of  a  body  of  water,  been  driven 
to  Miletus.     Some  doubts,  however,  have  been 


158  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

raised  by  modern  inquirers,  whether  the  spots  in 
question  really  belong  to  these  ancient  cities. 
Near  Kelibesh  they  found,  among  the  ruins  of 
Priene,  a  temple  of  Minerva  Pallas,  which,  as  a 
remain  of  Ionian  elegance  and  grandeur,  was 
judged  well  worthy  of  delineation. 

Dr  Chandler  examined  also  the  following  an- 
cient cities :  Laodicea,  distinguished  by  consi- 
derable remains  of  a  vast  amphitheatre,  a  thou- 
sand feet  in  extent ;  also  of  an  odeon,  the  seats 
of  which  remained,  though  the  proscenium  or 
front  lay  in  a  confused  heap.  It  was  of  marble, 
and  covered  with  sculpture,  but  the  style  savour- 
ed less  of  Grecian  taste  than  of  Roman  magnifi- 
cence.— Hierapolis,  now  Pambouk,  distinguished 
by  an  amazing  structure,  destined  either  for  baths 
or  for  a  gymnasium  ;  the  huge  vaults  of  the  roof 
could  not  be  viewed  from  underneath  without 
horror.  The  theatre  was  also  large  and  sumptu- 
ous, and  the  least  ruined  of  any  yet  seen. — Phila- 
delphia, now  Ala  Shehr.  This  place,  notwith- 
standing the  multiplied  earthquakes  that  have 
shaken  it,  remains  still  a  mean,  but  considerable 
place.  The  only  trace  of  the  ancient  city  men- 
tioned consists  of  the  walls,  many  remnants  of 
which  are  standing,  though  with  large  gaps. — Sar- 
dis,  near  a  poor  village  called  Sart,  presents  a 
number  of  ruins  confusedly  scattered  over  a  ver- 
dant plain.     Some  of  the  most  remarkable  are  of 


CLARKE.  159 

brick,  so  strongly  cemented,  that  the  author 
could  not,  without  extreme  difficulty,  detach  a 
single  specimen.  These  structures  are  attributed 
to  Croesus  ;  and  it  is  supposed  that,  without  some 
very  positive  violence,  they  would  last  for  ever. 
Magnesia  is  still  a  large  and  flourishing  city, 
situated  in  a  beautiful  plain,  and  containing  two 
fine  mosques  of  marble.  Pococke  mentions  the 
remains  of  a  very  grand  temple,  supposed  to  be 
that  of  Diana  Leucophryne,  which  ranked  only 
second  to  the  Ephesian  temple.  There  are  also 
very  imperfect  remains  of  a  theatre.  Dr  Pococke 
surveyed  likewise  Angora,  the  ancient  Amisa, 
capital  of  Galatia,  but  found  no  antiquities,  ex- 
cept a  few  remarkable  pillars  and  inscriptions. 
The  town  was  very  large,  and  estimated  to  con- 
tain 100,000  souls. 

This  part  of  Asia,  unlike  some  others,  has  been 
visited  more  frequently  than  in  proportion  to  its 
importance.  Passing  over,  therefore,  a  host  of 
minor,  and  even  some  respectable  travellers,  we 
shall  traverse  some  of  its  most  interesting  por- 
tions in  company  with  Dr  Clarke,  whose  strong 
powers  of  observation,  with  his  eloquent  and  ani- 
mated pictures  of  the  objects  both  of  art  and  na- 
ture, have  raised  him  to  so  high  a  rank  among 
modern  travellers.  His  profound  skill  in  anti- 
quities peculiarly  qualified  him  for  exploring  a 

47 


160  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

region,  of  which  they  form  the  prominent  fea- 
ture. 

Dr  Clarke  embarked  at  Constantinople,  and 
sailed  down  the  Hellespont.  Nothing,  he  ob- 
serves, could  be  grander  than  the  opening  into 
the  Aegean  sea,  bordered  by  the  vast  mountains 
of  Imbros  and  Samothrace.  He  then  landed  and 
took  a  careful  survey  of  the  plain  of  Troy  and  its 
bordering  mountains.  Our  limits  do  not  allow 
us  to  plunge  into  the  depths  of  the  Trojan  con- 
troversy. Since  the  doubts  of  Bryant,  and  the 
hypothesis  of  Chevalier,  it  has  exercised  the  pens 
o£  many  learned  writers,  whose  works  must  be 
studied  in  order  to  judge  of  the  many  minute 
points  upon  which  it  depends.  To  my  own 
mind  there  never  appeared  any  doubt  on  the 
general  question.  That  Homer  should  not  have 
founded  his  narrative  upon  some  real  historical 
events,  and  should  not  at  all  events  have  given 
an  accurate  view  of  the  spot  on  which  he  repre- 
sented them,  seemed  quite  inconsistent,  both  with 
his  own  topographical  knowledge,  and  with  the 
state  of  society  at  the  period  when  he  wrote.  Dr 
Clarke,  in  fact,  observes,  that  whatever  difficulty 
may  exist  as  to  the  minutiae,  all  the  prominent 
features  of  Homer's  picture  are  incontestably 
visible — the  Hellespont — the  island  of  Tenedos 
— the  plain — the  river  still  inundating  its  banks  j 
and  the  mountain  whence  it  issues.    He  observes. 


CLARKE.  161 

that  a  fertile  plain,  and  a  mountain  abruptly  rising 
from  it,  are  two  features  which  usually  combine 
in  the  site  of  ancient  cities.  From  the  one  the 
citizens  drew  their  subsistence,  while  the  other 
became  the  citadel,  to  which  they  retired  on  the 
approach  of  danger. 

Entering  on  the  plain  of  Troy,  there  occurred 
first  the  Mender,  which  its  name,  and  every  cir- 
cumstance, seemed  clearly  to  fix  as  the  Scaman- 
der.  Dr  Clarke  found  also  the  Thymbrius,  un- 
der the  modern  appellation  of  Thymbroek,  though 
other  inquirers  conceive  it  to  be  the  Simois. 
This  last  he  believed  himself  to  recognize  in  the 
Callifat  Osmack,  which  rolls  to  the  Scamander, 
though  by  a  sluggish  stream,  through  an  exten- 
sive plain,  which  thus  becomes  that  of  Simois, 
on  which  were  fought  the  great  battles  recorded 
in  the  Iliad.  Strabo  had  mentioned,  that  New 
Ilium,  the  city  existing  in  his  time,  was  situated 
nearly  four  miles  in  a  certain  direction  from  the 
original  city.  In  this  distance  and  direction  Dr 
Clarke  discovered  two  spots  marked  by  ruins, 
which,  from  different  circumstances,  seem  very 
likely  to  have  been  Old  and  New  Troy.  The 
grandeur  of  the  scenery  viewed  from  this  plain  is 
said  to  be  almost  indescribable  :  Samothrace  on 
one  side,  rearing  behind  Imbrus  its  snow-clad 
summit,  shining  bright  on  a  cloudless  sky  ;  while 
on  the  other  side  Gargarus,  the  highest  of  the 

VOL.  111.  1. 


162  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

chain  of  Ida,  rises  to  at  least  an  equal  elevation. 
The  descriptive  powers  of  the  bard  became  more 
strongly  felt ;  and  the  steps  of  his  deities,  while 
they  swept  from  mountain  to  mountain,  could  be 
distinctly  traced. 

Dr  Clarke  ascended  to  Bonarbashy,  where 
Troy,  and  the  sources  of  the  Scamander,  had 
been  idly  placed  by  Chevalier.  Instead  of  two 
fountains,  one  hot  and  one  cold,  as  had  been  re- 
ported, he  found  them  numerous,  and  all  warm, 
raising  the  thermometer  to  6^°.  They  did  not 
form  the  source  of  the  Scamander,  which  lies 
forty  miles  in  the  interior,  and  which  Dr  Clarke 
determined  to  visit.  He  passed  through  grand 
rocky  defiles  resembling  some  of  the  passes  in  the 
Tyrol.  Shepherds  were  playing  their  reed  pipes 
among  the  rocks,  and  herds  of  goats  and  sheep 
browzing.  A  wild  mountaineer  race,  distinguish- 
ed by  sandals  of  undressed  bulls'  hides,  occasion- 
ally shewed  themselves.  He  came  to  a  town 
called  ^ne,  suggesting  the  name  of  ^neas,  who 
is  said  to  have  retired  and  reigned  in  the  moun- 
tainous district  above  Troy.  After  passing  through 
the  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  district  of 
Beyramitsh,  he  came  to  Turkmanle,  where  the 
most  hospitable  reception  was  experienced.  Hence 
he  ascended,  with  difficulty  and  danger,  across 
narrow  ridges  of  ice  and  snow,  the  loftiest  sum- 
mit  of  Gargarus.      From    this   point,    all    Asia 


CLARKE.  1G3 

Minor  and  European  Turkey  appeared  as  if  mo- 
delled on  a  vast  surface  of  glass.  He  afterwards 
went  to  visit  the  source  of  the  Scamander,  which 
he  found  in  a  grand  natural  amphitheatre,  amid 
craggy  and  pine-clad  rocks,  alpine  summits,  and 
roaring  cataracts.  In  descending,  he  had  a  view 
of  the  ruins  of  Alexandria  Troas,  and  was  parti- 
cularly struck  by  their  colossal  character  ;  so  that 
though  materials  have  been  drawn  from  them  for 
the  ornament  of  all  the  neighbouring  cities,  they 
continue  still  very  extensive.  The  theatre,  and 
the  baths,  were  in  particularly  good  preserva- 
tion. 

Dr  Clarke  viewed  also  the  ruins  of  Telmessus, 
in  the  Gulf  of  Glaucus,  on  the  coast  of  Cara- 
mania.  The  most  conspicuous  object  was  the 
theatre,  built  as  usual  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  along 
whose  slope  the  seats  were  disposed.  They  were 
in  twenty-eight  rows,  and  in  front  extended  a 
noble  terrace,  to  which  a  magnificent  flight  of 
steps  conducted  from  the  sea.  One  of  the  most 
remarkable  features  was  a  large  vaulted  apart- 
;nent  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  on  one  side  of  which 
was  a  hollow  recess,  of  which  no  trace  appeared 
externally.  This  is  supposed  to  be  an  oracular 
cave,  where  the  priest,  concealed  within  the  re- 
cess, uttered  a  sound  believed  to  be  supernatural. 
The  whole  face  also  of  a  large  rock  fronting  the 
«ea  was  cut  out  into  magnificent  tombs. 


lt)4.  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

The  remainder  of  Dr  Clarke's  travels  in  Asia 
was  chiefly  employed  in  a  visit  to  Jerusalem  and 
the  principal  places  in  its  neighbourhood.  These 
scenes  of  the  great  events  of  scripture  history- 
were  surveyed  by  him  with  just  devotional 
warmth,  and  without  any  of  that  blind  credulity 
which  beset  the  early  pilgrims.  With  him,  there- 
fore, we  shall  gladly  survey  the  present  state  of 
these  celebrated  spots,  as  we  endeavoured  to 
glean  from  the  others  their  condition  at  an  early 
period. 

Dr  Clarke  landed  at  Acre,  rendered  again  cele- 
brated by  the  events  of  the  French  expedition, 
and  now  the  residence  of  Dsjezzar  Pacha.  This 
extraordinary  barbarian,  who  had  held  his  power 
for  twenty  years,  accounted  himself  now  inde- 
pendent of  the  Porte,  and  undisputed  master  of 
Syria  and  Palestine.  His  name  signified  butcher, 
which  he  was  not  unwilling  to  have  understood. 
The  approaches  to  his  palace  were  guarded  by 
persons  from  whom,  on  any  displeasure,  he  had 
ordered  the  arm,  nose,  eye,  or  other  member  to 
be  cut  off;  '*  marked  men,"  as  he  called  them, 
and  who  were  held  ready  to  perform  the  same 
office  for  others.  His  haram  was  secured  by 
three  massive  doors,  which  he  every  evening 
opened  and  locked  with  his  own  hand,  and  pro- 
visions were  introduced  into  it  by  a  turning  wheel, 
so  constructed  that  nothing  was  seen  of  the  per- 


CLARKE.  16.5 

son  within  who  received  them.  The  females  in- 
troduced into  it  were  never  more  heard  of,  nor 
was  it  ever  known  whether  they  were  dead  or 
alive.  Our  author  found  him  in  an  apartment 
destitute  of  all  furniture,  except  a  coarse  earthen 
vessel  for  cooling  water ;  he  wore  a  plain  Arab 
dress,  and  apologized  for  having  a  poignard  set 
with  diamonds,  as  being  a  necessary  ensign  of 
office.  He  received  them  with  very  little  cere- 
mony ;  and  during  the  interview  employed  him- 
self in  cutting  paper  into  various  shapes,  and  in 
tedious  and  idle  tales,  parables,  and  truisms.  On 
their  expressing  wonder  at  the  magnitude  of  his 
preparations  against  the  Druses,  he  asked  why  a 
pismire  should  be  permitted  to  creep  upon  your 
cheek ;  and  expressed  deep  indignation  at  Sir 
Sidney  Smith's  interference  in  behalf  of  that  un- 
fortunate race.  It  was  even  confidentially  own- 
ed by  his  secretary,  that  he  intended  to  kill  Sir 
Sidney  if  he  ever  had  him  in  his  power. 

Dr  Clarke  having  obtained  permission  to  visit 
the  Holy  Land,  set  out  with  a  party  of  his  friends, 
being  furnished  from  Dsjezzar  with  an  escort, 
and  an  order  to  supply  him  with  whatever  he 
wanted.  He  passed  through  a  fine  country,  ren- 
dered almost  uncultivated  by  the  tyranny  of  its 
ruler,  to  Sepphouri,  formerly  the  capital  of  Gali- 
lee, but  now  a  miserable  village.  It  was  distin- 
guished by  the  ruins  of  a  Gothic  church  erected 


166  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

over  the  supposed  house  of  St  Anne,  and  where 
Dr  Clarke  in  fact  made  the  curious  discovery  of 
some  very  ancient  pictures,  similar  to  those  which 
are  worshipped  in  Russia.  He  found  himself  now 
in  the  region  of  indulgences,  relics,  and  pious 
frauds  of  every  kind.  He  laments,  that  of  the 
numerous  Christians  who  reside  in  the  Holy 
Land,  there  are  scarcely  any  who  are  not  a  dis- 
grace to  their  profession,  from  their  ignorance, 
and  often  their  disorderly  lives.  Many  well 
meaning  persons  had  been  so  disgusted  with  their 
follies  and  impositions,  that  they  considered  the 
whole  as  a  trick,  and  went  away  worse  Christians 
than  they  came.  Our  author,  however,  deter- 
mined to  regard  nothing  but  the  Bible  itself;  and 
on  comparing  carefully  its  narrative  with  the  ac- 
tual features  of  the  country,  he  was  alike  edified 
and  astonished  at  the  exact  correspondence  be- 
tween them. 

Nazareth  was  found  reduced  to  a  deplorable 
state  by  the  tyranny  of  Dsjezzar  ;  yet  the  terror 
of  his  name  procured  to  the  travellers  an  imme- 
diate supply  of  all  they  wanted.  In  this  early 
residence  of  the  holy  family,  the  trade  of  wonders 
and  relics  was  carried  on  upon  a  still  greater  scale, 
and  several  pretended  miracles  were  even  exhi- 
bited, the  cheat  of  which  was  easily  perceived. 
From  Nazareth  Dr  Clarke  proceeded  to  view  the 
Lake  of  Tiberias,  called  also  Gennesareth.      He 


CL4HKE.  IG? 

was  particularly  struck  by  the  grandeur  of  its 
scenery,  and  the  lofty  mountains  by  which  it  was 
bordered.  The  summit  of  Libanus  appeared  to 
the  north,  covered  with  deep  snow  even  at  this 
hot  season.  The  party  were  very  desirous  to 
ascend  Tabor  ;  but  were  assured  of  its  being  oc- 
cupied by  so  strong  a  body  of  Arabs  as  to  ren- 
der the  attempt  quite  unsafe.  They  passed 
through  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  the  scene  of  en- 
campment to  numerous  armies,  and  the  most  fer- 
tile part  of  Judea.  This  was  attested,  even  in  its 
present  uncultivated  state,  by  the  rich  verdure 
which  clothed  it.  Returning  through  Nazareth, 
he  proceeded  to  Naplous,  or  Napolose,  the  ancient 
Sichem,  capital  of  Samaria.  The  aspect  of  the 
country  presented  here  a  happy  change.  This 
territory  was  subject  to  the  Pacha  of  Damascus, 
who  appears  to  have  adopted  a  much  more  bene- 
ficent system  of  government  than  the  tyrant  of 
Acre.  The  surrounding  district  was  not  only 
fertile,  but  in  the  highest  cultivation  ;  and  seve- 
ral caravans  stationed  round  shewed  it  to  be  the 
seat  of  a  considerable  inland  trade.  The  gover- 
nor regaled  them  with  all  the  magnificence  of  an 
eastern  sovereign.  Here  were  found,  fixed  seem- 
ingly by  sure  tradition,  the  tombs  of  Joseph,  of 
Eleazer,  and  of  Joshua,  spacious  sepulchres  hewn 
in  the  living  rock. 


1(38  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

The  journey  from  this  place  to  Jerusalem  pre- 
sented a  striking  feature  of  high  cultivation.  The 
limestone  hills  and  stony  valleys  were  covered 
with  plantations  of  figs,  vines,  and  olives ;  and 
even  the  most  rugged  mountains  were  rendered 
productive  by  being  formed  into  terraces.  He 
views  it,  in  short,  as  "  the  Eden  of  the  East  ;'* 
and  conceives  it  clearly  to  shew,  that  the  Holy 
Land,  if  every  where  equally  improved,  would  be 
indeed  a  land  of  abundance.  Strong  emotions 
were  felt  by  the  party  as  they  approached  the 
spot  where  they  were  to  obtain  the  first  view  of 
Jerusalem.  After  two  hours  of  earnest  expecta- 
tion, a  Greek  of  the  party  exclaimed  Hagiopolis  / 
and  threw  himself  on  his  knees.  They  were 
struck  with  the  grandeur  of  the  spectacle.  In- 
stead of  a  wretched  and  ruined  town,  as  some 
had  described  it,  they  beheld  a  flourishing  and 
stately  metropolis  ;  domes,  towers,  palaces,  and 
monasteries,  shining  in  the  sun*s  rays  with  in- 
conceivable splendour.  In  honour  of  Dsjezzar 
Pacha,  they  were  honoured  with  a  public  entry ; 
during  which,  some  of  the  inhabitants  welcomed, 
others  abused  them  as  dogs  and  infidels.  The 
Franciscan  convent  of  St  Salvador,  a  large  build- 
ing like  a  fortress,  was  thrown  open,  and  admit- 
ted their  whole  cavalcade  within  its  vast  portals, 
which  were  immediately  closed.  They  were 
then  welcomed  by  monks,  whose  ample  size  and 


CLARKE.  169 

rosv  countenances  would  have  done  honour  to 
the  best  endowed  house  of  Spain  or  Italy.  The 
accommodation  and  fare  were  good  ;  they  were 
even  supplied  with  tea,  a  luxury  to  which  they 
had  been  for  some  time  unused. 

It  was  now  time  to  visit  the  grand  object  of 
pilgrimage,  the  church  of  Calvary  and  of  the  se- 
pulchre. Its  outward  appearance  resembled  that 
of  any  handsome  Catholic  church.  Over  the 
door  was  a  very  ancient  has  relief,  representing 
the  Messiah's  entrance  into  Jerusalem.  On  en- 
tering, a  slab  of  white  marble  was  shewn  as  the 
spot  where  his  body  was  anointed.  In  the  mid- 
dle was  a  dusty  fabric,  compared  to  a  huge  pep- 
per-box, on  entering  which  they  were  shewn  the 
sepulchre,  with  the  stone  on  which  the  angel  sat. 
To  Dr  Clarke,  who  had  particularly  studied  se- 
pulchres, this  did  not  present  tke  slightest  ap- 
pearance of  one  ;  it  was  not,  like  all  others  in 
the  East,  cut  out  of  the  rock,  but  the  sides  formed 
of  fine  verd-antique  marble :  and  the  stone  did 
not  fit  its  mouth.  They  were  then  led  into  a 
room  above,  and  were  shewn  an  altar  stated  to 
be  Mount  Calvary,  and  exhibiting  the  marks  of 
the  three  crosses,  though  within  a  space  wholly 
inadequate.  The  whole  aspect  of  the  place  sa- 
tisfied Dr  Clarke,  that  this  supposed  site  of  the 
crucifixion  and  entombment  rests  wholly  in  the 
imagination  of  Queen  Helena,  the  fair  founder  j 


170  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

and  stands  supported  by  no  argument,  except  the 
accidental  rent  in  the  rock,  which  is  shewn  as 
that  miraculously  produced  at  the  crucifixion. 
Calvary  besides  was  without  the  limits  of  the  an- 
cient Jerusalem,  while  the  church  is  within  the 
contracted  bounds  of  the  modern  city.  Our  author 
was  therefore  led  to  make  a  diligent  search  in  a 
glen  or  dingle  without  the  walls,  separating  the 
present  city  from  an  opposite  hill.  He  found 
both  sides  of  it  covered  with  tombs,  hewn  after 
the  manner  of  the  ancients  out  of  the  solid  rock, 
of  various  forms  and  dimensions,  but  some  truly 
magnificent.  Here  it  appeared  to  him  that  both 
Calvary  and  the  tomb  were  certainly  to  be  found, 
though  it  was  difficult  to  fix  on  the  precise  spots. 
Several  inscriptions,  with  some  striking  ruins, 
seemed  to  point  out  the  opposite  hill  as  Mount 
Sion,  the  celebrated  and  sacred  citadel  of  Jerusa- 
lem :  in  which  case,  the  eminence  called  by  the 
moderns  Mount  Sion,  will  form  merely  part  of 
Mount  Moriah,  and  the  modern  city  will  be  built 
on  that  hill  alone.  In  some  of  the  tombs  around 
Jerusalem  paintings  were  found,  similar  to  those 
which  adorn  the  walls  of  Herculaneum  and  Pom- 
peii. The  most  distinguished  tombs  are  those 
known  by  the  name  of  the  sepulchres  of  the  pa- 
triarchs, of  the  kings,  and  of  the  Virgin  ;  though 
there  seems  much  doubt  as  to  the  persons  by 
wjiom,    or    in    wljose   honour,    they   were   reallv 


CLARKE— KINXEIR.  I7I 

erected.  The  most  magnificent  edifice  in  this 
city  is  the  mosque  of  Omar,  built  upon  the  site 
of  the  ancient  temple  of  Solomon.  The  lofty 
Saracenic  pomp  which  characterizes  the  struc- 
ture, its  numerous  arcades,  capacious  dome,  and 
area  paved  with  the  choicest  marbles,  joined  to 
the  sumptuous  costume  of  the  devotees  passing 
to  and  from  the  sanctuary,  render  it  altogether 
one  of  the  finest  sights  which  the  Moslems  have 
to  boast. 

The  population  of  Jerusalem  is  estimated,  on 
vague  conjecture,  at  20  or  30,000  inhabitants. 
The  houses  are  lofty,  and  the  streets  cleaner  than 
those  of  any  other  city  in  the  Levant,  though,  like 
all  of  them,  very  narrow.  The  only  manufactures 
are  beads,  crosses,  and  shells  ;  the  two  former  of 
which  are  made  partly  of  a  species  of  hard  wood, 
and  partly  of  the  black  fetid  limestone  of  the 
lake  Asphaltites. 

Our  analysis  of  Dr  Clarke's  narrative  having 
extended  to  so  considerable  a  length,  we  shall 
omit  his  return  by  the  common  route  of  Bethle- 
hem and  Jaffa. 

Mr  Macdonald  Kinneir,  whose  exertions  have 
contributed  so  much  to  extend  our  knowledge 
of  Western  Asia,  performed  a  series  of  journeys 
through  Asia  Minor,  which  form  the  best  account 
we  now  possess  of  the  present  state  of  this  part  of 


172  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

the  Turkish  empire.  After  leaving  Constanti- 
nople, the  first  place  of  importance  at  which  he 
arrived  was  Nice,  once  the  capital  of  Bithynia, 
and  the  seat  of  several  general  councils.  It  is 
now  much  decayed,  but  contains  a  number  of 
striking  ruins,  particularly  some  Roman  walls, 
which  have  acquired  the  solidity  of  rock.  He 
came  next  to  Eskishehr,  situated  in  a  great  plain, 
having  a  dry  and  parched  appearance,  where 
Godfrey  of  Bouillon  defeated  Sultan  Soliman. 
This  was  found  a  wretched  place,  exhibiting  no- 
thing worthy  of  notice,  except  a  few  inscriptions. 
Here,  while  Mr  Kinneir  was  sitting  in  his  lodg- 
ings, one  of  those  Dervishes  who,  from  being 
mad,  are  reverenced  as  sacred,  came  in,  struck 
him  with  the  end  of  a  lance,  and  loudly  protested 
against  the  indignity  of  an  infidel  entering  the 
habitation  of  a  holy  man.  It  really  appears  to 
have  been  his  own  house,  which  seems  to  make 
his  conduct  not  quite  so  presumptuous  as  it  ap- 
peared to  Mr  Kinneir,  who  hastened  to  the  Aga, 
demanding  his  punishment.  The  Aga,  however, 
replied,  that  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  deal 
severely  with  a  person  so  much  respected  in  the 
city,  but  held  out  some  evidently  delusive  expec- 
tation of  chastising  him  at  some  future  period. 
Mr  Kinneir,  therefore,  returned  to  his  lodgings  ; 
where  the  insults  of  this  person  still  continuing, 
he  was  advised  to  decamp,  as  in  case  of  a  quarrel 


KINNEIR.  17^ 

the  whole  town  would  have  taken  the  part  of  his 
holy  antagonist. 

Mr  Kinneir  now  passed  through  Sever  Hissar 
and  Yerma,  where  he  found  ruins  ;  but  this  part 
of  Phrygia  was  anciently  so  covered  with  cities, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  identify  any  particular  place. 
The  inhabitants  smiled  when  he  asked  for  ruined 
places,  assuring  him  the  whole  country  was  over- 
spread with  them.  The  agriculture  here  is  wretch- 
ed ;  the  plough  often  is  not  even  shod  with  iron, 
and  is  drawn  sometimes  by  ten  or  twelve  oxen. 
The  harrow  is  merely  a  large  bunch  of  thorns, 
with  a  stone  laid  across  to  increase  the  pressure. 
The  grain  is  threshed  by  cattle,  wind  being  chiefly 
relied  upon  for  separating  the  chaff.  A  great 
part  of  the  country  was  covered  with  the  roving 
Turkmans,  a  boisterous  and  ignorant  race,  but 
much  more  honourable  and  hospitable  than  the 
inhabitants  of  the  towns. 

Mr  Kinneir  now  reached  Angora,  the  capital 
of  an  extensive  Pachalic,  and  the  scene  of  the 
great  battle  between  Timur  and  Bajazet.  It 
contains  20,000  inhabitants,  chiefly  Armenians, 
and  is  distinguished  by  the  ruinsof  a  temple  erec- 
ted in  honour  of  Augustus.  The  Pacha  seems 
to  be  a  brutal  tyrant,  who  monopolizes  all  the 
necessaries  of  life  in  his  dominions,  and  retails 
them  at  high  prices  ;  so  that  the  people  are  com- 
pelled to  emigrate  in  great  numbers  to  the  neigh- 


174  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

bouring   government  of  Chapwan  Oglu.      The 
travellers  soon  entered  the  territory  of  that  chief, 
the  most  powerful  in  Asia  Minor,  maintaining  ah 
army  of  40,000  men,  and  almost  entirely  inde- 
pendent of  the  Grand  Seignior.     Ooscat,  where 
he  resides,  has  been  almost  entirely  created  by 
him,  and  contains  now  a  population  of  16,000. 
He  has  built  a  very  extensive  palace,  and  lives  in 
great  pomp.     He  had  a  dignified  deportment  and 
a  long  white  beard  ;   made  many  inquiries  about 
the   politics  of  Europe,   and  particularly  about 
Buonaparte,  of  whom  he  expressed  a  vast  admi- 
ration.    Our  traveller  passed  through  Caesarea, 
the  ancient  capital  of  Cappadocia,  a  mean  dirty 
city,   but  containing  ^5,000  inhabitants,   and  a 
considerable  trade  in  cotton,  produced  abundant- 
ly in  its  neighbourhood.     He  then  proceeded  to 
Tarsus,  the  celebrated  capital  of  ancient  Cilicia, 
but  was  surprised,  after  a  stay  of  eight  days,  not 
to  discover  a  single  inscription  or  monument  of 
art.     It  is  situated,  however,  in  a  fertile  country, 
has  30,000  inhabitants,   and  a  pretty  extensive 
foreign  trade.     Mr  Kinneir  then  surveyed  the 
pass  into  Cilicia,  and  the  scene  of  the  battle  of 
Issus.     Pias  or  Byas,  which  corresponds  to  that 
ancient  place,  had  lately  been  considerable  as  the 
seat  of  a  rebel  chief,  who  being  subdued,   Pias 
was  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins.     Scanderoon  was 
found  sunk  into  a  poor  fishing  village.     I.atakia 


KINNEin.  175 

was  now  the  port  of  Aleppo ;  but  even  this  did 
not  secure  any  extensive  trade,  in  consequence 
of  the  low  state  to  which  Aleppo  itself  was  fallen. 
The  whole  of  this  country  is  in  a  state  of  com- 
plete decay  and  depopulation,  in  consequence  of 
the  tyranny  of  the  Pachas,  and  their  contests 
with  each  other.  However,  a  body  of  Janissary 
chiefs,  who  had  obtained  possession  of  Aleppo, 
had  lately  been  betrayed  and  massacred,  and  the 
place  seized  by  a  son  of  Chapvvan  Oglu,  to  the 
general  satisfaction  of  the  inhabitants,  who  pre- 
ferred one  tyrant  to  many. 

Mr  Kinneir  afterwards  performed  a  journey 
through  the  north  of  Asia  Minor,  by  a  route 
which  European  travellers  have  seldom  followed. 
He  came  first  to  Isnikmid,  the  ancient  Nicome- 
dia,  under  Dioclesian  the  capital  of  the  Roman 
empire.  It  is  now  a  small  town  with  seven  hun- 
dred families,  and  presenting  even  no  ruins  to  at- 
test its  former  magnificence.  He  was  now  in  the 
ancient  Bithynia,  which  he  found  a  beautiful  and 
romantic  country,  intersected  with  lofty  moun- 
tains and  fertile  valleys,  and  abounding  in  vines 
and  forests.  He  passed  through  Terekli,  now  a 
small  place,  but  which  the  name  and  situation 
point  out  as  the  ancient  Heraclea.  Passing 
through  Tereboli,  Modoorly,  and  Boli,  he  came 
to  Costamboul,  called  also  Kostamonni,  the  an- 
cient capital  of  Paphlagonia,  and  afterwards  the 


176  ASIATIC  TUItKEY. 

patrimonial  estate  of  the  family  of  the  Comneni. 
It  contains  about  14,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situ- 
ated in  a  rugged  and  dreary  country,  surrounded 
by  immense  mountains.  Its  aspect  improved, 
however,  when  they  came  to  the  banks  of  the 
great  river  Kisil  Ermak.  In  general  the  scenery 
of  this  part  of  Asia  Minor  is  of  a  grand  and  pic- 
turesque character,  the  valleys  being  clothed 
with  luxuriant  verdure,  and  the  mountains  with 
trees  of  every  description  ;  so  that  it  often  re- 
sembled the  ornamented  park  of  an  English  no- 
bleman. Grain,  however,  was  ill  cultivated  and 
scarce.  They  reached  Samsoon,  the  ancient 
Amisus,  capital  of  Mithridates,  a  neat  little  town, 
composed  of  white-washed  wooden  houses.  It 
presents  few  antiquities,  however,  though  the  an- 
cient wall  may  still  be  traced,  partly  covered  by 
the  waves.  They  then  passed  through  Unieh, 
a  small  seaport,  most  beautifully  situated,  and 
tolerably  thriving,  and  also  Keresoun,  surround- 
ed by  wooded  mountains  of  stupendous  height. 
From  Keresoun,  they  went  partly  by  water  to 
Trebisond.  This  is  a  very  ancient  city,  men- 
tioned by  Xenophon  in  the  retreat  of  the  ten 
thousand.  The  Romans  made  it  the  capital  of  a 
province,  and  under  the  lower  empire  it  became 
for  some  time  the  seat  of  an  independent  Greek 
monarchy.  It  now  contains  about  1.5,000  inha- 
bitants, is  situated  in  a  well  cultivated  country, 


KINNEIR.  177 

and  carries  on  manufactures  of  silk  and  cotton. 
There  are  several  Horn  an  antiquities,  particularly 
one  very  beautiful  church. 

Mr  Kinneir,  indefatigable  to  explore  Asia 
Minor,  crossed  it  at  another  time  in  a  north-west 
direction  from  Kelendri  to  Constantinople.  Ke- 
lendri  was  a  poor  town,  and  the  road  thence  to 
Caraman  might  be  considered  as  an  immense 
forest  of  oak,  beech,  fir,  and  juniper,  covered 
with  straggling  Turkmans  and  numerous  flocks 
of  goats.  Caraman,  once  the  capital  of  a  race  of 
Turkish  princes,  covered  still  an  extensive  area 
of  ground,  and  contained  3000  families,  occupied 
in  the  cotton  manufacture,  but  was  a  mean  look- 
ing place.  He  now  entered  the  plain  of  Iconium, 
where  not  a  tree,  nor  even  a  shrub,  is  perceptible 
over  an  expanse  of  ground  as  level  as  the  sea.  In 
two  days  he  reached  Iconium,  now  Konieh,  con- 
siderably declined  from  what  it  was  when  the 
metropolis  of  the  Sultans  of  Roum,  but  still  con- 
taining 30,000  inhabitants,  and  presenting  a  num- 
ber of  antique  materials  formed  into  modern  edi- 
fices. After  Konieh  the  country  improved  ;  and 
having  passed  through  Ladik  and  Akshehr,  he 
came  to  Osium-kara-hissar,  a  city  containing 
12,000  families,  and  distinguished  for  its  manu- 
facture of  black  felt,  and  extensive  culture  of 
opium.  Two  days  then  brought  him  to  Kutaiah, 
the  capital  of  Anatolia,  and  containing  a  popula- 

VOL.  III.  M 


178  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

tion  of  50  or  60,000  souls.  The  town  is  built 
on  the  side  of  a  hill,  the  houses  are  handsome, 
and  the  castle,  occupying  the  position  of  Coty- 
ocum,  appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  great 
strength.  To  reach  Boursa,  it  was  necessary  to 
cross  Mount  Olympus,  covered  deep  with  snow, 
and  over  which,  by  the  aid  of  some  guides  and 
companions,  he  with  great  difficulty  made  his 
way.  On  the  other  side  was  Boursa,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  cities  in  the  Turkish  empire,  situ- 
ated in  a  fertile  and  finely  wooded  plain,  enclosed 
within  the  immense  ridges  of  Olympus.  It  con- 
tains 40,000  inhabitants,  365  mosques,  and  its 
baths  and  mineral  springs  are  celebrated  all  over 
the  empire.  He  then  proceeded  to  embark  at 
Modania  for  Constantinople. 

In  another  excursion  through  the  heart  of  Asia 
Minor,  our  author  passed  Sivas,  the  ancient  Se- 
baste,  a  dirty  ill  built  city,  inhabited  by  a  coarse 
and  rude  people,  and  distinguished  by  the  breed- 
ing of  horses.  He  proceeded  to  Tocat,  the  larg- 
est and  most  commercial  city  in  the  interior  of 
Asia  Minor,  containing  60,000  souls,  and  situ- 
ated in  a  fine  valley,  watered  by  the  Jekil  Irmak. 
About  fifty  miles  to  the  south-west  stands  Ama- 
sia,  the  birth-place  of  Strabo,  and  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal cities  of  Pontus.  It  is  romantically  situated 
in  a  narrow  valley  between  high  and  rocky  raoun- 


SEETZEN.  179 

tains.     It  contains  a  population  of  35,000  souls, 
and  produces  a  great  quantity  of  excellent  silk. 

Fbw  travellers  in  the  East  have  acted  a  more 
meritorious  part  than  Dr  Seetzen,  who,  during  a 
long  residence,  embraced  with  ardour  every  op- 
portunity to  extend  our  knowledge  of  Syria, 
Arabia,  and  Africa.  In  I8O6  he  determined  to 
explore  the  regions  of  Syria  situated  to  the  east 
of  Hermon,  the  Jordan,  and  the  Dead  Sea,  where 
the  records,  both  of  sacred  and  profane  history, 
describe  the  existence  of  magnificent  cities  that 
are  now  unknown.  The  enterprise  was  attended 
with  hazard,  as  it  carried  him  beyond  even  the 
rude  protection  afforded  by  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment. Undeterred  by  this  consideration,  he  set 
out  from  Damascus,  furnished  with  an  order  from 
the  Pacha  upon  the  inferior  chiefs  to  supply  him 
with  a  horse  and  guide,  and  to  defray  his  expen- 
ses. He  then  entered  the  mountainous  district 
of  Ladscha,  the  villages  of  which,  built  upon  the 
crumbling  sides  of  rocks  of  black  basalt,  had  a 
gloomy  and  dismal  appearance.  He  traced  the 
Baniass,  a  beautiful,  but  not  the  principal,  source 
of  the  Jordan.  C^esarea  Philippi  was  found  in 
ruins.  Here  his  guide  slopped ;  but  being  in- 
vited by  an  Arab  to  cure  an  ophthalmy  under 
which  he  laboured,  Dr  Seetzen  negociated,  in 
return,  the  means  of  pursuing  his  route.     Pass- 


180  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

ing  the  ridge  of  savage  mountains  which  forms 
the  eastern  boundary  of  Palestine,  and  separates 
it  from  Dschaulan,  he  came  in  view  of  the  lake 
of  Tiberias.  The  town  of  Tiberiade  or  Tabaria 
was  now  small,  though  the  remains  of  the  ancient 
city  extended  for  a  mile  westward  to  some  warm 
baths  erected  by  Dsjezzar.  The  fine  plain  sur- 
rounding this  lake  was  almost  entirely  neglected, 
and  though  it  abounded  in  fish,  only  one  paltry 
fishing  bark  was  found  at  Tabaria.  The  whole 
fishery  on  the  lake  is  farmed  to  one  man,  who 
uses  only  the  seine. 

Dr  Seetzen  now  reached  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  this  sea  ;  and,  crossing  the  Jordan,  made 
his  way  into  the  district  of  El  Botthin.  Here  he 
found  the  rocks  hollowed  into  thousands  of  ca- 
verns, which  had  served  as  abodes  to  the  ancient 
inhabitants.  Even  the  present  houses  are  chiefly 
grottos  enclosed  with  walls ;  so  that  the  interior 
is  partly  rock  and  partly  masonry.  There  were 
still  also  a  considerable  number  of  large  caves, 
which  received  whole  families  with  all  their  cat- 
tle. Dr  Seetzen  was  driven  by  a  storm  of  rain 
to  seek  shelter  in  one  of  them  for  the  night.  He 
entered  by  a  long  passage,  and  found  part  of  the 
family  at  one  end  busied  in  preparing  supper. 
There  was  then  a  good  deal  of  vacant  space ; 
but  when  the  rest  came  in,  with  all  their  flocks 
and  herds,  little  elbow  room  was  left.     Dr  Sect- 


SEETZEN.  181 

zen  describes  himself  as  a  good  deal  tjiquiete  at 
making  his  first  nddress  to  these  wild  inhabitants 
of  the  rocks  ;  but  he  met  with  much  hospitality, 
and  found  them  quite  as  courteous  and  intelli- 
gent as  those  who  dwelt  in  more  civilized  man- 
sions. Dr  Seetzen  next  proceeded  to  Mkes,  the 
ancient  Gadara.  He  found  considerable  remains 
of  marble  pillars,  edifices,  has  reliefs,  sarcophagi, 
&c.  Near  it  were  several  very  extensive  caverns, 
in  which  five  or  six  families  were  lodged.  He 
then  made  his  way  to  Abila,  once  a  city  of  great 
fame,  now  entirely  ruined.  There  was  not  a 
single  edifice  standing  j  huge  fragments  and  rub- 
bish alone  attested  its  ancient  importance.  His 
next  visit  was  to  Dscherrasch,  the  ancient  Ge- 
rasa  ;  the  ruins  of  which  are  compared  to  those 
of  Balbec  and  Palmyra.  He  found  several  pa- 
laces, two  superb  amphitheatres  built  of  marble, 
and  three  temples,  one  of  which  had  a  peristyle 
of  twelve  large  Corinthian  columns,  eleven  of 
which  were  still  erect.  But  the  finest  thing  he 
saw  was  a  long  street,  bordered  on  each  side  with 
a  row  of  Corinthian  columns  of  marble,  and  ter- 
minating in  a  semicircular  open  space,  surround- 
ed with  sixty  Ionic  columns.  On  the  whole,  he 
counted  nearly  two  hundred  pillars  supporting 
their  entablatures,  and  a  much  greater  number 
overthrown  ;  yet  he  saw  only  half  the  city,  not 
being  able  to  examine  the  ruins  on  the  other  side 


182  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

of  the  river.  He  now  passed  the  Serka  into  the 
district  of  El  Belka,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Amo- 
rites ;  but  this  country,  once  so  populous  and 
flourishing,  was  now  converted  into  a  vast  desert. 
It  contained  only  one  small  town  called  Szalt, 
situated  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill.  Six  leagues 
to  the  east  he  found  the  ruins  of  Amman,  the 
ancient  Philadelphia,  one  of  the  principal  cities 
of  Decapolis.  It  contained  remains,  on  a  great 
scale,  of  all  the  buildings  that  usually  adorned  an 
ancient  city  ;  particularly  a  very  spacious  temple, 
with  pillars  forming  a  rotunda,  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain  on  which  it  was  built. 

After  traversing  this  district,  Dr  Seetzen  en- 
tered that  of  Karrak,  the  ancient  country  of  the 
Moabites.  He  saw  the  ruins  of  its  capital  Rab- 
bath  Moab,  the  extent  of  which  announced  its 
importance.  He  remarked  only  some  walls  and 
two  marble  pillars  of  the  Corinthian  order  be- 
longing to  an  ancient  temple.  The  district  of 
Karrak  is  full  of  mountains,  and  the  town  itself 
is  seated  on  a  very  high  one,  commanded  by 
others  still  higher,  and  commanding  a  very  fine 
view  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  Jerusalem.  Dr  Seet- 
zen turned  the  southern  side  of  the  Dead  Sea,  by 
a  track  so  rugged  and  difficult,  that  he  could 
scarcely  find  a  guide  to  accompany  him.  He 
saw  here  a  mountain  three  leagues  in  length, 
composed  entirely  of  sal  gem,  the  continual  dis- 


BURCKHARDT.  183 

solution  of  which  appeared  to  him  the  source  of 
the  saline  character  of  this  great  lake.  Its  west- 
ern coast  is  all  bristling  with  lofty  and  barren 
rocks.  The  water  is  clear  and  limpid,  and  as  salt 
as  the  sea  j  but  the  assertions,  that  iron  swims 
upon  it,  that  light  substances  sink  to  the  bottom, 
and  that  birds  flying  over  it  fall  down  dead,  are 
rejected  as  fabulous.  The  inhabitants  were  not 
sensible  of  any  thing  particularly  noxious  in  its 
vapours.  After  making  thus  the  tour  of  the  lake, 
Dr  Seetzen  proceeded  to  Bethlehem  and  Jerusa- 
lem, and  from  thence  to  Jaffa. 

The  late  able  and  lamented  Burckhardt,  in 
preparing  himself  to  explore  the  interior  of  Africa, 
performed  several  journeys,  the  full  narrative  of 
which  has  not  yet  been  published.  In  the  me- 
moir of  his  life,  however,  is  inserted  a  letter  con- 
taining the  sketch  of  a  tour,  which  in  some  de- 
gree followed  the  footsteps  of  Seetzen.  He 
spent  some  time  at  Damascus,  and  confirms  the 
observation  of  Dr  Clarke,  that  this  city,  with  its 
Pachalic,  were  in  a  much  more  flourishing  condi- 
tion than  either  that  of  Aleppo  on  one  side,  or  of 
Acre  on  the  other.  This  was  due  to  the  pater- 
nal government  of  Yusuf  Pacha,  who  had  ruled 
it  for  four  years.  That  chief  was,  however,  so  far 
avaricious,  that  he  uniformly  preferred  to  retain 
the  revenue  in  his  own  treasury,  rather  than  re-. 


lS4f  ASTATIC  TURKEY. 

mit  it  to  Constantinople.  The  Porte,  finding 
him  inveterate  in  his  attachment  to  this  system, 
conferred  the  Pachalic  on  Soleiman,  from  whom 
they  expected  greater  regard  to  their  authority. 
Yusuf's  economy  having  prevented  him  from 
taking  any  effectual  measures  to  secure  adhe- 
rents, he  was  driven  out  almost  without  a  strug- 
gle. The  new  Pacha,  who  holds  also  Acre, 
though  bred  under  Dsjezzar,  is  said  to  be  by  no 
means  a  bad  man.  The  Syrian  desert  is  now 
completely  in  the  power  of  the  AYahabis,  who 
carry  their  excursions  even  to  the  gates  of  Da- 
mascus. Yusuf  had  set  out  one  year  with  the 
caravan  in  the  accustomed  military  array ;  but 
on  approaching  Mecca,  found  himself  surround- 
ed by  a  much  greater  Wahabi  force.  Their 
chief,  Ibn  Saoud,  gave  notice  that  he  and  his  at- 
tendants might  repair  to  Mecca  unarmed  and  as 
common  pilgrims,  but  not  in  any  other  manner, 
Yusuf,  not  chusing  either  to  comply  with  this 
offer  or  to  encounter  the  Wahabi,  returned  with- 
out accomplishing  his  pilgrimage,  which  has  never 
since  been  attempted. 

Burckhardt,  having  left  Damascus,  proceeded 
by  Saflad  to  the  lake  of  Tiberias,  then  ascended 
the  Tabor,  and  having  visited  Nazareth,  crossed 
the  Jordan  to  Szalt.  He  visited  the  ruins  of 
Amman  (Philadelphia)  ;  but  does  not  conceive 
them  equal  to  those  of  Dscherrasch.     He  pro- 


I 


BURCKHARDT.  185 

ceeded  in  two  days  and  a  half  to  Karrak,  which 
he  calls  Kerek,  and  describes  as  the  seat  of  a 
chief  who  acts  a  leading  part  in  the  deserts  of 
the  south  of  Syria.  He  traced  the  valley  of 
Ghor,  fertile  though  uncultivated,  extending 
from  the  lake  of  Tiberias  to  the  southern  side 
of  the  Dead  Sea.  Thence,  under  the  name  of 
Araba,  it  stretches  to  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
Arabian  Gulf,  and  is  probably  the  track  by  which 
Solomon  carried  on  his  communication  with 
Eziongeber.  At  some  distance  eastward,  in  a 
valley  called  Wady  Mousa,  he  found  extensive 
ruins,  which  appear  to  be  those  of  Petra,  the 
great  commercial  capital  of  Idumea.  There 
were  two  hundred  and  fifty  tombs,  and  one  en- 
tire amphitheatre,  cut  in  the  rock  ; — one  mauso- 
leum, which  had  the  appearance  of  an  elegant 
Grecian  temple,  while  other  monuments  bore  an 
Egyptian  character.  A  place  was  shewn  here  as 
the  tomb  of  Aaron.  Burckhardt  passed  through 
the  valley  of  Akaba  to  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea, 
and  then  entered  upon  the  desert  of  El  Ty, 
which  he  describes  as  the  most  horrid  and  barren 
tract  he  had  ever  seen.  In  ten  days,  during 
which  time  only  four  wells  were  found,  he  arriv- 
ed at  Cairo. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ARABIA. 

Niebuhr. —  Valentia. — Seetzen. — Badhia. 

Arabia  is  not  a  country  much  resorted  to  by 
European  travellers.  Its  interior,  composed  in  a 
great  measure  of  deserts,  presents  nothing  suffix 
ciently  attractive  to  balance  the  dangers  with 
which  it  is  beset ;  while  the  approach  to  its  holy 
cities  is  rigidly  barred  against  every  Christian. 
The  travels  of  Barthema,  recounted  in  the  second 
Book,  will  give  the  idea  of  its  interior  at  an  early 
period  ;  while  the  adventures  of  Sir  Henry  Mid- 
dleton  illustrate  the  condition  of  its  coasts  under 
the  Turkish  sway.  We  shall  now,  therefore,  pro- 
ceed to  Niebuhr,  to  whom  we  are  mainly  indebt- 
ed for  what  we  know  of  this  part  of  the  Arabic 
continent. 

Niebuhr,  with  several  companions,  was  offi- 
cially employed  upon  a  scientific  mission  by  the 
Danish  government  to  explore  Arabia.  He  set 
out  with  a  caravan  from  Cairo  on  the  Tjjih  Au- 


NIEBUHE.  187 

gust  1762.  On  the  30th  they  arrived  at  Suez,  a 
city  built  since  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century, 
in  the  room  of  Kolzium,  formerly  the  emporium 
of  the  Red  Sea,  which  by  the  Arabic  writers  was 
called  *'  the  Sea  of  Kolzium,"  and  the  ruins  of 
which  are  still  seen  at  a  little  distance.  Suez  is 
a  thinly  inhabited,  poorly  built  place  ;  the  chief 
employment  of  whose  inhabitants  is  the  convey- 
ance of  corn  and  pilgrims  to  Jidda,  the  port  of 
Mecca.  The  soil  is  a  bed  of  rock,  sprinkled 
with  sand  ;  and  bad  water  can  be  procured  only 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  leagues. 

Niebuhr  set  out  from  Suez  in  search  of  the 
Jibbel  Mokatteb,  or  Hill  of  Inscriptions,  report- 
ed to  exist  in  some  part  of  the  bordering  deserts. 
The  Arabs  at  first  professed  total  ignorance  on 
the  subject ;  but  on  the  offer  of  a  liberal  reward, 
a  person  was  found  who  offered  to  conduct  him 
to  the  hill.  He  departed  first  for  Sinai,  through 
a  country  in  general  stony,  but  in  some  places 
well  watered  and  fertile.  On  the  declivity  of 
Mount  Sinai  they  found  still  the  convent  of  St 
Catherine,  which  the  vicinity  of  the  Arabs  con- 
verts into  a  species  of  prison.  Both  men  and 
provisions  are  let  up  and  down  in  a  basket  j  and 
an  excellent  garden  belonging  to  the  convent  is 
entered  by  a  subterraneous  passage.  The  Arabs 
often  shoot  at  the  monks  from  the  rocks  above  ; 
and  if  they  can  seize  any  of  the  straggling  bre- 


188  ARABIA. 

thren,  release  him  only  upon  payment  of  a  liberal 
ransom.  Niebuhr  had  seen  some  inscriptions  on 
the  rocks  in  this  journey,  but  merely  names  and 
some  rude  figures,  without  any  value  or  beauty. 
At  length  he  was  led  to  Jibbel  Mokatteb  ;  on 
ascending  which  he  found  a  number  of  sepulchral 
stones  covered  with  hieroglyphics  and  busts, 
which  were  evidently  Egyptian.  He  was  pro- 
ceeding to  copy  the  inscriptions,  when  the  Arabs 
interposed,  intimating  their  conviction  that  these, 
in  the  hands  of  Europeans,  possessed  supernatural 
powers,  and  were  intended  to  draw  hidden  trea- 
sures from  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  They  insist- 
ed that  they  should  either  receive  immediately  a 
hundred  crowns  down,  or  be  entitled  to  a  share 
of  all  the  wealth  which  the  inscriptions  should 
evoke.  Why  our  author  should  have  rejected 
this  latter  alternative,  does  not  very  precisely  ap- 
pear ;  but  he  chose  rather  to  bribe  an  individual 
Arab,  and  privily  copy  some  of  the  hieroglyphics, 
which  were  found  to  diifer  little  from  those  of 
Egypt,  except  in  exhibiting  the  goat,  an  animal 
unknown  in  that  country. 

Preparing  to  sail  down  the  Red  Sea,  Mr  Nie- 
buhr returned  to  Suez,  which,  in  consequence  of 
the  arrival  of  some  great  caravans,  appeared  as 
populous  as  Cairo.  The  ships  sailed  usually  in 
small  fleets,  to  aid  each  other  in  danger,  which 
was  imminent,  as  they  sailed  close  to  the  shore 


NIEDUHR.  189 

amid  reefs  and  coral  rocks,  and  guided  the  vessel 
in  the  most  unskilful  manner.  A  number  of  fe- 
males on  board  too  repeatedly  set  fire  to  the  linen 
which  they  were  drying,  till  the  captain  caused 
them  to  be  heartily  beaten.  They  passed  by  the 
ancient  Tor,  but  found  its  port  in  ruins,  though 
there  were  in  its  neighbourhood  some  considera- 
ble villages.  They  did  not  thence  see  any  inha- 
bited place  till  they  arrived  at  Jambo,  the  port  of 
Medina,  where  they  landed  the  passengers  des- 
tined for  that  sacred  place,  and  sailed  into  Jidda. 
They  were  in  much  apprehension  of  ill  treatment 
here,  both  from  general  report,  and  their  experi- 
ence at  Jambo ;  but  they  were  agreeably  disap- 
pointed to  find  that  they  attracted  little  notice, 
and  were  in  no  degree  molested.  On  learning 
that  they  understood  astronomy,  synonymous 
in  the  East  with  astrology,  the  governor  craved 
earnestly  to  know  from  them  the  success  of  a 
war  in  which  he  was  about  to  engage.  Niebuhr 
candidly  professed  his  ignorance  of  the  future ; 
but  his  companion,  Von  Haven,  gratified  the  go- 
vernor by  a  favourable  prediction.  Jidda  sup- 
ports itself  by  transporting  pilgrims  and  provi- 
sions to  Mecca,  and  by  being  the  channel  of  trade 
between  India  and  Suez.  The  most  violent  mea- 
sures are  taken  against  all  vessels  which  dare  to 
proceed  to  the  latter  port  without  touching  at 
Jidda.      Wishing  to  proceed  to  Hodeida,  they 


190  ARABIA. 

were  recommended  to  a  Maskat  ship,  which, 
however,  when  surveyed,  appeared  more  like  a 
hogshead  than  a  ship  ;  the  planks  thin,  without 
pitch,  and  navigated  by  a  few  naked  black  slaves. 
Their  friends,  however,  advised  them  not  to 
stickle  at  appearances,  as  the  Maskat  Arabs  were 
good  sailors.  Accordingly,  though  their  accom- 
modation was  somewhat  defective,  they  proceed- 
ed slowly  but  safely  along  a  coast  as  desert  as  that 
between  Suez  and  Jidda.  On  arriving  at  Loheia, 
Kiebuhr  was  surprised  to  find  the  Arabs  becom- 
ing always  more  polished  and  courteous.  The 
people  were  here  particularly  curious  and  intel- 
ligent. Being  acquainted  only  with  the  Euro- 
peans as  merchants,  the  arrival  of  a  physician, 
botanist,  and  star-gazer,  was  an  agreeable  novelty. 
The  governor  invited  them  to  make  some  stay, 
and  assured  them  that  they  might  travel  in  per- 
fect safety  through  every  part  of  the  dominions 
of  the  Imam.  A  country  chief,  however,  being 
asked  to  dine  with  them,  replied,  "  God  forbid 
"  that  I  should  eat  with  infidels  that  believe  not 
"  in  God." 

The  travellers  set  out  along  the  Tehama,  or  sea 
coast  of  Yemen,  where  they  found  journeying  as 
safe  as  in  England  ;  and  were  only  annoyed  by 
the  moving  sand,  which  covered  some  parts  of 
the  tract.  They  found  Beit-el-Fakih,  a  recent 
city,  which  had  risen  to  importance  through  the 


NIEBUHR.  191 

filling  up  of  the  harbour  of  Ghalefka.  This  last 
circumstance  had  ruined  Zebid,  once  the  most 
commercial  city  iu  the  Tehama.  It  was  now 
cruelly  oppressed  by  the  large  religious  establish- 
ments formed  during  its  prosperity,  and  which 
absorbed  three-fifths  of  its  reduced  income.  Ho- 
deida  was  at  present  the  port  of  Beit-el-Fakih, 
and  had  a  tolerable  harbour.  Niebuhr  now  set 
out  on  an  excursion  to  Kahhme  and  Hadie, 
among  the  coffee  mountains.  The  rocks  here 
were  entirely  basaltic,  and  usually  formed  into 
columns,  which  served  as  props  to  the  coffee 
trees,  and  had  often  the  appearance  of  artificial 
supports  to  the  cascades  which  dashed  from  their 
summits.  The  coffee  plantations  diffused  the 
most  delicious  perfume  ;  and  some,  which  were 
artificially  watered,  yielded  two  crops  in  the  year. 
In  the  course  of  a  subsequent  excursion  through 
another  part  of  the  mountainous  district,  he  passed 
through  the  small  towns  of  Udden  and  Dsjoble, 
but  found  the  country  on  the  whole  thinly  inha- 
bited. Mr  Forskal,  the  botanist,  passed  with  the 
natives  as  searching  for  plants  to  be  employed  in 
making  gold ;  while  Niebuhr's  observations  on 
the  heavens  procured  him  the  fame  of  a  magi- 
cian. 

After  these  excursions,  our  party  set  out  for 

Mokha.  They  were  first  mortified  by  being 
obliged  to  dismount  from  their  asses,  and  walk 


19^  ARABIA. 

into  this  city.  They  then  addressed  themselves 
to  a  merchant  called  Salek  Ismael,  who  proved 
to  make  it  his  business  to  prey  upon  strangers ; 
and  who,  not  succeeding  with  them  to  his  wish, 
did  them  all  the  injury  in  his  power.  On  going  to 
the  custom-house,  they  found  all  their  goods  open- 
ed out,  and  very  roughly  handled.  The  strongest 
suspicion  was  excited  by  the  preserved  fishes  and 
serpents,  any  lawful  object  for  collecting  which 
appeared  beyond  all  comprehension.  The  spirits 
in  which  they  were  kept  formed  an  article  equally 
profane  and  odious  ;  while  the  smell  issuing  from 
them,  and  spreading  through  the  house,  gave  the 
most  unfavourable  impressions.  At  length  it 
was  suggested,  that,  being  doctors,  their  object 
must  have  been  to  poison  the  Dola ;  which  ap- 
pearing highly  probable,  that  officer  flew  into  the 
most  violent  rage,  caused  them  to  be  turned  out 
of  the  house,  and  the  door  to  be  shut  upon  them. 
At  the  same  time  they  learned,  that  all  their 
books  and  effects  had  been  thrown  from  the  win- 
dows of  their  lodgings  into  the  street.  They 
wandered  about  for  a  long  time,  finding  every 
door  shut  upon  them  ;  but  at  length,  through  the 
favour  of  tlie  Cadi  and  of  an  English  merchant, 
got  themselves  accommodation.  Being  advised 
then  to  wait  upon  the  Dola  with  a  present  of 
fifty  ducats,  they  very  unwilHngly  made  up  their 
minds  to  take  the  advice.     They  found  then  all 


NIEBUHR.  19s 

his  wrath  evaporated,  were  kindly  received,  and 
had  all  their  effects  restored.     They  were  even 
raised  to  favour  by  a  wound  in  the  foot  which  he 
happened  to  receive,  and  for  which  he  solicited 
their  surgical  aid.     This,  however,  led  to  an  in- 
convenient result,  as  the  cure  proved  tedious,  and, 
till  it  was  completed,  the  Dola  evaded  all  their 
solicitations  to  visit  Sana.    It  afforded  much  grati- 
fication, therefore,   when  a  quack  came  forward, 
and   undertook,  upon  receiving  the  sole  charge, 
to  perfect  the  cure  in  eight  days.      They  then 
came  to  Taas,  a  large  city,  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains, said  to  be  the  most  productive  in  the  world 
of  plants,  of  which  Mr  Forskal  had  only  a  tanta- 
lizing view,  as  the  governor  of  Taas  was  in  a  hos- 
tile position  as  to  the  ruling  Schiechs,  and  would 
permit  no  one  to  visit  their  territories.   They  came 
next  to  Jerim,  a  small  town,  where  they  had  the 
misfortune  of  losing  Mr  Forskal.     Passing  then 
through  Damar,  Manahhel,  and  Suradje,  they  ar- 
rived at  Sana.  At  a  villa  of  the  Vizier's  without  the 
gates  they  were  desired  to  alight,  and  fully  expect- 
ed to  be  introduced  to  him,  but  found  it  was  only 
with  a  view  to  the  humiliating  arrangement  of 
their  walking  into  the  town,  while  their  Mussul- 
man servants  rode.     The  Imam,  however,  sent  a 
present  of  five  sheep,  and  soon  admitted  them  to 
a  public  audience.     He  was  found  in  a  hall,  the 

VOL.  III.  N 


104<  ARABIA. 

approach  to  which  was  so  crowded  with  courtiers, 
officers,  and  horses,  that  they  could  with  difficul- 
ty make  their  way.  He  was  seated  cross-legged 
on  cushions  ;  and  allowed  them,  by  peculiar  fa- 
vour, to  kiss  both  the  back  and  palm  of  his  hand, 
when  all  present  cried  aloud,  *'  God  preserve  the 
**  Imam.**  The  conversation,  as  it  could  be  car- 
ried on  only  by  interpreters,  was  not  very  inte- 
resting J  and  they  took  their  departure  with  the 
same  ceremonies.  On  returning  home  they 
received  a  present  of  ninety-nine  small  coins, 
the  entire  value  of  which  was  7s.  6d.  neither  a 
very  valuable  nor  genteel  donation  ;  however, 
they  were  willing  to  suppose  that  it  was  only  to 
obviate  the  inconvenience  of  wanting  change. 

Sana  is  not  a  very  large  city,  as  it  can  be  walk- 
ed round  in  the  space  of  an  hour  j  and  within  this 
circuit  there  are  many  gardens.  The  ordinary 
houses  are  built  of  unburnt  bricks  ;  but  there  are 
several  mosques,  and  many  noble  palaces,  the 
materials  of  which  are  burnt  bricks,  and  some- 
times hewn  stones.  The  neighbourhood  abounds 
with  gardens,  and  has  been  compared  to  Da- 
mascus, but  is  not  nearly  so  well  watered. 

From  Sana  Niebuhr  returned  to  Mocha,  whence 
he  sailed  for  India.  The  rest  of  his  work  is 
spent  in  an  elaborate  description  of  that  exten- 
sive part  of  Asia  which  he  was  sent  to  survey. 


NIEBUHR.  195 

The  general  and  almost  proverbial  character 
of  Arabia  is  sterility.  Although  this  feature  may 
have  been  somewhat  exaggerated,  yet  stony 
mountains  and  sandy  plains  form  the  prominent 
features  in  the  surface  of  this  vast  peninsula. 
To  the  north,  it  shoots  out  into  a  very  exten- 
sive desert,  the  character  of  which  is  entirely 
Arabian,  and  which  remains  interposed  between 
Syria  and  the  countries  on  the  Euphrates.  The 
whole  coast  of  Arabia,  from  Suez  to  the  head 
of  the  Persian  Gulf,  is  formed  of  a  plain  called 
the  Tehama,  which  presents  a  picture  of  the  most 
complete  desolation.  The  interior  is  diversified 
by  extensive  ranges  of  mountains,  the  declivities 
of  which  are  covered  with  trees  and  shrubs ;  while 
the  intervening  valleys,  being  watered  by  copious 
streams,  are  capable  of  advantageous  culture.  In 
agriculture,  though  the  implements  used  by  the 
Arabs  be  rude,  yet  a  greater  degree  of  industry 
is  displayed  than  by  most  of  their  neighbours. 
In  many  parts  of  Yemen  the  fields  are  cultivated 
like  gardens.  The  supply  of  water  is  insufficient 
for  rice,  so  that  barley,  millet,  and  dhourra,  are 
the  grains  chiefly  raised.  The  Arabian  hills  are 
distinguished  by  some  fragrant  plants ;  the  coffee, 
the  balm  of  Mecca,  and  the  tree  bearing  incense, 
though  this  last  is  produced  of  much  superior 
quality  in  the  opposite  coast  of  Africa.  The  cof- 
fee of  Yemen,  so  eagerly  sought  for  over  t' 


19G  ARABIA. 

whole  globe,  is  despised  in  its  native  spot.  An 
infusion  of  its  husks  is  the  only  form  in  which  it 
is  valued. 

The  pastoral  life  is  the  prevailing  one  in  Ara- 
bia ;  and  its  pride,  as  to  production,  consists  in 
its  animals.  The  horse,  the  camel,  and  the  ass, 
seem  to  be  here  in  their  native  place,  and  are  in 
greater  perfection  than  in  any  other  country. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  care  taken  in  training, 
and  particularly  in  breeding  their  horses.  Their 
pedigree  is  counted  as  carefully  as  that  of  their 
masters,  being  often  traced  as  far  back  as  2000 
years.  Nor  is  this  so  liable  as  might  be  supposed 
to  deception,  being  authenticated  by  written  do- 
cuments ;  and  though  the  Arabs  are  generally 
addicted  to  perjury,  yet  this  is  a  subject  of  such 
awful  importance,  that  upon  it  they  have  scarcely 
ever  been  known  to  prevaricate^  A  horse  of  high 
birth  will  sell  from  800  to  1000  crowns.  Swift- 
ness and  lightness  are  the  characteristics  of  the 
Arabian  steed,  while  the  Turks  prefer  those  of 
greater  strength  and  bulk.  The  camel  is  too 
well  known  to  require  description.  The  ass  of 
Arabia  is  a  very  superior  animal  to  that  despised 
race  which  we  are  accustomed  to  view.  It  is 
large,  handsome,  and  spirited.  Niebuhr  even 
considers  it  better  fitted  for  travelling  than  the 
horse. 


NIEBUHR.  197 

Arabia  supports  a  race  of  men  entirely  charac- 
teristic of  itself,  and  different  from  those  who  in- 
habit all  the  other  countries  of  Asia.  These 
peculiarities  are  best  seen  among  the  Bedouins, 
who  inhabit  the  heart  of  the  desert,  and  hold  little 
communication  with  any  other  people.  They 
live  in  the  most  simple  manner  in  tents  composed 
of  coarse  stuffs,  and  which  have  the  aspect  of  tat- 
tered huts,  with  an  apartment  in  front  for  the 
men,  and  one  behind  for  the  females.  Almost 
the  only  furniture  consists  of  the  carpet  or  mat 
upon  which  they  sit.  Their  food  is  composed  of 
dates,  millet,  and  dhourra,  with  the  milk  of  their 
camels ;  and  from  taste  or  necessity  they  are 
temperate  in  the  extreme.  The  Schiechs,  or 
chiefs  of  the  Arabians,  are  distinguished  by  a 
pride  of  birth  elsewhere  unknown  in  the  East, 
and  resembling  what  was  felt  in  Europe  during  the 
highest  pride  of  the  feudal  ages.  They  have  regu- 
lar tables  of  genealogy,  extending  backwards  for 
many  centuries,  and  tracing  their  origin  either 
to  Mahomet,  or  to  some  earlier  Arabian  chiefs. 
Their  nobility  is  the  more  valued,  as  it  rests  upon 
birth  alone,  and  cannot  be  conferred  by  the  fiat 
of  any  prince.  Niebuhr  compares  them  to  the 
heads  of  clans  in  the  Scotch  Highlands.  Bedou- 
in honour  is  still  more  delicate  than  that  of  an 
European  noble.  If  one  says  seriously  to  ano- 
ther, *•  Thy  bonnet  is  dirty,"  or  "  The  wrong  side 


198  ARABIA. 

"  of  thy  turban  is  out,"  nothing  but  blood  can 
wash  away  the  reproach.  The  right  of  private 
vengeance  is  fully  recognized ;  and  is  prosecuted 
not  only  against  the  offender,  but  against  all  his 
family.  There  is  indeed  a  price  fixed  for  blood ; 
but  to  accept  this  is  considered  much  less  honour- 
able than  to  demand  blood  for  blood ;  and  a  fa- 
mily feud  is  thus  often  transmitted  through  seve- 
ral generations. 

The  female  sex  in  Arabia  enjoy  greater  free- 
dom than  in  other  Mahometan  countries.  The 
precept  allowing  polygamy  remains  a  dead  letter 
both  with  the  lower  and  middling  classes,  and 
even  some  of  the  most  opulent  consider  one 
wife  as  quite  sufficient.  Neither  is  it  true  that 
the  father  sells  his  daughter,  and  the  husband  his 
wife  ;  or  that  the  sex  are  generally  slaves.  The 
jealous  guardianship  of  eunuchs  is  unknown  ;  and 
the  Arab  women  have  repeatedly  shewn  them- 
selves to  travellers,  unveiled,  without  any  displea- 
sure on  the  part  of  their  husbands. 

The  vast  expanse  of  Arabia  is  generally  divided 
among  a  number  of  independent  tribes,  or  clans, 
each  governed  in  an  aristocratic  manner  by  its 
own  Schiech.  Confederacies  are  often  formed 
among  these  for  mutual  defence  ;  but  there  seems 
to  be  no  instance  of  what  can  properly  be  called 
a  republican  form.  There  are  three  districts 
however  j  those  of  Mecca  and  its  dependencies, 


NIEBUHIi VALENTIA.  199 

of  Yemen,  and  of  Ommon,  where  a  denser  popu- 
lation gives  occasion  to  form  pretty  large  princi- 
palities. These  are  ruled  on  an  arbitrary,  though 
somewhat  unsettled  and  irregular  footing ;  the 
first  by  SherifFes,  and  the  two  last  by  Imams.  The 
late  rise  of  the  Wahabi  power,  of  which  more 
particular  notice  will  presently  be  taken,  has 
united  the  whole  interior  of  Arabia  under  one 
religious  and  military  head,  though  it  has  pro- 
bably left  unaltered  the  division  into  clans,  and 
the  internal  administration. 

In  the  course  of  Lord  Valentia's  visit  to  the 
Red  Sea  in  1804,  he  spent  some  time  at  Mocha. 
That  port  was  somewhat  declined,  though  it  still 
continued  to  be  the  great  mart  for  coffee.  That 
trade,  within  a  few  years,  had  taken  a  new 
direction,  in  consequence  of  the  interference  of 
American  traders.  Instead  of  being  carried  up 
the  Red  Sea,  and  distributed  by  the  way  of^  Alex- 
andria, it  was  now  taken  off  by  them  and  carried 
round  by  the  maritime  route  of  the  Cape.  Their 
competition  had  raised  the  price  from  thirty-six 
or  forty  to  fifty  dollars.  The  India  Company,  by 
this  means,  was  entirely  driven  out  of  the  market, 
as  they  could  not  import  a  bale  of  coffee  under 
L.IO,  while  the  Americans  brought  it  to  Europe 
at  L.y.  The  entire  quantity  exported  is  estimat- 
ed at  16,000  bales  of  305  lbs.  each.     Mocha  ex- 


200  AUAPIA. 

ports  also  some  gum-arabic,  myrrh,  and  frankin- 
cense, brought  from  the  opposite  coast  of  Ber- 
bera  ;  but  Aoben  absorbs  the  greater  part  of  this 
trade.  The  present  population  of  Mocha  is  not 
estimated  at  more  than  5000.  The  bordering 
plain  of  the  Tehama  is  as  barren  and  dreary  as 
it  is  possible  to  conceive.  The  researches  of  Mr 
Pringle  tended  to  confirm  the  belief  of  its  having 
formerly  been  the  bed  of  the  sea,  as,  on  dig- 
ging to  a  little  depth,  the  strata  were  found  en- 
tirely composed  of  marine  productions.  The 
power  of  the  Imam  was  then  visibly  on  the  de- 
cline, as  the  Sheriffe  of  Abon-arish,  who  was  at- 
tached to  the  new  sect  of  the  Wahabi,  had  ob- 
tained possession  of  Loheia,  and  was  endeavour- 
ing to  make  it  a  seat  of  the  coffee  trade. 

The  Wahabi  were  found  by  Lord  Valentia 
masters  of  almost  all  Arabia.  This  sect  origi- 
nated about  forty  years  before,  and  is  mentioned 
by  Niebuhr ;  but  since  that  time  has  been  con- 
tinually gaining  new  strength.  It  may  be  con- 
sidered as  a  reform  in  the  Mussulman  faith.  It 
recognizes  the  unity  of  the  Deity,  and  the  ge- 
nuineness of  the  Koran,  but  rejects  all  the  tradi- 
tions and  all  the  worship  paid  to  the  successors 
of  Mahommed.  Its  military  chief,  Ibn  Saoud, 
has  been  the  great  instrument  in  its  propagation. 
The  most  memorable  era  was  in  the  27th  April 
1803,  when  Saoud  entered  Mecca,  and  destroyed 


VAI.ENTIA SEETZEN.  201 

eighty  splendid  tombs,  erected  in  honour  of  the 
descendants  of  Mahommed.  In  1804-  they  took 
Medina ;  and  the  two  holy  cities  have  ever  since 
continued  in  possession  of  the  Wahabis.  They 
do  not,  however,  discourage  pilgrimage,  unless 
by  prohibiting  the  approach  of  any  armed  body, 
and  the  use  of  certain  rites  which  they  regard  as 
superstitious.  They  are  now  masters  of  all  the 
interior  of  Arabia,  and  of  part  of  the  sea  coast ; 
and  are  supposed  able  to  muster  an  army  of 
1^0,000  men.  Although  these  are  inferior  in 
discipline  even  to  the  Turkish  troops,  yet,  in  the 
present  distracted  state  of  that  empire,  they  can- 
not fail  to  be  very  formidable  enemies  to  it. 

Dr  Seetzen  having  assumed  the  real  or  feigned 
character  of  a  Mahometan,  conceived  himself  in 
a  condition  to  undertake  a  tour  into  the  interior 
of  Arabia.  He  took  a  passage  in  a  vessel  at  Suez, 
where  there  were  a  number  of  other  pilgrims 
destined  for  Mecca.  Before  reaching  Jidda, 
they  came  in  view  of  a  village  called  Rabog, 
when  the  ceremony  took  place  of  putting  on  the 
ehhram.  This  is  the  pilgrim's  dress,  consisting 
of  two  large  white  cloths,  wrapped  one  round  the 
middle,  and  the  other  over  the  shoulders ;  pre- 
vious to  which,  they  shave  the  head,  and  wash 
the  whole  bodv  with  sea-water.  Thus  transform- 
ed  into  pilgrims,  they  begin  to  cry  aloud  Lubbaik, 


202  ARABIA. 

allahoumme  Luhhaik,  an  ancient  form  of  prayer, 
which  Dr  Seetzen  suspects  of  being  appropriated 
to  Bacchus.  Arrived  at  Jidda,  he  placed  him- 
self under  the  protection  of  a  Moorish  merchant, 
and  found  the  road  to  Mecca  perfectly  safe. 
After  having  passed  the  plain  of  the  Tehama,  the 
rest  of  this  way  led  among  mountains  chiefly  com- 
posed of  granite.  On  arriving  at  Mecca,  he  hired 
a  mottaoiif  or  guide,  who  soon  conducted  him  to 
the  holy  temple.  He  found  it  composing  a  most 
majestic  square,  300  feet  by  f200,  and  surrounded 
with  a  triple  or  quadruple  row  of  columns.  The 
houses  of  the  town  rose  above  it,  and  the  sur- 
rounding mountains  high  above  them,  so  that  he 
felt  as  in  the  arena  of  a  magnificent  theatre.  He 
went  through  the  ceremonies  very  quietly  at  that 
time,  but  some  time  after  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  Kaaba  encircled  by  more  than  a  thou- 
sand pilgrims,  Arabs  from  every  province,  Moors, 
Persians,  Afghans,  and  natives  of  all  countries  of 
the  East.  In  their  enthusiastic  zeal  to  kiss  the 
black  stone,  they  rushed  pell-mell  in  confused 
crowds,  so  that  our  author  was  very  apprehen- 
sive that  some  of  them  must  have  been  suffocat- 
ed. This  religious  tumult,  with  the  multitude 
and  various  aspect  of  the  groupes,  presented  the 
most  extraordinary  spectacle  he  ever  beheld. 

From  Mecca  Dr  Seetzen  proceeded  to  Medina, 
which  he  found  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  governed 


SEETZEN.  203 

by  a  Wahabite  Emir.  The  country  round  was  en- 
tirely composed  of  a  porous  lava,  whence  he  infer- 
red that  it  must  have  been  formerly  exposed  to 
the  action  of  volcanic  fires.  He  does  not  des- 
cribe the  sacred  mosque  in  such  glowing  terms 
as  Barthema ;  though  he  says  it  is  a  considerable 
edifice,  with  many  pillars  of  marble,  jasper,  and 
porphyry,  adorned  in  different  places  with  letters 
of  gold.  The  Wahabis  do  not  admit  pilgrimage 
unless  to  Mecca ;  Dr  Seetzen  was  therefore  ar- 
raigned before  the  Emir,  who,  however,  on  learn- 
ing that  he  was  a  Frank,  dismissed  him  without 
farther  question. 

On  returning  to  Jidda,  Dr  Seetzen  sailed  down 
the  Red  Sea.  Avoiding  Comfodah,  which  was 
become  a  resort  of  Wahabi  pirates,  he  touched  at 
Massuah,  and  sailed  thence  to  Hodeida.  He 
found  all  the  ports  of  Yemen  subjected  by  the 
Sheriff  of  Abou-Arish,  except  Mocha,  whose  walls 
are  considered  impregnable  by  an  Arab  army. 
Travelling,  however,  was  still  as  secure  in  Yemen 
as  in  the  streets  of  London.  He  penetrated 
without  difficulty  to  Sana,  which  he  calls  Szana. 
He  thought  it  the  prettiest  city  in  the  East.  Its 
houses  are  high,  and  built  of  stone  ;  and  if  the 
streets  were  better  cleaned  and  kept,  it  might 
rank  with  some  of  the  best  cities  in  Europe.  An 
ancient  Arabic  author  calls  it  Asel,  whence  he 


SOi  ARABIA. 

suspects  it  to  be  the  city  mentioned  under  that 
name  in  the  sacred  Scriptures. 

Badhia,  a  Spanish  traveller,  has  published, 
under  the  fictitious  name  of  Ali  Bey,  the  narra- 
tive of  a  journey  to  Mecca,  the  general  correct- 
ness of  which  is  confirmed  by  Burckhardt.  He 
set  sail  from  Suez,  and  gives  a  most  formidable 
description  of  the  dangers  of  navigating  down  the 
Red  Sea.  There  are  continual  rocks  either  above 
or  under  water,  so  that  four  men  watch  constantly 
at  the  helm  to  give  the  alarm  ;  and  if  their  call 
be  either  omitted  or  mistaken,  the  ship  is  dashed 
to  pieces.  We  know  not  whether  our  author's 
fears  did  not  a  little  overrate  the  peril.  Being  over- 
taken one  night  by  a  storm,  when  the  Captain 
declaring  himself  unable  to  guide  the  vessel,  and 
burst  into  tears,  Badhia  hurried  with  a  few  of  the 
passengers  into  a  boat,  and  by  gigantic  exertions 
reached  the  land.  Being  thrown,  however,  on 
an  island  of  sand,  where  there  was  neither  food 
nor  habitation,  he  was  in  deep  perplexity,  till  the 
weather  clearing  up,  the  ship  was  seen  lying  out 
at  sea  in  perfect  safety ;  and  he  had  only  to  re- 
turn to  it  after  this  perilous  attempt  at  escape. 
The  port  of  Jidda  was  found  flourishing,  contain- 
ing 5000  inhabitants.  Under  the  disguise  of  a 
pilgrim,  he  made  his  way  to  Mecca,  at  a  period 
distinguished  by  the  arrival  of  a  part  of  the  Wa- 


BADHIA.  205 

babi  army  to  pay  their  devotions  at  the  holy 
shrine.  They  amounted  to  5  or  6000,  were  naked 
except  a  bit  of  cloth  round  the  middle,  bore 
matchlocks  on  their  shoulders,  and  large  knives 
in  their  girdle,  but  had  neither  flags  nor  drums. 
The  tumultuary  rushing  of  this  crowd  of  militant 
devotees  to  kiss  the  black  stone,  presented  a  spec- 
tacle of  still  wilder  confusion  than  that  witnessed 
by  Seetzen.  They  endeavoured  also  to  procure 
an  effusion  of  the  holy  water  of  Zemzen  ;  but  the 
rush  was  so  terrible,  that  in  a  few  minutes  the 
ropes,  pullies  and  buckets,  were  all  destroyed. 
The  next  observance  was  the  pilgrimage  to  Mount 
Arafat,  which  presented  a  singular  scene  at  the 
hour  of  sunset,  the  signal  for  the  whole  body  to 
return  towards  Mecca.  Yet  notwithstanding  the 
immense  and  confused  crowd,  no  disorder  was 
committed,  and  though  the  Wahabis  were  all 
armed,  only  one  shot  was  discharged  by  accident. 
Mecca  is  described  by  Badhia  to  have  suffered 
deeply  from  the  diminution  of  pilgrimage,  which 
has  ensued,  partly  from  the  general  decay  of  Mus- 
sulman zeal,  partly  from  the  dread  of  the  arms  of 
the  Wahabi.  The  greater  part  of  its  houses  are 
unoccupied,  and  instead  of  100,000  inhabitants,  it 
is  not  now  supposed  to  contain  above  16  or 
18,000.  Mecca  makes  a  handsomer  appearance 
than  most  eastern  cities.  Its  buildings  follow 
the  windings  of  the  narrow  valley  in  which  it  is 


206  ARABIA. 

situated ;  but  they  are  ranged  in  regular  order, 
and  the  streets  are  sanded,  level,  and  convenient. 
The  houses  are  very  neat,  built  rather  in  the  Per- 
sian and  Indian  than  Turkish  style,  with  stone, 
and  usually  three  or  four  stories  high  ;  they  are 
externally  adorned  with  paintings  and  mouldings, 
and  have  larger  and  more  open  windows  than  is 
usual  in  the  East.  The  inhabitants  are  careful 
to  preserve  this  handsome  outward  appearance, 
as  they  derive  their  subsistence  very  much  from 
letting  apartments  to  pilgrims.  The  women  are 
not  so  rigidly  confined  as  is  usual  in  Mahometan 
towns,  and  are  supposed  not  to  be  altogether  in- 
accessible to  amorous  devotees.  From  every  pil- 
grim who  is  supposed  at  all  opulent,  the  servants 
of  the  temple  contrive  to  extort  from  seventy  to 
eighty  pounds. 

Badhia  made  an  attempt  also  to  penetrate  to 
Medina,  but  was  stopped  by  one  of  the  Wahabi 
chiefs. 


BOOK  V. 

EASTERN  ASIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

COUNTRIES  BET^VIIEN  INDIA  AND  CHINA. 

Pegu. — Ccesar  Frederich^—Gasparo  Balbi. — Symes. — Siartii 
Missions Jrom  France.-^Cochin-  China. — -Borri. — Barroiv. 

The  region  on  the  east  of  India,  reaching  to 
China  and  the  Eastern  Ocean,  is  occupied  by  a 
number  of  extensive  kingdoms,  and  includes  a 
population  of  perhaps  from  fifty  to  sixty  millions. 
Though  thus  fertile  and  populous,  however,  these 
countries  do  not  yield  any  product  so  valuable 
and  peculiar,  or  any  manufacture  carried  on  to 
such  high  perfection,  as  to  become  a  leading  ob- 
ject of  European  commerce^  They  do  not  even 
present  any  very  prominent  or  striking  forms  of 
social  or  political  existence.  For  these  reasons 
they  have  not  attracted  the  notice  of  European 
travellers  in  a  degree  equal  to  the  place  which 


208  PEGU. 

they  occupy  on  the  globe.  Although,  however, 
the  basis  of  their  institutions  be  Hindoo  and 
Chinese,  and  though  they  nowhere  exhibit  any 
forms  of  civil  liberty,  their  population  yet  exhi- 
bits a  more  energetic,  active,  and  improving  cha- 
racter, than  that  of  the  great  empires  upon  which 
they  border  ;  and  their  social  state  therefore  pre- 
sents various  peculiarities  which  are  worthy  of 
observation. 

During  the  sixteenth  century  Pegu  appears 
to  have  been  the  most  powerful  and  formidable 
of  these  states,  and,  by  its  wealth  and  splendour, 
attracted  the  greatest  notice.  Soon  after  the  Por- 
tuguese had  established  themselves  at  Malacca, 
Antonio  Coiiuea,  a  distinguished  naval  officer, 
was  despatched  with  the  view  of  opening  a  friend- 
ly communication  with  the  court  of  Pegu.  He  na- 
vigated with  considerable  difficulty  in  consequence 
of  the  violence  of  the  tides  upon  this  coast,  but 
at  length  entered  the  river  of  Pegu,  and  reached 
the  capital.  He  found  a  country  composed  en- 
tirely of  rivers,  islands,  and  inundated  plains, 
which  were  possessed  thus  of  luxuriant  fertility. 
The  Portuguese  were  well  received,  and  obtained 
permission  to  establish  a  factory,  but  it  was  soon 
rendered  fruitless  by  political  disasters.  The 
king  of  the  Brammas  (Birmans)  made  war  upon 
Pegu,  conquered  the  whole  country,  and  carried 


PEGU^— CiESAR  FREDERICK.  209 

his  arms  to  the  gates  of  Siam.  Fernan  de  Mo- 
raes,  the  Portuguese  resident  at  Pegu,  was  killed 
in  the  sack  of  the  city. 

About  the  middle  of  the  century,  Pegu  again 
asserted  its  independence  and  greatness.  In  1568 
it  was  visited  by  Caesar  Frederick,  when  it  consist- 
ed of  two  cities,  the  old  and  the  new,  the  one  des- 
tined for  the  merchants,  the  other  for  the  court. 
The  houses  were  "  made  with  canes,  and  cover- 
ed with  leaves  or  with  straw  j"  but  to  avoid  the 
danger  of  fire  incident  to  *'  houses  made  of  such 
stuffe,**  a  large  brick  building  had  been  erected 
for  containing  the  merchandise.  In  the  new 
town  the  streets  were  the  fairest  he  had  seen, 
being  so  broad,  that  twelve  men  could  ride  a- 
breast,  and  so  straight,  that  you  could  see  from 
one  gate  to  another.  The  king's  palace  resem- 
bled a  walled  castle,  gilded  all  over,  and  rising 
into  lofty  pinnacles.  "  Truly  it  may  be  a  king's 
"  house/*  This  monarch  calls  himself  the  king 
of  the  white  elephants,  and  prizes  those  animals 
so  highly,  that  if  he  knew  one  to  be  in  the  posses- 
sion of  a  neighbouring  sovereign,  he  will  make 
war  in  order  to  obtain  it.  He  had  only  four, 
which  were  kept  in  the  greatest  state,  having 
their  meat  served  in  gold  and  silver  dishes,  and 
their  feet  washed  in  silver  basins.  There  was 
also  a  black  elephant,  illustrious  for  its  magni- 
tude,  being  nine  cubits  high.     He  relates  the 

VOL.  III.  o 


210  EASTERN  INDIA, 

mode  of  taking  these  animals,  which  seems  to  be 
the  same  now  practised  in  Ceylon.  It  is  added, 
**  there  is  not  a  beast  so  intellective  as  these  ele^ 
•*  phants ;  he  lacketh  nothing  but  human  speech.** 
The  king  has  four  thousand  war  elephants,  who, 
having  wooden  castles  on  their  backs,  prove  the 
most  formidable  part  of  his  army.  The  battle 
array  of  this  people  is,  he  says,  admirable,  but 
their  weapons  **  very  naught  and  weake,"  the 
swords  being  like  long  knives  without  points. 
The  infinite  number  of  his  troops  compensates  for 
any  deficiency  in  their  equipments.  "  There  is 
"  not  a  king  on  the  earth  that  hath  more  power 
**  and  strength  than  this  King  of  Pegu."  He 
has  twenty-six  crowned  kings  as  vassals,  and  can 
levy  an  army  of  a  million  and  a  half.  This  num- 
ber, even  including  all  the  camp  followers,  is 
doubtless  exaggerated  ;  but  he  assures  us,  that 
the  difficulty  of  finding  subsistence,  apparently 
so  formidable,  will  not  weigh  much  with  him 
**  that  knoweth  the  nature  of  this  country  and 
"  people."  They  will  eat  serpents,  scorpions, 
herbs,  grass,  and  every  kind  of  refuse,  "  all  serv- 
"  eth  for  their  mouthes  ;"  and  they  require  only 
a  few  mouthfuls  of  rice  "  to  serve  instead  of 
"  comfits." 

The  commodities  chiefly  suited  to  the  market 
of  Pegu,  were  piece  goods  from  the  coast  of  Co- 
romandel,    pepper   and  other  spices  from   the 


PEGU— C^SAR  FREDERICK.  211 

islands.  The  imported  goods  are  first  landed  at 
the  port  of  Casmin,  whence  they  proceed  up  to 
Pegu.  "  God  deliver  every  man  that  he  give 
"  not  a  wrong  entrie,  or  think  to  steal  custome," 
for  it  seems  three  successive  searches  are  made, 
and  the  utmost  rigour  exercised  against  those  who 
attempt  any  evasion.  Another  danger  attends 
them  when  '*  they  custome  in  the  great  hall  of  the 
"  king."  Then  a  number  of  gentlemen  are  in 
attendance,  with  their  slaves,  whom  they  regu- 
larly employ  in  pilfering  whatever  they  can  lay 
hold  of,  without  the  least  shame  at  being  detect- 
ed, "  whether  it  be  cloth,  in  shewing  of  it,  or 
"  any  other  thing,  they  laugh  at  it.'*  The  mer- 
chants must  therefore  act  in  concert,  and  watch 
each  other's  goods.  In  trafficking  for  jewels, 
however,  the  most  precious  and  delicate  commo- 
dity here  exposed  to  sale,  they  are  said  to  be 
luckily  secure  from  imposition,  even  though  they 
do  not  understand  the  article.  This  trade  is  in 
the  hands  of  three  or  four  great  brokers,  who 
*'  have  always  great  care  that  they  affoord  good 
"  peniworths,  especially  to  those  that  have  no 
"  knowledge.'*  By  way  of  accounting  for  this 
miraculous  integrity,  he  states,  that  every  pur- 
chaser of  jewels  is  allowed  two  or  three  days  "  to 
"  looke  on  and  peruse  them,"  when  if  not  satisfied, 
he  may  annul  the  bargain,  which  is  considered 
so  great  a  disgrace,  that  the  brokers  are  anxious 


212  EASTERN  INDIA. 

by  all  means  to  avoid  incurring  it.  He  notices 
also  the  silent  mode  of  bargaining  mentioned  by 
Tavernier,  effected  while  the  hands  are  covered 
with  a  cloth,  **  by  touching  of  fingers  and  nipping 
"  of  joints.  For  every  joint  and  every  finger 
**  hath  his  signification." 

Our  traveller  was  dazzled  by  the  splendour  of 
the  pagodas  of  Pegu,  covered  in  part,  and  some- 
times entirely,  with  gold  leaf,  which  must  be  re- 
newed every  ten  years.  It  is  remarked,  however, 
that  "  by  this  means  they  make  gold  dearer  in 
"  Pegu  than  it  would  be,  if  they  consumed  not  so 
"  much  in  this  vanitie.**  He  observed  several  of 
these  gigantic  images  which  are  characteristic  of 
the  worshippers  of  Boodh.  He  saw  "  a  man  of 
"  gold  very  great,  with  a  crowne,  and  four  little 
"  children  of  gold."  There  was  also  "  a  man  of 
"  silver,"  who  surpassed  in  height  the  roof  of  any 
house,  and  whose  feet  were  as  long  as  our  tra- 
veller's whole  body.  There  were  besides  other 
**  heathenish  idols  of  a  very  great  value," 

Gasparo  Balbi,  who  visited  Pegu  in  1583, 
found  it  in  nearly  the  same  condition.  He  had 
an  interview  with  the  King,  for  the  purpose  of 
delivering  a  present  of  emeralds.  His  majesty 
began  inquiring  about  the  King  of  Venice  j  and 
being  told  there  was  no  king,  and  that  it  was  a 
republic,  he  burst  into  a  fit  of  laughter  so  immo- 


PEGU BALBI.  21 S 

derate,  as  made  him  for  a  long  time  unable  to 
speak.  Being  engaged  in  a  quarrel  with  his  uncle 
the  King  of  Ava,  who  was  supposed  to  aim  at  de- 
throning him,  and  suspecting  his  nobles  to  be  in 
the  interest  of  his  adversary,  he  collected  them 
all,  with  their  wives  and  children,  to  the  number 
of  four  thousand,  and  causing  them  to  be  placed 
on  "  an  eminent  and  spacious  scaffold,"  ordered 
his  officers  to  set  fire  to  it.  Our  author  was  pre- 
sent, and  saw  it  "  with  great  compassion  and 
"  grief,  that  little  children,  without  any  fault, 
**  should  suffer  such  martyrdom.**  The  King 
then  set  out  with  a  great  force  to  attack  his  rival, 
-whom  he  defeated  with  immense  slaughter,  and 
killed  in  single  combat. 

During  the  two  following  centuries  these  coun- 
tries attracted  little  attention,  till  circumstances 
occurred  which  brought  them  again  into  view. 
The  Birmans,  after  being  a  considerable  time 
subject  to  Pegu,  rallying  under  the  auspices  of 
Alompra,  not  only  reasserted  their  own  indepen- 
dence, but  conquered  that  country,  to  which  they 
added  the  fertile  region  of  Arracan,  bordering  on 
the  Bay  of  Bengal.  Some  Arracan  pirates,  who 
had  become  obnoxious  to  the  Birman  laws,  hav- 
ing sought  refuge  in  the  British  territories,  a 
Birman  force,  despatched  to  seize  them,  entered 
the  eastern  frontier  of  Bengal.     This  encroach- 


214  EASTERN  INDIA. 

ment  appearing  to  call  for  notice,  a  British  force 
was  immediately  marched  to  the  same  point.  A 
representation  being  then  made  to  the  Birman 
commander,  he  stated  the  above  as  the  only  cause 
of  his  having  passed  the  frontier.  To  this  it  was 
replied,  that  the  offenders  would  be  sought  out 
and  delivered  up,  but  that  he  must  retire  within 
the  limits  of  his  own  country.  He  acquiesced, 
and  the  British  government  acting  faithfully  its 
part,  the  culprits  were  delivered  up,  and  suffered 
condign  punishment.  The  Birman  empire  being 
thus  brought  into  notice.  Sir  John  Shore,  the 
governor-general,  conceived  that  a  commercial 
intercourse  with  it  might  at  once  afford  an  open- 
ing for  British  commodities,  and  a  supply  of  teak 
timber,  the  value  of  which  for  ship  building 
began  to  be  appreciated.  A  mission  was  there- 
fore despatched,  composed  of  Major  Symes,  Dr 
Francis  Buchanan,  and  Mr  Wood,  who  set  sail 
from  Calcutta,  and  landed  at  Rangoon. 

Rangoon  was  found  by  the  embassy  a  consider- 
able town,  containing  5000  houses,  and  probably 
about  30,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  sort  of  general 
asylum  for  insolvent  debtors,  who  all  find  here 
employment,  protection,  and  some  petty  trade, 
that  will  afford  them  a  subsistence.  In  the  efforts 
which  the  government  was  making  to  re-establish 
it  after  the  desolation  occasioned  by  civil  wars, 
the  services  of  intelligent  foreigners,  even  of  the 


AVA — SYMES.  215 

lowest  rank,  were  heartily  welcomed.  The  most 
important  offices  about  the  port  were  held  by 
Baba  Sheen,  a  very  intelligent  Armenian,  and 
Jaunsee,  a  Portuguese.  The  increasing  trade 
and  population  of  the  town  had  extended  it  con- 
siderably beyond  the  limits  originally  fixed  by 
Alompra.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  annoyed 
with  herds  of  swine,  and  a  set  of  noisy  little  dogs ; 
but  they  are  clean,  and  well  paved.  The  houses 
of  the  principal  inhabitants  are  within  a  fortified 
space,  the  defences  of  which,  however,  are  in  a 
very  poor  condition. 

From  Rangoon  the  embassy  proceeded  by 
water  to  Pegu,  through  a  country  bearing  marks 
of  former  culture  and  population,  but  almost  re- 
duced to  a  desert  by  the  wars  of  which  it  had 
been  the  theatre.  This  capital,  which  the  early 
travellers  saw  in  all  its  glory,  had  subsequently 
been  plunged  into  a  state  of  ruin,  from  which  it 
was  just  beginning  to  emerge.  The  reigning  so- 
vereign, impelled,  as  Dr  Buchanan  understood,  by 
a  superstitious  impression  from  a  dream,  but  Major 
Symes  thinks  by  a  wish  to  conciliate  his  Pegu  sub- 
jects, had  determined  to  restore  their  ancient  seat 
of  empire.  A  very  elegant  plan  of  a  town  had  there- 
fore been  formed,  covering  about  half  the  former 
site ;  but  it  was  difficult  to  find  inhabitants,  as  the 
princes  and  chiefs  who  had  composed  the  former 
splendour  of  Pegu  were  either  extinct  or  dispers* 


216  EASTERN  ASIA. 

ed,  and  the  merchants  were  unwilling  to  remove 
from  the  more  convenient  situation  of  Rangoon. 
Pegu,  however,  still  retained  its  brightest  orna- 
ment, the  temple  of  Shoemadoo,  or  the  Golden 
Supreme,  which  the  piety  of  Alompra  had  spared 
when  he  razed  every  other  edifice  to  the  ground. 
It  is  raised  upon  two  terraces,  one  side  of  the  ex- 
terior one  being  1391  feet  in  length.  The  body 
of  the  edifice  is  of  a  pyramidal  form,  very  rapidly 
diminishing  in  breadth  as  it  ascends  ;  at  the  top 
is  an  ornamented  spire,  surmounted  by  a  tee  or 
umbrella  fifty-six  feet  high.  The  whole  structure 
has  much  the  appearance  of  a  large  speaking 
trumpet.  The  ornaments  are  light,  showy,  and 
fluttering,  but  without  that  dignity  and  true 
taste  which  characterizes  classic  architecture. 
The  height  from  the  ground  is  56l  feet ;  and  the 
whole  is  entirely  solid,  without  any  sort  of  aper- 
ture or  excavation.  The  umbrella  is  gilded, 
and  the  King  held  out  some  idea  of  gilding  the 
whole  of  the  spire. 

The  embassy  were  well  received  both  by  the 
Maywoon  or  viceroy,  and  by  the  inhabitants  in 
general.  The  latter  shewed  an  extreme  but 
courteous  and  peaceable  curiosity.  The  higher 
classes  came  to  visit  them  with  very  little  cere- 
mony, sometimes  asking  permission  at  the  door, 
and  sometimes  not.  They  merely  entered  the 
outer  hall,  however,  and  seated  themselves  on  the 


AVA SYMES.  217 

floor  with  their  legs  inverted,  without  attempting 
to  penetrate  into  the  inner  apartments,  or  touch- 
ing any  thing  ;  and  when  asked  to  depart,  cheer- 
fully acquiesced.  The  English  found  every  house 
open  to  themselves  on  the  same  footing.  They 
happened  to  arrive  on  the  eve  of  a  great  annual 
festival,  which  many  came  from  a  great  distance 
to  attend.  The  display  on  the  first  day  consisted 
of  wrestling  and  pugilism,  in  the  first  of  which 
they  excelled  much  more  than  in  the  last ;  on 
the  second,  in  fire- works,  chiefly  rockets,  enclosed 
in  hollow  trunks  of  trees  six  or  eight  feet  long, 
which  made  a  very  grand  display.  The  crowd 
was  immense,  and  the  hilarity  unbounded  j  yet 
there  was  not  the  least  disorder,  nor  a  single  in- 
stance of  intoxication.  Some  days  after  a  drama 
was  performed,  exhibiting  scenes  from  the  Ilama- 
yana.  Major  Symes  extols  very  highly  both  the 
dialogue  and  acting,  and  conceives  that  one  of 
the  performers  could  have  rivalled  any  in  Britain. 
Dr  Buchanan's  criticism  is  more  severe.  He  ad- 
mits indeed  the  unbounded  mirth  excited  in  the 
natives  ;  but  states,  that  the  little  he  was  able  to 
understand  gave  him  a  very  low  idea  of  the  sour- 
ces from  which  it  arose.  On  the  12th  April, 
being  the  last  day  of  the  Birman  year,  they  were 
invited  to  the  Maywoon's,  to  pass  through  the  ap- 
propriate ceremony  of  that  day.  This  consisted 
in  a  sort  of  contest  maintained  between  the  sexes. 


218  EASTERN  ASIA. 

by  copiously  bedewing  each  other  with  cold 
water.  On  arriving  at  the  palace,  they  found 
standing  in  the  hall  three  large  china  jars,  duly 
provided  with  bowls  and  ladles.  The  Maywoon's 
lady  stated  her  intention  to  take  no  part  in  the 
proceedings  ;  but  in  her  stead  there  issued  forth 
about  twenty  damsels,  who  surrounded  the  party, 
and  sprinkled  them,  to  their  own  infinite  amuse- 
ment, with  the  most  copious  libations.  The  Eng- 
lish endeavoured  to  return  the  compliment ;  but 
the  odds  was  so  fearful,  that  they  could  make  lit- 
tle impression  on  the  numerous  band  of  assailants. 
In  returning  home,  they  found  the  streets  cover- 
ed with  parties  engaged  in  the  same  amusement, 
which  was  practised  not  indeed  upon  them,  but 
liberally  upon  their  Birman  companions.  The 
whole  was  conducted  with  perfect  decency,  and 
perfect  good  humour. 

From  Pegu  the  embassy  returned  to  Rangoon  j 
and  after  a  short  residence  there  obtained  permis- 
sion to  proceed  to  the  Birman  capital  of  Ummera- 
poora.  They  sailed  up  the  great  river  Irawaddy, 
the  banks  of  which  were  in  general  highly  culti- 
vated, and  crowded  with  people,  and  its  stream 
covered  with  numerous  barks.  They  passed 
many  villages  and  towns,  of  which  the  principal 
were  Prome,  Meeaday,  Loonghee,  and  Pagahm. 
They  took  in'passing  a  hasty  viewofAva,  which  had 
till  of  late  been  the  splendid  capital  of  the  empire. 


AVA SYMES.  SI  9 

It  presented  a  complete  picture  of  desolation.  On 
the  first  order  to  transfer  the  seat  of  empire  to 
Ummerapoora,  the  inhabitants  had  taken  up  their 
houses  of  wood  and  bamboo,  and  carried  them  to 
the  new  city  ;  and  Ava  became  at  once  a  desert. 
The  walls,  the  palace,  the  council-hall,  and  many 
of  the  streets,  could  still  be  traced,  but  all  in 
ruins.  They  looked  into  two  large  buildings, 
which  had  been  destined  for  the  reception  of 
strangers  ;  bats  flew  in  their  faces,  and  a  noisome 
smell  issued  from  them.  Thorns,  bamboos,  and 
plantain  trees,  occupied  most  of  the  area  of  this 
once  great  capital.  The  temples  alone,  through 
the  reverence  invariably  paid  to  them  by  the  Bir- 
mans,  stood  still  untouched,  but  time  was  work- 
ing their  rapid  decay. 

After  leaving  this  gloomy  scene  of  departed 
greatness,  the  embassy  sailed  upwards,  and  had 
their  eyes  soon  greeted  with  the  magnificent 
spires  and  turrets  of  Ummerapoora,  which  ap- 
peared on  the  opposite  side  of  an  extensive  but 
temporary  lake,  formed  by  the  overflowing  of  the 
river.  The  King  happening  to  be  absent,  they 
were  accommodated  with  lodgings  in  the  village 
of  Tounzemahn,  situated  on  the  southern  bank 
of  the  lake,  while  the  capital  was  on  the  northern. 
The  wide  watery  scene,  the  furious  dashing  of 
the  waves,  the  numerous  boats  moored  to  the 
banks,  with  the  fort  and  city  of  Ummerapoora, 


220  EASTERN  INDIA. 

surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  lofty  moun- 
tains, formed  altogether  a  striking  and  singular 
landscape.  It  was  hinted  that  it  would  be  consi- 
dered neither  decorous  nor  dignified  to  be  seen 
in  public  previous  to  their  presentation,  but  that 
they  might  gratify  their  love  of  exercise  by  rid- 
ing out,  as  privately  as  possible,  towards  the  hills. 
All  their  wants  were  liberally  supplied,  and  the 
King  having  returned  in  a  short  time,  fixed  a  day 
for  their  public  audience.  Some  objection  was 
made  to  the  admission  of  Dr  Buchanan,  the  me- 
dical character  not  being  duly  estimated  here  ; 
but  as  this  point  was  insisted  upon,  they  agreed 
to  admit  him,  though  not  to  mount  him  on  an 
elephant. 

On  the  morning  of  the  appointed  day,  the  em- 
bassy came  down  to  the  lake,  where  they  found 
three  war  boats  which  conveyed  them  in  twenty 
minutes  to  the  opposite  side.  Here  an  elephant 
was  ready  to  receive  Major  Symes ;  but  as  he  had 
announced  his  inaptitude,  according  to  the  cus- 
tom of  the  country,  to  mount  on  its  neck  and 
take  his  seat  between  the  ears,  a  wicker  basket 
had  been  placed  on  its  back  and  fastened  with 
iron  chains,  an  apparatus  which  struck  him  as  not 
so  elegant  as  could  be  wished.  The  two  other 
gentlemen  were  mounted  on  little  active  Birman 
horses,  well  caparisoned.  They  now  entered  into 
a  broad  and  handsome  street  paved  with  brick. 


AVA SYMES.  221 

with  low  wooden  houses,  which,  in  honour  of  the 
occasion,  had  been  white-washed  and  decorated 
with  boughs  and  flowers.  The  streets  and  tops 
of  the  houses  were  covered  with  a  vast  multitude, 
who,  however,  kept  the  strictest  order,  leaving 
room  for  the  procession  to  move,  and  whenever 
it  came  in  sight,  squatting  on  their  hams  in  sign  of 
respect.  Thus  they  proceeded  through  the  city 
for  two  miles,  when  they  arrived  at  the  fortress, 
which  enclosed  the  royal  palace,  and  the  abodes 
of  the  principal  grandees.  Being  defended  by  a 
thick  rampart,  twenty  feet  high,  it  was  boasted  of 
by  the  Birmans  as  impregnable  j  and  Major  Symes 
did  not  chuse  to  mortify  their  pride  by  telling 
them,  that  half  a  dozen  cannon  would  in  a  few 
hours  make  it  a  heap  of  ruins.  Proceeding  through 
several  streets,  they  were  ushered  into  the  rhoom 
or  outer  saloon,  where  they  were  instructed  to  re- 
main till  the  princes  of  the  blood  had  entered. 
The  King's  five  sons  successively  passed,  the 
youngest  first,  and  the  Engy  Teekien,  or  heir- 
apparent,  last ;  each  attended  by  large  trains  be- 
coming always  more  numerous  and  splendid  ac- 
cording to  their  birth  and  dignity.  If  less  mag- 
nificence was  displayed  than  in  the  court  of  impe- 
rial Delhi,  there  was  more  dignity  and  decorum. 
The  embassy,  however,  was  detained  two  hours, 
which  appeared  somewhat  tedious,  especially  as 
there  were  some  deficiences  of  respect  in  the  at- 


222  EASTERN  INDIA. 

tendance.  Being  then  invited  to  enter,  they  pass- 
ed through  an  inner  court,  where  bands  of  tum- 
blers and  dancing  girls  were  exhibiting  their  feats. 
They  were  then  ushered  by  a  flight  of  stairs  into 
the  lotoo  or  great  hall,  where  the  court  was  as- 
sembled in  all  the  pomp  of  Birman  grandeur.  It 
was  supported  by  seventy-seven  gilded  pillars,  ar- 
ranged in  eleven  rows ;  while  at  the  end  a  high 
gilded  lattice  extended  quite  across  the  building. 
In  the  centre  was  a  gilded  door,  which,  when 
opened,  displayed  the  throne.  All  the  princes 
and  grandees  of  the  empire  were  seated  with  in- 
verted legs  on  the  floor  of  this  magnificent  saloon. 
A  place  was  reserved  for  the  mission,  but  they  in 
vain  strove  to  comply  with  the  request  to  place 
themselves  in  the  proper  Birman  posture,  and  not 
protrude  the  soles  of  their  feet  towards  the  seat 
of  majesty.  They  were  seriously  disappointed, 
however,  by  the  King  not  making  his  appearance. 
An  officer  merely  went  between  them  and  the 
royal  seat,  and  put  several  questions  as  from  his 
majesty,  which  when  they  had  answered,  a  hand- 
some desert  was  brought  in,  consisting  of  about  a 
hundred  small  dishes,  several  of  which  were  tasted 
and  proved  very  palatable.  The  court  then  broke 
up,  and  the  princes  departed  successively  in  the 
same  pomp  as  they  had  entered. 

The  ambassador  was  afterwards  invited  to  wait 
upon  the  different  princes  of  the  blood.     Major 


AVA SYMES.  223 

Symes,  however,  made  some  stipulations  as  to 
a  more  respectful  treatment,  which  were  tolerably- 
complied  with.  The  ceremony  and  pomp  were 
almost  equal  at  the  court  of  the  Engy  Teekien, 
as  at  that  of  the  monarch.  He  appeared  at  a 
window,  and  sat  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  erect 
and  motionless,  when  suddenly  the  shutters  were 
closed,  and  he  was  seen  no  more.  The  courts  of 
the  younger  princes  were  less  ceremonious  and 
more  gay.  They  were  led  through  files  of  ele- 
phants, and  entertained  with  exhibitions  of  tum- 
blers and  dancing  girls.  They  had  also  an  au- 
dience of  the  queen,  an  old  lady  of  seventy-two, 
who  received  them  in  a  very  complaisant  manner. 
Hopes  were  then  entertained  of  a  successful  ter- 
mination to  the  embassy ;  but  there  was  reason 
to  believe,  that  French  emissaries  afterwards  ar- 
rived, and  by  a  false  representation  of  the  state 
of  affairs  in  Europe,  gave  an  unfavourable  bias  to 
the  mind  of  the  King.  The  mission  were  privately 
informed  that  he  had  determined  not  to  grant 
them  a  personal  audience  at  their  departure,  any 
more  than  he  had  done  at  their  first  visit.  Ma- 
jor Symes  being  invited  to  court  to  receive  the 
presents  which  were  to  be  given  in  return  for  his, 
took  occasion  to  put  a  direct  question  upon  this 
subject,  to  which  an  equivocal  answer  was  re- 
turned. Neither  the  queen  nor  the  princes  ap- 
peared at  the  delivery  of  their  presents,  and  the 


224f  EASTERN  INDIA. 

members  of  the  embassy,  who  waited  on  them  for 
the  purpose,  experienced  every  neglect  short  of 
absolute  rudeness.  Under  these  circumstances, 
Major  Symes  determined  to  submit  to  the  govern- 
ment a  formal  representation.  He  urged  his  claim 
to  be  considered  as  the  representative  of  a  sove- 
reign power,  and  in  that  capacity  to  be  treated 
with  a  certain  ceremonial,  and  in  particular  to  be 
honoured  with  a  personal  audience  of  his  majesty, 
announcing  his  intention,  if  these  rights  were  with- 
held, to  depart  forthwith,  throwing  up  all  the  ar- 
rangements in  contemplation  for  the  mutual  bene- 
fit of  the  two  countries.  This  memorial  was  re- 
ported to  produce  a  very  strong  sensation  at  the 
Birman  court ;  but  after  a  long  consultation  it 
was  understood  to  be  determined  to  grant  every 
thing  demanded,  rather  than  come  to  an  opea 
rupture.  Being  assured,  therefore,  of  such  a  re- 
ception as  they  desired,  they  set  out  on  a  second 
visit  to  court.  They  were  received,  not  in  the 
lotoo,  but  in  the  royal  saloon  of  ceremony,  an 
apartment  equally  splendid.  In  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  the  folding  doors  which  concealed 
the  throne  were  opened,  and  the  King  was  seen 
walking  up  the  steps  which  led  to  it  from  behind. 
He  appeared  to  move  with  difficulty,  and  to  want 
the  free  use  of  his  limbs,  but  this  they  were  as- 
sured arose  solely  from  the  immense  weight  of 
gold  upon  his  person,  amounting  to  upwards  of 


AVA SYMES.  225 

fifty  pounds.  All  the  courtiers  bent  their  bodies ; 
but  the  English  were  only  required  to  lean  a  little 
forward,  and  turn  in  their  seat,  so  that  the  soles 
of  their  feet  might  be  in  no  degree  directed  to- 
wards his  Majesty.  The  King  merely  remained  a 
few  minutes,  and  uttered  some  indistinct  words, 
investing  some  one  with  an  order  of  nobility  j 
after  which  he  departed,  without  addressing  any 
words  to  the  embassy.  There  was  nothing  par- 
ticularly flattering  in  this  reception  ;  however,  as 
the  stipulated  terms  were  not  positively  infringed, 
it  was  not  thought  expedient  to  make  any  com- 
plaint. In  fact,  on  receiving  the  official  reply  to 
his  demands.  Major  Symes  found,  that  he  had 
obtained  all  the  essential  objects  of  his  mission. 
British  goods  were  allowed  to  be  imported  at  a 
duty  of  ten  per  cent  ad  valorem;  while  teak 
timber,  by  far  the  most  valuable  production  of 
the  Birman  empire,  might  be  exported  at  five  per 
cent.  He  soon  after  took  his  departure,  and,  sailing 
down  the  river,  embarked  at  Rangoon  for  India. 
According  to  the  information  collected  by 
Major  Symes  and  Dr  Buchanan,  the  fertility  of 
the  Birman  territory  appears  to  be  very  great. 
The  southern  provinces  are  finely  watered,  and 
produce  as  luxuriant  crops  of  rice  as  the  finest 
parts  of  Bengal.  The  northern  districts  are  part- 
ly composed  of  rude  mountains,  but  with  rich  plains 
and  valleys,  in  which  wheat  is  raised  of  excellent 

VOL.  III.  V 


226  EASTERN  INDIA. 

quality.  This  part  of  the  empire  yields  some 
gold  and  silver,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of 
diamonds  and  precious  stones.  Besides  teak  tim- 
ber, the  commercial  staple  of  the  empire,  it  con- 
tains various  other  useful  woods.  The  salubrity 
of  the  climate  is  attested  by  the  health  and  vigour 
of  the  natives.  The  banks  of  the  river  were  co- 
vered with  crowded  population  ;  and  from  all 
they  could  learn,  the  whole  number  of  people  in 
the  empire  could  not  fall  short  of  seventeen  mil- 
lions. 

The  Birmans  are  entirely  different  in  their  dis- 
position from  the  Hindoos.  They  are  bold,  ac- 
tive, fiery,  enterprising,  full  of  stir  and  curiosity. 
They  are  also  a  very  merry  people,  always  in 
search  of  amusement,  and  not  fastidious  in  its 
selection.  To  the  embassy  they  observed  uni- 
form courtesy  and  hospitality,  nor  did  the  excess 
of  their  curiosity  ever  show  itself  in  any  offensive 
form.  The  fair  sex  in  this  country  are  exempted 
from  that  restraint  and  confinement  which  they 
suffer  generally  over  the  East.  Yet  they  are  not, 
therefore,  treated  with  the  respect  due  to  them, 
but  are  subjected  to  severe  labour,  and  often 
bought  and  sold  almost  as  slaves.  When  a  stran- 
ger goes  to  reside  in  Ava,  he  is  accommodated, 
even  from  respectable  families,  with  a  temporary 
female  companion,  who  lives  with  him  as  his  wife, 
and  proves  usually  a  faithful  housekeeper,  but 


AVA SYMES.  227 

whom  he  is  on  no  account  permitted  to  take 
along  with  him.  There  are  other  particulars  of 
their  treatment,  which  mark  still  more  clearly  the 
very  low  idea  here  entertained  of  the  place  held 
by  this  fair  portion  of  the  species. 

In  Ava,  as  in  all  the  countries  in  the  east  of 
India,  the  religion  of  Boodh  or  Buddha  is  fully 
established.  That  person,  under  the  names  of 
Gaudma,  Goutama,  or  Godama,  is  the  universal 
object  of  worship.  He  is  supposed,  however,  to 
administer  the  affairs  of  the  world  only  during  a 
certain  period,  having  had  predecessors,  and  be- 
ing expected  to  have  successors.  He  is  repre- 
sented as  a  young  man  with  a  placid  expression, 
Birman  features,  and  usually  sitting  cross-legged 
on  a  throne.  The  temples  are  commonly  in  the 
form  of  a  pyramid  with  an  umbrella  at  top.  Gild- 
ing is  the  ornament  most  studiously  employed  ; 
and  many  devotees  undertake  to  gild  a  patch, 
without  any  regard  to  the  incongruous  appear- 
ance i^  makes.  Those  entirely  covered  are  called 
Shoey  or  Golden.  The  images  are  in  some  cases 
of  the  most  gigantic  magnitude.  Dr  Buchanan 
saw  in  Ava  one  composed  of  a  single  block  of 
pure  white  alabaster,  the  magnitude  of  which 
may  be  conjectured,  from  each  finger  being  equal 
to  the  leg  and  thigh  of  a  large  man.  Relics  of 
Gaudma,  consisting  of  minute  fragments  of  bone, 
skin,   hair,  &c.  are  reverentially  preserved,  and 


228     )  EASTERN  li^DIA. 

are  iven  considered  necessary  to  give  sanctity  to 
a  temple.  Kioums  or  monasteries,  the  inmates 
of  which  devote  themselves  to  celibacy,  and  pro- 
fess abstraction  from  all  worldly  concerns,  are 
characteristic  of  the  religion  of  Gaudma.  Those 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ummerapoora  are  very 
numerous,  and  though  built  only  of  wood,  some 
of  them  make  a  truly  magnificent  appearance, 
from  their  magnitude  and  the  immense  profusion 
of  gilded  columns. 

The  constitution  of  the  Birman  empire  does 
not  appear  to  differ  essentially  from  that  of  the 
other  monarchies  of  Asia.  In  principle  it  is  en- 
tirely despotic ;  the  will  of  the  sovereign  is  the 
supreme  law,  and  is  subject  to  no  check  either 
from  the  aristocracy  or  the  people.  The  adminis- 
tration, however,  appears  to  be  mild  j  property  is 
respected ;  and  even  those  who  are  employed  in 
maintaining  the  police,  studiously  avoid  any  harsh 
modes  of  enforcing  it.  There  are  a  considerable 
number  of  conquered  princes,  who  are  allowed  to 
retain  the  internal  government  of  their  own  states, 
upon  paying  military  service  and  tribute,  and  re- 
siding a  certain  portion  of  the  year  at  Ummera- 
poora. The  Birmans  are  a  nation  of  soldiers, 
yet  no  regular  army  is  maintained,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  royal  guards,  the  number  of  which, 
in  and  round  Ummerapoora,  was  not  supposed  to 
exceed  ^000  infantry,  and  the  same  number  of 


AVA SYMES.  2!29 

cavalry.  When  the  king  wishes  to  raise  an  army, 
he  sends  an  order  to  all  his  viceroys  and  gover- 
nors, fixing  the  number  of  men  which  each  is  to 
furnish.  They  receive  arms  and  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  grain,  but  no  pay ;  and  when  the  cam- 
paign is  over,  are  allowed  to  return  home.  Their 
musketry  is  bad,  and  their  cavalry  drawn  chiefly 
from  the  northern  country  of  Cassay.  Their  most 
imposing  military  force  are  the  war  boats,  hollow- 
ed out  of  the  solid  trunk  of  the  teak  tree,  some 
of  which  are  80  to  100  feet  long.  They  carry 
from  50  to  60  rowers  well  armed,  besides  30  sol- 
diers. They  advance  to  battle  singing  warlike 
songs,  draw  up  in  a  line,  and  present  their  prows 
to  the  enemy.  They  usually  endeavour  to  grap- 
ple, in  which  case  a  very  obstinate  conflict  ensues. 
Of  these  war  boats,  the  king,  on  a  short  notice, 
can  command  about  500. 

The  sacred  and  learned  language  of  the  Bir- 
man  empire  is  the  Pali,  which  is  believed  to  have 
been  the  ancient  language  of  Hindostan,  and  to 
bear  some  affinity  to  the  Sanscrit.  The  Palis  are 
said,  at  an  early  period,  to  have  held  high  sway 
in  that  country,  and  the  name  of  the  celebrated 
capital  of  Palibothra  to  have  been  derived  from 
them.  The  finest  books  are  written  on  thin  sheets 
of  ivory,  stained  black,  with  the  characters  ena- 
melled or  gilded.  The  common  books  are  writ- 
ten with  an  iron  pen  on  Palmyra  canes.     The 


230  EASTERN  INDIA. 

more  elegant  kinds  have  their  boards  lacquered 
and  ornamented  with  gilding,  and  are  wrapt  in 
silk  cloth,  bound  round  with  a  garter,  into 
which  the  title  of  the  book  is  woven.  They  are 
deposited  in  large  chests  lacquered  and  gilded, 
the  contents  of  each  chest  being  written  in  gold 
letters  on  the  lid.  Only  a  small  part  of  the  royal 
library  was  seen  ;  but  if  all  the  space  described  to 
be  occupied  by  it  was  equally  well  filled,  the  lib- 
rary of  the  Birman  king  must  be  very  extensive. 
The  greater  number  related  to  the  mysteries  of 
their  religion ;  but  there  were  also  treatises  on 
history,  music,  medicine,  painting,  and  romance. 
Their  poetry,  according  to  Dr  Buchanan,  consists 
chiefly  of  songs,  of  which  they  have  great  variety, 
accompanied  with  very  bad  music.  Their  his- 
tories, like  those  of  the  Hindoos,  consist  almost 
altogether  of  fables  and  prodigies.  Their  astro- 
nomy is  much  inferior  to  that  of  the  Brahmins ; 
and  their  calendar  had  become  very  erroneous, 
till  the  present  king,  under  the  direction  of  some 
learned  Brahmins,  introduced  an  intercalary 
month.  The  innovation,  however,  was  stren- 
uously resisted  by  the  Bhahaans,  and  had  not 
been  yet  introduced  in  the  remote  parts  of  the 
empire.  Their  knowledge  of  medicine  is  equally 
low.  Dr  Buchanan  being  consulted,  found  that 
he  was  expected  to  cure  diseases  by  supernatural 
means,  and  to  give  medicines  which  would  ren- 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  231 

der  them  invulnerable ;  and  on  denying  every 
such  pretension,  his  skill  was  held  in  very  slender 
account.  When  a  physician  in  this  country  is 
called  to  a  young  lady  who  is  seriously  ill,  it  is  a 
v-ery  common  stipulation,  that  if  he  effects  a  cure 
he  shall  receive  her  as  a  wife.  The  doctor  could 
not  learn  whether,  like  other  husbands,  he  has  a 
right  to  sell  the  wife  whom  he  has  thus  earned ; 
but  the  number  of  handsome  damsels  whom  he 
saw  making  part  of  the  household  establishment 
of  a  physician,  seemed  to  attest  the  extensive  pre- 
valence of  the  practice. 

Of  all  the  countries  situated  to  the  east  of  In- 
dia, the  most  opulent  and  civilized  appears  to  be 
Siam.  In  1516  it  was  visited  by  Duarte  Coelho, 
who  was  well  received,  and  even  allowed  to  erect 
a  wooden  cross  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  capi- 
tal. It  was  France  alone,  however,  that  made 
any  great  effort  to  establish  a  communication  with 
this  country.  In  1685,  the  King,  the  Academy 
of  Sciences,  and  the  Jesuits,  with  a  combined 
view  to  the  interests  of  politics,  astronomy,  and 
religion,  joined  in  sending  a  mission  into  this 
kingdom.  It  consisted  of  the  Chevalier  Chau- 
mont,  the  ambassador,  the  Abbe  de  Choisy, 
whose  dissolute  gaiety  ill  corresponded  with  his 
profession,  and  six  Jesuit  mathematicians.  One 
of  them,  Tachard,  afterwards  wrote  the  best  ac- 


232  EASTERN  INDIA. 

count  of  the  mission ;  and  two  others,  Lecomte 
and  Gerbillon,  distinguished  themselves  by  their 
subsequent  travels  in  and  around  China. 

We  shall  pass  over  the  first  part  of  the  narra- 
tive, which  contains  merely  the  common  inci- 
dents of  an  Indian  voyage.  On  arriving  in  the 
seas  of  Malacca,  they  describe  their  emotion  as 
being  chiefly  excited  by  viewing  the  scene  of  the 
miracles  and  preaching  of  St  Francis  Xavier. 
Entering  the  river  of  Siam,  they  landed  at  Ban- 
cock,  where  they  were  politely  received  by  a  Man- 
darin with  a  deputation.  That  officer,  anxious  to 
compliment  the  French,  and  proceeding  on  the 
principles  of  transmigration,  observed  to  Chau- 
mont,  that  this  country  could  not  be  new  to  him, 
as  it  was  well  known  that  his  soul,  though  in  a 
different  body,  had  been  sent  thither  on  a  similar 
mission  about  1000  years  ago.  The  ambassa- 
dor, however,  observed,  that  he  could  not  now 
derive  any  benefit  from  that  voyage,  the  events 
of  which  had  entirely  escaped  from  his  recollec- 
tion. They  were  furnished,  however,  with  hand- 
some batons  or  boats,  in  which  to  sail  up  to  the 
capital.  They  made  their  voyage  along  the  river 
Menam,  which  presented  a  magnificent  spectacle. 
The  neighbouring  grounds  being  inundated  dur- 
ing the  rainy  season,  produced  the  most  luxuriant 
crops  of  rice.  The  stream  was  entirely  covered 
with  barks,  many  of  which  resembled  houses,  in 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  233 

which,  as  in  the  Chinese  waters,  families  took  up 
their  permanent  abode.  The  villages  were  nume- 
rous ;  and  splendid  pagodas,  with  monasteries 
attached  to  them,  appeared  at  every  league. 

At  Siam,  the  embassy  were  received  by  Con- 
stantine,  the  prime  minister,  who,  to  their  most 
agreeable  surprise,  proved  to  be  an  European  and 
a  Roman  Catholic.  A  Greek  by  birth,  he  had 
gone  on  board  an  English  vessel,  and  spent  some 
years  in  London ;  thence  entering  into  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Company,  he  sailed  to  the  Indies. 
Having  made  a  little  fortune  at  Siam,  he  equipped 
a  vessel  on  his  own  account,  but  was  shipwrecked 
on  the  coast  of  Malabar.  He  had  saved  a  small  sum 
of  money,  however,  and  fancied  himself  encou- 
raged by  the  appearance,  in  a  dream,  of  a  majes- 
tic figure,  which  said  to  him  **  return.*'  Next  day 
he  met  on  the  shore  a  person,  shipwrecked  like 
himself,  who  proved  an  ambassador  of  the  king  of 
Siam,  in  his  way  from  Persia.  Constantine  could 
furnish  him  the  means  of  conveying  him  home, 
and  thus  introduced  himself  to  notice  at  court, 
where,  by  his  address  and  talents,  he  soon  raised 
himself  to  the  highest  place.  He  had  become  a 
protestant  in  London ;  but  the  diligence  of  the 
missionaries  at  Siam  brought  him  within  the  pale 
of  the  Catholic  church. 

Under  auspices  so  favourable,  the  ambassador 
had  no  difficulty  in  making  early  and  satisfactory 


23't  EASTERN  INDIA. 

arrangements  for  their  introduction  at  court. 
Forty  Mandarins  came  to  conduct  them,  who,  on 
beinsr  shewn  the  Kinff  of  France's  letter  enclosed 
in  a  gold  box,  worshipped  it  three  times,  with 
their  faces  to  the  ground.  The  embassy  were 
then  embarked  in  twelve  gilded  boats,  and  sailed 
across  the  river,  which  was  entirely  covered  with 
floating  spectators.  Having  landed,  they  came  to  a 
great  square,  where  were  drawn  up  two  long  rows 
of  elephants,  between  which  they  were  led.  They 
now  entered  a  court,  round  which  ^000  soldiers 
were  ranged  ;  and  passing  two  others  came  to  a 
fourth,  where  they  were  surprised  to  see  twenty- 
four  Mandarins  lying  flat  on  their  faces,  without 
shoes  or  stockings.  The  embassy  was  thence 
ushered  into  the  presence-hall.  Chaumont  had 
made  very  high  terms  as  to  the  ceremonial,  in- 
sisting upon  keeping  on  their  shoes  contrary  to 
all  oriental  etiquette,  and  also  upon  delivering  the 
letter  into  the  King's  own  hands,  whereas  it  was  cus- 
tomary to  transmit  it  through  one  of  the  officers. 
The  ambassador  having  entered,  and  found  the 
King  seated,  made  three  bows  in  the  course  of 
liis  advance ;  then  he  began  a  speech,  after  two 
or  three  words  of  which  he  put  on  his  hat,  sat 
down,  and  delivered  the  rest.  He  then  rose  to 
give  the  letter;  but  it  appeared  to  him  that  the 
King's  position  was  much  higher  than  had  been 
stipulated,  or  than  would  admit  of  his  delivering 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  235 

the  letter,  without  stretching  his  person  in  a  man- 
ner unsuitable  to  its  dignity.  In  this  exigency, 
he  formed  at  once  the  high  determination  not  to 
lift  the  letter  higher  than  himself.  Constantine, 
who  was  lying  extended  on  the  ground  on  his 
hands  and  feet,  implored  that  he  would  raise  his 
arm ;  but  the  ambassador  pretended  to  hear  no- 
thing, and  at  last  the  King,  laughing,  stooped  and 
took  the  gold  box  in  which  the  epistle  was  con- 
tained. He  then  conversed  for  about  an  hour 
with  great  affability,  and  made  many  inquiries 
about  the  affairs  of  France.  All  the  Mandarins 
who  were  in  the  hall  remained  flat,  with  their 
faces  on  the  ground,  so  long  as  the  King  was  pre- 
sent. 

The  Jesuits,  during  their  stay,  had  several  pri- 
vate interviews  with  the  King,  in  all  of  which 
they  were  courteously  entertained.  On  one  occa- 
sion he  was  much  amused  by  seeing  through  their 
glasses  an  eclipse  of  the  moon,  and  put  many 
questions  on  the  subject.  Nothing,  however, 
could  shake  in  him  or  his  learned  men  the  uni- 
versal conviction  of  the  East,  that  a  huge  dragon 
was  then  attacking  and  devouring  that  luminary. 
On  being  asked  how,  on  this  theory,  it  could  be 
possible  to  predict  the  period  with  such  precision, 
they  replied,  that  Europeans  knew  how  to  calcu- 
late the  periodical  returns  of  the  monster's  appe- 
tite, and  the  moment  when  his  empty  stomach 


23(j  EASTERN  INDIA. 

would  require  a  new  meal.  It  had  been  cus- 
tomary with  the  King  to  chuse  precisely  the  time 
when  the  inundation  ceased,  to  go  out  in  proces- 
sion and  strike  the  waters,  ordering  them  to  re- 
tire ;  of  which  command  the  natural  diminution 
appeared  to  be  the  fruit.  A  mistake,  however, 
being  sometimes  committed  as  to  the  period,  the 
waters  had  proved  refractory,  and  the  custom 
had  been  given  up.  The  highest  pride  of  the 
court  consisted  in  its  elephants.  The  French 
saw  the  white  elephant,  so  celebrated  in  the  annals 
of  eastern  India,  It  made  a  very  sorry  appear- 
ance, being  small,  quite  worn  down,  and  wrinkled 
"with  age.  It  was  kept,  however,  in  the  greatest 
pomp,  and  had  a  hundred  men  to  attend  it.  They 
were  much  more  gratified  by  the  view  of  the 
prince  elephant,  a  very  fine  and  large  animal. 
The  least  of  them  was  served  by  twenty  men. 

A  report  had  been  spread  that  the  King  of  Siam 
had  shewn  a  disposition  to  embrace  the  Christian 
religion.  The  Jesuits  candidly  state,  that  they 
had  no  ground  to  entertain  such  an  expectation  ; 
and  that  Constantine,  though  himself  a  Catholic, 
had  assured  them  that  every  idea  of  the  kind  was 
totally  out  of  the  question.  They  went  to  view 
the  principal  pagoda  in  the  city  of  Siam.  It  was 
long  and  narrow  externally,  covered  all  over  with 
a  metal  called  califi.  On  entering,  they  saw  no- 
thing but  gold.    There  was  an  idol  forty-five  feet 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  237 

in  height,  and  reaching  to  the  roof,  entirely  com- 
posed  of  that  precious  metal.  The  missionaries, 
amid  their  admiration,  were  deeply  grieved  to 
think,  that  this  one  idol  contained  more  gold 
than  all  the  images  of  Catholic  Europe  put  toge- 
ther. 

After  some  stay,  the  Jesuits  continuing  still  in 
high  favour,  Tachard  returned  to  France,  with  a 
petition  for  twelve  new  mathematical  Jesuits,  and 
also  with  permission  to  erect  a  fort  and  factory  at 
Bancock.  Preparations  were  made  without  de- 
lay to  fulfil  these  two  destinations ;  the  voyage 
was  prosperously  performed,  and  their  reception 
was  equally  flattering  as  before.  Nothing  mate- 
rially new  occurred  in  this  mission  ;  but  Tachard 
had  along  with  him  La  Loubere,  who  produced 
afterwards  a  general  description  of  Siam,  so  ac- 
curate and  intelligent,  as  to  be  perhaps  the  most 
valuable  fruit  of  the  expedition. 

Siam  exists  entirely  by  the  great  river  of  Me- 
nam,  which  traverses  its  whole  extent  from  north 
to  south.  The  plain  through  which  it  flows  is 
perfectly  level  and  fertile,  but  at  a  little  distance 
on  each  side  the  ground  rises  into  mountains, 
forests,  and  uncultivated  grounds,  overrun  with 
•wild  beasts.  There  are  some  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  which  the  King  is  said  to  have  expected  to 
equal  those  of  Peru,  from  the  consideration  of 
Siam  being  the  precise  antipode  of  that  part  of 


^38  EASTERN  INDIA. 

America ;  but  this  analogy  seems  the  only  ground 
for  such  an  expectation.  A  more  curious  mi- 
neral production  consisted  in  a  mine  of  loadstone, 
which  the  Jesuits  visited.  It  attracted  the  pieces 
of  iron  with  extraordinary  force  ;  but  the  needle 
in  its  vicinity  became  quite  irregular.  So  far  as 
could  be  judged  from  the  direction  of  the  iron  in- 
struments, the  poles  of  the  mine  were  from  north 
to  south. 

Siam  appears  to  be  a  complete  despotism,  there 
being  no  popular  assembly,  and  no  individual 
dignity,  except  what  is  derived  from  office,  and 
expires  with  it.  The  Siamese  are  all  held  bound 
to  military  service.  A  register  is  kept  of  the 
whole  free  male  population,  every  one  of  whom, 
when  called  upon,  must  join  the  army  for  six 
months  in  the  year.  The  dignities,  as  in  the 
Mogul  empire,  are  according  to  the  number  of 
men  placed  under  the  command  of  each.  No 
salary  is  attached  to  them  :  the  emoluments  are 
derived  from  land,  slaves,  or  edifices  assigned  for 
the  support  of  the  office,  and  remaining  attached 
to  it.  But  the  mode  of  enriching  themselves,  to 
which  the  officers  chiefly  trust,  is  exaction,  which 
is  winked  at  by  the  sovereign,  and  carried  to  a 
vast  extent  in  every  department. 

In  the  Siamese  tribunals,  though  composed  of 
several  members,  the  power  of  decision  rests 
entirely  with  the  president ;  the  others  are  there 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  239 

only  to  aid  with  their  counsel.  They  have  an 
authoritative  book  of  law,  in  three  volumes.  In 
all  intricate  cases,  however,  their  main  depen- 
dence is  placed  upon  ordeal.  This  is  administer- 
ed in  various  forms,  such  as  walking  over  red  hot 
iron,  which  is  not,  perhaps,  excessively  perilous 
to  those  who  can  summon  courage  sufficient,  as 
their  feet  being  always  naked,  the  soles  become 
hard  like  horn.  Another  proof  is  by  putting  the 
hands  into  boiling  oil.  A  Frenchman  being  rob- 
bed by  a  native,  felt  such  imprudent  confidence 
in  the  justice  of  his  cause,  as  to  accede  to  this 
test  J  but  drew  out  his  hand  burned  in  the  most 
cruel  manner,  and  was  covered  at  once  with  shame 
and  agony,  while  the  thief  triumphantly  exhibit- 
ed his,  perfectly  uninjured.  Others  are  thrown 
to  tigers,  who,  it  is  supposed,  will  spare  the  inno- 
cent. 

The  religion  of  Siam,  though  the  missionaries 
do  not  seem  aware  of  it,  is  evidently  that  of 
Boodh,  or  Buddha,  called  also  Gaudma,  or  God- 
ama,  which  is  also  established  in  Ava,  Thibet, 
Tartary,  and  so  many  other  countries  of  Asia. 
Their  chief  object  of  worship  is  called  Somono- 
Codom,  which  last  part  of  the  name  differs  proba- 
bly from  Gaudma  only  by  a  variation  in  Euro- 
pean pronunciation.  Their  sacred  books  are  in 
the  Bali  language,  doubtless  the  same  in  Ava 
called  Pali.     The  monks  of  the  order  denominat- 

47 


24-0  EASTERN  INDIA. 

ed  Talapoins,  like  all  the  others,  reside  in  spacious 
convents,  and  profess  rigid  celibacy.  They  ap- 
pear to  preach  with  a  diligence  unknown  in  any 
other  country  where  the  same  system  prevails. 
A  Talapoin  will  harangue  the  people  from  six  in 
the  morning  till  the  hour  of  dinner,  and  will  be- 
gin afresh  in  the  afternoon.  The  people,  if  satis- 
fied, not  only  express  their  feelings  by  murmurs 
of  approbation,  but  by  solid  gifts  ;  so  that  a 
Talapoin  preacher,  if  popular,  soon  becomes  rich. 
Poetry  is  much  relished,  and  extensively  culti- 
vated among  the  Siamese,  though  both  their  ver- 
sification and  sentiments  are  very  different  from 
those  which  are  relished  in  Europe.  As  there 
are  no  public  assemblies,  and  no  pleadings  in 
their  courts  of  judicature,  no  scope  is  afforded  to 
eloquence.  They  shew  some  knowledge  of  ma- 
thematics and  astronomy,  though  not  nearly  equal 
to  that  of  the  Brahmins.  Medicine  is  in  a  very 
low  state.  It  is  not  founded  on  the  least  idea  of 
anatomy,  nor  any  thing  but  a  few  ancient  re- 
ceipts, which  are  blindly  followed.  The  rude- 
ness of  their  practice  may  be  inferred  from  one 
of  their  favourite  cures,  which  consists  in  laying 
the  patient  flat,  and  trampling  him  under  foot. 
This  gentle  process  is  used  even  in  the  case  of 
pregnant  females,  to  facilitate  the  accouchement. 
Should  these  powerful  remedies  not  produce  the 
intended  effect,  witchcraft  alone,  it  is  supposed, 


SIAM FRENCH  EMBASSY.  241 

can  account  for  the  failure.  The  guilty  persons 
are  therefore  inquired  after,  and  proceeded  against 
with  the  utmost  severity. 

The  Siamese  do  not  distinguish  themselves  as 
artisans,  for  this  very  sufficient  reason,  that  who- 
ever rises  to  any  eminence  in  them  is  immediately 
sent  for  by  the  King,  and  obliged,  during  the  rest 
of  his  life,  to  work  for  his  sole  behoof.  They 
make  little  cloth,  silk  and  woollen  not  at  all,  and 
cotton  not  to  a  great  extent.  They  embroider 
well,  understand  working  in  gold  and  silver,  and 
are  skilful  founders,  for  which  occupations  ample 
scope  is  found  in  the  embellishment  of  temples 
and  manufacture  of  deities.  In  general,  the 
Siamese  character  appears  to  be  such  as  despotism 
usually  forms.  They  are  mild,  polite,  courteous, 
but  artful,  deceitful,  timid,  avaricious,  incurious, 
proud  to  such  as  they  think  in  their  power,  and 
cringing  to  those  who  treat  them  with  haughti- 
ness. They  are  said,  however,  to  be  honest  in 
their  dealings,  and  so  kind  to  their  relations,  that 
beggary  and  pauperism  are  scarcely  known. 

CocHiNCHiNA,  with  its  bordering  territories  of 
Cambodia  and  Tonquin,  bear  nearly  the  same  re- 
lation to  China  that  the  Birman  empire  and  Siam 
bear  to  Hindostan.  From  it  they  borrowed  the 
basis  of  their  laws  and  institutions,  which  exist 

VOL.  Ill,  Q 


242  EASTERN  INDIA. 

however  in  a  ruder,  looser,  and  freer  form  than  in 
the  parent  empire. 

Cochinchina,  eclipsed  by  the  superior  splendour 
of  its  neighbour,  and  possessing  no  great  charac- 
teristic staple  of  trade,  has  not  attracted  any  large 
share  of  European  notice.  Its  first  explorers,  as 
in  other  countries  of  the  East,  were  the  Portu- 
guese missionaries.  A  curious  account  of  their 
proceedings  is  given  by  Christopher  Borri,  one 
of  the  most  active  of  their  number.  The  first  Ca- 
tholic priests  were  brought  thither  from  Manilla 
by  the  Portuguese  merchants,  merely  to  say  mass 
and  administer  the  sacraments.  These  persons 
did  not  hesitate  to  transmit  accounts  to  Europe 
of  their  having  converted  many  great  ladies,  and 
among  others  the  Infanta  of  Cochinchina ;  where- 
as it  was  afterwards  found  that,  besides  there  be- 
ing no  such  person  as  the  Infanta,  there  was  no 
one  about  court  who  had  given  any  "  token  of 
"  being  a  Christian,  or  so  much  as  knowing  what 
"  a  Christian  is."  Thus  encouraged,  however, 
the  superiors  at  Macao  sent  an  eminent  father, 
Francis  Buzome,  with  several  companions,  to  cul- 
tivate these  favourable  prospects.  On  his  arrival, 
the  chaplains  boasted  of  the  number  of  those 
whom  they  had  brought  to  the  profession  of  Chris- 
tianity ;  but  Buzome,  on  sifting  the  matter,  soon 
found  that  their  converts  had  not  even  an  idea  of 
what  the  word  Christian  meant.     The  question 


COCHINCHINA BORRI.  243 

put  had  imported,  if  they  would  enter  into  the 
bosom  of  the  church ;  but  the  word  church  they 
had  understood  to  mean  Portuguese,  and  had 
merely  supposed  themselves  to  be  changing  their 
country.  This  was  manifest  from  a  play  which 
he  saw  acted  in  the  public  market,  where  a  man 
whose  body,  by  a  peculiar  arrangement  of  dress, 
was  swelled  to  a  most  enormous  size,  addressed 
the  usual  question  of  the  chaplains  to  a  boy,  who, 
assenting,  entered  into  his  huge  body,  to  the  in- 
finite amusement  of  the  spectators.  Buzome  lost 
no  time  in  changing  the  formula,  and  in  endea- 
vouring to  convey  to  the  converts  some  idea  of 
what  they  were  asked  to  become.  He  met  with 
considerable  success,  and  even  prevailed  on  a 
number  of  natives  to  join  in  building  a  very  hand- 
some church.  The  observation  of  this  excited 
the  envy  of  the  omsaiis  or  priests,  who  took  ad- 
vantage of  a  drought  with  which  the  kingdom 
was  afflicted,  and  represented,  that  it  was  no 
wonder  if  the  Gods  denied  rain,  when  a  body  of 
strangers  were  allowed  to  preach  a  doctrine  by 
which  these  deities  were  so  deeply  dishonoured. 
At  the  same  time  the  chief  omsaii  proceeded 
to  the  top  of  a  mountain,  where  he  *'  began  to 
"  call  upon  his  devils,"  and  thrice  struck  the 
earth  with  his  feet,  when  a  shower  came,  which 
was  quite  inadequate  indeed  to  the  relief  of  the 
country,   yet  the  multitude  declared  that  none 


244«  EASTERN  INDIA. 

of  the  foreign  priests  had  done  so  much.  They 
therefore  loudly  demanded  from  the  king  their 
banishment,  and  the  prince,  though  reluctant,  was 
driven  by  the  fear  of  rebellion  into  compliance. 
Unfortunately,  the  wind  blew  in  such  a  direction 
that  no  vessel  could  leave  the  port ;  so  that  being 
thrust  out  of  the  city,  they  were  thrown  unshel- 
tered into  an  intermediate  state  between  land  and 
sea,  and  exposed  to  the  most  doleful  sufferings ;  at 
the  same  time  that  their  eyes  were  greeted  by  the 
flam.es  of  the  church  ascending.  The  congregation 
at  Macao  learning  this  distressed  state  of  their  bro- 
ther, sent  a  merchant  vessel  to  afford  what  relief 
it  could ;  and  in  it  went  Borri,  our  narrator,  un- 
der the  disguise  of  a  slave.  Being  observed,  how- 
ever, composing  a  dispute  between  two  Portu- 
guese, the  people  cried  out,  that  only  a  priest 
could  have  such  influence,  and  ran  to  carry  the 
tidings  to  the  governor.  Hereupon,  "  believing  I 
"  was  certainly  a  dead  man,  I  resolved  to  die  as 
"  what  I  was  ;*'  he,  therefore,  put  on  his  surplice 
and  stole,  and  began  to  preach.  Presently  after, 
a  torrent  of  rain  came  on,  which  sunk  in  oblivion 
all  the  enmity  with  which  the  friars  were  viewed. 
A  person  of  distinction  happening  to  come  to  the 
place,  saw  Father  Buzome  reduced  to  the  most 
extenuated  state,  and  hearing  that  it  was  on  a 
charge  of  having  withheld  rain  from  Cochinchina, 
was  seized  with  equal  mirth,  amazement,   and 


COCHINCHINA BORRI.  245 

pity.  He  carried  him  home,  therefore,  and  pro- 
cured the  best  medical  aid.  Through  his  friend- 
ship a  new  church  was  erected,  and  their  affairs 
appeared  in  a  prosperous  state,  when  his  death 
threw  them  back  into  difficulty  and  neglect. 
While  the  missionary  was  sitting  in  a  somewhat 
solitary  and  disconsolate  state,  he  heard  a  noise, 
and  looking  out  saw  with  surprise  a  long  train  of 
elephants,  on  which  a  number  of  ladies,  richly 
dressed,  were  seated.  In  their  rear  rode  one 
whom  the  peculiar  splendour  of  her  attire,  and 
a  blaze  of  jewels  with  which  she  was  covered, 
announced  as  their  mistress.  She  stated  the  in- 
formation she  had  received  as  to  the  unblemish- 
ed life  he  led,  and  the  doctrine  he  taught,  which 
last  appeared  to  her  the  only  true  one.  She, 
therefore,  besought  to  be  bathed  in  his  holy  water, 
so  as  to  insure  to  herself  a  passage  into  paradise. 
The  father  hesitated  a  good  deal,  as  he  wanted 
both  time  and  sufficient  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage to  instruct  her  duly  in  the  doctrines  of  the 
faith.  This  delay  much  afflicted  the  lady,  who 
was  in  daily  fear  of  dying  in  her  heathen  state, 
and  seems  to  have  considered  her  salvation  as 
solely  depending  upon  this  rite.  To  shew  her 
humility,  she  laid  aside  her  elephants,  and  repeat- 
edly walked  a  mile  barefooted  through  the  mire 
to  solicit  it.  The  Father  at  last  could  not  resist 
her  importunity ;  but  a  greater  difficulty  arose  in 


EASTERN  INDIA. 


regard  to  her  women,  who  stood  all  in  the  capa- 
city of  secondary  wives  to  her  husband,  who  was 
ambassador  to  the  King  of  Cambodia.    On  learn- 
ing, however,  that  this  would  prevent  him  from 
opening  to  them  the  gate  of  paradise,  they  all 
protested  that  they  would  rather  leave  him  and 
each  look  out  for  a  husband  to  herself,  in  which 
search  the  lady  charitably  pledged  herself  to  as- 
sist.    On  these  conditions  they  received  baptism, 
whereupon  they  broke  in  pieces  their  idols,  and 
received  in   their  stead  Catholic   images;    then 
taking  from  their  neck  the  gold  chains  and  strings 
of  pearls  that  were  round  them,  put  on  Agnus 
Deis,  crosses,  medals  and  relics.     The  ambassa- 
dor arriving  home  soon  after,  was  not  a  little  sur- 
prised at  seeing  them  thus  bedecked  ;  however, 
upon  their  earnest  representations,  and  the  ex- 
hortation of  the  friar,  he  soon  showed  favourable 
dispositions  for  becoming  a  convert.     Till  these 
appeared    tolerably  confirmed,    it    was    thought 
best  to  say  nothing  of  his  wives,  who  were  twen- 
ty-five in  number ;  but  when  he  began  to  press 
for    the    ceremony,    the    missionary   judged    it 
needful   to   state   their  dismissal  as  a   requisite 
preliminary.     Hereupon,    "  like  fire  with  water 
*'  thrown  upon  it,  the  ambassador  presently  cool- 
'*  ed."     He  demanded  at  least  time  to  consider, 
and  next  day  sent  a  learned  omsaii  to  argue  the 
matter.     The  missionaries  however  reasoned  so 


COCHINCHINA BORRI.  217 

well,  that  the  ambassador  became  sensible  they 
had  right  on  their  side.  He  came  however  ask- 
ing, "  is  there  no  remedy  or  dispensation  from  the 
"  Pope,  or  any  other  means,  though  never  so  dif- 
*'  ficult,  to  have  this  point  remitted  ? — We  told  him 
**  it  was  in  vain  to  seek  any  redress  whatsoever  in 
**  this  case."  The  ambassador  hereupon  piously 
resolved  to  obey,  and  gave  orders  that  the  whole 
should  be  dismissed  that  very  night.  The  ladies, 
however,  who,  after  obtaining  the  boon,  seem  to 
have  thought  very  little  of  their  engagements,  on- 
ly laughed,  evidently  thinking  the  house  as  much 
theirs  as  his  j  and  even  the  principal  wife  rush- 
ed in,  declaring  these  were  persons  who  had  been 
brought  up  with  her  from  her  infancy,  whom  she 
loved  as  her  children,  and  whose  services  she 
could  not  do  without.  All  that  could  be  agreed 
to  was,  that  they  should  no  longer  officiate  as 
wives,  but  simply  as  her  attendants.  The  ambas- 
sador, however,  confidentially  stated  to  the  friars, 
that  situated  as  he  was  thus  to  be,  with  all  his 
quondam  wives  in  the  same  house,  he  could  by  no 
means  consider  his  virtue  as  fully  secured. 

Another  circumstance  from  which  the  mis- 
sionaries drew  some  important  benefits,  was  their 
knowledge  of  astronomy,  and  consequent  power 
of  predicting  eclipses.  These  were  truly  impor- 
tant phenomena  ;  for  as  it  is  universally  understood 
in  the  East,  that  a  liuge  dragon  is  then  endea. 


248  EASTERN  INDIA. 

vouring  to  devour  the  sun,  it  becomes  incumbent 
that  the  King  march  out  with  his  whole  army, 
that  all  the  artillery  be  fired,  every  drum,  trum- 
pet, and  bell  throughout  the  empire  sounded, 
and  that  even  the  kitchen-maids  should  rattle 
their  pans  and  kettles,  in  order  to  frighten  the 
monster  from  this  mischievous  attempt.  It  was 
therefore  a  pretty  serious  dilemma,  when  the  astro- 
logers having  predicted  an  eclipse  of  the  moon, 
the  friars  fixed  a  different  hour  and  day  for  it. 
The  governor  declared,  that  "  if  our  doctrine 
"  was  so  certain  and  infallible  in  these  hidden 
"  and  heavenly  things,  and  their*s  so  erroneous," 
their  religious  doctrines  were  likely  also  to  possess 
an  equal  pre-eminence.  Accordingly,  when  their 
prophecy  proved  true,  he  declared  "  there  were 
"  no  such  men  as  the  fathers  ;"  and  their  skill 
even  attracted  notice  at  court.  The  astrologers 
there  some  time  after  were  able  to  predict  an 
eclipse,  but  not  to  know  that  it  would  be  invisi- 
ble ;  disregarding  which,  the  king  led  out  his 
army  in  full  array  to  frighten  the  dragon  j  but 
was  much  disappointed,  and  his  esteem  for  the 
fathers  greatly  raised,  by  no  eclipse  appearing. 
They  had  therefore  liberty  to  preach  ;  and  the 
chief  obstacle  arose  from  the  unfortunate  and  so 
often  lamented  resemblance  between  their  own 
worship  and  that  of  the  natives.  The  latter  had 
processions,   crosses,   strings  of  beads,  begging 


COCHINCHINA BORRI.  SiQ 

friars,  and  convents  of  every  kind,  exactly  as  in  Ca- 
tholic Europe.  Our  author  protests,  in  despair, 
that  there  is  not  a  dress,  office,  or  ceremony  in 
the  church  of  Rome,  to  which  the  devil  has  not 
here  provided  some  counterpart.  Even  when  he 
began  inveighing  against  their  idols,  he  was 
answered,  that  these  were  the  images  of  departed 
great  men,  whom  they  worshipped  exactly  in  the 
same  principle  and  manner  as  the  Catholics  did 
the  images  of  the  apostles  and  martyrs. 

Our  author  vaunts  in  an  extraordinary  manner 
the  fertility  of  Cochinchina,  occasioned  by  the 
lut  or  inundation  which  takes  place  in  Septem- 
ber, and  is  so  complete,  that  their  sea  and  land 
"  seem  to  be  all  of  a  piece."  It  often  comes  on 
so  suddenly,  that  the  natives  are  imprisoned  in 
their  houses,  and  cattle  are  drowned,  when  they 
are  considered  the  property  of  the  first  that  can 
take  them.  There  is  thus  produced  the  greatest 
abundance  of  grain,  fruits,  and  cattle,  though 
they  have  no  dairy,  "  looking  on  it  as  a  sin  to 
"  milk  the  cows.**  He  mentions  as  peculiar  to 
this  country  the  edible  birds*  nests,  so  much 
valued  in  China  j  not  aware  that  they  are  pro- 
duced through  all  the  Indian  Archipelago.  The 
pride  of  animal  nature  is  here  the  elephant, 
which  is  stated  to  be  larger  than  any  where  else 
in  the  world,  and  double  that  of  India ;  a  fact 
partly,  at  least,  confirmed  by  Mr  Barrow.     They 


250  EASTERN  INDIA. 

carry  habitually  on  their  backs  a  coach  containing 
thirteen  persons,  with  which  they  often  cross 
broad  rivers  ;  and  our  author  could  not  see  with- 
out wonder  "  such  a  vast  lump  of  flesh  swimming 
"  under  such  a  weight.'*  He  has  seen  them 
launch  a  vessel,  and  pull  up  large  trees  as  we 
would  do  a  cabbage  or  a  lettuce.  Their  docility 
and  intelligence  are  also  wonderful,  the  nayre  or 
driver  laying  before  them  the  whole  plan  of  their 
journey,  when  the  elephant  performs  what  he  ex- 
pects fr"om  him  "  as  regularly  as  any  man  of  good 
**  sense  could  do.'* 

Scarcely  any  country  in  the  world  is  so  happy 
in  harbours  as  Cochinchina,  which  has  sixty  ex- 
cellent ones  in  a  coast  of  little  more  than  a  hun- 
dred leagues ;  the  two  best  in  the  bay  of  Turon. 
The  trade  is  chiefly  carried  on  by  vessels  from 
China  and  Japan,  resorting  to  a  fair  which  lasts 
for  four  months  in  the  year.  The  Cochinchinese 
manufacture  little  themselves,  and  are  curious  of 
foreign  commodities.  Till  lately  this  country  had 
been  a  province  of  Tonquin,  but  had  been  render- 
ed independent  by  the  grandfather  of  the  pre- 
sent King.  This  prince  could  levy  an  army  of 
80,000  men,  whom  he  had  trained  so  thoroughly 
to  the  use  of  fire-arms,  that  Europeans  could  not 
equal  them  in  firing  at  a  mark. 

The  Cochinchinese  have  the  same  outward 
forms  of  manners  and  behaviour  as  the  Chinese, 


COCHINCHINA BORItr.  2,51 

•^*  always  punctually  observing  all  niceties  ;'*  but 
they  are  at  bottom  a  very  different  people.  He 
describes  them  as  "  the  most  courteous  and  affable 
**  of  all  the  Eastern  nations  ;'*  and  Europeans, 
whom  the  others  "  naturally  abhor,"  are  treated 
by  them  with  the  greatest  kindness.  There  is 
also  much  love  and  concord  among  themselves  j 
and  "  it  would  be  looked  upon  as  a  most  vile  ac- 
"  tion,  if  one  man  eating  any  thing,  though  ever  so 
*'  little,  should  not  share  with  all  about  him,  giv- 
^*  ing  every  one  a  bit."  They  make  it  a  rule,  in- 
deed, to  give  whatever  any  one  asks  ;  in  return 
for  which,  they  expect  to  receive  whatever  they 
ask  themselves,  and  hold  the  refuser  ever  after  in 
utter  contempt ;  **  so  that  a  man  must  either 
"  hide  or  be  ready  to  give  what  he  shews."  They 
give  very  large  dinner  parties,  thirty  or  forty 
being  considered  very  small  ones  ;  and  our 
author  has  seen  two  thousand.  A  person  of  very 
moderate  fortune  is  expected  to  give  at  least  a 
hundred  dishes,  piled  over  the  table  in  frames  of 
cane,  and  containing  every  variety  of  meat,  fish, 
fruit,  and  fowl,  which  the  country  affords  :  "  If 
**  but  one  were  wanting,  they  would  not  count  it 
"  a  feast."  Our  author,  however,  had  but  little 
enjoyment  at  these  feasts,  "  nature  finding  a  very 
"  srreat  want  of  bread  and  wine."  The  former  is 
supplied  by  rice,  the  latter  by  a  spirit  distilled 
from  it }  while  between  meals  they  drink   hot 


252  EASTERN  INDIA. 

water,  with  the  root  of  the  tea  tree  infused  in  it. 
At  last  our  author  became  so  far  reconciled  to  this 
diet,  that  when  he  returned  to  France  he  "  covet- 
"  ed  nothing  but  the  rice  of  Cochinchina,  which 
"  I  thought  satisfied  me  more  than  any  other 
<*  thing." 

Without  touching  on  some  other  incidental 
narratives,  we  shall  proceed  to  the  account  of 
Cochinchina  given  by  one  of  the  most  eminent  of 
modern  travellers,  who  has  done  so  much  to  ex- 
tend European  knowledge  of  Eastern  Asia.  Mr 
Barrow  enjoyed  opportunities  of  making  obser- 
vations upon  this  country,  while  proceeding  to 
China  as  secretary  to  Lord  Macartney's  embassy. 
Sickness  having  spread  through  the  ship  which 
conveyed  its  members,  they  were  induced  to 
touch  at  the  bay  of  Turon  for  supplies  and  refresh- 
ment. On  their  arrival,  however,  Manuel  Duome, 
the  captain  of  a  Portuguese  vessel,  assured  them 
that  the  country  was  in  such  a  distracted  state, 
as  to  be  altogether  incapable  of  affording  them 
the  wished-for  supplies.  This  report  seemed  con- 
firmed by  the  aspect  of  the  first  native  whom  they 
met,  a  fisherman,  whose  aspect  was  so  haggard 
and  meagre,  and  his  dress  patched  of  so  many 
different  rags,  as  suggested  nothing  but  the  most 
extreme  misery.  However,  the  case  being  very 
urgent,  they  determined  to  wait  the  result  of  a 


CO  CHIN  CHIN  A BARROW.  25S 

few  days*  observation.  The  natives  at  first  pre- 
sented provisions  very  scantily  and  timidly,  but 
as  soon  as  they  understood  that  good  prices  were 
to  be  had  for  as  much  as  they  chose  to  bring,  the 
supply  increased  most  rapidly,  till  in  a  few  days 
a  plentiful  market  was  established.  Their  friend 
Manuel,  it  appeared,  to  serve  his  own  commercial 
jealousy,  had  made  an  entirely  false  report.  The 
natives  even  erected  on  the  shore  a  large  shed,  in 
which  they  prepared  daily  for  the  English  a  din- 
ner, consisting  of  several  hundred  small  bowls 
piled  in  rows  over  each  other.  These  were  filled 
with  various  preparations  of  meat,  fish,  and  vege- 
tables, eaten  with  chop  sticks,  without  either 
table  linen,  knives,  forks,  or  plates.  After  dinner 
they  usually  repaired  to  the  theatre,  where  the 
actors  performed  the  whole  day  without  intermis- 
sion, with  or  without  an  audience.  The  specta- 
tors paid  no  fee  at  admission,  but  were  expected 
to  testify  their  approbation  by  throwing  upon  the 
stage  a  due  number  of  small  copper  coins.  The 
dialogue,  unlike  the  Chinese,  was  light  and  comic, 
and  interspersed  with  much  music,  some  of  which 
was  soft  and  plaintive,  reminding  them  of  the 
Scotch  ;  but  in  general  the  main  object  was  the 
production  of  a  noise  altogether  stunning  and 
tremendous,  compared  to  which  the  gentle  airs 
played  by  the  English  were  judged  wholly  un- 
worthy of  notice.     This  part  of  Cochinchina  was 


254  EASTERN  INDIA. 

then  in  possession  of  a  rebel  chiefs  who  resided  at 
Hue,  about  forty  miles  in  the  interior.  They 
received  an  invitation  to  visit  him,  which,  from 
several  considerations,  they  did  not  judge  it  pru- 
dent to  accept,  and  confined  themselves  to  an  ex- 
change of  presents.  The  only  discourtesy  expe- 
rienced was  when  they  attempted  measurements 
of  different  points  on  the  coast ;  a  step  at  which 
the  most  marked  displeasure  w^as  expressed.  An 
English  gentleman  having  attempted  to  penetrate 
up  the  river,  was  taken  and  put  in  close  confine- 
ment, the  commanding  officer  at  the  place  amus- 
ing himself  with  brandishing  a  naked  scimitar 
over  his  head,  and  with  loading  his  legs  with  enor- 
mous wooden  and  iron  chains.  However,  every 
thing  else  being  done  to  forward  their  views,  they 
were  enabled,  in  less  than  a  month,  to  accom- 
plish all  their  views,  and  resume  the  prosecution 
of  their  voyage  to  China. 

Mr  Barrow  learned,  in  the  course  of  his  stay, 
that  extensive  revolutions  had  taken  place  in  this 
part  of  Asia.  In  l??'!'  Caung-shung,  the  reign- 
ing King,  became  the  victim  of  a  conspiracy 
formed  by  four  of  his  principal  subjects.  He  was 
dethroned,  and  supposed  to  be  put  to  death ; 
while  the  rebels  not  only  divided  Cochinchina 
among  themselves,  but  conquered  the  extensive 
neighbouring  kingdom  of  Tonquin.  Meantime 
the  young  Prince,  on  the  presumption  of  hi&  fa- 


COCHINCHINA BARROW.  Q55 

ther's  death,  was  crowned  King  by  a  few  follow- 
ers ;  and  passed  through  a  series  of  adventures, 
which  might  figure  in  the  pages  of  romance. 
After  some  vain  attempts  to  make  head  against 
the  usurper,  he  repaired  to  the  court  of  Siam, 
where  he  distinguished  himself  in  a  war  which 
was  waging  against  the  Birmans.  Incurring  the 
jealousy  of  the  King,  he  escaped  from  Siam,  and 
in  concert  with  a  Jesuit  missionary  of  the  name 
of  Adran,  came  over  to  France.  He  was  well  re- 
ceived there  ;  and  in  I787  a  very  remarkable  trea- 
ty was  concluded,  by  which,  in  return  for  being- 
restored  to  his  native  dominions,  the  prince  agreed 
not  only  to  grant  to  the  French  ample  commercial 
privileges,  but  to  cede  the  bay  of  Turon  and  the 
neighbouring  islands,  and  to  allow  them  to  levy 
and  discipline  troops  within  bis  territories.  The 
execution  of  this  treaty,  which  might  have  changed 
the  aspect  of  the  Indian  world,  was  first  retarded 
by  accidental  circumstances,  and  finally  prevent- 
ed by  the  breaking  out  of  the  French  revolution. 
The  Prince,  however,  with  the  few  adherents 
whom  he  could  collect,  determined  to  try  his  for- 
tune in  Cochinchina.  He  came  at  a  most  auspi- 
cious moment.  The  old  King  was  found  on  the 
solitary  island  of  Palowai,  where,  with  a  handful 
of  his  people,  he  had  subsisted  for  two  years  on 
herbs  and  roots.  The  usurpers  were  worn  out 
by  struggles  among  themselves,  and  the  people 

28 


256  EASTERN  INDIA. 

ready  to  flock  to  the  standard  of  their  lawful 
sovereign.  Accordingly  he  soon  assembled  an 
army;  and  at  the  time  of  Mr  Barrow's  visit  was 
master  of  all  Cambodia  and  Cochinchina,  except 
the  territory  upon  the  bay  of  Turon.  It  is  un- 
derstood that  he  has  since  included  it  within  his 
acquisitions,  and  that  he  has  even  extended  them 
to  Tonquin. 

The  reigning  monarch  of  Cochinchina  is  des- 
cribed as  almost  a  second  Peter.  In  the  course 
of  ten  years,  he  has  raised  his  navy  from  a  single 
vessel  to  twelve  hundred  of  various  descriptions. 
He  purchased  a  Portuguese  vessel  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  taking  it  to  pieces,  plank  by  plank, 
with  his  own  hands,  and  fitting  in  every  piece 
afresh,  till  a  new  one  was  constructed  on  the 
same  model.  He  has  been  equally  active  in  im- 
proving his  army,  which  amounts  now  to  113,000, 
of  which  upwards  of  40,000  are  disciplined  after 
the  European  system.  He  is  said  to  prefer  the 
name  of  general  to  that  of  sovereign.  He  knows 
the  greater  part  of  his  army  by  name,  talks  to  the 
soldiers  of  their  adventures  and  exploits,  and  in- 
quires particularly  about  their  wives  and  children. 
He  is  the  raain-spring  of  every  movement  which 
takes  place  within  his  kingdom ;  not  a  nail  is 
driven  in,  nor  a  gun  mounted,  without  consulting 
him.  Nor  has  he  overlooked  other  concenis  con- 
nected with  the  more  solid  interests  of  his  king- 


COCHINCHINA — BARROW.  257 

dom.  He  restored  the  culture  of  areca  and  betel, 
the  plantations  of  which  had  been  destroyed  by 
the  usurping  government ;  he  encouraged  that  of 
silk,  sugar,  and  other  commodities  for  the  produc- 
tion of  which  his  territories  are  well  fitted.  He 
has  done  much  also  in  building  bridges,  and  faci- 
litating all  kinds  of  commercial  intercourse. 

All  the  names  by  which  the  countries  on  this 
coast  are  designated  by  Europeans,  are  unknown 
to  the  natives,  except  that  of  Tonquin.  The  ap- 
pellation of  Anan  or  Anian  is  generally  applied 
to  them.  Cambodia  is  called  Donnai,  and  dif- 
ferent parts  of  Cochinchina  receive  the  appella- 
tions of  Chang  and  Hue.  All  these  territories 
were  once  included  in  the  Chinese  empire,  from 
which  they  were  severed  towards  the  end  of  the 
fourteenth  century.  The  external  forms  are  still 
Chinese ;  while  the  general  spirit  and  charac- 
ter of  the  nation  exhibits  rather  a  striking  con- 
trast. The  people  of  Cochinchina  have  thrown 
off  the  thick  shoes,  quilted  stockings,  and  stuffed 
petticoats,  with  which  the  Chinese  motions  are 
encumbered.  They  are  open,  familiar,  always 
gay  and  talking,  while  the  Chinese  are  reserved, 
always  grave,  and  wearing  the  appearance  of 
thought.  The  former  pay  little  regard,  either  in 
words  or  practice,  to  those  precepts  of  morality 
which  the  Chinese  ostentatiously  display  in  golden 
letters  on  all  their  streets  and  public  places.   Wo» 

yoL«  III.  R 


258  EASTERN  INDIA. 

men  are  not  confined,  and  are  entirely  exempted 
from  that  artificial  diminution  of  the  feet  which 
in  China  forms  an  effectual  bar  against  their  gad- 
ding abroad.     They  are  as  gay  and  unrestrained 
as  the  men ;  but  are  ungenerously  treated,  in  be- 
ing doomed  to  perform  all  those  labours  which 
require  the  greatest  bodily  strength.    Besides  the 
usual  domestic  tasks,  all  the  occupations  of  til- 
lage, carrying  the  goods  to  market,  the  steering  of 
boats,  and  even  the  repairing  of  the  cottages,  falls 
to  their  lot.   So  excessive,  indeed,  is  the  toil  they 
undergo,  that  the  natives  usually  remark  of  them, 
as  we  do  of  cats,  that  they  have  nine  lives,  and 
bear  a  great  deal  of  killing.   What  is  worse,  their 
virtue  is  openly  set  up  to  sale,  both  by  themselves 
and  their  friends  j  and   overtures  of  the  most 
shameless  kind  were  repeatedly  made,  even  by 
persons  of  distinction,  to  the  members  of  the 
embassy.      Hopes   were,   however,    entertained, 
that  in  the  parts  of  the  country  less  visited  by 
strangers,  more  decency  might  be  observed.    Mr 
Barrow  was  much  struck  with  that  promptitude 
in  asking  whatever  appeared  agreeable  to  them, 
which  was  remarked  by  the   missionaries  ;   nor 
does  he  notice,  like  them,  the  readiness  to  give 
what  is  asked.     In  failure  of  begging,  stealing 
was  usually  employed  with  very  little  hesitation  ; 
even  officers  of  government  required  a  good  deal 
of  attention  to  prevent  them  from  employing  this 
mode  of  gratifying  their  wishes. 


COCHINCHINA BARROW.  259 

The  religion  of  Cochinchina  appears  to  be  a 
modification  of  the  widely  extended  system  of 
Buddha  or  Fo,  though  its  ceremonies  are  car- 
ried on  with  less  pomp  and  formality  than  in 
China.  The  figures  of  Fo  were  often  placed  in 
cages  fastened  to  the  branches  of  the  banyan  tree, 
to  which  the  priest  ascended  by  a  ladder,  and 
presented  the  offerings.  Other  figures  are  kept 
in  little  caskets,  which  may  be  carried  even  in 
the  pocket.  Christianity  is  allowed  and  even  fa- 
voured by  the  present  King,  who  has  derived  be- 
nefit from  the  services  of  the  French  missionaries. 
All  other  religions  are  tolerated.  The  principle 
of  government  appears  to  be  the  same  as  China  j 
but  it  is  exercised  in  a  much  milder  manner,  the 
successive  pretenders  to  the  crown  having  con- 
tinual occasion  to  court  the  favour  of  the  people. 
Instead  of  the  cries  with  which  a  Chinese  village 
continually  echoed,  executed  by  the  application 
of  the  cangue  or  bamboo,  the  English  did  not 
witness  here  a  single  instance  of  legal  infliction. 

Mr  Barrow  is  strongly  of  opinion,  that  a  com- 
mercial establishment  on  the  coast  of  Cochinchina 
would  be  attended  with  considerable  advantage. 
This  people,  who  have  not  the  same  inveterate 
attachment  to  old  customs  as  the  Chinese,  might 
take  a  considerable  quantity  of  our  manufactures  ; 
in  return  for  which  they  would  give  rice,  sugar, 
pepper,  sea-slug,  and  other  gelatinous  substances, 


260  EASTERN  INDIA. 

which  are  in  constant  demand  at  the  markets  of 
Canton.  The  effect  would  be  the  same  as  if  we 
sent  our  commodities  directly  thither.  In  fact, 
Mr  Hastings,  in  1778>  made  arrangements  with  a 
mercantile  house  to  send  two  vessels  to  Cochin- 
china,  investing  a  member  of  the  firm  with  a 
demi-official  character.  The  Orientals,  however, 
pay  little  regard  to  the  character  of  merchant,  es- 
pecially as  connected  with  diplomatic  functions. 
The  expedition  called  at  several  ports,  and  even 
penetrated  to  Faifo,  the  capital,  but  without  be- 
ing able  to  find  confidence  anywhere,  and  at  last, 
being  drawn  into  actual  hostilities  with  the  ruling 
power  at  Hue,  narrowly  escaped  with  their  lives 
and  part  of  their  goods.  In  1804,  the  directors 
caused  another  mission  to  be  sent ;  but  the  per- 
son employed  knew  nothing  of  the  language,  and 
was  obliged  to  communicate  through  the  medium 
of  the  French  missionaries,  who  doubtless  caused 
every  thing  to  appear  in  the  most  unfavourable 
light  for  the  English.  The  consequence  was, 
that  the  King  received  them  in  a  very  cool  man- 
ner, and  allowed  it  plainly  to  appear,  that  the 
shorter  their  stay  was  made  it  would  be  the  more 
acceptable.  Mr  Barrow,  however,  is  of  opinion 
that  this  monarch  would  show  himself  by  no  means 
ill  inclined  to  the  English,  provided  a  royal  mis- 
sion were  sent,  composed  of  duly  informed  and 
(jualified  persons. 


CHAPTER  II. 

CHINA PORTUGUESE  AND  SPANISH  DISCOVERIES. 

First  Discovert/. — The  Andradas. — Thome  Fires. —  Venetian 
report. — Notices  from  Mexico. — The  Augustines. —  The  Fran- 
ciscans.— Ignatius. — Ricio. — Navarate. — Expulsion  of  the 
Missionaries. 

China  is  not  a  name  new  to  the  reader  of  the 
present  work.  This  celebrated  empire,  at  once 
the  most  civilized  and  most  distant  of  any  in  Asia, 
was  early  viewed  by  the  traveller  of  that  conti- 
nent as  the  grand  terminating  object  of  his  career. 
Under  the  name  of  Serica,  it  seems  to  have  form- 
ed the  main  and  ultimate  point  of  those  Greek 
and  Roman  caravans  which  traversed  anciently 
the  entire  breadth  of  central  Asia.  To  the  early 
modern  travellers,  we  have  seen  it,  under  the 
name  of  Cathay,  forming  an  object  equally  con- 
spicuous. The  Portuguese  navigators,  who  reach- 
ed it  across  the  Indian  seas,  recognized  it  under 
the  name  of  China,  by  which  alone  it  is  there 
known ;  but  some  time  elapsed  ere  Europeans 
became  fully  aware  that  this  China  was  the  same 
country  with  the  Cathay  of  Marco  Polo  and  the 
early  travellers. 


262  CHINA. 

The  Portuguese  at  Malacca  were  not  long  of 
receiving  tidings  respecting  the  existence  and 
greatness  of  this  empire.  In  August  1516,  Al- 
buquerque caused  Rafael  Perestrello  to  proceed 
to  Canton,  in  the  junk  of  a  native  merchant,  and 
collect  all  the  intelligence  in  his  power.  Peres- 
trello accomplished  his  voyage,  and  returned  to 
Malacca  in  the  following  June,  at  the  moment 
when  Fernando  Perez  d'Andrada,  with  a  squa- 
dron of  eight  vessels,  was  hesitating  whether  to 
set  out  for  Bengal  or  China.  The  tidings  given 
by  Perestrello  made  him  prefer  the  latter,  and 
departing  immediately,  he  found  himself,  on  the 
15th  August  1517,  in  the  road  of  Canton.  A 
large  Chinese  flotilla  made  its  appearance,  hover- 
ed closely  round  the  Portuguese,  and  even  dis- 
charged some  shots  over  their  heads.  Andrada, 
however,  continued  the  whole  day  beating  his 
trumpets,  and  making  signals  of  peace.  The 
Chinese  did  not  come  to  any  parley ;  but  he  sail- 
ed forward  without  opposition  to  the  island  of 
Beniaga  (called  by  us  Bankshall),  and  anchored  off 
the  port  of  Tamou,  which  we  have  greatly  changed 
to  Whampoa.  Here  he  found  Duarte  Coelho, 
who,  in  coming  out  of  the  river  of  Siam,  had  en- 
gaged a  large  fleet  of  Chinese  pirates,  and  being 
roughly  handled,  took  shelter  in  this  harbour.  He 
stated,  that  the  fleet  which  had  placed  itself  in  so- 
jealous  and  menacing  an  attitude,  had  no  abso- 


ANDRADA.  263 

lutely  hostile  design,  but  was  merely  sent  out  by 
way  of  guard  and  precaution.  By  his  advice, 
Andrada  sent  a  messenger  to  the  governor  of 
Canton,  stating  that  he  came  from  the  King  of 
Portugal,  with  the  most  peaceable  intentions,  and 
wishing  to  send  an  ambassador  to  the  Chinese 
emperor.  The  governor  replied,  that  he  was 
welcome,  and  would  be  supplied  with  every  thing 
he  wanted,  but  that  he  could  not  be  permitted 
to  proceed  farther,  without  the  permission  of  the 
Pio  of  Nanto  (Nanciam),  who  was  instructed  to 
watch  and  report  respecting  all  vessels  that  en- 
tered the  bay.  A  messenger  was  then  despatched 
to  the  Pio,  who  replied  in  the  most  polite  terms, 
but  at  the  same  time  could  do  nothing  without 
communicating  with  the  governor  of  Canton. 
The  Portuguese  commander  was  thus  tossed  be- 
tween these  two  officers,  and  after  repeated  mes- 
sages, saw  no  prospect  of  the  affair  coming  to  any 
positive  issue.  At  length,  losing  patience,  he  put 
his  flotilla  in  motion,  determined  to  sail  into  the 
harbour  of  Canton,  with  or  without  permission. 
His  purpose  was  frustrated  by  a  violent  storm, 
which  suddenly  arose  and  drove  him  back, 
with  his  vessels  considerably  damaged.  The 
Chinese  were  supposed  to  view  this  incident 
with  no  little  satisfaction,  and  even  to  anticipate 
with  pleasure  the  Portuguese  being  obliged  to  re- 
main through  the  winter,  when  they  hoped  to  be 


264  CHINA. 

able  to  treat  with  them  on  their  own  terms.  For 
this  reason,  boards,  planks,  and  every  thing  which 
could  serve  for  the  repair  of  the  vessels,  were 
carefully  withheld.  Fernando,  however,  by  ac- 
tively and  skilfully  using  the  superfluities  of  his 
own  vessels,  succeeded  in  putting  the  squadron 
soon  into  sailing  condition.  He  then  proceeded 
with  his  two  best  vessels  to  Nanto,  where,  after  a 
long  discussion  with  the  Pio,  he  wrung  out  from 
him  permission  to  enter  the  harbour  of  Canton, 
and  pilots  to  conduct  him  thither.  His  arrival 
there  somewhat  startled  the  Canton  authorities ; 
however,  upon  proper  explanation,  it  was  toler- 
ably acquiesced  in.  He  was  told,  however,  that 
the  three  governors,  who,  according  to  the  gra- 
dation of  their  rank,  were  called  Tutam,  Cantam, 
and  Chumpim,  being  then  absent,  no  audience 
could  take  place  till  their  return.  It  was  after- 
wards understood  that  this  absence  was  a  mere 
manoeuvre,  to  dazzle  the  Portuguese  by  the  pomp 
of  their  entry.  This  took  place  on  three  succes- 
sive days,  each  rising  above  the  other  by  the  dig- 
nity of  the  person,  and  the  splendour  of  the  cere- 
mony. The  river  could  not  be  seen  for  the  mul- 
titude of  boats  waving  with  silken  flags  of  various 
colours.  The  walls  of  the  city  also,  and  lofty 
masts  erected  within  it,  streamed  with  ensigns  of 
silk  so  large,  that  they  might  have  served  as  sails  to 
ships  of  war.    Andrada  was  tlien  invited  on  shore 


ANDRADA.  265 

to  an  audience,  but  chose  rather  to  send  Joannes 
Empole  his  factor,  with  as  splendid  a  retinue  as 
possible.  The  factor  then  stated,  that  they  came 
from  the  King  of  Portugal,  and  more  imme- 
diately from  Albuquerque  his  general,  who  learn- 
ing that  the  King  of  China  was  the  greatest  sove- 
reign in  all  the  East,  and  his  people  the  wisest 
and  most  prudent,  was  desirous  to  open  a  com- 
munication with  him,  and  had  therefore  brought 
an  ambassador,  with  letters  and  a  present.  The 
governors  expressed  pleasure  at  their  coming,  and 
requested  that  the  ambassador  might  come  on 
shore,  where  he  wonld  be  supplied  with  every 
thing,  and  might  wait  till  the  pleasure  of  the 
King  was  known  as  to  his  proceeding  to  the  capi- 
tal. This  ambassador  was  Thome  Pires,  who 
exercised  the  somewhat  humble  occupation  of  an 
apothecary,  but  who  is  said  to  have  possessed  an 
intelligence,  application,  and  address,  which  ad- 
mirably suited  him  for  the  high  office  with  which 
he  was  to  be  invested.  The  commander  found 
here  three  vessels  from  the  Lequio  (Loochoo) 
Islands,  and  would  have  proceeded  thither ;  but 
the  lateness  of  the  season  rendering  this  impos- 
sible, he  returned  to  Malacca. 

Fernando  d'Andrada  left  a  favourable  impres- 
sion, and  no  opposition  was  made  to  Portuguese 
merchants  coming  to  the  port  of  Tamou,  and  dis- 
charging their  cargoes.     In   1518,  his  brother, 


^66  CHINA. 

Simon  d'Andrada,  was  sent  with  another  squa- 
dron. vSimon,  it  is  admitted,  "  was  pompous  and 
"  glorious,  and  did  all  things  with  great  majesty." 
He  began  with  erecting  a  fortification  on  the 
island,  contrary  to  every  Chinese  regulation  ;  and 
in  front  of  it  he  raised  a  prison,  which  was  an- 
nounced as  destined  for  all  those  Chinese  who 
should  do  any  injury  to  the  Portuguese.  Several 
ships  having  come  in  from  Siam  and  Cambodia, 
Andrada  took  strong  measures  to  prevent  them 
from  receiving  any  cargo  till  his  vessel  was  first 
supplied.  There  existed,  it  seems,  such  a  right 
in  the  East  in  favour  of  the  first  comer  ;  but  the 
Chinese  disapproved  entirely  of  the  manner  in 
which  it  was  here  enforced.  But  the  wrong 
which  they  considered  most  deadly,  was  the  num- 
ber of  children,  belonging  even  to  persons  of  dis- 
tinction, whom  he  bought  as  slaves.  There  is  a  re- 
gular formula  in  China  for  selling  children.  The 
father  and  mother  go  to  the  judge,  whose  secretary 
writes  down  on  a  paper  their  names,  and  the  obli- 
gation under  which  they  come  to  deliver  up  the 
child  as  the  property  of  the  purchaser.  The 
father  then  puts  a  coarse  colouring  matter  on  the 
palm  of  his  hand,  and  impresses  it  on  the  paper, 
and  does  the  same  with  the  sole  of  his  right  foot, 
after  which  the  child  is  delivered  up,  and  the  mo- 
ney received.  The  Portuguese  were  not  aware, 
that  in  consequence  of  the  ready  market,  as  well 


SIMON  d'aNDRADA PIRES.  267 

as  concealment  which  they  afforded,  a  number  of 
the  slaves  brought  to  them  were  stolen,  and  were 
the  offspring  of  wealthy  parents ;  besides,  that 
the  poorest  viewed  in  a  very  different  light  their 
children  being  held  in  a  gentle  slavery  at  liome, 
and  being  sold  to  a  strange  and  foreign  people, 
by  whom,  it  was  currently  reported,  they  were 
immediately  roasted  and  eaten.  These  discon- 
tents grew  always  stronger  and  stronger,  and 
were  farther  heightened  on  seeing  the  Portuguese 
fleet  reinforced,  by  the  arrival  first  of  one,  and 
then  of  two  additional  vessels.  At  length  the 
Chinese  governor  determined  to  proceed  to  the 
last  extremity.  He  fitted  out  a  fleet  of  fifty 
vessels,  which  surrounded  and  attacked  the  Por- 
tuguese. By  the  advantage  of  skill  and  situation 
they  stood  out  for  some  time,  but  found  at  length 
that  they  could  not  long  maintain  their  ground 
against  such  fearful  odds.  Collecting,  therefore, 
themselves  and  their  most  valuable  effects  into 
the  three  best  ships,  they  made  a  vigorous  effort, 
cut  their  way  through,  and  returned  to  Malacca. 
The  result  was,  that  the  Portuguese  were  com- 
pletely excluded  from  all  the  ports  and  seas  of 
China. 

We  have  now  to  trace  the  career  of  the  ambas- 
sador Pires.  He  was  long  detained  at  Canton, 
in  consequence  of  the  excessive  caution  of  the 
Chinese  government,  which  sent  three  successive 


268  CHINA. 

messages,  making  the  most  minute  inquiry  into 
his  character  and  intentions.    Before  he  obtained 
permission  to  proceed,  Simon  d*Andrada  was  al- 
ready arrived,  though  he  had  not  yet  become  ex- 
tremely odious.     At  length  Pires  sailed  for  the 
capital  in  a  splendid  bark,  with  silken  flags,  and 
an  awning  also  of  silk  to  screen  him  from  the 
weather.      He   passed   the   range  of  mountains 
which  separate  northern  from  southern  China,  and 
in  four  months  arrived  at  Nanquin,  where  he  was 
ordered  to  attend  his  majesty  at  Pekin.     A  con- 
siderable time  then  elapsed  before  he   obtained 
any  notice,  the  King  being  employed  in  investi- 
gating and  punishing  a  conspiracy  set  on  foot  by 
one  of  his  relations.     At  length  he  sent  for  the 
letters,  which  were  three,  from  the  King  of  Por- 
tugal, from  Andrada,  and  from  the  governor  of 
Canton.    The  two  first  were  couched  in  the  usual 
terms  of  address  to  sovereign  princes ;  but  the 
translators,  not  accounting  these  duly  respectful, 
framed  other  letters  entirely  different,  better  cal- 
culated, as  they  thought,  for  the  perusal  of  their  im- 
perial master.    They  stated,  that  the  King  of  the 
Frangi  had  now  sent  this  ambassador  to  the  Son  of 
Heaven  and  Lord  of  the  World,  for  the  purpose 
of  acknowledging  himself  his  vassal,  and  solicit- 
ing his  seal,  which  is  affixed  in  sign  of  subjection 
to  every  writing  of  the  kings  tributary  to  China. 
The  letter  of  the  governor  of  Canton  was  then 


PIRES.  2C9 

read,  which  was  not  absokitely  hostile  to  the  Por- 
tuguese, the  grand  causes  of  dissension  not  hav- 
ing yet  arisen.  It  stated,  that  they  sought  per- 
mission to  establish  a  factory  at  Canton  ;  that 
they  had  taken  Malacca,  and  were  very  powerful 
in  the  Indian  seas  ;  and  finally,  described  them 
as  persons  of  very  lofty  pretensions,  and  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  satisfy.  The  tenor  of  these  let- 
ters, so  strangely  different,  threw  the  imperial 
court  into  the  greatest  perplexity ;  and  they 
began  to  suspect  that  the  whole  was  a  pretext, 
and  Fires  merely  a  spy.  About  the  same  time 
came  other  letters,  representing  the  Portuguese 
in  a  much  more  unfavourable  light ;  stating,  that 
they  had  driven  out  the  King  of  Bintam,  in  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  who  was  a  vassal  of  the  Em- 
peror, and  had  received  his  seal ;  that  they  were 
behaving  at  Canton  in  the  most  imperious  man- 
ner, and  were  sending  ships  to  survey  the  coast. 
Hereupon  Pires  was  refused  an  interview  ;  but 
farther  proceedings  were  suspended  by  the  Em- 
peror's illness  and  death.  His  successor,  having 
inquired  into  the  affair,  rejected  the  advice  given 
by  his  council  of  putting  to  death  Pires  as  a  spy, 
but  remanded  him  to  Canton,  to  be  there  treated 
as  farther  experience  and  inquiry  might  make 
him  appear  to  deserve.  When  Pires  arrived  at 
Canton,  open  war  had  ensued,  and  every  thing 
Portuguese  was  considered  as  hostile.     He  was 


270  CHINA. 

therefore  thrown  into  prison,  where  he  soon  after 
died. 

After  this  catastrophe,  rigorous  orders  were 
issued  that  not  a  Portuguese  vessel  should  be 
allowed  to  enter  the  harbours  of  China,  or  even 
to  approach  its  coasts.  A  number  of  years 
elapsed  ere  the  mutual  wants  of  commerce  led  to 
an  agreement,  by  which  they  were  allowed  to  land 
and  erect  tents  on  the  island  of  Sanciam.  About 
the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  they  obtained  a 
much  more  important  concession.  The  coast  of 
China  being  ravaged,  and  Canton  itself  blockaded 
by  a  very  formidable  pirate,  they  were  applied  to 
for  aid,  when  they  defeated  and  killed  the  pirate, 
and  took  Macao,  where  his  head-quarters  had 
been  established.  In  gratitude  for  so  important 
a  service,  the  Emperor  granted  them  the  valuable 
privilege  of  forming  an  establishment  upon  this 
island,  though  cooped  up  within  very  narrow 
limits.  i 

The  discovery  of  this  vast  and  opulent  empire 
could  not  fail  to  excite  a  strong  sensation  in  Eu- 
rope, and  to  give  rise  to  various  and  extravagant 
rumours.  The  Venetian  senate  felt  always  a  pe- 
culiar interest  relating  to  the  affairs  of  the  East. 
I  have  seen  a  manuscript  report  of  considerable 
length,  but  without  name  or  date,  made  to  them 
on  the  subject  of  China.    The  writer  begins  with 


VENETIAN  REPORT.  g^l 

long  details  from  Marco  Polo,  Haiton,  and  a 
"  Cavaliere  Inglese,"  whom  I  presume  to  be  Man- 
deville.  He  then  assures  their  excellencies,  that 
a  person  of  the  greatest  integrity,  who  liad  been 
many  years  in  all  parts  of  India,  never  heard  of 
such  a  city  as  Quinsai  in  China.  The  capital  of 
that  empire  was  Pacyn  (Pekin),  which  differed 
from  Quinsai  in  situation  and  many  other  parti- 
culars. About  S60  leagues  south  from  Pacyn, 
however,  was  Lanchi,  (the  Portuguese  name  for 
Nankin),  not  like  Quinsai  unless  in  its  lake,  but 
greater  and  more  stupendous.  It  was  described 
as  seated  upon  four  great  rivers,  along  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  it  extended  for  three  days'  jour- 
ney;  as  containing  1,800,000  houses  of  moderate 
height,  but  built  of  stone ;  as  surrounded  by 
many  most  delightful  enclosed  gardens ;  as  hav- 
ing the  surrounding  hills  cut  so  as  to  serve  for  a 
wall.  All  goods  from  China  to  other  countries, 
and  other  countries  to  it,  pass  through  Lanchi. 
The  whole  empire  is  represented  so  fertile  and 
populous  as  to  be  properly  one  great  city,  having 
for  its  walls  the  ocean  on  the  east,  the  mountains 
on  the  north,  and  the  rivers  on  the  west. 

Another  somewhat  curious  account  is  contain- 
ed in  an  English  pamphlet  of  a  few  pages,  trans- 
lated from  a  Spanish  original,  and  entitled,  "  The 
*'  strange  and  marvellous  newes  lately  come  from 


272  CHINA. 

*'  the  great  kingdom  of  Chyna,  which  adjoineth 
"  unto  the  East  India."  The  notice  is  mention- 
ed as  having  come  by  the  way  of  Mexico,  and  as 
not  generally  known,  but  *'  remaineth  among 
"  worshipful  personages."  He  says  "  a  credyble 
*'  person  dooth  declare,"  that  the  Spaniards,  from 
certain  islands  (the  Philippines),  had  sailed  40 
leagues  along  the  coast  of  China,  had  landed 
and  engaged  in  some  conflicts  with  the  natives. 
Their  ambassadors  soon  penetrated  to  a  large  city, 
40  leagues  inland,  surrounded  by  a  double  wall, 
and  governed  by  a  viceroy.  They  found  here 
"  many  doctors  and  lawiers,  which  weare  four 
"  cornered  caps  made  of  hair ;  other  licentiats 
"  who  use  round  bonetts  like  unto  Portugall 
"  priests ;  also  many  religious  persons  who  go 
"  with  shaven  heads,  having  one  locke  of  haire 
"  hanging  over  eche  eare."  During  their  whole 
stay  they  did  not  see  fifty  women,  and  remarked 
the  defective  feet  of  these  fair  ones,  oddly  assert- 
ing, that  "  when  they  are  borne  they  use  to  wrest 
"  one  of  their  legs,  whereof  they  ever  remain 
"  lame,  because  they  should  continually  kepe 
*'  their  houses."  He  mentions  also  the  long  nails 
used  by  the  men,  but  misses  probably  the  real 
cause,  when  he  describes  it  as  "  a  profitable  thing 
"  for  the  warres."  Specimens  of  Chinese  dress 
were  brought  to  Mexico,  consisting  of  many 
rich  pieces  of  cloth  of  gold,  silk,  and  purple. 


THE  AUGUSTINES.  273 

"  which  is  a  thing  marvailous  to  beholde.'*  The 
viceroy  of  Mexico  was  so  much  moved  by  these 
descriptions  and  specimens,  that  he  was  preparing 
an  expedition  of  a  thousand  men,  with  which  he 
expected  to  conquer  all  China ;  and  it  is  added, 
that  **  the  citizens  are  moved  with  desire  to  go 
"  thither  for  love  of  the  great  quantity  of  gold." 

We  have  had  repeated  occasion  to  observe  the 
ardent,  though  not  always  enlightened  zeal,  with 
which  the  Roman  Catholic  orders  sought  to  pro- 
pagate their  faith  throughout  the  East.  With 
this  disposition  it  was  not  likely  that  the  vast  and 
populous  empire  of  China  should  escape  their 
notice.  St  Fran9ois  Xavier,  indeed,  the  great 
apostle  of  the  Indies,  merely  touched  at  Canton 
on  his  way  to  Japan,  which  appeared  to  offer  a 
fairer  promise.  But  it  was  not  long  before  re- 
peated attempts  were  made,  from  the  side  of  the 
Philippines,  to  overcome  the  barrier  which  oppos- 
ed the  entrance  into  this  great  empire  of  every 
stranger,  more  especially  of  those  who  had  any 
innovation  to  introduce. 

The  coast  of  China  was  then  infested  by  a 
pirate  of  the  name  of  Limahon,  who  spread  de- 
vastation through  all  the  neighbouring  seas.  Hav- 
ing ventured,  however,  on  the  coast  of  the  Philip- 
pines, he  encountered  a  Spanish  squadron,  by 
which  he  was  defeated,  driven  up  a  river,  and  so 

VOL.  III.  s 


274-  CHINA. 

closely  blockaded,  that  his  escape  was  considered 
impossible.     In  this  crisis  a  Chinese  squadron  ar- 
rived in  chase  of  the  pirate,  whose  commanders, 
Omoncon  and  Sinsai,  were  so  highly  gratified  by 
finding  the  extremity  to  which  the  Spaniards  had 
reduced  him,  that  they  assured  the  governor  he 
might  depend  upon  obtaining  almost  any  favour 
from  the  monarch  of  China  which  he  chose  to  ask. 
It  was  determined  to  improve  this  for  the  attain- 
ment of  their  favourite  object ;  and  the  Chinese 
officers  readily  agreed  to  convey  into  China  two 
friars  of  the  order  of  St  Augustin,  who  had  lately 
arrived  from  Mexico,  with  hopes  of  their  being 
permitted  to  remain  and  to  teach  their  religious 
system.    Taking  with  them  two  soldiers,  they  de- 
parted from  Manilla  in  June  157-5,  and  soon  ar- 
rived at  the  port  of  Tansuso  in  the  province  of 
Fokien.      They  found   the  shore    covered  with 
a  great  body  of  men  drawn  up  in  military  array, 
which  they  understood  to  be  in  honour  of  them. 
They  were  not,  however,  permitted  to  land  without 
a  written  order  from  the  governor ;  but  they  were 
then  handsomely  accommodated  and  supplied  with 
every  thing  at  the  expense  of  the  Chinese  govern- 
ment.    The  Insuanto,  or  provincial  governor  at 
Chincheu,  was  understood  to  have  sent  a  list  of 
directions,  in  which  every  accommodation  to  be 
afforded,  and  even  every  dish  to  be  put  on  their 
tables,  was  minutely  specified.     After  three  days 
they  set  out  for  Chincheu.  In  this  journey  they  saw 


THE  AUGUSTINES.  275 

with  surprise  not  a  foot  of  land  uncultivated,  and 
town  following  town  so  closely,  that  it  appeared 
all  one  town.  When  they  asked  the  name  of  places 
containing  10  or  12,000  people,  they  were  told 
that  these  were  not  worth  naming,  and  that  they 
should  wait  till  they  came  to  towns  of  some  con- 
sequence. In  entering  Chincheu,  they  passed 
over  one  of  the  finest  bridges  in  the  world,  800 
paces  in  length,  and  composed  of  stones  22  feet 
long  by  o  broad.  The  river  was  so  covered  with 
vessels  and  barks,  that  the  water  could  not  be  seen, 
and  the  streets,  though  three  times  as  broad  as 
usual  in  Spain,  could  not  contain  the  multitudes 
that  flocked  to  see  the  Castilians  pass.  They 
were  still  more  delighted  next  day  in  going 
through  the  most  splendid  of  the  streets  to  the 
governor's  palace.  The  edifices  and  triumphal 
arches  were  so  superb,  the  shops  filled  with  such 
precious  commodities,  and  the  multitude  of  people 
so  incredible,  that  they  remained  astonished,  and 
as  it  were  out  of  themselves.  Force  was  required 
to  effect  their  entrance  through  the  crowd  into 
the  palace,  and  they  were  then  ushered  into  a 
most  magnificent  hall.  Here  they  received  the 
unwelcome  notice,  that  an  audience  of  the  gover- 
nor was  not  to  be  obtained,  unless  they  should 
place  themselves  on  their  knees,  and  remain  fix- 
ed in  that  attitude  during  the  whole  interview, 
hereupon  a  pretty  warm  discussion  arose,  the 


276  CHINA. 

soldiers  insisting  that  this  was  altogether  a  base 
and  unworthy  submission ;  but  they  were  over- 
ruled by  the  friars,   unwilling  that  any  scruple 
of  this  kind  should  frustrate  their  mission.     On 
these   terms   the  interview  passed  in  the  most 
amicable  manner,  and  mutual  presents  were  ex- 
changed.    The  Insuanto  afterwards  sent  for  the 
two  soldiers  by  themselves,  and  put  many  ques- 
tions respecting  the  affair  of  Limahon,  in  the 
course  of  which  it  transpired  that  the  Chinese 
officer  had  given  the  most  false  and  vain-glorious 
account  of  the  transaction,  claiming  for  himself 
the  merit  of  all  that  had  been  done  by  the  Spa- 
niards. The  Insuanto,  however,  seemed  rather  dis- 
posed to  believe  them  than  him,  and  he  soon  after 
invited  the  whole  party  to  a  magnificent  dinner. 
Before  each  of  the  friars  were  placed  seven  tables, 
and  before  each  of  the  soldiers  five,  respect  being 
shewn  by  the  number  of  tables.     One  was  cover- 
ed with  gilt  cannisters,  in  which  sugar  and  con- 
fectionary were  formed  into  the  shapes  of  castles, 
dogs,  bulls,  elephants,  and  various  other  objects. 
The  other  tables  contained  dishes  of  fowl,  eggs, 
bacon,  beef,  and  meat  of  every  kind,  with  fruits 
and  confections,  so  that,  upon  the  whole,  each 
person  had  upwards  of  fifty  dishes.    The  services 
were  arranged  in  a  circle,  in  the  interior  of  which 
plays,  music,  and  games  of  various  kinds  were 
performing  during  the   whole  time  of  dinner, 


THE  AUGUSTINES.  277 

which  lasted  four  hours.     At  the  close  of  the  en- 
tertainment the  Insuanto  sent  for  them,  and  ad- 
vised them   to  go  to  the  viceroy  at   Auchieo, 
(Outcheon),  who  could  alone  give  a  definitive 
answer  to  their  demands.   The  friars  readily  con- 
sented, and  lost  no  time  in  setting  out.    In  a  few 
days  they  arrived  at  Aucliieo,  and  had  travelled 
through  the  suburbs  for  about  half  a  league,  when 
a  message  came  from  the  viceroy,  advising  them 
to  delay  their  entrance  till  next  morning.     The 
advice  was  equivalent  to  a  command ;  and  he  ac- 
companied it  with  a  supper  so  plentiful,  that  it 
might  have  sufficed  a  hundred  men,  not  only  for 
that  night's  supper,  but  for  next  day's  dinner. 
Next  morning  they  travelled  an  hour  and  a  half 
through  the  suburbs ;  and  had  they  not  been  told, 
they  would  never  have  doubted  them  to  be  the 
city.   They  passed  a  great  river  by  three  bridges, 
so  lofty  that  large  ships  could  pass  under  them. 
At  length  they  reached  the  entrance  of  Auchieo, 
where  a  large  body  of  nobles  were  drawn  up 
to  receive  them,  with  a  crowd  of  spectators  so 
immense,  that  it  seemed  to  them  as  if  the  whole 
world  was   assembled.     They  were    soon   after 
introduced  in  great  pomp  to  the  viceroy,  in  whose 
presence  they  kneeled  without  hesitation.     He 
asked  them  if  they  had  any  mission  from  the 
King;  and  on  being  answered  in  the  negative, 
dismissed  them  very  abruptly,   saying  that  he 


278  CHINA. 

would  consider  the  subject,  but  that,  from  the 
distance  of  the  emperor,  it  would  be  some  time 
before  his  pleasure  could  be  known.  He  gave 
them  a  dinner,  however,  in  the  same  style  as  that 
at  Chincheu,  but  more  splendid,  and  at  which  a 
regular  comedy  was  performed.  A  considerable 
time  elapsed  without  any  decisive  answer ;  dur- 
ing which  the  missionaries  employed  themselves 
in  going  about  Auchieo,  observing  the  city  and 
people,  and  purchasing  books.  These  proceed- 
ings, however,  roused  the  jealousy  of  the  viceroy, 
who  directed  that  they  should  remain  in  their 
own  house,  and  ordered  every  one  to  be  beaten 
who  carried  any  thing  to  them  to  sell.  They 
learned  also  that  Omoncon  and  Sinsai  had  quarrel- 
led, and  were  giving  reports  of  the  affairs  of  Li- 
mahon  in  which  each  contradicted  the  other,  and 
both  the  missionaries,  so  that  the  viceroy  was  be- 
ginning to  doubt  if  there  was  any  truth  at  all  in 
the  matter.  In  short,  a  meeting  of  the  provin- 
cial council  was  held,  in  which  it  was  determined 
that  the  friars  should  quit  China  without  delay. 
This  was  announced  to  them  in  a  manner  which 
admitted  of  no  dispute,  but  at  the  same  time  with 
great  courtesy.  They  received  an  entertainment 
more  splendid  than  any  former  one,  and  were 
escorted  back  to  the  coast  with  great  state  and 
attention.  They  arrived  at  Manilla  on  the  28th 
October  I577. 


THE  FRANCISCANS.  279 

The  event  of  this  mission  afforded  little  hope 
of  any  license  being  ever  obtained  to  reside  or 
preach  in  China.  Yet  two  years  after,  a  body  of 
Franciscans  determined,  at  every  hazard,  to  find 
their  way  into  an  empire,  where  they  understood 
that  there  were  such  an  infinite  number  of  souls 
in  the  chains  of  Satan.  They  fitted  out  a  small 
vessel,  in  which  four  friars  embarked,  with  three 
soldiers  and  one  native  Chinese,  whose  services 
they  had  engaged  at  Manilla.  On  approaching 
the  coast  of  China,  they  met  three  vessels,  whom 
they  begged  to  assist  in  their  design  ;  but  when 
those  on  board  heard  that  they  were  attempting 
to  enter  China  without  license,  they  hoisted  all 
their  sails,  declaring  it  was  as  much  as  any  one*s 
life  was  worth  to  be  seen  in  their  company.  They 
found  their  way  into  the  Bay  of  Canton,  where 
they  saw,  as  it  were,  a  city  of  ships,  all  of  which, 
however,  fled  from  them  as  from  a  pestilence. 
They  therefore  moved  their  vessel  into  the  middle 
of  the  river  ;  and  by  taking  down  the  sails,  and 
every  thing  which  could  render  them  conspi- 
cuous, succeeded  miraculously,  as  they  conceived, 
in  reaching  the  shore  without  attracting  notice. 
They  even  landed,  and  began  to  walk  upon  the 
pier ;  but  their  very  extraordinary  costume  at 
length  drew  the  attention  of  the  multitude.  A 
crowd  collected  round  them,  confounded  with 
which  they  entered  the  city,  without  being  ob* 


280  CHJNA. 

served  by  the  guards,  who,  however,  being  in- 
formed of  this  oversight,  which  made  them  liable 
to  severe  punishment,  hurried  after  them,  and 
rudely  pushed  them  out.  A  Chinese  Christian, 
who  happened  to  be  in  the  crowd,  then  came  up, 
and  told  them  they  must  return  to  the  bark  in  the 
first  instance,  but  he  soon  came  to  them  with  an 
order  to  land,  and  to  appear  before  a  magistrate. 
They  found  this  person  seated  in  such  pomp,  and 
so  richly  dressed,  that  had  they  not  been  told, 
they  would  have  believed  him  to  be  the  governor 
of  Canton.  A  body  of  men  attended,  with  large 
canes,  ready  to  execute  prompt  sentence  upon  all 
culprits.  Being  then  required  to  state  their  mo- 
tive for  landing,  they  replied,  they  had  braved 
every  danger  in  order  to  reach  China,  on  a  mis- 
sion fraught  with  the  most  important  benefits  to 
that  country,  the  nature  of  which  they  fully  ex- 
plained, and  trusted  he  would  not  obstruct  them 
in  the  fulfilment  of  it.  Their  Chinese  friend, 
who  acted  as  interpreter,  judged  this  a  very  inex- 
pedient reply,  and  preferred  to  deliver  one  wholly 
of  his  own  invention.  He  stated,  that  they  were 
holy  men  like  the  Bonzes  ;  that  they  had  not  the 
remotest  intention  of  entering  China,  but  in  sail- 
ing from  the  island  of  Luzon  to  that  of  Hilocos, 
had  been  shipwrecked,  and  had  saved  themselves 
in  this  little  bark,  when  they  were  obliged  to  com- 
mit it  to  the  guidance  of  the  waves,  which  had 


THE  FRANCISCANS.  281 

driven  them  into  the  Bay  of  Canton.  The  friars 
did  not  learn  till  long  after  the  metamorphosis 
through  which  their  speech  had  passed  ;  and  they 
had  reason  to  believe,  that  but  for  it  they  would 
have  been  either  thrown  into  prison,  or  put  imme- 
diately on  shipboard,  with  private  instructions  to 
the  captain  to  throw  them  overboard.  The  ma- 
gistrate, however,  was  molHfied  by  the  answer, 
and  having  examined  over  and  over  the  contents 
of  the  bark,  found  them  to  correspond  with  the 
statement.  The  view  of  the  relics,  the  images, 
and  particularly  of  a  black  polished  stone,  shining 
like  glass,  which  they  used  as  an  altar,  pleased 
him  and  put  him  in  good  humour.  The  deci- 
sion of  the  case  was  delayed,  and  they  underwent 
repeated  examinations,  without  any  final  resolu- 
tion being  formicd.  In  the  mean  time,  they  were 
obliged  to  obtain  their  subsistence  by  begging, 
which  being  contrary  to  the  law  of  China,  increas- 
ed the  jealousy  of  the  authorities.  However,  the 
Viceroy  at  Auchieo  hearing  that  strangers  in  a 
strange  garb  were  arrived  at  Canton,  was  moved 
with  curiosity  to  see  them,  and  they  set  out  for 
that  city.  They  were  equally  struck  as  their 
brethren  by  the  vast  population  upon  the  road, 
so  that  they  thought  it  should  be  called,  not  the 
kingdom,  but  the  city  of  China.  They  were  sur- 
prised by  a  singular  mode  of  ploughing,  with  one 
buffalo,  and  the  ploughman  riding  upon  it.     On 


282  CHINA. 

their  arrival  at  Auchieo,  the  fathers  were  con- 
ducted to  the  palace,  and  ushered  in  at  the  gate, 
amid  a  tremendous  report  of  artillery,  drums, 
trumpets,  and  various  musical  instruments.  They 
found  the  viceroy  in  the  seat  of  justice,  compos- 
ed of  ivory  and  gold,  while  on  the  opposite  wall 
was  painted  the  figure  of  a  huge  dragon,  vomit- 
ing fire.  A  guard  of  two  thousand  soldiers  at- 
tended, which  they  were  surprised  to  find  all 
Tartars,  without  one  native  Chinese.  While  they 
were  in  waiting  the  viceroy  passed  sentence  upon 
fifty  culprits,  who  were  punished  on  the  spot,  by 
being  cruelly  beat  with  bamboos.  The  friars 
were  then  admitted  to  an  audience,  and  the 
viceroy  viewed  with  admiration  their  books, 
images,  and  above  all,  their  black  stone.  The 
principal  father,  seeing  his  kind  and  courteous 
humour,  began  a  speech,  stating  their  most  an- 
xious wish  to  be  allowed  to  settle  in  China,  to 
build  a  monastery,  and  to  teach  their  religion  ; 
and  assuring  him  of  their  conducting  themselves 
in  the  most  inoffensive  manner.  This  oration 
was  committed  to  the  interpreter,  who  deemed  it 
expedient  to  give  it  quite  a  different  turn.  He 
gave  a  doleful  account  of  their  shipwreck,  and 
being  cast  by  hard  necessity  upon  the  coast  of 
China,  stated  their  most  anxious  wish  to  leave  it, 
but  lamented,  that  for  two  or  three  months  the 
season   would   not   admit   of  their  sailing  with 


THE  FRANCISCANS.  283 

safety.  He  besought,  therefore,  that  they  might 
be  allowed  protection  and  a  house  during  that 
interval.  The  viceroy  replied  most  graciously, 
that  their  demand  was  perfectly  reasonable,  and 
should  be  granted  in  its  fullest  extent.  This 
being  reported,  and  understood  as  applied  to  their 
own  request,  filled  the  friars  with  the  most  joyful 
surprise  ;  since  whatever  hopes  they  might  enter- 
tain of  ultimate  success,  they  never  dreamt  of  so 
prompt  and  full  a  consent.  They  considered 
themselves  now  at  the  summit  of  their  wishes, 
and  were  only  annoyed  by  the  vehement  desire 
with  which  an  officer  of  high  influence  at  court 
was  seized  to  become  possessed  of  their  black 
stone.  The  black  stone  was  the  pride  of  the 
mission  ;  and  they  produced  in  its  stead  a  Mary 
Magdalene,  made  of  feathers,  of  which  they  soli- 
cited his  acceptance.  This  new  object  excited 
admiration,  without  prejudice  to  the  first ;  so  that 
they  were  at  last  obliged  to  part  both  with  the 
black  stone  and  the  feathered  penitent.  Luckily 
the  officer  was  seized  with  a  dread  of  discovery, 
and  returned  both. 

The  missionaries  now  found  that  arrangements 
had  been  made  for  their  proceeding  to  Canton  ; 
a  measure  which  they  did  not  fully  understand, 
but  they  were  as  willing  to  preach  there  as  else- 
where.    The  governor  of  Canton  received  them 


284»  CHINA. 

with  the  most  smiling  courtesy,  said  that  they 
appeared  indeed  to  be  favourites  of  the  vice- 
roy, and  that  it  should  be  his  care  to  fulfil  all 
their  wishes.  They  v/ere  shewn  to  a  handsome 
house,  and  all  their  wants  supplied ;  but  were 
surprised  when  they  found  themselves  not  allow- 
ed to  go  out,  and  when  day  after  day  elapsed 
without  any  opportunity  being  afforded  of  carry- 
ing their  views  into  execution.  They  were  thus 
led  to  make  inquiries,  in  the  course  of  which  they 
learned,  with  the  deepest  consternation,  what  was 
the  real  nature  of  the  promise  made  by  the  vice- 
roy. They  now  overwhelmed  the  interpreter 
with  the  bitterest  reproaches.  The  interpreter, 
however,  protested  that  he  had  acted  a  most  me- 
ritorious part,  and  had  saved  their  lives,  since 
had  he  delivered  the  petition  they  were  so  rash 
as  to  confide  to  him,  they  would  have  been 
ordered  to  sea  immediately,  and  at  such  a  season 
must  have  certainly  perished.  They  at  first 
thought  of  denouncing  him,  and  making  a  new 
attempt  to  obtain  their  object  ;  but  no  one 
would  undertake  to  deliver  such  a  message,  and 
all  agreed  that  it  would  be  equally  fruitless  and 
dangerous  ;  so  that  at  last  they  found  they  had 
nothing  left  but  to  accept  the  ample  provision 
made  by  the  Chinese  government  for  their  return 
to  Luzon. 


IGNATIUS.  285 

A  still  more  unfavourable  result  awaited  the 
next  mission,  composed  of  St  Ignatius,  with  six 
other  friars,  who  set  out  in  like  manner  without 
any  provision  or  arrangement.  On  their  arrival 
off  the  coast  of  China,  they  were  surrounded  by 
a  number  of  barks,  which  began  and  continued  a 
heavy  fire,  without  any  regard  to  their  quiet  and 
submissive  deportment.  At  length  the  Chinese 
came  on  board,  and  presented  their  naked  swords 
to  their  breasts.  The  fathers  remaining  entirely 
passive,  were  put  under  a  guard,  and  carried  to 
the  nearest  port.  They  underwent  repeated  exa- 
minations, both  in  the  ship  and  in  the  courts  of 
justice,  when  they  were  treated  with  such  vio- 
lence and  harshness,  and  such  furious  menaces 
thrown  out,  that  they  fully  expected  every  visita- 
tion to  be  the  last.  In  the  courts  of  justice  they 
saw  constantly  the  unhappy  culprits  beat  furiously 
with  bamboos,  and  heard  their  shrieks ;  only  an 
earnest,  they  thought,  of  what  was  to  befal  them- 
selves. Two  of  the  friars,  who  had  been  the 
loudest  in  professing  their  desire  to  suffer  in  the 
cause  of  religion,  were  seized  with  such  a  panic, 
that  one  of  them  was  some  days  delirious,  and  the 
other  died  at  Canton  of  fear.  A  soldier,  who  had 
amassed  a  considerable  sum,  threw  it  all  into  the 
sea,  that  he  might  die  in  the  order  of  St  Francis, 
which  requires  complete  poverty.  They  were 
conveyed  to  Sauchieofou,  and  then  to  Uchieofu 


286  .   cmifA. 

(Outcheou)  ;  but  no  ray  of  hope  ever  shone  on 
this  unfortunate  mission.  They  were  treated 
every-where  with  equal  severity,  and  at  length 
conveyed  to  Canton,  where  they  fully  expected 
the  final  catastrophe.  The  influence  of  the  go- 
vernor of  Macao,  however,  was  there  so  power- 
fully exerted,  that  he  obtained  their  lives,  and 
permission  to  leave  China,  to  which  they  never 
seem  to  have  attempted  a  return. 

These  successive  disappointments  did  not 
quench  the  zeal  of  the  Catholic  fathers.  The 
task  was  now  undertaken  by  Ricio  and  Trigan- 
Tio,  of  the  order  of  the  Jesuits,  a  body  possessed 
of  greater  experience  and  address  in  such  enter- 
prises. Establishing  themselves  at  Macao,  they 
began  to  solicit,  not  permission  to  preach  a  new 
religion,  the  granting  of  which  they  knew  would 
be  foreign  to  every  Chinese  maxim,  but  merely  a 
small  spot  on  which  to  erect,  for  their  own  wor- 
ship, a  small  house  to  "  the  Lord  of  Heaven.'* 
They  had  not  much  promise  of  success,  however, 
till  they  promulgated  the  promise  of  a  consider- 
able sum  to  any  one  who  should  obtain  this  favour 
for  them.  Then  a  common  soldier,  by  some 
means  not  stated,  or  easily  to  be  conjectured, 
procured  from  the  governor  of  Sciauquin  (Chaot- 
cheou)  the  boon  solicited.  They  were  a  good  deal 
|)uzzled  to  raise  the  sum  offered  rather  in  despe- 


Ricio.  287 

ration  than  with  any  idea  of  success ;  however, 
by  begging  and  borrowing,  they  at  last  paid  it. 
They  set  out,  therefore,  in  September  1583, 
under  the  guidance  of  the  soldier,  whom  they 
found  really  in  a  condition  to  perform  his  engage- 
ment. The  governor  received  them  courteously, 
and  allowed  them  the  choice  of  any  spot  which 
they  might  find  convenient.  They  chose  one  in 
the  suburbs,  by  the  river  side,  where  they  began 
to  erect  a  tower,  and  to  fill  it  with  their  images 
and  ornaments.  These  the  people  flocked  in 
crowds  to  view,  and  were  much  struck  with  ad- 
miration, both  of  their  novelty  and  beauty.  There 
was  particularly  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  to  which 
the  Chinese  testified  their  respect  in  their  national 
mode,  by  prostrating  themselves  three  times,  and 
beating  their  foreheads  against  the  ground.  A 
scandal  having  arisen,  however,  that  they  should 
"  worship  a  woman,"  the  missionaries  were  ob- 
liged to  provide  another  image,  not  liable  to  that 
objection.  The  governor,  an  intelligent  man, 
was  caught  by  Ricio's  skill  in  the  mathematical 
sciences.  His  geography,  above  all,  astonished 
the  Chinese,  whose  maps  China  alone  almost  en- 
tirely filled  up,  while  all  the  other  countries  of 
which  they  had  heard  scarcely  equalled  one  of  its 
provinces.  They  were  much  amazed  to  see  the  ex- 
tent of  the  globe,  and  "  themselves  streightened 
**  in  an  eastern  corner  of  it  j"  but  Ricio  found  it 


288  CHINA. 

requisite  to  place  China  at  least  in  the  centrcv 
He  presented  the  governor  with  a  clock,  but  it 
was  soon  brought  back,  no  one  knowing  how  to 
keep  it  in  order.  When  the  missionary  also  be- 
gan to  construct  globes  and  sun-dials,  he  was  uni- 
versally pronounced  to  be  the  greatest  astrologer 
in  the  universe.  The  governor  then  having  ob- 
tained some  considerable  promotion,  conceived 
that  it  could  be  owing  solely  to  their  incantations. 
He  treated  them  now  with  the  highest  respect, 
calling  them  **  the  flower  of  divine  men,"  and 
"  the  holy  nation  of  the  West.'* 

Notwithstanding  these  favourable  dispositions, 
as  soon  as  the  novelty  was  over,  the  national 
aversion  against  strangers  began  to  operate.  They 
were  accused  as  spies,  as  decoying  away  children, 
and  as  guilty  of  various  malversations.  A  false 
convert  represented  them  as  possessing  the  art 
of  making  silver,  on  the  promise  of  his  disclos- 
ing which,  the  Chinese  supplied  him  with  funds 
to  purchase  a  wife  ;  and  the  disappointment  of 
this  expectation,  with  the  loss  of  their  money, 
heightened  their  irritation  against  the  friars.  At 
length  the  governor  was  so  harassed  with  com- 
plaints and  law-suits,  that,  sensible  of  their  inno- 
cence, he  assured  them  of  a  residence  in  any 
other  place,  but  intreated  they  would  leave  their 
present  one.  They  were  at  the  same  time  assur- 
ed, that  to  have  a  full  view  of  Chinese  splendour 


Ricio.  289 

and  polity,  they  ought  to  pierce  into  "  the  very 
**  pith  and  marrow  of  the  kingdom."  After 
touching  at  several  cities,  they  at  length  reached 
Nanquin,  which  appeared  to  answer  this  descrip- 
tion better  than  any  other,  and  where  they  form- 
ed an  establishment,  which  subsisted  for  a  num- 
ber of  years.  They  had  now  experienced  the 
impolicy  of  passing  for  Bonzes,  or  holy  men,  a 
character  held  in  very  low  estimation  among 
the  Chinese.  They  put  on  the  habit  of  the 
learned  class,  the  character  which  in  China  leads 
alone  to  high  consideration,  and  which  they  were 
here  well  qualified  to  support.  At  Nanquin  they 
drew  the  notice  of  the  President  of  the  Temples, 
who  was  so  much  pleased  with  their  information, 
that  he  often  visited,  and  allowed  them  to  walk 
about  at  full  liberty.  They  now  applied  them- 
selves to  make  *'  the  mathematics  baits  to  the 
"  Gospel."  The  Chinese  seem  to  have  felt  very 
particular  interest  and  curiosity  with  regard  to 
European  science.  The  Mandarins  of  Nanquin 
now  learned,  for  the  first  time,  that  the  earth  was 
round,  which  they  had  always  supposed  to  be 
square,  and  that  there  were  men  beneath  their 
feet.  The  fixed  positions  of  the  stars,  the  wan- 
dering of  the  planets,  the  elevation  and  de- 
pression of  the  pole,  and  consequent  change  of 
seasons  ;  the  construction  of  spheres  and  sun- 
dials, were  all  new  to  them.     They  never  till 

VOL.  III.  T 


290  CHINA. 

then  accounted  the  air  an  element,  believing  it  ta 
be  nothing,  because  they  did  not  see  it.  In  short, 
a  great  doctor  declared  himself  ashamed,  and 
said,  "  You  may  think  of  us  as  we  do  of  Tartars 
"  and  barbarians,  for  you  begin  where  we  end.** 
The  Chinese  were  quite  astonished  to  see  that 
the  world  contained  other  books  than  their  own, 
and  even  handsomer  ones  as  to  outward  appear- 
ance. In  short,  the  missionaries  observe,  that 
though  their  own  knowledge  was  very  inferior  to 
what  was  possessed  in  Europe,  it  was  sufficient  to 
render  them  almost  miracles  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Chinese. 

Although  the  Jesuits  were  thus  well  received 
and  entertained  in  China,  they  admit,  that  be- 
yond a  general  admiration  excited  by  the  image 
of  the  Virgin,  their  progress  in  conversion  was 
very  small.  It  is  true,  the  Bonzes,  or  priests, 
instead  of  being  held  in  the  same  veneration  as 
the  Bramins  of  India,  are,  *'  in  the  common  con- 
"  ceit  of  all  men,  most  base  and  contempti- 
**  ble.'*  Indeed  they  seem  to  merit  this  character, 
since,  instead  of  giving  any  useful  instruction, 
the  constant  tenor  of  their  exhortations  is  to 
**  give  them  somewhat.**  Although  the  people 
too  had  numerous  idols,  they  did  not  testify  any 
deep  veneration  for  them  ;  and  being  of  a  rea- 
sonable and  judicious  turn  of  mind,  "  we  easily 
**  make  them  say  that  they  are  naught.'*     Even 


RICIO.  ^91 

when  the  zeal  of  the  fathers  impelled  them  to 
seize  these  idols  and  dash  them  to  pieces,  they 
were  easily  pacified.  This  indifference,  however, 
was  unfavourable  to  them  in  another  point  of 
view*  All  the  other  oriental  nations  had  deep 
religious  impressions  of  some  kind  or  other ;  but 
here  the  Chinese  differed  from  them  all,  "  not 
"  knowing  nor  worshipping  neither  false  nor  true 
**  God,  nor  never  thinking  what  shall  follow  after 
"  this  life.'*  The  learned,  in  particular,  from 
whom  better  might  have  been  expected,  valued 
themselves  on  their  indifference  to  every  thing 
connected  with  this  subject.  Their  respect  was 
exclusively  devoted  to  the  works  of  their  ancient 
sages,  *'  whom  they  reverence  little  less  than  if 
"  they  were  their  God  ;"  and  the  missionaries 
being  found  unacquainted  with  their  writings, 
were  held  exceedingly  unlearned  persons.  To 
this  being  added  the  limitation  in  the  number  of 
wives,  the  consequence  was,  that  all  the  Manda- 
rins and  literati  shewed  an  uniform  hostility  to 
the  introduction  of  this  new  faith.  There  was 
one,  indeed,  whom  they  considered  as  already  a 
convert,  and  in  the  height  of  their  confidence  ex- 
hibited to  him  an  image  of  the  crucifixion.  The 
Mandarin,  however,  was  moved  with  the  deep- 
est indignation,  declaring  that  all  the  rumours 
against  them,  to  which  he  had  hitherto  lent  a 
deaf  ear,  were  now  fully  confirmed.    This  frightful 


^92  CHINA. 

image,  he  conceived,  could  only  be  a  charm  to 
kill  the  King.  The  missionaries  laboured  in 
vain  to  give  him  sounder  views ;  he  still  declar- 
ed, that  till  *'  that  crucified  man"  was  commit- 
ted to  the  flames,  they  had  no  favour  to  expect 
from  him. 

The  Jesuits  having  thus  gradually  insinuated 
themselves  into  the  kingdom,   were  enabled  to 
maintain    themselves    for   a   considerable   time. 
They  were  even  allowed  to  build  churches,  and 
to  make  the  limited  number  of  converts  whom 
their  preaching  could  influence.     Four  of  them, 
the  principal  of  whom  was  Adam  Schaal,  called 
sometimes  Scaliger,  were  entrusted  with  the  ma- 
nagement of  the  observatory  at  Peking,  and  of 
the  imperial  calendar.     An  essential  function  of 
this  body  was,  to  determine,  upon  astronomical 
datUy  the  lucky  or  unlucky  days  for  holding  all 
the  great  court  ceremonies.     A  son  of  the  Em- 
peror having  died,  it  was  referred  to  Schaal  to 
decide  the  day  on  which  the  funeral  should  take 
place.     He  fixed  upon  one  ;  but  not  long  after, 
the  Emperor's  mother,    and  then  the   Emperor 
himself,  died.     No  cause  could  be  suspected,  ex- 
cept that  an  unfortunate  day  must  have  been 
named   by  Schaal   for   the   ceremony ;  and  the 
discontents  which  had  been  brooding  against  the 
Jesuits  rose  now  to  a  violent  height.     The  ques- 


NAVARETE.  293 

tion  being  referred  to  the  tribunal  of  Rites,  they 
decided  that  they  should  be  summoned  from  all 
parts  of  the  kingdom  to  Peking,  for  the  purpose  of 
being  put  to  death.  Navarete,  to  whom  we  are 
indebted  for  the  history  of  this  disastrous  pe- 
riod, happened  to  be  at  Fonganhyen,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Fokien,  when  the  order  arrived.  He 
was  immediately  arrested,  and  conveyed  to  Hang- 
chou-fou,  whence  he  was  conveyed  up  the  great 
canal  to  the  capital.  He  found  here  twenty-five 
friars,  brought  in  from  the  provinces,  besides 
four  resident  in  Peking.  They  were  kept  for  a 
considerable  time  in  uncertainty  as  to  their  fate  j 
and  indeed  there  appears  to  have  been  consider- 
able vacillation  in  the  imperial  councils.  At 
length  the  sentence  of  death  was  remitted,  and  it 
was  determined  only  to  banish  them  into  a  deso- 
late region  of  Tartary.  The  Emperor  softened 
even  this,  and  merely  directed  that  they  should 
be  sent  to  Canton,  to  be  forwarded  thence  to  the 
Portuguese  settlement  of  Macao.  The  four  who 
were  at  Peking  were  detained,  in  consideration  of 
having  eaten  the  King's  bread  and  salt,  but  were 
thrown  into  prison,  where  Scliaal  soon  after  died. 
Navarete,  with  the  others,  had  a  most  hard  jour- 
ney of  six  months,  during  whicii,  the  winter 
being  severe,  they  suffered  the  most  intense  cold, 
from  which  no  means  of  shelter  were  afforded. 
Their  first  reception  at  Canton  was  very  inhos- 


29i  CHINA. 

pitable ;  but  soon  after  a  despatch  arrived  from 
the  Emperor,  announcing  that  his  views  had 
taken  a  more  favourable  turn.  The  missionaries 
were  then  well  treated,  and  Navarete  found  his 
way  in  safety  to  Macao. 


CHAPTER  III. 

CHINA — p:mbassies  and  missions. 

The  Dutch — Nieuhof.—  The    French Lccomte,   S^c— Their 

favour  at  court. — Expulsion. — Russian   Embassies. — Isbrand 
Ides. — Lange  and  Bell. 

China,  so  closely  shut  against  travellers  attract- 
ed by  curiosity  and  commerce,  has  been  accessi- 
ble only  by  embassy.  Jealous  as  the  court  is  of 
the  entrance  of  foreigners,  yet  when  it  can  an- 
nounce to  its  subjects,  that  the  representatives  of 
a  great  potentate  are  coming  from  afar,  bearing 
tribute  and  homage  to  the  Son  of  Heaven,  and 
the  Ruler  of  Mankind,  they  do  not  usually  deny 
this  gratification  to  their  own  vanity.  They  even, 
according  to  the  custom  which  the  early  travellers 
found  established  among  the  successors  of  Zingis, 
defray  all  the  expenses  of  each  mission,  from  the 
moment  that  it  sets  foot  in  the  Chinese  territory. 
This  is  done,  too,  not  in  the  scanty  manner  de- 
plored by  Carpini,  but  with  the  greatest  pomp 
and  plenty,  so  that  the  expense  incurred  probably 
exceeds  in  all  cases  the  value  of  the  presents, 
€ven  without  deducting  those  which  his  Chinese 


296  CHINA. 

majesty  gives  in  return.  The  ambassadors,  on 
their  way  to  court,  proceed  by  a  regular  and 
established  route,  which  includes,  indeed,  the 
richest  cities  in  the  empire.  It  is  probably  wish- 
ed that  they  should  be  dazzled  with  the  splen- 
dour of  these  objects ;  but  they  are  carefully 
watched,  cut  off  from  all  communication  with  the 
people,  and  studiously  prevented  from  seeing 
more  than  the  mere  surface  of  things.  They 
usually,  therefore,  behold  a  grand  and  splendid, 
but  little  varied  scene.  He,  says  Du  Halde,  who 
has  seen  one  Chinese  city,  may  form  an  idea  of 
all.  Little  occurred  to  vary  the  different  parts  of 
the  same  journey,  and  still  less  to  diversify  one 
journey  from  another.  The  chief  details  of  this 
grand  route  will  be  introduced  under  the  head  of 
Lord  Macartney's  embassy.  In  regard  to  the 
others,  we  shall  content  ourselves  with  exhibiting 
a  general  view  of  their  destination  and  fortune. 

The  Dutch,  who  succeeded  the  Portuguese  in 
the  dominion  of  the  eastern  seas,  were  still  more 
bent  upon  every  thing  which  could  lead  to  gain. 
They  were  not  long  of  attempting  to  open  a 
trade  with  China  ;  but  whenever  any  of  their 
vessels  approached  the  shore,  they  were  surround- 
ed with  clouds  of  junks,  who  prevented  them 
from  landing,  trading,  or  speaking  with  any  one. 
If  they  asked  leave  to  trade,  there  was  an  express 
order  from  the  Emperor  against  it ;  and  if  they 


THE  DUTCH.  297 

asked  that  a  request  to  that  effect  should  be 
preferred  to  the  governor  or  sovereign,  it  would 
cost  any  one  his  life,  or  at  least  his  place,  to 
convey  such  a  message.  At  length  some  con- 
ferences took  place  with  the  Mandarins,  of  whom 
the  Dutch  remark,  "  These  are  the  gravest  gen- 
**  try  in  the  world ;  they  always  appear  with  a 
"  more  composed  air  than  the  ancient  Stoics." 
A  meeting,  however,  was  arranged  between  an 
officer  of  distinction  and  Coen,  the  Dutch  com- 
mander. The  Mandarin  sat  the  whole  day  im- 
moveable in  a  large  hall,  without  saying  one 
word  on  the  subject  of  the  meeting.  His  object 
was  understood  to  be,  to  make  the  opposite  party 
speak  first,  that  he  might  sound  his  intentions. 
However,  Dutch  patience  and  gravity  were  his 
match.  Coen  was  equally  silent ;  and  the  inter- 
view broke  up,  without  a  word  of  business  on 
either  side.  These  conferences  not  promising  to 
bring  the'affair  to  a  speedy  termination,  the  Dutch 
determined  to  proceed  to  action.  They  took  pos- 
session of  the  Piscadores,  some  small  islands  near 
the  coast  of  Fokien,  and  having  begun  a  fort, 
seized  a  number  of  Chinese  junks,  whose  crews 
they  compelled  to  labour  at  its  construction.  Hos- 
tilities now  began,  when  the  Chinese  were  so  in- 
veterate, that  they  refused  all  exchange  of  pri- 
soners, though  the  Dutch  once  offered  eighteen 
for  one ;  but  they  declared  that  they  would  not 


298  CHINA. 

accept  a  thousand  for  one.  However,  finding 
it  difficult  to  make  any  impression  on  the  Dutch 
naval  force,  they  endeavoured  by  negociation  to 
induce  them  to  remove  to  Formosa ;  and  when 
this  proved  ineffectual,  collected  at  length  such 
an  immense  host  of  junks,  that  the  Dutch,  after 
considerable  loss,  were  obliged  to  accept  the  pro- 
posed terms.  They  then  erected  a  fort  at  Tay- 
wan,  in  Formosa,  whence,  however,  they  could 
only  effect  an  occasional  and  precarious  trade 
with  the  Chinese  coast,  and  from  whence  they 
were  driven  in  1061. 

This  commencement  of  the  intercourse  be- 
tween the  two  nations  was  far  from  conciliatory  ; 
and  the  Dutch,  desirous  to  send  an  embassy  to 
the  Chinese  court,  for  some  time  in  vain  solicited 
permission  to  do  so  ;  but  on  the  conquest  of 
China  by  the  Montchew  Tartars,  obtained  the 
consent  of  the  first  prince  of  that  dynasty.  They 
made  not  a  very  happy  choice  of  Goyer  and 
Keyser,  two  merchants  ;  a  profession  little  reve- 
renced in  the  oriental  courts.  These  were  ac- 
companied by  twelve  subordinate  individuals,  one 
of  whom,  NiEUHOFF,  has  written  a  good  account 
of  the  embassy.  They  proceeded  by  the  same 
route  that  the  embassy  of  Lord  Amherst  return- 
ed. Travelling  by  water  to  Nanyong-fou,  on  the 
frontier  of  Quangtung,  they  crossed  that  ridge  of 
mountains,  the  loftiest  in  all  China,  which  here 


NIEUHOFF.  299 

runs  across  the  empire.  They  were  astonished  at 
the  vast  height  of  many  of  the  peaks,  and  the 
rugged  and  precipitous  rocks  into  which  the  sides 
were  broken.  They  then  descended  the  Kan- 
kiang,  viewed  the  romantic  scenery  of  the  Poyang 
lake,  and  the  majestic  cities  with  which  it  is  bor- 
dered ;  then  proceeding  along  the  great  river 
Yang-tse-kiang,  arrived  at  Nankin.  Being  ad- 
mitted to  wait  upon  the  three  governors,  tliey  had 
a  full  opportunity  of  viewing  the  most  splendid 
of  the  Chinese  cities.  Its  temples,  towers,  tri- 
umphal arches,  and  other  edifices,  surpass  those 
of  any  other  in  the  empire.  The  ordinary  houses 
are  very  mean,  having  only  one  storey,  and  one 
room  to  eat  and  sleep  in,  and  a  small  square 
hole  covered  with  reeds  for  a  window.  They 
had  an  opportunity  of  observing  and  delineating 
the  porcelain  tower,  the  pride  of  Chinese  archi- 
tecture ;  a  huge  pagoda,  nine  stories  high,  glazed 
all  over,  and  painted  with  various  colours,  having 
at  the  top  a  large  pine  apple  of  solid  gold.  All 
its  galleries  are  hung  with  bells,  which  sound  as 
they  are  moved  by  the  wind. 

From  Nankin  the  embassy  proceeded  along  the 
great  canal,  and  on  the  17th  July  1656  arrived 
at  Peking.  They  were  soon  waited  upon  by  se- 
veral Mandarins,  who,  after  welcoming  them,  and 
learning  the  nature  of  the  presents,  began  a  train 
of  \ery  strict  inquiry,  what  sort  of  people  and 


300  CHINA. 

nation  they  were.  They  had  considered  the  Dutch, 
it  appears,  as  having  no  home  or  possession  but  in 
the  sea,  nor  could  they,  without  much  difficulty, 
vindicate  themselves  as  really  having  an  abode 
upon  Terra  Firma,  Then  the  Chinese  could  not 
form  the  least  idea  what  a  commonwealth  was ; 
so  that  it  became  necessary  to  state  that  their 
mission  was  from  the  Prince  of  Orange.  They 
were  desired  to  say  what  relation  they  bore  to 
that  prince,  it  being  usual  in  the  East  to  send 
members  of  the  royal  family  as  ambassadors. 
They  were  then  asked,  what  office  they  held  un- 
der him  ?  how  many  men  they  commanded  ?  with 
other  questions  tending  to  throw  light  on  their 
personal  dignity,  the  result  of  which,  in  an  eastern 
court,  could  not  be  very  satisfactory.  After  all, 
they  underwent  a  long  examination  before  the 
council,  at  which  Scaliger  or  Schaal,  the  Jesuit, 
was  present.  This  person  it  seems  asserted,  that 
their  country  belonged  properly  to  Spain,  which 
was  still  the  rightful  possessor  ;  however,  the 
chancellor  did  not  choose  to  insert  this  in  his  re- 
port. After  putting  all  imaginable  questions,  and 
examining  the  presents,  they  dismissed  the  am- 
bassadors. The  emperor  then  issued  a  rescript  in 
their  favour,  and,  after  a  delay  occasioned  by 
the  death  of  his  youngest  brother,  they  were  ad- 
mitted to  an  audience.  There  were  introduced 
at  the  same  time  the  Kalmuk  ambassador,  dressecj 


NIEUHOFF.  301 

in  a  coat  of  sheep  skin  dyed  crimson,  his  arms 
naked,  a  horse's  tail  rising  from  the  crown 
of  his  head,  and  on  his  legs  such  enormous 
boots  that  he  could  scarcely  walk  ;  one  from  the 
Mogul,  in  a  blue  coat  embroidered  all  over  with 
gold ;  and  one  from  the  Lama,  resembling  a  Ro- 
man Catholic,  with  a  hat  like  a  cardinal's,  and  a 
string  of  beads  at  his  side.  The  Emperor  appear- 
ing, all  did  obeisance  according  to  the  grand  ce- 
remonial, striking  the  ground  nine  times  with 
their  foreheads.  The  Dutch  never  hesitated, 
having  been  doubtless  instructed  to  scruple  at 
nothing  from  which  profit  was  likely  to  accrue. 
No  words  were  addressed  to  them  by  the  emperor, 
and  they  were  even  so  far  in  the  back  ground, 
that  they  did  not  distinctly  see  him.  A  feast 
was  then  spread  before  them,  and  they  were 
invited  to  carry  off  what  was  left  ;  of  which 
the  Tartars  gladly  availed  themselves,  stuffing 
their  pockets  and  drawers  with  roast  meat,  the 
juice  of  which  was  seen  dripping  as  they  went 
along. 

In  a  few  days  the  ambassadors  received  the  Em- 
peror's answer,  which  was  to  the  following  tenor. 
He  expressed  his  high  esteem  for  the  Dutch,  and 
his  gratitude  to  Messrs  Goyer  and  Keyser  for 
coming  ten  thousand  miles  to  visit  him.  His 
heart,  therefore,  greatly  inclined  unto  them  ;  and 
he  hoped  the  greatest  benefit  might  arise  to  his 


302  CHINA. 

subjects  from  the  trade  which  they  proposed  to 
open.  Being  impressed,  however,  with  the  most 
tender  anxiety  for  their  safety  in  navigating  these 
boisterous  seas,  he  desired  that  they  might  not 
come  oftener  than  once  in  eight  years,  nor  with 
more  than  a  hundred  men. — This  most  unfavour- 
able answer  being  final,  they  were  obliged  to  de- 
part with  this  sole  result  of  so  distant  a  voyage, 
and  of  ten  thousand  pounds,  which  they  calculate 
to  have  been  expended  in  the  journey  and  pre- 
sents. 

The  issue  of  this  embassy,  prepared  with  such 
cost  and  diligence,  appeared  so  discouraging,  that 
the  Dutch  government  did  not  for  many  years 
renew  any  similar  attempt.  About  ten  years  after, 
however,  their  hopes  of  finding  favour  with  the 
Chinese  court  revived,  in  consequence  of  their 
vessels  having  assisted  in  the  reduction  of  Korin- 
ga,  a  great  pirate,  who  had  set  at  defiance  the 
power  of  the  Chinese  empire.  They  sent  first  a 
mission  to  the  viceroy  of  Fokien  ;  but  that  officer 
replied,  that  he  would  do  all  in  his  power  to  fa- 
vour them,  but  that  he  could  not  allow  a  ves- 
sel to  enter  his  port  without  express  permission 
from  the  Emperor.  In  I667,  therefore,  ano- 
ther splendid  and  costly  embassy  was  fitted  out 
under  *'  the  Lord  Van  Hoorn."  This  ambassa- 
dor landed  in  Fokien,  and  proceeded  by  Hang- 


FRENCH  MISSION.  303 

chou-fou  to  Peking.  Here  he  went  through  the 
usual  routine  of  audience  and  presentation,  at 
the  end  of  which  he  received  merely  a  sealed  let- 
ter, the  contents  of  which  could  not  be  known 
till  it  was  opened  by  his  masters  at  Batavia.  Its 
tenor  is  not  stated  in  the  narrative ;  but  we  be- 
lieve that  though  it  put  an  end  to  all  commercial 
dealings  with  Fokien,  it  allowed  trade  with  Can- 
ton, in  the  terms  which  have  since  been  attached 
to  all  European  intercourse  with  China. 

The  religious,  political,  and  scientific  embassy 
which  Louis  XIV  sent  into  Siam  in  1684,  had 
instructions  to  penetrate  if  possible  into  China,  a 
still  more  splendid,  though  more  arduous  theatre. 
In  the  course  of  a  year*s  residence  at  the  court 
of  Siam,they  formed  some  connexions  with  Ver- 
biest,  the  Portuguese  missionary  at  Peking ;  and 
when,  at  the  end  of  that  period,  Tachard  depart- 
ed for  France,  Fontaney,  Gerbillon,  de  Visdelon, 
and  Bouvet,  set  sail  for  Macao.  A  leak  in  the 
vessel  induced  them  to  disembark  on  the  coast  of 
Cambodia,  where  they  set  out  with  the  view  of 
penetrating  by  land  to  Canton.  They  soon  lost 
their  way,  and  were  entangled  in  trackless  woods, 
where  there  was  not  to  be  found  a  particle  of 
food,  nor  any  living  thing,  except  tigers,  ser- 
pents, and  musquitoes.  After  wandering  for  a 
fortnight,  and  being  reduced  to  the  most  miser- 


30-^  CHINA. 

able  condition,  they  happily  lighted  upon  a  small 
village,  the  inhabitants  of  which  charitably  recon- 
ducted them,  more  dead  than  alive,  to  their  ves- 
sel. They  were  too  happy  to  find  their  way  back 
to  Siam,  where  some  time  was  necessary  to  refit 
their  bodies,  before  they  ventured  on  a  second 
voyage.  They  now  persuaded  Lecomte  to  ac- 
company them,  and  all  five,  in  June  I687,  set  out 
in  a  Chinese  junk  for  Ning-po.  Here  they  suf- 
fered much  from  the  superstitious  habits  of  the 
Chinese  sailors.  As  no  savoury  food  was  allowed 
to  be  eaten  till  it  had  first  been  offered  to  a  little 
black  idol,  they  were  thus  virtually  interdicted 
from  every  thing  better  than  plain  boiled  rice. 
They  saw  the  sailors  worshipping  the  very  com- 
pass by  which  they  steered,  and  even  offering 
meat  to  it.  When  the  sea  was  rough,  they  threw 
in  little  paper  boats,  hoping  thus  to  amuse  the 
waves,  and  prevent  them  from  seriously  attacking 
the  vessel.  Once  a  large  one  was  constructed, 
wherein  were  traced,  not  only  every  part  of  the 
ship,  but  even  the  figures  of  all  the  passengers. 
When  the  storm  became  violent,  they  burned 
feathers,  hoping  by  the  noisome  stench  to  drive 
away  the  demon  by  whom  the  storm  was  raised. 
Our  friars  suffered  continual  fear,  in  sailing  amid 
the  perilous  rocks  and  desert  islands  which  bor- 
der every  part  of  the  coast  of  China.  On  ap- 
proaching  Ning-po,  they  were  thrust  into  the 


FRENCH  MISSIONARIES.  305 

hold,  which  was  shut  down  upon  them,  lest  they 
shouhl  be  espied  by  any  jealous  observer.  They 
were  thus  almost  suffocated  with  the  heat  and 
close  air,  till  the  captain  procured  from  a  Manda- 
rin an  order  to  bring  them  before  him.  They 
found  him  seated,  with  a  grave  and  severe  coun- 
tenance, his  executioners  attending  with  rods, 
like  Roman  lictors,  to  chastise  all  who  were  given 
into  their  hands.  The  friars  endeavoured  to  pro- 
pitiate him,  by  stating  their  connexion  with  Fa- 
ther Verbiest,  who  was  then  in  favour  at  court. 
In  the  course  of  two  or  three  interviews,  the  dis- 
play of  their  images  and  mathematical  instru- 
ments put  the  Mandarin  in  good  humour,  and 
induced  him  to  grant  them  lodgings  in  the 
suburbs.  The  viceroy,  however,  on  receiving  in- 
formation of  the  affair,  sent  down  a  sharp  rebuke 
to  the  Mandarin  for  such  indulgence,  at  the  sama 
time  transmitting  to  Peking  a  most  unfavourable 
report,  with  a  recommendation  of  the  prompt  ex- 
pulsion of  those  strangers  from  the  empire.  This 
report  was  highly  approved  by  the  Lipu  tribunal, 
who  drew  out  an  order  to  that  effect  for  the  em- 
peror's signature.  Had  this  been  affixed,  they 
anticipated  the  most  doleful  consequences,  as  they 
would  have  then  been  thrust  back  on  shipboard, 
and  the  captain,  thus  put  into  the  very  worst  hu- 
mour, would  probably  have  vented  it  by  throwing 
them  overboard.     A^erbiest,  however,  seeing  this 

VOL.  III.  u 


300  CHINA. 

distress  of  brother  Jesuits,  thongh  of  a  different 
nation,  repaired  to  the  Emperor,  and  pleaded 
strongly  in  their  favour.  He  urged,  in  particular, 
the  benefits  which  mathematics  and  astronomy 
might  derive  from  their  skill ;  and  these  being 
objects  for  which  the  Emperor  was  inspired  with 
a  species  of  passion,  the  argument  prevailed,  and 
orders  were  sent,  that  the  missionaries  should  not 
only  be  allowed  to  remain  in  China,  but  should 
be  immediately  sent  forward  to  Peking. 

The  fathers  departed  from  Ningpo  on  the  27th 
November,  and  passing  through  Hangtcheoufou, 
Soutcheoufou,  and  along  the  great  canal,  arrived 
at  Peking  in  February  1688.  To  their  grief,  they 
found  their  friend  Verbiest  dead  ;  but  they  were 
received  by  Father  Grimaldi,  and  found  easy  ac- 
cess to  court ;  a  great  change  in  which  had  taken 
place  since  the  accession  of  the  Emperor  Kanghi. 
We  have  already  noticed  the  general  expulsion  of 
the  Portuguese  missionaries,  when  the  few  who 
were  allowed  to  remain  at  Peking  were  thrown 
into  close  confinement.  The  new  Emperor,  how- 
ever, then  very  young,  was  of  a  penetrating  judg- 
ment, and  particularly  attached  to  scientific  in- 
quiries. One  of  the  most  important  parts  of 
Chinese  state  policy,  consists  in  the  composition 
of  the  imperial  calendar,  prepared  by  the  tribunal 
of  astronomy,  and  exhibiting  for  every  day  the 
places  of  all  the  planets,  and  that  of  the  sun  i» 


FRENCH  MISSIONARIES.  807 

the  zodiac.  It  is  presented  with  great  pomp  to  all 
the  members  of  the  royal  family,  and  to  the  offi- 
cers of  state,  who  receive  it  on  their  knees.  This 
work,  indeed,  is  of  indispensable  use  to  every 
Chinese,  affording  the  materials  from  which  he 
calculates  the  lucky  hour  and  minute  for  sowing, 
planting,  shearing  his  sheep,  cutting  his  hair,  and 
all  the  necessary  functions  of  life.  The  Chinese 
and  Arabian  astronomers  having  waited  upon  Kan- 
ghi  with  the  calendar  which  they  had  prepared, 
that  prince  had  the  sagacity  to  see  that  there  was 
something  wrong,  without  being  able  to  discover 
what.  After  some  perplexity,  he  bethought  him- 
self of  the  European  priests,  and  ordered  that  the 
nine  chains  with  which  they  were  loaded  should 
be  taken  off,  and  that  they  should  be  brought  to 
the  palace.  On  being  shewn  the  calendar,  they 
declared  that  it  was  erroneous,  and  committed  no 
less  a  blunder  than  that  of  throwing  thirteen 
months  into  the  following  year.  The  Emperor 
hereupon  ordered  a  meeting  of  the  Mandarins  of 
the  first  class,  and  the  members  of  the  high  tri- 
bunals, to  deliberate  on  the  subject.  An  assem- 
blage took  place,  such  as  had  never  been  held  on 
any  astronomical  question ;  and  one  would  rather 
have  supposed,  that  the  very  existence  of  the  em- 
pire had  been  at  stake.  Most  of  the  members 
professing  total  ignorance  of  astronomy,  it  was 
referred  to  a  few  who  were  supposed  to  possess 


308  CHINA. 

the  requisite  skill.  The  Jesuits  then  exhibited 
their  processes,  which  satisfied  all  the  impartial 
examiners ;  though  a  few  still  exclaimed,  that  the 
empire  was  ruined  if  this  important  concern  of 
state  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  foreigners.  A 
great  majority,  however,  gave  a  decided  verdict 
in  favour  of  the  Jesuits.  Yet  it  appeared  still 
shocking  to  the  imperial  council  to  acknowledge 
so  gross  an  error  as  that  of  a  month  in  a  calendar 
already  completed  and  circulated  through  the 
empire.  They  entreated  Verbiest  to  contrive,  if 
possible,  some  means  of  throwing  a  veil  over  this 
one  blunder.  Verbiest  replied,  that  he  could 
not  alter  the  heavens ;  and  a  proclamation  was 
issued,  directing  all  loyal  subjects  not  to  use  this 
intercalary  month  ;  to  the  great  perplexity  of  the 
whole  empire,  who  could  not  conceive  what  had 
become  of  so  large  a  portion  of  time,  thus  arbi- 
trarily lopt  off. 

The  missionaries  were  now  placed  at  the  head 
of  the  tribunal  of  astronomy,  and  had  the  sole 
direction  of  the  calendar.  The  French,  being 
even  superior  in  scientific  knowledge,  experienced 
at  court  a  still  more  cordial  welcome.  Bouvet 
and  Gerbillon  were  attached  to  the  person  of 
the  monarch,  and  accompanied  him  wherever  he 
went.  Among  the  results  of  this  arrangement, 
were  the  journies  of  the  latter  into  Western  Tar- 
tary,  in  which  we  have  had  occasion  to  follow 


FRENCH  MISSIONARIES.  309 

him.  The  Emperor,  eager  in  the  acquisition  of 
every  kind  of  knowledge,  and  not  satisfied  with 
that  which  China  afforded,  sought  to  be  instruct- 
ed in  the  European  sciences  of  geometry,  alge- 
bra, natural  philosophy,  astronomy,  physic,  and 
anatomy.  The  fathers  spent  several  years  in  com- 
posing lectures  upon  these  subjects  in  the  Tar- 
tarian language,  which  they  delivered  twice  a-day 
at  the  palace.  Peking  became  now  a  kind  of  home 
for  the  Jesuits,  who  resorted  thither  successively 
in  considerable  bodies.  The  profession  of  Chris- 
tianity, however,  was  not  legally  permitted 
throughout  the  empire,  and  severe  persecutions 
■were  even  carried  on  in  several  of  the  provinces, 
till  1692,  when  an  edict  was  obtained  from 
Kanghi,  allowing  its  free  exercise.  He  even 
granted,  within  the  extensive  inclosure  of  the 
palace,  a  considerable  spot  of  ground  for  a  house 
and  church,  and  supplied  money  to  build  the 
edifice,  which  was  completed  in  four  years. 

It  cannot  be  denied,  that  the  Jesuits,  during 
this  period  of  their  favour,  made  very  consider- 
able exertions  to  convey  to  Europe  information 
respecting  this  vast  empire.  A  body  of  them  was 
employed  to  survey  the  different  provinces,  and 
to  fix  the  leading  positions  by  astronomical  ob- 
servations :  so  that  our  maps  of  China  are  now 
constructed  on  more  accurate  data  than  those  of 
almost  any  other  country  out  of  Europe.    To  them 


310  CHINA. 

we  are  indebted  for  almost  all  we  know  of  the  vast 
regions  comprehended  under  the  appellation  of 
Chinese  Tartary.  The  history  of  China  by  Du- 
halde,  the  Memoires  sur  les  Chinois^  by  Amiot 
and  others,  and  the  treatises  by  Parennin,  Pre- 
mare,  &c.  in  the  Letires  EdifianteSy  include  a 
vast  mass  of  valuable  materials.  The  translation 
of  the  History  of  China,  by  Mailla,  is  also  a  work 
of  great  labour  and  merit.  The  Jesuits,  indeed, 
have  been  accused  of  flattering  the  Chinornaniay 
which  raged  in  France  during  that  period.  Al- 
though, however,  there  prevail  in  their  narratives 
a  tone  of  vague  exaggeration,  I  am  not  aware  of 
the  facts  being  in  many  cases  actually  misrepre- 
sented. They  err  chiefly  in  want  of  comprehen- 
sive views,  and  in  the  injudicious  selection  of  the 
subjects  to  which  their  long  treatises  are  devoted. 
The  recent  delineations  given  by  our  countrymen, 
though  derived  from  much  less  extended  means 
of  observation,  are  drawn  up  in  a  strain  more  en- 
lightened and  judicious  ;  and  the  Protestant  mis- 
sionaries have  even  penetrated  farther  into  the 
secrets  of  Chinese  language  and  literature.  From 
them,  therefore,  we  shall  form  a  better  idea  of 
the  real  character  and  present  state  of  this  great 
empire. 

After  the  Jesuits  had  basked  for  thirty  years  in 
this  sunshine  of  imperial  favour,  the  storm  burst 
upon  them.     The  Mandarins  had  made  repeated 


FRENCH  MISSIONARIKS.  3M 

complaints,  and  had  obtained  several  restrictions 
upon  the  Catholic  eObrts  at  conversion,  but  these 
being  found  inefleetual,  the  Tsingtou  or  viceroy 
of  lokien  drew  uj)  a  long  memorial,  representing 
all  the  fatal  consequences  which  ensued  from  tlie 
diffusion  of  this  foreign  sect.  Tiie  reasons  assign- 
ed are  curious,  from  the  view  they  aftbrd  of  Chi- 
nese manners  and  ideas.  He  states,  that  the  new 
converts  are  taught  to  pay  no  honours  to  their 
deceased  father  and  mother,  and  to  consider 
themselves  as  a  stream  without  a  source  ;  that 
they  are  equally  instructed  to  disregard  the  doc- 
trine of  the  ancient  sages,  and  even  of  Confucius, 
and  to  reserve  all  their  respect  for  a  foreigner, 
named  Jesus.  lie  complains  of  the  vast  sums 
spent  in  building  churches,  drawn  out  of  the  very 
entrails  of  the  peo])le,  who,  however  avaricious  in 
other  points,  arc  taught  to  spare  nothing  in  this. 
He  brands  the  conduct  of  the  women  and  girls, 
who  went  publicly  to  church  along  with  the  men, 
contrary  to  all  propriety  ;  and  at  other  times 
went  alone  into  a  dark  chamber,  to  speak  secret 
words  to  the  Europeans,  (confession).  But  the 
disorder  in  the  new  sect,  from  which  he  antici- 
pates the  most  fatal  eflects,  is  the  want  of  zeal  for 
the  raising  of  progeny.  Though  this  be  the  first 
duty  of  every  Chinese,  and  though  it  be  the 
deadliest  of  sins  to  leave  no  posterity,  he  com- 
plains, that  with  them  celibacy  is  considered  as 


319,  CHINA. 

the  most  meritorious  state ;  that  many  females 
are  trained  to  it  even  from  their  infancy  ;  that 
mothers,  on  their  daughters  coming  of  age,  do 
not  consider  themselves  bound  to  provide  them 
immediately  with  a  husband  ;  and  that  men  who 
lose  their  wives,  instead  of  presently  looking  out 
for  another,  judge  it  more  laudable  to  remain  for 
some  time  single.  Unless  a  stop  were  instantly 
put  to  these  enormities,  he  insists  that  all  the 
good  laws  and  customs  of  the  empire  must  be  en- 
tirely ruined.  This  remonstrance,  being  trans- 
mitted to  Yongtching,  the  new  emperor,  who  had 
recently  succeeded  Kanghi,  was  referred  by  him 
to  the  tribunal  of  Rites.  The  decisions  of  that 
body  had  been  always  of  one  tenor.  They  drew 
up  a  decree  for  the  imperial  signature,  which  an- 
nounced, that  the  missionaries  at  Peking,  being  of 
use  for  the  construction  of  the  calendar,  should 
be  allowed  to  remain  ;  but  that  all  others  should 
quit  the  empire,  for  which  the  ample  period  of  a 
year  and  a  half  was  allowed.  The  exercise  of  the 
new  faith  was  entirely  prohibited.  Notwithstand- 
ing all  the  interest  which  the  Jesuits  could  make, 
this  decree  was  signed  and  promulgated,  and  the 
Mandarins  lost  not  a  moment  in  acting  upon  its 
provisions.  Scarcely  had  it  passed,  when  the 
fathers  learned  with  dismay,  that  the  church  in 
the  nearest  town  to  Peking  was  converted  into  a 
granary.    Others  were  formed  into  public  schools 


FRENCH  MISSIONARIES.  SIS 

or  colleges,  or  into  halls  established  in  honour  of 
their  ancestors. 

After  this  burst  was  over,  the  persecution  ap- 
pears to  have  sensibly  slackened,  and  a  consider- 
able number  of  Jesuits  again  insinuated  them- 
selves into  the  empire.  In  174-6,  however,  under 
the  government  of  Kienlong,  a  new  and  warm 
remonstrance  was  made  by  the  Mandarins,  in 
consequence  of  which  the  persecution  began 
afresh.  Many  were  tortured  j  five  preachers  and 
a  catechist  were  condemned  to  death,  the  first 
instance  of  capital  punishment  for  the  sake  of 
religion.  Chanseaume,  the  missionary  who 
gives  the  account,  consoles  himself  with  the 
thought,  that  though  the  fire  kindles  easily,  it  is 
soon  extinguished  ;  and  that  they  will  find  an  op- 
portunity of  making  their  way  back.  The  next 
great  persecution  was  in  1771«  Cibot,  the  narra- 
tor, observes,  that  the  emperor  was  quite  in  their 
favour,  but  was  unable  to  stem  the  torrent.  He 
laments  indeed  the  praises  with  which  this  mo- 
narch continually  loaded  them,  declaring  they 
were  the  only  astronomers  and  painters  in  the 
kingdom ;  which,  with  a  jealous  people,  added 
continually  new  fuel  to  their  enmity.  All  the 
prince  could  do  was  to  prevent  the  punishment 
of  death  from  being  inflicted  ;  and  one  convert 
who  went  to  demand  martyrdom  for  himself,  his 
wife,  and  infant  son,  was  dismissed  as  a  madman. 


;jl'l  CHINA. 

The  Mandarins,  however,  still  exercised  the  power 
of  whipping  the  converts,  laying  them  naked  on 
ice,  or  hanging  their  feet  in  the  air ;  and  it  is  la- 
mented, that  though  their  first  word  was  usually 
good,  they  wanted  firmness  to  persevere.  The 
persecution,  after  declining,  was  renewed  in  1772, 
1773,  and  1778  ;  and  there  is  reason  to  believe 
that  it  has  ever  since  been  renewed  at  occasional 
intervals,  without  the  Christian  faith  being  en? 
tirely  rooted  out. 

Cathay,  the  Tartar  name  of  China,  which 
sounded  so  great  in  the  ears  of  the  early  western 
travellers,  was  not  likely  to  escape  the  notice  of 
Russia,  after  that  power  began  to  stretch  its  do- 
main into  the  east  of  Asia.  Even  before  she  had 
penetrated  beyond  the  Obi,  or  come  in  contact 
with  the  Chinese  Tartar  frontier,  she  sought  to 
open  a  communication  across  the  vast  deserts  by 
which  she  was  separated  from  this  celebrated 
empire.  In  1619  Evashko  Pettlin,  a  Cossack, 
was  despatched  from  Tomo  (Tomsk)  by  an  officer 
bearing  five  names  so  uncouth  that  I  shall  not 
attempt  to  recite  them.  He  bore  an  embassy  in 
the  first  instance  to  a  Tartar  prince  called  the 
Altine  Char,  or  the  Golden  King,  and  was  then 
instructed  ta  endeavour  to  search  out  his  way  to 
Catay.  From  Tomo  he  went  in  ten  days  to  Kir- 
gis  (the  Kirghises).     He  only  passed  through  a 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES.  $15 

corner  of  their  country,  and  came  to  Mutalla, 
called  elsewhere  Mugalla  (Mongolia).  This,  it 
seems,  was  the  country  governed  by  Altine  Char, 
who  is  therefore  the  Khan  of  the  Mongols.  The 
country  of  Mugalla  is  described  as  **  great  and 
**  large,"  and  *'  there  groweth  all  manner  of 
"  graine,**  and  "  fruit  they  have  of  all  sorts. 
"  The  men  are  not  faire,  but  the  women  are  very 
f^  faire."  The  churches  were  filled  with  numer- 
ous idols,  some  gilt,  and  of  very  large  dimensions, 
with  candles  burning  before  them.  The  ceremo- 
nies have  a  great  resemblance  to  those  of  the 
Greek  church  ;  and  the  priests  assured  him,  that 
"  their  religion  and  ours  was  all  one,  only  the 
"  Russe  monks  wear  blacke,  and  theirs  white." 
After  five  weeks  travelling  through  Mugalla, 
they  came  to  the  realm  of  the  Duchess  of  Man- 
chika.  We  should  not  suppose  a  female  reign  to 
be  very  usual  in  this  part  of  Asia  ;  but  the  name 
Manchika  plainly  suggests  the  Mantchou  Tar- 
tars. At  the  end  of  the  Duchess's  territory,  they 
came  to  the  great  wall  of  Catay.  It  is  reported 
to  be  built  of  brick,  fifteen  fathoms  high  ;  and 
they  counted  a  hundred  towers  in  view  at  one 
moment.  There  were  only  five  gates,  and  those 
so  low  and  narrow  that  a  man  could  not  pass 
through  on  horseback.  Being  admitted  through 
this  gate,  they  came  to  Shirokalga  (Kalgan),  the 
first  town  within   the  wall,  which   they   found 


316  CHINA. 

strongly  fortified  with  artillery,  "  after  the  man- 
"  ner  of  Mosco  castle  ;'*  and  the  governor's  at- 
tendants walked  before  him  with  rods,  "  as  before 
*'  our  Emperor  at  Mosco."  Passing  then  through 
Yara  to  Tayth  (Taitongfou),  they  found  a  city 
much  larger  and  more  splendid  than  any  of  the 
former,  two  days*  journey  in  circuit,  the  shops 
and  warehouses  richly  furnished.  He  saw  there 
ail  the  fruits  known  in  Russia,  and  many  others 
there  unknown  j  so  that  "  they  want  nothing 
*'  whatsoever  groweth  in  the  world."  After  pass- 
ing through  several  other  places,  he  came  to  the 
greatest  city  of  all  Cataya,  called  Catay  ;  for  the 
name  of  Peking  seems  to  have  been  unknown  to 
him.  He  describes  it  as  a  very  great  city,  four 
days*  journey  in  circuit,  and  surrounded  with 
**  very  fine  towers  high  built  and  white.**  In  the 
midst,  at  half  a  day*s  journey  from  each  side,  is 
the  imperial  castle  or  fortification,  which  he 
strangely  imagines  to  be  composed  of  magnet. 
Within  this  magnetic  wall  is  the  palace,  the  roof 
of  which  is  said  to  be  all  gilded  over.  Four  days 
after  their  arrival  a  secretary  arrived  with  two 
hundred  men  mounted  on  asses,  who  presented 
drinks  of  various  kinds,  and  asked  the  motive  of 
their  visit  to  Catay.  On  stating  this,  and  express- 
ing a  wish  to  be  introduced  to  the  King,  they 
were  told,  that  for  this  purpose  a  present  was  in- 
dispensable J  and  the  secretary  lamented  much 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES^  SI7 

the  total  absence  of  this  requisite.  He  said  if 
their  "  white  emperor"  had  sent  something  even 
of  trifling  value,  the  Chinese  monarch,  consider- 
ing it  as  a  first  visit,  would  have  gladly  received 
faim  ;  but  that  there  must  be  something.  The 
messenger,  however,  having  absolutely  nothing, 
was  obliged  to  depart  with  a  letter  only.  He  re- 
turned to  Tobolsk ;  but  unfortunately  that  city 
did  not  contain  any  one  of  learning  sufficient  to 
decypher  a  single  syllable.  What,  therefore, 
might  be  the  scope  of  his  imperial  Majesty's  com- 
munication, remained  for  ever  a  secret. 

In  IG56  a  mission  was  sent  under  an  ambassa- 
dor of  the  name  of  Boicof  ;  but  as  he  refused  to 
perform  the  ceremony  of  the  Kotou,  he  was  dis- 
missed without  obtaining  an  audience. 

The  Russian  empire  continually  extending  it- 
self through  Siberia,  came,  in  16S0,  in  contact  with 
the  Chinese  near  the  banks  of  the  Amoor.  This 
collision  led,  in  the  first  instance,  to  some  hostile 
encounters,  till  a  treaty  was  concluded  at  Nertst- 
hinish,  fixing  the  limits  of  the  two  empires,  and 
allowing  the  subjects  of  each  to  trade,  with  pass- 
ports, in  the  territory  of  the  other.  Considerable 
profits  being  found  to  arise  from  this  intercourse, 
Peter  the  Great  conceived  the  design  of  improv- 
ing and  enlarging  it. 

as 


318  CHINA. 

In  1693  he  despatched  Everard  Isbrand  Ides, 
who  spent  three  years  in  going  and  returning  be- 
tween Moscow  and  Peking.  We  shall  take  other 
authorities  for  the  part  of  his  journey  which  lay 
through  Siberia,  and  shall  join  him  at  the  great 
wall,  which  he  considers  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
world.  He  then  proceeded  to  Galka  (Kalgan), 
where  the  governor  entertained  him  with  a  feast 
prepared  in  the  usual  Chinese  style — the  meat  cut 
into  mouthfuls,  served  in  bowls  piled  over  each 
other  upon  small  tables,  and  eaten  with  chopsticks 
only — tea  and  brandy  for  liquor — music  and 
plays  performing  during  the  meal.  He  was  par- 
ticularly pleased  with  the  soups,  composed  of  an 
herb  found  in  rocks,  without  leaves,  and  which 
some  reported  to  be  birds*  nests ;  a  just  state- 
ment, this  substance  being  in  fact  eagerly  sought 
for  by  the  Chinese  through  all  the  Indian  archi- 
pelago. He  assures  us  that  no  German  cook 
could  have  mended  them. 

In  a  few  days  the  embassy  reached  Tongchou, 
which  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  Japan 
and  Corea,  and  bears  all  the  Chinese  marks  of 
commercial  prosperity.  The  river  was  covered 
with  junks,  having  masts  of  bamboo,  with  sails  of 
rush,  and  cemented,  instead  of  pitch,  with  a  spe- 
cies of  glutinous  earth.  The  ambassador  was 
much  dazzled  by  the  display  of  beautiful  porce- 
lain in  the  market.     He  then  proceeded  through 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES.  819 

a  fertile  country,  diversified  with  fine  gardens,  to 
Peking,  and  was  carried  through  the  usual  immense 
crowd  to  his  apartments  in  the  hotel  of  ambassa- 
dors. Three  days  after,  he  received  the  imperial 
feast  of  welcome,  when  the  Emperor's  uncle  and 
four  other  lords  seated  themselves  on  the  floor 
with  him  to  a  cold  collation  of  seventy  dishes.  A 
few  days  after  he  received  instructions  to  appear 
next  morning  at  the  castle  with  the  credentials  of 
his  czarish  majesty.  He  was  escorted  by  three 
Mandarins,  and  was  led  to  the  imperial  hall, 
where  a  vast  number  of  officers,  richly  dressed, 
were  in  waiting.  Soon  after  the  Emperor  appear- 
ed, and  the  ambassador  delivered  his  credentials 
with  the  usual  ceremonial,  which,  I  presume^ 
must  have  included  the  Kotou,  though  it  is  not 
expressly  specified.  They  were  afterwards  invit- 
ed to  a  grand  dinner,  at  which  the  Emperor  was 
present.  This  was  of  course  more  splendid  than 
any  of  the  former  ones,  though  served  in  the 
same  style,  and  all  the  dishes  were  cold.  The 
ambassador  was  seated  near  the  monarch,  who 
directed  him  to  be  brought  still  nearer,  and  sent 
him  several  dishes  from  his  own  table.  Having 
then  asked  what  European  languages  he  under- 
stood, the  Emperor  caused  the  missionaries  Ger- 
billon,  and  Thomas,  a  Portuguese,  to  be  called  in. 
Gerbillon  put  a  number  of  questions  in  Italian 
concerning  his  journey,  and  the  country  through 


320  CHINA. 

which  he  had  passed,  reporting  the  answers  to  the 
Emperor.  The  monarch  concluded  by  giving 
him  a^draiight  of  the  Tartar  Hquor  koumiss,  when 
the  ambassador  took  his  leave. 

During  his  stay  Isbrand  Ides  witnessed  the 
festival  of  the  new  year,  which  is  celebrated  with 
universal  and  enthusiastic  festivity.  The  dis- 
charge of  rockets  and  other  fire-works,  the  sound- 
ing of  the  large  idolatrous  drums,  the  blowing  of 
trumpets,  and  the  acclamations  of  the  people, 
produced  a  noise  as  great  as  if  there  had  been  a 
pitched  battle  between  two  armies  of  a  hundred 
thousand  men.  During  the  day  the  streets  were 
crowded  with  processions  of  images,  attended  by 
iamas,  bearing  pots  of  incense,  and  strings  of 
beads.  Many  Tartar  ladies  were  seen  riding  on 
asses,  with  their  servant-maids  behind.  All  the 
usual  plays  and  juggling  tricks  were  carefully 
exhibited.  He  was  particularly  amused  by  the 
elephant  stable,  the  inmates  of  which  had  not 
only  been  trained  to  place  themselves  in  every 
imaginable  position  at  the  command  of  their 
keeper,  but  had  even  been  instructed  to  imitate 
the  sounds  of  different  animals  ;  the  roar  of  the 
tiger,  the  low  of  the  ox,  and  even  the  note  of  the 
canary  bird.  The  Romish  missionaries,  at  present 
in  high  favour,  shewed  him  the  large  convent 
which  they  had  built,  and  enclosed  with  a  high 
wall.    The  church  was  capable  of  containing  two 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES.  321 

or  three  thousand  people,  and  was  richly  adorned 
with  altars  and  images.  For  the  amusement  of 
the  Emperor,  they  kept  a  museum  of  rarities, 
and  a  pair  of  globes  six  feet  in  diameter.  They 
drank  in  rich  wines  the  healths  of  the  monarchs 
of  Europe. 

The  audience  of  leave  took  place  in  a  different 
hall  from  that  of  introduction,  but  with  ceremo- 
nies nearly  similar,  and  with  every  mark  of  amity. 
During  this  embassy  arrangements  were  made  for 
the  passing  of  regular  caravans  to  Peking.  These 
were  understood  to  belong  to  the  Russian  govern- 
ment, and  had  all  their  expenses  within  the  em- 
pire defrayed  by  the  Chinese  court.  The  Russi- 
ans, however,  soon  gave  considerable  umbrage  by 
their  habits  of  intoxication,  which  produced  dis- 
orders altogether  shocking  to  this  sober  and  or- 
derly people.  The  complaints  became  so  numer- 
ous, that  Kanghi  began  to  threaten  their  entire 
expulsion.  To  obviate  this  danger,  the  Czar,  in 
1715,  sent  Leoff  Vassilovih  Ismayloff  as  envoy  to 
the  court  of  China.  A  narrative  of  the  journey 
was  afterwards  written  by  Laurence  Lange,  the 
caravan  agent ;  and  a  still  more  valuable  one  by 
our  countryman  Bell,  to  whose  fidelity  ample  tes- 
timony is  borne  by  Mr  Barrow. 

The  embassy  stopped  at  Selinginsk  till'  notice 
was  sent  to  the  court  of  Peking,  and  permission 
obtained  to  proceed.     This  caused  a  delay  of 

VOL.  in.  X 


3^^  CHINA. 

about  two  months.  At  length,  on  the  8th  of 
September,  they  took  their  departure.  On  view- 
ing the  vast  extent  of  rich  land  lying  here  uncul- 
tivated, and  covered  with  wood,  Bell  could  not 
help  comparing  it  to  the  American  colonies,  and 
figuring  to  himself  the  cultivated  fields,  villages, 
and  farm-houses,  with  which  it  would  one  day  be 
covered.  There  is  good  land  here,  he  says,  enough 
tp  feed  two  or  three  great  European  nations.  On 
the  20th  they  passed  a  rivulet  called  the  Saritzyn, 
or  New  Moon,  which  forms  the  boundary  between 
the  Russian  and  Chinese  empires.  The  plains 
here  are  covered  with  rank  and  thick  grass,  so 
dry  that  it  would  make  excellent  hay.  The  Mon- 
gols, however,  merely  set  fire  to  it,  and  cause  a 
wide  conflagration,  that  it  may  be  manure  to  the 
next  crop.  From  this  time  all  their  e^cpenses 
"were  defrayed  by  the  Chinese  government ;  hut 
some  females  whom  they  were  bringing  in  their 
train  were  imperatively  stopped.  They  passed 
over  fine  plains  and  valleys,  covered  with  rank 
grass,  and  producing  rhubarb  abundantly,  but 
without  inhabitants.  By  degrees  the  aspect  of 
the  country  altered  for  the  worse  ;  and  at  length 
they  arrived  on  the  borders  of  the  desert  of 
Shamo.  On  the  4th  October,  at  Tola,  they  filled 
their  bottles  for  the  last  time  with  pure  and 
vholesome  water,  and  entered  on  what  the  Mon- 
gols called  the  Hungry  Desert.     Although,  how- 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES.  323 

ever,  the  grass  is  short  and  thin,  it  appeared  to 
be  very  nourishing,  from  the  good  condition  of  a 
considerable  number  of  cattle.  This  arises  per- 
haps from  the  saline  character  of  the  soil.  The 
ground  was  strewed  with  numberless  pebbles,  some 
of  very  considerable  beauty  and  value.  On  the 
11th  they  came  to  a  spring  of  pure  running  water, 
which  appeared  to  them  as  delicious  as  Burgundy 
or  Champaigne.  Numerous  springs  and  lakes  of 
brackish  water  here  occur,  which,  notwithstand- 
ing their  bad  quality,  render  the  country  habita- 
ble. Their  heaviest  toil  was  in  crossing  a  tract 
of  moving  sand,  formed  into  shifting  waves  twen- 
ty feet  high,  and  sinking  beneath  their  feet.  So 
laborious  wa?  this  road,  that  though  it  was  only 
twenty  miles  broad,  they  spent  three  days  in 
passing  it.  At  length,  on  the  4th  November, 
one  of  the  party  cried  out  Land  1  and  the  rest, 
on  looking,  beheld,  at  forty  miles'  distance,  the 
wall  of  China  majestically  stretching  along  the 
tops  of  the  mountains.  As  they  approached 
nearer,  it  became  always  the  more  majestic, 
running  from  one  high  rock  to  another,  with 
square  towers  in  the  intervals.  They  found 
the  gate  guarded  by  a  thousand  men,  and  com- 
manded by  two  officers,  one  Tartar  and  the  other 
Chinese.  They  were  entertained  in  the  guard- 
room with  fruits,  confections,  and  tea  ;  and  four 
miles  beyond  arrived  at  Kalgan. 


324  CHINA* 

The  embassy  proceeded  to  Peking  by  the  same 
route  as  the  former  mission.     They  entered  amid 
the  usual  crowd,  and  were  received  with  the  usual 
ceremonies.     A  very  warm  discussion  took  place 
on  the  subject  of  the  Kotou,  or  nine  prostrations, 
which  were  most  strenuously  resisted  by  the  em- 
bassy; however  the  Chinese  remained  inflexible,  in- 
timatingthat  without  it  there  could  be  no  audience. 
At  length  the  Russians  yielded,   endeavouring  to 
save  their  honour  by  the  stipulation,  that  since 
they  in  China  had  followed  the  Chinese  ceremo- 
nial, the  Chinese  in  Russia  should  follow  the  Rus- 
sian one.      This  was  readily  granted ;  yet  the 
operation  of  prostrating  themselves  nine  times  in 
the  dust  proved  still  very  ungrateful,  and  even 
"when  the  crisis  came  they  made   repeated   at- 
tempts to  abridge  the  process  ;  but  the  unrelent- 
ing Mandarins  called  out  continually  morgu-boss, 
in  a  tone  which  admitted  of  no  contradiction. 
After  the  ceremony,  the  King  addressed  them  in 
a  very  courteous  manner,  admitted  them  to  se- 
veral interviews,  and  took  them  out  to  hunt  with 
him.    During  a  stay  of  several  months  at  Peking, 
our  author  had  a  pretty  full  view  of  the  genius 
and  character  of  the  Chinese.     He  places  them 
in  rather  a  more  favourable  light  than  most  tra- 
vellers.    The  Chinese,   he  says,   are  a  civilized 
and  hospitable  people,  complaisant  to  strangers, 
and  to  one  another;  their  regard  for  their  pa-; 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSIES.  325 

rents,  and  decent  treatment  of  their  women  of  all 
ranks,  deserve  great  praise.  He  says  they  observe 
the  Strictest  honour  and  justice  in  their  dealings ; 
yet  immediately  after  adds,  not  very  consistently, 
that  not  a  few  of  them  are  much  addicted  to 
knavery.  He  praises  them  also  for  their  great 
patience  in  finishing  every  thing  they  undertake ; 
and  instances  the  street  of  Peking,  which  appear- 
ed to  him  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  the  ca- 
nals, lined  with  freestone,  by  which  water  is  con- 
veyed into  the  city. 

In  this  embassy  the  negociators  obtained  the 
consent  of  the  Chinese  government  to  continue 
the  trade  on  the  same  terms  as  before.  The 
Russians,  however,  still  indulging  in  the  same 
excesses,  were  at  length,  in  172^,  entirely  banish- 
ed from  the  empire.  A  new  treaty  was  made  in 
1727,  by  which  the  crown  was  allowed  to  send  a 
caravan  once  in  three  years,  and  a  frontier  sta- 
tion was  fixed  for  carrying  on  the  general  trade 
between  the  empires.  In  1755  the  caravans  were 
dropped  ;  and  the  whole  intercourse  has  since 
been  confined  to  the  two  contiguous  towns  of 
Kiachta  on  the  Russian  side,  and  Maimatshin 
on  the  Chinese.  With  the  latter  also  it  is  con- 
fined to  a  certain  number  of  merchants,  licens- 
ed and  regulated  by  the  government. 

Mr  Barrow,  in  his  valuable  account  of  China 
communicated  to  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica, 


3^  CHINA. 

has  given  the  substance  of  a  most  curious  docu- 
ment, being  the  secret  instructions  given  by  the 
Chinese  to  their  Board  of  Merchants,  of  which 
the  Russians  by  some  means  had  obtained  posses- 
sion. It  instructs  them  to  proceed  on  the  most 
complete  system  of  concealment  and  deception. 
Every  letter  received  by  any  one  merchant  must 
be  opened  in  a  public  assembly,  "  that  they  may 
**  act  in  concert  against  the  Russians."  False 
information  is  to  be  given  on  the  prices  of  all 
goods  in  the  interior  of  China ;  and  if  any  one 
article  is  particularly  in  demand,  the  merchants 
must  all  join  in  decrying  it,  while  no  one  on  any 
account  shall  outbid  the  other.  Whoever  betrays 
to  the  Russians  any  secrets  of  the  interior  trade, 
is  to  be  sent  to  the  galleys  for  three  years.  They 
are  to  carry  on  all  transactions  in  the  language 
of  the  Russians,  so  that  the  latter  may  be  under 
no  necessity  of  learning  Chinese.  Every  effort  is 
to  be  made  to  discover  the  secrets  of  the  Russian 
government ;  but  the  punishment  of  death  is 
pronounced  on  all  who  betray  to  the  Russians  the 
secrets  of  the  Chinese  government.  The  extent 
and  value  of  the  trade  carried  on  in  this  extraor- 
dinary manner  is  very  imperfectly  known. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


BRITISH  EMBASSIES. 


Lotd  Macartney. — Lord  Amherst Captain  Hall.- 

Present  State. 


China  had  hitherto  been  traversed  only  by  mer- 
chants and  missionaries,  who  had  viewed  it  only 
in  a  limited  and  partial  manner,  and  wanted  skill 
and  judgment  to  arrange  the  copious  materials 
which  they  had  been  enabled  to  collect.  Britain 
had  first  the  honour  of  sending  out  a  mission, 
which,  with  the  usual  political  objects,  combined 
arrangements  for  acquiring  an  accurate  know- 
ledge what  sort  of  country  China,  under  every 
point  of  view,  really  was.  For  this  purpose,  it 
was  composed  not  only  of  diplomatic  characters 
of  the  highest  distinction,  but  of  men  of  science 
and  intelligence  in  every  department,  well  quali- 
fied to  appreciate  all  the  objects  which  nature 
or  society  should  present  to  their  view.  Ac- 
cordingly the  narrative  of  Sir  George  Staunton, 
and  the  still  more  valuable  and  judicious  one 
of  Mr  Barrow,  has  afforded  us  very  ample  mean? 
to  estimate  the  place  which  this  great  empire 
holds  in  the  scale  of  social  existence. 


328  CHINA. 

Lord  Macartney,  already  distinguished  in  the 
annals  of  diplomacy,  was  selected,  at  once  in  con- 
sideration of  his  approved  skill,  and  of  his  rank, 
so  well  calculated  to  dazzle  a  people  among  whom 
titles  are  viewed  as  an  object  of  the  first  import- 
ance.    The  subordinate  situations  were  filled  by 
Sir  George  Staunton,  Mr  Barrow,  and  Dr  Din- 
widdle.    Instead  of  landing  at  Canton,  they  de- 
termined to  sail  round  and  disembark  in  the  Yel- 
low Sea,  whereby  they  would  avoid  the  delay  and 
obstacles  of  a  long  land  journey,  and  would  view 
an  extent  of  coast  not  hitherto  visited  by  Euro- 
peans.     In  navigating  the  eastern   coast,   they 
came  to  the  great  archipelago  of  Tchusan,  con- 
sisting of  not  less  than  four  hundred  islands. 
Boats  came  out  in  crowds  to  view  a  vessel,  the 
construction  of  which  was  so  new  to  them.     Be- 
sides boats,  there  were  a  number  of  larger  vessels 
conveying  wood,  which  was  piled  on  them  to  such 
a  height  as  apparently  to  involve  the  greatest 
danger  of  their  being  overturned.     The  larger 
vessels  were  of  the  most  cumbrous  construction ; 
the  hull  presenting  the  form  of  the  new  moon, 
while  the  ends  rose  on  each  side  to  an  enormous 
height,  and  the  bow  was  of  the  same  square  form 
with  the  stern.   The  mast,  however  large,  is  com- 
posed of  a  single  piece;  and  to  each  mast  is  at- 
tached a  single  sail,  composed  of  the  fibres  of  the 
bamboo,  which  often  furls  and  unfurls  like  a  fan. 


MACARTNEY.  329 

It  seemed  inconceivable  how,  in  such  clumsy  ves- 
sels, they  could  perform  long  voyages,  especially 
amid  seas  where  they  are  exposed  to  the  tafang  or 
tuffoon,  a  blast  so  tremendous,  that  at  its  height, 
as  an  experienced  commander  assured  Mr  Bar- 
row, if  ten  thousand  drums  and  as  many  trumpets 
were  blowing  at  the  same  moment,  they  would 
not  be  heard.  Accordingly  ten  or  twelve  thou- 
sand persons  are  said  to  perish  annually  in  this 
navigation. 

The  mission  landed  at  Tchusan,  where  they 
were  received  with  courtesy.  They  observed  on 
the  tables  a  singular  ornament,  consisting  of  pines, 
oaks,  and  other  forest  trees,  none  above  two  feet 
high,  yet  some  bearing  marks  of  age,  and  sur- 
rounded with  rocks,  earth,  and  mosses,  so  as  to 
give  the  appearance  of  a  real  forest.  The  Chi- 
nese, by  a  peculiar  art,  have  been  enabled  to 
effect  this  miniature  imitation  of  nature.  Their 
object  was  here  to  procure  a  pilot  into  the  Yellow 
Sea,  whereupon  all  the  inhabitants  who  had  ever 
been  at  sea  were  put  in  requisition,  and  came  drop- 
ping on  their  knees  before  the  governor.  Two 
poor  men  were  obliged  to  leave  their  trades,  and 
accompany  the  Enghsh,  but  proved  so  ignorant, 
that  the  latter  were  solely  indebted  to  their  own 
skill  and  vigilance  for  a  safe  navigation  through 
these  dangerous  seas.  They  succeeded,  however, 
in  entering  that  great  gulf,  and  after  anchoring  in 


350  CHINA. 

the  bay  of  Ten-choo-foo,  came  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Peiho.  Provisions  and  fruits  were  sent  out 
in  vast  quantities  ;  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  rivet 
there  were  found  from  thirty  to  forty  vessels  of 
two  hundred  tons  each,  for  their  conveyance  up- 
wards. These  vessels  were  entirely  rigged  with 
bamboo,  but  were  exceedingly  convenient,  rising 
high  above  the  water,  and  being  divided  into 
thirteen  distinct  compartments.  The  flags  boref 
in  black  characters  the  following  inscription : 
The  English  ambassador  carrying  tribute  to  the 
Emperor  of  China. 

The  embassy  were  disappointed  in  the  first  ap- 
proach to  this  great  capital  of  China.  The  coun- 
try was  low  and  swampy,  cultivated  only  in  parts ; 
the  villages,  though  numerous,  were  small,  and 
every  thing  had  a  poor  appearance.  The  banks 
were  crowded  with  spectators,  among  whom  they 
observed  many  females ;  but  among  those  fair 
ornaments  of  the  creation,  none  had  ever  been 
seen  whose  charms  were  embellished  with  so  little 
judgment  as  on  the  banks  of  the  Peiho.  Large 
bunches  of  artificial  flowers  were  stuck  in  their 
hair,  but  without  the  least  taste  ;  their  faces  and 
necks  were  daubed  with  white  paint,  their  eyes 
blackened,  and  their  chin  decked  with  two  bright 
Vermillion  spots.  Ancles  enormously  thick  pro- 
truded over  feet  which  had  been  reduced  by  un- 
natural compression  to  the  length  of  four  or  five 


MACABTNEY.  331 

inches,  while  the  diminutive  shoe  was  tawdrily 
ornamented  with  fringe  and  tassels.  As  the  Eng- 
lish penetrated  into  the  more  crowded  districts, 
females  no  longer  appeared  in  public. 

On  approaching  Tiensing,  the  embassy  saw  the 
first  object  calculated  to  give  them  an  idea  of  the 
vast  population  of  China.  This  consisted  in  the 
piles  of  salt  here  accumulated  for  the  use  of  the 
neighbouring  provinces,  which  were  judged  suffi- 
cient for  the  annual  consumption  of  thirty  mil- 
lions of  people.  On  entering  the  city,  the  multi- 
tude of  large  vessels  lying  close  together,  the 
throng  of  small  craft,  through  which  it  was 
scarcely  possible  to  make  their  way,  the  number- 
less spectators  standing  in  rows  behind  each 
other,  presented  a  complete  scene  of  crowd  and 
business.  The  countenances  of  the  people  were 
extremely  prepossessing,  their  behaviour  cour- 
teous and  accommodating,  and  their  features  bore 
the  stamp  of  innocence  and  simplicity.  After 
leaving  Tiensing,  the  country  again  ceased  to 
present  a  crowded  population  ;  but  the  deficiency 
on  land  was  made  up  on  the  water.  In  the  course 
of  ninety  miles,  they  counted,  besides  numberless 
small  craft,  a  thousand  vessels  fitted  up  as  houses, 
and  each  containing  ten  or  twelve  apartments, 
sufficient  to  hold  a  family.  At  length  they  land- 
ed,  and  proceeded  in  about  twelve  miles  to  the 
capital  of  China.     The  first  aspect  did  not  cor- 


532  CHINA. 

respond  with  the  ideas  formed  of  the  greatest  city 
in  the  world.  Although  the  walls  were  only 
twenty-five  feet  high,  neither  house,  tower,  spire, 
nor  dome  appeared  above  them.  This  wall,  like 
all  others  in  China,  is  merely  composed  of  the 
earth  dug  out  of  the  ditch,  faced  on  each  side 
with  masonry.  On  entering,  however,  the  streets 
were  found  straight  and  broad,  and  the  houses, 
though  only  one  storey  high,  were  painted  with 
various  colours,  and  adorned  with  flags,  so  that 
the  whole  had  the  air  of  a  large  encampment. 
The  crowd  of  moveable  workshops,  the  tents  and 
booths  for  selling  provisions,  the  processions  of 
men  in  office,  with  their  numerous  retinues  and 
strange  insignia,  mourners,  marriage  parties,  ped- 
lars, jugglers,  conjurors,  mountebanks,  musicians, 
composed  so  numerous  and  confused  a  crowd, 
that  the  Tartar  soldiers  could  scarcely  with  their 
whips  enforce  a  passage.  This  multitude,  amid 
the  varied  noises  raised  by  bawling  their  wares, 
wrangling,  talking,  and  laughing  with  each  other, 
cast  a  curious  glance  at  the  passing  embassy,  but 
without  intermitting  any  of  their  own  occupations. 
The  English  were  conveyed  at  first  to  apartments 
eight  miles  beyond  Peking,  but  found  them  so 
wretched,  that  they  solicited  a  return  to  the  capi- 
tal. The  Emperor,  however,  was  then  at  his 
hunting  palace  of  Gehol,  within  the  frontier  of 
Tartary  j  and  they  were  requested  to  repair  thi- 


MACARTNEY.  $33 

ther,  for  the  purpose  of  being  introduced  to  him 
on  the  anniversary  of  his  birth-day.  Mr  Barrow 
and  Dr  Dinwiddie,  however,  continued  at  Peking, 
and  were  accommodated  in  the  palace  of  Yuen- 
mien. 

Twenty  miles  after  leaving  Peking,  the  em- 
bassy found  the  level  of  the  country  beginning  to 
rise.  The  mountains,  forming  the  approach  to  a 
table  land,  were  steep  towards  the  sea,  but  de- 
clined gently  on  the  Tartarian  side.  The  party 
were  accommodated  in  palaces  built  at  regular 
stages  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Emperor  in 
his  summer  excursions  into  Tartary.  On  the 
fourth  day  they  saw,  as  it  were,  a  line  stretching 
over  the  whole  extent  of  the  mountain  horizon  ; 
it  was  the  great  wall.  On  approaching,  their  asto- 
nishment was  still  increased  at  seeing  this  immense 
erection  carried  over  so  rugged  a  barrier,  ascend- 
ing the  highest  mountains,  and  descending  into 
the  deepest  valleys,  with  towers  at  the  distance  of 
every  hundred  steps.  The  transport  of  such  mas- 
sive materials  to  the  height  often  of  five  thousand 
feet ;  the  space  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  through 
which  it  is  continued  ;  and  its  perfect  preserva- 
tion after  the  lapse  of  two  thousand  years,  afford- 
ed all  new  subjects  of  wonder.  In  proceeding 
into  Tartary,  the  level  of  the  ground  became 
always  higher,  the  climate  more  severe,  the  moun- 
tains more  rugged  and  naked.      The  elevation 


33^  CHINA. 

was  further  indicated  by  the  prevalence  of  goitres 
among  the  inhabitants ;  and  some  of  the  peaks 
were  supposed  to  be  1.5,000  feet  high.  An  open- 
ing among  these  rugged  mountains  disclosed  the 
valley  in  which  Gehol  was  situated.  This  im- 
perial village  contained  only  the  palaces  of  the 
Prince  and  grandees,  mixed  with  a  few  miserable 
Tartar  huts — no  medium  between  the  extremes 
of  grandeur  and  wretchedness.  Pretty  warm  dis- 
cussions now  took  place  with  the  Colao,  or  first 
minister,  concerning  the  performance  of  the  Ko- 
tou  J  and  it  was  at  last  conceded,  that  Lord 
Macartney  should  merely  perform  the  obeisance 
usually  paid  to  his  own  sovereign,  by  bending  one 
knee  to  the  ground.  This  decision  was  supposed 
greatly  due  to  the  Emperor  himself,  a  man  of 
liberal  mind,  and  no  lover  of  ceremony.  When 
announced  at  Peking,  however,  Mr  Barrow  found 
the  courtiers  and  tribunals  struck  with  the  deep- 
est consternation,  and  considering  it  almost  of 
evil  omen  to  the  empire. 

The  hour  fixed  for  the  audience  was  the  dawn 
of  day,  which,  however  singular  it  appears  to 
Europeans,  suited  well  a  hunting  court,  where 
every  thing  was  arranged  with  a  view  to  that 
favourite  amusement.  It  was  given,  not  in  the 
palace,  but  in  a  spacious  tent  within  the  precincts 
of  the  gardens ;  a  remnant  of  Tartar  manners. 
When  they  had  waited  for  some  time,  the  ap- 


MACARTNEY.  335 

proach  of  the  Emperor  was  announced,  by  many 
instruments  playing,  and  by  a  number  of  persons 
celebrating  aloud  his  virtues  and  his  power.  He 
was  carried  in  a  chair  by  sixteen  men,  wearing  a 
robe  of  dark  coloured  silk,  and  a  velvet  head- 
dress, resembling  a  Highland  bonnet.  The  am- 
bassador was  brought  to  the  left  side  of  the  throne, 
which  is  the  Chinese  place  of  honour,  and  held 
above  his  head  the  rich  gold  box,  adorned  with 
diamonds,  which  contained  the  King's  letter. 
The  Emperor  received  it  very  graciously,  and 
took  it  into  his  own  hand,  which  is  considered  as 
a  favour  even  contrary  to  usage.  The  interview 
was  closed  by  an  imperial  feast  in  the  usual 
style. 

During  Lord  Macartney's  stay  at  Gehol,  he 
had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  the  imperial  gar- 
dens ;  an  object  which,  besides  displaying  the 
wealth  and  pomp  of  China,  exhibits  even  its  taste 
in  a  favourable  point  of  view.  The  English  en- 
tered first  through  magnificent  woods  and  lawns, 
resembling  an  English  park ;  after  travelling 
through  which  for  three  miles,  they  came  to  a 
lake  so  formed  as  to  appear  to  lose  itself  in  the 
distance.  Entering  a  magnificent  barge,  they  sail- 
ed along  this  fine  piece  of  water,  which  presented 
at  every  turn  such  varied  features  of  shore,  bay, 
rock,  and  wood,  and  the  art  which  embellished 
^U  50  carefully  concealed,  that  it  appeared  the 

28 


336  CHINA. 

grandest  specimen  of  ornamented  nature  any- 
where existing.  They  landed  at  numerous  pavil- 
lions,  filled  with  vases,  porcelain,  spheres,  orreries, 
clocks,  and  other  instruments,  of  such  exquisite 
workmanship,  and  in  such  profusion,  that  the 
presents,  which  they  had  hoped  would  at  least 
have  the  charm  of  novelty,  sunk  into  insignifi- 
cance. Yet  they  were  assured  that  these  were 
greatly  surpassed  by  what  were  preserved  in  the 
apartments  of  the  ladies,  to  which  they  were  not 
allowed  to  approach. 

The  Emperor's  birth-day  formed  a  festival 
which,  according  to  a  Tartar  custom,  of  which 
we  have  seen  examples,  was  distinguished  by  the 
assemblage  of  great  lords  and  ofiicers  of  state  from 
every  extremity  of  the  empire.  Twelve  thou- 
sand Mandarins  are  said  to  have  been  present  at 
the  great  review,  the  troops  at  which  amounted 
to  eighty  thousand.  For  several  days  after,  games 
of  various  kinds,  pantomimes,  dances,  fire-works, 
in  which  the  Chinese  excel,  continued  to  be  ex- 
hibited. 

The  embassy  now  returned  to  Peking,  and 
were  soon  followed  by  the  Emperor,  whom  they 
went  out  in  procession  to  meet.  They  were  sen- 
sible that  their  stay  ought  to  be  drawing  to  a 
period,  especially  as  the  entertainment  afforded 
to  them  was  so  sumptuous  as  must  press  heavily 
on  the  Chinese  finances.     They  soon  found  that 


MACARTNEY.  337 

the  ideas  of  the  imperial  ministry  had  anticipated 
their  own  upon  this  subject.  The  Colao  began 
to  warn  them  of  the  danger  of  being  overtaken 
by  the  ice  ;  and  when  they  hinted  a  desire  to  see 
the  festival  of  the  new-year,  he  assured  them  that 
it  would  exhibit  nothing  beyond  what  they  had  wit- 
nessed at  the  birth-day.  At  length  a  day  was  posi- 
tively named  for  their  audience  of  leave,  which  is 
considered  as  the  immediate  signal  of  departure. 
The  interview  took  place  in  the  audience-hall  of 
Yuen-mien,  a  spacious  apartment,  110  feet  in 
length,  42  in  breadth,  and  20  in  height.  It  is 
built  of  wood,  and  has  as  little  excellence  in  point 
of  architecture  as  materials,  but  possesses  every 
splendour  which  gilding  and  colouring  can  give 
it.  The  answer,  contained  in  a  roll  of  paper 
covered  with  silk,  was  placed  on  a  chair  in  the 
middle  of  the  hall,  for  the  purpose  of  being  con- 
veyed to  the  ambassador's  apartments.  Lord 
Macartney  was  now  solely  occupied  with  prepara-. 
tions  for  his  departure,  and  Suntagin,  an  officer 
of  high  rank,  as  well  as  a  very  courteous  and 
well  informed  person,  was  appointed  to  conduct; 
him  and  his  suite  to  Canton. 

In  sailing  along  the  banks  of  the  Peiho,  the 
embassy  were  struck  with  the  dead  level  of  the 
country  through  which  it  flowed.  The  tide  comes 
up  110  miles,  and  often  causes  the  river  to  over- 
flow.    The  enormous  quantity  of  mud  washed 

VOL.  III.  Y 


338  CHINA. 

down  by  the  Yellow  River,  calculated  at  2,000,000 
solid  feet  in  an  hour,  has  reduced  the  greatest 
depth  of  the  Gulf  of  Pechelee  to  twelve  fathoms, 
and  caused  the  formation  in  it  of  a  number  of 
sandy  islands.     After  passing  through  the  crowd 
of  shipping  at  Tiensing,  they  entered  the  great 
canal,  here  100  feet  wide.     The  country  is  des- 
cribed as  in  only  a  tolerable  state  of  cultivation. 
An  incident  occurred  which  gave  no  very  high 
idea  of  Chinese  humanity.     A  crowd  of  vessels 
being  collected  to  view  them,  one  was  overset,  and 
several  on  board  drowned ;  an  event  which  passed 
without  the  surrounding  barks  taking  the  least 
notice,  or  making  any  effort  to  save  them.    After 
passing   Tiensing,    they   came   to   an    extensive 
morass,  which  being  below  the  level  of  the  canal, 
could   be   used   as   a   drain   for   its   superfluous 
waters.     It  contained   numerous  lakes,  covered 
with  fishing  vessels,  very  busily  employed.     One 
truly  unique  instrument  in  this  trade  was  a  spe- 
cies of  bird  called  leiitze,  about  the  size  of  a  duck, 
which   dived   and   brought  up  fishes  sometimes 
almost  as  large  as  itself.     After   passing   these 
swamps,  they  entered  on  a  most  delightful  coun- 
try, every  spot  of  which  was  cultivated,  except  a 
few   for   ornamental   trees   and   gardens.      The 
canal,  as  they  approached  the  Yellow  River,  pre- 
sented a  grand  spectacle,  being  nearly  1000  feet 
broad,  bordered  with  quays  of  marble  and  granite^, 


MACARTNEY.  3t39 

with  a  continued  range  of  houses ;  while  both 
itself,  and  the  various  minor  canals  branching  out 
from  it,  were  covered  with  crowds  of  shipping.^ 
Some  oblation  was  deemed  needful,  to  propitiate 
the  genius  of  the  Yellow  River,  before  launching 
into  its- rapid  stream.  Fowls,  pigs,  wine,  oil,  tea, 
flour,  rice,  and  salt,  were  the  chief  component 
parts,  and  were  carried  to  the  forecastle,  whence 
the  liquids  were  poured  into  the  river,  while  the 
meat  was  reserved  for  the  table  of  the  captain 
and  crew.  This  river,  though  there  had  not  been 
a  drop  of  rain  for  several  months,  flowed  at  the 
rate  of  seven  or  eight  miles  an  hour,  and  as  thick 
and  muddy  as  if  torrents  had  just  fallen.  A 
voyage  of  about  a  hundred  miles  brought  them 
to  the  Yang-tse-kiang  ;  but  this  grand  and  beau- 
tiful stream  flowed  so  gently,  that  no  propitiatory 
oflering  was  judged  requisite.  The  appearance 
of  the  country  was  now  superior  to  all  that  they 
had  yet  seen.  The  fleets  of  vessels  of  every  des- 
cription moving  to  and  fro,  the  continued  succes- 
sion of  cities,  towns,  and  villages,  the  varied 
aspect  and  high  cultivation  of  the  lands,  produced 
a  truly  striking  combination.  At  Soutcheoufou, 
they  sailed  three  hours  through  the  suburbs  be- 
fore arriving  at  the  city.  Here,  and  in  the  sur- 
rounding places,  the  inhabitants  appeared  more 
opulent  and  cheerful  than  in  the  northern  pro- 
vinces, and  were  usually  well  dressed  in  silk. 


34?0  CHINA. 

The  ladies  were  handsomer,  and  shewed  them- 
selves with  much  less  reserve ;  which,  however, 
was  somewhat  discreditably  accounted  for,  by  the 
statement  that  the  concubines  of  the  Mandarins 
and  great  men  throughout  China  were  chiefly 
drawn  from  that  neighbourhood,  and  were  there 
trained  to  fulfil  that  destination. 

The  next  great  town  at  which  the  embassy 
arrived,  was  Hang-tchoofou,  the  celebrated  Quin- 
sai  of  Marco  Polo.  Even  in  its  decline  it  struck 
them  with  high  admiration.  In  magnitude  it  ap- 
peared almost  to  rival  Peking.  They  describe,  in 
terms  almost  as  glowing  as  his,  the  magic  beauties 
of  its  lake,  the  numerous  pleasure  parties  which 
covered  it,  the  gilded  barges  with  floating  stream- 
ers sailing  to  and  froy  with  the  aerial  pavillions 
with  which  its  margin  was  studded.  At  Hang- 
tchoofou  the  canal  terminates  j  and  they  now 
ascended  a  river,  through  whose  pebbly  stream 
the  barges  were  dragged  almost  by  main  force. 
They  crossed  a  small  neck  of  land,  in  order  to 
reach  another  river  which  fell  into  the  Poyang 
lake.  Having  thus  reached  the  Kan-kiang,  they 
were  conveyed  up  its  stream  to  that  ridge  of 
lofty  mountains  which  forms  the  boundary  of 
Quangtong,  and  all  the  southern  provinces.  Ano- 
ther short  land  journey  over  a  high  portion  of 
this  chain,  called  Melin,  brought  them  to  the 


MACARTNEY.  341 

Peikiangho,  which  flows  to  Canton.  The  stream 
was  at  first  so  shallow,  that  it  could  be  navigated 
only  by  small  barges ;  and  the  country  round  was 
in  an  extraordinary  degree  wild,  mountainous, 
and  barren.  The  summits  of  the  cliffs  were  often 
seen  almost  touching  each  other  above  the  river, 
so  that  they  sailed  as  through  immense  caverns. 
Extensive  mines  of  coal  were  working  in  this  de- 
file. On  entering  Quangtong,  the  embassy  exr 
perienced  a  mortifying  change  from  that  respect- 
ful courtesy  with  which  they  had  elsewhere  been 
treated,  to  an  extremely  rude  and  insolent  beha- 
viour. The  very  peasantry  bawled  out  of  their 
houses,  ImpSy  foreign  devils.  This  contempt  of 
strangers,  which  always  increased  as  they  ap- 
proached nearer  to  Canton,  was  considered  as 
clearly  emanating  from  that  city,  and  as  the  fruit 
of  the  habits  there  prevalent.  In  this  city,  the 
lowest  Chinese  who  hires  himself  to  an  European 
in  the  most  menial  capacity,  makes  a  faithful  ser- 
vant, but  still  considers  his  master  as  many  de- 
grees beneath  him  in  the  scale  of  existence. 
Their  official  conductors,  however,  were  uni- 
formly respectful  and  attentive,  and  seemed  in 
the  end  to  become  extremely  attached  to  them. 
One  of  them  calculated  that  the  embassy  had 
cost  the  Emperor  L.  173,000,  while  the  whole 
expense  to  England  had  been  L. 80,000. 


342  CHINA. 

The  embassy  of  Lord  Macartney  having  failed 
in  its  object,  no  farther  official  intercourse  took 
place  till  the  recent  embassy  of  Lord  Amherst. 
Some  differences  had  taken  place  with  the  Canton 
provincial  government,  in  which  the  latter  indeed 
were  obliged  to  yield,  but  which  inspired  the 
Company  with  a  wish  to  open  a  direct  communi- 
cation with  the  court,  and  to  obtain  thus  an  ap- 
peal from  the  caprices  of  the  local  government. 
With  this  view,  they  proposed  to  the  British  Go- 
vernment that  an  embassy  should  be  sent  from 
the  Prince  Regent  to  the  Emperor,  of  which  they 
undertook  to  defray  the  expense.  This  proposal 
was  readily  acceded  to  j  an  embassy  was  prepar- 
ed, at  the  head  of  which  was  placed  Lord  Am- 
herst. Mr  Elphinston  and  Sir  George  Staunton, 
who  held  the  highest  situations  in  the  factory  at 
Canton,  were  to  occupy  the  second  and  third 
places  in  the  commission  ;  but  in  case  either  of 
these  gentlemen  should  happen  to  be  absent,  Mr 
EUis  went  out  to  fill  the  station  thus  left  unoccu- 
pied. On  reaching  Canton,  they  were  joined 
only  by  Sir  George  Staunton,  who  took  the  se- 
cond place,  and  Mr  Ellis  the  third.  They  were 
accompanied  also  by  several  members  of  the 
factory,  and  among  others  by  Mr  Morrison,  a 
gentleman  well  skilled  in  the  Chinese  language, 
and  who  acted  as  interpreter.  The  viceroy  and 
the  Portuguese  at  Macao  shewed  an  unfriendly 


AMHERST.  343 

disposition,  and  spread  unfavourable  rumours ; 
but,  before  leaving  Canton,  the  embassy  received 
a  communication  from  the  Emperor,  expressing 
the  most  cordial  welcome,  and  assurances  of  a 
favourable  reception.  In  the  end  of  July  they  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho.  They  were  soon 
waited  upon  by  three  Mandarins,  two  of  whom, 
Chang  and  Yin,  had  the  one  a  blue  and  the  other 
a  red  button,  which  indicated  high  rank.  The 
third,  Kwang,  had  only  a  crystal  button,  but  as 
Chinchae  or  Imperial  Commissioner,  he  took  pre- 
cedence of  the  other  two.  Indications  of  Chinese 
haughtiness  were  occasionally  manifested  j  but, 
upon  the  whole,  theybehaved  witli  tolerable  polite- 
ness, and  arrangements  were  made  for  the  disem- 
barkation and  voyage  up  the  river.  An  early  op- 
portunity, however,  was  taken  of  introducing  the 
subject  of  the  Kotou.  The  question  as  to  the 
performance  of  this  ceremony  had  come  under 
the  consideration  of  the  Government  at  home ; 
and  the  instructions  given  to  the  ambassadors 
seem  to  have  been  very  judicious.  They  were  to 
adhere,  if  possible,  to  the  precedent  of  Lord  Ma- 
cartney, who  had  obtained  access  to  the  imperial 
presence  without  the  performance  of  a  ceremony 
so  revolting  to  European  ideas.  At  the  same 
time  Lord  Amherst  was  left  at  liberty  to  act  as 
circumstances  at  the  moment  might  seem  to  dic- 
tate J  in  short,  should  it  seem  advisable,  the  Ko- 


34>4s  CHINA. 

tou  was  to  be  performed.  On  the  other  hand. 
Sir  George  Staunton,  and  the  other  members  of 
the  Canton  factory,  objected  to  it  in  the  most 
decided  manner,  as  likely  to  produce  injurious 
effects,  by  lowering  the  English  character  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Chinese.  The  first  questions  were 
prudently  evaded  by  Lord  Amherst,  who  merely 
said,  that  every  thing  proper  and  respectful 
would  be  done.  The  embassy  and  suite  were 
therefore  embarked  on  the  Peiho  ;  and  it  was 
soon  intimated,  that  at  Tiensing  an  imperial  ban- 
quet awaited  them.  The  pleasure  afforded  by 
this  testimony  of  respect  was  damped  by  the  inti- 
mation, that  they  were  expected  to  perform  the 
grand  ceremony  in  presence  of  the  dinner,  in 
the  same  manner  as  if  his  Imperial  Majesty  had 
presided,  which  he  was  judged  to  do,  having 
given  the  entertainment.  This  proposition  was 
rejected  by  Lord  Amherst  in  the  most  decided 
terms  ;  he  refused  even  to  kneel  before  the  ma- 
jesty of  the  table  ;  and,  after  long  discussion,  the 
Chinese  compounded  for  nine  bows,  to  corres- 
pond with  the  nine  prostrations,  which  they  them- 
selves made.  The  dinner  was  handsome,  after 
the  Chinese  manner ;  and  they  continued  their 
voyage  up  the  river  to  Tong-chow,  the  port  of 
Peking.  During  the  voyage  and  the  residence 
there,  the  Kotou  was  almost  a  perpetual  subject 
of  discussion  j  and  the  Mandarins,  spared  no  ur- 


AMHERST.  345 

gency  which  could  induce  Lord  Amherst  to  agree 
to  it.  They  even  made  the  most  solemn  and  re- 
peated asseverations  that  it  had  been  performed 
by  Lord  Macartney ;  and  they  had  the  unparal- 
leled effrontery  to  appeal  to  Sir  George  Staunton, 
who  had  been  then  present,  for  the  truth  of  their 
statement.  Finally,  they  brought  forward  an  im- 
perial edict,  in  which  the  same  assertion  was 
made.  The  ambassadors  extricated  themselves 
as  politely  as  possible  from  the  embarrassing  situ- 
ation in  which  they  were  placed  by  these  scanda- 
lous falsehoods.  Sir  George  evaded  the  referen- 
ces made  to  him  ;  and  Lord  Amherst  steadily 
referred  to  the  archives  of  the  former  embassy, 
which  bore  that  no  such  ceremony  had  been  per- 
formed. To  the  first  band  of  solicitors  was  now 
added  HoOy  whom  Mr  Ellis  terms  a  duke,  though 
the  expression,  we  think,  cannot  be  properly  ap- 
plied in  China,  where  there  exists  no  high  here- 
ditary rank  corresponding  to  the  idea  which  we 
attach  to  it.  This  duke,  as  he  is  called,  began 
by  endeavouring  to  carry  his  point  by  roughness 
and  blustering ;  but  finding  that  these  produced 
no  effect,  he  assumed  a  more  conciliatory  tone, 
and  held  out  high  prospects,  almost  assurances, 
of  solid  marks  of  imperial  favour,  which  would 
follow  upon  this  point  being  conceded.  Lord 
Amherst  and  Mr  Ellis  were  inclined  to  yield  ;  but 
Sir  George  Staunton  having  held  a  formal  consuU 


34?6  CHINA. 

tation  with  the  Canton  members  of  the  mission, 
gave  it  as  his  and  their  decided  opinion,  that 
compHance  would  prove  more  injurious  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  Company  in  China  than  any  conces- 
sion which  could  be  hoped  for.  The  resolution 
of  refusing  it  was,  therefore,  irrevocably  fixed. 
The  Chinese  officers  did  all  in  their  power  to 
induce  the  ambassador  to  change  his  resolution  ; 
but  when  it  appeared  immoveable,  they  seemed  to 
yield  the  point,  and  said  that  the  Emperor  would 
receive  them  on  their  own  terms,  by  which  kneeling 
upon  one  knee  was  to  be  substituted  for  the  Kotou. 
The  object  was  now  to  hasten  their  departure, 
which,  through  the  exertions  of  the  Chinese,  took 
place  on  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  of  August. 
They  travelled  that  evening  and  the  whole  night 
round  the  walls  of  Peking,  not  being  admitted 
into  the  city.  Soon  after  day-break  they  arrived 
at  the  palace  of  Yuen-mien,  where  the  Emperor 
then  was.  They  were  ushered  into  a  small  apart- 
ment, filled  with  Princes  of  the  blood,  Mandarins 
of  all  buttons,  and  other  spectators.  Chang,  one 
of  their  ordinary  attendants,  then  came  and  an- 
nounced the  Emperor's  wish  to  admit  them  to  an 
immediate  audience.  Lord  Amherst  objected,  on 
the  ground  of  his  exhausted  state,  and  want  of  all 
proper  equipments.  Chang  finding  all  argument 
ineffectual,  reluctantly  carried  the  information  to 
Hoo,  who  sent  repeated  messages,  and  at  last 


AMHERST.  347 

came  himself,  and  exhausted  every  form  of  argu- 
ment or  entreaty  to  induce  Lord  Amherst  to  en- 
ter. At  length,  with  a  shew  of  friendly  violence, 
he  made  a  movement  to  draw  him  in,  which  was 
very  properly  resisted.  The  ambassador  then  re- 
paired to  the  apartments  provided  for  him. 

The  principle  of  the  Chinese  government  is  to 
make  every  officer  responsible  for  the  success  of 
the  affairs  intrusted  to  him,  with  very  little  in- 
quiry whether  they  have  failed  through  his  own 
fault,  or  from  unavoidable  causes.  This  had  led 
to  the  eagerness  of  the  Mandarins  for  the  per- 
formance of  the  ceremony,  and  it  now  made  them 
dread  being  punished  for  the  disrespect  shewn  to 
their  imperial  master.  Their  usual  system  of  de- 
ception was  resorted  to.  The  Emperor  was  told 
that  the  ambassador  had  been  seized  with  a  sud- 
den illness,  which  rendered  it  impossible  for  him 
to  appear  in  his  Majesty's  presence.  This  passed 
off  well.  The  Emperor  delayed  the  interview, 
and  permitted  the  British  to  retire  into  a  neigh- 
bouring house,  where  ample  accommodation  was 
provided.  Unfortunately,  he  added  the  farther 
kindness  of  sending  his  own  chief  physician  to 
assist  in  their  cure.  That  person  found  Lord 
Amherst  in  the  most  perfect  health,  and  with  no 
visible  impediment  to  have  prevented  him  from 
appearing  at  Court ;  which  being  reported  to  the 
Emperor,  sealed  the  fate  of  the  embassy.    Li  two 


348  CHINA. 

hours  an  order  arrived  to  set  out  for  Canton  with- 
out a  moment's  delay ;  and  no  plea  of  fatigue 
being  listened  to,  the  party  were  obliged  to  set 
out  by  four  of  the  same  day.  On  their  arrival  at 
Tong-chow,  they  found  the  triumphal  arch  which 
had  been  raised  to  celebrate  their  arrival  thrown 
down,  and  the  house  provided  for  their  reception 
shut  up.  Their  fallen  state  fully  appeared,  when 
a  beggar,  who  had  risen  up  as  Lord  Amherst 
passed,  was  ordered  to  resume  his  seat.  Yet,  in 
the  course  of  their  voyage  down  the  canal,  an 
edict  arrived,  in  which  the  Emperor  complained 
of  having  been  deceived,  and  directed  that  the 
English  should  be  treated  more  favourably.  On 
their  arrival  at  Canton,  however,  they  found  a 
new  edict,  in  which  they  were  bitterly  reproached 
for  the  disrespect  shewn  by  refusing  the  offered 
audience.  The  viceroy  was  instructed  to  treat 
them  with  marked  coldness,  and  even  to  give 
them  a  sharp  reprimand. 

In  China,  where  nothing  changes,  a  new  tra- 
veller can  see  little  that  has  not  been  seen  before. 
It  was  impossible  that  the  present  embassy  should 
add  much  to  the  copious  details  of  the  missiona- 
ries and  Sir  George  Staunton,  and  the  living  pic- 
ture drawn  by  Mr  Barrow.  Indeed  Mr  Ellis, 
though  his  remarks  are  correct  and  sensible,  does 
not  appear  to  us  to  have  been  smitten  with  the 
true   exploratory   spirit.      He    sailed,    howeverj. 


AMHERST — HALL.  S49 

down  the  great  river  Yang-tse-kiang,  which  he 
describes  as  truly  majestic,  and  decidedly  supe- 
rior to  the  better  known  stream  of  the  Hoangho, 
or  Yellow  River.  This  entirely  agrees  with  the 
account  long  ago  given  by  Marco  Polo,  who  re- 
presents it  as  the  greatest  then  known  in  the 
world.  The  embassy  had  also  an  opportunity  of 
viewing  the  noble  scenery  of  the  Poyang  Lake. 
An  extensive  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  with 
mountains,  is  a  feature  not  unknown  to  ourselves. 
But  these  mountains,  covered  to  the  summit  with 
woods  and  varied  vegetation,  crowned  with  pa- 
godas, and  with  vast  cities  stretching  along  their 
feet,  must  have  formed  a  combination  of  gran- 
deur, which  scarcely,  perhaps,  any  other  part  of 
the  globe  can  equal. 

We  now  hasten  to  th.at  part  of  the  expedition 
which  presents  by  much  the  most  interesting  re- 
sults in  the  view  of  discovery.  This  was  the  re- 
turn of  the  Alceste  and  Lyra  to  Canton,  which 
they  performed  by  a  route  hitherto  unknown  to 
European  navigators.  A  very  pleasing  account 
is  given  of  it  by  Lieutenant  Macleod  of  the  Al- 
ceste ;  and  a  more  elaborate,  scientific,  and  truly 
interesting  one  by  Captain  Hall  of  the  Lyra,  son 
to  Sir  James  Hall,  President  of  the  Royal  Society 
of  Edinburgh,  a  gentleman  to  whom  science  is 
deeply  indebted.     The  vessels  began  by  making 


350  CHINA. 

the  circuit  of  the  Gulf  of  Pechelee,  which  brought 
them  upon  the  coast  of  Corea.  They  discovered 
3  group  of  islands,  to  which  Captain  Hall  gave 
his  father's  name.  They  landed  ;  but  the  only 
intercourse  which  they  could  obtain  with  the  in- 
habitants consisted  in  signs  made  by  the  latter, 
expressive  of  the  most  eager  wish  that  they  should 
go  away  ;  one  of  which  consisted  in  blowing  a 
piece  of  paper  in  the  same  direction  with  the 
wind,  and  pointing  to  the  ships.  The  English 
were  at  length  obliged  to  comply,  and  landed  on 
another  part  of  the  coast,  where  they  could  obtain 
no  courtesy  till  they  turned  their  backs  to  regain 
the  ships,  when  the  natives  shewed  the  utmost 
alacrity  in  helping  them  over  every  impediment. 
They  now  came  to  a  very  populous  part  of  the 
coast,  and  resolved  to  make  another  attempt  to 
attain  a  footing  on  land.  As  soon  as  they  put  out 
their  boats,  a  number  came  rowing  from  the  shore 
to  meet  them  ;  and  they  soon  distinguished  one 
personage,  whose  dress  and  deportment  announc- 
ed him  as  a  chief.  He  was  an  old  man  of  vene- 
rable appearance,  with  a  beard  reaching  below 
his  middle, — a  robe  of  immense  size  flowing  round 
him,  and  a  hat  of  enormous  brim,  reaching  more 
than  three  feet  across.  He  received  them  gra- 
ciously, but,  on  their  proposing  to  go  on  shore, 
intimated  the  most  decided  preference  in  favour 
of  proceeding  towards  the  ship.    The  British  com- 


HALL.  351 

plied ;  and  he  was,  with  great  difficulty,  hauled 
up  with  his  bulky  appendages,  and  placed  upon 
deck.  He  then  shewed  extreme  satisfaction,  and 
endeavoured  to  enter  into  conversation  ;  but  it 
soon  proved  that  signs  were  the  only  possible 
mode  of  communication.  He  behaved,  however, 
with  great  courtesy  and  gaiety ;  eat  and  drank 
after  the  English  fashion ;  and  searched  every 
corner  of  the  ship  with  eager  curiosity,  though  to 
explore  some  of  them  he  was  obliged,  with  great 
reluctance,  to  lay  aside  his  hat  of  state.  After 
several  interviews,  the  English  pressed  so  ear- 
nestly the  proposition  of  returning  his  visit  on 
shore,  that  he  found  himself  obliged  to  comply. 
No  sooner,  however,  had  the  landing  taken  place, 
than  his  countenance  changed,  and  he  was  soon 
seen  melting  into  tears.  The  party  proceeded 
towards  a  village  in  sight ;  but  the  old  man  soon 
began  crying  violently,  and  at  length  sobbed,  and 
even  bellowed  aloud.  The  English,  entreating 
to  know  the  cause  of  such  direful  affliction,  he 
made  a  long  speech,  in  which  nothing  was  intelli- 
gible except  the  sign  of  passing  his  hand  fre- 
quently across  his  neck,  which  was  understood  to 
intimate  that  his  head  was  in  danger.  Every 
attempt  to  abate  his  agony  having  proved  un- 
availing, there  remained  no  choice  but  to  return 
to  the  ship.     He  appeared  then  ashamed  of  his 

'28 


352  CHINA. 

conduct,  but  made  no  attempt  to  repair  it  by  in- 
viting them  again  on  shore. 

The  expedition  proceeded  southwards ;  but  they 
were  soon  surprised  to  find,  that  what  had  been 
supposed  to  be  the  coast  of  Corea,  was  in  fact  a 
numerous  collection  of  small  islands,  the  exist- 
ence of  which  had  been  hitherto  unknown.  The 
number  of  these  islands  baffled  all  calculation. 
From  a  high  point  which  they  reached  in  one  of 
the  group,  they  could  count  a  hundred  and 
twenty  in  sight,  and,  during  a  course  of  upwards 
of  a  hundred  miles,  the  sea  continued  as  closely 
studded  with  them.  There  does  not,  perhaps, 
exist  in  the  world  such  an  archipelago  of  islets. 
Wherever  they  landed,  the  same  eager  anxiety 
was  shewn  for  their  re-embarkation  j  so  that  there 
seems  no  doubt  that  the  Corean  government  is  as 
rigidly  adverse  to  the  admission  of  strangers  as 
those  of  China  and  Japan. 

The  vessels  now  left  the  shore,  and,  after  a  con- 
siderable run,  passed  a  volcanic  island,  called 
Sulphur  Island ;  but  the  surf  prevented  them 
from  landing.  They  soon  after  came  in  sight  of 
the  great  island  of  Lieu  Kieu,  or,  as  Captain  Hall 
calls  it.  Loo  Choo.  The  very  first  view  of  it  in- 
spired a  pleasing  sentiment,  as  it  resembled,  ac- 
cording to  Mr  Macleod*s  description,  rather  the 
environs  of  the  finest  country-seats  in  England, 
than  the  shores  of  a  remote  and  unknown  island. 


Hall.  363 

The  deportment  of  the  people  soon  confirmed 
every  favourable  impression.  Several  canoes  came 
up,  which  handed  water,  provisions,  and  fish, 
without  asking,  or  seeming  to  expect  any  return. 
Their  manners  were  at  once  gentle,  and  cere- 
moniously respectful :  they  uncovered  their  heads 
in  presence  of  the  English,  and  bowed  whenever 
they  spoke.  The  shore  was  soon  covered  with 
spectators  ;  and  the  ships  were  visited  by  several 
chiefs,  who  behaved  in  the  frankest  and  kindest 
manner.  When,  however,  the  English  began  to 
make  overtures  for  returning  these  visits  on  shore, 
every  mode  of  polite  evasion  was  studiously  em- 
ployed. They  pretended  to  consider  themselves 
so  much  inferior  to  their  new  acquaintances,  as  to 
have  no  claim  to  such  a  return,  which  would  even, 
they  said,  have  degraded  the  English.  Captain 
Maxwell  having  complained  of  illness,  they  oflfer- 
ed  to  send  a  physician  on  board  ;  and  when  he 
said  that  his  physician  had  recommended  a  ride 
on  shore,  they  merely  laughed,  and  changed  the 
subject.  After  several  visits,  however,  the  Cap- 
tain pushed  the  offer  so  home,  that  they  could 
not  reject  it  without  an  open  breach.  Five  of  the 
officers  accordingly  landed,  and  were  received 
with  much  ceremony,  being  led  by  the  chiefs 
through  two  files  of  people,  ranged  on  each  side 
for  the  purpose  of  viewing  them.  They  soon 
reached  a  temple,  where  they  found  a  large  ja- 

VOL.  III.  z 


354  CHINA. 

panned  table  spread,  and  were  regaled  with  a 
dinner,  consisting  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  fish  fried 
in  butter,  smoked  pork,  pig's  liver  sliced,  several 
kinds  of  cakes,  and  other  dishes,  most  of  which 
were  found  palatable.  The  entertainment  was 
conducted  with  much  gaiety  and  good  humour. 
It  was  still  in  vain  that  they  solicited  permission 
to  land  their  stores,  and  to  take  up  their  quarters 
on  shore,  for  the  benefit  of  health  and  exercise. 
This,  however,  was  at  length  brought  about. 
The  natives  had  at  first  recommended  a  harbour 
ten  miles  to  the  southward  ;  but  their  new  vi- 
sitors, when  better  known,  becoming  daily  more 
agreeable,  they  shewed  no  wish  to  part,  and 
always  shunned  furnishing  the  promised  guide  to 
this  new  station.  One  morning,  howev^er,  the 
Lyra  disappeared,  and  they  found,  on  inquiry,  that 
it  had  gone  to  reconnoitre  the  harbour  in  ques- 
tion. The  dread  of  losing  the  English  altogether 
made  all  their  demands  be  at  once  agreed  to. 
They  were  received  on  shore,  and  commodiously 
lodged  in  a  large  temple.  Their  range,  however, 
was  always  confined  within  the  narrowest  possi- 
ble limits.  They  saw  at  a  distance  a  large  build- 
ing, which  they  had  reason  to  believe  was  the 
King's  palace ;  but  all  positive  information  on 
the  subject  was  steadily  withheld.  At  the  same 
time,  the  intimacy  and  cordiality  of  the  English 
with  the  natives  daily  augmented.     They  had  a 


HALL.  355 

Chinese  interpreter,  so  that  they  could  communi- 
cate from  the  first  by  words  ;  and  both  parties  soon 
made  great  progress  in  each  other's  language. 
The  most  interesting  personage  was  a  young  man 
of  the  name  of  Madera,  who  appeared  first  as  a 
common  native,  and  associated  with  the  sailors, 
but  gradually  rose  in  consequence,  till  he  proved 
to  be  a  man  of  very  high  rank,  who  had  assumed 
this  disguise  for  the  sake  of  observing  the  stran- 
gers more  intimately.  He  appears  to  have  been 
remarkably  distinguished  by  intelligence,  as  well 
as  by  a  good-humoured,  gay,  and  friendly  dispo- 
sition. Before  leaving  Loo  Choo,  they  were 
visited  by  a  prince  of  the  blood,  a  very  polite  per- 
sonage, but  who  had  nothing  striking  in  his  man- 
ners or  appearance.  On  their  expressing  a  wish 
to  be  introduced  to  the  king,  he  stated,  that  the 
custom  of  the  country  forbade  this,  unless  they 
came  on  an  express  mission  from  their  own  sove- 
reign. The  English  soon  after  took  their  depar- 
ture, which  drew  forth  deep  demonstrations  of 
grief  from  Madera  and  their  other  friends. 

The  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo  appear,  indeed, 
to  be  a  very  interesting  people.  In  their  manners 
and  political  state,  they  seem  to  hold  a  middle 
place  between  the  people  of  China  and  those  of 
the  South  Sea  islands,  and,  by  a  rare  good  for- 
tune, to  have  united  the  good  qualities  of  both, 
without  the  faults  of  either  :    They  combine  the 


356  CHINA. 

civilization  of  the  one  race  with  the  simplicity  of 
the  other.  There  was  every  reason  to  believe 
that  they  were  unacquainted  both  with  arms  and 
with  money.  Their  honesty  was  quite  unim- 
peachable. Although  they  had  free  access  to 
every  part  of  the  ship,  and  of  the  temple  in  which 
the  stores  were  afterwards  placed,  no  instance  of 
pilfering  was  ever  observed  ;  and  when  any  thing 
was  missing,  no  one  ever  suspected  that  it  could 
have  been  carried  off  by  the  natives.  They  are  a 
gay  and  social  people,  carry  about  their  dinner  in 
boxes,  and  have  frequent  pic-nic  parties  among 
themselves.  They  appeared  to  enjoy  much  the 
hospitality  of  the  ship,  and  did  not  always  con- 
fine themselves  within  the  most  rigid  rules  of 
temperance.  The  population  could  not  be  con- 
jectured. The  part  of  the  island  immediately 
under  observation  was  highly  fertile  and  cultivat- 
ed, but  the  opposite  side  was  understood  to  be 
much  less  improved. 

There  may  be  now  room  for  some  general  re- 
marks on  the  Chinese  empire. 

The  population  of  China  has  been  always  a 
subject  of  much  wonder  and  speculation.  The 
number  of  33J,000,000,  which  was  given  by  a 
Mandarin  to  Lord  Macartney,  as  founded  on 
official  dataj  seems  given  up  on  all  hands  as 
an   empty  vaunt.      It   is   by  much   the  largest 


POPULATION.  357 

ever  given.  Mendoza,  who  collected  the  re- 
ports of  the  Spanish  friars,  and  stands  accused  of 
great  exaggeration,  reports  the  persons  paying 
taxes  only  at  40,500,000,  which,  taking  the  per- 
haps high  average  of  five  to  a  family,  would  not 
give  more  than  200,000,000.  It  is  certain,  that 
with  a  view  to  taxation,  the  census  is  very  fre- 
quently taken  ;  but  besides  being  liable  to  inac- 
curacies, it  is  studiously  concealed,  and  often  mis- 
stated. Some  enumerations  have  reduced  the 
population  to  between  50  and  60,000,000 ;  but, 
upon  the  whole,  the  accounts  deserving  of  great- 
est credit  seem  to  place  it  somewhere  about 
150,000,000.  This  amount,  compared  with  the 
dimensions  of  China,  does  not  exceed  the  propor- 
tion of  100  to  tlie  square  mile — no  very  extraor- 
dinary density,  when  compared  to  districts,  and 
even  kingdoms  of  Europe ;  yet  probably  no  other 
continuous  extent  of  land  throughout  the  globe 
contains  so  great  a  population.  Certainly  no 
number  nearly  so  great  is  anywhere  united  under 
one  government. 

In  comparing  the  Hindoos  and  Chinese,  the 
two  most  numerous  and  polished  nations  of  Asia, 
we  are  struck  at  first  with  a  certain  general  re- 
semblance. They  both  exhibit  the  same  smooth 
and  polished  surface  of  character.  Both  are  dis- 
tinguished by  quietude,  courtesy,  domesticity ; 
and  more  unfavourably  by  meanness,  cowardice, 


358  CHINA. 

deceit,  and  dishonesty.  On  the  other  hand,  there 
are  other  points  in  which  they  appear  even  as 
strikingly  contrasted.  The  literary  and  specula- 
tive pursuits  in  particular  of  the  two  nations  have 
taken  an  entirely  different  direction.  Perhaps 
the  fundamental  distinction  consists  in  religion, 
or  rather  superstition,  forming  in  the  one  the 
basis  of  literature  and  of  political  society,  while 
in  the  other  it  is  excluded  from  both.  The  mind 
of  the  Hindoo  soars  continually  in  the  clouds,  and 
amid  objects  beyond  the  limits  of  earth ;  while 
that  of  the  Chinese  is  always  absorbed  in  the  ob- 
jects of  common  life,  and  directed  towards  pur- 
poses of  plain  practical  utility.  The  literature  of 
the  Hindoo  consists  entirely  of  wild  romances 
and  mythological  poetry ;  while  the  Chinese 
have  a  history  extending  back  for  two  thousand 
years,  and  their  lighter  compositions  consist  of  do- 
mestic tales  and  didactic  poetry.  The  ideas  of  the 
one  lose  themselves  in  vague  and  hyperbolical 
grandeur  ;  those  of  the  other  are  cramped  within 
a  narrow  and  confined  sphere.  In  the  abstract 
sciences,  the  Chinese  seem  to  flill  short  even  of 
that  limited  measure  of  excellence  which  the 
Hindoos  have  attained.  Their  swanpan,  formed  of 
balls  strung  on  wires,  is  far  behind  the  arithmeti- 
cal digits  ;  and  the  astronomical  observations  for 
the  imperial  calendar  have  been  long  made  by 
foreigners.     Their  scale  of  mechanical  arts  is  dif- 


MANUFACTURES.  359 

ferent,   but  on  the  whole  not  inferior.      Their 
silks  and  satins  indeed,    though    excellent,   can 
scarcely  bear  a  comparison  with  the  splendour  of 
the  cotton  fabrics  of  Indostan  ;  but  their  porce- 
lain surpasses,  in  the  excellence  of  its  material, 
and  the  brightness  of  its  colours,  all  the  imitations 
which  Europeans  have  laboured  to  make.     Their 
paintings  are  distinguished  by  colouring  and  close 
imitation  of  nature,  though  the  design  is  poor, 
and  they  have  not  the  least  idea  of  perspective. 
Mr  Barrow  enumerates,  as  minor  articles  in  which 
they  excel,  their  transparent  horn  lanterns,  their 
cutting  of  ivory  into  fans,  baskets,  and  toys,  their 
silver  fillagree,  their  lacquered  wares,  only  infe- 
rior to  those  of  Japan,  their  ornamented  furniture, 
their  ink,  which  is  an  object  of  export  to  Europe, 
and  their  paper  used  in  printing,  which  may  chal- 
lenge ours.    Their  agricultural  implements  are  as 
poor  as  those  of  Indostan  ;  but  they  carry  the 
process  of  irrigation  to  a  still  greater  extent,  and 
they  collect  manure  with  almost  ludicrous  dili- 
gence.    Tea,  the  most  characteristic  produce  of 
China,  is  cultivated  to  a  great  extent  only  in  a 
few  of  the  mountainous  provinces.     It  undergoes 
the  process  of  roasting  in  iron  pans  ;  the  greater 
or  less  extent  of  which  process  gives  rise  to  the 
difference  between  the  black  and  the  green  teas. 
The  most  prominent  feature  in  Chinese  policy, 
and  which  appears  at  first  to  exalt  it  above  that 


360  CHINA. 

of  Europe,  is  the  high  place  assigned  to  learning. 
Proficiency  in  study  is  the  essential  qualification 
for  high  office ;  the  candidates  for  which  undergo 
a  course  of  examinations,  much  more  extensive 
and  severe  than  await  an  European  entering  upon 
any  of  the  learned  professions.  It  is  not  said  that 
these  examinations  are  carried  on  with  any  very 
gross  partiaHty.  Such  a  system,  it  might  be  sup- 
posed, would  lead  to  great  progress  in  the  arts 
and  sciences ;  but  the  real  effect  appears  to  be 
directly  contrary.  This  official  learning  is  neces- 
sarily connected  with  the  formation  of  standards, 
which  it  would  be  contrary  to  every  maxim  of 
state  to  alter.  These  have  continued  the  same 
for  two  thousand  years,  and  may  probably  conti- 
nue so  for  two  thousand  years  more  ;  during  all 
which  time  science,  so  far  as  political  influence  is 
concerned,  remains  completely  stationary.  The 
Chinese,  however,  impelled  by  such  strong  mo- 
tives, learn  with  great  diligence  the  science,  such 
as  it  is,  which  leads  to  these  high  honours.  A 
taste  for  letters  is  universally  diffused  ;  there  are 
schools  in  every  village  ;  and  education  may  be 
obtained  at  a  very  cheap  rate.  The  press  is  even 
free,  at  least  as  to  the  first  publication,  though 
the  severest  chastisement  doubtless  awaits  those 
who  use  this  privilege  in  any  manner  hostile  to 
government  j  indeed  any  thing  so  daring  scarcely 
ever  enters  the  mind  of  a  Chinese. 


LANGUAGE.  ^361 

It  is  probably  the  cause  now  stated  which  has 
arrested  the  Chinese  language  in  the  present  sin- 
gular stage  of  its  progress  from  hieroglyphics  to 
the  use  of  an  alphabetic  writing.  Every  word, 
instead  of  being  expressed  by  the  varied  combi- 
nations of  a  few  letters,  has  a  distinct  character 
of  its  own.  It  is  not  wonderful  that  the  view  of 
this  crowd  of  varied  symbols  should  have  struck, 
the  early  missionaries  with  consternation,  and 
have  made  them  represent  this  acquisition  as  a 
task  equal  to  the  duration  of  human  life.  The 
labours  of  several  of  our  learned  countrymen  have 
untied  in  a  great  measure  this  Gordian  knot. 
They  have  shewn  that  all  these  characters  may 
be  reduced  to  214  simple  marks,  one  of  which 
must  enter  into  the  composition  of  every  single 
word.  In  the  Dictionary  constructed  by  Mr 
Morrison  these  marks  are  used  like  letters,  as 
heads  under  which  the  different  words  may  be 
arranged.  A  more  elegant,  though  less  precise 
analysis,  has  been  formed  into  417  characters, 
which  represent  natural  objects  and  simple  ideas, 
by  the  often  fanciful  combination  of  which,  all 
those  of  a  complex  nature  may  be  expressed.  In 
this  view  Chinese  writing  approximates  to  a  na- 
tural, and  what  might  become  an  universal  lan- 
guage ;  as  in  fact  the  Japanese,  Coreans,  and 
other  neighbouring  nations,  whose  speech  is  en- 
tirelv  different,  use  the  same  written  language. 


362  CHINA. 

The  Chinese  government  encouraging  and  sup- 
porting no  state  religion,  the  people  must  look 
abroad  to  satisfy  this  imperious  want  of  the  hu- 
man soul.  The  system  introduced,  and  almost 
exclusively  professed,  is  that  of  Fo,  a  modification 
of  the  almost  universal  religion  of  Boodh,  or  Bud- 
dha, distinguished  here,  as  elsewhere,  by  numer- 
.  ous  images  of  departed  worthies,  some  of  gigan- 
tic size  ;  by  processions,  bells,  beads,  tapers,  and 
other  external  marks,  which  have  given  to  it  the 
strong  and  often  observed  resemblance  to  the  Ca- 
tholic rites.  The  Christian  religion,  when  its 
teachers  could  find  access,  usually  made  consider- 
able impression  upon  the  people  ;  and  the  Jesuits 
boast  at  one  time  of  300,000  converts.  Their 
career,  however,  was  always  stopped  by  that  hos- 
tility to  change  which  is  so  deeply  fixed  in  the 
ruling  powers.  Perhaps  if  a  Protestant  mission 
could  find  entrance,  their  practices  might  not  give 
such  deadly  offence.  Neither  confession,  nor  the 
high  honours  paid  to  celibacy,  would  here  shock 
the  Chinese  ;  and  if  they  could  grant  indulgence 
to  a  little  amiable  superstition  in  the  honours  paid 
to  deceased  parents,  they  might  introduce  their 
faith  without  any  very  decided  opposition  to  those 
habits,  the  observance  of  which  is  here  consider- 
ed indispensable. 

Among  the  most  prevalent  Chinese  customs  we 
may  number  the  culpable  one  of  exposing  chil- 


CHARACTER.  S6S 

dren,  which  seems  to  be  carried  on  ahnost  under 
public  sanction.  Every  morning  persons  are  em- 
ployed to  go  through  the  streets  of  Peking  to  col- 
lect the  infants  thus  abandoned  by  their  parents. 
Those  exposed  in  the  streets  of  that  city  alone 
have  been  said  to  amount  annually  to  50,000 ; 
and  Mr  Barrow  cannot  reduce  them  lower  than 
9000.  In  the  provinces  the  practice  is  less  ex- 
tensively prevalent.  The  children  exposed  are 
chiefly  female  ;  nor  is  this  the  only  particular  in 
which  disrespect  is  shewn  to  the  fair  sex.  They 
are  treated  in  every  respect  as  inferior  beings,  are 
subjected  to  the  hardest  labour,  and  have  some- 
times even  been  seen  yoked  in  the  plough.  The 
Chinese  proverbs  dwell  much  on  the  disturbance 
which  they  occasion  in  a  household,  complaining 
that  what  has  been  taken  from  their  feet  has  been 
added  to  their  tongue.  In  regard,  however,  to 
this  artificial  reduction  of  the  lower  extremities, 
effected  by  painful  compression  from  their  ear- 
liest years,  it  may  be  questioned  whether  it  be 
intended  as  auxiliary  to  the  system  of  confine- 
ment, or  be  not  rather,  like  the  small  waists  till 
lately  so  prevalent  in  Europe,  the  offspring  of  fan- 
tastic ideas  of  beauty  attached  to  extreme  exility. 
It  certainly,  however,  diminishes  much  the  loco- 
motive power  of  the  fair  sex  in  China. 

In  summing  up  the  general  character  of  the 
Chinese,   Mr  Barrow  begins  by  stating  its  dark 


364  CHINA. 

side,  on  which  he  observes,  that  "  the  boasted 
*'  morality  of  the  Chinese  is  built  on  no  principle 
"  of  feeling  or  propriety  of  action  between  man 
"  and  man  ;  and  where  public  decorum  is  not 
"  offended,  there  is  no  breach  of  moral  duty. 
"  Great  crimes  are  not  common,  but  little  vices 
"  pervade  all  ranks  of  society.  A  Chinese  is  cold, 
"  cunning,  and  distrustful ;  always  ready  to  take 
**  advantage  of  those  he  has  to  deal  with  ;  ex- 
"  tremely  covetous  and  deceitful ;  quarrelsome, 
"  vindictive,  but  timid  and  dastardly."  In  oppo- 
sition to  these  bad  qualities,  he  sets  "  his  sober 
**  and  industrious  habits — submissive  disposition 
*'  — a  mild  and  affable  manner — an  exactness  and 
*'  punctuality  in  all  which  he  undertakes  to  per- 
'*  form.  He  has  at  least  the  merit  of  believing 
**  in  the  God  of  his  fathers — of  obeying  the  com- 
**  mands  of  his  superiors — and  of  honouring  his 
*'  father  and  mother." — Some  very  positive  moral 
and  political  advantages,  says  Sir  George  Staun- 
ton, are  attributable  to  the  system  of  early  and 
universal  marriage  ;  to  the  sacred  regard  that  is 
habitually  paid  to  the  ties  of  kindred  ;  to  the" 
sobriety,  industry,  and  even  intelligence  of  the 
lower  classes  ;  to  the  almost  total  absence  of  feu- 
dal rights  and  privileges  ;  to  the  equitable  distri- 
bution of  landed  property  ;  to  the  natural  inca- 
pacity and  indisposition  of  the  government  and 
people  to  an  indulgence   in   ambitious  projects 


CHARACTER.  365 

and  foreign  conquests  ;  and,  lastly,  to  a  system 
of  penal  laws,  if  not  the  most  just  and  equitable, 
at  least  the  most  comprehensive,  uniform,  and 
suited  to  the  genius  of  the  people  for  whom  it  is 
designed,  perhaps  of  any  that  ever  existed. 


CHAPTER  V. 


JAPAN. 

Portuguese  Missionaries. — Kaempfer. — Thunberg. 
Kruzenstern. — Goloxvnin. 


The  stormy  sea  which  dashes  along  the  eastern 
shores  of  Asia,  is  traversed  from  north  to  south 
by  three  large  islands,  which,  united,  constitute 
one  of  its  most  civilized  and  flourishing  empires. 
The  people,  in  whom  the  external  forms  of  man- 
ners and  society,  and  even  their  bodily  aspect,  in- 
dicate a  Chinese  origin,  display,  however,  a  supe- 
rior character  of  energy  and  intelligence  to  that 
of  almost  any  other  Asiatic  nation.  Our  interest 
with  respect  to  them  can  be  only  partially  grati- 
fied ;  for  amid  the  eager  curiosity  with  which 
foreigners  are  regarded  by  individuals,  they  are 
excluded  by  the  government  with  a  jealousy 
more  than  Chinese.  It  was  not  always  so,  how- 
ever ;  and  till  the  Portuguese  missionaries,  by 
their  imprudent  measures,  excited  the  alarm  of 
the  ruling  power,  they  obtained  much  fuller  ac- 
cess into  Japan,  than  into  any  other  country  of 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  SGj 

the  East.  To  them,  therefore,  we  are  indebted 
for  the  most  copious,  though  not  the  most  judi- 
cious narratives,  on  the  subject  of  this  extremity 
of  the  continent. 

Guzman,  the  leading  historian  of  the  Japanese 
missions,  begins  with  some  general  views  of  that 
country  and  its  people.  The  Japanese,  he  says, 
do  all  things  in  a  manner  opposite  to  Europeans. 
When  we  take  off  our  hats,  they  take  off  their 
shoes  ;  we  rise  up  to  receive  a  visitor,  they  sit 
down  ;  we  dislike  to  see  a  man's  head  bald,  they 
are  at  the  greatest  pains  to  extirpate  the  hair, 
leaving  only  a  small  tuft  on  the  crown.  They 
set  the  greatest  value  upon  things  which  we 
esteem  as  of  none.  An  instance  is  given  of  cer- 
tain cups  or  vessels  (porcelain),  in  which  they 
receive  the  juice  of  an  herb  called  cha  (tea).  For 
one  of  these,  if  old  or  of  fine  quality,  they  will 
give  from  four  to  six  thousand  ducats.  Being 
asked  why  they  gave  so  much  money  for  things 
of  no  value,  they  urged  the  universal  admiration 
of  diamonds  and  precious  stones,  which  were  of 
no  use  whatever,  while  these  were  of  some.  The 
properties  of  this  cha  are  stated  in  very  lofty  and 
exaggerated  terms.  By  drinking  it,  a  man,  it  is 
said,  may  spend  the  whole  night  without  sleep, 
yet  be  as  fresh  in  the  morning  as  if  he  had  enjoy- 
ed the  most  undisturbed  repose.  A  drunk  man, 
by  taking  a  draught,  feels  his  head  as  clear  as  if 


3i)S  JAPAN. 

he  had  not  tasted  a  drop.  The  Japanese,  how- 
ever, have  no  strong  hquor,  except  a  species 
made  of  rice,  and  even  this  is  used  in  very  limit- 
ed quantities.  They  eat  on  the  ground,  upon 
mats  of  palm  leaves,  without  either  cloth,  towel, 
knife  or  fork.  They  eat  with  two  pieces  of  wood 
or  ivory,  which  they  use  so  skilfully,  that  not  a 
crumb  falls  to  the  ground.  They  avoid  milk 
as  if  it  were  warm  blood,  and  cows'  flesh  as  if  it 
were  that  of  horses.  Their  diet  consists  of  rice, 
fish,  and  fowl.  Only  the  principal  houses  are 
built  of  stone  ;  the  rest  of  wood,  the  inside  cedar 
and  cypress,  the  floor  and  walls  covered  with 
mats.  -:> 

Of  all  the  eastern  nations  the  Japanese  are  said 
to  be  the  most  elevated,  both  as  to  character  and 
intellect.  Their  conversion  could  be  effected 
only  by  arguing  with  them,  and  by  resolving 
their  doubts.  They  entertain  a  high  sense  of 
honour,  and  observe  towards  each  other  the  most 
ceremonious  politeness.  Their  courtesies  and 
ceremonies  are  infinite  ;  they  have  many  books 
teaching  how  to  take  a  draught  of  water,  how  to 
give  and  receive  presents,  and  all  the  other  mi- 
nutiae of  behaviour.  Their  chiefs  are  said  not 
so  much  to  resemble  our  Counts  and  Dukes,  as 
tributary  sovereigns  like  those  of  Arragon  and 
Castile.  They  are  supposed  the  entire  proprie- 
tors of  the  land,  part  of  which  they  keep  for  the 

13 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  369 

support  of  themselves  and  families,  and  divide 
the  rest  among  their  nobles,  who  have  vassals 
under  them.  These  princes  have  little  revenue, 
but  they  easily  collect  great  armies  and  nume- 
rous attendants. 

In  regard  to  religion,  the  historian  grieves  to 
say,  that  though  the  devil  obtains  high  reverence 
over  all  the  East,  it  is  in  Japan  that  he  reigns 
with  supreme  and  almost  unrivalled  sway.    After 
this   it  is  somewhat  wonderful    that  he  should 
immediately  proceed  to  lament,  with  more  than 
usual  emphasis,  the  almost  total  impossibility  of 
distinguishing  between  his  ceremonies  and  those 
of  the  Catholic  church.     The  clergy  wear  the 
same  dress  ;  they  have  monasteries,  male  and  fe- 
male ;   and   the   rosary   is   continually   in   their 
hands.     They  preach  from  a  raised  place  like  a 
pulpit,  proving  that  no  one  can  be  saved  out  of 
their  sect.     They  have  three  sects,  one  called 
Xenxus  (Sintos),  chiefly  followed  by  kings  and 
great  lords.     These  do  not  believe  in  a  future 
life,  and  erect  temples  to  deities  who  are  suppo- 
sed to  be  distinguished  by  their  prowess  in  war. 
The  other  two  are  the  adorers  of  Amida  and  of 
Fo,  which,  however,  are  only  two  different  forms 
and   names   of  the   widely  diffused  religion   of 
Boodh.     The  latter,  he  says,  are  obstinate  in  re- 
garding the  book  of  Fo  with  the  same  entire  re- 
verence as  the  Mahometans  do  their  Alcoran.   In 

VOL.  III.  A  a 


370  JAPAN". 

order  to  save  themselves,  they  think  they  need 
only  repeat  five  words,  NamUt  Mio,  Foren,  Qui, 
Quio,  which  no  one  can  comprehend  or  explain 
the  meaning  of.  The  missionaries  suspect  this 
to  be  expressly  contrived  by  the  great  enemy,  so 
as  to  render  it  impossible  to  say  any  thing  in 
their  refutation.  Both  these  sects  distribute  to 
their  votaries  bits  of  paper  covered  with  figures 
of  idols  and  mystic  words,  as  sure  passports  into 
paradise. 

Japan  had  the  honour  of  being  the  great  thea- 
tre of  the  labours  of  St  Francis  Xavier,  the  great 
apostle  of  the  East,  and  in  fact  an  exceedingly 
worthy  and  pious  man.  The  favourable  accounts 
from  Firando,  where  the  Portuguese  had  esta- 
blished a  factory,  induced  him  to  set  sail  for  that 
place  in  a  Japanese  vessel.  Here,  however,  his 
eye  was  grievously  offended  by  the  view  of  a  lit- 
tle deformed  idol,  to  which  the  most  profound 
reverence  was  paid  ;  and  he  was  struck  with  still 
deeper  dismay  on  learning,  that  it  was  to  be  the 
arbiter  as  to  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  voyage. 
The  first  reference  made  was,  whether  they  would 
arrive  in  safety  at  Firando  ?  to  which  the  answer 
was  favourable.  It  was  then  asked,  whether  they 
would  return  in  safety  ?  which  question,  through 
the  artifices  of  the  devil,  received  a  negative.  To 
the  despair  then  of  Xavier,  the  captain  determin- 
ed to  proceed  no  farther  than  Canton.   On  reach- 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  371 

ing  that  port,  however,  they  learned  that  there 
were  enemies'  vessels  in  the  harbour,  and  found 
the  wind  so  prosperous  that  they  were  carried  on 
almost  involuntarily.  Thus  Xavier  saw  with 
triumph  the  deep  laid  plot  which  the  devil  had  laid 
to  prevent  his  reaching  Japan  entirely  frustrated. 
His  first  letters  do  not  indicate  any  strong  motive 
which  that  personage  could  have  to  oppose  so 
strongly  his  arrival.  He  states  himself  to  find 
in  this  situation  only  twp  advantages  ;  first,  that 
whereas  in  every  other  place  there  was  some  so- 
cial enjoyment  or  outward  comfort,  here  nothing 
of  that  nature  occurred  to  distract  the  exclusive 
attention  due  to  his  spiritual  functions.  The  next 
comfort  was,  that  the  religion  which  he  taught 
appeared  to  be  the  object  of  an  enmity  so  deadly, 
as  to  afford  full  assurance  of  severe  suffering,  and 
even  a  distant  hope  of  the  crown  of  martyrdom. 
It  appears  in  fact,  that  the  strangeness  and  po- 
verty of  his  aspect  and  attire  made  him  become 
the  object  of  public  derision  ;  he  was  considered 
as  a  madman,  and  the  boys  amused  themselves  by 
pelting  him  with  stones.  He  him.self  became  at 
last  sensible,  that  in  his  present  uncouth  and  hum- 
ble garb  he  could  never  make  any  impression  up- 
on a  people  who  receive  such  powerful  impres- 
sions from  the  senses.  He  applied  in  this  extre- 
mity to  the  merchants  at  Firando,  whose  zeal 
impelled  them  to  clothe  him  in  somewhat  more 


372  JAPAy. 

seemly  attire.  They  even  furnished  him  with  a 
clock  and  harpsichord,  as  introductory  presents 
to  some  great  man.  Considering  the  extent, 
however,  to  which  the  Firandese  had  committed 
themselves  against  him,  it  appeared  advisable  to 
change  the  scene.  He  repaired  to  Amanguchi, 
where  he  obtained  an  introduction  to  the  King 
or  Governor,  who  was  so  greatly  delighted  with 
these  new  objects,  that  he  granted  him  favour, 
and  full  liberty  to  preach.  A  brilliant  career 
now  opened  to  the  missionaries  ;  they  found  free 
access  to  all  the  neighbouring  districts  of  Bungo, 
Arima,  Satzuma,  &c.  Several  of  the  governors, 
or  tributary  kings,  openly  professed  Christianity. 
The  King  of  Bungo  sent  four  lords  in  embassy  to 
Europe,  who  visited  Lisbon,  Madrid,  Toledo, 
Florence,  Rome,  and  other  great  cities,  care- 
fully viewing  all  the  images  and  relics  preserv- 
ed in  the  chapels.  They  brought  over  from 
Philip  II.  rich  presents,  consisting  chiefly  of 
crosses  and  medals.  In  a  district  called  Cochi- 
nozu  the  Jesuits  appear  to  have  obtained  not 
only  the  full  establishment  of  their  own  religion, 
but  the  entire  prohibition  of  every  other.  The 
author  of  the  Oriente  Conquistado  relates  the  fol- 
lowing exploit  with  peculiar  triumph.  There  was 
a  rock  in  the  sea,  separated  from  the  continent  by 
a  narrow  channel,  containing  an  excavated  shrine, 
which  was  an  object  of  deep  veneration  and  fre- 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  37^ 

quent  pilgrimage  from  this  part  of  Japan.  Hither 
the  Bonzes,  in  their  distress,  had  conveyed  the 
most  sacred  of  their  images,  to  be  reserved  until 
happier  times.  The  Jesuits,  however,  determined 
to  storm  this  unhallowed  repository.  The  Bon- 
zes had  destroyed  the  bridge,  thrown  by  a  difficult 
operation  over  the  gulf,  which  alone  communi- 
cated with  it,  and  had  done  every  thing  possible 
to  render  the  approach  inaccessible.  A  large 
body  of  Japanese  Christians,  however,  armed  with 
proper  instruments,  repaired  the  bridge,  and  cut 
a  way  to  the  cavern,  whose  black  and  horrible 
aspect  resembled  the  mouth  of  hell.  They  en- 
tered fearless,  and  found^within  it  a  hundred  huge 
and  horrible  statues,  with  an  altar,  and  various 
other  superstitious  symbols.  The  Jesuits  instant- 
ly applied  hammers  to  the  marble,  and  fire  to  the 
altar,  and  in  a  few  hours,  instead  of  this  pompous 
display  of  idolatrous  worship,  there  remained  no- 
thing but  stones  and  ashes. 

Notwithstanding  these  prosperous  beginnings, 
the  zeal  of  the  grandees  who  had  embraced  the 
Catholic  faith  began  quickly  to  cool.  The  first 
point  of  discussion  arose  here,  as  elsewhere,  from 
the  conscientious  urgency  of  the  missionaries  for 
the  dismissal  of  the  vast  train  of  wives  which  each 
of  them  thought  fit  to  maintain.  They  were  very 
willing,  it  is  said,  to  believe  well,  provided  this 
particular  point  of  practice  were  not  dwelt  upon  j 


374"  JAPAN. 

they  wished  to  be  Christians  in  their  creed,  but 
heathens  in  their  life.  The  missionaries,  adher- 
ing to  this  point  with  their  usual  determination, 
were  reproached  with  refusing  baptism,  and  giv- 
ing up  many  valuable  souls  to  perdition  on  so 
slender  a  ground.  At  the  same  time,  furious  in- 
ternal  wars  began  to  rage  in  this  part  of  Japan, 
and  the  missionaries  found  themselves  in  danger 
of  being  crushed  between  the  contending  parties. 
At  length  a  military  chief  of  the  name  of  Comba- 
cundono  subdued  all  his  competitors,  and  became 
complete  master  of  the  empire.  The  Jesuits, 
therefore,  applied  themselves  to  obtain  his  favour 
and  protection,  and  for  some  time  they  supposed 
themselves  successful.  On  a  sudden,  however, 
without  any  cause  stated,  he  issued  an  order  that 
every  missionary  should  within  three  weeks  de- 
part from  the  empire.  The  Jesuits  having  hum- 
bly solicited  to  know  the  motive  of  such  unheard 
of  rigour,  a  rescript  was  delivered  to  them,  in 
which  it  was  stated,  "  that  they  terrified  the  people 
"  out  of  their  old  customs  and  modes  of  worship, 
"  and  introduced  the  service  of  the  devil  in  their 
**  stead  ;  that  moreover,  they  eat  horses  and  cows, 
*'  a  proceeding  altogether  contrary  to  reason,  those 
"  animals  being  exceedingly  useful  to  the  state.** 
The  missionaries  replied,  "  that  they  had  come 
"  from  a  distant  region  of  the  globe,  with  no  possi- 
*'  ble  motive  but  the  good  of  the  Japanese  j  that 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  375 

"  they  had  no  means,  even  if  they  had  the  inclina- 
"  tion,  to  do  any  thing  which  could  justly  give  um- 
"  brage  to  the  ruling  power."  The  eating  of  horse- 
flesh they  denied  in  toto,  and  even  that  of  cows, 
unless  in  a  very  limited  degree,  when  it  appeared 
at  the  tables  of  the  Portuguese  merchants.    They 
allege,  that  the  real  source  of  enmity  arose  from 
the  inclinations  of  the  Emperor  towards  the  fair 
sex,  the  most  beautiful  of  whom  his  agents  were 
diligently  instructed  to  collect  from  every  corner 
of  the  empire.    The  Bonzes,  who  scrupled  not  to 
act  as  assistants  in  this  capacity,  had  even  made 
overtures  to  some  Christian  ladies,  whose  indig- 
nant  rejection   was   supposed   to    have    greatly 
sharpened  his  displeasure.     He  refused,    there- 
fore, to  recal  his  order  ;  but  as  they  represented 
that  no  ship  would  sail  for  six  months,  he  con- 
sented that  they  should  be  collected  at  Firando, 
and   await   that   period.     A  consultation   being 
then  held,  it  was  determined  that  they  should 
remain  at  all  hazards,  but  as  quietly  as  possible. 
Accordingly,  at  the  end  of  the  period,  Comba- 
cundono  seems  to  have  forgot  the  affair ;  hearing 
no  more  of  them,  he  took  no  steps  to  enforce  his 
order,  and  they  continued  silently  spreading  their 
doctrine. 

Combacundono  was  at  this  time  deeply  im- 
mersed in  other  concerns.  Having  set  out  on 
an  expedition  against  China,  he  left  the  command 


376  JAPAN. 

of  the  army  at  home  to  his  nephew  Taycosama,  a 
popular  and  distinguished  officer.  During  his 
absence,  Taycosama  had  so  ingratiated  himself 
with  the  troops,  that  his  power  was  little  inferior 
to  that  of  the  sovereign.  Combacundono,  unable 
to  crush  this  unexpected  rival,  was  obhged  to 
conciliate  him  by  courtesy  and  negociation,  in  the 
course  of  which  he  invited  him  to  a  feast,  the 
splendour  of  which  dazzled  extremely  the  eyes  of 
the  Portuguese.  There  were  spread  13,000  tables, 
of  those  small  dimensions,  indeed,  which  are  used 
in  the  East,  one-half  for  the  male,  and  the  other 
for  the  female  guests.  Nothing,  however,  could 
equal  the  splendour  of  the  procession  made  by 
the  attendants  and  nobles  who  followed  Tayco- 
sama, and  by  his  hundred  and  fifty  wives,  each  of 
whom  had  borne  before  them  several  boxes  cover- 
ed with  silk  and  gold,  containing  the  dresses 
which  they  were  to  wear  at  the  festival.  Tayco- 
sama seems  to  have  accepted  this  invitation  only 
to  lull  the  suspicions  of  his  rival,  whom  he  soon 
after  waylaid  and  took.  He  then  threw  him  into 
prison,  and  at  last  allowed  him  only  that  sole  con- 
solation of  Japanese  pride,  the  liberty  of  dying  by 
his  own  hand.  This  savage  tyrant  soon  after 
caused  thirty-one  of  the  favourite  wives  of  the 
deceased,  with  their  children,  to  be  led  out  and 
publicly  executed.  This  deed  struck  the  people 
with  deep  horror  and  pity,  especially  as  many  of 


PORTUGUESE  MrSSIONARIES.  377 

them  were  the  daughters  of  persons  of  distinc- 
tion ;  and  in  execrating  the  cruelty  of  the  present 
monarch,  they  almost  forgot  that  of  his  prede- 
cessor. 

Taycosama,  on  being  applied  to,  refused  to  re- 
voke the  order  of  his  predecessor  against  the 
missionaries,  but  he  did  not  take  any  active  steps 
to  enforce  it ;  and  they  found,  that  by  keeping 
very  quiet,  they  could  still  maintain  their  place. 
Ill  fortune,  however,  decreed,  that  at  this  mo- 
ment a  detachment  of  Barefoot  friars  arrived  from 
the  Philippines.  These  new  recruits,  besides 
being  quite  ignorant  of  Japan,  by  no  means  pos- 
sessed the  prudence  and  address  of  the  Jesuits. 
The  latter  strongly  represented  to  them,  that  the 
only  tenure  on  which  they  could  remain,  or  have 
any  success  in  Japan,  was  by  avoiding  every 
public  exhibition  of  themselves  and  the  cere- 
monies of  their  religion.  The  lofty  mind  of  the 
Barefoots,  however,  held  in  utter  disdain  any 
such  compromise.  They  immediately  began  pub- 
licly preaching,  and  celebrating  the  Catholic  rites, 
without  any  regard  to  the  remonstrances  made 
by  the  governor.  At  this  very  crisis  occur- 
red another  most  unfortunate  incident.  A  Por- 
tuguese vessel  having  been  taken  near  Orudo, 
was  found  to  contain  a  quantity  of  arms.  This 
induced,  on  the  governor's  part,  a  very  strict 
examination,  from  which  the  captain  extricated 


378  JAPAN. 

himself  pretty  tolerably.  The  Japanese  officer 
being  thus  impelled  by  curiosity  to  make  inquiries 
respecting  Portugal,  the  captain  began  a  boast- 
ful account  of  its  dominion,  and  the  vast  extent  of 
its  recent  conquests.  This  drew  out  an  inquiry, 
by  what  means  so  many  and  so  distant  regions 
had  been  subjected  to  its  sway  ?  The  captain 
was  so  ill  advised  as  to  answer,  that  it  was  by 
sending  missionaries,  who  converted  a  large  pro- 
portion of  the  people,  after  which  an  armed  force 
was  landed,  and  being  joined  by  these  converts, 
soon  made  themselves  masters  of  the  country. 
This  notice  appeared  to  the  governor  so  serious, 
that  he  lost  not  a  moment  in  transmitting  a  full 
report  of  it  to  Taycosama.  The  rage  of  that 
chief  then  knew  no  bounds.  He  began  with 
ordering  every  missionary  to  be  instantly  sent  out 
of  the  country  :  then  recollecting  how  vain  every 
order  to  that  effect  had  hitherto  proved,  he  de- 
clared, that  since  he  could  not  make  them  depart 
this  kingdom,  he  would  at  least  make  them  de- 
part this  life,  and  directed  that  the  whole  should 
be  instantly  put  to  death.  Gradually  cooling, 
however,  he  listened  to  intercessions  in  their 
favour,  and  ordered  only  that  six  Barefoot  friars, 
three  Jesuits,  and  a  few  Japanese,  should  be  cru- 
cified, and  that  twenty-four  should  have  one  ear 
cut  off.  All  their  seminaries  and  establishments 
were  at  the  same  time  broken  up  5  yet  they  still 


PORTUGUESE  MISSIONARIES.  379 

individually  lurked  ;  and  the  death  of  Tayco- 
sama,  which  soon  after  took  place,  enabled  them 
again  to  lift  up  their  heads.  New  persecutions, 
however,  soon  arose ;  and  during  a  space  of  forty 
years,  Japan  furnished  continual  additions  to  the 
list  of  Catholic  martyrs.  Nieremberg  has  given 
a  description  of  the  tortures  which  they  were 
made  to  endure.  The  first  was  that  of  the  jar, 
which  consisted  in  immersing  the  head  up  to  the 
nose  in  a  vessel  of  water,  while  the  feet  were  kept 
suspended  in  the  air.  Another  was  the  stair,  the 
sufierer  being  then  bound  to  a  stair,  with  his  head 
on  the  lowest  step,  while  a  species  of  funnel 
threw  continually  vast  quantities  of  water  into  his 
mouth,  at  the  same  time,  a  board  pressing  on  the 
stomach,  caused  its  continual  ejection.  The  left 
arm  alone  remained  at  liberty,  to  make  the  sig- 
nal of  recantation.  The  last  torture  was  that  of 
the  ca've,  in  which  half  the  body,  with  the  head 
lowest,  was  buried  under  ground,  the  feet  being 
raised  in  the  air  j  an  arm,  however,  being  still  left 
in  a  condition  to  make  the  required  movement. 
By  this  continued  system  of  torture  and  death, 
continued  for  about  forty  years,  (1590  to  1630), 
the  Portuguese,  and  the  religion  which  they 
taught,  were  completely  rooted  out  of  Japan. 
Even  now,  in  all  the  seaports,  it  is  annually  re- 
nounced with  the  most  frightful  ceremonies,  and 
by  trampling  under  foot  all  the  Catholic  images. 


380  JAPAN. 

Notwithstanding  the  awful  denunciation  now 
fuhninated  against  the  Portuguese,  that  nation, 
in  l64<0,  sent  an  embassy,  composed  of  seventy- 
four  individuals,  to  solicit  a  renewed  commercial 
intercourse.     This  body,  on  their  arrival,  were 
immediately  seized  and  thrown  into  prison,  till 
the  Emperor's  pleasure  should  be  known.     The 
courier  sent  to  court  returned  with  a  fatal  man- 
date ;  in  pursuance  of  which,  all  the  ambassadors, 
with  the  exception  of  thirteen,  were  immediately 
put  to  death.     The  magistrates  then  sent  for  the 
survivors,  and  having  asked  them  if  they  would 
faithfully  report  at  Macao  what  they  should  see 
and  hear,  proceeded  thus  :  *'  You  are  then  to  in- 
'  form  your  fellow-citizens,  that  henceforth  the 
'  citizens  of  Japan  will  not  receive  either  money, 
'  merchandise,   or  presents  from  them  :  you  see 
'  we  have  burnt  the  very  clothes  of  those  who 
'  were  executed.     Let  your  people  use  any  of 
'  ours  that  fall  into  their  hands  in  the  same  man- 

*  ner ;  we  consent  to  it ;   and  desire  you  will 

*  think  of  us  no  more  than  if  there  were  not  such 

*  a  nation  as  the  Japanese  in  the  world."  They 
were  then  shewn  the  heads  of  the  ambassadors 
and  the  others,  fixed  on  poles,  and  a  large  chest 
containing  their  bodies,  on  which  was  a  long  in- 
scription, ending  with  these  words  :  "  All  this  is 
"  set  forth,  as  a  memorial  of  what  is  past,  and  as 
^*  an  advertisement  for  the  time  to  come.    Hcnce^ 


THE  DUTCH.  381 

"  forward,  so  long  as  the  sun  shall  shine  upon  the 
"  earth,  let  not  any  Christian  be  so  hardy  as  to 
"  set  his  foot  in  Japan.  And  be  it  known  to  all 
"  the  world,  that  if  King  Philip  in  person,  or  the 
"  great  Xaca,  (one  of  the  first  deities  of  Japan), 
**  shall  presume  to  break  this  ordinance,  he  shall 
"  pay  for  it  with  his  head.'* 

The  Dutch  succeeded  the  Portuguese  in  the 
trade  of  Japan  ;  and  being  by  no  means  so  intent 
upon  the  maintenance  of  their  own  dignity  when 
profit  was  at  stake,  they  have  ever  since,  alone  of 
all  the  European  nations,  maintained  some  small 
portion  of  this  commerce.  In  I6OO  they  formed 
a  settlement  at  Firando,  but  were  afterwards  re- 
moved to  Nangasaki,  and  their  privileges  reduc- 
ed always  within  narrower  and  narrower  limits. 
Every  year  their  annual  fleet  was  accompanied  by 
an  embassy  to  the  imperial  court  with  presents 
and  homage.  The  narratives  published  by  indi- 
viduals who  accompanied  these,  have  been  our 
only  source  of  information  respecting  the  interior 
of  Japan.  The  first  account  is  that  published  by 
Montanus  respecting  the  mission  of  Frisius  and 
Bronkhorst  in  1649  ;  but  this  narrative  is  a  mere 
shapeless  compilation  from  the  writings  of  the 
missionaries,  illustrated  by  plates  which  are  en- 
tirely the  manufacture  of  Amsterdam.  This  de- 
ficiency is  well  compensated  by  the  intelligent 


382  JAPAN, 

narrative  of  the  learned  Kaempfer,  who  about  the 
end  of  the  seventeenth  century  twice  accompa- 
nied the  embassy  to  Jeddo.     At  Nangasaki  they 
were  obHged  to  submit  to  various  humihations, 
Iiaving  their  arms  taken  from  them,  their  persons 
searched,  and  seals  placed  upon  all  their  effects. 
On  the  road,  however,  they  were  treated  with  the 
same  respect  as  is  paid  to  the  princes  and  great 
lords,  the  people  falling  on  their  knees  as  they 
passed,  and  the  peasantry  often  going  aside  and 
laying   themselves   flat   on   their    faces.       Each 
Prince,  as  they  entered  his  territory,  sent  compli- 
ments to  them,  with  four  servants  in  black  silk 
gowns  to  attend  them  in  their  passage  through  it. 
They  offered  also  vv^hatever  horses  the  embassy 
might  want,  and  supplied  pleasure  barges  to  con- 
vey them  across  the  arms  of  the  sea.     In  short, 
he  says,  all  Japan  may  be  considered  as  a  school 
of  civility  and  politeness.     The  gratification  de- 
rived from  these  honours  was  much  abated  by  the 
rigorous  state  of  restraint  in  which  they  were  held. 
They  were  never  allowed  to  alight  from  their 
chairs  unless  on  the  most  urgent  necessity  j  and 
on  arriving  at  the  inn,  were  immediately  convey- 
ed to  their  apartment,  where  they  remained  as  in 
a  dungeon,  every  window  or  chink  which  opened 
a  view  into  the  country  being  carefully  stopped 
up.    The  attendants  insisted  on  not  leaving  them 
even  while  they  obeyed  the  humblest  calls  of  na- 

28 


KAEMPFER.  383 

ture.  Their  tedium,  however,  was  enlivened  by 
the  view  of  the  vast  crowds  travelling  on  the 
roads.  The  principal  highway  resembled  in  this 
respect  the  streets  of  the  most  populous  city  in 
Europe.  This  was  produced  at  once  by  the  nu- 
merous population  of  the  country,  and  by  their 
great  propensity  to  travel,  either  for  attending  the 
court,  for  trade  and  business,  or  for  their  nume- 
rous pilgrimages.  The  mission  now  visited  Jeddo, 
the  capital,  a  vast  city,  and  built  with  greater  re- 
gularity than  is  usual  in  Europe.  For  this,  too 
ample  opportunities  were  afforded  by  the  frequent 
fires,  which  were  continually  laying  whole  streets, 
and  even  quarters,  in  ashes.  The  houses  were 
indeed  mere  masses  of  combustible  matter,  the 
walls  being  built  of  wood,  the  interior  mats  and 
paper.  There  were  many  splendid  palaces,  which 
covered  a  vast  extent  of  ground,  and  were  sur- 
rounded by  large  court-yards,  but  had  nothing 
imposing  in  their  aspect,  as,  like  other  houses  in 
this  country,  they  had  only  one  floor.  The  pa- 
lace formed  a  species  of  fortified  city  in  the  heart 
of  the  general  one,  surrounded  with  a  wall  of  free- 
stone, and  having  the  ornament  of  a  lofty  tower 
many  stories  high.  The  ambassadors  were  intro- 
duced into  the  audience  hall,  called  the  hall  of  a 
hundred  mats.  Kaempfer  assures  us,  that  the 
elevated  throne,  the  steps  leading  to  it,  and  the 
ranges  of  lofty  columns,  pompously  described  and 


384  JAPAN. 

delineated  by  Montanus,  exist  only  in  that  writer's 
own  imagination.  The  real  ornaments  are  mere- 
ly the  beautiful  white  mats,  with  gold  fringes, 
that  are  spread  on  the  floor ;  the  rich  gilding  j 
and  the  cedar,  camphire,  and  other  valuable 
woods,  curiously  carved,  and  often  japanned,  of 
which  the  walls  are  formed.  The  Emperor  being 
seated  in  the  interior,  three  nobles  came  and  led 
in  the  resident,  creeping  on  his  hands  and  feet 
till  he  came  within  the  proper  distance.  They 
then  cried  aloud,  Hollanda  Captain  I  on  which 
he  immediately  struck  his  forehead  against  the 
ground,  and  immediately  "  crawled  backwards 
"  like  a  crab,"  without  speaking  or  hearing  a 
word.  This  "  mean  and  short  thing"  was  all 
their  return  for  a  journey  of  upwards  of  three 
hundred  miles,  and  20,000  dollars  expended  in 
travelling  and  presents.  They  were  afterwards 
paraded  in  another  large  hall,  for  the  purpose  of 
being  viewed  by  the  Empress  and  other  ladies  of 
the  court,  who  were  seated  behind  lattices  ;  for 
whose  further  entertainment  they  received  di- 
rections to  dance,  which,  though  an  exercise  not 
very  congenial  to  their  habits,  they  performed  to 
the  best  of  their  ability.  Such  being  their  only 
amusements  at  court,  they  felt  no  regret  on  being 
permitted  to  take  their  departure  again  for  Nan- 
gasaki. 


KAEMPFER.  385 

Kaempfer  has  given  a  full  view  of  that  extra- 
ordinary division  of  power  which  has  been  es- 
tablished between  the  Dairi  and  the  Cubo,  the 
ecclesiastical  and  military  sovereigns  of  Japan, 
The  Dairi  appears  to  have  been  originally  the 
sole  ruler ;  but,  supplanted  by  the  ample  means 
of  influence  which  the  military  power  carries 
along  with  it,  he  now  resides  in  empty  pomp  at 
Meaco.  That  city  is  still  a  capital  scarcely  se- 
cond to  Jeddo.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  most  exten- 
sive commerce :  the  finest  silk  stuffs,  with  gold 
and  silver  flowers,  the  richest  varnishes,  the  best 
painted  papers,  the  most  skilful  works  in  gold, 
silver,  and  copper,  are  there  carried  on.  The 
Dairi,  by  his  numerous  attendants,  is  treated  as 
scarcely  less  than  a  god.  He  never  sets  his  foot  to 
the  ground ;  even  his  hair  and  nails  have  a  sa- 
cred character ;  and  every  utensil  and  dress  which 
he  has  made  use  of  is  immediately  destroyed,  lest 
it  should  be  profaned  by  application  to  any  vul- 
gar purpose.  He  enjoys  only  the  revenues  of 
the  city  of  Meaco  and  a  stipend  from  the  Cubo, 
which  is  small  and  irregularly  paid  ;  but  the  zeal 
and  pride  of  his  followers,  who  look  upon  them- 
selves as  superior  beings  to  the  rest  of  their  coun- 
trymen, enables  a  court  to  be  maintained  in  a 
style  of  indigent  splendour.  Meaco  is  the  centre 
of  all  the  literature  and  science  of  Japan :  that 
of  geometry  has  made  here  the  greatest  progress. 

VOL.  III.  B  b 


386  JAPAN. 

Although  the  Cubo  be  the  sole  civil  and  mili- 
tary ruler,  and  exercises  a  power  completely  ab- 
solute, each  of  the  provinces  is  swayed  by  a  here- 
ditary governor,  supreme  as  to  the  internal  con- 
cerns of  his  own  district.  The  strictest  precau- 
tions are  employed  to  prevent  their  chiefs  from 
becoming  independent.  They  are  all  obliged  to 
reside  for  half  a  year  at  the  court,  and  to  leave 
hostages  in  their  absence.  Although  there  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  be  any  republican  constitution, 
yet  the  inhabitants  of  the  cities,  divided  into  wards, 
exercise  among  themselves  a  certain  police  jurisdic- 
tion. Punishment  is  administered  with  intense  and 
awful  severity,  and  in  that  undistinguishing  manner 
which  seeks  the  security  of  the  government  with- 
out any  regard  to  the  merit  or  demerit  of  the  ob- 
ject. The  parent  is  punished  for  the  crime  of 
the  child,  and  the  child  for  that  of  the  parent ; 
and  the  inhabitants  of  a  street  or  district  are 
made  responsible  for  the  conduct  of  every  person 
within  its  limits.  The  people,  on  the  contrary, 
place  their  pride  in  shewing  daring  hardihood 
and  perfect  coolness  in  the  midst  of  torments. 
The  grandees,  when  condemned  to  death,  claim 
only  the  privilege  of  being  allowed  to  terminate 
their  own  life. 

An  interesting  view  of  the  interior  of  Japan 
was  communicated  by  Thunberg,  who  sailed  in 


THUNBERO.  387 

1775  from  Batavia  with  the  annual  Dutch  com- 
mercial fleet.  The  voyage,  he  observes,  is  ex- 
tremely dangerous,  and  the  Dutch  give  up  as  lost 
one  ship  out  of  five  that  sails  thither.  On  the 
13th  August  they  came  in  view  of  the  high  moun- 
tains of  Niphon,  and  in  the  afternoon  found  them- 
selves in  the  entrance  of  Nangasaki  harbour. 
Fires  were  already  lighted  on  the  tops  of  all  the 
surrounding  hills  to  give  notice  of  their  approach. 
In  sailing  up  the  harbour  a  delightful  view  open- 
ed of  the  surrounding  hills  and  mountains,  culti- 
vated to  the  very  summit.  On  arriving  in  the 
harbour,  the  first  operation  was  to  collect  all  the 
Prayer-books  and  Bibles,  to  be  delivered  to  the 
Japanese,  and  kept  till  their  departure ;  a  precau- 
tion insisted  upon,  lest  any  attempt  should  be 
made  to  introduce  Christianity.  A  muster-roll 
of  the  crew  was  then  drawn  out,  for  the  purpose  of 
being  delivered  to  the  Japanese,  who  called  it 
every  morning  and  evening.  Then  the  captain 
clothed  himself  in  a  stufled  silk  coat,  of  such 
huge  dimensions  as  to  be  capable  of  containing 
three  persons  of  his  own  size ;  which  was  with 
the  view  of  inserting,  whenever  he  went  on  shore, 
a  small  stock  of  contraband  articles.  A  boat  was 
quickly  seen  approaching,  containing  the  officers 
and  searchers,  who  were  received  with  every  pos- 
sible respect,  seated  on  a  bedstead  prepared  for 
the  purpose,  and  liberally  supplied  with  tobacco 


388  JAPAN. 

and  brandy.  The  first  thing  they  did  was  to 
produce  an  order  just  arrived  from  court,  decree- 
ing that  the  captain  should  denude  himself  of  his 
present  capacious  vestments,  and  put  on  others 
fitted  to  his  actual  dimension.  This  order  was 
reluctantly  obeyed,  to  the  great  astonishment 
of  some  ignorant  Japanese,  who  had  imagined, 
that  the  former  swollen  state  was  the  natural  and 
stationary  size  of  a  Dutch  captain.  The  officers 
then  began  to  institute  a  search  still  more  rigo- 
rous than  usual.  They  turned  the  pockets  of  all 
the  officers  and  crew  inside  out,  and  passed  their 
hands  over  their  clothes,  and  through  their  hair. 
All  the  trunks  and  chests  were  emptied,  and  even 
the  boards  sounded  lest  they  should  be  hollow. 
Iron  pikes  were  run  into  the  butter  tubs  and  jars 
of  sweetmeats,  and  a  thick  pointed  wire  through 
the  cheeses.  They  broke  even  several  of  the 
eggs.  At  length  the  Dutch  were  allowed  to  be- 
gin landing  their  cargo  on  the  island  of  Dezima, 
a  small  appendage  to  Nangasaki,  forming  an  island 
at  high  water,  but  at  low  water  a  mere  street  of 
the  town.  They  were  kept  there  as  in  a  prison, 
the  gate  being  constantly  guarded,  and  locked 
every  night.  Our  author  was  struck  with  the 
gloomy  situation  of  those  who  had  their  perma- 
nent abode  in  this  place.  They  became  as  it 
were  dead  ;  they  never  heard  a  word  of  news  re- 
fspecting  any  other  quarter  of  the  world,  and  in 


THUNBERG.  389 

time  lost  all  curiosity  concerning  them.  Even 
the  faculty  of  the  will  became  extinct  from  want 
of  exercise,  there  being  no  other  for  them  but 
that  of  the  Japanese,  according  to  which  they 
must  entirely  square  their  conduct. 

Botany  was  the  favourite  pursuit  of  Dr  Thun- 
berg  J  and  he  with  great  difficulty  obtained  per- 
mission to  make  a  few  excursions,  but  always  at-, 
tended  with  a  numerous  train,  who  at  once  en,.^ 
cumbered  his  motions,  and  caused  a  heavy  ex- 
pense, as  it  was  necessary  to  treat  them  all.  After 
a  stay  of  about  six  months  at  Nangasaki,  the  em- 
bassy set  out  for  Jeddo,  the  capital  Their  road 
lay  chiefly  along  the  coast,  partly  by  land,  and 
partly  by  water.  Their  land  conveyance  was  in 
norimonSi  a  species  of  sedan  chairs  made  of  bam- 
boo. There  is  neither  post-chaise  nor  wheel-car- 
riage of  any  kind  in  the  empire.  The  poor  tra- 
vel on  foot ;  those  in  better  circumstances  have 
a  horse,  on  which,  by  the  aid  of  baskets,  a  whole 
family  is  sometimes  conveyed  ;  but  the  norimofi 
is  the  exclusive  conveyance  of  the  great.  Our 
author  discommends  much  the  great  diligence 
shewn  to  supply  even  the  smallest  sea-ports  with 
ladies  who  have  renounced  the  first  virtue  of  their 
sex.  The  houses  destined  for  them  were  usually 
the  handsomest  in  the  town,  and  placed  close  to 
the  temples.  Persons  under  the  sanction  of  go- 
vernment purchase  girls  to  be  trained  for  this  crir 


390  JAPAN. 

minal  trade,  which  is  not  considered  here  in  the 
same  disgraceful  h'ght  as  elsewhere,  and  forms 
even  no  obstacle  to  a  good  marriage.  The  Dutch 
were  not  allowed  to  enter  these  haunts  ;  but  upon 
earnest  application  were  accommodated  during 
their  stay  with  a  temporary  wife.  The  ornaments 
employed  by  these  and  other  Japanese  ladies  con- 
sisted chiefly  in  painting  their  lips  blue,  and  their 
teeth  black,  so  that  they  appeared  to  Thunberg 
sufficient  to  make  even  a  fond  lover  take  French 
leave  of  his  mistress. 

Thunberg,  in  travelling  through  this  new  coun- 
try, had  cherished  sanguine  expectations  of  form- 
ing a  rich  collection  of  plants  unknown  in  Europe. 
He  was  completely  baffled,  however,  by  the  laud- 
able industry  of  the  Japanese  farmers.  All  those 
plants  of  which  he  was  in  search  were  classed  in 
their  vocabulary  as  weeds,  the  extirpation  of 
which  was  the  object  of  their  most  strenuous 
efforts  ;  which  had  been  so  successful,  that  he  pro- 
ceeded through  the  whole  provinces  without  see- 
ing one.  The  principal  towns  through  which  he 
passed  were  Osaka,  the  seat  of  commerce  and 
pleasure.  It  is  called  the  Paris  of  Japan,  abound- 
ing with  every  luxury  which  the  empire  affords, 
and  resorted  to  by  many  of  the  great,  as  the  most 
agreeable  place  for  spending  their  fortunes ;  while 
its  commerce  is  so  great,  that  the  ground  floor  of 
almost  every  house  is  a  work-shop.     The  next 


THUNBERC.  391 

was  Meaco,  the  ecclesiastical  capital,  which, 
though  now  supplanted  in  political  importance 
by  Jeddo,  continues  still  the  principal  seat  of 
literature,  manufactures,  and  trade.  Though 
Thunberg  was  here  four  days,  he  never  obtained 
more  than  a  distant  view  of  the  palace  of  the 
Dairi.  At  length  they  arrived  at  Jeddo,  the  ca- 
pital and  residence  of  the  Cubo,  or  temporal 
monarch.  They  were  immediately  waited  upon 
by  five  physicians  and  two  astronomers,  who  hav- 
ing heard  that  the  Dutch  were  bringing  with  them 
a  doctor  much  more  learned  than  any  who  usually 
attended  their  embassy,  came  in  hopes  of  adding 
somewhat  to  their  stores  of  information.  The 
chief  object  of  the  celestial  observers  was  to  be 
enabled  to  calculate  eclipses  with  greater  preci- 
sion ;  but  Thunberg  regrets  that  he  was  not  able 
to  give  them  very  much  information  upon  this 
point.  He  could  better  satisfy  the  physicians, 
who  had  many  inquiries  to  make,  not  only  re- 
specting the  European  mode  of  curing  diseases, 
but  concerning  the  kindred  sciences  of  natural 
philosophy,  botany,  and  surgery.  Their  visits 
became  very  frequent ;  and  our  traveller,  though 
almost  wearied  out  by  their  endless  succession  of 
questions,  spent  many  an  agreeable  hour  in  their 
company. 

The  ceremonies  of  audience  passed  in  rather  a 
less  mortifying  manner  than  during  the  time  of 


392  JAPAN. 

Kaempfer.  They  were  ushered  into  an  ante- 
chamber, where  they  were  seated  on  the  floor  in 
the  Japanese  attitude,  which  would  have  been 
very  painful  had  not  their  large  silk  gowns  ena- 
bled them  in  some  degree  to  extricate  their  legs 
from  so  incommodious  a  posture.  In  this  posi- 
tion they  were  addressed  and  questioned  by  a 
number  of  grandees,  who  came  up  to  them  incog.  ; 
but  their  rank  was  betrayed  by  the  reverence  of 
the  bystanders.  They  put  many  questions,  par- 
ticularly about  the  European  mode  of  writing,  of 
which  it  was  necessary  to  afford  them  specimens 
either  on  paper  or  on  their  fans.  They  had  even 
reason  to  suspect  that  the  Emperor  himself  was 
among  this  number.  At  the  end  of  the  period 
the  ambassador  was  led  in,  bowed  his  head  to  the 
ground,  and  immediately  departed  ;  however  he 
walked  both  in  and  out,  instead  of  creeping,  as 
formerly. 

Thunberg  has  analyzed  with  considerable  care 
the  character  of  this  extraordinary  nation.  He 
considers  sense  as  a  very  prominent  feature. 
They  despise  those  glittering  ornaments  which 
are  so  studiously  worn  throughout  all  Asia,  and 
to  a  great  extent  in  Europe,  and  seek  only  to  be 
decently  and  substantially  clothed.  He  adds, 
that  liberty  is  the  soul  of  the  Japanese ;  a  praise 
which  we  do  not  fully  understand,  as  he  imme- 
diately after  ranks  submission  to  their  superiors 


THUNBERG.  393 

as  a  feature  equally  prominent.  The  laws,  how- 
ever, are  said  to  be  administered  with  very  rigid 
justice,  and  the  whole  nation  to  be  distinguished 
for  the  observance  of  the  strictest  honesty.  They 
have  seldom  or  never  attempted  to  conquer  other 
nations,  but  defend  their  own  with  unconquerable 
valour.  Their  most  unamiable  quaHty  is  pride, 
which  is  said  to  rise  to  the  highest  pitch,  both  in 
the  nation  and  in  individuals.  Connected  with 
this  is  resentment,  in  which  they  are  said  to  be 
quite  implacable.  They  remain  always  cool,  how- 
ever, and  conceal  their  enmity,  without  ever  for- 
getting it,  till  the  moment  arrives  when  they  can 
strike  the  blow.  They  are  said  to  be  generally  of 
very  courteous  manners,  and  even  of  a  good- 
natured  and  friendly  disposition,  when  they  are 
treated  in  a  corresponding  manner,  and  nothing 
is  done  by  which  their  resentment  can  be  roused. 
In  superstitious  habits,  and  in  the  extent  of  their 
pilgrimages,  they  appear  almost  to  rival  the  Hin- 
doos. The  original  national  faith  is  that  of  the 
Sinto,  who  seem  to  possess  lofty  ideas  of  a  Su- 
preme Being,  but  mingled  with  various  degrading 
superstitions.  Here,  however,  as  in  all  the  east 
of  Asia,  the  religion  of  Boodh  or  Fo  is  the  most 
popular,  and  it  is  professed  by  the  Cubo.  In  in- 
dustry the  Japanese  are  pre-eminent,  particularly 
in  agriculture,  so  that  though  a  great  part  of 
their  country  consists  of  rugged  mountains,  they 


394*  JAPAN. 

have  contrived  to  cover  almost  every  corner  of  it 
with  good  crops.  They  have  tea  Hke  China,  but 
of  a  coarser  quahty.  Their  manufactures  of  silk 
and  cotton  are  extensive  ;  but  in  the  former  they 
are  excelled  by  the  Chinese,  and  in  the  latter  by 
the  Hindoos.  They  excel  both,  however,  in 
working  metals,  particularly  copper  and  steel ; 
and  in  lacquering  and  varnishing  wood,  called  by 
us  japanned  work,  they  are  not  equalled  by  any 
nation  in  the  world. 

After  Russia,  by  the  extension  of  her  vast 
Asiatic  dominion  to  Kamtchatka  and  the  Kuriles, 
became  the  neighbour  of  Japan,  she  naturally 
conceived  the  desire  of  opening  some  intercourse 
with  so  great  and  opulent  a  state.  No  disposi- 
tion, however,  appeared  to  relax  in  those  rigorous 
restrictions,  which  admitted  of  no  exception  ex- 
cept the  single  and  narrow  one  granted  to  the 
Dutch.  In  hopes  of  obtaining  some  relaxation  of 
this  rigid  system.  Captain  Krusenstern,  in  1804, 
set  sail  from  Kamtchatka  on  an  official  mission. 
He  was  received  with  courtesy ;  but  the  treaty 
for  his  landing  was  protracted  to  a  great  length 
by  the  vexatious,  and,  as  he  conceived,  insulting 
precautions  which  were  insisted  upon.  Although 
a  Dutch  vessel  was  setting  sail  for  Batavia,  they 
were  not  allowed  to  send  any  letters,  except  one 
to  the  Emperor,  and  this  they  were  required  not 


KRUSENSTERN.  395 

only  to  shew,  but  to  furnish  a  copy  so  exact,  that 
every  line  should  end  with  the  same  word.  As 
the  Dutch  captains  passed  by,  Krusenstern  salut- 
ed them,  and  was  much  surprised  to  see  them  go 
on  without  looking  or  speaking ;  but  he  after- 
wards learned,  that  it  would  have  been  at  their 
peril  if  they  had  done  otherwise.  The  Russians, 
after  a  month's  negociation,  were  allowed  to  con- 
tinue to  wear  their  swords ;  but  this  "  small 
**  triumph,"  as  they  call  it,  was  alloyed  by  the 
necessity  of  delivering  up  all  their  fire-arms.  By 
a  pretence  of  sickness.  Captain  Krusenstern  ob- 
tained a  spot  to  walk  upon  ;  but  it  was  only  a 
hundred  paces  long,  enclosed  with  a  high  bamboo 
wall,  and  guarded  by  two  watch-houses.  At 
length  they  were  landed,  and  accommodated  on 
a  neck  of  land,  almost  surrounded  by  the  sea,  and 
watched  as  close  as  the  seven  towers  at  Constan- 
tinople. Every  thing,  however,  which  was  want- 
ed for  provisions  and  repairs  to  the  vessel,  was 
liberally  supplied.  The  negociations  for  permis- 
sion to  proceed  to  court  were  delayed  for  many 
months,  the  Japanese  exaggerating  the  distance 
and  the  time  necessary  to  receive  an  answer.  At 
length  it  was  announced,  that  two  plenipoten- 
tiaries, with  eight  great  lords,  might  be  very 
shortly  expected  ;  and  it  was  understood,  though 
not  fully  expressed,  that  this  was  to  supersede 
their  proceeding  into  the  interior.     The  plenipo- 


396  JAPAN. 

tentiaries,  on  their  arrival,  announced,  as  an  irre- 
vocable decision,  that  no  Russian  ship  could  be 
allowed  to  enter  Japan.  They  refused  the  pre- 
sents, on  the  ground  that  their  acceptance  would 
require  a  return,  and  that  a  Japanese  ambassador 
must  then  proceed  to  Russia,  which  was  contrary 
to  their  law. 

Some  years  after,  a  favourable  opportunity  ap- 
peared to  open,  when  the  Russians  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  Asia  saved  a  Japanese  vessel  from  ship- 
wreck, and  enabled  it  to  return  to  Japan.  In 
hopes  of  taking  advantage  of  the  favourable  dis- 
positions which  this  tended  to  produce.  Captain 
GoLowNiN  sailed  to  Matsmai,  the  principal  town 
of  Jesso,  which  is  now  almost  entirely  a  Japanese 
island.  There  they  were  first  allured  on  shore, 
then  thrown  into  a  miserable  dungeon,  and, 
though  with  some  improvement  of  their  quarters, 
detained  in  prison  for  many  months.  Golownin 
once  effected  his  escape,  but,  after  wandering 
through  the  island  for  a  number  of  days,  was 
taken  and  conveyed  back  to  Matsmai.  He  found 
the  coast  cultivated  and  populous,  but  the  inte- 
rior consisting  of  wild,  and  almost  inaccessible 
mountains.  Matsmai,  the  capital,  is  a  large  town, 
containing  about  50,000  inhabitants.  At  length 
orders  arrived  from  the  Emperor  to  send  him 
back  to  Russia  j  but  all  extension  of  commercial 


GOLOWNIN,  397 

privileges  was  of  course  out  of  the  question.  He 
found  the  Japanese  nation  imbued  with  the  deep- 
est jealousy  of  the  Russians,  and  viewing  with 
alarm  the  vast  extension  of  their  empire.  Na- 
tional pride  made  them  believe  that  the  advances 
of  the  English  by  sea,  and  of  the  Russians  by 
land,  were  made  in  concert,  and  had  for  their 
sole  object  finally  to  obtain  possession  of  Japan. 
Every  thing,  therefore,  which  could  tend  to  un- 
veil the  secrets  of  the  country  to  either  of  these 
potentates,  was  guarded  against  with  the  most 
anxious  precaution. 


BOOK  VI. 

NORTHERN  ASIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  TERRITORY  OF  CAUCASUS. 

General  Remarhs. — Engelmann. — Pallas,  Klaproth, 
Guldenstedt,  Sfc. — The  Circassians. 

We  come  now  to  treat  of  the  north  of  Asia,  or 
Asiatic  Russia  ;  a  region  of  vast  extent,  compris- 
ing a  full  third  of  the  continent,  but  thinly  peo- 
pled, and  containing  comparatively  few  objects  to 
excite  curiosity  and  admiration.  The  reason  has 
been  explained  in  the  preface,  why  the  voyages 
along  the  Northern  Ocean,  and  even  the  journies 
along  its  shores,  are  not  made  to  enter  into  the 
plan  of  the  present  work.  Our  attention  is  thus 
confined  to  the  inland  divisions  of  this  vast  terri- 
tory. These  may  be  divided  into  two  parts ; — 
the  Caucasian  provinces,  or  the  regions  situated 
between  the  Black  Sea  and  the  Caspian  j  and 


THE  CAUCASUS.  399 

that  vast  tract,  extending  across  the  whole  breadth 
of  Asia,  which  is  known  by  the  name  of  Siberia. 

The  territories  interposed  between  the  Black 
Sea  and  the  Caspian,  consist  of  vast  ranges  of 
mountains  towering  over  each  other,  interspers- 
ed with  narrow  but  fertile  valleys,  but  nowhere 
opening  into  any  extensive  plain.  Its  loftiest 
ridge,  called  Elbrus,  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
stretches  from  sea  to  sea,  terminating  at  Der- 
bend,  whose  iron  gate  opens  only  a  narrow  pas- 
sage to  the  invader  or  traveller.  Both  to  the 
north  and  south  of  this  limit,  the  mountains  slope 
gradually  downward,  till  it  sinks  on  one  side  into 
the  vast  steppe  or  flat  plain  of  the  Kuban,  whence 
the  mighty  ranges  of  Caucasus  rise  like  a  wall, 
and  on  the  other  decline  into  the  comparatively 
level  territories  of  Georgia,  Aderbijan,  and  Shir- 
van,  connecting  itself,  however,  with  the  lofty 
chains  of  Armenia.  The  recesses  of  this  moun- 
tain world  have  always  been  occupied  by  a  race 
of  proud  and  warlike  chiefs,  who  have  imbibed 
the  full  spirit  of  the  feudal  ages,  and  have  yielded 
only  a  slight  and  precarious  submission  to  the 
successive  empires  that  have  held  the  sceptre  of 
Asia.  Russia  is  the  one  which  has  gone  farthest 
towards  establishing  her  sway ;  yet,  though  her 
supremacy  is  owned,  she  is  scarcely  able  to  ex- 
tract even  tribute  ;  and  a  chain  of  military  posts 
upon  the  Terek  and  the  Kuban,  are  necessary  to 

as 


400  thb;  CAUCASUS, 

protect  her  provinces  from  predatory  inroads. 
This  power,  according  to  her  laudable  practice, 
has  been  at  very  considerable  pains  to  know 
these  appendages  to  her  extended  empire.  The 
result  of  various  official  surveys  have  appeared  in 
the  elaborate  works  of  Pallas,  and  other  learned 
travellers.  These  consist  chiefly  of  topographi- 
cal and  descriptive  details,  and,  as  such,  will  be 
speedily  noticed.  In  the  mean  time,  the  best 
idea  of  the  vicissitudes  and  adventures  to  be  en- 
countered in  travelling  through  these  rugged 
chains,  may  be  formed  from  the  relation  of  P.  F. 
Engelmann,  who,  in  1785,  escorted  through  it 
an  embassy  to  Persia. 

This  expedition  consisted,  on  the  Russian  side, 
of  two  officers  and  six  Cossack  soldiers,  with  two 
interpreters.  The  Persian  ambassador  was  also 
there,  with  his  train,  and  they  had  in  all  twenty- 
seven  riders,  and  twenty-three  pack-horses.  From 
the  ruggedness  of  the  roads,  they  could  attempt 
to  travel  only  on  horseback.  They  set  out  on 
the  14th  January,  a  season  when  the  difficulties 
of  travelling  must  be  felt  in  their  utmost  force. 
The  embassy  passed  through  the  territory  of  the 
Little  Kabarda,  without  experiencing  much  ob- 
struction. Four  days  brought  them  to  the  foot 
of  the  mightiest  snowy  barrier  of  the  Caucasus. 
Here,  on  the  steep  banks  of  the  Terek  on  the 
northern  side,  and  of  the  Araqui  on  the  southern. 


ENGELMANN.  401 

a  road  had,  within  the  last  two  years,  been  labo- 
riously effected.  It  was  bordered  on  each  side  by 
walls  of  rock,  rising  into  pyramidal  peaks  of  pro- 
digious height,  and  leaving  a  space,  which,  at  its 
greatest  breadth,  did  not  exceed  1.50  feet.  By 
this  route,  however,  waggons  could  pass  in  sum- 
mer ;  but,  in  winter,  the  snow  was  drifted  in  the 
ravines  to  such  a  depth,  as  entirely  to  block  up 
the  passage  ;  and  the  mountains  could  be  crossed 
only  by  climbing  on  foot  or  on  horseback  over 
their  highest  ridges.  These  precipitous  summits 
of  Caucasus  were  held  by  a  race  called  Ossetes, 
whose  abodes  resemble  fortresses,  defended  by 
round  towers.  They  have  a  language  of  their 
own,  resembling  none  but  the  Persian,  and  are 
mere  heathens,  worshipping  dogs  and  cats. — 
The  embassy  had  not  gone  far,  when  they  came 
to  a  narrow  pass,  which  they  found  entirely 
blocked  up  by  these  banditti,  demanding  toll ; 
but  as  there  was  a  regular  stipulation  that  every 
thing  Russian  should  pass  free,  the  cliief  refused 
to  give  them  the  smallest  article.  They  then 
threatened  to  roll  down  huge  fragments  of  rock, 
and  discharged,  in  fact,  a  few  shots,  without, 
however,  doing  any  injury.  The  chief,  then,  hav- 
ing an  escort  of  200  light  horse,  sent  them  by  a 
circuit  of  nearly  thirty  miles,  to  take  the  moun- 
taineers in  the  rear,  who,  as  soon  as  they  saw  thisi 

VOL.  III.  c  c 


402  THE  CAUCASUS. 

manoeuvre,  retreated,  and  allowed  the  Russians 
to  pass. 

The  expedition  had  now  only  to  encounter  the 
obstacles  of  nature,  which  consisted  in  five  suc- 
cessive ridges,  the  loftiest  of  which  was  quite 
above  the  clouds.  In  ascending,  they  experienc- 
ed the  most  sudden  change  of  the  climate  and  of 
nature.  Hitherto  the  weather  had  been  mode- 
rate, and  the  hills  and  cliffs  being  still  decked  in 
varied  hues,  had  exhibited  magnificent  landscapes. 
In  March,  he  thinks,  the  Caucasus  must  be  quite 
a  paradise,  when  the  lofty  woods  which  stretch 
along  the  sides  and  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
exhibit  all  their  pomp  of  verdure.  A  very  diffe- 
rent scene  was  presented  in  winter,  amid  its 
snowy  heights.  They  had  now  to  pass  the  five 
ridges,  each  from  two  to  three  miles  in  breadth. 
The  first  was  surmounted  easily  and  cheerfully. 
They  then  passed  the  Terek,  which,  though 
rapid,  stood  in  need  of  no  bridge,  except  that  of 
its  own  eternal  ice,  formed  by  the  snows  of  year 
after  year  piled  over  each  other,  and  which  the 
most  intense  heat  of  summer  never  dissolved.  Its 
existence  is  known  only  by  the  loud  dashing  of 
its  waves,  which  is  heard  beneath.  They  came 
now  to  the  second  ridge,  much  more  steep  and 
difficult.  Here,  between  two  lofty  v/alls  of  rock, 
one  above  and  the  other  beneath,  with  a  torrent 
rolling  along  its  foot,  there  intervened  only  a  path 


ENGELMANN.  T  403 

of  from  two  to  three  feet  broad.  As  they  proceed- 
ed along  it  with  trembling  steps,  a  tempest  of  wind 
arose,  and  blew  upon  them  an  immense  quantity  of 
snow,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  ambassador,  his 
steward,  and  another  rider,  with  their  horses,  went 
over  the  precipice,  and  sunk  into  the  abyss.  The 
party  had  not  the  least  hope  of  their  preserva- 
tion ;  but,  by  the  greatest  good  fortune,  there 
happened  a  little  beneath  to  be  a  projection  of  the 
rock,  upon  which  they  all  three  lighted.  They 
could  not  at  first  be  seen  beneath  the  snow  which 
covered  them  ;  but  in  the  course  of  two  or  three 
minutes,  they  worked  out  their  heads  and  shewed 
themselves.  It  behoved  the  whole  party  to  stop 
and  consider  what  was  to  be  done.  The  Cossack 
and  Ossetine  guides,  who  had  some  experience  in 
such  cases,  were  let  down  by  strong  ropes,  which 
they  tied  round  the  ambassador,  and  the  other 
two  afflicted  sufferers,  and  thus  drew  them  up  to 
the  road.  The  ambassador,  to  the  agreeable  sur- 
prise of  all,  was  found  without  any  injury,  except 
the  greatest  possible  terror.  Even  two  of  the 
horses  were  saved  ;  and  our  author  asserts,  that 
if  the  third  had  acted  with  all  the  judgment 
which  this  animal  usually  displays,  he  might  have 
extricated  himself  also.  Engehnann,  however, 
grievously  laments  his  fate,  on  being  detained 
thus  long  in  this  perilous  station,  amid  so  furious 


404'  THE  CAUCASUS. 

a  tempest,  which  threatened  every  instant  to  hurl 
them  all  into  the  same  abyss. 

After  passing  this  mountain  with  so  much  toil 
and  anguish,  the  Russians  found,  rising  out  of  it, 
another,  which  appeared  still  more  formidable. 
This  was  the  third  and  most  elevated  of  the 
snowy  peaks.  In  looking  up,  it  appeared  an  im- 
possibility that  they  should  ever  reach  the  sum- 
mit. Riding  was  now  out  of  the  question  ;  and 
they  were  happy  in  being  able  to  scramble  on 
foot,  sometimes  sinking  to  the  middle  in  snow. 
At  length,  through  much  peril  and  misery,  they 
reached  this  loftiest  of  the  Caucasian  summits. 
The  country  beneath  was  entirely  hid  ;  they 
saw  nothing  but  an  ocean  of  clouds,  with  wind 
and  snow  driving  around  them.  Notwithstanding 
the  excessive  cold,  fatigue  obliged  them  to  take 
an  hour's  rest.  They  began  then  to  descend  the 
southern  side,  which  they  found  still  excessively 
steep.  When  they  were  about  half  way  down, 
three  mules,  who  were  carrying  a  service  of  plate 
to  the  King  of  Persia,  fell  down  at  once  to  some 
depth,  but  so  that  their  heads  still  appeared  above 
the  snow.  Two  of  them  worked  their  way  out, 
and  safely  regained  the  road ;  but  the  other,  find- 
ing nothing  to  rest  upon,  rolled  on  to  the  top  of  a 
high  precipice,  and  fell  down  into  the  bed  of  the 
river.  The  two  boxes  containing  the  plate  rolled 
down  to  the  right  and  left.     One  arrived  entire 


ENGELMANN.  4/05 

at  the  top  of  a  rock,  about  two  hundred  feet  be- 
neath, while  the  other  was  broken,  and  the  gold 
and  silver  plates,  spoons,  and  dishes,  were  seen 
dashing  from  rock  to  rock  in  wild  confusion.  It 
was  impossible  to  stir  from  the  road  in  search  of 
them.  The  governor  of  Georgia,  however,  pro- 
mised, as  soon  as  the  ceasing  of  the  great  snows 
should  allow  those  on  the  ground  to  harden,  that 
he  would  commit  the  task  to  some  alert  moun- 
taineers ;  and  these,  in  fact,  found  not  only  the 
entire  box,  but  almost  all  the  scattered  pieces 
with  which  the  broken  one  had  been  filled. 

The  embassy  experienced  no  farther  adventure, 
but  about  one  in  the  morning  arrived  at  the 
nearest  Georgian  village.  The  road,  though  not 
more  than  twelve  miles,  had  cost  them  eighteen 
hours  of  travelling  ;  and  the  village,  though  very 
poor,  afforded  a  most  welcome  refreshment.  After 
a  day's  rest,  they  set  out  for  Teflis,  the  capital  of 
Georgia.  The  road  lay  along  the  valley  of  the 
Araqui,  which  continually  widened  as  they  des- 
cended its  stream,  till  it  became  three  or  four 
miles  broad.  It  was  covered  with  beautiful  woods 
of  beech,  chesnut,  apple,  and  pear,  with  an  under- 
wood composed  partly  of  shrubs  unknown  to 
Europe.  Through  this  wooded  vale  the  Araqui 
flows  in  various  branches,  and  the  mountains  rise 
on  each  side,  interspersed  to  half  their  height  with 
villages,  having  gardens  often  formed  upon  slopes 


406  THE  CAUCASUS. 

SO  steep,  that  it  seems  inconceivable  how  any 
thing  can  grow  upon  them.  Those  belonging  to 
the  chiefs  are  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  defended 
with  towers.  The  landscape,  he  says,  is  not  sur- 
passed by  any  thing  in  Switzerland  and  Italy. 
After  travelling  three  days  through  this  beautiful 
country,  he  came  to  Teflis.  We  are  here  quite  on 
Persian  ground,  and  in  the  tract  of  other  travel- 
lers, so  that  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  follow  his 
less  interesting  progress  to  Khoi,  where  he  quitted 
the  embassy. 

From  the  topographical  and  descriptive  works 
above  alluded  to,  of  Pallas,  Guldenstedt,  Rein- 
eggs,  Klaproth,  and  Bibertstein,  we  shall  now 
proceed  to  take  a  general  view  of  the  tribes  who 
people  the  steeps  of  Caucasus.  The  minute  de- 
tails, indeed,  with  which  these  works  are  filled, 
possess  little  interest,  unless  for  those  who  come 
into  closer  contact  than  we  do  with  these  Asiatic 
races.  In  a  general  view,  however,  society  pre- 
sents here  some  very  striking  features.  The  lead- 
ing nation  of  Caucasus  is  that  of  the  Circassians, 
called  by  the  Russians  TcherJcess,  This  remark- 
able people  present  almost  a  complete  picture  of 
what  Europe  was  during  the  height  of  the  feudal 
ages.  The  distinction  of  ranks  and  the  pride  of 
birth  are  carried  almost  to  as  lofty  a  pitch.  The 
state  consists  of  the  prince,  the  uzdens  or  nobles. 


CIRCASSIANS.  407 

and  the  vassals,  who  are  considered  nearly  in  the 
light  of  slaves.  They  consist  partly  of  hereditary 
serfs  or  bondsmen,  and  partly  of  slaves  taken  in 
war.  Their  office  is  to  till  the  ground,  drive  the 
large  ploughs  drawn  by  six  or  eight  oxen,  cut 
timber,  build  houses,  and  perform  all  other  labo- 
rious tasks.  The  Uzdens  owe  nothing  to  their 
prince  except  military  service,  with  some  presents, 
chiefly  of  cattle,  at  his  marriage,  or  any  other 
leading  era  in  his  life.  These  chiefs  seldom  ap- 
pear abroad,  unless  "  clad  in  complete  steel." 
Their  arms  consist  of  a  sabre,  dagger,  and  pistols, 
which  they  wear  in  the  girdle  ;  of  a  bow  and  qui- 
ver, which  are  fastened  with  straps  to  the  thighs  ; 
of  a  helmet  and  arm-plates  of  polished  steel ;  and 
over  all  a  coat  of  mail,  formed  of  polished  steel 
rings.  They  never  leave  the  house  without  the 
sabre  ;  but  if  they  quit  their  village,  they  must  be 
equipped  in  full  armour.  They  have  also  a  breed 
of  horses,  whose  training  and  genealogy  are  as 
carefully  studied  as  those  of  Arabia.  The  race  is 
declared  by  a  peculiar  mark  impressed  on  the 
buttock,  which  it  is  death  to  counterfeit.  The 
merits  of  these  steeds,  besides  beauty,  consist  in 
fleetness,  and  capacity  of  enduring  fatigue  ;  qua- 
lifications which  greatly  fit  them  for  those  light 
and  rapid  excursions  in  which  they  are  destined 
to  engage. 


408  THE  CAUCASUS. 

The  chiefs  of  Circassia  employ  themselves  in 
no  regular  or  pacific  occupation,  but  spend  their 
time  in  convivial  parties,  war,  hunting,  or  preda- 
tory expeditions.     They  have  proved  ever  most 
troublesome  and  precarious  subjects  to  all  those 
who  obtained  a  nominal  sovereignty  over  them. 
The  Russians,  after  defeating  them  in  several 
great  battles,  are  now  owned  as  their  masters, 
yet  do  not  attempt  to  interfere  in  their  internal 
administration  j  and  light  as  is  this  foreign  yoke, 
it  is  still  spumed  at  by  the  Circassians.     They 
make   frequent   plundering   excursions  into  the 
Russian  territory,  where  they  are  only  checked  by 
the  fortified  line  of  the  Terek.     Those  tribes  who 
distinguish  themselves  by  their  fidelity  to  Russia, 
are   said   to   suffer   more   from   the   consequent 
enmity  of  their  neighbours,  than  they  gain  by  this 
seemingly  powerful  alliance.    The  Circassians  are 
estimated  by  Pallas  at  1500  uzdens  and  10,000 
vassals  capable  of  bearing  arms.     He  considers 
them  as  the  first  light  cavalry  in  the  world.    Pro- 
bably, if  they  could  remain  at  peace  with  their 
neighbours,  whose  character  and  habits  are  simi- 
lar to  their  own,  they  might  set  the  whole  world 
at  defiance ;  but  their  ever  doing  so  is  totally  out 
of  the  question. 

One  quality  for  which  the  people  of  this  region 
have  long  been  renowned  is  beauty.  This  envied 
excellence  is  said  to  be  possessed  in  a  peculiar 


CIRCASSIANS.  409 

degree  by  the  Circassian  dames,  who  have  been 
long  the  boast  of  the  oriental  harams.  In  tropi- 
cal countries  beauty  is  usually  to  be  sought  among 
the  mountains,  where  the  fine  and  varied  tints  of 
the  temperate  climates  are  substituted  for  the 
dark  hue  produced  by  the  intense  action  of  the 
sun.  This  effect  indeed  is  often  counteracted  by 
the  poverty  and  hard  labour  to  which  the  tenants 
of  these  rude  districts  are  subjected  ;  but  here 
the  pride  and  power  of  the  nobles  exempt  their 
families  from  all  menial  tasks,  and  leaves  no- 
thing which  can  injure  the  delicacy  of  their  form 
and  complexion.  Every  means  of  improving  this 
natural  gift  is  studiously  employed.  They  are 
fed  in  the  most  sparing  manner  on  milk  and  pastry, 
administered  only  in  small  quantities.  Though 
not  immured  like  other  orientals,  they  are  carefully 
protected  from  the  injuries  of  the  air  ;  their  feet 
are  kept  warm  and  dry  by  clogs,  and  their  hands 
are  covered  with  gloves  or  mittens.  The  conse- 
quence seems  to  be,  that  though  the  Circassians 
are  not  all  beauties,  the  proportion  is  greater  here 
than  in  most  other  countries.  These  Circassian 
fair,  if  I  may  judge  from  the  descriptions  given, 
and  from  the  paintings  of  an  admirable  artist,  are 
characterized  by  a  softness  and  delicacy  of  com- 
plexion, such  as  in  Europe  we  would  almost  con- 
sider as  extreme  ;  by  fine  black  or  auburn  locks ; 
and  by  a  slender  and  elegant  form.     As  the  Cir* 


410  th;e  CAUCASUS. 

cassians  do  not  sell  even  their  peasantry,  much 
less  those  of  higher  rank,  the  seraglios  of  Persia 
and  Turkey  can  be  supplied  only  by  the  plunder- 
ing expeditions  carried  on  by  these  tribes  against 
each  other.  Of  these  exploits,  when  successful, 
the  unfortunate  maidens  are  often  the  prize ;  and 
are  then  sold  at  a  high  price  to  the  merchants, 
who  carry  them  for  sale  to  the  eastern  imperial 
cities. 

In  a  society  where  such  paramount  importance 
is  attached  to  the  distinctions  of  rank,  unequal 
marriages  are  naturally  viewed  with  deep  repro- 
bation. The  vassal  who  marries  the  daughter  of 
an  Uzden,  or  the  Uzden  who  marries  a  Princess, 
incurs  the  penalty  of  death.  Deep  disgrace  is 
also  attached  to  the  violation  even  of  minor  dis- 
tinctions between  the  different  classes  of  nobles. 
The  peculiar  care  taken  to  train  the  female  part 
of  the  society  to  those  qualities  which  may  ren- 
der them  agreeable  to  the  other  sex,  does  not 
seem  to  secure  any  corresponding  degree  of  at- 
tention. Marriage  is  transacted  by  the  parent  or 
guardian  ;  and  the  first  year  is  characterized  by 
an  almost  Spartan  separation,  the  husband  and 
wife  living  in  separate  houses,  and  seeing  each 
other  only  by  clandestine  visits.  Even  after  that 
period  little  social  intercourse  takes  place  between 
them  ;  they  do  not  even  appear  to  each  other's 
visitors.   Education  in  the  families  of  the  Princes 


CIRCASSIANS.  411 

is  arranged  upon  a  most  singular  system.  Im- 
mediately on  the  birth  of  a  child  it  is  delivered 
to  a  noble,  who  is  supposed  to  be  distinguished 
for  merit  and  accomplishments,  and  on  whom  the 
whole  charge  of  its  training  devolves,  the  parents 
never  even  seeing  it  till  that  is  completed.  His 
business  is  to  make  the  daughter  a  complete 
beauty,  and  the  son  an  accomplished  robber; 
after  which  he  presents  them  to  the  parents,  tak- 
ing care  previously  to  provide  the  young  lady 
with  a  husband  of  her  own  rank. 

The  law  of  hospitality,  and  the  right  of  re- 
venge, exist  in  equal  force  among  the  Circassians 
as  in  all  other  rude  tribes.  Their  chief  wealth 
consists  in  their  flocks  and  herds,  which  they  se- 
cure at  night,  by  building  their  villages  in  the 
form  of  a  square  or  circle,  the  interior  of  which 
forms  a  court  for  the  cattle.  The  castle  of  the 
chief  is  built  on  an  eminence,  distinct  from  the 
village.  Their  fields  are  cultivated,  though  in  a 
rude  and  clumsy  manner  ;  and  bees  are  reared  so 
successfully,  that  honey  becomes  even  an  article 
of  export.  The  animal  and  vegetable  produc- 
tions are  very  various,  according  as  they  are 
found  in  the  valleys,  or  in  the  different  stages  of 
the  mountainous  ascent ;  and  the  Caucasus  thus 
affords  an  ample  field  for  the  labours  of  the  bo- 
tanist. 


412  THE  CAUCASUS. 

Although  the  Circassians  form  the  prominent 
race,  this  region  is  divided  among  innumerable 
other  tribes,  differing  in  name,  and  in  minute 
national  peculiarities  ;  but  the  proud  and  warlike 
sway  of  the  chiefs,  the  beauty  of  the  females,  and 
the  rude  and  predatory  habits  of  the  whole  so- 
ciety, appear  to  be  nearly  the  same  in  all.  The 
Ossetes,  of  whose  dealings  we  have  had  some  ob- 
servation, inhabit  the  Elbruz,  or  snowy  steeps  of 
the  Caucasus,  rising  above  Circassia.  They  are 
considerably  ruder,  and  the  nobles  have  much  less 
power.  To  the  east,  bordering  on  the  shores  of 
the  Caspian,  are  the  widely  diffused  nation  of  the 
Lesghis  or  Lesghians,  a  race  of  formidable  bar- 
barians, who  have  always  been  terrible  to  the 
Persian  monarchy ;  and  it  has  been  said,  a  Sophi 
is  mad  who  will  attempt  to  make  war  against 
them.  Their  women  are  said  to  be  as  beautiful 
as  the  Circassians,  and  have  also  the  reputation  of 
being  heroines,  like  their  reported  Amazonian 
ancestors.  Along  the  Black  Sea,  the  ruling 
people  are  the  Abasses,  generally  agreeing  with 
the  Circassians,  but  considerably  ruder.  The 
Truchmens,  Nogais,  and  Kumuks,  are  Tartar 
tribes,  who  wander  over  the  plains  which  extend 
along  the  foot  of  Caucasus, 

One  of  the  circumstances  most  characteristic 
of  these  numerous  tribes,  is  the  vast  variety  of 
their  languages.     There  is  not  a  people,  however 


THE  CAUCASUS.  413 

small,  which  has  not  a  distinct  one  of  its  own. 
Sometimes  the  dialects  of  the  two  immediately 
contiguous,  do  not  bear  the  slightest  resemblance 
to  each  other.  The  original  of  each  can  often 
be  found  only  at  so  great  a  distance,  that  it  is 
difficult  to  conceive,  how  any  communication 
could  have  existed.  Some  insist,  that  these  are 
languages  radically  different  from  those  that  can 
be  found  in  any  other  part  of  Europe  or  Asia. 
The  true  cause  of  this  variety  probably  is,  that 
the  extraordinary  natural  strength  of  this  region 
has  rendered  it  an  asylum,  often  to  distant  tribes, 
in  the  successive  tempests  of  invasion  by  which 
this  part  of  Asia  has  so  often  been  desolated. 


CHAPTER  11. 


SIBERIA EARLY  DISCOVERIES. 


First  Discovery  and  Conquest  hy  the  Russians. — Bell. 


Asia  wants  a  temperate  zone.  But  for  this, 
her  vast  extent,  and  the  early  civilization  of  her 
southern  empires,  must  have  secured  her  from 
being  so  far  outstripped  by  Europe  in  all  the  arts 
and  pursuits  of  life.  That  part  of  her  territory 
•which,  as  to  its  place  on  the  globe,  would^  come 
under  the  above  description,  enclosed  by  enor- 
mous chains  of  mountains,  elevated  into  bleak 
table  lands,  and  deprived  of  all  maritime  commu- 
nication, wants  the  means  of  raising  itself  to 
a  high  place  in  the  scale  of  improvement.  It  has 
surpassed  tropical  Asia  in  arms,  and  has  pro- 
duced a  continued  succession  of  conquerors  ;  but 
it  has  derived  from  that  region  all  its  arts  and  in- 
tellectual culture.  Proceeding  northward,  as  we 
now  do,  to  the  immense  tracts  bounded  by  the 
Icy  Sea,  the  prospect  becomes  still  more  gloomy. 


SIBERIA.  415 

Nature,  indeed,  presents  herself  on  an  extended 
scale,  but  everywhere  with  a  vast  and  dreary  mo- 
notony. Endless  frozen  plains  j  rivers,  whose 
broad  and  sluggish  stream  reflects  only  the  dark 
pine  forest ;  a  few  shivering  natives,  roaming 
through  the  woods  in  quest  of  prey  :  such  is  the 
only  spectacle  presented  from  one  to  the  other  of 
its  distant  extremities.  In  our  eyes  it  is  render- 
ed still  more  dismal,  by  its  being  a  land  of  exile. 
The  victim  of  imperial  resentment,  imprisoned 
in  its  boundless  wilds,  is  cut  off,  as  it  were, 
from  all  civilized  and  social  existence.  Yet  the 
active  genius  of  the  Russian  government  has  dis- 
covered treasures  even  in  this  lost  and  neglected 
portion  of  the  globe.  Mines  of  extraordinary 
value  have  been  found  in  the  bow^els  of  its  moun- 
tains ;  a  beneficent  nature  has  furnished  to  its 
animals  defences  against  the  cold,  the  richness 
and  beauty  of  which  human  art  cannot  rival ;  and 
vast  tracts  are  covered  with  such  rich  pasture,  as 
to  indicate,  that  at  some  future  period  they  may 
support  nations  as  populous  as  those  which  now 
inhabit  the  most  improved  parts  of  the  Russian 
territory. 

Russia,  during  the  middle  ages,  was  too  fre- 
quently overrun  by  her  eastern  neighbours  to 
think  of  carrying  her  arms  into  their  territory. 
Even  after  their  divided  power  had  enabled  her 

in  some  degree  to  consolidate  her  empire,  the 

as 


416  SIBERIA. 

southern  frontier  was  still  closely  pressed.  It  was 
from  her  northern  province  of  Archangel  that  an 
opportunity  first  occurred  of  penetrating  into  Si- 
beria. The  Samoiedes  of  the  Obi  and  Petchora 
came  along  the  Wichida  (Vitenegda)  to  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Dwina,  where  they  exchanged 
their  furs  with  the  Russians.  Anika  StrogonofF, 
who  superintended  some  salt  works  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood, first  planned  expeditions  into  their  own 
territory.  Purchas,  who,  from  a  corruption  of 
the  first  name,  calls  him  OneekOf  gives  some  de- 
tails of  his  early  operations.  He  professes  to  de- 
rive them  chiefly  from  Hakluyt,  who  "  had  not 
^-  attayned  unto  it  without  great  paynes."  It  had 
been  revealed  to  him  by  some  friends  at  the  Rus- 
sian court,  who  had  acted  thus  in  direct  opposi- 
tion to  the  orders  of  their  government,  so  that,  if 
discovered,  "  doubtless  it  would  cost  them  all 
"  their  lives."  Oneeko,  it  is  said,  seeing  the 
valuable  furs  brought  by  these  rude  visitors,  be- 
came most  desirous  to  know  "  from  whence  tli^y 
*'  came,  or  what  countryes  they  did  inhabit, 
"  easily  conjecturing  that  great  wealth  was  there 
*'  to  be  gotten.  Accordingly,  he  sent  a  party, 
"  with  divers  base  merchandize,  as  small  bells, 
"  and  other  like  Dutch  small  wares."  For  these 
they  obtained  a  great  value  in  furs,  and  carried 
on  a  very  profitable  trade.  The  natives,  ignorant 
of  bread,  subsisted  entirely  on  the  flesh  of  wild 


EARLY  DISCOVERIES.  417 

animals,  whom  they  killed  with  their  arrows,  and 
whose  skins  they  wore  with  the  furry  side  outside 
in  summer,  and  inside  in  winter.  They  had  nei- 
ther towns  nor  villages,  but  lived  peaceably  in 
companies,  under  the  government  of  their  old 
men.  Oneeko,  having  obtained  the  information 
sought  for,  continued  the  traffic  for  a  series  of 
years,  *'  by  meanes  whereof  the  Oneekos  grew 
"  very  mightie."  They  adorned  their  native 
town  with  handsome  edifices,  particularly  with  a 
large  church  built  entirely  of  hewn  stone  ;  *'  final- 
"  ly,  they  knew  no  end  of  their  goods."  It  being, 
however,  an  established  proverb  in  Russia,  that 
"  he  which  hath  no  friends  in  court,  is  scarce  to 
"  be  accounted  in  the  number  of  the  living,'* 
Oneeko  was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  the  pro- 
tection and  favour  of  Boris,  brother-in-law,  and 
ultimately  successor  to  Theodore  Ivanovitch,  the 
reigning  emperor.  Having  obtained  access  by 
suitable  presents,  he  made  a  full  declaration  of 
the  whole  affair,  stating  the  productions  and  situa- 
tion of  these  newly  discovered  countries,  and 
"  how  great  riches  might  thence  arise  into  the 
"  empire  of  Moscovia."  Boris,  highly  pleased 
with  the  intelligence,  *'  grew  into  an  ardent  de- 
"  sire  to  set  forward  this  business."  He  commu- 
nicated the  intelligence  to  the  Emperor,  who,  not 
"  sleeping  about  the  matter,"  immediately  fitted 
out  an  expedition,  consisting  chiefly  of  "  cap- 

VOL.  III.  D  d 


418  SIBERIA. 

"  taynes  and  gentlemen  of  small  abilitie,"  who 
were  willing  to  engage  in  so  remote  and  arduous 
an  undertaking.  These  messengers  penetrated 
into  the  country  of  the  Samoiedes  j  and,  on 
meeting  the  people,  offered  presents,  "  such  as 
"  were  of  small  and  almost  no  value  to  them- 
"  selves,  but  which  seemed  so  precious  to  the 
"  other,  that  when  the  Moscovites  were  coming 
"  affarre  off  towards  them,  they  would  stay  for 
"  them  with  great  dancings  and  clapping  of  their 
"  hands,  and  cast  themselves  down  at  the  feet  of 
"  the  givers,  accounting  them  altogether  as  gods." 
The  Russians  penetrated  beyond  the  Obi ;  in 
the  course  of  which  journey  they  saw  "  many 
"  wild  beasts  of  strange  shapes,  most  cleere  foun- 
"  taynes,  extraordinary  plants  and  trees,  pleasant 
"  woods  and  Samoiedes  of  divers  sorts  ;  whereof 
"  some  did  ride  on  elkes  or  loshes,  some  were 
"  drawn  on  sleds  by  rein-deer,  and  others  also 
"  were  drawn  by  dogs,  which  are  equal  to  harts 
**  for  swiftness."  They  saw  also  many  other 
things,  *'  not  before  seene,  and  therefore  to  be 
"  marvelled  at.'*  In  the  course  of  their  inter- 
course with  the  natives  they  made  much  mention 
of  their  Emperor,  "  whom  they  wonderfully  ex- 
"  tolled,  and  made  him  little  less  than  an  earthly 
"  god."  They  thus  effected  their  object  of  ex- 
citing in  the  Samoiedes  a  desire  to  visit  Moscow. 
A  few  of  that  people  were  without  difficulty  pre- 


EARLY  DISCOVERIES.  419 

vailed  upon  to  accompany  the  Russians  on  their 
return.  On  seeing  the  '*  stateliness"  of  Moscow^ 
viewing  its  magnificent  shops,  and  hearing  the 
sound  of  its  numberless  bells,  "  they  were  alto- 
"  gether  astonished,  and  thought  themselves  to 
"  be  in  some  mansion  of  the  gods."  They  could 
not,  it  is  added,  "  without  a  certain  terror,"  view 
the  Emperor  himself  as  he  proceeded  along  in 
state.  Finally,  they  ate  with  the  greatest  satis- 
faction of  the  meats  set  before  them  by  the  Mus- 
covites, and  evidently  preferred  them  to  the 
**  raw  flesh,  or  fish  dried  in  the  winde,  wherewith 
**  they  fed  themselves  at  home."  In  short,  they 
made  no  hesitation  in  agreeing,  for  themselves 
and  their  countrymen,  to  pay  each  two  skins  of 
sables,  "  which  to  themselves  were  of  no  value, 
"  but  were  esteemed  by  the  Muscovites  as  preci- 
"  ous  as  jewels." 

The  Czar,  not  content  with  the  access  thus 
obtained  into  the  interior  of  Siberia,  determined 
to  consolidate  his  dominion  by  erecting  fortresses 
upon  the  Obi.  These  were  easily  formed  by 
logs  cut  from  the  neighbouring  forests,  and  the 
interstices  filled  up  with  earth.  The  colony  was 
peopled  by  sending  into  these  parts  "  murtherers, 
**  traitors,  thieves,  and  the  scumme  of  such  as 
"  deserve  death  ;"  so  that  "  offenders  among  the 
"  Muscovites  did  no  less  tremble  at  the  name  of 
"  Siberia,  than  do  evill  persons  in  London  when 


420  SIBERIA. 

"  they  are  threatened  with  Newgate."  Emi- 
grants of  this  description  were,  it  seems,  so  nu- 
merous, that  in  a  short  time  "  they  did  almost 
"  make  a  pretie  kingdom  ;"  and  their  situation 
being  understood  to  be  by  no  means  uncomforta- 
ble, the  terror  of  this  punishment  was  much  abat- 
ed, unless  among  the  grandees,  **  who  do  as  yet 
"  very  much  loathe  the  name  of  Siberia." 

The  attention  of  the  Russian  government  was 
still  more  strongly  attracted  towards  this  region 
by  the  romantic  adventures  of  Yermack,  the 
Cossack.  Ivan  Vasilievitch  II.  having  extended 
his  dominion  as  far  as  the  Caspian,  found  the 
trade  of  his  subjects  with  Persia  and  Bokhara 
much  harassed  by  the  predatory  attacks  of  the 
Cossacks.  He  despatched,  therefore,  a  large 
force  against  them.  These  wandering  troops 
were  attacked,  routed,  many  of  them  slain,  and 
the  rest  obliged  to  save  themselves  by  flight. 
Among  these  last  were  6000,  commanded  by 
Yermack,  who,  setting  out  in  search  of  new  set- 
tlements, penetrated  beyond  the  Obi  into  the 
interior  of  Siberia.  He  there  encountered  Kut- 
chum.  Khan  of  the  Tartars,  totally  routed  him, 
took  his  capital,  and  found  himself  suddenly 
at  the  head  of  a  great  empire.  He  endeavoured 
to  secure  it  by  owning  allegiance  to  the  Czar, 
and  governing  as  his  viceroy.  His  proposition  to 
this  effect  was  gladly  accepted  ;  but  he  soon  after 


EARLY  DISCOVERIES.  421 

fell  into  an  ambush  laid  for  him  by  the  Tartars, 
was  killed,  and  the  empire  which  he  had  esta- 
blished entirely  subverted.  This  adventure,  how- 
ever, communicated  to  the  Russian  court  a  know- 
ledge of  these  countries,  and  also  of  the  facility 
with  which  they  could  be  subjugated,  of  which 
she  was  not  slow  to  avail  herself.  Purchas  in  a 
subsequent  notice  observes,  that  "  the  inhabitants 
**  that  dwell  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  Obi 
"  seek  daily  to  discover  more  and  more  j"  and 
that  "  certaine  other  cities  have  been  builded, 
"  and  more  are  builded  daily."  The  troops  in 
garrison  at  Narim  having  received  orders  to  pro- 
secute discovery  to  the  eastward,  set  out,  and 
"  travelling  through  certaine  vast  deserts  (the 
"  Barabenski  steppe),  through  many  faire  coun- 
"  treys,  many  woods  and  rivers,  came  to  a  new 
"  nation  called  Tingoesi  (Tungouses).'*  These 
people,  it  is  said,  "  were  deformed  with  swellings 
"  under  their  throats,  and  in  their  speech  they 
"  thrattled  like  Turkey-cocks."  They  were  gen- 
tle, however,  and  were  easily  persuaded  by  the 
Samoiedes  to  submit  to  the  light  dominion  of  the 
Russians,  whose  only  demand  consisted  in  a  few 
furs.  They  stated  their  habitation  to  be  upon 
the  great  river  Jenisce  (Yenisei),  which  rolled 
through  a  fertile  country,  and  was  bounded  by 
high  mountains  to  the  east.  The  Russians  soon 
penetrated  to  the  Yenisei,  and  to  some  distance 


422  SIBERIA. 

beyond  it.  Meeting  with  nothing  remarkable, 
and  being  informed  that  powerful  and  formidable 
nations  dwelt  to  the  south,  they  returned  ;  leav- 
ing instructions  with  the  Tungouses  to  prosecute 
discovery  as  far  as  they  could.  The  Tungouses 
executed  this  commission  with  great  diligence. 
The  following  year  they  discovered  another  great 
river,  which  they  called  Pisida,  and  which  is  pro- 
bably the  Angara.  On  the  opposite  side  they 
found  a  people  *'  of  good  understanding,  well  set, 
"  with  small  eyes,  flat  faced,  browne  colour,  and 
"  enclining  to  tawnie."  They  understood  no- 
thing of  their  language,  but  could  only  remark 
the  almost  continual  repetition  of  the  syllables  om 
onii  and  a  frequent,  as  well  as  loud,  tolling  of 
brazen  bells.  These  symptoms  clearly  point  out 
the  Mongols  or  Burats,  and  the  ceremonies  of  the 
Shaman  religion.  These  things  being  reported  by 
the  Tungouses,  the  Muscovite  government  fitted 
out  a  new  expedition  of  seven  hundred  men,  who 
in  the  following  year  penetrated  to  the  banks  of 
the  Pisida.  They  there  distinctly  heard  the  toll- 
ing of  the  bells,  and  when  the  wind  blew  from 
the  opposite  side,  could  distinguish  the  noise  of 
men  and  horses.  Their  courage  failing  for  crossing 
the  river,  they  returned  to  Siberia  ;  where  being 
examined  upon  oath,  they  deponed,  "  that  in  the 
"  moneth  of  Aprile  they  were  very  much  de- 
**  lighted  with  the  exceeding  faire  shew  of  that 


EARLY  DISCOVERIES.  423 

"  countrey ;  and  that  they  had  seen  therein  many 
"  rare  plants,  flowers,  fruits,  trees,  fowles,  and 
**  wild  beasts."  This  report  being  conveyed  to 
court,  the  Emperor  Boris  received  it  with  great 
interest,  and  orders  were  given  to  prepare  an 
embassy  with  presents,  which  might  carry  greater 
weight  with  it  than  the  usual  train  of  light  Cossacks 
and  Tungouses.  This  design,  however,  was  inter- 
rupted by  the  violent  civil  wars  which  broke  out 
in  Russia.  Purchas  conjectures  that  this  newly 
discovered  country  is  the  boundary  of  Cataia, 
and  fears  "  the  Muscovites  will  lose  their  labour 
**  if  they  ever  return  thither."  In  fact,  how- 
ever, the  progress  of  their  arms  and  discovery 
was  only  for  a  short  time  suspended.  Push- 
ing on  in  a  different  direction,  they  reached 
the  Lena,  and  descended  its  stream  to  the 
shores  of  the  Icy  Sea.  In  1639,  Dimitrei  Ko- 
pilof  reached  the  coast  of  the  Eastern  Ocean. 
Thus,  in  the  course  of  fifty  years,  a  few  wander- 
ing Cossacks  and  hunters  added  to  the  Russian 
empire  an  extent  of  territory,  comprehending 
about  a  fourth  part  of  the  circumference  of  the 
globe.  Proceeding  in  another  direction,  and 
overcoming  the  first  fear  inspired  by  a  view  of 
the  Mongols,  they  founded  the  towns  of  Irkutsk 
and  Nertschinsk,  and  estabhshed  a  chain  of  posts 
along  the  Amour.  Here,  however,  they  came  in 
contact  with  the  provinces  tributary  to  China; 


424  SIBERIA. 

and  a  series  both  of  negociation  and  of  military 
encounter  ensued,  before  the  boundaries  of  the 
two  empires  were  finally  settled. 

We  shall  now  survey  the  state  of  these  regions 
in  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  as  exhibited 
in  the  faithful  narrative  of  Bell,  who  passed 
through  it  in  accompanying  the  embassy  of  Is- 
mailoff  to  the  court  of  China.  The  embassy  pro- 
ceeded from  Petersburg  to  Moscow,  and  thence 
along  the  Oka  and  Volga  to  Kazan.  In  the 
country  beyond  Kazan,  the  most  striking  circum- 
stance was  the  quantity  of  honey  produced  from 
bee-hives  formed  out  of  the  hollowed  trunks  of 
trees.  He  has  seen  above  a  hundred  in  one  vil- 
lage. Passing  through  Klinof  and  Kaygorod,  he 
came  to  Solikamskoi,  a  large  and  populous  town 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Kama,  now  included 
in  Siberia.  Near  this  town  were  numerous  rocks 
of  salt,  the  property  of  Baron  StrogonofT.  The 
mineral  was  obtained  by  digging  pits  in  the  mine, 
and  allowing  them  to  fill  with  water,  which  was 
afterwards  evaporated  like  sea-water.  Elsewhere, 
they  discovered  the  spots  where  the  salt  rivulets 
discharged  themselves  under  ground  into  the 
rivers,  and  by  an  ingenious  machinery  contrived 
to  block  up  the  passage,  and  obtain  the  water  for 
evaporation.  He  was  much  struck  by  the  con- 
struction of  the  vessels  called  lodias,  in  which  the 


BELL.  425 

salt  is  conveyed  to  Moscow.  They  are  often 
larger  than  a  British  first-rate,  flat  bottomed,  with- 
out a  nail  in  the  construction,  with  one  mast  and 
one  sail.  Six  or  eight  hundred  men  are  required 
to  steer  this  huge  machine,  which,  in  ascending 
the  Volga,  must  often  be  artificially  dragged  on. 
In  this  neighbourhood  also  were  excellent  iron 
mines,  and  specimens  of  that  singular  mineral 
asbestos.  It  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  a 
huntsman,  who  wished  to  use  the  flakes  as  wad- 
ding to  his  gun  ;  but  finding  the  gunpowder  pro- 
duced no  effect,  tried  it  in  the  fire.  Astonished 
to  find  it  proof  against  that  element,  he  conceived 
it  possessed  by  the  devil,  and  carried  it  for  reme- 
dy to  the  priest.  All  the  exorcisms  of  that  learn- 
ed person  proving  of  no  avail,  the  matter  was  so 
widely  talked  of,  that  it  came  to  the  ears  of  some 
one  who  understood  the  qualities  of  the  sub- 
stance. 

After  leaving  Solikamskoi,  our  traveller  began 
to  ascend  the  Ourals,  usually  considered  the 
boundary  between  Europe  and  Asia.  He  found 
them  about  forty  miles  broad,  but  not  nearly  so 
hisrh  as  those  he  had  seen  in  Persia,  and  other 
parts  of  Asia.  They  are  covered  with  tall  firs, 
larches,  birch,  and  other  trees  of  a  northern  cli- 
mate. After  fifteen  hours  employed  in  passing 
them,  he  came  into  a  rich  and  cultivated  country, 
and  in  the  evening  reached  Verchaturia,  the  cus- 


426  SIBERIA. 

tom-house  between  Russia  and  Siberia.  Ten  per 
cent  is  here  levied  on  all  money  and  merchandise 
passing  through ;  an  impost  which,  after  all  Mr 
Bell's  justification,  appears  to  us  very  heavy  and 
injudicious.  The  embassy  now  proceeded  by 
Epantshin  and  Tumen,  and  in  a  few  days  came  in 
sight  of  Tobolsk,  capital  of  Siberia.  This  city  is 
situated  on  a  high  bank  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Irtysch  and  the  Tobol,  and  with  its  white  walls  and 
gilded  cupolas,  makes  a  fine  appearance.  It  is  for- 
tified with  a  strong  brick  wall,  and  garrisoned  by 
five  or  six  thousand  regular  troops.  It  was  the  abode 
of  many  Russian  merchants,  enriched  by  the  fur 
trade,  and  by  that  with  China  ;  and  contained  a 
considerable  number  of  what  were  called  Tartar 
streets,  where  that  nation  enjoyed  the  free  exer- 
cise of  their  trade  and  religion.  It  serves  also  as 
a  prison  to  a  number  of  Swedish  officers,  who 
after  being  taken  at  the  battle  of  Pultowa,  were 
distributed  in  the  different  towns  of  Siberia,  and 
particularly  here.  Unless  in  distance  from  their 
native  country,  their  lot  was  mild,  as  they  had 
free  liberty  to  walk  about,  and  could  hunt  and 
fish  in  the  finest  sporting  country  in  the  world. 
A  number  also  amused  their  solitude  with  the 
arts  and  sciences,  particularly  music  and  paint- 
ing, in  which  several  are  said  to  have  become 
eminent  proficients.  The  great  rival  to  the  Rus- 
sian power  was  then  the  Kontaysha  of  the  Kal- 


BELL.  427 

mucs,  whose  dominion,  broken  and  divided,  has 
since  ceased  to  be  formidable.  He  could  then, 
it  is  said,  muster  100,000  horse.  These  people 
lived  all  in  tents,  roving  from  place  to  place,  and 
commiserating  those  who  were  confined  to  one 
place  of  abode.  The  Kontaysha  received  the 
Russian  deputies  in  his  tent,  seated  them  on  mats, 
and  entertained  them  with  tea. 

After  leaving  Tobolsk,  the  travellers  saw  only 
Tartar  villages,  in  which  the  houses  were  built  of 
wood  and  moss,  with  a  large  square  hole,  stopped 
up  with  ice,  serving  for  a  window  : — in  the  inside 
a  large  bench,  covered  with  mats  or  skins,  on 
which  the  whole  family  sat  during  the  day,  and 
slept  during  the  night.  After  travelling  upwards 
of  three  hundred  miles,  they  came  to  Tara,  where 
preparations  were  to  be  made  for  passing  the 
steppe  of  Baraba,  a  large  marshy  plain,  full  of 
lakes,  and  overgrown  with  tall  woods  of  aspin, 
willows,  and  other  aquatics.  It  affords,  however, 
considerable  room  for  hunting  and  fishing.  A 
guard  was  necessary  to  secure  them  from  the  pre- 
datory incursions  of  the  Kalmucs.  The  inhabi- 
tants lived  in  most  miserable  huts,  half  sunk  be- 
low ground,  and  wore  nothing  but  long  coats  of 
sheep  skin,  without  even  a  shirt.  They  are  much 
addicted  to  the  Shaman  superstitions,  and  have 
numerous  diviners,  particularly  of  the  female  sex. 
One  whom  they  visited,  a  handsome  young  wo- 


428  SIBERIA. 

man,  produced  the  shay  tan,  a  piece  of  broad  wood 
cut  into  a  rude  resemblance  of  the  human  head, 
adorned  with  various  silk  and  woollen  rags.  She 
then  brought  forth  a  small  drum,  with  many  brass 
and  iron  rings.  Having  performed  for  some  time 
on  this  instrument,  accompanied  with  a  dismal 
song,  in  which  the  neighbours  joined  in  chorus, 
she  sat  down,  and  declared  herself  ready  to  deliver 
her  oracles.  They  put  several  questions ;  and  con- 
siderable address  was  shewn  in  investing  her  an- 
swers with  a  degree  of  ambiguity,  which  might 
save  her  credit  in  any  event. 

After  about  a  fortnight  spent  in  passing  this 
dreary  plain,  the  embassy  reached  the  Obi,  and 
found  a  wooded  country,  diversified,  about  the 
villages,  by  corn  and  pasture.  In  five  days  they 
arrived  at  Tomsk,  situated  on  an  eminence  upon 
the  banks  of  the  river  Tomm,  and  in  a  fertile  and 
pleasant  country.  To  the  south  is  a  range  of 
hills,  beyond  which  is  an  extensive  plain,  covered 
with  numerous  tombs,  erected  seemingly  in  ho- 
nour of  departed  warriors,  and  marking,  as  he 
supposes,  the  site  of  numerous  battles.  It  is  be- 
come a  regular  trade  at  Tomsk  to  go  and  dig 
these  tombs,  where  they  find  not  only  armour 
and  the  trappings  of  horses,  but  gold,  silver,  and 
even  precious  stones.  These  have  evidently  been 
deposited  according  to  the  ancient  custom  of 
burying  with  deceased  chieftains  all  his  most  pre- 


BELL.  429 

cious  effects.  After  leaving  Tomsk,  they  came 
to  a  large  river,  Tzulimm,  which  they  ascended 
on  the  ice  ;  seeing  for  six  days  neither  house  nor 
inhabitants,  but  only  tall  firs  rising  like  pyramids, 
and  spreading  their  branches  so  wide  as  to  render 
the  woods  almost  impassable.  The  Tzulimm 
Tartars  are  a  poor,  ignorant,  harmless  race,  living 
in  huts  half  sunk  under  ground,  with  afire  in  the 
middle,  round  which  are  benches,  where  the 
whole  family  eat  and  sleep.  Eleven  days  after 
leaving  Tomsk  they  came  to  Yeniseisk,  a  large  and 
populous  place  on  the  great  river  Yenisei,  and 
containing  an  excellent  market  for  furs.  The 
animals  chiefly  caught  are  white  hares  and  black 
foxes,  also  a  species  called  piessi^  with  a  thick, 
soft,  downy  fur,  which  is  much  valued  in  China. 
Quitting  Yeniseisk,  they  proceeded  along  the 
Tongouska,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Yenisei. 
Here  they  found  the  Tungouses,  who  are  describ- 
ed a  brave,  active,  honest  people,  and  their  fe- 
males virtuous.  They  have  no  permanent  abodes, 
but  range  through  the  woods  and  along  the 
rivers ;  and  whenever  they  incline  to  fix,  put  to- 
gether a  few  spars  in  a  conical  form,  leaving  a 
hole  at  the  top  for  the  smoke.  Their  employ- 
ment is  hunting,  and  their  arms  bows  and  arrows, 
with  which  they  will  attack  the  fiercest  creatures, 
and  even  bears.  They  have  light  wooden  shoes 
five  feet  long,  with  which  they  are  able  to  walk 


430  SIBERIA. 

in  the  deepest  snow  without  sinking.  The  most 
valued  animal  is  the  sable,  whose  fur  is  so  deli- 
cate that  it  is  spoiled  by  the  least  wound  or  hurt. 
It  is  therefore  pursued  till  it  seeks  shelter  on  the 
top  of  a  tree,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  hunter 
spreads  his  nets,  then  kindles  a  fire,  the  smoke 
of  which  the  sable  being  unable  to  endure,  drops 
down,  and  is  caught  in  the  net. 

We  shall  not  pause  upon  our  traveller's  hearsay 
accounts  of  Yakoutsk  and  Kamtchatka,  which  have 
since  been  fully  explored  by  personal  observation. 
He  left  the  banks  of  the  Tongouska  for  those  of 
the  Angara,  where  he  found  the  Burats,  a  hardy 
pastoral  people,  with  a  breed  of  large  horned  cat- 
tle, and  broad  tailed  sheep.  They  were  former- 
ly subject  to  the  Mongol  government,  but  now 
live  quietly  under  the  Russians,  though  they  have 
not  yet  learned  from  them  to  till  the  fertile  soil 
which  they  inhabit.  The  embassy  came  then  to 
Irkutsk,  a  fortified  town  of  2000  houses,  situated 
in  a  country  abounding  in  game.  They  had  in- 
tended to  cross  the  Baykall  upon  the  ice  j  but 
the  heat  was  now  so  intense,  and  all  the  rivers 
beginning  to  open,  that  though  assured  it  was 
still  safe,  they  durst  not  venture  themselves  on 
the  surface  of  so  great  a  sea  unless  in  ships.  They 
determined  to  remain  at  Irkutsk  till  its  navigation 
should  be  possible.  At  this  place  Bell  was  intro- 
duced to  a  celebrated  Shaman,  who  was  also  a 


BELL.  431 

Lama,  and  whose  wonderful  performances  he  was 
desirous  to  see.  This  great  personage,  however, 
pronounced  himself  unable  to  do  any  thing  in  a 
Russian  house  where  there  were  images,  and  they 
were  obliged  to  repair  to  a  Buratsky  tent  in  the 
suburbs.  Here  this  learned  man  was  found  smok- 
ing tobacco,  and  for  half  an  hour  after  their  arri- 
val he  remained  seated  on  the  floor  without  any 
movement.  He  then  began  singing  and  beating 
with  sticks,  in  which  last  operation  the  whole  au- 
dience joined  in  chorus.  Next  he  began  writh- 
ing his  body  into  the  most  distorted  positions,  till 
working  himself  up  to  a  state  of  fury,  he  foamed 
at  the  mouth,  and  trode  on  the  fire  with  his  naked 
feet.  When  quite  exhausted,  he  uttered  three 
tremendous  shrieks,  after  which  he  sat  down  per- 
fectly cool,  and  declared  himself  ready  to  answer 
any  question  that  might  be  put  to  him.  The 
whole  exhibition  appeared  to  Mr  Bell  a  complete 
and  manifest  cheat ;  an  impression,  however,  very 
different  from  that  which  was  received  by  the 
Burat  spectators. 

As  soon  as  the  Baykall  was  judged  navigable, 
the  embassy  left  Irkutsk  to  embark  below  the  ca- 
taracts of  the  Angara.  This  being  the  only  out- 
let for  this  immense  lake,  the  water  rushes  tem- 
pestuously between  high  rocks,  with  a  roaring 
like  that  of  the  sea  in  a  storm.  Our  author  does 
not  conceive  the  whole  world  can  contain  a  more 

13 


43^  SIBERIA. 

awful  scene  than  is  here  presented.  Only  a  nar- 
row passage  is  left  on  the  eastern  shore  between 
the  rocks  and  the  land.  The  pilots  and  sailors 
who  navigate  the  Baykall  mention  it  always  with 
the  deepest  reverence,  calling  it  the  Holy  Sea,  and 
the  mountains  that  surround  it  the  Holy  Moun- 
tains ;  and  they  have  tales  of  the  disasters  which 
overtook  those  mariners  who  named  it  in  a  less  re- 
spectful manner.  It  is  about  300  miles  long,  and  50 
broad,  bordered  on  every  side  by  lofty  mountains, 
wooded  on  the  south,  but  to  the  west  still  cover- 
ed with  snow.  Being  overtaken  by  a  violent 
gale,  and  seeing  a  bay,  the  shore  of  which  appear- 
ed covered  with  shells  or  white  sand,  they  steer- 
ed into  it  for  shelter.  They  were  somewhat  dis- 
mayed to  find  that  these  seeming  shells  or  sands 
were  all  ice ;  and  it  was  needful  to  set  all  hands 
to  work  with  poles  and  boards  to  prevent  the 
planks  from  being  cut  by  the  floating  fragments. 
The  rattling  of  the  loose  cakes  caused  at  first 
considerable  dismay  ;  but  at  length  the  vessel  was 
safely  moored  upon  the  solid  body  of  the  ice,  and 
they  got  out  and  walked  upon  it.  Next  day  the 
wind  becoming  favourable,  they  left  their  station, 
and  reached  the  mouth  of  the  river  Selinga.  They 
then  sailed  up  to  Oudinsk,  where  they  left  their 
barks,  and  proceeded  by  land.  Being  wetted  in 
passing  a  river,  they  entered  a  tent,  and  were  re- 
freshed with  tea  prepared  in  the  Thibetian  fa- 


BELL.  433 

shion,  by  pouring  it  over  a  paste,  so  as  to  make 
it  both  meat  and  drink.  In  a  few  days  they 
reached  Selinginsk,  a  town  of  ^00  houses,  most 
injudiciously  situated  on  a  barren  and  sandy  spot 
that  produces  nothing.  Here  we  may  pause,  as 
the  narrative  now  hnks  itself  with  that  which  we 
have  already  given  of  the  journey  to  China. 


VOL.  lU.  I-  ^ 


CHAPTER  III. 

SIBERIA RECENT  TRAVELS. 

Messer Schmidt. — Gmelin. — Pallas. — Sievers. — Schangin. 

Russia,  in  her  first  expeditions  into  Siberia,  had 
any  thing  in  view  rather  than  the  extension  of 
knowledge,  or  the  scientific  exploration  of  the 
vast  provinces  thus  easily  added  to  her  empire. 
Purchas,  in  enumerating  all  the  new  and  striking 
natural  objects  to  be  found  in  these  regions,  re- 
peatedly taunts  the  Muscovites  as  "  negligent 
"  searchers  into  such  things,"  and  "  men  that 
"  care  for  nothing  but  gaine/'  This  reproach, 
however,  was  fully  wiped  off  in  the  course  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  when  they  set  to  Europe  the 
example  of  scientific  expeditions,  conducted  with 
the  most  liberal  means,  and  on  the  most  exten- 
sive scale. 

The  first  of  these  missions  did  not,  either  in 
its  means  or  result,  answer  the  expectations  which 
might  have  been  formed  from  its  author.     The 


MESSERSCHMIDT.  43o 

traveller  employed  was  Daniel  Messerschmidt, 
a  remarkable  and  highly  endowed  individual, 
whose  exertions  in  the  cause  were  certainly  very 
extraordinary.  He  studied  at  Halle,  and  acquir- 
ed a  most  profound  and  extensive  learning,  which 
included  not  only  all  the  established  branches 
of  science,  but  even  the  oriental  languages.  In 
1716  he  repaired  to  St  Petersburg;  and  in  I719 
entered  into  an  engagement  with  Peter  the  Great 
to  travel  seven  years  through  Siberia  upon  the 
small  annual  stipend  of  500  rubles  (not  quite 
L.  80).  He  performed  this  vast  journey  almost 
alone,  traversing  most  of  the  districts  surveyed 
by  future  travellers,  and  several  which  none  but 
himself  has  visited.  He  attended  with  almost 
superfluous  punctuality  to  every  point  of  his  in- 
structions. After  spending  the  whole  day  in  tra- 
velling and  collecting  objects  of  natural  history, 
he  sat  late  at  night,  and  often  till  next  morning, 
writing  his  journal.  When  any  accident  inter- 
rupted his  travelling  occupations,  he  wrote  epi- 
grams, songs,  sonnets  ;  while  at  other  times  he 
penned  theological  meditations,  particularly  on 
the  Apocalypse.  He  made  his  collections  of  na- 
tural history  without  any  assistance  except  that 
of  some  Russian  boys,  whom  he  occasionally  hired 
for  that  purpose.  Besides  giving  elaborate  draw- 
ings and  descriptions  of  animals  and  plants,  he 
stuffed  and  otherwise  preserved  as  many  of  these 


436  SIBERIA. 

as  possible.  His  ornithology  alone,  deposited  in 
the  academical  library,  amounts  to  eighteen  close- 
ly written  octavo  volumes.  He  observed  the  al- 
titude of  the  sun  at  every  place  of  importance  ; 
and  seems  in  no  degree  to  have  overlooked  any 
branch  of  science  except  mineralogy.  All  these 
merits  and  acquisitions  became  unavailing  to- 
wards his  own  welfare,  through  a  wayward  and 
hypochondriac  disposition,  which  rendered  him 
gloomy,  solitary,  mistrustful,  and  harsh,  towards 
those  whom  he  conceived  to  have  in  any  degree 
failed  towards  him.  These  defects  were  less 
conspicuous  during  the  first  years,  when  he  had 
for  a  companion  Captain  Tabbert,  who  after- 
wards, under  the  title  of  Baron  Strahlenberg, 
wrote  a  good  account  of  Northern  Asia.  His 
letters  express  the  deepest  affliction  at  the  recal 
of  this  gentleman.  "  I  separated  myself,  says  he, 
"  with  many  tears  from  the  virtuous,  honourable, 
"  and  faithful  Tabbert,  my  only  friend  and  sup- 
"  port.  I  am  now  left  wholly  abandoned,  with- 
**  out  society  or  aid."  He  continued,  however,  for 
five  years  longer  to  prosecute  alone  his  journeyings 
through  these  wild  regions  ;  but  in  this  savage 
solitude  the  peculiarities  of  his  temper  gained 
always  new  strength.  Repeated  complaints  of 
his  conduct  were  sent  to  the  chancery  of  St 
Petersburg,  and  were  too  readily  listened  to. 
On  reaching  that  capital  he  experienced  a  very 


MESSBRSCHMIDT.  437 

different  reception  from  that  which  he  conceived 
due  to  him;  and  an  inquiry^was  even  instituted 
into  his  conduct,  which  terminated,  however, 
in  his  entire  acquittal.  He  might  now  have 
obtained  a  situation  in  some  of  the  learned 
institutions ;  but,  disgusted  with  the  treatment 
which  he  had  met  with,  and  having  unfortunately 
married  a  wife  of  the  same  rash  and  violent  tem- 
per with  himself,  who  fostered  all  his  discontents, 
he  withdrew  entirely  to  Dantzic.  Disappointed, 
however,  in  his  expectations  there,  he  again  re- 
turned to  St  Petersburg,  where  he  died  in  a  state 
of  almost  entire  poverty  and  desertion.  His  ma- 
nuscripts have  remained  in  the  imperial  library, 
and  have  been  largely  used  by  subsequent  travel- 
lers, while  he  himself  was  almost  entirely  forgot- 
ten. Pallas,  his  illustrious  successor  in  the  ca- 
reer of  discovery,  has  undertaken  to  bring  his 
merits  before  the  public,  and  has  also  published 
some  extracts  from  his  journals.  One  of  them 
contains  his  journey  from  Mangasea,  the  most 
northerly  town  on  the  Yenisei,  up  the  Nishnaia 
Tungouska.  He  had  intended  to  proceed  down 
the  Yenisei  to  the  Northern  Ocean,  but  was  as- 
sured that  the  season  (June)  was  too  late  for  such 
a  journey.  In  descending  the  river  the  Tungouses 
frequently  came  out  to  him  in  little  boats,  compos- 
ed of  the  rhind  of  the  bir^ch  or  the  larch  tree.  He 
describes  them  as  a  brownish  people,  having  a 


438  SIBERIA. 

somewhat  flat  face,  with  various  figures  often 
painted  on  it,  and  wearing  short  leathern  gar- 
ments fitted  to  their  shape,  and  very  neatly  sewed. 
These  people  pleased  him  much  by  their  lively, 
frank,  and  honest  deportment.  Their  yourts, 
or  summer  huts,  consist  merely  of  poles  put  to- 
gether in  a  conical  form,  and  roofed  with  the 
bark  of  the  birch  tree.  Their  winter  abodes  are 
more  elaborate.  These  consist  of  one  apartment, 
with  windows  filled  up  with  expanded  bladder 
instead  of  glass.  The  smoke  escapes  by  a  hole  in 
the  roof,  which,  for  greater  heat,  is  covered  with 
dry  grass.  In  a  corner  stands  an  oven,  which 
serves  at  once  to  bake  bread  and  warm  the 
inmates.  The  latter,  for  their  farther  accom- 
modation, have  placed  round  the  room  broad 
benches,  on  which  they  sit,  eat,  and  sleep,  and 
beneath  which  the  provisions  are  deposited.  When 
the  oven  is  first  heated,  the  room  is  filled  with  an 
intolerable  smoke  throughout,  unless  for  three 
feet  immediately  above  the  floor ;  so  that  the 
family,  by  lying  along  the  benches,  can  keep 
themselves  clear  of  it.  In  a  short  time  it  rises  so 
high  that  they  can  stand  upright  without  being 
involved  in  its  atmosphere.  There  is  also  an 
outhouse  for  the  dogs,  where  a  fire  is  often  kin- 
dled ;  yet  these  animals  are  sometimes  frozen  to 
death.  The  most  severe  cold  lasts  from  the  mid- 
dle of  December  to  the  middle  of  January,   dur- 


MESSEUSCHMIDT.  439 

ing  which  hunting  is  impossible  ;  but  afterwards, 
by  the  use  of  snow-shoes,  they  can  go  out.  Two 
sable  skins  sell  from  thirty  to  forty  rubles  j  and 
when  each  man  in  the  company  has  got  one,  they 
consider  themselves  as  provided  for  the  year. 

In  another  of  his  long  peregrinations,  Messer- 
schmidt  traversed  Daouria,  and  particularly  exa- 
mined the  Dalai  Nor,  or  Holy  Lake,  the  source 
of  the  Argoun.  It  is  eight  geographical  miles 
long  and  five  broad,  deep  sunk  in  a  bed  of  moun- 
tains. The  ground  upon  its  banks  is  clammy, 
and  so  soft  that  a  man  can  scarcely  ride  over  it. 
The  water  is  thick,  and  has  a  whitish  appearance 
as  if  soap  had  been  dissolved  in  it.  Sixteen 
pounds  contain  upwards  of  an  ounce  of  a  heavy, 
calcareous,  and  saltish  residuum.  In  a  recess  of 
rock  in  one  of  the  surrounding  hills,  he  found  a 
large  bell,  six  cups,  and  a  box  with  earth  and 
dust,  all  composed  of  metal,  with  a  small  bundle 
of  Tungut  writings  wrapped  in  a  cotton  cloth. 
The  whole  apparatus  appeared  to  mark  the  place 
of  deposit  for  the  mortal  remains  of  a  Lama.  In 
a  plain  at  some  distance  he  found  numerous  stone 
pillars,  exceeding  the  human  size  by  one  half. 
At  a  distance  they  appeared  like  statues,  but,  on 
approaching,  proved  to  be  mere  fragments  of 
rock  standing  upright.  Of  the  same  kind  he 
supposes  may  be  the  petrified  army  reported  to 
exist  in  the  steppe  of  the  Kirghises. 


440  SIBERIA. 

This  first  scientific  attempt  to  explore  Siberia, 
the  result  of  which  was  not  altogether  honourable 
to  its  author,  was  followed  up  afterwards  on  a 
much  grander  and  more  extensive  scale.  Though 
this  new  undertaking,  however,  was  due  to  the 
spirit  created  by  Peter,  it  was  set  on  foot,  not  by 
him,  but  by  one  of  his  least  distinguished  succes- 
sors, the  Empress  Anne.  Its  primary  object  was 
to  explore  Kamtchatka,  a  part  of  the  Russian 
Asiatic  dominions  which  was  then  very  imper- 
fectly known.  The  mission,  however,  received 
instructions,  in  the  first  instance,  to  traverse  and 
survey  Siberia  ;  and  from  particular  circum- 
stances, the  functions  of  the  greater  part  of  them 
terminated  here.  There  was  employed  on  this 
occasion  a  band  of  learned  and  ingenious  tra- 
vellers, such  as  the  world  had  never  before  seen 
despatched  on  a  similar  mission  j  Gmelin,  a  phy- 
sician, chemist,  and  botanist,  of  the  first  emi- 
nence, and  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  the 
fullest  narrative  of  this  important  journey  ;  Mul- 
ler,  who  had  already  distinguished  himself  by  a 
collection  of  original  pieces  relative  to  the  history 
of  Siberia  and  Tartary ;  de  Lidele  de  la  Croyere, 
and  his  brother,  sons  to  the  celebrated  geogra- 
pher of  the  same  name,  and  who  were  intrusted 
with  the  care  of  making  the  astronomical  obser- 
vations ;  Behring,  so  celebrated  for  his  disco- 
veries in  the  eastern  seas  of  Asia ;  Steller,  also  an 


OMELIN.  441 

eminent  manner  and  naturalist,  and  distinguished 
by  his  voyages  to  Kamtchatka  and  America ; 
Kracheninikow,  whose  history  of  Kamtchatka  is 
also  valuable,  with  several  other  Russian  learned 
men,  and  two  German  artists.  They  departed 
from  Petersburg  in  August  1733. 

As  the  first  part  of  the  journey  through  Siberia 
was  by  the  same  route  followed  previously  by 
Bell,  and  afterwards  by  Pallas,  we  shall  only  stop 
to  mark  some  of  its  most  prominent  features. 
At  Kasan  they  first  saw  the  Tartars,  who  in  this 
quarter  are  all  Mahometans,  and  have  temples  for 
the  exercise  of  their  religion.  They  practise  po- 
lygamy, but  their  wives  are  not  confined,  and 
shewed  a  great  inclination  to  have  conversed  with 
the  strangers,  had  they  known  enough  of  their 
language.  A  number  of  Tartars  newly  enrolled 
were  seen  taking  the  oath  in  the  following  man- 
ner. They  placed  themselves  on  their  knees 
while  it  was  reading  to  them,  after  which  they 
kissed  the  Koran,  and  had  two  naked  swords  pre- 
sented to  them,  with  a  bit  of  bread  at  the  point 
of  each,  which  they  received  and  eat.  The  im- 
port was  understood  to  be,  a  wish  that  this  morsel 
of  bread  might  occasion  their  death,  if  they  did 
not  faithfully  serve  the  Czar.  Upon  the  whole, 
he  says,  they  are  humane,  obliging,  good  people, 
very  different  from  the  ideas  which  are  attached 
in  Europe  to  the  name  of  Tartar. 


442  SIBERIA. 

Immediately  before  passing  the  frontier  of  Si- 
beria, the  academical  travellers  saw  the  immense 
cave  of  Kungur,  about  four  miles  long,  and  two 
broad,  formed  by  nature  in  the  calcareous  rock. 
In  one  place  a  rivulet  flows  through  it,  in  ano- 
ther there  is  a  pretty  large  lake ;  and  on  one  spot 
grass  and  flowers  are  seen  growing.  It  is  not 
continuous,  but  composed  of  numerous  passages 
communicating  with  each  other ;  and  the  party 
spent  nine  hours,  and  several  times  lost  them- 
selves, in  going  through  it.  This  cave  contains 
lodgings  for  a  hundred  men,  formed  at  the  time 
when  the  Russians  sought  refuge  from  an  incur- 
sion of  the  Baschkirs.  It  did  not  appear,  however, 
to  Gmelin  so  remarkable  as  the  grotto  of  Boman 
in  the  Hartz,  or  the  Nebel  loch  in  the  duchy  of 
Wirtemberg. 

Soon  after  passing  the  boundary  of  the  Ourals, 
the  travellers  came  to  Katherinenburg,  a  new  city 
founded  by  Peter  in  1723.  It  is  the  central 
point  of  all  the  founderies  and  forges  of  Siberia, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Supreme  College  of 
Mines.  He  who  wishes  to  obtain  a  complete 
knowledge  of  the  modes  of  extracting  metals  from 
the  bowels  of  the  earth,  needs  only  a  due  resi- 
dence at  Katherinenburg.  There  is  not  a  house 
which  is  not  built,  nor  an  individual  which  is  not 
employed  by  government.  The  police  is  very 
strict  J  and  the  labourers  are  prevented  from  in- 


GMELIKT.  443 

dulging  in  their  national  habits  of  excessive  in- 
toxication, bj  a  strict  prohibition  to  sell  brandy, 
unless  on  Sunday,  and  then  only  in  limited  quan- 
tities. On  the  way  to  Tobolsk,  they  saw  the  fair 
of  Irbit  J  a  most  crowded  scene,  where  there  was 
scarcely  a  province  or  city  in  the  Russian  empire 
which  had  not  its  representatives. 

Tobolsk  was  found  a  populous  city,  divided 
into  two  parts,  the  upper  and  lower,  the  latter  of 
which  is  better  supplied  with  water,  but  subject 
to  inundation.  One-fourth  of  the  inhabitants 
were  Tartars,  and  the  rest  Russians,  either  exiles 
or  the  sons  of  exiles.  A  man  of  a  middHng  con- 
dition may  live  comfortably  on  the  annual  in- 
come of  ten  rubles,  (about  a  guinea  and  a  half)  j 
which,  however,  has  the  unlucky  effect  of  pro- 
ducing most  excessive  indolence.  The  Tartars 
here  too  are  Mahometans,  but  by  no  means  so 
cleanly  or  comfortable  as  those  of  Kasan.  They 
have  only  one  apartment,  where  the  whole  family, 
not  excluding  the  cows  and  sheep,  take  up  their 
abode.  Gmelin  never  saw  so  many  cows  in  any 
city  as  in  Tobolsk  ;  they  appeared  wherever  he 
turned  ;  so  that  the  cow,  he  thinks,  would  form 
a  most  proper  armorial  bearing  for  the  capital  of 
Siberia.  Our  travellers  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  state  of  the  dramatic  art  in  this  region 
of  the  world.  They  witnessed  the  representation 
of  a  piece  entirely  similar  to  the  ancient  mysteries 


4441  SIBERIA. 

represented  in  Europe  during  the  middle  ages. 
The  Devil,  Adam,  Death,  and  other  similar  cha- 
racters, acted  the  principal  parts. 

From  Tobolsk,  our  travellers  did  not,  like  Bell, 
cross  the  desert  of  Barabinski,  but  descended  the 
Irtisch  by  Tara  and  Jamuscheva.  Their  greatest 
annoyance  arose  from  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes, 
which  almost  covered  them,  and  by  their  stings 
caused  the  most  insupportable  pain.  Even  the 
cows,  it  is  said,  were  sometimes  so  tortured  by 
them,  that  they  fell  down  dead.  At  Jamuscheva 
an  alarm  was  excited  by  a  vast  conflagration 
spreading  along  the  steppe,  and  threatening  to 
attack  the  fortress  ;  and  all  the  women  were  pre- 
pared to  meet  it  with  tubs  of  water.  It  died 
away,  however,  of  itself;  and  such  fires  were  said 
to  be  by  no  means  unfrequent.  Near  this  place 
is  a  salt  lake,  which  may  be  called  a  wonder  of 
nature.  The  whole  of  the  bed  and  banks  is  co- 
vered with  saline  chrystal ;  and  when  a  quantity 
has  been  taken  away,  it  is  reproduced  in  a  few 
days.  The  salt  is  beautifully  white,  of  the  most 
excellent  quality  in  every  respect,  and  might  be 
sufficient  to  supply  fifty  provinces. 

The  travellers  having  viewed  the  remains  of 
some  ancient  edifices  at  Sempalat,  proceeded 
along  the  river  to  Oust  Kamengorskaia,  afler 
which  they  struck  across  the  steppe  towards 
Yeniseisk.     The  Tartars  who  occupied  this  dis- 


GMELIN.  445 

trict  were  no  longer  Mahometans,  but  devoted  to 
the  system  of  Shamanism,  which,  among  this  igno- 
rant people,  seems  to  have  degenerated  into  pure 
sorcery.  The  Kara,  or  Shaman,  maintained  his 
reputation  by  beating  on  a  magic  drum,  throwino- 
himself  into  the  most  hideous  postures,  and  pre- 
tending to  foretel  the  future.  The  road  being 
dangerous,  they  sent  only  a  detachment  to  ob- 
serve the  remarkable  monuments  at  Ablaikit. 
These  reported,  that  the  edifices  presented  no- 
thing remarkable,  the  principal  one  consisting 
merely  of  a  great  hall,  in  which,  however,  there 
was  a  large  idol  of  earth,  and  sixteen  smaller  ones. 
One  of  them  had  four  heads,  and  twenty-four 
arms.  The  most  remarkable  feature  was  the 
vast  mass  of  manuscripts,  with  which  they  could 
have  loaded  twenty  waggons,  and  they  brought 
away  a  considerable  number.  The  mission  pass- 
ed Kolivan,  founded  in  1725,  and  which  con- 
tained the  greatest  forges  in  this  part  of  Si- 
beria. The  next  place  of  consequence  was 
Kuznetsh,  a  small  town  of  five  hundred  houses, 
without  trade  or  industry.  The  natives  caught 
neither  game  nor  fish,  though  the  country 
abounded  in  the  one,  and  the  river  Tomm  in 
the  other.  They  had  at  their  tables  neither  fruit 
nor  vegetables,  nothing  but  bread  and  meat. 
The  travellers  continued  to  ascend  the  Tomm  to 
Tomsk,  at  the  confluence  of  that  river  with  the 


446  SIBERIA. 

Obi,  a  place  of  considerable  trade  with  the  KaU 
mucs  and  Bucharians,  and  a  thoroughfare  for  the 
Chinese  caravans ;  but  the  indolence  of  the  inha- 
bitants is  still  complained  of,  and  imputed  to  the 
extreme  cheapness  of  provisions. 

The  travellers  now  proceeded  across  an  exten- 
sive plain  to  Yeniseisk.  The  Tartars  here  had 
all  been  converted  by  the  diligence  of  the  Arch- 
bishop Philophei,  who  sent  round  a  body  of  Cos- 
sacks to  drive  in  as  many  as  could  be  found. 
These  collected  Tartars  were  then  plunged,  with 
or  without  their  consent,  into  the  river,  on  com- 
ing out  of  which,  a  cross  was  tied  round  their 
necks,  and  they  were  judged  sufficiently  Chris- 
tians. The  Russians  excused  themselves  by  their 
total  ignorance  of  the  language,  from  giving  them 
any  further  initiation.  In  about  ten  days  the 
party  reached  Yeniseisk,  a  town  of  about  seven 
hundred  houses,  who  might  carry  on  a  consider- 
able trade,  were  they  not  so  much  addicted  to  in- 
dolence and  drunkenness.  It  being  now  Decem- 
ber, the  cold  was  intense,  and  almost  intolerable. 
The  air  felt  as  if  frozen  j  thick  ice  was  formed  in 
the  inside  of  the  windows  ;  and  the  mercury  fell 
one  day  lower  than  they  had  ever  observed  it 
any  where.  Another  great  inconvenience  was, 
that  when  the  stove  was  heated,  a  sulphureous 
smell  issued  from  it,  which  caused  violent  head- 
achs.     This  did  not  prevent  them  from  setting 


GMELIN.  447 

out  on  the  13th  of  January  for  Krasnoiarsk,  a 
modern  city  of  from  three  to  four  hundred  houses, 
chiefly  inhabited  by  a  race  of  Tartar  militia,  call- 
ed Sluschivies,  who  live  in  easy  circumstances, 
being  rich  in  cattle,  and  the  country  round 
abounding  in  sables  and  other  animals  that  pro- 
duce valuable  furs.  The  ground  is  so  rich,  that 
it  will  yield  five  or  six  successive  crops  without 
manure.  A  considerable  number  of  antiquities, 
some  of  gold  and  silver,  are  dug  out  from  the 
tombs  in  the  neighbourhood.  Among  the  curio- 
sities of  Krasnoiarsk,  are  some  very  extensive 
grottos,  and  a  painted  rock,  the  figures  on  which, 
however,  do  not  surpass  what  might  be  made  by 
the  hand  of  a  peasant.  The  Tartars  of  this  dis- 
trict shewed  respect  for  Christianity,  but  obsti- 
nately refused  to  be  converted,  dreading  the  ne- 
cessity of  giving  up  horse-flesh,  and  adopting  the 
Russian  mode  of  life ;  which  last  they  hold  in 
such  horror,  that  they  know  of  no  stronger  male- 
diction than  this  :  "  Mayest  thou  be  condemned 
"  to  live  like  the  Russians." 

The  mission  proceeded  from  Krasnoiarsk  to 
Irkutsk,  where  they  did  not  stop,  but  immediately 
set  sail  on  the  Baikal.  This  sea  was  still  consi- 
derably encumbered  with  ice  ;  but  by  keeping 
along  its  northern  shore,  they  effected  their  voyage 
in  safety.  On  the  banks  of  the  Upper  Selinga 
Gmelin  found  a  Taischa,  or  prince  of  the  Mongol 

47 


448  SIBERIA. 

religion,  with  his  Gelum  or  priest.  From  them 
he  obtained  a  full  account  of  their  belief,  which 
appeared  to  him  an  illegitimate  branch  of  the 
Roman  Catholic.  They  assured  him,  however, 
that  the  Shamans,  who  imposed  upon  the  igno- 
rant inhabitants  of  those  regions,  formed  a  heresy 
which  was  disowned  and  condemned  by  all  the 
more  orthodox  Lamas.  The  mission  passed 
through  Selinginsk,  on  which  he  adds  nothing  to 
the  information  of  Bell,  and  proceeded  to  Nerts- 
chinsk.  This  place  had  once  been  of  some  im- 
portance, but  was  greatly  declined,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  caravans  to  the  Chinese  frontier 
no  longer  passing  through  it.  It  was  also  cruelly 
oppressed  by  the  Vaivodes,  or  Russian  governors. 
The  inhabitants  seemed  to  seek  consolation  in 
every  kind  of  drunkenness  and  debauchery,  which 
had  reduced  them  generally  to  a  complete  state 
of  disease  and  wretchedness.  From  Nertschinsk 
Gmelin  went  to  examine  the  Sawodes,  or  lead 
and  silver  mines  of  Argunsk.  These  had  been 
opened  in  1704,  by  three  Greeks,  who,  though 
carrying  on  their  operations  very  rudely,  produc- 
ed for  several  years  the  annual  amount  of  from 
40  to  60,000  libs,  of  silver.  About  I7SO,  how- 
ever, a  German  called  Heidenreick,  sent  to  exa- 
mine the  works,  not  finding  the  indications  of  this 
metal  usual  in  the  German  mines,  declared  that 
the  veins  were  exhausted,  and  that  nothing  more 


GMELIN.  449 

of  consequence  could  be  expected.  After,  how- 
ever, the  works  were  abandoned,  and  the  machi- 
nery allowed  to  go  to  ruin,  new  veins  were  disco- 
vered, and  several  during  the  stay  of  our  author. 
They  were  on  a  plain  surrounded  by  mountains, 
and  many  of  them  in  soft  earth,  so  that  they 
could  be  easily  worked. 

During  his  stay  in  this  neighbourhood,  our 
author  was  present  at  exhibitions  made  by  several 
eminent  Shaman  impostors.  One  of  them  began 
by  stripping  himself  naked,  after  which  he  put  a 
robe  of  skins,  stuck  all  over  with  instruments  of 
iron,  particularly  two  large  horns,  on  the  shoul- 
ders. He  then  gave  a  lecture  on  the  nature  of 
demons,  asserting  that  they  formed  a  regular 
hierarchy,  and  rose  above  each  other  by  various 
gradations.  He  now  began  the  usual  leaps  and 
bowlings,  during  which  the  academical  audience 
were  in  considerable  tremor,  not  for  the  devil, 
but  for  the  sharp  instruments  with  which  he  was 
begirt.  They  saw  another,  who  was  accustomed 
to  run  an  arrow  through  his  body,  and  to  exhibit 
even  the  blood  streaming  from  it.  On  being 
closely  examined,  however,  he  laughed,  and  frank- 
ly owned,  that  he  merely  thrust  the  arrow  into 
the  front  of  his  vestment,  then  drawing  his  body 
somewhat  aside,  carried  it  by  a  circuitous  line  till 
it  was  brought  out  at  the  back.  As  for  the  blood, 
it  was  clandestinely  distilled  from  a  vessel  kept 

VOL.  in.  F  f 


450  SIBERIA. 

under  his  clothes  for  that  purpose.  Finding  him 
so  communicative,  they  urged  him  strongly  to 
declare  at  once  that  he  knew  nothing  of  any 
devils,  and  had  not  the  least  idea  what  sort  of 
beings  they  were  ;  but  this  overture  he  positively 
rejected,  insisting  that  he  could  still  command  a 
limited  number,  though  he  had  not  now,  as  in  his 
youth,  a  hundred  and  twenty  ready  to  obey  his 
bidding. 

Gmelin  now  retraced  his  steps  to  Yeniseisk,  with 
the  view  of  proceeding  thence  to  explore  the  banks 
of  the  Lena.  He  proceeded  first  to  Ilimsk,  on  the 
Ilim,  a  small  and  poor  town,  which,  he  says,  may 
be  called  the  dwelling  of  sloth.  The  inhabitants 
seemed  to  have  no  idea  of  any  thing  but  drinking 
and  sleeping.  Though  the  country  abounded  in 
game,  they  had  never  thought  of  taking  any, 
unless  by  the  easy  processes  of  spreading  nets, 
and  digging  ditches.  The  soil,  however,  was  so 
fruitful,  that  the  labour  of  the  Russian  exiles  ren- 
dered provisions  cheap  and  plentiful.  The  Tun- 
gouses  in  this  neighbourhood  are  poor,  their  whole 
property  consisting  in  rein-deer,  of  which  indivi- 
duals have  flocks  of  from  five  to  fifty.  They 
hunt  chiefly  with  arrows,  and  sometimes  entrap 
wild  animals,  by  imitating  the  cries  of  their  young. 
Their  boats  are  formed  of  pieces  of  bark  sewed 
together  ;  the  smallest  contain  one,  and  the 
largest  four  persons.     Their  religion  has  nothing 


CMELIN.  4.51 

of  that  tincture  of  Shamanism  which  predominates 
in  the  countries  around  the  Baikal.  Its  only  ob- 
jects are  idols  roughly  formed  of  wood,  to  which 
they  pray  for  success  in  the  chase,  giving  them, 
'when  successful,  a  share  in  its  fruits.  Their  ce- 
neral  principle,  indeed,  is  to  keep  the  flesh  and 
skin  for  their  own  use,  and  present  the  bones  only 
in  offerings ;  but  in  cases  of  peculiar  good  for- 
tune, they  will  treat  their  gods  with  a  draught  of 
the  blood.  Should  the  chase  fail,  the  idol  suffers 
the  blame,  and  is  often  treated  in  consequence 
with  the  utmost  harshness  and  contumely. 

From  Ilimsk  the  travellers  departed  for  Ist- 
kut,  on  the  Lena,  at  its  junction  with  the  Kuta. 
They  passed  in  their  way  salt  springs  called 
Oserko,  which  supply  all  this  part  of  Siberia. 
A  pound  of  water  here  yielded  about  an  ounce 
and  a  half  of  salt.  The  woods  were  filled  with 
the  most  extraordinary  multitude  of  squirrels, 
who  were  eagerly  pursued  by  the  natives  for  the 
sake  of  their  skins.  Istkut  was  a  small  fort  and 
village,  not  differing  from  those  formerly  visited, 
except  from  the  scarcity  of  liquor,  in  consequence 
of  which  that  vehement  passion  for  it  which  reigns 
throughout  all  Siberia,  was  more  intensely  dis- 
played. Being  brought  from  a  distance,  and 
only  by  government  conveyance,  the  stock  fre- 
quently ran  out,  when  the  arrival  of  a  new  sup- 
ply produced  a  scene  of  rapture  and  furious  in- 


452  SIBERIA. 

diligence.  In  general,  it  is  laid  down  as  a  prin- 
ciple, that  no  Siberian  misses  anv  opportunity  of 
getting  drunk.  They  remained  at  Istkut  tiH  the 
Lena  thawed,  which  was  on  the  4th  Mav.  On 
its  banks  they  found  goitres  as  prevalent,  and  of 
larger  dimensions,  than  on  the  Alps.  As  they 
ascended,  the  villages  became  smaller  and  more 
thinly  scattered,  and  it  became  more  difficult  to 
obtain  refreshments.  Their  trouble  was  increased 
by  their  Tartar  attendants,  who,  we  presume, 
were  impressed  into  their  ser\*ice  by  order  of  go- 
vemment,  eagerly  embracing  everj'  opportunity 
to  desert.  Even  when  prohibited  from  carrying 
their  effects  on  shore,  they  chose  rather  to  aban- 
don all  than  to  remain.  Every  one  was  prohibit- 
ed, on  pain  of  death,  to  afford  them  shelter,  and 
every  one  afforded  it ;  messengers  were  sent  OFff 
in  every  direction,  but  none  were  overtaken.  In 
examining  the  packages  left  by  the  runaways, 
Gmelin  was  surprised  to  find  a  small  bag  of  earth 
forming  an  uniform  part  of  their  contents,  and 
learned,  an  inquiry,  that  it  was  a  portion  of  their 
native  earth,  the  taste  of  which  they  imagined, 
even  under  a  foreign  sky,  would  preserve  them 
from  all  the  evils  to  which  this  sad  change  might 
expose  them. 

As  the  expedition  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
-Itshora,  the  scene  became  still  more  gloomy. 
All  traces  of  villasres  or  resmlar  habitations  dia- 


GMELIX.  453 

appeared  ;  stones  do  longer  marked  the  distances 
from  verst  to  verst ;  the  mountains  were  bleak 
and  rugged,  and  a  thick  and  almost  continual  fog 
involved  the  air.  The  few  Tungouses  whom  they 
espied,  fled  with  the  utmost  speed,  and  hid  them- 
selves in  the  forests.  Meantime,  as  the  river  waa 
broad  and  deep,  no  difficulty  was  found  in  sailing 
up  to  Witim,  an  early  founded  but  small  village, 
of  not  more  than  twelve  houses.  Thev  ascended 
the  Witim,  to  see  the  beautiful  mines  of  talc 
situated  upon  its  banks.  Their  quality  is  so  su- 
perior, that  on  their  discover}-  the  working  of  all 
those  on  the  other  rivers  immediately  ceased. 
This  substance  is  used  instead  of  glass  through- 
out all  Siberia,  and  to  a  great  extent  in  European 
Russia.  It  is  said  to  be  often  as  clear,  and  is 
much  stronger,  resisting  even  cannon.  It  is  split 
bv  the  insertion  of  a  knife  into  thin  lamina,  the 
value  of  which  depends  on  their  size.  Those  of 
an  ell  in  length,  are  sold  at  from  one  to  two  rubles 
a-pound.  The  more  usual  size,  however,  is  a 
quarter  of  an  ell,  when  a  ruble  is  paid  for  about 
four  pounds.  The  party  then  continued  to  ascend 
the  Lena,  which  grew  always  broader,  and  be- 
came subject  to  storms,  which  caused  at  one 
time  apprehension  of  danger.  At  a  place  called 
Stolbi,  they  passed  for  twenty  miles  along  a  co^ 
lonnade  of  mountains,  presenting  the  varied  forms 
of  towers,  castles,  steeples,  and  pillars,  with  trees 


454  SIBERIA* 

interspersed,  which  produced  the  most  pictu- 
resque effect.  Early  in  September  they  arrived 
at  Yakutsk,  where  they  found  the  depth  of  winter 
already  fast  approaching.  On  the  19th  ice  began 
to  form  on  the  Lena,  and  by  the  28th  the  river 
was  entirely  covered,  and  could  be  passed  on 
sledges.  Ice  is  used  here  for  a  purpose  not 
thought  of  elsewhere,— to  warm  the  houses.  It 
is  found  the  most  effectual  mode  of  stopping  up 
every  chink  and  crevice,  and  is  applied  like  a 
double  glass  to  the  outside  of  the  windows.  If 
the  piece  does  not  exactly  fit,  they  have  only  to 
pour  on  water,  which  instantly  freezes  and  fills  it 
up. 

Yakutsk  is  a  small  town,  of  five  or  six  hundred 
wooden  houses,  an  ample  proportion  of  which 
consists  of  taverns.  The  soil  is  rich,  but  the  cli- 
mate unfits  it  for  the  culture  of  grain.  A  crop 
of  rye,  when  sown,  sometimes  ripens  and  some- 
times not.  What  indeed  can  be  expected,  where, 
in  the  end  of  June,  the  ground  is  still  frozen 
three  feet  deep  ?  Notwithstanding  this,  Yakutsk 
was  once  called  the  Peru  of  Siberia.  This  pomp- 
ous title  it  owed  to  the  abundance  of  sables,  and 
to  the  exemption  which  its  distance  procured  it 
from  the  exactions  and  restraints  of  government. 
Both  these  advantages  were  now  sensibly  dimi- 
nished. The  party  spent  the  winter,  as  it  were, 
imprisoned  at  Yakutsk,  the  season  rendering  it 


OMELIN.  4.55 

impossible  to  travel.  It  was  indeed  a  period  of 
darkness,  since  at  nine  in  the  morning  day  had 
scarcely  broken,  and  before  two  in  the  afternoon 
the  stars  were  visible.  The  natives  took  advan- 
tage of  this  gloom  to  enjoy  abundance  of  sleep, 
scarcely  rising,  unless  to  their  meals,  and  some- 
times, when  the  day  was  very  dark,  never  waking 
at  all.  Our  travellers  did  not  chuse  to  consign 
themselves  so  deeply  to  slumber;  and  though  the 
gloomy  season  did  not  admit  of  much  business, 
they  found  considerable  amusement  in  the  society 
of  themselves,  and  of  several  merchants  who  were 
on  their  way  to  Kamtchatka  j  as  well  as  in  drink- 
ing punch,  the  established  liquor  of  Yakutsk. 

The  natives  of  this  region,  who  bear  the  name 
of  Yakoutes,  do  not  materially  differ  in  appear- 
ance and  habits  from  the  other  inhabitants  of 
Siberia.  Less  active  in  the  chase  than  the  Tun- 
gouses,  and  not  following  the  sables  to  so  great  a 
distance,  they  do  not  obtain  their  furs  nearly  so 
fine.  They  care  little  for  bread,  which  is  almost 
beyond  their  reach,  and  place  their  chief  luxury 
in  onions,  garlic,  and  other  roots.  They  eat  also 
various  berries,  both  fresh  and  preserved,  which 
serve  besides  as  an  excuse  for  brandy  as  necessary 
to  counteract  their  bad  effects.  Superstition, 
among  these  people,  seems  to  subsist  on  a  greater 
scale  than  among  the  Tungouses.  Among  other 
Shamans,  held  in  high  reverence,  there  was   a 


456  SIBERIA. 

young  witch,  who  undertook  to  plunge  a  knife 
into  her  body  without  sustaining  any  injury.  The 
academicians  waited  upon  her  to  witness  the  exhi- 
bition. After  beginning  in  the  usual  manner,  by 
distorting  her  body,  imitating  the  cries  of  diffe- 
rent animals,  and  holding  long  discourse  with  un- 
seen demons,  she  proceeded  to  the  operation. 
She  thrust  the  knife  through  her  clothes,  in  a 
manner  which  altogether  satisfied  the  believing 
Yakoutes ;  but  she  clearly  discerned  the  full  per- 
suasion of  the  strangers,  that  her  person  was  en- 
tirely untouched.  She  therefore  appointed  ano- 
ther rendezvous,  when  they  saw  her  really  thrust 
the  knife  into  her  body,  cut  out  a  portion  of  the 
omentum,  roast  it  on  the  coals,  and  eat  it.  Struck, 
however,  with  consternation  at  her  own  wound, 
she  frankly  confessed,  that  this  was  the  first  time 
she  had  ever  come  to  such  an  extremity,  which 
"was  quite  superfluous  with  reference  to  the  Ya- 
koutes ;  but  that,  mortified  at  her  failure  in  de- 
ceiving them,  she  had  summoned  courage  to  take 
this  step.  She  had  trusted,  moreover,  to  a  doc- 
trine held  by  many  learned  Shamans,  that  by 
eating  a  portion  of  her  own  fat,  she  would  obviate 
any  damage  it  might  occasion.  Finding  this 
charm  inefficacious,  she  put  herself  under  their 
care  ;  and  having  luckily  struck  no  mortal  part, 
a  cure  was  in  due  time  effected. 


PALLAS.  457 

Circumstances,  into  the  detail  of  which  we 
shall  not  enter,  prevented  Gmelin  from  proceed- 
ing farther  j  and  the  remainder  of  his  journey 
consisted  chiefly  in  retracing  his  steps  to  i>t 
Petersburg. 

A  JOURNEY  not  less  conducive  to  the  interests 
of  science  was  undertaken  in  I7G9  by  the  learned 
and  laborious  Professor  Pallas,  under  the  patron- 
age of  the  Academy  of  Sciences.  His  travels  in 
the  Taurida  and  Caucasus  have  repeatedly  ap- 
peared in  an  English  dress ;  but  the  case  is  other- 
wise with  his  journey  through  Northern  Asia, 
which  is  yet  of  at  least  equal  interest.  The  va- 
riety and  minuteness  of  the  topographical  and 
statistical  details  of  which  this  learned  author 
composes  his  narrative,  render  it  not  very  easily 
susceptible  of  a  regular  analysis  j  and  we  must 
be  content  to  catch,  though  in  a  somewhat  un- 
connected manner,  the  most  important  of  the 
particulars  communicated  in  the  course  of  it. 

The  journeys  performed  by  M.  Pallas  in  I769 
and  1770  embrace  the  line  of  the  Ourals  and  the 
European  frontier.  It  was  only  in  I77I  that  he 
undertook  to  penetrate  into  the  extremities  of 
Siberia,  to  supply  the  deficiencies  of  Gmelin,  and 
observe  the  changes  that  have  occurred  since  the 
time  of  that  traveller;  as  also  to  survey  the 
southern  provinces,  the  limits  of  which  had  bcea 


458  SIBERIA. 

recently  fixed,  and  which  were  beginning  to  be 
settled  and  peopled.  He  begins  with  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  province  of  Isetsk,  extending  along 
the  river  Iset,  which  is  about  two  hundred  miles 
in  length,  and  of  equal  breadth,  and  consists  of  a 
rich  black  soil,  yielding  the  very  best  grain  and  pas- 
ture ;  yet  it  does  not  contain  above  .57,391  inhabi- 
tants. This  thin  population  he  ascribes  partly  to 
the  great  quantity  of  ground  monopolized  by  the 
Cossacks,  and  partly  to  that  consumed  by  the 
Baschkirs  in  the  breeding  of  horses.  This  people 
have  horses  here  in  the  greatest  numbers  and  per- 
fection, at  which  Pallas  was  astonished,  when  he 
saw  the  manner  in  which  they  were  bred.  The  pas- 
sion of  theTartarsfor  koumiss,  or  fermented  mares' 
milk,  induces  them  to  defraud  the  foals  to  a  great 
extent  of  that  which  they  ought  to  receive  from 
their  mother;  and  as  they  make  no  provision 
for  winter  food,  the  poor  animals  are  often  at  that 
season  left  entirely  destitute.  They  thrive,  how- 
ever, in  spite  of  all,  and  many  individuals  possess- 
ed from  two  to  three  thousand  horses,  most  of 
them  from  three  to  four  hundred.  They  raised 
only  so  much  oats  and  barley  as  was  necessary  to 
eke  out  their  winter  food,  when  the  milk  of  their 
cattle  failed. 

Pallas,  in  penetrating  though  Siberia,  did  not 
take  the  high-road  by  the  great  cities  of  Tobolsk, 
Tomsk,  and  Yeniseisk.     His  object  being  natural 


TALLAS,  4,59 

history  and  the  less  explored  parts,  he  proceeded 
along  the  great  southern  steppe,  parallel  to  the 
Altai,  and  diversified  by  a  chain  of  salt  and  bitter 
lakes.  He  reached  the  Tobol  at  the  fortress  of 
Zuerinogolosskaia,  whence  he  intended  to  have 
traversed  the  fortified  Hne  of  the  Ischim  to  Omsk  ; 
but  he  was  assured  that  the  redoubts  which  de- 
fended it  were  in  a  very  ruinous  state,  and  quite 
unequal  to  defend  the  travellers  from  the  frequent 
inroads  of  the  Kirghises.  He  was  obliged  to  take 
a  circuitous  route,  descending  the  Tobol,  and  as- 
cending the  Irtysch.  In  considering  the  saline 
character  of  all  the  waters  in  this  vast  southern 
steppe,  which  extends  to  the  Obi,  Pallas  can  trace 
it  only  to  the  chain  of  mountains  extending  from 
the  Oural  through  the  land  of  the  Kirghises,  and 
joining  itself  to  the  Altai.  In  descending  the 
Tobol,  near  its  junction  with  the  Ouk,  he  re- 
marked an  extensive  distillery  formed  by  Count 
Schouvalof,  which  had  given  rise  to  a  village  of 
three  hundred  houses.  The  process  was  very  ill 
managed ;  the  body  of  the  still  and  the  tubes 
were  so  little  tight,  and  so  much  steam  con- 
sequently escaped,  that  one  could  not  remain 
near  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour  without  getting 
drunk,  and  a  flame  was  produced  on  the  ap- 
proach of  a  lighted  candle.  Hence  the  spirit, 
though  twice  distilled,  had  not  the  same  strength 
as  one  good  distillation  would  have  given  it ;  and 


460  SIBERIA. 

government,  he  thinks,  ought  to  Interfere  in 
order  to  prevent  such  a  waste  of  grain.  In  a  fine 
country  on  the  banks  of  the  Korrassoun  he  saw 
many  bones  of  elephants,  some  of  very  great  size. 
Here  too  were  a  great  number  of  open  tombs,  in 
which  gold  and  silver  ornaments  had  once  been 
found ;  but  every  one  had  now  been  ransacked. 
This  object  of  cupidity  was  said  to  have  been  the 
source  whence  the  territory  was  first  peopled  ; 
and  however  the  emigrants  might  have  failed 
in  the  search,  its  superb  pastures,  and  lakes 
abounding  with  fish,  must  have  amply  indemni- 
fied them. 

Pallas  ascended  the  Irtysch  to  Omsk,  situated 
at  its  junction  with  the  Om.  This  city  had  just 
been  transported  to  a  new  position,  the  fortifica- 
tions of  which  were  scarcely  completed  ;  and  a 
handsome  church  and  other  public  buildings  were 
erected.  He  met  a  very  inhospitable  reception 
from  the  governor,  who  would  scarcely  give  him 
a  passport.  However  he  now  set  out  to  continue 
his  journey  down  the  Irtysch.  He  passed  along 
a  great  number  of  small  saline  lakes,  some  of 
which  were  completely  saturated,  and  the  bottom 
covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  the  most  pure  and 
beautiful  marine  salt.  Several,  at  a  little  distance, 
appeared  completely  white  ;  yet  Pallas  contra- 
dicts the  report  as  to  any  of  them  being  co- 
vered with  a  crust  of  salt  like  ice.      This,  he 


PALLAS.  iSl 

says,  is  quite  impossible  in  a  lake  at  all  agitated 
by  the  wind ;  and  indeed  the  smallest  flakes  which 
he  saw  went  immediately  to  the  bottom.  The 
neighbourhood  of  Koriakoffshoi,  the  principal 
military  post  on  the  line  of  the  Irtysch,  is  distin- 
guished not  only  by  these  lakes,  but  by  a  vast 
number  of  bones  belonging  to  large  animals,  par- 
ticularly to  a  buffalo  of  greater  dimensions  than 
is  now  found  in  any  part  of  Asia.  The  country 
here  presented  a  dreadful  spectacle,  being  covered 
with  the  dead  carcases  of  horses,  which  had  died 
of  a  pestilential  disease  that  had  just  been  raging, 
and  whose  bodies  the  government  took  no  pains 
to  remove.  He  came  to  Semipalatnoi,  or  the 
Seven  Palaces,  ruins  already  described  by  Gme- 
lin.  They  seem  unworthy  of  their  title,  and 
are  described  as  ill  built,  and  evidently  of  Bu- 
charian  origin.  Near  this  is  the  rendezvous 
of  the  trade  carried  on  with  the  Asiatic  mer- 
chants. Pallas  saw  a  number  from  Taschkent 
and  Little  Bucharia,  who  brought  bad  cotton 
goods,  and  appeared  less  civilized  than  those 
of  Great  Bucharia.  The  most  profitable  trade  is 
carried  on  with  the  Kirghises,  who  give  their 
horses  and  cattle  at  a  very  cheap  rate,  for  mere 
toys  and  trifles. 

Pallas  now  proceeded  by  the  rivulets  of  Schoul- 
ba  and  Ouba,  along  the  foot  of  the  Altai,  that 
vast  and  rich  chain  which  rises  near  the  east  of 


4^62  SIBERIA. 

the  Caspian,  and  under  A'arious  names  traverses 
first  the  whole  breadth  of  Asia,  then  turning  to 
the  north  runs  parallel  to  the  eastern  shore  of 
the  continent,  till  it  terminates  at  Behring's  Straits. 
He  considers  it  as  the  most  considerable  chain  on 
the  globe  ;  and  in  its  whole  extent  along  the  fron- 
tiers of  Siberia  it  is  eminently  distinguished  by 
metalliferous  qualities.  Our  traveller  was  struck 
with  the  astonishing  number  of  ancient  works 
carried  on  by  the  unknown  people  who  once  in- 
habited these  tracts.  There  is  not  a  productive 
spot  throughout  the  Altai  where  their  traces  may 
not  be  found.  Hence  were  doubtless  derived 
those  numerous  metallic  ornaments  and  utensils 
buried  in  the  tombs  on  the  Irtysch.  Descending 
that  river,  our  traveller  had  an  opportunity  of 
surveying  the  ruins  of  Ablaikit,  built  by  Ablai, 
a  Kalmuc  Prince.  It  bears  marks  of  having  pos- 
sessed all  the  magnificence  which  could  be  given 
to  it  by  an  uncivilized  people.  The  author  count- 
ed forty-five  idols,  representing  all  that  is  most 
sacred  among  the  Bourkans  and  the  Kalmucs. 
Half  of  the  figures  were  female ;  some  of  them 
■were  hideous,  with  inflamed  features  and  counte- 
nances ;  others  were  monstrous,  with  ten  faces 
and  seven  arms.  They  were  variously  formed,  of 
copper,  stone,  and  potter's  earth.  Fragments  of 
writing  were  still  found,  but  not  in  the  same  vast 
abundance  as  in  the  time  of  Gmelin.     The  edi- 


JALLAS.  463 

fice  had  been  variously  injured  by  the  Russians 
and  the  Kirghises ;  and  a  squadron  of  cavalry, 
encamped  near  it,  was  just  completing  its  destruc- 
tion. 

Mr  Pallas  now  left  the  Irtysch,  and  after  pass- 
ing along  the  Altai,  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
came  to  Kolivan,  the  earliest  forge  established  in 
this  part  of  Siberia.  It  was  originally  worked  as 
a  copper  mine  by  an  individual  of  the  name  of 
Denudoff;  but  the  crown  having  learned  that 
gold  and  silver  were  also  produced,  took  full  pos- 
session of  it.  It  is  now  in  a  very  languishing 
state,  perhaps  from  the  failure  of  wood,  and  is 
much  surpassed  by  other  forges  in  this  district. 
The  great  scene  of  mining  operations  is  now  the 
Schlangenberg,  or  Serpent  Mountain,  so  called 
from  the  multitude  of  that  description  of  animals 
which  are  found  there.  This  mountain  is  situat- 
ed about  sixty  miles  from  the  Irtysch,  and  a  hun- 
dred from  the  Obi ;  and  appears  from  the  course  of 
the  rivers  on  both  sides  to  tower  above  all  the 
rest  of  the  Altai.  It  may  be  considered  as  an 
enormous  mineral  mass ;  whenever  its  covering 
of  slate  rock  is  taken  off,  all  the  substances  be- 
neath are  found  to  yield  gold,  silver,  copper,  and 
plumbago.  Zinc,  arsenic,  and  sulphur,  are  also 
abundant.  Since  1746,  when  this  great  source  of 
wealth  was  first  discovered,  the  openings  made 

into  the  mountain  are  almost  innumerable,  being 

47 


464k  SIBERIA. 

guided  in  several  instances  by  the  example  set 
by  the  Tchouds,  or  ancient  inhabitants,  some  of 
whose  workings  reached  sixty  feet  deep.  To 
give  an  idea  of  the  richness  of  the  Schlangenberg, 
it  is  stated,  between  I749  and  1771,  to  have 
produced  318  poods,  or  (at  36  pounds  to  each 
pood)  12,348  pounds  of  gold,  and  more  than 
324.,000  pounds  of  silver.  It  still  yields  annually 
36,000,000  pounds  of  mineral ;  and  the  veins  al- 
ready discovered  would  be  sufficient  to  supply  the 
same  quantity  for  twenty  years  to  come. 

From  the  Schlangenberg  Pallas  proceeded 
north  to  Barnaoul  on  the  Obi.  If  Schlangenberg 
be  distinguished  for  the  quantity  of  mineral  sub- 
stances, Barnaoul  is  not  less  so  for  the  forges  in 
which  that  substance  is  fused  and  refined.  The 
minerals,  with  a  few  exceptions,  are  of  difficult 
fusion,  which  renders  the  labour  very  extensive, 
and  consumes  an  immense  quantity  of  wood. 
Pallas  now  ascended  the  Obi  to  Tomsk.  He 
found  the  country  on  the  right,  between  the  Obi 
and  the  Tomm,  distinguished  by  high  fertility, 
but  unfortunately  little  inhabited,  covered  with 
forests  of  birch,  and  laid  waste  by  hosts  of 
field-mice.  Tomsk  is  a  large  city,  and  a  great 
emporium  of  the  trade  of  Siberia.  The  ground 
on  which  it  stands  is  very  unequal,  and  there 
never  was  any  thing  so  irregular  as  the  line  of  its 
streets.     They  are  narrow,  winding,  and  running 


PALLAS.  465 

into  each  other ;  and  the  houses  do  not  make 
the  least  attempt  at  a  uniform  line.  A  great 
part  of  the  town  had  been  consumed  by  fire,  and 
never  rebuilt ;  so  that  the  ruins,  and  the  cellars 
laid  open,  presented  a  shocking  spectacle.  Pre- 
valent as  drunkenness  is  in  Siberia,  Pallas 
never  saw  a  town  where  it  was  so  general  as  at 
Tomsk  ;  and  it  leads,  as  elsewhere,  to  other  spe- 
cies of  debauchery,  the  diseases  consequent  on 
which  had  made  dreadful  havock  here,  as  in  the 
other  towns  of  this  region.  Tomsk  is  the  centre 
of  the  trade  in  brandy,  or  rather  whisky,  which 
is  brought  thither  from  the  distilleries  on  the 
Tobol  and  the  Iset,  and  thence  distributed 
through  the  countries  to  the  eastward. 

From  Tomsk  nothing  remarkable  occurred  till 
our  traveller  came  to  Knasnoiarsk.  This  town 
was  not  found  at  all  changed  from  what  it  had 
been  in  the  time  of  Gmelin.  It  had  not  increas- 
ed, notwithstanding  the  fertility  of  the  country 
round,  and  its  favourable  situation  for  trade.  In- 
deed the  vices  of  indolence  and  drunkenness  ap- 
peared so  rooted  in  the  character  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, as  to  give  little  hope  of  its  prosperity.  The 
foundation  of  these  vices  appeared  to  be  the  ex- 
cessive cheapness  of  provisions.  During  his  stay, 
oatmeal  was  sold  from  a  halfpenny  to  three  far- 
things a-peck,  and  had  never  been  known  to  rise 
above  three  halfpence  ;  an  ox  brought  five  shil- 

VOL.  III.  o  g 


466  SIBERIA. 

lings  ;  a  cow  three  ;  and  an  excellent  horse  was 
considered  dear  at  ten  shillings.  This  cheapness 
seems  to  arise  partly  from  the  want  of  a  market, 
partly  from  the  excessive  luxuriance  of  the  soil. 
It  is  said  to  be  such,  that  manure  is  not  only 
unnecessary,  but  destroys  the  grain.  The  climate 
is  unfavourable  for  wheat ;  but  oats,  barley,  and 
rye,  produce  most  luxuriant  crops.  A  large  quan- 
tity of  grain  is  exported  to  all  the  northern  parts 
of  Siberia. 

M.  Pallas  travelled  post  from  Krasnoiarsk  to 
Irkoutsk,  and  spent  only  a  few  days  in  that  city. 
He  had  a  favourable  passage  across  the  Baikal, 
and  was  tracked  up  the  Selinga,  though  with 
some  difficulty,  on  account  of  the  floating  ice. 
At  Selinginsk  he  found  a  very  sensible  change  of 
climate.  All  the  heights  exposed  to  the  south 
were  cleared  of  snow,  and  the  birds,  which,  in 
summer,  had  sought  a  warmer  climate,  were  gra- 
dually making  their  appearance.  Our  traveller 
ascended  the  Selinga  to  Kiachta,  the  great  scene 
of  Chinese  trade.  It  is  situated  in  an  elevated 
plain,  surrounded  by  high,  rocky,  and  wooded 
mountains.  One  of  these,  called  the  Eagle 
Mountain,  is  so  near,  that  it  overlooks  both  the 
Russian  and  Chinese  towns ;  on  which  account 
the  latter  nation  have  had  the  art  to  obtain  the 
cession  of  it.  They  have  also  secured  for  them- 
selves a  district  abounding  in  vegetables,  water. 


PALLAS.  467 

and  fish  ;  while  on  the  Russian  side  there  is  no- 
thing but  sand  and  rock,  and  they  cannot  get  a 
drop  of  good  water  for  their  tea  unless  by  suffer- 
ance of  their  rivals.  Every  great  commercial 
house  in  the  empire  has  an  agent  at  Kiachta  ;  so 
that  the  society  is  pretty  numerous,  and  the  tone 
of  manners  more  polished  and  sociable  than  in 
the  other  cities  of  Siberia.  It  would  be  very 
agreeable  were  it  not  for  the  endless  urgency  of 
the  merchants  to  their  guests  to  drink  tea  ;  their 
hospitality  seeming  to  centre  wholly  in  causing 
them  to  swallow  the  most  enormous  quantities  of 
this  liquid. 

About  a  stone-cast  from  the  wall  of  Kiachta  is 
that  of  the  Chinese  city  of  Maimatshin.  This 
place  contains  about  two  hundred  houses  enclosed 
with  a  wooden  wall.  The  streets  are  straight, 
pretty  broad,  and  kept  very  clean.  The  houses 
occupy  a  large  space,  having  each  a  court-yard 
enclosed  from  the  street.  They  are  only  one  story 
high,  built  of  timber  and  spars,  plastered  and 
painted  white.  The  window-frames  are  large, 
but  chiefly  filled  up  with  paper,  only  a  pane  or 
two  of  glass  being  afforded  to  admit  the  light. 
The  roof  is  projecting,  and  each  house  is  decora- 
ted with  a  flag.  There  are  two  pagodas,  the  or- 
naments of  which  are  very  splendid,  and  each 
house  contains  a  recess  covered  with  a  silk  cur- 
tain, in  which  are  the  penates,  formed  of  finely 


468  SIBERIA. 

painted  paper.  The  Chinese  merchants  come  to 
Maimatshin  merely  as  travellers,  and  there  are 
always  at  least  two  in  company,  one  of  whom  re- 
mains while  the  other  goes  to  China.  They  do 
not  bring  their  families,  no  female  being  allowed 
to  reside  in  the  place ;  a  privation  for  which  the 
ladies  of  Kiachta  are  said  to  be  at  great  pains  to 
console  them,  more  to  their  own  profit  than  credit. 
The  trade  between  the  two  nations  is  carried 
on  by  the  Chinese  merchant  coming  to  Kiachta, 
taking  a  view  of  the  Russian  merchandise,  fixing 
on  what  he  wishes,  and  stipulating  what  he  is  to 
give  in  return.  The  Russian  then  accompanies 
him  to  Maimatshin,  and  examines  if  the  articles 
correspond  exactly  to  the  description  which  he 
had  given.  The  Chinese  take  from  the  Russians 
skins,  furs,  cloths  of  various  colours  and  qualities, 
a  number  of  coarse  manufactures,  glass,  and  cat- 
tle ;  in  return  for  which  they  give  silk  and  cot- 
ton, both  raw  and  m.anufactured,  tea,  tobacco, 
rhubarb,  porcelain,  and  a  variety  of  little  trinkets 
and  pieces  of  furniture.  In  bargaining,  the  ad- 
vantage is  said  to  be  almost  always  on  the  side  of 
the  close,  cautious,  and  artful  Chinese,  over  the 
careless  and  babbling  Russian.  The  trade,  how- 
ever, is  of  great  benefit  to  the  Russian  empire,  as 
it  disposes  of  a  large  portion  of  surplus  produce, 
which  could  with  difficulty  admit  of  transporta- 
tion.     It  yields  also  a  considerable  revenue  to 


PALLAS.  4G9 

the  government,  which  imposes  very  heavy  duties 
both  on  the  exports  and  imports.  The  annual 
value  of  articles  exchanged  on  each  side  is  stated 
at  between  L.  200,000  and  L.  300,000. 

Pallas  now  performed  a  journey  through  part 
of  Daouria,  or  Russian  Mongolia,  watered  by  the 
rivers  Onon  and  Ingoda.  This  territory  is  inha- 
bited by  a  race  of  Tungouses,  much  resembling 
the  Mongols  in  their  habits  and  external  appear- 
ance. Of  all  the  nations  who  inhabit  the  vast 
plains  of  the  empire  of  Russia,  these  are  the  brav- 
est, the  most  skilful  in  managing  a  horse,  and  in 
drawing  the  bow.  In  case  of  a  limitary  war  they 
would  form  excellent  light  troops  to  oppose  to 
the  Mongols.  They  have  been  much  reduced 
by  contests  with  that  people,  who  have  the  ad- 
vantage in  numbers ;  while  the  huntings  by  which 
they  subsist,  have  been  greatly  injured  by  the  in- 
crease of  culture  and  population.  They  have 
Toions  or  princes,  who  collect  the  tribute  from 
their  subjects,  and  pay  it  to  the  Russian  treasury. 
Sometimes,  when  ruined,  the  Tungouses  come 
and  hire  themselves  to  work  in  agriculture  or  the 
mines,  when  they  make  good  labourers.  Pallas 
saw  several  exhibitions  of  their  Shamans,  particu- 
larly of  the  female  sex,  similar  to  those  described 
by  Gmelin  ;  and  observes  in  general,  that  super- 
stition, throughout  all  Siberia,  is  radically  one  and 
the  sgme. 


470  SIBERIA. 

Our  traveller  had  here  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving the  Dshiggetei  or  wild  horse,  combining 
the  qualities  of  that  animal  with  those  of  the  ass. 
Messerschmidt,  by  whom  it  was  first  observed, 
calls  it  the  prolific  mule.  It  differs  from  the  mule, 
however,  in  many  respects,  having  a  light  and 
slender  form,  and  a  superb  covering  of  hair.  Its 
mane  and  tail,  indeed,  resemble  those  of  the 
ass,  and  its  back  is  long  and  square.  It  is  per- 
haps the  swiftest  animal  in  nature.  The  horse, 
in  this  respect,  can  bear  no  comparison,  and  it 
can  be  taken  only  by  stratagem  and  ambuscade. 
The  dshiggetei  would,  therefore,  be  extremely 
serviceable,  could  it  be  tamed  by  any  process; 
but  every  attempt  of  this  kind  has  hitherto  fail- 
ed, even  when  employed  upon  foals  taken  very 
young.  Pallas  saw  also  the  Argali,  or  wild  sheep, 
which  seems  to  partake  of  the  qualities  of  the 
goat,  being  covered  with  hair  unless  in  winter, 
when  a  little  wool  is  formed  ;  and  climbing  rocks 
with  the  utmost  agility.  It  is  also  excessively 
swift;  but  its  young,  when  taken  sufficiently 
early,  are  capable  of  being  tamed. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Onon  was  found  a  con- 
siderable saline  lake  called  Zagan  Noor.  Its  bed 
consists  of  a  black  and  tenacious  clay,  and  on  the 
surface  floats  a  bitter  salt,  white  as  snow.  All 
the  surrounding  plain  consists  of  sand,  detached 
probably  from  that  great  desert  which  extends 


SCH  ANGINA  471 

between  Russia  and  China,  through  the  whole 
length  of  Western  Tartaiy. 

In  1786  P.  IwANowiTCH  ScHANGiN  was  scnt  by 
the  Russian  government  to  explore  the  loftiest 
regions  of  the  Altai,  situated  between  the  Irtysch 
and  the  Katunia.  The  object  was  partly  scien- 
tific, and  partly  to  observe  if  there  were  any  rocks 
of  such  beauty  and  value  as  might  serve  for  the 
ornament  of  the  imperial  palace.  Schangin  spent 
the  whole  summer  in  exploring  the  banks  of  the 
Tscharysch,  which  takes  its  rise  in  these  lofty 
regions,  as  well  as  of  the  numerous  rivulets  which 
concur  in  forming  its  stream.  The  task  was  at- 
tended with  great  labour  and  difficulty  in  regions 
where  was  neither  path  nor  habitation,  and  where 
the  track  of  wild  beasts  was  often  their  best  guide 
to  the  fords  over  the  rivers.  The  wooded  dis- 
tricts also  swarmed  with  serpents,  of  which  they 
often  found  in  the  morning  several  among  their 
bed-clothes,  though  they  appear  to  have  been 
harmless,  as  none  of  the  escort  were  bitten. 
Amid  all  these  obstacles,  our  author  complet- 
ed his  undertaking,  and  laid  before  the  Rus- 
sian government  a  complete  mineral  map  of  this 
remarkable  district.  The  mountains  on  the  right 
of  the  river,  which  were  the  highest,  and  covered 
vpith  perpetual  snow,  consisted  of  granite ;  but 
those  on  the  left  were  composed  of  porphyr}'. 


472  •  SIBERIA. 

jasper,  and  serpentine,  of  which  rocks  they  pre- 
sented many  beautiful  varieties.  They  contain- 
ed also  rocks  of  a  blue  marble,  and  very  large 
ultra-marine  crystals. 

Schangin  indulges  in  few  observations  distinct 
from  the  immediate  object  of  his  mission.  He 
gives,  however,  some  account  of  the  few  Tartars 
who  inhabit  these  wild  and  rugged  regions.  They 
are  of  middle  stature,  and  not  ugly;  they  have 
indeed  the  flat  face  of  the  Kalmucs,  but  with 
much  better  nose  and  eyes.  It  is  supposed  they 
may  be  a  mixture  of  that  people  with  the  proper 
Tartar  or  Turkish  breed  race,  who  are  extremely 
handsome.  Some  of  the  young  females  may  dis- 
pute the  palm  even  with  the  Russian  beauties. 
Those  advanced  in  years  appeared  to  our  author 
to  form  the  ugliest  sight  he  had  ever  beheld; 
which  he  imputes  to  their  slovenly  habits  and 
perpetual  drinking.  The  only  occupations  of 
these  Tartars  are  hunting  and  breeding  of  horses. 
They  have  not  the  least  idea  of  agriculture  ;  and 
when  offered  bread,  would  scarcely  taste  it.  They 
are  a  people  of  very  few  words,  and  appear  nei- 
ther to  salute  each  other  at  meeting,  nor  to  bid 
adieu  at  parting.  They  acknowledge  a  supreme 
being  under  the  name  of  Kutai  j  but  their  chief 
worship  is  bestowed  upon  a  piece  of  wood  cut 
into  the  rude  form  of  a  head,  which  they  place 
in  the  most  conspicuous  place  of  the  hot,  and  call 


SCHANGIN.  473 

Ula-taif  bedewing  it  occasionally  with  their  fi- 
vourite  koumiss.  Their  huts  consist  merely  of 
spars  placed  conically,  and  covered  with  felt  or 
skins.  The  article  which  they  are  most  anxious 
to  purchase  from  the  Russians  is  that  of  guns, 
for  one  of  which  they  will  give  a  horse  worth 
fifteen  rubles. 

Schangin  penetrated  to  the  highest  of  the 
streams  which  form  the  Tscharysch,  close  to 
Vv^hose  sources  were  others  descending  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  mountains,  and  forming  the 
Katunia  and  the  Buchturna,  which  falls  into  the 
Irtysch.  Here  they  touched  the  extreme  limits 
of  the  Russian  frontier;  and  one  of  the  mission 
having  gone  beyond  the  rest  to  fish  in  one  of  the 
streams,  came  upon  a  Chinese  patrole  of  35  men. 
They  put  many  questions  to  him,  pointing  parti- 
cularly to  Schangin*s  tent,  which  was  set  up  on  a 
height  at  some  distance ;  but  the  Russian  know- 
ing nothing  of  their  speech,  could  give  no  reply. 
They  then  made  a  jeering  comparison  between 
his  torn  clothes  and  the  comfortable  silk  dress 
which  they  themselves  wore.  At  length  the  chief 
held  out  his  tobacco  pipe,  when  the  Russian,  ac- 
tuated by  an  old  antipathy  of  his  nation  to  that 
substance,  instead  of  accepting  it,  drew  out  a 
cross  and  held  it  before  him  ;  which  caused  a 
loud  laugh  from  the  opposite  party.  They  then 
proceeded  towards  the  tent ;   but  on  their  ap- 


474  SIBERIA. 

proach,  the  Cossacks  set  up  a  loud  cry  Kitaizi 
Kitaiziy  at  which  the  Chinese  took  fright,  and 
ran  away,  to  the  great  regret  of  our  author,  who 
wished  to  have  held  some  conference  with  these 
people. 

The  zeal  of  the  Russian  government  for  the 
improvement  of  its  vast  dominions,  continued 
still  unabated.  In  1790  a  new  expedition  was 
fitted  out  to  examine  whether  rhubarb  and  other 
plants,  now  produced  in  perfection  only  upon  the 
Chinese  and  Tartar  frontier  of  Siberia,  could  not 
be  advantageously  transplanted  into  some  part 
of  the  Russian  territory.  Sievers  has  given  a 
lively  narrative  of  this  journey.  They  travelled 
at  full  speed  from  Moscow  to  Irkutsk,  a  distance 
of  nearly  4000  miles,  between  the  13th  February 
and  the  26th  April.  The  length  of  this  period  is 
ascribed  to  the  bad  roads,  occasioned  by  the 
melted  snow  ;  for  the  journey  has  been  known 
to  be  performed  in  less  than  a  month. 

Irkutsk  is,  next  to  Tobolsk,  the  largest  city  in 
Siberia,  and  contains  20,000  souls.  It  had  been 
considerably  improved  in  the  course  of  the  last 
twenty  years.  Besides  several  seminaries  of  edu- 
cation, it  contained  a  small  library  and  collection 
of  natural  history.  It  even  supported  a  theatre, 
where  were  exhibited  pieces  of  native  production, 
ihat  were  pretty  tolerable.   The  newest  literature 


SIEVERS.  475 

and  music  of  Europe  were  transported  thither  by 
the  military  officers,  who  were  continually  going 
and  returning. 

Sievers  now  proceeded  to  sail  across  the  Baikal. 
He  was  deeply  struck  with  the  appearance  of  the 
Angara,  issuing  out  as  by  an  immense  mountain 
gate,  four  or  five  miles  broad,  and  formed  by  the 
most  stupendous  walls  of  rock.  He  observes,  that 
all  the  places  round  this  sea  are  subject  to  slight 
earthquakes,  and  thinks  it  probable  that  its  own 
deep  bed  must  have  been  formed  by  some  great 
convulsion  of  this  nature.  Its  depth  is  such  that, 
in  the  middle,  a  line  of  4iO0  fathoms  has  been  let 
down  without  finding  the  bottom.  Its  water  is 
the  purest  in  the  world,  containing  only  a  very 
small  portion  of  calcareous  earth,  and  so  clear, 
that,  at  the  depth  of  four  fathoms,  the  smallest 
stones  may  be  seen.  The  author  had  a  delight- 
ful sail  across  it  in  a  fine  moonlight  night.  The 
appearance  of  the  banks  was  continually  changing, 
and  presented  successively  deep  meadows,  im- 
mensely high  walls  of  rock  dipping  into  the  water, 
high  granite  peaks,  and  smooth  summits  clothed 
with  pines  and  verdure.  As  morning  dawned, 
he  found  himself  in  the  bay  in  which  is  situated 
the  Possolskoi  monastery,  the  usual  rendezvous 
of  the  Russian  embassies.  The  country  was  now 
peopled  by  a  mixture  of  Russians  and  Mongols ; 


476  SIBERIA. 

after  some  days  spent  in  observing  whom,  he 
sailed  up  the  Yenisei  to  Kiachta. 

The  observations   of  our  author  on  Kiachta 
add  nothing  to  the  information  of  Pallas ;  but  he 
formed  an  acquaintance  with  the  Bandida-Lama, 
the  great  head,  as  to  this  part  of  Asia,  of  the  re- 
ligion of  Boodh.     He  was  allowed  to  enter  the 
great  temple,  where  he  found  about  a  hundred 
priests,  clothed  in  red,  and  seated  in  successive 
rows.     For  the  high  priest  there  was  erected  a 
lofty  and   splendid  throne,    which  he  ascended 
only  upon  particular  occasions,  and  behind  which 
was  the  altar,  on  which  were  placed  the  images 
of  the  great  gods,  while  those  of  inferior  rank 
were  arranged  in  rows  along  the  walls.     Before 
these  august  deities  were  placed  brazen  bowls 
with  rice,  brandy,  and  other  victuals  ;  and  some- 
times, on  particular  occasions,  they  were  served 
with  a  hen,  or  even  a  sheep  dressed  whole.     He 
confirms  fully  the  report  of  Turner  as  to  the  im- 
mense extent  of  the  system  of  noise  on  which 
these   devout   persons    proceed.      Bells,    kettle- 
drums, trumpets  eight  feet  long,  huge  sea-conchs, 
and  other  instruments,  unite  in  producing  a  sound 
truly  thundering  and  tremendous.     Their  wor- 
ship  is   performed    by    putting    both    hands   to 
their  breast,  and  then  falling  flat  on  their  faces. 
Their  prayers  are  long,  and  were  said  to  be  put 
u'p  fox  the  welfare  of  all  mankind,  and  of  all  the 


SIEVERS.  4.77 

unfortunate,  without  difference  of  religion.  The 
Lama  gave  our  author  an  entertainment,  at  which 
were  presented  first  tea,  then  milk-brandy,  then  a 
lamb  newly  killed  and  roasted  on  a  wooden  spit, 
then  sour  milk,  and  last  of  all  tea  again.  He  re- 
sided in  a  house  built  of  wood  in  the  Russian 
manner,  surrounded  by  a  number  of  felt  tents  to 
be  used  upon  occasion. 

Sievers  now  proceeded  to  fulfil  the  main  object 
of  his  mission,  by  ascending  the  great  ridge  of  the 
Yablonoy  mountains,  a  continuation  of  the  Altai, 
which  rises  at  a  little  distance  to  the  east  and 
south.  He  found  the  country  and  people  be- 
coming gradually  ruder.  Even  the  Russians  had 
betaken  themselves,  in  a  great  measure,  to  a  no- 
madic life,  though  the  example  of  some  Polish 
colonies  had  led  them,  and  even  the  Mongols,  to 
appreciate,  in  some  small  degree,  the  benefits  of 
agriculture.  At  a  village  of  Korokofskoi,  he 
found  himself  at  the  farthest  point  to  which  wag- 
gons could  travel,  and  was  obliged  to  place  all 
his  baggage  upon  pack-horses,  and  lay  in  a  stock 
of  rye  biscuit,  the  only  provision  which  could  be 
conveniently  carried  over  these  wilds.  For  two 
or  three  days,  however,  they  still  found  inhabited 
spots,  where  they  could  rest  for  the  night ;  but 
at  length,  in  passing  some  Mongol  huts,  Sievers 
was  warned,  that  he  must  bid  adieu  for  some 
months  to  all  human  habitation.     When  night 


478  "  SIBERIA. 

overtook  them,  his  companions  cut  down  branches 
of  trees,  and  in  half  an  hour  built  four  houses 
sufficient  to  keep  out  the  wind  and  rain,  and  to 
last  for  two  or  three  years.  Such  is  the  system 
of  all  the  hunters  over  these  mountains  ;  and  the 
author,  anticipating  in  his  correspondent  an  ob- 
jection to  this  waste  of  wood,  assures  him,  that  in 
this  branch  of  the  Yablonoy  alone,  there  is  as 
much  timber  as  in  all  Germany.  They  caught 
here  a  great  quantity  of  fish  by  a  very  simple 
process.  Three  men  went  by  night  to  one  of 
those  deep  ponds  where  the  river  has  little  cur- 
rent. One  of  them  held  a  burning  brand,  by  the 
light  of  which  another  struck  the  fish  with  a  large 
cane,  and  handed  it  to  the  third.  They  now  pe- 
netrated into  the  recesses  of  the  Yablonoy  by  a 
road  such  as  Sievers  had  never  seen,  and  which 
struck  him  with  dismay.  Besides  its  ruggedness 
and  steepness,  it  was  crossed  and  encumbered  by 
numberless  trees,  either  withered  with  age,  or 
torn  up  by  the  tempests.  In  the  dreadful  hol- 
lows which  they  had  to  cross,  the  cattle  often 
sunk  so  deep  in  the  mire,  that  they  could  scarce- 
ly be  dragged  out.  In  some  part  of  the  track 
along  the  two  rivulets  of  Ossa  and  Kunalei,  the 
scene  was  truly  tremendous.  Above  appeared 
immensely  high  granite  peaks,  towering  naked 
above  the  woods,  with  ranges  of  snowy  summits 
Qver  all  j  while  beneath,  the  river  was  roaring  in 


1 


SIEVERS.  '  479 

a  deep  cleft,  along  which  they  wound  by  a  road 
excessively  narrow.  A  pack-horse  once  fell,  but 
was  luckily  caught  by  trees  and  saved.  In  general 
these  animals  proceed  with  surprising  steadiness 
through  these  perilous  paths.  A  great  danger 
which  besets  the  traveller  is,  that  he  may  mistake 
one  of  the  tracts  made  by  wild  beasts  for  the 
faint  vestige  of  one  which  can  alone  lead  him 
across  these  mountains.  He  is  then  soon  involv- 
ed in  an  inextricable  labyrinth  ;  yet  if  he  has  a 
hatchet,  gun,  powder  and  shot,  he  may  procure 
for  himself  shelter  and  subsistence,  till  he  can 
scramble  to  some  human  habitation  ;  otherwise 
he  must  either  perish  or  be  devoured  by  wild 
beasts.  Our  author  had  with  him  a  guide,  who 
having  hunted  forty  years  through  these  Alps, 
was  intimate  with  every  track  and  recess  through 
their  wild  and  vast  extent. 

Through  these  tremendous  steeps  the  travellers 
at  length  reached  a  spot  marked  by  two  warm 
baths,  and  where  a  decent  cottage  had  been 
erected,  which  afforded  them  a  most  grateful 
shelter.  These  springs  rise  amid  huge  granite 
blocks,  in  an  Alpine  meadow,  surrounded  on 
every  side  by  mountains,  glaciers,  and  huge  rocks 
having  the  form  of  ruins.  They  ascended  next 
day  the  highest  ridge,  whence  they  beheld  a  vast 
range  of  rocky  and  snow-covered  peaks,  to  which 

a  thunder  storm  gave  a  terrible  grandeur.     He 

47 


480  SIBERIA." 

now  began  his  descent,  which  he  describes  as  a 
series  of  horror  upon  horror,  so  that  what  he  had 
hitherto  experienced  appeared  mere  sport  in  com- 
parison. They  went  first  through  a  morass, 
which  could  not  have  been  passable  but  for  the 
great  quantity  of  ice  which  still  remained  upon 
it.  Our  author  deeply  regrets  that  there  was  no 
painter's  eye  to  observe  the  picturesque  and  va- 
ried forms  of  the  immense  cliffs  reflected  in  its 
waters.  The  predominant  form  was  that  of  a 
number  of  pyramids  uniting  into  one  summit, 
somewhat  in  the  form  of  an  apple  ;  to  which  in 
fact  the  word  Yablonoy  makes  allusion.  The 
rest  of  their  troubles  were  merely  those  of  the 
former  days  on  an  augmented  scale,  and  render- 
ed more  serious  by  the  addition  of  an  immense 
shower  of  rain.  At  length  they  arrived  at  a 
Simowie  or  cottage  on  the  banks  of  the  Tchiko- 
kan,  which  was  to  be  the  scene  of  some  extensive 
botanical  observations.  It  was  a  place  so  enclos- 
ed by  high  and  wooded  mountains,  that  they  ap- 
peared as  if  at  the  bottom  of  a  tower,  and  could 
see  only  a  small  portion  of  the  sky.  Here  Sievers 
found  the  rhubarb  growing  in  abundance,  but  re- 
fers to  official  communications  for  a  full  detail  of 
his  observations,  only  remarking,  that  the  plant 
which  grows  on  these  high,  cold,  and  wet  spots, 
is  rendered  useless  in  medicine  by  the  too  great 
moisture   of  its   root.      These   mountains   were 


SIEVERS.  4?81 

found  rich  in  rare  plants ;  but  the  animal  world 
affords  the  chief  motive  which  makes  them  an  ob- 
ject of  resort  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring 
plains.  Among  their  wild  tenants  he  notices  the 
Arctic  bear,  which  is  taken  by  the  following  pro- 
cess. \Jally  or  small  wooden  hut,  is  erected,  in 
which  a  piece  of  carrion  is  placed.  The  door  is 
made  only  three  feet  high  ;  and  when  the  bear 
stoops  to  enter  it,  the  hunters  throw  on  him  from 
behind  a  machine  composed  of  enormous  wooden 
rollers,  which  crush  him  to  death,  without  de- 
stroying the  skin.  Our  author  enumerates  also 
several  species  of  the  stag,  the  musk  cat,  the 
wolf,  the  fox,  the  hare,  the  sable,  the  dshiggetei, 
the  wild  hog,  the  wolf,  the  squirrel. 

It  was  formerly  the  custom  among  the  Russian 
hunters  to  unite  in  associations,  which  chose  as  a 
commander  the  eldest  and  most  experienced. 
This  person  appointed  to  each  his  task,  rewarded 
those  who  did  well,  and  belaboured  with  cudgels 
such  as  failed.  Every  morning  at  breakfast,  it 
behoved  each  hunter  to  tell  his  dream,  according 
to  the  chief's  interpretation  of  which,  he  was 
either  carried  to  the  hunt,  or  left  on  guard.  At 
present  these  grand  associations  have  been  given 
up,  and  such  as  are  formed  consist  only  in  an 
agreement  to  share  the  fruits  of  their  toil,  which 
every  one  is  left  to  carry  on  in  the  manner  most 
agreeable  to  him. 

VOL.  III.  H  h 


482  SIBERIA. 

From  the  Yablonoy,  Sievers  returned  to  Kiachta, 
and  thence  to  the  banks  of  the  Irtysch.  In  1792-3 
he  made  an  excursion  into  the  steppe  of  the 
Kirghises,  still  for  the  purpose  of  discovering  and 
examining  the  rhubarb,  with  a  view  to  trans- 
plantation. There  is  no  name  more  terrible  in 
Asiatic  Russia  than  that  of  the  Kirghises,  from 
their  numerous  predatory  excursions  which  they 
make  upon  the  frontier.  Sievers,  however,  pro- 
vided himself  with  a  body  of  Cossacks  and  guides, 
to  the  number  of  twenty-two,  who  being  well  pro- 
vided with  fire-arms,  could  make  head  against 
two  hundred  Kirghises,  a  people  of  robbers  rather 
than  warriors.  He  had  also  Russian  and  Tartar 
passes  from  the  governor  of  Tomsk,  which  were 
sufficient  to  secure  him  from  any  molestation  on 
the  part  of  the  Princes.  He  found  thus  no  diffi- 
culty in  penetrating  to  the  mountain  Taragobatoi, 
near  the  lake  of  Nor  Saisan,  and  the  loftiest  part 
of  a  chain  branching  from  the  Altai.  The  party 
had  travelled  more  than  a  hundred  miles  ere  they 
saw  any  trace  of  cultivation  ;  and  on  their  disco- 
vering a  few  acres  under  tillage,  the  Russians 
insisted  that  some  of  their  countrymen  must  by 
some  accident  be  there.  The  Kirghises,  however, 
on  being  interrogated,  declared  that  it  was  all 
done  by  themselves,  and  was  even  pretty  common 
in  this  part  of  the  steppe,  though  the  manual 
labour  was  entirely  performed  by  slaves,   a  ge- 


SIEVERS,  483 

nuine  Kirghise  considering  any  such  occupation 
as  far  beneath  his  dignity.  The  plain  beneath 
this  great  mountain  range  is  considered  by  Sievers 
as  the  most  delightful  summer  residence  in  the 
world.  It  displays  the  most  rich  vegetation,  and 
at  the  same  time  enjoys  the  most  magnificent 
alpine  prospect.  The  snow  which  lies  on  the  tops 
and  in  the  hollows  of  the  mountains,  produces  a 
coolness  which  prevents  the  production  of  noxious 
or  troublesome  insects. 

Sievers  sought  here  everywhere  in  vain  for  the 
genuine  rhubarb,  instead  of  which  he  was  present- 
ed always  with  a  spurious  kind  called  rheum  Sibe* 
rium.     He  had  an  opportunity,  however,  of  ob- 
serving the  manners  and  character  of  the  Kirghise 
horde.    His  impression  was  unexpectedly  favour- 
able, and  he  even  prefers  them  to  all  the  other 
Nomadic  tribes  of  Asia.     The  Kirghise,  he  ad- 
mits, like  a  wild  beast,  gives  himself  up  to  every 
natural  instinct.     He  is  inclined  to  thieving,  and, 
like  a  child,  wishes  to  have  whatever  he  sees. 
The  possession  of  herds  above  all  appears  to  him 
to  constitute  supreme  felicity.     To  obtain  these 
he  sets  out  on  his  robberies ;  to  defend  them, 
whenever  it  is  dark  he  collects  the  whole  in  his 
yourtj  takes  his  pike,  and,  alternately  with  others, 
rides  round  it  during  the  whole  night,  accom- 
panied by  his  dogs,  who  keep  up  a  constant  bark- 
ing, to  frighten  the  wolf.     He  stands  in  little 


484*  SIBEKIA. 

awe  of  his  prince,  enters  his  court  with  few  com- 
pliments, sits  down  and  smokes  his  pipe.  If  any 
presents  are  brought  while  he  is  in  the  apart- 
ment, he  expects  a  share,  and  will  even  help  him- 
self, if  there  should  be  a  delay  in  offering  it. 
Our  author  compares  him  to  an  English  squire, 
according  to  the  idea  formed  from  Western  in 
Tom  Jones.  His  passion  rages  with  the  fury  of  a 
wild  beast,  but  it  is  soon  succeeded  by  gentleness 
and  good  humour.  Sievers  assures  us,  that  by 
dint  of  courtesy,  and  a  few  presents,  he  found 
himself  treated  as  the  best  of  friends.  He  had 
only  to  enter  ayourt,  take  his  seat,  draw  out  his 
pipe,  present  the  landlord  with  a  pennyworth  of 
tobacco,  and  the  lady  with  a  thimble  and  two 
needles,  and  from  that  moment  every  thing  in  the 
house  was  his.  The  host  would  be  his  guardian 
in  every  danger,  and  the  hostess  treated  him  as 
if  he  had  been  a  son.  Drunkenness  is  by  no 
means  so  prevalent  as  it  generally  is  among  the 
Asiatic  Nomades.  When  offered  brandy,  they 
merely  put  it  to  their  lips.  Their  favourite 
drink,  as  in  the  time  of  the  earliest  travellers,  is 
koumiss,  which  our  traveller  extols  as  a  most 
agreeable  and  wholesome  liquor,  and  only  slightly 
intoxicating. 

F.  G.  GiORGi,  who  accompanied  Pallas  in  his 
great  expedition,  afterwards  drew  up,  from  the 


GIOUGI.  4^5 

observations  then  made,  and  from  official  docu- 
ments, a  general  description  of  the  Russian  em- 
pire, the  best  of  any  yet  published.  From  this 
work  we  shall  extract  the  following  statistical 
facts  relative  to  Siberia. 

Siberia  is  divided  into  two  great  governments, 
Tobolsk  and  Irkoutsk  ;  the  former  of  which  in- 
cludes all  its  western,  and  the  latter  all  its  eastern 
regions.  Of  these,  Tobolsk,  comprehending  the 
vast  tracts  extending  along  the  banks  of  the  Obi, 
Irtysch,  and  Yenisei,  includes  the  largest  propor- 
tion of  rich  and  cultivated  land.  By  the  enume- 
ration of  1801,  it  contained  622,4^2  inhabitants, 
of  whom  306,321  were  male,  and  316,098  female. 
Of  these  2017  were  Mongols,  17,236  Ostiaks, 
273  Tschu washes,  2936  Bucharians,  1993  Tun- 
gouses,  2581  Yakoutes,  3302  Samoiedes,  308 
Jukagirs.  This  does  not  include  the  Cossacks, 
who  are  about  22,000,  nor  several  tribes  of  the 
wandering  Tartars. 

The  government  of  Irkoutsk  includes  some 
fertile  territory  on  the  southern  frontier,  and 
around  the  Baikal,  but  by  far  the  greater  portion 
consists  of  vast  and  frozen  deserts.  Its  extent 
being  vast,  however,  its  population,  in  1801,  was 
found  to  be  451,934,  of  whom  208,793  are  male, 
and  207,144  female.  Among  these  there  are,  of 
Burats,   49,764   male,   and   47,932   female ;    of 


486  SIBERIA. 

Mongols,  5713  male  ;  Tungouses,  13,^64  male, 
and  11,014  female  ;  Yakoutes,  4^,956  male,  and 
41,607  female  ;  Jukagirs,  456  male,  and  132 
female  ;  Koriaks,  900  male,  and  779  female. 


APPENDIX 


LIST  OF  AUTHORITIES  AND  IMPORTANT  WORKS  RELATING 
TO  ASIA.* 

A^.  B. — TJw  Books  mentioned  under  each  Chapter  after  the 
mark  ^  are  suck  as,  though  possessed  of  merit,  it  has  not  been 
consistent  tvilh  the  plan  and  limits  of  the  xvork  to  analyze. 

INTRODUCTION. 

CHAPTER  I The  Ancients. 

HERopoTUS,f  India,  lib.  iii.     Scythia,  lib.  iv. 
CuRTius.,  Q.  R.  de  Rebus  Gestis  Alexandri  Magni. 
Arrian,  Expeditio  Alexandri  et  Historia  Indica.    The  last 
includes  the  Voyage  of  Nearchus. 

Vincent,  Dr,  Periplus  of  Nearchus.  4to.  London,  1797. 


*  In  this  list  the  object  has  been,  to  adopt  svich  an  arrangement  as  may 
exhibit  the  authorities  on  which  each  portion  of  the  work  was  founded,  with- 
out the  necessity  of  loading  the  margin  with  references  ;^  and  at  tJie  same 
time  to  exhibit  a  systematic  Bibliography  of  Asia,  or  list  of  important  works 
relating  to  the  different  regions  of  that  continent. 

f  It  is  not  conceived  necessary  to  give  the  editions  of  the  Classics,  which 
may  be  found  in  any  bibliographical  work. 


488  APPENDIX. 

Strabo,  India,  b.  xv. 

DiODORus  SicuLus,  b.  ii.  ch.  7. 12, 13. 

Arrian,  Periplus  Maris  Erythraei.  By  itself,  and  in  Hud- 
son's Geographi  Graeci  Minores. 

Vincent,  Dr,  on  the  Periplus  of  the  Erythraean  Sea.  Vol. 
ii.  4to.  London,  1805. 

Ptolemaeus,  Geographia — Bactriana,  &c.  b.  vi.  ch.  11, 12, 
13.  Scythia,  b.  vi.  ch.  14^,  15.  Serica,  b.  vi.  ch.  16.  India, 
b.  vii.  ch.  1,  2.  Sinae,  b.  vii.  ch.  3.  Caravan  route  through 
Asia,  b.  i.  ch.  12. 

Plinius,  Historia  Naturalis,  b.  vi.  chap.  17 — 22. 

Mela  Pomponius,  b.  iii.  ch.  5,  and  7. 

D'Anville,  Antiquite  Geographique  de  I'lnde.  4to. 

Sur  la  Serique  des  Anciena,  avec  une  carte. — Li- 
mites  du  Monde  connu  des  anciens,  avec  une  carte  ( Acaderaie 
des  Belles  Lettres). 

Gosselin,  Geographic  des  Grecs.  4to.  Paris. 

Geographie  des  Anciens.    Tom.  iii.  and  iv.   ito. 

Paris,  1814. 


CHAPTER  II The  Arabians. 

Aboulfeda,  his  great  geographical  work  exists  only  in 
Arabic  and  in  manuscript;  the  "  Descriptio  Mavarelnahar  et 
Chorasmiae,"  by  Gravius,  and  the  Arabia  (Arab.  Lat.),  are  in 
Hudson's  Geographi  Graeci  Minores ;  the  Al  Send  and 
Al  Hend  (Hindostan)  are  translated  by  Thevenot  in  his  collec- 
tion, 

Edrisi,  Geographia  Nubiensis  Arab.  Lat.  per  G.  Sionitam 
et  J.  Hesronitam.  4to.  Paris,  1619.  The  Arabic  was  printed 
at  Rome,  1592. 

Ebn  Hackal,  Oriental  Geography,  translated  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Ouseley.  4to.  London,  1800. 

Ibn  al  Vardi,  Bakoui,  &c.  See  Notices  et  Extraits 
des  Manuscrits  du  Roi  de  France.    Tom.  ii. 


APPENDIX.  489 

Anciennes  relations  des  Indes  et  de  la  Chine  de  deux  Voya- 
geurs  Mahometans  qui  y  allerent  dans  le  neuvierae  siecle,  tra- 
duites  de  I'Arabe  par  I'Abbe  Renaudot.  8vo.  Paris,  1718. 

Benjamin  of  Tudela,  Itinerariura,  ex  versione  Montani. 
8vo.   Plantin.    1575.     Leyden,  Elzevir,  1633. 

In  English.    12mo.   London,  1783. 

-^— -  Extracts  in  Purchas,  Harris,  Pinkerton,  &c. 

BOOK  L 
CHAPTER  I. 

AscELiN  and  Carpini.  The  narrative  of  their  journeys 
was  first  printed  in  Vincentii  Burgundi  Speculum  Bibliothecae 
Mundi  sen  Speculum  quadruples,  10  vols.  fol.  Argentorati, 
174<7.  (There  is  a  very  early  French  translation  in  5  vols.  fol. 
under  the  title  of  Miroir  Historial). 

Opera  dilettevole  ad  intendere,  la  qua!  si  contiene 

doi  Itinerarii  in  Tartaria.  410*.  Venice,  1537. 

.  An  English   translation   of  Carpini   in   Hackluyt, 

which  wants,  however,  two  chapters.* 

A   French   translation   in   Bergeron   Voyages    (la 

Haye,  1735),  contains  the  two  chapters,  as  well  as  the  relation 
of  Ascelin. 

CHAPTER  H. 

RuBRUQUis.  The  narrative  of  this  traveller,  partially  pub- 
lished by  Hackluyt,  is  given  complete  by  Purchas  in  the  be- 
ginning of  his  third  volume,  and  copied  or  abridged  in  most  of 
the  subsequent  collections. 


•  In  the  quotations  throughout  this  work,  even  of  foreign  works,  it  has 
been  not  unusual  to  make  use  of  the  old  English  translations,  the  language 
of  which  possesses  a  force  and  naivete,  which  gives  the  spirit  of  these  early 
narratives  better  than  would  easily  be  done  in  the  English  of  the  present  day. 


490  APPENDIX. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Marco  Polo,  delle  maraviglie  del  mondo  da  lui  vedute  o 
Viaggi,  &c.   fol.   Venice,  1496.  Ibid.  1508. 

In  German,  Nuremberg,  l^?!. 

In  Spanish,  with  a  treatise  by  Regio  on  the  coun- 
tries visited  by  Marco  Polo.  fol.   Seville,    1720. 

In  French.  4to.   Pax'is,  1556. 

In  English,   fol.    1579. 

Translated  into  English,  with  ample  notes,  by  Wil- 


liam Marsden,  F. R.  S.  (the  best  edition  yet  published)  4to. 
London,    1818. 

. Inserted  in  the  Italian  collection  of  Ramusio ;  French 

translation  in  Bergeron ;  English  tx-anslation  in  Purchas,  Pin- 
kerton,  and  several  other  collections. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Oderic  de  PoRTENAu,  de  Mirabilibus  Mundi.  Inserted 
under  the  date  of  1318  in  the  Acts  of  Bollandus,  and  in  the 
Annals  of  Widingius ;  also,  with  a  translation,  in  Hackluyfc's 
collection. 

Mandeville,  Sir  John,  A  lytell  Treatise  or  Booke,  named 
Johan  Mandeuyll,  Kn3rht,  born  in  Englande,  in  the  towne  of 
Saint  Abone,  and  speaketh  of  the  ways  of  the  Holy  Lande 
toward  Jherusalem,  and  of  Maruyles  of  Inde,  and  of  other 
dyverse  countries.  London,  1499.  8vo — 1503,  8vo — 1568, 4to. 
—1684,  4to 1725,  8vo. 

In  French,  very  rare.  Lyon.  Barth.  Boyer.    1480. 

, Another.   4to.   Paris.   Jehan  Bonfon.  Goth. 

In  Italian.   Venice,  1497.  1537.  1567. 

— — -  In  Spanish.  Valencia,   fol.   1540. 

.  In  Hackluyt,  ed.  1589. 

RicoLD  de  Monte  Crucis,  Voyages  in  Tartarie,'  traduits  en 
Francais  en  1351  par  Jean  le  Long  d'Ypres.     This  narrative, 


APPENDIX.  491 

wliich  M.  Make  Brum  seems  to  consider  as  unpublished,  and 
probably  as  lost,  I  found,  with  several  other  curious  ones,  in 
the  following  rare  work  in  the  collection  of  John  Rennie,  Esq. 

L'Histoire  plaisante  et  recreative  du  Grand  Em- 

pereur  de  Tartaric  nomme  le  Grand  Can.  Fol,  bl.  1.  1528. 


CHAPTER  V Age  of  Timur. 

Ci-Avijo,  Historia  del  gran  Tamerlan  ;  ov  Itinerario  y  nar- 
ration  del  viage  y  relacion  de  la  ambaxada  que  Ruy  Goncales 
de  Clavijo  hizo  por  mandado  del  senor  rey  Don  Henrique  el 
Tercero,  de  Castille,  en  anno  1403,  con  discurso  de  Goncales 
Argova  da  Molina,  y  la  vida  del  Tamerlan  escripta  por  Paulo 
Jovio.  Seville,  fol.  1582.  Very  rare.  Reprinted  Madrid 
1782. 

ScHiLDTBERGER,  Johu.  A  short  analysis  in  Forster's  Dis- 
coveries in  the  North,  p.  153 — 155.  I  have  never  been  able 
to  see  the  book  itself,  nor  even  its  title  and  date  in  any  cata- 
logue. 

Shah  Rokh,  embassy  by.  In  the  collections  of  Forster 
and  Astley.     More  fully  in  Asiatic  Annual  Register. 

— ^— -  Ambassades  reciproques  des  Rois  des  Indes  et  de  la 
Chine,  en  14'12;  traduites  du  Persan,  avec  la  vie  de  ces  deux 
Souverains,  et  des  Notes  par  M.  Langles.   Paris,  1788.   8vo. 

CHAPTER  VI Southern  Coasts. 

Pinto,  Fernan  Mendez,  Peregrinacam,  en  que  da  contaf 
de  muytas  e  muyto  estranhas  chusas  que  vio  e  ovvio  no  reyno 
da  China,  no  da  Tartaria,  no  da  Sornam,  que  vulgarmente  se 
chanm  Siam,  no  do  Calaminham,  no  de  Pegu,  no  de  Martavan, 
e  em  outros  muytos  reynos  e  senhorios  das  Partes  orientales. 
fol.  Lisboa,  1614.    Ibid.  1763. 

'- In  Spanish.   Madrid,  1627-   Valencia,  1645. 

■  In  Dutch.    Amsterdam,  1653. 


492  APPENDIX. 

Pinto,  In  German.    Amsterdam,  1671. 
.  In  French.    Paris,  1645. 

In  English,   fol.    1663. 

Shahpey  and  Middleton.     In  Purchas's  Pilgrims,  vol,  i. 
•  ■-  Narrative  of  a  Voyage  to  Arabia  Felix,  with  an  Ac- 
count of  the  captivity  of  Sir  Henry  Middleton  at  Mocha.  8vo. 
This  does  not  contain  Sir  Henry's  own  narrative,  which  in 
found  only  in  Purchas. 

Grantham,  Sir  Thomas.  Manuscript.  Harleian.  4753. 
(British  Museum). 

Albuquerque  Coelho,  Antonio  de,  Governador  e  Capitao 
General  da  Cidade  do  Nome  de  Deos  de  Macao  na  China. 
Jornada  que  fez  de  Goa  ate  chegar  a  dita  Cidade  no  anno  de 
1718.  Escrita  pelo  Capitao  Joao  Tavarez  de  Velles  Guer- 
reiro.    12mo.   Lisboa  Occidental,    1732. 

«[|  LiNSCHOTEN,  Joan.  Navigatio  et  Itinerarium  in  Indiam 
Orientalem,  et  descriptio  totius  Guineae  tractus,  Loangae,  An- 
golse,  et  Monomotapse,  insularumque  S.  Thomae,  S.  Helenae, 
Ascensionis,  nee  non  insulae  Madagascar,  situsque  terrae  fir- 
mae  a  Bonae  Spei  promontorio,  usque  ad  mare  rubrum.  Hagae, 
1599.  Amsterdam,  1614.  Also  in  de  Bry  (Little  Voyages), 
parts  2,  3,  4. 

Rhodes,  P.  Alexandre  de,  Voyages  et  Missions  en  la 
Chine  en  autre  royaumes  d'Orient.  Paris,  4to.  1653,  1666, 
1682. 

Hamilton,  Alexander.  A  new  account  of  the  East  Indies, 
giving  an  account  of  the  situation,  product,  manufactures, 
laws,  customs,  religion,  trade,  &c.  of  all  the  countries  and 
islands  which  lie  between  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the 
island  of  Japan.  2  vols.  8vo.  Edinburgh,  1727.  London, 
1747. 

Recueil  des  Voyages  qui  ont  servi  a  I'etablissement  et  aux 
progres  de  la  Compagnie  des  Indes  Orient,  des  Hollandois, 
publie  par  Constantin.  5  toms.  8vo.  Amsterdam,  1702-1706. 
10  toms.  12mo.    1730. 


APPENDIX.  493 


CHAPTER  VII.— The  Caspian. 

Jenkinson,  Johnson,  &c.  appeared  first  in  Hackluyt,  part- 
ly copied  by  Purchas,  Pinkerton,  &c.  translated  in  Theve- 
not  and  Recueil  des  Voyages  au  Nord. 

CuBERO,  Peregrinacion  che  ha  hecho  de  la  mayor  parte  del 
Mondo,  D.  Pedro  Sebastiano  Cubero.  fol.   Saragossa,  1688. 

Beckewitz,  Bbuce.  Memoirs  of  Peter  Henry  Bruce,  con- 
taining an  Account  of  his  Travels  in  Germany,  Russia,  Tar- 
tary,  &c.    4to.    London,  1782. 

Elton,  Hanway,  &c.  Historical  Account  of  the  British 
Trade  over  the  Caspian  Sea,  w^ith  a  Journal  of  Travels  from 
London  through  Russia,  into  Prussia,  and  back  again  through 
Russia  into  Germany  and  Holland ;  to  which  are  added  the 
Revolutions  of  Persia  during  the  present  century,  by  Jonas 
Hanway.     2  vols.  4to.    London,  1753. 

^  Bel^l,  John,  of  Antermony's,  Travels  from  St  Petersburg 
in  Russia  to  several  parts  of  Asia.  2  vols.  4to.  Glasgow,  1763. 

HiSTOiRE  des  Decouvertes  faites  par  plusieurs  savans  voy- 
ageurs  (Pallas,  Graelin,  Guldenstedt,  and  Lepechin),  dans 
plusieurs  contrees  de  la  Russie  et  de  la  Perse.  2  vols.  ^to. 
Hague,  1779.    3  torn.  4to.    Geneve,  1785—6. 

CHAPTER  VIII From  India  overland. 

Tenreiro,  Antonio.  The  only  copy  of  this  narrative  which 
I  have  seen  is  one  appended  to  the  folio  edition  of  Mendez 
Pinto,  published  at  Lisbon  in  1763. 

Bernardino,  Fray  Gaspar  de  Sao.  Itinerario  do  India 
por  Terra.    4to.    Lisbon,  1611. 

GoDiNHo,  P.  Manuel.  Relacao  de  novo  caraino  que  fez  por 
terra  e  mar  da  India  para  Portugal,  no  anno  1663.  Lisbon, 
Svo.  1665. 

Capper,  James,  Col.     Observations  on  the  passage  to  In- 


49*  APPENDIX. 

dia  through  Egypt ;  also  by  Vienna  through  Constantinople  to 
Aleppo,  Sec.   -ito.    London,  1784?.    8vo.  1785. 

Campbell,  Donald,  of  Barbreck.  A  Journey  overland  to 
India,  partly  by  a  route  never  gone  before  by  any  European. 
4to.    London,  1775. 

Taylou,  John,  Travels  from  Lidla  by  the  way  of  Tyrol, 
Venice,  &c.    2  vols.  8vo.    London,  1799. 

^  Ives,  Edward,  Esq.  A  Voyage  from  India  to  England  in 
1754 ;  also  a  Voyage  from  Persia  to  England  by  an  unusual 
route.    4to.    London,  1773. 

Jackson,  John,  Journey  from  India  towards  England,  by 
a  route  commonly  called  overland ;  particularly  between  the 
rivers  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  through  Curdistan,  Diarbeck, 
Armenia,  and  Natolia,  in  Asia.    8vo.    London,  1799. 

CHAPTER  IX.— Thibet. 

Andrada,  Antonio,  novo  descubrimento  do  grao  Catayo 
ou  dos  reynos  de  Tibet.  4to.  Lisboa,  1626.  I  have  only  been 
able  to  find  this  and  some  similar  narratives  in  the  following 
work. 

NiEREMBERG,  Claros  varones  de  la  Companhia  de  Jesu, 
6  tom.  fol.    Madrid,  1643,  &c.* 

Grueber  and  Dorvillk.  Their  narrative  is  inserted  in 
Kircher's  China  lUustrata  (fol.  1667),  and  in  the  fourth  vo- 
lume of  Thevenot's  Relation  de  Voyages  curieux. 

Desideri,  Lettres  edifiantes  et  curieuses,  tom.  xi. 

*  The  titles  of  the  volumes  are  fiincifully  varied,  thus:  Ideas  de  Virtud 
en  algunos  claros,  &c.  Firmamento  religioso  de  Luzidos  astros  en  algunos 
&c.  Honor  del  gran  Patriarca  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola,  &c.  (1645).  Vidas 
exemplaresy  venerabiles  Memorias  de  algunos,  &c.  (1647).  The  two  last  vo- 
lumes are  by  Alonzo  de  Andrada,  and  are  entitled  Varones  illustres  in  San- 
titad,  Letras,  y  Zelo,  &c,  (1666 — 67).  In  the  king's  library  I  had  an  op. 
portunity  of  picking  oiit  the  grains  of  barley  from  this  immense  mass  of  Je- 
euit  chaff. 


APPENDIX.  495 

Horace  de  la  Penna,  Relazione  del  Stato  presente  del 
gran  regno  de  Thibet.     8vo.  Roma,  1732. 


CHAPTER  X Central  Asia. 

Pegoletti.  (In  Forster's  Voyages  au  Nord). 

Chesaud.  (In  Astley's  Collection). 

GoEZ.  This  narrative  in  the  original  Portuguese  is  given 
by  Nieremberg,  (see  above).  There  is  a  Latin  translation  in 
the  *'  Christiana  expeditio  apud  Sinas"  of  Riccio.  The  ana- 
lyses of  Purchas  and  Astley  are  very  slovenly  and  inaccurate. 

Gerbillon,  in  Duhalde,  Description  Historique,  &c.  de  la 
Chine. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  materials  for  this  chapter  are  generally  derived  from 
those  already  enumerated,  particularly  under  the  first  chapter 
of  the  Introduction. 

BOOK  IL 

CHAPTER  I Early  Voyages  to  India. 

CosMAs  Indicopleustes.  In  Montfaucon.  Collectio  Nova 
Patrum,  Graecorum  (2  torn.  fol.  Paris,  1705),  Gr.  Lat.  A  part 
of  it  (Gr.  Fr.)  in  Thevenot's  Collection. 

CoNTi,  Sto  Stefano.    In  Ramusio's  Collection,  torn.  i. 

Abdoulrizack.  Translated  with  Notes  by  M.  Langles  in 
his  Collection  Portative  des  Voyages.    12mo.    Paris,  1805. 

Barthema, — Ludovici,  patricii,  Romae  novum  Itinerarium 
Ethiopiae,  Egypti,  utriusque  Arabiae,  Persiae,  Syriae  et  Indiae, 
citra  ultraque  Gangem.  fol.     No  date,  extremely  rare. 

Fol.  Milan.  1511. 

..  In  Spanish  (with  the  name),    fol.    Seville,  1576. 
28 


496  APPENDIX. 

Barthkma,  in  Ramusio,  torn.  i.  English  Translation,  under 
the  name  of  Vertomannus,  in  Willes  and  Eden's  Decades. 
4-to.  1555. 

CHAPTER  II. — Portuguese  Discovery. 

Di  Barros,  Decades  IV.  de  Asia.  fol.  1552,  1602.  Conti- 
nued by  Couto,  Decades  V — XL  fol.  (It  is  doubtful  if  the  four 
last  have  been  printed). 

Reprinted  in  15  vols.  12mo.    Lisboa,  1777. 

Castanheda,  Fernan  Lopez  de,  Historia  de  descobrimento 
e  conquista  da  India  por  los  Portugueses.  8  torn.  fol.  Coimbra, 
1552—4. 

Ital.  by  Ulloa.   2  torn.  4to.   Venice,  1578. 

f  Faria  y  Sousa,  Manuel,  Asia  Portuguesa.  3  torn.  fol. 
Lisboa,  1666—75. 

OsoRio,  Hieronymo,  de  Rebus  Emanuelis  Lusitaniae  regis 
virtute  et  auspiciis  gestis.  fol.   Lisboa,  1575. 

CHAPTER  III. — Portuguese  Missionaries. 

Guzman,  Historia  de  las  missiones  che  han  hecho  los  reli- 
giosos  de  la  companhia  de  Jesus,  para  predicar  el  Santo  Evan- 
gelio  en  la  India  Oriental  y  en  los  Reynos  de  China  y  Japon. 
2  torn.  fol.    Alcala,  1601. 

Oriente  Conquistado  a  Jesu  Christo  pelos  Padres  da 
companhia  de  Jesu  da  Provincia  de  Goa.    2  torn.  4to.    1710. 

Cartas  de  la  India.  1551,  1562,  1611. 

Manrique,  Itinerario  de  las  missiones  del  India  Oriental. 
4to.    Roma,  1653. 

CHAPTER  IV— English  Embassies. 

MiLDENHALL,  Hawkins,  Roe.  In  Purchas,  vol.  i.  Roe 
more  fully  in  Churchill's  Collection,  vol.  i.  and  afterwards 
printed  separately.  4to.  154-0. 


APPENDIX.  497 

CHAPTER  V. — Miscellaneous  Travels. 

Bruton,  William,  Newes  from  the  East  Indies,  or  Voj'age 
to  Bengalla.  4rto.  London,  1638.  Reprinted  in  Osborne's  Col- 
lection. 

Graaf,  Voyages  de,  Amst.  12mo.  1719  ;  and  in  Hist.  Gen. 
des  Voyages. 

Mandeslo,  Joh.  Albr.  Morgenlandische  Reisebeschreibung, 
mit  Adam  Olearius  Ammerkungen.  fol.  Sclileswick,  1647. 
French  Translation.  Amsterdam,  1727. 

■  In  English  by  Davies.  fol.  1669. 

Bernier,  Francis,  Voyages,  nontenant  la  description  des 
Etats  du  Grand  Mogul  del  Indostan,  &c.  2  torn.  12mo.  Amst. 
1699,  1723,  1725. 

■  In  English,  1671 — 2.  Inserted  in  Osborne  and  Pin- 
kerton's  Collections. 

Ta vernier,  (J.  B.)  Voyage  en  Turquie,  en  Perse,  et  aux 
Indes.  6  torn.  12mo.  Paris,  (Hollande),  1692. 
Utrecht,  1712. 

■  In  English,   fol.   London,  1678. 

Hodges  (William,  R.  A.)  Travels  in  India  during  the 
years  1780, -1 -2-3.  4to.  London,  1793—1794.  Translated 
with  Notes  by  M.  Langles  in  his  Bibliotheque  Portative  des 
Voyages.   Paris,  1805. 

NiECAMP,  Jo.  Luc.  Historia  Missionis  Evangelicas  n  India 
Orientali.  4to.  Halle,  1747.  Abridged  from  a  German  work 
en  the  same  subject,  in  13  vols.  4to. 

f  Thevenot  (Jean)  Voj'age,  contenant  la  relation  de  ITn- 
doustan,  des  nouveaux  Mogols,  et  autres  peuples  et  pays 
des  Indes.  4to.   Paris,  1684. 

Dellon,  Voyage  aux  Indes  Orientales.  Amsterdam.  12mo. 
1699. 

.  In  English,  with  his  account  of  the  Inquisition  at 
Goa.  Sto.   1699. 

VOL.  III.  I  i 


498  APPENDIX. 

Tapp  (David)  Funfzehnjahrige  Ostindianische  Reise-bes- 
chreibung  von    1667 — 16S2.   4to.   Hanover,  1714. 

Grose  (John  Henry)  Voyage  to  the  East  Indies,  begun  in 
1750,  and  continued  till  1764'.  8vo.  London,  1766. — French 
translation.   12mo.    Paris,  1758. 

TiEFENTHALLER  (P.  Joscph)  Historisch- Geographischc 
Beschreibung  von  Hindostan,  &c.  herausgegeben  von  J.  Ber- 
nouilli.   2  vols.  Svo.   Berlin,  1786. 

•  In  French,  with  Anquetil  du  Perron's  Recherches, 

and  Rennel's  map.   3  torn.  4to.    17S5. 

Rennel  (James)  Memoir  of  a  Map  of  Hindostan,  or  the 
Mogul  Empire,  with  an  Introduction  illustrative  of  the  geogra- 
phy and  present  division  of  that  country,  and  a  Map  of  the 
country  situated  between  the  borders  of  the  Indus  and  the 
Caspian.    Svo.   London,  1788. 

■    I  In  French  from  the  7th  edition.   3  torn.  Svo.    1800. 

CHAPTERS  VI.  VIL  VIII.— Descriptiom 
OF  Hindostan. 

Asiatic  Researches  ;  or  Transactions  of  the  Society  in- 
stituted in  Bengal,  for  inquiring  into  the  history  and  antiqui- 
ties, the  arts,  sciences,  and  literature  of  Asia.  12  vols.  4to  and 
Svo.   Calcutta — London  reprinted,  1799 — 1819. 

Asiatic  Annual  Register  for  1799  and  following  years. 
Svo.   London. 

Fifth  Report  of  the  Select  Committee  of  the  House  of 
Commons  on  the  affairs  of  the  East  India  Company.  Order- 
ed to  be  printed  12th  July  1812.    I  large  foho  volume. 

Papers  relating  to  the  East  India  Company,  ordered  to  be 
printed  3d  and  13th  June  1813.  2  vols.  foho.  Include  Mr 
Grant's  View  of  the  State  of  Society  among  the  Asiatic  sub- 
jects of  Great  Britain,  Mr  Strachey's  Reports,  &c. 

Jones  (Sir  WUliam)  Works.   8  vols.  4to.   1799—180]. 


APPENDIX.  499 

BucHAKAN  (now  Hamilton)  Francis,  M.  D.  A  Journey 
from  Madras  through  the  countries  of  Mysore,  Canara,  and 
Malabar,  for  the  express  purpose  of  investigating  the  state  of 
agriculture,  arts,  and  commerce;  the  religion,  manners,  and 
customs  ;  the  history,  natural  and  civil;  and  antiquities.  3  vols. 
4:to.    London,  1807. 

Mill  (James)  History  of  British  India.  3  vols.  4to.  Lon- 
don, 1818. 

CoLEBRooKE  (H.)  Remarks  on  the  husbandry  and  com- 
merce of  Bengal.  8vo.   London,  1806. 

Valentia  (Lord)  Voyages  and  Travels.  3  vols.  4to.  4  vols. 
8vo. 

Graham  (Maria)  Journal  of  a  residence  in  India.  4to. 
Edin.  1812—1815. 

Letters  on  India.  8vo.    Edin.  1815. 

Wilkes  (Col.  M.)  Historical  Sketches  of  the  south  of 
India.  3  vols.  410.   London,  v.  y. 

Dubois  (Abbe)  Description  of  the  character,  manners,  and 
customs  of  the  people  of  India,  -ito.   London,  1817. 

Ward,  View  of  the  history,  religion,  and  literature  of  the 
Hindoos.  2  vols.  8vo.   3d  Edit.   2  vols.  8vo.   1817. 

ToxE  on  the  Mahrattas,  (in  Asiatic  Annual  Register). 

Broughton  (T.  D.)  Letters  written  in  a  Mahratta  camp 
in  1809.  4to.  London,  1813. 

Fitzclarence  (Lt.  Col.)  Journey  from  India  to  England. 
4to.   London,  1819. 

Malcolm  (Sir  John)  Sketch  of  the  Sikhs.  8vo.  London, 
1812.     (Several  papers  on  the  subject  in  Asiatic  Researches). 

Tytler  (Alex.  Fraser)  Considerations  on  the  present  poli-' 
tical  state  of  India.   2  vols.  8vo.    1815. 

Buchanan  (Rev.  Claudius)  Christian  Researches  in  Asia. 
8vo.   London,  1811. 

Hamilton  (Walter)  East  India  Gazetteer.  8vo.  London, 
1815. 


5tU  APPENDIX. 

Hamilton,  Geographical  Description  of  Hindostan,  2  vols. 
4to.   London,  1820. 

BOOK  III. 

CHAPTER  I The  Himmaleh. 

Hardwicke  (Capt.)  Narrative  of  a  Journey  to  Serinagur. 
Asiatic  Researches. 

Webb  and  Raper,  Journey  to  explore  the  sources  of  the 
Ganges.  Ibid.  vol.  x. 

CoLEBRooKE  (H.)  On  the  height  of  the  Himalaya  mountains. 
Ibid.  vol.  xi. 

MooRCROFT,  Journey  to  the  lake  Manasarowara  in  Undes. 
Ibid.  vol.  xii. 

Quarterly  Review  for  February  1820. 

Fraser  (J.  B.)  Outline  of  his  narrative  in  Edinburgh  Philo- 
sophical Journal,  No.  1. 

CHAPTER  H.— Thibet. 

BoGLE,  Account  of  Thibet,  containing  a  description  of  the 
manners,  customs,  religion,  and  commerce  of  the  inhabitants, 
extracted  from  his  papers  by  Mr  Stewart.  Philosophical 
Transactions,  No.  67.  part.  2.  and  Annual  Register  1778. 

Turner  (Samuel)  An  Account  of  an  Embassy  to  the  court 
of  Teshoo  Lama  in  Thibet,  containing  a  narrative  of  a  journey 
through  Bootan  and  part  of  Thibet ;  to  which  are  added,  views 
taken  upon  the  place  by  Lieutenant  Samuel  Davis,  and  ob- 
servations mineralogical,  botanical,  and  medical,  by  Robert 
Saunders.   4to.   London,  1800. 

CHAPTER  IH.— Nepal. 

Giuseppe  (Father)  Account  of  Nepal,  including  the  narra- 
tion of  its  invasion  by  Purthi  Nerain. — Asiatic  Researches, 
vol.  ii. 


APPENDIX.  501 

KiRKPAxnicK  (Col.)  An  account  of  the  kingdom  of  Nepal, 
being  the  substance  of  observations  made  during  a  mission  to 
that  country  in  the  year  1793;  illustrated  with  a  map  and 
other  engravings.   4to.   London,  1811. 

Hamilton  (formerly  Buchanan)  Francis,  M.  D.  An  ac- 
count of  the  kingdom  of  Nepal,  and  of  the  territories  annexed 
to  this  dominion  by  the  House  of  Gorkha  ;  with  engravings. 
4to.    Edin.  1819. 

CHAPTER  IV. — Countries  west  of  India. 

FoKSTER  (George)  A  Journey  from  Bengal  to  England, 
through  the  northern  parts  of  India,  Cashmire,  Afghanistan, 
and  Persia,  and  into  Russia  by  the  Caspian  Sea.  2  vols.  4rto. 
London,  1798.   8vo.  1808. 

Elphinston  (Mount  Stewart)  An  Account  of  the  king- 
dom  of  Caubul,  and  its  dependencies  in  Persia,  Tartary,  and 
India.   4to.  London,    1815.   edit,  in  2  vols.  8vo. 

PoTTiNGER,  Travels  in  Beloochistan  and  Sinde.  4to.  Lon- 
don. 

Encyclopaedia  Britannica,  Supplement,  art.  Caubul.  As  this 
article  was  contributed  by  the  author  of  this  work,  he  has 
taken  the  liberty  to  extract  a  few  pages  verbatim. 

BOOK  IV. 
CHAPTER  I Persia,  (early). 

Zeno  (Caterino)  Commentari  del  Viaggio  in  Persia  e  delle 
guerre  fatte  nell*  imperio  Persian©  del  tempo  di  Uxan  Cassano, 
&c.  8vo.   Venice,  1558. 

Barb  ARC  (Josafat)  no  separate  edition. 

CoNTARiNi  (Ambrogio)  Viaggio  del  Ambasciatore  della 
signoria  di  Venetia  al  Uxan  Cassan  re  di  Persia,  &c.  12mo. 
Venice,  1543. 

The  above  three  narratives  are  printed  by  Aldus  in  one 


502  APPENDIX. 

small  8vo  volume,  entitled,  Viaggi  fatti  da  Vinegia,  &c.  Ve- 
nice, ISiS-lS^S.  They  are  also  inserted  in  the  collection  of 
Rarausio. 

Sherley,  Sir  Antony,  Relation  of  his  Travels  into  Persia. 
4;to.  1613.   Also  in  Purchas. 

Don  Garcia  de  Sylva,  Coramentarios  de  la  Enabaxada 
que  del  parte  del  Rey  de  Espana  Don  Phelipe  III.  hizo  al 
Rey  Scha  Abas  de  Persia.  Anno  1618.  Ayscough  MSS. 
(British  Museum). 

i  De  Rebus  Persarum  Epistola.    1619.    Spahani  exa- 

rata.  Antwerpiae,  1620.     This  letter  does  not  contain  any  of 
the  particulars  in  the  above  MS.  narrative. 

Herbert,  Thomas,  A  Relation  of  some  years  Travels  into 
Africa  and  the  Great  Asia,  especially  the  territories  of  the 
Persian  monarchy,  and  some  parts  of  the  Oriental  Indies,  and 
Isles  adjacent,  fol.  London,   1634^,  1635,  1665,  1667. 

In  French,  by  Wiquefort.   4to.    1663. 

Olearius,  Adam,  Muskowitische  oft  begehrle  Beschrei- 
burg  der  neuen  Orientalischen  Reise  an  der  Koenig  in  Persien, 
(with  Mandeslo's  narrative  appended).  Sleswig.  fol.  IG^?. 
A  more  complete  edition  at  Hamburg,  1690. 

In  French,  by  Wiquefort.  fol.   Amst.  1 726. 

In  English.   4to.    1669. 

Chardin,  Chev.  Journal  du  Vo3'^age  en  Perse,  et  aux  Indes 
Orientales,  par  la  Mer  Noire,  fol.  London,  1686.  This  edi- 
tion contains  only  the  journey  from  Paris  to  Ispahan.  The 
description  of  Persia  never  appeared  till  the  following  : 

Voyage  de  M.  le  Chevalier  Chardin  en  Perse,  et  autres 
lieux  de  I'Orient.  Amst.   10  torn.  12mo.   1711. 

■     '  Le  Meme.   Amst.  4  tom.  4to.  1735. 

— — —  Le  Meme,  augmentee  des  Notes,  &c.  par  M. 
Langles.  10  torn.  Svo.  avec  des  planches  en  folio.  (The 
best  edition). 

Bembo,  Ambrogio — in  Morelli,  Dissertation  respecting  some 
learned  Venetians  who  are  little  known.  Ital.  Venice,  fol.  1 804. 


APPENDIX.  503 

Leandro,  Persia,  overo  secondo  Viaggio  di  F.  Leandro  di 
Sto  Cecilia  carmelitano  scalzo,  dell'  Oriente,  scritta  da  mede- 
simo.  4to.   Boma,  1757. 

5[  Valle,  Pietro  della,  Viaggi  in  Turchia,  Persia,  e  India, 
(chiefly  Persia).   4  torn.  4to.   Roma,  1650,  1658,  1663. 

Bruyn,  Corn  le,  Journey  through  Muscovy  to  Persia  and 
the  East  Indies,  (In  Dutch).  Distinguished  by  its  valuable 
plates  representing  cities  and  ruins. 

In  French.   Amst.   2  vols.  fol.   1718. 

In  English.   3  vols.  fol.    1718. 

Franklin,  William,  Observations  made  on  a  Tour  from 
Bengal  to  Schiraz,  with  a  short  account  of  the  remains  of  the 
celebrated  palace  of  Persepolis.  8vo.   London,  1790. 

Beauchamp,  Voyage  en  Perse.  (Journal  des  Savans. 
1790.) 

CHAPTER  II Persia,  (recent.) 

Malcolm,  Sir  John,  History  of  Persia,  from  the  earliest 
ages  to  the  present  time.   2  vols.  410.   1816. 

Olivier,  Voyage  en  Perse.  2  vols.  8vo.   Paris,  1807. 

Waring,  Scott,  Tour  to  Schiraz.  4to.   1812. 

MoRiER,  James,  Journey  through  Persia,  Armenia,  and 
Asia  Minor,  to  Constantinople,  in  the  years  1808  and  1809. 
4to.   London,  1812. 

Macdonald  Kinneir,  John,  Geographical  Memoir  of  the 
Persian  Empire,  accompanied  by  a  map.  4to.   London,  1813. 

Rich,  Claudius  James,  Memoir  on  the  ruins  of  Babylon. 
8vo.   London,  1815. 

^  MoRiER,  (J.)  Second  Journey  through  Persia  to  Con- 
stantinople, between  the  years  1810-16  ;  together  with  an  ac- 
count of  his  Majesty's  embassy  under  Sir  Gore  Ouseley,  Bart. 
4to.    1818. 

Ouseley,  (Sir  William)  Travels  in  various  countries  of  the 
East,  particularly  Persia,   vol.  i.  4to.   1819. 


504  APPENDIX. 

CHAPTER  III.— Holy  Land. 

AncuLFUs — WiLLiBALD — Berkard — in  Mabillon  Acta 
Sanctorum  Ordinis  S.  Benedicti.   Seculum  Tertium. 

BouLDESELL  (William  de)  L'liystoire  plaisante,  &c.  See 
under  Ricold,  page  491. 

Brocquiere  (Bertrandon  de)  Voyage,  first  published  in 
the  Memoires  of  the  French  Institute. 

.  In  English  by  Johnes,  and  in  new  edition  of  Hack- 

luyt. 

Breydenbach  (Bern,  de)  Opus  transmarinae  peregrina- 
tionis  ad  sepulchrum  Doniinicum  in  Hierusalem.  fol.  1483. 
Mentz,  14-86,  1541.   Spire,  1502. 

. In  French,  1484,  1489,  1517. 

Baumgarten  (Martin)  Peregrinatio  in  JEgyptum,  Ara- 
bian!, Palestinam,  et  Syriam.    Nuremberg,  1621,  1673. 

^— —  In  English,  in  Churchill's  Collection. 

Georgewitz  (Bart.)  Voyage  de  la  Sainte  Cite  de  Jerusa- 
lem, avec  les  ceremonies  des  Turcs.    Liege.   4to.   1600. 

Aldersey  (Laurence)  in  Hackluyt. 

Sandys  (George)  Travels,  fol.  London,  1615, 1621,  1673; 
also  in  Purchas. 

<([  RosAcio  (Giuseppe)  Viaggi  de  Venetia  a  Constantino- 
poli,  e  per  mare  e  per  terra  insierae  quella  della  Terra  Santa. 
4to.   Venice,  1518,  1598. 

Zuallardo,  Devotissimo  Viaggio  de  Jerusalem,  fatto  e 
descritto  Tanno  1586,  con  disegni  di  Varii  Luoghi  di  Terra 
Santa.  8vo.  Roma,  1587,  1595. 

Adrichomius,  Theatrum  Terrae  Sanctae.  fbl.  Cologne, 
1590. 

Vera  (Juan  Caverio  de)  Viage  de  la  Terra  Santa  y  de»- 
cripeion  de  Jerusalem,  y  del  Sante  Monte  Libano.  8vo.  Pam- 
peluna,  1613. 

CoTovicus  (Joan)  Itinerarium  Hierosolymitanum  et  Syria- 
cum.  4to.   Antwerp,  1619. 


APPENDIX.  505 

Brocardus  (Bonaventura)  Palestina  sive  Descriptio  Terrae 
Sanctae. 

NoE  (Fr.)  Viaggio  de  Venetia  al  Santi  Sepolcro  e  al  Monte 
Sinai.   8vo.   Venice,  16S8,  1676.    Bassano,  1685. 

DouBDAN  (M.  J.)  Voyage  de  la  Terre  Sainte,  enrichie  de 
figures,   ^to.    Paris,  1661. 

CiiERON  (Anne)  Agce  de  guatre  vingts  sins,  Uelation  d'un 
Voyage,  (a  Jerusalem).   Paris.  12mo.  1671. 

Gonzales  (D.)  Reisen  nach  Jerusalem.  2  vols.  4to.  Ant- 
werp. 

MoRisoN  (Sieur)  Relation  d'un  voyage  nouvellement  fait 
au  Mount  Sinai  et  a  Jerusalem.   4  to.   Toul,  1704. 

Relandus  (Hadrian)  Palestina  ex  monumentis  veieribus 
illustrata.  4to.   Utrecht. 

CHAPTER  IV — Asiatic  Tuexey. 

Eldred  (John)  in  Hackluyt. 

BiDDULPH  (William)  Travels  of  certain  Englishmen  into 
farre  countries,  Africa,  Asia,  Troy,  Bithynia,  &c.  Svo.  Lon- 
don, 1609. 

PococKE  (Richard)  A  description  of  the  East,  and  of  some 
other  countries.  3  vols,  folio.  1743,  1745,  1748.  (Reprinted 
in  Pinkerton's  Collection). 

In  French,  6  vols.  12mo.  1772. 

Wood,  Ruins  of  Palmyra,  formerly  called  Tadmor  in  the 
Desert,   fol.  London,  1753. 

Ruins  of  Baalbek,  anciently  called  Heliopolis  or 

Ccelosyria.   fol.    1757. 

Chandler  (Richard)  Travels  in  Asia  Minor;  or  an  ac- 
count of  a  Tour  made  at  the  expense  of  the  Society  of  Dillet- 
tanti.   2  vols.  4to.   Oxford,  1774. 

Clarke  (Edward  Daniel)  Travels  in  various  countries  in 
Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  Fart  IL  Sect.  1.  4to.  LondoD, 
1812. 


6O0  APPENDIX. 

Macdonald  Kinneir  (John)  Journey  through  Asia  Mi- 
nor, Armenia,  and  Koordistan,  in  1813,  1814,  with  remarks 
on  the  marches  of  Alexander,  and  the  retreat  of  the  Ten 
Thousand.   8vo.    1818. 

Seetzen  (Dr)  In  Malte  Brun,  Annales  des  Voyages. 

BuRCKHARDT  (John  Lewis)  Travels  in  Nubia.  4-to.  Lon- 
don, 1819. 

^  Lucas  (Paul)  Voyage  au  Levant,  avec  figures.  2  tora. 
J2mo.   Paris,  1704. 

Maundrell  (Henry)  Journey  from  Aleppo  to  Jerusalem 
at  Easter,  A.  D.  1697.  8vo.  Oxford,  1703,  1707,  1714,  &c. 
(In  Pinkerton's  Collection). 

Thevenot  (Sieur)  Voyage  au  Levant,  &c.  5  torn.  12mo. 
Amst.  1725. 

Mariti  (Abate)  Viaggio  per  I'isola  de  Cipro,  per  la  Soria 
e  la  Palestina.  5  vol.  8vo.   Turin,  1769. 

i     In  French,  2  first  vols.  8vo.  Paris. 

In  English,  3  vols.  8vo.  1791. 

Volney,  Voyage  en  Syrie  et  en  Egypt,  pendant  les  annees 
1783,  1784,  et  1785,  troisieme  edition,  revue  and  corrigee  par 
I'auteur,  et  augmentee.  2  torn.  8vo.  1800. 

Chateaubriand,  Itineraire  de  Paris  a  Jerusalem.  2  torn. 
8vo.  Paris,  1812. 

CHAPTER  v.— Arabia. 

NiEBUHR  (Carsten)  Reisebeschreiburg  von  Arabien,  aiis 
elgenen  Beobachtungen,  und  in  Lande  selbst  gesammlten, 
Nachrichten.  4to.  Copenhagen,  1772. 

In  French.  4to.  Copenhagen,  1773.  And  at  Am- 
sterdam, (with  the  questions  of  Michaelis).  3  torn.  1776-80. 
This  last  edition  is  the  best. 

———In  English,  2  vols.  8vo.  1799;  also  in  Pinkerton's 
Collection. 


APPENDIX.  507 

Valentia's  (Lord)  Voyages  and  Travels  to  India,  Ceylon, 
Abyssinia,  the  Red  Sea,  and  Egypt.  3  vols.  4to.  London, 
1809. 

Seetzek,  In  Malte  Brun,  Annales   des  Voyages. 

Bahdia,  Travels  of  Ali  Bey.   2  vols.  4to.  London. 

^  La  Roque,  Voyage  dans  I'Arabie  Heureuse  par  I'oceaQ 
oriental  et  le  detroit  de  la  Mer  Rouge.    12mo.    Paris,  1716. 

Voyage  fait  par  ordre  du  Roi  Louis  XIV.  vers 

le  Grand  Emir,  Premier  chef  des  Arabes  du  desert.  12mo. 
Paris,  1717.  (This  volume  contains  d'Arvieux's  account  of 
the  manners  of  the  Bedouins). 


BOOK  V. 
CHAPTER  I Eastern  India. 

CiESAR  Frederic,  Travels  through  India.  In  the  edition 
1606  of  Ramusio,  and  a  translation  in  Purchas,  vol.  ii. 

Balbi  (Gasparo)  Viaggio  dell'  Indie  orieatali.  8vo.  Venice, 
1590.     In  Ramusio  and  Purchas. 

Symes  (Major  Samuel)  An  account  of  an  embassy  to  the* 
kingdom  of  Ava,  sent  by  the  governor-general  of  India  in  the 
year  1795.    4to.    London,  1800. 

Buchanan  (Dr  Francis)  On  the  religion  and  literature  of 
the  Hindoos.     Asiatic  Researches,  vol.  vi. 

Tachard  (P.)  Premier  Voyage  de  Siam  des  P.  P.  Jesoites 
envoyes  par  le  Roi  aux  Indes  et  a  la  Chine.  12mo.  Paris,  1686. 

Second  Voyage.  12mo.  Paris,  1689. 

Chaumont  (Chev.  de)  Relation  de  J'ambassade  a  la  cour 
de  Siam.  12mo.  Paris,  1687. 

LouBERE,  Description  du  royaume  de  Siam.  2  vols.  12mo. 
Amst.  1714-. 

Borri,  Christoforo,  Relazione  della  nova  missione  dei 
Padri  della  Compania  de  Jesu  nel  regno  de  Cocincina.  8vo, 
Roma,  16S1. 


508  APPENDIX. 

BoRRi  In  French.  8vo.  1631. 

In  English.  4to.  1633. 

Barrow,  John,  A  voyage  to  Cochin-china  in  the  years 
1792  and  1793,  containing  a  general  view  of  the  valuable  pro- 
ductions and  political  importance  of  that  flourishing  kingdom, 
&c.  4to.  London,  1806. 

In  French  by  Malta  Brun.   2  vols.   8vo.   Paris, 

1807. 

^  Hunter,  William  M.  A.  Conciseaccount  of  the  kingdom 
of  Pegu,  its  climate,  produce,  trade,  government,  and  inhabi- 
tants. 8vo.  London,  1785. 

TuRPiN,  Histoire  civile  et  naturelle  du  Royaume  de  Siam, 
et  des  revolutions  qui  ont  bouleverse  cet  empire  jusqu'en  1770. 
2  vols.  12mo.  1771. 

Chapman,  Voyage  to  Cochin-china  in  1778.  Asiatic  An- 
nual Register  1801. 

Richard  (Abbe)  Histoire  naturelle  et  civile  du  Tunkin.  2 
vols.  12mo.  Paris,  1788. 

CHAPTERS  IL  IIL  IV._China. 

The  Andradas  and  Pirez.  In  Di  Bar.ros  Decada  iii. 
lib.  vi. 

Mendoza,  (Juan  Gonzales  de)  Historia  de  las  cosas  mas 
notables,  ritos  y  costumbres  del  gran  reyno  de  la  China,  con  un 

itinerario  del  nuevo  Mondo.     Rome,  1585.     Venice,  1588 

•Mendoza's  description  is  drawn  up  from  the  report  of  the 
Augustines,  Franciscans,  and  St  Ignatius ;  and  he  has  append- 
ed a  narrative  of  their  adventures. 

Riccius  et  Trigautius,  De  Christiana  expeditione  apud 
Siuas,  suscepta  ab  societate  Jesu.  August.  Vind.  1615.  Lug- 
dun,  1616. 

in  French,  1617. 


Abridged  translation  in  Purchas,  vol.  ii. 

47 


APPENDIX.  509 

Navarete,  Tratados  historicos,  politicos,  &c.  de  la  monar- 
cTiia  de  China,    fol.    Madrid,  1676,  (rare). 

Dutch  transactions  and  embassies  in  Astley's  Collection, 
vol.  iii. 

NiEUHOFF,  John,  Embassy  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Com- 
pany to  the  Great  Tartar  Khan,  the  Emperor  of  China,  (in 
Dutch).  Amst.  1665. 

— — In  French,  fol.  Leyden,  1665. 

— — In  Astley's  and  Pinkerton's  Collections. 

A  relation  of  second  and  third  Embassies  from  the  East  In- 
dia Company  into  the  empire  of  China,  by  Arnoldus  Monta- 
nus  and  John  Ogilvy.  fol.  London,  1670.  Translated  from 
Dapper  in  Dutch,   fol.    Amst.  1670. 

Lecomte  (P.  Louis)  Nouveaiix  Memoires  sur  I'etat  present 
de  la  Chine.    2  vols.    12mo.    Paris,  1696,  1700,  1702. 

In  English.   8vo.    1697—98. 

Description  Geographique,  Historique,  Chronologique,  Poli- 
tique, et  Physique,  de  I'empire  de  Chine,  et  de  la  Tartaric 
Chinoise  ;  enrichie  des  cartes  generales  et  particulieres  de  ce 
pays.    4  vols,  folio.    Paris,  1735.     ■ito.  Hague.  1736. 

In   English,  under  the  title  of  General  History  of 

China,  Chinese  Tartary,  Corea  and  Thibet,  (with  some  addi- 
tions). 4  vols.  8vo.  1741. 

■  In  German.     Rostock.     4  vols.  4to.  1747. 

Lettres  Edifiantes  et  Curieuses  ecrites  des  missions  etran- 
geres.  26  tom.  i2mo.  Paris,  1780.  Tomes  17.  to  26.  relate  to 
China.  The  narratives  of  the  persecutions  are  given  in  tomes 
19.  23.  24. 

Memoiues  concernent  I'histoire,  les  sciences,  et  les  arts 
de  Chinois,  par  les  missionaires  de  Pekin,  (chiefly  P.  Annot). 
15  vols.  4to.    Paris,  1775,  &c. 

First  Russian  Embassies,  in  Purchas,  vol.  ii. 

IsBRAND  Ides.  Account  of  his  great  journey  to  China  in  the 
year  1692,  from  Moscow  through  Siberia,  Daouria,  and  Great 
Tartary.    By  Adam  Brand.  (In  German).  Franckfort,  1697. 


510  APPENDIX. 

IsBRAND  Ides,  In  French.    12mo.    Amst.  1699. 

Lange  (Sieur)  Journal  du  Voyage  de  Moscow,  a  Pefcin,  et 
de  sa  residence  a  la  cour  de  Chine,  in  1721  et  1722.  12mo. 
Ley  den,  1726. 

Bell  (John)  Travels.     See  above,  p.  493. 

Staunton  (Sir  George)  Authentic  account  of  the  em- 
bassy from  the  king  of  Great  Britain  to  the  Emperor  of  China, 
taken  chiefly  from  the  papers  of  Lord  Macartney,  Sir  Eras- 
mus Govver,  and  other  gentlemen,  in  the  several  departments 
of  the  embassy.  2  vols.  4to.   London,  1797.  ed.  in  3  vols.  8vo. 

• In  French,  by  Castera.    4  vols.  8vo.    Paris,  1798. 

Barrow  (John)  Travels  in  China,  containing  descriptions 
and  observations  made  and  collected  in  the  course  of  a  short 
visit  to  the  imperial  palace  of  Yuenmien,  and  a  subsequent 
journey  through  the  country  from  Peking  to  Canton  ;  wherein 
it  is  attempted  to  appreciate  the  rank  which  this  extraordinary 
empire  holds  in  the  scale  of  civilized  nations.  4to.  London, 
1804. 

'  In  French,  by  Castera.    3  vols.  8vo.  with  4to  atlas. 

Paris,  1805. 

In  German.    8vo.    Hamburgh,  1805. 

Ellis  (Henry)  Journal  of  the  proceedings  of  the  late  em- 
bassy to  China.  4to.  London,  1817.  2  vols.  8vo.  1818. 

Macleod,  N.  Narrative  of  a  voyage  in  his  Majesty's  ship 
Alceste  to  the  Yellow  Sea,  &c.    8vo.  1817. 

Hall  (Captain  Basil)  Account  of  a  Voyage  of  Discovery 
to  the  west  coast  of  Corea,  and  the  Great  Loochoo  island; 
with  an  appendix  containing  charts  and  various  hydrographic 
and  scientific  notices.    4to.    London,  1818;  12mo.  1819. 

Abel  (Dr  Clarke)  Journal  of  Travels  in  the  interior  of 
China,  and  of  a  voyage  to  and  from  that  country.  8vo.  London, 
1818. 

^  Semedo,  Relazione  della  grande  monarchia  della  China, 
Roma,  1643.  In  English,  fol.  London,  1655,  1670.  In  French, 
Lyons,  4to.  1667. 


APPENDIX.  511 

KiRCHER  (Athanasius)  China  monumentis  sacris  et  pro- 
fanis,  necnon  variis  naturae  et  artis  spectaculis  illustrata.  fol. 
Amst.  1670. 

Grozier,  Description  Generale  de  la  Chine.  4to.  Paris, 
1785.  2  vols.  8vo.  1787. 

« In  English,  2  vols.  8vo.  London,  1788. 

Bkaam  (Van.)  Proceedings  of  the  Dutch  embassy  to  China. 
2  vols.  8vo. 

De  Guignes.    Voyage.    3  torn.  8vo.  Paris. 

CHAPTER  v.— Japan. 

GusMAN,  Oriente  Conquistado,  and  Nieremberg,  see 
above,  p.  496. 

Account  of  the  embassies  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company 
to  the  Emperors  of  Japan  (in  Dutch),  fol.  Amsterdam,  1669. 

>  ■  In  English,  by  John  Ogilvy.   fol.  London,  1670. 

I  In  French.   Amsterdam,   fol.   1680. 

Kaempfer  (Engelbrecht).  The  History  of  Japan,  con- 
taining an  account  of  the  ancient  and  present  state  and  go- 
vernment of  that  empire,  translated  from  his  original  manu- 
script in  High  Dutch,  never  before  printed,  by  I.  G.  Scheuch- 
zer.  2  vols.  fol.  London,  1728. 

■  In  French.  2  toms.  fol.  Haye,  1729.  3  toms.  12mo. 
Amsterdam,  1732. 

..  Also  in  Pinkerton's  Collection. 

Thunberg  (K.  p.)  Travels  through  Europe,  Asia,  and 
Africa,  during  the  years  1770  to  1779  (in  Swedish).  4  vols. 
8vo.  Upsal,  1788 — 93.  The  two  last  volumes  relate  to  Ja- 
pan). 

■  '         In  English.  4  vols.  8vo.   London,  1794. 

■  In  French,  with  Notes  by  Langles  and  Lamarck.  2 
vols.  4to.  1796. 

Kauseksterk,   Voyage  round  the  World,  in  the  years 

1803  to  1806.   Russian  original.  3  vols.  4to.   with  folio  Atlas. 

— In  English,  by  Hopner.   2  vols.  4to.  London,  1813. 


512  APPENDIX. 

GoLOWNiN  (Captain)  Recollections  of  Japan.  English 
translation.   2  vols.  8vo.    1818. 

f  Caucj  (Fran.)  Description  of  Japan,  in  reply  to  diffe- 
rent questions  put  in  1636  by  Philip  Lucas  (in  Dutch).  Hague, 
4to. 

In  Thevenot,  Astley,  and  Pinkerton's  Collections. 

Charlevoix  (Pore)  Histoire  du  Japan.  3  toms.  4to.  Paris, 
1736;  also  in  6  toms.  12mo. 

BOOK  VI. 
CHAPTER  I. 

Engelmak,  Reise  von  den  nordlichen  Seite  des  Kaukasus 
bis  nach  Choy  in  Persien,  in  Jahr  1785,  (Pallas's  Neue  Nor- 
dische  Beytraege,  vol.  ii.) 

Pallas  (P.  S)  Bemerkungen  auf  einer  Reise  in  die  Sud- 
lichen  Statthalterschaften  des  Russischen  Reichs.  2  vols.  4to. 
1796,  1799. 

In  French,  2  vols.  ^to.  with  coloured  plates.  Leipsic, 

1799. 

■  In  English,  2  vols.  4to.     London,  1801. 

GuLDENSTEDT  (John  Antony)  Reisen  durch  Russland  und 
in  Caucasischen  Gehirge,  (edited  by  Pallas).  2  vols.  4to. 
Petersburgh,  1787,  1791. 

Klaproth,  .Julius  Henry,  Reise  in  den  Caucasus.  .3  vols.  Svo. 

In  English,  by  Schoberl.  4-to.     London. 

Reineggs,  Historical  and  Geographical  Description  of  the 
Caucasus.     English  translation,  2  vols.  8vo.    1807. 

Ellis,  Memoir  of  a  Map  of  the  countries  becween  the 
Black  Sea  and  the  Caspian.  4to.    London. 

CHAPTERS  IL  III.— Siberia. 

First  discovery  and  conquest,  in  the  latter  part  of  Coxe's 
History  of  Russian  Discoveries,  4to.  London,  1780;    and  in' 
Purchas,  vol.  ii. 


APPENDIX.  513 

Bell,  see  above,  page  493. 

Messerschmidt,  (Daniel  Gottlieb),  Nachricht  von  sieben- 
jahriges  Reise  in  Siberien,  (Pallas,  Neue  Nordische  Bey- 
trage,  vol.  iii.) 

Gmelin,  (Job.  George)  Reisen  durch  Sibirien  von  den 
Jahr   1743  bis  1733.  4  vols.  8vo.   Gottingen,  1751  and  1752. 

In   I^rench,   abridged  by   Keralio.     2  vols.  12mo. 

Paris,  1767.     Also  in  Histoire  Gen.  des  Voyages,  torn,  xviii. 

Pallas,  (P.  S.)  Reisen  durch  verschiedenen  provinzendes 
Russischen  Reichs  in  den  Jahren  1768  bis  1773.  3  vols.  4to. 
Petersburg,  1771,  1773,  1776. 

In  French,  5  toms.  4to.  with  fol.  Atlas.  Paris,  1788. 

Le  Meme,  avec  des  Notes,  par  Langles  et  Lamarch. 

8  toms.  8vo.   Paris,  1794. 

ScHANGiN,  (P.  J.)  Merkwurdige  Reise  in  den  hochsten 
Altaische  Gebirge,  (Pallas  Nordische  Beytrage,  vol.  vi.) 

SiEVERs,  Briefe  uber  Sibirien  (Ibid.  vol.  vii.) 

GiORGi,  (I.  G.)  Geographische,  Physicalische  and  Natur- 
historische,  Beschreiburg  von  den  Russischen  Reichs.  3  vols. 
4to.  Konigsberg,  1799—1801.9  vols.  8vo. 

^  Chappe  d'Auteroche,  (Abb^),  Voyage  en  Siberie, 
faite  par  ordre  du  Roi  en  1761,  contenant  les  moeurs,  les 
usages  des  Russes,  et  I'etat  actual  de  cettc  puissance,  la  de- 
scription geographique  et  le  nivellement  de  la  route  de  Pa- 
ris a  Tobolsk,  &c.    3  vols.  4to.  with  fol.  Atlas.  Paris,  1768. 

De  Lisle,  M.  Journal  d'un  Voyage  fait  en  1740  a  Beresow 
en  Siberie,  aux  depens  de  la  cour  imperiale.  (Hist  Gen.  des 
Voyages,  torn,  xviii.) 

Lepechin,  (Ivan)  Journal  of  Travels  through  different  pro- 
vinces of  the  Russian  empire,  made  between  the  year  1768  and 
1771  (in  Russian).    4to.    Petersburgh,  1771. 

In  German.    3  vols.  4to.  1774. 

GioRGi,  J.  G.  Bemerkungen  aufeiner  Reise  in  Russischen 
Reich  von  1772  bis  1774.    2  vols.  4to.    Petersburg. 

VOL.  III.  K  k 


INDEX. 


Abdoulrizack,  ambassaclor  from  the  court  of  Persia  to  that  of 
India,  sets  out  from  Herat,  arrives  at  Ormus,  account  ojf 
that  city,  ii.  19.  Of  Calicut  and  its  inhabitants;  reception 
from  the  king,  21.  Bisnagar,  description  of,  23.  Reception 
of  the  embassy  by  the  king,  24. 

Abulfeda,  his  description  of  the  cities  and  towns  in  the  district 
of  Mawarelnahar,  i.  54. 

Aden,  description  of,  i.  266.  Great  emporium  of  Arabia,  ii. 
33. 

Afghanistan,  country  of,  principal  river  in,  ii.  501.  Climate  of, 
502.  Prevailing  winds  in,  503.  Animals  in,  504.  Agricul- 
ture, 510.     Commerce  of,  511. 

Aga  of  Mocha,  cruelty  and  treachery  of  his  conduct,  i.  269. 

Agra,  ancient  capital  of  Aurengzebe,  its  present  ruinous  state, 
ii.  220. 

Alacananda,  one  of  the  tributary  streams  to  the  Ganges,  where 
the  junction  takes  place,  ii.  392. 

Albuquerque,  Antonio,  voyage  of,  between  Goa  and  Macao, 
difficulties  attending  his  journey  to  Madras,  i.  293.  Attacked 
by  a  party  of  mountaineers,  297.  Arrival  at  Velur,  and  by 
whom  received,  298.  Perilous  voyage  of,  to  China,  299. 
Dispute  between,  and  the  Dutch  governor  of  Malacca,  300. 
Arrival  at  Gior  (Johore),  account  of  that  kingdom,  301 .  Dan- 
ger to  which  he  was  exposed,  and  stratagem  employed  by, 
to  avert  the  evil,  302.  The  king's  agreement  to  his  demands, 
S04.     Sails  for  Macao,  305. 

Aleocke  sent  by  the  London  Company  for  the  purpose  of  open- 
ing up  a  commercial  intercourse  in  Asia;  fate  he  met  with  on 
his  way  to  Schamachie,  i.  331. 

Aleppo,  account  of,  i.  410. 

Alexander  the  Great,  history  of  his  exploits,  i.  10.  Invades  the 
Scythians,  H.    Crosses  the  Indus,  and  conquers  Porus,  13» 


516  IN'DEX. 

Sails  with  his  troops  down  the  Indus,  H.  Meets  with  a  vast 
desert  of  moving  sand,  16.  Sends  Nearchus  with  an  explo- 
ratory armament  round  the  south  of  Persia,  15.  Circum- 
stances in  India,  which  astonished  Alexander  and  his  officers, 
S^.  Desire  of,  to  see  and  converse  with  the  Bramins,  26. 
Followed  by  Calanus,  an  Indian  Bramin,  29.  Returns  to 
Babylon ;  his  death,  and  among  whom  his  empire  was  parti- 
tioned, 30. 

Algebra,  progress  of,  in  India,  ii.  310. 

Amadabad,  extent  of  this  capital  of  Guzerat,  its  market-place, 
ii.  174.  Its  woods,  manufactures,  and  trade,  175.  Its  go- 
vernment, ib. 

Amasia,  birth-place  of  Strabo,  situation  of,  iii.  178. 

Amherst,  Lord,  embassy  of,  from  Britain  to  China,  iii.  342. 
Ceremony  of  the  Kotou,  343.  Banquet  given  to,  at  Tien- 
sing,  344.  Difference  between,  and  the  emperor  of  China, 
347.  Departure  for  Canton,  and  treatment  on  the  journey, 
348. 

Andrada,  Antonio  d*,  mission  of,  from  India  to  Thibet ;  arrives  at 
Serinagur,  where  taken  for  a  Mogul  spy  ;  his  description  of 
that  territory,  i.  425.  The  Himmaleh,  its  steep  ascent,  427. 
Crosses  the  Ganges,  428.  Arrives  at  Bhadrinath,  its  inhabi- 
tants, 429.  Reaches  the  summit  of  the  Himmaleh,  432. 
Arrives  at  the  capital  of  Thibet,  433.  Interview  with  the 
king,  434.  State  of  Thibet,  435.  Grand  ceremony  per- 
formed in  this  place,  436. 

Angora,  capital  of  an  extensive  pachalic,  amount  of  its  inhabi- 
tants, iii.  173.     Character  of  the  pacha  there,  ib. 

Anna,  capital  of  the  desert,  description  of,  i.  405.  Infested  by 
robbers,  406. 

Antioch,  ruinous  state  of,  i.  421.  By  whom  taken  and  totally 
destroyed,  iii.  147. 

Ants,  large,  in  India,  said  to  dig  gold  out  of  the  earth,  i.  32. 

Arabia,  scientific  mission  to,  by  the  Danish  government,  in  1762, 
iii.  187.  Suez,  their  account  of,  and  employment  of  its  inha- 
bitants, ib.  Sana,  194.  Proverbial  character  of,  197.  Fe- 
male sex  in,  198.     Country  of,  how  divided,  199. 

Arabians,  learned,  favourite  pursuit  of,  i.  51.  Extensive  know- 
ledge of  the  eastern  parts  of  the  world,  52.  Their  account 
of  Mawarelnahar,  53.  Their  account  of  the  Tartars,  56. 
Their  narrative  of  the  coast  of  Malabar,  59. 

Arculfus,  his  account  of  Jerusalem  and  sacred  relics  there,  iii. 

;    107.     Of  Jericho,  Jordan,  Bethlehem,  Damascus,  108. 

Armenians,  ceremony  of  the  baptism  of,  iii.  50. 


INDEX.  517 

Arracan,  capital  of  the  monarchy  of  the  Mogas,  ii.  105.  Palace 
of,  in  what  its  chief  treasure  consists,  106.  Splendid  cere- 
mony performed  in  honour  of  a  queen  at,  107.  Superstitions, 
109.     Coronation  of  their  king  at.  111. 

Arrian,  his  abstract  of  the  voyage  of  Nearchus,  illustrated  by 
Dr  Vincent,  i.  17.  At  what  point  his  narrative  becomes  dim 
and  imperfect,  43. 

Ascelin,  mission  of,  to  the  Tartars,  i.  75.  Sentence  of  the  Tar- 
tar king  against,  79. 

Asia,  how  divided,  i.  4.  Period  when  Europeans  became  ac- 
quainted with,  9.  With  whom  the  exploration  of,  by  conquest, 
terminated,  33.  Rapid  and  lasting  revolution  in,  and  by  whom 
effected,  51.  What  districts  regarded  as  the  paradise  of,  52. 
Perfection  of  all  the  finer  arts  in,  during  the  eleventh  and 
twelfth  centuries,  152.  Greater  part  of,  traversed  by  a  Ger- 
man, 225.  Voyages  along  the  southern  coasts  of,  234.  As  a 
continent,  unknown  to  Homer,  471.  How  bounded,  according 
to  Herodotus,  472.  Extent  of,  according  to  Eratosthenes, 
473.  Correct  outline  of,  by  whom  restored,  494.  Sources 
by  which  new  ideas  on  the  geography  of,  could  be  derived  by 
the  Europeans,  494.  Minor  journeys  performed  through,  iii. 
171.  East  of,  by  whom  visited,  207.  North  of,  by  whom  in- 
habited, 414. 

Assanchiph,  town,  peculiar  state  of,  iii.  11. 

Astrabad,  town  of,  what  subject  first  presented  itself  in,  i.  362- 

Astrakhan,  emporium  of  the  Caspian,  description  of,  i.  309. 
Scene  of  a  dreadful  tragedy,  310.  Quantities  of  fish  here 
caught,  manner  of  drying  them,  335.  Astronomy  in  Hindos- 
tan,  its  progress,  for  what  purpose,  and  how  carried  on  in  that 
region,  ii.  311. 

Ava,  river  of,  represented  as  larger  than  the  Ganges,  ii.  12. 
City  of,  its  present  desolate  condition,  iii.  219.  Religion, 
227. 

Babylon,  ancient  ruins  of,  iii.  136.     Relics  of,  102. 

Bagdad,  its  inhabitants  and  dress,  i.  400.     Journey  to,  by  Nicolo 

Conti,  ii.  9. 
Bahawulpore,  town  of,  near  the  Hyphasis,  manufacture  in,  ii. 

492. 
Bakoui,  his  description  of  the  Chinese,  i.  60. 
Balahara,   dominion  of,  in  Indostan,  doubts  respecting  the  seat 

of  his  empire,  i.  59. 


518  INDEX. 

Banians  in  India,  manners  and  customs  of,  ii.  84<,  How  imposed 
upon  by  a  Portuguese  captain,  ib. 

Barbaro,  ambassador  of  the  Venetians  to  Persia,  iii.  10.  Singular 
entrance  to  the  city  of  Merdin,  ib.  Attacked  by  robbers, 
11.     Reaches  Tauris,  and  how  received  by  the  king,  13. 

Barthema,  Ludovico,  his  visit  to  India;  arrives  at  Cairo;  its  gran- 
deur exaggerated,  ii.  27.     His  account  of  the  flourishing  state 

-"'  of  Damascus ;  despotism  of  its  government,  ib.  Of  Medina, 
28.     Of    Mecca,    30.      Reaches    Aden,     the    emporium    of 

-  Arabia,  34'.  Conveyed  to  Radha,  brought  before  the  Sultan, 
and  ordered  to  be  thrown  in  prison,  ib.  Stratagem  employed 
by,  to  rescue  himself  from  captivity,  36.  Ormus  and  Cam- 
baia,  87.  His  account  of  the  Jogues,  and  number  of,  38.  Ar- 
rives at  Bisnagar,  capital  of  Narsinga;  its  beauty,  39.  Re- 
ligious system  prevalent  along  the  coast,  ib.  State  of  so- 
ciety, 40. 

Barygaza  Gulf,  description  of,  i.  40.     Town  of,  its  exports,  41. 
Bassora,  its  merchandise,  and  beauty  of  its  environs  ;  by  whom 

conquered,  and  by  whom  at  present  governed,  i.  395. 
Bayla,  town  and  chief  of,  ii.  517. 
Beckewitz,  Alexander,  despatched  by  Peter  the  Great,  with  an 

-  army,  to  the  river  Daria  in  quest  of  gold,  i.  344.  Erects  a  fort ; 
Usbeck  Tartars ;  all  butchered  by  the  Khan,  save  one,  345. 

Beloochistan,  capital  of,  ii.  519.  Face  of  the  country,  520.  In- 
habitants, 521. 

Benares,  the  Athens  of  India,  streets  and  edifices  in,  ii.  217. 
Sacrifice  of  an  Indian  widow  in,  218. 

Bernardino,  his  journey  overland  from  India  to  Portugal,  his  des- 
cription of  Ormus,  i.  382.  His  account  of  the  manner  in 
which  doves  are  made  to  act  the  part  of  couriers  in  the  East, 
383. 

Bengal,  its  fertility  ;  food  of  its  inhabitants  and  their  religion,  ii. 
100. 

Benjamin  of  Tudela,  his  account  of  Jerusalem,  i.  64.  Of  Old 
Tyrus,  ib.  Of  Damascus,  65.  Of  Bagdad  and  Ispahan,  66. 
Visits  Katipha  ;  its  pearl  fisheries,  67. 

Berenice,  centre  of  almost  all  the  Egyptian  navigation  on  the 
Red  Sea,  i.  35. 

Bethlehem,  magnificent  church  at,  iii.  123. 

Bhadrinath  shrine,  description  of,  ii.  402.  By  whom  resorted  to, 
ii.  403.     Permanent  revenues  of  this  temple,  ib. 

Bikaneer,  account  of,  ii.  490. 

Birraan  empire,  British  embassy  to ;  its  arrival  at  Rangoon,  iii. 
204.     How  received  at  Pegu  by  the  viceroy,  216-     Ceremony 


INDEX.  519 

on  the  Birman  year,  218.  Embassy  visits  Ummerapoora  ;  fer- 
tility of  this  empire,  225.  Difference  of,  from  the  Hindoos, 
226.  Government,  228.  Language,  229.  Law  respecting 
physicians  in,  231. 

Bithynia,  ancient,  present  state  of,  iii.  175. 

Boglipoor,  specimen  of  the  Banyan  tree  seen  at ;  beauty  of  its  en- 
virons, ii.  2I4'. 

Bochara,  as  described  by  Jenkinson,  to  whom  fortnerly  subject, 
i.  319.     Its  king,  320. 

Bootan,  people  of,  embassy  of,  to  Calcutta  ;  interviev>'  with  the 
British,  ii.  44^5. 

Bramins,  their  unbounded  influence  over  the  Indians,  ii.  73. 
Pre-eminence  to  all  other  casts,  324'.  Subsistence  of,  how  pro- 
cured, 325.  Different  classes  of,  326.  Their  respective  qua- 
lifications, 328. 

Bridges,  description  of,  ii.  4'4'9. 

Britain,  period  of  the  commencement  of  commercial  enterprise 
in,  i.  306. 

Bruce,  Peter,  employed  by  Peter  the  Great,  to  make  a  survey  of 
the  Caspian,  i.  348. 

Bruton,  William,  his  narrative  of  an  English  mission  to  the  na- 
bob of  Cuttack,  ii.  159.  History  of  iVIalcanda  ;  seat  of  the 
court,  161.  Mission  introduced  to  the  king;  ceremonies  to  be 
performed  on  this  occasion,  162.  Treaty  agreed  with,  164. 
Visits  the  temple  of  Jaggernaut,  165. 

Buchanan,  Dr  Claudius,  visits  the  Syriac  Christians  in  India ; 
account  of  their  temples,  and  service  performed  in,  ii.  352.  Pre- 
sents them  with  a  printed  Bible,  353.  A  colony  of  Jews  seen 
by,  near  Cochin,  ib.  Receives  an  ancient  Hebrew  manuscript 
from  them,  354. 

Cachemire,  accounted  the  garden  of  India,  ii.  96.  Favourite 
retreat  of  the  Mogul  princes,  200.  Character  of  the  people 
of,  201.  Tricks  of  the  Moullahs,  201.  Regular  productions 
and  manufactures  of,  483. 

Cairo,  grandeur  of  that  city  exaggerated,  ii.  27. 

Caianus,  an  Indian  Bramin,  reply  of,  to  Onesicrotus,  i.  27.  Fol- 
lows the  Grecian  army,  and  death  of,  29. 

Calcutta,  description  of,  ii.  211. 

Calicut,  produce  of;  religion  of  the  people,  ii.  16.  Variety  oT 
its  inhabitants  according  to  Barthema,  39. 

Caliphs,  first,  their  character,  i.  51. 

Calmarin,  supposed  to  be  the  first  city  founded  after  the  flood, 
i,  209. 


520  INDEX, 

Calvary,  church  on,  as  described  by  Dr  Clarke,  iii.  169. 

Cambria,  history  of,  character  of  its  inhabitants  ;  appearance  and 
manners  of  its  prince,  ii.  37. 

Camel  bit  by  a  serpent,  torture  endured  by,  i.  47- 

Campbell,  Donald,  his  account  of  Aleppo,  i.  410.  Relation  of 
Turkish  manners,  413.  Of  Diarbekir ;  miserable  lot  of  the 
females  there,  416. 

Caravans,  journey  of,  from  Byzantium  to  China,  i.  47. 

Cabral,  Alvarez,  how  Brazil  discovered  by,  ii.  57.  Reaches  the 
port  of  Calicut,  and  reception  of,  from  the  Zamorin,  59. 

Carpini  and  his  companions,  mission  of,  by  way  of  Northern 
Europe  to  the  Tartar  army,  i.  84.  Arrives  at  Canou,  85. 
Reaches  Corrensa,  86.  Sent  to  Duke  Bathy,  and  ceremo- 
ny to  be  performed  previous  to  admission,  87.  Conveyed 
to  the  imperial  court  of  Cuyne  Khan ;  separated  from  each 
other,  88.  Hardships  which  they  underwent,  89.  Occa- 
sion when  they  arrived,  99.  Intelligence  from  the  emperor 
communicated  to  the  mission,  94.  Their  want  of  food,  95. 
The  Khan's  design  to  send  an  embassy  to  the  pope,  96.  Sub- 
jection of  the  Tartars  to  the  emperor,  99.  Their  military  sys- 
tem, 100.  History  of  the  genealogy  of  Zingis,  101.  Fabu- 
lous accounts  concerning,  103. 

Casbin  city,  its  trade,  i.  332. 

Cashan,  bull  fight  at,  iii.  39. 

Caubul  city,  ii.4S7.  Mountains  and  rivers  of,  500.  Government, 
504.     Tribes  of,  512. 

Caucasus,  mountains  of,  iii.  402.  Leading  nation  of,  406.  Tribes 
inhabiting,  412.     Variety  of  their  languages,  413. 

China,  by  what  names  known  to  the  Arabs,  i.  4.  How  described 
by  that  people  in  the  ninth  century,  61.  Fourth  son  of  Timur, 
his  embassy  to  that  court,  223.  Invasion  and  conquest  of,  by 
an  army  of  Tartars,  255.  Difficulties  of  passing  between  and 
India,  424.  Account  of  part  of  the  wall  of,  460.  Fatal  expe- 
dition to  by  Sir  Robert  Dudley,  in  1596,  ii.  121.  Embassies  to 
from  Portugal,  and  that  nation  excluded  from  its  ports  and 
seas,  iii.  367.  Augustine,  Friars'  mission  to,  274.  Francis- 
cans set  out  to,  279.  Mission  of  the  Jesuits  to,  and  how  re- 
ceived, 286.  Embassy  of  the  Dutch  to,  298.  French  em- 
bassy to,  and  favour  shewn  to  by  the  king  of,  308.  Period 
when  Christianity  was  legally  permitted  throughout  the  em- 
pire, 309.  To  whom  indebted  for  the  history  of,  310.  Chris- 
tianity entirely  prohibited  in,  312.  Russian  embassy  to,  315. 
Their  account  of  Catay,  317.  British  embassy  to,  320.  Form 
of  the  vessels  of  that  people,  328.    Ladies  of,  330.   Houses  of, 


INDEX.  521 

S32.  How  the  British  embassy  was  received  by  the  emperor 
of,  335.  Hang-tchoufou,  town  in,  340.  Population  of,  356. 
Comparison  of  the  Hindoos  with,  357.  High  place  assigned 
to  learning  in,  360.  Language,  number  of  characters  in,  361. 
Prevalent  customs  in,  363.     Character  of  the  natives  of,  364'. 

Circassia,  leading  nation  of  Caucasus,  iii.  406.  Distinctions  of 
rank  among  that  people,  408.  Beauty  of  the  fair  sex  in,  409. 
Unequal  marriages,  how  punished  in,  410.  Education  of  the 
offspring  of  princes,  to  whom  intrusted,  411. 

Clarke,  Dr,  his  voyage  to  Asia,  iii.  460.  Visit  to  the  plain  of 
Troy  :  coincidence  between  the  present  names  and  those  re- 
corded in  Homer,  161.  Inspects  the  sources  of  the  Scaman- 
der,  163.  Lands  at  Acre  ;  by  whom  then  possessed,  164. 
His  interview  with  Djezzar,  165.  Visits  Nazareth  and  the 
lake  Tiberias;  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  167.  Enters  Jerusa- 
lem, and  by  whom  welcomed,  168.  Population  of  Jerusalem 
and  manufactures  in,  171. 

Clavijo,  at  the  head  of  a  Spanisli  embassy  to  the  court  of  Timur ; 
account  of  his  journey,  i.  104.  His  description  of  Constanti- 
nople and  holy  relics  there,  205.  Arrives  at  Trebisond,  207- 
His  narrative  of  the  war  between  Timur  and  Bajazet ;  its 
causes,  208.  Reaches  Tauris,  209.  Passes  by  Sultania,  210. 
Damagan  remarkable  for  two  towers  formed  of  human  heads, 
211.  Jagaro,  remarkable  for  its  waters,  212.  Comes  to 
Nishapoor,  capital  of  Media,  213.  Account  of  the  Oxus,  its 
breadth,  and  by  what  means  crossed,  214.  Description  of  the. 
iron  gate,  215.  Introduced  to  Timur,  216.  Entertainment 
by  the  king,  218.     Return  to  Spain,  224. 

Cochin-china,  fertility  of,  iii.  249.  Elephants  of,  250.  Its  har- 
bours, 251.  Manners  and  behaviour  of  the  people,  ib. 
Reigning  monarch  in,  256.  Inhabitants,  257.  Religion  of, 
259. 

Comar,  account  of,  i.  43. 

Commerce,  at  what  period  it  commenced  in  Asia,  i.  33.  In 
whose  hands  it  was  at  its  first  revival  in  Europe,  153.  Period 
of  its  commencement  in  Britain,  306. 

Constantinople,  narrative  of,  and  sacred  relics  there,  i.  205. 

Conti,  Nicolo,  journey  of,  to  Bagdad,  ii.  9.  Thence  to  Bisna- 
gar,  capital  of  Narsinga,  10.  Report  of  a  nation  of  cannibals 
inhabiting  the  district  called  Batech,  11.  Cernovem,  a  town 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Ganges,  12.  Hindoo  customs,  13.  Burn- 
ing of  their  widows  at  the  death  of  their  husbands,  and  splen- 
dour of  their  marriages,  14. 

Coromandel  coa,st,  Arrian's  account  of,  i.  44. 


.522  INDEX. 

Cossacks,  by  whom  defeated,  iii.  420.  Additions  made  to  the 
Russian  emj)ire  by,  'tSS. 

Cubero,  Pedro,  a  Spaniard,  sets  out  from  Moscow  with  a  Russian 
ambassador;  by  what  people  he  found  the  shores  of  the  Volga 
inhabited,  i.  334.  Account  of  the  Kalmucks,  335.  Sets  sail 
on  the  Caspian,  ib.  Chama-Ke,  description  of  that  city,  336. 
Ordivil,  337.  Reaches  Casmin,  residence  of  the  Sophi,  338. 
Description  of  the  palace,  and  how  received  by  the  monarch, 
339.  Invited  to  a  splendid  feast,  340.  Arrives  at  Goa,  capi- 
tal of  Portuguese  India,  342.  Dispute  with  the  Moors  re- 
specting Mahomet,  ib.     Goes  to  Malacca,  343. 

Cyprus,  ancient  inhabitants  of,  iii.  129. 

Daba,  town  of  Thibet,  its  situation,  ii.  414.  Form  of  its  tem- 
ples, 415. 

Damascus,  history  of,  and  its  government,  ii.  27.  By  whom  de- 
stroyed in  1400,  115.  Arrival  of  a  caravan  in,  116.  Still 
great  and  flourishing  ;  number  of  Christians  in,  iii.  146. 

Danes,  deterred  by  the  Tartar  invasion  from  setting  out  for  the 
herring  fishery  on  the  coast  of  Scotland,  i.  73. 

Darius,  account  of  his  conquest  of  India,  i.  7.  Overthrown  by 
the  Scythians,  8. 

Dervises,  dress  and  food  of,  iii.  141. 

Dead  Sea,  description  of,  iii.  124. 

Desert,  Great,  description  of,  ii.  522. 

Desideri,  a  missionary,  sets  out  in  1714  from  Goa  for  Thibet ; 
arrives  at  Delhi;  by  whom  there  joined,  i.  441.  Arrives  at 
the  foot  of  the  chain  of  mountains  called  Caucasus  ;  hardships 
he  endured  in  passing  these  ;  manner  in  which  he  crossed 
rivers;   reaches    the    highest    pinnacle    named  Pir  Pangial, 

441.  Sets  out  for  Ladak ;  frightful  nature  of  the  country, 

442.  History  of  that  country  ;  by  whom  governed  ;  its  houses ; 
and  priests,  443.  Dragged  before  the  tribunals  at  La3sa> 
445. 

Diamonds,  mines  of,  where  situated  in  India,  ii.  203  ;  and  how 
separated,  ib.  Wages  of  the  miners  ;  not  allowed  to  wear  any 
dress  except  a  small  cloth  while  so  employed,  ib.  By  whom 
this  traffic  is  carried  on,  205.  Mine  in  Couleur,  how  dis- 
covered ;  number  of  persons  employed  at,  206.  Diamonds 
in  a  river,  ib.  Mogul  diamonds,  207.  Diamond  presented 
by  an  Indian  Prince  to  Schah  Jehan,  father  of  Aurengzebe, 
208. 

Dshiggetei,  or  wild  horse,  description  of,  iii.  470. 

Dutch,  engrossed  a  large  share  of  the  comtnerc6  of  Bengal  in 


INDEX.  523 

the  seventeenth  century ;  and  where  their  principal  factory- 
was  situated,  ii.  168. 

Edrisi,  his  narrative  of  a  mission  sent  by  one  of  the  caliphs  to 
explore  the  country  said  to  be  inhabited  by  Gog  and  Magog, 
i.  57.  His  account  of  the  conduct  of  an  Indian  creditor  to  his 
debtor,  59. 

Egypt,  its  commercial  greatness,  i.  84.  Vessels  sailed  from  to 
India  ;  course  they  steered,  35.  Names  of  places  where  her 
merchants  traded,  39.     Pyramids  of,  iii.  121. 

El  Belka,  ancient  seat  of  the  Amorites  ;  present  deserted  state 
of,  iii.  182. 

EI  Botthin,  district  of,  houses  hewn  from  the  rock,  iii.  181. 

Elsoi,  David,  singular  story  of,  i.  166. 

Elton,  John,  employed  by  the  Russian  government  to  survey  it3 
eastern  frontier  ;  differs  with  the  government,  and  quits  its  ser- 
vice, i.  34'8.  Forms  a  connexion  at  St  Petersburg  with  a 
Scotsman  ;  they  unite  their  stocks,  and  make  up  a  small  as- 
sortment of  goods  for  the  market  of  interior  Asia,  349.  Diffi- 
culties attending  their  journey  to  Astrakhan,  ib.  How  de- 
ceived by  the  Armenian  merchants,  350.  Reception  by  the 
Vizier,  ib.  Presents  a  memorial  to  the  British  minister  at  St 
Petersburg,  shewing  the  immense  benefit  which  might  result 
to  the  British  nation  from  a  commercial  intercourse  with  Per- 
sia, and  how  this  intelligence  was  received  in  England,  351. 
Proceeds  with  large  consignments  to  Astrakhan  in  a  vessel 
navigated  by  Captain  Woodroofe  ;  sails  across  the  Caspian, 
and  carried  to  Meschedizar ;  agrees  to  carry  rice  to  Derbend; 
cruel  treatment  of  the  Captain  by  the  chief,  352.  Elton's 
arrival  from  the  Persian  camp  ;  employed  by  Nadir  to  destroy 
pirates,  and  to  augment  the  Persian  navy,  353.  Jealousy  of 
the  Russian  merchants ;  representation  of  his  proceedings  to 
the  ministry  of  St  Petersburg,  354.  Steps  taken  by  the  Eng- 
lish on  that  occasion,  355.  Pays  the  penalty  of  his  royal  con- 
nexion with  his  life,  364. 

Embassies,  British,  to  the  Great  Mogul. — Mildenhall,  ii.  120i 
Hawkins,  126.     Roe,  137. 

Empire,  Persian,  how  known  to  Europe,  i.  5. 

Ephesus,  city  of,  remains  of  its  ancient  structures,  iii.  \Sl. 

Eratosthenes,  keeper  of  the  library  of  Ptolemy  Philadeiphus  at 
Alexandria  ;  under  him  geography  began  to  assume  a  regular 
form,  i.  473.  His  opinions  with  regard  to  the  extent  of  Asia, 
474.  Where  he  places  Thinae,  476.  By  what  geographer 
succeeded,  481. 


524  INDEX. 

Erivan,  notice  of,  iii.  65. 

Eudoxus,  the  first  who  sailed  from  Egypt  to  India,  i.  Si.     Ac- 
count of  the  course  he  steered,  35. 
Euphrates,  river,  account  of,  iii.  135. 

Eraser,  Mr  James  Baillie,  his  visit  to  the  loftiest  parts  of  Him- 
maleh,  ii.  440. 

Ganges,  river  in  India,  pilgrimage  by  the  Hindoos  to,  ii.  93. 
Worship  paid  to  it,  100.  Views  entertained  relative  to  its 
source,  383.  Views  of  ancient  and  modern  geographers  of 
the  source  of,  384.  Separates  itself  into  three  branches  at 
Haridwar,  385.     Cow's  mouth,  account  of,  397. 

Gaza,  city  of,  iii.  122. 

Gentoos,  superstitious  observances  of,  i.  388.  Their  festival  of 
the  areca  tree  ;   description  of,  ii.  88. 

Georgians,  manners  of,  iii.  63. 

Gerbillon,  a  French  missionary,  his  travels  in  the  interior  of 
Asia,  i.  459.  His  account  of  part  of  the  wall  of  China,  460. 
Sees  a  Lama  ;  how  this  counterfeit  immortal  conducted  him- 
self, 461.  Whom  he  met  in  these  dreary  regions,  462.  Coun- 
try of  the  Kalkas,  463.  His  excursions  into  Tartary,  ib. 
Account  of  the  Eluths,  464. 

Ghizni,  city,  its  ruinous  state,  ii.  488. 

Godinho,  a  Jesuit,  undertakes,  in  1668,  a  journey  by  land  from 
India  to  Portugal ;  sets  out  from  Bassein,  and  proceeding  by 
Damaun  to  Surat,  his  description  of,  i.  386.  Account  of  the 
Jogues,  387.  Sets  sail  with  a  Moorish  captain  or  Necoda ; 
Superstitions  of  the  Gentoos,  388.  Similar  superstitions  of 
the  Necoda,  389.  Dreadful  tempest  proposed  to  be  allayed 
by  the  Gentoos,  but  without  effect,  391.  Lands  at  Gom- 
broon ;  account  of  that  city,  393.  Account  of  the  remains  of 
Ormus,  394.  His  narrative  of  Bassora,  395.  Sets  out  by 
land  for  Bagdad  ;  dreadful  situation  from  want  of  water  on 
their  journey,  397.  At  length  arrive  at  Meshed  Ali,  the 
burying  place  of  the  titular  saint  of  the  Persians,  399. 
Reaches  Bagdad,  which  he  mistakes  for  the  ancient  Babylon, 
400.  After  encountering  various  dangers  through  the  desert, 
reaches  Anna,  a  large  town,  405.  With  difficulty  reaches 
Aleppo,  whence  he  sails  to  Lisbon,  408. 

Goez,  Benedict,  directed  by  the  consistory  at  Goa  to  penetrate 
into  the  country  of  Cathay,  i.  450.  Informed  of  a  city  called 
Caffrestan,  inhabited  by  Pagans,  into  which  no  Mahometan 
was  allowed  to  enter  on  pain  of  death  ;  encounters  robbers  ; 


INDEX.  525 

'  arrival  at  Caubul.  451.  Description  of  that  city,  and  his  meet- 
ing with  a  princess  of  high  rank  there,  452.  Proceeds  to 
Cashgan  ;  number  of  days  they  took  in  going  to  Talkan,  453. 
Encounter  with  rebels,  ib.  Reaches  Yarkund,  the  court  of 
the  king  of  Cashgar  ;  history  of  the  territory,  455.  Danger 
in  consequence  of  his  Christian  profession,  ib.  Sent  for  by 
the  king  of  Cashgar,  456.  Travels  to  Acsu,  a  dependency  of 
Cashgar,  456.  His  conference  with  the  Mahometan  doctors, 
457.  His  opinion  with  regard  to  Cathay  and  China  being  one 
and  the  same  country,  458.  Unable  to  obtain  permission  to 
proceed  to  Pekin  ;  his  death,  459. 

Golden  Chersonese,  account  of,  i.  44.  M.  Gosselin,  his  account 
of,  45. 

Gombroon,  on  the  Persian  Gulf,  description  of,  i.  393. 

Gorkhalis,  what  country  invaded  by,  and  defeated,  ii.  470.  What 
territories  have  been  subjected  by,  479. 

Gosseins,  account  of,  386.  Attacked  by  the  Seiks,  and  massa- 
cred at  Haridwar,  ii.  387. 

Gosselin,  M.  his  opinion  with  regard  to  the  situation  of  the 
Golden  Chersonese,  i.  44.  Conjectures  of,  respecting  the 
coast  of  Siam,  i.  45. 

Graaf,  a  Dutch  physician,  his  account  of  the  beauty  of  Monghir, 
ii.  168.  Confined  in  a  dungeon  at  this  place,  169.  Liberation 
of,  171.     His  account  of  Patna,  172. 

Grantham,  Sir  Thomas,  despatched  with  a  squadron  to  attack 
the  Dutch  settlements  in  the  East  Indies  ;  sails  direct  for  Ba- 
tavia ;  reaches  the  eastern  extremity  of  Java;  takes  possession 

.  of  Hippin's  Island  in  name  of  the  East  India  Company,  i. 
287.  Sails  for  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  touches  at  Muscat,  289. 
and  Surat,  ii.  292. 

Grueber,  a  Jesuit  father,  journey  of  from  Pekin  to  Siningfu;  its 
extent  and  situation,  i.  436.  Kalmuck  Tartars  in  the  desert, 
his  account  of,  437.  Arrives  at  Lassa,  history  of  the  idola- 
trous worship  of  its  inhabitants,  43S.  Comes  to  the  foot  of 
the  Langur ;  description  of  that  mountainous  region,  439. 
Reaches  Kathmandu,  capital  of  Nepal ;  condition  of  the  fair 
sex  in  that  city,  440.  Time  spent  in  travelling  from  Pekin  to 
Agra,  441. 

Gylongs,  mode  of  their  worship,  ii.  464.     Their  residence,  465. 

Hall,  Captain  Basil,  group  of  islands  discovered  by,  on  the 
coast  of  the  Corea ;  manners  of  the  people,  and  account  of 
their  chief,  iii.  350.  His  account  of  the  island  of  Loo-Choo, 
352.  .  And  its  inhabitants,  355. 

Hamilton,  Dr,  his  calculation  of  the  mean  height  of  Nepal,  ii. 


526  INDEX. 

473.  His  account  of  the  crops  In  Nepal,  474.  Desire  of,  to 
bring  away  specimens  of  the  natural  history  of  that  country 
prevented,  4-76. 

Han  way,  Jonas,  sets  out  from  Petersburg  in  H^S,  with  a  cara- 
van of  goods  for  the  Persian  market,  and  embarks  on  the  Volga 
at  Zaritzin  ;  narrative  of  the  pirates,  and  their  punishment,  i. 
355.  Arrives  at  Astrakhan  ;  sails  across  the  Caspian  to  Lan- 
garood-bay ;  from  thence  to  Astrabad,  and  critical  situation 
in  which  he  is  placed  by  the  treachery  of  Mahommed  Hassan, 
a  chief,  357.  Arrives  with  difficulty  at  Balfrush,  the  capital 
of  Mazanderan,  359.  Reaches  Langarood,  where  he  is  kindly 
received  by  Elton,  360.  Sets  out  for  the  camp  of  the  Shah, 
expecting  compensation  for  the  loss  of  his  goods ;  revisits 
Astrabad  ;  objects  which  attracted  his  notice ;  in  what  employ- 
ment he  found  Behaud  Khan,  the  minister,  362.  Receives  re- 
imbursement for  his  goods,  363. 

Hardwicke,  Captain,  route  of,  to  the  high  northern  regions  of 
India ;  reaches  Haridwar  on  the  Ganges  ;  interesting  account 
of,  ii.  385.  Journey  of,  to  Serinagur ;  torrents  noticed  by  on 
his  march,  and  fish  how  they  are  there  taken,  389.  Serinagur, 
Raja  of,  390. 

Haridwar,  a  town  on  the  Ganges  ;  duodecennial  festival  there  ; 
immense  concourse  of  natives,  ii.  393. 

Hawkins,  Richard,  voyage  of,  to  the  Great  Mogul,  in  1608 ; 
arrives  at  Surat,  ii.  126.  Injuries  he  receives  there,  128. 
Journey  to  the  Mogul,  130.  How  received  by  the  King,  131. 
Admitted  to  a  private  audience,  and  high  favour  at  court,  132. 
Excites  the  animosity  of  the  Jesuits  and  Portuguese,  133. 
Marries  an  Armenian  lady,  134-.  How  treated  by  the  Vizier, 
136.     Returns  unsuccessful  to  England  in  1611,  137. 

Heliopolis,  ancient  ruins  of  a  temple  dedicated  to  the  sun,  iii.  152. 
By  whom  said  to  be  founded,  153. 

Herodotus,  his  account  of  India,  i.  7.     Of  the  Massagetae,  9. 

Himmaleh  mountains,  to  the  north  of  India,  covered  with  eternal 
snow,  i.  424.  Description  of,  by  Moorcroft,  ii.  406.  How 
known  to  the  ancients,  427.  Observations  of  British  officers, 
respecting  the  height  of,  430.  Uncertainty  of  their  calcu- 
lations, 432.  Central  and  loftiest  part  of,  and  its  extent, 
440.  Its  direction  and  ranges ;  different  names  it  receives, 
441. 

Hindoos,  religion  of,  ii.  222-  Their  deep  veneration  for  ances- 
try, and  bigotted  adherence  to  cast,  224.  Difficulties  of 
their  becoming  converts  to  Christianity,  225.  By  M'hom 
first  visited,  and  opinion  formed  by  their  visitors,  312.     First 


INDEX.  527 

impressions  made  upon  Europeans,  in  viewing  this  great 
people,  313.  Change  of  that  favourable  impression,  and  to 
what  to  be  ascribed,  314'.  Moral  character  of,  their  love  of 
money,  and  confirmed  dishonesty,  317.  Decoitj/,  system  of, 
transmitted  from  father  to  son;  manner  in  which  this  is  prac- 
tised, 318.  Marriage  of,  universal  veneration  in  which  the 
husband  is  to  be  held  by  the  wife,  321.  Wife  never  per- 
p^itted  to  marry  a  second  time,  while  no  restrictions  are  placed 
on  the  husband,  322.  Intercourse  of  the  sexes,  323. 
Divided  into  casts ;  number  of,  324.  Danger  of  losing  their 
casts,  and  privations  they  are  doomed  to  undergo,  330. 
Outcast  class  termed  Pariahs,  and  reported  amount  of,  331. 
Vices  into  which  they  frequently  fall,  ib.  Mahrattas,  a  de- 
tached race,  their  place  in  Hindoo  society,  original  seat  of, 
334.  Pindarees,  history  of,  339.  Seiks,  346.  Nairs,  349. 
Ilindostan,  its  boundaries,  ii.  229.  Its  situation,  its  rivers,  228. 
Its  mountains,  general  aspect  of  the  country,  229.  Agricul- 
ture of,  230.  Obstacles  to  improvement  in,  231.  Staple  arti- 
cle of  culture  and  food  in,  232.  Cause  of  famine  in,  233. 
Narrative  of  a  dreadful  famine  in,  234.  Natural  products  of, 
23^..  Sugar,  opium,  cotton,  silk,  tobacco,  indigo,  pepper, 
?37.  Areca  nut,  betel  leaf,  and  salt-petre,  238.  Variety  of 
its  woods,  I'A.  Calculation  of  the  agricultural  prouvtce,  and  its 
appended  provinces,  239.  Manufactures  of,  240.  Difference 
between  the  native  and  European  weaver,  241.  Districts  of, 
distinguished  for  manufacturing  particular  goods,  242.  Popu- 
lation and  political  state  of,  243.  Religion  of,  its  striking  si- 
milarity to  that  of  the  Grecian  schools  of  Pythagoras  and  Pla- 
to, 247.  Their  lofty  ideas  of  the  supreme  mind,  248.  Hin- 
doo Triad,  with  their  names  and  offices,  249.  Brahma,  350. 
Vishnu,  351.  Siva,  the  destroyer,  account  of,  255.  Minor 
deities,  and  how  represented,  257.  Female  powers,  258. 
Doorga,  259.  A  rebel  race  of  deities,  261.  Earthly  deities, 
262.  Ganges  how,  and  why  worshipped,  263.  Cow  worship- 
ped by,  264.  Certain  birds  and  fishes,  ib.  Mythology  of, 
with  regard  to  a  future  state,  265.  Belief  of,  in  the  transmi- 
gration of  souls,  267.  Future  punishments,  and  by  whom  the 
sentence  pronounced,  268.  Actions  which  influence  their  fu- 
ture destinies,  269.  Temples,  by  whom  built  and  supported; 
no  place  regarded  habitable  without  one,  270.  Images,  of  what 
formed,  their  weight,  and  manner  in  which  life  is  infused  into 
Uiem,  271.  Servants  in  these  temples,  272.  Ceremonies 
through  which  a  Bramin  is  to  pass  in  a  single  day,  273.  Ee- 
iigious  festivals  in  honour  of  their  god,  275.      Their  penancep. 


528  INDEX, 

instances  of,  277.  Regard  paid  to  these  devotees,  278.  Re- 
ligious suicide  inculcated ;  the  woman  devoting  herself  on  the 
funeral  pile  of  the  husband,  inducements  and  preparations  for, 

279.  Instances  of  throwing  themselves  between  the  wheels  of 
different  deities,  particularly  of  Jaggernaut ;  drown  themselves 
in  those  parts  of  the  Ganges  which  are  regarded  most  holy, 

280.  Infanticide,  281.  Number  annually  sacrificed,  zi.  How 
prevented  by  the  British  government,  282.  Estimate  of  peo- 
ple who  perish  annually  in  these  regions,  under  the  influence 
of  superstition,  ib.  Most  numerous  sects  in,  and  how  distin- 
guished, 283.  Secret  associations,  285.  Boodhism  long  the 
predominant  sect  of  India,  how  obliterated;  their  belief,  objects 
of  their  worship,  286.  Other  sects,  Jains,  288.  Seiks,  by 
whom  founded,  ib.  Literature,  object  of,  289.  Most  ancient 
of  their  writings,  whose  production,  how  lost,  and  afterwards 
restored ;  forbidden  to  be  perused  by  any  but  the  Braminical 
race,  290.  Specimens  of,  in  the  eighth  volume  of  the  Transac- 
tions of  the  Asiatic  Society,  ib.  Basis  of  the  Vedas,  of  what  it 
consists,  291.  In  what  chiefly  written,  292.  Comments  ap- 
pended to  it,  293.  Book  that  ranks  second  in  respect  with  the 
Vedas,  its  contents,  295.  Epic  poems,  what  they  treat  of,  295. 
Rama3'^ana,  Indian  romance,  history  of,  297.  History  of  the 
churning  of  the  Ocean,  301.  Amatory  poems,  305.  Dramatic 
poems,  306.  Their  total  ignorance  of  history,  308.  Their 
ignorance  of  chronology,  ib.  Mathematical  sciences;  their 
progress  in  Algebra  ;  knowledge  of,  and  from  whom  thought  to 
be  borrowed,  310.  Astronomy,  their  progress  in,  how  and  for 
what  purpose  this  science  is  prosecuted  in  Hindostan,  ib. 

Holy  Land,  by  what  travellers  visited,  iii.  107 — 109,  Ml. 
Horeb,  Mount  of,  and  Sinai,  account  of  the  ascent  to,  iii.  119. 
Hyrcar,  country  of,  modern  name  of,  where  situated,  and  former 
greatness  of,  326. 

IcHTHYOPHAGi,  history  of,  i.  19.  Of  what  their  nets  are  com- 
posed, 20. 

Iconiura,  ancient,  modern  name  of,  and  its  ruinous  state ;  popu- 
lation, iii.  177. 

India,  by  whom  first  attempted  to  be  conquered,  i.  6.  Voyage 
to,  undertaken  by  the  Egyptians,  34.  Tribute  paid  by,  to 
the  Greek  dynasty  of  the  Seleucidae,  ^i.  Devotees  describ- 
ed by  the  Arabs,  62.  Difficulty  of  passing  between,  and  Chi- 
na, 4'24.  By  what  Europeans  it  was  first  discovered  and 
conquered,  ii.  43.  State  of  learning  in,  193.  Political  state 
of  the  south  of,  221.  Its  dimensions  and  population,  iii. 
207. 


INDEX.  529 

India,  British,  foundation  of,  ii.  356.  Causes  which  confirm  the 
tenure  of  this  empire,  357.  Military  force  in,  359.  Latent 
religious  prejudices  against  the  British,  360.  Civil  administra- 
tion in,  361.  A  ne\\'  constitution  established  in,  by  Lord 
Cornvvallis,  362.  Amount  of  revenue  drawn  in,  363.  Em- 
ployment for  young  men  from  England  in,  364".  Number  of 
Europeans  in,  371.  Commerce  in,  by  whom  almost  exclusive- 
ly conducted,  372.  Estimate  of  the  trade  with,  374.  Mis- 
sions established  in  different  parts  of,  for  converting  the  na- 
tives, 379.     Schools  established  in,  380. 

Indicopleustes,  Cosmas,  his  general  view  of  the  world,  and  tlie 
system  of  nature,  ii,  ■i.  His  denial  of  the  globular  form  of  the 
earth,  7. 

Indus,  fertility  of  its  banks,  ii.  116.    Tributary  streams  of,  501. 

Ispahan,  state  of,  iii.  38.     Population,  87. 

Jaggernaut,  interesting  account  of,  ii.  165.  Revenue  of,  in  Oris- 
sa,  171. 

Japan,  manners  of  the  people  of,  how  opposite  to  those  of  Eu- 
ropeans, iii.  367.  Character  and  intellect  of,  superior  to  those 
of  all  the  Eastern  nations,  368.  Religion  of,  369.  Portu- 
guese missionaries,  how  punished  by,  379.  Treatment  re- 
ceived by  the  Portuguese  from,  380.  Succeeded  by  the 
Dutch,  381.  Jeddo,  capital  of,  houses  and  palaces  in,  383. 
History  of  the  ecclesiastical  and  military  sovereigns  in,  385. 
Meaco,  centre  of  literature  in,  386.  Ceremonies  of  a  ship, 
when  entering  into,  387.  Osaka,  great  seat  of  commerce  in, 
390.  Character  of  the  people  in,  392-  Industry  of,  393. 
Russian  ambassadors,  how  treated  by,  394. 

jenkinson,  Anthony,  sent  by  the  English  merchants  to  open  a 
commercial  intercourse  with  Central  Asia ;  his  voyage  to 
Russia  in  1557,  i.  307.  From  Moscow  he  proceeds  along 
the  Volga  to  Cazan,  308.  His  account  of  the  Nogay  Tartars, 
309.  Reaches  Astrakhan;  its  merchandise,  310.  Arrives 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Yaik;  character  of  the  people,  311. 
Reaches  the  foot  of  Minkislak,  how  entertained,  312.  Rob- 
bed of  part  of  his  goods  by  a  party  of  Tartarian  horse,  ibid. 
Arrives  at  Azim  Khan,  and  description  of  Urghenz,  314. 
Account  of  Bochara,  his  next  residence,  and  how  entertair^ed 
by  that  monarch,  319.  State  of  trade  in  all  this  northern 
part  of  Asia,  321.  Sets  out  for  Persia,  ibid.  Proceeds  to 
Schamachie,  and  reception  he  met  with,  326.  Arrival  at 
Casbin,  327.  Resolution  of  the  king  to  kill  him,  and  how  dis- 
suaded from  his  purpose,  335. 

VOL.  III.  L  1 


5S6  INDEX. 

Jerusalem,  ancient  city  of;  pilgrimage  to,  iii.  107.  Its  splendid 
edifices,  and  ancient  sacred  relics  in,  108.  Distinguished  se- 
pulchres in,  170.     Population  of,  171. 

Jeselmeere  territory,  its  produce  and  government,  ii.  118. 

Jews,  colony  of,  in  India,  near  Cochin,  when  they  are  said  to  have 
come  into  that  country,  ii.  352.  Hebrew  manuscript  found 
amongst,  354. 

Jogues,  history  of,  in  India,  i.  387.  High  influence  of  this 
priesthood,  73. 

Johore,  kingdom  of,  where  situated ;  aspect  of  the  country  ;  by 
whom  governed,  i.  301. 

Jordan,  river  of,  colour  of  its  waters,  iii.  108. 

Josimath,  town  of,  its  situation  and  inhabitants,  ii.  399. 

Jummoo,  a  town  of  Lahore,  and  history  of,  ii.  481. 

Kalha  territory,  its  extent  and  produce,  i.  462. 

Kallabaugh,  where  situated,  and  how  approached;  colour  of  the 
ground  in  tlie  neighbourhood,  ii.  495. 

Kalmucks,  character  and  religion  of,  iii.  427- 

Kane,  a  commercial  town,  and  where  placed,  i.  37- 

Karrak,  ancient  country  of  the  Moabites,  and  ruins  of  its  capital, 
iii.  182. 

Karrakorum,  ancient  residence  of  the  posterity  of  Zingis  ;  diffe- 
rence of  opinion  respecting  its  actual  site. 

Kirkpatrick,  Colonel,  mission  of,  to  Nepal,  ii.  4-70. 

Kirghises,  territory  of,  inhabitants,  their  subsistence,  and  hospi- 
tality, i.  364. 

Kostamouni,  ancient  capital  of  Paphlagonia,  in  a  rugged  and 
dreary  country,  iii.  176. 

Kshatyras,  second  Hindoo  cast,  is  the  military  order,  character 
of,  ii.  328.     What  regions  inhabited  by,  ii.  329. 

Kurds,  frightful  picture  of,  i.  201. 

Kutaich,  capital  of  Anatolia,  population  of,  iii.  177.  Site  of  the 
town  and  castle,  178. 

Lahore,  country  round,  its  extreme  fertility,  ii.  179.     Religion 

of  the  inhabitants,  numerous  baths  in,  180. 
Laodicea,  ancient,  vast  amphitheatre  in,  and  of  what  constructed, 

iii.  158. 
Lama,  or  great  chief  of  the  Shaman  religion,  how  worshipped, 

and  supposed  eternity  of,  i.  437.      Honours  paid  him  by  the 

Chinese  and  Tartar  ambassadors,  438. 
Lara,  an  ancient  city,  account  of  the  music  in,  iii.  34.     Houses 

»nd  magnificent  bazaar  in,  35. 


INDEX.  531 

Lebanon,  remnant  of  the  forest  of,  iii.  138.     Convent  situated 

on,  145. 
Leuke  Kome,  in  Egypt,  surpassed  in  commercial  greatness  by 

Alexandria,  i.  35. 
Limyrike,  coast  of,  principal  ports  on,  opinion  of  Dr  Vincent 

respecting  the  modern  names  of,  i.  42. 
London   Company  sent   expeditions  into  Asia  for  the  purpose 

of  opening  a  commercial  intercourse,  i.  307.    Its  success,  314. 

Their  last  effort  to  effect  their  favourite  object,  334. 
Lucimow,  capital  of  the  province  of  Oude,  and  residence  of  the 

Nabob  vizier,  its  paltry  buildings,  iii.  218. 

Madras,  beauty  of  its  buildings,  ii.  209. 

Mahrattas,  their  rank  in  Hindoo  society,  ii.  333.  Original  seat 
of,  when  they  began  to  make  a  figure  in  Indian  history,  ii.  334. 
Contention  of,  with  Britain ;  vanquished,  336.  Their  hostile 
disposition,  ib.  Manner  of  carrying  on  war,  337.  Their 
army  a  vast  and  encumbered  body,  338.  Avoid  coming  to 
close  action,  339. 

Maimatshin,  Chinese  city,  description  of,  iii.  468. 

Malari,  village  of,  houses  how  constructed,  inhabitants  and 
dresses  of,  ii.  408.     Trade  in,  409^ 

Manah,  town  of,  on  the  river  Alcananda,  number  of  its  houses  and 
inhabitants,  ii.  401. 

Manasarowara,  lake  of,  its  length,  its  waters,  convents  with 
which  it  is  surrounded,  ii.  422.  Problem  of  Eastern  geogra- 
phers to  ascertain  whether  any  rivers  flow  from  this  lake,  423. 

Mandeslo,  a  German,  obtained  permission  to  visit  India ;  arrives 
at  Surat ;  greatness  of  that  city,  ii.  172.  Arrives  at  Baroach  ; 
how  entertained  there,  173.  Reaches  Amadabad  ;  description 
of;  the  extent  of  this  capital  of  Guzerat ;  its  market-place, 
174.  Woods  how  peopled;  its  manufactures,  175.  Its  go- 
vernor and  his  cruel  character,  177.  Travels  to  Cambay ;  the 
widow  of  a  Rajaput  burns  herself  on  the  funeral  pile  of  her 
husband,  173.  Arrives  at  Agra,  its  appearance,  its  mosques, 
ib.  Visits  Lahore;  the  baths  there,  180.  Danger  attend- 
ing his  journey  from  Lahore  to  Amadabad,  181.  Visits 
Viziapour,  capital  of  Decan,  which  he  represents  as  one  of  the 
greatest  cities  in  Asia ;  its  king  amply  provided  with  cannon  ; 
returns  to  Surat  and  sails  for  Europe,  182. 

Mandeville,  Sir  John,  where  born  ;  time  spent  in  traversing  the 
v/hole  east ;  his  death,  i.  193.  Doubts  respecting  the  truth  of 
his  narrative,  194.     Instances  of  its  falsehood  quoted,  195. 


532  INDEX. 

Manrique  Sebastian,  missionary  in  Bengal ;  arrives  at  Ang6lim 
on  the  mouth  of  the  western  branch  of  the  Ganges,  ii.  96.  How 
received  by  the  king,  97.  His  narrative  of  Bengal,  99.  Jour- 
ney to  Arracan,  1 13.  His  voyage  from  Lahore  down  the  In- 
dus, IH.  Skirmish  with  robbers,  116.  Arrives  at  Tatta  ;  its 
history,  117.  Comes  to  the  territory  of  Jesselmere  ;  its  goats, 
119.     Peculiarities  of  the  fair  sex,  ib. 

Maps,  early  European,  incorrectness  of,  i.  SO^.  By  whom  at- 
tempted to  be  regulated  in  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
506.  Improved  by  Sanson  about  the  middle  and  end  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  509. 

Mawarelnahar,  country  of,  known  to  the  Arabs ;  character  of  its 
inhabitants,  53. 

Mecca,  sterility  of  the  surrounding  country,  ii.  30.  Beautiful 
temple  at ;  ceremonies  performed  by  the  pilgrims  at,  31. 

Medes,  history  of  their  conquests,  i.  8. 

Medina,  narrative  of,  ii.  29. 

Megasthenes,  sent  on  an  embassy  to  Sandracottus  king  of  the 
Prasii ;  his  description  of  the  capital  of  India,  i.  31. 

Mekran,  province  of,  ii.  523.     Inhabitants,  ib. 

Merdin,  city,  interesting  account  of,  iii.  10. 

Meshed  Ali,  which  contains  the  tomb  of  the  titulary  saint  of  the 
Persians,  i.  399. 

Middleton,  Sir  Henry,  in  company  with  Captain  Dounton,  sets 
sail  for  the  Red  Sea,  and  makes  the  circuit  of  Africa,  i.  266. 
Touches  at  the  Island  of  Socotora,  and  kindly  received  by  the 
king;  steers  for  Aden,  266.  Passed  the  straits  of  Babel- 
mandel ;  his  vessel  run  aground  by  two  Arab  pilots  on  a  bank 
of  sand  near  Mocha,  267.  Brought  to  the  Aga's  house  in 
Mocha,  who  receives  him  with  the  most  extreme  courtesy, 
268.  How  betrayed  by  the  Turks,  269.  Called  again  before 
the  Aga,  and  cruelly  treated,  271.  Conducted  to  Zenan,  the 
capital  of  Yemen,  275.  Brought  before  the  Basha,  and  set 
at  liberty  by  means  of  a  Moorish  Cairo  merchant  and  the 
lieutenant-general,  277.  By  what  means  he  effects  his  escape, 
279.  Letter  of,  to  the  Aga,  with  a  threat,  281.  Arrives  at  Soco- 
tora, 282.  Sails  to  Dabul,  283.  Measures  which  he  adopts 
with  the  Indian  ships,  284-. 

Mildenhall,  John,  his  journey  overland  to  the  Great  Mogul  in 
1606  ;  his  reception,  ii,  122.  Base  conduct  of  the  Jesuits, 
123.  Confronted  with  them,  and  their  defeat,  125.  Con- 
cludes a  treaty,  ih. 

Miletus,  ruined  state  of,  and  remains  of  a  theatre  in,  iii.  157- 

Mingrelia,  where  situated,  iii.  61.    Religion,  62. 


INDEX.  533 

IVJissionaries,  Roman,  grand  source  of  modern  information  re- 
specting Asia,  i.  514. 

-  .  British,  how  they  have  added  new  light  on  tlic  gieo- 

graphy  of  the  countries  comprehended  under  the  Birman  em- 
pire, 516. 

Portuguese,  obstacles  to  the  diffusion  of  the  Catholic 


faith  in  India,  ii.  73.  Artifices  employed  by  them  to  convert 
the  people,  74.  Privations  which  the  converts  are  made  to 
undergo,  75.  Conversion  of  the  only  daughter  of  the  king  of 
Goa,  ib.  Salsette  regarded  by  them  as  the  great  stronghold 
of  idolatry,  77.  Violent  measures  used  by,  to  effect  conver- 
sion, and  their  effects,  78.  Vengeance  inflicted  by  the  In- 
dians, 80.  Small  progress  at  Pesqueria,  and  compelled  at  last 
to  evacuate  that  coast,  82.  Sent  for  by  a  monarch  of  the 
Great  Mogul  dynasty ;  interesting  journey  of;  set  sail  from 
Damaun  to  Surat;  description  of  this  city,  and  by  whom  then 
crowded,  84.  Tuptee  river  celebrated  in  the  fables  of  the 
Gentoos,  ib.  Pyramids  they  saw  on  their  journey,  and  for 
what  purpose  erected,  85.  Arrival  at  Sultanpoor;  festival 
there,  and  for  what  reason,  86.  Come  to  the  city  called 
Uzen ;  witness  the  funeral  of  a  Banian,  87.  Festival  of  the 
Gentoos  in  honour  of  the  areca  tree  at  Narwar,  88.  Arrival 
at  Fatepur  ;  reception  of  by  the  monarch  ;  presents  offered  the 
Mogul,  89.  Disputes  with  the  Mollahs,  90.  Singular  proposal 
of  the  king  to  try  the  faith  of  the  two  contending  parties, 91.  Un- 
successful in  their  efforts  of  conversion,  they  solicit  and  obtain 
permission  to  return  to  Goa,  92.  Second  mission  to  the  Mogul 
equally  unsuccessful  with  the  former,  93 ;  third  mission  to  the 
monarch  at  Lahore ;  description  of  Cambaya,  ib.  Desert  of 
moving  sand  between  Cambaya  and  Lahore,  how  passed,  94-. 
How  received  by  the  king  in  his  capital,  95.  Accompanied 
the  monarch  into  Casimir;  interesting  account  of,  equally  un- 
successful as  the  former  ;  return  to  Goa,  ^Q. 

Mocha  town,  account  of,  i.  277. 

Mogul  dynasty,  monarch  of,  invites  the  Portuguese  missionaries, 
ii.  86.  His  reception  of  them,  89.  His  singular  mode  of 
proving  the  merits  of  the  two  religions,  91.  Great  Mogul, 
why  so  termed,  120.  Embassies  from  England  to,  1606, 
122.     In  1608,  126.     In  1612,  138.     Extent  of  his  empire, 

184.  In  what  the  strength  of  his  army  principally  consists, 

185.  His  revenues,  187.  Its  government,  190.  Military 
force  of,  191.  Flattery  lavished  on,  192.  Mogul  diamonds, 
207. 


534<  INDEX. 

Moorcroft,  Mr,  journey  into  Thibet,  and  object,  iOi.  Hires  a 
Pundit  on  certain  conditions,  4-05.  Reaches  Himmaleh  ;  lofty 
pines,  ib.  By  what  animals  this  path  can  only  be  trod,  408. 
Reaches  Malari,  account  of  it,  ib.  Arrives  at  Niti,  where  de- 
tained, 409.  Difficulty  of  respiration  in  these  lofty  regions; 
by  what  occasioned,  412.  Daba,  its  situation,  413.  Thence 
to  Gertope,  emporium  of  the  Undes,  418.  Information  re- 
ceived from  the  Ladacks,  419.  Arrive  at  the  lake  of  Manas- 
arowara,  421. 

Moultan,  city  and  manufactures  of,  ii.  493. 

Nairs,  chiefs  in  the  southern  coast  of  Malabar;  their  trade, 
early  marriages,  and  irregular  conduct ;  unnatural  mode  of 
living,  ii.  349. 

Names,  ancient,  of  places  in  Judea,  described  by  Arabian  tra- 
vellers, recognized  under  more  modern  appellations.  Lapage 
identified  with  Ceylon,  Mujet  with  Thibet,  Mabed  with  Ava, 
i.  62. 

Nanquin,  magnificence  of,  iii.  271.  Visited  by  friars  who  are 
favoured  by  the  Mandarins  of,  289. 

Naplous,  the  ancient  Sichem,  capital  of  Samaria,  its  altered  as- 
pect ;  traditions  of  the  tombs  of  Joseph  and  Eleazer,  iii.  167. 

Nazareth,  deplorable  state  of,  pretended  miracles  performed 
there,  iii.  166. 

Nearchus,  account  of  his  voyage  round  the  coast  of  Asia,  i.  17. 
Singular  phenomenon  observed  by  this  Greek  commander, 
18.  His  account  of  the  Ichthyophagi,  19.  Interview  with 
Alexander,  22.  Reaches  the  Tigris,  and  joyful  meeting  be- 
tween the  two  portions  of  the  army,  23. 

Nepal,  capital  of,  ii.  440.  Valley  of,  471.  Its  soil  and  climate, 
472.  Mountainous  valleys  of,  475.  Inhabitants,  character 
and  appearance  of,  477.  Chief  shrine  of,  478.  Revenues  of, 
479. 

Nelkynda  regarded  as  the  farthest  point  to  which  the  Roman 
fleets  were  accustomed  to  sail,  i.  42.  Woollen  cloths  sold  to 
its  inhabitants  by  the  Romans,  43. 

Nice,  ancient  capital  of  Bithynia,  striking  ruins  of,  iii.  172. 

Niti,  extreme  village  of,  the  frontier  of  India,  ii.  409.  Extremes 
of  heat  and  cold  at,  410. 

Nineveh,  ancient,  where  situated,  and  desolation,  iii.  102. 

Oderic  of  Portenau,  his  travels  in  the  East,  i.  182.  Sets  out 
from  Constantinople,  proceeds  to  Trebisond,  ascends  the 
mountainous  regions  of  Armenia,  enters  Persia,  visits  Baku; 


INDEX.  533 

^oJns  a  caravan  of  merchants  going  to  India,  ]85.  Comes  to 
the  land  of  Chaldea,  arrives  at  Tana,  dreadful  tragedy  there, 
186.     Circumstance  which  took  place  during  his  voyage  to 

.  India,  187-  Arrives  at  the  coast  of  Malabar,  188.  Proceeds 
tp  the  coast  of  Coromandel,  witnesses  the  ceremonies  of  a 
great  temple,  apjtarently  that  of  Jaggernaut,  ib.  Proceeds 
from  the  coast  of  Coromandel  to  the  northern  extremity  of 
Sumatra;  his  account  of  the  inhabitants,  189.  Proceeds  to 
Java,  its  fruit,  its  fish,  190.  His  account  of  Kastan  in 
Southern  China,  191.  Coincidence  of  his  descriptions  of 
Quinsay  and  Cambalu,  with  those  of  Marco  Polo,  ib.  Narra- 
tive of  a  gloomy  valley  into  which  he  entered,  192. 

Onesocritus  sent  by  Alexander  to  converse  with  the  Bramios, 
and  subject  of  their  conversation,  i.  tiH. 

Ormus,  ancient  city,  description  of,  i.  382.  By  wliom  the  Por- 
tuguese were  expelled  from,  3f)4'.  Dreadful  tragedy  which 
took  place  at,  ii.  36. 

Oujein,  account  of  the  funeral  of  a  Banian  at,  ii.  87. 

Oxus,  river,  its  breadth,  and  by  what  means  crossed,  i.  21 4-.  lu 
termination,  512. 

Pallas,  journey  of,  through  the  north  of  Asia,  iii.  4-57,  &c. 

Palmyra,  where  situated,  iii.  14-9.  By  whom  inhabited,  150. 
By  whom  founded,  152.  Through  whom  it  became  illus- 
trious, iL 

Palibothra,  ancient  capital  of  India,  history  of,  i.  487.  Dis- 
putes concerning  the  place  where  that  metropolis  actually 
stood,  4'88.  Hypothesis  of  Major  Rennell  concerning  its  site, 
4-90. 

Patna,  capital  of  the  province  of  Bahar,  ii.  216.  Mosque  there, 
ib. 

Pegu  in  the  east  of  India,  mission  to  the  court  of,  from  Portugal, 
and  how  received,  iii.  208.  Houses  and  palace  of,  209. 
Number  of  crowned  heads  subject  to  the  king,  210.  Traffic 
to,  211.  Pagodas  in,  212.  Cruelty  of  the  king,  213.  By 
whom  conquered,  ib.  Empire  established  on  the  ruins  of, 
214-.     Splendid  temples,  216. 

Peking,  capital  of  China,  iii.  271.  What  missionary  intrusted 
with  the  management  of  the  observatory  at,  292.  Dutch 
mission  arrived,  and  how  received  by  the  king,  299.  Streets 
and  canals  of,  325.     Its  houses,  332. 

Persepolis.,  description  of  the  remains  of,  iii.  15.  Its  columns 
37. 


53d  INDEX. 

Persia,  expedition  to,  by  the  English,  for  opening  a  commercial 
communication  with,  i.  323.  Involved  in  a  civil  war  by  the 
death  of  Nadir,  364.  Festivals  of,  371.  Gulf,  shores  of,  fa- 
mous for  pearl-fishery,  388.  Extent  of  the  country,  iii.  3. 
Changes  in,  4.  Mission  to,  from  the  Venetian  states,  6. 
Games  in,  li.  Mode  of  going  to  battle,  IS.  Habits  of,  53. 
Government,  54.  Character  of  the  Persians  by  Chardin,  68. 
ISIilitary  system  of,  72.  Learning,  and  rank  of  wise  men  in, 
73.  Their  passion  for  poetry,  74.  Embassy  from,  to  Paris, 
86.  Embassy  to,  from  Britain,  86.  Trade,  state  of,  in,  94. 
Parallel  between  Persians  and  Turks,  98.  Cavalry  in,  99. 
Antiquities  in,  100. 

Peshawer,  history  of  that  city,  ii.  486.  Number  and  variety  of  its 
inhabitants,  494. 

Pesqueria,  between  Narsinga  and  Bisnagar,  temple  erected  in 
by  the  Portuguese  mission,  ii.  81,  Its  natives  rise  in  arms  and 
defeat  the  Portuguese,  iii.  82. 

Petra,  ancient  capital  of  Edom,  once  the  emporium  of  almost  all 
the  commodities  of  India,  i.  35.  Number  of  tombs  in,  iii. 
185. 

Pindarees,  a  race  of  Hindoos,  zealous  Mahometans,  disposition 
to  plunder ;  what  regions  occupied  by,  ii.  340.  Irregularity  in 
marching  and  encamping,  341.  Their  barbarities  checked  by 
the  British,  342. 

Pinto,  Ferdinand  Mendez,  parentage  of,  and  where  born,  i.  235. 
Sets  sail  on  a  mission  to  the  Red  Sea,  lands  in  Abyssinia,  re- 
ceives an  excellent  reception  from  the  court,  236.  Sets  sail 
from  the  port  of  Arkeeko,  captured  by  the  Turks,  and  cruelly 
treated  by  that  people,  237.  Sold  for  a  slave,  brought  to  Or- 
mus,  where  he  is  redeemed  by  the  Portuguese  government,  ib. 
Induced  to  embark  in  an  expedition  to  be  sent  up  the  Gulf  of 
Siam,  238.  Attacked  by  an  Arab  junk,  the  whole  crew  killed 
except  three,  239.  In  what  manner  he  escapes,  and  by  whom 
relieved,  239.  Shocking  acts  of  piracy  with  which  he  is  con- 
nected, 241.  His  shipwreck,  243.  Seize  upon  a  Chinese 
vessel,  244.  Set  sail  for  Siampoo,  245.  Engagement  with 
Coja  Acem  ;  the  latter  defeated  and  killed,  248.  Robbery  of 
a  monastery  in  China,  and  account  of  a  hermit,  249.  Wrecked, 
made  slaves,  and  carried  successively  to  Nanquin  and  Peking, 
252.  His  description  of  these  cities,  253.  Of  the  face  of  the 
country,  254.  Invasion  and  conquest  of  China  by  an  army  of 
Tartars,  -the  city  in  which  he  was  detained  taken ;  afterwards 
attached  to  an  embassy  to  the  court  of  Cochin-china ;  dismiss- 
ed by  the  chief  of  the  embassy ;  hires  himself  as  a  sailor  on 


INDEX.  5.37 

board  a  vessel  bound  for  Japan,  landed  at  Bungo,  where  notic- 
ed for  his  medical  skill,  256.  Wrecked  on  the  coast  of  Loo- 
choo,  and  taken  before  the  Broquen  to  give  an  account  of 
himself,  258.  Sentenced  to  be  executed,  their  pardon  obtain- 
ed by  the  interposition  of  the  inhabitants  of  Bungo,  260. 
Reaches  Malacca,  recommended  to  the  notice  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  in  1558  returns  to  his  native  country,  2(S2. 

Philadelphia,  modern  name  of;  traces  of  the  ancient  city,  iii. 
158. 

Phrygia,  country  of,  covered  with  ruins ;  wretched  state  of  agri- 
culture in,  iii.  173. 

Plithana,  where  situated;  its  supposed  modern  name,  i.  41. 

Polo,  Maffio,  and  Nicolo,  Venetian  merchants,  their  voyage  to 
Constantinople,  i.  154.  Sail  across  to  Soldaia,  and  dispose 
of  their  precious  cargo,  ib.  Difficulty  attending  their  return  ; 
seek  a  way  round  the  Aral  to  Bochara,  ih.  Meet  the  ambas- 
sador of  Cathay  during  their  residence  there,  and  invited  to 
proceed  to  the  dominions  of  his  sovereign,  i.  155.  Graciously 
received  by  the  Great  Khan,  ib.  The  Khan  opens  a  commu- 
nication with  the  Pope,  and  requests  him  to  send  an  hundred 
men  qualified  to  teach  the  Christian  religion  and  the  seven 
sciences,  i.  155.  Venetians  depart  along  with  a  Chinese  no- 
bleman ;  difficulties  of  the  journey,  i.  156.  The  mission  graci- 
ously received  by  the  new  Pontiff,  ib.  Again  reach  the  court 
of  the  Khan,  i.  157.  Return  to  Venice  after  an  absence  of 
twenty-four  years,  ib.  Richness  of  their  dresses  and  quantity 
of  the  jewels  they  brought  along  with  them,  i.  158. 

Polo,  Marco,  son  of  Maffio,  returns  from  the  East ;  acquires 
high  consideration  in  the  state,  i.  158.  Appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  one  of  the  galleys  equipped  against  the  Genoese  ;  de- 
feated and  taken  prisoner,  159.  Length  of  time  detained  in 
captivity,  and  by  whom  visited,  ib.  To  what  circumstances  we 
are  indebted  for  his  narrative,  and  how  received,  160.  First 
country  which  he  describes  called  by  him  Turcomania,  and 
where  situated,  161.  His  description  of  Zorgiana,  (Georgia), 
162.  Of  Bagdad,  163.  Of  Tauris  in  Persia,  164.  OfOrmus, 
165.  Of  the  Ismaelis,  and  by  what  means  their  prince  esta- 
blished his  power,  167.  Of  Balkh,  ib.  Of  the  plain  of  Pamer, 
170.  Of  Khoten,  171.  Of  Charckan,  172.  Of  the  Great 
Desert,  ib.  Of  Tangut  and  their  religious  ceremonies,  173, 
Of  Kamul,  and  their  excess  of  hospitality,  174.  His  entrance 
into  China  and  description  of  Karrakorura,  175.  Magnificent 
hunting  palace  of  the  Khan  at  Shandu,  176.  Of  Cambalu, 
the  capital  of  Northern  China,  177.    Of  Quinsai,  the  cafiUal  of 


63S  INDEX. 

Southern  China,  179.     On  his  return  home  visits  Ceylon,  181. 

From  Alexandria  he  sets  sail  for  Venice,  182. 
Portuguese  India,  its  extent,  and  how  long  possessed,  ii.  70.    Its 

rapid  decline,  71.     Monarchs  of,  their  zeal  to  promote  the 

Catholic  faith  in,  72. 
Prayagas,  Gangetic,  how  formed,  ii.  399. 
Ptolemy,   his  knowledge   of  the   extent  of  Asia,   i.  481.     Who 

were  the  remotest  nations  recognized  in  his  time,  i.  4<82. 
Ptolemies,  family  of,  in  Egypt,  to  what  their  exertions  were  der 

voted,  i.  33.    Their  library,  by  whom  embodied  into  a  general 

system,  S^. 

^uiNSAi  (Canasia),  capital  of  Southern  Asia,  its  circumference, 
its  canals,  and  bridges,  i.  179.  Its  market-place  and  garrison, 
180. 

•Kaalconda,  diamond  mines  in,  how  the  diamonds  are  separat- 
ed, ii.  203.  Persons  employed,  price  of  labour  at,  SO^.  By 
whom  the  diamonds  purchased,  205. 

Rey,  remains  of,  iii.  66. 

Ricold  de  Monte  Crucis,  travels  of,  and  at  what  period  under- 
taken, i.  197.  Makes  the  tour  of  the  Holy  Land,  proceeded 
southward  through  Syria,  198.  His  account  of  the  Tartars 
199.  Returns  by  Armenia;  piercing  cold  of  a  region  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Eteron,  200.  His  account  of  the  Kurds, 
201.  Visits  Bagdad,  and  hospitably  entertained  by  the 
Caliphs,  202. 

Rivers,  great,  calculated  to  excite  the  curiosity  of  mankind;  cir- 
cumstances which  produce  this  effect,  ii.  382. 

Roe,  Sir  Thomas,  embassy  of  from  England  to  the  court  of  the 
Great  Mogul  ;  arrives  at  Surat,  ii.  138.  Arrives  at  Armere ; 
residence  of  the  monarch  ;  manner  in  which  business  was 
transacted  with  the  Mogul,  139.  His  audience  with  the  King, 
141.  Court  festivals  in  honour  of  the  King's  birth-day,  146. 
Meets  a  formidable  rival  at  court,  148.  March  of  the  King 
and  Prince  to  suppress  an  insurrection,  149.  Arrival  of  the 
court  at  Godah  ;  its  description,  152.  Court  ceremonies,  157. 
Procures  for  the  English  that  protection  and  liberty  which  he 
had  been  commissioned  to  solicit,  158. 

Rubruquis,  sent  by  St  Louis  on  a  mission  to  a  Tartar  prince 
called  Sartach,  i.  106.  Sets  out  from  Constantinople,  ib. 
Arrives  at  Soldaia,  and  begins  his  inquiries  about  Sartach,  107. 
His  description  of  the  Tartars,  108.  Of  their  domestic  life, 
109.     Their  dress,  111.     His  account  of  the  Tartar  women, 


^  INDEX.  5.39 

112.   Enters  a  district  occupied  by  Scacatai,  a  petty  chief,  113. 
Interview  with  that  chief,  114.     Endeavours  in  vain  to  convert 
them  to   Christianity,  115.     Proceeds  eastward  through  the 
country  of  the  Comarians,    116.     Affliction  from  the  conduct 
of  his  interpreter,  ib.     Arrives  at  the  river  Don,  II7.    Arrives 
at  the  residence  of  Sartach,  ib.     Presents  himself  to  the  chief 
Cojat,  118.     Introduced   to   the   King,    119.     Desired  to  pay 
a  visit  to  Baatu,  the  father  of  Sartach,  and  to  leave  his  vest- 
ments behind,  120.     His  account  of  the  potentates  who  ruled 
in  the  vast  regions  on  which  he  was  entering,   121.     Events 
which  took  place  on  his  journey  to  the  court  of  Baatu,   122. 
Arrives  at  the  court  of  Baatu  ;  his  audience,  and  awkward  cir- 
cumstance which  took  place  on  that  occasion,  124.    Is  inform- 
ed of  the  absolute  necessity  of  his  visiting  the  court  of  Mangu 
Khan,  and  of  leaving  behind  some  of  his  associates,  125.     Is 
accompanied  part   of  the   way   by   Baatu's   court,   126.     Is 
waited  upon  by  a  rich  Mogul,  his  destined  guide  to  the  court 
of  Mangu  Khan,  J27.     Scarcity  of  victuals  on  their  journey, 
128.     Introduced  by  his  guide  to  the   courts  of  the  Mocrul 
chiefs,  by  whom  he  was  courteously  received,   129.     Arrives 
at  the  city  of  Corlac;  religious  observances,  130.     Arrives  at 
the  palace    of   the    Khan,   133.     Introduced  at    court,    134. 
His  speech  to  the  monarch,  135.     Invited  to  witness  a  grand 
religious  ceremony  which  was  to  be   performed   by  Mangu 
Khan,    136.       Another   interview   with    Mangu    Khan,    137. 
Drunkenness   of  the  priests,  ib.     Accompanies  an  Armenian 
monk  to  assist  in  the  cure  of  Cota,  a  lady  of  distinction,  138. 
Discovery  of  the  imposture  of  this  monk,   139.     Instances  of 
sorcery  practised  at  that  court,   140.     Accompanies   Mangu 
Khan  to  Karrakorum  his  capital  ;  description  of  the  city  and 
palace,   141.     Description  of  an  important  drinking  machine 
at  that  court,  142.    Religious  conference  with  the  members  of 
one  Christian  church  in  that  city,  143.     The  Saracens  report 
to  the  king  of  the  offensive  language  of  Rubruquis,  144.    Or- 
dered by  the  king's  secretary'  to  leave  the  countr}',  145.     Re- 
ligious controversy  between,  and  the  Tuines,  who  were  put  to 
silence  by  the  former,   145.     Called  to  another  audience  with 
the  king,  and  obtains  necessaries  for  his  return,   146.     Re- 
ceives letters  from  the  king,  and  sets  out  on  his  journey  with 
an    Indian    ambassador,    147.     Returns   to   the    residence   of 
Baatu ;   meets  again  Baatu  and   Sartach,   with  whom  he  has 
very  amicable  interviews,  148.     Arrives  at  Armenia,  passes 
the  Euphrates,  and  enters  the  dominions  of  the  Soldan  of  Tur- 
key, 140.     His  humble  view  of  the  state  of  the  Turkish  em.. 


540  INDEX. 

pire,  ib.  Deprecates  the  system  of  sending  as  ambassadors  to 
the  Great  Khan  friars  like  himself,  150. 
Russia,  by  what  European  navigator  discovered,  i.  307.  State 
of,  previous  to  the  period  of  Peter  the  Great,  3'i'4.  Disco- 
veries in,  511.  By  whom  the  geography  of  the  countries 
situated  on  the  Aral  and  the  Caspian  explored,  i.  512. 

Salsctte,  an  island  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Goa,  stronghold  of 
idolatry  there,  ii.  76.  Tumults  betwixt  the  Portuguese  mis- 
sionaries and  natives  in,  77. 

Samarcand,  Tartar  city,  description  of,  i.  222.  Its  extreme  de- 
cay, 468. 

Samaria,  capital  of,  iii.  167.     Tombs  in,  ib. 

Sardis,  ancient  city,  strongly  cemented  walls  of,  iii.  159. 

Scliamachie,  history  of,  i.  S36. 

Schildtberger,  a  German,  made  captive  by  Timur,  his  history  of 
Issibur  (Siberia),  i.  225.  Interesting  account  of  his  escape 
after  thirty  years'  captivity,  226. 

Schiras,  town  and  environs  of,  iii.  36.     Population,  87. 

Scythians,  what  portion  of  the  world  they  inhabited,  i.  5.  Who 
were  so  called  by  the  ancients,  69.  To  what  compared,  71. 
By  whom  opposed,  ib. 

Seiks,  a  race  of  fanatic  warriors  in  the  north-west  of  India,  their 
founder  ;  his  religion,  how  formed,  ii.  343.  Equality  of,  344. 
Territory  possesed  by,  and  name  of  their  capital,  347.  Gene- 
ral character  of,  ii.  348. 

Seetzen,  Dr,  his  visit  to  Mecca,  and  account  of,  iii.  202.  Then 
Medina,  203.     Sana,  its  ancient  name,  203. 

Seleucia,  ancient  site  of,  iii.  148.  How  fortified;  head-dress  of 
the  women  in,  149. 

Serampore,  mission  at,  in  India,  for  converting  the  natives  ;  by 
whom  founded ;  progress  and  extent  of  their  philological  re- 
searches, ii.  376.  Number  of  Eastern  languages  into  which 
the  Scriptures  have  been  translated  at,  377. 

Seres,  position  of,  what  supposed  to  be,  i.  485. 

Serica  or  China,  striking  similarity  between  ;  what  its  inhabitants 
were  anciently  and  are  now,  i.  49. 

iShadi  Khoja  sent  on  an  embassy  in  A.  D.  1419,  to  the  coast  of 
China,  i.  226.  Arrives  at  Turfan  ;  description  of  a  large  image 
in  that  city,  227.  Crosses  the  Desert  of  Shamo,  and  met  by 
a  party  of  Catayans,  228.  Comes  to  Khanbalig  ;  his  account 
of  that  city,  230.  Reception  by  the  emperor,  231.  Unto- 
ward events  which  befel  the  embassy,  232. 


INDEX.  ,541 

Sharpey,  Captain  Alexander,  sent  out  by  the  English  East  India 
Company  on  an  expedition  to  the  Red  Sea  and  the  coast  of 
Guzerat,  i.  262.  Comes  upon  the  Desolate  Islands,  enters  the 
Red  Sea,  and  arrived  at  Aden  ;  invited  ashore  by  the  Gover- 
nor of  that  place,  i.  263.  Sails  across  the  Indian  Ocean  to 
Diu,  but  wrecked  in  steering  for  Surat ;  wonderfully  saved, 
and  arrived  at  Lisbon,  265. 

Siam,  country  of,  in  the  east  of  India,  by  what  river  traversed ; 
mineral  productions  in,  iii.  237.  Government  of,  238.  Re- 
ligion in,  239.     Poetry  relished  by,  24'0.     Inhabitants  ii,  24-1 . 

Siberia,  country  of,  by  whom  its  conquest  originally  projected, 
iii.  4'16.  Colony  planted  in,  ^IQ.  Solikamskoi,  town  of,  and  salt 
mines  in,  424'.  Construction  of  the  vessels  in  which  the  salt  is 
conveyed  to  Moscow,  425.  Tobolsk,  capital  of,  its  inhabi- 
tants, 4-26.  Kungur,  cave  in,  its  extent,  442.  Katherinen- 
burg,  town  of,  442.  Shaman,  impostors  in,  449.  Isetsik,  pro- 
vince of,  458.  Ablaikit,  ruins  of,  462.  Schlangenberg,  great 
scene  of  mineral  operations,  463.     Tomsk,  trade  of,  464. 

Sidon,  by  whom  now  inhabited  and  governed,  iii.  44. 

Silk,  price  of,  at  one  period  in  Rome,  i.  50. 

Sinai,  Mount,  monastery  of  St  Catharines,  at  the  foot  of,  iii.  113, 

Sinae,  who  supposed  by  early  Europeans  to  be,  i.  482.  Opinion 
of  the  author  of  Periplus  concerning,  484. 

Sinde,  country  of,  and  inhabitants,  ii.  524. 

Smyrna,  capital  of  Asia  Minor,  by  whom  founded,  iii.  154.  By 
whom  plundered;   population  of,  155. 

Sudras,  fourth  class  of  the  Hindoos,  to  what  employment  they 
are  devoted,  ii.  329. 

Syagrus,  anciently  thought  to  be  the  largest  promontory  in  the 
worid,  i.  38. 

Syria,  description  of,  iii.  24.  Language  of,  where  spoken, 
139. 

Syriac  Christians,  by  whom  said  to  be  converted ;  number  of 
their  churches,  ii.  331.  Visited  by  Dr  Claudius  Buchanan, 
.352.     Mode  of  their  worship,  358. 

Tartars,  who  in  modern  times  so  called,  i.  69.  Opposed  in  their 
incursions  by  the  Duke  of  Silesia,  73.  The  terror  of  Europe, 
74.  Embassy  sent  to,  by  the  Pope,  75.  Description  of  that 
people,  97.  Profound  subjection  of,  to  their  Emperor,  99, 
Military  system  of,  100.  Fabulous  accounts  concerning,  108. 
Circumstances  which  led  to  a  temporary  amity  between,  and 
the  Europeans,  105. 


54^  INDEX. 

Tatta,  history  of,  its  wealth,  manufactures,  and  profligacy  of  the 
women,  ii.  117- 

Tauris,  ancient  capital  of  Persia,  by  whom  described,  i.  209. 
Places  of  amusement  in,  iii.  66. 

Teshoo  Lomboo,  in  Thibet,  description  of,  ii.  462. 

Teheran  in  Persia,  by  whom  destroyed  and  rebuilt,  iii.  88. 

Thibets,  number  of,  in  Asia,  where  situated,  and  on  what  coun- 
tries bordering,  4<42.  Religion  of,  i.  44'6.  Mission  to,  by  the 
British,  ii.  44'4'.     Parallel  between,  and  Bootan,  460. 

Thinae,  what  supposed  to  be  the  ancient  capital  of,  i.  46.  Opi- 
nion of  the  author  concerning,  478. 

Tiberias,  lake  of,  where  situated,  iii.  180. 

Timur,  a  Tartar  conquerer,  history  of,  i.  203.  Invades  Asia  Minor, 
204.  Spanish  embassy  sent  to  his  court,  ib.  Instances  of  his 
justice,  220.     Death  of,  224. 

Tungouses,  inhabitants  and  occupation  of,  iii.  429.  Severity  of 
their  winters,  438. 

Trebisond,  city  of,  by  whom  mentioned,  iii.  176.  Inhabitants  and 
trade,  177. 

Tripoli  in  Syria,  135.     Where  situated,  145. 

Turkeman,  what  country  so  called,  i.  314. 

Turkey,  Asiatic,  present  degraded  state  of,  iii.  134.  By  whom 
visited  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  and  remarks  on,  135.  Drink 
used  in,  141.     Visited  by  Dr  Clarke,  160. 

Turner,  Major,  sent  on  a  mission  to  Teshoo  Lomboo,  arrives  at 
Buxadewar,  ii.  448.  Reaches  Murichon,  its  cultivation,  449. 
Tehintchina,  bridge  across,  ib.  Tassisudon,  residence  of  the 
Daib  Rajah  ;  number  of  persons  accommodated  in  the  pa- 
lace of  the  Lama,  and  strict  celibacy  of  the  priesthood,  452. 
His  account  of  the  Bootees,  their  appearance  and  houses,  453. 
Visits  Wandipore  and  Punukka,  summer  residence  of  the 
Rajah,  456.  Arrived  at  Phari,  458.  Sees  Chumularee,  a 
mountain  between  Eastern  Thibet  and  India,  459.  Teshoo 
Lomboo,  462.  Interview  with  the  Regent,  463.  Visits  the 
Mausoleum  of  the  Lama,  ib.  Religion  of  the  Lama;  its  origin, 
its  peculiarities,  464.  Monastery  of  Terpaling,  and  his  inter- 
view with  the  infant  Lama,  466. 

Tyre,  ancient,  modern  name,  vestiges  of  its  former  grandeur, 
iii.  144. 

UsuM-cASSAN,  king  of  Persia,  iii.  5.  Army  defeated  by  the 
Turks,  7.     Unworthy  artifice  employed  by,  9. 

Uzbeck  Tartars,  cruelty  and  treachery  of,  i.  345.  Another  ac- 
count, 465.     Their  original  dwellings,  466.     Their  laws,  467. 


INDEX*  543' 

Vaisyas,  third  class  of  the  Hindoos,  occupation  of,  ii.  329. 

Valentia,  Lord,  visit  of  to  the  Red  Sea ;  his  account  of  Mocha, 
iii.  199.     Of  the  Wahabis,  200. 

Vasco  De  Gama  first  doubles  the  Cape  ;  favourably  received  at 
Melinda,  and  sails  from  thence  across  the  Indian  Ocean,  ii.  44'. 
Circumstance  which  took  place  on  descrying  the  shores  of 
Calicut,  45.  Intimated  to  the  king  his  arrival,  with  request  of 
permission  to  land,  45.  His  reception  from  the  king,  47. 
Plot  laid  against  him  by  the  Moors,  49.  Treachery  of  the  Cut- 
wal  how  obviated,  51.  Departure  from  Calicut,  53.  Expos- 
ed to  a  serious  peril  at  Goa,  55.  Steers  direct  for  Africa ; 
enters  the  Tagus  in  September  1599;  second  voyage  of; 
frightful  cruelties  of,  67.  War  with  the  Zamorin,  who  is  de- 
feated, 58. 

Verteas,  appearance  and  mode  of  living,  ii.  94. 

Vincent,  Dr,  illustrates  Arrian's  abstract  of  Nearchus's  voyage 
round  the  coasts  of  Asia,  i.  17.  His  positive  data  with  re- 
gard to  Syagrus,  38.  His  remarks  with  regard  to  the  respec- 
tive situations  of  Tyndis,  Moosiris,  and  Nelkinda,  ports  on  the 
coast  of  Simyrike,  42.  His  conjectures  concerning  the  mo- 
dern name  of  the  Kirhadae,  44. 

Volga,  river,  people  who  inhabit  its  banks  ;  pirates  by  whom  it  is 
infested,  i.  335. 

Wandipork,  fortress  of  Bootan,  its  situation,  its  approach. 

Ward  and  Dubois,  Messrs,  their  account  of  the  Hindoo  mytho- 
logy, ii.  251.  Number  of  temples  which  the  former  saw  de- 
dicated to  one  deity,  270.  His  enumeration  of  the  ceremonies 
a  Bramin  has  to  pass  in  a  single  day,  273.  His  estimate  of 
the  number  who  perish  annually  in  these  regions  under  the  in- 
fluence of  superstition,  282. 

Webb  and  Raper  sent  to  explore  the  source  of  the  Ganges; 
reach  Haridwar,  ii.  392.  Difficulties  they  had  to  encounter 
on  their  journey  to  Gangoutri,  394.  Resolve  to  explore  the 
source  of  Alacananda,  and  go  to  Serinagur ;  unfortunate  cir- 
cumstances which  befel  it,  398.  Reach  Josimath,  residence 
of  the  high-priest  and  inhabitants  of  Bhadrinath,  399.  Descrip- 
tion of  the  Himmaleh,  400.  Origin  of  the  Alacananda,  ib. 
Return  by  Manah,  account  of,  401.  Visit  the  shrine  of  Bha- 
drinath, 402.     Second  visit  of,  to  the  Himmaleh,  427. 

Wilford,  Major,  his  opinion  of  the  writers  and  learning  of  the 
Hindoos,  ii.  308. 

WJlloughby,  Sir  Hugh,  tragical  catastrophe  of,  i.  306. 


5i4»  INDEX. 

Xavier,  St  Francois,  the  great  apostle  of  the  Indies ;  his  jour- 
ney to  Japan,  iii.  273. 

Yakutsk,  in  Siberia,  character  and  appearance  of,  iii.  454'. 
Yarkund,  account  of,  i.  'iGd. 

Yellow  river  in  China ;  majestic  appearance  of,  iii.  339. 
Yeniseisk,  territory  of,  in  the  north  of  Asia ;  by  whom  inhabited, 
and  religion  in,  iii.  4!4'4'. 

Zamouin  of  Calicut,  by  whom  defeated,  ii.  68. 

Zeno,  Caterino,  a  Venetian ;  his  embassy  to  the  court  of  Persia, 

iii.  8. 
Zemindar,  meaning  of  the  term,  and  attachment  for  the  Hindoos 

to  those  chiefs,  ii.  358.     Lands  delivered  into  their  hands  by 

the  new  system  of  government,  362. 
Zingis,  character  of  that  chief,  i.  72.     History  of  the  genealogy 

of,  101.     Empire  too  vast  to  remain  long  in  an  entire  state, 

203, 


THE  END. 


Printed  by  Walker  and  Greig, 
Edinburgh. 


ERRATA. 


VOL.   I. 

Page   82,  line  13,  from  bottom,  for  Tartars         read  Fathers. 
118,  2,  instruments  read  vestments. 

122,  13,    from  top,  for     mighty  read  nightly. 

272,         15,  dele  so,  and  insert  it  next  line  after  me. 

342,         14,  Medea  read  Medusa. 

405,  4,  from  bottom,  for  evening         read  morning. 

VOL.  IL 

1 39,  6,  from  bottom,  after  ©/"add  <Ae  mode  of. 

149,  5,  from  top,        dele  ;)ar%. 

212,  13,                    ior  fine        read  five. 

240,  1 4,                          artisans  read  Africans. 

245,  2,                          offered     read  afford. 

259,  12,                          ewfr^       read  lieiory. 

332,  5,                         dws^        read  dirt. 

348,  6,                         aptness   read  openness. 

409,  lowest  line,    70  read  50. 

VOL.   IIL  ' 

120,  7,  from  top,  for         second      read  sacred. 

ISS,  4,  dele  goorf. 

186,  6,  from  bottom,  for  Arabia      read  Asiatic. 

259,  11,  executed   read  excited. 

440,  6,  Lidele      read  izsfe. 


DIRECTIONS  TO  THE  BINDER. 

Map  of  Asia  to  front  Title  Page,  Vol.  I. 
Oriens  secundum  Ptolemajum,  Vol.  I.  p.  481. 
Map  of  Hindostan,  to  front  Title  Page,  Vol.  II. 
Western  Asia,  the  same,  Vol.  III. 


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