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MALTA AND GOZO

p. Pr¥\cy Badger.

IMPB07ED AND AUGMENTED BY

N. ZAMMIT M. D.

SIX W EDITION. •.' Pv

PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY P. CALLEJA,

1879.

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p. BONAVIA - PRINTER.

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ADVERTISEMENT.

The fifth Edition of this very inte-
resting and useful loork being exhausted^ a
new and improved one has been compiled
containing the latest information as to the
trade^ commerce^ laws, festivals^ Public
buildings, Church^?, and other things and
places ofintere^'tO^genffjpmM vi^itin^ these
Islands. '^' . .. . ,/ ^' ^

We have alsofou^Mneife^sdry to draw

up many fresh stat{sl\f!hVtqU:e8--correct'

I ing errors or nothig changes — and sup-

\ pressing whatever was of little use or in-

terest informer editions.

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ADVERTISEMENT.

Our work will be found to contain fall
and correct information as to the state qf
these Islands up to the;present date.^^We
therefore hope to enjo^ the patronage of
gentlemen .travellers and of the public in
general. — This guide will he of use ta
students and others, and a most suitable
Souvenir to absent friends of a place vi-
sited by St. Paul the Qreat Apostle of
the Gentiles.

, • •• •
J.. •• •

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t^REFACE

FIOR D£L MONBO is the ai^dent Ian-
guageof the love of our country, and
though Malta, which has received the
superlative appellation from its devoted
children, i« out a rock, yet ** a rock
is a rock '* all the world through : while
the glory of thd sky which overlooks
Malte, the noble port which indents its
rugged Margin, as also the peculiarity
of its position with regard to neighbour-
ing tracts of the earth, render it altoge-
ther a rock singularly interesting, and of
vast intrinsic importance.

The sky, and air^ and country of Malta
are African ; but its life and civilization
are European. Amd here, whilst we have
all the fervid glow of a clowdless bound-
less atmosphere,— here, where the orange
grove yields its golden treasures, and the
rosy grape in all its lashious freshness
tempts the gazing eye, — we have also.

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6 PREFACE.

in delightful combination, all the arts,
sciences and purities of glorious Europe,
which stretches her enlightened sceptre
over all lands.

Formerly the bulwark of Christendom
against the bloody banner of Islamism
and infidelity, and exerting a salutary
influence o'er the desolations of Africa,
giving also decisive checks to the infa*
mous piracies of the Barbary coast, Malta,
now also, in our own times, exerts a still
nobler because a moral influence, upon the
shores of the Mediterranean, and occupies
under the benign and all powerful flag of
Great Britain, a prouder attitude than
even during the most renowned days
of her chivalrous story, under the
sovereignty of the Knights of St. John
of Gerusalera.

A writer, then, who attempts some il-
lustration of the past and present history
of so remarkable a country as Malta, to-
gether with the peculiar features of its
social and political state, however hiun-
ble his efforts, or contradicted his plan,
naay venture, without the slightest char-

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PREFACE. 7

ge of arrogance, to anticipate the good
wishes and the support of the public.

The chief design has been in the fol-
lowing papers, to afibrd the numerous
English travellers who aire continually
going to and coming from the Levant,
now on pleasure, now on business, and in
their route making a shorter or longer
stay at Malta, some assistance in the
knowledge or investigation of these is-
lands. The late facilities offered by steam
navigation to all the curious and the
learned^ to make researches in the Me-
ditarane^n seas, have greatly increased
the number of Strangers in Malta ; — as
al8o,the facilities and conveniences, which
the generosity of the truly paternal go-
veri\ment oi Malta has granted to foreign
shipping, have equally augmented the
concourse of travellers and strangers in
this far famed port.

Here travellers may repose after a long
voyage at sea, and even attempt the re-
storation of their health in case of un-
looked for indisposition; and during their
hours of quiet and solitude, they may

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S FIlfiFACI.

perhaps beigreably occupied with a cur-
sory examm^tion of th^ things which this
brief history points out.

The authoxf has confined himself to ob-
j6<^ts of utility in cenerai^bat l^as not enti-
rely pai^sed over those of degance^ofscien-
oe^atid of antiquities^And whatever credit
he may receive for his labours^ he doubts
not, that Mi inteatiiMts will be &irly and
indulgently >con6traed. At any rata this
being the first book in the English lan-
guage ever attempted, on so limited and
portabid a scale^n illustration of Melta»he
trusts thiat if he does not entirely suoeeed
in his object, he will ha;ve the giratifii»Ltion
of having pointed out the way toothers,
wh6 may follow him in that path which is
ftlwa^s noble and philanthropic,— that of
making one part of humanity acquainted
with another and of adding to the general
stock of the knowledge of the world, by
investigating mankind they exist in a geo-
graphical situation, political and social
state, and all the peculiarities of niind
and feeling.

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PART FIRST

£iLJ.&$'JL'C^-t^ JL

OF MALTA.

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FJiJIRT P^Iie/ST.

HISTORY OF MALTA.

fbom: its early settlement down to the
present time.

Preliminaix ObservatiomB — Settlement of the Phcenioians
— Greeks — Carthaginians— I(om^na—Goth9 — Emperors of
Constantinople — Arabs — Pefeat of Emperor's Expedition —
Count Boger — BebellioB of the Arabs — ISmperors of Germa-
ny — King of Aragon and Ca8tile-.-Charles V. of Germany —
Arrival of the Knights of St. John^Their first Acts— Malta
besieged by the Turkfi-— Co^fiscf^tipft of fov^r^l of the Qom-
manderies — ^Arrival of the French — Siege of Malta— Dreadful
state of the town — ^Appearance of the British Fleet ^> The
French capitulate — Malt^ ce4o4 to the British Crown,

THE early history of almost every nation is
involved in obscurity, and it would he quite
foreign to our purpose, to enter into an iuvesti-
gatiou of the several opinions, which have been
advanced by dilfferent authors, as to the primi-.
tive inhabitant^ of the island, the origin of its
name, its early form and government, and the
various natural causes which have operated to
reduce it to its present %Ue and shape. We
shall content ourselves, by giving the reader a
short sketch of what seema to be the most
probable, and least fabulous account #f the va*
rious settlements formed here by different na»
tions, until it fell into the hands of its present
possessors.

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12 PABt U HIStOfeV.

An aneient ftutkor writes, concerning this
island "Malta is furnislied with many and very
good harbours; and the inbabitantis^re very
rich, for it is full of ttll soi*ts of artificers among
whom there ai6 excellent weftvei*s of find linen*
I'heii* houses lire very stAtely and beautiful,
adorned with grad&flil eaVes iiiid p&rgetted
with white plaster. Thf) inhabitants are a Co-
lony oi Phoenicians, who, tr&ding as merchants,
as far as the western coast, resorted to this
place on account of its commodious ports, and
convenient situation for maritime commerce;
and by the advantages of this place, the inha-
bitants frequently became fhmous both for their
wealth nnd their merchandise*^ (1)* From this
quotation it appears that the Phoenicians were
Very early, if not the first settlers of this island j
and the learned Bochart considers them the
same with the Phoenicians, mentioned by Ho-
mer, generally taken for the aborigines of Malta,

Several other quotations from Cicero, and
particularly from Homer, who mentions the ^
island under the name of Ogygia, together
with the proceeding, if not decisive proof, go
far to establish the early settlement of the
Phcenicians in Malta*

The argument addttced by some to confirm
this, from the vernacular language of the coun-
try, is as altogether unnecessary as it is uncer-

(1) Diod. Sic. Lib. V. c. 1.

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PHiBNICIAHrS. 13

tain.The several words which have been brought
forward as Panic^ may all be traced back to an
Arabic original; and in fact the very small know-
ledge which we have of this ancient language,
hinders ns from drawing any satisfactory
conclusions from such a comparison. The Hev.
Mr. Schlienz^ in his late treatise on the " Use
of the Maltese language for the purposes of E-
ducation and Literature/' p. 38. very clearly
shows, that we have no certain criterion to
guide us in ascertaining the Phoenician charac-
ter of the Maltese language.
^In the hall of the Public Libraiy are still
preserved three Medals with Phoenician inscrip-
tions, as well as two other monuments of the
same language. If I may be permitted to ad-^
vance the opinion, I shoi^ld say, that the sepul^
chral grots in the mountains of Bengemma, are
also remains of the work of this ancient
people. Any person who has visited the region
of Tyre and Bidon, the early seat of the Phoe-
nician kingdom and seen those which still exist
there in abundance, will he struck at once with
the analogy between them, both as to the
manner in which they are excavated, and the
position in which they lie.

From the various medals and other monu-
ments which have been found in this island, as
well as from the accounts of ancient history, it
appears that the Greeks held possession of iir
for some time after their expulsion of the Phoe-

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14 PART I. HISTORY.

nicians* According to Thuoydided and Syco-
phoron (1), the arrival of the Greeks in Malta
ought to be dated after the Siege of Troy, in
the first year of the second Olympiad, 755 years
B. C. After that famous expedition, which
has immortalized the muse of Homer, part ol
the confederated Greeks returned to their na-
tive country, while the remainder sailed for

\ that part of Italy, which is called Calabria,
where they fouhded the cities of Crbtone and
Taranto, and many other colonies. From this
they sailed to Sicily where they built Syracuse

^ and Agrigentum, and then scattered themsel\^
over the islands of the Mediterranean. They
chased the Phoenicians from Malta, which at
the period was called Ogygia, changed the
name into Melitas, and established here their
own form of Government,

Cicero (contra Verres, lib. iv.) speaks of the
Temple of Juno, belonging to the Greeks at
Malta as being very splendid, and situated not
far from the Great Harbour. The worship of
the goddess, most probably existed here in the
time of the Phoenicians (as may be inferred
from a medal in the Public Library), by whom
she was worshipped under the title of Iside.
The learned Abela in his Malta Illustrata, lib.

» ii, not, V. accumulates evidence to prove the do-
mination of the Greeks iu this island, and the

(1) See Thucid. lib. viii. Sycoph* Cassand. lin, 1627,

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6RSERS. 15

flonsisliing state of commerce during their go-
vernment.

In the year of the world 3620, the Carthagi-
nians who had settled themselves ploug the
northern coast of Africa, and had seized upon
several islands in the Mediterranean, attacked
Malta and Sicily under the conduct of Hanni-
bal, and made themselves masters of it. It was
however, not without much effort and bloodshed
that they succeeded, as the Greeks were con-
tinually sending reinforcements from Sicily to
the assistance of the island. The conquerors
treated the inhabitants with ^reat lenity, ac-
corded to them the free practice of their own
religion, and laws, and in short time, rendered
their circumstances more flourishing than ever.

From several inscriptions, which have been
found here, the fact may be established beyond
dispute, that this ancient people flourished here
at a very early period. A square stone, with
an inscription in Punic characters, discovered
in a sepulchral cave near the place called Ben-
Ghisa, on which Sir W, Drummond has written
a learned essay, is supposed to mark the burial-
place of the famous Carthaginian general Han-
nibal. This is a curious piece and one of the
largest remains of the Punic language now in
existence j and as it helps to ascertain the an-
cient inhabitants of this island I think it not
improper to insert the translation.

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16 PART I. HISTORY.

THE IKNE« CffAMBEE
OF THE SANCTUARY OF THE SEPULCHRE

OF HANNIBAL,

ILLUSTRIOUS IN THE CONSUMMATION

OF CAI.AMITY,

EE WAS BELOVED ;

THE PEOPLE LAMENT, WHEN ABRAYEB

IN ORDER OF BATTLE,

HANNIBAL THE SON OF BAR-MELEC.

To sucli a tliriring condition did Malta arrive
during the government of tlie Carthaginians,
that it became an object for the ambitious cupi-
ditj of the Roman pow^r, after the termtnatiou
of the first Punic war. Twice was the island
pillaged ; the first time by the Consnl Attilius
Kegulus, and afterwards by Cajus Cornelius.
Finally, it fell into the hands of the Romans,
together with the island of Sicily, under the
Consul Titus Sempronius, at the oommencement
of the secoad Punic war.

By order of the senate, Malta was declared a
Roman municipality ; a prefect was appointed
over it, who was subject to the pretor of Sicily
and Marcus Marcellus was ordered to fortify
this port, so important for the defence of Sicily
and the whole of Italy. The Romans neglected
nothiug in order to conciliate the inhabitents,
who were strongly attached to the Carthagi-
nians by a common origin and language. They
respected their laws, encouraged the manufac-
tories which they found established, and partic-

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ROMANS. 17

ularly that of the cotton, which was so renowned
that Cicero informs us, it was regarded as a
luxury even at Rome. Besides all this, the
Maltese people were permitted to coin money
in their own name, to govern themselves by
their own laws, to administer justice, to enjoy
the right ofsnffra^ein the Roman council, were
eligible to any ofiice in the Republic and per-
mitted to present offers to Jnpiter Capitolinus,
a privilege the Romans only granted to their
nearest allies.

The temples of Hercules and Juno, which
existed in this island, and which were objects
of veneration to all the people of the East, were
very much embellished by the Romans. They
also raised a magnificent temple to Apollo, and
another to Proserpine, and a theatre, of which
some scattered remains of chapiters and pillars
are to be seen about the Citta Notabile, where
they stood.

Many Roman medals and coins have been
found in the island, and several inscriptibns,
which prove the privileges enjoyed by the
Maltese under that domination. The curious
will find lengthened details pn this subject in
Ciantar^s Malta Illastrata, Lib. ii. not. 6.

The Goths who had overrun and made them-
selves masters of Italy and Sicily, and had
pillaged and sacked Carthage, arrived at Malta
about the year 506; and after occupying it
for thirtyseven years, tbey were expulsed by

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18 PART !• HISTORY.

the army of Justiiiiati; under the command of
Belisarius. In the Public Library, is still to
be seen a monument of the time of the Goths;
and several other inscriptions have occasionally
been met with in the Cittd Notabile.

The island of Malta now remained pnder the
dominion of the Emperors of Constantinople,
until the latter part of the ninth century ; but
not enjoying the same privileges it had done
in the time of the Bomans, the inhabitants did
not attain their former glory.

About the year 879, during the reign of the
Emperor Basil, the Arabs, who had already
overrun all the East, and conquered Spain,
Portugal, Italy and part of France, made a
descent upon the island of Gozo, which they
soon took, and massacred all the Greeks whom
they found in it. From Gozo they crossed over
to Malta, which nobly resisted for a length of
time, but was at last obliged to yield to supe-
rior force. The fact is, the Greeks who had
followed Belisarius, had by their oppressions
rendered themselves obnoxious to the inhabit-
ants who were consequently easily brought over
to give assistance to the enemy ; hoping that
by changing masters, they might free them-
selves from their servitude.

The Arabs upon taking possession of the
island, exterminated all the Greeks and made
slaves of their wives and children. They, how-
ever treafed the Maltese with every mark of

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GOTHS. 19

respect, and allowed them the free exercise of
their own religion. The Arabs soon found the
importance and the advap^iages which the safe
ports of the island afforded to their piratical
expeditions, and in order to defend the entrance
into the great- harbour, erected a fort on the
present site of St. Angelo, to secure their ves-
sels from danger of attack. They also added
new fortifications around the Citta Notabile, by
them called Medina, and diminished the extent
of the walls, in order to facilitate its defence.

During the reigns of the Emperors Nicepho-
rus Phocas and . Michael Paphlagonien, an ex-
pedition was fitted out in order to expel the
Arabs from the island of Malta ; on account of
their continual piratical excursions upon Italy,
and the whole eastern empire, which had be-
como quite an annoyance. The admirals Nice-
tas and Manianes were appointed to command
the enterprise. All their measures however,
were disconcerted ; for, being incapable of re-
sisting the courage of their enemies, they were
obliged to betake themselves to a disgraceful
fligth.

The most extensive relic preserved in "Malta
of the domination of the Arabs, is their lan-
guage. Ciantar gives a very plausible reason
why this tongue got such an ascendancy in the
island. He says ; '^ As soon as the news was
made known that the Saracens had passed over
to Sicily wioh a great military armament, the

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20 PART I. HISTORY*

most opulent and powerful naen of our island
fled to Constantinople, under which govern-
ment they were/* (5nly the poorer classes re-
maining behind, they found it almost indispen-:
sable to accomodate themselves to the language
of their masters which became their own in the
course of the two centuries they were governed
by them. As a dialect of the Arabic, the pre-
sent Maltese spoken at Gozo, and in the casals
of Malta, is nearly as good as that of any other
Arabic country ; and it is sad to observe how
little it is appreciated by the people. With a
little cultivation, the Maltese might possess a
written language, which would yield to none in
the beauty of its phrases, or the extent of its
vocabulary. The advantages which would accrue
to the island from a cultivation of the classical
Arabic, is ably demonstrated in the late work
of the Rev. Mr. Schlienz, already alluded to.

After the Arabs had remained in quiet pos-
session of the island for 220 years, Count Ro-
ger, son of the celebrated Tancrede de Haute-
ville, in company with his brother William,
expelled them from Malta, as also from ISicily
and Naples, and the neighbouring country.
This event took place about the year 1090,The
inhabitants of these islands regarded Roger as
their deliverer, and as a testimonial of their gra-
titude, proposed to name him their sovereign.
Roger accepted of the offer, and was accord-
ingly crowned King of Sicily and Malta, in

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COUNT ROGER. 21

spite of the opposition of the Pope, and the
claims of the Emperor of Constantinople. Mi-
chael Comnenus, however, determined to rein-
state his power in the islands of the Mediterra-
nean, fitted out two formidable fleets, and
committed them to the command of Alexis
Comnenus, and Constantine Angelo ; but their
expedition failed of success, for both were
taken prisoners by Roger, who, in order to
revenge the outrage, carried his arms into the
Emperor's dominions, and returned laden with
the spoils of Thebes and Corinth, after having
obliged Michael to acknowledge his indepen-
dence, and the legitimacy of his rights.

Roger, following the spirit of the age, found-
ed and enriched many churches at Malta and
made some eflforts towards the conversion of the
Arabs to the Christian faith. To those, whom
he had pennitted to remain in his kingdom, he
acted with the greatest generosity, and (mly
levied from them a trifling yearly tribute as a
sign of their subjection. So far did his tolera-
tion extend, that he permitted them to stamp
a small gold coin, with the Arabic epigraph :
Tlwre 18 only one God and Mohammed is the
Prophet of God^ on one side, and on the reverse
King Roger. Some of those coins are still
preserved in the private museum of Cardinal
Borgia at Villetri.

Notwithstanding, however, the mildness
with which Roger treated the Arabs who chose

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22 PART I. HISTORY.

to remain in the island, they occasionally re-
volted against his authority. In 1120, such of
them as occupied the district called Kalat-eU
Sahria attempted to massacre the principal
inhabitants of the island; which obliged the
king to send his son to Malta, in order to
chastise the rebels as traitors to the govemmen^.

After the death of Roger II. Costance his
only daughter, whp had espoused the Emperor
Henry VI. ceded the islands of Malta and Si-
cily to the dominions of the Emperors of Ger-
many, of the house of Swabia, notwithstanding
the opposition of Tancrede, the natural son of
her father, who had seized upon the throne.

The? death of Tancrede, however, and that of
his unfortunate son, restored peace to the
kingdom, and brought back to the party of
Costance thes6 of the barons whose dislike for
a foreign prince had hitherto caused them to
take sides against her.

Under the government of Henry VI. and of
his son Frederic II. the Maltese greatly signal-
ized themselves by their valour at sea. Under
one of their own Admirals, they attacked and
destroyed a squadron of the Republic of Pisa,
which had come to lay jsiege to Syracuse ; and
took the island of Gandiia from the Venetians,
after having shattered their fleet, and taken
prisoner their Admiral 4-iidrea Dandalo.

After Malta remained for seventy-two years
under the German Emperors; Manfred^ the

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FRl!NCH. * 23

natural son of Frederic II., formed the horrible
design of poisoning hi» father, and making
himself master of his dominions: The cruel
oppression and tymnuical proceedings of this
usurper, excited a rebellion of the Maltese
and Sicilians against his government, and final-
ly caused Pope Urban IV. to solve all his sub-
jects from their allegiance to him. To avert
the consequences of such powerful opposition,
he offered his daughter Cos tance in marriage to
Peter, son of James, King of Arragon. This
alliance, however, had no other effect upon
Urban than that of completing his enmity to-
wards Manfred ) and without any right, except
that presumptiously assumed by his predeces-
sors, he invested Charles of Anjou, king of
France, with the po&sefision of Sicily and Naples,
f.nd their depending states. This proceeding
Fas unjustly confirmed by his successor Cle-
nent IV., who reserved to himself the duchies
o^ Benevento and Pdnte-Corvk), in the kingdom
of Naples, and a yearly tribtj*e of forty thousand
crowns, which Charlfes oblig^sd himself to pay
to the Papal See on St. Peter's day.

A battle which took place between the forces
of Charles and Manfr^, on the plaint of Bene-
vento, on the 26th February,! 266, decided the
fate of the kingdom in favour of thefermer.Man-
fred met the just punishment of his patricide and
other crimes, by being slain on the field,and his
family taken prisoners by the conqueror.

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24 PART I. HISTORY*

In the mean time, Corradin, tte legitimate
son of Frederic II. and rightful heir to the
crown, who was at this period sixteen years old ,
in company with the duke of Austria prepared
to rescue his father's dominions from the hands
of Charles. After various successes^ they pene-
trated as far as the town of Aquila in the Ab-
ruzzi, where a battle was fought on the plain
of Lis, close by the lake of Celano, in the year
1268. The troops of Corradin, being chiefly
recruits composed of different nations and fati-
gued by long marches, could not resist the
impetuosity of the French soldiery, and so were
obliged to yield. The Duke of Austria, toghe-
ther with Corradin, were beheaded in the mar-
ket-place at Naples, and with the latter the
ancient house of Saabia became extinct.

The daughter of Manfred, whose husbanc
wasnowkingofArragon with the title of Peter
III., used all her influence to inspire him t)
assert his claims to the kingdom of Sicily aid
Malta. The tyranny of Charles had already rei-
dered him obnoxious to the people whom le
governed, and it was not long before a desp-
rate attempt was formed by a private Sicilian
gentleman, who was secretely attached to Pet^r,
to masacre all the French in the kingdom at a
given signal. This famous conspiracy, known
by the name of the Sicilian Vespers, was carried
mto ©ffoct on Easter-day of the year 1282, after
wnichtheKmgofArragon was proclaimed sove-

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FRENCH. 25

reign of Sicily, and publicly crowned in the
Cathedral of Palermo.

Charles • was in Tuscany when the news of
this tragical event reached him. He immedia-
tely set about making endeavours to regain hi&
authority ; but his fleet, commanded by his son
was discomfited by Admiral Roger, who com-
manded the vessels of the Arragonese* After
this, Eoger steered towards Malta, which at
that time was governed for the French by
William Corner, who had a squadro« under his
command lying in the harbour. After a bloody
engagement, with much loss on both sides, the
French commander was obliged to capitulate,
and thus the island came under the dominion
of the Arrag^onese,

The island of Malta, after having suffered so
much from the dissensions of its successive
masters, was now destined to undergo even
worse treatment, from the individuals to whom
it was successively given as a fief by the Kings
of Arragon and Castile. Notwithstanding the
solemn promises made by King Louis, son of
Peter II., at the just and urgent representations
of the Maltese, that the island should in future
be considered as unlienable from the crown of
Sicily, it was twice afterwards mortgaged by
King Martin ; first to Don Antonio Cordova,
and subsequently to Don Gonsalvo Monroi,
for the sum of 30,000 florins.

Oppressed out of measure with the grevious

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26 PART I. HISTORY.

yoke which they had to endure under these
circumstances, and wearied of making useless
complaints, the Maltese resolved to pay to
Martin the sum of which the island had been
pledged. This generous oflfer was accepted, and
in the year 1 350, by a public act of the King, it
was decreed that the islands of Malta and Gozo
should henceforth never be separated from the
kingdom of Sicily ; and that their inhabitants
should enjoy equal privileges, with those of
Palermo, Messina, and Catania.

In 1516, this entire kingdom passed into the
hands of Charles V. of Germany, the heir of all
the Spanish dominions. Notwithstanding his
confirmation of the previous declaration of his
predecessors, concerning the perpetual junction
of Malta with Sicily ; this emperor for political
reasons, resolved to cede the islands to the Order
of St. John of Jerusalem, the remains of whicli
were at the time at Viterbo, in the Papal States,
The act of the donation is dated at Castel Fran-
co, near Bologna, March, 23, 1530 ; and the
document of the acceptance of the gift, by the
council of the Oi'der, April 25th, of the same
year. The substance of the act was as follows :
That the Emperor Charles V. King of Sicily,
gavfe to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, in
his name, and in that of his successors, the
island of Malta, Gozo, Comino, and Tripoli in
Africa, as a free and noble fief, with all the pri-
vileges of sovereignty, under these conditions :

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CHARLES V. OF GERMANY. 27

1. That every year tlie Order should present
a falcon to the King, or Viceroy of Sicily.

2. That the bishopric of Malta should always
he nominated by the kin^.

3. That the chief admiral of the fleet should
always be an Italian.

4. That they should preserve to the Maltese
all their rights and privileges.

The Grandmaster having accepted these con-
ditions, embarked to take possession of the
island, where he arrived on the 26th of October
1530, accompanied by a great many knights
and principal oflScers of the Order. The Maltese
at first, were by no means pleased at the change
which they considered as an Jrifringement upon
their engagement with the King of Sicily ;
but, being assured fey the Emperor, that their
privileges would be religiously preserved to
them by the new government, they quietly sub-
mitted.

The first care of the knights, after having
settled their authority through the two islands,
was to provide some better accomodation for
the present, and to choose a proper place to fix
their future habitation. But, as the island had
no other defence than the old castle of St. An-
gelo, and was so much exposed on all sides,
that it would have required greater sums than
their exhausted treasury could spare to put it
in a proper state to resist an attack, the Grand-
master was obliged to content himself with

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28 PART I. HlSTORY-i

Burronnding the above mentioned castle^ (where-
ia he had ordered new buildings to be reared
for the present habitation of his knights) with
a stout wall, to prevent its being surprised by
ihe Turkish and Barbary corsairs*

The Turks made several attempts to gain a
footing on the island; but were always repulsed
•vith loss. In 1 546, the famous Corsair Dragut
effected a landing, and sacked the village Tiar-
scien ; but being attacked by the English com-
mander Upton, at the head of the Maltese, he
was obliged to betake himself to a disgraceful
flight. In 1551, another attempt was made,
7/hich proved equally unsuccessful to the Turks ;
but in which the Order lost the Cavalier Repton,
the Grand Prior of England, If Omedes, who
v.as Grandmaster at this time, added a great
many fortificptions to the island, Claude de la
Sengle, his successor, carried on these means of
defence, especially the walls around the penin-
sula which is now called after his name. La
Sengle, or Senglea.

During the reign of John de la Valette, who
succeeded La Sengle, Malta was destined to
undergo its severest attack from the hands of
the Turks. A short sketch of the siege and the
capture of the Castlo St. Elmo will be given
under the description of that fort, which was
the only place the enemy succeeded in taking.
After two successive attempts, the united forces
under Mustapha and Dragut were obliged to

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ORDER OP ST. JOHN. 22

set sail from the island, after pufTering great
loss, and giving the Knights of Malta an op-
portunity of testing their renowned bravery and
signaled courage.

One of the first care of the Grandmaster,
after repairing the fort, which had greately
suffered during the siege, was to enlarge the
castle of St. Elmo, as this was the chief key of
the two ports. But his great desing was that
of building a new city on the peninsula where
it stood, and of fortifying it in such a manner,
as might render it a more secure retreat for the
Order than that of Borgo, which is commanded
by rocks and eminencies. As soon as he had
secured suflScient assistance, he immediately set
about procuring .the best engineers for the eri^
terprise ; workmen and materials wf^re brought
from Sicily, and he was enabled to lay the first
stone of the new city, on the 28th day of A[arch
1566. In 1571, three years after the death of
La Vallette, the city was completed by the
Grandmaster Peter del Ponte, and from that
time became the seat of the government.

The successive Grandmaster of the Order
augmented the fortifications which had been
beffun under La Yalette, raised numerous forts
in the interior, and along the coast of the island
and established various institutions, which will
be described in ths sequel of this work.^ A pre-
datory warfare, by sea and land, was continually
kept up between the knights of Malta and the

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30 PART 1. HISTORY.

Turks, in which the former generally displayed
more valour than true christian charity. They
were in general successful, and at length be-
came quite a terror to the Ottoman power.

During the Grandmastership of Emmanuel
Pinto, the JKing of Sicily made some pretensions
of the island of Malta, declaring that it had only
been yielded up to the Order, onoondition that
the supreme sovereignty should continne to be
vested in the hands of the Kings of Sicily 5 that
consequently he intended to send a Court to the
island, called Monarchia which should have the
jurisdiction over all public aifairs. This mes-
sage was considered an infringement upon the
rights of the existing government, and treated
with that indignity which so false an assertion
merited. Still the king persisted m his attempt,
and went so far, as to send the threatened court
in a splendid barge, handsomely damasked on
the inside, to establish themselves in the island.
Hearing of the arrival of so extraordinary an
embassy, the , Grandmaster sent forthwith to
demand their errand ; and not less astonished
than enraged, when he understood that it was
the Monarchia he immediately ordered them to
leave the harbour, and declaring that in case
they disobeyed, he would honour them with a
salute of shot. Not expecting such a reception,
the disappointed court weighed anchor, and re-
turned home. When the king heard of the
failure of his scheme, he ordered the ports of

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ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 31

Sicily to be closed against all Maltese vessels^
aad cut off the communication between this
island and his dominions. This was a terrible
blow to Malta as all her supplies were derived
from Sicily ; and being at continual war with
the Turks, she could procure nothing from
Africa. At this crisis, the Grandmaster entered
iuto a truce with the Infidels, in order that the
Ottoman Ports might be opened to the Maltese.
The Turks gladly accepted the proposal, as it
gave them a short reprieve froiii the uninter-
rupted annoyance which their commerce received
from the gallies of the Knights. During this
time, the Turks continually brought supplies of
every kind to the island; and were so assiduous
in their attentions, that they ^even imported
snow during summer, which is so much used
here in making refreshments. Acting now as
they did in conjuction with the Order, in carry-
ing on an offensive warfare against the King of
Sicily, they soon made him feel that he had
raised up against himself a formidable enemy,
which he was not able to repress. After loos-
ing many of his vessels, which had been seized
by one or other of his enemies, be sought for a
renewal of the peace, relinquished his unjust
claims, and made every possible reparation to
the Grandmaster, for the war he had occasioned.
The Bailiff Emmanuel de Rohan, of the lan-
guage of France, succeeded Ximenes, the suc-
cessor of Pinto, in the year 1775. One of his

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32 PART I. HISTORY.

first acts after his elevation was to strengthen
the executive government by the formation of a
regular battalion of infantry, composed promis-
cuously of Maltese and foreigners ; but officered
exclusively by knights. This step was thought
decidedly necessary, if the knights wished
to preserve their authority ; this plan was
strenpusly recommended by several friendly
powers. This corps was entrusted with the
keeping of La Valette, and the other important
forts ; while a considerable force was also en-
rolled to guard the open coast. Several other
eflforts were made by the Grandmaster, to revive
the ancient discipline of the Order, a new Code
of municipal laws called Code of Bohun was
published, judicious alterations were carried
into effect in the- court of judicature, and addi-
tional facilities given to the public education.
Nor, while thus busied in improving the inter-
nal administration, did the Grandmaster neglecfc
the foreing policy of the Order. In Poland he
obtained the restitution of some ancient posses-
sions, and had new commanderies formed in
Russia and Germany; which latter were endow-
ed with the confiscated property of the Jesuits,
to the extent of £15,000.

This however, was only the sunshine of pro-
sperity which was destined to be darkened by
the clouds of adversity. Towards the latter
part of Emmanuel de Rohan's reign, the Order
suffered serious losses, by the extinction of ,

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ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 33

many of its commanderies^ and the taxes im-
posed upon others bj their several governments.
By an edict of Prance dated 19th of September
1792, the Order of Malta was declared to be
extinct "within the French territories, and its
possessions were annexed to the national do«
mains. To show the delapidated state of the
revenue, it need only be mentioned, that the
receipts, which were in 1788 upwards of three
millions of livres, were in 1797 reduced to one
million. Not only were the possessions of the
t three French languages confiscated, but the
German and Arragonian commanderies, situated
in Alsace, Bousillon, and French Navarre fell also
a prey to republican rapacity. Even in Spain,
Sicily, Portugal and Naples, a similar system
of spoliation had taken place. In this extremity,
the Grandmaster Hompesch^ who had succeed-
ed Bohan, found it necessary to melt, and coin
the plate of the gallies, and part of that used
for the service of the . hospitals; and to make
use of the jewels, which were deposited in the
palace and in several of the diurches.

The French government, which had for some-
time manifested a spirit of hostility to the Or-
der, now came forward to display it openly.
The first division of the French fleet arrived
before the port of Malta^ on the 6th of June
1798. On the 9th., General Bonaparte, with
the remainder of the squadron, stood off the
island, and through Us consolX^aruson demand-
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34 PART I. HISTORY.

ed free admission for the whole fleet. This not
being complied with, on the same day, towards
evening, the French began to disembark at the
bay of Maddalena, and carried the small tort ot
St. George, without the loss of a single liie.
On the following day, fresh body of troops were
thrown ashore, without meeting with any resist-
ance ; who immediately, began to lay waste the
island with their usual Ucence, Towards the
evening, the French army had secured almost
all the important posts in the country, and had
advanced beneath the walls of the city, where
the greatest uproar now prevailed among the
people on account of the treachery which had
been discovered among several knighta of the
Order.

On the 17th a council was called, and it was
resolved to yield up the city into the hands of
the besiegers. No sooner did the French find
themselves the uncontrolled masters of the
island, than they enjoined all the knights to
quit it within three days. About ten pounds
sterling were advanced to each, for travelling
expenses ; but they were not permitted to de-
part, until they had torn the cross from their
breast, and substituted the three coloured cock-
ade. By the articles of capitulation, the French
engaged to pay to the Grandmaster an annual
pension of 300,000 livres, and to each French
knight resident in Malta, a yearly allowance ol
700 hvres,with 300 Uvres additional, to each

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FRENCH. 35

as exceeded sixty years of age. Hompesch,
accompanied by twelve knights, embarked on
the night of the 1 7th of June, on board a mer-
chant ship bound ♦for Trieste, accompanied by a
French frigate.This weak man died at Montpe-
lier in 1804, in the sixty-second year of his age.
The knights who followed the most prosperous
course, at the general dispersion, were those
who took refuge in the Russian dominions,
under the wing of their Imperial protector. The
Emperor Paul was solemnly inaugurated, as the
seventieth Grandmaster of the Order, in the
year 1 798 ; a nominal dignity, for. which he had
anxiously longed. At the same time, the stan-
dard of St. John was hoisted on the bastion of
the admiralty at St. Peters-burgh, where it con-
tinues unfurled unto this day.

Paul made several attempts to reorganize the
Order, and to this end invited the nobility of
Christendom to enlist themselves as knights in
its service. A sudden change of policy, how-
ever, put an end to his project, for the army
which he had raised to act in junction with the
English for the reconquest of Malta, was sent
to act against the British possessions in the
East.

The French expedition, with General Bona-
parte, weighed anchor from Malta, on the 19 th
of Jane, leaving General Vaubois with 4,000
men for the defence of the island. The rarities
foand in the pubhc treasury,and in the churches

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36 PART I. HISTORY.

of the Order, together with their standards
and trophies, were all carried away by the
spoilers, bat never reached the country for
which they weire destined : part of them per-
ished in the Orient, which was blown up in the
battle of Aboukir, and the rest were captured
by the English in the frigate Sensible, which
afterwards fell into their hands.

In the meanwhile, the Maltese began to feel
that they had exchanged a feeble despotism
for a yoke of extreme rigour. The French sol-
diery committed all sorts of depredations throngh
out the city; all faith was vioiated,every species
of injustice was committed, the pensions sus-
pended, and even the charitable benefactions to
the indigent, which the knights had daily con-
tinued to the hour of their surrender, were
withheld. The acts of oppression created an
invincible antipathy in the Maltese for the go-
vernment of their invaders, and at length pro-
duced a sudden burst of popular vengeance.
An attempt was made to despoil the church of
the B. V. Mary of Mount Carmel, of the Citti
Notabile, in order that its decorations might be
sold for the pnblic service, whereupon the in-
habitants, rendered furious by a proceeding so
sacrilegious, congregated in a body to prevent
the sale. The French commandant Masson
succeeded in partly quelling the tumult, but he
soon found it necessary to apply for fresh troops
from Valletta. Before these could arrive, the

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FRENCH. 37

population was reiaforccd by the villagers of
Gasal Zebbug who massacred the entire French
detachment^ with their commander^ amounting
to sixty men. From this moment, all xsom-
mfmication ceased between the city and the in-
terior, and Valetta assumed the aspect of a
place reduced to a state of blockade.

Matters were in this state when the English
fleet appeared off the island, and in conjunction
with a Portuguese squadron held a parley, in
which it was demanded that the island should
be immediately evacuated. The answer returned
was one of defiance, and a rigorous blockade
was forthwith commenced. The Portuguese
admiral was left alone to maintain the blockade
during the temporary absence of the English
squadron, on the return of which, a fresh sum-
mon WAS sent for the place to surrender. Early
in December the same was repeated, which was
firmly and laconically answered. Hitherto the
city had only been partially canonaded by a few
guns, but on the night succeeding the last re-
fusal, several new batteries were unmasked,and
some balls happening to fall within the walls,
the inhabitants feared that the threatened bom-
bardment was about being put into execution.
Famine now began to stare them in the face,
and the greatest misenr raged amongst the ci-
tizens and soldier. In these circumstances,
the inhabitants of the interior planned an enter-
prise against the garrison, in conjunction with

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38 PART I. HISTORY.

a strong body of the town people, who were
involved in the plot, and who were ready to
rise in arms, as soon as they should hear the
clangour of arms on the battlements. Two
hundred Maltese, favoured by the night, crept
into the ditches and along the sea shore, close
under the city walls in the Marsamuscetto har-
bour ; but while lying in ambush, they were
unfortunately discovered, and the alarm was
given to the garrison. On this occasion forty-
four of the conspiratortj were apprehended, and
shot by the French authorities.

The blockade had now lasted for six months,
and the city exhibited a scene of frightful pri-
vation. The besiegers would not permit any
to leave the town, knowing that their doing so
would relieve the garrison. Disease added its
ravages to the general suffering, and soldiers
and citizens became alike its victims. Month
after month passed heavily over, and in August
1800, the citizens being totally beggared, the
army was put on half pay. Four months after-
wards it was entirely stopped, and their rations
greately lessened. Still they bore all with as-
tonishing fortitude, being supported with the
hope of a speedy deliverance. At length, how-
ever, the news of the interception of the supplies
and their capture by the English, disheartened
many, though it did not at once decide them to
capitulate. The condition of the town was
dreadful beyond description. Fresh pork brought

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FRBKCH. 39

seven shillings and two pence a pound ; rats
sold at an exorbitant price; dogs and cats were
generally eated ; and horses^ asses and mules
were similarly converted into articles of food.
On the 8th of September 1800^ a parley was
held with the besiegers^ when the terms of
capitulation were arranged and ratified by Ma-
jor general Pigot and Commodore Martin on
behsJf of the EngUsh. On the aflemoon of the
same day, two English frigates and some small
craft entered the port; while the British troops
took possession of the Forts Tign^, Bicasoli
and Floriana. The following morning the
French garrison sailed away, after having en-
dured an obstinate blockade of two years.

According to the treaty of Amiens, conclud-
ed in 1802, the island of Malta and its depend-
encies were to have been restored to the Order
of St. John of Jerusalem, but this treaty was
never pat into excutioii ; war having been a-
gain declared between France and England,
leaving this latter power in possession of these
islands, in accordance with the ample consent
and wishes of the Maltese.

In the year 1814, agreable to the resolution
of the Congress of Vienna, the island of Malta,
Comino and Oozo were confirmed to the En-
glish Crown ; and they have ever since been
considered, by all the powers of Europe, as a
British dependency.

By way of comparison, we shall just give a

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40 PART. I. HISTORY.

sQCcint account of the Btate of financial afiairs
dnring the last yeara of the reign of the knights
of Malta^ in order to show tiiat the island has
lost nothing in point of wealth or prosperity^ in
having ceased to be the conventual residence of
that government, and in having come under the
rule of the British Crown.

Eeverting to the pnbUo expenditure of the
Order, it may be satisfactory to compare it
with the disbursem^it made here in present
time out of funds voted by the British parlia-
ment. ,

In the time of the Order the Oeneral treasury,
which may be said to answer to our military
chest, provided for the military andnaval charge,
so far corresponding with the supplies now
made by H. M/s treasury for carrying on si-
milar services on this situation.

The money laid out within the place by the
general treasury from the foreign resources of
the Order, on an average of ten years ending
in 1788, c^d not exceed, if it even amounted to
£82,525.

Prom the First Report of the. Oommissioners
of Colonial Inquiery, 8th December 1830, it is
collected that the disbursement from the reve-
nues of the United Kingdom made within these
ialands for the service of the land-force alone,
including the commissariat and ordnance depart-
ments, but leaving out the Maltese regiment
(£he expense of which is refunded from the local

Digitized by LjOOQIC

BRITISH, 41

treasury, ) amounted in rouBd rmmbers ta
£101,000. (1)

Of this sum, it may be inferred from the same
Eeport that about £7,000 were expended in
England ,- which will leave £ 94,000 for the
local expense, being in round numbers £11,000
more than were laid out in the place from the
treasury of the Order of all its services.

To this excess of £11,000 must be added the
exp^ises of the naval department in works of
masonry, in the repairs and supplies of ships
of war, and in payments on account of seamen^s
wages, all of which have been very considerable
of late years, though varying according to
circumstances ; and it will probably result that
for the lowe&tyear, the expenditure of the
United Kingdom in these islands has exceeded
by about fifty per cent the corresponding public
expense of the Order.

By the same document it is seen that the
works and repairs of the ordnance and barrack
departments amounted in 1829 to no less a sum
than £6,390 ; and, if the extensive works of
the naval department be added, it must be evi-

(1) According to the parliamentaiT' return of the military
expensefl lately laid upon thetahle of the House of Commons
it appears that the expense of this island to the Military
Chest of Great Britain was, for the year ending 31st March
1857, £167,671} only exceeded hy the extensive colonies of
Jamaioft, the West Indies, Canada^ New South Wales, and
the Cape of Qood Hope.

Digitized by LjOOQIC

42 PART I. HISTORY.

dent that tie Order cannot approaoh a compari-
son with the British government on the score of
employment given to the industrious inhabitants

Besides the expenditure out of the public
treasury of the Order, it is assumed, on a ge-
nerous calculation, that the sum of £ 186,000
was annually put into circulation in the island
out of the private incomes of the knights and
other members. Against these disbursements
are to be set the whole personal expenditure of
naval officers, (1) the portion of expense aris-
ing from the private incomes of military offic-
ers, and the excess of money spent beyond
what may have been the case formerly, in con-
sequence of the greater affluence of strangers
to the place, under the extended connexions
and superior protection now enjoyed through
British power and influence.

The last assumption may indeed admit of
dispute ; but in whatever light it may be viewed
it will remain with the reader to form his own
conclusion in regard to the extent to which the
island may have obtained compensation, since
it has been annexed to the British empire, for
loss of the benefit which it derived from the
incomes of the resident knights.

It is well known, however, that of late years
British squadrons have continued at anchor in

{1). That of the seamen, originating from the miliiaiy
chest, comes into the comparison of " public " expenditure.

Digitized by LjOOQIC

BRITISH. 43

this port during many successive months. The
money laid out in the place by the officers and
seamen^ and expended in the supply of fresh
provisions^ is likely to amount^ at such times,
for each ship of the line, to between £ 1000 to
£ 2000 a month, exclusive of th^ charge for
repaires and the supply of stores.

But whatever may have been the efiFect, to
contest the superior protection enjoyed under
the present ruling power, can scarcely enter
the imagination of one accustomed to judge
from the evidence of his senses. Let him refer
to a map of the island, and he will perceive the
population huddled together within from half
to two-thirds of its surface, and ( where not
bounded by precipitous heights and rugged
shores) shut in by lines or works of defence.
such as those at Marsascirocco, St. Julianas,
Nasciar and elsewhere, — works now become
useless, although they still continue to bound
the generally inhabited part of the island,
through the force of habit and the situation of
the parish churches. This concentration was
caused by the insecurity of the people. In the
days of the Order, no inhabitant trusted him«
self to sleep on the coast unsecured by walls
of defence, as the solitary mansions of Spinola
and Selmoon, built in those times strong enough
to repel a sudden attack of corsairs, fully attest;
but, under British protection, the marine vil-
lages of St. Julian's and Sliema have sprung^

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44 PART I. HISTORY*

up, where the inhabitants enjoy the sea-breeze
without dread of being dragged from their beds
into slavery.

The truth is, that, without the protection of
a great maritime power, Malta must be con-
stantly exposed to aggressions, which can only
cease or become mitigated in proportion as
they reduce her to poverty, and leave her an
object of no temptation. The island is not na-
turally fertile but by the exertions of an indus-
trious population aided by a genial climate it
has been rendered highly productive^ through
the adequate protection enjoyed during the last
three centuries. That it was flourishing under
the Phosnichians, Greeks, Carthaginians, and
Bomans, the monumental remains would prove,
if the facts were not evident from the maritime
power of those nations combined with its favor*
able position ; but during the middle ages^
under the precarious sway of Arabs, Normans
and Sicilians the island fell to decay, and had
not recovered in 1530, when it was given
over by Charles V, to the knigths, who found
the place in a state of great destitution. This
fact appears from the report of the commission-
ers who on that occasion were deputed by ^e
knights to visit Malta. Among other remarks
they observed : '^ The island is continually ex*
posed to the rapacity and devastation of infidel
corsairs, who, without any dread of the castel^
freely enter both ports, and very often reduce

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BRITISH, 45

to slavery a great number of poor Maltese. "
The population has been estimated (1) to have
consisted at this time of about 25,000 souls in
both islands, and to have increased to about
100,000 during the following 268 years of oc-
cupation by the Order. This advancement in
population, and consequently in wealth, could
not have proceeded, had it not been guarded
by the maritime power of theknights,furnished
as it was by the catholic^ and respected by the
protestant states of Europe. Previously to their
sway, the two principal harbours seem, by the
extract iust given, to have facilitated invasions
rather than afforded defence, and an inner cove
was selected for the sea-ports, l^ut the knights
transferred their main position to the neglected
site on which Valetta now stands between the
two harbours, which in time became no longer
disproportioned to the extent of her commerce
and public establishments.

Nevertheless, the protection of the Order,
superior as it was to anything previously enjoy-
ed by the Maltese, was not of a nature, through
its continued course of warfare with piratical
states, to advance them far as a maritime peo-
ple. Notwithstanding the advantageous posi-
tion of the island, in the channel dividing the
eastern from the western portion of the Medi-

(1) Ransijat, "Journal du Si^ge et Blocusde Malte" p. 295.

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46 PART I. HISTOKY.

terranean, insecurity against depredators at sea
originally forced the Maltese to become a rustic
rather than a maritime people. Under the
knights, the people felt secure, considered as
a single body like a garrison confidently sus-
taining a siege, whose killed, wounded and
captured are not of sufficient number to effect
a marked impression upon the general features
of the place 5 but under the superior maritime
power of Great Britain, that security is felt by
each individual in his own person. ,

That there is still much room for improve-
ment in the condition of the lower classes here,
and great distress prevailing among them, is
too evident ; but whatever may now be the ex-
tent of misery, it may be confidently affirmed
to be less than it was in the time of the knights,
,if we merely consider the greater portiou of
wheaten bread at present consumed within both
islands. During the last years of the Order
the annual consumption of foreign wheat was
about 43,000 salms or quarters 100,000 in-
habitants ; at present it averages about 67,000
among 123,000 souls ; giving for each indivi-
dual 3.96 bushels now. against 3,44 formerly,
exclusive of the consumption from the native
harvest, which cannot be less at the present
day. As regards their future welfare, let us
hope that, as the Maltese are an industrious
people, who for their honesty, sobriety and
other excellent qualities will bear a comparison

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BRlTISHr' 47

with any nation upon earthy means may be de-
vised for mitigating the distress which many of
them continue to suffer through poverty. The
charitable disposition of the welthier classes of
Maltese is too well known to require being
pointed out ; but it may be remarked that an
extensive field still remains open to their bene-
volent exertion, by their uniting for the forma-
tion of some well concerted plan, adapted to
improve permanently the condition of the lower
orders of their fellow countrymen.

According to a statement extracted fi*om the
documents of the Land- Revenue Office it is
seen that between September 1800 and Decem-
ber 1829 the civil services of these islands were
supplied out of the revenues of the United
Kingdom with no less an aid than the net
amount of £ 668,666. 7s. 2d. sterling. (1)

These remarks conclude the comparison be-
tween the expenditure of the Order and that of
the United Kingdom, as defrayed in Malta.
The civil finances of the island under the Bri-
tish Government for the two years 1 836 and
1837 is as follows: in 1836 the revenue was

(1) For the foregoing account of the finances of Malta tin-
der the Government of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem I
am indebted to W. Thornton Esq. hj whose kindness I am
permitted to extract several paragraphs from his valuable
work on the subject, printed at the Government Press 1886
to each I refer the reader for the calculation of those sta-
tements, which for the sake of brevity I have assumed.

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48 PART I. HISTORY.

£ 96,892, 8^ lOi, the expenditure £ 89,224,10,
3i; and in 1837 the income was £ 103,124. 1.4.
and the total expenditure £97,497,1, 6i. The
chief part of the revenue is <ferived from
maritime duties and dues, and the proceeds of
landed rents belonging to the English crown ;
the interior taxes on the island last year amount-
ed only to £ 2.858, 16,34.

Since Malta has been under the dominion of
England, the inhabitants have enjoyed all the
rights and privileges of British subjects. Until
very recently, the direction of all public affairs
was vested in the hands of the governor, (I)
who is appointed to the office by the Home Go-
vernment and who was almost always appoint-
ed from amongst the list of generals of the
Army ; but in the year 1847, the Hon. Mr. Ri-
chard More O^Ferrall was appointed Civil Go-
vernor of these islands ; with distinct civil at-
tributions to the great satisfaction of the Mal-
tese, and a General was appointed to command
the Garrison. In 1851 the Hon. Mr. O'Perral
having resigned, the Civil Government was
vested in the hands of Sir. W. Reid. In 1835,
His late Majesty, William IV. was graciously
pleased to appoint a Council within these his

(I) When the British took possession of the Island, it was
stipulated, that the privileges of the Maltese should be pre-
served and their ancient laws continued. — They were then,
N. B., governed by their ancient laws. Sir A. J. Ball's let-
ter to Mr. Secretary Whindham, dated 28th Februaiy, 1807.

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BBITISH. 49

possessions, to advise and assist in the admi-
nistration of the government thweof ; which
Council consisted of six persons^exclusive of the
Governor, three of whom were at all times to
be persons holding offices within this islanci or
its dependencies, and the remaining Members,
persons not holding offices. The Senior Officer
in command of Her Majesty^s land forces in
Malta, the Honourable Chief Justice, and the
Qiief ^Secretary to Government were the three
official Members as aforesaid. The three un-
official Members were elected by His Excellen-
cy the Governor, two from out of the chief
landed proprietors and merchants of the island,
being H. M.^s native-bom-subjects, and the
third from out of the principal merchants being
british-born*scbjects who ought to have been
actually resident for a period of not less than
two years.

The Members of this Her Majesty's Council
enjoyed the freedom of debate and vote, in all
afi^rs of public concern that were brought un-
der their consideration in Council ; and whilst
Members^ were authorized to assume the ad-
junctive title of Honourable,

Our most gracious Sovereign Queen Victoria,
considering the Maltese as faithful and loyal
subjects of Great Britain, and recognizing the
reasonableness of their claims to a Popular Re-
presentation was induced, in the year 1849, to
grant them a reform in the Council of Govern*

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50 PART I. HISTORY.

luent^ a concession long desired, and granted
no doubt, in the full persuasion that their loyal-
ty and prudence, entitled them to such a'privi-
lege, as to have direction in all public aflFairs.
The Council of Government at present con-
sists of eighteen persons, holding oflSces with
the local government, and not holding offices.
The ten official members nominated by the
Crown are the Governor, the Senior officer in
command of H. M^s land forces, the Chief Se-
cretary to Government, the Crown Advocate,
the Collector of Customs, the Superintendent
of Quarantine, the Auditor of the accounts,
the Collector of Land Revenue, the Govern-
ment Cashier and th6 Comptroller of Contracts ;
and the eight unofficial members are elected by
the people, and are eligible every five years. The
members enjoy the same privileges, and title
as those of the late Government Council.

** We admit, that H. M,'s government in granting
the concession to the Maltese, did gi'ant them no more
than a simple minority in the Coimoil, and yet we are
inclined to suppose that even this limited concession
would be displeasing to our author, who by his inju-
rious and suspicious remai'ks wished to set a trap for
ensuring the pix)perty, libei*ty and privileges both of
his Mother Country and of the Maltese people ; for, if
the Maltese, in ancient times under the Phoenicians,
Romans, &c., were governed by their own laws and

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BRITISH. 51

customs, enjoyed the right of suffrage in the Eoman
CouMcils, were eligible to any office in the Republic
&c., and at present under the British Nation and civi-
lization, though they "are industrious people, who for
their honesty, sobriety and other excellent qualities,
will bear^oomparison with any nation upon earth," yet
are deemed by our author, unfit to have such an esta*
blisment — as the Consiglio Popolare, indeed is nothing
but a disgrace to, and even an inconsistency with the
British Constitution, a direct opposition to the stipu-
lation made at the time of placing their Island under
the British protection, and contrary to the sacred pro-
mises of H. M/s representatives communicated to the
Maltese in differenift Proclamations ; " That His Ma-
jesty grants you full protection, and the enjoyment of
all your dearest rights. Happy people ! "

'* But on the contraiy we are well persuaded, that
the privilege granted to the Maltese by their gracious
sovei-eign of choosing a portion of the New Council, is
not meant as a fai-ce to amuse them for a moment and
then to be forgotten, but as an earnest of still gi*eater
concessions at a proper time. From the commence-
ment of the British Government's friendly demonstra-:.
tions, the same ci*y of contempt has our author raised
who for his own private ends, has put himself forwai'd
as the pretended champion of the Malta Religious Re-
fonnation. When the trial by Jury was instituted, it
was with him all sk farce for Malta and yet we fearlessly
assert that no country into which it has been introduc-
ed, appreciated its value, or understood its routine

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52 PART I. HISTORY.

sooner than the Maltese. When the liberty of the

press ^an granted^ the same ery was heard fromiiim
— What liberty of the press ? The Ord^nomce w dssiruetiw
^ that liberty which the la/uy is bownd t0 protect; in Malta
we want something els€ th(m sfbseh a slMcMed press. It
came into operation lM>wevery and has gone on for ma-
ny year? with as mueh credit and satis&tion as in any
Country that ever enjoyed the privilege ; and so we
confidently affirm, the still greater privilege which has
now been conferred on the Maltese^ as loyal a people
as any connected witii Great Britain. **

In the year 1836 in oonseqaence of a petition
from the Maltese to the House of Commons, a
Eoyal commission of Enquiry was appointed to
examine into the affairs of the Island, consist-
ing of two eminent gentlemen, Mr. J. Austin
and Mr. George Cornewell Lewis, who resided
in the Island for about eighteen months during
which time many alterations and reforms were
made in the local administrations* Freedom of
the press was amongst the first subjects that oc*
cupied their attention. The censorship was a-
bolished and an ordinance in Council was. pro-
mulgated on the 14th March 1839, to that
effect, under some provisions against abuses of
the liberty of publishing printed writings. Con-
sequently many journals and periodicals were
published the greater number of which ceased
after a miserable lingering existence^ but the

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fiBlTISH 53

Portafoglio Maltese^ the Mediterraneo, the Malta
Times and the Ordine have held on and promise
to continue in their present flourishing condi-
tion. — Many changes were effected in Customs
and other Dues^ duties on goods for tranship-
ment were suppressed^ and moderate fixed dues
were established on eight articles of necessity
and general consumption, thereby insuring a
fixed revenue to Government. The Charitable
Institutions were reorganized, several sinecure
situations suppressed, departments united, ex-
orbitant salaries diminished and natives declar-
ed eligible to occupy all public situations from
which they had before been de facto excluded. —
The only situations reserved for Englishmen
were those of Chief Secretary, First Assistant
Secretary and Auditor of Accounts. — Primary
Instruction was reorganized under a more effi*
cient system, and several schools were opened in
the country districts. The judicial departments
were remodelled and rendered more simple and
the Interior Police augmented and established
^ on the same footing as the English Police.

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PART SECOND

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

OF MALTA.

^aOOOOOOOOBO"^"^

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•Vm"^ OC

lililM'lJlllili

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T VO'. ^ >

-. , n i

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I='-A.ie,T SEOOJtTD.

DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

TOGETHER WITH A BBIEF OUTLINE
OF ITS PRODUCTIONS, CLIMATE, LANGUAGE, 4c.

Geogi-aphical situation and features of the Island.

MALTA^ in respect to its sitaation, is farther
distant from the mainland than any other
island in the Mediterranean. It lies in 35° 50'
of north latitude^ and 14^ 12^ east longitude
from Greenwich. It is 60 miles distant from
the nearest point of Sicily^ which bounds it on
its north between Capo Passaro and Camarano;
190 miles from Capo Spartivento, ike nearest
point of the mainland in Italy,and 200 from 6ali«
pia^ the nearest point of Africa ; so that by its
position, it may claim to be tm island appartain-
ing to Europe. It is about 60 miles in circum*
ference; its greatest width is twelve^ and length
twenty. Its longest day is 14 hours^ and 52^
minutes.

The two chief parts of the island are divided
by the oblong peninsula on which the town of
Yaletta is built. The Grand Harbour^ whidi is
to the east^ was about a mile and a half in

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58 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

length, and less than three quarters of a mile
in width at the mouth. This again contains se-
veral convenient creeks or small bays, where
even large vessels of war may ride safely at
anchor.

In the year 1859, this harbour was consider-
ably extended at its head at the Marsa. Its
waters are now divided between the Imperial
Navy and merchant Shipping, the so called
French Greek having been assigned to the
former, and the anchorage for mercantile Ship-
ping and private yards having been transferred
to the new N. W. Basin. An extensive dock
for the use of H. M^s Navy has been lately con-
structed in the French Creek in connection with
the other Dock which had been formed on the
site of the old yard of the Order. Vast and com-
modious wharves' have also been constructed in
the new harbour extension, sarrounded by stores
and other buildings requisite for commerce.

The entrance into this harbour is defended by
the forts of St. Elmo, Ricasoli, and thecastle St.
Angelo, BO that a forcible landing from this
quarter would be next to impossible, if the above
fortresses were properly supplied with men and
ammunition.

These fortresses are in connection with the
batteries of the two Barraecae^ and Fort Lasca-
ris, lately constructed on the site, where the
belvidere of the villa of the Grandmasters for-
merly was. .

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FEATURES OF THE ISLAND 59

The harbour to the west, called Marsamu-
scetto, is destined for vessels arriving from
places not in free pratique. Here they are ob-
liged to perform their quarantine, and hence
called also the Quarantine Harbour. This latter
is also defended by Fort St. Elmo on the one
side, and Fort Tigne on the other. The Fort
Manoel, which is built on a small island within
the harbour, is also intended to act upon its
entrance in case of attack.

Besides the harbour above mentioned, there
are several others in different parts of the island.
The principal of these are Marsa Scala, Marsa
Scirocco, Bir-Zebbugia and Saint Thomases
bay on the south-east, and the Bay of St. Paul,
St. Julian and Melleha on the north-west. Each
of these defended by a small forfc, garrisoned
at present by a detachment of the Malta Fenci-
bles. Besides these forts, there are several
others built round the coast, in order to prevent
smuggling, and to give the alarm in case of th«
appearance of an enemy off the island.

Around these creeks where formerly only
very few buildings were to be seen, fine build •
ings have been raised, and villages formed, the
principal of which are those of Sliema, St. Ji?-*
Han's, Melleha, Marsascala and Bir-Zebbugia^
With the exception of this last one, which is of
more recent formation than the others, these villa*
ges are inhabited by a fixed population besides
that residing there during the summer months.

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60 PART U. DESCmWlON OP MALTA4

Most of the southern coast of the isbiid is
by nature inaccessible. The rocks^ rising up
perpendicularly from the sea to the height of
three hundred feet^ form a natural fortification^
which it would be impossible to destroy. From
the general broken and rugged appearance of
many parts of the shore^ especially in this quar-
ter^ it is very probable that at some distant
period the island underwent several extraordi-
nary convulsions of nature j but the occasion of
such an event is probably beyond the reach of
histoiy or tradition. The other divisions of the
coast are low and rocky, and present a very
barren appearance.

FERTILITY and PRODUCTIONS.

Soil — Cultivation — ^Industry of the inhabitants— <;orn —
Cotton — Clover — Fmits — Pigs — Singular process in cnltiTa-
tion of— Supply of wa4»r— Oatfcle— Foul— BircUi— Fish;^

Notwithstanding the stony soil of Malta the
culture with is bestowed upon it renders it
very fertile. The mould is not remarkably rich
nor very deep in any part of the island. On
many of the hills and rising grounds the fields
are enclosed by stony walls, built up so as to
form terraces, in order to prevent . the heavy
rains of winter from washing away the soil, and
preventing the cattle from entering them. These

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FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS* 61

walls, which are formed of the broken stones
from the quarries of the island, give the coun-
try a very monotonous appearance; while their
bright colour reflects back the rays of the sun
in summer, and renders the heat much more
powerful.

The chief productions of the island are corn
and cotton. In some parts the land yields 40
and even 60 to one of the former while in others
not more than from 12 to 25. This fertility
must be attributed as well to the industry of
the Maltese farmers, as to the natural richness
of the soil. Indeed, the industiy of the coun-
try people in cultivating their little island is
surprising. The land is never permitted to rest,
but is laboured and sown year after year with-
out intermission. Wheat is sown every alter-
nate year with barley and clover about the
month of November; the harvest commences
in June. The barley is gathered about the
month of May. After this crop, the fields are
sown with cotton, melons, cummin, sesam and
other seeds. By this process, the land is not
exhausted, and should it appear to be getting
poor, instead of barley, peas, beans, Indiancorn
is substituted.

The cotton of Malta is of a very fine quality,
and forms the chief article of export. It is of
two kinds, distinguished by their colours, one
being white, and the other of a dark nankeen
colour. This plant is sown about the end of

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62 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

May, and gathered in the yearly part of Sep-
tember when the rain begins. In the year 1801,
the value of raw cotton produced in these islands
amounted to about half a million sterling. From
various causes, however, especially the new
discoveries of machinery for preparing this ar-
ticle, and the abundant supplies from Egypt,
from whence it can he procured at a cheaper
rate, the value is fluctuating. During the re-
cent Civil War in America, its price attained
an unusual figure, from which fact the agricul-
tural class derived considerable profits. The
seed of this plant is used by the inhabitants for
fattening their cattle, and I remarked that the
same custom prevailed in the east, it being the
chief food which the Arabs of Syria and Pales-
tine give to their camels.

A fine species of clover, called by Linnaeus
"hedysarium coronarium^^ with a red flower, is
very abundantly produced in this island during
the rainy season. The appearance of the fields
when this plant is in blossom is really delight-
ful. It grows to the height of from four to five
feet, and forms green forage for horses, mules,
&c., in winter, and what remains is put up and
dried to be used as hay in summer. The other
provender given to cattle is barley and carobs:
both which are raised in the island, but not in
sufficient quantity for the consumption. The
carob or locust abounds here, and is one of the
few trees which are green all the year round.

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FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 63

It is found scatfcered about the country, and
grows in the most stony and rooky soil. Many
of the poorer classes use this fruit as an article
of food, and when baked in the oven possesses
by no means a disagreable flavour.

Besides the above, Malta affords a great
abundance of vegetables and fruits. In fact, it
would be a surprising sight for a stranger to
stand without the gates of Fortes des Bombes,
before sun-rise during the fruit season, and see
the numerous carts laden with rich supplies of
the above articles waiting for admittance into
the city.

The market, at this time, is well stocked
with strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes,
apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots,
plums, melons, and prickley-pears, which are
sold at very low prices, and upon which many
of the poorer classes, who are unable to pur-
chase other food, chiefly subsist. The oranges
of Malta ar justly prized for their excellent
quality; and the great quantities which are ex-
ported to England and other countries, show
the esteem in which they are held abroad. The
season continues for upwards of five months,
from November to April, during which time
these beautiful trees are covered with abundance
of fruit. The egg and blood oranges, and the
so-called Mandarins are considered the most
superior. The former has been produced ac-
cordingto some, by ingrafting the commonoran-

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64 PABT II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

gebudon a pomegranate stock; but this opinion
is quite unnatural^ and requires evidence to
sustain it. The grapes also are excellent^ but
the island does not produce more than sufficient
for its own consumption. A large quantity of
vines were destroyed after the repeal of the
law of 1838 on the subject of the distillation
of spirits. The first fig, which is called baitra
ia San Juan or St. JoWs fig, because is gene-
rally ripe about the anniversary of the feast of
that saint^ is of a large size, much larger than
I ever met with in any part of the East. About
the latter end of July, three other kinds ap-
pear, of a smaller size, but of a more delicious
flavour ; one of these is white, and the other
two are of a black or dark purple colour called
by the natives farketsan and parsotL A little la-
ter, a second crop from the tree of the first large
fig is ripe ; but this is of an inferior quality and
not held in much esteem.

It is to be observed that the fruit of the
country, being the produce of a vegetation
growing on an arid soil, is more succous and
sovoury than that of any other damper region.
The melons and pears of Malta are justly held
in much esteem.

A peculiar process in the treatment of this
fruit is worthy of remark ; an^ the necessity of
its adoption in some countries, to the exclusion
of others, is a question which the curious may
find it interesting to determine. When the figs

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FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 65

are advancing towards maturity, in order to
prevent their falling off, and to hasten the
ripening, a cluster of male iBgs is suspended
upon the branches of the female tree, by means
of a plant (Ammi majus) called on this account
Dakra, which effectually secures them from
the danger, and soon effects the desired end.
The male tree is called by the natives dohltara ;
and so many small winged insects are generally
found in the fruit upon opening, it is the firm
belief of the country people that the tree gene-
rates them. I have heard several opinions ad-
vanced on the subject, but the most rational
way of accounting for it, is, that these small
flies, which abound about all kinds of fruit
trees, entering into the male fig, get clothed
with the pollen with which the .stamina on the
inside is covered, and, carrying it with them
into the female fig, produce that natural condi-
tion which is necessary for the effectual gene-
ration of fruit.

Attempts were made during the government
of Sir Fred. Cavfendish Ponaonby to cultivate
th9 cochineal in these islands ; but the attempt
failed, as the climate was not found to be ^fa-
vourable. More recehtly, also much has been
done in regard to the rearing of silk-worms for
which numerous trees were planted during the
government of the Marquis of .Hastings ;
but, although the silk produced was of an ex-
cellent quality, it was found that the trade

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66 PART ri. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

would not torn, to profit^ as the worms did not
thrive, and has therefore lately been aban-
doned.

The land is supplied with water by the va-
rious wells and springs which are found on the
island.

The spring-water is derived from about 80
springs of different sizes. The principal of
them are received into two Aqueducts which
supply water to the towns at an average rate
of not less than 500 Imperial gallons per mi-
nute.

Of the latter there are a great many, besides
numerous cisterns in almost every field through-
out the country. These together with the
night dews which fall during the spring and
summer months are sufficient to render the
ground fertile and abundant, because the soil,
being very shallow, is soon moistened through;
and as the rock below is of a soft porous nature,
it retains what is over and thus keeps the
roots perpetually moist. Were this not the
case, there would be no crops at all in sum-
mer, the heat of the sun being so exceedingly
violent.

In regard to cattle, the greater part for the
consumption of the island is brought over from
the Barbary States. Oxen^ especially, are im-
ported from that quarter, and after being fed
here for a short time yield very excellent beef.
The matton is less valued, as it is much poorer

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FERTILITY AND I^RODUCTIONS. -67

on account of the little pasture there is for cat-
tle in the country. The sheep, however, are
very prolific, often bringing forth four lambs,
and scarcely ever less than two. The goats are
of a superior quality, very large, and yielding
abundance of milk. It is the custom for the
milk- man to lead about his goats in the morn*
ing and evening through the streets, in order
to serve any who call for him; he then kneels
down at the door, and milks the animal before
the customer. The milk of sheep is used par-
ticularly for making curd; and in Gozo, a very
pleasant kind of fresh cheese, with which it
supplies* our island, is produced from the same.

The asses and mules of Malta and Gozo are
very remarkable fortheir extraordinary size and
the symmetry of shape. These animals form
the chief vehicles for carrying burdens and for
draught, and not unfrequently are seen yoked
with oxen engaged in treading out corn. The
Maltese are in general very careful of their
beasts, and take care to supply them with a
sufficiency of food.

The race of Maltese dogs, so much renowned
in Europe, and called hichons by Buffon in his
Natural History, is now nearly extinct. They
are very small, with long glistening hair reach-
ing down to the feet, a face covered with the
same, and a turned up nose. I acknowledge
that I can see but very little beauty in these
dwarfish creatures, and am led to think it is

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68 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

only their rarity which fixes their value at so
high a price ; they are sometimes sold for forty
dollars.

Fowls, turkies, ducks, geese, rabbits and
other domestic birds and animals are always
found in the market, though not of a very supe-
rior quality. Game is less plentiful, except in
the months of September and April, when there
are generally a great many quails, which
light upon the island in their flight, and are not
unfrequently caught by the hand. Wild ducks,
snipes, fig-peckers, woodcocks, plovers and
doves form the chief game for sportsmen.

A worthy Governor of these Islands, the late
Sir William Eeid, had, in the year 1851, insti-
tuted Agricultural Exhibitions to be held at the
Boschetto on the popular festival of St. Peter
and St. Paul, with the view of promoting the
agricultural industry and productions of the
country. This Exhibition, which is still held
annually, is conducted by the Agricultural
Society, an institution, which by means of ins-
truction and the distribution of prizes, has
greatly improved local Agriculture and increased
the productions of the country. Another an-
nual exhibition for Floriculture is also held
by the same Society at the Upper Barracca in
Valletta,

The harbour and the surrounding sea yield
abundance of fish, of which there is seldom any
want. Mullet, whitings, tunny, sword fish, eels

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FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 69

and various others of the crustaceous genus,
such as lobsters, crabs and shrimps are the
principal supply of the market. Of the testa-
ceous kind, oysters are found in great plenty
as also several species of the cardium or cockle,
the ve7iu8 the fellina and the patella, of which
the natives are very fond.

The phola daetylics or sea-date, is also ano-
ther species very much esteemed by the inha--
bitauts. It is found in soft lime-stones taken
out of the sea, and in such quantities, that I
have seen* fifty extracted from a stone not more
than a foot square. It is of two kinds, one with
a brown and the other with a white shell ; the
latter is very phosphoric. The late signer
Gaetano Trapani, a Maltese gentleman, has
published a very interesting catalogue in five
languages of the fish to be met with at Malta.
He numbers about 150 different species.

In the year 1866, oyster-beds were estab-
lished in various parts of the coasts for the pur-
pose of ensuring the supply of that testaceous
produce.

The argonauta argo or Paper Nautilus, is
sometimes found here, but I have never seen it
together with the animal. The shell is of the
broad keel species.

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70 PART H. DESCBfPyiON OP MALTA.

BOTANY (1).

The indigenous plants of Malta, or such as
grow spontaneously on these islands, are per-
haps more numerous than might be expected,
from the dry nature of the soil, and the small
extent of uncultivated ground existing. Dr.
Zerafa, in his Plorj; Mdlitbnsis Thesaurus,
enumerates 644 species of plants.

Deducting from this number those which are
cultivated, and adding the omissions, the whole
number of indigenous plants may not per-
haps be very far from 700. A great portion of
them, as the situation will naturally lead to
expect, are maritime plants, common to the
Mediterranean in general. Such, however, as
require a sandy beach, are comparatively few :
as Polygonum ynaritimurrhj in St. Georges bay ;
Gahile JEgyptiacum, in the bay of Melleha, Eu-
phorbia Peplis, E, Paraliae, E. Terracina and
Eryngium maritimum at Melleha and Gozo ;
Pancratium illyricum, Gozo. One of the most
common maritime plants of Malta, and men-

(1) For this interesting article of Botanical production and
rarities of Malta, I am indebted to my mnofa esteemed friend
Mr. P. Brenner, who has bestowed mnoh attention to this
branch of science, particnlarlj as connected with this island.
I believe that were he to publish all the information which
he has collected on this delightM subject, it would be con-
sidered as a Talaable aof^uisition by alKateArs.

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BOTANY. 71

tioned by Dr. Zerafa, is the lowly Grucianellu
maritima, which blossoms in May and June: the
strong aromatic perfume of the flowers of this
plant after sunset^ betrays it at a distance. On
the rock, especially on the southern coast, are
particularly to be noticed, Hypericum, .Sigyp-
tiacum, and Anthyllis Hermanniae.

Malta is remarkable for its richness in plants
belonging to the natural order Paplllionareoe,
the Diadelphia- Decandrian of Linnaeus. Of this
the genus Trifolium counts the greatest num-
ber of species, among which the most interest-
ing ones are T. subterraneum and T, suffoca-
tum both not mentioned by Dr. Zerafa. Then
the genuses Medicago, MelilotuSy Lotus and
Ononis. The genus Euphorbia contains like-
wise a considerable number of species. Many
different kinds of thistles are met with in Malta,
of which the most formidable in appearance is
the wild artichoke, Gynara Gardunculus. Re-
markable for its venomous quality is the stalk-
less and the Garlina lanata for its fine purple*
coloured flowers. Among^ the family of the
grasses, which Malta contains a great variety,
one of the rarest and most curious is I/ygoum
spartum, found at St. PauFs bay, Mtahleb,
Pauara, &c. With regard both to abundance
and elegance the Stipa Tortilis, by Dr. Zerala
erroneousiy called Stipa pinnaia, is conspicuous.
Aromatical plants of the natural class Laiian^
florae or DydinarrUa gymnoapermia of Linnaeus.

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72 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

are but few here, as Mentha pulegium, Melissa
mari folia., Thymbra hirsuta. The flowers of the
latter are said to give the Malta honey its pe-
culiar flavour. The plants are gathered and
brought into town in large bundles for fuel.

Owing to the mildness of the climate, there
is no intermission of vegetation all the year
round, and consequently every month produ-
ces its peculiar flowers. The beginning of the
vegetable year may justly be counted from the
end of October, when the first rains have begun
to restore to the soil the verdure of winter and
spring. The first and most prominent flower
which then makes its appearance is the Rati-
nunculus huUatus, whose broad leaves and fra-
grant yellow flowers adorn all the uncultivated
ground during November and December. This
is immediately succeeded by the Bellis annua,
the white little flowers of which are so abun-
dant in December and January as to make the
hills and way-sides appear as if covered with
snow. Also its* much taller sister Bellis ail-
vesU'is is not unfrequently met with at that
season. The chief ornament of spring, how-
ever, is the pretty purple flowered Silene ciliata
which in March intersperses the white groups
of the BelHs, and gives the ground a most de-
lightful vivacity.

March and April are the months in which ve-
getation is in its most luxuriant state. Various
species of the natural classes Ensatae and Li-

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BOTANY. 73

Uacos, or the class Hexandria of Linnasus
bedeck the fields and hills at this season ; as
Asphodelus ramosus, Oladiolus communis, Iris
sirinchium, Narcissus Taxeta, Hyacinthus go-
mosus, Omithogalum Narhonense, and 0. Ara-
bieum; and in May several species of the in-
teresting clafes OrcMdece. The plants which
blossom during the summer belong for the
most part to the natural class Gom}iositce or
Syngenesia superflua Linncei, with yellow flo-
wers, and are almost .exclusively maritime
plants. For instance, in June and July : Gin-
crariamarlHrna, Gentaurea Melittnsis, Verbas-
cum undulatum (cl. Labiatiflorae,) Gapparis
sativa (cl. Rhceadeaa) attiring with its large,
fragrant flowers the walls and rocks of fortifi-
cations of Valletta. In July and August : Inula
Crithmotdes, Grithmum maritimum (cl. Umbel -
lifloraB). In August and Sepfcember: Inula
foetida, Ambrosia Maritima, Scilla Maritima,
(cL Liliaceae) whose leaves appear in Novem-
ber and die away in May. In September and
October: Inula Viscosa and Erigeron graveolens.
A plant very common in Malta, bufc rare in
Europe, is the mean looking Evax Pigmea,
which blossoms in April.

The following plants are confined to parti-
cular spots, or are otherwise rare in Malta: Pu-
toria calabrica on a rock in the Uied el Ghasel;
Gonvolvulus calabrica, near Mtahleb; Gheran-
thus tricuspidatus, nearMaraaSciroccojTeucf'mm

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74 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

Scordioides, Helianthemum Fumana near Ger-
zuma; Hyacynthus romanus, at Faaara, Mtahleb^
and Mosta; Garthamus coernleus, at Mtahleb.
On the rocks overhcuiging the Fauara a plant
grows plenteously which Dr. Zera& called
Gerdaurea spattdatha, and about which some
remarks may be found in the Malta Government
Gazette of Feb. 20, 1833. On closer examina-
tion, however, it appears that it is no Centau-
rea. Several German Professors of botany who
examined dried specimens did not recognise the
plant. It may perhaps finally be made out to
be a new genus. In Gozo, the so called Gene-
raFs or Fungus rock, is peculiarly remarkable
for various plants not found in other parts of
Malta and Gozo. Besides the well known Cy-
naworivm eocctneum commonly called Fungus
Melitensis which blossoms in April and May,
there is the Gheirantus sinuatus, JDaucus Gam-
miferus, Onaphaliuni ambiguum and several
others. A great variety of sea-weeds m^ also
to be found along the rocky shore (1).

(1) See the excellent work on the local Botany lately edit-
ed bv the learned Prof. G. C. Grech Delioata.

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CLIMATE.

State of Thermometer — Sndden changes of temperatnro
Summer heat — South wind— Soirocco — Beanty of evening
sky — Winter — Thunder.

The climate of Malta has been variously de-
scribed by persons, who perhaps w^e infliieBC-
ed by the particular effects it produced on
their individual constitutions. This, though
very natural, is an unfair way of deciding the
general nature of the climate of any country.
The freedom of the island from any endemic,
disease, the ordinary good health enjoyed by
the natives, by the English, as also by foreign-
ers resident here, and the actual state of the
weathor throughout the year, go very far to-
wards establishing the salubrious nature of the
atmosphere.

During the summer mouths, the thermome-
ter generally shifts from 78o to 84o of Fahren-
heit, and towards the end of October sinks, to
70o . From this time, it gradually decreases
until January, when it varies from 58o to 51o.
below which it seldom falls, and again rises
about the end of February from 56o to 58o.
From March to May it generally ascends to
6 7o, and continues advancing until the latter
end of June when the summer sets in.

This range continues from one year to an-

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76 PART. II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

other without any important variation (1).

The time however, in which one is most af-
fected by the heat or cold, is not that which
marks their extremes on the thermometer.
That there is an almost continual contrast
between our sensation and the instruments
which measures the true temperature of the air,
between sensible and real heat and cold, any
person who has resided in Malta for a few
years will have discovered. The heat is some-
times very oppressive when the thermometer is
comparatively low ; and the same remark holds
good in regard to the cold in winter, when it
is comparatively high. This may be attributed to
the direction of the winds, their sudden chan-
ges producing a less or greater degree of heat
or cold according to the quarter from whence
they blow, and their violence modifying the
sensations which they cause us to feel. The wind
from the north west always brings freshness,
while that which blows from the south produces
an increase in the heat.

Rain has been known to fall in summer, but
is of very rare occurrence. The heat however,
is generally tempered by the north and north-
westerly winds, which prevail during the hot

(1) The average annual temperatnT6 of Malta is 67o. 8. Se«
the ahle researches *' Sulla temperatura dell' Atmoefera in
Malta," 1841. hy Dr. Saverio Schembri, Rector, of the Uni-
▼ersit/ of studies.

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CLIMATE. 77

months, and which render the evening delight-
fully pleasant. Though there are some times
heavy falls of dew during this season, the na-
tives do not find it iujurious to sleep out in the
open air, which is quite customary with ^nany
of the poorer classes, without any bed or cover-
ing. When the south wind prevails in sum-
mer, the heat is very oppressive ; the atmos-
phere assumes a hazy appearance, the air has
sometimes a disagreeable odour, and its effects
on furniture and book-covers, which it cracks
and warps, are very destructive. After this
wind has lasted for a day or two, the air be-
comes quite still and confined,and the sensation
felt is exceedingly uncomfortable. It is well
that this state never continues for more than
three or four sucQOSsive days, and that it is not
of frequent occurrence. This wind, which pas-
ses over the arid plains of Africa, is not puri-
fied from the corrupt miasma which it contains
by crossing the sea, as the straits are so narrow
between this island and that continent.

The wind, which has procured a bad name
for Malta by foreigners, is the southeast,
usually called the Scirocco. It is most prevalent
in September, yet unfortunately is not confined
to this month alone, but occurs occasionally
throughout the year. Persons with diseased
lungs suffer more or less from its consequences;
and hence Malta is by no means a healthy place
for such as are inclined to consumption.

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78 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

Strangers, in general, are affected during the
prevalence of the Scirocco with great lassitude
and debility, which indisposes the system, and
renders it liable to suffer from dyspepsia. The
natives, however, seldom complain of its bad
effects on their constitutions, but more of the
inconveniences which it brings to workmen
and mechanics. Any thing painted when this
wind blows will never set well, glue loses much
of its. adhesive property, bright metals become
tarnished, and from the dampness of the at-
mosphere the pavement of the streets is some-
times quite wet. Though this wind has occa-
sionally held out for a week together, it seldom
last more than three days successively.

The delightful appearance of the evening
sky during summer is a phenomenon in the cli-
mate of Malta which deserves mentioning. A
little before sun-set, and during the interval
which elapses between that and dark, the whole
western horizon exhibits a beautiful yellow,
tinged with a variety of hues, which is truly
grand. It is not uncommon for light clouds
to intermingle in the scene, and occasionally
rapid flashes- of lightning to continue for
several hours together, which shining beneath
the clouds, whose dark edges become more
plain from the bright glare imparted to them,
and an increasing grandeur to the prospect.
Perhaps this sight is not exceeded in magnifi-
cence by any appearance in the atmosphere.

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CLIMATE. 79

except the Aurora Borealis of the North-
The winter of Malta is very temperate^
though the cold is sometimes exceedingly pe-
netrating. This proceeds from the north wind,
which is very prevalent during this season, and
by the continued motion which it communicates
to the air, incessantly renews the volume of it
by which we are surrounded, and causes a sen-
sation of cold which is very acute. That this
is the case is proved from the fact^ that upon
removing from its action, the effects are imme-
diately diminished. The north-east wind known
by the name of Gregale, which blows directly
into the mouth of the hs^rbour, has occasionally
been sufficiently strong to drive a first rate
man - of - war from her moorings. These
gales sometimes come on so suddenly, that time
is not given to make any provision ' against
them ; and consequently it is not an uncommon
occurrence for vessels lying at anchor to be
injured by the violence of the storm, although
the harbour is one of the safest in the Medi-
terranean.

Bain falls very plenteously here in winter,
and occasionally hail, but snow never (1). Very
rarely does the rain continue for several days
in succession^ and it is quite common to enjoy

(1) The annual pluviometrical average is 18 inches. See
Professor G. 0. Grech Delicaiia's interesting pluviometrical
obaervaition.

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80 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

delightful clear weather in the coldest season.
Storms are not frequent^ and then not very
violent; although there is in general much
thunder during the winter. In cases when the
claps are of long duration^ and are known by
their sound to be in vicinity of the island^ all
the bells of the churches are made to ring. This
however, is generally delayed until the clouds
containing the electrical fluid are in the zenith
from which^ as it is natural to expect, they soon
pass away and with them the lightning and its
consequences.

POPULATION.

Number pf — Imporerished state of — Cause of the foregoing
— ImproTidence of the people — Want of edncation — Bad sye-
tem of tctaohing Mechanics — ^Absence of a spirit of enterprisa
in the gentry — Character of the people by a Spanish author.

The island of Malta for its size contains a
denser population than any other part of the
habitable globe. According to this statement
it appears that upon a given space of ground
where England contains 1 52 souls, Malta con-
tains nearly eight times the number. The as-
surance of an easy subsistence is in general ,
considered the most natural cause for the in-
crease of the population of any country ; but,
in the present case, I do not think the axiom

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POPiaATION. 81

will hold good. Notwithstanding what has
been said concerning the fertility of this Is-
land^ it is after all only a rock^ and incapable
from its size to afford adequate means of sup-
port to so crowded a population. In these
two facts^ the disproportionate number of in-
habitants to the extent of soil possessed^ we
must look for the cause of the present impo-
verished state of the island. It is true that the
lack of the produce of a country may be com-
pensated by manufacturers and commerce; but
of the former Malta has no resources^ and her
commerce^ in spite of every attempt to increase
it, remains stationary, and was certainly very
materially failed during the last twenty or
thirty years. In this respect, however, it is
not alone ; a general torpor has seized the trad-
ing world in this quarter for some time back,
the several causes of which I do not iutend, as
I am unable to explain.

In the report of the late Commissioners sent
out to inquire into the grievances of the Mal-
tese, they state the cause of the impoverished
condition of the island to arise from *' impro-
vidence of the people in multiplying their
numbers beyond the demand for their la-
bour/* Nothing can be more true than this
fact; no sooner does a lad arrive at the state of
puberty, than he begins to think of marriage
before he has made any provision at all for
maintaining a family. The present system of

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82 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

endowing females is the canse of the most di-
stressing consequences^ as in numerous cases it
is the only attraction which a young woman
has {of an individual who seeks her as his wife.
However small the sum may be, very few are
chosen but such as have something. This, when
once in the hands of an idler, is soon spent in
some hazardous project or speculation, if not
in vice; and when he finds he can procure no
more, either from his wife or her relations, he
leaves her to her fate, either to be again receiv-
ed under her parents' roof, or to seek a living
for herself and family in the best way she can.
This is not an exaggerated picture of very
many cases in Malta; and besides this, if the
computation were made of the number of fema-
les at present on the island, whose husbands
have left them for a foreign land, I believe it
would not fail to astonish.

To the above, however, we may add the want
of education as another cause of the poverty of
the island. The overplus population which
finds an asylum in the Barbary States, in B-
gypt, Syria, and in Turkey are chiefly of one
class, consisting almost exclusively of labourers
who have already more than satisfied the de-
mand for their work, and are, consequently,
many of them even in a worse state thau their
poor countrymen at home. Were the case dif-
ferent, and those who emigrated from the is^
land, capable of underfcaking different branches

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POPULATION, 83

oflsboar, both of a scieiittfic as well as of a
mechanical nature/ there would be an increas-
ing request for their services, as there would
be more numerous situations which they would
be able to fill.

Here perhaps it will not be out of place to
mention the very bad system of training up
tradesmen and artisans which exist at Malta }
as this also, in connection with education, must
have a very important bearing upon the inte-
rests of a nation. Here, a lad is put into a
mechanic's shop by his parents, without any
kind of agreement how long he is to continue
at his business, or without any particular re-
quisition from the master he is about to serve.
It is commonly understood, that the boy is to
learn the trade in the best way be can* There
being no law on the subject, the apprentice is
at liberty to leave the master just when he
pleases, which often happens before he half
knows his business, and then endeavours to
set up for himself. Every one will see that
such a plan is attended with many disadvan-
tages, and calculated to repress improvement in^
the important branch of labour, of the mecha-
nic. Such tradesm^x, also, emigrating from
the island, cannot be expected to meet with
that good fortune which they would do were
they perfectly trained in their different bran-
ohes of labour. It is to be regretted that some-
thing like our apprentice system has not yet

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84 PART 11. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

been adopted in Malta ; it is certainly much
needed^ and could not fail to be prodnctive of
good.

Another cause for the poverty of the island
lies in the entire want of a spirit of enterprise,
so relevant of the interests of the lower orders
of society. Very few of those who possess
property think of kying it out in some way so
as to benefit their country ; but choose rather
to suffer it to lie by at a sordid interest^ or to
rust in their coffers.

, It is worthy of remark, that the number of
males in Malta is nearly equal to that of the
females. (1) This destroys the fidse idea, ge-
nerally received, that in warm climates more
girls are born than boys ; as it is also opposed
to the state of the population in many of the
northern and western countries of Europe.
This would doubtless be the case universally,
according to the analogy of nature, if various
causes did not operate to destroy its course*
The comparative little emigration which takes
place in Malta, and the temperance of the male
inhabitants contribute t6 miantain this regular
law of our world.

^^ The Maltese are in g^ieral of an ordinary
stature, strong, robust, of a brown complexion;
one may easily recognize in their character the

* (1) Aeoording to the last danans, tlie nhmber ol" males
was 60,450 and that of feiiiale« 6|;,040.

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POPULATION. 85

inflaence of the climate^ and that mobility of
sensation^ gesture and features which charac-
terize many people in the equinoxial regions of
Africa. They are full of fire, and endowed with
a penetrating imagination ; they possei^s very
lively passions, and are tenadoas in their opi-
nions, in their love and their hate. The action
of a hot climate, beneath an almost continually
serene sky, renders their physical and moral
character very expressive ; they do not know
how to conceal their real sentiments with the
mask of conveniency ; in as mudi that there
can be no where found men less disguised,
and whose character can be more easily gues-
sed by their physionomy." D' Avalos torn, i p.
60, 61.

LANGUAGE and EDUCATION.

Maltese language not derived from Fhcenioian — Attempts
to reduoe the Maltese to writing — Present system of Natio-
nal Education — Inconsistency of — Backwardness oi the ge-
neral mass of the people.

Notwithstanding the many attempts which
have been made to refer the present Maltese
dialect back to Phoenician original^ by produc-
ing a few words and phrases which are corre-
sponding in signification in both languages^
the basis upon whidi the hypothesis is formed
is too weak to sustain it against the abundant

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86 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

. ** to the contrary. We shall not •
ue almost necessary impossibility v.

.e exists against oar coming to any so
v^nclnsion on the subject, from oar inadequate
knowledge of the Punic tongue but shall draw
our inferences from the language itself as it
exists at the present day, which in its forms,
phrases, construction and idiom proves it to
be a dialect of the Arabic. We conceive that
if there are a few words which cannot now be
referred back to this source, this fact does not
destroy the abundant evidence which may be
broaght forth in the whole body of the lan-
guage. That there are such words we admit; but
that these have not become corrupted in their
etymology and pronunciation, cannot be prov-
ed any more than they can be shown to be a
part, or parts of the ancient Phoenician. The
vernacular Maltese comprehends the complete
Arabic alphabet, with the exception of some of
the dentals ; and the distinctive sound of the
gutturals has been preserved pure in many vil-
lages of the country, and in Gozo. In Valletta
this is not the case ; several of the gutturals
have been dropped, . and the whole dialect is
more corrupt, being mixed up with a greater
portion of foreign words, especially Italian.

Several attempts have been successively
made by different persons, within the last thirty
years, to reduce the Maltese dialect to writing;
but these efforts having been chiefly the effect

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LAKGUAGB AND EDUCATION. 87

of private exertion, without any support or
countenance from the government or the peo-
ple^ have all failed, whatever may have been
the comparative excellence of each plan adopt-
ed. This unsettled state of things, in regard
to language, has operated very much to the
prejudice of education among the people. All
instruction being communicated in the Italian,
the Maltese child cannot begin his studies on a
par with the children of other countries, be-
cause he must first learn a language entirely
dijQferent from his own, as a means of acquiring
the knowledge he seeks after. Under these
discouraging circumstapces, it is no small proof
of the natural abilities of the Maltese, that
many of them have by their talents and ac(][uire-
ments raised themselves to a distingmshed
rank in literature and science. While this
state of things exists, however, there can be
little hopes of the mass of the people making
any very considerable progress in respect of
education. The mother tongue is so implanted
into their nature, that centuries must elapse, or
some great change take place in the common
order of things, before any attempt to eradi-
cate the language of the people can be suc-
cessful.

Some small efforts were made to introduce
the Arabic as the chief medium of communi-
cating instruction in the government schools ;
and if the ultimate olgect of this plan should

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88 PART II. DBSCRIPTION 0^ MALTA.

b^ energetically followed up, in a diffei^nt
manner, there can be no donbt of its saccesp.
To say nothing of the advantages which wonld
accrue to the Maltese shoald be put into pos--
session of so extensive and nsefal a language
as the Arabic, it is the mother language of
their own, and consequently must be much
easier for their acquirement than any of the
western languages, which are entirely different
in their whole construction. The present plan
brought into use is briefly this: a new alphabet
has been formed for the Maltese dialect, con-
sisting of Roman and several Arabic letters, in
which the children are to be instructed so as to
be capiable of reading; this then is to serve as
a medium of studying the Italian, the English,
and the Arabic ! This is not all, the language
used is such a compound of distorted Arabic
and Maltese terms and phrases, that it forma
quite a new dialect, which without considerable
instruction no Maltese can understand I ! Who
will not at once see, that every attempt to in-
struct the generality of children, in so many
different and opposite tongues, must be render*
ed futile. It is preposterous, to think of
establishing any system for public education in
which the instruction is to be communicated
in no less tha;n four languages. The time ge-
nerdly allowed for a child to remain at school
will hot even suffice to acquire a tolerable
acquaintance with these; and when is he to

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LA){Q|;A0£ and EDCCAflON. 89

make any progress in that usefal knowledge
which will make him a respectable and valuable
member of society ? Tf the Italian has obtained
a partial footing in the town, it is an entire
stranger in the country, and ought to be ba-
nished from the national system of education
if it tends to increase the difficujities and incon-
veniences which exist without its addition. If
by the present plan the Arabic is proposed to
be the general language of the people, why
are they encumbered with another, which will
be of little use in such a case ? And why teach
the Maltese language ? The dialect is already
corrupt, and every eflFort to systemize it must
be calculated to fix it more deeply in the minds
of the children when on the contrary endea-
vours ought to be made at the onset for im-^
proving and bringing it up to the standard of
thai language which is to be made the general
language of the country.. To do this in Malta
would not be attended with much more diffi-
culty than in Syria, Egypt or Barbary, where
the written language is the classical Arabic^
but, the colloquial dialect, in many respects,
not better than the Maltese. It is to be hoped
that the present plan will be reformed before
being carried to any considerable extent.

The above circumstances have had their in-
fluence in restraining the progress of ednca««
tion among the people, which, generally speak-
ing, is at a low ebb. In many of the country

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90 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP BIALTA.

villages^ all the learning whidi exist is confined
to the clergy, very few besides being able to
read or write. In the town, besides the Uni-
versity and the Lyceum there is a Normal
school for boys and girls, containing upw^ds
of 500 children, and several others kept by
private individuals and by religious communi-
ties. In the year 1836 by the zealous and
praiseworthy efforts of Mrs. Austin, the lady of
one of Her Majesty's Commissioners for Special
Enquiry, four district schools were formed in
the country, which have been completely suc-
oeasfuL Later, Government having established
male and female schools in all the principal
villages and populous districts of Mlalta and
Oozo, and new infant schools, public education
has greatly extended. This is to be chiefly
attributed to the indefatigable exertions and
Beal of the present Director of Primary Schools
the Kev. Dr. P. Pullicino. Considering the
scanty means which the people enjoy of ob-
laining an education, we cannot wonder at
their backward state, though we by no means
inlead to applv this remark universally; for,
fts we have said before, there are not a few a-
mong the Maltese who distinguish themselves
by ih^ literary attainments.

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t::':,- ',.1 tW V -''■■'■' ''

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91
MUSIC, POETRY, and SINGING.

NatiTe moflical instrnmenis — Poetical composition — Songs
— ^Maltese Prorerbs, Ac.

The Maltese are not very rich in native mn-
sical instraments ; and in their choice seem to
hare preferred with the inhabitants of -Arabia,
finch as are more noisy than the softer instru-
ments of Arabs of northern Africa. Even
these, however, are getting into disuse, and
their place is being supplied by compiemies of
blind fiddlers who are almost in every village,
and whose performances, if exhibited within the
hearing of a man acquainted with the science,
would certainly put him into a position to serve
as an exact counterpart of Hogarth^s Enra-
^/Bd Musician. The tamburine, a species of
bog- pipe, the kettledrum, a hollow tube about
half a foot in diameter with a distended skin
over one surface, and round stick tied to the
centre of it, which is rubbed up and down with
the hand, causing a most monotonous sound,
(1) and several different shaped lyres, with
from two to four strings, — from the native
band of the Maltese country people. Of the
above, the bag-pipe or zaqq, as it is called, me"*
rits the most attention, as it is the most esteem-

(1) This instrament is called by the natiTes "rabhaba" or
"BavBaya,"

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92 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

ed. This instrument is formed of an inflat-
ed dog skin^ which is held nnder the left arm
with the legs directed upwards^ and having a
mouth-piece by which the slpn is filled and a
flute or pipe played with both hands aflixed to
it. This instrument is generally accompanied
by the tambnrineand a dancing company^ who
move their bodies in graceful evolutions or
ridicalouB gestures to the sound of the duet.
The accompanying sketch may convey some
better idea of this rustic amusement.

It is in use amongst the lower classes^ and
almost exclusively during the last three days
of Carnival.

However^ the Maltese greatly participate in
the musical taste of the Italians. There were
at all times musical composers who distinguish-
ed themselves in Europe for their high m4Ht
in the Art. Azzopardi, Bugeja an5 Curmi
obtained extensive fame by their compositions^
and Nicolo Isoward is considered as th# foun-
der of Italian melody in France^ wh^e his
^ame is historical. *

The Maltese have the peculiair talent for
poetry which is natural to all thosri nations
who speak the Arabic language. V^he taste
for this kind of oomposition has very h;Luch de-
generated in the cities, but in the country it is
me(i with in its original purity of style and
expression. I have often stood and listened
to individuals seated upon two opposite trees.

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MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 93

or engaged in some kind of labour^ singing
answers to each other in rhyme^ without any
previous meditation* This the natives call
taJcbeeL The subject vary according to cir-
cumstances^ sometimes partaking of the nature
of epic poetry, and sometimes of satire upon
the faults or character of each. The tunes set
to these are in general somewhat wild^ as is
the music of the Maltese in general, but a
wildness which is not without its romantic
beauty and harmony. In this respect, few will
fail to admire the siuging of the natives as
theyjoiu in small companies, each taking a
part, which they maintain throughout the
whole performance.

Several native writers have lately subjected
this popular poetry to the established rules of
the. Art, by the publication of lyric and epic
compositions, which they have happily applied
both to satire and to noveUwriting. The odes
by Professor Qio, Ant. Yassallo, Taylor^s Psal-
ter and other essays are worthy of admiration
for their elegance and vigour. Turning the
poetic ehm*ms of the native tongue to religions
use the Most Bev. Canon Mifsud Tommasi
composed a long series of sacred songs and
hymns, many of which are committed to me-
mory by the humbler classes. These essays,
however, on the language of the country^ are
not written with the intention of substituting
for Italian literature, which is the n?itional U-

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94 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

teratare^ the calture of a dialect systematically
prohibited from all civil transactions^ banished
from the Conrts of justice, from educational
institutes, and, in the cities where education is
of a higher grade, even from the pulpit. The
poetry and literature of the Island has been
and will always be the Italian, which is the
written language of the Maltese. The native
dialect properly appartains to the lower classes
of the people.

I here subjoin two popular songs for the
amusement of the reader, with a rough English
translation, in order that he may judge some-
what of i^uch amoi'ous effusions.

SONG.

Hanina seyr insiefer,
x Ja Jbosra ma niehdoJcfth mighi,

TAlek, Alia yati es-sahar,
U izommok flimhabba tight,

Izommok jU imhabba tighi,
Biesh deyyem tiftahar Jiyya,
Iftakar li yien habbeitek,
Mindu cont chkeiken tarbiyya,

Hindu kont chkeiken tarbiyya,
Kalbi kolla ingihdet leik ;
BV ebda daul ma nista nimshi^
Qhair biddaul ta sbih ghaiiieik.

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MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 95

Bid-daul ta sbih ghaineik,
Yien mesheit il passi tighi;
Hanina seyr inaiefer,
Ja hasra ma niehdoksh mighi,

Meta niftakar li yiena seyyer,
Dad-dtUur sfi' yigini kbir ;
E? Alia iridy o hanina I
Ohad tgaiidini u ingaudik.

Translation.
Beloved, I'm about to leave you
I sigh that I take you not with me.
May God give you now resignation,
And preserve you secure in my love. —

And preserve you secure in my love.
That you ever remember me ;
Bemember, I always have loved you;
Since the time I was but an infant.

Since the time I was but an infant.
My heart has always been drawn after you
And I can walk in no other light.
But the light of your beautiful eyes. —

In the light of your beautiful eyes,
I have always directed my steps ;
Beloved I'm going to leave you,
I sigh that I take you not with m^e.

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96 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

How sore does the pain come upon me.
When I think I must soon depart ;
But if Heaven be propitious, my dear.
We shall yet enjoy one another.

The following verses, which were furnished
me by a Maltese lady, I insert chiefly for the
sake of giving the reader an idea of the man-
ner in which matrimonial alliances are entered
into by a portion of the town people. The four
persons introduced in the song are, the young
man, the hottaba, the mother of the young wo-
man and the young woman herself. In order to
render the piece intelligible, it will be necessary
to remise, that it is not customary for a young
man unacquainted with the lady with whom he
has fallen in love, to declare his passion in per-
son, neither would he be allowed to enter into
her parents' house; but he employs a third, ge-
nerally an old woman, who takes upon herself the
office of endeavouring to bring about the match.
This character is called a hottaba, and is always
possessed with an exquisite gift for flattery ;
a specimen of which will be readily noticed in
the song. I give a literal translation, in order
better to preserve the native idiom and phra-
seology.

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MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 97

SONG.

Tridu iafu shbeiba sV taghmel,
Min fil ghodu sa fil ghashia,
Taghmel il hoUi f' rasa,
U toTcghodldk fil gallaria,

Tokghodlok fil gallarm,
Tibdrt taghmel in-namoor,
Meta tcira V omma geja,
Tibda ikoffloTc il maktur.

II giuvni tisla u niezel,

Halli yara hemsh shi shiha.,
Yibda tiela min fuk sisfel,
Ohash mairidsh yibka bvr-riha,

Intaka ma nanna shiha,
Kalla : mara tridsh takdini,
Fluai ma nibzash ghalihom,
Basta taghraf is-servini?

Sinynra donni nafek,

Kont cheihuna tokghod hdeiya,
Kem erfaifek, hem habbeitek,
Kem ghazziztek gmC ideya,

Sinyura donni nafek,

Yidirli ghandek ish'Shbeibiet,
Ghax kont ghaddeja mil hara ;
Yidhirli raitha hdein il bieb,
G

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98 PART II. DBSCRIPTION OF. MALTA.

Sinyura gheidli sh-ghandek,
Kem narcbc maUneonata.
Ara'sh hilufuk binti,
Illi gid binti namrata:

lahot, Sinyura, iskot^

Ilsna tan-nies tghid wish shorti ;
Dilcu bintek tifia taiba,
Min yihoda ikollu ehorti.

Jnsiel, binti inzel,
Hauna nanna trid tarak,
Tinsab mara wish antica,
Id VMiema tik-Jconslak.

Bisposta yiena gibilejc,
Ohrafees yiena irrid,
Baghatni il mahbub ta kalbek,
Li bil piena yinsab marid.

Bisposta inti gibtli,

Ohrafees le ma natiksh ;
Dana il giuvni ommi tafu,
B' zeugi niehdu ma tridnish.

Translation.

Intr, Would you know what a maiden does.

From morning until evening? —

She adorns her head with curls.

And seats herself in the balcony.

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MUSIC, POBTBY AND SlNOINjQ. 99

She seats herself in the balcony^
And sets aboat making love ;
When she sees her mother coming
She begins hemming her handkerchief.
The yonng man walks up and down^
To see if the old woman is there^
He traverses (the street) from one end

[to the other.
As he does not wish to remain with the

[smell (1).
He meets with an old grandmother,
And says j " woman will you help me,
I care nothing aboat money.
So as thab you are able to serve me? '^

The bargain is struck^ and the broheress goes
to the house, of the young woman, and meets
with the mother.

Hott. Madam, I think I know you.

When quite little you lived near me,

How oft I bore you,how much I lov'd you,

How oft I fondled you in my arms.

Madam, I think I know you,

I think you have several maidens.

For as I was passing through the street,

I saw one standing at the door.

Madam tell me, what ails you,

For you appear very melancholy?

(1) A Maltese idiom for expressing failure in an under.
taking.

498286^

100 PART II. BBflCRIPTION OP MALTA.

Moth, Do you know what they say ©rmy daugh-
That she is already in love. [ter^

HoU, Be easy^ Madam^ be easy^

People^s tongues say many things;
Your daughter is a good girl^
Whoever takes her will gain a fortune.

Moth, Come down, my daughter, come down.
Here's grandmother desires to see you.
She is a very old woman
And with her words she wiU console you.
The daughter descends and the old woman ad^

dresses her. *

Hott. A message I have brought you,
And wish one hastily in return.
For the beloved of your heart has sent
Who with pain is now quite ill. [me,

Daugh, A message you have brought me,
A hasty answer I will not give,
For my mother knows this young man.
And will not have him for my husband.

Besides the above, the Maltese have also a
large number of proverbs or adages in rhyme,
many of which preserve their strict Arabic ori-
ginal. These are still often used in conversa-
tion, but without any new additions, as the
taste for such composition has ^eatly degene-
rated since the introduction of the Italian lan-

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MUSIC, POETBY, AND SINGING. 101

gaage. The late Sig. Vassalli published a col-
lection of the proverbs^ some years ago, with
an Italian translation and explanatory notes,
which in the purity of their style and morals,
their figurative and enigmatical forms, contain
much of that good sense possessed by the fore-
fathers of the Maltese. '^ The whole of these
adages, maxims, sentences, aphorisms and
phrases,*whioh the natives have preserved from
time immemorable, by uninterrupted tradition,
form a species of national code, sanctioned
from time to time with the seal and authority
of the events or experiences of this or that pro-
verb, the truth of which is acknowledged as soon
as utterred/'

CX)STUMB.

Dress of the males — Dress of the females of the City —
Neatness of — Costnme of the country- women.

In regard to the male population, the Mal-
tese have in general adopted the Prank cos-
tume ; but the native dress, which is still worn
to some extent by the lower clas'a of people in
the town, is somewhat dissimilar, though very
peculiar. The chief difference is in the cap,
which resembles a long bag made of wool,hang-
iug down behind, and dyed with various colors.
This article often forms a receptacle for small

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102 PART IT. DE8CBIPTI0N OP MALTA.

articles which the wearer wishes to carry about
with him, and sometimes serves all the purpo-
ses of a purse. I observed the same kind of
cap used among the Maronites of Mount Le-
banon.

The girdle round the loins is still in use
among the Maltese of the lower order; that
mei^e of cotton is called a terha, that of silk a
hushahka. With this the pantaloons are con-
fined round the waist, and is generally three or
four yards in length. There can be no doubt
that this is a relic of the oriental costume, in-
troduced into Malta by the Arabs.

It is not common to see any in this dress
with a jacket, its place being supplied by a
sedria, or vest, which, in many cases, is orna-
mented down the front with several rows of
round silver buttons, as large as a bird^s egg.
At other times, instead of these, the buttons
consist of large pieces of money, especially
quarter-dollar pieces and sometimes shillings
or 6d. with long shanks fastened on to them.
A Maltese cuts a very fine figure when he is
thus set off, or is in gala, as they express it,
with a long curl hanging down each side of his
face, and having his fingers covered with many
massy rings, of which they are particularly fond.

At the present day, the sandals are hot used
except by the country people; but there can be
no doubt that they formed apart of the ancient
native dress. These consist of two oblong pieces

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COUNTRY-MAN *. WOWAN .

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''JV.,,

\ ,',,-^,.,

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COSWME. 103

of untanned bulPd Wde^ drawli round the foot
with two strings of the Bame material, and are
called Jcorh. Some years ago, an old man used to
sit by the gate of Porta Eeale, and it was worth
while seeing the dexterity with which he shod
the country people who applied to him. The
whole was done in a few minutes ; for the cus-
tomer first laid' his foot on the extended hide
and after taking the dimensions by just mark-
ing the circumference, the old man cut it of!^
and making four holes in each piece for^ ea(fe^
gave him a pair of strings, and all was over.

Many of the working classes in the country
especially masons, wear over their shoulder
what they calla horg, in which they take their
provisions to town for the day, and carry it
home laden with the supplies for their family,
in the evening when their labour is over. It is
about three yards long and two feet wide, open
in the middle, so as to form a bag at each end.
The accompanying sketch will illustrate the
above description of the native dress of the
Maltese males.

It is observed however that during the last
few years especially, the national costume is
gradually growing into disuse, even with the
country people, and more particularly in those
villages near or in close contact with the town.

As to the costume of the ladies of the towns,
I fully accord with the observation of a Jesuit,
who passed through Malta in the latter end of

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104 PART II. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.

the last ceatary. He says/^eor d-marche et tear
habillement sent bI modestes, qa'on les prend-
roit poar des religieuses/^(l)I believe many, on
their first arrival at the island, have had the
same impression, that most of the females in
Malta were ^uns. It is rather to be regretted
that so many have of late adopted the English
costume, which is certainly far from being as
simple^ and by no means as modest and becom-
ing. The bonnet, especially, as well as the
gmtleman's hat, are quite unnatural append-
ages ; the one is satirically called an umbrella,
and the other a kettle by many of the orien-
tals (2).

The outer dress consists of a black silk petti-
coat, bound round the waist over a body of
some other kind of silk or print; this is called
a half onnella. The upper part is called the
onnella, and is made of the same material with
the former, drawn up into neat gathers for the
length of a foot about the centre of one of the
outer seams. In the seam of one of the remain-
ing divisions is inclosed a thin piece of whale-
bone, which is drawn over the head, and forms
an elegant arch, leaving the face and the neck

(1) Lettres Edifiantes et CarienBos. Tom. I. p. 315.

(2) As soon as the Frank costume was permitted to be
worn in Damascus, the natives were quite surprised at the
black hats, and so much were they shocked, at their unseem-
ly shape and size, that they hare ever since denominated an
European as ''Aboo Tanjara," the &ther of a pot.

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THE FALDETTA

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THE NEW V> 'hi:

puELic l;:;.!;auj

ASTOR. LFVOX AMR
TILDEN FOUNDATION)?.

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COSTUME. 105

perfectly open. The left arm is covered with
one part of this habit^ and the right is used for
keeping down the angle of the other. The whole
is extremely neat; bat it requires a pecaliar
grace in walking to show it off to advantage.
In this respect the Maltese ladies are not defi-
cient^ and here I beg to differ from Signer De
Avalos, who writes, "elles n'ont ni les graces
des femmes Francais, ni le maintien noble et
simple des Anglaises;'' (1) unless he had written
it concerning some of those who have adopted
the English costume to which they have not
yet become much accustomed.

The dress of the country women does not
essentially differ in shape, but the material is
generally striped or barred native cotton, of a
very substantial quality. The head dress is
called a tsholknaa instead of an onnella' The
douhlett is in shape the same with the half on-
nella, but on particular occasions, such as a
marriage or a christening, they put on the
gezuira, which is a kind of petticoat of blue
cotton striped with white, drawn up in very
thick creases round the waist, ond open on the
right side, where it is tied at different distan-
ces with bows of ribbon. The undermost habit
differs somewhat from that worn by the ladies
of the city, and is called a dale. This reaches
no farther down than the loins, upon which

(1) Tableau HiBtoriqne de Malte, vol. I. p. 77.

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106 PART II. DE^OBIPTION OF MALTA.

another garment is tied round the.wftist, an-
swering something to an under petticoat.

I have little doubt that the origin of the on-
nella nanst be sought for in the oriental rail.
Laying aside the great probability that the
latter was used in this island during the do-
mination of the Arabs, I have been very mnch
struck with the similiarity which there exists
between both, when the oTmella is made of
some thin cloth, and suflfered to hang down
carelessly behind the back. Modern civiliza-
tion and fashion, has, in ray opinion, made
this one barbarous appendage; one of the
neatest head-dresses among the costumes of
Europe,

The accompanying sketches will serve to il-
lustrate the above description.

AMUSEMENTS.

Processions: Good Friday — Easter Sunday — Festival of St.
Gregory — Curious article in marriage contracts — Feast of
St. Peter and St. Paul — Races — Carniyal — Parata — Origin of
— Giofltra or Slippery. pole — Boat race.

The principal recreations of the Maltese have
in general, some connection with their reli-
gious ceremonies. The numerous processions,
which however of late have been very much
diminished, afford opportunity to the stranger
of seeing every rank and class of the people,

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AMUSEMBNTS. 107

in their best attire^ congregated together in
crowds to witness the scene. The two chief
occasions when thpse ceremonies are of oppo-
site^ natures; one being that of Good Friday,
intended to celebrate the death and passion of
our Saviour, and the other the processioQ of
St. Gregory, which is continued until the pre-
sent day in commemoration of some signal pub-
lic deliverance. The former takes place in the
town on Holy Thursday. The train leaves the
church of ^a Q-iesu a little before sunset, the
fratelli and friars walking in file on each side
of the street, with huge lighted wax tapers in
their hands, and chanting as they follow the
statues, which are carried before them at equal
distances in the procession. These images are
in general of a large size, and represent the
various sufferings of the Saviour until he is
laid in the sepulchre; which last is a splendid
canopy, with rich curtains tassellated with gold
having a figure as large as life stretched be-
neath them. After traversing several of the
streets, the procession reenters the church from
which it came out.

Very early on Easter Sunday, before day-
light, a great crowd with lamps in their hands
assemble around the door of the Greek catholic
cl^urch, from whence they take a large image,
representing the resurrection of our Lord, with
a flag in his hand. With this they proceed
through Strada Reale, amidst the joyful accla-

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108 IPART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

mationsof thepeoplewho foUowit^ and upon their
arrival at the small church of the Vittoria^ a
gun is fired from the cavalier^ which is a signal
for a general run as far as the walls of the city.
After traversing several other streets^ they de*
posit the image in the same church from which
they took it. I would observe, that this pro*
cession is unattended by any of the plergy, ex-
cepting the Greek Catholic Priest.

The feast of St. Gregory consists of a proces-
sion composed of the frateUi (1) of all the
churches, the clergy of all the different parishes
of the towns and villages, the canons of the
cathedral, and the Bishop, who assemble to-
gether at the village called Gasal Nuovo, and
walk as far as Zeitun, the whole company joining
in the responses of the Great Litany, which is

(I) In order that the reader may understand what is meant
by this term, I would jnst observe, that oonnected with
almost every church is' a fraternity consisting of laymen,
who join themselves together by contributing a certain sum
yearly into a common fund, which is generally laid out
npon the church, or otherwise disposed of by them for reli-
gious purposes. Dach fraternity has a president, and meets
often in order to talk over the affairs connected with their
body, which generally turns upon decorating the church, or
their own particular altar, the ordering of illuminations,
processions, &c. Each fraternity wears a particular uniform
corresponding with their banner, which is generally borne
before them when they walk in prooession.

The fratelli of the convent of St. Domenico, under the pa-
tronage of the Madonna del Kosario, censists entirely of
persons who have some relation with the law faculty such as
advocates, notaries, in.

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AMUSEMENTS. 109

prononnced by the chief priest of each order.
On their arrival at Zeitun, they all visit the old
church of St. Gregory, where at a particular
part of the ceremony, the whole crowd exclaim
three times "Misericordia.'' Afterwards, some
of the people spend the remaining part of the
day in eating and drinking and varioas kinds
of amusements. The origin of this feast is in-
volved in obscurity; but it is commonly suppos-
ed to be founded upon a general vow of the
inhabitants, on their deliverance from a great
plague; some say a large swarm of locusts
which once devasted the island.

It was a common occurrence for country fe-
males to stipulate with their intended husbands
that they should take them once a year to see
the principal feasts of the island. St. Gregorio
is one of the above; and the bridegroom m^de
it a point, if possible, to become the stan-
dard - bearer in the processions of the lay
brethren of his village. This was considered
a great honor, and consequently the privilege
was held out to the highest bidder. The indi-
vidual who succeeded iu obtaining the prize,
agreed with his bride, that he would meet her
at the village where the procession terminates.

Among the many ludicrous songs and com-
positions used on the days of carnival the fol-
lowing is not uncommon, and as it alludes to
the custom I have just mentioned, I shall tran-
scribe it with an English translation.

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110 PART. U. DESCRIPTION OP MALTA.
U AGHRAYES YAOrKMLTJ IL PATTITET.

FU isantta matrimoniali
^ Yaghmlu il pattlyet coyugali.

Li yiehoda fil festi principali .
Tonsobhafuk il hait,
Yishtreelha shriek cuhhait,
Li icun tal cannebusa
Ghax minnu tiggosta isrsinyura gharusa^

Translation.
THE SWEETHEARTS' BAEGAIN.

In the wedding contract

They make conjugal agreements ;

That he (the bridegroom) shall take her to

principal feasts.
Shall set her upon the wall
Shall buy her a slice of sweetmeat,
Ifade up of hempseed,
For that's the kind which the bride like^ best.

Besides the above, there are several other
processions which take place in the town, the
principal of which are those of St, John and
St. Paul. On these occasions, the exterior of
the church dedicated to the saint is illuminated
with numerous lamps, and bonfires are lighted
up in several of the streets. The feast of St.
Peter and St. Paul, called by the natives
T/ Imnaria, celebrated at the Old City, is ano-
ther principal occasion of amusement. After

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AMUd£]M[£NTS« 111

the service of the churchy crowds proceed to
the Boschetto about two miles distant^ and
diyiding into companies, spread themselves
with the refreshments they bring with them,
while many of the country people amuse them-
selyes in dancing and singing, and many other
rural gratifications. Just below the city, on
this day, there is also a race of horses, mules
and asses, which are entirely unharnessed, and
the riders without any means of maintaining
their position except their legs, which they fix
under the animaPs belly, while with a thong in
each hand they belabour the poor beasts until
they reach the goal. Another race of this kind
on the feast of St. Rocco, is held at the Pieta,
outside the gates of Porte des Bombes, which
was instituted after the Islands were freed from
the plague in the year 1693. The prizes at
these races consist of large flags of various co-
loured silk, which the winners generally carry
about the streets the next day, together with
their animals covered with garlands of flowers
and ribbons.

The Carnival is another source of popular
amusement ; this begins on the Sunday preced-
ing Lent, and last for three days. The af«
ternoon is the principal time of the feast, dur-
ing which numerous persons in masks are seen
walking about the streets, endeavouring to
amuse themselves, and to be a source of amu-
sement to others. The variety of dresses used

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112 PART II. BMCBIPTION OP MALTA.

on these occasions is beyond description. Not
a few pride themselves in playing all kinds of
antics in a black habit^ with long red homs^
and a hnge tail of the same colour. Coaches
filled with ladies follow in a train through the
principal streets, who readily engage in pelting
confits and peap with any of the bystan*
ders who will enter the lists with them. The
number of respectable persons, however, who
mask in the public streets has greatly dimini-
shed within the last few years and it is to be
hoped, that their good example will soon bo
followed by an entire relinquishment of so ab-
surd and foolish a diversion. Though on the
other hand it is to be observed, that there are
very few countries so void of amusement for
the lower classes, like Malta. This is one of the
principal reasons why it would be difficult to
suppress entirely these Carnival follies. An
attempt on the part of the government to sup-
press the first day of Carnival (Sunday) in 1846
was attended with serious disturbances in fact
by a popular tumult, and was the cause of the
recall ot the then Governor Sir Patrick Stuart.
The first Sunday after the Carnival, most of
those persons who have masked repair to the
parish church of Casal Zabbar, called delta Ora^
zia, by way of penance for their follies.

On Saturday preceding the first day of the
feast, the Parata is celebrated. This consists
of several companies of men dressed up in gay

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AMUSK91XNTS. 113

rib1»oiis^ and armed with wooden staves and
shields^ who meeti together ander the houses
of the wealthy, and perform several evolations^
striking their shields and dancing at the sonnd
of music. This is concladed by raising up a
little girl, spendidly arrayed, and girded with
a small dagger, which is taught to wave while
the band plays the national anthem, '^ God
save the Queen, ^^ In time of the Order, they
proceeded to the palace to recdve permission
for the celebration of the Canuval. Their re*
quest was signified to the Grandmaster by one
of the knights, and upon the boon being grant-
ed, they immediately performed a dance in
front of the palace, and afterwards before the
door of any oth^ perso.n, whom they thought
would pay them for their troiuble.

The origin of this amusement must be sought
for in the annals of pagan rites, which
Christianity has not succeeded in abolishing in
several countries of Europe. In a work on
Malta " Par un voyageur Prancais, '^ the au-
thor ranks it with a popular feast very ancient
in Thessaly, %\x& 8ahm of the Babylonians, the
Ghi*onia of the Athenians, and the Saturna-
lia of Rome, which many of the early christians
continued, notwithstanding the zealous efforts
which were made by the church to abolish them.

Another very famous diversion of the Mal-
tese is the Oioatra, which takes place on the
anniversary of the victory gained over the

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114 PART II. l>BSCRtFnON OF MALTA.

Turks^ when they made their a^ack upon iihe
island^ in the reign of La Yatotta This import
is aocompanied with races of bosets which ran
part of the le&gth of the -harbour^ t^e prizes
being awarded by the Government* The Oio-
sira is a large barge^ anchored in an open place
in the centre of the port, haying a long tap-
ering pole placed horizontally from the head,
with a small flag fixed on at the end, and made
very slippery witii grease, soap and several
othsr ingredients. At a given signal, a num-
ber of naked boys are r^y monnted on the
barge, who immediately begin the task of en-
deavonring to seize the flag. One after another
they continue tumbling into the water, and
raising again to renew the attempt. Gradaally
the greasy matter begins to diminish, and they
are able to advance farther ; bat an hour gene-
rally elapses before the prize is seized, and
very seldom before some accident has happened
among the competitors, as many of whom, strike
their limbs on the pole in their fall into the
water. This amusement generally attracts a
numerous quantity of boats round the barge
filled with hundreds of spectators both male and
female.

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115
ADMINISTRAXigN OF JUSTICE.

Origin €$ 3m sifis^Bt llali^Me •oode'-^onfufiion of— Enu-
meration of the Courts — Sappression of the Bishop's Tribu-
nal — Trial by Jury introduced — Commission to draw up new
«odeB — Besnlt of tkeir labooM*— Laog^nage in vfaieh the Mal-
tese oodes ought to be written.

Tlie Older of £hb. Jolm of J^«is«lem made
oyer to the Maltese a deposit of written and
oansnetodinaiy laws^ eopied from the ancient
Roman and Eeeleaiastical legaslatioosi. At that
period^ Sioilj Iblkrvred the €»me oourise; for^
sinee that islaad had eome under the 'dominion
of the Spmmrdfl, it was snhjact to the power of
the Yatican, wkidi thought itself capahle of
regjniatiag tiie OBUMrals of whole nAtions, with
the lOMifiisioa of laws/oae thousand two hundred
years old, — a oonfofiion increasingly ag^*avated
by the Bullcarium, the ma^s of the Pope's Be*
cretaih and those of the Sirava^nti. It ap-
pears therefore, that the legialation of Malta
was the same with that of Sieily. In later
timea^ it is true, this Isbisd enjoyed several
laws of her own, such as those of Monoel da
YUhena, Bdban, end other Grandmasters, who
from time to time issued proclamations or pro-
visionary regulations for particular cases ; yet,
both Mnmcipal Cooifititutionfl, as well as the
above Proclaaiations, were, for the most part,
very badly disposed^ for behind the times and

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116 PART II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

the people which they governed, and coined,
withottt exception, u^n the impress of the
above mentioned constitutions.

As to the Judiciary proceedings of the coun-
try they were based upon the RHo Siculo ; and
the organization of the courts conformed to the
same.

It cannot fail to surprise, that the same dis-
orders and even greater than tiiose which ex-
isted in the legislation, during the reign of the
Order, continued to exist in the island, in vi-
gour up to a certain period, under British rale.
Half a century ago, this confusion of laws was
not very sensibly felt by an enduring and docile
people like the Maltese. The subjects of a
theocracy, they found a remedy for tiieir real
evils in the religious sentiments which support-
ed them. The case, however, is now different ;
and is not from the reflection of the light of
European civilization, which shines upoti them
in the centre of the Mediterraneui, under the
auspices of Great Britain, — the Maltese people,
although the same in many respects, have still
become capable of valuing their own true state,
as also the state of their legislations.

The code of the Grandmaster Biohan is in full
force up to the present moment in several prin-
cipal dispositions. Very few of the salutary
laws, however, therein contained (such, for ex-
ample, as those which have reference to fathers
of families and vagabonds,) are followed out;

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ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 117

while a multitude of sacli as are incoherent^ or
written <zd ierrorem, or incompatible with the
judiciary order newly introduced^ or repugnant
with the newly established rule of commercial
jnrisprudeacey (which require laws correspond-
ing more or less between the countries which
have commercial intercourse with each other)
are in actual vigour.

Where provision is not made in this code,
(which very frequently happens) the indigested
farrago of Oorpus Juris of Justinian is brought
in to supply the want. This monstruous collec-
tion of the monument of knowledge, barbarity,
and imbecility of various Soman legislators, (as
it is called by Filangieri) is much less adapted
for Malta, than for any other country, subject
as it is to the dominion of England. A coun-
try like Malta, which draws its chief resources
from commercoy^ and under the rule of the most
commercial people in the world, should not be
governed by the code of a people anti-commer-
cial by nature, ^and by political disposition.
The formulae, the solemnities, and the actions
of law are so many insopportable shackles to
commerce and good faith, and the expedition
necessary in all commercial transactions.

The infinite number of writers on the Soman
Law, Disertationists, Commentators, Casuists,
Deciders, the Italian £0^6, and more especially
the Bota Bomana all come in to the aid of
the already mentioned compilations^ whenever

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118 PARgP lU DBJCBIPTIOW OF MALTA.

doubts^ anomalies^ coiatradietiotid^ eitlier in tbe
letter or the spirit of the laws occar^ whiich is
almost always the case. But it Bcsceeiy ever
happens that^ in recnrring to this host of wri-
ters^ one ever sacceeds in arriving ait a clearer
understanding of the case ; for they a^e even
more confosed and contradictory among them-
selves than the law itself. Notwithstanding all
tfais^ the authority of each is admitted in oar
tribnnals, without any distinction ; so that
writers for otiuer countries, for other times,
under goventments entirely diSlsrent from that
under which this island at present exists^ are
very often the legal criterion by yriaxik the ma-
gistrate pronounces bis decision.

To the above mentioned sources of tbe^ native
Legislation, there most be added lahe imnxense
mass of Proclamations and Noti&)4tions which
the Governors of the island have incessantly
published ; very often contradictory to each
other, and almost continnaUy revoking or a-
mending the preceding. These at present form
seven folio volumes.

In 1814 Sir Thomas Maitland made rn at-
tempt to reform the procedures, and to organ-
ize the Court of Justice on a new plan. To
this end he published a general constitution for
all the courts, and a statute for each one in
particular, which are undoubtedly to be coA-
mended for their simplicity and perspicuity ;
neverthdess we cannot refrain stating, from

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. ADUIN18TBATI0N OF JUSTIGE. 119

praeiiioal observation on this partial reform,
that tlie principal design of the legislator was
onlj to biurden the public with the tax» whenever
thej had a case to bring before the eonrt, or
had occasion to claim their own prapertjr. Even
at present, the weight of the e:(pensa8. of the
several courts differing from that of the R^-
strars through every Hall, is indescribable; and
this, besides what is necessary for thf* pay of
advocates, legal procurators, &c* In fact, in
many cases, it is only left in power of the rich
to obtain justice in the tribunaJa of Malta.
However in the year 1814 the organization of
tribunals underwent several alterations y and the
reforms, which had. taken place in these last
yeajrs, were intended to lessen the number of
tribunals in order to come to a simpler and
easier acbninistratioai of justice.

The Following is a Hst of the tribunals :
First Hall ctf the Civil Court.
Second Hall of Civil Couart.
Criminal Court.

First and Second Halls of Appeal
Criminal Comrt of the Police Magistrates.
Civil Court of ditto.

District Court of the Syndics in the villages.
Deputation for Marriage kgacies.

AH this without mentioning the appeal to
London, or enumerating the different courts in
the island of Gozo.

The suppression of the Bishop^s Court, which

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120 PABT II. DESCRIPTION OF MALTA.

took place in 1828, cannot be mentioned bat
with praise; its jarisdiction is at present con-
fined to cases entirely spiritnal. Tlie abuses o/
this tribunal had become insupportable, and the
appeals made therefrom to the Court of Borne
were not only attended with heavy expenses,
but were also interminable.

Trial by Jury in certain determinable crimi-
nal cases, where condemnation for hfe to the
pubUo works, or sentence of death is the pe-
nalty to be inflicted, was introduced by virtue
of a Proclamation issued in the year 1829. This
was the first political concession granted to the
Maltese by the British Grown, after twenty nine
years of its dominion over these Islands; and
the Maltese people looked at this concession as
a pledge of the aetermined intention of H. M's
Government, to make them partakers of every
benefit that belongs to all British subjects. Con-
sidering this procedure both in a purely judi-
ciary point of view, as well as morally and po-
litically in its relation with the actual state of
the civilization of the people, we may venture to
say, that its advantage is of an unquestionable
and undeniable great benefit. The Jury^ as it
is framed after the French system, and in the
manner in which it is conducted here, has re-
ceived a satisfactory and sudden development
in a short process of years : and so far as ex-
perience shows, the good sense, the impartiali-
ty and religion of the Maltese Jurors were

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ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTIGX. 121

without exception highly commended. Such
good success, obtained from the legisbtive
measure and education of the people, convinced
the Government to extend, in the year 1844,
this procedure for all crimes punishable with
imprisonment for five or more years, and in the
year 1855 by the promulgation of the New
Code of Criminal Procedure for all crimes with-
out distinction, comprising also abuse of the
liberty of the Press.

All the inconveniences above referred to in
the general system of the legislation of Malta,
in the organization of the Com*ts, and in the
judiciary order, have induced the inhabitants to
demand a reform from Great Britain, several
times within the last few years. Th^ir reason-
able request was at length attended to, and a
Commission was formed in order to draw up a
new code of laws, after the model of those most
recently enacted in Europe, For the accom-
plishment of this purpose, the persons first
elected were J. Stoddart, Chief Justice of the
island, J. Kirkpatrick Esq., Robert Langslow,
Esq., Attorney General at Malta, with Dr. V.
C. Bonnici, and Dr. J. G. Bonavita, two of Her
Majesty^s native judges.

Several months after the emanation of the
above Commission the question arose."Whether
the English or the Italian was to be the text
in which the new laws for Malta ought to be
written. '^ The English members^ with the

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122 PABT II. DBSCBIFTION 0^ MALTA.

exception of Jolm KirkpatridcEsq.^ held out for
the English language^ and the Maltese for the
Italian. The argumeDts on both sides were
examined hj the Colonial Department, and the
Italian was approved. The matter finally ter-
minated in the revocation of the Commission,
and the appointment of another in the per-
sons of five Maltese members. Up to the year
1835, the result of their labours was the Penal
Code, and the Laws of Procedure and Penal
Organization, which are now put into practice.
To these we mnst refer, rather than to any
other source in order to decide upon the fitness
or unfitness of the persons deputed for the
accomplishment of the desired end. The chief
basis of tjie design, as is believed, was laid by
Dr. J. G. Bonavita, the principal advocate for
the Italian language to be used in writing out
the Maltese legislation.

These two projects of new Codes of laws
were pubhshed in virtue of a public notice
issued on the 2l8t July 1830, in which a ge-
neral invitation was given for an experimental
sanction within a fixed period. Consequently
some of the lawyers and people applied to the
Secretary at State for, obtaining a longer time,
he referred the application to the consideration
of the late Commissioners of Inquiry, who
complied with their demand. At last, in the
year 1837 the compilation was suspended, till
a report on the same be obtained from the said

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ADMINISTRATM)N, OF JU9TICB. 123

C<HmQi0aik)Qeir» of I&quiry ; 9mA theirefore the
exporimciiital sftnotion had no effect. It ap*
peara however, that these pmjects of laws> pos-
sess some of the>featQ2^es and qiialities oifa good
body of l8ws> via^ miegritj, method and per-
spiciiitj^ yet &6 Maltese people did not give
them a welcome raeeptioti ir&m the moiaaent of
their pmbblication > and notwithstanding the
clamours^ whit^ib were raided agcanat them espe-
cially by the legal faculty^ the general iuvita-
tiou ghren for any objBerration or suggestion
to be made eoncemingthem^ within a limited
period^ passed awa^ witbomtany criticiem hav-
ing been presented. It is melancholy to say^
that these prejects of laws were ratheir opposed
with a Tiew to destroy them than to reform
their orgamzationi> whilst they were susceptible
of having a reform. In the- yewr 183% after
the recomm^idation of the Commissioner!^ of
Inquiry, the Government appointed the. presi-
dent of the Conri of Appeal, Sir J. G. Bonavita,
LL. D. and £he Judge Dr. Chappell to revise
and amend the original praject in order to
put it to a trial for three or five years. The
amended project was, in the year 1842, sub*
mitted to Government^ and afterwards it was
committed to Mr. Ax^tews Jameson, a learned
Scoth lawyer, to examine its state, and to bring
it into harmony with the spirit of the English
law. Dr. Ji^aaeson made his report in the year
1843, and in the following year the local Go-
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124 PART 11. ]>ESCRtmoN OP MALTA.

vernment appointed a Oommission oonsistitig
of two Maltese compilers^ to whom the report
was coTnmunicated for making their observa-
tions and suggestions. This Commission did
not approve Mr. Jameson^s views^ suggestions
and principal alterations; and in spite of that
disapprobation^ the Ck)de was^ for the last time
revised by the Crown advocate, and in virtne
of a notice issued in the year 1848, was exposed
to the public criticismi Lately in the year 1850
the same was examined and discussed in the
first session of the new Council of Government.
The various alterations and suggestions made
the Scotch lawyer, are highly commendable^
especially with reference to the Criminal pro-
cedure; but on account of tiie different persons
engaged to revise and reorganize the preset,
it is most certain that it does not qSSbtf that
order, regular structure, harmony o^pfinciple^
and uniformity of spirit, which influenced the
members of the first Commission in framing its
ori^nal construction. ^- .

With regard to the language in which \|)he
laws for Malta are to be written, the d^dsion
of H. M^s Government is very plausible^v In-
deed, it is a principle not only of justieet but
also of interest for the Maltese people to tblkow
up that, which the good sense, legal i*ea^ning,
ideas and habits of this population, can sug-
gest. From a very long course of years,
the Italian language^ is the languag^^of tiie

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ADMJNI8TBAT101I OF JUSTICE. 125

Maltese legislation of the Court of Justice^ of
business and commercial transaction^ (if we
except the remotest time, when only the Latin
language was also promiscuously used); and
although the language, of the various nations,
who in subsequent times ruled over Malta was
totally stranger to our Country, yet they al-
ways respected the principle of the Italian lan-
guage, as legal at Malta; and also distinguished
all that, which now and then under a false
point of view concerns the ruling nation, from
that, which in reality promotes the interest,
and lessens the wants of the ruled people. Ab-
iding by. this fact, and considering the present
state of language at Malta, the extensive
knowledge of the Itiedian to every class, as the
only.tm^^en language of the country; and the
very limited number of such persons as can
read and write, who have any acquaintance of
the English, it appears rather strange, that one
would think of giving a Code of laws written in
a language entirely unknown and foreign to
the people Qf Malta !

The opinion of the English members, of the
above mentioned Commission perhaps aimed
at the difficulty of establishing the Italian here
as the language of the laws; whilst through
the help of decided efforts, the Government^
might arrive at a future time to extend th^
knowledge of the English in such a manner
as to establish it as the last language of the

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126 PART II. i>ESORrpna]i ov mali^a^

CoaQtrjr. But we think^ tWt tt is kiipoasibk to
effect ia thici Ishni smch a chan^^ wiiioh
thoti^li in a very limited popnlalioa^ cottld oot
take place either in Any period^ or among any
oth^ people. Tbe ^orte mad<e by the Go-
vemnient to exte&d m nmch a$ possible the
knowledge of the English language among all
classes of Society of the Malteae are very praia-
worthy^ as they would tend to diffiise know*
iedge^ and blend intimately our interest and
political relation widi Greftt Britain ; but to ef«
feet snoh an end aH the expense of tbe Ztalsaa
seems impossible. The Italian^ has become
the written language of the Island, not«by
chance, or election ; but tt is the result of per-
manent cisoumstanoes, which eristed and will
esist for e?er. The geographical position, the
Various relations with neighbouring countries,
and the great extent of trade with the Me£-
terranean coast, where t^e Italian is excluai*
vely the language of commercial transaction,
are conditions, which caused that language to
exist and survive atJifalta for many centuries,
amidst foreign dominions, which probably
have had the same interest, that Great Britain
has to substitute its own tongue. Our Home
jGovernment, having the inclination to improve
the welfare of the Maltese^ ought to have the
jintereBt and to protect Ijie diffusion of the Ita-
lian among the people as far as its ovm language;
b^t both the English and Italian do iK>t 6nd tbe

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ADMINISTRATION OP JUSTICE. 127

same disposition of mind to acquire them ; and
the same conflict^ which at present exists^ will
always exist between them as the former is only
useful to some of the people^ and the latter is
indispensably written and cultivated by the most
enlightened portion of the inhabitants^ who donot
deem it their interest to acquire the English.
Therefore, whatever may be the attempts in-
tended to be carried on to put an end to the
existence of the Italian language^ in which our
laws are written; and whatever are the measures
to be taken to extend the knowledge of the
English, they not only never arrive to settle
dispute, which of the two languages shall have
the preeminence. The English cannot be expect-
ed to gain an ascendency over the Italian, even
after the laps of centuries; and therefore if any
definite plan be otherwise pursued to effect a
change in the language of the people, it will be
detrimental to the interest of the British Go-
vernment, as also to the interests of the Maltese.
The reform in the Maltese Legislation, has
made rapid progress of late years, which has
been attended with success. — The new Codes of
Criminal Procedure, Police Eegulation, and
Commercial Laws are already in force, and many
substantial parts of the Civil Laws have under-
gone a change in conformity with the system
adopted by the most civilized states of Europe.

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PART THIRD

ITINEHAHY OF THK

ISLAND OF MALTA.

BiWOQQOOOOi

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I'^ie/T Tuiie/D.

DIVISION OF THE ISLAND.

THE Island of Malta may be said to contain
two principal cities, three towns, and twen-
ty-two casals or villages scattered over a part
of the latter from their size, population and
building might be termed towns ; and a few
have been dignified with that title by several
of the Gradmasters. As, for istance, Casal
Zebbug is sometimes called Gitta Bohan ; Casal
Curmi, Citta Pinto ; and Casal Zabbar, Citta
Hompesh.

The two principal cities are Valletta and
GittsL Notabile ; the latter is called also Citta
Vecchia, or in Maltese Mdina, and situate about
the centre of the island. Borgo or Vittoriosa,
Senglea and Burmola or Cospicua, the three
chief towns, occupy the two promontories on
the opposite side of the harbour, towards the
east of Valletta.

In order to render the different descriptions
as clear as possible, I shall class those objects
which are most interesting and deserving of
notice under separate heads, though by so

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132 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA,

doing, I may sometimes be found guilty of re-,
petition. Valletta being the capital, I shall
commence with it ; including its suburbs and
fortifications,

DETAILS OP THE CrrY QF VALLETTA,

Foundation of the city — Its situation — Streets — Houses —
Mole— Warehouses on — Health Offioe-rEiterior fortificationa.
—Gates.

Valletta is situated on the east side of the
island, in Long. 14° 30' 25" E. Lat. 85° 53'
4" N. It is built upon a promontory of land
anciently called Shaab-er-Ras, the jutting out
of the cape. Before the arrival of the Order,
the capital of the island was the Citta Notabi-
le ; and the present site of Valletta was occu-
pied by a few huts, and defended by the fort
of St. Elmo, which at that time was very in-
significant compared with its present size and
strength. The first stone of the new city was
laid by the Grandmaster La Vallette, ou the
28th of March 1 566 ; and the whole was com-
pleted by his successor Pietro del Monte, ou
the 15th of May 1571.

The situation of Valletta is very convenient
for commerce; the appearance of the town from
the sea is delightful, nor does the interior pro-
duce the disappointment so common in towns
of the south of Europe,

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bETAILS OP THB CITY OP VALLETTA. 133

^he streets are regular and were formerly
paved with hard stone; they are now macada-^
mized^ a most inconvenient system which great-
ly lessens the well-known cleanliness of the
towns of Malta. The streets are dusty in sum-
mer and muddy in winter; and the mud re^
suiting therefrom is carried into the harbours
by the heavy rains. At night-time they are
lighted with gas^ which was introduced in 1857
and lately extended to the three towns on the
other side of the Grand Harbour.

Prom the declivity on which some part of
the city is built, many of them are steep, with
side- walks composed of stairs, which the au-
thor of the piece entitled Farewell to Malta,
erroneously attributed to Lord Byron, recol-
lected with no very pleasant associations, if we
may judge from the line "Adieu ye caused
streets of stairs.'^ The town is kept remarkably
clean, being swept every morning.

The houses are all built of stone, and very
generally comprise three stories. Besides the
windows opening into the streets and yards,
each dwelling has one or two balconies jutting
oat several feet from the wall and varying from
six to twenty in length. These awkward pro-
tnberances are sometimes open, and sometimes
covered on the top; and are supplied with glass
windows which can be opened or shut at plea-
sure. However much of these serve to destroy
the beauty of the external appearances of the

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134 PART III. INTINERARY OP MALTA.

buildings, they are very comfortable retreats
for the inmates, both in summer and winter
as from them they can espy all that transpires
in the streets without being exposed to the
effects of either.

The houses have all flat-roofed terraces,
which serve the double purpose of being an
agreeable resort for a walk, and receptacle for
the rain which falls during the winter; from
whence it runs into the cistern, with which al-
most every dwelling is provided. In case rain
should fail, water can be let into the cisterns
through underground canals which communi-
cate with the acqueduct. Such houses as do not
possess this convenience are supplied by the pu-
blic fountains, of which there are several in
different parts of the city.

On the mole of the Grand Harbour, near the
Custom-house, on a somewhat raised platform,
is a circular fountain, in the centre of which
was a fine bronze statue of Neptune, holding
the trident in. one hand and the escutcheon of
the Grandmaster Alofio Wignacourt, by whom
it was raised in the other. This piece of art
is the work of Giovanni Bologna, a pupil of
Michaelangelo.

This statue was removed to the Courtyard
of the Palace of the Grandmaster by Governor'
Sir Gaspard Le Marchant.

The semi-circular row of rooms situate round
this fountain was built by the Grandmaster

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DBTAILS OF THB Cmr C^ VALLETTA. 1 35

Baimond Despuig^ and iatended as a fish-
market; for wldich parpose it ia at present used.

The long excavated passage^ leading from
this division of the mole to that beyond the cu-
stom-house, was cut by the Grandmaster John
P. Lasearis, and called afber his name Lascaris
Gate. Over these was a fine honse and garden
attached, built by the Grandmaster Lascaris,
for the enjoyment of the nights during the
summer months. — This building has however
lately been demolished and a fortress has been
constructed in the defence of the harbour. The
parterre which leads into the dwelling, formed
by the terraces of the storehouses beneath, is
very spacious, and forms a delightful walk
with a good view of the harbour.

The long rang^ of warehouses beyond the
custom-house, as far as the Calcara Gate, was
also work of Lascaris. Those just below the
Calcara Gate were erected by the Grandmaster
Zondadari. Further up still are nineteen other
magazines, each two stories high, and very
spacious. These were built by Emmanuel Pinto,
and intended for merchantile stores. In the
centre of the range is a bronze bust of the
founder with a Latin inscription.

PUBLICiE COMMODITATIS META.

At present these are used as Ordnance stores.
The mole was begun by Zondadari, and com*
pleted daring the reign of Manoel de Yilhena
A. D. 1726.

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136 PAET III. ITINERA RT OP MALTA.

The fortifications whioh Bnrround the town
are very high^ and many of them formed partly
of the native rock ; the walls measure about
fifteen feet wide^ and are composed chiefly of
the common limestone of the country. Their
whole circumference is two miles and a half.
The ditch which croses the peninsula from the
Quarantine to the Great harbour^ cutting ofi* all
communication with the city^ is about 1000 feet
in lengthy 120 feet deep, and as many wide :
this is crossed by five bridges: ' one before the
principal gate, called Porta Keale, and the
others connected with the covered ways lead-
ing from St. Jameses and St. John^s cavalier.
These two fortresses flank the chief entrance
into the town and command the whole country
before, and the city in the rear. One is at pre-
sent unoccupied ; St. James^B to the left con-
tains a detachment of the British garrison.
Each is capable of quartering five hundred men.

Beyond the counterscarp are many outworks
and glacis built in the same massy style, and
well supplied with cannon, rendering the city
one of the best defencible in the world. One
would imagine that all these fortifications must
require a great force to man them properly ;
yet, it was calculated by the Cavalier Poulard,
that 12,000 troops would suffice for the defence
of the port, and the security of the walls. Dur-
ing the existence of the Order, the knights of
each Language had a particular post assigned

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DETAILS OF THE CrTY OF VALLETTA. 137

to_ them in case of an attack. The division was
as follows : to the Knights of Provence, the
Bampart of St. John, with its cavalier.
Auvergne,— — St. Michael.

France, St. James, with its cavalier.

Italy, St. Peter and Paul. ^

Arragon, —St. Andrew. •

England, Platform of St. Lazarus.
Germany, Bampart of St. Sebastian.
Castille, Sta. Barbara.

The city is closed by three gates :

Porta Scale, which is the chief entrance from
the country, and which was recently widened
is divided in two passages for the convenience
of the public.

Forta Marsamuscetto from the Quarantine
harbour, and the Marina Gate from the Great
harbour. Besides the above, there are two
sally ports : one leading from the outer wails of
fort St. Elmo, and the other before the ram-
part of St. Lazarus, which is at present open
for the convenience of those who live on the
opposite side of the quarantine harbour. Here
they can take boats and cross over as far as
Sliema or fort Tigne until sunset, when it is
closed for the night. This passage is called
the Jews' Sally Port.

The principal street of the city is Strada
Beale, which extends from the gate of the satne
name, as far as the castle of St. Elmo ; a dis-
tance of three quarters of a mile. The chief

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138 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

streets which run parallel with this are :
Strada Forni Strada Stretta.

— Mercanti — Zecca.

—St. Paolo —St. XJrsola.

The principal cross-streets are :
Strada Mezzodi Strada Vescovo.

— Britannica — San Oristoforo.

— St. Giovanni — San Domenico.

— St. Lucia — Teatro,

Strada San Nicola.

We shall commence our details by describing
THE CASTLE OF ST' ELMO.

This fortress is built on the extremity of the
peninsula of land which separates the two chief
harbours of the island. The present site of St.
Elmo was anciently called delht Ghmrdia ; as
here a watch was constantly kept to notice the
entrance of all vesfflels into both harbours. Here
also was a small chapell dedicated to St. Eras-
mus or St. Elmo, the tutelar saint of seamen ;
from which the fort derives its name. The fort
was first erected by order of the viceroy of Si-
cily, on the occasion of an attack of the Turks
in 1488. When the kinghts of Rhodes took
possession of Malta, they soon saw the impor-
tance of having this point well fortified, and
after an invasion of the Turks, when it was first
projected to build a new city on Mount Shaab-
er-Ras, by order of the Grandmaster Jean De

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CASTLE ST. ELMO. 139

Omedes; in the year 1552, this fortress was
much enlarged and destined to form the citadel
of the town. The work was carried on and
completed under the direction of the Grand
Prior of Capua; masons and other workmen
were brought over from Sicily for the purpose.

In 1565, the eighth year of the reign of La
Vallette, Solyman, enraged at the seizure of a
Turkish gallion belonging to the chief black
eunuch of his seraglio, vowed the destruction
of Malta; and for that purpose, destined a for-
midable armament under Dragut, the admiral
of the Algerine fleet, which appeared off the
island in the Month of May. The first point of
attack determined on by Solyman's generel was
at St. Elmo, which was usually garrisoned by
sixty men, under the command of one knight,
but such was the importance of the place, that
it was thought expedient to add a reinforce-
ment. Accordingly sixty knights and a com-
pany of Spanish infantry were sent to support it.

On the 25th of the same month the Turkish
artillery began to batter the fort both from the
sea and land. In few days a breach was effected
and a most bloody contest ensued, which must
soon have ended in the entire destruction of so
small a garrison, had no fresh supplies of troops
continually arrived during the night, from
Borgo, in boats, which took back the wounded
from the fort. The ravelin wast next stormed
by the besiegers, and fell into their hands after

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140 JPART III. ItlNfetlARY OF MAtf A*

H loss on their part of abont 8000 men; but in-*
sensible to this loss^ thi^y continued the attack
with unexampled ardour. In the mean time the
courage of the garrison was unabated^ but
seeing that the ravelin was taken^ the fort ex-
posed, the greater part of the artillery dis-
mounted, the ramparts in ruins, with but very
few soldiers to defend them, they deputed a
knight to wait upon the Grandmastei" to request
that they might evacuate the fort. La Vallette,
though secretly deploring the fate of so many
brave men who had fallen, yet, knowing the
importance of the place, would not consent to
its abandonment on the most urgent entreaties
from many of the Order. By a stratagem which
he formed, he raised the emulation and jealousy
of the petitioners, who were now determined
to die rather than yield up their posts. On
the 16th of June, a general assault was made
by the enemy, and the walls were laid even
with the rock on which they were built. The
Turks now entered the pitch where a fierce en-
gagement took place ; or while a continual fire
was kept up from both sides, the parties grap-
pled with each other after they had broken
their pikes in the contest. The assault conti-
nued for six hours, when the enemy began to
give way, and sounded a retreat after having
lost 3000 men. Seventeen knights perished in
the breach, and 300 soldiers were' either killed
or wounded.

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CASTLB ST, ELMO, 141

A peinforoemeqt of 150 men from Borgo who
voluntarily offered themselves for the service,
was now sent over to the fort ; but this was the
last time such assistance could be afforded. The
Turkish commander managed to lapd a force
on the opposite side o^ the Eeuella cr^ek^ which
hindered any boat from crossing over to the
help of the besieged. On the 2ist, thr^e asr
saults were made, and were qs ofte^ repulaed-i
until night put a stop to the contest.

On the following day the ass£^ult was renewec^
by day-break, and after defeudii:^g the breach
for four hours, only sixty m^n ^semftined to man
it. At 11 o'clock, the Janissftries made
themselves masters of the (Javalier; and the
Turkish commander entered the fort. Not
one knight was lefi alive and few remaining
soldiers perished iu the breach. The loss of
the enemy is estimated at 8000, while the Or-
der lost 300 knightgi and about 1300 soldiers.
The inhuman Turk, wishing to l-evenge the
death of his.troops,ordered n^e^ch to be made
f^mong the dead and wounded for the knights
whose hearts he had ripped out and often cut-
ting their breasts in the shape of a cross, com-
manded them to be set afloat on boards, design-
ing that the tide should carry them over to
St. Angelo towards Borgo. By way of reprisal.
La Vallette ordered all the prisoners to be put
to death, and loading his cannon with their still
bleeding heads,firedthem into the enemy's camp,

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142 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

In the following year, after the reimbark-
meut and defeat of the Turkish expedition,
when the first stone of the city of Valletta was
laid, the fort of St. Elmo was repaired and for-
tified, and built in a more regular form than it
was before. In the year 1687, under the Grand-
master Carafa, the fortress was almost rebuilt,
and in the commencement of the eighteenth
century the surrounding bastions were added
by the Grrandmaster Baimondo de Perellos
y-Roccjaful. The bastions, as also the fort, are
built of a very hard limestone, called by the
nati\res zoncor, and are well supplied with bomb
and cannon, and other pieces of artillery. On
the angles of the ramparts which command the
entrance into both harbours are two turrets,
formerly intended for the purpose of watching
the vessels which entered and left the harbour.
At present, the entrances to these are closed
with two marble slabs, one bearing an inscrip-
tion to the 'memory of Admiral Sir A. Ball,
once governor of Malta, below which are in-
terred his remains surrounded by an iron rai-
ling ; and the other in memory of Sir Ralph
Abercrombie, whose embalmed body is enclosed
in a barrel within the turret, just as it was
brought from Aboukir.From this circumstance,
the ramparts to the west are called after the
name of the former, BalVs bagtion, and those to
the east, Abererombit/s bastions.

From the watch-tower surmounting the fort.

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CASTLE ST* £LMO* 145.

vessels mayl)e seen at a great distance; the
qaalify of the sail in sight is mwrked by diffe-
rent signals^ and the points which they are com-
ing may be known by the position in which
these signs are placed, on a stand prepared for
the purpose. This custom existed in^the time
of the Order, and is continued to the present
day. Men-of-war are signified by two balls
suspended on a small pole, a packet by one,
and a Merchant vessel by a small square white
flag.

The treble row of magazines, nineteen on
each story, now forming a barrack for, two re-
giments of the line, was erected, under the aus-
pices of the Grandmaster Emmanuel Pinto,
and intended for storehouses of ammunition
for the Order, and a safe asylum for females in
case of a siege. These magazines are bomb
proof, and are built within the walls, under the
western wing of the Fort, from a design by
the Cavalier Tigne. The terrace of this build-
ing is well paved, and forms a delightful walk,,
enjoying an expensive view of the sea. In the
square, in front of &e barracks, is a fine foun-
tain, surmounted by four large stone shells,
from which the water was formerly made to
spring. Over the two gates which open the
descent to the square, were placed the arms
of the Grandmaster Pinto, surrounded with
warlike trophies and other ornaments. Those
on the northwestern side have been thrown

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144 PART III. ITINERARY OF MAtTA.

down; but those opposite, towards the town,
are still to be seen; though somewhat destroyea
by the hand of time. . ,

The fort of St. Elmo is at present garrisoned
by English Artillery, and a small detachmenti
of infantry. The quarters which they occupy
are healthy; those on the walls are open to the
air, and those below are built with spacious

corridors along the ranges of rooms. There was |
a small chapel in the fort, which is now usea I
for a diflFerent purpose. The light-hoase which ,

rises from one of the angles, ha9"4ately been i
improved by the English Governm^t.

Since the year 1565, when St. Elmo unhap-
pily fell into the hands of the Turks,^v))ut was
afterwards retaken by the knights, the m)rt was
seized upon by various priests and malciwtents
amounting to between three and fourhitodred
persons. This event took place during the
short reing of the Grandmaster Francis fiime-
nes de Texad * ; but the conspii^atora wereLsoon
obbliged to .• bandon their position. On weing
seized by the Bailiff de Eohan, who had the
charge of the attack, some were execuisd,
whilst others were either banished or im pri-
soned.

The next object of interest to which would
direct the attention of the traveller is i^

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145

PALACE.

It was the original intention to erect a resi-
dence for the Grandmaster of the Order on '
the site now occupied by the Auberge de Cas-
tile; but P. de Monte preferred the present
spot, situated on the most level part of the^
town^ with a spacious square in the front, call-
ed Piazza San Giorgio. The ensemble of
the exterior presents nothing striking^ the
whole forming a pile of unadorned architecture,
about three hundred feet square, surrounded
on every side by four of the principal streets,
and almost enclosed on three with a line of open
and covered balconies. It has two principal en-
trances on the front, each opening into an open
court, and one in the cenlro of the three re*
maining sides.

The interior of the Palace was very much
improved by the Grandmaster Emmanuel Pin-
to. It consists of a lower and upper story, each
containing a range of appartments running
round the building, and another transversely,
which divides the space within into two almost
equal divisions. The court to the left by far
the most spacious, and is surrounded by a por-
tico formed with arches, covering a fountain
opposite the entrance, surmounted with a sta-
tue of Neptune fixed in the wall behind. In
the other yard, which communicates with the
former, is a fountain, the Government Printing

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146 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

Office, the Office of the Comptroller of Chari-
table institutions, that of Hypothecations, of
the Crown Advocate, of the Chief Secretary to
Government, and that of the Executive Police,
the Military Secretary's Office, and the old Ar-
moury.

The upper story consists of numerous elegant
apartments and spacious halls, embellished with
views commemorative of the battles of the Or-
der, executed by Matteo de Lecce. Some of
the paintings are of a superior workmanship,
and will well repay more than a cursory exami-
nation. Among the several masters whose ge-
nius adorns these walls are, Caravaggio, Giu-
seppe d' Arpino and Cavalier Favray. In the
Waiting Room, at the end jof the Hall, as you
ascend the chief stairs, are to be seen produc-
tions of Busuttil and Caruana, two Maltese ar-
tists.Their principal pieces represent St. George
and the Dragon, St. Michael, St. Peter, Mary
Magdalen and j^neas. Most of the very an-
cient paintings in the Palace were placed here
by the Grandmaster Zondadari, and are chiefly
scriptural illustrations.

During Sir Gaspard Le MarchanVs admi-
nistration, the corridors of this Palace were
paved with marble in mosaic, and -subsequently
the principal stair-case was also paved with the
same costly material.

In the corridor leading*to the Armoury is the
entrance to a room hung with tapestry of very

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PALACE, 147

superior workmanship. The drawings on these
hangings represent scenes in India and Africa^
and a great collection of natural history. The
article was brought from France about 150
years since, yet the colours still look fresh and
new. This elegant xQom is now exclusively de-;
voted for the sittings of the Government Coun-
cil.

The most interesting sight in this building,
and one well worthy the attention of the stran-
ger is the Armoury. This occupies a large sa-
loon, extending the .whale length of the build-
ing, containing the armour, and a great many
warlike weapons belonging , to tl^ I^nights of
Malta, with numerous trophies of their splendid
victories. The principal musketry was manufac-
tured at the Tower of London, and placed here
by the English Government, when that of the
Order was removed. The nv»mber of regular
arms, which up to two year^.^p were shewn in
this place were as follows:

19,555 Muskets and bayonets..
1,000 Pistols.

30,000 Boarding pikes.

90 Complete coats of armour for mount-
ed knights.
450 Cuirasses, casques^ and gauntlets for
infantry.

The last mentioned^ armour is arranged along
the upper part of the room in regular order,
with tneir respective shields, on which is por-

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148 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

trayed the white cross of the Order on a red
field. The armoar for the mounted cavaliers
and men-at-armB is of different kii^dS; some
burnished^ and others painted black and var-
nished, The complete saita are placed apright
on stands^ and posted up along the rowa of
muskets^ at oerti^in distance from each other^
looking like 6»o maqy sentii^els, and giving 21
sombre appearance to the whole room. A trial
was once made of the force of resiajtance of one
qf these suits, and several musket-balls were
discharged i^gainst it at sixty yards distance,
which only produced a very shallow concavity.
This piece of armour is still preserved with the
rest. The muskets imd bayonets however have
been lately r^movedt

At one end of the voom. is a complete coat of
black armour standing about seven feet high,
and three and a half wide, It is not very pro-
bable that this has been often used; the helmet
alone weighs thirty seven pounds.

Close by the above is an open case, in which
may be seen many curious specimens of musi-
ketry, pistols, swords, daggers, &c. chiefly tro-
phies taken by the knights in their engagement
with the Turks. The sword of the famous
A Igerine general Dragut is preserved among
these spoils.

Before this case is a cannon made of tarred
rope, bound round a thin hning of copper, and
covered on the outside with^ a coat of plaster

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PAtiACB. 149

^nted black. This is a ourious specimen of
ancient warfare^ and was taken from the Turks
daring one of their attacks upon the city of
Rhodes. It is about five feet long, and thi^ee
inches in the calibre.

At the other extremity of the room is the
complete armoui^ of the Grandmaster Alofio
Wignacourt, beautifully enchased with gold;
above which is a drawing of the same, armed
cap-a-pie, a copy from a masterpiece of the
famous Caravaggio which is in the Dining
room^

Several parts of the walls are covered with
many curious specimens of ancient warhke im-
plements. Here one may see cross bows, maces,
coats of mail, javelins, battle-axes, and various
other instruments of bloodshed and death,
which were wielded in days of yore by those
who long since have finished their warfare, and
now sleep silently in the grave.

A man of reflection cannot fail to be affected
with the vanity of ambition, as he examines
these relics of the prowess of bygone years.
Is this all the remains of so much apxiety and
love of power? "How mean are these osten-
tatious methods of bribing the vote of fame,
and purchasing a little posthumous renown ! ''
'^ How are the mighty fallen, and the wea-
pons of war perished I ' Of the one it may be
said:

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150 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

'^ A heap of dnst alone remains of thee,
'Ti9 all thou art, and all the pride shall be."

while the other serves for the decoration of a
palace, and the momentary entertainment of a
passing stranger.

On the most elevated part of the Palace is
the Torretta; a small quadrangular tower, from
whence vessels of war are signalized. In the
lower part of this building were formerly pre-
served the treasures of the Order; among which
was the sword, shield, and golden belt of Philip
II. King of Spain, sent by him as a present to
the Grandmaster La Valette. These articles,
carried away by the French, during their occu-
pation in 1798-1800, are now at the National
Museum in Paris.

I must not take leave of the Palace without
leading the stranger to the Government chapel;
biit in order to this, he must follow me from
the highest to the lowest part of the building,
in a secluded spot, to the left of the chief
entrance. It is a long room capable of acco-
modating about three hundred persons and
fitted up with pews, the greater part of which
belong to persons employed by the Government,
and the remainder let out to hire. The only
part of the chapel where a stranger may find a
sitting, without intruding upon the premise^
of another, is the end of the room, where hear-
ing is almost impossible. Here is now the offi-
ce of the Land Revenue.

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PALACE. . ;i5r

After having examined all that is interest-
ing in the Governor's Palace, we shall next
notice the

AUBEEGES OP THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA.

There was a palace or inn for each language
of the Order where all the members, whether
knights, serving brothers, professed or novices,
equally eat. The Commanders seldom went
thither ; indeed those who were possessed of a
commandery worth two thousand Maltese dol-
lars could not be admitted ; neither could the
servants-at-arms, if they had a commandery
worth one thousand crowns. The chief of each
iun was called the Pilier, and he received either
a sum of money, or the equivalent in grain
from the public treasury, for the provision of
the members of his inn. The rest of the expen-
ses were paid by himself, for which he was in-*^
damnified by the first vacant dignity in his
language.

In these edificies the knights of each nation
not only eat, but assembled together for the
purposes of consultation, and the transaction
of business. Such as preferred residing in
their respective inns to having private houses
of their own were permitted to do so; the same
privilege was enjoyed by the brother chap-
lains, and the bro&er pages, in the service of
the Order.

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152 PART III. ITINXRiUlT OP MALTA.

The superior of every kogaage was digpiified
with a distinctive title^ to which were aBnexed
certain functions, which we shall notice in our
description of each inn* t

Auberge de Provence.

The superior of this auberge was denominat-
ed the Grand Commander ; who, by virtue of
his office was perpetual president of the com-
mon treasury, comptroller of the accounts, su-
perintendent of shores, governor of the arsenal
and master of the ordnmice. He had tho no^
minatin (subject to the approbation of the
Grandmaster and council) of all officers from
the different languages; and to this he added
the power of appointing persons to the various
places of trust in the church of St. John, and
in the Infirmary.

5 The Auberge de Provence is situated in
Strada Reale ; it is a fine building, with a plain
but imposing facade. The lower apartments are
at present appropriated for the sale of goods by
auction, the office of one of the public auctio-
neers, &c.; the upper rooms are let to the Mal-
ta Union Club.

Besides the chapel which this language own-
ed in the church of St. John, it possessed
another separated church, as did also several of
the oth^ languages. That of Santa Barbara
belonged to the Knights of Provence ; it is
situated a little higher up than the auberge^

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AUBfiBGES. 153

in the aame Btreet^ vOi^ ^he opposite side. This
cliapel is at preseixi made use of by tlie inlia-*
bitants*

The next in order is the

Auberge ' d' Auvergne.

The head of this inn was called the Grand
Marshal; he had the military command over
all the Order, excepting the grand crosses or
their lieutenants, the chaplains, and other per-
sons of the Grandmaster's household. He en-
trusted the standard of the Order to that
knight whom he judged most worthy of such
distinction. He had the right of appointing
the principal equery ; and when at sea, not
only commanded the general of the gallies, but
the grand admiral himself.

This auberge is even more simple in its
structure than the former ; and occupies a site
opposite the side square of St. John's church,
in Strada Beale. It is at present appopriated
in its upper floor for the civil courts; the
tribunals of appeal and commerce, as also for
the criminal court, and in the ground floor
for the courts of magistrates of judicial police.

Auherge d' Italie.

The superior of this language was styled the
Admiral. In the Grand Marshal's absence, he
had the command of the soldiery equally with

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154 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA,

the seamen ; he also appointed the comptroller
and secretary of the arsenal, and when he de-
manded to be named to the generalship of the
gallies, the Grandmaster was obliged to propose
him to the council, which was at liberty to ap-
point or to rejeci; him at pleasure.

This auberge is situated in Strada Mercanti,
opposite to the Auberge de Castile. Over the
entrance is a bronze bust of the Grandmaster
Carafa, with his coat of arms and many trophies
and ornaments of white marble, said to have
been cut from a large pillar which once stood
in the temple of Proserpine in the. Citta Nota-
bile. Below the bust is the following inscrip-
tion ; . .

OregorioGarafae Principi Optimo

belli pacisque artibus maobimo

post OUomanicam classem dudu suo

bis ad Hdlespordum profligatam

relatasque XI qiiinqueremiura manuhi as

ad summum Hierosolyfuitani Ordinis

regimen evecto

Itala equestris natio

Magistrali munere saeciilo

ampUusi viduata

augustam hanc effigiem

reparataa majestatis indicem D. D,

A.D,MDGLXXXIIL

To this language belonged the small church
of Santa Catarina which adjoins it/ having a

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THE NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.

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bt, John's church, 165

Duo Casira ad cusiodiam

Gorinthiaci sinus ifb ejus

facib\ a barbarie ultimo

constructa idem Alofius

quo fnatris tmdu sodiali bello ad-

versus Selimum MilesoUm piignave-

rat, nunc M. Mag. an, sui prinripdif. lit.

st Fascanio Cambriano elassis prefee-

io a suis dapta diripuit IngentiV, ad

LLX iormefitis irvter alia hut inde ad-

metis tantas igitur vieioriae moHUnfen*

ia 8. Vktori dui auspiciis die illi sacro earn

aedeptam referai ac Deiparae dedimmt.

To the left hand^ on enteritig' the church, is a
pplendid copper mausoleum of the Grandmaster
Zondadari. The whole is snppox:ted by a mar-
ble base, and flanked with two fine pillars of
the same material. The metal statue of the
kinght, as large as life in a reclining posture,
and the various ornaments which surround it
are very grand and may be regarded as a first
rate production of art.

Walking down the left aisle, the first arch
leads into the vestry, in which are several paint-
ings ; among them are full length portraits of
the Grandmaster Pinto, La Cassiere, Perellos,
and Nicolas Cotoner.

The second chapel is that of the Knights of
Austria. The altar piece represents the Adp-

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166 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

ration of the Wise Men ; the pieces on the side
walls illustrate the Murder of the Innocents,
and the birth of our Saviour.

These fine paintings are the works of the ce-
lebrated Maltese Artist, O. Erardi.

The third arch form the western entry into
the church. The walls of this recess are covered
with small and neat sculpture.

The fourth chapel is that -of the Italian
Knights; the walls are ornamented much in the
same manner as the former. There are in this
chapel two fine drawings of St. Jerome and
Mary Magdalen, said to be the work of the fa-
mous Caravaggio. The painting over the altar
represents St. Catherine. One of the finest and
most valued works of Matthias Preti. The only
mausoleum here is that of the Grandmaster
Carafa, which is partly of marble and partly of
copper. On the wall behind the bust is a pro-
spective view in alto-rilievo of the entry of se-
veral gallies into the harbour of ^(alta.

The next chapel is that of tlk? language of
the Knights of France. The conversion of St.
Paul over the altar, is a fine piece. The draw-
ings on the side walls represent the holy fa-
mily and St. John in the desert. In this cha-
pel are the monuments of two Grandmasters,
and one of the Prince Ludovico Philip d' Or-
leans, who was interred here in the year 1808.

The sixth and last chapel is that of the
Knights of Bavaria.Over the altar is a drawing

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/,-; ItlK^- '^^"' ''' ' Digitized by Google

' . ;. vV YORK

i L,...L'C LIBRARY

ASTOR, LENOX AME
TfLDEN FOUNDATIONS.

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ST. John's church. 167

of St. Michael and the Dragon, and on one
side of the wall another of his miraeulous ap-
pearance. The other side forms a small chapel
in a recess, enclosed with a brass balastrade,
dedicated to St. Carlo Boromeo. This was used
by the English Knights of the Order.

In this chapel, an old statae in wood repre-
senting St. John, is remarkable. It belonged
to the famous Caracea or Galley of the Order ;
it was the custom of the Knights to assemble
before the statue in order to implore victory,
before their national engagements.

From this chapel a staircase leads down to
an underground apartment, in which are the
tombs of several Grandmasters. Here is inter-
red L' Isle Adam, the first commander of the
Order in Malta. The remainder are those
of La Valette, Wignacourt, La Cassiere, Car-
dinal Yerdala, Ludovico Mendes de Yascon-
cellos, Pietro de Monte, and Martin de Garzes.
The remains of these are chiefly deposited in sar-
copaghi of Malta stone, with marble or bronze
covers, on some of which are carved full-length
images of the deceased. On the pavement are
three marble slabs with inscriptions to the me-
mory of Claudius de la Sengle, Petrino de Pon-
te, and loan de Omedes ; who, together with
several of the above mentioned, were removed
to this cemetery after the building of the
church.

On particular days the interior of the build-

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168 PART III. ITINERAY OF MALTA.

ing is covered with a rich tapestry, which give*
it a very splendid appearance. This article
was presented as a gift to the church by the
Grandmaster Perellos.

St. John's Church is one of the most con-
spicuous monuments of Christianity. Its pave-
ment is of the highest historical importance,
containing the history of three centures of
glory and greatness. Under the Order the
temple was richly decorated with silver orna-
ments, which were carried off by the French
together with those of the Cathedral Churoh
and the magnificent silver service of the renown-
ed Hospidal of Malta. On the overthrow of the
Order, Napoleon made over thia Church to
Mons. Labini, the then Bishop of this Island.
Since that time the chapter of this diocese offi^-
ciate in the Conventual Church of the Knights
of St. John, which is now administered by the
Government, and bears the title of Co-Cathe-
dral.

An old Cemetery will be observed by the vi-
sitor on the right side of this Temple. A py-
ramid is erected over the tombs, recording the
glorious deeds of many heroes who were killed in
battle.Under the slabs are deposited the remains
of the Knights who fell during the memorable
siege of Malta in the year 1565.

Besides the churoh already mentioned, there
are three others in the city which belong to the
Government ; viz. the Church of the Jesuits in

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St. John's church. 169

Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marisa^ and
St. Bocco in Strada St. Ursola. The former
of these we may have occasion to mention in
our remarks on the Jesoit^s college now the
Government University. The chnrch of the
Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The
walls of this building are adorned* with gifts
devoted to the Virgin, the fulfilment of vows
made in time of affliction, in order to obtain
her commiseration. The boatmen bold this
church in peculiar veneration.

The two parish churches of the dty are those
of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the former
is connected with a monastery of Dominician
friars ; the latter is a collegiate church situated
in the. street of the same name. The other mpn*^
kish orders are those of the Augustinians, Car'^
melites, Franciscans, and the Minori Oeservanti
or Reformed Franciscans ; all of which have
churches connected with their respective con-
vents. Besides these, there are two large nun-
neries, one of Ursuline and the other of Sta.
Catarina nuns. Two other churches in the city,
one dedicated to Sta. Lucia, and the other cal-
led delle Anime (of the fcJouls in Purgsatory)
belong to the public. The Greek Catholics have
also a pmsh church, dedicated to St. Maria, in
Strada Vescovo. Several of these churches are
ornamented with fine paintings.

It is calculated that the number of ordained
priests and friars in the islands of Malta and

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170 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

Gozo exceeds one thousand; these are support-
ed from the revenues of their respective
x;hurches and convents, the contributions of
the people, and the money paid in masses for
the living and the dead. Beside the above there
are many Abbati preparing for ordination who
are considefed a pa^t of the ecclesiastical esta-
blishment of the island.

In the month of February, in the year 1823,
A yery mournful event took place in one of the
x^onvents of Malta; no less dreadful in its effects
than that of the Black hole of Calcutta. The
circumstance was as follows :

It was usual in this island, on tha last days
of the Carnival, to collect together, from Val-
letta and from the three cities on the other
side of the harbour, as many boys of the lower
classes, of from 8 to 15 years of age, as chose
to attend,^^to fori^ them into a procession,
and to take them out to Floriana or elsewhere,
where, after attending sirvice in the church a
collation of bread iind fruit (provided from funds
partly given by Government and partly by bene-
ficient individujals)was distributed to them, — and
this with the view of keeping them out of the
riot and confusion of the Carnival in the streets
of the cities. The arrangement of this proces-
sion was under the control of the Ecclesiastical
Directors of the Institution for teaching the
Catachism. It appears that this procession had
taken place on the 10th Feb. that the children

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ST. John's church. 171

went to Floriana, and from thence returned to
the church of the Minori Osservanti in Valletta,
and that the bread was on that day distributed
in the Convent of that Order without any acci^
dent or confusion.

On the 11th the procession was formed as
usnal^ proceeded to Floriana, and returned to
the church of the Minori Osservantiy and the
bread was to be distributed, as on the preced-
ing day, in the same convent. Unfortunately
however, the ceremony had been protracted to
a later hour than usual, and it appears (the Car-
nival being over,) that a multitude of boys and
full grown people, passing by the church and
knowing that bread was to be distributed, mix-
ed with the children in the church with the
view of sharing it with them.

The boys were to enter the corridor of tne
convent from the door of the vestry of the
church, and were to be let out through the op^
posite door of the convent in Strada St.Ursola,
where the bread was to be distributed ; and it
had been customary, when they were collected
in the corridor, to lock the door of the vestry,
for the purpose of preventing those boys who
had received the share of the bre^d from entei^
ing the second time into the corridor.

On the door of the vestry, however, being
thrown open on the present occasiop, which
took place about sun-set, after the entrance of
the boySj who originally attended the process*

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llfi iPARt tli. iliTINERARir OF MALtAi

feion, and who could not have exceeded oili^
hundred, a^whole multitude of men and boysj
who had subsequently entered the church, forc-
ed themselves into the doi*ridor to an unknown
extent, and pressed upon the foremost, pushing
them gradually to the other end of £he corridox*
where the door was only half open, with the
view of letting out one at a time.

As soon as the people had all ^nter&d the
corridor, the vestry door was as usual locked,
and, though there was one lamp lighted in the
corridor, it appears, by some Accident, to have
been put out^-thus leaving this immense crowd
entirely in the dark ; and there being unfortu-
nately a flight of eight steps within the half
closed door, at the opposite end of the corridor
the crowd behind, who pressed upon the fore-
most, forced the boys down the steps, who fell
one upon the other; thus ntifoi'tunately shoaking
up the half*shut door at the bottom (which
opened inwards,) and adding to the distress.

The shrieks of the children were soon heard
by the persons employed in the distribution of
the bread which they had commenced issuing,
and by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood —
and it appears that every aid was immediately
given. Some persons, after endeavouring in
vain to get the boys out of the half closied door
i^ushed into the church and got the keys'jof the
vestry door, which was then opened ; —; while
others entered the corridor from the /vestry

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ST. John's church. 173

passed tbrough the crowd to the other end^ and
broke down the door at the bottom of the steps;
1— but unfortunately their ezertiops where not
in time to save the unhappy sufferer^.

Many^ however, were tafceu out fainting and
soon recovered ; others apparently lifeless were
afterwards brought to their senses; but, sad to
relate, one hundred and ten boys of from 8 to
15 years of age perished ou this occasion from
suffocation, by being pressed together in so
small a space> or trampled upon,

HOSPITALS,

The present Military Hospital, situated at
the lower extremity of Strada Mercanti, was
formerly the public building used for the re-
ception of the sick by the Knights of Malta. It
is a very commodious edifice, containing many
ranges of rooms, disposed in excellent order for
the free circulation of air, with a spacious court,
in the centre of which is a good fountain. Dur-
ing the existence of the . Order, this establish-
ment was open to strangers as well as to the
citizens, for whom suitable accomodations were
provided. The sick, were regularly attended by
the knights in person, provided with medicines
and medical assistance free of expense, and their
food served up to them in vessels of silver.
Here also was a provision made for foundlings.

The direction cf this institution, after the
Grandmaster, was committed to the chief Hos-

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174 PART 111. ITINERARY OF MALTA*

pitalier which dignity appartained to the
French knights. To him belonged the election
of the Overseer of the Infirmary^ the Prior, and
other ministers. The Overseer generally resid*
ed in the Hospital; to the Prior, was commit-
ed the charge of the spiritual concerns of the
patients, and the other ecclesiastical servants
helped in assisting the sick, and in celebrating
the sacrament in different wards. To the right
hand, on entering the chief gate of the Hospi-
tal, was the Pharmacy of the eetablishment,
well supplied with all kinds of drugs and me-
dicines. This is used for the same purpose at
the present day.

On the arrival of the French, they seized
upon all the plate which was to be found'in the
establishment,- and converted the building into
a Military Hospital. The inhabitants being
obliged to demand another, the Nunnery of Sta.
Maddalena was given them, the nuns promptly
yielding up their residence for the purpose,
some of whom retired into the monastery of
Sta. Cafarina, and others went to their homes.

Close by, was the cemetery for all persons
who died m the Hospital, which adjoins a small
church called the Church of the Cemetery, found-
ed by the Commendatore Fra Giorgio Nibbia,
who is himself buried there. Upon a part of
the locality which formed the burial-ground is
now built a semicircular building, set apart for
disection, and practical lessons in anatomy, to

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HOSPITALS-- 17&

the students who attend the government Uni-
versity. By the side of this is a very extensive
charnel-house^ containing many thousand sculls
and human bones, which have been dug up
from time to time out of the cemetery.

Close to the above was the public Female
Hospital, founded in the year 1646 by the Lady
Catarina Scoppi Senese, who bequeathed the
building to the public, and endowed it with all
her wealth. This institution which existed till
the. year 1850 was likewise under the direction
of two knights of the Order, who were called
Commissioners.

Opposite this building was the public Male
Hospital, which in the time of the Order, as I
have mentioned above, was a Nunnery of The
Penitents, dedicated to Sta. Maria Maddalena.
Whilst this establishment existed, by order of
the Pope, it was partly supported by the fifth
portion of the inheritance of prostitutes. The
church which adjoined it was made use of as a
ward for the wounded, and such as have broken
limbs. This building was lately converted into
an orphan asylum, and annexed to which are
the Industrial and Normal Primary Schools of
Valletta. Both Hospitals had not all the acco-
modations, they were therefore lately removed
to a more spacious building at Floriana, of
which we shall speak hereafter.

Opposite the Military Hospital is another
large building, which is at present occupied by

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176 PART in. ITIMSHARY OP MALTA.

private families. The part to the right was for-
merly called La Camerata, where a number of
the more pious knights were accustomed to
reside^ and where they assembled together at
stated huors fop devotion. The left division

^ called la Lingeria, was set apart as a magazine
for the linen and other articles required for the

• service of the Hospital. Hare also the bedding
and clothing of the patients were washed. This
building was erected in the year 1593 under the
Grandmaster CardinalVerdala^ and subsequent-
ly repaired during the reign of the Grandmaster
Lascaris. In the Gamerata was after established
the College of St. Paul directed by the Jesuits
which was transferred from Citta Veocbia in the
year 1852,

That old edifice having been demolished^ a
vast building was constructed by the late Bi-
shop Gasolani for the accomodation of the lower
classes of the people.

MONTE m PIETA'

PUBLIC PAWN BBOKERY.

This institution occupies a large building in
Strada Mercanti, opposite the house called II
Banco dei Oiuratu It was originally establish-
ed in the year 1507, and like all institutions
of the sort in other parts of Europe, particu-
larly at Rome, with the object of aflFording pe-

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MONTtt DI PIETa'. 177

cuniary relief to the distressed at iieaflKmabk
interest^ thereby preventing them from having
recoarse to naarioas contracts. Anj gam of
money, however small, . ia advanced to appli'^
cants on the security of property given in
pawn, such ad gold, silver, and other precious
articles, Or wearing apparel, whether worn or
new. The period of the loin is for three years
on pawns of the first description, and never
more than two oii those of the latter, renew-
able at the option of the parties, who are also at
liberty to redeem their pawns at any time with-
in the period on payment 6f interest in propor*
tion. The rate of interest now charged is 5 per
cent, per atmum. The unclaimed pawns at the
expiration of the period, are sold by public
anction, and &e residue of the proceeds, after
deducting the sum due to the institution^ is
payable to the petson ptodudng the respective
tickets. Of the accomodations thus afforded
by the Monte not unfrequently persons in bet-
ter circumstances have availed for any momen-
tary exigency, and in this way considerable
sums have beeti advanced. Till the year 1787
the operations of this institution were conduct-
ed by means oftaoney borrowed at a moderate
interest, and by funds acquired by donations,
&c. But the Grandmaster Rohan authorized
the consolidation of the funds of the Mohte di
Pieti with those of the Monte di Redenzione,
anoth^ j^sfitution, eqtudly national founded in

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178 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

the year 1607 by private donations and bequests
for the philantrophic object of rescuing from
slavery any of the natives who might fall
into the hands of the Mohammedans not having
means of ransom. As this institution had larger
funds (mostly in landed property) than it act-
ually required to meet all demands^ the act of
consolidation proved of the greatest advantage
to the Monte di Pietd. Thus united the two
institutions^ with the new title of Monte di
Pietil e Bedenzione^ conducted their separate
duties under the superintendence of a board
consisting of a President and eight Commissa-
ries, till the expulsion of the Order of St. John
from Malta, which happened in the year 1798.
The French Republicans by whom the island
was then occupied stripped the Monte of every
article whether in money or pawns, and the loss
sustained by the institution on that unfortunate
occasion amounted nearly to £ 35,000 sterling,
including the share of the proprietors of pawns
in as much as the advance they received on
that security never exceeded one half or two-
thirds of the value of the articles pawned. It
is needless to state that not a shilling of this
sum was repaid by tixe French Government
after the occupation of the island by the En-
glish.

When the British forces took possession of
Valletta in September 1800, it was one of
the first cares of the head of the Government

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MOMTE DI PIETa'. J 79

to see iins useful institution resume its opera-
tions ; accordingly a new board was elected,
and about four thousands pounds advanced to
them {without interest) from the local treasury.
A loan was opened to which individuals did not
hesitate to contribute when they were assured
that the institution considered itself bound to
pay the loan though forming part of the amount
carried away by the French, and that in the
mean time interest would be paid on it. The
Monte possessing landed property to a much
greater amount could never refuse such an act
of justice. Happily the cessation of slavery
having put an end to the old charge for ran-
some, enable the institution to devote its reve-
nues to the payment of interest on the old loan
to the extinction of part of the capital, to the
improvement of its property, and for the last
fourteen years, to assign a subsidy in aid of
the expense of the House of Industry.

The Administration of the Monte di Pieta e
Bedenzione was by a Minute of the Governor
dated the 27th December 1837, vested from
the 1st January 1838, in the Commitee of the
Government Charitable Institutions; instead of
the former board consisting of a President and
six Commissaries. A Saving Bank was an-
nexed to the Monte di Pieta, in 1833, which
istitution has produced a very effect in an eco-
nomical point of view.

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I8d

Formerly the Jesuits* Gollegie.

It was dafitig a veftV tomaltuoxis stiid seditions
time in the erS of the Knights of Malta that
the Jesuits Were called in by Bishop Gargallo
to support him aigainst the powet of the Order,
This learned body of men soon gained the Sanie
ascehdaticy in Malta as in every othet* place
whfere they hare er6r been establishedJn order
f provide them with a pej^manent settlement
in the island, the above prelate erected for them
the present church and college, the foundation
of which was laid on the 12th of November
15^, during the reign of the Grandmaster
Yerdala.

The Jesuits, however, did not long enjoy
their power in Malta. Forty-seveti years after
their introduction, ati affair took place which
terminated in their e:tpul3ion. Some young
knights, t^ho had just ceased acting as pages,
disguised themselves as J)3suits during the Car-
nival. This so offended the holy fathers, that
they made their complaints to Lascaris and
the Grandmaster immediately gave orders
thdt Bonie of the youths should be apprehended.
This act enraged their companions, who pro-
ceeded first to the pris6n, the gatefe of which
they fdrced, and after liberating their compa-
nions from their confinement,proceeded in a bo-
dy to the college, threw the furniture out of the

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wifidows, and compelleel the Grandmaster to
send the Jesuits out of tibie island. Eleven of
them were ficcordingiy embarked; but four
contrived to secrete themselves in the city
vrhere they remained. This pvent occurred in
the year 1689 their total ^xpplsion did not
take place ontil the year 1769, after which the
inatitation became subject to the Order, and
from them was transfeiTed <OTer to tfee direction
of the British Government.

The university and ijhnrch occupy an exten-
sive sate surroimded by fout princip*itl streets^
The latter is a very regular and neatly onia-
inented building, containing several paindngts
by the GavAlier Calabrese. To the left of the
aouthem entrance, <>ver which is the inscription
in jwmine Jesu omTue genu finetatur are two ora-
tories. In 1803, the Governor Sir A. Ball in-
stituted the Merchants' Bank in one angle
of this edifice, which was considered as a great
piece of injustice by the Maltese, who perhaps
did not esteem the proceeding'so much a dese-
cration of the locality, as to delude tbenu^lves
that it was an infringement on their rights.
The decision of the existing government car-
ried through the design.

The two Banks and the Exchange togethei*
with the twa other Commercial Establishments
were lately united and centred in a new and
elegant edifice, expressly constructed for the
purpose^ in Strada Beale on the plan of the

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132 PART III. ITINBRART OF MALTA.

Maltese arcliitect Mr. Oinseppe Bonavia^ and
by contributions of the Commercial Body. The
inauguration of this establishment took place
on the 11th April 1857. The first floor of this
building has been destined for a Casino (club)
accessible to all persons of a respectable class.
The submarine telegraph office was first esta-
blished in a part of the Old Exchange but it
has since been removed to a house on the Mar-
samuscetto bastion^ and the whole building is
now appropriated for the University.

The University was at different periods^ sub-
ject to various changes^ and the last reform
which took place^ and came into operation on
the 1st of January 1839, was that suggested
through the representations of the Commission-
ers sent out to examine into this institution^ as
well as into other grievances of the people. This
change is still in full force^ though it was af*
terwards modified in some particular circum-
stances.

A statute was then published with the ap-
probation of Government^ and it maintained the
division of the University from the Lyceum.

The University consists now of four faculties;
viz: of Philosophy and Arts^ of Theology, of
Law and of Medicine, and the number of pro-
fessors is reduced to the following:—^

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UNIVSMITT. 183

Faculty of Philosophy and Art,

1, Professor of Matematic ;

2, of Logic ;

3, ^ — - of Latin literature ;

4, • ■* of Italian literature ;

5, ' of English literature.

Faculty of Medicine,

1. Professor of Medicine ;

2. of Anatomy and Surgery ;

8. of Midwifery ;

4. — : of Chemistry ;

5. of Botany,

Factdty of Law.

1. Professor of Civil Institutes^ and of the
Institutes of th^ Law of Malta.

2. Professor of Canon Law, Twith the appii-
of the Law of Nations and of)Sund ^ miu
Public Law, and of Criminal I and its depen-
Law, as regards raits penal pt. l^dendeB.

and of Maltese Criminal Procedure and

the Maltese Civil Procedure.

Faculty of Theology,

1. Professor of Dogmatical Theology ;

2. of Moral do.

The Lyceum is considered as a preparatory-
school to the University, and it consists of
thirteen masterships, viz :
1. Master of Latin,

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184 PART III. ITINBBARY OF MALTA.

2. Master of It&Ua»,

3. of Eogliafa,

4. of Freech,

5. of Hebi-ew,

6. ■ of ancient and modern Greek,

7. of Arabic,

8. of Arithmetic,

9. of Geometry,

10. of Navigation,

1 1 . of Caligraphy ,

12. of Drawing,

13. ■ of generalMistoryandGeography
Another Lyceum was established by Sir

Henry Storks in 1866 for the convenience of
the inhabitants of the towns on the other side
of the Grand Harbour ; the extent of the ins-
truction therein imported is more limited than
in that of Valletta. There is another Lyceum in
the Island of Gozo.

At the head of the whole institution there is
a Rector, who has the superintendence of the
Universifcy and Lyceum.

With reference to the government of the
University and Lyceum, it was to be assisted
by four special councils as well as by a general
one.

The four special Councils were composed of
every professor of the respective faculty, two
non^professional members, and the Rector.

Every particular council, was to interfere di-
rectly in matters with connection with its fa-
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vmvznsiTY. 185

culty, and that of Philosophy and Arts with
those concerning the Lyceum.

The general Council was composed of a pro-
fessor and two non- professional member's of
every faculty over which presided also the Rec-
tor, but after some years the special council
met only to examine the candidates for acade-
mical degrees ; and in these last years the ge-
neral council very seldom \^a» mentioned.

The government Library is separated again
from the University, and is under the control
of a Committee of which the Librarian serves
as a secretary. Ther Primary Schools have been
placed also under a special Director,- with the
title of Director and Professor of primary edu-
cation, who was charged to introduce in this
institution a more recent plan of early educa-
tion aa carried on in the schools of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain.

PUBLIC LiBRAEy.

The building which encloses the Public Li*
brary adjoins the Governor's Palace, and is one
of the finest specimens of architecture in the
town. The style of the whole edifice is grand
and regular ; and the arcade which extends
along the whole lenght forms a delightful por-
tico, and gives the facade a very imposing ap-
pearance. This structure was erected during
the reign of the Grandmaster Rohan, but was
not made use of as a library until the year 1811

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186 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

iw^ten Sir H. Oakes^ the British Govemori had
All the books transported from their former in-
commodioas lodgings near the Pablic Treasury
to their present situation.

The Public Library had its origin in the time
of the BailiflF Ludovico Guerin de Tencin, who,
endowed it with a great number of his own
books^ and procured for it vast legacies of lite-
rature from other source. Not being able to
make a sufficient provision, for its- maintenance
at his death, it was made over to the Order
and afterwapdis enriched by the private libraries
of the Knights, who at their decease were ob-
liged to bequeath all their books to this insti-
tution. The number of volumes now existing
is abuot 40,000.

But this figure is on the increase owing to
the continual addition of new works recom-
mended by the active Librarian and the com-
mittee of the Library.

In such a collection, as one might expect
from the manner in which it was brought to-
gether, there are many books of very little
worth; however, any persons desirous of exam-
ining the records of antiquity, or of traversing
the extensive fields of the scientifical research of
by-gone days, or of deriving amusement from
the peregrinations and voyages pf the ancients,
or of studying long treatises on military tactica
and enginery, all the intermediate tastea fbom
the jnost zealous disciple of Euclid, to the most

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PUBLIC LIBRARY. 187

pitiable novel reader,— may here find ample
provision to satisfy his most enlarged desires.
In fact, one may find almost any thing bat a
few new books.

The works in this Library are written prin-
cipally in Latin, French and Italian ; however,
there is a small collection of English literature,
and a few books in other Eiuropean languages.

In the same room with the library is also
kept a small collection of antiquities and curio-
sities, found at various times in this island and
at G0ZO9 together with a few birds, a wolf, a
wild cat and a snake all stufied. The principal
antiquities are the following:

Several Phoenician and other coins or medals
which are not generally exposed, but kept un-
der the care of the Librarian.

Several earthen jugs and lachrymatories, up^
on one of which certain Phoenician letters are *
perceivable although illegible.

A statue of Hercules of Parian marble in ve-
ry good condition. The god is crowned with a
garland of poplar, reclining on his club, and
exhibiting a very calm and placid countenance.

The torso of a Diana in marble, found dur*
ing the excavations recently undertaken for the
extention of the Grand Harbour; the work is
by a Grecian artist.

A square altar dedicated to Proserpine,^ on
one of the sides of which two men are repre--
sented as offering a fish to the goddess ; aud on

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188 PART Hi. itlNER^EY Ot ^ALTAi

another is the emblem by which the Syracu^
saufi designed Sicily. It coneiets of >a head
from which issue three legs, so disposed as to
form the three extremities of a triangle.

A Phoenician inscription on two pieces of
hiarble, which has been differently translated
by the several persons who have made the at^
tempt; an undeniable proof that very little is
known in our days of the ancieiit Punic. These
monuments contain also a Greek insoription:
but the genuineness of both has been much
questioned.

A small brass figure, found at Gozo, repre*^
senting a young beggar seated in a basket,
which is covered with large letters, as also is
the tippet which is thrown over his shoulders.
These letters appear to be a compound of Greek
and Gothic characters, and ai-e very difficult to
decipher. An ingenuous writer thought he
discovered on it the figure of the cross, preced*
ed by the word ©VOEI for ETimH which to-
gether he renders Le Seigneur fut frappe.

A small marble figure found at Gozo repre-
senting the wolf suckKng Romulus and Re-
mus*

A marble slab containing two baaso rilievo
figures representing Tuliia and Claudia, the
former the daughter of Cicero, the latter the
wife of Cecilius Metellus ; who both tived at
the same time. The insriptions on this mo-
nument are very plain; one is TVLIOLA, M.

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I^trl&LK) LIBRARY. 189

TVLII . F . atid the oth^t CL(AVDIA . ME-
TBLLI.

Aaother sqadt^ ttifetble stone containing a
bust in baeiso rilievo of Zlenobia, wife of Ode-»
nat, king of Palmyra. The inscription which
surrounds this figure is in good preservation ;
it reades, sjekobia. okienti. domina ; and bears
the date an. dni. cglxxti.

A stone altar and other small idols found
in the course of the excavations at Hagiar-
Kim^ representing the seven Brothers Kabiri
that figured in that Temple dedicated to As-
tarte,

Besides the above there are several other
Greek and Latiti inscriptions, and very perfect,
and of little impoi^t.

This library is' open to the public every day,
the principal feast-days, excepted. Any per-
son wishing to read here makes known to the
librarian what book be desires^ and is then at
liberty to sit until the hour appointed for clos-
ing the room. It is also allowed to take any
books home, the time allowed for their reten-
tion being regulated according to the size of
the work. ^

The Garrison Library is in the building on the
left hand side of the Main Guard on the Piazza
San Giorgio and consists at present at about
5000 volumes of English literature. There are
also a few works in French and Italian. Any
person wishing to subscribe is to w^rite his name

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190 PART IIU ITINERARY OP MALTA.

in a book kept by the Secretary ^ which is submit'
ted to the Committee for approval. The entrant
ce money of all officers and gentlemen holding
civil appointment is respectively to a snm equi*
valent to two days^ pay as well civil as military
the annual subscription of such 30s. sterling.
No entrance money is required from private
persons who may wish to subscribe.Temporary
subscribers are obliged to pay the sum of 5s.
monthly.

The great convenience in this institution
are the newspapers and periodicals^ of which it
provides a good supply. These must remain on
the Library table eight days before being put
into circulation, during which time they are
free to any subscriber who may wish to read
them. For this purpose a Reading-room is pro-
vided, which is open nine hours a day in win-
ter, and twelve in summer.

THEATRE ROYAL.

It was recently constructed on the site of
the old Auberge d' Angleterre at the top of
Strada Beale. The new Theatre is a noble edi-
fice, of the Grecian order, and would have a
just claim to elegance if it were lighter in its
form and less profusely decorated in tie exte-
rior. Notwithstanding its defects, this building
at the entrance, to the city, has a magnifioent
appearance, having a portico of the Corinthian
«rder; and the interior is richly decorated, and

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Public L...

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THEATRB8. 191

offers ST^t accommodation in the boxes and
pit. This work, commenced under the ad-
ministration of Sir Gaspard Le Marchant,
cost the Malta exchequers no less a sum than
£50^000. This building took fire on the even-
ing of the 26th. May 1873 and was rebuilt in
1877. It does not, however, possess any accom-
modation for the residence of actors, who in
the old Theatre, had their -dwellings contiguous
to it.

THEATRE MAKOEL,

This was the public Theatre until the erec^
tion of the one just mentioned.

This buildingis situated in the street named af-
ter it Strada Teatro Jt was erected by the Grand-
master Manoel Vilhena in theyearl 781,and pres-
ented nothing remarkable in its exterior or inte-
rior construction ; but it was repaired in the
year 1844 and since then is worthy of the at-
tention of the traveller. Government grants
the use of the Theatre goatis, and it is suppUed
in eight months of the year^ October to May
iilclusive with italian operas and occasionally in
the other four months June to September with
an Italian prose company. Occasionally the
Naval and the Military officers of the garrison
as well as Maltese amateurs exhibit themselves
as actors on the stage for the amusement of
the public.

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19^ PAJIT III, ITlNfil^ilfty OP MALTA.

It will b^ dllo^^ed by all, that the intention
of most players ili acting is to procure money,
and of the company in attending the theatre ia
to seek amusetnenf. Hence it will be found
here, as every where else, that the plays per-
formed generally correspond with the taste of
the audience,

CASTELLANIA,

In this public edifice up to a few years back
were the Criminal Court, the Courts of the Ma-
gistrates of Judicial, Police; as also the office
of the Executive Police 5 before their removal
to the Auberge d' A.uvorgne in Strada Rea-
le. — ^The principal portion of the building is
now used is a secondary school for females,
and the remaining portion has been let on lease
to the Gas Company and other parties. It
is situated in Strada Meroanti, and was rebuilt
by the Grandmaster Emmanuel Pinto in the
year 1758, »s appears from an inscription over
the entraiiGd. In the same street opposite the
Monte di Pieta, is the

BANCO DEI aiUBATI.

In the time of the Order, the Office of the
Magistracy for supplying the inhabitants with
corn and other lirticles of food, fend for fixing
the market-prices was held in this building.
This court consisted of fonr native Magistrates
elected by the Grandmaster, and was presided
over by a Bailiff Seneschal. Until the late

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BANCO DEI GIURATI. 193

abolition of the com monopoly under the Bri-
tish government, the office of the Grain Depart-
ment was held here. At present it is the Post
Office.

MARKET.

A new market was built on the site of the
old one, under the. administration of Sir Gas^
pard Le Marchant, on the models of the Halles
of Paris. It consists of a vast enclosure of stone
surmounted by an iron roof which is sup-
ported by several pillars of the same metal.
The interior is occupied by rows of stalls for
vendors, divided into passages. There are va-
rious pumps for the preservation of cleanliness
which draw water from a large tank excavated
under the foundatiou of this. building. A dit.9Ji
surrounds the market and gives admittance
into the numerous .stores^ constructed under
this edifice. , . ;

QUARANTmE HARBOUR.

and Lazmretto.

The gate called Marsamuscetto leads down a
long flight of Btairsi and over a drawbridge, to
the store of the Quarantine Harbour. Here
is a large building, the ©pper part of which is
occupied by the Health Office, oiid that, of the
Caf^ain of the Ports ; and the lower, floor ds
dividod* 'iutd separate open^ apartments, where
the capHains of vi^fiseis in quarantine generally

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194 PART. 111. ITINSRABT OF MALTA.

oome with their boats in order to transact bu-*
fiiness with the people of the town. This is cal«
led the Parlatorio and each room is provided
with two wooden rails in order to prevent
the parties from coming in contact with each
other.

Taking a boat we may cross over to visit
the Lazaretto, accompanied by a guardiano,
whose business is to see that we do not in-
fringe any of the sanitary laws. Before landing
this person mast demand permission of the
Quarantine OfSce^ and if there is no objection,
we are at Kberty to proceed and call at any
friend whom we may have undergoing his im-
prisonment in this establishment. Each divi-
sion of the building is provided with a small
room close to the shore, where persons are per«
mitted to converse with each other, under the
same restrictions as mentioned in the Parlatorio.
The fixed regulation in regard to the payment
of boats in this harbour frees the stranger
from the annoyance he usuallv meets with from
the boatmen in the other. The price is 6d. for
each half hour.

On arriving in a vessel from a suspected port
the traveller is invited by one of the officers of
the establishment to land and visit the apart-
ment where he is destined to pass his quaran-
tine. In case he wishes to hnre fumiture over
and above that provided by the Government,
consisting of a tables iwo dhairs and two bed-
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QUARANTINE HARBOUR. 195

boards and trestles, he may do so from a per-
son privileged for the purpose, who, at a pret-
ty high rate, will supply him with any thing
he may require. In regard to food^ should the
person not possess the means of ordering a
breakfast and dinner at the high rate charged
by the Trattoria connected with the Lazaretto,
he stands a good chance of suffering from hun>-
gCT*, unless he has friends in the town who will
undertake to supply him; because the only
plan by which he may otherwise procure it,
through caterers, is so badly regulated, as fre-
quently to occasion the greatest inconvenience
to travellers. As the guardiano placed over
you is not allowed to serve in any way, (though
you are obliged to pay him a salary, besides
supplying him with food) one must almost ne-
cessarily hire a servant, who may charge as
much as 2^. Sd. per day. In the latter case,
however, the sum to be rewarded is according
to agreement; but as regards the guardiano,
the price is fixed by the Government.

The d^y on which the passenger lands be**
gins to count as the first of his term; but
should he neglect to open his trunks, &c. in
order to air his baggage on this day, he runs
the risk of being detained a day longer. The
morning of the termination of his quarantine
goes into the account as one day, and he is per-
mitted at an early hour to leave for the city.

The chief part of the magazines and other

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196 PART III. ITINERAY OP MALTA.

buildings of the Lazaretto were built by the
Grandmaster Lascaris, but have been lately
much improved by the British Government.
They occupy a site on a small island which is
joined to the mainland on the western side by
a stone bridge. Although lately, quarantine
may be said to have been totally suppressed,
communication with all countries being in free
pratique.

Quarantine is rigorously proclaimed against
visitations of cholera which gave constant proof
of its propagation by infection. Science with
its positive and negative data as to the con-
tagious nature of the disease, is not yet autho-
rized to suppress a sanitary measure on which
the safety of. an entire country depends.

On the same island stands a strong bulwark
called

FORT MANOEL.

This fortress was erected by the Grandmas-
ter Ant. Manoel de Vilhena, in the year 1726,
•as appears from an inscription over the entrance
Burmounted by a copper bust of the founder.
The walls of this fort are very strong, enclosing
a spacious yard, in which are thrae ranges of
buildings, each containing two rows of apart-
ments, capable of lodging a garrison five hun-
dred strong. Adjoining on^ of the above. build-
ings is • a ^smali church, dedicated, to St. An-
thony of Padowa, at present only used occasio-

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PORT MANOEL, 197

nally "by some clbrgyman who niay happen to
be in quarantine.

In the centre of the court was a bronze sta-
tue of the Grandmaster Vilhena, on a high
square base, containing an elaborate eulogy, on
its four sides, of the virtues and mighty deeds
of the founder. The observation of Sig. D^ A-
valos in regard to this monument was worthy
of notice. He suggests that it should be trans-
planted over to some conspicuous place in
Valletta, in order to embellish the city ; as,
where it then stands, it was almost buried, and
can neither be seen nor admired by the public.

The project of Sig. D'Avalos was carried out
under the Government of Sir Gaspard Le Mar-
chant, who caused that statue to be placed on
the square of the Public Library. This square
was, like those round St. John's Church, plant-
ed with trees and ornamented with a fountain
and public cafe.

To the north-east of Fort Manoel, on the
point called Cape Dragut', in memory of the
famous corsair who was slain here during the
great siege of Malta, stands another called

FORT TIGNE'.

This fortress was erected in the year 1796,
under the direction of the Commander Tousard
and named after the Cavalier Tigne, the engi-
neer who planned the dosing of the barracks of
St. Elmo. This fort was built in order to act

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198 PART III* ITINERARY OF MALTA.

in junction with the castle of St. Ehno for the
defence of the entrance into the quarantine har-
bour. Though small^ it is very strongly forti-
fied^ and is extensively nuned. The mines are
€ut out of the solid rock^ and have two outlets:
one by the side of the stoircase which leads up
to the fort^ and the other^ at some distance
from it^ near the beach on the north. On the
!fcop of the fort are four entrances leading down
to the mines underneath^ which separate in
four directions according to the points of the
compass. These passages are again separated
into smaller divisions, containing apartments
for the deposit of the powder destined to blow
up the fort in case of its seizure by an enemy.
It is at present garrisoned by a small body of
artillery and a company of Ime.

TOUR ROUND THE WALLS OF VALLETTA.

Before taking leave of the City I would in-
vite the stranger to a walk round the' walls^ es-
pecially those which overlook the ditch, where
are several monuments raised to the memory
of various deceased governors of the island
and other illustrious peraons.Under the bastion
of St. Midiael lie the remains of Capt. Spencer,
K. N. to whose memory a pillar was also erected
on the heights of Gorradino^ in the Oreat Har*
hour. Below this was another monument,
projected by the Maltese, to the memory of the

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TOUR «0mil5 TRt WALLS. 1^

late governor Sir P. 0. Ponsomby, The ex-
penses of this wort were defrayed by public
subscription. It was struck by lightning, and
having been greatly damaged was subsequently
demoKshed,

Under the Cavah'er St. John, within a small
grove of trees, it is tomb which encloses part
of the remains of the Marquis of Hastings, who
governed this island previous to the appoint-
ment of Sir P, C. Ponsomby. Beyond this is
the New Barracca a kind of parterre where se-
veral other monuments are erected to the me-
mory of noble personages, and where the ashes
of the late Governor Sir Thomas Maitland re-
pose in a secluded part.

The view from this place is very extensive
and beautiful, and as it overlooks the great
Harbour and its several creeks, with the sight
of vessels of every size anchored therein, — the
three towns which are directly opposite, the
castles which defend the port, the Marina, the
Floriana suburbs, and a great part of the coun-
*ry> — it forms one of the most pleasant and
agreeable places of rest which the city affords.

A new Protestant Church has been erected
on the western side of the Barracca.

On the walls of the town which defend the
entrance of the Great Harbour is the Old Bar-
racca, in which is planted a grove of trees sur-
rounding a massy monument, raised to pei'pe-
tuafce the memory of Sir J. Ball, first Briti»b

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200 PART in. ITINIiRARY OF MALTA.

Governor of the island. This also is a place of
public concourse, enjoying a very pleasant view
of the sea and of the harbour.

Having finished the tour of the most inte-
resting localities in the city^ we invite the
stranger to a walk without the city gates, iu
the direction of the suburb called

FLORIANA.

This place is surrounded with strong forti-
fications planned and superintended by the en-
gineer Col. P. P. Ploriani, sent from Eome by
the Pope, at the urgent request of the Grand-
master, in the year 1635. It is provided with
four gates : one leading up from the beach cal-
led della^ Marina; two otheis opening in the
direction of the country, one called 8t Anna's
Gate, and the other Notre Dame Gate ; and a
fourth . enclosing the advanced works called
Des Bombes, ,,,

These two gates, St. Anne's and Porte des
Bombes, were lately rempdelled on a better
design, and divided into two openings, one for
ingress, and tlie other for egress, rendering the
passage of vehicles and foot-passengers more
commodious.

On the outer front of the latter are to be seen
the impress of several balls, which were fired
by the Maltese when they blockaded the town
against the French.

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PLORIANA. 201

The open upoccupied. space within thesQ for-
tifications is divided by a long narrow enclo-
sure, dignified with the title of the Botanical
Garden. This is a place of public resort, and
serves more as a pleasant walk than for the
study of botany. There are however, a num-
ber of flowers collected here, and even a little
green spot in Malia may be likened to an oa^is
in the desert.

Near the above is another garden, called
Argotti,8itu&ted within the precincts of the walls
which owes its improvements to the late Gene-
ral Villette. Though not quite so abundant in
flowers as the former, it is much more exten-:
sive, contains, more wood,and combine some of
tho beauties of native rural scenery with the
embellishments of art ; but lately it was much
more improved as wqll as adorned with new
plants and handsome fountains ; it possesses a
most charming view of the country beyonij,
and serves now for public resort and agreable
walking.

HOUSE OF INDUSTRY.

. This bui Id ing,erec ted by the Grand m aster Ma-
noel de Vilhena,was originally intended as a con-
servatory for poor girls, where they were taught
to do a little work and in other respects to per-
form all the offices of nuns. In 1825 this es-
tablishment underwent an entire reforpi, and
until very lately was in a very thriving condi-

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202 PART III. ITIKERARY OP MALTA.

tion as re^rds fdie ooeapation of its inmates. A
great diversity of labour was done here, such
as weaving,knitting'making lace,sewing, wash-
ing, shoe-making, straw-plaiting, cigar-mak-
ing, and many other very usefnl branches of
female manufacture. The girls, however, were
never allowed to go out, unless under the con-
duct of the Lady Superior, and in this respect
the establishment differed little from a nun-
nery. In case any application should be made
for a servant, it was left to the option of some
one chosen for the purpose, whether she would
accept the situation. But the training which
. these girls received here was not at all calculat-
ed to fit them to be useful in household work.
Another means by which they might be libe-
rated was by marriage. A respectable young
man desiring a wife, and holding acquaintance
with any young woman in this establishment,
might request her in marriage,and she was quite
at liberty to leave, if she chose, for this purpose.
Since the breaking out of the cholera, which
took place in the year 1837 tmd which necessi-
tated the temporary dispersion of the inmates,
this institution has not assumed its former sys-
tem. A great number of the best workwomen
left, and those who remained were only occupi-
ed in making clothes for themselves, and other
labour connected directly with the establishment.
One hour daily was set apart for teaching them
to read and write.

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HOUSE OF INDUSTRY. 203

Bat this building lately has been greatly
improved and turned into a central hospital. It
is formed of two stories and divided in two se-
parate and large ranges of rooms^ each one of
them is to receive the male or female patients ;
it has also an adjoining wing for persons infest-
ed with venereal disease. The propriety of this
place, the health of its site^ the accomodations
within and the regularity of the service render
this establishment worthy of the notice of fo«
reigners. The girls who were formerly in the
house of industry were provisionally removed
to the neighbouring asylum for the aged.

Tho lower part of the back side of this build-
ing forms a barrack for a regiment of the
British garrison.

ASYLUM FOR THE AGED.

Descending a long staircase close by the
Barracks^ the traveller passes through a gate
called La Polverista, which leads him to this
establishment. It was erected by the same
Grandmaster who founded the above mentioned
institution, in the year 1734, and is now under
the direction of the local government. Here
are collected a great number of old and infirm
persons, who are furnished with all necessaries
of life, and provided for as long as they live.
Each one is supplied with a bed, a trunk for
his clothing, and a stool. The ringing of a bell
calls them together for their ijEkeals ; and it is q

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204 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

ttiofifc interesting sight to see a long table lined
with hoary heads sitting down to eat , apparent-
ly iiappy and comfortable in' the last stage of
their earthly existence. The aged females are
kept separated from the males.

The open space before the building has lately
been planted with trees and flowers, which
makes it a very pleasant and agreeable walk.Fol-
lowing the pathway which leads from the Asy-
lum, the traveller reaches the house and garden
called

^""^^ SA MA ISDN.

This is a ddightful spot, containing a most
charming view of^ihe Quarantine harbour, the
Pieta, and the counit?^beyond. The gardea
though small, is laid outSjS*'^ exquisite taste,
and is well supplied withflC^ers and fruits.
The battlement which enclosodkii^ one side is
almost covered with ivy; givingiiHil^^^stance
a most beautiful appearance. ThisB%?®® ^®*
longs to Government. \

Beneath the bastion, which extends alon^^®
Poor Asylum to this villa, is a very jnassy ai^
leading down to the shore of the Quarantinl/
Harbour. The architecture of this piece o(
workmanship is very much admired by conois-
seurs ; the curve is of a tortuous and oblique
form, and extends over a space of about thirty
feet in width. It was thrown by the Maltese
engineer Barbara^ who assisted Colonal Flaria-

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ASYLUM FOR THE POOR. 205

ni^ in the erection of the fortifications which
surround these suburbs.

PROTESTANT BURIAL GROUND.

A gate which bounds the precincts of the
Poor Asylum leads down to this repose of the
dead. Two extensive enclosures have already-
been filled up with the . mortality of En-
glish residents, and a third, opened about ten
years ago, is rapidly o.ocupying its space with
the bones ofT)ur countrymen. The latter is plant-
ed with flowers and trees, and contains many
sumptuous monuments, the only seniority which
the noble can now boast over the base, or the
rich over the poor. Here repose many who
sought in a foreign country a more genial cli-
mate for diseased nature, but whose destiny it
was to be borne by strangers to their long
hqrae. Here they re^t ^s quiet as in the sepul-
chre of their fathers, and. will sleep on blendid
with other dust, until the resurrection morn.

Let not the passer by neglect to receive the
lesson which this place affords, and which is
very simply inculcated on one of the tombs, in
the following Stanza: .

Stop, traveller stop, ere you go by.

As you are now, so once was I; 1 .

As I am now, so you must be;

Prepare yourself to follow me; .>«■ .
The dilapidated tombsythe, cram bding utais,aud

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206 PART 111. ITINRRART OF MALTA.

weather-worn inscriptions, in the more ancient
burial-gronnds, prore what faithless remem^
brancers these are of recording to posterity our
real excellendes ; — ^what a poor substitute for a
set of memorable actions is polished alabaster
or the mimicry of sculptured marble. The only
way of immortalizing our characters, a way
equally open to the meanest and most exalted
fortune, is so to live as not to fear to die. Even
the tongues of those, whose happiness we have
endeavoured to promote, must soon be silent in
the grave; bat this virtue shall be inscribed in
delibly on that book, from which the revolution
of eternal ages shall never efface it.

Close by the English burial-grounds is one
owned by the Greek church.

A new cemetery has lately been constructed
outside the Porte des Bombes at the Pieti, in
a place called Ta Braxia, It is divided into
sections for the several religious creeds that
wish to make use of it and is under the control
of a Committee*

CAPUCHIN CONVENT.

This building, erected under the auspices of
the Grandmaster Yerdala, in the year 1584, is
situated on a very interesting locality, com-
manding an extensive view of the Great Har-
bour and of the country. The lower part of
the edifice is occupied by the church of the

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CHURCHES AT FliOBmNA. 207

convent^ and a spacious court. The upper story
is traversed by several narrow corridors lined
with the cells of the monks^ of which there are
about sixty. The walls of the passages are cover-
ed with pictures^ representing several miracles
performed by the saint of this order. Over
each cell ia a small Latin inscription ta^en from
the Holy Scriptures.

This convent is very much frequented on ho-
lidays, when a great number come here to while
away an hour in traversing the corridors, ex-
amining the pictures whi(xh decorate the walls,
reading the accounts of the mighty deeds of
this brotherhood, chatting with some of the
fraternity, or enjoying the fine air and beautiful
prospect which surrounds the place*

The church contains nothing remarkable.

Below the church is mi extensive vault called
the Cameria, or Charnel-house, which is one
of the most horrifying and disgusting specta<<-
olea I ever beheld. Heire> those monks who
die in the convent, are dressed in their clericals,
and fixed up in niches until they fall to decay.
The bones of such are taken and nailed upon
the walls, in regular order, so as to form a kind
of decoration; and the skulls are Ukewise arran-
ged in rows along the ceiling. In one of the
sides of this vault are two enclosed coffins,
containing the bodies of two friars, who diqd in
odour of sanctity.

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208 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

GASA BELLA MADONNA DI MANRESA.

This building is. situated opposite the New
Central Hospital, and^ was erected in the year
1751 at the expense of D. Pietro Infante,
Grand Prior • of Orato in Portugal. It contains
a small ofeuroh of an oval form, which is one of
the neatest houses of worship I have seen at
Malta. The whole establishment is remarkable
for the plainness and simplicity of its architect
ture; and' at the same time, for its clean and
decent appearance. It consists of several pas-
sages 'or corridors, on the walls of which are
hung a vast variety of old paintings, arranged
in symmetrical order, and lined on both sides
with small rooms, each containing the most ne-
cessary articles of household furniture. In one
angle of the boilditig is a spacious yard, very
tastefully laid out with flowers.

Thi3 institution waa originally intended as a
place of retreat for such persons as wished to
perform the 'Essereise^ of St Ignatius, consisting
of in editatiotis for tefi successive days, during
which ti*ae they secluded themselves from the
rest of the-wdrld, and gave up all- their tempo-
ral caires.' At present it is used for the -same
purpose,* bj^ a'poi?*iDn of the "clergy, during
eight days by such- &s are about to present
themselves fof otxliiaation. The three days of
Carnival is another season whan tbia- establish-
mei^t is sometimes crowded with the more reli-

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CHURGHS8 AT FI^RIANA. 209

gioasly disposed from amoQg tbe respectable
classes of the people^ who pascf the time here
in heating masses, and sermons, confessing^
meditation, and other devout duties. Twice a
jear^ also three days are appointed for such of
the country people who desire to av^l them-
selves of the quiet retirement and religious
privileges which this place affords. The esta-
blishment provides nothing but soup and lodg-
ing for any of the above ; so that all persons
wishing to eujoy better fare must bring it along
with them.

A spacious apartment in the building is set
apart as the public refectory. This is supphed
with chairs and tables for the convenience of
the inmates, who during their stay generally
dine together.

A portion of this edifice was lately turned
into a Seminary by the Archbishop, Mons«
Pace Fomo, for the superior instruction of
the clergy.

Besides the above, there are two other chur-
ches in Floriana, one dedicated to St. Publius,
recently widened after a bad taste of architec-
ture/ and the other called deW Immacolata Oon-
cezione di Maria ; which latter appartains to
the Government. It is generally known by
the name of Sarria, so called after the Cavalier
F. Martino de Sarria, who founded it in the
year 1585. In consequence of a vow made dur-
ing the time of the plague, it was i*epaired

^ Digitized by (^OOglC

210 PART HI. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

and enlarged by the Order in 1676, but con-
tains nothing worth noticing ; except some
paintings by Mattias Preti. On the walls *are
hung many small pictures, placed there as the
fulfillment of vows, representing the persons in
their di»tress, and the real or imaginary cause
of their deliverance.

The suburb of Floriana has increased in im-
portance and in the number of its inhabitants.
It is now a parish independent of that of San
Paolo iu Valletta, to which it was formerly at-
tached. Many public sjtes having been sold
by the government, numerous buildings were
^rapidly raised, and lately, after the demolition
of the old Lunatic Asylum, a great many con-
structions were formed on its pleasant site,
which commands a fine view of the whole ex-
tension of the Grand Harbour.

Having terminated the circuit of Floriana, I
shall now pass over to observe what is most
remarkable on the opposite side of the Great
Harbour, including the throe towns of Borgo,
Burmola and Senglea.

This division of the island contains several
small bays or creeks, formed by narrow penin-
sulas of land jutting oat into the Great Har-
' hour. On the two principal of those stand the
^ cities of Borgo and Senglea, separated by a piece
of water which runs inland as far as the cen-
tre of Burmola, and called formerly the Port of

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CITTA* VITTORIOSA. 211

the Gallies. As the former of tbe above men-
tioned cities was the first residence of the Or-
der we shall give it the precedence in the fol-
lowing dpscription.

BORGO OB CITTA^ VITTORIOSA.

On the arrival of the Knights of St. John at
Malta in 1530^ this spot, which at that time
was only occupied by a few hats^ was selected
as the place of their residence, and from that
circamstance took the name of the Burgh or
Borgo. After the victory gained over the
Tnrks in 1665, (short sketch of which I shall
give at the end of the description of the three
cities) it was dignified with the title of the Gitid
Vittoriosa, or the Victorious City; in comme-
moration of which defeat, a statue of Victory
was erected by the Grandmaster in the sqnare
of St. Lawrence, which exists to the present
day. This city continued to be the seat of go-
vernment until the year 1571, when the whole
bo(?y of the Knights moved over to Valletta,
which from that time became the conventual
residence of the Order.

The site on which the small town of Borgo
stands is very uneven, the streets are unpaved
narrow and irregular, and consequently not re-
markably clean. In general the houses are
built much in the same manner with those of
Valletta, bat come far behind the latter in the

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212 PART IIU ITINERMiY OF MALTA.

neatnees of their exterior, and the finish of their
interior. Though there are several wealthy
persons resident in the citj it is chiefly inha-
bited by the secojid and third classes of the
people, many of whom are engaged in the sea-
faring line.

The inner side of the peninsnla is not walled
in with fortifications these being rendered un-
necessary by the castle of St. Angelo, and the
forts of the Point and St. Michael, on the op*
posite town of Senglea. The enter side, how-
erer, towards the bay called Oaleara, is defend-
ed by a strong wall which reaches the whole
length of the city and encloses it by forming
an angle at the termination of the above men-
tioned bay, and continues the line nntil it joins
with the Harbour of the Oallies. That part of
the bulwark which crosses the peninsnla is de-
fended by a deep ditch, which is traversed by
a bridge leading into the city, and by the cava-
liers of St. John and St. James which overlook
the entrance. The chief defence of the city, as
also of the Great Harbour, is the Castle of St.
Angelo, which on account of its importance
merits a more particular description.

CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO.

The first nofeioe which we have of the occu-
psktion of this site for a place of defence is in the
year 870, when the Arabs, after dispossessing
the Greeks, erected here a small fort for the

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THE NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

ASTOR, LENOX AND
TiLDEN FOUNDATIONS.

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GASTLB OF fiT. AVQBLO. 213

purpose of gnarding tbeir marauding vesseLsr
which anchored in the Great Hftrbonr. On the
arrival of the Knights of St. John it was made
the chief bulwark of the town, and consequent-
ly was very much enkrged. In 1686 new for-
tifications were added to it ander the auspices
of the Grandmaster Gregorio Carafa, and finally
it assumed its presesit state in the year 1690,
under the reign of Adrian de Wignacourt, as
may be seen from an inscription on the outer
gate.

On the site on which this castle stands, there
was formerly the foraous temple of lanus, to
which Cicero refers in his Verrine; it was a
very rich temple until the time of the Roman
domination, and was completely destroyed by
the Arabs.

Towards the mouth of the Great Harbour
this fort presents an imposing front, consisting
of four bcktteries, built one above another in the
style of an anphitheatre, mounting fifty-one
guns beside those which are posted on the ca-
valier and the walls connected with it. The
fort is separated from the town of Borgo by a
ditch, into which the sea runs from the two
harbours which flank it at both extremities.
This ditch is about twenty-five yards in width,
and according to tradition occupies the ancient
site of the temple of the goddess Juno.

St. Angelo is at pretK»t garrisoned by a de-

tachment of British artillery, under the corn-
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214 PART III. ITINERARY OK MALTA.

mand of a captain who occupies the buildings
formerly tenanted by the Grandmaster. The
only object of interest to be noticed within the
walis is an extensive powder magazine^ and a
small Gothic chapel built on a level with the
uppermost battery, and containing two sienibe
pillars which wei:e probably brought by the
Knights from the island of Rhodes.

VICTUALLING YABii.

A large extent of the inner wharf of Borgo
is occupied by a range of magazines, with a
covered portico, furnished with everything ne-
cessary for the supply of the British fleet. This
place is called the Victualling Yard.

A little further from these buildings there
were three long arched entrances, where the
Gallies of the Knights were drawn up to un-
dergo repairs, but they have lately be«n demo-
lished, and in the room of them has been built
a very beautiful edifice for the use of Her Ma-
jesty^s Naval Bakeiy.

The row of buildings which line the mole
above the magazines are at present occupied by
the officers belonging to this naval establish-
ment; they were formerly the residence of the
Captain and Lieutenant General of the fleet
of the Order, and of the Commanders of the
gallies.

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215

INQUISITOR'S PALACE.

This is an extensive building, situated in the
Btreet called Strada delta Porta Mapgiore and
at present forms the mess-house for the officers
of the British garrison stationed at the barracks
of Fort St. Michael in Senglea. Tl^ere is no-
thing particular to be noticed in the upper
part of the edifice, and the passages which lead
down to the cells underground, and which form-
ed the prisonhouse of the poor wretches who
unfortunately fell into the hands of this tribu-
nal, have long since been walled up. About
ten years ago, whilst digging to form a wine
cellar, a rack was discovered in one of the sub-
terraneous apartv^ents.

The office of the Inqi^isition was introduced
in the island of Malta by Pope Gregorio XIII
in the year 1675, during the reign of John de
La Cassiera. This circumstance took place on
account of an action brought against the Bishop
of Malta by the Grandmaster, for interfering
with the religious concerns of the Knights
wbich had ever been ruled and directed by a
council of the Order. In order to decide to
what lengths the bishop's jurisdiction should
extend, Gregory agreed to send an Inquisitor
to Malta, whose intervention, however, was not
accepted until the Council of the Order had
exacted a promise from the sovereign pontiff',
that the officer sent from the court of Rome
should never act but in conjunction with the

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216 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

Grandmaster, the Bfefaop, the Prior of the
ckuroh of Sfe. John, smd the Vice Chaacellor of
the Order ; by which means the new tribunal
was divided between the Inquisition and the
principal officers of the state. But this pru-
dent arrangement lasted a very short tirae.The
Inquisitors, from a spirit of emulation so com-
mon among themselves, and on pretence of
maintaining the authority of the Holy See,
contrived to get fresh assessors ; and, in order
to become absolute in their tribnnal,endeavour-
ed to establish a degree of domination in the
island, and, frequently struggled hard t-o make
it surpwsede the legitimate one. To eflfeot this
purpose, they pursued the following method :
any Maltese who was desirous of throwing off
the authority of the Order might address him-
self to the office of the Inquisition, which im-
mediately presented him with a brief of inde-
pendence, to which was given the name of p^/-
tent. Those who took out the patent were
called the Patentees of the Inquisition ; which
implied, that in consequence of the said patent,
they and all their family were under the imme-
diate protection of the Holy See ; so that in all
causes, eith^ civil or criminal, the patentee
was first tried in Malta by the tribunal of the
Inquisitioa,and,if theooskdemned par fey thought
proper to make a last appeal to the Court
of Rome, he was th^^ tried a second time
by a tribunal eall^dJia Rota. Whilst fehe trial

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inquisitor's palace. 217

lasted^ their persons were secure, and the go^
vernmeni of the Order ooold neither commil
tbem to prison^ nor punish them in any manner
whatsoever.

During' the reign of La Cassiera the Inguigi-
tion had carried its designs to such a pitchy that
three of the holy brotherhood were seixed for
forming a plan, in conjunction with some Spa*
nish Ijnighta, to murder the Grandmaster. In
1657, fourteen years after the establishment of
the tribunal, the Grand Inquisitor Odi raised
dis-turbances by his interference in the election
of a Grandmaster; and in 1711 one named Delci
carried his pretensions to the highest degree of
arrogance. He began by insolently demanding
that the cai'riage of the Grandmaster should
stop on meeting his ; and afterwards insisted
that the infirmary belonging to the Order
should for the future be under his jurisdiction.

This hospital, which had ever been regarded
as the most privileged spot on the island, and
into which even the Marshal of the Order could
Bot enter within leaving his truncheon at the
door, was entrusted to th.e care of some French
Knights, who were particularly zealous for
their liberties, and who acknowledged no supe-
rior authority, but that of the Grand Hospital- ,
ler, who alone was permitted free entrance
without leaving behind him the ensigns of his
dignity ; ye* eren here the officers of the In-
quisition had /the audacity to enter by sarprige^

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218 PART HI. ITINSBARY OF MALTA.

and to begin their viaits of examination. But
the moment the Overseer of the infirmary was
informed of their conduct, he obliged them to
depart immediately, and declared null and void
all their proceedings. The Inquisitor Delci did
not stop here ; bufc without the smallest atten-
tion to the rights of the sovereing,and to prove
his own supsriority, distributed a great number
of patents, such as we have already mentioned
declaring in the most absolute terms, that e-
very Maltese to whom they were granted be-
Clime from that moment exempt from all obe-
dience to the legitimate sovereign (I).

This tribunal continued its proceedings un-
til the arrival of the French, who expoUed
thetn from the island, and confiscated all the
property.

CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES OF BOBGO.

St, Domenic^s ConvenL

Opposite the Inquisitor's Palace is a conv^ent
dedicated to St. Domanic, which is at precfont
occupied by a few friars of the same order. The
upper division of the building consists of seve-
ral passages, containing the cells of the monksj
but the whole is in a very delapi dated condi-

(1) See Boisgelin, toI. ii. p. 140, 195, 2ft0 ; atid Yertot,
i.om. iv, p. 225 e eep.

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CHURCHES AT BORGO. 219

tion^ and unless repaired will soon fall to rnin.
The chnrch connected with the convent might
once have made some pretence to elegance, but
at present it has the appearance of being the
worse for wear.

Ghurch of St Lawrence.

This is the parish-church of the citta Vitto-
riosa, and during the residence of the Order in
this city, was made use of by them as their
place of public worship. It contains several
commodious chapels, and is rather richly orna-
mented. On one side stands an image of St.
Lawrence, holding a large silver gridiron in his
hand. This article was presented to the church
by a Maltese, on the Anniversary of the
feast of the saint, in fulfilment of a vow made
by him during the prevalence of the cholera.
The gridiron is about one yard and a half long
and three quairters wide. The cost was 890 sen-
di, or 66/. 13s. 4d.

The large painting over the high altar of
this Church, representing the Martyrdom of
Saint Lawrence, an excellent work of Matthias
Preti, well deserves the attention of visitors.
This church contains several interesting and
curious articles of sacred vestments brought b]^
the Knights from Bhodes.

Santa Maria dci GrecK

This was formerly one of the chapels whiclr.
belonged to the Greeks who followed tho

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220 PARE HI. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

Knighfes of Sfc. John from Rhodes. The number
of this persuasion having greatly dimini«hed,
this chapel was granted to the Fratelli (I) of
St. Joseph, who have it in their possession at
the present day. The only object of intwest
worth noticing here is the sword and hat,
which the Grandmaster La Vallette wore, on
the day in which he drove the Turks from the
island. They are preserved in a glass case,
with the following inscription engraved on a
marble slab underneath :

Emmanuel Rohanus

Magnus Ordinis Hieros, Magisfer

Sacellum Deiparae Virgini

Gonsuma trice sacrum

Vetustate conlaps^um

Gum omni cultu

Bestuit anno MDGCLXXIX

Idemque providentia sua cavit

ut injuria superiorum temporum. neglccfa

diiCGnliore loco servareniur

Ensis et Galerus

quae Joannes Valletta

ejundem ordinis Supremus Maglster

anno MDLXV

Turcis deviciis

Meliiae obsidione soluta

Repuhlica hone g&sta servantaque

lubcns et laetus

(1), For tke eignifieatioa viihis term see Botd pag^. 10^

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CHUB€H£S AT B0R60. 221

Heic sospes Dei genetrici
suspenderat

Convent of 8ta, Scolastica.

During the time of the Bishop Gargallo, the
auns composing this siterhood were transported
from the Citta Notabile^their original residence
to the present Convent which had formerly
belonged to the Ursuline nuns of the Order of
St. John. This was considered so great an in-
novation by the citizens of the Notabile, that
the Commander Lascaris^ afterwards Grand-
master^ was sent to escort them in safety, lest
they should be seized by the fury of the peo»
pie.

The convent is large, and has a very neat
ohuroli connected with it. On either side of
the altar is a grated window, where thie nuns
are permitted to come, in order to hear mass.
In one of these there is a small opening, from
which they receive the Holy Communion.

BIRMULA OR CITTA' COSPICUA.

This city lies inland between Borgo and
Benglea, and is surrounded with a strong buU
wark, which commences at the counter scarp of
the foimer, and joins on with the walls of the
latter, where they overlook the inner harbour
called the Port of the French. '1^'his fortification

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222 PART in. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

was commenced ia the year 1638, during the
reign of tbe Grandmaster Lascaris, under the
superintendence of the engineer Vincenzo Ma-
ciilano, a Domenican friar sent over by the
Pope for the purpose. The design of the de-
fence was much enlarged under the Grand-
master Perellos, and was finally completed by
Manoel de Vilhena in 1730.

On the hill, called St. Margarita which is
situated just without the chief entrance to the
Citt^ Vittoriosa, is a nunnery dedicated to that
saint, and also a conservatory for girls, under
the direction of the Bishop of Malta. At the
focrt of the hill is ~'a monastery of Carmelite
monks, dedicated^ to St. Teresa. The parish
church called della Goticezione is a spacious
building, but contains little worthy the atten-
tion of the traveller.

The chief part of the town ofBirnmlaia
situated on a low site, and is very thickly po-
pulated. The streets are generally narrow and
irregular, and a great proportion of the houses
especially those situated near the walls, are
nothitig better than hovels. In this quarter,
the city presents a very miserable appearance,
not only from the mean aspect of the dwellings
but fi-om the great accumulation of stones and
rubbish which crowd the fortificatiT^ns. One
side of the wharf of the small harbour of Bir-
mula is occupied by the old dockyard and na-
val arsenal, provided with every thing requisitd

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citta' cospigua. 223

for the supply of the British fleet in the Medi-
terranean. Part of the opposite shore is also
taken up with magazines, destined for the same
purpose.

The extreme southern point of the Birmula
fortifications is defended by the Fort 8t. Fran-
cesco di Paola, garrisoned at present by a de-
tachment of English infantry.

THE NEW DOCK YARD.

This magnificent ornament was for a very
long time designed by the Order of St. John ;
in fact during the reing of the Grandmaster
Eohan its construction was commenced in the
Harbour of the French, but on account of some
unforseen diflSculties its continuation was sus-
pended.

In the year 1815 the British Government
meditated likewise such a work at a short di-
stance from the site on which the present
exists ; but as after some years of labour and
considerable expense, the rock had been
found porous and full of cracks, it was also gi-
ven up. ' '

The site for the construction of this splendid
addition to the port of Malta was made by cut-
ting off the inner extremity of the harbour of
the G allies precisely opposite the market of
Birmula. On each side around the dock are
seen new buildings, suitable for manufacturing
and repairing steam- engines and other nayal

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224 PART IIL ITIKBRARY OF MALTA.

articles as also ooal wharfs &ic., and thas they
included all stores of different naral depart-
ments.

The foundation of the work was laid in 1841
and the first pile was driven in the spring of
1843, under the superintendence of Bear Ad-
miral Sir John Lewis. The first stone of the
wall of the bason was laid on the 1st of May
1848, at a depth of 43 feet and 6 inches below
the level of the sea;, and the first stone of the
Dock-Yard was solemnly laid by H. B. the Go-
vernor Sir Patrick Stuart on the 28th of June,
1844 occuring the anniversary of hor most
gracious majesty Queen Victorians coronation.
The ceremony was attended by the eclat that
so important an occasion merited. The dock
was opened also by the late Governor under the
superintendence of Rear Admiral Sir Lucius
Curtis ; but the first vessel which entered its
gates for the purpose of being overhauled was
H. M^s. Steamer Antelope under the Rear Ad-
miral Superintendent Edward Harvey; the
Antelope was received in the dock on Saturday
the 5th of Sep<;^mber, 1848. Thus Sii- John
Lewis had the honor of commencing this splen-
did ornament : Sir L. Curtis had the principal
share in directing its continuation ; and Rear
Admiral Edw. Harvey had the honor of first
rendering it practically useful.

The following account of its dimensions, and
the persons who have been pricicipally engaged

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THE DOCK YARD. 225

(n planning and directing the construction of
its different parts, will we believe, be found to-
lerably correct :

Wholo length firom eutranca to tlM head 310 feet.

Length of the floor inside — — 230 „

Width at level of Coping — __ 82 „

Depth of water in dock — — 25 „

Depth of water npon the apron— — 23 ,,

The plan of the dock was the result of an
inspection by Capt. Bradreth, R. E. Director
of works to the Lords of the Admiralty. The
plan and working drawing were furnished by
W. Scamp Esq. to whom is also due in a great
measure, the honor of the execution of this no-
ble and useful work. The works were carried
on by M. Walter Elliot from 1845 to May
1847, when the dock itself was completed. The
Caisson was built in England, aud fitted up in
Malta; and the removal of the Coffer Dam, as
well as the immediate charge of the works in
connection with the dock, were in the skilful
hands of Mr. John Scott Tucker, late Admiralty
Engineer at Bermuda.

The estimated cost of the dock, as laid before
Parliament, was £45,000; it has however cost
£60,000; the caisson costs about £3,000, and
the factory buildings £40,000. What immense
Jbenefit to the island the expenditure of the
principal part of this enormous sum in wages
and materials has been! It is useless for us to

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226 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

describe; but we consider this to have been
but a trifling part of the advantage. The pre-
sence of so many able Engineers and foremen
lias been, we doubt not, of considerable service
to the native workmen, and many of them will
have the occasion to look back with satisfaction
and gratitude to the day when they first began
to contribute their portion to this splendid mo-
nument of British liberality.

We congratulate the Mother Country on the
completion of her magnificent work and our
Island on its acquisition of this proof of British
affection. It is indeed a work fraught with much
importance to England as the first maritime po-
wer, and will, in a mercantile point of view,
prove no less beneficial to the inhabitants of this
Island.

A few years after the dock was completed, it
was not found sufficiently large to admit large
steamers, and it was therefore found necessary
to extend it to the whole length of the old
market of Cospicua, these new works were so-
lemnly inaugurated on the return of Admiral
Lord Lyons with the fleet from the Crimea.

Another more extensive Dock is now annexed
to the former one, its entrance being from the
.French Creek, which is exclusively occupied by
the Admiralty.

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SBNGLEA OR ISOLA. 227

Following the road leading norfch from the
above mentioned fort, we arrive at the outskirts
of the city of Senglea.

SENGLEA oB ISOLA,

This cjty is sitnated upon the peninsula op-
posite Borgo, having the Harbour of the Gallies
on one side, and that of the French on the
other. Towards the former it is not walled in,
but a strong bastion extends the whole length
of the town towards the latter and then crosses
the peninsula at the entrance of the principal
gate, forming an exact counterpart to the for-
tifications on the opposite side : so that a line
run across the extremities of the Galley Port
would connect the walls of both cities. The
chief defence of Senglea is the strong fortress
of St. Michael which commands the entrance
into the town, as well as the two harbours by
which it is flanked. This fort was erected in
the year 1552 by the Grandmaster John D' 0-
medes; the walls and other fortifications were
raised in the subsequent reign by Claude de la
Sengle, from whom the city took its name.
Previous to this was called Ohersoneso, and after
the siege of 1565 was known by the name of
Isola or the Citta Invitta,

On the mole of the inner harbour was the
Merchants Yard, where all Maltese vessels and
boats were built ; on the outer, towards the

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228 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

end, is a large building, formerly appropriated
to the Captains of the gallies, but now being
improved, is occupied by several officers of the
Dock Yard Department. This wharf is known
by the name of La Sirena, ( the Syren ) from
ihe circumfitanoe that a figure of this creature
formerly stood over the entrance into a small
cave, at the commencement of the mole^ to
which the natives were accustomed anoieisttly to
resort as a place of amusement.

Sengleaisin every respect superior to Borgo
and Birmula. It contains many well built
houses, and the streets are in general tolerably
good, though none of them are paved. It in-
cludes one large church and a monastery : the
former dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin
Mary, and the latter to St. Philip. On the wall
just inside the entrance of the church is a mar-
ble slab, containing an inscription, put up to
record the fidelity of the inhabitants during the
siege, and obstinate refusal to accept tho offer-
ed bribes from the Turks in order that they
should desert the Order ; for which gallant ac^
tion they^ were freed from the annual tribute,
which they previously paid to the knight^.
The writing is as follows.

D. 0. M,

Amplis, Hier, Ordini,

Pnneipi MunifieentissimOy

Pideiy ei Bellirae virtutis remuneratof'i

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I3SN6LBA OR I80LA. 229

ob Ubsratum popolvan ah (mere census

decreio sacri concUii siatvs

wiiio, Magistero vacante,

IX Fehruarii MDO. cub incamato Christo

Senglea Civitds Invida

Graii atiimi monumentum p.

On the wharf of the Sirena is a small estab-
lishment^ founded in the year 1794 by Nicola
Dingli and Maria Cornelia^ two wealthy Mal-
tese, for ihe reception of female oonFalescents
belonging to this city and the village Siggieui,
who are received and lodged here for eight day«
jjfter they leave the Pnblic Hospital. There is
a small chapel connected with this institution:

COTTONERA FOBTIFICATIONS.

This is bulwark,extending for several miles
from the city Vittoriosa round the whole of
Birmula with the Firenzuola fortifications, and
joining the bastion of Senglea, was built in the
year 1670 by the Grandmaster Nichoias Coto-
ner, and originally intended as a safe retreat
for the whole population of the country in case
of a siege. The fort of St. Salvador, erected
by the Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, occu-
pies an elevated position on the Cottonera lines
about a mile to the east of Vittoriosa, and com-
pletely commands that city. In case of attack,
this situation would be very dangerous in the
handi^ of an enemy.

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230 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

Within these vast lines of fortifications the
Verdala Fortress has been constructed in the
form of a citadel, and is now garrisoned by a
regiment of the Line.Extenaive tanks were also
excavated under the administration of fcJir H.
Bouverie and Sir G . Le Marchant.

CAPUCHIN CONVENT. '

Without the gate of St. Salvador, situated
in a very pleasant and elevated spot, stands the
above convent, built under the auspices of the
Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena. The only
worth noticing in the church is a small chapel,
built after the model of the House of Lorefo, .
NAVAL HOSPITAL.

The hill upon which this building is erected
is known by the name of Bighi, so called after
a Prior of the same name, who built a residence
for himself on the present site of the Hospi-
tal. It is situated on a small piece of land,
jutting out between the bay called Renella and
that of Galcara, Until within the last five
years, when the Naval Hospital was removed
to this spot, it occupied a building within the
walls of Vittoriosa. The present establishment
is well worth the traveller's attention. The edi-
fice is neat and extensive, and every thing re-
quisite for the comfort of the patients is amply
provided. A wide space of ground is walled in
round the building, and is planted with shrubs

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NAVAL HOSPITAL. 231

and trees, forming a delightful walk for such as
are convalescent,

FORT RICA SOLI.

This fort was founded in the year 1670 by
the Cavalier Gianfrancesco Bicasoli, who con-
tributed the sum of £3000 towards defraying
the expenses of the buildings and endowed it
with a large portion of his income. The Grand-
master Cottoner publicly acknowledged his gra-
titude to the knight for so generous an action^
and ordered that it should be called after his
name, Sicasoii. This fortress is built on the
extreme point of an angular projection^ and
corresponds with St. Elmo on the opposite
shore. The two forts together command the
entrance into the Great Harbour. ' In itself it
is a place of considerable strength, and is ad-
ditionally guarded by the bulwarks which ex-
tend and ramify towards the Cottonera Jines.
Prom the sea, this fort, if tolerably garrisoned,
would be quite impregnable. From the land
side it could only be reached by surmounting a
long succession of strongly defended posts, at
each of which the assailants would be subject
to imminent, almost insuperable danger.

On the 8rd of April 1807, this fort was the
scene of an event, which as it is but little
known, may be worth recording. During the
progress of the war, when the necessity of large
nailitary supplies was hardly satisfied by the

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232 PART in, ITIlSKKAItY OF MALTA.

resoarces of our caontry, the expedient was
adopted by our Government of entering into a
commercial contract with different speculators,
who engaged, for a certain remuneration^ to le-
vy troops, according to the emergency, from
the peasantry of different countries, to be ren-
dered disposable for foreign service when that
service did not seem to require more trustwor-
thy: or veteran troops. A French noble proposed
to raise for the Mediterranean service a regiment
composed entirely of Greeks.The bargain being
8truck,he proceeded to gather together from the
Levant, Aichipelago and the Continent, a horde
of various men, Greeks, Albanians, Sclavonians
and what not, who were to be enrolled under
the English banners, with the title of Fro-
berg^s Regiment In a short time they were
equipped, transported to Malta, and appointed
to occupy this fort. The officers who had been
placed over them were chiefly Germans ; and in
order to perfect them more, an English drill-
seijeant or two, with an officer, were appointed
to the same duty, and some artillerymen as
nsual remained in the garrison to superintend
the guns. The severity exercised over the Fro-
bergs by their commanders was increasingly
aggraved, when they found that all the spa-
cious promises of professional dignity, with
which they had been lured into the service,
were vain and delusive. A frequ^it use of bo-
dily punishment, often inflicted by caprice, ri-

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PORT RICASOLI. 233

pened these soldiers for ribeilion, i^nd the occa-
sion of an officer striking a drummer on the
face with a cane was the signal for open revolt.
Several officers were killed by the rebels, and
finally they closed the gates against the garri-
son of Valletta and declared themselves inde-
pendent.

In their stronghold, these rebels bid defiance
to the numerous troops that were at that time
stationed in the garrison, and the dubious mea-
sures of the military governor Villetes, then
second in command, so far assisted them, as to
leave nothing to be dreaded but the consequence
of blockade, which was established forthwith. An
English artillery-officer and several of his men,
who were still imprisoned within the fort, were
obliged to assist in pointing the guns, and fir-
ing over shot into the city.

The scarcity of provisions and the absence of
all subordination among the revolters, soon
produced intestine quarrels, which, as might
be expected in such a company, soon terminat-
ed in bloodshed. * This state of things did not
continue long ; a large section burst open the
gates, threw themselves in the midst of the
English troops, leaving behind about one hun-
dred and fifty of their companions in possession
of the fort.

These resolute fellows still continued to mT***
the walls, and to keep up their former hr-^tiie
proceedings. Their affaire, however, wei*"® ^^^

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234 PART III. ITINMRARY OF MALTA,

rendered desperate. An English Naval Officer,
named Capt. Collins, offered to take upon him-
self the capture of the fort ; and accordingly
succeeded in stormingit by night,and in secur-
ing all the men, with the exception of sis, who
took possession of the powder-magazine, and
there defied the courage of the assailants,by pro-
testing that they would blow it up iu case they
preserved in their endeavours to seize them.

Of the numbertaken,ten werehungand fifteen
musketted,on the plain of Ploriana.Their execu-
tion,however,was carried on in the most inhuman
and barbarous manner.Pinioned and handcuffed
they were made to kneel upon their coffins with-
out being blindfolded, and after the first volley
fii'ed at them, several, still clinging to hfe, rose
up and ran about the plain pursued by the sol-
diers like so many hares.One in particular made
great efforts to escape; after stumbling close by
a well into which he had attempted to throw
himself, he managed to reach the bastions, from
which he cast himself headlong the height of one
hundred and fifty feet. The soldiers in pursuit
followed him to the place of his fall, were find-
ing that he still lived, they soon put an end to
his miserable existence.

But to return to the six rebels, who conti-
nued in possession of the powder magazine,
i^nfident of making advantageous terms with
the Governor, they persisted in their obstinate
resisttouice, and made no advances towards a

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FORT BIOASOLT. 235

suiTender. From time to time some one pre-
sented himself in order to negotiate with the
besiegers, but to no avail ; nothing but an un-
conditional surrender would be listened to by
the commandant. Five days passed away in
this manner, during which time, all their ur-
gent entreaties for provisions were obstinately
refused, and the unfortunate wretches were re-
duced to a most pitiable condition. On the
sixth these entreaties were pressed with additio-
nal importunities, and seconded with the threat,
that in case of a refnsul, or the non- assurance
of pardon, they would blow up the fort as soon
as the first vesper-bell tolled from St. John's
cathedral. No notice was taken of this despe-
rate menace, or any thought entertained that
these six men valued life so little as to join to-
gether in so horrible a de§ign for their own des-
truction. All was still until the appointed hour,
when the fatal crash was heard, the stones of
the magazine were seen rising in the air, and
the whole building, with a part of the fortifica-
tion, was reduced to ruins. The loss sustained
by the besiegers from this explosion Was consi-
derable.

Some time had already elapsed, and the affair
of the rebels had ceased to be talked of, when a
priest returning home on a donkey, from a
rather solitary quarter in the direction of the
fort, was assailed by a man dressed in the
Froberg uniform, who pointed his musket at

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236 PAiiT I If. ifi>iEiiAR^ OT Malta*

him over a wall, and apparently intendecl i6
make him the receptacle for its contents. The
affrighted father immediately took to his heels,
and upon his ai*rival at home made known the
circumstance to the police.An armed body was
forthwith sent in pursuit of the bandit, which
suceeded in discovering the retreat of the six
poor wretches, whom it was imagined had been
blown up with the magazine. Pale and ema-
ciated tney were secured with ease,and let into
the town, and soon afterwards received the
full reward of their inhuman deeds by a public
execution.

Prom their own account of their escape, it
appears, that during the siege they had conti-
nued to carry out one of the mines to the pre-
cints of the foi*tifications,leaving but a slender
wall to abstract their jfetreat, which they might
throw down in a mcwnent, during the night,
without any noise, when they wished to escape.
Until this work was completed, they continued
to make every appearance of holding out, but
when all was ready, a train of powder was laid
at sufficient distance to secure them from the
effects of the explosion, and which they kindled
at the precise time of their threat. It seems
to have been the hope of the rebels, that in get-
ting free from the fort, they might fall in with
some vessels on the coast, and thus make their
escape from the island. It afterwards appeared,
that they had actually attempted to seize a

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FORT BICASOLI. ^37

small boat^ upon which occasion they narrowly
escaped from being apprehended,

Later^ this fort was the scene of another ca^
tastrophe. At the appearance of the Cholera
in the year 1837,the inmates of the Poor- House
and Hospital of Incurables, amongst whom a
few cases of the fell disease had manifested
themselves, were removed to this fort, with the
view of entirely separating them from the po«.
pulation; but almost all those most unfortunate
beings were mown down by death in the brief
period of a few days. The place oflFered a most
horrible spectacle,

On the bfbstion nearor the sea a Lighthouse
has been constructed to point out to mariners
the dangers attending the entrance into tha
Grand Harbour from that part,

SIEGE OP BORGO AND SEISTGLEA,

As I have had occasion during the foregoing
description to revert several times to the siege
of 1565, in which the above two cities were in-
vested for upwards of two months, I shall pro-
ceed to give a shorti account of that event, in
order that by the associations of history, an
increased interest may be felt in examining the
localities with which they are connected.

After the capture of St. Elmo by the Turks,
which I have already noticed in my description
of that fort, a christian slave was sent from tho

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238 PART ni. ITINERARY 0^ MALTA.

Turkish camp to St. Angelo, in order to propo*
se a negotiation ; but being sent back with an
answer of defiance, the entire peninsulas of the
Bourgh and La Sengle were invested without
delay. The latter town, and its principal de-
fence, fort St. Michael, were the points against
which the besiegers dii-ected their fire. Several
batteries, planted on Mount Sceberras and the
hill of Corradin, completely commanded these
posts, and as they were esteemed the weakest,
the flower of the Order undertook their defence,
l^he harbour of the French alone remained o-
pen, and here the Ottoman leader determined
to make his principal assault ; but as it was
impossible for a flotilla to pass under the bat-
teries of St. Angelo without certain destruction
he determined to adopt the expedient of trans-
porting a number of boats from Marsamuscetto
into the Great Harbour, across the isthmus
which joins Mount Sceberras to the mainland.
The desertion of a Greek officer from his service,
however, put the knights in timely posses-
sion of this project, and occasioned it to be ma-
terially altered.

Thus forewarned, the Grandmaster prepared
to defeat the comtemplated assault. The sea-
ward walls of La Sengle were heightened by
his orders, and the cannon on them brought
to command the inner port at every point ;
while a vast stockade, extending from Mount
Corradino to the point of Senglea was formed,

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SIEGE OP BORGO. 239

by driving huge piles into the shallow water,
and then fixing a chain on the top of them by
raeans of iron rings. In order to remove this
barrier, Mustapha dispatched a band of expert
swimmers under the cloud of night, with axes
in their girdles, to open a passage through the
booms and palisades ; but the noise of these
adventurers alarmed the garrison, and the guns
on the walls im media telj' commenced a fierce
cannonade. Being too elevated, they threw
their shot over the heads of the Turks, and
therefore proved ineffective; but at the sugges-
tion of Admiral de Monte, a party of Maltese
swimmers were dispatched against thom, and
after a sanguinary combat in the water, com-
pletely routed the Turks. A subsequent attempt
was made to destroy the booms, and stakes, by
raeans of cables worked on the shore by ships
capstans ; but this also was baffled by the in-
trepidity of the marines, who swam out again
and cut the ropes.

Enraged at being thus circumvented in a
favourite project, the Pasha, on the 5th of July
ordered his guns to open simultaneously on the
two towns. Accordingly, the vast batteries
which had been raised on the hill of Sta. Mar-
garita and the rock of Corradino commenced a
furious cannonade against Fort St. Michael,
and the bulwark of Senglea, while those on
]V[ount Sceberras and the hill of Salvador played
on Borgo and the castle of St. Angelo. The

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2.40 PART m. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

cannonade did not cease until considerable
breaches were made in the advanced works of
both towns, and the Pasha was only delayed
from making an attempt to storm the latter,
from a desire that the Viceroy of Algiers would
Boon arrive with a reinforcement to share in the
assault.

Hassan, the leader of the algerine troops,
soon came, aceompanied by two thousand five
hundred chosen soldiers. He was the son of
the famous BarbaTOssa, and the son-in-law of
the scarcely less famous Dragut, who lost his
life on the cape on which Fort Tigne stands.
To this young warrior was committed, at his
own request, the land attack on Fort St. Mi-
chael, and to Candelissa his lieutenant, the naa-
ritime part of the enterprise. Under his super-
intendence, and in accordance with the Pasha's
original project, a number of boats were drag-
ged overland from Marsamuscetto and launched
in the Great Harbour, where they were manned
with four thousand Algerine and Turkish sol-
diers. Under a galling fire of round shot and
musketry, the enemy sprang bravely upon the
stockade, which obstructed the entrance of his
fleet into the French Harbour, and with ham-
mers and hatchets endeavoured to demolish it.
Afier several attempts they succeeded in form-
ing a passage to an uncovered part of the
beach at the extremity of Senglea. This head-
land was defended by a battery of six -guns,

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SIEGE OF BORGO. 241

playing level with the water, and by a strong
intrenchment, whithin which were posted a
number of expert harquebusiers. Several dis-
charges of shot among the assailants greatly
diminished their numbers ; but rendered des-
perate by the perik which surrounded them,
after a combat of five hours, they forced the
defenders to retire, and planted seven Turkish
ensigns on the summit of the intrenchment.

The sight of the Moslem standard floating
triumphantly on this outwork, filled the knights
with shame and indignation, and a fresh
body of them, headed by Admiral De Monte,
renewed the battle. After a severe conflict,
the Turkish pennons were torn down, and their
defenders driven headlong from the rampart.
All those who failed to reach the boats were
sacrificed, many were shot while swimming after
their boats, and of the boats themselves many
were sunk by the fire of the batteries.

The landward attack, headed by the Algeri-
ne Viceroy in person, was not more successful.
At the sound of a signal gun, his troops rushed
gallantly towards the breaches on the side of
the Birmula Gate and the castle of St. Michael
and in a short space, a small corps of Algeri-
nes displayed their ensigns on several points of
the parapet. A murderous discharge, however
fr<Mn the cannon of the fort poured death into
the heart of the enemy, and drove them back
again with great slaughter. Unable to stand
p

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242 PART in. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

the steady and destructive fire of the knights,
the Viceroy at length sounded a retreat, leaving
the flowers of his troops lifeless at the foot of
the rampart.

The Turkish general did not fail to follow up
this bloody effort with a fresh attack, but vvas
again as violently repulsed by the bravery of
the knights. Undismayed, however, by these
successive repulses, he ordered a kind of bridge
to be constructed by means of which he anti-
cipated his troops would able to enter the
works. The Grandmaster, who regarded this
contrivance with apprehension, made two at-
tempts to burn it by night ; but the sleepless
vigilance of the enemy rendered them futile,
He at length determined to make a final at-
tempt to destroy it by day, and his nephew,
Henry de La Vallette, was intrusted with the
perilous duty. 'At the head of a body of picked
men, and in the teeth of a heavy fire from the
Turks, he sallied out, accompanied by a brother
knight, with the intention of fastening a num-
ber of strong ropes to the principal posts and
beams of the bridge^ so as to enable them to
drag it by main force from its position. The
design, however, was bajHed by the fierce fire
of the arquebusiers, and the followers of young
La Vallette bore back the lifeless remaips of,
their leader into the fortress.

The Grandmaster, though secretly mourning
the fate of his nepheW; did not allow himself to

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SIEGE OF BORGO, 243

be deteii*ed for a moment from effecting his
purpose. By his orders, an entrance was open-
ed in the wall, immediately facing the bridge,
through which a piece of artillery was brought
to play on the whole structure. A few dis-
chargers shattered it in such a manner as to
render it unserviceable ; and on the following
night, it was set on fire and consumed to ashes.
Disconcerted by this event, the Pasha again
ordered the Turkish batteries to open upon the
two towns with redoubled activity, and tbe
contest waxed daily more bloody and desperate,
for four successive days the Christians were
engaged in incessant skirmishes on the wall of
La Sengle;andat length on the 2nd of August,
the Turkish horns sounded an escalade. The
Turks fought with extraordinary obstinacy ;
but at the end of six hours their ardour abated
and they retii'ed from the breaches leaving
them chocked with their dead. Five days af-
terwards, simultaneous attacks wei^e made on
Fort St. Michael and the bastion of Castile.
The Janissaries, who led the van of the battle,
advanced against the former fortress with war-
like shouts, and though the ground over which
they crossed was strewn with mutilated bodies,
they fought their way to the top of the breach,
and for four hours maintained their position. At
this crisis, not only the knights, but the citi-
zens, men, women and children, hovered on
the skirts of the combat and supplied their

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244 PART in. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

protectors with refreshments or flung missiles
and fire-works into the Ottoman ranks. Wea-
ried and oppressed with fatigue the Christians
prepared for the worst, when suddenly, to their
astonishment and joy, they heard a recall
sounded along the Turkish line. This season-
able relief was occasioned by a diversion on the
part of the Governor of the Cittk Notabile, who
observing from his post the cloud of smoke
which enveloped Fort St. Michael, hastily or-
dered a few squadrons of cavalry to make an at-
tack on the nearest point of the Turkish posi-
tion. The knights who commanded this detach-
ment led it down to Marsa, and massacred
all the sick and wounded which were found in
the hospital of the enemy. The fugitives who
had escaped carried the news, that the Sicilian
succours had arrived, which caused Mustapha,
at the moment of victory to relinquish the
breach, and to march against this new foe.
His indignation knew no bounds when he dis-
covered the true state of the case ; and had it
not been of the harassed condition of his sol-
diers and the entreaties of his officers, he
would have immediately marched back to the
field.

More than a fortnight elapsed before a new
attempt was made. On the 18th of August,
the patience of the Turkish leaders became
quite exhausted ; and they once more made an
attack on the castle of St. Michael^ with the

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SIEGE 05' BORGO. . 245

i'esolution of continuing it day and night until
the towns were taken. A previous cannonade
had almost rased a part of the walls of St. Mi-
chael ; but it was in vain that the enemy en-
deavoured to break through the barriers which
the besieged formed with their bodies. The
assault was suspended for some time, and was
again renewed after sun-set ; but the assailants,
dishearteued by their frequent repulses soon
gave up the attempt for the night.

August the 19th ^the assault was renewed
with undiminished resolution, and nontinued
on the 20th but with little success on the part
of the enemy, though at a great expense of life
on the side of the besieged.

The garrison had by this time become greatly
diminished, the walls were mined in every di-
rection, many of the outworks were in the hands
of the Turks and the Knights advised the
Grandmaster to blow them up and to retire
into the fortress of St. Angelo. But La Val-
lette sternly rejected this counsel, and deter-
mined to keep his ground to the last.

No fresh assault was made until the 1st of
September, when the Janissaries endeavoured
again to take possession of the breach ; but
their adversaries, and after a dreadful carriage
they were obliged to retire from the conflict.
At this crisis, when the battle was almost won
by the valour of the knights, the long expected
succours arrived from Sicily. The forces as-
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246 PABT III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

sembled were two hundred knights, and about
eight thousand veteran troops, who disembark-
ed on the morning of the 7th of September,
in the bay of Melleha, together with their arms
and military stores. As soon as this expedi-
tion was landed, the Viceroy set sail and return-
ed back to Sicily.

Though warned of the arrival of this reinforce-
ment, the Turks imagined that nothing moi'e
would be tried than to force the entrance of the
Great Harbour. Under this impression, they
blocked the entrance with stakes and booms,
and held themselves in readiness to defend the
barrier. Their consternation, consequently, was
extreme, when their scouts announced that a
Christian army had actually landed, and was in
full march against their camp. Eumour mag-
nified the Sicilian troops into an overwhelm-
ing force, and without waiting to ascertain
their real force, the Turkish general instantly
drew his garrison out of Fort St. Elmo, aban-
doned all his heavy ordnance, and hurried on
board his fleet. Scarcely, however, had he
accomplished this sudden movement, than he
obtained authentic information as to the num-
ber of his new enemies, and filled with shame,
he ordered his army to be relanded. But in a
few hours the labour of months had been ren-
dered futile. The Maltese had already levelled
his Hues and entrenchments, and the standard
of St. John once more waved over the cavalier

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SIEGE OF BORQO. 247

of St. Elmo. A few skirmishes took place in
the interior between the two parties ; but the
last efforts of the Turkish leaders to i'etrieve a
long series of reverses were ineffectual. On
the same day the whole army embarked; and
immediately weighed anchor for Constantinople.
Thus ended this memorable siege, in which
25,000 Turkish soldiers perished. On the other
side, the loss was also great, amounting to
between seven and eight thousand citizens, be-
sides two hundred and sixty knights. The eight
of September, the anniversary of the raising of
the siege, is still continued to be celebrated as
a general festival throughout the island (1).

Before visiting the different villages of the
Island, the attention of the stranger is drawn
to the- new Cemetery recently constructed near
Casal Tarscien, at a little distance from the
head of the Grand Harbour. It occupies the
whole extent of a hill, and at the top contains
a beautiful Church of the Gothic order. This
cemetery, which may be considered as one of
the finest Necropolis in Europe, was modelled
after the Nord cemetery of Paris, and built at a
considerable expense. It is destined for the.

(1) The chief part of the above sketch has been compiled
from vol. u of the "Knights of Malta," in Constable's
Miscellany.

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248 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

burial of corpses from the four cities, Valletta,
Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea, including
the suburb of Floriana. The place will be great-
ly embellished by the plantation of trees and
the formation of elegant monuments.

. INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND.

Having visited all the interesting places in
the city of Valletta and its suburbs, I shall
proceed to point out what is most deserving of
notice in the remaining part of the island.
But as it is not my intention to describe every
village in the country, which would only be
tedious to the general reader, I shall here-
with subjoin a list of them with their popula-
tion according to the census taken in the year
1861.

1st District,
City Notabile7 tio^•i
andRabatoi ^^^^^
Casal Dingli 594
2nd District,
Casal Zebbug 4884
— Siggieui 2641
3rd District,
Casal Birchircara6292
Sliema 324

St. Giuliano 476
Misida 1148

Casal Attard 1239

— Lia 1371

— Balzan 662
4th District,

Casal Naxaro 2768

— Melleha 975

— Musta 3828

— Gargur 1200
5th District,

Casal Curmi 6197

— Luca 1592

— Tarxienl265

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INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND. 249^

Casal Paola 485 Casal Micabiba 894

6th District, 7th District,

Casal Zurrico 2797 Casal Zeitnn 5491

— Crendi 949 — Zabbar 4327

— Safi 286 — Ashiak . 1200

— Chircop 409 — Gudia 932
The most remarkable objects of interest in

these tillages are the parish churches, which
are in general well built, commodious,and plen-
tifully ornamented with images and paintings.
The Maltese are veiy liberal in this respect,
aud seem to vie with one another which shall
possess the most splendid house of worship.

Amongst these Parish Churches, the follow-
ing are remarkable: that of Zeitun, for its
beauty and architectural proportions; that of
Zebbug, for its rich decorations and silver
treasures; that of Siggieui, for the elegance of
its new portico; that of Gudia, for its new bell-
tower and the measured sound of its bells made
in London; and that of Birchircara for its
vastness and fine bells. Generally, all the Chur-
ches of Malta, except the oldest ones, such as
that of Attard, Nasciaro, and the old one of
Birchircara, suffer from the decay of architect-
ural taste in the past century: the barocco style
everywhere prevails.

The new Church at Musta deserves the at-
tention of the visitor. It is a round Temple,
equal in vastness to the Pantheon at Rome. Its
Dome is as wonderful las its beauty and the

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250 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

harmony of its majestic architecture. It is one
of the most remarkable modern monuments of
Christianity. Its construction was commenced
in 1832 and finished in 1862 on the designs of
the late talented Architect, Mr. Giorgio Gro-
gnet de Vasse, a Maltese who is buried in the
same Church projected by him and raised by
the inhabitants of that village.

All the villages are divided into seven districts
and in every one there is stationed a Syndic,
or sheriff, who has a certain number of police
under his command for the preservation of the
peace. This officer is authorized to act as ma-
gistrate, and may decide any civil cause, within
the limits of his jurisdiction, not including a
value of more than £5.

An appeal may be made from this Court to
that of three Magistrates in Valletta. — These
Courts of the Syndics have no criminal j uris-
diction.

The common vehicle lately used for travelling
in Malta was called a calesse; a kind of carriage
with two wheels, drawn by one horse or male.
Some of these conveyances aro intended for
two persons only, others carry four. The dri-
ver is obliged to walk or run at the side, and
with a small piece of wood, called a niggiesa, in
which two short nails are fixed, pricks the ani-
mal in order to urge him onward. The roads
in the country, especially those leading to the
principal villages, are in general sufficiently

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INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND. 251

good for the nin of these vehicles ; but in the
uninhabited parts^they are rugged,and in some
cases travelling on horseback would be dan-
gerous. The hire of a good horse for a day is
about five shillings, the same price is generally
paid for a calesse.

Of late years however carriages have almost
entirely replaced the calesses, and in the begin-
ing of the year 1857 an Omnibus company was
established as a means of conveyance between
Valletta and the principal Casals and vice versa.

Having made these preliminary observations
I shall imagine the traveller leaving Port de
Bombes, and taking the principal road, called
St. Giuseppe towards the Old City, After pro-
ceeding for about two miles, he will reach a
long succession of arches which form part of

THE ACQUEDUCT.

This stupendous work was begun in the
year 1610, during the reign of the Grandmaster
Alofio Wignacpurt, and was., complected in the
space of five year. Previous to its erection, in
case of scarcity of water ii\ summer, owing to
little rain having fell during winter, the inha-
bitants of the town w^re obliged to transports
water from a spring at the eud of the Great
Harbour, called Ain Filep, which made it very
expensive and inconvenient. In order to pro-
vide a suflScient supply several springs were
united together by subterraneous conduits, and

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252 PARt lU. Itll^ERAKY OV MAtTA.

their waters made to flow into the one channel.
The chief spring rises at a place called D^'ur
ChanduU about two miles west of Citta Vecchia.
As far as Casal Attard the acqneduct is under-
ground, it afterwards alternately rises and falls
with the unevenne?s of the ground, until it
reaches the city .The whole length of its course
is about nine and a half English miles.

To this Aqueduct were lately added the wa*
tors found in the vicinity of Casal Curmi and
discovered near Casal Dingli. The water found
at the Marsa, which is somewhat saltish, being
too near the sea, is conveyed through iron tu-
bes to the Grand Harbour and Burmola, where
it is distributed for the use of the inhabitants.
Some steam-pumps draw that water from the
cisterns, the supply of which is almost equal to
one third of that of the Wignacourt Aqueduct
to which new springs were added to increase
the supply of water.

About five miles fi'om Valletta, a little to the
right of the San Giuseppe road, are the

GARDENS AND PALACE OF ST, ANTONIO

built by the Grandmaster De Paula, and after^
wards appropriated as a, country-seat by his
successors. The palace is spacious and com-
modious, and the situation exceedingly plea-
sant. The garden is extensive and contains a
great abundance of fruit trees^laid out in a very

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GARDENS OF ST. ANTONjiO, 253

neat and regular order. The numerous ponds
and fountains whicli are met with in the paved
walks, and which may be made to scatter out
water in different directions, add considerably
to the interest of the place; one may easily have
access to these gardens.

The Governor Sir W. Reid has added to
these gardens a small agrarian museum, as also
an agricultural school for the inhabitants
of the country.

LUNATIC ASYLUM.'

The new Lunatic Asylum, a work inaugurat-
ed by Governor More O'Perrall, and finished,
under the administration of Sir G. LeMarchant
is situated at about a mile distant from this
Villa, on the road leading to Citta Vecchia.
This vast building is one of the most beautiful
in Europe, for the excellent order of Its con-
struction, the perfection of its regulations, and
the luxury of its accomodation. The Asylum,
which was formerly a simple house at Floriana,
is now a large and regular establivshmenfc, lying
in the declivity of the valley of Wied Incita, a
lonely, pleasant, and quiet abode of so many
unfortunate beings, formerly treated with al-
most brutal cruelty. It has a plentiful supply of
water from the Wignacourt Aqueduct.

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254 PAHT III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.
CITTA' VECCHIA OE NOT A BILE.

Leaving St. Antonio, and passing through
Casal Attard, where there is a fine church, half
an hour's ride will bring the traveller to the old
City, situated on one of the most elevated
parts of the island, and nearly in its centre. It
is surrounded with walls, and defended with
bastions and other modern fortifications, which
render it exceedingly strong. Before the arri-
val of the Arabs, a much more extensive space
was enclosed within the walls^ but it was dimi-
nished by them in order to render its defence
more easy and practicable.

In earl}'^ times this city bore the same name
with the island, and was called Melita according
to a quotation from Ptolemy the Geographer,
lib. iv. c, 3. "Insulee in alto Mari Pelagiae has
sunt, Melite insulae, in qua civitas Melitae et
Ohersonesus et Junonis templum, et Hercnlis
templum.'* Upon the Authority of Cicero and
Diodorus Siculus we learn that the capital of
Malta contained many stately buildings, and
was very rich in the style of its prchitecture.
This evidence is substantiated by several remains
which are still seen scattered about the city,
and by the vestiges of ancient baths, and tem-
ples which have occasionally been found whilst
excavating, both within the walls and about the
suburbs.

During the domination of the Order of St.

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THE NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

ASTOR, LENOX AND
TILDEN FOUNDATIONS.

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. *" citta' vecchia. 255

John, this city was governed by a Hahem or
Ruler, chosen yearly by the Grandmaster, from
among the principal Maltese citizens. He was'
ordinarily called the Captain of the Rod, and
the jurisdiction of his court extended over the
civil and criminal cases of all the villages in the
island. The Magistracy of the city consisted
of three oflBcers, called Giuratij who were also
chosen annually by the sovereign. The civil
Court was formed of a tribunal of three Judges
one of whom judged all regular lawsuits, while
the remaining two, called Idioti, were only
permitted to decide upon certain causes of small
moment.

On the election of a new Grandmaster, the
ceremony of inauguration was performed in
this city. Early in the morning, the sovereign
left Valletta, accompanied by his court, and
escorted by a body guard with bands of music.
On his arrival near the city, he was saluted by
the musketry and by the principal Oiurato, who
presented him with a bunch of artificial flowers
with an appropriate speech, and afterward^
kissed his hand.The procession then proceeded
until joined the Bishop and clergy, who
came out to meet them. The Grandmaster was
afterwards place under a canopy bore on four
poles by the Giuraii, and continued walking
until he arrived at the gates of the city, where
a place was prepared for him to kneel upon,
before which a cross was erected. After the

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256 . PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

gates were shut, the first Giurato stepped for-
ward, bearing in his hand a silver dish, with
two keys laid upon it of the same ipetal, and
making a very low bow, addressed the sove-
reign in the following words. '^ Most Serene
Lord, the Divine Majesty has been pleased to
fevonr us and this city by placing over us so
great a prince as lord and master; and the high
honor is conferred upon me of presenting to
Your Serepe Highness the keys of this city,
in order that you may take possession thereof
Therefore, my colleagues and myself, in all hu-
niility, beg of Your Most fierene Highness to
d^ign to swear upon the habit of the Grand
Cross, that you will observe all the privileges,
and franchises, and usages of this city, and of
the Island of Malta, which were conceded to
them by the Most Serene Sovereigns of Arra-
gon and Sicily, and by the magnanimous
Grandmasters of this sacred Order, the prede-
cessors of Your Most Serene Highness, and
command that the same be observed. '' The
Grandmaster then laid his hand upon the cross
on his breast, and said : "I am bound to do so;
I swear. '^ After the keys were delivered into
his hand, the procession proceeded to the
Cathedral, where a solemn Te Deum was sung,
and after the celebration of Mass, the pageant
terminated.

The ceremony of conseci'ating the bishops
is also performed in the Cathedral of this city.

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citta' vecchia. •257

*Fhe Cathedral and the ancient Magisterial
Palace are the chief objects worthy of notice
within the walls of the city. The site of the
former building, according to tradition, was
formerly occupied by the residence of Publins,
who was governor of the Island, at the time of
St. Paul's shipwreck. The edifice is built in
Corinthian style, and contains an altar compos-
ed of several kinds of very rich marble. In the
upper part of the building there is a small
library and a few antiquities which have been
found from time to time in excavations made
about the city. The extensive view of the In-
land from the terrace of the Cathedral is exceed-
ingly fine, as it almost takes in the whole
country. This Church was greatly damaged
by the severe shock of earthquake experienced
in Malta on the 12th October 1856. The an-
cient Magisterial Palace is a commodious build-
ing, now turned into a Hospital for. military
invalids, under the name of Sanatoriwm.

Besides the cathedral there are two convents
in the city, one a monastery o^ Benedictine
nuns, annexed to which is a small but neat
■church.

The Bishop's Palace and Theological Semina-
ry are situated close by the cathedral, and are
worthy of notice. In the Saloon there is a
gallary of Portraits of the Bishops of this dio-
cese. Adjoining the latter building is the
supposed site of the ancient temple of Apollo.

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258 • PART IIJ. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

The suburba of the city, called BahbatOy con-
tain several large buildings, among which are
four monasteries, and two hospitals, one called
Delia Saura administered by the Bishop and
the other dedicated to Santo Spirito, The former
was founded by several legacies left by pious
individuals, and the latter appears to have been
a public establishment instituted at a very ear-
ly period. It is at present under the direction
of the local government.

ST. PAUL'S CAVE.

One of the most interesting objects in the
suburbs of CittA Vecchia is the Grotto of St.
Paul, situate underneath a Church dedicated to
the same saint. According to tradition, St«
Paul accompanied by Luke the Apostle, and
Trophimus, resided in this cave for the space
of three months, the time of his stay upon
the island. In order to give the tradition some
appearance of consistency a famous writer on
Malta assigns Paul's "modesty and humility"
as the reason of his choosing such a habitation;
for it cannot be supposed, argues the same
writer that the barbarous inhabitants, who ma-
nifested their kindness in so signal a manner to
the apostle, or that the most noble and cour-
teous Publius, who was so greatly indebted to
him, would have willingly suffered Paul to oc-
cupy so mean a dwelling. Nor can it be ima-
gined that the apostle was here kept prisoner

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ST. Paul's cave. 259

after the centurion had forbid the soldiers to
kill any of the criminals^ whom he had brought
with him, in order to save PauPs life.

The veneration of this cave very much in-
creased about the begining of the seventeenth
century, when a citizen of Cordova, named Pra
Giovanni, left his native country, and came to
Malta in order to tenant it. This anachorite
had a chapel erected over the grotto of St.
Paul, dedicated to St. Publius, which was af-
terwards very much enlarged by the Grand-
master Lascaris and enriched with donations of
a vast number of relics by the reigning Pon-
tiffs of Bome. Among these Giantar enumerates
a piece of the true cross on which Christ was
crucified, some remains of six of the apostles,
and of about fifty other saints.

The descent to the grotto is by a convenient
staircase, leading down from the chapel. The
grotto itself is of a concave and circular form,
not more than twelve yards in diameter, and
about eight feet high in the centre. A fine
marble statue of St, Paul, with a latin inscrip-
tion, occupies the middle of the cave, before
which several lights are kept continually burn-
ing. The material of which the grotto is for-
med is a soft magnesian lime- stone and reckon-
ed very efficacious as a febrifuge.

On the right of the entrance is the following
inscription, placed there by the Grandmaster
Emmanuel Piuto.

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260 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA,

D. O. M.

Hoc dextrum divi Pauli cryptae lattt&,

terram asportantibiLs numquam clav^uni^

et numquam deficiena, semper exds^im et

numquam decres&ens, ut in majorem
eresceret venerationem, eminentissimus
JGT. 0. M, M. et Prinoeps seven. Ft. D.
Hmman, Pinto nobiliori auxit ornaiu
MDCO:^LYIII.
The opinion is quite common among the na-:
tives^ that the stone of which this cave is com-
posed is continually regenerating^ and that al-
though a sufficient quantity has been taken away
to load several vessels^the dimensions of the cave
remain precisely the same. It would be useless
to adduce here any proofs to shew the glaring
absurdity and inconsistency of this opinion ;
such tales passed current during the ignorance
of the dark ages, but the common sense of the
present day will treat them as fables. A mira-
culous agency is assigned for the above pheno-
menon, as this at once removes every objection
which may be brought against it from any na-
tural cause.

A small Church, dedicated to St. Publius, is
built, on this grotto, and divine service is per-
formed in it by the collegians resident in a
contiguous convent supported out of a fund
bequeathed by the Order and now administered
by the Government. The priests of this Col-
legiate Church are at present the only clergy-
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St. PAULAS CAVE. 261

men in the island who wear the octagon cross
of the Knights of Malta^ besides the nuns of
St. Ursola of Valletta.

On the other side of St. PauPs Church there
is a square in the middle of which stands a
statae of the Apostle, who according to tradi-
tion^ preached to the inhabitants of these Is-
lands from that place. Underneath there are
many grayea, wherein Ke the remains of illus-
trious foreigners, who wished to be buried
within these precincts.

CATACOMBS.

The catacombs of St. Paul are situated about
five minutes walk from the Church, whither
the sacristan generally accompanies all travel-
lers with a supply of tapers, which he lights
before entering. The descent to the entrance
is about nine feet deep, by staircase three feet
wide, leading to a kind of gallery, dug under
ground, with a great number of others branch-
ing off from the principal, and also from the
secondaries. The sides of these passages con-
tain many niches to receive the body, cut in the
walk without any regular order: some are enti-
rely uncovered; while others are arranged with
more order, in two stories, and partly closed
with a layer of mortar raised up in a circular
form. These sepulchres are of diflferent sizes,
some proportionably formed for infants, which
generally occupy the sides, whilst in many of

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262 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA,

the larger ones^ it may be seen from a couple
of circular holes suflSciently large to receive the
head, that they were intended for two full-
grown persons.

There are several halls among these gallaries;
the roof of one is supported by a group of
rough fluted columns, and on the floor of the
same are two circular blocks, about four feet in
diameter, flat on the top, with a low edge
round the circumference. Some are of opinion
that the latter were used for washing the bodies
before burial.

The area of these subterraneous excavations
cannot now be determined, as many of the pas-
sages have been walled up, lest the curious vi-
sitant should lose himself in such a labyrinth,
which according to tradition has several times
happened. The stone of which these catacombs
are formed, is very soft and porous, and con-
sumes away very fast by the dampness which
prevails so low undergroumi.

Besides the above there are other similar ex-
cavations in the Citta Notabile, many of which
have been closed up. One of them, however,
called by the natives Abbatia, in the district of
Bir Riebu, about a quarter of a mile outside the
suburbs, still remains open. The descent to the
principal part of these catacombs is from a well
at a few paces distant from one of the subter-
raneous apartments. About fifteen feet below
the surface of the earth is a regular door way.

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CATACOMBS. 263

in which there has been a wooden door. After
passing the threshold^ there is a chamber about
19 feet long by 14 wide, excavated in the rock
which is rather soft, the roof being supported
by an arch and two pillars formed in excavating.
The chamber contains several sepulchres, and a
round block similiar to that which I have men-
tioned in the catacombs of St. Paul.

Upon the arch over the farthest sepulchre,
there is an inscription, of which the following
is all that can be deciphered.
NOT
N iTO

BIMITINPAC

PAOEMANIIST ACV

A T I O PoSITAE

INHoCAOCO RECOR

From the tenor of what can be gathered
from the above, it may be concluded, that it
was the work of Christians.

There is generally much extravagance in the
opinions entertcuned concerning the original
design of these, as well as other subten*aneous
sepulchral excavations. Many will have that
they were formed by the primitive christians,
who, during times of persecution, lived and
buried the bodies of their confessors and mar-
tyrs in them. The opinion prevails at Rome
and consequently a number of labourers are
kept constantly at work at the catacombs, and
as soon as they discover a repository with any

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264 PART in. ITINKRABY OF MALTA^

of the marks of ita being that of a saint, what
is found within is immediately taken care of.
The principal mark of its sanctity is a small
projection in the side of the gallery, a little
below the repository, whioh sometimes contains
pieces of phials, tinctured with various colours,
in which it is pretended that the blood of the
martyrs was preserved, in. order to distinguish
them from others. This imposition has no
foundation to support it, and I would just re-
mark, that the sam^ custom prevails unto the
present day in some places of Asia Minor.
While at Castro Rosso on the coast of Carama*
nia, I observed several small mnd^hillocks, pi-
led up above the graves, in which were fixed
small pieces of broken glass and earthenware of
various colours.

Against the above opinion, concerning the
desing of these catacombs, it may be justly ar-
gued, that at a time when Christians were
openly persecuted, it was not at all probable,
that such vast undertakings could have been
carried on without tiiB knowledge of the perse**
cutors, nor that any inimical government would
have permitted the work to be prosecuted in
opposition to their own proceedings. If, again
these were completed during season of peace
they must have been public,and being found in
Quch exposed situations, just without the city,
would never have been useful for a place of refuge.

It is my opinion, that the oatacowba of Mai-

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CATACOMBS.. 265

ta were origiually the work of the Phonicians,
or the Romans^ whose general manner it waa
to bury in caves ; nor was the oustorn of inter-
ring a3 we do now, in the open air, or in chur-
chefiiy ever mftde use of before Christianity in--
troduced it. The Komans probable derived
the custom of burying their dead in such sub-
terraneous cemeteries, from the Phoenicians ;
for, that the same was prevalent with them, is
very evident from the numerous catacombs to
be found in Rome. At length, however, they
derived from the Greeks the manner of burning
their dead bodies, and as this came gradually
into general use, the catacombs fell into total
neglect. In this state, we may suppose that
the Christians took pos^osaion of them in times
of persecution, where they concealed themselves
because it was not so likely that they would be
searched after in such abandoned places. When
the empire became christian, they a^in fell
into that state of disuse in which they are
found at present (1)«

ANCtENT TOMBS OF BINGEMMa/

About one hoar's walk to the west of Citta
Vecchia is a hill called ta Bingemma, in which
ar^ cut a number of sepulchral grots, of diffe-
rent sizes, and varying in their internal forma-

(1) See the interesting work on Catacombs and St. Paul's
Grotto, by th« Uam^d Key, GiovRam Gatt Said.

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266 PABT III. ITINERART OF MALTA.

tion. At present, many of them are choked
up with rubbish^and others serve as sheep-cotes
and stables for cattle. Some appear to have
been originally intended for one person only^
whilst others were designed for two or three
as may be seen from the circular inlets made to
receive the hands. A little above the tombs are^
cut small niches in the wall, apparently destined
as stands for lamps. The caves occupy one side
of the mountain, and are placed one above
another to three tiers or rows. Several large
caves contain no tombs whatever, and were
probably designed for a different purpose.

Some have supposed that this place formed
the cemetery of the Essenes, a sect among the
Jews, whose principal residence was the west
side of the Lake Asphaltites, and whose man-
ner of life was very retired and recluse. Leav-
ing aside the want of all historical evidence to
establish the fact, that any number of this sect
ever existed on the island, the Arabic name,
which the hill has retained, goes somewhat to
nullify this sup^osition^Besides there is another
place not far from Citta Vecchia, close by the
hill called JEmtarfa, which has preserved, until
the present day, the nameof Kboor-el-Yehood,
the Graves of the Jews : hence it is not likely
that this people possessed two burial-places so
close to each other,or that they ever existed here
in such numbers as to render this necessary.

As to the style of the above tombs, very

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BINGEMMA. 267

little can be ar^ed therefrom^ since different
nations of antiquity buried their dead in the
same manner. The small village of Siloah^ in
the valley of Jehosaphat^ consists of huts form-
ed from a number of Jewish sepulchres^ cut
in the rock at the foot of Mount Olivet^ and
which bear much resemblance to those of Bin-
gemma. The Sepulchres of the Kings and of
the Judges, about a mile to the north of Jeru-
salem, differ very little in their construction
from the catacombs of St. Paul in Citta Vec-
chia. In Persia and Egypt the same custom
prevailed, as may be seen from many excava-
tions of the same kind which exist unto the
present day.

I have already stated my opinion, in a former
part of this work, that these grots are vestiges
of the Phoenicians who held possession of the
island for eight centuries. This manner of en-
terring the dead was quite common to this peo-*
pie, as may be seen from the extensive ceme-
teries outside ^the city of Sidon, one of their
ancient principal towns. The formation of the
interior apartments of the tombs exactly cor-
respond in both places, and the site chosen for
the purpose, in the side of a mountain, and not
far distant from the city, is equally analo-
gous.

Another coincidence between the tombs of
the Phoenicians in Syria, and those of Bingem*
ma, ought not to be. overlooked,— a coincidenco

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268 PART ill. ItlNEBARY OP MALtAi

Whicli does not exist between the letter and tkd
Jewish burial-places in the Holy Land. I allu-
de to the larger caV'es which are found among
the tombs^ apparently destined for some other
purpose than that of intermeilt^ I imagine
that these were temples^ as at a vei*y early pe-
riod the custom prevailed for men to i^epair to
the summit of hills or else in caverns in rocksi
in orde^ to worship the gods, witom they ima-
gined held ^heitr residence in such places. This
mode of woi^ship existed among the Greeks, as
may be knoWn from the cavern which was de*
dicated to Aphi^odite in Pheois^ and the situa-
tion of Delpni and Parnassus, of which lattei*
Strabo writes: (lib. ix. p. 638) " The mountain
of Parnassus is a place of great reverence, hav-
ing many cavBrns, emd other detached spots
highly honoured and sanctified." Among the
Persians most of their temples wfere c&verns in
rocks, either formed by natui*e, or artificially

Eroduoed. Porphyry assuires us, that the Deity
ad always a rock oi» cavern for hia templej
and that these existed amongst tombs may be
argued from the testimony of Thevenot (Part
2nd p. 144, 146) who found several stone
coffins among the excavated temples of the
Persians. Prom these data, it mfty be argued
that the same custom amongst the Phoenicians,
and that the similarity of the tombs of Bingem-
ina, in every respect corresponding with those
which undoubtedly belonged to this ancient

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BINGEMMA, 269

people^ establishes them as the remains of their
work in the island of Malta,

The ruins of the ancient temples are worthy
of a visit. On the eastern side t>f the Island^
near the bay of Bir-Zehbugia, there exist the
vestige of the famous temple of Hercules :
they consist of large irregular and polygon
stones piled up one upon the other^ opposite
these ruins, near the sea side, there is a vesti-
bule composed of only three stones, the largest
of which is about 16 feet long.

About a mile distant to the south of Crendi
are the ruins of another Phoenician temple,
dedicated to the Brothers Kabiri constructed
of cyclopio stones. I?i the course of the exca-
vation made in 1839 statues, bones, and au
altar were found, and* are now preserved in the
museum of the Public Library.

About another mile distant from these ruins
there are the remains of another large temple,
dedicated to the worship of Esculapius. It is
called Mnaidra, that is, a temple of light, and
the other one just mentioned is styled Hagiar
Kim, Other marks of cyclopic constructions
exist in various parts of the Island, amongst
which those on Corradino Hill and a large cis-
tern on the road taX Medewiet, at a little dis-
tance from the temple of Hercules are remark-
able.

The village Zurrico contains the remains of a
Grrecian construction and a sepulchre, which

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270 PART Til. ITINERARY OP MALTA.

are very well preserved in the residence of the
Parish-priest. Similar vestiges are also to be
found on the road leading from this village to
the neighbouring one of Safi.

EMTAHLEB.

This place is situated not far distant from
the shore, about three miles to the west of
Citta Vecchia, and is much resorted to in the
summer season by parties of pleasure. The
little variety of hill and dale which this spot
presents, and the comparative fertility of the
vallies, watered by a copious spring, together
with a delightful prospect of the sea, form the
attractions which draw visitors occasionally to
spend a day here. There are only a few hou-
ses at this place, but a tolerable spacious cave
through which a spring of hmpid water runs,
serves as a very agreable retreat from the heat
of the sun, and as a commodious dining room
in which to spread out a rural repast.

BOSCHETTO.

The above name is given to a public garden
situated in a delightful valley, about two miles
to the south of Citta Yecchia'.This garden is well
worth visiting. The garden is watered by nu-
merous canals, which are supplied from the
principal acqueduct. Here is hkewise a com-
modious artificial grotto, with a fine fountain
at the end, and provided with a stone table and

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BOSCHETTO* 271

benches^ forming a pleasant and cool resting*
place for a pick-nick party during the heat of
snmmer.

On a hill which overlooks the garden, called
Monfce Verdala, is a large square edifice, built
by the Grandmaster of the same name, in the
year 1586. This building was used as a coun-
try-seat by his successors, until the Palace and
Gardens of St. Antonio were substituted for
that purpose by the Grandmaster De Paula.

It is at present in good repair, owing to the
work done by order of Governor Sir W. Reid,
who had a special liking to this place, he hav-
ing chosen the Boschetto Palace as a summer
residence. Some years back the cultivation of
silk worms was introduced in these Islands^
and this palace was appropriated for this pur-
pose, but notwithstanding all the efforts used
the plan failed ; this accounts for the extensive
plantation of mulberry trees in Boschetto and
other parts of the island.

On the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, (29th
June) the religious ceremonies of which are ce-
lebrated at the Old City, the Gardens of Bo-
schetto present a very joyous appearance.
Numerous companies of people from the
towns and the surrounding villages meet here,
and pass the day in various kinds of rural pass-
times and amusements.

Since 1853, through the eflforts of Sir Wil-
lic^m Eeid the promoter of agricultural industry.

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272 PART HI. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

yearly agrarian exhibitions, similar to those
held in other parts of Europe, take place in
these gardens on the above festival, that being
the principal day of meeting for all country
people. A similar exhibition takes place in
Gozo on the principal festival of that island the
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the
15th August — These exhibitions are under the
direction of a society entitled La Societd Eco-
nomico Agrai'ia ; — ^ and have* had a yearly in-
, creasing success.

THE INQUISITOE'S PAi;,ACE,

Stands a Kttle to the south of the Boschetto,
in a very delightful situation commanding a
view of one of the richest vales in Malta. This
building was formerly the country-seat of the
Inquisitor, but is now the property of the Bri-
this Government. It is occasionally* occupied
by some of the gentry of the town, but when
tenantless, travellers and persons visiting the
place for recreation or pleasure are permitted
to use it. The edifice is neat and commodious,
and had formerly a small chapel connected
with it, which is at present used as a common
room.

In the valley below is a large spring, called
Ain il Ehira, by which name the region around
the Palace is known. The fruit produced in
this place is very fine. A little to the east is
the district called Oirghenti, which is likewise

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inquisitor's palacb. 273

very fertile in frnit and other productions. This
is also watered bj several springs, one of which
issues from beneath an ancient building called
Ta Durrensi, A little below the ruin, the wa-
ter runs through a spacious cave, the area of
which has lately been filled up by the falling of
the roof. There are several other old buildings
in the neighbourhood, one called by the natives
Torre tal Fulia, Besides these vestiges of an-
tiquity, several hewn stones of uncommon size
are to l3e seen in an old wall above the group of
caves situated in the eastern avenue leading
to the Inqnisitor^s Palace, and supposed to
have been formerly the residence of a company
of gypsies.

FAUAKA.

This name is given to a spot on the southern
coast which overlook the sea, and was much
frequented by the inhabitants as a place of re-
creation and pleasure. The direct road to it
lies through Casal Zebbug and Casal Siggiewi;
but by crawling down a steep rock, it can be
reached from the Inquisitor's Palace, from
which it is about two miles dii^tant. The soil
hereabouts is remarkably fertile, and is sym-
metrically piled up in terraces on the side of the
ascent, which rises gradually from a precipice
overlooking the sea about two hundred feet
high.

Beneath the smell church of this place is a

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274 PART. III. ITINKRARY OF MALTA.

spring whicli runs through an artificial cave,
and thence flows into a large pond^frora whence
it is let out in different directions to water the
land. This spring is now joined with the Bou-
verie Aqueduct, which receives the water from
the springs of St. Giorgio and Annunziata, be-
sides the one just mentioned. It runs to an
extent of about seven miles and distributes its •
waters to the towns on the other side of the
Grand Harbour, after supplying the tanks of
several villages through which it runs. In this
cave is a stone table and benches for the ac-
commodation of visitors, who come here to
spend a day of recreation.

From Fouara the traveller may have a good
view of the small island of Filfla, about five
miles distant from the coast. This island is
only inhabited by rabbits, of which there are a
great number. It is occasionally visited by
fishing-boats, which go thither in order to ga-
ther the patella, and other shell-fish, which
abound on the shores of the rock.

THE MAKLUBA

The road to this place lies through Casal Lu-
ca Micabiba, and Crendi, from which last it is
about ten minutes' walk, and in all about seven
miles from Valletta. The name is given to an
oval hollow in the earth, sunk to the distance
of 180 feet, at the bottom of which is a very
pleasant garden consisting of various kinds of

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THE MAKLUBA. 275

fruit trees. The length of the aperture is 330
feet, and the width 200. The descent to the
area below is by a narrow and very rugged
staircase, cut into the circumference. The ap-
pearance of the inner sides is very craggy ; the
rocks around are broken and scattered in every
direction, and the whole face ojf the land around
this quarter bears evident signs that it once
underwent some violent concussion. The coun-
try in the vicinity begins to decline irregularly
for the distance of two or three miles before it
centres in this spot, which very abruptly sinks
into a deep hollow. It is diflBcult to determine
what may have been the natural causes pro-
ductive of these phenomenaj_but the most pro-
bable opinion is, that they are occasioned by
the destruction of a subterraneous cave in the
event of an earthquake or some other violent
convulsion of nature. The work Makluba sig-
nifies overturned, and the common tradition is,
that this hollow was the site of an ancient vil-
lage, the inhabitants of which, like those of
Sodom and Gomorrah, vexed the Almighty
until he took vengeance upon them by destroy-
ing their village, as He did the tents of Dathan
and Abirara, by causing the earth to open and
swallow it up. According to Cniitnr, some
bitumen wc.s former]/ foi-adhbio in t: . i .: '*ns
of a cistern, nuau) of which, however appears at
present. During winter, the water in the ca-
vity sometimes covers the trees, but it soon

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276 PAJJT IIL ITINSBART OF MALTA.

finds an outlet through the fissures of the rock.
Close by the cave is a small chapel dedicated to
St. Mathew.

The appearence of the rocks above the sea
coast, a little beyond Makluba, confirms ^ the
idea that it was produced by some violent na-
tural commotion. The stone is of a dark hue
and is very rough and craggy. There are also
large ravines formed in the rock, which open
in the direction of the sea, and run very narrow
towards the bottom.

GHAB HASSAN.

This cave is situated on the southern coast
of the Island, and is well worth visiting, on
account of its interesting locality, and the pe-
culiftr style cf its formation. The chief entrance
stands upon a perpendicular rock, about two
hundred feet above ^ the level of the sea, the
descent to which is rather dangerous. The in-
terior is divided into several natural recesses,
stretching out in various direction 8,and extend-
ing inwards for a considerable distance. A
narrow passage across the cave leads round to
another opening overlooking the sea, which
cannot be reached in any other manner. There
still exists a tradition among the natives, that
this place took its name from a Saracen who
resided in it for some time after the expulsion
of his countrymen from Malta. It is rather a
singular coincidence^ that the same name ia

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GHAR HASSAN. 277

ttientioned in the Cufio inscription found in the
island some time back, of which Ciantar gives
a copy in his Malta Illustraia plate zvii. A
very ingenious translation of the above, by
the Cavalier d^ Itlalinsky, Minister Extraordi-
nary and Plenipotentiary of the Emperor of
Russia, may be seen in the Mines de V Orient,
torn. i. p. 395.

An illustrious Italian writer, an exile in
Malta, wrote an excellent Canto in 1846, which
well deserves a perusal.

HERMITAGE OF ST. PAUL.

About a mile to the left of the road, after
leaving Casal Nasshar, there is an extensive ra-
vine called by the natives Uidd-el-Asel, in the
sides of which are several natural caves of to-
lerable dimensions. On a ledge of the rock,
rather high up in the ravine, is a small chapel
dedicated to St.Paul, built upon the spot where
he is said to have resided. Were it not for
the natural grandeur of the scene around ; this
tradition could communicate but little interest
to the locality in question ; as a proof of which
I shall relate the following anecdote. It is now
about two months since I visited the hermitage
in company with a friend of mine, and while
resting on the little square before the chapel, I
asked a countryman, who has brought us a few
grapes to purchase, wether he thought St. Paul
ever lived there. Me very qoaintly replied :

Digitized by VjOOQIC

278 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

" Sir, I do not know; there are so many places
on the island where people say that the apostle
resided, that I am inelined to think, that these
spots, were only honoured by a visit from him.
And then again, to imagine, that some follow-
ed him to mark these spots, during his short
residence in Malta, is rather too much for me
to believe. ^' This I regard as a specimen of na-
tive common sense.

Within the chapel of the Hermitage there is
a cistern, filled with the water wich trickles
down from the adjacent rock. Several of the
Grandmasters of the Order were accustomed
to have their tables supplied from this spring.

• After crossing over the extensive and fertile
plain of Nasshaf, the next place of interest in
this direction is

ST. PAUL'S BAY.

According to a tradition of the natives, this
is the place where the great Apostle of the
Gentiles was shipwrecked, while on his voyage
from Syria to Rome. The bay is about three
miles in length,and two in width at the entrance
gradually decreasing towards the extremity.
At this point the beach is sandy, and diflPera
from the general appearance of the coast round
the harbour, which is rugged and rocky. To
the North-west of the entrance is a small oblong
island, called Selmone or Selmuon, separated
from the maimliind by a narrow straight. A

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ST. Paul's bay. 279

tower and other fortifications in the vicinity
serve to defend the bay, and were raised for
that purpose by the Knights of Malta.

The only object of interest worth noticing in
this place is a small chapel, built upon the sup-
posed site where the barbarians lighted a fire
to warm the shipwrecked crew. It contains
several old drawings, illustrative of the events
connected with the landing of St. Paul in this
quarter.

As it has been disputed by several writers
whether Malta, or Meleda in the Adriatic sea
was the island where St. Paul was cast away,
both which were then called Melita, I do not
judge it out of place, to bring forward under
this head the arguments which have been ad-
duced in favour of Meledo, and at the same ti-
me to subjoin my own reasons for maintaining
the contrary. The scriptural narrative of the
event in Acts of the Apostles c. xxvii, the rea-
der may refer to.

The following question is extracted chiefly
from a Disertaidon' of tlie voyage of St. Paul,
written by Dr. Falconer of .Bath, containing
the most plausible objections to the common
received opinion on the subject, which I have
ever met with.

" That thiaieland was Meleda, near the lUy-
rian coast, not Malta, on the southern coast of
Sicily, may appear from the following consi-
deration.

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280 PART III. ITINBRARY OF MALTA.

"1. It lies confessedly in the Adrintie sea,
but Malta a considerable distance from it.

" 2. It lies nearer the month of the Adriatic
than any other island of that sea j and would,
of course, be more likely to recdve the wreck
of any vessel driven by tempests towards that
quarter. And it lies N. W. by N. of the south-
west promontory of Crete > and came nearly in
the direction of a storm from the south-east
quarter.

" 3. An obscure island called Melita, whose
inhabitants were " barbarous," was not appli-
cable to the celebrity of Malta at that time,
which Cicero represents as abounding in curio-
sities and riches, and possessing a remarkable
manufacture of the finest linen. Orat. in Ver-
rem, iv. § 18. 56. See more fully on thfe sub-
ject, the citation from Diodorus Siculus on p. 4.

" 4. The circumstance of the viper, or veno-
mous snake^ which fastened on St. Paul's hand
agrees with the damp and woody island of Me-
leda, affording shelter and proper nourishment
for such; but not with the dry and rocky island
of Malta in which there are no serpents now
and none in the time of PUny.

" 5. The disease with which the father of
Publius was affected, (verse 8) Dysentery com-
bined -with fever, (probably intermittent) might
well suit a country woody and damp, and pro-
bably, from want of draining, exposed to the
putrid effluvia of confined moisture > but waa

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ST. Paul's bay. 281

not likely to affect a dry, rocky, and remark-
ably healthy island like Malta.

Ver. 12. "After a stay of three months, they
departed, probably about the beginning of
March, in a ship of Alexandria, which had win-
tered also in the isle, and perhaps from similar
stress of weather, and came from thence to
Syracuse, where they spent three days, and
thence proceeded to Rhegium, on the straits of
Messina, and after a day's stay they reached
PuteoU in two days, which was the usual port
at which the corn ships from Egypt landed
their cargoes. Here, also Josephvs and his
shipwrecked companions landed, after they were
taken up by a Gyrenian vessel, the year after
St. Paul's voyage/' (See Hale's Analysis, Vol.
I. p. 468, 469.)

The argument contained in the first objec-
tion is based chiefly upon the word Adriu,
mentioned in the 27th verse; but Bochart,
Beza, Grothius and others, have shewn, that at
the time in question, was comprehended under
that name the whole of the sea between Greece,
Italy and Africa; so that it comprised the Io-
nian, Cretan, and Sicihan seas. See Hesychius,
^^lonium mare quod nunc Adria,^' And again
Procop. lib. I. InsulcB Oaulus (Gozo) et Melita
Adriatioum et Tuscum pelagum determinant.

The first clause of the second objection is en-
tirely hypothetical, and would only serve to
increase the testimony in favour of Meleda in

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282 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA.

the Adriatic, after it has been once proved to
be the landing-place of St. Paul by superior ar-
gument. The second clause, however, takes
too much for granted. It assures that the
Enroclydon is the south-east wind, and tkhen
draws an inference accordingly. This word,
which occurs only in the passage before us,
has exercised the learning and acumen of naany
generations of cities. Numerous conjectures have
raised concerning it, and several changes pro-
posed; but before conjecture be resorted to, we
ought to see what account can be given of the
common term. The nearest approach to it is
Fmroclydon, given in a citation of Baissom
from Const. Manass, Ghron. 101, which seems
to mean violenihf tempestuous. Several other
writers have shewn that the Euroolydon was
not a point wmd, but rather a kind of hurricane
or whirlwind, often shifting its quarter, and
tossing them backwards and forwards. This
exactly agrees with what the Italian sailors
•call a tuffonej and the Englisli a Levanter, which
blows from the N. B. and E. and is the most
tempestuous wind in the Mediterranean, espe-
cially during the autumnal equinox, the time
when Paul was at sea.

The above receives additional weight from
the loth verse, where it is said, " But not long
after there arose against if/' it is difficult to
determine to what noun tho particle it should
here be referred: the nearest is the word 'Crete'

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ST. Paul's bay. 283

in the proceeding verse ; but this would be
harsh and unnatural. My idea is, that the
word ship is understood ; and if so, Euroclydon
could not have been the south east wind for that
instead of beiug ' against them/ would have'
been in their favour.

The narrative proceeds : ^^ And when the
ship was caught, and could not bear up into
the wind, we let her drive. '' &c. And v. 27.
" When the fourte&nih night was come, as we
were driven up and down in Adria, about mid-
.7iight the shipmen deemed that they drew near
to some country." It appears from this account
that during fourteen days they were driven by
a tempestuous wind, without discovering any
land. If, however, they had been driven in a
direction to arrive at Meleda, they would have
passed close by the Morea, the Ionian islands,
and through the strait between Italy and
Greece ; and this, not in a direct line but with
some windings ; and it is higly improbable, nofc
say impossible, that they should not have dis-
covered any where the vicinity bf land, as well
as they discovered the vicinity of the island
where they landed, even *' about midnight. ''
Further, " although neither sun nor stars in
many days appeared, yet they certainly could
find out the quarter in which the sun rose and
set, aud from it could discover in which direc-
tion the wind drove them. Finding that it was
blowing from the south-east, they would of

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284 PART III. ITINERARY OP MALTA*

cq^irse have looked for some anchorage in
Greece, and the Ionian islands, where they
would have arrived in a few days. Besides, we
know that the south-east wind, in the Medi-
terranean never continues so long in winter,
and is seldom so tempestuous as the east wind
supposing then that it was the east wind, it
would in fourteen days have carried them
in a strait direction to Malta, without seeing
and even without expecting to see any land.

The third argument adduced by the objector
is not valid, inasmuch as it is a well known
fact that the pride of the Greeks, and after-
wards of the Romans, accounted men of all
other nations barbarians. The apostle Paul
makes use of the same eKpressions in I Cor. xiv.
11 : If i know not the meaning of the voice, I
shall be unto him that speaketh a barbarian,
and he that speaketh shall be a barbarian,
unto me.^' Herodotus also, lib. ii. 158 says :
The Egyptians call all those barbarians, who
have not the same language with themselves.^^
And again Ovid, *' Barbarus hie ego sum, quia
not intelligor uUi. '' In triet. ver. 10. These
remarks, however, will not apply to Meleda,
which was situated in a well known part and
most probably inhabited by people who spoke
the Greek language.

The fourth argument respects the viper which
fastened on St. Paul's hand, the existence of
which the objector judges to agree more with

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ST. Paul's bay. 285

the damp and woody soil of Meleda, than with
the dry soil of Malta. All this I am ready to
allow, as also the testimony of Pliny, that there
were no venemove serpents on this island in his
time; but that there never were nor are any ser-
pents in Malta is false. I myself have often seen
snakes six feet long and I know positively,
that the same animals, of a smaller dimension,
are very common in the country. They are
very harmless, but show some tokens af rage
when irritated. It is my opinion, that one of
tiiese creatures is meant in the text, and that
the very uncommon manner in which it laid
hold at the hand of the apostle, (a fact the in<
habitants had never before witnessed) was the
oause of their evil surmisings, and of their an-
ticipations of the consequence. How far there
may have been a divine interposition in causing
the animal to act as it did, I cannot say; very
likely it was the novel effect of the fire.

The fifth objection contains but little plau-
sibility ; for it is not necessary that a disease
should be endemic in order to the existence of
one case, which, however, we are almost oblig-
ed to infer from the argument of tl^e objector.
But, moreover, it is a well known fact, and the
very disease with which Publius was afflicted is
by no means uncommon in this island during
autumn.

The last paragraph is not brought forward
as an argument, and it is well that it is uot«Tl^

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286 PART III. ITINERARY OF MALTA,

narrative of Sb. Luke says, that they first went
to Syracuse, then to Rhegium, now Heggio on
tbe southern point of Calabria, and next to
Puteoli near the present Naples. This is the
natural course in going from Malta to Rome ;
but coming from the Adriatic sea it is not at
all probable, that they should first have gone
down to Syracuse, and then have turned back
again to Reggio.

Another incidental proof against the opinion
I am endeavouring to confute is the fact, that
at the island where the apostle was shipwrecked
there was another vessel, which had put in on
her way to Rome, in order there to winter.
Now it is certain more probable, that the Me-
Hta here spoken of is our Malta, and not the
Meleda in the Archipelago, the former being
quite in the way, while the latter lies several
miles out of the regula-r course to that city.

The description given of the shore by the
sacred historian gives little satisfaction to the
enquirer ; yet it proves nothing against its
being Malta. "And when it was day, they
knew not the land but they discovered a cer-
tain creek with a shore,^' is all that St. Luke
writes.

But the 41st verse is not so easy to be un-
derstood : the worri in the orierinal; (biOxXai'Jdoq)
rendered ' two seas/ ib as sometimes applied to
an isthmus which divides two seas, just as the
Latin bimaris ; sometimes to long peninsulas

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ST. Paul's bay. 287

jutting out into the sea^ and also to spits of
sand under water. The latter seems to be the
most probable idea, for we are told that the
forepart of the vessel struck fast and remained
immoveable, but the hinder part was broken
with the violence of the waves.This took place in
consequence of their intension to thrust in the
ship, when they unfortunately lighted upon a
sand bank, where the sea is generally rough
and surfy. Some cities understand the passage
as conveying the idea of a surf or eddy, which
beat upon the store of the vessels, while the
head remained fast aground. And others again
have imagined, that the two sea€ refer to the
channels, which run on each side the small is-
land of Salamone, and which meet in the har-
bour of St, Paul,

To the above proofs in favour of Malta being
the island where the Great Apostle was cast
away, we may mention the tradition which has
existed amongst the natives from time imme-
morial ; an item of considerable weight when
combined with other concurrent testimony.

St. Paul's Bay is now a watering place,
where many of the inhabitants pass the summer
months.

MELLEHA and CALYPSO'S GROTTO.

About an hour's ride from St. Paul's bay
brings the traveller to the Church of Melleha,
a place very^much frequented by the devout

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288 MELLfiHA.

among the Maltese^ andby no means displeas-
ing as to its situation. It is partly cut out of
the solid rock, and contains a great number of
presents to the Vrigin, whom the building
is dedicated, such as silver and waxen limbs»
pieces of old cable, iron chains and' fetters,
pictures representing the deliverance of the
distressed, &c. Over the small altar is a draw-
ing of St. Mary, underneath which it is pretend-
ed that there is an ori^nal portrait of tbe same
executed by St. Luke the Physician. Several
authors take it for granted, that this apostle
who accompanied Paul in some of his travej^,
came with him also to Malta: the grounds of
such an opinion I have never had the good
fortune to see establihed by historical evi-
dence.

Bound a spacious square in front of the
church is a row of rooms, prepared for the re-
ception of devout visitors, and occasionally serve
also for the accomodation of the parties of
pleasure which often resort to this place; Just
below the church is a small cave, called the
GfoU<i della Madonna, in which there is a spring
of water, surmounted by a large stone statue of
the Virgin. It is firmly believed by many of
the. people, that this image has been seven^l
times taken up and offered a more respectable
place of the church, but that during the night,
she hai^ again chosen to return down forty stairs
to her own old .position. laiihisLcave there are

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MELLEHA. 289

a few other headless statues,which may possibly
have been heathen gods and goddesses. Ac-
cording to the testimony of the sacristan^ they
owe their decapitation to the infidel rage of
the French, during their short occupation of
the island.

On the opposite of the dale, which lies
between the Church of Melleha and a range of
high rugged rocks,are many caves,some formed
aiaturally, and other cut by art. On examining a
few of these, 1 found evident signs that they
had once been inhabited : the floors of several
are well smoothed, small niches for lamps are
seen in the walls, and apparent divisions in the
larger excavations for the constructions of
chambers. A little previous to my last visit to
this spot, a countryman discovered a small
lachrymatory and lamp, while digging in one
of these grottos. Both are made of red clay,
resembling those in the Public Library, and
apparently of Phoenician origin, if I may judge
from their shape. The lachrymatory is in
the possession of the priest of Melleha, the
lamp I obtained myself from the countryman.

Melleha, recently made a Parish, has now
become a popolous village, having hotels and
restaurants with the requisite accommodations
for visitors.

About half a mile to the west of the church
of Melleha is the supposed Grotto of Calypso,
the spot so enchantingly sung by Homer, and

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290 PART III. ITmEBARY OF MALTA.

. dilated upon by Penelon in his ^ Aventures de
Telemaque/ It is situated at the foot of a hill
in which are many other grots of different di-
mensions, the greater part of which are still
occupied by the peasants of the neighbourhood.
A spring of clear water runs through the cave
of the goddess, and from thence flows forth in-
to a large basip, from which it is let out to
fertilize the delightful garden just below. Of
this spot Homer writes in his Fifth Book i

Large was the grot in which the nymph he found,
(The fair hair'd nymph with eveiy beauty crowned)
She sat and sung ; the rocks resoimd her lays ;
The cave was brighten'd with a rising blaze ;
Cedar and frankincense, an odoi'ous pile,
Flam'd on the hearth, and wide perfum'd the isle ;
While she with work and song the time divides.
And through the loom the golden shuttle guides.
Without the grot, a various silvan scene
A]>pear'd around, and groves of living green :
Poplars and alders ever quivering played.
And nodding cypress form'd a fragi'ant shade ;
On whose high branches, waving with the storm.
The birds of broadest wing their mansion form.
The cough, the sea-mew, the loquacious cix)w.
And scream alofb, and skim the deeps below.
Depending vines the shelving cavern screen,
With purple clusters blushing through the green.
Four limpid fountains from the clefts distil,
And every fountain pours a sev'ral rill,

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MELLEHA. 291

In mazy winding wandering down the hill :

"Where bloomy meads with vivid greens were ci'owned

And glowing violets threit odours ix)und.

A scene, where, if a god should cast his sight,

A god might gaze, and wonder with delight I

Embellished and decorated by the masterly
pen of the poet, a miserable cave is converted
into a fit residence for a fabulous goddess.
However, any admirer of natural scenery will
be delighted with the prospect which stretches
before the sight from the summit of this hill.
The green spot beneath, washed at its base
by the Bay of Melleha, the islands of Gozo
and Comino in the distance, and the rugged
heights around, form a coup d' oeil, not every
where to be enjoyed in the island of Malta.

About one hour's ride, over a rather rough
road, brings you to the place called

MARFA,

This is the termination, of the island on the
north-west, and from this spot it is usual for
those to embark, who wish to visit Gozo, and
who prefer a shorter sea voyage than going
in a boat direct from Malta. At Marfa there
is a small country house, which has been oc-
casionally occupied by the Governors of the
island.

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292 PART III. ITINERARY OF COMINO.

Midway in the channel which separates Mal^
ta from Gozo^ called the Straits of Fregi, is the
small

ISLAND OF COMINO

formerly called Hepliaestia or Phaestia, as ap^
pears from the writings of several ancient
authors, who mention it ni^der these names.
The island is about five miles in circumference,
and is partiallv cultivated. It is defended by Sk
fort; built in the year 1618 under the Grand-
master Wignacourt, which, with the exception
of a commodious house belonging to {govern-
ment, is the only building on the island. There
are also a few huts, in which the peasants re-
side who labour on the soil.

According the census taken in 1861— the in-
habitants of this island are 26.

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r^^itT ^^OTJK/Tia!.

-GENERAL DESCRIPTION

OP THE

ISLAND OP G020.

Ancient name of — History of — Geographical description
of— Fertility and productions — Population — Language —
Custom.

ftlHE Island of Gozo was called Guutos by the
X Greek, and Gaulum by the Romans. Diodo-
i^Qs Siculus writes concerning it, in his sixth
book, " Prope Melitam altera insula est, qmie
Gaulos vocattir in alto petago, et ipsa portiium-
que commoditate praestans Phoenicium colonia,"
Pliny also makes mention of it, in his lib. ii. c.
8. " In Siculofreto insulae in Afncam versae,
Gaulos, Melita, Cosyra. '^ And in lib. v. c. 7.
" Gaulos 8f Galata, cujus te%ra scorpionem, di-
rum animal Africae necat. " The Arabs cor-
rupted the word Gaulos into Ghaudesh, under
which name the island is mentioned in their
writings, and which it has preserved amongst
the inhabitants unto the present day.

According to several ancient Latin inscrip-
tions, found at various times in this island, it
appears^ that it enjoyed the privileges of a mu-

/ V Digitized by VjOOQIC

294 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

nicipality, under the government of the Bo-
mans. Many of these inscriptions are preserv-
ed in Ciantar's Malta Illustrata, Vol. I. Not.
vi. lib. 2. As might be expected, from its near
relation to Malta, this island has generally
shared the fate of the former, and has always
been subject to the same masters^ In 1551,
after an unsuccessful attempt had been made
by the Turks on the island of Malta, Siman
Pasha, the General of the Ottoman army, made
a descent upon Gozo, which he cruelly ravaged.
Gelatian de Sessa, the Governor, made some
feeble attempts to defend the castle, but he
soon abandoned his post, and left the natives
to fence the breach, which the enemy's cannon
had effected. The inhabitants, seeing the dast-
ardly conduct of their commander, would have
deserted their post, had not an English knight
taken the command, and with his own hand
* fired off the cannon which defended the breach.
A ball from the Turkish batteries speedily tei*-
minated the career of this good soldier, and no
one being found to supply his place, the Go-
vernor dispatched a messenger to the Turkish
Genera] with an offer of capitulation ; but as he
demanded the most honourable conditions, Si-
nam Pasha contemptuously rejected it, and de-
manded that the place should be immediately
surrendered at discretion. As soon as the
Turks had taken possession of the castle, they
immediately commenced plundering the iaha-

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 295

bitants, ajid committed every species of cruelty
among the people. De Sessa himself was ta-
ken captive, together with six thousand other
Christians, who where hurried into slavery on
this occasion. Two other unsuccessful attacks
were made on the island in the years 1613 and
1709.

In the time of the Order of St. John, the
government of Gozo was committed to one
knight and four Oiurati^ or Magistrates, elect-
ed by the Grandmaster. At present, it is in-
cluded within the jurisdiction of the Governor
of Malta, and the administration of its local af-
fairs, as well civil as judicial, is carried on by
persons appointed by him.

The island is situated five miles to the north
west of Malta; its cicumference is reckoned at
twenty -four miles, its length twelve, and its
greatets widihsix and a half. On the whole
southern coast, and towards the west, it is
guarded by inaccessible cliffs, sometimes rising
to the height of 380 feet above the level of the
sea. In this division are two bays of Shlendi
and Dueirdy where a landing might easily be
effected; but these are secured by forts built
for that purpose. The remaining part of the
coast is low, though in some paces very rug-
ged, and contains several bays or inlets, which
are in general protected in the same manner as
the former. Before the construction of these
forts, the continual attacks of the Barbary

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296 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

corsairs rendered it unsafe for the inhabitants
to remain in the open con try after sunset, and
on this account they were accustomed to retire
into the castle to spend the night. Under the
secure and happy rule of Great Britain these
marauding expeditions are only known and
heard of in the tales of some old Gozitan, who
perhaps may himself have witnessed their
dreadful consequences, but who has long since
been accustomed to sit and to sleep under the
shade of his own vine and of his own fig-
tree, without having any thing to make him
afraid.

The face of the country of Gozo exhibits a
greater variety of rural scenery than Malta^
and is much more fertile. The surface of the
island is studded with hills, which are in gene-
ral covered to their very summit with neat
terrace work, and occasionally lined at their
base with a delightful grove of trees. Some of
these hills are of a conical shape, and have beent
supposed by some to be extinct volcanos. This
supposition, however I believe to be without
any foundation, as none of those which I exa«
mined bored any signs of combustion, though I
ascended the summits of the greater part of
them. The names of the principal hills are as
follows : ta Cagliat; id^Dabrani, ta Giordan^ el
Harrash, ta Ammar, id-Digebi, and Kolla Safra.

The soil of the country is rich and remark-
ably well cultivated ; the wheat, barley, and

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 297

cotton which it produces, are of an excellent
quality : of the former it yields a sufficiency for
its own consumption, and the two latter arti-
cles form its chief export. Much of the cotton
however, is manufactured in the island.

Although the cultivation of the above staple
commodities engages the particular attention
of the inhabitantSi still they pay some regard
to the rearing of fruits, legumes and vegetables
which ike island produces in plenty, and with
which it supplies Malta to a considerable extent.
The grapes of Gozo are reckoned of a superior
quality, and the apples though somewhat infe-
rior, grow very exuberantly in the environs of
Casal Nadur.

The good pasturage for cattle, which the
island affords, renders it abundant in sheep,
and goats, and other animals. The milk of the
sheep is made into a kind of creamcheese,
which is very palatable, and forms quite an ar-
ticle of trade. The honey of this place is also
held in much esteem for its richness. The
market of Malta is furnished with a great pro-
portion of its poultry from this island, where
they thrive remarkably well. The mules and
asses of Gozo are of an extraordinary size, and
even surpass those of Malta in their strength
and beauty.

The inhabitants of Gozo are, in general, very
laborious ; this may partly account for their
robust constitution^ which distinguishes them

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298 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

in no uncommon measure from their neighbours
the Maltese, The men are well built, of an or-
dinary stature, with full features, and flowing
hair. In their costume, the people of the two
islands agree, except that the Gozzitans do not
appear to have that predilection for the long
cap, which is so much worn by the lower class
of the Maltese ; a small straw hat generally
supplies its place.

The dialect spoken at Gozo is much purer
than that used at Malta, and has a greater
affinity to the literal Arabic. It is not only in
a great measure free from the foreing admix-
tures which destroy the beauty and elegance of
the Maltese language, but the Arabic guttural
sounds have all retained with this people their
original utturance, the distinction of which is
entirely lost in Malta. It is to be regretted,
that when so many facilities exist naturally in
these two islands, but in Gozo more particu-
larly, for the easy spread of the Arabic langua-
ge, and for making it in a short period the es-
tablished language of the people, in which
they might at once begin their studies, that
little or nothing has been done to profit by this
circumstance. To think of introducing the
Italian or the French into this island, and of
making it the language of the people through
the medium of schools, is a chimera, which has
no foundation in the history of past ages.

Sonje parts the of ancient ceremony of bury^

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION* 29&

ing the dead are still preserved in the island of
Gozo ; though not in universal use among the
people. On the death of an individual, when
the old custom is observed, his neatest rela-
tives and friends,both male and female, repair to
the house of the deceased, and, upon entering,
begin singing in a low and dismal voice some
moral sentence. Gradually they grow more
affected and commence weeping and howling
in the most doleful manner. The women smite
their breasts, tear their hair^ and endeavour to
exhibit all the signs of despair. These mour-
ners are called neivwieha ; but they are not
hired for the purpose, as is the case with tho
Arabs, among who the same custom univer-
sally prevails. After this scene has been kept
up for some time, preparations are made for
conveying the body to church. The corpse is
borne before, followed by the male mourners,
each habited in a Greek capot, with the hood
drawn close over the head, and uttering occa-
sionally, in a low and sorrowful tone, such ex-
pressions as these ; Alas, my brother; Whero
are you now, sister ! He was lovely ! but he is
gone ! Will you not think of us hereafter ? Re-s
member us to those who have gone before !
How virtuous she was ; but, alas ! she has a^
bandoned us ! Why, ho why ! did you leave aU
those who loved you I

The male survivors of a deceased relative
generally suffer their hs^ir to grow for several

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300 PART IV, ITINERARY OF C^OEO.

rnonths after bis death without cutting ; this
custom is still occasionally observed by some
of the Maltese peasantry. In former timesj
the burial of the dead was attended w^ith many
other ceremonies^ such as destroying a few of
the ornaments which were found in the house,
overturning the furniture, breaking off vine-
branches and strewing them through the rooms
and daubing the doors and walls with soot.
These, and other extravagances, however, have
long since become obsolete.

* r.r i| - 1 >. I, I- |i il

The chief town of the island of Gozo is cal-
led Rcibat or Itabbaio, besides which there
iire eight casals or villages scattered over the
country.

The following is a list of the population in
the town and the casals, according to the cea-
«us taken in 186 L

Eabato 4028 Casal Caccia 2010

Ghain Sielem 106 „ Zebbug 667

Kercem 1039 >, Garbo U47

Nadur and) oAi/. „ Sannat 940

Kala S "^^^^ „ Xeuchia 1345

The dwellings of the island, in general, but
especially those of ths villages, will- bear no
comparison with the well-built houses of Malta.
In this respect the Gozitans are behind their
neighbours, the Maltese, after every allowance
is made for the greater difficulty they have in
procuring the materials. The stone of Qoao is

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 301

much softer than that of Malta^ and is not so
abundant,

In every village of the island there is a com^
niodious church, besides five others in the city
of Babbato^

BAY OF MIGIARRO.

This bay is situated on the south-east extre-
mity of the island, and is the principal harfcpur
for the boats which play between it and Malta.
The bay is shallow, only affording anchorage to
small craft, and is quite exposed towards the
north-east. In X605, a small fort was built
here by the Grandmaster Qarzes, in order to
command the bay and to act in conjunction
with the fort erected on the island of Comino,
for the defence of the str$^it. ^ The fortress is a^
present abandoned, as its use was subsequently
superseded by another, called

FORT CHAMBRAY.

The building of this fortress was commenced
in the year 1749 by the Bailiff Jacobo Fran-
cesco de Chambray, a Norman Knight, who
expended a large portion of his property in
its erection ; but, dying before the work was
brought to a termination, be bequeathed the
fifth part of his estate for carrying through
the design. This not being sufficient^ the coun-
cil of the Order made up the deficiency, and

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302 PART IV. ITINERARY OF QOZO.

called the fort after the name of ifcs original
founder Fort Chambray.

The fort is situated about ten minutes^ walk
from the shore, on a high eminence called
Ras-et'TaffaL The walls are about a mile in
extent, and are defended on the west by a good
ditch, and strengthened by several outworks.
Towards the south it is fortified by the native
rock, which rises up almost perpendicularly
from the sea to the height of one hundred and
fifty feet Within the fort is a commodious
barrack, capable of quartering a suflBcient force
for its defence.

The ascent of the hill of Migiarro towards
this fort, as also the land about the beach, is
well cultivated.

TOWN OF RABBATO, '

The distance from Chambray to Rabbato is
three miles and half, over a good road, leading
through a fine and level part of the country, in
the highest state of cultivation. The citadel
stands upon an eminence, nearly in the centre
of the island, and is a little more than half a
mile in circumference. It is ascended by a steep
stair-case, and is surrounded by a ditch, where
the walls are not raised upon the perpendicular
rock on which the castle is built. These for-
tifications are at present in very ruinous con-
dition, and it is not probable that they will
ever be restored, as the citadel itself is com-

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TOWN OP RABRATO. 303

manded by several hills in the vicinity, which
render its situation by no means secure. Witli
the exception of the Court-house, very little
to be seen within the walls but miserable dwel-
ling houses. .The principal building is the
church, dedicated to the Assumption of the Vir-
gin, which is also in a delapidated condition,
although some vestiges are still left of its for-
mer grandeur.

From the terrace of this church there is a
very extensive and delightful view of the whole
country.

This Church is now the Cathedral of the
Diocese of Gozo, separated from that of Malta
by Pope Pius IX in the year 1866.

In the suburbs of the citadel is the parish-
church, dedicated to St. George, and two con-
vents, one of friars belonging to the Minori
Conventiiali of St. Francis, and the other of
Augustinian Eremitani. Close by the latter is
an extensive cemetery, in one angle of which is
the following inscription :

Oalli hanc Gaulos Insulam imperantes

anno Dom, OIGGCLXX, ne sacra ossa

proesulmn, ac virorum illustriumj

qui cum S, Ludovico

Francorum Rege profecti,

ac ab Africa post helium sacrum,

hune translata, ohlivinni darent ;

hoc sacrum ccemettrium ^rexere,

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304 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

in quo singulis lapides sepvlcrales

anaglyphis distincios

propriis insigniis deeoratus posuere,

III ac Rev. D. Paulus Alpheran de Bussan,

Melitae Episcopus,

qui hunc 'dormitionis locum visUavit

anno MDGGLV. M. Sept die XVL

ut reliquae ex nia^iRimo numero

lapides vetustiores,

insignioreq. inventae omnibus pateant.

et eonserventur,

heic aere proprio apponi jussit,

I pi esume that the sepulchral stones referred
to in the above are those which stand in the
wall clpse by the inscription. They aretwenty-
eight ill number, each bearing some symbolical
figure roughly cut on its surface in alto-rilievo.
The principal figures are crosses differently
shaped, and other ecclesiastical trophies, such
as chalices, crosiers, &c. The assertion con-
tained in the inscription, concerning the ori-
ginal design of these stones, does not appear to
rest upon any substantial evidence. Ciantar
himself is very dubious on the subject. It is
the current tradition among the inhabitants
that they were put up in remembrance of so
many African bishops, who died here on their
way to one of the general council. This is cer-
tainly extravagant enough.

Besides the above mentioned convents^ there

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TOWN OF RABBATO. 305

is another of Capuchin friars, occupying a
pleasant site a little to the northeast of the su-
burbs of Rabbato.

At a short distance from the cemetery of
the Augustinian convent is the garden called
DelV Annunciata, situated in a picturesque and
fertile valley, well watered by a copious spring.
This garden is resorted to by the natives as a
place of amusement especially on the feast of
the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary.

Adjoining the Franciscan Convent is the-
public Male Hospital, and a short distance
from the former is a similaj establishment for
females.

Since the separation of the Diocese of Malta
from that of Gozo, a Seminary has been esta-
blished at Rabbato (so that the Gozitans may
enjoy the blessings of a sound education) under
the auspices and care of the Jesuit Fathers.
Many of the gentry of Malta send their child-
ren there, for the climate is superior to that of
Malta as being more to N. W. and the land
lying higher, is blessed with the sea breeze
from all quarters.

In coming to a place like Gozo the traveller
will be anxious to know where he is to find a
lodging. In this respect, he will not anticipate
the accomodation of a first-rate hotel; however,
in case of a family wishing to spend a short
time here, they can hire a well furnished and
commodious apartment in any one of the two

f Digitized by VjOOQIC

306 l>ARt IV. itll^EitARY 0^ GOZO.

hotels which at present exist, one is called
" Gozo Oalipso Hotel '^ situated at Rabbato, 6
Piazza Reale; the other "Gozo Imperial Hotel'^
26 Rabbato, Piazza Reale — both supply good
dinners, lunch and every other refreshuient.

BAY OF SatENDl.

Though there is nothing particular to be
noticed at this place, I mention it as affording
an agreeable* walk or ride, above three miles
'distant from Rabbato. The road is very pic-
turesque, lying through several gardens well
watered by a copioRS spring, which flows in a
small stream through a ravine extending inland
about one mile from the breach. The nume-
rous caves in the perpendicular cliffs which en-
close the bay, are well worth visiting,

BAY OF MaSSA-EL-FORN*

The above may form another agreable trip
to such as intend to spend more than a day or
two at Gozo. The road is remarkably good,
and Hes through a level and highly cultivated
part of the island. During the summer this
place is resorted to by several of the more
respectable part of the inhabitants, who have
small country-seats built on the shore of the
bay. The safe anchorage which the harbour
affords, and the convenience of good supply of
water, had once almost determined the council
of the Order to remove the city to this spot.

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MARSA-E^-FORN. ' 367

It not being a central situation was the only
cause why the design was not carried into
execution.

HAGRA TAL GENERAL or GENERAL'S BOOK.

At the entrance of the small bay of Duejra,
situate at the western extremity of the island,
is an isolated rock known by the above name,
on which grows the famous Fungus Melitensis.
This rock is about one hundred and fifty feet
distant from the shore, and is reached by
means of a box, with a pully fixed on to each
angle, and made to run on two stout cables, well
secured on both sides. After the box is loosed
from its position, one of the men in charge
takes with him a rope which he ties on to one
lend of the box, and, entering into it, impels it
on by laying hold of the ropes and jerking it
forward, until, he reaches the rock. He then
seizes the small rope, which he had previously
fixed to the side of the box,and suffers his com-
panion to drag it over towards him by means
of another, which he holds in his hand for that
purpose. As soon as the passengei* enters, the
man on this side slackens his rope, and the
box glides easily down the cables till about
midway, where they bend ; his companion on
the opposite side then pulls it by main force,
until it is sufficiently close to allow of landing
without danger. Very lately the cables gave
way, and have not yet been replaced.

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308 PART IV. ITINERABY OF GOZO.

The fruit for wjiich this rock is particularly
famous, called by Lynnaaus Cynomorium coc-
cineuni, is not known to grow in any other
part of the country. It springs up from the
crevices of the rock, and, if suffered to come to
maturity, generally reaches the height of five
inches. The plant blossoms in April and May,
and when fresh, is of a dark red colour and ra-
ther soft ; but when dried, it is nearly black
and becomes hard and solid. Formerly this
plant was very much used by many physicians
of Europe, and was considered very efficacious
in cases of dysentery, hemorrhages, and several
cutaneous diseases ; but it has long since lost
its high repute, and is at present very little
cajled for.

GROTTO OF CALYPSO.

I have already described a spot which bears
the same name with the above, but as so fa-
mous a wpter as Calimachus has maintained
that Gozo is the island of the loving goddess,
I have thought it not amiss to point out the
spot which is here supposed to have been her
residence. It is situated in a rock overhanging
the Bay of Ramla, and in my opinion would be
a very safe retreat for a company of foxes. The
entrance is extremely narrow, and in no one
part of the cave was I al)le to stand upright.
The only object of interest worth mentioning
about this plaqp is the number of. stalactites.

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GROTTO OF CALYPSO. 309

Xvhich hang down from the interior of the
ceiling. A great part of the cave has lately
fallen in.

CASAL NADUE.

In the numerous gardens which surround
this village grow most of the apples with which
both islands are supplied. A pleasant grove of
trees, called Boschtdto, at no great distance, and
another called Gnien-esh-Shibla, at the foot of
the hill on which the village stands, are worth
visiting.

TORRI TAL GiaAKTI oe GIANTS' TOWER.

This is one of the most interesting remains
on the island, and merits a particular descrip-
tion, being the remains of the Temple of As-
tarto or Phoenician Venus, which are v6ry well
preserved. It is situated on an eminence, not
far from Casal Shaara, and consists of a large
enclosure, formed by a wall of enormous mas-
ses of rock, piled up one upon another^ without
any mortar or cement. The enclosure is of a
circular form, and measures twenty-five paces
in diameter. It is entered by two massy
doorways, constructed of four stones, eighteen
feet high and five wide. These lead into sepa-
rate ranges of rooms, each range laid out in the
same order, and only differing in extent. At
the extremity of the building, opposite the en-
trance, is a semicircular area, the floor of which

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310 PART IV. ITINERARY OP GOZO.

rises higher than that of any other part, and is
paved at the threshold with large hewn stones,
on the surface of which some rude attempts
have been made at ornamenting. Besides this,
there are two oblong chambers in each range,
which cross the area at right angles^and which
are separated by a thick wall, except along the
nave, which is left open and forms a second en-
trance into the inner room. The area of the
apartments being somewhat crowded with huge
blocks which have fallen from the walls, it is
difficult to descriBe accurately the several
objects of interest which lie partly buried
beneath them. To the left of the first apart-
ment are the remains of an oven, the hearth of
which is formed of red clay. The floor of the
side opposite is partly laid with large hewn
stones, which exhibit some marks of rough chi-
selling, apparently intended as a kind of deco-
ration. In this part I observed a conic stone,
about two feet and a half high, and one foot in
diameter, which I have no doubt was one of
the deities of the temple. To the right of the
second apartment is a shallow circular concavi-
ty, inbedded in the floor, with a raised rim,
resembling tho^e which are met with in the
Catacombs of Citta Vecchia. Close by this is a
large stone fixed in the wall, with a square
aperture cut in its centre, seemingly designed
as the front of an oven. Near the aperture is
a small round ledge^ which appears to have

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giant's tower, 311

been intended for the stand of a lamp. On
the opposite site of this chamber are several
shelves, composed of large slabs, rudely piled
up one upon another, without any regard to
symmetry or taste.

In the doorways there are several large holes
corresponding on both sides, aud most proba-
bly destined for bolts in order to secure the en-
trance. In the same are cut sevpral loops,whicb
I imagine to have been intended as fastenings
for the ropes, with which the victims were
bound when brought here for sacrifices.

This ruin is undoubtedly of very great anti^
quity, and it is evident from the mode of its
erections, that it was the work of the primitive
people who inhabited this island, The style of
its architecture does not correspond with any
remains of Grecian design, and much Ijbss
with any that have ever been attributed to the
Romans. The purpose for which this building
was intended, is in my opinion,sufficiently clear.
It is manifestly a Puratheion, one of those o-
pen jedifices, called by the Greeks T^ayOpd
(Ipaithra), in which the rites of fire were ce-
lebrated. This element was the symbol under
which the sun was once almost universally
worshipped : it originated in Egypt, fron;
whence it was carried by the several jiations
which came out from thafc country. Among
these were the Phoenicians, jBometimes style4
Pbaecians, who were probably the first settlors

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312 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

in this island, and the Cyclopes, whose chief
residence was near Mt. Etna in Sicily. Accord-
ing to the learned Bryant, (1) the latter people
belonged to the same family as the former, and
have been represented by the poets as persons
of an enormous stature, rude and savage in
their demeanour, and differing from the rest of
mankind by having one large eye in the centre
of the forehead. This and many other extra-
vagant tales, recorded in poetical history, con-
cerning these people, were founded on original
truths; and though they are so confused, that
one will often find it very difficult to draw a
correct line between the truth and fable which
they include, some general ideas can commonly
be formed from them, without much danger of
being led astray. In the present case, it is
very plain, that the Cyclopes were persons of
extraordinary strength, and were famous for
their skill in architecture, which they introduc-
ed into Greece, according to Herodotus, who
alludes to them under the name of Cadmians, in
his Lib. V. c. 6. So much esteemed were the
Cyclopes for their skill, that every thin,g great
and noble was looked upon as Cyclopean, (2)
in fact, there can be little doubt, that the ex-

(1) See his "Analysis of Ancient Mythology," Vol. I.
Art. 'Cyclopes.*

(2) "Quidquid magnitudine sua nobile est Cyclopum ma-
nu dicitur fabricatum." Lutatius Placidus in Statu Thebiad.
lib. i. p. 26.

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giants' tower. 313

travagant opinions which were entertained,
concerning the form and stature of this peo^
pie, were borrowed from the height and won-
derful structure of those edifices which they
built.

It is not my intention here to enter into an
investigation of the question, whether the
Phoenicians were or were not of the origin with
the Cyclopes; the re'ader will find the subject
very much elucited in the foregoing reference
which I have made to Bryant. It is evident that
the Phoenicians of Syria were also famous for
their skill in architecture,as well as in other arts,
from several remains which exist in that coun-
try, and which can be attributed to no other
people. Among these I would mention the
enclosure around the two temples at Baaibee,
in which are stones of an immense size, mea-
suring sixty feet in length and fourteen in
width. These are not^ it is true, composed of
unhewn stones, similar to those in the Giants'
Tower; but then some casualty alone may have
occasioned this difference, whilst we know, mo-
reover, that rough and unhewn stones were con-
sidered to be more pure than those that were
hewn, in the very earhest times Moses directed
(Ex. XX. 2b.) an altar to be raised to the Lord
of rough stones, not of hewn ones, which he
declared to be polluted. (See also Deut. xxvii
6. Josh, viii, 31, '32. Kzdra v. 8. 1 Mac. iv. 46
47.)

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314 PART IV. ITINERARY OF GOZO.

It may then be very plausibly, concluded
from the above, that the Giants' Tower is a
monument of the ingenuity, skill, and mecha-
nical powers of the Poenicians, of whom we
have other indubitable testimony that they Kv*
ed on this island, if they were not also its ori*
ginal inhabitants. ^

But the pupose for which such an extraor-
dinary structure was designed is another inte-
resting inquiry, which deserves a more criminal
examination than the limits of this work afford.
I have already premised ray opinion, that it
was destined as a place of worship, and that in
it the rites of fire were celebrated. This I think
may be clearly ai*gued from the fact that it has
not, nor ever appears to have had, a roof, and
from the manner in which the chambers are
disposed. Its situation, is another item not to
be overlooked in determining the original de-
sing of this structure. Such places were gene-
rally chosen for relijB;iou8 services, as hereby
people imagined that they obtained a nearer
communication with the Deity. Hence we read
as far back as the days of the Jewish Lawgiver,
concerning the kings of Cbanaan, that they
'' made their offerings in high places.^^ (Num,
xxii. 41, Lev. xxvi. 30.) Strabo records that the
Persians always performed their religious ser-
vices upon hills: and at the present day most
of the temples of the Japanese are constructed
upon eminences, and it is their opinion that

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giants' tower. 315

the gods are peculiarly delighted with such
high places.

But there is another circumstance which as-
sists in determining the character of this edifice,
and which I have omitted mentioning in my
description: I allude to the figure of a serpent,
roughly carved on a stone, close by the entran-
ce of the second apartment of the smaller tem-
ple. Under this symbol many of the earliest
nations, and among them the Phoenicians wor-
shipped the sun. The Egyptians sometimes
represented their gods with the bodies of ser-
pents; and they paid an idolatrous worship to
those odious and dangerous creatures, which
they call their good geniuses. They regarded
them as symbols of medicine, of the sun, of
Apollo. They were committed to the charge of
Ceres and Proserpine, and Herodotus says,
that in his time, near Thebes, were to be seen
tame serpents, consecrated to Jupiter. Upon
the basis of tradition, it appears that this ani-
mal was first regarded as the symbol of the
malignant being; secondly, that it was talisma-
nio; and after having gone through these pre-
paratory stages of apotheosis, was finally vene-
rated as divine.

That the Cyclopes were originally Opitae, o^
worshippers of the symbolical serpent, there is
suflBcient evidence to prove; and that the Phoe-
nicians followed their example in this respect
there can be little doudt. Both these people

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316 PART IV. ITINERARY 0^ GOZO.

emanated from Egypt, where this animal was
universally adored; and it was partly through
their instrumentality, that the same system
became almost general in Greece, and in many
of the islands of the Peloponnesus, as well as in
the Mediterranean,

Another item, which is worthy of notice in
this brief sketch, is the conical pillar which I
have mentioned as standing in the first apart-
ment of the large temple. The like figure was
common among the Egypti«kns, and was
called Ob'El, the same name which was given
to the sun, of which they intended it should be
the symbol; hence among the Greeks, who co-
pied from the Egyptians, everything gradually
tapering to a point, was styled Obelos and
^beliciis. In the first volume of Bryant's My-
thology, the author gives a plate of the Opis
iWmuthis, or oh Basiliscus JSgi/ptiactts, with a
priest kneeling down before it, holding in one
hand the figure of a cone.

The foregoing remarks will be useful,! hope,
^n conveying some ideas, which may lead to a
.oiore thorough and critical investigation into
this ancient building.

FINIS.

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INDEX.

Preface ... ,.. pag. 5,

P AET I.-

History of Malta — Preliminary Observations, Set-
tlement of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Cart^ginians
Eomans, Goths, Emperors of Constantinople, A^
rabs, Defeat of Emperor's Expedition, Count Ro-
ger, Rebellion of the A rabs.Emperops of Germa-
ny, Kings of Arragon and Castile, Chai-les V. of
Germany, An*ival of the Knights of St. John,
Their first acts, Malta besieged by the Tui-ks,
Confiscation of several commanderies, AiTival of
the French, Siege of Malta, Dreadful state of
the town, Appearances of the British fleet, The
French capitulate, Malta ceded to the British
Crown, ... ,., ... 9

PART II.

General Description of Malta. — Geographical
situation and features of the island. ... 55

Fertility and Production — Soil, Cultivation, Indu-
stry of the inhabitants, Com, Cotton, Clover
Fruits, Figs, Singular process in cultivation of,
Supply of water. Cattle, Fowls, Birds Fish. 60

Botany, ... ... 70

Climate — State of Thermometer, Sudden changes
of temperature, Summer heat. South wind, Sci-*
rocco, Beauty of evening sky, "Winter, Thunder. 7?

Population — Number of. Impoverished state of,
Causes of the foregoing : Impj-ovidence of the
people, Want of education. Bad system of teach-
ing Mechanics, Absence of a spirit of enter-
prise in the gentry. Character of the people by
a Spanish author. ... ... 80

Language and Education — Maliese language not
derived ft'om Phoenician. Attempts to reduce
the Maltese to writing. Present syste^i QfT;^'

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318 INDEX*

tional education. Inconsistency of, Backwai*d-
ness of the general mass of the people. 85

Music, Poetry, an4 Singing — 'Native musical in-
struments, Poetical compositions, Song, Mal-
tese pi-overbs, Ac. ... ... 91

Costume — Dress of the males, di'ess of the females
of the city, Keatnesfl of, Costume of the country
women ... ... ... 101

Amusements — Processions, Good Friday, Easter .
Sunday, Festival of St. Gregory, Curious article
in mEKridage contracts. Feast of St.Peter and St.
Paul, Baces, Carnival Parata origin of, Giostra
or Slippery pole, Boat-lrace ... 106

Administration of Justice — Origin of the pi'eseit
maltose codes. Confusion of. Enumeration of the
courts, Suppression of the bishop's tribunal.
Trial by Jury inti'oduced, Commission to di'aw
up new codes. Result of their laboui*s. Lan-
guage in which the maltese codes ought to be
written. ... ... ... 115

PART III.

Itinekary op Maltjl— Division of the island 129

Details of the City of Valletta — Foundation of the
city. Its situation. Streets, Houses, Mole, "Ware-
bouses, Health office, Exterior fortifications. Gates 132
Castle of St. Elmo .>. ... 138

Palace ... ... 145

Auberge of the Knights of Malta ... 151

Auberge de Provence ... ... 152

d' Auvergne ... ... 153

d' Italie ... ... —

de Castile ... ... 155

de France ... ... 156

d' Arragon —

of England and Anglo-Bavarian 157

of Germany ... ... 158

St, John's Church ... ... —

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IND£3C.

319

Hospitals

173

Monte diPieta

176

Government University
Public and Gali-ison Library ...

180

185

l^heatre Royal

190

Theatre Manoel

191

Castellatoia

192

Banco del Giurati

Market

193

Quarantine Harbour and Laz^afetto

Fort Manoel

• 196

Tigne ^

197

Tour round the walls of Valletta

198

Floriana

. ' 200

House of Industry

201

Asylum of the aged

203

Sa Maison

204

Protestant Burial-Ground

205

Capuchin Convent

206

Casa della Madonna di Manresa

208

Borgo or Citta Vittoriosa ...

211

Castle of St. Angelo

212

Victualling Yard ...
Inquisitoi*'s Palace ..:

214

215

Churches and Monafateiies of Borgo

218

St. Domenio's convent

—

Church of St. Lawrence

219

Santa Maria dei Greci

—

Convent of Santa Scolastica ...

221

Bunmola or Citta Cospicua ...

—

The New Dock Yaixi

223

Senglea or Isola

227

Oottonera fortifications

229

Capuchin Convent

230

Naval Hospital

—

FortRicasoli

231

Siege of Borgo and Senglea ...

237

Cemetery

247

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320 INDEX.

Interior of the Island ... ... 248

The A aqueduct ..i ... 351

Gwdens and Palace of St. Antonio ... 252

Lunatic Asylum ... ... 253

Gitta Vecchiaor laNotabile ... ... 254

St. Paul's cave 258

^•Catacombs ... ... 261

Ancient Tombs of Bingemma ... 265

Emtahleb ... ... 270

Boschetto ... ... —

The Ifiquisitor's Palace ... ... 272

Fauara ... ... 273

TheMakluba ... ... 274

Ohar Ha^an ... ... 276

Hermitage of St. Paul ... ... 277

St-P^WsBay ... ... 278

Melleha and Calypso's grotto ... 287

Marfa. ... ... 291

Inland of Comino ... ... 292

PART IV.

General Desceitpion of the. island op Gozo. —
Ancient name of. History of, Geographical des-
cription of, Fertility and productions, Popula-
tion^ Language, Custom ... ... 293

Bay ofMigiaiix) ... ... 301

Foi-t of Chambray ... ... —

Town of Eabbato ... ... 302

BayofShlendi ... ... 306

Bay of Marsa-el-Fom ' ... ... —

Hagi'a tal General or General's i-ock ... • 307

Gi-otto of Calypso ... ... 308

CasalNadur ... ...* 309

ToiTi tal Giganti or Gianf s Tower ... —

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■*J»_. ^v.i ^-7,

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