HK
'HISTORIC DRESS
IN AMERICA.
1607-1800
With an Introductory Chapter on Dress in the Spanish and
French Settlements in Florida and Louisiana
BY •
ELISABETH McCLELLAN
TRANSLATOR OF "SCHILLER AND HIS TIMES,' ETC.
illustrations in colour, pen and ink, and half-tone by
SOPHIE B. STEEL
OF THE PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL ART
TOGETHER WITH REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OF RARE PORTRAITS,
ORIGINAL GARMENTS, ETC.
PHILADELPHIA
GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY
PUBLISHERS
G-T
Co?
HI
Copyright, 1904, by
GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY
Published November, 1904
/
GT^o-]
FlClKK I
1
"Fashion wears out more apparel than the man," and happily
for us some relics of by-gone days have been preserved intact and
placed in our hands for the preparation of this book — veritable
documents of history on the subject of Dress in America, which
should teach you "the nice fashion of your country," and help you
"to construe things after their fashion."
For these interesting old garments and also for the valuable
portraits and family papers most generously entrusted to us for our
work I take this opportunity to express, in behalf of Miss Steel and
myself, our appreciation and sincere thanks.
Elisabeth McClellan.
Philadelphia, October, 1904.
T
V
Contents
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
The Spaniards in Florida and California, i565-i764....:'.r:'. :.M.'.,. **^|
The. French Settlements in Louisiana and the MississiPi>i FA;L^te;-y;\> ,- ;
1680-1764 i.'.ii: :::[:. . '; ' ;.'' "32
PART I. THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
The English Colonies in Virginia, Maryland, the Barbadoes, and
the CaROLINAS, 1607-1700 on
The English Colonies in Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Hamp-
shire, Maine, and Rhode Island, 1620-1700 79
The Dutch and English in New York, Long Island, the Jerseys,
Delaware, and Pennsylvania, 1621-1700 117
PART II. THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
Women's Dress, 1700-1800 173
Reign of Queen Anne i8i
Reign of George 1 190
Reign of George II 193
Reign of George III 202
After the Revolution 255
Children's Garments, 1700-1800 279
Men's Apparel, 1700-1800 295
Reigns of Queen Anne and George I 299
, Reign of George II 307
Reign of George III 316
After the Revolution 328
Legal Dress in the Eighteenth Century 335
Uniforms in America, 1775-1800 340
GLOSSARY 381
INDEX 397
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED 405
7
Illustrations
FIGtJRE PAGE
1. (In colours) Gown of red brocade worn in the Barbadoes Colony about
1685. Lent by Mrs. Rachel St. Clair Miller Frontispiece.
2. (Initial) Spanish galleon 25
3. Spanish gentleman, end of sixteenth century 26
4. Spanish soldiers with rapiers and arquebuses, middle of sixteenth century 27
5. Fernando De Soto, in Spanish armour of the sixteenth century 29
6. Sieur de La Salle, in French costume of 1680 29
7. Pedro Menendez de Aviles, in Spanish dress, 1565 29
8. Sir Francis Drake, in the dress of an English sea-captain, 1586 29
9. French peasant women 34
10. Jesuit missionaries 35
11. (Initial) Sir Walter Raleigh 43
12. Captain John Smith, 1616 44
13. Sir Edwyn Sandys, 1607 45
14. George Sandys, Secretary of the Virginia Colony, reign of Charles 1 45
15. Sir Isaac Pennington, reign of Charles 1 45
i6. Sir John Pennington, reign of Charles 1 45
17. A farthingale, 1607 47
18. Ordinary dress of a boy, 1602-1676 47
19. Dress of a colonial governor, reign of Charles 1 49
20. Dress of a colonial lady, reign of Charles 1 49
21. Costume of a planter's wife, reign of James 1 49
22. Costume of a gentleman planter, reign of James 1 49
23. Ordinary dress of a little girl, 1602-1676 52
24. EngUsh mariner, 1650 and after 53
25. Countryman in doublet, 1660 and after 54
26. Soldier in cuirass and morion, seventeenth century 55
27. Silver frontlet worn by the Queen of the Pamunkeys 57
28. Silver mace, used in the House of Burgesses, Virginia 57
29. Sir George Percy, second governor of Virginia 57
30. Steel vambrace dug up near Jamestown 57
31. Doublet worn in the reign of James 1 59
32. Indoor dress of an English gentlewoman, reign of Charles 1 65
9
lo ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE PAGE
33. Outdoor summer costume of an English lady, reign of Charles 1 65
34. Back view of outdoor dress, reign of Charles 1 68
35. English lady in hood and apron, reign of Charles 1 69
36. English gentlewoman in winter dress, furs and mask, reign of Charles I.. 69
37. A peddler, from an old print 73
37J. Monmouth cap 74
38. (In colours) Lady of quality in the fashionable dress of William and Mary's
reign 75
39. (In colours) Typical dress of a child in the seventeenth century 75
40. (In colours) Outdoor dress of a tradeswoman, end of the seventeenth cen-
tury 75
41. (In colours) Workingman, end of seventeenth century 75
42. (In colours) A gentleman in the reign of Wilham and Mary 75
43. (Initial) A Puritan dame .^ 83
44. Mandillion of black silk, 1620 and after 85
45. Photograph of a doublet, reign of Charles I 87
46. Photograph of a doublet, reign of James 1 87
47. Typical winter costume of a lady, 1640 90
48. Boy's doublet of white linen embroidered with gold silk, reign of Charles I 91
49. Bodice of white satin, reign of Charles I 91
5o» 51, 52, 53» 54- Boots, 1595-1660 94
5S» 56, 57- Boots, 1660-1690 95
58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65. Shoes, 1610-1695 96
66. Puritan colonist of the Massachusetts Bay Company 97
67. Puritan woman of the Massachusetts Bay Company 97
68. An English gentleman of about 1666 97
69. A lady of the same date (1666) in walking hood and fur tippet 97
70. 71. Cannons or breeches fastenings, 1650 99
72. Lady's glove with embroidered cuff, seventeenth century loi
73. Head, after Hollar, showing fashionable style of hair-dressing, reigns of
Charles I and II loi
74) 75) 76, 77. Gloves worn in the seventeenth century loi
78. Man in buff coat and bandolier, 1620-1660 103
79, 80. Points with aiglets, 1650-1660 104
81. Samuel Sewell, Governor and Judge of Massachusetts Colony 105
82. Sir John Leverett, Governor of Massachusetts 105
83. 84, 85, 86, 87. Various forms of the buff coat 107
88, 89, 90. Gorgets, 1620-1645 108
91. John Winthrop the second, 1640 in
92. Sir John Leverett, about 1680 in
93. John Winthrop, Governor of Massachusetts Colony in 1629 m
94. James Winslow, Governor of Plymouth Colony, 1644 in
ILLUSTRATIONS n
FIGURE PAGE
95. (Initial) Dutch colonist in New Amsterdam 121
96. Peter Stuyvesant, Governor of New York Colony, 1647 123
97. Sir Edmond Andros, Colonial Governor of New York, 1674-1681 123
98. Henry Hudson, 1609 123
99. Sir William Keith, Governor of the Province of Pennsylvania, 17 17 ... 123
100. Dutch woman in working dress, seventeenth century 126
loi. (In colours) Dutch lady of New Amsterdam, about 1640 127
102. (In colours) Patroon, about 1640 127
103. (In colours) Dutch lady, about 1660 127
104. (In colours) English gentleman, end of reign of Charles II 127
105. Dutchman in working dress, about 1650 129
106. Dutch girl in fur cap and fur-trimmed jacket, 1641 131
107. Dutch lady, hair arranged in puffs at the side, 1645 131
108. Little Dutch girl, middle of seventeenth century 131
109. Little Dutch boy, same period 131
1 10. Dutch lady in fur cap and mantle, 1644 13 1
111. Swedish lady in pointed fur cap and ruff, 1640 131
112. 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120. Hats, 1606-1692 135
121. Coif of a Dutch matron, late seventeenth century 136
122. Dress of an English gentlewoman, 1640 137
123. Swedish woman in clogs, 1640 137
124. Dutch lady in outdoor dress, 1640 137
125. EngUsh lady in house dress, 1640 137
126. Dutch lady in wide-brimmed hat and ruff, 1645 141
127. EngUsh lawyer, seventeenth century 141
128. EngUsh woman in silk hood and tippet, 1640 141
129. Dutch lady in fur tippet and hood, middle of seventeenth century 141
130. Boy in periwig, about 1680 141
131. English woman in coif and kerchief, 1640 141
132. Portrait of Uttle girls in seventeenth century, reign of Charles I 145
133. Portrait of two Dutch boys, middle of seventeenth century 145
134. Periwig of Charles II, 1660 147
135. Periwig of William III, 1690 147
136. Campaign wig, 1684 147
137. Coat and full breeches of buff brocade, 1681 149
138. Coat and full breeches of dark red flowered silk, 1681 149
139. Coat and breeches of silk trimmed with fancy braid, reign of James II. . . 149
140. Jeremias Van Rensselaer, end of seventeenth century 153
141. KiUaen Van Rensselaer, first patroon of New Amsterdam, 1695 153
142. Sergeant-at-law, reign of Charles II 156
143- Quaker gentleman, 1682 157
144. Quaker lady, 1682 : 157
12 ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE PAGE
145. Huguenot lady, 1686 157
146. Huguenot gentleman, 1686 157
147. Sergeant-at-law, reign of James II 159
148. Count Zinzendorf in preacher's robe 161
149. Samuel Bradstreet in judge's robe, about 1670 161
150. Lady Fenwick, in widow's mourning, reign of William and Mary 161
151. Elisabeth Boehler, Moravian lady in Pennsylvania, 1787 161
152. Moravian coif 164
153. Reticule of white silk embroidered in crepe flowers 165
154. Waistcoat of Count Lemcke, about 1798 165
155. 156. White silk pocket cases embroidered in colours, about 1790 165
157, 158. Moravian cap of lawn worn over a coif 167
1 59. Specimens of colonial silver, seventeenth century 169
160. Specimens of pewter ware, carved knife boards, etc., seventeenth century 169
161. (Initial) Lady in sacque, early eighteenth century 177
162. (In colours) Colonial costume of 17 11, of buff chine silk, from an original
gown lent by Mrs. Rachel St. Clair Miller 179
163. (In colours) Gentleman in costume of 1702-1720, reign of Queen Anne. . 179
164. (In colours) Colonial costume of reign of George I, from an original gown
lent by Mrs. Samuel Chew 179
165. (In colours) Man in dress of a gentleman in the reign of George 1 179
166. 167. Colonial fashion baby, 1720 183
168, 169. Camlet hood, taken from an original garment of about 1702 185
170. Short sacque, early eighteenth century 187
171. Colonial dress, worn in Pennsylvania in the reign of George 1 191
172. White satin wedding gown, 1760 191
173. Lutestring gown worn in Philadelphia in 1760 191
174. Colonial dress of buff chine silk worn in the Barbadoes Colony in reign
of Queen Anne 191
175. Lady in a cardinal, early eighteenth century 194
176. 177, 178, 179, 180, 181. Caps, 1744-1745 195
182. Man in a Roquelaure, reign of Queen Anne 197
183. Back view of a yellow damask gown, reign of George I 197
184. Green brocade gown, worn in Massachusetts Colony, reign of George I . . 197
185. Back view of gentleman's dress, reign of George 1 197
186. 187, Hooped petticoats, 1721-1750 199
188. Pair of stays, about 1770. Lent by Miss Sarah Bache Hodge 200
189. Clog, eighteenth century 201
190. Patten, eighteenth century 201
191. Riding hat of fawn-coloured felt, reigns of George II and III 202
192. Colonial gown of kincob brocade, worn in Massachusetts about 1735.
Lent by Miss Archie Newlin 203
ILLUSTRATIONS 13
FIGURE PAGE
193. Colonial gown worn in Virginia, about 1775 203
194. Riding mask, eighteenth century 205
195. (In colours) Colonial gown of camlet, worn in the Massachusetts Colony,
1725. Lent by Mrs. Charles Hacker 207
196. (In colours) Gown of kincob brocade, time of George II 207
197. (In colours) Young gallant in full dress, 1740 207
198. (In colours) Colonial gown of green taffeta, worn by Mrs. Wilimina
Weemys Moore, about 1740. Lent by Miss Sarah Brinton 207
199. House-maid in sacque, apron and clogs, middle of eighteenth century 209
200. Mrs. Catharine Van Rensselaer in the popular style of cap, about 1770. . 211
201. Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton in an every-day dress. From photograph lent
by Mrs. Cutter 211
202. Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton, Jr., showing a peculiar cap of 1784. From
photograph lent by Mrs. Cutter 211
203. Mrs. Mary Faneuil of Boston, about 1750 211
204. A Watteau gown of fawn-coloured silk brocaded with coloured flowers
worn in Pennsylvania about 1752. Lent by Mrs. WiUiam Bacon
Stevens 215
205. Crimson brocade gown worn by Mrs. Faithful Hubbard of the Massa-
chusetts Colony, 1750. From a photograph lent by Mrs. Cutter 215
206. Another view of the green kincob gown over a white satin skirt with
apron and stomacher of white silk embroidered in colours 215
207. Back view of the kincob gown showing the Watteau plaits 215
208. Lady's silk shoe, about 1775 217
209. 210, 211. Diagram of white satin gown worn by Mrs. St. Clair about
1760 218
212. (In colours) Wedding gown of a New England Quaker lady, about 1750.
Lent by Mrs. Charles Hacker 219
213. (In colours) Gown of rich brocade worn by Mrs. Michael Gratz about
1750. Lent by Miss Miriam Mordecai 219
214. (In colours) Suit of uncut velvet worn by Robert Livingston of Clermont,
reign of George II. Lent by Mrs. David E. Dallam 219
215. (In colours) Back view of Watteau gown of fawn-coloured silk.'?i^gj*j=^^^^2^
216. Beaver hat and short cloak, middle of eighteenth century I 221
217. Back view of suit of uncut velvet worn by Robert Livingston of Clermont.
Lent by Miss Anna Griffith 223
218. Back view of white satin wedding gown of Mrs. St. Clair 223
219. Everyday costume of a young lady, flowered chintz over a quilted petti-
coat, about 1770 223
220. Elderly man of business in a coat of strong fustian over nankeen breeches,
1 7 70-1 790. From a coat lent by Miss Sallie Johnson 223
221. Group of colonial garments, eighteenth century 227
14 ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE PAGE
222. Calashes, Quaker hats, Quaker bonnet, riding hat, etc., eighteenth
century 227
223. Lady in capuchin, with fur trimmings and muff, reign of George III 229
224. Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Izard, 1780 231
225. Portrait of the West family, 1799 231
226. 227. Calashes, 1765 233
228. (In colours) Dress of blue lutestring worn by Mrs. St. Clair, 1760. Lent
by Mrs. Rachel St. Clair Miller 235
229. (In colours) Suit of dark satin worn by Robert Livingston of Clermont.
Lent by Miss Anna Griffith 235
230. (In colours) White satin wedding gown of Mrs. St. Clair, 1760. Lent by
Mrs. Rachel St. Clair Miller 235
231. (In colours) Suit of uncut velvet, waistcoat of quilted satin, worn by
Robert Livingston, of Clermont, reign of George III. Lent by Miss
Anna Griffith 235
232. Quaker cape and cap, 1780 237
233. Embroidered reticule 239
234. Ladies gloves of doeskin, 17 17. Lent by Mrs. William H. Dreer 239
235. Bead reticule and paste buckles. Lent by Mrs. John Biddle 239
236. Bonnet of muslin made over reeds, 1780. Lent by Mrs. John Biddle... 239
237. Crepe shawl with printed figures, late eighteenth century 239
238. Linen pocket embroidered in colours, 1752 239
239. Colonial jewelry and snuff-box. Lent by Mrs. Howard Gardiner 239
240. Lady's slipper of green and white taffeta. Lent by Mrs. WiUiam H.
Dreer 239
241. Fan painted by Gamble, 1771. Lent by Mrs. Charles Hodge 239
242. Typical dress of a country girl, 1780 246
243. Night-rail, eighteenth century 252
244. Gown of mauve crepe, end of eighteenth century. Lent by Miss Janethe 253
245. Front view of Watteau gown of fawn-coloured silk, brocaded in flowers. . 253
246. Gown of white embroidered mushn worn in 1790. Lent by Mrs. George
Knorr 253
247. CaUco short sacque, late eighteenth century 253
248. Gown of glazed buff chintz, 1795. Lent by Mrs. Cooper Smith 253
249. Riding habit, about 1785 260
250. Mrs. Pennington in Quaker dress, 1780. From a portrait lent by Mrs.
Howard Gardiner 261
251. Catharine Schuyler Van Rensselaer, 1795. Lent by Mrs. J. K. Van
Rensselaer 261
252. Mrs. Hill in Quaker dress, 1785 261
253. Dutch lady of the New York Colony, 1765. Lent by Mrs. J. K. Van
Rensselaer 261
ILLUSTRATIONS 15
FIGURE PAGE
254. Summer costume, 1790-1795 264
255. (In colours) Suit worn at the court of France by William West, Esq., of
Philadelphia, 1778. Lent by Francis Hemsley, Esq 265
256. (In colours) Lady's costume of the prevailing French fashion, 1777-1779 265
257. (In colours) Gentleman's suit of drab cloth, 1786 265
258. (In colours) Muslin gown with flowing skirt and long sleeved bodice,
1790 265
259. Woman in typical working dress, 1790-1800 268
260. White satin wedding slippers, 1800. Lent by Mrs. Schaeffer 269
261. Cups and saucers, owned by Robert Treat Paine. Lent by Mrs. William
H. Dreer 269
262. Group of slippers, 1735-1780 269
263. Blue brocade wedding slippers, 1771. Lent by Miss Helen Morton 269
264. Wine glasses and point lace belonging to Governor Wentworth, 1717-
1730. Lent by Mrs. William H. Dreer 269
265. Back of mauve crepe shown in figure 341 273
266. Silk pehsse with quilted border, 1797. Lent by Frank W. Taylor, Esq. 274
267. 268. Seventeenth century utensils 275
269. (Initial) Boy and girl after Sir Joshua Reynolds, late eighteenth century 283
270. (In colours) Girl in red stuff gown and mushn cap, about 1730 285
271. (In colours) Child in printed gown and embroidered cap, about 17 10 285
272. (In colours) Child in gown of white damask linen, about 1720 285
273. (In colours) Little boy in blue suit, about 1740 285
274. (In colours) Boy in brown velvet suit and cocked hat, about 1760 285
275. (In colours) Boy in blue ribbed silk suit worn in Pennsylvania about
1756 285
276. (In colours) Child in buff printed cambric dress, about 1760 285
277. (In colours) Child in sheer muslin gown, with cap to match, 1790 285
278. (In colours) Little girl in cloak, muff and hat, after Sir Joshua Reynolds,
about 1780 285
279. (In colours) Young girl in muslin gown trimmed with embroidery, about
1790 285
280,281. Child's stays. Lent by Mrs. Gummere 287
282. Portrait of young girl in Philadelphia, about 1760 289
283. Miss Hill of Philadelphia, 1756 289
284. Portrait of a child in New York, about 1700. Lent by Mrs. J. K. Van
Rensselaer 289
285. Christiana Ten Broeck, early eighteenth century 289
286. Baby dress and cap, 177 1. Lent by Mrs. George Knorr 291
287. Boy in ordinary dress, 1790 292
288. 289. Front and back views of a "flying Josie," late eighteenth century.
Lent by Mrs. Schaeffer 293
i6 ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE PAGE
290. Suit of blue silk worn by a little boy about 1756 293
291. Child's dress of buff chintz worn in Pennsylvania, 1710 293
292. White shift with plaited sleeves 293
293. Child's dress of damask linen worn about 1720 293
294. (Initial) Man in long trousers and riding boots, late eighteenth century.. 299
295. Kiliaen Van Rensselaer, reign of James II. Lent by Mrs. J. K. Van
Rensselaer 301
296. Jan Baptist Van Rensselaer, reign of George I. Lent by Mrs. J. K.
Van Rensselaer 301
297. A genuine Roquelaure, middle of eighteenth century. Lent by Frank
W. Taylor, Esq 303
298. 299, 300. Wigs, 1700-1750 304
301. William Penn, by Benjamin West 305
302. George Washington, by Gilbert Stewart, 1797 305
303. Back view of suit of dark satin worn by Robert Livingston 308
304. Rev. George Whitefield, latter half of eighteenth century 309
305. Rev. Jacob Duche, D.D., late eighteenth century 309
306. Dr. Ezra Stiles, late eighteenth century 309
307. Rt. Rev. Richard Challoner, Vicar Apostolic of the English Colonies in
America, 1756 309
308. Jonathan Edwards, second half of eighteenth century 309
309. Rt. Rev. Samuel Provoost, D.D., First Bishop of New York, late eight-
eenth century 309
310. Back view of coat of light brown velvet, reign of George II 313
311. Front view of same 313
312,313. Front and back views of coat of brown twilled cotton jean, typical
summer garment of a Friend 313
314. Gentleman in banyan and cap, middle of eighteenth century 315
315. John Penn, in fur-trimmed coat 317
316. Thomas Penn as colonial governor 317
317. Patrick Gordon as colonial governor 317
318. James Hamilton, Lieutenant Governor of Pennsylvania, 1783 317
319. 320, 321, 322. Boots, 1702-1784 319
323. James Logan in judicial robe, 1745 321
324. Fisher Ames, middle of eighteenth century 321
325. John Jay in robe, as Chief Justice of the United States 321
326. Nathaniel Appleton of Boston, by Copley 321
327. Henry Laurens, by Copley 321
328. Man in working garb, 1750 323
329. John Hancock, Governor of the Massachusetts Colony, reign of George
III 325
330. Samuel Shoemaker, Mayor of Philadelphia, and his son, 1789 325
ILLUSTRATIONS
17
FIGURE PAGE
331. Portrait showing the plain but handsome costume of a gentleman in
Pennsylvania at the outbreak of the Revolution 325
332. Portrait of a Quaker gentleman, 1774 325
333. Sporting dress, about 1733 327
334. Suit of velvet vi^ith raised figures, vt'orn by Robert Livingston about
1770. Lent by Miss Anna Griffith 329
335. Pistols with silver mounting, about 1765. Lent by Mrs. John Biddle.. 329
336. Cap worn by Governor Taylor of New York, 1730 329
337. Silk waistcoat, 1780. Lent by Mrs. Krumbhaar 329
338. Double-breasted waistcoat of figured silk, about 1790 329
339. Working man, last half of eighteenth century 331
340. (In colours) Brown broadcloth suit worn by Mr. Johnson of German-
town, 1790. Lent by Miss SalUe Johnson 333
341. (In colours) Mauve crepe gown worn by Mrs. Sartori of San Domingo.
Lent by Miss Janethe 333
342. (In colours) Dress of fine glazed buff cambric owned by Madame Cheva-
leir, end of eighteenth century. Lent by Mrs. Cooper Smith 333
343. (In colours) Man in short- waisted, high- collared coat and nankeen
breeches, end of eighteenth century. Lent by Frank W. Taylor, Esq. 333
344. (In colours) Muslin dress trimmed with tambour embroidery worn in
Philadelphia, 1797 333
345. Doctor of Civil Law, end of eighteenth century 336
346. Summer coat of dark blue silk with nankeen breeches, late eighteenth
century 337
347. Back view of brown broadcloth coat worn by Mr. Johnson about 1790.
Lent by Miss Sallie Johnson 337
348. Front view of same over nankeen waistcoat 337
349. Coat of brown twilled cotton, over white silk embroidered waistcoat
and brown satin knee breeches, worn in Philadelphia about 1790.
Lent by Mrs. John Biddle 337
350. Judge in scarlet robe, end of eighteenth century 339
351. Dress of ordinary seaman, 1775 341
352. Portrait of Washington, drawn from Hfe by Du Simitifere 343
353. Henry Laurens, drawn from life by Du Simitifere 343
354. W. H. Drayton, Esq., drawn from life by Du Simitiere 343
355. Gouverneur Morris, drawn from life by Du Simitiere 343
356. Silhouette of John Randolph of Roanoke 347
357. Silhouette of Washington, showing fine net over hair and queue 347
358. Silhouette of Bishop White, showing knickerbockers 347
359. Silhouette of Alexander Hamilton 347
360. Silhouette of James McClellan, of Connecticut 347
361. Uniform of Light Horse Troop of Philadelphia, 1775 349
2
i8 ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE PAGE
362. Commodore Barry of the United States Navy 351
363. Paul Jones of the United States Navy 351
364. Camp at Valley Forge, showing military cloak and great coat 351
365. General Warren in dress of a minute-man 355
366. General Daniel Morgan in buckskin coat of the Virginia Rangers 355
367. Comte De Rochambeau in dress of a French officer, 1791 355
368. Uniform recommended by Washington in the early part of the Revolu-
tion 359
369. A minute-man 359
370. Dress of First Company, Governor's Foot Guard, Connecticut 359
371. Dress of First Pennsylvania Infantry 359
372. Dress of Second Pennsylvania Infantry 359
373. Uniform directed by Minister of War, 1785 359
374. Uniform of the Light Infantry, 1782 359
375. Front view of uniform recommended by Minister of War, 1785 359
376. Major General Pinckney in uniform 363
377. Major General St. Clair in uniform 363
378. General O. H. WiUiams in uniform 363
379. General Andrew Pickens in uniform 363
380. General Montgomery in uniform 367
381. General Francis Marion in uniform 367
382. General Israel Putnam in uniform of a Continental trooper 367
383. General Philemon Dickinson in uniform 367
384. General John Sullivan in uniform 367
385. Uniform of an American officer, 1796 376
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
ON DRESS IN THE
. Spanish and French Settlements
UNDER
PHILIP II AND LOUIS XIV
DATES OF THE SPANISH, FRENCH, SWEDISH, AND
GERMAN SETTLEMENTS
Florida 1565 Spanish^
Acadia 1605 French
Quebec 1608 French
Louisiana 1680 French
Texas (afterwards a part of the Spanish
Province of Mexico) 1692 ^Spanish^cf
Mississippi Valley 1699 French
California 1769 SpanislkV
Banks of the Delaware 1637 Swedish
Pennsylvania 1. 1683 German
DATES OF THE ENGLISH AND DUTCH
COLONIES ,
\ Virginia 1607 English ^^â– ""^
1-Massachusetts 1620 English i —
1) ( New Amsterdam 1621 Dutch V
rNew York 1664 English S^^"^
k^New Hampshire 1623C Englislf •— ~-
iTBarbadoes t 1625 English .
<;^ Maryland J 1633 EnglishJ*"
Connecticut . . . j 1635 English '--^
Rhode Island A 1636 English •--—
The Carolines. '. i'655, English ^ —
) °^ew Jersey 1664, English <-—
^ • Pennsylvania 1682 - Enghsh ^-^
,»- Delaware^. 1682, English, i — *
Georgia 1732 English <^^ \
RULERS OF THE SETTLEMENTS AND COLONIES
IN AMERICA
Spanish. Philip II r 1556-1598
Philip III 1598-1621 1..
Philip IV 1621-16653^
Charles II 1665-1700 •■'^
French. Louis XIII 1610-1.643 3
Louis XIV 1643-1715 'l
Swedish. Christina 1633-1654(9
Charles X 1654-1660 ^^b
Charles XI 1660-1697 S-
German. Frederick WiUiam, Elector of Brandenburg 1640-1,688
Frederick, Elector of Brandenburg, afterwards King Frederick
I of Prussia 1688-1713 -t> "*»
Leopold I, Emperor of Germany 1658-170^ ,' ^o^
Dutch. Maurice, Stadtholder i587-»ie'25 u. -
Frederick Henry i625-i64_2^>:
William II 1647-165'a '
U^iited Provinces of the Netherlands 1650-167 2
William of Orange, afterwards William III of England 1672-1702^
English. James I 1603-1625 -*
Charles I 1625-1649
Commonwealth under Cromwell 1649-1653
Protectorate under Cromwell 1653-1660 >
-Charles II T660-1685
James II 1685-1689
William and Mary 1689-1702
S^Queen Anne » .1702-1714""^^"
George I 1714-1727
George II 17 27-1 7 60
George III 1760-1820
PRESIDENTS OF THE UNITED STATES
George Washington 1789-1797
John Adams .1797-1801
19
The Spaniards in Florida and California
1 565-1 764
Figure 2.
A Spanish Galleon.
" Those were the days of dreams and legends,
Continents were new."
HE first settlement in North America was the
Spanish post of St. Augustine in Florida, founded
by Pedro Menendez de Aviles in August, 1565.
Unsuccessful attempts had been made to colonize*
Florida both by the French and the Spaniards
from very early in the sixteenth century, but the
hostility of the native Indians had prevented
the founding of anything like a colony. Menen-
dez (Figure 7) found a small Huguenot mission
when he landed, which he immediately de-
stroyed,, putting the people and Jean Ribaut,
their leader, to death in the most heartless manner. Horribly cruel,
deplorably superstitious, and very short-sighted in their policy were
these early Spanish settlers, but their costumes, as represented by the
great contemporary painters, Vargas, Roelas, Velasquez, Murillo,
Moro and others, must have been strikingly picturesque.
Parkman says: "Month after month, and year after year the
adventurers came, a procession of priests and cavaliers, crossbow-
men and arquebusiers (Figure 4), and Indian guides laden with
baggage."*
They came in search of fabulous riches which, according to some
* Pioneers of France in the^New World, by Francis Parkman.
25
/ .
26
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
4
Spanish Munchausen, the soil of the interior contained, and also to
bathe in the waters of a river of perpetual youth, a fable in which
even their leaders believed.
/ The dress of a Spanish gentleman of this period consisted of a
' doublet and slashed breeches, with long silken hose and -shoes of
, Cordovan leather slashed on the toe, a ruff of lace at the neck, and a
•silk hat with high soft crown and narrow brim. The dress of a
Spanish soldier is shown in detail in
Figure.
Sir Francis Drake (Figure 8), in
1586, stopped at St. Augustine on his
way from the West Indies to join Sir
Walter Raleigh in Virginia (Figure 11),
and made a reconnoissance of the har-
bour, but the Spaniards fled at his
approach. He destroyed a few houses
and outposts in order probably to
inspire the inhabitants with a whole-
some respect for the English navy, and
went on his way rejoicing in the cap-
ture of a pay-chest containing ;i^2,ooo.
St. Augustine at that time is described
as "a prosperous settlement with a council house, church and
handsome gardens." Some traces of the Spanish occupation are
yet to be seen and the old castle or fortress built in 1620 is still
standing.
It was never the policy of Spain to make her colonies self-
supporting ; they were not allowed to raise or manufacture even the
necessaries of life, everything must be imported from the mother
country.
Later in the seventeenth century, settlements were also made in
California, where the Spaniards established missionary and military
Figure 3.
A Spanish Gentleman, End of Six-
teenth Century.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
27
stations in 1698, and Spain had for a time two flourishing colonies
in the territory now embraced within the limits of the United States.
In Spain and France, as well as in England and the Low Coun-
tries, the prevailing types of _costume during t he sev en teenth cent urvt
were very much alike, and the people in all the Colonies of America,!
following the fashions of their time, wore doublets, farthingales, ruffs, '
bands, hoods, riding-masks, etc., full descriptions of which are given'
in the glossary and throughout Part I, with many illustrations. /
IX^
HajoO'trJ. 1568.
Figure 4.
Spanish Soldiers of the Middle of the Sixteenth Century, with Rapiers and Arquebuses
(from a Contemporary Print).
During the reign of Charles II of Spain his kingdom was con-
tinually at war with England. The Spanish population of St.
Augustine numbered about three hundred people and fifty Franciscan
friars in 1665, when Captain John Davis, the notorious English
buccaneer, landed and destroyed the town. After this the Spanish
Government established a fort at Pensacola to protect its interests
r
28 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
in Florida, but finally the two kings, Charles II of England and
Charles II of Spain, made a treaty for the suppression of buccaneer-
ing, causing a marked decline in that lawless but romantic profession
which has furnished plots for many an exciting tale. In "The Buc-
caneers of America" * a portrait of Sir Henry Morgan shows a very
rich costume of slashed doublet and embroidered baldrick. Francis
Lolonais, a fierce-looking buccaneer of French extraction, is por-
trayed in a very short doublet trimmed with a row of square tabs
round the waist. \
The records we find of the Spanish rule in Florida, which lasted
until 1763, when that province was ceded to Great Britain in ex-
change for Havana, captured by the English the preceding year,
bear witness to the charms of the women, their lovely expressive
black eyes, clear brunette complexion, and carefully arranged hair.
"At mass they are always well dressed in black silk basquinas with
little mantillas (or black lace veils) over their heads. The men are
in military costume." Dancing, as in all the Spanish provinces,
was a favourite amusement, and the Posey Dance, now obsolete,
was very popular many years ago. It is thus described : f
"The ladies of a household arrange in a room of their dwelling
an arbour decked with garlands of flowers and lighted with many
candles. This is understood by the gentlemen as an invitation to
drop in and admire the decorations. Meanwhile the lady who has
prepared it selects a partner from among her visitors and hands him
a bouquet of flowers. The gentleman who receives this posey be-
comes for the nonce the king of the ball, and leads out the fair donor
as queen of the dance. The others take partners and the ball thus
inaugurated may continue several successive evenings. Should the
lady's choice fall upon an unwilling swain, which seldom happened,
he could be excused by paying the expenses of the entertainment."
* By John Esquemeling.
t History and Antiquities of St. Augustine, by George R_E"airbanks.
Figure 5.
Figure 6.
Figure 7.
Figure S.
29
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 31
These assemblies were always informal and frequented by all
classes, all meeting on a level, but were conducted with the utmost
politeness and decorum, for which the Spanish character is so dis-
tinguished.
^The customs, as well as the costumes, of their native land were
followed by these Spanish colonists, and as both California and
Florida closely resemble Spain in climate and vegetation, the old
modes of life were found particularly appropriate.
With the Spanish colonies, Texas may be included, for although
this territory was the subject of numerous political intrigues between
the Spanish authorities and the French in Louisiana, in 1692 it
became a part of the Spanish province of Mexico.
The French Settlements
m
Louisiana and the Mississippi Valley
1680-1764
"A gay and gallant company
Those voyagers of old."
Undeterred by the failures and reverses of previous explorers, the
French King Louis XIV sent out an expedition under Robert Cavalier
de La Salle (Figure 6) in 1680, to discover if possible a water-
way across the continent through which ships might pass to the
South Sea, as the Pacific Ocean was called in those days.
La Salle experienced many hardships on the way, but finally
reached the Mississippi River and sailed southward to its mouth in the
Gulf of Mexico. At this point a wooden column was raised, hymns
were sung, and La Salle proclaimed, "In the name of Louis the
great King of France and Navarre, fourteenth of that name, I do
take possession of this country of Louisiana — from the mouth of
the river St. Louis and along the river Colbert, or Mississippi,
from its source beyond the country of the Sioux as far as its mouth."
A cross was raised by the side of the column and in the ground at
its foot was buried a leaden plate bearing the arms of France and
the inscription, "Ludovicus Magnus Regnat."
By this discovery La Salle had proved that ships from Europe
might sail to the vast interior of the continent. He now hoped to
colonize the valley of the Mississippi, and add a new lustre to the
crown of France.
32
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 33
Father Hennepin, writing in 1683, says: "Le Sieur de la Salle
appeared at Mass very well dress'd in his scarlet cloak trimmed
with gold lace."* A picture of the fashionable cloak of that period ,
is given in Figure 3.
Discouraged by many hardships, on their way up the Mississippi
River some of La Salle's men mutinied and killed the great explorer,
but, despite his failure to found a colony at the outlet of the Mis-
sissippi, he stands out in history as the foremost pioneer in North
America.
Trading posts and mission stations grew up in many places,
and were gradually augmented by bands of emigrants from other
parts of the country.
Louis XIV still cherished the ambition to found a Colonial Domin-
ion on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, so dramatically claimed
for him by La Salle, — a colony which in time might rival the flourish-
ing English settlements on the Atlantic coast. Accordingly, in 1698,
he sent out to Louisiana a squadron of two frigates and two smaller
ships bearing a company of mariners and about two hundred colonists.
Among the latter^Bcre many ex-soldiers of the French army accom-
panied by their w^^s and children. Others were artisans, labourers,
and needy adventurers. "They were all supplied with necessary
clothing, provisions, and implements for beginning a settlement in
the remote solitudes of Louisiana."
In 1704, twenty unmarried women were sent out under the charge
of two nuns, and shortly after their arrival in Louisiana were married
to bachelor colonists. The same ship brought troops to reinforce
the garrison, and four priests.
' The costume of these early French settlers was somewhat motley ^ ^
in its composition. The women were dressed in coloured bodices \
and short gowns of handmade woolen stuffs, or of French goods of '
finer texture. In summer most of them went without shoes, but in i
♦Description of Louisiana 1683, translated by J. G. Shee.
34
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
J
, winter and on holidays they wore Indian moccasins gaily decorated
I with porcupine quills, shells, and coloured beads. Instead of hats
( they wore kerchiefs of bright colours interlaced with gay ribbons
1 or wreathed with flowers.
I >/ The men wore long vests drawn over their shirts, leggings of
buckskin or of coarse woolen cloth, and wooden clog shoes or moc-
casins of heavy leather. In winter they wrapped themselves in long
( capotes or overcoats with capes and hoods which could be drawn
(Over their heads, thus serving for hats. In summer their heads were
covered with blue handkerchiefs
worn turbanlike as a protection from
mosquitoes as well as from the sun.
The French settlements were
usually small villages on the edge
of the prairie or in the heart of the
woods. They were always near the
bank of a river, for the watercourses
were the only roads, and the light
canoes, such as the Indians used, the
only means of travel. In these
villages the French settlers lived like
one family, ruled by the village
priests and the elders of the com-
munity. Their houses were built along a single narrow street, and
close enough together for the villagers to carry on a neighbourly
gossip, each from his own doorstep.
Adjoining the village was a large enclosure, or common field,
for the free use of all the villagers. It was divided into allotments,
one for each household, the size proportioned to the number of per-
sons in the family.
The village traders always kept a small stock of French goods,
laces, ribbons and other useful and ornamental articles, which they
Figure 9.
French Peasant Women (from a Con-
temporary French Print).
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
35
exchanged with the settlers for the products of the forest. Some of
the young men became voyageurs or boatmen in the service of the
traders. When the wood-rangers returned once a year to their village
homes, great was the rejoicing, and old and young gathered around
them to hear the story of their adventures. These French settlers
took characteristic delight in amusement and "had almost as many
holidays as working days." *
Indian converts lived in amicable intercourse with the settlers,
learning from them to culti-
vate the ground, and to
manufacture various useful
articles from the hair of the
buflfalo.
Many of the original set-
tlers married Indian women;
their descendants were called
half-breeds or Gumbos, the
latter being a nick-name given
to them by the French. The
language of the Louisiana
colonists was a patois, a cor-
rupted provincial French.
Among them were a few carpenters, tailors, stone-masons,
boat-builders, and blacksmiths, the latter capable of repairing a
firelock or a rifle.
The city of New Orleans was founded in 171 7 and rapidly grew
in size and importance. For many years a "rude semblance of a
Court" was maintained and social amusements of various sorts
could be engaged in, even duelling and brawling, for some of the
Louisiana colonists were of noble birth and many were military
officers. "All the people shared alike the harmless merriment and
* Discovery of the Old Northwest and Its Settlement by the French, by James Baldwin.
3
Figure id.
Jesuit Missionaries.
^V
36 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
frolic of the carnival. All, too, observed the self-denying ordinances
of the Lenten season which terminated in the festival of Easter."
The treaty of Paris, in 1764, gave to the English Government
the Illinois and Louisiana colonies as well as the province of Acadia,
in Nova Scotia,* originally peopled by Normandy peasants whose
pathetic story Longfellow has made so familiar to us. More than
six hundred of the Acadian exiles were sent to Louisiana, where they
had at least the comfort of hearing their native language, and where
the customs and pursuits were more congenial than in the northern
colonies. The quaint costumes and the peculiar head-dresses worn
by Normandy peasants at the end of the seventeenth century are
minutely described in Mrs. Stothard's "Letters written during a
tour through Normandy, Brittany and other parts of France,"
illustrated in colour by her husband. This book was published in
London in 18 18, and is the earliest authority on the subject I have
found. The descriptions are not quoted here, as there is not any
evidence that very elaborate peasant dress was ever worn in . the
American colonies, f
* Thus named by a company of Scots who planted a settlement there in 1622.
t For Spanish and French costumes, see Racinet's Le Costume Historique and Kretch-
mer's Trachten der Volker.
PART I
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
THE ENGLISH COLONIES
IN
VIRGINIA, MARYLAND, THE BARBADOES,
AND THE CAROLINAS
I 607-1 700
During the Reigns of
James I, Charles I and II, James II, and
William and Mary
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 41
TOBACCO
Tobacco is but an Indian weed,
Grows green in the morn, cut down at eve.
It shows our decay,
We are but clay.
Think of this when you smoke tobacco!
The pipe that is so lily white,
Wherein so many take deUght,
It breaks with a touch,
Man's life is such;
Think of this when you take tobacco!
The pipe that is so foul within.
It shows man's soul is stained with sin;
It doth require
To be purged with fire;
Think of this when you smoke tobacco!
The dust that from that pipe doth fall,
It shows we are nothing but dust at all.
For we came from dust,
And return we must;
Think of this when you smoke tobacco !
The ashes that are left behind.
Do serve to put us all in mind
That into dust
Return we must;
Think of this when you take tobacco !
The smoke that doth so high ascend,
Shows that man's life must have an end;
The vapour's gone,
Man's Hfe is done;
Think of this when you take tobacco !
— Thomas D'Urfey, 17 19.
The English in Virginia, Maryland, the
Barbadoes, and the Carolinas
I 607-1 700
Figure ii.
AMESTOWN in Virginia was the first_actual
settlement of the EngHsh people in America.
The Virginia Company, of which Sir Edwin
Sandys was President, was formed under the
patent of King James I. The first ships sent
over arrived in 1607, at the mouth of the James
River, where a fortified village was built, and
trade established with the surrounding Indians.
One hundred colonists came in the first expedi-
tion, a great number of them being men of
quality. As Captain John Smi th, in his delightful "History of the
Virginia Settlement," puts it:
"We had far too many gentlemen adventurers amongst us, and
of a necessity some of these must needs be not quite all we could
wish as reliable companions. Out of one hundred colonists there are
fifty-two gentlemen adventurers besides Master Robert Hunt, the
Preacher, and Masters Thomas Wotton and William Wilkinson,
the Chirurgeons. We had four carpenters, twelve labourers, a black-
smith, a sailor, a bricklayer, a mason, a tailor and a drummer, four
boys and some others."
43
44
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
The Company in London advised each emigrant to provide him-
self with the following articles of dress :
A Monmouth cap,
Three shirts,
One suit of canvas,
One pair of garters,
Four pairs of shoes.
Three_fal]iii^Jtiands, ^"\^
One waistcoat,
One suit of frieze,
One suit of broadcloth,
Three pairs of silk stockings,
One dozen pairs of points.
^U^7.
JSjU.
From original prints in this book of Captain John Smith's, we
get the costume of the gentleman adventurer, similar in style, of
course, to the garments
worn by men of rank in
England during the reign of
James I. A portrait of Sir
Edwin Sandys, or Sandes
as it is sometimes written, is
given in Figure 13, show-
ing the prevailing dress
of an English gentleman,
a brocade doublet, a lace-
trimmed ruff, and a pointed
beard. The strange fashion
which was conspicuous at
King James's Court, of padding and stuffing the breeches, called
farthingale breeches on account of the resemblance to that most
disfiguring but popular article of fashion worn by women in the
reigns of Elizabeth and James I, was probably followed in a modified
form by these gentlemen adventurers, as the padding was supposed
to be a protection against rapiers and arrows.
Stays were also worn by men in those days beneath long-waisted
doublets; and ruffs too were used, although they gradually dimin-
ished in size and stiffness (Figures 11, 15, and 21).
Figure 12.
> ; % • • • •
Figure 13.
Figure 14.
i-IGURK 15.
Figure 16.
45
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
47
Figure 17.
The Farthingale.
In the portraits of the Earl and Countess of Somerset,* so often
reproduced, may be seen the costumes worn by the nobility of this
time, but there were no radical changes in
English costume from 1550, the middle of Eliza-
beth's reign, until the accession of Charles I
in 1625. If any change of fashion appeared in
the early days of life at Jamestown, the tailor
of the Company was probably responsible for
it, and the old adage, "Cut your coat according
to your cloth," was very likely his inspiration. .
The present of a cloak of raccoon skins from King Powhattan to
Captain John Smith must have been very acceptable as, according to
Stith, the first winter was very damp and cold.
The first women to come to Virginia
were Mrs. Forrest and her maid Anne Bur-
roughs, who, soon after her arrival, married
John Laydon. This was the first English
wedding on American soil.f Figure 21
represents the style of dress worn by Mrs.
Forrest. Her maid's costume was of similar
cut, but of linsey-woolsey, with cuffs and
falling band of plain linen.
As early as 1621 the Company resolved
to establish a free school for children. The
costumes of children given in Figures 18
and 23 are taken from a picture of a
Dame's School in England by A. de Bosse,
1602-1676.
In 1622 the College, afterward known as "William and Mary,"
was first talked of, but it was in this year that occurred the horrible
^».»,
A.lt'B:
Figure 18.
Ordinary Dress of a Boy
at this Period, 1 602-1 676
(from a Contemporary Print).
* Fairholt's History of English Costume.
t History of the First Discovery and Settlement of Virginia, by William Stith.
48 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
massacre of the English by the Indians which sadly reduced their
numbers. However, the survivors struggled valiantly on, and gradu-
ally comfortable houses were built, even for the labouring men,
while the houses of the people of quality could boast of many con-
veniences.
In 1624 an attempt was made to produce silk from the mulberry
trees which flourished in Virginia, and skilled workmen were sent
over by Nicholas Farrar from France to raise silkworms, but the
effort was not successful.
King James died in 1625 and the accession of Charles I proved
a blessing to the Virginia Colony, for the new king left the affairs
of government to Sir Edw in_Sandys and the Virginia House of Bur-
gesses which held its meetings in the church at Jamestown. The
Representatives coming in barges from their plantations along the
river were usually accompanied by their wives and daughters, who
embraced these opportunities to show off their fine apparel (Figures
20, 21, 32, 33, 35, 36). â– ;^ery gay and elaborate the finery of that
period seems, even from our twentieth century standpoint.
In the body of the church, facing the choir, sat the Burgesses in
their best attire, with starched ruffs or stiff neckbands (Figure 22)
and doublets of silk or velvet in bright colours. All sat with their hats
on in imitation of the time-honoured custom of the House of Com-
mons (Figures 15, 19, and 22).* These same Burgesses, however, did
not approve of too general a display of fine clothing, it seems, for
among many astute laws passed by them was the following, to
prevent extravagance in dress: "Be it enacted that for all public
contributions every unmarried man must be assessed in church
according to his own apparel, and every married man must be
assessed according to his own and his wife's apparel."
The years from 1625 to 1642 were marked with great prosperity
and progress, and when Berkeley was sent over with the title of English
* Old Virginia and her Neighbours.
4fuu^
49
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 51
Governor, the inhabitants of Virginia numbered eighteen thousand
EngHsh and three hundred negroes.
At that time London fashions were strictly followed by the quality,
and seem to have been not only the chief amusement of the women,
but matter of great moment to both sexes (Figures 13, 14, 19, 20,
2>^, ZZ^ 35. 36).
The fashionable costume in England during the reign of Charles
I, made familiar to us by the magic brush of Vandyke, was pictur-
esque in the extreme.
>/ A gentleman of those days wore a doublet of satin or velvet with
large loose sleeves slashed up the front (Figures 45, 46); the collar
covered by a falling band of richest point-lace with the peculiar
edging now called Vandyke (Figures 14 and 16), and a short cloak
worn carelessly over one shoulder. Bands were called " peccadilles "
when trimmed with this pointed lace, so fashionable in the middle
of the seventeenth century, and it is interesting to read that the fash-
ionable London thoroughfare, Piccadilly, gets its name from a shop
where ''peccadilles" were made and sold in the reign of Charles I.
Under slashed doublets, loose shirts of Holland linen were worn.
(See portrait of Sir George Percy [Figure 29], second Governor of
the Virginia Colony.) The breeches, fringed or pointed, met the
tops of the wide boots (Figures 51, 55), which were ruffled with lace,
lawn, or soft leather. A broad-leafed Flemish beaver hat, with a
rich hatband and plume of feathers (Figure 19), was set on one side
of the head, and a Spanish rapier hung from a most magnificent
baldrick or sword-belt worn sash-wise over the right shoulder. In
troublous times the doublet of silk or velvet was frequently exchanged
for a buff coat (Figures 83, 84, 85, 86, 87) which was richly laced,
sometimes embroidered with gold or silver, and enriched by a broad
silk or satin scarf tied in a large bow either behind or over the hip,
in which case, the short cloak was perhaps dispensed with; in some
instances the buff jerkin without sleeves was worn over the doublet
52
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
(Figure 87). The beard was worn "very peaked with small up-
turned mustaches; the hair long on the neck."
George Sandys, the celebrated traveller, a younger brother of the
President of the Company in London, was sent over to Jamestown
in the capacity of treasurer. During his stay in the colony, he trans-
lated ten books of Ovid. This was the first poetical achievement in
America. The portrait of him (Figure 14) shows the slashed doublet
and the Vandyke collar of this reign.
x/ A gentlewoman of the same time wore V
a long soft skirt, with a low-cut bodice
finished with square tabs about the waist
(Figures 20, 32, 49), full sleeves a little
below the elbow, with soft ruffles of rich
lace, a wide collar of the same lace being
worn over the shoulders but allowing the
throat and neck to show. Soft breast-knots
of ribbon were also much worn. The hair
was usually curled over the brow, falling to
the shoulders in rather tight ringlets, and ar-
ranged in a knot at the back (Figures 20, 73).
Earrings were very popular in England
in Vandyke's time, not only for women but
for men, as we may see by the numerous
specimens in his portraits. In his famous
painting of Charles I in the National Gallery in London, the King is
represented with a pear-shaped pearl-drop in one ear. This was the
most advantageous way of displaying a pearl of more than usual
beauty, but the origin of the fashion of piercing the lobe of the ear
has been ascribed by many authorities to the common belief that it
was a cure for weak eyes. Tradition also associates the fashion with
navigators and seamen. Probably it was thought to be a safe way
of carrying precious stones found in perilous adventures by land and
^3S.
Figure 23.
Ordinary Dress of a Little
Girl of the Period 1602-1676
(from a Contemporary Print).
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
53
sea, but there is not any evidence that earrings were at any time a
fashion favoured by men in the Colonies of America.
Mr. Bruce, in his "Economic History of Virginia," remarks: "The
incongruity of shining apparel with the rude surroundings of new
settlements in the wilderness does not seem to have jarred upon the
perceptions of the population except so far as it implied an unnecessary
expenditure, and this view was only taken when the resources of the
Colony were seriously impaired.
"About the middle of the century
a law was passed prohibiting the
introduction of silk in pieces except
for hoods or scarfs, or of silver, gold
or bone lace, or of ribbons wrought
in gold or silver. All goods of this
character brought into the colonies
were confiscated and then exported."
v' The typical workingman's cos-
timie of this period consisted of loose
breeches and jerkin of canvas or
frieze; hose of coarse wool, shoes of
tanned leather tied in front; hat of
thrums or felt. "The carpenters, the
labourers, the blacksmith, the mason,
and the bricklayer" of the Virginia
Company were in all probability
dressed in this way. The tailor and the drummer may have worn
their breeches fastened at the knee with points, and all these useful
members of the Company wore aprons of dressed leather when at
work. Mariners, according to contemporary authorities, wore a
similar costume (Figure 24).
Randle Holmes, another contemporary authority, gives the follow-
ing picture of a countryman in 1660, showing that the hat, doublet.
Figure 24.
An English Mariner (from a Contem-
porary Print).
54
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
and short breeches of the reign of James I were worn in country
districts of England as late as the Restoration; the short breeches
probably being of leather and the hose of stout woolen clotli.
Bishop Coleman tells us that in the Jamestown Settlement
"church services, according to the English ritual, were held daily by
the Reverend Robert Hunt, formerly rector
of a living in Kent. Soon after the arrival
of the Colonists sent over by the Virginia
Company, in 1607, an altar was erected
under the shade of the forest trees, and
the emigrants gladly attended the cele-
bration of the Holy Communion. English
churchmen came to Massachusetts in 1623;
to Maryland in 1629;. Lord Baltimore
wrote that four clergymen of the Church
of England were in his province with
decent maintenance in 1676." Surplices
were very expensive in the Colonies; 5000
pounds of tobacco was the price paid for
three of them in Virginia, and probably
they were not available in every parish.
Regular services were held in New Eng-
land in 1638, in South Carolina in 1660,
in New York in 1674, in New Jersey in
1678, and in Pennsylvania in 1694.*
These dates are quoted to show that in the English Colonies, under
English rule, tjie clergy wore, as in England, the customary dress of
the period: a black coat (ancestor of the cassock), full breeches to
the knee, silk hose fastened with points, a soft brimmed hat, and
plain stock or falling band for outdoor wear; the white surplice with
bands and a close cap of black silk or velvet in church. Bishops
* History of the American Church.
1^60
Figure 25.
Countryman in Doublet (from a
print by Randle Holmes, 1660).
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
55
ordinarily wore the usual full-sleeved white robes with black stoles.
Out-of-doors long full cloaks were worn universally for protection from
the weather.
Figure 26.
Soldier in Cuirass and Morion (from an Old English Print, Seventeenth Century).
Hard, indeed, must have been the lives of the pioneer clergy of
every denomination in America before 1700, and in remote parts
^
56 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA.
they were probably constrained to wear whatever they could have
made at home. The general outlines of the accepted dress of the
times, given here, are based upon careful historical research. Further
details will be found in the authorities quoted.
Close-fitting black caps were worn habitually by the clergymen
of all denominations. Instead of the white surplice, the black Geneva
or preaching gown was adopted by Non-conformists, Presbyterian
ministers and Puritan divines in all the Colonies.
The Roman Catholic Church was represented chiefly by the
Jesuits, a missionary priesthood, who habitually adopted the dress
of the people with whom they sojourned. Maryland was the active
centre of Catholicism in the Colonies. When Father Greaton of the
Jesuit Order was sent from there to Philadelphia and founded the
Parish of St. Joseph in that city, we are told that he entered the
Province of Penn in the dress of a Quaker.* But this did not happen
until 1 73 1.
<;^^^Maryland was settled in 1633 by Lord Baltimore, whose ambition
was to found a commonwealth in the Colonies where Roman Catholics
might escape the oppressive legislation to which they were subjected
in England. He brought with him his wife, children, and many
servants, and following the English customs of living, naturally brought
over the prevailing costumes of his day.
That armour was sometimes worn by the Colonists, ample proof
is given in the early records. In the archives of the first colony of
Jamestown it is stated, among the proceedings of the Virginia Com-
pany, that
Brigandines, alias plate coats 100
Jacks of mail 40
Jerkins or shirts of mail 400
Skulls 2000
Calivers and other pieces, belts, halberts, swords,
* History of Old St. Joseph's, Philadelphia, by Martin I.J. Griffin.
V/ \
t
Figure 27.
Figure 28.
Figure 29
Figure 30.
57
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
59
were sent out from London upon request of the Burgesses, July 17,
1622. In the Historical Society at Richmond, portions of a steel
vambrace are preserved which were dug up at Jamestown in 1861
(Figure 30).
At the time of the first Colony in America, heavy plate armour
had gone out of use, and back and breast plates with overlapping
FiGXTRE 31.
A Doublet of Satin Trimmed with a Narrow Galloon and Points of the Same Colour with
Padded Lining, 1600-25 (^^ign of James I).
tuilles or tassetts to protect the thighs, and helmets for the head,
were generally worn. Whole suits of armour may have been worn
on occasions, but so great had been the improvement in firearms
that armour was no longer a safeguard, according to Fairholt, and
in the time of Charles I, stout buff coats thick enough to resist a
6o HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
sword thrust, under a cuirass and a gorget (Figures 88, 89, and 90)
affording special protection for the throat and chest, a helmet of
metal, and breeches and boots of tough leather, formed the customary
uniform of the soldier. The armour of a mounted officer, judging
from effigies on old English tombs and from prints of the day, was
more formidable, the arms and legs being encased in steel, at least
all that part of the body not hidden by the saddle. Pictures of
buff coats (Figures 8t„ 84, 85, 86, and 87), and drawings of a
pikeman and a musketeer are given (Figures 26 and 78).
There is an anonymous pamphlet called "A Perfect Description
of Virginia," printed in Force's Tracts, which shows the inducements
set forth in England to bring people to the Colony. The great ad-
vantages of the country, its resources, agricultural and even educa-
tional, are announced in glowing terms, and one citation at least bears
directly upon the history of costume. In describing the fine house
of one, Sir John Harvey, the author says: "He sows yearly stores
of hemp and flax, and causes it to be spun, he keeps weavers, and
hath a tan house, causes leather to be dressed, hath eight shoemakers
employed in their trade."
After the execution of King Charles I, a great many of the
Cavaliers of England sought a haven of refuge in Virginia and
Maryland. They were followed by many other representatives of
distinguished families who could not brook the rule of Cromwell.
We realize how luxurious life in Virginia had already become for
the prosperous, when we read that Governor Berkeley (against whom
Bacon rebelled in 1675) retired to his rural estate of "Green Spring"
near Jamestown from 1652 to 1660, where he had an orchard of more
than two thousand fruit trees — apples, pears, peaches, and apricots —
and a stable of seventy fine horses. Here he lived in ease, entertain-
ing Cavalier guests and drinking healths to King Charles, until re-
called to Jamestown as Governor. In 1661 he went to London and
remained a year. While there he saw the performance of his play,
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 6i
"The Lost Lady," described by Pepys in his diary. This play con-
tained the following mention of the costumes of the day:
" Observe with me how in that deep band,
Short cloak, and his great boots, he Ipoks
Three stories high, and his head is the
Garret where he keeps nothing but hsts of
Horse matches and some designs for his next clothes."
In the first part of the reign of Charles II, doublets were worn ^
much shorter and opened over a Holland shirt, which hung over the .
waistband of the loose breeches, the latter as well as the large full
sleeves were ornamented with points and "ribbands" (Figures 29 and
68). The falling collar was also of lace. With this costume a high-
crowned hat with plume of feathers was sometimes worn (Figure 19).
A year or so later the fashion of petticoat breeches, trimmed with
"many rows of loops of ribbon overlapping like shingles," came into
vogue for a short time (Figure 68). A certain Captain Creedon ap-
peared in the street of Boston with this fantastic garb, much to the
astonishment of the pedestrians, we are told. Probably this particu-
lar style was more popular with the gayer Colonists in ^^rginia and
the Carolinas, who kept in touch with the Court fashions.
Later in the same reign (Charles II) "the doublet was worn much
longer with sleeves to the elbows, finished with hanging ribbands
from under which the ruffled sleeves of the shirt hung out." Thus »^
the doublet became transformed into a coat, and in an inventory
of apparel provided for the King in 1679, a complete suit of one
material is mentioned as "coat and breeches." Neck-cloths were
worn toward the close of this reign.
For a few years extending into the reign of James II, a long coat
reaching to the knees and closely buttoned down the front came into
fashion. Full breeches hanging in full folds over the garters were
worn with this style of coat (Figures 137 and 138).
"The gowns of the ladies of the English Court at this period
62 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
were cut very low, with slashed sleeves, and were trimmed with lace
and jewels"* (Figures 20, 32 and 49). Long gloves reaching to the
elbow were worn with low cut dresses (Figures ^^ and 35).
The fashion of wearing patches came in towards the end of the
reign of Charles I, and continued in vogue until George Ill's day.
They are mentioned in 1650. "Our ladies have lately entertained a
vain custom of spotting their faces out of affectation of a mole, to
set off their beauty such as Venus had; and it is well if one black
patch will serve to make their faces remarkable, for some fill their
faces full of them, varied into all manner of shapes." Patches are"^
associated with the fashion of powdering the hair (i 720-1 778), but
when Mrs. Pepys was permitted by her husband to wear a patch
we have his word for it that she looked "very pretty." It "is not
likely that the extreme of this fashion, as described in Bulwer's satirical
lines, was seen in the Colonies :
" Her patches are of every cut,
For pimples or for scars.
Here's all the wandering planets' signs
And some of the fixed stars;
Already gummed to make them stick
They need no other sky."
A seventeenth century author gives the following concise definition
of the muff, which figures so frequently in English portraits of the
day: "A fur worn in winter in which to put the hands to keep
them warm. Muffs were formerly only for women: at the present
day they are carried by men. The finest muffs are made of martin,
the common of miniver. The country muffs of the cavaliers are made
of otter and of tiger. A woman puts her nose in her muff to hide
herself. A muff-dog is a little dog which ladies can carry in their
muffs." It is not easy to imagine the pioneer men of the Colonies
carrying muffs; in fact even a Patroon would have found one sadly
* Book of Costume by a Lady of Rank. (London, 1846.)
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 63
inconvenient in the days when "a musket with six shoots of powder"
was his constant companion. Towards the end of the century, how-
ever, when the peaceful days of William and Mary's reign afforded
a life of comparative luxury, the fashion at its height in England
was followed in the Colonies by men as well as by women, with whom
muffs have ever been deservedly popular (Figure 36).
Mr. Fiske, speaking of Virginia hospitality at that early date,
suggests that "in the time of Bacon's Rebellion (1675) your host
would have appeared, perhaps, in a coat and breeches of olive
plush or d^rk red broadcloth, richly embroidered waistcoat, shirt
of holland,' long silk stockings, silver buttons and shoe buckles, I u^
lace ruffles about neck and wrists, and his head encumbered with a
flowing wig; while the lady of the house might have worn a crimson
satin bodice trimmed with point-lace, a black tabby petticoat, and ^
silk hose with shoes of fine leather, gallooned. Her lace head-dress
would be secured with a gold bodkin, and she would be likely to
wear earrings, a pearl necklace, finger rings set with rubies or dia-
monds, and to carry a fan."
This description may be very nearly correct of the man's dress
in regard to colour and material, but the style of the coat described
is of a later period. To the feminine mind a few items are needed to
complete the costume of the lady. For instance, all the pictures of
the time show the bodice and skirt of the same material, up to the
reign of James II ; after that a long skirt still matching the bodice
was looped over a gay petticoat sometimes richly trimmed with
lace or gimp (Figures i, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 32, 33, 35, and 36).
The Barbadoes and Carolina settlements date from 1650. The
Colonists of these Southern ports, being mostly Cavaliers who had
seen something of Court life in London, very soon surrounded them-
selves with comforts and luxuries unknown to the first-comers in Vir-
ginia. We read that the Barbadoes Colony resembled a litde Court
in itself, the planters maintaining large households and many slaves.
* Old Virginia and Her Neighbours.
64 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
There was frequent intercourse with the settlements in Virginia and
Maryland. The brocade gown in the frontispiece was the property of v
an English lady who came to Barbadoes when James II was on the
throne of England. Figure 104 depicts a gentleman of the same date.
The following description of the articles of dress is quoted from
Mr. Bruce's "Economic History of Virginia," but may be reasonably
considered typical of all English Colonies in America from 1660 to 1700:
— *^'The shirt was made of holland, blue linen, lockram, dowlas
and canvas, according to the quality desired; holland representing
the most costly and canvas the least expensive. The buttons used
on the shirt were either of silver or pewter, and in many cases were
carefully gilded.
— "The stockings were either of silk, woolen or cotton thread,
worsted or yarn. The shoes worn by men were made of ordinary
leather, or they were of the sort known as French Falls (Figures 19,
51, 53, and 55). The shoe buckles were manufactured of brass,
steel or silver. There are many references to boots, the popular
footwear of the planters, who were accustomed to pass much of
their time on horseback (Figures 50, 54, and 57).
"""^The periwig was worn in the latter part of the century (Figures
134, 135, 140, and 141). In 1689 William Byrd forwarded one to
his merchant in London with instructions to have it altered.
'^""The covering for the heads of men consisted of the Monrnouth
cap, the felt, the beaver or castor, and the straw hat, occasionally
with a steeple crown.
""^ "The neck-cloth, or cravat, was of blue linen, calico, dowlas,
â– muslin or the finest holland. The band or falling collar was made
either of linen or lace, in keeping with the character of the suit
(Figures 16 and 82).
^ "The material of the coat ranged from broadcloth, camlet,
fustian, drugget, and serge, which became less expensive with the
progress of the century, to cotton, kersey, frieze, canvas, and buckskin.
65
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 67
When of broadcloth, it was lined with calico or coarse linen. There
are numerous references to the stuff coat, and the smock, and to the
serge or linen jacket (Figure 48).
—-"The outer garment used in riding was usually a cloak of camlet.
The buttons of the coat and waistcoat were made of various materials,
from silk thread to brass and pewter, silver, gimp and mohair.
. , "Over the ordinary coat, a great-coat of frieze was worn in
cold weather, or, on special occasions, a substitute was found in a
cloak of blue or scarlet silk.
— "Waistcoats in 1679 were made of dimity, cotton or drugget, flannel
or penistone, of a great variety of colours, white, black, and blue being
the most popular.
— "The breeches for dress occasions were of plush or broadcloth;
for ordinary wear, of linen, common ticking, canvas or leather.
There are references in inventories of the period to serge breeches,
lined with linen or worsted, with thread buttons, and also to cal-
limanco breeches with hair buttons. Occasionally the whole suit was
of plush, broadcloth, kersey or canvas, or the coat was made of
drugget, and the waistcoat and breeches of stufE cloth. Olive col-
oured suits were very popular.
=,— "Handkerchiefs were of silk, lace, or blue linen. Gloves were
made of yarn, or of tanned ox-, lamb-, buck-, dog-, or sheepskin, and
were of local manufacture. The hands of children were kept warm
by mittens."
— It was the habit of the wealthy planters to have even their plainest
and simplest articles of clothing made in England. Mr. Fitzhugh,
of Stafford County, Virginia, instructed his merchant in London, in
1697, to send him two suits of an ordinary character, one for use in
winter and the other in summer. The exact measurements for the
shoes and stockings needed were to be guessed at, and the only
direction given as to the two hats ordered was that they should
be of the largest size.
The lists sent out to England show that costly garments were
68
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
\
imported for the planters' wives. Many of the gowns worn in Vir-
ginia must have been as handsome as those worn by the women of
the same class in England. There are numerous allusions to silk
and flowered gowns, to bodices of velvet brocade and satin, trimmed
with lace (Figures 32 and 49).
—^Petticoats were of serge, flannel, or tabby, a kind of coloured
silk cloth. They were also made of printed linen or dimity and
trimmed with silk or silver lace. An outfit of gown, petticoat, and
green stockings, composed of
woolen materials, is frequently
mentioned in the inventories.
" For outdoor wear, women of
all ranks wore hoods and mantles.
The hoods were made of camlet,
sarsenet, or velvet, often trimmed
with fur (Figures 34, 35, 36, 40,
67, 69, 128, 129, and 144). The
mantles of silk (Figure 128) or
tippets of fur (Figures 47, 69,
and 129) were worn over the
shoulders.
Hose varied very much in
colour, being white, scarlet, or
black. They were held in place
by silk garters.
Shoes of the finest quality were either laced or gallooned (Figure
36). Wooden shoes with wooden heels were also worn.
Aprons were of muslin, silk, serge, and blue duffel (Figures 35
and 144). Small fans, many of which were richly ornamented, were
favourite items of dress in the toilets of planters' wives (Figure 20),
and silver and gilt stomachers were not unknown. Perfumed powders
were imported and used in the English Colonies.
T^.OTnfcin de Hooftflft. J6/3.
Figure 34.
Back View of Outdoor Dress (from a Con-
temporary Print).
f:
r <
-■>,Was^tif»»i!«il!SS^«»B?^
69
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 71
About 1661, we are told, a young English lady set out for Vir-
ginia, furnished with the following articles of clothing:
"A scarf, white sarsenet and a ducape hood, a white flannel petti-
coat, two green aprons, three pairs of gloves, a long riding scarf, a
mask and a pair of shoes."
"The wardrobe of a rich planter's wife in Virginia, Mrs. Sarah
Willoughby, consisted of a red, a blue, and a black silk petticoat, a
petticoat of India silk and a worsted prunella, a striped linen and a , i^X
calico petticoat, a black silk gown, a scarlet waistcoat with silver
lace, a white knit waistcoat, a striped stuff jacket, a worsted pru-
nella mantle, a sky-coloured satin bodice, a pair of red paragon
bodices, three fine and three coarse hoUand aprons, seven handker-
chiefs, and two hoods. The whole was valued at fourteen pounds
and nineteen shillings.
"The wardrobe of another Virginia lady, Mrs. Frances Pritchard,
was quite as extensive. It included an olive-coloured silk petti-
coat, petticoats of silver and flowered tabby, of velvet, and of white
striped dimity, a printed calico gown lined with blue silk, a white
striped dimity, a black silk waistcoat, a pair of scarlet sleeves, a
pair of holland sleeves with ruffles, a Flanders lace band, one
cambric and three holland aprons, five cambric handkerchiefs, and
I several pairs of green stockings."*
— Aprons were at least on one occasion conspicuous articles of dress.
Although some historians discredit the episode, in a history of cos-
tume we can hardly omit the story of Bacon's very ungallant behav-
iour to the ladies of Jamestown, whom he compelled to stand in a
white-aproned row to screen his men while they worked on the en-
trenchments, as a protection from the Burgesses, who could not shoot
without injury to the women.' We may at least safely conclude that
every woman of consequence was expected to have a white apron
in her wardrobe.
* Bruce's Economic History of Virginia.
72 . HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
s=-The favourite ornaments of women at this time were pearl neck-
laces, gold pendants and earrings, and rings of various kinds. It
was customary to leave mourning rings to a large number of relatives
and friends. One lady, Mrs. Elizabeth Digges, in her will desired
that eight should be distributed among the members of her intimate
circle. A gentleman of Middlesex bequeathed twenty-five pounds
sterling for the purchase of rings of the same character; sixteen
pounds of this sum were to be expended in such as would cost one
guinea apiece.
A rich planter of Lower Norfolk County, at his death, was in
possession of "a sapphire set in gold, one ring with a blue stone,
another with a green stone, and another still with a yellow stone,
two hollow wrought rings, a diamond ring with several sparks, a
mourning ring, a beryl set in silver, and an amber necklace."
As real pearls were very costly, a Frenchman, named Jacques,
invented a substitute for them in this century (seventeenth). He
had observed that the water in which small fish, called "ablettes,"
had been washed, contained a quantity of silvery particles, and by
filling hollow blown glass beads with this sediment, he succeeded in
producing an admirable imitation ; but about twenty thousand white-
bait were required to supply one pound of this essence of pearls.*
"•- — Small gold and silver bodkins were used by the wives of the
planters for the purpose of keeping the head-dress in place.
^^''-' Plantation life, even toward the end of the century, gave but few
opportunities for display. There were no towns where, as at Wil-
liamsburg in the following century, the leading families might gather
at certain seasons and show off their fashionable costumes. The
church of the parish was the social centre of each community. It
was there that fine clothes could be exhibited on Sundays, while at
weddings and other festal meetings, the most costly suits and dresses
were worn.
* History of Fashion in France.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
73
The store, which every planter of importance maintained on his
place, was a notable feature of colonial life. A list of the articles
for sale in one of those rural establishments is almost as varied as
the advertisement of one of our city department stores to-day. For
instance, the Hubbard store in York County in 1667 contained:
Lockram, canvas, dowlas, Scotch cloth, blue linen, oznaburg,
cotton, holland serge, kersey and flannel in bales, full suits for adults
and youths; bodices, hoods and laces
for women ; shoes, gloves, hose, cravats,
handkerchiefs, hats and other articles
of dress. Hammers, hatchets, chisels,
augers, locks, staples, nails, sickles, bel-
lows, saws, knives, flesh forks, por-
ringers, saucepans, frying-pans, grid-
irons, tongs, shovels, hoes, iron-pots,
tables, physic, wool-cards, gimlets, com-
passes, needles, stirrups, looking-glasses,
candlesticks, candles, funnels, 25 pounds
of raisins, 100 gallons of brandy, 20 gal-
lons of wine, 10 gallons of aqua vitce.
The contents of this store was
valued at ;^6i4 sterling, a sum which
represented about $15,000 in our present
currency.
Mr. Fiske says: "One can imagine how dazzling to the youthful
eyes must have been the miscellaneous variety of desirable things.
Not only were the manufactured articles pretty sure to have come
from England, but everything else, to be saleable, must be labelled
English, insomuch that fanciers used to sell the songsters unknown
to England, if they sang particularly well, as English mocking birds."
It was the habit of the early Virginia planters from time to time
to purchase silver plate in England. This they looked upon as a
Figure 37.
A Peddler (from an Old Print).
74
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
M^
sort of wealth which could never lose its value, and pieces of such
plate engraved with the crest of the original owner, have in many
cases been handed down as family heirlooms, even to the present
day. Candlesticks and snuffers, castors for sugar, pepper, and
mustard, saltcellars and beakers are frequently mentioned in the
wills of the latter part of the seventeenth century.
In one instance dishes weighing eighty and ninety ounces apiece
and a case containing a dozen silver-hafted knives and a dozen
silver-hafted forks are specified. Mrs. Eliza-
beth Digges bequeathed two hundred and sixty
ounces of silver plate to her friends and rela-
tives. Specimens of old silver, etc., are shown
in Figure 159.
We read also of the following musical
instruments among the household goods of the
richer planters: Virginals, hand-lyres, cornets,
violins, recorders, flutes, and hautboys.
In the kitchen, various utensils were in use,
being made of brass, tin, pewter, wood, clay, and copper.
Another feature of colonial life was the itinerant peddler, who
travelled from plantation to plantation carrying the latest fashions
and, oftentimes, the latest piece of gossip. He was always sure of
a welcome from the people of every class, from the mistress and
master at the hall fireside to the maids and men in the servants'
quarters, for his pack contained, like that of Autolycus, wares to
suit all needs and tastes.
Figure 37^.
Drawn from an Origi-
nal Monmouth Cap at the
Rolls Hall, Monmouth,
Wales.
" Lawn as white as driven snow;
Cypress black as e'er was crow ;
Gloves as sweet as damask roses;
Masks for faces and for noses ;
Pins and poking-sticks of steel;
What maids lack from head to heel;
Come buy of me, come; come buy, come buy;
Buy lads, or else your lasses cry: come, buy."
Bugle-bracelet, necklace-amber,
Perfume for a lady's chamber;
Golden quoifs and stomachers,
For my lads to give their dears;
75
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 77
There is not much to be said about dress among the American
Indians. However, the costume of the Queen of the Pamunkeys, who
accompanied her husband, Totto Potto Moi, to a conference with
the Enghsh in Virginia, and who was a lady of some distinction, is
worthy of description. She wore a turban made of a wide plait
of black and white wampum and her robe was of deerskin, with
the hair on the outside, ornamented (from the shoulders to the feet)
with a twisted fringe six inches deep. An effective but rather an un-
comfortable dress for the season, as this conference took place in
May (1677).
The King of the Pamunkeys was afterward killed in fighting with
the English under Colonel Edward Hill. His wife, the Queen, made
an appeal to the House of Burgesses, whereupon Charles II sent to
her, in recognition of her husband's services, a crown consisting of
a red velvet cap with a silver plate as a frontlet, to which were
attached many chains. During the latter part of the year 1800,
the Pamunkeys determined to move westward, and, being under
stress of weather, and, also, it is supposed, lacking food, came to
Mr. Arthur Morson, who gave them shelter and protection for a time
on his plantation. Upon leaving, they expressed their gratitude
by presenting their benefactor with this crown, their greatest treas-
ure, which still existed in the original shape. The cap becoming in
time moth-eaten, the chains lost and scattered, the Administrator
of the Morson Estate sold the frontlet to the Association for the
Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, and it was placed in the Histori-
cal Society's rooms for safe-keeping (Figure 27).
For descriptions and pictures of the native Indians, the reader
is referred to Schoolcraft's exhaustive history, which illustrates the
life and customs of the various tribes in North America from the
landing of Columbus to the middle of the nineteenth century.*
* History of the Indian Tribes of the United States, by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, LL.D.
THE ENGLISH COLONIES
IN
MASSACHUSETTS, CONNECTICUT, NEW
HAMPSHIRE, MAINE, AND
RHODE ISLAND
1620-1700
During the Reigns of
James I, Charles I, Charles II, James II, and
William and Mary
'A DOSEN OF POINTS, SENT BY A GENTLEWOMAN TO HER LOVER AS A NEWE
YEARE'S Gifte."
As I on a New Yeare's day-
Did walcke amidst the streate,
My restless eyes for you my hart,
Did seke a fayring mete.
I sercht throughout the faire
But nothing could I fynde:
No, no, of all ther was not one
That would content my mynde.
But all the boothes were filled
With fancyes fond attyre,
And trifling toyes were set to sale,
For them that would requyre.
Then to myself quoth I,
What meanes theise childish knacks;
Is all the faire for children made.
Or fooles that babies lackes ?
Are theise the goodly gifts,
The new yeare to beginne;
Which friends present unto their friends,
Their fayth and love to winne?
I se I came in vayne.
My labour ail is lost,
I will departe and kepe my purse,
From making any cost.
But se my happy chaunce,
Whilest I did hast away;
Dame Vertue doth display her booth,
My hasty feete to stay.
I joyfuU of the sight,
Did preace unto the place,
To se the tricke and trimmed tent,
For such a ladye's grace.
And after I had viewed
Eache thing within her seate,
8i
82 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
I found a knotte of peerlesse points
Beset with posyes neate.
Theise points in number twelve,
Did shew themselves to be:
The sence whereof by poet's skil,
I will declare to the.
1. With meate before the set,
Suffice but nature's scant;
2. Be sure thy tongue at table tyme,
Noe sober talke doe want.
3. Let word, let thought, and dede.
In honest wise agree:
4. And loke the pore in tyme of nede,
Thy helping hand may see.
5. When foes invade the realme.
Then shew thy might and strength:
6. Tell truth in place wher thou dost come
For falshed failes at length.
7. Be fast and firm to friende.
As thou wouldst him to be:
8. Be shamefast there wher shamefuU dedes
Be offred unto the.
9. Weare not suche costly clothes.
As are not for thy state:
10. Heare eache man's cause as thoh he wer
In wealth thine equall mate.
11. In place thy maners shewe.
In right and comly wyse:
^ .12. From the let p'eace and quietnesse,
*And wars from others ryse.
With these twelve vertuous points,
Se thou do tye thee round.
And lyke and love this simple gifte,
Till better may be found.
Yet one point thou dost lacke.
To tye thy hose before:
Love me as I love the, and shall
From hence for evermore.
— Farwell,
The English in Massachusetts, Connect-
icut, New Hampshire, Maine,
and Rhode Island
I 620-1 700
Figure 43.
A Puritan Dame.
Two carpenters
One fustian worker and silk dyer
One lady's maid
Two printers and publishers
One tailor
N 1620 came the first English settlers to Massa-
chusetts — the Pilgrims, or Separatists, as they
are sometimes called, in their sombre coloured
garments, of the same shapes and fashions,
however, as those in vogue at the gay court of
Charles I, the superfluous trimmings, knots of
bright ribbon, rich laces and feathers, being
conspicuously absent.
In this company of one hundred and four
Pilgrims, which arrived at Plymouth, Decem-
ber 20, 1620, were the following:
One wool-carder
One cooper
One merchant
Four seamen
One soldier
Two tradesmen
Ten adult servants
One lay reader
One hatter
One physician
One smith
The Pilgrims, like the Roundheads in England, were minded
to discourage extravagance, and made strict laws to control fashions
of dress. Three years later they were followed by the Puritans of
the Massachusetts Bay Company, who, according to Weedon, settled
first at Cape Ann and afterward removed to Salem. This Company
was a large and rich organization and provided each man with a
suitable outfit:
83
84 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Four pairs of shoes A green cotton waistcoat
Four pairs of stockings A leather belt
A pair of Norwich gaiters A woolen cap
Four shirts A black hat
Two suits of doublet and hose of Two red knit caps
leather lined with oil skin Two pairs of gloves
A woolen suit lined with leather A mandillion or cloak lined with cotton
Four bands and an extra pair of breeches were
Two handkerchiefs allotted each man (Figure 44).
There were many women in this band of settlers, but no men-
tion is made of their garments.
This outfit was much more liberal than that provided by the
Virginia Company, but the climate of Massachusetts was bleak and
cold compared with that of Virginia, although the air apparently agreed
with Francis Higginson, who wrote the following letter from Boston
in 1629:
"But since I came hither on this voyage I thank God I have had
perfect health and I, that have not gone without a cap for many years
together neither durst leave off the same, have now cast away my cap,
and do wear none at all in the day time; and whereas beforetime
I clothed myself with double clothes and thick waistcoats to keep me
warm even in summer time, I do now go as thin clad as any, only
wearing a light stuff cassock upon my shirt and stuff breeches of one
thickness without lining."
This company of Puritans, which numbered about two hundred,
eventually founded Boston and other places in the neighbourhood:
Charlestown, Watertown, Dorchester, Roxbury, Mystic, Lynn, etc.
They kept in touch with the Mother Country and imported many
comforts, which the Plymouth Bay Company eschewed.
About 1630 a body of this Massachusetts Bay Company, com-
posed chiefly of yeomen of Dorsetshire, England, settled in Connect-
icut. They were mostly Church of England people of the repre-
sentative Anglo-Saxon type, and in their laws we find few restrictions
concerning dress, although at the dawn of the Revolution the people
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
85
of Connecticut were among the first of the Colonists to renounce
foreign luxuries and augment the use of homemade articles. We
read that "master-tailors were, paid 12 pence, inferior 8 pence per
day, with dyett."
In 1634, the Mas-
sachusetts Court forbade
the purchase of "Any
apparell, either woolen,
silke, or lynnen with any
lace on it, silver, golde,
silk, or thread." They
shall not "make or
buy slashed clothes, other
than one slashe in each
sleeve and another in the
backe" ; there shall be no
"cutt works, imbroid'd
or needle work'd capps,
bands & Rayles; no
gold or silver girdles, hatt
bands, belts, ruffs, beaver
hatts."
In 1636 lace was for-
bidden; only the binding
of a small edging on
linen was allowed.
Points were the usual fastenings in use during the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries. Sometimes they had metal tags at the ends
and were more or less ornamental. Frequent mention is made of
them by Shakespeare:
"Their points being broken, down fell their hose;"
"With one that ties his points," etc.
Figure 44.
A Puritan Cloak or Mandillion of Black Silk with
Small Embroidered Buttons. The original garment
from which the drawing is taken is in the South Ken-
sington Museum, London.
86 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Like their successors, the modern suspenders, they were often
very dainty and were appropriately given as love tokens.
Margaret Winthrop, in a letter to England written from Massa-
chusetts, gives a note of daily wear: "I must of a necessity mike
me a gown to wear every day and would have one bought me of good
strong black stuff and Mr. Smith to make it of the civilest fashion
now in use. If my sister Downing would please to give him some
directions about it, he would make it the better."* Slight as is this
note, it proves that Dame Winthrop was not indifferent to the pre-
vailing fashions, and we know that English gentlewomen of that
time were dressed as in Figures 21, 32, 33, 35, and 36. The familiar
portrait of Governor Winthrop in a ruff and long hair indicates that
he had not adopted the dress of the strict Puritans (Figure 93). Un-
fortunately, no portrait of his wife has been handed down to pos-
terity, and we are left to conjecture that the dress of "good strong
black stuff" to "wear every day" was made of durant, something
after the fashion of Figure 21, or, perhaps, like that of the Puritan
gentlewoman in the initial letter of this chapter, which represents
a typical Puritan of the Massachusetts Bay Company.
Abundant evidence of the various styles of dress of English women
in the reigns of Charles I and II is preserved in the clever sketches
of Hollar. They are invaluable to the historian.
Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-1677) went from Cologne and Antwerp
to London in the train of the Earl of Arundel, English Ambassador,
in 1635, and was appointed teacher of drawing to the young Prince,
afterwards Charles II. A volume of sketches by the royal pupil, to
which Hollar had given the finishing touches, may be seen among
the Harleian manuscripts at the British Museum. In 1640 ap-
peared his "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or the Severall Habits
of English Women from the Nobilitiee to the Country Women as
they are in these times."
* Margaret Winthrop, by Mrs. Earle.
87
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 89
In 1643 appeared a second book, ''Theatrum Mulierum," in
which are represented the various styles of dress in the leading
nations of Europe. On the accession of Charles II, Hollar was
appointed His Majesty's Designer.
His books are now very rare. Copies may be seen in the Library
of the British Museum, but I do not know of any in a public library
in this country. The "Theatrum Mulierum" shows the costumes
of the women of Holland in the seventeenth century, specimens of
which are given in Figures 106, 107, no, 124, and 126.
In the Colony at Plymouth a manifesto against long hair was
published, in which it was called an impious custom and a shameful
practice for any man who had the least care of his soul to wear long
hair. An old song about the Roundhead Puritans runs thus:
"What creature's this? with his short hair.
His httle band, and huge long ears,
That this new faith has founded ?
The Puritans were never such,
The Saints themselves had ne'er so much —
Oh such a knave's a Roundhead."
The majority of the Puritans, however, were very much in earnest
on the subject of reform in dress, and it has been said they expressed
their piety not only in the choice of sombre hues and simplicity of
cut, but even worked into the garments religious sayings and quota-
tions from Holy Writ. As Fairholt puts it, "they literally moral-
ized dress."
"Nay Sir, she is a Puritan at her needle too,
Indeed,
She works religious petticoats; for flowers
She'll make church histories: besides
My smock sleeves have such holy embroideries,
And are so learned, that I fear in time
All my apparel will be quoted by
Some pure instructor."*
* The Citye Match. Jasper Mayne, L. 1639.
90
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
This fashionable custom in England is also mentioned by Ben
Jonson. "The linen of men and women was either so worked
as to resemble lace or was ornamented by the needle into repre-
sentations of fruit and flowers, passages of history," etc.*
The inventories of about 1641
show that
3 suits of clothes were valued at £^
3 coats "
2 6s.
I hat and doublet "
3
4 pairs of shoes "
9
4 " " stockings"
6
I stuff petticoat was
6
2 pairs of linen breeches
I 6s.
In 1652 is found the first
mention of shoemaking, at Salem.
It was about this time that the
General Court of Massachusetts
passed sumptuary laws to repress
the spending of too large a pro-
portion of income on apparel.
Weedon says: ''When the Court
was not occupied with grave
business of State, it devoted itself
to correcting morals and regulat-
ing dress. The function of dress
in the minds of the anxious Fathers was not only to cover and protect
people, but to classify and arrange them. The same conserving
prejudice which marked their treatment of labourers and apprentices
controlled their notions of dress. Social prestige, . rank, caste, and
breeding were to be formulated in the garments of the wearer. It
was not only that the precious capital of the community was wasted
by expensive dressing, but the well ordered ranks of society were
* Every Man out of his Humour.
Figure 47.
Typical Winter Costume of a Lady of the
Period, 1640.
Figure 48.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 93
jostled and disturbed by the glitter of lace and the show of silken
hoods, the tramp of strong boots."
Mrs. Lake, who came over with the Dorsetshire Company in
1635, sent out to England for the following articles for the furnishing
of the new household of her daughter, who married John Gallup
of the same settlement in 1645. We give the list in full as thor-
oughly typical of the time:
" A peare of brasse Andirons
A brasse Kittell,
2 grate Chestes, well tnade,
2 armed Cheares with rushe bottums,
2 carven Caisse for Bottels wch my Cuzzen Cooke has of mine
A Warming Pann,
A Big Iron Pott,
6 Pewter Plates
2 Pewter Platters,
3 Pewter Porringeres
A small Stew Pann of Copper
A peare of Brasse and a peare of Silver Candle-sticks (of goode plate)
A Drippe Panne
A Bedsteede of carven Oake (ye one in wch I sleept in my father's house,
with ye Vallances and Curtayns and Tapestry Coverlid belongynge
& ye wch my sister Breadcale hath in charge of Mee)
Duzzen Napekins of fine linen damasque &
2 table cloathes of ye same. Also 8 fine
Holland Pillowe Beeres and 4 ditto sheetes.
A skellet,
A pestel & mortar
A few Needels of different sizes
A carpet (that is, a table cover; the name was universally applied thus)
of goodly stuff and colour, aboute 2 Ell longe.
6 Table knifes of ye beste Steal with such handles as may bee.
Also 3 large & 3 smal Silvern Spoones, and 6 of home."
We are told that Mrs. Lake left a wardrobe of considerable extent
and richness, besides a goodly list of linens and other household
treasures, with several carved chests to contain them, all of which she
bequeathed to friends and relatives: "To my daughter Martha
Harris," she says, "I give my tapestry coverlid and all my other
94
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
apparell which are not disposed of to others particularly, and I give
unto her my mantel and after her decease, to all her children as
their need is."* This "mantel" was supposed to have been Russian
sable, even then as costly as it was rare, and presumably brought
from the far East, perhaps China.
We read also in "Colonial Days and Ways" that "all the better
class among the Colonists seem to have disproportionately liberal sup-
plies of 'mantels and pettycotes' of velvet or brocade, with other 'gar-
ments to consort therewith,' but this was not due so much to vanity
as to thrift, the best being literally the cheapest in the days when
the fine fabrics were so honestly made as to wear for decades and
Figure 50.
Reign of Elizabeth,
1595-1603 + .
Figure 51. Figure 52.
Reign of Charles I, 1625 +
Figure I53. Figure 54.
During the Commonwealth,
I 649-1 660.
the cost of carriage was the same for a coat of frieze as for one of
velvet." Mrs. Smith throws a new light on the subject, which also
helps us to understand the wills and inventories in which these beauti-
ful old stuffs were handed down as family heirlooms. Fortunately
for this book of costume, some Colonial garments have been pre-
served in their original fashion, while, of course, others bear the
marks of many alterations to suit the times.
In 1638 an order was passed by the General Court of Massa-
chusetts :
"No garment shall be made with short sleeves, and such as have
garments already made with short sleeves shall not wear the same
* Colonial Days and Ways, by Helen Evertson Smith.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
95
unless they cover the arm to the wrist ; and hereafter no person what-
ever shall make any garment for women with sleeves more than half
an ell wide."
The town records were full of prosecutions, acquittals, and con-
victions for offences against these laws. In Salem in 1652 "a man
was presented for excess of bootes, ribands, gould and silver laces,
and Ester Jynks for wearing silver lace"; while in Newbury in 1653
"two women were called upon to pay taxes for wearing silken hoods
and scarves, but were discharged on proof that their husbands were
worth two hundred pounds each."
"John Hutchins' wife was also discharged upon testimony of
her being brought up above the
ordinary ranke." "The latter,"
observes. Weeden, "is an interesting
instance showing that rank as well as
property condoned these offences."
Any one of less estate than two
hundred pounds was held to strict
account • in dress. The women
offended especially by wearing silk
and tiffany hoods; but they also
wore broad-brimmed hats (Figure 43)
Figure 55.
Reign of
Charles II,
1660 -I- .
Figure 56.
Reign of
James II,
1685 + .
Figure 57.
Reign of
William III,
1690 + -
Under the stiff bodice of a
gown a lady wore a petticoat either of woolen stuff or of rich silk
or brocade. The ruff had given place to a broad collar, plain or
embroidered, falling over the shoulders (Figures 20 and 2>s)' y
As leather was much used, a tannery was almost the first industry ^
started in every settlement. In 1676 the price of shoes was regu-
lated by law. "Five pence half penny a size for all pleyne and
wooden heel'd shoes, and above seven pence half penny a size for well
wrought 'French falls.'" Wooden heels were worn all through
the seventeenth century. Even at this early date, Lynn, Massachu-
setts, was the centre for the manufacture of shoes, which were
/
i
96 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
usually made with broad straps and buckles; women's shoes being
of neat leather or woolen cloth and occasionally of silk.
During the seventeenth century leather clothing was much worn,
especially by labourers and servants. The excellent brain-tanned
deerskin, which the Indians taught the Colonists to prepare, served
well for garments. Hampshire kerseys were used for common wear.
Monmouth caps and red knit caps are mentioned among the articles
used by the lower classes, and the mandillion, or over-garment,
fastened with hooks and eyes, is frequently spoken of. Irish stock-
ings, so often mentioned in this century, have been compared to
modern socks, but they were of cloth and were very warm. While
rich apparel is noted here and there, in spite of statute law, it is evi-
dent that the great majority of the people dressed plainly. Their
X«L|.
/6/0.- /6/0.- /6A0. IbUi. IbUJ. Ihb3.- IbZXr l69Fr--
Fig. 58. Fig. 59. Fig. 60. Fig. 61. Fig. 62. Fig. 63. Fig. 64. Fig. 65.
frugality and abstinence made a foundation on which sumptuary
statutes could be based.
Doublets were worn by both sexes ; they were always lined
or padded for extra warmth (Figure 31). The sleeves were often
slashed and embroidered extravagantly, as indicated in the "re-
straining acts" of the Pilgrim Fathers. Falling bands at the neck
were very common, and often they were embroidered. A deep
linen collar was sometimes preferred in place of the bands.
" This pretty new fashion indulge him to wear
There's no law in bands, I may venture to swear,
But they set ofif an old fashion face I declare.
Which nobody can deny, deny, which nobody can deny."
Shoes were ornamented with rosettes (Figures 59 and 61). A
beaver or felt hat covered the head. Embroidered gloves were
- - ^
cd rt ^
^ « ^
bC . s -^
^ ^ 13
;=: "B -^
i=! c: tj
cj C O
23 S cq
^ -S R^
^ ^ -^
H^ ^
I ^ "a,
o
« a> o
« c S
5 '^^ ^
*"" -t-i •-*
j3 ;S -a
â– ^ 'o "S
c! ° o
'^ 53 8
=3 J2
•*-■?> "o
o
p ^ ^ -2
G .
J^ Q
-^ .ti =3
ID S
bO -^
cfl
X2 ^- g
J3
rt ^ o
^ X2 T3
C
3 •— o
"^ -6 -^
OJ iH Ul
aj C C
T3 3 S
^ bC
C
S
bO r-
5 OJ
bC rt
O
D '5^ ,—
-n ^
^ P^
bC^
'*-' (1)
-a
o
C O C <->
> I ^ ^
i> >H o -5
c ^
^ o
^ -G
S2 .5 *^ nn x:
^ TTJ <U
(U O -G
Q- r! G
•J C^ O
G
O
lU
G ?
O o
bJD -ji
o
r5
-^ O
X3
O
> ^ .5
bc oj ;=3
<u -.'^
^ "" -^ ^ -S ^
.ti ^ (n G •£ -a
I— I tn ^ r" -t-"
rt
b
hr
o
n
>â–
o
J=l
to
^
r/5
1
u
n1
lU
tHH
t-u
. bC
bC**^
J2 O "^
T3 c« X
aj
in -G ii
^ ^ -^ 2
G
vG S ^
G ^ lU
b 5i ^
>
O
X3
•::3 -C^ J3 ^
X a; >-< <u
o
G
tJ -G
-G
G
O
J2 <M
.S •— Lh
aj
<U
^1
en O
3
-G
3 On o
O) Ti
3 G
bO OJ
oj -O
^^
bC w
.s s
rt <U
bO
. bC
^ 2
G -^
XI .ti
^- ^
^ -^
— <u
o o^
â– ^ -G
•s s
o =->
"o -^
G 2
(72
<U U-i
2r -t^ . ^ ••-'
o <l^
bO O
G W
o
E^ E ^ -^
S ^
C/3 (J
= 1
§ °
^ -^
c
s
G §
^ -
o o
bX) «*-'
•-I rt
u
. Xi
S Oh
9--G
•I ^
^ o
O ^
XI
to t/5
t! G
O 3
S^ rt
O X
5 ^-i ^
U
(u 5
o
o
G >^
^H C
<u •-<
"^ T
c ^
G O
G
G
bC g.
G ^
Pi P tJT l-H IW
^ iH o — ' G
-^ ^
r^ o
o
X
G3' Kn t^
^ C^ "^ ^
o i> — .
c
a
o
^ X
.-"«*- "O T-! ^
1 ^
O Td
X
-G -7^ S
-O O
OJ o
G G
*- O
-a
.i rt «3
i; Xi
X
t^ bC
3 • G
1^ ^ f^
o
13 •" *j "5
e x: _c o 2i
-a
-a
G
X
H
. G
O "^^
;? >-
o :S
o
o
>
f;-?
O X
^ — G
e .^ - >z
-a
o
o
2 -B
G
-a
ri
en
(i)
£
o
o
o
X
tn
o
X
tn
73
1/2
ti
C
£
c
<u
UJ
bt)
M
<u
C
d
>
O
(U
o
cj
G
T3
X
<u
X
H
^ -S
o
T3 (U
ii G
-^ "^
*-> •4-1 O
> C .-G
-^ -• ^ X
^/JUaA
97
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
99
always worn with full dress, the flaps of the gauntlets being richly
figured or fringed (Figures 72, 74, 75, 76, and 77). Swords were
suspended from embroidered shoulder-belts. Gold and silver lace
was often used for trimming.
In the Massachusetts Colony, armour was provided for the emi-
grants. Bandoliers, horn flasks, corselets, and pikes are mentioned
frequently.
In an old book called an "Abridgement of the laws in force and
use in Her Majesty's (Queen Anne) Plantations of Virginia (viz.) of
Jamaica, New England, Barba-
does, New York, Maryland, Caro-
lina, etc., London 1709," will be
found under the heading "Ammu-
nition, Or Laws Concerning the
Colonial Militia": "I. an. 1662.
Every man able to bear arms shall
have in his house a fixed gun, 2 1.
of powder and 8 1. of shot, at
least, to be provided by the Master
of the Family, under the Penalty
of being fined 80 1. of tobacco.
II. an. 1666. Every County shall
be empowered by their By-Laws to make such provision of ammu-
nition at the county charges as their several occasions require.
III. Captains of foot and horse shall take a strict account of
what arms are wanting and represent the same to the Colonel,"
etc. This affords valuable proof of the familiarity with firearms
expected of the Colonists in everyday life, also of the early origin
of the American militia. With regard to the latter organization,
we read under the date of 1660 as follows:
"Every person neglecting to appear at the Days of Exercising
the Militia shall be fined 100 1. of Tobacco."
Figure 70. Figure 71.
Cannons or Breeches Fastenings (from an
Old Print, 1650).
loo HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"Ten long guns or muskets with one Barrel of gun powder and
Bullets proportionable shall be kept in each garrison as a Reserve
and Defence for the same."
"For the better taking alarms upon 'the approach of Indians the
frequent shooting of guns at Drinkings is prohibited."
"Six shoots of powder each man is required to bring with him
on Training Days or pay a fine. The latter to be put aside for the
purchase of Drums and Colours."
A portrait of Sir John Leverett, Governor of the Massachusetts
Colony in 1673, in the Essex Institute at Salem, depicts a buff
coat of dressed leather with metal fastenings, like ornamental
hooks and eyes, down the front; a falling collar of linen tied with
little tassels, and a very magnificent pair of embroidered gloves,
which Sir John is holding in one hand, while on a table beside him
is a hat ornamented with a long feather (Figure 82). Probably the
portrait was taken when he was a Colonial soldier, for history
records that he went to England in 1644 and took the side of the
Parliament against the King, but after his return to Boston he filled
several important offices, and in 1676 was magnanimously knighted
by Charles II in acknowledgment of his services to the New England
Colonies.
/ The women of New England in the last quarter of the seven-
teenth century were well, if not handsomely, dressed. Undoubtedly
the gentlewomen of that time had brocades and silks for festive occa-
sions and fur-trimmed cloaks and hoods for the cold season, but
the ordinary dress was a short gown of camlet over a homespun
petticoat with a long white apron of linen. The sleeves of the gown
were supplemented by mittens reaching to the elbows and leaving
a part of the fingers and thumbs bare. The cloak worn at that time
was short, with a hood to cover the head, which was thrown back in
meeting; and those who wore hats took them off. The matrons
wore caps habitually and the young women had their hair curled
Figure 74.
Figure 77.
Figure 75.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
103
and tied back with a ribbon or arranged in a soft coil at the back,
with short curls on the forehead.
Scarlet robes are said to have been worn by the judges in the
Figure 78.
A Man in Buff -coat and Bandolier, 1620-1660.
Massachusetts Colony. Mrs. Earle gives a picture of one stated to
have been worn by Judge Curwen, of Salem, during the gruesome witch
6
I04
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
trials, but the garment in question is so exactly like the cloaks worn
by the women of the Puritan days that one is tempted to think it was
borrowed from his wife for these solemn occasions. However, scarlet
was a favourite colour for men in those days, and a very romantic
story has recently been written by Mrs. Austin about the red riding
cloak worn by Governor Bradford, 2d, about the middle of the seven-
teenth century.
Mourning for the dead was attended by various solemn cere-
monies in the Colonies.
Judge Sewall, of Mas-
sachusetts (Figure 81),
describes minutely the
funeral of Lady Andros,
the wife of the Governor
(Figure 97), on the loth of
February, 1688, to which
he had been invited by
the "Clark of the South
Company." "It took
place between 7 and 8
P. M. probably. The
hearse, surrounded by
torch bearers, was drawn
by six horses, and es-
corted by a guard of
soldiers from the Governour's house to the South Meeting House
where the body was placed before the pulpit, with six mourning women
by it. There was a great noise and clamour to keep the people out of
the house, which was made light with candles and torches." He tells
of himself that he went home, and about nine o'clock heard the bell
tolled again for the funeral. He missed the sermon, whether pur-
posely or not is not told, but knows that the text was "Cry, all flesh
Figure 79.
Points with Aiglets
Drawing Together a
Slashed Sleeve.
Figure 80.
Points with Aiglets or
Tags Fastening a Buff-coat
and Sleeve Together (from
an Old Print, 1650-1660).
I05
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
107
is grass." After naming a number of the people who were present,
he remarks, "Twas warm thawing weather and the wayes extreame
dirty. No volley at placing the body in the tomb." On Saturday,
February nth, another entry in this instructive diary reads: "The
next day the mourning cloths of the pulpit is taken off and given
to Mr. Willard." Frequent mention is made throughout this diary,
and others of the time, of the gloves, scarves, and mourning rings
given friends and relatives at funerals, and there is evidence that the
general custom of wearing black as a token of sorrow was followed
throughout the Colonies, the women wearing gowns and hoods of
Figure 83. Figure 84. Figure 85. Figure 86.
Various Forms of the Buff Coat.
Figure 87.
black stuff with trimmings, cuffs, and veils of crepe, at least such
was the ''customary woe," but it was observed with less formality
by the Non-Conformists than by the Orthodox Church people. Little
children were dressed in black and wore black ribbons for a time,
and it was not unusual for the servants of a household to be dressed
in black when the head of the family died: as in nearly every other
respect, English ways and English customs were very closely fol-
lowed throughout the Colonies in America. In the Philadelphia
Library there is preserved, among many other interesting relics of
the past, an old hatchment formerly used in the Dickinson family.
io8
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
— probably brought from England, — which was placed over the
doorway when a death occurred in the family. Another specimen
is also to be seen at Christ Church, Philadelphia.
The portrait of a widow given in Figure 150 represents Lady
Mary Fenwick, in high widow's cap and tippets, black dress and
veil, in one hand holding a portrait of her husband, Sir John
Fenwick, who by an act of attainder was beheaded 27th of
January, 1696, without a trial, for conspiracy in favour of James 11.
Lady Fenwick made the greatest exertions to save her husband's
life and became an object of much interest to the Jacobite Party.
The cap is of the shape known as the ''commode" in William and
Mary's reign (Figure ^S).
162.0.
1635.
Figure 88.
Figure 89,
Gorgets.
Figure 90.
Though the Massachusetts General Court admonished men
against long hair and inveighed against excess in apparel in 1675,
the laws in this direction were dropping into disuse in many districts.
In the same year the grand jury threatened the selectmen of Ded-
ham with prosecution for their neglect in enforcing the sumptuary
statutes. These worthy burghers did not relish the work "of strip-
ping silken hoods and ribbands from irate dames and of arraigning
the great boots of dandies. There is no record to show that they
heeded the mandate of the grand jury."
The inventories in Boston prove that sumptuous dress was in
fashion notwithstanding the written laws against it. Robert Rich-
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 109
bell, in 1682, leaves two silver hilted rapiers and a belt worth ;^i2.
His wardrobe contained a satin coat with gold flowers, and blue
breeches, £/\.\ a stuff suit with lace, several other suits, all accom-
panied by seven cravats and seven pairs of ruffles and ribbons, valued
at £t.
Periwigs came into fashion at the Restoration, 1660. Richbell
must have vexed poor Judge Sewall sorely, for he was the possessor
of three.
We know that silver buttons were very common in the Colonies
in the seventeenth century, and gold ones were also used. Captain
Hudson, whose dress was modest in comparison with Richbell' s,
had two suits equipped with them. In a trading stock, mention is
made of 4 gross of silver and gold buttons valued at £3 12s.
A curiosity of the time was "Beggars' velvet," 14 yards worth 21s.
The long periwigs introduced into England from France in the
latter part of Charles II's reign were promptly assumed by the women
of fashion, together with the plumed hats of the same period. Pepys
records the fact thus:
"Walking in the gallery of Whitehall, I find the Ladies of Honour
dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets with deep
skirts, just for all the world like men's, and their doublets buttoned
up the breast, with periwigs and hats on, that only for a long petti-
coat dragging under their men's coats, no body would take them for
women on any point whatever, which was an odd sight and a sight
that did not please me."
About 1680, the long straight coats, which took the fickle
fancy of Charles II for a time, were introduced into New England.
They were made without a collar and were worn with a neck-cloth
which fastened with a silver buckle under the hair in the back.
Specimens of this fashion are given in Figures 137, 138, photographed
from the original garments in the South Kensington Museum. They
belonged to Sir Thomas Isham (1657-1681), third baronet, who
no HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
was born at Lamport in Nottinghamshire. When still a boy he wrote
a diary in Latin, by the command of his father, which gives a vivid
picture of the everyday doings of a family of the period. This diary
was translated and privately printed (1875) by the Rev. Robert
Isham, rector of Lamport, where the original is still preserved. Isham
succeeded to the Baronetcy in 1679. He is described as a young
gentleman of great expectations. Figure 137 represents the suit of
light brocade prepared for his wedding, which he never wore, as he
died after a brief illness on the day fixed for the ceremony.
Weedon again records: "In the inventories of women, house-linen
generally formed an important part. Mistress Anne Hibbins in
1656 had relatively more of the luxuries her sex cherishes in all periods.
A gold wedding ring at i6s., a ring with a diamond at 8s., a 'taffaty'
cloak at {^2 los., a black satin doublet at los., a green wrought cup-
board cloth with silk fringe at 15s., 5 painted callico curtains and
valiants at ;^i los., show that Anne loved the things hated by the
Puritans.
"In William Paine's stock in 1660 were silk wares in two boxes
at ;;^3i 14s. These occasional luxuries stand out conspicuously.
Usually the assorted merchandise of the traders is in solid wares
and goods for the everyday use of everyday people. The women
selected them carefully and conscientiously. In 1647 one writes:
'She have three peeces of stuf, but I think there is but one of them
yt you would like yrself . It is pretty sad stuf, but it have a thred of
white in it; it is 3 quarters broad and ye priz is 5s. 6d ye yard.' "*
Towards the close of the seventeenth century we note a tendency
to display in all inventories and descriptions left by the wealthy
colonists of New England, as well as those in the same period in
Virginia, Maryland, and the Carolinas. It was the reign of William
and Mary in England, and the Colonies were not subject to any form
of oppression. Intercourse between the two countries was frequent,
* Weedon's Economic History of New England.
Figure 91.
Figure 92.
Figure 93.
Figure 94.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 113
and every ship brought over comforts and luxuries, also fine clothes
made by fashionable London tailors, wigs from the popular wig-
makers, etc. It is quite safe to conclude that fashions in the Colonies
were never more than a year behind those of old England.
Children in the New England Colonies, as elsewhere at that time,
were dressed as much like their parents as possible. The baby
clothes of the seventeenth century were marvellous specimens of
needlework. The earliest garments I have seen are the christening
blanket, shirts, and mitts said to have been worn by Governor Brad-
ford, of Plymouth, and now exhibited at Salem in the Essex Insti-
tute.
A portrait of Robert Gibbs, aged four and a half, painted in Bos-
ton in 1670, also one of John Quincy, at a little more than one year
of age, painted in 1690, show the long hanging sleeves usually worn
by children under ten years of age (Figure 39). There is also a por-
trait of Jane Bonner at the age of eight, painted in 1700, which
looks almost like a diminutive court lady, with stiff stomacher, ruffles
of point-lace, and a necklace of pearls; in one hand a fan, a rose in
the other.*
New England by this time included New Hampshire and Maine,
settled in 1623 by an English Company in search of gold, and Rhode
Island, founded by Roger Williams in 1636.
The attitude of the New England Colonists towards the Mother
Church is not clearly outlined in all the authorities of the time; and,
in order to prevent anachronisms in costuming a story of that period,
it may be well to explain here that the emigrants who came over in
1630 under Governor John Winthrop, and who the day before they
embarked sent an address to the "rest of the brethren of the Church
of England" calling the Church their "dear mother," had, notwith-
standing their dutiful address, when they arrived in America, allowed
a sense of freedom to overcome their allegiance, and, following the
* Child Life in Colonial Days, by Mrs. Earle.
114 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
example of the Pilgrims of Plymouth and the Puritans of Salem,
established separate churches, choosing their own officers. The
Plymouth settlers had not openly renounced the authority of the
Church of England, but they had laid aside the established ritual.
Endicott followed this example and organized the first New England
Church at Salem. A few members of that Colony objected, but he
had them arrested and sent to England. From that time (1630)
Non-Conformist Churches were established in every New England
settlement. A simple method of choosing their leaders was adopted.
Each member wrote his vote on a piece of paper, stating the Lord
moved him to think this man is fit to be pastor, and this one to be
teacher. The first pastor thus chosen was Skelton, with Francis
Higginson, whose journal is quoted on page 84, for teacher. The
choice was confirmed by a number of the leading members of this
Company laying their hands on them in prayer.
With the disuse of the English ritual came the abandonment of the
white surplice during the service, but the Geneva gown (Figures 148,
149), or preaching gown as it was often called, was worn in the pulpit,
not only by the Puritan Non-Conformists, but also by the Presbyte-
rians, who adopted it even before they came to the Colonies. A
close-fitting black cap or coif is seen in many of the pictures of New
England divines.
From "The Judicial History of Massachusetts" I have gleaned
the following account of lawyers in the New England Colonies:
"It was many years after the settlement of the Colony, before
anything like a distinct class of Attorneys at Law was known. And
it is doubtful if there were any regularly educated Attorneys who
practiced in the Courts of the Colony at any time during its exist-
ence. Several of the Magistrates, it is true, had been educated as
Lawyers at home, but they were almost constantly in the magistracy,
nor do we hear of their being ever engaged in the management of
cases. If they made use of their legal acquirements, it was in aid
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 115
of the great object which they had so much at heart — the estabhsh-
ment of a rehgious Commonwealth, in which the laws of Moses were
much more regarded as precedents than the decisions of Westminster
Hall, or the pages of the few elementary writers upon the Common-
law which were then cited in the English Courts. It was thus,
therefore, that the clergy were admitted to such a direct participation
in the affairs of the Government, and that to two of their number was
committed the duty of codifying the laws by which the Common-
wealth was to be governed thereafter.
''There were Attorneys, it is true, and there were lawyers, and
all the concomitant evils growing out of the bad passions involved
in litigation, and there was a law against barratry, passed in 1641,
because even then there was barratry practiced in the Courts. The
profession seems to have now but little favor in the public mind,
although for the first ten years of the Government there were no fees
allowed to the 'patrons,' as they were called, who defended or aided
parties in their suits."
This statement explains the similarity in the dress of judges,
governors, and clergymen of this period of colonial history, as will
be noticed in the portraits of the day, given in Figures 91, 92, 94,
and 149.
THE DUTCH AND ENGLISH
IN
NEW YORK, LONG ISLAND, THE JERSEYS,
DELAWARE, AND PENNSYLVANIA
1621-1700
with brief mention of
the Walloons, Huguenots, and Swedes, as well as of the
Quakers and German Settlers
to which is added an account of the dress of English
Lawyers in the Seventeenth Century
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 119
TIME'S ALTERATION;
or
The Old Man's Rehearsall, What Brave Days He Knew,
A Great While Agone, When His Old Cap Was New.
When this old cap was new,
'Tis since two hundred yeere;
No mahce then we knew,
But all things plentie were:
All friendship now decayes
(Beleeve me, this is true).
Which was not in those dayes
When this old cap was new.
Good hospitalitie
Was cherisht then of many;
Now poor men starve and die
And are not helpt by any:
For charitie waxeth cold.
And love is found in few:
This was not in time of old
When this old cap was new.
Where-ever you travel'd then,
You might meet on the way
Brave knights and gentlemen
Clad in their countrey gray.
That courteous would appeare,
And kindly welcome you:
No puritans then were
When this old cap was new.
Our ladies in those dayes
In civil habit went.
Broad-cloth was then worth prayse,
And gave the best content;
French fashions then were scorn'd,
Fond fangles then none knew.
Then modistie women adorn'd
When this old cap was new.
I20 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
A man might then behold
At Christmas, in each hall
Good fires to curbe the cold,
And meat for great and small;
The neighbours were friendly bidden,
And all had welcome true;
The poore from the gates were not chidden
When this old cap was new.
Blacke-jackes to every man
Were fiU'd with wine and beere;
No pewter pot nor kanne
In those days did appeare:
Good cheare in a noble- man's house
Was counted a seemely shew;
We wanted no brawne nor sowse
When this old cap was new.
We took not such delight
In cups of silver fine;
None under the degree of a knight
In plate drunke beere or wine:
Now each mechanicall man
Hath a cup-boord of plate, for a shew.
Which was a true thing then
When this old cap was new.
W%
The Dutch and English in New York,
Long Island, the Jerseys, Delaware,
and Pennsylvania
1621-1700
Figure 95.
A Dutch Colonist in New
Amsterdam.
VEN in a study of costume it is difficult to draw
a distinct line between the Dutch and English
elements in the Colony of Manhattan.
To an English seaman belongs the honour
of discovery in 1609. When Henry Hud-
son, sometimes called Hendrick (Figure 98),
brought the first ship to the mouth of the
river which bears his name, he was a navi-
gator of experience, well known to the mer-
chants of Holland, who on this occasion
had engaged him to make the voyage, and
it is likely that he had under him as many Dutch as English sailors
in his ship, "The Half-Moon." After a few weeks spent in exploring
the adjacent country, he returned with an enticing report of a great
many fur-clad animals near the shore. The trading proclivities of
the Dutch merchants were at once aroused and they hastened to
send over men to establish trading posts. But the first Colonial
settlement was in 1621, when the great West India Company was
chartered by the States General of Holland and given the monopoly
of the American tiade.
Peter Minuit, who was appointed Governor in 1626, arrived with
a large number of colonists, men, women, and children, with cattle
122 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
and household goods. Many of this company were Walloons of
French extraction whose forefathers had been driven from their
homes in Flanders and Belgium during the Inquisition, and had
afterward formed an industrious community in Holland. They
were skilled in various trades and were a valuable acquisition to the
new colony, but they do not appear to have worn a distinctive dress.
In 1628 an act was passed in Holland giving to every man who
raised a company of fifty colonists and brought them to America
a large tract of land and the title of Patroon. In fact, many privi-
leges were granted as an inducement to form a settlement in the
. Colony, and the Patroons became very rich and very powerful. A
thousand square miles were included in the estate of Patroon Van
Rensselaer (Figure 141). Fine cattle were imported, fruits, wheat,
rye, buckwheat, flax, and beans were cultivated. The religious
toleration prevailing in this Colony induced men from New England
to remove there, and the Huguenots from France also sought shelter
from persecution in New Amsterdam, as the town was called under
the Dutch supremacy (Figures 145, 146).
In spite of the hardships they had endured before they reached
the safe shelter of America, these people were distinguished for a
happy, thrifty temperament and gentle manners, and knew many
graceful accomplishments in the way of lace-making and embroidery,
which they cheerfully taught to their neighbours. They are said
to have been the first to weave carpets and hangings of odds and ends
"V of material. They were also versed in the concoction of delicate
coloured dyes, which they used for their garments and house decora-
tions.
The Huguenots settled also in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the
Carolinas, and in Virginia, and their descendants have taken a con-
spicuous part in the development of our country.
Almost from the outset, Manhattan was a cosmopolitan com-
munity, and costumes were as varied as the wonderful tulips in the
Figure 96.
Figure 97.
Figure
123
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 125
Dutch gardens. As there were neither sumptuary laws nor rehgious
restrictions to control the manner or material of dress, we find the
prevailing fashions among the citizens, both Dutch and English, very
elaborate. The mercantile spirit ever pervading New York prob-
ably stimulated the wearing of fine clothes.
We read of the stalwart Peter Stuyvesant, Governor of New
Amsterdam for many years, that "he was never otherwise than fault-
lessly dressed and always after the most approved European standard.
A wide drooping shirt collar fell over a velvet jacket with slashed
sleeves displaying full white linen shirt sleeves. His breeches were
also slashed, very full and fastened at the knee by a handsome scarf
tied in a knot,|and his shoes were ornamented with large rosettes."*
The leg which he lost in battle was replaced by a wooden one with
silver bands, which accounts for the tradition that he wore a silver
leg. Mrs. Lamb, in her "History of New York," says of Governor
Stuyvesant that "he had sterling excellence of character, but more
knowledge than culture," also that "his whole heart and soul became
interested in the country of his adoption. In bearing he seems
to have been somewhat haughty and exacting. One of his contem-
poraries recorded that, during his inauguration speech as Governor
of New Amsterdam in 1647, he kept the people standing with their
heads uncovered for more than an hour while he wore his chapeau,
as if he were the Czar of Muscovy. Habitually he wore a close cap
of black velvet on his dark hair, which imparted a still deeper shade
to his dark complexion, and his stern mouth was not hidden by the
slight mustache which he wore" (Figure 96).
From the same authority we learn that Governor Stuyvesant's
wife, Judith Bayard, "was a beautiful blonde and followed the French
fashions in dress, displaying considerable artistic skill in the per-
fection and style of her attire." Also that "the purity of morals
and decorum of manners for which the Dutch were distinguished
* History of New York, by Mrs. Lamb.
7
126
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
had been ascribed to the happy influence of their women, who mingled
in all the active affairs of life and were consulted with deferential
respect." As early as 1640 we read of many richly furnished houses
with well-kept gardens and choice conservatories in Colonial New
York. Governor Schuyler called his town house ''White Hall,"
and he owned a beautiful country-seat in the neighbourhood, for
which, it is said, he paid 6400 guilders in 1659.
Markets were held every Saturday
in 1656 and after, where laces, flax,
linen, linsey-woolsey, duffels, etc., were
sold by the farmers' wives.
The annual Fair, or Kermiss, was
an occasion of festivity which attracted
the people in their holiday garments
from the neighbouring villages. It was
inaugurated on the 20th of October,
1659, and usually lasted six weeks.
The working garb of the Dutch peasant
women consisted of a short woolen
petticoat with a loose jacket of red
cotton or blue Holland, a white ker-
chief folded around the shoulders, and
a close white cap. In Figure 100 a
sketch is given in which the long white
apron of coarse homespun linen is
caught up with the petticoat for convenience.
The Dutch women of the Manhattan Colony were marvellous
housewives. They cDncocted medicines and distilled perfumes from
the plants in their flourishing gardens. They instructed the maids
in carding and weaving, for the woolen garments worn by the family,
as well as the household linen and underwear, were usually made
under the home roof. Moreover, they had a shrewd knowledge
/a.n.fi.
Figure ioo.
A Dutch Woman in Working
Dress (from a Contemporary Print,
Middle of Seventeenth Certury).
127
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
129
of mercantile pursuits and often carried on business for themselves
and invested their savings in trading ventures. Their houses were
scrupulously neat; white curtains usually hung in the leaden sashed
windows, and pots of flowers stood on the ledges, while a great loom
was placed under the sloping roof of the back stoop. Every family
in the Colony made a coarse cloth called linsey-woolsey, the
warp being of linen and the woof of
wool, which they kept ready to be
finished off by one of the itinerant
weavers. About the middle of the
seventeenth century we read of a rattle-
watch dressed in a costume of blue
cloth with facings of orange, and armed
with lanterns, rattles, and long staffs.
The duty of this company of watch-
men was to patrol the town by day as
well as by night. In the early days of
the Colony a licensed herdsman was
put in charge of all the cattle of the
community. The distinctive badge of
his office was a twisted cow's horn
fitted with a mouth-piece suspended
by a green cord across his shoulders.
The ordinary working dress of a man
was probably of homespun linsey-
woolsey with hose of hand-knitted yarn. Monmouth hats of
thrums were commonly worn in all the Colonies (Figure 3 7 J).
Mrs. Van Rensselaer, in her "Goode Vrow of Mana-ha-ta," aptly
describes the quaint costumes of the Dutch people in New York.
We will borrow her description of Dutch babies. "Upon the birth
of a child, the infant was wrapped in swaddling clothes and put
into an elaborately embroidered pocket, which was trimmed with
Figure 105.
A Dutchman in Working Dress
(from a Contemporary Painting,
Middle of Seventeenth Century).
I30 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
frills of ribbon, the colour indicating the sex of the child. A tiny
ruffled cap confined its ears closely to its head, and the baby was
wrapped so firmly in its bands that it could move neither hand nor
foot, and was laid in its cradle, or hung suspended on a nail in the
wall without fear of its stirring from any position in which it might
be placed. The birth of an infant was announced to the neighbours
by hanging an elaborately trimmed pincushion on the knocker of
the front door, the colour of which denoted the sex, blue indicating
a boy and white a girl. This cushion was usually provided by the
grandmother and was handed down as an heirloom from one genera-
tion to another to serve for similar occasions."
All authorities tell us of the many petticoats worn by a bride one
over another, and of the bridal crown which in Holland was a token
of the wealth of the family. It was made often of silver and adorned
with jewels, but when the family was not rich, it was of pasteboard
covered with embroidered silk. Only matrons wore coifs, and they
varied with the rank and affluence of the wearer (Figures 121, 131).
The inventory of the wife of a respectable and well-to-do Dutch
settler in New Netherlands, Vrouentje Ides Stoffelsen, in 1641 con-
tained a gold hoop ring, a silver medal and chain, and a silver under-
girdle to hang keys on; a damask furred jacket, two black camlet
jackets, two doublets, one iron-gray, the other black; a blue
petticoat, a steel-gray lined petticoat, a black coarse camlet-lined
petticoat, one of Harlem stuff, a little black vest with two sleeves,
^ a pair of Damask sleeves, a reddish morning gown, not lined, four
pairs of pattens, one of Spanish leather; a purple apron and four
blue aprons, nineteen cambric caps and four linen ones, a fur cap
trimmed with beaver, nine linen handkerchiefs trimmed with lace,
two pairs of old stockings and three shifts. Pictures of fur-trimmed
jackets and of fur caps are given in Figures 103, 106, no, in.
Officials could easily be distinguished by their dress. The leather
aprons worn by labourers and craftsmen were often dyed red, and
i-lGURE Io6.
Figure 107.
w
^—^KfSBS^^^^^^^^m
at
^B^^ "^'^^r'^^^^^^m
^^M^§^- -5^^^ ^^^^^^^^^1
â– k|v, . "^^''^^II^^^^H
n
^^H
H
^^IgH
H
^^K'^^^^^^B
1
1 •?,'>• VV;;r*;i - ■■■''W^'^^S^^
Figure 108.
Figure 109.
Figure ho.
i'lGURE III.
131
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 133
when the wearer was not at work, one corner was usually tucked
under his belt.
Different concoctions of bark taught them by the Indian squaws
were used by the women to dye their homespun petticoats and short
gowns (Figure 100).
The caps, chatelaines, and gowns of the well-to-do matrons were
of costly materials and invariably of bright colours. The garments
of the men, too, were of satin, velvet, and silk, trimmed with lace and
fur. Buttons and buckles were often of gold set with precious stones.
The samare or loose jacket with "side laps" or skirts reaching
to the knee, sometimes with elbow sleeves turned back and faced,
was worn by the Dutch ladies over a waistcoat and petticoat. A
picture of one trimmed with fur is given in Figure 103. The pre-
vailing shapes of coats and hats were not unlike the English. Late
in the seventeenth century coats had long wide tails with wide cuffs.
Hats were large and low of crown (Figures 42, 104).
Dr. Jacob de Eange and his wife (New York, 1682) left lists of
their wardrobes which are documents of great value to a history
of costume.
One under petticoat with a body of red bay,
One under petticoat, scarlet
One Petticoat, red cloth with black lace
One striped stuff petticoat with black lace
Two coloured drugget petticoats with white linings,
One coloured drugget petticoat with pointed lace.
two coloured drugget petticoats with gray linings
One black silk petticoat with ash gray silk lining,
One potto-foo silk petticoat with black silk lining,
One silk potoso-a-samare with lace,
One tartanel samare with tucker
One black silk crape samare with tucker
Three flowered calico samares,
Three calico nightgowns, one flowered, two red,
One silk waistcoat, one caUco waistcoat
One pair of bodice,
Five pairs white cotton stockings, ^/^
134 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Three black love hoods,
One white love-hood
Two pair sleeves with great lace
Four cornet caps with lace
One plain black silk rain cloth cap
One black plush mask,
Four yellow lace drowlas
One embroidered purse with silver bugle and chain to the girdle, and silver
hook and eye.
One pair black pendants, gold nocks
One gold boat, wherein thirteen diamonds & one white coral chain,
One pair gold stucks or pendants each with ten diamonds.
Two diamond rings.
One gold ring with clasp beck
One gold ring or hoop bound round with diamonds
Dr. de Lange's wardrobe was abundant, but not so rich:
One grosgrained cloak lined with silk,
One black broadcloth coat.
One black broadcloth suit.
One coat lined with red serge
One black grosgrained suit
One coloured cloth waistcoat with silver buttons
One coloured serge suit with silver buttons
Three silk breeches
Three calico breeches
Three white breeches
One pair yellow hand gloves with black silk fringe
Five pairs white calico stockings
/ One pair black worsted stockings
One pair gray worsted stockings
One fine black hat, one old gray hat, one black hat.
When in 1664 the Enghsh sailed into the harbour and made
bloodless conquest of the Colony, they introduced but few changes
in the mode of living. In 1675 Manhattan was re- taken by the
Dutch, and affairs of government and life went on as before for another
year.
"The colours in the Dutch gowns were almost uniformly gay —
in keen contrast to the sad coloured garments of New England.
We hear of Madam Cornelia de Vos in a green cloth petticoat, a
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
135
red and blue 'Haarlamer' waistcoat, a pair of red and yellow sleeves,
and a purple Tooyse' apron."
Figure 121 shows a coif or cap worn en New Amsterdam. It
is made of gray and white brocade and trimmed with silver lace
of an elaboratif pgLtlift*n, -put owMSX across the top. Around the
Figure 112.
ib/if.
Figure 113.
1677.
Figure 114.
Figure 115.
Jajnet JC .
Figure 116.
face is a plaited ruffle of lace held in place by three rows of silver
wire run through the plaits.
The children, too, were gaily dressed, as we can see in the Dutch
contemporary portraits (Figures 108, 109, 132, and 133).
A leading man of New Amsterdam, a burgomaster, had at the
time of his death, near the end of the Dutch rule, this plentiful num-
Figure 117.
Figure 118.
i65?
Figure 119.
Figure 120.
ber of substantial garments: A cloth coat with silver buttons, a
stuff coat, cloth breeches, a cloth coat with gimp buttons, a black
cloth coat, a silk coat, breeches and doublet, a silver cloth breeches
and doublet, a velvet waistcoat with silver lace, a buff coat, with
silk sleeves, three grass-green cloaks, several perukes, "tets and fox-
tails after the genteelest fashion."
136
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
One romantic element in the history of New Amsterdam not found
in the other colonies is that of the pirates who carried on a vigor-
ous business at sea and brought into the shops and markets many
rich stuffs captured from the ships returning to England and France
from the East Indies. The government
made no effort to interfere with_ them,
and sometimes, as in the case of Captain
Kidd, these maritime marauders finally
settled down and became respectable
citizens. We are not surprised to read
that Captain Kidd started housekeeping
in New York with three hundred dollars'
worth of plate.
The English again conquered New
Amsterdam and, under Sir Edward
Andros, as Governor (Figure 97), it
became an English colony, and was
called New York in honour of the Duke
of York, brother of Charles II.
There were Dutch and English set-
tlements likewise in Long Island, the Jerseys, and Delaware,
more or less under the jurisdiction of the Governor of New York,
where doubtless the costumes, like the customs, reflected both
nationalities.
Figure 121.
Coif of a Dutch Matron
(from the Original Garment, late
Seventeenth Century).
THE SWEDES ON THE DELAWARE
In 1638 a colony of Swedes was sent out to America with instruc-
tions to settle the land not belonging to the Dutch and English. Select-
ing a spot on the west shore of the Delaware, they built a fort and
called the settlement New Sweden. In 1656 the Dutch sent a com-
pany from New Amsterdam to establish a trading post on the Dela-
ware, and they founded the town which is now known as New Castle.
Figure 122.
Figure 123.
Figure 124.
Figure 125.
137
L
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 139
Frequent skirmishes followed between the Swedish and the Dutch
settlers (Figures 95, 106, in, 123, 124, also 100, 105), and finally
the English claimed, by virtue of a patent from Charles II in 1664,
all the land from the west side of Connecticut River to the east side
of Delaware Bay, which was named for Thomas West, Lord Dela-
ware, one of the early Governors of Virginia; and thus all the col-
onies of America came under English rule. This was in the latter
part of the reign of Charles 11.
In Figures i, 68, and 69 we have the characteristic dress of the
English gentleman and gentlewoman of this date, and in Figures
10 1 and 102 the typical costume of a Dutch Patroon and his wife.
THE QUAKERS IN PENNSYLVANIA
When the Quakers came to Pennsylvania with William Penn,
they had not adopted any distinctive style of dress. From choice
only were the colours rather grave than gay, for no strict rules had
been formulated at this time (1682) prohibiting the use of bright
colours or trimmings by the Quakers. The sash of sky-blue silk
worn by Penn, either as a badge of office or mark of his rank, is an
agreeable note of colour. This sash is described as made of silk
network and as being of the size and style of that of a military officer.
In an old English publication we read: "This sash is now in the
possession of Thomas Kett, Esq., of Seething Hall, near Norwich." *
Shoe and stock buckles were usually of silver, and the ruffles
at neck and wrist were of linen, either plainly hemmed or trimmed
with rich lace. Heels were rather high, the toes of the shoes square.]
A gentleman of our day would seem to modem eyes very gaily dressed
in such a costume as the first followers of the benign Founder of
Philadelphia habitually wore (Figures 143, 144).
However, a certain neatness and staidness distinguished both
the men and the women from the earliest days of this Quaker colony,
* Hone's Every Day Book.
y
I40 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
although family portraits still in possession of their descendants
prove that gowns of blue and red satin were not infrequently worn
by members of the Society of Friends previous to 1700. There was
nothing of the so-called Quaker simplicity about Penn's household.
Pennsbury, his beautiful manor on the banks of the Delaware,
was furnished and maintained on a substantial and most liberal scale.
Costly silver, fine china, rich curtains and rugs made it a fitting
abode for a royal governor. The twelve-oared barge in which Penn
usually made his journeys to town was also stately and imposing.
Although the hats of the Quakers (Figures 117, 118, and 143)
were of a shape similar to those worn by King Charles and his cour-
tiers, they were put on the head with a certain rigidity, and the fact
that they were never doffed in deference to rank or the fair sex may
have added a touch of grimness and austerity to the expression of the
broad brims in striking contrast to the graceful plumed hats worn
by cavaliers and used by them to express every degree of courtesy.
" The Quaker loves an ample brim,
A hat that bows to no salaam."
In 1693 Penn, with the welfare of the province always in mind,
put into his book, "Some fruits of Solitude," a message of counsel
in matters of dress. "Choose thy cloaths by thine own eye, not
anothers. The more simple and plain they are, the better. Neither
unshapely nor fantastical, and for use and decency, not for Pride."
Mrs. Gummere, who has made an exhaustive study of Quaker
dress, says that green aprons were so m^<^h worn by Friends at this
period as to be regarded "almost as badges of Quakerism"; also
that Friends not only called their cloaks by the popish title "Car-
dinal," but wore them in red and all bright colours.
"Wigs were as generally worn by genteel Friends as by other
people" (Figures 13I1. and 135). This was the more surprising
because they religiously professed to exclude all superfluities, and
""vnnsm.
141
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 143
yet nothing could have been offered to the mind as so essentially-
useless."* In the year 1685, William Penn wrote to his steward,
James Harrison, requesting him to allow Governor Lloyd, his
deputy, the use of his wigs in his absence.
In England there were but few striking changes in the fashion-
able dress of the upper classes from the end of the reign of Charles
II to the end of the reign of William and Mary.
The straight square-cut coats were worn opening over waistcoats
of equal length reaching to the knees ; the breeches were held in place
beneath the knee by long stockings, which were drawn up over
them ; long neck-cloths of Flanders or Spanish point-lace were used ;
the shoes, the upper leather of which rose considerably above the
instep, were fastened by a small strap over it, passing through a
buckle placed rather on one side ; the hat was bent up or cocked
all round and trimmed with feathers (Figures 118, 119, 120);
fringed gloves and monstrous periwigs, which it was the fashion to
comb publicly, completed the habit of the beaux of London in the
reign of William and Mary.
"The ladies seem to have adopted some of the Dutch fashions,"
says a contemporary writer. "The stomacher appeared more formally
laced. The sleeves of the gown became straight and tight, and ter-
minated with a cuff at the elbow in imitation of those of the male
sex. Rows of flounces and furbelows, or falbalas, bordered the
petticoat, which was disclosed by the gown being looped completely
back. The head-dress was exceeding high in front, being com-
posed of a cap, the lace of which rose in three or more tiers
almost to a point above the forehead, th e hajr being combed up
and disposed in rows of wavy curls one above the other (Figure
38). Hair powder was used occasionally, but not generally. Muffs
were carried by both sexes. They were very small and orna-
mented often with large bows of ribands.
* The Quaker : A Study in Costume, by Amelia Mott Gummere.
144 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"The dress of the commonalty underwent no change" (Figures
40, 41) *
We find the same costumes in the colonies. In Tod's "History
of New York" is the following description of the fashions about
1695 (reign of William and Mary):
"Broadway on a Sabbath morning, as the bells were ringing
for Church, must have presented an animated and even brilliant
spectacle far exceeding that which modern beaux and belles pre-
sent. In these days, however, both ladies and gentlemen shone
rich as Emperor moths. These worshippers, whom we imagine
ourselves watching, come in groups moving down the wide shaded
street, some entering Trinity, others turning into Garden Street and
passing into the new Dutch Church on that thoroughfare. Both
places of worship are equally fashionable. The Dutch Church
is the wealthier, but then Trinity has the Governor's pew, and the
prestige that comes of State patronage and emolument. Let us
describe, as showing the fashions of the day, the dress of this group
bearing down abreast of the church yard. They are Nicholas Bay-
ard and Madam Bayard, William Merritt, Alderman and Madam
Merritt, and Isaac de Riemer. Bayard, who has been Secretary
of the Province, Mayor, and Colonel of the City Militia, wears a
cinnamon coloured cloth coat with skirt reaching quite to the knee,
embroidered four or five inches deep with silver lace, and lined with
sky-blue silk. His waistcoat is of red satin woven in with gold. His
breeches, of the same colour and material as his coat, are trimmed
with silver at the pockets and knees. Dove coloured silk stock-
ings and low shoes adorned with large silver buckles cover his nether
extremities. His hat, of black felt, has a wide flapping brim and
is adorned with a band of gold lace. His full-bottomed wig is plenti-
fully powdered with starch finely ground and sifted, to which burnt
alabaster or whiting has been added to give it body, and is scented
* Knight's Pictorial History of England.
145
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
147
with ambergris. A steinkirk of fine muslin encircles his neck, the
ends of which are laced and tucked into his expansive shirt bosom.
The latter is of fine holland adorned with colebatteen ruffles, the
waistcoat being left open to better display them. He carries a cane,
too, with a; gold head elegantly engraved in cypher and crown, but
the sword, with its gay sword knot, then an almost indispensable
adjunct to a gentleman's dress, in deference to the day has been
left behind. The two other gentlemen are dressed much in the
same style except that there is a pleasing variety in style and colour.
Merritt, for instance, wears a salmon coloured silk drugget coat,
with silver brocade waiitcoat and small clothes, while De Riemer
has a sagathie cloth ^fat with waistcoat and breeches of drap du
Barre.
Figure 134.
Figure 135.
Figure 136.
Periwig of Charles II,
Periwig of William III,
Campaign Wig,
' 1660.
1690.
1684.
"But if the gentlemen are thus brilliant, what is to be said of the
ladies, who are apt to lead the sterner sex in matters of personal
adornment? Instead of a bonnet. Madam Bayard wears a 'front-
age ' (commode), a sort of head-dress formed of rows of plaited mus-
lin stiffened with wire one above the other, and diminishing in size
as they rise. She, too, wears the steinkirk, or neck-cloth. The
bodice of her purple and gold atlas gown is laced over very tight
stays, and the gown itself is open in front to display the black
velvet petticoat edged with two silver orrices and high enough to
148 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
show the green silk stockings and beautiful embroidered shoes of
fine morocco."
"My high commode, my damask gown,
My lac'd shoes of Spanish leather.
A silver bodkin in my head,
And a dainty plume of feather."
— "Young Maid's Portion."
THE DRESS OF ENGLISH LAWYERS IN THE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Very little is said by the early authorities on the costumes of
lawyers and judges in the Colonies, but there are numerous indica-
tions of the fact that scarlet, the judicial colour in England, was
worn on the Colonial bench, and Martin, in his "History of the
Bench and Bar in Pennsylvania," states that undoubtedly the courts
were conducted with much of the state and formality of the Mother
Country. It will be interesting in a study of the dress of the day to
recall the complicated costumes of the English law courts, although
the pomp and display therein detailed were not even possible in the
enforced simplicity of the early Colonies. In New England, Vir-
ginia, Maryland, the Barbadoes, and the Carolinas, as well as later
in New York and even in Pennsylvania, the forms and ceremonies
of government were as similar to the English code as circumstances
permitted.
In the Southern Colonies especially it is probable that much for-
mality was observed in the dress of lawyers and judges; at all events
we do not read of any departure from the English methods of pro-
cedure in documents of the Colonies.
In a historical sketch of the English law courts by Inderwick,*
we find a description of the gradual changes in legal dress
and customs in England during the Colonial period. In the
* The King's Peace, by F. A. Inderwick.
•a-
â–¼'
i
J^'
149
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 151
time of Charles I questions relating to the attire of the common-
law judges were involved in so much doubt and surrounded with
so many contradictory precedents and traditions that the judges re-
solved to simplify matters by conference. The result of their delib-
erations was a decree dated June 6, 1635, which, although it could
not have direct application to the Colonial courts in every particu-
lar, throws important light on the ceremonies and etiquette to which
every English lawyer of that date was accustomed. We therefore
quote the extract from State Papers given by Mr. Jeffreson : *
"The judges in Term time are to set at Westminster in the Courts,
in their black or violet gowns, whether they will, and a hood of the
same colour put over their heads, and their mantles above all; the
end of the hood hanging over behind; wearing their velvet caps,
and coyfes of lawn, and cornered cap. The facing of their gowns,
hoods and man^js, is with changeable taffata; which they must
begin to wear wKi Ascension-day, being the last Thursday in Easter
Term, and ccmlnue those robes until the feast of Simon and Jude.
And Simon and Jude's day, the judges begin to wear their robes
faced with white furs of minever; and so continue that facing until
Ascension-day again.
"Upon all Holydays, which fall in the Term and are Hall dayes,
the judges sit in scarlet faced with Taffata, when Taffata facing is
to be worn, and with furs, or minever, when furs or minever are to
be worn.
"Upon the day when the Lord Mayor of London comes to West-
minster to take his oath, that day the judges come in scarlet, and
upon the fifth of November, being Gunpowder Day, unless it be
Sunday, the judges go to Westminster Abbey in scarlet to hear the
sermon, and after go to sit in Court and the two Lords Chief Justices,
and the Lord Chief Baron, have their collars of S.S. above their man-
tles for those two days.
* A Book about Lawyers, by John Cordy Jeffreson.
152 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"When the Judges go to St. Paul's to the sermon, upon any Sunday
in the Term time, or to any other pubhc church, they ought to go
in scarlet gownes; the two Lords Chief Justices and the Lord Chief
Baron in their velvet and satin tippets; and the hood is to be pinned
abroad towards the left shoulder. And if it be upon any grand
dayes, as upon the Ascension-day, Mid-summer day, All Hallows-
day, or Candlemas-day, then the two Lords Chief Justices and the
Lord Chief Baron wear collars of S.S. with long scarlet casting-hoods
and velvet and satin tippets.
"At all times when the judges go to the Council-table, or to any
assembly of the Lords in the afternoons in Term time, they ought
to go in their robes of violet or black, faced with taffata, according
as the time of wearing them doth require ; and with tippets and scar-
let casting-hoods, pinned near the left shoulder, unless it be Sunday
or Holyday, and then in scarlet. In the circuit the judges go to church
upon Sundays in the fore-noon in scarlet gownes, hoods, and man-
tles, and sit in their caps. And in the afternoons to the church in
scarlet gownes, tippet and scarlet hood, and sit in their cornered caps.
"And the first morning at the reading of the commissions, they
sit in scarlet gownes, with hoods and mantles, and in their coyfs
and cornered caps. And he that gives the charge, and delivers the
gaol, doth, or ought for the most part, to continue all that assizes
in the same robes, scarlet gown, hood, and mantle. But the other
judge, who sits upon the Nisi Prius, doth commonly (if he will)
sit only in his scarlet robe, with tippet and casting-hood; or if it
be cold he may sit in gown and hood, and mantle.
"And when the judges in the Circuit go to dine with the shireeve,
or to a publick feast, then in scarlet gowns, tippets, and scarlet
hoods; or casting off their mantle, they keep on their hood.
"The scarlet casting-hood is to be put above the tippet, on the
right side, for Justice Wolmsley and Justice Warburton, and all the
judges before, did wear them in that manner, and did declare that
153
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 155
by wearing the hood on the right side, and above the tippet, was
signified more temporal dignity; and by the tippet on the left side
only, the judges did resemble priests.
"Whenever the judges or any of them are appointed to attend
the king's majesty, they go in scarlet gowns, tippets, and scarlet
casting-hoods; either to his own presence, or at the council-table.
"The judges and sergeants when they ride circuit, are to wear
a sergeant's coat of good broad-cloth, with sleeves, and faced with
velvet. They have used of late to lace the sleeves of the sergeant's
coat thick with lace and they are to have a sumpter, and ought to
ride with six men at the least.
"Also the first Sunday of every term, and when the judges and
sergeants dine at my Lord Mayor's, or the shireeves, they are to wear
their scarlets, and to sit at Paul's with caps at the sermon.
"When the judges go to any reader's feast, they go upon the
Sunday or Holyday in scarlet; upon other days in violet, and the
sergeants go in violet, with scarlet hoods.
"When the judges sit upon Nisi Prius in Westminster, or in Lon-
don they go in violet gowns, and scarlet casting-hoods, and tippets,
upon Holydays in scarlet."
"This order," Jeffreson says, "deserves attentive perusal, for it
throws light upon departed manners, exemplifies the obsolete pomp
of the law, and recalls the days when the humblest judge of assize
was required to ride circuit with an imposing body-guard."
The author of "The King's Peace" records that "in the matter of
courts, of officers, and of costumes, the judges of the Common-
wealth differed but little from their predecessors, except that the
King's Bench was called the Upper Bench, a name by which it also
seems to have been occasionally known in previous reigns. The
Keepers of the Great Seal wore a robe described by Whitelock, the his-
torian of the epoch, as a ' handsome velvet gown ' closely resembling
that worn by Lord Bacon in the portrait in Lord Verulam's collection."
8
156
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
The same authority gives the modification of legal dress which
followed towards the close of the seventeenth century. "The Com-
mon Law judges wore their scarlet, as we know from certain peti-
tions presented to the Protector, praying that the judges who went
circuit in their scarlet, and were at times escorted by a troop of horse,
should no longer be permitted to 'affright the country with their
blood-red robes and their state and pomp.' Sergeants wore their
coifs and striped gowns; but the
Bar, under the rank of sergeant,
wore their own hair trimmed in
such device as was prescribed by
fashion and not forbidden by the
regulations of the Inn to which
they belonged. The head-dress
of the judges, the sergeants, and
the Bar had from the very earliest
periods been fixed and determined.
The judges wore the coif and vel-
vet cap over their own hair, and
with their beards and moustaches
as they thought fit. Sergeants
wore the coif, while counsel wore
a serious dress of the costume
of the period. Ruffs were in fash-
ion during the reigns of Elizabeth
and James I, when judges and counsel wore them. These were sup-
planted by a broad lace collar, which was in fashion under Charles I,
and by white linen bands under the Commonwealth. In the reign of
Charles II the monarch and people of position assumed the periwig, a
fashion imported from France, where it was patronized by Louis XIV,
and gradually left off wearing beards and moustaches. Some of the
judges, but not all, accordingly wore the judicial robes with the
Figure 142.
Sergeant-at-law, Reign of Charles II.
157
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
159
periwig in place of the coif; and this diversity of head-dress among
the judges continued during the reign of James II, when Sir Thomas
Street, one of the judges who was in office in 1688, still wore his own
hair with the coif and the black velvet cap. The Bar, being younger
than the judges, took more generally to the prevailing fashion, and
wore first the long and then the short wig. In course of time, under
William III, all classes of the community, including bishops and
clergymen, wore the long or the short
wig, judges and counsel being included
in the number; and the sergeants, to
indicate their status, wore a black
patch on a white silk ground, fastened
on to their wigs as a substitute for the
black cap and the white coif. The
lawyers, however, who followed the
public taste in assuming periwigs, failed
to follow it in leaving them ofiF. The
bishops, who continued to wear their
wigs long after the public had ceased to
do so, gave up the practice some fifty
years ago; but the judges and counsel
have continued till to-day the bands of
the Commonwealth along with the head-
dress of the Restoration, which is no
more any portion of ancient or tradi-
tionary legal costume than were the ruffs of Queen Elizabeth or the
lace collars of Charles I. And thus it happens that, by a very per-
versity of conservatism, that head-dress, which in the seventeenth
century was worn alike by kings and by courtiers, by clergymen and
by soldiers, by Jeffreys on the Bench and by Titus Gates in the dock,
has become in the nineteenth century the distinct characteristic of
the advocate and the judge. King James I, interfering with the
Figure 147.
Sergeant-at-law, Reign of James II.
i6o HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Inns of Court, as with most other of his subjects' affairs, had ordered
that barristers were not to come to the hall of their Inn with their
cloaks, boots, swords, spurs, or daggers, showing their ordinary
habits were those of the gentlemen of the period, and further that
none were to be admitted into the Society who were not gentlemen
by descent. These directions were repeated by Charles I, and seem
to have been very generally followed, and it was not, I conceive, till
the middle of King Charles' reign, if not later, that counsel under
the rank of sergeants, when employed in court, took to wearing silk
or stuff gowns, and thus became 'gentlemen of the long robe.' "
I feel obliged to quote these items of legal costume and customs
in full, not being able to determine with exactness how nearly they
were followed in the Colonies in the seventeenth century. In Figure
127 a picture from a contemporary print is given of a lawyer in his
wig and parliament. The illustrations (Figures 142 and 147) are
also taken from authorities of the time. Much has been said in
print of the circuit and the county courts. It is well known that all
the pomp and dignity were observed that those occasions permitted
in the Colonies, but very grave offences and questions of State were
carried before the court in England.
THE GERMAN SETTLERS IN PENNSYLVANIA
1683-1790
The Mennonites, or German Quakers, who settled Germantown
in Pennsylvania under the hospitable encouragement of Penn (1683),
were speedily followed to America by other German sects from the
Palatinate or the low countries on the Rhine. They were the last
people to found colonies in the New World, for as a race they had
but little of the spirit of adventure in their composition.
Well equipped with implements for farming, the emigrants care-
fully selected the fertile country near the Blue Mountains, and, once
established as colonists, they were joined by large numbers of their
i-IGURE 148.
JlGUKE 149.
Figure 150.
Figure 151.
161
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 163
countrymen. In 1703, it is said there were nearly three hundred
thousand Germans in Penn's province. At the time of the Revolu-
tion they warmly supported the struggle for independence-
Coming chiefly from the low countries along the Rhine, their
costumes were not especially picturesque, but they were distinctive
in character, and the fashion of them changed less frequently than
in some other parts of Germany, so that for many years after their
arrival in America they wore the quaint caps and head-dresses,
clumsy boots, and odd looking cloaks of an earlier period.*
Not only in Pennsylvania, but in New York, Maryland, New Jer-
sey, Virginia, the Carolinas and Georgia, the Germans also founded
pastoral settlements.
The clothing of the new settlers consisted of "home-made cloth,
woven from tow, made from flax grown on the virgin soil." Their
costume did not admit of much change, and the men were dressed
chiefly in shirt, trousers, and coat. In warm weather the shirt and
trousers sufficed; in cold weather an additional top coat was worn
for protection. The women wore short full skirts with dark bodices
laced over coarse white shifts. | Shoes were made to last a long time,
and were worn only when absolutely necessary. Cobblers travelled
through the country among the settlers and mended their shoes,
in that way procuring a livelihood.
There were various sects among the German colonists: The
Dunkers, whose doctrine was very much the same as the Mennonites,
who still wear a peculiar costume; the Schoenkfelders from Silesia,
who emigrated to Pennsylvania in 1734; the Moravians, who came
to Georgia in 1735 and founded in 1790 a large and important settle-
ment at Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, where they still practice the pic-
turesque rites of their doctrine. The Moravians have many interest-
ing customs, but their costume is decidely conservative, and resembles
the accepted Quaker dress in sobriety of colour and simplicity of cut.
* See Trachten der Volker, by A. Kretschmer.
^
1 64
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
A Moravian community was divided into a number of choirs or
bands. One object carefully kept in view was the avoidance of
all unnecessary adornment in dress. Among other things, jewelry,
lace, parasols, and fans were forbidden. The bonnets worn by
the Sisters were usually of white straw with plain ribbon, the colour
of which formed the distinction of the choir. White was worn by
the widows, blue by the married women, rose colour by the unmar-
ried, and red by girls from fourteen to
eighteen years of age. The male choirs
were not distinguished by any badges, but
they all wore very simple clothing, generally
gray or brown. Mourning was never worn,
as it was thought that death, or "returning
to one's native land," as Zinzendorf called
it, was not a proper subject for sorrow.
Two curiously fashioned palls used for
the funerals of children are still preserved
with the archives of the Moravians at Lititz. They are made of
white damask linen and the inscription:
"Jesus er Mein Heiland lebt
Ich wird auch
Das Leben schauen,"
is embroidered thereon in ribbon gathered in a scallop pattern to
form letters. They are bound around the edges with a broader
ribbon — pink for the girls and blue for the boys. Similar palls were
used for adults. A minute pillow used at infant baptisms is also
to be seen. A wedding dress is still preserved of white satin trimmed
with gauze roses and ribbon- work like the bag in Figure 153. It
has a short waist and little puffed sleeves and was worn about 1790.
The lady who wore it had also a white gauze shawl made to wear
three-cornered-wise, with only one corner embroidered in an elab-
orate pattern, which she wore with a black velvet dress. She is
Figure 152.
Moravian Coif (from an
Original Garment).
Figure 153
Figure 154.
Figure 155.
Figure 156.
165
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
167
described as attending church in this garb, accompanied by a page
carrying her train and a foot-stove.
A portrait of Count Zinzendorf and also one of the Countess
are in possession of a direct descendant in Philadelphia. The wife
wears a close-fitting cap with ribbons of blue (the distinctive trim-
ming for a Moravian matron) (Figure 151) tied under her chin.
The unmarried women were called Sisters. They dressed usually
in white with a "nice handkerchief" pinned about the shoulders
and a close-fitting cap with rose-pink ribbons, the hair all brushed
back out of sight.
Figure 157.
Figure 158.
Moravian Cap of Lawn Worn over the Coif.
Before the Revolution, earthenware, paper, and linen were made
at the cloister at Ephrata, Pennsylvania. In the Sister-House there
may be seen at the present day the blocks of wood used instead of
irons for smoothing linen. In Figures 155 and 156 are shown pic-
tures of two white satin note cases, which were worked before 1790
for birthday gifts, each intended to hold a roll of bank-notes. The
initials are done in hair and the flowers in silk.
Count Lemcke, the friend of Zinzendorf, brought over the first
piano used in America. It was small enough to be carried under
the arm, and he is said to have carried it with him when invited
to evening parties. This piano may now be seen in the Smithsonian
Institute at Washington.
i68 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Count Zinzendorf, the promoter and founder of the Pennsyl-
vania settlement of Moravians, lived for a time in Philadelphia, and,
according to his portraits, dressed simply in the fashion of his day
in Germany. The long coat with many buttons and no collar or flaps,
white shirt sleeves gathered into a band at the wrist, and a cravat
or stock of plain white linen remind one of the portraits of William
Penn about fifty years earlier. A portrait of him in a preaching
gown is given in Figure 148.
The dress of the Seventh Day Baptists is peculiar and interesting.
It consisted of a sort of cassock over which hung a stole, both back
and front, and a close-fitting hood with large capes, or flaps. A
picture of one of these hoods may be seen in a scholarly book, "The
German Pietists in Provincial Pennsylvania," by Mr. Julius F.
Sachse, where the curious customs of the German religious com-
munities before 1700 are graphically described.
J'lGUKL l^(.).
\
PART II
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
WOMEN'S DRESS
1 700- 1 800
During the Time of
Queen Anne, George I, II, and III of England,
Presidents Washington and Adams
of the United States
CAPRICES OF FASHION.
"The fickle head-dress sinks, and now aspires
A towery front of lace on branching wires;
The curling hair in tortur'd ringlets flows,
Or round the face in labour'd order grows.
How shall I soar, and on unwearying wing
Trace varying habits upward to their spring?
What force of thought, what numbers can express
The inconstant equipage of female dress?
How the strait stays the slender waist constrain.
How to adjust the mantua's sweeping train?
What fancy can the petticoat surround.
With the capacious hoop of whalebone bound?
But stay presumptuous Muse! nor boldly dare
The toilette's sacred mysteries declare;
Let a just distance be to beauty paid;
None here must enter but the trusty maid.
Should you the wardrobe's magazine rehearse,
And glossy manteaus rustle in thy verse;
Should you the rich brocaded suit unfold.
Where rising flowers grow stiff with frosted gold,
The dazzling Muse would from her subject stray,
And in a maze of fashions lose her way."
— " The Fan:'
'75
Women's Dress
1 700-1 800
"SnuflE or the fan supply each pause of chat."
N THE first half of the eighteenth century, which
was the most prosperous and comfortable period
of Colonial life in America, fashion was a con-
spicuous element.
Merchant ships from China and the Indies
brought to all the seaport towns rich silks,
tissues, and embroidered gauzes, as well as
beautiful china and tapestry. These im-
ported stuffs were known by odd sounding
names, corruptions of the places of their
manufacture. Thus, for instance, we have
Nankeen, made in Nankin, China; and calico,
originally a silken material first imported from Calicut in India.
Uninterrupted-^intercourse with England and France enabled
the Colonists to keep up with the prevailing fashions in dress, which
at that time became most whimsical and capricious. But as there
were many people in England who, like Mrs. Hardcastle, "only en-
joyed London at second-hand," and depended on the letters of their
friends for descriptions of the fashions, so many of the leading families
in the Colonies also living remote from seaport towns were content
to follow at a distance the bewildering transitions prescribed by
la mode.
177
Figure 161.
A Sacque, Early Eight-
eenth Century.
178 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Before the days of fashion plates, jointed dolls were dressed in
the latest style and sent from Paris to London every month. Not
quite so often, but at regular intervals, similar dolls were sent to the
Colonies. The mantua-makers of the day copied them for their
fashionable patrons. In "The Spectator," the anxiety caused by
the delay in the arrival of one of these dolls in London is described:
"I was almost in despair of ever seeing a model from the dear country,
when last Sunday I overheard a lady in the next pew to me whisper .
to another that at the Seven Stars in King Street, Covent Garden,
there was a Mademoiselle completely dressed just come from Paris.
I was in the utmost impatience during the remaining part of the
service, and as soon as ever it was over, having learnt the milliner's
address, I went directly to her house in King Street, but was told
that the French lady was at a person of quality's in Pall Mall and
would not be back again until late that night. I was therefore obliged
to renew my visit this morning and had then a full view of the dear
puppet from head to foot. You cannot imagine how ridiculously
I find we have all been trussed up during the war and how infinitely
the French dress excels ours."
This puppet, we are told, was dressed "in a cherry coloured gown
and petticoat with a short 'working' apron, her hair was cut and
divided very prettily with several ribbons stuck up and down in it.
The milliner assured me that her complexion was such as is worn
by all the ladies of the best fashion in Paris. Her head was extremely
high. Her necklace was of an immoderate length, being tied be-
fore in such a manner that the two ends hung down to her girdle."
Though the fashion dolls were longer in their voyage to the Colonies,
they were apparently expected with the same eagerness described
by the London satirist. Could the representative of her tribe whose
portrait may be seen in Figures i66 and 167 speak, she would surely
tell us that she received a warm welcome and was entertained by
the people of "the best fashion in Philadelphia." Her costume
179
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
I8l
proclaims that she arrived during the reign of George I, probably
about 1720. Mrs. Vanderbilt, in her "Social History of Flat bush,"
says: "We have a vivid remembrance of the old age of one of these
fashion-dolls which had been sent from Paris to a fashionable mantua-
maker in New York. When the dress was changed as to style, the
dressmaker sold the doll to one of her customers, and 'Miss Nancy
Dawson' passed into the obscurity of humbler dollies, who had never
been sent as ministers plenipotentiary from the Court of Fashion."
V
REIGN OF QUEEN ANNE
"Tho' stiff with hoop
And armed with ribs of whale.
" Invention we bestow,
To change a flounce, or add a furbelow." *
Queen Anne came to the throne of England in 1702, and for the
first eight or nine years of her reign, dress differed but little from
that introduced under William and Mary (Figures 38, 42), but in
1 71 1 two striking changes are noted. The extravagantly high head-
dress and cap, the "tower and commode," so scathingly satirized
in "The Spectator," gave way to a simple arrangement of natural
hair, noticeable in the portraits by Knellerf of Queen Anne and the
ladies of her Court. This change is applauded by Addison, who
says: "I remember several ladies who were once near seven feet
high, that at present want some inches of five."
We read that these gigantic commodes held their place at Ver-
sailles in spite of the disapproval of the old monarch, who protested
in vain against towering head-dresses. In 17 14, two English ladies
with their hair worn low having been presented at the French Court,
Louis XIV said to the wives of the courtiers, "If Frenchwomen
were reasonable beings they would at once give up their ridiculous
* Rape of the Lock. t Born 1646; died 1723.
i82 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
head-dresses and wear their hair in the English fashion." How
could the court ladies bear to be called "ridiculous," especially by
their king? They very soon made their appearance in the king's
circle with their hair dressed low.* For once, at least, England
set the fashion for France — a pleasing turn of the tables!
The next transformation was the hoop, invented by a mantua-
maker named Selby, in 1711, and destined in one form or another
to hold its sway over feminine taste for many years. Dresses which
had been looped back over contrasting petticoats were hung out over
these most awkward inventions. At first they were rather flat in
front and in the back (Figure 162), projecting out on each side over
the hips to such an extent that the wearer was often obliged to enter
a door sideways. Mr. Wingfield, in his "Notes on Civil Costume
in England," remarks that "in a sedan chair a lady would some-
times pull up her hoop on both sides of her like wings." As sedan
chairs were used in all the English colonies of America, fashionable
colonial dames probably resorted to the same expedient.
The sacque, the name in use for many years to designate the
loose over-dress, at this time hung in wide plaits from the shoulders
to the ground over the large hooped petticoat. It was open in front
and worn over a petticoat and stomacher of the same material,
although a contrast of colour and of material was also popular. This
garment was invariably worn by women of fashion in England
and France, and in the Colonies for at least half of the century. It
survived several generations of change. At first it was long and
full as in Figure 161, then short to the knees and very full (Figure
170); later it became a graceful, stately garment, transformed by
a few curved lines and worn over a laced stomacher and satin
petticoat trimmed with flounces (Figure 204). This charming variety
of sacque is usually called a "Watteau." Sacques were made in
all materials and worn by all classes until 1777.
* History of Fashion in France, by Challomcl.
i83
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
185
"Let your gown be a sacque, blue, yellow or green,
And frizzle your elbows with ruffles sixteen;
Furl oflf your lawn apron w,ith flounces in rows,
Puff and pucker up knots on your arms and your toes;
Make your petticoat short, that a hoop eight yards wide
May decently show how your garters are ty'd.
But mount on French heels when you go to a ball,
'Tis the fashion to totter, and show you can faU."*
/
Figures 168 and 169 show the style of hood in general wear by
women of all ranks from 1690 to 1750. The original hood, lent
Figure i68. Figure 169.
A Camlet Hood; taken from an Original Garment of about 1702. Reign of Queen Anne.
to US for this book, is made of drab camlet and lined with silk to
match, for it belonged to a Colonial Quakeress. The fashionable
dames of that time made them of gay silk, according to contemporary
* The Beau's Receipt for a Lady's Dress.
J
i86 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
authority. The hood, which in the previous reign was commonly
of black silk, velvet, or sarsenet, we. now find of various colours ; and
cherry coloured hoods were all the rage in 171 2. A group of ladies
in coloured silk hoods at the theatre is thus described: "One of them
was blue, another yellow and another philomot; the fourth was of a
pink colour and the fifth was of a pale green. I looked upon this
little parti-coloured assembly as upon a bed of tulips."*
From advertisements of this date (17 12) in England, we can form
some idea of the garments sent to the Colonies. In one of the papers
we read of a black silk petticoat with a red and white calico border,
a red and dove coloured damask gown flowered with large trees, a
yellow satin apron trimmed with white Persian muslin, and head-
cloths with crow-foot edging.
An Isabella coloured kincob gown flowered with green and gold;
a dark coloured cloth gown and petticoat with two silver orrices;
a purple and gold atlas gown; a scarlet and gold atlas petticoat edged
with silver; an underpetticoat edged with gold; a black velvet petti-
coat; an aflejah petticoat striped with green, gold and white; and
clogs laced with silver are also mentioned.
In the same year were advertised "a green silk knit waistcoat
with gold and silver flowers all over it, and fourteen yards of gold
and silver thick lace on it; and a petticoat of rich strong flowered
satin, red and white all in great flowers or leaves, and scarlet flowers
with black specks brocaded in, raised high like velvet or shag."f
A lady's riding suit of this period is described as consisting of
"a coat and waistcoat of blue camlet trimmed and embroidered
with silver, with a petticoat of the same stuff, by which alone her sex
was recognized, as she wore a smartly cocked beaver hat, edged with
silver and rendered more sprightly by a feather, while her hair, curled
and powdered, hung to a considerable length down her shoulders,
tied like that of a rakish young gentleman, with a long streaming
* '^^^ Spectator. f Pictorial History of England.
sFlGURE 170.
187
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 189
scarlet riband." * But powder was not in general use by ladies at
this time.
In Queen Anne's day patches meant more than one would sup-
pose; they were not used simply to enhance the beauty of the com-
plexion, but were worn as political badges. The ladies with Whig
sympathies wore these patches on the left-hand side of the face, the
Tories on the right. Mr. Andrew Lang has suggested that a revival
of this fashion in England during the South African War would have
greatly facilitated conversation. "If Pro-Boer ladies would only
profess their opinion by way of patches, we should know where we
are and could make no such mistakes as now occasionally occur in
conversation."
Patch boxes (Figure 159) were carried, filled with patches of
every shape; under the lid of the box was placed a small glass to assist
the fair lady in adjusting them. These boxes were made of silver,
ivory, and tortoise shell, and were often, like the snuff-boxes of the
same period, very costly.
"That little modish machine," as Addison called the fan, was
an indispensable article of fashionable dress. Flory, in his "History
of the Fan," says: "We can scarcely imagine the rouged and pow-
dered beauty of the eighteenth century without the fascinating trin-
ket in her hand. Both in England and in France it had gradually
become the mirror of the life and pleasure of the time. Political
and social events, literature, music, and the fashions and follies of
the day, were depicted upon them. Some were covered with words
and bars from operas, or with scenes from popular plays, others
bore the rules of various games, within decorative borders of playing
cards." A picture of a fan painted by Gamble representing a scene
from Ovid is given in Figure 241. "There were calendar fans,
fortune-telling fans, fans with riddles and charades, political and
social caricatures." One is noted representing the separation of
America from England.
* The Spectator.
Figure 171. — Shows a gown of yellow damask brocade worn over a blue quilted
satin petticoat. Reign of George I.
Figure 172. — Shows a white satin wedding gown worn by Mrs. St. Clair in
Philadelphia, 1760.
Figure 173. — Picture of a blue lutestring gown worn by the same lady.
Figure 174. — Is a very interesting dress of buflF chine silk-; with coloured flowers,
worn by Lady Stuart in the Barbadoes Colony in the reign of Queen Anne.
(Photographed from original garments.)
Figure 171.
LiGUKE 172.
Figure 173.
Figure 174.
191
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 193
About 1720 temple spectacles came into use; afterward "bridge
spectacles," without any side supporters and held on solely by nip-
ping the bridge of the nose. Perspective glasses, with long handles
of tortoise shell or silver, were carried by gallants in London,
A mask of black velvet (Figure 194) was often worn in winter
with a silver mouth-piece to keep it on ; green silk masks were used
in summer for riding in the sun on horseback, while for young girls
in the Colonies they were made of linen and tied on under their hoods.
REIGN OF GEORGE II
At this time hooped petticoats were less exaggerated. Scarlet
cloaks with hoods, called ''cardinals," were worn out-of-doors
(Figure 175). The hair was still worn low and was often covered by
a much frilled cap or flat hat of moderate dimensions (Figure 195).
During the next decade the caps became smaller, but the hats larger
(Figure 216).
The use of powder, according to Mr. Wingfield, was never
general in England, although it was worn on all occasions of cere-
mony in the reigns of George II and George III by both sexes,
and was extremely fashionable from 1760 to 1776; but it was not
habitually worn in home life with everyday costumes.
In 1735 we notice a change in the shape of the hoop, which was
now made to project all around like the wheel farthingale, the petti-
coat being worn short and the gown without a train (Figure 196).
Lace tippets were now much worn, some having diamond solitaires
to hook them together. Very broad laced tuckers, with diamond
necklaces and earrings, were popular. Diamond and paste buckles
were also very fashionable.
Mrs. Delany, who has been called not only the woman of fashion
in her own age, but "the woman of fashion of all ages," records some
charming costumes. The following is dated 1738 (when hoops were
large):
194
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"After much persuasion and many debates within myself I con-
sented to go with Lady Dysart to the Prince's birthday, humbly
dres't in my pink Damask, white and gold handkerchief, plain green
ribbon and Lady Sun-
derland's buckles for
my stays." The stays,
evidently meaning the
stomacher, were on this
occasion straps of white
silk covered with a lac-
ing through which a
handkerchief was
passed. This costume
is not unlike the yellow
damask gown (Figures
164 and 183) worn in
Philadelphia in 1740.
Head-dresses at this
time were made of three
lace ruffles tucked to
stand up in front.
"Caskades of ribands"
and artificial flowers
were used as trimming.
They were worn over
powdered hair pinned
up quite short in the
back, and sometimes large curls were worn hanging down on the
shoulder, as in Figure 198.
In another letter Mrs. Delany says: "I go to-morrow to pay my
salutations to their Royal Highnesses at Carlton House in my Irish
green Damask and my worked head; on the birthday, which is Tues-
/
/
Figure 175.
Lady in a Cardinal (after Hogarth, Early Eighteenth
Century).
I
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
195
day next, in a flowered silk, I bought since I came to town, of a
pale deer-coloured ground, the flowers mostly purple, and mixed with
white feathers. I think it extremely pretty and very modest." The
latter is not unlike the Colonial gown represented in Figures
218, 230. "Ruffles are much the same, large at the elbows and
pretty narrow at the bottom. I think they pin their gowns rather
closer than before; hoops are as flat as if made of pasteboard, and as
stiff, the shape sloping from the hips and spreading at the bottom
(Figures 164 and 183), enormous but not so ugly as the square hoops
(Figure 162). There are hopes that they will soon be reduced to a
very small size. Heads are variously dressed, pompons with some
accompaniment of feathers, ribbons or flowers; lappets in all sorts
of curli-murlis ; long hoods are worn close under the chin, or tied
with bows and ends behind."
Figure 176.
Figure 177.
Caps, 1744.
Figure 178. Figure 179.
FlGXTRE 180.
Caps, 1745.
Figure 181.
Long aprons were worn in 1740, then short ones, and before 1752
long ones again. In the same year (1740) we hear of a successor to
the hood under the name of "capuchin."
The description which Mrs. Delany gives of a marvellous toilet
worn by the Duchess of Queensbury, in 1741, is worth transcribing
as a curious specimen of needle- work. "It was of white satin em-
broidered, the bottom of the petticoat brown hills covered with all
sorts of weeds, and every breadth had an old stump of a tree that
ran up almost to the top of the petticoat broken and ragged and
worked with brown chenille, round which twined nasturtiums, honey-
suckle, periwinkle and afl sorts of twining flowers, which spread
196 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
and covered the petticoat; vines with the leaves variegated as you
have seen them by the sun, all rather smaller than nature, which
made them look very light. The robings and facings were like green
banks covered with all sorts of weeds, and the sleeves and rest of
the gown loose twining branches of the same sort as those on the pet-
ticoat. Many of the leaves were finished with gold, and part of the
stumps of the trees looked like gilding of the sun. I never saw a
piece of work so prettily fancied and am quite angry with myself
for not having the same thought, for it is infinitely handsomer than
mine and could not have cost much more."
French curls (Figure 196), the mode in 1745, were described
as looking like eggs strung in order on a wire tied around the
head. They were not always false, but could be made of the
natural hair. The crtpe toupee was also a contemporary fashion.
Later came in the Italian curls (Figure 184), which had the effect
of scollop shells and were arranged back from the face in several
shapes. In the tete de mouton, or tete moutonee, the hair was curled
close all over the back of the head.
In the summer of 1745 Gipsy straw hats appeared, being tied
under the chin (Figure 195).
We find that in 1745 the hoop had increased at the sides and di-
minished in front; and a pamphlet was published in that year en-
titled "The Enormous Abomination of the Hoop Petticoat as the
Fashion now is" (Figure 184). The hoop of this period was a great
bell-shaped petticoat or skirt of the dress stiffened by whalebone.
The material was placed directly upon it, so that, being a part of the
gown itself, it was customary to speak of "a damask hoop" or "a
brocade hoop."
Deportment was quite as important as dress in the fashionable
world of the eighteenth century. Those were the days of back-
boards and of most unyielding stays.
The expression "she bridles well," which occurs in letters of this
197
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 199
time (1747), alludes to a manner of carriage which is now almost
unknown. "One of the first lessons in deportment at that period
was to hold up the head on entering a room, and to keep the chin
in, which is expressed by 'bridling,' and then, having curtseyed
at the door, to advance deliberately towards the person who had the
first claim to greeting — to sink low gradually — to rise slowly and
gracefully."*
The Boston ''Evening Post" advertised in November, 1755,
"horse hair quilted coats to wear with negligees."
It is difficult to determine the exact limitations of a negligee.
1721+ 175°+-
Figure i86. Figure 187.
Hooped Petticoats.
It was worn in full dress and was another variety of the sacque. The
advertisement quoted suggests an outdoor garment, a quilted coat
worn under it for warmth.
" Put on her a sheperdee
A short sack or negligee
Ruffled high to keep her warm
Eight or ten about an arm."f
A garment which became very popular about 1756 was a cloak
made of satin or velvet, black or any colour, lined or trimmed with
silk, satin, or fur, according to the fancy, with slits for the arms to
* Mrs. Woolsey's Notes to Autobiography of Mrs. Delany.
t Poem printed in New York, 1756.
200
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
pass through, and a hood Kke a capuchin. These cloaks were worn
by everybody and were called pompadours (Figure 216).
Night-gowns or night-rails correspond to our modern dressing-
gowns and were worn without hoops. One is represented in Figure
243 with a short cape over a skirt instead of a sacque.
An historian of Connecticut tells us that "the dress of the middle
period can hardly be praised for its simplicity or economy. In the
upper circles it was rich and extravagant, and among the females
Figure i88.
Stays, 1770.
of all classes there was a passion for gathering and hoarding articles
of attire. It was an object of ambition to have a chest full of linen,
a pillow-beer of stockings, and other articles in proportion, laid by."
The inventory of the effects of Mrs. White of Norwich,* taken
August 16, 1757, contained "gowns of brown duroy, striped stuff,
plain stuff, black silk, crape, calico and blue camlet; a scarlet cloak,
blue cloak, satin flowered mantle, and furbelow scarf; a woolen
* History of Norwich, by F. M. Caulkins.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
20I
Figure il
Clog, Eighteenth Century (from an Old Print).
petticoat with calico border, a camlet riding-hood, long silk hood,
velvet hood, white hood trimmed with lace, a silk bonnet, and nineteen
caps; a cambrick laced handkerchief, silk do, linen do, sixteen hand-
kerchiefs in all; a muslin laced apron, flowered laced apron, green
taffety apron, fourteen aprons
in all; a silver riband, silver
girdle and blue girdle, four
pieces of flowered satin, a par-
cel of crewel, and a woman's
fan; a gold necklace, death's
head gold ring, plain gold ring,
sett of gold sleeve buttons, gold
locket, silver hair peg, silver cloak clasps, and a stone button set in
silver; a large silver tankard, a silver cup with two handles, a cup
with one handle, and a large silver spoon."
We know that a salmon-coloured tabby
made with a sacque and coat (probably,
in this case, waistcoat or stomacher) was
the correct thing in 1759, as an order for
one for his wife is preserved in Washing-
ton's own writing. In the same order we
read of "a cap, handkerchief and ruffles of
Brussels or Point lace to be worn with the above negligee, to cost ;i^2o."
Also two fine flowered aprons
One pair women's white silk hose
Four pairs thread hose
Six pairs women's fine cotton hose
One pair black satin shoes y
One pair white satin shoes of smallest 5's
Four pairs calamanco shoes
One fashionable hat or bonnet
Six pairs women's best kid gloves
Eight pairs women's best mits
One dozen round silk laces
Figure 190.
A Patten (from the Origi-
nal in the Museum at Memo-
rial Hall, Philadelphia).
202
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
One black mask
One dozen most fashionable pocket handkerchiefs
One piece of narrow white satin ribbon with pearl edge
Four pieces of binding tape
Six thousand miniken pins
Six thousand short whites
Six thousand corking pins
One thousand hair pins.
The following note from Washington's manuscripts shows the
relationship between a sacque and a night-gown: "Mrs. Wash-
ington sends home a green sack to get cleaned, or fresh dyed of the
same colour; made into a handsome sack again, would be her choice,
but if the cloth wont afford that, then to be thrown into a genteel
night-gown."* The latter being the old-fashioned name for a
dressing-gown.
REIGN OF GEORGE III
In 1760 gowns began to be worn with a close-fitting bodice ending
in a long point in the back (Figures 209, 210, 211, and 213), the
skirt sewn on with a multiplicity of fine
gathers, still opening over a petticoat, the
latter often beautifully quilted. Aprons
Figure 191. were worn, too, according to the dictates
Riding-hat of Fawn-col- ^^ ^^ Occasionally stomacher and
oured Felt. The original is -' •'
in the Museum at Memorial apron matched, as in Figure 206. Sleeves
Hall, Philadelphia. Reigns of .,, . 1 • 1 m e ^
George II and III. wcrc Still trimmed With ruffles 01 lace,
but often were edged with narrow cuffs
turned back, the lace falling from underneath (Figures 205 and 230).
Every lady of fashion wore an etui, or ornamental case, hanging
from the waist, intended to hold thimble, scissors, and scent bottle.
The snuff-box, the pomander, a box with perforated holes in the lid
and used for perfumes, and the pouncet box, of a similar nature, were
among the elegant accessories of the toilet of the eighteenth century
* Writings of George Washington, edited by Wm. C. Ford.
W X) o
o :2
t« p
^ <U 0)
^ o
"^ ^ C5
^ a;
?^ r-i t«
bb fe OS
o
o
,£3
O
U
-t-j w
^ U
3
O
*S
'bb
a
3
O
Ah -g
a
o 'y
3
^ Q
o\ o
O U o
203
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 205
for both sexes. (See Figure 159.) Physicians made use of the po-
manders to carry disinfectants; sometimes they had them inserted in
the handle of their canes, and a tap on the floor as they entered a
sick-room would scatter the powder through the atmosphere.
The recipe books of the time, written by each housewife for her
own use and pleasure, have in many cases been handed down to
posterity. Turning over the yellowed leaves of one written in the
careful penmanship of the eighteenth century by a notable New York
dame, an aroma of agreeable spices seems to
emanate from the pages as we read the following:
"Pot Pourri
"Dry your violets in a sunny window. Have
ready a quarter of a pound of finely powdered
bay salt. When the roses are out, gather all
kinds, and dry in the same way. Then add
them to the violets, putting layers of salt be- figx;reTq4
tween each layer. a Riding-mask, Eight-
/-ii iiiri 1 11 eenth Century.
"Gather a good deal of lavendar, also the
leaves of the verbena, and, if possible, myrtle and orange blossoms.
After all the flowers and salt have filled the jar, its contents should
be constantly stirred for a month."
Here is another recipe from the same book:
"Take a Seville orange, and stick it as full as possible of cloves.
Put it in a jar. Pick the rose leaves when full blown, but before they
are ready to drop, and spread the petals to dry in the sun. When
dry mix them with a little bay salt, some cinnamon, ground cloves,
lemon peel, and powdered musk. Stir for some time until well mixed."
Old India jars filled with pot pourri stood in almost every house,
and lent a subtle fragrance to the draperies and carpets. This custom
was of the same origin as the use of pomanders.
Research on the subject of wedding veils at this period has pro-
2o6 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
duced nothing more satisfactory than the following passage from
Mr. J. Cordy Jeffreson's ''Brides and Bridals":
"The origin of the English bride's veil is one of those disputed
questions which will never be settled. What of late years became
the most conspicuous feature of her costume may be nothing
more than a milliner's substitute for the flowing tresses, which in old
times concealed not a few of the bride's personal attractions and
covered her face when she knelt at the altar. This opinion is
supported by the fact that Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James
I, was not thought to require an artificial veil, since nature had
given her such an abundance of circumfluent hair. Heyward says
of this wedding:
'At length the blushing bride comes with her
hair disheveled aslant her shoulders.'
"It may be a mere amplification of the coif which medieval brides
used to wear between the garland and the hair, of such a coif, for
instance, as Margaret Tudor wore under the coronet at her wedding
with the King of Scotland."
In the early years of the reign of George III the veil and wreath fell
so completely out of vogue that they were for a time seldom seen on
brides of the "best ton." Horace Walpole, an earnest social reformer
in all trivial matters, was pleased by the neglect of old matrimonial
forms. He mentions that his niece Maria had never appeared more
lovely than when he watched the alternate blushes and paleness of
her unveiled face during her celebration of marriage with the Earl
of Waldegrave. The bride wore a hat and a white and silver gown,
and when the marriage service had been performed in the drawing-
room of a private mansion in Pall Mall by Dr. Keppel, the bridal
party sat down to dinner, which was over at eight o'clock in the eve-
ning. "It was," wrote Walpole to George Montague, "as sensible
a weddmg as ever was." This wedding took place in the last year
of the reign of George II.
207
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
209
In the Colonies the veil does not seem to have been a necessary
article of a bride's costume. Several beautiful wedding gowns which
have been handed down with care
from early in the eighteenth cen-
tury are of coloured brocade or
damask (Figures 184, 213).
Orange-blossoms were not
used as wedding flowers until a
comparatively modern date,
although orange trees were grow-
ing in England at the time of
Henry VIII.
We read of an English bride *
in 1769 who wore "a sacque and
petticoat of the most expensive
brocaded white silk, resembling
network enriched with small
flowers, which displayed in the
variations of the folds a most deli-
cate shade of pink; a deep and
pointed stomacher trimmed with
gimp; sleeves closely fitted the
elbow, from which hung three
point-lace ruffles of great depth ;
a handkerchief of the same lace
covered the shoulders, fastened
in front with a large bow of white
satin ribbon and a bunch of deli-
cate pink rosebuds. A triple row
of pearls tied behind with a nar-
row white satin ribbon completed
Figure 199.
Maid in Sacque, Apron, and Clogs.
.Eighteenth Century.
Middle
* Mrs. Joseph Nollekens, wife of the noted sculptor.
2IO
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
I
the costume, although I beUeve a lace apron, previously worn by
the bride's mother, was put on, but the fashion of wearing aprons
in full dress had gone out at that date.
"The hair was arranged over a high cushion, with large curls on
either side, and ornamented by a small cap of point lace with plaited
flaps to match the ruffles in the sleeves. 'sThe shoes were like the gown
and were ornamented with spangles arid square buckles with heels
three and one-half inches in height."
Lady Susan O'Brien, living in the Colonies, was kept informed
by her cousin. Lady Sarah Lennox, of the latest changes in fashion in
England. In 1766 she says:*
"I think that by degrees the French dress is coming into fashion,
tho' 'tis almost impossible to make the ladies understand that heads
bigger than one's body are ugly; it is growing the fashion to have
the heads moutonee. I have cut off my hair and find it very con-
venient in the country without powder, because my hair curls
naturally I wear it very often with three rows of curls
behind and the rest smooth with a fringe toupe and a cap ; that is, en
paresseuse. Almost every body powders now, and wears a little hoop.
"Hats are mostly left off; the hair down on the forehead belongs
to the short waists [waists were apparently very long at the time
this letter was written, 1766], and is equally vulgar with poppons
[or pompons], trimmings, beads, garnets, flying caps and false hair.
"To be perfectly genteel, you must be dressed thus: Your hair must
not be cut off, for 'tis much too pretty, but it must be powdered, curled
in very small curls and neat, but it must be high before and give your
head the look of a sugar loaf a little. The rest of the hair must be
drawn up straight and not frizzled at all for half an inch above the
rest. You must wear no cap and only little, little flowers dab'd in the
left side; the only feather permitted is a black or white suUane perched
up on the left side and your diamond feather against it (Figure 218).
* Lady Sarah Lennox to Lady Susan O'Brien in America, January 9th, 1766.
P'IGURE 200'.
Figure 201.
Figure 202.
Figure 203.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 213
"A broad puffed ribbon collier (Figure 206), with a tippet ruff,
or only a little black handkerchief very narrow over the shoulders;
your stays very high and pretty tight at bottom, your gown trimmed
with the same straight down the robings, and a narrow flounce at bot-
tom to button with a compere to be loose at the fore part of your
robing. The sleeves long and loose, the waist very long, the flounces
and ruffles of a decent length not too long, nor so hideously short as
they now wear them. No trimming on the sleeve but a ribbon knot
tied to hang on the ruffles."
Artificial flowers were worn in full dress. We learn from the
newspapers of the day that "the biziness of making flowers" was
a thriving one in Boston. Teachers in the art of flower making are
often advertised in the Boston papers. We read, too, that Benjamin
Franklin's sister and her daughter made a practical use of this ac-
complishment in the following extract from a letter from Mrs. Mecom,
dated Boston, 1766:
"And I have a small request to ask. It is to procure me some
fine old linen or cambric dyed into bright colours, such as red and
green, a little blue but chiefly red, for with all my art and good old
Benjamin's memorandums, I cannot make them good colours. My
daughter Jenny, with a little of my assistance, has taken to making
flowers for ladies' heads and bosoms with pretty good acceptance,
and if I can procure these colours, I am in hope we shall get some-
thing by it worth our pains. It is no matter how old the linen is.
I am afraid you never had any bad enough."
From a letter of Mrs. Mecom to Mrs. Franklin dated February
27th, 1766, we take the following: "We are now supplied not only
with necessary but creditable clothing, for brother has sent each of
us a printed cotton gown, a quilted coat, a bonnet, each of the girls
a cap and some ribbons. Mine is very suitable for me to wear now,
being black and purple cotton, but the girls' are light coloured."*
* Letters to Benjamin Franklin from his Family and Friends, 1751-1790.
214 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
The name bonnet, from the French bonnet, was often used through-
out the eighteenth century in speaking of caps and hoods, but the
first actual bonnet was the successor of the Gipsy hat in the latter
part of the century, and in 1798 we read that "straw bonnets were
in full fashion."
A New England authority tells us that "cushions stuffed with
wool and covered with silk, used in dressing the hair, made a calash
(Figures 222, 226, 227) necessary instead of a bonnet. This was
large and wide, and an awkward article of attire, but often shrouding
a health-beaming face in its depths, needing no other ornament than
its own good humored smile."*
A gentleman of the courteous old school remarked of this fashion
of the calash, "It was like looking down a green lane to see a rose
blooming at the end."
From the "History of Norwich" quoted above we give the fol-
lowing description: "Women of mature age wore close linen caps
(Figure 253). Parasols and umbrellas were unknown or of rare
occurrence, but a fan nearly a foot and a half in length, and spread-
ing like the train of a peacock, was often carried to keep off the
sun as well as to catch the air. At one period feathers were much
worn upon the head, surmounting a high turban of gauze or muslin
raised on wire and adorned also with ribbon.
"A lady in full dress for great occasions displayed a rich brocade
with open skirt and trained petticoat trimmed with lace; an em-
broidered stomacher and full ruffles at the elbows. Hood and scarf
were of silk. No sumptuary laws restrained the feminine taste for
rich attire at this period. When the ladies walked out, they threw
the end of the train over the right arm. The foot was dressed in a
silk stocking, a sharp-toed slipper, often made of embroidered satin,
and with a high heel " (Figure 240). In winter beaver hats were worn
over a lace cap, as in Figure 216, or with the brim curved downwards
* History of Norwich, by F. M. Caulkins.
215
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 217
by broad ribbon strings tied under the chin (Figure 195). Loose
cloaks trimmed with fur were the fashion in the middle of the
eighteenth century, also long Roquelaures with short capes or a
hood on the shoulders, like those worn by the men.
In Massachusetts, we are told, "ladies wore caps, long stiff stays,
and high-heeled shoesV Their bonnets (hoods) were of silk or satin,
and usually black. Gowns were extremely long-waisted with tight
sleeves. Another fashion was a very short sleeve with an immense
frill at the elbow. A large flexible hoop, three or four feet in diameter,
was for some time quilted into the hem of the gown, making an im-
mense display of the lower person. A large round cushion, stuffed
with cotton or hair and covered with black crape, was laid across
the head, over which the hair
was combed back and fastened. '
It was almost the universal cus-
tom, also, for women to wear gold
beads, thirty-nine little hollow
globes, about the size of a pea, """""Figure 208.
strung on a thread and tied round ^ Lady's shoe, of a Comflower-blue Serge
Silk, Bound with White Ribbon.
the neck.
"Working women wore petticoats and half gowns, drawn with
a cord round the waist, and coarse leather shoes; though they generally
had a pair of 'Lynn shoes' for Sunday."*
In Watson's famous "Annals" we read: "The women in Phila-
delphia wore caps (a bare head was never seen), stiff stays, hoops
from six inches to two feet (Figure 184) on each side, so that a full-
dressed lady entered a door like a crab. High-heeled shoes of black
stuff with white silk or thread stockings, and in the miry times of /
winter they wore clogs, galoshes, or pattens (Figures 189 and 190). -
"Ladies often had their hair tortured for four hours at a sitting,
in getting the proper crisped curls of a hair curler. Some who
* History of Lynn, Mass., by Lewis and Newhall.
2l8
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
designed to be inimitably captivating, not knowing they could be sure
of professional services, where so many hours were occupied upon
one gay head, have actually had the operation performed the day
before it was required, then have slept all night in a sitting posture to
prevent the derangement of their frizzles and curls. This is a real
fact, and we could, if questioned, name cases. They were of course
FiGTTRE 211. Figure 210.
Plan of White Satin Dress shown in Figures 218 and 230. Reign of George III.
rare occurrences, proceeding from some extra occasions, when there
were several to serve, and but few such refined hair dressers in the
place.
"This formidable head work was succeeded by rollers over which
the hair was combed from the forehead. These again were super-
seded by cushions and artificial curled work, which could be sent out
219
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
221
to the barber's block like a wig to be dressed, leaving the lady at
home to pursue other objects, thus producing a grand reformation
Figure 216.
Beaver Hat and Short Cloak, Middle of Eighteenth Century. Reigns of George II and III.
in the economy of time and an exemption from former durance
vile.
222 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"When the ladies first began to lay off their cumbrous hoops,
they supplied their place with successive succedaneums, such as these,
to wit: First came bishops — a thing stuffed or padded with horse
hair; then succeeded a smaller affair under the name of Cue de Paris,
also padded with horse hair. How it abates our admiration to con-
template the lovely sex as bearing a roll of horse hair or a cut of cork
under their garments! Next they supplied their place with silk or
calimanco, or russell thickly quilted and inlaid with wool, made into
petticoats; then these were supplanted by a substitute of half a dozen
petticoats. No wonder such ladies needed fans in a sultry summer,
and at a time when parasols were unknown, to keep off the solar
rays!"
Other articles of female wear are mentioned: "Once they wore
a 'skimmer hat' made of a fabric which shone like silver tinsel; it
was of a very small flat crown and big brim, not unlike the late Leg-
horn flats. Another hat, not unlike it in shape, was made of woven
horse hair woven in flowers, and called 'horse hair bonnets,' an article
which might again be usefully introduced for children's wear as an
enduring hat for long service." Watson had himself seen what was
called a "bath bonnet," date unknown, "made of black satin, and
so constructed to lie in folds that it could be sat upon like a chapeau
bras,^^ and observes that "it would be a good article for travelling
ladies!" This and the "musk melon bonnet," evidently a modifica-
tion of the calash, used before the Revolution, had numerous whale-
bone stiffeners in the crown, set an inch apart in parallel lines and
presenting ridges to the eye, between the bones. The "pumpkin hood "
was made in the same manner with wadding between the ridges for
cold weather.
"A 'calash bonnet,'" according to Watson, "was usually formed
of green silk; it was worn abroad covering the head, but when in
rooms it could fall back in folds like the springs of a calash or gigtop ;
to keep it over the head it was drawn up by a cord always held in the
223
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 225
hand of the wearer." When the calash was at the height of popularity,
however, it appeared in many varieties of material and colour. I
have seen mention of a pink dimity calash and of a flowered Persian
worn over high heads, without disturbing the erection, and blue
and brown calashes may be seen in the Museums in Philadelphia.
"The wagon bonnet, always of black silk, was an article exclusively
in use among the Friends. When on the head it was thought to look
not unlike the top of the Jersey wagons, having a pendent piece of
the silk hanging from the bonnet and covering the shoulders. The
only straw worn was that called the 'straw bee-hive bonnet,' worn
generally by old people." Interesting specimens of bonnets may
be seen in the Museum of Memorial Hall, Philadelphia, ranging from
the calash and the pumpkin hood to the wagon bonnet mentioned
by Mr. Watson, but the exact date of the latter is hard to determine.
Mrs. Gummere, in a very brilliant book on a very sombre sub-
ject, published recently,* says: "It has been with the Quaker bonnet
as with every other garment the Quaker has ever worn — the cut
originated in that centre of all ideas of fashion, and the abode of
taste, Paris, while the expression of Quakerism lay simply in the
absence of any superfluous adornments. In this one idea lies the
secret of Quaker dress." Doubtless the author is right, but who
can look upon even a picture of a Quaker bonnet without sighing
for the superfluous adornments?
Although no rigid laws had been passed by the Quakers forbid-
ding the use of gay colours, members of the sect were recommended
to abstain from them, and soft grays, dull drabs, sage greens, and
sombre browns were so generally worn by Friends that they were
thenceforth associated with them. We read in many instances of
the careful pains even the strictest of Friends took to match these
solemn colours. Figure 250 is the portrait of a beautiful Quaker
lady in a gown of sage silk.
* The Quaker, a Study in Costume.
226 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"The Quaker simplicity of garb was but another name for the
finest and costhest raiment that could be produced, the richest sombre
coloured silks, the most delicate lawn, the finest broadcloth. A modest
splendour which cost more thought and care than the ordinary habili-
ments which were denounced by the sect as pomps and vanities of
the world," says that gentle historian, Mrs. Oliphant. But the use
of sheer cambric in caps, handkerchiefs, and aprons gave to the dress
of the Quaker maids and matrons a dainty air of unpretentious re-
finement for which they have ever been distinguished.
The cape in Figure 232 is of pale gray silk lined with white cam-
bric. It is taken from an original garment of about 1775. The cap
is of finest linen cambric sewed with the invisible stitches of early
days and worn by that distinguished colonial dame of Pennsylvania,
Deborah Norris Logan, at the close of the eighteenth century. The
combination may at first seem an anachronism, but in point of fact
the Society of Friends followed with reluctant footsteps the changes
of fashion, and while caps of the style of Figure 232 were probably
worn at the close of the century and even later, the cape is of a
shape worn by Quaker dames as early as 1775 and as late as 1800.
A delightful instance of departure from Quaker costume on an
especial occasion is thus told by Mrs. Gummere:*
"A Quaker Wedding.
"In the month of May, 1771, Isaac Collins of Burlington, New
Jersey, married Rachel Budd, of Philadelphia, at the 'Bank Meeting'
in that city. His wedding dress was a coat of peach blossom cloth,
the great skirts of which had outside pockets. It was lined through-
out with quilted white silk. The large waistcoat was of the same
material. He wore small clothes, knee buckles, silk stockings, and
pumps. A cocked hat surmounted the whole.
"The bride, who is described as 'lovely in mind and person,'
* The Quaker, a Study in Costume.
227
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
229
wore a light blue brocade, shoes of the same material, with very-
high heels, not larger
than a gold dollar, and
sharply pointed at the
toes." In Figure 263 a
photograph of the orig-
inal shoes worn on that
occasion is given. "Her
dress was in the fashion
of the day, consisting of
a robe, long in the back,
with a large hoop. A
short blue bodice, with
a white satin stomacher
embroidered in colours,
had a blue cord laced
from side to side. On
her head she wore a
black mode hood lined
with white silk, the large
cape extending over the
shoulders. Upon her re-
turn from meeting after
the ceremony, she put on
a thin white apron of
ample dimensions, tied in
front with a large blue
bow."
Cloaks for outdoor
wear were used with
some changes of form, under the successive names of "pompadours,"
"Roquelaures," "cardinals," and "capuchins," throughout the eight-
FlGURE 223.
Lady in Capuchin with Fur Trimmings and MuflF,
1780. Reign of George III.
230 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
eenth century. "Umbrellas to keep off the rain were not known
at this time, but a few people used quitasols, which were about
the size of the present parasols. They were of oiled muslin,
and were of various colours. They must, however, have been but
rare, as they never appear in any advertisements," according to Mr.
Watson, who is also responsible for the following statement:
"In those days dress was discriminative and appropriate, both
as regards the season and the character of the wearer. Ladies
never wore the same dress at work as on visits; they sat at home or
went out in the morning in chintz, and brocades, satins and mantuas
were reserved for evening wear or for dinner parties. Robes or
negligees, as they were called (Figures 192, 204, and 207), were
often worn in full dress. Muslin gowns were not worn at all."
During the reign of George III, women of fashion began to wear
their hair high again. In 1775, it was worn absurdly high, rolled
over a framework of wire and surmounted by a large cap, turban,
or hat with tall feathers; this fashion was never quite as exaggerated
in the Colonies as in England, but many ancestral portraits testify
to its popularity. For instance, the portraits of Mrs. Duer and Mrs.
Izard in "The Republican Court" show this extreme of fashion.
Virginia was always one of the gayest of the Colonies. In the
Diary of Philip Fithian, this description of festivities in 1774 is given:
"A Virginia Ball and Virginia Belles (1774).
"Tuesday, January 18. Mrs. Carter and the young ladies came
home last night from the ball, and brought with them Mrs. Lane.
They tell us there were upward of seventy at the ball; forty-one
ladies; that the company was genteel; and that Colonel Harry Lee,
from Dumfries, and his son Harry, who was with me at college, were
also there. Mrs. Carter made this an argument, and it was a strong
one indeed, that to-day I must dress and go with her to the ball.
She added also that she desired my company in the evening when
Figure 224.
^^^B^ms^^'
1
1
-»^
^^^Tl-^ . ^^*>U i-i^B*^
w ^^m
i
^P'
if"
'^^H
1
J
jg
&
I
Figure 225.
231
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
233
she should come home, as it would be late. After considering a while,
I consented to go, and was dressed.
"We set away from Mr. Carter's at two. Mrs. Carter and the
young ladies went in the chariot, Mrs. Lane in a chair, and myself
on horseback. ,
"As soon as I had handed the ladies out I was saluted by Parson
Smith. I was introduced into a small room where a number of gentle-
men were playing cards (the first game I have seen since I left home)
Figure 226.
y
Calashes, 1765.
Figure 227.
to lay off my boots, riding-coat, &c. Next I was directed into the
dining-room to see young Mr. Lee. He introduced me to his father.
"With them I conversed till dinner, which came in at half after
four. The ladies dined first, when some good order was preserved.
When they rose, each nimblest fellow dined first. The dinner was
as elegant as could be well expected when so great an assembly were
to be kept for so long a time. For drink, there were several sorts
of wine, good lemon punch, toddy, cider, porter, &c.
"About seven, the ladies and gentlemen began to dance in the
234 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
ball-room,— first, minuets, one round; second, jigs; trl4|i rll!s;
and last of all, country-dances. They struck up marches occasionally.
The music was a French-horn and two violins.
"The ladies were dressed gay and splendid, and when dancing,
their silks and brocades rustled and trailed behind them."
The minuet, from the French menuet, — so called from the small
steps taken in it,— was invented in France about the middle of the
seventeenth century, and throughout the eighteenth century was the
favourite dance of all ceremonious occasions in the Colonies as well
as in Europe.
The same diary also contains valuable items of contemporary
costume and allusions to the fashionable deportment taught to the
young ladies of the Colonies and absolutely essential to the proper
setting off of the costumes then in vogue.
"Friday, June 24. — To-day Mr. Christian's* dance takes place
here. He came before breakfast. Miss Jenny Washington came
also, and Miss Priscilla Hale while we were at breakfast. Miss
Washington is about seventeen. She has not a handsome face, but
is neat in her dress, of an agreeable size, well proportioned, and has
an easy winning manner. She is not forward to begin a conversa-
tion, yet when spoken to she is extremely affable, without assum-
ing any girlish affectation, or pretending to be overcharged with wit.
She has but lately had an opportunity for instruction in dancing
yet she moves with propriety when she dances a minuet, and without
any flirts or capers when she dances a reel or country-dance. Her
dress is rich and well-chosen, but not tawdry, nor yet too plain. She
appears to-day in a chintz cotton gown with an elegant blue stamp,
a sky-blue silk quilt (Figure 213), and spotted apron. Her hair
is a light brown, it was craped up, with two rolls at each side, and
on the top was a small cap of beautiful gauze and rich lace, with an
artificial flower interwoven. Her person and carriage at a small
* Mr. Christian was evidently a dancing master.
2.35
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
237
distance resemble not a little my much respected Laura. But on
close examination her features are something masculine, while those
of Laura are mild and delicate, Mr. Christian very politely requested
me to open the dance by stepping a minuet with this amiable girl.
I excused myself by assuring him that I never was taught to dance.
Miss Hale is about fourteen, and is a slim and silent girl. She has
black eyes and black hair and a good
set of eyebrows, which are esteemed in
Virginia essential to beauty. She looks
innocent of every human failing, does
not speak five words in a week, and I
dare say from her carriage that her
modesty is perfect. She is dressed in
a white Holland gown, cotton, quilted
very fine, a lawn apron, has her hair
craped up, and on it a small tuft of
ribbon for a cap. She is but just
initiated into the school, and only hob-
bles yet. Once I saw her standing. I
rose immediately and begged her to
accept my chair. She answered most
kindly, 'Sir, I thank you.' That was
all I could extract from this wonder of
the sex for the two days she staid, and
I seemed to have an equal share in the
favours of her conversation. So that in
describing the mental faculties of Miss
Hale, it is sufficient to say that I think she is far removed from most
of the foibles of women. Some time after these, came Colonel Lee's
chariot with five young misses."
In England, in the first half of the eighteenth century, it was the
custom of the noble patrons of the different theatrical companies
Figure 232.
Quaker Cape and Cap, 1780.
238 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
to bestow their cast-off suits upon their favourite actors. As national
distinction was utterly disregarded in dramatic productions of the
day, and histories of costume were unknown, the heroes and heroines
of classic lore, as well as of Shakespeare, were dressed in the fashion-
able garb of the passing hour. We hear of even Garrick appearing
as OtheUo in a regimental suit of George II's body-guard, with a
flowering Ramilie wig; and of Barry in the same role (in 1765)
dressed in a fuU suit of gold-laced scarlet, a small cocked hat, and
silk stockings.
More striking still must have been the Othello of James Quin
in a large powdered major wig and a blackened face. Fancy Lady
Macbeth in a hoop eight yards in circumference, which, as we read,
was the costume Mrs. Yates assumed in the part.
Barton Booth, an actor of note in the early part of the century,
took pains to encase the soles of his shoes in felt when acting the
ghost in Hamlet, but Pope records of his impersonation of Addison's
Cato in 1712:
" Booth enters, hark the universal peal!
But has he spoken? not a syllable.
What shook the stage and made the people stare?
Cato's long wig, flowr'd gown and lacquer'd chair."
Mrs. Cibber as Juliet, in a white satin gown with an enormous
hoop, does not seem to have been thought unseemly attired.
Even John Kemble, the author of many reformations in stage
effects, appeared as Hamlet in a modern court dress of rich black
velvet with deep ruffles, with the pendent riband of an order on his
breast, and mourning sword and buckles; his hair was powdered
and, in the scenes of feigned distraction, flowed dishevelled in front
over his shoulders.*
The first theatre in America was at WiUiamsburg, Virginia, which
was inaugurated by the London Company of Comedians under the
management of Mr. Lewis Hallam in 1752. The play was "The
* Annals of the English Stage, by Dr. Doran.
Figure 233.
Figure 234.
Figure 236,
,J1
Figure 235.
Figure 237.
Figure 240.
Figure 239.
Figure 241.
239
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 241
Merchant of Venice." The unfortunate Signor Antonio probably
dressed in a ruffled shirt, knee buckles, long coat, and buttoned waist-
coat, with a powdered wig, after the manner of Mr. Clarke at the
Haymarket Theatre in London; while Shylock stood whetting his
wicked knife in a very long-tailed coat and a falling band of linen,
in imitation of Macklin, w^ho was delighting English audiences
with his representation of the part about that time. Opera glasses
came into use early in this century (eighteenth).
Miss Sarah Eves, of Philadelphia, remarks in her journal (January
5, 1773) : "The poor Doctor thought his clothes were not good enough
to wait upon us in, therefore he delays his visit until he gets fitted
up in the Macaronia taste I suppose." This was the popular name
for a dandy at the time Miss Eves wrote, the Macaronis being a class
of fops in London who introduced a particular style of dress in 1772.
The name originated in the following manner. A number of young
men of fashion who had visited Italy formed an association called
"The Macaroni Club," in contradistinction to the "Beefsteak Club"
of London. As the fashion of this time was to wear long waistcoats
and coats with wide and heavy skirts, they wore theirs exceedingly
short, and the whole dress of very close cut. Their wigs were
remarkable for an enormous club, or turned-up bunch of hair be-
hind. They had little cocked hats, swords dangling about their
heels at the end of long straps, and sticks with large tassels. Their
stockings were covered with coloured spots and their dress generally
piebald in the same manner.
In 1773 an alteration took place in their dress, consisting chiefly
in elevating the hair to an enormous height, with large curls ranging
on each side of it, and in wearing immense bunches of flowers at the
breast. They attracted much attention during the few years of their
existence.*
* Fairholt's English Dress.
242 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"Ye belles and beaus of London town,
Come listen to my ditty;
The muse, in prancing up and down,
Has found out something pretty.
With little hat, and hair dress'd high,
And whip to ride a pony.
If you but take a right survey,
Denotes a Macaroni.
" Five pounds of hair they wear behind
The ladies to dehght, O!
Their senses give unto the wind.
To make themselves a fright, O!
Thus fashion who does e'er pursue
I think a simple tony,
For he's a fool, say what you will,
Who is a Macaroni."
This ballad was popular in the streets of London at this time,
and was probably sung by the English soldiers in the Colonies. It
suggests a close connection with the national air, "Yankee Doodle,"
which so many writers have attempted to explain without, however,
settling the vexed question.
"Yankee Doodle came to town
Riding on a pony
With a feather in his hat.
Upon- a Macaroni"
can be traced to the time of Charles I, and has been ascribed to the
pen of a cavalier poet in derision of Cromwell. But this version
does not seem any more palpable than other explanations, and "a
feather in his hat" is not suggestive of Cromwell.
According to the Century Dictionary, it is said to have been first
applied in the Colonies to a Maryland company of militia distin-
guished for its showy uniform.
The Lydia Fisher jig, sung to the same tune, runs:
" Lucy Locket lost her pocket
Lydia Fisher found it,
Not a bit of money in it
Only broidery round it."
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 243
We give a picture of a beautifully embroidered linen pocket,
made by a colonial lady, which would be well worth finding even as
empty as that of Lucy Locket (Figure 238). This pocket was intended
to be worn outside the dress, as the careful needlework proclaims.
The original is in the Essex Institute at Salem, Massachusetts. It
was worked and worn by Mrs. Samuel Wodkind about 1750. A
similar pocket made of printed cotton is in the Museum of Mem-
orial Hall, Philadelphia.
According to Fairholt, the Macaroni style of costume was quite
the rage with the town (London). Everything that was fashionable
was a la Macaroni. Even the clergy had their wigs combed, their
clothes cut, "their delivery refined," a la Macaroni. The shop
windows were filled with caricatures and other prints of this tribe;
there were portraits of "Turf Macaronis," "Parade Macaronis,"
"Macaroni Parsons," "Macaroni Scholars," and a variety of other
species of this extended genus. Ladies set up for female Macaronis.
Their costume was scarcely so distinctive as that of the men ; it was
chiefly known by the high head-dress, large bunch of flowers, and
an exceedingly wide and spreading sleeve hanging with deep ruf-
fles from the elbow.
"No ringlets now adorn the face,
Dear Nature yields to art,
A lofty head-dress must take place,
Abroad in ev'ry part.
*^ Patch, paint, perfume, immodest stare,
You find is all the fashion.
Alas, I'm sorry for the fair,
Who thus disgrace the nation."*
I have not met with a single notice of a female Macaroni in the
Colonies.
The English country people of the eighteenth century were rather
picturesque in costume. When dressed for church or a country fair,
* Fairholt's Satirical Poems on Costume.
J
244 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
the young women wore flowered chintzes with muslin kerchiefs and
aprons. The short skirts showed clocked stockings, usually of a
bright colour. Their shoes were strong but not clumsy in pattern,
and the little muslin caps they wore under their hats were extremely
pretty and becoming.
On these occasions the men wore breeches to the knees, coats
of homespun, waistcoats usually of some contrasting colour, buckled
shoes, and cocked hats.
When at work, the damsels generally wore short skirts of a coarse
woolen, material tied round the waist over short sacques of calico,
with kerchiefs about the neck. (Figures 247 and 259.)
The men wore knit jerkins or blouses of coarse linen, such as
oznaburg or dowlas, leather boots pulled up over coarse woolen
breeches, and Monmouth caps. Homespun linsey-woolsey was
much in use for both sexes.
The domestics of a household were always clothed by their mas-
ters. A letter of Mistress Hannah Penn, written in 1700, requests
that "ten yards of frieze for servants and some four or six skirts"
be sent by barge from Philadelphia to Pennsbury, where she was
preparing for her husband's return. The following items tell us
what Washington ordered from England for the servants at Mt.
Vernon in 1759:
8 doz. pairs of plaid hose sorted,
4 " Monmouth caps,
25 yds. broadcloth to cost about 7s. 6d.
15 " coarse double thick broadcloth,
6 " scarlet broadcloth,
30 " red shalloon,
12 doz. white washed waistcoat buttons,
20 " " " coat
40 yds. coarse jean or fustian for summer frocks for negro servants,
li doz. pairs strong coarse thread hose fit for negro servants,
I " pairs coarse shoes and knee buckles,
I postillion cap,
6 castor beavers.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA . 245
The livery worn by his servants was of scarlet faced with
white, the colours of the Washington coat-of-arms.
The following notices from newspapers of 1740 to 1772, show
the usual dress of servants and slaves in the Colonies:
"Now in the custody of Thomas Smith, Sheriff of Cape County,
a run-away negro man, who goes by the name Jupiter Hazard, is
about twenty-seven years of age, but very black, of a middle size
and well built. Had on when taken up, a flannel shirt, leather breeches
with a fob in the waistband, shoes and stockings, both very good,
the stockings of a blue colour, bathmetal buckles, a good felt hat
and worsted cap. He speaks English like a country born negro
who has lived some time among the Dutch.
"He had a bundle with him which contained two white shirts,
a dimity jacket and breeches, a white handkerchief, a linen cap, a
pocket-book with four dollars in it, and a pair of silver knee buckles
marked N. S."
"Ran away on the 20th from Nathan Watson, of Mount Holly,
an Irish servant man, named Christopher Cooney, a short well-set
fellow, about twenty-six years of age, of a pale complexion, short
brown curled hair, had lost one of his under fore teeth, and has had
his right leg broke, and walks with his toe turned outward. Had
on when he went away, a new castor hat, a red great coat, a light-
coloured fustian coat and jacket, new copper coloured broadcloth
breeches, lined with leather, new black and white yarn stockings,
old shoes, newly soled. He was some time past a hostler at Jonathan
Thomas's, in Burlington. Whoever takes up and secures said ser-
vant, so that his master may have him again, shall have forty shil-
lings reward, and reasonable charges, paid by
Nathan Watson."
From the "Pennsylvania Gazette," 1773:
"Ran away from the subscriber, an English servant girl named
Christina Ball, but calls herself Caty for shortness, about twenty
years of age, brown skinned, black eyes, and hair lately cut short,
a little stoop-shouldered. Her cloathes are very ordinary, a brown
246
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
cloth petticoat, other coarse shifts and a striped caHco short gown;
any other cloathes uncertain. Whosoever takes her up, and con-
fines her in any gaol
within twenty miles of
this city shall have twenty
shillings reward, and
three pounds if taken up
at any distance further,
paid by
Henry Neill."
The advertisements
in the early newspapers
in America are a valua-
ble contribution to the
history of costume. I
will give a few from the
leading papers of differ-
ent parts of the Colonies
early in the eighteenth
century.
Among quaint and
curious advertisements,
we find this one of
Thomas Peck's, advertis-
ing goods sold by him at
the Hatt & Beaver, Mer-
chant's Row, in Boston.
"A fresh assortment
of Linen Linings, suita-
ble for Beaver, Bea-
verett. Castor, and Felt
Hatts, Tabby ditto. Mohair Lupings, Silk Braid ditto, flatt and
round silk lace and Frogs for Button Lupes, plain and sash Bands,
Figure 242.
Typical Dress of English Country Girl, 1780. (End
of the Eighteenth Century.)
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 247
workt and plain Buttons, black Thread, Gold and Silver Chain,
yellow and white Buttons, hard and light Brushes, Velures, Cards,
large and small bowstrings, Looping Needles, Verdigrees and
Coperas, a good assortment of mens and boys felt Hatts, Castor
ditto.— He likewise sells logwood."
From the "New York Gazette" of May 9, 1737, we learn of a
thief's stealing "one gray Hair wig, one Horse Hair Wig, not worn
five times, marked V. S. E., one brown Natural Wig, one old wig
of Goats Hair put in buckle." "Buckle" meant "to curl," and a
wig was "in buckle" when it was rolled on papers for curling. Other
advertisements tell of the dress-stuffs of the time with the weird names
chilloes, betelles, deribands, tapsiels, that were familiar enough
over the shop counters in colonial New York.
Here is another curious old advertisement:
"May II, 1 761. Imported by John and Thomas Stevenson
and to be sold at their shop at the Sign of the Stays, opposite the
South Side of the Town-House, Boston, at the very lowest prices. Viz.
"Lawns of all sorts, Strip'd and Flowr'd kenting Handkerchiefs,
cotton and linen ditto; silk and gauze ditto; Cambricks, Calicoes
and printed Linens — white and coloured Threads; silk, worsted, cot-
ton and thread stockings, Women's silk and worsted Mitts — Broad-
Cloths; German Serge — Thicksets; Fustians, Jeans, Pillows and
Dimities— Broglios, Dorsateens, Venetian Poplins, flowr'd and plain
Damasks, Prussianets, Serpentines, Tammies, strip'd stuff, Camblets,
Callimancoes, Shalloons and Buckrams, — Worsted Caps, Garters,
Needles and Pins — white brown and strip'd Hollands — white and
checked Linnen Diaper, Bed-Ticks, Tartans, Plaids Breeches and
Jackets Stocking Patterns, Cotton and ^silk gowns. Stock Tapes,
Leather Breeches, Mens' and Women's Leather Shoes, &c., &c."
The following is also of interest:
"Just imported from London, and to be sold by
"Daniel Boyer, Jeweller,
"At his Shop opposite the Governor's in Boston.
Best Brilliant and Cypher Earing and Button Stones, Binding
248 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Wire, Brass and Iron ditto, Brilliant and cypher ring stones. Brass
stamps. Garnets, Amethysts, and topaz. Buckle and ring brushes,
Ring and buckle sparks. Money scales and weights. Locket stones
& Cyphers, Small sheers & Flyers, Ruby and white foyle. Screw
dividers. Coral beads, Blow pipes. Coral for Whistles, Shoe and
knee Chapes, Draw plates. Moulding sand, Rough and smooth
files. Crucibles and plack pots. Borax and Salt-Petre, Pommice
and Rotten-stone, &c.
Where also may be had, some sorts of Jewellers and Goldsmith work,
cheap for cash."
That Paul Revere was at one time a dentist, we learn from the
following startling advertisement in the "Boston Gazette," December
19, 1768:
"Whereas many Persons are so unfortunate as to lose their Fore-
Teeth by Accident, and otherways, to their great Detriment, not
only in looks, but speaking both in Public and Private : — This is to
inform all such that they may have them replaced with artificial
ones, that looks as well as the Natural, and answers the end of speak-
ing to all Intents, by Paul Revere, Goldsmith, near the head of Dr.
Clarke's Wharf, Boston.
"All Persons who have had false teeth fixt by Mr. John Baker,
Surgeon-Dentist, and they have got loose (as they will in time) may
have them fastened by the above who learnt the Method of fixing
them from Mr. Baker."
Here is an invoice of goods imported in 177 1:
"Imported in the Neptune (Capt. Binney) and to be sold by
Daniel Parker, Goldsmith, At his Shop near the Golden-Ball, Boston,
"An Assortment of Articles in the Goldsmith's and Jewellers
Way, viz. brilliant and cypher'd Button and Earing Stones of all
Sorts, Locket Stones, cypher'd Ring Stones, Brilliant Ring Sparks,
Buckle Stones, Garnetts, Amethysts, Topaz, and Sapphire Ring
Stones, neat Stone Rings sett in Gold, some with Diamond Sparks,
Stone Buttons in Silver, by the Card, black ditto in Silver, best Sword
Blades, Shoe and Knee Chapes of all sizes."
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 249
Another invoice by the same ship contains the following list:
"Broad Cloths, German Serges, Bearskins, Beaver Coating,
Half Thick, red Shagg, 8 qr. Blankets, Shalloons, Tammies, Dur-
ants, Calimancoes, worsted Damasks, strip'd and plain Camblets,
strip'd Swanskins, Flannell, Manchester Velvet, Women's ditto, Bom-
bazeen, AUopeen, colour'd Duffels, Hungarians, Dimothy, Crim-
son and green China, Cotton Check, worsted and Hair Plush, Men's
and Women's Hose, worsted caps, mill'd ditto, black Tiffany,
Women's and Children's Stays, cotton Romalls, printed Linnen
Handkerchiefs, black Gauze ditto, Bandanoes, Silk Lungee Rom-
alls, Cambricks, Lawns, Muslins, Callicoes, Chintz, Buckrams, Gu-
lick Irish and Tandem Holland, Men's and Women's Kid and Lamb
Gloves, black and white Bone Lace, Capuchin Silk and Fringe, Gar-
tering, Silk and Cotton Laces, strip' t Ginghams, Yellow Canvas,
Diaper, Damask Table Cloths and Napkins, Bedtick, Garlix, Sole-
tare necklaces and Earings, Tapes, Women's Russel Shoes, sew-
ing Silk, Looking Glasses, Ticklenburg, English and Russia Duck,
English and India Taffety, Grograms, English and India Damask,
Padusoys, Lutestrings, black and white Satin, Rich Brocade, Gauze
Caps and Ruffles, Shades and handsome Silk Cloakes, &c., &c., &c."
Of interest, too, is this advertisement from the "Pennsylvania
Gazette," 1773:
"John Marie
"Taylor from Paris.
Humbly acquaints the Gentry and Public that he has taken a house
in Gray's Alley, between Walnut and Chestnut Streets, the fourth
door from Second Street, and has provided good workmen. He
has had the pleasure of pleasing some of the most respectable gentle-
men in London, and hopes by the strictest attention and most par-
ticular punctuality to give general satisfaction.
"N. B. At said Maries', gentlemen's cloaths of all colours cleaned,
all spots taken out, and made equal to new, without the tedious and
disadvantageous method of ripping or washing them."
The following notice is rather amusing:
250 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"William Lang,
"Wig-Maker and Hair Dresser,
Hereby informs the Public, that he has hired a Person from Europe,
by whose assistance he is now enabled, in the several Branches of
his Business, to serve his good customers, and all others, in the most
genteel and polite Tastes that are at present in Fashion in England
and America. In particular, Wigs made in any Mode whatever,
such as may grace and become the most important Heads, whether
those of Judges, Divines, Lawyers, or Physicians, together with
all those of an inferior Kind, so as exactly to suit their Respective
Occupations and Inclinations. Hair-dressing, for Ladies and Gen-
tlemen, performed in the most elegant and newest Taste — Ladies
in a particular Manner, shall be attended to, in the nice, easy, gen-
teel and polite Construction of Rolls, such as may tend to raise
their Heads to any Pitch they may desire, also French Curls, made
in the neatest Manner. He gives Cash for Hair."
In the Museum at Memorial Hall, Philadelphia, are some jute
braids once worn under nets by women of the Colonies.
The following notices from various newspapers in different parts
of the Colonies, appearing at the dawn of the Revolution, prove
that the people of that day were not wholly given up to the vanities
of the world.
This, from a New England paper about 1768, is a proof of
the patriotic spirit of the dames of colonial days:
"In a large circle of very agreeable ladies in this Town, it was
unanimously agreed to lay aside the Use of Ribbons, &c., &c.,
&c. for which there has been so great a Resort to Milliners in times
past. It is hoped that this resolution will be followed by others
of the Sex throughout the Province — How agreeable they will ap-
pear in their native Beauty, stript of these Ornaments from the pre-
vailing Motive of Love to their Country."
Another notice reads:
"We must after all our Efforts, depend greatly upon the Female
Sex for the introduction of Economy among us; and those who
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 251
have the Pleasure of an Acquaintance with them assure us that their
utmost Aid will not be wanting.
''So strong is the Disposition of the Inhabitants of this Town
to take of the Manufacturers that come from the Country Towns,
especially Womens and Childrens Winter Apparel, that nothing
is wanting but an Advertisement where they may be had in Town,
which will be taken in, and published by the printers of this Paper
gratis." *
Mrs. Caulkins tells us that "with the prospect of war with
the Mother Country before them, many of the inhabitants of Boston
decided upon a non-importation system, and a non-consumption
of articles on which heavy duties were laid. It was the practice
then, as it is at this day, in the Colonies as well as in England, to
dress in black clothes on mourning occasions. It was decided to dis-
continue such dresses, and the custom of wearing black on these
occasions was generally laid aside; the only sign made use of was
a piece of black crape about the hat, which was in use before, and
a piece of the same stuff around the arm.
"An agreement to this effect was drawn up and very generally
signed by the inhabitants of the town, also by some members of
the Council and Representatives. This would affect the sale of
English goods, and none were to be purchased except at fixed prices.
At the same time another agreement was very extensively signed
to eat no lamb flesh during the year. This was to increase the sheep
in the country, and consequently to encourage the manufacture of
woolen goods, which were imported from England in large quanti-
ties.
"The practice of wearing expensive mourning dresses was soon
very generally laid aside. It was further proposed 'to give no other
gloves than are of the manufacture of the country in lieu of white
ones, that are seldom drawn on a second time.' It was suggested
* The days of the Spinning Wheel in New England. Extracts from Colonial Papers.
252
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
to the glovers that, 'it might not be amiss if some peculiar mark
were put upon them, as a bow and arrow, or pine tree, instead of the
usual stitching on the back,' and a great number of the respectable
tradesmen of the Town came into a resolution to wear nothing but
leather for their working habits. Instead of the rich cloth Roque-
laures, even the magistrate and the colonel were satisfied with cloaks
of brown camlet lined with green baize, and the greatest lady in
the land had her riding hood also of camlet. As the great struggle
for liberty gradually overshadowed the
land, and the sacrifices necessary to con-
summate the Revolution began to be ap-
preciated, a decided change took place in
regard to dress, amusements, and dis-
play. Women discarded all imported
ornaments, and arrayed themselves wholly
in domestic goods. Fine wool and choice
flax were in higher estimation than silk
and laces, and the hearts of the patriots
as well as the laudations of the poet
were given to beauty in homespun gar-
ments. Gentlemen also that had been
accustomed to appear in society in the
daintiest costume, following the example
first set by the women, discarded their
shining stocks, their cambric ruffles, silk stockings, silver buckles,
and other articles of foreign production, and went back to leather
shoestrings, checked handkerchiefs, and brown homespun cloth.
"The encouragement of home manufactures and the rejection
of all imported luxuries were regarded as tests of patriotism. Com-
mon discourse grew eloquent in praise of plain apparel and Labrador
tea. The music of the spinning wheel was pronounced superior
to that of the guitar and harpsichord. Homespun parties were given
Figure 243.
Night-rail.
Figure 24
Figure 245.
A^^UMf
Figure 248,
253
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 255
where nothing of foreign importation appeared in the dresses or
upon the table. Even wedding festivities were conducted upon
patriotic principles." *
After the Battle of Bunker Hill, the colonists everywhere were
too seriously engaged to give much attention to the fashions, only
the Tories, who persisted in shutting their ears to the spirit of Rev-
olution now rife in the Colonies, and spreading in ever-widening
circles about them, continued to import the fashionable novelties
from England. On that July morning in 1776 when the Declara-
tion of Independence was read to an eager crowd in the State House
yard in Philadelphia, the colonial period of American history came
to an end.
AFTER THE REVOLUTION
Philadelphia in the winter of 1777 was the scene of much gaiety.
The Tories of the Colony, refusing even then to take a serious view
of the situation, amused themselves and the British officers stationed
there with Sir William Howe, by a series of dances and routs which
had "an appropriate closing" in the famous Mischianza given by
Major Andre and the other members of Howe's staff, probably with
the desire to return some of the hospitality received, although Major
Andre himself called it "the most splendid complimentary enter-
tainment ever given by an army to their Commander." The splen-
dour of this ball, preceded by a regatta on the Delaware and the
absurd mock tournament, has been so often described that it is not
necessary to dwell upon it here. The costumes of the knights and
ladies were designed by Andre as well as the tickets of admission.
The original drawing made for the ladies' costumes and one of the
tickets for the occasion are In the possession of the Philadelphia
Library Company.
During the Revolutionary period (i 776-1 783), and, in fact, for
* History of Norwich, Connecticut, by Frances Mainwaring Caulkins.
256 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
the remaining y^ars of the eighteenth century, patriotic Americans
who wished to be very fashionable imported their finery direct from
Paris, and French taste prevailed both in furniture and dress.
Depreciation of the currency was one of the many trials entailed
by the breach with England.
Speaking of the high prices during the Revolution, Mrs. Bache
(Sarah Franklin), in writing to her father, says: "I have been ob-
liged to pay fifteen pounds and fifteen shillings (£15 15s.) for a com-
mon calamanco petticoat without quilting, that I once could have
got for fifteen shillings. I buy nothing but what I really want, and
wore out my silk ones before I got this." (Philadelpl\ia, |5ia§ ">
A few months later she says: "A pair of gloves a
lars. One yard of common gauze twenty-four dollar
The hoop skirt, which had held its own for so mai
ouj; of fashion in 1778.
About this time hair in Paris was worn extravagantly high, but
as we do not notice the extreme of this or, in fact, of any of the
French styles in the portraits of the day in this country, it seems more
than likely that they did not. find favour in American eyes.
A letter from Miss Franks; one of the reigning belles in Ameri-
can society, describes a new thing in bonnets to her sister, Mrs. Hamil-
ton, living in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia: "I shall send you
a pattern of the newest bonnet ; there is no crown, but gauze is raised
on wire and punched to a sugar loaf at the top. The lighter the
trimming the more fashionable. (Figure 236.)
"Nancy Van Horn and myself employed yesterday morning
in trying to dress a rag baby in the fashion, but could not succeed;
it shall go, however, as it will in some degree give you an opinion
on the subject.
"As to the jacket and the pinning in of the handkerchief, yours
you say reaches to the arms. I know it, but it must be pinned up
* Letters to Benjamin Franklin from his Family and Friends.
• HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 257
to the top of the shoulders and quite under the arms as you would
a girl's Vandyke (Figure 259).
"The fuller, it sets, the handsomer it is thought. Nobody ever
sets a handkerchief out in the neck, 'and a gauze handkerchief is
always worn double and the longest that can be got; it is pinned
round the throat, as Mrs. Penn always did, and made to set out
before like a man's shirt. : The ladies here always wear either a pin
or a brooch as the men do."*
Chintz gowns were the usual wear for mornings at home, even
, when admiring British officers were about, for Sally Wister, writing
ir^l^j^ dt)untry home of her father in 1778, says to Deborah Norris:
^r near seven, dress'd in my light chintz which is made
i^enton handkerchief and linen apron." f Quilted
petticoats wSfe still very fashionable at this time.
Caps of a great variety of shapes were worn on all occasions by
the women of this period (Figures 200, 201, 202, and 219). A pic-
ture of one of a striking style is given (Figure 202) which was worn
by Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton in Massachusetts, in 1784.
Many of the English memoirs and letters mention the "great-
coat," which came into use in 1786, and so pleased Queen Char-
lotte that she commanded Miss Bumey to celebrate it in verse. The
result was not remarkable as a poem, but interesting as a note on
popular costume.
"The garb of state she inly scorn'd
Glad from its trappings to be free'd,
She saw thee humble, unadorn'd,
• Quick of attire, — a child of speed.
"Still, then, thrice honour'd Robe! retain
Thy modest guise, thy decent ease.
Nor let thy favour prove thy bane
By turning from its fostering breeze."
* Letter written from Long Island to Mrs. Hamilton of Woodlands near Philadelphia,
t Pennsylvania Magazine, vol. vii.
258 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
As Miss Burney speaks later of wearing a "white dimity great-
coat as usual in the morning," it was probably another form of the
negligee, the ancestress of our tea gown (Figure i6i). Of the same
nature, too, were the gowns which Maria Dickinson mentions; writ-
ing of an evening spent at Fairhill, the country-seat of Isaac Norris
near Philadelphia, she says:
"It was the custom to disrobe and put on one of the soft warm
gowns of green baize provided for each guest," then follows a charm-
ing description of innocent gossip over the fire. This letter is dated
January i, 1787.
Quaker dress was at this time noticeable for uniform simplicity
of cut and sober colouring, although, as we see by the followir^^x-
tract from a letter, lilac satin was allowed on occasions. ^BJD©-
"Phila. 23 Sept. 1783.
"We reached the antiquated building on Front street ere they
made their appearance, and being seated very advantageously, we
soon had the pleasure of seeing them enter. The bridegroom in a
full suit of lead coloured cloth, no powder in his hair, which made
him look tolerably plain. The bride was in lilac satin gown and
skirt with a white satin cloak and bonnet. It would be needless to
enumerate the variety of dresses which made their figures on this
occasion. Suffice it to say that all looked much in the smartness
especially neighbor G , who had procured an enormous large hat
which made him the most conspicuous person present" (Figure 220).
For this amusing letter I am indebted to Miss Anne H. Wharton,
the author of the delightful biography of Martha Washington, as
well as other well-known books on the colonial period.
There are very few portraits of Quakers of this period ; two, how-
ever, of old ladies in their muslin caps and plain silk gowns are repro-
duced in Figures 250 and 252. Mrs. Pennington, sister of the Mayor
of Philadelphia, wears a dress of sage green under her kerchief. In
the original painting the colouring is very attractive. The other
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 259
portrait is copied from an engraving, but there is great charm in the
delicate face. The white sheer cap is fastened with a white ribbon
bow and the dress is probably of gray silk (Figure 252).
After the proclamation of peace with Great Britain, while Adams
was Minister to the English Court, his wife wrote full accounts of
the prevailing styles there for the benefit of her gay friends in the
United States. In 1786 she wrote:
"To amuse you then, my dear niece, I will give you an account
of the dress of the ladies at the ball of Comte d'Adhemar. There
was as great a variety of pretty dresses, borrowed wholly from France,
as I have ever seen; and amongst the rest, some with sapphire-blue
satin waists, spangled with silver, and laced down the back and seams
with silver stripes; white satin petticoats trimmed with black and
blue velvet ribbon; an odd kind of head-dress, which they term the
'Helmet of Minerva.' I did not observe the bird of wisdom, how-
ever, nor do I know whether those who wore the dress had suitable
pretentions to it. 'And pray,' say you 'how were my aunt and cousin
dressed?' If it will gratify you to know, you shall hear. Your
aunt, then, wore a full-dress court cap without the lappets, in which
was a wreath of white flowers, and blue sheafs, two black and ,blue
flat feathers (which cost her half a guinea apiece, but that you need
not tell of), three pearl pins, bought for Court, and a pair of pearl
earrings, the cost of them — no matter what ; less than diamonds, how-
ever. A sapphire blue demi-saison with a satin stripe, sack and
petticoat trimmed with a broad black lace; crape flounce, etc., leaves
made of blue ribbon, and trimmed with white floss; wreaths of black
velvet ribbon spotted with steel beads, which are much in fashion
and brought to such perfection as to resemble diamonds; white rib-
bon also in the Vandyke style, made up the trimming, which looks
very elegant; and a full dress handkerchief, and a bouquet of roses.
'Full gay, I think, for my aunt.' That is true, Lucy, but nobody
is old in Europe. I was seated next the Duchess of Bedford, who
»
26o
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
had a scarlet satin sack and coat, with a cushion full of diamonds,
for hair she had none,
and is but seventy-six
neither. Well now for
your cousin: a small
white leghorn hat, bound
with pink satin ribbon;
a steel buckle and band
which turned up at the
side, and confined a large
pink bow; a large bow
of the same kind of rib-
bon behind; a wreath of
full blown roses round
the crown, and another
of buds and roses within-
side the hat, which, be-
ing placed at the back
of the hair, brought the
roses to the edge; you
see it clearly; one red
and black feather with
two white ones, com-
pleted the head-dress. A
gown and coat of Cham-
beri gauze, with a red
satin stripe over a pink
waist, and coat flounced
with crape, trimmed with
broad point and pink
ribbon; wreaths of roses across the coat, gauze sleeves and ruffles."
As costumes similar to those described by Mrs. Adams may be
7 /'>•
Figure 249.
A Riding Habit about 1785 (from a Contemporary
Print).
Figure 250.
Figure 251.
Figure 252.
Figure 253.
261
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 263
seen in Racinet, Pauquet, and other books of French costume, it is
not necessary to give pictures of them here.
The small proportion of the people in America in the latter years
of the eighteenth century who could truthfully be called gay lived,
of course, in the large towns and cities; the majority lived quietly in
the country on their large estates or plantations. The ''History of
Durham, Connecticut," * describes the home customs as well as the
home costumes of rural New England from 1776 to 1800.
"The inhabitants were generally clad in fabrics manufactured,
that is made by hand, in the family. There was woolen cloth spun
in the house but fulled and dressed at the clothier's shop. There
was brown tow cloth, and streaked linen for the males, with bleached
linen for shirts. In the summer they generally wore brown tow
or linen trowsers and frock; the latter being a kind of over shirt.
The fulled cloth worn in the winter time though often coarse was
warm. It was sometimes very decent in appearance when made
of fine wool, well spun and well dressed. The females were clad
in streaked linen or checked linen, on week days, and in chintzes and
it may be muslins and silks on the Sabbath. The wedding gowns
if not muslin were sometimes brocade or lutestring. Near the close
of the last century silk was reeled and woven in Durham. For a
considerable time the women wore cloaks of scarlet broadcloth. In
the year 1800 women might be seen on the Sabbath riding or walking
in the street or sitting at church having on these cloaks; a very comely
and comfortable article of dress. Chaises were introduced into, Dur-
ham about 1775 or '80. For some years there were only three chaises
in the town. The people went to meeting on horseback, the women
sitting behind the men on pillions. While this fashion continued
every house had a horse-block. A characteristic of the houses built
in the first half century after the settlement of Durham was the large
kitchen fireplace, which in some cases was seven or eight feet in
' * By Chauncey Fowler.
264
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
width, having sometimes one and sometimes two ovens in it, admitting
back logs two or three feet in diameter, and three or four children
into the chimney 'corners.'
The large and steady fire
on the hearth in such a fire-
place shone on the faces of
many a family circle, gath-
ered together on a winter's
evening. To many a large
family of eight or ten chil-
dren the hearth-stone was
a load stone to draw them
around it. There was
knitting for the mother
and the elder daughters.
There were the slates for
the older sons. There were
apples and nuts for the
younger children, or it may
be a lesson in spelling.
There were the two vol-
umes from the Town
Library for the father and
others. There was story
telling and song singing.
There was the mug of
cider enlivened by red pep-
per against cold. There
was the family Bible and
there was prayer before
retiring to rest. In short, there were family government, family
instruction, family amusement, and family religion."
Figure 254.
A Summer Costume, 1 790-1 795 (from a Contem-
porary Portrait).
26s
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 267
On the occasion of the inauguration of Washington as President,
in New York, his dress is described as of fine dark brown cloth of
American manufacture, with white silk hose, shoes with silver buckles,
and a dress sword. The ball which followed brought out all the
j&nery the women of the young Republic could afford. This is the
description given in "The Republican Court":
"New York, 1789. Inauguration Ball.
" The costume of the time is very well illustrated by the portraits
of the day, of which fortunately there are many, but some readers
may be interested in the remarks on the dresses of the women which
form a portion of Colonel Stone's description of the First Inaugura-
tion Ball. "Few jewels," he says, "were then worn in the United
States, but in other respects the dresses were rich and beautiful,
according to the fashion of the day. We are not quite sure that we
can describe the full dress of a lady of rank in the period under con-
sideration, so as to render it intelligible, but we will make the attempt.
One favorite dress was a plain celestial blue satin gown with a white
satin petticoat. On the neck was worn a large Italian gauze hand-
kerchief, with border stripes of satin. The head-dress was a pouf
of gauze, in the form of a globe, the creneaux or head piece of which
was composed of white satin, having a double wing, in large plaits,
and trimmed with a wreath of artificial roses, falling from the left
at the top to the right at the bottom, in front, and the reverse behind.
The hair was dressed all over in detached curls, four of which, in two
ranks, fell on each side of the neck, and were relieved behind by a
floating chignon. Another beautiful dress was a perriot made of
gray Indian taffeta, with dark stripes of the same colour, having two
collars, the one of yellow, and the other white, both trimmed with
a blue silk fringe, and a revere trimmed in the same manner. Under
the perriot was worn a yellow corset or bodice, with large cross
stripes of blue. Some of the ladies wore hats a VEspagnole of white
y
268
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
satin, with a band of the same material placed on the crown, like
a wreath of flowers on the head-dress above mentioned. This hat,
with a plume, a popu-
lar article of dress, was
relieved on the left side,
having two handsome
cockades, one of which
was at the top and the
other at the bottom. On
the neck was worn a
very large plain gauze
handkerchief, the end of
which was hid under the
bodice; after the manner
represented in T r u m -
bull's and Stuart's por-
traits of Lady Washing-
ton. Round the bosom
of the perriot a fall of
gauze, a la Henri IV,
was attached, cut in
points around the edge.
There was still another
dress which was thought
to be very simple and
pretty. It consisted of a
perriot and a petticoat,
both composed of the
same description of gray
striped silk, and trimmed
round with gauze, cut points at the edges in the manner of herrisons.
The herrisons were indeed nearly the sole trimming used for perriots,
Figure 259.
Woman in Typical Working Dress, 1 790-1800 (taken
from Original Garment at Stenton, Philadelphia).
269
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 271
caracos, and petticoats of fashionable ladies, made either of ribbons or
Italian gauze. With this dress they wore large gauze handkerchiefs
upon their necks, with four satin stripes around the border, two of
which were narrow, and the other broad. The head-dress was a
plain gauze cap, after the form of the elders and ancients of a nun- y
nery. The shoes were celestial blue, with rose coloured rosettes. Such j/
are descriptions of some of the principal costumes, and although
varied in divers unimportant particulars, by several ladies, according
to their respective tastes and fancies, yet as with the peculiar fashions
of all other times, there was a general correspondence — the tout
ensemble was the same."
A perriot was evidently an overdress. The name betrays the
French influence, and as it is always mentioned in connection with
a petticoat it probably opened in front like a polonaise or sacque.
It was so much the custom of the women of that time to write verses,
that the following lines by Mrs. Warren* on the frivolities of 1790
have more interest on account of the theme than the literary style
could possibly claim:
"Woman's Trifling Needs.
"An inventory clear
Of all she needs Lamira offers here;
Nor does she fear a rigid Cato's frown
When she lays by the rich embroidered gown,
And modestly compounds for just enough —
Perhaps, some dozens of more flighty stuff;
With lawns and lustrings, blond and Mechlin laces,
Fringes and jewels, fans and tweezer-cases ;
Gay cloaks and hats of every shape and size,
Scarfs, cardinals, and ribbons of all dyes;
With niflfles stamped, and aprons of tambour,
Tippets and handkerchiefs, at least three score;
With finest muslins that fair India boasts,
And the choice herbage from Chinesan coasts;
(But while the fragrant Hyson leaf regales,
♦Poems Dramatic and Miscellaneous.
272 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Who'll wear the homespun produce of the vales?
For if 'twould save the nation from the curse
Of standing troops ; or — name a plague still worse —
Few can this choice, dehcious draught give up,
Though all Medea's poisons fill the cup.)
Add feathers, furs, rich satins and ducapes,
And head-dresses in pyramidal shapes;
Sideboards of plate and porcelain profuse,
With fifty dittos that the ladies use;
If my poor treacherous memory has missed,
Ingenious T shall complete the list.
So weak Lamira, and her wants so few.
Who can refuse? — they're but the sex's due.
In youth indeed, an antiquated page
Taught us the threatenings of an Hebrew sage
'Gainst wimples, mantles, curls, and crisping-pins,
But rank not these among our modern sins:
For when our manners are well understood,
What in the scale is stomacher or hood?
'Tis true, we love the courtly mien and air,
The pride of dress and all the debonair;
Yet Clara quits the more dressed negUgee,
And substitutes the careless polanee;
Untill some fair one from Brittania's court,
Some jaunty dress or newer taste import;
This sweet temptation could not be withstood,
Though for the purchase paid her father's blood.
Can the stern patriot Clara's suit deny ?
'Tis beauty asks, and reason must comply."
The portrait by Copley of Mercy Warren, reproduced as a frontis-
piece to her biography in the popular series "Women of Colonial
and Revolutionary Times," represents her in a brocade sacque richly
trimmed with lace and a small fly cap, under which the hair is
arranged low and without powder.
Mr. Wansey, the English traveller, describes a visit to the theatre
in Philadelphia, which he said was "as elegant and convenient and
large as Covent Garden. I should have thought myself still in Eng-
land judging by the appearance of the company around me. The
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
273
ladies wore small bonnets of the same fashion as those I saw in Lon-
don — some of chequered straw; many had their hair full dressed,
without caps, as with us, and very few had it in the French style.
The younger ladies appeared with their hair flowing in ringlets on
their shoulders (Figure 254). The gentlemen had round hats, coats
with high collars, cut quite in the English fashion, and many coats
of striped silk."
In 1795 a very decided change in women's dress is noted. Soft
clinging materials superseded the stiff brocades and rustling silks.
Gowns were made with narrow
skirts and short bodices with long
tight-fitting sleeves; the shoulders
were generally uncovered, but
muslin or gauze handkerchiefs
were sometimes worn in the
house, while for outdoor wear, long
scarfs were put on around the
shoulders and fell to the feet in
front. Hair was worn in loose
curls, generally caught up with a
comb or knot of ribbon. Caps
for elderly people were made in a variety of styles (Figures 224,
225, 253, 259).
In her memoirs, Elizabeth Bowne takes the trouble to describe
just how the gowns of her day were made. In 1798 she writes to
her family:
"The gown patterns I shall enclose, the one with a fan back is
meant to just meet before and pin in the robings, no strings, belt
or anything. The other pattern is a plain waist with strips of the
same stitched on, and laced between with bobbin or cord. I have
a muslin done so with black silk cord, which looks very handsome,
and I have altered my brown silk into one like the other pat-
FlGtTRE 265.
Back of Mauve Cr6pe.
274
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
tern. I was over at Saco yesterday and saw one Mary (King) had
made in Boston. It was a separate waist, or rather the breadth did
not go quite up. The waist
was plain with one stripe of
cording let in behind and the
rest of the waist was perfectly
plain. The skirt part was
plaited in box plaits three of a
side, which reached to the
shoulder straps and only enough
left to meet straight before, and
is one of the patterns I have
sent."
In Figure 341 the picture of
a dress is given which has an
interesting story connected with
it (Figure 265).
The owner. Mile. Henrietta
Madeline 1' Official de Wofoin
(afterwards Mrs. Sartori), was a
god-daughter of Queen Marie
Antoinette, her father being an
officer at the Court of Louis
XVI, who was sent to San
Domingo on official business
just before the outbreak of the
French Revolution. Soon after
occurred the insurrection of the
Negroes against the whites in
San Domingo. M. de Wofoin
managed to escape to this country, but lost all traces of his daughter
in the excitement and knew nothing of her fate. He made his way
Figure 266
Pelisse of Sage-green Silk with Quilted Border
(from an Original Garment of 1797).
Figure 267.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 277
to Trenton, New Jersey, and while there wandered one day into the
market-place, where he met his daughter's old black nurse. She
told him that she had brought "Mademoiselle" to America and also
to Trenton. Shortly after young Sartori, who had been sent from
Rome by his father to visit this country, arrived at Trenton and fell
in love with Mademoiselle. They were married and lived at Lam-
bertville, New Jersey. Mrs. Sartori died at the age of forty, having
been the mother of fifteen children. The original gown from which
this picture is taken has been most kindly lent to us for this book,
by a direct descendant of the heroine of the story.
A dress of a quaint cut and of a fine glazed cotton unknown
to-day came from Martinique with Madame Chevalier, who be-
came a pensioner at Christ Church Hospital, Philadelphia, in the
last years of the eighteenth century (Figures 248, 342).
This fashion of short waists and narrow skirts for women (Figures
341, 342, 344) and high-collared coats short at the waist for men
marked the end of the eighteenth century.
CHILDREN'S GARMENTS
I 700-1 800
FINERY
In a frock neatly trimmed with beautiful lace,
And hair nicely dressed, hanging over her face,
Thus decked, Harriet went to the house of a friend,
With a large little party the evening to spend.
"Ah! how they will all be delighted, I guess.
And stare with surprise at my elegant dress";
Thus said the vain girl, and her Httle heart beat,
Impatient the happy young party to meet.
But alas! they were all too intent on their fun
To observe the gay clothes this fine lady had on;
And thus all her trouble quite lost its design,
For they saw she was proud, but forgot she was fine.
'T was Lucy, though only in simple white clad
(Nor trimmings, nor laces, nor jewels she had).
Whose cheerful good-nature delighted them more
Than all the fine garments that Harriet wore.
'Tis better to have a sweet smile on one's face
Than to wear a rich frock with an elegant lace.
For the good-natured girl is loved best in the main
If her dress is but decent, though ever so plain.
-J. T.
281
Children's Garments
1 700-1 800
HE clothes of the children of the eighteenth century-
were marvellously made and quaintly resembled
the garments of their parents. From many
authorities we learn that children wore stays in
Colonial times, and one interesting specimen, of
which a picture is given in Figures 280 and 281,
has been most kindly lent for this book. This
particular pair of stays was evidently worn by a
child of about two years old. One little gown
Figure 269. q£ which I Cannot learn the exact history,
although it belonged to the family of James Logan, is made with
elbow sleeves and square neck, the bodice evidently to be worn over
stays, and the skirt opening over a petticoat. This is made of
flowered chintz. (Figure 271.) Another child's dress is made in
the same style, but the bodice opens over a sort of stomacher in
front, and the material is of heavy damask linen. The sleeves of
this gown are finished at the cuffs with three tiny buttons, worked
over with linen thread (Figure 272).
Dresses of a little later period, probably 1750, are made with even
greater skill, of fine white cambric with low necks and short sleeves
fastened up with buttons and loops of narrow tape on the shoulder.
They are ornamented with groups of the very tiniest tucks, with
13 283
284 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
cording and tambour embroidery. Caps, which babies wore both by
day and night, are also of exquisite needlework. Socks, worked with
the initials of the baby, were knitted of fine white silk. One little
pair of this kind is owned by the Pennsylvania Society of Colonial
Dames, which was worn in babyhood by Isaac Norris, Speaker of
the Continental Congress. Little mitts of linen were worn by these
babies too. The pictures given here are of mitts worn in Pennsyl-
vania by babies of the Norris and Logan families (Figures 272, 277).
One minute pair is marked in red silk with the initials J. L. in mono-
gram. A quaint little gown of buff chintz with flowers in different
colours scattered over it is given in Figure 276. This was worn by
a child of two years in the West family.
In the Museum of Memorial Hall, Philadelphia, there is a child's
quilted hood of about 1760 made of dark blue silk, and some charm-
ing little gowns and caps of even earlier date may be seen in the
Museum of the Colonial Dames at Stenton, Philadelphia (Figures
271, 272).
Very interesting are the infant dress and cap shown in Figure
286, not only on account of the skilled needlework, but also for the
history associated with them. The baby for whom these clothes
were made so beautifully grew in time to be a patriotic doctor in New
York, and being called upon one day, in 1789, to apply a fly blister
to the chest of our great Washington, he mounted the poultice on a
piece of white kid and decorated the edges with a pattern in gold
leaf. As he was in the act of placing the plaster the illustrious patient
startled him by the question, "Will it draw any better for the decora-
tion, young man?" We are told that the doctor finished his work
in great confusion, but he lived to be proud of the opportunity which
has lent an additional interest even to his baby clothes. It must be
confessed that our picture fails to show the exquisite drawn- work
where the threads of sheerest muslin have been drawn at intervals
to form a stripe of open work and a delicate pattern embroidered
Figure 270
Figure 271 Figure 272 Figure 273 Figure 274
Figure 275
Figure 276 Figure 277
Figure 278
Figure 279
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
287
on the filmy mesh (Figure 286). A simple everyday slip of printed
cotton, white ground with a pin dot of red, belonged to .the same
baby.*
â– Until the latter part of the eighteenth century it was customary
to dress children exactly like their parents. This we learn from old
portraits, and very uncomfortable must the powdered wigs and lace
stocks have been at a Royal Juvenile Party such as Queen Caroline
Figure 280.
Figure 281.
A Child's Stays,
delighted in giving for the diversion of her large family of prince-
lings, where the children were dressed in miniature copies of their
parents' court costumes.f
In the Colonies the dress of the children was strangely elaborate.
In the collection of Washington's manuscripts (edited by Ford) are
two lists of clothes ordered for the Custis children at the tender ages
of four and six, which would startle a modern nursery. Washington
* Samuel Holden Parsons Lee, born in Connecticut, 1771.
t Chronicles of Fashion.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
ordered for young Custis, his stepson (aged six), the following outfit
from England in 1759:
One piece Irish Holland at 4s
Two yards fine cambric at los
Six pocket handkerchiefs small and fine
Six pairs gloves
Two laced hats
Two pieces India Nankeen
Six pairs fine thread stockings
Four pairs coarser thread stockings
Six pairs worsted stockings
Four pairs pumps
One summer suit of clothes to be made of something light and thin
One piece of black hair ribbon
One pair handsome silver shoe and knee buckles
One light duflfel cloak with silver frogs
And for little Nellie Custis, then at the age of four, the following
articles were ordered:
Eight yards fine printed linen at 3 s 6d
One piece Irish Holland at 4s
Two ells of fine Holland at los
Eight pairs kid mits •
Four pairs gloves
Two pairs silk shoes
Four pairs Calamanco shoes
Four pairs leatheV pumps
Six pairs fine thread stockings
Four pairs fine worsted stockings
Two fans
Two masks
Two bonnets
One stiffened coat of fashionable silk made to pack thread stays
One-half piece of flowered Dimity
Two yards fine cambric at los
Two caps
Two pairs ruffles
Two tucker bibs and aprons, if fashionable.
In addition to this order for suitable clothing and materials, the great
man, under whose beneficent care it was the good fortune of the
Figure 282.
Figure 283
Figure 284.
'^ Figure 285.
289
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
291
Custis children to come, added los. worth of toys, six little books for
children beginning to read, one fashionably dressed baby, los. id.,
and other toys, los.
In New England, too, children were most richly attired; and we
read with amazement of a boarding-school outfit provided for two
maidens of Norwich.
"The daughters of General Huntington wei-e sent successively
at the ages of twelve and fourteen years to finish their education at
a boarding-school in Boston. The lady who kept the establishment
was of high social standing, and made a point of taking her pupils
often into company, that their manners might be formed according
to the prevailing codes of politeness and etiquette. Of course the
Figure 286.
Baby Dress and Cap, 1771.
wardrobe prepared for the young ladies was rich in articles of orna-
ment and display. One of the daughters who had been carefully
fitted out with twelve silk gowns, had been but a short time in Bos-
ton when her instructress wrote to her parents requesting that another
dress should be procured for her, made of a certain rich fabric that
had recently been imported, in order that her appearance in society
might be equal to her rank. A thirteenth robe of silk of an exquisite
pattern was therefore immediately procured and forwarded." *
"Little misses at a dancing- school ball (for these were almost
the only fetes that fell to their share in the days of discrimination)
were dressed in frocks of lawn or cambric. Worsted was then thought
* History of Norwich.
292
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
dress enough for common days,"* the famous annalist tells us, in
speaking of Philadelphia children in the Revolutionary period.
Marie Antoinette was the first mother to disregard the estab-
lished court fashion. She had a simple suit of jacket and trousers
made for the Dauphin, but the
Chronicle of Fashion assures us that
"even this, probably the most sen-
sible of all the ill-fated Queen's
innovations in dress, was reviled
as if the paraphernalia of full dress
was a moral obligation."
\ In the portraits of English chil-
dren in the latter part of the century,
we become familiar with costumes
at once simple and picturesque, as
in Figures 269, 277, 278, 279, 287.
Copley's well-known family group,
and the picture of his family by Ben-
jamin West (Figure 225), are satis-
factory evidence of the adoption of
these appropriate fashions for the
children of the Colonies.
Figures 284 and 285 are photo-
graphed from portraits of two little girls in the New York Colony
during the reign of Queen Anne, in gowns so stiff and so unsuitable
they would have baffled even the graceful brush of a Reynolds or
a Romney.
Figure 287.
Boy in Ordinary Dress, 1790.
* Watson's Annals.
MEN'S APPAREL
1700-1800
During the Time of
Queen Anne, George I, II, and III of England,
Presidents Washington and Adams
of the United States
GOVERNOR WENTWORTH.
"A portly person, with three-cornered hat,
A crimson velvet coat, head high in air.
Gold-headed cane and nicely powdered hair,
And diamond buckles sparkling at his knees,
Dignified, stately, florid, much at ease.
For this was Governor Wentworth, driving down
To Little Harbour, just beyond the town,
Where his great house stood, looking out to sea,
A goodly place, where it was good to be.
It was a pleasant mansion, an abode
Near and yet hidden from the great highroad;
Sequestered among trees, a noble pile.
Baronial and Colonial in its style!
Within, unwonted splendours met the eye,
Panels and floors of oak, and tapestry;
Carved chimney pieces, where, on brazen dogs.
Revelled and roared the Christmas fire of logs;
Doors opening into darkness unawares,
Mysterious passages and flights of stairs;
And on the walls, in heavy gilded frames.
The ancestral Wentworths, with old Scripture names.
Such was the mansion where the great man dwelt.
He gave a splendid banquet served on plate
Such as became the Governor of the State
Who represented England and the King,
And was magnificent in everything."
— " The Poet's Tale."
297
Men's Apparel
I 700-1 800
ERIWIGS and cocked hats were the character-
istic features of the dress of men in the first
half of the eighteenth century.
REIGNS OF QUEEN ANNE AND
GEORGE I
Under Queen Anne the hats worn by men
were smaller and were regularly cocked on
three sides, and the cuffs of the coats were
Figure 294. very wide and long, reaching almost to the
wrist. The broad sword belt had vanished, and
the sword hilt could be seen beneath the stiffened skirt of the square-
cut coat (Figure 163). Blue or scarlet silk stockings, with gold or 1/
silver clocks, were much worn, as were also shoes with red heels and ,.
small buckles (Figure 163); velvet garters were worn over the stock-
ings below the knee, being fastened on one side by small buckles
(Figure 163). Campaign wigs imported from France now became
popular. They were made very full with long curls hanging
towards the front (Figure 163). When human hair was scarce, a
little horsehair supplied the place, in the part least in sight.
In 1706 a peculiar cock of the hat came into fashion called the'^
Ramilie, and a long plaited tail to the wig with a great bow at the top
and a small one at the bottom known as the Ramilie wig (Figure 299).
Those who did not wear powder and who objected to the
299
300 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
enormous expense or weight of the fashionable wigs, wore their own
hair in long curls to resemble them, but the long popularity of the
uncomfortable fashion of the periwig is indeed astonishing.
Dr. Granger in his Life of Charles II, speaking of the fashion
when it first came into vogue, says: "It was observed that a periwig
procured many persons a respect and even veneration which they
were strangers to before and to which they had not the least claims
from their personal merit," and he quotes the amusing anecdote of a
country gentleman who employed a painter to place periwigs upon
the heads of several of Vandyke's portraits. Large wigs were
worn until the middle of the eighteenth century. A plain peruke
imitating a natural head of hair was called a short bob.
A facetious barber in London had the following rhyme painted
on the sign over his door: *
"Oh Absolom, Oh Absolom,
Oh Absolom my son,
If thou hadst worn a periwig
Thou hadst not been undone."
The ridiculous long wigs of 1710 were decidedly expensive. One
is mentioned in "The Tatler" costing 40 guineas.
We read that in Philadelphia early in the eighteenth century men
were wearing "cocked hats, and wigs, coats with large cuffs, big
skirts, lined and stiffened with buckram. The coat of a beau had
three or four large plaits in the skirt, wadded almost like a coverlet
to keep them smooth, cuffs very large up to the elbows, the collars
were flat and low, so as readily to expose the close plaited neck-stock
of fine linen cambric and the large silver stock-buckle on the back
of the neck, shirts with hand ruffles, sleeves finely plaited, breeches
close fitted, with silver, stone or paste buckles, shoes or pumps with
silver buckles of various sizes and patterns, thread, worsted and silk
stockings. The very boys often wore wigs, and their clothing in
general was similar to that of the men."
* Hone's Every Day Book.
.^â– ^dtf^^^^^l^^^H^' '^^^buhhhp
r
ICS
l^p^TS.----
â– 7=3
^K,^*^
^ ?^^
301
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
303
In the year 17 19 Jonathan Dickinson, a Friend, in writing to
London for his clothes, says, " I want for myself and my three sons, each
a wig — good light bobs."
The reign of George I
ofEers no distinctive changes
for remark. Wigs held
their ground, and in 1720
white hair for the manu-
facture of them "brought
a monstrous price."
Heavy cloaks or Roque-
laures were still worn by
men and were often
trimmed with fur. Men-
tion is made in letters from
New England about 1720
of a striped camlet cloak
lined with a plain colour.
Drugget was also used for
the purpose (Figure 297).
The ordinary costume
of gentlemen during the
reigns of Queen Anne and
George I' is thus briefly
summed up by M. Planche
in his "History of British
Costume." He says:
"Square cut coats and long
flapped waistcoats with
pockets in them, the latter
meeting the stockings, still drawn up over the knee so high as entirely
to conceal the breeches, but gartered below it; large hanging cuffs and
,i.J^-
Figure 297.
Taken from a Genuine Roquelaure, Middle of
the Eighteenth Century.
304
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
lace ruffles. The skirt of the coat stiffened out with wire or buckram
from beneath which peeped the hilt of the sword deprived of the
cord and splendid belt in which it swung in the preceding Reigns.
Blue or scarlet silk stockings with gold or silver clocks. Lace neck-
cloths, square-toed, short quartered shoes, with high red heels and
small buckles; very long and formally curled perukes (or periwigs),
black riding wigs, and night cap wigs; small three cornered hats
laced with gold or silver galloons, and sometimes trimmed with feathers
comprised the habit of the noblemen and gentlemen from 1702 to 1724."
As in all ages and all climes, variations of the prevailing style
were indulged in by gay young men about town. The pet extrav-
agance at this period was beautiful lace in ruffles and neckties.
Figure 298,
Periwig with Tail, 1700.
Figure 299.
Ramilie Wig, 1730.
Figure 30x3.
Bag Wig, 1750.
Queen Anne had a zealous care for the English church in America
and took personal pleasure in sending beautiful services of silver to
parishes in all her colonies. Many of these may be seen to-day with
an historic inscription and the Queen's initials engraved in the simple
script of her time. In her reign the dress of the English clergyman
was inconspicuous but distinctive, and with slight modifications was
worn by the majority of clergymen in America. Knee-breeches fitting
close, buckled shoes, long black coats, and wigs were the prevailing
characteristics in everyday life. In connection with the portrait
305
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 307
of Bishop White of Pennsylvania given in Figure 358, it is interesting
to recall the story told by himself of his appointment as chaplain to the
Continental Congress. He was riding with a friend when a messen-
ger from Congress overtook him. He hesitated for a few moments,
realizing the danger of enrolling himself with the cause of the patriots,
but after a short deliberation he turned his horse's head and accom-
panied the emissary to General Washington's headquarters before
Yorktown.* It was a brave step which he never regretted, and his
name has ever been associated with the early sessions of our Congress
in Philadelphia. Bishop White was consecrated at Lambeth Palace
in 1787, and, despite his republican partisanship, amid many tokens
of good will on the part of the king and others.
REIGN OF GEORGE II
There are numerous authorities for the costume of George II's
reign, but the versatile genius of Hogarth I alone has furnished us
with sufficient material for a study of the dress of all classes and con-
ditions of the English men and women of his day. His "Five Orders
of Periwigs" gives us the favorite varieties of that style of head-gear,
which was certainly a very expensive fashion, for in 1734 we read
that in the Colonies periwigs of light gray human hair were four
guineas each. Light grizzle ties were three guineas, and other colours
in proportion, down to twenty-five shillings. Light gray human
hair cue-perukes were from two guineas to fifteen shillings each, and
bob perukes of the same material a little dearer, real gray hair
being most in fashion, and dark of " no estimation."
The court dress of noblemen in 1735 is described as a coat made
of coloured velvet or fine cloth laced with gold or silver, breeches to
match; waistcoat of rich flowered silk of a large pattern on a white
ground. Wigs were still worn with large curls standing up from
the forehead (Figure 296).
* Simpson's Lives of Eminent Philadelphians. t Born 1697; died 1764.
3o8
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Fairholt in his "History of English Dress" says: "By the cock
of the hat, the man who wore it was known; and they varied
from the modest broad
brim of the clergy and
country-man to the
slightly upturned hat
of the country gentle-
man or citizen, or the
more decidedly fash-
ionable cock worn by
merchantmen, and
would - be - fashionable
Londoners; while a
very pronounced a la
militaire cock was
affected by the gallant
about the court." All
of these styles may be
seen in the pictures of
Hogarth. These hats
were usually made of
soft felt with a large
brim caught up by
three loops of cord to
a button on the top.
Being soft, they could
be crushed under the
arm and each flap
could be let down at
pleasure in case of
wind, or rain, or sun. Mr. Wingfield speaks of a hat "unlooped
although it doth not rain," and observes that in one of Cibber's
Figure 303.
Back View of Figure 229, Middle Eighteenth Century (from
the Original Costume).
Figure 304.
Figure 305.
P'iGURE 306.
Figure 307.
Figure 308.
Figure 309.
309
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 311
comedies we find a footman ''unlooping his hat to protect his
powdered head from the wet."
To use the snuff-box gracefully was an accomplishment considered
necessary to the young man of fashion on his entrance into the gay
world of the eighteenth century. Made of every sort of metal, adorned
with precious stones or costly miniature paintings, the snuff-box was
in great demand, and considered as indispensable on occasions of full
dress as the fan. Many of these boxes which were used in the Colonies
have been preserved. In Figure 239 is given a picture of one owned by
Madame Le Comte, for the fashion of using snufif was not confined
to men.
A beau of this time is spoken of as "appearing in a different style
of wig every day, and thus perplexing the lady to whom he was
paying his addresses, by a new face every time they met during
the first months of their courtship. Hats could be moulded in so
many different cocks as to change the whole appearance of the
wearer." *
Hats had broader brims (Figure 197) and "were cocked triangu-
larly, and pulling them off by way of salutation was invariably the
fashion for all who had any breeding," according to a famous letter-
writer of that day. Boots were worn for riding, with large broad
tops which reached half-way up the thigh.
The fashionable costume for men in the Colonies, identical with
the prevailing style in England, was not subject to quite as many
changes as the dress of the women.
In 1740 a "jockey coat" was ordered from Boston of fine cloth
with waistcoat and breeches to match. It is "to be trimmed plain,
only with a button of the same sort as that of the waistcoat but pro-
portionately bigger." The same gendeman ordered "as much three
pile black velvet as is made for men's wear, and the best that can
be had for the money, as much as will make a complete suit." In
* The Spectator.
14
312 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
addition to this he desires a^ght-gown of a deep crimson Genoa
damask lined with the same colour.
About this time there was a slight change in shoes. Square toes
went out of fashion and were replaced by pointed toes for both sexes.
(See Figures 229, 231.) Buckles became the ambition of all classes,
and were worn of every size and shape.
Claret coloured cloth was at that time considered the correct
thing for suits, and light blue with silver button-holes and silver garters
at the knees, was also very fashionable between 1740 and 1751.
Pigtails came into fashion about the middle of the eighteenth
century.
" ' But pray what's that much Hke a whip,
Which with the air does wav'ring skip
From side to side, and hip to hip?'
'Sir, do not look so fierce and big
It is a modish pigtail wig.' "
Instead of swords, many of the gay young sparks carried long
oak sticks with ugly faces carved on the handles.
One of the marked characteristics of the men of fashion in the
eighteenth century was a mincing air. We read of Horace Walpole
that "he always entered a room with that style of affected delicacy
which fashion had made almost natural; with chapeau-hras be-
tween his hands as if he wished to compress it, or under his arm;
knees bent, and feet on tip-toe as if afraid of a wet floor." *
About 1740 the large cocked hat and full-bottomed wig went
out of style, and the lace cravat with long ends, which had been in
fashion for about thirty years, gave place to a small black cravat
worn with a ruffled shirt front (Figure 197.) There was a change
in the coat also. A broad coUar which turned back round the neck
contrasted strangely with the total want of collar in the earlier style,
while the cuffs became very deep, reaching above the elbows and not
very wide at the wrists. The coat itself fitted close to the body with
skirt reaching to the calf of the leg. This change of style did not
* Miss Hawkins' Memoirs.
Figure 310.
Figure 311.
Figure 3::
Figure 313.
3^3
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
315
long remain popular even in England. In prints of 1744 we again
notice the wide cuffs and wider hat brims of a few years before.
About 1750 muff-
tees, or little woolen
muffs of various
colours, were used by
men in the Colonies.
They were "just big
enough to admit both
hands and long enough
to screen the wrists,
which were then more
exposed than now ; for
they wore short sleeves
to their coats on pur-
pose to display their
fine plaited linen shirt
sleeves with their gold
cuff buttons and on oc-
casions ruffles of lace."
(Figures 182, 214,)
In the summer sea-
son men often wore
calico morning gowns
at all times of the day in
the street as well as at
home, A damask ban-
yan was much the same
thing by another name.
We can hardly
wonder that in Virginia and the southern colonies the hot wigs and
cumbrous petticoats prescribed by fashion were often found too
lyst:;^.
^s^l^^ ,^.j
Figure 314.
Gentleman in Banyan and Cap.
3i6 HISTORIC DRESS, IN AMERICA
uncomfortable for daily wear, and we read with a certain sense of
relief, of a negligee costume of banyans and nightcaps adopted by
the planters and their wives.
The climate must be remembered as a potent inducement to go
without the long curled wigs and wadded coats; and, alas, the discom-
fort of stiff stays and voluminous petticoats in an American summer!
REIGN OF GEORGE III
In 1760, when wigs were powdered, they were frequently sent for
that purpose in a wooden box to the barber to be dressed on his block-
head. "Brown wigs," for which a brown powder was used, were
worn, but were less fashionable than "the white disguise."
On ceremonious occasions, if wigs were not worn, the hair was
craped, curled, and powdered by barbers.
About 1770, when wigs went out of favour and the natural hair
was preferred, it became the fashion to dress it in a queue, or to
wear it in a black silk bag tied with a bow of black ribbon (Figures
303^ 318, 352, 353, 354, 355).
With the queues belong frizzled sidelocks, and toupees formed of
the natural hair, or in the absence of a long tie a splice was added
to it (Figures 352, 353, 354, 355). Such was the general passion
for the longest possible whip of hair, that sailors and boatmen used
to tie theirs in eel skins to aid its growth.
A curious silhouette of Washington by Folwell represents him
with what is supposed to* be a fine net worn over hair and queue
to keep the powder in place (Figure 357).
A colonial item of interest is gleaned from Washington's manu-
scripts. In 1759 he ordered from England for his own use:
"A New-market great coat with a loose hood (Figure 364) to it,
made of Blew Drab or broadcloth with straps before, according
to the present taste — let it be made of such cloth as will turn a good
shower of rain."
Figure 315.
Figure 3x6.
i-ir,URF. 31;
Figure 318
317
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
319
''A light summer suit of Duroy by the measure,
Four pieces best India nankeen,
Two best plain beaver hats at 20s.
One piece of black satin ribbon,
I sword belt, red morocco or buflf, no buckles or rings,"
are also ordered on the same date.
In Watson's "Annals of Philadelphia" we read: "Coats of red
cloth were considerably worn, even by boys, and plush breeches
and plush vests of various colours, were in common use. Everlasting,
or durant, made of worsted, was a fabric of great use for breeches,
and sometimes for vests
which had great depend-
ing pocket flaps, and the
breeches were very short
above the stride because
the art of suspending
them by suspenders was
unknown. It was then
the test of a well-formed
man, that he could by
his natural form readily
keep his breeches above his hips, and his stockings without garter-
ing, above the calf of the leg.
" In the time of the Revolutionary war many of the American officers
introduced the use of Dutch blankets for great coats (Figure 364).
Large silver buttons worn on coats and vests were a mark of wealth.
Some people had the initials of their names engraved on each button.
Sometimes they were made out of real quarter dollars, with the coinage
impression still retained; these were used for the coats, and the
eleven-penny-bits for vests and breeches. One old gentleman wore
an entire suit decorated with conch shell buttons, silver mounted."
In New England before the Revolution, "powdered wigs full and (
curled were worn by clergymen and other dignitaries (Figures 304,
JACK- RIDING
BOOT.iyOZ-. GAITEX.IJZ/: BOOTS. l7S/f-7
Figure 319. Figure 320. Figure 321. Figure 322.
320 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
306, 307, 308, 317, 326, 329). A full-dress suit for a gentleman
was usually made of silk, with trimmings of gold and silver lace,
the waistcoat often richly embroidered."* Roquelaures and great
coats were worn of cloth or camlet in all the colonies.
Mr. Sydney George Fisher, the historian, despite his Quaker
ancestry, exclaims with unwonted enthusiasm : "Those were brave days
when the judges on the bench wore scarlet robes faced with
black; when the tailor shops, instead of the dull-coloured woolens
which they now offer, advertised, as in the New York Gazetteer
of May 13, 1773, 'scarlet, buff, green, blue, crimson, white, sky
blue, and other coloured superfine cloths'; when John Hancock, of
penmanship fame, is described in his home in Boston with a red
velvet skull-cap lined with white linen which was turned over the edge
of the velvet about three inches deep, a blue damask dressing-gown
lined with silk, a white stock, satin embroidered waistcoat, black satin
breeches, white silk stockings to his knees, and red morocco slippers, "f
V- ^\ ^y Thf^,,:fi^st umbrellas to ki^p off the ram were df oiled linen, very
coarse and clumsy, with rattan sticks. Before their time some physi-
cians and ministers used an oiled linen cape hooked round their shoul-
ders, looking not unlike the big coat-capes now in use. They were
only used for severe storms, like modern water-proofs.
We believe it was about the year 1771 that the first efforts were
made in Philadelphia to introduce the use of umbrellas in summer
as a protection from the sun. "They were then scouted in the public
'Gazette' as a ridiculous effeminacy. On the other hand, the
physicians recommended them to keep off vertigoes, epilepsies, sore
eyes, fevers, etc."
Watches were worn in fob pockets with seals attached by a ribbon,
but they were not in common use until the end of the century. {
* History of Norwich, by F. M. Caulkins.
t Men, Women, and Manners of Colonial Days.
X Watson's Annals.
FiGtTRE 323.
Figure 324.
Figure 325.
P'IGURE 326.
Figure 327.
321
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
323
Of New York in the eighteenth century we read: "Whether it be
in the journals of visitors or in private correspondence, we always get
the impression of a lively and
cheerful town, where people like
to come and from which they
are sorry to go away. In the
old days, indeed, there was a
restful sense of leisure which the
rapid pace of modem life has
ruthlessly destroyed."*
Although the style of living in
colonial New York was comfort-
able, with little display, when we
come to the subject of dress, we
find the case was very different.
Early in the eighteenth century
the streets of New York were gor-
geous with elaborate costumes.
Gay masculine garments are
described in inventories: Green
silk breeches, flowered with sil-
ver and gold, silver gauze
breeches, yellow fringed gloves,
lacquered hats, laced shirts and
neck-cloths.
From 1760 to 1770, gentle-
men in Massachusetts were wear-
ing "hats with broad brims
turned up into three corners
with loops at the sides; long
coats with large pocket-folds and cuflfs, and without collars
* Dutch and Quaker Colonies, by Fiske.
-JjM^i'^
Figure 328.
Working Garb, Middle Eighteenth Century,
1750-
324 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
(Figures 327 and 334.) The buttons were commonly plated, but
sometimes of silver, often as large as a half-dollar. Shirts had
bosom and wrist ruffles; and all wore gold or silver shirt-buttons
at the wrist united by a link. The waistcoat was long, with large
pockets; and the neckcloth or scarf was of fine white linen or figured
stuff broidered and the ends hanging loosely on the breast. The
breeches fitted close, with silver buckles at the knees. The legs
were covered with gray knitted stockings which on holidays
were exchanged for black or white silk. Boots with broad white
tops, or shoes with straps and large silver buckles, completed the
equipment."* It seems strange indeed that, during the eighteenth
century when men had so much fighting on hand, they should have
paid such attention to dress and fashion, but abundant proof
exists in the letters and diaries of the day that every detail, the width
of the cuff, the length of the cravat, the size even of the button-holes,
was to the masculine mind a matter of grave import. Apparently
the sword knot received as much attention as the sword. Even "the
greatest American," in his youthful days, paid exact attention to details.
"Memorandum: To have my coat made by the following direc-
tions; to be made a frock with the lapel breast, the lapel to contain
on each side six button-holes, and to be about five or six inches wide
all the way, equal, and to turn as the breast of the coat does, to have it
made very long waisted and in length to come down below the bend
ef the knee. The waist from the arm-pit to the fold to be exactly as
long or longer than from thence to the bottom, not to have more than
one fold in the skirt and the top to be made to turn in, and three
button-holes, the laps at the top to turn as the cape of the coat,
and bottom to come parallel with the button-holes, the last button-
hole in the breast to be right opposite to the button on the hip."t
At this time Washington was only a boy of fifteen.
* History of Lynn, Mass., by Lewis and Newhall.
t The writings of George Washington, edited by W. C. Ford.
Figure 329.
Figure 330.
Figure 331.
FiGUKE 332.
325
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
327
We learn that English tradesmen were apt to take advantage of
their colonial customers, and that Washington had occasion to protest
against things being sent to him from London that were unfashionable
and inferior in quality. We give his letter of September 28th, 1760:
''And here gentlemen, I cannot forbear ushering in a complaint
of the exorbitant prices of my goods
this year all of which are to come to
hand. For many years I have im-
ported goods from London as well as
other ports of Britain, and can truly
say I never had such a penny-worth
before. It would be a needless task
to enumerate every article that I have
cause to except against. Let it suffice
to say that woolens, linnens, nails,
etc., are mean in quality but not in
price, for in this they excel indeed,
far above any I have ever had.
"Let us beseech you gentlemen to
give the necessary directions for pur-
chasing of them upon the best terms.
It is needless for me to particularize,
the sorts, quality or taste I would
choose to have them in, unless it is
observed. And you may believe me
when I tell you that instead of getting
things good and fashionable in their
several kinds, we often have articles sent us that could only have been
used by our forefathers in the days of yore, 'tis a custom I have some
reason to believe with many shopkeepers and tradesmen in London,
when they know goods are bespoke for exportation, to palm some-
times old and sometimes very slight and indifferent goods upon us.
Figure 333.
Sporting Dress, Middle Eighteenth Cen-
tury (after Highmore).
328 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
taking care at the same time to advance lo, 15 or perhaps 20 per
cent, upon them. My packages, per the ' Polly,' Capt. Hooper, are
not yet come to hand, and the Lord only knows when they will
without more trouble than they are worth."
According to Fairholt, the costume of the ordinary classes during
the greater part of the eighteenth century was exceedingly simple,
consisting of a plain coat, buttoned up the front, a long waistcoat
reaching to the knees, but having capacious pockets with great over-
lapping flaps, a plain bobwig, a hat slightly turned up, and high
quartered shoes.
We read that, in 1 746, flat cocked hats were worn by English sailors,
and twenty years later, hats of glazed leather or of woolen thrums,
closely woven, and looking like rough knap; and their "small clothes,"
as we would say now, were immense wide petticoat-breeches, open
at the knees, and not extending below them. Labouring men wore
ticklenberg linen for shirts, and striped ticken breeches, and in winter
heavy coats of gray duroy. The leathern breeches worn by men and
boys were made without any opening flaps, and, according to Watson,
were so full and free in girth that the wearers ordinarily changed
the rear to the front if any signs of wear appeared. Aprons of leather
were used by all tradesmen and workingmen.
In a paper of 1771, a reward of ten pounds is offered for the arrest
of a man named William Davis who robbed the church at Wilmington
of its hangings and had a green coat made of them. Green was very
fashionable at this period.
AFTER THE REVOLUTION
At his second inauguration, in Philadelphia, 1793, Washington's
costume was " a full suit of black velvet," cut in the fashion of Figure
302, "his hair powdered and in a bag; diamond knee buckles and a
light sword with, gray scabbard. Behind him was Jefferson, gaunt,
ungainly, square-shouldered, with foxy hair, dressed in a blue coat,
Figure 335.
Figure 336.
Figure 334.
Figure 337,
Figure 338.
329
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
33^
small clothes, and vest of crimson ; near by was pale, reflective Madison
and burly, bustling Knox." Unfortunately for us, their dress on that
occasion is not de-
scribed. Adams was
clad in a full suit of
fine gray cloth.
Powder, worn for
a hundred years, went
out of fashion in 1794,
but the hair was still
worn in a queue tied
with a black ribbon.
The following list
of a gentleman's outfit
gives an insight into a
fashionable wardrobe
at this time :
"A light coloured
broadcloth coat, with
pearl buttons ; breeches
of the same cloth;
ditto, black satin ; vest,
swansdown buff
striped ; ditto, mole-
skin chequer figure ;
ditto, satin figured;
ditto, Marseilles white;
ditto, muslinet figured ;
Undervest, faced with a Workingmanm the Last Half of the Eighteenth Century
' (from a Contemporary Print).
red cassimere; two
ditto, flannel; one pair of flannel drawers; one ditto; cotton
ditto; one pair black patent silk hose; one ditto; white ditto; one
'3.il.Stci±r
Figure 339.
332 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
ditto; striped ditto; ten or a dozen white silk hose; three pair of
cotton hose ; four pair of gauze ditto ; twelve neckerchiefs ; six pocket
handkerchiefs, one of them a bandanna; a chintz dressing gown;
a pair of silk gloves; old kid ditto."
Coats for men became shorter in the waist and all the garments
were worn fitting more closely to the figure. The tails of the coats
were cut away in front and were quite long in the back. Although
a few people might have been seen wearing cocked hats after 1800,
a soft, low-crowned straight-brimmed hat came into fashion in 1794.
At that time waistcoats were cut low over ruffled shirt fronts. Soft
stocks were worn around the neck, finished with a bow and ends
under the chin.
Inventory of the wearing apparel of a gentleman in Connecticut
at the end of the eighteenth century :
I Great Coat 3 pr. Old Breeches
I do do 16 Cotton & Linen Shirts
I Black Coat 4 pr. Worcested Hose
I Common do 4 Linen & Cotton do
5 Old Coats 2 pr. plaited do
4 pr. black Breeches 2 pr. black silk do
5 pr. velveteen do i Morning Gown
3 worcested waistcoats 3 pr. Cotton breeches
1 velvet do, i bufif 5 pocket Handkerchiefs
I Eider down do i pr. Gingham Trowsers
I plaid Gown 7 waistcoats
1 Coatee 3 Neck handkfs.
2 Hats I White waistcoat
7 pr. Woolen Hose 3 Under Waistcoats
I pr. Boots 2 pr. leather mittens
4 pr. Shoes i pr. woolen do
I pr. overalls i pr. hnen and leather Gloves
A great-coat of blue camlet with several short capes, long of waist
and large of button, was the popular garment in severe weather.
Trousers of leather and leggings of deer-skin supplemented the coat
as a protection against storms. An extra pair of stocking legs well
tucked into the low shoes was a homely substitute for leggings, and
233
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 335
overshoes of very heavy leather were sometimes worn over the
ordinary shoes.
LEGAL JDRESS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
Martin mentions a portrait of James Logan as Chief Justice of
the Province of Pennsylvania which represents him in gown, bands,
and wig. The original colour of the gown is hard to determine in
the portrait. In shape it represents an academic gown, and may
have been worn in more than one capacity, as that distinguished
colonist played many parts in his day. The dignified garment in
question would equally become the governor and the chief justice.
(Figure 323.)
In his diary, under date of 1787, Manasseh Cutler, describing a
visit to the State House, says: "In this Hall the Courts are held and
as you pass the aisle you have a full view of the Court. The Supreme
Court was now sitting. This bench consists of only three judges.
Their robes are scarlet, the lawyers' black. The Chief Judge McKean
sitting with his hat on, which is the custom, but struck me as being
very odd and seemed to derogate from the dignity of a judge."*
Among other customs brought over from England by the legal pro-
fession is the practice still in use of carrying briefs and papers in bags.
"Lawyers' bags," an English authority asserts, "were, until a compara-
tively recent date, green, but leaders of the chancery and common law
bars carried red bags. Chancery juniors, it is stated, were permitted
to carry blue bags, etiquette forbidding them to carry bags of the
same colour as their leaders." f
In those days (latter half of the eighteenth century) it was the cus-
tom of the Supreme Court to hold sessions in the various counties.
When the Supreme Court came to Harrisburg (1777-78) to hold
court, numbers of the citizens of the place— as many as two hundred
* Life, Journab and Correspondence of Rev. Manassah Cutler, LL.D.
fThe King's Peace, by Inderwick.
33^
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
people at a time — would go out on horseback to meet the judges and
escort them to town. The sheriff with his rod of office and other public
Figure 345.
A Doctor of Civil Law, End of the Eighteenth Century (from an Old Print).
officers and members of the bar would attend on the occasion, and
each morning while the Chief Justice was in town the sheriff and
Figure 346.
Fig UK E 347.
Figure 348.
Figure 349.
337
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
339
constables escorted him from his lodgings to the court-room. When on
the bench, he sat with his hat on and was dressed in a scarlet gown.
A " Grand Federal Procession " took place in Philadelphia on
the Fourth of July, 1 788, which is described at length in the
''Pennsylvania Gazette," July 9, 1788. A great ship on wheels
represented the Constitution, and in it was seated Chief Justice
McKean in his robes of office, and the judges of the Supreme
Figure 350.
A Judge in Scarlet Robe, End of the Eighteenth Century (from an Old Print).
Court in their robes of office. Had there been any decided change
prescribed for the robes of the judges and lawyers in the framing
of the Constitution it would have surely been emphasized in the
procession, but as a matter of fact among the printed articles in
Congress on the subject of the Judiciary, not a word regarding robes
or etiquette is given. The portrait of Chief Justice McKean, which
hangs in the Law School of the University of Pennsylvania, depicts
340 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
him in a scarlet gown. It is a recent portrait, but was painted under
the direction of the family. The red robe of the English Court was
evidently worn throughout the eighteenth century in America.
John Jay, the first Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the
United States, was appointed to that of&ce by Washington in
1789. The full-length portrait of him in his robe is reproduced in
Figure 325. According to a contemporary authority, this robe is the
black silk gown with facings of salmon-coloured satin with a white
edge, given with his degree of Doctor of Laws by Columbia Uni-
versity and worn by the Chief Justice during the term of his high
ofi&ce under the Government.*
UNIFORMS IN AMERICA
1775-1800
The history of the American Navy, according to good authority,
dates from the twenty-second of December, 1775, and the history
of its uniform from the fifth of September, 1776, when the Marine
Committee of the Continental Congress made the following regula-
tions regarding it:
Captains^-A blue coat with red lapels, slashed cuffs, a stand-up
collar, flat yellow buttons, blue breeches and a red waistcoat with
yellow lace.
Lieutenants — A blue coat with red lapels and round cuffs faced,
a stand-up collar, yellow buttons, blue breeches, and a plain red
waistcoat.
Masters — A blue coat with lapels, round cuffs, blue breeches, and
a red waistcoat.
Midshipmen — A blue coat with lapels, round cuffs faced with
red, a stand-up collar, red at the buttons and buttonholes, blue
breeches, and a red waistcoat.
* Life and Works of Gilbert Stuart.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
341
Marines — A green coat faced with white, round cuffs, slashed
sleeves and pockets, with buttons round the cuffs, a silver epaulet
on the right shoulder, skirts turned back, buttons to suit the facings,
white waistcoat, breeches edged with green, black gaiters and garters.
The men were to have green
shirts if they could be procured.
Common sailors and seamen
wore loose breeches and short
square-cut jackets, according to
Watson and other authorities.
(Figure 351.)
The British troops estab-
lished in America had been kept
continually on the alert at dif-
ferent points to protect the in-
habitants from the dreaded on-
slaught of the Indians, but a
time of comparative quiet gave
the commanders an opportunity
to observe a certain hostile atti-
tude the citizens had evinced
toward the soldiery. This new
phase of feeling in the Colonies
was duly mentioned in official
despatches, but was so little
heeded that England felt a slight
shock of alarm at the news of the
bold measures of the colonists in
Boston in 1768, and the spreading discontent which was becoming
manifest in all directions. General Gage was ordered in June to send
a force "sufficient to assist the magistrates and revenue officers in
enforcing the law." Under Colonel Dalrymple the 14th and 29th
15
Figure 351.
Dress of an Ordinary Seaman, 1775.
342 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Foot* and one company of artillery with five guns arrived at Boston and
demanded quarters in the town, which the citizens flatly refused to grant,
and Gage, feeling the throbbing pulse of rebellion, withdrew the com-
mand and found quarters for the troops at the King's expense. Shortly
after this the 64th and 65th regiments were sent as reinforcements,
but they were not able to awe the ''mob of Boston," which devoted
every spare moment to drilling. They found an opportunity to
practise the skill thus acquired under their leader, Samuel Adams,
in the riots of 1770, which resulted in the withdrawal of both British
battalions from the city. The tax on tea and its consequences on
the sixteenth of December, 1773, proved a harbinger of the coming
trouble. Gage returned from a visit to England, where his chief
object had been to explain the tension of affairs in America, with
more troops and the title of Governor of the Province of Massachu-
setts. Ten thousand men were then ordered to America instead of
the twenty thousand asked for by Gage.
Meanwhile the Provincial Congress had met at Cambridge and
passed resolutions for the collection and manufacture of arms,
and General Gage, hearing that a quantity of powder and ammu-
nition had been stored at Concord, sent the flank company of his
garrison to seize it. This was the nineteenth of April, 1775,
forever memorable in American history.
Paul Revere's gallant ride had not been in vain. The British troops
found a body of militia drawn up on the village green at Concord
to protect the stores, and after a fierce skirmish the Redcoats were
obliged to retreat, followed for about fifteen miles by the Provincials,
whose numbers were augmented at every point on the road by "patriots
in homespun." This battle of Lexington brings us to the organization
of the Continental army, which was strongly urged by the Provincial
Congress. The militia troops before Boston had already shown
* For the uniforms of these British regiments, see Her Majesty's Army, by Walter
Richards, with coloured plates.
FiGrKE 352.
Figure 353.
Figure 354.
Figure 355.
343
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 345
good metal in their composition ; many of them had fought in the French
and Indian War. The Continental army began to drill and manoeuvre
with redoubled energy, although in the eyes of the British army "their
equipment was deficient and their discipline very faulty indeed."
Contemporary letters written from Boston before the Revolution
give a vivid picture of the situation.
"The people in England have been taught to believe that five
or six thousand regular troops would be sufficient to humble us into
the lowest submission to any parliamentary act, however tyrannical.
But we are not so ignorant in military affairs and unskilled in the
use of arms as they take us to be. A spirit for martial skill has strangely
catched from one to another throughout at least the New England
colonies. A number of companies in many of our towns are already
able to go through the military exercises in all its forms with more
dexterity and a better grace than some of the regiments which have
been sent to us, and all our men from twenty to sixty years of age
are either formed or forming into companies and regiments with
officers of their own choosing, to be steadily tutored in the military
art. It is not doubted but by next spring one hundred thousand
men will be well qualified to come forth for the defense of our liberties
and rights should there be a call for it. We have besides in the New
England Colonies alone a number of men who, in the last war, were
made regulars by their services over your troops now in Boston. I
cannot help observing to you here that we have in this town a company
of boys from about ten to fourteen years of age who in the opinion
of the best judges can go thro' the whole military exercises with more
dexterity than a great part of the regulars have been able to do since
they have been here."*
An interesting description of the dress and arms of the famous
Minute Men is given in the History of Woodbury. f
* Extract from a letter of Charles Chauncey to Richard Price, Boston, January lo, 1775.
Massachusetts Historical Society Proceedings, Boston, 1903.-
t History of Ancient Woodbury, Connecticut, by William Cothren.
346 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"As the militia rallied on the several calls and detachments, at a
minute's or an hour's warning, in whatever clothes they happened
to have on, with whatever weapons of war came first to hand, or
had descended to them from their fathers, they often presented a
very grotesque appearance. They wore small-clothes, coming down
and fastening just below the knee, and long stockings with cowhide
shoes, ornamented by large buckles, while not a pair of boots graced
the company. The coats and waistcoats were loose and of huge
dimensions, with colours as various as the barks of the oak, sumach,
and other trees of our hills and swamps could make them, and their
shirts were all made of flax, and, like every other part of the dress,
were homespun. On their heads were worn large round-top and
broad-brimmed hats. Their arms were as various as their costumes;
here and there an old soldier carried a heavy queen's arm, with which
he had done service at the conquest of Canada, twenty years pre-
vious, while by his side walked a stripling boy with a Spanish fuzee,
not half its weight or calibre, which his grandfather may have taken
at Havana, while not a few had old French pieces, that dated back
to the reduction of Louisburg. Instead of the cartridge-box, a large
powder-horn was slung under the arm, and occasionally a bayonet
might be seen bristling in the ranks. Some of the swords of the
officers had been made by our province blacksmiths, perhaps from
some farming utensil; they looked serviceable, but heavy and un-
couth. Such was the appearance of the Continentals, to whom a
well-appointed army was soon to lay down their arms."
It is more than likely that the hardest fighting of the war of the
Revolution ^was done by men dressed in hunting shirts of dressed
leather, with leather breeches and buckskin shoes. At Bunker Hill
the British regiments engaged were the flank companies of the 4th,
loth, i8th, 22nd, 23rd, 35th, 59th, 63rd, and 65th, the entire strength
of the 5th, 38th, 42nd, 47th, and-52nd, and two battalions of marines;*
* History of the British Army, by J. W. Fortescue.
Figure 356.
Figure 359.
Figure 360.
347
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
349
these men, in the splendid uniforms of the British regulars, formed
a striking contrast to the oddly dressed Continentals. General
Washington, who had been
chosen unanimously for the
Commander-in-Chief of the Con-
tinental Army, July 2, 1775, took
command of the strangely as-
sorted company before Boston,
and later of the three thousand
men from Pennsylvania, Vir-
ginia, and Maryland.
A few of the provincial regi-
ments were equipped with uni-
forms, notably the New Jersey
Infantry, under Colonel Schuy-
ler, which went by the name of
the Jersey Blues, from their coats
of blue cloth faced with red ; gray
stockings and buckskin breeches
completed the costume. The
Virginia Infantry, of which
Washington was colonel, adopted
the Whig colours, blue and buff;
coats of dark blue faced with buff,
with waistcoats and breeches of
buff. This was Washington's
uniform when he took command
of the army at Cambridge.
(July, I775-)
From the ''History of the
First Troop City Cavalry," which on many occasions had the honour
of escorting the Commander-in-Chief, the following account is taken:
Figure 361.
Uniform of the Light-Horse Troop of Phila-
delphia.
350 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
"Uniform of the Light-Horse of the City of Phila-
delphia. *
"A dark brown short coat, faced and lined with white; white
vest and breeches; high-topped boots; round black hat, bound with
silver cord; a buck's tail; housings brown, edged with white, and
the letters L. H. worked on them." And arms: "A carbine, a pair
of pistols and holsters, with flounces of brown cloth trimmed with
white; a horseman's sword; white belts for the sword and carbine."
In the early part of this year (1775), Captain Markoe presented
to the Troop a handsome silken standard. It is of great historic
interest as being the first flag which bore upon it the thirteen stripes,
symbolizing the thirteen colonies then asserting their rights and
ultimately struggling for their independence. Its first recorded duty
brought the Troop early into the notice of General Washington, who
passed through Philadelphia June 23, 1775, and was escorted by
the Troop as far as New York, on his journey to the camp at Cam-
bridge, Massachusetts.
In order that reliable descriptions of the uniforms worn by the
soldiers from 1775 to 1800 may be had, extracts from contemporary
official papers, reprinted under the supervision of the Quartermaster-
General of the United States (Washington, 1895), are quoted verbatim.
Resolved. That thirteen thousand coats be provided
and one thereof be given to each non-commissioned Officer and
Soldier of the Massachusetts forces.
Resolved. That each coat be faced with the same kind of cloth of
which it is made; that the coats be made in the common, plain way,
without lappels, short and with small folds. (Proceedings of Massa-
chusetts Provincial Congress, July 5, 1775.)
Resolved. That the Committee of Supplies
are to cause all the coats to be buttoned with pewter buttons, and that
the coats for each Regiment, respectively, have buttons of the same
* Afterwards known as First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry.
Figure 362.
FiGUKK 363,
^^^■MBIIIII 1 III I'll JI^^K^ „<!~^ rVJ*^
1%^
:*yi^ \ 'â– â– *
; ^-, ■*'%^.. -^^^^^^^^^ V '''•
â– ^
g^sii*--,.^ ..- •• _^^ -.
Figure 364.
351
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 353
number stamped on the face of them. — (Amer. Archives, Vol. II, 4th
series, p. i486.)
To prevent mistakes the General Officers and their Aids de Camp
will be distinguished in the following manner: The Commander-in-
Chief by a light blue ribband, worn across his breast, between his
coat and waistcoat; the Majors and Brigadiers General by a pink
ribband worn in like manner; the Aids de Camp by a green ribband.
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, July 14, 1775.) — {Amer.
Archives, Vol. II, 4th series, p. 1662.)
every Major of Brigade will be distin-
guished by a green ribband
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, July 20, 1775.) — (Amer.
Archives, Vol. II, 4th series, p. 17 10.)
As the Continental Army have unfortunately no uniforms, and
consequently many inconveniences must arise from not being able
always to distinguish the commissioned Officers from the non-com-
missioned, and, the non-commissioned from the privates, it is desired
that some badges of distinction may be immediately provided; for
instance, that the field Officers may have red or pink colored cock-
ades in their hats; the Captains yellow or buff, and the subalterns
green.
The sergeants may be distinguished by an epaulette or stripe
of red cloth sewed upon their right shoulders; the Corporals by
one of green. (Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, 23 July,
ij'j$.)—(Amer. Archives, Vol. II, 4th series, 1775, p. 1738.)
It being thought proper to distinguish the Majors from the
Brigadiers General by some particular mark, for the future the
Majors General will wear a broad purple ribband. (Gen. Orders,
Headquarters, Cambridge, 24 July, 1775.)— (^wer. Archives, Vol. II,
4th series, 1775, p. 1739.)
The General also recommends it to the Colonels to provide Indian
boots or leggings for their men, instead of stockings,
354 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
especially as the General has hopes of prevailing with the Continental
Congress to give each man a hunting shirt
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, August 7, 1775.)— (^wer.
Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th series, p. 248.)
The enlisted men of the ist Virginia Regiment of Infantry were,
however, in the year 1775, uniformed at their own expense in hunting
shirts, leggings, and white bindings on their hats. — {Amer. Archives,-
Vol. IV, 4th series, p. 92.)
Resolved. That when the Green Mountain Boys are raised, each
of them shall be furnished with a coat, and be
requested to purchase green cloth for that purpose, and red cloth
sufficient to face these coats (New York
Prov. Congress, Aug. 15, 1775.) — (Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th
series, p 530.)
Resolved. That Clothing be provided for the new Army by the
Continent and paid for by stoppages out of the soldiers wages
That as much as possible of the cloth for this purpose be dyed brown
and the distinctions of the Regiments made in the facings. — (Res. Con-
gress, Nov. 4, 1775.) — (Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th series, p. 1907.)
The Colonels upon the new establishment to settle as soon as
possible with the Quartermaster General the uniform of their respec-
tive Regiments that the buttons may be properly numbered and the
work finished without delay. (General Orders, Headquarters, Cam-
bridge, Nov. 13, 1775.) — (Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th series.)
It is recommended to those Corps which are not already supplied
with uniforms, to provide hunting shirts for their men. (General
Orders, Headquarters, New York, May 6, 1776.) — {Amer. Archives,
Vol. VI, 4th series, p. 426.)
The General being sensible of the difficulty and expense of pro-
viding Clothes, of almost any kind, for the Troops, feels an unwilling-
ness to recommend, much more to order, any kind of Uniform; but
355
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 357
as it is absolutely necessary that men should have Clothes, and appear
decent and tight, he earnestly encourages the use of Hunting Shirts,
with long breeches made of the same cloth, gaiter fashion about the
legs, to all those yet unprovided. (General Orders, Headquarters,
New York, July 24, 1776.)— (^wer. Archives, Vol. I, 5th series, p. 677.)
Resolved that, for the further encouragement of the non-commis-
sioned Officers and soldiers who shall engage in service during the
war. A suit of Clothes be annually given to each of said officers and
soldiers; to consist, for the present year, of two linen hunting shirts, two
pairs of overalls, a leathern or woolen waistcoat with sleeves, one pair
of breeches, a hat or leather cap, two shirts, two pair of hose and two
pair of shoes. (Continental Congress, Oct. 8, 1776.) — {Amer. Archives,
Vol. II, 5th series, p. 1392.)
the Congress of the United States have
further resolved to give annually to each man one
complete suit of clothing, which, for the present year, is to consist of
two linen hunting shirts, two pair of stockings, two pair of shoes, two
pair of overalls, a leathern or woolen jacket with sleeves, one pair of
breeches, and one Leathern cap or hat. (General Orders, Headquarters,
October 24, 1776.) — {Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 5th series, p. 331.)
In 1 777, and subsequently, the uniform for the four regular regiments
constituting the Corps of Artillery was a blue or black coat reaching to
the knee, and full trimmed, lappels fastened back, with ten open-worked
button-holes in yellow silk on the breast of each lappel, and ten large
regimental yellow buttons, at equal distances, on each side; three
large yellow regimental buttons on each cuff, and a like number
on each pocket-flap. The skirts to hook back, showing the red
lining, bottom of coat cut square, red lappels, cuff linings, and
standing capes; single-breasted white waistcoat, with twelve small
yellow regimental buttons, white breeches, black half gaiters, white
stock, ruffied shirt, and at the wrists, and black cocked hat bound
with yellow; red plume and black cockade, gilt-handled small sword
and gilt epaulettes. — {Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 473.)
358 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Congress, by resolution of March 23, 1779, "authorized and di-
rected the Commander-in-Chief, according to circumstances of sup-
pHes of Clothing, to fix and prescribe the uniform as well with regard
to color and facings as the cut or fashion of the Clothes to be worn
by the troops of the respective States and regiments, woolen overalls
for winter and linen for summer to be substituted for the breeches."
In accordance with the above Resolution, the following General
Order, dated Headquarters, Moore's House, 2 Oct., 1779, was pro-
mulgated by General Washington:
"The following are the uniforms that have been determined for
the troops of these States respectively, so soon as the state of the
public supplies will permit of their being furnished accordingly; and,
in the meantime, it is recommended to the Officers to endeavor to
accommodate their uniforms to the standard, that when the men
come to be supplied, there may be a proper uniformity.
New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Con-
necticut.
Blue, faced with white; buttons and linings white.
New York and New Jersey.
Blue, faced with buff; white linings and buttons.
Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland and Virglnia.
Blue, faced with red ; buttons and linings white.
North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia.
Blue, faced with blue; buttonholes edged with narrow white lace
or tape; buttons and linings white.
Artillery and Artillery Artificers.
Blue, faced with scarlet; scarlet linings; yellow buttons, yellow-
bound hats. Coats edged with narrow lace or tape, and buttonholes
bound with same.
Light Dragoons.
The whole blue, faced with white; white buttons and linings."
359
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 361
Resolved. That the following articles be delivered as a suit of
Clothes for the current and every succeeding year of their service
to the Officers of the line and staff, entitled by any Resolution of
Congress to receive the same, viz: one hat, one watch coat, one body
coat, four vests, one for winter and three for summer, four pairs of
breeches, two for winter and two for summer, four shirts, six pair
of stockings, three pair thereof worsted and three of thread, four
pair of Shoes. — {Journals of Congress, Nov. 25, 1779.)
As it is at all times of great importance both for the sake of appear-
ance and for the regularities of service that the different military
ranks should be distinguished from each other, and more especially
at present: —
The Commander-in-Chief has thought proper to establish the
following distinctions and strongly recommends it to all the Officers
to endeavor to conform to them as speedily as possible.
The Major Generals to wear a blue coat with buff facings, yellow
buttons, white or buff underclothes, two epaulettes, with two stars
upon each and a black-and-white feather in the hat.
The Brigadier Generals, the same uniform as the Major Generals
with the difference of one star instead of two and a white feather.
The Colonels, Lieutenant Colonels, and Majors, the uniform of
their regiments, and two epaulettes. .
The Captains, the uniforms of their regiments and an epaulette
on the right shoulder.
The subalterns, the uniform of their regiment and an epaulette
on the left shoulder.
The Aides de Camp, the uniforms of their ranks and Corps, or
if they belong to no Corps, of their General Officers.
Those of the Major Generals and Brigadier Generals to have a
green feather in their hat. Those of the Commander-in-Chief a white
and green.
The Inspectors, as well Sub as Brigade, the uniform of their ranks
and Corps, with a blue feather in the hat. ,
The Corps of Engineers and that of Sappers and Miners, a blue
coat with buff facings, red lining, buff undercloaths, and the epaulettes
of their respective ranks.
362 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Such of the Staff as have Military rank, to wear the uniform of
their ranks and of the Corps to which they belong in the line. Such
as have no military rank to wear plain coats, with a cockade and
sword.
All officers, as well warrant as commissioned, to wear a cockade and
side arms either a sword or genteel bayonet. (Headquarters, Short
Hills, Sunday, June i8, 1780.)
As it is much wished to establish uniformity in the corps; the
officers are directed not to make any changes in the dress of them-
selves or their men 'till orders are given for a general rule.
The feathers directed to be worn by Major Generals are to have
the white below, the black above; it will be best to have one feather
the upper part black. It is recommended to the officers to have
black and white cockades, a black ground with a white relief, em-
blematic of the expected union of the two armies. (Headquarters,
Precaness, July 19, 1780.)
As nothing adds more to the beauty and appearance of a Corps,
than exact uniformity of dress, the General recommends it thus early
to the "Field Officers" newly arranged to fix upon a fashion for the
regimental clothing of the officers of their respective corps (if it is
not already done), confining themselves to the ground, facing, linings
and buttons already assigned to the States to which they belong.
The General sees with concern the difficulties which the Officers
labor under in procuring Cloth. It is not therefore his wish that
those who are already furnished should run themselves to the expense
of new uniforms, if their old are not exactly conformable, but that
they should in future comply strictly with the regimental fashion
and, if possible, get their old clothes altered to it. It has a very odd
appearance especially to Foreigners to see the same corps of officers
each differing from the other in fashion of the facings, sleeves and
pockets of their coats.
An attention to these minutiae has been thought proper in all
services; it becomes peculiarly so in ours at this time as we shall
more than probable take the field next campaign in conjunction with
Figure 376.
FiGUEE 377.
P'IGURE 37».
Figure 379.
363
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 365
our Allies, composed of the first troops in Europe, who will receive
impressions and form opinions from the first view
Strict attention is to be paid to the order of the i8th of June last,
distinguishing the rank of officers by their badges. (Headquarters,
Totoway, Nov. 15, 1780.)
ORDERS FOR THE MASSACHUSETTS LINE.
January 5th, 1781.
The Committee of Officers appointed to fix upon the fashion of
the Massachusetts' uniform, have reported thereupon, and it is as
follows : —
The color of the coats, waistcoat, linings and buttons, to be agree-
able to the General Orders of the 2nd of October, 1779.
The length of the coat, to the upper part of the knee-pan, and
to be cut high in the neck. As 3 is to 5, so is the skirt to the waist
of the coat; or divide the whole length of the coat into 8 equal parts,
take 5 for the waist and 3 for the skirts.
The lappel, at the top of the breast, to be 3 inches wide, and the
bottom 2xV inches; the lappel to be as low as the waist, and its wing
to button within an inch of the shoulder seam with a small button
on the cape. The epaulette to be worn directly on the top of the
shoulder joint on the same button with the wing of the lappel. A
round and close cuff, three inches wide, with four close worked but-
tonholes. The cape to be made with a peak behind, and its width
in proportion to the lappels. The pocket flaps to be scollopped, four
buttonholes, the two inner close worked, the two outer open worked,
and to be set on in a curved line from the bottom of the lappel to
the button on the hip. The coat to be cut full behind, with a fold
on each back skirt, and two close worked buttonholes on each.
Ten open worked buttonholes on the breast of each lappel, with
ten large buttons, at equal distance ; four large buttons on each cuff,
four on each pocket flap, and four on each fold. Those on the cuffs
and pocket flaps to be placed agreeable to the buttonholes; and those
on the folds, one on the hip, one at the bottom, and two in the centre,
at an equal distance with those on the lappel. The coat is to button
or hook as low at the fourth buttonhole on the breast, and is to be
366 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
flaunt at the bottom with a genteel and military air. Four hooks
and eyes on the breast as low as the coat is allowed to button. The
skirts to hook up with a blue heart at each corner, with such device
as the Field Officers of each Regiment shall direct. The bottoms
of the coat to be cut square. The waistcoat to be single-breasted,
with twelve buttons and holes on the breast, with pocket flaps, four
close worked buttonholes and four buttons, which shall appear below
the flaps. The breeches are to be made with a half fall ; four buttons
on each knee. The small buttons on the waistcoat to be of the same
kind with the large ones on the coat. The number of the Regiment
is to be in the centre of the button, with such device at the Field
Officers shall direct. The epaulettes to be worn agreeable to his
Excellency the Commander-in-Chief's orders of June i8, 1780.
A fashionable military cock'd hat, with a silver button loop, and
a small button with the number of the Regiment. To wear a black
stock when on duty and on the parade.
No edging, vellum lace, or indeed any other ornaments which are
not mentioned, to be added to the uniform. No officer is to be per-
mitted, at any time, to wear any other uniform than that of his Regi-
ment. — {Review Orders, by H. Whiting, p. 164.)
The clothier is, if practicable, to obtain worsted shoulder knots,
for the non-commissioned officers; the sergeants are to be distin-
guished by one on each shoulder; and the corporals by one on the
right shoulder; and in the meantime it is proposed that a piece of
white cloth should be substituted by way of distinction. (General
Orders, Headquarters, Newburgh, May 14, 1782.)
367
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 369
BRIGADE ORDERS, WEST POINT.
June 17, 1782.
The Honorable Brigadier-General Paterson, having expressed
his wish that some honorary mark of distinction should be worn
by each Non-commissioned Officer or Private in his Brigade,
who has served in the Army of the United States a certain
length of time; and has also made a present of materials for
that purpose: —
The Commandant thinks proper to direct, that each Non-Com-
missioned Officer and Private, who has served four years in any
Continental Regiment, shall be entitled to wear one stripe of white
tape, on the left sleeve of his regimental coat, which shall extend
from seam to seam, on the upper part of the sleeve, three inches
from and parallel with the shoulder seam, so that the tape may form
a herring-bone figure.
That none presume to wear the badge of distinction, but by the
immediate permission of the Colonel or Commandant of the Regiment,
who, on its being made to appear to his full satisfaction, that the
man who applies for the badge has served four years, as above, will
please to order this honor publicly conferred on him. The Com-
mandant further directs, that when any Non- Commissioned Officer
or Soldier shall complete eight years service, he shall have the addition
of another stripe set on one inch below the first.
As emulation is essential to promote discipline, the Commandant
wishes, by all laudable measure, to kindle the flame in every breast;
and considers that punishment, as well as reward, is absolutely neces-
sary in all government; to promote which design, he directs that
these marks of distinction, in the first instance, be for all who have
actually served as above, without discrimination of character; but,
that after the publication of this order, none who shall commit a crime
for which they are punishable by a Court Martial, shall be entitled
to this honorary badge for four years from the time they were found
punishable; and should any one who is honored with the badge be
so lost to a sense of honor, which every soldier ought to possess, as
to fall under the sentence of a Court Martial, he is to be divested
of this badge of honor at the head of the Regiment, and excluded
370 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
from wearing it until he shall retrieve his character, by four years'
unblemished service. {Review Orders, by Henry Whiting, p. 220.)
Honorary Badges of distinction are to be conferred on the veteran
non-commissioned officers and soldiers of the Army, who have served
more than three years with bravery, fidelity and good conduct, for
this purpose a narrow piece of white cloth, of an angular form is to
be fixed to the left arm on the uniform coats. Non-commissioned
officers and soldiers who have served with equal reputation more
than six years, are to be distinguished by two pieces of cloth, set on
parallel to each other in a similar form whenever
any singularly meritorious action is performed, the author of it shall
be permitted to wear on his facings, over the left breast, the figure
of a heart in purple cloth or silk, edged with narrow lace or binding.
(Headquarters, Newburgh, Aug. 7, 1782.)
In order to prevent misapplication of the honorary badges of dis-
tinction to be conferred on the non-commissioned officers and soldiers
in consequence of long and faithful service, through any mistake or
misapprehension of the orders of the 7th inst., the General thinks
proper to inform the Army that they are only attainable by an unin-
terrupted series of faithful and honorable services.
The badges which non-commissioned officers and soldiers are
permitted to wear on the left arm as a mark of long and faithful
service, are to be of the same color with the facings of the corps they
belong to and not white in every instance as directed in the orders
of the 7th instant. (General Orders, Headquarters, Newburgh,
Aug. II, 1782.)
The Honorable Secretary of War having been pleased to direct
that the uniforms of the American Cavalry and Infantry shall in future
be blue ground with red facings and white linings and buttons: The
General gives this early notice that provision may be made accordingly
before the Army shall receive their clothing for the present year.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 371
The Corps of the Artillery is to retain its present uniform, and the
Sappers and Miners will have the same. (Headquarters, Newburgh,
Dec. 6, 1782.)
The non arrival of the clothing imported from Europe renders
the greatest economy in that article doubly necessary. The Com-
mander-in-Chief therefore recommends that the business of turning
and repairing the coats of last year should now be considered as a
primary object, in doing which a certain model as to the fashion
and length, (for the coats ought to be made something shorter than
at present) will be established by the commanding officer of the
corps, from which there must be no deviation
It is expected scarlet cloth for cuffs, capes and perhaps half facings
will be furnished. (Headquarters, Newburgh, Feb. 24, 1783.)
Notwithstanding the proposed alteration in the uniforms of the
Infantry and Cavalry it appears necessary from inevitable circum-
stances that all the Light Infantry companies should be cloathed in
blue coats faced with white until further orders. (General Orders,
Headquarters, Newburgh, March 3, 1783.)
The regiments which have not turned and repaired their coats
are to draw lots for the scarlet cloth which arrived yesterday. (General
Orders, Newburgh, April 14, 1783.)
When the Revolutionary War ended, one regular regiment of
Infantry and two companies of the corps of artillery
were retained in service. (General Orders, Headquarters, West
Point, 23 Dec, 1783.) The Uniform of the infantry regiment was
dark blue, with white facings, white linings, black cocked hats, white
hat bindings, white worsted shoulder knots, white buttons, silver
epaulettes for Officers, white cross belts, black stocks, white under
dress, black gaiters, and black plume. The artillery uniform re-
mained as heretofore; dark blue faced with scarlet, scarlet linings,
yellow buttons, yellow binding for black felt cocked hat, and yellow
edging of buttonholes; white under dress, gold epaulettes for Officers;
and yellow worsted shoulder knots for non-commissioned officers and
16
372 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
buff belts, white cravats and black plume, with red top. — (Mag. Amer.
Hist., Vol. I, p. 482.)
The coats of the musicians remained red with blue facings, blue
waistcoats and breeches, silk epaulettes for Chief Musician. (General
Orders, War Dept., N. Y., 30 Jan., 1787.) — {Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol.
I, p. 482.)
The Infantry Officers were now required to wear half boots, white
pantaloons and white vests, double breasted. (General Orders,
Headquarters, Loftus Heights, 19 January, 1791.)
During the period of the confederation the troops retained substan-
tially the revolutionary uniforms. The cavalry had brass helmets
with white horsehair. (Secty. War to Q. M. Genl. Saml. Hodgden,
4 Aug., 1792.) — {Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 483.)
Their swords were "long horseman's sword, steel mounted."
Officers of Artillery and Infantry had swords of sabre form respec-
tively yellow mounted and steel mounted, two feet six inches in length
for each company officer, and three feet in length for each field
officer. — {Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 483.)
The officers being arranged to the four sub-legions it now becomes
expedient to give those Legions distinctive marks, which are to be
as follows, viz:
The first Sub-legion, white binding upon their caps with white
plumes and black hair.
The second Sub-legion, red binding to their caps, red plumes
with white hair.
The third Sub-legion, yellow binding to their caps, yellow plumes
and black hair.
The fourth Sub-legion, green binding to their caps, green plumes
and white hair. (General Orders, Headquarters, Pittsburgh, 11 Sept.,
1792.)
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 373
The Officers will wear plain cocked hats with no other distinctive
marks, but the plumes of their respective Sub-legions, except in actual
service or action, when they will wear the same caps with the non-
commissioned officers and privates of their respective Sub-legions.
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Pittsburgh, Sept. 12, 1792.)
The following Select Corps shall be immediately drafted from the
Legion the respective pay-masters will deliver to the Cap-
tains or officers commanding companies Two pairs linen
overalls, two pairs of shoes and two shirts for each non-commissioned
officer and private (Gen. Orders, Headquarters,
Greenville, June, 30, 1794.)
Paymasters will also furnish the commanding offi-
cers of each troop of Dragoons with two shirts and two pairs of linen
overalls per man
The garrison duty men will parade for Review tomorrow
fresh shaved and well powdered All such as have five months
and upwards to serve will be furnished with two pair of linen over-
alls, two shirts and two pairs of shoes per man. Those whose term
of service will expire on or before the ist of December next with
one pair of shoes, one pair of overalls, and one shirt per man
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Greenville, July i, 1794-)
The Deputy Quartermaster will issue all the bearskins to the
Sub-legionary Quartermasters for the use of the Battalion Com-
panies. (Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Greenville, July 9, 1794-)
In 1794 the artillery received helmets, with red plumes. (Secty.
War to Quartermaster benl. Saml. Hodgden, 14 July, 1794.)— (if fl^.
Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 484.)
The commanding officers of the respective Sub-legions, will
make out a particular return to the Adjutant General of the number
374 HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
of Non-commissioned officers and soldiers entitled to sum-
mer clothing, and who have not already been furnished that
the whole of the troops may appear in the most soldierly condition.
On the 4th July the Commanding Officers of Corps will cause
the uniforms to be repaired, and the Hats and Caps properly deco-
rated. The Acting Quartermaster will procure bearskins for cover-
ing the hats and caps. (General Orders, Headquarters, Greenville,
June 26, 1795.)
The following uniform for the officers of Infantry is to be ob-
served and adopted until otherwise regulated. Coats reaching to
the knee and full trimmed, scarlet lappels, cuffs and standing capes,
white buttons and trimmings, lapels and cape two inches, and cuffs
three inches wide. Vests and breeches white, the former with short
flaps and three buttons. Black stocks or cravats. Cocked Hats,
and full boots with black tops. (General Orders, Headquarters,
Greenville, i6th Feb., 1796.)
In 1799 the white plume was again prescribed for the Infan-
try (Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Loftus Heights, 2 Jan.,
1799.) — {Mag. Amer. Hist., p. 485.)
The uniform of the Commander-in-Chief to be a blue coat, with
yellow buttons, and gold epaulettes, each having three silver stars,
with lining, cape and cuffs of buff — in winter buff vest and breeches;
in summer, a white vest and breeches, of nankeen.
The coat to be without lappels, and embroidered on the cape
and cuffs and pockets; a white plume in the hat, to be a further dis-
tinction. The Adjutant General, the aids and secretaries of the
Commander-in-Chief, to be likewise distinguished by a white plume.
The uniform of the other General Officers to be a blue coat,
with yellow buttons, gold epaulettes, linings and facings of buff
— the underclothes the same with those of the Commander in Chief.
The Major generals to be distinguished by two silver stars in
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 375
each epaulet, and except the Inspector General, by a black and white
plume, the black below.
The Brigadier to be distinguished by one silver star on each
epaulet, and by a red and white plume, the red below.
The Aids, of all general officers, who are taken from regiments,
and the officers of inspection, to wear the uniform of the regiments
from which they are taken.
The aids to be severally distinguished by the like plumes, which
are worn by the general officers, to whom they are respectively at-
tached.
The uniforms of the aids of the commander in chief when not
taken from regiments, to be a blue coat with yellow button, and gold
epaulet, buff lining and facings the same under-clothes with
the commander-in-chief.
The Inspector General, his aids, and the officers of inspection
generally, to be distinguished by a blue plume. The Quartermaster
General and other military officers in his department, to be distin-
guished by a green plume.
The uniform of the Infantry and artillery to be a blue coat with
white buttons and red facings, white underclothes and cocked hats
the length of the officers coats to reach the knees, the coats
of the Infantry, to be lined with white, of the artillery with red. The
uniform of the Cavalry, to be a green coat, with white buttons, lin-
ings and facings; white vest and breeches and helmet caps.
Each Colonel to be distinguished by two epaulettes; each Major,
by one epaulet on the right shoulder, and a strap on the left. All
the Field Officers, (except as above) and the Regimental Staff, to wear
red plumes the Officers of companies are to wear red plumes.
Captains to be distinguished by an epaulet on the right shoulder;
Lieutenants by one on the left shoulder; cadets by a strap on the
right shoulder. The epaulets and straps of the regimental officers
to be of silver.
Sergeant Majors and Quartermaster Sergeants, to be distinguished
by two red worsted epaulets; Sergeants by a like epaulet on the
right shoulder; Corporals by a like epaulet on the left shoulder;
the flank companies to be distinguished by red wings on the shoulders.
376
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
The coats of the Musicians to be of the colors of the facings of
the corps to which they severally belong. The Chief Musician to
wear two white worsted epau-
lets. All the Civil staff of the
Army, to wear plain blue coats,
with yellow buttons, and white
underclothes. No gold or sil-
ver lace, except in the epaulets
and straps to be worn.
The commissioned officers,
and cadets to wear swords.
All persons belonging to
the Army to wear a black
cockade with a small white
Eagle in the centre. The
cockade of non-commissioned
officers, musicians, and priv-
ates to be of leather, with
Eagles of tin. The regiments
to be distinguished from each
other, numerically. The num-
ber of each regiment to be ex-
pressed in the buttons. (War
Office, Philadelphia, 9 Janu-
ary, 1 799-)
From "The Uniform of the
Army of the United States"
(Washington, 1895) is taken
the following description of
the uniform of an officer from
1776 to 1799: "A blue coat,
with red facings and white
bindings and white buttons and button-holes, white waistcoat and
breeches, white gloves, white epaulettes. Cocked hat bound with
Figure 385.
Uniform of an American OfBcer, 1796.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA 377
white, black pompon. Powdered hair in queue tied with narrow
black silk ribbon. High black silk stock, ruffle of white shirt show-
ing at neck and wrists." (Figure 385.)
The short-waisted coats and high collars which marked the end
of the eighteenth century were specially noticeable in the uniforms,
both military and naval, and form a very striking contrast to the long-
waisted garments which characterized the close of the seventeenth
century.
For uniforms of the French officers in America during the Revolutionary period see
Our French Allies, by Edwin M. Stone. For uniforms of the French troops at this period, see
Racinet, Costumes Historiques, vol. v.
The uniforms of a Hessian dragoon and of the Brunswick Troopers in America during
the Revolutionary period are given in American History from German Archives, by Mr. J. G.
Rosengarten.
GLOSSARY
Glossary
Adonis wigs.— Made of fine white
hair, were very fashionable and very
expensive in the early part of the
eighteenth century.
Aggrapes. — From the French agrape,
" a clasp or buckle " ; also " hooks and
eyes."
Aiglet or Aiguillette. — A metal tag or
point to a lace.
Aigret or Egret.— A tuft of feathers
worn on the head. Fly caps with
egrets were advertised in Boston,
1755-
Ala mode. — A plain soft glossy silk
often mentioned in advertisements in
Colonial newspapers under various
speUings— ' ' elamond , " " ahmod , ' '
"olamod," " alemod," "arlimod,"
"allamode," and " ellimod," are
some of the variations. It was used
throughout the eighteenth century.
AUapine. — A strong woolen stufif spelled
often "ellapine," "allpine," and
" alpine," and very popular for
men's wear during the first half of
the eighteenth century.
Amazeen. — (under various spellings) —
A strong corded silk in use from the
time of Elizabeth to George III.
Often advertised in Colonial papers.
Aprons. — First worn for use by the
careful housewife as well as servants
and workingmen, the apron became
by some unaccountable freak of
fashion late in the sixteenth century
an article of full dress. In 1659 we
read that green aprons went out of
fashion. Aprons were worn in 1744
so long that they nearly touched the
ground.
Artois. — A long cloak made with sev-
eral capes and used by men and
women in 1790.
Atlas. — A soft silk with satin surface,
made in the East.
Baise, Baize, or Bayes. — A coarse
woolen cloth made at Colchester in
the days of Queen Elizabeth. Ad-
vertised in Colonial papers in all
colours, and used for the clothing of
servants and negro slaves.
Balandrans or Balandranas.
with armholes.
-Cloaks
Band. — A collar of lace or linen stiffened
with starch or underpropped with
wire. When allowed to fall upon
the shoulders, it was termed a falling
band.
Band-box. — Originally made to hold
bands — whence the name.
Bandekyn. — A fabric of silk and gold
thread.
Bandileers. — Cases of wood or tin, each
containing a charge of powder,
strung round the neck of a soldier.
Band-strings. — Were usually of ribbon
or of cord finished with tassels; the
latter were often decorated with
pearls and other jewels.
381
382
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Banyan. â €” Originally an Anglo-Indian
name for a loose coat. A morning
gown or wrapper worn by both sexes,
usually of bright-coloured cloth or
damask. Weread that these garments
were much worn in Virginia, and were
sometimes lined with a rich material,
and thus could be worn either side
out.
Barlicoms. — A dress fabric used in
the Colonies. " Check'd barhcorns "
were advertised in 1755.
Barragon or Barracan. — A corded
stuff suitable for summer wear.
Made originally in the Levant, of
camel's-hair.
Barratine. — A stuff, probably of silk,
used for petticoats, stomachers, and
"forehead clothes" as early as 1697.
Barrow-coat. — A form of swaddling
cloth wrapped about an infant's
body and turned up and fastened
at the bottom to keep the feet warm.
Barry or Barrie. — An under-skirt or
petticoat.
Barvell. — A coarse leathern apron used
by workingmen.
Batts. — Heavy low shoes laced in front.
Sent to the New England Colonists
in 1636 and after.
Beard-boxes. — Were made of paste-
board and worn at night over a
beard to keep it in shape.
Bearer. — A roll of padding placed like
a bustle at either hip to raise the
skirt.
Bearing cloth. — Old name for a Chris-
tening blanket.
Bell-hoops. — Stiffened petticoats in the
shape of a bell were fashionable in
1731-
Biggin. — Probably a corruption of be-
guine, "a nun," and sometimes
spelled "begin." It was a close cap
worn always by young children and
sometimes by grown people before
1700.
Binder. — A band of flannel worn by
babies under the shirt, sufficiently
tight to give some support to the
back.
Birdet. — A silk stuff made in China
or India. "Strip'd and plain bir-
det" was advertised in New Eng-
land in 1737.
Bishop. — A sort of bustle stuffed with
horsehair.
Blodms.— (Old English)— Sky-blue.
Bob-wig. — A short close wig worn by
men and boys of all classes on or-
dinary occasions from about 1725
to 1780.
Bodice or a paire of Boddies. — A sort
of stays, an article of apparel worn
often by dandies and in general use
by women in the seventeenth cen-
tury.
Bodkin. — A large pin for the hair,
usually of gold or silver.
Bombards. — Padded breeches.
Bombazin, Bomberzeen, or Bombax.
— A mixture of silk and cotton, fre-
quently advertised in old papers.
Bone-lace. — Usually of linen thread
made over bobbins of bone, whence
the name.
Bonnet. — We read of silk bonnets as
early as 1725 in New England, and
in 1760 of satin bonnets, quilted
bonnets, and Kitty Fisher bonnets,
also of Quebeck and Garrick bon-
nets, but they do not appear in the
portraits of the day, and were prob-
ably not as fashionable as hoods and
hats until late in the eighteenth
century.
Bonnet-paper. — A stiff pasteboard used
for the frames of bonnets and hats.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
383
Bosom-bottle. — A small flat glass bot-
tle, sometimes covered with silk to
match the gown, concealed in the
stomacher of the dress to hold water
for flowers, so generally worn by
ladies in the last half of the eight-
eenth century.
Brawls or Brouls. — A blue and white
striped cotton cloth made in India,
advertised in newspapers 1785 to
1795-
Breast Knot or Bosom Knot. — A
dainty touch of coloured ribbon
worn from 1730 and for the remain-
der of the century.
Breeches. — Were worn by the early
Colonists, of dressed leather, but
afterward they were made of every
material. At first the shape was
loose, fastened in at the knee and
waist, but before the end of the
eighteenth century they were worn
skin-tight.
Breeches-hooks. — A device upon
which the breeches were hung to
keep them in shape, mentioned in
the middle of the eighteenth cen-
tury.
Brigandine. — A plate coat.
Broadcloth. — A fine woolen cloth with
a smooth surface, mostly used for
men's garments, and always regarded
with respect by the lower classes.
Ye wha are fain to hae your name
Wrote in the coney Book of Fame
Let merit nae pretension claim
To laurelled wreath!
But hop ye weel, baith back and wame
In gude Braid claith!
Braid claith lends fock an unco heese!
Makes many kail-worms butterflies!
Gives mony a Doctor his degrees
For little skaith.
In short you may be what you please,
Wi gude Braid Claith!
— Robert Ferguson.
Buff-coat. — A leather outer garment
made exceedingly strong, sometimes
J of an inch in thickness. Much
used in the Civil Wars in England
and by the Colonists of that period.
Buffin. — A coarse cloth first made in
Elizabeth's reign.
Buffonts. — A piece ot gauze or lace
worn over or round the neck, and
puffed out over the breast like a
"pouter pidgeon." In New Eng-
land papers of 1771 "Gauze Buf-
fons" were advertised.
Bugles. — Glass beads used in trim-
mings very early in the Colonies.
Burgoigne. — The front part of a head-
dress next the hair.
Caddis or Cades. — A woolen tape, often
woven into garters, and in common
use in the seventeenth century.
Calash. — From the French caliche, a
hood made to pull over the head,
introduced into England in 1765 by
the Duchess of Bedford and very
popular in the Colonies. Possibly
a revival of the old fashion seen
in the recumbent effigies of the six-
teenth and seventeenth centuries.
Calico. — Originally Calicut, from the
town in India whence it was im-
ported; later the name was applied
to a cotton fabric in general wear
at the time of the Revolution. To-
wards the end of the century calico
was worn by people of all conditions.
The French calicoes imported were
very fine and delicate in colouring,
and were often used for trimming
plain materials.
Calks. — Clogs with spiked soles to keep
one from slipping on the ice.
Callimanco. — According to Fairholt, a
glazed linen fabric showing a pattern
on one side only, but described by
some writers as a fashionable woolen
material with a fine gloss. It was
undoubtedly popular in the Col-
onies. "Callimanco gounds" are
mentioned in America in 1666.
384
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Callot. — A plain cap or coif.
Camlet or chamlet. — A fabric made of
wool or silk, sometimes of both,
much used for cloaks and petticoats
in all the Colonies. The name is
derived from the place of its manu-
facture on the banks of the River
Camlet in England.
Campaign-wigs. — Were very fashion-
able at the end of the seventeenth
and beginning of the eighteenth cen-
turies. They were full and curled
towards the front.
Cannons. — Garters or breeches- fas-
teners.
Canvas. — A stiff woven cloth of flax
or hemp.
■Cap. — The general name for a popular
head covering of both sexes.
"Any cap whate'er it be
Is still the sign of some degree."
Capuchin or Capucine. — A cloak with
hood like a Capuchin monk's, fash-
ionable in the early part of the eight-
eenth century.
Carcanet. — A necklace set with stones
or strung with pearls.
Cardinal. — Cloak with a hood like the
mozetta worn by cardinals which
came into use early in the eighteenth
century.
Casket-girls. — Name given to the girls
sent out by the French Government
to Louisiana, each provided with a
small trunkful of clothing.
Cassock. — A loose coat, like a jerkin,
worn by men.
Catgut. — A cloth woven in cords and
used for lining and stififening gar-
ments.
Cathedral Beard. — According to Ran-
dle Holmes, this style of beard was
worn by dignitaries of the Church.
It was cut square and broad at the
ends.
Caul. — A net to confine the hair. The
back part of a wig or a woman's cap
is sometimes called a caul.
Caushets. — Corsets.
Cherridary. — An Indian cotton stuff
like gingham. (1712 and after.)
Chicken-skin. — Chicken skin gloves
were worn in bed to keep the hands
white as late as the reign of George
III.
Chin-band or chin-cloth. — A muffler
of lace worn by ladies of the time
of Charles I.
Chints or chintz. — (From the Hindoo
"chint," i. e., spotted cloth) — cotton
printed in several colours.
Clocks. — The plaits of a ruff, also
ornaments on stockings.
Clogs. — Overshoes of various materials
worn in the Colonies throughout the
eighteenth century.
Cloth of Bodkin. — A rich cloth inter-
woven of silk and gold. The name
is a corruption of Baldach, the an-
cient name of Bagdad, whence it
was brought.
Clout. — A coarse kerchief worn on the
head.
Cockers, Cocurs, Cocrez. — Laced high
shoes or half-boots ; also thick stock-
ings without feet.
Coif or Quoif . — A close-fitting cap.
Colbertine, Colberteen, or Colbat-
teen. — A lace resembling network,
named for Monsieur Colbert, super-
intendent of the French King's
manufactories. Randle Holmes de-
scribes it as "an open lace with a
square grounding." It ultimately
became cheap and unfashionable.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
385
Swift, in "Cadens and Vanessa,"
says:
"The difference between
Rich Flanders lace and Colbertine."
Collaret. — A puff made of soft ribbon
worn around the throat ending in a
bow beneath the chin.
Commode. — A lady's head-dress made
on a frame of wire two or three tiers
high fitted to the head and covered
with tiflfany or other thin silk. It
came into fashion in England during
the reign of William and Mary.
Copatain. — A sugar-loaf hat, "a capped
crown hat."
Cordevan. — A leather of goatskin, ori-
ginally from Cordova, Spain; some-
times spelt " cordewayne," whence
"cordwainer" or "cordiner," a
shoemaker. ,
Comet. — A cap, apparently a Dutch
fashion.
Corselet. — A light body armour.
Cote. — In old English was a woman's
gown.
Cravat. — A neck-cloth and often a very
costly article of dress. Governor
Berkeley of Virginia ordered one
from England in 1660 which was
to cost five pounds.
Cremesyn. — Crimson velvet.
Criardes. — Name given to paniers of
stiffened linen, which creaked with
every movement.
Crocus. — A coarse stuff worn by slaves
and working people.
Crosscloth. — A part of a woman's head-
dress worn across the forehead.
Worn in Maryland in 1642 and
Massachusetts in 1647.
Cue de Paris. — According to Watson,
a sort of bustle padded with horse-
hair.
Cuirass. — Armour for the breast and
back (name derived from cuir)
made of leather or of metal fastened
with leather thongs.
Curch or Curchef.— A plain close-fit-
ting cap worn by women in the
Colonies.
Curli-murli. — A fantastic curl or twist.
Cypress, Cyprus, Sipers, Sypress, or
Syphus. — The material, found un-
der all these spellings, is described
in 1678 as a fine curled stuff, part
silk, part hair, and of a cobweb thin-
ness. It was used like crape for
mourning.
Dag- wain. — A rough material used for
coverlets for beds, tables, or floors.
Damask or Damascus. — A fabric
woven in elaborate patterns of silk,
wool, or linen. Wool damask was
used for curtains and bed hangings
in Colonial days.
"Damask white and azure blewe
Well diapered with lilies new."
— " The Squire of Low Degree."
Dauphiness. — A certain style of man-
tle advertised in Boston in 1755.
Deriband or Deribund. — A thin ma-
terial made in India.
Desoy or Sergedesoy. — A coarse silken
material used in the eighteenth cen-
tury for men's clothing.
Dimity, Dimothy, or Demyt. — This is
a fine ribbed cotton fabric made first
in Damietta, used throughout the
Colonial period and until the present
day.
Domex. — A heavy coarse linen, like
canvas.
Doublet. — A garment usually made of
two thicknesses of stuff, whence its
name.
Dowlas. — A heavy linen originally from
Brittany.
386
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Drawers. — Summer breeches.
Drugget. — A fabric of wool used for
heavy coats, etc.
Ducape. — A heavy corded silk of plain
colour mentioned in inventories from
1675. It was durable and very
popular.
Duck. — A strong linen fabric without a
twill.
vDuffels or Duffals. — A woolen stuff
originally made in Flanders, used
in the Colonies in 1672 and after.
Durant. — A woolen fabric, sometimes
called "everlasting."
Dussens. — A sort of kersey. The Mas-
sachusetts Bay Colonists were sup-
plied with " 100 sutes of Norden
dussens."
Embroidery. — Variegated needlework
used for decoration of dress. From
the French hroder.
"Embroidered was he, as it were a mede
All of fresh flowers, white and red."
— "Canterbury Tales."
Engageants.— Deep double rufHes
hanging down to the wrist.
"About her sleeves are engageants."
— "Mundus Muliebris," 1690.
Eschelles or Echelles. — A stomacher
laced or ribboned in the form of a
ladder.
Face-painting.— Portrait painting.
Falbalas or Furbelows. — Rows of plait-
ing or puffs, fashionable in the time
of William and Mary. A puckered
flounce.
Falding. — A kind of coarse cloth — like
frieze.
Fall. — A falling band, a large collar,
worn in the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries.
Fallals.— Full soft ruffles used for
trimming.
Farthingale. — The under supporter of
the wide gown or petticoat worn in
the time of Elizabeth and James I.
Made like a circular cushion stuffed
with hair, and worn just below the
waist-line.
Farthingale Breeches. — Stuffed out
like a farthingale, supposed to be a
protection from poniard thrusts
and for that reason encouraged by
James I.
Favourite. — A lock dangling on the
temples.
Felt. — A fabric of wool and hair. Felt
hats were first made in England in
the days of Henry VIII.
Firmament. — An encircling ornament
for the head set with gems.
Fly-fringe. — A very popular trimming
made of tufts of silk to match or
contrast with the gown. In fashion
all through the Georgian Era.
FoUette. — A very Hght fichu.
Fontange. — A knot of ribbon worn on
the head-dress, so called for Mile.
Fontange, who first wore it. Some-
times confused with the Commode,
on top of which it was usually worn.
Fote or Foot-mantel. — An outer skirt
worn by a woman on horseback to
keep her gown clean.
French Fall. — A sort of shoe.
Frieze. — A thick and warm woolen
cloth in use since the fourteenth
century.
Frilals. — Borders of ornamental rib-
bon.
Frontlet. — A piece of stuff worn under
the hood and projecting beyond it
over the forehead.
Furbelows. — An ornamental trimming
for women's gowns, described as a
puckered flounce.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
387
Fustian. — A species of cloth, originally
made at Fusht on the Nile, used
for jackets and doublets as early as
the fifteenth century. It had a warp
of linen thread and a woof of thick
cotton.
Fygury. — An old name for silk diapered
with figures of flowers and fruit.
Galloon or Galon. — A kind of lace
made of silk woven with cotton, gold,
or silver, or of silk only.
Gamoshes. — High boots worn about
1688.
Garters. — The New England Colonists
were furnished with Norwich garters.
In the time of James I garters were
small sashes of silk tied in a large
bow.
Gauze. — A transparent silk texture in-
vented at Gaza in Palestine, whence
its name.
Gelofer or Gillofer. — The old name for
carnation pinks.
Gloves. — Were worn on all occasions
of ceremony by both sexes in early
Colonial Days. They were often
embroidered in gold or silver. We
read of perfumed gloves in England
in 1631.
"One gives to me perfumed gloves, the
best that he can buy me.
Live where I will, I will have the loves
of all that come nigh me."
— "A Fayre Portion for a Fayre Maide."
Glove Tightens. — To keep the long
gloves in place, were made of plaited
hair as well as of ribbon.
Goffering. — The mode of ironing the
plaits of a ruff over heated poking
or goffering sticks.
Golosh. — A shoe with soles of wood or
leather kept on by straps over the
instep.
Gorget. — An ornamental neckband
which was full and broad in front,
worn as early as 1642 in the Col-
17
onies. Metal gorgets were worn
with armour.
Grain. — Scarlet (a colour).
Grassets or Grazzets. — A dress stuff in
use from 171 2 to 1768.
Greaves. — Armour worn to protect the
front part of the legs.
Gridelin. †” A soft blue gray colour
fashionable in the eighteenth cen-
tury.
Grogram. — A rough fabric of silk and
wool with a diagonal weave. Coun-
try women wore gowns of it in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
in England and it was much used
in the Colonies.
Hair-clasps. — Worn to keep the back
hair in place, made of various metals,
and often set with pearls, etc.
Hair-lace. — A fillet for the hair, much
worn in the eighteenth century.
Haling-hands. — Mittens for sailors and
workingmen. The palms were often
lined with leather.
Hanaper or Hamper. — A wicker bas-
kiet.
Hand-ruffs. — Ruffles for the wrist.
Hanger. — A small sword worn by gen-
tlemen with morning dress in the
seventeenth century.
Hatch. — A locker in which clothing was
kept and which generally stood at
the foot of the bed and was used as
a seat.
Hive. — A sort of straw bonnet shaped
like a bee-hive.
" Upon her head a platted hive of straw
which fortified her visage from the
sun."
Hoods. — (from the Anglo-Saxon Hood)
— Were worn with great variations
of fashion by both sexes from the
eleventh to the eighteenth century
Replaced by caps and hats in the
reign of George II.
388
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
Hookers. — The name given to certain
sects who eschewed the use of but-
tons. Mennonites or Dunkers.
Hoops. — In the Colonies followed all
the English changes of shape, and
were worn by old and young. (1712-
1778.)
Hum-Hum. — A coarse cotton fabric
brought from India, used for lining
coats, etc., 17 50-1 7 70.
Inkle. — A woolen tape or braid. Used
as a trimming and sewed on in pat-
terns.
Iron-pot. — Familiar name of the iron
head-piece worn by Cromwell's sol-
diers.
Isabella colour. — Dirty white.
Jack-boots. — Were introduced in the
seventeenth century.
Jacket. — A popular garment worn in
the Colonies from 1641 and after.
Jean. — A twilled cotton cloth used both
for underwear and for outer gar-
ments. Summer suits for men were
often made of jean in the Colonies.
Jerkin. — Another name for jacket or
doublet.
Jerkinet. — A similar garment for
women.
Joseph. — A lady's riding-habit but-
toned down the front. When worn
open this garment was popularly
called a " flying Josie."
Jumps. — A loose bodice for women,
also a loose coat or jacket for men,
reaching to the thighs, buttoned'
down the front, with sleeves to the
wrist.
Kendal. — A green woolen cloth or baize
first made at Kendal in England.
Kenting. — A fine linen fabric.
Kersey. — (under various spellings) —
A fine woolen material.
Kincob or Kinkhaib. — A rich Indian
stuff of silk, brocaded in flowers and
large figures.
Kirtle. — A loose gown or tunic.
Kist. — A chest.
Knop. — A button.
Lace. — A lacing cord (the name came
from lacier, "to fasten"). In the
earlier days, trimming woven with
gold and silver thread and put on
in flat rows. In its later sense sig-
nifying that delicate and beautiful
fabric which is one of the most ad-
mirable ornaments of costume.
Mechlin, a favourite lace in the Col-
onies, was made in Flanders; point-
lace or French point, also much
worn, was made in Alenfon.
" Your snowy wrists do Mechlin pendants
grace;
And do the smartest wigs adorn thy
face?"
— " The Test 0} Love," Nicholas Amherot.
Lappets. — The lace pendants of a lady's
cap or head-dress. Very fashion-
able in the last half of the eighteenth
century.
Lawn. — A delicate fabric used as early
as Elizabeth's day.
Leno. — A thin linen fabric used for caps.
Levite. — Another name for a polonese,
and made of dimity and muslin,
often bordered with chintz or calli-
manco.
Linset. — The stool on which a woman
sat when spinning.
)<(i
insey-wolsey. — A coarse woolen stuff
first made at Linsey in Suffolk,
England, and very popular in the
Colonies.
Liripipes. — Long streamers of gauze
or ribbon attached to a head-dress
and often hanging to the feet.
Loo masks. — Half masks covering the
face to the nose only.
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
389
Loretto. — A silk material used for
waistcoats.
Love -lock. — A long ringlet of hair
worn on the left side of the head.
Lustring. — A soft silk, plain or
flowered, in general wear for many-
years.
Macaroni. — Nickname for a London
fop. Whence arose the use of the
word in the contemporary doggerel
of Yankee Doodle and its applica-
tion as a name in the American
Revolution to a body of Maryland
troops remarkable for showy uni-
forms. (1770-1775.) (Century
Dictionary.)
Mandillion. — An outer garment. The
New England Colonists wore them
lined with cotton and fastened with
hooks and eyes.
Mantee. — A coat with sleeves which
hung open from the throat showing
the stomacher and petticoat beneath.
Mantua. — A form of sacque for out-
door wear, sometimes name of ma-
terial for making sacques. We read,
for instance, of yellow mantua silk
in 1 741.
Masks. — As a protection from the sun
and wind, were worn by women and
children in all the colonies.
Mercury. — The name for a certain kind
of cap for women in fashion about
1760 in Boston and elsewhere.
Mittens. — Were made of heavy cloth
and of dressed skins as well as
knitted of wool.
Mitts. — Fingerless gloves made of kid
or silk and often of lace-work for
summer wear. Mitts made of cot-
ton or linen like the dress were but-
toned to the shoulder of the gown
and were in fashion after the Revolu-
tion.
Mode. — A contraction of "alamode,"
a thin silk. A mantle with a hood
fashionable in the eighteenth cen-
tury was also called a '' mode."
Modesty-piece. — A piece of lace worn
across the upper part of the stays.
Monmouth Cap. — A popular headgear
mentioned in the outfits of the Col-
onists. Made originally in the old
parts of the town of Monmouth,
which is still known as the Capper's
town.
Monteroe or Mountero Cap. — Made
with a low crown and flap which
could be turned down for protection.
Morion. — A head-piece of armour intro-
duced from Spain and worn by Eng-
lish soldiers in the latter half of the
sixteenth century.
Mouches. — Black patches were thus
called because they looked like flies.
Mufifetees or Wristlets. — Were worn
when the coat sleeves were short,
by men and women in the time of
William and Mary.
Muffs. — Have been in use from early
in the seventeenth century to the
present day. For many years they
were carried by both men and women
and made of woolen stuff, fur, and
feathers. We read that Judge Dana
of Boston carried one until after the
Revolution.
Murry. — Mulberry colour.
Nabob. — A thin East India stuff.
Nankeen. — A cotton cloth of a yellow
colour imported from China and
named for Nankin, where it was
made.
Neck-cloths. — Worn by both men and
women in the Colonies.
" Before your glass each morning do you
stand
And tie your neck -cloth with a critic's
hand."
Neckstock. — A stiffly folded cravat
390
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
worn close to the throat, finished
with a buckle at the back.
Negligee. — A loose gown or sacque
open in front over a handsome petti-
coat; and, in spite of its name, was
not only in high fashion for many
years, but was worn in full dress.
Night-rail. — A dress unconfined at the
waist and closed only at the neck —
literally night-gowns, which the
ladies adopted as a morning costume.
"Three night-gowns of rich Indian stuff."
— "Mundus Muliebris."
None-so-Prettys. — Fancy tapes.
Orange-butter. — A pomade used in the
Dutch Colonies.
Orrice. — A lace or gimp trimming
woven with gold and silver thread.
Oxford Gown. — The academic gown
worn usually on public occasions by
men in authority, chiefly as a badge
of office in the Colonies.
Oznaburg. — A coarse linen made in
Hanover and named for a province
of that name.
Paduasoy. — A rich smooth silk made
originally at Padua.
Palisade. — A wire sustaining the hair
next to the first knot. Part of the
commode head-dress.
Paniers. — Were made of hoops of
straw, cane, or whalebone fastened
together by tapes.
Paragon. — A stuff used for common
wear in the seventeenth century.
Patches. — First introduced towards the
end of the reign of Charles I and
varied into all manner of shapes.
Pattens. — A sole of wood on iron rings
fastened to the foot by leather straps.
Pelerine. — A small cape with long ends
in front.
Penistone. — (under various spellings) —
A coarse woolen stuff made in Eng-
land in the seventeenth and eigh-
teenth centuries.
Pennache. — A bunch of tassels or nar-
row ribbons.
Perpetuana, Petuna, or Perpets. — A
glossy woolen stuff like lasting worn
by the Puritans in 1629 and after.
Persian. — A thin silk used for linings
of cloaks and hoods or for summer
gowns. Sold in New England in
the eighteenth century.
Petticoat. — (Originally petty-coet) — A
garment worn universally and made
of every sort of material. Quilted
petticoats were advertised as early as
1720 in the Colonies.
Philomot. — Colour of a dead leaf.
Pig^tail Wig. — Wig with a plaited tail
tied with a ribbon, worn very gener-
"* ally in the middle of the eighteenth
century.
Pilgrim. — A cape or ruffle fastened to
the back of a bonnet to shield the
neck; usually made of thin silk.
Pillion. — The extension of a saddle on
which a woman rode before the days
of side-saddles.
Pinner. — Usually a child's bib or apron
and mentioned often in the seven-
teenth century, but caps fastened on
with pins were also called pinners in
the eighteenth century.
Pins or Pinnes. — Were sold for one
shilling and four pence a thousand
in the early Colonial days.
Plumpers. — Very thin round and light
balls to plump out and fill up hollow
cheeks.
Points. — Ties or laces of ribbon or
leather decorated with tags and used
instead of buttons to fasten garments
together. They were in general use
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
391
until late in the seventeenth century,
both for armour and civilian's dress.
Polonese. — A long-sleeved coat-like gar-
ment for women opening down the
front, finished often with a large
hood at the back of the neck.
Pomander. — A perforated ball or box
filled with perfumes, used to pre-
vent infection.
Pompadour or Pompadore. — Was a
word in constant use in the eighteenth .
century. We read of Pompadore
shoes, laces, caps, aprons, sacques,
stockings, and head-dresses.
Pompon .^-An ornament made of arti-
ficial flowers, feathers, tinsel, etc.
Pretintailles. — L7aFge-riit-out patterns
laid on a dress as trimming. iTrtfe^^
duced in the time of William and
Mary.
Pninella.-
lasting.
-A close woolen stuff like
Puce Colour. — Colour of a flea,
given by Louis XVI.
Name
Pug. — A short cape with hood attached
and usually made of silk, velvet, or
cloth.
Pump. — A shoe with a thin sole and
low heel, first mentioned in the six-
teenth century.
Purl. — A species of edging used on
caps, collars, cuffs, etc.
Qualitie. — A coarse tape for strings or
binding, used in all the Colonies be-
tween 1700 and 1800.
Rail or Rayle. — A loose garment (old
English), but later applied only to
night-gowns.
Ramall or Romall. — A neckerchief or
small shawl to be worn over the
shoulders.
Ramilie. — A wig bushy at the sides, a
braided tail in the back with a large
bow at top and small bow at the
end. (1708 and after.)
Rash. — A wool fabric of inferior quality.
Ratteen. — A heavy woolen material
something like drugget.
Rayonn€. — A species of hood.
Robings.— -The ornamental part of a
gown, such as lapels, reveres, etc.
Rocket or Rochet. — A long woolen
mantle trimmed with fringe.
Brought from Devon or Cornwall.
Roquelaure or Roquelo. — A cloak for
both men and women, named for
the Duke of Roquelaure, mentioned
in New England papers of 1730.
Made of all heavy materials and
generally of bright colours. Often
two small capes of the same material
finished the garment on the shoul-
ders.
Roses. — Ornaments in the form of roses
made of ribbons, lace, and even
jewels. One of the pet extrava-
gances of the seventeenth century.
Worn on shoes, garters, and hat-
bands. We read of an EngHsh gal-
lant who paid 30 pounds for a pair.
Round-cord Cap. — A cap which was
tied on with a fine cord back of the
ears.
Ruflles. — Of lawn and lace were worn
in the sleeves and in the front of the
shirts until after 1800.
Russel or Russet. — A twilled woolen
stuff like baize, much worn in the
Colonies.
"Our clothing is good sheepskins
Gray russet for our wives
'Tis warmth and not gay clothing
That doth prolong our lives."
— "Coridon's Song."
Safeguard. — An outside petticoat worn
over the dress as a protection from
392
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
mud or dust in riding by women in
the Colonies. (1650 and after.)
Sagathy or Sagathie.— A durable
woolen stuff.
Samara or Semnar. — A lady's jacket.
Originally a Dutch garment. " It had
a loose body and side flaps, or skirts
which extended to the knee, the
sleeves short to the elbow, turned
back and faced" (Randle Holmes).
The samare was often made long
and was worn opening over a petti-
coat and waistcoat very much like
the English sacque.
Sarsnet, Sarsenet, or Sarsinet. — A thin
silk still in use, but dating from the
thirteenth century.
Satin Jean. — A thick cotton cloth with
a glossy surface used for shoes and
similar purposes.
Say or Soy. — (from the French soie) —
Originally a silk and wool material.
It is mentioned in Colonial lists
from 1629 to 1768.
Serge. — A twilled fabric of either wool
or silk, often of both.
Shades. — ^A head covering, or a stuff
suitable for headgear. We read
in 1766 of "painted lawns and
chequer'd shades."
Shadow. — A sunshade either worn on
the head or held in the hand, (i 580-
1647 ^.nd after.)
Shag. — A heavy woolen cloth with a
long nap. (1632 and after.)
Shagreen. — An untanned leather with
a granular surface often made of
sharkskin and dyed green.
Shalloons. — A woolen fabric not unlike
the modern challis and made in
Chalons, France.
Sherry-v allies. — A sort of legging worn
in riding, to protect from mud, but-
toned up outside the trousers.
Shift. — A shirt or chemise, usually of
fine linen. This undergarment was
in Colonial days often made with
long sleeves which were laid in fine
plaits with a knife when laundered.
Shoepack. — A shoe shaped like a moc-
casin, without a separate sole, made
of tanned leather and much worn
during the Revolution.
Skilts. — Short full trousers reaching
just below the knee, full half a yard
wide at the bottom. Worn during the
Revolution by the country people.
Slyders or Slivers. — Overalls.
Smock. — A shirt of heavy linen worn
by farm labourers and workingmen.
Before 1700 a shift was often called
a smock. In "Mundus Muliebris"
we read:
"Twice twelve day-smocks of Holland
fine
Twelve more for night, all Flanders
lac'd."
Snuff. — Came into general use in Eng-
land in 1702.
Snuff-boxes. — Were carried by both
men and women for the greater part
of the century.
Solitaire. — A broad black ribbon intro-
duced from France in the time of
Louis XV worn close around the
throat, apparently to protect the coat
from the powdered wig. Sometimes
it was tied to the back of the wig
and brought round and tucked in
the shirt ruffle. According to ad-
vertisements in the American news-
papers, it was much worn in the
Colonies.
Sorti. — A knot of small ribbon peeping
out between the pinner and bonnet.
Spagnolet. — A gown with narrow
sleeves, a PEspagnole.
Spanish Paper. — A red colour with
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
393
which the ladies of Spain painted
their faces. It was made up into Httle
books and a leaf was torn out and
rubbed upon the cheeks, the Vermil-
lion powder which covered it being
transferred to the face. It was in
use at the end of the eighteenth cen-
tury.
Stamin or Stammel. — A heavy cloth
like linsey-woolsey.
Startups or Startop. — A sort of buskin
for ordinary wear worn in the six-
teenth and seventeenth centuries by
country folk.
Stayhooks. — Small ornamental hooks
stuck in the edge of the bodice on
which to hang an etui.
Steinkirk. — A cravat folded with care-
less grace. Name given by the
French to commemorate the battle
in 1692.
Stirrup-hose. — Were worn on horse-
back to protect the nether garments.
They were wide at the back and
fastened with straps to the girdle.
Stock. — A stiff neck-cloth buckled at
the back of the neck, successor to
the cravat.
Stock-buckle. — Buckle which fastened
the stock.
" The stock with buckle made of plate
Has put the cravat out of date."
Strap Cap. — A cap which fastened with
flaps under the chin.
Sultane. — A gown caught up with but-
tons and loops.
Swanskin. — A fleecy cloth like Canton
flannel, used for linings, etc.
Tabby. — A sort of watered silk.
Tabinet or Tabaret. — Another name for
poplin, used for petticoats, and also
for covering furniture.
Taffeta. — A rich cloth used first in the
sixteenth century and considered a
luxury in the Colonial days.
Taminy. — A woolen stuff like alpaca,
made in Norfolk, 1653 and after.
Tassets. — Splints of steel fastened to
the corselet as a protection for the
thighs. Worn until late in the seven-
teenth century.
Thrum. — The extremity of a weaver's
warp, often about nine inches long,
which cannot be woven. Caps and
hats knitted of this material were
called thrums.
"And her thrum'd hat and her muffler
too."
Tiffany. — A heavy silk fabric. (1792 and
after.)
Tippets. — A neck covering made of a
variety of materials worn for orna-
ment, of gauze and tissues, and for
warmth, of fur.
Tongs. — Overalls of coarse cotton or
linen.
Tufftaffeta. — A taffeta with a chenille
stripe, worn in New England.
Tuly. — A shade of red.
Turban also Turbin. — A head-dress for
women made of gauze and trimmed
with feathers, very fashionable in the
Colonies. (1760 and after.)
Trollopee. — Another name for negligee.
Vambrace. — The piece of armour
which protected the forearm from
elbow to wrist.
Vampay. — A short hose or sock of wool.
Veil. — One of the most ancient articles
of female attire, the couvre chef
of the Anglo-Saxon ladies and an
important part of the conventual
394
HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
costume, but retaining its place in
the wardrobes of women to-day.
Whisk. — A collarette or cape to cover
the neck and shoulders, usually
made of muslin trimmed with lace
and worn with low-cut gowns, in
the seventeenth and eighteenth cen-
turies. We read of Tiffany whisks
in 1660.
Whitney. — A heavy coarse stuff used
for coats, cloaks, and petticoats,
1737 and after.
Whittle. — A blanket shawl with fringe,
worn in 1665 and after, in the Col-
onies.
Worsted. — A woolen cloth first made
at Worstead in England in the reign
of Henry I.
INDEX
Index
Ablettes, 72
Acadian exiles, 36
Actors in America, 238
Adams's, Mrs. Abigail, letter from England,
describing the fashions, 259
Adventurers, 33, 43
Advertisements in colonial newspapers, 245-
251
Andre, Major, 255
Andros, Sir Edward, 136
Aprons, 53, 68, 71, 100, 130, 195, 202
Armour, 56, 59, 60, 99
Arquebusiers, 27
Artificial flowers, 213
Artisans, 33
Attitude of the Colonists in New England
towards the English Church, 113, 114
Baby-clothes, 283
Back boards, 196
Bacon's Rebellion, anecdote of, 71
Baize, gowns of, 258
Baldricks, 51
Baltimore, Lord, 56
Bandoliers, 99, 103
Bands, 51, 64
Banyans, 315
Barbadoes, 63
Basquinas, 28
Bath bonnets, 222
Bayard, Nicholas, costume of, 144
Bayard, Madam, costume of, 147
Beards, 44
Beaver hats, 190, 214
Berkeley, Sir Wm., Governor of the Virginia
Colony, 48, 60, 61
Bishops, 222
Blacksmith, 53
Boarding-school outfit, 291
Bobs, 300, 303
Bodices, coloured, ^^
Bodices, pair of, 190
Bonnets, 202, 214, 222, 225, 256, 273
Boots, 64, 312, 324
Bowne's, Elizabeth, descriptions of dress in
1798, 273
Breeches, 53, 61, 67, 143
Bricklayer, 53
Bridal veil, 206, 209
Bridge spectacles, 193
Bridling, 196
Brigade Orders, West Point, 369
Broad-brimmed hats, 95, 312, 323
Buccaneers, 27, 28
Buckle, 247
Buckles, 311
Buckskin breeches, 346
Buckskin shoes, 346
Buff coats, 59, 60, 107
Burney, Miss, verses on a great-coat by, 257
Burroughs, Anne, 47
Buttons, 64, 67, 109, 324
Calash, 214, 222, 233
California, 26, 31
Campaign wig, 147, 299
Canes, 205
Cannons or breeches fastenings, 99
Capes, 34
Capotes, 34
Caps for women, 100, 193, 214, 217, 257
Capuchins, 229
Cardinal, 140, 193, 194, 229
Carpenters, 53
Cavalier, Robert, Sieur de La Salle, 32, 33
Cavahers, 63
Chaises, 263
Chapeau bras, 312
Chatelaines, 133
Chief justice, robe of a, 335
Children, dress of, 17th century, 47, 52, 113,
13s
Children, dress of, i8th century, 283, 292
Chintz gowns, 257
Church services, 17th century, 54
City troop, uniform of the, 350
Cleaning estabhshment, 249
Clergymen, dress of, 17th century, 54, 114, 115
Clergymen, dress of, i8th century, 304, 307
Cloaks, 100, 103, 193, 217, 229, 252, 263
Clogs, 34, 186, 217
Coats, 17th century, 61, 109, 143
Coats, i8th century, 312, 332
Cockades, 376
397
398
INDEX
Cocked hats, 143, 299, 328, 332
Cocking the hat, various forms of, 308, 311
Coif of a Dutch matron, 130, 136
Coifs, men, 152, 156
Coifs, women, 164
Colebatteen ruffles, 147
Colonial militia, 99
Colonial period, end of, 255
Commode, 108, 147, 181
Connecticut settlers, 84, 85
Continental soldiers, uniform of, 359
Cordovan leather, 26
Corselets, 99
Countryman, 17th century, 54
Cravats, 312
Creedon, Captain, 61
Cue de Paris, 222
Cuffs, 143, 202
Cuirass 60
Curli-murHs, 195
Curls, 194
Curtsey, 199
Curwen, Judge, 103
Cushions for the hair, 214, 217
Custis children, clothes ordered for, 288
Dances, 234
Delany, Mrs., 193
Delaware settled, 136
Delaware, Swedes on the, 136
Dentists, 248
Deportment, 196
Dickinson, Maria, letter quoted, 258
Discriminative dress, 230
Domestics, 244, 246
Doublets, 28, 44, 51, 59, 61, 96, 109
Drake, Sir Francis, 26
Drummer, 53
Dutch babies, 129, 130
Dutch bridal crown, 130
Dutch bride, 130
Dutch children, dress of, 135
Dutch merchants, 121
Dutch peasant women, dress of, 126
Dutch settlers, 121
Dutchman, working dress of, 129
Dyes, 122, 133
Earrings, 52
Encouragement of home manufactures, 252
Enghsh gentleman, dress of, 17th century, 44,
51, 52, 139, 143
English gentleman, dress of, i8th century, 299
English gentlewoman, dress of, 17th century,
52, 139, 143
English gentlewoman, dress of, i8th century,
177
English rule in all the Colonies, 139
Etui, 202
Eves, Miss Sarah, journal of, 241
Falbalas, 143
Falling bands, 61, 96
Falling collars, 61, 96
Fans, 68, 189, 214
Farthingale, 47, 193
Farthingale breeches, 44
Fashion dolls, 178, 181, 256
Feathers in the hair, 195, 214
Fenwick, Lady Mary, 108
First Troop City Cavalry, uniform of, 349
Fithian, Phihp, diary of, 230, 234
Flounces, 143
Fob pockets, 318
Forrest, Mrs., 47
Franks, Miss, 256
French curls, 196
French falls, 64
French settlers, dress of, 33, 34
French taste prevalent in America, 256
Frocks or overshirts, 263
Full dress in New England (middle of 18th
century), 214, 217
Funeral of Lady Andros, 107
Furbelows, 143
Fur caps, 130
Fur-trimmed jackets, 130
Galloon, 68
Gauntlets, 99
Geneva gown, 56, 114
George III, dress in the reign of, 202, 316
German settlers, 160, 163
Gipsy hats, loi, 196, 214
Gloves, 67, 96, 99, 100, 256, 323
Gold beads, 217
Gold lace, 99
Gorget, 60
Gray hair fashionable, 307
Great-coats for men, 316, 319, 320, 332
Great-coats for women, 257, 258
Green aprons worn by Quakers, 140
Gumbos, 35
Guns, 99, 100 .
Hair-dressing, 217, 218, 230, 250
Hair powder, 143, 193, 331
Half-Moon, The, 121
Hampshire kerseys, 96
Hatchments, 107
Hats, 95, 135, 140, 143, 332
Head-dresses, 143, 194
Helmets, 59
Herrisons, 268
Hibbins, Mistress Anne, no
Higginson, letter from, 84
High heels, 139
High prices during the Revolution, 256
Hogarth, 307
Holland, dress of the women, 89
Holland shirts, 51, 61, 64
Hollar, Wenceslaus, 86
Home Life in New England, i8th century, 263
INDEX
399
Homespun parties, 252
Hoods, 34, 68, looTTbS, 152, 185, 186, 214
Hooks and eyes, 96
Hoop, the, 182, 193, 195, 217, 256
Hooped petticoats, 182, 193, 196, 199
Horn flasks, 99
Horse-blocks, 263
Horsehair bonnets, 222
Hose, 68
Household servants, 244
Hubbard store, contents of, 73
Hudson, Captain, 109
Hudson, Henry, 121
Huguenots, the, 122
Hunting shirts, 346, 354
Inauguration ball, description of, 267
Inauguration costumes of Washington, 267,
328
Irish stockings, 96
Isham, Sir Thomas, wedding suit of, no
Italian curls, 196
Jackets, 130
Jefferson, Thomas, suit worn by, 328
Jersey Blues, uniform of the, 349
Jerseys (the) settled, 136
Jesuit missionaries, 25, 26
Jewelry, 17th century, 72
Jockey coat, 311
Judges, costume of, 152
Jute-braids, 250
Keeper of the Great Seal, 155
Kerchiefs, 34
Kitchen utensils, 74
Knit caps, 96
Labourers, 53, 133, 328
Labrador tea, 252
Lake, Mrs., 93; list of household articles, 93;
fur mantle, 93
Lange, Dr. Jacob de, wardrobe of, 134
Lange, Mrs. de, wardrobe of, 133
Lappets, 195
La Salle, Robert Cavalier, Sieur, 32, 33
Law Courts in England, 17th century, 151
Lawyers' bags, 335
Lawyers in the Colonies, 17th century, 114,
115, 148; i8th century, 335
Leather breeches, 328, 332, 346
Legal costumes, 17th century, 148; 1 8th cen-
tury, 335
Legal customs, 17th century, 148; i8th cen-
tury, 335, 336
Leggings, 34, 332
Lemcke, Count, 167
Leverett, Sir John, Governor of the Massa-
chusetts Colony, 100
Light Horse of Philadelphia, uniform of the,
.349
Livery at Mt. Vernon, 245
Lolonais, Francis, 28
Long Island settled, 136
Long waistcoats, 303
Lynn, shoes made at, 95; worn by women, 217
Macaroni costume, 241
Macaronis, the, 241, 243
Maine settled in 1623, 113
Mandillion, 84, 85, 96
Manhattan, gay costumes in, 122
Manifesto against long hair, 89
Mantillas, 28
Mantles, 68
Marie Antoinette, Queen, makes a reform in
dress of children, 292
Maryland settled, 56
Masks, 193
Mason, 53
Massachusetts Line, Orders for, 365
Massachusetts: Settled in 1620, 83; Order of
the General Court of, 94, 95, 108; dress
of women, 95; a religious commonwealth,
115
Menendez de Aviles, Pedro de, 25
Mennonites, 160
Militia, dress of the, 346
Mincing air, 312
Minuet, the, 234
Minuit, Peter, 121
Minute-men, dress of the, 346
Mischianza, 255
Mittens, 67, 100
Mitts, children's, 284
Moccasins, 34
Mocking birds, 73
Monmouth caps, 44, 64, 96
Moravian caps, 167
Moravians, 163, 164, 167
Morgan, Sir Henry, 28
Morions, 55
Moro (1500-1778), 25
Mourning dress and customs, 17th century,
104, 107, 108
Mourning dress, i8th century, 251
Mourning rings, 72, 107
Muff-dogs, 62
Muffs, 62, 143, 190
Murillo(i6i8-i682), 25
Musical instruments, 74
Musk-melon bonnet, 222
Neckcloths, 64, 109, 143, 147, 324
Negligees, 199, 230
Net worn over a queue, 316
New England, 17th century, dress of the
women, 100
New Hampshire settled in 1623, 113
New-market coat, 316
New Orleans, 35
400
INDEX
Non-conformists, gowns of, 114
Nonnandy peasants, 36
Oak sticks, 312
Opera glasses, 241
Ordinary people, dress of, i8th century, 328
Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, 86
Orrices, 147, 186
Outfit of fashionable man, 331
Outfit of the Massachusetts Bay Colonists, 84
Outfit of the Virginia Colonists, 44
Overalls, 357
Overshoes, 335
Pamunkeys, King of the, 77
Pamunkeys, Queen of the, 77
Parasols, 214
Pastors, choosing, in thd Massachusetts
Colony, 114
Patch boxes, 189
Patches, 62, 189
Patriotic agreement, 251
Patroons, 122
Pattens, 130, 201, 217
Pearls, 52, 72
Peccadilles, 51
Peddlers, 74
Penn, William, 139; advice on dress, 140;
blue sash, 139; wigs, 143
Pennsbury, 140
Pepys, 109
Percy, Sir George, Governor of Virginia
Colony, 51
Perfumed powders, 68
Perfumes, 202, 205
Periwigs or wigs, 64, 109, 140, 143, 147, 159,
299, 300, 307, 312, 315, 319
Perriot, 267, 271
Perspective glasses, 193
Petticoat breeches, 61
Petticoats, 68, 130, 193, 202, 217
Pigtails, 312
Pikes, 99
Pillions, 263
Planters' wives, dress of, 17th century, 71
Plymouth pilgrims, 83
Pockets, 242
Points, 53, 54, 59, 85, 104
Pohtical badges, 189
Pomander, 202
Pompadours, 200
Pompons, 195, 210
Posey dance, 28
Potpourri, 205
Pouncet box, 202
Powder, hair, 143, 193, 331
Preaching gown, 56, 114
Presbyterians, gown worn by, 114
Pritchard, Mrs. Frances, wardrobe of, 71
Provincials, uniforms of the, 346
Puritans of the Massachusetts Bay Co., 83, 84
Quaker aprons, 140
Quaker bonnets, 225
Quaker hats, 140
Quaker settlers in Pennsylvania Province, 139
Quaker weddings, description of, 226, 258
Quakers, dress of the, 139, 140, 225, 226, 229,
258
Quakers, portraits of, 258
Queensbury, Duchess of, a wonderful gown of,
195
Queues, 316, 331
Quilted petticoats, 202, 257
Quitasols, 230
Ramilie wig, 299, 304
Rapiers, 109
Restraining Acts of the Pilgrims, 96
Revere, Paul, a dentist, 248
Rhode Island settled 1636, 113
Richbell, Robert, 109
Riding dress, 17th century, 109
Riding sxiit, a lady's, i8th century, 186
Ringlets, 273
Rings, 72, 130
Robings, 196, 273
Roelas, Juan de Las, 1558-1625, 25
Rollers, 218
Roquelaures, 229, 303, 320
Rosettes, 96
Roundhead Puritans (old song), 89
Ruffled shirts, 332
Ruffles, 139, 147, 195, 202
Ruffs, 26, 44, 159
Russell, 222
Sacque, 182, 187, 201, 202
Sailors, dress of, 328
Samare, 133
Sandys, George, 52
Sandys, Sir Edwin, 44
Sartori, Mrs., story of dress worn by, 274
Scarfs, 214
Scarlet cloaks worn by women, 263
Scarlet robes worn by Judges, 103, 152, 335
Scarlet stockings, 299
Scent bottles, 202
Sedan chairs, 182
Sergeant-at-law, reign of Charles II, 156;
reign of James II, 159
Servants, i8th century, 244, 246, 268
Seventh Day Baptists, 168
Shoe-buckles, 64, 139
Shoemaking at Salem, 90
Shoes, 64, 68, 95, 96, 139, 143, 217, 328
Shifts, 130
Shirts, 51, 61, 64
Short-waists, 273, 274
Shoulder belts, 99
Silver lace, 99
Silverware (17th century), 74
Skimmer hat, 222
Slashed sleeves, 51, 96
INDEX
401
Slaves, dress of, 245, 246
Sleeves, 94, 143, 202, 217
Slippers, 214
Smith, Captain John, 44
Snuff-boxes, 202, 311
Snuff, use of, 311
Spanish gentleman, dress of, i6th century, 26
Spanish painters, 25
Spanish point-lace, 143
Spanish settlers, 25
Spanish soldiers, i6th century, 27
Spanish women, dress of, 28
Spectacles, 193
Square toes, 139, 311
St. Augustine, 25, 26
Stays, 190, 217
Steinkirk, 147
Stock buckles, 300
Stockings, 64, 68, 143, 214, 217, 299
Stocks, 332
Stoffelsen, Vrouentje Ides, inventory of cloth-
ing, 130
Stomachers, 143, 182, 202
Store in the Virginia Colony, contents of a, 73
Striped silk, coats of, 273
Stuyvesant, Peter, Governor of New Am-
sterdam, 125
Sumptuous dress, 109
Surplices, 54
Tabby, 68
Tailors, 53, 249
Tanneries, 95
Tassetts, 59
Temple spectacles, 193
Tete moutonee, 196
Texas, 31
Theatre, first, in America, 238
Theatrical costumes, 238
Theatrum Mulierum, 89
Thrums, 53, 328
Tiffany hoods, 95
Tippets, 155, 193
Tow cloth, 263
Tower and commode, 181
Traders, 34
Tradesmen, dress of, 328
Training Day, 100
Treaty of Paris in 1764, 36
Tuilles, 59
Turbans, 214
Umbrellas, 214, 320
Undergirdle, 130
Uniforms, military, 1 775-1800, 340
Uniforms, naval, 1 775-1800, 340
Vandyke collar, 52
Vandyke edging, 51
Vargas, Luis de (1502-1568), 25
Velasquez, Diego (1599-1660), 25
Vests, 34
Virginia ball, 230
Virginia Company, 43
Virginia Infantry, uniform of the, 349
Vos, Madame Cornelia de, 134
Wagon bonnet, 225
Waistcoats, 67, 143, 186, 303, 307, 324, 332
Walloons, the, 122
Walpole, Horace, 206
Wansey's, Mr., description of dress at the
theatre in Philadelphia, 272, 273
Warren's, Mrs. Mercy, 271; verses on dress,
272
Washington, George, dress of, first inaugura-
tion, 267; second inauguration, 328; uni-
form of, 349
Washington, Mrs., 268
Watches, 320
Waterproof capes, 320
Watteau, the artist, 190
Watteau sacque, 182
West Point, Brigade Orders, 369
Whig colours, 349
White, Bishop, anecdote of, 307
White, Mrs., inventory of, 200
Wig makers, 250
Wigs and periwigs, 64, 109, 140, 143, 147,
159, 299, 300, 303, 307, 312, 315, 319
Willoughby, Mrs. Sarah, wardrobe of, 71
Winthrop, Margaret, 86
Wister, Sally, dress of, 257
Wooden heels, 68, 95
Wooden shoes, 68
Worked head, 194
Workingman, dress of, 17th century, 53, 54
Workingman, dress of, i8th century, 244, 328,
Yankee Doodle, 242
ZiNZENDORF, Count, dress of, 168
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED
i8
Authorities Consulted
Calendar 0} Virginia State Papers, Richmond, 1875.
History 0} the Virginia Settlement, Captain John Smith, London, 1624.
First Discovery and Settlement of Virginia, William Stith, Williamsburg, 1747.
Virginia Vetusta, Edward D. Neill, Albany, 1885.
Virginia Carolorum, Edward D. Neill, Albany, 1886.
Economic History of Virginia in the Seventeenth Century, Philip Alexander Bruce,
New York, 1896.
Old Virginia and Her Neighbors, John Fiske, Boston, 1897.
History of the Barbadoes, John Poyer, London, 1808.
A True and Exact A ccount 0} the Island of the Barbadoes, Richard Ligon, London,
1657-
Annals 0} the Swedes on the Delaware, John C. Clay, Philadelphia, 1835.
Economic and Social History 0} New England, 1620-1789, William B. Weeden,
Boston, 1890.
History of Norwich, Connecticut, Frances Mainwaring Caulkins, Norwich, 1866.
History and Antiquities of Boston, Samuel Drake, Boston, 1856.
History of Lynn, Massachusetts, Alonzo Lewis and James R. Newhall, Boston,
1865.
Life of William Penn, Samuel M. Janney, Philadelphia, 1852.
The Germans in Pennsylvania, WiUiam Beidelman, Easton, 1898.
The Story of Louisiana, Maurice Thompson, Boston, 1889.
Colonial Days and Ways, Helen Evertson Smith, New York, 1900.
Dutch and Quaker Colonies in America, John Fiske, Boston, 1899.
New Jersey as a Colony and as a State, Francis Bagley Lee, New York, 1902.
Social History of Flatbush, Mrs. Vanderbilt, New York, 1881.
History of New York, M. J. Lamb, New York, 1877.
A Short History of the English Colonies in America, Henry Cabot Lodge, New
York, 1 88 1.
A Story of the City of New York, Charles Burr Todd, New York, 1888.
Goode Vrow of Manahatta, Mrs. John King Van Rensselaer, New York, 1898.
Discovery of the Great Northwest, James Baldwin, New York, 1901.
History of the Antiquities of St. Augustine, Florida, George R. Fairbanks, New
York, 1858.
Description of Louisiana in 1683, Father Hennepin, New York, 1888.
Men, Women and Manners in Colonial Times, Sidney G. Fisher, Philadelphia, 1898.
405
4o6 AUTHORITIES CONSULTED
Annals of Philadelphia, John Watson, Philadelphia, 1829.
Annals of New York, John Watson, Philadelphia, 1846.
Letters to Franklin by his Family and Friends, 1 751-1790, New York, 1859.
Child Life in Colonial Days, Mrs. Alice Morse Earle, New York, 1899.
Costume of Colonial Times, Mrs. AUce Morse Earle, New York, 1894.
Life of Margaret Winthrop, Mrs. AUce Morse Earle, New York, 1895.
Dolly Madison, Mrs. Goodwin, New York, 1896.
The Writings of George Washington, edited by Wm. Chauncey Ford, New York,
1889.
Martha Washington, Anne Hollingsworth Wharton, New York, 1896.
The Quaker, a Study in Costume, Mrs. Francis Gummere, Philadelphia, 1902.
Colonial Days and Dames, Anne Hollingsworth Wharton, Philadelphia, 1898.
Journal and Correspondence of Abigail Adams, New York, 1841.
Diary of Sally Wister, Philadelphia, 1902.
UEvantail, Octave Uzanne, Paris, 1882.
UOmbrelle; le gant; et le Mouclwir, Octave Uzanne, Paris, 1883.
Son Altesse, la Femme, Octave Uzanne, Paris, 1885.
Autobiography and Correspondence of Mrs. Delaney, Boston, 1880.
Diary of Madame D'Arblay, London, 1842.
History of the United States, Thomas Higginson, Boston, 1875.
The Republican Court, Rufus W. Griswold, New York, 1855.
Pioneers of France in the New World, Francis Parkman, Boston, 1865.
Discovery of the Great West, Francis Parkman, Boston, 1869.
The Spectator, London, 1712.
Pepys' Diary, edited by H. B. Wheatley, London, 1896.
Evelyn's Diary, edited by H. B. Wheatley, London, 1879.
Table Talk of Samuel Rogers, New York, 1856.
Nollekins and His Times, John T. Smith, London, 1895.
Trachten der Volker, A. Kretchmer, Leipzig, 1864.
Cyclopedia of Costume, J. R. Planche, London, 1876.
Pictorial History of England, Charles Knight, London, 1841.
History of English Dress, Mrs. Hill, London, 1893.
Annals of Fashion by a Lady of Rank, London, 1847.
Yester-year, Ten Centuries of Toilette, A. Robida, London, 1892.
History of Fashion in France, Augustin Challamel, London, 1882.
Institutions, Usages et Costumes du lyieme siecle, Paul Lacroix, Paris, 1880.
Institutions, Usages et Costumes du iSieme siecle, Paul Lacroix, Paris, 1878.
Costume in England, F. W. Fairholt, London, 1846.
England in the Eighteenth Century, WiUiam Connor Sydney, New York, 1891.
Notes on Civil Costume in England, Hon. Lewis Wingfield, London, 1889.
Le Costume Historique, A. Racinet, Paris, 1891.
Memoirs of Lady Sarah Lennox, London, 1902.
Civil Costume in England, Charles Martin, London, 1842,
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED 407
Men, Maidens and Manners a Hundred Years Ago, John Ash ton, London, 1888.
Brides and Bridals, John Cordy Jeffreson, London, 1872.
Mundus Muliebris and The Fop's Dictionary, Mary Evelyn, edited by her father,
London, 1690.
Percy Society Publications, London, 1849.
Their Majesties' Servants, or Annals of the English Stage, Dr. Doran, London, 1865.
Glossary of Words, Phrases, Names and Allusions, Robert Nares, London, 1828.
Chronicles of Fashion, Mrs. Stone, London, 1848.
Gainsborough, Sir Walter Armstrong, London, 1898.
Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Walter Armstrong, London, 1900.
Hogarth, John and Joshua Boydell, London, 1798.
Romney, Sir Herbert Maxwell, London, 1902.
The Every Day Book, William Hone, London, 1826.
The King's Peace, a historical sketch of the English Law Courts, F. A. Inderwick,
Q. C, London, 1895.
A Book about Lawyers, John Cordy Jeffreson, Barrister at Law, London, 1867.
Bench and Bar of Philadelphia, John Hill Martin, Philadelphia, 1883.
Sketches of the Judicial History of Massachusetts, 1630-1775, Emory Washburn,
Boston, 1840.
A History of the American Church, Rt. Rev. Leighton Coleman, D.D., Bishop
of Delaware, New York, 1903.
History of the American Episcopal Church, Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry,
D.D., Bishop of Iowa.
A Book about the Clergy, John Cordy JeflFreson, London, 1870.
A Book about Doctors, John Cordy Jeffreson, New York, 1861.
Diary of Samuel Sewall, Massachusetts Historical Collections, Boston, 1878.
Literary Diary of Ezra Stiles, D.D., LL.D., New York, 1901.
Diary of Manasseh Cutler, Cincinnati, 1888.
History of the British Army, Hon. J. W. Fortescue, London, 1902.
History of Our Navy, John R. Spears, New York, 1897.
Uniforms of the United States Army, 1775-1900, Pubhshed by the United States
Government, Washington, 1900.
'T^3k-^
^?3^.'^
/
ll'll:
^Miuimh.
^ ^^^
r?1VT T\ A
P . 1 DAY
t^'X
HOME USE
CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
MAIN LIBRARY
This book is due on tlie last date stamped below.
1-month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405.
6-month loans may be recharged by bringing books
to Circulation Desk.
Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior
to due date.
ALL BOOKS ARE SUBJECT TO RECALL 7 DAYS
AFTER DATE CHECKED OUT.
r " / V
—r-t^
SEC„ Clii
<1 '75
secciR.
5 0-82
LD21 — A-40m-8,'75
(S7737L)
General Library
University of California
Berkeley
mmm
pana
YU ZJ/U4
Ml
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBftARY
