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NYPL RESEAFICH UeflAAlES
ip>li:it Ijl! lifl !U.||il||L|l>ii'| '• I
3433 07589378 8
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JZooi^iL^ C'
THE
HISTORY AND SURVEY
OP
LONDON
iani tt0 €ttb(ron».
PROM THE EARLIEST PERX03>
TO THE PRESENT TIME.
IK FOUR vo];x;mes.
BY B. LAMBERT,
SDITOK OP BERTHOLLET*9 CHEMICAL STATICS ; MICHAUH'i TKATSJLf
lar AMCJUICA; VILLIERS'S CSSAT on the REFOItMATlOVi
AVD tahiods other works.
VOL III
-1. ;
-^ LONDON!
PRtliTED FOE T. HUGHES, NO. 1, STATIOKERS'-COUBT; AND
H. JONES, NO. 1, PATERNOSTER-ROW ;
ByOcvick and Clarke, Aldcrsf ate-atte -t.
1800.
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HISTORY AND SURVEY
OF
London 8^ its Environs.
SURVEY OF IjONDON, WESTMINSTER, AND SOXJTHWAKK.
CHAP. XXII.
OfCripplegate Withtmi.— Fore-street. ^St; Giles, Cripple-
gate. — Dissenting Meeting'houses.^^Grul' street. ^-Ge*
neral Monk's House. — Whitecross^street. — Hospital of
Si. Giles. — HedcrosS'Street. -^'Williams's lAbrary.^^^
Cfowder's fVelL — Jewin-street. — Barbican.-"^ tVil"
longhby House. -^ Garter^ Place. — Bridgewater-square.^^
Beech-tane.^-^Drewrie House. -^^ Askew* s Alms-houses.
-^Glovers' Hall.
The hounds and principal streets of this part of
the ward were mentioned in the last chapter ; we
now proceed to the survey of it.
Parallel to the wall is Fore-street, which extendi
from Moorfields to Redcross-street, and is one o the
handsomest streiets in the city of London, whether
it be considered for its length and breadth, or for the
neatness and uniformity of its buildings ; the whole
VOL. III. B of
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9 BISTOEY AKO SURVEY OF
of the south side having been built bv public con-*
tract with the ci^, upon an uniform plan.
At ]the south^'We^t conier of thia ntreeU and feeing
Redcross-street, stands the parochial ehurch of St.
Giles, Cripplegate.
This church is so called Irom being dedicated to
a saint of that name, bom at Athens, who was Ab-
bot 9f Ni^n^^ J9 Fmnce. It was fou9(Je4 about the
year one thousand and ttiaety, b^ Alfiine, the first
master of St Barthoiomew's-hospital.
The old church was destroyed by fire, in the year
15*5 ; after which the present structure was erected,
and is one of the few that fortunately escaped the
drc^^ cmiflagfatioiji i^ 166Q.,
This ancient edifice may very properly be num-
bered amongst the best of our Gomic buildings. It
18 one hundred and fourteen feet in length, sixty*
three feet in breadth, thirty-two feet high, to the
roof, and one hun^r^and twenty-two feet to the
i top of the turret* " The body of the church is well
eiilighteqe^ bv twp rows 9f windows, which are
trwiy of jt^e Qoijm order, anc) the 9p9^e$ betw^n
Hl^ )mkf£asm lor t^ auf^port of ^e waA. The
tewef: 10 weH-popartknied, the eonieia of 4t aie mp-
ported by a kmd of buttfess-woik, and at each cor-
ner is a sngiaii tu^et. Th^ piincip^l turret, in the
(Centre, is light and open ; it is $treti|^Qed by but-
tresses, and crowned with a dome, from whence rises
th^ vane. Oliver the sK^uth-east door of the church
is ;^ hef^iiifMl figure of Tin^e, with ^ ^c^^l^e in one.
hand, and an hour-gl^ in Ht^vi gthe^.
Tl^pc^pji^e of tjii? chucph %^worigiMUy in prir
ya|e hm^y t^l it deace94e4 ia one Alemund, a
priest, who granted the s^te (ailber bj$ death, and
. th9t of Hugh, h\$ only $on) to the Dean and Chap-
ter of St. raul>, whereby they became not only
ordinaries
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LOMBOll MX9 KM gUflJWW,
QidiDi^ietof Ibepwith, Uitlik«wi»p pflirvMoftte
vicaF^, firom that time to the prawn.
l¥ei€ are aevefal mdowmtwta Moi^dg to <his
ciMvcii, fw the perferinaBce of divine setvi^ H^
fefeni times in the year, parlkukoij aix awnnjw t*
he preaehed iit Lent, and »gift aannoii oa AS 9«idtif
dqr ; when the donatioiiBs left by setent beaefaneie^
to be given on that day, are dittnbotAl to the foev»
at the dia<^etion of the tiear and obuioh^MieM.
The site of this parish was anciently ar §m^ ef
Boer, and the houaea and ganfem ihefeiipony #ere
aeeooDted a vill^e withoat ihewail et LondoB^ ealM
Mora; which, hi ppoeesa of tioM/ kiereased gV^iifiy
ia numhet of buildings, and wes mealituled a pi^
hood of St. Fanfa cathedral, of that appetiaticw. AtfA
DOW tfaia Tilhge m totaUy swaBowed op by LcMdeA^;
and the prdbendavy of Mora, or Mora #ith6uC the
watt of London, hath the mak stvlft dft the f ighf
sideef the chow, i* St. Paulfa Ctttbedral; df #hMl
it 18 said, Nigellus Medicus was the fiM pH^
besdavy* g*
Fart ef the old watt of the dRy rtsmtim on th«
south and east sides of the cburch-yaitl, betoiigiag
to Ihia parish V particnkvly one of the bastions,
whieh ia efeaa agaiast the htfch part of Blafbarflf-i
ThiacboTch hae receive the ramainsof ae^end
eaihieat wTitersi) ameiig whom may be named Speed,
die celebrated Bnglisb hieteriari and ca^^ogMpher;
Fos, the martyroto^ ; GfaMrer, aii^ tttdefctfjgable an^
tiqoarian, and die MMMrtal Mibkiav whe* weft hMied
ittthesdianeek, aiid wheae feoiaim'were \att\f diace^
▼ewdy in wmimg senMb aileMf ioM^ in* diat peft 6f Che
cherdi^
At die 8Mitk«»t angjie of AftfelMMAlM^
if a Tety hambeoitf meetiag^^Mwe, iKult of^ W^k ;
and
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4 HISTORY ANJp SiniVEY OF
and there is another, equaUy handsome, at the cor*
ner of Coleman-street.
; On . the opposite side of Fore-street is Grub'-street,
<:elebrajted as the residence of unfortunate authors:
In Haiwver-squdre, on the east side of this street,
la: the house formerly occupied by General Monk,
^who.was created Duke of Albemarle, for his services
in restoring King Charles II. Farther to the nort^
is Son-alley, which forms the boundary of the city
on this side.
Proceeding westward, the next street is White-,
cross-street, which is of considerable length; but
this ward only takes in a small part of it. In this
street was an hospital of St. Giles, founded in the
feign of Edward I. but, being a cell to a French pri-
ory, it was suppressed, among other foreign founda-
tions, by Henry V. who soon afterwards re-founded
it, for a domestic fraternity of St Giles, and reserved
the appointment of a custos to himself and his suc-
cessors.
This street, with Grub-street, Golden-lane, and
Chiswell-street, in Cripplegate parish, remained un-
Eaved, until the 35th of Henry VIII. when they were
. ecome almost impassable; in consequence of which
an act of parliament was passed for paving them. .
Opposite to St. Giles's church is Redcross-strc^t,
ft Wide and well-built street, on the east side of
whiohj near the middle, is a library, founded by Da-
niel Williams, D. D, a Presbyterian minister, for the
use of the dissenting ministers of tlie Presbyterian,
Independent, and Baptist persuasions. This gentle-
man, in 171 1) bequeathed his valuable collection c^
books, and nxanuscripts, for this purpose, with a
handsome salary fof a librarian and a housekeeper,
and, in pursuance <>f bis will, a neat building wa$^
erected in R^-cross-street, with a genteel apart-
- ' '■' "• * ' ment
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^
^
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LONDON AKD ITS KNVIROKS. 6
Aent for the librarian, &c. and a room/ capable
<jf contaioing forty thousand volumes. . In this
library is a register, in which dissenters may record
the births of their children.
This foundation, which has been greatly HUg*
mented nnoti^. its first institution, is under the. direc--
tion of twenty-three trustees, viz. fourteen ministers
and nine laymen, who must be all Presbyterians,
under whom th^^ejs a secretary and a steward. Here
are likewise some curiosities; as, an E^yt^tian mummy,
and a glass bason, which held the water wherewith
Queen Elizabeth was baptized. This last is kept in
a bag, whereon is fixed a paper, that explains how
the bason came into the possession of the managers
of the library.
This and Whitecross^street derived their names
from a red and white cross, which stood in Beech*
lane.
On. the north side of the town-ditch, and at the
west end of St. Giles's church-yard, was a pond of
watery fed by a considerable spring; but the. former
being filled up, the latter Was arched over, about the
year i44^, at the expense of Sir Richard Whitting-
ton, and prefixed by the name of Crowder's well,
which still remains, and is worthy the attention of
the curious .antiquary. Crowdei^'sAvell-alley, which
took its name from the well, is now converted into
a handsome modern-built street, called Well-street.
From tlie south end of Redcross-street, runs Jewin-
street, of old time called the Jews' Garden, as being
the only place appointed them, in England, for
the interment of their dead, before the year 1177f
when, after long suit to the king and parliament,
at Oxford, they were permitted to have a place
assigned to them in every quarter where they
dwelt.
This
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6 HtSTORT XVt9 tUltVEV OV
Tim piece of gronnd was i^teined by dud Jeww
till the time of theis total baimhnieDt from £iq(l«Q<l^>
after wbkb k was cmverled into gai^en^plata wd
summer-houses. This place, with the appurleimiiccs^
was aneietitly called Leynestowe, which King £d*
ward I. granted to WilKam de Moste Fort^ i)eaii
erf St .PanFs, London; baing » place (a& it is
esipressed in a record), witb^t Cripplegaite, ioA
tbe suburbs of Londoiiy ealled Leyrestowe, and
whiqh waft the bvrying-place of the Jews of
LondoB; which was Tahied at forty sbiilroga per
annum.
Nearly firontmg the north end of Redcrosv-streety
m former times, ^ood » watch-tower, called Bul'gh-'
Kenning, or Barbican ; a kind of advanced j^oaC foe
Cripptegate. These Bsrbccana were considered of
sudu imiportntee, that the custody of daem was aL*
ways intrusted to some person of consequence in tbe
slate. This tower being granted byEdwatdULto
file Earl of Strffbih, became hfis city resideiiee. It
afterwards descended to Lord Wfttov^hby de Paiw
bam, aod acquired the naane of WiHoi^Ut>y-house.
The name of tbe Barbiean is still preserved ia that
of the street which runs ftoos this spot to Alderagate-'
street*
Ad^joming to tbe Barbican, on the east, was asothtf
stately edifice, called the Garfeer4iouse, wbiek Wa9
erected by Sir Thomas Writhesley, Garter Kii^ at
Arras, uncle to the first £ari of SoutiMmipton. On
4iie top of this buiktine was a efaapel, called by the
name of Santiasimsf Trinitatis in alto. Tbe site is
now occupied by Garter-phtte.
At a diort distance to tbe novth-west is Bridgb^
w^ter-square,, a small, neat quatdvangle, of plain but
handsome houses, with a gras»-plat rad gravel^waHi,
surrounded with iron rails. This square is buikt M
? the
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uOivmL AHD ITS EmriBons. 7
the site of the house and gardens belonging to the
Earb of Bridgewater.
From the east end of Barbican rans Beech-lane,
which Strype conjectures was named from Nicholas
de la Beech, Lieutenant of the Tower of London,
dismissed from that office in the 1 3th of Edward 10.
In this street, a part of the stately laansion-house of
the AUbol of Ramsey, in HuntingdkMMhire, is still
itmaiiiiBg, the rooms wiiereof are very spacious and
lofty ; and, judging by the dimensions of the kitchen,
H must have Men built for the i^e of a numerous
fiunily. In the time of Charles II. this was the re**
sidenc^ of Prihce Bupeit. It afterwards came into
the possession of Sir Drew Drewrie, and obtained
die name of Drewrie-house, and is aow let out in
tenements.
At the north-east end of Beech-lane is a set of
alms-houses, built in the year 1540, pursua^ to the
wiU of Lady Ann Askew, widow of Sir Cbristophec
Askew, Lord Mayor of London, in the year 1533,
fior eight poor widows of the Drapers' companv, with
an allowance of tluree pounds per annum, and half a
chaldron of coals; ivnich endowment was left in
trust to the company of Drapers.
On the south side of Beecn-lane is Glovers'-CQurt,
in which stands Glovers'-hall, a very old building,
which has been some time deserted by the com-
pany, who now transact their business at the George.
and Vulture Tavern, jUunbard-^tr^eet.
CHAP. XXUL
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HISTORY AND SUE VET OF
ClIAP.XXllL
Of Aldersgate IVdrd. — Bounds. — Precincts. — -Principai
Streets. — Aldersgate-street.-^'St. Botolphj Aldersgate.
"^'London- house. — IVestmoreland-liouse Old Ra^^
moon- tavern.^— Shaftesbury - house. ^^Lit tie Britain . -— »
St . Anne^ Aldersg/ate. — St . John- Zachary . — Goldsmitfis*
HalL-^St. Leonard, Foster-lane. — St. Mary, Staining.
Coachmakers' HalL — Bull and Mouth-street. — Liberty
' of St. Martin* s^le^Grand.
Aldersgate Ward takes its name from the
gate, which formerly stood about thirty yards south
of St. Botolph^s church. It is very extensive, and is
divided into Aldersgate-vvard within, and Alders-^
gate-ward without the walls.
It is bounded on the east and north bv Cripple-
gate-ward, on the west by the wards of I^arringdon
within and without, and on the south by that of Far-
ringdon within. It contains eight precincts, four in
each division, and is governed by one alderman,
eight common-council-men, fourteen inquest-men,
eight constables, and two beadles.
The principal streets in this ward are, Aldersgate-
street, Foster-lane, Noble-street, Liitte Britain, and
parts of Goswell-street, Barbican, Long-lane, Jewin-
stceet, &c.
Aldersgate-street, which is long and very spacious;
runs northerly, from the gate to Barbican on the
east side, and to Long-lane on the west.
On the west side of this street, at the south cor-
ner of Little Britain, stands the parish church of St.
Botolph, Aldersgate.
This church received its name from being dedi-
cated to St. Botolph, a Saxon monk, and its vicinity
to the gate. It was anciently a rectory, the patron-
• . * age
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LbNDOM AHD ItS lEKyiROKS. , 9
ftge of which Wts' in the Dean and Canons of St
M9rtinVle-Gf&ttd;,but it continued unappropriat^,
until the year 1399> when Richard U. by his letters
pateat> dated May ike 3l6t, at Pembroke, gave li-
cense to Thomas Stanley, Dean of St. MartinVle-
Grand, to afSpropriate the income, at that time, not
exceeding five marks per annum^ to his collegiate,
church, for the celebration of a perpetual anniver-
sary for his deceased consort Anne, upon the day of
her death, during his life ; but, after his demise, the
anniversary to be solemnized upon his obit for ever.
■hk consequence of this license, the church of St.
Botolph was appropriated to that of St. Martin's-le-
Grand, by a commission firom the Bishop of London,
to his official, the dean and canons being bound
to provide a sufficient maintenance for a chaplain to
serve the cure ; since which time it has continued a
donative or curacy*
When Henry VII. in the year 1593, annexed the
collegiate church of St. Martin's-le-Grarid to the
ccmvent of St. Peter, Westminster, this church also
became subject to that abbey ; but at the suppress*
acm of monasteries was granted, by Henry VIII. to
his new Bishop of Westminster. That bishopric,
however, being dissolved on the accession of Queen
Mary, and the abbot and itionks restored to their
convent, this church reverted to its old masters; and
when the monks were finally expelled, and the con-
vent converted into a collegiate church, by autho-
rity of parliament, in the reign of Queen ^i^abeth,
she granted the curacy to the dean and chapter, who
stdt retain it : Itis^ liowever, subject to the Bishop
and Archdeacon of London, to whom it pays pro-
cnraticHi.
The antiquity of this church may be collected
from the parisif records; from which it appears that
a house, anciently given to the parishioners, was, in
VOL. III. Q the
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to HISTOftY AND «U|tV£T 09
the yetf 1319, demised by tbeiB, upon IcMe, t#*^
Bicfaard Rothing.
It escaped the fire of LoodoDt ia 1666, but be*
^me so Tuinous, that it has beea since r^uilt Ift
is a plain brick edifice, with a wooden tower,
crowned with an opai turret There is one kurge
arched window, at the east end ; but the Ught is
principally derived from sky-lights in the roof.
On the same skie of the street, a little fertfaer to
the north, stood a pakice, that was the residence of
theMarquisof DcHrchester,andafterwards that of Lord
Petre, of whom it was purchased, after the Bestora-
tk)n, for the city mansion of the Bisliq> of London;
from which time it was known by the name of Lon*
don-house. It was a large commodious Mck buildings
and had a neat chapel belonging to it; but bein|^ at
length deserted by the prelates, it was let out mto
several tenements and warehouses. This ancient edi*
fiee was destroyed by fire, since which new buildings
have been erected in its stead; the principal of
which is that occupied by Mr. Seddon, and still
called London-house,
A little to the south of London-house, formerly
stood the fine mansion of the Eails of Westmoreland;
but this being also deserted by ita noble possessors,
was let out in tenen^eftts, and to mechanic uses, and,
at length, became so decayed, that, about forty years
ago, it was entirely taken down: Uie site is now oc-*
cupied by Westmoreland-buildings, and the adjacent
houses.
To the north of London-house is the old build*
ing, formerly the Half-moon Tavern, celebrated
as the place e( resort, of the most noted wits of the
sixteenth century. It is at present let in separate
tenements; but th^ oM- front, ornamented with
foliage and grotesque figures, has sufifered very Uttl^
alteration.
4 On
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r"Tiii|-irr-^«»
_ : Bsi ssssl , »gs ~
^
JijBli&iLEafflJLS
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LON0OH AJib its SHTlBOm. It
On the east tide of tbe street^ neariy opposite to
tiiese buildings, is Shaftesbury, or, as it is sometimea
called^ Thaoet-hbuse. This edifice, which b |>y the
masterly hand of Inigo Jones, is built with hnckt
and ornamented with stone, in a very elegant taste.
Ihe fiont is adorned with Ionic pihnters, from the
▼(dutsa of which hang garlands of foha^ Tbne
pilasters aie doubled on each side of the centre win«
dow» over which is an arched pediment, opaicd for
Ae ieoq>tion of a shield. The door is arcbed, and
fiem each side of it sprines an el^ant scroll, for the
support of a balcony. This structure had been let
cot fixr mechanical uses, and was goioM^ fast to deday^
when, in the year 17^> the London L^ing-in-hospi«
tal wes instituted. The promoters of tbat charity,
havi^ hiied this house, repaired it thoroughly, and
preserved it, for a time, from the fate of its opposite
neighbours. The increase of that institution having
rendered a kurger building necessary, they quitted
ShafteAury^house, in 1771 9 and were succeeded by
the General Dispensary, which still occupies tfaSb
bade part of it. The front is di^ded into tenements,
andlet to raspeelable shopkeepers*
Littie Britain was formerly called Britain, or Bre«
tBgne-atreet, fimn the mansion of the Duke of Bwr
tagne, which stood near St. Botdph's church, but
b^ been many years destroved. This street waa
also the residence of several of our own nobility : th*
Earl of Peterborough's house stood at the Gomer«
when die south part of BarthdomeVs hospital now
stands; and the whole east side of the street was oc*
cu|^ed by a stately mansion, belonging to Lord Mon*
tague ; the name of whith is still pseserved in Mon#
lague^urt. ,
On die north side of St. AnneVlane, within Al«
dersgate, ia the parish church of St. Anne, AU
den^ } i^hicb it to called fiom it» dedication
to
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19 HISTOKT AND SU&YEY OF
St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary, nd itt
situation.
. This church was anciently denominated St. Aime'sy
in the Willows, from the number of trees of Aat 8pe«>
cies growing in its neighbourhood. Its foundatiim
cannot be. traced, but it appears to be of some antU
quity,' by John de Chimerby being collated thereto^
on the ^ of July, 1322. It is a rectory, the pa-f
tronage of which was in the Dean and Canons of
St. MartinVle-Grand, until that church, with its
appurtenances, was annexed to the Abbey of West-
minster ; by virtue of whichr the abbot and convent^
and, after them the Bishop, of Westminster, became
the patrons ; but on the suppression of the Bishopric
of Westminster, Queen Mary grai\ted the advowson
to thelBishop of Lx)ndon, and his auccessora; ia
whom it still remains.
The old churdi shared the common fate in the
great fire of 1666; soon after which, the present
one was erected^in its stead, and the parish of St;
John, Zachary, xmited to it.
' It is a very plain edifice, enlightened by a few
large windows, cased with rustic. The tower is
square, consisting of two stages above the roof, and
crowned with a wooden turret. The body of th<i
church 4s fifty* three feet square; the altitude of the
roof, which is supported by four handsome Corinthian
pillars, is thirty*five feet, and that of the tower and
turret, eighty^four feet.
The parish of St. John, Zachary, is also a rectoty^
the church of which stood at the north-west comer of
Maiden-lane. The patronage of this church appears
to have continued in the Dean and Chapter of St.
Paul's, from its foundation ; for it was rated to pay
an annual sum to the Canons of St. Paul's, as early
as the year 1181, at which time^it was denominated
St; John Baptist's, The site of it is now a cemetery
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^ UOVJ>Off AND ITS ENTIBONS. 13
fiif tli^ use of the pariabioners/ Part of the walls of
the old church is still remaining in the church-yard,
9iid £^uiidatioQ8 of t^e adjacent buildings.
At the nonh-east comer of Foster4ane, standi
the hall bekn^ng to the company of Goldsmiths,
llus. spacious building supplies the place of one
which was originally erected by Drew Berentin^
aboutf the year 1407> but was destroyed by the fire
of London^ It is an irregular structure, built with
brick, md the corners wroi^t in rustic of stone*
The door is lajge, arched, and decorated with Doric
€x>lumns, wMch support a pediment of the arched
Hind, but open for a shield, in which are the*arms
of the company. The hall-room is spacious, . and
both that aad the other rooms are all well enlight-
ened.
In the court-room is a fine portrait of Sir Husk
Myddelton, with the words Pontes Fodincs^ on the
picture to signify his double attention to hismineg
and the NeW Riv^r, Here are also some other good
paintings, particularly a portrait of $ir Martin Bowes,
]ord mayor in 1545, in the costume of his office*
The date on the picture is 1566.
On the west side of Foster-lane stood the paro-
chial church of St. Leonard, Foster-lane, which was
limtided about the year 1S36, by William KirkhanC
Dean of St. MartinV^^-Grand, in the court-yard of
die collegiate church, for the use of the inhabitants
of the sanctuary. It derived its name from its dedi^
cadoQ to a French saint, and its situation was added»
to distinguish it from another church, dedicated to
the same saint, in Eastcheap.
It is a rectory, the patronage of which was an*
ciently in the Dean and Canons of St. MartinVle-
Graiia; in whom it continued till that deanery was
annexed t6 the Abb^y of Westminster ; the dean
and chapter of which still possess itrbut the church
being
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14 HISTOET AND SURVEY Of
being destroyed by the fire of London, and the pa«
rish united to that of Christ-church ^ Newgate^street,
they present alternately with the govemon of St
BartholomewVhospital.
The church of St. Mary Staining, or Stone-church,
before the fire of London, stood on the north side
of Oat-lane. The reason why it received the addi*
tional epithet of Staining, is very uncertain ; some
imagining it to be derived from the Painter-atainere,
who might probably live near it, while oth^^ sup-
pose that it was originally called Stany, or Stony,
from its being built with stone, to distinguish >tfrom
those in the city, built with wood, &c. This church
not being rebuilt after the fire, the parish was united
to that of St. Michael, Wood-street; but, in consi^*
deration of the small endowment of this parislh, it
ivas provided by the act which united them, that the
patrons of St. MichaeFs should present twice in &ree
times.
The advowson of this rectory was anciently in the
prioress and convent of Clerkenwell, in whom it con«
linued till their suppression by Henry VIIL when it
came to the crown, in whom it still I'emains.
The site of this church is now used as a burial-
phce for the parishioners, who hold a jB;eneral vestry,
and have two churchwardens and four overseer*,
thoufi;h there are only forty-seven houses in the
parish.
Near the north end of Noble-street stands a con«
vcnient hall, originally built by the company of Sen-
veners; who, being reduced to low circumstances,
Eold it to the company of CoachmakcrB, to whom it
atill belongs.
Bull and Mouth-street, a small part of which is in
this ward, takes its name from an inn standing in it,
and formerly known by the sign of Boulogne Mouth,
•r Harbour, of which the present appellation is a cor-
ruptioiu
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VOViWm A9JD in EFTIlOHi. U
ruptioii. At tbe corner ci this street, in Aldengate^
ftreet, was the city mansion of tbe Earis of North**
umberlaod. In tbe 7th year of his reign. King
Hemy VL gare this house, with die tenements-there*
unto bekHigiog, to his Queen Jane, and it then ac<»
quired die appellation of her Wardrobe.
St MartinVl^ijhrand, which is considered as a
part ci this ward, is a distinct liberty, subject to the
Uean and Chapter at Westminster. It was or^inaily
a college, founded in the year 700, by Wythred, King
of Kent, but was rebuilt and endowed,about the year
10J6, 1^ a noUe Saxon, named Ingelricus, and bis
l»other £dwardus, for a dean and secular canons, or
priests, and was dedicated to St. Martin: tbe epithet
le Gram^ was afterwards added on account of the
great aod extraordinary privileges, particularly the
dwgerous om of sanctuary, granted to it by different
monarchs*
William the Conqueror confirmed the endow*
ment of this bouse, and the possession of the lands
given by the founders, to which he added all tbe
Sloor4and, without Cripplegate, and freed it and its
cancms from all disturbance and exaction of any bi«
fhops^ archdeacons, or their ministers, and from all
regal services* He likewise granted them sac and
soc, t^ md team, and a Ions et cetera of Saxon li-
bertiea, in the foUest manner that any church in Eng-
land possessed diem. His charter, which bears date
in 1068, and is sanctioned by John and Peter, the
Pope's legates, concludes thus: ** If any person
whatsoever rihall presume to alter any thing hereby
gfanled, let him be punished with Judas, the
traitor.^'
This charter was confirmed by King Henry IIL
who granted the dean <^ the monastery and church
more amj^e privileges. And it was again confirmed
by Edward 1I« with an additional privilege, that no
inhabitant
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inhabitant within this jurisdiction should be Sued
out of their own court) except before the king, or
Ills chief justice.
By the charter of Kine Edward IIL it was ordained
that all inquisitions, to be taken by tiie justices, and
other the ministers of the men of the city of London,
should be taken at Great St. Martin's, in London, and
tkoi elsewhere ; except inquisitions to be taken in
circuits of the Tower of London, and for the gaol
delivery of Newgate. But King Henry VIII* in the
year 1519i revoKed that charter, and removed the
sessions of the peace from St. ^Martin's to GuildhalK
King Henry VI. confirmed the foregoing charters;
but he established certain articles concerning its
sanctuary, in cases of debt, felony, and treason ; by
which it appears, that St. Martin's was, at thdt time,
a sanctuary for great disorders, and a shelter for ti)»
loosest sort of people, such as rogues, ruffians, thieves,
felons, and murderers; and that every excess of vice
and irreligion, fraud, oppression, and breach of the
laws, were exercised within its liberty.
To so great a height of licentiousness was thi»
sanctuary grown, that, in the reign of Heniy VII.
the sheriffs of London venturing to take from thence,
by violence, a person who had been guilty of murder,
the Abbot of Westminster (to whom the deanefy , with
its sanctuary and privileges, had been granted), ex*
hibited a bill to the king against them; upon which
the cause was heard in the Star-chamber, and the
sheriff severely fined.
This place was occasionally the residence of the
kings of £ngland ; as appears fix>m a writ of Edward
I. being dated here on the 30th of October, in the
first year of his reign. And, in the same reign, the
king's court appears to have been held here; for, in
1293, a cause was removed from the Court of Hust-
ings, to be tried before Gilbert de TbornvtUe, and
• • ' other
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^ LOKDON AKD m filHriROKS. 17
Others, at St. Mirffm^s the Gkreat, in London ; and
the custos'atid sh^ffi were commanded to bring tbe
record, and process, and all things pertaining to it»
before them.
The deans were also among the greatest men in
the nation ; for, in the reign m Edward IIL William
Mulse, who held that office, was chief chamberlain
of the Exchequer, and receiver and keeper of the
king's treasure and jewels; and, in die preceding
reign, Petrus de Sabaudia was promoted to the archi*
episcopal see of Lyons, in France.
The church of St. Martin's-le-Grand was anciently
in the donatioik of the king ; as appears by Edward L
baving, in the 8thyearof his re^,grantedthe deanery
to Galfridus de Newband.
In the Bishop of London's Register of old wills,
it is called a parish, and a curfew bell was rung here,
as at Bow-church, St. Gilea's, Cripplegate, and Bark*
ing church, to* give the citizens warning of the time
of night, and to keep within doors.
This coll^;e was surrendered to King Edward YL
in the year 1548, and, in the same year, the college
church was pulled down, and many tenements
erected on its site, which were immediately taken at
high rents, by non-freemen, in consequent^ of being
exempt from the jurisdiction of the city.
In the year 1 58;$, a great number of foreign trades^
men and artificers planted themselves on this spot;
among whom were John James, and Anthony Eme-
rick, subjects of Philip, King of Spain, who were 8ai4
to have been the first silk-twisters, or silk-throwers^
in London, and to have brought that trade into
England.
The street of St. Martin's-le4jrand leads from the
north-east end of Newgate-street, formerly called
Blowbladder-street, from being a place where blad«*
ders were sold, to the spot where Aldersgate stood;
ToiJ.iix, D but
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t8 juwoftv jL¥Si ^3iur£9r pjt
bnt ibe liberty extends Miiy.as -ftr as AigeUrtmot
«uvl BeilrsquMre, iMnr.St Aane'ftJane; thefeottiiider
Jbeing i|i die fiqedom of the^e^. This ptrt of ^
street, with the courts and alleys adjoiniDgt is oonsi*
ideced.asfMit of ihe Ijjboity of W eMimQsfeer» and the
sidiabitaiits an governed, aod vote a€€Dndiogiy» Mid
cany on {their trades, iiiridMWt ibeing free lOf the icit^
fifLondop. IthasdsoBCQurtof iMordvilbinHseit,
Ebj€ct <to dhe Dean and Cbi^pter of Westminalert
lid ieveiy Wednesday, for the trial of M pepsgnai
actions, of what nature soeiser« In this oourt, the
leading poooess is a eapias against the body, or an
4itiaehment againit die goods; so. that a manis goods
inagr be sekaed in his own house, upOQ the iixyt |>rQ»
cesS| if he himself be Qot lakea*
CHAP. XXIV.
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Loiwoir Am iM Bimaom 19
Of f& ft^drdofParringianJP^tlltn. — As /Uerftt^ idere
Utit OfMeni^eletfHVe.'^^miis.—Prednctf.'^Chedp'
side^cross.'^-^St. Peter', JVeHchedp.-^The JjoHg SHop.--^
Embroiderers* HalL^f^,Velk»t\ PMter-hHe.^Ati Mi-
chael Queme.-^'SQUers' iibik-~.fi/. MaHb9m,J!¥idty',
street.— Tke^ Old G/un^di — iS#« AmtHn.^'^^St. Faith.^
'^Newgate-street. '•^Bagnio'Court.'^'-Charles Lst's Gt-
gantic Porter and Dwarf.— Chrisi-ofiurchf Newgate^
street. — GretfFriars.'-^Si: J!ftich6las, Shambles.— St*
Ewen.—^hrist's-hospital.-^M^armck-laile.'>'^Collegeqf
Physicians. '-^Newgate market.-'^PMnier'alley.—'Si*'
PmefsCaiMfnk^'*^Chaptigr-hmise.*^St^. Paul's School.
"-^Stationers' Hall.-'— St. Martin^ Ludgate.'—Blach*
friars^^Apotheea/ries' HaU.
Ttg»yfMfft^i^&n BM thar df FalMngdoil Widiotftr
ifiSMHSSP^KM WiUimil F^endori) CithfM aAd g6ld^
«iidiidfkkoddlft]> whdl'^th hiir Mn Ni<5holte; ^i#ei«
«Ml>fiitft nnr bf dlmtfota, but' by^ puMhM^ or-inheH''
SM!^, air wiU'-a(jpearft(^ the fbH6Wifag abWidet^df tf
d«(Kl^iliid^itf)tten0lgh of King^Edwbrd L
'^*llbM]iif«d€^Aftl^^,«iine add beiietaSif<I<flf
jMMM; Km; gmtited' t&Bxi^ le I^ure, dtizeil
of^LMdQH; oif^of tbd i^rifllbi ih fh« yigir]l977; 8(ff
€lNMi<4CffMfi#; ^Vitb th^appdtt^MKJIf^^ ^tUnlli^
city of London, Bfi& 9\i\Hlib§ dfi the'^tti^,' bftw^ri
tiiidgM^MdN^lv^M^rflndal^' Without' the ddme
dlttirf^ his IMer;' by lHef git^Vff df> th^ Mtd^TlJoma^ dli
ilMeM^' ttf^lMfl^ 8rtfd> t%^h6id^urit6'th^ strM'iUtpKi
mg, therefore, yeerely, to ttttf^sMl^l^eliHiSP^ aftd> li{«
beires^
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so. nmOMY AND 80RTET OF
heires, one clove (or slip) of ^Iliflowers, at the feast
of Easter, for all secular service and custome, with
warrantie unto the said Ralph de Feure, and his heira^
against all people, Christians and Jews, in considera-
tion of twenty markes, which the said Rdph de
Feure did give, before-hand, in name of a gersum,
or fine, to the said Thomas, &c.
Dated the 5th of Edward L
Witnesse, G. de Rokesley, maior.
R. Arrar, one of the sherfffes.
H. Wales,
P. le Taylor,
T. de Bassing,
J. Horn,
N. Blackthorn, alderman of London.*'
After this, John le Feure, son and heir to the sacid
Ralph le Feure, eranted to William Farendon, citi-
zen and goldsmith of London, and to his heirs, the
said aldermanry, with the appurtenances, for the ser-
vice thereunto belonging, in the 7th of Edward L in
the year of Christ, 1S79. This aldermanry descended
to Nicholas Farendon, son to the said William, and
his heirs: which Nicholas Farendon, also a gold-,
smith^^was four times mayor, and lived many yean
after. He made his will in 1 361, which was fi{ity*three;
years after his first being mayor, and was buried- in
St. Peter's church, in Cheap. . So this ward continued.
under the government of William Farendon, and Ni-
cholas, his son, the space of eighty years, and letaios
their name unto this present day.
The first name of this ward was Fori ; and the ad-
dition of within the wall of London, and without the
wall of London, was given to each part^ when the
large possession of the Farendons was divided into
two aldermanries, to be governed by two aldermen^
chosen by the inhabitants.
This
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JjmWM AKJ> ITSKVttBOVB* 31
Thk ward istonnded' 6n the east by Ch^apside
and Caade Baynaid-wards, on the north by Alders^
eate and Cnpplegate^wards, and the hberty of St.
MvtinVle^Ghrandy on the west by. the wand of Far-
ringdon witlKmt, and on thesoudi by <!:;astle Bay-
nard-ward and the river Thaaies.'
It la divided into eighteen precincts, and is go*-
vemed by an alderman, seventeen' common-counctl-
men, nineteen c(Mistabtesi» seventeen inque8t<*nien9!
and two beadles.
We shall b^in the surv^ of this ward i at the east
extremity, which takes in that part of Cheapsifltei '
where formerly stood the great cross.
TliiB was one of the crosses erected by Edward L
in token of his affection for his deceased Queen .£Ii^
n<nr, at every place where her. body rested in its way/
to int^rmcot, in the year 1290. It had, originally,
the statue of the queen, but, falling to decay, was*
lebnilt, in 1442, by John Hath^ley, mayor of the'
dty^ and several of the citizens, when it was orna^
mented with images of the resurrection, the Yirgini.*
Edward the Confessor, and some others. Aft^ the
Beformation, these inn^s gave great offence, and-
were frequendy mutilated; for which reason, the
goddess Diana wais substituted for the Yii^n Mary.
At length, in 1643, the puritanic bigotry of the par-
Ikonent occasioned a resolution for taking down all
cKMea, and demolishing all popish paintings ; and
die destruction of this cross being committed to Sir
Robert Harlow, he went on the service with true
seal, attended by a troop of horse, and two compa-
nies of foot, and executed his orders most effec-
tually.
At the aouih-west comer of Wood-street formerly
stood a church, dedicated to St. Peter, and distin-
guished by the addition of Westeheap, or Wood-
street. It 13 a rectory* the patronage of which was
iinciently
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wmientky In die aU[)otl ancb <a»bmat^oi 9bL AUxtflts ;
ia^wbom id contkiued till- the jn^ppreaBioit o£ thbm.
monaBtery;^. whea Henry VliL. ffitiatod it tt> the Edsk
of Soutfaampton^ it is^ now in the gift of private: pB^'
flonai. Thfr chordu beiagr destlxqi^ by the fin^ in*^
1666, was not rebuilt; aad the pariah was antted to?
thai of St..Matt)iew^ Fridi^^dreet
Blithe yeas 1401i, a iicenae wasgibkUed tothe^^in^-
hsdstants^of thiaipariri}; to erect a^ediedi or ah<^, ba^-
fore their church, in Cheapside, for which th^ wever
tO" pay^. aimualiy,' to the chcHnbcr of ILdndtmv the
sum. of thirty rfiiUin^ s,nd ibur pence; but thifn
ground-rent proving: too high, it wea reduced to thir*'
tefeit^ahillinga and four pence. On die site' of ttiia
buildingvwnich was called the Long. Shop, four ahopai
warn auevwerda erected with nxuns over them:
Westward from Wood*>&itreet,. on the same side iat
GSattei^ane, on: the west side of which, is* Em^*
faroiderers •hally a smalL but very handsome biuld^'
iBg, and conveniently adapted for ther management)
of: the afSaiirs of the. company.
A little farther to the west is Bsster-^kiae; en th ei
eaat^side ofwhich'stands the paroehial chuitdirofTStl^
¥0dast^ alias Eoster^s;
This church, which is a rectory, is sadenominlitedb
from bein^ dedicated tb St VddaM, Bisboip'of Ar^
nm; andtakeaitheadd}tioaal^pelhMk>nj.ei«har£Rmi
the^plaoeof its^tuation, oFti)eft)under^ ambeiktoe;^
The ^rtt mention made of'this'cbutohi^ is^^tbafei Wali^
ten deeLcmdon^ was' presented thetete in: thtif^ yio^
td08;
The pstrona^e of tKist church wa^ aMi<(lntiy']if{4
and continued with the Prior and Convent of Can>
terhmy, till dieyearas^^^ wtieti irwa^^ tnaisfeited
to^theacchbisfaop. It hto bean in him^an^Ms ^90%^
oasaom ever since, and is one* of the thirteei^'pecii^'
IkOT in^^this city,%betonging^tt> the^^aehiepisoopakigiw.
9 Though
-p-
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JMSDOr AlED-m KNmGWIltS. SS
-Tfaongli this chnich \fas not eirti«iy<deatiiiyed fsy
die diettdftil conflagralaon in 1666, yet itTOceived
^eiy conaderable oMuge; and was «ftevwaidi la-
paioed^ ^r ^die meat pasftj oipon the cAd vaih. The
^ieepLe «lood till the year 169A, wfaeD it was Ibiiad
ia fiuoh a weak cooditiai^ that the ponabiooeDi had
it taiaen dcmn and sebiitlt, at their own charge, en«
tinly af atone. It is six^-nine feet ioog, fi%Hooe
/e^broad, and thirly-six feet high, to the 0O0C; aad
is 'well enlightened by a range of vindoura^ pkoed
iso high, that the doers open under llievi.
Tne neglected tower of Itiis church is one cf Sir
Christopher Wren's happiest efforts, and deserves
that admiration which is due Id success in « difficult
lusdwtakinff. The author of the Critical Review of
ilfae Pubhc Buildings, says, *^ It is not a glaring pile,
4faat aliikes tiae eye, at the ficst view, with sn ideaef
.gnuideiir and magnificence, but then tlie beautiftil
fsyiaaiid it forms, and the just and weii-piopoitioned
simplicity of all its parts, satisfy the mind so effi^tn-
aHy, that nothing seems to be wanting, and nothing
ean be spared/^
After the fire of London, the parish of St Michael
Qttenie was annexed to that of St. ^edast. The .
latter is a rectory, the church of which stood at die
wast end of Cheapside, fronting the street; but, not
being rebuilt, its site was laid into the street, in pur-
fuanoe of the act for rebuilding the city.
The easiest account we find of this chnrch, is in
the year 1181, when the state thereof was returned
to the De»yi and Chl^pter of St. Foul's; at which time
k appeals to have beea only a chapel, and as such
it centtnrued many years after. It was not made a
rectonr, till possessed by Thomas Newton, who waa
buried in <i)e choir, in the year 1461. In ancient
records it is caHed St, Mi<ihael ad Bladum, i. e. at
the Cora (which posterity has conrupdy pronounced
Queme);
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34 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
Queme); because, at the time this church was
founded, there was a corn-market, that reached up
from it, westward, to the shambles, or flesh*market ;
from which situation it was sometimes called St.
Michael de Macello. At the east end of this church
stood the Old Cross, in Westcheap, which was taken
down in the year 1320, to make way for the en-
larging of the church, and for the erection of a lit-
tle conduit, at the north-east gate of St. Paul's
church-yard ; which appears to have been the stand-
ard where Walter Staple ton, Bishop of Exeter, and
Treasurer to Edward IL was decollated by the po-
-^ulace, in 1326.
At the south-east angle of Foster-lane, and fronting
towards :Cheapside, stands Sadlers'-hall. This is a
very neat building, the inside of which i& adonied
with fret-work wainscoting, and, though small, ex-
ceeds many others, both in beauty and convenience^
It is situated in a small court, with a handsome gate
to the street.
On the south side of Cheapside is Friday-street,
at the north end of which stands the parish church
of St. Matthew, Friday-street ; which owes its name
to its dedication to St. Matthew the Evangelist, an4
ks situation.
The patronage of this church, which is a jectDi^i^
was in the Abbot and Convent of Westminitter^ titt
their suppression, when, the conventual church be*
ing converted into a cathedral, Henry VIIL confer-
.red it upon the bishop. But the new bishc^iric being
dissolved soon after, Edward VI. in the year 1551,
granted the advowson of this church to the Bishop of
London and his suQeessonn in whom it still con*
tinues:
The old church was destroyed by the fire of Lou**
don, and the present structure erected upon its
ruins. It is a plain stQue building, mtk osie aeries
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LOKDON AND ITS ENVIROITS. ^5
of large arched windows ", and at the east end is the
steeple, which ccnisiats of a square brick tower,
ivholly devoid of ornament. 1 he length of this
church is sixty feet, its breadth thirty-three feet, the
height of the rooi thirty-one feet, and that of the
tower seventy-four feet.
Farther to the west, on the same side, is the street
called the Old Change, from the King's Exchange,
or office for receiving bullion in exchange for coin,
standing there. It was fanned to the citizens of
London, who received the old coining irons, and de*
livered new ones to all the mints in England.
At the comer of this street, and Watiine-street,
stands the parish church of St. Austin, called, in
old records, Ecclesh Sancti Augustim ad partum^
because it stood near the gate leading out of Wat-
ling-street into St. PauPs church-yard.
It is a rectory, the patronage of which appears to
have been always in the Dean and Chapiter of St.
Paul's; for it is mentioned in their books, in the
year 1181, when Ralph de Diceto was dean.
The old church was destroyed by the fire of Lon-
don, on the ruins of which the present edifice was
erected. It 'is a substantial structure, built with
stone, and well pewed and wainscoted within : the
pulpit is finely embeUished, and the altar-piece is
spacious and beautiful, with a very handsome pedi-
ment in the front, supported by pillars, in imitation
of porphyry, and on the top of the pediment are the
king's arms.
The length of this church is fifly-one feet, the
breadth forty-five feet, the height of the roof thirty
feet, and that of the steeple, one hundred and forty*
five feet.
After the fire of London, this church was made
parochial for the parish of St. Austin and that of
St Faith, which was united to it.
VOL, III, E The
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86 BISTORY AND WRVBY OF
The church of St. Faith was ofigifially a distinct
building from St. Paul's, at the east end of it, bu4
was demolished between the yealrs 1951 aud 1S5&,
to make way for the enlargement of that csfthedrai ;
end 'm lieu of it, a place of worship was given, to the
parishioners, in the cryptis (corruptly, toe crowds)^
or western part of. the vaults under the choir of the
cathedral, which, being dedicated to St. Faith, ao*
quired the appellation of Ecclesia Sanctas Fidei in
tryptie. Here the inhabitants continued to perform
their religious duties, until the year 1551, when the
chapel of Jesus, at the east end of the vault was supr
pressed, which being much larger, and better en-
lightened^ they were permitted to remove into it«
and continued to occupy it until the cathedral was
destroyed by the fire in 1666; after which, this pa-
rish being united to St. Austin^s, the parishioners
were no longer in want of a church. It is a rectory,
and one of the peculiars belonging to the Dedn aad
Chapter of St. Paul's^ where they are both patrons
and ordinaries.
Part of the church-yard belonging to St Faith's
parish was taken to enlarge the street at the east end
of St. Paul's church- yard, and the remainder lies
within the inclosore, and serves for a burying-place
for the parishioners of St. Faith.
Leaving the eastern extremity of this ward, we
pass from the north-west comer of Cheapside inlQ
Newg«ite*street; which took its name from the gat«
formerly standing at the west end of it.
On the north side, of it is Bagnio<-court, which
took its name from a bagnio situated in it, and th4
fk^ miDroduced into this capital.
In the front of a house, at the entrance of BiJK
head-court, is a small sculpture in stone^ of WilKam
Evans ^nd Geofiry Hudson : the forager thd gigantic
porter of Charles I« wtiose stature Iraa seven feet
and
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lilWllOK AKD lis EinriAoics. S7
«Ad a half; the Mter, dwarf to the iane monarch,
wid ottfy fintee feet nine iachqs in height.
Farther to the weat,<m die same aide, is a passage
^rlHch leads to Christ-K^hurch, Newgate-s^eet.
This church is dedicated to the name and honour
cif our Saviour, and originally belcmged to the con*
vent of Grey^Here, or Francisoans, hut feUing to- the
cFO%vn, at the dissolution of that religious house,
Henry ¥Ifl. g^e it to -the mayor, commonalty, and
oitifleBs of London, to make a parish church, in liea
of the two churches of St. Ewen, in Newgate<>nMir-
iiet, «ear the north comer of Ekjeness, now called
Warwick-lane, and of St. Nicholas, in the Shambles^
<Mi the north aide of Newmte ; 'both which churohes,
and their parishes were mereupon demolished, an4
as iflfiuch of St. Sepulchre's parish as laid within Nervr^
gate, was added to this new-erected parish, which
was then ordered to be called by the name of Christ-
•church ; irora which time it was made a yioarage,
in the patronage of the mayor, commonalfy, and ci^
tiMns of (xHidon, as governors of the hospital of St.
Bifftholomew, also of the foundation of Heniy Vill.
King Henry VIH. gave five hundred marks pet
annum, in land, for ever, for the maintenance of the
said chureh, with divine service, repairs, fee. la
consideration whereof, the -mayor, commonalty, and
eitissens, did covenant and^rant (inter alia), to "find
and sustain one preacher at this church, who was to
be, -from time totime, vicar thereof; giving unto him,
yearly, ^or his stipend, sixteen pounds thirteen shil-
lings and four pence, to the visitor (now called the
Ordinary of Newgate) ten pounds, and to the other
^ve priests in Christ-church, all to be helping in di-
vine setvice, ministering the sacraments and sa-
ennnentals, eij^t pounds a-piece; to two clerks,
six pounds each; and to a sexton, four pounds
yearly.
The
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Sa HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
The old church was destroyed by the fire of Lou*
don, after which the present structure was erected.
It is built of stone, very strong, spacious, and band-
some. The tower is square, and of a considerable
height, crowned with a light handsome turret,
adorned with vase». The inside ^ neatly orna«i
mented, the walls and pillars are wainscoted, and
tbeie are very large galleries at the west end, and
on the north and south sides. On the south side of
the church without, has been lately erected a plain
but neat brick building, to be used as a vestry-room*
for the better convenience of the ministers who offi-
ciate in the church.
After the fire of London, the parish of Sjb. Leonard,
Foster-lane, whose church was destroyed, and not
Tebuil^ was annexed to Christ-church; and the pa*
tron^e of the former, which is a rectory, being in
the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, they, and
the governors of St. BartholomewVhospital, present
alternately to these united livings.
The Grey Friars were friais minors of a religious
order, or society, founded by St. Francis, of Assisi,
who was canonized by Pope Gregory IX. in 1298 ;
of whom a detached body of nine brethren, viz. five
priesjts and four lay brothers, was sent from Italy to
settle and propagate their order in England. They
arrived at Dover in 1234, from whence four of them
repaired to London, and the other five settled at Can*
terbury. Those who came to I^ondon, were received
and entertained by the Friars-preachejrs, at their
house, in Hplborn ; from whence they removed to
a house in Comhill, provided for them by John Tra-
vers, wherein they continued for about a year; but
being much straitened for room, in consequence of
the great increase of their numbers, John Iwyn, a
physician and citizen of London, who afterwards be*
came a lay brother among them, granted all his land
and
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MNDOy ▲NI>/ITS £MVIfU>MS. S9
' and hou8e9f in the parish of St. Nicbolas, Shambles^
to the mayor and commonalty of London, for the
purpose of providing them with a spot of ground,
whereon a building for their use mi^ht be erected.
A site being thus procured, which was consider*
ably enlarged by the additional benefactions of the
mayor and commonalty, as well as by the munifi-
cence of private citixns, divers of the principal in-
habitants of the city, began, in the year 1336, to
erect, at their own expense, a house and chapel, fof
the better accommodation of these friars. But their
numbers continuing to increase, the chapel became
too small for the celebration of the divine officG&^
wherefore, Margaret, consort to King Edward I. be*
gan a stately and very spacious church, which was
twenty-one years in building, and, in dimensions,
exceeded all the places of worship in this city, except
die cathedral ; it being no less than three hundred
feet in length, eiehty-nine in breadth, and sixty-four
feet in height. This magnificent structure, which
extended from Butcher-hall-lane to Grey Friars*-
gateway, was erected at the charge of Queen Mar*
garet and the two sdcceeding queens, and of the no-
bility and citizens of London.
Ajnong other bene&ctors to this convent, was Sir
lUcfaard Whitthigton, who, at his own expense,
erected a library, one hundred and twenty-nine feet
long, and thirty-one broad, and furnished it with
good store of books.
Weaver, in his Funeral Monuments, informs us^
that here were buried four queens, four duchesses,
four countesses, one duke, two earls, eight barons,
and thirty-five knights; and, in all, six hundred and
sixty-three persons of quality were here interred, be-
fore the dissolution of the convent. In the choir
were nine tombs oi alabaster and marble, inclosed
with iron bars. One tomb, in the body of the church,
2 coped
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C!Dped tvith iron ; and one hundred and forty marble
«rav«*6tone<§, m divers places; all wfeicb were pulled
down, fiemoved, and sold, by 'Sr Martin Bowes, lord
iiiay<M'of Lond&B, in 1545, for fifty pounds.
The churcfh of St. Nicholas, Shambles, which was
pulled down when Christ^ohurdi was erected, took
its name ffom its dedication to St. Nicholas, and its
additional epithet 'fiom its situation ; Ihe Shambles
having been the ancient name <j( Newgate-street,
from the flesfa-mat^ket therein. It stood at the cortier
of Butcher-hall-*Iane. That of St. Ewen, or Owen,
was on the south side of Newgate-streel, between
Ae market and Warwick-lane; the remains of which
were veiy lately existing in the <sellaars of the houses
on that spot.
Adjoining lo this church, at the north-west cor-
ner, 4s ChristVhospital.
This is a Toyal foundation, for the maintenance
and education of poor and fa^erless children, to be
virtuously brought up, and -fitted for trades. It was
originally gran^ to the city, by 'Henry VIM. in fte
year 1537, and conifirmed m 1552, by charter <tfEd^
ward VI. who also endowed <he hospital with cer-
tain lands and tenements, belonging to the Savoy, of
the yearly value of six hundred pounds; whiOh so
Animated (he citizens, that, on the 96th of July,
1552, they began to fit up the bte Grey Friars* mo*
nastery. Tor the reception of poor orphans, «id pro*
. secuted the work with such zeal atid dkcrity, thati
mi the 23d of November, in the same year, three
hundred and forty boys were admitted ; which num*
ber was increased, by the end of the^ear, to three
hundred and eighty. Almost the last action df this
young king's life, was granting permission to the go-
vernors of this hospital to purchase lands in mort-
main, to the value of four thousand marks pet
annum.
This
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LONBOlf klXJ> ITS £NViBOV«. 91
This hmdaUe foundfttidi of Kiog Edward VI* was
gieatly incKeased by th^ beu^af^tions of his subjects,
^f WJJiiaiKi Chester, knt. and aldermaD, and John
Catthrop, dtiseo aad draperi built the brick walls on
the side next to St. BartholomewVbospital, and
arched over the town^itch, from Aldersgate to
Newgate, as being offensive to the hoi^ital.
Id the year 16739 King Charles II. added a ma-
thematical school, and a ward to the hospital, for
the instructkm of forty boys in navigation, and en-
dowed it, for seven years, with one thousand pounds
per amium,.to be paid out of the Exchequer. Tea
of these boys are put apprentice, every year, to mas«
ters of ships, and ten others, of the best genius, are
elected to supply their places. But, lest this mathe*
matical school should fail, for want of boys prc^rly
qualified to supply it, one Mr. Stone, a governor, left
a legacy, to maintain a subordinate mathematical
school, of twelve boys; which is called Stone's
School, where they are prepared for reception into
the KingVward.
All tbe boys in the hospitalNare publicly examined
twice a year, before the governors, assisted by the
faead-Hiaster of St. Paul's-schooli and other proper
exafflifters. The mathematical boys are presentt^d to
the king every New-year's-day, when they carry
some of their mathematical productioas with them,
as evidences of their proficiency. They are also pre«>
sented once a year to the lord chancellor, the lords of
the treasury, and the lords of the admimlty, sepa-
rately. ^ from four to six of these boys pass au exa-
nuaation every half year, before th^ eider brethr-on of
the Tnai^-house, pievious to their being put to
sea. . ....
The fMunbei' of c^ldveii ib this hospital at one
time has oiften amounted lo mote than one thousand*
ilieif 4reaa wnsisto cf ak)t)^ owt of bi^ oloth bang*
ing
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59 HISTORY AND SURTEY OF
ing loose to their heels, girt about their waist with
a red leather girdje, buckled; a loose petticoat un-
derneath, of yellow cloth (of late years the boys are
allowed breeches), a round thrum cap, tied with a
band, yellow stockings, and black low-heeled shoes.
The boys in the mathematical school, as a badge of
distinction, wear on the breasts of their coats a plate
of silver, with an emblematical device on it, the dye of
which is kept in the Tower, where they are all
stamped. The principal figures on this plate are,
Arithmetic, with a scroll of accounts in one hand,
end h^ other hand placed on a blue-coat boy^s head.
Geometry, with a triangle in her hand. And Astro-
tiomy, with a quadrant in one hand, and a sphere in
the other. Round the plate is the following inscrip-
tion: Auspicio Caroli Secundi Regis, 1673. This
badge they retain during their apprenticeship, as a
security against their being pressed Into the king's
service in times of war.
There is also another mathematical school for
thirty-seven boys, founded by Mr. Travers.
The children are received into this hospital at
seven years of age, and those who have not already
been taught to read are sent down to Hertford ; at
which place there is a school and proper instructors
to prepare them for being sent to the hospital in Lon-
don ; where they are received as room is made for
their admission by the eldest boys being bound out
apprentices. The girls are also all sent to Hertford,
where they receive the whole of their education.
The principal buildings of this hospital form the
four sides of a large area, which have porticoes con-
tinued round them. These have Gothic arches, and
the walla are supported by abutments, being the re-
maining cloister of the old priory. This part was re-
paired by the direction or Sir Christopher Wren,
and serves for a thoroughfare as well as a place df
recreation
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIBONS. 33
recreation for the boys, especially in rainy wea-
ther.
The exterior view of the hospital is very irregular;
the several parts haying been erected at difierent
times, and being theretbre a mixture of the Gothic
and modem styles of building.
The- great hall was built at the expense of Sir
John Frederick, Alderman of London ; and here the
boys occasionally dine and sup. On the western
side of this room is a laige picture, by Verrio, who
has introduced his own portrait, in a long wig, re-
presenting King James II. sitting with his nobles, the
governors, &c. with the half figures of King Edward
VI. and Charles 11. hanging as pictures in the same
piece. Beyond this is a very handsome picture of
King Charles II. at full length, dressed in his royal
rob^, painted by Leiy in 1662. At the other end
of the hall is a laige piece representing King Edward
VI. delivering the charter to the lord mayor, who,
with the aldermen behind him, are kneeling ; the
young king is accompanied by Bishop Ridley and
several others standing about him. In this hall is a
good organ that is played when the boys sing their
psalms or anthems on Sundays and other special
days.
In the court-room are portraits of Edward VI. and
the chief benefactors to the hospital. That of the
kins; is a capital picture/ and indisputably one of
Holbein's best productions.
The records and other papers belondng to this
hospital are kept in a room, all the walls of which
are stone: among them is a curious piece of anti*
quity, being the earliest record of the charity, and
coot^ining the anthem sung by the first chil^re^t
very beautifully illuminated.
There are eight wards in the hospital, eauA. of
which contains upwards of fifty beds for the children.
VOL. III. F There
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34. KUTQBY A^P SIEIBVXY OF
Tbei^ 19 algQ another €pnyeni<pnt war^ set apprt.
for the side, to which they are removed, and due
care takep of them. This wsird is a<;cominodated
with a (kitchen, a copsultatioD chfimber, wd other
cjinyenieDjt offices.
The writing-school is a peat edifice, sup|)!prt€xl.
on pillais, and built with brick ^d stone, in the
yefur 1694, at the ^nd of th^ gr?at hall. It ^jras
fpunded by Sir John l^oore, o|ie of the aldermen of
th0 city, and president of the hous^, whom it is s^id
to hf^ye cost ^ve thousand pounds and coQtaimi
Ipug writing-hoanfe sufl^cient fqr the use of five
hundred boys. At the upper epd of the room is a
Qiche, m which was formerly the statue that is now
placed on the outside of the schopl, under which is
the following inscription :
Anno Dom. 1694.
** Tl^is writip^-school, and stately building, was
begun, and completely finbbed, at the sole
charge of Sir John Afoore, K^t. and Lord
Mayor of the city, iij the year MDCLXXXI.
now president ^f this house, he having beeii
otherwise a liberal benefactor of the same.''
' The namviar school is situated on the north side
ff th^ hospital, near the passage into Little-Britain.
It was erected in the y^r 1793^ and is whoUy of
brick, except the omamei^tal parts, which are stone.
. Over the south gate that leads into the cloisters,
is a statue of King Edward VL now much mutilated,
beneath which is writtei», in letters of gold, the foU
k>win§ iascriptioD:
** Edward the Sixth of famous memcHry, King of
England, was the founder of Christ's Hospital^
and Sir. Robert Clayton, JS^nt. and Alderman^
' * some
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U>!Cb09 AKD its EKTIBONlt iS
some time lord mayor of tfab city of l!<ondoD»
erected this statue of King Edward, abd buitl
most part of this iabrick, Anno Dom. 1682*'
It is only from the passage leading to this gatet
and the backs of the houses in Newgate-street, that
the principal, or south firont of the hospital can be
seen. It is a handsome piece of brick-work, (XTia-
mented with pilasters of the Ionic onler, and having
a circular pediment in the centre.
On the east side of the building, opposite to the
counting-house, is a much more perfect statue of
Edward VI. standing on a slab of black marble, in
the attitude of delivering the charter. Aiid in the
niche, over the western entrance from the Grey
l^ars, is a statue of Charles 11. in the royal robes.
One of the boys is annually sent to Cambridge
to be educated for the chUrch; and every third year
one is also sent to Oxford.
The children are chosen into this hospital every
Easter, and each governor has the privilege of pre-
senting an unqualified child, that is the child of a
non-freeman, whose parents are alive, at every' third
turn of presentation.
The number of the governors is unlimited : bene-
factors of four hundred pounds or upwards being as-
sociated with the lord mayor and citizens who are
governors by the chatter.
The permanent funds of this charity consist in
an annual revenue in houses and lands ; the licens-
ing and looking after the carts allowed by the city,
each of which pays a certain sum for sealing ; and a
duty paid upon every piece of cloth brought to
Blackwell-hall.
It is computed that the atmual expenditure of this
hospital amounts to thirty thousand pounds per an-
pum, including the board and clothing' of the
children
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36" HISTORY AND SUKVEY OF
children and the salaries to the officers and servants
of the foundation.
A plan is in agitation for rebuilding this institu-
tion, and a subscription has been already commenced
foi* that purpose.
Opposite to the south-west entrance in to this hospi*
tal, on the south side of Newgate-street, is Warwick,
lane, which derives its name from the inn or house of
Hichard Nevil, the king-making Earl of Warwick.
Speaking of his coming to London to the convention of
145 8, Stow says, he was accompanied by " six hundred
men, all in red jackets imbroidered with ragged
staves, before and behind, and was lodged in War-
wicke-lane : in whose house there was often six
oxen eaten at a breakfast, and every taverne was
full of hismeate, forhee that had anie acquaintance
in that house, might have there so much of sodden
and rost meate, as he could pricke and ciirry upon a
long dagger/* The memory of this earl is still pre^.
served by a stone status in front of the hou^e at the
west corner in Newgate-street.
Qn the west side of this lane, near the north end,
b the College of Physicians.
This is a very noble structure built with brick and
stone, the entrance to which is through a grand oc-
tangular porch, crowned with a dome that finishes ii|
a cone. The inside was designed by Sir Christopher
Wren, and is very elegant and well enUghtened.
The central building, which contains the library and
other rooms of state and convenience, was the design
of Inigo Jones. The ascent to the door is by a flight
of steps, and in the under part is a basement stoiy.
The whole front i$ decorated with pilasters of
, Ionic and Corinthian orders. In the center over the
door-case, is the .statue of King Charles II. placed in
a niche; and directly opposite, on the inner front of
the octangular porch, stands that of Sir John Cutler,
Th«
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LONDON AND ITS J^NVIRONS. 37
The buildings that compose the two sides of the
court, are uniform, and have the window-cases htod*
somely ornamented. The orders are well executed,
and the whole edifice is both beautiful and commo*
dious.
1 he different apartments beloi^ing to this college,
consist of a committee-room, a library furnished with
books, by Sir Theodore Mayerne, and the Marquis
of Dorchester, a great hall for the quarterly meetings
of the doctors ; a theatre for anatomical dissections ;
a preparing-room, where are thirteen tables, contain-
ing all the muscles in the human body; and, over
all, there are garrets, to dry the herbs for the use of
the dispensary. In the hall are the p^Ktraits of se^
veral of the most eminent of the faculty ; among
which are those of Sir Theodore Alayerne, physiciao
to James I. and Charles L Harvey, who discovered
the circulation of the blood; Sir Edmund King^ the
transfuser of blood from one animal to another; Sy*-
denham, who first introduced the cool regimen in
the small-pox ; and the celebrated anatomist, Yeua^^
iius. The latter is a very good portrait on wood, by
Calkar. Here are also busts of Hervey, Sydenham^
and Mead.
This society's first college, which was given them
by Dr. Linacre, physician to King Henry VIII. was
in Knightrider-street. . They afterwards removed to
a house, which they purchased in A men-corner,
where Dr. Harvey built a library and a public hall,
which he granted for ever to the college, and en*
dowed it with his estate, which he resigned to them
in his life-time. Part of this estate is assigned for
^n annual oration in commemoration of their benefac*
tor, and to provide a good dinner for the societ}'.
This building perished in the flames, in 1666; after
which the present edifice was erected on a piece of
grov^d purchased by th^ fellows,
A little
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38 HISTORY AND SURVEY OP
A little to the east of Warwick-lane is the entrance
into Newgate-market.
This market is kept on a commodious square piec«
of ground, measuring one hundred and ninety-four
feet from ea^t to west, and one hundred and forty-
eight feet from north to south, with a large market-
house in the centre. Under the market-house are
vaults, or cellars, and the upper part of it is princi-
pially used as warehouses for fruiterers and gardeners*
The shops within this building are for the sale of
tripe, butter, eggs, &c. The houses that extend on
each of the sides, which form the square, are most
of them occupied by butchers; and the avenues that
lead to the market, from Paternoster-row and Ne\*''-
gate-street^ are occupied by poulterers, fishmong-
ers, &c»
Before the fire of London, this market \Vas held
in Newgate-street, where there was a market-house
for meal, and a middle row ofshe'ds, which were afteri
wards converted into houses, inhabited by butchers;
tripe-sdiers, &c. while the country peopte, Avho
brought provisions to the city, were forced to stand
with their stalls in the open street, wheref their persons
and goods were exposed to danger, by the passage of
coaches, carts, and cattle, that passed through the
streets. At that time, Butcher-hall-lane was filled
with slaughter-houses for the use of this market;
and Blowbladder-street was rendered remarkable by
blown bladders hanging in *the windows of the shops
where bladders were sold.
Farther to the eeist is Pannier-Galley, the north end
pf'Which almost faces St. MartinVle-Grand. In this
alley is a stone pedestal, supporting a pannier, with
yi'flgure of a boy upon it, and this inscription :
When you have sought the city round.
Yet still this is the higliest ground.
Returning
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luONDON AND ITS ENV|EOK8. $9
Returning a little to the west, 6^ the %80uth side
of Paternoster-row, is Canop-alley, which leads into
St. Paul's church-yard, in the centre of which is si-
tua^^ pa^edral church of St. Paul.
"Ice has heen generally supposed to have
jTed in the place where anciently stood a
'icated by the Romans to the goddess
I jgpiinion derived from the tradition of the
K the horns of deer, and the tusks of
: oeen commonly dug up there; but ^
A^i;^, iq clearing the fouiylatioiis gf
j^tructure, found none of these, he justly
I tbe« opinion; and his son, in his Parei^ta-
m a di^erent account of the origin of the
Itieman observes, that the first cathedral
i see of London, was built in the area,
^n the Roman Pnstorian camp, and in
on which all the succeeding fabrips
\1iukt this structure was denu)lish€d during
the g||ea||| f|wl* general persecution uiii4er. the £mperor
DiodMw^ 'I'his persecution was, however, short :
thecki}|npb is supposed to have been re-edified under
CoBstqy^liae ; but it was afterwards destroyed by the
PagaiiwSnons, apd restored again upon the old foun-
dations, when tb^y embmced phristianity in the se-.
venth century, when Sebert, King of Evsex, ad-
vanpfi4 Mellitus to the bishopric of London.
Is^fi^iy we find Erkenwald the fourth Bishopof Lon-*
don fe^ Mellitus, expending great sums of money in
rep^ngand beautifying the ancient edifice, augment-
ing Its rev^ues, and procuring for it the most con*
sidbnible privileges from the pope and the Saxqn
prioces then reigning : for these works the bishop
was canonized at his death, and his body placed in %
glorious shrine above the high altar in the east part
of the church, where this shrine remained the ad^
miration
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♦d tttStORV AND SURVEY OP
miration of succeeding ages, liU the fatal destruction
of the whole febric by fire.
■ This catastrophe happened in the year §61 ; and,
as it \yas rebuilt in the same year, it is highly proba-
ble, that these early structures, how magnificent
soever they niight then be thought, were only small
wooden buildings.
During the Saxon heptarchy, this church flourish-
ed extremely ; Kenrad, King of Mei cia, declared it
as free in all its rights, as he himself desired to be at
the day of judgment ; Athelstan endowed it with
fifteen lordships ; Edgar, with two ; and Egleflede
his wife, with two more ; all which were confirmed
by the charters of Ethelred and Canute, which
solemnly imprecate curses on all who dare to
violate it.
The next benefactor to this church was Edward
the Confessor; but, at the Norman invasion, which
soon followed, some of its revenues were seized by
the conqueror : however, he was no sooner seated on
the throne, than he caused full restitution to be
made; and even confirmed all its rights, privileges,
and immunities, in the amplest manner; with bene-
dictions upon those who should augment its posses-
sions, and solemn imprecations upon all who should
violate any of the chartere made in its favour.
In that reign, a dreadful fire consumed it a second
time, and by this conflagration, which happened in
1086, the greatest part of the city was "also laid in
ashes: but this destruction served to make way for a
more magnificent building than had ever yet been
applied to the purposes of devotion in this kingdom.
Maurice, then Bishop of I^ndon, having undertaken
this great work, obtained of the king the old stones of
a spacious castle in the neighbourhood, called the
Palatine Tower, situated near the river Fleet; but
though he lived twenty years, and prosecuted the
:i work
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LOKDON AND ITS ENVIRON^. 41
work wiHi uncommon earnestness, yet he left the"
completion of what he had begun to succeeding ge-
nerations.
The successor of this bishop followed his eitample,
and even applied the whole revenue of his see towards'-
the advancement of this great work, but, like the
former, left it unfinished ; after which it is supposed
to have been completed by kty persons; but at what
time, or in what manner, is no where mentioned.
Indeed, William Rufus, who succeeded the Con*
queror, is said to have exempted all ships entering
the river Fleet with stone, or other materials, for the
new cathedral, firom toll and custom ; and it is not
improbable, that he might take this structure under
bis own particular direction.
But, notwithstanding the length of time, and the
great expense bestowed upon this church, it had not'
long been completed, when it Was thought not suffi-
ciently magnificent; the steeple was therefore rebuilt '
and finished about the year 1331 ; and then Roger
Niger, being promoted to the see of London, in 1329i '
proceeding with the choir, completed it in 1340, and
solemnly consecrated it afredh, the same year, in the
presence of the king, the Pope's legate, and many
lords both spiritual and temporal.
The spacious and magnificent edifice of St, Paul's
cathedral, being thus finished, a survey was taken of
it, by which its dimensions appear to have been as
foltows. The length of the body of the church was
six hundred and ninety ieet, the breadth one hundredi .
and thirty, the height of the roof of the west part,
within, one hundred and two feet, that of the east
eighty-height, and that of the body one hundred and
fifty; the height of the tower, firom the ground, was
two hundred and sixty feet; firo«i whence arose a '
wooden spire, covered with lead, two hundred apd
seventy-four feet in length; on the top of which was
vorl.iii. Q a ball)
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44 I^KTOflY A^p «9^V£lf QW
H ball> iiiHe fw% obq. ioch i^ cir<;^lAferenoe. This»
wa9 crowned with a cios$, that was fifteen feet in
length, and the traverse six feet*
The ornajneots of this cathedrc^l exceeded tho^fB of
^very. other church in the kingdom. The high, altw
sjtQod betweefi tw.o qolumn^ adorned with precious,
e^QQes, and surrounded with imagcas nxosA beaubfuHy
Y/rought, a,Dd covered w(ith. a canopy of wood, cgri-.
o^siy pf^ioted^ witji tl)c representation of saints. aMdb
iher new serine of St Erjceuw^ld stood on the
east side of the wail above tb^ high ajtar, and. w«^.
adpri^ed Avith gold, silver, and precious. stones; but.
npi bfing thought sufficiently rich, in 1339* tbcee.
goldsmiths of London were retain/ed by the d^ai^.aud;
chapter to work upon it a wbolje ye^i:, at the eod:Of
ifhich. its lustre w,a^ s^ great, that prioces, nobles^^
i^mbasi^^rs, and other £c>i:eigner^ of rank, flacked
ftjOOQ, ajl parts, to. visit it, and to offer their oblar
tipns before it: among these we find all the rjogs
aud jewels of Walter de l'horp» and the besiL
sjipphire 9tone of Richfird de Preston; which last
\va^ applied to the curing of infirmities of the eye»f
and proclamation of its virtues, was made by theoxr
press will of the donor.
The p^:tufe.of St. Paul, finely psiinted^ was^ placed
11^ a. wooden tabernacle, on die right side of the
Ivght altar, anfcl< was esteemed; a. masterly perform^
anc^.
Against aj pillar, in die bodjf of tliQ churchf aftoodia.
beautif^il image oC the ViigiivMary; and Jobn^Bur*.
n^t, Bishop of J^ath aj|d \^ells9 b^ueatbed 9^
hf^ndsQ92e estate;, that a lapop might continually -
bp kept burnipg before, it, and au anthem su^gi:
everyday-
In the center of the chjirch stQ^,^. large cross*
and/ toward^ the nortji d<)or, a ci^jci&c^.at which, of? .
. •• * . . fmngs
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fisrin^ w«re made, that gteatly idisreated the revennd
of the dean aad canonic.
The last piece of orftament deserting of ttention^
was the fine dial belonfging to the great cktek, Which
befiD^ visihle to ail who pa^ed by, care wad takeil
that ft should appear with the otriioat splendor, andj
in particular, an angel pointed to the hour.
St Fmrs CathlHinil was encompassed with a wsdl^'
about tl^ year 1 109, which extended frotn the north<^
^ast comer of Ave-Mary-kine, eastward, along Pater-
noster-row, to the north end of the Old Change, in
Cbeapside; whence it ran southward to Carter-lane,
and, passing on the north side of it fa Cref^d-Iane,
turned op to Ludgstte-street* To this wall there
were six gates, the principal of which was situated
near the end <k Creed-feii'e in Ludgate-street, The
Second was at St. Paul's^-atley, in Patefrtoster^mw r
Che third at Canon-alley; the fourth, called the Littlef
Gate, was situated at the entrance into Cheapside;
the fifth, called St. AnStin^s, led to Watling^street;
aild the sixth fronted the south gate of the church,
near PauFs-chain.
In the middle of the church-yard, within the north
dide of this inclosure, was situated a pulpit^^^rbs^, at!
which sermons were preached weekly; and' here wad
held the fblkmote^ or genertil Convention of thd citi-
2lens.
Facing this dross stood a chapel, called tlie Chair-
nel, m which the bones of the dead were deceiitiy
plied up together; a thousand cart-loads whereof
Were removed to Fmsbury-fields, irt the r^gn of Etl-
*»d yi, and there laid in a iliOori^ plkce, Witb to
much earth to cover them, aft raised a considerable^
M>ant, on which was erected th^ee windiirfll^.
At Ae lioithiwest OOrtler of the churtih-yarti, VJ^H
rtie e^iseopal pklace, contiguous to Whi(?h, on th^
east, was a cewewiy, denominated Paitteh-cftiUrbh-*
haw:
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4f HISTOET AKD fltJEVKV Of
baw; where Gill^rt Becket erected a chapel, in tb«
reign of King Stephen. Tins chapel was rebuilt io
the reign of Henry V. by Thomas Moore, Dean of St.
Paul's, who also encompassed it with a cloister, on
the walls of which was painted the Dance of Death;
a common subject on the walls of cloisters, oc reli«
gious places. This piece represented along train of
different orders of men, dancing into eternity, each
having Death for his partner. A painting of the
same kind, in the cloister of the Holy Innocents, at
' Paris, gave birth to a poem, consisting of the speeches
of the different personages, aud the answers of Death,
which was originally written in the German Ian*
guage, by Madiaber, whence the painting itself ac*
quired the appellatibn of the Macbabray, or Ma-
chabre. From a French version of this poem, our
old poet, Lydgate, made an English translation, of
which each speech was given to its corresponding
figure in the picture.
In this chapel were several sepulchral monuments,
which, according to Stow, exceeded, in curioua
workmanship, those in the neighbouring cathedraK
Over the east side of this cloister was a handsome
library, founded by Walter Shyrington, Chancellor
of the Duchy of Lancaster.
. On the east of the church-yard was a clochier, or
bell tower, by St. PauPs-schooI ; wherein were four
great bells, called Jesus-bells, from their belonging
to Jesus-pchapel, in St. Faith Vchurch; but these, to-
gether with a fine image of St. Paul, on the tap of
the spire, being won by Sir Miles Partridge, Knight^
of Henry VIII. at one ca^t of the dice, were, by that
gentleman, taken down and sold.
It may not be improper, here, to take notice of
the celebration of divine service, the obsequies, anni-
versaries, and chauntries, particularly belonging to
tbi9 cathedr?4- as to the ^rat, Richard Clifford, Bi-.
pho|>
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L06CDOV AKP ITS £JffyiB0tC8.^ 4<
abc^ pf LondoD, in 1414v ivith ihe qonseot of tbe
dean^ and chapter,, ordained, that, from theBcefort
ward, it shoudd be alteced from the old fouaa^ and
made. conformable to the chUfich of Sahata}ry,..aiid
other cathedrals within this kingdom. .
The performance of oba^uks^fiaF-gx^at ^peiBOni
deceased, was, however, retained aa'^.pec«dtarprivi<»
lege of this cathedral, from wheiieei great profits
afoae* ^' Indeed, the state add order/ obaerved oh
these occasions/' says Sir William EKigdafae,''^ wai
little inferior, to that uted j at the fuherals of. t;boae
great personages; the church and cb(Mr beiog hung
with\black, and • escutcheons of their ariiisr their
horses set up in - wonderful magniikieuoe,iadomeii
with rich banner-rolls, &g« and environed with, bar-*'
riers; having chief mcHiinecs and assist^nrls/iateoni;'*
panied bysev^al bii^hoi^s and abbots, in their proper
habits; die ambassadors of foreign princes, .many of
our nobility, the knights of tlie Garter, the brd mayors
and the several com{»nies of: London, who all at«
tended with great devotion at these ceremonies.'^
This author adds a list of emperors, empresses^ and
kings, whose obsequies were performed in this ca«
tbedral.
As to anniversaries, those of the conversion and
commemoration of St. Paul, the consecration of the
church, and the canonization of St. Erkenwald, were
the principal. It is very remarkable, with respectto
thet\vo first of these anniversaries, that Sir William ie
Baud, Knt. in the third year of Edward L granted a
good fat doe, annually, on the day of the conversion
of St. Paul, and a good fat buck, upon the day of
commemoratioii, which, till the reign of Queen Eli-
zabeth, were received with great formality, at the
steps of the choir, by the canons, clothed in their
facred vestments, with garlands of flowers on th6ip
h^adfi. Camden, who was an eye-witness of tliis qo-f
jj l-mnity,
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46 ' lUSlOaT A3ID SURVEY 'or '
komity, myst tfalft the hofda bf the buckwigre Ml%
ried on a spears in procdssion^ rouai ^faci kiAide of the
ohurck, the men bbwitig boitis, (8tc. an4 therii the
buck, being offend at the higb'ahat^ a shilling was
ordered by the dean and (^pter^ for the ^ntevtaifi^
ment of tbe,SQrtfaBls.ii?fao brougkt it ; and this oon-
duded tfar)cereiB0riy«
The »niiivei8arie» of the consecfation and ea^
nonixictioii^ were oelebratdd at the public expaoee ;
but there were .o(ber aBniverearies, of a private n^
tare, provided for by partiNsular endowmenid, as -that
of Sir John Pbonieney , Knt. who had been four timea
Loiid Mayor of London^and aaaigned annual aakirieft M
all who bore office about the chufcb, togetiwr with aa
allowance of aix shillings and eight pcoice to the lord
nnyor, fiveabtUmgt to tbe leeoraer, six sfailKngs and
- e^lfct pence to the iwo shcrifik) three ahillings and
icmr- pence to the common crier, she sbittings and
fright pence to the lord mayor^s seiyeemta; and ain
ttknllin^s and ei|fkt pence to the nueter of the colliege
of St- Laurence Fouuteney, provided they were pie*
sem a^ bis anniversary ; but, if any were absent, thot
share was to be do^buted to ifae poor. There word
many other anniversaries of the same kind. .
. The chauntries were founded by Bien of condition,
for the maintenanQe of one or tWo priests, to cele«<
biate divine service daily, for the release from pur^
gatory of theirsouls, the soul& of their dearest friends
and relations, and of all the faithful deceased*; but
Itiese were». ma short tione, increaaed to such, a de«
grae, and the endofUments were so slender, that, so
sarly-as the reign of ^Richard II. Bishop Bmyb^k6
eauaed forty-four of t^em to be united into one so^
itmn service.
liaving thus taken a transient survey of this mag*
inficent^edifice, in its flounshing^ state, with all its
qipendttgea, we shall' now view its decline) and Itace
this
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Le^ipotH- ANi> IXi £9¥IJt6M. 49^
this vcMi»U« Gotbiie stmolorqi to ite final destnie^
TNq fiim rew^rktbto mMft>itu»e that Weil it wm
lA Il44i4> wben, abour. t^m Q^;L9ek. hi tbe^ afternMD^.
m k^ty w^ockA 8f>ii?e was fir«d^y l^taMg;, boty.
hy ibe fmiimty cS (he eitiaefia, ii was, «aoiiv sMinh*
11991^9 ^xtipgwhed: however, td.t^r gfrntcSunpoM:
swd tQQGOP^ it. brcdM qut ag^ia with rediHAhM.ftiry at.
a^Mi iwe o^ctoak ai night ; bat,;by tho iiuteft^igahk)
{l^Qsof the lord Baayx>c anfl ciUmog^ it waa at last;
effectually extinguished. Xh« djimafe )vaa; not;,
h^rwevec^ fiiUy repaired till the year 146% wihen the
spiittrwaa.Qonftpifete^ aiadi a. beaiilifUl Taoe of; g^
cQppev iof the formi of^ an eaglet waa plaeed upon it. .
AhoM an. hjuadred. yean, after this aacident^.
aopth^r of. the same: kind. happened to it, genenaJbfr
sittfibuted to the aan>e canae., \mt mneh more fatal in:
its consequ^neea ; thefu-e-conaujBingnationly'ttiafiMi
s^ire^ butthe uppec roof of the church^afidtbat.of/thei
aisles ; for, in the space of four hours it burnt ail the*
mfteasi, and every thing else that T^as combustible :
l)ut tbqugb it waa universally believed tbait this* fiiac;
was occasioned by lightning, yet, Dc* Hef]rltn> si^^,
an anejeot pliiinGJber confeased, at hisfdeath^ that: it:;
waa ocoaaiqned; through his negligence, in. carelessiyr
laaxriiig aipSin of: coala- in; the steeple^, while he: went!
tpi^dinner^ which taking hold of the dry timber iau
th^ spine, was got tQ,such Si height H histreturn^ thalri
h(^ judged, it impoasible to quenoh. it» andthesefoo^i
Cfmciuded it would be ibore conaNilefii with^ faja?
safety not to contradict the comotion import
This calamity was* foUowied by a.genecsi cantrip 1
b^tion among the: cl^gy<, nohfelity^ afld<gmaAvOflEk)^iiy/
of Hate, tb^ai):yi^. London, and Qm^o Eltaabfil^
hefaelfi whQ:gare a: thousand marks in gold toi¥iiKid9:»
it^ sppedy repair>» with, a; wanrant. ioc: at.thousandl)
lQ*ij.ojgtimteii tQ M. cof,..in< any nfi.her woods,,.
wherever
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48' fttStORl? UKD strfevBV off
wlo^rever it should be (bund most convenient ; so
that in five years time, the timber roofs were entirely
finished, and covered with lead, the two largest
being framed in Yorkshire, and brought by sea; but
some difference in opinion arising about the model
of the steeple, that pitrt of the work was left unat^
tempted ; and it was never after rebuilt; for upon
raising the roofe the walls were found to be so much
damaged by the fire, that it was judged neii^essary
to make a general repair of the whole building ; but
this was deferred for a long time.
At length Mr. Henry Farley, after above eight
years earnest solicitation of King James I. prevailed
on his majesty to interpose in order to prevent the
ruin of this venerable fabric, when that prince, con-
sidering of what importance appearances are in the
promotion of public zeal, caused it to be rumoured
abroad, that on Sunday, the 96th of March, 16S0,
he would be i»^sent at divine service in St. Paul's
cathedral.
. Accordingly, at the day appointed, his majesty
came- thither on hoi^eback in all the pomp of royalty,
attended by the principal nobility and great officers
of his court, and was met by the lord mayor, alder*
men, and livery, in their formalities, who, upon the
king's alighting at the great west door, joined in the^
procession. When his majesty entered the church,
he kneeled near the brazen pillar, where he prayed
for success; and then was received under a canopy,
supported by the dean and residentiaries, the rest of
the preben4s and dignitaries, with the whole compa-
ny Of singing-men advancing before him to the cboir»
which, on this occasion, was richly adorned %vlth
hai^ngs. Here he heard an^antliem,.at)d then pro-
ceeded to the cross, where Dr. King, Bisihop of Lon-
dbn, preached la sermon suitsrble to the occasion, from
a, text given him by his majesty, in Psalm cii. 13, U*
and
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U)NDON AND ITS ENTIBOITS. 49
and this sermoD was afterwards circulated with con««
' sidenible effect through the whole kingdom. After
divine service was endued, his majesty and the whole
court were splendidly entertained at the bishop's
palace^ where a consultation was held, in which it
was agreed to i^ue a commission under the great
aeal^ directed to the principaf personages in the
kiogdom, empowering them to consider of the
neceasaiy repairs, and to raise money for carrying
them into execution. But though the commis*
sicmeis afterwards met t6 prosecute this inquiry, yet,
as it was found that the ruin of the bishop and prin^
cipal dignitaries of the cathedral was chiefly aimed
at, the whole affair came to nothing.
However, in the succeeding reign another com-
mission was obtained for the same purpose, by the
assiduity of Archbishop Laud, which was attended
widi better success; so that in 16:33, Inigo Jones,
his majesty's surveyor-general, was ordered to begip* *
the repairs at the south-east end, and to bring them
along by the south to the west end.
This celebrated architect prosecuted the work
with such dili]^ence, that in nine years time, the
whole was finished 1[)oth within and without, except
the steeple^ which was intended to be-entirely taken
down^ and a magnificent portico of the Corinthian
order, was also erected at the west end, at the sole
expense of King Charl^ I. ornamented with the
statues of his royal father and himself.
Everything being now in readiness for erecting
the steeple and spire, which were to be of stone, an
estimate was made of the money contributed, and
that already expended in repairs; whereby it ap*
peared that one hundred and one thousand three
hundred and thirty pounds four shillings and eight*
pence had been received into the chamber of Lon-
don on this account, and but thirty-five thousand five
VOL. III. H " hundred
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iO HISTORY AND SURVEY OF*
liundred and fifty-one ponnds two shillings and
four pence paid out, so that there appeared to .be a
fund in hand sufficient to erect it in the most mag-
nificent manner : but the flames of civil war soon
after breaking out, a period was put to this great
design.
The revenues were now seized; the famous plilfHt
cross in the church yard was pulled down ;• the
scaffolding of thesteeple was assigned by parliament
, for the payment of arrears due to the army ; the
body of the church was converted into saw^pits ; -
part of the south cross was suffered to tumble down;
the west part of the church was converted into a
stable, and the stately new portico into shops for
milliners and others, with lodging-rooms over them,
at the erecting of which, Dr. HeyUn observes, the
magnrficent columns were piteously mangled, being
obliged to make way for the ends of beams, which
penetrated their centers.
However, at the restoration, a new commission
was procured for its immediate reparation, and
great sums of money raised by a voluntary contribu-
tion ; but before any thing material could be ac-
cotnplished, the dreadful fire of London reduced
the whole edifice to little better than a heap of
ruins.
After two years fruitless labour in endeavouring
to fit up some part of the old fabric for divine wor-
ship, it was found to be incapable of any substantial
repair. It was therefore resolved to raze the founda-
tions of the old building, and to erect on the same
spot a new cathedral that should equal, if not exceed,
the splendor of the old ; for this end letters patent
were granted to several lords, spiritual and temporal,
authorising them to proceed in the work, and ap-
pointing Dr. Christopher Wren, Surveyor-general of
all his mjyesty's works, to prepare a model. Con-
tributions
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 51
tributioos came in so extremely fast, that in the
firet ten years, above one hundred and twenty-six
thousand pounds were paid int6 the chamber of Lon-
don ; a. new duty for the canrying on of this work
was laid on coals, which at a medium produced five
thousand pounds per' annum, and his majesty
generously contributed one thousand pounds a-year
towards tlie same.
Dr. Wren, afterwards Sir Christopher, was now
called upon to produce his designs: he had before
dfawn several, in order to discover what would be
most acceptable to the general taste; and finding
that persons of all degrees declared for magnificence
and grandeur, he formed a very noble one,, con-
formable to the best style of the Greek and Roman
architecture, and having caused a large model to be
made of it in wood, with all its ornaments, he pre-
setted it to his majesty ; but the bishops not approv-
ing of it, as not being enough of a cathedfal fashion,
the surveyor was ordered to amend it, upon which
he produced the scheme of the present structure,
which was honoured with his majesty's approbation.
Thesurveyor, however, seta higher value upon thefirst
design, which was only of the Corinthian order, lik^
St. Peter's at Rome, than on any other he ever drew 5
and, as the author of his life observes, would have
put it in execution with more chearfulness, than
that which we now see erected. This curious model
18 still preserved in the cathedral, and may be seen
at a small expense.
All things being now ready, and many difficulties
surmounted. Dr. Wren, in the year. 167^9 began to
prosecute the work; the puUing down the old walls,
which were eighty feet high, and clearing the rub»
bish, had cost many of the labourers their lives ; and
this put him upon contriving to facilitate its execu*
don by art. The first project he tried was with
gunpowder ;
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59 HISTORY AKD SURVEY OF
gunpowder; for, on their coming to the tower of die
steeple, the men absolutely refused to work upon it ;
for its height struck the most hardy of them with
terror. He therefore caused a hole, of about four feet
. wide, to be dug in the foundation of the north-west
pillar, it being supported by four pillars, each four«
teen feet diameter, and then, with tools made on
purpose, wrought a hole, tw6 feet square, into the
center of the pillar, in which he placed a little deal
box, containing only eighteen pounds of powder. A ,
cane was fixed to the box with a match, and the
hole closed up. again with as much strength as pos*
sible.
Nothing now remained but to set fire to the train ;
and the surveyor was exceeding curious to observe
the effect of the explosion, wbicti, indeed, was won-
derfuh for this small quantity of powder not only
lifted up the whole angle of the tower, with two
arches that rested upon it, but also the two adjoining
arches of the aisles, and all above them ; and this it
seemed to do somewhat leisurely, cracking the walla
to the top, and lifting up, visibly, the whole weight
about nine inches, which; suddenly tumbling to its
centre, again caused an enormous heap of ruin, with*
out scattering; and it was half a minute before this
huge mountain opened in two or three places, and
emitted smoke. The shock of so great a weight from
a height of:itwo hundred feet, alarmed the inhabitants
round about with the terrible apprehensions of an
earthquake.
A second trial of the same kind was. made by a
person appointed by Dr. Wren, who, being too wise
in bis own conceit, disobeyed the orders he had re-
ceived, put in a greater quantity of powder, and
Dmitted to take the same care in closing up the hole,
' or digging to the foundation; but, though this second
trial had the desired effect, yet one stone was shot,
US
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LONDOH AMB ITS ENTIIOKS. 65
18 from die mouth of a canoon, to the opposite side
of the church-yard, and entered a private room,
where some wooien were at woii^; but no other da-
rn^ was done, besides spreading a panic among the
neighbours, who instantly made application to the
government against the farther use of gunpowder;
and orders were issued from the counciUboard ac«
conhngly.
The surveyor being now reduced to the necessity
of making new experimen.t8, resolved to try the bat*
tering ram of the ancients; and therefore caused a
strong mast, forty feet long, to be shod with iron at
the biggest end, and fortified every way with bars
and ferrels, and, having caused it to be suspended,
set it to work. Thirty men were employed, in vi-
brating this machine, who beat in one place, against
the iralK a whole day, without any visible eliect.
He, however, bid them not despair, but try what
another day would produce ; and, on the second day,
the wall was perceived tp tremble at the top, and,
in a few hours, it fell to the ground.
In clearing the foundation, he found that the north
side had been anciently a great burying«-place; for,
under the graves of the latter i^es, he found, in a
row, the graves of the Saxons, who cased their dead
in chalk-stones ; though persons of great eminence
were buried in stone coflins : below these were the
graves of the ancient Britons, as was manifest from
the great number of ivory and wooden pins found
among die mouldered dust; for it was their method
only to pin the corpse in woollen shrouds, and lay
it in the ground; and this covering being con-
sumed, the ivory and wooden pins remained entire.
At a still greater depth, he discovered a great num*»
her of Roman potsherds, urns, and dishes, sound,
and of a beautiful red, like our sealing-wax ; on the
bottoms of soflftc of them were inscriptions, which
3 denoted
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54 RUTORY ANB SURVEY OF
denoted their having been drinking vessels; and, on
others, which resembled our modern s^lad dishes^
beautifully made, and curiously wrought, was the
inscription, DZ. PRIMANL and, on others, those of
FATRICL QUINTIMANL VICTOR. lANUS*
RECINIO, &c. The pots, and several glass vessels,;
were of a murrey colour; and others, resembling tims,
were beautifully embellished on the outsides with
raised work, representing grey-hounds, stags, hares,
and rose-trees* Others were of a cinnamon colour,
in the form of an urn, and, though a little faded,
appeared as if they had been gilt. Some, resembling
jugs, were of an hexagonal form, curiously indented,
and adorned with a variety of figures in basso
relievo.
The red vessels appeared to have been the most
honourable ; for on them were inscribed the names
of their deities, heroes, and judges ; and the matter of
which these vessels were made, was of sxich an ex-
cellent composition, as to vie with polished metal in
beauty.
There were also discovered several brass coins,
which, by their long continuance in the earth, were
become a prey to time; but some of them that were
in a more favourable soil, were so well preserved as
to discover in whose reign they were coined: on one
of them was Adrian's head, with a galley under oafs
on the reverse ; and, on others, the heads of Romulus
and Remus, Claudius and Constantine.
At a somewhat smaller depth, were discovered a
number of lapilli, or tesselae, of various sorts of mar*
ble, viz. Egyptian, porphyry, jasper, &c. in the form
of dice, which were used' by the Romans in |>aving
the (H^toriura, of gendraFs tent.
On searching for the natural ground,. Dr. Wren
perceived that thefoundation of theold churchstood
upon a layer of very close and hard pot^earth,* about
six
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LONDON AND ITS £NYIBOKS* St
mx feet deep) on the. north side, but grad^iy thin-
ning towards the scHitb, tilU on the declivity of the
hill, it was scarce four feet; yet he concluded that
the same ground which had borne so weighty a
building before, might reasonably be trusted again^
However, boring beneath this, he found a stratum of
loose sand; and, lower still, at low water-mark, water
and sand, mixed with perriwinkles and other sea
shells; under this, a hard beach ; and, below all, the
natural bed of clay, that extends. far and wide, un-
der the city, country, and river.
The foundations appeared to be those originally
laid, consisting of Kentish rubble^sione, . artfully
work^, and consolidated with exceediug hard mor-
tar, after the Konaan manner, much excelling what
be found in the superstructure. What induced him
to change the site of the church, and era^se the old
foundations, which were so firm, was the desire of
giving the new structure' a more free and graceful
aspect; yet, after all, he fopnd himself too much
confined, and unable to bring his front to lie exactly
from Ludgate. However, in his progress, he met
with one misfortune, that made him almost repent
of the alteration he had made: he beean tl>e foundar
tion from the west to the east, and then, extending
his I'ue to the north-east, where he expected no in-
terruption, he fell upon a pit, where the hard crust
of pot-earth, already mentioned, had been taken
away, and, to his unspeakable mortification, iilled up
with rubbish; he wanted but six or seven feet to
complete his design, yet there was no other remedy
but digging through the sand, and building from the
soUd earth, th^t was at least forty feet deep. He
therefore sunk a pit, eighteen feet wide^ though be
wanted, at most, but seven, through ail the strata
that has been already mentioned, and laid the foynda-
tions of a square pier, of solid masonry, which he
carried .
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66 lirsToHY AKD roftTkv C9
carried up till iie came within fifteen feet of liie pre*
sent surfoce, and tiien turned a short arch under-
gitMind, to the level of the stratum of hard pot^arth ;
iipoti which arch the iiorth-east comer of the choir
now stands.
This difficulty being surmounted, and the founda-
tions laid, he, for several reasons, made choice of
Pordand-^tone for the superstructure; but chiefly as
the largest scantlings were to be procured from
thence: however, as these could not be depended
upon for columns, exceeding four feet in diameter,
it determined this great architect to make choice of
two orders instead of one, and an attic story, as at
St Peter's, at Rome, id order to preserve the just
proportions of bis cornice, otherwise the edifice must
have fallen short of its intended height. Bramante,
in building St. Peter's, though he bad the quarries
of Tivoli at hand, where he could have blocks large
enough for columns of nine feet diameter, yet, tot
•want of stones of suitable dimensions, was obliged to
diminish the proportions of the proper members of
his cornice; a fault, against which Dr. Wren resolved
to guard. On these principles he therefore proceeded,
in raising the present magnificent edifice; the first
stone of which was laid, by Mr. Strong, the chief
mason, on the 21st of June, 1675.
The geoeml form of St. Paul's cathedral is a long
cross: the walls are wrought in rustic, and strength'-
ened as well as adorned by two rows of coupled pi-
lasters, one ov^ the other; the lower Corinthian, and
the upper Composite. The spaces between the
arches of the windows, and the architrave of the
lower order, are filled with a great variety of curious
enrichments, as are those above.
The west front ^ is graced with a most magni-
ficent portico, a noble pediment, and two stately
turrets, and, when advancing towards the church
from
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IOhboii AiiD Its tJiYiMisfSi 47
lk>4^ Ludgate, the el^ant construction of this fnqDt^
^ fine turrets over eaph corner, and the vast dcnne
Whind, fill the mjn<ji with a pleasing astpni^hmept.
At this end^ there is a noble flight of steps of black
nai^le, that extend the ^hole length of the portico^
which consists of twelve k^ Corinthjan columnjs)
Jbelow,.and eight of the Coniposite .order above;
those are all coupled and fluted 4 The upper seriea
supports 1^. noble pediment, crowned with its acro-»
t^(i» . In this pediment is a very elegant representor
ti<^, in. has. reliefi of the conversion of St. Paul;
.which wa3 executed by Mn Bird, an artist, who, by
this pi^ce, has deserved to have his name transmitt
ted to posterity «. Nothing could. have been con^-
petved more difficult to represent in has relief, than
this conversioii, the most striking object being natu<»
rally the irradiation. of light; but even this is well
^xprem^i and the figures are excellently performed^
The magnificent figure of St. Paul, on the apex
of the p^iment) with St* Peter on his right, and Su
James on his left, have a fine effects The four Evsxh-
gelists, with their proper emblems, on the front of
the toweni^ are also vejry judiciously disposed, and
well executed: St. Matthew is distinguished by an
angel; St. Mark by a lion ; St, Luke by an ox, an^
St. John by an ^agle*
To Ae north portico, there is an ascent by twelve
Cficular steps of black marble ; and its dome is supn
ported by six laige Corinthian columr^, forty-eight
inches in diameter. Upon the dome is a large and
'Well-proportioned urn, finely ornaniented with fes- ^
toons4 and over this is a pediment, supported, by pi*
rktf^l^rs JA.the wall, in the face of which is the royie^
anns, with< the regalia, supported by angels. And,
lest tbis.view pf the cathedral should appear Void of
.sulBcieQt <MTwnent, the statues of five of the Apostleii^
^weplaoefi qn ^ top, at proper distances^
YQU.llU I Th^
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« The t^Knjth ^9ortico nnftWimi' t^ Aie nordfi, ^MT tip
^ced directly opposite to it^ Tll4)»v Uk^ the 4Mfa«iv
is a dome, fiiijp^rted ijj «idb W^Ue Corihlllicrflr
eokitnns: but, asth^*^rotmdiis€<MI9ideiiAblyicy^«roi»
tlM,thaa on theotheri^fde ot tite thurcby the nsdeM^
by a flight of twenty*ve flftepjr, ?%ite fortfco iWi^
jtMaa pediment above, in t^bich k a ph^bifix YtoifiM^
l>nt of the flames- with the metta RESURGrAll
Underneath it, as an ^nMem tif the ftbuilAiifg tfve
dittrch after th« five. Thiis device i»ad, pcithaptf^ iMf
ongin ironr Im incident wbi<;h' hafliMMd at tiM^
Ikrgitiifiing of the ivorkr and wa^pattfciilartytcMmriPr
(ed by the architect sBs a fevbiiftiMe^mieft. Whi)n19lv
Wren himsdf had aet Out Updifi the pllttseHi^ dfansw-
Mens of the bciildiag, and lixisd ^tSptni llieeeimfritf'
the great dothe, a commoii latbttver WafrordWt4<tr
bring him a flat ^ane^ the first te Ibund aiflMg <i»
tubbi^h, to Idate a& k tifBtk df direietidii tiS Aift^
inMons; ifie iMone %hidi 'the fellow koifght tdr
this purpose, hisippetied to be af piece of *agw^-2gMite,
With nothing remainim^ of th^ iij^crip&>ii^hM^i»
!»ingle wovd in large capitat»y ']^Sl>R€rA!M ; "a 'dfu
teumsttmce wiiich Or, Wreh nt?fW fbtgot. On ^h
kide of the building ate likeWiiSe five atafUMa^^MlMb
^ake iheir sittiatidn ifr^Hii rtheft of ^t* AnditfW nallt^
apex of the last mentioned pedhHttltt.
' At the efeustend of the church i^^sW^M^ildlilar
](ir6jection for the altar, flnel}' omametited wil^tfa^
'Orders, and with tJecorated idculpt(lt«^.
The dome \Vhit!;h rises in the center ^ tift mMb^
-iipp^ts exttemehr ^rstwJ. T««nin«y *fo«t 'tA^o^^thfe
•iodfoftheiAntch l^a-dtctitettaitgfeitf lfafr«yuMt>
^knrtns, withnicbe* pfeded e)tad%'ai^iMt "OHms
within. These ^retefmitfatedbjrAeir dUHJbkMnffl,
iVhich suptM>rt^ a handsome |ratteiy,'bAit^
%ah}Mrade. A^bt^e these cohimtfs f» «i ^MM^ ^
jpilastersr^ith Windows beWTrtn*; ^aAd<fl^ '«te«i«
* >taMtture
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fi40l^Iy ; «hI 4wq .feeit ai)Qve tb^ U 19 again qoq*
<IMM* FiWA thi» PfUt tbe ^t^^fl^ji SHr€;Qp of t^^
dome begins, aod the arches meet at fifty-two lee|
•bO^^w - On ; the f umixnit pf Ibe d^mcr is an el^arit
falkony; ,md firam its QQP^^ i^i^^ itbe ^Dtern>
tda»^ Wtb Corinthi^o poiuEQUgs and the whpU^
ImftHMlM by ft ball, from whi^h ri9e« « crq«f , bqtl^
nlnpii^ly «|ik. Tbesf^ part*, which ^ppes^ fp(i)]|
iMlOfir of A neiy oiod^mto f u;?, are ei^emely (^e.
niit m9t md iioUa&brie, whipb i# t^fp |Jboi/a^(|
IVQ kwdlittd ftiid oioety-rt^Q feeX in ^xcfim^^^Wfi^
m4 thMfi hiM3i4i«d ia4 ^Qrty leet; jq i^ht^ to tbf
tv of 4bfi cn)M> is Bimoy^nd^d ^ a pcc^r di^t^qcf
kyM flwirfafewe wnU, ^^d wh»k » pl»P^4 the inof^
iwcnifinfi.MiiitJftdr of ^mH^ inm p«fli)i^)» in .^^
lifiiiiiwi^ ^ dwnt fiw fmt.Aiy: iDphfs m h^igt^t^
wliwinn x>f tiM ivnilf In this # lately vpi^kMnf^^ m
wnm bflMMifiU iipa gpatofi ivbkh^ tffgdthti? w'}^ %
liimdMsd» nwigb tWA blUldmci l#n» ^nd eyilMyH^ne
pUMMb, iriMh l^Tliif WRtffiirpeq^e per ^(wndi th^
wM0t witk otbet jsha«g€«, ftm|U»M ^ «1^«9
' 4«0 hmidri4fW4 two pQM«4s 9<)4 ft^l^r
Ja the wea of the grand w^ fropti m a fM^&^
of excellent workmanship, stands a 9M(M^ of Qu^fl
Atme^ f^no^d tf ivhito tnarki^^ with {»op^ d^qlra*
tiom« l>f ftguiMPQ th« l^ii^ reprffMMit |^^nQi«>
vkh her spear; Gfilli^y with n crowp i^ hii)r.Up;
itifaccBia,.%fi(tb her bftrp ; and A«^ic» m^ her bow.
these* and th^ colossal iil^t^es with ^hlch thi|
cfauack 19* adorosd, were sU done by thi^ Ing^iour
Hr« Hiilt vho wm chiefly f^mployed i& tt^ deoorsr
The »orth*M8k part of the chun:b-y«rd )1m»1<)P9P to
^ idiabitaots ff $t Faith'i^ imrish» whifl^ i» wite4
to
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to HISTORT AND StTRTEY 69
to St. AustinV, for the interment of their dead ; m
^oes the south-east part* of the cemetery,, with' n
vault therein, to St* Gregory's parish for the Mme
use.
On ascending the steps at the west end, wis find
three dooi^ ornamented on the top with has rdiefc;
the middle door, which is by far the laijgest, is cased
with white marble, and over it is a fine piece of
basso relievo, in whifeh St. Paul is represented pveacii*
ing to the Bereans, On entering this door, on tlie
inside of which hang the colours taken firdm the
French at Louisburg in 1758, the mind is struck by
the nobleness of the vista ; an arcade, supported by
lofty and massy pillars on each' hand, divide 4ie
church into the body and two aisles, and the vie«r it
tentiinated by the altar at the extremi^ of A%
choir. The above pillars are adorned with cdunmi
land pilasters of the C<^nthian ' and ONafKMtttft
biders, aiid the arches of the voof are enriched 'iwitfa
shields, festoons, chaplels, and other ornaments.
In one 'aisle is the consistory, and apposite to it
hi the other is the morning prayer ckiapel, whem
divine service is performed every morning, Sunday
ex<!epted : eaiih of these has a very beautifiilacreea
of carved wainscot, and is adorned with twelve
columns, arched pediments, and the royal ann^
0nely decorated.
' On proceeding forward, we come to the large
cross aisle between the north and south porticoes i
over whidh is the grand cupola, of dome. Here is a
fine view of the whispering gallery, of the paintings
iEibove it, and the concave of the dome, which fills
the mind with surprise and pleasure. Under its
center id fixed in the floor a brass plate, round which
the pavement is beautifully variegated ; but the
figures into which it is formed can no where be so
^eU seeii as from t)ie. whidperin| ^lerv. I|i this
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le fafliig" tbe cokyuis taken fi»ai £he Ffehdh by
tiord ' 'Howe ;' from the Spaniaids by' Lords St.
Vibe^nt and Nekwm, and from the Dutch -by Lord
DoDcan.
' S'rom hence . the spectator has a foil view of the
agan^ richly oroamented with carved work, with the
mtrance to the ohok diteotly under it. The two
aisles on the sides of the choir, as weU as thexhok
itself, are enclosed with very line iron raits and gates.
- The OEgan gallery is supported by eight Cori^ian
icolmnns of blue^and white .marble, and the ^hoi^
has on each side thirty stalls, besides tbe bishop's
thione on the south side, and the lord mayor's on
the north. The carving? of the beautiful rai^e of
stadia as well as that of the csgan, is much admired.
The re^^s deak, which is at some distiyice from
.the pulpit, is an enclosure of brass rail^ gilt, in whiob
is a gilt brass pillar, supporting an eagle of brass,
gilt, th^t holds tl)p bi[^ on bis back a^ expan4ed
swings. . • '.
^ Tbe altar piece is adorned with four, nobie fluted
.piksters, painted and veined with gold» in imitation
fii lapis lazuli, and their capitals are doubly gilt«
jn the int^rcolumniations are nine marble pnnniela;
the table is covered with figured crimson v/^lvet^ aa4
above are six windows, in two series. .
The floor of the choir, and, indeed) of the^wbolf
jBhuQchi is paved with marble, ejccept that part witk^
in the rails of the altar, which isf of porphyry, poti^
0d and l^d in several gepmetrical figuries
. 9ut to be more particular: as the dispot^itipn of
th^ yaifltings >¥ithin is s^n essential beautyi ^ithot|t
which many other ornaments wouk| Ipse their effect,
#0 the architect ws^ particularly capful ip thi^ r^f*
apect. *^ The Romans,'^ says the author of tH^
^aireptalia, '^ used hemisphei'ical vaultings, and Sif'
iQJtrjstopUef cl^ose t|ipse as be|ng demonstrably
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ISs nnomi Am wmtsv Mr i
fighter than AeJiM%onBictcm.wMioiltA^. BoAfai.nriMlt
^Mukof S% Pted'aiCiipfl»i^.-of fevonty firar cupda
est off .semieirGubiv with ne^fnBaH^joimtmthc
great arches one way, and which are cut aacM.tfae
Athor, with oliptkuH cyliodtM teilefe iii the Jifif>er
lights uf the nave ) but in thaaiiloa the Iqipar
^cupolas are both imys onto an semicirouhn- sMlioa^
and altogether maika agrseefai geooietrical. fern;
^isttnguMMl with oirciiiar wreatks/ whirii is tiie
iiorisontal section ef the evpoia^ far tjie hemis*
phere may be cut ail numner of wjm into oiMuiar
4Bqctions; and the arches and wreaths l>eiiig<ifat«tie
carved^ the spandpels between are nf souiid hriefcw
inTCSted with stucco of cackte«>sh^ lim^ whiok
becomdB as bard as PofCknd stone} and whiah luMit-
Inpf lams planes i^tween the steos ribs^ are ei^ble
lar the rarthet' omatnents of pMMing, if re^radL
^ Besides these twentyr^dur eupcfa^ thfre le
n ha)f eapola at the east» and the great enpoUqf
one hundred and eight feet in diameter at the wAif-
die of (flie cMasing of Che grsaft aMee. in this 4he
atrohitect Imitated tibe Pteitheon at Romfc, exee|^«
ing that thfe npper order is there only nrahratde^
and'dfistiBgukthcfd by different eolonrcd marUes ; ia
B€. PauPs It is Extant out of «he waR. The Bin«-
theon is no higher within than fts dkmeter: 8(t
Fetei^s 1d two diameterB ; this shews too high» the
otfier too low; St. PEtuKs is a mean proportion bisw
tffetti hothy which shews its concave every way,
and is very lightsome by the windows of the un**
pef order, winch strike down thp light thnjugh the
greftt i^olonade that encircles the dome without
and serves for the abntn^ent of the dome, which
is brick of two bricks thick ; but as it rises every
way, fire feet high, has a course pf excellept bric& .
of eighteen inches longb^idipg through the whoie
thicknesi ; and mdreover^ to make it still mor6
4 secure,
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kb>MHro«ndUaraiAi«.TMt ciMifi «C \f9n^
mm%ikj \wdM^ «ogttfcbr iat evciyi tim ftet Tbai$
«Mfe % Art )iMiBr« vlnmtd wt <t>U ^i«4}«iMia|^ «^
P«Minid'«toii«^ iHrni defended Iwom tbo WAth^ jbjr
Miitftbe groove wilklndL
' *'9ltt«iac»vcwBtnnndiipotia'cettkr; wlufii
«M jodgei stoeBSBty t» leeep the wmk e^n tod
IniQ^ itboiifk ft oMMa mi|^ be buHt withjo^Jl*
cmMr-; Imt •tittrtmrrable that the oestor "wa*
kai w^hogtany sMMhrdsftom b(ik>w to support.;
aad •«* it ^-was both tentefkig *»d 4«tffoldiDg^ it
remained for the tue ^ <tlte .paisier. £vc<y -Mory
elf iMevcaibkltQg being dvcvlar, aad the. ends of
dl thelc^MS Meeting at jo maajr rtng% and truty
ti>raugbt, it s^iported ilsdC This machine wa»
an oMghd t>f the JbimI, and wiH lie <a& 4i«Bfi4
fi^tot {for «bB 4ihe vodc» to an awhitiBat liere*
•ft**;
^ it wat^Mcewnjr ^^jpyfca gveater height th«ii
tftteifpcfo wobM gmceAdlyaUo« irkbM^ tbaugli
It it csotttidenMy above the roof of 'tbs QbHWhi
yet tile oM «hifroh luMog before had « veiy Mljsy
9^ «f >ttliA«lr<aBd lead, the vorki expectfcd that
Wb wm iMtk thoM not, in ^his M;f»ect» &U
ahttit of the old; the architect ««» thoe^rft
^1]|^ tt> comply wMi >the <h«nuour of th^agi^
tnid t5-h^ ano^ier stmotureoverthefoitcupolfL;
abd Am iMittoone of>briok, ao built ;•» to sup*
Mkt:tfttoiie'4iiftte»n of an «le|piBt figuit^ AadwrfU
" Ite-vb^ wlMle tihttrdi !abo«K the vaiiktng i^
(«¥brad'iiriKi%Wb9tatttial oidcen roo£ aad kftd,
fbe AiAiM durable covcriog in bar cUmats^ jlo.^a
bovtMdlMdiJiid •out of^^tte brick c«a«, wltb
aMMhfircttpala oftiitberouidlead; and fadtweon
tirit-Midltlwoom^ a»eeasy]>taits«bataM«iid tothc
Imtem, Here the apaatatar'ttiiy thaoe a vkw. #if
such
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64 MnSTOE* Am)rSV]LVXT*0» :
such amazing cdntrirances asi are indeed astooisil^
hi^r He forebore' to make little lutiiem wiodonrst
hi the kaden clupola, - as are done out of St Peter's^
because he had otherwise provided for light enough
to the stairs from the lantern abovci and round
the pedestal of the same, which are now seen be*
iow; so that he only ribbed the outward cupola^
%rhich he thought less gothic than to stick it full of
MCh little lights in three stories one above another^
as is the cupola of St Peter's, which could not
without difficulty be mended, and, 4f neglected^
would soon damage the timbers."
As Sir Christopher was sensible, that paintings^
though ever so excellent, are liable to decay, hq
intei^ed to have beautified the inside of the cupola
wit4i mosaic work, which strikes the eye of the be^
holder with amazing lustre, and without the least
decay of colours, is as durable as the building itself;
b«t4n this he was unhappily over-ruled, though
he had undertaken to procure four of the.mosfe
eminent artists in that profession from Italv; this
I art is however richly decorated and painted b^ Sip
ames Thorn hill, who has represented the pTi{i,ci-«.
pal passages of SU Paul's lire in eight comport-*
ments, viz. his conversion ; his punishing Elyinas,^
the sorcerer, with blindness; his preaching at
Athens; his curing the poor cripple at Lystra, an4
the reverence paid him there by the priests of Ju-«
piter as a God; his convecsion of .the Jailor ; hi»
preaching at Ephesus, ^nd the burning of the mar
gic books in consequence of the miracles he
wrought there; his.triaLbefore Agrippa; his ship?
wreck on the island of > Melita, or Malta, with th^
miracle of the Viper. These paintings: ai^ nil seen
to advantage; by means of a circular x>penings
through which, the light is transmitted with admir«
abl&eiect frooLthe katern above* ,■ ,
the
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U>)<ddN AMD tfS fcKVlkOKS. ^5
*rhe highest or last stoticon the top of the'laiitern,
Vas laid by Mr. Christopher Wren, the son of this
great architect, in the year one thousand seven
hundred and ten; and thus was this noble fabric^
lofty enough to be discerned at sea eastward, and at
Windsor to the west, begun and compleated in the
space of thirty-five years, by one architect, the
great Sir Christopher Wren; one principal mason,
Mr. Strong ; and under one bishop of London, Dr*
Henry Compton : whereas St. Peter's at Rome,
the only structure that can come in competition
with it, continued an hundred and fifty-five years
in building, under twelve successive architects;
assisted by the police and interests of the Roman
see; attended by the best artists of the world in
sculpture, statuary, paintingand mosaic work; and
facilitated by th? ready acquisition of marble from
the neighM>iiring quarries of Trivoli. It has been
already observed that the old cathedral contained
many beautiful monuments to the memory of illus-
trious personages; but till within a few years no
ornament of this description embellished the pre-
sent edifice, though it is very probable Sir Christo-
pher foresaw that at some time it would become the
repository of these testimonials to departed virtue
and genius. The two monuments first honoured
with a situation in this building, were those of Mr.
Howard, and Dr. Johnson, both of which are
single figures, by the late Mr. Bacon. The first,
in which the character of active benevolence is
finely expressed, stands upon a pedestal of white
marble, on which is a group in bas relief repre-
senting a scene in a prison, where Mr. Howard,
having broken the chains of the prisoners, is bring*
ihg provisions and cloathing for their relief. The
other represents a moral philosopher, with the at-
titude and expression of intense thought^ leaning
VOL. III. K asrainst
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Bff^ tHISTORY AND SORVCV OF
against a coiunvn, indicati^ce of the iirmncfis of
mind and stalnlity of principles of the man it is fo^
tended to commemorate. On the pedestal of thi»
statue is inscribed a Latin epitaph. These wcfc
opened for public ii»Skpection in tlie beginning e€
the year 17S6.
It should be recorded to the credit of the dean
and chapter of the cathddral that on applicaiioa
being made to them for permission to erect the fir^t
of these statues, they consented without requiring
any fee for its admission, making it, however, a
condition that no monument should be erected,
unless the design was first approved by a com-
mittee appointed by the Royal Academy ; in order
to prevent the introduction of any which might
kni discordant with the building, or incompatible
^with general propriety.
In the course of the year ISO^, two monuments
Were erected to the memory of Captains Burges
and Faulkner, M'ho fell gloriously in the last war,
fightiug in their country's cause. The first i« bjr
Banks, and is composed of a full length figure of
Captain Burges receiving a sword from the hands of
•victory. In the other, . victory is placing a crown
of laurel on the tiead of the hero, who is represented
dying in thearms of Neptune. This is executed by
Rossi.
^^ To these has been lately added, a statue by
iSacon, erected hy tlie East India Company, in
honour of Sir 'William Jones; and two monuments
are now erecting near the north door ; of which
the one on the right hand is to the memory of Cap-
tani Westcot, and the other in honour of Captains
Moss and liiou.
Curiodtlek^
3
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LOVDCKf A^B ITS ElSTIEOfiS. $f
CuriesiHes which strangers, pftyfor stimg*
On enteringthe south door, there is a pair of stairs
Within a small door on the right hand, leading to
the cupola, and the stranger by paying two pencQ
may gratify his curiosity with a prospect from the
iron gallery at the. foot of the lantern, which in 9
clear day affords a fine view of the river, of this
whole metropolis, and all the adjacent country, in-
terspersed with pleasant villages.
The ascent to this gallery is by five hundred and
thirty-four steps, two hundred and sixty of which
are so easy that a child may ascend them without
difficulty I but those above are unpleasant, and
in some places very dark ; the little light that is
afforded, is, however, sufficient to show amazing
proofs of the wonderful contrivances of the archi-
tect. But as the first gallery, surrounded by a
stone ballustrade, affords a very fine prospect, ma-
ny are satisfied, and unwilling to undergo thie
fatigue of mounting higher. In the, asc^t to
the iron gallery may be seen the cone of brick-
work that supports the lantern with its ball an4
cross ; the outer dome being turned on the outside,
?nd the inner on the inside of the cone. The tim-
ber work, which at once supports the outer dome
and the cone, is also worthy of inspection.
On the stranger's descent be is invited to see the
whispering gallery, which will likewise cost two
pence; he here beholds to advantage the beautiful
pavement of the church, and from hence he has
the most advantageous view of the fine paintings,
in the cupola, which are now going to decay.
Here sounds are magnified to an astonishing degree j
the least whisper is heard round the whole circum-
ference; the voice of a person speaking softly
against the wall on the other side, seems as if he
stood
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69 HISTORY AND SUBVEY OF •
Stood at our ear on this, though the distance be-
tween them is no less than an hundred and forty
feet ; and the shutting of the door resounds through
the place like thunder, or as if the whole fabric
-was falling. To this gallery there is an easy ascent
for persons of distinction, by a most beautiful flight
of stairs.
The stranger is next invited to see the library,
the books of which are neither numerous nor va-
luable ; but the floor, which is formed of two thou*
sand three hundred and seventy-six small pieces of
pak, is artfully inlaid, without either nails or pegs,
and is not only neat in the workmanship, but
beautiful in appearance; and the wainscoting
and book-cases are not inelegant. The principal
things pointed out to the visitor, are, several beau-
.tifuUy carved stone pillars, some Latin manuscripts,
written by the monks eight hundred years ago,
and an illuminated manuscript, containing rules
ifor the government of a convent, written in old
English about five hundred years since: these, and
some other manuscripts, are in very fine preserva*
tiom Over the fire-place is a portrait of Dr,
Compton, the prelate that filled the sec during the
whole time of building the cathedral, who fitted up
the library at his own expense, and gave it to the
church.
The next curiosity is the fine model Sir Christo-
pher first caused to be made for building the new
cathedral. It was not taken from St- Peter's, at
•sRome, as is pretended, but was Sir Christopher's
ovirn invention, and the model on which he set the
highest value ; and it is greatly to be lamented
that this design was not executed; the superiority
of which becomes evident, on a comparison of the
inodel with the building. It is of one story only,
jipd, in every respect, much more simple than the
patbedral ;j
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LOKBON iLKD 1X8 ENYIEONS. 6^
cathedral ; while, at the same time, it possesses all
tliat elegance which results from the happiest uniou
of simplicity and variety. Here is also the model
of an altar-piece, which Sir Christopher intended
for thi^ cathedral, had his plan been followed.
He is next shewn the great bell in the south
tower, which weighs eighty-four hundred weigh^.
On this bell the hammer of the great clock strikes
the hour, and on a smaller bell are struck the quar-
ters. The great bell is never tolled, except on the
death of one of the royal family, the Bishop of Lon^
don, or the Dean of St. Paul's; and, when tolled, it
is the clapper, and not the bell, which is moved.
The clock-work is also very deserving of attention,
both for its magnitude, and the accuracy of the
workmanship.
Among the things shown, are. what are com-
monly called the geometry stairs, which are so art-
fully contrived, as to hang together without risible
support; but this kind of stairs, however curious
in theijiselves, are neither new nor tincommon.
The ascent to the ball is attended with some dif-
ficulty, and is encountered by few ; yet, both the
ball, and the passage to it, well deserve the labour.
The internal diameter of the ball is six feet two
inches, and it will contain twelve persons.
The cathedral church of St. Paul's is deservedly
esteemed the second in Europe, not for magnitude
only, but for beauty and grandeur. St. Peter's, at
Rome, is undoubtedly the first,' but, at the same
time, it is generally acknowledged, by all travellers
of taste, that the outside, and particularly the front,
of St. Paul's, is much superior to St. Peter's. The
two towers at the west end, though faulty in some
respects, are yet elegant, and the portico finely
marks the principal entrance. The loggia, crowned
\vith a pediment, with its basso relievo and statues,
:nfiake,
I
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7^ HTSTORT AKD ^CUTEY 6t ^
make, in* the t^'hde, a fine shape, whereat St. Pew
ten's h a straight line, without any breafc. The
dfome is extremely magnificent, and, by rising
higher than that at Rome, is seen to more advantage,
on a near approach. The inside, though noble,
falls short of St. Peter's. The discontinuing the
architrave of thegreat entablature over the arches, iir
the middfe of the aisle, is a fault architects cane
never forgive. Notwithstanding, without a criti-
cal examination, it appears very striking, especially
on entering the north or south door. The side
arstes, though small, are very elegant, and, rf it
does not equal St. Peter's, there is much to be said
in defence both of it and the architect, who was
t\ot pern>itted to decorate it as he intended, through
a want of taste in the managers, who seemed to
have forgot that it was intended for a national oma-
nient St. Peter's has all the advantages of paint-
nig and sculpture of the greatest masters, and rsr
Encrusted with a variety of the finest marbles j nor
cost being spared to make it exceed every thing of
Its kind. The great geometrical knowledge of the
architect can never be sufficiently admired; but
this can be come at only by a thorougli inspection
of the several parts.
For the farther satisfaction of thecniious reader,
we shall conclilde this article with an account of
the dimensions of St. Paul's cathedral, compared
with those of St. Peter's, at Rome ; the proportions
of the^ latter being taken from ihe authentic di-
mensions of the best architects of Rome, reduced
fo English measure.
The
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRO>'S. 71
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VOL. III. X.
The
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74 HISTOEY AHD SUKTBT QT
The extent of the ground-plot, on wbicli St,
Pauls cathedral stands, is two acres, sixteen perches,
twenty-three yards, and one foot ; and the whol^
expense of erecting this edifice, deducting thp sums
expended in fruitless attempts to repair the old ca-
thedral, amounted to seven hundred and thirty-six
thousand seven hundred and fift^-two pounds twq
shillings and three pence.
On the north side of St. Paul's church-yard is a
handsome edifice belonging to the pathedral, caUe4
the Chapter-house.
In this building the convocation of the prpvin<;e
of Canterbury formerly sat to consult about ecclcr
siastical affairs, and to form canons for the govern-
ment of the church ; but, though the upper and lower
House are called by the king's writ, at the commence*
ment of every session of parli^nient, ypt they arc
always prorogued as soon as they have chosen pro-r
locutors, and before thpy can have time to proceed
in the execution of any kind of business.
Fronting the east end of the cathedral is St.
Paul's-school, founded by Dr. John Colet, Dean of
St. Paul's, in the year 150p, for one hundred and
fifty-three boys to be taught free, by a master,
usher^ and chaplain. The founder directed, that
there should be paid to tbe upper master, a salary
of thirty-four pounds thirteen shillings ^nd four
pence; (o the under master, seventeen pounds six-
shillings and eight pence; and to the chaplain,
eight pounds per annum ; which, together with the
annual sum of thirty-eight pounds six shillings and
three pence balfpenny, for repairs, &a amounted
to one hundred arid eighteen pounds fourteen shil-
lings and seven pence halQ)enny, the sum total
with which the school was endowed; but by the
progressive improvement of the estate, the good
management of the Mercers* company, tp whoni
the
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the triist i$ committed, and some additional sums
left to the foundation, tiiese salaries are become
teiT considerable.
This school is at present governed by three mas-
ters, all of whom are clergymen, besides an assist-
ant to the head miister. The under master was
formerly chaplain, and read prayers in the school,
besides teachmg ; but the prayers are now read by
some of the senior scholars.
The original building was consumed by the fire
in 1666, soon after which the present one was
erected. It is a very handsome, though singular
edifice t the middle buildings in which is theschool,
is of stone; it is much lower than the ends, and has
only one series of windows, which . are large, and
raised to a considerable heighth ftom the ground.
Tlie center is adorned with rustic, and on the top
is a handsome pediment, in which are the founder's
arms placed in a shield; upon the apex stands a
figure, representing Learning. Under this pediment
are two windows, which are square^ and on each
side are two circular windows, crowned with busts^
and the spaces between them are handsomely orna-
mented in relievo. Upon a lerel with thtf foot of
the pediment runs, on either side, a handsome ba-
lustrade, on each of which is placed a laige bus^
with a radiant crown, between two flaming vases. ^
In the front of ilie building are written these
words: Schola Catechizationts Puskoruic
IN Christi opp: maximi pidc kt Bonis Li-
TERIS.
The buildings at each end are of bricks orna-
mented with stone, and are appropriated to the uses
of the first and second master. They are lofty and
narrow, consisting of three stories, each story of
three windows; the central windows are arched,
and those on each side rectangular. A fourth een-
tral
y
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f6 . ^UfORV AMD ^V^V%y 4NP
tral win<iow i$ cootioued aliove tb^e corni<sej $uft^
ported yvith scwUs, and over that a Isaluetrade.
The school within is spacious. It consisto of
eight classes, or forms; iu the first, the ebildren
learn tbeir rudiments ; ffooi tbeivcej apcordii^g to
their proficiency, they are^advanced untoth^ other
forms, till they rise to the esighth : whe&ce, beiog;
generally well instructed in Latin, Greek, and He*
brew, and, sometimes, in other oriental langua^GSy
they are remov^ to tli^ universities ; where tnej
lure allowed, from the foundation, thirty pounds^
per annum, for the first four years, and forty pounds
for thr^e years more, towards their maintenance.
At the west einl of St. Pauls church-yard i^
Ludgatenstreet, wbicli extends westward to Fleets
bridge.
Oa the D^rth side pf this street, in Stationers'-
court, is St^i<Nieiis'-hQil# This building stands oa
(the ^ite of a iKianaio?! which anciently belonged ta
the Dukes of ^r^tagne ; after which it was possessed
by the £^ls of Pembroke, and, in Queen Eliza*
hetb's tiine, by Henry, Lord Abergavei^ny. Finally,
it belonged to the Stationers' companyi who rebuilt
it of wo^, aiHl Viade it their hall. This building,
lu>wevef, sharod in tlie cwi^q^on caUmity of 1666^
a^d was su^cceeded by the present brick edifice^
which was newly fronted with stone, about two
years aga* It is a sp^ious, convenijEint building,
enlightened by a singly series of wimlows, over each
of* which is placed .a ne^t medallion. The entrance
is from a small paved court, enclosed with a dwarf
w»ljl, swrmounted by ^n iron railing. Beneath the
hali, and at the north end of it, are warehouses for
the company's stock.
At a small distance, west of Stationers'HCourt,
and on the same side of Ludgate-street, is the
parochial church of St* Martin, Ludgate; so
called
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LOVPOK AKD ITS ENVIM^NS. 77
called ivom its dedication to St. Martin, and itsir
vickaty to the old gate.
The fiatronage of tliis church, which is a rec-
toiy, was originaUy in the abbot and convent of
WestmiiaAter, in whom it continued till the sup-
jiiessicm of that nionastery by Henry V Ilf . who
erected Westminster into a bishoprick, and con«
feri^d it on the new bishop. That see^ however,
beiog disserved by Edward VI. Queen Mary, in
the year 1553, granted theadvowson of thischurcb
to the bishop of Lcmdoui and his successors, in
whom it still remains.
The old church was destroyed by the fire of
London, after which the present edifice was erected
en its ruins. It is a plain building, tolerably well
enlightened ; and tne steeple consists of a plain
tower, with a lofty spire raised on a substantial
arcade, on the summit of which rises the vane.
The IcBgth of this church. is' 66 feet, its breadth
57, the height to the roof 59 feet, and the alti*^
tude of the steeple 166 feet.
It was in digging the foundation for the new
church, after the fire of 1666, that the sepulchral
stone mentioned in VoL I. p. 14. was found, and
hence it is probable, that the site of this church
was formerly a Roman cemetery, and without the
original walls of London.
Adjoining tothe southwest corner of the church
of Sl Martin, stood Ludgate ; and directly opposite
to it, within the walls, stood the great house of
llie Dominicans, called the convent of the Black*
friars, or Friars- preachers; founded about the
year 1S76, by the interest and exhortations of
Robert KiUvarby, Archbishop of Canterbury. Ed-
ward I. by whose assistance the archbishop was en*
abled to build the monastery and a large church
richly ornamented| kept his charters and records
here ;
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7S tttSirORY AND StfitVlEY 61f
here ; and in his time the precinct was croirded
with the habitations of the nobility. This mohas-^
tery obtained every immunity which any religious
house had. Its precinct, which was very extensive,
was surrounded by a wall with four gates, and con^L
tained a great number G^f sliops, the occupiers of
which exercised their trades and mysteries though
not free of the dity, being subject only to the King,
the superior of the house, and their own justices.
These ample privileges of the Blackfiriaiis precinct,
tho ugh now lost, were preserved long after the sup-^
pression of religious houses ; for when, afker the
dissolution of the priory, the itiayof interfered with
them, he was peremptorily cdralmanded to desist^
by Henrv VIII. who sent him word that ** He was
as well able to keep the liberties as the friars were :*'
and in the reign of Mary the citizens made a fruit-*
less application to parliament to grant them juris-
diction over the Blackfriars preciilct. At present,
it is included in the tvard of Farringdon within by
the name of the precinct of St. Anne, Blackfriars*
the church of which b^ing destroyed by the fire in
l66S, was not rebuilt, and the parish was annexed
to that of St Andrew Wardrobe.
The priory church was very large, two lanes and
the tower of Mountfitchet having been pulled down
to make way for it. In this church were held se-^
veral parliaments and other great meetings. The
parliament called the Black Parliament, was begun
at the Black-friars, in the year 1524, in which a
subsidy of two shillings in the pound on all goods
and lands was granted. In 152.9, Campeijus and
Wolsey sate at the Black-friars to annul the mar-
riage of Henry VIII. with Catherine of Arragon,
and in the month of October of the same year, the
parliament which condemned Wolsey in a prsmu^
nire, met here.
2 la
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XJOKWyS AKB ITS EKVIRONS. 79
In the fourth year of his reign, Edward VI,
granted the m hole house, site or circuit, compass
aod precinct of the late friars^preachers, with other
lands and tenements in London, to Sir Thomas
Cawarden, knight : but the hall and the prior's
lodgings had been sold in the first year of his reign
to Sir Francis. Brian, knight, being valued at forty
shillings per annum.
After the suppression of the monastery, and de^
molition of the church, the inhabitants of the
Blackrfriars jitted up an upper room 50 feet in
length, and 30 in breadth, for a place of diyine
worship ; great part of the roof of which fell down
in the year 1597. After this accident, the inha-
bitants obtained a piece of ground from Sir George
Moore, to enlarge their church with an aisle fifteen
feet in width on the west side ; under which they
erected a warehouse: and in I61S, the church was
again enlarged, after which the parishioners pur-
chased the unde/ tenements, but they did not pos-
sess them long, for in 166Q, the church was de-
stroyed by the fire, as has been already men-
tioned.
Withiij this precinct, on the east side of Water-
lane, stands Apothecaries Hall.
This is a very handsomBf^fouilding, with a pair
of gates in front that lead into a paved court ; at
the upper end of which is a grand flight of stairs
leading into the hall-rooin, which is built with
brick and stone, and adorned with columns of the
Tuscan order. The ceiling of the court-room and
pf the hall are elegantly ornamented with fret-work :
the wall is wainscotted fourteen feet high, and
adorned with the bust of Dr. Gideon Delaun, apo-
thecary to King James L and with several pieces of
exceeding good painting ; among which are por-
traits of King James I. and of the gentleman w lio
procured
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•0 HIStOKT AND SURYST 09
procured their charter, and who had been obliged
to leave France for religion.
In this building are two large laboratories one
for chemical, and the other for nlenical pre{ia-
lations ; where great quandtieft of the best medi*
cines are prepared for the use of apothecaries and
others ; particularly for the surgeons of the royal
navy, who here furnish their chests with all usotiI
«nd necessary nedicineg.
CHAP, xxv;
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LONDON And Its ENTIROMS. H
CHAP. tXV.
Of Bread'Sifeet Ward. — Bounds. — Precincts. --^Principal
Streets.^'- Allhcdlowsy BrecLd-street. — St. John the Evan-
feUst^ — "St. ^Mildredf Bread-street. — St. Margareiy
4oses. Cordwainers-halL — ^Gerrard's Hall -Wn.— ^
Goldsmith* s RoWk
Bread-street ward takes its name from the
principal street in it, where formerly was held the
Bread-market ; in which the bakers were obliged
to sell the bread openly and not in shops, as ap-
pears by an order, dated in the 30th of Edward I.
This ward is bounded on the north and north-
west by the ward of Farringdon within ; on the
east, by Cord wainer's- ward;, on the south, by
Queenhithc-ward; and on the west, by Castle
Baynard-ward.
It is divided into thirteen precincts, and is
governed by an alderman, twelvecommon-council-
men, thirteen constables, thirteen inquest men,
and a beadle.
The principal-streets and places in it are, Wat-
ling-striet, Bread-street, Friday-street, DistafF-
lane, Basing-lane, >vith the east side of the Old
Change, from the corner of St. Austin's gate to
Old Fish-street ; and the north side of Old Fish-
street and Trinity-lane, with part of the south side
ofCbeapside, betwixt Friday-street, andSt.Mary-
le-bow church.
Bread-street is a well built, open street, on the
east side of which, at the corner of Watling-street,
is the parish church of AUhallows, Bread-street.
This church received its name from* being dedi-
cated to all the samts, and its situation. It is a
rectory of very ancient foundation ; the patronage
of which was originally in the prior and canons of
VOL. III. M Christ-
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89 HISTORY AND SyRVEY Of
Christ-church in Canterbury, who remained patrons-
of it till the year 1 365, when it was conveyed to the
Archbishop of Canterbury and his successors, in
whom it still continues, and is one of the peculiars
belonging to that see in the city of tendon.
The old church being destroyed ^' the fire of
London in 1666, the present edifice was erected in
1684, at the expense of the public ; and serves not
only for the accommodation of the inhabitants of
its own parish, but likewise for those of St John
the Evangelist, which is annexed to it by act of
parliament. This church consists of a plain body,
of the Tuscan order, seventy-two feet in length,
thirty-five in breadth, and thirty in height to the
roof; with a square tower eighty-six feet high, di-
vided into four stages with arches near the top. The
inside is handsomely wainscoted and pewed, the
pulpit finely carved, the sounding board veneered,
a neat gallery at the west end, and a spacioua altar-
piece well adorned and beautified.
The parish church of St John the Evangelist,
stood at the north east comer of Friday-street, in
Watling-street ; but being burnt in the fire of Lon*
don it. was not rebuilt. It is a rectory, founded
about the same time as Allhallows, and was also in
the gift of the priory of Christ-church, Canter*
bury, till it was conveyed with that church to the
Archbishops of Canterbury, who still retain it.
The site of the old church is now a burial place for
the use of the parishioners ; and though the parish
consists of no more than twenty-three houses it
]ias a separate vestry, and two churchwardens.
On the same side of Bread-street, south of Basiog-
lane, stands the parish church of St. Mildred,
Bread-street ; so called from its situation, and its
dedication to St. Mildred, niece to Penda^ King of
the Mercians^ who having devoted herself to a
religious
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 83
religious life, retired to a convent in France, froiti
whence she returned, accompanied by seventy vir-
gins, and founded a monastery, in the Isle of Tha-
net, of which she died abbess, in the year 676.
It is a rectory, founded about the year 1300, by
Lord Trenchant, of St. Alban's: but it had neither
vestry-room nor church-yard, till 142J^, when Sir
John Chadworth, or Shadworth, by his will, gave
a vestry-room, and church-yard to the parishioners,
and a parsonage house to the rector.
The old church was burnt down in 1666, and
the present building was erected in 1683. It con-
sists of a spacious body, enlightened by one large
window on each of the four sides, with a circular
roof. The length of the church is sixty-two
feet, its breadth thirty-six feet, the height of
the side walls fortv feet, and to the center of
the roof, fifty-two feet. At the south-east corner
is a light tower, divided into four stages ; from
whence rises' a tall spite, the altitude of which is
one hundred and forty feet. The front of it is
built of free-stone, but the other parts of brick :
the roof is covered with lead, and the floor paved
with Purbeck-stone. Within is a neat wainscot
gallery, and the pulpit is enriched; the altar-piece
is handsomely adorned, and the communion-table
stands upon a foot-piece of black and white marble.
The advowson of this church was anciently in
the prior and convent of St. Mary Overy's, in
Soutbwark, by whom it was granted, in the year
1533, to John Oliver, and others, for a term of
years ; at the expiration of which it came to Sir
Nicholas Crisp, in whose family, or assigns, it still
continues.
When the present edifice was built, it was made
Srochial for this parish and that of St. Margaret
OSes ; the church of which stood at the south-
west
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84 HTSTORV AND SURVEY OF
west corner of Little Friday-street, opposite to Dis-
tafF-Iane, and was thus named from being dedicated
to St. Margaret) and from one Moses, or Moysea^
who had formerly rebuilt it ; but, suffering by the
^re in 1666, it wa^ not again rebuilt.
It is a rectory, and was numbered among the
most ancient fpundations in the city ; for, in the
year 1 J 05, it was given, by Robert Fitzwalter, to
the priory of St. Faith, at Housham, or Horsham,
in the county of Norfolk : which gift being con-?
firmed to tbem, h\y a bull of Pope Alexander III.
in the year 1 163, it was possessed by thjC prior and
canons, till the suppression of their convent by Ed-
ward III. as an alien priory, when this church fell
to the crown, in which the patronage has conti-
nued to this day.
^ One part of the site of this church was sold to
the city, by virtue of an act of parliament, for the
purpose of widening the street, between Friday-f
'Street and Bread-street; and the money arising
from the sale, was applied towards paving and beau^
tifying the church of St. Mildred: the other part
was reserved for a buriaUplace for the parish of St.
Margaret.
On the north side of Distaff-lane is Cordwainers'-
hall; a handsome convenient building, consisting
of se^veral rooms, the principal of which contains
portraits of King William and Queen. Mary. A
new stone front has been lately added to this build*
ing; over the center window- of which is a mc^dal-
lion, representing a country girl, spinning with a
distaff, in allusion to the name of the lane ; and at
the top is a carving of the company's arms.
Gerard 's-halWnn, on the south side qf JBasing-
lane, is built upon the remains of a mansion-house,
formerly belonging to the ancient family of Gysors,
some of \yhom served the principal ofliices in the
inagistracy
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U>NDON XKO ns ENVIRONS. 95
magistracy of this city ; and in those days it was
called Gysor s-ball. John Gysor, mayor of Lon-
don, was owner of it in the year 1245, and, by de-
scent, it came to another of the same name, in
1386, who made a feoffment of it. From this cir*
cumstance it may be reasonably conclndedy that
the present appellation of Gerard's^ball, is no more
than a corruption of Gysor Vhall. Some curious
remains of the ancient building are still to be seen
UBder the house, where is an old arched vault, sup-
ported by nine pillars. This vault was formerly of
greater extent, but a part of it has been lately w.al-
led off for the use of the adioining house.
In that part of Cbeapside which is within this
ward, stood a beautiful set of houses and shops,
called Goldsmith*s-row. This row of houses was
built by Thomas Wood, goldsmith, one of the she-
riffs of London, in the year 1491. It contained,
in number, ten dwelling-bouses, and fourteen
shops, all in one frame, uniformly built, four sto-
ries high, beautified, towards the street, with the
Goldsmiths'-arms, and the likeness of woodmen, in
memory of his name, riding on monstrous beastis ;
all which were cast in lead, and richly painted over
and gilt. These he gave to the Goldsmiths, with
a stock of money, to be lent to young men who
inhabited the shops. The front was again new
painted and gilt, in the year 1593, Sir Richard
Martin being mayor.
CHAP. XXVI.
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86 HISTORY AJTD SUEVkT OV
CHAP. XXVL
Of Queenkithe JVard.-^-Bounds. — Precincts. ^■'^Prmcipal
Streets. — Trinity the Less.^^Oerman Lutheran Church^
^St. Nicholas Coleabbey. — St. Nicholas Oktve. — Si^
Mary Somerset. — Si. Mary MomUhaw^i'^St. Michael,
Queenhithe. — Queenhithe.''^Painter*Stainers* Ho//.— -
Blacksmiths' HaU.
This ward takes its name from a water-gate, or
harbour, anciently called £dred*s Hithe, and after-
wards the Queen's Hi the. It is bounded on the
cast by Dowgate-ward, on the north by Bread-street
and Cordwainer-street*wards» on the west by Castle
Baynard'ward, and on the south by the Thames.
It is divided into nine precincts, and is gpverned
by an alderman, six common-council-men, nine
constables, thirteen inquest>men, and a beadle.
The principal streets in this ward, are. Knight*
rider's-street, Old Fish-street, Thames-street, Great
and Little Trinity-lane, Bread-street-hill, and Lam*
beth-hill.
At the north*-east corner of Great and Little
Trinity-lanes stood the parish church of Trinity the
Less; so called from its dedication to tlie Holy
Trinity, to M'hich the additional epithet of Less
was added, to distinguish it from the priory of the
Trinity, at Aldgate,
This parish is a rectory, the patronage of which
was in the prior and canons of St Mary Overy's,
in Southwark, until their dissolution; when, coming
to the crown, it was soon afi^r granted to the Dean
and Chapter pf Canterbury, in whom it still re-
mains.
This
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LQilDOH AND ITS SHTUOM. Vf
The chttfch was burnt ia the fire of London, but
not being rebuilt, and the parish being annexed to
that of St. Michael, Queenhithe, some German
merchants purchased the sfte of it, in order to erect
a church, for the celebration of divine service ac«
cording to the. Augustan, or Lutheran confession;
since which time^ this has been their place of pub-
lie worship.
On the south side of Old Fish-street, at the isomer
of Labour*in-vain-hiU, stands the parish church of
St. Nicholas, Coleabbey; which is so denominated
from being dedicated to St Nicholas, Bishop of
Mera ; but the reason of the additional epithet ia
not known ; some conjecturing it to be a corruption
of Golden-abbey, and others, that it is derived
from Cold*abb^, or Coldbey, from its cold or
bleak situation. It is known that there was a
church in the same place, before the year 1377,
when, according to Stow, the steeple, and south
aisle, which were not so old as the rest of the
church, were rebuilt ; but the last structure being
consumed in the great conflagration in 1666, the
present church was built in its places and the parish
of St. Nicholas, Olave, united to it
This edifice consists of a plain body, built of ^
stone, well enlightened bv a single range of win«^'
dows. It is sixty*three feet long, and tbrty-three
feet broad ; thirty-six feet high, to the roof, and
one hundred and thirty-five to the top of the spire*
The tower is plain, but strengthened with rustic
at the comers ; and the spire, which is the frus*
tnim of a pyramid, and covered with lead, has a gal-
leiy, and many openings. This was the first church
built and completed after the fire.
The advowson of this rectory was anciently in
the Dean and Chapter of St Martin's-le*Grand;
but, upon the grant of that collegiate church to the
Abbot
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8S strroRT AKD strnvrir o»
Abbot and Canotts of* Wcstmioster^ tbe patrdndge
devolved to that convent, in whom it continued
till the dissolution of their monastery ; when, com-
ing to the crown, it remained therein till Queen
Elizabeth, in the year I J60| granted the patronage
thereof to Thomas Reeve, and George Evelyn, and
their heirs, in soccage, who conveying it to others,
it came, at last, to the family of the Hackers, one
whereof was Colonel Francis Hacker, commander
of the guard that conducted Kins^ Charles I. to
and from his trial, and, at last, to tne scaffold ; for
which, after the Restoration, he was executed as a
traitor, when the advowson reverted to the crown,
in whom it still continues.
The church of St. Nicholas, Olave, stood on the
west side of Bread-street-hili, where the church-
yard now is. It is a rectory, of very ancient foun-
dation, as is evident from Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of
LondoD, having given it to the Dean and Chapter
of St. Paul's, about the year 1172» in whom it still
continues. The additional epithet is supposed to
be derived from Olave, or Glaus, King of Norway.
. Thames-street runs through the heart of this
ward, and contains, on the south side, several lanes
that lead down to Wood-wharf, Broken-Wharf,
Brooker's-wharf, Brook's-wharf, C^oeenbitbe, and
other places, on the Tham^^-^ide ; on which ac-
count this divison is greatly thronged with carts
employed in carrying goods and merchandise.
In this street, opposite Broken-wharf, is situate
the parish church of St Mary, Somerset.
This church is so called from its dedication to
tlie Virgin Mary, «nd its situation ; the word
Somerset being supposed only a corruption of
Somers-hithe, from some small port, or hithe, so
called from the owner of ic being of the name of
Somers.
2 It
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LOHDOK AVD ITS BKTIR0R8- t9
It appears, by ancient records, that a church
was situated on this spot before the year 13S5.
The old church, however, sharing the common fate
of 1606, the present structure was soon after erected
in its stead. The body of this edifice is enlight*
cned by a range of lofty arched windows, and the
wall is terminated by a balustrade. The tower is
square, well proportioned, and rises to a consi**
derable height : it is crowned at each corner with
a handsome vase, supported on a pedestal, with a
neat turret between, in the form or an obelisk, and
crowned with a ball. It is eighty-three feet in
length, thirty-six in breadth, and thirty in height,
to the roof, and the altitndie of the tower is one
hundred and twenty feet
The patronage of this church is in lay hands;
and, being united to St. Mary Mounthaw, which
is in the gift of the Bishop of Herefonl, they
present alternately to the living. The church
of St. Mary Mounthaw, which was destroyed by
the fire of London, and not rebuilt, was situated
on the east side of Fish- street-hill; and the spot
OQ which it stood is now used as a buriaKplace
for the |>arishioner8.
This church was also dedicated to the Virgin
Mary, and obtained its additional epithet front
having been formerly a chapel belonging to the
city mansion of the Montaltos, or Monthauts, c£
the county of Norfolk. This mansion, with the
chapel, was purchased by Ralph de Maydenstone^
Bishop of Hereford, about the year 18S4, who set-
tled lK>th on his successors in that see, whereby
they became possessors of the house, which they
used for their city residence, and of the patronage
of the chapel, which they have retained ever since.
It is not now known when, or by what means,
this chapel became converted into a parish church.
VOL. iir, N On
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90 0I8TOAT AXD SU&V£Y OW
On the same side of Thames-street, directly op-
posite to Queenhithe, is situated the parish church
of St Michael, Queenhithe; so called from its
dedication to St. Michael the Archangel, and its
situation near that hithe. It was formerly called
St. Michael de Cornhithe, all the corn brought to
London from the western parts of the country be-
ing landed here.
The earliest authentic mention of this church is
in the y6ar 1404, when Stephen Spilman, who had
served the offices of alderman, sherif}^ and cham«
bertain, died and left part of his goods to found a
chauntry here.
The old church being destroyed by the fire of Lon-
don, the present structure was erected in its stead.
It consists of a well-proportioned body, enlightened
by two series of windows; the first a range of tall
arched ones, and over them another range of large
port-hole windows, above which are cherubs
heads, and underneath ' festoons that adorn the
lower part, and fall between the tops of the under
series. The tower is plain, but well proportioned,
and is terminated by a spire crowned with a vane
in the form a ship. The length of this church is
seventy-one feet, its breadth forty, and its height to
thereof, which is flat and covered with tiles^ is
thirty-nine feet. The altitude of the tower and
spire, is one hundred and thirty-five.
The patronage of this church is in the Dean and
Chapter of St. Paul's, but it is subject to the arch* "
deacon. On its being rebuilt, the parish of Tri-
nity the Less was annexed to it ; and the patronage
of the latter being in the Dean and Chapter of
Canterbury, they and the Dean and Chapter of St.
Paul's present alternately to the united living.
Queenhithe, from which this church derives its
distinctive appellation, belonged in. old times to
one
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 91
one Edred, and was then called Edred's hithe ; but
felling into the hands of King Steplien, he granted
it by charter to William de Ypres, by whom it was
given to the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity
within Aldgate, subject to the annual payments of
twenty pounds to the hospital of St. Katharine;
one hundred shillings to the Monks of Bermondsey ;
and sixty shillings to the hospital of St Giles.
After this it came again into the Kings hands,
though by what means does not appear, and in the
reign of Henry HI. was called Ripa Reginae, or
the Queen's Hithe, the revenues of it being settled
upon her. In this reign orders Were repeatedly is-
sued to the constable of the tower, to seize the
vessels of the Cinque Ports and others, carrying
com and fish, if they were not brought to the
Queen's Hithe to be unloaded.
It afterwards came into the possession of the
mayor and commonalty of London, by grant from
Richard Earl of Cornwall, to John Gisors, then
mayor; which grant was confirmed by Henry III.
on the 26th of February, in the 31st year of his
reign : but it appears to have been repossessed by
the earl, at the death of the King ; for upon a
complaint from the citizens that it was wrongfully
detained from them, an inquisition M'as taken before
the King's Justices in the third of Edward I. who
restored it to the citizens, since which time the
charge of it has been committed to the sheriffs.
On the west side of Little Trinity- lane, is Painter-
stainers hall. This hall is adorned with a hand-
some screen, arches, pillars, and pilasters of the
Corinthian order, painted in imitation of porphyry,
with gilt capitals. The pahnels are of wamscot,
and the ceilings are embellished with a great variety
of historical and other paintings, exquisitely per-
formed;
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93 . HISTORY AND 8URVKY OF
formed ; amongst which are the portraits of King*
Charles II. and his Queen Catharine, by Mr,
Houseman; a portrait of Camden; a view of Lon-
don on fire in 1666; and a fine piece of shipping
by Monumea.
In the court room are some fine pictures, most
of which are portraits of the members of the com-
pany ; and in the front of the room is a fine bust of
Mr. Thomas Evans, who left five houses in Basing-
hall-street to the company.
Mr. Camden, the famous antiquarian, gave the
Fainter«stainers' company a silver cup and cover,
which they use every St Luke's day at tlieir elec-
tion ; the old master drinking to his successor out
of it. On the cup is the following inscription :
GuL. Cahdenos Clabenceux filius Samp-
80NIS PICTORIS LONDINENSIS DONO DEDIT.
On the west side of Lambeth-hill stands the ball
belonging to the company of Blacksmiths, a hand-
some brick building now gone to decay, being de-
serted by the company, and let out for a warehouse
to a cooper.
CHAP. XXVII.
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LONDC»r AND ITS ENVfRONS. 93
CHAP. XXVIL
Of Castle Baynard Ward* — Bounds. — P/ecmc/*.-— Prin- .
dpal'Streets. — Si. Bennet, Paul's Wliarf. — St. Peter^
PauVs JVharf.—The Herald's Collese.— Doctors Com-
nums. — St. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish-street. — St. Gre-
gory. — St. Paul s College. — Residence of the Bishops of
Lomdon^^^. Andrew, IVardrole.
This ward takes its name from a castle which
stood on the bank of the Thames, built by one
Baynard, a soldier of fortune, who came over with
M^illiam the Conqueror. He received many marks
of that 4cing's favour, and obtained from him the
barony of Little Dunmow, which being forfeited
to the crown, in the year Jill, by the- felonious
piactices of William Baynard, was given by Heury
to Gilbert, Earl of Clare, and his heirs, together
with the honours of Baynard's Castle. From him
ltdescended in the female line to Robert Fitzwalter,
who was castellan and banner-bearer of London,
in the year 1213; about which time there arose a
great contention between King John and his barons,
on account of Matilda, called The Fair, a daugh-
ter of the said Robert Fitzwalter, whom the king
unlawfully loved> but could not obtain ; for which,
and other causes of the like sort, a war ensuecl
throughout the realm. The barons, being received
into London, did great damage to the king; but in
the end the king was successful, and not only banish-
ed Fitzwalter, among others, out of the kingdom,
but likewise caused Baynard^s Castle, and two other
houses belonging to him to be demolished. After
which a messenger was sent to Matilda the Fair
about the king's suit; but she, not consenting to
it, was poisoned.
King
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94. * HISTORY AND SURVEY OP
King John being in France in the year 1214,
with a great army, a truce was made between the
two kings for five years. There being a river or
arm of the sea between the two armiesi a knight
among the English^ called out to those on the other
side to challenge any one among them to come
and take a just or two with him : whereupon,
without any delay, Robert Fitzwalter, who was
on the French side, ferried over, and got on horse-
back, without any one to help him, and showed
himself ready to face this challenger; and at the
first course struck him so violently with his great
spear, that both man and horse fell to the ground ;
and, when his spear was broken, he went back
again to the King of France. King John; seeing
this, cried out, " By God's tooth (his usual
oath) he were a king indeed who had such a
knight." The friends of Robert, hearing these
words, kneeled down, and said, '* O king, he is
your knight ; it is Robert Fitzwalter." Where-
upon he was sent for the next day, and restored to
the king's favour ; after which a peace was con-
cluded, and Fitzwalter was restored to his estates,
and had permission to repair his castle of Bay-
nard.
This Robert died, and was buried at Dunmov,
in the year 1234, and was succeeded by his son
Walter. After his decease, the barony of Baynard
was in the Wardship of King Henry, during the
minority of another Robert Fitzwalter, who, in
the year 130S, laid cliim to his rights before John
Blount or Blounden, the then mayor, in the fol-
Jowing terms.
'' The said Robert and his heirs ought to be and
are chief bannerers of London, in fee for the cas-
tellary, which he and his ancestors had, by Castle*
baynard in the said city. In lime of war the said
2 Robert
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LONDON AND (TS ENVIRONS. 95
Robert and his heirs ought to serve the city ia
manner as foUoweth : that is,
'* The said Robert ought to come, he being the
twentieth man of arms, on horseback, covered
with cloth or armour, unto the great west door of
St Paul's, with his banner displayed before him of
his arms. And, when he is so come to the said
door, mounted and apparelled as before is said, the
mayor, with his aldermen and sheriffs, armed in
their arms, shall come out of the said church of
St. Paul unto the said door, with a banner in his
hand, all on foot ; which banner shall be gules,
the image of St Paul, gold ; the face, hands,
feet, and sword, of silver: and as soon as the said
Robert shall see the mayol*, aldermen, and sheriffs,
come on foot out of the church, armed with such
a banner; he shall alight from his horse and salute
the mayor, and say to him, Sir mayor ^ I am come
to do my service which I owe to the city.
'^ And the mayor and aldermen shall answer,
fFe give toyou, as to our banneret of fee in this city,
the banner of this city, to bear and govern the honour
of tfiis city to your power.
'' And the said Robert and his heirs shall receive
the banner in his hands, and go on foot out of the
gate, with the banner in his hands; and the mayor,
aldermen, and sheriffs, shall follow to the door,
and shall bring an horse to the said Robert, worth
twenty pounds,^ which horse shall be saddled with
a saddle of the arms of the said Robert, and shall
be covered with sindals of the said arms.
'' Also they shall present to him twenty pounds
sterling, and deliver it to the chamberlain of the
said Robert, for his expenses that day. Then the
said Robert shall mount upon the horse which the
mayor presented to him, with the banner in Jiis
hand ;
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96 HISTORY AND SURYEY OF
hand; and, as soon as he is up, he shall say to the
mayor, that he must cause a marshal to be chosen
for the host, one of the city ; which being doae,
the said Robert shall command the mayor and bur-
gesses of the city to warn the commons to assem-
ble, and all go under the banner of St Paul ; and
the said Robert shall bear it himself to Aldgate,
and there the said Robert and mayor shall deliYer
the said banner of St. Paul to whom they think
proper. And, if they are to go out of the city,
then the said Robert ought to chuse two out of
every ward, the most sage persons, to look to the
keeping of the chy after they are gone out. And
this counsel shall be taken in the priory of the Tri-
nity, near Aldgate. And before every town or
castle which the host of London shkll besiege, if
the siege continue a whole year, the said Ro-
bert shall have, for every siege, of the common-
alty of London, one hundred shillings, and no
" These be the rights that the said Robert hath
in time of war. , ^. , ,
** Rights belonging to Robert Fitzwalter, and to
his heirs, in the city of London, in the time of.
peace, are these : , ^. , , ,
" That is to say, the said Robert Fitzwalter had
a soke or ward in the city, where was a wall of the
canonry of St. Paul, which led down, by a brew-
house of St. Paul, to the Thames, and so to the
side of the mill, which was in the water, coming
down from Fleet-bridge, and went by London-wali,
betwixt the friars-preachers and Ludgate, and so
returned by the house of the said friars, to the wall
of the canonry of St. Paul; that is, all the parish
of St. Andrew, which was in the gift of his ances-
tors, by the said seigniority ; and so the said Ro-
bert
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belt had, arppendant' ukito the md soke, all the
diings^ undeiviitten :
** Thathft oiiglit to have a sokeman, andto plhcd
what sokemab he Mri)l, so he be of the sok^manrj;^,
or the same ward; and if aiiy of the sokemanry be
impleaded^ in the (xuildhail, of any thing that
touchetfa not the body of the mayor that fbr the
time is, or that toucheth the body of no sheriff, it
is la^rf^ll fbr the sokeihan of tlie sokemanry of
the said Robert Fitzxiraltler to demand a court of the
said^ Robert; and the mayor; atid his citizens of
London, ought to grant him to have a court; and
in his court he ought to bring his judgments, as it
IS assented atid s^^d Upon in the Guildhall, that
shall be given himi
" If any, therefore, be taken in his sokemanry,
be ought tb have his stocks and imprisonment in
his soketi; and he shall be brought from thence to
the Guildhall, before the mayor, and there they
shall provide him' his judgment thlit ought to be
giinen of him; but his judguielit shall not be pub«
lished till he come into the court of the said Ro«
bart, and in^ his liberty.
'' And'the judgment shall be such, that, if he
have deserved death by treason, he to be tied to a
post in the Thames, at a good wharf, where boats
arefastbned; twoebbings and two flbwiugs of the
water.
*' And, if he he condemned for a common thief,
heoaght to be led to the elms, and there suifer his
judgment, a^ other thieves. AUd so the said Robert,
and bis heirs^ hath honour, that he holdeth a great
franchise withiii the city, that the mayor of the
city^ and citizens^ are bound to do hinl right; that
is'to say, that, when the mayor will hold a great
council^ he ou^t to call the said Robert, and his
heirs, to be wiUi bim in council pf the- city; and
VOL. III. o the
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98 KI970i|Y AND tCOlVBY Off
the said Rol^rt ought to be sworn to be of council
ivith the city, against all people, saving the king
and his heirs. And when the said Robert cometh
to the hustings of the Guildhall of the city, the
inavor, or his lieutenant, ought to rt&e against hioiy
andf set hini down near unto him;, and, so long a^
he is in tfie Guildhall, all the judgments ought to
be given by bis mouth, according to the record of
%he recorders of the said Guildhall; and so many
waifes as come so long as he is there, he ought to
five them to the bailiffs of the town, or to whoni
e wi:llj by the council of the mayor of the city."
The old castle was destroyed by fire, in 1428,
after wbich it was rebuilt by Humphrey, Duke of
Gloucester. At his decease, Henry VI. gave it to
JUchaFd^ Oukeof York, who resided here, with his
aj*med followers, to the number of four hundred,
duriug the important convention of the great men
of the nation, in 1458, the forenmnsr of the civil
wars, between the Houses of York and I^ncaster.
This was also the residence of Riclwd III. when
be took upon hJQi ibe tjtlre of king. It was after-
wards beautified, and made more commodious, by
Hen. V 1 1. who fre<i4ji^n.t]y lodged here ; and thie privy-
council met here, on the l^th of July, 1553,. for
the piir}>ose of piorlaiming Queen Mary ; at wbich
. tinie it was the property and residence o£ William
Herbtrt, Earl of Pembroke. But no trace now re^
mains of this anck^nt and magnificent building, the
scene of so many eventful transactions. The same
fate has attended the casrie of Montfitchet, and
another cjibtle. built by King Edward I L which,
from being afterMards. a^wropriated for the lecep*
tipn and resnleqce of the Pope's, legates, was. called
Jjegate's-inn ; and also BeaiunontVinn, afterwards
HyijtiugdoU'hou^ft a, very noble palace^ built ia
Tl»iD«sr^i««lj Pf>pQ^jb&St..]Patfii*srhiU; in the sath
of
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roKBoy aud its smriBONi* SO
of£d\7atd IV.; the city mansion of .the family of
Scnoop, on the wostside (»f PaulVvharf; Berkeley «
inn, or palace, in Addle-street; and the stately pa-
lace belonging to the priors of Okeburn, in Wilt-
shire, which stood in Castle^lcine, with many otheiB
of less note, in this neighborhood.
This waitl is bounded on the east by Queenhithe
and Bread»street-wards, on the south by the river
Thames, and on the west and north by the ward o£
Farringdon within.
It is divided into ten precincts^ and is governed
by an alderman, ten eommonK;ouncil*men, nine
constables, fourteen inquest'^men, and a beadle.
The principal streets and lanes in it are, the vest
end of Thames-street, St Peter's-hill, Bennett's^
hill. Sermon-lane, Carter-lane, Paurs*chain, part of
St Paul's church-yard, and the east sides of Crecd-
laae, A ^C'^mariarlane, and Warwick«lane.
At the south'^west corner of Bennrt's-hill, on
the north side of Thames^street, stands the parish
church of St. Bennet, Paurs«-wharf ; which is so
called from its dedication to St Benedict, and its
vicinity to the wharf. It is of very ancient
fimndation, and appears in the register of Diceto,
Dean erf St. PauFs, under the year 1181. The dis*
tiognishing epithet has, however, been frequently
changed ; for it has been called St Bennet, Huda
and St Bennet, Wood-wharf, as well as by its pre**
sent appellation.
The old church being destroyed bj' the fire iti
1666, the present one was erected in its stead, from
a design of &r Christopher Wren. It is a very neat
brick structure, ornamented with stone, and the
body is well proportioned. The tower, which is
also of brick, with rustic work in stone, at the cor*
ners, is surmounted by a dome, from whence rise a
turret and amall spire. The length of the chur ch
is
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100 WQROEY ANII OWTfiPIT 4W
h fifty^foor feet, its bfcadth fifty feet, (the faeigfat
of the roof tbirty«six &et, and ^that of the steeple
one hundred and eighteen feet.
It is a Tectory, the patronage of .whidi appears
^toiiaveiieen always in the Dean andiChapter .of
St. Paul's.
After the fiie, the parish of «t. Peter, PaulV
«rbarf, -the churoh ^f which was not rebuilt, ivas
annexed to ^this ^parish.
It is also a rectory, in the gift of the Dean and
IGhapter of St. Paul's, and of equal antiquity .with
-St. iBennet's parish, ibeing found in the'same reg;ift«
ter; but was anciently denominated St. Peters
iPanva, from the smollness of its dimensions, ^art
of .this parish is in this wacd, and part in that
of Queenbithe.
.On the east side of Btonet's-l^iU stands the He^
raid's college, or office. The old building, wimc
this office v^ kept, was destroyed by t£e fi^e ia
\66^ and, hy the act for rebuilding idie^ty, the
firesent edifice wsas to haxe been begun in Jtbces
^y ears after. Tlie estimate of the expense for buildisi^
it amounted to &ve tliousand pounds, but the4:fiM>
pocation noti)e;ing able to disc^i^ d>at.sum, pe^
-citioned his jnajesty for a commission to receive the
-subscriptions of the nobility and genl^y. This pie«
tidon was refened to the jcommissioners for eaoe^
cut^ng tiie office of jearUmarsiiai ; and, upon theiv
report, was granted on the 6th of Decembef, 16%S.
fiut the connmssipn diisecting the money collected
to lie paid to ^och persoiis, and laid out in sach a
manner, as the eartmarsiml should appoint, so di&-
g^usted the officers, that it caused a coolness in
them to promote tiie subscription; in consequracc
of 3^vliich, though they had reason to hope for
large contributions, little more than five hundnui
^unds were taisoL What sums were &rther.iu£es«-
sary^
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LCWIHMr iJMB ns XHmBOM. tOt
-«i7»^wne'nuuk up out cyf tlie fftneai jfees and |h»-
fits of the office, or by Jhejeontribiitioii of^ftmcn^
-kr raembeis.
The novtli-wert'Conierof this builditig wu^ect-
^ at tiie sole chasge of Sir (ViUiain Du^ale ; mA
'Sir Hemy fit Greorge, ClaKociettx, gave the pro*
fits of some visitations made bg^ideputies apfMUn^jsA
by him for that puqiofie, amoummg to fiye kiiii-
dved and thirty pounds.. Tbe houies on the east
s^ide, and south-east comefi were eiectad upon a
building leasee agreeable to the original plan; bf
which means the wbole was made one uniform
^quadrangular buikUng as it aow appears. It is a
very liandsome and weU designed eoifice; and the
liollow arch of the gateway is^steemed'a gi«at curio*
-sity*
Tiie4;ollege bekig iiaisbed in die month of No*
v€iBffoer9 l<6S9y tbe rooms wepe divided amongst
tbe oi&oei« aecordiag to their degrees, by mutuai
agreement, which was afterwards confirmed by iht
eari*marsbal ; and these apartments have been ever
since annexed to the respective offices. The m-
aides of the apaxtments were finished at different
tifiies by the officers to whom they belonged.
Hien-ont of this buiMing is ornamented with
nistiey OB which are placed four Ionic pilasten
tiiat support an angular pediment. The sides,
whichare conformable to this, have arched pedi*
ments, which are also supported by Ionic pilas-
ters. Within is a large room for keeping the
eourt of honour; as also a library, with houses
and apartments for the king's heralds and pur-
suivants.
This corporation consists of thirteen members,
Vi^. three kings at arms; six lieraids at arms; and
four pursuivants at arms. Tl>ey are nominated by
the £arl*marsbal of England, as ministers subor^
din ate
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lOS jiieioKy Asm tcmvsT of
4)mate to him m the execotiiNi of their ofiices, and
hoid their pUoes by fiatODt.
Though these officers are of great antiquity, lit-
tle meBtkm is made of their tittes or names before
the time of Edward IIL In bis reign hemldry
mm m high esteem, aA appears by tlie patents of
the kings of arms, vhic^ refer to that period.
£dward IIL created the two Provincials, by the
titles of Clanencteuxand Norray : he also institut-
ed Wi&dsor and Chester iieraids, and btuemantle
pursuivant ; besides several others by. foreign titles.
Prom this time we find the officers of arms employed
Abroad and at home, both as militar}* and civilofficers :
•B military officers, with our kings and generals
in the army, carrying defiances, and making truceap
or attending at tilts, tournaments, or duels: as.civU
officers, employed iii negociations, and attending
our ambassadors in foreign courts : at home, waitr
ing on the king at court and parliament, and
directing all public ceremonies*
In the 5th year of ^e reign of Henry V. anng
vere regulated, soon after which that prince insti-
tuted the office of garter king of arms ; and at
a chapter of the kings and heraids, held at the siege
of Rouen, in Normandy, on the 5th of January,
1420, they formed themselves into a regular society,
with a common seal, receiving garter aa their
chief.
The first charter of incorporation was granted by
King Richard IIL who assigned them a proper o^
fice and residence. This charter was afterwards
confirmed by Edward Vli and Queen Mary, the
latter of whom not only incorporated theui agatn«
but also granted them the messuage or house called
Derby-place, which form'erly belonged to the Earl
of Derby, and was the building destroyed by the
fire of London.
The
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Tlie kiogs at arms are distinguLshed by t&e foK
lowing titles ;
Garter,
Clarendeuxy
Norroy.
The office of garter king of arms was iDstitutsai
by King Henry V. for the service of the most no*
ble order of the garter; and, for the dignity of
that ofdei), he was made sovereign, within thr
office of arms, over all the otlier oificers, sahject
to the crown of England; by the name of Garter^
king of arms of Englanri. By the constitution of his;
office he must be a native of England, and a gen-
tleman bearing arms. To him belongs the correc*
tian of arms, and ail ensigns of arms, usurped:
or Iwrne unjustly ; awl thepower of granling arras,
to deserving peFSOBiS, and suppiorters. to the nobility
aiui knights of the Bath. It is also his office to
go next before the sword in solann processk>n>. na
one tatenposinig except the marshal; ta administer
the oalh.to att the officers of anas ; to have a. habit.
Hke the register of the order, baron's service in the
eourt, and lodgings in WiudsoT'-Qaflitle: lie bearsr
his white rod, with a banner of tlie ensigns of the:
otrkt thereon, before the sovereign^. When any^
Uinh enters the parliament d^amber^. it is his posfe
t/^ assign him his place, according to his dignity^
and degree; to carry the ensign of the order toi
foreign princes, and to do, or procure to Ife done,,
what the sovereign shall enjoin relating to the order;
with other duties incident to his office of principat
king of arms..
The other two kings are called pcovincial kings,
who have pafticular provinces as^gned them,
w^Udit tc^tber comprise the whoje kingdom of
£agbnd;. that of Clarencieu^^ compreheioudin^ all
2 trom
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109 Hi>si!orv JiKD 8ini?np or
fidm the ri^er Trent smith wstfdy and that of NTor-
roy all from the river Trent northward.
These kings at arms are distinguished from eacli
other by their respective badges, which they may
wear at all times, either in^ gold chain or a ribbon,
garter's being blue, ^nd the provincial^ fforple.
The kings of arms were originally created by the
sovereign^ with great solemnity, oh some high
festival; but, for a considerable^ time pas^ they
have been cr6atediby the earl mal%hal, by virtue of
the soi'creign 'swarran t When one of these officers
is* created, he takes his- oath ; wine i% poured upon
his head out of agilt cup; his title is pronounmt ;
and' be invested with a< tabard of the royal aM*ms*
richly embroidered upoU'Velvet; a collar of SS. with
two portcuHisses of silver gilt; a gold chain; witli
»badge of his office.; and the eari-marshal places
on his head the cro\rn of a king of arms^ which
fiMinerly resembled a ducal coronet; but, sinoc^
Ae restoration in has been adorned with leaves re-
sembling those of the oak^ and circumscribed ivith
these words, Misehzrk mec Decs secukdom
VAONUM MfSERicoRDiABi* TUAM. Garter has
also a mantle of crimson satin, as an officer of ttie
order ; with a white rod or sceptre^ with ' the sove-.-
reign's arms on thetop^ mdiich he bears in the pre-
sence of the sovereign; and he is sworn ina chap-»
ter of the garter^ the sovereign in\xsting^ him
with the ensigns pf his office.
The heralds at arms are distinguished by thQ
following titles :
Somerset, Windsor,
Richmond, Chester;
Lancaster, York;
These six heralds take place according to senU
prity. They are created with the same cerempny
9^
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LbkodK AKd Its Ef^TiaotiSi lOi
&s tlie kings, taking the oath of an herald, and
cire invested with a tabard of the royal arms em*
broidered upon satin, not so rich as the king's^
but better than the pursuivants> and a silver collar
ofSS.
The kin^ and herakts ate swdhi tipon a sWord
as vreil as a book, to show that they are military as
well as civil officers.
The Putsuivapts^ i^fe ,
Rouge DragoD> Portcullis^
Blue Mantl^ Rouge Croi^c^ .
These are also created by the earl-mai-sbal, and
when they take their oath of pursuivant are invested
with a tabard of the royal arms upon damask. It is
the duty of the heralds and pursuivants to attend
in the public office) one of each class together^ in
monthly rotation.
It is the general duty of the kings, heralds and
pursuivants to attend his majesty at the house of
peers, and, upon certain febtivals, at the chapel
royal; to make proclamations; to marshal the
proceedings at all public processions; to attend the
installation of the knights of the garter, &c«
These heralds are all the king's servants in ordi-
nary i and therefore, whenever it happens that the
earl-marshal is absent, they are sworn into their
offices by the lor4'-chamberlain»
Their meetings are termed chapters, which they
hold once a month, oroftenjcr if necessary, wherein
all matters are determined by a majority of voices
of the kings and heralds, each king having two
voices.
These officers, as before observed, have apart-
luents in the college annexed to tlieir respective
offices* They have also a public hall^ in which
the earl-marshal occasionally holds courts of chi-
valry. Their library contains a large and valuable
VOL* zii. p eoUection
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}0t mmoET A^B mm^v9' o¥
€oUefti0n^f origmal records of tfhc pedigrees and
y ms^ of families, funeral certificates of the nobilitjf
and gentry, public ceremonials^ and other branches
ef heiaWry and antiquitie»v
The arms of the college and corporation are;
argent, St. Gcorge*s^ cross between four doves
d2ure, one wkig open to fly, the other close, with
this motto, DILIGENT AND SECK«T. CfCSt^ a
dove rising on a- ducal coronet. Supporters, on
either side- a lion guardant ai-gent, gorged with
a ducal coronet. These arnis^ crest, and' sup-
porters are upon the common seal, thus circuin-
scrihed, Sigillum commune Corporathnis Officii* Ar^
Opposite the north-west comer of the llerald>
Olli<?e is a pftssage Hiat leads into Doctors' Com-
mons.
. This is a' college for such as study and practise
the civil law; and here causes in civil and ecclesias-
tical cases are tried under the Bishop of London,
and tht Archbishop of Canterbury. The addition
of comnwns is taken from the manner in which
the civilians live here, comnioning together, a»
practisedin other colleges.
The front of this college, which is an old brick
buildings, is in Great Knightrider-strcet; and it
consists of two square courts, chiefly inhabited by
doctoi's- of the civil law. Here are tried all causes
by the court of admiralty, and the court of dele-
gates. Here are offices where wills are registered
and deposited; and licences for marriage, &c arc
granted, and a court of faculties and dispcusa*
tionsL
The causes, whereof tlie civil and ecclesiastical
law take cognizance, are these; blasphemy, apos-
tacy from Christianity, heresy, schism, ordina-
tions; institutions of clerks to benefices, celebra-
tion
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IIOK0D1I ASay m wmvam. lOf
tton fif div'fne service, matrtmony, divorces^ boi*-
tardy, tythcs, oblations, obv^ntiotis^ iDortiiaPte%
dihtpiilationsy .reparation of churclies, probate of
wills, administrations, simony^ incests, fornica
tioQs, aduheries, sc^Ucitation of chastity, p?n-
saoDs, pruouiations, commutation of penance,
right of pews, and other such like, veducibhe to
these inalters.
There are many courts belonging to the civil and
ecclesiastical law; the most particular of wkidi
are these:
1 . The Court of Arches. This court takes its name
from Bow-chttrch, which was originally built upon
arches, and in which it first sat for the dispatch of
business. It is the highest court under the juris-
diction of the Archbishop of Camterbury. Here all
appeak are directed in ecclesiastical matters within
tbe province of Canterbury. The judge of this
court is stiled tbe Dean of the Arches, because ht
hoids a jurisdiction over a deanery in London, con-
sisting of tliirteen parishes, exempt from the Bishop
of London's jurisdiction. The oiiieers under this
judge are, an examiner, an actiiwry, a beadle or
crtei', and an apparitor ; besides advocates^ and
Itrocurators or proctors.
2. TJie Prerogative Court This court is thus
denominated from tbe prerogative of the Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, who, by a special privilege
beyond those of his suffragans, can here try all
disputes that happen to arise concerning the last
wills of persons within his province, wlio have left
goods to the v-alue of five pounds and upwards, un-
iess sjhcb tbsage ai-e settled by compositfou between
the jneti*opi>litati and his ^uflVagatis; M in the dio-
cese of LoihIqh, where it is ten pounds. To this
court belongs a judge, who is sftfled Judet Cnrke
FrtrogatipiB Cuntuarienm; and 9 r^git^e/, who
hath
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108 HISTORt AND SURVEY OF
hath convenieot rooms in his office, for the dis^
posing and laying up safe all original wills aiid
testaments. This register also hath his deputy,
besides several clerks.
S. The Court of Faculties and Dispensations*
This court can empower any one to do that which,
in law, he could not otherwise do, viz. to marry
without the publication of banns; to succeed a
father in an ecclesiastical benefice ; to hold two or
more benefices ; to hold two or n^ore benefices,
incompatible, &c. This authority was given to
the archbishop by the Statute 35 Henry VIII. cap.
SI. And the chief officer of this court is called
Magisterad Facultatcs; under whom is a register
and his clerks.
4. The Court of Admiralty. This court waa
erected in the reign of Edward III. and, in former
times, kept iu Southwark. It belongs to the Lord
High Admiral of England, and takes cognizance
of all trespasses committed on the high seas, and
all matters relating to seamen's wages, &c» The
judge of this court must be a civilian, and is called
Supremof curke admiralitatis anglias locum tenensju--
dfuv. Under the judge is a register and marshal,
.the latter of whom carries a silver oar before th^
judge, besides an advocate and proctor. This
court is held in the hall of Doctors* Commons,
where the other civil courts are kept, except in'
the trial of pirates, and crimes committed at ^a;
on which causes the Admiralty Court sits at the
Sessions- house in the Old Bailey,
5. The Court of Delegates. This is the highest
court for civil affairs belonging to the church, to
which appeals are carried from the spiritual courts ;
for upon the s^bolishing of the papal power withiu
this kingdom, by Henry VIII. in the year 1534,
)t W4S enacted b^ parliamenti th^t qo appeals should
from
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UbVDOV AND ITS ENVIROlCg, , 109
from thenceforward bemade to Rome : and in default
of justice in any of the spiritual courts, the party
aggrieved might appeal to the king, in his court of
chancery, upon which a commission under the
freat seal, snould be directed to such persons as
is majesty should think fit to nominate. These
commissioners, to whom the king thus delegates •
his power, generally consist of noblemen, bishops,
and judges, both of the common and civil law ;
and; as this court is not fixed, but held occasion-
ally, these commissioners, or delegates, are varied
at the pleasure of the lord chancellor, who appoints
them* No appeals lie from this court; but, upon
good reasons assigned, the lord chancellor may
grant a commission of review.
Tlie practisers in these courts are of two sorts,
viz* advocates and proctors.
The advocates are such as have taken the degree
of doctor of the civil law, and are retained as coun-
aellers or pleaders. These must, first, upon their
petition to the archbishop, obtain his fiat; and
then they are admitted, by the judge, to practise:
The manner of their admission is solemn. Two
senior advocates, in their scarlet robes^ with
theif mace carried before them^ conduct the doctor
tip the court with three reverences, and present
him with a short Latin speech, together with the
archbishop's rescript j and then, having taken the
oaths, the judge admits him, and assigns him a
place or a seat in the court, which he is always to
keep when he pleads. Both the judge and advo-
cates, if of Oxford, wear, in court, scarlet robes,
and hoods lined with tafFaty; but, if of Cam-
bridge^ white minever, and round black velvet caps.
The proctors, or procurators, exhibit their proxies
for their clients; and make themselves parties for
them
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J 40 H|S70E¥ AKD SV^VfY OF
thetti, and draw and give pleas, or libels und all««-
gation^i in their behalf; prodwoe witBCsses, prepare
causes for «eirte4ice, and attend the advocates with
the proceedings. These are also admitted by tli«
archbishop's fiat, and introduced by two senior
proctors. They wear black robes and hoods lined
with fur.
The terms for the pleading and ending of causes
in the civil courts are hut little different fronrtbe
term times of the common law. Tlie order, as 'to
the time of sitting of the several courts, is as fal-
lows: Tl>e court of arches having the pre-cani-
nence, sits first in the jnorniog : the court of ad-
miralty sit« in the afternoon, on the same day ; jami
the prerogative court sits also in the afternoon.
In this collie is a Jibrafy, well stocked wnth
books of all sorts, especially in civil law and his-
tory ; for which they are greatly indebted to James
Gibson, Esq. who g^ve a great number of the
books, and to the benefoctions given by every bi^-
$hop at his consecration, to pwchase books for ihta
library.
This learned body was originally '^situated in
JPaternoster^row ; but tha4: situation being found
very inconvenient, Dr. Henry Harvey, DeaB of jhc
Arches, purchased and provided a large bouse in
Knightrider-streett, which, at that tittk, w^ an old
stQne building, belonging to, aad let out by, the
Canons of St Paul's.
The present college was built upon the ruins of
that house, which was bnrnt down in the generail
conflagration of this city, in 1665; on which oc-
Casio^i, the business of the institution was tranf-
ferred tcv (^<)d cai ricd on at Exietedochapge, in the
^trand, till the new college \Ka8 finished in a more
convenient and elegant manner.
On
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LOKDjOM AlCD rrft EtTYlltaKS. Ill
On the ftorth side of Knightridcr^strcct, at the
^est corner of the Olcl Change, standi the parish
charch of St, Mary Magdalen, Old Fish-sti-eet; so
caliM from its dedication to that saint, and its an*
crent situation in the fish-market, the principal
part of which was in that street.
ITiis church w^s a Vicarage, in the tenure of the
canons of St. Paurs, in the year 1181; but for
some ages past, it has been a. rectory, in the gift of
the clean and chapter of St. PaaKs. The old edifice
was destroyed by the fire of London ; and the pre-
sent structure was erected in the year 1 685,
This is a small but well-proportioned church,
built with stone, and enlightened by a single series
of arched windows, each ornamented with ii cherub
and scrolls, supporting a cornice which runs round
the building ; but these windows are so high from
the ground, that the doors open completely under
them. The tower is divided into two stapjes, in
the upper of which is a large window on each sidb;
From tlie top of the tower the work diminishes, in
themanner of high steps, on each side; and on the
top of these is a turret, with a very short spire, on
which is placed a vase, with flames.
To this parish is annexed that of St. Gregory;
the church of which stood at tlie south-west corner
of St Paul's cathedral. It is a rectory of very an-
dent fbuudation, and tbok its name f\'om Pope
Gregory the Great, who sent Austin, the monk,
to convert the English nation to Christianity. The
patronage of Jt is in the Dean and ChafOrer of St:
Paul's, who are both patrons and ordinaridl. After
its dejtruction by the fire of London, the ground
on which it stood was laid inta St* Paul's church-
yard.
Behind, the.site of the demolished* church is. St.
Paul's. college, which* is a small cx^urt; consisting of
3 divers
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divers houseSi appropriated to the petty canons 0^
St. Paul's cathedral, who, in the 18th of RichardlL
obtained that king'^ letters patent) constituting;
them a body politic, by the name of the College
of the Twelve Petty Canons of StPauVs Church.
Facing this college, on the spot of ground now
called London-house yard, formerly stood the Bi*
shop of London's palace, a very large and magnifi-
cent house, which was destroyed by the fire of Lon*
don. In this palace King Edward V. was lodged,
when he was brought to London to take possession
of the crown.
On the east side of Puddle-dock-hill, near the
wharf, is the parish church of St Andrew, Ward*
robe.
This church is a rectory of very ancient founda*^
tion, originally denominated St Andrew, juxta
Baynard castle, from its vicinity to that palace t
but the ofiiceof the king's wardrobe being removed
to a house in Carter-lane, built bv Sir John de
Beauchamp, son to Guy de Beaucnamp, Earl of
Warwick, and afterwards sold to King Edward IIL
the site of which is now occupied by Wardrobe*
court, the distinctive appellation of this church
was changed.
It is very probable that this church was founded
about the same time as Baynard'8-castle> and per*
haps by the same nobleman ; for the advowsou was
anciently in the noble family of Fitzwalter, from
whom it passed through many hands, until the
year 1663, when it came to the crown, in which it
still ren)|iinjs ; but the parish of St. Anne, Black-
friars, being annexed to it after the fire ; the. right
of presentation is alternately in the crown and the
parishioners of St Anne.
The present structure was erected on the ruins
of the old one, in the year 1670. It is a handsome
building
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tOVDOir X»D ITS ENVnONS. 113
building of Jl>rick, ornamented with stone, and
supported by twelve pillars of the Tuscan order, in
allusion to the twelve apostles, to one of whom it
is dedicated. The body is enlightened by two rows
of windows, but the tower has neither turret, pin-
nacle, nor spire. The roof is adorned with fret-
trork of flowers, fruits, &c. The pews ate vcty neat,
and the walls well wainscoted, with two handsome
galleries, a carved pulpit, a veneered sounding-
board, and a very complete altar-piece« It is se-
vcnty.fi vc feet in length, fifty-nine in breadth, and
thu-ty-eight in height^ to the roof; and the alti«
tude of the tower is eighty-six feet.
VOL. Ill a CHAP. XXVIII.
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1)4 BlM01tY^MII» fSBTBY 0»
CHAK xxvm.
-^'Precincts. — pTindpaf Sfreets.-* — l'7^c/-irf«rft^^j— —
Fleel'ditch,—The Fleei Prhm. — Bridewell HosfiM.
^^'Dvrset'Sireet. — Salisbury -sq^tare. — S#. iM»9«**^
WhitePriars.-'SfiTywiUs^^Inn.'^AmkahUSoaiM
-^The TempU.r-^ttmjffle-hur.^SUTeriBme.^kanmp^
Une.r^Sfmmd:s-iw[i.— Chapel ojiie RqlU^^Cl^ff^rdTs^
inn.^^St, Dunsian in the tvest, — Scot's ffalL-^Petter^
lane. — Siafde's-inn,^^ Barnard^ s-inn. — TAatrlf'^tmi.—
St. Andrew, HMom.'^Holbom Hall. — Bangor^kmisem
— Ely •place. — Hation-garden. — Rtrntvari-iw*!.— —
SnoW'hill.^'Skinner'Street. — St. SeMltbre. — Farthing*
office. — Old'bailey. — Newgate. — The Sessions-bimse.^^
GiltspuV'Streei Compter. — Pye'Cwner.-'-^Smithfield.'^
St. Bartholomew s Hospitat — S^ Bartholomew the
Less. — St. Bartholomew the Great.^-^Bartholomew^
close. — Remains of the Old Priory. — Long-lane^'^^
Smithfield»bars.
The ward of Farringdon witbout, which is very
large, forms the western extremity of the city. In
the time of the Saxons^ the principal part of the
city lay west from Ludgate^ and what is now the
heart of the city, was but thinly inhabited, as ap-
pears from Fabian's Chronicle. H6 say$» that m
^ing Egelred'a, or Ethelred's, reign, which began
in the year 981, or, according to Stow, in 978,
l/^ndon had more houses, or buildings, from Lud^
gate towards Westminster, and little or none
where the chief of the city now is, except in divers
places was housing, but they stood without order ;
so that many towns and cities, as Canterbuiy,
York, and others, passed London in building in
Ikoso^ (Ki/«, ^ b» 'had seea^ and knowui . by an old
book
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CDKOOfl AKD ITS HXTI&OKS. 115
book in the Giriklfaftll of London, named Dooms-
day. But, after the conquest, it increased, and
shortly surpassed and excelled all the others.
TUs wara f$ bounded on the east by the ward^f
Farmigdon within, iht precinct of the late pridry
of St fiartholpnxv, and Akier&gate-ward, on the
north by the Charter-house, the parish of St. Jobn^
Clerkenweli^ and part of that of ^. AndreTi^ without
the freedom^ on the west by the parish of St. CJe-
meirt's Daieii and on the south by the river
Thasn.
It extends from the piaejes wlieie Newgate and
Lndgate formerly stood, in the east, to Temple-bar«
and Hoibom'-bars, in Ihe west, and fitMn Long*
l<n0 and 9niitbfie!d-bars, ki the north, to the river
TfaaBws in the somtfa.
Wtthia this district are included the whole pre-
cinct of St« fiarthoiottiewt a part of Long-lane, all
fimitlifiddtla the bars in St. John's-atreet; Holborn,
to the bars at the east end of Middle- row; from
vfaeooe it runs southward, between Staple s-inn and
Caatle-etrect, and crosses tlie south end of C'Jian-*
cery^laie, obliquely, to Temple-bar, and from
thence to the Thames, where, turning easterly, it
contitiuds its course to the place formerly called
Flctt-ditdi.
It is divided into fourteen precincts, and is go«
?emed byanaldenmn, sixteen, common- council*
ftten, twtnty^tbree constables^ forty-eight inq>uest-
Sien, attd foor beadles.
The principal streets in it are, Ludgate-hiil,
Fleft'Stiieet, Bridge* street, part of Chancery-lanei
Fetter, or, as it was anciently called, FeuterVlane,
Holborn, Castle-street, Hattoa^ garden, £iy-place^
Skinner-street, and the Old-bailey.
Between Lndgate«>hilK and Fleet-street, on the
dortb side, is Fleet- market, which is erected on the
ancient
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116 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
ancient watercourse of the Fleet-rivulet, orj as it
was afterwards denominated, * when it became
choaked with filth, Fleet-ditch.
This rivulet was increased in its course to the
Thames, by Turnmill-brook, or the river of Wells,
and a stream called the Old Bourn, and was for-
merly navigable as high as Ilolborn-bridge, or, ac-
cording to some authors, much higher; for Mait-
land relates that an anchor had been found, a short
time before he wrote his History of London, at
Black Mary's-hole, and that it was commonly re-
ported, that one had been found at Pancras. How-
ever this may be, it is certain that flood-gates weic
erected in it, in I606, and that, after the fire of
London, it was cleansed, enlarged, and made ca-
pable of bringing barges of considerable burthen
to Holborn -bridge, where the water was five feet
deep in the lowest tides. The side walls of this
canal were built of stone and brick, and the wharfs
on each side were thirty-five feet in breadth, and
covered with warehouees for storing provisions^
coals, and the various commodities brought here
for the supply of that part of the metropolis conti*
guous to it.
Over this canal were four bridges of Portland-
stone, viz. . at Bridewell, Fleet-street, ^leet-lane,
and liolborn.
In clearing it from the rubbish of the fire in
1670, many Rojnan utensils were found at a depth
of fifteen feet; and, still lower, a great quantity of
Roman coins, in silver, copper, brass, a^d other
metals, which were conjectured to have been thrown
in by the terrified inhabitants, at the approach of
^oadjcea, with her aimy of Britons. The silver
poins were the ring-money of several si»s, from
that of a crown to a silver two-pence, each having
^ snip in ^be ed^e.
peside^
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UmitmM AKD ITS «IfTI10KS« . | If
Besidte these antiiquieifli tk number of others were
fouod, inai;ked with Saxon chAracters^ such: as ar^
row heads, sfwr-fQwels pf a hand s breadth^, dago
gers, seals, and keys/atid a cojpsiderable numjber of
modem nsedals with cros&es, ctupitixes, &c« . .
But theexf^ense of keeping this canal navigSi*
ble, proving extremely burthensoixie to the cjU^
^ens, it was at last neglected, and became a* great
and dangerous nuisance^ which occasioned the city
to apply to parliament for power to arch it over^,-
and make it level with .th€ street; and, haviqg ob«*
tained an act for that purpose, the work was begun
in the year 1734, and a marketibouse, with other
eonreniences, being erected on the place, it was
opened on the SOth of September, 1737, by tho
name of Fleet^market.
This market consists of two rows of shop;, a!^
mo^ the whole length of it, with a passage between;
paved with rag-stone. In the center la a turret^
with a clock; and at the north end is a large area
for dealers in vegetables.
By the act of parliament to enable the ci{i;sens
to erect this market, the fee-simple of the ground
on which it stands is crested in the mayor, common-
alty, and citizens of Lopdon, for ever, with a pro«
yisotbat sufficient drains shall be kept.through the
p)iannel, and that no houses, or sheds, exceeding
^fteen feet in height, shall be erected thereon.
On the east side of this market, between Lud^
gate-hill and Fleet-lane, is the Fleet-prison, which
was a place of confinement for debtors, as early as
the reign of Richard L
It is a brick building of considerable lengthy
with galleries in each story, that reach from one
fud to the other, in which are the rooms for th^
prisoners. There are about one hunched and twenty^
^ve of these rooms, besides a (:pmmou kitchep^ cofp
4 f^'C
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1 1t flrmoKY APfD vnrwmow
fte and tap-rooms ; im4 beUnd tiM {hwou k m ijpa*
eious area, in which the prisouciB walk, and lensr*
eise themselvea at diiiwefit dii;«rsi«M|.
It k properly the prison heloi^aig toiAia cdwt
of Common-pleas; but persons in contempt of «h«
eotttc of Chancery are also committed to it The
fceq>er it called Wanden of the Fleet, and his plact
is of veiy great profit as wd\ as trust Prisoners for
debt, in any part of England, may be temoved to
the Fleet by habeas corpus, and enjoy the rules^ ot
keep a house within tbe liberties, provided thenf
give sufficient security to the warden, t^ iftdeiSK*
nify him in case they should exceed them.
The rules or liberties of the Fleet are, all 4^
flortb side of Ludgate^hill, the 01d»bailey, up to
Fleet-lane, down that lane into the market, an4
then, turning the corner on the left, all the east
side, aloiig by the Fle^*>prisoa to the bottom o#
Luc%ate«hill.
Directly opposite to Fb«t-market is an elegant
spacious openmgp called Bridge-street, leading to
BlackfriarS'-bridge. On the west side of tius Stieet
is Bridewell-hospital
This buiidiog is situated on the spot whem oti4S«
stood a royat palace, even before |he conquest;
and which continued^ with some little intermission^
in that state till the reign of King Edward VI. |t
was rebuilt by King Henry VIII. in the year ISWf
for the reception of the Emperor Chartes V. who
gave it the name of Bridewell ; on account of a;
lemarkable well thereunto adjoining, and its vict«
nity to St;. Bride's church.
in the year (553, King Edward VI j^ff^ this
Klace to the mayor, commonalty and citieens off
mdon, to be a working-j^xiuse for- the poor and
idle persons of the city, and to be a house of cor*
rectioHi wiiji seven hundifed marks of land, foimerly
of
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o£ 1h9 JMMMBI0119 of tlK house of Savoy, and all
dMs: beddingi asd otbet fiflrnif ure of the said hnuse^
tovsnji tke maimrnsmce of Bridewett, and the hos-
pital of St. 4 hem® ia aoBtkwark. But King Ed^
wvd djrhig soon after this giant w» made, preu
WBtod the city's entering upon the prennses and
tdLnn^poaiession, till it wasconfinned two ycarsaftef
hf Qtitra Maiy. After which Gerard the niay<»v
entered and took possession thereof : ajid in ofdei to
farwMd ao good a work, the foilowihg act of com-
flsOD cnoQcil was made the last day of Febraary, ill
liw woond and tllhrd of Pbilip and Mary :
^^ Foraamoch as King Edward VI. h^R gtven his
kioaa of Bridewell imto the city, partlj for the
aettiogof idleand lewdpeopie to work, and partlj^
fat tbe lodgiBg aod harfaoariog of the poor, sidi^
liOsVi, aod sore people of this city, and of poor
wajF-fiiring people, repairiagtx> the same; and bat
for tbia hut purpuie gtren the bedding and fnmif«>
tMT of tlio Savoy : thenforo in coaaderatioit that
wsry great charges wiii be required to the fifttiag'of
the said house, and the buying of tools and bed^
diii§; they ordesod to be gotten, up amongst the
lidi people ctf the companies of liOndoa, &c.'*
la the foikxwing reigDs, granariifs and stoie^
hoMCi for ooals wete erecsed at the expense of tiio
city within this hospitad,. aard the poor were em«
plor^ed sw grmdiiig corn witb hand mills; whictl
wen greatly improTcd. i» tlie reiga at' Queoa^ Eli**
zabeth, when a citizen invented a mill^ by which
twa 109a might griod as. much corn iw a day, as
CDoM be gr^nd by ten men with the other mcUsj
aod being, to be worked either by the hands or iteti
if the poor were lame in tie arms,, they earned
their Isrivg with their feee^ and if they were. lame
im. tbenr legs^ they earaedi their Koiag with their
The
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130 .mStORT AtHD lUETET O*
The old building was almost wholly destrojcSd by
the dreadful fire in 1666^ together with, all die
dwelling-houses in thc^ precinct of BrideweU^ from
whence had arisen two thirds of its revenue ; the
hospital, however, was rebuilt in 1668, in theman^^
lier it at present appears, except the front which
has been lately taken down, for the purpose of
erecting a row of houses in a line with those m
Bridge^street.
In this hospital is an establishment for arts-mas-
ters, in several branches of trade, who, being de-
cayed citizens have houses granted them by th*
governors, with the privilege of taking appnentices.
These lads are cloathed by the charity, and at the
expiration of their service, are entitled to ten
pounds, and the freedom of the city. Their
cloathing formerly consisted of blue douUets and
trowsers with white hats, but for some years past
the form of their garments, which are of blue clotb^
is the same as those in common use, the only dis-
tinction being a button bearing the head of £d«
wardVL
This place is also used as & housci of coirection
for pick-pockets, vagrants, and disorderly women^
who are committed by the lord mayor and alder*
inen. Disobedient apprentices may also be con*
fined hereby orders of the chamberlain. All the
prisoners are confined to hard labour, and if their
offences require it are subjected to the punishment
of whipping.
Part of the building which forms the present
fiont^ and th^ south end of the remaining, courts
l^hich escaped the fire in 1666, belonged to the
palace erected by Henry VIII.
The hall is a very noble room^ at the upper end
of which is a fine painting of Edward VL deliver^
ing the charter to Sir George Barnes, the loid
mayor.
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iMmikftf Asm nt feirmoirs. HI
tiiayor.. lluft piece oootaiiid ten portmti beside^
that of the kiair, aiiiong whom are WHUam Earl
of Pembroke, me Bisliop of £lt, X^d Chan-
cellor of England, and Holbein himself, the re-
puted tiaiater, though dome doubts an^ entertained
bf fati having competed it, from his death having
happened ao very aoon after the tranaaction. There
sre Mine otliicr very good portraits in this halL
The cbapd «rhich was on the sotfith side of the
first omitt has been p4illed^oWn^ atid instead of it
m neir ^ne is bnildtng at the north end of the pre*-
tent front
Th«a{foit6<»f this hospital are managed by the
^ver^ofs, who ate above three hundr^, besides
tbe k>Fd Mayor add court o^ aldermen, ail of whom
«re Kke^iride governors of Bethlehem Hospital;
for these hoa^tals being 6ne corporation, they
have the sanie preirident, governors, clerk, physi*
ciaft, burgeon, And apothecary. This hospital,
however, has its ^wn stew^lrd, a porter, a tiiatron,
4rad four beadles, oiie df whom has the business of
torrecting tbt criminals.
On the south side of Fleet-street is Dorset-Street
and Salisbiiry-squard, so called from being the sit6
of thpft mansion ^touse of the Bishops of Salisbury,
ivhieh waaafterwards inhabited by theEaris of Dorset.
Between Salisbury ^square and the Thames, is the
office belonging to the New River Company ; a
haa<bome brick edifice^ built in a very neat and
uniform stile.
At the bottom of the street ftottting the Thaipes,
wto formerly a magnificent and spacious theatre,
whertin plays were acted till the abdication of
James II.
Ott the east side ctf" the entrance into this square
is a passage leading to tile parish church of St*
Bridget, usually called St Bride^
VOL. II i« R This
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133 HISTORY AND SURVEY 0;r*
This church seems to be of some antiquity from
itshaviqg had three rectors before the year 1362.
It was a very small building, till about the year
1480, when it was greatly enlarged by William
Venor, warden of the Fleet Prison, who caused a
spacious fabrick to be erected at the west end thereof,
consisting of a middle and two side aisles ; to which
the old church served as a choir. It was originally
a rectory in the patronage of the abbot and
convent of Westminster, and is supposed to
have been converted to a vicarage about the year
15^9.
When Henry VIII. dissolved the Convent of West-
minster, and formed it into a bishoprick, this church
was conferred upon the new bishop, and when
Edward restored the deanry, the patronage was
granted, to the dean and chapter, iti whom it has
ever since continued, except during the reign of
Mary, who re-established the dissolved convent.
In I6l0 the Earl of Dorset gave a parcel of
ground, . on the west-side of Fleet-ditch, fqr a
new church-yard ; which was consecrated on the
Sd of August that same year, by Dr«. George Ab-
bot, Bishop of London.
The old church being destroyed by the fire of
London in 1666, the present edifice which was de-
signed by Sir Christopher Wren, was completed by
him within fourteen years, in such a masterly and
elegant manner, as to exceed most of our parish
churches in delicacy and beauty : it is one hundred
and eleven feet long, eighty-seven broad, and the
steeple is two hundred and thirty-four feet high,
which is thirty-two feet higher than the monument.
It has a plain and regular body, the openings all
answering to each other : the roof is raised on pil-
lars ; and the altar-piece, like the outside of the
cliUTch, is very roagnificenti The circular pedi-
3 ment
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MNDOK AN1> ITS ENVIRONS. 193
meat over the lower part, issupportecl by six Corin-
ditan colatnns. The steeple is a spire of extremely
delicate workmanship, raised upon a solid, yet
light tower: and the several stages by which the
spire gradually decreases are well designed, and
skilfully executed. In this steeple is a ring of
bells particularly noticed for the melody of their
tones.
Farther to the west are several streets, lanes, and
alleys, erected on the site of the convent of the
Carmelites, or White Friars, whose house and gar-
dens extended from Fleet-street to the Thames.
These friars took their name from their cloathing,
which was white, and, having made a vow of poverty,
lived by b^ging. Their convent was founded in
1241, by Sir Richard Grey, ancestor of the Lord
Greys, of Codnor, in Derbyshire, and was rebuilt
by Hugh Courteney, Earl of Devonshire, about
the year 1350, when the ground given to the order
by Edward I. to enlarge their buildings was taken
in. Many persons ot distinction were inteiTcd in
the conventual church which was built by Sir
Robert Knowles, a great warrior in the reigns of Ed-
ward HI. and Richard II. The company of cur-
riers had a guild in this church, whence it is pro-
bable that the members of that profession resided
in the vicinity.
At the dissolution of this convent in the SOth of
Henry VII I. the revenues of the house were
valued at sixty-two pounds, seven shillings, and
three pence, when tlie king conferred difterent
portions of the building upon his favourites : and'
in 1557, Edward VI. granted the church, chapter-
bouse, and other parts of the priory to the Bishop
of Worc^ter and his successors.
In the year I6O8, the inhabitants of this district
obtained a chapter from King James I. to entitle
them
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124 BlSieitV AVP WBTBV 09
them to several liberties, privileges, and i
ff oin ttie jurisdiction of the city of JUimk^Ot wlucfa.
reiidered the place an asylum for insolvent debtors,
cheats and gamesters, who gave it the name o^
Alsatia* Put the iucqnvenieqcfs procKictil by thi^
place of fefuge, and the riotous proceedings carried
on there, at length induced the legisl^urc to inter-
pose their authority, and \\\ the year I6969 aaact
of parliament was passed to deprive the district of
privileges so injurious to the commiiiuty.
f^rqceeding westwards on the same side of Flectf
street, is Serjeant's Inn, which consists of^ ^tsiy
handsome uniform buildings. It was feotDeriy am
inn of court^ but is now private property^ and the
hall is converted into an office for the Aniioibl^ So?
ciety for a pei^etual assurance, incorporated in the
year 1 706. The present eleeant bouse for the tran?
sactipn of the busine^ of this Society was erected
in 1793. It consists of a rustic basement story,
the ascent to which is by a doable flight of steps
]vith a handsome iron railing; the principal story
IS embellished with four neat columns of tbe Ipaic
prder supporting an entablature, above which b a
Elain triangular pediment; and the top of the
iiildini^ is terminated by a light ballustrade«
More to the west are the entrances into the Tern*
pie, one of our most celebrated inns of courts
This place is so called from its having been anci-
ently the residence of an order of people called
knights Templars, w|to settled herein the rci]gn of
Henry II. These knight^ who were truly inembers
of the church militant, by combining demotion an4
heroism ^n ^heir profession, ^ere united on the fol*
lowing occasion.' Several of the crysadcn having
settled at Jerusalem about the year Did, formed
them:>elves into an unifibrm militia, under tiie name
pf TemplarS; or knights of the Tempkr, a nanvs
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liHUMnr jkMo ixt rannoirsr lt|
AtfBBmsnncd fn>» being <}aaitercd orer ^ pburch
built OD tbe.^»ot where Solomon's temple ha4 atoo^L
They first guarded the roads for the security of the
p^rims who canieto viark the holy sepulchre ; ^ti4
some time after tltey had a rule a^^potnted them hf
fOf]^ Slonocins IL who ordained them to wear ^.
white habit; after which they werf fertber distim
goisbBd by h^rbg grosses made of red cloth on
their »pper garaeitts. The profession of Tefnphii^
was soon ack>pted by men of bulb in all parts of
Enrope^ ivho became brethren of the ord^r : tliey
built tfaeiaselves taemples in many principal cities
after the Sotm of the If cdy Sepulchre, particut^rTy
in England, where this in Fleetrstreet was then*
chief house, aad often used as a sanctuary, in trou-?
blesome times, fW the preaervatiop of treasure ^n4
valuable eifectSy
The Knights Tempkrs wpre in so flourishing a
eoodition in the ISth century, Uiatthey frequently
evtertsuned the nobility, foreign ambassadors, and
ef^en the king himself; and many great coqncila .
and parKaments were held in their housea. At
length, however, their wealth produced a relax*
ation ftom the rigid obligations of a monastic life ;
when the knights hospitallers of St John of Jerur
salem, whose poverty as yet preserved them from
the lite corruptions, availing themselves of the
opportunity, succeeded to that popularity the Tem*
plats had lost by their indolence and luxury.
The order of Knights Templars was totally abo^r
lisbed bv Fiape Clenent V. at the instigation of
Philip, king of Fravce; after which the knights in
^iBgland wer« distriboted in other converts ; and,
by the Pope*8 orders, their possessions Wfre trans^
fiensed to the ovder of St John, wlio had theif
chief house where St John<*square is now siftuated«
These knights soon afte^ let oat the building that
belonged
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126 HI6T0RT AKD SUEVXY OV
beloQged to the Templars to students of the com*
mon-law : in wbosepossession it has ever since 90a*
tinned*
This spacious place is divided into two parts, viz.
The Inner Temple, and the Middle Temple; and
though they have separate halls, yet both houses
resort to the same church. The buildings, which
have been erected at very different periods, arc
perfectly united ; but it is almost impossible to dis-
tinguish the separate inns of court, except at their
entrances, which are the only visible fronts to the
street : one of these is opposite the south end of
Chancery-lane, and the other nearly adjoining to
Temple Bar.
In the space of ground which forms the Tempi©
are many courts of handsome new-'built. houses ;
and behind the whole are gardens and walks fiont^
ing the Thames. These gardens have been much
enlarged by a new embankment of the river; and
their situation is exceeding pleasant, as they com*
mand not only a view of Blackfriars and West*
minster bridges, and the boats and craft on the
river, but have also an agreeable distant perspec*
tive of the hills on the opposite shore in the county
of Surrey. Shakespeare makes these gardens the
scene of the fatal quarrel between the rival houses
of York and Lancaster, which occasioned thQ
shedding of so much English blood*
The entrance into the Middle Temple from Fleet-
street, is by a very handsome gate, which was-
built in the stile of Inigo Jones„ in the year l6it4«
The front of it) though narrow, is graceful: it ia
built of brick with four large stone pilasters of the
Ionic order, and a handsome pediment. In a
course of stone between the first and second story,
is cut the following inscription : Surrexit impemis
jocietat. Med. Templi, mjdclxxxiv. and beneath
it.
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LQKDOir AKB ITS EKTIHQKB. IS?
it, just brer the gate, is the figure of a Holy
Lamb.
The great hall belonging to the Middle Temple
is very spacious and beautiful^ and is esteemed one
of the fincM halls in the kingdom. It was originally
built in the Ireign of Edward III. but the present
edifice was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
in tlie year 1578. It is ornamented with paintings
by Sir James Thomhill, and contains full length
IVtftraits of those pillars of the law Littleton, and
hisr able but insolent commentator Coke*
III the treasury^chamber of the Middle Temple
is liresenred a great quantity of armour which be-
longed to the Knights Templars^ consisting of
helmets, breast and back pieces, a halbard, and
two very beautiful shields, with iron spikes in their
centres, of the length of six inches, and each about
twenty pounds weight. They are curiously engrav*
ed, and one of them richly inlaid with gold ; the
insides are lined with leather stuffed, and the edges
are adorned with silk fringe.
In Garden-court, in the Middle Temple, is a
library founded by the will of Robert Ashley, Esq.
in the year 1641, who bequeathed his own library
for that purpose, and SOOl. to be laid out in a pur*
chase, for the maintenance of a librarian, who
tiiust be a student of the society, and be elected
into that office by tlie benchers.
The Inner Temple is situated to the east of the
Middle Temple, and has a cloister, a large garden, and
more spacious walks than the other. In th is divi*
. sk>n there is also a handsome hall.
The chief officer bek)nging to each of these socie-
ties is a treasurer, who is annually elected from
among the benchers or senior members ; and whose
office is to admit students, and to receive and pay
ail ca&h belonging to the society. Both the Tem-
ples,
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138 itistoitt iiri) sntyftir d#
plet, hoORfcter, nte utidtt ode master^ wfad^ iihee
the reign of Henry VIII. has been a divine^ and
constituted b^ letters patent from the ctoWn inth-^
<Nit any otiier indnctkNi.
The moat, remarkable building ia the Traiple» is
the old church, which ie common to both spcietie^
and was the church that belonged to ike Knights
Templars of Jerusalem. It was origioatly founded
in the year 1185, and dedicated to the Virgm
Mary; but was fdore generally known by the name
of the founders, than the petMn to ii^h^m it waa
dedicated. The original church liras taken down
in 1840, and another erected after the samemodei^
which is that of the Holy Sepulchre. The present
•edifice was one of those that escaped the fire of
London; but in 1695, the soath wost p^Mtwna
new built, and in 1706 the whole was thoroughly
repaired^
. This beautiful Gothic structure is built of atone^
^mly put together, and enridied with omaihenta»
It consists of a long body with a turret, and at the
west end is a tower that has much the appeat^hce
of a piece of fortification. This tower is forty**
eight feet high; its diameter at the floor is fifty^one
feet, and its circumference one hundred and sixty
feet The length of the church, from the alttf
to the screen, is eighty^three feet; the breadth
sixty; and the height to the roof, thirty-fdur
feet
The windows that enhghten the body of thechutch
are large and well proportioned: they are composed
of three Gothic arches ; a principal, and a lower
on either side. The windows aresoclose together^
that there are but very slender piers between them
to support a heavy roof: they are thertfbra
strengtnened with buttresses ; but these buttresses,
9A in most Gothic structures, exclude more light
than
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LOXDON AND ITS ENYIROKS. 199
than the piera would have done, had they beea
larger, and the windo^rs considerably less. Tb«
tower, which is very massy, has but few windows,
and those small ; yet there are buttresses carried
up between them. The top of it is crowned with
plain sqtirare battlements, and from the centre rises
a vane. The turret on the body of the church is
small and plain, and serves to receive a bell. In
«bort, the outside of this building has a most ve-
nerable aspect; but the beauties of it are within.
The round tower, which is the entrance to the
church, is supported within by six pillars wains-
coted with oak, six feethigh, and adorned all round,
except the east part, which opens into the church,
with an upper and lower range of small arches,
ajpd black apertures ; but the most remarkable ob-
jects in this part are the tombs of eleven of the
Knights Templars who lie interred here ; eight of
which are covered with the figures of armed
knights: of these, five lie cross-legged, to indi-
cate that they had made a vow to go to the Holy
Land to make war with the Infidels. The first of
these was William Marshall the elder, Earl of Pem-
broke, who died in the year 1219- The second
was William Marshall his son, who died in 1231 :
and ^ the third was Gilbert Marshall, brother to
William, who was slain in a tournament at Hert-
ford, in the year 1 24 1 . The other effigies lie strait-
legged. The rest of the tombs are only coped
with stone, but they are all made of grey marble.
The tower is divided from the body of the church
by a very handsome screen in the modern taste^
The body of the church has three roofs, supported
by tall and slender pillars of Sussex marble. The
windows are all adorned with small neat pillars of
the- same atone, and the floor is paved with black
and wbite marble. The aisles are five in number ;
VOL, III. s three,
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liO HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
three, as usual, running east and west, and two
cross aisles. The walls are neatly wainscoted with
oak about eight feet high; and the altar-piece,
which is of the same wood, is much higher, finely
carved, and adorned with four pilasters, and two
columns of the Corinthian order : h is also oma*
mented with cherubs, a shield, festoons, fruit and
leaves. The pulpit, which is placed near the east
end of the middle aisle, is finely carved and veneer*
ed ; the sounding-board is pendant from the roo^
and enriched with several carved arches, a crown,
festoons, cherubs, &c.
The screen that separates the tower from the
body of the church is of wainscot, and adorned
with ten pilasters of the Corinthian order, with
three portals and pediments. The organ gallery is
supported by two fluted Corinthian columns, and
ornamented with an entablature and a compass
pediment, with the king's arms well carved. Near
the pediment, on the south side, is an enrichment
of cherubs, and a carved figure of a Pegasus, the
badge of the society of the Inner Temple ; and ia
the pediment, on the north side, is an enrichment
of cherubs, and the figure of a Holy Lamb, the
badge of the society of the Middle Temple : for
though these two societies have one church, they
seldom sit in it promiscuously ; the gentlemen oif
the Inner Temple sitting on the south, and those
of Middle Temple on the north side of the middle
aisle. The organ is considered one of the finest in
the world.
This antique church contains the monuments
and tombs of many eminent judges, masters in
chancery, and lawyers; among whom may be di$*
tinguished the celebrated Selden, an^ Plowden^
treasurer of the society in 1572, a lawyer of the
most distinguished abilities; of whom Camdeu
says.
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LONfl>ON AND ITS BXVIEOXS. iSi
says, that in integrity he was second to none of
his profession^
We&t from the entrance into the Temple, and at
tke extremity of the city liberties, is Temple-bar.
On tiie spot where this gate stands were, anciently,
postSy rails^ and a chain, as in other places where
the city liberties terminated. Afterwards, a house
of timber was erected across the street, with a nar-
row gateway, and an entry through the south side
of it. But, since the fire of London, the present
structure was erected, and is the only remaining
gate at the extremity of the city liberties.
This gate is a very noble one, and luts two pos-
terns, one on each side, for the convenience of foot
passengers. It is built entirely of Portland-stone,
of rustic work below, and of the Corinthian order.
The great arch is elliptical and very flat. Over
the gateway, on the east side, iii two niches, are
stone statues of Queen Elizabeth and King James I.
with the city arms over the key -stone, and on the
wesjt side are the statues of King Charles I. and
King Charles II. in Roman habits, with the royal
arms on the key-stone.
Retuniing from Temple-bar, on the north side
of Fleet-street, is Shire-lane, which is so called be-
cause it divides the city from the shire.
More to the east is Chancery -lane, in which are
many public buildings; but none of theni are
within this ward, except Serjcants'-inn, and the
Rolls-ahapel.
Scrjeants*-inn, in Chancery-lane, is the only re-
maining inn of court for the judges and vserjeants
of the law, and contains chambers only for the ac \
commodation of these gentlemen ; whereas, in that
in Reet-strcet, each one possessed a distinct house.
The degree of a serjeant being the highest in the
law, except that pf a judge, it is conferre<l, by the
sovereign,
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I9S HISTORY AND SU&TEY 5F
sovereign, on those of the profeasion most emi*?
nently distinguished for their abilities and probity;
and this order is held so honourahlCi that none are
admitted to the dignity of a judge, but the mem-
bei-s of it. According to the opinion of some of
our ablest lawyers, among whom may be named
Sir Edward Coke, this degree is of very ancient
standing, and it is expressly mentioned in a statute
of the third of Edward I. cap. xxix.
The Rolls-chapel is the place for keeping the
rolls, or records in chancery.
This house was founded by King Henry III. in
the place where stood a Jew's house, forfeited to
that prince in the year 1233. In this chapel all
such Jews and infidels as were converted to the
Christian faith, were ordained, and in the buildings
belonging to it were appointed a sufficient main-
tenance ; by which means a great number of con«
verts were baptized, instructed in the doctrines of
Christianity, and lived under a learned christian
appointed to govern them ; but, in the year 1290,
all the Jews being banished, the numbler of oaam
verts decreased, and, in the year 1377i the house,
with its chapel, was annexed by patent to the
keeper of the rolls of chancery.
ITie chapel, which is of brick, pebbles, and some
free-stone, is sixty feet long, and thirty-three feet
in breadth; the doors and windows are Gothic,
and the roof covered with slate. In this chapel the
rolls are kept in presses fixed to the sides, and or«
namented with columns and pilasters of the lotiic
and Composite orders. These rolls contain all the
records, as charters, patents, &c. since the begin*
ning of the reign of Richard III. those before that
time being deposited in the record-office in the
Tower; and these being made up in rolls of parch-
ment, gave occasion to the name.
• 4 At
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LONOOK A»P ITS SNTIKOKS. 133
At the BQ)rth-we9t angle of this chapel 10 a bencK
when Uie master of the rolls hears causes in chan<»
eery. And attendance is given in this cb^el, from,
ten o'clock till twelve, fOr taking in and pay^
ing out mosey, according to order of court, and
for giving an opportunity to those who come for
that purpose to search the rolls.
The minister of the chapel is appointed by the
naster of the rolls, and divine service is performed
there on Sundays, and holidays, at about eleven
and three.
On the walls are several old monuments, partU
eularly at the east end, is that of Dr. Young, master
of the rolls, who died in the year 1516. In a welU
wrought stone coffin lies the effigy of Dr. Young,
ia a scarlet gown; his hands lie across upon his
breas^ and a cap with corners covers his ears. Oa
the wall, just above him, our Saviour is looking
down upon him, his head and shoulders appearing
out of the clouds, accompanied by two angels.
The office of the rolls is under the government
of the master of the rolls, whose house is by tha
chapel.
The place of master of the rolls is an office of
Xreat dignity, and is in the gift of the king, either
K>rlife, or during pleasure. He is always the pria#
eipal master in chancery, and has in his gifl the of*
fiee of the six clerks in chancery, of the two exa«
minera of the same court, and of the clerk of tho
chapel of the rolls, who acts immediately under him
tn that office. He has several revenues belonginjEt
to the office of the rolls, and, by act of parliament
receives a salary of twelve hufldred pounds per an«
naHit out of the hanaper.
East from Chancery-lane, in Fleet-street, is Clif»
Ibrd's-inn, which is so called from having been the
eity residence of the family of the Cliffi3rds ; it
having
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1S4 HISTORY AK0 SURVEY OF
bavmg been demised, in the year 1345, by Isabel,
widow of Robert de ClitFord, to certain students
of the law ; since which time it has continued ta
be inhabited by gentlemen of that profession.
It is an inn of chancery, and an appendage to the
Middle Temple; but its present occupiers are chiefly
attornies and officers of the Marshalsea-court.
Adjoining to this inn is the parish church of St
Dunstan in the west ; which is so called to distiii^
gnish it from another church in Tower^ward, dedi-^
cated, to the same saint, and called St. Dunstan ia
the East.
It is a very ancient foundation, in the gift of the
Abbot and Convent of Westminster, who, in the
year 1237, gave it to King Henry III. towards the
maintenance of the foundation of the house called
the Rolls, for the reception of converted Jews. . It
was afterwards conveyed to the Abbot and Convent
of Alnwick, in Northumberland, in which patroa*
age it continued till that religious house was
suppressed by King Henry VHI. Edward VL
granted the advowson of this church, under the
name of a vicarage, to Lord Dudley. Soon after
which, the rectoiy and vicarage were granted to
Sir Kichard Sackville, and the impropriation has
continued ever since in private hands.
* This is one of the churches that escaped the fire
of London, the flames having stopped within three
doors of it; since which time, however, it has been
frequently repaired, and the inconveniencies that
formerly arose from a number of small shops, or
sheds, that stood in the front of it, have been re-
medied by their removal.
The cliurch, which is built of brick and stone,
consists of a large body, with a very disproportion*
flte square tower. It is ninety feet in length, sixty
feet in breadth, thirty -six feet in height, to the
roo^i
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tGTKDOJI AKD Its EKYIROKS. fSJr
toof, and the altitude of the turret is one hundred
feet. The dial of the clock projects over the street,
en the south side of the cnurch, and the clock-«
house is formed of an Ionic porch, containing two
figures erect, carved and painted, and as large as
life, which, with knotted clubs, alternately strike
the quarters on two bells hung between them:
these figures were set up in the year l67h In a
niche, at the east. end of the church, is the statue
of Queen Elizabeth, which formerly stood on Lud-»
gate, and, when that gate was taken down, was
purchased by Alderman Gosling, and placed in its
present situation.
The ground in this neighbourhood appears ta
have been anciently of a marshy nature, or else
within the course of tlw tide ; for, in digging at
the end of Chancery *lane, and further eastward, in
Fleet-street, in the year 15<)5, a stone pavement was
discovered at the depth of four feet from the sur-
face, which was supported by a number of piles,
driven very close to each other.
A little to the east of St Dunstan's church, and
near the south end of Fetter-lane, is Crane-court,
in which is a neat plain buildings called the Scots'-*
hall.
This corporation was instrtuted for the relief of
the poor and necessitous people of Scotland, that
reside within the cities of London and Westminster.
It owes its origin to James Kinnier, a Scotsman^
and merchant of this city ; who, on his recovery
from a long and dangerous illness, resolved to give
part of his estate towards the relief of his indigent
countrymen; for which purpose, having prevailed
with a society of Scotsmen, who composed a box-^
club, to join their stock, he obtained a charter, by.
which he and his coadjutors were, in the year 166S,
constituted a body politic and corporate^ with se-
veral
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56 HI8XOKT AND JUUVSY OT
ireral privileges, which King Charles II. a^Gtmed
the following year by letters patent; wherein are
recited the privities granted in the forcner char-
tcTf with the addition of several new ones, vis^
That they might erect an hospital, within the city
or liberties of London and Westminster, to be
called,, " The Scots Hospital of King Charits 11.-
to be governed by eight Scotsmen, who were to
chuse from among themselves a master, who, toge*
ther with these governors, was declared to be a
body politic and corporate, and to have a commoa
seal. They were also empowered to elect thirty*^
three assistants, and to purchase, in mortmain^
four hundred pounds per annum, over and above
an annual sum mentioned in the first charter; the
profits arising from these purchases to be employed
in relieving, poor old Scotsmen and women, and ia
instructing and employing poor orphans, the dc*
acendants of Scotsmen, within this city.
Fetter-lane extends from Fleet-street, in the
south, to Holborn, in the north, and was anciently
called FewtcrsMane, from the number of idle per-
sons who used to frequent it, it being surrounded
with gardens and houses lor dissipation. West of
the north end of it are the bars, which divide the
city liberty from the county, on this side.
Within the bars, on the south side of Holborn^
is Staple's-inn, which is an inn of chancery, and a
member of Gray's-inn, and consists of two large
courts, surrounded with good buildings.
This inn is said to have been anciently a hall for
the accommodation of wool-staplers, whence it de-^
rived its appellation. It was, however, an inn of
chancery, in the year 1415, though how long be-
fore is Unknown. In the year 1529, the benchers of
Gray's-inn purchased this place of John Knighton,
and Alice his wife, by the name of ^' All that mes^
suage.
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IMXDOV AND ITS ENTIR09S. 137
suaige, or isn of chancery, eotnmoiily called Staple's
ipn ;*' since which time it has continued to be an
appendage to Gray Vinn.
Proceeding eastward, on the same side of Hoi*
bom, IS BaraardVinn, which is also ati inn of
chancery, and an appendage to Gray's-inn. It was
anciently denominated MackworthVinn, and was
given to tlie society in the year 1454, by the exe-
cutors of John Mackworth, Dean of Lincoln*
A little farther, on the saa>e side of the street, is
ThavieVinn, which is an ina of chancery, and a
member of Linooln's-inn ; to the society of which
It was granted by Gregory Nichols, citizen and
mercer of London, in the year 1549* This inn ap«
pears to be of great antiquity, by its having be*
longed to John Thavie, from whom it is denomi-
nated, in the reign of Edward IIL by whose will,
dated in 1548, it appears to have been then an inn
for students of the la^.
Contiguous to this inn, at the north-west angle
ef Shoe-lane, stands the parish church of St. An-
drew, Holbom.
This church escaped the fire of Ix)ndon; not«
withstanding which it was found so ruinous, that
it was entirely rebuilt in 1687» except the tower,
which was not erected till 1704. The body of the
church is one hundred and five feet long, sixty-three
feet broad, and forty-three feet high, and the height
of the tower is one hundred and ten feet. The body
is well built, and enlightened by two series of win-
dows, and on the top of it runs a handsome ba-
lustrade. The tower rises square, and consists only
of two stages, crowned with battlements and pin«
nacles at the corners. The first stage, which is
plain, has the dial : in the upper stage there is a
very handsome window to each front ; tall, arched,
vof.. 111. T and
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138 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
and decorated with Doric pilasters, which support
a lofty arched pediment, decorated within by a
shield. The cornice, that crowns the tower, is sup-
ported by scrolls; and the balustrade that rises
above this has a very firm base. Each corner of the
tower has an ornamental pinnacle, consisting of
four large scrolls, which, meeting in a body, sup-
port a pine-apple ; and from the crown of the fruit
rises a vane. The inside is extremely neat, and well
finished. Over the communion-table is a large
painted window, the lower part of which represents
the Messiah and his disciples at the Last Supper ;
and in a compartment above is represented his re-
surrection from the grave. The church stands at
an advantageous distance from the street, from
which it is separated by a wail, that ificlbses the
church^yard, and the entrance to it is by large and
elegant iron gates.
This church is a rectory, the patronage of which
was originally in the gift of the Dean and Canons
of St. Paul's, who transferred it to the Abbot and
Convent of Bermondsey, who continued patrons
of it till their convent was dissolved by Henry'
VIII. when that prince granted it to Thomas Lord
Wriothesley, afterwards Earl of Southampton, from
whom it descended by marriage to the late Duke
of Montague, in whose family the patronage still
remains.
Opposite to this church, in Shoe-lane, was situ-
ated a large house, denominated Holborn-hall, but
when or by whom erected does not appear, though
by its name it seems to have been the manor
house.
Lower down, on the same side of Shoe-lane, is a
burial-place, belonging to the parish of St. An-
drew, over the entrance into which is a carving of
the
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TtntrrmrrA fi»r Lambert* HUVanrT- of I. air Jon.
c
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 189
the general resurrection, which is well executed;
but, having been repeatedly covered with paint,
all the sharpness of the figures is lost.
Nearly opposite to this, in Bangor-court, are the
remains of the city mansion of the Bishops of Ban-
gor; the east end of which has some appearance of
having been formerly used as a cha|>el. In the win-
dow, in this end, is a coat of arms, in stained glass,
with the name of Fletwood, On the south side of
the building is an ancient door-way, ornamented
with military trophies. The reversion of this mes-
suage, with a t[uantity of waste land belonging to
it, measuring one hundred and sixty-eight feet in
length; from north to south, and one hundred and
sixty-four feet in breadth, from east to west, was
sold in the year 1647, by the trustees for the sal^
of bishops' lands, to John Barkstead, Knt who pur-
chased it for the purpose of building on the vacant
ground; as appears by an act of parliament passed
in 1656, for restraining new buildings in and about
the suburbs of London, in which there is a special
proviso to enable him to build thereon, in consi-
deration of his having given a greater sum for the
purchase of it, on .that account, than he would
otherwise have done. The last Bishop of Bangor,
who appears to have resided here, was Bishop Dol-
ben, who having been formerly Vicar of Hackney,
contributed thirty pounds for repairing the cause-
way leading from Clapton and Hackney, to Shore-
ditch, of which he informed the inhabitants of
these villages, by a letter dated from Bangor-house^
in Sboe-Iane, the 1 1th of November, 1633.
On the north side of Holborn, nearly opposite to
St Andrew's church, is Ely-place, a handsome well
built street, shut in with iron gates, on the site of
the ancient mansion*hou§e of the Bishops of Ely.
This
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Ho HISTOAY AND SURVET OF
This place was origiaally given to the Bishops of
Blyi hy William de Luda, bishop of that see, in
the reign of Edward I. by the name of the Manor
of Oldborne, with the appurtenances. Thomas
Arundel, Bishop of Ely, in the reigns of Edward
III. and Richard IL rebuilt it, with a gateway and
front towards Holbom. But the several buildings
belonging to this palace having goqe to decay, an
act of parliament was passed, in the year ITTS, to
enable the bishop to alienate the whole of it. It
was accordingly sold, and the n^oney received
from the sale was applied to the purchase anderec^
tion of a house in Dover-street, Piccadilly, which
is settled upon the bishops of this see.
In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, there were forty
acres of orchard and pasture land belonging to
this palace, and inclosed with a wall, part of which,
at tne western corner, was granted to Sir Christo-
pher Hatton, for a term of twenty years, whereoft
he built a magnificent house, and afterwards pre<»
vailed on the queen to apply« to Bishop Cox to
alienate the whole, with the garden behind it But
the bishop steadily refused to injure the property
of his successors ; wherefore the business was de->
ferred till the death of the bishop, when, the
tempbralities devolving to the crown, Elizabeth
gran^d the house and grounds to Sir Christopher
and his heirs for ever. The house has been since
pulled down, and the ground laid out into streets,
among which that called Hatton-garden is reputed
one of the handsomest in London. Great and
Little Kirby-street, Charles-street, Cro^s-street, and
Hatton-wall, are also built upon the ground m
question.
The gardens of Ely-palace were formerly cele*
brated for the excellence of the strawberries pro«
duced
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dqced hi tbem : Holin»hed ret^tM thAfi SitdkaxA
II L at thfi council heklin tbe Tower^ on th<$ mornn
ing Locd Ha3tings waa beheaded) requfsted a dish
of theoA from the bishop*
Tbe cbap«l bekinging to it ia preserved; it
•tanda on tb^ west side of £ly*place» and has a
ccypt under it, the whole length of tbe building.
Farther west is Furnivars*inn» a handsome old
building, with a garden behind it It was an Inn
^f <:hanQery, smd an appendage to LincolnVinn,.
and owes itjsname to Sir John Furnival, who, in the
year 1388, was proprietor of two messuages and
thirteen shops* on the site of which this inn was
founded.
At the east end of Holborn is &iow-hiiI, an
in«gular and formerly very inconvenient avenue
into the city from the north western parts of the
metropolis ; but tlie erection of a new street, in a
direct line fronv the bottom of tbe hill to the end
of the Old Bailey, has removed the inconvenience^
and added greatly to the beauty of this part of the
city. It is now nearly completed, and has been
named Skinner-street, in honour of the late Alder-
derman Skinner, an active member of the conw
mittee for improving tlie entrances into the city at
Teniple-bar and Snow-hiil
At the top of Snow-hill, on the north-side, stands
the parochisTl church of St. Sepulchre.
This church, which is so dedicated, in comme*
moration of Our Saviour's sepulchre or grave at
Jerusalem, is now a spacious building, but not so
large as of old time, part of the site of it being
let out upon a building lease. It is supposed to
have been founded about the year 1 100, at which
time a particular devotion was paid to the Holy
Sepulchre ; and was so decayed m the reign of £dk
ward IV. as to require rebuilding. Roger, Bishop
of
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142 ttXSTORY AK1> StntlTEV O^
of Salisbury, in the reign of Henry I. gav^ the
patronage of this church to the prior and convent
of St rartholomew in West Smithiield, who esta-
blished a perpetual vicarage in it, and held it till
their dissolution; when it fell to the crown. King^
James I. in the seventh year of his reign granteci
the rectory and its appurtenances, and the advow-
son of this vicarage, to Francis Philips, and others ;
after which the parishioners purchased the rectory
and its appurtenances, and held them in fee-farm of
the crown. And the advowson of the vicarage was
purchased by the president and fellows of St John
Baptist College, Oxon, who continue patrons
thereof.
The present structure was much damaged by the
fire of London in 1666. The outward walls and
the tower were, however, capable of reparation ; and
the middle aisle of the church was at the same dme
made with an arched roof, which was not so ori-
ginally.
This church, in its present situation^ measures
IS6 feet in length, exclusive of the broad passage
at the west end; the breadth, exclusive of the north
chapel, is fifty-eight feet. The height of the roof
in the middieaisle is thirty-five feet ; and the height
of the steeple^ to the top of the pinnacles, is one
hundred and forty-six feet. The body of the
church is enlightened with a row of very large
Gothic windows, with buttresses between, over
which runs a slight cornice; and on the top a plain
and substantial battlement work, in the style of
the public buildings in the reign of Edward IV.
And the steeple is a plain square tower, crowned
with four pinnacles.
Opposite St. Sepulchre's church is Angel-court,
at the upper end of which is a handsome old house^
formerly
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LONDOIV AND ITS ENVIRONS. 113
formerly the Farthing Office. It was afterwards
occii{Hed by the Hand in Hand Fire Office, and is
now the residence of Mr. Spilsbury, a printer.
fietweeu Snow-htll and Ludgate*hill, runs the
street called the Old Bailey, which many of our
antiquaries are of opinion is a corruption of Bale-
hillj an eminence whereon was situated the Baky
or BailiiTs-faouse, wherein he held a court for the
trial of malefactors ; and this opinion seems to be
corroborated by such a court having been held here
for many centuries, in which there is a place of
security, where the sheriffs keep their prisoners
during the session, which still retains the name of
the Bale-dock.
On the east side of the Old Bailey, and contigu-
ous to the place where the Newgate of the city
formerly stood^ is the gaol for the county of Mid-
dlesex, which from being appropriated to the same
uses, also bears the name of Newgate. It is a
massy stone building, consisting of two parts, that
on the north being appropriated for debtors, and
that on the south for felons, between which is a
dwelling house, occupied by the keeper. The
whole of the front is formed of rustic work, and
at the extremities of each face is an arched niche
for a statue, but only the two in front of the felon's
side are yet occupied.
Contiguous to this building, and only separated
from it by a squarecourt, is Justice-hall, commonly
called the Sessions-house.
This was formerly a plain brick edifice ; but it
has lately been rebuilt entirely of stone, and is
brought so much forwarder than the old one as to
be parallel with the street. On each of the sides
is a flight of steps that lead to the court-room,
which has a gallery on each side for the accomuio-
dation
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144 HISTORY AVI> SVRYCYOf
dation of spectators. The prisoners are brought
to this cxmrt from Newgate by a passage that
closely connects the twt> buildings; and there i«
a convenient place under the Seissions^housein frotit,
for detaining the prisoners tiH they are called upon
thei r. trials^ There are also rooms for the grand^nd
petty jury, with other necessary accomnicNdations.
A court is held here eight times a year by the
king's commission of oyer and terminer, for the
trial of prisoners for crimes committed withfn the
citv of London and county of Middlesex* The
judges are the lord-mayor, the aldermen past the
chair, and the recorder, who, on such occasions^
are attended by both the sheriffs, and by one or
more of the national judges* The offences com-
mitted in the city are tried by a jury of citizens and
those committed in the county by a jury formed of
tthe house-keepers in the county.
The crimes tried in this court are high and petty
treason, murder, felony, forgery, petty larceny;
burglary, &c.
At the back of tlie Sessionsrhouse is a conveni-
ent passage covered over for the judges and coun-
sellors that attend the court
Opposite to the north end of the Old Bailey is
Giltspur-street, which leads into Smithfield. On
the east side of Giltspur-street, in a line with New^
gate, is Giltspur street Compter. U is composed
of three pavilions crowned with triangular pedi-
ments, and connected by two galleries with flat
roofs. The whole of this building, like Newgate,
is of rustic stone work, but having arched win-
dows to the front, it has a lighter appearance.
The corner opposite the north end of this build-
ing, is remarkable for being the spot where the fire
of London terminated : which event is commemo-
rated
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ijordon am> its environs. . 145
rated by the figure of a bloated boy on the corner
house, bearing an inscription, purporting that this
dreadful conflagration was a punishment for the sin
of gluttony.
Soiithfield, or as it is sometimes called to distin-
guish it from a place of the same name in the east-
ern part of the town, West Smithfield, is the great-
est market for black cattle^ sheep and horses,
in £urope; for the latter of which it was cele-
brated by Fit2-Stephen, towards the close of the
twelfth century. It is also a market for hay and
straw.
Smithfield is supposed to have received its name
from one Smith, the owner thereof, and from its
having been originally a smooth or level field.
It was anciently much larger than it now appears,
its area being greatly diminished by the buildings
with which it is enclosed : the whole west side ex-
tcndedas far as the sheep-market does at present,
and was called the Elms, from the number of
those trees that grew there. This spot appeai-s to
have been the common place of execution for cri-
minals in the year 1219.
King Henry II. granted to the priory of St. Bar-
tholomew the privilege of a fair to be kept an-
nually at Bartholomew- tide, on the eve, the day,
and the morrow, to which the clothiers of England,
and the drapers of London repaired, and had their
booths and standings in the church-yard withiq.
the priory, which was separated from Smitlifield
only by walls and gates that \^ere locked every
night, and watcheJ, for the safety of the goods de-
posited there ; and the narrow street or lane after-
wards built where the cloth was sold, still retains
the name of Cloth Fair.
VOL. III. u This
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146 HISTORY AND SURVEY OP
This fair, which was at first iiisituted for the con-^
venience of trade, was at length prolonged to a
fortnight, and became of little other use but far
idle youth and loose people to resort to ; on which,
in the year 1708, an order of coramon council was
made, by which it was again reduced to the origi-
nal term of three days, and the booths for drolls
and plays erected in the middle of Smithfield, by
the falling of which several persons had lost their
lives, were prohibited 4n future ; but the latter part
of the order is no longer attended to.
A court of pie- powder is held daily during this
fiiir, to determine all differences between the per-
sons frequenting it.
In the days of chivalry, Smithfield was the place
where justs and tournaments were held before our
kings and their courts; of which several instances
are upon record, particularly in the reigns of Ed*
ward III. Richard II. Henry IV. V. VL and Ed-
ward IV.
In the middle part of Smithfield, and in the
centre of the space how inclosed with rails, many
martyrs were burnt at the stake, for their steady
adherence to the principles of the Reformation,
and their opposing the doctrines peculiar to the
church of Rome.
Though Smithfield is a very extensive stjuare,
surrounded with many good buildings, yet the area
of it is in general exceeding filthy ; owing to the
greatnumber of cattle, horses, &c. that are brought
to it twice a week. Th6 area is the market-plac^
for beasts and horses ; the north-west corner for
sheepand calves, and the north-east comer for hogs»
On the east side of Smithfield is the magnificent
hospital of St. Bartholomew, which appears to have
been
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Pu^HMnf iv LHi^h,-^ ^it/i.'^ent rmrf ^Jy iSo^^.
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LONDON AND ITft ENYIltON9. 147
been the first establishment of this nature in Ten-
don, having been founded in the year 1102, by
Habere, minstrel to Henry I. who quitting his gay
life, founded a priory of black canons, which he
dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and became himself
the first prior. He afterwards obtained from the
king a piece of waste ground, on which he
built an hospital, for a master, brethren, and
sbters, and for the relief of the diseased and
maimed poor, which he placed under the care of
the priory.
Both the priory and hospital were surrendered to
Henry VIII. who, in the last year of his reign,
refounded the latter, and endowed it with an an-
nual revenue of five hiindred marks, on condition
that the city should pay an equal sum ; which pro*
posal being accepted, the new foundation was in-
corporated by the name of ** The Hospital of the
Mayor, Commonalty, and Citizens of London^
Governors for the Poor, called Little St. Bartho-
lomew's, near West Smithfield." Since this time
the hospital has received considerable benefactions
from charitable persons, by which means the
governors have been enabled to admit all indigent
persons maimed by accident, at any hour of the
day or night, without previous recommendation ;
and the sick, on Thursdays, on which daysacon>
mittee of governors sit to examine persons apply-
ing for admission^ The patients, whether sick or
maimed, are provided with lodging, food, medicine
and attendance, and have the advice and assistance
of some of the most eminent physicians and sur*
geons in the kingdom.
Notwithstanding the old building escaped the
dreadful fire in 16^, yet the chief part of its re-
venues
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148 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
venues being in hdusesy the hospital was gmtlj
injured by that calamity. In the year 1729, the
hospital became so ruinous that there appeared an
absolute necessity for rebuilding it ; and a sub*
scription was entered into by many of the gover-
nors, and other charitable persons, among whom
was Dr. RatclifFe, for defraying the expense, upon
a plan then prepared, containing four detached
piles of stone building, to be connected by gate-
ways, and to form a quadrangle.
The first stone of this building was laid on the
S)th of June, 1730, by Sir George Brocas, the
lord-mayor, in the presence of several aldermen
and governors ; and the eastern side of the square,
which compleatedthe whole, beingfinished in 1770,
it is now one of the most pleasing structures in
London, when viewed from the area within^ which
it surrounds, and where only it can be seen to ad^
vantage.
That part which opens to Smithfield, and which
may be esteemed the principa,l front, is allotted for
the public business of the hospital. It contains a
large hall for the g^eneral courts of the governors ;
a counting house for the meetings of committees ;
rooms for examining, admitting, and discharging
patients ; with other necessary offices. In this
part of the building is a stair^^case painted and
given by the late Mr. Hogarth, consisting of two
pictures, representing the Good Samaritan and the
Pool of Betbesda ; which, for truth of colour*
ing and expression, are thought to equal any thing
of the kind in Europe.
In the hall is a full length portrait of Henry VIII,
and another of Dr. Ratclifie, who bequeathed five
hundred pounds a year to the hospital^ for the im«
provem^nt
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LONDON AND ITS EKVIROXS. ]4>9
provemeBt of the diet; and one hundred pounds a
year to buy linen. In one of the windows, is a re-
presentation in stained glass, of Henry VIII. de*
livering the charter to the lord-mayor.
The front of the hospital towards Smithfield is
adorned with pilasters, entablature, and pediments
of the Ionic order, with the figure of King Henry
VIII. standing in full proportion in a niche ; and
the figures of two cripples on the pediment. Be-
neath the figure of the king is the following in-
scription :
'^Bartholomew's Hospital, founded by Rahere,
Anno 1J02. Refounded by King Henry VUI.
Anno 1546."
Underneath which is the following : " This front
was rebuilt Anno 1702, in the first year of Queen
Anne. - Sir William Prichard, Knt. and alderman,
president. John Nichol, £sq. treasurer/*
The other three sides of the quadrangle contain
the wards for the reception of patients ; in each
of which are between twenty and thirty beds.
There are three physicians, tlir^e surgeons, three
assistant surgeons, and an apothecary, belonging
to this hospital.
Within the principal gate of this hospital stands
the parochial church of St. Bartholomew the Less,
which was originally a chapel to the hospital, and
founded at the same time; but at the dissolution
of the priory, it was converted into a parish
church for the inhabitants of the precinct of the
hospital.
It is a vicarage, the patronage of which has been
in the governors of the hospital ever since the-
grant of that establishment to the citizens of Lon-
don. The church is an old fabrick, enlightened
with a single series of windows, and having a
square
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150 BUTOHY AHD SU&TEY OF
square tower with a turret at one eorner, likic
the fire beacons of many of the old churches.
It is ninety-nine feet in length, forty-two in
breadth, and thirty-four in height, and the alti*
tude of the tower is seventy-four feet ; and as the
building escaped the fire jn 1( 66, it is very an*
cient.
On the CBKt side of Smithfield, and at the north
end of Duck-lane, stands the parish church of St.
Bartholomew the Great.
This church was originally a parish church ad-
{'oining to that of the priory of St. Bardiolomew ;
>ut when the latter was pulled down to the choir,
that part was annexed by the king's order, for the
enlargement of the old church ; in which manner
it continued till queen Mary gave the remnant of
the priory church to the Black Friars^ who used it
as their conventional church till the first year of
queen Elizabeth, when the friars were turned out,
and the church was restored^ by act of parliament,
to the parish.
The present church is the same as it stood in the
reign of Edward VI. except the steeple, which be-
ing of timber was taken down in the year 1628,
and a new one, of brick and stone, erected. . It is
a spacious edifice of the Gothic and Tuscan orders,
one hundred and thirty-two feet long, fifty-seven
broad, and forty- seven high ; and the altitude of
the tower is seventy-five feet.
On the north side of the chancel is an elegant
monument of Rahere, beneath an arch, supported
by tabernacle work. His effigy is recumbent with
his hands joined over his breast There is an angel
at his feet, and a friar in the attitude of prayer, on
each side of him. This monument was repaired and
beautified by William Bolton, the last prior.
The
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De^Khedir F.r^r-cd (bcLazubcrf* IfifiB'jot" Loajion.
^^iyU'7/u/'/,'^ cj///^ h/^^^^'Tif r/\:^a^^^v/u^^
r^^/kM ty r rti^ht StaArrur.- ^urr frt I/<»J
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JJOVDOK AXD ITS EKVIRONS. 15 1
The patronage of this church, which, in all pro-
l^s^jiity, was anciently in the prior and canons of
"^ tholomew, is now in private hands. This
F.MiU claims an exemption from the jurisdic-
^dic city, so far as to protect non-freemen in
Iff on tneir respective trades,
the south side of this church is a large open
piece of ground, called Bartholomew-close, where
was anciently a cemetery, and the court-yard be-
longing to the old priory of St. Bartholomew; in
which the fair was kept till it was removed into
Smithfield.
Part of the cloisters is still preserved in the
Black-horse Livery-stables, consisting of eight
arches, ornamented with the rude sculpture of the
times ; and there are several vestiges of the priory
to be seen in a narrow passage to the north of the
stable; adjacent to which is part of the south
transept, now converted into a small burial-ground.
Northward from this is Long-lane, built without
the north wall of the priory, in the time of Henry
IL when, according to Stow, the booths in the
church-yard being taken down, a number of tene-
ments were erected in Long-lane, for such as
would give great rents. It is probable that none
of the original buildings remain ; but those on the
south side offer the largest aggregate of the rude
dwellings of our forefathers now in existence in
the metropolis. Whoever considers the materials
of Which these buildings preformed, and the ob-
struction that must have been given to a free cir-
culation of air, by the method of constructing them
with one story overhanging another, and extends
his view to a metropolis composed chiefly of such
fabrics, will cease to wonder at the frequency
and extent of the conflagrations, and pestilen-
tial
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169 HISTORY AND SC7RV£Y OF
tial diseases, with which London was formerly af-
flicted.
On the north side of Smithfield is the great
opening, called Smithiield-bars» from the bars
which separated the city liberty from the county,
on that side, having been placed there.
CHAP.
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tdKO&M AKD ITS KHVIROMS. 169
CHAP. XXIX.
t)f Bridge-ward withoHt J dr, the Borough of Southwark.
— Extent. Principal-streets ^^^St. OlavC'^St.Johnj
Harsley-down. — Bnige-house, — St. Saviour, or, St.
Mary Overies, Winchester-house. — The Stews.^^^
Sioney 'Street. — St. Thomases-hospital, — St. Thomas^S'
church. Guy*s-hospitaL — -S/. Margaret* s-hilL—^
Town-hall. Marshulsea Prison and Court. ^--^---Old
County-gaol. — 5^. George. — The Mint, — Union-hall.-^
Kmg's-iench-Prison. — "New-gaol, Horsemonger-lane.
— Obelisk. — Christ-church. — The Magdalen-house.'^^
Free Mason's Charity -school.
Bri DO E-WA RD without^ though a part of the
jurisdiction of the city of London, is in another
county, and is divided from it by the river Thames.
It contains nearly the whole of the Borough of
Southwark, and extends from London Bridge to
Newington in the south, almost to Lambeth in the
south-west, and to Rotherhithe in the east The
principal streets in it are the Borough Uigh-street»
St Margaret's- hi 11, Blackman-street, part of Long-
lane, Kent-street, Tooley, or St -Olave's-street,
and a new street leading from St. Margaret Vhill
to Black-friars, called Union-street
This ward may be said to be only nominal ; for
though it has an alderman, he is not elective by
the inhabitants, nor have they any representatives
in the court of common-council. The senior
alderman of London, who is termed father of the
city, is therefore removed to this ward, whenever
a vacancy occurs, us an honourable sinecure which
relieves him from the fatigues of ward business.
Some authors have supposed that Southwark was
the first place of trade with the Romans^ and that
vol.. Ill X London
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1^ tilStOA* AND SURVEY OF
London arose from it; but although this opinrati
is without foundation^ it is however certain that
ever since London began to flourish,* Southwark>
as one of its appendages, and connected with it in
commerce, has experienced a proportionate pros-
perity. .
The first mention we find of Sonthwark in his-
tory, is in the reign of Edward tlie Confessor,
about the year 1053; at wliich time it appears to
have been a corporation governed by abailifi', and
it contiiiued in that state till the year 1S37, when
the city of London obtained a grant of it from
the crown, and the mayor was to appoint all its
oflScers. Some few years after the inhabitants re-
cm'ered their former privileges, and kept possession
of them till the reign of Edward VI. when the
crown made a second grant of it to the city of
London, for a valuable consideration.
At the same time London purchased all the pri-
vileges belonging to the archbishops of Canterbury*
and abbots of Bermondsey in Soutlnvark ; and from
that period it has been annexed to London, and is
governed by one of the aldermen, and a steward
and bailiff appointed by the mayor and common-
countil; the former of whom holds a court of record
at St. Margaret's-hill. for all debts, damages and
trespasses within his limits.
That part of the Borough of Southwark, which is
subject to the city of l-,ondon, is called the Borough
Liberty;, the other division is called the Clink,
find belongs to the Bishop of Winchester, who ap-
points a stCM'ard and bailiff, under whom that dis-
trict is governed.
Notwithstanding the royal grants of the Borough
of Southwark to the city of London, the Surrey
magistrates preserve an authority of" appointing
tnmstables.
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LQMDON AKD ITS KNVIRONS. Hi
constables, licensing victuallersy and exercising
other powers as justices of the peace for the
county.
We shall begin the survey of this ward or borough
at Tooley, or St. Olave's-street, which is situated
on the east-side of the entrance into the Higb-
street from London- bridge. This street is long, but
in some parts narrow, and is in general exceeding
dirty, owing to the great number of carts that
are continually passing with goods from the
different wharfs on the south side of the river
Thames.
At a small distance from London-Bridge, on the
north side of this street, stands the parish church o^'
St.Olave.
Though it cannot be ascertained at what time a
church was first situated on this spot, yet it is meiv-
tioned as early as the year 1481. However, part
of the old church falling down in 1736, and the
rest being in a ruinous condition, the parishionera
applied to parliament tor apower to rebuild it, which
Mng granted, the remains of the old building
were taken down in the year 1737, and the present
structure finished in 1739. It consists of a piaiu
body strengthened with rustic quoins at the corr
ners ; the door is well proportioned without orna-
ment, and the windows are placed in three series;
the lowest is upright, but considerably broad;
those above them circular, and the others on the roof
are large and semi-circular. The tower consist^
of three stages, the uppermost of which is consi-
derably diminished : in this is tlie clock, and 14
the stages below are large windows. The top of
the tower is surrounded by a plain substantial balusr
trade, and the whole has an air of plainness apd
simplicity.
This parish is a rectory, the patronage of whicb
is in the gift of the crown.
The
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156 UISTOllTf AND SURVEY OF
The parish of St. Olave, like many others in the
suburbs of London, being greatly increased both
in number, of houses and inhabitants, the com-t
missioners for erecting fifty new churches within
the bills of mortality, purchased the ground, in
which the trained bands of Southwark formerly
exercised, and, from that circumstance, called the
artillery ground, whereon they erected a parish
church, for the district of Horsley-doWn, and
dedicated it to St. John the Evangelist, the inha^
bitants having obtained an act of parliament for
constituting this portion of the parish of St. Olave
into a separate parish, and making a provision for
its rector.
This church was finished in 1732. The body
of it is enlightened- by two ranges of windows^
with a Venetian one in the center, over the door.
The east end is circular, and with a dome; and at
the west end is a square tower rising from the roof^
ornamented with pilasters, and having a balustrade
on the top, within which is a square course sup-
porting a neat fluted spire crowned with the volutea
of the Ionic order. This parish is a rectory, and
being taken out of St. Olave's, the patronage is in
the crown.
Near St. Olave's church is situated the Bridge-r
house, which consists of several buildings adapted
as store-houses for timber, stone, and other ma-
terials for repairing London-bridge. In former times
liere were several granaries for the service of the
city in times of scaicity; and also ten ovens and a
brewhouse for making bread and b??r for the relief
of the poor citizens ; but these granaries are now
applied to the use of the cornfaciors, who here lay
in consfiderable quantities of corn. The Bridge*
house is under the management of the bridge-
masters, whose pffice is to look after the repara-
tion of London-bridge.
Adjoinin
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OP
LOUDON AND ITS ENTIROKS. IdT
Adjoining to the Bridge house-yard formerly
stood a large house of stone and wood, the city
residence of the abbot of St Augustin's in Can-
terbury; which afterwards descending to Sir An-
thony Sentlegar, the site thereof was converted
into a wh^rf, which, by an easy transition, is now
called Selleuger's Wharl;
On the east side of the Bridge yard was formerly
situated the mansion of the abbot of Battle in Sus*
sex, the name whereof is partly preserved by the
place called Battle-bridge ; opposite to which, on
the south, lay its fine and spacious garden, wherein
was a maze, or labyrinth, the name whereof is also
preserved by the spot of ground, which consists
of several streets, being at this time called the Maze.
West of London Bridge is the parochial church
of St Saviour, or St. Mary Overies.
On thespot where this church standswas anciently
situated a priory of nuns, founded by one Mary,
the owner of a ferry over the river Thames, before
the building of London*bridge. This accounts
for the derivation of the latter name, which cippears
to have been originally called St Mary ot the
Ferry; but at length, as we now find it, St
Mary Overies.
The priory was afterwards converted into a colp .
lege of priests ; but that establishnjent, as well as
the former, proving of no long duration, it was,
in the year 1 106, foundrd by two Norman kniglits,
William Pont de la Arch, and William Dauncy,
and the Bishop of VVinchester, for canons regular;
and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
In the year 1207, this college was burnt down ;
but Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, re-
built it, and added to it a fine chapel for the use
of the canons, which he dedicated to St. Mary
Magdalen. This structure remained till the reign
3 of
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lift HMTO&Y AMD SU&V£Y OV
of Richard 11. when the whole was pulled down
and rebuilt, togetli^r with the conventual church,
which, by act of parliament in the reign of Henry
VIII. was made parochiali and sold by that prince
to the inhabitants of St. Maj^garet's on the Hill
)and St. Mary's, after which it was called by the
name of St. Saviour's.
This is, perhaps, the largest parish church in
the kingdom, and is a noble Gothic structure in
the form of a cathedral, only that some additions
have been made to it of brick. These, however,
being placed in the room of such parts as were de-
cayed, the uniformity of it is not hurt, and the
whole has a grand and venerable appearance.
The length of the church is two hundred and
^ixty feet, and that of the cross aisle one hundred
and nine; the breadth of the body is fifty-fourfeet,
and the heighth of the tower, including the pin-
nacles, is one hundred and (it>y feet. Tlie con-
struction of Che windows, entrance, and every
other part, except one door, which is modern, is
purely in the Gothic style. The tower, whicli is
«quare, and well proportioned, is supported by
massy pillars jover tlie meeting of the middle and
cross isles : it is crowned with battlements; and at
each corner is a tall slender pinnacle.
The inside is extremely grand, and in it are many
monuments to the memory of eminent persons,
3ome of which have been lately repaired by tlie de-
scendants of those families who have made choice
of this place for their interment. Among these, in
a chapel at the east end of the church, is a re-
markable monument belonging to the family of the
Afistin s, erected in the year 16^6 ; and again^
the north wall, is that of the celebrated English
poet John Gower, a great benefactor to the
church in thereigusof £dward lU. and Richard XL
Thi*^
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This church is noted for having a fine peal of
bells. It is a rectory, in the gift of the parish.
Adjoining to this church is Montague Close, so,
called from the mansion of the loi^ Montague,
which was formerly situated on this spot, as was
also that of the lord Monteagle. In this close it
is said the Gun-powder-plot was discovered by the
miscarriage of a letter, to one of which lords it
was delivered by mistake instead of delivering it to
the other; for which happy discovery; Montague
Close enjoyed several distinguishing privileges,
particularly one, viz. that whoever dwelt there was
exempt from having any actions of -debt, tres-
pass, &c. served on tliem. But this privilege, with
several others, has been long suppressed.
At the west end of St. Saviour's church was an-
tiently situated Winchester-house, which was at
first erected by William GifFord, bishop of that
see, about the year 1 107. Till the civil wars, this
was the town residence of the prelates of that sec
during their attendance on parliament. Much of
it is yet standing, tenanted by different families, or
converted into warehouses. The great court is
called Winchester square, fcd in the adjacent
street is the abutment of one of the gates. Ad-
joining to it on the south, stood the mansion of the
Bishop of Rochester, but when, orby whom erected,
is not known.
At a small distance from this, and in the place
now called Bank-side, were formerly the stews, or
public bawdy-houses, licenced and regulated by
the Bishop of Winchester; for the government of
which certain regulations were made by the said
bishop that were confirmed by parliament. Among
these were the following :
** That no stew holder shall molest or obstruct
any single woman from li^ving access to, and
liberty
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160 HIstdAir AK0 AtJEVBV 6f
liberty to withdraw from, his house at pleasure. -*»•
lliatno stew-keeper permit any woman to board ia
Ills house. -^To take no more for a woman's apartment
than fourteeo-pence per week. — Not to keep open
the doors on holidays. — Not to detain any single
woman thatis willing to reform. — Not to receive any
woman that is devoted to religion, uor any man's
wife. — No woman to take money for lying with a
man, unless it be for a whole night. — No man to
be artfully deluded into a stew. — That the several
stews be searched weekly, by the bailiff, constables,
&c. — That no stewholder entertain any woman
that has the perilous infirmity of burning; nor
to sell bread, flesh, ale, or auy other sort of provi-
sions.''
These orders were to be observed by the said
«te\v-holders on very severe penalties : and for
securing all persons accused of crimes committed
in this district, a prison was erected, denominated
the Clink. This prison is still in being, and the
Bishop of Winchester's steward tries pleas of
debt, damages or trespass, in the liberty, for any
sum.
These stews, or hewdy -houses, were plundered
by Wat Tyler, in the year 1381, at which time
it appears they were kept by Flemish bawds. In
the year 1506 they were shut up by order of Henry
VII. but, being again opened soon after, their
number was reduced from eighteen to twelve : and,
in the year 1546, they were, by proclamation of
Henry VIII. entirely suppressed.
A little to the west of this church is Stoney-
street, which terminating on the bank of the
Thames, nearly opposite to Dowgate, was probably
the continuation of the Watling-street road.
• Near the middle of the borough High-street,
on the east side stands St. Thomas's Hospital, a
very
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LOVDOK AKD IT8 EVTIAONi. I6l
very handsome itooe building, and a fioUe and
extensive charity for the reception of the neces*
sitous sick and wounded.
With respect to the origin of this hospital, it is
to be observed, that the priory of St Mary Overies
being destroyed by fire in the year ISOZ^ the canons
erected an oc^casional edifice, at a small distance, to
answer the same purpose, till their monastery could
be rd>u]lt; which being accomplished, reterde
Ruptbus, Bishop of Winchester, for the greater
convenience of air and water, pulled it down in
IS 15, and removed it to a place where the prior of
Bermondsey had two years before built«an almonry,
or alms*house, for the reception of indigent
children, and necessitous proselytes. The hospital
was now dedicated to St. Thomas the Apostle, and
endowed with land to the value of 3431. a year :
from which time it was held of the Abbot of Ber-
mondsey, until tlie dissolution of the religious
houses, when it fell into the hands of Henry VIII.
When the corporation of London purchased the
manor of South wark, in 1551, the hospital was
immediately repaired and enlarged ; and, in the
November following, there were received into it
two hundred and fifty sick and helpless objects.
The hospital still retained its original name of St.
Thomas; and in 1552, as hath been already men-
tioned, King Edward VL granted a charter, by
which the mayor and commonalty of London were
incorporated governors of the same.
Tliough this hospital escaped the great fire in
]666, yet grea^ part of its possessions were then
destroyed ; and two other fires, that afterwards
happened in Soutbwark, reduced it to great dis*
tress. The building g;rew old and wanted repairs,
and the funds on winch it depended for support
failed. However, in 1699, the governors opened ^
vol.. III. r subscription
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i6)i HfSTORT ABO) SURVEY OF
subscription for rebuilding it on a more extemive
plan, which was executed at different times, and
completed in the year 1732.
The hospital now consists of three quadrangles,
or square courts. In the front, next the street,
is a handsome pair of large iron gates, with a door
of the same work on each side, for the convenience
of foot-passengers. These are fastened on the sides
to'^stone piers, on each of which is a statue repre-
senting one of the patients. These gates open into
a very neat square court, encompassed on three
sides with a colonnade, surrounded wilh benches,
next the waH, for the accommodation of people to
sit and rest themselves. On the south side, under
an empty niche, is the following inscription :
This building, on the south side of this court,
containing three wards, was erected at the
charge of Thomas Fredcrick, of London,
Esq; a worthy governor and liberal benefactor
to this hospital. Anno 1708.
On the opposite side, under the same kind of
niche, is this inscriptioti :
This building, on the north side of this court,
containing three wards, was erected at the
charge of Thomas Guy, Esq. citizen and
stationer of London, a worthy governor and
bountiful benefactor to this hospital, Anno
1707.
The center of the principal front, facing the
street, is of stone. On the. top is a clock, under
a small circular pediment, and beneath that, in a
niche, the statue of King Edward VI. hohliug a
gilt sceptre in his right hand, and the charter in
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LOKDON AND ITS SKTIRONS. l6$
his left. A little lower, in niches on each side, is
a man with a crutch, and a sick woman ; and, an*
der them, in other niches, a man with a wooden
leg, and a woman with her arm in a sling. Over
the niches are festoons, and between the last-
mentioned figures, the kings arms in relievo : un*
der which is this inscription:
King Edward the Sixth, of pious memory,
in the year of our Lord 155£, founded and
endowed this Hospital of St. Thomas the
Apostlk, together with the Hospitals of
Christ, and Bridewell, in London.
Underneath this is a spacious passage, down se*
veral steps, into the second Court, which is more
elegant than the former. This has also colonnades,
except at the front of the chapel, which is on the
north side, and is adorned with lofty pilasters of
the Corinthian order, placed on high pedestals.
On the top is a pediment, as well as in the center
of the east and west sides, and above the piazzas,
the fronts of the wards are ornamented with hand-
some Ionic pilasters.
In the center of this court is a handsome brass
statue of King Edward VL by Mr. Scheemakers ;
behind which is placed, on a kind of small pe*
destai, his crown laid upon a cushion. The statue
is enclosed with iron rails, and stands upon a lofty
stone pedestal, on which is the following inscripi^
tion, in capitals :
This statue
Of King Edward the Sixth,
A most excellent Prince,
Of exemplary Piety and Wisdomi
above his years ;
The
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164 HIBTO&T AHD WltVSY Off
The glory atad oroament of hfl tge,
and most munificent foundei
Of this hospitai,
Was erected at the expense
Of Charles Joyce, Esquire,
in the year MDcdxxxyii.
On the opposite side of the pedestal is the same
inscription in Latin.
In the center of the east side of this court is a
spacious passage into the next, the structure above
being supported by two rows of columns. The build-
ings in the thiid court lire older than the ethers,
and are entirely surrounded with a colonnade,
above which they are adorned with a kind of long,
slender, Ionic pilasters, with very small capitals.
In the center is a stone statue of l^ir Robert Clay-
t<in, dressed in his robes as lord mayor, surrounded
l¥ith tfon rails; upon the west side of the pedestal
is bis arms in relievo, and on tht south side, the
following inscription :
To Sir Robert Clayton, Knt. born in Northamp-
tonshire, citizen and Lord Mayor of London,
pitrsident of this hospital, and vice-president
of the new workhouse, and a bountiful bene-
factor to it ; a just magistrate, and brave de-
fender of the liberty and religion of his coun-
try. Who (besides many other instances of
his charity to the poor) built the girls' ward
in Christ's hospital, gave first, towards the re-
building of this house, six hundred "pounds,
and left, by his last will, two thousand three
hundred pounds to the poor of it This statue
was erected in his life-time, by the governors,
An. Dom. mdcci. as a monument of their
esteem of so much worth, and^ to preserve his
,9 jjnemory
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LPNDOy AND ITS EKVIROKS. \65
memory after death, was by them beautified,
Au. Dom. MPGCxiv.
Sioce the foundation of this extensive charity,
ao incredible number of distressed objects have re->
ceived relief from it ; and though the estates origin
sally belonging to the hospital were ruined, yet,
hy the liberality and benevolence of the citizens
sod others, its revenues have not only been re*
stored, but augmented, and its annual disburse-
ments now amount to a very considerable sum.
It contains nineteen wards, and upwards of five
hundred beds, which are constantly occupiedi and
the mode of admitting patients is the same as at
Sl Bartholomew's hospital ; for which purpose, a
committee of governors sits here oh every Thurs^
day forenoon.
Contiguous to this hospital, on the north side of
St Thomas's-street, stands the parish churcli of
St Thomas, which was originally erected for the
use of the hospital; but the number of houses
within the precinct of the hospital having increased
greatly, it was judged necessary to make the church
parochial for the inhabitants, and to erect a chapel
in the liospital for the use of the patients: this
church is therefore a sort of impropriation, in tlie
gift of the governors of the hospital, who chuse
ooe out of two persons returned by the parishioners.
Thia church is a plain brick building^ enlight-
ened by one series of large windows, and the cor*
ners strengthened and adorned with rustic work.
The length of it is one hundred and fifty*six feet, its
breadth thirty-three feet,the height of the roof twenty,
eight feet, and that of the tower ninety-two feet
Behind St Thomas's hospital, on the opposite
side of St Thomas's-street, stands another founda**
tion of the same description, little inferior to it ia
. extent,
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166 HISTORY AND SURVIRY OF
extent, but more remarkable from the circumstance
of its having been built and endowed by a single
individual.
Mr. Thomas Gu)% the founder, had, from a small
beginning, by industry and frugality, amassed an
immense fortune] but more particularly by pur-
chasing seamen's tickets, in the reign of Queen
Anne, and by buying and selling South-sea stock,
in the year 1720. He was never married, and had
no ftear relations; therefore, towards the close of
his life, considering how he should dispose of his
wealth, he at length resolved to be the founder of
the most extensive charity ever established by one
man.
Mr. Guy was seventy-six years of age when he
formed this resolution, and, having no time to lose,
immediately purchased of the governors of St.
Thomas's hospital, a lease of a piece of ground,
nearly opposite to that hospital, for the term of
nine hundred and ninety-nine years, at a ground-
rent of thirty pounds a year. As this spot was co-
vered with small houses, that were old and ill-
tenanted, he gave proper notice to the inhabitants
to quit them ; which being done, he pulled down
the buildings in the year 172 1, and proceeding with
the greatest expedition, he caused the foundation
of the intended hospital to be laid the following
spring; and the building was pursued with such
alacrity, that it was roofed in befori the death of
the founder, which happened on the 27th of De-
cember, in the year 1724.
The only motive which induced Mr. Guy to
erect this hospital in so low and close a situation,
was, his design of putting it under the management
and direction of the governors of that of St. Tho-
mas's. By the advice of his friends, he altered his
r^olution ; but it was then too late to think of
chusing
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LOKPON AM0 ITS ENYIROHfl. 16/
chusing another sicufttion; for the building was at
that time raised to the second story. However, he
rendered the place as agreeable as possible, by its
elevation above the neighbouring streets.
The whole expense of erecting and furnishing
this hospital, amounted to the sum of eighteen
thousand seven hundred and ninety-two pounds
sixteen shillings, great part of which Mr. Guy ex-*
peaded in his life- time; and he left two hundred
and nineteen thousand* four hundred and ninety-
nine pounds to endow it ; both together amounting
to two hundred and thirty-eight thousand two
hundred and ninety-two pounds sixteen shillings;
a much larger sum than was ever left before in this
kingdom, by one single person, to charitable pur-
poses.
This building consists of two quadrangles, beside
the two wiqgs that extend, from the front to the
street. The wing on the west side has been lately
added, and is built with such elegance and uui*
furmity, as to make the whole a very handsome
and regular edifice.
The entrance into the building is by an elegant
and noble iron gate, supported by stone piers.
These gates open into a snuare, in the center of
which is a brazen statue of the founder, by Mr..
Scheemakers, dressed in a livery gown, and well
executed* In the front of the^ pedestal is this in«
scription :
Thomas Gut, sole Foundkr op this Hospi^
TAL IN HIS LlFifl-TlME. A. D. MDCCXXI.
On the west side of the pedestal is represented^
in bassQ relievo, the parable of the Good Samaritan;
on the south side are Mr. Guy's arms; and on that
side
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I6S Hiwoay and sunvfiv of
side of the pedestal facing tl>e east, is our Savioiit
healing the impotent man.
The superetrHctiire of this hmpital has thvee
floors besides the garrets, and the same construe*
tion runs thix>ugh the whole building, which is so
extensive as to contain twelve wards, in which are
four hundred and thirty-five beds, exclusive of
those that may be placed in the additional part ;
and the whole is advantageously disposed for the
mutual accommodation of tlie sick, and those who
attend them.
A short time after Mr. Guy's decease, his exe-
cutors, pursuant to his last will, applied to parlia*
nient, to get themselves, with fifty-one other gen-
tlemen nominated by the testator, to be incorpo-
rated governors of the intended hospital; upon
which all these gentlemen were constituted a body
politic and corporate, by the name of the President
and Governors of Guy's Hospital By this act of
incorporaticm, they were to have perpetual succes-
sion, and a common seal, with the power of possess-
ing the real and personal estates of the late Thomas
Guy, Esq. for the purposes of the will, and to pur-
chase, in perpetuity, or for any term of years, any
other estate whatsoever, not exceeding twelve tlwu-
sand pounds per annum.
As soon as this corporation was established by
parliament, the governors immediately set about
completing the work, by finishing and furnishing
the hospital, and taking in patients, the number of
whom, at first, amounted to four hundred and two.
The olEcers and servants belonging to this hospital
are chosen by the governors, who have, ever since,
carried on this noble charity in such manner as to
answer, in the strictest degree, the benevolent in-
tentions of the founder.
The
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L0»D«1I JIIVP ITS EKTIKOVS. 10$
The sne^kal establisliitieiit aod forms of admis-
sion are similar to those of Stw Tliomas's hospital,
but the day for receiving patients i» Wednesday.
Then is a Kbrary, and a collection of anatomical
pveparatfcm bdeng^og to this instttntion.
Some farther notice will be taken of the fouMlcr
in the biographical department
At the south extremity of the Borough High-
street, formerly stood a church dedicated to St«
Margaret on the Hiil, the site of which is now oc-
cupied by a court of justice, or town-hall. It is a
ttodern built brick edifice, the front of which' is
ornamented with stone, and consists of a rustic
basement story, above which are a series of lonie
pilasters, and the whole is crowned with a hand-
some batastrade.
The steward for the city of London holds a
couvt of record here, every Monday, for all debts,
damages, and trespasses, within his limits.
Besides thi^ court, there are three court^leets
held in the bdrough, for its three liberties, or ma-
nors, vi2. the great liberty, the guildable, and the-
king's manor; in which are chosen coustable9, ale*
conners, &c.
Sooth from tliis court runs a spaciotis, well built
street, inhabited by substantial tradesmen and- inn*
keepers, and called St. Margaret's-hill.
On the east side of this street is the Marshalsea
prison, which is a place of confinement for person^
who have committed crimes at sea, as pirates, &c.
and also for debtors. In this prison is the Mar-
sbalsea-court) the judges of which are the lord
steward of his majesty's household for the time
being, the steward of the court, who must be a bar-*
rister at law, and a. deputy steward. In all civil*
actions^ tried in this court, both the plaintiff and'
dtfendant must belong to his majesty's household.
VOL. III. z The
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170 HISTORY AND SURVCT OF
The persons confined in this prison for crimes at
sea, are tried at the Old- bailey.
In the same prison, is the palaoe-court, the juris-
diction of which extends twelve miles round tlie
palace of Westminster, the citjj^ of London ex-
cepted. Actions for debt are tfied in this court
every Friday ; and there are the same judges as in
the Marshalsea- court, and a prothonotary, a se-
condary, and deputy prothonotary, four counsei-
loi^, and six attorneys. But, in this court, neither
plaintiff nor defendant must belong to his majesty's
household. The buildings of this prison are greatly
decayed, but the court-room is spacious and con-
venient.
Farther to the south is the old county gaol, near
which, at the south-east angle of the street, is situ-*
ated the parish church of St. George ; which is so
calletl from its dedication to the patron ssunt of
England.
This church is of some antiquity, as appears from
its having been given by Thomas Arderne to the
abbot and monks of Bermondsey, in the year 1 122.
In the year 1629, the old church was repaired and
beautified ; but the decays of age at length rendered
it necessary to take it down ; the parishioners there-
fore applied to parliament for power to erect a new
one, and, having obtained an act for that purpose,
the first stone of the present edifice was laid on St.
GeorgeVday, in the year 1734, l>y Dr. Hough, the
rector, as proxy for King George II. and the build-
ing was completed in 1736.
It is a very handsome structure, with a lofty and
noble spire. The ascent to the great door is by a
flight of steps, within a row of plain iron rails, that
extend along the whole front of the building. The
door-case, which is of the Ionic order, has a circu-
lar pediment, ornamented with the heads of chc-
3 rubs
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UQHDOif AHB ITS EMTIAMS. 171
rubs in clouds, and, above this pediment, the front
is adorned with balustrades and vases. From this
place rises a plain square tower, strengthened with
rustic quoins, as is the body of the buildins;; and
on the corners of the tower are -again placed vases.
Above this is an octangular tower, with arched
openings on the four principal faces, and a series of
Ionic columns at the corners supporting the base
of the spire which is also octangular, and crowned
at its apex, with a ball from which rises the
vane.
This church is a rectory which, as has been ob'
served before, was anciently belonging to the
priory of Berniondsey. It is at present in the gift
of the crown.
Bishop Bonner, of infamous memory, who died
in the mdrshalsea prison, was buried in the cemetery
belonging to this parish, under the east window of
the church.
Opposite to this church anciently stood a mag-
nificent mansion, belonging to Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk, the favourite of Henry VIIi:
After his death, in 1545, it came into the king's
hands, who established a royal mint here. At that
time it was called Southwark-place ; and was after*
Wards given by Queen Mary to the Archbishop of
York, as an inn or residence for him and his sue*
cessors, whenever they repaired to London. This
place continued for many years an asylum for frau*
dulent debtors, who took refuge here with their
efiects, and set their creditors at defiance; but be-
coming at length a pest to the neighbourhood, by
giving shelter to villains of every description^ the
attention of parliament was directed to it, and hi
the reign of George I. all its privileges were totally
suppressed. The name is still preserved in Mint*
street.
Neater
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172 HISMRY AHD 8fT«f EV OP
Nearer to London-bridge, on the same side of
St. Margaret's-liill is Union -street, on the south
side of which is Union- hall, one of the police of-
fices instituted a few years ago, for the better ad-
minfstration of the office of justice of the peace.
It is a plain brick building with a stuccoed
front, ornamented with pilasters of the Doric Or-
der,
The street from St, George's church, southward,
is called Black man -street ; at the south west corner
of which there is a.road, that runs through St*
GeorgeVfields to Westminster*bridge. At the
north east corner of this toad stands the KingV
Bench- Prison.
This is a place of confinement for debtors ; and
for those sentenced by the court of King's-bench
to suffer imprisonment for libels and other misde-
meanors; but those who can purchase the Itberticd
have the benefit of walking through a part of the
IJorough, and in St George's-fields,
This prison is situated in a fine air ; but all pros'*
pect of the fields, even from the uppermost win-
dows, IS excluded by the height of the walls with
which it is surrounded. It has a neat chapel for
the performance of divine worship, and only one
bed in each room; but these rooms are extremely
small ; they are all exactly alike, and none above
nine feet in length. It is a very extensive brick
building, without A\'hi<»h the marshal, who has the
keeping of this jail, has very handsome apartments*
Prisoners in any other jail may be removed hither
by Habeas Corpus.
Nearly opposite to this prison, in Hprsemonger-
lane, is the new jail for the county of Surry. It
w a massy brick building, surrounded with a strong
wall; and the place of execution is a temporary
scaflfold erected on the top of the lodge on the
north
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LOKBON AND ItS EKVlROirS. 173
north Side of it. The keeper*d^house is a handsome
buiMin^ on the west side.
In that part of St. George's-fields where the
roads from the three bridges meet, stands a plain
neat obelisk, on which is written the distances from'
thence to London-bridge, Fleet-street, and West*
minster-hstll
The road from this place to Black-friars- bridgo
is very spacious, and has many good buildings on
each side of it. On the west side, at a short dis-*
tance from the bridge> stands the parish church
calleil' Christ-church.
This parish was formerly a district belonging to
St Saviours-parish, and consists principally of the
old manor of Paris-garden, in which was situated
one of the ancient p^ay-houses of the metropolis,
and here were also exhibited the bear baitings so
much in request among our ancestors. Speaking
of the Bear-garden, Stow says *' herein were kept
bears, bulls, and other beasts to be bayted, as also
mastives in several kennels, nourished to bayt them.
These bears and other beasts are there kept in plots
of ground scaffolded about for the beholders to
stand safe." The safety of this scaffolding wa^,
however, very problematical, for, in the year \5b%
one of them suddenly fell, by which accideni
multitudes of people were killed, or miserably
maimed.
The church was founded in the year 1637, in
pursuance of the will of John Marshal, gent, of
the Borough of Southwark, who devised the sum
of seven hundred pounds, towardserectinga church,
and endowe<l it with sixty pounds per annum for th«
maintenance of a minister. With this sum, and
others collected by the trustees under the will, a
church was built, and the inhabitants of the dis*
trict applied to parliament in the year 1676, for an
act
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17* ^ HISTORY AKD SURVEY OP
act to make it a distinct parish from St Saviour *5,
which being granted, it has been ever since inde-
pendent, tliereof.
In the year 1737 the foundations of the old
church having become very ruinous, a new appli-
cation was made to parliament, and the present
edifice was erected at the expense of the parish-
ioners. It is a regular, well constructed building,
consisting of a plain body^ enlightened by two
ranges of windows, with a square tower, and a
turret.
This church is a rectory, the patronage of which
is at present in thirteen persons, the representatives
of the founder*
On the. same side of the road near the obelisk,
stands the Magdalen- house for the reception of
penitent prostitutes.
This benevolent institution was projected, in the
year 1758, by Mr. Robert Diugley. It was at
lirst kept in a large house, formerly the London
Infirmary, in Prescot-street, Goodman Vfields, and
was called the Magdalen Hospital. The utility of
this charity was so conspicuous, and so well sup->
ported, that the views of the benefactors extended
to the building an edifice more enlarged and con-
venient for the purpose; in consequence of which,
the spot on which the present edifice stands was
made choice of; and on the 28th of July, in the
year \7(i9, the Earl of Hertford, president, with
the vice-president and governors, laid the first
stone at the altar of the chapel, under which
was placed a brass plate xsith the following inscrip-
tion :
On the 98ih.of July,
In the year of our LORD
MDCCLXIX.
And
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LONDOK AND ITS ENTJRONS. 175
And in the ninth year of the reign of
his most($acr,ed Majesty,
GEORGE III.
King of Great Britain,
Patronized by his royal consort
QUEEN CHARLOTTE,
This HOSPITAL
For the reception of
Penitent Prostitutes,
Supported by voluntary contributions,
Was begun to be erected,
And the first STONE laid by
FRANCIS Earl of HERTFORD,
Knight of the most noble order of
the garter, lord chamberlain of
his majesty's houshold, and one
of his most hon. privy-council,
the PRESIDENT.
Joel Johnson, Architect
This hospital consists of four brick buildings,
which inclose a quadrangle, with a bason in the
center. The chapel is an octangular edifice erected
at pne of the back corners ; and to give the in-
closed court an uniFormity, a building of a similar
front is placed at the opposite corner.
The unhappy women for whose benefit this hos-
pital was erected, are received by petition, a printed
form of which may be obtained gratis on applica-
tion at the door, and there is a distinction in the
wards according to the education or behaviour of
the persons admitted. Each ward is entrusted to
its particular assistant, and the whole is under the
inspection of a matron. The treatment of the
women is accompanied with eveiy possible degree
of tenderness, that the establishiVient, instead of
a house of correction, or labour, may be thought
a safe
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1
a safe tetvt^ki from error, and its attendaM wretch «
edness. They are instructed and practised in the
duties of the christian religion, and each one is
employed in such kind of work as is suitable to her
abilities, or trained in the various branches of do-
mestic employment, in order to qualify her to ob-
tain an honest li-velihood by service.
When ayoung \ix>man is admitted into the house,
and has given satisfactory proofs of her inclination
to quit the paths of vice, great pains afc taken to
bring about a reconciliation between her and her
friends, and, if they are people of honest fame, to
put her under their protection ; but no woman who
behaves well in the house is ever dismissed from it,
except afe her own request, until she is provided
with the tneans of obtaining a reputable livelihood ;
and as a further eticouragement to a perseverance
in rectitude, every woma^i placed iu service from
this institution, who, at the end of a year, can
obtain a satisfactory testimonial of her good be-
hdiviour for that t?Fme, receives a gratuity from the
irommittee a9 a reward for the past, suid an 6ncou<-
ragement for her future good conduct.
' To enlarge on the utility of such an institution
must be needless. • It is obvious that there cannot
be greater objects of compassion than young,
thoughtless females, plunged into vice and ruin,
by temptations to which their youth and personal
advantages, no less thair those passions implanted
by nature for wise, good, and great ends, expose
them. But to no class is such a sanctuary mohe
beneficial than to those who, having been seduced
by promises of marriage, are deserted by their
seducerfr. These have never been in public pros-
titution, but abandoned by their relations in the
first moments of anger^ thrown upon an unfeeling
world>^ without money, without character, and
without
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LOKDON A^D ItS ENVIRONS. 177
Without a friend, the stern impulse of hunger
would compel them to embrace a life of guilt and
misery, or to seek a more dreadful alternative iu
suicide, did not this mansion offer them a secure
retreat from further temptation and a peaceful, vir-
tuous abode, until the resentment of their parents
became cooled by reflection, or they had acquired
the means of procuring a creditable maintenance
by honest industry. The seeds of virtue are not
suddenly destroyed, and, though paralyzed for a
time by delusion, would frequently revive, were an
assisting hand stretched forth. This truth was never
more strongly exemplified than in the annals of the
Magdalen Hospital. Of several thousands received
into it since its institution, very few have been
discharged for improper behaviour, or from dis-
like to the constraint, and upwards of two thirds
have been restored to society ; have become reputable
and industrious members of it, many of them vir-
tuous wives, and tender mothers, who, but for it,
might have been forced to linger out a miserable
existence, by preying on the unwary, and spread-
ing profligacy, ruin, disease and death, through
the human species.
Nearly behind this house, in the road leading to
Westminster- bridge, stands a kindred institution :
the Royal Cumberland Freemason's School.
This establishment was commenced in 1789, for
the support and education of female children and
orphans of Freemasons; at which time a house for
their reception was taken at Somer's-town. But
the liberal support which this charity experienced
from the fraternity, enabling the governors tOkj^x-
tend its benefits much beyond their original plai|»
the piece of ground on which the school now
stands was hired on lease from the city of liondon,
and the present commodious structure erected at
VOL. III. A A an
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178 HISfOEV AfiTD SURVEY OF-
tn ca^pe^se of upwards of two thousand five hundred
popDds, in the year 179S. It is a neat plain buiid*
ing with a rustic basement storyi which contains
the kitchens, offices, &c. The ascent to the prin-
cipal entrance is by a flight of steps from a small
garden. In tiie front are three elegant and appro*
priate statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity ; the
two former in niches on the two sides, and tlie
latter on the top of the structure. These wer^ a
present to the institution, in the year 1801, ftom
Messts. Van Spangen and Co.
CHAJ^.
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LONDOH AND ItS ^llYtlldirB. 179
CHAP. XXX.
Of the River Thames.'^Iis Rise and Qmrse.—'Niwigation^
'^CaTud^.'-'^ Ancient State.^-^ Embankment. "-^Present
State. — Its natural Advantages as a Harhour. -^Modern
improvements. — Wet Docks. — The Lord Mayor's Juris"
^ction^ — Its Fish* — Sir John Denham*s Description.-^^
London^lridge.''^^ Westminster'lridge.'^''BlackfriQTS^
bridge.
Having completed the survey of the twenty-six
wards, of which the city of London is composed,
it remains now to speak of the Thames, the princi-
pal source of its wealth ; and, though certainly not
the largest, yet, i« respect of its navigation and
produce, the chkf river in the world. The limits
of an island are a natural bar to that extent of
course, which is considered the boast of many con-
tinental rivers, but, in utility and commercial con-
venience, the Thames is second to none.*
This river takes its rise from a copious spring,
called Tliames-head, two miles south-west of Ciren-
cester, in Gloucestershire. It has been erroneously
said, that its name is Isis, till it arrives at Dor-
chester, fifteen miles below Oxford, when, being
joined by the Thame, or Tame, it assumes the name
of the Thames, which, it has been observed, is
formed from the combination of the Avords Thame
^nd Isis. The origin of this popular error cannot
now be traced ; poetical fiction has, however, per-
petuated and invested it with a kind of classical
sanctity. Camden says, " It plainly appears, that
the river was always called Thames or Terns, before
it came near the Thame; and in several ancient
3 charters
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iSo HISTORY AND ST711TEY OF
charters granted to the Abbey of Malmsbury, as
well as that of Enshani, and in the old deeds relat-
ing to Cricklade, it is never considered under any
other name than that of Thames.'* He likewise
says, that it no where occurs under the name of
Isis. All the historians who mention the incursions
of Ethelwold into Wiltshire, in the year 905, or
that of Canute, in 101 6, concur likewise in the
same opinion, by declaring that they passed the
Thames, at Cricklade, in Wiltshire. Neither is it
probable that Thames-head, an appellation by
which the source has been usually distinguished,
should give rise to a river of the name of Isis ;
which river, after having run half its course, should
re-assume the name of Thames, the appellation of
its present spring.
About a mile below the source of the river is the
first corn-mill, which is called Kemble Mill. Here
the river may properly be said to^ form a constant
current; which, though not more than nine feet
wide in the summer, yet in the winter becomes such
a torrent, as to overflow the meadows for many
miles around. But in summer Thames-head is so
dry as to appear nothing but a large dell, inter-
spersed with stones and weeds.
From Somerford the stream winds to Cricklade,
where it unites with many . other rivulets. Ap-
proaching Kemsford, it again enters its native
county, dividing it from Berkshire, at Ingleshem.
It widens considerably in its way to Lechlade ; and
being there joined by the Lech and Coin, at the
distance of one hundred and thirty-eight miles from
}!^ndou, it becomes navigable for vessels of ninety
tons.
At Ensham, in its course north*east to Oxford,
js the first stone bridge; a han<lsome one, of three
grebes, built by the Earl of Abingdon. Passing the
ruins
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LONDOK A»D ITS EXYIRONS. 181
ruins of Godstow nunnery, celebrated as the place
of interment of Fair Rosamond, the river reaches
Oxford, in whose academic groves its poetical name
of Isis has been so often invoked. Being there
joined by the Charwell, it proceeds south-east to
Abingdon, and thence to Dorchester, where it re-
ceives the Thame. Continuing its course south-
east, by Wallingford, to Heading, and forming
a boundary to the counties of Berks, Bucks, Surrey,
Middlesex, Essex, and Kent, it washes the towns
of Henley, Marlow, Maidenhead, Windsor, Eton^
Egham, Staines, Laleham, Chertsey, Weybridge,
Siiepperton, Walton, Sunbury, East and W>st Moul-
sey, Hampton, Thames Ditton, Kingston, Ted-
dington, Twickenham, Richmond, Isle worth, Brent-
ford, Mortlake, Barnes, Chiswick, Hammersmith,
Fulbam, Putney, Wandsworth, Battersea, Chelsea,
and Lambeth. Below these, on the north bank, are
Westminster and London; and on the opposite
side, Southwark, forming, together, one continued
city, extending to Limehouse and Deptford. From
hence the river proceeds by Greenwich, Blackwall,
Woolwich, Erith, Purfleet, GraysThurrock, North-
fleet, Gravesend, and Leigh, into the ocean ; and
in this couise, from Dorchester, receives the rivers
Kennet, Loddon, Wey, Coin, Mole, Brent, Wandle,
Lea, Roding, Daren t, and Med way.
Though the Thames is said to be navigable one
hundred and thirty-eight miles above the bridge^
yet there are so many shallows, that in summer,
when the springs are low, the navigation westward
would be entirely stopped, were it not for a number
of locks. But these are attended with a considera-
ble expense; for a barge from Lechhule to London
pays, for passing through them, thirteen pounds
fitteen shillings and six pence; and from Oxford to
London,
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198 MISTOKY AKV «UEVEY OF
London* twdve pounds eighteen shillings. This
charge, howevei-^ is in sumnier only, when the wa-
iter is Jow; »d there is no lock bet^veen London-
bridge and Bolter's Lock, a distance of fifty-one
mi 1^8 an<I a half.
The plan of new cuts has been adopted in some
places, to shorten and facilitate the navigation.
There is one near Lechlade, which runs nearly pa-
rallel to the old river, and contiguous to St. John's
Bridge; and there is another, a mile from Abing-
don, which has rendered the old stream, towards
Culbam-bridge, useless.
But however advantageous to the navigation of
the Thames these cuts may be, they yield infi-
nitely, in importance, to the communications made
lately between it, the Severn, the Trent, and the
Mersey.
A canal had b^^en made, in 1730, From the Se-
vern to Wall-bridge, near Stroud. A new canal now
ascends by Stroud, through the vale of Chalford,
to the height of three hundred and forty-three feet,
by me^ns of twenty-eight locks; and thence to the
entrance of the tunnel, near Sapperton, a distance
of nearly eight miles, the canal is forty-two feet in
width at the top, and thirty at the bottom. The
tunnel, which passes under Sapperton-hill, and that
part of Earl Bathurst's grounds, called Haley-wood,
a distance of two miles an^ tliree furlongs, is fifteen
feet in width, and navigable with barges of seventy
tons. Descending hence by fourteen locks, the
canal joins the Thames at L-ecblade, the level of
which is one hundred and thirty-four feet below
the tunnel, and the distance upwards of twenty
miles. The whole extent of this vast undertaking
is more than thirty miles, and the expense of it ex-
ceeded the sum of two hundred thousand pounds.
This canal was completed in 1789.
A similar
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 183
A similar comtnunicatioa with the northern and
eastern parts of the island has been effected by
means of the grand junction canal, extending from
the Thames at Brentford, to a canal which unites
the Trent and Mersey, with which it communicates
at Braunston ; and a branch from this canal has
been lately opened from BulFs- bridge to Padding-
ton.
To enumerate the many advantages which ne-
cessarily result from the^e artificial navigations be-
tween the metropolis and the ports of Bristol, Li-
verpool, Hull, &c. as well as the principal manufac-
turing towns in the inland parts of the kingdom,
would extend this digression from the immediate
subject in question too far: it will, therefore, be
sufficient to observe here, that as the promoting of
commerce is the principal intention in making ca-
nals, their frequency in a nation must bear a pro-
portion to the trade carried on in it.
It is worthy of observation, that the idea of a
junction between the principal rivers of England
had struck several of our p6ets long before it was
carried into effect. Pope mentions that of the
Thames and Severn, in one of his letters to Lord
Digby, dated in 17SS; and, in his poem of the
Fleece, Dyer says,
" Trent and Severn'g wave
By plains alone disparted, woo to join
Majestic Thames. With their silver urjis
The nimble footed Naiads of the springs
Await, upon the deW^ lawn, to spesd
And celebratis the noioiu"
With respect to the ancient state of the Thames,
it has been already observed (Vol. I. p. 7.) that
the Romans recovered the low lands abourt St.
GeorgeVfields, by drains and emlntnkoients : their
labours,
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18+ HISTORY AND SURVEY OP
labours, however, were not confined to that spot
only, but extended on one side or the other, ac-
cording to the nature of the soil, from Richmond
to the mouth of the river* Mr. Whitaker, whose
acquaintance with the ancient state of London is
inferior to none, is of opinion, that, when the Ro-
mans settled at London, the waters of the Thames
roamed over all the low ground from above Wands-
worth to "Woolwich, Dartford, Gravesend, and
Sheerness, on the south side, and from Poplar and
the Isle of Dogs, over the levels of Essex, to the
sea, on the north side. He says (Gentleman s Mag.
Aug. 1787), *'The spirit of Roman refinement
would naturally be attracted by the marshes imme-
diately under its eye, and would as naturally exert
itself to recover them from the waters. The low
grounds of St. George^s-fields, particularly, would
soon catch the eye, and sopn feel the hand, of the
improving Romans. And from those grounds, the
spirit of embankment would gradually go on along
both the sides of the river ; and, in nearly four
centuries of the Roman residence here, would erect
those thick and strong ramparts against the tide,
which are so very remarkable along the Essex side
of the river, and a breach in which, at Dagenham,
was with so much diflSculty, and at so great an ex-
pense, closed even in our own age.
** Such works are plainly the production of a re-
fined period. They are therefore the production
either of these later ages of refinement, or of
some period of equal refinement in antiquity. Yet
they have not been formed in any period to which
pur records reach. Their existence is antecedent to
all our records. They are the operation of a re-
moter age.. And then they can be ascribed only to
the Romans, who began an aera of refinement in
this island, that was terminated by the Saxons, and
that
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loSdok and its Ei^ynioKs. 185
that did not return till three or four centuries
aga
** But let me conjfirm my reasoning with a few
facts. It is well known, that a dispute was formerly
maintained between Dr. Gale and others, concern*
ing the real position of the Roman London, whe-
ther it was on the northern or on the southern side
of the river. The dispute was a very frivolous one,
London undoubtedly .was then, as it is now, upon
the northern ; but I mean to turn the dispute into
its right channel. And I can demonstrate, I thin^i
the embankment of the Thames to be a Work of the
Aomans, from some incidents that came out in the
course of it.
*' It can hardly be supposed," says an antagonist
of Dr. Gale's, who has considered the ground more
attentively than any other author^ " that the saga-
cious Romans would have made choice of so noi'»
some a place for a station, as St George's-fietds
must then have been. For, to me, it is evident,
that, at that time, those fields must have beeh
overflowed by every spring-tide. For, notwith-
standing the river's being at present confined by
artificial banks; I have frequently, at spring-tides,
jscen the small current of water, which issues from
the river Thames through a common^sewer, at th^
Falcon, not only fill all the neighbouring dutches,
but also, at the upper-end of Gravel-lane, overflow
its banks into St. George's-fields. And considering
that above a twelfth part of the water of the river
is denied passage, when the tide sets up the river,
by the piers aud starlings of London-bridge (it
flowing, at an ordinary spring-tide, upwaras of
nineteen inches higher on the east, than on the west
side of the said bridge): I think this is a plain indi*
cation, that, before the Thames was confined by
banks, St. GeorgeVfields thwi have been coMi-
voL. ui. B b derably
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J 86 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
deiiably under water, every bigli tide; and that
part of the said fields, called Lambeth-marsh, was
under water not an age ago. And, upon observa-
tion, it will still appear, that, before the exclusion
of the river, it must have beep overflowed by most
neap- tides." Alaitland'^ History of Londotiy p. 8,
** This gives us sufficient evidences, that, natu^r
rally and originally,- the large level, which we de-
ponunaleSt/George's-fieldSj was, previously to the
embankment of the Thames, all covered with the
^eadipg waters of the tide, at every spring.. Yet,
this very strand of the sea appears to have been ac-
tually -used, by the Rouians. The Romans had
houses upon it ; the Romans had buryingvgrounds
within iti . * In^JiVs Campis quos Saucti Georgii
pltbs voicat/ says Dil G>ale, for another purpose,
*,raulta Rpmanorum .numismata, opera tesselata,*
the tiue floors of. Rom^^n parlours, • lateres, et ru-
dera,^ubind^ rieprebensa sunt. . Ipse urnam niajus-
pulam, pssibys r^fertam, tjupeii redemi a fossoribus^
fjyi,: non proCfPl ab-.h^c Burgo/ Soutlnvark, * a4
AuMri)m, niutto^i alios simul eruerunt;' ^ntonini
ftin, p..65t
^' ^'iThis^rgumentfriay be pursued still further, car-
ried.oyijr the very site of Southward itself, and ex-*
tended, :up Jo J)epti;or4, and Blackhealh beyond^
All tbeK'^are.a part of the original marshes of the
Thames, Sputhwark even stands upon what is. pro-
perly a part of St. Gporge's-fjelds. -YctSouthwarc
ift^expre$sly mentiojjpd go e^arly as 1053, and began,
T4ndoubted[ly, rWith the bridge, which is noticed so
early as 10l§. . Artd,:as Dr. Woodward remarks, in
Opposition to Dr. Gale's discoveries in St. George a-
Ijelds^ ''There have been other like antiquities dis-
covered, from that place onwards, for sonie m\les
^a^tward, n^ar the.Lock, in the gardens along the
spwlfhsidgof Dep,tford-rpad) aUttle beyond Deptford,
.: .2 oix
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LOilDOlsr A!fD Its lENVIROItS. 187
on Blackheath, &c. — Thav6 now in my Custody the
hand of an ancient Terminus, with two faces. —
There were found along with it large flaf bricks, and
other antiquities, that were unquestionably Roman.
All these were retrieved about twenty years since, in
digging in Mr. Cole's gardens, by the (Deptford)
road mentioned above. I have seen, likewise, a sim-
pulum, that was digged up near New-cross, And
there were, several years ago, discovered two urns,
and five or six of those viols, that are usually called
Lachrymatories, a little beyond Deptford. Nay,
there hath been, very lately, a great number of urns>
and other things, discovered on Blackheath."
" These are decisive evidences, that tlie wonder-
ful work of embanking the river was projected and
executed by the Romans. It was the natural opera-
tion of that magnificent spirit, which intersected
the surface of the earth with so many raised ram-
parts for roads. The Romans first began it in St.
GeorgeVfields, probably. They then continued it
along the adjoining, and equally shallow, marshes
of the river. And they finally consummated it, I
apprehend, in constructing the grand sea-wall along
the deep fens of Essex.
'* To what I have thus said, I can add only one
thing more. There is, I remember, in. Wren's Pa-
rentalia, a passage upon this very subject, contain-
ing the opinion of Sir Christopher Wren respecting
it. There, Sir Christopher, if I remember right,
extends the overflow of the tide considerably more
into the land than I have done. But he attributes
the embankment, as I do, to the Romans; though
he has not appealed to that striking demonstration
of the opinion, the British state of St. GeorjgeV
fieids, &c. contrasted with the Roman condition of
them.'*
H
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188 VI8TOEV AND VCKTZY OV
It is not in the power of language to describe
the beauties which adorn the banks of this noble
river, between London and Windsor. The numerous
yillageSi and magnificent mansions of the nobility
and gentry, with the luxuriant prospect of the sur-
rounding country, impress the mind of a beholder
with a scene more easily conceived than expressed ;
and a stranger would be equally surprised tp see,
not only the prodigious number of barges and boats
continually in motion above London, but also the
amazing fleets that constantly lie below it, for an
extent of several miles.
It is to its situation on this river that London
is, in a great measure, indebted for its affluence, its
harbour being of such extent, that it can contain a
greater quantity of shipping than any other harbour
in Europe, while its distance from the sea is not
only a security against the attacks of an enemy,
but a shelter from the tempests, which more ex-
posed anchorages are liable to. It was with a iriew
to these advantages, and tfie consequent influx of
commerce and wealth, that, when, in one of h\»
capricious moods, James L threatened an alderman
of London with removing the seat of royalty, the
parliament, &c. from the capital, the citizen replied,
'* Your majesty will, at least, be graciously pleased
to leave us the river Thames."
If, with these natural advantages alone, the
Thames was of such importance to London, how
greatly must its value be increased by the modern
improvements in it The vast increase of trade in
the port of London, required additional conveni*
ences for loading and unloading vessels; and hence
the various extensive docks which have been lately
constructed on the north bank of the Thames were
undertaken.
Those
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xjokdok and its environs. 189
Those appropriated for the use of the West India
trade are wholly on the Isle of Dogs. The northern
one is for receiving loaded vessels inv^ards : it co-
vers an extent of thirty acres, and can accommodate
from two to three hundred ships, such as are used
in that trade, at one time. The southern one,
which is appropriated to loading vessels outwards,
occupies only a space of twenty-four acres. The
openings into these docks are at Blackwall and
l^imehouse, and there is an extensive range of
warehouses all round them, for storing West India
produce ; the whole of which must now be landed
here.
South from these docks, and in a line parallel to
them, is a canal across the Isle of Dogs, by which
ships are enabled to avoid a very circuitous pas-
sage round that peninsula, in their passage up and
down the river, on payment of a small sum, in
proportion to their bulk.
The London or Wapping Docks occupy a space
of ground, extending, in a line with RatclifFe-
highway, from Shadwell id Old Gravel-lane, and
communicating with the Thames, at the Hermitage,
Wapping Old Stairs, and* Shadwell. The largest
and westernmost dock is capable of receiving five
hundred ships, and between it and the Thames at
Wapping, is a smaller dock for holding small craft,
and a bason for the same purpose, communicating
with the river at the Hermitage. The easternmost
dock, which is not yet completed, is to be named
Shadwell Dock, and will also be provided with an
outer bason. These docks will also be surrounded
with warehouses.
The jurisdiction of the lord mayor and corpora-
tion ot London, over the Thames, extends from
Coln^ditch, above Staines-bridgc, in the west, to
Yeulet, or, as it is called in old deeds, Yen land
versus
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190 ttlStORY ANtt SURVEY d**
versus mare, in the east, and includes part of thtf
rivers Lea and Med way. And not only the watet
of the Thames, with the fish therein, belongs to
the city, but also the soil and ground of it, as ap-
pears from the following memorandum found among
the manuscripts of Burleigh, lord treasurer in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth. *^ Also, for proof of the
prince's interest in rivers flowing from the sea, the
Thames, and conservation thereof, was not only given
to the city of London, but, by their special suit, the
king gave therewithal the ground and soil under the
same : whereupon, if any that hath a house or land
adjoining, do make a strand, stairs, or such like,
they pay, forthwith, a rent to the city of London,
how high soever they be above the low-water
mark."
The lord mayor has a deputy, or substitute, called
the water-bailiff, whose office is to search for, and
punish such offenders as may be found infringing
the laws made for the preservation of the river. He
also holds four courts of conservancy yearly, in the
four counties of Middlesex, Essex, Surrey, and Kent,
and impannels a jury of each county, to make in-
quisition of all offence^ committed on the said
river, in order to proceed against those who may
be found offending.
These privileges of the city, on the river, have
been repeatedly confirmed, as well by letters pa-
tent and charters, as by acts of parliament, and de-
cisions of courts of justice.
The bed of this fine river is either gravelly or
clayey, according to the nature of che soil through
which it flows, and it produces, in different parts
of its course, every species of fish found in the
other rivers of Britain, except four, viz. the Bur-
bot, the Loach, the Spiny Loach, and the Samlet.
The account of the Thames cannot be better
-closed
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LONDOK AND ITS BKVIRONS. I9I
closed than with Sir John Denham's most admira^r
ble description of this river, which, for justness of
sentiment, and elegance of language, has nevei'
been excelled, ^>d possibly never equalled,
My eye descending from the hill, surveys
Where Thames among the wanton valjeys dtrays;
Thames, the most lov'd of all the Ocean's souS|
By his old sire, to his embraces runs.
Hasting to pay his tribute to the sea.
Like mortal life to meet eternity.
Tho' with those streams he no resemblance hold.
Whose foam is amber, and their gravel gold ;
His genuine and less guilty wealth t' explore.
Search not his bottom, but survey his shore }
O'er which he l^indly spreads his spacious wing.
And hatches plenty for th' ensuing spring.
Nor then destroys it with too fond a stay.
Like mothers which their infants overlay ;
Nor with a sudden and impetuous wave.
Like profuse kings, resumes the wealth he gaye*
IsTo unexpected inundations spoil
The mower's hopes, nor mock the plowman's toil :
But, godlike, his unwearied bounty flows ;
First loves to do» then loves the gcxxl he does.
Nor are his blessfugs to his banks confin'd,
But free and comnioi> as the sea or wind ;
When he to boast, or to disperse his stores
Fall .of the tributes of his grateful shores
Visits the world, and in his flying tow'rs
Brings home to us, and makes both Indies ours;
Finds wealth where 'tis, bestows it where it wants,
Cities in deserts, woods in cities plants.
80 that, to us, no thing, no place is strange,
While his fair bosom is the world's exchange*
O, could 1 flow like thee, and make thy stream
My great example, as it is my theme !
Tho' deep, yet clear, tho' gentle, yet not dull.
Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full :
Heaven her Eridanus no more shall boast,
Whose fame in thine, like lesser currents lost*
The communication between the opposite shore*
pf theXbam^Si at London, is maintained by means
of
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192 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
of three stone bridges, a description of which is
subjoined.
The oldest is London-bridge, which was origi-
nally built of wood, but at what period is not
known ; though it must have been prior to the
year 1016, when the passage of Canute's fleet up
the Thames, being obstructed by the bridge, he
caused a canal to be made round the south end of
it, for conveying his vessels further up the river;
and subsequent to 993, when Anlaf, the Dane,
sailed up the Thames as far as Staines, with ninety-
three ships, and ravaged the country on both
sides.
On this subject Stow, in his Survey of London,
quotes the authority of Bartholomew Linsted, alias
iowle, the last prior of St. Mary Overies church,
Southwarkj in the following words: ** A ferric be-
ing kept in the place where now the bridge is builded.
Bit length, the ferriman and his wife deceasing, left
the same ferric to their only daughter, a maiden,
named Marie, which, with the goods left by her
parents, as also with tlie profits arising of the said
ferrie, builded a house of sisters, in a place where
now standeth the east part of St. Mary Overies
church, above the queere, where she was buried;
unto the which house she gave the oversight and
profits of the fierrie: but afterwards, the said house
of sisters being converted iqto a college of priests,
the priests builded the bridge of timber, as all other
the great bridges of this land were, and, from time
to time, kept the same in good reparations; till, at
length, considering the great charges of repairing
the same, there was, by ayd of the citizens of Lon-
don, and others, a bridge builded with arches of
stone."
More modern writers, however, discredit this
account of the foundation of London^bridge, and
even
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tOlTDOK AKD Its SKYIRONS^ 193
tven affect 'ta doubt the existence of a religious
house in South wark, so early as the Conquest; but
a confirmation of this fact is to be found in an ex-
tract from Domesday-book, inserted in Bishop
Tanner's Notitia Ecclesiastica, which runs thus^
" Sudrie Terra Episc. Baiocencis. Ipse Episcopus
habet in Sudmerche unum Monasterium^ etc/*
whence it is clear, that a monastery did exist there
atthat'time.
This wooden bridge was, in a great measure, de*
stroyed by fire, in the year 1136, and, notwith^
standing the reparations then made, it was in so.
ruinous a condition, in the year 11 63, that it was
thought necessary to build a bridge of stone ; the
superin tendance of which was given to Peter, th«
curate or minister of St. Mary Golechurch, who
^as then a person of the highest reputation for his
skill in architecture.
The ancient wooden bridge abutted on Botolph's
vharf, but the new bridge of stone was orderedi to
be built a little farther to the westward ; and a tax
upon wool having been granted, towards defray*
ing the expense of this great undertaking, a vuU
gar error arose from that circumstance, that the
bridge was built upon woolpacks.
It appears from undoubted authority, that, either
through death, or the infirmities attendant on a
very advanced age, Peter, the curate of Golechurch^
^vas prevented from finishing the great work he had.
undertaken ; for, among the records in the Tower
of London, there is a letter, dated in the third year
of the reign of King John, in which that monarch
recommends to the mayor and citizens of London,
one Isenbert, as a proper person to complete the
said bridge.
Notwithstanding this royal recommendation of
Isenbert, it doesvnot appear that the citizens ac-
voi^ III, c c cepted
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194 mStMT AND fiJOftYEV 0V
cepteci bis services, in the vcboitdiDg'tlieir brie _
ibr none of our historiasis make memlaom, of baD
tb« architeel, and it i» well kiio\vn^ thai aftes
fWer of rolecbnpeh, the caw ol this^ wotk was
coa»tnkt««) to Serte Mercer, WiXian Afaaaine^
Benedict Botewrite, metchdnts of London,
%vho$e i«spectiou the fip9t stone bridge lias
fiettd m the yea^ ]a09*
While Peter of Colechurch had the svpcfintead*
ance of the work, he, ait hi» own expense, erected a
chapet on the ea»t side oC the ninth pier from tho^
north end, and endowed it lor two prie^ four
clerks, &e. This ehapel,. which wa& dedicated t»
St. TtKHnas, wa& a beautifut aixrhed Gothic afemcy
tore, sixty-five feet liong, twenty fiset and a lutf
broad, and fourteen* in heigl^ It was paved inth»
jMack and white^ marMe, and m the middle was a
sepulchral monnment^ under which it was sop*^
posed Peter of Coleclvuich was bariedi. Clusters of
sraall pilLirs arose at e^ual distances- on the sides,,
and beiMiing over the roof, met in the center of the
arch, where they were bound together by kcge
flowers eut in the saufie stone : between these pillnra
were the windows, which were arched^ and afSoided
a view of the Thames on each side. It had aa en-»
trance from the rivep, as well as from, the stiset,
fit)H> which last there wa^ a descent- by a fliglMs of
scone steps winding round a pillar. This venoraUe
edi^ce remained nearly in its original fbrm tttt the
total demolition of the houses on the bridge, above
fifty years ago, at which time it belonged ta tha
occupiers of ^a dwelling-house evecDed above it^ by
whom it had beeu converted into a warehouse.
In the, year 1280, this bridge hadi from varioua
accidents, become so ruinous, that £dwaixl K
granted a brief to the keeper of it to solicit the
assiistance of his subjects throughout the kingdom^
towards
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LOKDOS JkViD ITg ENVIftOKS. 196
towaidB r€]Niiriiig it; besides which, he caused let-
ten to be cifCHlated to the clergy of all degrees,
earnestly pccssing titem to contrilnite to so lauda-
hie ^ work ; biitthfis method of raisiug money not
pfuiriog sufficient to defray the expenses, his ma-
jesty, ia the year ibliowing. granted his letters pa-
leot for takii2g a toll^ to be applied to that pur-
pose.
While these affairs were iu agjtatioo, tire ruin of
tlie bridge waa completed, by five of the arches
being totally carried away by the ice and floods,
after a aevem frost and deep Siiow^ in the ^near
Thet€ afe no lartlier records of the state of this
bridge^ until the year I486, when a drawbridge,
which at first had a tower on tlie north side, and
was 80 omCrived as to permit the passage of siitps
loaded with fH^ovisions to Queen hitlie, as well as to
resist the attempts of an enerny^ was begun to be
built. But about ten years after, two of the arches
at the south end, together with the Bridge-gate,
fell down, and, the ruins being suffered to remain,
OM of the locksi or passages for the water, was al-
most rendered useless ; whence it received the name
of the liock-locki and it is frequently taken for a
natural rock*
From that ttmf, the buildings on the bridge in-
creased slowly; for, in 147.I9 when the Bastard
Fauoonbfidge besieged it, there were no more than
thirteen houses, besides the gate, and a few other
buildings erected upon it.
In Stow's time, however, both stde^ were built
up, and it had the appearance of a regular sU^^
there being only tliree openings, secured with stone
walls and iron rails, to afford a prospect up an<l
down the river. Tliese were over three of the widest
arches, usually called the navigable locks*
This
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196 BISTORT AND SURVEY OF
This was the state of the bridge till the year
1632 ; in which year, on the isth of February, a
dreadful fire broke out at a needle*inaker*s, near
St Magnus's church, which burnt down two and
forty houses on the bridge ; an accident, which
was, in a great degree, owing to a scarcity of wa^
ter, the Thames being almost frozen over at the
time.
The bridge remained in this ruinous condition
for several years, owing to the confusion of the
state, which interrupted the peace and government
of the city, and put a stop to all improvements ;
but at length, in the years 1645 and 1646^ several
houses, on the north side of the bridge, were
rebuilt with timber^ in a strong and handsome
manner.
The bridge had not entirely recovered from its
ruinous condition, when it again sufiered jn the
general conflagration of the city, in 1666; by
which all the buildings, except a few at the south
end, erected at the first building of the bridge,
were totally consumed, and the stone work received
$o much damage, that it cost fifteen hundred pounds
to repair it.
This was no sooner accomplished> than a suffi-
cient number of tenants ofiered to take building
leases tor sixty-one years, and ^ build in a pre-
scribed manner ; which proposal being agreed to,
the whole of the north end was covered with houses
four stories high, with a street twenty feet wide be-
tween, in less than five years ; after which, the old
buildings at the south epd were rebuilt in the same
manner. "
At length, the city became sensible of the incon-
venience of not having a footway, which had occa-
sioned the loss of many lives, from the number of
carriages continually passing; and the buildint;
leases
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lOKDON AND ITS ENVIROKS.^ 19^
leases being expired, a plan was projected for re-
building the street, with a colonnade on each side,
by which foot-passengers might pass in security,
and be also sheltered from the weather; and this
was partly carried into execution at the north-east
end.
In the year 1746, however, the lord mayor, al-
dermen, an.d common-council, considering the many
liTes that were lost through the narrowness of the
arche^ and the enormous size of the starlings;
which took up one fourth of the \rater-way, and
occasioned the fall, at low water, to be no less than
£ve feet, as well as the great expense of repairing
the bridge^ which for several years had amounted
to two uiousand pounds per annum, came ta a re«
solution to take down the houses entirely, and to
widen one or more of the arches.
Ap act of parliament for the above purposes be-
ing obtained, in the year 1756, orders were imme-
diately given for taking down the houses on both
sides of the bridge, and a temporary wooden bridge
was erected upon the western starlings, for the pas-
sage of carriages as well as persons on foot, till the
intended alterations were completed. This tempo-
rary bridge, as has beelt already mentioned, was
destroyed by fire, but the interruption to the com-
munication was not of long continuance, the da-
mage being repaired in less than three weeks. Ano-
ther act of parliament was shortly after passed, for
granting the city fifteen thousand pounds to-
wards carrying on the work, which was completed
in a short time, as it now appears; the two center
arches of the old bridge having been thrown into
one, for die convenience of vessels passing through.
The length of this bridge is nine hundred and
fifteen feet, and it is forty-five feet broad. On each
tide is a spacious foot pavement, adorned with
4 handsome
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I9B mSXiOLY AKI> SU&VKY Of
liandsofYie balustrade^ m'hich support a sirflioieiit
number of iaoips for enlighteuiog the bricfge by
night
By a survey of t\ie brklgCi made in tlie year 1 73Q^
it appeared, tltat tbc exterior part of tbe foumda-
tiOD, on which the stone piers are laid, consisted of
Jiuge piles of timber^ driven close together, on the
top or which were laid large planks, ten inches in
43iickne$% whereupon the bases of the stone pien
were laid, three feet below the starlings, and nine
fiset above the bed of the river.
It fikewise appeared, that the lowermost h^ers
of the original Btones were bedded in pitch, in*
•tead of mortar, which appears to have oeea done
with a view of preventing the water from damaging
the work, till it was advanced above the hig^- water
mark ; for the oHMlem niethod of building within
a caissoon, as hath bceq. successively practised at
llie erecting of the bridges at Westminster and
filackfriars, was then totally unknown.
A plan has been lately suggested for removing
London-bridge, and supplying its place with a cast-
iron bridge, of one arch only, with a view to the
an^rovement of the navigation upwards: many
well-informed persons, however, are of opinion,
.that the inconveniences which would arise from
permitting the water to have a more rapid course
downwards, would more than counterbalance all
its advantages.
At the north end of the bridge, under the first
.five arches, are fixed the water*works for supplying
the city with Thames^water. These were first pro-
jected by a Dutchman, named Morict^ in the year
1588: they were afterwards improved by Mr^ Sero-
cold, in the beginning of the last century, and,
since that time, by Mn Hadley, who rendered them
far superior to the celebrated water*engine atMarli.
The
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LOmOBT AKD TXS EKnwmsi 199
The wfaedsy wfaicii are placed under the arches^ are
mored by the atream or the tide, and fierce the wa*
ler into a resrnroft one kundpedand twenty fieetia
heigfit. The quantiQr dwy raise in die cousie of
a day, exceeds forty-six thousand hogsheads^ and
k is conveyed tbfongh the different parts of the
city by nieans of wooden pipes* There is a very
accurate description of the macUnery in Desaffu*
licr'a Mathematics. The Borough b supplied Witb
water by similar wodcsi at the south end of the
bridge.
Tb& next in seniority is Westmznster^bridge,
whichy thottgb notwithm the city (^ London, shalt
be described bese^ in order to keep the whole in
one chapter.
An act of parliament was passed ini the yeas 173^
fbc bnilding a bddgeacross the Thames^ fsomNew
Palace-yardy Westminster, to the opposite shore m
the county of Surrey. This act. was not obtained
without great opposition from, some of the inhabip^
t«its of the city of London and die Borough; omd
ako iVom the watermen of the Thames ;. but private
interest was obliged to give way to public advan-^
lage, and this great undertaking was carried intoi
effect, under the sanctioa of the legislature*
The ballast*men of the Trinity-liouse were em^
ployed t6^ open a large hole, for the foundation* of
the first pier, to the depth of live feet under tho
bed of the river ; and tins hein^ finished and level*"
led at the bottom it was kept clear by a proper in**
ciMne of strong piles. In. the mean time, a strong
case of oak, called a caissoon, was prepared, of the
fomv and dimensions of the intended pier in tb«
clear : this was made water-proof, and, Imug
brought over the place, was secured within the
piles.
In
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900 HISTORY AKD 6CRV£V Ot
In this wooden case the first stone' was laid oii
the 29th of January, I7S8-9, by the then Earl of
Pembroke. The caissoon was above the high vra*
ter mark, and, jinking gradaally by the weight of
the prodigious blocks of stone, the men could work
below the level of the water, as conveniently as oa
dry ground* Thus the middle pier was first formed,
as were all the rest in the same manner, and, when
finished, the sides of the caissoon being taken asun*
der, the stone work appeared entire.
The last stone of the bridge was laid on the 10th
of November, 1750, by Thomas Lediard, Esq. in
presence of several of the commissioners; and, on
the 17th of the same month, about twelve o'clock
at night, it was opened by a procession of several
gentlemen of the city of Westminster, the chief ar-
tificers of the work, and a great number of specta-
tors, preceded by trumpets, kettle-drums, &c.
Westminster Bridge is universally allowed to be
one of the finest in the world. .It was built by Mr.
Labelye, a Swiss architect, and consists of thirteen
semi-circular arches, besides a very small one at
^ each end. The ascent to it is very easy, and there
IS a semi-octangular recess over every pier, with
benches in them, for the accommodation of passen-
gers. Twelve of them are covered over head with
semi-domes, viz. the two middle and two extreme
ones on each side. These recesses are supported by
solid buttresses rising from the foundations, which
form the angular extremities of the piers below.
Over the central arch are pedestals in the balus-
trades,, intended for groups of ornamental figura,
which were never carried into execution. The di*
mensious of this noble structure are as follow :
The
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UMfPON AND ITS SHTIROifS. 101
Eect.
The whole length of the bridge - • ISfiS
Width of the center arch - - • 75
The rest decrease regularly four feet in width
on each side
The width of the two small arches^ at the
abutments, is each abbut * - SO
Width of tlie raised footways, on each side 7
Heighth of the balustrade within, six feet
nine inches*
At the sides of each abutment there are large
flights of steps down to the river, for the embark-
' ing and landing of goods and passengers.
The foundation of this bridge is laid/on a solid
and firm mass of gravel, which lies at the bottom of
the bed of the river, but at a much greater depth
on the Surrey than the Westminster side ; and this
inequality of the gfround required the heights of
• the several piers to be very different, as some have
their foundations laid at five feet, and others at four-
teen feet, under the bed of the riven The piers are
all four feet wider at their foundation than at the
top, and are founded on the bottoms of the before*
mentioned caissoons.
The materials of the piers are much superior to
those commonly used on such occasions ; the in*
side is generally filled up with chalk, small stonel)
or rubbish ; but here, all the piers are the same
within ns without, and consist of solid blocks of
Portland stone, many of which are four or five tons
weight, and none less than a ton, except the closers,
or smaller ones, intended for fastening the others,
one of which is placed between every four of the
larger ones. These blocks are perfectly well wrought
for uniting ; they are laid in Dutch terrace, and
fanned together with iron cramps run in with
vov^ III. V d lead
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203 HISTORY AKD SURVEY OP
lead. All the iron work is, however, entirely con-
cealed, and so situated as not to be in the least
affected by the water.
The soffit of every arch is turned and- built quite
through, the same as the fronts, with large Portland
blocks, over which is built, bounded in by the Port-
land, another arch of Purbeck stone, four or five
times thicker on the reins than over the key ; so
calculated, that, by the help of this secondary arch,
together with the incumbent load of materials, all
the parts of every arch are in equilibrio : thus each
arch can stand singly, without affecting or being
affected by any of the others. Between every two
arches there is also a drain, so contrived as to carry
off the water and filth, M'hich in time might pene-
trate, and accumulate, in those places, to the great
detriment of the building.
Though the greatest care was taken of laying
the foundation deep in the gravel, and using every
probable method to prevent the sinking of the
piers, yet all this was in some degree ineffectual;
for one of them sunk so considerably, when the
work was near completed, as to retard the finishing
it a considerable time. This gave the highest sa-
tisfaction to those who had opposed the work ; but
the commissioners immediately ordered the arch,
on the sjde where it had been sunk, to be taken
down, and then caused the base of the pier to be
loaded with an incredible weight of iron cannon,
till all tlie settlement tlmt could be forced was made.
After this the arch was rebuilt, and has ever since
been equally secure with the rest.
The time this bridge took building was eleven
years and nine months; a very short period, con*^
Bidering the greatness of the undertaking, the pro-
digious quantity of stone made use of, hewn out of
the quarry, and brought by sea, the interruptioes
of
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LOKDOl^' AND ITS £NTIROKS» fi03
of Winter, the damage frequently done by the ice
to the piles and sca^bldin^, and the unavoidable
interruptions occasioned twice a day by the tide,
which, for two years together, reduced the time of
labour to oniy iive hours a day.
The whole expense of erecting this bridge
amounted to three hundred and eighty-nine thou-
sand five hundred pounds; a part of which was
raised by different lotteries, and the rest granted
by parliament.
Between London and Westminster Bridges is
Blackfriars Bridge, built in pursuance of an act of
parliament passed in the beginning of the year 1756,
by which the lord mayor, aldermen, and common-
council were empowered to erect a bridge, and to
levy a toll on all carriages, horses, and foot-passen-
gers, cros^ng it, for defraying the expense.
A committee was shortly after appointed to re-
ceive plans and proposals for the undertaking, and
to superintend its execution, who, after examining
several designs, gave the preference to that pro-
duced by Mr. Mylne; and the first pile was driven
in the middle of the river, on the 7th of June,
1760.
The preparations for the commencement of the
building were carried on with such alacrity, that,
on the 3 J St of October following, the first stone
was laid, at the north end of the bridge, by the lord
mayor, in presence of the bridge committee, and a
considerable number of citizens. The ceremony
was performed by his lordship's striking the stone
with a mallet, the officers, at the same time, laying
on it the city sword and mace. Several gold, sil-
ver, and copper coins of the late king were deposited
under the stone ; as was also a large tin plate, on
whicli, by order of the court of common-council,
was
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$04 BtsYOftY Ain> Bvnytrt or
vas engraved a latin toscription ; of wbich the
following is a tran^tion :
On the last day of October, in the year IT^JO,-
and in the beginning of the most auspicious reign of
GEORGE the Third,
Sir Thomas Chittt, Knight, Lord Mayor,
laid the first stone of this Bridge,
Undertaken by the Common- Council oi* Loodoo
(In the height of an extensive war),
for the pnUic accommodation,
and ornament of the city;
Roi^ERT My lbi k being the Architect.
And that there may remain to posterity
a BMinument of this city"^ aflPection to the inaa,
who, by the strength of his geniua,
the steadiness of his mind, ^
and a kind of bappy contagion of his probity and
spirit
(under the Divine favour
and fortunate auspices of George the Second)^
recovered, augmented, and secured
The British Empire,
in Asia, Africa, and America,
And restored the ancient jeputatioii
and influence of his country
amongst the nations of Europe,
Tlie Citizensof London haveunanimously voted this
Bridge to be inscribed with the name of
WILLIAM PITT-
This bridge, which was completed in the year
1769, is a very convenient and majestic structure.
It is all of stone, and consists of nine arches,
which being elliptical, the apertures for navigation
are large, while the bridge itself, when viewed from
the
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LOKBOJi JkMO m EKTlROlCt. £65'
tkc mnUr^ zffeax^ rety low. The dimenamis €>f it
^re as follow :
Ft, In.
Length of the bridge from wh^rf to wharf 99^
Widtli of the central arch - - 100
Width of the arches on each side, reckon- 1 ^
1^
ing from the central oijc$ towaucd* the > ?-
shores . - - .J yj
Width of the carriage-way • « SS
Width of the raided foot- ways cm each side 7
Heighth of the balustrade on the inside «- 4 10
Over each pier of the bridge is a recess, or bal*
cony, supported below by two Ionic pillars, and
two pilasters, which stand on a semi-circular pro-
jection of the pier, above high-water mark. These
pillars give an agreeable lightness to the appearance
of the bridge on either side. The bridge spreads
open at the extremities, the footways rounding off
on each side, by which an agreeable and useful ac-
cess is formed on the approach of it At each end
are two flights of stone steps, defended by iron
rails^ for the conveniency of taking water.
The wooden frames on which the arches of this
bridge were turned, were very ingeniously contrived
for strength and lightness, allowing a free passage
for boats under them while standing. A curious
model of one of the arches of Blackfriars-bridge, in
mahogany, showing the construction of the wood
work Bnder it, with the foundations of the piers
below, is preserved in the British Museum.
Though the general construction of this bridge
merits great praise, it must be remarked, that the
inconvenient height of the balustrades prevents the
foot-passenger from having any prospect of the
river, either through or over them.
3 During
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S05 HISTORY AND SUEYEY OF
During the time employed in erecting this bridge,
a temporary wooden one was laid over the river,
for the accommodation of passengers, as well as for
the sake of the toll, by which a considerable sum
was raised while the work was carrying on, and a
great accumulation of debt prevented. This pru-
dent measure, with the care and attention of the
bridge committee, in the management of the reve-
nues arising from the toll, enabled them to pay the
whole expense of the building in less than twenty
years after it was finished, with a toll less than half
what they were allowed to take by act of parlia^
picnt.
CHAP. XXXI.
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LONDON AND ITS ENTIRONi. £07
CHAP. XXXI.
Of the civil Government of the City of London. — 3fa-
gistrates.^^^Officers, — Courts. — ^Ceremonies to be ob-
served hy the Lord Mayor y Aldermen^ and Sheriffs, on
particular Occasions*
No authentic documents are in existence to show
what was the nrture of the government of London,
during the time it was under the dominion of the
Romans and Saxons ; and as, when it was brouglit
under the Danish yoke, they made no otiier use of
it but as a place of security to fly to, in case of ne-
cessity, for shelter and defence ; tliere is, therefore,
no probability that a regular government existed
during that period. At length, in 886, Alfred hav-
ing dislodged these freebooters, rebuilt the city ia
a more magnificent manner than it had formerly
been, and committed the government of it to
Ethelred, Duke of Mercia, as was noticed in vol. I.
p. 22.
From this time to the reign of Edward the Confes-
sor, no mention is made of tlie names or functions
of the municipal officers, though it is evident that
London had a government and privileges peculiar
to itself, before the reign of the last-named king^
from some fragments of a charter granted by him,
and adchessed to the portgrave, whereby all the
ancient customs and usages were confirmed, and
others were added.
This title of Portgrave, or Portreve, in its more
confined sense, belonged to an officer appointed
by the king, whose duty it v/.cis lo collect the
public
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fiOS ttXStO&T A9D SmiTEV OF
public imposts of a commercial port; but from
this charter,^ and that of William the Conqueror
(vol. I, p. 43), the portreve of London appears
to have been also at the head of its civil govern-
ment.
After the Norman conquest, the appellatioa of
portreve gave way to that of mayor, which is a va-
riation of the word maire^ a derivative from the La-
tin majar^ wherewith the chief magistrate of Rouen,
the capital of the dukedom of Normandy, was dig-
nified.
In the year 1813, the citizens of London ob*
tained the privilege of choosing their own mayor,
but with this condition, that he should be presented
annually to the king, or, in his absence, to his jus-
tice, to be sworn into his office.
These, and the other elections for city officers,
were, at first, made tumultuously, by all the citi-
zens, without distinction ; but this giving rise to
great disturbances, the magistrates were afterwards
chosen by a select number, sometimes more, and
sometimes fiewer, out of each ward ; and thb select
number was called the commonalty. Tliis mode of
election by delegates continued from the reign of
Edward L or, perhaps^ earlier, to that of Edward
IV. in whose reign the elections were made by the
liverymen of the respective companies ; which nic«
thod has continued ever since, and is established by
act of parliament By virtue of this authority the
livery assemble annually, on Michaelmas day, at
Guildhall, for that purpose.
Soon after thei election, the new lord mayor, ac-
..companied by the recorder and several of the alder-
men, is presented to the lord chancellor, as his ma-
jesty's representative, for his approbation, without
which the person elected has no legal audiority to
execute
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triMsute Itte ofllice; but this being obtained, he is,
ott the 8tb of November, sirorti ,iTfto the office ot
mayor, at Oirildball, and, the next day, before tht
Barons of the Exchequer, at Westmroster.
On the morning of the 9th of November^ being
f!kt day on which the lord mayor elect enters tipoA
hh office, the akiermen and sheriiis repair to his
yetidence, from whence they attend him to Guifd"*
hdt, in a procession fotmed by coaches, which,
about noon, proceed to the Three-crane-stairsj
irhere the lord mayor, aldermen,- recorder, and
sheriffir, go on board the city barge, attended by
several corporations of the citizens, in their for-
malities, and stately barges, elegantly adorned with
a great nmnber and variety of thgs and pendants;
aitd thence proceed to Westminster, forming n
gratid and magnificent appearance;
The ceremony being over at Westminster, thtf
processioir returns by water to Blackfriars-bridge^
whence the livery of many of the city cfompamet,
preceded by colours and ikuds of miisic, march te
thefr stands, which are erected on the sides of th6
Btfcetn through which his lordship is to pass.
Whew the lord maytwr lands at Blackn'iars, he 19
J^cttved by the artillery company, a military body^
composed principally of young citieens, who take
fhcr teed of the procession, awdare- followed by thtf
eofffpttuy to which his lordship belongs i afler thestf
come some others^ of the city companies, among
irhem-, that of the Armourers- frequently attends^
pfececled by a person on horseback, dressed in po-
Ifehed armour. Next march the lord mayor*s offi*
ecrs^antfservantSj foHowed by his lordship in the
city state-coach; and afler him come the aldermen^
Reorder, sheriffs, chamberlain, common-sefjeant,
lowir*clerk, etc in their several carriages and
splendid equipages ; and in this manner they pro-*
i^L. jix« £ e cee<l
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SIO HISTOaY AMD SIJAY«Y OW
ceed to Guildhall, where an ele^nt entertainment
is provided. The procession being over, the seve*
ral companies repair to their respective halls, where
they are sumptuously entertained.
On ^1 public occasions the lord mayor is clothed^
according to the season, either in scarlet or purple
robes, richly furred, with a velvet hood, and golden
chain, or collar of S. S. with a rich jewel appendant.
When he goes abroad in his state cdach, the mace*
bearer sits upon a stool, in the middle, facing one
of the windows, and the sword-bearer upon another
stool, opposite tl^ other ; and when on foot, his
train is supported by a page, and the mace and
sword are carried before him.
The principal officers belonging to the lord
mayor, for the support of his dignity, are, the
sword-bearer, the common hunt, common crier,
and water-bailiff, who have all great salaries or per-
quisites, with each the title of Esquire. He has
also tlu-ee serjeant carvers, three Serjeants of the
chamber, a seneant of the channel, two yeomen of
the chamber, tour yeomen of the water-side, a yeo*
man of the channel, an under water-bailiff, six
young men waiters, three meal-weighers, two yeo-
men of the wood-wharf, an officer called a foreisn
taker, and the city marshals. There are, besides
these, seven gentleaiens' men; as, the sword-bearer's
man, the common hunt's two men, the common
crier's man, and the carver's three mtn.
Nine of the foregoing officers have liveries of
the lord mayor, viz. the sword-bearer and his maii^
the three carvers, and the four yeomen of the water-*
side. All the rest have liveries from the chamber
of London.
Although the office of lord mayor is elective, it
may be said to be, in some measure, perpetua^l;
for his power does not cettse on the death of the
king
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. fill
king. When this circumstance happens, the lord
mayor is the principal officer in the kingdom^
and takes his place accordingly in the privy-coun-
cil, until the new king is proclaimed ; in proof of
which, when James I. was invited to come and take
possession of the throne of England, Robert Lee,
the then lord mayor, signed the invitation before
all the great officers of state and the nobility. His
power is very considerable ; for he is not only the
king*s representative in the civil government of
the city, but also first commissioner of the lieu-
tenancy, perpetual coroner, and escheator, within
the city and liberties of London, and the Borough
of South wark, chief justice of Oyer and Terminer
and gaol delivery of Newgate, judge of the court
of wardmote at the election of an alderman, conser-
vator of the rivers Thames and Medway, perpetual
commissioner in all affairs relating to the river Lea,
and chief butler of the kingdom at all coronations.
He also sits every morning at the mansion-house,
to determine any differences that may happen
Among the citizens, and to do the other business in-
<;ident to his office of chief magistrate.
Tlic person of the lord mayor is inviolable, and
it is a high crime to assault or resist him. Thus,
in the year 1339, in the mayoralty of Andrew Au-
brey, he, with some of his servants, being assaulted
in a popular tumult, headed by two persons of the
names of Haunsart and Brewere, these two ring-
leaders were apprehended and tried for that offence,
at Guildhall, and, being convicted, were imme-
diately beheaded in Cheapside.
The title of dignity. Alderman, is of Saxon ori-
ginal, and of the greatest honour, answering to
that of earl ; though now it is no where to be found
but in chartered societies. And from hence we
may account for the reason why the aldermen and
commonalty
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CommopaUy of London were c^Utxl l^rofis afiejr
tl)e conquest. These magietratefi are frd|)ierly tfaui^
subordi/iate governors of their respective wartto^
lioder the lord mayor^s jurisdiction ; aivd they or»^
ginally held their aldermanries either jby inheritance
or purchase ; at which tini^> the ald^manries, or
wards, changed their names as often as their gp^
pernors or aldermen. The oppressions, to which
the clt&ens were subject from such a govemmea^
put them upon means to abolish tlve perpetuity of
that office ; and they brought it to an annual elec«
tion. Out that ibanner of election being attended
with many inconveaiences, andj beconiin|^ a conti*
pual bone of contention amongst thjs citizens^ tlM
. parliament, in tl>e year 13^, enacted^ Tbat the al«
dermen of London should continAie in tb^k Sfeyei^
offices during life, or good behaviour ; .a«4 so iistiU
continues, though the manner of eloet^ing im MveiF
Tal times varied. At present it is rcigui^ted by an
^ct of parliament, passed in the year 17«i5, m4 U>f
pei^son so ekcCed is to be returned by tbfi lord
mayor (or other returning o^er in his stead, iM^
qualified to bold a court of wardmote) to the court
of lord mayor and aldermen, by %vhom 4be peT^a
so returned must be admitted and sw4Nm ivtft
the o^ce of alderman, before he can act^ If ilne
person chosen refuses to 5er>ve tte tiffice qf f^l^
derman, he is subject to a i\m <^^^t h^ifidfed
pounds.
Tbese high officers conatitute a second |Art nf the
city legislature, wbcn ajssembled i<i a coiTiOjrate iciu»
pacity, and exercise an execytii^ power in theix
l«spective w^rds. ^U the ajdermeaa keep their
wardmote for choosing Mard ofiicers, and ^ettimg
the business of the ward, fov redressing grievanc^^
Ac. In. the management of these affairs, every aL»
i^iman has his deputy, who is by Vun appointed
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MlN0O)i AKD its WyiftQW. fil3
09t tff 'tlie coixiiiioii'*ooimcU of 1ms ward; aiid» in
iame of tbe wwds that are very large, the aldermaa
baa two depqtiea. The aldenoea who have passed
the dtftir ar^e juatiees of the quorum, and all the
other alderaien are justices of the peace.
Tlie office ^ jsheriff, or governor of the shire, or
county, is an office of great antiquity, tniat, oui
. attthority. The lord mayor and citizens of London
faavie the aheri0alty of London and Middlesex, in
fee, by charter; nnd the two sheriffis are by them
anmally elected. If one of tbe sherifis dies, the
other cannot act till a new one is chosen; for there
must be two sheriffs for London, whidi is a dty
and a coimty, tbougfa they make but one aheriff
lor the county of Middlesex. Anycitiisen m^ be
chosen alderman be£»ne he lias served the office of
sheriff; but he must discharge that pffice before he
can be lovi mayor. The aherifls are chosen on MM*
summfiT'day, and enter into the office on MichaeU
mas*day. It a person chosen sheriff refuses to serve,
be pays a fine of four hundred pounds to the. city,
and thirteen pounds sixteen shillings and eigiit*
pence to tlie ministers of tl)e city prisons, unless lie
sinears himself not worth fifteen thousand pounds;
and if he serves, he is obliged to give bond to tbe
corporation. Their business, in general, is, to col*
lect'tbe public revenues within their jurisdictions;
to ^tber into the exchequer all fines beloi^jng ia
the crown ; to serve the king's writs of process; to
attend the judges, and execute their ordefs; toinu
pannel juiies, and to take care that all condecnned
eriniNiais be duly punished and executed^ In par*
ticuJar, they are to discharge tiie orders of 4be court
of ^t^nnnoiucounci], when they have resolved to
petition {Mirltament, or to address his majesty. They
naTcaiko a power to make arrests, and serveexecu^
tJQna on the dwr Thanesr
The
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$1* HISTORY AND SUHYXY Of
The election of city officers, in common-hall^
as has been already mentioned, was regulated by an
act of parliament passed in tlie year 1725, in con-*
formity with which it is now. the custom for the
new lord mayor, attended by the aldermen and
fiherifis, to appear on the hustings ; when a procia*
nation being made by the common crier, for the
liverymen to draw near and give attention, accord-
ing to their summons, and for all others to depart
the hall, on pain of imprisonment, the recorder, or
conimon-serjeant, declares to the livery the purport
of their meeting ; after which the lord mayor and
aldermen retire, leaving the intermediate proceed*
ings of election to the sheriffs only. The coitimon*
Serjeant then proposing the candidates, the sherifis
form a judgment in whose favour the ms^rity of
iiands appear. If a poll is demanded, it is taken b^
clerks under their appointment: if a scrutiny is
demanded, it is referred to their judgment; and,
after all, it is they who make a declaration of the
majority to the lord mayor and aldermen. This
being done, his lordship returns to the hustin^,
attended as before, and, by- the mouth of the re«
corder, or common-serjeant, declares the election
to the common-hall ; after which, by his lordship's
order, the court is dissolved.
To this rule, however, there is an exception, in
sleeting representatives to sit in parliament, as they
do not come under the denomination' of city ofH*
cers* These are chosen by a common-hall of the
liverymen of London, by virtue of a writ directed
to the sheriffs. In this case, the sherifl^ only are
concerned, who have exclusive power to convene
the voters, to preside at the. poll, to adjourn from
time to time, and to make the final declaratioii.
In the election of a lord mayor, all the aldei;men
under ih« chair^ who have served the office of
sheriff.
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LOII0O1I AND ITS BKTIBOm* 215
sherifF, are proposed in rotation, two of which are
to be returned by the connmon-kall to the court of
aldermen ; and the majority of that court determine
on which of the two the election is fallen. It has
lieen. the usual custom of the liverymen to nomi*
nate the t\iro senior aldermen under the chair; and
the court of aldermen upon the like example, have
usually elected the senior of those two into the of-
fice. Each of them, however, have a right to dcr
viate from this usual method; and, in c&ses where
a particular dislike is taken to any of the aldermen,
especially when the city is divided into parties, oa
pcMitical disputes, the order of rotation is seldom
regarded.
in like manner, upon the election of sherifTs, all
the aldermen who have not served that office, are
first put up in their or^er of seniority ; notwith*
standing which, the livery have the privilege of
choosing whom they think proper, either out of
that court, or of those persons, who, having been
drank to by a lord mayor, as proper to be chosen
to that office, are also put in nomination on Mid"*
summer-day.
After the sheriffs are elected, on Midsummer-
day, the livery chuse the chamberlain of the city,
and other officers, such as the bridge-masters, the
auditors of the city and bridge-house accounts, and
the aleconners.
The chamberlain is an officer of great trust, and,
though elective annually, is never displaced, unless
for some great crime. . He is the city treasurer; he
receives all the money belonging to the corporation,
for which he annually accounts to the proper audi?
tors; and in his custody are all the bonds and se-
curities taken bv the city, and the counterparts of
thecity leases ; for which reason he gives greataecu*
rity.for the fidelity of his conduct
The
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Sid ]»«rofiy Mtr» mmmf ««
Tiie ftcovdefy mAhj m a cowMellor ejpcileaweil
Id the la% is ckesen hy the levd^mayor aud alder«
neB for their instroctloii and assistance in matters
(^ justice and prcycee^ngs according txy law ; aed
eontinu^ in his office dufing life. He takes place
in alt courts, and in that of the common^cauncil*
before any one that hath not been ntayor. He is
one of the justices of O^ awtTermiiicr, anda jos^
tice of peace, for putting the laws in execution: to
preserve the peace and governtnenft of iSie city. Hfe
speaks in the name of the city upon all eittraordi(«
fidry occasions ; reads and presents their addresses
cathe king; and when seated upon the bench, deK»*
vers the sentence of the court. He is the first officer
iw order of preoedenee who is paid a salary, which
originally was no more than ten poundsf per annumy
with someperqnisites, but it hss' beenitonr titnt to
time augmented^ to one thousand pounds* per atinnm^
Besides these officers of trust beitonging tsiy tl^e
oorpomtioif, there arc the fo^llowrng, 1^12?. The
eommon-seijeant, the town-clerk, and the city
refnembrancer : aU of whoih are appoiftted by the
court of common council
The common^serjeant is to attend the lorrf mayor
and court of aldermen on court days^ and to* bera
council with them, on aH occasions; within or
wi«hou« the precincts or liberties of the city. He
is to take care of orpliaus' estates, either by taking
attcount of them, or to sign their indentures, be^
fore tlieir passing tlie lord-mayor and court of
aldermen, , H« is likewise to let, sell, and maurage
the orphans* estates, according to bis judgment, to
their best advantage.
The town-clerk, or common-cleric, is an* officer
who keeps the original charters of the city, the
bcPoks, rolb, and other records, wherein are regis-
tered the acts and ptoceerfings* of the city; so
that
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uatboii idiB j». EK^tdQifB* jilt
tlml he may not be imptoperly styled thexsity re«
gister. He attends the lord-mayor Snd aldermen
at thcin courts, in order to take down any extraor^
dmary proceeding that majf occur. The town
..K and common seijeant take place according
to seniority.
The city remembrancer is to attend the lord-
mayor on certain days, and to put his lordship in
mind of the select days when he is to go abroad Mritb
the aldermen* He invites the great officers of
state on lord-mayor's day, and is also to attend
daily at the parliament house, during the sessions^
and to i^ort to the lord^mayor such proceedings
of the house as may a^ifect the city of London.
The fotti^following (^cers, viz. the sword-bearer,
eommon^hunt, common-crier, and water<*bailiff, be
long to the lord-mayor's houshold, and are esquires
by virtue of their places. The two first purchase
their'Oifice^, and tlte other two are in the appoint-
cnent of the common^counciL
Tbe sword bearer is to attend the lord-mayor,
af>d carry the sword before him on all public occa-
sions. The carrying of the sword before the )ord-
mayorbeing an lionour, be is entitled to as the re-
presentative of his majesty, Gerard Leigh, in his
Accidence of Armourtf, folio 94, says " That th^e
bearer must carry it upright, the hilt being holdeli
under his bulk, and the blade directly up the midst
of his breast, and so forth between the sword-
bearer's brows. This in distinction from bearing
the 8\rord in any town for a duke, or an earl, or a
baron. If for a duke, the blade thereof must
lean from the head, between the neck and the right
isho.ulder, nearer to the neck than the shoulder.
And for an earl, tlie bearer must carry the same be-
twe€;n the point of the shoulder and the elbow ; and
VOL. III. F f so
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tl8 .Hitxo&ir Avo snvrrr ot
ao there is another diftrent bearag of the swoict
for a baran.'^
The commoii bunt» whose business was fonneiiy
to take care of the hounds belonging to the city,
and to attend the lord-mayor and ckizens in hunt-
ing on those grounds which they were authorized
by different charters to flu, b now chiefly occupied
'in attendance upon the lady mayoress, and acts as
master of ibe ceremonies at public balls, &c*
The common crier is to summon all executors
and administrators of freemen to appear, and to
• bring in inventories of the personal estates of free-
men, within two months after the decease; and he
is to have notice of their appraisements. Ue la
likewise to attend the lord-mayor on set days» and
at the courts held by the mayor, aldermen, and
common-council ; and he carries the mace on pub-
lic occasions.
The water bailiff is to look after the preservation
of the river Thames against all encroachments,
and to prevent the fishermen from destroying the
young fry by unlawful nets. For that end there
are juries for each county, that hath any part of it
lying Oft the sides or shores of the said river : which
juries, summoned by the water bailiff at certain
times, make enquiry of all offences relating to
the river and the fish, and make their presentments
accordingly. Ue is also bound to attend the lord-
mayor on set days in the week.
There have been various o{Mnions respecting the
share which the commonalty of London anciently
possessed in the government of it That the
government by aldermen is of Saxon origin, is
almost demonstrable by the charter of Henry I,
(vol. I. p 60) which was granted to the city only
tbirty-five yeai> after tbt conquest, whereby aU
strangers
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LOKDON AKP ITS EKyiR0V9. 919
Strangers ^re Gommaiicled to *' give custom to Bone
but to him to whom the soke appertains/' i. e. the
alderman, '^ or to-fais officer/' But il is equally
evident from the same charter that tlie government
was not vested in the aldermen exclusive of the
commons, for the citizens are empowered to chuse
their own sheriff and justice; wherefore it cannot
be doubted that they coiistituted a part of the city
legislature.
In the absence of Richard L in Palestine, John,
£arl of Moreton, his brother, attended by the
Archbishop of Rpuen, and moat of the nohility
and bishops, repaired to St Pauri Church Yard,
where, being met by the tblkinote ef Loodoa, they
unanimously agreed to degrade the Bishop qf Ely,
Chancellor, and one of me regents, for ail tyran-^
nical government, (vol 1. p 7^.)
Many other instances, as well as those eked Above,
will be found in the former oart of the work, to
pr^ve that the great body or the citizens were al-
ways considered an integral part of tl^ government
9f the city: but when by the great iocrease of the
cidseus, chese folk motes were found to lie attended
with great inconveniences from the numbers who
frequented them, they were discontinued, and the
citizenschose from among tlien\selves acertain num-
ber out of each ward as their rq)re;»entatives ; who
being added to the lord mayor and aldermen, con-
stituted the courts denonuivited the common-
counciL
At first tlie Bumber returned for each M^ard was
only two{ but these being thought by the citizens
insufllicient to represent their numerous body, it
was agreed in the year 1347t that each ward
should chuse a number of common-council-nieop
proportionate to its extent, but none to exceed
twelve, or be less thafi six; which has been since
increased
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S20 UlStOltY A^» SmrVEY OF
increased to the present numbcrof two hundrecf
anci thirty-six.
The common-council are choseti after the same
manner as the aldermen, only with this dificretice,
that, as the lord mayor presides in: the wardmote,
and is judge of the poll at the elcdtien of an
alderman, so the alderman of each ward is judge
of the poll at the election of a common-coun-
cil-man, No act can be performed in the name
of ihe city of Loiidon, without their concur*
rence; but they cannot 'assemble Without a sum-
mons from the lord n^ayor, wfabse duty it is,
nt*vertheles», 'to cali a conimon^council, ^^Hen*
ever it shall be demoded, ion e^ctraordinary oc-
ca&ibn^. •» • • ' '
- . Thei-edre varfous cour't^ held in the city of* Lou-
don, for the due admini^tratipn 'of justice aihoog
the citizens} the most an cieivt of Which is''the«c&fi7Y
pf kftstrngs^h beiftg pf Saxon otigint-Ae^^,' ih the
Saxon 'language, 'liignitying a house, and dking^ a
plea; or cailsef ; whence the tbrni hasting limplies a
h'AUse of pleas. "• This'i^* a court of record, arnl'tlie
iupreine judicitfare ofthecity of London. Ct is
held weekly, on Tuesdays,, an d'wafrorigmaHgr esta-
blished for the preservation of the laws, franchises^
and customs of the city. The judges are; the lord
Inayorand sherrffs, who are assisted by thenscorrier
upon all causes of'c5nsequenc6. In ibiacourt, all
lands,' tenements, rents, and services, within the
city of London, are pleadable, in two hustings ; the
one called busting of a plea of land, and the Other,
hunting of common pleas; which are held dis-
tinctly ; for one week, pleas merely real are lield,
and the next, mixed actions are decided : here deed^
itr^ Snrolled, recovcrres' past, a»d writs of right^
Waste, partition, dow^r, and replevins arc dcter-
miTied.
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LOmKm AND ITS ErflBOKS* JlSI
The Lord Mayor's Court is a court of record, held
before the lord mayor, aldennen, and recorder,
every Tuesday, in Ouiidhall, wherein actions of
debt, trespass, attachments, covenants, &c. arising
within the city and liberties, of atiy value, may be
tried, and actions from the sherins'-court may be
removed hither, before the jury be sworn.
This is also a court of chancery, or equity, re«
specting affairs transacted in the city and liberties;
and gives relief when judgment is obtained in the
aheriffs'-court for more than a just debt. This
court has an ofiice peculiar to itself, consisting of
four atcornies, by whom all actions cognizable
therein are entered, for the execution whereof there
are six seijeants at mace, who daily attend in the
aaid office. It is the most extensive court in the
kingdom ; for, whatever is cognizable in any of
the several courts of England, can be brought be«
fore this, if the cause arises within the city of Lon-
don* The juries for trying causes in this and the
sheriiTs^courts, arc -chosen annually in their re-
spective wards, and serve monthly in the following
rotation.
Months. Wards.
January, Aldgate, Portsoken, and Cornhill,
February, Cheap- ward.
March, Bassishaw and Crippl^te.
April, Vintry and Bread-street.
May, Tower and Billingsgate.
June, Farringdon Without^
July, Bridge-ward.
August, Aldersgate, Coleman-street, and Broad-
street
{September, Farringdon Within^ and Castle-Bay-
nard.
October,
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S32 MI5TOST AND SURVEY Of
October, Queenliithe, Dowgate, and Waiibrook.
November, Laiigbourn, and Lime-street
December, Candlewick, Cordwainer, and Bishops*
gate.
The Court of Jjord Mayor and Aldermen is acourt
of record, wherein is lodged a great part of the
executive power. All leases, and other instruments
that pass the city seal, are executed^ the assize of
bread is ascertained, contests relating to water-
courses, lights, and party-walls, are adjusted, and
the city officers suspended and punished according
to the notoriety of their several offences, in this
court. It has also the power of appointing many
of the city officers, such as the recorder, the justice
of the bridge-yard, the steward of South wark, the
clerks to the lord mayor and the sitting aldermen,
the keepers of the different prisons, and some
others of inferior note : and no person can be ad-
mitted to the free<lom of the city by purchase^ or
without serving a regular apprenticeship, unless by
an order obtained from this court.
Tke Court of Common-council consists of the lortl
mayor, aldermen, and representatives of the several
wards, who assemble in Guildhall as often as the
lord. mayor, by his summons, thinks proper to con-
vene them ; and their general business is to make*
laws for the due government of the rity. Out of
this body are chosen the various committees for
inahaging all the concerns of the corporation ; but
it is a standing order of the court, that no commoner
be eligible to serve on more than four committees.
Tiiis court has the appointment of the common-ser-
jeant, the town-cleik, the judges of the sheriffs'
courts, the comptroller, the remembrancer, the
solicitor^ the common-crier, the bailiff of South-
wark»
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tOKDON AMD ITS ENVIRONS. 223
vark» the comptroller of the bridge*house, the water-
bailiff, and most of the subordinate officers.
TheSheriffy Courts arc courts ofrecofcl, held at
Guildhall, every Wednesday and Friday, for actions
entered at Giltspur street Compter; and on Thurs-
days and Saturdays, for those entered at the Poultry
Compter ; of which the sheriffs being judges, each
has his assistant or deputy, who are called the judges
of those courts; before whom are tried actions of
debt, trespass, covenant, &c. To each of these
courts likewise belong a secondary, a clerk of the
papers, a prothonotary, and four clerks sitters.
There are also sixteen serjeants at mace, for each of
the prisons belonging to these courts.
The Courts of IVardmote are the reliques of the
Saxon folknu>te, from which they only differ in
being composed of the inhabitants of a single
ward. - They are summoned by the lord mayor, -
and are held before the alderman of the ward, or
bis deputy, to correct disorders, remove annoY*
ances, and to promote the common interest, of the
ward : but when the business of tlie court is the
eifction of an alderman, the lord mayor pre*
sides. In this city, parishes being as towns, and
wards as hundreds, this court resembles that of the
leet in the county : for, as the latter derives its au-
thority from the county court, so does the former
from that of the lord mayor ; as is manifest by the
atrouai precept issued by the lord mayor to the se-
veral aldermen, for holding their respective ward-
motes on St Thomas's- day, for the election of pro*
per officers in each ward.
The Court of Conservancy is held four times a year
before the lord* mayor, at such places and times as
he shall appoint, within the respective counties of
Middlesex, Essex, Kent, and Surrey ; in which se-
veral counties he has a power of summoning juries,
who.
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«94 mstoftr AJiD stRVfcir ot
who, for the better preservation of the fishery of
the river Thames, and regulation of the fkhermen
that fish therein^ are, upon oath, to make inquisi-
tion of all ofiTences committed in and upon the said
river, from Staines-bridge, in the west, to Yenfleet,
in the east.
Court of Requests^ or Court of Conscience. This
court determines all disputes between citizens, where
the debt is under five pounds. It is V)f gr6at use to
pei-sons who have small debts owing to tfaem, which
they could not otherwise recover without entering
into expensive proceedings; and it is also of great
benefit to such persons as are not able to pay their
debts at once, as the court' can order the payment
to be made in such portions as are suitable to the
debtor's circumstances. The lord mayorand convt
of aldermen appoint, monthly, such aldermen and
commons to sit as commissioners in this* cotfrt, as
they think fit ; any three of Whom compose a court,
kept in Guildhall-chapel, every Wediaescjay and
Saturday, from eleven till two o^clofck, to h^r and
determine such cases as are brought' before them.
The Chamberlain' s Court \s held daily, btfore the
chamberlain, to determine differences bet\wen mas-
ters and apprentices, to enroll and turnover the
latter, and to admit all who are duly qualified to
the freedom of the city.
'TheCourt of Orphans is held, occasionally, befoFC
"the lord mayor and aldermen, who are guardians to
the children of all freemen, under theageof tM^nty-
one years, at the decease of their fathers. The
common -Serjeant of the <iity is authorised by the
the court of aldermen to take accounts and inven-
tories of freemen's estates ; and the youngest attor-
ney of the mayorVcouTt, being clerk to that of the
'orphans, is appointed .to- take securities for their
several portions, in the name of the chamberlain of
a London,
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LomnoB AXD Its MMiiMoM* ii5
LondoQ) who, for this purpose, is a sole corporatioa
of himself, for the service of the said orphans. A
recogniiaoce, or bond, therefore, made to htm upon
the account of an orphan, shall, by the custom of
London, descend to his successor.
It is here to be observed, that a freeman's widov
may require a third part of his personal estate, after
all incumbrances are discharged ; his children are-
entitled to another third part thereof; and he may
dispose oi the remaining third part by his will. If
he leaves no children, his widow may require a
moiety of his personal estate. If a citizen dies with«
out a will, aclministration shall be granted to his
wife, who may claim one^third part, by the custom
of London ; one^third part must be divided among
the children; and the remaining third part between
the wife and children: in this case, the widow is
generally allowed two-thirds of this last third part.
It is likewise to be observed, that, when a free^
tnandies, and leaves property to his children, either
in money or estates, the executor or executors make
application to the court of aldermen, to admit such
property into the orphans' fund. On this applica-
tion a wheel is brought into the court, containing
t number of tickets, which mention the respective
sums belonging to those %vho have arrived at full
^g^i or whose stock has lieen sold and transferred
to some other person. The lord mayor then dra^vs
from the wheel as many tickets as contain the sum
requested to be admitted by the new claimant, when
the proprietors of the old stock have notice given
them to receive their property in three months.
Four per cent is allowed for the money during the
time it continues in the fund.
Jmtice4uUl'C0uri^ in the 01d*bailey, is held eight
times in a year, by the king's commission of Oyer
&nd Terminal ibr trying offenders for crimes com«
voju III. ^ S mitted
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filStDRY AKD SU&VET OF
mitted within the city of London and coutlty of
Middlesex. The judges of this court are, the lord
mayor, the aldermen past the chair, and the recorder;
ti^I)o, on ^U such occasions, are attended by both
the sheriffs, and, generally, by one or more of the
national judges. The offenders, for crimes com-
mitted in the city, are tried by a jury of citizens;
and those committed in the county by a Middle-
sex jury. The crimes tried in this court are, high
and petty treason, murder, felony, forgery, petty
larceny, burglary, &c. the penalties incurred by
tvhich, are, the loss of life, corporal punishment,
raising of ballast in the river Thames, transportation,
amerciaments, &c.
The Coroner's'^cout't is held before the lord mayor,
who is perpetual coroner of the city, or his deputy,
to enquire into the cause of the death of any person
supposed to have come to an untimely end ; and
likewise into the escape of the murderer. It is
also the duty of the coroner to makcf inquisitio&
respecting treasure-trove, deodands, and wrecks al
sea.
TbeCourt ofEscheatorh also held before the lord
mayor, he being perpetual escheator within tl>ecity,
or his deputy ; to him all original writs of Diem
clansit ^vtremum. Mandamus Dcoencnunt^ Melius
inquiren^' &c. are directed to find an office for the
king, after the death of his tenant, who held by
knight's service. The escheator may also find an
office for treason, felony, &c.
To these courts may be added that called the
PiC'-pcfwder' courts a court of record incident to
every fair, which is held in London before the
lord mayor and the steward, during Bartholomew-
fair, to administer lustice between buyers and sel-
lers, and for the redress of such disordei*s as may
arise there, in breach of the followiug^roclamation,
which
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LONIMW AND ITS ENVIRONS. SftT:
ivhich is annually made before the lord mayor, on
the eve of St. Bartholomew, for the better regular*
tion of the said hir.
" The right honourable >, lord mayor of
the city of London, and his right worshipful bre-
threa^ the aldermen of the said city, straightly
eharge and command, on the behalf of our sove-
reign lord the king, that all manner of persons, of
whatsoever estate, degree, or condition they be,
having recourse to this fair, keep the peace of our.
sovereign lord the king.
^* That no person or persons make any congre-*
gation, conventicles, or affmys, by the which the
same peace may be broken or disturbed, upon paia
of imj>risoninent, and fine, to be made after the di-
rection of the lord mayor and aldermen.
" Also, that all manner of sellers of. wine, ale, or.
beer, sell by measures ensealed, as by gallon, pottle,
quart, and pint, upon pain that wilt tall thereof^
** And that no person shall sell any bread, except
it keep the assize ; and that it be good and whole-
some for man's body, upon pain^ that will follow,
thereof
" And that no manner of cook, pie-baker, nor
huckster, sell, or put to sale any manner of victual,*
except it be good and wholesome for man's body^
upon pain that will fall thereof.
" And that no manner of person buy, nor seH^
but with true weights and measures, sealed accord-
ing to the statute in that behalf made, upon psLi%
that will fall thereof.
'' And that no person or persons take upon him
or them, within this fair, to make any manner of
arrest, attachment, summons, or execution ; except
it be done by the officers of this city, thereunto as-
^igned^ upon pain that wjU befal thereof.
"And
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8M BfSTOKT AND SUEYEY OP
*' And that no person or persons whatsoever,
within the limits or bounds of this fair, presume to
break the lx>rd'8-day, in selling^ showing, or offer-
ing to sale, or in buying, or offering to buy, any
commodities whatsoever; or in sitting, tippling, or
drinking, in any tavern, inn, ale-honse, tippling-
house, or cook*s-house, or in doing any other thing
that may tend to the breach. thereof, upoi^ the pains
and penalties contained in several acts of parlia-
menf, which will be severely inflicted upon tlie
breakers thereof.
^^And, finally, that what persons soever find
themselves grieved, injured, or wronged, by ahy
manner of person, in this fair, that they come with
their plaints before the stewards, in this fair, as-
signed to bear and determine pleaa; and they will
minister to all parties justice, according to the laws
of the land, and customs of this city/*
The C&urt ofHallmote is a court which is held
Cccasionally, by each of the city companies^ in their
respective halls, or places of meeting, for the tran&-
;Scttons of tlie private affairs of their corporations.
The Court of the Tower of London is a court of
record, held by prescription, within the verge of
the city, on Great Tower-hill, by a steward ap-
pointed by the constable of the Tower; by whom
are tried actions of debt, for any sum, damagCg and
trespass.
It has been customary, for many centuries,- for the
magistrates of the city of London to appear in robes
on all public occasions; but, anciently, the colour
and ibrm of these seem to have been varied at plea-
aure. In the year 1568, however, a small tract was
published by John Day, containing the customs for
meeting on particular days, and for wearing the
babits; which being still observed, it is inserted
4 here
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UOmOV AND ITS EVTIEONS* SSg
bere m ft necessary addition to the histoiy of the
civil government of the city of London.
Up&n Midsummer^y^ for the Election of the
Sheriffk of Lonion^ 8^c. My lord mayor and ttie
aldericen, with the sheriflTs, meet at the Guildhall,
at eight of the clock in the morning, apparalled
m their violet gowns lined, and their cloaks of
scarlet Imed, without their horses.
And when they have been together in the coun**
cii-chamber a certain time, concerning the nomi-
nation of certain persons to be elected, my lord
and the aldermen come out, and put on their
cloaks in the orphans'-court, and then go down in
order to the hustings^court ; and there being set,
Mr. Recorder standeth up and maketh his obei«
saucer first to my lord, aud then unto the com*
mons, and declareth unto them wherefore they are
assembled together, showing unto them that it is
for the election of one of the sherifis of London
and the sheriff of Middlesex lor the year next en-
suing, and the confirmation of the other sheriff no*
minated by my lord mayor, according to his pre*
rogattve, and also for Mr. Chamberlain and other
officers. Of late years, however, the election is for
both sheriffs.
But my lord and the aldermen go up to my
lord's court, and there remain until the sheriff l>e
named and chosen, the door shut to them.
Then Mr. Sheriffs, Mr. Chamberlain, Mr. Com<^
iMn-Serjeant, Mr Town-Clerl^ and the counseU
brs of the city, and other officers, remain still in
the hastings*court to take and receive the name of
htm that shall seem by their judgments freely and
with one consent to be nominated and elected, and
jostlv tried out, not only by voice, but also by
bsod^ to be sheriff for they^ar following.
Then
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930 HISTORY AJTD SthtVEY DT ♦
Then the commons go to the election of Mr.
Chamberlain, the two bridgemastcrs, the auditors
of the city and bridgehouse accounts, and the
surveyors of beer and ale, according to the accus-.
tomed manner.
That done, the sheriffs, master chamberlain^
master common-serjeant, master tovn-clerk, the
counsellors of the city, the two secondaries^ and
the wardens of the head companies, master com-
mon crier going before them with his nriace, carry
up the report to my lord and the aldermen of their
said election.
Whieh report received, my lord and the alder*
men come down again to the hustings-court, and
there bein^ set in order iand placed, master re-
corder standeth up as he did before, and maketh
rehearsal of the names of those whom they have
nominated and chosen, asking them whether.it be
their free election, yea or no? And they gran^
Yea, yea. Then master recorder giveth them
thanks, and so they arise and depart home.
On St Bartholomew Even, for iht Fcnr in Smith-^
^eld. The ahlermcn meet my lord and the she-
riffs, at the Guildhall chapel at two of the clock
after dinner, in their violet gowns lined, and their
horses, without cloaks, and there hear evening
prayer ; which being done, they take their horses,
and ride to Newgate, and so forth of the gate, en-
tering into the Cloth Fair, and there make a pro-
clamation. , The proclamation being made, they
ride through the Cloth Fair, and so return back
again through the church-yard of Great SL Bar-
tholomew to Aid ersgate, and so ride home again to
the lord mayor's house.
On Sl Bartholometv Day for TFrestUng. So
UKiny aldermen as do dine witfe my lord maypr
and
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wd the sherifTs be apparelled in their scarkt
gowns lined, and after dinner their horaes be
brought to them where they dine ; and those al*
dermen which dine with the sheriff^ ride with
them to my lord's house, to accompany him to the
wrestling. Tlien when the wrestling is done, they
take their horses and ride back again through the
fair, and so in at Aldersgate, and so home again
to the said lord mayor's house. .
The next day, if it be not Sunday, for the
sbopting, as upon Bartholomew«<iay ; but if it be
Sunday, the Monday following. . .
For our Lady-day in Southwark.* My lord
mayor and the sheriffs ride to St. Magnus church
in their scarlet gowns lined, without their cloaks,
after dinner at two of the clock,^ and there the
aldermen meet my lord, and after the evening
prayer they ride through the fair till they come to
St Greorge's-church, and farther to Newington-
bridge, or to St. Thomas of Waterings, to the
stones that point out the liberties of the city (if it
be so their pleasures) and they return back again
unto the bridgehouse, and have a banquet there,
and then over the bridge, and there the aldermen
take their leave of my lord, and depart the next
way every one to his house. And after all is done^
and my lord brought home, my lord mayor's officers
have a supper made them by the bridge-masters.
For the Swearing of the Sheriffs upORMichaelmaS"
eoen. What day soever it falleth, so many of the
aldermen as be bidden to^dinner to either of the
sheriffs, come thither to breakfaist, or else to drink,
at eight of the clock in the morning, in their vio-
let gowns furred, with their violet cloaks furred,
brought with them, without horses. And if the
sheriff be an alderman, then they must put oh
* Embroidered cap, pearl, sword, collar o£ SS without hood.
their
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£58 filROET AK0 SU»TXY Of
tbeir cloaks and the sheriff likewise bis cloak, and
0<f go to the Guildhall between two of the giejr
cloaks : and if the sherifT be no alderman, then to
come between two of the aldermen without cloaks,
and the sheriff in his livery gown and his bood.
And aftet; when he is sworn, then to put on his
violet &3ynk and cloak, and his chain thereon; and
the aldermen must bring him home to his pUce^
with their cloaks, to dinner, and ao after dinner
take their pleasure.
Upon MkhaUmas-day^ for the Election tf n^
Lord Mayor. All the aldermen meet my lord and'
the sheriffs at eight of the clock in the morning
at Guildhall, in their scarlet gowns and their
cloaks furred, and their horses : and after thejr
have been a certain time together in the council-
chamber, they come forth into the orphaas'-court
and put on their cloaks, and so go in order to
the chapel, there hearing service and sermon, and
my h>rd with certain aldermen receive the com**
munion.
And then after the communion ended, and thejr
have offered, return again into the council-cham*
ber, and pausing awhile, return to the place where
the hustmgs is kept, and being set in order,
snaster recorder ariseth up and maketh his obet-^
sance first to my lord, an4 after to the commons^
and declareth unto them, That they of old cus*
torn know,^ that the cause of their assembly and
meeting together is for the election of the lord
mayor for the year ending *y declaring unto them
divers grants from the king's progenitors for this
their election from time to time. That done, my
lord and the aldermen go up into my lord's cour^
and there tarry (the door being shut to them) till
the election be brought to them. Then standeth
up master common-serjeant, (the sheriffs standing
on
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tOl^DOi^ AI^D Its ENVlftOKS. 233
on either side of him, and by the sheriffs, master
chamberlain, master town-clerk, the two seconda-
ries, and the counsellors of the city) in the said
hustings-court before the commons ; and he the
said common serieant maketh a short rehearsal of
that Mr. Recorder had spoken to them before,
saying. There resteth no more for him to say, but
to put them in remembrance in what order and
sort they should use themselves in their election ;
that is, How they must nominate and choose
two, of the which two my lord and the aldermen
must confirm one. Which two being nominated,
elected and chosen, Mr. Common-Serjeant, the
sheriffs, with the rest before-named, and certain of
the head wardens of the chief companies, go up to
my lord and the aldermen, and there present the
names of those two which the commons have no-
minated in their election.
Then the lord mayor and the aldermen proceed
by scrutiny to elect one of these two persons which
the said commons had before nominated. Then
Cometh down my lord again to the hustings-court,
and he whom they have chosen on his left hand,
and so my lord and the aldermen sit down again
in order; but he who is chosen sitteth next unto
my lord on his left hand. Then standeth Mr. Re-
corder up, and readeth unto them the names of the
persons whom they have nominated and chosen,
of which my lord and the aldermen have admitted
one, whose name is N. asking them, whether it
be their free election, yea or no ? And the com-
mons answer, Yea, yea. Then the sword-bearer
taketh off his tippet, and hath it for his labour,
and putteth on his chain, and the mayor new
elected standeth upon the hustings-court, and
giveth thanks, &c. That being done, the old
mayor doth likewise give them thanks, &c. Then
VOL. III. H h they
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S34 UlSTORV ASD SXT&TEV OiF
they arise up and put off their cloaks aiid my
Iprd mayor hath the lord elect ridiug with him»
to the eldest sherifF^s to dinuer
For the presenting of my iMrd elect ^ to the Lord
Chancellor (or Lord Keeper.) Then after dinner
my lord elect goeth to ray lord-chancellor (or lord
keeper) if he be at home at his place« or near unto
it, with five or six of the aldermen and master re-
corder with him, in their violet gowns, either by
foot or by water, as the dwelling-place of the chan*
cellor (or lord keeper) requireth. The commou
hunt, with the extraordinary officers, and those
that be at liberty, attend on him.
The morrow yter MkhadmcU'day for the Sheriffs
going to Westminster. All the aldermen must be
at the two sheriffs houses in the morning at eight
of the clock, in their violet gowns furred, and
theip horses, without cloaks : but my lord, master
recorder, and the two sheriffs must be in their scar*
let gowns furred, and their cloaks borne to WeA*
minster with them, and so ride to the Guildhall^
and from thence totheVinetree, and tber« taking
barge, land at Westminster- bridge, and in the hall
put on their doaksif and so go up to the exche*
quer ; and there the two new sheriffs be presented,
and the old sworn to their account.
Then they put off their cloaks, and take barge,,
landing again at the Vinetree, and there take horse,
and my lord mayor rideth to the eldest sheriff's
to dinner, Mr. Recorder and the sheriffs riding next
my lord, the two sheriffs carrying two white rodsiq
their hands, and their bench-men going after them.
The order for Simon wdJade's-day. The old
mayor shall have so many of the aldermen as
dine with him, come to his . place at eight of
the clock in the morning, in their violet gowna
furred/ with their violet cloaks furred, and
horses^
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LOlTDOIf ANf> ITS ENYIRONft. 295
hones, anil the sheriffs lo fetch him to the hall,
and there tarry in the council-chamber until the
new mayor comcth, and the rest of the aldermen
come, with the company of either of the lords be-,
Ibre them : and after they have been together a
certain space, come forth into the orphans'-court,
and put on their furred cloaks, and go to the hus-
tings-court; and there being set in order, the
common crier maketh procfamation, commanding
every man to keep silence.
Then Mr. Town clerk giteth him his oath; and
when he hath taken his oath, the old lord ariseth
and givcth the new lord his place, the old lord
taking the new lord's place; and then Mr. Cham-
berlain delivereth first to him the sceptre/ next the
keys of the common seal, lastly, the seal of the
office of the mayoralty ; after Mr. Sirord-bcarer
giveth him the sword. Then they arise and put
off their cloaks, and the old lord rideth home with
the new lord to his place, and there leaveth him,
and as many of the aldermen as dine with him.
And the old lord, with the rest of the aldermen,
ride to his place, the sword borne before him ; and
so after dinner the aldermen depart home at their
pleasure.
On the morrow after Shnon and Jude^s-day, for
my lord's going to take his oath at fVestminsier.^
All the aldermen and the sheriflfb come to my new
lord at ^ght of the clock, in their scarlet gowns
furred, and their cloaks borne with them, and their
horses, and so ride to the Guildhall, and the bache-
lors and the livery of my lord's company before him.
:(• But the old lord rJdeth from his own place to
the hall alone, having no officers to wait upon hirii
* A vdvet hood, cap of maintenance.
t A velvet hood for both mayors
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ft36i HISTORY AND SURVEY OV
but the common hunt, as a gentletnan-usher,
going, and those officers that be at liberty, and the
common hunt his man, (with his own men follow-*
ing him) and so tarrieth at the hall.
And after they be come all together, they take
their horses and ride to the Vinetree, and there
take barge to Westminster-bridge.
And after they be landed, the lord-mayor and
the aldermen put on their cloaks within the pa-
lace, and go round about the hall, making cour-
tesy in the hall, and so go up to the exehequer to
be sworn. Then after the oath taken in the ex*
chequer, they come down, and go fii-st to the
King's bench, then to the Common-pleas, and so
put off their cloaks, and go about the king's
tombs in Westminster-abbey, and then take barge
again, aod being landed, he rideth to the Guild-
hall to dinner, and all the companies of the city
with him ; and at their coming into the hall, the
new lord mayor, with two of the ancient alder-
men, Mr* Recorder, and the sheriffs, go up to my
lord*s table to bid them welcome, and likewise all
the other guests there, and from thence to the lady
mayoress' table, and so come out to the gentle-
womens* table, and to the judges : and so from
thence my said new lord mayor goeth into the
chamberlain's office, wh/ere he dineth : and the old
lord mayor, at their first coming into the hall, go-
eth up to the high table in the hustings, and there
keepeth the state for that feast ; and after the hall
is almost served of the second, then the new lord
mayor goeth, with master recorder, and those
aldermen that dine with him, to bid the old lord
^^id all thegu^ts in the h^U welcome. Then after
dinner goeth to St Paul's, with all the companies
waiting before my lord.
Fcr
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LeNBON AMB ITS ENTIRONS. 837
Forgoing to St. PauVs on All Samfs-day, Christ-
fnas-d^ttf^Tweifth-datf^andCandlemas-daT/.* All tlie
aldermen and the sheriffs come to my lord's place
in their scarlet gowns furred, and their cloaks and
liorses, and from.thence ride to the Guildhall, my
lord's company apd the bachelors before him, and
there hear evening prayer ; and when prayer is
done, they ride to St. Paul's, and there both the
new lord mayor and the old put on their cloaks,
and go up to the quire, and there hear the sermon ;
which done, they go about the church, and there
put off their cloaks where they were put on. Then
they take their horses again, and the aldermen
bring my lord home; and then they have spice-
bread and hippocras, and so take their leave of my
lord.
Upon St^ Thomais-day. t The lord mayor and
every alderman is to sit in his ward, in his violet
gown and cloak, furred.
For the Christmas- holidays.^ For Christmas-
holidays, until Twelfth-day, if my lord and the
aldermen go abroad to any public meeting, they
are to wear scarlet; but on the working-days.
Within the twelve days, if my lord go to the Guild-
hall, markets, or streets, they wear black.
Upon Innocents- day. ^ The aldermen dine at my
lord's, II and the sheriffs in scarlet ; but the ladies
wear black.
For Monday after Twelfth-day. My lord and the
aldermen meet at the 6uildhall, at eight of the
clock in the morning, in their scarlet gowns, furred,
and their cloaks furred, without horses, to receive
* A Tclvet hood for both. All Saint8*-day is the last day that the old
lord rides with the new cap of maintrnancr.
f If it be not Sunday.
} No cloak. € No state.
11 The lord mayors of Londoii had no fixed place of residence till the
year 1753, when the Mansion-house was finished for that purpose.
1 of
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dS8 nmnmr Avn sctstby m*
of thefr wapds their indentures ef thewai4motehx«
quest, and for the swearisg of the constaUes snd
scavenger*
ForUoodFridajf.^ My loni and the alderm^o
meet at St Panrs^rofis, at one of the clock, to hear
the sermon, in their pewk gowns, and without their
chains and tippets^
Far Monday and TueBday m East€i^<tH^k.f All
the aldermen and sheriii^ come utito my lord's place
before eight of tliecloek, to breakfast, in their scar-
let gowns, furred, and their cloaks and horaes^ and,
after breakfast, take their horses and ride to tlie
Spital, and there put on their cloaks, and so sit
down in order to hear the sermon ; which done,
they ride homeward, in order, till they come to the
pump within Bishopsgate, and there so many of the
aldermen as do dine with the sheriffs, take their
leave of my lord, and the rest go home with him.
For tVednesday in Easter-wiek. Like as before,
in the other two days, save that my lord and the
the aldermen must be in their violet gowns, and
suitable cloaks; but the ladies in black.
For Law Sunday. AH the aldermen meet my
lord and the sheriffs, at St. PaulVschool, in their
scarlet gowns, furred, without their cloaks or horses,
to hear the sermon.
For Whitsunday. All the aldermen meet my lord
and the sheriffs, at the new church-yard, in their
scarlet gowns, lined, without cloaks, to hear the
sermon ; which being ended, they depart.
Far Monday and Tuesday in Whitsun-week. All
the aldermen must meet my lord mayor j; and the
sheriffs, at St PauKs, in their scarlet gowns^ without
cloaks, to hear the sermon*
* Black swoid.
f A hood for my lord, cap orinaintexuace.
t If his pleasure be to go.
For
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tOVDOM AHD Its SKViaOMS* 439
for the Lord Mayor's tmighthood. All the aMer-
men meet my Jord, either at the Tliree Cranes, if
the king be at VVe&tmiuster, or at St. Mary-hill, if
the king be at Green wicli, by seven of the clock in
the, morning, in their scarlet go^ins, and cloaks
borne with them ; and, after morning prayer, they
take a barge to the kiu^'s places where tliey attend
til] that ceremony foe ended, and so go home with
my lord mayor to dinner.
For going to Si. Paulas tht first Sunday of every
term- All the aldermen meet my lord and the she-
rifTs at St. PauPs, in their scarlet gowns, furred or
lined, without cloaks or horse, as the time of thii
year requireth, when the term begin net h.
For election of kniglus and burgesses of tkePar^
Hatnent. All the alaeriuen meet my lord and the
sheriffs, at Guildhall, at nine of the clock, in their
violet gowns, and their cloaks furred or lined, as
the time of the year when tliey shall be chosen
requireth^ and sit in tlie husUngs-court while the
commons choose them. The order is, That they
must choose Master Recorder for one of their
knightSj and one gray cloak for the other, and two
commoners for the burgesses; which done,. tliey
depart.
Far the Lords of the Council coming daum for Sub'
sidies. For the lords and commissioners coming
down to assess the subsidies, my lord mayor and
the aldermen wear their black gowns, as at other
times; and the commissioners are to be warned by
Master Sheriff's officers.
For the election of Master Chamberlain, and
Bridge-mastersj if any of them depart within the year.
My loid and the aldermen sit in the hustings-court
while they be chosen, in their violet gowns, with*
out their cloaks, and do not remove until the elec-
tion be done.
For
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240 HISTORV AND SURVEY OF
Por the coronation of a king* All the aldermen
meet my lord and the sheriflfe at the Three Cranes,
or the Vinetree, at the hour of their summons, in
their scarlet gowns, and cloaks home with them,
lined, or furi^, according to the time of the year,
where, taking barge, they land at Westminster, and
there they attend in the Chequer-chamber (being
served with wine and cakes), until they are
called by the heralds: then they put on their
cloaks.
The use of my lord's cloak, f From Michaelmas
to Whitsuntide, violet, furred ; and from Whitsun-
tide till Michaelmas, scarlet, lined.
The lord mayor, and those knights that have
borne the office of mayoralty, ought to have their
cloaks furred with grey amis ; and those aldermen
that have not been mayors, are to have their cloaks
furred with calabre.
And, likewise, such as have been mayors are to
have their cloaks lined with changeable tafFaty,
and the rest are to have them lined with green taf-
faty.
For the Jirst day of every quarter sessions. The
first day or every quarter sessions, in the forenoon
only, my lord and the sheriffs wear their violet
gowns and cloaks furred ; but at Midsummer quar-
ter sessions, the first day they wear violet gowns
and scarlet cloaks, and on the other days black.
For the burial of aldermen. The aldermen must
be in their violet gowns, except such ais have their
friends black gowns. When any alderman dieth,
Master sword-bearer is to have a black gown, or
thirty-three shillings and four pence in money ; and
if he giveth my lord a black gown, Master Sword-
* My lord in a crimson velvet gown, collar of S. S. and sceptre. No
doak.
t Beginniog upon Michaelmas e\-cD.
bearer
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LONDpy AND IT9 IINVISONS. £41
bearer is to have another, or forty shillings in mo-
ney, the price thereof, and so carry the sword in
black before my lord.
Master Chamherlain is not to wear his tippet, but
when my lord mayor or aldermen wear their scarlet
or violet.
Fw the Nommatum cf an AUerman. My lord
wearetfa his black gown and violet cloak, and both
the sheriffs black gowns.
For the Orphans' Court My lord and the alder-
men meet at the Guildhall in their violet gowns,
without cloaks; but my lord mayor must have his
cloak.
This court the common-crier warneth.
For the Election of Gooernars of Christ's Hospital,
&C. For the election of the governors of the seve-
ral hospitals, the lord mayor and aldermen wear
their black gowns.
VOL. in. I i CHAP. XXXII.
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Ui HWir^^ A5b SwjttTKY or
CHAt. XXXli.
Of ihn tiviry x^ LonHon^'^jlecoimi cfih^ Incdfp&ritHom
nf tiu Arts mi Mysteries iff m Citizens*
The Kverymen of London are a body dwt%ict
from the ircemen at large, and Jnvesfccfifkh tile
sole privilege of dectinp the tMgistrates 6f ^he
city and its representatives to parliament. Ill is
f privilege appesfrs to have been obtained aboot the
fifteenWi.year of the reign' of Edward ly. when
the master, wardens, and liveries of the sey^Ml
companies were taken in to assist at the electioii
of mayor, sheriffs, &c. and has continued uninter-
rupted ever since, except in the time of the con>*
monwealth, when it was disputed ; but Stow says,
^ How this was carried in the new commonwealth
that was then set up in this nation, when many
other ancient laws and customs were violated^
I cannot^ tell : but when the ancient kingly go-
vernment* was restored, the old custom of election
prevailed as it still doth ; and the liveries are the
eUctors."
They are all members of some one of the city
companies, each of which is a corporation within
itselt^ possessed of the power of holding courts
called hall-mptes, for regulating the concerns of
the company, as was observed in the last chapter.
These companies were anciently called guilds ;
a term which, in its earliest use, was only applied
in a secular sense, for there were also ecclesiastical
guilds to the body or community of a city or
town. Afterwards we find the aggregate body
of
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of the merc^wto or 'traders of a city or town,
oUled by the name of Gilda. M^fCatoria ; and
the b^d ofl^f^er thereof was usuaelly called alder-
man of ttie xqef chants' guild, whoseoifice seepis to
hdxe beet* similar to that, of tt^e Dean of Guild in
the royal borpughs of Scotland, at the pre3ent day,.
In process of time^ as tiading towns increased in
number of mh^itants^- the retailers find artizans
in ^reat^ townf obtained charters for incorporating
their respective callings ; i. e. for engrossing and
monopolizing all the business of thejr town, ii^
exclusion of non-freemen : they also obtained the
names of guild, fraternity, aiid corporation,^
We fipd^the last^-qanied kind orguilds m Lon->
don pretty soon aftpr the Norman conquest: Mr.
Madox, in his Firma Burgi, takes notice of seve*
ral guilds iq Lopdon as early as 1180, that wercs
amerced to the crown as adulterine, iV e, Sjet uff
without warrant from tl^ king; as the goldsmiths,
butchers,, glovers^ /curriers, &c. On the other
hand, there were then also several warranted or
lawful guilds, for it appears that the weavers of
London paid a rent or ierme, as it is called in the
style of the exchequer, to King Henry L who
reigned between 1100 and 1135, for their guild,
and had, in after tijnes, great disputes with the
city of London, concerning their high immuni-
ties and privileges*
But the oldest charters now in being, of the
most eminent companies in London, are of a later
date ; viz. the goldsmiths and skinners, nut till
the year 1327; the grocers, in 1345; and the
other companies still later.
Of the present companies, twelve are called the
chief, and are sometimes stiled honourable. Who-
ever is chosen mayor, must be free of one of these
eompanies ; and whenever it happens that the lord
mayor
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S44
HISTORY AND SURTET OP
mayor elect is of any other company, he must take
up his freedom in one of these.
Subjoined is a list of the city companies^ each of
which will be noticed ^parately, with their order of
precedency ; but some of them have neither hall
nor livery. /
Mercers
Grocers
Drapers
Fishmongers
Goldsmiths
Skinners
Merchant Taylors
Haberdashers
Salters
Ironmongers
Vintners
Cloth-workers
Dyers
Brewers
Leather-sellers
Pewterers
Barbers
Cutlers
Bakers
Wax-chandlers
Tallow-chandlers
Armourers and Braziers
Girdlers
Butchers.
Sadlers
Carpenters
Cordwainer$
Painter-stainers
Curriers
Masons
Plumbers
Innholdets
Founders
Poulterers
Cooks
Coopers
Tylers and Bricklayers
Bowyers
Fletchers
Blacksmiths
Joiners
Weavers
Woolmen
Scriveners
Fruiterers
Plasterers
Stationers
Embroiderers
Upholders
Musicians
Turners
Basket-makers
Glaziers
Homers
Farriers -
Paviors
Loriners
Apothecaries
Shipwrights
Spectacle- makers
Clock.
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Clock'inakers Tobacco*pipe- makers
Glovers Coach and Coach-har*
Comb^makers * ness-inakers
Felt-makers Gun-makers
Framework-knitterf . , Gold and Silver Wire-
Silk- throwsters drawers
Carmen Long Bowstring-makers
Pin- makers Card- makers
Needle-makers Faq-makers
Gardeners Wood-mongers
Soap«makers Starch-makers
Tin-plate-workers Silk-men
Wheel-wrights Parish-clerks
Distillers Fishermen
Hatband-makers Porters
Patten-makers , Watermen
Glass-sellers
Mercers. 1.
The company of mercers, which is the first of
the twelve principal companies, was incorporated
by letters patent, granted by King Richard II. itL
the year 1393, under the title of, *' The wardens
and commonalty of the mystery of the mercers of
the city of London," with a license to pprchasc
an estate of, twenty pounds per annum, in mort-
main, which by numerous gifts and additional
grants is so increased, that when, in 16^8, the
company accepted of Dr. Ashton*s project for
providing a maintenance for clergymens* widows,
they invested upwards of fourteen thousand pounds
in a fund for securing thirty pounds per cent, per
annum, to the widow of each subscriber, during
life : but this annuity being found larger than the
fund could bear, it was afterwards reduced to
twenty percent. The members of this company
are not only exempt from quarterage, but upon
their admission to the livery, pay only a small finCi
They
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.t4^ HintoRY AKH snyjBT o»:'
•
They are goveraed by a prime, and: tliree ^ther
wardens, aiid a court' of assistants. ' It is a vealtl^
company, an4 th^y pay in. charitable beiiefa<itK»i»
about three thousand poynds'per annum* . ' ^
, . Grocers/ -2. ,
The grocers' cbmpany anciently denon)inated
pepperers, were incorporated by letters-patent of
king Edward III. in the year 1345, by the name
of " The wardens and commonalty of the mystery
of the grocery of the city of Ixjftdon,'* which wa»
afterwards confif^med by King Henry VI. in 1429^
who. also granted to this company the office .of
farbling, in all places throughout the kingdom of
Ingland, tbe city of. London only excepted.
These grants were confirmed by a new charter,
granted by King Charles I. in the 15th year of
his reign, with an additional power ^ of searching
and inspecting the goods and weights of all p^^
sons, using or exercising the trade of a grocer, iq
the city and suburbs of London, or within three
miles round the same.
Anciently they bad also the management of the
king's beam in this city, with a right of appoint-
ing a master weigher and four porters to attend it.
This company formerly held the highest rank
among the city companies ; for in the reign of
Henry IV. there were no less than twelve of the
aklermen, at one time, belonging tp it. It ha^
also been dignified with the nam^s of five kings
enrolled among its members.
It is the second of the city companies, and is
governed by a master, three wardens, and fifty-
two assistants. The fine on admission to. the li-
very is twenty guineas. *
DRAPERS.
/•
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LOKDOK AND ITS EKVIAONS. '9^7
Drapers. III.
The drapers' company was an incieht society or ^
guitd, det^oterl and dedicated to the Virgin Mary;
aud was incoq>orate(l by letters patent of Henry VI.
A. D. I4S9, by the style and title .of " The master,
wardeod, brethren a#i<i sisters of the guild or frater*
nity of the blessed Mary the Virgin^ of the niys<-
tery of drafters of the city- of London."
This is tn« third 6f the tw^Iye principal compa*
aies, and is governed by a master, four wardens,
and a court of assistants. .They have veryjargc
estates, aad pay considerable sums annually to cha*
xitable usps. * . • " .
The fine oft admission basbeen raised fr6m tithe
to time to twenty-six pounds. Henry Pitz-Alwihe -
tlie first mayor was a member of the ancient guild: .
Fishmongers. 4.
^ The company of fishmongers is the fourth in the
li3t 6f the ctty corporations: they were originally
two bodies, viz. stqck-fish mongers an4. salt fish* .
mongers ; and between them had no less (ban six
halls ; two iu Thames-street, twa ia N^ew Fish-
street, and two in Old Fish*stteeL
This company, as well, as other-persons con-
cerned in furnishing the city with provisions, weic
anciently under th.e imriiediate direction of the
courts of lord mayor and aldermen, to whom this
power was confirmed by an act of parliament ia
the seventh of Richard H. in the year 1884.
The salt-fishmongers were incorporated, A. D.
1433. ' The stock-fishmongers not till 1509. But
this separation proving prejudicial to both, they
united, and obtained a charter* from King Henry
Vin. in;153&, by which they were incorporated
by the name of *^ The wardens and commonalty
of
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d48 ' HISTORY AVn 8UEVBV OF
of the qiystery of Fishmongers of the city of
London/*
This corporation is governed by a master, five
wardens, and twenty-eight assistants ; and the li-
very fine is thirteen pounds, six shillings^ and
eight-pence.
Goldsmiths. 5.
The company of Goldsmiths is the fifth in the
order of precedence ; and appears to be of great
antiquity ; for in the reign of Henry II. in the
1 1 80, it was, among other guilds, fined for being
adulterine, that is, setting up without the king's
special license. But at length, in 1327, Edward III.
in consideration of the sum of ten marks, incorpo-
rated this company by letters patent, by the name
of *• The wardens and commonalty of the mys-
tery of goldsmiths of the city of London;** and
granted them the privilege of purchasing an estate
of twenty pounds per ann. in mortmain, for the
support of their valetudinary members, which
grant, in the year 1394, was confirmed by Rich-
ard ir. for the sum of twenty marks. These
grants werC afterwards confirmed by Edward, IV.
in the year 146S, who also constituted this society
a body politic and corporate, to have a perpetual
succession, and a common seal. By the said grant
they had likewise the privilege of inspecting, try-
ing, and regulating all gold and silver wares, not
only in this city, but in other parts of the king-
dom ; and this privilege has beeii since &o mate-
rially enlarged, that they have the power of in-
specting all gold and silver wares in the following
particular places, viz. Birmingham, Sheffield, Ches-
ter, Newcastle, Norwich, and Exeter ;. with the
power of punishing all oflenders concerned in
working adulterated gold and silver ; and of mak-
ing bye*laws for their better government.
1 This
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- This fratertiify isfotertted by a mtoter, thteewatw
dens, and ninety-tiigbt assistants; and the livery fin«
is twenl!^^one potindsv
Skinners* 6.
TTie Skinners* company was incorporated by
King Eij ward I If. in the year 1327, by the appeK
lation of ^' The master and wardens of the guild
or fraternity of the body of Christ, of the skinners
of London."". • This charter was afterwards con-
firmed by Henry VL in tbeyear 1438, which deed of
confirmation directs, that every person, on bis ber
ing admitted to the freedon) of the company, is to
be presented to the lord mayor. By these grants the
corporation were restrained from making bye-laws.
This is thp sixth of the twelve principal com-
panies ; and is governed by a master, four warr
dens, and sixty assistants. The fine on admis*
sion IS fifteen pounds.
The members of this company pay no quarter-
age, owing to their being possessed of great estates
left fir trust to them by^several benefactors, out
of which they pay large sums annually to chari-
table puiposes.
Merchant Taylors. 7.
The qompany of Merchant Taylors, whioh was.
anciently denominated '' Taylors and Linen Ar-»
morers," was incorporated by letters patent, of the
fifth of Edward IV. iu-the year 1466 ; but many
of the members of the company, being great mer-
chants, and Henry VII. a member thereof, he, by
letters patent, of the eighteenth of his reign, A. D.
1505, re-incorporated the same, by the name of
" The master and wardens of the Merchant-Tay-
lors, of the fraternity of St. John the Baptist, in
the city of Londgn." They are governed by a
VOL. Hit 'Kk master,.
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S50 HIW0»1i AND. «P|LVEY OV
ms^tfSi fwr w^rcterts, ^4. a coiurt of thbrtjr^
eig:ht 9a$i9t4|it(94 Their livery k ni^merous^ and
their estates are very comidejrable ; out of wktch
they pay to charitable uses, pursuant to. the wills
of the respective docioi^^ »b&u4{ two thousand
pounds per annum. rT^y.ars; the seventh of the
city companies, s^nd their,. livery fine i;^ tlvirty
guineas.
Habepdashers. ,S.
Tlie company ()f Haberdashers, whicti is the
eighth in order of precedency, was anciently known
by the name of Hurriers and Milainers, from their
dealing principally in merchandize imported from
Milan in Italy. They were after>k'ards incorpo-
rated by Kin^ Henry VI. in the year U'ffT, by the
style of •* Ihe fraternity of ^t. Cutherine the
Virgin, of the Haberdashers of the city of Lon-
don.*'. At presetrt, however, they are denomi*
nated ." The master and four wardens of the fra-
ternity of the art or mystery of Haberdashers in
the city of London • but by what authority does
not appear.
This corporation is governed by a master, four
wardens, and a numerous court of assistants. It
is a livery company, and has at all times been of
such repute, that they have been intrusted with
the benefactions of many pious persons, pursuant
to the wWU and dirjections of whom, they pay
annually for charitable uses about the^um of three
thousand fiw hundred potirtds. The Hvery fine is
twenty-five pounds.
Salters, 9.
The company of Salters appears to be of great
antiquity, from the grant of a livery by Rich-
ard IL ill the year 1394; but we do not find they
• were
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LONDON AND iri ENVIRONS. fiSl
were incorporated till the first of Queen Elizabeth,
in the yeai 1558, when, by letters patent, they
were stilerf, " The msistefi wardens, and common-
alty of the art or mystery of Salters of London.^
This is the ninth of the twelve principal compa-
nies; and is governed by a master, two wardens,
and twenty-three assistants. The fine, on admis-
sion, i^/twenty pounds.
They have considerable possessions, out ofwhicii
they pay large sums annually to charitable uses*
Ironipongers. 10.
The Ironmongers* company was incorporated by
charter from King Edward IV. in the year 1464,
and is tbe tenth of the twelve principal companies
in this city- It was incorporated by the name and
style of "The master and keepers, or wardens, and
commonalty of the art or mystery of Ironmongers
of London."' And, by virtue of the said charter,
the government of this fraternity is now in a
master, two wardens, arid a court of assistants,
which consists of the whole livery, and represents
the commonalty or whole freedom. The livery
fine is fifteen pounds. •
This company enjoys very great estates both in
their own right and in trust from several donors,
by whose wills they pay yearly near one thousand
eight hundred pounds in charities ; besides the in-
terest or profits of twenty-six thousand pounds,
left to them by Mr. Tliomas Betton, a Turkey mer-
chant, in the year i724, under the special trust of
employing one moiety of the said profits perpetu-
ally iti t\\Q redemption of British captives from
Moorish slavery, and the other moiety to be
equally distributed between the poor of the com-
pany of Ironmongers, and the several charity-
wbools within the bills of mortality.
Vintners*
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S5S HISTOHV AKP 8UmVJfV Of
Vintners. 11.
The Vintners* company was anciently denomt*
nated ^' Merchant JVineiunners of Gascoync \ and
was composed of two sorts of (lealers, viz. the
Viniinariiy who were the importers of the wine, and
the Tdbernarii^ who were the retailers of it.
Some authors have erroneously asserted, that
the craft of Vintneri was inc^orporated by Ed-
ward III. which mistake arises from his chapter,
granted in the year 1365, to enable them to carry
on an exclusive importation trade from Gascony.
ybcy were incprporated in the year 1437, by Ut-
ters patent of King 'Henry VL by the name of
V The roaster, wardens, and freemen and com-
monalty of the mystery of Vintners of the city of
Londpn. This is the eleventh of the twelve prin-
cipal companies; and is governed by a master^
three wardens, apd twenty-eight assistants. The
line, oa admission, is twenty-six pounds nve shil-
lings.
The freemen belonging to this company have
|;he privilege of retailing wine without a license.
1 hey have considerable possessions, oiit of which
\\\ey pay large sums annually for the relief of the
poor.
Cloth-workers. 12.
The company of Cloth- wo rkers^^v^s at first in-
corporated by letters patent of Edward IV. in the
year 14&2, by the name of *' The fraternity of
the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, of
the Shearmen of London, which was confirmed by
Henry VIII. in the year 1528. Buf they being
afterwards re- incorporated by Queen Elizabeth,
she changed their first title to that of '* The mas-
ter, wardens, and commcnialty of freemen, of the
^ art
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LOKDQK AKD ITS «NYiaOKS. USS
jLTt said piystcry of Cloth-workers of the city of
London*" Ihis Uut charter was confirmed by
CJ^arlesI. in 1634.
This is the hist of the twelve principal Compaq
nies; and is governed by a. master, four wardena^
and thirty-nine assistants. The fine, on admisr
sion, is twenty pounds. They have considerable
estates both in their own right, and in trust for
others ; out of which they pay large sums annu-
ally to charitable purposes. . .
Apothecaries* 58.
The company of Apothecaries was incorporated
at first witli the Grocers \n the year I606 ; but
such a connection not answering the purposes of
their incorporation, they were separated by ano-
ther charter granted by King James L in the year
1617, and incorporated by the name of ** The
master, wardens, and society of the art and mys-
tery of Apothecaries of the city of London :" at
which time there were no more than one hundred
and four Apothecaries' shops within the city and
suburbs of London.
The members of this company, who by divers
acts of parliament are exempt from ward and parish
offices, are governed by a master^ two wardens, and
twenty-one assistants. It is a livery C9mpan^,'and
the fifty-eighth on the city list. The fine, on ad-
mission, is sixteen pounds.^ *
Armourers and Bratziers. 22,
The company of Armourers was incorporated
by King Henry VL about the year 1423» by the
title of *' The master and wardens, brothers and '
sistei*s of the fraternity or guild of St. George,
of the men nf the mysteries of the armourers of the
city of I^ndon." Xhe same prince also honoured
. 3 the
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254 HISTORY AND SURVEY O*
the company by becoming one 6f their members. To
this company, which formerly made coats of mall, is
united that of the Braziers, who are jointly governed
by a master, two wardens, and twenty-one assist-
ants. It is a livery company, and the fine, on ad-
mission, is fifteen pounds.
^ Bakers* 10.
The company, of Bakers appears to be of great
antiquity ; for in the year 1 154, it was charged in
the great roll of the exchequer with a debt of one
mark of gold for their guild ; by which it seems as
if the ancient guilds had held their privileges in fee-
ftirm of the crown. This company, however, was
not incorporated till about the year 1307; after
which their charter was renewed by Henry VII.
and confirmed by divers of his successors. It is
incorporated by the name of " The master and
wardens of the mystery or art of Bakers of the city of
London.'* It is a livery company, and the nine-
teenth on the city list. The fine, on admission, is
ten pounds.
Barber^Surgeons* 1 1^
The art of Surgery was anciently practised in
this city only by the Barbers, who were incorporated
by letters patent granted by King Edward IV. in the
year 1461 ; and in \5\% an act was passed to pre-*
vent any persons besides the Barbers from practising
Surgeiy within the city of London, and seven miles
round, except such as were duly examined and ad-
mitted by the Bishop of London, or Dean of St,
PauFs, and such persons expert in Surgery, as they
shoukl think proper tof call- to their assistance. At
kngth several persons, who were not Barbers, being
examined and admitted as pmctitioners in the aft
«f Surgery, the parlianent united them* in the
thirty-.
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L01I]>(DIN AND ITS £NTIROK9. S56
thio^HieoDisd year of the teign of King HemyVIII.
by the q>peUatioa of *' The masMr or gov€rm)rB of
the mysteiy or commovialty of Barbers and Sufgeoiis
of the city of London ;'^ and by this act, all persons
practish^ the art of sbtfviiig, were strictly eRJoined
not to intetmeddle with that of Surgery^ except
what belonged to drawing' of teeth. Thus this com-
pany obtaiiMul the nanie of Barber-Surgeoos, which
they contimied to enjoy till the eighteenth year of
the reign of his late majesty King George II. when
the Sui^eons applying to parliament to have this
union dissolved, were formed into a separate com-
pany ; though the Barbers Were left in possession
of Uie bail and theatre, and were constituted a body
poKtic, under the name e£ ^^The master, gover-
nors^ and . commonalCy of the mystery of Barbers
of London.^'
This is a livery coftipany^ under the government
pf a master, three wardjens^ and twenty-six assist^
^nt9; and the admission fine is ten pounds.
Basket-makers. 52.
The Basket-makers area fraternity by prescription
and not by charter ; but when, or by whom erected
into a fellowship is unknown. They are, however,
included in the list of the city companies^ by the
title of " The wardens, assistants, and freemen of
the company of Basket-majters of the city of Lon-
don.^^ This community is governed by two wardens
and forty-eight assistants ; but has neither livery
nor hall.
Blacksmiths. 40.
The company of Blacksmiths was anciently a
guild or fraternity by prescription, in wliich state it
continued till the reign of Queen Elizabeth, in the
year I57I, Avhen they obtained a charter of incor-
poration.
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S66 AISTQBY AND Suk'VEY Of
poratien^ by tfa^ name of ^^ 'the koepern'Or wcntlenfr
.and society of the art and mystery de i^ Blacks
atnitha, of London ;^' w hich-^was confirmed by Kiog
James L
This company is governed by a master, three
v^ardens, and twenty^-one asaistants^ It js tbe ibr^
tieth on tbe city Ifst ; and the fine, on admissioR,
is eight pounds. Since the company has abandoned
the hall on Lambeth^bill, the business <i>f it ja. trans*
acted atXIutler's-hall.
Bowyers. 48.
The Bowyers were a fraternity by prescription^
till the eighteenth of James I. when they were m-*
corpofated by the name of " The master, wardens^
and society of the mystery of Bowyers of the city
of London/'
It is somewhat singular, that this company should
not have been incorporated until the above period i
and that it should have been incorporated thenf
when the use of the bow, as a military engine, was
superseded by the introduction of fire-arms.
This is* a livery company, and the thirty-eighth
in the list of city companies. It is under the mn
verqment of a master, two wardens, and tweh^e
assistants;, but having no hall, their business i^
transacted at the new London-tavern.
Brewers,, 14.
The Brewers' company, which is the fourteenth
among the city companies, was incorporated by
King Henry VI. in the year 1438, by the name of
" The master, and keepers or wardens, and com-
monalty of the mystery or art of Brewers of the
city of London.*' King Edward IV, not only con-
firmed that charter, but granted- them a further
power to make bye-laws.
The
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LOUDON AKD ITS XVTIROm. S57
This corpomtion anciently bore the arms ofHiO'*
ni»4L-Becket, impaled witb their own; but that
sabit's bones bdng taken up and bnmt, and un-«
sainted, by the powers in being, Clarencieux, Bjng
at arms, in the year 1544, separated them, and gave
the Brewers a crest in lieu thereof. It is now a
livery company ; and is governed by a maaler^ three
wardens, and twen^-eight assistants ; and the fine^
on admission, is six pounds, thirteen shillings, and
four-pence.
Batchers, 24.
The company of Butchjers appears to be of great
antiiquity ; for, in the 36th of Henry II. it was fined
for setting up a guild without the king's license. Its
present charter was not granted till the third of James
I. who, on the 16th of September, 1605, did, by let*
tew patent, incorporate them by the name of " The
master, wardens, and commonalty, of the art at
mystery of Butchers of the city of London.'' It is a
livery company, and the twenty-fourth in the city
list ; and is governed by a master, five wardens; and
twenty-one assistants. The fine on admission is
ten guineas.
Card-makers. 83*
The Card-makers' company was incorporated \>y
letters patent of Charles I. in the year 1629, by die
name of '^ The master, wardens, and commonalty, of
the mystery of the makers of piaying^ards of the
city of London.^ It» is governed by a master, two
wardens, and eighteen assistants ; but has neithei^
livery nor hall.
Carmen. Q7.
By an act of common-council, passed in the reign
of Henry VIII. the Carmen were constituted a feU
lowship of the city of London; 'and, in 1^06, they
you III. JL 1 were *
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238 HISTOEY AMD SURVEY OW
were incorporated with the fraternity of FuellQrsv
under the . denpmination of Woodmongers, with
whom they continued till the year 16(58 ; when the
latter, having been convicted by the parliament of
enormous frauds in the sale of coals, and being ap-
prehensive of the consequences, threw up tbeirchar-
ter; on which the Carmen were re-appointed a fel-
lowship, bv an act of common-council, under the
title of " 'f he free Carmen of the City of London/'
They are governed by a master, two wardens, and
forty-one assistants, under the direction of the court
of lord mayor and aldermen, but have neither hall
nor livery.
Carpenters. 26.
This ancient fraternity was incorporated by letters
patent of Edward 111. in the year 1.344, by the name
of '^ The master, wardens, assistants, and common-
alty, of the mystery of the freemen of the carpenters
of the city of London ;'* with a power to make bye-
laws for their better regulation.
It is a livery company, and is governed by a mas-
ter, wardens, and court of assistants. It is the twenty-
sixth on the city list ; and the fine on admission is
twelve pounds.
Clock-makers. 6 1 .
This fraternity was incorporated by Charles L in
the year 1632, by the name of "The master, wardens,
and society of the art of Clock-makers of the city of
London/' It is governed by a master, wardens, and
twenty-eight assistants ; but has no livery nor hall.
Coach-makers. 70*
The company of Coachmakers was incorporated
in 1671, by letters patent of Charles II. by the name
and>. style of " The master, wardens^ assistants, and
commonalty, of the company of Coach and Coach-
• harness-n^akers
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LONDON AND ITS E^VIROOT. S5Q
darness-makers of Londoi>/^ It is governed by a
master, tbree wardens, and twenty-tbree assistants;
and the livery fine, on admission, is nineteen pounds.
The number of this company, in thfe order of pre-
cedence, is seventy^-nine.
Comb-makers* Q3.
The Comb-makers' company was incorporated hy
K. Charles L. in the year 1636, by the name of
** The master, wardens, and fellowship, of the Comb-
makers of London/' It consists of a master, two
wardens, and thirteen assistants ; but has no Wvev}^
• nor hall.
Cooks. 35.
This society was incorporated by letters patent of
Edward TV. in the year 1480, by the name of " The
masters, and governors, and commonalty, of the
mysteiy of Cooks, in London."
Every person who is desirous of becoming a mem-
ber of this company, must be presented to the lord
mayor,.before he can be admitted to the freedom.
This is a livery company, and governed by a mas-
ter, wardens, and twenty-five assistants. They had
formerly a convenient hall in Aldersgate-street, wiiiclj
was destroyed by 'fire in 1771, and not being rebuilt,
the business of the company is transacted at Guild-
hall. '
' Coopers. 36. ,
The Coopers' company was incorporatkl in IdOl^
by letters patent of King Henry VIl. under the title
of " The master, wardens, and assistants, of the confi-
pany of Coopers o^ 'Londoh 'tfttd subOrb^ thereof/^
and, in the sUcceedia^ reiigh', was etrt|to^eped,'by tH*
actofpstrHament; tojaeal^and gau^e 411 b6er, al^i
and sdstp^ vessels, wilhln the c*tV of London, and^ti^
miks roun^ytsfitiburbs, forwbkh they%<^c^Ml€ifwd(f
^ a farthing
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960 8ISTOBV 4V0 SmtTSY Of
t §9n\mg for each cask. Tbey ve gofcroad by it
Qiastert thme wardeas, imI twenty aaaiitairiB ; and
their livaiy ar9 v^ numefoua. Tm fi^a on adiMi-
aioa ia fi^n pounda.
Cordwainers« 27.
tlie company of Cordvrainers or Shoemakeia, was
u iiat incorporated by Kiog Heniy IV. m the year
t4flO» by tb9 naaae of Cordwaioera and C^)teiat the
latter of which names was at that time fer firom betn;
CQate8aptible» aa it signified not oaiiy a stioemaker,
but a dealer in shoes ; nor does it appear that the
Mfotd shoemaker was then in use.
Since the original incorporation, the company have
obtained a fresh charter, by which they are now
caUed, *^ The master, wardens, and commonalty, of
the mystciy of Cordwainere of the city of London.**
It is a livery company, and the twenty-seventh in
the city list. The line on admission is ten pounds.
Curriers* 99*
Tbe Cunriers are a company of considerable anti-
ijuity, and founded a eurld, or brotherhood, in the
conventual church of W hite-friars, in Fleet-street^ in
the year 1 367* King James I. incorporated them on
the 30th of April, 160.5, by the style of ** The mas-
ter, wardens, and commonalty, of the art or mystery
of the Curriers of the city of London.^'
It is a Uvery company, governed by a master) two
wasdpna, awl a court of asaistenla.
Gutje][rs. 18.
T^e C^tlwa' oompany waa inoorpoiated by King
Henry V. in the ye^ Hi7) b^ the aQ4e of '' The
master, wiaf^eMi ttd ooprnKwalty of <ie^ niyatenrof
CuUeraof Londoii/' Ami tbey iv^teafterwuida anked
|o the S^lt awiL.SliMtlHKaken* ti is # lifery oosbn
1 pany.
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^ftm(jfi9f>ywmiihy a smier^ two mmlens/iuid Urmty-^
OK tM9taatft; and idba fine on admiaiiM. is ten
Distillers* 74.
The Distillers were incorporated by K. Charles I.
in the year 1638, by the name of >• Tiie master, war-
dens, assistants, and commonalty, of the trade, art,
or mystery of DhrdUers of London/'
n^his is a livery eooipany^ and is gfovemed by a
maatier? three ward^is, aad nineteen assirtanta; bM
i^viflg no hall belonging to it, die joaeetinga of the
company are held at DraperVbaU«
Dyers. 13.
This coaipany waa incorporated by King Edward
IV. lA ^eyear 1473, by the name of ^' The waidens
and commonalty, of themystery of Dyers of London.*'
Among other privileges granted to this company, by
their charter, is that of keeping swans on the river
Thanes^ This was originaUy one of the twelve prin- '
cipal companies* but it is now numbered as the thip>
teentli^ It is governed by two wardens and thirty
aasiatanii ; and the livery fine is fifteea pounds.
Embroiderers. 48.
The fimbrdderer^ were incorporated in 1561, by
l(9ttera nateBt of Q^een Elizabeth, by the name of
'^ The keepers, or war^lens, and company, of the art
or mystery of Broderers, of the city of Londoo^^' They
are a livery company, governed by two keepers, or
wardens, and forty assif^ntfr; and the fine upon ad-
mwion i^ five pounds.
Faji-makers. 84.
This company was incorporated by Queen Aniie>
in the year I709» by the appellation of *' The mas- ^
ter, wardena, assistants, and society of ' the art or
mystery
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S62 Hismttv jiUft sonTKy i^tf^a
«}qstai^ of Fan*>iinkerl/'m the 'dfii»'«of
and Wmtoiinster, and 'twmity ^miieft' round tk^
same/^ It is governed by a master, two warded^/
and twenty assistants; bu( has neither livery nor
hall. Their meetings are held at. the . London*
tavern in Biahopsgate-street.
Farriers. 55*
. This frateraitjr watf incorporated, by K. Charles 11.
in the year 167S, by the style of *^ The master^
wardens, assistants, and oonunonalty of the com-
pany of Farriers, LoDd<»i/'
It is a livery company, and is governed by a
master, three wardens, and twenty-four assistants ;
and the fine, on admission, is five pounds. Having
no hall, they meet at the George and Vulture,
ComhilL
Felt-makers* 64.
The f'elt or Hat-makers were anciently united
with the Haberdashers ; but a separation being ob^
tained by the former, they were, by letters patent
of James L in the year 1 604, incorporated by the
name of '' The master, wardens, and commonalty
of the art or mystery of Felt-makers of London/'
This is a livery company, governed by a master,
four wardens, and twenty-five assistants ; aiid their
livety fine is five pounds. They hold their meetings
at Pewtierer's-hali.
Fishermen. SQ. .
The company of Fishermen was incorporated by
letters patent of James II. in the year 1687» by the
name of " The Free Fishermen of London ." But
they have neither livery, hall, or arm«/ '
Fletchers.
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\ LONDON AND ITS ENVIEONS. fi6S
If »
Fletchers, 39.
Though this is only a cop)pany by prescriptioo,
it has nevertheless obtained a co^t of arms ^d ^
livery ; aad appears to be in ail respects as 6rmly
established as those incorporated by letters patent*
It is gdvepned by two wardens^ and ten assistants.
They had formerly a convenient hall in St. Mary-
Axe ; but it having for some years past, been used
as a warehouse for goods, they now meet ^t the
George and Yukure in Combill. The livery fine of
this company is t^n pounds^
Founders. 33.
The fraternity of Founders was incprporated by
letters patent of the twelfth of King James I. in the
year 16 1+, by the name of " The master, wardens/
and commonalty of the mystery of Founders of the
city of London ;^' and they have power to search all
brass weights, and brass and copper wares, within
the city of London, aiid three miles theireof. And
all makers of brass weights within that circuit are
obliged to have' their several weights siz^d by the
company^s standard, and marked with their common
mark : and such of these weights as are of avoir-
dupois weight, to be sealed at the Guildhall of this
city ; and those of troyrweight at Goldsmiths-halL
It is a livery company, governed by a master, two
wardens, and twenty-four assistants ; and the fine
paid on admission, is eight pounds, seven shillings
and six*pence.
Framework-knitters. 65.
This fraternity was incorporated by letters patent
of King Charles IL in the year 1663, by the name
of
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264 HISTORY AND tI7EVl£Y OT /
of ^^ The master, wardens, assistants and society of/
the art and mystery of Framework-knitters in the!
cities of London and Westminster, the kingdom of
England, and dominion of Wales/^ It is a hvery
company, and is under the direction of a master,
two wardens, and eighteen assistants. ^^Y o^^t
: at the Kmg's-head in the Poultry ; and the fine, on
admission, is ten pounds.
Fruiterers* 45.
This company was incorporated by letteis patel^t
of James I. in the year 1605, by the name of " The
' master, wardens, and commonalty of the mystery ot
Fruiterers of London/'
It is a lively company, and is governed by a mas-
ter, two wardens, and thirty assistants.- The fine, on
admission to this company, is five pounds.
Gardeners. 70.
The Gardeners were incorporated by letters patent
of James I. in the year 1616, by the name of "The
niaster, wardens, assistants, and commonalty of the
company of Gardenei:s of London. Though this
company is incorporated by charter, yet it has nei-
ther hall or lively. It is governed by a masrter, two
wardens, and eighteen assistants ; and its meetings
are held at Guildhall.
Girdlers. 23.
This company was incorporated in the twenty-
Seventh of Henry VI. on the sixth of August, 1449 ;
and re-incorporated with the Pinners and Wire-
drawers by Queen Elizabeth on the twelfth of Oc-
tober, 1568, by the name of " The master and war-
dens or keepers of the art or mystery of the Girdlers
of London." It is a livery company, governed by
a master^
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LOVPON AMP ITS JBMViaONS. 865
% master^ three waideiii, and tweoty-four assist-
ants ; and the fine, on admission, is ten pounds.
Glazier& 53.
This company was incorporated with that of the
Glass^painters by letters patent of Charles I. in the
year 1637, by the appellation of ** The master^
wardens, and commonalty of the art or mystery of
Glaziers and Painters of glass of the city of Lon-
don/' It is a livery company, and is governed by a
roaster, two wardens, and twenty-one assistants;
but their hall having been destroyed by the fire in
1666, was not rebuilt. Their meetings are held
at present at the New London Tavern. The ad-
mission fine is three pounds.
Glass-sellerst 77.
The Class-sellers and Looking-^lass-makers were
incorporated by King Charles 11. m the year 1664,
by the name of ^^ The master, wardens, assistants,
and conmionalty of Glass-sellers of the city of Lon-
don.*' This is a livery company, under the direc-
tion of a master, two wardens, and twenty-four
assistants ; and the fine, on admission, is five pounds.
They meet at the Antwerp Tavern.
Glovers. 62.
The company of Glovers was not incorporated
^j'l the fourteenth of Charles L who, on the fifth of
September, in the year 1638, granted them a char-
ter by the name and style of " The master, war-
dens, and fellowship of the company of Glovers of
the city of London/' It is a livery company,
governed by a master, four wardens, and thirty
assistants ; and the fine on admission is five pounds,
thirteen shillings, and four-pence. Their hall in
VOL* III. Mm Beech-lane
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BIsetfMf-l^Mte'liiLi^g ^oA^ to diec^^ my !n«I% M Oi^
George ttttdVukore, CwrtWtt.
Gold and Sivfer Wite-di^awers, 81.
^'hts rraterhity Xvas incorj)bratecl ty tetters patent
of king" James 1. irt tlie yenr 1623, t>y the name of
^ 1'h'c governor, assistants, ahd commbAiJtY, &c.^
but being re-inc6rpoVated by King XVilliam an^Qiieen
R-Tafy, m tfie year 1693/th'e title Was changed to
^hat of '* llie master, wardens, assistants, and com*
tndnalty of the art ari^ mVstery of drawiht afid flat-
ting of gold arid silver wire, and making atfd spinning
of gold and silver thread arid stuffs, in 6ur city w
Loiidoii." •
This company is goveYTied by ^ thistef, t\v6 War-
dens, and eighteen assistants ; but fhey have neither
hall or livery ,^and hold their meetings at the New
L6nddn Tavern.
Giirr-m^ikfei-s. 80.
,1'hjs society was incorporated by letters patent of
King Charles.!, iii the year l6'JS\ by the naipe of
'*' The master, wartlens^ and society of Gun-naakeis^
of the chy of London." U consists of a master, two
wardens, and eighteen assistants; but they hav6 no
livery or halh Thev hold tlieir meetings at Guild-
hall.
Hatband-makers. 75*
This fmterriity was incorporated by tetters patent
of King C'hfflrle:? 1. in the year I6ri8, by the appella-
tion of " The blaster, wfirdens, assistants, and fellow-
ship of the mysfery <'f Hatband-makers of the city
of London/ It is governed by a master, jwo trardens,
and tw^elve assistants; but has not any Irvery, or
Imll.
When
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When nek hfttWuds were mv^ ^worp, t|^ cQOh
pony vas m a very flouriiiltipg 99P<^i^<W ; tt^t ^b^(
faahion having been loapy years Wid aside, p;;^^ Ihk^-v
iMBi 16 now so reduced, tM U^^ne are v^xy few of
the pvofession, who |i>eet »t preset ia Cuil^'^^ai),
Homers. 54/
This eamfBiny was iacarpontted by lettei:s patent
of Charles I. in the year 1 638, by the name of " The
master, wardens, assistants, and commonalty, of the
art and mystery of Homers of the oily of Lc^^^q/' It
consists of a master, two wardens, and nii^c assist*
$aits ; but has no livery, or hall.
Innholders. , 32.
This company was incorporated by King Henry
VIII. on the 21st of December, 16\6, by the name
of ** The master, wardens, and company, of the art
or mystery of Innholders of the city of i^owdon." It
is a livery companv» the thirty-second on the city list;
and is governed by a master, three wardens, and
twenty assistants. The fine on admission is ten
pounds.
Joiners. 41.
This company was inoorpor^ted by Qupen Eifzs^-
bedi, in the year 1669, by jthe na^n^ ci ^' The master,
aodl wardeos, and copmion^dty, of t1;ie faculty of the
Joiners and Ci^ra of iA)\9d9a.'' They are govpffted
by a master, wardens^ and twc^ntyr^fo^r ^stfiats ;
and the fine on admission is eight pQUuds.
LeathersQ]lex& 15.
The conipany of Leathersellers Avas incorporated by
a diarter Kom King Henry VI. in 144^, hy the style
of '^ The wardens and society ol, the jvystery, or ait,
of Leathersellers of the city of London." And, hy
a grant from King Henry VM. the wardens of this
company
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268 HISTORY AND 8UEVEY OF
company were empowered to inspect sheep, Iamb,
and calf leather, throughout the kingdom, in order
to prevent frauds in those commodities. The corpo-
ration is governed by a prime, and three wardens, and
twenty-six assistants ; and the fine, on adnussion to
the livery, is tweuty pounds. Since their hall has
been pulled down, this company meets in a house
in Little St. Helen's, belonging to themselves, but at
present let on lease.
Long-Bow String-makers. 82.
This is not a company by charter, but only by
prescription; and may therefore be considered as an
adulterine guild. However, it has obtained a coat
of arms, and, in point .of precedence, is numbered
the eighty-second on the city list. It consists only
of two wardens, and a small number of assistants;
but has not any livery, or hall.
Loriners. 57.
Though the company of Loriners appears to be
very antient, yet they were only incorporated by let-
ters patent of Queen Anne, iti the year 1712, by the
name of ^^ The masters, wardens, assistants, and com-
monalty, of Loriners of London.*^
This is a liveiy company, under the government
of a master, two wardens, and twenty-four assistants;
and the fine, on admission, is ten pounds. Not hav-
ing had a hall for some years, the aflRiirsof this com-
pany are transacted at the NagVhead in Leadenhall-
street.
Marblers.
The company called by the name of Marblers, for
their excellent knowledge arid skill in the art of
insculping figures on CTave-stones, monuments, and
the like, were an ancient fellowship; but being no
incorporated
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MVDOK AND ITS SNYIBaNS, 969
incorpomfaed cx)nipany of themselves, are now joined
with the company of Masons.
Masons. 30.
The company of Masons was originally incorpo*
ratted about the year 1410, by the name and style of
" The Free MaBons," In 1474*, William Hanck*
stow, Clarencieux king at arms, granted them the
arms of their society, as borne at this time; but the
present company act under the incorporation granted
by letters patent of the twenty-ninth of Charles IL
on the 17th of September, 1677, by the name of
^' The master, wardens, assistants, and commonalty,
of the Company of Masons of the city of London/^
It is a livery company, governed by a master, two
wardens, and twenty-two assistants. The fine on
admission is one pound sixteen shillings.
Musicians. 50.
This society was incorporated by letters patent of
James I. in the year 1604, by the name of "The
master, wardens, and commonalty, of the art or sci-
ence of the Musicians of London.*' it is a livery
company, and is governed by a master, tvyo wardens,
and twenty assistants. The fine on admission is
twenty shillings.
Needle-makers. 69.
This fraternity was incorporated by letters patent
of OUver Cromwell, in the, year 1656, by the name
of **-The master, wardens, and society of the art and
mystery of needle-makers of the city of London.''
This^is a livery company, under the government'
of a master, two wardens, and eighteen .assistants ;
and the livery fine is three pounds, six shilhngs, and
eight pence. Having no hall, this company nieets at
that belonging to the cutlers.
2 Paintcr-Stainers.
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870 utncmv ado jMr»v«v w'
Painter-Staineps. dft.
This fraternity was incovporated by letters patent
^f queen Elusabeth io the year ld81» by tbe name
of ^^ The master, wardens^ and commonalty of the
freedom of the art and mystery of painting, €Med
painter-stainerst within the city of London.'^ It is
a livery company, and governed by « niaster, two
wardens, and nineteen assistant. It is the sath oa
the city list; and the fine on admis8i6a is fourteen
pou<ids.
: ^ • Parish Clerks, 88.
This company was incorporated by letters patent
of Henry 111. in the year 1233, by the naoieof
** The fraternity of St. Nicholas ;" by which they
were known till re-incorporated by James I, in the
year 161 i.
These grants were aderwards confirgied by letters
patent of Charles h in the year 1636, who incor-
* porated them by the name of '* The master, war-
dens, and fellowship of parish clerks of the cities of
London,* Wesminster, Borough of Southwark, *and
fifteen out parishes"
This company consists not only of a master, two
wardens^ and nineteen assistants, but also the whole
body of parish clerks within the bills of morta-
lity.
Patten-iHAkers. 70.
The company of patteAimakers wfis iiicc«pomted
by lett^» patent of Charles II. in the ye^ 1670, by
tlie name of ^* The ma^t^, wardens, ftssiatants, and
fellowship of the company of pattennnaken of tjbe
city of London/^
It is a Hverv company, and is governed by a mas-
ter, two wardens, and twenty-four assistant. The
fine
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Googk
tfh^^S&^xxAto^m^t «ftt |^lfd«; and die tte^ngs ttf
f ke cetl^ny a]«f Bbia « €<i)ldb«il:
Payiours.: 6^
Hiis is a compatiy only by presol^tion^ and may
therefore be esteemed an adulterine gu^d. How*
^^f it hfti obtain^ a roat bf arms, and in point of
pk^^dence aihong the txty corporations, is num*
be^ed at aboVe. It is govenred by.' a nlaste^, three
^v'^em, and twenty- five assiirtants; but has neither
l^afl « KVeiy.
Pewterets. 10.
The firaterniW of pewterers was incorporated by
letters patent of the thirteenth of Edward IV. in tho
year 1474, by the title of •' The master, wardens^
and commonalty of the art and mystery of pew*
terers of the city of London/* And m the year
1^4, the wardens of this company or their depu-*
ties, were empowered by act of parliament to have
the Ttispfection <)f pewter in all parts of the kingdom,
in order to prevent the feale of basfe pewter, and
the importatioil df pewter vessels from abroad. And
as a farther ericouragement to this company, all
Englishmen are^by the sajd act strictly enjoined not
to repair to any foreign country to teach the art or
mystery of pewterers, on pain of disfranchisement.
Add for the more efipectually preventing the art from
being carried abroad, no pewterer shall take as an
apprentice the son of an alien.
This corporation* is governed by a master, two
wardens, and twenty-eight assistants. It is a livery
company, and the 6ne on admission is twenty,
pounds*
Pin-makers* 08.
This company was incorporated by King Charles L
in the year 16S6, by the name of •* The master,
wardens.
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97s; mstpft^ir ▲xfD svav&v oir ' '
waxdenst assistants :9ad conunaoalty of thejartor
mystery of ^inmiakerB of the city of Londoa.^' It
isgoveroedbyamaster, two wardens, and eighteen
assistants ; but has no livery.
Plasterers, 46;
This company ww incorporated by King He^ry
Vll. in the year 1501, by the name of " The mas-
ter and wardens of the guild or fiatemity of the
blessed Maty,, of Plasterers, London.^^ And this
charter was confirmed by King Charles II« in the
year 1667. It is a livery company^ and the 46th
in order of pfecedence'. It is governed by a master,
two wardens, and thirty-two assistants ; and the
fine on admission is eight pounds.
Plumbers* 31 •
This company was incorporated by King James L
on the 12th of April l6l 1, by the name of " Tha
master, wardens, and commonalty of the mystery
of Plumbers of the city of London.^' It is a livery
company, governed by a master, twowardeps, and
twenty-four assistants ; and the fine on admission
is thirteen pounds.
Porters. 00.
This fraternity, which consists of tackle and ticket
Porters, was constituted by act of common-council
in the year 1646, with a power of annually chusing
from among themselves twelve* rulers, vix. six of
each denomination, for their good government, and
•for hearing and determining all differences that might
arise between the members of the united body.
However, the court of lord-mayor and aldermen,
have reserved to themselves a power of appointing
one of their own body as the chief determinator of
aU
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«L019I>09 ANO ITS CMT-IBdKS* fiTS
ill controversies. This fraternity iiM Reither hull,
livery, or arms.
Pouker€rs. 34*
This company was incorporated by liters patent
tjf Henry VIl. in the year 1504, by the.tiame of
** The master, wardens, and assistants of Poulterers,
London.*
This is a livery company, governed by a master^
two wardens, and twenty three assistants ; and th«
fine on admission is twenty pounds.
Sadlers. 25.
The fraternity of Sadlers appears to be of great an«
tiquity, by a coDVention between them and the dean
and chapter of St. Martin's-le«*Grand, about the
reign of Richard L But it does not apoeftr that
they were legally incorporated till £dward I. gran^
them a charter by the style of ** The wftr(kns or
keepers, and commonalty of the Inystery or art df
Sadlers of London.*' It is a liveiy company, the
S5th in the city list; and is governed by a prime,
three other wardens, and a court of assistants. The
fine on admission is ten pounds.
.Scriveners, 44*
This company, which was originally denominated
" The writers of the Court Letter of the cityof Lon*
don,^ was incorporated by letters pateqt of James L
in the year 1616, by the name of ^* The master^
wardens, and assistants of the Society (rf Writers X)f
the city of London.*^
This is a livery compahjr, and id governed by a
master, two wardens, and twenty four asdistantSi
They had fiw-merly a hall in Noble-street ; but beingi
reduced to low circumstances they sold it to Iht!
VOL. III. N a company
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\ 97 i . HWSOSiY Jk^O SURVEY QW ;
coifipany of <xMLCh'*makeiB, in whose possession il
still remains. Their livery fine is five pouods.
Shipwrights- 5Q.
. * This was a society by prescription for a great iitim-
^ fi^ .ber of yeai3, but was at length incorporated by
J^ ' King James If. in the year 1605, by the name of
** the master/wardens, and commonalty of the art
or mystery of Shipwrights, London*^^ .
; It is governed by a master, two wardens, and six-
teen assistants ; and was admitted to have a Uvery
in the year 1782. Their hall which stood at Ratclifi'e
Cross, being puUed down, they now meet in the
Irish chamber, at Guildhall.
Silkmen. 67^
; This frat^rfiity wa9. incorporated, by letters patent
,of King Charles L in the year 1631, by the naine
of , " The governor, i^ommonalty, and assistants of
:the art. or mystery -of Silkraen of the city of Lon*
<|on.'^ It is under the direction of a governor, end
' .twenty assistants; but has not any Uvery or
Silk-throwers. 60.
This art was first practised in London in the reign
;of Queen EIizabeth<» by foreigners ; whose descend-
ants, and others, in the year 1369, were constituted
d fellowship of this city; and by letters patent of
.Cbailos I. in the year 1630, were incorporated by
.the naipe of *^ The master, wardens, assistants, and
commonalty of the trade, art, or mystery of Siik-
.tbrowers of the city of l^oudon,*^
. They are governedtby a master, . two wardens,
end twpnty assistant j^ but they have no livery or
^^i'-< . . ^ .. . ' / .. •; . ;
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LOSDOir' AV0 ITS ENYIKONS: SfSi
Soap-makers. 71.
ITie fratnemity of ^Soi^maken ws»- ihcarpomted
hy letters patent of King Cha(rtesl.i|i<ittej^ 1638;
by the name of ^ The master, wardens^ '^nd com^o
monalt y of Soap-maken, Lcttdon// Th^^ comiat of^
a master, two wardens, aird eigbteta ^assistacrtsjbijr
have no livery, or halt . . b> *
Spectacle-raaJfers. . 60U ^
This society was incorporated by letters. p^t^pniof
Charles I. in the year HiJO, by the/iiajne of '•.Thp,
master, wardens, arici fellowship of SpectacWwakers,
of London." ' '•
They consist of a master, two wardens».:and fif-
teen assistants ; but have no livery.
Starch-makers, 80* ..
This company was incorporated by letters patent
of James L in the year 1662, by the appellation of,
** the master, wardens, assistants, and commonalty
of the art or mystery of Starch- makera, London.'*
They are governed by a master, two wardens, and.
twenty -four assistants ; but have no livery, or
bail
Stationers, 47.
This ciompany was incorporated by Pliilip auid
Mary, in the year \6579 by the name of '* The
master, and keepers or warden??, ^nd commonalty
of the mystery or art of a Stationer of the city of
Iy)ndon/* It is a livery company governed by 4
master, two wardens, and twenty-nine assistants ;
and the iinf^ on admission is twenty pounds.
Tallow
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i2T$ utaaam akb wbxex. of
Tattow-clffindbrs- 9i-
Vm mde^ ^'W mcorporaCfid b[f Kii^' &d-^
wii^ IV.in the^yeiir I460y by the imaie of '' The
iMitar att(f koepemof tbe «rt wd mystery of TaUbw-
dmndfeiR o£ tbe ^ty ol Lood«/' It U tbe dlat
oa the aty list; and is gOVisarDeid by a loflster^ four
wardens, and court of assistaots. The fioe, on ad*
inission, is fifteen pounds, eight shiiliogs.
Tilers and Bricklayers- 37.
Though this fraternity appears to be very ancient^
yet tney wiere not incorporated till tifie reign of
iQucen EBzabetfis who, b^r her letters patent, dated
the 3d of August 1568, incorporated them by the
iiamc of *^ The master, and keepers, or wardens of
the society of freemen of the mystery or art of
^Tilers and Bricklayers of London/'
This i^ a Kvery company, and is governed by a
master, two w^pdens, and thirty-eight assistants.
liiey had formerly a convenient ball in a court on
the south side of Leadenhall-street; but it hai* beeii
long deserted by the company, and is now used as a
Jews Synagogue. The Injsiness of the company is
transacted at the New London Tavern.
Tinrplate-workers. 72.
This fraternity was incorporated by letters patent
of King Charles 11. in the yeai- 1670, by the name
of ^^ The master, wardens, assistants, and com-
monal^y of the art and mystery of Tiu-plate-workei-s,
alias wire-workers, of the city of London."
They consist of a master, two wardens, and twenty
assistants ; but have no livery, or hfill. Their meet-
jngs are held at GuildhalL
Tobacco
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TobeGco-pipe-makeFS. 78. .
This comply was im^orporated.by lettevspateol;
cf Kiag Cbarks iL iq the year 1663, by tb^ styie*
aad title of '' Tbe inastcar, wandensr a96ist^(»to aodi
feHQWship of the coiaapany &f ^ipe-makm^ of the.
cities of LoodoQ and Westminster/'
Tbey aie goveroed by a master, two wardens, and
eighteen aaaistaii^ts ; but have likewise no iivery, or
bftll, and hold their meetingis at Currier's Hall.
Turners. 51.
The fraternity of Turners was incorporated by
letters patent of King James 1, by the name of " The
master, wardens, and commonalty of the art or
mystery de lez Turners of London/*
This is a Itvery company, under the government
of a master, two wardens, and twenty four assist-
ants; and the fine on admission is eight pounds.
Upholders, 40.
This company was incorporated by letters patent
of King Charles L in the year. 1627,. by the iiame of
*' The wardens, and conam^^nalty of the mystery
or art of the Upholders pf tlie. city of l^ndbn/'
This is a livery company, and is goven^d by ^
master, wardens,, and court of assistants.
Watermen. 91*
The watermen do not appear to have had any
charter of incorporation before the reign of Philip
and Mary, when they were established by parlia«
ment; and it was enacted in the 2d and 3d of that
reign, cap. 16, That, out of the watermen between
pravesend and Windsor, eight ovei*seers shall b«
J ' chosei\^
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278 HIKTORV ANA' SVEtEY ^09
chosen by the court of aldermen of the city of Lon«
don, to. keep order orer tjie whole; bpdy^ .Besides
it is ordained, that their wHerfies are to be twelve
feet and a half long, and four feet and a half broad
m tfee midship, or be liable to fcrfeitupe : watermens
Aames are to be registered by the overseers, and their
feres appointed by the court x>f aldermen^ &c. and
the lord mayor and aldermen of London, and the
jtistices of the peace of the counties adjoiniiilg to
the Thames, have power to determine offences.
Bv Stat 1 1 and 12 W.III c. 2K lighte«»men-, &c.on
the Thames, between Gravesend and Windsor, are
to be of the society of watermen and wherry men,
who are made a company. The lo;rd mayor and
courtof aldermen shall yearly elect eight of the best
\\ atermen, and three of the best lighterman, to be
overseers and rulers ;. and the watermen shall cbiisa
assistants^ not exceeding sixty, nor 1^ thun forty,
and the lightermen nine, at the principal stairs,, foe
presrjrving good gqveminent<
The rulers, &c. on their court days are to appoint
forty watermen to ply on Sundays, betwixt Vauxhall
and Limehouge, fgr carrying passengers across the
liver, and to pay theih for their labour, and apply
the overplus of the money for decayed waternien,&c.
they may make rules to be obsen^ed under penalties ;
and the lord-mayor and aldermen, on complaint, arc
to 'bear and determine offences, &c. None but such
as have served their time, or are servants or ap-
prentices to watermen, shall row or ply on the
river.
• By an act passed in the second year.of the reign of
King George II. no waterman on the Thames shall
take any apprentice or servant, unless he registers
the place of his known habitation with the clerk of
the company, on pain of ten pounds, and if any
person, not having served seven years tp a waterman,
shall
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIROKS. 279
shall rowany boat for hire, be incurs the lij^e penalty;
but gardeners^ boats, dung-boats, lighters, &c. are
axcepted*
There is also a court of assistants, which, by
the same act, is restrained to the number of thirty.
It is the 91st on the list of companies.
Waxchandlers. 20.
This company was incorporated by letters patent
of King Richard III. in the year 1483, by the name
and style of " The master, wardens, and common^
alty, of the art or mystery of Waxchandlers of Lon-
don.'* It is a livery company, and the twentieth on
the city list. They arc governed by a master, wai*-
dens, and court of assistants ; and the livery fine is
five pounds.
Weavers. 42.
This fraternity is very ancient, and appears to be
«ne of the first incorporated .societies in the city of
London. The Weavers were originally caUed The-
larii ; and, in the reign of King Henry L they paid
sixteen potinds annually to the crown, for their im-
munities. The company originally consisted of ta-
pestry and cloth^weavers, and, by an act of parliament
passed in the reign of King Henry IV. they were put
under the management and authority of the lord
mayor and aldermen of the city.. At present, how.-
ever, the company chiefly consists of worsted, cotton,
and si Ik- weavers. It is a livery company, governed
by two bailiffs, two wardens, and sixteen assistants;
and the fine on admission is ten pounds.
Wheelwrights. 78.
The company of Wheelwrights was incorporated
by letters patent of King Charles II. in the* year
1670, by the name of " The master, wardens, as-
sistants,
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380 HISYOaii; AND SmiV£Y Of
ststants, and commonalty, of the art ami mystery ci
Wheelwrights of the city of London.^'
They consist of a master, two wardens, and ^enty-
two assistants ; and were admitted to be a livtery com*
pany about fifty years ago.
Woodmonger^s. 85*
This fraternity was incorporated with that of the
Carmen, by letters patent of James L in the year
1605, with whom they cx)ntinued till the year 168S,
when being found guilty of mal*practices, they threw
up their charter to avoid a more severe punishment.
However, by an act of common-council passed in
the year 1694, they obtained the privilege of keep-
ing one hundred and twenty carts (exclusive of those
kept by carmen] for the more effectually executing
their business.
This company had die management of the public
carts committed to them for some time ; but by rea^
son of their bad conduct, the privilege was taken
from them, and the charge of inspection restored to
Christ's hospital.
Woolmen* 43.
Though the antiquity of this society may reason-
ably be supposed to be equal to that of the wool-
trade in this kingdom, yet it is only a fraternity by
prescription. However, it is one of the city com-
panies, and is distinguished by the name of "^ The
master, wardens, and assistants of the fraternity
or company of Woolmen of the city of London."
They consist of a master, two wardens, and a
number of assistants ; but they have neither bailor
lively^
CHAP.
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LONDON ANB ITS £NVIR0N9« £81
CHAP. XXXIIL
Early Commerce of London. — EstabUshment of Comm^r^
cial Companies, — Regulated Companies. — Hamburgh
Company, — Russia Company. — Eastland Company, —
Turkey Company, -^-AJHcoti Company. — Joint" Stock
Companies. — South-^Sea Company. — Easi-India Com^
pany,^-^Hudson'S"3ay Company. — Sierra- Leone Con^^
pajny,—Bank oj England.^ fFest Mia Dock Company.
-^London pock Company*
It has been already shown, in the two first chap«
tere of the first book, that, at 4;he time of the Roman
invasion, London enjoyed a considerable portion of
such commerce as then existed ; though the real
nature of it must ever remain conjectural : it is how-
ever, highly .probable, that, at that period, it was,
principally, if not. wholly, confined to an exchange
of the raw commodities of the Britons, fpr the goods
of their neighbours, the Gauls, who eame hit her for
that purpose; there not being any reason to sup«>
poise that this traffic employed a single British ves*
>el, or that the Batons possessed any capable of be*
ingso employed.
w hile things were in this state, the Romans in*
vaded Britain, at a period, when the art$ and sci*
ences ^er^in the most flourishing condition, through
all the territories under. their dominion. The obsti^
nate resistance opposed by the hardy Britons to tbeit
mote piblished invaderss long operated as a hindrance
to the introduction of the arts, and the^ wants of ci*
vilization ; yet by degrees, the natives acquired th/r
manners and customs of their conquerors, and be*
came &miliarized to them. With learning and po«
liteness the Romans introduced foreign commerce,
VOL. III. o o and,
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S83 HltTOKir AND SimVEY OT
andf according to, their usual policy, were as attidu-
ous io establishing marts, or emporia^ for the conve-
nience of traders, as they were in fixing camps and
military pG^ts, for the security of their conquests.
The local conveniencies of London* independent
of any previously established trade, would not have
escaped the Roman penetration, and it would doubt-
less have been chosen by them as one of their com*
mercial stations, bad tl^y not found it already pos-
sossedof an intercourse with theGauIs,theonly foreign
nation then known to its inhabitants. Accordingly,
we find several of the Roman historians speaking of
it as a place of great trade, very soon after Claudius's
invasion, which took place in the year 4S ; and He*
fodian calls it ^' a great and wealthy city/' at Ili6
end of the second century.
After the departure of the Renins, a new dduge
of barbarism was introduced with the Saxonsi idio
destroyed nearly all the imptovementB of diexr €i»
vilized predecessors; yet appear to have had araie
inclination for foreign commelcei since Bede tells
tis, that, in the year 604, London was a iuiious
mart of many nations that traded thither l^ sea ;
end there are authentic testimonies, that Alfred the
Great bad formed projects of vast discoveries in the
porth, and actually sent men of great abilities to the
east; the curioiities th^ brought home having been
preserved for a series of ages in the treasury of the
cathedral of Salisbury: this disposition, however^
tvas. checked and counteracted by the successive ar«
tival of fresh swarms of barbarians*
' During the short period of the Danidi donrina#
tion, the commerce of Loudon, though far £rom bet-
ing well regulated, partook of that increase which
was the natural result df the extendedsway of that
people, not only on the northern shores of France,
but ^n*6tft^r parts of Europe ; and ?o \x\^\y was mar
- • • ' -> ritime
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umpom A»D m iKVfEQirs. fiSS
jjttme oonmeroe valued, that, m tluf year 995«
Atbdatan, wiM> had succeedacl in expeUiog the
Danrss fiom London, and the southern parts of the
•slaiid, enacted a kw, ^^ That every merchant, i who
4Bade thvee voy^ies to .the Mediterranean sea, on
Jhb own account, should be raised to honour, and
eojoy the privilq^ of a gentleman/'
The Danes were succeeded by the Normans, whc^
pertly under colour of right, and partly, by force,
^atotad that moaasciiy, which, with various alteram
ii<m$ isad changes, stili subsists. To that monarcbj/^
ao established, and to those changes .and .aAteiation8»
me owe tbediaippy constitution under which we Uve ;
tbetlomestic tvadhs, which nourishes, aoiiumerous. a
fHsoplc,iby amply rewardii^ their industiy, and the
£Hteosive ^fore^ eooMoerce, which is at once, the
BSMosce/of our wealth, and the support of our inde»*
fendence cas B nation.
.During the turbulence of the reigna which sisCi-
eedkd the jNorman conquest, while the.people wen
kept in a fennent by disputes Jieiative to the succe^
sion to the throne, and their minds were' inflamed
«iihidie religions frenzy, inspired by the promoters
crf'ifae.crusadeSfihe commerce of London Was wholly
usurped fay the German merchants of the Steel**
yard, who had obtained a footing there, even prior to
^e overthrow of the Danish line of kings; and carried
on tbefore^ trade for their owuv benefit, and in
tiwir own dipping: for neither London, .nor the
Cinque ports, had, at that p^iod, either merchants
or ^hippng of any importance. Yet, under these
4liflBdii»[itage8, and while the sole exports were the
unmanufactured commodities of the kingdom, the
balance x>f ^tiadefwas in its favour, and a gradual;
though^Iow, acquisition of wealth followed.
At dengtfi, the CQaaprehensive mind of Edward
JpiL j)erceived the vait benefits accruing to the
Netherlands^
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284 ^ HIStOftY AttD 90RTEY OP /
Netherlands, from their extensive. wooUainuni«»
facture, the principal material of which tbejr owed,
ehiefly, if not soieiy, to hi^ own kingdom; and he
detenuioed to remove every obstacle, in order to
attain the same benefits and advantages to him«
aelf and his people. This salutary object was,
however, greatly injuned 1:^ the king's earnest
|mnmit of .the conquest of France, which deprived
the kingdom of much wealth and people, and in
the end proved alxn^tive. Bat, notwithstanding
this drawback, he was successful in establishing the
Bianuiactttre of woollen goods in London and its
suburbs, wheie, and in the adjacent countfes, it con*
tinoed until the increased coounerce of the capital
so enhanced the price of provisions and labour, as to
ticcasion the clothiers to remove into more distant
counties for cheapness. This was the first attem{A
of any of the ^reat monarchies of Christendom to
lienefit by home, mafuufactures and foreign com*
snerce; both of whioh were left to the petty states
Und free cities of Italy and the Netherlands, and to
khe Hans towns.
From this period until the reign of Quden £Iiza«>
beth, by whom the merchants of theSteel^yard were
€nally suppressed, the commerce of London was
subjected to continual fluctuations, caused by the
avarice or caprice of the different naonarchs who
swayed the sceptre of England, some of whom laid
severe restrictions upon foreign merchants, while
others invested them with ejctraordinary immuni*
ties: thus keeping the native nierchant in a state of
iiiicertainty, higlily injurious to hisr^peculations and
ptrtsuits^ V
* The cominercial history of tlf6* rei^ of £tizabefth
would occupy a space much fa^f ond what the limits
icfttns workman afford; su^e it, therefore to say,
^hat she passed many laws for the public jgocid,
^ .. J. ^ erected
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tX^TDOK AND ITS EVTIIOHS. S85
erected teveral oommercial c^ompanies^ and saw that
those companies pursued the ends for which ikkej
weiB erected; she excited and encouraged industiy
4tt home; put her subjects upon improving their ^
commodities and manufactures, introduced the art
of ship-building, filled her ports with able seamen^
showed a just. respect to English merchants, whom
she enabled to c^tain stock and credit, and, in a
word,, sowed the seeds of British wealth, though the
harvest was reaped- by her successors.
In this genend diffusion of the benefits of com*
merce^ it is impossible to distinguish those pecuUar
to London from the mass, except in the few instances
where the establishment of companies gives a locali^
to their operations, which renders the spot on which
they are established the center of all their mercantile
pQlBUitS.
Without entering into the discussion of jthe ques*
tioBy whether exclusive commercial companies are
or are not ultimately beneficial to a nation, it must
be admitted that they have been the general parent
of all the foreign commerce of th»3 country. They
are of two sorts ; viz. Regulated companies, and
Joint<s(ock coo^panies* In the first, any persoii pn> >
perly qualified, and agreeing to submit to the regu-
Jations of the company, may be admitted upon pay-
ing a certain fine ; but every member trades upon
his own stock, and at his own risk. In the second^
the trade is carried on upon a joint stock, and each
member shares in the common profit or loss, in pro^
portion to his share in the stock, which is transfer^*
able at the will of the bolder.
Of the regulated Compames.
Regulated companies resemble the incorporations
of trades treated of in the preceding chapter,and are a
sort
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ftort 9fedlm%eA }mmap»)] w of the aniie kniiL in Ifar
bmM jBdmit i^flkMi^ the fcmlegm oi vppteatice-
s^p-were the:8B]BejQiei in Diber ooqpKv^lMU* and en*
titkid the pmnn whp.liad s^ved :hb tune to amen^
l3«r«(f the compiay, to beoGmie fahiuietf a ineaber,
ioitiMtriiridiOQt panpngafiike, or upoa fayiog a mudi
fiUMUer one than wiiflt was exac^ f(if:filber people.
SThe uboal xroifcraitiosi Mpirit pretails in til jsgulated
«oinJHmies,riiliaRitiisJaat restnrioed^ and as
so inhabitant of a townean^^icri'ciseaa: adarporated
4BradiK, ^Utttil he has t&rst (ifatas^^ initbe,
vbiliiMitimi, 00^ in amfet: oaees, naauignctof the state
ccaa itwrfuHy «arpy: Jafi^ any dbKanch of £9Teigh Inde,
ifWHcyMdt a laegulertifdQompaiqr is^eatiAdiBhed, witb-
anitiyrst ^beconiiiig'ia manber jcrf that ieompan^«
ThK ii^aibiled compaaies for lioiseigD oonsieics,
which at present subsist, are, the Hambucgh/Gom-
^faay^theBuMsmCbinpiiiy^ the EradaaddC^panyt
tiie'faidiieyCoiiipaTiy^^ the ACtibnn <2biE^|»Djfw
! The IK^JtMirgh dompanyt
^iPhe -Mamburgh Company is the oldest trading
^tablishment in the 4c!ngdom. it was originaDy
-formed alboirt the year 1996, and fs &i^hi to iiave
Hiisai from tthe gwiW'of Mercers df the city pf ^jon-
-dwi, Who were the first English merchants 'Aat at-
tempted to the maatrfactore of woollen gpoads in
En^and, and, having obtained pri^vileges of ^hn,
IDifte of cBrabant, ^tablished a staple at Antwerp,
where they joined w4fh all the dther English mer-
chants tradmg thither. In 1406, this company ob-
tained a charter from King Henry IV. 'by their an-
cient name of " The brotherhood of Sir Thomas
Becket, Afcbbishop of Canterbaiy,'' whereby they
were enabled to govern themselves in their com-
merce both at home and abroad. Before the grant-
ing of this charter, all the English merchants, who
traficked
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titffletad Out 6l the realm wemisftto thm^owli
discretion^ and managed their B&drs widi foneigiiM
erd as beat aiiited their respective interests, without
any regaid to th« general commerce of the natioft;
Henry .endeavourea to remedy the disorder arising
from this want of ccaxttonl^ by uniting all the m«r«
chants of his dominiotls into one body ; wherein^
without loding the libeiiy of trading, each for him^
self) they might be subject to regulations which
should secure the general interest of the national
commerce, without prejudice to the interest of indi^
viduaisi His charter, which contained but few Arti-
cles, was afterwards much aii|mentf^ byHenir VIL
who gave them the title of "The Cotaipanym Mer^
chant-adventurers trading to Calais, Holland, Zea*
land, Brabant, and Flanders/^
This charter, however, was not sufficiently eac*
plicit to prevent dissentions among the memba:t
of the company, who, in 1664, petitioned Queen
Elizabeth for an explanation of certain articles in jt,
and a confirmation of the remainder ; when, to pre-
vent all disputes, that princess incorporated theni
anew, by a charter dated in the same year, uudef
the title of •' The Company of Merchsmt-adven*
turers of England/^ This is the first charter whidi
constituted them a body {)olitic or corporaticm,' iu
England ; and by it they were allowed a common
teal, perpetual succession, and libarty to purchase
lands, and exercise government in any part of Engf
bud : but if any of the .members should marry a
foreigner, 6r holil lands in or neat any of the places
to which they ttaded, he was to be, ipsofdcto^ dist
ftanchizcd and excluded fi'om the privileges of the
company*
In 1586, Queen Elizabeth granted them a second
charter confirming the former, and granted, them
♦ ' ^ the
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^ 5288 nmo&Y and avatey or
the privilege of exciusioQ, with power to appoint a
standing council in each city within their grant*
Hie revolutions which happened in the low coun-
triea towards the end of the sixteenth century, hav«
ing hindered the company from puiauing their c<Hn-
merce with their ancient' freedom, they were obliged
to direct it almost wholly to Hamburgh and the
cities on the German ocean ; whence some people
took occasion to change its name to that of ^^ llie
Hamburgh Company, but the old title of Merchants
adventurers is still retained in all their, writings.
The privileges of this company were confirmed
and extei^ded by James I. and Charles I. the latter
of whom fixed their freedom fines at ^fry pounds
for merchants dwelhng in London, and twenty-five
pounds for those of the out-ports : but these fines were
doubled by the parliament in i64;j, who, in oon^-
deration of an advance of thirty thousand pounds
passed an act for settling and connrming the privi^
legeS'Of this fellowship.
About the middle of the seventeenth century^
fi:equent complaints were made to the parliament by
the clothiers and free traders of the west of England
against this company as monopolistB, who confined
the trade and oppressed the mannfactures of the
country; and in the year 1661, a full statement of
the accusations on one side, and the defence on the
other, was laid before that body, but no law was
fussed in consequence of those proceedings ; and
since that time, we hear of no more complatnts
. jfiom the company of separate traders, or, as they
called them, interlopers, nor on the other hand^ of
any uneasiness of merchants not fi^e of it ; but of
late years this company has fsdien to decay.
^ Russia
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liOMDOK AND ITS EHTIftONS. 9|89
Russia Company.
The Russia company took its rise from the dis-
coTeiy of a passagie to that country by the northern
extremity of Norws^ and > Lapland, in the latter
part of the reign of E!dward VI. who died before he
had completed a very ample charter to the adven-
turers; their first charted of incorporation was
therefore executed on the fifth of February, in the
first and second years of Philip and Mary. By this
charter the association was declared a body politic,
under the name of ^^ The Company of Merchant-
adventurers of England for the discovery of lands,
territories, islands, Sec. unknown or unfrequented,^
and they were invested, amopg other privilges, with
an exclusive right of trading to Archangel, atid
other ports of Muscovy, not yet frequented by th^
English. "^ •
Thi% charter, however, not being sufficiently
guarded, an act of parliament was paissed in the
eighth year of Queen Elizabeth for confirming it ;
by which it was enacted, that the company should
from thenceforth be called " The Fellowship of
English Merchants for discovering new tradeis ;'' un*
der which name they should be capable of acquir-
ing and holding all kind of lands, manors, rents, Sec.
not exceeding one hundred marks per annum, and
not held of her majesty ; that no part of the conti'^
nent, no inland, harbour, &c. to the north, or north-
w^t or north-east of London, nor anfy part of the
continent, islands, &c. under the obedience of the
Emperor of Russia, or in the countries of Armenia,
Media, Hyrcania, Persia, or Ae Caspian sea, should
be visited by any subjects ; of England, to exercise
any conunerce, without the consent of the said com-
pany, on pain of confiscation. The said company
VOL. III. ' p p .► shall
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1290 HISTORY AND SUBVEY OF
shall use no ships in their new con^meTce, except
thpse of the nation ; nor transport any cloths, serges,
or wooUeu stuffs, till they have been dyed and
pressed. That, in case the company discontinue of
itself to unload commodities in the road of the Ab-
bey of §t. Nicholas, in Russia, or some other port
on the north coasts of Russia, for the space of three
years* the other subjects of England shall be allowed
to traffic to Narva, while the said company disconti*
nues its commerce into Russia. This was the first
statute made for the establishment of an exclusive
commercial company.
The English Russia company remained entire
masters of the trade to Archangel, until the death of
Charles L when the Dutch, having gained a power-
ful influence in the Russian court, the ministers
thereof laid hold of that opportunity, under pretence
of resentment against a nation who had murdered
their king, to introduce the Dutch into the Archangel
trade, upon condition of their paying fifteen per cent,
upon both exports and imports. After the Restora-
tion, the remains of the company re-established part
of their commerce at Archangel, but with very infe-
rior success.
This company is under the direction of a governor,
four consuls, and twenty-four assistants; and, by an
act passed in the lOtb and 1 1th of William IIL the
tine, on admisaion, was reduced to five pounds.
Eastlaud Company.
The Eastland .Company was incorporated by
Queen Elizabeth, in 1579, under the title of " The
Fellowship of £^tland Merchants,'' who were to
enjoy the sole trade through the Sound, into Norway,
Sweden, Poland, Lithuania, except Narva, which
was within the Russia Coqipany's charter, Prassia,
1 Pomerania,
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 291
Pomerania, from the river Oder, eastward, Dantzick,
Copenhagen, &c.
This conapany, which was principally designed for
the encouragement of English merchants, in oppo-
sitioji to the llanseatics, was empowered to have a
common seal ; to cho»»se a governor, a deputy* or de-
puties, and twenty-four assistants; to hold courts,
and make bye-laws for their own government, and
to impose fines, imprisonment, &c. on all non-free-
men trading to those parts. By the articles of their
charter it was provided, that no member of any other
company, or retail dealer, should be admitted a mem-
ber of this; nor any qualified merchant, w^ithout pay-
ing six pounds thirteen shillings and six pence.-
This charter was confirmed by Charles I. in 1629 j
with this addition, that no person, of what quality
soever, living in London, should be admitted a mem-
ber, unless hfe were free of the city. Nevertheless,
the company having been frequently complained of
by the merchants, as a monopoly, their privileges
were curtailed by act of parliament, in» 1672; and,
since the Declaration of Rights, &c. in 1689, the
company can only be said to have had a nominal
existence, though it continues to elect officers anpu-^
dly, and holds its meetings in Stepney-lane, Wood-
street.
Turkey or Levant Company,
The first provisional charter for the incorporation
of this company, was granted by Queen Elizabeth,
in the year 1 j81, for the term of seven years, to Sir
Edward Osborne, an alderman of London, and three
other merchants, with power to admit twelve other
English merchants into their association, and to make
bye-laws, appoint factors and servants, &c. on con-
dition that they annually exported so much goods
• to
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!S93 HISTORY AKD 8UEVKY OP
to Turkey^ as should pay five hiuidred poutiib ciis-.
torn to the crown.
Though thVs charter 'must have expired in 1588,
;it does not appear to have been renewed until the
year 1599, when the queen granted a second charter
of inc(»*poration to fifty-three knights, aldermen, bnd
I merchants, for a further term of twelve years, under
the name of " The governor and company 6f mer-
'chants of the Levant,'' the limits ci their charter' to
be the Venetian territories; the dbminiOQs of the
'Grand Seignior by land and sea ; and, through his
/countries, overland, to the East Indies, At this time«
there appears to have been a separate blanch of this
c6mpany,who traded on a Jointstock, and Were called
., the Morea Company; but the general Turfcey com-
pany was always a reflated one.
On the expiration of this term, in 1605, King
1 James I. incorporated a perpetual conipany, by the
^designation of ^* The Merchants of England trading
to the Levant Seas/' This, charter enables a nurni*
'ber of persons therein named, and their sons, and all
; others who might be afterwards admitted, or made
free of the company, annually to elect a governor,
deputy governor, and eighteen assistants, to manage
all matters relatine to the trade, freedom, &c. Thie.
admission fine to be twenty *five pounds, for peisoba
under twenty-six years of age, and fifty pounds for
those above it ; but all apprentices of the members
to be admitted, on payment of twenty shillings
During the civil wars there were seveiral innova-
,tions in the government of the company; many
.persons having bieen admitted members, not qualified
.by the charters of Elizabeth and James, or that did
liot conform to the regulations prescribed. Charles
II. endeavoured to re-establish it upon its ancient
l^isi to which end, in the year 1661, he graiited a
new
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new, or 8UppleiiientiiTy» charter to the company^
inrhereby, after ratifying and confirming the charter
o£ 1605, it is directed, that no perBon residing within
'twedty miles of Lobdon, except noblemen and gen-
tledien of qiiality, \5hbll be 'admitted into the fr^edoth
of the daid'ctiinpany, urikss first 'made *fi^e of the
'city of London. .
' In the year 1744, an attempt W«s made to h^
'this frade open, land a bill for that purpose ivas intro-
'diiced into the House of Commons; btitthe com-
pany being heard at the bar of the house, gave such
^convincing reasons against the bill, that it was drop-
'ped: and, in \7^S, an actwas passed for r^^Iating
and ^ttlai^ng their trade, by which the fine Was re-
'dOced to twenty pounds, and the privilege 6f admis*
^ion extended to every British subject, \vho, on his
"iB^dknissidn, must swdar not to bend any merchandize
fo the Levant, but on his oWn account, 6r jointly
y?ith other members of the company, and • not to
' consign them to any butsuch as are free of the com*
' ftaqy, or the agents or fbctors of it
The company has a court or boaid atL6nd6n,
^ i/^hich ii <^6mposed of a governor, deputy gOvernibr,
'and eighteen directors; or asdBtants,all of whom must
11 Ve In London or the suburbs. They hai^e afeo a
* deputy governor in every city or port, where there
' are any members of the company. The bdard it
* London sends out the' vessels, and regolates the
'pribe at which £uit)pean merchandize, sehtto'the
; Levant, is to be sold, and the quality 6f the mods to
^ be returned. It also rslis^s taxes on the merchandize,
^ to deftay the duties and ihe common expenses Of the
' ctimpany ;* presets the' kmbismsador sent by the kirig
|td the Porte, and dbcts consuls ibr Smyrna, Conitan-
tinojile, &c,
African
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S94 HISTO&y AND 8URV£Y OF
African Company.
. The first African company wa^ incorporated ia
the year 161 8> by KingJanifes I- who granted an ex-
clusive charter to Sir Uobert Rich, and other Lon-
doners, for raising a joint stock for a trade to Guinea;
bnt.9S the separate traders could not be prevented
from resorting to that coast, such disputes arose be*
tween them, as soon ended in the dissolution of the
company.
In 1631, King Charles I. granted a charter to a
second company; by which he not only prohibited
bis own subjects, the patentees excepted, but like-
wise the subjects of every other prince and state^
from resorting to, or trading within the limits of, ttie
said company, which extended from Cape Blanc, in
twenty de&rees of north latitude, to the Cape of Good
Hope. These patentees proceeded in erecting forts
and warehouses on the coast, at a vast expense; but
the separate traders broke in upon theni, as they had
done in 1618, and, in a great decree, forced the trade
open again ; and so it remained until after the Re-
storation; when a third exclusive African company
was incorporated, for the purpose of supplying the
West India plantations with negroes. At the head
of this company was the Duke of York, afterwards
James II. from which circumstance, and the know-
ledge of the king^s inclination for a rupture with the
Dutch, they engaged in war instead of attending to
commerce; and, having lost their forts, and wasted
their treasure, they surrendered their charter to the
crown. In 167^, a fourth exclusive company was
erected, with a capital of one hundred and elevoi
thousand pounds, the whole of which was subscribed
in nine months ; thirty-four thousand pounds of it
being allowed to the late company tot their three
fort5*
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 99S
Jbrts, viz. Cape Coast Castle, Sierra Leone, and James
Fort, on the river Gambia. This company soon im-
proved their trade, and increased their forts; but on
the passing the act of parliament, commonly called
the Declaration of Rirfits, in the first year of William
and Mary, it shared the fate of all the exclusive com-
panies not authorized by parliament, and the trade
was again thrown open ; but the company continued
to exist. In 1698, all private traders to Africa were
obliged, by act of parliament, to pay the company
ten per cent, to assist in maintaining their forts and
factories. But, notwithstanding this heavy tax, the
company were unable to maintain the competition,
and their stock and credit gradually declined.
At length, having become, in every respect, a
bankrupt company, notwithstanding a parHamentaiY
grant of ten thousand pounds per annum, toward
their support, they were dissolved by act of parlia*
ment, in the year 17 -'>9, and their forts and garri-
sons vested in the present regulated " Company of
Merchants trading to Africa,*^ which had been esta-
blished by the same authority two years before. By
this act, all the British subjects trading to Africa,
were constituted a body p9litic, with perpetual suc-
cession, a common seal, and the other privileges of
a corporation ; and the fine for admission was limited
to forty shillings. They are, however, prohibited
from trading in their corporate capacity; from hav-
ing a joint stock; from borrowing money on their
cominon seal, and from laying any restraints upoii
the trade, which may be carried pn freely from all
places, and by all British subjects, on payment of
the fine. The goyemment is in a committee of
nine persons, who meet in London, but are chosen
annually by the freemen of the company, resident
at London, Bristol, and Liverpool, three from each
place; but an v committee-man, or any servant of
the
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Ae<XHaa|i9n3r, vaBjf be team^t for mii^avjotit^ \^
a comuuU^e o£ coiw^il. Tbe cbmmi^e^ are pi»hi«
l>it9d from cacryiiig oa aay tradci, to 6t froix^ Afijqa^
with tbe inooey belpoging to the coiupany; but^
lifter defr^Qg the aalaii^ c^ theif officers,' apd other
cb^e» of BvmweiiieQt, are allowed to divide tbe
^ufplus am<»Dg u&ein^yei, a» a compepsation for
their tropbli^. An anoual sum is allotted by parlia-
neat, generally about thirteen thousand pouods, for
fnaiataining the forts and settlementa in Africa, and
the acpountf of the coxapany are examit^ed upon
Ofith, before the curiitor ^^aron of the Exchequer,
preparatory to their beiqg lai^ b^ote parliamentt
and al$o before the gf nei^ meeti^ oi tbeur ow^
mqEi^bm in London, Briatol, and
Tbu^ this veiy cbij^iderable branch of British
Gomfl^erce «|9suined a npv appearance, ^£ter najrinff
passed thfiough several 4^^^^^ constitutioqis ana
vaoouf (sonditiouB. The relations e^tabUshed by
thisfc^, rfemain still in force, and with general apr
pijpbation; d^ough there are not wantins some, who
think a tn^e of such in^portance should be und^ }
. stiicter goxemqient, and eveo in a joint-stock cor-
poration.
Of the Joint'Stock Companies.
The trade of a joint-^ck company is always ma*
ju^ed by a court of di^ectoi^. Thi^ court, Indeed,
is frequently subject, in many respects, to the coo-
jtroul of a general court of propcietors. The grefiter
part of those proprietors, however, ^Idom pretend
to understand any thing of the business of the com-
pany, and, unless when a party spirit prevails, give
Ijbemselves no trouble about it, but.receive, content-
edly, such yearly or half yearly dividends as the di-
rectors think proper to n^ke them, or thev are cDti-
Itled to. This total exemption from trouble, or riak,
beyond
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Lomxm AN]> imsKvinoKs. t97
beyond a. litBiiied aufli> eocMrigw Moy people to
become adveotuwrs in igi0tHiili)qk jcompaities, who
would not hazard, their iortuuea jn a private cm
paitnerahip. . Such compenied, thtvelbre^ communty
draw to themselves muob grt'ater^ stocks than any
other paitaeiship can boast of. JBut the directcns of
s«Kh companies, being the managers rather of the
money of others than of their own, catinot be ex-
pected to watch over it with equal vigilance ; and
hence negligence and profusic^ must alwa^^s prevail;
mctte or kss, in the conduct of their afiairs. It is
upon this account, that, joint-stock companies for
foreign trade are unable to maintain a competition
against, private adventurers. They ba^'e, therefore;
veiy sekioin succeeded without an exclusive privi-
lege; and frequently have not.succeeded with one.
The mercantile joint-stock companies^ at present
6ub»sting in London, are, th<^ South-Sea and £ast^
India companies; to which may be added, though
of very inferior magnitude, the HudsonVliby Com-
pany, and the Sierra-Leone Company. . '
The South-Sea Company.
During (he long war with France, in the reign of
Queen Anne,* there arose a very large arrear .of navy^
yictuaUingrand transport debentures, and also of
«my debentures, &c« without any established fund
for putting them .into a regular course of being dis<*
chaigi^d; for which reason they were at a discount
of forty, . or even fifty per cent. By this, means a
Itfge part .of :the national debt, amounting, to nine
million four hundred and seventy-one thousand three
biindn^ and twenty <-five poUnds, was in the hands of
usurers; The Earl of Oxford, Lord Trrasurer totbe
Qu^env thought he should secure the monied inte-
lest^oftthafState, tf wfund could b^: established Jov
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the regular pvjtMnt of this Itrge anrear; and ac-
cordin;aly, an act of parliament was pasBed, in 171 19
for making good defiQiMoi€6,and aatisfyiiig the pub«
lie debts; for erecting a coiporation to carry on a
trade to the South Seas, &ic.
We roust here obsenre, that some of our adven-
turers to South America, in Queen Elisabeth's time,
as well as the Bucaneers, had raised in the minds of
the people the highest ideas of the advantage of a
trade thither; and these ideas were strengthened
by observing the vast riches which France had pro-
cured from thence, while the Duke of Anjou ruled
in Spain. It was also remembared, that, so early as
the twenty-first of James L a company, or associa-
tion, for a Spanish West^India trade, had been pro-
posed in the House of Commons, and that, in King
William^s reign, as well as in the former put of
Queen Anne's, during Lordpodolphin's administra-
tion, there had been much discourse of an expedi-
tion to the Spanish West-Indies, in order to make a
permanent commercial settlement there. At this
time there Were schemes handed about and pub-
lished, setting forth the advantages of .forming esta-
blishments in the South Seas, even by force, on ac-
count of the vast quantities of gdd, silver, rich
drugs, Sec. found there; which, with the considera*
tion of the immense profit made by the Spanish
merchants, 6n the £uropean merchandize they sent
thither, joined to the feebleness of the Spanish go-
vernment IB those parts, were plausible allui^ementa
for a nation, of a genius so enterprizing and -com-
mercial as ours, to strive for a participation in these
advantages at first hand.
In this state of the public mind the bill was passed ;
by which her majesty was empowered to incorporate
all the proprietors of the dektsabovt-meniioned r and
In pitiai|anqe4)f 4his4u:t liheywere incorporated by
: w .a charter.
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LOHDON J^ian Its SKTI10N8. fi99
a charter, dated <m the 8th of September, 171 1, ua*
der the title of <^ The Goyemor and Company of
MetcbaDts of Great Britain, trading to the South Seas,
aod other parts of Amenca, and for eaoQuraging th«
Fishery.'' By this charter the company was allowed
to t^KTea court of direcCofs, &c. to appoint courts c^
judicature in their forts, factories, and settlemaits;
to raise a miiitwy force for tbe defence of them, and
to acquire others withiu their limita. And by an act
of pariiament passed in the following year, all the
powers, 'privileges of commerce, &c. were made per-^
petual to the company, notwithstanding any redemp*
tion of their fund.
But though tbe company seem^ to be formed for
the sake of qommerce, the ministry never thought
seriously about making atiy settlement on the coast
of South America^ which was what flattered the ex«^
pectations of the people; nor w6s it ever carried
into enecutioH by the conpipany..
In the year 1715, tbe capital stock of this com*
pany was advanced to' ten milliona, and' two years
aftar, the interest on. it was reduced from six to five
per cent, and tbe cc^npany made a further loan of
two millions to the goveromeot
By the statute of the sixth of George I. it was de*
clared, tbut they might redeem alU or^any of the re-
deemdMe naliOiial debts ; io^ ccwsideration of which
the company was empowered to augment their ca*
pital, aocwding to the su ms they should discharge ;
and for enabling theqi to raise such sums for pur*
chasing annuities, and exchequer bills, carryingf on
their trade, &c. they might, by such means as they
should think proper, raise ^uch sums of money, as in
ageneml court of the company should be judged ne-
cessary* Tbe company was also empowered to bor^
row money on contracts, bonds, or obligations, under
tb^ common seal, either ibr tbe purpo«e(| of this
• act,
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300 tiisixmrr xieor soktct or
«er, <ir:for carrymg oii theirtcade, at such interest as
4;key shaU'think tit, and for atiy time, notilessthan
six months. It w«:^«lsa*f>fovjded^ ^hat/ notwith*
«ti(nding'l;heir fund b)%bl be redeemed at ^wj time
utter Midsummer, 17)2^^ on; giving otie ycWs notice,
'yet their tkade and eorporatecap^eity iras^tocontinui
fd'ever* . .- \ - . .i .n •,, ?.
' The fatal Souch«*Sea scheme of 1 T90\' originated in
the Ittst^nientioued statute. The* com^iiitiy bad «et
out with good success, and the valuq of their stock,
for thetfirsl ii?e yean), had arisen tasterthati that of
«9y 0tbe^oompaifiy ; aad his^ majesty, after pufcbasr
ing ten thousand pounds stock, had condescended to
be their goverilob; ''i^i^ tr^eie in^ tkM situation,
Irfaen, talcing advantage >df the above sftatnte, the
Sottth-Sea> Bubble 4Vtts^)K^ected. Th^^r6tenee waa^
to rais^ a fund for oarmug on a trade to the Sootlu
Seas^ and for^ parehsCt^ing t^cf aflnuitiess &<$l paid t&
the other companies; and proposals wtre printed "and
disCriUut^d,'8hox^iiig^ thff advantages of this design.
9(he sum neeessary for carrying it on, together tvith
theprofltB that were to arisd from it, were divided
tntOA certain numb^ ol^sbarets, or subscriptions, to
be purchased by persbns disposed to adventure there-
in ; and,^ttie better *to*o^rry oh the deception, the
directors evigaged to msfke very large dividends. To
such a height was th^frem^ of ino«diAate^gain car^
ned, by these delusive pwposiails, that, between the
1 4th of Aprii, when the first subscriptiioo was opened,
fdid the Sd of June t^liowilig^ when the infatuation
ivM. strongest, shares; of tffte bundled pounds contt-
Tiued to* advance .ia|>idly in price, until they were
'fiotd' for eight hundred and ninety pounds, -^rom
this* time to tbe.end of August, 'nhe* variations wene
comparatively small:^ but, in^September, the fdMiKj
of the scheme becatin^ apparent^ and ^ shares Ml to
oaa htt]iGd«ed.aH(i:riftyip6undSrby which- multitudes
.:.- of
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JjOtnfOV JLVTD ITS ^VTIRONS. SOl
of' altt raiikf were ruined, and such a scene of dis*
treas occasicned^ as can scarcely be conceived. *
The stock-jobbing specuktiong. of this company
novr' became the svbjeot of parliamentary in vesti^
gatjab,«tid various acts were passed for t^e rebef of
the BUfifer^rSyH' detail of wbich^and of all the visi^
onaiy' projects the company had -engaged' in, would
extend muf^h bet^d thck limits our work win allow:
we must ther^fere^ return to their commercial trans^
actions, whieb, without being so destructive in theiif
consequendesi, appear to have been no better con-*
ducted. '
The fitist trad^they engag^d'irt, was that of sup-
plying the Spanish West-lndleS' with negroes, of
which,' in consequence of What was called the As-
riento contmct, granted them* by the treaty of
Utredityth^y had the'exclusivfe priviteg^. But as
ft was HOC e^^ctedthat much profit could be made
by this tnide/l)Oth the ftench and PortUgueze cotni
panies, wh<y(had enjoyed' it Oft the same terms be*
fore tbetifi, having been rttined by it, they were al-
lowed, as^ai-comjpensation, to send annually a shiji
of five hUkidrtSQ tons burthen, to^ trade directly te
the Spanish We$t-lndies. Of the ten voyage.4 made
by this ai^iiual ship, they gained by only one, that '
of the Rbyal CaroKne in 1731, and w4re tosers,
mor^ or Jess, by all the rest. Their ill Success ^as
imputed* by their factors dild agents, tothe'extortioh
and oppnetekm of the Spstoish goverrraieiit ; but was
move probabty Wmg to the conduct of those very
factors ^nd agents, since in 1734, in consequence
of the repeated representations of the King of
Spain's agent »» London, coticeming the bad ma-
nagement"t)f their fectors, a general court of the
company agi^eed linanimooslyv to empower their di*
rectors to petition his majesty for permission, to dis*
^pcne of the trade and tonnage of their annual ship. '
In
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302 HISTORY ASn SU&VET Of \
In 17945 this company ondertook the Greeitftnd
vh^te-fii^bery. Of tliis, indeed^they had nomooo*
poly; but 90 long as they carried it od, noottier
British subjects appear to have engaged in it. This
speculation was as unsuccessful as the fintner. They
continued it with an annual loss for eight yeais, at
the expiration of which, when they had: sold their
ships' stores and utensils, th^ found; that the total
deficit by this tr^de, exclusive pf interest^ on their
annual advances^ amounted to upwards of one hun-
dred and seventy-seven thousand pounds*
Two years before the company embarked in the
whale-ikihery, they applied to parliament for per-
mission to divide their immense capital of upwards
of thirty-three millions, the whole of wjuch had
been lent to gov^nment ipto two equal- parts s the
one^half to be put upon the ^me footing as the
other government annuities, and not. to l^ subject
to the debts contracted, or losses incuired by the di-
rectors of the company, in the prosecution of their
mercantile projects ; the other half to remain^ ias be-
fore, trading stock, subject to those debt^ and losses.
The petition was too reasonable tobe.tH^fused,
In 1733, they again petitioned pafrhament, that
three-fourths of their trading stock might be turned
into annuity stock, and only one-fourth remain as
trading stod^, exposed to the hazards arising from
the b^ management of their directcH^. Both their
annuity and trading slocks bad by this time been
reduced two millions each ; so that this fourth
amounted only to five million, six hundred and
sixty-two thousand, seven hundred and eighty-four
pounds and a fraction. In 1748, the peace of Aix«
La-ChapeUe was concluded, wtdiout any stipulations
in point of commerce, between Great Britain and
Spain ; and as only four years of the Assiento con-
tract remained, and it was evident, thi^ Spain ^ ha<i
4 determined
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LOERDOH AND ITS ENVIROKS. 503
detevmilied not to renew^ it, at least upon terms,
which wouid have atforded any promise of advan-
tag^e tu the company, who had hitherto been losers^
by it ; it was concluded by the British court, to in-
struct her minister at Madrid^ to obtain the best
equivalent he could for the remaining part of the
conti^ct. Accordindy a treaty was entered into in
October, 17o0, by which the King of Spain engaged
to pay one hundred' thousand pounds to the com-
pany, as a compensation for all their demands and
privileges in virtue of that contract ; and thus aft
end was put to their trade with the Spanish West-
Indies.
Since that time the company has ceased in every
respect to be a trading company, and the* remainder
of its trading stock has been converted into an an-
nuity stock.
By an act of parliament passed in the year 1753,
the mans^ement of this company is vested in a go-
vernor, sub-governor, deputy -governor, and twenty-
one directors ; but no person is quali^ed to be go-
vernor, his majesty excepted, unless he is possessed,
in his own name and right, of five tliousand pounds, ,
in the trading stock : the sub-governor must have
four thousand pounds ; the deputy-governor three
thousand pounds ; and each director two thousand
pounds in the same stock.
East-India Company.
The first, or as it is called the t old East-Indiit
Company,, was established by a charter for fifteen
years from Queen Elizabeth, dated on the 31$t of
December, 1600; but for some time, the partners
seem to have traded with separate stocks, though
only in the 'Ships belonging to the company. In
1610, though : their : first charter was not expired*
King
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304f HISTORY JklSD BUmVEV OV i
King James L was prevailed upon to giant ithem a
new one, because of the ^^ profit and kSnour .wbich
this trade brought to the nation, wherefore his ma^
jesty was now induced to render the company per-
petual,*', with the usupl powers <Mf making bye«*
laws, having a common seal, &c. They had not
adopted the mode of trading under a joint stocki
but went on iu the method of several co-partner-
ships and lesser stocks; and when, in I6l9, they
commenced trade for the joint benefit, they sent but
one ship on that aK:count. At this timie. their Capi-
tal amounted to about seven hundred and forty
thousand pounds, and the shares were as low as
fifty pounds each; but notwithstanding their char-
ter had not received the sanction of parliament, it
was looked upon as sufl^ciehtly valid, and very |6w
ventured to interfere with their trade, which was in
general successful, although they experienced some
heavy losses, chiefly through the malice of the Dutch
East-India Company.
In consequence of the increased value of the
commerce with the East-Indies, Sir Thomas Rowe
was, in the year 1614, appointed by King James I.
his and the company's ambassador to the Great
Mogul, " for treating with him about an inter-
course of the commerce of England, to and from
East-India/^ This embassy, which was the first
that was invested with the royal authority from Eng-
land to that remote coi^ntry, was undertaken at the
East- India company's request and expense ; and the
ample infc)rm^ion they received from this able mi-
fiist^r; for theprotectioa of their trade^ proved the
wisdom of the choite they bad made. .
Some idea of the importance pf the company s
ffade, even in this eariy stage^ may he formedfrom
4at very ingenious treatise, pubiisbed T)y Sr Dudley
«piggs, in the year }6l^, in which itisstated> that
the
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lOKDOir AMD Its £MViftOK8. 305
the greatest talae of the exports to the EastJbdies,
in any one year, had not exceeded thirty-six thou'^
sand pounds, while the saving to the nation in the
prices of pepper, cbves, mace, and nutmegs, for
hoine consumption only, Was annually seventy
thoiisai!kd pounds : and the Value of the same spices
exported m the year preceding, had amounted to
two hundred and' eighteen thousand poutids, besides
indjjgo, calicoes, China silks, drugs^ &c. It is oib-
servable, that neither porcelain or tea are yet no-
ticed among the commodities imported by the com-
pany, but ffom the mention of China silks,- it is evi^
dent, that a iidsAe with the Chinese had oom^
menced, though indirectly.
From the same author we also learti, that the bur«
then of the ships employed in that trade, was then
equal to the largest now in the service, He says,
one of their ships was of one thousand, two hun-
dred, and ninety-three tons burtbeh ; one of on^
thousand, one hundred ; one of one thousand and
six^, and the rest Smaller ; the whole number they
had employed from the beginning was twenty-four,
of which, four had been lost.
In 1619) am attert^pt Was made to settle a trade
with China bnd Cochin-china, but without sue-.
ceks ; both the English and Dutch factors in the last
named country being massacred, under pretence
that the Dutch had a little before burned one of their
towns. The neglect of this trade was assigned by
Charles I. as one of the reasons, for granting a li-
cense in 1633 to some other persons to make a
voyage to Goa, the coast of Malabar, and also the
cosists of China and Japan. But the losses by this
adventure were so heavy, that the new company
was soon mined.
Such temporary grants, however, to others, added
to the encroachments of the Dutch East-India com-
roh. iir. . ^^ P^*^y
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306 .UISTOBV AKD SURVBV OF
paHy were so iaJMrious, to thlt ititerests of the Eng^
lish copfipany, that their tnvde.sooj^ fell, into ^ decHo-
iug state,, and in l647i appears to have been nearly
sunk ; their shares Ijeiug sold at thirty or forty per
cent loi^> and sooiqtiioes n^uch more, .
In the early part of the Protectorate, Cromwell
dissolved thi^ pompany, and threw the trade open ;
but the private traders were such losers in the end,
that they were among the most forward of the peti-
tioners for restoring the company's charter. Ac-
cordingly they were re-established in 1637, with a
joint stock of seven hundred and thirty-nine thou-
sand seven hundred and eighty-two pounds : only
fifty per cent however, being called for, their real ca-
pital amounted but to half that suo).
After the llestoration, Charles IL granted a new
charter to the company, dated the third of April,
1661, under the former name of " The Governor
and Company of ]!J>erchants of London, trading to
the East-Indies," to be governed by a governor, de»
puty-governor, and t^wrenty-four committees, since
Called directors, who were to be elected annually. By
this charter the company had not, as at present, one
transferable joint stock, but every one who was free
of the company, paid a certain sum on the fitting
out of their voyages, for which he had credit in the
company's books, and his proportionable, dividend
on the profits of each respective voyage: neither
were they an irrevocable corporation, as they might
be dissolved on three years' notice. ,
It appears from Mr. ftHexfen's discourse on trade,
published in the y^r 1 696, that '* till after the
year I67O, the importations froip the East-Indies
were chiefly drugs, salt-petre, spices, calicoes, and
diamonds : then throzvsfers^ recovers^ dt/erSy &c.
xceresenl to IwHa^ by the compam/^ for teaching the ]
Indians to please tlie European fancies." And f his
brought
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LOKi>ON AND ITS ^NTIRONS. 5,07
brought to us such an inundation of wrought silks *
and stufis of many various sorts* that our o\\^n ma-
nufactures were greatly obstructed : wherefore, long
after, the legislature found it absolutely necessary to
prohibit the wear of them at home ; and they are
BOW all re-exported.
In 1 676, the company having made considerable
profit by their trade, decreed' in a general court, that
instead of making a dividend, the profits sliould be
added to their principal stock, so as to double the
same. Thus every fifty pound share being now
made one hundred, their whole rapitai amounted to
the nominal one at their re-establishnicnt by Crom-
well.
About this time many doubts and objections were
started, whether the company could legally act as'
an exclusive company, not being sanctioned by an
act of parliament, awl these objections having pro-
voked a discussion of the advantages of the East-
India trade to the kingdom, it appeared from the
statements of the writers in support of it, that upon
a moderate computation the annual balance of the
trade, in favour of the nation, amounted to five
hundred thousand pounds. From the same source
we learn, that there still was no trade to China ;
but in I6i>l, in an answer to the complaints of the
Turkey company, given into the privy-council, they
state that *' they have made many generous,
chai]geable, and successful attempts, for obtaining
a trade to the north-east parts of India, viz. to
Siam, Cochin-China, China, and Japan/'
The legality of the company's monopoly had been
frequently disputed during the reign of Charles II.
by whom, however, they were so highly favoured,
that he granted thepi no less than five charters. In
1684, it became the subject of investigation in a
court of justice, in consequence of an action being
1 brought
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308 HisTO&T Avn suAVEVonr
brought by the East*Iiidia ceanpany agiddst oae
Sands, fpr hi^viQg fitted a ship out for India,. wittj^r .
out having obtained a licence from th^t company.
In his defence, Sands showed, that the company
was an ill^al monopoly^ cpotraiy to Ms^giwi
Charta, and several subsequent statutes, in wmci)
he was supported by Lord Chief Justice Pollexfen ;
but the kin^s prohibition agaipst the aailing .of
the ship, obhged Sands, after a year'4 suspense, to
sell it a^ the caiso at a great loss.
Similar proceedings occurred in th^ fbllowing
reigns; and after 96me endeavours, to procure a
parliamentary regulation of this trade, which were
rendered unsuccessful by the great influence of the
company, the house of commons addiiessed King
William in 1.692) to dissolve, the company at the
end of thr^ years, agreea)>le to the power reserved
to the crown in their charter. ; but without effect,
for in the course of the two foUowiog years, WiU
liam granted them three charters.
The sinister practices of the compapy with the.
ministers, in obtaining these charters from King
Wijli^m, notwithstanding the above address, and
also in endeavouring to get an act of parliament for
their legal establishment, became the subj^t of an
enquiiy iq the house of commons in the year L694,
when it appeared, that in the preceding year alone,
upwards of eighty thousand poupds had been
expended ibr secret services ; whereupon the go-<
yernor and some othe]» implicated in these trans^
actions, were committed to the Tower, and the
houfife impeached the Duke of Leed^, president of
the council, on the diune account; but the pro*
rogation of parliament put an end to their pro-
The frequent recurrence of these cQmplainta
against the company, together with their inability
to
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' -i^ymi^ ANi>''iT$ .VNYuavs. . 909
to laakefi^Qr divi4rad& for ^ev^ral yem precediog
iii^ j;ear ..l6^dy:Qi^^a«o^ bj l^iigre^ losses d[
ships' aii4*T]ehcfUPt;6ies, duri«g tk^ war with f rducey
created subh a g^a^ral dkfiij^^ m the people against
theai, that» in the apiin^ pf thi^t year, the hoiijse of
commpDis again, to^ the 9ti^» of the East-India
trade iotoVt^ii; '.serious q(>osidei^^ which so
ala9Xied the coinp^y, that they'^viow* thought it
prudent to make a proposal t^ parliament, to ad*
vanc^ seven bi^ndred thousand pounds for thepub*
licdervice^.at four percent: provided the exclusi^a
trade to India might be legally settled on them;
But^while this proposalseemed to obtain afkvonr*
aUe reception ». a number of mi^^bants, counte^p
Danced -by the chanceUof of the exchequer, oifened
to advance two millionB, at eigb^ per cent, on coii^
dition that the trade should be settled exdlusively
OD.theni{;. but with a proviso, that the subacilbers
shduid not bis obliged to trade on a joinjk stoc^ un^.
less they afterwan^ desiced to be incofipomted^ in
which case a charter should be granted them.
Yhe. last proposal was accepted* notwithstanding
the old qompany's offer to opeo^ subscriptions fov
two millions ; and an act of parliament was passed
for carrying it into effect, by which the' new sub^
scribere^ who were called ** The general soeiety of
traders to the j^st^lndies,'' were impowered to
trade thither, either directly tliemselves, or to license
others in their stead ; but so as not to trade anniu
ally for mere than the ayibunt of their respective
shares. It was, however, provided, that the old
company should be allowed to trade to India until
Michaehnas, 17OK * -
No sooder was this new company erected, than
gFeat difficulties and objections were raised against
their proceeding to trade during the old company's
remaining
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SIO HISTORY -AND SUJITEY ^F
remaining three years ; the* latter being in possessicii
of the forts, and of the privileges granted in India
by the Moguls, &c: and even at the expiration of
the three years, they were at liberty to dispose of
their forts, factories, settlements, &e. at their own
price, and, if they chose it, to foreigners. Besides^
the old company^ bad subscribed three bimdred and
fifteen thousand pounds into the new stock, in the
name of their treasurer; whereby they possessed
above one-seventh part of the whole cajHtal of two
millions^ To confirm this possession, they, in the
next session of parliament, obtained an act, import-
ing, that in consideration of the old company hav-
ing directed Mr. Dubois, their treasurer, to sub-
scribe the above sum in trust for them, the said
compmy was to continue a corporation : thus esta-
blishing two rival companies.
Indeed, in all this business there was a strange
jumble of inconsistencies, contradictions, and diffi-
culties, not easily to be accounted for ; and a coa-
lition of the two companies seemed to be the only
effectual remedy for these absurdities. In fact, their
contentions were carried to such a height, that at
length the public tranquillity became endangered ;
and, in 1702, the coalition was effJected by an in-
denture tripartite, to which Queen Anne was the
third party. By this agreement, the old company
purchased as much of the stock of the new, at par,
as gave them an equal moiety of the whole capital,
except twenty three thousand pounds retained by
some separate traders. The new company paid to the
old, half the difference between the values of their
respective dead stocks. * The trade was to be carried
on by each comp^my separately for seven years ;
after which, all trade to be carried on on the joint
account, and the company to be called, **, The
United
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LDHPOK AHD ITS ENVflONS^ 311
fJnited Compahy of Merchants of England trading
to the Easit Indies/* Thus a prudent stop was put
to much contention*
This arrangement receired the sanction of par-
liainent in 170S, when an act was passed for
prolonging the term of Iheir exclusive trade, from
Michaelmas, 17ll> to Lady-day, 1796. By the
f^ame act the capital of the company was auraiented
from two millions to three millions two nundred
tliousand pounds, in consequence of a new loan
of one million two hundred thousand pounds to the
government; and the interest of the whole debt
owing to the government was fixed at five per cent.
instesKl of eight, as it had formerly been. *
X To complete all that is needful to be known con-
cerning the union of these two companies, it must
b^ observed, that the following regulations took place
in consequence of it, viz«
For every hundred pound, old stock, there was
given one hundred pounds eight shillings and teit
pence, of the United Company^s stock.
A call of twenty-five and a half per cent, was
made on the proprietors of the old company, for
enabling them to be joined to the united one.
The remaining effects of the old comimny, and
• the debts owing to them, were vested in trustees for
the payment of their outstanding debts, and after-
wards for the benefit of the proprietors of the old
company, who were so at the time of the union.
Since this time, the company's charter has been
repeatedly renewed, and, being freed from all com-
petitors, and fully established in the monopoly of
the English commerce to the East-Indies, it has car-
ried on a successful trade ; and .in consequence of
its extensive territorial acquisitions, which are now
added to the dominions of the crown, its history has
become so intimately blended with that of the whole
kingdom,
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3t2 itIdtdttV AH0 MTRfsir df . ;
kingdom^ that, to follow it farther jju detail* would
&r exceed our liibits. Suffice it, therefore, to ob*
serve, that, since the year 1784, the civil aod miln
tary governmeot of India has been subjected to the
auperintendance- of a board of controul, consisting
of the secretary of state, the chancellor of the ex« .
chequer, and seven other privy-counsellors, nomi^
nat^ by his majesty. The ooonnercial affairs of the
company are, however, managed by a court of
twenty-four directors, chosen for four years ; six of
whom are changed annually. Out of these directors
are chosen committees, who have the particular in-
spection of different brsmches of the company's bu-
siness ; such as the committees of correspondence^
buying, treasury, warehouses, shipping, accounts,
private trade, &c.
The shipping chieQy employed in the commerce
from England to the East-Indies, belcmgs to persona
who build them purposely for letting them out, on
freight, to the company; for^ by their bye-Iavns, no
vessel is to be hired wherein any director is con-
cerned, directly or indirectly, either as whole or
part owner.
Xfl<^ vast amount of the importations of this com-
pany, may be judged of by the number of extensive
warehouses employed for receiving the cargoes of
their homeward bound ships. There are, at present,
twenty-six, and more are in contemplation. Some
of them are well-built modem buildings, oocupying
a considerable space of ground, and worthy of notice,
as conveying an idea of the immensity of the trade
of their owners.
Hudson's-Bay Company*
The IIudson's-Bay Company derives its origin
from the reports of two Frenchmen, who, having
travelled
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l^KDON AMD ITS ENTIAOKS. 013
travellcid into the countiy of the Ec^uimaux^ and ob«
served what a valuable trade might be carried oa
there, represented the matter to the French govern*
meat; but receiving no encouragement in their owa
couatry, they came over to England, and communis*
cated their observations to Prince Rupert, and soms
other persons of distinction^ seventeen of whom en*
£aged in the trade^ and sent out two vessels, in 1669^
for that purpose* The accounts. they received from
Iheir ^ents being favourable^ these noble adventurers
obtained a charter of incorporation from Kine Charles
II. dated May the seconci, 1670; by which an ex-
clusive trade to this bay was granted to them, by the
tiame of *• The Governor and Company of Adven-
turers of England, tradii^ to Hudson's Bay/' They
^ere also to have perpetual succession, a common
«eal, and the power of making bye-laws ; with the"
prQ|»erty of all the island^ and lands within their lU
mitSy not possessed by any^ther nation, which were
to be called Rupert's land, and to be holden of th^
manor of East Greenwich, in free and common soc-
The capital fund of the coibpany was origi-*
ten thousand five hundred pounds.
are possessed of several forts on the west
the bay, vi^. Prince of Wales's Fortj upon
Churchill River^ Nelson, New Severn, and Albany^
'which are garrisoned by one hundred and eighty-six
men. In July, 178S, the French took these forts,
and havmg destroyed them and the settlements, &e«
evacuated the place in September following; sinqe
fwhich time, they have baea agpun erected by ihe
4D(»npany.
The commerce of this company, small as it is, af-
Jbida immense {m>fit to the members, and maqy ad-«
vantages to the state; for the commodities exchanged
arith the Indians, for their peltry, ariei all manuiactured
In Britain^ and, as the Indians anp npt v«ry nice in
WQL. 111. ss their
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^i4 BISTORT A50 SCRTEY OF
their choice, those articles are sent, which, in the
mercantile phrase, are drugs at home. On the otiier
hand, the skins and furs brought back, enter largely
into our manufactures, and" aflord materials foir
trading with many nations of Europe to great advan-
tage. These circumstances prove, incontestibly, the.
immense benefit that would result to Great-Britain
by extending this trade ; which might easily be done,
since the company do not appear to possess such an
exclusive right to it as to prevent others from cm-
barking in it,
Sierra-Leoue Company.
Sierra-Leone, from whence this company derive*
its name, is part of the west coast of Africa, lying
between Cape Verga and Cape Tangrin. A^ consi-
derable river of the same name, enters the ocean on
this coast, in latitude 8^ north, and longitude 12«» 30'
west, the mouth of which is nine miles wide, but itft
source is unknown. The climate and soil* of the
tract of country, on both sides of this river, appear to
be the most favourable to European constitutions of
any in Africa, and, in the opinion of many, would, if
properly cleared and cultivated, be equal in salubrity^
and superior in produce, to any of the islands in the
West-Indies. These advantages had induced the
first African Company to establish one of their fac-
tories at Sierra-Leone ; though they did not select
the most healthful situation, having, for the benefit
of a spring of good water, fixed their rosidence in a
low valley, which is frequently overspread with mistt
and noisome vapours, while, on the summits of the
hiils, whither they might easily have conveyed the
water, the air is cleftr and serene.
Being ^hinly inhabited, Sierrd^Leone appeared t«
some benevolent gentlemen in Eogland, to be m
. , place
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lipKDON ANP ITS ENYIROliS. 315
^I^pe, where, without incommoding the natives^
a suiigcient. quantity of gr9und might be bought,
on which to i^ttle a great number of free negroes/
who, in 1776,.$ warmed in London^ in idleness an4
want. About four hundred of these miserable ob-
jocte, together with sixty whites, mostly women of
loo^e character, were accordingly sent out to Sierra^
Leone, at the expense of government. Necessity,
it was hoped, would make ihem industrious and or-
<lerly ; ,and Captain Thompson of the navyi who.*
conducted them, obtained a grant of land to his ma-
jesty, from King Tom, a neighbouring chief, which
was afterwards confirmed by Naimbanna, the king
of the country. The colony, however, soon went
to min, but the land which they occupied, about
twenty miles s<]uare, his majesty was enabled to
grant to anothei colony, founded on better princi-
ples,, and f^r a nobler pur|>ose ; which, though not
..solely commercial, was blended with an endeavour
to establish a new branch of trade. .
The . most intelligent members of the society,
who liad lalioured so strenuously to procure the
abolition of the slave trade, concluding that the na«;
tives of Guinea would reap very little benefit from
the attainment of their object, unless they should be
taught the.priuciples of religion, and the arts of civil
life, which alone can render them really free, con-
ceived the plan of a colony, to be settled at Sierra-
Leone, for the purpose of civilizing the Africans, by
maintaining a friendly intercourse with thcin, aud
a commerce. in everything but men. This plan
cpuld not be carried into effect but at a groat ex-
pense. Subscriptions were therefore opeue<l, and a
6Um deemed sufficient was speedily raised. Nothing
now appeared to be wantmg, to give full effect to
their benevolent design, but the sanction of the kv
jjislature; an act of parliament was theiVfore ob-
tained,
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$1$ ursimttv AKD nntvEv or
lained, by vrhich the subscribew were hicdrpoeMM
under the denonainatioii of ^^ The SieiT»-L(iM)iie Com*^
party;'' and, in parsuance of it, they faeU their fiiM
iBeeting at Lond(H), in October, 179 1«
The leodipg object of the company wM, to sub*
tftitiite for that disgraceful traffic, which ]m suMMed
teo long, a fair co^[lIQl^^^ with Afiica, and nil the
benefits which might be expected to attend it^ Wfom
tfiis connexion considerable advantages appeared
Wtehf to riesult tp Great Britain, pot only in obtain-*
ing several commodities cheaper* but also in opening
0 market for British manufactures, to the increasing^
demands for which it is impossible to ^ttsign aoT
Jimits : while Africa was Kkely to derive the still
inore important blessingB of religion, mcHBli^, mid
|[;itilization.
To accomplish these purposes it was necessary
for the company to possess a tract of land^ not cmly
as a repository for their goods, but which the Afri^p
cans mij8;ht cultivate in peace, secure frc^ the ra«
vages of the slave tmde. It had 1i>een aseertanied
beyond a doubt, that the climate and soil of this
quarter of the gbbe, were admirably suited to the
growth of sugar, spices', coffee, cotton, indigo, rice,
iand every other species of tropical produce, The
c(impany proposed to teach the natives to raise these
articles, and to set them the example, by a spirited
cultivation on its own account; to which end, among
pther measures, an experieqced WestJndia cultiva-
tor was engaged to commence a sugar plantatioii.
At the same time, directions were given to the com*
mercia) agents to use every exertion in promoting i^
trade in the present produce of Africa.
Things being thus settled upon the most bcnevo*
lent principles, the ships sailed with the British co^
lonists, to whom, ip March, 1792, one diousand one
hpnc|red ^nd thirt^«ope blafks fron^Nova^cotia were
Added,
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JLOITDON ilHD Iti BNTIROHS. 517
The natire chtefii being reconciled to the
plan« and being made to understand its beneficent
(L^ndency toirards their people, the colony proceeded
to build a Um n, to be oained Free Town, en a dry
a9d eieirAfed 9pot» on the south side of the river. It
eMmted 6f Bbont four hundred houses, each having
a amall piece of ground annexed, for raiviag vegeta^
bieft-, disposed in nine streets, intersected by three
ao$^ streets, all eighty feet in width, except the
prnicipal street, iff hich contained ail the public build-
ings, and was one hundred and sixty feet broad*
In the first year, the col<mists suffered greatly from
the raitty season, agamst which they had not had
Ifenie to provide a sufficient protection; but after
Aat» they in a great measure recovered their health
mtd spkitSt and proceeded with alacrity in executing
we various purpioses of their settlement Before the
^d of two years, from the institution of the colony.
Older and industiy had begun to show their effects
in an increasing prosperity. The woods had been
eut down, to the distance of three miles, all round
the fown ; by which means the salubrity of the set*
dement had been promoted, and sickness diminished^
The fame of the colony had spread not only along
tile whole western coast of Africa, but also to parts
fer distant from the coa^t: embsussies of the most
friendly nature had been received from kings and
princes, several hundred miles distant; and the na^
tives had begun to send their children, with full coDp
/idence, to the schools established in the colony, to
be instructed in reading, writing, and accounts^, and
to be bfought up in the Christian religion. In ^
word, it was not without grounds, that the oompany
looked forward to the period, when, by the influence
of their measures, the ccHitinent of Africa should be
rescued from a state of ignorance and miseiy, and
exhH>it the agreeable picture of Jqiowledge and cit
viliz^t^pn^
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813 HISTORY AVD 8UKV£Y OV
vilizatioD, of peaceful industry and domestic com-
fort.
But their hopes were disappointed, at least for a
time. At the commencement of the late war, the
French convention authorized one of their agents to
write to the directors, requesting a full account of
the design of the institution, aiid the names of the
ships employed in their service; and to assure them
of the good wishes of the French government to so
Boble an undertaking. How completely that govern^
ment fulfilled its premise is very generally known.
Having, in Eurojte, vindicated the rights of men, by
the violation of every principle of truth and justice,
' they determined, to use the same means, to give light
and liberty to the Africans ; and that they carried tfieir
determination into the fullest effect in their power,
may be proved from their treatment of this colony, i
On the 28th of September, 1794, they arrived in
the river, with a fleet of eight sail of armed vessels,
disguised as English ships, and carrying the British
flag; nor did the unfortunate inhabitants, who might
be considered as wholly defenceless against such a
force, discover the deception, until the town was
fired upon, and several persons were killed and
wounded, even after a flag of truce was displayed on
the governor's house. In the afternoon they landed,
and, finding the town nearly deserted, began to pluQ-
der. What they did not want they burnt, or threw
into the river. They killed all the cattle, and every
H^imal they could meet with, even cats and dogs;
and continued these proceedings for upwards of a
week. At length, after having destroyed all the pub^
lie and private buildings of the Europeans, and in-
flicted the greatest hardships on them they could
Buffer, short of the loss of life, these marauders took
.their departure on the l^th of October, leaving the
town «-people in the most dreadful situation ; with.
4 out
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LONDON AND ITS EKT1R0NS. - S19
out provisions, clothes, medicines, houses, or furni-
ture, and, but for the assistance of their friendsi
both natives and Europeans, every individual must
have perished.
Thus the friends of the whole human race per-
formed their promise of '^ spreading light and li-
berty through the world/^ The Sierra-Leone co-
lony was established to abolish slavery, to enlighten
the Africans, and to render them virtuous, rational,
free and happy ; and the chaihpions of the rights of
man, destroyed that colony with every circumstance
of wanton cnielty. But though this event ha0
thrown a considerable damp upon the proceedings
of the company, there is still reason to hope, that
their endeavours will be ultimately successful.
By the act for incorporating this company, they
are to be under the management of a chairman, de-
puty-chairman, and eleven directors, to be chosen
annuafly by the proprietors. They are also empow-
ered to have perpetual succession, and a common
seal, to make bye-laws, to purchase land9> and to
trade upon a joint stock.
The above are the principal commercial companies
at present subsisting; but there are some others,
which though not in strict terms, " commercial,"
are so connected with the commerce of London, as
to require that they should be noticed here : these
are the Bank, the West-India, London, and East-
India dock companies.
The Bank of England.
It may be considered extraordinary that, in a na-
tion abounding so much in w^lth and commerce,
no national bank, capable not only of supporting its
own credit by a paper cuwency, for the convenience
of comutnerce, but also of assisting the national cre-
dit,
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SSO HinoET Aff9 suRVsy or
dlit, should hare ^>een estaUished before the yur
1694.
Mr. ?inili8in Pateisoo^ the prajector of the Bonk
of England, obtierviDg the difficulty of raising the
annual supplies for the service of tbie stale, hra ta^
boured from the year I69I1 to obtain the incorpo*
ration of a number of persons, well affected to the
government) who, on being invested with eer|tain
poweis and privileges, would advance a laige sum,
oy WW of loan, for the pubKc exigencies. At this
time the ministry were so distressed to raise the an«
nual supplies, as to be compelled to solicit the
common-council of London, to advance one or two
hundred thousand pounds, at a time, on the first
payments of the land-tax ; and even this sum was
procured by applications being made by the com-
mon^councilmen, from door to door through th«
city.
This prcject naturally experienced the opposi^
tion of the monied men, lest it should, as it cer*
tdnlydid soon after, diminish Xheir exorbitant gains
from the public distresses; Sot even eight per cent,
on the land-tax, besides additional premiums,
though payable within th6 year, did not satisfy
them : while other anticipations of the public reve-
nue were much higher ; the interest, premiums, and
discount, running up to twenty, thirty, and even
forty per cent.
At length, however, after long debates in tha
privy-council, on the expediency and efficacy of the
measure, a bill was brought into parliament and
passed, in 1644) for laying a duty on tonnage, &c.
and also to empower their Majesties, King WilKam
and Queeii Mary, to take subscriptions from such in^
dividuals, as should be willing to advance one mtl*
lion two hundred thousand pounds upon the ore*
dit of the rates so imposed, and to incorporate them
by
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%jmV9n AVD ITS SNTIK019S. 931
hf ^ mmit of ^ The Governor and Company of
the Btak of Engiand,^^ with a yearly allowance of
OQe htittdrtel thousand pounds, viz. ninety^six thou-f
aand poomk for interest, at eight p^ cent, and four
thouMpd pounds as an allowance for chaises of ma-
nagement. The iuqd to be redeemable af&r the Ist
of August, 170i,.upoD a years notice, and payment
of the. principal, and then t^e corporation to cease.
Ja consequence of this act of parliament, the sub-
soriptions for the on& million t^o hundred thousand
poiuds were completed in ten days time, and
twenty-five per cent, paid down: and the charter of
mcorpoiation wasexedu^d on the 97th of July, \69*.
By this charter, the company is put under the ma-
nagameot of a governor, deputy governor, and twenty-
hur directors, to be elected isnnually, thirteen or more
to constitute a court, of which the governor or deputy
governor to be always one. They are to have perpe-
tual «ucoessioo, a common seal, and the other usual
fommm ojT ccvporations ; but must not bonrow money
Qodef their tmamon seal, without the authority of
pttlittnent. • They -are not to trade, or suffer any per-
son m trust for them to trade, in any goods or mer-
ebandin; but they may deal in bills of exchange, in
bisying or sdling bullion, and foreign gdld and silver '
coin, iuu They are also empowered to lend money
oa pawns pr> pledges, and to sell those which shall
not be fedeemed at the time agreed on, or within
tltfe^' months after ; but this is a power which the
owpomtipn has made liwle or no use of.
* Various oadsascontribated to occasion great difii^
calty and distress to this infant bank, among which,
tibe iMici^cy <tf the funds ifor the annual sup-.
idiesy tni^* b^ oensidered as the moist prominent ^;
ntfdto tlM may %e' added the bad state of the silver^
coimig6,Whieh*4bey biHl taken ^t the nominal valQ<^^
- t9i.. III. T t in
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3i2 nistoRY AND smiYEv or .
in exchange for their own notes pdydbiie oaSemikd i
and, on the re*K;oina^e of that moDey, did Rotrnkleivc^
enough from the mint to ^answer the daiiy deniand
on them: so tha^ in the year I696, their cash dM^
were at a discoun;t of fifteen or twenty per emit and,
in the tlien well known newspaper, called the Post*
man, of the 29d of June, \697i id the ibllowii^
paragraph: ^' Bank notes were yesterday between
thirteen and fourteen percent discount/' Yet^in
a few months after, by the re^coinage being com*
pleted, and by a second, or engmftment aubsoiptioii
of Exchequer tallies and orders, &c. authodzed by
an act of parliament passed in thatywr, the credit ^
the Bank was quite restored. By the same act^ the
term qf their charter was enlarged,and it was provided
that not more than two-thirds of the directors should
be re-chgsen at tl>e annual election. > <
. To explain this sudden change in the afiaiia of
the Bank, it may be necessary to observe^ thatdw^
Hig^the re-cqinage of the .silver j aU great dealiogaweie
transacted by tallies, bank bills^ and notesi aiid pi^ier
credit supplied the.want of current cash. .The Kx*
chequer tallies, owing to the backwai^neas in the
payment of them, were at forty or fifty per cent, disk
count; 4md hence the monied men ne^bcted trade^
and turned usurers. To remedy these levils,. and re*
store the public credit, the above Act of p^ament
was devised, which, at the same time that it in*
creased .the capital of the Bank, b^ enahtogMt tia
take in these tallies ^ a n^w subscription^ provided
a fund iot paying them off byaniuial inatidments,
and rescued them out of the hands of the stodD'
jobbers : and a {»oyision being also made for iKsspiiig*
up. the payments of government to. tbe *Biink> ^e
Q^it of the corporatiQn was restiMed^rtod £xcW^
qwer. tailing .were bought at ooe Jmndr^ atid tw^ve*
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LOVBWI AND ITS- ENVIRONS. 393
per cent, tb he given in payment for the new sub-
serifillon^^ by which great estates were raised in a
short timet
The payment of these Exchequer tallies had re^
Sliced the fcapital of the Bank to its original amount^
when, in the year 1706, it was again increased by
the temporary addition of one million one thousand
one hundred and seventy-one pounds, the value 6f
one million five hundred thousand pounds in £x*
chequer bills, at four and half per cent, which the
Bao^ undertook to circulate; and, by the same act^
it waa to remain a corporation until the redemption
of all the said Exchequer bills. This is the first
instance of the circulation of government securities
thm:^ the medium of the Bank, who, by this mea-
sure, connected themselves immediately with the
government, and have ever since maintained the
connection, by taking such ^nirities, from time to
time, on moderate terms, until, in consequence of
these various additions, their capital is increased to
upwards of eleven millions and a half.
The credit of the Bank experienced another trial
in 1708,' when, on occasion of an apprehended inva-
sion by f^nce, in support of the Pretender, the de-
mand, or run, as it is termed, upon the Bank, was so
great, that they were obliged to make a call of twenty
per cent, upon their capital, which, with the offer of
considerable advances from some of the principal
nobility, enabled them to surmount that difficulty.
And so little was their credit injured by this event,
that, in the following year, when an act was passed
for enabling them to double their capital, the whole
sum, amounting to upwards of two millions two
hundred thousand pounds, was subscribed within
four hours, and near a million more would have been
iubficribod had there keen room for it.
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. In 1711 » a clduse was iotroduced iatoitaii Mt lor
enabling and obliging the Bank of £n^liui4' >()> es*
change Exchequer bills for ready money, .by wludl
it was provided, that no peiaoft dioidd be a dvector
of the Bank and of the East faicUa Copupany at te
same time*
Until the year 17^9, the cash notes of the Bmk
were all issued for sums amountiag.to twenty pounds
or upwards; but in that year w iimiaiial scaroity ot
gold and silver prevailed, arisiog fiom the qumtily
of specie taken out of the country to pay troqMi in
Germany and America; in consequence wherao^
the Bank issued notes for fifteen*^ pounds an4 ten
pounds each, which proved a great accommodation
to the pubhc. In the year 1790, notes of five pemds
were put in circulation, and in Maix;h, 1797, an act
of parliament was passed to legalize smaller notes^
when those of one and two pounds were issued.
In the same session <^parliament»an aet was pasoed
Sot limiting the cash payments of the Bafik, previous
to which, they were required to keep aauffidentanm
of ready money, not only to answer the common^but
^so any extraordinary demand upon them* Whatever
money they have by them, over and above the sum
supposed necessary for these purposes,; is employed
in what may be called the trade of the company;
that is to say, in discounting bills of exdiangC) bi:^.
ing, bullion and government securities^ '&c. The
amount of the ready cash necessary to be reserved to
meet the demand for cash notes and credit of ac-
counts, has been frequently the subject of coogectare:
for such it must ever remain to the world. TUs may
perhaps be termed the fair and reasonable secret of
banking, which should never be enquired into, with-
out there should arise a reasonable suspicion of fiaud
or misconducJ:; for it is a politifial observatioii af
long
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loog ma^^tt^t 9veii powerful jrtates asd m^
naichieeroften subsist more by conunon fsaae or c^
moQ, than by re^l strength or ability : and this ob-
servation is. Oiuch more applicable to banks of ail
descriptions, and to most of the great commercial
societiea^ whose intemal condition, circumataDces and
pro^ ought not to be the atilgect of public and i».
nute investigation, while tbey are punctual in tbdf
transactions, ainoe, without danger to their creditom,
th^ laay not be alike prosperous at all times.
In its present state, the stability of the Bank of
En^and is equal to that of the British goremtnent:
ail that it has advanced to. the public musi: be lost
before ita craditoia can austahi any injuryl No oAer
banking company can be established in Engknd hw
theaothority of parKsnnfent, nor can any pi:ivate bank
consist of idore than six membeta^ It acts, oot only
as an ordinary bank, but as a gieat eng^ie of stale;
lecaTMg and paying the greater part of the annuities
which ans due to Aie orediteNrs of the public, circus
ktiBig Excheipier bills, andadvancibg to goreramea^
the annnai amoun('Of the hoid and nmlt taxes, which
are fteqoently not paid up till some years after, ik
likewise has, upon several difierent occasions, sups-
ported the credit of.the principal mercantile bouses
in England, and sometunes those of Hambui^h and
Holkmd ; and, in one instance, is said to have ad-
vanced a million six hundred thousand pounds, prin^
cipally in bullion, within a week.
in the year 1781, Uie last act of parliament for
continuing the charter of the Bank, was pasaedf by
which the term is prolonged nntill the year 1813;
after which it may be dissolved, upon twelve months
notice, and repayment of the whole of the public
dd[>t owing to that body; but this is an event not likely
to happen, and the corporation may therefore be con*'
sidered as perpetual, though it will necessarily require
future
Digitized^yVjOOQlC
future aMs of parliament to give a l^alatri#8aQctk>n
to its continuance. ' ♦ » . .
The West-India Dock Cbmpany.
The dodcs described p. ISQ^ of this volume, have
beeb formed at the expense of two companies, incor-
pfMtjad by dififerent acts of parliament Of these,
the West-India Dock Compimy was first established,
the act for that purpose havmg been passed ut Julj^
1799 * It is a joint-stock company, the capital of
which was originally five hundr^< thousand. pounds,
but with a power to increase it to six hundr^ thou*
sand pounds, with the consent of Ae nug^rity of the
subscribers, whose shares are transferraUe.
All' ships returning fvom the West4ndies, or hav*
iDg West-India produce on board, mu6t be unloaded
in the docks belonging to this company, under a
penalty of one hundred pounds: but a power is
vested in the Commissioners of tbeCuttomB to di»*
pense with this law^ iii the event of the docks being
/SO full as to be incapable of i^eodving the whole <^
the homeward-bound trade. The outward-bound
vessels must also be loaded, here, under th^ same pe*
nalty: .
The- company i^ under the direction ora ohair«-
man, deputy chairman, and nineteen directors; eight
of whom, viz. four aldermen and four oomnKm-
council-men, are appointed by the city; the other
thirteen are ohbsen by the company; and the quali*
fication for a director, is the actual ppssession, in his
own right, of two thousand pounds stock. Five di-
' rectors go out annually, in rotation.
This ,comj>any is invested with the usual powers
of corporations, with this exception, however, that
their bye-laws are to be approved of by the L^rd
Chaace^Uor, the two chief justices, and the Chief Ba»
roa
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LOKPOor Am m eittxeohs. 997
fom of ttnJBsdMfufer, or aone one of tbtm, bdbre
tbey cafi'fae curied into ^fecL " •
The London Dock Company:
The proprietors of this company were incorporated
by an act of parliament passed in June, 1800, under
the denomination of'' The London Dock Company,^
with a capital joint-stock, which must not exceed
one miUion two hundred thousand pounds ; and are
empowered to make wet docks, and to purchase lands,
&c. for that purpose, within the parishes of St. B6-
tolph, Aldgate; St. John, Wapping; St. George, Mid-
dlesex; and St. Paul, Shadwell.
The government of it is in a chairman, deputy
chairman, and twenty-four directors, of whom the
lord mayor for the time being must be one, in virtue
of his office as conser\'ator of the river Thames.
The East-India Dock Company.
This company was incorporated by an act of par-
liament passed in July, 1803, for the purpose of
making docks within the parishes of St/Dunstan,
Stepney, and Bsomley St Leonard^ for the reception
of the ships employed in the service of the East-
India Company, which are prohibited from unfead-
ing elsewhere^ except in Long Reach, for lessening
ite draught ofi water, under a penalty of five hundred
pounds. There. is, however, a similar power given,
lo the Commissioners of the Custpms, in case these
docks should be full, aa is given by the. act for esta-
blishing the West-India JDock Company. Outward
booad ships must load either in these docks, or
bek>w Limehouse-creek, under a penalty of two
hundred pounds.
• 4 . ' There
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f.lUr«^4tf6 thirteen AnetaB^tyf ^'crtk||i^ f<Mir
<^ whom must be diratitbiB/af the fiH^IaiQia C^hk-
pany; and tbe other nine, three of whom go out in
rotation annually^ must each be poss^ssecU in his
Qwn ri^ht^of two thousandpounda in the company 's
ftopli;, and must alsQ be either a director of the East-
India Company, or an agent, husband, or consignee
vf, or posseted of a share, of the value of five thou-
^nd pounds, in some ship actually in jthe employ of
that company.
Tlie' capital stock of this company is limited to
three hundred thousand pounds.
The docks belonging to this company are a short
distance below the ^VestJndia Docks, and, should
tKey be conpiplet^ in time, shall be described in the
Appendix.
We cannotclose this sketch of the commercial
history of Lk>ndon, without noticing the custom of
insurance upon ships and goods, which was intro*
duc^d into mode^ co^fnerce, by tbe London mer*
chants, in the sixteenth century.
It is asserted, that the practice waft used by the
Romansy and that it originated under Qaudios Coe-
aat; and the sea laws of Oleron creat of it as far back
a» 1 194: it is, however, certain, tfaaC it had been so
long discontinued as to have been f(Mrgottem when it
wa9 brouj^ht inio us^ by the English, about the y^ar
I06O, when an ofiice for that purpose, tbe fisst on
itecord; was held in Lombard-stveet. lUs is evident
from Guicci^rdini's Description of the Netheriands ;
who, after having given an account of the extensive
eommo^e betWec^n the .Nedierlanda aind Eaglaml^
sttys,- ^^^ Neither of which countries could pdesibJ^ dis-*
penae ^ilh this their vast mutual oointnerds'; of
which ih^iBerchaiits on both sides nt« so sensible,
that they have Jallm info a way of iMUfing their
merchandize
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LONDON AND ITS KNYlftaHS. St9
fnercbandiee from losses atsea, by a joint confribu-
tiim:'^ which is a strong proof, that the custom was
new to the merchants of that period. And that it
was in iise in England somewhat earlier than on the
continent, may be reasonably inferred from Malynes,
who, in his Lex Mercatoria, says, *^ And whereas
the meetings of merchants in London were held in
Lombard-street^ so called because certain Italians of
Lombardy kept there a pawn*house, or Lombard,
long before the Royal Exchange was built, all tbe
policies of insurance at Antwerp, which then were,
and now (1633), yet are made, do make mention
that it shall be, in all things concerning the said as-
surances, as was accustomed /o be done in Lombard^
street J m London; which is imitated . also in other
places of the Low Countries/^
In 1601, we have the first statute for regulating in-
surances; the preamble to which states the advantages
arising to merchants from the practice, and recites,
that, ^* Whereas heretofore such assurers have used
to staAd so justly and precisely upon ther credits, as
few or no controversies have arisen thereupon ; >and,
if any have grown, the same have, from timb to
time, been ended and ordered by certain grave and
discrtet merchants, appointed by the Lord Mayor of
London ; until of late years, that divers persons have
withdrawn themselves from that arbitrary course, and
have sought to draw the parties assured to seek their
monies of every several assurer, by suits commenced
in her raajestjps courts, to their great charges and
delays/^ It wf^ therefore now enacted, that the lord
chancellor shodld appoint a standing yearly commis-
sion, to consist of the Judge of the Admiralty, the
Recorder of liOnclon, two doctors of the civil law,
two common lawyers, and eight merchants; any five
•f whom to have power to determine all causes on
VOL. Ill, V V policies
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S30 HISTORY AUD SUET£Y OF
polioies of assurance in a summary way, and to meet
weekly, at the office of insurance, on the west side
pi the Royal Exchange, for the execution of their
commission, without fee or reward.
The mode in which the business of this office w«8
conducted is not now known; it is, however, pro*
bable, that more than one existed prior to 1627,
when Charles I. granted a monopoly for nuiking and
r^stering all manner of assurances, &c. made up<Hi
any ships, goods, or merchandize, in the Royal Ex-
change, or other places within the city of London.
Among the schemes produced in the year 1720,
which proved so fertile in projects and bubbles,
were several for insuring ships and merchandize,
only two of which were successful, viz. the Royal
Exchange and London Assurance Companies; both
of which, in pursuance of an act of parliament,
passed a»few days before, were incorporated by char-
ters from King George I. dated on the 34th of June,
in that year : each corporation having undertaken to
. pay three hundred thousand pounds towards th^
discbarge of the civil list debts ; btit, in consideration
of the difficulties they laboured under, part of this
sum was remitted to each, by an act passed in the
following year ; when they also received other char-
ters to enable them to insure houses and goods
against fire, which is now their principal occupation ;
for though th^ir first charters were exclusive, as to
corporations, they were not ^ as to individuals.
The prevailing mode of effecting insurances, at pre-
sent in use, is to employ a broker, who procures
subscriptions from a sufficient number of indivi-
fluals, to cover the sum insured; on payment of a
premium, which varies according to the circum-
stances of the case. The subscribers are known by
|)y the name of l/nderwritets, and, from the division
•;•: • \" . ' • pf
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, 331
of the amount insured among so many, it is consi-
dered less subject to the misfortunes or'faiiure of
the insurers, than when the whole is taken by one
person or corporation ; though many well informed
merchants prefer a public company to private in-
surers.
► «
Chap, xxxiv.
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332. MinOXY AMP SUBVEY 9W
CHAP, rscxiv.
Of the Ecclesiasticql Government of the City of Londmu
— Extent of th^Diocese. — Privileges and Duties of the
Bishop and other spiritual Officers, — Ancient State of
the Parish Priests. — Annual Stipends settled on them in
lieu of Tythes, — Number of Parish Churches, and other
religious Ijistitutions, formerly, — -TAc Title of Saint
ad&d to the Name qf the Church.^^Bills of Mortality.
We have already shown, in Book L Chap. 11.
that the Christian religion was introduced into Bri-
tain, and that London was a bishop's see, before the
Romans abandoned it, although the Pagan worship
of the Saxons appears to have supplanted Christianity
in the interval between that event and the conversion
of the latter people, which is attributed to Austin,
or Augustine the monk, a missionary from Pope Gre-
gory, who, in 604, constituted Mellitus«a bishop,
and sent him to preach among the £ast Saxons, of
whose kingdom I^ndon was, at that time, the capi-
tal, and it has ever since remained the chief city of
the see.
This diocese, which has never experienced any
alteration, being formed of the ancient kingdom of
the East Saxons, is in the province of Canterbury, and
is composed of the counties of Middlesex, Essex, and
part of Hertfordshire. It is governed by a bishop,
who is assisted by a dean, precentor, chancellor, trea-
surer, five archdeacons, thirty canons or prebendaries,
twelve petty or minor canons, six vicars choral, a
sub-dean, and other inferior officers.
In common with all the bishops of the realm, the
Bishop of London has the power of holding a court
in his owii diocese, for the trial and punishment of
* *»- spiritual
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LOMDOV AND US ENVIRONS. 333
spiritual offences, in which he may either sit as judge
bifnself. or depute his power to a chanceiior, suiira-
gan, or other officer. The bishops' courts, therefore,
though held by. the king's authority, are not properly
to be accounted the king's courts, since none of the
judges possess this privilege, neither are writs from,
them issued in the name of the king, but of the
bishop.
In {precedence, the Bishop of London ranks next
after the two archbishops, and is stiled, in some of
the old statutes, Primus JBaro Regniy the ecclesiasti-
cal barons taking precedence of all the temporal ba-
rons* It is also the privilege of tliis diocese, not to be
suliject to the visitation of the Archbishop of Canter-
bury : there are, however, thirteen parislies in the
city,. under his immediate government, and stiled his
peculiars, which are exempt from the bishop's juris.^
diotioD*
The d^n is to assist the bishop in ordinations, de-
pnvations, and other affairs of the churqh.; and oix
the king's writ of Congi d^elire; the dean and pre«^.
bendaries elect the bishop ; but tbis'ekction is now a.
mere maliter of form, since the pefsou reconmiefided
by the king is always chosen. The dean is also
elected by the chapter, on letteiB missive fix)m the
king, whc^ assent must be obtained before the bi-
shop can confirm and give power to instal him.
The precentor, or chanter, is to superintend the
church music. Under him is a sub-chanter, who
officiates in his absence. The second stall, on the
north side of the choir, belongs to this officer, whose
corpa is in the church of Stortford, of wliichhe is
proprietor, and perpetual rector, and patron of the
vicarage.
The chancellor was anciently called Mugiater
scho/arumy from having had the charge of literature
within the city of London, whereby he was em-
' powered
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3Sif ^ HISTORY AND SU&VET OF
powdered to license all the schoolmasters in the <!ity«
except those of. St. J\tary-le-Bow, and St« Martin^
le-Grand: but at present, he is only secretary to
the chapter. He has the third stall on the north side
of the choir, and his corps is-in the church of Bore<«
ham and Yelling.
The treasurer has the custody of the valuables be->
longing to the cathedral church of St. Paul; for the
faithful keeping of which he is sworn before the dean
and chapter. ^ tJe has the third stall on the south
side of th^ choir, and his corps is in the church of
Pelham and Aldebri. Under him is the sacrist, who
is also sworn to the faithful discharge of his ofiice,
'three vergers, and the inferior servants of the
church.
The five archdeaconries are those of London, Eb-^
sex, Middlesex, Colchester, and St Albania. Their
office is to visit the several cures within their respec*
tive archdeaconries, and to enquire into the repara-
tions and moveables belonging to them ; to reform
slight abuses in ecclesiastical matters, and to brii^
affairs of moment before the bishop. It is also the
office of the archdeacon to induct clerks into their
benefices upon the bishop's mandate.
The thirty canons, or prebendaries, with the bi-
shop, compose the chapter, by which the affairs of
the church are managed. All the prebends are in
the collation of the bishop, and out of them there are
three residentiaries, besides the dean ; so called from
their continual residence in the church.
The prebends belonging to this cathedral are as
follow, viz. ^
Bromesbury, or Brandesbury, wliose corps lie in
the parish of Willesdon, in Middlesex; whose stall
is the fomteenth on the left side of the choir.
Brownswoo^*
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LOKDON AND ITS EN\'1IU)»S. ' SSA
I BrowDswood, or Brownsword, in the parish of
Wiltesdon, Middlesex, hath the sixteenth stall on
the right side of the choir.
Cadington msyor, in the xmuot of Cadinjs^on, in
the county of Bedford, now called the manor of
Aston-bury, with a further revenue ftom certain
houses in St. Paul's church-yard; has the seven-
teenth stall on the left side of the choir.
. Cadington minor, in the parish of Cadington, Bed-
fordshire ; has the fifth stall on the left side of tlie
choir.
Chamberlain-wood, in the parish of Willesdon,
Middlesex ; has the fifth stall on the right side of
the choir,
Chiswick, in the parish of Chiswick, Middlesex;
has the eighteenth stall on the left side of the choir.
Consumpt. per Mare (or in Waltone), in the parish
' of Walton in le Soker, Essex, about three miles north
of the Gunfleet upon the sea-coast. This corps is so
called from having been swallowed up by the sea,
bef<Nre the conquest. It holds the thirteenth stall on
the left side of the choir.
£a]and, of £ldelond, in Tillin^ham, near Dengy,
in the deanery and hundred of Dengy, and county
of Essex ; hath the tenth stall on the left side of the
choir.
Ealdstreet, in the parish of St. Leonard, Shoreditch,
Middlesex; has the eighteenth stall on the right side
pf the choir,
Harleston, in the parish of Willesdon, Middlesex,
has an additional revenue from some houses in St.
Pauls rhurch-yard; and th^ 7th stall on the right
side of tlie choir.
Holboume, in the parish of St. Andrew, Holbora,
in the suburbs of London ; hath the sixth stall on
tlie right 5fide of the^chpir.
Holywell^
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$56 HinORY AKD SU&TEY OF
Holywdi, alias Finsbury, in die manor of Fins-
buiy, situate in th/e several parishes of St. Giles, Crip-
plegate^ and St. Leonard, Shorec^itcb ; hath the fourth
stall on the right side of the choir.
In the year 1315, May 23, an agreement was en-
tered into between Robert de Baldock, Prebendary
of Holywell add Finsbury, and John Gizors, the
mayor, and commons of London ; whereby the said
Robert, for himself and successors (with the consent
of the dean and chapter), did grant all his right and
claim in Mora de Holywell and Finsbury, to the same
mayor and commonalty ; for which they were to pay
him and his successors twenty shillings rent per anh.
Hoxton, of old named Shoreditch, in the parish of
St. Leonard, Shoreditch, or within the limits thereof;
hath the ninth stall on the left side of the choir.
Isledon, or Islington, in the parish of Islington,
Middlesex ; hath the eleventh stall yn the left side
of the choir.
. Kentish-town, in the parish of St. Pancras, Mid-
dlesex ; hath the tenth stall on the right side of the
choir.
Mapesbury^ or Maplebury, in the parish of Willes-
don, Middlesex ; hath the twelfth stall on the right
side of the choir.
Mora, or More extra London, in the parish ^f St.
Giles, without Cripplegate; hath the ninth stall on
the right side of the choir.
Nelsdon, orNeasdon, in the parish of Willesdon,
Middlesex ; hath the fifteenth stall on the left side of
the choir.
Newinijton, or Newton Ginonicorum, in the parish
of Stoke Newington, Middlesex ; hath the sixteenth
stall on the left side of the choir.
Oxgate, in the parish of Willesdon, Middlesex ;
hath the thirteenth s.taU on the right side of the choin
3 Sit
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LO^DOK AND* ITS E^tVIROXS. SSj
St. Pancms, in Middlesex, near Londbn r hath th^
sixth stall on the left side of the choir. H
N. B. The Prebendary of St. Famcms was origi*
Daily the Bishop of London^s confessor ; and to thi»'
diay^ whoever is Prebendary of St. PdiicrM, is admit-
ted with the office of confessor and penitentiary
thereunto anneiied.
Portpoole, or Pourtepol, extra London, in and
about Portpoole-lane and Gray's-inn-lane, in the pa-
rish of St. Andrew, Holbbrn ; hath the eighth stall
on the right side of the choir.
Reculverland, in the parish of Tillingham, in Es-
sex ; hath the seventh stall on the left side of the
choir.
Rugmore, in the parish of St. Pancras, Middlesex;
hath tbe seventeenth stall on the right side of ther
choir.
Sneating, in the parish of Kirkeby, in Essex ; hatb
the fourteenth stall on the right side of the choir.
Tottenhall, or Tottenham-court, in the parish of
St. Pancras, Middlesex; hath the fourth statl on the
left side of the choir.
Twyford, called East Twyford, in the parish of
Willesdon, Middlesex ; has the eleventh stall on the
right side of the choir.
W^nlakeVbarn, otWellakf^bury, in the parish of
St. Giles; has the fiftea^th stall on the right side of
the choir.
Wildland, in the parish of Tillingham, Essex; has
the eighth stall on the left side of the choir,
Willesdon, or Willesdon-green, in the parish of
Willesdon, Middlesex ; has the twelfth stall on the
left side of the choir. ,
The twelve petty canons are usually chosen out of
the ministers and officers belonging to the chiircb.
•They were constituted a body politic and corporate,
by letters patent of Richard 11. dated in 1399, ^n-
VOL. III. XX der
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33S UISTORT AKD SUftVEY OF
derthedrnoinination of " The college of the twelve
^tty canons of St. Paul's." Thej are governed by
a warden chosen from among themselves, and have
the privilege of a conunon seal.
One of the petty canons is appointed sub-dean, by
the dean with the consent of the chapter and minor
canons. His office is to supply th^de&ns place in
the choir. Two others are denominated cardinals of
the choir, to which office they are elected by the
dean and chapter, and are to superintend the duly of
the choir.
With respect to the ancient state of the parish
priests of London, it is to be observed that their re-
venues did not arise from a glebe, or from tythe of
lands, but from customary payments issuing out of
the houses of their parishioners according to the
value of the rents, which were called oblatiomy be-
cause they were small pieces of money oifered by
each parishioner to Grod and the churth, on certain
holidays.
This custom had been used for many ages, but
the earliest document on record. for regulating the
amount of the payments, is the constitution of Roger
Niger, Bishop of London, from 1229 to 1241,
whereby the citizens were enjoined to pay to their
respective parish priests on ail Sundays and festivals,
the vigils of which were to be observed as feasts,
one farthing for every house at ten shillings a year
rent ; a halfpenny for one of twenty, and for those
of forty shillings one penoyeach: all whjch. amounted
to about two shillings and six pence in the pound ;
for there Were but eight apostles days oii which these
payments were to be made, and if any of these
chanced to fall on a Sunday, there was only one paj-
ment made for that day,
ITiis mode of payment continued, until the
1 3th Richard 11. when Thomas Arundel, Archbishop
of
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LOXDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 339
of Cailterbury, publi^ed *^ An Explanatioo''* of the
constitution made by !Niger, in which he added
tB"enty-two other saints days, by which the payments
were increased to three shillings and five pence in the
pound; but this having occasioned contests between
the inhabitants and their pastors, a bull of confimui-
tion was issued by Popef Innocent, in the 5th year of
Henry IV. Still the citizens were dissatisfied, and
notwithstanding a second bull of confirmation by
Pope Nicholas, in tl^e 31st of Henry VL they caused
a record or protest to be made, in which they asserted,
that the order of explanation by the archbishop of
Canterbury, was surreptitiously obtained, without the
knowledge and consent of the citizens of London, and.
was to be considered rather as a destructive, than a
declaratory law.
Notwithstanding this opposition of the citizens,
they were constrained to pay on the additional saints
clays, until the seventeenth of Henry VIIL when
the matter in dispute being referred to the Lord Chan-
cellor and Privy Council, an act of parliament,
founded upon their report, was passed, by which the
rate was reduced to two shillings and nine pence in
the pound.
But although the citizens obtained this diminution
of the rate, they remained equally unwilling tp pay
it, and sought to reduce it by various stratagems, par-
ticularly by taking their houses at low nominal rents,,
and making up the difference to the landlord by
yearly or quarterly fines, annuities, new years
gifts, &c. wliereby the clergy were defrauded of
their just demands, which occasioned repeated ap-
phcatioUvS to parliament, and to the king and council,
but no effectual redress was obtained, until after the
fire of London •.
By this event, eighty four of the* ninety seven
parish churches within the walls were destroyed, and
their
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940 HIStOHY AVP SITftTET OF ,
thdr number being greatly reduced by the iiiriting of
several parishes into ope, in pursuance of the act for
rebuilding the city, it was found necessary to make a
more certain provision for the incumbents of the
several livings; in consequence of which an act was
passed in 167 1 9 for providing a fixed annual revenue
for the maintenauce of the parsons, vicars, and cui^tes,
of the respective single or united parishes, to be
raised by an equal assessment. This act remained in
force until the year 1804, when in consequence of a
petition of the London clergy, for an increase of their
annual stipends, anew act was passed by which they
were setded as follows: - £• s. d.
AUhallows, Lombard-street SOO
St, Bartholomew, Exchange 200
St Bridget or St. Bride's 200
St. Bennet Finck 800
St. Michael's, Crooked-lane 200
St. Dionis Back-church 200
St. Dunatan in the East 333
St. James, Garlick-hithe > 200
St. Michael, Cornhill 233
St. Margaret, Lothbury & St. Christopher 366 13
St. Michael, Bassishaw 220
St. Mary, Aldermanbury 250
St.Marttn, Ludgate 266
St. Peter's, Cornhill 200
i5t. Stephen, Coleman-street 200
St. Sepulchre's 333
AUhallows, Bread-st. and St. John Evan-
gelist " . - 233 6 a
AUhallows the Great, and AUhallows the
Less **- - - 333 6 '8
St. Alban^s, Wood-st. and St. Olave'a Sil-
ver-street - - .283 6 8
St. Anne, St. Agnes, &St. JohnZachary's 233 6 8
St. Aus^ustine and St. l^aith r 286 13 4
St,
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Q
0
Q
0
0
6
8
0
0
6
8
3
4
8
4
0
0
3
4
0
0
0
0
6
8
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LOVPOK ▲»!> 1X8 £NVlAONft» S41
St» Andrew Wardrobe, and St. Aaoe« ^'^ ^. <ij^«
Black-friars - ^ - fidd 6 ^8
St. Antholine, and St, Jehn Baptist 200 Q 'o
St. Benet's, Grace-church, and Sl Leo-
nard, East-cheap - - 233 6 8
St.Benety haul's- wharf, and St. Peter,
Paul's-wharf - - - gOO 0 0
Chriftt^s-church, & St. Leonard,Foster-lane 2J3 6 8
St. Edmund the King, and S£. Nicholas
Aeons - - 300 © 0
St. George, Botolph-lanc, and St. Botolph,
Billingsgate - .- 300 0. 0
St. L4avvrence, Jury, and St. ^lary Mag-
dalen, Milk-street - iiOO 0 0
St. Magnus, and St. Margaret, New Fish-st 28 J 6 8
St. Michael Royal, and St. Martin Vintry 233 6 8
St. Matthew Friday-street, and St. Peter
cheap - ' - - 250 0 0
St. Margaret Pattens, and St. Gabriel Fen-
church 200 0 0
St. Mary at Hill, and St. Andrew Hubbard 333 6 8
St. Mary VV^oolnorth, and St, Mary ^Vool-
church . . - •- 266 13 4
St. Clement E-cheap, & St. Martin's Ogars 233 6 8
3t. Mary Abchurch, and St. Laurence
Poultney - - 200 0 0
St. Mary Aidermary, and St. Thomas Apos-
• tie's . . . • 230 0 0
St. Mary le Bow; St. I'ancrass Soperlane,
and Allhallows, Honey-lane - 333 6 8
St. Mildred Poultry, and St. Mary Cole-
church - - 283 6 a
St Michael, Wpod-st.andSt. Mary Stain-
ing - - 200 0 0'
St. Mildred, Bread-st. an 1 St. Margaret
Moses - - - 216 13 4
^, Michael, Queenhithe wid Trinity 266 13 4
^ St,
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342 HlSrOltY AND SURVEY OF
St. Maiy Magdalen, Old fisb-st. and St. £. s. d. '
Gre^ry - • 200 0 0
St. Mary Somerset, and St. Mary Mount-
haw - - * 200 0 0
St. Kcbolas Cole-abbey, and St. Nicholas
Olave'8 - - - - 216 13 4
St. Olave Jewry, and St. Martin, Ironmon-
ger-lane - - 2©0 O 0
St. Stepb.Walbrook,and St. BennetShere-
hog - - - 200 0 0
St. Switbin, and St. Mary Bo:haw 233 6 8
St Vedast, alias Foster's, and St. Michael
le Quern - - 266 13 4
The annual stipends are over and above glebes,
gifts^ bequests, and surpUce fees ; and the vicar of
St. Sepulchre's is entitled to one third part of the im-
propriate ty thes, ill respect of that part of the parish
whicii is within the county of Middlesex.
We learn from Fabian's Chronicle, that in his time,
the number of parish churches in London, amounted
to one hundred and thirteen, and that there were
also twenty-seven hd(fel*s of religion, monas-
teries, colleges and chapels, which were not paro-
chial.
The first .instance of adding the word saint to the
name of the parish, occurred in the weekly bill of
mortality, from January 15th to January 22nd, 1^*34;
but this was thought so great a profanation, that^in
1642, in the maj'orally of Alderman Pennington,
the title of saint was ordered to be expunged for the
future, and so it continued till the restorartion of
Charles II. when it was again brought into use.
The origin of the weekly bills of mortality is in-
volved in great obscurity. In a work entitled " Re-
flections on the Weekly Bills of Mortality,^* pub-
lished in 1665, it is said that the keeping of them
began in the year 1592, being a great year of sick-
' nes& ;
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LONDON. AND ITS EKVIRONS. 349
ness ; and, after some disuse, was established by*
order in the year 1603, the next year of sickness:
the first of the continued weekly bills of mortality,
commencing October S9th, in the same year,, being
the first year of the reign of Ring James I. Dis-
eases begaxi first to be distinctly taken notice of in
the year 1629- On this subject, however, Strype
says, " 1 meet with an older bill of mortality, viz.
for the year 1562, and ending 1563, when a
pbgue raged in the city/' The account whereof was
as ibllows : .
Buried in London, and the places near ad«
joining, from the Ist of January, lo62, to the
1st of January, 1563, in the whole number 93630
Whereof of the plague - - 20136
The true number of all that were buried
within the city and liberties ' - - 204 14
The true number of all that were buried" in
places near adjoining to the city, and -wtthput
the liberties r- . - 3216'
Here is set down likewise, how many died in-
each parish. This bill of mortality might be the
first of this kind ; at least much okler than Ihat men-
tioned by Captain Grant, viz. 159^, 15y3, which he
seems to hold to be the oldest. . /^
CHAP,
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34* MISTORV AND SUJtVllV 69
CHAR XXXV.
Of the Military Govem/nent of tJfe City of London— Mus*
ters of the Citizens — Trained Bands-^pondun Militia^^
Artillery Company^ — f^olunieer Regiments.
Thovgh the origin of die military government of
London cannot be ascertained, it nevertheless must
be of great antiquity, for in the reign of Alfred, the
London forces being .joined to the regular army,
they, in 886, besieged and took a castle car iort\
erected by the Danes on the coast of Essex ; and, in
the following spring, in conjunction with the neigh-
bouring auxiliaries, dislodged the Danes from a
strong position they occufued near the site of the
present town of Hertford; Heoce it is highly pro-
bable, that a 'military government was establi^lied
by that prince in London, immediately after he had
recovered it from the Danes.
In LOO9, the Danes, who had peuetnited as far
as Oxford,, were so terrified at the approach of an
army x>f l^nd^iers,^ that, taking a circuitous route
through the county of Surrey, they hastened 40 their
ships in Kent.
How soon the city became possessed of a military
government, distinct from that of the state,' does not
appear ; but Edward H. having received military as-
sistance from the city of London, in the year 1321,
in besieging the castle of Leeds in' Kent, granted a
charter to the citizens, whereby it is declared, that
the same shall not be prejudicial to the mayor and
good men of the city of London, their heirs, &c.
nor be drawn into example in time to come.
In the muster of the citizens in 1585, mentioned
in vol. 11. p. 17, the men were provided by the dif-
ferent
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 34i
fepeat companies, in proportion to their abilities ;
ai) account of which was delivered to Sir Thomas
PuUyson, the Lord Mayor, from which the follow-
ing list of the numbers sent by the twelve principal
companies is extracted, viz.
Mercers 294 Haberdashers 395
Drapers
347
Salters
160
Grocers
395
Ironmongers
147
Fishmongers
Goldsmiths
200
Vintners
107
280
Merchant Taylors
1395
Skinners
17+
Cloth-workers
214
The total chaige of this muster to the several
companies, including a sum of, two hundred and
eighty-nine pounds three shillings and two-pence,
coUected from the non-freemen inhabiting the city,
amounted to fiye thousand and twenty-three pounds
four shillings and three-pence.
In the middle of April, 1660, about six weeks be-
fore the Restoration of King Charles II. there was a
muster in Hyde-Park of the troops belonging to the
city, when there appeared six regiments of trained
bands, six regiments of auxiliaries, and one regiment
of horse. Of the twelve regiments of foot, eight had
seven companies, and the other four, six companies in
each; in all, eighty companies of two hundre(land
fifty men, making eighteen thousand effective in-
feiJtry. The regiment of horse consisted of six
troops of one hundred men each. The assembling
of this force before his majesty's return, was judged
to be highly instrumental in facilitating that happy
work.
This force being judged very usefiil, not only
for the defence of the city, but for the safety of the
king's person, his majesty, soon after his restoration^
VOL. III. Y y appointed
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3^6 HISTORY AND StJHVEY OF
appointed a comthission of lieutepanef for the city
of I^ndon, which he invested with the same powers
as those possessed by the loird-lieu tenants of coun-
ties, by whom the traint^d bands were new-modelled*
The number of the regiments of infantry remained
the same, but the cavalry was increased to two regi-
ments of five troops, with eighty men in each.-
The six regiments of auxihary infantry and the
cavalry, were not however kept up longer than ne-
cessity required, and the permanent military force of
the city of London was settled in the six regiments
of trained bands, the effective strength of which
was as follows :
Number of men in the bliie regiment
in the greeh
in the yellow
in the orange '
in the red
in the white
996$
Oflficers and drums 336
Total 10,i98
Subsequent to the period when this establishment
was made, the continued tranquillity of the city
rendered any call upon theit own forces unnecessary,
in copsequence of which, the trained bands went to
decay, though they Were nominally kept up, and
the commissions filled with th^ chief citizens ; each
regiment being commanded by an alderman, who
was also usually a knight. But when on the break-
ing out of the late war with prance, it was found
necessary to put forth all the energies of the coun*
try, the inisufficiency df the trained bands was so
apparent, th^t a neW^^y^tem was resorted to ; and
1 in
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LQ^Bpl^ 4NP lys ENviapys. . 347
in July, J 79*5 an act of parliameftt was passed, for
raising two regiments of njilitia for the defence of the
city, tfi be traiqed and exercised under the super-
intendence of the commissioners of lieutenancy ; for
which purpose, tivo courts of lieutenancy are held
annualfy^ viz. oq the third Wednesdays in January
and June.
By the above act, it was proposed to raise the
men by ballot, in the following manner : every per-
son or corporation within the city, possessed of a
tenement of the annual value of filteen pounds, and
less than one hundred pounds if ^allotted, was to
serve, or find one substitute : from one to two hundred
pounds, to find two substitutes ; and above two
hundred pounds, three substitutes.
The men so provided, weieU> be formed into two
regiments of six hiundred ran)c and £ie each, and to
be officered witlt citizens, and exercised in a similar
manner to the other militia regiments ; but when
embodied for service, one regiment to be put under
general pfficers in any pa^^,Qf the country, within
twelve imiles of JLondon, or in the nearest encamp-
ment ; ^he other to remain iu the city for the de-
fence of it and the suburb^.
This mode of jjallpt, however, being found on trial,
to be attended wjth many Jnconveaiencjes, a second
act was passed jn May, 1796, by which it was
enacted, that a certain number of men should ^be
raised, and the expense be defrayed by an equal
assessment upon the different parishes, in pursuance
of which, the numbers appointed to be raised in
each w^rd, are as follow :
Jp^r the east regiment.
In Aldgate ward - gO
jBassishavv . 12
J3illjngsga(9 .- . 41
Bishopsgate'
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948
HISTOET AND tTISVKT OF
In Bishopsgate within
44
without
50
I^ridge
96
Broad-street
50
Candle wick '
20
Coleman-street
36
Comhili
36
Dowgate
27
Langboum
67
Lime street
20
Portsoken
45
Tower
66
Total
600
For the west regiment,
Aldersgate within, and
St Martin Vle-grand 1 8
without - 21
Bread-street -24
Castle Baynard - 44
Cheap • 44
Cordwainer - 29
Cripplegate within - 44
without - 36
Farringdon within - 84
without - 192
Queenhithe - 21
Vintry • 33
Wallbrook - 27
600
The commissioners of lieutenancy for the city of
London are the lord mayor, aldermen and their de-
puties, the recorder, chamberlain and common-ser-
jeant for the time being, with one hundred and fifty-
five of the prUicipal citizens, appointed by his ma-
jesty.
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 349
jesty. Their usual place of meeting is at Barber's
halL
Besides these two regiments of militia, the city
is defended by the artillery conipany, which is a vo-
luntary enrolment of the younger citizens, and others^
of long standing ; and by eleven regiments of volun-
teers, formed daring the last and present wars, and
amounting to near eight thousand of the citizens,
their sons and confidential servants.
The following is the account of the origin of the
artillery company, as given by Strype, from Howe's
Chronicle. " In the year 1585, the city having
been greatly troubled and charged with continual
musters and training of soldiers, certain gallant, ac-
tive, and foi*ward citizens, having had experience
both at home and abroad, voluntarily Exercised
themselves, and trained up others for the ready use
of war. So as within two yeai^, there were almost
three hundred merchants, and others of like quality,
very sufficient and skilful to train and teach common
soldiers the management of their pieces, pikes, and
halberts, to nmrch, counter-march, and ring. Which
said merchants, for their own perfecting in military
affairs and discipline, met every Thursday in the
year, practising ail usual points of war, and every
man by turns bare orderly office, from the <!0rporal
to the captain. Some of them, in the dangerous
year 1588, had charge of men* in the greistt camp at
Tilbury, and were generally called captains of the
ajtillery garden, the place where they exercised*
These took precedent from the merchants of Ant-
werp.
" But this useful artillery exercise became after-
wards discontinued for a great while, till'^the year
i6lO; when, by means of Philip Hudson, lieutenant
9f the said company, Thomas Laverock, Roberf
Hughs,
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950 HISTORY AkO ^V^VSY of
HttgbB, Saoq. Artbois, Robert *Greenhurgt, ^nd divers
other gentlemen and citizens of London, tliis br^ve
exercise was reviewed and eet oo. foot s^in. These
gentieinea a^^sociated in the said garden, h^LVMig suf--
.ficieot warrant and toleration granted them by the
lords of King James's privy-roouncil, to whom they
became huu^le suitors in the begi^ning» for prevea-
tion of aU future misconstructions of their hoodst in-
tent and actions therein. Aqd having duly considered
the necessity of the knowledge pf arm^ in so popu-
lous a place, and the inconveniences that happened
to Antwerp, and other theijr late populous and flourish-
ing neighbour-cities, principally by reason of their
. neglectof that most nobieexercise c^ arms aad martial
discipline, in timesof wealth and peace. Th^se^ there-?
fore, now m[Klertook, at their own private and partis
icular charge, a weekly ^^ercise of arms, after the
modern and best fashion and instructipu then in us^.
Audo moreoveir, for Itheir better ease and conveni-
«ncy, they erected a strong and well fun^isbed armoiy
in the said ground ; in which were arms pf several
fiorts, ai)d jof such extraordiaary beauty, fashion, a«d
goodness for service, as w-ere ba^rdiy to. he watched
elsewhese/'
^ From this period, the artillery company ^r^aaed
^eatly. Gentlemen resorted to the Artillery-gc^nd
from all parts, to learn milijtary discipline, and bavii^
acquired a competent knowledge of Uie art of war,
returned home to instruct the trained bands in every
part of the kingdom.
At length, the company grew so numerous, a-
mounting to nearly six thousand men, that, the Ar-
tillery-garden was too small to oontain them ; where-
fore they were obliged to seek for a more convcaai^t
and capacious place toexeroise in, and, having pro-
cured a lacgie iiekl without Moorgate, t^ey rennoveii
thither.
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIAONS* 961
thither, about the end of the reign of James I. This
is the ground in which the company continue to
assemble.
The Artillery company id governed by a president,
vice-president, treasurer, and court of assistants. His
Royal Highness the Prince of Wales » their captain-
general ; but all their other military officers are cho-
sen anniliilly.
In addition to thjs force, which may be considered
as peculiar to the city of London, there are^lso one
regiment of volunteer jnfantry, belonging to the Bank,
and three regiments o^the same description belong-
ing to the EABt4Ddia Company; all of which are
composed of the sertants of these two companies,
and are officered by the directors, and the principal
persons in their employ. These regiments were raised
for the purpose of defending the immenise, property
belonging to these bodies, in case of insurrection or
ihvadioft.
LIST
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$62
HISTORY AND STOVET OF
LIST OF THE
MAYOKS AND SHERIFFS OF LONDON,
From the earliest Accounts to the present Yetr.
Ytai.. LORD MAYORS.
1189 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
JI90 Henry Fitr-Alwyn
ligi Henry Fitz-Alwyn
IJg2 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
Ijga Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1?94 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
J 195. Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1 196 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1197 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
II9& Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1199 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1200 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1201 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1202 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1203- Henry Fitz-Alwyn
I204« Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1205 ^Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1206* Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1207" Hedry Fitz-Alwyn
1208- Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1209 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1210 .Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1211 Henry Fitz-Alwyn 1
1212 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1213 Henry Fitz-Alwyn
1214 Serle Mercer
1215 William Hardel
1216 / '^acob Alderman ^
(. Salmon Basing J
1217 Serle Mercer
1218 Serle Mercer
1219 Serle Mercer
1220' Serle Mercer
1 22 U Serle Mercer
SHERIFFS.
Henry deCornhcll, Rich. Reyner
John Herlisum, Roger le Duk
Will. de^Havylle, John Bokoynle
>^icho]e Duket^ Peres Nevlam
Roger le Due, Roger fit. Alani
Will. fil.Ifiabd, Will. fiLAluf
Robert Besau), Jukel Alderman
Godard de Antioche, Ro. fil. Dorant
Robert Blundul» Nicbole Duket
G>nstantioe fil. Aln^ Rob. de Bel
Arnaud fil. Aluf, Rich. fil. Barthelmi
Roger de Desert^ Jacob Alderman
Sim. de Aldermanbir, Will. fil. Aliz
Norman le Blunt, John de Kai
Walt, le Bran, Will. Chaumbteleyn
Tho. de Hanlle, Hamund Brand
John Waleran, Rich. Wincestrie
John Elylond, Edmund de la Halle
Serle Mercier, Hen. de Sent Auban
Robert de Wincestre, Will. Hardel
Thomas fil. Neel, Peres le Due
Pores le Juneen, William Wite
Stephen Crassul, Adam Whiteby
Goce fil. Peres, John Gerlande
Const. Unienis, Randulob Elyland
Martin fil. Aliz, Peter Bac
Salmon de Basing^ Hugo de Basing
Andrew Nevelun, John Trovers
Benet le Seynter, Will. BInndus
Randolph Elyland, Tho. Bokerel
Goce le Pesur, John Viel
John Viel, Richard de Wimbledon
Richard Renger^ Goce Juniens
1222 Serle
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS.
353
Yem. LORD MAYORS.
SHERIFFS.
Richard Renger, Tbomas Lambert
Thomas Lambert^ WiUiam Jovner
John Travers, Andrew B6kerel
Andrew Bokerel, John Travers
Roger le Dae, Martjn fil. William
Martyn fil. William, Roger le Due.
Henry de Cochin , Stephen Bokerel
Stephen Bokerel, Henry de Cochin'
Rob. fil. John, Walter de Wencestre
John de Woburhe, Rich. fil. Walter
Walt, de Bufle, Mich, de St. Ifeleyne
Henry Edemontoit, Gerard Bat
Roger Blondus, Simon AL Marie
1235 Andrew Buckerell Radulph Aswy, John Normad
1236 Andrew Buckerell Gerard Bat» Robert Hardel
Hen. de Cochin, Jordan de Coventre *
J. de Walbroc, Gervase Chamberleyne
John de Wilchale^ John de Coudres '
Remer de Bungeye, Radulph Aswy
Michel Tony,. John de Gysors
John Viel, Thomas Dareme
Radtilpli Aswy, Robert fit. John
Adam de Gysebume, Hugo Blundul
Nichole Bat. Radulph de Arcubus
Nichole Bat. Robert de CdrnhuB
Sim. fil. Marie, Laurence de Frowick
Wiljiam Viel, Nichole Bat
Nic. fil. Jocei, Galdfred de Wincestrt
John Tolesan, Radulph Hardel ^
Humf.de Faber, Wifl. fil. Richard
Nichole Bat, Laurence de Frowik
Will. deDuremlP, Tho. de Winburnt
Rich, Picard, John de Norhamton '
William Aswy, Henry Wafemund
Mathias Bokerel, John le Mtnat'
William Aswy, Richard Ewelfe
Tho. fil. Thomas Rob. de Catelene
John Adrian, Robert de CornhuU '
1260 Will. Fifz-Richard Adam Browning, Hen. de Coventre
1261 Will. Fitz-Richard Rich. Picard, John de N6z;hamtoi^
1262 Tho. Fitz-Thomas Philip de Tailur, Rich, de Walebroc
1263 Tho. Fitz-Thomas Osb.de SufFolchia.Rt.deMunpeylers
1264- Tho. Fitz-Tbomas Gregori de Rokesle, Thomas de Forda
1265-Tha. Fitz-Thomas Edward Blund, Peter Aun^er •
126(5 Will. Fitz-Richard Greg6ri de Rokesle, Simon Hadestok
Tot. xiu '' 2 2 1267 Alein
1222 Serle Mercer
1223 Richard Rehger
1224 Richard Renger
122^ Richard Renger
1226 Richard'Renger
1227 Rc^er Duke
1228 Roger Dulce
1229 Roger Duke
1230 Roger Duke
1231 Roger Duke
1232 Andrew Buckerell
1233 Andrew Buckerell
1234 Andrew Backerell
1237 Andrew Backerell
1238 Richard Renger
1239 WyllyamJoynour
1240 CerardeBat
i241 Reginald Bongay
1242 . Reginald Bongay
1243 RauffeAsfaway
1244 MvchaelTony
1245 Johan Gysors
1246 Johan Gysors
1247 Pyers Aleyne
1248 MychaelTony
1249 Roger Fitz Roger
1250 Johan rforman
1251 Adam Basing
1252 Johan Tholozane
1253 NycholasBatte
1254 Richard Hardell
1255 Richkrd Hardell
1256 Richard Hardell
1257 Richard Hardell
1258 Richard Hardell
1259 Johan Gy sours
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354
HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
Vean. LORD MAYORS.
267 Ale'mSouch
268 AletaSouch
26Q Tho. Fitz-Thomas
270- Johan Adryan
271 Johan Adryan
272 Sir Walter Harvey
273 Sir Walter Harvey
274 Henry Waleis
275 Gregory Rolceslie
276 Gregory Rbkeslie
277 Gregoiy Rokeslie
278 Gregory Rokeslie
279 Gregory Rokeslie
280 Gregory Rokeslie
281 Gregory Rokeslie
282 Henry Waleys
283 Henry Waleys
284 Henry Waleys
285 Gregory Rokeslie
286 Rauf Sandwich
287 Johan Breton
298 Rauf Sandwich
289. Rauf Sandwich
290- Rauf Sandwich
291 Rauf Sandwich
292 Rauf Sandwich
293 Rauf Sandwich
294 Sir Johan Breton
295 Sir Johan Breton
296 Sir Johan Breton
Og? Sir Johan Breton
298 Henry Waleis
299 Elyas Russell
300 RIyas RasseU
301 Johan Blount
302 Johan* Blount
303 Johan Blount
304 Johan Blount
305 Johan Blount
306 Johan Blount
307 Johan Blount
308 Nych. Faryngdone
1-309 Thomas Rumayne
13 10 Richard Roffham
1311 Johan Gysours
SHERIFFS.
John Adryan, Luks Badecot
Tbo. Basynge, Rob. de Gomehytt
William de Durham, Walter Henry
Will. Haddystoke, Anketyll de Alveme
Walter Porter, Philip Taylour
Gregory Rokysle, Henry Waleys
Rycbard Parys,,John Bedyll
Johan Home, Walter Potter
Nic. Wynchester, Henry Coventre
Lucas Patincoorty Henry Frowyke
Johan Home, RaufFe Blount
Robert Braoeyi Rauffe Fefioar
Johan Andryan, Walter Langley
Robert Basyng, Wyllyam Mazarer
Thomas Box, Rauffe More
Wyll. Faryngdon, Nic Wynchester
Wyll. Mazarer, Nic. Wyncbester
RaufFe Blunt, Hawkyn Betnell
Jordan Goodchepe, Martyn Box
Stephen Comebyll, Robert Fokesby
Walter Blount, Johan Wade
Thomas Crosse, Willyam Hawteyn
Wylljram Hereford, "nomas Stanys
Wyll. Betayn, Johan of Canterbury
Fulkeof St. Edmunde, Saln.Langfoide
Thomas Romayn, Wyll. de Lyra
RaufFe Blount, Hamonde Boxe
Henry Bale, Elys Russell
Robert Rokesley, Martyn Awbry
Henry Boxe, Richarde Gloucester
Johan Dunstable, Ad. Halyngbery
Thomas SuC Adam de Fulhan^
,Jo. de Stordforde, Will, de Stortfordc
Richard RefFham, Thomas Seley
John Armenter, Hen.de Fry ngeryth
Luke Haverynge>*Rich. Champeis
Robert Caller, Peter Bosham
Hugh Pourt, Simon Parys
Wil. Combmartyn, Johan de Burffsrde
Roger Parys, John LyDCCmn
Raynold Doderell, Will. Cansyn
Symon B'>let, Godf. de la Conduyt
NicholiKS Pygotte, Mygbell Drury
Wyllyam Basynge^ John Butler •
James of St. fidmunde^ Rog. Palmer
J 3 12 Johao
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS-
355
Yetis. LORD-MAYORS. SHERIFFS.
1312 Johan Pounteney * Simon Scroppe, Peter Blacniiy
1313 Nycb. Faiyngdone Simon Merwode, Rycb. Wylfordt
^ John Lambyn, Adam Lutekyo
Adam Harden, Hugh Gayton
Step. oP Abyrgdone, Ham. Cbykwell
HainoDdc Goodchepe Wil. Redynge
Wyllyam Caston, RanfiB Palmer
Johan Pryoure, Wyll. Furneure
Johan Pontenay, John Dallyiige
Symon Abyngdon, Johan Pre«tcm
Reynoldeat Conduyt, Wil.'Prodham
Rych. Constantyne, Rich. Hakeney
Johan Grantham, Rycharde of Ely
Adam Salisbury, Johan of Oxynforde
Benet of Fulham, Johan Causton
1327 Hamond Chyckwell Gylbert Moordon, Johan Cottoa
j328 Johan Grauntham Henry Darcey, Johan Hawteyne
Sym. Fraunces, Hen. Gombmartyne
Ry chard Lazar, Henry Gy sors
Robert of Ely, Thomas Harwodc
Johan Mockynge, Andrew Awbry
Nicholas Pyke, Johan Husband
Johan Hanionde, Wyll. Hansarde
Johan Kyngston, Walter Turfce
Walter Mordon. Richard Upton
Wyllyam Brykelswonh, Jn. N6rthaH
/Walter Neale, Nychoks Crane
Wyll. Pountfreyt, Hugh Marble
Wyll. Tliorney, Roger Forshara
Adam Lucas, Bartholomewe Marred
Richard Berkynge, Johan RocVyslee
Johan Luskyn; Richard Kyslyngbury
Johan Stewarde, Johan A ley sham
Geffrey Wychyngham,Tho. Legge
1346 GefF Wychyngham Edm. Hempnall, Johan Glouoeter
1347 Thomas Leajge Johan Croydon, Wyllyam Cloptok
Adam Bramson, Rich. Besyngstoke
Henry Pycarde, Symond Dolsely
Adam Bury, Ratiffe,Lynne
Johan Notte, Wyllyam Worcestre
Johan Wrothe, Gylbert feteyndiope
Johan Peche, Johan Stodeney
Johan Welde, Johan Lytell
Wfll. Totyngham, Richard Smert
Thomas Forster, Thomas Brandon
Richard Notyngham, Tho. Dosell
1358 Jehain
1314 Johan GySours
1315 Steph. Abyngdone
1316 Johan Wentgrave
1317 Johan Wentejrave
1318 Johan Wentgrave
1319 Ham. Chyckwell
1320 Nich. Faryngd one
1321 Ham. Chyckwell
1322 Ham. Chyckwell
1323 Nych. Faryngdone
1324 Ham. Chyckwell
1325 Ham. Chyckwell
1326 Richard Betayne
1329 Symond Swanland
1330 Johan Pounteney
1331 Johan Pounteney
1332 Johan Preston
1333 Johan Pounteney
1334 Reyn- at Conduyte
1335 Reyn. at Conduyte
133§ Johan Pounteney
1337 Henry Darcey
1338 Henry Darcey
1339 Andrew Awbrey
1340 Andrew Awbrey
1341 Johan Oxynforde
1342 Symond Frauncess
1343 Johan Hamond
1344 Johan Hamond
1345 Richard Lacere
1348 Johan Lewkyn
1349 Wyllyam Turke
1350 Rich. Killingbury
1351 Andrew Awbrey
1352 Ada%Frauncey3
1353 Adam Fraunceys
1354 Thomas Legge
1355 Symond Frauncej-s
1356 Henry Picard
1357 Johan Stody
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356
HISTORY AND SURVEY OP
Yeam-LORD-MAYORS.
1358 J.ohan Lewkyn
1359 Symond Doffelde
1360 Joiian Wroth
1361 Joh»n Pcche
1362 Stephen Caundish
1363 Joban Notte
1364 A4amBuiy
1365 Jpban (^wkyn
1366 JohaaLewkyn
1367 Jaoies Andrew
1368 Symond Mordon
1569 Joban, Chychester
1370 Johan Bernes
1371 Joban Bernes
1372 Johan Pyell.
1373 Adam pf Bury
1374 Wyll. Walworth
1375 Johan Warde
1376 Adaild $ta{>le
1377 Nicholas Bfembyr
i378 Johan Phylpot
1379 Joban Hadley
1380 Wyll. Walworthe
1381 Johan Northainpton
1882 Johan Northampton
1383 Nicholas Breipbyr
1384 Nicholas Brembyr
1385 Nycholas Brembyr
1386 Nycholas Exton
. 1387 Nycholas Exton
1388 Nicholas Swyfprd
1.389 Wyllyam Venour
1390 Adam Bamme
1391 Johan Heendf!
1392 Wyllyam StondoQ
1393 Joban Hadley
1394 , Johan Frenphe
1395 Wyllyam More
1396 Adam Bamme
1397 Rich.Whittington
1398 Drew Barentyne .
1399 Thomas Knolles
1400. Johan Frau^cef^
14oi Johan, Shadworth
1401 Johan Walcot
1403 William Askam
SHERIFFS.
Stephen Caundysher Bart. Frestelyng;
Johan Bernes, Johan Buryn
Symond de Beoyngton, /• Chychester
Johan Denys, Walter Borney
Wyllyam Holbech, James Tame
John of St, Albones, James Andrew
Richard Croydon Johan Hyltoste
Johan of Metforde, Sym. de Mordoo
Johan Bykylswortb, Johan Yrelande
Johan Warde, Wyllyam Dykman
Johan Tei^olde, Wyll. Dykman
Ad. Wymbyngham, Rob. Gyrdeler
Johan Pyell, HughHoldyche
Wyllyam Walworth, Rob. Gayton
Robert Hatfelde, Robert Gairton
Joh^nPhylpott, Nycholas Brember
Johan Awbry, Jdxan Fysshyde
Rycharde lyoiVB» Wyll. Wodhonse
Johan- Hadley, Wyllyam Newporte
Johan Northamton, Rob. Launde
Aqdrew PyVman, Nich- Twyforda
Jphai> Bosebam, Tho. Comwaleyt
Johan Heylessonj Wyllyam Baret
Walter Doket, Wyll. Knyghthode
Johan Rote, Johan Hynde
Johan Sely, Adam Bamme
Symond Winchcombe, John More
Nicholas Breton, Johan Frensbe
Johan Organ, Joban Ch3rTchemao
Wyllyam Stondon, Wyllyam More
Wyllyam Venour, Hughe Forstalfe
Thomas Austeyne, Adam Cathyll
Johnn Walcot, Joban Loveney
Tho. Vyvent, Johan Praunoes
Johao Cbadworth, Henry Vamere
Gib. Manfelde, Tho. Newyngty^
Rich, Whyttington, Drew Barentyne
Wyllyam Brampton, Tho. Knolles
Roger Elys, Johan Sheryngbam
Tho. Wylforde, Wyll. Parker
. Wyll. Askeham, Johan Wo^ecoke
Jobian Wade, Johan Warner -«***
Wyllyam, Waldem. Wyll. Hyde
Wyllyain Wakele, Wyll. Eliot .
, Wyll. Valour, Wyll. PremyDghan
Richard Marlowe, Rpbert Chicheley
1404 JohaB
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LONDON AND ITS £NViROl!lS.
357
Y<mn. LORD MAYORS.
SHERIFFS.
Tbomas'Fawconir^ Thomas Poll
Ayilfiam Lowste, Steph. Spylmun
Henry Barton, Wyllvam Cro\vner
Nych. Wotton, Godfrey Brooke
Henry Poinfret, Hetity Hatton
Thomas Dake, Wyllyam Norton
Johan Lawe, W3rllyam Cfaycheley
Johan Pcnne, Thomas Pyke
Johan Raynewell,Wyll. Gotton
Hauf Levenham^ Wyll. Sevynok
1414 Thomas Fawconer /Johan Sutton, Jdhan MicoU
1415. Nicholas Wotton ^ Johan Mychell, Tho. Aleyn
Johan Hyjknde
Johan Woodtxxjt
Rich. Whittington
Wniiam Stondoa
Drew Barentyne
^ Richard Marlowa
141Q Thomas Knolfea
1411 Rohert' Chycheley
1412 William Waldren
1413 William Crowmer
1404.
1405
1406
1407
1406
1409
1416 Henry Bartr>n
1417 Richard Marlowe
1418 William Sevenoke
14J9 Rich. Whittington
1420 Williani Cambrege
1421 Robert Chictelee
1422. William Waldem
1423 William Crowmer
1424 Johan Michel
1425 Johan Coventre
1426 William Ryttwdl
1427 Johan Gedne;y
1428. Henry Barton
1429 WMlliam Estfeld
1430 Nicholas Wotton
1431 Johan Wellis
1432 Johan Pameys
1443 Johan Brokley
1434 Robert Otley
1435 Henry Frowyk
1436 Johan Michell
1437 William Estfeld
1438 Stephen Brown
1439 Robert Large
1440 Johan Paddesley
1441 Robert Clopton
1442 Johan Atherly
Aleyn Everard, Tho. Cainbrydge
Rob. Wodtyngdon, Johan Coventre
Henry Rede, Johan Gedney
J. Bryan, Rauf. Barton, J. Parnasfie*
Robert Whytingham, Johan Butler
Johan Boteler, Wyllyam Weston
Richard Gosselyn, Willyam Weston
William Estfelde, Robert Tetersale
Nycholas Jafries, Tho. Wadeforde
Symon Seman, John By water
Wyllyam Mylred, Johan Brokle
Jonan Arnold, Johan Hyghmaa
Henry Frowick, Robert Otley
Tho. DnflFhouse, Rauffe Holand
Johin Ruffe, Rauffe Holand
' Water Chertsey, Robert Large
Johan Addyrlee, Stephen Brown
Johan Olney, Johan Paddysley
Thomas Chalton, Johan Lynge
Thomas Bernwell, Simond Eyer
Thomas Chatworth, Robert Clopton*
Thomas Morsted^ Wyll. Gregory .
Wyll. Chapman, Wyll. Halys
Hugh Dyke, Nicholas Yoo
Robert Marchall, Phylyp Malpas
yrJohan Sutton, Wyll. Whetynhale
■ William Cumbys, Richard Ryche
1443 Thomas ChatwoVth Thomas Beaumont, Rich. Nordon
1444 Henry Frowick
1445 SymkenEyer
1446 Johan Olney
1447 Johan Gedney
1448 Stephen Brown
Nych. Wyfforde, Johan Norman
Stephyn Fofster, Hugh Wyche
Johan Derby, Geffrey Fcldyng
Robert Home, Godfrey Boloyne
Wyllyam Abraham> Thoitias Scot
1^9 Thomas .
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35S
HISTORY AND SURVEY OT
Years. LOR D-MAyORS. SHERIFFS.
1449 Thomas Chalion Wyll. Cantlow, Wyll. Marowe
Wyllytm Hulyn, Tho. Cwynges
Johao Mydylton, WyUyim Dere
Math. Phylyp, Chryslofer Warton
y Richard Lae, Ricbarde Alley
^ Johaa Waiden, Thomas Coole
Johan Felde, Wyllyam Taylour
Johaii Yonge, TIiocna» Oulgrave
Johan Steward^ Raufe Verney
Wyllyam Edward, Thomas Reytier
yRaufe Jo^dyn. Ricliard Ne.leham
^Joban Plummer, Wyllyam Stockcr
Ryoh. Hemynge, Jobaa I ambarde
Johan ^oice, George Iielande
Will. Hampton » Bartylmew Jemys
Robert Basset^ Thomas Muschamp
John Tate, Johan Stone
Sir Henry Wavyr, James Constantyoe
Johan Brown, H. Bryce, J. Stockton
Humffiy Heyforde, Thomas Stalbroke
Wyll. Haryot, Symond de Smyth
Robert Drope> Richard Gardyner
Johan Cvowjf, Jobaa Warde
Johan Alley n, Johan Shelley
Johan Bro\iney' Thomas Bledlow
Johan Stoker, Robert Byllysdon
Edmond Shaa, Thomas Hylle '
Hugh Bryce, Robert Colwych
1477 Humphry Heyforde Richard Hawsoo^ Wyllyam Home
1478 Richard Gardiner . Johan Stocker, Henry Colet
Robert Hardynge, Robert Byfelde
Thomas Ham, Johan Warde
William Danyell, William Bak9n
R. Tate, Wyll. Wyking, R. Chawr>-
Wyllyam Whyte, Johan Matthewe
Thomas Norlond, Wyll. Martyn
Richard Chestir, Thomas Bretayn
Robert Tate, Johan Tate
Hugh Clop ton, Johan Percy yall
Johan Fenkyll, Johan Remyngton
Wyllyam Isaak, Rauf Tilny
Wyllyam Capell, Johan Brooke
H. Coote, R. Revell, Hugh Pemberton
Thomas Wood, Wyllyam Browne
William Purchase, Wyll. Walbek
1494 Richard
1450 Niclas Wygbrdc
1451 William Gregory
1452 Ge^rey Feldyng
1453 Johan Norman
1454 Stephen Forster
1455 William Marowe
.1456 Thon»8 Caning
1457 Geffrey Boleyn -
145S Thomas Scot
1459 William Holyo
1400 Richard J^e
1461 HughWvche
1462 Thomas Cooke
1463 Matthew Philip
1464 Rauf Josselyne
1465 RaaF Verney
1466 Johan Yonge
1467 TkomaCOwlgrave
1468 William Taylour
1469 Richard Lee
1470 Johan Stockton
1471 William Edward
1472 William Hampton
1473 Johan Tate
1474 Robert Drope
1475 Robert Basset
1476 Rauf Josselyn
14/9 Bartilroew James
1480 Johan Brown
1481 William Haryot
1482 Edmond Shaa
1483 Robert Billesdon
1484 Thomas Hylle
1485 Hugh Bryce
1486 Henry Colet
1487 William Horne
1488 Robert Tate
1489 William White
1490 John Matthew
1491 Hugh Clopton
1492 William Martyn
1493 Rauf Astry
I
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L019Q0K AND ITS ENVIRONS.
S39
I4g5 HeorjColet
1496 Joban Tate
1497 William Purchase
1498 JoKan Peicivat
14^9 Nicholas Alwyn
J5CX> Jofaan Reymifigtcfi
1501 Sir John Shaa
1502 Bartholomew Reed
1503 Sir William Capett
1504 Johaa Wyiigar
1508 Stephen Jenyn$
1509 Thomas firadbarj
15 10 Henry Keble
1511 Roger Aichiley
1512 Sir Will. Copin^er
Ycait. LORD-MAYORs. SHERIFE.
1494 Richard Cbawry Robert F&byan, Johan Wyngar
Scholas Alwyn, Johan Warner *^^
omas Kneswortb, Henry Somyr
Johan Shaa, Richarde Haddon
Bartholomew Reed, Tho. Wyndowght
Thomas Bradbery, Steven Jenyns
Jamy« Wilfofde, Rychard Broad
Johan HawySf William Stede
Sir Laurence Aylemer, Hen. Elede
Henry Keble, Nicliolas Nynes
Chryst. Hawys, R. Wattes, T. Granger
1505 Thomas Knesworth Roger Acyhlly, WyHyam Brown
1506 Sir Richard Haddon Richard Shore, Roger Grove
1507- WiUiaa. B^ { ^fc^rf?;',?./'*"*^'
William Butler, Johan Kirkby
Thomas Rxmew, Rychard Smyth
George Monox, John Dogct .
John Milborne, John Rest
Nicholas Skelton, Tho. Mirfine
1513 W. Brown & J. Tate Robert Aldames, Robert Fenrother
15 J 4 Geom Monoux John Dawes, John Bridges
15 J 5 Sir William Butler James Yarford, John Monday
1516 John Rest Henry Warley, R. Grey, Will. Bailey
1517 Sir Thomas Exmew Thomas Seimer, John Thurston
1518 Thomas Miifin Thomas Bald rie, Ralph Si mondes •
1519 Sir James Yarford John Allen, James Spencer
John Wilkinson, Nicholas Patrich
Sir John Skevin^ton, John Kyme
John Breton, Thomas Pargetor
John Rudstone, John Cbampneis^
Michael! English, Nich. Jenines^
Ralph Dodmer, William Roch
John Caunton, Christopher Askew
Stephen Peacock, Nich. Lambert
John Hardy, William Holies
Ralph Warren, John Long ••— '
1530 Sirl'homas Pargitor Michael Dormer, Waher Champion
1531 Sir Nich. Lambard William Dauntsey, Richard Chamt>ioa
1532 Sir Stephen Peacoke Richard Gresham, Edward Altham
• *o« o- r^u • * A 1 f Rich. Reynolds, Nicholas PJnchon,l
1533 S.rChr«top.A.kew | John krtin, John Priest }
1534 Sir John Champneis William Forman, Sir Tho. Kitson
1535 Sir John Allen Nicholas Levison, Will, Denham
1536 Sir R^lph Waren Humfrey Munmoth^ John Cootes
1537 Sir
1520 Sir John Broge
1521 Sir John Milborne
1522 Sir John Munday
1523 Sir Thomas Baldry
J 524 Sir William Bailey
1525 Sir John Allen
1526 Sir Thomas Seamer
1527 Sir James Spencer
1528 Sir John Rudstone
1529 Ralph Dodmer
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360 HISTOEY AND 8URV5Y OV
Yean. LORD-MAYORS. SHE IFF«.
1537 Sir Richard Gre^iam Robert Pajpt, Wlljiam Boyer
J 538 William Formaa Sir John Uresham, Thomas Leweo
1539 Sir William Rolles William Welkenson, Nich. Gibson
1540 Sir William Roch John Fciry> Thomas Huntlow
1541 Sir Michael Dozmer Sir William Laxton, Martin Bowes
1542 JohnCootes ^Rowland Hi! U Henry Suckley
^^^^ {sijy/WaTJn^} ^^^ Habberthome,Hefi. Amcotes
1544 Sir William I^ton Joha.Toleus, Richard Dobbes
1545 Sir Martin Bowes John Wilford/ Andrew Jude
1546 Sir H. Hubarthome George Barnes, Ralph Alley
1547 Sir John Gresham Ridiard Jarvds, Thomas Corties
1548 Sir Hedry Anxx)te8 Thomas White^ Robert Cbarsey
1549 Rowland Hill William Locke, Sir John Ailife
1550 Sir Andrew Jude Richard Turke, John Yorke «— -^
1551 Sir Richard Dobbes Augustine Hind, John Lyon
1552 Sir George Barnes Jolm Lamberd, John Cowper
1553 Sir Thomas White William Gerard, John Maynaxd
1554 Sir John Lyon ThofnasOfiey, William I&^et
1555 Sir William Gerard David Woodrofe, William Chester
l§56 Sir Thomas Offley /Thomas Leigh, John Machil
1557 Su: Thomas Curties William Harper, John White
1558 Sur Thomas Leigh Richard Malorie> James Aitham
1559 Sir William Huet John Halse^ Richard Champion
1560 Sir William Chester Thomas Lodge, Roger Martin
1561 Sir William Harper Christopher Draper, Thomas R.ow
1562 Sir Thomas Lodge Aleaxnder Avenon, Hump. Baskerville
1563 Six John White Will. Alin, Richard Chamberlaine
1564 Sir Richard Malorie Edward Bankes, Rowland Hey ward
1565 Sir Rich. Champion F^dward Jakeman, Leonel Ducket
1566 Sir Christo. Draper John Rivers, James Hawes
1567 Sir Roger Martin Rich. Lambert, Ambrofe I^icholas
1568 Sir Tho?nas Rowe Thomas Ramsey, Willi^ Bond
1569 Alexander Avenon John Oleph, Rob. Harding, J. Bacoa
1570 Sir Rowl. Heyward Henry Beoher, William Dane
1571 Sir William Allen Francb Bernam, William Box
1572 Sir Leonel Ducket Henry Miles, John Branch
157/3 Sir John Rivers Riohard Pipe, Nicholas Woodrofe
15/4 James Hawes James Har vie, Thomas PuUisoo
1575 Ambrose Nicholas Thomas Blancke, Anthony Gacnage
1576 Sir John Laogley Edward Qsborne, Wolstane Dixie
1577 Sir Thomas Ramsey William Kimpton, George Bame
li7B Richard Pipe Nich. Backhouse; Francis Bowyer
1579 Sir Nich. Woodrofe George Bond, Thomas Starkie
1580 Sir John Branch Martin Gal thorp, John Hart
1581 Sir James Harvie Ralph Woodcock, JohnAlate
• 1582 Sir Thomas
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LONDON AND ITS ENTIftOKS. d6l
Ycm«. LORD MAYORS. SHERIFFS.
15S2 Sir Thos. Blanckc Richard Martin, William Webbe
1583 Edward Osborne William Rowe; John Havden
1584 Sir Edwd. PuUisoQ^Yilliam Masham, John Spencer
1585 Sir Wolftane Dixie Stephen Slany, Henry Billingsley
X5S6 Sir George Barne ^^Vnthony Radcliffe, fienry Parnell
1587 Sir Georj^e Bond Robert House, William ElRin
1588 Martin Calthorp Thomas Skinner, John Ketcher
158g Sir John Hart Hugh Ofley, Rich. Salteabtall
15gO John Allot Richard Gurney, Stephen Som«
1591 Sir Wm. Web Nicholas Mo>1ey, Robert Broke
1592 Sir Wm. Rowe William Rider^ Bennet Barnham ,
"^ {sijR'.Sf^'S }joho Gerard, Robert Taylor
I5g4 Sir John Spencer Paul Banning, Peter Hanton
15Q5 Sir Stephen Slany /Robert Lee, Thomas Bennet
^"^ {InilllkSy } Tho"" Low. Leonard Holiday
/1I597 Sir RickSaltenstalLJohn Wattes, Richard Godard
1598 Sir Stephen Some Henry Rowe, John More
1599 Sir Nich. Mosley Edward H.)Inneden, Robert Hampsoa
1600 Sir Wm, Ryder Humphrey Weld, Roger Clarke—-
1601 Sir John Gerard Robert Cambell, Thomas Smith
l6Q2 Robert Lee Henry Anderson, William Glover -
1603 Sir Thomas BcnnetJameB Pemberton, Joho Swinnjrton
1604 Sir Thomas Low ^Sir W. Rumney, Sir T. Middleton
1605- Sir Hen. Hollyday Sir Tho. Hayes, Sir Roger Jones
1606 Sir John Wats Clement Scudamor, Sir John Jolles
J 607 Sir Henry Rowe \Villi3m Walthall, John Lemon
1608 Sir Humph. Weld Geffrey Elwes, Nicholas Style
1609 Sir Tl]o. Cambell George Bolles, Rich 'rd Farrington
l6rO Sir Wm. Craven Sebastian Harvey, William Cockaine
161 1 SirJames Pemberton Richard Pyat, l-rancis Jones
J 612 SirJohn Swinnerton Edward Barkham, George Smithes
1613 Sir Tho. Middleton Edward Rolherham, Alexand. Prescot •
1^14 Sir John Haye« Thomas Bennet, Henry Jaye
1615 Sir John Jolles Peter Proby, Martin Lumley
1616 Sir John Leman William Goare, John Goare
1617 George Bolles Allen Cotton, Cuthbert Hacket
16 18 SirSebastian Harvey William Holyday, Robert Johnson
16^9 Sir Wm. Cockain Richard Hearne, Hugh Hamersley
J 620 Sir Francis Jones Richard Deane, James Cambell
1621 Sir Ed w. Barkham Edward Allen, Robert Ducie
1622 Sir Peter Pr.by George Whitmore, Nich. Raintaa
1623 Sir Martin Lumley John Hodges, Humfrey Hanford
J624 Sir John Goare y Ralph Freeman, Thomas Moulsoa
J<^25 Sir Allen Cotton ^Rowland Heili:Jr Robert Packhurst
VOL* III. A a a 1626 Sir
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862 HISTORY AN© SURVEY OP
Years-LORD MAYOKS. SHERIFFS.
1626 SirCuthbert Atet /'^^i^' .^^V^?^ Ellis Crispe, John
I Poole, Christopher Cletherowe
1627 SirHu.HawimersleyRdwardBromfieW, Richard Fenne
1628 Sir Richard Deane Maurice Abbot, Henry Garway
1629 Sir James Cambell Rowland Backhouse, Will. Acton
103O Sir Robert Ducy Humphrey Smith, Edmund Wright
1631 Sir Geo. Whitmore Arthur Abdy, Robert Cambell
1632 Sir Nich. Raynton Samuel Cranmer, Henry Prat
1633 Ralph Fieeman Hugh Perry, Henry Andrews
1634 Sir Thos. Mou?on Gilbert Harrison, Richard Gumcy
1635 Sir Rob. Packhurst John Hijrhlord, John Cottiall
1636 Sir Christ. Cletheroe Thomas Soame, John Gayer
1637 SirEdw. Bromfield William Abelt, Jacob Gerrard
1638 Sir Richard Fenn Thomas Atkyn, Rdward Rudge
'639 Sir Maurice Abbot Isaac Pennington, John Woollaston
1640 Sir Henry Garway Thomas Adams, John Wamer
1641 Sir William Acton JohnTowse, Abrah. Reyftardsata
1^42 Sir Richard Gurney George Garret, George Clarke
1643 Sir I !)aac Pennington John Langham, Thomas Andrewa
1644 Sir John Woollaston John Fowke, James Bunce
1645 Sir Thomas Atkins William Gibbs, Richard Chatnbers
1046 Sir Thomas Adams John Kendrick, Thomas Foote
1047 Sir John Gayre Thomas CulU'jn, Simond Edmonds
1648 Sir John Warner Samuel' Avery, John Bide
1649 Sir Ab. ReynardsonThomas Vyner, Richard Browne
1650 Thomas Toote CKr. Pach, Rowld. Wilson, J. Dethi^k
1651 Thomas Andrews Robert Tichbome, Richard Chiverton
1652 John Kendrick John Ireton, Andrew Ryccard
1653 John Fowkes Stephen Eastwick, Will. Underwood
^1654 Thomas Vyner James Philips, Walter Big
/ 1^55 Christo|)JpfcAi#k Edmund Sleigh, Thomas Alleyn
l656|fbhn Dethick William Thomson, John Frederidc
"^^^7 Robert Tichbome Tempest Milner, Nathaniel Temsc
16^ Richard Chi verton J. Robinson, T. Chandler, R. King
, 1659 John^^bn Anthony Bateman, John Lawrence
1660 SirJI^Kias Alleyn JF'rancis Warner, William Love, Esq.'—
1661 syPtcb. Brown /Sir W. Boulton, Sir William Peake—
1^^2 aJMoBn Fred prick Francis Minell, Samuel Starling, Esqrs.
1663 ^ John Robinson Sir Tho. Budwortb, Sir W . Turner
1664 jjji- Auth. Bateman Sir Richard Ford, Sir Richard Reeves
1665 Sir Jtihn Lawrence Sir Geo. Waterman, Sir Charies Doc
1666 .SirTho.Bludworth Sir Rob. Hanson, Sir Will. Hooker
160'^ Sir Will. Boulton ySir Robert Viner, Sir Joseph Sheldon
/1 668 Sir William Pdake^Sir Dennis Gaudcri, Sir Thomas Davis
/ 1669 Sir Wm.Tiirner John Forth, Esq. Sir Francis Chaplin
^^1^ Sir Samuel Starling Sir J. Smith, Sir James Edwards
1671 Sir
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1088
1689
LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 363
V««. LORD MAYORS. SHERIFFS,
.1671 S^ Richard Ford Samuel Ford, Patience Ward^ Esqn.
1672 Sir Geo. Waterman SirJ.Dawes, SirR.ClaytoniSirJ.Moore
J §73 Sir Robert Hanson Sir Will. Prichard, Sir James Smith
1574 Sir Wm. Hooker Sir Henry Tulse, Sir Robert Ge&ry
^1675 Sir Robert Viner Sir Nath, Heme, Sir J.LethieuUJer
^l&76 Sir Joseph Sheldon Sir Thomas Gould, Sir John Shorter
1677 Sir Thos. Davis Sir John Peake, Sir Thomas Staippe
1678 Sir Fran. Chaplin Sir Tho. Raustem, Sir John Beckford
1679 ^^' James Edwards Richard How, John Chapman, Esqrs.
1660 Sir Robert Clayton Sir Jonath. Raymond, Sir Sim. Lewis
1681 Sir Patience Ward Slingsby Bethel!, Hen. Cornish, ^sqrs-
](>82 Sir John Moore Tho. Pilkina;ton, Sam. Shute, Esqrs.
1683 Sir Wm. Prichard Sir Dudley North, Sir Peter Rich
1684 Sir Henry Tulse Peter Daniel, Sam. Dashwood, Esqrs.
1686 Sir James Smith Sir Will. Gustlyn, Sir Benj. Vandeput
1686 Sir Robert GefFery Sir Benj. Thorowgood, Sir T. Keosey
1687 Sir John Peake Sir Tho. Rawlinsoo, Sir Tho. Fowler
rSir Jchn Shorter Sir Basil Firebrace, Sir John Parsons
Sir John Eyles — no Freeman of London.
SSS^] Sir HumphiyEdwInvSir John Fleet
1690 Sir Tho. Pilkington Sir Christ. Lethieullier, Sir J. Houbloa ,
1691 Sir Tho. Pilkington Sir Edward Clarke, Sir FrancisChild
J692 Sir Thos. Stampe Sir W. Ashhprst, Sir Richard Levett
1^3 Sir John Fleet Sir Thomas Lane, Sir Thomas Cooke
1694 Sir Wm. Ashhurst Sir Tl^o Abney, Sir William Heilges
J 695 Sir Thomas Lane Sir John Sweetapple, Sir Will. Cole
1 6g6 Sir Jnhn Houblon Sir Ed. Wills, Sir Owen Buckingham,
1697 Sir Edward Clarke Sir John WoolFe, Sir Samuel Blewitt
1698 Sir Humph. Edwin Sir Barth.Gracedieu, Sir James Collett
^dgg Sir Francis Child Sir William Gore, Sir Joseph Smart
^7W Sir Rich. Levett Sir Cha. Duncombe, Sir Jeff. Jefferiet
37OJ Sir Thomas Abney Sir Rob. Beachcroft, Sir Hen. Fumeso
i-iM a- Mj /- f Sir Will. Witters, Sir Peter Floycr
1/02 Sir Wm. Gore | Sir James BatetJian
1703 Sir Sam. Dashwood Sir R.Bedding:feld, Sir Sam . Garrard
^704 Sir John Parsons Sir Gilb. Heathcote, Sir Jos. Woolto
1705 SirO. Buckingham Sir J. Buckworth, Sir W. Humphreys
1700' Sir Tho.Rawlinson Sir Charles Thorold, Sir Sam. Stanier,
i707 Sir R. Beddingfeld Sir Will. Benson, Sir Ambrose Crowley
J7O8 Sir Wm. Withers Sir Benjamin Green, Sir Charles Peers
1709 Sir Cha. Duncombe Sir Charles H.>b>on, Sir Richard Guy
1710 Sir SamUfl Garrard Sir Richard Huare, Sir Thomas Dunk
1711 Sir Gil. Heathcote Sir George Tliorold, Sir Francis Eyles
17 i2 Sir Rob. Beachcroft Sir John Cass, Sir William Stewart
i/lS Sir Richard Hoare Sir William Lc^\en, Sir Sam. Cluke
1714 Sir
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364 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
Years. LORD-MAYORS, SHERIFFS.
1714 Sir Samuel Stainier Sir Francis Forbes, Sir Joshua Sharp*
1715 SirW. Humphreys Sir Aob. Breedon, Sir Randolph Kiupe
1716 Sir Cliarleg Peers Sir John Ward, Sir John Fryer
1717 Sir James Bateman Sir Gerard Conyers, Sir Charles Cooko
17 1 8 Sir William Leweo Sir Peter Delme, Sir Harcourt Master
1719 Sir John Ward Sir John Bull, Sir Thoraai Ambrose
1720 Sir G. Thorold Sir JohnEylcs, Sir John Tash
1721 Sir John Fryer Sir George Caswall, Sir Willi Billen
1722 Sir WiU. Sicwart Sir George MerUins, Sir Ed' Beecber
1723 Sir Gerard Conyers, Humphry Parrions, Esq. Sir Fr. Child
t'TOA <i' T3 , T\\ /Sir Rich. Hopktn?, Sir Felix Feast,
1724 Sir Peter Delme { Sir Edward Bellamy
1725 Sir George Mertlins Sir Robert Baylis, Sir Joseph Eylei
I'roR e- 1? - 1? I fSir Francis Portcn, Sir Jeremiah
1726 Sir Fran, Forbes { Murden, Sir John Thompson
1727 Sir John Eyies, Bart. Sir John Lock, Sir William Ogbouro
1728 Sir Edward Beecher Sir John Grosvenor, Sir Tho. Lombe
1729 Sir Robert Baylis, Sir Richard Brocas, Rich. Levptt,Esq.
1730 Sir Richard Brocas John Barber, Esq. .^ir John Williams,-
1731 Humpu Parscns, Esq; John Fuller Esq. Sir Isnac Shard
3 732 Sir Francis Child Samuel Russel, Thoma^ Pindar, Esqrs,
' .1733 Jolui Barber, Esq j Robert Alsop, Esq, Sir Henry Hankey
1734 Sir Williana Billers R. Westley, Daniel Lambert, E«qrs.
1735 Sir Edward Bellamy Micajah Perry, Esq, Sir John Salter
1/36 Sir Jchn Williams Sir John Barnard, Sir Rob. God^cbatl
1737 Sir John Thompson Sir Will. Rous, Benj . Ra whr.g. Esq.
,738 Sir John Bamanl • { ^'t"^2:rTS"rt;?° ''""^'^- }
1739 Micajah Perry, Esq ; James Brooke, W.Wcstbrocke, F.^qrs.
1740 Sir John Salter Geo. Heathoote,Ksq,Sir J. Lt^uesne
^741 {g: LSSq ; {HenryMarsball. Ricb.Haare.Esq«.
^7^2 { G!5;atSS"q ; { «"''• ^'"''""*' Will, Sn,hh.E«i«.
1743 Rob. Willimot, Evq ; Will. Pcnn, Charles Eggleton. Esqrs.
1^44 Sir Robert Westley, Sir Robert Ladbrok*, >ir Wil. Calvert
J 745 Sir Henry Marshal, Walt. Bernard, E-q. SirSaTi. Pennant
1/46 Sir Ricl'.ard Hoare, J. Blanrhf.>rd, Fra. Cokayne, Esqrs.
1747 William Benn, Fsq ; Tho. Winterbottom, R. Al^op, Esqrs.
1748 Sir Robert L^dbroke Sir Crisp Gascoyne, El. Davie^ Esqrs,
1749 Sir William Calvert Edw. Ironside, Tho. Rawiinson Esqn.
^7«> [f I^aclTfTF^, f W.Whkaker.S. T. Janssen.R«ps.
1751 Fran. Cokayne, Esq. Will. Alexander^ Robert Scott, Esqrs
^7"{ Job!'Ai;:pX™ ['■ ^*'^''^'' ^- ^''='^"' ^^"•
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UOVDOV AKD ITS ENVIROKS. 565
Yean. LORD-MAYORS. SHERIFFS.
1753 Sir Crisp Gascoyne, Sir Chkrles Asgill, Sir Richard Olyn
1754 [|^-£;tt'nX ] Si' T. Chitty, Sir Mat. Blakistoa
1755 ^*^" '^' •^*""^? } Sir Sam. Flidyer, Sir Jcbn Torriano
1756 Srme:sb> Bcthdl Esq. Will, Beckford, Ive Whitbread Esqr»*
1757 Mar. Dickinson, F-sq. Will. Bridgen, W, Stephenson, Esqi^*
1758 Sir Charles Asgill, Geo»-ge Nelson, Fr. Gosling;, Esqrs.
J 759 Sir R.Glyn Alex, Master, J. Dandridge, E^qrs.
IJtjO Sir Thomas Chitty, Geo, Errington, Paul Vaillant Esqrs
1761 Sir Mait. Blakiston Sir Robert Kite, Sir William Hart
1762 Sir S. Fludyer, Sir Nathan Nash, Sir J. Cartwright
1763 Will. Beckford, Esq. Sir Tho. Challenor, Sir Henry Bankea
,;64 WU..Bndgen,Esq. J »<'s'^JirTu"S'E^'"'^^""'
1765 Sir W. Stephenson, Sir Thos. Harris, Brass Crosby Esq.
1767 Sir Robert Kite, 'Sir Robert Darlini;, Sir James Esdaile
176s Rl. Hon. T. Hailey Richard Pe*rs, William Na-h, Esqrs.
1769 Samuel Turner,Esq. Sic T. Hallifax; J. Shakespear, Esq.
'770 [^^ r^^lSkSq. J JamesTownsend.JSawbridge,fesqr,.
1774 Bra^s Crosby, Eq. William Baker, Joseph Martin, E*qrs.
1772 William Na^h Esq. John Wilkes, Fredt»rick Bull, Ksqrs.
1773 J. fownsend Esq. Rich. Oliver, E^^q. Sir Watkin Lewes
177"^ Fred. Buil, Esq, Steph. Sayre, Will . Lee, Esqrs.
1775 John Wilkes, Esq. William Plomer, John Hart, Esqrs.
1776 JohnSawbiidge,E^q.G. Hayl^y, N. Ne>vnham, Esqrs. ^
1777 SirT. Hallifax, Knt.Sam.Plumbe, Nath. Thomas, Esqrs.
1778 Sir J. Esdaile, Knt. Rob. Peck ham, Richard Clark, Esqrs.
1779 Samuel Plumbe E<q, John Burnell, Henry Kitchen lisqTs.
1780 Brackley Kcnnet Esq. Tho. Wrio^ht, Evan Pugh, Esqrs.
1781 Sir W. Lewes Knt. Tho, Sainsbury, Will. Crichtnn.Esqs.
1782 Sir W. Plomrr Knl. Will. Gill. Will. Nicholson Esqrs. ^
1783 Nat.Newnham Ebq. Sir R. Taylor, Knt. Renj. Cole, Esq.
1784 RobertPcckh.m.hsq. 1 S^.S^Sj^vlf "' ThoSkinoer.
■ J Will. Pickeu Esqrs.
1785 Richard Clark Esq. J. Hopkins, J. Bates, J Boyd el I Esqrs.
1786 Thomas Wright Esq. Sir J. Sanderson, Knt. B. WatsonEsq.
J787 Tho. Sainsbury Esq. Paul Le. Mesurier, C. Higgins Esqrs.
1788 John Burnell Esq. James Fenn, Matt. Qloxham, Esqrs.
1769 William Gill, Esq. ' W. Curtis, E^q. Sir B. Hammet, Knt.
1790 William Pickett Esq. Will. Newman, Thos. Baker, Esqrs.
U91 John Boydell Esq. G. M. Macauley,R. Carr Glyn, Esqrs.
179-^ John Hopkins, Esq. J.\V.AndcrsonHarvey,C.CombeEsq8.
' a . 1793 Sir
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366 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
Year.. LORD MAYORS- SHERIFFS.
3793 Sir J. Sanderson. Knt. Alex. Brander,'Benj. Tebbs, EUqn
1794 P.Le Mesurier Esq. Peter Perchard, C. Hamerton Esqrs.
1795 ThomasSkinnerEsq. Sir J. Eamef Knt. T. BurnettBsq.
IjgQ Sir Will. Curtis Bt. Rich. Glode^ John Leptrap, Esqrs.
1797 ^^^ ^' Watson,Bart Sir S. Langston, Sir W. Staines Kats.
179s SirJ.W.Anderson,Bt. Sir W. Heme Knt. R. Williams Esq.
o- -D r^ i-i - i>* fW. Champion, Peter Mellish E«q.
J799 8irR.CarrGlyn,Bt. sir C. Price. Bart. ^
Bt. [^
Esq. W.
Sir C. Price, Bart.
1800 H.Chris. Combe Esq. W. Flower John Blackall EMrs.
1801 Sir W. Suines, Knt. John Perring,Tho. Cadell, Esqrs.
1802 Sir J^ Earner, Knt. Sir W. Rawlins, Knt. W. A. Cox Es.
1803 Sir C, Price, Bart. Sir R. Welch, Sir J. Alexander Knt
1804 John Perring Esq* J. Shaw Esq. Sir W. Leighton, Knt.
1805 Peter Perchard Esq. Geo. Scholey, W. Domville Esqrs.
180^ James Shaw Esiq, John Ansley, Thomas Smith , Esqrs.
LIST OF THE
RECORDEILS OF LONDON,
As far back as could be obt^ed from ancient Records.
1293 John de Norton.
1304 Job ndeWangrave
1321 Jeffrey de Hertpoll.
1321 Robe-'t de Swalchyne.
1329 Gregory de Norton.
J 339 Roger de Depham.
1363 Thomas Lodelow.
1365 William deHalden.
1377 William Cheyne.
1389 John Tremayne» common-Serjeant.
1392 William Makenade.
1394 J< hn Cokam
J398 Matthew de Suthworth.
1403 Thomas Thornburgh.
1405 J »hn Preston.
1415 John Barton, «enior, afterwards made a Serjeant,
1422 John Fray, made lord chief baron in 1436.
1426 John Simonds.
1435 Alexander Anne.
•1440 Thomas Cockayn.
1440 William (alias John) Bowis,
1442 Robert
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LONDON AND ITS ENYIRONS. 367
1442 Robert Danvers^ common-serjeant.
145 1 Thomas Billing, iwho was afterwards made {be king's 8er->
jeanty afid at lengtb chief justice.
1455 Ttiomas Unwjck, common-serjeant, afterwards made chief
baroa»
1471 HampbreyStarkey, made chief baron in 1484.
1483. Thomas Fits- William, made Speaker of the House of Com-*
moDS in 1483.
The Recorders from this period follow in regular order.
1508 Sir Robert Sheffield, Knt.
1506 John Chalyner.
1511 Richard firook, made i. justice of Common-pleas in 1 52 1 . In
1526, made chief baron.
1530 William Shelley. In 1522, made a Serjeant. In 1527,
made a justice of the G>mmon-pleas.
1527 John Baker, one of the judges of the sheriff* courts.
1536 Sir Roger Choimley, serjeant at kw ; afterwards made king's
Serjeant ; and in 1 54 6» made chief baron .
1546 Robert Brook, oommon-serjeant. In 1554, made justice of
the Common-pleas.
1553 Ranulpb Chomley, one of the judges of the isherifTs courts
who was made chief justice of the Common-pleas.
1563 Richard Onslow. In 1556, made queen's solicitor.
1566 Thomas Bromley. In I569, madequeoo*s solicitor.
156^ Thomas Wilbranam, one of the common pleaders.
1571 William Fleetwood. In 1560^ made a seijcant. In I5g2,
made queen's seijeaot.
1591 Edward Coke. In 1606, made chief justice of the Common-
pleas* lu 1613, made chief justice of the King's-bench.
1592 Edward Drew, Serjeant at law. In I596, made a queen's
Serjeant.
1594 Thomas Flemynge^ who was degraded in 1595.
1595 John Crooke.
1636 Henry Montagu. In I610, madeking*s serjeant. In 1616,
made chief justice of the King's-bench.
1616 Thomas Coventry, one of the judges of the sheriffs courts.
In the same year made king's solicitor.
I616 Anthony Benn.
16 J 8 Richard Martin.
1618 Sir Robert Heath. In l620, made kirg's solicitor,
1620 Robert Shute.
1620 Heneage Finch. In 1623, made a serjeant.
1631 Edward Littleton. In 1634, made king's solicitor.
1634 Robert Mason.
1635 Henry Calthrop, queen's s ^.11 cI tor ; afterwards made attorney
of the court of wards.
1635 Thomu
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d68 . UlSTOEY AND SURVEY OM
1635 Thomas Gardiner.
1643 P^er Pheasant, seijeant at law.'
1643 JohnGlyn, made king's seijeant in I66O.
l04g William Steete. In 1655, made lord chief baroa.
1655 littleburn Long.
1658 John Green, one of the judges of the sherifFs coart.
1659 William Wylde. In l66it made a serjeant, and kk]g*s ser*
jeant. In 1668, made a justice of the Common-pleas. In
1672» made a justice of the King's-bench. •
1668 John Howell.
1676 Sir William Dolben. In 1677* made king's serjeanC . In
1678, madejusticeof the King's-bench.
)680 Sir George Jeffreys, common-serjeant. In I683« made
chief justice of llie King's-bench^ and afterwards lord
chancellor.
I68O Sir George Treby. In I692, made chief justice of the Com-
mon-pleas.
1683 Sir Thomas Jenner, by commission* In l685, made one of
the barons of the Exchequer.
1685 Sir John Holt, by commission.'
1687 Sir John Tate, Serjeant at law, by commission.
iQpJ Sir Bartholoi^icw Shower, by commission^ Oct. 6. Sir Geo.
Treby reinstated.
1692 Sir Salathiel Lovell, serjoant at law, in the room of Treby,
who had been restored upoq King James's re-granting the
city's liberties, and was now made justice of the Common*
pleas. In 17O8, made baron of the Exchequer.
17O8 Sir Peter King. In 1714, made chief justice of the Common-
pleas j afterwards lord chancellor.
1714 Sir William Thompson. In 1716, made king's solicitor-
general, and afterwards one of tho barons of the Ezche*
?uer.
ohn Strange, Solicitor-general. In 1742," made master
of the Rolls.
1742 Sir Simon Urlin, serjeant at law.
J 746 John Stracey, Esq. senior judpe of the sheriffs court.
1749 Sir Richard Adams, senior of the four common pleaders. Id
1753, made a baron of the Exchequer.
1 753 Sir Wm. Moreton, senior judge of the sheriffs court.
1763 Sir James Eyre, senior city counsel, made a baron of the Ex-
chequer in 1772.
1 772 John Glyn, Esq. serjeant at law, and member for Middlesex.
^779 Jame^ Adair, Esq. serjeant at law.
1789 Sir J. W. Rose.
1803 John Silvester, Esq.
CHAP. xxxy.
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U>KDON'AKD ITS ERVIBOKB. 359
CHAP. XXXV.
Of ike Antiquity and present GGvernment of the City of
iVestminster,
Westminster received its name from the abbey,
or minster, situated to the westward of the city of
London, which, according to several historians, was
thus denominated to distinguish it from the Abbey
of Grace, on Tower-hill, called ]?^stminster ; but
Maitland proves this to be a mistake, by showing-
that the former is called Westminster, in an undated
Charter of Sanctuary, granted by £dward the Con*
fessor, who died in 1066, and that the latter was not
founded till \ii59: he therefore supposes, that the
appellation of Westminster was given to distinguish
it from 6t. Paul's church, in the city of Juondon.
In ancient times, this was a mean, unhealthy
place, remarkable for nothing but the Abbey, which
was situated on a marshy island, surrounded on one
side by the Thames, and on the other by what was
called Long Ditch. This ditch was a branch of the
river, which began nearly where Manchester-build*
ings now stand; and crossing King-street, ran west*
ward to Delalhay street, Where it turned to the south,
and continued its course along Princes-street, until
it crossed TothilUstreet, from whence it passed along
the south wall of the Abbey-garden, to the Thames
again. It has, however, been arched over for many
years, and is at present a common sewer.
This island was, exclusive of the minster, an entire
waste, and so overgrown with thotnsand briers, that
it obtained the appellation of Tborney Island. In
process of time, howev^, a few Jiouses were erected
toL^ III. B b b round
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S70 uisToair and survey or
round t^e monastery, which, at length, grew into a
small town, called in ancient books, '* The Town of
Westminster/' But the principal cause of the in-
ttease of Westminster, was the continual jealousy of
the government against the privileges and immuni-
ties claimed by the citizens of London. To this cause
must be attributed the establishment of the wool-
staple, at Westminster, in preference to London,
which occasioned a great resort of merchants thither.
Another cause of its growth, was, the royal residence
being generally »here ; for which reason, most of the
<;;Jiief nobility also erected inns, or town-houses, in its
vicinity, the sites of many of which still retain the
names of their former owners.
Westminster continued for many ages a distinct
town from London, and the road between them, on
the sides of which the street called the Strand was
afterwards built, passed along the river side, and
through the village of Charing. This road, however,
from the frequent passing of horses and carts, had
become so dangerous both to men and carriages, that
in the year 1 ^35 J,- a toll was laid on all merchandize
and provisions carried to the staple of Westminster,
for repairing it. In 1 J85, it was new paved from
Temple-bar to the Savoy ; and some years after, by
the interest of Sir Robert Cecil, who had an elegant
mansion where Cecil-street now stands, the pave-
* ment was continued as far as his house.
In course of time, Westminster became a place of
some consideration ; but it received its most distin-
giiished honours from Henry VIII. *who, on the dis-
solution of the monastery of St Peter, converted it
into a bishopric, with a dean and twelve prebenda-
ries ; and appointed the whole county of Middlesex,
except Fulham, which was to remain to the Uishop
of London, for its diocese. On this Occasion West-
minster became a city; for the making of which,
^ according:
J?
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LONDON AND ITS EKVIAONS. :)71
according to Lord Chief Justice Cc^e, nothing
more is required, than to. be the Wat of episcopal
power.
The old palace, near the Abbey, having been nearly
destroyed by fire in 1512, Henry VIH. took up hk
residence at Whitehall, which he purchased, in 1530>
of Cardinal Wolsey. He aik> built the palace of St.
James, and inclosed a fine spot of ground, which he
converted into a park, fbr the accommodation of both
palaces.
From this period, the buildings about Westmin^
stcr b^an greatly to increase t but it did not long
^njoy the honour of b^ng a city ; for it never had
but one bishop, Thomas Thirlby, who being translated
to the see of Norwich, by Edward VI. in 1 550, the
new bisho[Nric was dissolved, and its right to the
epithet of city was thereby lost. However, West-
minster is still considered as a city, and is so stiled
in our statutes.
The city of Westminster, properly so called, con-
sists but of two parishes, viz. St. Margaret and St.
John the Evangelist; but the liberties contain seven
parishes, which are as follow: St. Martin, in the
Fields, St. James, St. Anne, St. Paul, Covent-garden,
St. Mary-le-Strand, St. Clement Danes, and St.
George, Hanover-square; to which must be added,
the precinct of the Savoy, and that of St. Martin4e-
Grand.
The government of both the city and liberties of
Westminster is under the jurisdiction of the Dean
and Chapter of St. Peter's, as well in civil as in ec^
clesiastical affairs, whose authority also extends to
some towns in Essex, and the whole of their district
is exempt from the jurisdiction of the Bishop of
of London, and of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
Since the Reformation, the management of the eivil
part of the government has been in the hands of lay-
f men,
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372 HIStORT AND SURVEY OF
meo, elected, or, wben appcMnted by their pnncipate,
confinoed by the ikan and chapter.
The tbrm of the civil ffovemmeDt of Westnunatef
naa aettlad by ^m act of parHaiDeae passed in the
STtki of Queen Eliflabeth, iDlituled, '^ An Act for
the good iiovemment of the City and Borough of
Westminster;'^ vihkh <iiecta the appointment of
twelve buigeaaes, and twelve asaislants^ annually, to
pi«aide over the twelve wank into which Weatmin-
ster was at that time divided; and gives power t?o
the dean, high steward, or his deputy, and the
twelve burgesses, or any three of them, whereof
the dean, high stewaid, or his deputy, to be one, to
bear, determine, and punish; according to the laws
of the realm, or lavdahle and lawful customs of the
city of London, all matters of incontinency, eommon
scolds, inmates, common annoyances, &c« and to
commit persons ofiendi«g against the peace, to pri-
son; but to ^ive notice, within twenty-four hours,
to some justice of the peace for the county. • Ail
good orders and ordinances, made by the dean and
high steward, with the assistance of the burgesses,
concerning the government of the inhabitants, and
not repugnant to the queen^s prerc^tive, or the laws
of the land, to be of ftill force and strength.
Though the increase of the liberties ^ Westmin-
ster has rendered some alterations in this statute ne-
cessary, yet the substance of it is still the basis of
,the government of this city.
The first of these magistrates is the high steward,
who 19 usually one of the chief nobthty, chosen by
the dean and chapter. His oflice has sonoe lenity
to that of a chancellor of an university ; and he holds
his place during life. On his death, or resignation,
a chapter is called for the election pf another, m
whitrh the dean sits as high steward, until the elec«
tion is determiiied.
The
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L0V90N ANA IM EmmOX^i ^S
Hie deputjr stewaid la appoiulad by ti» bigk
iMemrd^ and confiimfid by the dean and chapte.
He la cbainnan of tbe oourt-leet; t>y wkiGh the high
GODstsible^ the petty canstaUea, and the aimoyaiica
JQriea aie appoioted.
The high bailiff is Dominated by the dean, and
confinoed by the high steward, and holds his place
for life. He is leturning officer at the election tat
memhera of parliament, wd enjo^ considerable pro«-
fits from fines, forfeitures, &c. The office is gene-
rally executed by a deputy, who is m attorney of
repute.
The burgesses are at present sixteen in number;
each of whom has an assistant. They are nearly si-
milar to the aldermen and deputies in the city of
Londi>n; but the exercise of their office is now prin-
cipally confined to attending the courts leet, &c.
Under the high constable, who cannot hold his
office more than three vears, are eighty pet^ con-
stables, appointed annually, at Michaelmas, viz. four-
teen for the parish of St. Margaret; four for the pa-
rish of St. John, the Evangelisf; twelve for the parish
of St. George, Hanover-^quare; fourteen for the pa-
rish of St. Martin in the Fields; fourteen for the pa-
rish of St. James; eight for the parish of St. Anne;
six for the parish of St. Paul, Covent-garden ; ^\k
for the parish of St. Clement Danes; and two for'
the parish of St. Mary-le-Strand.
Before the year 1696, the inhabitants of West-
minster were liable to be called upon to serve as
jurors at the quarter sessions for the county of Mid-
dlesex ; but a clause was introduced into an act,
passed in that yeapfor regulating jurors, by which
they were exempted from this duty.
Notwithstanding the great extetit of Westminster,
the government of it bears but little resemblance to
that of a large city; the inhabitants have no exclu-
sive
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374 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
sive OHporatidn privileges, nor are there any trading
companies witbifi its jurisdiction. The two mem-
bers who represent it in parliament, like those of a
eonmon country borough, are chosen by the inhabi-
tant householders at large ; and the only courts held
in Westminster^ are, the court-leet, the quarter ses-
sions, and two courts of requests, for the recovery
of small debts. Westminster has, however, long
be^i the seat of the royal palace, the high court of
parliament, and of our law tribunals.
CHAP. XXXVI.
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LONDON AMD ITS EHYIBOKS. 374
CHAP. XXXVL
Of the CUy of f^esfminster, — WeUminsleT" Alley, — Hennf
the Seventh's ChapeL — The Cloisters. — The Chapter^
House. — The Sanctuary, — 5/, MargareCs Church,-^
tVestminsttr^Hall. Courts of Justice. House of
Lords. — House of Commons. — Painted Chamber.
Westmimter^School. — St. John^s Church.
The city. of Westminster, as has been already
observed, coutains but two parishes; viz. St. Ma*^-
garefs and St, John's. We shall begin the survey
of this part of the metropolis with the former, the
most remarkable building in which, is the ancient
abbey church dedicated to St. Peter.
There are so many miraculous stories related of
the foundation of this abbey, in the legends of
monkish writers, that by this enliglitened age the
bare recital would hardly be excused : all that can
with truth be said, amounts only to this, that Sebert,
king of the East-Saxons, who died in 6 1 6, being by
Austin's preaching, and his uncle Ethelbert's exam-
ple, converted to Christianity, threw down the tem-
ple of Apollo, west of London, and there most de-
voutly erected a church, which he dedicated to the
honour of St. Peter, prince of the apostles, and ap-
ppinted Mellitus,' then bishop of London, to conse-
crate it accordingly. Ranulphus, indeed, does not
particularly mention Sebert, but has these remark-
able words, '* That some one, at the instigation of
Ethelbert, built a church to the honour of St, Peter
in the west part of the city of London, in a place
called Thorney, which signifies an island of thorns,
but is now called Westminster.''
Sir Christopher Wren, however^ whose opinion
is by no means to be contemned, r^ects as fabulous
2 the
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ajS HISTORY AND 8URYKT CF
the notion of a temple to Apollo in Tboraey iriand ;
and the rather, because it is said to be destroyed by
an earthquake in the reign of Antonius Pius, in or-
' der to make way for a Christian church to be erected
by King Lucius upon its ruins. Sir Christopher, to
strengthen his opinion, declares, that when he was
employed to survey Westmjnster-abbey, though he
examined both the walls and ornaments about it
with the nicest care, yet he couid neither discover
the least fragment of cornice or capital, to indicate
the work of a Roman builder, which he thinks he
must undoubtedly have done, had the fact been
true, as eardiquakes break few stones, though they
overturn edifices.
The dedication of this ancient abbey is a matter
as uncertain as. the foundation of it ; the church
historians will have it miraculous, and none but
St Peter himself, though dead five hundred yearn
before, must be admitted to that honour.
The king had ordered Mellitus to perform the
ceremony, out St. Peter, as the legend says, was
beforehand with him; for over>night he called upon
Edricus, a fisherman, and desired to be ferried over
to Thorney, which happened to be then flooded
round by heavy rains: the fisherman obeyed, and
the apostle (having* consecrated the church, amidst a
grand chorus of heavenly music, and a glorious ap»
pearance of burning lights, of which Edricus was
both an ear and an eye-witness,) discovered himself
on his return, and bid the fisherman tell Mellitus
what he had heard and seen ; giving him at the
same time, a specimen of his divine mission, by a
miraculous draught of salmon, of which kind of
fish, when in season, the apostle assured him, none
of his occupation should ever want, provided they
honestly ma!de an offering of the tenth fish to the
use of the newljj^ consecrated churck This custom
appears
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 377
appears to have been continued until the end of the '
fourteenth century.
That the above romantic tale was generally cre-
dited for many ages after, is evident from two royal
charters. The first is a charter of King Edgar, who
says, " this church was dedicated by no less than
St. Peter, the Prince of Apostles, to his own ho-
nour.'^ The other is a charter of Edward the Con-
fessor, which is still more explicit, affirming it to
be " dedicated by St. Peter himself with the at-
tendance of angels, by the impression of the holy
cross, and the anointment of the holy chrism.'^
This church and its monastery were repaired and
enlarged by OfFa, King of Mercia ; but being de-
stroyed by the pagan Danes, they were rebuilt by
Edgar, who endowed them, and in the year 969,
granted them many ample privileges. But having
again suffered by the ravages of the Danes, Edward
the Confessor pulled down the old church, and
erected a most magnificent one for that age in its
place, in the form of a cross, which was begun in the
year 1049? and became a pattern for that kind of
building.
The work being finished in the year 1066, he
caused it to be consecrated with the greatest pomp
and solemnity ; and by several charters not only
confirmed all its ancient rights and privileges, bvt
endowed it with many rich manors and additional
immunities; and the church, by a bull of Pope
Nicholas!, was constituted the place for the in-'
auguration of the Kings of England. But as
an abbey in those days would have been nothing
without relics, here were to be found the veil
and some of the milk of the Virgin ; the blade-
bone of St. Benedict; the finger of St. Alphage ;
the head of St. Maxilla ; and half the jaw-bone of
St. Anastasia.
VQL. III. ccc William
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-J78 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
William the Conqueror, to show his regard to
the memory of his late friend King Edward, no
sooner arrived in London, than he repaired to this
church, and offered a sumptuous pall, as a covering
for Edward's tomb. He also gave fifty marks of
silver, together with a very rich altar-cloth, and two
caskets of gold ; and the Christmas following was
solemnly crowned there, which was the first coro-
nation performed in that place.
The next prince that. undertook to enlarge this
great work was Henry III. who built a chapel to
the Blessed Virgin, then called the new work at
Westminster, the first stone whereof he laid him-
self on Saturday. before his coronation, in the year
1220. But about twenty years after, finding the
walls and steeple of the old. structure much de-
cayed, he pulled them all down, with a design to
enlarge and rebuild them in a more regular manner.
He commenced this great work in 124-0, in the
style of architecture which began to prevail in his
days, but did not c^ny it further than four arches
west of the middle^ tower ; and the vaulting of this
part was not completed until 1296. He did not live
to accomplish his design. It was continued by his
successor, and carried on slowly by succeeding
princes ; and from the portcullises on the roof of
the last arches it appears, that either Heniy VH. or
• VIIL had spme concern in it, that being the device
of these monarchs. The building was never finished,
the great tower and the two western towers remain-
ing incomplete at the Reformation, after which the
two present towers were erected.
About the year 1502, Henry VII. began that
magnificent structure, which is now generally called
by his name : for this purpose, he pulled down the
chapel of Heiu'y III. already mentioned, and an ad*
joining hoL^^j, called the White Rose Tavern. This
chapel,
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS^ 379
chapel, like the former, he dedicated to the Blessed
Virgin ; and designing it for a burial place for him-
self and his posterity, he carefully ordered in hi9
will, that none but those of royal blood should be
permitted to lie therein : and, for the health ^f his
soul, he procured a bull from the Pope, for uniting
te this abbey ^the collegiate church of St. Martin's-
le-grand, and the manor of Tykill, in Yorkshire, for
the maintenance of a chauntry of three monks and
two lay bretliren. This was the origin of the juris-
diction of the dean and chapter of Westminster, in
St. Martin's-le-grand. *
On the general suppression of religious houses,
the abbey was surrendered to Henry V 111, by Wil*
liam Benson, the abbots dnd seventeen of the
monks, in the year \f>b9^ when its revenues
amounted, according to Speed, to three thousand.
Dine hundred and seventy-seven pounds, six shil-
lings and four-pence per annum, a sum, at least
equal to twenty thousand pounds a year of present ,
money. Besides its furniture, which was of ii^*
estimable value, it had, in different parts of the
kingdon), no' less than two hundred and sixteen
manors, seventeen hamlets, with ninety-seven towns
and villages ; and though the abbey was only the se«
cond in rank, yet in all other respects it was the chief
in the kingdom, and its abbots had a seat in the
house of lords.
, The abbey being thus dissolved, Henry VUI.
erected it first into a college of secular canons, un-
der the government of a dean, an honour which he
chose to confer on the last abbot. This establish-
inent, however, was of no long duration, for two
years after he converted it into a bishopric, whicli
was dissolved nine years after by Edward VI. who
restored the government by a dean^ whiph Continued
till Mary's accession to the crown »
"^ In
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^80 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
Id 15579 Queen Mary restored it to its ancient
conventual state: but Queen Elizabeth again ejected
the monks, And, in 1560, erected Westminster Ab*
bey into a college, under the government of a dean,
and twelve secular carious or prebendaries. She also
founded a school for forty scholars, denominated the
Queen'^, to be educated in the liberal sciences, pre^i^
paratory to the university, and to have all the neces-
saries of life, except cloathing, of which they Were to
have only a gown every year. To this abbey belong
choristers, singing*m^n, an organist, twelve alms-
men, &c.
No very material alterations were made in the out-
ward structure of this church after the death of
Henry YII. till the time of King William and Queen
Mary; when it became the object of parliamentaiy
concern, and was rescued from that ruin into which
it was falling, by a thorough reparation at the national
expense ^ and though the ravage that was made
within it by Henry VIII. and the havoc without it,
during the unhappy civil commotions that deiiaced
the ancient beauty of all the religious houses in this
kingdom, can never be recovered; yet by the labour
and skill of Sir Christopher Wren, and those who
succeeded him, it has been decorated with such or-
naments as have rendered the building more com-
plete than it had ever been.
This venerable fabric has been new coated on the
outside, except that part called Henry the Sevenih'a
Chapel, which is, indeed, a separate building; and
the west end has been adorned with two new stately
towers, that have been thought equal, in point of
.workmanship, to, any part of the original building,
^ut though such pains were taken in the coating, to
preserve theancientGothic grandeur, thatthis church,
in its distant prospect, has all the venerable majesty
of its former state, y6t the beautiful carving with
which
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LONDON AVB ITS KKYIRONS. 381
ynbich it was once adorned, is inetrieyably lost: the
buttresses once coped with free-stone, and the sta-
tues of our ancient kings, that formerly stood in
niches, near the top of those buttresses, are for the
most part removed. Some of. these statues are still
standing next the towers, on the north side, and,
indeed, it is on this side that an oiatward view of the
Abbey mQ$t be taken, the other being so incumbered
with buildings, that even its situation can hardly be
distinguished.
In viewing the outside of this building, the atten*
tion is particularly engaged by the magnificent por-
tico that leads into the nort^ cross, which has been
stiled The Beaulifulj or SoIomon^Sj Gate. It is pro-
bable, that this was built by Richard II. asliis arms^
carved in stone, were formerly over the gate.
This portico is Gothic, and extremely beautiful; .
and over it is a most elegant window of modern date,
and admirably well executed. On the south side is
a window, set up in 1705, which is likewise very
masterly. But the principal beauties of this structure
are to be found within.
The length of the building, from east to west, is
three hundred and seventy-five feet, measuring from
the steps leading to Henry the Seventh's Chapel.
The length of the cross, from north to south, is one
hundred and ninety-five feet; and the breadth of the
nave and side aisles is seventy-two feet. The height,
from the pavement of the nave to the inner roof, is '
one hundred feet, and from the choir pavement to the
roof of the lantern, is one hundred and forty feet.
On entering the west door, the whole body of the
church presents itself at one view ; the pillars which
divide the nave from th^ side aisles being so curi-
ously formed as not to obstruct the side openings;
nor is the sight terminated to the east, but by me
fine painted window over the portico of Henry
Vllth's
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382 HISTORY AKD SUftVKV 6r
Vllth 8 chapel, which, anciently, when the altars
low, and the beautiful shrine of Edward the Confes-
sor was included in the prospect, must have afforded
one'of the grandest sights the imagination can paint.
These pillars terminate toward the east by a sweep,
thereby iQplosing the chapd of Edward the Confes-
sor in a kind of semi-circle: and it is worthy of obser-
vation, that, as far as the gates of the choir, the
pillars are filleted with brass, but all beyond wiA
free-9tone; from which circumstance, some take oc-
casion to determine the bounds of the different en-
largement of this church at different times, but with
much uncertainty. Answerable to the middle range
of pillars are others in the walls, which, as they rise,
spring into semi-arches, and are every where met in
acute angles by their opposites; thereby throwinff
the roof into a varietyof segments of arches, decorated
with ornamental carvings at the closing and crossings
of the lines. On the arches of the pillars are galle-
^ ries of double columns, fifteen feet wide, covering
the side aisled, and enlightened by a middle range
of windows, over which there is an upper range of
larger windows; by these and the under range, to-
gether with the four capital windows, facing ,the
north, east, south, and west, the whole fabric is ad-
mirably enlightened.
At the bottom of the walls, between the columns,
are shallow niches, arched about eight or ten feet
high, on which the arms of the original benefactors
are depicted ; and over them, in Saxon characters,
their titles, &;c. but these are almost all hid from the
sight, by the monuments of the dead being placed
before them. 4 > . ^
The next objects of attention, are, the fine paint-
ings in the great west window, of Abraham)
Isaac, and Jacob; Moses and Aaron, and the twelve
patriarchs; the arms of King Sebert, King Edward
3 • *tLe
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IjONDON and its £NV1E09S. 383
the Confessor, Queen Elizabeth, King George II. ,
and Dean Wilcox, Bishop of Rochester. This win-
dow was set up in the year 173::$, and is very curious.
To the left of it, in a less window, is a painting
of one of our kings, supposed to be Richard IL
but the colours being of a water blue, the features of
the face cannot be distinguished. In tbe window,
on the other side the great window, is a lively repre-
sentation of Edward tbe Confessor, in his robes, add
uader his feet his arms painted. These are the most
perfect of the many remains of this ancient art, to be
seen in the different windows of the Abbey.
After surveying this part of the church, the next'
thing to be noticed is the choir, which may always
be seen during divine service, and at other times is
shown to those who pay for seeing the monuments
in the north cross and western end of the Abbey.
Tbe grand entrance to it is by a pair of beautiful iron
gates, and tlifi floor is paved with black and white
marble. The stalls in this choir were formerly painted
of a purple colour, and in it, near the pulpit, was an
ancient portrait of Richard II. six feet eleven inches
high, by three feet seven inches bix)ad. He is repre-
sented sitting in a chair of state, with a globe in one
hand, and the sceptre in the other; a crown on his
head, and his dress, which is a green vest tlowered
with gold, extremely rich and elegant, and marked
in many places with his initial R, surmounted by a
crown. The countenance of this portrait is remarkably
fine and gentle, little indicative of his had and op-
pressive reign. Latterly, the choir has undergone a
considerable alteration in the position of the stalls
and seats, which are rendered much more commo-
dious for public worship, and are so contrived, that
they can be removed to make room foi' the celebra-
tion of any service which requires greater space, and
c^ be replaced without injury, or much expense.
Since
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3d4 HISXO&V AND SVRYEV OF
SiDce this improvement, the portrait of Richard has
been bung up in the Jerusalem chamber.
Beyond the choir is the fine altar, surrounded with
a curious balustrade, within which is a pavement of
Mosaic work, made at the charge of Abbot Ware,
' and said to be the most beautiful in its kind of any
in the world- By some Latin verses it appears, that
it is composed of porphyry, and some other stones of
various colours, and that it was laid in the year 1379-
This beautiful pavement sustained irreparable in-
jury during a fire, which destroyed the roof of the
lantern above it, on the 9th of July, 1803. The fire
was occasioned by the negligence of some plumbers,
who were employed to repair the lead work of the
roof, and, for a short time, seemed to threaten the
destruction of this venerable pile ; for the height of
the phce is such, that water was not conveyed to it
without great difficulty. Happily, however, it was
extinguished without comn^unicating to the long
timber roofe, which extend in every direction from
this common center of the building; and the damage
has been since repaired with so much skill, that,
when the freshness is worn off the new work, it will
scarcely be distinguishable from the old.
The altar, which formerly stood in a chapel at
Wl^itehall, is a stately and beautiful piece of white
- marble, and was removed from the stores at Hampton-
court, in the year 1707, by order of her late majesty
Queen Anne, who presented it to this church. There
is, however, a striking impropriety in the appearance
of an elegant specinaen of Grecian architecture, as
a part of a Gothic temple. On each side the altar are
marble doors, opening into St. Edward's chapel,
where, at their coronation, our kings retire to refresh
themselves.
The chapel of St. Edward the Confessor is inclosed
in the body of the church, at the east end of the
choir,
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LONI>ON AND ITS KNTIR0M5. S65
choir, and directly behind the altar. The. principal
object in this chapel is the ancient shrine, erected by
Henry III. to the memory of Edward the Confessor,
King of England, and the last of the Saxon race. He
died ia the year 1066, and was canonized in ]969»
by Pope Alexander III. who caused his name to be
placed in the catalogue of saints, and issued his bull '
to the Abbot Lawrence, and the Convent of West-*
minster, enjoining, ** That his body be honoured her«
on earth, and his soul be glorified in heaven/' A
cloistered life was his sole happiness; and though he
was married eighteen years to one of the most ac-
complished women of her time, daughter to Earl
Godwin, yet 'tis said, she confessed on her death-bed,
he suffered her to hve and die a virgin. This shrine^
which was once esteemed the glory of England, is ,
now much defaced and neglected. It was composed
of stones of various colours, beautifully enriched
with all the cost and art that human imagination
could project; and consists of three rows of arches,
the lower pointed, the upper round ; and on each side
of the lower is a most elegant twisted pillar: a lamp
was kept continually burning before it. On one side
stood a silver image of the Blessed Virgin, which,
with two jewels of immense value, were presented
by c^ueen Eleanor, the wife of Henry III. On the
other side stood another image of the Virgin Mary,
wrought in ivory, presented by Thomas Beckett
Archbishop of Canterbury. To this shrine Edward I.
offered the Scots regalia and chair, in which the kings
of Scotland used to be crowned. About the year
1280, Alphonst), third son to Edward I. offered here
the golden coronet of Llewellyn, Prince of A Vales,
and other jewels.
The beautiiiil mosaic pavement of this chapel was
the performance of Peter Cavalini, inventor of that
f OL, III. odd species
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396 UISTOltY AND SUBYEY OF
species of ornament* It is supposed that he was
brought into Eng.dMd by the abbot Ware, who visi-
ted Itome in 13ob. M eever, in his i^'uneral Monu-
ments, says; " He brought from thenc& certain
vcrknien, and rich porpbery stones, whereof ho
made that curious, singular, rare pavement before the
high altar; and with these stones -and workmen he
did also frame the shrine of Edward the jCoofesaor/"
This shrine is now so stripped as to afford but
little satisfaction, except to the curious ; however,
some of the stone-work with which it was adcnrned
is still to be seen. This stone work Is hollow
within, and now encloses a, large chest, .which
Mr. Keep, soon aftar the coronation of James II.
ipund to contain the remains of St. Edward ; foe
it being broken by accident, he discovered a
number of bones, and turning them up, found a
crucifix richly ornamented and enamelled, with
a gold chain twenty inches long, both wldch he
presented to the king, who ordered the bones to
be r^'placed in the old coffin, and inclosed in a
new one made very strong, and bound with iron.
In this chapel are several other memorials of de^
ceased royalty on the south side of the shrine lies
Editha, Queen to St. Edward, one of the most ae«
complished women of her age, w.ho survived her
husband eight years, and beheld all the miseries eon-
sequent on his dying without issue. She was how-
ever treated with great respect by William the
Conqueror^ who allowed her an apartment in his pa •<
lace at Winchester, where she died, and was interred
here, by his express orders.
On the north side of the chapel is the tomb of
Henry III. the pannels of which are of polished p(H-
phyry, surrounded by mosaic work of scarlet and
gold. At the corners are twisted pillars, gilt and
3 enamelled;
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LOHDOK ASD ITS EHTIItOKS. 98?
enamelled ; and upon it is the efiigy of that king in
brass, gilt, finely executed, and supposed to be the
first brazen statue cast in this kingdom.
At the feet of Henry III. is a table monument of
grey«arble^ on which lies the effigy of Eleanor,
<|oeen to Edward L It is remarkable that only the
body of this qnieen was interred here, and that her
heart was placed in the choir of the Friftrs Predi-
cants, in London.
tTere is also a large plain coffin of grey marble,
composed of 45even stabs; four of which form the
sides, two the dids, and one the cover. This rough
onpolished tomb incloses the remains of Edward I.
jQst m^entioned, who was named m honour of the
Confessor, and surnamed Longshanks, from his tall
and slender habit of body.
On the south side of this chapel is a black mHrbli
monument to the memory of Fhiiippa, queen of Ed*
ward III. to whom she was married forty-two yeaWj
and bore him fourteen children. Edward bestowed
a profusion of expense on her tomb, round which
Were placed, as ornaments, the brazen statues of
thirty kings, princes, and noble personages her
fektions.
' Adjoining to this under a gothie canopy, is the
tomb of Edward III. The effigy of this prince is
placed recumbent upon a table of gTey marble, and
though his tomb is distinct from that of the queen,
yet their bodies were deposited in the same grave,
according to her request on her death bed. Like the
former, this tomb is surrounded with statues, parti-
cularly those of his children ; and at the head of it
are placed the sword and shield carried before him
in France. The sword is seven feet long and weighs
eighteen pounds.
Next to this is a tomb erected to the memory of
Richacd II. and his first consort Anne ; over which
is
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988 fllSTOEY AND SUETBT Of
is a canopy of wood, remaiicabiefor a curious paiot*
i^^9 still visible upon it, of our Saviour and the
Virgin Mary. This prince was murdered in Pomfinet
(.'astte, on Valentine's day, in the year 1399- The
robing of his effigy is curiously wrought with peas-
cod shells open and the peas out, supposed to be in
allusion to his having been once in full possession of
sovereignty, which, before his murder, was reduced
to an empty title.
In this chapel are deposited the coronation chairs
of our kings and queens, the most ancient of which,
as has been already mentioned, was brought with the
regalia from Scotland, by King Edward L in tha
{ear 1S97, and offered at the shrine of St EdwanL
Jnder the seat of this chair is a square stone,
which, according to the Scots tradition, is believed
to have been Jacob's pillow. The other chair was
made for Mary IL At the coronation, one or both
of these chairs, as circumstances require, are cover-
ed with gold tissue, and placed before the altar, be-
hind which they now stand.
Along the frieze of the screen of this chapel are
fourteen legendaiy sculptures respecting the Con-
fessor, The first is the trial of Queen £mma ; thi?
second, the birth of Edward; the next his corona-
tion ; the fourth represents the manner in which he
was terrified into the abolition of the dane-gelt,
by seeing the devil dance upon the money casks ;
the fifth is the story of his winking at a thief who
was robbing his treasury ; the sixth is intended to
represent the appearance of our Saviour to him ;
the seventh shows how the invasion of England
wa^ frustrated by the drowning of the Danish king ;
the eighth represents the quarrel between the boys
Tosti and Harold, predicting their respective fates ;
the ninth contains the Confessor's vision of the
«»even sleepers; the tenth shows his meeting with
St.
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LOSDON AND ITS SNYIl^ONS. 38ft
St. John the Evangelist, in the disguise of a pilgrim;
the eleventh, the curing the blind by washing their
eyes in his dirty water; the twelfth represents St*
John deiivering to the pilgrims a ring; in the tbir«
teenth they deliver the ring to the king which he had
unknowingly given to St. John as an alms, when he
met him in the form of a pilgrim : this was attended
with a message from the saint, foretelling the death
of the king ; and the fourteenth shows the conse-
quent haste made « by him to complete his pious
foundation.
The chapel of Henry the Fifth is only separated
J&om that of ^. Edward by an iron screen, on each
side of which are images as large as life, * guarding,
as it were, the staircase ascending to the chantiv
over it. In it is his monument, which is of blacK
marUe, surrounded with iron rails and gates, and on
it is placed his statue made of heart of oak; but the
head, with the sceptre and r^alia being, of beaten
silver, were sacrilegiously stolen, according to the
account of the guides, in the time of Oliver Crom-
well. The beautiful gothic inclosure of this tomb
was erected by Henry YU. in compliment to his illus-
trious relation and predecessor; but he paid less res-
pect to the memory of his grandmother, Catherine,
the relict of this prince, who was interred in the
chapel of the Virgin. When Henry VII. ordered
that to be pulled down to make way for his own
magnificent chapel, he neglected her remains,
which he suffered to be carelessly flung into a wooden
chest and removed into this chapel.
On each side of this chapel is a winding staircase,
inclosed in a turret of iron work, the tops of which
spread into roofs of uncommon elegance. These
stairs kad to a thantry, over the chapel, from
which the inner part of the Confessor's shrine can
be sMn. Here are a helmet, shield and saddle, which
ar^'
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/
;3^ tflSTORY AN0 SU&VEV QfT .
are belieted to* be those u&ed by Ueniy V« M tHe
b)Bi4fde of Agiucourt) and brought here, as the cusMa
^a^, at his fiinemk The various models designed
by Christopher Wren* and other eminent architects,
which had remained for many years in an obscure
pArt of this church, were brought here jn 1779.
The section of the Abb^, with the spire, as designed
by Sir Christopher, is greatly admir^.
Arbund the chapel of St Edward ace nine chapels^
besides that of Henry the seventh, which a|^
pear not to have been comprehended in the origimil
pl^n of thn building, though tliey were eneeted
by H6nry HI. Beginning at the north crosb and
passing round to the south they are in the follow^-
, ilig order: St. Andrew's; St. Michael's; St. Joha
the (^Evangelist's ; (slip's, or St John the Baptist's ;
St Erasmus's; St Paul's;. St. NIcholsig's; Sl £d-
mund's aind St. Benedict's.
These chapels with the whole of the aiiea,- theatale^
the nave, and the north and south crosses are fiUed
with* such a wilderness of monumentsy liiat it
would require a volunoie to give the descriptions
of them all ; we shall therefore confine oursehres to ^
noticing some of the most remarkable.
In St. Michael's chapel is a monument to die
memory of Joseph Gascoigne Nightingale- and his
lady, which is one of the capital performances of
that great master in sculpture, Roubiliac, and is vi-
sited and admired by all judges of el^nce and
ingenuity. . '
-Above is represented a lady expiring ia the wms
of her husband ; and beneath, slily creeping fnom a
tomb, the Jiing of terrors presents hij^ grim vi-
sage, pointing his unerring dart to the dying figure^
at which sight the huHband, struck with astonish-
ment, horror and despair,'endeavours to waixl off the
fatal stroke from^the distressed object of his caie.
On
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liMIDON A1II> 1T$ 1^NVIfi098. 891
Oa it 18 the foUowiDg^ inscription; " Here rest the
aabes cS Joseph Gaacoigne Nightingale, of Mamhea<lj
in the county of Devon, Esq. who died July the
20tb, 1752, i^ed 56; and of lady Elizabeth his'
ivife, daughter and coheireas of Waabington,/{^rL'
Ferrers, who died August the 17th, 1734, aged S7**
Their only «:»n Washington Gascoigne Nighjingate^
lilsq. deceased, in memory of their virtues, did«
by his last will, order this monument to be erected/^ /
In the centre of the chapel of St. Johii the Evan-i
gelist is a curious monument, erected to the rae«*
xnory of Sir Francis Vere, a gentleman well skilled
both in learning and arms ; but being brought ilp
from his youth in the camp, he dedicated his study
to the art of war, in which he wasL equalled by few*
atfid not excelled by any. He commanded in front uo-
6er Prince Maurice, at the battle of Newport, againstf
the Spanisli army, who came to the rdief of that
towrt, under the. command of the Archduke Albert,
then goveraioi of the Low Countries. • Vere, in post-
ing the English soldiers advantageously, had occa-
sion to pass a ford, in order to which the sold ieri
were preparing to strip ; but he prevented that de-
lay* by telling them that what they were goipg ix>
do was- entirely useless, for in a few hoius they
might either have dry clothes, or need of none. By
this seasonable encouragement, the enemy ^s .horse
that had left their foot behind, were beat back,.aad
the English, who were not above one thousand five
hunflred in number, gained the eminence of the
downs, supported by a body of Friesland foot,
ready to sustain the first shock of the enemy's fire.
Though tliis was a dangerous enterprize, in which
Yere himself was wounded, his hors^ shot under
him, and half the English slain, yet it proved the
cause of victory to the Dutch : for Prince Maurice
advancing suddenly with his fresh troops, while th«
Spaniards
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$99 HISTORY AND StTEYET OP
Spaniards were yet greatly exhausted by their at-
tack upon this small body, found it easy to put them.
to the r ut, and th^eby obtained a complete victoiy.
The monument is a table, supported by four knights
Jkneeling, on which lie the several parts of a complete
tuit of armour, and underneath the effigy of Sir
Francis, in a loose gown, lying on a quilt of alabaster.
There is a short description in Latin, on the base of
the monument, signifying that he was nephew to
the Earl of Oxford,, and that this was consecrated to
his memory by his disconsolate widow. He died in
the fifty-fourth year of his age, on the 38th of Augu^,
.1608.
In former times, there were many ancient monu-
ments in this chapel, of which only one is now re-
maining. It has the figure of an abbot, in his mass
habit, curiously engraved on brass, representing John
de Eastrey, who died on the 4th of March, 1498.
By the records of the church, he appears to have
been a g^eat benefactor to it. He adorned the west
window with many grand paintings on glass, a small
part of which still remains : he built the screen to
this chapel, and presented. two ims^es, gilt, for the
altars of St. Peter and St. Paul; and one for the
Chapter-house. Tis very singular, that, in breaking
up the grave, in the year 1706, the body of this ab-
bot was discovered in a coffin quilted with yellow
satin, dressed iii a gown of crimson silk, fastened
round bis waist with a black girdle. On his legs
w*re white silk stockings, and over his face-a clean
napkin, doubled up and laid comer- ways. The fecc
was in some degree discoloured, but the legs and
arms were firm.
In the chapel of Islip are two monuments deserv*
ing of notice ; that of John Islip, Abbot of Westmin-
ster, and founder of this chapel, and that of Sir
Christopher Hatton.
Islip's
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LONDOR AK0 ITS EAVHtONS. $9^
Iflfip's mcnumeiit is a plain ixiaible table, supported
by fiiur filkm of brasB: a^e it, on the roof, was
formerly a fine pain ting of our Saviour on the cross;
which was dcistrqyed in Cronradi's time, by the
puritans^ who were enemies to every thing that ap->
peared to be connected with popish idolatry. Islipr
was eaiployed l^ Henry VIL in decorating his new
chapel» ami in repairing and beautifying the whole
abbey^ to #hich he added several embellialiments,*
espedniiy the statues of onr kingd, along the but^'
tKsses. He adso prdjeeted a most superb dome, or
kmtem^ to be erected in the center of the cross ; but-
the piUsffS' were found too weak to support it. Hii^
own chapelt he dedicated to St. John the Baptist;
and died the second of Jamiafy, in the year 1510.
The other monument is erected to the menu>ty of
Sh* Christopher Hatton, Knight of the Bath, ami
aeafedt of ki», in the male line^ to Sir Christopheir
Hatton^ Chancellor of liJigland, in the rei^gnof Queei^
Elizabeth. Acicording to the inscription, he died ctt
the 10th of September, 1619. The figures on the
tomb- are, a knight in armour, and a lady in deep
mourning, both resting on the ascending sides of a'
triangular pediment, separated in the middle by a'
trunkless helmet. Over their heads \i a neat piect^
of ancMlecture, in the center whereof is a scroll,
with their arms, held op by naked boys; the one
over the knight holds a torch, put out and reversed,
to show thpt Sir Christopher died first ; the other,
over the lady, holds his torch erect, and burning, to
signify that she survived him.
In a chantry, over this chapel, are handsome wain-
scot presses, which contain the effigies in wax» of
Queen Elizabeth, King William and Queen Mary,
and Queen Anne, in their coronation robes. Here
19 also an excellent figure of the late Earl of Chat-
ham^ in his partian^ontaiy robes.
TOL. in. lee Against
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894 ' UISTORY AND SURVXY 09
Against the south widl of St 'Erasmuses chapel^ tir
tn antique stone moaumenti on which, under aGothic
canopy, lies the figure ot a bishop properly habited^
and is supposed to be Thomas Ruthal, made Bishop
of Durhainiby King Henry VIII. He had been se-
cretary of state to Henry VIL and was made a privy-
counsellor, and sent abroad on various embassies by
Hen.VII}. Hediedintheyear 15S4. Bishop Goodwin
relates the following circumstance, relative to the
diiieovery of his possessions, which occasioned his
deaths viz. That, being commanded to write down
a true state of the kingdom in general, for his ma-
jesty's private information, he took great pains in the
performance, and, having fairly transcribed it, caused
the book to be bound in vellum, ^ilt, and variously
ornamented ; and, at the same time, having taken
an account of his own private estate, widi an inven-
tory of his jewels, plate, and money, he caused that
likewise to be bound and ornamented exactly like
the other, and laid them both carefully together in
his closet However, it so fell out, that the king,
on some occasion, sent Cardinal Wolsey in haste for
the national tract, which he had so long expected
from Ruthal ; but by mistake, Wolsey received the
book containing the schedule of the bishop's own
wealth. The cardinal soon discovered the mistake,
but being willing to do Ruthal, to whom he had-no
liking, a shrewd turn, he delivered the book to the
king, just as hq received it, telling his majesty that
now if he wanted money, that book would inform
him where he mfght command a million ; for so
much did the bishop's inventory amount to. When
the bishop discovered his errcH*, it affected him so
much that he died soon after.
In the middle of this chapel is a large table mo*
nument, erected to the memory of Thomas Cecil,
Earl of Exeter, Baron Burleigh, Knight of the Garter,
and
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LONDOIC A^B ITS ENVIRONS. • 996
piYy«<iotmsellor to King James; on which is his effigy,
m his robes, with a lady on his right side, and a va^'
cant space for another on his left Dorothy Nevit,
Ills first wife, who was daughter and co^heiress to
the noble Lord Latimer, kiys on his right sid^ ; and
the blace that is vacant w^ left for his second wife,
fVancfss Bridges, who was of the noble famify of Chan-
dois. This ladj however, gave express ordeM in her
i^in, that, aS'th^ right side was taken up, her effigy
should ik>t /bef placed on the left; notwithstanding
whieh, agte^ble to the iitecriptiorlj they are itll bu-^
ried together in one vault. >. . ^
On the south side of thin chapel is a monument
erecCed to the memory of Colonel Edward Popham,
and his lady; the statues of whom are in white taar-
ble, as big as the life, and stand under a Idfly canopy,
resting their arms in a thoughtful position on a niarbte
aitar^ on whi^h He the gloves of an armed knight.
This geittleman was an active officer in CromwelPsr
army, and his at^bievements were inscribed on'hi^
tomb. At the time of the Restoration, this inscrip-
tion was ordered to be defaced^ and the whole mo-
nument destroyed ; but at the intercession of some
of his lady's relations, who had been particularly use*
ful to his majesty, the stone on which the inscrip-
tion was engraved, was only inverted, and the mo-
nument received no other injury. The time of his
death cannot be ascertained, as the inscription is en-
tirely oblitelrated.
>fearly in the centre of St. Paul's chapel is a mag-
nificent monument of alabaster, with pillars of Lydian
marble, gilt ; on the table of which lies the effigy of
an old man, in a chancellor's habit, wjth the figures
of his eight children, four sbns' and four daugliters,
kneeling on the base. This monument was erected
to the memory of Sir Thomas Bromley, Knt, privy-
eounsellor^
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^9^ . I^SIOEY AND JIG^V^y OF
couffB^^Qjfi #ad eight yedis qbanpeUff ^n Qutpi^
tlliz^b^ti^,.]^ ^bicb office he diec) Apnl IStlf), 1587f
jhiere i^,4^*^ monuo^^iU of hl^(^ tou^hstofiet xe^
p3arli:a^ly.di0*eFen^ troin wy qtherip the fibbey. Q^
the^ top of it is £^ circiilar iraip^ of giU brasf^. whiqh
enclosjt.^ the bust ot* Apoi, l^fidy CpttiogtoD, wi%
to t^Yawci^, Lor<;l Cottiqgton, . j^ejae^tfit Qp a table
mopuHieat, lies ihe, e%y of her hmb^ip4t ^^f^g ^
]i^8 left arm ; and over ^hc');tead of a pt^ty^f iaji}e folr
lowing iflscnp^ipn; '• H?^ Ij^ FmAqis ^^r^ Cot^
tingt;QD, of Hs^owpfttll^t ^^ko, in the r«^ga of ^ipg
Charles L was chancellor of (^isni^jesl^jf'f e^tchequer^
iDa^ter of f^ie Q^^ift oi ward^, qou^aUll^ o( the T^vver,
lord higi) l^'fta^u^friof En^^nd^ ai^^ Qne4>f iU||e pfivy^
com^l- Hje wai^ tjjjJQe axvba^a^cff Jn ^paip^one^
for tbf^.s^id king, andrS(;$eoond fii^e fw^ing Cl^arle^
il. flftw Teigping,- to bpti^ which t^ ffiioat « igwUy
slp^w^ his. ^allegiance and fide^ity^ di^ring the ua-
Vappy. <pi,yik broils of those tinges ; aod % h^feithfttf
^^^erence to the cro^q (the usjurper pravailwg)
^d& forced V> fly hi9 country, a«d during bis exife,
di^d at Yaladoiid i« Spain, June I9th, l^^^ in the
74.th y^ar of his age, wh^ence his body was broug^,
and here interred by C^aiies Cpttingtpn, Esq^ his
nepheyv and heir, in 1Q79*'' This gjreatr loaa was
secrets^ \o C'harles, pripc^ of Wales* whom be at-
tended om bis journey to yi^t th^ l^M^ of ^piMiU
wh^n pn the point of m^riage with that: prtnc^ss.
Lady Cottington died the S2d of F^bruiwy, 16^3^ ia
the 33d year qf her age.
Adjoining to the ^a^t wall of the chapel of $t.
Kicholas is a stately mpaument of various c(Joure<i
iparble, (greeted to the memory of Anne, Ducheaa
of Son^/ei^et, wif^^ to Edward duke of Sotnerset,
brother to the tl^jrd wife of ll/enny YIIL Queen
Jane Seymour, uncle to Edward VI. and some time
S regent
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.^Ufiog hi9 miiiwty. He was afterwards
fHtgPMMldl accused of Iroasonable practioes against
tb« 'kwgy imd by his peers« aod acquitted ; but am«
d«illie4'of feb&y in levying armed men contrary to
\s,wj l» conaequenoe of which he was sentenced
to be )img^> but, io respect to his high quality, was
b^Mfedii^ on Tower-hill, the 92d ctf Jaouary, in ther
ye^ \&^U Ttee iMcriptioo on the tomb is m Latin
^nd English, and deseribes the noble lineage of this
greiA lady, who died at Hauworth^ the 1 6th of April,
1587» id the ninetieth year of her age.
At a awaU distance from this is a very elegant
monusMOt erected by die great Lord liorleigh^
ta tiie neoiory of Miicbred his wife, and their
daug^iit^ lady Anoe, Cotintess of Oxford. It repfe^
9enis a oMgrnfieent tedoapie made c^* porpbyiyt and
Qthef kinds of marble gilt It is divided into twoi
compartments, one raised over the other. In the
upper is the figure of a venerable okl oran, in l^e
robea, Mdr ensigna of the garter, kneeling, as it were,
at prayers, and is supposed to be designed for Lord
Burleigh. In the lower compartmieiit Hes Lady Bur-
leigh, with b^' daughter Lady Jane in hei arms, and
at behead and feet are Ker grand-children kneeling.
There is a long Latin inscription explaining the
figures, and setting forth their respective virtues.
This acnbble lady died at Greenwich the dtb of June
in the year 166S.
On the west side of this chapel, against the waH,
is a beautiful monument erected to the memory of
Lady Winifred, who was first married to Sir Richard
Sackvillci Knt. and afterwards to John Paulet,
Marquis of Winchester. In the front of this monu'-
ment, on tkebase^ are the figures of a knight armed
and kneeling ; opposite him is a lady in deep moum^
iDg, in the like attitude ; behind whose baqk, on a,
baptismal font, lies an in&nt with its head supported
by
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99S UISTOfi^V AMU'SUftTBT OV '
by a pillow. By the inscriplion it appeatv, timt she
was desceaded from illustnous parento, and nterried
first a gentleman, of an ancient house whoae^ anc«s-
t^rswere renowned before the Conqueror's time;
and that her second husband was of noble blood.
Next to this is a handsome monument, erected t»
the memory of the late Duchess of Northumberland.
Between two large figures of Faith and Hope, is a
group of distressed objects, to whom her Grace, in
the character: of Charity^ is distributing her bounty.
Above are two Genii weeping over an um. Tbur
inscription recites her illustrious descent and titles ;
and concludes thus : ^^ Having lived long an ornament
of courts, an honour to her country, a^ pattern to the
great, a protectress of the poor, ever distinguished
for the most tender affection for her family and
friends, she died December 5th, 1776, aged sixty,
universally beloved, revered and lamented. The
Duke of Northumberland, inconsolable for the los^
of the best of wives; hath erected this monument to
her beloved memory."
At the door c^ tliis chapel lie the remains of that
great and learned antiquarv, Sir Heniy Spdman,
who died at upwards of. eighty years of age, in the
year 1641. «
At the entrance of St. Edmund's chapel, on the
right hand, is the ancient monument of William de
Valence, whose effigy lies in a cumbent posture
on a chest of wainscot placed upon a tomb of
grey marble; the fisrure is wood, covered ori-
ginally with copper gilt, as was. the chest in which
it lies, but the greatest part has been taken away ;
and of thirty small images that were placed in little
brass niches round, scarce one remains entire. He
was treacherously slain at Bayonne in the year IS96,
but his body being brought to England, was interred
in this, chapel, and an indulgence of one hundred
daj-s
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LOKDOir ' AKf> ITS^ BNVIBOITS. 999
days gianted to all devdutpeopfo who should pray
for the* welfare of his soul.
Near this is a moat magniffcent moDument, partly
iDcloead, to- tbenfemory of Edward Talbot, eighth
Earl of Shrewsbury, who died February the 8th,
1617) aged fifty-seven, and his Lady Jane, eldest
daughter, and coheiress of Cuthbert, Baron Ogle,
wfaoae effigies in their robes he on a black marble
table, supported by a pedestal of alabaster. This
monument is finely ornamented, and the carving on
the various coloured marble is exquisite. The in-
scription contains nothing more than his titles and
character, which is indeed veiy high : he was ho*
nound)le without pride : potent without ostentation :
telieious without superstition : hberal both in mind
and bounty ; warded ever against fortune, his whole
life was a path of justice ; and his innocence
escaping envy, continued through the whole course
of his life.
Under the window, fronting the entrance of this
chapel, is a very ancient monument representing a
Gothic chapel, in which is the figure of a knight in
armour, in a cumbent posture, with his feet resting
on a lion's back. This monument was erected for
Sir Bernard Brocas, of Baurepaire in the county of
Haats, chamberlain to Anne, queen to Richard IL
But this princess dying, and Richard falling under
the displeasure of his people, who deposed Tiim*
Sir Bernard stiil adhered to his royal master in his
misfortunes, which cost him his life ; for beins con-
cerned with many others in. an unsuccessful at-
tempt to restore him to the crown, he shared the
comqioh fate of ahnost all the leaders of that conspi-
racy, and was beheaded on Tower-hill in the month
of January, 1399-
On the east side of this chapel is a monument
sracted to the memory of John of Dtham» secohd
son
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4Q0 Hinoay avd svevky of v^
•O0of KiqgEdvrard IL and af^callecl fiNnnEltfam
in Kent, the place of his nativity. Hia atatua is of
white alabaster^ tbe head encircled in a Coronet of
greater and leis leaves^ and hia habit ia that of an
armed knight* He died in Scothad at the a^ of
Bineteen^ uamamed^ though three different matches
had been proposed to him « the last of which, to
Maty, daughter of Ferdinaiid king of Spain, he ac*
ceptedvbut did not live tsocoBsuminate it. Hia fu«
oerai was so magniBcent and costly, that the prior
and conveoi demanded one htindfed povnda (a great
aum at that time) for a hone and anaour pwatniteJ
there on the day of hia iliteiment.
On the esoA side of St. Benedict's chafiel, where
once stood the aHar of St. Benedict,, ia a beantifiil
moaumeut, composed of various kinds of maihle^
erected to the memory of Lady Frances, Covnteas
of Hertford, who is here represented in her robea in
a cumbent posture, with her head resting on an ena*
broidered cushion, and her feet on a lion's back*
The sculpture of this monument is exceeding cis^
rious.
Between this chapel and the next, against the
wall, is a monument of Mos«c woik, the mles in
piaitt' paimels, but the top of the table wrought itf
flgures, said to be donr with the same kind of
stones as* the iloor before the altar,, and eieeted for
the children of Henry L and Edward L Of«r dui
tomb is something which 'seems to have been a
piece of church perspective^ but now almost de«
fiieed. This certainly was once a rich and ccady
monument ; for in the records of the Tow^, them
is the kin^s order for erecdng such a one in . this
place, and for alk>wing Master SimottdeWella five:
marks and a half, to defray hi^ expenses in brioging
from the city a handsome brass image to set upon
his daughter Catharine's tonth ; and for payii% to
Simoi
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tOKiMH iND Its £!9Vf&DKS; 401
Simoli de Gloucester the king's goldsmith, for a sil-
ver image for the like purpose^ the sum of seventy
marka.
On the north side of the area, ac^joining to St*
Andrew^s chapel, is the superb monument erected
at the e3lf>efi8e of the nation to the memory of Gcr
neral Wolfe. The front of the pediment represents
the laading of the troops at Quebec, and the diffi*
culties they hod to encounter in getting rcip therr
canooa and <^iiibjng the rocks ; and in the back-
^und is a representation of the city, with the
engi^eiiieot. The monument is supported by lions*
and on jeach side of it is ft medallion, with a wolf's
head. The general appears in the agonies of deaths
supported by a grenadier, who seems to express^
by pointing with his finger to a distance, that the
victoiy is gained. Behind the general is the faith**
fill Highland seijeant who attended him, leaning on
his halbert, and looking at the dying hero with ad«
miiation wd grief. At the feet of the general lie
his hat, fusee, gorget, &c. Near these is the repre-
sentation of a tent, underneath which is a group of
figures. Behind the tent is seen a large tree, and
by it lie a tomahauk, scalping-knife, and hatchet,
the Indian weapons of war. . On the top of the
monument i* the figure of Victory descending with
a crown of laurel to immortalise the dying victor.
In the front of the monument is the following in-
scription :
To the memory of
JAMES WOLFE,
Major«General and Commander in Chief
Of tlie British land-forces
On an Expedition against Quebec,
Who, after surmounting by ability and valour
All obstacles of art and nature,
VOL. III. p f f Was
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402 HISTORY AND SITEVfilT tJF
Was slain in the moment of victory,
On the 14th of September, 17*^9,
The King and Parliament of Great-Britain,
Dedicate this monunlcut.
Nearly opposite to this were fornierly three an-
cient tombs, all of which afe now almost obli-
terated. The first of free-stone, made like a close
bed, was walled up, and another tomb placed against
it. This monument was covered with rfn- (mcient
Gothic arch, the sides eJdomed with vine branches
in relief, and the roof within springing into many
angles, under which lies the imaj^re of a lady in a
very antique dress, her feet resting upon Sons,' and
her head on pillmvs supported by angels, sitting
on each side the effigy, gilt and painted. On the
side of the tomb are six niches, in which seem to
have been painted monks, and on the pedestaj afe
still to be seen some remains of paintings. This
monument covered the remains of Aveline, Cotintess
of Lancaster, who died the 4th of November, l§9^i
the very year of her marriage. This lady vrsis daughter
to William de Foitibus, earl of All>emarle and Hol-
demiesse, and married Edmund Earl of Lancaster, son
to King Henry II.
Adjoining to this is another ancient monument
of grey marble, erected tx> the memory of Aymer de
Valence, second and last Earl of Pembroke of this
family, who was poisoned in France, by the secret
contrivance of the Earl of Arundel, the 93d of June,
1324. He had been three times married, but had
no issue by either of his wives. In the time of
Edward I. he was a great general, and not only at-
tended that prince in his expedition to Flanders, but
lik'ewiseaccompanied him toScotland, where that king
died. He is said to have been one of the judges who
fi^ave sentence against the great Earl of l^ncaster,
• - Tht5
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LONDON Amy ITS ENVIRONS. 403
The third is an ancient monument to the memosy
of Edmund Crouchl)ack, fourth son to Henry III.
so called, as is supposed by some, tVoui the deformity .
of his person; others imagine it arose from his at*
tending his brother in the ' holy wars, where they
wore a crouch or cross on their shoulders, as a badge
of Christianity. On the base of the tomb, towards
the area, are the remains of a curious, and perhaps
the most antique English painting extant, but much
defaced, being ten knights armed with banners, sur-
coats of armour, and cross-belted, representing, un-
doubtedly, his expedition to the Holy Land, the
number exactly agreeing with what M,atthe\v Paris
reports, namely, Edward and jiis brother, faur earls
and four knights. • It was originally a very lofty mo-
nument, .painted, gilt and inlaid with stained glass.
The inside of the canopy has been a feky with stars,
but by time i^ changed into a dull red, — From this
prince the House of Lancaster claimed their right to
thecro<vn.
In this area lie the remains of many persons of
note, among whom may be mentioned x\nno of
Cleve, who was married to Henry VIlL on the 9th
of January, I539,and in July following, divorced, wilh
liberty to marry again : but being sensibly touched
with the indignity put upon her, she lived in retire-
ment with the title of Lady Anne of Cleve, and saw
the r.val who supplanted her in the king's affection
suffer a worse fate. She died in i 5 j7, four years
after the death of the king. * •
Near the ashes of this lady lie those of a more
unfortunate queen, Anne, daughter of the'great Earl
of Warwick, and wife to Richard III. She was poi-.
soned by her husband to make way for his marriage
with Elizabeth, daughter of his brother Edward IV.
This marriage, however, was never consummated,
Hichard being slain at the battle of Bosworth.
Hero
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404 HISTORY AND WJiyEY 09
H^re are also the remains of ao ancient monUineot^
erected to the memory of Sebert, King of the Bast
SexoDS, who first buiU this ehurch) and died in
July, 6 16.
Quitting the area ait the south west extremity we
Tetum to the south eross, of, as it is commonly calied
from the nuQiber of persons of that description buried
here, the toets* comer, from whence we ^all pn^ceed
round the open part of the Abbey to the north cross.
Intfae poets' comer the monuments are ao croAvded
upon each other ais to obscure or wholly conceal from
view some of the most ancient ; while the confusion
among those exposed to view is such as to bewilder
the eye of the spectator, and cause him to pass over
many beautiful specimens of monumental arehitec-
ture, which, were they single, would command his
admiration. Here are to )>e found the names of
Davenant, Dryden, Cowley, Chaucer, Phillips,
Drayton, Johnson, Spenser,. Milton, Pk'ior, Shake^i
spear, Thomson, Rowe, Gay, Goldsmith, Bulfer, and
many others of inferior note : ai^d here also are the
toml)s of Handel and Garrick. Among these we
shall, particularise the most striking.
Th^^t to the memory of Matrtievv Prior is a most
beautiful monunjent, and richly ornamented. On-
one side of the pedestal stands the figure of Thalia,
one of the nine muse,s, with a flute in h<T hand;
Bn^ on the other, History, with her book shut ; be-,
tween both is the bust of the deceased upon a raised
altar of fine marble. Over this is a handsome pedi-
ment, on the ascending sides of which are two boys,
one with an hour dass in his hand run out; the
other holding a tordi reversed ; on the apes of the
pediment is anurn, and on the base of themonument
a long inscription, setting forth the principal em-
ployments in which he had been engaged; particu-
larly, by order of King William and Queen Mary, iq
assistin^g*
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ho»DOin Ann ixs EirriAONS. 4(T5
asBistiDg at the congitss of the confederate powers
at the Mague in Vi^iX In 16979 he was oRe-of the
plenipotentiaries at the peace of Ryswick ; and in
the following year was of the esibassy to t rance. and
also secretary of slate in Ireland. Id 1700 he was
made one of the board of trade; in 171 1 first corn*
missioner of the customs ; and lastly, in the same year,
was sent by her majesty Queen Anne to Lewis XIV;
of France, with proposals of peace. All which trusts
he executed with uncommon addresB, and the most
fircQ integrity. On the outermost side of the bust
IB a Latin inscription, impoiting, that while he was
busied in writing the history of his own times, death
interposed, and broke both the thread of his discourse
and of his life the eighteenth of September, 1721,
in the 37th year of his age.
The design and workmanship of Sbakespear's
monument are both extremely elegant. In the
figure of the immoital bard the sculptor hf»s most
delicately expressed his attitude, his dress, his shape,
bis genteel air, and fine composure. The heads
on the pedestal, which are likewise proper ornaments
to grace the torlib, lepreseiit Henry V. Richard IIR'
and Queen Elizabeth'. In short, the taste here shown
does honour to those great names, under wh<!>se di*-
rectton, by the public favour, it was sO elegantly con-
structed; namely, theEarl of Burlington, Dr. Mead,
Mr. Pope, and Mr. Martin. It was designed by Kent,
and executed by Scheemakers ; and t^e expense de^
frs^ed by the grateful contributions of the public.
The lines on the scroll, which were written by him-
self, are very projierly adapted*
The clou<l-cap*d towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great ^lobe itself;
Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve,
And, like the haseless fabnic of a vision,
lie^ve not a wreck behind.
Next
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406 HISTORY Aim SD&VBY OF
Next to this is a moQument to the memory of
Thomson, the authoc oflthe Seasons, and other
poetical works. It was erected in the year 1762,
and is the workmanship of Michael Henry Spang,
after a design of Adam. The figure of this gentleman
is represented sitting, with his left arm leaning on a
pedestal, holding a book in one hand, and the Cap
of Liberty in the other. On the pedestal is carved,
in basso relievo, the Seasons; to which a bay points, "
ottering him a laurel crown, as the reward of bis ge-
nius. At the feet of the figure is the tragic mask,
and the ancient harp. The whole is supported by a
projecting pedestal, and in a pannel i3 this Inscription:
James Thomson,
.Etatis48. Obiit 27 August, 171S.
" Tutored by thee, sweet Poetry exalts her voice
to ages, and inf)rms the page with. music, image,
sentiment, and thought, never to die.'^
Against the south wall of this cross is a lofty and
magnificent monument, inclosed with rails, and de-
corated with figures as large as life, erected to the
memory of John, Duke of Argyle and Greenwich.
The figure of Minerva is on one side the base, and
that of Eloquence on the other; the one looking sor-
rowfully up at the principal figure above, the other
pathetically displaying the public loss at his death.
On the top is the figure of History, with one band
holding a book, and with the other writing, on a
pyramid of finely coloured marble, the titles of the
hero, whose actions are supposed to be contained in
the book ; on the cover of which, in» letter;^ of gold,
are inscribed the date of his graces, death and ago.
On the pymmid is the following epitaph:
Briton,
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LONDON AND ItS ENTlROlfS 407
Briton, behold ! if patriot ^orth be dear,
A shrine that claims thy tributary* tear ;
Silent that tongue, admiring senates heard,
Nerveless that arm opposing legions feared.
Nor less, O Campbell, thine the power to please.
And give to grandeur all the grace of ease.
Long from thy life, let kindred heroes trace,
x^ns which ennoble still, the noblest race;
Others may owe their future fame to me,
1 borrow immortality from thee.
Under this is written in large lett^,
JOHN DUKE OF ARGYLE .^ND GR
at which point the pen ^f History stops'; the latter
title having become extinct on his death. •
The inscription on the base of the monument
runs thus: " In memory of an honest man, a oon-
stant friend, John, the great Duke of Argyle and
Greenwich, a general and orator, exceeded by none
in the age he lived. Sir Henry Farmer, Bart, by
his last will left the sum of fiv^ hundred pounds to-
wards erecting this monument, and recommended
the above inscription."
On the west wall is HandePs monument, the last
which that eminent statuary Roubiliac lived to finish.
It is a curious fact, that this ingenious sculptor first
became conspicuous^ and afterwards closed his la-»
hours as an artist^ with a figure of this extraordinary
man. The first w.as erected in the gardens at Vaux-
hall,and theJast is this monument; in which the whole
figure is very elegant and highly finished, and the face
is said to be a strong likeness of its original. The
left arm is resting on a group of musical instruments,
and the attitude is very expressive of great attention
to the harmony of an angel playing on a harp in the
3 clouds
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408 KigfORY AND WlLVEV i^ -
clouds over l»is heiid. Before it lies the eelebcated
Messiah, with tbatjMurtopeii) where is the much ad-
mired air, Ikrnm that m^ Jiedeemer Uveih. Under*
neath is the following short inscription: '^ Geoige
Frederick UandeJii, Esq. horn February 2% 1684»
died April 14, 1769/'
Near this is a very el^aat monument, erected to
the memcury of tliat eminent divine and philosopher.
Dr. Stephen Hales. In the front are two heautiful
figures in relief; the one representing Botany, the
other Religion. The first is presenting a medallion
of this great eaq^orer of nature to public view ; the
latter is deploring the loss of the divine. At the feet
of Botany, the winds are displayed on a globe, which
alludes to his invention of ventifators. The inscription
is in Latin ; a translation of which is as follows :
" To the memory of Stephen Hales, Doctor in
Divjnity, Augusta, the mother of that best of kings,
Geor^ the Third, has placed this monument ; who
chose him, when living, to officiate as her chaplain ;
and after he died, which was on the 4tfa of January,
1761, in the 84th year of his i^lionoured him with
this marble."
On the same side is the monument erected, to the
memory of David .Garrick, Esq. It consists ot* a
figure of this unrivalled actor, in an animated post*
tion, throwing aside a curtain, which discovers a
medallion of the great poet whom he has illustrated ;
while Tragedy and Comedy, adorned with their re-
spective emblems^ and supported by a pedestal* seem
to approve the tribute. The curtain is intended to
represent the veil of ignorance and barbarism, which
daurkened the dramatic works of the immortal bard,
(Ui the appearance of Garrick. The caressing atti-
tude, airy figure, and smiling countenance of the
comic
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^ ... ^'.LONDON AXD ITS ENVIRONS* .^ 4Q9
^omic muse, is iadicativcl of the satisfaction she
derivte froni it, nt lengtli, beholding a memorial of
Jier &¥Oiirite; while Melpomene^ with a more ma-
jeatie and'dignified mien, raising her veil, gazes with
charaetftristii: admiration on the ^' sovereign of the
willing soul,^ whom she at oace delights in and de-
(dores; The similitude te Garrick, will be felt *by
every spectator who holds the featured of the origi-
nal in remembrance : and wiiere is the person of
taste, who has seen htm, even once, '^nd can forget
the resemblance ? The teick ground Is formed of a
beaubful dove-coloured marbte, to relieve^he figuiibs
whicfa are iir pure stetualy marble. The inscriptibn^
which is the composition of Mr. Pratt, is bA follows.
f* *' < * . '•' ••
To the memory of David Garrick,
who died in* the year 1779>
"'- •'' ' at the age <rf 63. • •
To paiat &ir nature^ by divine command,
Her magic pencil in his glowing hand,
A Shakespeare rose: then, to expand his famei
Wide o'er this breathing world, a Garrick came«
The' sunk in death the forms the poet drew.
The actor's genius bade them breathe $inew.
t*ho^ like the bard b^self in night they lay^
ImoKHtal Gairick ci^lPd theite back to day;
And, till Eternity, with power sublime.
Shall mark the mortal hour of hoary' Time,
Shakespeare and Garrick like twin-stars shall shiiie^
And earth irradiate with a beam divine.
t This monument, the tribute of a fr iiend , was erected
1797-
Webber, Fecit. .
- At the north-west corner oi this'ci*oss is an ancient
monument to the great recorder of our antiquities,
rou III,. G g'g William
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410 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
William Camden, who is represented in a hatf-length^
in the habit of his time, widi his left hand heading a
book, and in his right his gloves, resting on an altar,
on the body of which is a Latin inscriptidn, setting
forth ^his^ indefatigable industry, in illustrating the
British antiquities, and his candour, sincerity, and
pleasant good humour, in private life. This m<Hia-
ment lias been repaired and beautified, 'and inclosed
with iron rails, at the expense of the University of
Oxford, where he received his education.
AiBong the stones which compose the pavement
of this cross, are many memorials of ^^ the silent te*
Dants of the house -appointed for all living;'' which
barely record their names and ages. The most re^
markable of these, is that which covers the ashes of
Thomias Parr, who was born in the county of Salop,
in the year 1483. He lived in the reigns of tea
princes, namely, Edward IV. Edward V. Richard HI.
Henry Vll. Heniy VllL Edward VI. Queen Mary,
Queen Elizabeth, James I, and Charles I. and, hav-
ing attained the great ^ge of one hundred and fifty*
two yeai-s, \vas buried here, .November 15th, l63i.
One of the extraordinary circumstances attending
the life of this wonderful old man, is, that at the age
of one hundred and thirty, a prosecution was insti-
tuted against him for bastardy, and with such efiect,
that he did penance publicly in church foe that
oflFence.
Almost at the south-west corner,- is an ancient
stone of grey marble, on which, by the marks, has
been the figure of a man in armour. It covers the
remains of John Haule, a private soldier in the reign
of Richard 11. and Henry IV. At the battle of Na-
jara, in Spain, he, together with John Shakel, his
comrade, took the Earl of Denia prisoner, who, un-
der pretence of raising money for his ransom, ob-
tained his liberty, leaving hjs son as surety in their
hands.
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laXDOV AKD ITS XNTIRONS. 411
liaadii Upon their coming to England, John of
€jiminti Duke of l^ncaster, demanded him for the
king; biit they refused ta deliver him up without a
ninaom, and were therefore both committed to the.
Tower; from whence eacapiug^ they tooli Sanctuary
in 1dm abbey« Sir ilalph Ferreris and Alan Buxal,
tiie.pDc governor, the other captain of the Tower,
with fifty mep7 pitmued them, and having,, by fair
pramise^, gained over Shakel, they attempted to seize
Uaule by force, who made a desperate defence; but^
being overpowered by numbeisi was slain Aug. ll^
^37^yVk the- choir, before the prior^s stall, com*
mendmg^ himself to^Gbd the avenger of wro^ ; and^
at the same t'utte, a servant of tne Abb^ fell with
him. Sudbury, Archbishop of Canterbury, > made^
tfais'faveadi- ofpiivtlege the ground of a complaint to
pffiriiaRie«»t;iand the church was shut up for four
months^ ttUitwas purified from this profanation^
The ofenders were exoommunicated, a largfe sun:^
of mottqr pctid to the church, arid all its privil^^
confirmed iii the next parliament. Shakel bad been
throwD into prison^ but was afterwards set at liberty;
and tbe King and Council of England agreed to pay
him, for the ransom of his prisoner, five hundred.
marks, and one hundred iparks per annum* Some
years^ afterwards Shakel died, and was likewise bu-^
ned here, in 1396.
In the south aisle is a stately monument erected
to the memory of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, on the base
<sf which is represented in b^s relief the ship Asso-^
ciation, in which the admiral bailed, striking against
a rock, with several others perishing at the same time,
and at the top are two boys blowing trumpets. This'
great man received the honour of knighthood the
46th of May, 1689. The inscription on the monu-
ment'is as follows: ^* Sir Cloudesley Shovel, knt. rear
admiral of Great. Britain.; and admiral and com*
mandar
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419 mSTORT JLKD SITRVET OV
inander in chief bf the fleet, the jast^iis ward of hitf
long and faithful servic^. He was deservedLjPliil^
ioved of his coujstry, and esteemed, though. dr^3Klcad«
by the eneipy who had oftea experienced his jcon-;
duct and courage. — B^ing shipwreokedof^.the^jrocU
of Sqilly, in his voyage from Toulonvthe 22<|, of Oc^
lober, 1707, at lu^ht, in the 57th yeatofhia age, hii
fkte was lamented by alt, but eapeciaUy by vth^ ae^*.
fering part of the nation; to whom he wa^i a gener
fOus patron, and a worthy example.^ — Hia body wtit
flung on the shore, and buried with others in the
sand; but being soon* after taken up, wasi placed
under this monument, which his royal miitreas had
caused to be erected to commemonUs hiaatcadly Ioy«
aky, and extraofdinary virttaes.*' .. . ,
' The execution of this monument has been ceo*
sured by many men of judgment, andameo^ otiieis
Mr. Addison, who complains that instead of tbe
lough bravety which ishould characterise a aMman,
the Bgure of the gallant* admiral is repi-escnted in the.
garb of i beau, reposing on velvet cushions under a
canopy of state : he likewise objects to the. inacrip*
tion, which, instead of reciting the long andfaithftU
aerviceid of which this memorial is said to be the just
teward, related only the manner of his death, fironi
which he could not obtain any glory. But with aU
these defects the aggregate is not undesarviog of
notice.
.Within the gates which separate the western part
of t%e thurch from the 80«ith cross is a neat monii^
ment in statuary n^arble ; composed of a surcopba^ua^
elevated on a pedestal, upon the face of which is eii^
graved the following inscription: " Sacred to the
memory of Mejor Andre, who, raised by his merit,
at an early p% nod of life, to the rank of Ac^utaiit-
General of the British forces in America, and em*
ployed in an important, but hanrdoua ^nterprize^fdi
a sacrifice
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LOKDON AND ITS EKVI-RQKS. 41 S
a «|qnfic9 wt)iifiia;eal for bis king apd country^ oplhe
Sdio/f October, lF5S^Oragedi29t.:,umvei^alHy beloved
^od ev^med by the army w vvbich be<$t^rvcv)|.wd
lamsnted eyen by i^ ^i^^* Uis gracious, sove^jsigii
i^^i^« IIL bfts caused this monument to bQ ete^t^^
« .On the front of th&sarcopbague. General \Vaabing«i
ton ]» rq>re8ented in bis tent, at the .tmomAit < when
ke b^d rpcciWcd tb|^ repo/t of thOtCourt'^Martial held,
on Major Andre, at the same time that a flag of truoe
arrived from; the British Army, with a letter for Gep&r
rai Washington, to treat for the Major's life. 'But the
fatal sentence being already passed, the flag was jsent
back without the hoped for clemehcy in his favoiif.
Major Andre; t^ceived his condemnation with that
fortitude whicH had always inarked his. character,
and is rfepresetited going, with ' unshaken s;>irit, to
meet his doom. On the top of the sarcbphagtis is ^
%iira of BrftwfMaJamentittg the fate of ao-^aUant
an q#c0r^i. h is greatly to be re^tted thafc sevodil
^ the fi^misoQ dvs»as well a9,maay other, of- th^
montiments in the Abbey!, i^ave. been wantonly
mutilated.
. General Hai^ra^t's monument is the production of
fk^ubiMac* It consists, of the representation of the
reswrrectioa of a body from a sarcophagui9, and of a
iKkufltct between Time and Death^wberein theformnr
prod^^ victODious. divests bis antagonist oi^ his power
by breaking his dart,and tumbling him down. Abofve.
it a great pile of building in a state of dissolution,
md. i^ cherub in the clouds souodix^ the last trumpet;
The wfapla ia^nely iaiagin€MJ, and as ingeniously,
executedi. This gentleman was Lieutenant-General ^
c^ bismBJesly's forces, Colonel of the royal flnglish*
FiixileeiB, and Governor of Gibraltar, who karing
been S7 years a eommisstooed officer, died the Sltt
of January, 174s8, aged 79*
Over
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414 HISTORY AND 8UAYEY OB
Over the door which opens into die doiBters is a
very stately monument for General Wade. Inr tiie
center is a beautiful marble pillar, enriched with ttii-
litaiy trophies exquisitely wrought. The principal
figures represent Fame pushing back Time, who
IS eagerly approaching to pull down the {Hilar, ^th
the ensigns of' honour that adorn it The G^ieral^
head is in a medallion, under which is the following
mscription:
^ "To the memory of George Wade, field-matshal
of his majesty's forces, lieutenant-general of the ord-
nance, colonel of his majesty^s third regiment of
dragoon guards, governor of Fort William, Fort Au-
gustus, and Fort George, and one pf his majesty's
most honourable privy-council. He died March 14,
I748,agqd75,'' • • ' .
Near this is a highly.finished buM of Dr. ThonM,
Bishop of Rochester, accompanied by emblems of
his sacred office. A long Latin inscription gives «
eharacter of the decfsased^ who died August the 10th,
1793, aged 81 years.
Between the pillars <A) the south side of the nave,
«tands the moiiuuient eiteted to the memory of
Captain Montague, who was killed in the engage^
ment on the Istof June, 1794, under Earl ifowe.
A msyestic figure of this brave commander stand) on
a marble pedestal, with his hand rioting on a sword.
Oyer his head is a figure of victory descepdhig with
a crown of laurels. In front of the fiedestal is )a re-
presentation of the engagement; on the right side is
Neptune^s trident, and a crown of oak, and on the
^leftj a wreath of laurel containing the .#ofd ** Con-
ititution." On the back of the pedestal is a trophy
of naval flags waving over a' group of prisoners.
This is a very classical coitopositton and- doea hoaou;
to
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L09D0V A^D IT& ENTIBOHS. 414
to tb» mrtist, Mr. Flaxinan, who first introduced de*
tached monuments into this abbey.
' Directly opposite, and in a similar, situation, na
monument to the memories of Captains Harvey and
Hutt, wlio died of the wounds they received in the
aame afction.^ It is composed of two Colossal figures
of BritaHniaand Fame, placed one on each side of a
large v^se, oa which are medallions of the deceased
Captains. Britannia is decorating the vase with lau-
lel, while Fame points to the names of the heroes
engraved on the base which supports it. On the
front of the pedestal is a representation in alto relievo .
of that part of the action in which they were ei^aged ;
over which isa small flying angel, with a palm-branch
in one hand, and a pair of scales in the other, illustrative
of a superintending {H'ovidence, who bestowed the
victory in approbation of the justice of the cause in
.which they fought* The design of this monument^
,whic^ is by Mr. Bacon, Jun. is very happy, and the
figures are very elegantly sculptured.
, Both of these monuments were <^rected at the
public expense.
'Nearly behind Captain Montague's monument is
a very magnificent one, erected about thirty years ago
to the memory of Admiral Tyrrell, designed and
executed by that ingenious artist Mr. Read, who
was pupil to the celebrated Mr. Koubiliac. On the
top of the monument is an archaf^gel descending
with a trumpet, summoning the admiral to eternity
from the. sea. The clouds moving and separating
discover the celestial light and choir of cheruU wha
appear singing praises to the Almighty Creator ; the
back^ground representing darkness. The admiraFf
countenance, with his right hand to bis breast, is ex*
preesive of conscientious hope; his left arm signifi*
eant of seeing something wonderfully awful. He
appears rising out of the sea from behind a large rock,
whereon
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^416 HISTORY AND 8UETSY 0» > ,* .^^
whereon are > placed his arms, with the emblems' of
Valour, Prudeace, and Justice. . The sea is discerned
•ver the cock at the extremity of sigbr; Wtl&e^clouds
mad water «eem to join* On one side the rook, an
•ngel'has wrote this inscription : "^^ The sea shall give
tip her^dead, and every one shdl be rewarded ac*
Wording to their works." In her left hand is a ce*
lestial crown, the reward of virtue, Utid her right band
is e^ctended tows^cds the admiral with a countenance
foil of joy)^ and happiness. Hibernia leaning on m
globe, with her finger on that part of it t^^here faia
body wss committed to the sea, lamenting the loss of
her favourite son with a countenance expressing
heart*felt grief. :On one side the rock is^e Buck-
' ingham (the admiral's ship) with the masts disabled :
on the other side^« large flag, with the trophies of
war, near which is the following inscription ; ^
^ Sacred to the memory of-* Kichard JTyrrel, £sq«
who was descended from an ancientfamily in-Ifeland,
and died rear-admiral of the White on the 36th day"
of June 1766, in the 50th year of his iq^er Devoted
from his youtb to the naval service of hift oountryi
and being formed under the discipline and animate<)
by the examine of his renowned uncle Sif Pete?
Warren, he distinguished himself as an ableundex*-
perienced officer in many gallant actions; particularlj^
on the third of November, 1768^ when commanding
the Buckingham of 66 guns, and 479 men, he at-*
tacked and defeati^d three French ships of war, on6
of which was the Florisant of 74 guns and 700 men ;
but the Buckingham being too much disabled to take
possession of her after she had struck, the eneniy^
under the cover of the night, escaped. In this ac*
tion he received several wounds, and lost three fin-^
gers of his right hand. Dying on his return to
England from the Leeward Islands, where he had
for three yeaiis commanded a squadron of his majesty'a
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LOMDOV Ain> ITS BNYIltOirS 417
ships, hift^ body, aecordiag tq his own desire, was
committed to the sea, with the proper honours and
ceremonies. ^^
On the south side of the great west entrance is a
noble monument to the memory of Captain Com wall,
who was killed in the battle between the English
fleet under Matthews and Lestock, and the combined
French and Spanish fleets. This monument, which is
thirty six feet high, has at the back of it a pyramid of
rich Sicilian maible, beautifully variegated and finely
polished, standing upon a base of the same marble;
Against ^ the pyramid is a rock, embellished with
naval trophies, sea-weeds, &c. in which are two
cavities : in the one a Latin epitaph ; in the other, a
view oif the sea-fight before Toulon, in basso re-
lievo; in the fore-ground whereof, the Marlborough
of ninety guns, is seen fiercely engaged with Admiral
Navarro's ship, the Real, of one hundred and fourteen
guns, and her two seconds, all raking the Marlbo-
rough fore and aft. On the rock stand two figures ;
the one represents Britannia under the character of
Minerva^ accompanied with a lion ; the other figure
is expressive of Fanle, who having presented to
Minerva a medallion of the hero, supports it, whilst
exhibited to public view. The medallion is accom-
panied with a globe, and various honorary crowns,
as due to valour. Behind the figures is a lofty
spreading palm-tree, whereon is fixed the hero's
diiield or coat of arms, together with a. laurel-tree ;
both which issue from the naturally-barren rock, as
alluding to some heroic and uncommon event. The
inacriptipn is as follows :
rou III* u h h Amongst
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Amongst the monumjeiit»4>f ancient ^ent,
in this sacred cathedral, iet the name of
JAMES CORNWALli
Bej^reserved, the tHrd son oF Heory (^orDtntll,
Of Bradwardin Castle« in th^ coonty of Hewfosd, Esq.
WJiQ fiom the very old and lU^ajtrioips stock of
the Pknta^enets, . ^
Derivixig a trul^ anqient spidt, became
A naval commander of the first emittenoe.
Equally and deseivedly hohoiued by theteaift and
Applaive of BrkoB9> a$a man
Whobiavely defending the ca^ise of hi& country.
in that sea-fight off Toulon j
And being by a chain-shot deprived
Of both his legs at a bkiw» fdi uaooo^uewd
OQ,tVe;27th of Feb. 1743, in iht 43ih year of hs3 ago,
Beij^eathing his animated' example to his fi^Ubw,
sailors,
As a*1^icy of a dying Englishman,
W1ios» eztcaordinafy valdnr could not be recoalmtaMt
To the emulation of posterity in a more am^Weologf
Than by so singular an instance of honpujr ;
Since the parUament of Great Britain,' by an unanimom
suffrage,
JtesolvM that a monument at ithepi^Kn cxpeDon.
should be consecrated to the memory
of this most heroic person.
General Killigrevv's monument, on th)3 north side,
is a fine piece of sculpture ; tbeemi^UishmentBare
very picturesque, and the inscription modest. It is
as follows: Robert Kiliigrewi of Am^eeaclb, in
Cornwall, Esq. Son of Thomas and Charlotte; Rige
of Honour to Charks II ; Brigadier General of her
Majesty's forces; killed in Spain, in the battle -of
Almanza, April 14th, 1707. i^tafis-^u© 47.
MiLiTAVij A N N IS 24. But the greatest singularity
of this monument is that it is cut out of a single
stone. •
In the north cross, on the west side of the screen
jpf the transept, is a aiQnument to the memoiy of the
• '^ ' {benevolent
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UIND0I9 AND ITS ENVIRONS. 419
beaevoleot Jones Hauw^y, erected by the voluntary
subscriptioa of his friends and of the ^larine Society,
of iwhich he was one of the founders. It consists of
a pyramid of black marble, standing on a pedestal of
the same. At the top of the pyramid is a lamp, em-
blematic of 'eternal light, and on the face of it is a
medallion of the deceased, immediately under which
is a sarcophagus, supposed to contain his romain^.
It is decorated at the top with his arms, festoons, &c. ^
and on the body of it is a reUevb of Britannia, seated
on her lion, and surrounded by the emblems of Go-
vernment, Peace and War, Trade and Navigation,
with a baiiign countenance, distributing clos^thing to
an almost naked boy, alluding to the charitable pur*
pose/or which the Maiine Society was instituted. A .
second boy is supplicating for the like bounty, his dis-
tresses visible in his imploring countenance, and a
third, who appears to be made happy, by being fitted
out and trained for sea, supports a ship's rudder with
one hand, and, with the other, points up to his bene-
factor. Above the sarcophagus, on the right hand
side of the pyramid, flies^the British flag, over a con-
quered one, and on the other side is the banner of
the Society, with its motto, '' Charity and Policy
United." The following inscription is on the front
of the pedestal.
" Sacred to the Memory of '
Jonas Hanway,
Who departed this life, Sept. 5; 17S6, aged 7t:
Butwho^e Name Uveth5and will ever live,
Whilst active piety shall distinguish
The Christian ;
Integrity and Truth shall recommend
The British merchant;
And universal kindness shall characterize
The Citizen of the world.
The
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430 UISXOEY AND 8UAVKY OF •
The helpless Infant, nurtured through his car^.
The friendless Prostitute, sheltered and reformed.
The hopeless Youth, rescued from misery and ruin.
And train'd to serve and to defend his country^
United in one common strain of gratitude.
Bear testimony to their Benetactor^s virtues.
This was the Frienp and Father of the Poor!"
Next to this is a monument, erected by bis widow,
to the memory of Brigadier (ileneral Hope, Lieute-
nant Governor of Quebec, where he died in 1789,
aged 43 years. It consists of a female Indian, whose
alection has brought her to the monument; she
kneels on the pedestal, and, bending over the sarco*
phagus, expresses the sorrow occasioned by the loss
of sucha benefactor.
Adjoining is the monument erected by the East
India Company as a memorial of the miUtary talents
of Lieutenant General Sir Eyre Coote, K. B, Com-
ihander in Chief of the British forces in India. It
consists of two figures as large as life. The one, a
Mahratta captivp weeping beside a trophy of Eastern
armour, indicating the subjugation of a part of that
country, pours the contents of a cornucopia into a
British shield. The other, Victory decorating a mili-
tary trophy with a medallion of Sir Eyre Coote, by
hanging it on a palm tree which rises from behind the
armour. The Mahratta figure in this monument is
particularly admired.
On the east side of the screen, near the north door,
is a most magnificent monument erected by a vote of
parliament to the mem(^ry of the late Earl of Chatham,
and executed by Mr. Bacon, the same ingenious ar-
tist tliat was employed to erect his lordship's monu-
ment in Guildhall. It consists of six principal figures:
in a niche, in the upper, part of a grand pyramid, is
placed the statue of the Earl of Chatham, in his par-
liamentary
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LOMDON AND ITS ENTIRONtS. 491
liameiitaiy rbbes ; he is represented in the action of
speaking, the right haad thrown forward, and ele-
vated, and the whole attitude strongly expressive
of that species of oratory for which his lordship wa^
80 deservedly famed* On a sarcophagus, underneath,
recline Prudence and Fortitude ; and below these is
Bxitamkia seated on a rock, with Ocean and the£arth
at her feet ; intended to depict the effect of his wisdom
and fortitude in the greatness and glory of the na-
tion. Prudence has her usual symbols, a serpent
twisted round a mirror : Fortitude is characterized
by the shaft of a column, and is cloathed in a lion's -
skin. The energy of this figure is strongly contrasted
by the repose and contemplative character of Pru- -
dence. Britannia, as mistress of the sea, holds in
her right hand the trident of Neptuiie, while her left
is supported by her own shield. Ocean is represented
leaning on a dolphin, with a severe countenance and
an agitated action, which is opposed by the great
ease in the figure of the £arth, who reclines on a ter-
restrial globe, with her head crowned with fruit,
which also lies in profusion at the foot of the pyra-
mid. On the center of the plinth is the following^ .
inscription :
" Erected by the King and Parliament,
As a testimony to
The Virtues and Ability
of
William Pitt, Earl of Chatham,
During whose Administration,
Ih the reigns of George II. and Gtorge IlL
Divine Providence
Exalted Great iJritain
To an height of Prosperity and Glory
Unknown to any former Age.
Bom Nov, l^, 1708. Died May U, 1778/'
Adjoining
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^22 UISTOAY ANB SUAYEY ^
^ A4iokiiQg to tlw 18 aDotber natiooftl mopnawptt
el:ect^d to the memory of the bfave 4:aptaiiis, who
lost their lives in the engagements b^^een tb^
British fleet, under L^d Rodney, and the French
fleet, under Count De Grasse, in the. West Indies, in
April, 17 83. The back ground is &>niied by a tali
pyramid, before which stands a rostcated ootlumn of
black marble, on which a genius hangs three me*
dallions, containing the portraits of the captains.
Round the upperone is inscribed, LordRo^RTMAK-
i!i£RS, aged 24? ; and round the other two, Captain
\ Willi W Bay^e, aged 50, und Captain William
Blaib, aged 41. At the foot of the column is the
figure of Neptune, sitting on a sea-horse, and point-
ing out the portraits of the heroes to Britannia, who
stands on the other side, with a countenance finely
.expressive of sorrow, as examples for posterity to
emulate, and worthy of their country's gratitude.
. On the lop of the column is an elegant figure of
Fame, holding a crown of laurel. On the right side
of the pedestal, which supports the pyramid, is a
globe, ^c.and on the left a naval trophy; and in the
center i^ the following inscription :
*' Capt. Wm. Baynb^
Capt. Wm. Blair,
Capt. Ld. Robt. Manners^
were mortally wounded
in the course of the naval engagements
under the command of Adm. Sir Geo .Brydges Rodney,
on the IX & XII of AprH, M.DCC.LXXXIL
In memory of their services,
the King and Parliament of Great Britain
h^ve caused this monument to be erected.'*
Considered as a whole, this monument, which is
by Mr, NoUekins, has a grand and impressive effect
The
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The %wie Of Neptune is partieularlf dassical, and
the left haad^indacvixi inimitably executed; and the
giou|Mng o( the^ figures-does goeat bcttionr lo ttke tamtj
tttients, an^ geimis, of the seulplor. . '
BbhveM this monumieiit aad the na^e; is thai
lately erected to the memory of the Eartiaf Mana-^
fields and the iiist whichitvas' placed between the
pittai^ of the AVbej, witbimt a wall to- block «f^ the'
arch, anddestj'oy the beauty of the building, for the
sake of the monument. The introduction of this
improtrement in monumental sefolpture, will per-
peMai^ tile name of Mr. Fiaxmao, the ingeni*^
ous artist, who, unfettered by an adiiefeDce la ex-
ample, dared to throw aside the prejudice of anti-
quated error, and act from the imptiise of his own
judgment. The earl is represented in judge's robes,
sitting on the judgment-seat, which is placed on a
circular eUevation of peculiar eleganee: in his left
hand he holds a scroll of parchment; his right hand'
rests OQ his knees and his left' foot is a little ad-
vanced. This attitude is taken from the celebrated
painting by Sir Joi^ua Reynolds, but'^is executed
with sp-much judgment and spirit bjr tiie sculptor,
that it .has the appearance of being done from the.
life. Oil his right hatid. Justice Holds^ a balance
equally poised, and- on his left hand, Wisdom is read-
ing in the Book of Law. Between the statues of
Wisdom and Justice is a trophy, composed of the
Earl's family arms, surmounted by the coronet, the
mantle of honour, the fasces, or rods of justice, and
the curtana, or sword of mercy. On the back of the
chair is the Earl's motto: — ^^Uni ^Equus Virtuti,'*
inclosed in a crown- of laurel. Under it is a figure
of Death,' a* represented by the* ancients: a beauti-
ful youth', leaning on an- extinguished toixh, and on
each side-of this figure is a fune/al altaip.
Sir
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'^if UIStORY ANO aUBTSy 09
Sir Petec Warren^s is a most superb moi|ument of
white marble^ executed by that great master of his
time, Roubiliac. Against the wall isalaigeflas hangiog
to the fls^-staff, aod spreading in natural folds behind
the whole monument. In me front is a fine figure
of Hercules placing Sir Peter's bust on its pedestal ;
and on one side is a iigujre of Navigation, with a
wreath of laurel in her hsuid, gazing on the bust,
with a look of melancholy mixed wifti admiration.
Behind her is a cornucopia, pouring out fruit, com,
the fleece, &c. and by it is a cannon, an anchor,,
and other decorations. In the front of the monu-
ment is the following inscription :
Sacred to the memory of
Sir Pjeter Waioien,
Knight 'of the Bath, vice-admiral of the red
Squadron of the British fleet, tind
Men^ber of parliament
For the city and liberty of Westminster*
He derived his descent from an ancient
I Family of Ireland:
His fame and honours from his virtues and
Abilities.
How eminently those were displayed,
With what vigilance and spirit they were
exerted.
In the various services wherein he had the honour
to command,
And the happiness to conquer,
Will be more properly recorded in the
Annals of
Great Brixain.
On this tablet affection with truth must say,
' That deservedly esteemed in private life.
And universally renowned for his pubUo
Conduct,
S The
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LOin>0y AMD ')f§ IS^TIROAS. 495
The judiciotis and gallant officer
Pomesoed all the amiable qualities of the
Friend,
The gentleman, and the christian r
But the Almighty,
Whom alone he feared, and whose gracious
Protection
He had often experienced,
Was pleased to remove him from a place of
Honour
To an eternity of happiness,
On the 29<|i Day of July, 1752,
In the 4'9th year of his age.
On the nofth side of the entrance into the choir,
18 a beautiful and sUperb monument to Sir Isaac
Newton. The great man, to whose memory it w^as
erected^ is sculptiMred on it recumbent, leaning his
rigirt arm on four books, thus titled : Divinity, Chro-
nology, Optics, and Phil. Prin. Math, and pointing
to a scroll, supported by winged cherubs. Over
him is a large globe, projecting from a pyramid he^
hind, whereon is delihfeated the\!ourse of the comet
in 1680, with the digns, constellations, and planets.
On this globe sits the figure of Astronomy, with her
lK>ok shut, and' Iri a very thoughtful and composed
mood. Beneath the principal figure is a most cu-
rioils relief, reptiesenting the various labours in which
Sir Isaac chiefly employed his time; such as disco-
^ring the causer of gravitation, settling the princi-
ples of light and colours; and reducing the coinage
to a determined standard. The device of weighing
the sun by the steet-yard, has been thought at once
bold and striking, and, indeed, the whole monument
does honour to the sculptor. Tlie inscription on
the pedestal is in Latin, short, but full of meaning,'
miA iittiniatesv that, by a spirit nearly divine, he
¥ot. HI. I i i solved^
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solved, on principles of , his o^, ihe qtotion and
figure of the planets, the {laths of the coEoets,;aDd thcr
ebbing and flowing of the sea; that he discovered the
dissimilarity of the rays of light, and then properties
of colours from thence arising, which none but him-
self had ever dreamt of; that he was a diligent, wise,
and faithful interpreter of nature, antiquity, and the
holy scriptui^; that by his phtlct^phy he main-
tained the difl;nity of the Supreiiie.Being; and by the
purity of his life, the simplicity of the gospel. He
was born on the 25th of December, Itk-f, and died
on the 20th of March, 1726-7., .
On the other side of the enti*ance ipto the choir
is another magnificent monument, erected to the
memory of James, Earl Stanhope ;/ the principal
figure of which represents the earl leaning upon his
ann, m a cumbent posture^ holding in his right band
a general's staff, and in his Jeft a parchmenjt scrolL
Before him stands a Cupid, resting himself upon a
shield. Over a martjal tent sits a beautiful Pallas,,
holding in her right hand a javelin, and in the other
(L scroll. On the middle of the, pedestal are two ine«
dais, s^nd one on each side the pilasters. Under the
principal figure is a Latin inscription, sjQttipg fcfrtb
th^ merits of this great man as a soldier, a^Etfatesm^n,
and a senator. He died in 1721, in the 47jt&^e|U'of
his age.
Near the gate leading to the ^apals, is ^.)iw)d^
some monument to the memory of Dr. B.il^sbjf.. Qn.
It is the figure oC the doctor, in his go^n> loo)cioj^
earnestly on the inscriptipa. In his right h^i^- 1^
holds a pen, aiid iu his left a book opep. . IJndcini^sHtb,
on the |)edestal, are a variety of books, and .at the-
top his family arms. The inscnptipn is elegantly
written, and highly to bis praise: it iptjin^tes, tl)st
whatever fame the school of W.es^nvp^er boasts^
sod whatever advantages ma«kini;jk.|Sl)^^fp9p,frwi
i.thewre,
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 457
tfrence, in. time to come, are all principally owing to
the wise institutions of this great man. He was made
Blaster of Westminster College, in the year 1640;
el<3cted Prebend of Westminster, July 6, 1660 ; tred-
surer of Wells, Aug:u8t 1 1, the same year; and died.
April 5, 1695.
Having now taken notice of the monuments most
•worthy of observation, we shall return to Henry
VII.^s chapel, which, as has been already mentionecf,
is a distinct building from the Abbey.
This chapei, which is stiled by Leland, the Won-
f/er of fie Worlds is situated to the east of the Ab-
bey; to which it is so neatly joined, that, on a supeF-
fidial view, it appears to belong to the same building.
It is supported without by fourteen Gothic buttresses,
all beautifully ornamented, and projecting from
the building in different angles; and is enlightened
by a double range of windows, that throw the light
into such an advantageous disposition, as at once to .
please the eye, and inspire reverence. The buttresses
extend up to the roof, and are made to strengthen
it by their being crowned with Gothic arches. In
these buttresses are niches, in which formerly stood
a mimber of statues ; but these, being greatly de-
cayed, have been long ^ taken down.
The entrance to thi? edifice is, from the east end
of the Abbey, by a flight of steps of black marble,
under a very "noble arch that leads to the gates open-
ing to the body or nave of the chapel ; for, Jike a ca-
thedra), it is divided into a nave and side aisles, to
which there is a passnge by a door on' each side. The
gates, at the entrance of the nave, are of brass frame-
work, curiously wtought, and have, in every open
pannel, a rose and portcullis, alternately.
' Being entered, the eye is naturally directed to the
J^y*eeHff)g, which*i« wrought with such astonish-
^9 ing
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498 HISTORY AND 0UEYBY Off
ing variety of figures as to exceed description. The
stalls are of brown wainscot, with Gothic canopies,
most beautifully carved) as are the seats with scrange
devices; more particularly th^ Pftfying under tlie
{Seats, which are monstrous represeotatiooA of beasts,
but so strongly expressed by the artificer, that no-
thing on wood is now remaining equal to it.
The pavement is of black and white marble, laid
at the charge of Dr. Killegrew, oDce prebendfiiy of
this abbey, as appears from tw^o inscriptions,, one on
a brass plate, near the foupder's tomb, and the other
cut in the pavement. The view from th^ entrance
presents the brass chapel and superb tpmb of the
founder ; the work of Pjetro Torregiano,^ ^ Italian
sculptor, who had, for hi&^ bbour and the mat^ab,
one thousand pounds ; and round it, where the east
endforms a semi-circle, ar^ the chapels of theDukes
of Buckingham and Kicbnond.
The walls, both of the nave and side aisles,* are
adorned with the most curious imagery, and oontaiii
an hundred and twenty statues of patriarchs, saints,
martyrs, and confessors; under which are angels
supporting imperial crowns, beside innumerable small
ones, all of them esteemed so curious, that the best
masters are said to have come from abroad to take
a copy of them.
The roof of the side aisles is flattish, and sup-
ported by arches tttrning upon twelve stately Gothic
pillars, curiously adorned with figures, fruitage, and
foliage.
1 he windows, beside a spacious oi^e at the east
end, are thirteen on each side above, and as many;
below ; and were formerly of painted glass, having
in each pane a white rose, the badge of the House
of Lancaster, an H, the initial letter of the (bunder's
name, or portcullises crowned, the badge of the Beau^
fortes family ; of which tbeje ^rt SQme Kill icsnainiag.
Tht
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• The fei^b of tbk cbapel, withiQ» is niaety-nioe
fe^t» tha brea4tb .8i|:ty«»i;(, and the height fifty-ipuf .
,Tif» origioal intent of this cbapel waa w a qepu)-
chrfyia which none but the remains of the royal i^-
miiy were to be deposited ; and so fai: has the will
of the fiMinder >l^eeii observed* that iKme bav^yet
been iaterrt^d th^re^ but those of high quality, wb^
desceiit may gt qemiiy be traced from sobm of our
WC| wt kings.
In the.niiddle of the east end of the iia^e is 4itii*
ated the magnificent tomb of Plenry Vll. jaooi £ii3a^
.beth his qivieep. It is inclosed io a cpAriou* spreen
of cast hfdssy beautifully designed and well execute^.
Thi»>8«KW is iuaeteen feet in length, 0leye9 in
braadtb and the aam^ ia height; and ottiameBUi^
with statues, of which those only of St. George, Sik
James, St. Bartholomew, and £>t. Fdward, nre now
remaining. Within it are the effigies of the royal
pair, iq their robes of state, lying ciose to each other
OQ a tomb formed of a ba9altic stone* called in the
language of those days Touche^ the head of which is
Aipporied by a red dragon, the ensign of Cadwalla-
dar, the last king of the Britons, from whom king
Hepry VU. was fond of tracing his descent ; and
the foot by aii angel. There . are various devices
aUuding to bis family and alliances ; such as port«.
cullises, signifying hia relation to the Beaufoct's.by '
faici mothei's side; roses twisted and crowned io me*
inoi^ of the union of the two houses of Lancaster
snd Xock, by his ma^'riage ; and at each esida crowQ
in. a bush, alluding to the ccown of Kichard III.
found io 0, hvtwtbiirn, in Bosworth field. He died
the twenty rfiist of April, 1509, in thie Jfifty-third
year of his age.
Within the grate of the tomb was an altar of a
Biogle piece of touchstone, destroyed by the fimaticK;
to
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%iO ' -^'BrtSTORY Ai^D SURVEY" D*
to^wbiA-fce beqiieatlied ** our greteS piece "*of^ tte
hc^ CHTOSBei Which, by the high promioD of our
Lord God, wds convened, brought aod ddiverad to
Oisfrom the isle of Cyo, in Greece, set in gold and
gamidhed with perles and precious Btbnes: dnd also
' ttlr^ piMioufie relique of oon 6f fhe legges of St
Geotgei set in silver parcel-giite, which came into
4h^ hands ofonrbroder and cousyn^Lewys of France,
the time that he wan and recovered thecitie of Milleini
and giVeti and sent to iiaby our cousyne the cardinal
of Amtokse.^'*
At tt^ head of this tocib tie the reimins of Ed*
•Ward VI. gmndson^ to Henry VI I. who died in the
sixteenth year tif his age, and the seventh of his
wigQ. A fine monument was erected to his memory
ky queen Mary^ his sister and Accessor'; it was
aoorned with curious sculpture, representing the pas*
sion and resurrection of our Saviouf, With two angels
on the top kneeling, add the whole elegantly finished;
but it was afterwards demolished as a relict of Popish
0upe«stitk)n.
On one side of Henry's tomb, in a small chapel,
is'a monument of cast brass, in which are the efiigies
of Lewis Stuart, Duke of Richmond, and Frances
his wife. They are represented as lying on a marble
table under a canopy of brass curiously wrought;
' 9nd suppwted by the figures of Faith, Hope, Cha^
rtty, and Prudence. On the top is a figure of Fame
taking h^ flighty and resting only on her toe. This
illustrious nobl^tnan died the sixteenth of February;
1693;- and his lady the eighth of October, 16,19^
Here is likewise a pyramid of black and white tnarbie
supporting a small urn, in which is contained the
heart of Esme Stuart, son to the Duke of Richmond
and' Lenox, who died in France the fourteenth of
August, 1661.
Oa
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L09D09. AKD^'. Iff» %WtlB0H^4 40V
- On ffae'north side of tbtsitomb isV mbtfiniifiBtidle^i
Wtated with several embieaiatical %iines^ in:gHti
bvMS ; .the principal of whicb are Neptutieiin a ipdo^^
sive posture with bis trident reversed, and Mars with!
his head crushed. These figures support the tomb
on which lies* the effigy of George Villars, Duke of
Buckinghabi, the great favourite of Kiiig* James I.
aad King Charles I. who fell ft> sacrifl<5e to fiatioaal
resentmentv and perished by the hands 6f an'ie^ssin.
His duchess, Catharine, daughter of the £ttrl of
Rutland, who caused this monument to befi^eoted
to his memory, lies in effigy by his side on the same
tomb. There is a Latin inscription, which'representa
his high titles and honours, and alludes to the un-
happy ieause of his deaths
Of a later date, and superior in design and work-
manship, is a noble monument erected to themmaory
of John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; in which
his gfacQ^s statue, in a Roman habit, is laid in a half
raised posture on an altar of fine marble, andlhift
duchess, Catharine, natural daughter of the Duke of
York, aft^fWards James II. is standing at his feet
weeping/ On each side are military tiiophiesi and
over all ^u admirable figtir^tof Timej holding several
medallions, representing the heads of their Grace's
children.* This monument is greatly admired. It
has been observed that the 'duke hhnself appears the
principal figiire in the grpup, and though belies in a;
jecumbent posture, tod bis lady is placed, ^in the
moBt^ beautiful attitude at his/eet, }et;her figure iJiso«
characterized, as to be only a guide to his, and both
refl^ibiick j^ibeMtyjon each.mher.f The deoorations
^re extt^diy 4)lcture8quQ*aod elegant \ the trophies
at hiB M^^'thi figure o^iTimearbotvey with the
nMi^llions c^, hia childreOifiUUp all thi^ spaqw with
8uch:pro|^i^ty«vt^ftt little;. coukl be« addk'itf and no*^
thiag appears sup^t^QiM... The ioscri{Kion.i^sets'
. > forth
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499 IHMOKV ABIO- M7RTKT OF :
fbittKllie Diikeof Buckitighan's potts, «rd blb:(|Ua-
MGcations m apdet And a fine writer ; and o¥e^ fa»
stBtneisi inscribed soma Lstinsenttaoes iotthefollew-
iiig^^puiporti
. Ilived doubtfuji, npt dissdlnt^t .
I die upresotvf»dy not uanssigi^ed.
Igaotanc^ a^d error itfe incident to human natofie*
I trust in an Almighty and All;gopd God«
T^ou Kiog of Kings have mercy upon me*
And underti^atit :
For my King 6fteri, for my Country ahrays.
At the end of. the north aisle^ against the east
wall is a monument in the form of a beaiitiftfl altar^
rsised by King Charles 11. to the memory of £dward
V. and bis brother. The inscription, which is in
Latin^ is thus translated '* Here lie the fdi^fiies of
Edward V. Kine of £nffiaiKl, and Riekard,- Dwke of
York; wIk> being eonnned in the Tow««y ^^nd tl^re
fltiOsd with pillows^ wisre privately andittttaiklj^ buriecl
by order of tbnr perfidious iincle Bichapdthe usurper :
their bones^ long enquired after and wiifaed for, after
lying 901 years m the rubbisbof the staivs^ (those
latety leading to tbe chaf^l of die White Tower)
were, on the 7th of July, 1 674^ by undoubted proo6
discovered/ being buried deep in that pbce< Charles
U^ pityinfr their unhappy fate, ondered those anfoN
tmiate pnnces to be laid amongst the reliques of their
predecessors) in the year l678y and the 9(Mh ef his
reign.**
At the east end of the same siste is a vrntft, in
which are deposited themmsins of ¥aQg Jahies I.
and bis Qtteen Anne, wh*wai^dauglitert«>Fi^ederick
II* King of Deiimark. Thris' prince r^^ed over
Scotland fifty-nine yfam, and Ei^land twenty-ttwo;
spdditdchelfiihof Alarefarl^^ -
Over
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LOMDOV AND ITS BVVIKON8. ASS
Over this viiiilt is a small tomb aklomed vritfa the
figure of a child, erected to the memory of Maiy the
third daughter of James L who was born at Green-
wich in 1605, and died dt two years old.
There is also aoothcf monument, on which is the
representation of a child in a ccadle, erected to the
memory of Sophia, the fourth daughter of the same
king, who was bom at Greenwich in 1606, and died
thiee days after.
In this aisle, is a lofbjr and beautiful monument
widia canopy over it, erected to the memory of
Queoi Elizabeth by her successor King James L
The inscription describes her character thus: ^^ she
was the mother of her eoiintcy, and the patroness of
religion and learning: she was skilled in many Ian*
guages, adorned with every exoellence of mind and
person, and emdowed wiUi princely rirtues beyond
her H^L ; in her reign religion was refined to its
primitive purity; peace was establiriied; money Te-
stored to its juit value ; domestic insurrections quell-
ed; France delivered from intestine troubles; the
Netherlands supported; theSpanish armadadefeated;
Ireland, almost lost by the secret contrivance of
Spain, recovered ; the revenues of both universities
improved by a law of provisions ; and, in short, alt
England enriched; that she was a most prudent go-
verness, forty-Bve years a virtuous and triumphant
queen ; truly religious and blessed in all her great
afi&irs ; and that Bfter a calm and resigned death in
the seventieth year of her age, she eft her mortal
part to be deposited in this church, which she esta-
blished on a new footing, till by Christ's ^ord she is
called to immortality.^ She died the 24th of March,
in the year I602.
In the south aisle of this chapel is a iliagniAceDt
monument erected to the meraoi^'of M«r.v Queen
of Scots, the mother of King Jame^ l.'vrViO was be-
TOL. iii» K k k headed
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494 HISTORY AND SURVSY OF '
headed on the 8th of February, I587rat Fotheringbay-
castle in Northamptonshire, on a scaffold erected in
the hall of that oastie. She was afterwards pomp-
ously interrint by order of .Queen Elizabeth in the
cathredral church of Peterborough ; but, on the ac-
cession of her son to the throne of England, her re-
mains were removed from thence, and placed near
this monument amongst her ancestors. .
Near this, inclosed with iron rails, is a handsome
table monument, on which lies, finely robdd, the
effigy of Mai^ret Douglas, daughter of Margaret
queen of Scots, by the Earl of Angus. . Her son, th&
Lord Darnley, father to King James I. is repre-
sented foremost on the tomb kneeling with the crown
over his head: and there are seven others of her
children represetited round the tomb. This great lady,
though she herself never sat on the throne, had, ac-
cording to the English inscription, King Edward IV.
for her great grandfather ; Henry VII. for her grand-
lather; Henry VHI. for her uncle; Edward VI. for
her cousin german ; James V. of Scotland for her
brother, Henry, King of Scotland for her son, and
James VI. for her gi'andson. She had for her great
grandmother and grandmother, two queens, bpth
named Elizabeth; for her mother, -Margaret, Queen
of Scots ; fox her aunt, Afary, the JVench Queen ;
for her cousins German, Maryland Elizabeth, Queens
of England, and for her niece and daughter in law,
Mary Queen of Scots. She died March 10th, 1677.
At the east end of this aisle is the royal vault, in
which are deposited the coffins of King Charles II.
King William III. and Queen Mary his consort.
Queen Anne, and Prince George.
The nave of this chapel is used for the ceremony
of the installation of the Knights of ihe most ho-
nourable order of ^he Bath, which order was revived
by King Gi^orge i. in the year 1795. In their stalls,
which
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LONDON AND. ITS ENYIRONS 4i3
which are ranged on each side of the nave, are
brass plates of their arms, &c. and over them hang -
their banners, swords and helmets* Und^r the stalls
are seats for the esquires, of whom each knight has
three: their arms are also engraved on brass, and
placed upon the back of the seats.
Underneath the body of this chapel is the vault
prepared in 1737^ on the death of Queen Caroline, for
the reception of the present royal family. It consists
of a double range of arched chambt^rs, three on each
side, open to the middle walk between them. This
middle walk terminates with the principal vault in
fix)nt, where, in a large marble, sarcophagus, lie the
two coffins of the late King George II. and his
Queen Caroline ; the side boards of which'were, by^
the express command of the king, su constructed as
to be removed, in order that their dust might inter-
mingle. The coffins of Frederick, Prince of Wales,
his princess, two Dukes of Cumberland, the Duke of
York, Prince Frederick William, the Princesses
Amelia, Caroline, Elizabeth, and Louisa Anne, and
two infant sons of their present Majesties, the Prin-
ces Alfred and Octavius also lie here.
The exterior of this fine example of Gothic, ar-
chitecture is in a most ruinous condition. The roof
has been lately repaired ; but the turrets and the
arched buttresses are going fast to decay, and, if not
throughly repaired, must soon fall to total ruin.
From the south aisle of the abbey there are two
^itrances into the cloisters, which are entire, and
consist of four arched walks on the sides of an open
quadrangle. There are many monum^ts in these
walks, but as they have nothing particular to distin-
guish them we.shall pass them over, with the excep-
tion of four very ancient ones, on the pavement at
the east end of the south walk, under which lie the
remains of four of the Abbots of Westminster.
The
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436 UISTOftY AND 8URVST OW
The firet is of black marble, called Long Meg i rora
Its extraordinary length of eleven feet, eight inobes,
and covers the ashes of Gervasius de Blois, natural
son to King Stephen, whddied in 1 10^«
The second is a raised stone of Sussex marble^
under which lies interred the Abbot Laurentius, who
died in 1 176, and is said to have been the first who
obtained from Pope Alexander Ill.lhe privilege of
using the mitre, ring, and globe.
The third is a sioae of grey marble, to the menuny
of Geslebertus Crispinus, who died in the year 1 1 J4.
His effigy may be still traced on his grave-stone by
the fragments of his mitre and pastoral staff.
The fourth is the most ancient of all, and was
formerly covered with plates of brass inscribed to
the Abbot Vitalis, who died in 1082- All these seem
to have had their names and dates cut afresh, and aie
indeed fragments worthy preservation.
From the east side of the cloisters is the entrance
into the Chapter-house, through an archway, the
workmanship of which was in the first style of
Gothic elegance, but now much defaced. In the
centre of the design was the statue of the Virgin,
exquisitely finished, which has been removedto make
way for a mural monument, that also conceals a
great part of the surrounding decorations.
The chapter-house is of an octangular form, and
was originally very lofty, with a clustered* column
rising from the floor to support it, the groins of which
arched to the several angles of the structure. From
what remains uncovered and unmutilaled of the
ancient pert of this building there can be no doubt
that it was decorated with every degree of excellence
which the endless variety of Gothic ornament could
afford ; but since the place has been em][doyed as a
Fepositoiy for tb^* public records belonging to the
Treasury of the Exchequer, all t^e lower parts are
hidden
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IxmPON AMD in XNY»01I8« 4S7
liidden by preases and galleries, filled with rolls of.
parchment, that very little of its original mauuiti*
c^ice can be seen.
This structure owes its foundation to that magni*
ficent monarch Henry III. and was used for ihe
meetiiigB of the ComnionSf in the time of Edward
III. and several succeeding monarchs. Among the
ancient records^ at present deposited here, tha
curious edquirer will iind thos^ of the court of fitaN
chamber, and tlie original Doi2iesday-4xxiik« w)aiich is
still as legible as the first hour it was written.
Beneath thechapter*house is a very singular orypt.
The Toof, on which rests the floor of tha former, is
supported by ^ short, round pillar, quite hollow, at^d
spreads vifito piiain massy ribsw The wails are not less
' than eighteen tieet thick, and form a secure base to
the superstructjure. They were fornaerly pierced
with several small windows, which are now concealed
by the vast increase of eaith on the outside : oiie
only is just visible in the garden of an adjoining
house, from which alone the crypt is accessible.
Against the south west part of the west front of
the abbey is the north front of the Jerusalem cham-
ber, which was built by Abbot Littlington, and was
part of the abbot's lodgings. It is remarkable
for being the place where Henry IV. hreatbed bii^
last. .
Noith from the abbey stood the Sanctuary, the
place of refuge allowed in old times, to crimioals of
a certain description. The church belonging to it
was in the form of a cross and double ; one being
above the other^ It was of vast streng4ih, and re-
quired great labour to demoUsh it. Kdward the
Confessor is supposed to have founded it. Within
its precincts Edward V. was born ; and here his un-
happy mother took refuge, with her younger son
Richard, to secure him from his uncle; who had
already
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458 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
already possession of the King. The site pf this «aoc«
, tuary wasafterwardsoccupied by Westtnitister-market,
ivhich, in its turn, has given way toanew court-bouse,
now building for the accommodation of the West-
minster magistrates.
To the west of the Sanctuary stood the Eleemo-
synary, or Almonry, where the alms of the Abbey
were used to be distributed ; but it is more remarka-
ble for having been the place where the first print-
ing press ever known in England was set up. Here,
in 1474, William Caxton, probably encouraged by
the learned Thomas Milling, at that time abbot,
produced " The Game and Play of the Chesse,^' the
first book printed in these kingdoms. There is a
slight difference of opinion, respecting, the exact
place where this book was printed, but all s^pree, that
It was within the precincts of this religious house.
At a small distance from the north door of the
Abbey, stands the parish church of St. Margaret.
This church was originally erected by Edward the
Confessor, who, having resolved to rebuild the con-
ventual church of St Peter with great magnificence,
imagined that it would be a dishonour to his new and
stately edifice, to have the neighbouring people as-
semble in it as usual, for the performance of religious
worship, as well as prove troublesome and inconve-
nient to the monks; therefore, about the year 1064,
he caused a church to be erected on the north side
of St. Peter's, for the use of the neighbouring inhabi*
tants, and dedicated it to St, Margaret, the virgin and
martyr of Antioch.
This church, which is situated only thirty feet to
the north of tha Abbey, was rebuilt in the reim of
King Edward 1. by the parishioners and merchants
of the staple, except the chancel, which was erected
at the charge of the Abbot of Westminster. In the
year 1735, it was not only repaired, but its tower
was
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LONDON AND ITS £NYIBOirS. 439
vn9 cased, at the expense of thi^e ikhousand five
hundred pounds^ granted by parliament, in considera*
tidn of its being the church where the House of
Commons attend divine service on stated holidays,
as the Peers <fo in Westminster Abbey.
. . It is a plain, neat, and not inelegant, Gothic
structure, weii enlightened by a series of large win-
dows. . It has two handsome galleries of considerable
length, adorned in the front with carved work: these
are supported by slender pillars, which rise to the
roof, and have four small black piilars running along
each, of them, adorned with gilded capitals, both at
the galleries and at the top, where the flat roof is
neatly ornamented with stucco. The steeple consists
of a tower, which rises to a considerable height, ^nd
is crowned with a turret at each comer, and a small
iantem, ornamented with carved work in tfie center;
fiom whence rises a flag-staff.
In 17^8, this church was again repaired and or-
namented at the public expense ; and, lately, the
inside has been entirely rebuilt, and a new porch
added at the west end.
At the east end of the church is a very beautiful
window of painted glass, made by order of the ma-
gistrates of Dort, in Holland, and designed by them
as a present to King Henry VII. for his new chapd
in Westminster Abbey. But that monarch dying
before it was finished, it was set up in the private
chapel of the Abbot of Waltham, at Copt-hall, near
Epping. At the dissolution of that monastery, it was
removed to New-hall, in Essex, which coming afi:er-
wards into the possession of General Monk, he pre-
served the window from the destroying hands of the
fanatics. In 175b, when this church underwent a tho-
roughrepair, it was purchased by the inhabitants, from
the then owner, for four hundred guineas, and placed
in its present situation. The subject is our Saviour's
crucifixion;
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44A OlftFOftV ASP tfH&VEY 09
cracifixioo ; but there aie naojF. sutprdinate figures,
whjdb are finely executed. Ott one wle 18 Henry
YU. and ooi the other his (|ueeQv both kneeliiig.
Their portndls were taken ftram origiMl pictures sent
to Dort for that purpose. Over the kUig is the figure
of St* Geotge, his patroa saints mdi al^ve that, a
white rose and .a red one* Over the queen is the
figure of St. Catharine, of Ale^ndria, and, above
htf head, the anus of the kingdon» of Greeds.
This church is a rectory, in the gift of the Dean
«m} Chapter of WestminsDer^ It js one hundred and
thirty feet in length, sixty-fivie in breadth, and fi>rty-
five in height ; the altitude .o£ the tower, to th^ tpp
of the pinnacles, is eighty^fiv<9 feet*
. To the east of this c|ikuroh, andle&tending to the
Thaniesyistbesiteof theorigiml royal pialaceof West-
minster, founded by £dward> the Confessor, the &at
prince who had a regular residence here The staics
item it to the river ^11 retain the name of Palace-
stairs; aad the; two Palaf:e^yands also bdonged to
this extensive palace.
Many parts of this ancient pulace^atitt, exist, con*-
verted iAto other uses. The.great ball was built, or
poasibly rebuilt « by William Rufus* a great hall being
too necessary an app^fidage to a palace ever t& have
been neglected. The entrance into it, fram New
Palaee<»yard, was bounded on each side by towera,
noost magoificratiy ornamented with statues,^ in rows
above each other, now lost, or concealed by modem
buildings.. In the reign of Richard II. the old
building had becon^e so ruinous that he ordered it to
he pulled down ; and the present hall, which is now
know by the name of Westnsiinster hall, was erected
in its frt;ead and completed in the year 1397$ and
called the New Palace to distinguish it from the
Old Palace, where the Houses of Lords and Commons
meet.
I ThU
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LOKDOK AHD ITS ESnumtSj 441
-This dbcient butUing.ia €f * stODe^^Uhe front of
which is omametited'With twatowiem, adorned with
carved work. The ha^l, within,- is reckoned the
largest .room in Europe* unsupported by pillars, be-
ing two hundred and seventy ieet in length, -and
seventy^four in breadth. The pavemertt is of stone,
and thereof of oak, of curious Gothic workmanship,
wtich is greatly admired. The candlivers which sup-
port the roof, fire decorated with angels, each bearing >
in his hands a shield, with the arms of Richard. II.
or those of £dward the Confessor. It was formerly
covered with lead, but that being found too weighty,
it has been for some years past covered with
slates.
In the year 1399) King Richard held his Christ*
mas here; during which time, the number of his*
guests, ^ho were entertained in this hall, and the
other rooiQS of the palace,- amounted to ten thousand;
for who^e supply, eighty oxeo, three hundred sheep,
and an innumerable quantity of poultry were daily
killed-.
Parliaments frequently sat in this hall, and in it
was held, the ancient court of justice, in which the
king presided in person.
la thi^ hall the Kings of England have for many
ages, past held their coronation feasts. It is also ge-
nerally used for the trying of peers accufeed.of high
treason, or any other crimes committed against the
state ; and it was in this hall that Charles I. was.tried
by a self*constituted court of judicature. Ever since
the reign of Henry III. the three great courts of
Chancery, King's-bench, and Common-pleas, have
been held here ; and the court of Exchequer is also
held in an apartment belonging to the old palace,,
the entrance to which is from this hall.
. The most ancient of the courts held under this
venerable roof, is that of the chancery, which took its
. VOL. III. L 1 1 name.
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442 ttSCMET AMD SUKVSY 0»
name, GamnelUma^ finm the cmsd-baw cf kon^^ or
wood> cflUed b^ the BowiaiiB^ ca$u»Uii, wMi wbieh iC
was formeily inclosed, to prteeiit the odkersheiag
iDcoiBmocied by the croirdiog* of the^ pmpte. The
supreoieaml sole jiuige of this ccutt is the lord h%h
^haojcelbe. This gteat officer, who is assialed hy the
masters in GhfiQcery, takes precedency after the Arch~
bishop o£ Cautechury; and, nes4i to the kin^' aad
princes of th^ b)ood, ie the highest pelson* m Aa
kiagikiin in eivii affaiis^ He is ^oevalfy keeper ef
the great seal, and is theace stiled Lord^keeper.
The first chancellor we find on recopd was Uflf-
wooR, chancellor t;o OSsi^ K.^"? ^ Mercia, who
reigned from the year 7-57 to 79^). Till about the
year 1669s this high office waa^mostJy filled with
ehurchmeo, who presiding over the king's chapet^
became keepers: of tht^ king^s Ktonscie^te ; and, ia
TijtMe of this oflce, the lord chiiiiceik)r for the lime
being, ia visitor, in righted the king^ of all hospitals
ail^d Colleges o£ the kuig^s^ftm^dati^m; andpalvon of
ail the king's livings, under the value of twenty
pounds per annum, in the kii>g^ books.
The chancery consists of two- distinct tribunals;
the one ordinary, being a court of common laW.; the
other. extraoixlinaiy,)>eing a court of eqoity. In ease
of the izhftncellofs absence, bis place upon the bench
is suppli^ by the Master of the Rolls.
In this court is. kept the n/^'i^ma ;W^^, out ol
which ave issued writs for parliament, charters^ pa-
tents for. sheriffe, writs.of cet^tiorari to remove re-
cords and felse judgments: in inferior coititS) writs of
mo^rata misericomia^ when a person bes been
amerced too high, and ihr a reasonable part ^f goods
for iW.ic|ows and orp})ans« Here also ane sealed and
enrolled treaties with foreign princes, letters patents
oocHmtssions of appeal, oyer and terminer, bank-
rupts, &C,
... No
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LOKpov anA its emviroks. 445
No.jttriies are summODed to this court, for the V6^
lions are all by bill, or plaint^ and 4tie depositionB df
the witiietaeb ^ire taken at the £arataiit»im)t}*office,
and afterwards read in court as sufficient evidence :
BO that thedetertninatioB of the sentence is vested
in ^he judg^alcMie.
The twelve masters in chancery are assistants of
the cfastfKeUor, or lord-keeper; the first of ivhotn ik
master of the rolls, which is a place of gneat dignitv^
and is in the gift of the king. These geniletneii sit
at Westminster*haU, widi the loitl chancellor, threfe
at a tioiei while the term lasts, and t^o at a time,
wtien the cfaaneeUor sits to heai' causes in his tma
bouse.
This court is held on the right-hand sid^ bf th^
stairs leading up to the court of Requests, and oppo-
site to it is that of the King's-bench : the ancient
Curiia Domini Regis; a court in which the kingwai
formerly accustomed to sit in person. T^ejusticiariui
Anglice presided when the king did not ; but on the
supfvession of that office, iti 1967) the name was
changed to camialisjusiiciarius, and the first chief
justice was Rooert de Brus.
As the king in person is still presumed in law to
Sit in this court, though only represented by the
judges, it is said to have supreme authority, and the
proceedings are supposed to be coram nobis, that is,
before the king.
All cHmes against the public good, though they
do not injure any particular individual, are under the
cognisance of this court ; and no subject can suffer
any unlawful violence or injury against his person,
liberty, or possessions, but a proper remedy is af-
forded him^ here ; not only for satisfaction of damages
sustamed, but for the punishment of the offender :
and ttrbenever the court meets with an offence, con-
trary
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^44 HISTORY ANB StmVEY OF ^
.trafy to the principles of justice, al^ough not com*
plaioi^d of, it oiay punish it
The court of King's-bench is divided into a crown
side and a plea side; the one determining ci^minai,
<an^ the, other civiU causes. On the crown side it
has jurisdiction in all criminal causes, from high trea-
son to the mcfet trivial misdemeanour, or breach of
the peace* On the plea side, it determines all personal
actions, commenced by bill or writ ; as actions of
debt, upon the case, detinue, trover, ejectment, tre^
pass, waste, &c. against any one in the custody of
. the marshal of the court; as every person sued here
is supposed to be in law. The court consists of a
lord chief justice^ who takes precedence next to the
lord chancellor, and of three puisne justices, or
judges.
About the middle of the hall, on the right hand
Bide, is the court of Common-pleas, the next in se-
niority. Originally, the Communia placita followed
the king's court wheresoever it happened to be; but
this being found a great inconvenience, it was reme-
died by tlie tyventy-second article of Magna Charta;
which provides, that the Common-pleas shall not
follow the court, but be held in some certain place ;
and Westminster-hall, as being in the principal
palace of our kings, was the place appointed. The
first chief justice was Gilbert de Preston, appointed
in 123J.
M\ civil causes, as well real or persona^ are, or
formerly were, tried in this court, according to the
strict law of the land. In personal and mixed actions,
it has a concurrent jurisdiction with the King^s-
bench, but has no cognizance of pleas of the crown.
The actions belonging to the court of Common-pleas
come thither by original, as arrests and outlawries ;
or by priyil^e or attachment, for or against privileged
nersQns ; or out of inferior courts, not of record. Like
9 the
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IXmW)^ ^St> ITB ENViaOKS. 445
the Kiiig's Bench it id composed of a Lord Chief
Justice and three other judges; but no person can
plead, here,, except atNisi Prius, until he has been ,
called up to the degree of a Serjeant at law.
On entering the hall, at the great north gate, there
are: stairs on each side : those on the right hand lead
to the court of Exchequer ; and those on the left, to
the office where the revenue is paid in, called the
Receipt of the Exchequer.
The couit of Exhequer is so called from a che-
quered cloth, which anciently covered the table
where the judges or chief officers sat. This court
was first established by William the Conqueror^ for
the trial of all causes relating to the revenues of the
crown; itsniodel being taken from a like court esta-
blished in Normandy, long before that time. An-
ciently, its authority was so great, that it was held iii
the king's palace, and the acts of it were not to be
examined or controuled in any other of the king's
courts; but at present, it is the last of the four courts
at Westminster. Originally, a certain number of
lords spiritual and temporal sat as judges; but the
present judges of this court are, the Lord Chief Ba-
ron of the Exchequer, and three other judges, called
Barons of the Exchequer. There is also one called
the Cursitor Baron, before whom the sheriffs are
sworn into their office;, but he does not sit upon the
bench. If any case should appear so difficult that
the judges are divided in their opinion, the vote of
the Chancellor of the Exchequer finally determines
the matter.
To the south of Westminster-hall is that part of
the old palace which, was used for the meetings of
the peers, and thence called the House of Lords. But
since the late union of Great Britain and Ireland, the
spacious rocMn, called theCourt of Requests, has been
Atted up for that purpose ; and the tapestry hangings^
and
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446 HISTORY AND MWi^Wt fUt
«nd furaitiire of the fonaer Houteof JmA faatfe
|)eeq removed hither.
The outside of tl^e south end of this loom diows
the great antiquity of the l>uildiBg« having ia it two
great round iichesi with aig^ oiouldiags, our most
imcieot species of architecture. This court took its
name from being that wher^fi a}l sails made to th^
king by ly^y ^^ petition were h^ffd tad ended ; and
it was also called the Poor Mm% Courts because
there he coydd have , fight without being piit to
expense* ., . '
The present House of (jords does ilot oecupjr^i^
whole of the Court of lUquelstbt ikatt'of the berd)
end being formed intoailobby^ i^ which the torn-
mons pa3s to the upper hous^ ; tbi height is aisi>
greatly reduced by an elevated floor of wbdd dvitf
the original stone pavement. Th6 fitting up of the
toora is nearly similar to that of the old one. Th«
^jiesign of the fine old tapestry with which it is hung
was drawn by Cornelius Vroom, and the taptetry was
executed by Francis Spieridg. Vroam had a bun-
dred pieces of gold for his lalx>ur: the tapestry itself
cost one thousand six hundred and twenty ^gbt
pounds. It represents the defeat of the Spanish
armada in loSS, and was bespoke by the Earl of
Nottingham, Lord High Admiral, and commander in
chief in the engagement The earl sold it to James
I. but it was not put up till the year I6i50, two years
after the extinction of monapchy, when the Home of
Lords was used as a committe-room by theCommons*
Before it was put up in its present situation it was
cleaned and is now judiciouidy set off by hrge frames
of brow^ stained wood,, that divide k into four oom-
partmeiits, respectively containing th6 several p^^
tiopsL^jof .the story, vi2. 1 • The fint- apfMctrance of
t^^pWish fleet. 3. The sevclral forma in which it
lay at q^^erent times on our coasts. 2^ The place
» .. ana
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waASefSMMon of it when engaged wtdi the Enghrii
BeefL JloBtd huntt^, ils .departure.
The head» oCithe sntal heraesi who qomaande^
on tiwik ^ofidua As^y farm a matchlefls- bordilr vound
llie < wQrib^ laaiinadiig peBterily . tOi emukte their lUiUi*
triousiexaif|)feJ<:
At<tfae upper «8ui ;of .th^ rmoat Ib die diione, on
whichitbekjHig i%Beiited,6B partiiicutaroaeaaons^ in him
lolbeSiiiMdLiimccotaiim his bead, and adonxd withr
^;tlke eutgm of maj^HBtyi (i)te itheirighft band oil
the throne is a seat for the Prince of Waks; on thd
fait iaiaootfaerfion die msxt pciBOiiof the npfyai ikmiiy ;
aiubbehindi the^thoone are places for the yoiuigpMi9
iirbo JuvreoKl/nretes in the lH»Hdev ^ '
. JBbBdatfaf'tfaediroiievOnftheking^s right hand wt^
the^teaita of Ihe two archbidldps, anda Jsttiie beloir
thctnfth^'hincb of bishops^ Aifore the ihmiteai^
thfee broad asateacreas. thetroom^ on which me seatedl
tjie-^d^gnilancs of the ItM, On the fimt of tbcM
Heanest the thioiie site Aleiloid i^hancellor, or Itaepef
oPthe gTMi seat, who^. bye hk office^ is speaker of thia>
house of lords :. on the 6dier two sit the lord daaUst
jpstibefitlvb master of therolls^ and the othen judges,
Ti^bcikMbild oidcasitinally to be oonsuified in pointEUof
laiB. wfVh^ bfeoches. l6nthe> lordd are coridred with
Mdvkitbi4iariidUiiiir& isi a; bairia,cio8s the house at the
eiMbioppiMlfe (hpKthethroisel^ Without the bar sits
tke; kiiif Jinpti gentlemati usfaer^ called the Black
liadlliiiMmmUpQk '^mnA he caortei in his hand*
VDd(Mdi)qa.isai^oiDanlu^er who waitsattbe inside
of'liv^tei'; aocrier #ithour>»aad aserjeantat maoe,
whoubvtiySiatHidsaAoUird ohancellor, ^
When the^eing A present with the crowD on his
head; thelorife sit uncovened^ and the judges stand
till his majesty gives them leave to sit. In the king's
absenpe. dbe brds, at their enlraoce, do reverence to
tlie. throne^* aadoaU who enter the presence ch^m*
ber.
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448 Hisamra ARo sratvcnr ot
ber. The judges, ii^ the king's aiisteoev ttHut liot he
covered till the lord^cfaanc^tkM- or keeper: eognifieB to
themtfaattbe lords permit themso^tobe.* . .
The <kiiig usually goes in state to the liouiBe of
Lords on the first and last days of the Sessions, when
he opens or closes the parliament with a speech iiroiB'
the throne ; and he ako goes octesionally during the
session to pass such bills as require dispatch.: but
either of these parts of the royal ofitoe-mi^/be ex-*
erciaed.by commissioners specially autbmzed- for
that purpose.
: On his majesty's arrival at the House of Loids^ be
tntMB a . room adjoining to it, called the iiViiice^
Chamber, where he puts oA iiis robes and crown, and
from thence is conducted into the house by the lord
chamberhun, where all the lords are dressed in their
scarlet robes ; and his majesty, being seated on the
throne, sends for the commons by the 'gentleman
usher, of the Black Rod, When the commons appear,
his majesty's speech is read ioy the lord chancellor to.
this grand united assembly; after which his migesty
return^ ia the same state as he came.:
The House of Lords, in conjunction^^ thelung
and commons, have the power not only of Miking
and repeaUng laWs, but of constitutinf; the sttfueme
judictri;ure of the kingdom ; the IchxIb htse'
bled take cognissance of treasons aad lilUb crifliea
committed by the peers and others ; try JMIpho am
impeached by the commons ; and acquit or MMtaM
without taking an oath, only laying tlieir jsghi iMHid
upon their breast, and sayings Ouiuy^ or Not ^wMty^
upon mif honour. They feoeire ideate from ful
other courts, and even sometimes feveMe^he decrees
of chancery ; and from this highest tribunal hes no
appeal.
All the lords spiritual and temporal have the pecu^
liar privilege of appointing proxies to vote in. their
stead.
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t0MD6n AKD Its tVTIEOVS 44f
itead^ when (torn «ckne88 or any other cause, they
caoaot conveoieatly appear ; but duck as would
make proxies ace obliged, at the beginning of every
j^liameoty to eitter tfaeoi in person* Each peer has
also a right, by leave of the house, when a vote passes
contrary to his aentimeots, to enter his dissentxin
the journals of the house, widi the reasons for such
dissent, which his usually stiled his pmtest.
The lords give thar suffrages or votes, beginfiing
at the puisne, or k>west baron, and theii proceeding
in a regular series, every one answering apart, content j
or not content. If the affirmatives and negatives are
equal, it pass^ in the negative, the speaker not
being allowed a voice, unless he be a peer of the realm.
Adjoining to the south east angle of Westminster
Hall is a building called St. StefHien's Chapel, frcmi
having been foimerly dedicated to that saint. In the
year 1347, it was rebuilt in a magnificent manner by
King Edward IIL who converted it into a collegiate
church : but on its suppression in the reignof fidward
VL it was adapted for the assembly of Uie represent *
. tatives of the commons of England ; for which pur-
pose it has been used from that time to the present,
and is now- generally known by the name of the
House of Commons.
This is a spacious room, wainscoted to the ceiling,
from the center of which hangs a very handsome
branch • It is large enough to hold six hundred per*
SOBS ; and about it are very commodious apartments.
The benches for the members gradually ascend one
i^bove another, and are covered with green cloth: th^
floor is matted, and round the house are galleries
supported by slender iron pillars adorned with~Co<*
rinthian capitals and sconces, in which strangers ara
often permitte;d to sit and hear the debates.
The chair in which the speaker sits is at the upper
^end of the room; it is ornamented behind with
vox,. III. M'm m Corinthian
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4^0 HtSTOBY AKD SUEVEY Ot
Corinthian c6luiniis, and over it are the king's anm
carved, and placed on a pediment. Before the
speaker is atable, at which the clerk and his assistant
^t near him on each hand, just below the chair ; and
on either side the room, as well below as in the gal-
leries, the members are placed promiscuously.
The speaker and clerks always wear gowns in the
house, as the professors of the law do in term time ;
but no other of the members ever wear robes, except
the first day of every new parliament, when the
four representatives^ for the city of London are dress-
ed in scarlet gowns, and sit all together on the right
hand of the chair next the. speaker.
. The House of Commons have an equal share with
that of the Lords in making laws ; nor can any be
made without the consent of the Commons, who are
the guardians of the liberties of the people: and as
they are the grand inquest of the nation, they have a
power to impeach the greatest lords in the kingdom,
both spiritual and temporal.
The west front of this ancient building, with its
beautiful Gothic window, is still to be seen in as-*
ceudingthe stairs to the Couit of Requests : it con-
sists of the sharp pointed species of Gothic. Be-
tween it and the lobby of the house is a small vesti-
bule of the same sort of work, and of great elegance.
At each end is a gothic door, and one in the middle,
which is the passage into the lobby. On the south
side of the outer wall of the chapel, appear the
marks of some large Gothic windows, with abutments
between, and beneath, some smaller windows, oncei
of use to light an under chapel.
The undercroft or basement chapel has been a
most beautiful building ; a great part of which is still
preserved. It consists of five divisions, made by
clusters of columns supporting the groins, in which
are bosses, with rich religious basso relie\'os, of simple
and
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LOUDON AND ITS EKViaONJ. 4ik
ud raaaey forms, well calculated to sustain, and give
a pleasing introduction to the light and refined ele-
gance of the profuse enrichments in the chapel above-
A part of jt IS the present passage from Palace-yard
to Westminster-hall.
One side of the cloister is entirely preserved, by
being found convenient as a passage; the roof is
Gothic workmanship, so elegaut as to surpass the
beautiful roof of Henry's Vll chapel.
A gallery runs over each side of the cloister, from '
one part of which is a flight of stairs leading to ^
very ancient square tower of stone, standing almost
close to the side of Westminster-hall, which proba-
bly was a belfry, to hold the bells that roused the
members of the chapel to prayers.
Close to Waghom's Coffee House in Old Palace
Yard, in the crypt beneath the old House of Lords,
is the vault or cellar, in which the conspirators of
l60d lodged the gunpowder, designed to annihilate,
at one blow, the three estates of the realm.
Adjoining to the house of Lords is the Prince s
Chamber, where the king is robed when he com^
in state to the parliament. This apartment is bung
all round with tapestry. The subject of the com-
partment on the west side is the birth of Queen "^
Elizabeth. Anne Boleyn is in a grand bed, with
hangings and appropriate decorations, receiving cor-*
dials from her attendants, some others of whom are
employed in taking care of the royal infent. On the
right' is Henry VliL in regal state, surrounded
by bis nobles and guards, giving his orders on this
important occasion. The remainder of the cgni-
partnients, except one which contains a rural sub^
ject, is made up with the different occurrences
attendant on a battle, and total discomfiture of one
On
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459 KISIDBT A19J> CDBVEY OV
On the other side is the Fiainted Chamber, which
16 at present used for the occasional conferences be-
twe^i the two houses of parliament. It is a loDg,
lofly room, enlightened by windows of the ancient
simple God^ic, and is aUo hung with some beautiful
ancient tapestry, in six different compartments, re-
presenting some of the principal events in the siege
of Troy- From the circumstance of part of the
history of that cdebrated siege being wanting, it is
presumed that it does not, at present, occupy its ori-
ginal situation > which fhom tl^e height of toe hang*
ings agreeing with that of the walls of the great hall,
from the pavement to the sills oi the windows, is
supposed to haye be^i there; and this conjecture is,
in some degree, corroborated by an ob9ervati<Hi in
Stow's Survey (p. 470. Edit, 1603), who, qtieaking
of a royal feast, given by Henry VIL on Twelfth-day,
in thie ninth year of his reign, to the lord mayor, aN
dermen, and commoners of London, says, ^* And after
dinner, dubbing the maior knight, caused him, wi^
his brethren, to stay and behold the disguisings, and
other disports, in the night following shewed in the
great hall, t0hich was richfy hanged wiik armfr/' This
room is said to have been Edward the C<»ifes8or'a
bedchamber ; whiJe others assert, that it was erected
by St. Thomas a i3ecket; but neither of tbeae asser-
tions appear to rest on any solid foundation: it is,
howeyer, certain, that it waa included in the andent
palace of Westminster, It was in this room' that the
warrant for the execution of Charles I. was signed ;
and here was held that celebtoted conference between
the Lords and Commons, which, though ineffectual
Ht the tin^e, was followed by the glorious Reyo^
lution.
On the south side of Westminster Abbey is West*
lOinster^school, or college, founded by Queen Eliza-
\ beth.
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i^
^l
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LOirSOir AMD ITS SKTIKONS. 45S
bcth, in tiie year 1590^ for the educntinn of forty
boys, who, have been ever since called the Queen 's^
or King's schoian^ as the case happens to be. 'i hid
school, since its establishmait, has been rendered ope
of the most considerable in the kingdom ; it having,
for several years p^t, been likewise the place of edu«
cation for many of the sons of the nobility and gen-
try, for the acconunodation of whom there are sevei^al
boarding-houses in the neighbourhood.
Out of the scholars on the foundation, a certaiu
aumber of them, when properly qualified, are sent
to the UniverBities, via. to Trinity College, in 1 am-
bridge, ttid to Christ Church, in Oxford, where they
have a very competent maintenance from the founda-^
tien ; the former till they are fit for the ministry ; the
latter for life. The scholars have each a black gown
every year; and there are four of them that are dis-
tinguished by the name of Lords Scholars, who wear
purple gowns, and receive an annual stipend from
the treasurer of the college, out of certain rents, set-
tled for that purpose, by John. Williams, D*D. Lord-
keeper of the Great Seal, and Archbishop of York*
This prelate was also a great benefactor to the
library of this college, which is well furnished with a
good collectiw of books, and is open every term.
There appears to have been a school here from the
first foundation of the Abbey. Ingulphus, Abbot of
Crowland, speaks of his having been educated at it;
and of the disputations he had with the queen of the
Confessor, and of the presents she made him, in mo-
ney, in hi^ boyish days*
in St Margaret's parish are n^any charitable founda^^
tions, by different persons, for the relief of the poor.
Among these, near TothilUfields, is the Grey- coat
Hospital, founded by tetters patent, in the year
l70^Yf or seveaiy boys,and forty girb, who are main-
tained
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454 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
tained widi ail necessaried, and put out to diiSewnf
trades, according to their abilities.
Here is also another charitable (oundation, called
the Green- CO AT Hospital, for the relief of poor
fatherless children of this parish, established by King
Charles I. in the year 1653, tvho endowed it with
fifty pounds per annum, which is paid out of the
Treasury. This hospital was rebuilt at the charge of
Dr. Busby, and Charles Twitty, Esq. in the year
1700.
, Near the Green-coat Hospital, by Tothill-fields, is
a bridewell, or house of correction, for such as beg,
live idly, or lead loose lives, in this city or its liber-
ties, it is also a jail for criminals, who comoiit of-
fences within the said city and liberties; and was so
made by act of parliament, in the reign of Queen
Anne.
Lady Ann Dacres Alms-houses, called £manuel-
College, were founded by her, on the 17th of De-
cember, anno 1601, for ten pix>r men and ten poor
women (each of whom has liberty to bring up one
, poor chiki), according to the settlement) for seven-
teen of St. Margaret's parish, one of Hayes, and two
of the parish of Chelsea ; though over the door it is
said to-be for sixteen of St. Margareti2s palish, two
of Hayes, and two of Chelsea. She gave one hun-
dred pounds per annum, issuing out of the manor of
Bramsburton, in the county of York, until the ex-
piration of a lease of one hundred and ninety •'nine
y^ars; and afterwards, the whole manor (said to be
worth six hundred pounds per annum), is to^accruct
to augment this foundation. The one hundred pounds
is paid out of the chamber of London, and is under
the care and inspection of the lord mayor and court
of aldennen. No person that is wicked, or cannot
say the creed and ten ootnmandments in English,
.or
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LONDOIf AND ITS ENVIRONS. 455
«>r umfer fifty years of age, or who has inhabited less
than three years in one of the said respective parishes,
to be admitted into this hospital.
South of Westminster Abbey stands the parochial
church of St. John the Evangelist.
The parish of St. Margaret being greatly increased
in the number of houses and inhabitants, it was
judged necessary to erect one of the tifty new
churches within it. This church being finished, was
dedicated to St. John the Evangelijt; a parish was
taken outof St.Margaret's,and the parliament granted
the sum of two thousand five hundred pounds, to be
laid out in the purchase of lands, tenements, &c. for
the maintenance of the rector ; but, besides the profitsr
arising from this purchase, it was also enacted, That,
as a farther provision for the rector, the sum of one
hundred and twenty-five pouncjs should be annually
raised, by an equal pound rate upon the inhabi-
tants.
This church was begun in 1731, and finished in
1738, and is remarkable only for having sunk while
it was building, which occasioned an alteration, in
the plan. On the north and south sides are magnifi-
cent porticos, supported by vast stone pillars, as is
also the roof of the church. At each of the
four corners is a beautiful stone tower and pin-
nacle: these additions were erected, that the whole
might sink equally, and owe their magnitude to
the same cause. The parts of this building are"
held together by iron bars, which cross even the
aisles.
The advowson of this church is in the Dean and
Chapter of Westminster: and to prevent this rectory
being held in commendam, all licenses and dispen-
sations for holding iit are, by act of parliament, de-
clarefl null and void.
Beyond
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45(S 1II970RY AND SURVEY OF
Beyond this church is the aocient Hone-t&nyf
between Westminster and Lambeth, which was sup«
pressed on the building of Westminster-bridge ; and
a sum of three thousand pounds settled on the
Archbishops of Canterbury, who were the pro-
prietors of this ferry, in lieu of the profits arising
from it.
CHAP xxxvn
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tOtSiDOU XHJ> 1X9 tiNTlttOl^Sk . 4i7
CHAP. XXX\1L
The Liberty of the Duchy of Luncaster.^^^Sl. Cleinent
Danes. -^Outer Temple.*^Essex'house.*^Clement*S'tnn .
'^^Clement'S'Well.'^^New'inn.-'^^^IJon^S'inn.^^-^Clare'-
tnarket. — Picketi-street. — ArfrndeC-^house.^'^'^ Craven-^
bouse. — Craven-buifdings.''^St. Mary'le-Slrand. — The
Mojf'pole. — Somerset ^nouse.-^The Savoy .-^Si, Mary-
le-Savoy. — Eixeter- Exchange.
We shall begin the Survey of th€ Liberties of
Westminster at Temple-bar, on the outsicle of which ^
begins the liberty of the Duchy of Lancaster, which
was granted to reter of Savoy, from whom it passed
to the House of Lancaster, by Henry liL in the
thirtieth year of his reign, in the following words,
^^ All those houses upon the Tliames, which sOme
time pertained to Brian de Insula, or Lisle, without
the walls of the city of Lofidon, in the way or street
called the Strand, to hold to hin^ and to his heirs,yield-
ing yearly in the Exchequer, at the feast of St, Mi-
chael, the Archangel, three barbed arrows, for all scr*
vices. Dated at Reding, &c."
The extent of this liberty includes all the buildings
between the south side of the Strand and theThameSf
from Temple-bar to the east side of Cecil-street, On
the north side of the Strand, it reaches from Temple-*
bar. to where, the May-pole stood; that is, near the
west end of the church of St. Mary-le-Strand, and
returns from thence through Holy well-street, includ-
ing all Butcher-row, which has been lately pulled
down, to Temple-bar. Beyond the May- pole, the
liberty begins again in Catharine-street, at the Foun-
tain-tavern, and reaches from thence into the Stranii^
as far as Exeter change ; then turning up Burleigh-
voL» iir* Nnn street,
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♦58 . HISTORY AStS SURVEY OF
Street, it runs to within four houses of Exeter-stceet,
whence it passes through the buildings to the Foun-
tain-tavern.
Anciently this spot was occupied by the palaces
of the chief nobiHty, the names of which are still
preserved in the streets, &c. built on the sites of
these mansions, and 4he gardens belonging to them.
Hence we find here, Ejssex-street, DevereuxHWirt,
Arundel-street, Norfolk-street, Howard-street, Sur-
rfey-street, Burleigii-slreet, Exeter-street, Craven-
buildings, Drury-lane, and several other names of
titles, or families of distinction.
At a small distance from Temple-bar, on the noitb
eride of the Strand, is situated the parish-church of
St. Clement Danes.
The first part of this name is derived from its de-
dication to St. Clement, a disciple of St. Peter, the
Apostle^ but the latter part has beea always an ob-
ject of conjecture. Baker says, it derived tiiiis name
from having been the placeof re-interment of Harold,
whose brother, Hardicanute, had caused his body to
be due up and thrown into the Thames, where it was
ftmnd by a fisherman, who " buried it in the church-
yard of St. Clement, without Temple-bar; Me» called
the Church of the Danes.^* WiHiam of Malmesbury
lUentions la church here, before the arrival of the
Danes, which, he says, they burnt, together with
the monks and abbot, and that they continued their
flavage and sacrilegious fury throughout the land.
He men gofes on, ** Desirous, at length, to return to
Denmark, they were about to embark, when they
/Were, by the just judgment of God, all slain at Lon.
don, in a place which has since been called the
Church of the Danes." 1'here is also another reason
given for the denomination of this church, namely,
that when most of the Danes were driven out of this
kingdom, thoso few that remained, being married to
• . English
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. LOKDOK AND ITS ENVIRONS- 4t^0
English women, were obliged to live between the
Isle of Tborney (Westminster), and Caer Lud (Lud-
gate), where they built a synagogue, which was o/^
ierwards consecrated, and called, ^^ Ecdesia Cte«
mentis Danorum." This is the account given by
Fleetwood, the antiquary. Recorder of London, to
the Lord-treasurer, Burghley, who resided in this
parish.
The old church was taken down in 1680, and the
present structure erected in 1682, under the direc-
tion of Sir Christopher Wren; but the steeple was '
not added to it for some years.
It is a very handsome structure, built entirely of
stone. The body of it is enlightened by two series
of windows; the luwer plain, btit the upper well or-
namented ; and the terminition is by an attic^ whose
pilasters are crowned with vases. The entrance, on
the south side, is by a portico, to which there is an
ascent of a few steps ; the portico is covered with a
dome, supported by Ionic columns. On each side
the base of the steeple, in the west front, is a small
square tower, with its dome. The steeple is carried
to a great height in several stages; where it begins
to diminish, the Ionic order takes place, and its en-
tablature supports vases. The next stage is of the
Corinthian order, and above that stands the Compo*
site, supporting a don^e, which is crowned with a
snaaller one, from whence rises the ball and its vane.
This church is a rectory, the patronage of which
was anciently in the Knights Templars; but, after
passing through several hands, it at length came to
the Earls of Exeter, in whdm it still remains. The
length of this church is ninety-six feet, its breadth
sixty-three, and its height, to the roof, forty-eight
feet; and the altitude of the steeple is abo^t one
hundred and forty feet. ,
At
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460 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
At the dissolution of the order of Knights Tcin-
plars, the advowson of this church, together with
certain lands, and fiv^ messuage in this parish, were
conferred upon the prior and canons regular of the
church of the Holy Sepulchre; which lands and
messuages were probably that part of the Temple,
called the Outer; for, in the year 1:394, the prior and
canons liaving disposed of them to Walter, Bish6p
Of Exeter, he erected a stately edifice upon that site,
as a city mansion for himself and his successors,
which he denominated Exeter House. This build-
ing being alienated some time after, it came to the
noble families of Paget and Leicester, and, at last, to
that of Essex. Now, that this building was within
the bounds of the Temple, is evident from the ac-
count given by Stow, pf Ihe extent of that establish-
ment. He says, " It contained all that space of
ground, from the White friars, eastward, unto Essex
Houscj, without Temple-bar; yea, and a part of that
too. As appears by the first grant thereof to Sir Will.
Paget, Knt. Secretary of State to Henry VI II. Pat. 2.
Edw. VI.''
It was from this house that the Earl of E^ex, the
imprudent favourite of Elizabeth, made a desperate
«aliy,'in hopes of exciting the city to arm against their
sovereign ; which proving ineffectual, he was com-
pelled to return, 'and, after sustaining a short
siege, during which a piece of artillerj^ was placed
on the tower of St. Clement's church, to batter
his strong hold, he surrendered, and being uken
to the Tower, was shortly after tried and exe-
cuted. '
Behind St. dementis church, on the north side of
Wych street, is an inn of chancery, belonging to the
Inner Temple, and called, from its situation, Cle*
pient's-inn.
The
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LONDOI* ANP ITS ENVIRONS. *6i
The antiquity of this inn cannot be ascertained^
but it is mentioned in a book of entries, dated 'in
the 19th of Edward IV. Could Shakespeare's au-
thority on the subject of dates be relied on, it must
have been much older than this; for in the second
part of his historical play of ilenry IV. he makes
one of his justices a member of that society. " He
must to the inns of court I was of Clement's once
myself, where they will talk of mad Shallow still.*'
In the 2nd of Henry VII. Sir John Cantlow demised
this inn to John and William Elyot, probably in trust
for the students; and in 1538, it descended to Sir
William Holies, then lord mayor, and froM him to the
Earl of Clare, in who^e heirs it still continues.
There is a tradition, that an ann for the reception
of pilgrims and penitents, who came to St. Clement's
Well, anciently stood upon this spot, and that a reli-
gious house was, in process of time, established, to
which the foundation of the church is attributed.
Whatever may have been the reputed sanctity or
virtue of the waters of this well, it is recorded by
Fitzstepben as being a place of great resort in his
tinie. He says, " There are, near London, on the
north side, special wells in the suburbs^ sweet,
wholesome, and clear; among which, Eloly-well,
Clerk's-well, and Clement's-well, are most famous,
and frequented by scholars and youths of the city,
in summer evenings, when they walk forth to take
the air." This well, which is still in use, is situated
in Clement's-Iane, and has a pump erected over*it; '
but its medicinal fame, in the cure of cutaneous dis«
eases, is lost.
Adjoining to Clement's-inn, on the west, is ano-
ther inn of chancery, called the New-inn. It was
founded about the year 1 485, for the reception of the
students of an ancient inn, formerly situated at the
south'-east corner of Seaco?iHane, in Fleet-l^ne,
where
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46s HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
where part of the stonewalls are still remaining.
This inn is an appendage to the Middle Temple.
When the Strand-inn was destroyed by the Protector
Somerset, the students removed hither.
Opposite to the New-inn, on the south side of
Wych-street, is LionVinn, which is also a house of
chancery, belonging to the Inner Temple. It was
anciently a common inn, having the sign of the
Lion, and is said to have been in th6 possession of
the students and practitioners .of the law, ever since
the year 14S0.
At the north-east corner of Clement's-inn, is a
passage which leads into Clare-market.
' This market receives its name from John, Earl of
Clare, by whom it was built and opened, in the year
1 656. It contains two market-houses, and is as well
supplied with all sorts of provisions, as most mar-
kets in or near London.
Before proceeding westward in the survey, we
must notice the commencement of the extensive plan
for the improvement of this entrance into the city of
London, submitted to thecourt of common-council, by
a committee appointed for that purpose, in December,
1793, by taking down the whole of Butcher-row, and
throwing the fronts of the new houses back in a line
with the north side of Wychstreet. This new range
of buildings has been called Pickett-stieet,iD honour
of the projector of this improvement; to complete
which, according to his design, and the recom-
mendation of /the committee, the houses on the
south side of the Strand, from Tlianet-place to Mil-
tbrd-lane, must be taken down, and a street fifty feet
wide, be formed on the south side of St. Clement s
churchy
Westward from Essex House stood the Bishop
of Bath's inn, which in the reign of Edward' VI.
was severed from the bishoprick a(id granted to
Lord
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tONTDON AKD ITS E^yVlRONS 463
Lord Thomas Seymour, high adn^iral, wheo it re-
ceived the name of Seymour place. It came afters-
wards into the possession of Thomas Howard, EsltI
of AVundel, who, on the attainture of the high admi-
ral, purchased it of Edward VL with several other
messuages in the parish for forty one pounds six shiU
lings and eight pence, when its appellation was
changed to that of Arundel-house. Though this build-
ding covered great extent of ground, it appears from
Thane's views of it to have been low and mean.
When it was pulled down and the four streets bear-
ing the family name and titles, were erected on its
site, there was a design to build a mansion house for
the family out of the accumulated rents, on thut part ,
of the gardens next to the river, and an act of par-
liament was obtained for that purpose, but the plan
was never executed.
At the west end of Wych Street, and the south
end of Drury-lane stood the ancient mansion of the
noble families of Drury and Craven, and abo that of
the Queen of Bohemia, the unfortunate daughter of
James I. The remains of the latter have been lately
taken down to make way for a new Equestrian
Theatre, under the direction of Mr. Astley.
Drury-house was built, according to Pennant, by
Sir William Drury, a most able commander in the
Irish wars, who unfortunately fell in a duel with Sir
John Boroughs, in a foolish quarrel about prece-
dency. During the time of the fatal discontents of
the favourite l&ex, it was the place where his im-
prudent advisers resolved on such counseb as termi-
nated in the destruction of him and his adherents.
This house afterwards came into possession of the
heroic William, Lord Craven, who, in 1673, was
created Earl Craven. Part of it i^ now a public
house, and on the site of another part is erected a
TOUFt called Craven Buildings, at the upper end of
which
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464 HISTORY AXP SURVEY OK *
which is a portrait of this hero in armour, with a
truncheon in his hand, mounted on a white hprse.
On each side is an earl's and a baron's coronet, iCbd
the initials W. C. It was supposed that this illustrious
nobleman aspired to the hand of his royal neighbour,
whose battles he had fought^ and that he succeeded
and married her privately. This conjecture was not
a little strengthened some years ago, when on digging
in the stable yard behind both houses, a subterranean
passage was discovered communicating between
them.
Opposite to the end of Little Drury lane is situated
the parish church of St. Mary-le-strand, commonly
called the New Church in the Strand.
The original church belonging to this {parish is
mentioned so early as the year 1222, when it was
named St. Mary and the Innocents of the Strand;
but how long it stood before that time is uncertain.
It was then situated on the south side of the Strand
nearly opposite the present edifice, but was taken
down in 1549, by order of Edward Sejmour, Duke
of Somerset ; which depriving the parishioners of a
place of worship, they joined themselves to the
church of St. Clement Dunes, and afterwards to that
of St. John Baptist in the Savoy, where they conti*
nued till the year 1723. At length the act having
passed for erecting the fifty new churches witliinthe
bills of mortality, one was appointed for this parish,
and the firststone laid on the 2Jth of February, 1714.
It was finished in three years and a half, though it
was not consecrated till the first of January, 1723,
when, instead of its ancient name, it was called St.
Mary-le-Strand. It was the first built of the fifty
new churches.
This is a very superb, though not a very exten-
sive edifice: it is massy, without the appearance of
being heavy, and formed to stand. for ages. At the
3 entrance
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•ntraQce oo the w^t end 19 ao asoeQt by a flight ef
steps cut in the sweep of a circle. These lead to s,
circular portico of Ionic columns covered with 1^
doaiC) which is crowned with m elegant vase. The
columns are continued along the body of the churchi
with pilasters of the same order at the coFners, and
in the intercoluminations a^^ niches handsomely or-
namented. Over the dome is a pediment supported
by Corinthian columns, which are also continued
round the body of the structure, over those of the
Ionic order beneath ; between which are the windows
placed over the niches. These columns are sup-
ported on pedestals, and have pilasters behind with
arches sprung from them^ and the windows have an-^
gular and circular pediments alternately, A hand-
some balustrade is carried round the top, and its sum*
mit is adorned with vases. . The steeple is lig^t
though soUd, and ornamented with Composite co-^
luorns and capitals. The whole building is sur^
rounded by a dwarf stone wall, ornamented witk
very stroog and handsome iron mils.
Thia church is a rectory, the patronage of which is
if) the Bishop of Winchester. The value of the living
is two hundred and twenty five pounds per annum,
besides surplice fees ; of which sum one hundred
pounds was settled by act of parliament, and e»e
hundred and twenty five pounds is raised by a
pound-rate upon the inhabitants in lieu of tythes.
On the site of this churchy until its erection, stQo4
a maypole, which on May morning, as well as on
other days of festivity, was decorated with streamers
and garlands of flowers, and much resorted to by
the maidens and youths of London and Westminster:
when taken down it was found to be one hundred
feet in length. It was obtained by Sir Isaac Newton
and conveyed to Wanstead Park in Essex, at that
TOL. HI- 000 time
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466 MistoRir AKD fiTTRvnr or
time the seat of Sir Richard Child, afterwards Ijord
Castlemain, where, under the direction of the Rev,
Mr. Pound, it was placed for the erection of a teles-
cope one hundred and twenty five feet long, the
largest then in the world, which was given to the
Royal Society, by Mons. Hugon, one of its members.
Pope has immortalized this maypole in the following
lines :
** Amidst the area wide they took their stand.
Where the tall Maypole once o^erlook'd the Strand:
But now., so Anne and piety ordain ;
A church collects the saints of Drury-Iane.
Opposite to this church is Somerset House, which
was originally built, about the year 1549, by the
Duke of Somerset, uncle to Edward VI. and protec-
tor of England, who demolished the palaces of the
Bishopsof Chester and Worcester, and an innof chan-
cery called Strand Inn, with the church of St. Mary
le Strand that stood there ; and building this palace
with the materials obtained from the church of St.
John of Jerusalem with its tower, and the cloisters
on the north side of St. Paul's church, together with
the chapel and charnel-house, all of which he caused
to be destroyed for this purpose, it, from him, obtained
the name of Somerset House. But the duke being
soon after attainted, it fell to the crown« In this pa-
lace Anne of Denmark, Queen to King James L
kept her court, whence it was called Denmark-house
during that reign j-* but it soon after recovered the
name of the founder. It was afterwards the resi-
dence of Queen Catharine, dowager of King Charles
il, and, by an adt passed in the second year of the
leign of his majesty King George ,111. it was settled
tipon the present queen for life; but has since been
lexchanlged for Buckingham House. *
This
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tfX>NDON AND ITd SNVIRONS. 467
Hiis palace consisted of several courts, and h^d a
^rden behind it situated on the bank of the Thames.
The front next the Strand was adorned with columns
and other decorations, and in the center was a hand*
some gate that opened into a quadrangle. On the
south side of this quadrangle was a piazza before the.
great hall or guard room : beyond which were other
courts that lay on a descent towards the garden.
The back front next the Thames was added to it by
King Charles 11. and was a magnificent structure of
free-stone, with a noble piazza built by Inigo Jones.
In this new building were the royal apartments,
which conmianded a beautiful prospect of the river
and the adjacent country. The garden was oma*
mented with statues, shady walks, and a bowling-
green : but as none of the royal family had resid^
there after Queen Catharine, dowager of Charles IL
several of the officers belonging to the court were
penBJtted to lodge in it ; and a great part of. it was
for some time used as barracks for soldiers.
In Somerset-yard, on the west side of th^ palace,
were coach-houses, stables, and a guard-room for
the use of the soldiers on duty ; the gateway to which-
fronted Catharine-street. These coach-houses were
afterguards used as barracks for soldiers.
The propriety of erecting the public offices, neces-
sarily connected with each other, on the same spot'
badloQg been perceived by the government, when,
in 1774, the conveniency of this old building, which
already belonged to the crown, pointed it out as the
most eJigible situation for the purpose. An act of
parliament was ther^ore obtained for embanking the
river Thames, before Somerset House, and for build-
ing on the ground thereof various public offices
which were specified, together witli such others as
His Majesty shouU think proper.
This
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46% HlfitOEY AND SURYET OF
This noble and m^nifioent edifice, which is
erected after a design of Sir William ChamberB, oc-*
cupiea a space <tf five hniidred' feet in depths smd
nearly eight hundred in width ; and is distributed
into a large quadrMgular court, three bundled and
forty feet long, and two hundred and tad wide,
with a street on each side, extending parallel with
the court, four hundred feet in length, and sixty in
lireadth, to a spacious terrace, fifty feet in ^idtn, on
the banks of the Thames, raised fifty feet above the
bed of the river, and occupying the whole length of
the building. The streets on the sides aie not, how-
ever, yet completed.
The Strand firont of the building is composed of a
rustic basement, suppcxrting Corinthian columns,
crowtied in the center with an attic, and at the ex*
tuemities with a balustrade.
The basement consists of nine large arches, the
three middle ones open, and forming the entrance to
the quadrangle ; and the three at eaoi end, filled wilb
windows of the Doric order, adorned witii pilasters,
entablatures, and pediments. The key^-stones of the
arches are finely carved in alto relievo, with nine co-
lossal masks, representing Ocean, and the eight chief
rivers of Great Britain, viz. Thames, Humber, Mer-
sey, and Dee, on the right side of Ocean, which is
in the center, and, on the left side, Medway, Tweed,
Tyne, and Severn, all decorated with suitable em-
blems.
The G>rinthian order, above the basement, con-
sists of ten columns on pedestals, with regular enta-
blatures, correctly executed, and in the most ap-
proved atyle of antiquity. Two floors arc compie-
hended in this order, a princifpal and a mezzsnine;
the windows of the latter being only surrounded with
architraves, while those of the pn*«(icipal floor have a
ballustnide
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^ LONDON AND ITS £NVIBONS. 469
faailuBtnde before Ihem, and are ornamented with
JoQic pilasters, entablatures, and pediments. ' The
three central windows have likewise large tablets^
<:overi«g psrt of tiie atchitrave and frieze ; on which
are tepresented, in basso relievo, medallions of the
•King, Queen, md Prince of Wales^ supported by
lioos, and^adimied respectively with garlands of lau«
rel, of myrde, and of oak.
The attic, which extends over three interoolunuii«-
ations, and distinguishes the center of the front, is
divid^ into three parts by four colossal statues,
placed over the columns of the order ; the center di*
vision being ^reserved for an inscription, and the two
side ones having oval windows, adorned with festoons
erf* oak and laurel. Tlie four statues represent ve-
tienii>le oien in senatorial habits, each weaning the
cap of liberty. In one hand they have a fasces, coia^
pcAed of reeds firmly bound together, emblematic of
strength derived from unanimity ; while the other
sustains, respectively, the scales, the mirror; the
sword, and the bridle, symbols of Jurtice^ Tradi^
Valour^ and Moderation. The whole terminates
with a group, consisting d( the arms of the British
empire, supported on one side by the Genius of
England, and on the other, by Fame sounding her
trumps.
The length of this front, is one hundred and thirty*
five feet*
♦ The three open arches, already mentioned, form
the only entrance. They open to a spacious vesti-
bule, uniftm^ the strecft with the back front, and serv-
ing as the general access to the whole edifice; *but
more particularly to the Royal Academy, and to the
Royal and Antiquarian Societies ; the entrances to
all which am un^er cover.
This vestibule is decorated with columns of the
Doric order, whose entablatures support the vaults,
1 which
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470 flISl'ORY AKD SU&VEY OV
^hich are ornamented with wdl-chosen antiques ;
among which the cyphers of their Majesties and the
Prince of Wales, are judiciously intermixed*
Over the central doors, in this vestibule, are two
busts, executed in Portland-stone, by Mr. Wilton :
that on the Academy-aide represents Michael Angeio
JSociarotti, the first of artists ; that on the side of the
learned Societies, Sir Isaac Newton, the first of phi«
losophers.
The back firont of this part of the building, which
feces the quadrangle, is considerably wider than that
towards the Strand, being nettr two hundred feet in
extent ; and is composed of a corps de logis^ with
two projecting wings. The style of decoration is,
however, nearly the same, the principal variations
being in the forms of the doors and windows, and in
the use of pilasters instead of columns, except in the
front of the wings, each of which has four columns,
supporting an ornament composed of two sphinxes,
with an antique altar between them, agreeably intro-
duced to screen the chimnies from view.
The Aiasks on the key-stones of the arches are
intended to represent lares^ or the tutelar deities of
the place.
The attic is ornamented with statues of the four
quarters of the globe. America appears armed, as
breathing defiance: the other three are loaded with
tributary fruits and treasure. Like the Strand front,
the termination of the attic, on this side, is formed
by the British arms, surrounded with sedges and sea-
weedii, and supported by marine gods, ajrmed with
tridents, and holding a festoon of nets filled with fish
and other marine productions.
The oth^r three sides of tlie quadrangle are formed
by massy buildings of rustic worif, corresponding
with the interior of the principal front. The center
of the south sid^ is ornamented with an arcade of
four
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LOKDON A»D ITS ENVIROKS. 47l
four Corinthian columns, having' two pilasters on
each side, within which the windows of the front
are thrown a little back. On these columns rests a
triangular pediment, in the tympanum of which is a
basso relievo, representing the arms of the navy of
Great Britain, supported by a sea nymph, riding on
dea-horses, guided by tritons blowing conchs. On
the corners of the pediment are military trophies, and
the whole is terminated by elegant vases, placed
above the columns.
The east and west fronts are nearly similar, but
less heavily ornamented. Jn the center of each of
these fronts is a small clock tower, and in that of the
south front a dome,
. All round the quadrangle is a story sunk below
the ground; in which are many of the offices sub-
ordinate to the principal ones in the basenient and
upper stories. .
Directly in the front of the entrance is a bronze
cast of the Thames, by Bacon, laying at the foot of
a pedestal, on which is placed an elegant statue of
his present maj^esty, also in bronze.
The front next the Thanaes corresponds with the
south front of the quadrangle, and is ornamented in
the same manner. Before it is a spacious terrace,
supported by arches, resting on the artiHcial embank-
ment of the Thames. These arches are of massy
rustic work; and the center one, or water-gate, is
ornamented with a colossal mask of the Thames, in
alto relievo. There are eleven arches on each side
of the center one, the eighth of which, on both sides^
is considerably more lofty than the othere, and serves
as a landing-place to the warehouses, under the ter-
race. Above these landing-places, upon the balus*
trade which runs along the terrace, are figures
of lions couchant, larger than life, and finely exe-
cuted»
The
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471^ ' UISIOaY AKO StJItVEY OF
The principal offices held in Someis^^house, are
those of the Privy Seal and Sigset, the Navy, Navy
Fay, Victualling, and Sick and Wounded Seaineiis' ;
the Stamp, Tax, and Lottery ; the Hackney-coachs
and Hawkers and Pedlars^; the Suhreyor General of
Crown Lands; the Ducbiea of Cornwall and l^ao-
caster; the Auditors of Imprests; the pipe, the
Comptroller of the Pipe, and the Treasurer's Remem-*
brancer: and when the streets on the two sides are
finished, there will be dwelling-hou^s for the trea*
surer, paymaster, and six commissioners of the pavy;
three commissioners of the Victualling-office, and
,their secretary ; a commissioner of stamps, and one
of sick and wounded; several of whom already reside
here. There are also commodious apartments in
each office, for a secretary or some Confidential
officer, and for a porter.
The Strand front of this noble edifice is appropri*
ated, by royal munificence, to the use of the Hoyal
Academy, the Royal Society, ^md the Royal Anti<>
quarian Society.
Farther west, between the Strand and the Thames,
is situated an ancient palace, called the Savoy.
This place obtained its name from Peter, Earl of
Savoy aad Richmond, who built it aboijit the year
1$4J, and afterwards transferred it 'to the Friars of
Moutjoy ; of whom Queen Eleanor, the wife of King
Henry III. pui;chased it for her son, Henry, Duk^
of Lancaster. The duke, in 1 338, enlarged and beau*
(ified it, at the expense of fifi^*two thousand marks;
and so superb was it, at that time, as to exceed, in
magnificence, every other structure in the kingdom.
In this palace John, King of France, resided, when
a prisoner in England, in tne year 1357) as also on
bis return thither, in the year 1363.
In 1381, this stately palace, with all its furniture,
was destroyed by the Kentish rebels ; but the ground
devolving
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LOKDOiv J^itb Vis Etmibdks. 4M
lieVolTing to the crown, Heniy VII. be^n to reT)mlcf
it in the manner it now appears, as an hoepitd, for
the reception of o6e hundred distressed oll^jects. He
says, in his will, he intended, by this foundation,
• to doo ami execute Vl out of the VII works of
pitie and mercy, by means 6f keping, susteynyhff>
and mayntenyng of common hospitallis; wherein, if
thei be duly kept, the said nede pouer people bee
bdged, viseted m their sicknesses, refreshed with
mete and drinke, mid, if nede be, with clothe, and
also buried, yf thei fourtune to die within the same ;
for lack of theim, infinite nombre of pouer nede peo-
ple miserably daillie die, no man putting hande t)F
belpe or remedie.'* That prince, however, not living
to see it c^ompleted, his son, Henry Vlll. in the year
151 1, not only granted his manor of the Savoy to
the Bishop of Winchester, and others, executors of
his father's will, towards finishing the hospital, but
by his charter, dated July 5, 1513, constituted them
a body politic and corporate, to consist of a master,
five secular chaplains, and four regulars, in honout
of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. John Bap-
tist ; and at the same time directed, that the founda-
tio n should be called, " The Hospital of King Henry
VIl. late King of £ngland, of the Savoy."
This hospital was suppressed in the reign of Ed-
ward VL when the revenues amounted to five hun*
dred ^nd twenty-nine pounds fifteen shillings and
seven pence per annum; which, with all its furni-
ture, that prince gave to the citizens of London, to-
wards the new foundations of Bridewell and St Tho^
mas's Hospitals.
Upon the demise of Edward, his sister Mary
re-founded this hospital, and endowed it anew;
when her ladies and maids of honour completely
furnished it with all necessaries, at their own ex-
vot. HI. ^PP pense^
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474 HISTO&T AMD SURVEY O^
pense; but it was agaio suppressed on the accession
of Elizabeth to the crown.
At present, the Savoy is the property of the
crown ; an act of resumption having passed in the
4Ui and 5th of William and Mary. The wails of
the old building, which was in the form of a cross,
Are almost entire. Part of it is used as habitations
and warehouses for private people, and part as a
prison for deserters from the army, and oth^r mili-
tary offenders. Here is also the ancient chapel be-
longing to the hospital, which was originally dedi-
cated to St,« John the }3aptist ; but when the old
church of St. Mary-le-Strand was destroyed by the
Protect6r Somerset, the inhabitants of that parish
united themselves to those of the precinct of the
Savoy ; and this chapel being consequently us^d as
their parish church, it acquired the name of St. Mary-
le-Sayoy.
This structure being built of squared stone and
boulder, in the Gothic style, has an aspect of great
antiquity. Contrary to the general construction of
^ireligious edifices, its greatest length is nortii and
south, and the altar is placed at the north end. The
roof is remarkably fine, being adorned with carved
figures of the Holy Lamb, shields of arms, and other
decorations, within elegant circular compartments.
It was completely repaired in. the year 1721, at the
expense of His Majesty King George L who also
inclosed the burial-ground with a wall ; and it has
been, repaired and beautified within a few years.
There are many ancient monuments in this chapel^
some of which are very magnificent.
, This precinct is extra-parochial, and the right of
presentation to the chapel is in the lord high^
treasurer^ or the commissioners &>r executing that
difice. . .
Nearly
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LONDON AND ITS ENy IRONS. 4T*
Nearly opposite to the Savoy is Exeter Exchange,
which was originally a handsonnie building, with aa
arcade in front, and a gallery above, with shops iu
both; but the plan failing, the arcades were filled
up, and it now contains two rows of dark shops, witft
a paved passage between them. The gallery is prin-
cipally used as lodgings for the shopkeepers; and at
the east end is an exhibition of living subjects of na-
tural history. This place takes its name from hav-
ing been built upon the site of the mansion4iouse of
the Earls of Exeter, a part of which still remains.
On this spot formerly stood the parsonage house of'
the parish of St. Martin ; but Sir Thomas Palmer, a
creature of the Protector Somerset, emulating th^
infamous example of his patron, obtained it by conii-
position, and began to erect a stately mansion of
brick and timber. This afterwards came into the
hands of the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, who finished
it in a very magnificent manner, and adorned it with
four square turrets. He di^^d here, in 1598; after,
which it descended to his son, and took the name of
Exeter House from his title.
A little farther to the west, an the south side of
the Straqd, Js Beaufort-buildings, where formerly
stood the mansion-house of the Earls of Worcester.
Speaking of this place. Pennant says, *' The Earls of
Worcester hac^ a very large house, between Durham-
place and the Savoy, with gardens to the water-side.
The great Earl of Clarendon lived in it before his
own was built,. and paid for it the extravagant rent
of five hundred pounds a year. This was pulled
down by their descendant, the Duke of Beaufort ;
and the present Beaufort-buildings rose on its site*
This had originally been the iown-house of the Bi-
shops of Carlisle/*
CHAP- XXXVIII.
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i76 HISTORV AND SUftVE^ Of
CHAP. XXXVIII,
$Mlislury Houser^Durham Bouse. — AdelpkL — Iffw JEr*
change. — York Bnildings. — Hungerjard Market. — Si.
'Martin in the Fields — Northumberland House. — Cha^
ring Cross. The Meu/s^ — Castle-sireet lAbrarv and
School. — Admiralty Office, — Scotland-vard.^^- Ivhiie^
hall. — Horse Ouardit. — Tilt-yard. — Treasury. St^
Jameses Palace.— St. James's Park.— The Queen's Pa-
lace.— Green Park. — Marlborough House.^-^Carlion
; House.r^ Opera House. — Little Theatre. — Leicesfer
Square^
. Quitting the Liberty of the Duchy of Lancaster,
%t Cecil-street, we enter the parish of St. Martin, in
the Fields, which, in ancient times, included the
whole of the Liberty of Westminster; the parishes of
St. James, St,. George, St. Anne, and St. Paul, Co-
vent-garden, having been taken out of it at different
times.
Cecil-street and Salisbury-street, are built upon the
«iteofGreatSalisburyHouse,adjoiningtowhich,onthe
west, wasIHirham Hp\ise,built, according toStow,by
Thomas Hatfield, who was made Bishop of purham
in the year 1345, and continued bishop thirty-six
yeafs : but Pennant says it was built originally by
Anthony de Beck, Patriarch of Jerusalem, and Bi-
shop of Durham, in the reign of Edward L and de-
signed by him for the town residence of h\\a and his
^successors; and that it was rebuilt by Hatfield, in
\3Sl. In the 26th of Henry VHL Bishop Tonstal
conveyed this house to the king, and received in
exchange, Coldharborough, and other bouses in
lx)udon. About the second year of bis reign, Edward
YI. gave Durham Hoiise to bis siste? Elizabeth, for
ftfej
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LOKDa9 AND VtS E1IVU0N6. 47T
life ; Quieen Mary, however. Festered it to the see, by
granting the ce version to the, bishop; aod) upon the
denth of Klizabetb, Toby Mathew, the then bishop,
afterwards Archbishop of York, entered into posses-
sion of it, under the authority of an opinion of the
judges, against the claim of Sir Walter Raleigh, to
whose use it was granted by Queen Elizabeth.
While this mansion belonged to the crown, the
Mint was established in it, under the management
of Sir William SharringtOn, and the influence of
Thomas Seymour, Lord Admiral, who proposed to
coin money enough here to accomplish his designs
on the throne; but his.practices being detected, be
sufiered death, It afterwards became the residence
of John Dudley, Earl of Northumberland, who, ii|
May, I663i caused three marriages tobe solemnised
ID this palace, viz. his son. Lord Guildford Dudley,
with Lady Jane Grey ; Lord Herbert, heir to the
Earl of Pembroke, with Catharine, younger sister of
Lady Jane ;^ and Lord Jlastings, heir to the Earl of
Huntingdon, with his youngest daughter. Lady Ca-
tharine D-udley, From hence he forced the reluctant
victim, his daughter*io-law, to the Tower, there to
be invested with the regal diguity; and, in eight
months, his ambition led her to the nuptial bed, -the
throne, and the scaffold.
In 1640, it. was purchased of the see, by the Earl
of Pembroke,. who pulletl it down, and converted it
into a range of buildings and wharfs, which were
called by the general name .of Durham-yard.
These buildings having become very ruinous, three
brothers, of the name of Adam, purchased the ground,
and covered it with a magnificent mass of buildii^s,
which, in honour of their fraternal partnership, was
ealled the Adelphi, the Greek woi?d for Brothers. \\\
. the year 1773, the wh6le was disposed of by lottery,
th^ sh^es in which 9old for fift^ poun(|s each.
The
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47S HISTOllT AND SURVEY OF
The great descent to the river, that ran down Dur*
ham-yard, is entirely removed, by these buildings
being raised on strong ^lofty arches. Fronting the
Thames is a most beautiful row of houses, before
which is a spacious terrace, secured by veiy
handsome iron rails. From this terrace is a very
pleasing view of Blackfriars and Westminster bridges,
with the vast expanse of water between them. At
the east end of the terrace is a street, which commu-
nicates with the Strand. Another street extends
between the river and the Strand, parallel to the
terrace, and leads into York*buildings. In this street
is a very handsome edifice, used by the Society for
the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and
Commerce. At the western extremity of this street
is another, that leads to the west end of the terrace.
The end and central houses of the terrace are parti-
cularly handsome, and are distinguished by being
ornamented with pilasters and cornices of artificial
itone.
The vaults under the houses are very extensive,
and are converted into ranges of warehouses, coach-
houses, and stables, with proper subteiraneous com-
munications between, enlightened by wells, in the
back yards of the houses above. From the old en-
trance to Durham-yard is a wide passage for car-
riages, under the houses, down to these warehouses,
^nd tt) a spacious wharf below the terrace; and there
is another entrance that opens to the street, on the
side next York-buildings. The summits of the arches,
fronting the river, are adapted as counting-houses for
the warehouses below, or as kitchens to the houses
^bove.
Between Durbaiq House and the Strand, was the
old stabling belonging to the mansion, which being*
a great evesore in so conspicuous a situation, Robert
}|j4)rl of o^^lisbury, Lord High Treasurer to James I,
purchased
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LOUDON AND ITS ENVIftOXS. 479
purchased them, and, under the audioes of his royal
master, iu the year 1 608, erected a magnificent stone
building, upon the site of them, nearly on a similar
plan to that of the Koyai Exchange ; there being an
open paved walk, with rows of shops below and
above, and cellars beneath. When this building was
finished, the king, attended by the royal family, and
many lords and ladies of his court, honoured its open*
ing with their presence, and bestowed on it the name
of Britain's Burse, which was afterwards changed
to that of the New Exchange. This building -was
taken down in the year 1737, and a handsome and
uniform row of houses erected in its stead, which
form a part of the street.
Westward from the Adelphi-buildings, are several
streets, which are included under the denomination
of York-buildings, from having been built upon the
site of the town mansion of the Archbishops of York^
This had originally belonged to the Bishops of
Korwich, but about the year 1556, Nicholas Heath,
Archbishop of York, purchased it tor the use of
himself and his successors, in consequence of White*
hall, their ancient palace, having been sold by Cardi-
nal Woisey to Henry VIII. Mathew Toby, who had
before exchanged Durham House with the crovvn,
also exchanged this, and received several manors in
lieu of it After this, it was granted to Villiers
Duke of Buckingham) whose son George ^disposed
of it to builders, who converted it into streets and
alleys, in which his name and title are 43tili pre^
served; they being called OeorgQ-street, Villiers-
street, Duke-street, Of-alley, and Buckingham-^
street.
At the bottom of these streets, next the river, is
a very elegant stone gate to the stairs. The (iesign
of this gate is greatly admired, and is eveiy way
worthy of itj^ architect, Ipigo Jones. It is of the
Tuscaut
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-480 HaSTORV AKO SC&VEY 01^
Tuscan Girder, and orftamented with rustic work»
Tbe stairs have fallen mto dimse within the last
twenty ye»i», from the causeway to them having
been so long neglected, as to- render the apfKoach of
boats altnost i«if>ossible, except at high water.
Near these stairs is a high wooden tower, caited
York-buitdiilgs Water Works, er-ected for raising
water for the supply of that neighbourhood. The
eofapany to whom it betoms, were incorporated by
act of partian»ent in the year 1691<^
Farther west is Hungerford-inarket,'8itoated be-
tfween the Strand and the Thames. In this place
was anciently a large house and gaiklen belonging to
the Hungerfords of Fairleigh in Wiltshire, tn the
i^eign of Charles 11. Sir Edward pulled down the
family laansion, and converted it into several build-
ings, and among them this market, which from i^
proximity to the Thames^ and the conveniency of
the stairs f )r gardeners to land their goods at, was
principally designed ibr 'a market for vegetables :
the plan, however, failed, and the mairket never
flonrished. Here is a good market-house, oa the
north side of which is a bust of one of the Hunger-
ford's, in a lai^e wig.
Nearly oppoute to Hungerford market, behind
the houses on the north sadte of the Strand, i9 the
parish chuik^h of St. Martin in the fields, which is so
Called from its dedication to St. Martin, an Hunga-
rian saint, and its original situation it) the fields.
The origin of this chtirch is buried in joblivion;
it must, however, be ofgneat antiquity, for there are
authentic records of a dispute in 1923, between the
Abbot of Westminster and the Bishop of London >
' concerning the exemptrofi of the church of St.
Martin in the fields, from the jurisdiction of. the
Bishop of London. How long before this -.a build-
ing for the service of religion was erected here, is not
3 ' easy
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LOHDOK AND ITS ENVIRONS. 481'
oasy to determine; but it was probably a chapel for
the monks of Westminster, when they visited thrii
convent garden, which then extended to it. How-
ever, the endowments of this church ftU with the
monks who possessed it, and in Henry the VlHth's
reign a small church was built there, at the king^s
expense ; but this structure not being capacious
enough to accommodate the parishioners, it was
greatly enlarged in 1607, by the addition of a spa-
cious chancel, which was erected at the expense of
Prince Henry and some of the nobility. At length,
after many expensive repairs, that building was
taken down in 1721, and soon after the first stone of
the present edifice was laid. Five years compleated
the work, and in 1796 it was consecrated.
On laying the first stone, his majesty King George
I. ^ave one hundred guineas, to be dismbuted among
the workmen ; and some tim^ after, he also gave
fifteen hundred pounds to purchase an organ. The
whole expense ot building and decorating this church,
amounted to sixty thousand eight hundred and ninety-
one pounds ten shillings and four pence ; of which,
thirty-three thousand four hundred and fifty pounds
were granted by parliament, and the rest raised by
voluntary subscriptions, added to the ^bove royal be-
nefaction.
The church of St. Martin in the Fields, is a very
elegant edifice, built with stone. In the west front
is an ascent, by a' long flight of steps, to a very
noble portico of Corinthian columns, that support a
pediment, in which are the royal arms, in bas relief.
The same order is continued round in pilasters, and
in the intercolumniations are two series of windows,
surrounded with rustic. The doors on the sides are
near the corners, and are ornamented with lofty
Corinthian columns: th^ roof is concealed by a
handsome balustrade, and the ^pire is stately and ele-
Yoj.. III. Q q ^ gant.
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481 HISTORY AJVP SURVEY OV
gant The decorations within are exceeding bean*
tiful; the roof is richly adorned with fret-work ;
slender Corinthian columns, raised on high pedes*
tab, rising in the front of the galleries, serve to sup-
port both them and the roof, which, on the sides^
rests upon them in a very ornamented arch-work.
Hie east end is richly adorned with fret-work and
' gilding, and over the- altar is a large window finely
painted.
With respect to this edifice, the author of the Cri-
tical Review remarks, that it would be a great ad-
vantage to the building, if the front was laid open to
the Mews. ** The portico,^^ says he, ** is at once
elegant and august; and if the steps, arising ftota
^he street to the front, could have been made regu-
lar^ and on a line from end to end, it would have
given it a very considerable grace; but as the situa-
tion of the ground would not allow it, this is to be
esteemed a misfortune rather than a fault. The
round columns at each angle of the church are w^ell
contrived, and have a very fine effect in the profile
of the building; the east end is remarkabi) elegant,
and very justly challenges a particular applause."
In the steeple of this church is a good ring of
bells, greatly admired for the harmony of their sound.
I'he church is a vicarage, the patronage of which is
in the gift of the Bishop of London.
This parish, which is supposed to have been origi-
nally taken out of that of St. Margaret, has so in-
creased both in houses and inhabitants, that it is/iow
one of the largest and most populous in the bills of
mortality ; and though the parishes of St. Paul, Co-
vent-garden, St Anne, St. James, and St. George,
Hanover-square, have been taken out of i the num-
ber of houses still exceeds five thousand.
At the south-west comer of the Strand, opposite
to the end of St. Martin Vlane^ stands Northumber-
land'.
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X.ONDOK AND Rfl ftKYIROKS. 483
land House^ which was erected on the site of thq^
hospital of St. Mary Rounceval, a cell to the priory*
of the same name, in Navarre, founded ancl<:adowed
by the Earl of Pembroke, in the reign of Henry III.
This hospital was suppressed, with other alien prio-
ries, by Henry V. but was re-founded, in 1476, by
Cdward IV. After the general suppression of reli-
gious houses, by Henry VIII. Edward VI. in the
year 1549, granted the chapel, with its appurte-
nances, to Sir Thomas Cawarden. After this, it
came into the possession of Henry Howard, Earl of
Northampton, who, in the reign of James I. erected
three sides of the quadrangle. After the death of
this nobleman, it became the property of his rela-
tion, the Earl of Suflfolk, and was then known by the
name of Suflfolk House.
In the reign of Charles I. Algernon, Earl of North-
umberland, Lord High Admiral of England, married
the daughter of the Earl of Suffolk, and, about the
year 164^2, became the proprietor of this house; from
which time it has borne its present name*
This earl, finding it inconvenient to reside in the
apartments built by Lord Northampton, on ac-
count of their nearness to the-street, completed the
quadrangle by building the fourth, or south side,
which is at such a distance from the street as to
avoid the noise of the carriages, &c. and enjoys all
the advantages of retirement. Thi ; part was built
under the direction of Inigo Jones, as the other three
sides hud been under that of Bernard Janssen. It
was in a conference held in one of these apartments,
between the Earl of Northumberland, General Monk,
and some of the leading men of the nation, that the
restoration of Charles H. was proposed, as a measure
absolutely necessary to the peace of the kingdom.
The front, next the street, was began to be rebuilt
by Algernon, Duke of Somerset, who became pos-
sessed
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484 HISTOAY AK© SURVEY OF
sessed of it in 1748, in right of his mother, the
daughter and heiress of the K^rl of Northumberland;
and from him it descended to his son-in-law, and
daughter, the late Duke and Duchess of Northum-
berland, by whom the new front was completed, and
such improvements' made, as have rendered this
building an object of admiration for its elegance and
grandeur.
The front of this building, next the street, is
exceeding magnificent. In the center of it is a
grand arched gate, the piers of which are continued
up to the top of the building, with niches on (»ch
side from the ground, decorated with carvings, in a
sort of Gothic style. They are connected at the top,
by uniting to form an arch in the center, opening
from the top of the house to a circular balcony,
standing on a small bow window over the gate be-
neath. Over the arch, on a pedestal, is a carved
lion, the crest of the Duke of North umberlatid^s
arms. The building, on each side thte center, is of
brick, containing two series of regular windows, five
on each side, over a like series of niches on the
ground story. At each extremity is a tower, with
rustic stone corners, containing one window each in
front, corresponding with the building. These towers
rise above the rest of the front, first with an arched
•window, above that a port-hole window, and the top
is terminated with a dome, crowned with a vane.
The center is connected with the turrets over the
building, by a breast-work of solid piers, and open
lattice-work, alternately, corresponding with the win-
dows beneath, which have stone-work under them,
carved in like manner.
The four sides of the inner court are faced with
Portland-stone, and the two wings, which extend
from the garden-front towards the river, are above one
hundred feet in length. The principal door of the
house
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 48i
house opens to a vestibule, about eighty-two feet
long, and upwards of twelve feet wide, properly or-
namented with columns of the Doric order. Each
end of it communicates with a stair-case leading to
the principal apartments, which face the garden.
They consist of several spacious rooms, fitted up in
the most elegant manner. The ceilings are embel-
lished with copies of antique paintings, or fine orna-
ments of stucco, richly gilt. The chimney-pieces are
of curious marble, carved and finished in the most
correct taste. The rooms are hung either with beau^
tiful tapestry, or the richest damasks, and magnifi-
cently furnished with large glasses, settees, marble
tables, &c. with frames of exquisite workmanship^
richly gilt. They also contain a great variety of pic-
tures, executed by the most distinguished masters,
particularly Raphael, Titian, Paul Veronese, Salvator
Rosa, Rubens, Vandyke, &c. Among these is the
Cofnaro family, painted by Titian, which was sold to
Algernon, Earl of Northumberland, in the reign of
Charles I. by Vandyke, for one thousand guineas.
In some of the rooms are large chests, embellished
with old genuine Japan, which, being great rarities,
are esteemed invaluable.
The gallery, or ball-room, in the east wing, is
decorated in a very elegant manner. It is one hun-
dred and six feet long, and twenty-seven feet wide.
The ceiling is carved and ornamented with figures
and festoons, richly gilt. The flat part of the ceil-
ing is divided ii^to five compartments, ornamented
with fine imitations of some antique figures; parti-
cularly, a Flying Fame, blowing a trumpet; a Diana;
a triumphal car, drawn by two horses ; a Flora ; and
a Victory, holding out a wreath of laurel; The en-
tablature is Corinthian, and of most exquisite work-
maosbip.
The
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166 HISTd&T AN0 SUEY^Y M
The gardea lies between the hoiMie and tht
Itiames, and with a little expense might ha^Fe a
terrace walk on the bank of the river, equal, in the
extent and beauty of its prospect, to eitbei Som^«-
«et-house or the Adelphi. Some years back it was
4;ioped that this improvement would have taken
-place, the duke having obtained all the ground
'from the garden to the river from the crown in
exchange for lands in Northumberland, which were
wanted for the erection of batteries to protect thdt
<:oast.
At the west end of the Strand is a large opening,
mailed Charing-cross, which is so denominated from
Jhaving been anciently a village, named Charing, in
which King Edward !• caused a magnificent cross
to be erected in commemoration of his beloved
Queen Eleanor, part of which continued till the civil
irVars in the reign of Charles L when it was
entirely destroyed by the populace, as a monument
of popish superstition. However, after the re-
storation, an equestrian statue of King Charles L
was erected op the spot where this cross stood,
which is still called Charing^cross. It has the ad-
vantage of being well placed at the meeting of three
great streets ; the pedestal on which it stands is
finely elevated, and the horse full of fire and spirit ;
but the man is not thought to be equally well
executed.
This statue, which is of brass, was cast in 1633,
by Le Sueur, who made the curious brass monu-
ment of the Duke of Buckingham in Henry Vllth's
chapel, for the Earl of Arundel. After tlie execu-
tion of Charles 1. the parliament ordered it to be
destroyed ; it was however purchased by a brazier
in Holborn, of the name of Revet, who concealed
it until the rei^toration, when he presented it to
Charloi
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LOKIMN AND ITS ENTIROMS. 487
Charles II. who caused it to be erected in its pre>*
sent situation.
On this subject, M. Grosfey in his Tour to Londcm^
vol. 1. p. 803, says, " I diall speak of it only to re-
mind the reader that this statue, being in the heat
of the rebellion sold by auction, was knocked down
at a low price to a cutler, who declared by adver-'
tiseoient, he would melt it down, and make handles
for knives of it. He, in fact, caused knives with
bronze handles to be exposed to sale in his shop, by
which he soon made a fortune ; the faction which
opposed the king being all desirous of having some
part of his statue debased to a knife handle.''
To the north of Charing-cross is a large square^
on one side of which is a handsome building, used
as stables for his Majesty's state holrses, and known
by the name of the Kinjps-mews.'*
This place is of great antiquity, and is thus de-
nominated from the word Meia^ a term used among
falconers, signifying to moult or cast feathers. It
was used for the accommodation of the king's fal-
coners and hawks, so early as the year ly?? ; but
the king's stables at Lomesbury (now called Blooms-
bury) being destroyed by fire in the year 1537,
King^ Henry Vlil. caused the hawks to be removed,
and the Mews enlarged and fitted up for the recep-
tion of his Majesty's horses; and the royal stables
have ever since been kept in this place.
The old building being greatly decayed, the north
side w^ erected in a magnificent manner by his late
majesty, in the year 173V. This side of the Mews
is exceedingly noble, particularly the center, which
is enriched with columns of the Doric order, and a
pediment. The smaller pediments and rustic arches
under the cupolas or lanthorns, are properly subor-
dinate to the principal one, but set so close to the
fcalustrade, that its intention as a gallery is de-
stroyed.
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488 HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
fttroyed. The edifice itself is greatly injured by the
mean buildings that form the other sides of the qua-
drangle. If these were made to correspond with the
main building, and a suitable entrance formed from
Charinj2;-cross, the royal stables would be a dis-
tinguished ornament to this part of the metropolis.
In Castle-street, near the Mews, is a free-school»
with an excellent library over it, both founded and
endowed in the year l68o, by Dr. Thomas Tennison,
vicar of this parish, and afterwards Archbishop of
Canterbury. Adjoining to this library and school is
the workhouse for the poor, all of them erected
upon a piece of ground granted to. the inhabitants
of this parish by King James L for a burial ground.
A little to the south of Charing-cross, on the west
side of the street leading from thence to Westmio-
sterrabbey, and nearly opposite to Scodand-ysird, is
situated the Admimlty-office, a massy building of
brick and stone. It has two deep wing», and is
entered by^ a lofty portico, supported by four very
tall stone columns, with Ionic capitals, to which
there is an ascent by a few steps; but this por-
tico, which was intended as an ornament to the
building, rather di^usts than pleases, in consequence
of the immoderate height of the columns. It is said
that the architect who built this portico, had made
the shafts of a just length, when it was observed
that the pediment interrupted the light of some of
the apartments, in consequence of which he was
compelled to violate every rule of architectural
proportion, and carry his columns to the roof of the
building. Happily, however, this clumsy pile is
concealed from view by a very handsome screen,
built by Messrs. Adams', in the center of which is
an arched gateway, over which runs a balustrade.
On each side of the gate is a niche, surmounted by a
pedestal, on Which is the figure of a winged sei^
. - 2 horee,
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 489
horse. In front of the screen is a colonade of the
Doric order, and at each extremity are three niches»
above which are tFJangular pediments; in one of.
these pediments is a basso-relievo of the prow of a
Roman galley, and in the other the bow of a British
three-decked man of war.
Besides a hall and other commodious apartments
for transacting business in the main building, the
wings are formed into six spacious houses, and are
adapted for the residence of the lords commissioners
of the admiralty.
This office was originally held in the large house
at the south end of Duke-street, Westminster^
which overlooks St. James's Park ; but in the reign
of King William it was removed to Wallingford
House, on the same spot as the present building,
which was erected in the late reign.
Scotland-yard, on the opposite side of the street,
derives its name from a magnificent palace built there
for the reception of the Scotish monarchs, whenever
they visited this capital. It was originally given by
King Edgar to King Kenneth III, for the humiliating
purpose. of his msdiing an annual journey to this
flace to do homage for his kingdom of Scotland.
!i after times it was used by his successors when
they came to Westminster to do homage for the
counties of Cumberland and Huntingdon, and other
fiefs held by them of the crown of England.
Contiguous to this is a large building called the
Banque ting-house, but more generally known by
the name of Whitehall.
The old palace of Whiteliall, to which this
building was annexed, was originally erected by
Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, who in the year
1242 bequeathed it to the Black Friars in Chancery-
lane, Holborti, in 'whose church he was interred.
But in 1248, these friars having disposed of it to
VOL. m. arr Walter
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4^90 HISTORY AND PURVEY OF
Walter de Grey, Archbishop of York, he left it to
his successors, -the archbishops of that see, for their
city mansion, and hence it obtained the name of
York Place. This mansion, with two gardens, three
acres of land, artd the appurtenances, were seized
by Henry VIll. in the twenty-first year of his reign,
when Caitiinal Wolsey incurred the premunire by
which all his goods and possessions \yere forfeited
to the crown : and when the kiijg afterwards restored
the possessions of the archbishoprick of York to him,
this place was reserved.
Henty was no s<x)ner possessed of this palace,
than he enclosed the park for the use of this and
the paface of St. James, and also built the beautiful
gate across the street, of which a view is annexed.
To this he added a magnificent gallery for th«
accommodation of the royal family, the nobility,
and great officers of state, who sat there to see the
tournaments and military exercises performed in the
tilt-yard ; and, soon after, the king, who had a
greater taste for pleasure than for elegance in his
mansions, ordered a tennis-court, a cockpit, and
bowling-greens to be formed, with other places for
different kinds of diversion.
The design of the gate was by Holbein. It was
built with bricks^of two colours, glazed and disposed
, in a tesselated fashion. The top of it, as well as those
of an elegant tower on each side, were embattled.
On each front were four busts in baked clay, in
proper colours, which resisted every attack of the
weather to the last. When this gate was taken
down, about fifty years ago, William Duke of
Cumberland had all the parts of it numbered, with
an intention of rebuilding it at the top of the \<m^
walk at Windsw; but this design was never carried
into execution.
*' From
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 491
From the time of Henry, Whitehall became the
royal residence of the kings of England, and so
continued till the year 1697, when, by an accidental
fire, it was entirely destroyed, except the present
edifice, which had been added to the old palace by
King James 1. in the year 1649, according to a
design of Inigo Jones.
. This magnificent structure is built entirely of
stone, and is divided into three stories. The lowest
story has a rustic wall with small square windows,
and serves as a basis for the orders.. On this is raised
the Ionic, with columns and pilasters; and between
the. columns are well proportioned windows, with
arched and painted pediments. Over these is placed
the proper entablature, on which is, raised a second
series of the Corinthian order, consisting of columns
and pilasters like the other. From the capitals
are carried festoons, which meet with masks and
other ornaments in the center. This series is also
crowned with its proper entablatures, whereon js
raised a balustrade with attic pedestals between,
which crown the work.
This building was only a small part of King
James's plan for rebuilding the royal palace ; the
remainder was left unexecuted on account of the .
turbulence of the times. It was to have consisted
of four fronts, each with an entrance between two .
square towers. The interior was to have contained
five courts, viz. a large one in the center, and tv^o
smaller at the ends; and between two of the latter,
a beautiful circus with an arcade below, the pillars
of which were to be ornamented with caryatides.
The length of this palace was to have been 1 1 o2 feet^
and the depth 874..^
The great room of this edifice is converted into a
chapel, in which service is performed every Sunday
morning and evening ; Geoige L having granted a
salary
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♦92 . HISTORT AND SlTRVEY OP
salary of thirty pounds per anaum to each of twelve
clergymen, selected equally fronni Oxford and Cam-
bridge, who officiate a month in turns. The ceiling
is richly painted by Rubens, the subject is the
Apotheosis of James /. which is treated in nine
compartments, and for boldness of design and suc-
cessful execution, cannot be too much admired.
This fine performance is painted bn canvass, and is
in fine preservation, A few years since, these
paintings were re-touched by Cipriani, with so
much address, as to leave no apparent difference in
the work. The altar-piece was preserved ftoxn the
fire which destroyed Whitehall, and given to this
chapel by Queen Anne.
The cost of erecting the banqueting-house was
seventeen thousand pounds. Rubens received three
thousand pounds for painting the ceiling ; but the
.remuneration to the architect was very dispropor-
tionate ; who, according to Mr. Walpole, received
only eight shillings and four-pence a day as surveyor
of the works, and forty-six pounds per annum for
house-rent, a clerk, and incidental expenses.
This place was chosen by the regicides who
brought Charles I. to the block, for the last act of
his mortal existence. On the morning of his exe-
cution he was conducted hither from St. Jameses,
and after passing a short space in his bed-room,
went from thence through a breach in the wall at
the north end of the room upon the scaffold. The
passage still remains, and is the door of a small
additional building.
In the court behind the Banqueting-house is an
'e:(ceUent statue in brass of James II. executed the
year before he abdicated the throne, by Gririyn
Gibboiis.
The old palace lay in ruins for many years; at
present the site of it, with a great part of the privy-
garden.
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LOKIK>N AKD ITS EKVIRONS 493
garden, is covered by the dwelling-houses of dif-
ferent noblemen and gentlemen, among which,
those of the Dukes of Richmond and BMccleugh,
and the £arl of Fife, are the most conspicuous ; the
embankment behind the latter is a great improve-
ment to this part of the banks of the Thames, and
commands a very extensive view of the water
between Blackfriars and Westminster Bridges.
Opposite to the Banqueting-house is a substantial
stone edifice, called the ItiorSe-guards, from the
circumstance of the King's guard of horse being
stationed here.
It consists of a center and two ^vings, and has an
air of solidity perfectly agreeable to the nature of
the building. In the center is an arched passage
into St. James's Paric, with a postern on each sid^
for foot passengers, above which is a pediment,
having the royal arms in has relief in the tympanum ;
and over all is a cupola, serving as a clock tower*
At each extremity of the center is a pavilion. The
v^ings are plainer than the center ; they consist of
a front projecting a little, with ornamented win-
dows in the principal face, and a plain one in the
sides. Each has its pediment, with a circular win-
dow in the center.
Adjoining to the Horse- guards is the Tilt yard,
already spoken of as the scene of Henry Vlllth's
military amusements. It retained its use during
the reign of his masculine daughter Elizabeth, who
was not less fond of witnessing athletic exercises
than her father. Here on the first of January, 1581,
was held a most sumptuous tournament, in honour
of the commissioners sent from France to prop<^se a
marriage between the Queen and the Duke d'Anjou.
son of Catharine de 'Medicis ; and here were the
annual exercises of arms during her reign, "by a
society of knights consisting of twenty-five of the
' most
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494 HISTORY AKD SURVEY OF'
most distinguished personages of the court. But
.this place was not the scene of chivalrous exploits
alone, it was sometimes devoted to more. ignoble
purposes, as may be seen in Sydney^s state papers^
voK I. p. 194, where, in an account of Queen Eli*
^abeth^s amusements in her sixty-seventh year, it
is said, ^* Her majesty says she is very well. This
day she appoints a Frenchman to doe ieates upon a
rope in the conduit court. To-morrow she hath
commanded the bear, the bull, and the ape to be
bayted in the tilt-yard/^ The site of this place is
now occupied by a convenient guard-room, aad
other offices for the use of the foot guards.
That part of St. James's Park behind the Hofsq-
guards^ is called the Parade, from being the place
where 'the reliefs for the different guards about the
palace ar^ paraded and inspected every morning. At
the south end of this place is a stone building, called
the Treasury.
The whole front of this edifice is rustic ; it con-
sists of three st(M'ies, of which the lowest is of the
basement kind, with smaH windows, though they
are contained in large arches. This stoiy has the
Tuscan proportion, and the second the Doric, with
arched windows of a larger size; the upper part of
this story is, with great inconsistency, adorned with
the triglypbs and metopes of the Doric frieze, though
the range of ornament is supported by neither co-
lumns nor pilasters. Over this story is a range of
Ionic columns in the center, supporting a pediment.
A variety of offices are under the roof of this^build-
ing, among which is the Council-chamber, com-
monly called the Cockpit, where, until within a
few years, his Majesty's intended speech was read to
the members of both houses, on the evening pre-
vious to opening the parliament. There are vaulted
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 495
passages through this building into Downing-street
snd Farliament-street.
On the north side of St. James's Park, and at the
west end of Fall-maH, is situated the royal palace of
St. James.
This palace stands on the spot where was once
^n hospital dedicated to St. James, originally
founded by the citizens of London, for fourteen
^vomen afflicted with the leprosy, who were to live
a. chaste and devout life; but afterwards additional
donations coming in, the charity was greatly ex-
tended, and eight brethren were added to admi-
nister divine service. This hospital is mentioned
iTi a manuscript in the Cottonian library, so early as
the year 1 100. The custody of this hospital was given
to litoii college, by a grant of the 28th of Henry VI.
hy whom, in the year liSl, it was surrendered to
King Henry VIII. who took down the whole edifice,
except the chapel, and erected the present palace in
its stead, which from the saint to whom the hospital
was dedicated, was called St. James's Palace.
In this edifice our kings have kept their court ever
since the palace at Whitehall was consumed by fire,
in 1697. It is an irregular brick building, without
the least ornament. In the front, next St. James's-
strect, is a Gothic arched gateway, that leads into a
small square court, with a piazza on the west side:
on the south side of this court is the guard-nom, the
entmnce to which is by the grand stair-case, situated
at the sotiA-west comer of the piazza. The build-
ings are low and plain; and there are two other
courts beyond, that have very little the apjxjarance "
of a palace. The windows, however, look into a
large garden, and command a very plea'Sant view of
* St. James's Park.
On the west side of the square is the chapel,
Which is the same as belon^red to the ancient hospi-
l tal,
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496 . IHSTORY AND SURVEY OF
tal, and, ever since that building was demolished^
has. been converted to the use of the royal family.
It is a royal peculiar, and exempt from all episcopal
jurisdiction. The service is performed in this cha-
pel, in the same mamier as at cathedrals ; and there
belong to it a dean, a lord-almoner, a sub-dean,
and forty-eight chaplains, who preach in turn before
the royal family.
Uncreditable as the outside of St. James's Palace
may look, it is said to be the most commodious for
regal parade of any in Europe ; and although there
is nothing very superb or grand in the decorations
or furniture of the rooms, they are very conunodious,
and contain some excellent paintings, principally
portraits.
There are two levee rooms, the one serving a& an
anticliamber to the other, which were fitted up, as
they appear at present, on the marriage of the Prince
of Wales. The walls are hung with very beautiful
tapestry, which, though made for Charles 11. is quite
fresh in its colours, having accidentally lain neglected
in a chest, till a short time before it was put up. In
the grand levee room is a xery elegant bed, the fur-
niture of which is of crimson velvet, manufactured
in SpitalBelds. This bed was put up on the same
occasion. The canopy of the throne was made for
the first public court day after the Union ; which was
the day kept in honour of her majesty's birth. It is
also of crimson velvet, .laced with broad gold lace,
and ornamented with embroidered crowns, set with
fine pearls.
To a stranger, the exterior of St. James's Palace
conveys a very mean idea of both king and people.
In other nations, the attention of foreigners is struck
with the magnificent residence of the sovereign, on
which all the decorations of architecture are lavished,
without the least regard to expejose. The outside is
grand
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liONBQN Ai^D ITS EKVIBONS. 497
grand and noble, and the galleries and apartments
sure adorned with ail the choicest specioi^is of art,
the finest efforts of genius, and the most rare and
precious productions of nature ; for the magnificence
of the palace is intended to give an idea of the
power and riches of the kingdom. But^ if the power
and the wealth of Great Britain should be estimated by
the appearance of this palace, how egr^ious would
be the mistake ! It is, however, a reproach to the ^
public spirit of the nation, that the principal, palace
of their sovereign, in which he receives the ambassa^
dors of other powers, should be so vastly inferior to
almost every public building in the metropolis.
In the reign of Henry VIII. St. Jameses Park was
a desolate marshy field; but that prince, on his build-
ing the palace, inclosed it, laid it out in walks, and,
cmlectii:^ the waters together, gave to the new inclosed
groiind, and new raised building, the name of St.
James. It was afterwards much enlarged and im-
proved by King Charles 11. who added to it several
fields, planted it with rows of lipne-trees, laid out the
Mall, which is a vista half a mile in length, and waa^
at that time, formed into a hollow smooth walk, in-
closed by a border of i^ood on each aide, with an
iron hoop at one end, fpr the purpose of playing a
game with a ball, called Mall. He also fonped the
water into a canal of one hundred feet broad, and
two thousand eight hundred feet long, with a decoy
and other ponds for water-fowl. One of the avenues
formed by him, acquired the name of the Bird-cage-
walk, wluch it still retains, from his aviary besidp it»
and the number of cages hung in the trees. '^ Here,^^
says Cibber, in the Apology for his Life, " Charles
was often seen, amidst crowds of spectators, feeding
his ducks, and playifig with his dogs, and passing
his idle moments in a&bility, even to the meanest
of h£3 subjects, which made him to be adored by the
vou III. s s 8 common
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498 HISTORY AKD SURVEY Ot
common people/' Succeeding kings allowed the
people the privilege of walking in it, and King Wil-^
liam ILK in l699i granted the neighbouring inhabit
tants a passage ipto it from Spring-garden, on condi*
tion they kept the pavement in repair.
This park is nearly a mile and a half in circum-
ference, surrounded by many magnificent snructure&y
and always open for the accomnaodation and recrea-
tion of the public. Many improvements have bc^en
made in it since the days of Charles ; in particular,
his decoy has been destroyed, and the canal has been
much curtailed of its original length.
At the west end of St. James's Park, fronting the
Mall, is a very handsome building, now called the
Queen's Palace.
The first edifice on this spot was originally knowR
by the name of Arlington-house; which being pur-
chased by the Duke of Buckingham, who rebuilt it
in 1703, it was called Buckingham-house, till the
year 1763, when his present majesty bought it ; and
It has obtained the name of the Queen's Palace,
from having been settled on her majesty in 177^) iii
lieu of Somerset-bouse.
This edifice is a mixture^of brick and stone, in the
front of which is a spacious court-yard, enclosed by
a semi- circular sweep of iron rails. The ]»*incipat
door is placed between four tall Corinthian pilasters,
which are fluted, and reach to the top of the second
story. Within this compass are two series of very
large and lofty windows, over which is the entabla-
ture. Above is an attic story; with square windows
and Tuscan pilasters ; and the whole is crow^ned
with a jt)aiustrade, which conceals the roof. On eadi
side of the building are circular colonades^ of the
ionic order, also crowned with a baluslwleand vases.
These colonades join the offices at the extremity of
the wings to the. main building; and on the top of
each
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LONDON. AND ITS ENVIRONS. 49^
each of these offices is a turret, supporting a dome,
from which rises a weather-cock. 7
The situation of this palace is exceeding pleasant ;
for it not only commands a prospect of St^ James's
Park, in front, but has also a spacious park behind it,
together with a laige garden and terrace ; from the
latter of which, as well as from the apartments, there
is a beautiful prospect of the adjacent country.
Several new buildings have been lately added to
it, particularly a library and a riding-school. The
library is furnished with the best authors, in vacious
languages; and in both that and the gallery are great
numbers of curious prints and paintings, executed
by the best masters. Among these were the famous
cartoons of Raphael, which are now removed to
Windsor.
On the north-west side of the Queen's Palace is
the Green Park, which extends from St. James s
Park to Piccadilly; from the latter of which it is se-
parated, in some parts, by a wall, and by an iron-
railing in others. The ranger's lodge at the top of
the hill, fronting towards Piccadilly, with its garden^
and pleasure-grounds, forms a very picturesque ob-
ject,, and is seen to advantage from the ride on the
south side of the park, called Constitution-hill. This
park coipitributes greatly to the pleasantness of the
two palaces, as well as to the surrounding houses,
that are situated so as to command a view of it.
To the east of St. James's Palace, behind the ■
bouses in PalL-mall, stands Marlborough House,
built in the reign of Queen Anne, at the public ex-
pense, lliis is a very large brick edifice, ornamented
with stone, and built in a peculiar taste. The front
is extensive, and the wings on each side. are deco*
rated at the corners with a stone rustic. The' top of
it was originally finished With a balustrade, but that
has been since altered, and the first storv is crowned
WltljL
^.
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500 HISTORY AJID SURVEY OF
with an attic story raised above the cornice. A small
colonade extends on the side of the area, next the
wings, and the opposite side of the area is occupied
by offices. When this structure was finished^ the late
Duchess of Marlborough intended to have opened a
way to it from Pall-mall, directly in the fronti as
appears from the manner in which the court-yard is
formed; but Sir Rebert Walpole havhig purchased
the house before it, and not being upon good terms
^ith the duchess, she was prevented from executing
her design. The front, next the park, resembles the
other, only, iu3tead of the two middle windows in
the wings, there are niches for statues; and, instead
of the area in front, there is a descent by a flight of
steps, into the garden. The apartments within are
noble and well disposed, and the furniture is exceed-
ing magnificent. In the Vestibule, at the entrance,
is painted the battle of Hochstet, in which the most
remarkable scene is the taking the French general,
Marshal Tallard, and several other officers of great
distinction, prisoners. The figures of the great Duke
of Marlborough, Prince Eugene of Savoy, and Ge*
neral Cadogan, are finely executed. The expenseof
this building exceeded forty thousand pounds.
On the same side of Pall-mall, near the east end,
is Carlton House, the residence of his Royal High-
ness the Prince of Wales. The. old house was the
favourite residence of his majesty's mother, when
she was Princess Dqwager of Wales. The present
building was erected a few years ago, and is a veiy
handsome, though low, structure. It is 6f stone,
with two projecting wings, and contains a principal
and a mezzanine story. The grand entrance is by a
magnificent Corinthian portico, over which is a tri-
angular pediment, containing the prince's arms, in
basso relievo. Round the top of the whole building
is a balustrade, which conceals the roof. In front of
thp
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UWDON AUD ITS' ENVIAOITft. Mt.
the house is a^ndsonie colonade of the Ionic order^
on the ceDtre of the e&tahiature of which is a very neat
military trophy, between the royal supporters; and
behind the homse is a very handsomegarden, extending
to St. JamM^s Park, in the vr^l of which there is a
gate, with asummer-houae over it. There are several
magnificent apai'tments in this building, and the
;finest armoury in the world. The coUection is so
extensive as to occupy four rooms, and* consists of
specimens of whatever is cupious or rare, in the annv
of every modern nation, wi'th many dioice specimeDa
of ancJent avmeur
At the east end of Pall-mall is a long spaciousi
street, known by the name of the Hay-lnarket, tad
so called fix^m its beii^ a great market for hay and
straw, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
On the west side of this street is the Opera-boose^
which was originally built, on the same site, by Sif
John Vanburgh; though Pennant, by an unac-
countable error, names Sir Christopher Wren as the
architect. This building stood until the year 1789,
when it was destroyed by fire ; immediately after
which the present edifice was erected ; but owing^
to a want of money, the front of it is not yet finished.
The interior of this theatre is fitted up in a style of
great magnificence ; and the representations usually
commence in December, and continue till June, or ,
July, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, only.
Opposite to this is the Little Theatre, which is a
plain brick building, with nothing to distinguish it,
except a portico to shelter the persons waiting for
admittance from the weather. The performances at
this theatre commence on the 1 5th of May, and clos^
en the 14th of September.
To the east of the Hay-market is a spacious square,
containing an area of between two and three acres,
which is called Leicester Square, from a large man-
sion
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S0% HISTORT and SVKTRY OF'
tion which formerly stood on the north side of it,
and belonged to the Earls of Leicester. This bouse
was the residence of Frederick, Prince of Wales,
father of his present majesty ; and this was the birth-
place of the whole of the family, except the king, who
was born at Norfolk House, in St. James's-square. Th«
site of this building is now occupied by a handsome
modern street, called Leicester-place. Adjoiniug to
this is a large brick building, called Saville House,
which was the residence of his majesty when Prince
of Wales, and afterwards of Sir Geor^ Saville ; from
whose family the name of the house is derived. The
inner part of the square is inclosed with iron rails,
and adorned with grass-plats, plantations of trees,
and gravel walks, hi the center is a gilt equestrian
statue of his late majesty, George 11. which waa
brought from the Duke of Chandois's seat, at
.Cannons, near Edgeware.
CHAP. XXXIX.
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XOKDOM AKD ITS SKVIRONB. MS
CHAP. XXXIX.
CoverU Garden.-^St. PauL'^The Themres.'--^Drury Lane%
''-^Poliet Officas.'^^SL Anii/B.^^^Geraird House.-^Soho^
vptare^r^^St. James^/^^Piccadilly^ — BurU,ngicn House*
— Dfgvanskire Hausc-^^Albany^^^^Poget House. — St.
James^s^quare* — The PatUhem. — Camaby Market.'-^
Golden-square. — St. George.'^Hanoyer-sauare.'^Gros^
venor^square.^'Ckmduit'Street. "Trinity CnapeU^Berke^
ley»5quare.''-^Lansdoum House. — May ^f air. -— * Ckes^
t^rfieid Hmkse.^St. Gewrg^s Hospital.— Hyde Park.
Of the parishes taken out of St. Martin in the
Fields, that of St. Paul, Covent-garden, is the roost
ancient. The place whereon the greatest part of it
is situated was anciently a large garden, belonging
to the Abbot and Convent of Westminster; whence
it received the appellation of the Convent Garden^
which it still retains, with a trifling variation. At
the suppression of the religious houses, by Henry
YIIL this garden devolved to the crown ; and in the
year 1547, Edward VI. conferred it upon the Duke
of Somerset. Upon his attainder, it returned into
the hands of the king, who, on the 9th of May, ISAi^
granted it, with a field on the north side, denomi-
nated the Seven Acres, though, from its length, mom
commonly called the Long Acres, to \Fohn, Earl of
Bedford.
Soon after Edward had gmnted t^e precinct of
Covent-garden to the Earl of Bedford, he built a
house therein for bis town residence. This house,
which, till the year 1704, stood on the north side of
the Strand, where at present the lower end of South-
ampton-sti^et is situated, was a mean wooden build-
ing, shut out from the street by a brick wall, and
with a garden behind, under the north wall of which
4 ^he
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jSOfk jutnnT Amn mmw%Y mt
the market was kept: but when SoatfaamptoB and
Tavistock streets, and Maiden-lane, were erected on
the site of Bedfard-home ajul gmidens, the maffket
was moved farther into the square. Had this square
))een completed on the plan designed for it l^lhigo
Jones, .it would have formed .one of the hand-
WBMSt in Etuttpe. The piarraj whieh wm only
erected on the north «nd «ast aides, is grand «nd
noble, and the saperstmcture it supports is light and
elegant; but the introduction of die market piars
she whole design.
The churob,. which is^tuntedonihe west aide of
the square, was erected by the Eari of Bedford, for
the use of his tenants, prior to the year 1638 ; in
which year^ as appeals irom a manvscript in the
HatidflA ooUeciioB, . kiserted in the Gentleman's
M^gaoiae, JGk November^ 1789» a dispute between
the ead and the Vicar of St. Martin's in the Fielda,
wlatLve to the right of patronage, was hsasi befoie
the privy-cottncii; by whom it was -d^termified, ^at
it sbotikl be .a chapel of ease to St. Martin's parish,
vntil aA act of parliament could be passed for makii^
it parocbial. After the settlement of this dkspute,
the cfaa^ was consecrated, by William Jux-on^ Bi-
^op of LondcoQ, on the 3.7th of Septemher, ia the
aasneyear.
The unsettled period which followed, prevented
ithe passing of an act as agreed on ; however, en the
7th t)f January, in the year 1645, the lords and com-
mons, sitting at Westminster, issued an ordinance,
wihereby it was separated from St. Martin^ and
constituted an independent parish, with power to
^ect officers, and raise money for the necessary ex-
penses of the new establishment. But this being an
JUegal ordinance, an act of padittmeht was obtained
immediatdy after the restoration of Chades^ IL
ibr the same puqpoae, by which the {^tronage of
it
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LOKDOK AND ITS EKTIRONV. SOS
it WAS vested in the Earl of Bedford, bis heirsi and
assigns.
This church, which is dedicated to St. Riul, the
Apostle, 10 remarkable for its majestic simplicity. It
is said, on the authority of Lord Oxford, that wheii
the earl engaged Inigo Jones to build it, he told him
he wanted a chapel, not much better than a bam : tb
which the architect replied, " Well, then, you shaU
have the handsomest barn in England.'^ In the front
is a plain but noble portico, of the Tuscan order, exe-
cuted in the most masterly manner ; the columns are^ .
massy, and the intercolumniation large. Though m
plain as possible, the building is happily propor^
tioned. The walls are of brick, but were cased with
stone about the year 1788, at an expense of eleven
thousand pounds, including the other repairs at that
time. Tlie windows are of the Tuscan order, to cor-
respond with the portico, and the altar-piece is
adorned with eight fluted columns of the Corinthiaa
order. The roof was entirely of wood, and consi-
dered a most inimitable pie<:e of architecture, being
supported by the walls alone. Unfortunately, this
was destroyed by a fire, which, consumed the whole
interior of the church, on the 17th of September,
1795; since which it has been, repaired, and is very
little different from its original appearance.
The patron of this parish enjoys the unusual pri-
vilege of nominating a churchwarden; the rec-
tor nominates another, and the parishioners elect
a third.
The election for members to serve in parliament,
for the city of Westminster, is held in front of this
church, on temporary hustings erected for that pur-
pose.
Within the square is the principal market for ve-
getables and fruit in the metropolis.
YOL. HI. T 1 1 In
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J06 HISTORY AND fiURV£Y OF
In the north*east comer of the square, under the
piazza, is one of the entrances into Covent-garden
Theatre ; but the principal entrance is in Bow-street.
This building id so environed with houses, that v^iy
little of its exterior form can be seen.
At a small distance from hence, in Brydges-street,
is Drury-lane Theatre, which, should it be finished
according to the design prepared for it by Mr. Hoi*-
land, the architect under whose direction it was
erected, will form one of the most distinguished or-
naments of the metropolis. The embarrassments of"
the concern have, however, pressed so heavily on its
funds, that the building has been suspended for
some years.
The origin of the English stage is not known with
certainty; but it is much more ancient than isc(Hn-
monly supposed, and may be traced nearly as £ar
back as the Conquest. Fitsstephen, who wrote his
Descriptio Nobiiiissimce Cwiiaiis Lofuhmce^ in the
reign of Henry II. says, ^^ Instead of conmion inter-
ludes belonging to the theatre, London has plays of
a more holy subject; the representations of those
miracles which the holy confessors wrought, or of
the sufferings, wherein the glorious constanov of the
martyrs appeared.^' This author died in the year
1191, and as he does not mention these representa-
tions as novelties, but as the common diversions in
use at the time he wrote, it must be evident, that
' they are entitled to a date considerably anterior to
his publication, which is much earlier than any other
nation in Europe can trace their theatrical perform-
ances. About one hundred and forty years after
this^ in the reign of Edward III. it was ordained by
act of parliament, that a company of men, called
Vagrants^ who had made masquerades through the
whole city, should be whipt out of London, because
they
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LONDON AND ITS ENYIHONS. 407
they represented scandalous things in the Utile ale-
houses, and other places where the populace assetn-
bled.
But the year 1378 is the earliest date we can find,
in which express mention is made of the representation
of mysteries in England. In this year, the scholars
of Paul's School presented a petition to Richard
11. praying his majesty " to prohibit some unexpert
people from representing the History of the Old Tes-
tament, to the great prejudice of the said clergy, who
have been at great expense, in order to represent it
publicly at Christmas.**
Stow, after relating from Fit2Stephen, the sports
and pastimes used by the Londoners, says, ''These,
or the like exercises, have beeq continued till our
time, namely, in stage-plays ; whereof ye may read
in Anno 13915 a play, by the parish-clerks of
London, at the Skinner's-well, beside Smith field,
which continued three days together; the king,
queen, and nobles of the realm being present. And
of another, in the year 1 409) which lasted eight days,
and was of matter from the creation of the world;
whereat was present most part of the nobility and
gentry of England. Of late times, in place of thos0
stage plays, hath been used comedies, tragedies, in«
terludes, and histories, both true and feigned; for the
acting whereof certain public places have beeqi
erected.'*
These mysteries were a rude, undigested jumble,
in which some miraculous history from the Old or
New Testament, was represented in a very uncouth
manner. They were succeeded by the Moralities,
in which there is some appearance of design, since
they had a fable and a moral : the dawnings of poetry
were also perceptible in them, iii the personification
of the virtues and vices. The Moralities were like«
wise of a religious tendency; for religion was then
every
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SOi jaiSTORY XV D fturnvsr of
every one's coQcem, and the adherents of eaeb
party employed these representations to favour the
introduction of their tenets. The prevalence of this
practice was so great, that in an act of parliament
passed in the 34tb of Henry VI IL for pronooting.
true religion, there is a clause prohibiting all rhymers
or players from singing in songs or playing in inter-
ludes, any thing &at should contradict the esta-
blished doctrine.
Comedies and tragedies b^gan to make their
appearance in the re^ of Queen £Iizabeth; Gam-
mer Gurton's Needle, our oldest comedy, having
first appeared in print in 167^* The licentiousness
of theatrical representations had become so great
at this period, as to be a subject of regulation*
Strype, in his continuation of Staw's Survey, speaking
of the stage, says, " This which was onoe a re-
creation, and used therefore now and then occa-
siiNially, afterwards, by abuse, became a trade and
calling, and so remains to this day. In those former
days, ingenious tradesmen and gentlemens' servants
would sometimes gather a company of themselves,
and learn interludes to expose vice, or to represent
the noble actions of our ancestois^ These they
X played at festivals, in private houses, at weddings,
or other entertainments, but in process of time it
became an occupation, and these plays being com-
monly acted on Sundays and festivals, the churches
were forsaken, and the play-houses thronged. Great
inns were used for this purpose, which had secret
chambers and places, as well as open stages and
galleries. Here maids and good citizens' children
were inveigled and allured to private and unmeefc
contracts ; here were publicly uttered popular and
seditious matters,. unchaste, uncomely, and shame-
ful speeches,^ and many other enormities.
•^Thit
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LONDON AKD ITS £KVIBOK«« ^OSt
^* The cotiaideration of these things occasioned
thd express prohibitioD of plays by the queen and
the, lord-mayor. And Sir James Hawes, mayor, in
the year 1574, by an act of ccnnmon-council, re*
gulated them/^
The substance of these regulations, the preamble
to which sets forth, that they were for ^^ the lawful,
honest, and comely use of plays, pastimes, and
recreations," is as follows: — I. No play to be acted
within the liberty of the city wherein should be
uttered nay words, examples, or doings of any un*
chastity, sedition, or such liUe unfit and uncomely
matter. S* No play tD be acted until first perused
and allowed by the lord-mayor and court of alder*
men. 3. No person to suffer plays or players in
his house or yard, unless with permission of the
iord-mayor and aldermen. 4, Persons^ having ob-
tained this permission) to give bond to the cham-
berlain for the maintenance of good order. 5* Not
to exercise this permission at anytime when the
same ^all be c<«inanded by the4ord-mayor and
court of aldermen to stay or cease; nor during the
time of divine service on Sundays or holidays.
6. Persons licensed, to pay such suras as shall be
agreed on between them and the lord-mayor, during
the continuance of the licence, to the use of the
poor of the city. 7- All forfeitures incurred for any
offence against this act, to be for the relief of the
poor.
These orders not being properly enforced, the
lewdness and immorality of the representations in-
creased so much, that they were afterwards totally
suppressed for a short time, but upon application to
the Queen and council, they were again tolerated
under new restrictions.
" But," continues Strype, « all these prescrip-
tions were not sufficient to keep them within due
order.
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ilO HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
order, but their plays so abusive oftentimes of vir-
tue, or particular persons, gave great offence, and
occasioned disturbances, whence they were now
and then stopped and prohibited.^^ This will serve
to shew the customs of the stage at that time, and
the early depravity of it.
There is some uncertainty as to the number of
playhouses in Tendon at this period. Two com-
panies of children, under the denominations of the
Children of the Chapel, and the Children of the
Revels, were very famous. The former, who were
the singing boys of the Chapel-royal, were esta-
blished in the beginning of Queen Elizabeth's reign^
and the other very soon after. The queen Imd
also formed a company of twelve of the principal
players of that time, who went under the name
of her Majesty^s comedians and servants, to whom
she paid handsome salaries ; and in addition to these,
many noblemen retained companies of players, who
acted not only privately in their employers^ houses,
but also publicly under their licence and protection.
Stiype says, " Players in former times were retainers
to noblemen, andf none had the privilege to act
plays but such. So, in Queen Elizabeth's time,
many of the nobility had servants and retainers who
were players, and went about getting their liveli-
hood that way. The Lord-admiral had players ;
so had Lord Strange, that played in the city of
London. And it was usual, pn any gentleman's
complaint of them for indecent reflections in
their plays, to have them put down. Thus once
the lord-treasurer signified to the lord-mayor to have
those players of the lord-admiral and Lord Strange
Srohibiled, at least for some time, because one
fr. Tilney had for some reason disliked them.
Whereupon the mayor sent for both companies,
and gave them strict charge to forbear playing till
further
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' LOVBON AND ITS ENTIEOKS S\\
fbrther orders. The lord-admiral's players obeyed,
but the Lord Strangers, in a contemptuous manner,
ivent to the Cro6S-keys» and played that afternoon.
Upon which the mayor committed two of them to
the Compter, and prohibited aU playing for the
future, till the treasurer's pleasure was further
known/' This was in 1589-
Many of our ancient dramatic pieces were per*
formed in the yards of carrier's inns; in which, in
the beginning of Queen Elizabeth's reign^ the co-
medians, who then first united themselves into
companies, erected an occasional stage. The form
of these temporary play-houses seems to be pre*
served in our modern theati*e. In them the galleries
were ranged over each other ori three sides of the
building. The small rooms under the lowest of
these galleries answer to our present boxes ; and it
is observable that these, even in theatres built in a
subsecjuent period expressly for dramatic exhibir
tions, still retained their old name, and are fre-
quently called rooms by our ancient Writers. The
yard bears a suflScient resemblance to the pit, ^ at
present in use. We may suppose the stage to have
been raised in this area, on the fourth side, with
its back to the gateway of the inn, where the money
for admission Was taken. Hence in the middle of
the Globe, and probably of the other public theatres,
in the time of Shakspeare, there was an open yard
or area where the common people stood to see the
exhibition, from which circumstance, they were
called by Shakspeare, " the groundlings," and by
Ben Jonson, ^^ the understanding gentlemen of the
ground."
The scunility and licentiousness so justly com-
plained of at the period of our dramatic history we
have spoken of, was not, however, of long dura-
tion. Towards the end of Elizabeth's reign the
reputation
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512 MIStORY ANB SURVEY OF
reputation of the players increased, and tbeir per^
form^nces grew mote respectable; in consequence
of which, they were not only tolemted, but en-
couraged ; and in the first year of the reign of
James I. a licence, under the privy seal, was
granted to Shakspeare, Fletcher, and several others,
authorizing them to act plays, not only at tbeir.
usual house, the Globe, on the JBankside, but in any
other part of the kingdom, during his majesty^s
pleasure. '■ About this time there were no le^ than
ten theatres open in London. Four of these were
private houses, viz. one in Blaclrfriars ; the Cockpit
or Phoenix, in Drury-lane ; one in Whitefiriars ; and
one in Salisbury-court- The other six were called
public theatres; the Globe, the Swan, the Rose,
and the Hope, oti the Bankside ; the Red Bull,
at the upper end of St. John^s-street, and the For-
tune, in Whitecross-street. Mr. Malone, whose
supplement to Shakspeare has furnished a consider-
able portion of the information contained in this
account, very justly observes, that the peculiar and
distinguishing marks of a private play-house were
not easy to ascertain ; but that it vras small, and
plays were usually represented there by candle-^
light. Perhaps this was the only difference; for
the private theatre in Blackfriars, and the public one
at the Globe, both belonged to Shakspeare's com-
pany of " comedians, and the performances at the
latter were always by day-light. One of these
theatres was a winter, and the other a summer
house, and as the Globe was partly exposed to the
weather, it was probably the summer theatre.
The price of admission into the best rooms or
boxes, about this time, appears to have been one
shilling. TTie galleries, or scaffolds, as they are
sometimes called, and that part of the house which
in private theatres was named the pit, probably from
1 . > the
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LOKDOK AKD ITS EKtlROKS^ Sid
the Cockpit in Druiy4ane, seem to have been sd
one price; and in houses of reputation, such as
the Globe, and that in Blackfriars^ the price of ad-
mission to those places was sixpence, while in some
meaner play-houses it vfos only a penny, and in
others two-pence.
From several passages in our old plays we learn,
diat spectators were admitted upon the stage^ and
that the critics and wits of the time usually sat
there. Some were placed on the ground, otheis
sat on stools, of which the price was sixpence or a -
shilling, according to the commodiousness of the
situation; and they were attended by paees, who
furnished them with pipes and tobacco, which was
stnoaked here as well as in other parts of the house;
yet it should seem that persons were suffered to sit
on the stage only in the private play-houses, where
the audience was more select, and of a higher class,
and that in the public theatres no such licence was
permitted.
For many years after the time of Shakspeare ther
female characters were represented by boys or young
men. Sir WiUi6m Davenant first introduced females
in the scene, and Mrs. Betterton is said to have been
the first woman that appeared on the English stage.
Andrew Pennycuicke played the part ofMatilda, in
a tragedy of Davenport's; in 1655 ; and Mr. Kynas-*
ton acted several female parts after the Restoration,
with such address, that a contemporary writer says,
M It has since been disputable among the judicious,
whether any woman that succeeded him touched
the audience so sensibly as he.-'
During the whole reign of James T. and great
part of timt of Charles I. the theatre seems to have
reached the height of its glory and reputation, but
the pn^ess^ of Puritanism was alike fatal to the
constitution and. the drama. From the commence-
▼01. III. u u u ment
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6H UI8T0EY AHD SUfiTXT Of
Hieiit of hwtilities between the kifig 9bA dig fm*
liament, thc^ perforinaQees were ftequepttj inters
rupted, and, at length, plays and plajr-houses weie
totally suppressed.
' This erent took place on the Uth of VAnmrf^
1647, at. which time an ordinance was issued by
the Lords and Commons, whereby dll staee-|dqrera
and players of interludes and coounon {Nays wete
declated to be rogues: and the Iwd-niayor, jtisticc*
ef the peace, and sheriflb of the cities of Loedoil
and Westminster, and of the boilnties of Middleaex
and Surrey, weire authorised and required to putt
down and demolish all fday-houses witkia tibeir
jurisdiction, and to apprdiend the a6toni» wbo
were to be publicly whipped^ after which thi^ weie
to be ccminitted to prison till th^gare security
that they would not act again. It was also dectered.
that all the monby collected at the play-housei
should be forfeited to the poor ; and a penalty of
five shillings was imposed on every peHsoii yrba
fbQuld be piresent at any dramatic exbihiticHifc
Some few attemt)ts to revive the drama wereawdk
luting Ae interremum^ though widl very little
success in the eany parts of it ; but the pieaauis
which Imd been received fvom dramatic .enterlbin-
ments was too deeply idipressed od the public aiiad
to be .wholly eradicated. Amidst the gkxxD of
fanaticism, and while the royal caus^was censidenBd
as desperate, Sir William Davenauft Without mo^
Icstatton^ sxhibiteci entert^nments df dedaoiAtfta
^nd music, after the manabr of the aaeieslB^ At
Rutland-house. He began in the year 1656, andiwA
j'ears after removed to the Cockpit, in Drui7--*kulet
where he performed until the eve t^ the Ratoratica.
. On the uppiearance of that ev^t tal^og plaeei '
the remaifiiiEig performa^coMected themselvea, and
began to resume ^eir former ^ns^loEjneatSi «t 4kt
Aed
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LOVDOy AVD ITS EKTIHOKI^ »li
yHfid ]Siifl, i« St. Ju^VsAreeti md jjo the year i6M,
JVb. ilhQ4^i!, « bookseller, >\(bo had been ^rxnerly
i¥ar4iK>be«]c4^e|)Mer t<> tj^e qcmpany wbicb acted iq
Bl^kfriftm, fitted tip the Cockpit, Iq Drury-Iaue*
Xbe «ci((M!9 be |«Qciu:ed \Kece chiefly »ew to the
lUii^ ; but frcmi tbfi 43figerne99 with .which two par
le^ta w^f^ .i^btalne^ ^ti^ the ccQwn, epoo ^ier Abe
j^H^tioD^ it may be presumed tha^t both conxpar
fki^fgififL s^itjb ft co«£iider£ifa|le sbai^ of success.
Sfs IfiUiwi Dav€^;^Dt obtained one of these ,ipar
teo^ afl4 ;KiUigrew 4be other. The 4iir8t had held a
|N|tei^ ^Qta Charley L ^d therefore his cl^im to a
fiew OPe was Ibiwde^s as well.oiY his former posses*
010% a9 fQPjhi^ secvices and sufferings in the royal
cayse: the latter h^d seodared biniMlf acceptable to
Ilia sovaf^ign, ps much by bis vices and follies, as by
|us:witjand;attachment to .the king in his distress.
JKiVigraw took the remains of the old companies, and
JPa^eiia&t the .actors who had been empl^ed by
jElbodes; ;f(nd all of them were sworn fby the lotd
johamb^rlfiipi as servants of the.qrowp ; the former
Leiqg^Q'M tbeKing^s company, 4<l(l < the latter the
|>iike of York's.
The king's company removed from the Red Bull
to |i t^w-buiit house, situated in Gibbons's Tennis*
!Ppurt, nepir Qare-market; but this theatre being
-^F^y fflcomniodious, they were obliged to erect a
«[iore<:on.veniedt one in Drqry-lane. This latter was
-^i^hed and opened on the 8th day of April, l66fi,
^With Beaumont and Fletcher's comedy of " The
liumoiirous Lieutenant;" which wias acted twelve
-Sights successively.^
I)arif)g tlie femovals of the king's company, their
rivals were shifting their places of performance, and
iWere §ome time^ before th^ were wholly settled,
j'pom the Cockpit, they went to -a new theatre, buik
hi Xiacpl^r»*lpn-jFields, which was opened in the
spring
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516 HISTORY AKD 6UKVEV OP
spring of the year 166S ; but this playhouse was like-
wise soon discovered to be. ill-contrived and incon-
venient; and Sir >\^llianx Davenant found it neces-
sary to seek a new spot, where he might erect one
more commodious. He chose Dorset-garden ; but
before his new theatre, which was fitted up with
much greater munificence than that in Lincoln^
Inn-fields, was finished, he died* This house was
opened in November, 1671 ; and here soon after was
introduced a new species of entertainment, in which
music, singing, and dancing, were added to splendid
scenery^ Dramatic operas, with expensive decora-
tions, soon came into fashion, and gave the duke's
company an advantage over their competitors, whicb
they were not entitled to by their merits.
In Januaiyt 1671-9, the playhouse in Drury-lane
took fire, and was entirely demolished, with between
fifty and sixty of the adjoining houses. After this
(iccident, the proprietors resolved to rebuild dim
theatre with all the improvements of which it was
capable, and for that purpose employed Sir Christo*
pber Wren to draw the design, and superintend the
execution of it. This theatre was opened on the
S6th of March, 167*.
After a rivalry, in which the emoluments of both
houses appear to have been very small; the one be-
ing but little frequented, on account of the superior
splendour of the other, while the great expense <^
maintaining that splendour, was too heavy for thek
receipts, it was discovered that it would be to their
mutual advantage to unite^ and open but one house.
This junction took place in 1682, when the duke's
company quitted ^Dprset^garden, and removed to
Prury-lane,
This united company had not all the success
V^hich was expected to attend their junction, if e
judgment m^y be formed from the frequencgr with
which
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L09D0N ASTD ITS ENTIRONS. 517
t^liira the property was transfened to new adven-
turers. At ten^h, in 1690/ Mr. Christopher Ribh
l^ecame a propnetor, and soon contrived to engross
the whole power into his own hands. By various
instances of misconduct and tyranny, he alienated
the aiTections of the principal performers, who ap*
plied for, and obtained, a license to act in a new
thtatre, i(K themselves. This theatre was erected in
liincdn's-Inn-Fields, and was opened on the 30th
of April, 1695, with extraordinary success; and the
•performers remained here until, upon Sir John Van-
4>argh's plan for erecting a larger and more magnifi^'
t;ent playhouse, in the Hay-market, being made
public, it was agreed that the license should be
assigned to him, and the company act under his
direction. This building being completed; was opened
on the 9th of April, 1705, with an Italian opera,
which, however, did not succeed as was expected j
and the representation of English pieces was found
much more profitable.
Still the existence of two companies appears to
lHivel>^en more than the public patronage would
support, and a new attempt was made to re-unite
fcbem, which, in 1708, was effected, through the in-
terposition of the lord chamberlain. It was then
resolved, that the Hay-market house should be
appropriated to Italian operas, and that in Drury-
Jane to plays. Rich, however, still retained the
jflMMgament of Drurylane, and, in less than a year,
.by persisting in the same tyrannical and oppretisive
conduct to the performers, forced them to solicit the
ebamberlaifn's permission to return to the Hay -market ;
which was not only granted, but an order was issued,
jcrbidding the patentees of the other house from
performing any longer.
In the folldwipg year, Mr. Rich was driven from
^fi|,ry*lanehouser and a license granted to Mr. Col-
4 Her*
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Alt HISXOAY AND SURVEy Of
lier^ to take the management of the coiBpifiy: h
1714, Sir Kkcliard Steele procured a patent for per*
formances at this theatre, to be in force djirimg hit
life, and for three years after his death ; which has
been renewed at ditfercnt tim^, and the perform^
Alices of the company have coDtiaued uniiiteirapteil
£nce that period.
When Kich was driven from Drury lane, he set
about rebuilding the theatre in Lincoln VInnrfields,
but could not get the prohibition, uiKler 'whiph hii
jNitent laboured, recalled^ until the ye^ 1744, w4
did not live to see his new house Otpen^^ wldch took
f^lace about six weeks after his death, under the ma^
nagement of his son. Thjs compaoy c^ perforoHm
^nder his direction, weie » much infenor to iho^
jof Dniry-lane, that the new matiager wad compell^
to have recourse to his own genius 6>r a speo^^af
•entertainment, which, however much it is decaned
as ^lly and cwtemptible, has always bfsen {otloii^
and encouraged. I Pantomimes were now brou^
ibrward as substitutes for good perforaiers,f|tid would
as certainly have turned the tide of popuhor farrow
against the rival house, as the dramatic c^eras^f j^
last century did, had not tlie Drury-lafie fc^mpapjr
^iven way to the public taste, and adopt^ the same
measures. In the year 1733, the pre^^ theatre ia
Covent^rden was finished, and Mr. .Ricfa'a coodr
'pany immediately removed thither.
The number of theatres in London waa increased
tti the year 1790,. by a new one in the Hay-market,
which was not built for any particular company, hnt
seems to have been intended as asp^UhrtioaJby the
builder, who relied onitsibeine hired .occasioQAUy
for dramatic -exhibitions. This taeatre ha^ i»Mn fre-
quently occupied, in the summer seRSOn^ Ivy vhrti^
of licenses from the Jotd chamberlain, wb«h in the
month of July, 17€6, it was advamed Qojtbed^ly
of
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, LONDON AND ITS EMTiaONS. 519
fi a Theatre Royal ; a |>atent being then made out,^
.to Mr. Foote, authorizinfl; him to build a theatre, in
the city and liberty of Westminster, and to exhibit
dramatic performances therein, from the 15th of
May, to the 14th of September, inclusive. On thi^
grant being passed, he purchased the old playhouse,
which he immediately pulled down and rebuilt, in
time to he opened in May, 1767*
There was also a theatre erected in GoodmanV
fidds, in the year 1739; but it was never very suc«*
cessful, nor was it of long duration.
The year 1737 produced an event which, however
arbitrary it was thought at the time, has contributed
peatly to preserve the drama from the reproach of
immorality, of which it was formerfy so deserving.
An act of parliament was passed in this year, prohi-
biting the representation of any performance not pre*
viously licensed by the lord chamberlain: the bistoTf
of which transaction is thus related in the Biographia
Dramatica. ^^ During the administration of a certain
premier ministre, the late Mr. Fielding, whose ge^
nuine wit, and turn for satire, were too .considerably
to need our expatiating on in this place, had, in two
or three of his comedies, particularly those of Pa9«
quin, and the Historical Register, thrown 4n some
strokes, which were too poignandy levelled at certain
measures then pursuing by those at the head of af-
fairs, not to be severely felt, and their consequences,
if not speedi^ put a check to, greatly dreaded l^y the
minister. Open violence, however, was not the most
eligible method to proceed in for this purpose. Not
a^restraiat of liberty, already made use o£y but a pre-
vention of licenliousness to come, was the ptop^tc
weapon to employ in such a case. A pieee, there-
fore, written by jsmnehedtf or other^ was offisred 4o
Mr. Henry Gimftl, the manager vi GiQQf^s^s^^M^^
theatre/
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620 UI9T0KY AND SURVEY OP
theatre, for representation. This piece was entitled
the Golden Rump, in which, with, a most un-
Dounded freedom, abuse'was vented not only against
the parliament, the council, and the ministry, but
even against the person of majesty itself. The
honest manager, free from design himself, suspected
none in others, but imagining that a license of this
kind, if permitted to run to such enormous lengths,
must be of the most pernicious consequences, quickly
fell into the snare, and carried the piece to the mi-
nister, with a view of consulting him as to his man-
ner of proceeding. 'The latter, commending highly
his integrity in this step, requested ^only the posses-
sion of the MS. but, at the same time^ that the
manager might be no loser by his zeal for the in-
terests of his king and country, ordered a gratuity,
equal to what he might reasonably have expected
from its representation, to he paid to him. Being
now become master of the piece itself, together with
the corroborating circumstance of the necessity of
employing the public money to prevent even abso-
lute treason on the open sta<^e, unless some autho-
rity of another kind could be found tor stopping
her mouth, he made such use of it as immediately
occasioned the bringing into, and pas^ng in par-
liament) the abovementioned bill.'^ .
This act was exceedingly unpopular, and did not
pass without opposition. It called forth the elo-
quence of Lord Chesterfield, who answered all the
arguments in favour of it, and contended against the
necessity for such a measure ; while out of the
house it was combated in every shape which wit,
ridicule, or argument could assume, but without
effect. The bill passed, and the then, and all
future ministers were freed from any apprehensions
of mischief from the wit or mdice of dramatic
writers.
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LONDON. AND ITS ENYII^OXS. 531
writers. But notwithstanding its unpoprriarity at
the moment, the test of experience has proved the
wisdom and policy of the measure.
A theatre is, of all places, the most improper for
the discussion of political topics, and the exclusion
of them from the stage would alone have sanctioned
the restrai[)t ; but when, in addition to this, we
consider that it is equally a check upon that indeli-
cacy of J language and ideas so prevalent in many of
our old plays, the salutary tendency of it will be
evident, and without enquiring mto the motive
which produced it, we must rejoice that it exists.
Drury-lane is so called from Drury-house, which
stood at the south end of it. Pennant observes,
that ^' it is singular that this lane, of later times ^so
notorious for intrigue, should receive its title from
a family name, which, in the language of Chaucer,
bad an amorous signification ;
Of bataille and of chevalrie
Of ladies love and Druerie\
Anon I wol you tell.*^
It will, however, be difficult to show any relation
between intrigue and Druerie, whidh is used, not
only by Chaucer, but by all our ancient writers,
to signify a modest and decent deportment. Nor
was the place less famous for intrigue formerly than
it has been in later times. In the forty-sixth num-
ber of the Tatler it is thus humourously described ;
" There is near Coven t- garden a street, known by
the name of Drury, which before the days of Chris-
tianity, was purchased by the Queen of Paphos,
and is the only part of Great Britain wh^re the te-
nure of vassalage is still in being. All that long
course of building is under^ particular districts or
ladyships, after the manner of lordships in other
vol.111. XXX partf^,
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69$ HISTORY ASD SUftVKY OF
parts, oyier which matrons of known abilities pre-
aide, and have, for the support of their s^ and
infirmities, certain taxes paid out of the rewards of
the amorous labours of the young. This seraglio of
Great Britain is disposed into convenient alleys and
apartments, and every house, from the cellar to
the garret, inhabited by nymphs of different orders,
that persons of every rank may be accommodated
with an immediate consort to allay their flames, and
partake of their cares."
In Bow-street is the principal office of police,
not only for the city and liberty of Westmin^er, but
also for the county of Middlesex. As this may
be considered the parental seat of the system of
police now exercised through the whole extent
of the metropolis, with the exception of the city
of London, we shall take this opportunity of no-
ticing the improvements introduced into' it in the
year 1792.
In a population so prodigious as that of the
metropolis, the number of the idle, the dissipated,
and the criminal, must be immense. According to
authentic accounts there are more disorderly people
to be found within its precincts than the whole
amount of the inhabitants of any other city in the
kingdom. Hence a d^ee of vigilance was ne-
cessary in the magistracy of it, for more extensive
and rigid than men of opulence and integrity chose
to exert. Their unwillingness to undertake so
heavy a charge obliged the government to have
recodrae to individuals of inferior character, who,
in accepting it, had an eye to the profits and emo-
luments arising from the exercise of the judicial
powers entrusted to them. From the period when
the .ancient and respectable office of a justice of
peace was thus degraded, it, by degrees, lost the
reverence in which it had been held; venal and
I inerceiiary
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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 693
mercenary individaals sought and obtained it^ whose
base practices became so notorious, that they drew
down general contempt and odium both upon
themselves and their functions ;^ and the villifying
appellation of a trading Justice was at last applied
with too much reason to many of those \yho exer-
cised that office*
To rectify the abuses imputed to these men, and
to rejtore the office itself to a proper d^ree of re-
spectability, a bill was brought into parliament in
March, 1792, for regulating the office of a justice '
of peace within the metropolis, and after some
opposition, passed into a law. In pursuance of this
act, seven offices, in addition to the one in Bow-
street, were opened in different parts of the metro-
polis, viz. in Queen-square, Westminster; Great
Marlborough-street; Hatton-garden ; Worship-street,
Spitalfields; Lambeth street, Whitechapel; High-
street, Shadwell; and Union-Street, Southwark*
Three justices are appointed to each of these offices^ *
with a salary of three hundred pounds per annum
to each of them. They are prohibited from ap-
propriating any part of the fees taken at their
respective offices to their own use, but the whole
of them are to be paid monthly to a receiver, and
the surplus, after payment of the salaries and ex-
penses of the different offices, is paid into the
Exchequer. And, in order, at the same tim^
wholly to suppress the name and business of a .
trading justice, no fees are allowed to be taken by
any other person in the commission of the peace
within the London district.
By this act government are enixbled to pr6vide
the public with respectable magistrates, who, while
they are paid for their trouble, have no pretext for
exacting money, or encouraging petty disputes
among the ignprant for the sake of fees or war-
rants,
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524 HISTOKY AXn SLllVEY OF
rants, and who will be fearful to act oppreswvdjr
while they are liable to be displaced for misconduct,
No^ greater proof of the efficacy of this measure
can be given than a comparison between the num*
ber of recognizances returned to the clerks of the
)>eace for various offences and disputes in the ses-
sions immediately preceding and during the pro-
gress of the bill, and in the corresponding sessions
in the year after it passed. In the former they
amounted to 3673, and in the latter to 1247i
making a difference of 1+26 in a very few months.
But notwithstanding the evident advantages of
such an establishment, the influence of government,
from its apf3oiiiting officers whose authority was to
extend over the 'whole metropolis, \vas a subject of
jealousy and disapprobation to many; for which
reason, the promoters of the bill intioduced clauses
prohibiting these magistrates, or any person under
their controul, from voting or interfering, either di-
rectly or indirectly, in the election of any member
of parliament, and from sitting in parliament, and
also, for limiting the duration of it to five years, li
has, however, been twice prolonged, though always
with. the addition of these restrictions, and will
probably continue to be renew^ed at the expiration
of each successive five years, while the labour
attending the office of a justice of the peace in
the metropolis shall remain such that persons of
opulence cannot be prevailed upon to undertake it.
Tlie parish of St Anne was separated from that
of St. Martin in the Fields by an act of parliament
passed in the year l66l ; previous to which, a piece
of fffound was laid out, under the authority of the
Bishop of London, in Kemp's field, now King-street,
for the site of a church and church- yard, and also
for a glebe for the support of a rector. But tlie
inhabitants not being empowered by this act to raise
money
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LONDON AKI> ITS ENVIRONS. 625
money for accomplishing their purpose, the building
of the church >was long interrupted, and at length
a second act vvas obtained, to enable them to raise
the sum of five thousand pounds, for the comple-
tion of the church, rectory house, &c. and on the
25th of March, 1 680, the church and cemetery
were consecrated by the Bishop of London.
The walls of this church are of brick, with rustic
quoins of stone, and at the east end is a large mo-
dillion cornice and triangular pediment. Tins church
has been lately repaired, and a handsom^ painted
4?las8 window has been put up at the east end.
'rbe tower and steeple at the west end were also
rebuilt at the same time.
The interior of the building is handsome. The
roof is arched and divided into pannels. It ^ is
supported by columns of the Ionic order; and the
gallery is raised on those of the Tuscan order. The
organ is the gift of King William UL
The parish is a rectory in ihe gift of the Bishop of
Londcm.
Against the tower is a tablet erected to the me-
mory of Theodore Anthony Newhoff, King of
Corsica, who died in this parish in the year 1756,
soon after his liberation from the King's-bench prison
by an act of insolvency. The malice of fdrtune
pursued this unfortunate man even after death. The
friend who sheltered him in the last days of his
wretched existence, was himself so poor as to be
unable to defray the cost of his funeral, and his
remains were about to be consigned to the grave
by the parish, when a Mr. Wright, an oilman, in
Compton-street, declared hejor once would pay the
funeral expenses of a king; which he actually did.
The marble was erected, and the epitaph written by
the honourable Horace Walpole. It is as follows:
The
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5S6 HISTORY AND SUftTEY OF
The grave, great teacher, to a level brings
Heroes and beggars, galley slaves, and kings.
But Theodore this moral learo'd ere dead, ^
Fate pour'd its lessons on his living head, >
' Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread. ^
Behind the gardens of Lei€ester4iouse^ where
Lisle*street now runs, was a military yard, esta*
blished by Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I.
It was afterwards used as %. place of exercise for the
Middlesex and Westminster Trained-bands«
'Farther north was Gerard-house, part of which is
still remaining. It was the residence of Gerard,
Earl of Macclesfield.
Soho^ or KingVsquare, was built in the reign of
Charles II. It is of considerable extent, with a
garden in the middle enclosed with iron rails. In
the center is a statue of King Charles IL standing
upon a pedestal, placed in the midst of a small
bason ; at his feet lie the representations of the four
principal rivers, the Thames, Trent, liumber, and
Severn. This square was originally called Mon-
mouth-square, in honour of the Duke of Monmouth,
whose mansion stood on tlie south side of it. This
house afterwards came into the possession of Lord
Bateman, by whom it was pulled down, and tbti;
site of it and the gardens covered with a number of
dwelling houses. The name of the square was
probably altered to King-square after tlie downfal
of the duke; which Mr. Pennant, upon the autho-
rity of Samuel Pegge, Esq. says, was changed to
Soho, by the admirers of that unfortunate man, that
being the word of the day at the battle of ^iedge-
moor. On the east side of Soho-square, at the
comer of Sutton-street, is Carlisle-house, celebrated
some years ago as a place of evening entertainment
for the nobility, and gentry; and immediately ad-
joining
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LOVDON aud its evtikoks. ' 597
joining is Bei^eley^house, which is now converted
into a coffee^iouse.
On the south sid^ of Piccadilly is the parish
church of St. James, Westminster.
This is also one of the churches that owes its'rise
to the increase of buildings ; for the church of
St. Martin in the Fields being too small for the
inhabitants, and too remote from those in this
quarter, Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban's, with
other persons of distinction in that neighbourhood,
erected thiS' edifice at the expense of about seven
thousand pounds. It was built in the reign of
King Charles 11. and though a large fabric, was
considered as a chapel of ease to St' Martin's, it
was consecrated in 1684>, and dedicated to St. James,
in compUment to the name of the Duke of York,
and the next year, when that prince had a^ceinded
the throne, the 'district for which it was built
was by act of parliament separated from St
Martin's, and made a distinct parish. The walls
ace brick, supported by rustic quoins of stone ;
and the windows, which are large, are also Closed
with stone. The tower at the west end rises
regularly from the ground to a considerable height,
and is crowned with a neat, well constructed
spire.
In this church is a most beautiful baptismal font,
of white marble, by Grinlyn Gibbons. It is supported
by a column, representing the Tree of the Knowledge
of Good and Evil, on which is the serpent Offering
the fruit to our first parents, who are standing be-
neath. On the font are three pieces of sculpture:
St. John baptizing Christ ; Philip baptizing the Eu-
nuch ; and Noah's Ark, with the dove bearing the
olive-branch.
Over the altar is some exquisite carving in wood,
by the same artist, representing a pelican feeding its
young.
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52S HISTORY AND SURVEY OF
young, between twa doves ; there is abo a veiy cfe-
gant festoon, wrth targe thiit, flowers, and foliage.
The organ was presented to the church by Queen
Mary, in the year. 1691.
This parish is a rectory, in the gift of the Bishop
of London.
Piccadilly, in which this church is situated, ap-
pears to have taken its name from a gaming-house
for the nobility. Lord ( larendon, in his History of
the Rebellion, describes it as " a place called Picka-
diUy (which was a fair house for entertainment, and
gaming,' with handsome gravel walks, with shade,
and where were an upper and lower bowling-green,
whither very many of the nobility and gentry of the
best quality, resorted, both for exercise and conver-
sation).^^ This was in the year iSiO: the street was
completed in the year 1649, as far as^ the present
Berkeley-street. The first good house built in it was
Burlington House; the site of which was chosen by
its noble founder, ^' because he was certain no one
would build beyond him/^ It is on the north side of the
street, and fenced in with a brick wail, about two
hundred and twenty feet in length, in which are
three gates for the admission of carriages. The front
of the house is of stone, and )s remarkable for the
beauty of the design and workmanship. It has two
wings, joined by a circular colonade, of the Doric
order. The front was built by the father of the late
Earl of Burlington, and is more modem than the
house. The apartments are in a fine taste, and the
stair-case painted with great spirit, by Seb. Ricct.
Behind the house is a spacious garden.
Farther west is Devonshire House, built on the
site of the ancient tnansion of the Berkeley ia-
family. It is a modern building, principally of
brick, and, though plain, is very elegant and well-
proportioned. The offices on the wings are properly
subordinate
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IjOHdon and its enviboks. . 599
subordinate to the house, and make a con^stent
whole. The state rooms are reiy rich and magnifi**
cent. The collection ,of pictures is thought fiir su-
perior to any other private collection in the kingdom.
Mere is also an excellent library, and a fine collec-
tion of medals.
Opposite to St. James's church is a place to which
the name of Albany has been lately given, which
extends from Piccadilly to Burlington-cjfardens, a
street so called from the north Wall of the gardens
of Burlington-house forming one side of it. The
front of Albany, in Piccadilly, is formed by two
handsome buildings, between which is a passage into
the court yard of Melbourne-house, late the resi-
dence of His Royal Highness the Duke of York, from
whose second title its name is derived. It is now
converted into a hotel ; and in the gardens, behind,
are two rows of convenient chambers, on a plan nearly
resembling those of the inns of court ; to which there
. are entrances at each end. Between these ranges of
buildings is a long paved passage, covered by a roof^
supported on small pillars; and the entrance to each
door is sheltered from the weather in a similar man-
ner.
'On the north side of Burlington-gardens is Paget*-
house, the town residence of the Earl of Uxbrifdge.
It is a very large building, with a handsome $tone
front, consisting of a rustic basement story, support-
ing a range of lofty pilasters of the Composite order,
crowned with an entablature, above which is a low
balustrade, to conceal the roof.
Between St. James's church and Pall-mall, is St.
James's-square ; in the center of which is a large
oval bason of water, one hundred and fifty feet in its
longest diameter. This square is surrounded, except
on the south side, with exceeding good buildings,
V0L% III. "^ y y some
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530 HISTORY AKU 80AVEY OP
some of which are very elegant; the largest is Nor-
folk-boose, at the south-east corner.
Jennyn-street» and St. AlbanVstreet, on the north
and east sides of the square, take their names from
the Eari of St. Alban's, who was the principal con-
tributor to the foundation of the church, and are
built upon the ground belonging to his house, which
stood near the north end of St. Alban*8-street.
On the south side of that part of Oxford street,
f^hich is within this parish, stands a building called
the Pantheob, erected in the year 1 773) as a place of
evening entertainment for the nobility and gentry;
but which has been principally used, of late years,
for exhibitions, and, occasionally, for masquerades.
It was a superb and beautiful structure, though con-
cealed from public view, except the two entrances,
the principal of which is iu Oxford-street, and the
other in Poland-street.^ After the destruction of the
Opera house, by fire, the subscribers to that esta-
blishment removed the performances to this place;
but, in the month of January, 1793, it shared the
same fate, the interior of it being wholly consumed
by the same destructive element.
A short distance to the south-west is Camaby-
market, built on the site of the west part of a piece
of ground, called the Pest-field, from a lazaretto being
erected there, in the year l66o, for the reception of
persons seized with the plague; some thousands of
those who died in that calamitous year, were interred
in the cemetery, which was in a distant part of the
ground.
Near this is Golden-square, which is very neat,
though small, containing about two acres. The center
of it is encompassed, by a plain iron railing, within
which are grass-plats and gravel walks ; and the whole
is surrounded with handsome and unijform buildings.
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LONDON AND ITS E^^YIRONS* 531
It was originally called Gelding-square, from the sign
of a neighbouring inn.
. West of St. James's parish, is that of St. GeorgeT,
Hanover-square, thechurch of which stands in Great
George-street.
This parish was also taken out of St. Martin's, in
the Fields. The commissioners for building the fifty
new churches, appointed by virtue of an act of par-
liament passed in the reign of Queea Anne, observ*
ing the want of one in this part of the town, on ac-
count of the great increase of buildings and inhabi-
tants, erected this elegantstructure, which was finished
in 1724, and, in compliment to the reigning monarch,
was dedicated to St. George, the Martyr. It has a
plain body, with an elegant portico; the columns,
which are Corinthian, are of a large diameter, and
the pediment has an acroteria, but without further
ornament. It has a tower, which is elegantly adorned
ati the cpmers, with coupled Corinthian columns that
are very lofty; these are crowned with an entablature,
which, at each corher, supports two vases; and over
these, the tower still rises, till it is terminated by a
dome, crowned with a turret, that supports a ball,
over which is a vane.
It is a rectory, the patronage of which is in the
Bishop of London.
The ground oo which this chutch stands was given
by Lieutenant General William Stewart, who also
bequeathed four thousand pounds to the parish,
towards erecting and endowing a charity school.
At the north end of George-street is Hanover-
square, from which the church receives its distinctive
appelli)tion.
Tliis square is so called in compliment to the
present royal family. It contains about two acres of
ground, in the center of which is a garden, enclosed
with rails: the houses, which are built in the modem
taste,
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^33 ' UmOftY AKD SURVEY OF
taste, make an elegant appearance, and are inhabited
by persons of the first distinction. The house in the
south-west comer is^ considered the best piece of
brick-work in the metropolis.
West from Hanover-square is Grosvenor-square,
which is so named from Sir Thomas Grosvenor, its
original proprietor.
The area of this square contains about five acres,
and in the middle is a latge garden, surrounded with
pallisado rails, placed upon a circular dwarf wall.
The garden is laid out into walks, and adorned with
an equestrian statue of King Geoi^ I. gilt, which
stands on a pedestal in the center. The square is sur-
rounded with elegant houses, which, however, are very
far from being uniform; some being of stone, others
of brick and stone, and others of brick (xily. Indeed,
here is the greatest variety of handsome buildings
that is any where to be met with in so small a
compass.
The south end of George street terminates in
Conduit-street, which, with great part of New Bond-
- street, is built upon the site of a field, formerly called
Conduit-mead, from one of the conduits which
supplied this part of the town with w6ter.
In Conduit street is a chapel, called Trinity-chapel,
the history of which is very remarkable. It was
originally a wooden •field-chapel, erected by James^
II. and fixed upon wheels," for the purpose of being
conveyed wherever bis majesty went ; it being fitted
up for his private masses. In the year 1 686, it was
in his camp, at Hounslow-heath, where it remained
until sometime after the Revolution, when it was
, removed, and placed near the north efid of Old Bond-
street. Here it remained, and was used as a chapel
by the neighbouring inhabitants, until the year 1716,
when it was demolished, and the present building
'erected for the same use.
From
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^ LOMDOK AND IT8^ ENVIRONS. 563
Fiom the west end of Conduit- street, is a street
called Bruton-street, leading into Berkeley-square,
which derives its name from its vicinity to the former
mansion of Lord Berkelev, of Stratton.
This square contains about three acres of ground,
laid out in the form of a toBff parallelogram. It is
surrounded with very elegant buildings; and in the
center of it is an equestrian statue of his present
Majesty, erected by Her Royal Highness the Princess
Amelia. The whole of the south side of it is occupied
by the magnificent mansion and gardens of the Mar-
quis of Lansdown, which are separated from the
square by a brick wall.
- On Hay- hill, at the south-east comer of this square,
a skirmish took place, in the year 1654', between ti
party of insurgents, under Sir Thomas Wyat, and a
cletach!tiefit from the royal army, in wh'ich the former
were repulsed. After the subsequent defeat and
capture of Sir Thontas, at Ludgate, he was executed^
and his head set upon a gallows, at this place ; and ^
three of his associates were hung in chains near their
leader.
West of Berkeley*square is May-fair, formerly an
open space, whereon a fair was held annually, in the
month of May, but now covered with a chapel, several
streets, and a small market, called Shepherd's-market.
On the north side of May- fair is/^'hesterfield-house,
an elegant structure built by the late Earl of Ches-
terfield, from whom it derives its name. It consists
of a main body with detached wings, connected by
a very beautiful colonade, the entablature of which
is crowned with an attic balustrade and pedestals
above each column, on which are placed elegant
vases. 1 his is one of the very few buildings in
London, which M- Grosley allows to be equal to
the hotels of the nobility in Paris. See his Tour
to London^ vol, I. p. 49.
Thdt
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5y+ HISTORY- AND SURVEY OF
TJiat part of Piccadilly which is in this parish,
was formerly called Portugal-street. It is only t)uilt
Oil the north side, the other being formed by the
wall and railing of the Green Park. This row of
houses contains several very handsome buildings,
and is terminated by the magnificent mansion of
Lord Bathurst ; behind which is a pleasant gardea,
separated by a dwarf stone wall and iron railing
from Hyde-park.
At the €fud of Piccadilly, on the south side of the
road leading to Kensington, stands St. George's Hos-
pital.
This undertaking was set on foot, in the year
17iJJ, by some gentlemen who had been concerned
in a charity of a siu)ilar description in Chapel- street,
Westminster. But the house in which that institu-
tion bad been carried on, being old and ruinous, it
was found necessary to remove, when a conaderable
number, but not the majority, gave the preference
to this building, which had been the residence of
Lord Lanesboruugh, who died there in 1724, but
was then vacant. Having determined upon tliis spot,
and being supported by the medical department, the
minority separated from the old institution, and siv
licited subscriptions for thei mew establishment, with
such zeal, that in less than three nK)nths, the wings
were built and in a condition to receive patients.
This hospital enjoys a fine situation, and has all
the benefit of a clear and pure air. It is a very neat
building, and though it is extremely plain, yet is not
devoid of ornament. It has two small wings, and a
large front, with only one^door, which is in the mid-
dle, and to which there is an ascent by a few steps.
On the top of this part of the building is a pediment
raised above the rest of the edifice; and under this
ornament is a stone with an inscription, expressing
the noble use to which this stiucture is applied.
Hyde
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XONDOK AND ITS SNVI&ONS. 533
Hyde Park, a considerable part of which is in
this parish, is a royal demesne, at the west extremity
of the metropolis, extending, between the great
western road on the south side, and the mad to
Oxford on the north, to Kensingtcm. It is part of
the ancient manor of Hida, which belonged to the
monastery of St. Peter, at Westminster, till, in the
reign of Henry VIII. it became the property of the
crown. It was originally much larger than it is at
present, having been reduced since the survey in
1652, when it contained six hundred and twenty
acres, by inclosing Kensington-gardens, and by grants
of land, between I Jyde-park Corner and Park-lane, for.
building on.. According to a suiTey taken in the
year 1790, its present extent is three hundrdd and.
ninety-four acres, two roods, and thirty-eight poles*
The scenery of this park is very pleasing, and its
natural beauties will be greatly heightened, when
the plantations made in it lately have reached ma-
turity. The Serpentine River, at the west end, is a
fine sheet of water, formed by Queen Caroline, in
the year 1730, by enlarging the bed of the stream,
which taking its rise to the north-west of Bayswater,
on the Uxbridge road, passes through Kensington-
gardens and this park, and falls into the Thames, near
Ranelagh.
On the north side of the Serpentine River is a
cluster of houses for the keepers and deputy rangers
of the park, which, being built on the edge of a
grove of tall oaks, forms a pleasing and picturesque
object in the landscape. The one nearest the river
is built of timber and plaster, and is of considerable
antiquity. It was known by the name of the Cake-
house, in the beginning of the last century, and
probably much earlier. In the garden belonging to
this house, is the building erected by the Humane
Society, as a receiving-house for those who are un-
fortunately drowned in the neighbouring river.
1 * At
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6$6 HISTOBY AND 8URTEY Of
At the north-west corner of this park is a very
beautiful inclosed eminence, called Buckden-hilh .
which being only separated from Kensington -gardens
by a haha, appears, at a distance, to be a part of it.~
On the decHvity of this hill is the grove of oa^Ls men*
tioned before, in which are two medicinal springs;
the one, a slight chalybeate, is drank as a tonic,, but
its virtues ought probably to be attributed to the
exercise tal^en in going thither ; the other is reputed
a specific in some disorders of the eyes. ' There is a
foot-path across this hill to Kensington-gardens.
On the south side of the park are very handsome
barracks for the Royal Horse-guards; and on. this
side are two carriage roads to Kensington ; one of
which is better known by the name of Rotten-row.
These have become the resort of the fashionable
world, instead of the Ring, and are as much fre-
quented, especially on Sundays.
The open part of the park was, till lately, used for
the field- day!» and reviews of the horse and foot-
guards, and also for those of the volunteers, by
which the sward of it was so much injured, that it
had become a dry sandy plain, with scarcely a ves-
tige of verdure. At present, however, these exer-
cises are forbidden, and the surface of it is sown
with grass seeds, and covered with the mud taken
from the reservoir at the lower part of the Serpentine
River, .which will restore it to its pristine beauty.
Park-lane, on the east side of Hyde Park, contains
many handsome modern l)uildings, which, from their
situation, oommand an extensive and very agreeable
prospect.
END OF VOL. m.
Printed by Dewick and Ctarkci
Aldemate-tcreet.
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