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HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY
OF THK
CITY OF YORK;
AND THE
EAST RIDING OP YORKSHIRE;
EHBRACINa
A OENEEAL EEVIEW OF THE EABLT HISTORY OF GBEAT BRITAIN,
AND A GENERAL BISTORT AND DESCRIPTION OF
THE CODNTY OF TOBK.
BY J. J. SHEAHAN AND T. WHELLAN.
IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. I.
BEVERLEY:
PRINTED FOR THE PUBUSHEHS, BY JOHN GREEN. MARKET-PLACE.
PREFACE.
In presenting tbis work to the numerous subscribers, it is deemed un-
nocess&iy to expatiate on the value and utility of works of this nature. To
all classes a well digested and £Euthfully compiled Histoiy and Topography
of their own District must be an useful and interesting acquisition. " For a
people to be ignorant of their own history, and the scenes and circumstances
amid which they have sprung, is degrading in the extreme," says a recent
writer,** and is not unfrequently productive of evil. It is only a necessary
wisdom to be able to r^ate the early history of the locality in which Provi-
dence has placed us; to know its peculiarities; and to have marked its
progress.'* "The study of History, and particularly that which is Local,''
writes an eminent authority, " may be numbered among the most important
pursuits of man,**
The arrangement of the first volume of the present work embraces a
General Review of the Early Histoiy of Great Britain, and the ancient
kingdom of Northumbria, with much useful information of a miscellaneous
character ; a General History and Description of the County of York, which,
from its extent, opulence, and commercial importance, holds a distinguished
rank among the great divisions of this kingdom ; and which, in fact, is more
extensive and populous than many independent states, and may be considered
an epitome of all that is interesting in England : also, a History of the vener-
able City of York, with its glorious Minster, and numerous antiquities ; and
of that ancient appendage to the city, the Ainsty Wapentake, including the
town and interesting neighbourhood of Tadcaster.
The second volume contains concise Histories, and a Topographical Sur-
vey, of the important Town and Port of Kingston-upon-Hull ; and of all tho
Towns, Parishes, &c., in the East Riding of Yorkshire, including Beverley,
Bridlington, Howden, <&c., and the border towns of Malton and Selby.
IV PREFACE.
In preparing tlie work for the press, all possible care bas been taken to
avoid the errors, and profit by the experience, of former writers; the best
topographical authorities only have been consulted, and all irrelevant matter,
which would have augmented the size of the work, without adding to its
usefulness, excluded — whilst nothing was rejected which was really impor-
tant. And, to secure authenticity, the most unremitting endeavours have
been used ; every parish and township in the district has been visited for
the purpose of collecting or revising the local information on the spot; and
the discharge of this duty has been attended with much more labour and
expense than was at first anticipated. It is, therefore, presumed that the
work will be found as accurate as is compatible with the vast body of matter,
and the diversity of subjects compressed within its pages.
The Statistical matter is chiefly extracted from the Parliamentary Reports
of Population, &c, ; and the acreage of each place is mostly taken firom the
Parliamentaiy Return of the Census of 1851, which, though it frequently
differs from the local estimated extent, is the surest source.
An expression of gratitude is here most justly due to the several Clergy-
men and Gentlemen, who have kindly aided the work by their corrections
and valuable literary contributions ; and to the general body of the Subscri-
bers the volumes are very respectfully dedicated.
Beverley, November ^ 1866.
Intrtjf I0 M, I.
(Topographiedl Aecountt are given of the Names of Places in Italies.)
Abbess HUda, 80
Abbeys — See Monasteries
Aborigines of Great Britain, 87 ; character
and description of, 38 ; religion of, 39
AcoMter Malbis Parish^ 645
Aeaster Setby Township, 648
Aeomh Parish, 649
Agricaltaral Statistics of England, 6; So-
cieties and Fanners' Clubs, 8
Albion, derivation of, 38
Alcuin, 291, 463, 634
^dborough, the ancient Isurium, 306
Aldby, near Stamford Bridge, 84
Ainstj Wapentake, 643
Aire, River, 82
Alectas proclaimed Emperor, 59
Alfired the Great divides the kingdom, 08
Ancient Britons snbmit to the Bomans,
and adopt their cnstoms, 53
Anglo-Danish Period, 05
Anglo-Saxon Period, 73
Anglo-Saxon Kings — ^Alfred the Great, 08 ;
Athelstan, 08; Edmund, 100; Edgar,
101; Ethelred, 101; Edward the Con-
fessor, 102; Harold, 108
Anffram Township, 667
Anlaffs fleet enters the Humber, 00
Antiquities of Yorkshire, 34
AppUUm Roebuck Township, 661
Arbor-Low (Peak of Derby), 40
Archdiocese of York, 870
Area of the Wold district, 4
Aries, Council of, 68
Armies, mode of assembling, 135
Ashham-Bryan Parish, 651
Askham-Riehard Parish, 652
Askeme Springs, 85
Athelstan, King, establishes the kingdom ;
bis death, 99
Atmospherical phenomena, 274
Augustine, St., created Archbishop of Can-
terbury, 80
Aurelius Ambrosius, 75
A woman crucified by her daughter, 257
Barbarous customs of the English, 150
Barony, description of, 116
Bathing places, principal, 10
Battle Abbey, Roll of, HI
BatUes— Near York, 75, 07, 102, ^13; at
Coningsborough, 75; Mount Badon, 76;
Hatfield, 86; Winmoor, 80; Bromford,
00; Chester, 100; Fulford, 104; Stam-
ford Bridge, 105; Senlac, commonly
called Hastings, 108; York, 120; near
York, 121 ; on Cuton Moor ("Battle of
the Standard"), 124; at Falkirk, 132;
Bannockbum, 135 ; Myton-on-Swale,
137; Boroughbridge, 137; Byland Ab-
bey, 140 ; Nevill's Cross, 143 ; Bramham
Moor, 149; St. Albans, 152; Bamet
Heath, 154; Towton Field, 156; Bamet,
168 ; Tewkesbury, 168 ; Bosworth Field,
171; Stoke, 174; Flodden Field, 181;
Eineton, or Edge Hill, 234; Tadcaster,
235; Wetherby, 236; Selby, 240; and
Marston Moor, 244
Bedem, derivation of, 471
Bells, invention and use of, 418
Bemicia, kingdom of, 76
Beverley and Barmston Drainage, 5
Beverley, King Charles I. at, 282
Bible, first complete version published in
England, 180; indiscriminate use of,
195
Biekerton Township, 655
BUbrough Parish, 653
Bilton Parish, 654
Bishops committed to the Tower, 229
Bishopthorpe Parish^ 657
VI
INDEX.
Black Hamilton, 10; derivation of the
name, 12
Boadicea, Queen of the Jceni, 46
BoltonPercy Parish, 659
Boroughbridge burnt by the Scots, 136
Boiton Spa, 688
Bramham Parish, 682
Bridges of stone first built in England, 364
Bridlington Chalybeate Spring, 35
Brigantes, the metropolis of, 42; Cortis-
mandua their Queen, 45 ; Venusius be-
comes their chief, 46 ; subjugation of the
tribe, 53
British Kings — Ambrosius, 64 ; Arthur, 64,
76, 312; Vortigem, 73; Ochta and Abi-
sa, 76 ; Ebraucus, the supposed founder
of York, 289
British Remains — tumuli, barrows, crom-
lechs, (fee, 46 and 47; corslet of gold
found in a barrow, 52 ; urns, 52 ; canoes,
war chariots, (fee, 53
Bruce, David, taken prisoner, 144
Burgundy, Duchess of, instigates rebellion,
176
Calder, River, 33
Caledonians, 38
Canal^ of Yorkshire, 33
Canute's reproof to his courtiers, 313
Capitation tax, 144
Caracalla murders Geta, 50
Caractacus, Chief of the SilureSf 45
Carausius, Emperor, 59
Cassiterides, or the Tin Islands, 37
Castles or Fortresses, ancient, 34; at Bam-
borough, 87; Aldby, 84; York, 90, 337;
Tadcaster, 671 ; number of existing re-
mains of Castles, 343
Cathedrals burnt, 123
CatQe, Teeswater and Holdemess, breed
of, 16
Cattertan Township, 675
Caves of Yorkshire, 86
Caxton introduces Printing, 180
Celtic sepulchres and monuments, 47
Centenarians in England, 18
Chantries, how founded, 187
Christian Festivals, origin of, 407
Christianity introduced into Britain, 61;
re-introduced by St. Augustine, 80, 82
Civil government, titles, &c., 282
Classes, distinction of, preserved by Wil-
liam the Conqueror, 114
Cleveland hills and vale, 18
CUfford-cum-BosUm Toumship, 686
Clifibrd's Tower at York, 888
Cock, Biver, 160
Coffee introduced into England, 361
CoUan Toumship, 662
Commerce of Yorkshire, 20
Constantino the Great bom, 60, 292 ; as-
sumes the imperial purple at York, and
embraces Christianity, 60
Constantius, Emx>eror, 60
Copmanthorpe Chapelry, 663
Copper Mines, 17
Coronation stone and chair, 132, 146
Corpus Christi Plays, 574
Courts of Exchequer, &c., removed from
York, 133; reinstated in York for six
months, 136 ; again transferred to York,
146
Cowthorpe Oak, 657
Cranmer, Archbishop, 184 ; his death, 204
Cromwell, Oliver, at the siege of York,
241 ; his death, 259 ; his effigies burnt
at York, 262
Danes invade England, 95 ; their massacre
on St. Brice's Day, 100
Dance Maine, 52
Danish Kings — Ringsidge, 98 ; Eric, 101 ;
Sweyne, 102, 313; Canute, 102, 313;
Harold and Hardicanute, 102
Derwent, River, 32
Devil's Arrows, 34, 52
Devil's -Den (Cromlech), 52
Dialects north and south of Humber, 80 ^
Diefyr, or Deira, kingdom of, 76
Dissolution of Monasteries, 181
Disputes about the Festivid of Easter, 90
Domesday Book, its origin, ^c, 112
Don, River, 33
Drainage — Beverley and Barmston, 5 ;
Holdemess, 5 ; Keyingham, 6 ; Hertford
and Derwent, 6; Spalding Moor and
Walling Fen, 6
Drake, the historian, 639
Dreadful executions of the nobility, 189
Dringhotises Township, 650
Dropping Well at Knaresborough, 35
Druids, 39 ; their sacrifices, 40 ; their civil
government, 41 ; they oppose the Ro-
man invaders, 42
Druidical Circles, 50
Ducking or Cucking Stool, 388
Dwarf Rose in the Field of Towton, 161
Eastern Moorlands, 11
East Riding of Yorkshire— situation of, 2;
climate of, 6 ; principal towns of, 3 ; is
famous for breeding horses, 7 ; its min-
eral productions, 8 ; marshes and warp-
land, 9
Edward the Confessor names his successor,
107
INDEX.
Vll
Egbert unites the kingdoms of the Hep-
tarchy, 94 «
Egfiid, King, buried at Driffield, 92
Ely, Bishop of, heads an army, 187
England, the Island of Saiats, 80
England submits to the Conqueror, 122
Ermine Street (Roman road), 70
Esk, Riyer, 83
Ethelred flies the kingdom, 102
I, Ancient^ 852
Fair Rosamond, 895
FLto Whispering Knights, 49
Flamborough promontory, 3
Fleming, Nicholas, Mayor of York, 187
Flood, great, at Bipponden, 2tf 7
Foss, River, 88
Fosseway (Roman road), 69, 70
Franchise of Yorkshire, 86
Freeburgh Hill, 12
Free Chapels, how founded, 187
Fridstol, or freed stool, ancient, 876, 377
Galilee Porches in ohurches, 876
Galtres, ancient Forest of, 83, 851
Gasooigne, Chief Justice, refuses to pass
sentence of death on Archbishop Scrope,
148
Gayesion, Piers de, 134, 135
General History of Yorkshire, 37
Gent, Thomas, the historian, 640
Geoffrey Plantagenet, Archbishop of York,
129
Geo£5!ey of Monmouth, the historian, 289
Geology of Yorkshire, 20
Giggleswick Scar, 35
Glass windows first introduced, 407, 440
Glo'ster, Duke of; his conduct at the death
of Edward V., 169 ; is made Protector,
and crowned King, 170
Goodmanham, Pagan Temple at, 84
Graham's Dyke, 54
Gregory the Great, Pope — his character,
79; he resolves on the conversion of
England, 80
Qrimstcn Township, 678
Guilds or Fraternities, 198
Guy Fawkes, a Yorkshireman, 637
Hadrian, Emperor, arrives in Britain, 54 ;
resides at York, 291
Hadrian's Great Wall, 55
Hainault soldiery massacred, 142
Harcdd II. crowned, 108; his death and
burial, 109
Harrald Hadrada invades England, 104
Harrogate Springs, 85
Hazlewood Hall or Castle, 676
Healaugh Penrith, 664
Hengist and Horsa invited to Britain, 73
Hengist defeats the Picts and Scots, 75
Hermit of Knaresborough, 635
Hertford and Derwent Drainage, 6
Hestay Towfuhip, 668
Hide of land, description of, 116
Hinguar and Hubba, 90 ; they destroy the
Holdemess coast, 97
Holdemess Drainage, 5; cattle, 7
Holdgate, or HolgaUf Township^ 663
Holy Isknd, 87
Horrible brutalities of the Danes, 97
Horse Racing, 632
HuU, River, 31 ; change of its course, 32
Hull, a maritime town, 138
Hulpit and Hunpit holes, 36
Humber, River, 28
Hurtlepot, Ginglepot, and Donk, Caves, 36
HiUUm-Waandeiley TowMhip, 667
loknild Street (Roman road), 70
Independents, the, rob the churches, 256
Indulgences, definition of, 408
Inhabitants of Yorkshire, their character,
36
Instance of filial afiection, 236
Insurrection of the northern CathoUcs,
207
Insurrection in the East Riding, 200
Insurrection of the old Parliamentary fac-
tion, 262
Ireland peopled, 38
Isurium (Aldborough), 42
Jack Straw and Wat Tyler's rebellion, 144
Jenkins, Henry, 18, 260
Jews, the number of, in England, 356
Jones, Paul, the Anglo-American bucca-
neer, 271
Julius Agricola, 52
JuUus Cffisar, invasion of, 43
Keyingham Drainage, 6
Kingston-upon-Hufi, port of, 20
King, origin of the name, 83, 353
King Arthur defeats the Saxons ; his mur-
der, and the discovery of his remains,
76,77
King Edwin's daughter baptized by St.
Paulinus, 83
King Edwin baptized by St. Paulinus, and
his glorious reign, 85 ; his death, 86
King Richiurd I. — his coronation, 127 ; his
imprisonment in Austria, 129
King John visits York, 130
King Alexander I. of Scotland married at
York, 180
\1X1
INDEX.
King Alexander II. of Scotland married at
York. 131
King Edward I. at York, 131 ; his death,
133
King Edward II., 134 ; his murder, 141
King Edward III. — ^his glorious reign and
marriage, 142
King Biohard II. — ^his accession, 144 ; de-
position and murder, 146
King Henry IV. — his accession, 147 ; death,
150
King Henry V. visits York and Beverley,
150; his death, 151
King Henry VI. — ^his character, 151 ; falls
into the hands of the Yorkists, 164;
again made King, 167 ; confined in the
Tower, and murdered, 169
King Edw. IV. proclaimed, 155 ; crowned,
162 ; again crowned, 164 ; his imprison-
ment and escape, 167; is again pro-
claimed King, 167 ; his death, 160 ; his
family, 169
King Edward V. murdered in the Tower,
170
King Richard III., 170 ; slain at the battle
of Bosworth Field, 172
King Henry VII. — ^his coronation, mar-
riage, &c., 172
King Henry VIII. receives the title of De-
fender of the Faith, 181 ; visits York-
shire, 192 ; his death, 197
King Edward VI.— his death, 201
King James VI.'s accession, 211 ; his death,
217
King Charles I. — ^history of his disastrous
reign, 217; is refused admittance into
Hull, 230 ; his person delivered up by
the Scots, 257; is tried and executed,
259
King Charles II. proclaimed, 261; his
death, 264
King James II. — ^his accession, 264
Kirkhy.Wharfe ParUh, 677
Kirk- Hammer ton Parish, 665
Kits-Coty House, 48
Knapton I'oumship, 651
I^ncaster, Duke of, lands at Kavenspum,
146
Levellers, the, their fanaticism, 257, 258
Library of York Cathedral, 312
lindisfame, Isle of, 87 ; church destroyed
by the Danes, 93
Lollius Urbicus, 56
Londesborough, King Edwin's residence,
84
Long Manton Parish, 666
Long Meg and her Daughters, 49
Long Parliament, the, 227
Lothbric, a Danish General, legend of, 96
Malham Core, 36
Malo Cross, 71
Mansions, ancient, 35
Mark, value of, 129
Mary, Queen of Scots, 210
Massacre of the Jews, 126
Maxima Csesariensis, 54
Mechanics' Institute, Yorkshire Union of«
617
Middlethorpe Township, 664
Mile, derivation of, 55
Mineral Springs in Yorkshire, 35, 688
Minster, derivation of the name, 410
Mistletoe, a sacred plant with the Druids,
40
Monastic Institutions in Yorkshire, 35
Moncuteries, suppression of, 181; annual
revenues, 185
FHaries— York, 491, 492, 405
Nunneries— York, 406, 556 ; Tadcaster, 672
Priori<?«— York, 490, 497 ; Sinningthwaite,
654; Nun-Appleton, 661; Heaulaugh
Park, 664
iro«ptta/»— York, 471, 497, 498, 499, 500
Moor Monkton Parish, 667
Mountains in Yorkshire — Roseberry Top-
ping, 10 ; Black Hamilton, Ac. 10, 12 ;
Stow Brow, 11; Howardian Hills, 13;
Pennygant, Wamside, and Ingleborough,
19
Multangular Tower at York, 203, 334
Nahum Chapelry, 667
Nennius, the historian, 280
Newcastle, Earl of, created a Marquis, 230
Nice and Sardica, Councils of, 64
Nidd, Biver, 33
Norman Period, 107
Northern Assize Circuit. 36
North of England divided into Shires, Arc,
101
Northallerton burnt by the Scots, 136
North Biding — Situation and extent, 10,
1 1 : principal towns, 10 ; climate, 13 ;
soil, 14 ; agricultural and woodlands, 15 ;
cattle, sheep, and horses, 16 ; minerals
and lead mines, 17; longevity of its in-
habitants. 18
Northumbria, Earls of, 102
Northumberland, Earl of, murdered. 175
Northumbrian dynasty, extinction of, 9^
Northumbrian kingdom conquered by the
Danes, 07 ; reduced to an Earldom, 101 ;
divided into Shires, 119
Nunneries, first instances of, 496
INDKX.
IX
OctETias crowned at York, Gl
Onse, Jdrer, 28 ; etymology of, 290
Oxton Toumihip, 675
Pagan Temple profaned by Coifi, 84
Pall, or PalUam, of the Archbishops, 388
Paiisi, tribe of, 42
Parliainent, first, held in York, 125 ; deri-
Tation of the name, 125; other early
Parliaments, 131, 138, 139, 143
Panlinos and Golfi discnss religion, 84
Pauperism floods the conntry, 185
Penda, King of Mercia, 85, 89
Pestilence, called the "Black Death," 144
Petoaria and Portns Felix (British Towns ) ,
42
Phcenician Merchants visit the Tin Is-
lands, 37
Pickering Beck, 13
Picts and Soots, 68
Pilgrimage of Grace, insurrection, 189
Pli^e, the, 146, 262
Pope Adrian sends Legates to England, in
A.D. 785, 93
PoppUUm — Upper and Nether^ 669
Population of England armed, 125, 139
Population of several towns in the reign of
Edward III., 144
Ports of Yorkshire, 20
Price of provisions in 1533, 181
Prince Charles Stuart, the Pretender, 267
Prince Bupert, 242
Printing Press, the first at York, 180
Promontories, 3
Protestants and Catholics executed for
heresy, 195
Puritans, the, 207
Quakers, origin of the name, 549
Quarter Sessions, where held, 36
Queen Anne's Bounty, 374
Queen of Scotland visits York, 178
Queen Elizabeth's accession, 205; her
death, 211
Queen Henrietta's letter to Charles I., 237;
her death, 259
Queen Margaret's adherence to her party,
162 ; her captivity and death, 169
Queen Mary's accession, 201; her mar-
riage, 203 ; her death, 205
Queen Victoria's visit to York, 280; to
Kingston-upon-HuH, 282
BaUways, 34 *
Bavenspnme, Bolingbroke lands at, 146 ;
Edward IV. debarks at, 167
Bebellion, the, of 1745, 267
BebeUion in Yorkshire, 175
Reformation in Religion, 182; new liturgy
compiled, 199
Reform Bill, effects of, in Yorkshire, 86
Relics found on Towton Field, 161
Religious edifices profiemed during the
Commonwealth, 458
Religious Houses, 35 ; suppression of, 181
Richmond, Earl of, lands at Idilford-Ha-
ven, 171
Riding, origin of the term, 114
Rivers of Yorkshire, 27 to 93
RoUrich Stones, 49, 52
Roman Invasion, 43
Roman Period, 53
Roman Colonies, Stipendiary Towns, Latin
Cities, 66
Roman government of Britain, 66
Romans, the, relinquish Britain, 68
Roman modes of sepulture, 58, 298
Roman sepulchral and other remains, 34 ;
at York, 293
Roman roads, 60, 72
Roman Stations — Eboiacum, 54; Delgo-
vicia, Dunus Sinus, Danum, Ac, 72;
Derventio, 72, 83 ; Calcaria, 670
Roman Encampments, 73
Roman Villa at CoUingham, 690
Roseberry Topping, 10, 1 1
Rosedale Iron works, 17
Ruforth ParUh, 670
Sanctuaries abolished, 200
Sanctuary, the privilege of, 375
Saxons, the — their origin, manners, &c.,
73 ; invited to Britain by Vortigem, 74 ;
their conquest of the Britons, 77 ; their
religion, 78; tiUes of honour, 115;
names of divisions of land, 116
Saxon Heptarchy, 77 ; how composed, 81 ;
extinction of, 94
Saxon Kings—Ida, Ella or Alia, Ethelfrid,
and Edwin, 82; Ceadwalla, Oswald,
Adelwald, OBwy, Oswin, and Oswio, 86 ;
Alcbfrid,90; Egfrid, 91 ; Osred, Ceonred,
Ccel\%Tilf, 92; Mol-Edilwold, Alchred,
Alfwold, and Ethelbred, 93; Osbald,
Eardulf, and Egbert, 04; Osbert and
Ella, 95 ; Egbert, 08
Saxon Remains at York, 311
Saxton Pariah, 680
Scarborough besieged by the nobles, 134;
burnt by the Scots, 136
Scarborough burnt by the Danes, 104
Scarborough CasUe, attempt to seize it, 203
Scarborough Springs, 35
ScarthingweU, 681
Scots pass from Ireland to Scotiand, B8
Scotland, ancient inhabitants of, 68
INDKX.
Soots, their barbarous invasions, 128
Scottish Regalia removed to England, 132
Scottish League and CJovenant, 224
Scotch, the, in arms against Ghas. I., 224
Sorope*s, Archbishop, rebellion, 147; his
execution, 148
Sea coast, extent of, 10
Sepulchral (called Druids') Circles, 48
Severus, Emperor, arrives in Britain, 56 ;
his conquests and death, 57; fUneral
obsequies at York, 58
Severus Hill, near York, 58
Ship-money, tax imposed, 223
Sieges — Portsmouth, 232; York com-
mences, 241; ends, 251; Leeds, 236;
Pontefract, 253; Sheffield, 254; Scar-
borough and Skipton, 255 ; Carlisle, 268
Simnel, Lambert, an impostor, 173 ; is pro-
claimed King in Dublin, 174
Sistuntii, tribe of, 42
Siward, Earl of Northumbria, 102
Sixth Conquering Legion, 55, 69
Skipton burnt by the Scots, 187
Skipbridge HamUt, 669
Skirlaw, Bishop of Durham, 411
Spalding Moor and Walling Fen Drainage,
6
Spencer, Hugh de, favourite of Edwsrd
in.. 138
Spume Promontory, 8
St Ceaddo, or Chad, Archbishop of York,
384
St Edward the Confessor, 102, 103
St Edwin (King), St Ethelburge (Queen),
384
St John of Beverley, 388
St Oswald (King), 87
St Oswald, Archbishop of York, 802
St Paulinus, Archbishop of York, 80, 382,
384
St. Thomas of Canterbury — ridiculous
trial of, 103
St Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, 90, 385
St William, Archbishop of York, 393
Staith, origin of the name, 360
Steeton Township, 682
Stonehenge on Salisbury Plain, 49, 50
Stoupe Brow, or Stow Brow, 11
Stuarts, the last of the, 405
Sunk Island recovered from the Humber,
8,9
Sutton-cum-Hazlewood Tototuhipj 675
Swale, River, 27; St Paulinus baptizes
immense numbers in it, 28, and 80
Sweating Sickness, 200
Sweyn's Danish fleet enters the Humber,
102
Synods held in Northumbria, (a.i>. 785) 98
Tadcaster Tovm and ParUh, 670
Tariff of prices at York in 1314, 185
Tees, River, 27
Temple of Bellona at York, 292
Temple of Serapis at York, 295
Theodoras, Archbishop of Britain, 91
Thirty-nine Articles, the, published, 806
Thornton Force and Scar, 35
Thorp'Areh ParUky 691
Thrave, meaning of, 165
Thunder and rain storm, 4
Thurston, Archbishop of York, 128
Tides, Spring, at York and Hull, 29
Tithings, why named, 115
Tithes, origin of, 373
Tockwith Township, 656
Tonnage and Poundage levied, 221
i Tosti's fleet enters the Humber, 104
Tournament at York, 1 31
Tournament between two English and two
foreign Knights, 149
Towton Township, 682
Turpin, the highwayman, 513
Tyler's, Wat, rebellion, 145
Wade's Causeway, 71
Wages of workmen in the 14th century,
411
Wall of Antoninus, 54
Waltheof, Earl of Northumbria, 101, 120,
122
Walton Parish, 692
Wapentake, origin of the term, 114
Warbeck, Perkiu, an impostor, 176 ; is pro-
claimed King, by the title of Richard
lY., and is executed for treason, 178
Warwick, the great Earl, his character and
death, 168
Wars of the Roses, 151
War, Great Civil, cause and progress of, 217
Wastes of Yorkshire, 20
Waterfalls of Yorkshire, 85
Wailing Street (Roman road), 70
Wayland Smith's Cave, 48
Weathercote Cave, 36
Wesley, Rev. John, 547
West Biding — situation and prindpsl towns
of, 18 ; soil, minerals, and manufactures,
19
WighiU Parish, 693
Wilstrop Township, 066
William Duke of Normandy prepares to
invade England, 107; is sumamed the
tlonqueror, 111 ; his harsh treatment of
the English, 112
Wharfe, River, 82
Wolds of Yorkshire, 3 ; soU of, 5 ; rabbit-
warrens and sheep-walks, 7
IKDEX.
XI
UUeskelf Towfuhip, 660
Ure or Yore, Biver, 28
Tales— -of York, 18; of Derwent, 4;
Cleveland, drc, 18
Venerable Bede, 68
Vennsina, Chief of the Brigantes, 46
Yicioria Begia (Water Lily), 616
Volmitii, tribe of, 42
Yortimer defeats the Saxons, 75
Yos^das Care, 86
of
Yorkshire— situatLon and Ridings of, 1 ;
area and population of, 2 ; Wolds of, 8 ;
Carrs and Levels of, 5 ; agriculture of,
6 ; wastes of, 20 ; ports of, 20 ; commerce
and geology of, 20 ; general history of,
37 ; how divided after the Conquest, 118 ;
is famed for its battle fields, 218
Yorkshire, places in, that have given title
to Peers, or have been the capital resi-
dences of Barons, 286
York, Dukes of, 181
York, Earl of, 283
^t €iiu ai
FAOE.
York becomes the Boman Station,
Ehoracum ^ 54
Sixth Conquering Legion arrives . . 55
City besieged by the Britons 56
Emperor Severus resides at York . . 58
Hia death and funeial obsequies. .58, 292
Caracalla murders Geta and his
friends 50
Caransius, a Briton, proclaimed Em-
peror, and his murder 59
Death of the Emperor Constantius*. 60
Constantine the Great — arrives, as-
Bumes the imperial purple at York,
and embraces Christianity ...... 64
King Arthur celebrates the first
Christmas festival in Britain . . 64, 31 2
York seized by the Danes, and hor-
rible sufferings ot the inhabitants 97
The city taken by the Norwegians. . 104
la the rallying point of the North-
umbers 112
The citizens submit to William the
Conqueror 120
City re-taken by ^e Engli^ and
Danes, and parUy burnt by accident 120
Is besieged and burnt bj the Con-
queror 121
Is again burnt (accidentally) in 1137 128
First English Parliament held here
125, 319
The atj risen to eminence ........ 126
Great massacre of the Jews 126, 319
Their horrid fate at York 128
Temporal and spiritual power united 130
King John's visit 130
The city besieged by the Barons.... 180
PAOC.
Henry JII. attends a convocation,
and Alexander I. of Scotland is
married here 130
Alexander 11. of Scotland married
here 131
Visit of Edward 1 131
York a maritime town 183
Fortifications repaired by Edw. II. . 134
Another Parliament held here .... 138
Dreadful aftray with the Hainaulters 142
Visits of Edward II., several Parlia-
ments held here, the city set on
fire by David Bruce 148
Bichard n. confers the title of Ia^
Mayor 145
Dreadful pestilence 144, 146
Mace and Cap of Maintenance pre-
sented to the Corporation 146
Courts removed firom London to York 146
Henry V. visits the city of York .... 150
Prince Edward knighted here 171
Visit of the Princess Margaret .... 178
Churches of York in the time of
Henry V 182
Visit of Henry Vm 192
Catholics put to death here 207
Execution of the Earl of Northum-
berland and others 209
Visits of James VI 211, 216
Visits of his Queen and children . . 215
The Plague 215
Horse race on the river Onse 216
Visits of Charles 1 222, 224
He keeps Easter here 225
He holds a Council at the Deanery. 226
Fixes his head-quarters here 281
Xll
INDKX.
PAOE.
Queen Henrietta at York USQ
Siege of York commences 241
St. Mary's Tower 24a, 337, 479
Surrender of the city 251
Is dismantled of its garrison 257
Cromwell's visit 259
Old Jenkins at York Assizes 260
Charles II. proclaimed, and Crom-
well's effigy burnt at York 201, 262
Visit of James, Duke of York 262
Lamps first hung up here 264
Outrages on the Catholics, \Vm. and
Mary proclaimed, overflow of -the
Ouse, and a great fire at York. . . . 206
Great drought here 266
RebeUion of 1745 268
Visit of the Prince of Hesse 269
Visit of the Duke of Cumberland 269, 349
Visit of the King of Denmark 270
Visit of the Duke of York 270, 271
Corps of volunteers embodied 272
Marquis of Rockingham's funeral . . 273
Prince of Wales and Duke of York
at York races 273
Visit of Charles James Fox 274
Visit of Prince William Frederick of
Gloster and the Earl St. Vincent 275
Mary Bateman, the "Yorkshire
Witch" 276
Visits of the Duke of Sussex, the
Duchess of Kent, Princess Victoria 276
Prince Albert, Duke of Cambridge,
Queen Victoria, (fee, at York .... 277
Boyal Agricultural Society's Show. . 277
Great banquet at Guild Hall 277
Visit of the Queen and Royal family 280
York, Earl and Dukes of 283
Origin of the city of York 289
Etymology of the name 290
Resemblance of York to Rome .... 291
Is the seat of the Roman Emperors 292
Temple of Bellona 292
Roman Remains of sepulchres, tesse-
lated pavements, altars, ware, (fee. 293
Roman Multangular Tower, and Ro-
man Wall 293, 834
Temple of Serapis 295
Roman burial place 298
Saxon remains 311
Churches in York at the Conquest. . 811
Description of York in Domesday . . 314
Houses and population of York in
the time of Edward the Confessor 319
Great Council of the North 320, 343
Topography of the City of York .... 321
Situation of the City 321
Description of the fortifications. . . . 322
PAOK.
Leland's description of York 3215
Restoration of the Walls 324
Circumference of the Ramparts 327
Entrance Gates or Bars 328
Micklegate Bar, 328 ; Bootham Bar,
329; Monk Bar, 330; Walmgate
Barand Barbican, 324, 330; Fisher-
gate Bar and Postern, 331; the
other Posterns 832, 333
Lendal Tower 332
Red Tower 336
Old Baile Hill 337, 362
York CasUe 337, 601
Cliflford's Tower 338
Site of the Prsetorium Palace 343
The Manor Palace 343
Site of Percy's Inn 346
Old Archiepiscopal Palace 347, 460
Lardiner HaU. Duke's HaU 347
Mulberry, or Mulbrai, Hall 349
The Castle Mills 349
Names of Streets, derivation of .... 350
Abbot of St. Mary's fair 352
Jews numerous in York 356
The "Railway King," former resi-
dence of 358
A street named after him 362
First Coffee House in York 361
The New Walk 863
Suburbs and Bridges of York 364
St. William's Chapel 365
Ouse and Foss Bridges 866
Scarborough Railway Bridge 367
Mortality, Cholera 367, 868
Sanitary measures 368
Drainage of the Foss Islands 869
Abolition of intramural interment. . 369
Ecclesiastical affairs 370
Dispute about the Primacy 871
Income of Bishops 872
Dean and Chapter of York 373
Arms of the Cathedral 873
List of the Archbishops 377
list of the Deans 380
Annsds of the Archbishops 381
St. William's entry into York — ^acci-
dent on Ouse Bridge 394
Great feast in honor of Archbishop
Neville's enthronization 398
Cardinal Wolsey 899
Anecdote of Archbishop Mountain . . 402
The Cardinal of York 405
The Cathedral, or Minster 406
The edifice rebuilt 408
Dates of the erection of its parts . . 412
Chantries in the Minster 418
Minster burnt by Martin. 414
n!DXX.
ziii
PAGE.
Another Are in the Minster 417
Musical FestiTals 417
Great bell, ** Peter of York" 418
Description of the Minster 419
The Ladye ChapeUe 433
The stained glass windows 440
I>imen8lon8 of the Minster 446
Comparative magnitade of the Min-
ster 445
The monoments 446
Chapter Hoose, description of .... 455
Dignitaries, Ssc, of the Cathedral . . 459
Minster Yard 460
ComparatiTe capacity for accommo-
dation of the largest charches in
Europe 460
Minster libraiy 461
Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre .... 465
liberty of St. Peter 467
St. William's College 469
The Bedem 470
St. Leonard's Hospital 471
St Mary's Abbey 475
Holy Trinity Prioiy 862, 490
Dominican Friary 491
Franciscan Friary 492
Augustinian Friary 493
Carmelite Friary 495
Benedictine Nunnery 496
St. Andrew's Priory 497
Hospital of St. Nicholas 497
Hospital of St Magdalen 498
Hospital of St Anthony 498
St Anthony's HaU 499
Various reUgious guilds 500
Churchu of York 501
All Saints' Church, North St, 503;
AU Saints, Pavement, 506 ; church
of St Crux, 508; of St Cuthbert,
510; of St Dennis, 511; of St
OUre, 513 ; of St Helen, Stone-
gate, 515 ; of St John, 517 : of St
Lawrence, 518; of St Margaret,
521 ; of St Martin, Coney St, 523 ;
of St Martin, Mioklegate, 526 ; of
St Mary Bishophill Senior, 527;
of St Mary Bishophill Junior, 529 ;
of St Mary, Castlegate, 580 ; of St.
Michaelle-Belfry, 532 ; of St Mi-
chael, Low Ousegate, 534; of St
Sampson, 586 ; of St Saviour, 537 :
of the Holy Trinity, King's Sq.,
539; of the Holy Trinity, Mickle-
gate, 540; of the Holy Trinity,
Goodramgate, 542 ; of St Maurice,
543; of St Paul, 544; and of St
Thomas, 545.
PAGE.
Dissenting Chapels « 546
Catholics 550
Catholic Church of St George .... 552
Chapel of St Wilfrid 554
Catholic fraternities 555
Convent of St Mary 556
Public Schools .'-^St. Peter's, 557;
Holgate's, 558; Training Institu-
tion, 559 ; Yeoman, 559 ; School of
Design, 560; Wilberforce School
for the Blind, 561; Blue Coat,
562; Spinning, 563; WUson's
Charity, 564; Bagged, 564; Dods-
worth's, 565; Haughton's, 565;
National Schools, 565; British,
566; We8leyan,567; Independent,
567; St George's Catholic, 567;
Convent Schools, 568; Sunday
Schools, 568.
AlmshouBeSt or HospitdU: — ^Agar's,
Barstow's, and St. Catherine's, 569 ;
Colton's, Harrison's, and Hewley's,
570; Ingram's, Mason's, and Mai-
son IMeu, 571 ; Middleton's, Mer-
chant Tailors', and Old Maid's,
572; St Thomas's, 573; Thomp-
son's and Trinity Hospital, 575;
Watter's and Wilson's, 576; and
Winterskelfs, 577.
Population, &c., of York 577
Commerce, Trade, ice 579
Markets, Fairs, &c 581
Corporation of York 584
Franchise 589
Freemen's Strays 590
Courts of Justice 591
Gmld HaU 592
Mansion House 594
The Judge's Lodgings 596
Assembly Booms 597
Festival Concert Boom 598
Theatre Boyal 599
Yorkshire Club House 600
The De Grey Booms 601
County Gaol (York Castle) 601
City House of Correction 604
Merchants' Hall 605
Merchant Tailors' and other Halls . . 606
York County Hospital 607
Other Medical Institutions 608
York Lunatic Asylum 609
Betreat Lunatic Asylum 61 1
Pauper Lunatic Asylum 612
Yorkshire Philosophical Society . . 613
The Museum and its contents .... 614
York Institute 620
Yorkshire Architectural Society. ... 621
XIV
INDEX.
FAas.
Yorkshire Naturalists' Club 621
Yorkshire Antiquarian Club 622
Subscription and Select libraries . . 623
Newspapers 623
Railways 624
Gas and Water Works 626, 627
PubUc Baths 627
Banks, Barracks, Jkc 628
PAGE.
York Poor Law Union 630
Penitentiaiy and City Mission .... 690
Model Lod^g House 631
Cemetery 631
Cholera Burial Ground 632
Bacecourse ( Knavesmire) 632
Archery Society 634
Eminent Men connected with York 634
ERRATA.
Page 10, line 3 from the foot of the page, add Withemsea to the Principal Bathing
places.
137, line 20 from the top, read and the Bishop of Ely.
280, first line of the note at foot, Ibr subsequent pages of this Tolumo, read in the
Hcond volume of this history.
239, last line of the note at foot, for subsequent pages of this volume, read see the
history of that town in the second volume of this history,
257, line 10, read, and they contended, Ae.
333, „ 3, of the note, for emerged, read immerged.
865, „ 1, for measures, read measured,
406, fourth line of the note from the bottom, for fiist one meal, read fSast on one
meal.
670. Since the account of Tadcaster was printed, General Wyndham has sold to
Lord Londesborough that portion of his Yorkshire property which is
situated in and around that town.
687, line 24, for shapel, read chapel.
If
tt
tt
»t
tt
tt
tt
tt
if
YORKSHIRE.
TopoaRAPHT.^ — ^This great and noble maritime county, which derives its
tuaae from its chief town, and which is by flar the largest, and in the number
and wealth of its inhabitants, as well as in its natural and artificial produc-
tions, the most considerable and important shire in the kingdom, is situated
nearly in the centre of Great Britain. It is bounded on the N.E. and £. by
the German Ocean; on the S. by the rivers Humber and Trent, which
separate it from Lincolnshire, and by the counties of Nottingham, Derby,
and Chester ; on the W. by Lancashire ; on the N.W. by Westmorland ; and
on the N. by Durham. The general form of the county is that of an irre-
gular quadrangle, with two projecting points at its N.W. and S.E. angles ;
and its extreme points lie between the parallels of 58 d^. 18 min. and 64
deg. 40 min. N. latitude, and between d deg. 40 min. W., and 0 deg. 10 min.
E. lon^tude of the meridian of Greenwich. The circuit of Yorkshire is
about 460 miles ; its length from east to west is 110 miles ; and its breadth
from north to south is 00 miles. It extends in its longest part about ISO
miles, from Spurn Head, at the mouth of the Humber, to Lune Forest,
where it joins Durham and Westmorland, these being its south-eastern and
north-western extremities.
From its great extent this fine English province was, at an early period
of the Saxon dominion, divided into three grand districts called lUdingSt
which, in reference to their relative positions with respect to each other, and
to the city of York, are termed East, West, and North Ridings. The East
Riding, the smallest of the three divisions, is subdivided into seven wapen-
takes ; the West Riding, the largest of the three divisions, is in nine sub-
divisions; and the North Riding has twelve wapentakes, including the
Liberty of Whitby Strand. There is also a small district called the Ainsty
of the dty of York, which, until 1836, was separate from either of the
3
BESCBIPnON OF TOBKSHIBE.
Ridings, but which in that year was annexed to the West Riding. Tork-
shire contains about 6S0 parishes, comprising about 5000 villages and
hamlets ; 1 archiepiscopal city (York) ; 1 episcopal city (Ripon) ; 13 corpo-
rate towns ; 17 parliamentary boroughs ; and 59 market towns. It returns
37 members to parliament, and is divided into 50 Poor Law Unions. It is
in the Northern Circuit ; in the archiepiscopal province of York ; and in the
dioceses of York and Ripon.
Each of the three Ridings has a separate lieutenancy, magistracy, clerk of
the peace, treasurer, and other public officers and courts ; but all of them
are amenable to the superior courts held for the whole county at York Castle,
which stands within the bounds of the city of York. Though the latter
place is a county of itself, holding separate courts of gaol delivery, &c., the
electors of the city unite with the North Riding in the election of Knights of
the Shire, The whole of the East and North Ridings, and a great part of
the West Riding, is chiefly dependent on agriculture ; a large portion of the
latter division is distinguished for extensive manufactures of woollen cloth,
worsted stuff, linen, cutlery, and other hardware.
The area of Yorkshire, according to the latest Parliamentary Report, is
5,983 square miles, or 3,829,S86 statute acres.i' The population of the
county in 1851 was 1,797,995 souls; of which number 89d,749 were males,
and 905,246 females.f
The East Biding, which comprises the south-east part of the county, is
situated between the parallels of 53 deg. 35 min. and 54 deg. 15 min. N.
» The area of each divieion of Yorkshire, and density.
in 1851.
niviaiONS.
Aroa
in 8qo«f«
Mfles
Are*
inStatato
Acres.
Penoiui
toa
Square MDe
Acres
toa
Penon
Inhabited
HoQses to a
Square Mile
Peraons
toa
HoQse.
YoBK City
East Riding
North Ridimo ....
West Riding
4
1.201
2,109
2,669
2,720
768,419
1,350,121
1.708,026
8,542
182
102
496
0-7
3-5
6-3
1-3
1,665
37
21
99
51
4*9
4-8
5-0
f Population of each division of Yorkshire, as enumerated at each census from 1801 to
1851 inclusive; also, increase of population per cent, in the halfcentusy.
DIVISIONS.
York City
£abt Riding....
North Riding . .
West Riding ..
YEARS.
1801.
16,846
111,192
158,927
672.168
18U.
19,099
133,975
170,127
662,875
1821.
21,711
154,643
188,178
809,363
1831.
26,260
168,891
192,206
984,609
1841.
28,842
194,936
204,701
1,163,580
1851.
36,308
220,983
215,214
1,325,495
Increase
of Population
percent.
inSO jreais*
116
97
35
132
DSSCBIFTION OF YOfiSSHIfiE.- 3
ktitade, and 1 deg. 10 min. W. and 0 deg. 10 min. £. longitude from the
meridian of Greenwich. Its boundaries on the N. and N.W. are formed by
the little riyer Hertford, and the Derwent, which divides it from the North
Riding as fiir down as Stamford Bridge ; and from a mile above that place,
by an irregular boundary line which joins the Ouse, about a nule below
York ; from this point it is bounded on the W. and S.W. by the river Ouse,
which separates it from the West Eiding ; on the S. by the Humber ; and
on the £. by the North Sea or German Ocean. It is an irregular figure,
resembling the outline of a shoulder of mutton, of which Holdemess may be
called the shank, terminating in a narrow point at the confluence of the
Humber with the ocean, whence the Riding extends from. 60 to 00 miles
northward, varying in its widest parts from 30 to- 40 miles in breadth from
east to west It contains 7 wapentakes, about 197 parishes,, and about 400
townships, and it forms a rich agricultural district. Its principal towns are
Hull, Beverley, Bridlington, Driffield, Hedon, Hornsea, Howden, Market
Weighton, Pocklington, and Patrington. HuU, or Eingston-upon-HuU, is
an ancient town and county of itself,- but attached to the East Riding in the
election of two knights of the shire to serve in parliament Beverley, the
capital of the Riding,, is now the only parliamentaiy borough in it — ^Hedon,
an ancient borough, having been disfr'anchised in 1832. The coast of this
Riding has two remarkable promontories — Flamborough Head and Spurn
Point — and has been much wasted by the incursions of the sea during the
present century ; but on its southern border, several thousands of acres of
fertile land, called Sunk Island, have been recovered from the estuary of the
Humber, by a system of warping and embanking, which was commenced in
the reign of Charles I.
The East Riding is far less conspicuously marked with the bolder features
of natme than the other parts of the county. It may be distanguished into
three districts, the WoldSf and the two level tracts, one of which lies to the
east, and the other to the west and north of that elevated region. The
Wolds are lof)y ranges of chalk lulls, extending frx>m th^ banks of the
Humber, in the vicinity of Hessle, in a northerly direction, to the neigh-
bonrhood of Malton on the Derwent, where they range eastward within a
few miles of the course of that river, to the coast, where they form the lofty
promontory of Flamborough Head ; and in the vicinities of the villages of
Flamborough, Bempton, and Speeton, they rise in cliffs of from 100 to 150
feet The ascent to the Wolds is somewhat steep, except on the eastern side,
where they rise in gentle and successive swells, presenting a beautiful aspect
towards the flat country. Though their height in the most elevated parts is
4 DESCRIPTION OF TOBKSHIBE.
supposed not to exceed 600 feet, yet many parts afford magnificent and de-
lightful prospects. From several of the elevated points between the Humber
and the high road from Kirk Ella, by Kiplingham, to Cave, York Minster,
Howden Church, Flamborough Head, Bridlington Priory, Beverley Minster,
and the churches of Hull and Hedon, may be distinctly seen; and fiom
some of these heights the Cathedrals of York and Lincoln are at once visible.
The eastern part of this elevated district, skirting the Humber, commands a
splendid view of that vast estuary extending to the south-east till it is lost in
the horizon ; and the farther distances are filled up with a view of the shores
of Holdemess and Lincolnshire.* The western hills towards Cave afiford a
very extensive prospect over an immense level, terminating in the high lands
of the West Riding ; and also of the rivers Ouse and Trent, which, at their
junction, are overlooked by the fine promontory of Aukborough. From the
western hills a good view is obtained of the southern part of the Vale of York,
reaching far beyond that city into the West Hiding ; and &om the northern
edge of these hills the Vale of Derwent is seen extended below, and beyond
it the black moors towards Whitby rise in sublime grandeur. The surfoce
of the Wolds is, for the most part, divided into numerous extensive swells,
by deep, narrow, winding valleys ; and the whole extent of the Wold district
is computed at about 400,000 acres.
The level tract along the coast, on the east of the Wolds, begins near
* At the Meeting of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, held at
Hull, in the month of September, 1853, Professor Stevelly read communications from
the Bev. Thomas Banldn, on " The continuation across the ootmtry of the thunder and
nun storm, which commenced in Herefordshire, on September 4th, and terminated on
the Yorkshire Wolds, on September 6th, 1852 ;" and a " Notice of a terrific thunder-
cloud on the Wolds, September 26th, 1852." This latter commenced about fire o'clock
in the afternoon, in the N.W., with a dark nimbus cloud. Its first appearance was
wedge-shaped, with its point towards the wind, and gradually increased in size. In a
short time a quantity of gaseous matter issued from the base of the wedge, and its
colour and evolutions resembled the smoke arising from the discharge of a park of
artilleiy. The Sistant thunder occasionally growled, but no lightning was seen for a
considerable time. By-and-bye the cloud assumed the shape of a fan, lying in a slanting
position, with the upper part reaching about 20 degrees towards the zenith. The colour
changed to that of a dingy brown, and the edges fringed and gilded on the broad part or
top of the tkD.. After some flashes of sheet-lightning, the thunder roared tremendously.
The fim shape was changed to that of a shapeless cloud. The distance seemed at first
about six miles, but in the course of twenty minutes the rain fell in torrents; still the
lightning was moderate. The fiBll of rain was but of short duration, though very heavy.
T^e frightM cloud must have travelled some fifteen or sixteen miles an hour. The
day was calm, except a very gentie motion in the atmosphere, about two o'clock, which
veered to the N.W. in a short time.
DESCRIPTION OF TOBBBHUIE. 5
Filey, the noiihem limit of the East Riding. As far as Bridlington the
face of the country is beautifully diversified with lofty swellsi but at that
place the country sinks into a flat, which continues for eight or nine miles
to the southward with scarcely any variation. About seven miles south of
Bridlington the Holdemess district begins, the eastern part of which, towards
the sea coast, is a finely varied country, in which is situated Hornsea Mere,
the largest lake in the county ; but the western edge is a fenny tract of
abont four miles in breadth, extending nearly twenty miles in length south-
ward to the banks of the Humber. These fenny lands are provincially called
Cam. The southern part of this district, bordering on the Humber, also
fJEklls into marshes ; and in most parts of Holdemess, the views are enlivened
by a prospect of the Yorkshire and in some places of the Lincolnshire Wolds.
The third natural division of the East Elding extends ficom the western foot
of the Wolds to the boundary of the North and West Ridings. This tract
of land, which is commonly called The LeveU, is flat and uninteresting,
though generally fertile and well interspersed with villages and hamlets ; in-
deed it is a continuation of the level tract ab6ut and around Selby, Thome,
and Goole, on the opposite side of the Ouse.
The Soil on the Wolds is commonly a free and rather light loam, with
a mixture of chalky gravel, and some parts are very shallow. The flat
country extending between the Wolds, the Ouse, and the Humber, towards
ihe Spurn Head, along the side of the Humber, presents a soil of a strong
nature ; and the soil of the Levels is in most parts clayey, with an extensive
sandy, and, in some places, moorish tract running through the middle.
Near the banks of the Ouse and Derwent it is entirely a clayey loam.
One of the most important agricultural improvements in the county is
the drainage of the carrs and marshes in this division of it, together with
those of the North Riding bordering on the course of the Derwent. The
Beverley and Barmston Drainage, executed under the provisions of an Act of
Pariiament passed about the year 1792, extends from Barmston on the sea
shore, a few miles south of Bridlington, along the course of the river Hull,
on the western side of that river, nearly to Eingston-upon-Hull, a distance of
about 24 miles. Its northern part contains more than 2000 acres, and has
an outfall into the sea at Barmston ; and the southern division, extending
southward from Foston, contains upwards of 10,000 acres, and has its outlet
into the river Hull at Wincolmlee. The Holdemess Drainage lies on the
eastern side of the river Hull, and extends from north to south about 11
miles, and contains 11,211 acres. In 1762 an Act was obtained for draining
this level, much of which before that period was of small value, being usually
0 BfiSCBIPnOK OF YOBESHIfiC^
covered with water for above half the year. The Keyingham Drainage , 1 jing
between Sunk Island and the mainland, was originallj completed mider an
Act passed in the year 1733 ; but a new Act was obtained in 180d, under
which the course of the drainage was partly altered, and an additional tract
of land included, making a total of 6^00 acres. The Hertford and Derwent
Drainage, contains upwards of 10,000 acres, of which, 4,600 are in the
East, and the remainder in the North Riding. This dnunage was com-
pleted under the powers granted to three directors, and three commissioners,
by an Act passed in the year 1800. Spalding Moor and WalUng Fen, a dis-
trict lying westward of the southern part of the Wolds, were drained, allotted,
and enclosed, under the provisions of the same Act of Parliament
The CUmate of the East Riding varies; it being colder on the eastern
than on the western side of the Wolds, as they break the force of the winds
from the German Ocean. The Levels in the western part of the Riding
enjoy a nuld climate. Near the coast the country is exposed to fogs £rom
the sea and £rom the Humber. On the Wolds the air is sharp.
Every kind of agricultural crop is cultivated in Yorkshire ; and the systems
of tillage, on account of the great diversity of soils and situations, are
extremely various ; but greater improvements have been made in agriculture,
and it has been brought to a higher degree of perfection, and conducted on a
more extensive scale in the East Biding, than in any other portion of the
county. Even in the low grounds called the Carrs, adyoining to the river
Hull, such improvements have been made by drainage, as less than a century
ago would have been deemed impossible. Extensive tracts of land, formerly
flooded a great part of the year, and producing scarcely anything but rushes
and a little coarse, grass, are now covered with abundant crops of grain ; and
the value of the soil has been increased in a tenfold proportion. The £GLrms,
especially on the Wolds and in the southern parts of Holdemess, are gene-
rally very large, and small farmers are rarely to be found, except in the
Levels on the western side of the Wolds towards York.* Wheat is grown
* AgricuUural Statistics of England. — The area of England, in statute acres, is
825,904,29. Mc. Queen's Statistics of the British Empire, gives the quantliy of culti-
vated land in England at 25,632,000 acres ; of these he computes that 15,379,200 acres
were pasture and meadow land, and 10,252,800 were garden and arable. He calculates
the average value to be 258. per acre. It is calculated that at least 1,200,000 acres of
land in England are taken up with hedges; half of which without inconvenience might
be dispensed with. From the last Census Report we leam what follows : — Farms occupy
two-thirds of the land in England. The number of the farms is 225,318, the average
size is 111 acres. Two-thirds of the farms are under that size, but there are 771 above
1,000 acres. The large holdings abound in the south-eastern and eastern counties, the
DfiSCmpnON OF TOBKSHIBfi. t
to a great extent on all the lower and more fertile lands ; and on the Wolds,
where about a century ago it was almost unknown, the valleja and declivities
of the hiUs now wave with plentiful crops of wheat ; and the farm servants
and labourers, who fbnnerly lived on barley bread, now use good wheaten
floor. The quantity of land annually sown with barley is nowhere remark-
ably great, except on the Wolds, the soil of which is peculiarly adapted to its
culture. The rabbit warrens, which, in the more uncultivated state of the
Wolds, formed a prominent feature, have nearly all disappeared; and in
proportion to th6 extirpation of rabbits, the breed of sheep has been im-
proved, especially by crosses from the Leicestershire. The sheep walks are
generally on the more elevated parts of the Wolds. The extensive level,
extending from the foot of the Wolds to the western limits of the Riding,
has received many great improvements by drainage, enclosure, and the
newest modes of agriculture. The vast commons of Walling Fen and Bishop-
soil, containing upwards of 9,000 acres, which, fifty or sixty years ago, was
a dreary waste, full of swamps and broken grounds, and which in foggy or
stormy weather could not be crossed without danger, are now covered with
well-built farm houses, and intersected in various directions with good roads.
In the rich and strong lands about Howden, large quantities of flax, and
also of beans, are produced ; and the whole of the level land in the East
Riding yields fine crops of com of all kinds.
There is little grass land in this district, except on the banks of the Der-
went above Malton, and again at Cottingham, where there are low tracts of
marshy meadows, which produce abundant crops of coarse flaggy hay, of
which that obtained from the last-mentioned district is of a pecuHarly
nutritive quality.
The East Hiding is famous for the breeding and " making up ** of horses,
for which there is one of the most noted fairs in the world, at Howden.
Holdemess, and some other districts, are distinguished for superior breeds of
homed cattle, as well as sheep. Holdemess cows are remarkable for their
large size, abundant supply of milk, and short horns. They are well
formed, and distinctly marked, being variously blotched with large patches
of deep red or black, or with a dun or mouse colour on a clear white ground.
They are rarely of one uniform colour, and are never brindled or mixed.
biiiaD fiurmB in the north. There are 2,000 Engtish fiurmen holding nearly 2,000,000
acres; and there are 97,000 English fjumers not holding more. There are 40,650
farmerB who employ five labonrers each ; 16,501 have ten or more, and employ together
311,707 labonrers; 170 farmers have above 60 labourers each, and together employ
17,000.
8 DESGBIPnOK OF Y0BE8HIBE.
There are several Agricultural Societies and Fanners* Clubs in Yorkshirei
liberally supported by the landowners and fiBurmers. The Yorkshire Agricul-
tural Society^ formed October 10th, 1837, and constituted on the model of
the Highland Society of Scotland, may be considered the chief of them. It
need scarcely be added that the object of these associations is the encourage-
ment and improvement of agriculture in all its branches. There are no
extensive woods in the East Riding. The only woods east of the Wolds are
those at Bise and at Burton Constable ; but there are abundance of planta-
tions, and trees in the hedge rows of old enclosures. Since the beginning
of the present century, the fine elevation of the Wolds have been greatly
improved by enclosures and plantations. Nearly all the fields are now en-
compassed with quickset hedges, and different parts of the heights are
ornamented by extensive plantations of Scotch and spruce firs, larch, beech,
ash, &c. Several tracts have also been planted in the low country to the
west of the Wolds.
Chalk and limestone are the principal mineral productions of the East
Biding ; — chalk chiefly on the Wolds, and limestone in the Yale of Derwent.
Near the coast the chalk extends from Hessle, on the banks of the Humber,
to Beighton, near Hunmanby. The chalk is occasionally used in building,
and frequently for burning into lime ; and the limestone, being coarse and
hard, is of little value either for building or burning. The springs in the
chalk are very powerful, and many of them, breaking out through the
gravel at the eastern foot of the Wolds, combine to form the river Hull. In
the gravel beds resting on the chalk, very perfect remains of large animals
have been found; and vertebrsB, 18 feet in length, and from 8 to 10 inches
in diameter, have been exhumed ; as are fr^uently teeth, measuring from 8
to 10 inches in circumference. "At Hull the gravel depositoiy of animal
remains is about 90 feet from the surface, and the workmen employed in
boring for water near the North Bridge, described their tools to have smelt
as if they had been cutting fish, so that it is probable that not only the bones,
but also the fleshy part of the animal remains. The coast from Spurn to
Bridlington forms a section of all the beds above the chalk ; and as it is not
in the line of dip, two beds are generally seen at the same time. A bed of
dark red day commences at Eilnsea, containing rounded boulders, mixed
with pebbles, both of which are composed of granite, gneisa, mica state, por-
P^yry^ grauwacke, quartz, nunmtain Umestons containing organic remains, all
the sandstones and coal shales, coal, fuUers* earth, chaOc, and flint. In this
bed the chalk pebbles are in the greatest quantity. On the south-western
side of Holdemess, along the edge of the chalk hills, a very extensive tract
DiesGiuimoN OP tobeshibe. 9
of rich land has been formed in the course of ages, called Warp Land, vbich
oozisists of the clay and sand deposits of the Humber. The greatest breadth
of this tract is from HuU to Hedon, a distance of six miles, and its length
firom Hull to Lowthorpe, a distance of twenty miles. A narrow piece of
newly-formed warp extends firom Hedon to Spurn, including Sunk Island,
and is called the Manhes. How long this operation of land making has
been proceeding in this quarter, hdfiian penetration and local records are
alike incapable of determining ; but that its date is many centuries is obrious,
as Drypool, which stands upon the present bank of the Humber, is mentioned
in the Domesday survey, and a causeway, extending firom Beverley to the
newly built town of Hull, at nearly its present level, existed in the time of
Edward I. The depth of the warp at Hull is 48 feet ; beneath it is a bed
of moorland, consisting priiicipally of peat earth, two feet in thickness. The
warp land extends beyond Driffield, but it is there much shallower than at
Hull, and its vridth does not exceed four miles. That this moor, now
coTered with warp, was formerly upon the surface, is shown by the nature of
its composition being eridently peat, which could not be formed in any other
situation; and that it extended across the Humber into Lincolnshire, is
proved by pieces of wood, exactly the same as those found in the moor,
haring been washed up at Hessle after a high wind.'i' All along the eastern
side of the Wolds, fin>m Bridlington to Beverley, and firom thence to Hessle
by the Humber side, the sandstone, and the chalk which rests upon it, dip
and Taniah under an extensive bed of alluvial soil, which forms the whole
district of Holdemess. The extensive plain on the north, the west, and the
south of the Wolds is covered with an alluvial deposit. '' It may be observed,
as a peculiarity, that the whole of the extreme edge or margin of the Wolds,
to the north and to the west, with one exception, continues in a regular and
entire state along the surface, without any of those depressions which take
place at a very Uttle distance within. It is veiy probable that the Wolds
have been the last deposit of all the great masses of simple and homogeneous
matter in this part of the world. There are scattered all over this elevated
tract nodules of pyrites, of a round form, composed of iron and sulphur, which
the country people call buUets; there are also great quantities of loose firag-
m^ita of sandstones, which are perfectly foreign to the calcareous matter of
which the Wolds are formed, and they have, doubtless, been brought here
by the action of the sea, after the chalky stratum had been deposited and
haidened, or they would have sunk into the pulp."!
• WhUe'B Gazetteer of the East and North Bidings of Torkshire. t Ibid.
0
10 DESCRIPTION OF TOBKBHIfiS.
The North Riding comprehends the whole north side of the comity, and is
much larger and more hilly than the East Biding. It is of an irregular
ohlong figure, from 70 to 88 miles in length from E. to W., and varying
from 25 to 47 miles in breadth from N. to S. It lies between the parallels
of 53 deg. 57 min., and 54 deg. 88 min. N. latitude, and between 0 deg. 19
min. and 2 deg. 22 min. W. longitude from Greenwich. It extends westward
from the ocean to the confines of Westaflorland, and is bounded on the N. bj
the river Tees, which separates it from the county of Durham ; on the N.E.
and E. by the North Sea ; on the S.E. by the East Riding ; on the S. by
the liver Ouse and the West Riding; and on the W. by the county of
Westmorland.
The Riding is divided into 12 wapentakes, and contains about 220
parishes, and 580 townships. The principal towns are Scarborough, Whitby,
Pickering, Malton, Yarm, -Stokesley, Guisborough, Middlesborough, Redcar,
Eirbymoorside, Helmsley, Thirsk, Northallerton, Richmond, Bedale, Masham,
Middleham, Leyboum, Askrigg, and Hawes. The city of York is attached
to the North Riding in the election of two knights of the shire. The gaol,
house of correction, and the principal courts and offices of the Riding, are
situated at its capital — ^Northallerton ; and its six parliamentaiy boroughs
are Malton, Richmond, Scarborough, Thirsk, Northallerton, and Whitby.
More than 400,000 acres of this Riding are uncultivated hills, fells, and
moors, some of which rise to the height of from 1,000 feet to more than 2,000
feet above the level of the sea. The highest of the mountains are Roseberry
Topping, 1,022, or according to some, 1,488 feet; Black Hamilton, 1,246
feet; Botton Head, near Stokesley, 1,485 feet; Nine Standards, on the
borders of Westmorland, 2,186 feet; Water Crag, 2,186 feet; and Shunner
Fell, 2,829 feet above the sea.'C The three latter are at the west end of the
Riding.
The sea coast of the East and North Ridings is about 100 miles in extent
from the mouth of the Hiunber to the mouth of the Tees. The principal
harbours on the coast are Hull, Bridlington, Scarborough, and Whitby ; to
which may be added, Filey Bay, Robin Hood's Bay, and several other creekS'
and fishing stations. The principal Bathing Places on the coast are Scaiv
borough, Whitby, and Redcar, in the North Riding; and Bridlington, Fil^,
Hornsea, and Aldborough, in the East Riding.
Mr. Tuke, who surveyed this Riding in the early part of the present
century, estimated its contents at 1,311,187 acres ; of which about 442^565
• Colonel Madge's Itigonometrical Surrey.
DESOBIPTION OF TORKSHIBB. 11
were then, and are still, mostly uncoltiyated moors. He divided the Riding
into six districts, as follows : —
Cultifated UneoltlvKted
i«
The Coast 64,020
Cleveland 70,444
Vale of York, Howardian Hills, <ko 441,886 15,000
Byedale, with the East and West Marishes 100,437 8,435
Eastern Moorlands 102,000 106,625
Western Moorlands 00,000 226,040
Total 800,187 442,000
Of the micultivated lands, about 136,625 acres in the Eastern Moorlands,
and 76,940 acres in the Western Moorlands, are incapable of improyement
except by planting ; but a great part of the remainder might be converted
into arable or pasture land.
Along the coast from Scarborough nearly to the mouth of the Tees, the
face of the country is hillj and bold, the cliffs overhanging the beach being
generally £rom 60 to 160 feet high, and in some places still higher, as at
Stoupe Brow, or Stow Brow, which rises 190 feet above Bobin Hood's Bay.
The moors in the back ground rise to an altitude of about 1,000 feet, and
the gradual slope from the moors to the sea renders the climate cold and
stormy.
Ths EoMtem Moorlands, which bound the narrow strip of coast land
between Scarborough and Whitby, is a wild and mountainous district, about
80 miles in length from east to west, and 20 in breadth from north to south,
and is intersected by several beautifrd and fertile dales, some of which are
extensive. The most remarkable object in the topography of these wilds is
the singular peaked mountain called Boseberry Topping, which is situated at
the north-west angle of the Eastern Moorlands, near the village of Newton,
about one mile to the east of the road from Guisborough to Stokesley. This
conical mount, from its detached position and superior elevation, commands
in all directions a land and sea prospect, at once extensive and interesting,
and serves as a landmark to mariners. Its pinnacled summit, too, furnishes
the inhabitants with the means of prognosticating the weather ; for when its
top begins to be darkened with clouds, rain generally follows, sometimes ac-
companied with thunder, as indicated in the following ancient proverb, —
" When Roseherry Topping wears a cap.
Let Cleveland then beware of a clap."
The height of this mountain has been already stated, but, as has been
shown, some of the hills in other parts of these moorlands are much higher.
12 DESCRIPTION OF TOBKSHIRB.
Rosebeny Topping is covered with verdure from its base nearly to its sum-
mit, which terminates in a peak of bare gritstone rock, only a few yards in
circuit Its base " is composed of immense strata of alum rock, above which
is iron ore, and about half way up the hiU is a large laminated rock consisting
of a friable and indurated ferruginous or ochrey clay, of a gritty texture,
containing an innumerable quantity of petrified shells, and other marine sub-
stances, most of which are bivalves, chiefly of the cockle and oyster kinds,
and very brittle, though filled with substances as hard as the rock in which
they are imbedded. Petrified scallop shells, and the ammonite, or snake
stones, are found in the substrata of the rock, but they are seldom perfect.
Jet, and pieces of petrified wood, have sometimes been found, as also have
trochita, or thunderbolts, as they are vulgarly called. The latter are conical
stones from two to six inches long, and less than an. inch in diameter at the
base. A little below the summit is a spring of clear water, concerning the
origin of which the country people have a ridiculous traditional tale of a child
being drowned there in the lap of its nurse, who had fallen asleep in the
hollow where the water issues from the earth. Eoseberry Topping is sup-
posed to have been the Mars of the Saxons, as Freeburgh Hill, within three
miles of it, is said to have been their Venus, The labour of ascending Hose-
berry Topping is amply remunerated by the enchanting views from the rocky
summit, in which are seen, — the beautiful Vale of Cleveland, a great part of
the county of Durham, the river Tees and its broad estuaiy, with a large
expanse of the German Ocean, all stretched out like a map round the
observer ; — ^the land beautifully studded with villages, farm houses, handsome
villas, plantations, &c., and the sea enlivened with vessels of all grades,
whose glittering sails full bosomed to the wind, or eddying to the breeze,
form various shades in the sunbeams, as they stand in different directions,
and present a pleasing variety to the enraptured sight."'*'
At the west end of the East Moorlands, about three miles west of
Helmsley, is a lofty range of hiUs called Black or Bleak Hambleton or
Hamilton,^ This range, which has, at a distance, the appearance of but one
elevation, rises between the open and luxuriant Vale of De Mowbray, and
the romantic Ryedale, and commands from its summits varied and extensive
• White's Gazetteer of the East and North Bidings of Yorkshire.
f The term Hamilton, or namildun, is of remote antiquity, being derived from him-
mel, or kernel, which in the Teutonic languages signifies a covering, a semi-globe, or the
heavens ; and thus, from their hemispherical form, or appearance, these, as well as hills
near Kirkby-Malzeard, Tadcaster, and Kendal, had their name. The hills called
Hamilton, near Helmsley, are the largest that bear thai name.
DE8GBIFTI0N OF T0BX8HIBE. 13
proepects, in which are seen the towns of Northallerton, Thirsk, Eirby*
moorsidey Helmsley, the Catholic College of Ampleforth, the ancient Castle
of Gilling, and the pictoresque remains of the Abbeys of Byland and
RiTanlx.
The northern heights of the East Moorlands are known as the Cleveland
HiUs ; and the fine fertile tract which lies between them and the river Tees,
is called the Vale of Cleveland. From the tenacity of its clays, or from its
eraggy cli£b, Clevdand is supposed to derive its name. The old local dis-
tiidi, "Cleveland in the clay bring ns two soles and carries one away,"
alludes to the cleaving of the clays to the shoes of the traveller. The ex-
tensive Vale of York, which, according to Mr. Tuke, reached from the border
of the Tees to the southern confines of the coimty, by Selby, Thome, and
Doncaster, has its northern portion in this Riding. It is bounded on each
side by the Eastern and Western Moorlands, and has a gentle slope from
the Tees southward as fiar as York, where it sinks into a perfect flat ; not
however before its ordinanly level surflELce is broken by several bold swells.
A range of Highlands, called the Howardian HiUis, separates this vale from
R^edale. The latter dale, and the East and West Marishes, form an exten-
sive level between the Eastern Moorlands and the river Derwent. This
levels which consists of the Vales of Eye and Derwent, extends under the
southern margin of the Eastern Moorlands from Helmsley to Scarborough
and Filey. The Marishes are separated from Eyedale by the Pickering
The Western Moorlands lie to the west of the Vale of York, and extend
westward from Richmond, Bedale, and Masham, to the borders of West-
morland and the county of Durham. These, which are of far greater
elevation than the East Moorlands, form part of the moimtainous range
which terminates the West Riding, near the lofty mountains of Whemside,
Ingleborough, and Pennigant, each rising to nearly 2,500 feet above the
level of the sea. Though these moorlands are much higher than those at
the east end of the Riding, they are generally more fertile than the latter ;
and among them are some of .the richest valleys in England. There eire
several extensive Dedes in the North Riding. Wensleydale, which is one of
them, is watered by the serpentine stream of the Ure ; Swaledale ranks next to
it in extent, and both of these dales axe very beautiful and romantic. Tees-
dale is of a similar character, and like the two former ones, has several steep
acdivities and beautiful cascades. The smaller dales are very numerous,
and are generally very fertile.
Tks Climate of the North Riding is various. On the coast it is cold ; in
14 ' DESOBIFnON OF TOBKSHIRB.
ihe Yale of York the air is mild and temperate, except near the moors. The
Howardian Hills are cold ; the great altitude of the East Moorlands render
their climate very cold, but the air of the West Moorlands is much colder,
though the latter are more favourable to vegetation than the former, owing
to their calcareous composition. Cleveland being exposed to the cold winds
£rom the moorlands and the sea, has a cUmate somewhat severe.
The Soil along the coast consists of a strong brownish clay and loam.
The district of Cleveland has mostly a strong clayey solL; but in some
places a clayey loam prevails, and in others a fine red sandy soil. This is
generally a fertile and well cultivated vale. On the East Moorlands, near
the old enclosures, are some considerable tracts of loamy and sandy soils,
producing furze, fern, thistles, and coarse grass. The subsoil is various, and
the basis of the whole district is freestone. The sur£ELce of some of the
higher hills is entirely covered with lai^e masses of freestone; in other
places are extensive morasses and peat bogs, very deep, frequently not pas-
sable, and highly dangerous. These morasses produce ling, and occasionally
bent and rushes. The Hamilton Hills, which form the western end of these
wastes, are, however, very different, having generally a fine loamy solL on a
limestone rock, which produces great quantities of coarse grass and bent, in
some places intermixed with ling. Some of the mountains on the western
side of the country are covered with fine sweet grass, and others with exten-
sive tracts of bent. In the Vale of York, the level land near the Tees
consists chiefly of a rich gravelly loam ; upon the high grounds on the west
side of the road from Catterick to Pierce Bridge, the soil is mostly strong,
and generally fertile, but in some places cold and springy. Fine hazel loam
is also occasionally met with. On the east side of the road irom Greta
Bridge to Catterick is much fine gravelly soil, with a considerable quantity of
clay, and some peat ; and to the north of Eichmond is a mixed loamy soil,
resting on lime or freestone ; the latter excellent for buildii^. On the east
side of the Catterick and Pierce Bridge road is some cold thin clayey soil,
of a ferruginous ochreous appearance, probably containing iron. About
Barton, Melsonby, and Middleton Tyas, the soil is loamy, upon limestone ;
but about Hanlaby, and from thence eastward to the edge of Cleveland, and
between the Wiske and the Eastern Moorlands, as far as Burrowby and
Thomton-le-moor, is mostly a cold clay ; though, in some places, less tena-
cious soils, mixed with various kinds of pebbles, are met with. On the west
side of the road between Richmond and Leeming, a good gravelly soil pre-
vails; towards Hornby, a fine gravelly clay; and at Langthom, a fertile
sandy loam, and some peat. The land on both sides of the brook which runs
DB8CBIFTI0N OF TOBXBHIBE. 16
from Burton Constable to Bedale, <fec., is mosdy a rich loam ; but in some
{daces intennised with cobble stones and coarse gravel. The soil between
Catterick and Bonmghbridge, on both sides of Leeming-lane, is generally
fertile both in tillage and pastuiBge, being mostly a rich loam, and having in
some plaoes a mixture of gravel, and in others sand.'** The soil of the
Howaidian Bills is mostly a good strong loam upon clay, mixed with cobble
stones, and in some places it is light and fertQe, upon a limestone rock. The
western end of these highlands, and from thence to Thirsk, is chiefly a dairy
country. Ryedale and the Vale of Derwent are extremely fertile, having
generally a hazel loam upon clay ; or a deep warp or silt soil on gravel or
day. The Maiishes, East and West, are a low swampy tract of marsh lands.
The soil in these marshes is chiefly clay, with some sandy loam, gravel, and
peat. The soil of Wensleydale, near the river, is generally a rich loamy
gravel, and on the sides of the hills, a good loam, in some places a little stiff,
upon a substratum of limestone. The soil of Swaledale and Teesdale is
mostly a rich loam, though clay and peat moss appear in some places in
ascending the hills.
Agriculture, throughout the greater part of the North Riding, has within
the last half century advanced as rapidly as in most parts of the kingdom,
considering the circumstances of cHmate and soil. In the Vale of York more
than one third is in tillage, and the rest in grass. Ryedale, the Marishes,
and the northern part of the coast have about one third in tillage; the
southern part of the coast about one-half. About one-half of Cleveland is in
tillage. In the dales of the Eastern Moors only about one-fifth is in tillage,
and much less in those of the Western Moors. The lower and better part of
the moors are mostly stinted pastures, on which cattle are kept in summer ;
but the high moors are generally unlimited pastures. Cleveland is as re-
markable for the culture of wheat as Ryedale is for that of oats. Barley is
not much cultrrated in the North Riding, nor rye, except on poor and sandy
soils ; but mssUnj or a mixture of wheat and lye, was, till a few years ago,
veiy common ; and from it was made nearly all the household bread used in
the district. Great quantities of rape are grown in Ryedale and other dis-
tricts ; and mustard is grown near York, and prepared for use in that city.
The lattrar is equal in quality to the Durham mustard. The enclosed lands
in many parts of the dales are chiefly appropriated to meadow.
The Woodlands of the North Riding are only estimated at about 80,000
acres, dispersed in all dixections» the moorland and Cleveland having the
* White's Gazetteer of the East and North Bidings of Yorkshire.
16 DESCRIPTION OF TOBKSHIRE.
smallest piopoition. Oak, ash, and broad-leaved or wych elm, are the spon-
taneous produce of the woodlands. " The oak timber, though not large, is
of excellent quality," writes White, in his Gazetteer, " being produced on
sound and often rocky ground, its growth is slow, which renders it extremely
hard and durable, and to the use of it the ship-builders of Whitby owe their
wealth, and the ships their celebrily." There is a great quantity of lai^ge
timber trees in the hedge rows in various parts of the Biding.
This district is said to produce some of the finest and largest Catde in
England, the breed having of late years been greatly improved. The Tees-
water or Holdemess Breed of cattle axe considered the largest in the kingdom,
and they fetch veiy high prices in the market. *^ They are handsome
animals, distinctly marked with red or black blotches on a white ground ;
their backs level ; throats clean ; necks fine ; carcase fiill and round ; quarters
long; hips and rumps even and wide; stand rather high on their 1^;
handle very lightly ; are light in the bone ; and have a very fine coat and
thin hide." We may add to this graphic description, that this breed is
short-homed, and is bred chiefly in the northern part of the Vale of York.
In the southern part of the same vale the breeding of cattle is not so much
attended to as in the north ; the chief object of the graziers there, being the
dairy. Towards the western extremity of the Riding some long-homed
cattle are met with, and also a mixed breed between the two. Ryedale, the
Marishes, and the Howardian Hills are also celebrated for fine shortrhomed
cattle ; and a great number of good cattle are bred on the East Moorlands
and along the coast.
The Tees-^cater breed of sheep, the old stock of Cleveland and the northern
parts of the Vale of York, are large, coarse boned, and slow feeders, and
their wool is harsh and diy, But most of this stock has been improved by
a mixture of the Leicestershire and Northumberland breeds ; as also have
those in Ryedale, the Marishes, and the Howardian Hills, where a cross has
likewise been obtained firom the Lincolnshire long-woolled breed. The na-
tive moorland sheep are small and hardy.
Yorkshire has long been famed for its Horses, and the North Riding is
particularly distinguished for its breed. The hme of the Yorkshire horses
is deservedly spread, not only in this country, but also in France, Germany,
Russia, America, &c., and dealers from those countries generally attend the
great annual flair at Howden, and are frequently commissioned by Emperors
and Kings to purchase horses there. The horses of the Yale of York, by the
introduction of the racing blood, are rendered the most valuable breed for the
saddle; and the Cleveland horses are well adapted to the coach or the
^ DESCBIPTIOM OF T0BK9HIRE. 17
ploagh. Other parts of the Ridmg produce excellent horses likewise, for
the saddle and coach, and in the moorland dales is bred a hardy and useful
description of horse, forming a medium between the Scotch galloway and the
strong coach horse.
The Minerals of this district of the county consist chiefly of alum, lead,
freestone or grit, a Tery inferior kind of coal, limestone, and ironstone.
Cleveland and the coast abound in all their hills with beds of aluminous
strata ; and extensive works for the manu&cture of alum have been estab-
lished near Whitby, where the art is stated to have been introduced from
Italy in 1595.
There are Lead Mines in Swaledale, Arkengarthdale, and the neigh-
boouing valleys; and great quantities of ironstone are found in Bilsdale,
Bransdale, and Rosedale, in the Eastern Moorlands, where iron seems to
have been extensively manufiictured in ancient times.i' The huge heaps of
slag, and the remains of ancient works, with the appearance of the hearths
where charcoal has been burned, show that iron was anciently wrought in
several of the dales in this district, on an extensive scale. Some ironstone
is got on the coast near Whitby. A mine of very fine copper, near Middleton
Tyas, was wrought for some years, about the middle of the last century, and
veins of the same metal are supposed to lie concealed in various parts of the
Western Moorlands. Near the bridge at Eichmond, in 1798, copper of an
excellent quality was discovered.
Freestone and ffrtt, of an excellent quality for building, is found in many
parts of this Riding, especially on Gatherley Moor, near Richmond; at
Renton, near Boroughbridge ; and in the quarries near Whitby and Scar-
borough ; from whence are drawn the massive blocks used in the construction
of the piers at these ports. Limestone is very abundant on the Western
Moorlands and on the Hamilton and Howardian HiUs. Seams of coal, which
is heavy, sulphureous, and bums entirely away to a white ashes, are wrought
in different parts of both the Eastern and Western Moorlands, at GiUing
Moor on the Howardian Hills, and in the Vale of York, between Easingwold
and Thirsk. Marble of various kinds, together with a kind of flag stone used
• An inspeximnB, dated at York the 20th of Febmary, 1328, the 2nd of Edward m.,
recites a grant made on the 16th of August, 1209, by Robert de Stuteville, of a meadow
in Bosedale, to the nuns of that place, excepting only his forge, affords proof that iron
was worked there early in the 18th century. — Dugdale's Monastieon, vol, i, p, 507.
Lai^ge quantities of ironstone have been recently conveyed from Bosedale, and it ap-
pears that there is a determination on the part of the owners of property there, that the
rieh minenls, contained in their fertile vale, shall not any longer lay hid to the world,
but be made to oontribate to its wealth and prosperity.
D
18 DESCRIPTION OF YORKSHIRE.
for covering roofs, and a sort of purple slate, are also dug up in this districts
On the surface of some of the north-western hills large blocks of light red
granite are seen.
Though the climate of the North Riding is vaiious, it is as favourable to
longevity as most parts of the kingdom. The most remarkable in the list of
departed venerables are Henry Jenkins, of Ellerton-on-Swale, who died in
1670, aged 169 years; Mary WiMnson, of Romaldkirk, who died in 1783,
aged 109 ; Thomas Martin, of Helmsley, who died in 1804, at the age of
130 years ; and John Davidson (late a sergeant of the 5th regiment of foot),
who died at Rawcliffe, November 11, 1854, aged 101 years.* The latter
was discharged from the army in 1805, and worked at his trade of basket
making until the last three years before his death.
The West Biding, which for its extent, popidation, trade, and manufactures,
is the most important division of tlie county, is bounded on the N. by the
North Riding ; on tlie E. by the river Ousc to its junction with the Trent ;
on the W. by the county of Lancaster ; and on the S. by the counties of
Chester, Derby, and Nottingham. Its greatest length from E. to W. is
about 95 miles, and its extreme breadth from N. to S. is 48 miles. It is
situated between the parallels of 53 deg. 18 min. and 54 deg. 23 min. N.
latitude, and 0 deg. 43 min. and 2 deg. 40 min. W. longitude from
Greenwich.
The most important towns in the West Riding are Bradford, Leeds,
Sheffield, HalifiELx, Huddersfield, Dewsbury, Bamsley, Wakefield, Rotlierham,
Doncaster, Pontefract, Goole, Bawtry, Selby, Tadcaster, Tickhill, Wetherby,
Knaresborough, Otley, Keightley, and the city of Ripon.
The surface of this part of the county is diversified, and gradually varies
from a level and marshy, to a rocky and mountainous region. The Vale of
York, which lies along the borders of the Ouse, is a flat and marshy district,
intersected by the rivers Ouse, Aire, and Don. The middle parts of the
Riding contain a variety of beautiful scenery, but the country westward of
* Centenarians. — ^At the lost census 1 11 men and 208 women have been relumed of
ages ranging from 100 to 119 years; and to the scientific inquirer in the districts
where these old people reside, an opportunity is afforded of investigating and setting at
rest a problem of much greater interest than some of the curious questions that engage
ihe attention of learned societies. Two-thirds of the centenarians are women. Several
of them in England are natLves of parishes of Ireland or Scotland, where no efficient
gjstem of registration exists ; few of them reside in the parishes where they were born,
and have been known from youth ; many of the old people are paupers, and probably
illiterate ; so that it would no doubt be difficult to obtain the documentary eridence
which can alone be accepted as conclusive proof of such extraordinary ages.
DESCRIPTION OF YORKSHIRE. 10
Sheffield, Bradford, and Otley, is ragged and mountainous. The western
part of the district of Craren presents a confused heap of rocks and moun-
tains ; among which Pennygant, Wharnside, and Ingleborough, are particu-
larly conspicuous. The latter, which is one of the most majestic moimtains
in the county, rises from a base of nearly ten miles in diameter, to an
elevation of 2,360 feet. The scenery in the picturesque vales of the Wharfe,
ihe Aire, and the Ribble, is beautifully diversified. In the middle district
of this Riding the air is sharp, clear, and healthful ; in the western the
climate is cold, tempestuous, and rainy ; and in the eastern parts, towards
the banks of the Ouse, damps and fogs are somewhat prevalent.
The soils of the West Riding vary from a deep strong clay or loam to the
worst peat earth. Almost all the arable land is enclosed with hedges or
stone walls ; the former in the eastern, the latter in the western parts. A
great part of the Riding is exclusively kept in grass. In the arable land, a
greater quantity of wheat is raised than of any other grain. The quantity
of oak and ash wood is very considerable, and both meet with a ready market
at the shipping and manufacturing towns.
The mineral productions of the West Riding are of peculiar value, as they
create and supply the manufactures of the district. They consist of coal,
iron, stone, and lead. " The West Riding," writes the editor of the Parlia-
mentary Gazetteer (1843), "yields in geological interest to no equal space in
the kingdom. In this portion of the island, four clearly marked di\dsions
present themselves. The Levels on the east rest on the stratum of red sand
and clay, with gypsum or alabaster in varying quantity. The magnesian
limestone range is one great plain rising from beneath the Levels, and ter-
minating toward the west in a regular well-defined edge, forming the partial
summit of drainage. In the south is the great Yorkshire and Derbyshire coal
field, which rivals, or even supasses in importance, that of Northumberland.
The mining district is, in some parts of the north, exceedingly variable in
features, occupying either high or low ground, producing or not producing
metallic ores."
The Manufactures of the West Riding are most valuable and extensive ;
they consist chiefly of woollen and stuff goods and cutlery. The seat of the
former is the district including the towns of Leeds, Halifax, Huddersfield,
Bradford, and Wakefield ; and that of the latter, Sheflfield and its ^dcinity.
Besides broad and narrow cloth of various qualities, quantities of ladies'
cloths and shawls are also manufactured in this district, as w^ell as camblets,
shalloons, duroys, everlastings, shags, serges, baize, carpets, canvas, hnen,
sacking thread, &c. The Leeds poltery enjoys a \ery considerable reputation
20 DESCRIPTION OF TOBKSHIBS.
both at home and abroad. Besides the manufietcture of cutlery, there are,
besides at ShefQeld, foundries for iron, brass, and Britannia metal, and ex-
tensive works for the refining of steel; and at the neighbouring town of
Botherham are celebrated iron works, at which all kinds of articles in cast
iron are produced.
The Wastes of Yorkshire are yery extensive, and about the end of the last
century were calculated in the whole at 849,272 acres ; but they have, since
that period, been considerably lessened by numerous Inclosure Acts ; obtained
both for the detached wastes, and for parts of the moorlands.
The geographical features of the county are strongly marked, and render
the whole province one of the most interesting in the kingdom ; parts of the
moors in the North Riding rise 1,444 feet above the level of the sea, and
there are many other highlands andYeaks in various parts of the district
The chief Port of the county is Hull, which may be deemed the third in
England ; and the ports of the smaller class are those of York, Selby, Goole,
Thome, Bridlington, Scarborough, Middlesborough, and Whitby.
The Commerce is of a very extensive and diversified character. The
foreign and coasting trade is wholly centred in the above-mentioned ports,
but more particularly in that of Hull, through which is poured an immense
quantity of manufactured goods, coal, stone, &c., from the West Riding.
Com is exported fix)m Hull, Bridlington, and Scarborough, to London and
the collieries of the north ; and from the principal markets of the East and
North Ridings, great quantities of grain are sent into the western division
of the county.
Geology, dc, — The county of York afifords interesting fields of study to the
student in geology. All its strata, with slight variations, dip eastward, those
which appear at its western extremities being of the oldest formation. The
mineral productions of the county consist chiefly of coal, iron, lead, alum,
and stone of various qualities. The West Riding comprises, as has just
been observed, one of the most valuable and extensive coal fields in the
kingdom.
That distinguished Professor of Geology, John Phillips, Esq., F.R.S., de-
livered a lecture in Hull, in 1853, on the occasion of the visit to that town of
the British Association for the Advancement of Science. The subject of the
Professor was " Some Peculiar Phenomena in the Geology and Physical Geo-
graphy of Yorks^re ;" and from that lecture, as we found it reported in the
local newspapers, we have selected the following interesting extracts. After
referring to the large portion of the residents in the county to whom York-
shire was unknown ; and to the small number of Yorkshiremen who could be
DESCRIPTION OF YORKSHIRE. 21
to have climbed our lofty moimtams — which, in his judgment, made
this county famous among the counties of England — or who were supposed
to know much of the mountains, and caverns, and stratified rocks; and
having alluded to the geographical appearance of the county ; to the distri-
bation of masses of land, and of the relative elevation of different parts of
the district, as well as to the elevations, depressions, and stratifications of
portions of the county, he drew the attention of his audience to waterfalls,
and remarked that they did not find a waterfall of the slightest importance
in the S.W. part of the county, or in the Wold country. But as soon as they
airived at the district of the oohtes firom Whitby to Thirsk they had water-
falls, and going further north they became abundant and most beautiful in
character. There was Hardrow Force, with a fall of one hundred feet over
a magnificent precipice, and they might walk underneath the edge of it, and
only get wetted by the spray, such a distance was the water thrown over in
a carved line. But on finding their way to a fall where the rock was of a
basaltic nature, and of a quite different texture to the first one he had men-
tioned, there was instantly visible a very marked difference. Such a rock
was the precipice over which the High Force Falls rolled their waters. It
was of limestone, and was one of the most beautiful in the country. He only
mentioned these facts to show that to geologists this was a most important
sabject, and deserving of their serious consideration. He would labour to
show, in the second place, that these results were dependent on the peculiar
geological structure of the country. He had the pleasure of coming to that
pari of the countiy where it could not be necessary to say that water had a
tendency to deposit sediment on level surfaces. On tlie banks of the num-
ber they found that sediment thrown down by water, formed smooth surfaces
and had a tendency to create what were called warps — ^which were in very
many instances of the most fertile description. They should look at the
atrocture of the country. He was not going to tell them how many
thousands of these various deposits there were, composed of sand, covered
with a subsequent deposit of lime, then a subsequent deposit of sand again,
th^i of iron stone, and so on, for many thousands of feet, for he would tell
them that to count them would be of very little service except to show that
the structure of the earth was composed of regular coatings of various
substances, and was materially different to what many people imagined. Ho
believed that the earth showed in its distribution as much arrangement as
was to be found among other works of nature. He should endeavour to
show that the various strata, which were elevated and depressed, were
caused by a great convidsive movement in tlie earth. He should be able to
23 DESCRIPTION OF YORKSHIRE.
show this by various illustrations, and he was certain he should not leave
any one present in doubt on the subject. He intended to show the character,
in general terms, of the old bed of the sea at a certain period, very far back
since, that a set of rocks were placed in them — ^that a movement then took
place in the bed of the sea; and he should describe the results of that
general movement. If they transported themselves into the western parts
of Yorkshire, and stood between Mickle-Fell and Ingleborough — a truly
magnificent country — ^they would find that the geological features of the
country were clearly to be traced from the natural movement of the earth,
of a most decisive character. Having gone to Ingleborough, the country
showed that the basis of the whole formation began with a mass of slate
rocks, thrown up in an angular elevation, and into grand curvatures. By
observing the direction of the large arches of the rocks, by means of the dips
and strikes, it was very easy to determine the precise direction in which that
rock ran. In the instance to which he alluded, they ran from E. to S.W. ;
the whole country had, in fact, been bent in a series of curved elevations and
depressions, like a waved substance, just as we might bend a piece of paper.
That was undoubtedly caused by the bed of the sea, at some ancient period,
having imdergone a movement of some kind or other, for they found in
examination these rocks contained the organic remains of zoophites, corals,
shells, and traces of the lower orders of animal life. Up to the present time,
however, neither Professor Sedgwick nor the friends who had assisted him
had been able to trace any remains of fishes. The surface of the country
having become elevated in places by this struggle of nature, a phenomena of
a more recent period — one of great interest to geologists — ^had occurred,
which had ground down the surface of the elevation and brought it to its
original level. The question then arose as to how so extraordinary an efiect
could have been produced by nature. The president of the British Association
had successfully investigated the employment of mechanical force to reduce
rocks, and would probably agree with him in doubting if there were any force
in nature likely to produce effects of the kind to which he alluded, except it
were by the action of the agitated waters on the coasts. Over the deposit of
the Cambrian rocks, worn and wasted, there was a deposit of a calcareous
character, which was no doubt at first calcareous mud, several hundred feet
in thickness. On examining a piece of that rock with the naked eye, it
appeared to contain fossil remains of a large character ; but when a slice of
it was cut off and placed under the microscope, it then turned out that the
deposit was composed of nothing else but the remains of life, accumulated
during a former period ; and, therefore, they had the most unquestionable
DESCBIPnON OF TOtlKSHIBfi. Ad
evidence that the sea has been concerned in the formation. But now let us
paase at this point, and inquire what this remarkable formation must have.
been. The whole sea-bed must have been widely and for a long time depressed.
We find a series of deposits to a considerable elevation, consisting of lime-
stone, shale, and many other sorts ; and you must still go on and add to
them the whole thickness of the coal measures of Yorkshire, and you must
believe that after the land which has thus been elevated and then torn away^
as just described, was again depressed with these subsequent deposits upon
it, BO that several thousand feet of earth now laid upon the top of the Cambrian
beds. WeU, now, that is the second part of the history belonging to that
line of country. And now comes on another change. The whole of this
formation is broken up again by a fracture not limited to Yorkshire, but
which can be traced northward from thence to Newcastle, and by which the
then existing strata of the surface of the earth have been carried upwards by
pressure ; and thus we arrive at the causes of those cases of elevation and
depression in the present arrangement, varying from an elevation of 3,000
feet on the north, and 1,200 and 000 feet on the south side of Ingleborough,
and in many places to even considerably greater elevations than that, but
not exceeding 4,000 feet To explain this still Anther, suppose this is a
mass of mountain limestone taken from half-way up the Ingleborough
mountain, from which it has been thrown down to the south, and placed on
that side : it is not limestone only, but millstone grit, the coal measures, and
other portions of the former land have all been displaced, and depressed, so
much so, that instead of being found where they are had they remained in
their relative position to the rest of that strata, they would now have been
found far above the summit of Ingleborough. It must once have been 1,500
feet above where it now exists. Well, now, this is the average of the depression
of the real mountain limestone. The most remarkable feature of the deposits
of this era was that they showed that the period of their deposit was the
first in which this country became dry land. At the preceding deposits
were those of the water ; but here we had diy land, and land plants which
had grown upon rocks in connexion with beds of coal. This was the only
evidence upon which we could satisfactorily rest of the appearance of dry
land. You could see the strata exhibiting it at Lord Fitzwilliam's coUiery
at Wentworth. The period at which this formation took place was now so
distant that it could not be measured by revolutions round the sun. And,
now, let them look again at what happened after this event. This was
another great system of dislocation which affected all the north of England.
Alter the deposit of the coal measures, and again, as in the previous case.
S4 DE8GRIPTI0N OF YORKSHIRE.
we bad the effects of the sea in sweeping away the land ; subsequently a
depression takes place, and, then a marine deposit takes place upon that ;
after that you have a set of deposits, including the peroxide of iron, and it is
for that reason we look for a deficiency of animal life. After that a totally
new series began ; the first of this series was the lias. He trusted many
would with him visit the coast and see this formation for themselves.
If they did, they would find vast numbers of curious shells, and great
numbers of curious animals ; this was the range of the ammonites. He
supposed that nobody could be found amongst us who would now believe the
tales of the Whitby people, who supposed that these were serpents without
heads, and that they could successfuUy put them on. There were IdO
species of these most beautiful creatures, not a single living specimen of
which was now in existence. The learned lecturer next referred to a work
which he published in 1829, in which he recorded a remark that this coast
abounded in iron stone, and to the fact, that two years ago some gentlemen
from Middlesborough-upon-Tces went to a place called Eston Nabb, and not
knowing what had been recorded for twenty years respecting the iron stone, but
looking at the country, thought it contained iron ; they examined and found
it ; they commenced operations, and now several blast furnaces are at work ;
and those rocks in all the mining books of the day axe spoken of as a dis-
covery of iron stone ; they refer to it as if it had never been known before ;
it was, in truth, a discovery after all ; although it had been published by
me, for the pubUcify had become totally forgotten by all practical men. He
mentioned this, not for the childish claim of honour for the discovery, for it
was known before he wrote it, but, continued the Professor, there was no
British Association then. This iron stone is found in beds of 16 feet thick
in some places, and in many cases 13 feet thick, and it is obtained with such
ease, that it can be and is placed on the railway waggon at half a crown a ton,
leaving a very large profit for the lord of the manor ; this was a price at
which iron stone could not be produced in any other county of England. He
next alluded to the series of oolite deposits. This extends from Gloucester
and Bath to the sea coast of Yorkshire, near Whitby. Near to Bath and
Gloucester there are several mines of this rich and beautiful freestone, of
which so many churches and other public edifices are built. In Yorkshire^
this stone was found mixed with a great variety of marine shells ; but he
most particularly wished to draw attention to certain remarkable plants, some
of which were found in a perpendicular position, and many in an oblique
one ; there were many of them frequently ten feet in length, and they pos-
sessed the joints (^ marsh plants. It was only in one place that they were
DEBOBlPnOV OF TOBKSHIRE. 20
finmd erect The plants were not found in the oolite near Bath and
Gloucester; they appear to be the produce of a marshy soil. Fossil plants
exist in the north-east of Yorkshire, and are not very unlike the cycas and
«f"«wi which some of us now cultivate with so much care in hothouses ; they
are found along with many other ferns and corresponding plants, and also
fresh water shells, if they were firesh water shells ; he dare not go so &r as
to say so, aUhough some persons did, but he did beliere that they had lived
m an estuary. This chain of the oolite series were remarkable for having
its abundance of plants, for its ironstone, and fossil sheiils, and for two
descriptions of building stone, shale, &c,f all different firom the oolite of Bath ;
and it was worthy of consideration, that there were some series of rocks of the
some formation, in which there was an eaiiie absence of certain fossils found
in other rocks of the same formation ; this indicated that a portion of the
same chain or rock had been subjected to different circumstances at one
extremity firom those which existed at the other; and yet there were some
saries of rocks, apparently of the same formation, in which both the fossils
and the rocks were of a totally different order ; there were also marks in the
ooUte rocks of Yorkshire, which showed one curious circumstance, and that
was that there must have been land to the northward where land plants have
been growing, and which have been drifted possibly by the action of the sea
to the oolite rocks where they were now found. This was a curious corrobo-
ratioa of Professor Forbes* theory, which, for explanation of the modem
distribution of plants, required that there should at some period have been
land somewhere between the Highlands and Scandinavia. He would now
call their attention to the foot that the stratified crust of Yorkshire had been
again broken up after the deposition of the oolites, and had been formed into
great depreasions and arches like those before described — the sur£ftce had
been worn down, and there had been another marine deposit, the chalk of
the Wolds. It was a most pleasing geological walk to start ftom Brough,
and trace along the edge of the Wold Hills this deposit of chalk. He must
sow pass to the illustration of the movements which had taken place on the
smfoce. In Holdemess, were it not for a geological deposit, the country
would be as flat as it was thought to be by some people ; but he had some
degree of pleasure in pointing out a place where the hill arose no less than
150 foet above the sea. The place was called Dimlington Heights, and was
oaaapofaed of day, inclosing a great variety of stone in large masses. There
were also various bands of gravel which marked its gradual formation. Now
these stones, which were there to be seen, were of a most characteristic
description, and could be traced, beyond aU doubt, as part of that found at
^G DSSCBIPTION OF YOBKSHIBE.
Shapfell, ill Westmorland. Similar blocks of granite were found dropped
iu other places, all of which, it was clear, had come from the same place.
These blocks, it was OTident, had been by some agency removed finom Shap-
£bU« and carried eastward over a deep valley in which the river £den runs,
had climbed next a great range of hills which they had crossed, dropping
eome at certain places, and, being over the hills, had then began to diverge,
and take irregular courses, going to Dartington, over the Yale of York to
Northallerton, and to various places along the coast down iuto Holdemess.
The course of the stones was distinctly marked, and could be traced clearly.
The point of elevation over which they had been carried was now 1,440 feet
above the sea — a height as high as that fiom which they had been taken —
to reach which they had to croes a valley which was the most ancient
geological valley in Yorkshire. This showed that the block must have been
transported by some power different from what was ordinarily met with. A
veiy great number of these stones were found in the neighbourhood of Ingle*
borough, and, indeed, he had taken the pains to mark many of them on a
part of the six-inch ordnance map. The part where they were here found
was even higher than the place from which they came. How, then, was their
transit to these places to be accounted for ? He was scarcely able to furnish
a solution that appeared to him entirely satisfactoiy ; but he was disposed to
think that the continual movement of the level of the ground, without any
great disturbance of the crust of the earth, might be an element in the
explanation, of considerable importance, for this might have taken place, and
the rocks now standing have been undisturbed by any violent convulsion,
whilst the general form of them might have been altered. Then, supposmg
this to be the case, it was suggested that the blocks of stone had been taken
from their original position by icebergs, which, floating about, were melted,
and the blocks dropped. Subsequent alterations in the form of the earth's
surface brought the blocks up, and they were again picked up by the ice
and dropped again somewhere eLse. These were some of the methods of
accounting for these removab, and were probably the best explanations that
could be given of them — though he did not give them as being altogether satis-
fJGU^toiy or complete. That all those districts had once been covered by a
glacial ocean was clearly proved by shells of that particular character which
Mr. James Smith, Professor Forbes, and other gentlemen, who had made
researches into the matter, considered stamped as shells of an Arctic Sea«
Having described the iofluence of the weather on the earth, in the wasting
and wearing away of its surDace ; and alluded to the action of the water
after it sunk into the earth, as exhibited in springs and caves in Yorkshire,
DBSCBIFTION OF TORKSHIRE. Q7
the learned Professor proceeded to speak of the waterfalls. That of Hardrow
Force, if seen, he continued, would enable every one to understand the des-
eiiption which Ljell had given of the action going on at Niagara. There
(at Hardrow Force) a small mountain stream fell over the rock, the base oi
wfaleh was composed of day and shale. This was acted upon by the
moistaie, and fell away gradually, and the result was, the cliff was under-
mined, and the rocks above bemg jointed at pretty regular intervals, fell over,
and thus the waterfall was removed a certain step further up the mountain.
On examination, this course of action might be clearly traced as having
occurred from the Biver Ure, a distance of fall a quarter of a mile, and they
would see that the waterfisJl was certainly going back slowly but yet sensibly.
The consideration of this and of aH matters connected with the study of
geology would tend to show them that a regular process was going on in
nature — pmlucing changes highly curious and interesting. These changes,
tiiough they might not be so violent as those which were shown to have
taken place under older geological forms, would yet prove, under considera-
tion, that nature was consistent in her methods of producing phenomena,
and that the effects which were produced by nature were under the control
of a law ; that that law is guided by an intelligence which is of a kind not
to be eappoaed mutable as our vain fancies might be ; but an intelligence
that had presided through times which it was vain for us to think of
measuring ; and which, as it had known no limit in the past, neither had it
any limit in the future.
BivEBS. — The principal rivers in Yoriuhire are the Ouse, the Swale, the
Ure, the Wharfe, the Derwent, the Aire, the Calder, the Don, the Hull, the
Tees, and the Esk, all of which, except the two last, pour their waters through
the great estuaiy of the Humber.
The Tees rises in the mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland, and
pursues a serpentine course along the south margin of the County of Dur-
ham, which it divides from the North Riding of Yorkshire throughout the
whdie extent. It flows through the fine Vale of Teesdale, where it receives
several tributary streams, and after passing Barnard Castie, Yarm, and
Stockton, falls into the German Ocean, bdow the latter town. The Tees is
navigaUe for vessels of 60 tons burthen up to Stockton, but the channel is
serpentine and intricate, and the current rapid. Below Stockton the river
expands into a large bay about three miles broad. The estuary of the Tees
is a place of great safety for vessels in stormy weather.
The Swale is the next in geographical position, and it has its source in the
western extremity of the North Biding of Yorkshire, and after watering the
98 DESCRIPTION OF TOBXSHIRE.
romantio dale to which it gives name (Swaledale) and passing Richmond and
Catterick, it enters the Vale of York, where it leceiyes the small river Wiake,
and continues its course till it joins the Ure at M jton, a few miles below
Boroughbridge. The Swale is navigable only for a very few miles. Lam-
bard, Bede, and other early writers tell us, that Paolinus, the first Archbishop
of York, baptised 10,000 persons in this river in one day, — '* by cause at
that tyme theare weare no churches or oratories yet buylt** The river is
supposed to have been called Suale ficom the Saxon word SwaUWf " by reason
of the swift course of the same.*'
The Ure or Yore, which is one and the same river with the Ouse, directs
its course eastward from its source on the elevated moorland between York*
shire and Westmorland, and below Askrigg it forms a remarkably fine
waterfall called Aysgarth Force, The whole waters flail over a rugged lime-
stone rock into a narrow channel, and form a succession of picturesque
waterfiadls. After passing through Middleham, Masham, Ripon, Borough*
bridge, and Aldborough, it joins the Swale at Myton, and the united waters
then continue their course to about six miles bdow Boroughbridge, where
they take the name of the Ouse, ttom an insignificant rivulet with which
they there form a junction.
The Ouee, or the Northern Ouse as it is sometimes called, to distinguish
it from the river of the same name in Buckinghamshire, is'fbimed, as we
have just shown, by the union of the Swale and Ure, and it runs southward
receiving the waters of the Nidd, at Nun-Monkton ; thence it flows gently to
York, where it is joined by the Foss, and afterwards bounds the East and
West Ridings. At Nun-Appleton it is increased by the waters of the
Wharfe ; and after passing Selby to its successive junctions with the Derwent,
the Aire, and the Don, it falls into the Humber, at its confluence also with
the Trent. This fine river is navigable throughout its whole course, and is
the great drain of all Yorkshire.
The Humber. This noble river — the Thames of the midland and northern
counties of England — divides the East Riding of Yorkshire from Lincoln-
shire during the whole of its course. It is formed, as we have just observed,
by the junction of the Ouse and Trent At Bromfleet it receives the little
river Foulness, and rolling its vast collection of waters eastward, in a stream
enlaxiged to between two and three miles in breadth, washes the town of
Hull, where it receives the river of the same name. Opposite to Hedon and
Paull, which are a few miles below Hull, the Humber widens into a vast
estuary, six or seven miles in breadth, and then directs its course past
Great Grimsby, to the German Ocean, which it enters at Spurn Head. No
DSSCBIPnOK OF YOBKSHIBE. M
olher river STstem collects waters from so many pomts, and cotmects so
many important towns, as this noble stream. ''The Hnmber/* says a
reoent writer, ^'resembling the trunk of a vast tree spreading its branches
in eveiy direction, commands, by the numerous rivers which it receives,
the navigation and trade of a veiy extensive and commercial part of
Cngland^**
The Homber is navigable up to Hull for ships of the laigest burthen; the
Hnmber and the Quae, up to the port of Groole, for vessek drawing not more
than 16 feet of water; and to York for those of 140 tons burthen. The
distance from Hull to York by water is about 80 miles. Above the city of
York the Ouse is navigable as far as Boioughbridge, a distance of 20 miles,
for barges of 80 tons. The whole course of the Ure, Ouse, and Humber, is
about 160 miles.
The tpring tide$ rise at Hull more than twenty feet, and at York from two
to two and a half feet, but they formerly rose at that place four feet In
1648, it is recorded that a ^ring tide at Ouse bridge rose to the height of
five feet Some of the " land floods " have risen here to a veiy great height
In 173d, the Ouse at York rose in one night nearly nine feet, and filled the
streets in the lower parts of the city; and in December, 1768, the water rose
at the same place twenty inches higher, and was seventy-five feet above the
low water vuA of dry seasons.
Of the river Humber — ^the Ahu$ of Ptolemy — ^that quaint old author,
Lambard, writes thus : — " Humber is not the name of any one water within
Ingbnde, bat is a name that is gyven to the metinge of many waters, and
therfere Ldande contendeth reasonablye that it should be called Aber, which
in the Bryttishe is the same that the Saxons and we nowe calle the mouthe
of a lyver; for it hathe not the name of Humber till it approche neare
Kingston-on-Hull, before which tyme it hathe receyved Ouse, Ure, Done,
Trent, Hull water, and some other smal brokes, and so openeth into the sea ;
and theribre Humber hathe not as a lyver of itselfe anye begginninge, (as
Polydor and others describe) but may wel inoughe be said to begynne wi^e
the head of any of those lyvers which it reoeyveth. It should seme that
Ptolemy ment this lyver when he speaketh of Abus, so callinge the same
that ihe Biyttons called Aber. Gefifrey of Monmouthe, the leader of our
Inglishe ChroniclerB, sayeth that it was called Humber by occasion that
Locrine, the ddest son of Brutus, chased Humber, the Kinge of the Hunnes
(that anyved in his country) into this water, wheare he was drowned.
Dam Aigit obstat ei flnmen, submergitnr illie,
Deque sue tribait nomixie nomen aquK.
80 DBSGBIPnOK OF T0BK8HIBE*
After that ihe Saxons weare coma in great nomber into this ile, they M at
variance among themselves, in so much that Ethelbert, Kinge of Kent, (which
receyved Augustine) warringe upon the rest, enlarged his dominion to this
water; herof b^an the people beyonde the same to be called Northumbera,
and their Kingdome Northumberland. This ryver, and the Thamis, (as
Polydor observeth) do not so comonly overfiowe their banks, as other waters
within the realme, which he imputeth probablye to the qualitie of the ground
undemeathe, which being gravel soketh muche ; but the cause of the groweth
no lesse, by reason that theise twoe waters be not neighboured with so many
hilles, as Severn and others be, from which eveiy sodeine rayne descendinge
into the ryvers, causeth theim to swell sodenlye also.'*
And here we make a slight digression for the purpose of glancing at a
subject which may not be considered altogether irrelevant, viz : — ** The Dia*
lects North and South of the Humber compared. " At the meeting of the
British Association held in Hull in 1853, Charles Beckett, £sq., M.RXD.S.,
read an interesting paper on this subject. He commenced by observing that
the boundaries of English counties were various, and often aibitraiy — the
most natural being riven. The river Humber, from its widtii and length,
had always formed a most distinct boundary, not only between two different
counties, but also between two classes of peasantry, differing much in many
respects — in origin, physiognomy, manners, conformation, and also in dialect.
Large eiddences exist of Danish origin in the names of towns and villages in
both counties ; no less than 313 places terminating in 6y in Lincolnshire ;
whilst in the North and East Riding of Yorkshire 185 of the same were found.
This termination always pointed out a Danish origin. Several other Danish
names of places, persons, and other things, were also found to exist. The
distinction between the peasantry north and south of the Humber could not
escape the attentive observer. The Lincolnshire peasant was somewhat
more phlegmatic, his physiognomy less marked and acute, and the £ace more
oval in form than the Yorkshire one. His maimer is more amicable and
polite, but less decisive and acute. This harmonizes not only with his own
appearance, but, singularly, also with the general mildness of the aspect of
the landscape arotmd him. These inquiries were the more interesting,
because the progress of civilization increased travelling facilities, and the
lapse of time tends rapidly to eSajce these ethnological distinctions. The
successive irruptions of the Boman, Saxon, Danish, and Norman people into
this country were analogous to the warping of low land by successive tides ;
the existing language being a rich alluvium left by them all. Yorkshire had
probably several dialects; Lincolnshire two, according to HalliweU — the
BSSOAimOK OP YOfiXBHIRS. ^1
iiorlih and the south. Both agreed in the broad ptonunciations of many
sjUableSy as» for instance, changing one into two ; as sea, se-ah ; seat, se-at ;
beast, bee-ast Both use many archaic words— each county, howerer, having
its own. The intonations and inflexions of the voice vaiy also in the two
ooanties. But the chief difference lay in the relative value of the two Towels
i and o being rendered ei in Yorkshire, and double or long % in Lincolnshire,
as' wife, weife, wiife; life, leife, liife, respectively. These apparently trivial
difierences were in fact sufficient to change the whole character of the
Temacular speech. The o, also, had similar varieties ; thus in Yorkshire we
have now, noo ; and thou, thoo. In Lincolnshire these would be thaou, naau.
Some other characteristics were also mentioned. On the whole, the Lincoln-
ahixe dialect was more soft and agreeable, contained fewer obsolete words
and accents, and approached more nearly to pure speech. The paper closed
by enquiring how far climate and the social history and progress of the
two counties might have operated along with some differences of origin, in
h^ing to these interesting and probably transient ethnological distinctions.
At ^e same meeting. Sir Charles Anderson, Bart, read a paper on " The
influence of the invasion of the Danes and Scandinavians, in early times, on
certain localities in £ngland." The talented lecturer said, that having lately
visited Denmark and the northern parts of Europe, he had been much struck
with the similarity pervading the Danish and English languages. This
siniilaritj he ascribed to the influence which the Danes possessed when they
made a conquest of this island, and planted themselves as settlers in it, and
he gave sevenl examples in support of his assertion, which fully identified
the two languages.
The river HuU rises in the Eastern Wolds, near Driffield, and pursues a
southern course to the eastward of the town of Beverley, with which it is
united by a canal; and it flails into the Humber at Kingston-upon-Hull,
where it forms a secure but contracted haven. This river serves to drain
the whole country between the Wolds and the sea ; and historians tell us
that the portion of this river between the Humber and " Sculcotes goto " was
originally cut by Sayer de Sutton, to drain the marshes within his lordship
of Sutton. In a charter of Richard 11, this part of the river is said to have
pieviottsly been named Sayer Creek. Mr. Frost thinks that the drain called
Sayer Creek was cut by Sayer de Sutton so early as the reign of King John.
The river Hull is navigable to Frodingham Bridge, several miles above
Beveriey; and thence to Great Driffield by means of a canal. Another
canal extends eastward from the river Hull to Leven, a length of about
three miles.
8d DESOBIPnON OF YOBKflHTBK.
AU the local historians, except Mr. Frost, assert that the river Hull in
former times discharged itself into the Hamber to the eastward of the present
river; but that gentleman found abundant evidence in the registers and
histories of the Abbey of Meaux» to show that its ancient coarse lay to the
westward of the present channel ; and he thinks that the frequent notice of
Old Hull as one of the boundaries of lands without the walls to the westward
of the town, would of itself be amply sufficient to establish the fiu^t, without
the corroborative proof afforded by the registries of Meaux, which are con-
clusive on the subject.* That veiy diligent author informs us, that in the
Book of Meux, the ancient river is described as having divided the wapen-
takes of Holdemess and HarthiU, and that New Hull, which had formeriy
been called Sayer Creek, and had become a great river, in consequence of
the channel of Old Hull having warped up, was afterwards the dividing
boundary of the districts of Holdemess and Harthill ; and that a part of the
village of Wyke or Hull, which had previously been within the limits of
Holdemess, being then separated by the river, became a member of the
wapentake of Harthill.
The Wharf € rises at the foot of the Craven Hills, winds its course through
the district of Wharfdale, and passing Tadcaster, joins the Ouse at Nun-
Appleton. It is navigable as fiEur as Tadcaster.
The Derwent has its head in the Eastern Moorlands, in the North Biding,
within about four miles of the sea. After running in a line almost parallel
with the coast to the foot of the Wdds, it takes a westerly direction till it
receives the Bye, from Helmsley ; thence by Malton, Gkite-Helmsley, and
Stamford Bridge, to the Ouse, near Barmby, from which it is navigable for
vessels of twenty-five tons burthen, to Malton, and above which town the
navigation has been continued to Yedingham Bridge, a further distance of
about nine miles. From its junction with the small river Hertford, near
its source, the Derwent divides the North and East Bidings till it approaches
near Stamford Bridge, where it enters the East Biding.
The Avre, one of the most considerable rivers in Yorkshire, takes its rise
in some wild moors near Malham, in the north west quarter of the West
Biding, and runs past Skipton and Bingley to Leeds. Twelve miles below
the latter town, near Castleford, it receives the Calder, and passing Snaidi,
it joins the Ouse three miles south west of Howden, a little below Armin.
The Aire becomes navigable at Leeds, where it forms a junction with the
Leeds and Liverpool canaL Camden says, the course of the Aire is so
• EVott's HisUnio Notices of Kingston-iipQn.Hull, p. 38, 83.
DESCRIPTION OF TORKSHIBB. 33
ielj crooked, that be crossed it seven times in travelling half an hour
in a straight line.
The Colder rises on the eastern border of Lancashire, not tax from
BxmoleT, and porsaes an eastward course through Todmorden valley, to
Wakefield ; it then turns to the north till it joins the Aire, at Castleford.
lia 1758, an Act was passed for extending the navigation of the Calder to
Sowerby bridge, in the parish of Halifex, and for making the Hobble
nsvigable from Brooksmouth to Salterhebble bridge. In 1825, an Act was
passed for making a cat from this canal at Salterhebble, to Bailej Hall near
Hali&x. This river is connected with various canals, which form a water
cotniminicatkm across the kingdom from Hull to Liverpool, as well as a
junction between the eastern and western seas.
The D(m has its source in the western moors beyond Peimiston, and flows
by Sheffield, Rotherham, Doncaster, and Bawcliffe bridge, to Goole, where
it &119 into the Ouse. In its course it is joined by the Hodbeck, the Wente,
the Bother, and other tributaries, and by several canals. The lower part of
the channel of the Don, from the vicinity of Snaith, is artificial, and is
QsaaDy called the Dutch river. In 1751 this river was made navigable to
Tinsley, three miles below Sheffield ; and by an Act of Parliament passed in
1815, this navigation has been continued by a cut, called the Tinsley canal,
to Sheffield.
The Esk has many sources in the centre of the Eastern Moorland dales,
and flowing eastward, receives various streams, imtQ it falls into the North
Sea at Whitby, dividing that town into two nearly equal parts, which are
connected by a draw-bridge. On the 17th July, 1761, the spring tides rose
and fell here four times in less than half an hour.
The Fobs rises near Cndke Castle, and joins the Ouse at York. The
ebannel of this river is believed to have been originally formed by the Ko-
mans, to effect the drainage of an extensive level tract lying between the
Ouse and the Howardian Hills, near the western extremity of which it has
its source. Leland, in enumerating the rivers which water the forest of
Galtres, says ''The Fosse, a slow stream, yet able to bear a good vessel,
rjaeth in nemore Calaterio, or amongst the woody hills now called Galtres
Forest, and in its descent from the highest ground, leaveth Crayke on the
west side, thence it goeth by Maiton Abbey, Marton, Stillington; FarUngton,
Towthorpe, Erswick, Huntingdon, &c., at York into the Ouse."
The Kidd rises in Netherdale, and passing by Knaresborough, enters the
Ouse at Nun-Monkton.
The Canals of Yorkshire are numerous, but are chiefly in the West
F
84 DESCRIPTION OF YOBK8HIRE.
Hiding ; and the county is so intersected bj BaiUcays, that there are few
towns or good villages without a railway station. There are 420 miles of
railway in the West Riding, and the land occupied by railways is 5,392 acres.
It appears from a return recently issued by the railway companies in England
and Wales, that the total acreage of the parishes through which the various
railways pass, is 9,177,190 ; and the acreage of the land occupied by the
railways is 66,047, or 071 per cent The aggregate length of railway in the
various parishes is 6,637 miles ; and the average quantity of land occupied
per mile of railway, is 11-68 acres. There is one mile of railway to every
162,802 acres of land.*
Antiquities, — Besides the Roman remains which are noticed at subsequent
pages, the most remarkable antiquities exist in the relics of ancient castles
and religious edifices. The only remains of Roman structures now to be
seen at York are the polygonal tower, and the south wall of the Mint Yard.
Roman urns have been discovered in several situations near the stations and
roads of that people ; and a vast variety of Roman antiquities have, at dif-
ferent times, been found in York and its vicinity, such as altars, sepulchral
and other urns, sarcophagi, coins, signets, &o. Many ancient tumuli are
discemable in various parts of the county, particularly on the Wolds ; and
besides the Roman encampments, others of the Saxons and the Danes may
be traced in several places in the North and West Ridings. Near Borough-
bridge are three gigantic obelisks of single stones, commonly called the
Devil's Arrows, by some thought to be Druidical, and by others supposed to
be of Roman origin. About nine miles N.W. of Ripon is a remarkable
assemblage of rocks called Bramham Crags, which are conjectured to have
been a Druidical temple.
The chief remains of ancient Castles or Fortresses are CliflEbrd's Tower at
York; and in the West Riding, the castles of Conisbrough, Harewood,
Knaresborough, Pontefract, Great Sandall, Skipton, and Tickhill; in the
North Riding, the castles of Helmsley, Malton, Middleham, Mulgrave,
Pickering, Richmond, Scarborough, Sheriff Hutton, and Skelton; and
* From the some return we learn that the railway companies in England and Wales
contributed towards the poor rates ^187,614. in 1851, and jC186,539. in 1852 ; while the
total amount collected in the parishes through which they pass, amounted to jC3,I89,135.
in the year ending Lady-day, 1851, and £3,113,926. ending at the same period in 1852.
So that the railway companies paid in the year ending Lady-day, 1852, 5'99 per cent, of
the whole, or nearly 6 per cent, of the rates for occupying 0*71 per cent, of the land,
being 8*43 times the amount of the sum paid per acre by the parishes. The average
amount paid by the parishes for the poor rates is 6* 78s. per acre, while that paid by the
railway companies for the land they occupy, is £287. per acre.
DB8CRIPTI0N OF TORKSHIRE. 35
Wresadl in the East Biding. The most remarkable ancient mansions are,
Temple Newsom, near Leeds; and Oilling Castle, near Helmsley. The
latter was formerly the seat of the ancient fia,mily of Fairfax. There are
likewise several ancient mansions injdifferent parts of the county, but now
ccmTerted into farm houses.
The number of ancient Beligious Houses, or Monastic Institutions, in the
county was, according to Benton,* 14 Abbeys, 44 Priories, 7 Alien Priories,
18 Cells and 23 Friaries of various orders. The beautiful and picturesque
rains of many of them denote their former splendour. The principal ruins
of abbeys are those of St. Mary's at York ; Fountains, Boche, Kirkstall, and
Selbj, in the West Biding ; and Byland, Bivaulx, Easby, Eggleston, and
Whitby, in the North Biding. The chief ruins of priories are those of
Bolton and Knaresborough, in the West Biding ; Guisborough, Mountgrace,
and Wykeham, in the North Biding; and Bridlington, Kirkham, and
Watton, in the East Biding.
Mineral Springs, <tc, — ^The chalybeate and sulphureous springs of Harro-
ffoU are of great celebrity. They were discovered in 1571, and have rendered
that once obscure hamlet one of the principal watering places in England.
The springs of Askeme, about eight miles north of Doncaster, much resemble
those of Harrogate, both in smell and taste, but differ from them in their
operation. The chalybeate and saline springs of Scarborough, discovered
early in the 17th century, have long been celebrated ; and there is also a
famous chalybeate spring at Bridlington Quay. There are, besides, mineral
springs of various qualities at Aldfield, Boston, Gilthwaite, Horley Green,
Hkley, and Enaresborough, in the West Biding; and at Malton, in the
North Biding. A mineral spring was discovered near Guisborough, in May,
189d, which is much resorted to; — the waters are diuretic. At Enares-
borough is the celebrated Dropping and Petrifying Well ; and at the bottom
of Giggleswick Scar, near the village of Giggleswick, is a spring which ebbs
and flows at irregular periods. On the Wolds, and near Cottingham, on
their eastern side, are periodical springs, which sometimes emit very powerful
streams of water for a few months successively, and then become dry for
years.
Amongst the most remarkable WaterfcMs in the coimty are Thornton Force,
near the village of Ingleton, in the West Biding, and in the vicinity of
Thornton Scar, a tremendous cliff of about 800 feet in height. The Force
IB formed by a smaU stream, which is driven down a precipice of about 90
• Monasticon EboracenM.
36 DESCaiPTION OF T0BK8HI&E*
feet in height. The cataract of Malham Cove, which is 800 feet high ; and
Aysgarth Force; Hardrow Fall; High Force, in the Tees; Mallin Spout;
Egton ; and Mossdale Fall ; all in the North Biding.
There are several curious Caves, which may be classed among the natural
curiosities of the county ; of which, that near Ingleton, among the Craven
mountains ; Yordas Cave and Weathercote Cave, in the latter of which is a
stupendous cataract of 60 feet fall ; Hurtlepot and Ginglepot, near the head of
the subterranean river Wease, or Greta ; and Donk Cave, near the foot of
Ingleborough, are the principal. In the same neighbourhood, at the foot of
the mountain Pennigant, are two frightful orifices called Hulpit and Huntpit
Holes, through each of which runs a subterraneous brook, about a mile in
length, and emerging, one at Dowgill Scar, and the other at Bransil Head.
Franchise, dc. — Previous to the year 1832, when the Reform Bill became
the law of the laud, Yorkshire returned to Parliament two members for the
county, and two each for the boroughs of Aldborough, Beverley, Borough-
bhdge^ Hedon, Kingston-upon-Hull, Enaresborough, New Malton, North-
allerton, Pontefract, Richmond,* Ripon, Scarborough, Thirsk, and York.
Under that Act two members are returned for each of the three Ridings ;
the boroughs of Aldborough, Boroughbridge, and Hedon, were disfranchised ;
those of Northallerton and Thirsk were deprived of one member each;
Bradford, Halifax, Leeds, and Sheffield, were granted two members each ;
and Huddersfield, Whitby, and Wakefield, one member each ; so that there
are now in Yorkshire seven new, and elet^en old, Parliamentary boroughs,
which, with two members each for the three Ridings, returns no less than
37 Members to Parliament.
Yorkshire is included in the Northern Circuit, The Assizes are held in
York, where is the county gaol ; the Quarter Sessions for the North Riding,
at Northallerton ; and for the East Riding, at Beverley ; the Easter Quarter
Sessions for the West Riding, at Pontefract ; the Midsummer, at Skipton,
adjourned to Bradford and Rotherham ; the Michaelmas, at Knaresborough,
adjourned to Leeds and Sheffield ; and the Christmas Sessions, at Wetherby,
adjourned to Wakefield and Doncaster.
The Inhabitants of Yorkshire are social, humane, industrious, frnigal, and
enlightened ; and the familiarity that prevails amongst the different grades
of society is an admirable trait in their character. The Yorkshire temple of
fame records a numerous list of worthies, eminent in charity, literature, the
arts and sciences, and in arms ; most of whom are noticed in the histories of
the towns and parishes where they were respectively bom or flourished.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Fboic the coDcuiTOiit testimony of the earliest historians, it is certain that
the aborigines of Great Britain were several tribes of Gallic Celts, who emi-
grated from the contihent, and settled here at least a thousand years before
the Christian era, The whole of the southern coast of the island appears to
have been peopled before either its more northern or the midland districts
had been penetrated. As the descendants of the original settlers increased
in number, and new bands of emigrants, or, as thej have been technioallj
named, waves of population, successively arrived from the mother country,
the backwoods were gradually cleared, till at length the whole island became
inhabited. Besides the testimony of ancient authorities, the position of the
two countries (Gaul and Britain), and the resemblance of manners and cus-
toms, we have the clear and strong testimony of language, to prove the one
people to have ^rung from the other. The Celtic language, though in
divided portions, is still known amongst us. One branch of it, called the
Gaelic, is spoken by the native Irish, by the Scottish Highlanders, and in
the Isle of Man ; the other was formerly current in the county of Cornwall,
and is still spoken in Wales and Lower Brittany. The Gaelic or Celtic race
not only took possession of this kingdom, but actually overrun the continent
of Europe, from the fieo-thest shores of Ireland to the banks of the Danube.
The eariy Greek writers knew Htde of Western Europe, and Herodotus, who
wrote in the middle of the fifth c^itiuy before the coming of Christ, had but
an indistinct nodon of the British Isles, under the general term of Cassi-
terides, or the Tin Islands, as the grand source from which the Phcenicians
derived their supply of that metal. The earUest mdhtion of oiur islands by
their names, is made by the philosopher Aristotle, who lived a century later
than Herodotus. In alluding to the ocean without the Pillars of Hercules,
(the straits of Gibraltar) he tells us there were " two islands, which are very
large, Albion and Jeme, called the Britannic, which lie beyond the Celtse."
88 OEMERAL HI9T0BT OF TORKSHIBE.
Polybius, another Greek histx>rian, who wrote about 150 jears before the
Christian era, speaks of the " Britannic Ides/' but adds nothing to our
knowledge of tiiem. He tells us that firom a yeiy early period of the history
of the world, the Phoenician merchants obtained their supply of tin (an
article in use as far back as the time of Homer) from Britain. As this metal
is found chiefly in Cornwall and the Scilly Islands, the parts of Britain which
would flrst present themselves to the navigators from the PhoBnician port on
the coast of Spain, Gadeira, or Gades (the modem Cadiz) would be these
places and the south of Ireland. Another Greek writer, Diodorus Siculus,
informs us that the tin was carried firom the district in which it was found,
to an island ** in fi*ont of Britain," named Ictis, apparently the Isle of Wight,
where it was purchased by native merchants, who transported it to Gaul,
and it was then carried overland on pack horses, a journey of thirty days, to
the mouth of the Rhone. If we except the allusions made to the trade in
tin, by the early Greek writers, everything relating to this distant region,
almost unconnected with the world as then known, was wrapped in
mystery, and continued so until the veil was at length drawn aside by the
ambition of Julius CsBsar.
Ireland is supposed to have been peopled (at least in part) from the coasts
of the west of Britain, at the same time that the aboriginal Celts emigrated
to England. The former island, known to the Romand by the names of
Hibemia and Juvema, appears to have been tolerably well known in the age
of Ptolemy, who gives us a description of its coasts, and enumerates the
tribes and towns both in the maritime districts and in the interior. Three
at least of the tribes who held the eastern coast of Ireland, the Brigantes,
the Menapii, and the Yoluntii, were, no doubt, colonies from the opposite
shores of Britain.
It was to one of the Celtic bands of foreign invaders, who inhabited
Ireland, that the epithet Scots was flrst applied. Different interpretations of
this word have been given, but the most probable is the same with the modem
Gaelic term Scuit or 8c<tait, signifying a ** wandering horde.'* From Ireland
a branch of the Scots passed over into Scotland, and eventually gave their
name to that coimtry ; though a part of it had long before been peopled by the
Caledonians or CavWdaoin, that is, '< men of the woods." The Gauls who first
inhabited Britain'*' were distinguished, not only for their good natural capa-
* The original name of this island, Albion, is that by which it still continues to be
designated in the language of our Scottish Qael. They call it AUnnn, Inn 13 the' Qallio
term for a *' large island;" AVb^ though not now used by the Scottish Gael, anciently aig-
nifled whitt: Albinn therefore means the ** 'White Island," a name probaUy given to
GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RS8HIRE. 80
eitj, bat for their valour, and their pledged fidelity to aid each other against
the attacks and incursions of all foreign powers. Their persons were tall,
their clothing was untanned skinS) and they painted the naked parts of their
body with a blue dye extracted from woad, decorating the skin with figures
of Tanous objects, particularly the heavenly bodies; and they shaved all
their beard except on the upper lip, which they suffered to grow to a great
length. The barbarous practice of tatooing was long in use among the more
northern Britons; it was a custom amongst the Picts as late as the fifth cen-
tury. Their towns were a confused assemblage of huts, covered with turf
or duns, little superior to the kraals of the Hottentots, and for the sake of
secnrity, generally planted in the midst of woods and morasses, and sur-
rounded with palisadoes of trees piled upon each other, like the fortification
observed at this day among the New Zealanders. They seem to have been
able to fabricate warlike weapons from metals. Their arms were small tar-
gets, and swords, and spears; and in battle they used a very formidable kind
of chariot, which was armed witJi iron scythes, projecting from the axle.
Tbey were governed by chiefs, and the great mass of the people, as we
leam from Caesar, were in a state of servile dependance, the mere slaves or
Berh of a peering nobility. The general food of the tribes, inhabiting the
soathem districts of England, was milk, and the flesh of their herds, super-
stition having forbid the use of fish, and several kinds of animal food; but
the poor savages of the north subsisted principally by hunting and the spon-
taneous fruits of the earth. These Ancient Britons had made some progress
towards civilization in the southern parts of the island, prior to the period
of the Boman invasion, but all the northern tribes were as wild and uncul-
tivated as their native hills.
Their religion, which formed part of their monarchial government, was
Druidical. Its origin is not known with any degree of certainty, though
some affirm that it was first introduced into England by the Phoenicians ;
whilst others contend that the Druids accompanied the Celts in early ages
from the east They adored under different appellations the same Gods as
Great Britain from the chalk cliffs which it presented to the view of the people on the
opposite coast. Namerous interpretations have been given of the word Britain; the most
probable perhaps, of which, is that advanced by Whitaker, the historian of Manchester.
Brii, he maintains, signifies "the divided" or "separated;" and the termination in, is
notfaing more than the sign of the plural according to the usual mode of declension in
the Gaelie tongae. BrUin therefore were the separated people or the emigrants, as we
thould say, — those who had removed from the rest of their countrymen in Ghml, and
settled in AWifm; and thus it would appear that the name Britain, which is now given
to the ialand, was originally applied to its inhabitants.
40 OBKERAL HISTORT OF YORgBHTRB.
the Greeks and Romans. Pluto they considered as iheir progenitor; Apollo,
Mars, Jupiter, Minerva, and Mercury were severally worshipped. To these,
the superior Gods, they added a multitude of local deities, the genii of the
woods, rivers, and mountains. They worshipped in high places, and in deep
groves, and adored the God of Nature, and rendered him praise on the yearly
succession of the seasons, which they kept as solemn festivals. They did
not worship idols in the human or any other shape, hut one of their tenets
inculcated the invisibility of the deity, and that consequently he ought to be
adored without being seen. They dwelt largely in allegory, aod symbolical
representations, and clearly explained their superstitious rites and mytholo-
gical observances to the initiated, but to none else : initiation therefore became
a point of primary importance vrith every individual who was ambitious of
exalting himself to eminence in any station of life, whether civil, military,
or religious.
On the oak they looked with peculiar reverence. This monarch of the
forest, from its strength and durability, was considered as the most appro-
priate emblem of the divinity. The tree and its productions were deemed
holy; and if it chanced to produce the mistletoe, the whole tribe was sum-
moned to gather it; two white heifers were immolated under its branches;
the chief Druid cut the sacred plant with a golden knife, with much pomp
and ceremony; and a religious feast tehninated the ceremonies of the day.*
Their sacrifices in times of peace were the fruits of the earth ; in war they
« One of the greatest festivals of the Braids was the WitiUr's SoUtiee, which they
held about the same period of the year at which we celebrate the festival of Christmas;
and hence the practice of adorning our houses with Mistletoe (a sacred plant with the
Druids) has been derived from the use of that plant in the religious observances of that
people. The mistletoe was dedicated to Friga, the Venus of the Scandinavians; and as
she was the goddess of love, hence arose the custom of kissing under the mistletoe.
The festival of the SalumaUa was introduced by the Romans, and was united with the
winter festival of the Druids. The HoUy was dedicated to Saturn; and as the fetes of
that deity were celebrated at the same time, the Bomans were accustomed to decorate
their houses with hoUy. The Soman laurel was entwined with the Druidical mistletoe,
and the Saxon evergreens with the holly and ivy, to form a garland wherewith to deco-
rate the houses and temples of the people; and so has this custom of decorating our
houses with evergreens remained with us to this day: the early Christians having used
the same observances as their Pagan neighbours, while they were celebrating their fes-
tival at Christmas, in order that they mi^t escape observation. The fostival of the
Winter's Solstice was meant to testify men's joy at the return of the sun, and it obtained
the Anglo-Saxon name of Juul or Yule, a word for which several etymologies have been
assigned. On the eve of the Winter's Solstice, the Anglo-Saxons burnt a large block of
wood as an emblem of returning light and heat, and hence may be traced the still ob-
served custom in England, of burning the yule log.
GEKEAAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE. 41
devoted to the God of battles the spoils of the enemy; bot in the hour of
danger human sacrifices were deemed the most efficacious. To their belief
in the immortality of the soul, they added the absurd fiction of metempsy^
chofiiS) that man is placed in the circle of courses — good and evil being placed
before him for selection. If he prefer the former, his soul, when it leaves
the body, enters the circle of felicity; but if he chooses the latter, death
returns him to the circle of courses, and he is made to do penance for a time
in the body of a beast or reptQe, and then permitted to re-assume the form of
man. According to the predominance of vice or virtue in his disposition, a
repetition of his probation may be necessaiy; but after a certain number of
tn^amigrations, his ofiences will be expiated, and the circle of felicity will
receive him among its inhabitants.
" The worship of the Druids," writes the Rev. George Oliver, " was of a
nature that required silence, secrecy, and space for contemplation. This end
could be obtained by no means so effectually as by placing their sacred tem-
ples in the bosom of an impervious grove of trees, intersected by a labyrinth
of devious and inextricable paths and windings. The veneration for oaks
was patriarchial; it is not, therefore, wonderful that the early Druids esteemed
that tree holy, and solemnly consecrated it to one of their most powerful
deities. The solitude of a grove of branching oaks gave an air of mystery
to their proceedings, and the people were easily persuaded that it was the
peculiar residence of the great and terrible God, who would not fail to inflict
summary punishment on the profane intruder, whose unhallowed feet should
violate the sanctuary, and unauthorized, attempt to penetrate the hidden re-
cesses of the sacred enclosure, where the most holy temple was constructed.***
The sons of chief personages were disciples in the ethic schools of the
Druids, where the rules of moral life were inculcated as the foundation of
human wisdom; and in order to guard the people against any possibility of
sophistry and innovation, their maxims of justice were taught orally. Their
dispensation of justice was not under any written code of laws, but on what
they professed to be equitable principles, all their verdicts being determined
by such a sense of impartial justice as the assembled delegates entertained,
and in a discordance of opinion in the congress, appeal was made to the
Arch-Druid, whose sentence was decisive.
In their civil government, capital offenders were sentenced to death, and
publicly sacrificed in the most awful and solemn manner, whilst those con-
victed of smaller crimes were excluded from public worship, and deprived of
an civil and religious benefits until they sincerely repented.
• History of Beverley, p. 10.
4d OBNERAL HISTORY OF TOBSSHIBB,
The British Dniids exercised their utmost authority in opposing the usur-
pation of the Roman invaders, who, inflamed with resentment, determined
on the utter extermination of the Druidic order, consequentlj its priests were
sacrificed to this inhuman policy; and those who fled to the Isle of Anglesea
perished in the flames hy the orders of Suetonius, and subsequendj great
numbers of them were massacred in the unsuccessful eiBTort of the Britons
under Queen Boadicea. After this period the power and splendour of the
Druids rapidly disappeared.
The original inhabitants of the eastern side of the island, extending from
the Humber to the Tyne, at the period of the Roman invasion, were the
Brigantes,* the most numerous and powerful of all the tribes that then shfyred
the possession of Britain. They were the last of the British tribes that bent
the neck to the Roman yoke. Ptolemy, who wrote about a.d. IdO, asserts
that they reached from sea to sea, the Mersey being their southern, and the
Frith of Solway their northern boundary on the western coast.
"Under this general term, however, appear to have been included the
Vohmtii, to whom belonged the west of Lancashire, and the SistuntUf who
possessed Westmorland and Cumberland; as well as the Parisi, who occu-
pied the southern district of Yorkshire, and who are supposed by Horsley to
have been separated from the proper Brigantes by a line drawn from the Ouse
or Humber to one of the bays on the sea coast north of that river. According
to Richard of Cirencester, the Parisi lived on the eastern point of Brigantuiy
where the promontories of Ocellum (Spurn Head) and of the Brigantes (Flam-
borough Head) stretch into the sea, and their cities were Petuaria and Partus
FeUx, Probably as the capital of the proper Brigantes was on the banks of
the Ure, the river Derwent formed the boundary between the two kindred
tribes, and the present East Riding may safely be assumed to include some-
what more than the extent of territory occupied by the Parisi. "+
The capital or metropolis of the Brigantes is termed by many writers, Iseur ;
by Antoninus, Isu-brigantium, afterwards Isurium, now the small town or
village of Aldborough, near Boroughbridge, in this county.
Richard of Cirencester tells us that Isurium was the chief city of the
province of the Brigantes, although he calls Eboracum (York) their capital.
In a recently-published local work — QilVa VaUu Eboracerms, 8vo., 1852, p.
* The Brigantes appear to have descended from the Helvetii, irhoae emigratioa ia
mentioned hy Cesar. De Bell. Oail, lib. u The word Biigantia is derived by some
writers from bri, a hUl ; gan, a lake ; and tia, country.
t Beverlac, vol. i., p. 2. Portas Felix is placed in Bichard's Map of Britain on Bur-
lington Bay.
OSKBBAL HI8T0BT OF T0BK8H1BB. 4S
484, the history of Isttrium is giyen thus:— "Aldburgh was the Iseur of the
Druids and Britons, the Isurium of the Bomans, the Burgh and afterwards
the Aldbuzgh of the Saxons. It is supposed to have taken its original name
firom Isis, a deity worshipped here, and Euros or Ure, the river near which
the dtf stood. Previous to the Roman conquest it was the seat of the Brig-
antaan kings, and the chief city of this part of Britain. Here reigned, before
the year 50, Yenusius and his Queen, Cartismundua, who were afterwards
subdued by the Roman power, and by whom, after having defended his
country against the Romans for nine successive years, was the brave Carac-
tacus. King of the Silures, treacherously delivered into the hands of his
enemies. The conquest of Britain was completed about the year 70, after
which Isurium Brigantium became the northern metropolis of the Romans,
previous to their removal to £boracum, or York.'* Mr. Thomas Wright, M.A.,
F. S. A., in his Wandering$ of an AtUiquofy^ published in 1864, quotes the
above passage, and then remariu that " all ibis pretended history is entirely
without foundation.'* * * *
"We have no reason for stating," he continues, *' that Isurium was known
to the ' Druids and Britons' by the name of Iseur; the derivation has not even
remote prabability in its favour, and there is not the least ground for sup-
posing that Isis was ever worshipped here; we have not the slightest ground
Ibr stating that it was the seat of the Brigantian Kings, and ito connection
with Yenusius and his Queen is a mere creation of fancy; neither have we
any reason for bdieving that it was ever 'the northern metropolis of the
Romans,* or that they removed from hence to Eboracum. All that we really
know is simply that Isurium must have been one of the earlier Roman towns
in Britain, since it is mentioned by Ptolemy, and that it existed at the time
when the Antonine Itinerary was compiled." Mr. Wright adds that his
object Hot mentioning this is chiefly to warn his readers, and especially the
young antiquary "against the speculative antiquarianism which thus builds
deoq>tive edifices without foundations.'*
Caius Juhus CsBsar, a favourite Roman General, having in the short space
of three years conducted his victorious legions firom the foot of the Alps to
the mouth of the Rhine, descried firom the coast of Morini the white clifEs of
the neighbouring island; and ike conqueror of Gaul aspired to the glory of
adding Britain to the dominions of Rome. The Britons, by lending aid to
his enemies, the Yeneti of Gaul, supplied him with a decent pretext for
hostilities ; and in the Utter part of the summer of the 65th year before the
Chiistaan era, (the exact day, according to Halley, the astronomer, was the 26th
of August), being the 699th year after the foundation of the Roman empire.
44 GENEKAL HI8T0BY OF YOBKSHIRE.
Ctesar sailed from Witaand, on the French coast, between Calais and Bou-
logne, with the infantry of two legions, (12,000 men in about 80 ships,) and
in a few hours he cast anchor before the spot now occupied bj the town of
Deal. The cavalrj was directed to follow in 18 yessels, which were stationed
in a port about eight miles from that in which Csssar embarked. The Roman
fleet left the coast of France at daybreak, and about ten o'clock in the fore-
noon it arrived on the coast of Britain, here formed of low clififs, which were
covered with British warriors, prepared for battle. After waiting in vain for
the arrival of his cavalry until three o'clock in the afternoon, Csssar took ad-
vantage of a favourable wind and tide, and running up about seven miles
further, brought his ships upon an open and level strand, which was more
favourable for the landing of his troops. The natives appeared in multitudes
to oppose their landing, and the Roman troops were seized with alarm at the
novel and formidable appearance of the British warriors, and, imacquainted
with the depth of the water, they were unwilling to leave tlieir ships. At
length, after much hesitation, the standard bearer of the tenth legion, calling
on his fellow soldiers to follow, jumped into the sea. It was some time
before they could reach firm ground ; for the depth of their ships had obliged
them to anchor at a considerable distance from the shore, and they had to
struggle through deep water, while their enemies rode into the water with
their horses and attacked them, or overwhelmed them with missiles from the
beach. As soon, however, as the soldiers obtained a firm footing, they gained
the beach after a short struggle, and the untaught valour of the " naked bar-
barians " was soon made to jrield to the superior discipline of their enemies.
The Britons fled, and the invaders being destitute of cavalry were unable to
pursue them.
Thus did the Romans, for the first time, place their feet on the soil of Britain.
Ccesar had been four days in Britain before his cavalry could put to sea from
the coast of Gaul, and then, although a favourable wind brought them within
sight of the camp, the weather became so stormy that they were driven back
to the port they had left. The storm increased during the night, and Ceesar s
ships, which rode at anchor, were destroyed or much damaged. This acci-
dent caused the British chiefs to form a new conspiracy, with the design of
attacking the Roman camp. A general assault was soon made, and although
it proved unsuccessful, it taught Ccesar to reflect on the evident danger of
his situation, should the inclemency of the winter intemipt his communication
with Gaul. He therefore gladly accepted an illusory promise of submission
from a few of the native chiefs, and returned with his army to Gaid, after a
short absence of three weeks. The ensuing winter was spent by each party
OKKE&AL HI8T0BT OF Y0BK8HIRE. 45
in the most actiTe pieparations ; and in the following spring, CsBsar, with an
army consisting of five legions and d,000 cavalry (30,000 men) saQed fipom
the coast of Gatil, in a fleet of more than 800 ships. At the sight of this
immense armament, the Britons retired with precipitation into the woods ;
and the invaders landed without opposition on the very same spot which they
had occupied the preceding year.
The British chiefs having composed their differences, soon united against
the invaders ; and the latter were exposed to constant attacks, in the course
of which they lost a considerable number of men; for the woods which
covered or skirted the country through which CsBsar marched, gave a secure
shelter to the Britons, and they were thus enabled to harass the Romans, by
sudden and unexpected attacks. At length, after conquering and receiving
the submission of a very larffe tract of country, extendinj? from sea to sea on
the southern side of the iZd; C»s<^ ha^ agreed upon a tribute which
the Britons were to pay annually to the Eoman people, returned to Gaul,
carrying with him the hostages which he had taken from the British chiefs,
as pledges for the fulfilment of a treaty into which th^ had entered with
him* CiB8ar*s expedition to Britain was considered one of the most re-
markable events of the time ; and the victorious commander was looked upon
as one who had carried the Homan arms into "a new world.
During the period of about a century, from the time of Ceesar to that of
Claudius, we have scarcely any information relatlag to the island of Britain.
But in the reign of the latter Emperor, Britain seems to have been disturbed
with civil strife. One of the chiefs, called by Dion Cassius, Bericus, was
compelled to fly finom the island, and took refuge at the court of Claudius, to
whom he explained the state of Britain, and tJie facility with which, at that
momenty it might be conquered. It appears too, that at that time, the
islanders had been very irregular in the payment of their tribute, so that
ClaudiuB was thus supplied with an excuse for hostilities. Accordingly, in
the year 48, that Emperor sent over an army, under the command of a
senator of distinction, named Aulus Plautius, who perfected the conquest of
a great part of Britain.
The first mention of the great tribe of the Brigantes occurs about a.d. 60,
aHer Plautius was recalled to Rome, and when Ostorius Scapula was Governor
or Proprstor of Britain. At that period Caractacus, the brave chief of the
Silures ^Welshmen), was defeated in battle by the Romans, and he fled for
protection to Cartismandua, his stepmother. Queen of the Brigantes. But
instead of assisting or protecting that great warrior against the common
enemy, this unnatural woman delivered him up to the Roman power, from
46 OBNEBAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIAB.
fear of drawing a victorious army into her countiy. The dignified appearanoe
of Caractacus and his feunily at the court of Rome, is the theme of eveiy
Bchoolboj. From Tacitus we learn some particulars of the abandoned Queen
Cartismandua.* She had married one of her chiefs, named Venusius, who
quarried with her because she would not surrender to him the supreme
power oyer her people. She then not only deserted her husband, but con-
signed her person to the embraces of her menial servant Vellocatus. Avitus
Didius Oallus succeeded Ostorius as Propnetor, in the year 5d, and about
the time of his arrival in Britain, a civil war broke out among the Brigantes.
Many of the tribe, disgusted with the conduct of their Queen with r^aid to
Caractacus, placed themselves under the leadership of Venusius, and cried
out against the indignity of being ruled by a woman. Cartismandua's party
appear to have been the strongest, and Venusius was driven from among the
Brigantes. He now placed himself at the head of the party that was in
arms against the invaders, and for some short time was pretty successful.
In the meantime, Cartismandua captured and put to death a brother and
other relatives of her husband ; and he, in revenge, collected his allies, and
being joined by a party of the Brigantes, proceeded to make war on the
Queen, his wife ; she now claimed the protection of the Romans, who imme-
diately sent an army to assist her, and in a well-contested battle the enemies
of the Queen were defeated. In a.d. 60 there was a general revolt of the
Britons, under Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, joined by Venusius with his
Brigantian forces. This valiant princess led the British armies in person
against the legions of Rome; and, in a dreadfol fight at Battle Bridge,
80,000 Britons are said to have been left dead on the field. The reader of
English history is aware that this noble lady died by her own hands to save
herself from infiamy or bonds. In the following year the combined army was
routed by Suetonius Paulinus ; and in the same year the Brigantes revolted
against the authority of Cartismandua, who, after some severe conflicts, was
only rescued with great difficulty by a body cf Roman troops.
In the year 70 Venusius was sole monarch of the Brigantes; but after
several hard-fought battles, in which the Romans were finequently defeated, a
great part of the Brigantian territory was subdued by Petilius Cerealis, in
the reign of the Emperor Vespasian.
British Remains. — There is hardly a comer of England in which the
spade or the plough does not from time to time turn up relics of its 'earlier
inhabitants ; but the British antiquities consist chiefly in the places of sepul-
Tadt. Hist, lib ill, c. 46.
OENEBAL HIBTOBT OF TOBKSHIBB. 47
dure of that people — the barrows, cromlechs, stone circles, together with the
instrameiita of stone and bronze, which are sometimes discovered in the
sepulchral chambers, and frequentLj found in ploughed fields in most parts
of the country.
From the remotest ages it was customaiy to mark to future generations
the kst lesdng place of the honoured dead, bj raising mounds, more or less
eleYEted, according to circumstances connected with the locality, or according
to the power or influence of the deceased. To these sepulchral mounds our
Anglo-Saxon forefathers gave the names of low, (hlcnoj, and barrow, (heorhy
hearw); of which the former is chiefly preserved in names of places, such as
Bartlow, Houndslow, Lowesby, &c, ; while the latter has been generally used
as the technical term for aU ancient sepulchral mounds: both are equivalent
to the Latin tumuku. The British barrows are generally large mounds of
earth covering a rude chamber of rough stones, often of colossal dimensions.
Groups of large stones arranged in this manner have been found scattered
over vaikms parts of the British Islands, as well as in other countries. Our
antiquaries have applied to them the name of cromLecha^ and have in many
cases called them Druid's altars; but recent researches have left no room for
doubt that they are all sepulchral chambers denuded of their mounds. The
word crcmleeh is said to be Celtic, and to have a meaning not differing much
from that of the name dolmen, givrai to them in France, which signifies a
stone table ; and the peasantry of that country often call them Fairies* Tables,
and Devils* Tables. Some of our Geltio antiquaries not satisfied with the
name of Cromlech, had named them Kist^vaens, or, as they interpret it,
stone e^este. The cromlech, in its simplest form, consists of four large
stones, three of which raised on their ends form the sides of a square, while
the fourth serves as the covering, so that the chamber thus formed is usually
closed in only on three sides. In some instances, as they now stand, the
back stcme has been carried away, and the cromlech consists only of three
stones, two standing like the portals of a door, to support the transverse cap-
atone or lintel; in others, where the cromlech has fallen, only two stones are
left, one upright, and the other leaningupon it with one edge on the ground ;
and, in many instances, all that remains of the original cromlech is a single
stone standing upright or lying flat We owe these forms doubtless to the
dilapidations of time, and several examples are known of the destmction of
whole eromlechs to break up the stones for roads or other purposes.
But the cvomleoh, or British sepulchral chamber, was sometimes made
more complicated in its structure than that just described. In some instances
it presents the form of a ponderous ciqp-stone, supported at its oomers by four
48 GENERAL HISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
Stones, aiid leaving the sides of the chamber more or less open. In other
instances the chamber is made more complete) its sides being formed bj a
number of stones joined side by side iwdth one or more very large cap-stones
above. Sometimes more than one cromlech is found under the same mound ;
and in other cases these Celtic sepulchres contain galleries or a series of
chambers under large moimds. Vast works of this kind are found in Brittany
as well as in Ireland. The celebrated Celtic monument in New Grange, in
the county of Meath, contains a chamber 20 feet high, by 30 feet in circum*
ference, and is approached by a narrow passage from the side of the mound,
the entrance to which was closed by a long slab of stone. The monument
at Ashbury, in Berkshire, to which the Saxons attached the name of WelandM
Smiththan (Weknd's Smithy — Weland was the Saxon Vulcan), a name which
has been corrupted to that of Wayland Smith's Cave, appears to have been
originally a gallery, with chambers of this description.
In the year 1816 a very curious monument of the same kind, at Stoney
Littleton, near Wellow, in Somersetshire, was opened, and an account of it
published in the 19th vol. of the Archselogia. The barrow, which was com-
posed of stones instead of earth, was of a very irregular form, measuring in
length 107 feet, its extreme breadth being 54 feet, and its height 13 feet in
its most elevated part. When opened it was found to contain a long galleiy,
with chambers on each side. The reason of the use of stones instead of
earth, in the formation of the mounds or barrows, may be generally traced to
to the natural character of the locality, as such barrows are found most
frequently on spots where stone was much more easily obtained than earth.
In Scotland, where barrows formed of stone are numerous, they are callecl
cairns. The Welsh call them camydd; and in France the sepulchral mounds
of stone are called galgah. The cap-stones of some of the cromlechs in
England are of immense size; that of the cromlech in the parish of Morvan,
in Cornwall, called Chto-Quoit, is calculated to weigh about 20 tons; the
covering stone of one at Lanyon, in the parish of Madron, in the same county,
weighs about 15 tons; and that of the very remarkable cromlech on the hill
between Maidstone and Kochester, in Kent, known by the name of Eits-Coty
House, has been estimated at 10^ tons. Others are much smaller. The
base of the larger sepulchral mounds, and very often of the smaller ones, was
usually defined either by a shallow foss, or by a circle of stones, and some-
times the two were combined. In some instances, especially in CornwaU,
instead of the circle of stones the base of the barrow was supported by a sort
of low wall. The circles of stones are frequently foimd with the cromlechs
in various parts of England; and they are also often found without any
GENERAX HISTOBT OF T0BK8HISE. 49
cromlech in the centre. There are several good examples of the latter in
Cornwall, which measure from 60 to 80 feet in diameter ; and there are
remains of these sepulchral circles on the summit of the lofty Pen-maen-
mawr, in North Wales ; at Little Salkeld» in Cumberland ; at RoUrich, near
Banbury ; and in several other parts of England. The circle at Salkdd,
called in that locality, Long Meg and her Dattghtera, consists of 67 unJieum
upright stones, forming a circle of 350 feet in diameter ; some of the stones
are 10 feet high, and 15 feet in circumference ; and one, which stands about
twelve yards from the others, is 15 feet in circumference, 18 feet high, and
weighs 16^ tons, is called " Long M^," and the others " her daughters."
Near the principal stone, four others form a square, which is doubtless
part of the ancient cromlech. This, like all these sepulchral cirdes, is
situated on elevated ground ; and indeed, in a great number of cases, the
British cromlechs, like the barrows of other periods, are placed on lofty hills,
commanding extensive views of the sea, if on the coast ; or, when inland, of
the surrounding countxy. It seems always to have been the desire of the
British chieftains to be buried in such commanding positions ; and our as-
tonishment is heightened on viewing the stones of many of the cromlechs
and circles, by the consideration that there are no quarries in their immediate
neighbourhood, from which the stones could have been obtained. A fine
cromlech, with a circular base of stonework, at Molfra, in Cornwall, is situated
on a bare hill, which commands a wide range of view over Mount's Bay.
The above-mentioned circle on the top of Pen-maen-mawr, is another extra-
ordinary instance of this kind ; and a third is situated on a lofty hill com-
manding a view of the Scilly Isles. But the Britons must have possessed a
mechanical art of which we are ignorant, by which these stones could* be
removed.
Dr. Stukely asserts that all the great stones forming Stonehenge, on
Salisbuiy Plain, were brought from Marlborough Downs, a distance of 15
miles, and that one of them weighed 40 tons, and would require 140 oxen to
draw it The BoUrich Stones are perhaps the most interesting remains of
the ancient Britons, in the central district of the kingdom : they form a
circle, the diameter of which is 107 feet. Within the circle are the remains
of the cromlech now called the Five Whiepering KnighU, in consequence of
their leaning position towards each other; and which cromlech, Stukely
believed to have formed a Kistawm. The tallest of the five large Knights
is now very nearly 11 feet in height A stone circle, called Arbor-low, in
the peak of Derby, is nearly 150 feet in diameter, and is surrounded by a
deep intrenchment Sometimes the stones forming the sepulchral circle
60 GBNBBAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIfiS.
are nearly equal in size, while in other cases they are very irregular.
It does not necessarily follow that the mounds raised in aU these circles
contained each a cromlech — ^the interments, may, in some cases, have heen
made without a chamher, as it has been found to be the case in some large
barrows.
Antiquarians observed these circles before they noticed how often they ac-
companied cromlechs, or were aware that cromlechs are sepulchral monu-
ments ; and they generally gave them the name of Druids' Circles, imagining
that they were the temples, or courts of justice, or places of assembly of that
order; but it is now quite certain that the ms^ority of them were originally
made to support or inclose sepulchral mounds. The cromlechs, too, which
it is now certain were sepulchral chambers, were untLL lately supposed to be
Druidical altars. In 7e greater number of instoces. the euperincumbent
mound or barrow has been removed, chiefly for the sake of the earth, or
soil; but sometimes, perhaps, in the belief, prevalent during the middle ages,
that treasure was contained under it, and the massive chamber of rough
stones alone has been left standing. Hence the number of cromlechs without
mounds.
With our scanty knowledge of the sulject, it would be rash to assert that
the whole of the stone circles still remaining on our own soil, have been
erected around sepulchral mounds. The greater number of these cireles are
not larger than the basis of ordinary large barrows, and there are sepulchral
mounds known, whose basis are equal to the largest ; yet some few of the
cireles may have been erected for other purposes. The gigantic monuments
of Stonehenge and Abury, or Avebury, are amongst those to which it would
be difficult to assign a cause for their erection. Stonehenge, an Anglo-Saxon
term, meaning the hanging stones, is the most remarkable monument of
antiquity in our island. It, " the great wonder of Salisbury Plain," con-
sisted originally of an outer cirele of 80 upright stones, 14 feet high above
the ground, and 7 feet broad by S feet in thickness, sustaining as many
others, placed horizontally, so as to form a continuous impost.
This differs from other Celtic stone monuments, inasmuch as the stones
have been hewn and squared with tools, and each of the upright stones
had two tenons or projections on the top, which fitted into mortices or hollows
in the superincumbent slabs. Within this circle, which was about 100 feet
in diameter, was another circle, 83 feet in diameter. This again enclosed two
elliptical arrangements of large and small stones. This structure of stones
occupies the centre of an area, inclosed by a cireular entrenchment, consisting
of a ditch and bank, 300 feet in diameter; and it was approached by a wide
GENERAL HI9T0BT OF TOBKSHIBE. 61
entrenched ayenue from the north-east, which, at the- distance of a few hun-
dred leet, hranched off in two ways, running north and east Stonehenge, —
the Chorea Gigantum — Choir of Giants, is a mysterious monument, con-
cerning which no one knows who built it, or how, or why it was built; and
the tradition that Merlin, the magician, brought the stones from Ireland, is
felt to be a poetical homage to the greatness of the work. The ground around
«
Stonehenge is coyered with barrows, and was eyidently the cemetery of a yery
eztenaye tribe.
At the yiUage of Ayebury, about SO miles distant from Stonehenge, is a
series of remarkable circles, which consisted originally of an area of about
1,400 feet in diameter, inclosed by a deep ditch and bank. The space inclosed
by the earthen embankment contains a yillage, with.yarious fields and
buildings, oyer which the stones that remain are scattered in apparent con-
fuaion. At no great distance from the outer circle is a fine cromlech with its
attendant circle of stones.
In the British barrows the body is sometimes found to haye been buried
entire, while in many cases it had been burnt, and the ashes deposited in
rode urns. When the body was interred without cremation or burning, it
WBs sometimes stretched at full length, and at others doubled up and laid on
one side, or sometimes placed in a sitting position. The urns, containing the
burnt bones, are sometimes found in their natural position, and sometimes
inyerted, with the mouth downwards. When upwards, the urn is often
coyered with a flat stone. The different modes of burial seems to haye been
fashions adopted by different fiimilies, or by subdiyisions of tribes or septs ;
though all the different modes of interment are often found in the same
harrow, for some of the barrows seem to haye been feunily grayes, and it is
raze to find only one interment, while the large barrows contain usually a
oonsiderable number of urns and bodies. Throughout these early barrows
there appears much irregularity, and eyidently a good deal of caprice in the
mode of buriaL
Most of the cromlechs, stone circles, and large stones, in yarious parts of
this and other countries, and which, as we haye said haye been classed erro-
neously among Druidic remains, haye attached to them many popular names
and legends; for when thahr meaning, or the object for which they were
erected, were alike forgotten, the monuments continued to be regarded by
the peasantry with reyerence, which, combined with a certain degree of
mysterious fear, degenerated into a sort of superstitious worship.
As we haye seen the peasantry of France denominate the simple cromlechs
. furies* tables and devils* tables, and the more complicated cromlechs are
63 OKNEIUL HI8T0BT OF YORKSHIRE.
similarly named fiuries' grottoes, or fairy rocks. The single stones are some-
times called fairies* or devils' seats. The people of Brittany declare that the
multitade of stones arranged upright in lines at Camac, was an army of
pagans changed into stones hy St. ComiUy. It is the popular belief in Anjou,
that the fairies, as they descended the mountains, spinning by the way,
brought down the great stones in their aprons, and placed them as they are
now found. We have also seen that the Saxons believed that a cromlech in
Berkshire was the workshop of their mythic smith, Weland. A sepulchral
circle in Cornwall is called Dance Maine, or the Dance of Stones, and is said
to be the representation of a party of young damsds, who were turned into
stones because they danced on the Sunday. A cromlech on Marlborough
Downs is called the Devil's Den; and the three gigantic stones near Borough-
bridge are called the Devil's Arrows. According to legend, a party of soldiers
who came to destroy Long Clapton were changed into the Bollrich Stones,
in Oxfordshire. These, and similar legends, are found in every part of our
island, and they are generally good evidence of the great antiquity of the
monuments to which they relate.
It does not appear to have been the custom with the Britons to inter with
their dead many articles of value. By much the greater number of barrows
are found to contain nothing but urns and burnt bones. In some cases a few
instruments of stone or bronze are found ; and in much rarer instances beads
and firagments of other personal ornaments oociur. Traces of a metal covering
for the breast, very thin, and therefore more for ornament than protection,
have also been found with skeletons appeurently of this early date. The most
remarkable discovery of this kind was made in the month of October, 1833,
at Mold, in Flintshire. A barrow, which was called by the Welsh peasantry,
bryn^^Uy-Uon, or the hill of fairies or goblins, and which was believed to be
haunted, was cleared away for agricultural purposes. It was found to contain
interments of urns, &o,, and in another part of the mound was discovered a
skeleton, round the breast of which was a corset of thin gold. This inter-
esting relic is now in the British Museum. There is a curious circumstance
connected with this barrow: before it was opened, a woman of the neighbour-
hood declared, that as she was going home late one night, and had to pass by
it, she saw over the barrow a spectre '^clothed in a coat of gold, which shone
like the sun."
The implements made of stone, which are found in the barrows, are usually
heads of axes or hammers, chisels, and arrow heads ; and these, as well as
stone knives, saws, ^c^, are also found abxmdantly in all parts of the British
Islands, and indeed all over the world. The British urns an m general.
OENEBAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRB. 58
llioagli not always Tery rudely made — ^not baked, but merely dried in the
smi, and haying none of the elegance of the Koman urns.
There are many ancient barrows in Yarious parts of Yorkshire, especially
in the south-eastern part of the county, or the wold district; several of which
liare been opened, and found to contain urns, burnt bones, skeletons, stone
and bronze implements, Sec.; and numax>us relics of our Britidi ancestors
hacve been, tamed up by the plough and spade in Tarious parts of the county.
There are several collections of British coins in the hands of private indi-
vidnflls, as wdl as in the museums, but our knowledge of them is as yet in
its inн and comparatively little has been done towards classifying them
in a satisfiEMstory manner.
Of the domestic buildings of the early Britons there are no remains, nor
axe there any relics of those terrible war-chariots which Cessar describes as
striking tenor into his legions ; but a few British canoes (one of which is in
the museum at York), a few circular shields, some spears, daggers, multi-
tudes of axe heads, arrow heads, Ssc. ; some coarse potteiy, together with the
sepolchml mounds, circles, and cromlechs, elready noticed; and the mighty
earlliworks, which they erected for the defence of the country, are the only
memorials we have of the original inhabitants of our island. And in
speaking of those earthen ramparts, it is difficult to define the precise share
of the ancient Britons in their construction, as compared with the labours
of the Bucoessive occupants of the country; for the Romans, being too wise
a people to be destroyers, naturally improved the old defences of the island,
and adapted them to their own notions of military science ; and the same
remaik will apply to the Danish and Saxon invaders.*
Julius Agricola effected by policy what the Boman legions were unable to
accomplish by coercion, namely, the entire subjugation of the Brigantes.
His admirable prudence led him to introduce amongst the natives of
Britain, the arts and manners of his own nation, and by instilluig into
their minds a taste for the elegancies and luxuries of civilized life, he accom-
plished more in a few years than his predecessors had done by arms for
upwards of a century. The Britons were charmed with the mildness and
justice of his government, and publicly pronounced him their benefactor.
• For a ftiller aeeotmt of the Aborigines of Britain, see a recent work, called " Tb&
Celt, the BoBMn, and the Saxon," by Thomas Wright, Esq., M JL, FJ3JL, ise.
54 aSKERAL HI8T0BY OF TOBKSHIRE.
He received the submisBion of the whole of the Brigantes in the year 79 ;
and from that period the Romans fixed their principal station at Eboracum
(York), and it became the capital of the fourth Roman proyince called Max-
ima CoMfrienM,
Before the close of the first century, the ancient British habits began to
be disesteemed by the chiefs, and regarded as a badge of barbarism. Tacitus,
describing the change which the manners of the Britons underwent, says,
" They, who a little while before disdained the language, now affected the
eloquence of Rome ; this produced an esteem for our dress, and the Toga came
into general.use, by degrees they adopted our vicious indulgences, porticoes,
baths, and splendid tables; this among these uninformed people was called
cultiyation, whereas, in fieu^t, it was only an appendage to slavery."
That politic commander (Julius Agricola), after he had reduced the north
of England, and what is now termed the lowlands of Scotland, in order to
secure his conquests, and to keep the latter district in subjection, erected
a line of forts across what has been termed the upper isthmus, from the Forth
to the Clyde ; and in the reign of Antoninus, LoUius Urbicus raised on the
same site a new chain of fortresses, and joined them together by an immense
continuous rampart of earth and turf, which, from the name of the Emperor
under which it was built, is usually called the Wall of Antoninus. It is now
called popularly Graham's Dike, and along its course are frequently found
inscribed tablets commemorating the portion built by the different troops and
cohorts of the Roman army. Some writers assert that Agricola, in a«d. 84,
also extended ftora Solway Frith to Tynemouth a chain of stations, which in
A.D. 124, were connected by a deep ditch, an earthen rampart, and a great
wall raised by the £mperor Hadrian, or Adrian, as an obstruction to the
sallies of the Caledonians, who obstinately refusing to yield to the imperial
eagle, frequently descended in rage from their mountains, notwithstanding
the barrier raised by Agricola, and penetrating into the Roman territory,
committed dreadful ravages.
After the departure of Agricola, in a.d. 85, this unbending people overrun
a great part of the countiy to the north of the Humber ; and being joined by
numbers of the discontented Britons, who were anxious to throw off their
subjection to a foreign yoke, carried on a predatory war against the Romans.
To quell the revolt, Julius Severus was appointed Governor of Britain, but
was shortly afterwards recalled, and Prisons Licinius was sent to succeed
him. But the Caledonians continuing their incursions, the Emperor Hadrian
himself arrived in Britain, in A.n. 120, to oppose them in person, and fixed
his residence at Eboracum. He brought wiUi him the Sixth Roman Legion,
G£K£1EIAL mSTOBY'OF TOBKSHIBE. 66
styled Legio Sexta Victrixy* which consisted of ahout 6,000 foot and 600
horse ; hut on his approach the invaders retreated. From what he had seen,
Hadrian was convinced that the chain of forts erected hy Agricola, was not
soMcient to resist the assaults of these active and persevering harharians ;
and be determined to confine their incursions hy raising that formidahle
barrier across the island, fi'om the Solway to the Tyne, of which we still
trace tiie stupendous remains. A massive wall, nearly 70 nulesf in length,
extending over plain and mountain, from Bowness, on the Solway Frith, to
the now celehrated locality of Walls-End, near the mouth of the Tyne, ac-
companied on its southern side hy an earthen vallum and a deep ditch.
This celehrated wall was a massive work of masonry, varying from 6 to nearly
10 feet in thickness, and from 18 to 19 feet high. On the north side it was
accompanied hy a foss 86 feet wide, and 16 feet deep. To the south was
another lesser foss, with a triple entrenchment of earth and stones. The
wall was fortified with a formidable series of 23 stationary towns, with inter-
mediate nule castles and watch towers. These towns or stations were a short
distance apart along the line of the wall, and each consisted of a citadel,
strongly waUed, with streets and hahitations within, and often extensive
saburbs without. The smaller fortresses, as we have just observed, stood
between these towns, at the distance of one Koman mile from each other;
and between each of these again were four small subsidiary buildii^gs, which
ior distinction have been termed watch towers. And for its defence were
assigned 4 squadrons and 14 cohorts, composing an army of 10,000 men.
The remains of this great rampart at the present day rises in some parts six
feet above the sva&ce.
Until lately it was the custom of historians to consider the wall only as
the structure raised by Hadrian, while the earthen vallum or rampart was
ascribed to Severus ; but the Rev. J. Collingwood Bruce, of Newcastle-upon
Tjme, clearly proves, in his interesting volume on "The Roman Wall,"
recently published, that both are parts of one work, erected by the former
Emperor. This immense erection seems to have been part of a system of
circumvallation adopted by the Emperor Hadrian, for it appears that remains
of similar walls are found on the distant frontiers in Germany. Having
thus made provision for ^e future security of the province, and having also
• The title Vietrix, or Conquering, was bestowed on those legions distinguished for
some fiaat of extraordinary bravery. The first officer of the legion was called LegoHa
Legionii, and he acted under the superior order of the Greneral of the army of which his
legion formed a part, or the Qovemor of the province where it happened to be stationed.
f The word Mile is derived from MiUiaare, a thousand paces.
56 OENESAL HISTORY OF Y0BK8HIBE.
restored order, and diiven back the Caledomans into their fastnesses, Hadrian
returned to Borne, leaving the Sixth Legion at York, where its head quarters
continued for 800 years.
The expedition of Hadrian to Britain, which was commemorated by several
coins in large and middle brass, seems to have been followed by a period of
profound tranquillity. In a.p. 138, Hadrian was succeeded by the Emperor
Antoninus Pius, whose Propraetor in Britain was Lollius Urbicus, a man of
energy and talent, which he was soon called to exercise in suppressing a new
irruption of the northern tribes.
The Caledonians appeared in a state of insurrection on the south of
Hadrian's wall, aided by a remnant of the Brigantes, who seem to have pre-
served a precarious independence, perhaps in the rugged country extending
from the wilds of Lancashire over the lake district, and who had frequently
made predatory outbreaks. The latter were quickly overwhelmed, and the
greater part of the tribe destroyed. The northern insurgents were driven
into their mountains, and Lollius Urbicus caused the new barrier to be raised
for their restraint, which we already noticed under the name of the wall, of
Antoninus. The energetic measures of Urbicus restored tranquillity for a
time.
The Romans had now begun to treat the natives with more respect, and
to consider them as component parts of the empire ; the Britons were allowed
to become participators of the laws, privileges, and immunities of the Romans;
they became eligible to every situation and office for which they were qualified,
and they no longer endured a disgraceful exclusion from intermarrying with
their conquerors. By this wise act the Romans gained some of her best
commanders and Emperors. In the reign of Gommodus, about the year 183,
the Caledonians again took up arms, routed the Roman army, and ravaged
the country as far as York. To repel these invaders, the Emperor immedi-
ately sent over as Proprsetor, Ulpius Marcellus, a soldier of approved valour,
with a great body of troops, who quickly restored peace. But it was of short
duration, owing to the revolts of the natives, the incursions of the Caledo-
nians, and the insuboiiflination of the Roman army. In the reign of Severus,
Virius Lupus, then ProprsBtor in Britain, wrote to that Emperor " informing
him of the insurrections and inroads of the barbarians (as the native inhabi-
tants were called), to beg that he might have either a greater force, or that
the Emperor would come over in person." Severus chose the latter, and in
d08 (the 14th year of his reign), attended by his two sons, Caracalla and
Geta, and a numerous army, he arrived in Britain, and immediately advanced
to York, which was besieged by the Britons, under Fulgenius, a Scythian
6EMSRAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBE. 57
General, whom the natives had drawn over to their assistance. The
£mperor, now 60 years old, and sorely afflicted with gout, resolved to con-
duct the war against them in person. He rejected all overtures for peace,
except on their entire suhmission to his mercy, which hard condition they
rejected. They accordingly raised the siege, and retired north of Hadrian's
vail, whither the Emperor, with his son Caracalla, and a great force pro-
ceeded, leaving his other son, Geta, in company with Papinius, an eminent
Koman lawyer in York, to administer justice until his return. Severus
having at length, in S09, suhdued or concluded a treaty with these hitherto
nnconquered people at a loss, according to Dion and others, of no less than
50,000 men, took hosti^es of them, and returned to York. It has heen
popularly supposed, as we have already ohserved, that the following year was
employed in the construction of that immense line of fortification from the
Solway to the Tyne, which recent examinations, and the careful consideration
of ancient testimonies, have left little douht was the sole work of the Em-
peror Hadrian. Indeed, the historian of Severus has not hesitated to pro-
nounce that stupendous erection, the principal glory of his reign. Severus
carried his conquests as fiar as the Highlands of Scotland, and it is not
probable, that, after having added so much to the Roman territory towards
the north, he would raise a barrier on the limits to which the Roman power
had been confined when almost at its lowest ebb.
It is possible, however, that Severus may have repaired the wall, and it
seems that during his stay at York he often visited its towns and garrisons.
Historians have related several "fatal omens" which accompanied the
Umperor's progress, one of which occurred at York, when on his return firom
Caledonia, he went to offer sacrifice at the temple of Bellona. While he was
there, confiding in the solemn promises of the Caledonians to preserve the
peace, news suddenly arrived that the MasatsB and the Caledonii (the two
great tribes into which all the other tribes of Britain had in a manner
mei*ged) had igaxn united, and they had recommenced their predatory in-
roads. Furious at the faithlessness of the barbarians, and incensed at the
renewal of a war, by an enemy whom he had considered as completely sub-
dued, Severus resolved on their entire extermination; but his own death,
which occurred on the 4th of February, /211, averted the accomplishment of
his sanguinary design. A short time previous to his death, he addressed his
sons, Caracalla and Geta, thus : — " I leave you, Antonines (a term of affec-
tion) a firm and steady government, if you follow my steps, and prove what
you ought to be ; but weak and tottering, if you reject my council. Let
every part of your conduct tend to each other's good ; cherish the soldieiy,
z
58 GENERAL HISTOBT OF T0RK9HIRE.
and ihen you maj despise the rest of mankind. I found the republic dis-
turbed, and everywhere distracted, but to you I leave it firm and quiet — even
the Britons. I have been all, and yet I am now no better for it" Then
calling for the urn, in which his ashes were to be deposited, he exclaimed,
'* Thou shalt hold what the whole world could scarcely contain." The
Boman historian, Eutropius, tells us that this Emperor died at York — ^he
expressly says, **dece8sit Eboraci;" and Spartian also says, " periit Ebaraci
in Brittania" The Saxon Chronicle confirms this testimony, by stating that
" he reigned 17 years, and then ended his days at York." (Efer-wick.)
After his death, according to the custom among the Bomans, his remains
were reduced to ashes. Dion Cassius and Herodian tell us that his body
was borne by the soldiers to the funeral pile, about which the army and the
•two sons of the deceased Emperor made several processions in honour of his
memory. Abundance of presents were cast upon it, and at last the fire was
put to it by Caracalla and Geta; and that the ashes were collected and re-
ceived into an urn of porphyry, carried to Home, and deposited in the tomb
of the Antonines.
All the writers who have described York have dwelt with much exultation
on the magnificence of the funeral obsequies of Severus. The funeral pile is
stated to have been erected beyond the village of Holgate, about H mile west
of the city, and the eminence now called Severm HiU is doubtless indebted for
its present appellation to its connection, in some way, with that fiineral cere-
mony.« Drake is of opinion that this mount or tumuli, where the funeral
rites were performed, was raised by the soldiers that the memory of their
* When a Boman died, his body was laid out and washed, and a small coin was placed
m his mouth, which it was supposed he would require to pay his passage in Charon's
boat. If the corpse was to be burnt, it was earned on the day of the funeral in solemn
procession to the fimeral pile, which was raised in the place set apart for the purpose,
called the tutrinum. The pile, called rogus, or pyra, was built of the most inflammable
wood ; and when the body had been placed upon it, the whole was ignited by the rela-
tions of the deceased. Perfumes and spirituous Hquids were often poured over it; and
objects of different kinds, which had belonged to the individual when aHve, were thrown
into the flames. When the whole was consumed, and the fire extinguished, wine was
scattered over the ashes, after which the nearest relatives gathered what remained of
the bones and the cinders of the dead, and placed them in an urn, in which they were
committed to the grave. The site of iho ustrinum has been supposed to have been
traced in the neighbourhood of several towns in Boman Britain. Persons of rank were
burnt with greater ceremonies than were observed on ordinary occasions, and on a spot
chosen for the purpose instead of the ordinary ustrinum. The Bomans had other modes
of sepulture besides that of cremation. The bodies were sometimes buried entire, but
in several diflerent manners. — The Celt, the Boman, and the Saxon, by Thomas Wright,
Esq., M.A., F.S.A., &c.
OEKEBAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE. 59
great captain might surviye in Britain; but other historians maintain that
the bill is a natural elevation on the face of the country; and recent excava-
dons, for the purpose of forming the large reservoir for the new waterworks,
have confirmed that opinion.
After the death of Severus, his two sons, in compliance with the will of
iheir £ither, jointly assumed the imperial purple; but the elder brother,
Canu^alla, a man of vile disposition, perceiving that his half-brother, Geta,
was in much &vour with the army, on a slight pretence of mutiny, ordered
no less than 30,000 soldiers and persons of both sexes, whom he considered
as Geta*s friends, to be put to death; and with his own hands he murdered
Geta in the arms of his mother .f This monster then returned to Rome,
from whence he went to Syria, where he was assassinated at the instigation
of Opillius Macrinus, by Martialis, a desperate soldier, who had been refused
the rank of centurion.
For a considerable time no occurrence of importance took place in Britain,
though the Sixth Legion continued at York. But the country north of the
Hnmber, where the Bomans had settled in great numbers, began to assume
a beautiful aspect. They cleared the woods, drained the marshes, built or
improved all the principal towns ; the cheerless cabin of the British chief was
exchanged for the Roman Villa, with its decorated porticoes and tesselated
pavements ; and some of the most important Eoman stations were scattered
over the once wild haunts of the fierce Brigantes.
In the year 287, during the reign of the Emperor Dioclesian, Carausius,
a Briton, who had the command of a fleet on the Belgic coast, passed over
into Britain ; assumed the imperial purple, and set at defiance the whole
power of Rome. He is said to have been proclaimed Emperor at York.
This usurper overcame, with the assistance of the Picts and Scots, with
whom he leagued, Quintus Bassianus, a Roman Lieutenant, who was sent
over by the Emperor, to dispossess and destroy him. After reigning for
seven years, an independent Emperor of Britain, he was treacherously mur-
dered at York, by his Mend Alectus, who appears to have caused himself to
be prockimed Emperor in that city. Both of these usurpers were of plebeian
f Although it has been generally agreed by local historians, that the murder of Geta
and Papinins by Caracalla took place at York, Gibbon, in his Decline and FaU of the
Soman Efi^nre (chap. vi. pp. 52, 53), seems to be quite onoonscious that any difference
of opinion preTailed as to whether it happened at York or at Bome. The silence of such
an authority, on a question incidentally so important to the accuracy of his histoiy, is
very ominous of the invalidity of the claim of York to have witnessed the assassination,
as well as the death and deification of some of the masters of the world. — York Guide,
60 GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE.
origin. Some authors assert that Alectus was murdered by Asclepiodotus,
who also seized on the government of Britain, whilst others contend that
Alectus reigned until Constantius, sumamed Chlorus, was elected Emperor
at Rome, in a.d. 304, when the latter came over inmiediatelj to Britain, and
slew him with a sword of his own making — ^he (Alectus) having been, as it
is asserted, in early life a whitesmith. Constantius, though but a senator of
Home in the reign of AureHan, was of imperial descent ; and having some
years before visited this island in the character of Propraetor, is said to have
married Helena, or Helen, a British princess — ^but that Helen was of British
origin, appears to be a mere fable. Constantius and Helena were, however,
the parents of Constantine the Great, the first Christian Emperor of Rome,
who was generally supposed to have been bom at York, in the year 272,
imtil Niebuhr published his " Lectures on the History of Rome," wherein he
shows that in aU probability, Naissus, in Moesia, was the place of his births
Drake, and other local historians, seem very desirous to prove that Con-
stantino the Great was bom in York during one of the expeditions of his
father to Britain, but little reliance is to be placed upon many circumstances
of this nature, connected with histoiy so many centuries ago— especially when
historians are found vieing with each other in giving, as they think, an im-
portance to the city to which, in many instances, it has no claim. In the
instance before us, Gibbon, in a note to the 14th chapter of his Decline and
Fall, destroys any lingering inclination, which a partial citizen might retain,
to believe that such was the case.
Constantius resided at the Imperial Palace at York for two years, and died
there on tho 25th of July, 306, " fifteen months after he had received the
tide of Augustus, and almost fourteen years and a half after he had been
promoted to the rank of Csesar."* The ceremony of the deification of the
remains of Constantius was performed with the usual splendour at York ; —
Drake has collected, with great diligence, an account of the costiy character
of the solemnities.+ Several medals in memory of Constantius were struck
on this occasion, which have the head of the Emperor velatum et laureaJtum ;
and this inscription, " Divo Constantio Pio." On the reverse is an altar
with an eagle on each side of it, holding a label in their beaks between them,
inscribed " Memoria Felix."
There was a local tradition that the urn containing the ashes of Constan-
tius, was deposited in a vault beneath the church of St. Helen-on-the-Walls,
• Gibbon's Decline and FaU of the Roman Empire, xiv. p. 169.
f Eboracum, p. 43.
GENEBAL, HISTORY 0? YOEKSHUIE. 61
York ; that it was discoTered about the time of the Beformation ; and that
the urn was preserved for some time in that church.
Constantine the Great, the son and successor of Constantius, is said to
have taken great pains to be present at his &ther*s death, the better to secure
the favour of the British legions. Gibbon relates the arts by which he
induced the imperial authorities in Eboracum to proclaim him Emperor of
the West HoweTer, it is certain that he assumed the imperial purple at
York, with the titles of Caesar and Augustus, and that there he was pre-
sented with a Tufa, or golden globe, as a symbol of his soTer^igntj over the
island of Britain. He prized this emblem highly, and upon his conversion
to Christianity, had a cross placed upon it, and had it carried before him in
all his processions. The Tufa has been the usual sign of royalty, in England,
since that period, and is considered part of the regalia.
Soon after the inauguration of the Emperor Constantine, he not only left
Britain, but Europe also ; and removed the seat of empire firom Home to
Byzantium, called afterwards from him, Constantinople.
In 312, Constantine renounced paganism, and embraced Christianity, and
in the following year, after the conquest of Italy, he made a solemn declara-
tion oi his sentiments in the celebrated edict of Milan, restored peace to the
Christian church, and promulgated the principle of religious liberty.
Eusebius ascribes the conversion of Constantine to the miraculous sign of
a cross, which was displayed in the heavens, with the legend, *' In hoc Signo
VincU " (By this sign thou shalt conquer), while he meditated and prepared
the Italian expedition.
The Britons remained quiet till the year 326, when they revolted, and the
Scots having come to their assistance, the Eomans, under the command of
Trahems, their Lieutenant^ were defeated, and Octavius, the British chief,
was crowned King of all Britain, in York.
AAer this, Octavius ungratefully sought to dispossess his benefactors, the
Picts and Scots, of that part of the country allotted to them by Casarius ;
but the King of Scotland being informed of his intention, came suddenly
upon him, and compelled him to flee to Norway.
The exact date of the introduction of Christianity into Britain is involved
in obscurity, and has been the subject of much dispute. Some writers place
the date of its introduction at a very eariy period after the death of our Lord.
A manuscript in the British Museum says, ''In the 31st year after the
Crucifixion, twelve disciples of St. Philip the Apostle, of whom Joseph of
Arimathea was the head, came into this land, and preached the doctrines of
Christianity to King Arviragus, who denied, them. But they obtained from
6d OENEBAL HISTOBT OF TOBESHIBE.
him this spot (Glastonbury), with twelve hides of land, whereon they erected
the first church in the kingdom." Gent, Speed, Camden, and others, assert
that the gospel was preached here by Joseph of Arimathea in the time of
Suetonius, and by Simon Zelotes in the time of Agricola; whilst some
authors pronounce that Christianity was planted in this island by St. Paul,
and some of the other Apostles. The chronicler of Doyer Castle says, " In
the year of grace 180, reigned in Britain, Lucius. He became a Christian
imder Pope Eleutherius, and served God, and advanced Holy Church as
much as he could. Amongst other benefits he made a church in the said
castle, where the people of the town might receive the sacraments. "><« The
same chronicler then goes on to tell of the dreaiy period of the Saxon inva-
sion under Hengist, when "the Pagan people destroyed the churches
throughout the land, and thrust out the Christians."
William of Malmsbury records as a remarkable piece of ecclesiastical an-
tiquity, that when St. Philip the Apostle was in Gaul, promulgating the
doctrines of Christianity, he received information that all those horrid super-
stitions which he had observed in the inhabitants of that country, and had
vainly endeavoured, with the utmost labour and difficulty, to overcome,
originated from a little island at no great distance from the continent, named
Britain. Thither he immediately resolved to extend the influence of his
precepts, and despatched twelve of his companions and followers, appointing
Joseph of Arimathea, who, not long before, had taken his Saviour from the
cross, to superintend the sacred embassy. On their arrival, the Koman
General, Vespasian, who was tarrying at the court of Arviragus and Givenissa,
interested himself very warmly in their behalf with both the King and Queen;
and at his request the royal protection was granted to the strangers, and
they were hospitably entertained by Arviragus; who, to compensate them for
their hard and toilsome journey, bestowed on them, for a place of habitation,
a small island, which then lay waste and untiUed, surrounded by bogs and
morasses. To each of the twelve followers of St. Joseph, he appointed there
a certain portion of land called a hide, sufficient for one family to live upon,
and composing altogether a territory to this day, denominated "the Twelve
Hides of Glaston."
Mrs. M. Hall, in her recently-published Lives of the Anglo-Saxon Qiieens,
says, " The account of the first introduction of Christianity into Britain, sin-
gular and romantic as it may seem, is not undeserving of attention, as it is
well known that St. Paul preached to the utmost bounds of the west ; and
• See Appendix, Mo. I., to Bagdale's Acootint of the Nunnery of St. Martin.
OEKEBAL HIST0B7 OF T0BE8HISE. 63
we have excellent authority for believing that some of the Apostles actually
preached to the Britons. Theodoret, who asserts this, declares the Britons
were conyerts to St. Paul; and states that Aristobulus, a Bishop ordained by
St. Paul, and sent to Britain as a missionary, was mart3rred a.d. 66. There
is, indeed, every reason to believe that the Christian faith was early promul-
gated in Britain, and many converts made prior to the defeat of Queen
Boadicea. If Vespasian was at all instrumental in establishing it here, it is
singular enough, as his son Titus was the destroyer of Jerusalem, and dis-
perser of the Jews throughout the world."
The Fabyan Chronicle says, "Lucius, or Lucy, the sone of Coilus, was
made King of Biytons in the yere of our Lord, C. Ixxx. The whiche in all
actes and dedyes of goodness followed his forefaders in suche wyse, that he
of all men was beloued and drad. Of this is lytell or none acte notable put
in memoiy, except that aU wiyters agree that this Lucius sent to Eleuthe-
rius, th^i Pope of Home, certayne pistles or letters, prayinge hym that he
and his Brytons myghte be receyved to the faythe of Crist s Churche;
whereof the Pope beynge very joyous and gladde, sent into Brytayne .ii. noble
derkes, named Faganus and Damianus, or after some Fugacius and Dimia-
nua; these .ii. good and vertuous derkes were honourably receyued by
Lucius, the whiche, by ther good Doctryne and vertuous ensamples gyu3mge,
conuertjd the Kinge, and a great parte of the Brytons."'*'
The Venerable Bede, who wrote his Ecclesiastical History in the 8th cen-
tury, "and whose learning," says the author of Beveriac, "would make his
authority respectable in any age," tells us that the Christian Mih was
preached in Britain, and the first hierarchy established by the missionaries
sent in a.d. 170, by Pope Eleutherius, at the request of Lucius, a British
King.f This statement is confirmed by St. Gildas the Wise, who flourished
AO). 495; and who observes, Hke Bede, that the Britons preserved the fiaith
in tranquillity from, that time until the persecution of the Boman Emperor
Diocletian in 303, when St. Alban and so many others suffered martyrdom.^
Three British Bishops, — ^Eborius of York, Kestitutus of London, and
Adelphius of Richborough — attended the first ecclesiastical council at Aries,
which was called by Constantine the Great, to condemn the heresy of the
Donatists in a.i>. 314. According to the accounts of that Council, published
by Simon of Paris, the Bishop of York signed himself ^'Eborius Episcopels de
• Fabyan Chronicle, p. 88.
t Eedes. Hist, Book i, chap. iv. Bede tells as that in the 4th century the monastery
of Bangor, near Chester, contained more than 2,000 monks.
i Bellarm. de Scrip Ecdea.; also Usher Kccles. BriL Antiq., cap. v.
64 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Civitate Ehoracensi"^ British Bishops, we are likewise told, attended the
Council of Nice in the year 825 ; and at that of Sardica in 847. The first
direct evidence of the existence of structures, dedicated to the Christian wor-
ship in York, is to he found in the records of the events which occurred in
that city during the struggles between the Britons and the Saxons. York
was then frequently taken and re-taken, and suffered severely in various
sieges, for the different conquerors took but Httle pains to keep in repair the
various buildings erected by the Romans.
Ambrosius, the British King, held a council of his princes and nobles at
York, and ordered, we are told, the churches, destroyed or injured by the
Pagans, to be re-built. King Arthur, who is said to have celebrated the first
Christmas ever kept in this country, at York in a.b. 534, gave similar
directions.
Now, on the other hand, some writers deny the whole of the above evidence
altogether. Mr. Thomas Wright, a most zealous and skilful antiquary, in
his excellent work on the early inhabitants of Britain,f tells us, that amongst
the immense number of altars and inscriptions of temples, and with so many
hundreds of Koman sepulchres and graves as have been opened in this
country, not a single trace is to be found of the rehgion of the Gospel. " We
seem driven by these circumstances to the unavoidable conclusion," he writes,
" that Christianity was not established in Eoman Britain, although it is a
conclusion totally at variance with the preconceived notions into which we
have been led by the ecclesiastical historians." The same learned writer, after
examining the subject, is of opinion that the few allusions to Britain in the
earlier Christian writers, ought to be considered as little better than flourishes
of rhetoric. " Britain," he says, " was the western extremity of the known
world, and when the zealous preacher wished to impress on his hearers or
readers, the widely extended success of the Gospel, he would tell them that
it extended from India to Britain, without considering much whether he was
literally correct in saying that there were Christians in either of these two
extremes. We must probably consider in this light certain passages in
Tertullian, Origin, Jerome, and others." With respect to the alleged pre-
sence of British Bishops at the CouncU of Aries, he thinks that the lists
printed in the Collections of Councils is extremely suspicious, and looks veiy
like the invention of a later period. " In the year 860, under the Emperor
Constantius, a council was called at Arminimi (Rimini), in Italy, on account
* Camden's Britannia, Gough's edition,
f The Celt, the Saxon, and the Roman, by Thomas Wright, Esq., MJL, F.S^, Ssc.,
pp. 296, &o.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 05
of the Arion controTersy, and it is said to have been attended by four hun-
dred Bishops. The prelates assembled on this occasion were to be supported
at the public expense, but we are told by the ecclesiastical historian, Sulpicius'
Severus, who wrote about forty years afterwards, that * this seemed unbe-
coming to the Bishops of Aquitaine, Gaul, and Britain ; and they choose
rather to liye at their own charge, than at the public expense. Three only
hx>m Britain, on account of their poverty, made use of the public provision ;
for, though the other Bishops offered to make a' subscription for them, they
thought it more becoming to be indebted to the public purse, than to be a
burden upon individuals.* If this account be true, and three Bishops really
went from Britain, they were perhaps only missionaries, whose converts were
too few and too poor to be able to support them." Mr. Wright thinks it not
unlikely that the three names of British Bishops " pretended to have been
at the Council of Aries, had been made to answer to the three Bishops men-
tioned by Sulpicius Severus ;" and he treats the above accounts, in which
occur the nameb of Joseph of Arimathea, St Paul, King Lucius, and Pope
Kleutherius, as l^endary stories resting upon no authority, and which will
not bear criticism. He also refuses to believe in the " pretended persecution
in Britain under Diocletian;" but we think his reasons for denying it are not
very strong. "A persecution of the Christians," he argues, "is not likely to
have taken place under the orders of the tolerant Constantius, who was
Governor of Britain when the persecution of Diocletian commenced, and who
became Emperor two years later, and in another year left his title to his son
Constantine." Constantius may have been tolerant, but he was a Pagan,
and the representative and servant of the persecuting tyrant Diocletian ; and
that he (Constantius) became Emperor two years afterwards, and that after
his death his son became a Christian, seems but a poor cause for supposing
that he refused to cany out the rule of his master in persecuting the
Christians.
Our antiquary entertains strong doubts of the authenticity of the work
attributed to Gildas, on which chiefly our notions of the establishment of
Christianity into Koman Britain are founded. " If the authority of such
writers be worth anything," he adds, '' we must take it for granted that at
least after the age of Constantine, Boman Britain was a Christian country ;
that it was filled with churches, clergy, and bishops, and, in fact, that Pa-
ganism had been abolished throughout the land. We should imagine that
the invaders, imder whom the Roman power feU, found nothing but Christian
altars to overthrow, and temples of Christ to demolish. It is hardly neces-
saiy to point out how utterly at variance such a statement is with the result
66 GENEBAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIRE.
of antiquarian researches; not a trace of Christianity being to be found
among the innumerable religious and sepulchral monuments of the Roman
period, found in Britain."
But at whatever period the truths of the Christian religion were first
preached in this kingdom, it seems certain that it had been quite extirpated,
and that idolatry had spread itself entirely over the land, when Pope Gregory
the Great sent hither Augustine and his fellow-labourers to spread the faith
of the Gospel, in the year 696.
The Homan government in Britain was vested in a Prefect, or Propretor,
who possessed the whole administrative power, judicial and military; a
Quaestor or Procurator, appointed by the Emperor, to arrange the affairs of
the revenue ; and a numerous army of legionaries and auxiliaries secured
the obedience of the people, and protected the country from foreign invasion.
In the reign of Constantine, both the form of government and the territorial
divisions were altered. That monarch divided his vast dominions into four
prefectures — Italy, Gaul, the East, and Blyria. Britain was included in the
prefecture of Gaul, and the deputy of that prefect resided at York, and was
called the Vicar of Britain. His subordinates were the consulars of Valentia
and Maxima Ccssariensis; and the presidents of the sub-divisions called
Flavia, Britannia Prima, and Britannia Secunda, The superintendence of
the army was committed to three Dukes; the first commanded from the
north fi:ontier to the Humber; the second, with the title of Count of the
Saxon Shore, the troops on the coast from the Humber to the Land's End in
Cornwall; and the third, the Count of Britain, commanded the garrison in
the interior.
Throughout the provinces were scattered a great number of inhabited
towns, and military posts, the names of which are still preserved in the
Itineraries of Eichard and Antoninus. They were partly of British and
partly of Roman origin ; and were divided into four classes, gradually desc^i-
ding in the scale of privilege and importance. The Colonies claimed the first
rank, and were inhabited by veterans rewarded by the lands of the conquered
nations. Each colony was a miniature representation of the parent city.
It adopted the same customs, and was governed by the same laws. In
Britain there were nine of these establishments, two of civil and seven of a
military description, namely, Richborough, London, Colchester, Bath, Glou-
cester, Caerleon, Chester, Lincoln, and Chesterfield. The towns of the
second class were called Munioipiaf and were occupied by Roman citizens.
The advantages enjoyed by the Colonies were nearly equalled, and in some
respects surpassed by the privileges of these municipal cities, the inhabitants
OENEBAL HI8T0RT OF TORKSHIBE. 67
of which were exempted £rom the operation of the imperial statutes, and
possessed the right of choosing their own magistrates, and of enacting their
own hkws. Privileges so valuahle were reserved for the reward of extraordi-
nary merit, and Britain could only boast of two Municipia — ^Verulam (near
the present town of St Albans) and York. The Latin Cities were the next
in lunk, and their inhabitants had the right of electing their own magis-
trates annually ; and the Stipendiary Towns were charged with the imperial
tribute from which the other towns were exempt These distinctions were
however gradually aboHshed. Antoninus granted to every provincial of rank
and opulence the freedom of the city; and Caracalla extended the indulgence
to the whole body of the natives.
The science of agriculture seems to have made great progress about this
time, for Tacitus observes, that, except the olive, the vine, and some other
fruits peculiar to the hotter climates, this country produces all things else in
great plenty; and that the fruits of the earth, in coming up, are forward, but
very slow in ripening; the cause of which is the excessive moisture of the
earth and air; and Strabo observes, that our air is more subject to rain
ihan snow.
Camden says, that so happy is Britain in a most plentiful product of all
sorts of grain, that Orpheus (or more truly Onamacritus) hath called it the
very seat of Geres; and, continues the same writer, *' former times this was
as it were the granary and magazine of the Western Empire, for from hence
the Romans were wont every year, in 800 vessels larger than barks, to trans-
port vast quantities of com, for the supply of their armies in garrison upon
the frontiers of Germany." He also quotes an enconium on Britain, from an
old orator, in a panegyric to Constantine, thus, " O fortunate Britain, the
most happy country in the world, in that thou didst first behold Constantine
our Emperor. Thee hath Nature deservedly enriched with the choicest
blessings of heaven and earth. Thou neither feelest the excessive colds of
winter, nor the scorching heats of summer. Thy harvests reward thy labours
with so vast an increase, as to supply thy tables with bread, and thy cellars
vrith liquor. Thy woods have no savage beasts; no serpents harbour there
to hurt the traveller. Innumerable are thy herds of cattle, and the flocks of
sheep, which feed thee plentifully, and clothe thee richly. And as to the
comforts of life, the days are long, and no night passes without some glimpse
of light For whilst those utmost plains of the sea shore are so flat and low
as not to cast a shadow to create night, they never lose the sight of the
heavens and stars; but the sun, which to us appears to set, seems there only
to pass by.**
68 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Isacius Tzetes, a famous Greek writer, affirms that the fertility and
pleasantness of Britain gave occasion for some to imagine, that these were
the Fortunate Islands, and those the Seats of the Blessed, where the poets
tell us the face of nature smiled with one perpetual spring.
The Romans continued to hold their sway in Britain for nearly a century
after the death of Constantino the Great, hut their writings afford hut scanty
materials for illustrating the histoiy of Yorkshire.
The Emperor Constantine having taken the flower of the British youth to
his wars in Gaul, Britain was left open to the devastating incursions of the
Caledonians, or Picts and Scots,* who in 364 renewed their attacks; and
the country was at the same time harrassed hy the Saxons, whose predatory
descents on the coast indicated their intention of seizing on a dominion,
which imperial Rome now held with a feehle hand.
Internal dissensions, and external assaults, were now hasting £a^ the
downfall of the empire of Rome, and in a.d. 426, the Romans finally relin-
quished all possession, power, and authority, in Britain, in the 481st year
after Caesar's coming over. " The tyrants had left none but half foreigners
in our fields," writes William of Malmsbury, "None hut gluttons and de-
bauchees in our cities ; Britain robbed of the support of her vigorous youth,
and the benefit of the liberal arts, became a prey to her neighbours, who had
long marked her out for destruction. For immediately after, multitudes lost
their lives by the incursions of the Picts and Scots, villages were burnt, cities
demolished, and all things laid waste by fire and sword. The inhabitants of
the island were greatly perplexed, and thought it better to trust to anything
than a battle : some of them fled to the mountains, others having buried
their treasures, many of which have been dug up in our age, betook them-
selves to Rome for assistance."
• Scotland, the ancient name of which was Caledonia, was first inhabited by a people
who came from Scythia or Scandinavia, which now includes Norway, Sweden, and part
of Denmark, and took the name of Pike or PehtSt from a country so styled in the north
of Norway. In the time of the Saxons they were called Peohts, and their country
PeohUand, They were called Caledonians from Celyddon, which in the ancient British
language meant the Coverts. Some say they were descendants of Scythiac, or Gothic
colonists, who conquered North Britain some ages before the Christian era. The Scots
were originally GaJlic Celts, who in early ages migrated from the western shores of
Britain into Ireland. They made many marauding incursions into the Eoman territories
on the south-west coast of Scotland. At length they settled in Kintj're, and had coloni-
zed Argyle, 50 years after the Saxon conquest, when a bloody struggle ensued between
them and the natives, which at the end of 340 years, terminated in the extinction of the
Pictish government, and the union of the Picts and Scots, under Eeneth Mac Alpin, in
A.D. 843.
OBNEaAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIBE. 69
Many striking evidences of the stupendous public works accomplished by
the Romans during their residence in this country stiU remain. " Like a
conqaeror of modem times, they bestowed extraordinary attention on their
public roads and waUs, and at a distance of 1,400 years, we can trace in
legible characters around us, the labours of the mistress of the world." The
Roman Yeterans were no less famed for their valour in the field than for their
knowledge and assiduity in architecture and sculpture, for they fought and
laboured with equal skill and vigour, and it is much to be regretted that this
wise policy of keeping the soldiery usefully employed in time of peace, should
have been abandoned by the modem European nations.
The Sixth Legion, called Legia Sexta Victrix, remained at York, until the
final desertion of the island by the Romans. This legion was brought out
of Germany by the Emperor Hadrian, and its station at York may easily be
traced for a period of more than 300 years. The ninth legion was also
stationed at York, but is generally supposed to have been early dissolved,
and incorporated with the sixth. This legion consisted of six to seven
thousand troops, of which about one-tenth part was horse, and the remainder
foot soldiers.
The Roman soldiers employed much of their leisure hours in perpetuating
their names, or complimenting their victorious leaders by monumental
inscriptions ; and also by inscriptions commemorative of the completion of
buildings and public works; and in erecting and inscribing statues in honour
of their principal deities; but after the introduction of the Christian religion
these statues were destroyed. Many Roman coins have been found in the
neighbourhood of the great stations, where they had been secreted either by
the Roman soldiers, or by the afi&ighted Britons, when the northern tribes
or the Saxon invaders burst in upon their country, and razed their towns to
the ground.
Roman Roads. — The Romans bestowed very great attention, labour, and
expense on their pubHc highways, which generally consisted of a regular
pavement, formed by large boulder stones or fragments of rock, embedded in
gravel, and varied in width from four to fourteen yards, and were carried
over rivers, not by bridges, but by fords.
The four principal Roman military roads which traverse Britain were the
WatUng, or WiUhding Street ; the Ermine, or Hermin Street ; the Fosseway ;
and the Icknild Street. The Roman roads are generally very direct. They
seem seldom to have turned out of their course to avoid a hill ; and in some
instances we find the Roman road proceeding direct up an acclivity which
we should not encounter at the present day. A Roman road runs over the
70 QEKERAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIREk
top of one of the mountains of Westmorland, almost 2,000 feet above the level
of the sea, which is named from its devation. High Street
The WaUing Street,^ which divided England in length, commenced at the
port of Hutupia, now Eichborough, in Kent, and extended to the limits of
the wall of Severus on the Tjne, intersecting Yorkshire from the edge of
Nottinghamshire, to the bishopric of Durham. It is probable that this great
highway entered the county somewhere in the neighbourhood of Bawtxj, but
the exact point is not ascertainable. It is certain, however, from traces, that
it passed through Danum, or Doncaster, over Scawsby and Pigbum Leas to
Bamsdale, through Pontefract Park to Castleford, the ancient LegioUum,^
From this station it continued to Calcaria, now Tadcaster, and from thence
to Eboracum (York), the chief seat of the Homan power in Britain. From
this city it was carried on to Imrium (Aldborough), where it crossed the
river, and thence by Leeming Lane to Cattaracton, now Catterick Bridge.
Crossing over the Swale, it turned more to the northward, and passing over
the Tees gX Ad Tisam (Piersel»idge), it entered the county of Durham, and
thence continued to the Boman wall.
The Ermine Street extended from London to Lincoln and Warrington,
crossing Northamptonshire at Castor, and passing through Yorkshire. The
Fosseway led from Bath to Lincoln and Newark; and the Ickneld, or Icknild
Street, extended from Caistor, in Norfolk, through Colchester to Lincoln.
Besides the Watling Street and Ermine Street, several other Roman roads
ran through the Ager EboracensiSf or province of York, in various directions,
and for the discovery of some of them, as also many other Homan works, we
» The etymology of this, the greatest of the Boman roads, has cansed much discnssion
amongst antiquarians. Hoveden thinks that it was called the Watling Street, fh)m
Wathe or Wathla, a British King. Whittaker, the Manchester historian, and Stukeley
are of opinion that it was the Guetheling rood — Sam GueiheUn, or the road of the Irish,
the 6 being pronounced as a W. Camden thinks that it derives its name from an un-
known Yitellianus, but that its etymology is from the Saxon Wadla, a beggar, because
this rood was the resort of such i>eople for the charity of trayeUers. Spehnan fimcies it
was called Werlam-Street, from its passing through Verulam. Soniner derives the name
from the Belgic Wentelin, while Baxter contends that it was made by the original
Britons. Br. Wilkes says, that it was more indented and crooked than other Boman
roads usually are, and supposes that it was formed of wattles^ which was the idea also of
Pointer. A learned writer in the Mirror for 1829, contends that it is a Boman road
made from station to station, and hence its deviation from a straight line, which in
many parts is so apparent. He is also of opinion that it was planned and formed by
Vespasian, the celebrated Boman general in Britain, after the various stations through
the kingdom were finished, and that he named it, in compliment to the Emperor
Vitellius, VUeUU Strata Via, Watling-Street Way.
f Boothroyd's Hist. Pontefract, p. 12.
OEl^EBAL HISTOBT OF YORKSHIRE. 71
tre nudnlj indebted to the industry of Francis Drake, Esq., the learned
antiquary of the city of York, and the late Rev. Thomas Leman. A military
load led from Mancunium, or Manchester, to York, passing through the
township of Stainland, near HaHflEuc, by the way of Cambodunum, supposed
to be Almondbniy, near Huddersfield. It kept the C alder on its left* till it
crossed that riTor about a mile below Dewsbury, where it fell in with the
turnpike road to Wakefield. From this place it kept the direction of the
precwnt highway, half the way to Pontefiact, and then inclining to the left,
joined the great military road from Doncaster to York.
Another of these Roman ways ran from Chesterfield, by way of Sheffield,
Bamsley, Hemworth, and Acworih, and joined the Wading Street at Ponte*
fract; and a idcinal way appears to haTO passed through Pontefract, in -a
Bouth^ly direction, to the villages of Darrington, Wentbridge, Smeaton,
Campsall, and Hatfield. Thero was also a road from Manchester, by Cam-
bodnnum, Wakefield, and the Street-houses. A Eoman military way ran
from Yoik to Derventio, near Stamford Bridge, whero it divided into two
branches, the one leading to Dnnsley Bay, the Dunns Sinus of Ptolemy ; and
the other to Scarborough and Filey. The branch leading from Stamford
Bridge to Dunsley Bay is now called Wade's Causeway, and is supposed to
have derived its name from the Sason Duke, Wada, who is said to have re-
dded at a castle near the coast Drake, in his Histoiy of York, tells us that
he ''had his first intelligence of this road, and the camp upon it, from T.
Robinson, Esq., of Pickering, a gentleman well versed in this kind of
learning.** Mr. HinderweU, on the authority of Mr. Robert King (who dis-
covered the vestiges of the Dunus Sinus road, in the fields near the village
of Broughton, where eleven Roman urns wero dug up in making fences for
the enclosure, and the stones of the road have been frequently ploughed up),
gives a clearer idea of this highway, in the following passage : — " Thero was
also another Roman road which passed westward, through the range of towns
called Street towns, viz: — Appleton-le-Street, Barton-le-Street, <fec. The
great Roman road, or Ermine Street, continues by the town of Barugh, and
not tax from Thornton and Risborough, to the barrows near the little village of
Cawtfaom, or Coldthom, whero thero is a small spring; and a house in the
village still retains the name of Bibo, supposed to be derived firom having
been a drinking house of the soldiers from the barrow camps. Hence the
road proceeds to Stopebeck, which it crosses in the line of the Egton road,
and then continues, at a small distance from that road, to a stone cross, called
Malo Cross, which it passes at about the distance of forty yards on the west
of the cross. It then runs northward to Keys*bec, which it crosses about
7Q GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
sixty yards east of the Egton road, and pursues the northern direction, until
it crosses Wheeldale-bec, at the point of junction of that bee and Keys-bee,
whence it proceeds by the Hunt-house to July or Julius Park, to the ancient
castle of Mulgrave, situate near Dunua Sinus, or Dunsley Bay, in the neigh-
bourhood of Whitby, where several Roman urns have been found."*
Another Roman road ran from York to Bridlington Bay or Filey. This
celebrated bay is called by Ptolemy Gabrandtovicorum Sinus Tortuosus, or
Salutaris. From it a Roman ridge, commonly called the Dykes, is apparent
for many miles over the Wolds, directing in a straight line for York. The
late Sir Christopher Sykes discovered a vestige of this road at Sledmere, in
levelling a high bank, forming one side of the Slade near the Mere. " The
workmen came upon a very distinct layer of smaU gravelly stones, at almost
two feet six inches from the surface, laid in a convex form, nine feet wide,
and six or seven inches thick, in the direction of a line between York and
Hunmanby ; but after it ascends the hill from Sledmere, it is more in the
form of an intrenchment than a road, and has probably been used at different
periods for both purposes."! Drake traces this road from Sledmere, by
Wharram-en-le-Street and Settrington, to Malton and York.
There was a Roman way from York to the Praetorium of Antoninus, which
Camden places at Patrington. Drake fixes the first military station from
York, on this road, at DerverUio, or Stainsfordburgh, now called Stamford
Bridge, and the next station at Delgovwia, now Londesborough. From the
latter station, part of the Ermine Street, called Humber Street, ran south to
the village of Brough (ad PetuariumJ, on the Humber ; and from the station
ad Abum on the opposite side (Wintringham), was continued to lAndum,
now Lincoln.
The great military road fix^m York to Lincoln, as marked out in the fifth
and eighth iter of Antoninus, was by Danum, (Doncaster), and crossed the
Trent at Littleborough, the ancient ArgoUcum. Thus did the military roads
converge in every direction from the extremities of the province to Eboracum^
or York, their common centre.
Roman Stations, — Besides the great Roman station of Eboracum, or Ebu-
racum, at York, this county contained also in the West Riding, the stations
of Isurium, at Aldborough ; Legiolum, near the junction of the rivers Aire
and Calder ; Danum, at Doncaster ; Olicana, at Bkley ; and Cambodtmum,
at Almondbury, near Huddersfield. The stations in the North Riding were
those of Cataractonium, at Catterick ; and Derventio, at Stamford Bridge, or
• HinderweU'8 Hist Soarb. pp. 19, 20. f Allen's Hist Yorks. p. U.
OSKEBAL HISTORT OF YORXSBIRS. 78
at Alby, or Aldby, a mile farther northward ; and in the East Riding, Petu-
{urioy at Beverley, or Brough ; DelgovUia, at Londesborough ; and Pratorium,
at Patrington.
Traces of Raman Encampments are found in several places, and will be
noticed under their proper heads in this work. (For a further account of
Soman Btmains, see tlie History of York, at subsequent pages, J
AHer the Romans had vacated Britain, the country sunk into a state of
anarchy, barbaroos nations invading it frequently, and civil wars prevailing
more and more among the Britons themselves, so that it lay for some time,
as it were, without blood or spirit, and without any face or appearance of
goTemment. While under the dominion of the Romans, England and Wales
contained thirty CivitcUeSf or Seigniories, governed by their own magis-
trates; and it is supposed that the Britons, when left to themselves,
establisihed the same number of republics. But civil discord very soon
established military tyrannies; and to aggravate these evils, the Picts and
Scots were continually renewing their attacks on the divided Britons. In a
few years eveiy trace of popular government had vanished, and the ambition,
the wars, and the vices of the petty chieftains, or Kings of Britain, together
with the frequent incursions of the above-named depredators, inflicted on
the country more permanent and extensive injuries than had ever been suf-
fered from the incursions of foreign enemies. In the north, district after
distzict became the scene of devastation at the hands of the northern tribes ;
and the approach of danger admonished the more southern Britons to pro-
vide for their own safety. Vortigem, the most powerful of the British Kings,
leaniing that a Saxon squadron of three chiules, or long ships, was cruising in
the channel in quest of adventures, under the command of the brothers
Hengist and Horsa, hastened to solicit their assistance in banishing the
northern invaders. The Saxon chiefs eagerly accepted the invitation of the
British Prince to aid in fighting his battles, and depend for their reward on
his gratitude.
The Saxons were confederated tribes, consisting of the Angles, the Jutes,
and the genuine Saxons, who had long been settled on the shores of the
German Ocean, and extended from the Eyder to the Rhine. They were a
bold and warlike people, trained to arms from their boyhood, and whose only
profession was pillage by land and piracy by sea. Their whole time was
devoted to indolence and to rapine. Every warrior attached himself to the
74 QEMERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIBB.
fortunes of some favourite chieftain, whom he followed in his piratical expe-
dition ; whilst the culture of their lands, and the care of their flocks, were
consigned to the women and slaves.
Zosimus tell us, that they were in general a warlike nation; and were
looked upon to be the most valiant of all the Grermans, both for greatness of
mind, strength of body, and a hardy constitution. Marcellinus observes, that
the Romans dreaded them above all others, because their motions were always
sudden ; and Orosius says, that " for their courage and activity they were
terrible." They were eminent for their tallness, symmetiy of parts, and
exactness of features. Wittichindus, a monk, has left us this description of
them, ''the Franks were amazed to see men of such vast bodies, and so great
souls. They wondered at their strange habit and armour, at their hair
hanging down upon their shoulders, and above all, at liieir courage and
resolution."
Sidonius, the eloquent Bishop of Clermont, in describing these barbarians,
says, ''We have not a more cruel and more dangerous enemy than the
Saxons. They overcome all who have courage to oppose them. They sur-
prise all who are so imprudent as not to be prepared for their attack. When
they pursue they in&llibly overtake; when they are pursued, their escape is
certain. They despise danger ; they are inured to shipwreck ; they are eager
to purchase booty with the peril of their lives. Tempests, which to others
are so dreadful, to them are subjects of joy. The storm is their protection
when they are pressed by the enemy, and a cover for their operations when
they meditate an attack. Before they quit their own shores, they devote to
the altars of their Gods the tenth part of the principal captives; and when
they are on the point of returning, the lots are ciust with an affectation of
equity, and Ihe impious vow is fulfilled."
The Saxons, according to Lingard, were invited to Britain by Vortigem in
the year 449. Ancient writers, however, are at variance respectbig the exact
year; "but," writes Camden, "at what time soever they came over, it is
certain they showed wonderful cotirage, and this tempered with great pru-
dence; for in a short time they became so considerable, both for numbers,
discipline, and conquests, that they were in a most prosperous and powerful
condition, and their victory in a manner enim and absolute." All they
conquered, excqpt some few who took refuge in the uncultivated western
parts, yielded, and became one nation, and embraced their laws, name, and
language.
Such is the character of the auxiliaries invited by Vortigem to resist the
invaders. For six years they served him with fidelity, but the Picts and
GENERAL HI8T0BT OF T0BK8HIBB. 75
Soots were no sooner driven bock to their native hills, than the Saxons, in
their greedy desire to possess the fertile country for which they had been
fighting, obtained large reinforcements &om their own country, and turned
their snrords upon the Britons, who made an obstinate resistance, in which
they fought many great battles under Yortigem and the renowned King
Arthur.
The Piets and Soots having succeeded in subduing all the country north of
the Humber, and in rendering York littie short of a heap of ruins ; Hengist,
the Saxon general, attacked and defeated them with great slaughter near the
city. Ajft^ rescuing York, and all the country south of the river Tees, and,
as has just been observed, banishing the invaders to their native moun-
tains, the Saxons received large reinforcements, and attacked the Britons.
Several bloody battles were fought, and Kent was conquered by Hengist.
Sach is the account given by the Saxon Chronicle ; but the British writers
teil a different tale. They attribute the loss of Kent to the infatuation of
Vortagem and the treacherous policy of Hengist. They tell us that the
Britidi Song having become enamoured of the beautiful Rowena, daughter
of Hengist, divorced his Queen, took the former to his bed, and bestowed on
his father-in-law the kingdom of Kent. The Britons being satisfied that the
Saxons intended to settle in this country, sent for Aurelius Ambrosius, Prince
of Armorica, who is described as of Boman origin, the son of parents who
had worn the purple, and a brave and unassuming warrior, to assist in de-
lending them. " Hengist hearing of their embassy,'* says Allen, '' privately
sent his sons Ochta and Abisa to secure all the northern fortresses; who,
stnctly obserting their fiEither^s instructions, feigned accusations against many
of the leading characters at York and its vicinity, charging them with a
design ot betraying their countrymen into the hands of those enemies whom
the Saxons had defeated ; and imder this pretence put many of them to
death, some secretly, others openly, as actually convicted of the treasons laid
to their charge.**'*'
Yortimer, the son. of Yortigem, now placed himself at the head of the
Britons, attacked the Saxons before the arrival of Ambrosius, and defeated
them in fovuT successive battles. Shordy afterwards Ambrosius arrived, and
slew Hengist in an obstinate and bloody battie at the village of Gonings-
borou^ about five miles from Doncaster. His two sons, Ochta and Abisa,
fled with the shattered remains of their army; the former to York, and the
latter to Aldborough, but they were quickly pursued by Ambrosius, to whom
• Allsn's Hist Torks., p. 21.
76 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
they surrendered, and by whom they were pardoned. According to Gildas,
Ambrosiua perished in a domestic quarrel with Guitolin. Uter, sumamed
Pendragon, succeeded his brother Ambrosius as sovereign, in 490. Ochta
and Abisa soon after revolted, and wasted all the country from the borders of
Scotland to York, which city they infested. The British King defeated them
in battle, and took them prisoners. At the early age of eighteen, Arthur
ascended the throne of Britain; and the Saxons taking advantage of his
youth, made an attempt upon his kingdom. Ochta and Abisa, having
escaped from tlieir captivity, fled home, and returning with a powerful army,
again conquered the northern parts of the kingdom, which they divided into
two sections, or kingdoms ; the northern portion, which was situated north
of the Roman wall, was called Bemida, and its capital was Bamburgh ; and
the more southern, Diefyr, or Deira,* of which York was the capital. Arthur,
notwithstanding his youth, attacked the two brothers, and defeated them in
several battles ; and the following summer he gained a decisive victory over
the Saxons, slaying 90,000 of them on Mount Badon,t including all the
Saxon generals, and the flower of their army. The city of York was de-
livered up to him immediately on his approach.
After all his conquests this renowned monarch was slain in a rebellion of
his own subjects, and by the hands of his own nephew, in 542. Though
some writers assign dates to the exploits of this great chieftain, who is said
to have fought and to have gained twelve battles ; yet Dr. Lingard says res-
pecting him, " if we divest his memory of that fictitious glory, which has
been thrown round it by the imagination of the bards and minstrels, he will
sink into equal obscurity with his fellows. We know neither the period
when he lived, nor the district over which he reigned. * * * Perhaps
when the reader has been told," continues the same author, " that Arthur
was a British chieftain, that he fought many battles, that he was murdered
by his nephew, and was buried at Glastonbury, whero his remains were dis-
covered in the reign of Henry 11., he will have learned all that can be
ascertained at the present day, respecting that celebrated warrior."+ The
manner of the discovery of his remains is said to be as follows : — King Henry
U., whilst in Wales, heard an ancient song of the martial de€ds of Arthur,
accompanied with the music of the harp, in which it was declared that
Glastonbury was the place of his burial. Henry repaired to the spot, and
• The kingdom of Deira comprehended Yorkshire, Durham, Lancashire, Westmor-
land, portions of Northumberland, and Cumberland.
f Badon has been generally supposed to have been the city of Bath.
} lingard's Hist. Bng. vol. i, pp. 71, 72, fcap. 8vo.
OENEBAt. HISTOBT OF TORKSHIRE. 77
having ordered the groond in the church jaxd, between two pyramids, to he
excavated, at the depth of seven feet a broad stone was discovered, to which
was fastened a leaden cross, with this inscription in rude characters : — Hie
Jaeet MepuJUus Rex Arturius in Inaulm AvaUmia, Nine feet deeper, we are
told, his body was found, enclosed in the trunk of a tree hollowed for that
pupose. Arthur must have been a powerful man, for the chroniclers of the
discovery of his remains assert that his shin bone being set on the ground
reached up to the middle of the thigh of a tall man ; and that the space of
his forehead between his eyes was a span broad. His Queen, Guenhera,
whom he had married at York, had been buried near him ; and both their
bones were, by order of the Abbot Stephen, translated into the great church,
and there royally interred under a marble tomb. The time of King Arthur
is generally supposed to be from the year 506 to 542.
Dissensions having arisen and become multipHed among the British
Princes, the Saxons gained an entire conquest over all the Britons, save a
miserable remnant that would not submit to their yoke, and who sought
shelter in the Cambrian mountains, where their posterity, according to Welsh
history, have ever since remained.
The conquest of the northern part of the country by the Saxon chieftains
-was not achieved until the year 547, that is 98 years after the arrival of
Hengist and Horsa in Britain.
Besides England, the Saxons possessed themselves of the greater part of
Scotland, and the Highlanders, who are the true Scots, call them Sassons to
this day. The name of England was established in a.d. 800, when Egbert
assumed the sovereign authority. Several of the counties are mentioned
before the extinction of the Saxon Heptarchy, the smaller provinces or king-
doms of which became counties, as Kent, Sussex, Surrey, and Essex.
Hampshire, Somersetshire, Wiltshire, and Berkshire (portions or shires of
the kingdom of Wessex) are mentioned before the accession of King Alfred,
A.i>. 871; Devon and Cornwall about the same time; Gloucestershire soon
after, and most of the other counties from north to south are named in
history previous to the Norman conquest, where they use the same language
with us, only varying a little in the dialect. And this language we and they
kept in a manner uncomipted, together with the kingdom, for 1,150 years.
Notwithstanding the primitive barbarism of the Saxons,*' writes Oliver,
'they are the people of whom we have the greatest reason to be proud. The
Bomans introduced into this island the arts of civilization, and the comforts
of domestic life, but the Saxons did more. They not only gave to this
kingdom salutary laws, by which the rights and liberties of its inhabitants
Ml
78 GENERAL HI8T0BT OF T0RK8HIRE.
were defined and made secure, but they laid the foundation on which the
flEibrie of our glorious constitution is built; and by the union of wisdom and
piety, they succeeded in gradually forming the minds and manners of society
to an intercourse of superior polish, and conducive to the best interests of
morality and virtue."*
The Hdigion of the Saxons, which was a more barbarous superstition than
that of Druidism, which it superseded, prevailed till nearly the close of the
sixth century. It was chiefly founded on traditional tales received from their
fathers, not reduced to any system. The votive sacrifices of the Britons
were addressed to Hu, the god of peace, but those of the Saxons were
chiefly offered up to Mercury, whom they called Woden, and upon whom they
looked as the deity of war, and the ancestor of their princes. His sacrifices
were men, and the day consecrated to him was the fourth of the week, which
we therefore at this day call Wednesday. They believed that if they could
only propitiate this deity by their valour, they should be admitted after
death into his hall, and there repose on couches, and satiate themselves with
strong drink from the sculls of their enemies whom they had killed in
battle. The sixth day they consecrated to Venus, whom they called Frea
and Frico, firom whence we call that day Friday; as Tuesday is derived from
Tuisco, the founder of the German nation; and Sunday, Monday, and
Saturday, from the gods Sunnan, Monan, and Seater, to whom those days
were dedicated. Thor, whom they looked upon as another powerful god, they
took to be the ruler of the air, and to him they dedicated the fifth day of the
week, or Thursday, and they had also a goddess called Foster, to whom they
sacrificed in the month of April ; which, observes Bede, they call Foster
Monarth, and we at this day call the paschal feast Easter, Besides being
idolatrous, they were likewise strangely superstitous. Camden tells us that
they much used the casting of lots. After cutting a branch from some fruit
tree, they divided it into little slips; each of which they distinguished by
certain marks, and then cast them promiscuously upon a white cloth. If
the consultation was upon public affiiirs, the priest, but if upon private, the
head of the family, after worshipping the gods, took each of the pieces up
three several times, and then gave an interpretation according to the mark
set upon them. To foretell the events of war, they used to take a captive of
the nation against which their design was, and compel him to fight a duel
with one of their own country, and by the issue of this, they concluded which
side woidd conquer.
• Histoiy of Beverley, p. 39.
GENERAL HISTOBT OF TOBESHIBE. 79
The Saxon reiigion remained in the ascendant throughout the greater part
of Britain for more than a centoiy, and the first hlow which it sustained,
irms inflicted hj Pope Gregory the Great, about the year 597. " This excellent
personage sustained a character of much estimation, both as an ecclesiastic
and a poUtician ; and ample justice has been done to his merits, as well by
Mb cotemporaries, as by succeeding generations. To his extraordinary zeal
and persererance, the Anglo-Saxons were most essentially indebted for their
ocmverBion from the hoirible system of idol worship ; and the whole tenor of
his conduct, with few exceptions, was exemplary as a Christian Bishop. He
was a gentleman by birth, education, and manners ; being nobly descended,
and the great grandson of a Pope.* His distinguished talents had been im-
proved in the best manner of the times ; and he devoted his earlier sendees
to the public, in a civil station, as Governor of Rome. Early in the prime
of his days he formed an irresistible bias towards monastic retirement How
weQ calculated soever he might have been for civil employments, to which
his indncements were more numerous and weighty, he voluntarily relinquished
the splendid offisrs of ambition, and attached himself solely to tbexalm pur-
soztB of learning and rdigion* His paternal fortune, which was very con-
sideraUe, he distributed with a liberal hand amongst his kindred, and, with
the small remains of his property, he built and endowed churches and
monasteries. His gradations, fixnn monkish seclusion to the papal throne,
were few, but honourable to himself, and beneficial to those who employed
him."t
Before his pontifieate he had desired to come over to Britain, and obtained
permisnon from the reigning Pope, but was prevented by the people with
whom he was very popular, and who would not suffer him to leave Rome.
This undertafciBg he had always at heart, and it rose from the following in-
cident:— ^Passing through the maiket-plaoe at Rome, sometime before his
elevation to the papal throne, he saw some Saxon youths firom Britain ex-
posed for sale, whom their mercenary parents had sold to the Roman
merchants, according to the custom of all the Teutonic peoples.} We are
told, that stmek with their fine foatores and fair complexion, he enquired the
name of the country which could produce such perfect specimens of the
hmnan fiame, and was answered that they came from Britain. Finding
diat tbej were still heathens, he sighed deeply, and said, " it is a lamentable
that the Prince of Darkness should be master of so much
• Felix n., who died kJ>. 492, the 47th Bishop of Borne,
t History of Beverly, by Bev. O. Oliver, p. 82. * Malmsbuiy historian, i, e. 8.
80 QENSBAL HISTORY OF TOBESHIRE.
beauty, and have so many comely persons in his possession ; and that so
fine an outside should have nothing of God's grace to furnish it within."
Bede adds, that he again asked, what was the name of that nation, and
being told that they were called Angli or Angles, "Right," said he, "for
they have angelical faces, and it becomes such to be companions with the
angels in heaven." " What is the name of the province from which they
are brought," continued he, and upon being told it was Deira, a district of
Northumbria, " Truly, Deira, because they are withdrawn from wrath, and
called to the mercy of Christ," said he, alluding to the Latin De ira Dei
eruti, " What is the name of the King of that province ?" EUa or AUa,
was the reply. " Alleluia," cried he, " the praise of God, the creator, must
be sung in those parts."
Soon after his elevation to the pontifical chair, in 590, he turned his
thoughts to this abandoned part of the vineyard, and dispatched his Mend
Austin, or Augustine, the superior of his own monastery, with forty other
zealous monks, to spread the truths of the gospel in Britain ; and by their
preaching, the Christian religion made such rapid progress that it soon
became the prevailing faith of the country, and Augustine was created Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, in the year 600, and Paulinus, another Roman mis-
sionary. Archbishop of York, in 628. So great was the crowd of converts
to Christianity, that Paulinus is said to have baptized 10,000 persons in one
day in the river Swale, in Yorkshire.'*'
The English no sooner received the truths of Christianity, than with a
most fervent zeal they gave up themselves to it, and employed their best en-
deavours to promote it, by discharging aU the duties of Christian piety, and
by erecting churches and monasteries, so that no part of the Christian world
could either show more or richer religious establishments. So many persons,
eminent for sanctify, did it produce, that England was justly styled the
Island of Saints.
The Saxon conquerors divided Britain into seven portions or kingdoms,
since called the Heptarchy, over each of which a monarch presided. They
lived for a long time in a flourished condition under their Heptarchy, till at
* Speed Brit, p. 313. Camden says, that the Bishop, after having consecrated fhe
Swale, commanded that they should go in two by two and baptise each other in the
name of the Holy Trinity. Thia feat was performed at Belperby. The river Swale was
held sacred by the Saxons, and termed the Jordan of England on account of this won-
derflil baptism by St. Paolinus. The same escploit is related of St Augustine, and both
the rivers are called Swale, though the one runs into the Thames, and the other into
theUre.
G£KEBAL HISTORY OF TORESRIRE.
81
length, as we shall see, all the other kingdoms, shattered with civil wars,
were subdued to that of the West Saxons; and, Egbert, the ambitious
monarch of that kingdom, united them, and published an edict, ordering
the whole Heptarchy to be called EtigleUmd, i. e., The Latid of the Angles,
Camden gives the following Chorographical table of the Saxon Hef«
tabchy: —
1. — ^The Kingdom of Kent
contained
2.— >The Kingdom of the
South SaxoM contained
3. — ^The Kingdom of the
East Angles contained
}
}
4. — ^The Kingdom of the
West Saxons contained
5. — ^The Kingdom of Nor-
thumberland contained
0.— The Kingdom of the
East Saxons contained
1
7.— The Kingdom otMercia
contained
The Ck)unty of
The Counties of
The Counties of
The Counties of
The Counties of
EenU
> The Counties of -*
*- The Counties of «
Sussex.
Surrey.
Norfolk.
Suffolk.
Cambridge, with the
Isle of Ely»
Cornwall.
Devon.
Dorset^
Somerset.
Wilts.
Hants.
^ Berks.
r Lancaster.
York.
Durham.
Cumberland.
Westmorland.
NorthumberlAnd,<rn(i
Scotland to the
Frith of Edin-
burgh.
Essex.
Middlesex, and part
Hertfordshire.
r Gloucester.
Hereford.
Worcester.
Warwick.
Leicester.
Rutland.
Northampton.
Lincoln.
Huntingdon.
Bedford.
Buckingham.
Oxford.
Stafford.
Derby.
Salop.
Nottingham.
Chester, and the
other parts o/Hert-
L fordshire.
I
8d QBNERAL HI8T0BT OF YOBKSHIRE.
Under the Heptarchy York was the capital of the kingdom of Northum-
brian or Northumberland,'!' and its first Saxon King was Ida, of whom
William of Malmsbury writes thus, "The most noble Ida, in the full vigour
of life and strength, reigned in Northumbria. But whether he himself seized
the chief authority, or received it by consent of others, I by no means
venture to determine, because the truth is unrevealed."
Ida died in a.d. 559, and on his death-bed he divided his dominions
between his two sons; giving the part called Deira to Ella, or Alia; and
Bemicia to Adda. It was during this reign that some youths, earned from
this country for sale to Rome, attracted the attention of Gregory, a monk,
afterwards Pope, and which circumstance was in some measure connected
with the re-introduction of the truths of Christianity into Britain, as already
related. Ella, the first Anglo-Saxon King of Deira, left at his death his son
named Edwin, an infant of three yeai's old, for his successor. Ethelfrith, or
Ethelfrid, a grandson of Ida, soon after succeeded to the throne of Bemicia,
and after rendering himself formidable to all his neighbours, particularly the
Picts, Scots, and Welsh, he invaded Deira, from whence he expelled the
infemt E^ng, and united that kingdom to his own dominions. Edwin was
carried to North Wales, and educated by Cadvan, a Prince of that countiy.
For the space of 27 years Edwin wandered, a fugitive Prince, through the
different kingdoms of the Heptarchy without being able to recover his pater-
nal dominions, or even to find a secure asylum, as the power of Ethelfritli
deterred the Saxon Princes from provoking his resentment .by protecting a
forlorn orphan. At length, at the age of 30 years, his many excellent
qualities, and majestic deportment, gained him the favour of Eedwald, King
of East Anglia, and his royal consort; and for a short period he enjoyed, at
the East Anglian court, the sweets of tranquility and repose.
The consequence of this generous act of hospitality on the part of Redwald,
were two hard-fought battles with the tyrant Ethelfrith, in the latter of which
victory was declared in favour of the East Anglians, the Northumbrians
having thrown down their arms, and betaken themselves to flight. Kedwald
advanced into Northumbria without opposition ; the three sons of the usurper,
Eanfrid, Oswald, and Oswy, having fled into Scotland, and the Northum-
brians submitted to Redwald, who not only restored Edwin to the throne of
Deira, his patrimonial inheritance, but also gave him the kingdom of
Bemicia.
"Edwin obtained the kingdoms of Deira and Bemicia in 617," writes
• The kingdom of Northamberland was so called from its situation north of the
river Humber — the land north of the Humber.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 83
Alien, "and in 634 he acquired, though not without much opposition, a de-
cided pre-eminence over the other Princes of the Heptarchy, and assumed the
title of monarch of the Anglo-Saxons, which Redwald had enjoyed during his
life. He claimed an ahsolute authority over the other Kings ; and hy an
ensign carried hefore in the form of a globe, as a symbol of the union of the
Heptarchial goyemment in his person, he gave tliem to understand that he
was not only their head but their master. '>
£dwin now demanded in marriage Ethelburgha, daughter of the late
Ethelbert, the first Christian Eingf of the English, and sister of Ebald,
Eadbald, or Ethelbald, King of Kent, a Princess of great beauty and virtue ;
but his proposal met with a refusal which he, then in the acme of his power,
had not expected. She was a Christian, and he yet an idolater. She would
not renounce her £uih for the splendour of a throne; nor would she become
the consort of Edwin, unless she might be allowed the free exercise of her
own religion. Edwin submitted to this, and Ethelburgha brought with her
Paulinas, a Roman Missionary and Christian Bishop, as well as Christian
attendants. On Easter eve, in 626, the Queen was delivered of a daughter;
and on Easter day an assassin, named Eumer, sent by Quichelm, King of
the West Saxons, being admitted into the presence of King Edwin, attempted
to stab him with a poisoned dagger. He would have certainly killed him, if
liDa, his favourite and faithful minister, had not, for want of a buckler, inter-
posed his own body, and so saved the King's life with the loss of his own.
The dagger wounded the King through the body of his officer. The ruffian
was cut to pieces upon the spot, but not before he had killed another of the
courtiers. The King returned thanks to the Gods for his preservation ; but
Paulinus told him it was the effect of the prayers of his Queen, and exhorted
him to thank the true God, for his merciful protection of his person, and for
her safe delivery. The King was pleased with this discourse, and soon after
he began to examine the subject of religion. He consented that his infant
daughter should be consecrated to God, and she was baptized on Whit-Sunday,
and called Eanfleda, being the first fruits of the kingdom of Northumbria.
These things happened in the royal residence upon the Derwent, says Bede;
that is, near the Roman station Derventius, or Derventio, mentioned by
• Allen's Hist. Yorks., p. 28.
* Aooording to Camden, the word "King** is derived fh>m the Saxon Cyning, or
Canynff, which signifies the same; and that from can, "power," or ken, "knowledge,*'
wherewith every monarch is supposed to be invested. The Latin rex, the Scythian reix,
the Pmuc pedch, the Spanish rey, and the French roy, came all, according to Postel,
from the Hebrew nueh, " chief head."
84 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Antonius, iu his Itinerary of Britain. The place is near to Stamford Bridge,
and is now cailed Aldby, tliat is, Old Dwelling; and near to it Camden
noticed the rums of an old castle.
The King moreover promised Paulinus, that if God restored him his
health, and made him victorious over those who had conspired so basely to
take away his life, he would become himself a Christian. When his wound
was healed, he assembled his army, marched against the King of the West
Saxons, vanquished him in the field, and either slew or took prisoners all
the authors of the wicked plot of liis assassination. From this time he no
more worshipped idols; yet he deferred to accomplish his promise of re-
ceiving baptism. Paulinus continued to exhort him, and to pray earnestly
for his conversion ; and Edwin was willingly instructed in the faith, often
meditated on it by himself, and consulted with the wisest among his great
officers. Pope Boniface sent him an exhortatory letter, witli presents; and a
silver looking-glass and an ivory comb to his Queen. At length a day was
appointed when the subject of religion was to be discussed in the presence oi
the court ; Paulinus was to point out the evidences of Christianity, whilst
Coefi, or, as it is written by Bede in the Northumbrian dialect, Coifi, Edwin's
high priest, was to defend the idolatry of his fathers. The result of this
discussion was that Coifi, the high priest of the idols, declared that by expe-
rience it was manifest that their Gods had no power, and he advised the
King to command fire to be set to the pagan temples and altars. The King
asked him who should first profane them. Coifi answered that he, himself,
who had been the foremost in their worship, ought to do it for an example to
others. Then he desired to be furnished with arms and a horse; for,
according to their superstition, it was not lawful for the high priest to bear
any arms, or to ride on a horse, but only a mare. Being thereupon mounted
on the King's own horse, with a sword by his side, and a spear in his hand,
he rode to the temple, which he profaned by casting his spear into it He
then commanded those that accompanied him to pull it down, and bum it.
The parish church of Godmanham now occupies the site of this temple.
Tliis place, says Bede, the venerable patriarch of Saxon history, writing in
731, is to the east of York, beyond the Derwent, and is called Godmmiding-
ham. It retains to this day the name of Godmanham. Mr. Wright, in
his Wanderings of an Antiquary, recently published, thinks it possible
that Londesborough, in the East Riding, may have been the site of King
Edwin's residence, that place being but one mile distant from the Pagan
temple.
On Easter Day (Apiil 12th, 627), King Edwin and several of his nobles
GENERAL HFStORY OF YORKSHIRE. 85
were baptized by PauUnus at York, in a small wooden church or oratory,
hastily erected, and dedicated to St. Peter. Edwin afterwards began a large
church of stone, in which this was enclosed, and which was finished by St.
Oswald, one of his successors. Paulinus fixed his episcopal See at York, with
the approbation of King Edwin, and continued to preach freely during the
remaining six years of this Prince's reign. The people flocked in crowds to
receiye the sacrament of baptism, and, as we have seen at pages 28 and 80,
the good Bishop baptized them in multitudes in the rivers. When the King
and Queen were at their country palace of Yeverin, in Glendale, among the
Bemicians in Northumberland, the Bishop was occupied 36 days together,
horn morning till night, in instructing persons, and baptizing them in the
little river Glen. When Paulinus was with the court in the country of the
Deiri he baptized in the river Swale, near Catterick. Edwin built a church
near this place in honour of St. Alban, from which a new town arose, which
was called Albansbury, and since Almondbury. The royal palace at that
place was burnt by the pagans after the death of King Edwin. His succes-
sors had their country palace in the territory of Loidis, or Leeds, where a
town of that name was afterwards built.
Edwin's reign, of 17 years, is the brightest in the annals of the Heptarchy.
He reclaimed his subjects from the licentious life to which they had been
accustomed, and was distinguished for his strict and impartial administration
of justice. It was proverbial in his reign that a woman or child might
openly carry from sea to sea a purse of gold without any danger of violence
OT robbery. As no inns or houses of public entertainment existed in those
days, and as travelling was difficult and tedious, he caused stakes to be fixed
in the highways near unto clear springs, and brazen dishes to be chained to
them, to refresh the weary sojourner, whose fatigues Edwin had himself
experienced. The English enjoyed so perfect tranquillity and security
throughout the dominions of King Edwin, that his peace was proverbial.
And his Christian virtues were very remarkable. He was equally zealous to
practice himself, and to propagate on all sides the maxims and truths of
Christianity. Indeed the English nation generally received the faith with a
fervour equal to that of the primitive Christians; and Kings, who frequently
find the greatest obstacles to virtue, often set their subjects the strongest
examples of the most heroic virtues. Several monarchs exchanged their
purple and sceptres for hair cloth, their palaces for poor mean cells, and
their power and command for the humility of obedience. After ha>dng spent
flix years in the practice of the Christian virtues, God was pleased to visit
him with afflictions to raise him to the glory of martyrdom.
86 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Penda, the pagan King of Mercia, united with Ceadwalla, King of Gwynez
or North Wales, to destroy all the English Christians. Edwin met them at
a place afterwards called Hevenfield'*' (now Heathfield or Hatfield), a village
seven miles from Doncaster, and in a most bloody battle, fought October
12th, 633, lost his crown and life, in the 48th year of his age.f His head
was buried in the porch of the church he had built at York, and the re-
mainder of his body was deposited in the Abbey of Whitby.
The victors now at the head of a vast army, ravaged the kingdom of the
Northumbers, and York, its capital, in a most barbarous manner. His only
son, Osfhd, being slain with his father, Osric and Eanfrid, the two nearest
relatives of Edwin, were chosen Kings of Deira and Bemicia; but the former
was defeated and slain in battle by the Welsh King, and his brother Eanfrid
was cruelly and treacherously put to death by Ceadwalla at York, in 634,
though he came to that city with only twelve attendants, for the purpose of
treating for peace. Osric and Eanfrid had formerly received baptism, the
former from Paulinus, and the latter from the monks of St Columba, at
Icolmkill; but each relapsed into the errors of paganism. The indignant
piety of the Northumbrians expunged the names of these apostate Princes
from the catalogue of their Kings, and the time in which they reigned was
distinguished in their annals by the expressive term, " The unhappy year."
Oswald, the younger of the sons of Ethelfirid, and nephew of Edwin, whose
sister Acca was his mother, was called to the united throne of the Northum-
bers in 635. This Prince, who had in the preceding reign fled to Scotland,
and embraced Christianity whilst in exile, assembled a small but valiant
army, and marched into Northumberland against Ceadwalla, who had laid
waste the country with fire and sword as far as the Picts' wall. Oswald gave
the tyrant battle at a place called by Bede, Denisbum, that is the brook
Denis, adjoining the Picts* wall on the north side, and gained a complete
victory; Ceadwalla (who used to boast that he had been bom for the exter-
mination of the Angles), with the greater part of his army being slain on the
field.
Having thus firmly established himself on the Northumbrian throne,
Oswald set himself to restore good order throughout his dominions, and to
plant in them the faith of Christ. He entreated the King and Bishops of
Ireland, then called Scotia, to send him a Bishop and assistants, by whose
* This name was given to it on account of the great number of ChristianB there slain
in this engagement.
i On St. Edwin see Bede Hist i. ii., c. 9, 10, 12, 15, 20.
OENE&AL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 87
preaching the people whom he governed might be grounded in the Christian
religion, and receive baptism. Aidan, a monk of the celebrated monastery of
Hy, — a man no less venerable for his virtues, than eminent for his learning,
— was chosen for this great and arduous undertaking. The King bestowed
on Aidan the Isle of Lindisfame, since called Holy Island, for his episcopal
seat, and thus was founded that ancient See which was afterwards removed
to Doiham, By the great labours of Aidan, aided by the piety and munifi-
cence of Oswald, Christianity was firmly established, and maintained its
influence amid all the wars and revolutions which succeeded. Oswald filled
his dominions with churches and monasteries; and his own virtues were so
great and numerous, that many years after his death they procured for him
the honour of canonization.
During eight years Oswald reigned in such prosperity, that the Welsh, the
Picts, and the Scots are said to have paid him tribute. But the fate of
Edwin awaited Oswald. During a progress which he made in Shropshire,
attended but by a few firiends besides his domestic servants; Penda, the
baxbarous Eing of the Mercians, who envied the greatness of Oswald, and
detested his religion — and who nine years before had slain the pious King
£dwin — secretely raised an army, and endeavoured to accomplish by strata-
gem and surprise, what he dare not attempt in open battle. The treacherous
and cowardly wretch fiercely assaulted and killed Oswald at Masserfield, since
called Oswestry, or Oswaltre, that is Oswald*s Cross, about seven miles from
Shrewsbuiy; and he had the ferocity to cause the head and limbs to be
severed from the trunk, and fixed on high poles driven in the ground as
trophies of his yictory,* This treacherous act was performed on the 5th of
August, 64d. Penda afterwards ravaged Northumbria, but the royal castle
of Bebbaborough (Bamborough, in Northumberland) was the first place that
yentuivd to stop his destructive progress. Situated on a rock, and protected
• Camden, Capgrave, and others think this is the place where St. Oswald was slain;
but Alban Butler imagines the scene of his death to be Winwich, in Lancashire, which
w«a anciently called Maserfleld, or Maserfelth, and where is a well still called St.
Oswald's, whieh was formerly viaited oat of devotion. There are many churches in
Kngland dedicated to God in honour of St. Oswald. The year after his martyrdom, his
brother Oswy took his body off the poles upon which the tyrant had affixed them ; he
MUt the head to lindisfiime, and it was afterwards put in the same shrine with the
body of St Gttthbert, and was with it translated to Durham, as the Malmsbury hiatorian
and others assure us. The rest of St. Oswald's body was Uien translated to the monas-
teiy of Bardney in lineolnshire. Part of the relics were afterwards translated to the
Abbey of Sl Winoc's Berg, in Flanders, in 1221, and deposited there with great solem.
nity hy Adam, Bishop of Terouanne. St. Aldan, the first Bishop of lindisftme, was
also eanonized.
88 GENERAIi HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
on one side by a steep ascent, and on the other side by the German Ocean,
it bade defiance to the tyrant. But here he displayed the ferocity of his dis-
position. By his order the neighbouring villages were demolished, every
combustible material was collected from the ruins and reared up in an im-
mense pile against the walls, and as soon as the wind blew fiercely towards
the city, fire was set to the pile. But as the fire and smoke was being wafted
over the heads of the trembling inhabitants, the wind suddenly changed, and
the fire spent its fury in the opposite direction. Chagrined and confoundedi
Penda raised the siege, evacuated the kingdom, and turned his arms against
the King of East Anglia. Soon after his retreat in 648, the Northumbrian
Thanes placed Oswy or Oswio, the brother of Oswald, on the united throne,
but in the second year of his reign appeared a dangerous competitor of the
house of Ella, in the person of Oswin, the son of Osric; and prudence or
necessity induced him to consent to a compromise, and Oswin was crowned
King of Dcira, whilst he reserved to himself Bemicia and the northern
conquests.
Oswy, who was never pleased at this division of the kingdom, afterwards
asserted his claim to the throne of Deira, and obliged Oswin to arm in his
own defence. According to Bede, Oswin was of a religious rather than a
martial disposition ; and regarding it criminal to shed the blood of his sub*
jects for the support of his throne, privately withdrew from his army, with
the intention of taking refuge in a monastery; but before he could execute
his design, he was betrayed to Oswy, who inhumanly murdered him in the
hopes of more easily seizing his kingdom. The people of Deira, however,
dreading the dominion of so cruel a Prince, immediately elected his nephew,
Adelwald, or Odilwald, son of his brother Oswald, as their King, and thus
was Oswy foiled in his ambition.
Adelward commenced his reign in 653, and for three years the kingdom of
Deira experienced an interval of peace. Oswy still persevered in his claim
to this kingdom, and Adelwald, fearing that his uncle would seize the first
opportunity to execute his designs, listened to a proposal of a league with the
Kings of Mercia and East AngUa against the King of Bemicia. The Mer-
cian King, seeing himself supported by the armies of East Anglia and Deira,
refused every overture for peace, and Oswy was obliged to try the fortune of
war with three powerful enemies. The nigl^t before the eventful contest he
fervently implored the assistance of heaven, and vowed if he was victorious to
devote his infant daughter Elfieda to the service of God in monastic seclusion.
But while the two armies were advancing to the scene of action, Adelwald
was forming new projects ; he wisely considered that to whichever side the
OBKERAL HISTOBT OF T0BK8HIBE. 89
tictoiy inclined, it would be equally dangerous to hin^, and that the ambition
of Penda, as well as of Oswy, might hurl him from his throne. He therefore
resolved to stand neuter during the battle, and save his own troops, in order
to defend his dominions against the conqueror. Penda attacked the Ber-
nicians with great impetuosity ; but as soon as the Mercians saw Adelwald
draw off his division they suspected some treachery, and began to give way,
and no possible effort could rally them. The Kings of Mercia and East
^nglm were slain, and their armies routed with terrible slaughter. Thus fell
the ciueL and treacherous Penda, after he had stained his sword with the
blood of two Northumbrian Kings — ^Edwin and Oswald ; and three Kings of
Cast Anglia — Sigebert, Egric, and Annas. With this hoary veteran, who
was 80 years old, and who had reigned 30 years, fell 28 vassal chieftains, or
conunanders of royal blood. This decisive battle wasibught at Winwidfield
(VVinmoor), or Field of Victory, situated on the northern bank of the river
Winwald, now Aire, near Loyd^n, now Leeds, on the 15th of November, 655.
After the battle Oswy overran the kingdoms of the fallen monarchs, and sub-
dued the astonished inhabitants. Mercia he divided into two portions ; the
province on the north of the Trent he annexed to his own dominions ; those
on the south he allowed to be governed by Peada, the son of Penda, who had
married his daughter. But Peada soon after perished by the treachery, it is
said, of his wife, and his territory was immediately occupied by the North-
umbrians.
In fulfilment of his vow, Oswy placed his child Elfleda, who was not yet
one year old, under the care of the Abbess Hilda at Hartlepool; and her
dower was fixed at ISO hides of land in Bemicia, and at an equal number in
Deinu This munificent donation enabled the sisterhood to remove their
establishment to a more convenient situation at Whitby, where the royal nun
liyed the space of 59 years in the practice of the monastic duties, during one
half of which she exercised the office of Abbess. The King soon afterwards,
stung with remorse for the murder of Oswin, founded and endowed another
monastery at Gilling, on the very spot in which that Prince had been slain ;
and the community of monks were bound to pray daily for the soul of the
murdered King, and for that of the royal murderer.* Oswy had now under
his control a greater extent of territory than had belonged to any of his pre-
decessors ; but long before his death the tyrannical conduct of his officers
caused the Mercians to revolt, and expel the Northumbrians ; and the sceptre
was conferred on Wulphere, the youngest son of Penda, who had been
anxiously concealed from the researches of Oswy.
* Bede iiL, 24. Kennios, c. 64.
90 OENERAJL HISTORY OF YORXSHIRe.
A few years afterwards Adelwald died without issue, and Northumbria was
again united in one kingdom under Oswy. But this re-union was of short
duration, for Alchfrid, his eldest son, demanded a portion of the Northum-
brian territory, with the title of King. It is not clear what means he used to
oblige his father to give up to him the kingdom of Deira, but this is certain
that Oswy was induced to divide with him his dominions ; and thus did he
resign that crown which he so long and so anxiously desired to unite with
his own.
Christianity had now been preached in all the Saxon kingdoms except
Sussex, but as the missionaries had come from different countries, though
they taught the same doctrine, they disagreed in several points of ecclesias-
tical discipline. Of these the most important regarded the canonical time
for the celebration of Easter, a subject which had for several centuries dis-
turbed tiie peace of the church. It was universally admitted that it depended
on the commencement of the equinoctial lunation ; but the Roman astrono-
mers differed from the Alexandrinian, the former contending that the
lunation might begin as early as the 5th, whilst the latter maintained that it
could not begin before the 8th of March. The consequence of this diversity
of opinion was, that when the new moon fell on the 6 th, 6th, or 7th of that
month, the Latin celebrated the feast of Easter a full lunation before the
Greek Christians. Weary of the disputes occasioned by these computations,
the Roman church, in the middle of the sixth century, had adopted a new
cycle, which agreed in every important point with the Alexandrinian calcula-
tion. But this arrangement was unknown to the British Christians, who at
that period were wholly employed in opposing the invaders of their country ;
and they continued to observe the ancient cycle, which was now become
peculiar to themselves.
Hence it occasionally happened that Easter, and the other festivals
depending on that solemnity, were celebrated at different times by the Saxon
Christians, according as they had been instructed by the Scottish, or by the
Roman and Gallic missionaries; and thus did Oswy see his own family
divided into factions, and the same festivals solemnized on different days in.
his own palace. Wilfrid, afterwards Archbishop of York, having been in-
structed at Rome in the discipline of the church, was requested by AlchMd,
the son of Oswy, to instruct him and his people in ecclesiastical discipline ;
and Oswy, desirous to end the dispute, and to procure uniformity, summoned
tiie champions of the two parties to meet at the monastery at Streaneshalch,
now Whitby, in 664. The Kings, Oswy and Alchfrid, were present at this
conference. Wilfrid rested the cause of the Romans on the authority of St.
aSKERAL HISTORY OF TOBKBHIBB. 91
Peter, and the practice of the uniyersal church ; and after a long debate it
appeared clear to the great majority of the monks and ecclesiastics present,
that those were in error who differed in this and other matters from the
practice of the Roman church. Rapin and some others pretend that the
Scots or Irish and the Britons were for some time schismatics in consequence
of these matters ; but tbese writers are mistaken, for the Saxon Christians
did not coincide with the Quartodecimans, who had been condemned by the
church, nor had this difference between them and the uniyersal church then
proceeded to a breach of communion.*
Soon after this conference the See of Canterbury became yacant by the
death of Deusdedit; Oswy consulted with Egbert, the King of Kent, and by
their concurrence the presbyter Wighard, who had been chosen to succeed
to the Archiepiscopal dignity, was sent to Rome to ask the adyice of the
Apostolic See on the subject of discipline. But the new prelate died at Rome
of a dreadful and fatal pestilence, which was then rayaging Britain and
Ireland, and which he had escaped in his own country. In a letter from
Pope Yitalian to Oswy, annoimcing his death, the Pontiff assures the King,
that he would select for the See of Canterbury a person equal to so exalted a
station ; and after some delay the learned and yirtuous Theodorus, a monk of
Tarsus, was landed in Kent with the title of Archbishop of Britain. His
authority was immediately acknowledged by all the Saxon prelates, synods
were held, and unifonnily of discipline was ererywhere observed.
Oswy died in 670, in the 29th year of his reign, and the sceptre of North-
umbria was transferred to the hands of Egfrid, or Ecgfrid, his son by Anfleda,
the daughter of Ekiwin. Some writers say that Alchfiid, his eldest son, was
still aliye, but lejected on account of illegitimacy, and that he ascended the
throne after the death of Egfrid; others assert that he ruled in Deira up to
about the time of his father's death, when his subjects reyolted against him,
and he retired to Ireland, where he deyoted himself to learning and piety
until the death of Egfrid. But Dr. Lingard teUs us, that after a dlHgent
examination of Bede, it appeared to him that these writers haye confounded
Alch^d and Aldfrid, and made the two but one person. Aldftid, who was
illegitimate, and thought to be the son of Oswy, hyed in spontaneous exile in
Ireland through his desire of knowledge, and was called to the throne after
the decease of the legitimate offspring of Oswy.
Though the royal families of Northumbria and Mercia were allied by
maniage, the ambition of Egfrid led him to inyade that kingdom in 679. A
• Bed6 iii., 35, M.
99 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
conflict took place on the banks of the Trent, but peace was restored by the
interposition of Archbishop Theodorus.*
In 685, this restless monarch, who laboured incessantly to preserve and
enlarge his dominions, invaded the territories of the ficts, for the purpose of
depredation or conquest, and was killed by them in battle in the 40th year
of his age, and the 15th of his reign. Egfrid dying without issue, the North-
umbrian Thanes offered the crown to Alfred, or Aldfrid, the reputed but
illegitimate son of Egfrid. During the last reign he had retired to the
western isles, and had devoted the time of his exile to study, under the
instruction of the Irish monks. His proficiency obtained for him from his
contemporaries the title of the learned King. He displayed great moderation
and virtue in governing his kingdom, and after reigning happily for 19 years,
he died in 705, and is said to have been buried at Little Driffield, in the
East Riding of Yorkshire. Osred, the eldest son of Alfred, a child eight
years of age, succeeded his father. During the minority of this Prince, a
nobleman, named Eadulph, usurped the sceptre, and besieged the royal infant
and his guardian in the strong foilress of Bamborough ; but the nobles and
people rising in defence of their Sovereign, the usurper was taken prisoner,
and put to death, after a tumultuous reign of two months. Osred, however,
as he advanced towards manhood, lost, by his licentious conduct, the affections
of the people, which Ceonred and Osric (two brothers, descendants of a natural
son of Ida, the first Anglo-Saxon King of Northumbria), perceiving, formed
a party against him, and were supported by the whole body of the clergy.
At length they raised the standard of revolt, and Osred was defeated and
slain on the banks of Winandermere, in 716, being the 19th year of his age,
and 11th of his reign. Ceonred, who then mounted the throne, died in 718,
and was succeeded by his brother Osric, who reigned peaceably 11 years,
but was slain in 780. The next King of Northumbria was Ceolwulf, the
brother of his predecessor, who, in the 8th year of his reign, voluntarily
retired to the monastery of Lindisfame, where he passed the remainder of
his life. Ceolwulf was the patron of the Venerable Bede, the ecclesiastical
historian. In the year 737, Eadbert, the cousin of Ceolwulf, was crowned,
and, after enlarging his kingdom, and reigning 31 years, he followed the
example of his predecessor, by seeking the peaceful tranquillity of the
cloister. This monarch's brother was Archbishop of York. Oswulf, the son
and successor of Eadbert, was assassinated in 758, in the first year of his
reign ; his Thanes having conspired against liim. The next Northumbrian
• Bcde iv., c. 81.
GENERAL HI8T0RT OF Y0RE8HIBE. 93
monarch was Mol Edilwold, who, though not of royal blood, was [raised to
the throne by the sof&age of the people. He too was conspired against, and
put to death by Alchred, a descendant of Ida, who usurped the throne in
765. This monarch reigned 9 years; but in 774 he was expelled, and
£thelred, the son of Edilwold, was chosen in his stead. This Prince was
obliged by his subjects to abdicate, and seek refuge in a neighbouring king-
dom in 770.
Alfwold, the son of Oswulf, and grandson of Eadbert, was now placed on
the throne; and though he reigned 11 years, honoured and beloved, yet he
yielded up his hfe at the hands of the Ealdorman Sigan. The murderer put
a period to his own existence five years later.
In 785 Pope Adrian sent two papal legates, the Bishops of Ostia and
Tudertum, to England. Soon after their arrival they convoked two synods,
the one in Northiunbria, the other in Mercia. At the latter synod, which
was attended by all the Princes and prelates in the country, the legates read
a code of ecclesiastical laws, composed by the Sovereign Pontiff, for the
government of the Anglo-Saxon church. It was heard with respect, and
subscribed by all the members.'S'
la 789 Osred 11., son of Alchred, was advanced to the throne of Northum-
bria, and the following year he was deposed by the Thanes, and he retired
to the Isle of Man. Ethelred was then recalled, and returned with a thirst
for revenge, and was replaced on the throne. Soon after his restoration he
ordered Eardulf, one of his most powerful opponents, to be slain at the door
of the church of Eipon. The monks carried the body into the choir, and
during the funeral service it was observed to breathe ; proper remedies were
applied to the wounds, and the future King of Northumbria recovered, and
was carefully concealed in the monastery. This act of cruelty was followed
by the murder of Elf and Elwin, the two sons of King Alfwold.- Osred now
Tetumed from the Isle of Man, and braved his rival to battle ; but he was
deserted by his followers, and added another to the victims of Ethelred*s
ambition. This monster repudiated his own wife, and married the daughter
of OfCa, the powerful King of Mercia. In the third year of his reign a total
failure of the harvest reduced the inhabitants to flamine, to which were soon
added the ravages of pestilence ; and to complete their misfortunes, an army
of Danes landed on the coast, pillaged the country, and destroyed the venerable
church of Lindisfame. All these calamities were attributed to the impru-
dence of Ethelred ; and in the fourth year of his restoration he fell in a
• Saxon Chronicle, 64. Wilk. Con. p. 152, 164.
94 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
fruitless attempt to quell the rising discontent of his subjects. 'i' The ad-
herents of Osbald now placed -him on the throne ; but after a short reign of
27 days, the opposite faction gained the ascendancy, and Osbald was deposed,
and found safety in a monastery.
Eardulf, whose life had been saved by tlie monks of Kipon, then grasped
the sceptre, stained by the blood of so many Princes ; but civil dissensions
had now prevailed to an alarming extent, and in 808 he was obliged to fly
from the fury of his rebellious subjects, and take refuge in the court of
Charlemagne. Alfwald, the head of the faction by which Eardulf was
dhven from his kingdom, undertook to sway this dangerous sceptre ; but he
reigned only two years, and his death left the crown to Eanred, in whose
reign the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria ceased to be independent
During the last century Northumbria had exhibited successive instances
of treachery and murder, to which no other country perhaps can furnish a
parallel. The monarchs, with few exceptions, were restless and ambitious,
and the inconstancy of the Thanes was fatal to the ambition of the monarchs.
Out of the fourteen kings who had assumed the sceptre during that century,
only one, if one, died in the peaceable possession of royalty ; seven were
slain, and six were banished from the throne by their rebellious subjects.
And the same anarchy and perfidy prevailed till the Danes totally extin-
guished the Northumbrian dynasty, by the slaughter of Ella and Osbert, in
the year 867.
Egbert, the only remaining Prince of the house of Cerdic — deriving his
descent from that conqueror, through Inigils, the brother of Ina — having
been compelled to quit this country, was well received at the court of Char-
lemagne. For tliree years he had enjoyed considerable command in the
armies of that Emperor ; and having improved the period of his exile in
acquiring a proficiency in the arts of war and government, he returned to
Britain, and was called to the throne of Northumbria ; and by his eminent
abilities, and great experience, he was enabled to unite the seven kingdoms
of the Heptarchy into one monarchy, about 890 years after the first arrival
of the Saxons in this country.
The authority acquired by Egbert over the tributary kingdoms was very
soon weakened by the incursions of the Danes. Their invasions gradually
became more frequent and formidable ; and while the Kings of Wessex, suc-
cessors of Egbert, were fully employed in defending their own dominions, they
could only maintain a precarious sovereignty over the other kingdoms.
Saxon Cbron. 6i, 65.
OENEBAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBB. 05
Those rapacioas, restless, and cruel spoilers, the Danes, in whom we do
not find a single redeeming virtue, made their first appearance on our shores
about the year 787,* hut they did not succeed in forming a permanent
establishment until a.d. 867, in which year they fitted up a mighty fleet, and
taking advantage .of the party divisions of the inhabitants, during the inaus-
picious reign of Ethelred, invaded the kingdom, penetrated with complete
success into the northern districts, and secured to themselves the sceptre of
Northumbria. In proceeding through the country they burnt cities, de-
stroyed churches, wasted the land, overturned everytliing in their way, and
with the most barbarous cruelty murdered the Kings of the East Angles and
Mercians. "Language cannot describe their devastations. It can only
repeat the terms, plunder, murder, rape, famine, and distress. It can only
enumerate towns, villages, churches, and monasteries, harvests, and libraries
ransacked and burnt. But by the incessant repetition, the horrors are
diminished; and we read, without emotion, the narrative of deeds which rent
the hearts of thousands with anguish, and inflicted wounds on human happi-
ness, and human improvement, which ages with difficulty healed, "f " Ex-
punge the name of one King from their records," says a learned writer, in
speaking of the Danes, " and their political existence in England exhibits
nothing but a deformed mass of perfidy and slaughter, profligacy and crime."
The Northumbrians being the most remote from Wessex, at length
recovered their independence, and Osbert, or Orbrightus, was raised to the
throne. Discord and party spirit, which for such a length of time disturbed
the kingdom, and which for a while seemed to be extinguished, was revived
by the licentious tyranny of the new King, and the flames of civil war were
floon enkindled m Northumbria. Returning one day from hunting, Osbert
called at the mansion of one of his nobles, named Bruem Brocard, guardian
of the sea coasts, and not finding him at home, violated by force the chastity
of his wife. To revenge this insult, Bruem excited a revolt of the Bemicians ;
Osbert was declared unworthy to govern, and another King, named Ella, was
elected to the throne of Bemicia. Thus was Northumbria once more divided
between two Kings, and two factions, who were continually aiming at each
other s destruction. No sooner was the Bemician monarch seated on the
• Hoveden, pw 4a f Tom. Aug. Sax., vol. iL, p. 180*
06 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
throne, than he, stimulated by Earl Bruem, endeavoured to dispossess Osbert
of the crown of Deira, and a sanguinary civil war ensued, in which the
equality of the forces of the two Kings prevented the scale turning on either
side. At length Bruem rashly and inconsiderately resolved to 'sail to Den-
mark, and to soHcit assistance, which was but too readily granted.
Urged by ambition and revenge, the King of Denmark eagerly entered into
the enterprise. His revenge is said to have been excited by the alleged cruel
treatment of a Danish General, named Lothbroc, the father of Hinguar and
Hubba, who being alone in a small boat was driven by accident to the coast
of Norfolk. Historians tell us, that he was well received and hospitably
treated at the court of Edmund, King of the East Angles; that he was an
accomplished sportsman, and became so conspicuous for his dexterity, as to
obtain a distinguished place in the royal favour. That Bern, the King*s
huntsman, growing jealous of him, took an opportunity of drawing him to a
thicket, where he murdered him, and concealed the body. That the corpse
was discovered by means of Lothbroc 's dog ; that Bern was tried and found
guilty of the murder, and the sentence passed upon him was, that he should
be put into the murdered man's boat, and without tackling or provision, com-
mitted to the mercy of the waves. That the boat, by a singular fatality, was
cast upon the coast of Denmark, and that being known, Bern was appre-
hended, and examined concerning the fate of Lothbroc. That in order to
exculpate himself, Bern told the Danish authorities, that Lothbroc had, by
the King's command, been thrown into a pit, and stimg to death by serpents.
They add that Bruem arrived in Denmark shortly after this circumstance,
and that measures were speedily concerted for the invasion of Deira. But
Dr. Lingard gives a different version of the cause of this descent of the Danes*
on the authority of Asser, Ingulphus, the Saxon Chronicle, Leland, and
Turner. He tells us, that during the reign of Ethelbert, King of Wessex,
the predecessor of Ethelred, one of the most adventurous and successful of
the Sea-Kings, or pirate chieftains, named Eagnar Lodbrog, constmcted a
number of large ships for the purpose of invading England ; that owing to
the unskilfulness of the mariners, or the violence of the weather, the vessels
were wrecked on the coast of Northumbria. That Bagnar, with several of
his followers reached the shore, and heedless of the consequences, commenced
their usual career of depredation. That Ella flew to the coast, fought with
the plunderers, made Bagnar prisoner, and put him to death; and that his
sons, Inguar and Ubbo, who swore to avenge the murder, collected to their
standard the combined forces of 8 Sea-Kings, with SO Jarls, consisting of
several^thousand warriors, and in the reign of Ethelred landed on the coast
OEKERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 97
of East Anglia without opposition.* It seems ceitain, however, that soon
after the death of Ragnar, that a mighty fleet, commanded by the two
brothers, Hinguar and Hubba, entered the Humbor, and spread terror and
dismay all over the country. The Xorthurabrians being wholly ignorant of
their design, were not in readiness to dispute their landing, consequently they
soon became masters of the northern shore, and having burnt and destroyed
the towns on the Holdemess coast, they marched directly towards York,
where Osbert was preparing an army to oppose them.
In this great extremity Osbert was constrained to apply to his mortal foe^
EUa, for assistance, and to the great credit of the latter, he willingly agreed
to suspend their private quarrel, and join forces against the common enemy.
Without waiting the arrival of Ella's reinforcement, Osbert sallied out of
York, and attacked the Danes so vigorously, that they could hardly stand the
shock. But pressing in their turn, the Danes compelled the British army to
retire without any order, into the city. Osbert, in endeavouring to rally his
scattered troops, was slain in the retreat with a great number of his men.
The victors now entered York in triumph, whilst Ella was advancing in hopes
of repairing the loss Osbert had sustained by his impatience. Hinguar
having conquered one of the Kings, went out to meet the other, and a battle
no less bloody, and £a,tal to the English, ensued. Ella was killed, and his
army entirely routed. Some historians state that Ella was not slain in the
battle, but taken prisoner, and that Hinguar ordered him to be flayed alive
in revenge for his father's murder.
Hovedon thus describes the horrible sufferings of the inhabitants of York
on this occasion: — "By the General's cruel orders they knocked down all the
bojs ; young and old men they met in the city, and cut their throats; matrons
and virgins were ravished at pleasure ; the husband and wife, either dead or
dying, were tossed together ; the infant, snatched from its mother's breast,
was carried to the threshold, and there left butchered at its parent's door, to
make the general outcry more hideous." According to the same authority,
as well as that of the Saxon Chronicle, this battle was fought on the 21st of
March, 867.
The kingdom of Northumbria was thus conquered by the Danes, after it
had been in the possession of the Saxons for 3S0 years. Hinguar now ap-
pointed his brother Huhba, Governor of York, and gave him also the command
of the newly-won kingdom. A deputy Governor, named Godram, with a
ganrison under his command, was left in the city, whilst the two brothers
• lingard's Hist, of England, vol. i. p. 155. Fcp. 8vo.
0
OS GENERAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIRE.
pushed their conquests southwards. In 870, Hinguar and Hubba returned
to York, and constituted Egbert, a Saxon, devoted to their cause, Bong of
Northumbria. He was, however, soon deposed, and Kingsidge, a Dane, was
proclaimed King. The populace of York, being much enraged at this, mur-
dered the Dane, and restored Egbert His second reign was of short duration,
for the Danes, increasing in power, divided the kingdom of Northumbria
amongst three of their own officers. Sithric, a Dane, and Nigel his brother,
reigned beyond the Tyne in the year 877; and Reginald, also a Dane,
governed the city of York, and all the coimtry between the rivers Tyne and
Humber, at the same period. The success of the Danes in Northumbria, as
well as in the south, compelled the Anglo-Saxon Kings and Princes to con-
federate for mutual defence, and by the skill and wisdom of Alfred the Great,
King of Wessex, the invaders were subdued in 880, after that renowned
monarch had emerged from his retreat in a swineherd*s cottage. To prevent
the rapine and disorders which formerly prevailed in the realm, Alfred divi-
ded part of the kingdom into Counties, Hundreds, and Tithings, caused the
inhabitants of each district to be made responsible for the damage committed
by lawless mobs, established trial by jury, and composed a body of laws on
which the glorious superstructure of English liberty was finally erected. He
was not less generous than brave, and by acts of kindness, sought to convert
the Danes from deadly enemies to £aithful subjects. Alfred may be con-
sidered as the first King of the Anglo-Saxons ; but to Athelstan, as we shall
see, belongs the credit of being the founder of the English monarchy, for
after the battle of Brunanbuih he had no competitor.
The restless spirit of the Danes not brooking restraint, they re-commenced
hostilities, but after plundering Mercia, in 910, they were again defeated, in
a desperate battle in the north, by Edward the Elder, son and successor of the
Great Alfred, when two of their Kings, Halfden and Eowils, brothers of
Hinguar, and several thousands of their soldiers were slain. At this period,
Edward, with the Mercians and West Saxons, ravaged the principal part of
Northumbria for nearly five weeks.
This decisive victory established the superiority of the Anglo-Saxon
monarch over the ruthless Dane. Athelstan, the successor of Edw6urd, com-
pelled Sithric and Nigel to submit to his victorious arms; but upon doing
homage, they were allowed to keep their possessions. In 0^6, Sithric ob-
tained the daughter of Athelstan in marriage, on condition that he would
turn Christian; but dying the first year of his marriage, his sons, Godfrid
and Anlaff, whom he had by a former wife, stirred up a rebellion among the
Northumbrian Danes. This drew upon them the indignation of Athelstan,
GENERAL HISTOBT OF TOBKBHIRE. 99
who attacked and reduced tke whole of Northumbria, except the castle of
York, which was Y&ry strong and well garrisoned. One of the Danish
Ptixxoes now fled to Scotland, and the other to Ireland, whence thej returned
in three years afterwards (in 937) with a great body of Norwegians, Danes,
Iiiah, Scotch, and Welsh soldiers. Anlaff entered the Humber with a fleet
of 615 Bail, landed his forces, and marched to York before the King had any
inteJligeace of it, and were soon joined by the confederated Scotch and
British Princes. Athelstan, who not content with his own forces, had pur-
diased the aid of several Sea-Eings, was soon approaching the north. As he
passed through Beverley, he visited the church, offered his dagger on the
altar, and vowed to redeem it, if he returned victorious, at a price worthy of
a King. In a few days afterwards the famous battle of Bromford, or Bru-
nanburh, in Northumbria, was fought, in which Athelstan gained a complet<>
victoiy, the army of the Princes being entirely destroyed.
This engagement, which is celebrated in the relics of Saxon and Scandina-
vian poetry, lasted from morning till sunset. A contemporary writer tells- us
Hiat in the English army waved a hundred banners, and round each banner
were ranged a thousand warriors. " Never," says the native poet, '* since
the arrival of the Saxons and Angles, those artists in war, was such a carnage
known in England." Constantine, the King of Scotland, saved himself by a
precipitate flight, after his son and most of his men had been slaughtered ;
and amongst the slain were 6 petty Kings of Ireland and Wales, and 12
gieneral officers. To prevent future rebellion, Athelstan proceeded to York,
and rased the castle, which was the principal bulwark of the Danish power,
to the ground. The conqneror, in his return from the battle, redeemed his
dagger £rom the chiurch of Beverley, with a grant of ample and valuable
piivil^es. This decisive victory confirmed the ascendency of Athelstan ; the
British Princes no longer disputed his authority, and his power became pre-
dominant in Britain. To him, therefore, belongs the glory of having
established what has ever since been called the kingdom of England; and
he, himself, undoubtedly, was the first monarch of England. His prede-
oessorsy till the reign of Alfred the Great, had been styled the Kings of
Wesaex. Alfred and his son Edward assumed the title of Kings of the
Anglo-Saxons; and Athelstan sometimes called himself King of the English,
but at other times he claimed the more pompous designation of King of All
Britain. But in the course of a century the latter title fell into disuse, and
the former has been retained to the present age.
Athelstan died, much r^etted by his subjects and the surrounding nations,
on the 37th of October, 941, and was buried in the Abbey of Mahnsbury,
100 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
where he had deposited the remains of Elfwin and Ethel win, who fell at
Bromford. This monarch, dying without heirs, was succeeded on the throne
of England by Edmund, eldest son of Edward, the predecessor of Athelstan,
then about 17 years of age. The turbulent spirit of the Northumbrians,
which Athelstan had kept imder some restraint, soon broke out after his
death. Anlaff, who had fled to Ireland, was invited to hazard a third time
the fortune of war; and having, by the promise of a large sum of money,
obtained a considerable force from Olaus, King of Norway, the Humber, in a
few weeks, was covered by a numerous fleet of foreign adventurers. The
operations of the campaign are involved in much obscurity, but in a short
time the whole of Northumbria submitted to his arms.
In 942 Anlafl* attacked the kingdom of Mercia, but Edmund gave him
battle near Chester, and neither side being able to claim the victory, a peace
was concluded through the mediation of Odo and Wulstan, the Archbishops
of Canterbury and York. By this treaty Edmund gave up all the country
north of the Roman highway, Watling Street, which divides England into
two parts. The kingdom of Northumbria is once more about to be divided.
The people, during the absence of Anlaff, sent for his nephew Reginald, and
crowned him King at York. Anlaff prepared for resistance ; but through the
intciTcntion of Edmund, who was backed by a powerful army, it was agreed
that Anlaff should retain the crown of Deira, whilst Reginald swayed the
sceptre of Bemicia.* It was also stipulated that the two Kings should swear
fealty to Edmund, and embrace the Christian religion ; and the ceremony of
their bjlptism was performed in the Cathedral by Archbishop Wulstan.
In 944 hostilities recommenced — Edmund again successfully opposed them,
and obliged the two kings to quit the island. Edmund died sole monarch of
England in 946, and his sons being in infancy, he was succeeded by his
brother Edred, whose reign was principally distinguished by the final subju-
gation of Northumbria. He proceeded to that country, and I'eceived from
the natives the usual oaths of fidelity; but the obedience of the Northum-
brians lasted only as long as they were overawed by his presence. He was
no sooner departed, than they expelled liis ofQcers, and set his authority at
defiance. Anlaff was again invited to return to York, he obeyed the invita-
tion, and obtained possession of the whole of Northumbria, which he retained
• Dr. Lingard snys, that Anlaff died the next year after he concluded the treaty with
Edmund, and that it was after his death that Northumbria was again divided. He states
that after the kingdoms wore di\ided, the two kings were Anlaff and Reginald, but he
does not tell us who they were, but he distinctly states that Anlaff was the second of
that name in Northumbria. Lingard's Eng., vol. i., p. 200. Fcp. 8vo.
GENERAL HISTORY OP TORKSHIRE. 101
for foor years. In 950 another revolt took place, in fwhich Anlaff was
deposed ; and Eric, who had been driven from Norway by his brother Haco,
the king of that country, and who had wandered for years a pirate on the
ocean, and landed on the northern coast, was saluted King, and called to the
throne in his stead.
Now followed a civil war between the factions of Eric and Anlaff; and
when all was in confusion, Edred, at the head of an army, marched to the
north, subdued the contending parties, severely punished the perfidy of the
rebels, obliged Eric to flee into Scotland, threatened to destroy the whole
countiy with fire and sword, and even commenced the execution of his threat
bj burning the monastery of Ripon. He, however, soon relented, pardoned
the offending people, and replaced Eric on the throne of Northumbria.
When Edred left York, the Danes pursued him, and furiously attacked his
forces on the banks of the river Aire (at Castleford), but were repulsed.
Eldred returned to Tork to chastise the people for rebellion, upon which the
inhabitants, to save themselves from his just indignation, renounced Eric,
and put him to death, and they also slew Amac, the son of Anlaff ; these
Princes having been the chief instigators of their treachery. Edred spared
the city, bat dissolved their monarchial government, and reduced the kingdom
of Northumbria to an Earldom, of which York was constituted the capital,
and Osulf, or Osluff, an Anglo-Saxon, or Englishman, became the first Earl.
This final subjugation of the great northern kingdom took place in 951. The
chief residence of the Earls or Viceroys, like the ancient Kings of Northum-
bria, was at York. In this reign the north of England, like the rest of the
kingdom, was divided into shires, ridings, and wapentakes, and a number of
officers appointed for their superintendence. Edgar, who succeeded Edred
on the throne of England, appointed Oslac to join Osulf in the government
of the north, but the authority of these two officers was subsequently united
in the person of Waltheof, the second Earl.
During the reign of Ethelred, the Danes became so turbulent, that he
attempted to destroy their power by secretly ordering them to be massacred
on St Brice's day, the 13th of November, 1012. The slaughter on tliat fatal
day was great in the southern part of England, but in the north they were
too numerously intermingled with the Saxons to be sentenced to assassination.
Among the thousands who fell was the Lady Gunhilda, sister to the King of
Denmark, who had been sent as hostage, on condition of peace, together with
her husband, Palig. This detestable Eict, which will cover the name of
Ethelred with eternal infamy, so inflamed the Danes with indignation, that
in a short time the Saxons became the sport of a revengeful enemy. To
109 GENERAL HISTOBT OF YOBKSHUBE.
revenge the wrongs of his countiTmen, Sweyne, King of Denmark, undertook
the conquest of England. In 1013 he entered the Humber with a large
fleet, and having destroyed the country on both sides of the river, he pro-
ceeded to York, and encamped on the banks of the Ouse. EtheLred, with
an army augmented by a number of Scots, gave him battle, but the EngHsh
monarch was defeated, and seizing a boat, fled to the Isle of Wight, and
thence to Normandy, leaving his crown and kingdom to the conqueror.
Sweyne died at Gainsborough in 1014, and his son Canute was proclaimed
King, but being obliged to return to Denmark, the English in his absence
recalled their exiled monarch, who ruled by force of arms over the southern
parts of the island till his death in 1016. Canute died in this country, King
of England, Denmark, and Norway, in 1035, and was succeeded in his
British dominions by Harold, his second son, sumamed Harefoot. This
monarch was succeeded by Hardicanute, a licentious tyrant, who died two
years after his accession, at the nuptials of a Danish lord, at Lambeth. The
next Danish claimant to the British crown was named Sweyne, but Edward
the Confessor, though not the hereditary descendant, was raised to the throne
by the voice of the people.*
History is almost silent concerning the first seven Earls of Northumbria —
Osulf, Waltheof, Uthred, Hircus, Eadulf, Aldred, and Eadulf 11.; but the
last thre&— Siward, Tosti, Tosto, or Tostig, brother to Harold, and Morcar,
make a conspicuous figure in the annals of the country. Siwaid, the 8th
Earl, was a man of extraordinary strength and valour. He was appointed
by Edward the Confessor to lead an army of 10,000 men into Scotland, to
aid Malcolm against the usui^r Macbeth, whom he slew, and set the former
on the throne of Scotland.!
When this brave old warrior was on his death-bed at York, in 1055, and
reduced to the last extremity by disease, he exclaimed, " Oh ! what a shame
it is for me, who have escaped death in so many dangerous battles, to die like
a beast at last Put me on my impenetrable coat of mail," added he, '' gird
on my sword, place on my helmet, give me my shield in my right hand, and
my golden battle-axe in my left ; thus as a valiant soldier I have lived, even
so will I die.'* It is recorded that his friends obeyed this injunction, which
was no sooner done than he expired. He died in 1055, and his body was
* The surname of "the Confessor" was given to this monarch from the bull of his
canonization, issned hy Pope Alexander m, about a century after his decease.
f '* Gracions England hath lent us good Siward, and ten thousand men.
An older and a better soldier, none that Christendom gives out"
Shak8pe«re*s Macbeth, Act iv. Sc. 8.
GENERAL HISTOBY OF T0RK8HIBE. lOS
buried in the church of St. Olaye, at York. Tosti, second son of Earl God-
win, minister of state, succeeded Siward in the Earldom of Northumbria, but
his role was so cruel and tyrannical, that, in 1065, as we read in the Saxon
Chronicle, the Thanes and people revolted, and furiously attacking his house,
he very narrowly escaped, with his family, and fled into Flanders. The
Northumbrians seized his treasures, and appointed Morcar to be their Earl.
Harold, brother of Tosti, being appointed by the King to vindicate the royal
anthority, and quell the insurrection, b^an his march, while Morcar, at the
head of the Northumbrians, advanced southward. The two armies met at
Northampton, but happily an arrangement was effected without bloodshed.
Harold on being convinced of his brother's misconduct, abandoned his cause,
and interceded with the King in favour of the insurgents. The Confessor
confirmed Morcar in his Earldom; and Harold afterwards married Morcar*s
sister, and obtained from the King the government of Mercia for Morcar*s
brother, Edwin.
King Edward died on the 5th of January, 1066, and was buried on the
following day in the abbey church of Westminster, which he had founded.
During his reign the most approved Danish laws were incorporated with the
costoms, maxims, and rules of the Britons, the West Saxons, and the
Mercians. This code became common throughout England, and were the
laws 80 fondly cherished by our ancestors in succeeding ages, and so often
promised to be adhered to by princes, as the surest means of securing their
popularity,
The Malmsbuiy historian, speaking of the English at this remarkable
period, says, " They wore clothes that did not reach beyond the middle of
the knee, their heads were shorn, and their beards were shaven, only the
upper lip was always let grow to its full length. Their arms were loaded
with gdden bracelets, and their skins dyed with painted marks/'
The above-mentioned Harold was proclaimed King by an assembly of the
Thanes and citizens of London, on the death of Edward, and the day of the
Confessor's funeral witnessed the coronation of the new monarch. The
ceremony of the coronation was performed by Aldred, Archbishop of York,
Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury, being then suspended. The southern
counties cheerfully acquiesced in the succession of Harold, but the Northum-
brians in their pride refused to be bound by the act of those, whose military
qualities they deemed inferior to their own. Harold, accompanied by Wul-
stan, Bishop of Worcester, hastened to the north, and soon won the affection
of the Northumbrians. The news of Edward's death, and Harold's acces-
sion, no sooner reached William, Duke of Normandy, nephew to the deceased
104 GENERAL HISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
monarch, than he assembled his council, and expressed to them his deter-
. mination to pursue by arms his pretensions to the crown of England. Tosti
(Harold's brother), the outlawed and exiled Earl of Northumberland, en-
couraged by the Duke of Normandy,* and his father-in-law, Baldwin, Earl of
Flanders, now attempted to dethrone him. With 40 ships, well manned,
supplied by the latter nobleman, he made a descent upon Yorkshire, entered
the Humber, and committed the most horrible ravages on its banks.
Morcar, Earl of Northumbria, with his brother Edwin, Eaii of Chester,
marched expeditiously against the invader, and pursued him into Lincoln-
sliire, where they defeated him, and compelled him to flee to his ships. He
then sailed to Scotland, and after vainly endeavouring to excite the King of
that country to join him in the invasion of England, his vindictive spirit
impelled him to apply for assistance to Harrald (sumamed Hardrada, or the
Stem), King of Norway, with whom he was more successful. That great
warrior immediately equipped, for the invasion of England, the most mighty
armament th«rt ever left the coast of Norway. It consisted of SOO sail, be-
sides store ships and vessels of smaller size, to the number of 600 in all.
Harrald touched at the Orkneys, where he was joined by Tosti and a large
reinforcement of adventurers. Having burnt and plundered the town of
Scarborough, and received the submission of the people of the coast of York-
shire, from the Tees to the Humber, the Norwegians entered the latter river
for the purpose of obtaining possession of York. They landed at the village
of Riccall, ten miles from York, and after ravaging the country in the most
cruel manner, they commenced their march to the latter place. A desperate
attempt to save the city was made near the village of Fulford, by the Earls
Edwin and Morcar. The Norwegians were drawn up with their right flank
to the river, and their left to a morass. The impetuosity of the English
burst through the line; but they, in their turn, were overwhelmed by a
fresh 'body of forces from the ships; and more of the fugitives perished in
the water than had fallen by the sword. Edwin and Morcar escaped to
York, whither Tosti and his forces followed, and the city was taken by
storm. Harold, the English King, who had been preparing to meet the
threatened attack of William the Norman, having heard of the unexpected
invasion of Hardrada, lost not a moment in marching against the aggressor,
and within four days after the late battle, he, at the head of a powerful army,
was in the neighbourhood of York.
On the 23rd of September, 1066, he arrived with his forces at Tadcaster,
• Daniel, Hist, de France, vol. iii. p. 00.
GESERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 105
•
and the following day he marched towards York. At the Eing^s approach
the invaders withdrew from York, taking with them 500 of the principal
inhabitants as hostages, and leaving 150 of their men to prevent the English
from taking peaceable possession of the city ; they moved about eight miles
from York, to Stamford Bridge (long afterwards known as *< the Bridge of
Battle "), where they secured a very strong position with the main body of
thdr anny, on ground gently rising from the river Derwent — the river
flowing in front, and a narrow wooden bridge forming the means of commu-
nication between the opposite sides. The river here runs nearly south, and
is about eight miles distant from its jimction with the Ouse. The position
of the invaders had several advantages ; it was easily defended, commanded
a view of the country for some distance around, and it afforded a commimi-
cation with the fleet, then lying in the Ouse.
** The order of the battle displayed considerable knowledge of the mihtary
art; with both wings bent backward until they met, the army formed a close
rather irregular circle, everywhere of equal depth, with shield touching shield,
8o as to form a rampart of bucklers. The royal standard, called very appro-
priately, ' The Land Ravager,* was planted in the centre, and by it the King
and }ns chosen companions had generally their station. This arrangement
was adopted as the best means of defence against the superior strength of
the English in cavalry. The first, or outer line, presented to the enemy a
complete circle of spears, which were held obliquely, at a considerable eleva-
tion, their ends restmg on the ground ; this position required the soldiers to
bend one knee ; the second line stood erect, holding their lances in readiness
to pierce the breasts of the horses, should they attempt to break through.
The archers were placed so as to assist them in repelling these attacks.
The Norwegian King, mounted on a black charger, with a white star in its
forehead, rode round the circle, encouraging his men, and was rendered con-
spicuous by his dazzling helmet, and the sky blue mantle he wore above his
coat of mail.*** The English King having pursued tbe invaders, resolv^
to attack them, notwithstanding all the advantages of their position.
On the d5th of September, at day-break, he commenced hostilities, and the
battle raged with increasing foxy until three o*clock in the afternoon. The
armies were nearly equal in numbers, each consisting of about 60,000 men,
most of them chosen warriors, full of the most savage bravery, and distin-
gmahed for their strength and courage. Harold, in his first attempt to force
the passage of the river, appears to have routed a detatchment on the western
« BatUe ileldB of Yorkshire.
106 GENERAL HISTOBT OF Y0RK8HIBE.
side, which was placed there to guard the bridge. Whilst the English were
pursuing the fugitives, and attempting to cross the river, historians tell us,
that a single Norwegian, of gigantic strength and power, placed himself upon
the bridge, and there by his extraordinary valour opposed the whole English
army for three hours, killing with his own hand forty of Harold's soldiers.
After having scornfully refused an invitation to surrender, with an assurance
of the amplest clemency from the EngUsh, we are told that a Saxon boatman
rowed himself imder the bridge, and thrusting his spear up through the
woodwork, pierced the Norwegian terribly inwards, under his coat of mail."!*
The English then rushed on with resistless impetuosity, and the conflict that
ensued was dreadful. No quarter on either side was allowed by this im-
mense multitude in arms, so that it is with good reason said that this action
is one of the most bloody that is recorded in the annals of England ; and it
is stated that after the lapse of fifty years the spot was still whitened with
the bones of the slain. For a long time the issue of the contest appeared
doubtful. The attack of the English was furious, and it was met with equal
spirit by the Norwegians. At length the generalship of Harold proved
superior in the field to the Norwegian chief. ** He ordered his horsemen to
retreat, in order to draw the enemy from their position and break their
ranks ; the stratagem had the desired effect ; the Norwegians quitted their
position; the English horsemen returned to the charge, and obtained a
speedy victory over their now disordered and half armed enemies ; for they
had thrown aside their shields and breastplates to join in the pursuit The
King of Norway was pierced in the neck with an arrow, and instantly
expired. Tosti was also slain, and the greater part of the army, with all
the chiefs, perished, fighting like madmen. "f The EngHsh pursued the
remains of the routed army in their disordered flight towards their ships,
" and from behind hotly smote them." Many were pushed into the rivers
and drowned ; and others reached their vessels, somo of which were boarded
and burned, and the whole fleet was seized by the victors. Olaf, son of
Hardrada, and Paul, Earl of Orkney, who had been left in command of the
fleet, were taken prisoners ; and here the magnanimity of the EngHah King
• It must confessed, that the exploits of this huge and valiant warrior has more the
appearance of romance than of soher history, though it is recorded by aU who have
written an account of this battle. Drake tells us, that the inhabitants of Stamford
Bridge " have a custom, at an annaal feast, to make pies in the form of a swiJl, or erwine
tub, which tradition says was made use of by the man, who struck the Norwegian on the
bridge instead of a boat;" and Profesnor Phillips, speaking of this champion of the bridge,
says, " an annual boat-like cake is the village monument to his ibrtunate enemy."
i Battle Fields of Yorkshire.
GENEBAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 107
shines conspicuoualy, for after receiying back the citizens of York, who had
been detained as hostages on board the Norwegian ships, he permitted all
who had survived the slaughter, to depart to their own country, in a part of
their shattered fleet, having first obliged them to swear never to disturb the
BritLsh dominions agauL But 20 ships were sufficient to carry back the
misecable remains of an army, which it took more than 500 to convey hither.
Camden tells us, that the spoil taken by the victors was immense ; and that
the gold alone, which the Norwegians left behind them, was as much as
twelve men could cany on their shoulders. It is stated that Harold disgusted
his army, by refusing to distribute among them any portion of this spoil.
But Harold's triumph was of short duration ; for after his return to York,
and whilst he was seated at a royal- banquet, surrounded by his nobles, cele-
brating his great victory, a messenger entered the hall, and announced
the arrival and descent of the Duke of Normandy and an immense army, at
Pevensey, in Sussex, He immediately commenced his march southward,
and encountered the enemy at Hastings, where, in bloody strife, he lost
bis crown and life, in that, his last and most desperate battle.
Kotmatt iPettnH.
S<»ue historians assert that Edward, sumamed the Confessor, named, with
his dying breath, William, Duke of Normandy, bis nephew, as his successor.
At the time of that King s death, a report had been circulated, that on
his death bed he had appointed Harold to succeed him; and the latter
was called to the throne by the voice of the people. However this point
may be settled, we have the fact that William of Normandy claimed the
£nglish crown, fought for, and obtained it. He employed eight months
in the most active preparations for the invasion, and by the beginning of
August he found himself at the head of 50,000 cavaLy, besides a smalls
body of in£uitiy. To furnish transports for this numerous army, every vessel
in Normandy had been put in requisition. But the supply was still inade-
quate, and many individuals sought the favour of their Prince, byl)uilding
ships at their own expense, in the different harbours and creeks. The
Normans landed without opposition, at Pevensey, on the 29th of September,
1066 ; marched immediately to Hastings, and threw up fortifications at both
traces, to protect their ships, and secure a retreat in case of disaster. In the
beginning of October Harold was feasting and rejoicing at York ; and on the
18th of the same month he had reached the camp of the Normans. The
108 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORESHIRE.
Spot which he selected for this important and sanguinary contest was called
Senlac, now Battle, eight miles north-west of Hastings, an eminence opening
to the south, and coyered on the hack hj an extensive wood. He posted his
troops on the decliyity, in one compact and immense mass. In the centre
waved the royal standard ; hy its side stood Harold, and his two hrothers
Gurth and Leofnrin ; and around them the whole army, every man on foot.
On the opposite hiU William marshalled his host. In the front he placed
the archers and howmen ; the second line was composed of heavy inf&ntry
in coats of mail ; and hehind these, arranged in five divisions, the pride of
the Norman force, the knights and men-at-arms. Both men and horses were
completely cased in armour, which gave to their charge an irresistihle weight,
and rendered them almost invulnerable to ordinary weapons. William, we
are told by an old writer, *' out of a pious care for the interests of Christen-
dom, and to prevent the effusion of Christian blood, sent out a monk, as
mediator between both, who proposed these terms to Harold,— either to
resign the government, or to own it a tenure in fee from the Norman, or to
decide the matter in single combat with William ; but he," continues our
authority, " like one who had lost the government over himself, r^ected all
propositions, and foolishly flattering himself with success, because it was his
birthday, promised to give them battle.** Camden observes that the night
before the battle was spent by the English in revels, feasting, and shouting ;
but by the Normans in prayers for the safety of their army, and for
victory.
Next morning at break of day, the Normans, after a regular shout, sounded
to battle, and both armies drew up. When they were ready to engage, the
Normans raised the national war cry of " God is our help,** which was as
loudly answered by the adverse cry of " Christ*s rood, the holy rood.** The
Normans charged first with a voUey of arrows fix)m all parts, and that being
a sort of attack to which the English were strangers, proved exceedingly
terrible. William then ordered the cavaliy to charge, but the English, who
resolved to die rather than attempt a retreat, kept their ranks, and repulsed
them with great loss. The English in every point opposed a solid and
impenetrable mass, and neither the buckler nor corslet of the Normans could
withstand the stroke of the batde axe, wielded by a powerful arm and with
imerring aim. After a pause the left wing of the Norman army betook them-
selves to flight, closely pursued by their opponents, and a report having now
spread that William himself had fallen, ihe whole army began to waver.
The Duke, with his helmet in his hand, rode along the line exclaiming, ** I
am still alive, and with the help of God I still shall conquer.** The presence
OSNERAL HISTORY OF tORffSHIRE. 109
and confidence of their commander reviyed the hopes of the Normans.
WOliain led his troops again to the attack; but the English column resisted
ererj assai]lt> aud maintained their ground with so much brayery, that the
Noimans were most miserably harassed, and were upon the point of re-
treating, had not their leader used the most extraordinary means to inspire
them with courage and confidence. Harold, on his part, used eyery possible
exertion, and was distinguished as the most actiye and braye amongst the
soldiers in the host His brothers had already perished, but as long as he
snryired, no man entertained the apprehension of defeat, or admitted the idea
of flight The battle continued for seyeral hours with great fury, the English
resisting the almost oyerwelming charges of the Norman cayaliy. At length,
William, disappointed and perplexed, had recourse to stratagem. He or-
dered him men to retreat and to giye ground; but still to keep their ranks.
The EngUsh taking this for flight, thought the day was certainly their own,
wlmeupon they broke their ranks, and, not doubting their yictory, pursued
the enemy in great disorder. But the Normans rallying their troops on a
sodden, renewed the battle, and enclosing the English in that disorder, killed
great numbers, while they stood doubtful whether they should run or fight
At last, Harold was shot through the head with an arrow, and fell from his
steed in agony, and was borne to the foot of the standard, where he breathed
his last The knowledge of his flail relaxed the efibrts of the English.
Twenty Normans undertook to seize the royal banner, and effected their
purpose, but with the loss of half their number. One of them, who maimed
inth his sword the dead body of the King, was afterwards disgraced by
William ibr his brutality.
It was now dusk in the eyening, the English became dispirited, and having
loet their King, fled to saye their liyes, after haying fought without inter-
mission from seyen o*clock in the morning. During the engagement William
exhibited many proofs of the most determined courage ; he had three horses
killed under him, and he had been compelled to grapple on foot with his
adyersaries. Harold's mother b^^ed as a boon the dead body of her son,
and offered as a ransom its weight in gold, but William's resentment haying
rendered him callous to pity, he refused, and ordered the corpse of the fallen
monarch to be buried on the beach ; adding, with a sneer, "he guarded the
coast while he was aliye ; let him continue to guard it after death."
There is an old English tradition that Harold did not fall in this battle,
hat had retired to a hermitage, where he spent the remainder of his days ;
hut the historical account is, that by stealth, or by purchase, his remains
• were lemoyed firom the beach, and interred at Waltham Abbey, which he.
110 GENERAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
himself, had founded before he ascended the throne. It is said that a plain
stone was laid on his tomb in ihe Abbey, with the expressive epitaph,
"Harold Infelix." It is said that on the evening of the battle William
caused his pavilion to be pitched among the heaps of slaiig and there, with
his barons, he supped and feasted among the dead.
Thus ended the memorable and fatal battle, which is c<Hmnonlj called the
Battle of Hastings; and this day (14th October, 1006) ended the Anglo-Saxon
monarchy, which had continued more than 600 years ; and gave our island
to the dominion of the Norman race. On the £eld of victory the conqueror
erected and endowed a splendid monastery, the remains of which still re-
tain the name o( Battle Abbey, It is said that the high altar stood on the
very spot where the standard of Harold had been planted. The exterior waJls
embraced the whole of the hill which had been the centre of the battle, and
aU the surrounding country became the property of the Abbey. The com-
munity of this monastery were bound by its rule to offer prayer perpetually
for the eternal rest of the souls who had fallen in the conflict; and the Abbey
itself was at once the monument of the Norman Duke s triumph, and the
token of his piety. Palgrave very happily concludes his description of this
noble and richly-endowed Abbey thus: "But all this pomp and solemnity has
passed away like a dream. The 'perpetual prayer* has ceased for ever, — the
roll of Battle is rent, — the shields of the Norman lieges are troddeii in the
dust, — ^the Abbey is levelled to the ground, — ^and a dark and reedy pool jBUs
the spot where the foundations of the quire have been uncovered, merdly for
the gaze of the idle visitor, or the instruction of the moping antiquaiy.*'
The foundation of this Abbey was soon followed by that of the town, which
was afterwards called Battle or Battel.
"Whether we consider the Norman Conquest in its success, or in its con-
sequences," writes Mr. Oliver, " it is still an event equally stupendous and
unprecedented. It was effected almost without a struggle. Never were such
important residts accomphshed with so little sacrifice on the part of the
conquerors. The rash attempt made by a provincial Duke to reduce this
powerful island, would in any other age have been deemed preposterous, and
its success contrary to aU the chances of political calculation. William,
himself, could scarcely anticipate, or even hope for that perfect good fortune
with which it was accompanied. The native inhabitants appear to have been
completely paralysed by the imexpected result of the battle of Hastings ; which
feehng, the superior genius of William well knew how to convert to his own
advantage, that even the sacrifice of their liberties, their property, and innu-
merable lives was insufficient to rouse them to any effective resistance against
OENERAI. HISTORY OF Y0BK8HIRE. Ill
the tjraimy wbich trampled them miderfoot, and reduced their ancient
nobilitj to a state of servile thraldom. ""!<
William, who had hitherto heen called "the Bastard," and was now sur-
named " the Conqueror," was crowned in Westminster Abhej, on the 25th of
December next following the battle of Hastings, bj Aldred, Archbishop of
York; Stigand, of Canterbury, being suspended from the Archiepiscopal office.
Having thus established himself on the throne of England, William on his
part, to confirm his authority, adopted the most bold and active measures.
He expelled the English from their estates, and reserving to himself about
1,400 manors, he distributed the fair territory of Britain amongst his rapacious
foUowers.! This numerous train of military adventurers, who had accom-
panied him from Normandy under the promise of reward, held their new
possessions of the King on the tenure of homage, and fealty, and military
service; by which they were boimd to attend him in the field with a certain
number of retainers, armed, mounted, and provided for a specified number
of days in every year. The Boll of Battle Abbey given by Hollinshed, con-
tains the names of 639 Normans, who became cLiimants upon the soil of
England, whilst the ancient nobility were stripped of their titles and property,
and the humble classes of the inhabitants were reduced to the condition of
miserable slaves.^
Thus all the principal manors in the kingdom, except those which the
King had reserved to himself, were held of him by tenants in capite, or in
other words, by his Barons; and these, consisting of about 700 persons, were
the legitimate Parliament, or Council of the realm. The lands thus acquired
and maintained, the Bacons again subdivided into Knight's fees, and let them
• Histoiy of Beverley, p. 69. f West's Enquiry, p. 24.
I The grants of the landed property in England, made by the Conqueror to some of
his nobles, were excessive. To GeofiQrey, Bishop of Constance, he gave 250 manors ; to
William Warrenne, 298 ; to Richard de Clare, 171; to Bannlph de Baynard, 85 ; and to
Roger de Bresli, 149 manors. His uterine brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayenx, and Earl of
Kent» possessed in that ootmty, and in several othen, 439 manorB. Robert, Earl of
McMBtagnft, on whom he bestowed the Earldom of Cornwall, had in that and other coun-
ties, 973 manors ; and Alan Fergant, Earl of Bretagne, had 442 manors. The manor of
Richmond, in Yorkshire, had 156 lordships ; besides which, the Earl possessed, by the
gifk of the King, 276 manors in other parts of the kingdom. The King himself pos-
sessed so fewer than 1432 manors in different parts of the kingdom. A Manor was
synonimous is the language of the Normans with Villa in Latin. It denoted an ex-
tensive parcel of land, with a house on it for the accomodation of the lord, and cottages
for his villeins and slaves. He generally kept a part in his own "hands, and bestowed
the remainder on two or more tenants, who held of him by military service, or rent, or
olher prostadoos.
lis OSKEBAL HISTOBY OF TORRSHIBS*
to tenants on a similar tenure. The Conqueror laid aside the greater part
of the English laws, and introduced the Norman customsi and even ordered
all causes to be pleaded in French ; and we are told bj Ingulphus, who lived
at that time, that he " obliged all the inhabitants of England to do homage,
and swear fealty to him and his successors.**
He made a seal also, on the side of which was engrayen, Hoe Normanto*
rum Chdidmvm nosce patronum, by this the Normans own great William
Dyke; and on the other side Hoc AngUs siffno Begem faUaris eundum, bjthis
too, England owns the same their King. He erected numerous fortresses to
overawe the insulted and oppressed inhabitants, and conscious of the detesta-
tion in which he was deservedly held, he entertained a perpetual jealousy of
the English, and in the resistless apprehensions of his guilty mind, he com-
pelled them to rake out their fires, and extinguish their lights at eight o'clock
every night, and they were reminded of this duty by the toU of the Curfew.
The northern counties were slow to submit to the Norman yoke, which,
however, at last fell on them with terrible weight A violent struggle was
made for some years to expel the invaders, and York was the rallying point
for the patriot army. '*Bj the splendour of God," (his usual oath) said
William, when the men of York rose and massacred his Norman garrison, ''I
will utterly root out these Northumbrian people, nor will I lay lance in rest
for other cause, until I have done the deed." The gage was redeemed. St
Cuthbert, whose awe had caused meaner invaders to stand aloof, himself
quailed before the withering glance of the Conqueror. The power of dark-
ness for a time prevailed. William, as we shall see, marched from the Ouse
to the Tyne, leaving behind him villages destroyed and without inhabitants,
and scattering the mangled members of the people upon every highway.
Slaughter gave place to famine, and &mine to pestilence, under the stem
severity of the Norman tyrant
Having silenced the disaffected, and constrained the country to a state of
suUen quietude, he caused a survey to be taken of all the lands in England,
the four northern counties excepted, on the model of the Book of Winchester,
compiled by order of Alfred the Great This survey was registered in a
national record called Dom Boc, Doomsday or Domesday Book, or judgment,
alluding by metaphor to those books out of which the world shall be judged
at the last day. It was to serve as a register of the possessions of every
English freeman, to ascertain what quality of military service was owed by
the king's chief tenants ; to affix the homage due to him, and to record by
what tenure the various esstates in Britain were held. This survey was
imdertaken by the advice and consent of a great council of the kingdom,
OBNERAJL BISTORt 6V YORKSHIRE. 113
which met immediatdj after the false rumour of the Danes' intended attack
upon England, m the year 1085, as it is stated in the Saxon Chronicle, and
it did not occupy long in the execution, suice all the historians i/vho speak of
it -vary but firom the year 1083 until 1087. There is a memorandum ftt the
end of the second yolume, stating that it was finished in 1080. The manner
of performing the survey was expeditious : certain commissioners, called the
King's Justices, were appointed to travel throughout England, and to register
Hpcm the oath of the Sheriff, the Lords of each manor, the priests of every
chmch, the stewards of ererj hundred, the bailiffs and six villeins or hus-
bandmen of every village, the names of the various places, the holders of
them in the time of King Edward the Confessor, 40 years previous ; the
names of the possessors, the quantity of land, the nature of the tenures, and
the seTeral kinds of property contained in them. All the estates were to be
then triply rated; namely, as they stood in the reign of the Confessor; as
they were first bestowed by King William I. ; and as they were at the time
of the survey. The manuscript itself consists of two volumes, a greater and
a less. The first of these is a large folio, containing the description of 31
counties, upon 8852 double pages of vellum, numbered on one side only, and
written in a small but plain character, each page having a double column.
Some of the capital letters cmd principal passages are touched with red ink,
and oUieis have red lines run through them, as if they were intended to he
obliterated. The smaller volume is of a 4to size, and is written upon 450
double pages of velltmi, but in a single column, and in a very large and fair
chancter : it contains three counties, and a part of two others.^^ Through
all ages this " Book of Judicial verdict " will be held in estimation, not only
§or its antiquity, but also for its intrinsic value. To the present day it serves
to show what manor is, and what is not ancient demesne.
The Normans were remarkable for their courage and valour: though
seated in the midst of warlike nations, they never made submission without
an appeal to arms. Their valiant behaviour in the wars of the Holy Land
exeeediBgly increased their honour; and Roger Hoveden, extolling their
* The Domesday Book, the most andent of its kind of which any European nation
can boast, was, until 1695, kept under three locks, the keys of which were in the custody
of the treasurer and two churchwardens of the Exchequer, but it is now deposited in the
Chapter House at Westminster, where the fee for consulting it is 08. 8d., and for tran-
aeripta from it, 4d. per line. Though it is now nearly 800 years old, it is in as fine a
state of preaenration as if it were the work of yesterday. In the 40th of George m.
(IBOl), his Majesty, by the recommendation of Parliament, directed that it should be
printed for the use of the members of the Houses of Lords and Commons, and the
poUic tibrariea of the kingdom, which orders were duly obeyed.
Q
114 GENERAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIBE.
deeds of arms, tells us, ." that bold France, after she had experienced the Nor-
man valour, drew back ; fierce England submitted ; rich Apulia was restoi*ed
to her flourishing condition ; famous Jerusalem, and renowned Antioch, were
both subdued."
The Normans preserved most of the Anglo-Saxon laws and customs, but
preferred their own trial by batde, as more worthy of warriors and freemen, to
the fiery ordeals of the English. They separated the spiritual from the
secular courts ; and the old distinction of classes, viz., Ealdermen, Thanes^
Ceorls, and TheawaSj were* preserved under the names of Count or Earl^
BaroTij Knighty Esquire, Freetendnt, ViUein or Villain, and Neif,
In the Domesday Survey we find Yorkshire, as at present, divided into
three Hidings, called the east, west, and north, and subdivided into Wapen-
takes, a division peculiar to Yorkshire. And here we shall make a digression,
for the purpose of explaining some of the ancient titles, tenures, and terms,
used in the admeasurement of land, beginning with the names of the divisions
and subdivisions of this county.
Biding is a term derived from the Saxon Trithing, which implies a third
part ; a mode of division in England, as has just been observed, now only
peculiar to Yorkshire, but common in Lincolnshire and some other counties
in the Anglo-Saxon era. The Trithing man, or Lathgrieve (the chief magis-
trate of a Riding), presided over three or four or more Hundreds, formed into
what was called a Trithing, or Lath, or a Rape ; hence the Laths of Kent,
the Rapes of Sussex, the Parts of Lincoln, and the Trithings or Bidings
of Yorkshire.
Wapentake, or Wapontake, is equivalent to Hundred, and this division is
likewise of Saxon origin, and was probably made in imitation of the Centena
of Germany. The true origin of the application of the word Hundred to the
division of a county is uncertain. Some authors have considered the Hun-
dred as relating to the number of the heads of families, or the number of
dwellings situated in the division ; others to the number of hides of land
therein contained. Other writers are of opinion that the Hundred was
formed by the union of ten tithings, and was presided over by a Hundredary,
who was commonly a Tfiane, or nobleman, residing within the Hundred.
The word Wapentake is evidently of warlike origin. In the northern counties
the frequent occasion for militaiy array, predominating over the peaceful pur-
poses of civil jurisdiction, before the union of England and Scotland, the
subdivision of these counties received warlike titles, as Wards and Wapen-
takes. The court of the chief officer, or Hundredary, commonly met once a
month, and all the members came to it in their arms, from which it obtained
GENEBAL HISTOBT OF TORKSHIBE. 115
the name of Wapentac, or Wapentake, which literally signifies '* To Arms,"
from Wapen, weapons, and tac, touch. When any one came to take upon
him the government of a Wapentake, upon a day appointed, all that owed
suit and service to that Hundred came to meet their new governor at the
usual place of meeting. " He, upon his arrival, alighting from his horse, set
up the lance on end (a custom used amongst the Romans by the Prsetor, at
the meetings of the Centumviri), and according to custom, took fealty of them ;
the ceremony of which was, that all who were present touched the governor's
lance with their lances, in token of confirmation, whereupon the whole meeting
was called a Wapentake, inasmuch as by a mutual touch of each other's arms,
they had entered into a confederacy or agreement to stand by one another."*
Tithmgs were so caUed because ten freemen householders, with their fami-
lies, composed one; and a number of these tithings (probably ten, or perhap^
one hundred) originally composed a superior division, called a hundred,
wapentake, ward, &c., in each of which a court was held yearly for the trial
of causes. An indefinite number of these divisions form a County or Shire,
the civil jurisdiction of which is confined to the Shire-reve, or Sheriff, who is
appointed annually. Anciently the Shire-genot, or Folk-mote, as the highest
court in the county was then called, was held twice a year, and presided over
by the Bishop or his deputy, and the Alderman or his vicegerent, the
Sheri£^
Judge Blackstone says that King Alfred the Great divided England into
counties, hundreds, and tithings, to prevent the rapine and disorders which
formerly prevailed in the realm ; the inhabitants of each district being then
made responsible for the lawless acts of each other. But shires and counties
are mentioned before the accession of that monarch. Soon after the intro-
duction of Christianity in the seventh century, the kingdom was divided into
Parishes and Bishoprics.
The principal Htles of honour amongst the Saxons were Ethding, Prince of
the blood ; Chancellor, assistant to the King in giving judgments ; Alderman^
OT Ealderman, Governor or Viceroy. This word is derived from aM or old,
like senator in Latin. Provinces, cities, and sometimes wapentakes, had
their aldermen to govern them, determine law suits, &c. This office gave
place to the title of Earl, which is Danish, and was introduced by Canute.
Sherds, or Shir-rieve, the Alderman's deputy, and chosen by him, sat as
judge in some courts, and saw sentence executed. Heartoghan signified
Generals of armies or Dukes. Hengist, in the Saxon Chronicle, is Hear-
* Bswdwen's Domesday Gloss., p. 82.
116 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
togh. Reeve, among the English Savons, was a steward. Witan or Witss
(i.e. wise-men) were the magistrates or lawyers. Thanes (i.e. servants) were
officers of the crown, whom the King recompensed with lands, to be held of
him, with some obligation of service or homage. There were other lords of
lands and vassals, who enjoyed the title of Thanes, but were distingoished
from the King's Thanes. The Aldermen and Dukes were all King*8 Thanes.
These were the great Thanes, and were succeeded by tha Barons, which title
was brought in by the Normans. Mass Thanes were those who held lands
in fee of the church. Middle Thanes were such as held very small estates
of the King, or parcels of land of the King*s greater Thanes. They were
called by the Normans, vavassors or yavassoiies. Ceorl (whenoe our word
churl) was a countryman or artisan, who was a freeman. Ceorls, who had
Acquired possession of five hides of land with a large house court, and bell to
caU together their servants, were raised to the rank of Thanes of the lowest
class. The Villeins — " Ascripti vill® seu glebse " — ^were labourers bound to
the soil, and transferred with it from one owner to another ; in this and
other respects they were little better than slaves. According to the enume*
ration in the Domesday Book, these Ceorls^ under the names of villeiiiSy
cottars, and bordars, amounted in England to 183,094 ; whilst the freemen
were only 80,005 ; and the slaves, 26,552. The burghers, many of whom
were ceorls of the same description, were numbered at 17,106.
A Hide, or a Carucate of laud, is generally estimated at 120 acres, and
was considered to employ one plough for a year — hence it is sometimes called
a Plough-land. It is, by some, derived from the Saxon hyden-tectum^ the
roof of a house ; this quantity of land being considered as a proper annexa*
tion to a farm house. Under the feudal system most lands were held under
a military tenure. AU the lands in the kingdom, soon after the Conquest,
were said to be "held of the King;" and the great vassals of the crown,
both lay and clerical, were forced to have a certain number of horsemen
completely armed, and to maintain them in the field for the space of forty
days. England was so distributed by these means, that William the Con*
queror had always at his command an army of 60,000 Knights. By t^e
term Knights must be understood those who held Knight's fees, not persons
who had obtained the order of knighthood. A Knight's fee consisted of two
hides of land, or two hides and a half; and a mesne tenant, who had more
than a single Knight s fee, was called a bavasor, a term applied to any vassal
who held a military fief of a tenant in chief to the crown. He who held of
a bavasor, was called a balvasitii, and each of these might enfeeoff another to
hold of him by Elnight's service. A Barotiy was Knight's service embaroned,
GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSQIRE. 117
or enlaiiged. Thus eyeiy nobleman was by tenure a soldier ; his military
duly was not confined within the kingdom, but extended abroad at the com-
maud of the King ; and not singly, but with such a number of Knights as
bis barony, by its several fees, maintained. AU the great landowners were
soldiers, paid and maintained by the lands they possessed, as they likewise
paid and maintained those freeholders of an inferior rank, who held Knight*s
fees under them. The nulitaiy tenure, or that by Knight service, consisted
of what were deemed the most ftee and honourable services, but in their
nature they were unavoidably uncertain, as to the time of peiformance ; the
second species of tenure, or free socage, consisted also of free and honourable
services, but were reduced to an absolute certainty. This tenure subsists to
this day, and in it, since the statute of Charles 11., almost every other species
of tenure has been merged.
The chief tenants of lords generally divided their property into two portions,
one of which, the principal farm or manor, on which the rest depended, and
to which they owed suit and service, was called the Dememe,
A Virgate or Yard of land differed in extent at various times, and in various
parts of the kingdom, from being measured with a rood (virga) of the length
of a yaid. An Oxgcmg or BouvaU was as much land as an ox could till, or
about H^ acres. A Perch was 5^ yards ; an Acre, 100 square perches ; a
Canteate^ Carve^ or Plotighrland, was generally 8 oxgangs. Bereicick$ are
manors within manors. Heriot is a fine paid to the lord at the death of a
land holder or change of tenant.
The other terms, most common in connection with the tenure of land,
were Sac, Soc, Thol, Theam, Infangtheof, and View of Frank Pledge. AU
these terms are in ancient law, and originated from the old Saxon. Sac and
Soc means the jurisdiction of holding pleas, and imposing fines, and the right
which a lord possessed of exercising justice on his vassals, and compelling
them to be suitors at his court. Sockmen were those who held land on
lease, and their land was called sockland. They were comparatively free
tenants, and held their land generally by the service of ploughing their lord's
own demesne land, a certain number of days in the year. According to
some, Soc in Saxon means the handle of a plough ; but others teU us that it
naeans liberfy or privilege. Socage then, or free socage, denotes a tenure by
any certain and determinate service.
Britton, describing lands in socage tenure, imder the name of fraunke
forme, says that they are lands and tenements, whereof the nature of the fee
is charged by feofi&nent out of chivalry for certain yearly services, and in
respect whereof neither homage, ward, marriage, or relief can be demanded.
118 OENERAL HISTORY OF YOBKSHIBE.
Those who preserved their lands from the innovations of the Norman con-
queror were said to hold them mfree and common socage.
Thol was the liherty to take, as well as to he free from, toll ; and Theam^
or Theim, was the prerogative of having, restraining, and judging hondmen,
and villeins with their children, goods and chattels, in the court of the person
possessing the privilege of Theam. Infangtheof is a criminal jurisdiction,
hj which thieves, found in the territories of the possessor of this privilege,
might he punished without appeal. By virtue of these powers offenders were
tried for thefts and other misdemeanors, and sentenced in the lord*s court,
and even executed on the gallows helonging to the manor.
View of Frank Pledge meant that twice in the year, upon such days as
the possessor of the privilege shall think fit, he shall have a view of all the
frank pledges of his tenants.
Waifs were goods which had heen stolen, and thrown away hy the thief in
his flight, for fear of heing apprehended. These were given hy law to the
Edng, as a punishment upon the owner for not himself pursuing the felon,
and taking away his goods from him.
From the Domesday Book we learn that at the Conquest the county of
York was divided among some of the most powerful and leading men of the
Conqueror^s government. Their names are entered in the following order :—
'< I. Land of the King in Yorkshire. U. The Archhishop of York,* and
of the canons, and of his men. HE. The Bishop of Durham f and his men.
IV. The Ahbot of York. V. Earl Hugh," Robert de Eue, Earl of Eue, in
Normandy. ' " VI. Robert, Earl of Morton," half brother to the Conqueror,
by whom he was created Earl of Cornwall, 1068. " VII. Earl Alan," son of
Flathald, obtained the castle of Oswaldestre fifom the Conqueror. '' Vlll.
Robert de Todeni," Lord of Belvoir, county Lincoln, oh. 1088 "IX. Ber-
enger de Todeni. X. Hbert de Laci,'* Lord of Pontefract "XI. Roger de
Busli" held the manor of Hallam (Sheffield) under the countess Judith, anno
1080, ob. 1009. " Xn. Robert Malet," great chamberlam of England, but
subsequently disinherited and banished. "XTTT. William de Warren," Earl
Warren, in Normandy, created Earl of Surrey by William IE., died 1089.
" Xmi. William de Percy," sumamed Algernon, obtained divers lands from
William L, ob. circa 1096. " XV. Drago de Holdemesse," also called Drue
Debeverer, came into England with the Conqueror, and retired into Flanders
some years afterwards. "XVI. Ralph de Mortimer," came into England
* Thomas, canon of Baion, in Normandy, succeeded in 1070.
f Walcher consecrated circa 1072.
GENERAL HISTOBT OF YOBKSHIBE. 119
with the Conqueror, and obtained the castle of Wigmore. "XVU. "Ralph
Paganel," held divers lordships at the general survey, living 1089. " X Vni.
Walter de Aincourt. XIX. Gilbert de Gant,'' son of Baldwin, Earl of Flan-
ders, obtained divers lordships from the Conqueror. " XX. Gilbert Tison.
XXI. Hugh, son of Baldric. XXII. Emeis de Burum," held thirtj-two
lordships in the county ; he was the ancestor of the present family of Byron.
" XXm. Osbert de Arcis. XXTTTT. Odo BaHstaiius. XXV. Richard, son
of Erfest XXVI. Goisfrid AlseHn. XXVH. Alberic de Coci. XXVHI.
Gospatric. XXIX. The King*s Thanes.*'
An old writer informs us, that the Conqueror rewarded his followers with
these estates in this county: — ^To Hugh de Abrincis, 7 lordships; Alan
Rnfus, 166 ; Robert Earl of Morton and Cornwall, 196 ; WiUiam Mallet, 32 ;
Robert Todenai, 2 ; Ralph de Mortimer, 18 ; William de Percy, 80 ; Walter
Deincourt, 4 ; Goisfrid Alsehn, or Hanselin, 8 ; Ralph Paganel, 15 ; Roger
de Buisti, 49 ; Robert de Brus, in the West Riding, 48, and in the North
Riding, 51 ; Drago de Beverer, aU Holdemess, being 60 lordships; and to
!Evni^u8 Burun, 32 lordships.
Aiter the Conquest much of the land passed into the possession of the
church, and the reUgious fraternities, but at the Reformation most of it re-
verted to the Crown, and was subsequently granted for services to persons in
royal favour, or sold for the use of the King.
Though it is a generally received opinion that England was divided into
Counties and Shires, or Shrievalties, towards the 9th century, yet it does not
sfypear that this change took place in the ancient kingdom of Northumbria
earlier than the middle of the 11th century. At the time of the Norman
survey it contained six Shires, under the designation of Eureunckmre,
Riehmundeseire, LoncMtreteire, Caplande (afterwards called the Bishopric of
Durham), Westmerilonde, and Cvmbrelonde,
In 1068, Earl Morcar, who was still Grovemor of York, with his brother,
the Earl of Chester, and their nephew, Blethevin, King of Wales, finding
that Duke William*s policy was to root out the ancient nobihty, and to de-
grade the native inhabitants to the condition of slaves, resolved to oppose him.
On hearing of their designs, he created one of his cruel satellites, named
Copai, Earl of Northumbria, and despatched him down to Durham with a
guard of 1,200 men. But the Northumbrians, headed by Earl Cospatrick,
and Edgar, the Etheling (the latter being the lawful heir to the crown of
England), marched to Durham by night, and attacked and slew Copsi and
all his men. The insurgents then proceeded to York, where they were re-
ceived with joy and gladness by Earls Morcar and Edwin, as well as by the
120 * OENEBAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIBE.
citizens. William once more drew his conquering sword, and advanced
rapidly towards York, at the head of a powerful army. The Northumbrian
chiefs, finding themselves unable to withstand him, sent Edgar back to
Scotland, and submitted themselves to the Conqueror, bj whom they were
readily pardoned. The citizens, too, hearing of his lenity, went out to meet
him, and delivered to him the keys of the city. They also were apparently
received into favour, but a heavy fine was levied upon them, and two castles
in the city were shortly after fortified by the Conqueror, and strongly gar-
risoned with Norman soldiers. On the arrival of William, the Saxon nobles,
who had manifested a disposition to shake off the Norman yoke, fled into
Scotland for protection. Among these were Morcar, Edwin, and Gospatrick.
Elated by his success, William sent a herald into Scotland to demand the
Etheling, and the English lords ; but Malcolm refusing to comply with the
mandate, and knowing that the Conqueror would revenge the denial, invited
the King of Denmark to unite with the English and Scotch in an attempt to
expel the Norman. The Danish monarch soon united in the confederacy, and
sent a fleet of 250 ships, well laden with troops, commanded by his brother
Esbom, or Osbem, with the two sons of the King, Harold and Canute, as
well as other distinguished personages. This fleet entered the Humber in
1069, and the forces being joined by the English and Scotch, they marched
direct to York, where they were met by the Atheling and a large number
of the English exiles, who had arrived fix)m Scotland for the purpose. The
Norman garrison in the castles prepared for a siqge, and on the 19th of Sep-
tember, 1069, they set fire to some houses in the suburbs, to prevent them
being made useful to the besiegers. But the wind being high, the flames
spread &rther than was designed, and burnt down a great part of the city,
including the Cathedral, and the inyaluable library placed there by King
Egbert, in a.d. 800. During the great confusion, into which the imexpected
ravages of the fire threw the garrisons, the Danes and English valiantly
attacked the fortresses, entered the city sword in hand, and cut the Ncnrmans
(about 8,000 in number) to pieces. All who escaped this dreadful slaughter
were the Sherifif of the county, his wife, and two children, with a few others
who were found in the castle.
Waltheof, 5th Earl of Northumberland, and son of Siward, was now ap-
pointed Governor of the City, with a strong garrison of English and Scotch
soldiers under his command; and the Danes retired to a good situation,
between the Humber and Trent, to wait the Normans. William, who was
hunting in the forest of Dean when he received the first news of this disaster,
swore his &vourite oath (see page 112) that he would destroy all the people of
aSHBSAL HUriOBT OF Y0BK8HIBB. Idl
the north. Hearing that the garriBon of York had been taken bj his enemiei,
he was much exasperated, and hastened at the head of a powerful armj into
the north. He spread his camps oyer the country for the space of 100 miles,
and then the execution of his tow began.^^ Alured, a monk of Beyerley, who
wrote in the Idth century, states, " that the Conqueror destroyed men, women,
and children, from York, eren to the western sea;" and the historian of
Malmsbury tells us, that no less than 100,000 persons perished at that time
In a district 60 miles in length. The whole country between York and Dur-
ham was laid waste so effectually, that for nine years afterwards the ground
remained untilled ; and many of the wretched inhabitants, who had escaped
the sknghter, were reduced to the necessity of eating dogs, cats, and even their
own species, to prolong a miserable existence. This account is confirmed
by Boger de Hoyeden, and Simon of Durham, as well as by the concur-
rent testimony of all the historians of those times. When the Conqueror
amved befinre the city, he summoned the Governor to surrender, but Waltheof
sternly reused, and set his threats at defiance. The wily Norman now had
reooQiBe to bribery: for a large sum of money, and permission to plunder the
sea ooast^ the fisuithless and corrupt Danish General, Osbert, agreed to quit
the country as soon as the spring would permit William lost no time in
polling fixrwaid the si^^e* He attempted to take the dty by storm, after
making a large breach in the wall with engines, but was repulsed with great
kfls; Waltheof, himself^ according to William of Malmsbury, having stood
■ingly in the breach, and cut down several of the Normans who attempted to
nunmt it From the same historian we learn that about this time a severe
battle was fought near York between the Normans and a powerful army,
probably of Caledonians, who came to the reUef of the besieged; in which
the NormanSf however, were victorious.
Affcer a gallant defence of six months, York was obliged through &mine to
capitnlaAe; and though the conditions of the surrender were favourable to the
besieged, yet the Conqueror attributing the first success of the Danes to the
treachery of the citizens, took signal rengeance upon them, put the soldiers
to die 8Word« and burnt the dty to the ground. York never enturaly over-
came this shock, nor recovered its ancient splendour. The Conqueror pro-
fcssed great fiiendship&r Waltfaeotthe Governor, who had so nobly resisted
hhon; and the more firmly to attach him to his interest, he being a man of
preominent note^ he gave him in marriage Judith, his niece, daughter of
Maud. Covnte^ of Alb«nnarie» his uterine sister, and at the same time
• Helittihed* 8es also Tonsil Hkt Bag., vd. L, p. 70.
IdS GENEBAL HISTOBY OF TOBKSHIBE.
restored to him the Earldoms of Northampton and Huntingdon, which be-
longed to Siward, his fiather. Waltheof having become involved in the revolt
of the Borons, for the expulsion of the King, in the 10th year of this
reign (1076), he was arraigned for conspiracy, and was condemned and
executed at Winchester, in the same year, and his decapitated trunk was
treated with every possible indignity. The body having lain for some time
in the cross-way, where it was buried, was afterwards removed to Croyland
or Crowland Abbey, in Lincolnshire, where it was honourably sepulchred.
And thus perished the brave Waltheof, the last of the Saxon Earls. The
execution of this nobleman is observed to be the first instance of beheading
in this kingdom. His widow, the Countess Judith, not being a participant
in her husband's treason, was allowed to retain his lands, manors, and Earl-
doms. Historians, however, have accused her of treachery towards her lord ;
for though his innocence was attested by Archbishop Lanfranc, yet at her
instigation, who is said to have effected a second marriage, he was con-
demned. Ingulphus, a monk of Croyland, and her contemporary, has not
scrupled to describe her by the execrable appellation, impiissima Jezebel,
York, before it was burnt by the Norman, was considered by Hardinge,
superior to London ; and was, according to the author of the PoUchronicon,
''as fedr as the city of Home, from the beauty and magnificence of its
buildings." Harrison very justly styled it Altera Eoma; and Leland tells us
that it was so large, that its suburbs extended to the villages a mile distant.
Li 1071, the embers of civil war being rekindled by the jealousy of
William, the influence of Edwin and Morcar was judged dangerous ; and the
King thought it expedient to secure their persons. Edwin, whilst en-
deavouring to escape towards the borders of Scotland, was betrayed by three of
his vassals, and he fell with twenty of his fidthfiil adherents, fighting against
his pursuers. The traitors presented his head to William, who rewarded
their services with a sentence of perpetual banishment. His brother Morcar
fled to the standard of Hereward, erected in the " Camp of Refuge,*' in the
Isle of Ely, Cambridgeshire ; and with the Bishop of Durham, and many
Saxon nobles, was afterwards condemned by William to perpetual imprison-
ment In 1073, the Conqueror being at Durham, summoned before his
tribunal, Cospatrick, the Earl of Northumberland, and charged him with old
offences, which it was supposed had been long ago forgiven — ^the massacres
of the Normans at Durham and York. He was banished by the sentence of
the court; and having retired to Scotland, Malcolm gave >^iTp the castle and
demesne of Dunbar.
The people of England finding further resistance to the Norman useless^
GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RK8HIRE, 193
submitted to his yoke in sullen despair. Even Edgar the Etheling consented
to solicit a livelihood of the man whose ambition had robbed him of a crown.
William granted him the first place at court, an apartment in the palace, and
a yearly pension of 865 pounds of silver.
Nothing of importance is recorded of Yorkshire from this period until the
year 1137, when, on the 4th of June in that year, the city, which had par-
tially risen from its ashes, was destroyed by an accidental fire, which burnt
down the Cathedral, the Abbey of St. Mary, St. Leonard's Hospital, thirty-
nine parish churches in the city, and Trinity church in the suburbs, besides
many streets and public buildings.*
Whilst the civil war between King Stephen and the Empress Maud, or
Matilda, raged with destructive fury, David, King of Scotland, uncle to the
Empress, espoused her cause, and with a powerful army of Normans, Ger-
mans, Saxons, Cumbrian Britons, Northumbrians, Ficts, and Scots, three
times invaded the northern provinces of England, and laid w^te the country
as far as the city of York. In these expeditions the army of the Scottish
King coiiducted the war with the ferocity of savages. They profaned the
churches, burnt the monasteries and villages, promiscuously slaughtered
children, aged people, and the defenceless ; and exercised the most unheard
of barbarities upon the natives in general. Pregnant women were ripped up,
and the infants cut to pieces. The fair females, which they spared in their
route, and which were generally distinguished by their birth or beauty, were
stripped of their clothes, tied to each other with thongs, and driven at the
point of the spear to Scotland; where, after suffering every kind of indignity,
thej were retained as slaves to their captors, or bartered by them for cattle
to the neighbouring chieftains.
Their conduct so incensed the powerful Norman Barons, that they re-
solved, unanimously, at the suggestion of Thurston, Archbishop of York, who
was then Lieutenant-Governor of the North, to repel the invaders; and even
the Saxon-English were so exasperated against the Scots, that they forgot
their hatred of the Normans, in the pleasing hope of taking vengeance upon
sach cruel enemies. The aged Archbishop succeeded in uniting all to fight
for their countiy, their families, and their God. David, hearing of their
intentions, drew his army from before York, and retired northwards. The
chief of the Barons who joined in this struggle, were William le Gros, or de
Albermarle, Walter de Gaunt, Eobert and Adam de Brus, Roger de Mowbray,
• On the previous dny, the Cathedral of Bochester had been bnmt; and on the 27th
of the same diaasbcous month, the dty of Bath was nearly destroyed by fire.
Id4 aSHBRAL HISTOBt OV TOBKSHnOB.
Walter L' Espec, Gilbert and William de Lacy^ and William de Percy. At
the appointed time, the nobles, with their Yaaaala, repaired to York, and
were met bj the paroohial clergy, with the bravest of their paziahionera ;
and after spending three days in fasting and derotiony and swearing before
the Archbishop that they would never desert each other, they marched
against the enemy, under the command of that prelate, as fiir as Thirsk
Gasile, then a stronghold of the Mowbrays. There Thurston resigned his
authority to Balph, Bishop of the Oikney Isles, William le Qros, and Walter
L'Espeo.
On the 33nd of August, 1188, the two armies met on Guton Moor, near
Northallerton, and a terrible battle ensued. This engagement is called the
BatUe of the Standard, from a high standard round which the English as-
sembled, and which was a tall mast of a vessel, strongly fastened into the
framework of a carriage upon wheels, having at the top a crucifix, a silver
pix containing a consecrated host ; and from which were suspended the con*
secrated banners of the three patron saints — St. Peter of Yorii, St. John of
Beverley, and St Wilfred of Ripon. The standard was guarded by a chosen
band of knights, who had sworn rather to die than yield it to the hands of
the enemy. After the Bishop had made an oration to the army, from the
carriage, and had given them the blessing, which they received on their
knees, they all shouted " Amen," and rose to receive the shock of the enemy.
But the spirit of discord and disunion reigned in the Scottish camp, and
this is not surprising, considering the many different races of which it was
composed. David had intended that the battle should be commenced by the
men-at-arms and archers, in whom his chief strength consisted ; but the men
of Galloway, who fought with long slender spears, and who dii^layed great
bravery during the campaign, insisted upon taking that post of honour.
After an angry discussion, the King was obliged to yield the van to the G$l'
wegians. The English drew up in a compact body, the spearmen and
archers in front, and the heavy armed chivalry in the rear, the sacred banner
towering bright above them all. The Scots were formed in four lines, the
men of Galloway (or Picts) in front, who began the battle, wildly rushing on
their opponents, and throwing themselves, like a tempest, upon the En^sh
spearmen. For a moment the English were staggered, but whilst thus held
at bay, the matchless archery of the native English was brought to bear
with tremendous effect upon the enemy. The naked Galwegiana were on
the point of turning before these terrible dischai^es of barbed death, when
the Scottish men-at-arms, commanded by Prince Henry, coming to their
rescue, dashed with such impetuosity upon the English rank^ that they were
aSVBBAI. HX8T0BT OF T0BX8BIBB. 135
torn asonder, and yictorjr appeared to snule upon the Scottish monarch.
The conflict now grew hotter ; it was " Lance to lance, and horse to horse *'
— when lo ! the Scottish forces waver — they are seized by a panic — a rumour
bad spread through the ranks that the King was slain ; and though he him-
self, hehnet in hand, hastens from rank to rank, to reassure them that he is
jet alive— he fails in rallying them — they fly, and are ruthlessly slaughtered
hy their pursuers ; and the battle is lost. In rain the King and his brave
son Henry, and a few faithful nobles, maintained the combat; notwith-
standing the astonishing proofs of valour and intrepidity which they displayed,
fttej were nobly defeated by the newly-raised army of the " chariot-mounted
banners." The Scottish army consisted of d7,000 men, and nearly one half
are said to have perished in the battle and flight on that fetal day ; and, as
we have no account of prisoners, it is probable that no quarter was given.
Thelosson the English side is not stated; that of the Scoto is most probably
guess work.
There are no indications of hillocks or moun^ to be seen in the neighbour-
hood, to mark the graves of the dain ; and the only name of a place bearing
a xvfenmce to such an event, is " Scot Pit Lane,** applied to a green lane, a
little to the north of the spot where stood the consecrated banner of the
Englidi army, and which is stiU known as " Standard Hill.*' Some writers
suppose that the dead, excepting a select few, were never buried. The fleld
of this— ^ne of the most bloody battles recorded in the history of this king-
dom— was an open level common, upon which little advantage could be gained
over an enemy by selection of ground, as it afforded no strong posts, or easily
deCmded positions.
This agnal defeat so overawed the Scoto, that the people of the north of
Ea^and i^jpear to have been secure from their incursions for a long period.
For seven centuries York had exhibited a series of sanguinary wars, and re-
peated desolations ; but from the date of this battle, it ei\joyed fer some
ages the blessings of peace, and again rose to wealth and importance.
Li A.D. 1160, just dd years after the terrible conflagration in the reign of
Stephen, Henry 11. held in York the first meeting said to be distinguished
in histoiy by the name of Parliament* Malcolm, King of Scotland, accom-
• The word Psriiament is derived from Porter la ment-'to speak one*i mind. Some
••gr that this 'word ParUament does not occur nntil the above year, and that before that
time it was nsnally denominated the King's Court, or Great Council. Drake's Ebor., p.
as. Camden, however, thinks that this word was used in the 16th of Heniy I. Cor.
Dise., tdL 1, p. 804. Blaokstone says it was first applied to general assemblies of the
States, aadw Loois YIL, in Franoe, about the middle of the lath eentory; and that the
126 GENEiUL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIBE.
panied by all his Barons, Abbots, and Prelates, attended and did homage to
Henry, in the Cathedral, for his kingdom of Scotland, and acknowledged him
and his successors his superior lords. In 1171 Henry called another con-,
vention of Bishops and Barons at York, to which he summoned William, the
successor of Malcolm, to do homage for his kingdom ; and in memorial of his
subjection, the Scotch Eang deposited his breast plate, spear, and saddle, on
the altar of St. Peter, in the Cathedral church. About this period York
appears to have been eminent for trade, for a few years later, the King, under
pretence of raising money for the Holy Wars, imposed upon his subjects a
contribution of one-tenth of their moveables, and demanded from the city of
York, one-half of the sum that he required from London.
In the beginning of the reign of Richard I, (sumamed Cceur de Lion —
the hen-hearted) a general massacre of the resident Jews took place, under
circumstances of peculiar atrocity. The crusades to the Holy Land, to rescue
Jerusalem from the hands of the Saracens, tended to inflame the zeal of the
nation against all men not bearing the name of Christian ; besides, the pre-
judices of the age had stigmatized money lenders at interest, with the odious
name of usurers. Another cause of the implacable hatred, and pubhc hos-
first mention of it in our statute law, is in the preamble to the statnte of Westminster,
i., 8, Edw. I., A.D. 1272. Com., vol. i, p. 146. Ingolplius, who died in 1109, used the
word Parliament for a meeting of the Chapter of a Convent. When the Norman Con-
queror of Britain distributed the landed property of the kingdom amongst his numerous
followers, the Barons, who held their land in ctxpite^ or directly under the King, formed
the Council of the Bealm, or the Parliament of that period. (See page 111.) But in
process of time, when the lands became subdivided, and the number of Barons increased
to a prodigious multitude, the great Barons only were summoned by the King, and the
others assembled at the writ of the Sheriff, and were placed in a separate house. This
was the origin of the two Houses of Parliament. (Blackst. Com. Archb., vol. i., p. 898.)
When the towns of England had sprung into importance as marts of industry, the
Crown, in order to neutralise the power of the nobility, called ui)on them to send members
to Parliament — ^but at long intervals : and that may be considered the real origin of the
third estate in the Bealm. The Crown recognised a body, which it called the Commons,
because it feared the nobility, and, wishing to hold the balance of authority, it pitted the
two extremes of society against each oUier. But these Parliaments, as regarded the true
interests of the country at large, were mere mockeries — for they were only summoned
when the Crown required the consent of the Commons to laws passed to strengthen
itself, to levy taxes, to curb the power of the church by the statute de mortmain; or of
the nobles, by the statute de donis. This, until the revolution of 1688, was all the share ,
the Commons had in the government — for the tradition of an hereditaiy monarchy in
alliance with an hereditary nobility was faithfully observed; and no commoner, except
through the doors of the church or the law, was ever raised to a high office in the state.
A dozen of such elevations in six centuries wiU cover all these promotions from the raaks
of the people.
GSNEBAL BISTORT OF Y0BK8HIRB. 127
tilify of the English people, to the Children of Israel, was, that thej had
heen introduced by the Norman Conqueror, and a number of them settled in
York soon after the Conquest, whose immense increase of wealth, eventually
proved to them a source of terrible evil. The King, who was crowned with
great pomp at Westminster, on the 3rd of September, 1189, with a view to
obtain popular flEivour, strictly forbid the presence of any Jew whatever at
his coronation. Notwithstanding this prohibition, two of the most wealthy
Jews of York, named Benedict and Jocenus, repaired to London, with a
pompous retinue, in order to meet their brethren, and to offer some valuable
presents to the King, as a peace-offering at his coronation. On the day of
the ceremonial, many of the Jews mixed in the crowd, and the populace,
with a savage ferocity, commenced a general massacre of them in London,
plundered their property, burnt down their houses, and destroyed numbers
' of their wives and children. Benedict and Jocenus were attacked ; and the
former being grievously wounded, was dragged into a church, where he was
forced to renounce Judaism, and submit to the ceremony of baptism. But
the next day, when the heroic Israelite was brought into the presence of the
King, and asked whether he was a Christian or no, he boldly answered,
that he was a Jew, and should die in the fiaith of his fathers. The King
ordered him to be restored to his friends, but he soon afterwards died from
the effect of his bruises. Jocenus returned unhurt to York, where a still
more awful fate awaited him. During a very boisterous night, the city of York,
either by accident or design, took fire, and the flames rapidly spread in all
directions. This calamity was seized upon to renew the persecutions against
the Jews ; and while the citizens were engaged in extinguishing the flames,
the house of Benedict was violently entered by the lawless rabble, who mur-
dered the widow and children of the deceased Jew, and seized aU the property
upon which they could lay their rapacious hands. Alarmed at this outrage,
Jocenus sought refuge in the castle, to which he removed his family, and the
whole of his wealth ; and his example was followed by nearly all the Jews in
the city. In a few days the house of Jocenus shared the fate of that of
Benedict. The Governor of the castle having, some business without its
walls, left it for a short time in the possession of the Jews, who, fearing that
he might have joined in the conspiracy with their enemies, refused to re-admit
him on his return. The Sheriff, enraged at this indignity, issued his writ of
posse eamit€Uus, to raise the country to besiege and take the castle. Though
an innumerable company of armed men, as well from the city as from the
sorrounding country, rose simultaneously, and begirt the castle, yet the wiser
and the better sort of citizens stood aloof from a flood that might soon over-
138 aSNXRU. HUTOBT OF YORKBHIBB.
whelm themselTes. Roger de Hoveden infonns us that the Jews, now dmen
to extremitiesy held a council, and offered a very large sum of money to be
allowed to escape with their lives, but this offer was rejected. We are told
by Matthew Paris, that the council was then addressed by a certain foreign
rabbi, or doctor of their laws, who had visited England for the instruction of
the Jews, as follows: — "Men of Israel, our God, whose laws I have presh
cribed to you, has oommanded that we should at any time be ready to die
for those laws ; and now, when death looks us in the face, we have only to
choose whether we should prolong a base and infismous life, or embrace a
gallant and glorious death. If we fall into the hands of our enemies, at their
will and pleasure we must die ; but our Creator, who gave us life, did also
ei\join that with our own hands, and of our own accord, we should devoutly
restore it to him again, rather than await the cruelty of an enemy." This
invitation to imitate the example of the followers of Josephus, in the cave of
Jotapata, was embraced by many of the Jews, but others choose rather to try
the clemency of the Christians, upon which the rabbi further said, *' Let those
whom this good and pious discourse displeases, separate themselves, and be
cut off fiom the congregation! We, for the sake of our paternal law, despise
this transitory life." Before the selfnlevoted victims began to execute the
sentence upon each other, they set fire to the castle, and committed all their
property to the flames, to prevent it falling into the hands of their enemies.
The rabbi then directed that the husbands should cut the throats of their
own wives and children; and Jocenus b^an the execution, by applying the
knife to the throats of his wife and five children. The example was speedily
feUowed by the other masters of fsunilies; and afterwards, as a mark of pecu-
liar honour, the rabbi cut the throat of Jocenus himself 1 The last of the
victims was the selfnlevoted adviser of the deed, who was probably the <»ily
actual suicide.
The survivors then announced the horrid catastrophe which had be&Uen
their brethren, to the besiegers, casting the dead bodies of tiie victims over
the wall to convince them of the reality of their story. At the same time
they si^)plicated for mercy, promising to become Christians. Pretending to
compassionaie their sufferings, and promising pardon on the condition named,
the merciless barbarians obtained admission into the castie, and dew every
<me of the poor Jews, though to the last they cried out for baptiam. Tho
diabolical murderers then hastened to the Catiiedral, where the bonds (for
loans), which the Christians had given to tlie Jews, were deposited, and
breaking open tiie chests, burnt in the midst of the nave of the church, all
the dooumfidls they contained* thus fireeing themselves and others from their
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 129
obligations.* This massacre, in which it is supposed that not less than from
1,500 to 2,000 Jews in York fell victims, occurred on the lltli of March,
1190. And in spite of a proclamation in their favour by the King, the
same spirit of persecution manifested itself in many of the large towns of tlie
kingdom about that period. These horrors are imiformly reprobated by
the historians of the time. When the King, who had embarked for the
Holy Land, heard of these enormities, he sent orders to his Chancellor and
Regent, William Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, to go down into Yorkshire, and
execute strict justice upon the offenders, but many of the miscreants had fled
from, the city, and the remaining citizens declared that the inhabitants of tlio
neighbouring towns were the principal offenders. However he deposed, and
committed the Sheriff and Governor to prison ; took away one hundred hos-
tages ; repaired the castle ; inflicted flnes upon a few of the citizens ;f and
gave the government of the county to his brother, Osbert de Longchamp.
Notwithstanding this sanguinary persecution, a new colony of Jews soon
settled in York, where they remained till the time of Edward L
The reader of English history knows that Richard L, so glorious to military
fame, and so oppressive to his subjects, after performing prodigies of personal
valotir in Palestine, and becoming a hero of romance, had the misfortune to
be trepanned in his way home, by Leopold, Duke of Austria, who sold him
to the Emperor of Germany ; and that he was transported by his new pro-
prietor from Vienna to Mentz, and other places, where he was generally kept
in rigorous confinement, till a treaty was concluded, by which the Emperor
extorted from him, or rather from the people of England, 100,000 marks of
silver, of the weight of Cologne. To raise this immense sum, as well as to
leplenish the exhausted treasury, recourse was had to the sale of offices of
trust and honour ; the situations of Sheriff and Justiciary were disposed of
to the highest bidder ; and Eichard declared that he would sell the city of
London if he could find a purchaser. The Corporation charters too, of the
various boroughs, were renewed or confirmed, on payment of heavy fines.
In 1195, Geoffiney Plantagenet, Archbishop of York, possessed himself of the
shrievalty of the county of York, on payment of a fine to the King, of 3000
• Hoveden, 379. Dicets, 661. Brompton, 1172.
•f Bidiard Malebisse paid ceo marks for his pardon, &c., on account of being concerned
in the slan^ter of the Jews at York. Again, xx marks to have his land restored, which
was seized on that occasion. Maddoz*8 Exehefuer, 800.
The mark was an iadeierminate sum, which varied in different ages. Some have
stated it at 6 oz., others at 8 oz. Maddox sajs a mark of gold was equal to six pounds, or
six score shillings ; the mark of silver, 13s. id.
130 GENERAL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIKE.
marks.'i' Having by this means united the temporal and spiritual authori-
ties, this prelate, who was the natural son of King Heniy 11., flourished
with all the power and dignity of a sovereign Prince, 'in the north of
England. The office of High Sheriff was, in these times, one of great
trust and responsibility; as the keeper of the King*s peace, he was the
first man in the county, and superior in rank to any nobleman. He was the
King's farmer or bailiff; the collector of all the royal rents and revenues
within his district ; to his custody were entrusted all the royal castles and
manors lying within the bailiwick ; and he provided the castles and fortified
towns with ammunition and other necessaries. He was dignified witib the
title of Viscount, and all the freeholders of the county, whatever might be
their rank, were obliged to give their personal attendance, to swell out the
magnificence of his train. From this service, even the Hchest and most
powerful barons were not exempt. Hence the retinue of a provincial shmff
must have equalled that of a powerful monarch.
The reign of King John began in turbulence, and ended in disgrace. Ac*
cording to the custom of these times, when the monarch had no settled
revenue, it was usual for him to renew the borough charters at his accesdon,
for the purpose of recruiting his treasury ; and John followed this eauuuple.
In the beginning of his reign, his Mcyesty, accompanied by the Queen and
many of his principal Barons, made a progress into the north. The royal
party crossed the Humber from Grimsby, and proceeded to Cottingham and
Beverley, and thence to York, where a convention was held, which was at-
tended by the King of Scotlfind and his nobles. It appears that, on this
occasion, the citizens were not well affected towards John, for they refused
to show him any marks of honourable greeting, or to display the usual tokens
of joy and congratulation at the presence of their sovereign amongst them.
The irritable monarch was so highly incensed at this instance of n^Iect,
that he amerced the city in the sum of £100.f In the last year of this
troublous reign (IdlO), the northern Barons laid siege to York, but granted
a truce, and retired on receiving 1000 marks from the citizens.
In 1330, Henry m. attended a convocation at York, in which Alex-
ander, King of Scotland, swore to many the Lady Joanna, or Jane, Heniy*8
eldest sister; and in the following year, the marriage was solemnized in
the Cathedral church of this city, in the presence of the Bang, amidst very
splendid festivities. This was the lady whom the Scots in derision called
Joan Makepeace. " A name not in vain," says Buchanan, " for, from that
• Lei. CoU. vol. iL p. 210. Stowe'a Chioo. p. 167. f Mag. Bot 8 Job.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 131
time, there was a strict alliance between the two E^ings.*' On the same
occasion, was solemnized the marriage of Hubert de Burgh, the Justiciary,
and Margaret, sister of King Alexander. In 1280, Henry and the King of
Scotland, with the principal nobility, kept Christmas at York, in a most
magnificent manner; and in 1287, Cardinal Otto, the Pope's L^ate, ne-
gocaated a peace between the Kings of England and Scotland, who met at
York for that purpose.
In 1251, the marriage of Alexander 11. of Scotland, and Margaret, the
beaatifiil daughter of Henry lU., was celebrated at York, with all the mag-.
nificence and grandeor suitable to the qnptials of such exalted persons. All
the peers of the realm accompanied Henry and his Queen ; and the Scottish
King was attended by his mother, and a large retinue of his nobility. On
Christmas Day, Henry conferred the honour of Knighthood on Alexander,
and tweoij of his nobles; and on the following day the royal pair were
married in the Cathedral, by the Archbishop, Walter de Grey. As we have
just stated, an immense number of military commanders, and other persons
of rank, attended Henry ; and Alexander was attended by more than sixty
Knights, dad in a most superb manner. During the stay of these monarchs
in York, the Archbishop several times entertained them with princely mag-
nificence and grandeur ; expending during the visit of the royal party more
than 4,000 marks, or nearly £2,700. For one feast alone he had sixty &t
oxen roasted and cooked in various ways.
In this chivalrous age mock contests formed the principal amusements of
the nobility. On aU great occasions a tournament was formally proclaimed ;
and here the aspiring warrior had an opportunity of recommending himself
at once to the notice of his Sovereign, and the recommendation of his supe-
riorB, which led the way to honourable distinction ; and of exciting at the
same time the admiration and esteem of the softer sex, by the display of
superior strength, activity, or military skilL On the present occasion, a
grand tournament took place at York, in the presence of the two Kings, and
aU the principal nobility of England and Scotland, In 1291, Edward I.
visited York on his way to Scotland; when the famous Welshman, the repre-
sentative of the ancient Princes of South Wales, Bees-ap-Meredith, was tried
and condemned here for high treason, and drawn through the city to the
gaUows, where he was hanged and quartered.* In 1206, the Scots having
made an inroad into England, this valiant monarch marched against them
• Slowe'a Annals. The word <' Ap" is a Welsh prefix, equivaldnt U>/' llto" in Scotland,
and the ^'O" m Ireland.
182 GENERAL HI9T0BT OF YOBKSHIRE.
with a well appointed army, and joining in battle, he slew 28,000 of the
enemy in the field, and put the rest to flight Berwick, Dunbar, and Edin-
burgh, and other places, opened their gates to the conqueror; and John
Baliol, the Scottish King, was forced to resign his kingdom by a charter,
dated 10th of July, at Brechin. The sceptre, coronation stone,')' ^c, were
sent to London.
In 1298, the same monarch summoned a special Parliament to meet at
York, when the English Barons attended in great numbers; those who diso-
beyed the order to be present, being accounted rebels. At this assembly, the
King's confirmation of Magna Chqrta (or the Great Charter), with the
Charta de Forresta (Charter of the Forests), was read, and the Bishop of
Carlisle pronounced a curse upon all who should attempt to violate them.
The Scottish lords, who were summoned to attend this Parliament, not
making their appearance, the English lords decreed, that an army should be
sent, under the command of the Earl of Surrey, to relieve Roxborough, which
the Scots were at that time besieging. At this Parliament, the Commons of
of the Realm granted the King the ninth part of their goods ; the Archbishop
of Canterbuiy, with the clergy of his province, the tenth penny ; and the
Archbishop of York, with his clergy, a fifth.
Edward afterwards summoned another Parliament to York, and renewed
his former order for the attendance of the Scottish nobility; but they again
refused compliance with the King's command, which induced him to issue a
commission of array, ordering his subjects to meet him at Eoxborough on St.
John's day. The famous battle of Falkirk then ensued, in which the cele-
* This famous stone, on which the inaaguration of the Scottish Kings was perfonned,
was removed from the monasterj of Scone, in Perthshire, and is now inserted in the
seat of the Coronation chair of the Sovereigns of England. It is a flat stone, nearly
square, and is said to be the identical stone which formed Jacob's pillow, when he had
those celestial and mystical visions mentioned in holy writ. Tradition says it was
brought out of Palestine into Ireland, and was there used as the inauguration stone of
the Kings of that country ; that it was brought from Ireland by Fergus, the son of Erie,
who led the Dabriods to the shores of Argyleshire ; and was deposited in the eiiy of
Scone. An old antiquarian has described this stone, " the ancientest respected monu-
ment in the world; for, although some others may be more ancient as to duration, yet
thus superstiously regarded they ore not." The antiquity of this " Stone of Destiny "
is undoubted, however it may be questioned whether it be the same stone on which
the ancient Kings of Ireland were crowned on the hiU of Tara. The history of Us
being used for the coronation of the Scottish Kings, and of its removal from Scone
by Edward I., admits of no doubt. A record exists of the expenses attending its re-
moval. The curious visitor to London, may inspect it, together with the andent chair
made for its reception, in the reign of Edward I., in the chapel of St. Edward the Con-
fessor, Westminster Abbey.
OEKERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIBE. 133
I hnted chieftain, Sir William Wallace, was defeated; after which the King
letiimed to Yorit, and in 1299, held another Parliament there. In 1304,
Edward completed the reduction of Scotland, though not its suhjugation;
sod after disbanding his armj, he ordered the Courts of Exchequer and
King's Bench, which had continued during seven years at York, to resume
their former station at Westminster.'ie
Yoik then ranked amongst the English ports, and furnished one vessel to
£dwaid's fleet; but Hull had already begun to rise its £Bune as a maritime
town, and when vessels were built on a larger scale, it absorbed a great share
of the commerce which was formerly confined to this city.
Bdwazd, having conquered and united the principality of Wales to the
crown of England, and having constrained the Scots to swear fealty to him,
qpent the winter before his death at Carlisle, where he summoned his last
Parliament The Scots, taking advantc^e of the King^s absence, and of his
having dismissed his army, assembled their dispersed forces, attacked and
obtained a signal victory over the English troops, and took prisoner the Earl
of Pembroke, who commanded in Scotland. Exasperated at this unexpected
revolution, Edward resolved to march into the heart of Scotland, and destroy
the kingdom from sea to sea; and to that end he summoned all the vassals
I of the crown to meet him at Carlisle, about the middle of summer, on pain of
forfeiting their fees. But, whilst "man proposes, God disposes;" no sooner
had Edward assembled the finest army England had ever seen, than he was
seized with a distemper, which put an end to his days, and all his projects.
On his death-bed he earnestly recommended Prince Edward, his eldest son and
successor, to prosecute the war with Scotland with the utmost vigour. He
also advised the Prince to carry along with him his remains at the head of the
anny, not doubting but that the sight of his bones would daunt the courage
of the enemies he had thrice conquered. After these last orders to his son,
he caused himself to be carried by easy journeys to meet the enemy ; but he
had not advanced above five miles, to a village in Cumberland, called Burgh-
npon-Sands, when his sickness was increased by an attack of dysentery, which
carried him o£P on the 7th of July, 1307, in the 68th year of his age, and
85th of his rdgn. And thus ended the career of the warlike, politic, but
unjust King Edward I., who has been deservedly called " the hammer of
Scotland.** His body was conveyed to Westminster Abbey, and laid by the
remains of Henry, his father; and the memory of his death is preserved on
• lisgord's Hist England, vol. iiL, p. fUO. Fcp. 8vo.
184 GENERAL HISTORY OF tORKSHIRE.
the spot where he died, bj a square pillar bearing an appropriate Latin
inscription.'ic
One of the greatest e^ils of the feudal system was, that when a feeble
monarch filled the throne, the kingdom was torn to pieces by domestic faction
and civil war. The vast domains of some of the nobles, over which their
authority was almost unlimited, gave them a power nearly equal to that of the
King; and the reader of English history is well aware that these factious
ohieftaans often raised the standard of rebellion, even against their monarchs.
Edward 11. was one of the most weak and unfortunate of the English Kings ;
and his idleness, incapacity, and passion, for favourites, proved lus ruin.
His inordinate attachment to Piers de Gaveston, together with the haughty,
arrogant, and insolent disposition of the favourite, led to a combination of the
nobility against them. Gaveston, and some of his followers, had been
bamshed from the kingdom by Edward L, but in the year 1812, Edward II.,
in an evil hour, invited him to meet him at York, and " received him as a gift
from heaven.f **
On this occasion the King kept his Ohiistmas at York. The return of the
&vourite excited the resentment of the Barons, and, as we have stated, a
powerM conspiracy was formed against him. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, ^
cousin-german to the King, first Prince of the blood, and one of the most
opulent and poweriul subjects in the kingdom, was the chief of the party who
had bound themselves, by an oath, to expel G^ve^n; and he suddenly
raised an army, and marched to York, the walls of which city Edward had
caused to be strongly fortified, and put in a posture of defence, in anticipation
of this outbreak.
The King, hearing of the approach of Lancaster, fled with his &vourite to
Newcastle, whither the Earl followed in pursuit of them ; but before the
arrival of the pursuers, Edward had just time to escape to Tynemouth, where
he embarked, and sailed with Gaveston to Scarborough. The castie of the
latter place being deemed impregnable, the King left his favourite in it (some
say that he made him governor of that fortress), and returned to York, either
to raise an army to oppose his enemies, or, by his presence, to allay their
animosity. In the meantime the confederated nobles sent the Earl of
of Pembroke, with a strong force, to besiege Scarborough, which, after a
gallant defence, capitulated upon merciful terms (afterwards flagrantiy violated
* The original monument was erected by Heniy, Dake of Norfolk, in 1685; but it
having gone to decay, the present pillar was raised by the late Earl of Lonsdale, in 1803.
f Stowe's Annals.
OBMERAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBE. 185
by the victor) wMch extended even to Gaveston himself, who waa, however,
taken pirisoner. Pembroke, now master of the person of this public enemj,
conducted him to the castle of Deddington, near Banbury, where, on pretence
of other business, he left him protected by a feeble guard. Warwick, pro-
bably in concert with Pembroke, attacked the castle ; the garrison refused
to make any resistance, and the unfortunate Oaveston was yielded up to
him, and conducted to Warwick Castle. The Earls of Lancaster, HerelEbrd,
and Arundel, immediately repaired thither, and without any regard, either to
the laws or the military capitulation, they ordered the obnoxious &vouiite
to be beheaded, and the execution took place on Blacklow Hill (now Gavers-
ley Heath), on the dOth of June, ISld.* Such was the miserable end ot
Edward's first ^Eivourite.
After the disastrous battle of Bannockbum, in 1314, in which Edward
lost about 50,000 men, he narrowly escaped to York, where he held a great
coonciL At this time the prices of the following articles were fixed by the
King's writs: — ^for a stall or com fed ox, not more than £1. 4s. ; lor a grass
fed ox, not more than 16s. ; for a &t stalled cow, Ids. ; for a com fed mutton
with wool grown. Is. 8d. ; a fat hog, two years dd, not to exceed Ss. 4d. ; a
ht goose, ^d. ; a fat capon, dd. ; a &t ben, or two chickens, lid. ; and 94
eggs, not more than Id.
In the year 1315 there was a great fiunine and morftaliiy; the flesh of
beasts was conmpted ; men were forced to feed on dogs and horses ; many,
it is said, eat not only their own children, but stole others to devour them
also ; whilst the old prisoners in some of the prisons fell upon those newly
brought in amongst them, and greedily devoured them whilst half aHve. In
the year following. Sir JosseHne Danville, and his brother Robert, who, with
200 men in the habit of friars, attacked the episcopal palace at Durham, and
conunitted many notable robberies, were executed at York. In the same
year the King issued orders from Beverley, fer arming the whole population ot
Yorkshire and Northumberland, between the ages of 16 and 60, both horse
and &ot; with directions that they should be prepared to march with him
against the Scots; and he appointed officers to see that his commands were
carried into execution.f On the 15th of September he ordered the levy in
• Hinderwell'8 Bist Scarboroagh, p. 51.
f The regnlar and established modes of assembling annies in fonner times, when
the eoDstitutional militaiy fbrce of EoLglaad consisted of feadal troops, and the posse
oQOBitatQS, were as follows : — ^The tenant who held in capUe, that is one who held imme*
diately from the King, the quantity of land amounting to a Knight's fee, was to hold him-
self in readiness, with horse andannsi toaenpetbe Eingin war, either at home or abroad,
186 GENERAL HISTOBT OF YORESHIBE.
the county of Yorit to be inspected. The northern parts of the kingdom
were so exhausted that the King was compelled to recruit his forces from the
southern and western parts ; and on the ISth of August, 1318, he issued
orders from Nottingham, to every city and borough throughout England, to
raise the number of men appointed in the respective summonses ; and to have
them well armed and accoutred, to resist the threatened invasion of the
Scots.'i^ The campaign not having commenced tiU the following spring, the
King issued orders early in the year for arming the population of the whole
kingdom, between the ages of 30 and 60.
By the King's order, according to Stowe, the Clerks of the Exchequer set
out for York, on the 15th of October, 1819, with the Domesday Book and
other records, which, with provision, laded twenty-one carts. The Judges of
the King's Bench came at the same time, and continued to transact the
business of the court in the city of York for six months.f
In 1318, the whole of the north of England, to the middle of Yorkshire,
was ravaged with fire and sword, by an army of Scottish marauders, under
the command of Bruce's fiEunous Generals, — ^Thomas Bandolph, Earl of
Murray, and Sir James Douglas ; and having burned the towns of North-
allerton, Boroughbridge, Knaresborough, Skipton, and Scarborough, and
at hiB Dim expense, for a stated time ; generally 40 days in the year; and this sendee
being aocomplished, the tenant could either return home, or if he or his followers alter-
wards continued to serve with the army, they were paid by the King. The quantity of
land, or sum of money, which constituted a Koight's fee, appears to haye yaried at
different periods. In the reigns of Heniy U., and Edward II., a Knight's fee was stated
at £20 per annum ; and the number of KnighVs fees in the kingdom was estimated at
60,000. Qroie*$ MU, Aniiq^ voU i., p, 4. A tenant who had several Knight's fees, might
discharge them by able substitutes. The posse comitatus included every free man
between the ages of 15 and 60. The chief duty of this body being to preserve peace,
under the command of the Sheriff, they differed from the feudal troops, inasmuch as
they were not liable to be called out, except in ease of internal oommotion, or actual
invasion: on such oocasions they could legally be marched out of their respective
counties, but in no case could they be sent to do military duty out of the kingdom.
Besides these means of raising armies, under the authority of the royal prerogatiye, on
extraordinary occasions, districts, cities, burghs, and eyen particular persons, were
obliged to find men, horses, and arms, at the will and pleasure of his sovereign. After
the 16th of Edward m. (1843), new forms and modes of raising men were adopted.
The monarchs contracted with their nobility and gentry to find them soldidrs, at certain
wages, and their parliaments supplied them with the means.
* The comparative proportion of men raised in different towns in the neighbourhood
may be seen in the following Hst: — York, 100 foot; Beverley, 80; Scarborough, 30;
Hull, 20; Grimsby, 20; Doncaster, 10; Stamford, 15; and Derby, 10.
f Byley, p. 564.
aEKBBAI. HISTORY OF T0RK8HIBB. 137
imposed a contributian of 1,000 marks upon the inhabitants of Ripon, they
retomed to Scotland, laden with much plunder, and carrying with them a
great number of prisoners. This calamity was followed next year by a
famine and pestilent disease, which carried off great numbers of the inhabi-
tants left in the plundered districts. In 13S0, the army raised by Edward
being at length organised, that monarch marched into the north at the head
of it, and laid siege to the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed ; but he had scarcely
sat down before that place, when Randolph, the Scottish General, instead of
attacking the King at Berwick, led his forces across the Solway, and laid the
country waste with fire and sword, even to the gates of York ; and after
burning the suburbs of the city, returned northwards with their booty.
William de Melton, at that tune Archbishop, indignant at the insult thus
offered to the city, took up arms, and hastily raised an army, composed of
priests, canons, monks, husbandmen, artificers, and others, to the number
of 10,000 men; and with this undisciplined band, he pursued the Scots,
and imfortunately overtook them at Myton-upon-Swale, three miles east of
Boroughbridge; where, with more zeal than skill, he attacked them on the
12th of October (1320).
"These able soldiers," says Holinshed, "had, as experienced commanders,
the Archbishop, and Bishop of Ely, being the leaders of these warlike troops ;
much fitter to pray for the success of a battle, than to fight it** Aware of
the pursuit, the Scots laid an ambuscade, and waited for the Archbishop*s
army, in the order of battle. According to the old chronicler, the scene of
the battle was the " Myton meadow, near the Swale water." This would then
be a large open field, now enclosed, and known by the name of "The Ings,"
and extends about a mile along the east bank of the Swale, before its junction
with the Ure, and an equal distance down the north bank of the Ouse.
Our idea of the battle," writes the editor of the Battle Fields of Yorkshirey
is, that the English were advancing, over the open field, towards the Swale,
enclosed on two sides by rivers, when the Scots, 'among the hay kookes
bushed,* on the higher ground to the north, above, and about the village of
Myton, setting fire to the hay, rushed suddenly, under cover of the smoke,
upon their unprepared antagonists, cooped up in a bad situation, and routed
them with little loss on their own side ; while that of the English amounted
to between 8,000 and 4,000, of which 2,000 were drowned, most probably in
the waters of the Ouse, opposite the village of Dunsforth, where the river is
both wide and deep." It is however certain, that after a feeble resistance,
the English were defeated^ with the loss just stated, including Nicholas
Fleming, who was then for the seventh time Mayor of York.
T
138 OXKZRAL HI8T0BT Of TO&S0HIB2.
In this batde such a number of ecdedasticsi in fiiU canonicals, fell (SOOi
according to Dr. Lingard), that it was, says Buchanan, for a long time called
the White BatUe; and it is sportivelj recorded bj the Scottish writers, under
the tide of the Chapter of Mytan (or Mitton, as thej erroneously call it).
The Archbishop himself had a very narrow escape, and had business enough
to fill up the vacancies in the church, on his return. The body of the Mayor
of YorlE was honourably interred in the parish church of St. Wilfirid, at York,
and the Archbishop granted an indulgence of forty days to all the citizen^
who, being truly penitent, should approach the sacraments, and say a Pater-
noster and Aye-Maria for the repose of his soul. A chantiy was also founded
for him in the same church. The Scots returned home without further
molestation, but with a large increase of spoil ; and Edward, as soon as he
heard of the event, raised the siege of Berwick, and hastily retired to York.
The King had now another great &vourite, in the person of Hugh de
Spencer, a man of considerable exterior accomplishments, but destitute of aH
prudence and moderation. His rapacity led to a combination of the nobles
against him, in Iddl, and Edward was compelled to bani^ both him and
his father beyond the sea. In a short time, the King found himself in a
situation to bid defiance to his enemies, and the Spencers were recalled.
Again the factious, turbulent, but powerful Earl of Lancaster headed a con-
federacy of the nobles, and raised an army to oppose the King ; but having
entered into an alliance with Bruce, King of Scotland, nuiny of the English
deserted him, and joined the standard of Edward. Lancaster, with the Earl
of Hereford and a few other noblemen, having &iled in an attempt to secure
a position at Burton-upon-Trent, hastily retreated northward, to join the
succours which were expected from Scotland. On the 16th of March, 18dl,
he arrived at Boroughbridge, where he fotmd Sir Andrew Haida, Governor
of Carlisle, and Warden of the Western Marches, and Sir Simon Ward,
Sheriff of Yorkshire, with a strong force, ready to bar his further progress.
Harcla, who had received the honour of Knighthood at the hand of Lancaster,
was now tempted to prove his gratitude to him, at the expense of his duty
to his Sovereign. Lancaster promised to confer upon him one of the five
Earldoms then in his possession, if he (Harcla) would help him with the forces
under his command, to remove the Spencers; but the Warden of the Marches
was incorruptible; and the Earl had nothing left but to turn back, and fight
the King's army, which was in pursuit of him, or force the passage of the
river before it came up; and he chose the latter of these alternatives. The
river, which is here about sixty yards wide, was at that time traversed by a
wooden bridge, the small town of Boroughbridge standing on the south side.
6SNERAL mSTORT OF YOBKBHIBE. 139
The Eaii's an^rs first b^in the fight, but were repeUed by the moi-e potent
disohaige of their adyersaries. The m6n-a^a^ns next attempted to force the
passage of the river» and the Earl of Hereford was slain by the thrust of a
lance below his armour, through a chink in the bridge, by a Welsh soldier,
who had hid himself beneath. Sir William Sulley and Sir Roger Bemefield
were slain, and Sir Roger Clifford was wounded on the head. During this
attack, Lancaster had led a part of his army to a ford, a little lower down;
but hare again he was repeiled by a shower of arrows from the opposite bank.
Seeiiig all his attempts to pass the river by force baffled, his courage entirely
Caokd him, and he retired into a chapel, where he was seized, stripped of his
armour, and treated with great indignity. The rest of his party were dis-
persed, and a great many of them taken. Lancaster was conveyed to York,
wherehewasinsulted, pelted with dirt, and called in derision "King Arthur."
fie was then imprisoned in the castle of Pontefinaet, in a dungeon, in a
new tower, which he himself had recently made, and the only entrance to
which was by a trap-door in the floor of the turret. Shortly afterwards the
King being at Pontefiract, the Earl was arraigned, in the hall of the castle,
befixre a small number of peers, among whom were the Spencers, his mortal
enemfflit. As might have been expected, he was condemned, and sentenced
to be hanged, drawn, and quartered; but through respect for his royal blood,
the punishment was changed to decapitation ; and the sentence was immedi«
afeely put into ezecation. The fiite of Lancaster involved that of many others.
Never since the Conquest had such havoc been made among the ancient
nobility; never since then had the scaffold been drenched with so much
noble blood as on this occasion. No less than ninety-five Barons and Knights
were taken prisoners, and afterwards tried for high treason. The Lords
Warren de Lisle, William Touchet, Thomas Mandute, Fitz William the
yonnger, William Cheney, and Henry de Bradbum, were executed at Ponte-
fraet; and the Lords Clifford, Mowbray, and Deynville, were executed at
York, and their bodies hung in chains.
The wooden bridge, upon which the fate of the Lancaster &ction was de-
cided, has since been succeeded by a handsome one of stone. The ground
oeeapied by the forces of Harcla and Ward, is now covered with houses,
timber, and coal yards ; and partly by a short canal, belonging to the river
Ure navigation. At a place called 2^ Old Banks, below ^e bridge, many
fingments of arms and armour were found in 1793, when the embankments
of the river were formed. These were probably relics of this battle.
In 1899, the King, after having conciliated the Barons, held another Par-
bament in York, in winch the. decree, made in the preceding year in London,
140 QENEBAL HISTORY OF T0BK8HIBE.
for alienating their estates, was reversed, and the elder Spencer created Earl
of Winchester. At this Parliament the several ordinances of the Barons,
made at different times, were examined, and such of them as were confirmed,
were, h j the King's order, directed to be called statutes ; the clergy of the
province of Yoik granted the King a subsidy of fourpence in each mark;
Robert Baldock was made Lord Chancellor; and Edward, the King's eldest
son, was created Prince of Wales, and Duke of Aquitain. After the dissolu-
tion of this Parliament, Edward raised an immense army to oppose Robert
Bruce, who was then desolating the English border ; and in the month of
August, in the same year, at the head of this army, he marched into Scot-
land ; and though the enemy had destroyed all the forage, he penetrated as
far as Edinburgh, into this region of total &mine. Being obliged to retire
for want of provisions, this mighty host retreated to England, and so ravenous
were the soldiers, after their late abstinence, that no less than 16,000 of them
died of repletion. Bruce, aware of the retreat of the English, closely fdlowed
them, and then he became the aggressor. In oider to end the war, he con-
ceived the bold design of capturing the person of the King ; and with that
intention, he came up with the English army, encamped upon an advanta-
geous piece of ground, near Byland Abbey, about fourteen miles from York,
which Edward had made his head quarters, while he refreshed and recruited
iiis men. The English were posted on the Abbey bank — a high ridge of
land, extending from Cambe Hill, by Oldstead, to the village of Wass— a
most favourable position. Bruce, who well knew how to encounter great
obstacles in the field, sent his two associates in arms, Randolph and Douglas,
to storm the narrow pass, which led to the top of the hill ; whilst he turned
the English position, by sending a body of BQghlanders to scale the steep
cliff, and thus surprised the enemy, by attacking them at once in Hank
and rear.
After a short fight the English were routed, and fled, leaving their strong
position, and much spoil in the hands of the victors. Edward, who was at
dinner in the Abbey when the battle began, made his escape to York with
difficulty, but he was indebted for his safety to the swiftness of his horse.
He left his privy seal, plate, money, and other treasures, behind him. The
fugitives were chased towards York by Walter Stewart, before which city, it
is said, he halted until the evening, with only 500 men-at-arms, to see if the
enemy would come out to the encounter. There is no record of the number
slain in this fight, but several of the nobility were taken prisoners, among
whom were John de Bretagne and Henry de Sully. The Scottish army re-
turned unmolested, and laden with spoil Byland Abbey, so cloae to the
aSNERAL HianOBT OF Y0RK8HIBE. 141
scene of conflict» was no doubt plimdered of all that was worth carrying
away ; but it was not destroyed, nor its inmates slaughtered, as were those
of Dryburgh and Mekose by the English in their late incursion.
According to the expression of the old chronicle, the battle of Byland
Abbey took place ''fifteen days after Michaelmas, 1323." Sir Andrew
Havcla, now Earl of Carlisle, was accused of having entered into a traitorous
oorrespondence with the Scottish King, and of supineness and wilful inaction,
in not intecTupting the march of the Scots, and thus preventing them pursuing
the retreat of Edward ; and with all the savage barbarity of the times, he
was tried, condemned, and executed. But even the guilt of that unfortunate
nobleman (and that is doubtful) could not shift the blame of the shameful
defeat and infamous flight of the English, their army being much more
numerous than that of the Scots. After this batde a truce was agreed upon
between the two nations, to continue lor the space of thirteen years.
Edward was shortly after deposed and imprisoned by the direction of Mor-
timer, the paramour of his Queen, Isabella ; and he was finally murdered
with unparalleled cruelty. His son, then but fourteen years old, was crowned
in 13d7, under the title of Edward HI. ; and his reign, which lasted for
£^ years and a few months, shines with much lustre in the annals of
.England, and constitutes a splendid period in the history of York. In the
first year of his reign, the youthful King ordered his whole army to rendez-
vous ia York, in order to oppose the Scots, who, with two powerful armies,
including 30,000 light cavalry, under the conduct of the distinguished Gene-
rals, Randolph and Douglas, were ravaging the northern part of the kingdom.
'While the King lay at York, preparing for the expedition, he was joined by
John, Lord Beaiunont, of Hainault, and several other knights and gentlemen,
who, with his retinue, composed a band of 500, or, according to Enightson,
of 3000 men. Most of these foreigners were lodged in the suburbs, but to
Zx>rd John himself, the King assigned the monastery of White Monks in the
dty. The King, with the Queen-mother, made their abode at the monastery
ot the Friars Minors. For six weeks Edward held his court at York, whilst
an anny of 60,000 men was being raised. On Trinity Sunday the King gave
a splendid entertainment at the monasteiy. To his usual retinue of 500
Knights, he added 60 more; and the Queen-mother had in her suite 60
ladies of the highest rank and greatest beauty in England.
During the festivitiea a contest arose between the Hainaulters and a body
of Lincolnshire archers, who lodged with thooi in the suburbs; and hostilities
once begun, abettors successively came in on both sides, till nearly 8000 of the
archers were collected. Many of the foreigners were slain, and the rest were
143 GENERAL HI8T0BY OF TOBXSHIBB.
obliged to retire. During the fray part of the city took fire, and it was with
difficulty that the flames were subdued. On the fidlowing night the foreignero,
determined on revenge, headed by their officers, fell upon the Linoolnfihire
and Northamptonshire archers, and slew about 800 of them. This rash act
induced the English to combine, to the number of 6000, in the homble reso-
lution of sacrificing the whole of the Hainaulters ; but this catastrophe was
arrested, and the tranquillity of the city restored by the firmness and wise
precautions of the Eiog.* The Scots being informed of the warlike prepa-
rations of Edward, sent ambassadors to York to negodate a treaty of peace ;
upon the failure of which, Edward advanced against them with his anny, in
all the martial pomp of those chivalrous times. After a dose pursuit the
enemy was at last overtaken and surrounded at Stanhope Park, and would
have surrendered but for the treachery of Lord Mortimer, who opened a road
for their escape. The Scots then withdrew their forces, but Douglas as-
saulted the English camp at night, and nearly succeeded in killing the King.
On the failure of this attempt the Scots, after doing what mischief they
could, retreated within their own territories. Edward, excessively chagrined
at the escape of an enemy whom he had so thoroughly in his power, returned
to York, and afterwards to London. Lord John Beaumont, upon receiving
£14,000. — ^the sum for which he and his foreign soldiers had been engaged,
returned to the continent ; and shortly afterwards a marriage was n^gociated
between his niece, Philippa, the most celebrated beauty of the age, and the
young King of England. This marriage was solemnized in the Cathedral
of York, by the Archbishop of that province, and the Bishop of Ely, on the
d4th of Januaiy, 1828, it being the Sunday before the eve of the festival of
the Conversion of St. Paul.
The court was then at York, and for three weeks the feastings, jousts,
tournaments, maskings, revds, interludes, &c., were continued without inter-
mission. " Upon these happy nuptials," says Froissart, " the whole kingdom
teemed with joy.** But jealousies again arose between the Hainault soldieiy,
which formed part of the retinue of Beaumont, and the English; and the
former took advantage of this carnival to treat the latter with outrage and
violence. The foreigners not only set fire to the suburbs of the dty, by
which a whole parish was nearly destroyed, but they vidently assaulted
several of the wives, daughters, and maid servants of the inhabitants. The
dtizens, enraged by these proceedings, armed themsdves, and challenged
the Hainaulters to battle. In this desperate contest, which took plaoe in the
• Ldand'8 Ck>lL voL L, p. 307. ^Tmsr, toL iv., p. 39d.
OSKESAL mSTOBT OF T0RX8HIBS. 148
Btieei, called Watlingate (now Lawrence Street), no less than 697 of the
fine^eiB, and 94d Englishmen, were slain, or drowned in the Ouse.
In 188d, Edward summoned another Parliament to this city ; and two
years afterwards^ the King, on his march to Scotland, stayed, and kept his
Christmas here. On his return from that country, he held another Parlia-
ment in this city, to which Baliol, whose cause he had emhraced, in
opposition to David Bruce, was summoned to attend him ; hut Baliol, not
daring to trust himself, for fear of heing seized hy his Barons on his journey,
sent the Lords Beaumont and Montecute to excuse him, and afterwards met
the King at Newcastle. In 1885, Edward took up his residence at the
monasteiy of the Holy Trinity, in this city, and held a council, in which the
Bishop of Duiham, then Chancellor, resigned the great seal into his hands,
and he immediately gave it up to the Archhishop of Canterbury, who took
the usual oa^ of office in the presence of the council, and on the same day
proceeded to the " church of the Blessed Mary,'* where he affixed it to several
deeds. It appears in Cotton's Collections, that in this, and in the preceding
reign, there were no less than twelve Parliaments assembled in York. During
the wars in France, in which Edward and his renowned son, the Black
Prinoe (so called from the colour of his armour), gained the memorable
victories of Crecy and Poictiers, the Scots formed a resolution, suggested,
most probably, by the French monarch, to invade and ravage the northern
eoonties of England during Edward's absence. Accordingly, in 1846, David
Brace, with an army of 86,000 men, well armed and trained, entered by the
eastern marches, and destroyed the country vnth fire and sword as far as
York; and actually set fire to the suburbs, and then retired to a short
distance from that city. Philippa, the heroic consort of King Edward, who
then kept her court at York, issued peremptory orders to arm the population,
vrfaether laity or clergy; which was soon accomplished under the active
saperintendenee of Archbishop William de la Zouch, Lord Percy, and others.
A gallant army vms soon assembled before the gates of York, and the Queen
headed it in person. The second division was commanded by the Archbishop,
in which were found all the clergy of the diocese, who were able to bear
anns. The two armies met at a place called Nevil's Cross, in the county
of Duiham, on the 17th of October, in the same year ; and though the Scots
were unprepared for immediate action, yet they thought it an easy matter to
conquer an army oi clerks and citizens, commanded by a woman and a priest.
Bat tfaej were miserably deceived. The English, fighting for their altars
and their homes, entered the battle with a fuU resolution not to survive the
loss of their freedom. The carnage of that day was dreadful. The English
144 OENERiLL HISTOBT OF T0BE8HIBE.
gained a signal victoiy ; David Bruce was taken prisoner ; about 100 of the
choicest Knights in Scotland lost their lives ; and 20,000 men perished in
the contest'!' The English lost 4,000 private men, and five Esquires. After
the battle, the victorious Queen returned to York in triumph ; and having
seen the citj strongly fortified, and then leaving the Lords Percy and Neville
to the government of the north, she returned to London, carrying her royal
prisoner in her train. William de Hatfield, the second son of Edward and
FhiLippa, died in his infancy in York, and was buried in the Cathedral.
This reign was unhappily distinguished by a pestilence, called the *' black
death," which was uncommonly fatal and extensive. It broke out in ld49,t
and raged at York for nine weeks, and considerably diminished the popula-
tion. It took a wider range, and proved more destructive than any calamily
of that nature known in the axmals of maokind. Its effects continued, in
some degree, even to the time that Walsingham wrote, which was about
seventy years afterwards. In the last year of this long and eventful reign,
the Parliament granted the King a capitation tax of 4d. fix>m every lay
person of either sex, in the kingdom, above fourteen years of age; and 12d.
from each beneficed clergyman. The only persons exempted from it» were
the four mendicant orders of religious, and real known b^^ars. From the
accounts of the produce of this tax, the entire population has been estimated.
The city of London was rated at 35,000 souls; Yorky at 11,000; Bristol,
9,000; Coventry and Plymouth, each 7,000; Norwich, 6,000; Lincohi,
5,000; Lynn, 5,000; Colchester, 4,600; Beverley, Oxford, and Newcastie-
upon-Tyne, each 4,000 ; Ely, Canterbury, and Bury, in Suffolk, each 3,500 ;
Gloucester, Leicester, and Shrewsbury, each 3,000 ; and Kitiffston-vponrHuU,
fiflOO.l Thus England had but two towns containing a population of more
than 10,000 souls; six only with a population exceeding 5,000; and but
eighteen above 3,000.
Richard IE., grandson to Henry m., was but eleven years old when he
came to the throne. The late King had left the kingdom involved in many
dangerous and expensive wars, which demanded large and constant supplies.
The capitation, or poll tax, levied at the close of the last reign, led the way
to others in rapid succession. The ultimate consequence was an insurrection
of the lower classes of the people ; occasioned, perhaps, not so much from the
nature of the tax itself, as from the brutal insults attending its colleotion. It
began in Essex, and the rebels were headed by a profligate priest, who had
• Knighton's Coll. 2590. f Walsingham, p. 118.
X M.S. penes me, calculated f^oza ti^^ Subsidy Boll of 51st £dwiid lU.
0£N£BAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 145
assumed the name of Jack Straw. The men of Kent, who were not long
behind their neighbours in Essex, placed themselves under the leadership of
a blacksmith, named Wat Tyler, or, according to some, a Kentish tyler,
named Walter. The number of the rebels soon amounted to 100,000 men,
and the discontent became general in the southern and midland counties.
The flame of rebellion soon spread from the southern coast of Kent, to the
right bank of the Humber ; on the southern coast it reached as far as Win-
chester; and on the eastern, to Beverley and Scarborough.
Tyler, at the head of a Isurge body of men, marched into London, and at
Smithfield he was met by the King, who invited him to a conference, under
a prrtence of hearing and redressing his grievances. Tyler, ordering his
companions to retire, presented himself before the King, and accordingly
began the conference. Whilst stating his complaints, and making his
demands, he now and then lifted up his sword in a menacing manner ; and
at length he laid his hand on the bridle of his Sovereign, which insolence so
raised the indignation of William Walworth, Mayor of London, who was
attending on the King, that he stunned Tyler with a blow of the mace, and
Robert Standish, one of the King's Esquires, riding up, dispatched him witli
his sword. The rebels seeing their leader fall, bent their bows to tako
revenge, when Kichard, though not yet quite sixteen years of age, appealing
to them, told them that he would be their leader, and that they should have
whatever they desired. The mob followed the King into the fields at Isling-
ton, and there he granted to them a charter, which he soon after revoked in
Parliament
The Scots having entered Northumberland, and taken three castles in
the Marches, Richard, in 1885, set out from the south to oppose them, at
the head of 80,000 men. The progress of the King was arrested at York, by
an unfortonate circumstance, which cast a gloom over the seqmel of the expe-
dition. In the neighbourhood of the city (near Bishopthorpe), Lord Ralph
Stafford, eldest son of the Earl of Stafford, one of the royal favourites, was
basely assassinated by the hand of Sir John Holland. The father and
relatiTes of the slain loudly demanded justice ; and Richard confiscated the
property of the assassin, and threatened him with the gallows, if he ever left
the Sanctuary of St John of Beverley, where he had taken refuge.
In 1889, King Richard visited York, for the purpose of adjusting a disa-
greemodt between the ecclesiastical and civil authorities ; and during this
visit he took his sword from his side, and gave it to be borne before William
de Selby, the mayor, and his successors, whom he dignified with the title of
Lord Mayor, which honour has ever since been retained, and is possessed by
u
146 GENERAL HISTORT OF TORSSBIRt!.
no other city except those of London and Dablin. Richard afterwards visited
York seyeral times, and granted the citizens some valoable charters, immu-
nities, and privileges.
In the year 1390 — 1, a contagious disease, of the nature of a plague, raged
with great violence throughout England ; of which malady thiere fell a sacrifice
to it, in the city of York alone, about 12,000 souls. In 1393, Richard, being
displeased with the citizens of London, the courts of Kings's Bench and
Chancery were again removed to York, but they remained here only from
Midsummer to Christmas. Thomas Arundel, Archbishop of the diocese, was
then Lord Chancellor. In the same year the King presented the first mace
to the city, to be carried before the Lord Mayor, and a cap of maintenance
to the sword bearer ;* and in 1896, the same monarch erected the city of
York into a distinct county of itself, and appointed two SherifiBs, in lieu of
the three Bailiffs that previously formed a part of the corporation. In this
reign, Edmund Plantagenet, surnamed De Langley, the fifth son of Edward
m. and Queen Fhilippa, was created the first Duke of York.
In the year 1393, a quarrel arose between Henry Bohngbroke, Eail of
Hereford (afterwards Duke of Lancaster, and King Henry IV.), and Thomas
Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, who had accused each other of treason. Richard,
by the advice of his council, sent these two noblemen into exile, the first
for six years, and the other for life. This arbitrary procedure rendered the
Eong odious to his subjects in general, and especially to the discontented
Barons. In 1399, Bolingbroke, then Duke of Lancaster, finding that the
rebellious nobles were ready to dispossess Richard of the crown, sailed from
France with only three ships, attended by about sixty gentlemen and their
servants, and landed at Ravenspur, or Ravenspume, in Holdemess, on the
4th of July, where he was joined by Lords Willoughby, Ross, Darcy, and
Beaumont, with a great number of the gentry and commonalty. At Doncaster,
the Duke was joined by the Earls of Northumberland and Westmorland,
two of the most powerful Banms in England, and a great number of people
from all parts of the countiy. The King himself during these commotions
was in Ireland, and soon after he landed in England, his army deserted him,
and he himself was betrayed, apprehended, and sent to the tower, and Boling-
broke proclaimed King. Richard was soon after deposed by the two Houses of
• The C€^ of MaifiUfumee, which is stiSl worn by the sword bearer on all atate oooa-
dons in the dtj of York, is traditionally the identical hat of King Bichard IL, who,
upon some festive occasion, placed it upon the head of the nearest person, who happened
to be the Lord Mayor's Esquire. It was originally crimson yelvet, edged with gold ; bat
it is now very mndi fiuied, and has only been held together by repeated re-linings.
)
GENERAL HISTOBT OF TORESHIBE. I4t
Parlkment, and sent to Pontefract Castle, where he died or was murdered.
Some historians assert that he was there inhumanly starved to death; whilst
others inform us that Sir Piers Exton, with eight ruffians, entered his
chamber, disarmed and attempted to lay hold of him, but that he, perceiving
their deadly erradd, so furiously attacked them, that he slew four of them
ivith a weapon which he had seized from the first who entered ; and that
whilst combating with the rest of the murderers, Sir Piers mounted a chair
bdiind him, and cut him down with a pole-axe> Scrope, Archbishop of York
at that time, mentions his death by htmger, but adds ut vulgwriter dieUur.
When preparing for his expedition to Ireland, Richard made his will, in
which he was very particular in ordering the ceremonials of his funeral, and
for which purpose he allotted JB4,0O0.f Within ten months the unhappy
monarch was deposed, murdered, and buried without pomp. Such is the
mutability of human greatness.
Soon after Henry Bolingbroke ascended the throne of England, under the
tide of Henry IV., Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who had lost a
brother and son in the battle of Shrewsbury ; Richard Scrope, Archbishop
of Toik, whose brother Henry, the King had beheaded ; and Thomas, Lord
Mowbray, Earl Marshal of England, whose father died in exile, imited with
Lfords Falconberge, Bardolf, Hastings, and others, in a conspiracy to depose
him. Through the impatience of the Archbishop the plot was disclosed.
Scrope framed several impeachments against the King, which he caused to
be fixed against the doors of the churches of his own diocese, and sent them
in the form of a circular into other counties, inviting the people to take up
arms to reform abuses. Henry was charged by the conspirators with perjury,
rd>eilion, usurpation, the murder of his sovereign (Richard IE.), irreUgion,
extortion, and the illegal execution of many clergymen and gentlemen.^
The Archbishop preached a sermon to three congregations in his own Cathe-
dral, and raised 30,000 men suddenly to arms, who joined his standard (on
which was painted the five wounds of our Saviour) at Shipton-on-the-moor,
a few miles from York. To put down this rebellion, the King sent an army
of 80,000 men into Yorkshire, imder the command of the Earl of Westmor-
land and the Prince John. The Archbishop's forces were advantageously
encamped on the forest of Qaltres, without the gates of the city, when the
King's army arrived at York. Westmorland being weaker than the insurgents,
did not consider it prudent to attack them ; and having a£fected to fieivour
• Booihroyd's Hist Pontefract, p. 114. f Bymer's Fcodera, torn, viii, p. 75.
X Ang. Sax., 862.
148 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
their Tiews, he, by means of flattery and intrigue, obtained an interview
with the Prelate. The meeting took place in sight of both armies, the
Archbishop being attended by the Earl Marshal, and the Generals shook
hands, and reciprocated other tokens of reconciliation and friendship. The
Archbishop declared that he had come not to make war bat peace, and
particularized the different grievances which he thought it necessary to
redress for the prosperity of the kingdom. The wily Earl, by some specious
pretences and promises, induced the Archbishop to dismiss his forces to their
respective homes, which was no sooner done, then the Prelate and the Earl
Marshal were arrested for high treason, and their lives paid the forfeit of
their precipitancy and misplaced confldence. They were carried prisoners to
Pontefiract, where the King was, who ordered them to follow the court to the
primatical Palace of Bishopthorpe. There the King commanded Chief
Justice Gascoigne to pronounce on them sentence of death ; but that upright
and inflexible Judge refused, on the plea that the laws gave him no jurisdic-
tion over the life of a Prelate, and that both he and the Earl had a right to
be tried by their Peers.* The King, however, found a more obsequious
agent in a Knight named Fulthorpe, who, at the King's command^ vrithout
indictment or trial, condemned them, with Sir John Lamplugh, Sir Robert
Plumpton, and several others, to be beheaded. Scrope immediately ex-
claimed, *< The just and true God knows that I never intended evil against
the power of King Henry ; and I beg you to pray that my death may not be
revenged upon him or his friends." On the 8th of June, 1405, the Arch-
bishop suffered with great firmness in a field between York and Bishop-
thorpe ; his body was interred in the Cathedral, and his head was fixed on
a pole and placed on the city walls, where it long remained a spectacle for
vulgar eyes, and a standing jest for the enemies of religion.f Being
regarded in the light of a martyr, his tomb was visited by so many devotees
as to attract the attention and interference of the King. The Earl Marshal's
body was buried also in the Cathedral, and his head was fixed on a spike,
• It la related of this upright Judge, that on another occasion, one of the associates of
the King's eldest son (Henry, the eccentric " Prince Hal" of Shakespeare's " King Henry
the Fourth"), had been arraigned before him for felony. The Prince imperiously re-
quired the release of the prisoner, and when that was refused, drew his sword on the
Judge. Bat Qascoigne cooUy ordered him into confinement in the prison of the King's
Bench ; and the young Henry had the good sense to submit to the punishment. When
the incident was related to his father, he is said to have exclaimed, *' Happy the
monarch who possesses a Judge so resolute in the discharge of his duty, and a son so
willing to yield to the authority of the law."
f Walsingham.
GENERAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE. 149
and exhibited on the walls of the city, Henry then issued orders from
Pontefinict for the seizure of all the liberties and priyileges of the city of
York ; many of the adherents of the Archbishop were tried and executed,
bnt a general pardon, dated at Ripon, was soon after published, and York
was reinstated in the enjoyment of its former privileges. Thus did the
citizens testify their affection and gratitude for their royal benefactor,
Richard II., eren after his death. In the second year of this reign (1401)
Henry visited York, on his return from Scotland, and in that city witnessed
a tournament between two English and two foreign Knights ; the foreigners
proved the victors, and the King was so pleased with the combat, that he
gave Sir John Cornwall, one of the combatants, his sister in marriage.
In 1408, the Earl of Northumberland and Lord Bardolph, who, after the
defeat of the insurrection in 1406, had retired into Scotland, raised a powerful
force, and again appeared in arms agcdnst the King. Sir Thomas Eokeby,
Sheriff of Yorkshire, assembled the posse camitatus to oppose the Earl, who
was desolating the country as he passed along. The Sheriff took his post at
Grimbald Bridge, near Enaresborough, but the Earl seeing the advantage of
his position, made no attempt to force the passage, but turned aside, and
directed his course towards Wetherby, closely pursued by the Sheriff. From
Wetherby the rebeb turned to Tadcaster, and finally both parties drew up
their forces for battle, on Bramham Moor, near Haslewood. The Sheriff
fought under the standard of St. George, and the Earl under the standard of
bis own arms. The fight was contested with great fury for the time it con-
tinued, and " victoiy fell to the Sheriff." Northumberland was slain on the
field, and Bardolph was taken prisoner, but so severely wounded that he died
shortly afterwards. The King soon after went to York, and finding several
of the EarVs adherents in the city, he completed his revenge by the execution
of many of them, and the confiscation of their estates.'!' The brave Rokeby
was then granted the manor of Spofforth (formerly belonging to the Earl),
with all its appurtenances, during his life.
The people of England generally were as yet only half civilized, and could
bear unmoved the recurrence of sights, as well as commit actions, which
ought to be esteemed most shocking to humanity. Who could bear, in our
more refined times, to behold the mangled limbs of a dismembered human
being publicly exposed to the gaze and insult of the multitude. Yet in the
14th and 1 5th centuries, such scenes were of common occurrence. The
body of the unfortunate Earl of Northumberland, after being slain in this
♦ Bymer, vol. riii., pp. 620, 630.
160 GENERAL HI8T0BT OF TOBKSHIBE.
batde, was quartered, and one part placed on a gate in London, another at
Lincoln, a third at Berwick-upon-Tweed, and the fourth at NewcaBtle-upon-
Tjne. The head, " full of eilver hoaiy hairs," was also sent to London, and
placed upon the bridge at the summit of a pole. We have just seen the head
of an Archbishop treated with a similar indignity at York. But a still more
horrible display took place during the same reign. The Earl of Huntingdon,
Sir Thomas Blount, and Sir Benedict Seley, were executed for treason, and
their quarters were carried to London, to 4>e publicly exhibited. The pro-
cession throc^h the city was headed by the Earl of Rutland carrying on a
pole the head of Lord Spencer, his brother-in-law, which he presented in
triumph to Henry, as a testimony of his loyalty.'*^ The people that were
capable of enduring such scenes as these with satisfaction and delight, could
have made but small progress towards civilization. Barbarism too might be
ashamed of the extremes to which the indulgence of private hatred and re-
venge was carried. To pounce on an enemy in the dark, and to cut out his
tongue, or deprive him of sight, was of such common occurrence, that an Act
of Parliament was passed for its suppression. Heniy IV., whose usurpation
was the source of innumerable woes to England; and who preserved his
crown by shedding torrents of noble blood, died on the 19th of March, 1418,
in the 46th year of his age, after a reign of 18 years. This monarch used
to say that so long as Englishmen have wealth, they are obedient ; but when
poor, they were liable to rebellion.
Henry V., the hero of Agincourt, being engaged during the chief part of
his reign in his wars with France, made only one visit to York, during
a progress to the north, in 1431. The Queen accompanied the Kmg, and
after a short stay at York, the royal pair proceeded to visit, and perform
their devotions at the venerable shrine of St John of Beverley, which had
been reported to have exuded blood all the day on which the battle of Agin-
court was fought, in 1415. During the stay of the King and Queen at York,
news arrived of the death of the Eing*8 brother, the Duke of Clarence, who
was slain in France.f
In the course of this reign, commands from the King were received by the
Lord Mayor, to seize and confiscate the estates and effects of divers persons,
who had been tried and executed for high treason; amongst whom was
Henry, Lord Scrope, of Masham, beheaded .at Southampton in 1418. His
head was ordered to be placed on the top of Micklegate Bar, York. The Earl
of Cambridge, who had married the heiress of the house of York, and Sir
• Home's England, vol. iii., p. 04. t Walaingham.
I
OBVERAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBE. 151
Thomas Gray, were executed with Lord Scrope. The latter was Lord
Treasurer of England, and had married Joan, Duchess Dowager of York.
The execution of these noblemen, we are told by Rapin, " was the first spark
of that fire which almost consumed, in process of time, the two houses of
Lancaster and York." Heniy died in France on the last day in August,
142d, and was buried near the shrine of Edward the Confessor, ia West-
minster Abbey.
During the sanguinary dispute-between these two houses, commonly desig*
sated the Wars of the Roses,* this city was occasionally connected with the
contending parties, and though not actually the seat of war, several of the
battles took place in the neighbourhood. All the foreign invasions this king-
dom had suffered, were never so destructive as this most unnatural intestine
war, between two fierce £Eu;tions, filled with such implacable hatred towards
each other, that nothing but the utter extirpation of one of the parties could
satiate this extraordinary thirst of power. During the space of thirty years,
irhich this cruel conflict lasted, twelve regular battles were fought within this
kingdom by Englishmen only ; above eighty royal Princes fell by each other's
swords ;f and the ancient nobility and gentry of the kingdom was almost
annihilated. No less than 100,000 of the commons sacrificed their lives in
these imnatural struggles.
Henry YI., a man better fitted for a monastic life than a regal one, was by
no means competent to guide the hehn of government at the turbulent period
in which he reigned. The liouse of York seized this opportunity to assert its
title to the throne, and after wading through an ocean of blood, at length
obtained it^ The incapacity of the King incited Richard Flantagenet, Duke
cf York, to urge his claim to the crown of England, in right of his mother,
through whom he descended from Philippa, only daughter of Lionel, Duke of
Clarence, second son of Edward m. ; whereas Henry YI. descended from
John of Ghent, or Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, third son of the same monarch.
The Duke's illustrious descent, immense possessions, and superior attain-
ments, gave him influence with the nobility, and procured him formidable
connections ; added to which, he stood plainly in succession before Henry.
• So called firom the different symbols of party which the people took. Lord Camp.
beU, in his Lives of the Lord ChaneeUors, voL i., p. 352, says, " The claims of the rival
houses being debated in the Temple Gardens, London, the red and white roses there
plucked became the opposing emblems." The partisans of the house of York chose
the White rose as their mark of distinction ; and those of the house of Lancaster the
Bed rose.
f Daniel Kennet's Hist of England.
153 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
In preseating his claim to the crown, he levied war against the King, and
without material loss, slew about 5,000 of the royal forces at St. Albans, on
the 22nd of May, 1454 ; amongst whom were the Duke of Somerset, the
Earl of Northumberland, the Earl of Stafford, eldest son of the Duke of
Buckingham, Lord Clifford, and many other persons of distinction. Alter
this battle, the Duke*s irresolution, and the heroism of Margaret of A^jou,
Queen of Henry VI., caused a suspension of hostilities. The leaders on both
sides assented to meet in London, and be roconciled. The Duke of York led
the Queen in solemn procession to St. Faults, and the chiefs of one party
marched hand' in hand with the chiefs of the other. It was a public dem(m*
stration of peace, with secret mutual distrust ; and an accident aroused the
slumbering strife. One of the King's retinue having insulted a retainer of
the Efiui of Warwick's, a partisan of the house of York, their companions
fought, and both parties in every county in the kingdom flew to arms. The
battle of Bloreheath, in Staffordshire, on the 2drd of September, 1459, was
won by the Lancastrians, the Duke of York being in Ireland, and the Eaiis
of Warwick, Marche (afterwards King Edward IV.), and Salisbury, with
many other noble adherents to the house of York, escaped to Oalais.>i' Par-
liament soon after declared the Duke of York, and all his partisans, guilty of
high treason, their estates confiscated, and they and their posterity incapable
of inheriting to the fourth generation. The Lancastrian party being now
triumphant, determined to extirpate the Yorkists ; and with this view, the
Earl of Wiltshire and Lord Scales were empowered to search out and punish
those who had borne arms for the Duke of York. But these severities had a
different effect from what was expected ; the discontents of the nation in-
creased ; the fugitive Lords returned from Calais, and erected the standard
of rebellion; and the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishops of London,
Lincoln, Ely, and Exeter, and a large number of the Barons, declared in
their fi&vour.
In the meanwhile, the King and Queen assembled their forces at Coventry.
The Earls of Marche and Warwick, with a numerous army, hastened from
London into the midland counties. The King's forces, commanded by the
Dukes of Somerset and Buckingham, advanced to meet them, and on the
10th of July, 1460, a decisive batde was fought on the banks of the Nene, in
the vicinity of Northampton. After an obstinate contest for five hours, the
King*s army was completely routed, the King himself taken prisoner, and
upwards of 10,000 soldiers slain, or drowned in attempting to cross the river.
• Hall's Chron., p. 174. HoUiashed, p. 1207.
GENERAL HISTOBT OP TOBXSBIRE. 153
The slaaghter fell cluefij on the nohiliiy and gentry, the common people
being spared by order of the Earls of Warwick and Marche ;* and the Duke
of Bockiii^ham, the Earl of Shiewsbuiyi the Lords Beaumont and Egremont,
with Sir William Lucy, and several other nobles and officers of distinction,
were left dead on the field. . Henry was brought a prisoner into Northamp-
ton, and conTeyed to London in a few days. The Queeni the young Prince
of Wales, and the Duke of Somerset, fled into the county of Durham, and
from thence to Wales, and afterwards into Scotland. After this success, the
Duke of York returned from Ireland, and arrived in London soon after the
meeting of the Parliament, which assembled on the 9th of October, and in
which the claims of the two houses of York and Lancaster were fuUy investi-
gated. The Duke's title being indefeasible, it was decreed that Heniy should
enjoy the crown during his life; and that Richard, Duke of York, should be
his successor, as the true and lawful heir of the monarchy; and in this
anangement Richard acquiesced.t Though the King appeared satisfied
with this decision, yet the Queen, a woman of masculine understanding,
seeing her son, the Prince of Wales, deprived, by this settlement, of his sue*
cession to the throne, was not so passive. She soon returned to England,
appealed to the Barons, and before the end of the year, drew together at
York, an army of dO,000 men,^ among whom were the Dukes of Exeter and
Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, and the Lords Clifford, Dacre, and
Neville. The Duke of York, hearing of the Queen's designs, but not knowing
that she had made such progress in raising en army, set out from London
on the Snd of December, with only about 6,000 men, giving orders to his
8on, the Earl of Marche, to levy forces in Wales, and then to join him ; and
leaving the King to the care of the Duke of Norfolk and the Earl of War*
wick. As the Duke of York advanced northward, he received the mortifying
intelligence of the Queen's success in levying troops; and at length being
arrived in the neighbourhood of Wakefield, he was informed that she was
approaching to give him battle. ' The Duke, resolving not to engage with
numbers so greatly disproportionate, retired to his castle at Sandal, to await
the arrival of the Earl of Marche. The Queen soon appeared before the walls
of Sandal Castle with the main body of her army, led by the Dukes of
Somefset and Exeter, provoking her enemy to battle, sometimes by menaces,
and at other times by insults and defiances, observing that it was disgraceful
to a man who aspired to a crown, to suffer himself to be shut up by a woman.
• Stowe, 400. f Cotton's Abridg. pp. 666, 667. Stowe, pp. 410, 411.
t Hall, p. 18d. HoQinshed, p. 1608.
X
1
u
154 QENEBAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBE.
Up to this fatal moment the Duke had always displayed great prudence in
his conduct, but this last taunt of the Queen was more than he could endure.
He quitted the castle, descended into the plain, and drew up his forces on the
common between the fortress and Wakefield bridge, caUed Wakefield Green,
on the 24th of December, 1460. The inequality of numbers was of itself
suffi(;ient to decide the victory, but the Queen having placed a body of troops
in ai^bush, under Lord Clifford and the Earl of Wiltshire, they fell upon the
rear of the Duke s army, while they were attacked by the main body in
front, and in less than half an hour the Duke himself was slain, and his
little army was almost annihilated. The Duke's body was soon recognized
amongst the slain, and his head was cut off by Margaret's orders, and placed
over Micklegate Bar, at York, with a paper crown upon it, in derision of his
pretended tiUe."^ His second son, the Earl of Rutland, who had only reached
his 18th year,f flying from the bloody scene, was overtaken on the bri^e of
Wakefield, by Lord Clifford, who, in revenge for his father, who had perished
at the battle of St. Albans, plunged his dagger into his breast, notwithstanding
his earnest entreaties to spare his life. The Duke of York, who was greatly
and justly lamented by his own parly, perished in the 60th year of his age,
and left three sons, Edward, George, and Eichard; and three daughters,
Anne, Elizabeth, and Margaret About 3000 Yorkists fell in this batde ;
and the Earl of Salisbuiy, Sir Richard Limbrick, Sir Ralph Stanley, and
several other persons of distinction were taken prisoners, and inunediately
decapitated by martial law at Pontefract, and their heads placed on Mickle-
gate Bar, at York.^
Rapin says, the only oversight of the Duke waa in shutting himself up in
a castle, instead of retreating to join his son. Edward, Earl of Marche, and
heir to the late Duke of York, was at Gloucester when he received the
melancholy intelligence of the fate of his feither and brother ; and having
completed his levies, hast^ied to interpose an army between the royalists
and the capital. Queen Margaret, after the success at Wakefield, advanced
towards London, with design to secure that city. The Eaod of Warwick,
havijig had hi^ ^rmy reinjbrced by a body of Londoners, and brangiHg King
Henry with him, set out firom London, and gave battle to the Queen's troops,
on the I7th of February, 1461, on Bamajda, or Baniet, Heathy near St
Alban9* Victory wsjs agion declared for this valiant Quean, and the Yorkiste
lost about 2,300 men.§ Night saved the Yorkists ftom uttev destruotion.
« Beauties of l^nglan^ and Wales. f H9 was Itom 17th May, 1443.
t HoUinsbMU « Hall.
eSNBRAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 165
By iliis Tictoiy Margai«t had the satisfaction to procure the liberty of the
captive King. Thoiigb the Queen had gained two battles, and released the
King, yet it was not in her power to enter London, for her soldiers were
principaUy borderers, from both sides of the Tweed, accustomed to Uve by
r^ine, and had been allored to the royal standard by the promise of the
plunder of the country south of the Trent, and no entreaties or prohibition
could prevail on them to desist from plundering the town of St. Albans, and
ike surrounding countxy. The Londoners therefore shut their gates against
an army which ihey imagined came on purpose to plunder the countiy. The
King and Queen then ftoceeded to York, and in the city or its vicinity,
wxm had 60,000 infantry and cavalry, commanded by the Duke of Somerset,
the Earl of Northumberland, Lord Clifford, and Sir Andrew Trollop.
But this success of the Lancastrian party lasted not long ; for soon after
the death of the Duke of York, at the battle of Wakefield, Edward, Earl of
Marche, his eldest son, now in his 20th year, waived the title of Duke of
York, on the 5th of March, 1401, and got himself proclaimed King, by the
title of Edward IV., at London, and in several other places. On that day
expired the reign of Henry VI., a Prince whose personal character commanded
the respect of his very enemies, and whose misfortunes still claim the sym-
pathy of the reader. Edward departed from London a few days afber he
had been proclaimed ; and having collected a force of nearly 50,000 men, he
encamped at Pontefract.
Edward having resolved to meet his competitors, and to decide the contest
by the law of arms, sent Lord Fitzwalter, with a detachment, to secure the
pass at Ferrybridge, on the river Aire. The Duke of Somerset began his
cyperataons by sending Lord Clifford, with a body of his own retainers, ** the
flower of Craven," to didodge the Yorkists from this post ; and the attack,
which took place at break of day, was so sudden and furious — ^the guards
being all aaleep, and not dreaming of an enemy so near them — that the
Iffidge was easily won, and the Yorkists lost their position. Lord Fitzwalter,"^
awakened by the noise, supposing it to arise from some quarrel amongst his
own soldiers, rushed out amongst them unarmed, and was slain ; and the Earl
of Salisbury at the same time shared a similar fate. Thus Clifford secured
the important pass of the river. Consternation now appeared to be becoming
general, when an act of heroism of the great Earl of Warwick, who was the
■o«k of Edward's army, restored order and confidence to his soldiers. " For
• Bapin calls the commander of this detachment, Lord Fitzwalter; but it appears
fh>m Dogdale, that there was not at that time any person of the name and title. —
BttTooage, i, p. 328, and ii., p. 285.
156 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
when tlie Earle of Warwike was informed hereof, like a man desperat on his
hacknie, and hasted puffing and blowing to King Edward, saieng, * Sir, I
praie God have mercie of their soules, which in the beginning of your enter-
prise have lost their Hves. And bicause I see no succors of the world, bat
in God, I remit the vengeance to him our Creator and Redeemer.* With
that he alighted downe, and slue his horse with his sword, saieng, ' Let him
flee that will; for surelie I will tany with him that will tany with me;'
and kissed the crosse of his sword, as it were for a vow to the promise.'**
This determination of the Earl to share the fate of the meanest soldier, in-
spired great confidence in the troops ; and to show the greater security, a
proclamation was issued, giving to eveiy one not well affected to the cause,
fuU liberty to retire ; but menacing the severest punishment to those who,
having remained, were discovered exhibiting any symptoms of cowardice in
the ensuing battle. Rewards and honours were offered to the comrade who
should slay him who was caught turning his back on the foe.
Edward lost no time in sending William NeviUe, Lord Faloonberg, with
a detachment to cross the Aire at Castleford, about four miles above Ferry-
bridge, with orders to attack those who guarded the lost position. Falconberg
executed his orders with such secrecy and promptitude, that he sudd^y
attacked Lord Clifford, who was at the head of a body of horse, which
was completely routed, and obliged to retreat in confusion towards the
main body of the army. In his retreat, Clifford, unawares, fell in with
another party of Yorkists, and having his helmet off, either from the effects
of heat or pain, a random arrrow pierced his throat, and he fell dead to the
ground. The brother of the Earl of Westmoiland also was slain in this
skirmish. Lord CUfford, who from his bloody deeds at Wakefield, was called
" the Butcher,'* was a fierce soldier; — indeed, it might with truth be said of
him, '* that a braver warrior never drew a sword, or one whose heart was
more tempered like the steel he wore." The post of Ferrybridge being thus
recovered, Edward passed with his whole army over the Aire, and marched,
by way of Sherbum, towards Tadcaster, in quest of the enemy* The two
armies confronted each other on the following day, Palm Sunday, the d9th
of March, 1461, on Towton Field, since called Palm Sunday Field, and im-
mediately prepared for that bloody and memorable battle, the issue of which
was to decide — ^what? " Something siirely of the highest importance to the
weU-being of the nation !'* writes the editor of the Battle Fields of Yorkshire,
" No ! only whether Henry or Edward was to be the ruler of England. And
* HoUinshed.
OEKEBAL HISTOBT OF TORKSHIBE. 157
iox a mere change of masters, the strength of the whole kingdom, its host and
bravest smis were mustered in arms, the worst passions of human nature
inflamed, and let loose in actions too horrible for recital. What madness of
mankind I what foUy ! what reckless waste of God*s great g^fts !'*
The site of this great battle is a long brow, or ridge of high ground,
extending between the Tillages of Towton and Saxton, the former village being
SLtoated about two miles nearly south of Tadcaster, and Saxton nearly two
miles south of Towton. From this eleyated ridge, now a well cultivated and
pleasant region, the prospect of the surrounding country is both extensive
and beautifuL Henry*s army» according to Hall,* consisted of 60,000 men,
commanded by the Duke of Somerset; and that of Edward amounted to
48,600, and was led by himself in person. The two wings of the Lancas-
trian army is supposed to have extended firom Giimston, beyond Towton, to
a sliest hollow in the high ground in the field, called North Acres, being
nearly two miles in length. The Yorkists occupied equally elevated ground
in their front; a level space lying between the armies, and the land gradually
declining in the rear of both. The great Earl of Warwick, one of the bravest
warriors in England, commanded the right wing of Edward*s army, Lord
Falconbeig the left, whilst the main body was led by Edward himself. Sir
John Yenloe and Sir John Denman, " two valiant commanders," had charge
of the rear guard. The contest was most obstinate. Edward issued orders
to his soldiers to give no quarter; and it will suffice to observe, that these
mighty hosts — ^both strong, both valiant, both commanded by leaders ani-
mated against each other by all the hatred that faction and deadly thirst for
revenge could supply, maintained the deadly struggle from seven in the
momii^ tiU dusk in the evening — ten mortal hours of carnage and slaughter.
"It is morning, yet the sun rises not! the air is gloomy and dark, thick
douds obscure the sky. A tempest is gathering — a storm is impending in
the heavens as weU as upon earth. Yet the wrath of man sleeps not. In
the armies all is active preparation for the work of death. The trumpets
have blown their loud notes of defiance. The impatient neigh and tramp of
the war horse is heard, mingled with the loud and haughty voices of the
commanders, exhorting their men to daring deeds, and vengeance for their
kindred already fiallen. The red rose and the white, the &tal colours of the
striving houses, are about to be bathed in blood. All are eager for the
combat, no slackness is found on either side. Falconberg confronts the
army of Henry with young Edward*s vanguard. They are nearly within an
* FoUo, 186.
158 GENERAL HISTOBT OF T0BE8HIBB.
arrow's flight of each other; and the archers are measuring the distance
with their eyes, knowing how far their feathered shafts can carry death.
Suddenly the south wind in a lt>a];ing gust, rushes down with a storm of
snow ; the flaky tempest drives full in the faces of the Lancastrians ; hlinds
them, so that they cannot see their enemies. Not unohserved hy the wily
Falconberg ; who instantly gives the command to his bold yeomanry, ' Each
archer from his bow send a flight arrow to the enemies* ranks, then back
retire three strides and stand.' Quick as hand can follow thought the order
is obeyed, for every mind sees advantage from the act. The bow strings
twang, the whistling shafts, long and light, swifter than the tempest, rush
against the distant foe ; who, ignorant of the stratagem, bend their bows and
ply the strings, until the quivers are exhausted. While the Yorkists in grim
quiet stand idle ; not one of their enemies' shafts has reached them. The
English Archer s boast, that he carried twelve enemies below his belt, is but
idle breath for the red rose faction. Not so for their foes, who seeing all
their enemies' efforts vain to reach them, advance, and with loud derisive
shouts, send their thick volley like lightning on their foes. Struck down
helplessly by hundreds with impunity ; volley after volley is sent into their
crowded ranks. Not only do the Yorkists empty their own quivers on the
unresisting foe, but gather their enemies' arrows from the Add, and send
them winged with death unto their former owners. Impatient of the severe
and deadly shower, Northumberland, Somerset, and Trollop, urge on their
men to close combat, now their only hope of victory. The bow is laid aside,
and spears, swords, and battle axes, decide the contest. A fearful scene of
close and deadly fight ensued — ^no militaay skill is employed, no maxkceuvering
of forces ; nothing but brute force and physical endurance are required. As
no prisoners are to be taken on either side, each man fights as though the
battle depended upon himself alone — ^the determination of all seems to be to
conquer or die upon the field."*
There are so many confused and conflicting accounts of this battle, that.it
is impossible to give a full and particular description of it. But all agree
that the air was darkened by the snow, which fell very thick, and was blown
by the wind full in the faces of the Lancastrians, and that this more than
balanced the advantage they derived firom the superiority of their numbers.
At length the forces of Henry began to give ground, at first in good order,
not flying, but retreating as they fought, and makii^ a stand now and then,
so that their enemies could not be sure of the victory. The troops of Edward,
• BatUe Fields of Yorkshire.
aSNSBAL HISTORY OF T0BK8HIRE. 160
mcouraged by his own personal brayery, now made fresh efforts, and at last
they so pressed the Lancastrians, as to oblige them to fly in disorder. Then
it was that the dreadful slaughter ensued — ^that the flying troops were cut
down without mercy. The retreating soldiers shaped their course for Tad-
caster bridge in order to cross the Wharfe, but despairing of reaching it, be-
cause they were so hotly pressed, they turned aside, in order to pass the small
liTer Cock, which runs through one of the most crooked of channels, along
the west side of the battle field, and enters the Wharfe about a mile south-east
of Tadcaster. But this movement was made with such confusion and hurry,
that the Cock was quickly filled with their dead bodies, which served as a
bridge for the pursued and pursuers to pass ov^r, and the waters of the
rivnlet rolled a bloody current to the Wharfe. The slaughter at this point
was so tremendous, that even the waters of the Wharfe were crimsoned with
the blood of the victims. 98,000 of the Lancastrians were slaughtered in the
battle and pursuit, and the total number that perished on that dreadful day
is 87,776. A contemporary historian assures us, that besides those who
perished in the waters, 38,000 men remained dead on the field.')' The whole
distance between the battle field and the city of York (ten miles) was covered
with the bodies of the slain. Edward himself, in a confidential letter to his
mother, while he conceals his own loss, informs her that the heralds, em-
pbyed to number the dead bodies, returned the Lancastrians alone at 98,000.f
Among the slain were the Earls of Northumberland, Westmoriand, and
Shrewsbuiy ; John, Lord Clifford, already mentioned. Lords Dacre, Beau-
mont, Neville, Willoughby, Boos, Scales, Grey, Fitzhugh, Molineaux, Welles,
and Heniy Buckingham ; Sir Andrew Trollop, Sir John Neville, Sir Richard
Percy, Sir John Heyton, Sir Gervace Clifton, Sir Edward Hamis, Sir Jc^n
Burton, Sir David Trollop, Sir Thomas Crakenthorpe, Sir John Ormond, and
many other Knights. The Dukes of Somerset and Exeter were fortunate
enough to escape the carnage ; but Thomas Courtney, Earl of Devonshire,
and several others were taken prisonets. This bottle fixed the crown on the
brow ci Edward. The snow storm of the battle day was succeeded by a
frost, which congealed the blood upon the snow; and as the wounds were all
made with arrows^ swords, spears, and battle-axes, the effusion of blood would
be grmtet than in a modem battle. And when a thaw came, and dissolved
the mass, the field presented a most horrible spectacle, the ftmrows and water
courses literally running with blood. ^
• Cent. Hist. Croyland, p. 653. •» Fenn's Letters, voL i, p. 217.
{ Some writers dispute the fietct, that the waters of the Wharfe could be dyed with
blood by the carnage of the battle, bm at the e^tor of the BatOe Fieldt of Yarkihiret
160 GEKERAL HISTOET OF TOBtSHIIlB.
Thus did the folly of the nation exhibit itself; and thus did dose upon
40|000 Englishmen sacrifice their Hyes in deciding the question whether an
amiable and imbecile Sovereign, or a javenile, but able, yoluptuous, and
sanguinary tyrant (as he afterwards proyed to be), should be their master.
No other object was involved in the struggle-nno wrongs were redressed,
no rights were obtained — ^it was not a combat for justice or freedom, for they
were names and things unknown and forgotten amid the dissonant dash
of arms, and the bloody vengeance of furious party spirit The £ari of
Northumberknd reached York before he died; Lord Clifford was tumbled
into a pit along with a heap of dead bodies ; the £ari of Westmoriand was
buried in Saxton church ; and Lord Dacre was interred in Saxton church
yard, where is a " meane tomb " to his memory.
Lord Dacre is supposed to have been killed in the field called North Acres
while drinking, having removed his gorget for that purpoacf The traditkni
of the neighbourhood is, that he was struck in the throat by a bolt, or head*
less arrow, shot from a cross-bow by a boy, hid in a ''burtree," or elder bush.
The spot where the event took place is yet pointed out by the inhabitants.
It is a rising ground a short distance from the cross roads at the north west
comer of Scarthingwell Park; and many *' burtrees ** are yet growing in the
a^acent hedgerows. An old dwarf thorn yet stands near the place, which
may have been a tree at the time of the battle. The bodies of the common
men were thrown into large pits, numbers together. According to Stowe,
the slain were buried in five great pits, yet appearing, to the north of Saxton
church; but Mr. Hungate caused them to be removed from thence, and
buried in the church yard of Saxton. Li preparing a vault near Lord
Decrees tomb, on the north of the church, a few years ago, to receive the
very justly remarks, — ^This is very probable. The Cock is a small river, not more than
ten feet T?ide, and which a man of ordinary agility might easily overleap. We are told
that the greatest slaughter began when the Lancastrians fled in conftision across the
brook; and the water oonrse being filled with the bodies of those who foil, fiusOitated
the passage of their oomrades, as well as of their pursuers. The Lancastrians flying
from the battle field, from about North Acres, would rush down Towton dale without
seeking for a bridge, when so narrow a river wotdd soon be filled with the drowned and
slain. And it must be considered, that as the Cock does not nm above two miles fhr-
ther, it may easily oairy its ensanguined waters into the Whaife. Besides, as the chase
was continued for some distance, it is not unlikely that many might be slain on the
banks of the Wharfe itself near Tadcaster. There is even yet a tradition current in the
neighbourhood, that the Cock ran blood for fi>rt7-eight hours at that time.
• The following rhyme is well known to the people of Saxton : —
<*The LoidDMfM,
Wm ilaia in Not* Aem.'*
OBKEBAL HISTORY OF YOB£SHIB£. 161
body of a gentleman of the name of Prest, of Scarthingwell Hall, an immense
mass of bones was cut through^ near five feet in thickness, and of consider^
able extent. This proves the correctness of the statement that the bones
vrere removed to the church yard. Drake, the historian of York, saw a
grave opened in 1784, where, among vast quantities of bones, were found
some arrow piles, pieces of broken swords, and five groat pieces of Henry
IV., v., and YI. In the fields around the village of Saxton are several
artificial mounds, probably depositories of the dead slain in this terrible
battle ; and near the hamlet of Lead, close to the Cock rivulet, are three
mtate mounds of a similar kind, nearly close together, about six feet in height,
and forty-two feet in diameter, which, in all probability, cover multitudes of
the slain. AU writers agree that the bodies of the soldiers were buried be-
neath large mounds on the field of battle ; but the lapse of four centuries,
and the continued action of the plough and harrow, have worn many of them
nearly down to the level surfisice of the soil. Circles may yet be seen in the
field above a stone quarry, which mark the spots as repositories of the slain.
In this field, which formed part oi the battle ground, flourishes profusely a
dwarf rose, which it is reported the Yorkists, either in afiection, or in triumph,
planted on the graves of their fallen countrymen.'!'
The author of the Battle Fields of Yorkshire tells us, that another beautiful
and iiuiciful notion' is, that this rose will not grow elsewhere ; " and that
Providence has caused it to spring firom the blended blood of the victims of
the red and white rose factions, which are typified in its white petals slightly
tinged with red, and in the dull bloody hue of the leaves of the older wood.
This pleasing piece of superstition," he adds " has caused many of those di-
minutive shrubs to be removed firom their native soil, and carried far away to
other places." Patches and clusters of these rose trees in full blow may be
seen every year; and it appears very difficult to eradicate the plant, for
whilst the least portion of the root remains in the soil, it will, in due time,
shoot forth a plant, and bear its delicate white flower, upon which the rustic,
happy in his legendary lore, traces in its slight tinges of pink, the blood of
Lancaster.
Among the few relics of the battle found, was a gold ring weighing more
than an oimce, which was turned up on the field about the year 1786. It
• lo the foregoing desoription of the battle of Towton Field, we have been led into a
alight error, by following the accounts of Bapin and most of the historians, who state
that the flying Lancastrians heing unable to reach Tadcaster bridge, tamed aside, in
order to pass the small river Cock. This is eridently a mistake ; for to pass the Cock
from the field of batUe, was the only way by which they could gain Tadcaster bridge.
T
163 OENERAL HIBTOBT OF TOBESHZSE.
bore the creet of the noble family of Percy* and it ia supposed the ring was
worn by the Earl of Northumberland on the day of the battle. A silver gilt
ring, with two hands coigoined, and an antique spur, with some other tzifling
articles, have also been found on the battle field.
On a part of the field north of Saxion, Bichaid m. began to build a
chapel, in which prayers might be said for the souls of the ahdn ; but its
completion was prevented by his death at the battle of Bosworth Field. No
remains of this chapel are now to be seen ; but the site is yet oaUed " Chi^
Garth." The batde of Towton Field is called among the country people
*' the Towton Dale Fight ;" and they also say that it took place on a Sunday,
whilst the people were attending mass at Saxton church.
King Henry, his Queen, and their young son Edward, who had remained at
York during the battle, retired into Scotland with the Dukes of Somerset and
Exeter, and afterwards quitted the kingdom. Edward entered the cily of
York soon aflter their departure, and immediately took down from the Bar, the
head of his father, and those of his Mends, which had been upon the walls of
the city since the battle of Wakefield, and in return ordered Thomas Courtney,
Earl of Devon, the Earl of Kyme, Sir William HiU, and Sir Thomas Fulford,
adherents to Henry, to be executed, and their heads to be placed on the
vacant poles over Mickl^ate Bar. Edward soon after repaired to London,
where he was crowned on the 29tb of July next following. When the Par-
liament assembled, both houses were eager to display their attachment to
their new Sovereign. They first pronounced the reigns of the three last
Kings a tyrannical usurpation, and then followed a sweeping bill of attainder,
which extended itself to almost every man who had distinguished himself in
the cause of the house of Lancaster. The unfdrtunate Henry YI., his Queen,
and son, together with the Dukes of Somerset and Exeter, the Earls of North-
umberland, Devon, Wiltshire, and Pembroke, and a large number of Viscounts,
Knights, Priests, and Esquires, were adjudged to sufier all the penalties of
treason. La defence of such imexampled severity, it was allied the advan-
tage of annihilating at once the power of the parfy; and to this motive was
probably added another, the necessity of providing funds firom which Edward
might satisfy the expectations of those to whose services he owed the present
possession of the crown.
The cause of the red rose now appeared desperate; but it was still supported
by the courage and industiy of Margaret To aid hear cause, she visited the
continent, and invited all true Knights to avenge the wrongs of an ]i\jured
monarch. The Duke of Bretagne made her a present of 12,000 crowns; and
the King of France ^Louis XI.) lent her 20,000 crowns, and permitted Breze,
GBNXRAL BISTORT OF T0RK8HIBE. 163
the Seneschal of Nonnaiidy, to fbQow her fortunes with 2,000 men. Aller
tn absence of five months, she retnmed, and summoned to her standard the
friends of her fiunilj on the holders ; and with this army, composed of Scotch,
French, and Northumbrians, she seized the three fortresses of Bamborough,
Ahuwidc, and Dunstanburgh. But when the Earl of Warwick arrived with
90,000 men, and intelligenoe was receiyed of the advance of Edward with an
eqnal number, the Lancastrians separated to garrison their conquests, and
the Queen, wilii her French auxiliaries, repaired to their ships. The winds
and ihe waves now seemed to have conspired against her ; part of her fleet,
with all her treasures, were dashed against the rocks ; and Margaret and
Bies^ arrived in a fishing boat at Berwick. Warwick, dividing the rojal
army into three bodies, besieged at the same time the three fortresses, which
snmndered after a brave and obstinate resistance.
The spirit and activity of Margaret exposed her during this winter cam-
paign to numerous privations and dangers. After the loss of the above-named
cast&eB, she, accompanied by the Duke of Exeter, Brezd, and 300 exiles,
sailed to Sli^, in Flanders. The Duke of Bui^gundy received her with every
mark of outward distmction, but refused to listen to her soUcitatrons in favour
of her husband. He gave her a supply of money for her present expenses,
and forwarded her in safety as fistr as the Dnchy of Bar, in Lorraine,
belonging to her fiither. There she fixed her residence, watching, with
anxiety, the course of events, and consoling her sorrows with the hope of yet
placing her husband or her son on, the English throne.
In the beginning of the above campaign, Edward, with a numerous army,
and most of his nobility, on their march to the north against the unfor-
tunate Henry, visited Torii. Edward proceeded no further than Newcastle,
having been taken ill at that place ; and the command of the entire army
was undertaken by Warwick. Henry, who for security had been conveyed
to the castle of Hardlough, in Merionethshire, commanded by David ap
Jevan ap Eynion, who, in defiance of repeated acts of attainder, refused to
submit to Edward ; was, in the same year, summoned to put himself at the
head of a body of exiles and Scots. He was soon joined by the Duke of
Somerset, Sir Ralph Percy, and their adherents. The Lancastrians en-
camped on the banks of the Dilswater, near Hexham ; where they were soon
attacked by a powerful army, commanded by Neville, Lord Montague, the
Warden of the East Marches. Somerset, who was endeavouring to save
himself by flighti was taken, beheaded the same day, and buried in the
neighbouring Abbey. Two days later, the Lords Roos and Hungerford met
with the same fate on the Sandhill, at Newcastle ; and many of their fol-
164 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORSSHIRE.
lowers were successively executed in that town, and at York. Henry sayed
himself by flight. Hollinshed tells us that here he shewed himself an excel-
lent horseman, for he rode so fast, that none could overtake him. His
servants and equipage fell into the enemy's hands, and among the latter was
found the royal cap, called Bycoket, or Abacot,* with which Edward was
again crowned on the 4th of May, in the same year, with great solemnity at
York.
Lord Montague was now created Earl of Northumberland ; and another
list of attainders contributed to exhaust the resources of King Henry, and to
add to those of Edward. The citizens of York, as well as the people of the
north in general, had hitherto firmly attached themselves to the house of
Lancaster ; but they now seem to have espoused the cause of Edward, or he
endeavoured to gain them to his favour, for before he left that city on this
occasion, he, by patent dated York, June 10th, 1464, not only relinquishes
his usual demands, or fee farm rent of the city, but assigned it for the twelve
succeeding years, an annual rent of £40., to be paid out of his customs in
the port of HuU. In this extraordinary document (which is now deposited
in the Tower of London) the King expresses his great concern for the suf-
ferings and hardships the city had imdergone during these wars, and for the
poverty they had occasioned.
After the- flight from Hexham, Henry sought an asylum among the natives
of Lancashire and Westmorland, a people sincerely devoted to his interests,
and was during this time frequently concealed in the house of John Machdl,
at Crakenthorp, in Westmorland.* For more than a year he eluded the
vigilance and researches of the government ; but he was at last betrayed by
the perfidy of Cantlow, a monk of Abingdon, and taken by the servants of
Sir James Harrington, of Brierley, in or near to Waddington Hall, in York-
shire. At Islington the unfortunate monarch was met by the Earl of
Warwick, who ordered by proclamation that no one should show him any
respect, tied his feet to the stirrups as a prisoner, led him thrice round the
pillory, and conducted him to the Tower.
The Lancastrians having abandoned the contest after the battle near
Hexham, Edward for some years kept quiet possession of the crown. But
at length he, who had driven Henry into exile, was in his turn obliged to
share the same fortune himself, owing to the defection of " that setter up and
• Spelman says that this word signified a royal cap ensigned with two crowns of gold,
which doubtless were those of England and France.
* Bymer, xi., p. 948.
QENEBAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIBE. 165
poller down of Kings," the Earl of Warwick. Whilst that Earl was in
France, negociating a treaty of marriage between Edward and the French
King s sister, it happened that the former visited WjdeviUe, Lord Rivers, i^t
Grafton (Northamptonshire), where he saw his daughter Elizabeth, relict of
Sir John Grey, of Groby (a Lancastrian), a woman of superior beaufy and
accomplishments. The Lady Grey, whose husband had fallen at the second '
battle of St Albans, seized the opportunity to throw herself at the feet of her
sovereign, and solicit him to reverse the attainder of her late husband, in
favour of her destitute children. The King pitied — ^nay, soon loved the
beautiful suppliant, and in the end married her, after having vainly en-
deavoured to debauch her. But the connection proved calamitous, for the
Earl of Warwick, disgusted with Edward*s conduct in consequence of this
alliance, espoused the cause of Henry, in which he united his two brothers,
the Marquis Montecute and Lord George, one of whom was Lord President
of the North, and the other Archbishop of York. Warwick was Governor of
Calais ; and it was agreed that whilst he at that place endeavoured to excite
the inhabitants, the two brothers should stir up a commotion in the north.
They soon entered into a correspondence with the eldest sons of the Lord
Fitzhugh, and Neville, Lord Latimer, Sir John Conyers, and others, to de-
throne Edward, and restore Henry. Their attention was directed to the city
of York, where was an Hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard, to the Warden of
which, certain Thraves of com from every plough land, had been paid since
the time of King Athelstan.* It was supposed that these thraves had ori-
ginally been a voluntary contribution, but which, by custom, were at length
considered a debt. In the beginning of the last reign, in consequence of
some of the farmers having withheld the thraves, it was deemed necessary to
have them confirmed to the hospital by Act of Parliament.
The government officers appointed to collect these thraves having at this
time (a.d. 1469) attempted to levy their value by distress, the farmers and
the peasants flew to arms, chose for their leader Robert Hilyard, or Hul-
deme, commonly called Robin of Redesdale, and threatened to march to the
south and reform the abuses of government The two brothers of the Earl
of Warwick are said to have improved the opportunity to increase the spirit
• A Throve ms sometimes twelve, and at other times twenty-four sheaves. The
King's thraves were called Horatafia, Herstraffa, or Herat Com, and were payments in
lien of the King's right to pastorage and forage for his horses ; and it appears that King
Athelstan endowed St. Leonard's Hospital with some of his thraves in this county.
The same monarch endowed the Collegiate establishment at Beverley with four thraves
of com annually fktnn eveiy plough land in the Bast Biding.
166 OEMBBAI. HISTOBT OF T0BX8HIBB.
of revolt By misrepresentiiig tlie affidr, they are said to have ezaspeiated
the people to such an eztenti that 15,000 mea arose in arms, and marched
towards Yoik. The citizens of York were alarmed by the approadi of the
insurgents ; bat the Earl of Northumberland, Warwiok*s brother, to prevent
the destraction of the city, attacked and defeated them with coneiderable
alaaghter; and executed their leader on the field of batde. This dream-
stance would seem to acquit one of the Nevilles from all share in the insur-
rection ; but it must be borne in mind that he could, if he pleased, have
instantly extinguiflhed the flame before it grew into a general c<mflagration ;
and his inactivity subsequent to their attack upon York» together with the
conduct of his two brothers, prove that, whatever were its original cause^
they were willing at least to convert it to their own purposes.
The rebels had lost their leader, but they found two othere of more illus-
trious name in the before-mentioned sons of Lords Fitzhugh and Latimer —
the one the nephew, and the other the cousin-german of Warwick; and these
young men, though nominally at the head of the rebels, in realily obeyed the
commands of Sir John Conyers, an old and experienced officer. The claim of
the hospital was now forgotten, and their avowed object was to remove from
the King's councils the Wydevilles (the Queen's fiimily, of whose influence
with the King the Nevilles were jealous), the authors of the taxes that
impoverished, and of the calamities that oppressed the nation. At the name
of Wanrick, his tenants crowded from every quarter ; and in a few days the
insurgents reached a very large number. On the first intdligence of the
rising in Yorkshire, Edward summoned his retainers, and fixed his head
quarters at the castle of Fotheringhay. The King's forces and the rebels met
in the neighbourhood of Banbury ; the former under the joint command of
the Earls of Pembreke and Devon. The two Earls entered Banbury together,
but quarrelled in an evil hour about their quarters, *' The Eari of Pem-
broke," says Hall, " putte the Erie of Devon out of an Inne, wherein he
delighted muche to be, for the love of a damoeell that dwelled in the house ;
contrary to their mutuall agroment by them taken, whiche was, that whoso-
euer obterned first a lodgyng, should not be deceiued nor remoued.**
The Earl of Devon, after a hearty quarrel with his brother general, retired
with his division ; and the rebels, profiting by this opportunity, attacked the
remaining forces. The day was for some time doubtful, but the insurgents
at length prevailed, and beheaded the Eari of Pembroke, either in the town,
or its immediate neighbourhood, together with his brother. Sir Bichard
Herbert, and ten other gentlemen. This conflict is said to have taken place
at Danesmoor, or Dunsmoor, as it is now called. Hall^ Grafton, and Hollin*
OXNBBAL HISTOET OF TOBSSHIBS. 167
afafid state that above 600 WelBhmen» of which the Earl of Pembroke's Ibrcea
were prinoipally oomp06ed» were slain in this battle ; and William of Wor*
oeater states, that at-least 168 of the nobility and gentry of Wales fell in this
hattle. About 1,600 of the inmirgents were slain on the same fidd, among
whom weve Sir Henrjr Latimer* Sir Roger Pigot, knt, fto. The Nevilles
then proceeded in search of Edward* whom they found at Olney, in Buok-
inghamshire» plunged in the deepest distress at the defeat of Pembroke.
Here he was taken prisoner* and placed in the custody of the Archbishop of
York, who sent him to Middleham castle. And then did England ezhiUt
the ertraordinary spectade of two rival Kings* each confined in prison*—
Heniy in the Tower* and Edward in Yorkshire. At the command of War-
wick* the insurgents returned to their homes, laden with plunder. Edward
soon afterwards escaped from Middleham* and fled into France.')'
The poor* passive King Henry was now brought out of the Tower, where
he had been a prisoner for nearly nine years* and amidst great rgoidngs*
once more reinstated in his kingly dignity. A Parliament was called, which
confirmed Henry's title to the crown with great solemnity; Edward was
pronounced an usurper, and all acts passed by his authority repealed;
and Warwick was received among the people under the tide of the King
Maker. But Heniy*s evil fate suflered him not to ei\|oy his honours long,
for Edward having prevailed with the Duke of Burgundy* his brother-in-law*
to lend him an aid of men and money, set sail, and after an absence of nine
months, landed at Ravenspume, on the 14th of March, 1471, on the spot
where Bdingbroke had previously landed to dethrone Richard 11.
Edward, who was attended by d,000 men, sent some of his followers to
sound the a&ctiona of the people ; but finding all the parts of the country
firom where he had landed to York, very much averse to his title, and perfectly
satisfied with Henry*s rule, he artfully pretended that he came but to daim
his patrimonial estate of Yorit only, and not the crown. This dissimulation
had the desired effect upon the people, who admired his modemtioa, and
thought it the highest injustice to keep him from his dukedom. This politic
artifice was disbelieved by Warwick, who sent strict orders to the city of
York and tjie town of Hull that he should not be admitted. On his way
towards York, he everywhere proclaimed Heniy King, and styled himself
only Duke of York; and he wore in his bonnet an ostrich feather the device
of Edward, the Lancastrian Prince of Wales. On his near ^preach to the
« There aie mfwnl aoeoonts of the escape of Edvard, bat that which is generally
SiTVD is, that the Arohlnahop aDowed him to lum^ and that one day while he waa em-
ldo7ediathBtaaei«M,hawaBoairiedeff hyhiaftieadf. Hall,S08.
168 OENEBAL HISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
city he was met bj- two Aldermen, who informed him that he could not be
received there, but that the citizens would oppose him to the utmost.
Notwithstanding this message, however, on his coming to the gates, and
repeating his former professions of loyalty to King Henry, and swearing to
be true and faithful to him, he was admitted. He rode immediately to the
Cathedral, and there in a most solemn manner confirmed his oath on the
high altar.* This, however, was an act of base hypocrisy ; for no sooner had
he performed this ceremony, than he seized the guards, assumed the r^al
tide, raised a considerable loan in the city, and leaving it well garrisoned,
marched to London, where, on his arrival, the gates were thrown open to
him, and the like acclamations heard as Henry had enjoyed but six months
before.
The sequel is known to every reader of English histoiy — ^the decisive battle
of Bamet soon followed, in which Edward defeated Henry's forces; the great
Earl of Warwick was slain, together with his brother and 10,000 of their
adherents.! This battle took place on Easter Sunday, 1471 ; and on that
very day Queen Margaret landed at Weymouth with a body of French
auxiharies. When she heard the fatal news of the death of the brave
Warwick, and the total destruction of her party, she gave way to her grief,
for the first time it is said, in a torrent of tears. She sank to the ground in
despair, and as soon as she recovered her composure, hastened with her son
for safety to the Abbey of Ceme. But the Lancastrian Lords, who still
remained faithful to the cause, induced her to quit her asylum, conducted her
to Bath, and raised a considerable body of troops to fight tmder her banner.
A few days after the battle of Bamet, Edward was summoned to the field of
Tewkesbury, where his good fortune again prevailed. Margaret*s forces were
routed, though the Lancastrians fought to the last with imdaunted bravery.
Immediately after the battle. Prince Edward, the son of Henry, was murdered
in cold blood by the Dukes of Clarence and Gloucester, aided by Lord
Hastings and Sir Thomas Grey, in the presence of Edward, who, it is said,
struck the brave youth the first blow with his gauntlet. Henry was thrown
• Historians remark that thoagb the due punishment of this wUfol peijury was with-
held from Edward himself, yet it fell in full measure upon his children.
f The Earl of 'Warwick was one of the most extraordinaiy characters of his time,
and one of the bravest warriors, and most rich and powerfol nobles in England, He
owed his popularity as much to his hospitality as to his personal qualities. It was of
the most unbounded and profUse kind: It is said that S0,000 persons were regularly
maintained in his numerous castles, and any man might walk into his kitehen at
pleasure, and take away as much beef or mutton as he could cany on his dagger.
O&KEBAL BISTOBY OP YORKSHIRE. 169
into the Tower, where he expired in a few days, or, according to some, was
put to a violent death by Richard, Duke of Gloucester. Margaret was im-
prisoned, first in the Tower, afterwards at Windsor, and lastly at Wallingford,
with a weekly allowance of five marks for the support of herself and her
servants. After a captivity of five years, she was ransomed by Louis, King
of France, for 50,000 crowns, and retired to Ai^ou, where she closed her
eventful life in the year 148Q. This extraordinary woman, who sustained
the cause of her amiable but truly unfortunate husband, in twelve battles,
died very miserable indeed; but with few other claims to our pity, except her
courage and her distresses.
Some years sabsequent to the batde in Tewkesbury Park, Edward IV.
visited York for the last time. He was met at a village called Wentbridge,
some distance from the city, by John Ferriby, then Lord Mayor, the Alder-
men, and commonally on horseback, and many of the principal citizens, who
conducted him with loud acclamations to the city. He departed in a few
days, having first made the city a present of a laiige sum of money.
This King is said to have been the most accomplished, and till he grew too
unwieldy, the most handsome man of the age. The love of pleasure was his
ruling passion ; and few Princes were more magnificent in their dress, or
more licentious in their amours. His excesses at last incapacitated him for
active exertion, and he entirely abandoned the charge of military afiairs to
his brother Richard, the Duke of Gloucester. A slight ailment, induced by
the debaucheries in which he indulged, suddenly exhibited the most danger-
ous symptoms, and in a few days put a period to his existence, in the 41st
year of his age, and 33rd of his reign. Edward might have promised
himself a long and prosperous reign, had not continued indulgence enervated
his constitution, and sown the seeds of that malady which consigned him to
the grave. He left two sons, Edward, in his 12th year, who succeeded him,
and Richard, Duke of York and Earl Marshal, in his 11th year. Of his
five daughters, who had been in their youths affianced to foreign monarchs,
Elizabeth was afterwards married to King Henry Vu. ; Cecily, to the Vis-
count Welles ; Anne, to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk ; Catherine, to
WiHiam Courtenay, Earl of Devon ; and Bridget became a nun in the con-
vent of Dartford.
Having the command of the army against the Scote, Richard, Duke of
Gloucester, was employed in the marches at the time of his brother's death ;
but the moment he heard of that event, he repaired to York, with a train of
600 Knighte and Esquires, dressed in deep mourning, and ordered a solemn
requiem mass to be celebrated in the Cathedral of that city, for the repose of
z
170 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKBHIRE.
the late King's soul. Gloucester was a Prince of insatiable ambition, who
could conceal the most bloody projects under the mask of affection and loyalty.
After the funeral obsequies had been peiformed with royal magnificence, he
summoned the nobles and gentlemen of the county to swear allegiance to
Edward V . ; and to give them an example, was himself the first who took the
oath. Having been appointed protector of the realm, he assumed the lofty
style of " brother and uncle of Kings, protectour and defensour, great cham-
beriayne, constable, and Lord High Admiral of En^and.'* About this time
the Corporation of York begged of Gloucester to move the King for a dimi-
nution of their yearly payments to the crown, in consideration of the expenses
they had incurred in the public service. It is well known to the reader of
English history that Gloucester's ambition soon afterwards led him to usurp
the sovereignty, and to cause his nephews (the youthful King and his brother
Clarence) to be secretly murdered in the Tower, and that he was crowned at
Westminster, uuder the title of Richard IH., together with his consort Anne,
the daughter of the late Earl of Warwick, in the year 1483. In the latter
end of August in the same year, the King, accompanied by his Queen, and
the youthful Prince Edward, made a journey to the north, and visited York.
It appears that Eichard was most anxious to appear in an imposing manner
before his northern subjects on this occasion, as we find his secretary writing
from Nottingham to York, urging <* the gude masters, the mair, i^corder, and
aldermen, and sheriffs," to make splendid preparations for their Majesties'
reception, " for there,'' says he, " be comen many southern lords, and men of
worship, which will mark greatly your resayving thar graces ;" and in the
same letter he assures them of the singular love which tiie King bore to the
city of York " afore all others." And in a letter writtai by Richard himself
(preserved in the Harleian MSS.) from York to Piers Courties, keeper of his
wardrobe, he orders him to send hither an almost incredible supply of gor-
geous state apparel.
Most historians assert that on this occasion Riehaid was crowned at York
by Archbishop Rotherham ; bat in this they are in error, as Mr. Daviee, kte
town-clerk of York, has shown c<»iclusively — there being no reoord of snch
coronation, either in the archives of the Coiporation ef York, or in the official
acts of Archbishop Rotherham.f Nor is Uiere any account of a coronation
given by any contemporai;;^ chronicler. But what has led writers of a later
« Hist. Croyl. eontd.
f Extraotfi ttom the Municipal Becords of the City of York, by Bohert Davies, F.SA.,
pp. 1280, 286.
GBKEBAIi HISTORT OP TOBSSHIRE. 171
date into error is, no doubt, the extraordinary splendour with which the cere-
mony of knighting the young Prince Edward was conducted here during the
royal visit. On the 8th of September, the Prince was not only knighted,
but he was invested with his full title and dignity as Prince of Wales. On
this occasion, says Hall, '* the whole clergy assembled in copes, richly revested,
and so with a reverent ceremony went into the city in procession, after whom
fi^owed the King, with his crown and sceptre, apparelled in his circot robe
royal, accompanied with no small number of the nobilily of his realm ; after
whom marched in order Queen Anne, his wife, likewise crowned, leading on
her left hand. Prince Edward, her son, having on his head a demy crown
appointed for the degree of a Prince. The King was had in that triumph in
such honour, and the common people of the north so rejoiced, that they
extolled and praised him far above the stars."*
Tournaments, masques, plays, and other diversions, in which all the peers
in the kingdom joined, took place on this occasion, and so luxurious was the
feasting, and so prodigious were the sums of money expended, that the royal
treasury was nearly exhausted, though about that period wheat sold for 2s.
a quarter, barley for Is. lOd., and oats for Is. 2d. This monarch dis-
tinguished the city of York by various marks of royal munificence, and the
citizens showed their gratitude by a steady adherence to his interests. Soon
after the accession of Richard, the Duke of Buckingham took up arms against
him, and a proclamation from the King, declaring the Duke a traitor, was
publicly read at York. There were named with him in the proclamation the
Marquis of Dorset, Sir William Noreys, Sir William Knevet, and some
others of the Duke*s adherents; and a reward of £1000 in money was offered
in the proclamation, or £100 a year in land to any person who should bring
the Duke to justice; and 1000 marks, or 100 marks a year, for the Marquis.
In 1485, Richard and Anne, his Queen, visited Scarborough, and resided
for some time in the castle. The King was very liberal to that town, not
only adding to its security by a wall and bulwark, but also granting a charter,
with more extensive privileges than those of his predecessors.
The crown which he had so iniquitously obtained, was not preserved to
him long. On the 7th of August, 1485, Henry, Earl of Richmond (the
representative, in right of his mother, of the house of Lancaster), landed from
Harfleur, in Normandy, with an army, at Milford-Haven, in South Wales,
and proceeded to Lichfield, his army being augmented on the way. The
forces of the King met those of the Earl near Bosworth, in Leicestershire,
* Hall's Chronicle, p. 380.
172 OEKfiBAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIRC*
on the 22ad of the same month, where the battle, which determined the quarrel
of the two contending houses of York and Lancaster, was fought Richard
was slain, and his army totally routed. His crown, which was found in the
field, was immediately placed by Lord Stanley on the head of the Earl of
Richmond, and the army saluted him King. Richard's body was stripped,
thrown across a horse behind a pursuivant-at-arms, and in that manner con-
veyed to Leicester, where it was exposed for two days to public view, and
then interred with litde ceremony in the church of the Grey Friars.
The accession of Henry VII. to the throne, and his subsequent marriage
with the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and heiress of the
house of York, united the interests of the houses of York and Lancaster, and
blended the " two roses."
" The houses now of York and Lancaster,
Like bloody brothers fighting for a birthright,
No more shall wound the parent that would part 'em.
0 m • m
We'll twine the roses, red and white, together,
And both fix>m one kind stalk shall ever flourish."*
The Princess Elizabeth had been sent by Richard, as a captive to Sheriff
Mutton Castle, near York ; and it is said that the tyrannic Prince intended
to marry her himself (though she was his niece) as a matter of policy. She
was conducted publicly to London, by a numerous body of nobility, and her
marriage with the King was soon after solemnized. After his marriage, the
new monarch resolved to make a progress through the kingdom. The na-
tives of the northern counties had been much devoted to Richard ; and Henry
hoped, by spending some time amongst them, to attach them to his interests.
Accordingly he set out with a numerous and splendid retinue, and visited
Lincoln, Nottingham, and many other places. At Pontefract he received
intelligence that Lord Level, formerly Chamberlain to Richard, had raised a
force in the neighbourhood of Ripon and Middleham, and was preparing to
surprise him at his entry into York. The Duke of Bedford, at the head of
a pretty numerous body of forces, prepared to meet the insurgents ; but upon
the publication of an offer of pardon to all who should return to their duty,
the rebel army immediately dispersed. Level himself escaped from the king-
dom, and a few of has followers were executed by the Earl of Northumberland.
The King made his entry into York with royal magnificence. Three miles
from the city he was met by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen on hoi*seback ;
* Shakespeare.
GENERAL HISTOBY OF TORESHIRE. 173
at the gate he was reeeived with a procession of the clergy, the acclamations
of the populace, and the exhibition of pageants. He spent three weeks in
the city, dispensing favours, conferring honours, and redressing grievances ;
a conduct, the policy of which was proved by the loyalty of the country
during the invasion of the following year. Amongst other favours granted
to the citizens of York, he diminished the yearly rent of JS160., which they
paid to the crown, to the small sum of JS18. 5s.*
The perpetuation of the crown in the family of its present possessor was
now threatened by the birth of a Prince ; and this event uiged the enemies
of the King to one of the most extraordinary attempts recorded in history.
After the death of the Duke of Clarence, brother to Edward lY., his only
child, Edward Plantagenet, was created Earl of Warwick, the title borne by
his grandflBtther. When Henry VII. ascended the throne, this youthful
Earl had only reached his 16th year ; and he had been for some time a
prisoner in the castle of Sheriff Hutton, in which place he had been confined
by Eichard HI., who feared that he might one day become a dangerous com-
petitor for the crown. One of the first acts of the new King was to transfer
the young Prince, from his prison in Yorkshire, to a place of greater secu-
rity— ^the Tower, he too viewing him with peculiar jealousy ; and thus was
this innocent child made a victim to satisfy the ambition of others.
One Richard Simons, a young priest of Oxford, landed in Dublin with a
boy about fifteen years of age, and presented him to the Earl of Kildare, the
Lord Deputy, and the chief of the Yorkists in Ireland, under the name of
the unfortunate Earl of Warwick, and implored the protection of that noble-
man for a young and innocent Prince, who, by escaping from the Tower, had
avoided the fate similar to that of his unfortunate cousins, the sons of
Edward lY . The boy was in reality Lambert Simnel, the son of a baker at
Oxford, a youth of handsome exterior, good address, and endowments of the
mind above his years ; and he had been well instructed in the part which he
had to perform, as he could relate, with apparent acciuucy, his adventures
at Sheriff Hutton, in the Tower, and during his escape.
The Earl of Lincoln, who had been declared by Richard IH., heir pre-
sumptive to the crown, and whose hopes were blighted by the accession of
Henry, was one of the first that openly espoused the cause of the impostor.
The Earl embarked for Flanders to concert with his aunt, Margaret of York,
Duchess of Burgundy, the means of dethroning Henry, and to solicit her
^support in the undertaking. The Duchess, who was sister to the two late
• Bot. Pari, vi, 800.
174 OEKBBAL HI8T0BT OF TORKSHIBE.
Kings, and a mortal ememy to the house of Lancaster, immediatelj agreed
to famish the Earl with 2,000 Hurgundian soldiers. The boy Simnel was
introduced under his assumed name, to the citizens of Dublin and the
nobility of Ireland, by Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, the Chancellor, brother to
the Lord Deputy, With the exception of the Butlers, the Bishops of
Gashel, Ologher, Tuam, and Ossoiy, and the citizens of Waterlbrd, the
rest of the population, relying on the authority of the Earl of Eildare,
admitted the title of the new Plantagenet without doubt or investigation ;
and having been joined by the Earl of Lincdn and his Burgundians, as well
as by Lord Lovel and others, he was proclaimed in Dublin by the style of
Edward YL, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland^ The
ceremony of coronation was performed by the Bishop of Meatb, with a
diadem taken from a statue of the Madona ; writs were even issued in his
name ; a Parliament was convoked ; and legal penalties were enacted against
his principal opponents in Ireland. When the intelligence reached Henry,
he conducted the real Earl pf Warwick irom the Tower to St Paul's, that
he might be publicly recognized by the citizens ; and took him with him to
the palace of Shene, where he conversed daily with the noblemen and others
who visited the court This prudent measure satisfied the people of England.
They laughed at the imposture in Ireland, whilst the Irish maintained that
theirs was the real, and that the boy at Shene was the pretended Plantagenet.
The rebels now resolved to make an attempt on England, and the Earl of
Lincoln being appointed commander in chief, landed with an army of 8,000
Gennan and Irish troops, at the Pile of Foudray, in Lancashire. At Swart-
more, near Ulverstone, the rebels were joined by the tenantry of Sir Thomas
Broughton, and here the impostor was again proclaimed. The Earl expected
that the people of the north would rise and join him as he marched along,
but in this he was disappointed, but not dismayed, lor he resolved to march
directly towards the King and give him battle. They now commenced their
march towards York, after sending a letter addressed to the Lord Mayor and
Corporation of that city, commanding that lodgings, victuals, &c., should be
provided for them. This was immediately communicated to Henry, who
without delay proceeded to York, where an attempt was made to seize his
person whilst he was solemnizing the festival of St Ge<»^, and it certainly
would have been successful had not the Earl of Northumberland rescued him.
This rebellion was not repressed until an obstinate contest took place at
the village of Stoke, within a few miles of Newark, on the 6th of June, 1487.
• Baeon, 14, 15. Polydor, 668.
OENERAL HI8T0BT OF TOBSSHIBE. 176
Daring the space of three hours the victoij was doubtful, but at length the
rebels were entirely routed with a loss of half their number ; and the Earl of
Lincoln, Sir Thomas Broughton, and most of the other leaders, were slain
on the field of battle,* Several of the principal insurgents were afterwards
banged upon a gibbet at Yorkf Simons and his pupil surrendered to one of
the King's esquires. The priest was made to confess the imposture, and then
thrown into prison, in which he perished ; but the pretended Edward VI.
obtained his pardon, was made a scullion in the royal kitchen, and after-
wards, in reward of his good conduct, was raised to the office of falconer.
The real object of this most serio-comic proceeding must for ever remain a
mystery. There is no doubt of its having been a deeply laid plot to annoy
if not to dethrone the King, on the part of the adherents of the house of
York. But why personate a prince who was still living, and who might any
day be confronted with the impostor? The Eail of Lincdn had seen and
convened with the real Earl of Warwick at Shene ; and the Earl of KiUare
and many others were doubtless in the secret. Several reasons have been
assigned for these strange proceedings, but " the least improbable is," writes
Dr. liingaid, " that which supposes that the finamers of the plot designed, if
it succeeded, to place the real Warwick on the throne ; but that, sensible how
much they should endanger his life, if they were to proclaim him while he
was in the Tower, they set up a counterfeit Warwick, and by this conlrivanoe
made it the interest of Henry to pi>Bserve the true one."|
In the Parliament hdd in the fourth year of this reign, the King was
granted a subsidy for carrying on the war in Bretagne. This land tax was
found so heavy in this part of the kingdom, that the people of Yorkshire and
Durham refused to pay it The Earl of Northumberland, then Lord Lieu-
tenant* wrote to inform the King of the discontent, and praying an abate-
menty but that avaricious monarch would not abate a penny. The message
being dalivedred by the Ea3:l with too little caution, to the inflammable popu-
bwob who had assembled in a tumultuous nuumer around his house^ at Cook
Lodges near Thirak, to complain of the grievance; the incensed rabble,
supposing him to be one of the chief advisers of that measure, immediately
broke into the house, and murdered the unfortunate Earl with many of his
8crvants.§ This sad catastrophe ocoorred on the feast of St Vitalis the
Mar^, A^ril SSth, 1489. Thus perished Henry Percy, the fourth Eaxl of
• BipiD, vol i, 19. 606, 660. Hall, fid. 6. Baosn, 666, 667. HoUinahed, p. 1461, Ae.
t Hist CnqrLoonld.
t Hirt. Bag., vol. v., p. 666, Ufp. 8vo. I DugJale's Baroniffe.
176 GENERAL HI8T0BT OF T0BK8HIBS.
NorthomberlAtid) a most exemplary nobleman, and one who enjoyed a high
degree of popular fieiTOur. How truly has a witty writer said lately, that
" popularity is a popular error." The murdered Earl was buried at Beverly
Minster, with great pomp and ceremony. But the matter ended not here ;
for being inflamed by one John ^ Chambre, a man of mean extraction, but
who was much esteemed by the common people, they chose for their leader
Sir John Egremont, and openly erected the standard of rebellion, declaring
their intention of marching against Henry himself. His Miyesty hearing of
this insurrection, sent Thomas, Earl of Surrey, with a competent force, to
repress the rebels. The Earl defeated them, and John k Chambre, and
several of his adherents, were executed at York, with great solemnity ; the
former on a gallows of extraordinary height, and the others were suspended
around him. The rest of the malcontents dispersed, while Sir John Egre-
mont was fortunate enough to escape into Flanders, where he obtained
protection from Margaret, Duchess of Burgundy. Henry, on this occasion,
visited York, in order to pacify that cify aod county ; he appointed the Earl
of Surrey, President of the North, and Sir Richard Tunstal, his chief com-
missioner, to levy the tax without any abatement. The firm conduct of the
King so damped the spirits of the northern malcontents, that, in all the
future rebellions during his reign, they approved themselves fedthful and
loyal subjects.
One would have imagined that from the ill success of Simnel*s imposture
few would be willing to embark in another of a similar kind ; but this was
indeed a reign of plots, treasons, insurrections, impostures, and executions,
though no prince ever loved peace more than Henry did. The old Duchess
of Burgundy, the fomenter and promoter of the King Simnel enterprise,
procured a report to be spread that the young Duke of York, said to have
been murdered in the Tower by command of Richard m., was still living.
This rumour being greedily received — ^the English being ever ready to give
credit to absurdities — a young man about twenty years of age, of handsome
features, graceful air, easy manners, courtly address, and elegant conversation,
was landed at the Cove of Cork, from a merchant trading vessel from Lisbon.
It was soon whispered about that the mysterious stranger was, Richard
Duke of York, the second son of Edward IV. The English settlers in Ire-
land were warmly attached to the house of York, and hence has that country
been selected as the theatre upon which was to be performed the first act in
the exploits of this pretender, as well as the opening scene of the Simnel
£urce. After the Earl of Desmond and the citizens of Cork had declared in
his fitvour, he accepted an invitation from the ministers of Charles m. to
GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE. 177
visit France, and place himself under the protection of that monarch. For
some time he was treated by Charles as the real Doke of York, and heir to
the English throne; and for his greater security, a guard of honour was
allotted to him.
Leaying France, we find him under the protection of the Duchess of
Bui^ndy, who received him with joy, appointed him a guard of thirty hal-
berdiers, and gave him the surname of " The White Rose of England." Her
conduct alarmed Henry, and revived the hopes of his enemies. Could the
aunt, it was asked, be deceived as to the identity of her nephew, or could she
countenance an impostor? Henry spared neither pains nor expense to
unravel the mystery; and the Yorkists were equally active. The royal
emissaries reported that the impostor was the son of a converted Jew, who
had been over to England in the reign of Edward IV. ; that he was a native
of the city of Toumay, and that his real name was Perkin Warbeck. Sir
Robert Clifford, the secret agent of the Y^orkists, had seen ^* the white rose,"
and had heard from himself, and from his aunt, the history of his adventures ;
and he assured his employers in England, that the claim of the new Duke of
York was indisputable. The spies of Henry discovered the English partisans
of the pretender, and in one day Lord Fitzwalter, Sir Simon Montford, Sir
Thomas Thwaites, several clergymen, and others, were apprehended on the
charge of high treason. Their correspondence with the friends of the pre-
tender in Flanders was considered a sufficient proof of their guilt ; and all
received judgment of death. Some of them suffered immediately, and the
rest were pardoned. Sir William Stanley too, Henry *s Lord Chamberlain,
was convicted of the same crime, and decapitated.
Three years had now elapsed since the pretender first set forth his claim ;
and yet he had never made any attempt to establish it by legal proof, or to
enforce it by an appeal to the sword. At length he sailed from the coast of
Flandere, with a few hundreds of adventurers attached to his fortunes, and
made an unsuccessful descent in the neighbourhood of Deal. The inhabitants
attacked the invaders, made 169 prisoners, and drove the remainder into their
boats. All the captives were hanged, by order of Henry. Warbeck then
sailed to Lreland, and with the aid of tlie Eari of Desmond, laid siege to
Waterford. Here again he fiedled, and then returned to Flanders. Soon
after he sailed to Cork, but the natives of that '' beautifiil city " refused to
venture their lives in his service. From Cork he passed to Scotland, and
was received with great cordiality by James IV., the King of that country,
who was seduced to believe the story of his birth ; and he carried his con-
fidence so liur as to give him in marriage his near relation, Lady Catherine
178 OEKERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
Gordon, daughter of the Earl of Huntlej. But not content with these
instances of favour, James resolved to attempt settling him on the throne of
England. Warbeck had mustered under his standard 1,400 men, outlaws
from all nations ; to these James added all the forces it was in his power to
raise ; and the combined army crossed the border. Thej were preceded by
a proclamation, in which the pretender was styled " Richard, by the grace of
God, King of England and France, Lord of Ireland, and Prince of Wales."
But the proclamation had no effect. It was expected that the country would
rise, when called upon ; but the adventurer's pretensions were now become
stale — the novelty of the thing had worn away — and not a sword was un-
sheathed in favour of the white rose. The Scots, to repay themselves, pillaged
the country without mercy, and returned, laden with spoils, to their homes.
We soon after find this restless adventurer, under the title of Bichard IV.,
at the head of 6,000 of the men of Cornwall, before the gates of Exeter,
where failure marked his progress. At Taunton he perceived the approach
of the royal army, commanded by the Lord Chamberlain and Lord Brooke ;
and at midnight, leaving his followers to their fate, he rode away with a guard
of sixty men to the sanctuary of Beaulieu, in Hampshire. In the morning
the insurgents submitted to the royal mercy, and the ringleaders were hanged.
Upon receiving a promise that liis life should be spared, Warbeck surrendered
himself to the King, who ordered him to be confined vnthin the precincts of
the palace.
Having grown weary of confinement in the palace, he, at the end of six
months, attempted to escape, but failed ; and for this he was placed in the
stocks at Westminster and Cheapside, and then committed to the Tower.
The real Earl of Warwick, and the pretended Duke of York, were now fellow-
prisoners in the Tower. They soon contracted a mutual friendship for each
other. Warbeck and he entered into a conspiracy, with four of the warders,
to murder the governor, effect their escape, and make another attempt to seize
the crown. This plot being discovered, they were both brought to trial, con-
demned, and executed. Whilst Warbeck and Warwick were plotting in the
Tower, a person of the name of Halph Wulford attempted to personate the
young Prince, but he was soon apprehended, and he paid with his life the
forfeit of his temerity.
The Princess Margaret, Henry's eldest daughter, a beautiful girl in her
18th year, when on a journey into Scotland, in order to consummate her
marriage with James IV., visited York, on the 14th July, 1503, accompanied
by a train of 600 lords and ladies. On this occasion the citizens testified
their loyalty to Heniy by paying her the most marked attention. The
GENERAL HISTORY OE TORESHIRE. 179
Sheriff, attended bj about 100 lords, ladies, and gentlemen, on horseback,
met her at Tadcaster Bridge, and the cavalcade proceeded till it amved
within a mile of the citj. '* So great were the preparations within the walls
of the northern metropolis," writes Miss Strickland, in her Lives of the
Queens of England, <' that she found it necessary to change her dress ; for
which purpose she retired to her litter, where, assisted by her tirewomen, she
performed her toilette bj the wayside. All her ladies and maidens likewise
refreshed their habiliments, and when they considered themselves sufficiently
brightened and cleansed from the dust and stains of travel, York gates were
opened, and a grand procession of civH magnates and gallant Yorkshire
oavaliers poured forth to meet and welcome the royal train. The citizens
were headed by the Lord Mayor of York and the chivalry of the Earl of
Northumberland. In fair order did Queen Margaret enter York, her min-
strels singing, her trumpets and sackbuts playing, and the high woods
resounding, banners and bandroles waving ; coats of arms unrolled to the
light of the sun setting ; rich maces in hand, and brave horsemen curvetting
and bounding. York was crowded with the gentry from the East and West
Ridings. My Lord of Northumberland and my Lord Mayor did their best
to make Queen Margaret*s reception expensive and splendid, but as they did
not produce any striking variation in their pageantry, it need not be dwelt
upon. The young Queen was received in the palace of the Archbishop of
York, after her fatiguing day was done. In the morning, that prelate led
her to high mass in York Minster. Margaret was gloriously attired in cloth
of gold on this occasion, her gown being belted with a precious girdle studded
with coloured gems ; the ends of her belt himg down to the ground ; her
necklace was very splendid, full of orient stones. As she went from the
palace to the Minster, the Countess of Surrey bore her train, and after them
followed her ladies, all very richly attired, in goodly gowns tied with great
gold chains or girdle belts, with the ends hanging down to the earth. When
mass was done. Queen Margaret gave reception in the great ante-room of the
Archbishop's Palace, holding a drawing-room, as it would be called in modem
phraseology. Here, my lady, the Countess of Northiunberland was pre-
sented to her, being weU accompanied with knights and gentlemen. The
young Queen of Scotland kissed her for the welcoming she gave her." Mar-
garet remained at York from Saturday till Monday, and was presented with
a silver cup ornamented with gold. Upon taking leave of the Corporation,
when she reached Clifton, on her journey northward, she made the following
coarteous but laconic speech ; " My Lord Mayor, your brethren, and all the
whole city of York, I shall evermore endeavour to love you, and this city, as
180 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
long as life itself." York was the second of the ten staple towns which
Heniy VU. established in England, with a view to the promotion of trade.
These ten towns were endowed with peculiar commercial privileges, as marts
where foreigners might find the commodities of the country in abundance.
During the remainder of the reign of this monarch the annals of York
contain no important transaction.
In 1509, Henry VIII., then only sixteen years of age, succeeded to the
throne on the death of his father. In the course of this year, or, according
to some authorities, in 1507, Hugo Bois, or Goes, the son of an ingeniooB
printer at Antwerp, established a printing press at York, being shortly after
the invention of printing, and contemporaneous with Wynkyn de Worde.
According to some, Bois had his press in the Minster yard, in or near St
William*8 College, on the same site upon which the royal printing presses
were erected in 164d, whilst Charles I. was at York ; but other accounts
state that Bois's press stood in Stonegate, in the house known as Mulberry
or Mowbray Hall.
William Caxton, a London merchant, who had attached himself to the
service of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of King Henry VU., and
had travelled much on the continent of Europe, first introduced the art of
printing into England, about the year 1474.* By the desire of his illustrious
patroness, Caxton contrived to make himself acquainted with the mechanism
of the art in Germany ; from which country he returned to England, pro
\ided with types, presses, &c,, which he erected in one of the chapels within
Westminster Abbey (encouraged by Thomas Milling, the then Abbot), sup-
posed by some to be the almonry, and there be produced the first specimen
of English typography. The " Game and Play of Chesse " was printed in
that year, and was the first book ever printed in these kingdoms. In a few
years after, the "mystery of printing," as it was then called, was introduced
into Oxford and St. Albans. The first specimen of Oxford workmanship ia
dated 1478, and the first book printed at St. Albans is dated 1480. York,
as we have seen, procured itself the advantage of the press in 1507 or 1500 ;
Cambridge in 1521 ; Tavistock in 1535 ; and Canterbury and other towns,
at periods considerably later. The press made very little progress in England
during the latter end of the 15 th and nearly the whole of the 16tk century.
The first complete version of the Bible was published on the 4th of October,
1535.
• Caxton died in 1491, and was buried in St. Margaret's ehuroh, Weatminster.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 181
York and the Ainsty contributed 500 men to the army that fought against
the Scots, under the Earl of Surrey, and gained the memorable yictory of
Flodden Field, on the 9th of September, 1618. In this battle James lY.,
King of Scotland, Henry's brother-in-law, was slain. His body was conveyed
to York, and there exposed to public view, till Henry's return from France,
when it was presented to him at Richmond, in Surrey.
In 1581 the city of York obtained an Act of Parliament " for amending
the rivers Ouse and Humber, and for pulling down and avoiding of fish-
garths, piles, stakes, and other things set in the said rivers." Previous to
this year there were fish-garths in these rivers, which were so injurious to
the tnule of York, by preventing the free passage of ships to that city, that
the Lord Mayor and commonalty petitioned Parliament for this Act, for the
removal of the obstructions.
In the d4th of this reign (1588), the price of provisions was fixed, as fol-
lows :-^beef and pork, at a halfpenny a pound ; veal and mutton, at a half-
penny and half a farthing > hens, a penny each ; geese, two-pence each ;
butter, sixpence a stone ; and cheese, eighteen-pence a stone ; with all other
articles in proportion. The shilling of that day was worth about five times
that sum in our present money.
The suppression of the monasteries, which commenced in 1585, excited a
great sensation in Yorkshire, and all throughout the northern counties.
Before this period, the King was a disputant on tenets of religion, with
Martin Luther, having written a book of controversy, still extant, entitled
" A Defence of the Seven Sacraments, by King Henry VLLL. ;" for the merit
of which the Pope and Sacred College granted him the distinguished title of
King Defender of the Faiths — " Rex Fidei Defensor." Thus it is clear that
Henry was originally a strenuous advocate of the Catholic church ; but the
Pope's refusal to grant him a divorce from his lawful wife, Catherine, excited
hie ire to such a pitch, that he resolved to try whether Acts of Parliament
did not possess the talismanic power of deputing or constituting himself head
of the church, instead of the Pope. Accordingly, in 1582, an Act was passed
for extinguishing the payment of Annates, or first-fruits to the see of Rome,
and was followed by another statute, prohibiting the Pope from interfering
in the nomination of Bishops; and the Pai*liament, which met in 1584,
ratified and established the King's claim of Supreme Head of the Church.
Acts were also passed for taking away the benefit of sanctuary ; for giving
the first-fruits to the King, and for making a provision for suffragan Bishops.
Having now proved the flexibility of his Parliament, and being either aware
that his revenues were not adequate to gratify his insatiable propensity for
183 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
diversions, feastiag, gaining, and public shows ; or, prompted by inordinate
avarice, he next turned his thoughts to the religious and charitable institu-
tions of the country, and first obtained an Act for the suppression of the
smaller monasteries.':' He afterwards ordered Articles of AlteratUms in Ba-
Ugioua Doctrines to be exhibited, and they were signed by 18 Bishops, 40
Abbots and Priors, 7 Deans, 17 Proctors, and 1 Master of a College. Most
of the larger monasteries were dissolved in 1540, and surrendered to the
King ; and thus the foundations, made by the piety and wisdom of our fore-
fiithers, for the benefit of religion, learning, and the reUef of the poor, lost
the stability of their settlements, and were laid at the mercy of a cruel, disso-
lute, and licentious monarch ; the " only Prince in modem times who carried
judicial murder into his bed, and imbrued his hands in the blood of those he
caressed."! No one surely can suppose that in Henry's newly-acquired taste
for sacrilege and church ^plunder, he had any regard for rehgion or Ghod's
honour ;| for, as Bishop Fisher truly said, " it is not so much the good as
the goods of the church, that he looked after." And although the confiscation
was a deserved vengeance, if the gifts of the pious founders were being
abused, yet it ** was an mcrease of guilt in the King and Parliament, who,
by not preventing the abuse, had made themselves partakers.in the sin."
In the reign of Henry V., York contained, besides the Cathedral, forty-one
parish churches, seventeen chapels, sixteen hospitals, and nine monasteries,
or convents, consequently the suppression of the religious houses inflicted a
terrible blow on the grandeur of that city. '*It cannot be denied," ob-
serves Drake, " that after the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry
Vm., with the chantries, chapels, hospitals, and other houses, for the
* Bishop Tanner, Notit., p. 23, says, that the Act for the suppression of the lesser
monasteries was passed about March, 1535. Spelman, in his Histoiy of Sacrilege, p.
183, tells us, that the bill stuck long in the House of Commons, and would not pass, till
the King sent for the members of that house, and told them he would have the bill
pass, or have some of their heads.
t Mc'Intosh's History of England.
I ** Men gave their lands, as they declared in the deed of gift, ' for the glory of God,'
and they charged what they so gave with the maintenance of masses ; if reformation had
been desired, this condition would have been repealed ; but this would not have gorged
that flfttal covetousness, which, by confiscating the endowments, ran headlong into the
guilt of sacrilege. But again, was all the confiscated property of the nature above
described? Our own experience can answer. Were the tithes (now impropriated) of
much more than half the parishes of England, given to superstitious uses ? Were the
glebe lands, and glebe houses, of our poor vicarages (now in the hands of laymen),
superstitious and unholy things 7 This part at least of the spoil was taken strictly fhxm
the clergy."— ^Tiffter/orw.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 183
sustenance of the poor, that this famous, and then flourishing city received a
terrible shock, by the tearing up of those foundations. No sooner was this
mandate given here, but down fell the monasteries, the hospitals, chapels,
and priories in this city, and with them, for company I suppose, eighteen
parish churches, the materials and revenues of all being converted to secular
uses."*
" The dissolution of the religious houses in England is one of the most
important events recorded in our national history," writes Mr. G. S. Phillips,f
in his OtUde to Peterborough Cathedral. ''It changed the whole aspect of civil
and ecclesiastical affairs, and produced an entire revolution in the scheme of
l^slation. Those institutions, which had prospered in our island for cen-
turies, were all rooted up and destroyed, and that too by the imperious fiat of
a monster, — ^second to none in infamy, cruelty, and crime. With a heart
brutalized by sensuality, — ^with feelings unacquainted with the common
sympathies of our nature, — and with passions unaccustomed to controul, —
Henry VIII. ascended the throne of England, a fit instrument for the perse-
cutions and horrors which he accomplished. He was brought up a Catholic,
and originally destined for the Boman church. When he ascended the
throne, he marri^ Catherine of Arragon, who was the reputed widow of his
brother Arthur. This event was hailed with joy by the people, and was
sanctioned by the papal authority. The reader will bear in mind the fact of
this marriage, as it was one of the chief causes of the revolutions which
we have just mentioned. The person whom Henry appointed his Prime
Minister was Wolsey, a man of low origin, but possessed of extraordinary
talent, which gave him immense influence with his Sovereign. It was he
who directed the movements of the whole machinery of the state ; and being
made a Cardinal by the Pope, exercised little less than absolute authority
over the religion of the country. The pomp and splendour of his retinue was
equal, if not superior, to that of the King. He held in his hands the des-
tinies of all the nobles by whom he was surrounded ; — ^his word was £Bite ; —
his will, law. It cannot be surprising, then, that a Catholic, possessed of
such vast influence, should have been the stay and bulwark of his religion;
and it is very probable that if Wolsey had never lived, Catholicism would
have had a shorter duration than it obtained in the reign of Henry; for men*s
actions are always obedient to the circumstances in which they are placed,
as the conduct of Henry will sufficiently testify.
• Eboracom, p. 286.
f Author of the Hfe of Wordtwarth, &c., and at present Lecturer to the Yorkshire
Union of Mechanics' Institutes.
184 GENERAL HISTOBY OF YORKSHIRE.
Hitherto then we perceive that Heniy and Catholicism were at peace. He
was not yet placed in that situation which afterwards made him declare war
against it. The continental Reformers only excited his destructiveness, and
Luther*s writings, which were making their way into England with an
astonishing rapidity, caused him to write a hook against the new doctrines
which Luther taught and promulgated. All these circimistances then were
working in favour of the Catholic rehgion: but the time was soon to
come, when more powerful influences were to operate upon the King, and
stronger motives were to direct his movements. Queen Catherine, who had
heen married to Henry a great number of years, at length displeased him ;
and he affected to have, at this remote period, such strong compunctions
about his marriage with her, on account of her being his brother s widow,
that nothing but a divorce could make him happy. The secret cause, how-
ever, of this sudden change, was discovered in his affection for Anne Boleyn.
In order to obtain the divorce, he applied to the Pope, who refusing to grant
it, Henry appealed to the Universities as a last resource, and they declared
his marriage with Catherine illegal. During this debate about the l^ality
of the marriage, sprung up Cranmer, the most weak, cruel, and bigoted of
Henry *s accompHces. It was he who divorced the Queen, and for this ser-
vice he was soon after appointed arbiter of civil and religious affairs. Wolsey
feU from power with the Queen ; for not daring to offend the Pope, and
relying on his influence with his Sovereign, he overreached himsdf, by
tampering with the King too long, — and ultimately fell a victim to his own
subtilty. Thus the principal support of the Catholic rehgion was lopped
away, and the King having been excommunicated by the Pope, set his
threats at defiance, — ^made a new creed for his subjects, and ordered Cranmer
to bum and destroy all who did not immediately become converts to it. He
finally threw off all submission to the Pope, and resolving to show how little
he regard^ his authority, he broke up all the monastic institutions of the
country, — ^robbed them of their wealth, — and put most of the monks to
death."
The Rev. John Tickell, in his History of Kingstofi'Upon-HtiU,* says, '*The
Monks were historians, the Abbots excellent landlords ; and in general they
were remarkable for an universal hospitality. In order, however, that the
suppression of the monasteries might be received with less concern, Heniy
made use of an artifice. He caused a report to be spread,! that the kingdom
was going to be invaded by several Princes, at the instigation of the Pope
• pp. 180, 181. f Stowe, p. ^76.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 185
and Cardinal Pole ; and he confirmed this report, by going in person to visit
the coasts, and commanding forts and redoubts to be erected in several places.
He likewise gave strict orders to fit out a strong fleet, and keep the troops in
readiness to march upon the first notice."*^ The King's intent, in all these
proceedings, was to convince the people that the Parliament would be obliged
to levy heavy taxes to resist the pretended invasion ; but that he, acquiiing
a large revenue by the suppression of the monasteries, would have no occasion
for such subsidies."!
The supporters of the confiscation painted, in most attractive colours, the
advantages of the bill, which vested in the crown " all the property, moveable
and immoveable, of the monastic establishments which either had already
been, or should hereaffcer be, suppressed, abolished, or surrendered." The
social condition of England was to undergo a vast transformation — ^pauperism
and taxation were to terminate — ^fiiture wars would be waged without any
additional burthens on the nation, and aU apprehensions of danger from
foreign hostility or internal discontent were to cease. How the future re-
alized the hopes of the royal parasites, except in enriching them at the
expense of the monasteries, history can tell. Pauperism soon flooded tbe
oountiy ; and the King, as we shall see, instead of diminishing the national
burthens, demanded compensation for the expenses he incurred in the re-
formation of religion ! Within twelve months after the religious houses were
despoiled he wrested two subsidies from Parliament. How the property of
the monasteries was spent we have accounts in the chroniclers of the day.
According to Bale, an ardent Eeformer, " a great part of this treasure was
tamed to the upholding of dice playing, masking, and banqueting — ^yea," he
continues, " I would I could not by just occasion speak it — ^bribing, wh ,
and swearing."
The annual rents of the 380 lesser establishments, which were dissolved
in 1585, amounted to £32,000. ; and the goods, lands, plate, <i^., belonging to
these houses, were valued at £100,000., but are said to have been worth three
times that sum. By the suppression of the greater monasteries, in 1540, tbe
King gained a revenue of more than £100,000. a year, besides large sums in
plate and jewels. The annual revenue of all the suppressed houses amounted
to £14d,014. 13s. O^d., about one-and-twentieth part of the whole rental of
the kingdom, if Hume be correct in taking that rental at three millions, as
the rents were then valued. Burnet says that they were at least ten times
as much in real value ; for the Abbots and Priors having some presentiment
« Bornet Lord Herbert f Stevens' History of Taxes, p. 210.
2 B
186 OENEBAL HISTOBT OF T0BX8HIBX.
of the impending stonn, had fixed the yearly rents reiy Iow» and ndaed the
fines very high, that they might have something to subsist on when they
should be expelled their houses. Besides the rents of the lands belonging to
the monasteries, Henry receiyed a considerable sum arising from the church
ornaments, plate, goods, lead, bells, and other materials, which he thought it
not proper to have valued at alL
Lord. Herbert, in his history of this rapacious monarch, tells us that many
of the visitors appointed to examine into the state of the monasteries,
petitioned the King that some few of them might be su£fered to remain
for the benefit of the country at huge ; the poor receiving from them great
relief^ and the rich good education for their children ; and Bishop Latimer
also earnestly entreated that, at least, two or three might be left standing
in every county, to be nurseries for charity, learning, preaching, study, and
prayer. But Cromwell, by the King's directions, invaded all, nor could he
be prevailed upon to leave one of them standing. Notwithstanding the
immense riches which Heniy had obtained from the suppressed Abbeys,
Friaries, Nunneries, and Monasteries, and which he pretended was not to be
converted to private uses, but to fill his exchequer and relieve his suljects,
who were led to believe that they should never hereafter be charged with
subsidies, fifteenths, loans, or other aids ; yet his illgotten wealth was very
soon lavished away, and the exchequer being reduced, he demanded subsidies
both of the clergy and laity. Accordingly, the Parliament, which sat in
November, 1545,1' granted him a subsidy of two shillings in the pound,
and the convocation of the province of Canterbury, granted him a continu-
ation of a former subsidy ai six shillings in the pound. Besides there were
yet in the kingdom several Colleges, Free Chapels, Chantries, Hospitals,
and Fraternities ; and as Henry had demanded a subsidy, this obsequious
Parliament, apprehensive that further demands might be made, very liberally
and generously gave them ail to him ; with all their sites, buildings, riches,
lands, possessions, &c., amounting to many thousand pounds a year. After
his compliant Parliament Jiad granted aU this, Heniy came to the House
and thanked his fedthful Commons for what they had done, telling them
** that never King was more blessed than he was ; and at the same time
he assured them that he should take proper caro for the supplying of the
ministers, for encouraging learning, and relieving the poor."t The Uni-
versities, however, it seems, rather suspected him; for they now made
application to him, that they might not be included in the Act of dissolution
« Bnmet f Ibid.
}
GENBBAL HISTOBT OF TOBSSHIBE. 187
of Colleges and Fraternities; and Dr. Coz, tator to the Prince of Wales,
irrote to secretary Paget, reqaesting bim to represent to the King the great
want of schoolsy preachers, and houses for orphans; ''that there were
TavenoQS wolyes about his Migesty, which would devour Uniyersities, Cathe-
drals, and Chantries,* and a thousand times as much, so that posterity
would wonder at such things ; he therefore desired that the Universities, at
leasti might be secured from their spoils.**! These solicitations produced
the desired effect; for Henry, by confirming the ancient rights of the
Universities, dispelled their fears, and assured them that their revenues
should remain untouched. By way of atonement for the havoc made in the
religious houses, in coigunction with other motives, partaking more of policy
than retribution, Henry erected six Bishops* Sees, on the ruin of as many of
the most opulent monasteries, and appropriated a part of their revenues to the
maintenance of the new prelates. But even these were at first so scantily
endowed, that the new prelates for some years ei\joyed little more than a
nominal income.^
To soften the odium of these measures, much has been said of the immo-
rality piaetisedt or supposed to be practised, within the monasteries. " It is
not in human nature,** writes Dr. Lingard, " that in numerous societies of
men, aU should be equally virtuous. The monks of difierent descriptions
amounted to many thousands ; and in such a multitude there must have
existed individuals, whose conduct was a disgrace to their profession. But
when this has been conceded on the one hand, it ought to be admitted on the
other, that the charges against them are entitled to very little credit They
were ex parte statements, to which the accused had no opportunity of replying,
and were made to silence enquiiy, and sanctify injustice. Of the com-
* It ma the eoitom, in andent times, for Lords 6f manors, and persons of wealth
and importaxiee, to build small ohapels or side aisles to their parish churches, dedicated
in honour of some ftTonrite saint, and these were endowed with lands sufficient for the
maintfinanoe of one or more ehantors or priests, who were to sing masses at the altar
araoted therein, tasr the soul of the founder and those of his ancestors and posterity;
these chantiy chapels senred also as a borial place for the founder and his fiunilj.
There were frequently many chantries in one church, and they were generally separated
from the rest of the church by a screen. Fuller says, " Chantries were A^ecHve$, not
able to stud by themselves, and therefore united, for their better support, to some pa-
foehial, ooUegittte, or cathedral church.'* Before the Beformation, much of the property
of the UniTersities was held on the condition of the performance of chantry services.
Free Chapelt, though endowed for the same use and service as chantries, were inde-
pendent of any church or other eodeeSastieal edifice. " They had more room for
priests," says Fuller, " and more priests for that room."
t Burnet { Jonmals, 113. Stiype, 1. Bee, 270. Hjmeir, ziv., 700, 710, Ac.
188 OENEBAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
missioners, some were not yexy immaculate characters themselves ; all were
stimulated to invent and exa^erate, both by the known rapacity of the Eing»
and by their own prospects of personal interest, "'i'
Mr. Thorn, in a small work called Bambles hy Bivert, says, ** There can
be little question that at the Reformation the monks had become more open
to censure than at any previous period. It is impossible to read the notices
of them that occur in writers of all descriptions without feeling this. Nor
can it perhaps be said that there was not need for some great change at the
time of the dissolution of monasteries. But in palliation of that measure
nothing can be said. It is the largest, coarsest, and most unprovoked robbery
that monarch ever committed on his subjects. Every reason put forward to
justify it was a plain untruth. From the beginning to the end, every step
taken was equally vile. Sometimes the detestable evidence, accumulated by
Henry's commissioners, is adduced in his favour ; but those commissioners
were the greatest scoundrels in this country, excepting their master."
The suppression of the religious institutions, and the appropriation of the
property of the church and the patrimony of the poor to ''the King's
Majesty's use ;" the turning out of so many priests, monks, nuns, sick and
aged people, to starve, or beg their bread, so exasperated the people of the
northern counties, who retained a strong attachment to the ancient doctrines,
that in 1536 a large multitude rose in open rebellion, and demanded the
redress of these grievances; that is, the re-establishment of the Catholic
religion, and the monastic institutions. The first who appeared in arms
were the men of Lincolnshire, under the guidance of Dr. Makerel, Prior of
Burlings, who had assumed the name of Captain Cobler; and so formidable
was their force, that the Duke of Suffolk, the royal commander, deemed it
more prudent to negociate than to fight In the five other counties, the
insurrection had assumed a more formidable appearance. From the borders
of Scotland to the Humber, the inhabitants had generally bound themselves
by oath to stand by each other.
Nor was the insurrection long confined to the common people. Bapin and
others tell us that the nobility and gentry, the former patrons of the dis-
solved houses, had joined the standard of revolt.! The Archbishop of York,
the Lords Neville, D*Arcy, Lumley, and Latimer; Sir Robert Constable, Sir
John Buhner, Sir Stephen Hamilton, Sir Thomas Percy, brother of the Earl
of Northumberland, and many other Knights and gentlemen of the north,
were amongst the insurgents. The real leaders seem not to have been
« Hist. Kng., voL vi., p. 266, fcp. 8vo. f Bapin, vol. i., p. 815.
OENE&AJL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 189
known, but the rebels, amounting in number to upwards of 40,000 men,
were under the nominal command of Bichard or Robert Aske, of Aughton, a
gentleman of considerable fortune and influence in Yorkshire ; and the enter-
prise was quaintly termed the Pilgrimage of Oracs. The oath taken by the
" Pilgrims " was, « that they should enter into this pilgrimage for the love
which they bore to Almighty God, his fiuth, the holy church, and the nudn-
tanance thereof; the preservation of the Kings person and issue; the
purifying of the nobility, and expulsion of villein blood and evil counsellors
from his grace and privy council ; not for any private profit, nor to do dis-
pleasure to any i^ivate person, nor to slay or murder through envy, but to
put away all lears, and to take afore them the Cross of Christ, his fiEdth, and
the restitution of the churoh, and the suppression of heretics and their
opLoions." On their banners were painted the Crucifixion of our Saviour,
and the chalice and host, the emblems of their belief. A number of ecclesi-
astics marched at the head of the, army, in the habits of their order, carrying
crosses in their hands, and wearing on their sleeves an emblem of the five
wounds of Christ, with the name of Jesus wrought in the middle. Wherever
the pilgrims appeared, the ^ected monks were placed in their monasteries,
and the inhabitants were compelled to take the oath, and to join the army.
Henry immediately issued commissions to several Lords to levy troops, but
from the backwardness of the people, the army was not sufficiently strong to
oppose the insurgents. Aske, in the meantime, did not remain iaactive. He
divided his army into separate divisions — one of which took possession of
Pontefinct Castle, whilst another division made themselves masters of the
city of York ; and a third, under the command of one Hallam, took Hull by
surprise. The strong castles of Skipton and Scarborough were preserved
by the courage and loyalty of the garrisons, l^e King issued a proclamation,
in which he told the rebels that they ought no more to pretend to give judg-
ment with regard to government, than a bliad man with regard to colours :
— " And we," he added, ** with our whole council, think it right strange that
ye, who are but brutes, and inexpert folks, do take upon you to appoint us,
who be meet or not for our council."
Aske, at the head of 80,000 men, then hastened to obtain possession of
Doncaster. The Earl of Shrewsbury, though without any commission,
armed his tenantiy, and threw himself into the town ; he was soon joined by
the Duke of Norfolk, the King's lieutenant, with a small army of 6,000 men,
and a battery of cannon was erected to protect the bridge. The Duke en-
camped near Doncaster, and entered into a negotiation with the rebels, who
had taken their stand at Scawsby Leas. On the dOth of October, 1536, the
190 6ENEBAL HI8T0BT OF TOBKSHIBE.
Duke sent a herald with a proclamation to the insurgents ; Aske, sitting in
state, with the Archbishop of York on the one hand, and Lord D'Aroy on the
other, gave the herald an audience, but on hearing the contents of the pro-
clamation, he refused to allow it to be published to the army. Henry, who
was now greatly alarmed, issued a proclamation, commanding all the nobility
to meet hiTn at Northampton. Meanwhile the insurgents advanced towards
the detachment commanded by the Duke of Norfolk, which was stationed to
defend the bridge which formed the pass between the two armies.* A most
fortunate circumstance for the King occurred at this juncture, the river Don,
which was fordable in several places, was now so swollen by a heavy rain
that it was impossible to effect a passage over it ; had it been otherwise, the
royal army must have been defeated ; though, under the circumstances, it is
impossible to say what might have been the consequence, for the Duke,
though entrusted with the command of the forces of the King, was averse to
the alterations made in religion, and it could not, therefore, be agreeable to
him to oppose men who were defending a cause which he secretly approved.
During these protracted negotiations, the King was enabled to strengthen
his army, which so alarmed many of the rebeb, that they, suspecting
they were betrayed by their leaders, withdrew themselves from the cause.
Wearied at length by the delays in the negotiation, the main body of the
rebels, which still remained in their camp, resolved to renew hostilities, and
to attack the royal army at Doncaster ; but this, however, was prevented by
another violent rain, which rendered the river impassable.
Henry now sent a general pardon for the insuigents who should lay down
their arms, excepting only ten persons, six of whom were named, and four
not named. This offer was r^ected, and after many delays and tedious
negotiations, the King proposed that the rebels should send deputies to treat
for peace. This proposal was accepted, and at a conference held at Don-
caster, on the 6th of December, the deputies made the following demands : —
1st — That a general pardon should be granted without any exception.
dnd. — ^That a Parliament should be held at York.
8rd. — ^That a Court of Justice should be erected there, so that the inhabi-
tants][of the northern counties should not be brought to London on any
lawsuit
4th. — That some Acts of the late Parliament, which were too grievous to
the people, should be repealed.
5th. — ^That the Princess Mary should be declared legitimate.
• Bapin, vol. i., p. 815. Hall, 280. Stowe, 674.
n
OENEBAL HI8T0BT OF YOBXSHIBE. 101
. 6th.— That the Papal authority should be re-established on its former
footing.
7th. — ^That the suppressed monasteries should be restored to their former
state.
8th. — ^That the Lutherans, and all innovators in religion, should be
seyerely punished.
0th. — ^That Thomas, Lord Cromwell; Audley, the Lord Chancellor; and
Rich, the Attorney General; should be removed from the Council, and
excluded from the next Parliament.
10th. — That Lee and Leighton, visitors of the monasteries, should be
imprisoned, and brought to account for their briberies and extortions.*
This conference broke up without producing any effect, but the Duke of
Norfolk advised the King to comply with, at least, some of their demands.
Henry therefore promised that their grievances should be patiently discussed
at the next Parliament, which, he agreed, was to be held tit York ; and he
also offered a general pardon to the rebels. Aske and the other leaders
accepted the King's offer, and the treaty being concluded, the insurgents
inmiediately dispersed. But Henry, freed from his apprehensions, neglected
to redeem his promise, and in less than two months the " Pilgrims " were
again in arms ; but the Duke of Norfolk, with a more numerous force over-
powered them, after they had fSedled in two successive attempts to surprise
Hull and Carlisle. Lord D*Arcy, Eobert Aske, and many other leaders
were taken, sent to London, and executed.! The Abbots of Fountains,
Jervaux, and Rivaulx, the Prior of Bridlington, and others, were executed at
Tyburn ; Sir Bobert Constable was hanged in chains, over Beverley gate, at
Hull; Aske was suspended from a tower, probably ClifiEbrd*s, at York;
D'Arpy was beheaded at Tower Hill, in London ; and seventy-four of the
officers were hung on the walls of Carlisle. The several rebellions which
occurred in the north having subsided, and the King's anger being satiated
with the blood of the chief rebeb, he issued out a general pardon to all the
northern counties, excepting, however, twenty-two persons, most of whom
were taken, and actually suffered in one place or another.
Ln the month of August, 1541, Henry, in order to quiet the minds of the
people, receive their submission, and reconcile them to his government, made
a progress to the north, accompanied by the Queen. Another motive for this
journey was, that he proposed to have a conference at York, with his nephew,
• BiQiin, vol. i, page 816.
f lingud** Englsnd, voL vi, p. d&7. Fop. 8to.
19d . GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
James Y., King of Scotland, in order to settle, if possible, a lasting peace."**
" On his entrance into Yorkshire, he was met with 200 gentlemen of the
same shire, in coats of velvet, and 4,000 tall yeomen and serving men, well
horsed, which, on their knees, made submission to him bj the month of Sir
Bobert Bowes, and gave to the King £900. On Bamsdale, the Archbishop
of York, with more than 300 priests, met the King, and, making a like sub-
mission, gave to him £600. The like submission was made by the Majors
of York, Newcastle, and Hull, and each of them gave the King £100."f
The Scottish nobility and ecclesiastics doubting the sincerity of Henry,
prevailed upon James to forego the proposed meeting; and thus disappointed,
the English monarch, after a sojourn of twelve days, left York abruptly on
the 39th of September. During his stay at York, he established a President
and Council in the city, under the great seal of Oyer and Terminer, which
continued till the reign of Charles I. The first President was Thomas, Duke
of Norfolk. The power of this court was to hear and determine all causes on
the north side of the Trent. In the same year. Sir John Neville, knt., and
ten other persons, were taken in rebellion, and executed at York.
Soon after the King aboHshed the papal authority in England, the clei^
were divided into two opposite factions, denominated the men of the old and
the new learning. Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, and Lee, Archbishop of
York, with the Bishops of London, Durham, and Bath and Wells, were at
the head of the former ; and the leaders of the latter were Cranmer, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury; Latimer, Bishop of Worcester; and Shaxton and Fox,
Bishops of Sarum and Hereford. And during the whole of the time, from
the commencement of the revolt, until the death of the King, the creed of the
church of England depended on the theological caprice of its supreme head.
Heniy*s infallibility continually oscillated between the two parties in the
church. His hostility to the court of Rome led him at times to incline to the
men of the new learning ; but his attachment to the ancient faith — ^which is
most manifest throughout the work — quickly brought him back. The leaders
of both parties, warmly as they might be attached to their own opinions, did
not aspire to the crown of martyrdom ; they were always ready to suppress,
or even to abjure, their real sentiments at the command of their wayward and
imperious master. Both parties carefully studied the inclinations of the
King, and sought by the most servile submission to win his confidence. In
1636, the head of the church, with the aid of his theologians, compiled certain
''Articles," which were ordered to be read to the people in the churches
• Hume, vol. iy., p. 188. f HolHnshed Cbron., 1682.
I
aENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 193
without Any oomment. The book of Articles may be divided into three parts.
The first declares that the belief in the three Creeds — the Apostles', the
Nicene, and the Athanasian — is necessary for salvation ; the second explains
the three great sacraments of Baptism, Penance, and the Holy Eucharist,
and pronounces them the ordinary means of justification ; and the third
teaches that, Hiough the use of images, the intercession of saints, and the
usual ceremonies in the service, have not in themselves the power to remit
sin, or justify the soul, yet they are highly profitable, and ought to be
retained. Heniy having, by these Articles, fixed the landmarks of English
orthodoxy, now ordered the convocation " to set forth a plain and sincere
exposition of doctrine " for the better information of his subjects. This task
was accomplished by the publication of a book, entitled, " The godly and
pious Institution of a Christian Man," — ^a work which was subscribed by all
the Bishops and dignitaries of the church, and pronounced by them to accord
"in all things with the true meaning of Scripture." It explains the Creeds,
the seven Sacraments, which it divides into three of a higher, and four of a
lower order, the ten Commandments, the Paternoster and Ave Maria, Justi*
fication, and Purgatory. It denies the supremacy of the Pope, and inculcates
passive obedienoe to the King ; and that Sovereigns are account^})le to God
fdone ; and it is chiefly remariiable for the earnestness with which it refuses
salvation to all persons out of the pale of the Catholic church. By way of
concession to the men of the new learning, as well as to replenish his coffers,
the King ordered a number of holidays to be abolished, shrines to be de-
molished, and superstitious relics to be burnt There is one proceeding in
connection with this order, which on account of its singularity and absurdity,
deserves attention.
In the reign of Henty 11., Thomas k Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury,
sometime Lord High Chancellor of England, and a great champion of the
rights ot the church, had been murdered in his own Cathedral by four gentle-
men in the King's service, who mistook for a command a rash expression of
their master.* The prelate was afterwards canonized by the Pope, and the
• The Archbishop having frequently given offence to the King, hj oppodng his designs
upon the rights and property of the church, the King, one day in a tran^ort of fiiiy,
cried out, and repeated several times, that " he cursed all those whom he had honoured
with his friendship, and enriched by his bounty, seeing none of them had the oonnge
to rid him oi one Kshop, who gave him more trouble than all the rest of his subjects."
Hearing these words, Sir William Tiaoy, Sir Hngh Morville, Sir Bichard Briton, and
Sir Reginald Fitz-Orson, " who," says Butler, " had no other religion than to flatter their
Prince,*' conspired privately to murder the Archlashop, and perpetrated the sacrilegious
act on the 29th of December^ lira
d 0
194 GENERAL HISTOBT OF TORKSHIBE.
anniversary of his martyrdom was consecrated to God in honour of the saint.
It was now suggested to Heniy VILL., that so long as the name of St. Thomas
of Canterbury should remain in 4he calendar, men would be stimulated by
his example to brave the ecclesiastical authority of their Sovereign. The
King's attorney was therefore instructed to exhibit an information against
*' Thomas Becket, sometime Archbishop of Canterbury ;" and that individual
was formally cited to appear in court, and answer to the charge. The saint
having neglected to quit the tomb, in which he had reposed for more than
three centuries and a half, would have been decided against for default, had
not the King, by his special grace, assigned him a counsel. The court sat
at Westminster ; the Attorney-General and the advocate of the accused were
heard ; and sentence was finally pronounced that Becket had been guilty of
rebellion, contumacy, and treason ; that his bones should be publicly burnt,
and that the offerings which had been made at his shrine should be forfeited
to the crown.'i' The sentence was executed in due form ; and the gold, silver,
and jewels, the spoils obtained by the demolition of the shrine, were conveyed
in two ponderous coffers to the royal treasury. A proclamation was after-
wards published, stating that forasmuch as it now clearly appeared that
Thomas Becket had been killed in a riot excited by his own obstinacy, and
had been canonized by the Bishop of Rome, the King's M^esty thought it
expedient to declare that he was no saint, but rather a rebel and traitor to
his Prince, and therefore commanded that he should not be esteemed or called
a saint ; that all images and pictures of him should be destroyed ; the fes-
tivals in his honour be abolished, and his name and remembrance be erased
out of all books, under pain of imprisonment.t Henry, like all other Re-
formers, made his own judgment the standard of orthodoxy ; and he executed
the laws against those who differed £rom him, tnth equal rigour, both before
and after his quarrel with the court of Rome. Before that event the teachers
of Lollardism excited his ire ; and after it he was not less eager to light the
faggot for the punishment of heresy. A number of German Anabaptists
landed in England in 1586 ; they were instantly apprehended, and fourteen
of them, who refused to recant, were condemned to the flames. In 1588
more missionaries of the same sect followed, and a similar fate was awarded
to them. Even Henry's own relations and friends were sacrificed on the plea
of high treason or heresy. Even Cromwell, his Vicar-G^neral and factotum,
who, by cunning and servility, had raised himself from the shop of a fuller
to the Earldom of Essex, and the highest seat in the House of Lords, died
on the scaffold.
• Wilk. Con., iii, 896-6. f lUd, 641.
QEKEIUL HISTOBT OF TOBKSHIRE. 195
In 1541 the King published dx articles of belief, in the fonn of an Act of
Parliament. The 1st article declared that in the Blessed Eucharist is really
present the natural body of Christ, under the forms and without the substance
of bread and wine. 3nd. That communion under both kinds is not necessary
ad sdkOem, drd. That priests may not marry by the law of God. 4th. That
Yows of chastity are to observed. 5th. That private masses ought to be
retained. And 6th. That the use of auricular confession is expedient and
necessary. This statute declares that if any person preach, write, or dispute
against the first article, he shall not be allowed to abjure, but shall suffer
death as a heretic ; or if he preach, write, or speak openly against any of the
other fiye, he shall incur the usual penalties of felony. Thus it appears that
Henry was still opposed to the Lutheran doctrines of Justification by Faith
alone, &c. By law the Catholic and Protestant were now placed on an equal
footing, in respect to capital punishment. If to admit the papal supremacy
was treason, to reject the papal creed was heresy. The one could be expiated
only by the halter and the knife ; the other led the offender to the stake and
the faggot. On one occasion Powel, Abel, and Featherstone had been at-
tainted for denying the supremacy of the King ; Barnes, Garret, and Jerome,
for maintaining heterodox opinions — ^they were now coupled. Catholic and
Protestant, on the same huHxUes ; drawn together from the Tower to Smith-
field, and while the former were hanged and quartered as traitors, the latter
were consumed in the flames as heretics.
The King had formerly sanctioned the publication of an English version
of the Bible, and granted permission to aU his subjects to peruse it ; but in
1548, he had discoyered that the indiscriminate reading of the holy volumes
had not only generated a race of teachers who promulgated doctrines the
most strange and contradictory, but had taught ignorant men to discuss the
meaning of the inspired writings in alehouses and taverns, till, heated with
controversy and liquor, they burst into ii\jurious language and provoked each
other to breaches of the peace. And in his last speech to the Parliament,
he complained bitterly of the religious dissensions which pervaded every
parish in the realm. After observing that it was partly the fault of the
^rgy, some of whom were " so stiff in their old mumpsimus, and others so
busy in their new sumpsimus," instead of preaching the word of God, they
weie employed in railing at each other ; and partly the fault of the laity, who
delighted in censuring the proceedings of the clergy, he said : " If you know
that any preach perverse doctrine, come and declare it to some of our council,
or to us, to whom is committed by God the authority to reform and order
such causes and behaviours; and be not judges yourselves of your own
106 GENERAL HIBTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
fimtastical opinions and vain expositions ; and although you be permitted to
read holy scripture, and to have the word of God in your mother tongue, you
must imderstand it is licensed you so to do, only to inform your conscience^
and inform your children and families, and not to dispute, and to make
scripture a railing and taunting stock against priests and preachers. I am
very sorry to know and hear,'* he added, '* how irreyerently that precious
jewel, the word of God, is disputed, rhymed, sung, and jingled, in every ale-
house and tavern, contraiy to the true meaning and doctrine of the same ;
and yet I am as much sorry, that the readers of the same follow it in doing
so faintly and coldly. For of this I am sure, that charity was never so faint
among you, and virtuous and godly living was never less used, nor God
himself among you never less served."*
Tyndal's and Coverdale's versions of the Bible were this year (1543) ordered
to be disused altogether, as "crafty, false, and untrue;" and permission
to read the authorised translation, without note or comment, was confined
to persons of the rank of lords or gentlemen. A new work was published in
the same year, with the title of " A necessary Doctrine and Erudition for
any christned Man," or the "^ Eing^s Book." This book, the composition of
which occupied two committees of prelates and theologians for three years,
contains a more full exposition of the doctrines to be taught, than that given
in a previously published book, called " The Institution," with the addition
of Transubstantiation, and the sufficiency of communion under one kind.
The doctrines contained in this book were approved of by both houses of con-
vocation ; and the Archbishop ordered them to be studied and followed by
every preacher.
Towards the latter end of his reign, Heniy became more arbitraiy, both
in spirituals and temporals. The Archbishops of Ganterbuiy and York,
the Bishop of London, and several other prelates, were obliged to make
conveyances in his favour, of many manors belonging to their difilnreiit
dioceses, upon veiy slight considerations, and these deeds were confirmed by
Parliament.!
The Bang, who had long indulged, without restrednt, in the pleasures of
the table, at last became so enormously corpulent, that he could neither^sup-
port the weight of his own body, nor remove without the aid of machineiy
into the different apartments of his palace. Even the fatigue of subscribing
his name to the writings which required his signature, was more than he
could bear ; and three commissioners were appointed to perform that duty.
• Hall, p. 160. + Vide the Act 37th HeDTy VIH., c. 16.
aKNBBAL HISTOBY OF TOBSSHIBE. 197
An inveterate ulcer in the ihigh, whicli bad mote than once threatened his
life, and which now seemed to baffle all the skill of bis surgeons, added to
the irascibility of his temper ; and in the latter part of the year 1646, his
health was rapidly declining. In his last illness, according to one account,
be was constantly attended by his confessor, the Bishop of Rochester, beard
mass daily in his chamber, and receiyed the communion under one kind ;
another account states that he died in the anguish of despair ; and a third
represents him revising spiritual aid till be could only reply to the exbortation
of the Archbishop by a squeeze of the baud. As the awful hour of bis disso-
lution approached, we are told by Burnet, that he became more froward,
imperious, and untractable, than erer. His courtiers durst not remind bim
of the change be was shortly to undeiigo, or desire him to prepare himself for it.
At length, Burnet says. Sir Anthony Denny had the courage and honesty to
disclose it to him ; the King expressed bis sorrow for the sins of his past life,
and said be trusted in the mercies of Christy which were greater than his
sins. He died at Westminster, on Friday, the 28th of January, 1547, in the
66th year of his age, and d8th of his reign, leaving behind him the terrible
character, that throughout his long reign be neither spared man in his anger,
nor woman in his lust. By bis will he provided lor the interment of his
body, the celebration of masses, and the distribution of alms for the benefit
of bis souL* This will is now deposited in the Chapter House, Westminster.
Henry VUi. was succeeded on the throne by his only son Edward VI.,
(by Jane Seymour, bis third Queen), being then just nine years old. His
coronation was solemnized on the 30th of the Ibllovnng month (Februaiy), a
new form having been drawn up for it, by bis uncle, the Duke of Somerset,
now called the Lord Protector, and the ceremony was concluded with a
solemn high mass sung by Archbishop Oranmer.f Somerset, and the other
guardians of the youthful monarch, were favourable to the new doctrines,
and to the professors of the new learning, though they deemed it prudent to
• The body of Henry lay in state in the chapel of "Whitehall, which was hang with
black cloth; eighty large wax tapers were kept constantly burning; twelve lords monmers
sat around within a rail; and every day masses and a dirge were performed. At the
commencement of the service, Norroy, King-at-arms, called aloud : " Of your charity,
pray for the soul of the high and mighty Prince, our late Sovereign Lord, Heniy YIII.**
On the 14th of February the body was removed to Sion House, on the 19th to Windsor,
and the next day was interred in the midst of the choir, near the body of Jane Seymour.
Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, preached the sermon, and read the Amend service,
which eondudfid with the Psahn '* De profimdis." See Sandford, 402 ; Stzype, 2; Beo.
lii., 17; Hajwaard, 276.
f Stiypa'a Gnnmer, p. 144.
198 aSKEBiX HISTORY OF TOBKSHIBS.
conceal such predilection during the life time of Heniy ; and now that they
were freed from restraint, they openly professed themselves the patrons of
the new Gospel. They now undertook to establish a different religious creed ;
with that view they entrusted the education of Edward to the most zealous
though secret partisans of the reformed doctrines ; and in a short time the
royal pupil beUeved that the worship so rigorously enforced by his fiftther
was idolatrous. The diffusion of the '' new learning " was now aided by all
the influences of the crown. The zeal of the King*s guardians was the more
active, as it was stimulated by the prospect of reward ; for though they were
the depositories of the sovereign authority, they had yet to make their
private fortunes; and the church, notwithstanding the havoc which had
been made in its possessions during the last reign, had yet some gleanings
left. Accordingly, Edward's first Parliament, held in the first year of his
reign, caused a survey and inquisition to be made and taken, of all the lands
designed for the maintenance of Chantries, Free Chapels, and Colleges, which
had not been fully effected in the reign of his father, and all the revenues
given for obits, anniversaries, lights m churches, together with all the lands
belonging to Guilds or Fraternities, on the same account* This Act did not
pass without great difficulty ; Cranmer and others of the Reformers opposed
it, knowing well, that when once these revenues were in the Sovereign's
hands, the church would be deprived of them for ever ; and they (the Re-
formers) hoped for some favourable opportunity to convert them to uses
beneficial to the reformed religion. The people, too, in general continued to
murmur at these proceedings. Many towns petitioned against them. We
have not met with the record of a petition from the city of York, on the
subject; but the people of Hull petitioned and complained, "That the
church was ruined, the clergy beggared, all learning despised, and that the
people began to grow barbarous, atheistical, and rude.f
• For Chantries and Free Chapels, See noU at foot of page 187. The Ohit was the
anniversaiy of any person's death ; and to observe such a day, with prayer, alms, or other
commemorations, was called the keeping of the obit Anniversaries were similar to the
obits, inasmuch as they were the yearly retnms of the death of persons, which the
religions registered in their obitual or martyrology, and annnally observed in gratitude
to their founders and beneflBu^tors. Ouild signifies a fraternity or society, many of which
existed formerly for religions or charitable purposes. The name is derived from the
Saxon, Gildan, to pay, because every member paid something towards the exx>ense8 of
the society.
f Becords of Hull. It mast be ever lamented that the destroyers of the religions
houses did not spare the learning of the nation, collected through so many eentaries,
and deposited in the lifararies of these' institutioitB. No-— all was sacrificed during the
OSKBBAL HI8T0BT OE T0BE8HIBE. 199
Finding that they ware likely to be disappointed in their expectations, the
lapacious coortierB induced the joung King, either to give to them, or other-
vise to sell greatly below their real value, most of these forfeited houses, and
to p^y the said endowments out of the Crown's revenues, as is done, in part at
least, even to this day. There was a clause in the Act, importing that these
revenues should be converted to the erecting and maintenance of Grammar
Schools, and to the better provision for preachers, curates, and readers ; and
this seems, in part, to have been put in practice, for many schools in dif-
lierent parts of the kingdom were founded at that period, and mostiy endowed
out of the Chantry lands, disposed of as they had been at so much below
their value. By this Act 90 Colleges, 110 Hospitals, and 3,784 Chantries
and Free Chapeb, were destroyed.
In the beginning of this year (1548) the council made great alterations in
ckorch offices. By an order, dated January the 28th, carrying candles on
Candlemas day ; making the sign of the cross on the forehead with ashes on
Ash Wednesday ; and bearing palms on Palm Sunday, were forbidden ; as
also were the rites used on Good Friday and Easter Sunday. Confession
was left optional, and it was ordered that all images and pictures should be
removed iiom churches. In the Parliament which met on the d4th of
November, in the same year, a bill was introduced for the purpose of autho-
rizing the uses of a new liturgy, or a book of common prayer, in the English
language, which had been compiled by Cranmer and Holgate, Archbishops
of Canterbury and York, and upwards of twenty other commissioners. This
bill, which imposed very serious penalties upon any minister who should
refuse to use it, or who should preach or speak in derogation of it, passed
through the lower house without much difficulty ; but in the higher house it
met with a warm opposition. It was carried however by a minority of 31 to
11. The non-contents were the Earl of Derby, the Bishops of London,
Durham, Norwich, Carlisle, Hereford, Worcester, Westminster, and Chi-
chester, and the Lords Dacres and Wyndsor.^t*
Though the new liturgy was compiled chiefly from the Roman Missals and
exterminating period, which put an end to the existence of the Catholio church as a
national establishment Mannscripts, which can never be renewed, were consigned to
profime uses ; whole ship loads were transported to the continent; histoiy, topography,
biography, records, were alike bartered for a hase equivalent, and petty tradesmen were
ftimiahed with paper for common purposes, which was worth its weight in gold. — CoU.
EecL Hitft., vol. iL Bale asserts, that he knew a merchant, who received as many manu-
soripta ftom monastto lihmries for iOs. as would serve him for all the purposes of his
busmass for twenty years.
• The King's Joonud, 6. Jooxnals, 881. Stvype, ii., p. 84.
200 QEKEBiLL HISTOBY OF TORKBHIRE.
Breviaries (such parts being omitted as were deemed objectionable, and nu-
merous additions and corrections introduced, to meet the wishes of the new
teachers, without shocking the belief or the prejudices of their opponents),
yet such was the attachment of the people to the ancient service, that in
many counties they rose in open rebellion against it. Insurrections broke
out almost at the same time in the counties of Wilts, Susses, Surrey, Bucks,
Hants, Berks, Kent, Gloucester, Somerset, Devon, Oxford, Norfolk, Essex,
Suffolk, Hertford, Leicester, Rutland, Worcester, and other counties. These
rebellious risings, some of which were very formidable, were finally suppressed
with the aid of the foreign troops — ^the bands of adventurers that had been
raised on the continent to serve in the war against Scotland. In connection
with these risings was an insurrection at Seamer, near Scarborough, in the
second year of this reign. It was promoted by William Dale, the parish
clerk ; William Ambler, or Ombler, of East Haslerton, yeoman ; and John
Stevenson, of Seamer. They set fire to the beacon at Staxton in the night,
and thereby assembled a rude mob, to the number of 3,000, whose avowed
object was the restoration of the ancient faith.
This rabble, before they were suppressed, committed several outrages ; a
party of them went at night to the house of a person named White, and
seizing him and all who were in the house, carried ihem to the wolds near
Seamer, where they stripped and murdered them. Many apprehensions
were at that time entertained that their numbers might swell to a formidable
body, for discontent was pretty genend among the people ; but the Lord
President of the North sent a detachment from York against them, and the
King issued a proclamation, offering a general pardon to all who would sub*
mit; on which the greater number of them immediately di^rsed, but the
leaders were apprehended 4uid executed at York.
Among the other changes in the forms and ceremonies of religion, in 1648,
was the total abdition of Sanctuaries. In 1552 altars were ordered to be re-
moved £rom churches, and tables substituted; and in the same year the
marriage of priests was declared good and vaUd.
In 1551 the city of York suffered considerably from a severe nondescript
epidemic, called the Sweating Sickness, which extraordinaiy disease was then
prevalent in England. This Mghtful plague made its first appearance at
Shrewsbury on the 15th of April, in this year, and spreading towards the
north, continued till the month of October following. People in perfect
health were the most liable to be seized with it, and, in the beginning of the
distemper, it was almost certain death in a few hours. Stowe instances its
awful fatality, by seven housdiolders, indio all supped cheerfully together over
r
I
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 201
mght, but before eight o'clock the next morning, six of them were dead. So
great was the fear generally excited by tliis alarming disorder, that great
numbers fled out of the kingdom, hoping to escape the contagion ; but, how-
ever incredible it may appear, the most veritable historians positively assure
us> that the evil followed them, and was peculiar to the English ; for, in
various parts of the continent, though breathing a purer air, amongst men of
different nations, the infection seized them, and them only. It first mani-
fested itself in a sudden chilliness, immediately followed by violent perspiration,
which brought on sleep, and terminated in death. Few escaped who were
attacked with full stomachs. How many died in York of this singular dis-
temper is not known, but it appears in Mr. Hildyard*s collections that the
mortality was great.* This disease, says HoUinshed, made the nation begin
to repent, and give alms, and remember God, from whom that plague might
weU seem to be sent, as a scourge for the sins of the people ; but the im-
pression, it seems, very soon wore out ; for as the contagion in time ceased,
80, continues he, our devotion decayed.
In the beginning of the year 1658, the King was seized with an illness,
which ended in a consumption, of which he died on the 6th of July following,
in the 16th year of his age, and 7th of his reign. During his illness, the
rapacious courtiers not yet content with the spoils of the church which they
had received, prevailed upon him to sign an order for visiting the churches,
to examine what riches, plate, or jewels, belonged to them in general ; and
to seize all the superfluous plate, ornaments, and Unen, for the alleged
purpose of providing for the poor. "Calling in these superfluous orna-
ments," says the Rev. J. Tickell, " which lay in the churches more for pomp
than use, and converting them into money to be given to the poor, deserved
no blame ; but the misfortune was, the poor had by much the least share of
it, the greater part being appropriated to other uses."f
When Mary, the daughter of Henry VILL. and Catherine of Arragon, and
a Catholic, ascend^ the throne, in 1558, things were in great confusion, as
might be expected, in consequence of the sacrilegious robberies and spoliations
committed by her licentious fsither and his harpies ; and in the endeavour to
restore the plundered property, as well as the ancient fEuth, many cruelties
were perpetrated in her reign. She certainly had great difficulties to en-
counter, considering the task which she had taken upon herself to perform ;
for although her ministers professed deep sorrow for what had been done, and
implored forgiveness, yet, such as were in possession of the spoils of the
* Drake's Eboracum, p. 128. f HiBtory of Hull, p. 217.
2 D
'HOii GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
monasteries, held them with an iron grasp ; they liked not that paying back
again — ^it was double trouble.
In the first Parliament of this reign (held soon after the accession of the
Queen) all the statutes with regard to religion, which had been passed during
the reigns of her father and brother, were repealed, so that the national
religion was again placed on the same footing on which it stood at the death
of Henry Yin. Intrigues were now set afoot, and fomented by the Eeformed
preachers. In the same year a marriage was projected between the Queen
and Philip, Prince of Spain, and son of the celebrated Emperor Charles V.
An insurrection ensued, headed by Sir Thomas Wyat, the object of which
was to force Mary to marry Courtenay, the young Earl of Devon (whom she
had recently liberated from the Tower, to which he had been confined from
his infancy by the jealousy of his father and brother) ; and failing in that,
the conspirators resolved that he, in defiance of the Queen's authority, should
marry the Princess Elizabeth, and repair with he|r to Devonshire and Corn-
wall, where the inhabitants were devoted to his family ; and where he would
find the Duke of Suffolk, the Earl of Pembroke, and many other Lords ready
to join his standard. These and other plans were suggested and discussed,
but Courtenay, though ambitious, was timid and cautious, and all their
attempts failed. Of the participation in the treason of the insurgents of the
Princess Elizabeth, there could hardly exist a doubt ; and for several weeks
Renard, the Spanish ambassador, endeavoured to extort the Queen's consent
that the Princess should be condemned, and sent to the scaffold. She was a
competitor for the crown, he argued; she had accepted the offer of the rebels,
and ought to suffer the penalty of her treason. However, that Queen, to
whom we are accustomed to apply the opprobrious epithet of " bloody," dis-
regarded these and other weU-founded arguments, and contented herself by
proposing to her council that some one of her Lords should take chaise of
the Princess in a private house in the country ; but no man being found
willing to incur the responsibility, she was sent to the Tower, and afterwards
to Woodstock. Some of the leaders of this rebellion, including Wyat, were
condemned and executed ; others obtained pardon, and out of 400 taken iu
the act of rebellion, but sixty suffered the penalty of their crime. A learned
and impartial historian justly observes, that if on this occasion sixty of the
insurgents were sacrificed to the justice and resentment of Mary, we shall
find in the next reign, that after a rebellion of a less formidable aspect^
some hundreds of victims were required to appease the offended Ms^esty of
her sister. And if we look at the conduct of government after the rebellions
of 1715 and 1745, we shall not find that the praise of superior lenity is due
to more modem times.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 308
During the insurrectioii referred to (which was chiefly confined to the
oountj of Kent) a party of the insurgents attempted, hy stratagem, to take
the castle of Scarborough, which at the time was but slightly garrisoned.
Mr. Thomas Stafford, second son of Lord Stafford, collected some fugitives
in France, which he disguised in the habits of peasants and countrymen, and
took with him to Scarborough on a market day, under the most unsuspicious
appearances. He, with about thirty of his little troop, strolled into the
castle, at intervals, with a careless air, apparently to gratify their curiosity.
Embracing a favourable opportunity, they, at the same moment, secured the
different sentinels, took possession of the gate, and admitted their remaining
companions, who, under the exterior gari> of countrymen, had concealed
arms. They retained possession of the castle, however, but for three days,
for the Earl of Westmorland, with a considerable force, recovered it without
loss. Mr. Stafford was, on -account of his quality, beheaded ; and three
other of the leaders, Strelley, Bradford, and Proctor, were hanged and quar-
tered ; hence the origin of *' A Scarborough warning ; a word and a blow,
and the blow comes first.*'
On the festival of St James, in A. D. 1554, the marriage of Philip and
Maiy was celebrated, in the Cathedral Church of Winchester, before crowds
of the nobility of every part of Christendom, and with a magnificence which
has seldom been surpassed.* And in the Parliament which assembled in
the same year the Papal supremacy was restored, and the Church of England
was re-united with that of Rome. The motion for the re-union was carried
almost by acclamation. The dissolution of this Parliament was followed by
an unexpected act of grace. The Lord Chancellor and several members of
the council proceeded to the Tower, and, in the name of the King and Queen,
rdeased the state prisoners still confined on account of the insurrection of
Northumberland and Wyat.
From the sufferings of the Reformers, or the men of the " new learning,*'
in the reign of Heniy VULl., it might perhaps have been expected that they
would have learned to respect the rights of conscience ; but experience
proved the contrary. They had no sooner obtained the' ascendancy during
the short reign of Edward, than they displayed the same persecuting spirit
which they had formerly condemned.
Unhappily this was an age of religious intolerance, when to punish the
professors of erroneous doctrine was inculcated as a duty, no less by those
who r^ected than by those who asserted the Papal authority ; and this is
* See a Aill description of the ceremony, in Bosso, p. 61.
204 OEKERAX HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
equally true of foreign religionists.'^' Archbishop Cranmer had compiled a
code of ecclesiastical discipline for the government of the Reformed church, by
which it was declared to be heresy to beUeve in Transubstantiation, to admit
the Papal supremacy, or to deny Justification by Faith only ; and it was or-
dained that individuals accused of holding such heretical opinions should be
arraigned before the spiritual courts, should be excommunicated on conviction,
and after a respite of sixteen days, should, if they continued obstinate, be
delivered to the civil magistrate, to suffer the punishment provided by law.
Fortunately for the professors of the ancient faith, Edward died before the
new canon law obtained the sanction of the legislature.
By the accession of Mary the sword passed into the hands of the men of
the '' old learning," and Cranmer and his associates perished in the flames
which they had prepared for the destruction of their opponents. After the
passing of the Act for reuniting the churches, the Reformed preachers acted
in numerous instances with great imprudence, and really provoked chastise-
ment by the intemperance of their zeal. Fanaticism became rampant, and
a new conspiracy was organized in the counties of Cambridge, Suffolk, and
Norfolk, and then the storm burst on their heads ; and if anything could be
urged in extenuation of the cruelties which they afterwards suffered, it is the
provocation given by themselves. They heaped on the Queen, her Bishops,
and her religion, every indecent and irritating epithet which language could
supply. Her clergy could not exercise their functions witiiout danger to
their lives. A dagger was thrown at one priest in the pulpit ; a gun was
discharged at another ; and several wounds were inflicted on a third, while
he administered the communion in his church. Some congregations prayed
for the death of the Queen ; and tracts of the most libellous and abusive
character were transmitted from the exiles in Germany ; and successive in-
surrections were planned by the fugitives in France. " For the better pre-
servation of the peace of the realm," several of the preachers, with the most
zealous of their disciples, were tried and executed for heresy ; and amongst
them, Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, each of whom had been concerned in
the rebellion of Wyat. Many of the Reformed clergy sought an asylum in
foreign cUmes ; but the Lutheran Protestants refused to receive them, styling
them heretics, because they rejected the corporeal presence of Christ in the
Eucharist. They, however, met a cordial reception from the disciples of
Calvin and Zuinglius, and obtained permission to open churches in Stras-
burg, Frankfort, Geneva, Zurich, Basle, and Aran.
• See Calvin, de supplicio Sen'eti ; Beza, de Hecriticus a civili niagistratu puniendis ;
and MelancthoD, in locis Com., c. xxxii., de Ecclesin.
OENERAIi HISTOHY OF TORESHIRE. S05
The Reformed writers have described in glowing colours the sufferings, and
sought to multiply the number of the victims of persecution in this reign ;
while the CathoHcs have maintained that the reader should distrust the
exaggerations of men heated with enthusiasm, and exasperated by oppression.
The most impartial writers state that, after expunging from the catalogue of
the martyrs the names of all who were condemned as felons or traitors, or
who died peaceably in their beds, or who survived the pubhcation of their
martyrdom, or who would for their heterodoxy have been sent to the stake by
Reformed prelates themselves, had they been in possession of the power, the
number of persons that suffered for religious opinion in the space of four
years, was nearly 200. And yet these deductions and allowances take but
little from the infamy of the measure. The persecution continued at intervals
till the death of Mary, which occurred in 1658. Her successor on the throne
was the Princess Elizabeth, another daughter of Henry VIII., by his second
wife, Anne BuUeyn, or Boleyn.
In this reign the Protestant rehgion was re-established, and the Catholics
again became an object of persecution. Those who denied the supremacy of
the Queen suffered for it.
Mr. Phillips, in his little work on Peterborough Cathedral, ahready quoted,
says, "We must now say a few words about this * Good Queen Bess,' as her
fraudulent historians call her. Indeed we cannot let this opportunity pass
of shewing Elizabeth in her true colours. It is a duty which every writer
owes to the public. Be it known then, that during the reign of her sister
Maiy, Elizabeth professed to be a most zealous Catholic. She attended
mass, and could count her beads with the rapidity and devotion of a saint.
Yet, notwithstanding these outward appearances. Queen Mary knew the
treachery and deception of her sister s heart, and was never confident of her
actions. She long suspected her sister's conduct, and when dying, requested
that Elizabeth would no longer deceive her as to her real character. With a
great oath, Elizabeth said, she hoped ' the earth would open and swaUow her
up, if she were not in heart and soul a Cathotic' No sooner, however, was
Elizabeth, Queen, than she declared herself a Protestant, and began her reign
by dismissing from office all those who were not after her way of thinking.
It would require too much space to write out a fair statement of Elizabeth's
character in this work ; if, however, the blackest perjury — ^the most base and
open licentiousness'*' — ^the most horrid sacrifices to the Protestant faith — ^the
* There is a law yet unrepealed in the statute book, which Elizabeth caused to be
passed in her reign, which enacts, that all her naturcd children should be heirs to the
throne, by whomsoever begotten.
206 OEKEBAL HISTOBT OF YORKSHIRE.
cruelest hatred and persecution of a young and lovely Queen, who threw
herself upon Elizabeth for protection — ^if imprisoning her for upwards of
eighteen years for an alleged crime, of which she had no right to be an
arbiter, and the final murder of that Queen, are sufficient virtues to make
Elizabeth worthy the commendation of posterity — ^we wUl leave her to their
homage, and smother the indignation which the black catalogue of her crimes
arouses within us."
In the second session of Parliament in this reign, the obligation of taking
the oath of supremacy (the administration of which had hitherto been con-
fined to persons seeking preferment in the church, or accepting office under
the crown) was extended to others ; and the first refusal was made an offence
punishable by premunire, and the second by death, as in cases of treason.
This measure, which evidentiy aimed at the total extinction of the ancient
creed, met with considerable opposition from many Protestants, who ques-
tioned both its justice and its policy ; but after a long struggle it was carried
by the efforts of the ministers ; and had its provisions been strictiy carried
into execution, the scaffolds in every part of the kingdom would have been
drenched with the blood of the sufferers. The convocation, which had as-
sembled, according to ancient custom, at the same time with the Parliament,
now drew up a new creed, chiefly foimded upon that formerly published by
the authority of Edward YI. This important work, called the Thirty-nins
Artklesy as they now exist, received the subscriptions of the two houses of
convocation in 1562. But what a strange and inconsistent being is man !
The framers of the Thirty-nine Articles could not have forgotten the perse-
cution of the last reign — ^many of them having suffered imprisonment or exile
£or their dissent from the established church ; and yet, as if they had suc-
ceeded to the infallibility which they condemned, they refused to others the
liberty of religious choice which they had arrogated to themselves. Instead
of considering the newly drawn up articles, as merely the distinguishing
doctrines of the church, recentiy established by law, they laboured to force
them upon the consciences of others, by making it a crime, subject to the
penalties of heresy, to question their truth. But the attempt was opposed by
the council, as being unnecessary as far as regarded Catholics, since they
could at any moment be brought to the scaffold under the Act of Supremacy.
The cruel penal laws enacted in this reign for the extirpation of the Catholic
religion, awarded the punishment of death in its most hideous form to ordaiii
a Catholic priest within the kingdom; death to a Catholic priest to enter the
kingdom from abroad ; death to harbour such a priest ; death to confess to
such a priest ; death for a priest to celebrate mass ; death for a Catholic to
QEXERAL HISTORT OF TOBKSHIBE. 907
attend at mass ; and death, as before stated, to deny that the Queen was bead
of the church. Challoner's list of persons put to death for the Catholic
faith, between the years 1577 and 1681, contains the names of thirty-three
phests and eighteen of the laity, who suffered in York.
But in addition to the Catholics, the Puritans (who derived their origin
&om some of the exiled ministers, who, during the reign of Mary, had im-
bibed the opinions of Calvin) were a perpetual cause of disquietude to the
Queen. They approved of much that had been done, and. urged her to a
further reformation. They objected to the superiority of the Bishops, and
the jurisdiction of the episcopal courts ; to the repetition of the Lord's Prayer,
to the responses of the people, to the sign of the cross in the administration
of baptism, to the ring and the words of the contract in that of marriage, to
the observance of festivals, the chant of the psalms, the use of musical
instruments in churches, and to the habits, " the very livery of the beast,"
worn by the ministers during the celebration of divine service.'*^ The Queen,
who had a rooted antipathy against the doctrines of the Puritans, and an
insuperable jealousy of all their proceedings, erected a tribunal, called the
High Commission Court, for the purpose of enquiring, on the oath of the
person accused, and on the oaths of witnesses, of all heretical, erroneous, and
dangerous opinions, &c. Catholics and Puritans alike felt the vengeance of
this tribunal ; many of the Puritan clergy being imprisoned and suspended.
In 1571, not fewer than seven bills for a further reformation, were introduced
into the House of Commons. To the Queen such conduct appeared an act
of high treason against her supremacy ; and on the dissolution of the Parlia-
ment the Lord Keeper, by her command, informed the Puritans, that she
" did utterly disallow and condemn their foUy, in meddling with things not
appertaining to them, nor within the capacity of their understandings."!
A slight glance at the events of this reign reveals to ns, that the subjects
of the Queen were required to submit to the superior judgment of their
Sovereign, and to practice that religious worship which she practised. Every
other £oTm of service, whether it were that of Geneva, in its evangelical
purity, or the mass, with its supposed idolatry, was strictly forbidden, and
both the Catholic and the Puritan were made liable to the severest penalties
if they presumed to worship God according to the dictates of their con-
sciences. But the experience of ages has shown that religious opinions are
not to be eradicated by severities.
In 1569, the Catholics made a fruitless attempt in the north to restore
« Neal'8 Puritans, o. 4, 5. t D'Ewes's Journal, 161, 177.
208 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE.
their religion hj assembling, to the number of 1,600 horse and 4,000 foot,
under the command of Thomas Percy, Earl of Northumberland, and Charles
Neville, Earl of Westmorland. The first object of the insurgents was to
release the Queen of Scots from Tetbury, and endeavour to extort from
Elizabeth a declaration that she (Mary) was next heir to the throne. The
proclamations which they published, stated that they did not intend to attempt
anything against the Queen, to whom they avowed unshaken allegiance. Her
Majesty is surrounded, says one of these documents, " by divers newe set-upp
nobles, who not onlie go aboute to overthrow and put down the ancient
nobiHtie of the realme, but also have misused the Queue's Majistie's owne
personne, and also have by the space of twelve yeares nowe past set upp and
mayntayned a new-foimd religion and heresie, contrary to God's word."
Wherefore they called upon all true Englishmen to join with them in their
attempt to restore the crown, the nobihty, and the worship of God, to their
former estate. " They saw around them examples of successful insurrection
in the cause of religious liberty," writes Dr. Lingard. " The Calvinists of
Scotland had established their own creed in defiance of all opposition ; the
Calvinists of France had thrice waged war against their own Sovereign ; both
had been aided with men and money by the Queen of England. If this were
lawful to other religionists, why might not they also draw the sword, and
claim the rights of conscience."*
^ The first meetings of the chief insurgents were held at the seat of the
Earl of Northumberland, near TopclifiTe ; and they there entered into a cor*
respondence with the Duke of Alva, Governor of the Low Countries, and
obtained his promise of a reinforcement of troops, and a supply of arms and
ammunition. Rumours of the intended insurrection having gone abroad,
the two Earls were summoned to appear at court to answer for their conduct.
This order from the Queen precipitated the rising before they were fully pre-
pared ; for the leaders had already proceeded so far in their designs, that they
dare not trust themselves in the Queen's hands. They determined to b^gin
the insurrection without delay ; and their first demonstration was made at
Durham, where they had a mass celebrated in the Cathedral before several
thousand people, and where they threw down the communion table, and tore
the English prayer books into pieces. Thence they marched forward to
Staindrop, Darlington, Richmond, and Ripon, restoring the ancient service
in each place. At the latter town they assembled round the market cross on
the 18th of November, and after putting Sir William Ingilby, who had op-
• Histoiy of England, vol. viii., p. 46, fop. 8vo.
OEMEBAL HIStbBY OF YORKSHIRE. ^09
posed them, to flight, they proceeded to Enareshorough and Wetherfoy, and
thence to Clifford Moor. They then marched towards York, but hearing that
the Earl of Essex, then Lord President of the North, was there with 5,000
effective men, they retired and laid siege to Barnard Castle. That fortress
was under the command of Sir Oeorge Bowes and his brother, who, alter a
gallant defence of eleven days, capitulated on condition that the garrison
cdiould be allowed to march, with their arms and ammunition, to York ; which
they accordingly did. The Earl of Sussex, the Earl of Rutland, Lord
Hunsdon, William, Lord Evers, and Sir Halph Sadler, with their forces, to
the number of 7,000, now marched from York, against the rebels. On their
approach, the leaders, through fear, fled into Scotland ; the insurgents dis*
parsed, but most of them were killed or captured in their flight. The fiailure
of this enterprise involved many of the conspirators in ruin ; and on Qood
Friday, the d7th of March, 1570, Simon Digby, of Aiskew, and John Ful-
thorpe, of Iselbeck, Esqrs; also Robert Pennyman, of Stokesley, and Thomas
Bishop, Jun., of Pocklington, gentlemen (all of whom were taken, and im-
prisoned in York Castle), were drawn to Enavesmire, and there " hanged,
headed, and quartered," and their heads, with four of their quarters, were
placed on the four principal gates of the city, and the other quarters were set
up in different other parts of the country. The Earl of Westmorland found
means to escape from Scotland to Flanders ; but the Earl of Northumberland
was betrayed and given up by the Earl of Moreton, Viceroy of Scotland, and
Lord Hunsdon, Governor of Berwick. He was conducted a prisoner to
York, and beheaded on a scaffold erected for that purpose, in Pavement in
that dty, opposite the church of St Crux, on the 22nd of August, 1572, and
his head was set upon a high pole over Micklegate Bar, where it remained
about two years. His head appears not, however, to have been taken down
by ofiScial authority ; for, from a curious old MSS., written about that period,
Allen quotes the following memorandum, " Li the year 1574, the head of the
Earl of Northumberland was stolen in the night, from Micklegate Bar, by
persons unknown. **♦ The Earl died avowing tlie Pope^s supremacy, denying
that of the Queen, and affirming the land tjf^ be in a state of schism, and her
aMiheiBDts no better than heretics.f His body was buried in the church of
St. Cruxy without any memorial, attended only by two of his men-servants,
and three women. This was the last open attempt made to restore the
• In the same xnantucript it la stated that doling this year a vezy oonsiderable earth*
qnake was experienced at York. It ftirther states that abont the same time a prison was
erected on Onse bridge, in the same dty.
f Speed.
2 E
'210 GENERAL HISTORT 6f YORKSHIRE.
Catholic religion in this kingdom. Hume sajs great severity was exercised
against such as had taken part in these rash enterprises; no less than sixty-
six of them were hanged in Durham ;'*' and about 800 persons are said, in
the whole, to have suffered by the hands of the executioner. Between New-
castle and Wetherby, a distance of sixty miles in length by forty in breadth,
there was not a town or village in which some of the inhabitants did not
expire on the gibbet. In this last attempt to re-establish the ancient creed,
some of the leaders are supposed to have entertained the design of placing
on the throne Mary, the Scottish Queen, then a prisoner in England.
During the progress of this rebellion, the city of York was in daily ex-
pectation of a siege, as is abundantly proved by many curious entries in the
Corporation records. For example, on the 18th of November, it is ordered,
*^ that the wardens do bring into the citie all sties and ladders that may lie
in the suburbs thereof, and the inhabitants do make their abode in the citie
thys troblesome time." On the 21st, it is directed, " that whensoever any
alarm shal hapen within this citie, no manner of men, women, ne children
shall make any showteyng, crying, nor noyse, but to kepe silens."! A city
guard of 100 men is also spoken of.
The many wai*m contests, with respect to trade and commerce, which took
place between the city of York and the town of Eingston-upon-Hull, — ^being
for many years rivals in this respect — were amicably terminated by an agree-
ment made and entered into on the 28th of June, 1577. On that day articles
were agreed on between Hugh Greaves, the then Lord Mayor of York, and
the citizens of the said city, on the one part ; and John Thornton, Mayor of
Kingston-upon-Hull, and the burgesses of the same, on the other part ; by
the mediation and before the Hon. Henry, Earl of Htmtingdon, Lord Presi-
dent of the North. By this agreement all differences and disputes between
the two parties finally terminated.
In the 3'ear 1568 an investigation into the charges made against the unfor-
tunate Mary, Queen of Scotiand, was held at York, before commissioners
appointed by Queen Elizabeth. These commissioners were the Duke of
Norfolk, the Earl of Sussex, an(^ Sir Ealph Sadler. Mary was represented
by Lesley, Bishop of Ross ; the Lords Livingstone, Boyd, and Herries, and
three others. During these conferences, which continued for several days,
the city of York was the scene of active and intricate negotiation ; but at
length the proceedings were transferred to London. In 1585 many of the
* Dr. lingard says that no less than 800 suffered in the county of Durham,
f Memorials of the Bebellion of 1569, 8vo., London, 1840, p. 76.
QENERAti HISTORY OF YOBKSHIRE. 211
churches of York were united. In 1600 the city was again visited with a
very serious earthquake, which greatly alarmed the inhabitants. On Thurs-
day,* the d4th of March, 1603, Queen Elizabeth finished her long, prosperous,
but rigorous and imperious reign. She died at her Manor of Richmond, in
Surrey, in the 70th year of her age, and 45th of her reign, and was buried in
Westminster, in the chapel of Henry VII., where a stately monument is
erected to her memory.f
Maiy and her sister Elizabeth — ^two zealous promoters of rival creeds —
are dead ; and here we pause to ask, are the religions which these two Queens
professed, to be charged with the excesses perpetrated in their reigns? By
no means I far from it This would be calumny of the blackest dye. If we
attribute the persecutions in Mary's reign to the spirit of Catholicism, must
we not» by the same rule, attribute the rigorous and protracted persecutions
in the reign of Elizabeth, and all the diabolical penal laws, to the spirit of
Protestantism ? Assuredly we must But both the Catholic and Protestant
church equally deplore those direM persecutions, and most emphatically and
unequivocally condemn the laws which countenanced them. To what then
are these persecutions to be attributed? To the impiety of the age, the
eruelty of individuals, and not to the religion of our forefathers, or the spirit
of the reformed creed. And perhaps the cause may be discovered in the
fact, that the extirpation of erroneous doctrine was inculcated as a duty,
by the leaders of every religious party. Mary is called " bloody," but im-
partial writers tell us, that she only practised what the Beformers taught ;
and that it was her misfortune, rather then her fault, that she was not more
enlightened than the wisest of her contemporaries.
The successor of Elizabeth was James VI. of Scotland (son of Mary,
Queen of Scots), who became James I. of England. That monarch visited
York in 1603, on his way from Scotland to London, to take possession of
the crown of England, and was received by the Lord Mayor and citizens
with great magnificence, and splendid demonstrations of loyalty. The fol-
lowing quaint account of this monarch's reception at York, is from the pen
of Mr. Edward Howes, the continuator of Stowe's Annals.
* Stowe observes that this day of the week was fatal to King Henry Vm., and all his
posterity ; himself, his son Edward, and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth, having died
on that day.
f The reign of EUzabeth was long and prosperous ; and was somewhat conspicuous,
too, for what Pennant calls its " romantic fooleries." TUts and tournaments were the
delight of " good Queen Bess." " At these, in her 6«th year," says that author, " with
wrinkled face, red perriwig, little eyes, hooked nose, skinny lips, and black teeth, she
could suck in the gross flatteries of her favoured courtiers."
212 GENERAL HIST0B7 OF Y0BK8HIRE.
" On the 15th of April, 1603, his M^jestie set forwards from Durham
towards Yorke, his train still increasing by the numbers of gentlemen from
ihe south parts, that came to offer him fealty ; whose love, although he greatly
tendered, yet did their multitudes so oppress the country, and made pro-
visions so dear, that he was fain to publish an inhibition against the inordinate
and daily access of the people coming, that many were stopped in their way.
'* The High Sheriffe of Yorkshire, very well accompanied, attended his
Majestie to Master Inglebyes, beside Topcliffe, being about sixteen miles
from Walworth, where the King had lain the night before, who with all joy
and humility received his Mi^estie, and he rested there that night
" The Lord Mayor and Aldermen of Yorke, upon certayne knowledge of the
King's journey into England, with all diligence consulted what was fittest to
be done, for the receiving and entertajming so mighty and gracious a Sove-
raygne, as well within the cittie, as at the outmost bounds thereof; as also
what further service, or duteous respect, they ought to show his Majestie
uppon so good and memorable an occasion as now was offered unto them ;
and thereupon they sent Bobert Askwith, Alderman, unto Newcastle, and
there in the behalfe of the Lord Mayor and citizens of Yorke, to make tender
of their zealous love and dutie, for the which his Majestie gave them heartie
thankes.
"And uppon Saturday, the 16th of April, John Robinson and George
Bucke, Shenffes of Yorke, with their white roddes, being accompanied with
an hundred citizens, and threescore other esquires, gentlemen, and others,
the most substantial persons, being all well mounted, they received the King
at the east end of Skip bridge, which was the utmost boundes of the libertyes
of the cittie of Yorke ; and there kneeling, the Sheriffes delivered their white
roddes unto the King, with acknowledgment of their love and allegiance unto
his M^yestie, for the which the King, with cheerfull countenance, thanked
them, and gave them their roddes agajme ; the which they carried all the
way upright in their handes, ryding all the way next before the seigeant
at armes.
" And before the King came to the cittie, his Majestie had sent Syr Thomas
Challenor to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, to knowe who formerlye had
borne the sworde before the Kinges of England at their coming to Yorke ;
and to whom of right that office for that tyme appertayned, because it had
been anciently performed by the Earls of Cumberland, as hereditary to that
house, but was now challenged by the Lord President of the North, for the
tyme being, as proper to his place. But upon due search and examination,
it was agreed, that the honour to bear the sworde before the King in Yorke,
OEMERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 218
belonged unto Greorge, Earle of Cumberland, who all the while the King was
in Yorke, bare the sworde, for so the King willed, and for that purpose sent
Syr Thomas Challenor agajne to the Lord Mayor, and the Lord Mayor bare
the great mace of the cittie, going always on the left hand of the Earle.
"And when the King came to the cittie, which was well prepared to give his
Highness and his royal tndne entertaynment, then the Lord Mayor, with the
twelye Aldermen in their scarlet robes, and the foure-and-twentye in crimson
gownes, accompanied with many others of the gravest menne, met the King
at Micklegate Bar, his Majestie going betweene the Duke of Lennox and
Lord Hume ; and when the King came near to the scaffold where the Lord
Mayor, with the Recorder, the twelve Aldermen, and the foure-and-twentye,
were all kneeling, the Lord Mayor said, ' Most high and mightie Prince, I
and my brethren do most heartilie wellcome your Majestie to your Highness*
cittie, and, in token of our duties, I deliver unto your Majestie all my au-
Uioritie of this your Highness* cittie,* and then rose uppe and kissed the
sworde, and delivered it into the King*s hand, and the King gave it to the
Duke of Lennox, who, according to the King*s appointment, delivered it
unto the Earle of Cumberland, to bear before his Majestie.
'* The Lord Mayor also delivered up the keyes of the cittie, which the
Lord Hume received and carried them to the manor. And when the Re-
corder had ended his grave oration on behalfe of the cittie, then the Lord
Mayor, as the King commanded, took horse, and bare ihe cittie mace, ryding
on the left hande of the Earle of Cumberland, who bore the sword of the cittie,
and so attended his Majestie to St. Feter*s church, and was there royally
received by the Deans, Prebends, and the whole quyer of singing menne of
that Cathedral church in their richest copes. At the entrance into the
church, the Dean made a learned oration in Latin, which ended, the King
ascended the quyer. The canapa was supported by six Lordes, and was
placed in a throne prepared for his Migestie, and during divine service there
came three sergeants at armes with their maces, pressing to stand by the
throne, but the Earle of Cumberland put them down, saying, that place, for
that tyme, belonged to hym and the Lord Mayor, and not to them.
" Divine service being ended, the King returned in the same royal manner
he came ; the canapa being carried over him into the manor of St. M^ryes,
where the Lord Burleigh and council gave tiieir attendance, and received his
Majestie, where Dr. Bennet having ended his eloquent oration, the King
went into his chamber, the sworde and mace being there borne by the Earle
and Lord Mayor, who left the sworde and mace there that night ; and when
the Lord Mayor was to depart, the Lord Hume delivered him agayne the
keyes of the cittie.
dl4 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
" The next day, being Sundai, the 17th of Aprili the Lord Major, with
the Recorder, the Aldermen and Sheriffes, and the twentye-fonre, with all
their chief officers, and the Preacher of the cittie, and Town Clerk, in very
comely order, went unto the manor, of whome, as soone as the King had
knowledge of their comming, willed that so many of them as the roome would
permit should come into the privy chamber, where the Lord Mayor presented
his Majestie with a Deiyre cuppe, with a cover of silver and gilt, weighing
seventie and three ounces, and in the same two hundred anjels of gold ; and
the Lord Mayor sayde, ' Most high and mightie Prince, I and my brethren,
and aU the whole commonaltie of this your Highnesse cittie, present unto
your most excellent Majestie this cuppe and golde, in token of the dutifull
affection wee bear your Highnesse in our hearts, most humbly beseeching
your Highnesse favourable acceptance thereof, and your most gracious favour
to this your Highnesse cittie of York;* the which his Majestie graciously
accepted, and sayde unto them, ' God will bless you the better for your good
will towards your King.' The Lord Mayor humbly besought the King to
dine with him the next Tuesdai ; the King answered, he should ride thence
before that time, but he would break his fast with him in the next morning.
** This Sundai the King went to the Minster, and heard a sermon, made
by the Dean,* who was Bishop of Limerick, in L'eland. The Lord Mayor,
Aldermen, and Sheriffes, and foure and twentye attended upon the King, the
Earle still bearing the sworde, the Lord Mayor the mace, and the Sheriffes
bearing up their roddes, as well within the church as in the streets, marching
before the King unto the manor. The next day being Mondai, at nine
o'clock, the Lord Mayor came to the manor, being accompanied and attended
by the Recorder, Aldermen, and foure and twentye, and others, and attended
there ; and at ten of the clock, the King, with his royal traine, went to the
Lord Mayor s house, and there dined ; after dinner the King walked to the
Dean's house, and was there entertayned with a banquette, at the deanerie ;
the King took horse, and passed through the cittie forth at Micklegate towards
Grimstone, the house of Sir Edward Stanhope, the Earle of Cumberland and
the Lord Mayor bearing the sworde and mace before the King, until they
came to the house of St. Kathren, at which place the Earle said, ' Is it your
M^yestie's pleasure that I deliver the sworde agayne unto my Lord Mayor,
for he is now at the utmost partes of the liberties of this cittie ?' Then the
King willed the Earle to deliver the Mayor his sworde agayne. Then the
Mayor alighted from his horse, and kneeling, took his leave of the King, and
* Dr. ThomboroQgh.
GENERAL HISTORY OF TORESHIRE. 215
the King pulling off his glove, took the Mayor by the hande, and gave him
tfaankes, and so rode towards Gnmstone, being attended by the Sheriffes to
the middle of Tadcaster bridge, being the utmost bounds of their liberties.
The next day the Lord Mayor, according as he was commanded by a noble-
man, came the next morning unto the court at Grimstone, accompanied by
the Recorder, and foure of his brethren, viz. — ^WHliam Robinson, James
Birkbie, William Greenburie, and Robert Askwith, and certain chief officers
of the cittie ; and when his Miyestie imderstood of their coming, he willed
that the Mayor, and Master Robinson, and Master Birkbie should be brought
up into his bed-chamber ; and the King saide, * My Lord Mayor, our mean-
ing was to have bestowed upon you a knighthood in your own house, but the
oompanie being so great, we rather thought it good to have you here;' and
then his Majestie knighted the Lord Mayor,'*' for which honour the Lord
Mayor gave his Migestie most humble and heartie thankes, and returned/'
Hildyard, in his Antiquities of York, tells us that the King was much
pleased with the loyalty and affection paid him by the Lord Mayor and
citizens, and that at dinner with them, he expressed himself much in favour
of the dty, and promised that he, himself^ would come and be a burgess
among them ; and that their river, which was in a bad condition, should be
made navigable. From another source we learn that before the King left
York, he ordered all prisoners in the city to be set at Hberty, ^* wilful mur-
derers, traitors, and papists being excepted."
Li the June following, his Queen, and thjeir two eldest children, Prince
Henry, and Lady Elizabeth, visited York on their road from Edinburgh to
London, and met with a reception equally cordial. The royal party arrived
in York on the Whitsun Eve, and on the following Wednesday departed for
Grimston, &o. On this occasion the Lord Mayor and citizens presented to
the Queen a large silver cup, with a cover double gilt, weighing forty-eight
ounces, with eighty gold angels in it ; to the Prince, a silver cup, with a
cover double gilt, weighing twenty ounces, and £20, in gold ; and to the
Princess, a purse of twenty angels of gold. The King visited Pontefract in
the same year, when he granted that honour and castle to the Queen, as part
of her jointure.
In the second year of this reign (1004), the plague, which the preceding
year had carried off 30,578 persons in London, raged to an alarming extent
at York, no less than 3,512 of the inhabitants falling victims to it, though
by the precautions used, it was not of long duration. To prevent the conta-
• Sir Bobert Waiter.
aiQ dEMERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
gion from spreading into the country, stone crosses were erected in various
parts of the vicinity of York, where the country people, without coming into
the city, met the citizens, and sold them their commodities. Several of these
crosses are yet remaining. The infected were sent to Hob Moor, and Horse
Fair, where wooden booths were erected for them; and the Minster and
Minster-yard were close shut up. The Lord President's courts were ad-
journed to Ripon and Durham, and many of the inhabitants removed from
the city.
The year 1607 was remarkable for a severe frost, by which the river Ouse
became almost a solid body of ice. Various sports were practised on it ; and
Drake says that a horse race was run on it frt)m the tower at Marygate end,
under the great arch of the bridge, to the cranes at Skeldergate postern.
Seven years afterwards, there was so heavy a fall of snow in the month of
January, during a frost of about eleven weeks, that when it was dissolved
by a thaw, the Ouse overflowed its banks, and covered North Street and
Skeldergate, so that the inhabitants were obliged to leave their houses. This
inundation lasted ten days, and destroyed many bridges. It being the assize
week, four boats were employed at the end of Ouse bridge to cany passengers
across the river ; and the same number were engaged in Walmgate to ferry
over the Foss. A drought succeeded, which continued till August following,
and caused a great scarcity of hay, beans, and barley.
In 1617 (August 10th), King James, with his nobles and Knights, both
English and Scotch, visited York, on his progress to Scotland. The Sheriffs
of the city, clad in their scarlet gowns, and attended by 100 yoimg citizens
on horseback, met his Majesty on Tadcaster bridge, and escorted him to
Micklegate Bar, where he was received and welcomed by the Lord Mayor,
Aldermen, and commonalty, with the usual formalities ; and a silver cup,
value £36. 5s. 7d., was presented to him, and an elegant purse, of the value
of £3., containing 100 double sovereigns. The Recorder delivered a long
oration, and on Ouse bridge another speech was made to the King, by one
Sands Percvine, a London poet, respecting the cutting of the river, and
making it navigable. His Majesty then rode to the Minster, where he heard
divine service, and thence retired to the Manor Palace, where he kept his
court.*
The next day he dined at Sir George Young*s house, in the Minster-yard,
with Lord Sheffield, the Lord President, and after dinner, he created eight
Knights, and examined the Cathedral and Chapter House, which he much
* Nichol's Progresses of James I., vol. iiL, p. 271.
GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 217
admired. The following day his Majesty rode through the city, vrith all liis
train, to the Archiepiscopal Palace at Bishopthorpe, where he dined with
Tobias Matthew, the Archbishop. After attending divine service in the
Cathedral on Sunday, which was the 13th, " this Bctgcuiow Prince, the Solo-
mon of the North, touched about seventy persons afflicted with the King's
Evil." That day he, and his whole court, dined with the Lord Mayor, and
after dinner he knighted the Mayor,* and Serjeant Button, the Recorder.
Next day the King rode to Sheriff Hutton Park, and there knighted several
gentlemen. On Tuesday, the 16th of August, Dr. Hodgeson, Chancellor of
the Church, and Chaplain to his Majesty, preached before him at the Manor
Palace ; and after sermon the King departed for Ripon, where he was pre-
sented with a gUt bowl, and a pair of Ripon spurs, which cost five pounds.
On the 16th of April he slept at Aske Hall, the seat of T. Bower, Esq., whom
he subsequently knighted at Durham. In March, 1625, James was seized
with illness ; his indisposition was at first considered a tertian ague ; after-
wards the gout in the stomach ; but whatever was its real nature, under his
obstinacy in lefiising medicine, and the hesitation or ignorance of his physi-
cians, it poved &tal, for he died on the d7ih of the same month, in the 69th
year of his age ; after a reign of twenty-two years over England, and over
Scotland almost the whole of his life. Of his seven children, two only sur-
vived him ; Charles, his successor on the throne, and Elizabeth, the titular
Qneen of Bohemia.
'* James," writes Dr. Lingard, '' though an aUe man, was a weak monarch.
His quickness of apprehension, and soundness of judgment, were marred by
his credulity and partialities, his childish fears, and habit of vaccillation.
Eminently qualified to advise as a counsellor, he wanted the ^irit and reso-
lution to act as a Sovereign. His discourse teemed with maxims of political
wisdom, his conduct firequently bore the impress of political imbecility. If,
io the language of his flatterers, he was the British Solomon ; in the opinion
of less interested observers, he merited the appellation given to him by the
Dnke of Sully, that of the tpteeetfool in Europe"^
Charles I. ascended the throne when he was in his d5th year, and his
disastrous reign will, through all time, occupy a distinguished place in the
annals of England. Every part of the kingdom was agitated by that mighty
coilision which arose between the monarchial and democratic branches of the
l^gislatore ; but in the county of York the shock was felt with greater violence
than in any other county in Great Britain. Yorkshire was indeed shook to
• Sir Bobert Aakwith. t History of England, voL ix., p. 232, Fcp. 8vo.
3 F
218 GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RK8HIRE.
its centre by the contests which took place during this eventful reign, between
the prerogatives of the Crown and the privileges of the Parliament.
No county in England has witnessed more of the civil wars, to which the
kingdom, in former ages, was exposed, than this ; and it is not a little re-
markable that Yorkshire, which afforded the scene of action for the battle
which decided the fate of the house of Lancaster, on the field of Towton,
should have witnessed the overthrow of the house of Stewart on the field of
Marston. Indeed, the military history of Yorkshire, from the earliest times
to the end of the great civil war, which ended with the restoration of Charles
n., is a study in itself well deserving of attention.
A recent writer, in referring to the county of York as being the scene of
numerous military encounters from the earliest ages, says, ** It was in York-
shire where the most powerful nation of the aboriginal Britons dwelt ; where
the Romans displayed their grandeur, and had their favourite station ; where
the Saxons first exhibited their valour against the Picts and Scots ; where
the roving Danes first gained a permanent establishment; and where the
northmen sustained their greatest reverse, at Stamford Bridge. The Scot-
tish invaders never sustained a more complete defeat than at Standard Hill.
A more bloody battle never took place in England than that of Towton Field.
Yet all these sink into insignificance, in their causes and consequences, com-
pared with that of Marston Moor."*
Entering upon the stage of action inexperienced and impolitic, at a period
too iu many respects highly unfavourable, Charles had difficulties of no
ordinary character to encounter; yet, on the other hand, few monarchs
ever came to the crown of England with a greater variety of favourable
circumstances, in some respects, than he did. He saw himself in posses*
sion of a flourishing kingdom — his right to that kingdom undisputed —
and strengthened by the alliance of the French King, whose sister he
had recently married. But these circumstances were of little avail in the
present critical posture of affairs. The supply granted by Parliament to
his father, had not covered the moiety of the charges for which it had
been voted, and James bequeathed to him debts amotmting to dS 7 00,000.
The accession, and marriage too, of the new King, had involved him in
extraordinary expenses. It was, however, with cheerfulness and confidence
that he threw himself on the bounty of his subjects. His first Parliament
met on the 18th of June, and in this assembly he demanded the necessaiy
* BatUe Fields of Yorkshire.
OEMERAIi HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. QIO
supplies for carrying on the war of the Palatinate; but his request was
answered with a petition for an enquiry into the grievances of the nation ;
and instead of granting the sums required, they employed their time in dis-
putations and disagreeable complaints. To Charles those objections did not
apply, which had always been opposed to the pecuniary demands of the late
monarch. It could not be said of him that he had wantonly plunged himself
into debt, or that he had squandered among his minions the revenues of the
crown. The money which he solicited was required to carry into execution
the vote of the last Parliament ; and those who advised the war, could not
reasonably refuse the funds necessary for the maintenance of that war. In
the House of Peers many of the Lords, though not formally opposed to the
court, looked with an evil eye on the ascendancy of George Villiers, Duke of
Buckingham, and they were ready to vote for any measure, which, by em-
barrassing the government, might precipitate the fall of the favourite. In
the Commons the Puritans formed a most powerful phalanx. Austere to
themselves, intolerant to others, they sought to reform both church and state,
according to their peculiar notions of scriptural doctrine and scriptural prac-
tice. The spirit of liberty, too, had been diffusing itself widely amongst the
people, who, by consequence, were determined to oppose the ancient, and, in
many instances, exorbitant claims of their monarchs ; and the principles of
freedom, which they had been imbibing, would no longer allow them to be
governed by precedents that had their origin in the times of ignorance and
slavery. Such was the state and temper of the public mind when Charles
met his first Parliament ; which assembly he thought proper to dissolve as
soon as he discovered their intention of refusing his just demands.
He then issued a commission to raise money by borrowing of such per-
sons as were able to lend ; and privy seals were issued out to all persons
of substance. The Commissioners (who were noblemen) appointed to collect
the loan, visited the various towns in the kingdom, and at the town halls, or
other public buildings of each place, called the opulent inhabitants before
them, and read the commission to them, setting forth the reasons which the
King alleged for requiring the loan. The Commissioners then took the
names of the parties, with the amount of their subscription, or sum imposed
upon them, together with the names of those who exhibited a disposition to
excuse the pajrment of the sums imposed. In many places the loan was
reluctantly complied with, and occasioned considerable disgust, for though
the proceeding was authorized by many precedents, it was not less a grievance.
At that period the payment of all fees and salaries was suspended ; and to
such a state of destitution was the royal household reduced, that, to procure
320 GENERAL HI9T0BT OF YORKSHIRE.
provisions for his table, the King was obliged to borrow J^BOOO. of the Cor-
porations of Salisbury and Southampton, on the joint security of the Lord
Treasurer and of the Chancellor of the Exchequer.'*'
The second Parliament met, and was dissolved by the King, without
granting the necessary supplies to carry on a war which was entered into by
the advice, and at the request, of those very members who now refused to
contribute to its proper support. The King was therefore again obliged to
have recourse to loans ; and a commission was granted to the Archbi^op of
York, and others, to compound with the Catholics, and agree to dispense
with the penal laws enacted against them, for stipulated sums of money .f
At that Ume the Corporations of the maritime towns received orders to pro-
vide a certain number of armed vessels, in order to equip a fleet Many of
the seaports complied with this request with great reluctance ; and the fleet
thus collected, and which consisted of about 100 ships, having on board
7000 soldiers, sailed from Portsmouth on the 7th of June, 1637. But instead
of being sent against the King of Spain, to the surprise of almost all his
subjects, the King now resolving with a rupture with France, sent the fleet,
under the command of the Duke of Buckingham, on a fruitless expedition
for the relief of La Rochelle, a maritime town in that kingdom.
In the third year of this reign, the Lord Lieutenants of all the counties of
England had orders to put each province and district into a posture of
defence ; also to be careful that the trained bands (a species of militia) were
perfectly instructed in the use of arms ; and to see that all able men, from
sixteen to sixty years of age, were enrolled, that on any sudden occasion, such
levies might be made of them as should be required. They were likewise to
take special care that every county provided its share of powder, ball, match,
lead, &c., and to put them into magazines for the use of their respective
counties and Corporations to be ready whenever they were called for.
Soon after this the King and the Lords of his Privy Council received in-
telligence that the French were fitting out a great fleet, with which to invade
England, and that the Dunkirkers were likewise making extraordinary pre-
parations. Orders were now sent to the inhabitants of the diflerent towns
in the country, to put them into a proper state of defence, with all possible
dispatch. The Duke of Buckingham, who had all along ruled the King's
councils, was about this time stabbed at Portsmouth, by John Felton, a lieu-
tenant in the army, who immediately declared himself the murderer, and
• Bush worth, vol. i., pp. 196, 197. Rj-roer, x>-iii., p. 181. Sydney Papers, iii. 363.
♦ Whitelock, p. 7.
GENERAL HI8T0BT OF TOBKBHIBE. Sdl
averred that he considered the Dnke an enemy to his country, and, as such,
deserving to suffer.
A tax, called tonnage and poundage, was now levied by the King, on all
merchant ships and goods, without the consent of Parliament, as a right
belonging to the Grown. In London, where the spirit of resistance had
already risen to a considerable height, many of the merchants refused to pay
this tax, alleging that it could only be granted by the Parliament. For per-
sisting in this refusal, some merchants had their goods seized by the officers
of the King's customs, and were themselves thrown into prison. The contest
between privilege and prerogative was now carried on with great acrimony.
The Parliament, on its being assembled, warmly remonstrated against the
King's proceedings, and voted the following protestation : — ^That whosoever
should bring in innovation of religion, popery, or arminianism, and any that
should advise the taking of tonnage and poundage, not granted by Parliament,
or that should pay the same, shaU be accounted enemies to the kingdom.
This protestation was made on the last day of their sitting, and whilst it
was being voted the door of the House of.Conmions was locked, and the
Speaker was forcibly held in his chair. During this extraordinary pro-
ceeding the King had come to the upper house. He sent for the serjeant-
at-arms, who was not permitted to obey ; he then ordered the usher of the
black rod to deliver a message from his own mouth ; and that officer having
been refused permission to enter the House of Commons, was commanded by
the King to break open the door ; but at that very moment the Commons
adjourned to the 10th of March. The King, incensed at these proceedings,
ordered the arrest of several of the most violent of the opposition members,
and dissolved the Parliament without sending for the Commons. The
opponents of the King now charged him, his ministers, and judges, with a
design to trample under foot the liberties of the people ; and Charles was
firmly convinced that they had conspired to despoil him of the rightful
prerogatives of the Crown. The Parliament had disobeyed, thwarted, and
insulted him repeatedly, so he resolved to govern for the future without the
intervention of the Parliament. And this intention he announced by pro-
clamation. "We have showed,'* he said, *'by our frequent meeting our
people, our love to the use of Parliaments ; yet the late abuse having for the
present driven us unwillingly out of that course, we shall account it pre-
sumption for any to prescribe any time unto us for Parliaments, the calling,
continuing, and dissolving of which is always in our power, and shall be
more inclinable to meet in Parliament again, when our people shall see more
dSd GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
clearly into our interests and actions."* This measure served only to aggra-
vate the discontents of the people, who justly considered many of his actions
as the exertions of arhitrary power.
In 1630 the King sent forth a proclamation against vile insinuations, and
lying, treasonable and rebellious reports, industriously spread to render his
government odious to his people ; and some time after he sent orders to the
towns that the inhabitants should have a watchful eye over all factious per-
sons, and take care of the safety of their towns. Both Charles and Laud,
his adviser, had been accused by the Puritans of harbouring a secret design
to restore the ancient creed and worship ; but the charge was groundless.
Those who made it, in their intolerant zeal, mistook moderation for apostacy.
But Charles conceived it expedient to silence the murmurs of his enemies ;
80 he carefully excluded all EngHsh Catholics from [the Queen's chapel at
Somerset House ; he offered in successive proclamations a reward of £100.
for the apprehension of Dr. Smith, the Catholic Bishop ; and he repeatedly
ordered the Magistrates, Judges, and Bishops to enforce the penal laws
against the priests and Jesuits. •
In the early part of the year 1633, Charles, in imitation of his father,
resolved to visit his native country ; more especially as some of his Scotch
subjects had intimated that he thought their Crown not worth a journey; and
as he had some reason to be apprehensive of secret designs amongst them.
He was accompanied by a gallant train of English noblemen ; and in his
progress to the north he visited York, and there received a loyal and cordial
welcome. He was met on the 34th of May on Tadcaster bridge by the
Sheriffs, with 120 attendants, who conducted him to the city. At Micklegate
Bar the Lord Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen, standing on a scaffold, erected
for that purpose, saluted him at his entrance, and the Lord Mayor, on his
knees, at the same time deHvered up the keys of the city, together with the
sword and mace. These, however, were immediately returned, and the Lord
Mayor, mounted on horseback, carried the mace before his Majesty; the
Aldermen, richly dressed, and well mounted, made up the cavalcade, riding
before the King to the Manor House, or Palace. The next day the King
dined with the Lord Mayor, at his house in the Pavement, and knighted him,f
and the Recorder, t The following day he dined with the Archbishop, and
knighted his son ; and on the fourth day he departed for Scotland. During
his stay at York, a large silver cup and cover, and a purse, containing £100.,
* Bymer, zix., p. 62. f Sir WiUiam Allenson. • } Sir William Belt
GENERAL HISTOBT OF TORESHIBE. 223
were presented to him. At Edinburgh he was solemnly crowned, with eveiy
appearance of affection and duty; and in a Parliament then held, though the
Scotch strenuously defended the liberties of the kirk, yet they TOted a supply
to Charles, who, after a stay of five weeks in Scotland, returned to the Queen,
who then resided at Greenwich. During this tour Charles visited Pontefract,
where he created Sir John Saville, knt. High Steward of the honour of Pon-
tefiract; and by letters patent elevated him to the peerage, by the title of
Baron Saville, of Pontefract. His son was created Earl of Sussex, but the
£Gimily became extinct in his grandson James.'i'
During the six years which followed his return from Scotland, England^
appeared to enjoy a calm. Charles governed without a Parliament; and not
only took no pains to allay, but he rather inflamed that feverish irritation
which the illegality of his past conduct had excited in the minds of his sub-
jects. Nor was he ignorant of their dissatisfaction; no, he saw it, and
despised it ; and believing firmly in the divine right of Kings, he doubted
not that he would be able to bear down the force of public opinion by the
mere weight of the royal prerogative.
About the year 1635, the coasts of England were very much infested by
pirates from different parts, including the Dunkirkers, and some even from
Sallee and Algiers, who, every summer, committed great depredations, seizing
ships, carrying off prisoners, and injuring the trade of the nation. The
Dutch and French mariners, too, had assumed a right to fish on our coasts,
a proceeding which occasioned much controversy. Charles determined to fit
out a fleet, and end the dispute by force, and for this purpose, and acting on
the advice of his Attorney-General Noy, he imposed a tax upon his subjects,
under the denomination of Ship-money, Though all the judges declared this
tax to be customary and l^al, yet the nation murmured at it, and paid it
with reluctance, considering it illegal, because it had not the sanction of
Parliament. This was the tax that first roused the whole kingdom, and
determined numbers to fix the bounds, both of the King's prerogative, and
their own freedom ; and in reality was one of the chief causes of the King's
ruin. Aided with this tax, however, Charles fitted out a fleet of forty sail of
ships, under the command of the Earl of Lindsey, and a squadron of twenty
ships, under the Earl of Essex. This fleet very effectually scoured the
narrow seas, and protected the trade of England ; and the merchants, whose
commercial interests had of late so greatly suffered, submitted to pay the tax
which they disliked.
« Boothroyd'8 Histoiy of Pontefract, p. 147.
234 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
In 1639 the Scotch were in anus against their Sovereign. They had in
that kingdom long embraced the Presbyterian form of chnrch govemment,
and though Bishops were still continued, yet they were treated with very
little respect or attention. James I. had used his utmost endeavours to im-
pose Bishops upon the Scots, but died before he could carry that design into
actual execution ; and Charles, in an unfortunate hour, resolved to complete
what his father had begun. Whitlocke teUs us, that this ill-judged attempt
to force the rites and liturgy of the Church of England upon that people,
'* was the fountain from whence our ensuing troubles sprung." The Scots
now entered into their celebrated League and Covenant, the great object of
which was to suppress episcopacy, and, if necessary, to resist the King's au-
thority in imposing it Charles, looking upon this procedure as an open
declaration of war, immediately levied an army of 22,000 men, and marched
on an expedition against the insurgents. He left London on the 27th, and
arrived at York on the SOth of March, 1639, and there he was received with
every demonstration of loyalty. He was met at Tadcaster bridge by the
Sheriffs, who conducted him to Micklegate Bar, where the trained bands of
the city and Ainsty, clothed in buff coats, scarlet breeches, laced with silver,
russet boots, black caps and feathers, and amounting to about 600 in number,
were dravni up, and fired a voUey at his entrance into the city. Here he was
received by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen with the usual solemnity, and the
Becorder, on his knees, having deUvered one of those ftilsome, flattering ora-
tions so peculiar to that age, his Majesty was oondocted with great pomp
through the city to the Palace of the Manor. On the following day (Sunday)
the train bands formed a lane, rank and file, for the King to pass through as
he went to the Cathedral ; and their appearance and conduct so gratified
him, that he distributed a sum of money amongst them, and also returned
them his thanks in person."*"
York and its vicinity being the principal rendezvous for the royal army,
the King spent nearly a month in that city. '*He went to York," says
Ghiizot, in his Hutory of the Engliik Rgvohtthn, *' siurrounded with extraor-
dinary pomp, still infiatuated with the irresistible ascendency of royal mcyesty,
and flattering himself that to display it would suffice to make the rebels
return to their duty. The Lords, and a crowd of gentlemen, flocked to York
as to a festivaL The town and camp presented the appearance of a court
and tournament, not at all that of an enemy and of war. Charleses vanity
was delighted with such display."
* Drake's Eboracum, c. v., p. 187.
GENERAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE. ^25
During this visit the King kept the festival, called Mauuday Thursday (the
Thursday before £a6ter), in the Cathedral, when the Bishop of Ely washed
the right feet of thirty-nine poor aged men in warm water, and dried them
with a linen cloth. Afterwards the Bishop of Winchester washed them over
again in white wine, wiped, and kissed them. This part of the ceremony
was performed in the south aisle of the Minster. His Majesty then gave to
each of the poor men several articles of wearing apparel, including shoes and
stockings, a wooden scale full of claret wine, a jole of salt fish, a jole of
salmon, and a sixpenny loaf of bread. He also gave them a leathern purse,
each containing 20s. in money, and in another thirty-nine sHver pennies,
being the number of his own years. On the following day (Good Friday),
Drake tells us, that he touched for the King's evil no fewer than 200 persons
in the Minster ; and ** during the tyme the King touched those that had the
disease called the evill," writes that historian, " were read these words, * They
shall lay their hands upon the sick, and they shall recover ;' and during the
tyme the King put about every one of their necks an angel of gold, with a
white ribbon, were read these words, * That light was the true light which
lighteneth eveiy man which cometh into the world.* "* On Easter Monday
the King ordered £70. to be given to each of the four wards of the city, to be
distributed amongst poor widows ; and on the two following days he touched
each day 100 persons for the evil, but with what success the historian very
discreetly chooses not to disclose. During his stay at York he paid a visit
to Hull, where he was received vrith great pomp and ceremony ;f and before
he left York his Majesty and his whole court dined with the Lord Mayor, on
whom, together vrith the Recorder, he conferred the honour of knighthood.
Having spent nearly a month in York, Charles, and his nobles, at the head
of the army, proceeded against the Scots. Had the King, at this juncture,
exerted himself with vigour and decision against the malcontents, his army
being superior to theirs, it is probable that he might have prevented many of
his succeeding misfortunes ; but instead of fighting, he unwisely entered on
a treaty at Berwick ; and terms were agreed on, which neither side cared
much to preserve. The Covenanters swore obedience to him, but the very
next year, when the King had disbanded his forces, they raised the standard
of rebellion, entered England under the command of General Leslie (created
afterwards Earl of Leven) and the Marquis of Montrose, and proceeding
to the borders of Yorkshire, they levied a weekly contribution of £5,600. upon
the inhabitants of the northern counties, and threatened soon to occupy the
city of York.
• Drake's Eboiaeom, c. v., p. 187. f See the Histoiy of Hull at subsequent pages.
2 o
226 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
To arrest the progress of the invaders, the King came in three days from
London to York, where he was again received with the usual gifts, speeches,
and ceremonies, and on the 7th of September (1640), he issued out writs to
summon all the peers of the realm to a great council to be held at York.
The royal army, commanded by Sir Jacob Astley, and consisting of about
12,000 foot and 3,000 horse, arrived on the same day that the writs were
issued ; and being divided into divisions, one body was encamped in Clifton
Fields and the other in Bishop Fields on each side of the Ouse, and a bridge
of boats was thrown over the river. About 60 pieces of cannon, with 182
wi^gons loaded with powder and ball, together with several carriages filled
with pick axes, spades, shovels, &c., were brought at the same time from the
magazines at Hull. This proceeding naturally spread an alarm through the
country, that the King intended to lay aside one of the three estates of
the realm, and to govern the nation without a House of Commons. The
King's position at this juncture was exceedingly unpleasant and critical.
Twice had the commons refused to grant bim supplies to carry out his wars.
Twice had he abruptly dissolved that assembly, measures which greatly in-
creased the discontent of the people. Ship money and some other arbitrary
taxes had been exacted with severity, and many of his subjects made large
advances to him from their private fortunes, and amongst this number was
the celebrated Earl of Strafford, Lord Lieutenant of the North, who gave his
Mfi^esty £20,000 ; but these resources were still insufficient to carry on the
war against the presumptuous Scots. Sucb was the distressed condition in
which Charles found himself when he returned to York and called a general
council of his nobles ; the nation was discontented, the army discouraged,
the treasury exhausted, and every expedient for supply tried to the uttermost
On the 10th of September the King assembled the gentlemen of Yorkshire,
and proposed their paying the trained bands for two months, to which they
assented. Petitions now poured in upon his Majesty, beseeching him to
summon a Parliament, and the gentry of this county pressed the measure
upon him as the only means of restoring and ensuring a continuance of
tranquillity. On tbe 24th of the same month, the great assembly of peers
met at the Deanery in York, the hall of which " was richly htmg with
tapestry for the purpose, and the King*s chair of state was placed upon the
half pace of the stairs at the upper end of the ha]l."i< In the opening speech
the King announced his intention to call a Parliament in the course of the
present year, and he asked coimcil at the same time of the peers, in what
* Drake's Ebonemn, p. 140.
OENEBAL HI8T0BT OF YORKSHIRE. 227
way to treat a petition for a redress of grievances which he had received from
the Scotch invaders, and how his army should be kept on foot and main-
tained until the supplies from Parliament might be had for that purpose.
During the sitting of the council at York, which continued till the 18th of
October, a negotiation was entered into with the Scots, and Ripon was
appointed as the place of conference.
This negotiation was conducted by sixteen English peers and eight com-
missioners appointed by the Covenanters. Under the pretence that this
conference would prevent them from seeking more abundant quarters, the
Scots boldly demanded a monthly subsidy of £40,000. The English com-
missioners, seeing that the King must ultimately yield, concluded separate
bargains— one with the gentlemen of the north, who, on the faith of a solemn
promise that they should be reimbursed out of the first supply granted by
Parliament, consented to raise the weekly sum of £5,600. by county rates on
the inhabitants of the four northern counties ; and another with the Scots,
who engaged, as long as that subsidy were paid, to abstain from all acts of
hostility, and from eveiy species of compulsory demand. The treaty was
immediately transferred to London, and the King and the peers also hastened
thither, that they might arrive in time for the opening of Parliament.
At this juncture, when the accumulated evils of thirty years of misgovern-
ment brought the kingdom to the verge of a great revolution, Charles, on the
Srd of November, 1640, met that memorable assembly, which is called in
history the Long Parliament^ and which was speedily to contend with him
for the sovereign authority. Its first acts were to oppose the King in the
election of the Speaker ; to vote down the Council Court at York ; and to
present articles of impeachment against the President of that court — ^the
famous Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, and Archbishop Laud, the King's chief
advisers ; and to pronounce the commissions for the levy of ship-money, and
all the proceedings consequent on those commissions, to be illegal. The
Scottish commissioners were received by the opponents of the King as friends
and deliverers ; and most of the demands of the Covenanters were granted ;
and while the patriots in the House of Commons engaged to support the
Scottish army during its stay, and to supply it with a handsome gratuity on
its departure, the Covenanters stipulated to prolong the treaty, and to detain
their forces in England till the reforms in church and state, projected by the
Puritans, should be fully accomplished. It soon appeared that the Scottish
commissioners acted not only in a political, but also in a reUgious character;
and while they openly negotiated with the King, they were secretly but
actively intriguing with the Puritans, to procure ia England the abolition of
228 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
the episcopal, and the substitution of the Presbyterian form of church
government.
The House of Commons not only refused to supply the King's necessities
for the repression of the insolence of his Scotch subjects, but it actually ap-
proved of the conduct of the rebels, and voted two sums, one of £125,000.,
for the charges of the Scottish army during five months, and another of
JB800,000., under the denomination of " a friendly relief for the losses and
necessities of their brethren in Scotland."*
"The government, which, in the hands of Charles, had assumed the
character of an absolute monarchy, soon became democratical to a degree
incompatible with the spirit of the constitution. Lieutenants and Deputy
Lieutenants of counties, who had exercised powers for the national defence,
not authorized by statute, were declared delinquents. Sheriffs who had been
employed to assess ship money, and the jurors and ofl&cers of the customs,
who had been employed in levying tonnage and poundage, as well as the
holders of monopolies by patents, were brought under the same vague charge,
and the latter were expelled from Parliament, The judges who had given
their votes against Hampden, in the trial of ship-money, were accused before
the peers, and in a few weeks such a revolution was produced in the govern-
ment, by the House of Commons, seconded by the peers, that the kingly
power, which had been almost omnipotent, was in danger of being reduced
to insignificance. These measures naturally placed the Parliament at issue
with the King, and the differences between the conflicting authorities con-
tinued to increase during the years 1640 and 1041, tiU an open rupture
became unavoidable."!
In the year 1641 the King, accompanied by the Prince of Wales, after-
wards Charles II. ; the Palsgrave of the Rhine ; the Duke of Lennox ; the
Marquis of Hamilton ; and several other noblemen, visited York on his way
to Scotland, where he had summoned a Parliament on the 15th of July, in
order to ascertain their dispositions towards him. On the day after his
arrival at York, he dined with the Lord Mayor, J and knighted both him and
the Recorder.§ Conceiving that his person was in danger, the King de-
manded a guard from the freeholders of Yorkshire, for his protection, which
was readily granted.
The Commons had already stripped him of many of those prerogatives
which he had oppressively exercised ; and the royal authority was so reduced,
• Baillie, i., p. 240. + Baines's Gazetteer of Yorkshire.
I Sir Cliristopher Croft. § Sir Robert Berwick.
GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE. 229
that its total abolition seemed inevitable. The King was even deprived of
the power of appointing governors, generals, and, in short, whatever related
to the army ; and that they might deprive him even of the shadow of his
former authority, they demanded that the power of raising the militia, and
the nomination of its officers, might be vested in them. To this last de^
mand Charles gave a peremptory denial, and both parties from^this time
prepared for war.
Amongst the extraordinary events which excited the public mind at this
period, was the commitment of twelve Bishops. The populace having be-
come infuriated against the bench of Bishops, frequently assailed them with
abuse and menaces on their way to the house. On one occasion the cries of
vengeance in the palace yard were so loud and alarming, that the prelates
remained after the other lords, till the darkness of the night enabled them to
steal away to their homes. The next day, Williams, Archbishop of York,
prevailed on eleven other prelates to join with him in a declaration, which
was read in the upper house. It stated that the Bishops could no longer,
without danger to their lives, attend to their duty in Parliament, and that
they therefore protested against the validity of any proceedings which might
be passed during their absence. This protest was heard with surprise and
indignation To retire or remain was at their option, but to claim the power
of suspending by their absence the proceedings of Parliament, was deemed an
assumption of sovereign authority. The lower house ridiculously impeached
the twelve prelates with high treason, Williams boldly professed his readiness
tib meet the charge, but the others, intimidated by the violence of the times,
apologised for their conduct. Ten were committed from the house to the
Tower, two, the Bishops of Durham and Lichfield, on account of their age
and infirmity, to the usher of the black rod.*
In the early part of the year 1642, the King gradually withdrew himself
from the vicinity of the metropolis, first to Newmarket, then info the more
northern counties, and on the 18th of March in the same year, he, with his
son Prince Charles, his nephew the Prince Elector, and several noblemen,
not without considerable risk, arrived in York, where most of the nobility and
gentry of the north of England, and many from London and the southern
parts of the kingdom, came to testify their loyalty, and offer him their
services. During this stay, Charles ordered his state printing presses to be
erected in the house of Sir H. Jenkins, formerly St William*s CoUege, in the
yard near the Minster. Notwithstanding the loss of the Courts of Presi-
• Roshirorth, iv., p. 466. Clarendon, i., p. 850.
330 OENE&AIi HI8T0BY OF YOBKSHIRE.
dencj, which the Parliament had lately aholished, York was now the resort
of nobility and gentry, and it derived no small degree of its lustre from being
the asylum of the legitimate Sovereign.
One of the principal objects of the King's journey to York was to secure
the vast magazines of the fortress of Hull, which consisted of all the arms
and ammunition of the forces levied against the Scots. With this view he
sent the Earl of Newcastle to Hull to take possession of the town in his
M^eBty*s name, but the authorities declined to receive the Earl. On the
38rd of April, in the same year, his Majesty, attended by his son, and a long
train of attendants, set out from York for Hull, but Sir John Hotham, the
governor, perceiving that matters were drawing to a crisis, shut the gates,
and refused to admit him, though he requested leave to enter with twenty
persons only.* This was the first open act of hostility preluding that great
civil war, which, for the space of four years, desolated England, and brought
her monarch to the block. The House of Commons then wrote letters to
many of the corporate towns, directing that they should be put in the best
posture of defence, in order to defend themselves against those whom they
styled papists, recusants, and disaffected persons. These letters, in which
the King was represented in a very unfieivourable light, as though his inten-
tion was to subject the nation to a foreign power, threw the country into the
utmost consternation. The Parliament then pretended that they had re-
ceived several informations from abroad, concerning a design to invade
England, and that the Earl of Digby had got together about 40,000 men at
Elsinore, in Denmark, and a fleet of ships ready to convey them to Hull.
Civil war now seemed inevitable.
The two houses voted a levy of 16,000 men in opposition to the King ;
the trained bands of London, under General Shippon, professed the strongest
attachment to the cause ; the arms at Hull were removed to the Tower of
London; a" forced loan, to bear interest at eight per cent., and paid in money
or plate, replenished the treasury, and large sums were employed in the
purchase of stores. The armies which had been raised for the purpose of
suppressing the rebellion in Ireland, were openly enHsted by the Parliament,
for their own purposes, and the command of them was given to the Earl of
Essex, who was appointed Lord General ;f and the Earl of Warwick took
the command of the fleet.
• See the History of Eingston-upon-HuIl at Bubseqaent pages of this volume.
f The pay of the soldiers at that time was Is. 6d. per day for the infantry; 2s. 6d. for
the cavaliy, viz. — Is. 4d. for the keep of the horse, the rest for the man; the Lord
General reoeiyed £10., the Qenend of the horse, JS6., per dtij.
OEN'ERAL BI9T0BT OF YORKSHIRE. ^31
On the other hand, the King, who remained at York, employed himself
with great activity in rousing his adherents to arms. Numhers of the
nohility gentry, and clergy, with the members of both Universities, lent him
money ; and the Queen departed the kingdom, and sold the crown jewels in
Holland to purchase a cargo of ammunition. The whole kingdom was now
thrown into confusion. In every shire, almost in every township, were per-
sons raising men at the same time for the opposite parties. In the southern
counties the interest of the Parliament was generally predominant ; but the
King, however, mustered an army of about 4,000 troops, of which about 8,000
were foot, and 1,000 horse. Negotiations still proceeded. There were many
at York, and in the Parliament, who still laboured hard to effect an accom-
modatidtt — ^for though the King's unhappy predilection for arbitrary power,
had raised him a host of enemies ; his moral virtues had procured him a
great body of zealous supporters. The Parliament, in answer to the King's
demand for a reply to certain proposals, which he had made at the com-
mencement of the year, presented for his acceptance nineteen articles, in
which the privileges of the Parliament so hx outweighed the prerogatives of
the crown, that they were deemed wholly inadmissible: — Should I grant
these demands, said the King, in reply, I may be waited on bare-headed ;
I may have my hand kissed ; the title of Majesty may be continued to me ;
and the King's authority signified by both Houses, may still be the style of
your commands ; I may haye swords and maces carried before me ; and
pleaae myself with the signs of a crown and a sceptre ; but as to true and
real power, I should remain but the outside, but the picture, but the sign
of a King.*
Shortly after Charles took up his residence at York, the Parliament
appointed a commission to reside in that city, to strengthen their party and
to watch the movements of the King ; and on their passing an ordinance for
embodying the militia, the King ordered his friends to meet him at York,
whither he directed the several courts to be in future acQoumed* The Lord-
Keeper Littleton being ordered by the Parliament not to issue the writs,
made his escape to York, and bringing with him that important mark of sove-
reignty, the great seal, he joined the royal party, for which he was afterwards
proclaimed by the Parliament a traitor and a felon. On the d7th of May,
164S, Charles issued a proclamation, dated from his court at York, appointing
a public meeting of the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood, to be held
on Heworth Moor, on the drd of June. At this meeting, at which 70,000
* Eoshirorth, iv., pp. 732, 7S5. Qarendoii, i, 654, 647.
ddd GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
persons were present (40,000 according to Guizot), the King, who was accom-
panied by his son Prince Charles, and 150 Knights in complete armour^
and attended with a guard of 800 soldiers, was received with the loudest
acclamations of loyalty and respect. In a short address he thanked the
meeting for the assurances of loyalty and attachment which he had received,
and explained the particulars of the situation in which he was placed. He
then returned to the city, where, after keeping his court for more than five
months, during which time every attempt at negotiation had failed, he re-
solved to support his authority by arms. His towns, his ships, his arms, his
money, were taken from him, but there still remained to him a good cause,
and the hearts of his loyal subjects, which, with God*s blessing, he doubted
not would recover all the rest. Having constituted Sir Thomas Glemham
Governor of York, and appointed the Earl of Cumberland supreme com-
mander of his forces, the King removed his court to Beverley, with a view of
preparing for an attack upon the fortress of Hull. But after an abortive
attempt to get possession of that place, he returned to York.i'
Hostilities soon after commenced with the siege of Portsmouth. Colonel
Goring, the Governor of that place, an officer of distinguished merit, having
refused to act on the side of the Parliament, a strong force, under the com-
mand of the Parliamentary General, the Earl of Essex, appeared before the
town and besieged it. The King immediately proclaimed that general and
the officers under him traitors, unless they should return to their duty within
the space of six days ; the Parliament on their part declared the royal pro-
clamation a libellous and scandalous paper, and retorted the crime of treason
on all those by whom it had been advised, and by whom it should he after-
wards countenanced.! In these circumstances Charles resolved on hostile
measures. He summoned all his loving subjects north of the Trent, and
within twenty miles to the south of that river, to meet him in arms at Not-
tingham, on the 3/2nd, or, according to some, the 25 th of August (1642), as
he then and there intended to set up his standard.
Accordingly, on that day the royal standard was erected, and on it was
painted a hand pointing to a crown, with this motto, " Give to Caesar his
due." It was carried by a guard of 600 foot, from the castle into a large
field; the King followed with a retinue of 2,000 men; and the people
crowded around to hear the proclamation read by the herald-at-arms. This
ceremony, called the raising of the standard, was deemed equivalent to a
* See the history of Eingston-upon-Hull at a subsequent page of this volume,
f Bushworth, vi., pp. 761, 773. Clarendon, i., 711, 715.
QEKEBAL HISTORY OF TOBKSHIRE. 288
dedaratton of hostilities. At Nottingham the King could muster no more
than 600 men, hut he was shortly after at the head of three times that
numher. From that place he despatched to the Parliament the Earl of
Southampton, Sir John Colepepper» and Sir William Uvedale, with some
fresh propositions to incline them to a treaty, but in vain ; and after a few
more messages and answers, all hopes of peace entirely vanished, and the
nation saw itself involved in all the horrors of intestine war, the most direful
of national calamities.
The reader of English history is aware that at this stage of the contro-
versy between the King' and his opponents, the real liberties of the people
could no longer be regarded as the cause of quarrel. These liberties had
already been established by successive acts of the legislature. The dispute
was now confined to certain concessions, which the Parliament demanded as
essential to the preservation of those liberties, and which the King refused as
subversive of the royal authority. The Parliament now possessed the con*
trol of the public money, the power of impeachment, and the right of meeting
every third year; and these powers, it was contended by some, formed a
sufficient barrier against the encroachments on the part of the Sovereign ;
but others insisted that the command of the army, and the appointment of
the officers of state, the councillors, and the judges, ought also to be trans-
ferred, for a time at least, to the two houses. Who then were the authors of
the civil war? is a question that is often asked. That learned and impartial
historian. Dr. Lingard, says, in reply to this question, " The answer seems
to depend on the solution of this other question — ^were additional securities
necessary for the preservation of the national rights? If they were, the
blame will belong to Charles ; if not, it must rest with his adversaries. "«
That there were faults on both sides seems unquestionable ; and it is to be
especially lamented that the good sense of the monarch had not taught him
to go along with the general feelings of his people ; but Princes in all ages,
as Dr. Lingard truly remarks, have been slow to learn the important lesson,
that the influence of authority must ultimately bend to the influence of
opinion. *' In most of the conflicts which have divided nations against them*
selves, ** says a distinguished writer, " one side or other has been so wicked,
or both so worthless, or the points at issue so personal and valueless, that the
redtal of their progress and results, merely amuses by variety of incident, or
disgosis by sameness of depravity ; but in the principles and fortunes of the
Cavalifln and Roundheads, we still experience a real and vital oonoem. The
* lingsxd'i Hiatofy of KngJand, voL z., p. 70, fop. 8vo.
3 H
S34 GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RK8HIRE.
warmth of passions, though abated, is not extinguished ; we feel as if our
own liberty, our own allegiance, our own honour and religion were involved
in the dispute. "><<
The long and fruitless altercations being at an end, and war being inevi-
table, the Parliament placed the command of the militia, and authority to
raise forces in eveiy county, in such hands as they esteemed trustworthy.
Each army in its composition resembled the other. The command of the
Royalists was entrusted to the Earl of Lindsey ; and that of the Parliamen-
tary forces, as we have seen, to the Earl of Essex. In the meantime. Sir
William Waller had reduced Portsmouth, while Essex concentrated his force,
amounting to 15,000 men, in the vicinity of Northampton. The first pitched
battle between the adherents of the King and Parliament, was fought on the
plain of Kineton, near Edge-hill, in Warwickshire, on Sunday, the 23rd of
October, 1642, when both armies claimed the honour, but neither reaped the
benefit, of victory. Among the distinguished persons who took part in this
bloody conflict, were the King, Prince Rupert, Earl of Lindsey, the Earl of
Essex, Lords Saye, Digby, Roberts, Carnarvon, Brooks, Byron, Wharton,
Wilmot, Mandeville, Fielding, Willoughby, Goring, &c. ; Sirs W. Fairfax,
John Meldrum, Philip Stapleton, James Ramsay, W. Balfore, Jacob Astley,
Edward Vemey, George Lisle, William Constable, &c. ; Hampden, Holies,
Ballard, Grantham, and, according to some writers, Oliver Cromwell. The
Earl of Lindsey was slain, fighting on foot at the head of his men. This
brave old General's prayer, before the advance to the conflict, is said to have
been as follows : — ** 0 Lord, thou knowest how busy I must be this day ; if
I forget thee, do not thou forget me. March on boys !*'
Essex withdrew to Warwick, and thence to Coventry ; and Charles, having
compelled the garrison of Banbury to surrender, marched onwards to the city
of Oxford. The limits of this work will not admit of even a passing notice
of the battles which took place in several of the southern counties ; we must
therefore confine our remarks to the proceedings which occurred in the dis-
trict to which this volume is devoted. Alas ! that the fair plains of this fine
county should be again the scene of bloody strife between Englishmen only ;
that her fertile fields should be once more deluged with the blood of thou-
sands of its best nobles and hardiest sons.
The minority of the northern nobles were attached to the King^s party,
and probably Ferdinando, Lord Fairfax, was the most powerful adherent of
the Parliament in those parts. Accordingly, he received their commission
• Hartley Coleridge's Biographia Borealis.
OBKEBAL HI8T0BY OF Y0BK8HIBE. 235
(still ronnmg in the King*s name) to be General of the forces in the north,
and his 8on» Sir Thomas, was appointed General of horse under him. Sir
Thoioas Fairfax, who appears to have been endowed with a never-tiring zeal
for the cause in which he was engaged, performed his first exploit in the
autumn of 164d, bj driving a small detachment of Royalists from Bradford
to Leeds, whither, in conjunction with Captain Hotham, he marched a few
days after, and compelled the enemj to retire upon York. The great strength
of the Parliamentarians lay in the large manu&cturing towns of the West
Bidix^, and the chief supplies of their army were drawn from that district ;
and that army having increased, 1,000 men were marched to Tadcaster
and Wetherby to guard the passes of the Wharfe, and thus protect the friendly
districts of the west .
The Earl of Newcastle, who had raised a considerable force in the north,
for the protection of the northern counties, now marched to the assistance of
the loynd party, and on the 80th of November he arrived at York with 6,000
men and ten pieces of artillery. The Earl of Cumberland then resigned his
commission to Newcastle, who, after having stayed only three days in York
to refresh his troops, marohed out with 4,000 men and seven pieces of cannon,
to attack the enemy at Tadcaster, whero Lord Fairfax was posted with 700
troops."*^ At the same time the Earl sent his Lieutenant-General, the Earl
of Newport, with 3,000 men, to attack Wetherby. At Tadcaster the battle
was contested, with equal obstinacy, but with much less bloodshed, than the
memorable one fought near the same place, between the fierce adherents of
the rival houses of York and Lancaster. (See page 156.) The action to<^
place on the Srd of December, 1643. The town being untenable, the Par-
liamentarians resolved to draw out, and select a post of more advantage ; but
before they could do so, the King*s forces attacked a position above the bridge,
in which was a small body of foot to cover the retreat, in so brisk a manner,
that the whole force drew back to maintain that ground. The Earl began
his attack about eleven o*clock in the forenoon, and the fighting continued
till dusk without intermission, during which time 40,000 musket shots were
discharged, besides the fire from the aitilleiy ; but the slaughter bore no
proportion to the shot expended ; as the number killed on both sides did not
exceed 300. The disparity of numbers caused Lord Fairfax to draw off his
forces to Selby and Cawood in the night, and the following morning the
Royalists marohed into Tadcaster without opposition. The only person of
note who fell in this battle was Captain Lister, who was shot by a bullet in
* Memoirs of Sir Thomas Ffiirfaz.
d86 aSXEBAL HISTOET OV TOBKSHIBB.
the head.* He was a yaluahle officer, and a great loas to his pairty. The
garrison of Wetherby consisted of 800 foot and 40 horse, commanded by
Sir Thomas Fairfax ; and this small force was sorprised early one morning
by a body of 800 men, under Sir Thomas Glemham. Under the cover of
darkness and the woods around, the Royalists arriTed close to the town
without giving any alarm, until they were ready to enter. The guards were
found sleeping at their post, ''for," says Sir Thomas, ''at the beginning of
the war men were as impatient of duty as they were ignorant of it." The
General hQwever was awake, and, with the assistance of a few men, held the
enemy at bay till more of the guards were got to arms. A smart engage-
ment then ensued, in which the assailants were repulsed. The attack was
soon renewed, bat in the midst of the conflict Fairfax's magazine was blown
up, and produced so tremendous an explosion, that the RoyaUsts believing
that the enemy had cannon, began to retreat, and retired towards York, and
were ptirsued by Sir Thomas with his small body of horse, who took some
prisoners. Sir Thomas Gleroham returned to his garrison at York. In this
engagement Major Carr of the Royalists, and Captain Atkinson and a few
of the Parliamentarians were slain. Seven men were blown up by the pow-
der explosion. The Earl of Newport, on arriving at Wetherby, found no
enemy to contend with. Sir Thomas Fairfax having previously joine4 his
father at Tadcaster.
In the beginning of the year 1643, Leeds, Wakefield, Halifex, Skipton,
Knaresborough, and several other towns and garrisons against the King,
were reduced to his Majesty's subjection, by the valorous conduct of the Lord
General (the Earl of Newcastle). Bradford stood two vigorous sieges, but
surrendered when the ammunition of the fortress was exhausted. Then, but
not till then, did Sir Thomas Fairfax, who conducted the d^ence, ofifer to
capitulate ; but Newcastle having refused to grant the conditions. Sir Thomas,
with fifty mounted troopers, cut his way through the lines of the Royalists,
and made his retreat, but his wife and most of the soldiers were taken pri-
soners.! By the various chances of war, several of those towns were lost and
• Thoresby mentions the following instance of filial affection relating to the death of
this gentleman : — Some years after the battle, the Captain's son was passing through
Tadcaster, and finding the sexton digging in the choir, enquired where his father, Cap-
tain Lister, was buried. To which the sexton replied by showing him a scull just dug
up, which he averred was the head of the Captain. On examining the scull, a bullet
was found lodged in it, and this testimony to the truth of the gravedigger's words, so
struck the young man, that he sickened at the sight, and died soon after.
t Lady Fairfax was shortly after sent back to her husband, by the Marquis of New-
castle, in his own coach,
GSNEBAL HISTOBT OF T0BE8HIBS. d87
•
won again, sometimes by one party, sometimes by another, so that in spite of
every precaution, Yorkshire was for some years a scene of bloodshed and
misery.
It was chiefly owing to the indefifttigable exertions of the Queen (Henrietta
Maiia, dav^hter of Heniy IV. of France) that Charles had been enabled to
meet his opponents in the field. It has already been observed that her
M^esty departed for Holland in the spring of 1642, where she pledged her
own and the crown jeweb for the purpose of procuring arms and ammunition
for her husband's adherents. During her residence in Holland she had
repeatedly sent the King supplies of miUtaiy stores, and, what he equally
wanted, of veteran officers to train and discipline his forces. The Queen
having embarked at Schuiling, near the Hague, under convoy of seven Dutch
ships of war, commanded by Admiral Van Tromp, arrived at Bridlington
Bay on the 20th of February, 1643, and after remaining at anchor three
days, the squadron entered the harbour. Her Majesty brought with her
thirty pieces of brass and two of iron ordnance, with small arms for the
equipment of 10,000 men ; and though four of the Parliament's ships had
been croizing, with a view to intercept her, yet she was so fortunate as to
effect a landing whilst the enemy's ships were riding at anchor off Newcastle.
Batten, the Parliament's Vice-Admiral, having notice of her Miyesty's arri-
val, immediately weighed anchor, but did not gain the bay tmtil the night
after the Dutch vessels had entered the port. Chagrined at his disap-
pointment, he drew his vessels directly opposite to the quay, and, on the
morning of th@ 24th, commenced a heavy cannonade, in hope of firing the
ammunition vessels, and the house in which the Queen was lodged. Some
of the balls actually penetrated the room in which her Majesty reposed, and
compelled her, with the Duchess of Bichmond, and the other ladies of her
retinue, to leave their beds, and, according to some authorities, " barefoot
and bareleg," seek for safety beneath the precipitous bank of the stream now
known as Bessingby Beck, which empties itself into the harbour.
The Queen herself has transmitted to posterity an interesting detail of the
whole event, in the following letter to the King. It is taken from a volume
in the British Museum, marked 7379, in the Harleian Catalogue.
"Burlington, 25th Febraary, 1643.
" My dear heart,
"As soon as I landed, I dispatched Progress to yon; hat having
launt to-day that he was taken by the enemy, I send this bearer to give you an
account of my arrival, which has been very saccessAil, thank Ood; for as rough as the
sea was when I first crossed it, it was now as calm, till I came within a few leagues of
Newcastle; and on the coast the wind changed to N.W., and obliged ns to make for
888 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRB.
Burlington Bay, vhere, after two days lying in the road, oar cavalry arriTed. I imme*
diately landed, and the next morning the rest of the troops came in. Qod, who protected
me at sea, has also done it at land; for this night four of the Parliament ships came in
without our knowledge, and at four o'clock in the morning we had the alarm, and sent
to the harhour to secure our hoats of ammunition ; but about an hour after these four
ships began so Airious a cannonading, that they made us get out of our beds, and quit
the village to them ; at least us women, for the soldiers behaved very resolutely in pro-
tecting the ammunition. I must now play the Captain Bessus, and si>eak a little of
myself. One of these ships did me the favour to flank my house, which fronted the
pier, and before I was out of bed, the balls whistled over me, and you may imagine I
did not like the music. Every boddy forced me out, the balls beating down our houses;
BO, dressed as I could, I went on foot some distance from the village, and got shelter in
a ditch, like those we have seen about Newmarket ; but before I could reach it the balls
sung merrily over our heads, and a seijeant was killed twenty paces from me. Under
this shelter we remained two hours, the bullets flying over us and sometimes covering
us with earth. At last the Dutch Admiral sent to tell them, that if they did not give
over he would treat them as enemies. This was rather of the latest, but he excused
himself on account of a fog. Upon this the Parliament ships went off, and, besides, the
tide ebbed and they would have been in shoal water. As soon as they were withdrawn
I returned to my house, not being willing that they should boast of having driven me
away. About noon I set out for the town of Burlington, and all this day we have been
landing our ammunition. It is said, that one of the Parliament Captains went before to
reconnoitre my lodgings, and I assure you he had marked it exactly, for he always fired
at it. I can say with truth, that by land and sea, I have been in some danger, but God
has preserved me; and I confide in his goodness that he will not desert me in other
things. I protest to you, in this confidence, I would &ce cannon, but I know we must
not tempt God. I must now go and eat a morsel, for I have taken nothing to day but
three eggs, and slept very little."
" No action of the war/* says Dr. Lingard, '* was more bitterly condemned
by the gallantry of the Cavaliers, than this immanly attack on a defenceless
woman, the wife of the Sovereign." In order to secure the Queen from any
further attack, Lieut.-Gen. King erected a batteiy on each side of the port»
but the danger and insult not having been repeated, the utility of the works
were happily never proved. In expectation of the Queen's arrival, the EarL
of Newcastle had drawn a part of his army in that direction, in order to pro-
tect her from the attacks of her enemies ; and immediately upon her arrival,
she was waited upon by the Marquis of Montrose, and Lord Ogilby with two
troops of horse. Sir Marmaduke Langdale, Sir John Ramsden, and others of
the King's friends.
After remaining at Bridlington for about nine days, the Queen was safely
conducted to York. She slept at North Burton on the first night, at Malton
the second night, and arrived in York on the 8th of March, with three
coaches, and an escort of eight troops of horse and fifteen companies of foot.
The military stores were conveyed from Bridlington en route to York in a
OfiKEBAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE. d39
long train of 500 carts and 1000 horses. For his attention to the Queen on
this occasion as well as for his devotion to the cause of the King, the Lord
General, as the Earl of Newcastle was called, was created a Marquis. When
the Queen aniyed at York, the King was staying at Oxford, and to pursue
her journey thither at that time, would he to throw herself into the hands of
her opponents. She accordingly remained in Yorkshire, winning the hearts
of the inhabitants by her affiibility , and quickening their loyalty by her words
and example.* She afterwards marched without opposition to Oxford,
bringing to her husband, who met her at Edge-lull, a powerful reinforcement
of men, artilleiy, and stores.
In Yorkshire several important militaty events took place in the course of
the year 1648. The Earl, now Marquis of Newcastle, made a kind of tri-
umphal march through the county. He took Bradford and retook Wakefield
for the King. Eotherham was in possession of the enemy, and refusing to
yield, he commenced an attack upon it, and took it by storm. Sheffield too,
which had previously been taken possession of for the Parliament, by Sir
John Gell, was re-captured by him, and he defeated Lord FairfiEuc at Atherton
or Adderton Moor. He then recovered Gainsborough, in Lincolnshire, from
the army under Cromwell ; and intended to proceed southward, but, we are
told by Lingard, his followers refused to accompany him any further in
that direction. They had, he says, been embodied for the defence of the
northern counties, and could not be induced to extend the limits of that ser-
vice for which they had been originally enrolled. Had they advanced and
joined the King's army in the south, in all probability an end would have
been put at once to the war, by the reduction of London ; but in consequence
of their refusal to march southward, the King'was deprived of one half of
his expected force, and was compelled to adopt a new plan of operations.
In the north, success and defeat appeared to alternate between the con-
tending parties, and no decisive advantage had as yet been gained by either;
yet on the whole, the balance of victory seemed to incline in the £ang*s
fevour."t
From the commencement of the difference between the King and the Par-
liament, a thorough understanding existed between the chief of the Scottish
Covenanters, and the*principal of the English Reformers. Their views were
similar, their object the same. The Scots had indeed fought and won, but
• Clarendon, ii., p. 148.
f For an accoant of the Siege of Hull, which took place about this time, see the his-
tory of that town at subsequent pages of this volume.
940 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIBE.
they held the fruit of their victory by a doubtful tenure, as long as the fata
of their " English brethren *' depended on the uncertain chances of war.
Both policy and rehgion prompted them to interfere ; the triumph of the
Parliament would secure their liberties. The Parliamentarians first invited
them to interpose their mediation, which they knew would be so little £Biyour«
able to the King ; then commissioners were sent to Edinburgh with ample
powers to treat of a union and confederacy with the Scottish nation ; and a
league and covenant was framed, in which the subscribers engaged mutually
to defend each other against all opponents.
This formidable union struck alarm into the breasts of the Royalists*
They had found it difficult to maintain their ground against the Parliament
alone ; they felt unequal to the contest with a new and powerful enemy. By
means of £100,000., which they received from England, the Scottish levies
were soon completed ; and in the early part of the year 1644, an army of
30,000 men, under the command of their old General, the Earl of Leven,
crossed the Tweed at Berwick, and attempted to surprise the town of New-
castle before it could be put in a posture of defence. But in this they were
disappointed, for the Lord General had arrived at that fortress the day before
it was summoned by Leven ; and the Scots, leaving six regiments before the
place, crossed the Tyne, and entered Sunderland on the 4th of March. The
Boyalists, to the number of 14,000, hovered upon their march.*
Yorkshire being left with but 8,000 or 4,000 men for its protection, the
Parliament ordered Sir Thomas Fairfax, with Lord Fairfax, his father, to
attack this small force, which was commanded by Colonel Bellasis, the son
of Lord Falconberg. The two parties encounted each other at Selby on the
11th of April, and in the action the Royalists were entirely defeated. The
Parliamentarians had their army in three divisions ; the first was led by Lord
Fairfax, the second by Sir John Meldrum, and the third by Colond Bright.
The cavalry was commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax. After some hard
fighting, the Royalists (who had possession of the town) were beaten from
their defences, and Sir Thomas, having forced open a barricade, obtained an
entrance between the houses and the river, where he met with a body of the
enemy's horse, which he charged and routed, when they fled across the river
by a bridge of boats towards York. Another body of horse quickly charged
Sir Thomas's pkrty, and after a desparate struggle, the Royalists were beaten
back, and Colonel Bellasis taken prisoner. The main body of Parliament-
arians now entered the town, and the greatest part of the King's forces were
• Bashwortii, vol. v., p. 600.
(IBNEtUL HISTORY OF TORESBIRE. 241
either slam or taken prisoners. This victory made the Parliament masters
of the midland parts of Yorkshire. The inhabitants of York, hearing of the
captore of Selbj, were in great fear and consternation, and implored the
Marquis of Newcastle, who had been keeping the Scots at bay, to march
speedily to their assistance, or their important city would be lost to the
royal cause. The Marquis at once fell back to its relief; and the Scots
having joined the forces of Lord Fairfisa at Wetherby, the united army
marched to Yoric, and commenced the si^e or blockade of that city, on the
19th of April, 1644.
The combined forces of the Parliament and the Scottish General being
quite inadequate for the siege of this well-fortified and strongly-manned city,
a deputation, composed of the Earls of Crawford and Lindsey, and Sir
Thomas Fairfiu, was sent to the Earl of Manchester, desiring his co-opera-
tbn, to which he willingly consented. Previous to the arrival of Manchester
the besiegers numbered 16,000 foot and 4,000 horse — a force not sufficiently
numerous to invest the city ; but that General brought with him an army of
6>000 foot and 8,000 horse, of which last the fiunous Oliver Cromwell was
liieutenant-General ; and three sides of the city were completely invested,
the north side remaining open. Manchester's division, with twelve pieces of
cannon, took a position near Bootham Bar, towards Clifton. The besieging
force had now three Generals, Manchester, Leven, and Fairfiax, who occupied
difiiarent positions around the walls ; and the siege was soon vigorously prose-
cuted. Several batteries were opened against the city ; and especial mention
may be made of those on the rising grounds called Garrow and Lamel MiU
HiU, out of Walmgate Bar, where four pieces of cannon played almost inces-
santly on the tower, castle, and town ; while the garrison and armed citizens,
from their different platforms, kept up a heavy fire on the works of the
beaiegerB. There were also batteries on the Bootham side. The Earl of
Manchester made an attack near Walmgate Bar, and took possession of the
church of St. Nicholas, but was soon obliged to retire ; the Scots seized, near
Micklegate Bar, a convoy of cattle, which was about to enter the city ; and
many smart skirmishes took place, through the exertions of the besiegers to
preserve the houses in the suburbs for their own convenience (the inhabitants
having withdrawn to the city), which the besieged set fire to.
For some time the work of destruction was carried on " with great gallantry
and spirit,** and with varied success. Charles, who was at that time in the
south, at the head of an inferior force, endeavouring, by some skilful ma-
noeuvres, to escape from the two divisions of the Parliamentarian army, under
Essex and Waller, saw with dismay the danger which threatened him in the
S I
M^ GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
north. The fall of York would most certainly deprive him of the northern
counties, and the subsequent junction of the besieging army with his oppo-
nents in the south, would constitute a force against which it would be useless
to struggle. His only resource was in the courage and activity of his nephew.
Prince Rupert,'*' who had recently driven the Parliamentarians from before
Newark, and reduced Stockport, Bolton, and LiverpooL He ordered that
commander to collect all the force in his power, to hasten into Yorkshire to
fight the enemy, and to keep in mind that two things were necessary for the
preservation of the crown, both the relief of the city of York, and the defeat of
the combined army. On the receipt of the royal command, Rupert took with
him a portion of his own men, some regiments lately arrived from Ireland,
and reinforcements joined him on his march. Newcastle, who was in daily
expectation of the arrival of Rupert, had recourse to a nue to gain time.
That wily General endeavoured, by a pretended treaty with the besiegers, to
direct their attention from further attacks. A cessation was agreed upon,
commissioners met, and after a week's deliberation, hostilities recommenced
on the 15th of May. The besiegers renewed their assaults on the city with
redoubled vigour. The Earl of Manchester's forces undermined St. Maiy's
Tower at the north-east corner of the Manor; and Colonel Crawford, a
Scotchman, sprung the mine, which demolished the Tower, and buried a
great many persons in the ruins. He then with his cannon made a breach
in the wall lower down in Marygatc, and having entered, many of the soldiers
scaled two or three walls, and took possession of the Manor.
This occurred on Trinity Sunday, when most of the officers were at the
Cathedral ; but the alarm given by the explosion of the mine, caused them
to run from the church to their posts. A party of the garrison, too, issued
out by a private sally-port, entered the Manor House, and cut off the retreat
of the enemy. A smart conflict ensued, in which about fifty of the Pariia-
mentarians were killed, and 350 made prisoners. Sir Philip Byron, Colonel
Huddlestone, and Mr. Samuel Breary, were slain on the side of the garrison.
The latter gentleman was Captain of a company of volunteer citizens, and
son of one of the Aldermen. On the 34th of June, a party of the garrison,
consisting of about 600 men, sallied out firom Monk Bar, and furiously as-
saidted the Earl of Manchester's quarters ; but they were soon driven back
with considerable loss.f The siege still continued with all possible vigour,
an almost incessant fire was continued day and night, both by the besiegers
* Prince Hapert was a younger son of Frederick, Frinoe Palatine of the Bhine, by
the Princess Elizabeth, sister of BCing Charles I. of England.
f Ex. MS.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 943
and the besieged ; and so loyal were the people of York to their Sovereign,
we are told bj Drake, that the women assumed a masculine courage, and,
despising fatigue and danger, contributed much to the defence of the city.
The supply of fresh provisions having been cut off by a line of circumvalla-
tion drawn round the city, the prices were excessively high before the end of
the siege. Mutton sold for Ids. a quarter ; beef, at 4s. per stone ; pork, at
7s. ; bacon, at 4s. ; eggs, at 3d. each ; fresh butter, at 2s. 8d. per pound ;
and oatmeal, 3s. 8d. per peck. But the magazine was well stored with salt
provisions, grain, and liquors.
On the evening of the SOth of June, the besiegers to their surprise and
consternation, received intelligence that Prince Bupert, with an army of
30,000 men* was advancing to the relief of the city, and would quarter that
night at Enaresborough and Boroughbridge, within eighteen miles of York.
Conscious of their inability to contend with him in that situation, the Psur-
liamenVs leaders held a council of war, at which it was resolved to raise the
siege. Accordingly, on the 1st of July they drew off from their entrench-
ments before the city, and marched to Hessay Moor, about seven miles west
of York, and there the army was drawn up in order of battle, expecting the
Prince would make that his way to the city. But his Highness, aware of
the movement, avoided the conflict by an exertion of great military skill.
He caused only a party of horse to face the enemy at Skip-bridge, where they
might secure their retreat over the Ouse at Nun-Monkton ; and interposed
the Ouse between the enemy and the main body of his army. The latter
spent that night on the north side of the river, in the Forest of Galtres, near
Poppleton ferry; whilst the Prince, with about 200 horse, rode on to York,
where his arrival produced the greatest demonstrations of joy. A council of
war was immediately held — and here we would pause to remark — ^that had
the Prince not been too precipitate, he might not only have relieved the city,
bat he might have established the royal cause on a basis too strong for re-
bellion to shake. In the council the Marquis of Newcastle gave it as his
decided opinion, that it was inexpedient at that moment to hazard an en-
gagement with the enemy ; especially as in two days he expected Colonel
Clavering, with a reinforcement of 3,000 men from the north, and 2,000
drawn out of several garrisons. Besides, he added, that he had certain in-
telligence that dissension prevailed amongst the Parliamentarian Generals,
and that they were about to separate.!
• Rashworth, vol. v., p. 631.
f Mem. Sir T. Fairfiix. Sewetutie's Life, by the Duchess.
244 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
The Marquis proved correct in his remarks, hut the daring and impetaons
Prince, whose subsequent rashness was the cause of so many misfortunes to
the monarch, and whose martial ardour was not sufficiently tempered with
prudence, stated that he had received positive orders from the King, then at
Oxford, to bring the enemy to immediate action.* Accordingly, Rupert,
with his forces, marched out of York on the following day, the 2nd of July,
and his van came up with the enemy just as they had broken up with the
intention of proceeding to Tadcaster.f Rupert is said by some to have passed
a part of his army over the Ouse at Poppleton, by means of a bridge of boats
made by the Scots ;l and to have entered with his whole army into Hessay
Moor, which the Parliamentarians had hardly quitted. He, however, pur-
sued them with such rapidity, that his vanguard almost overtook their rear
near the village of Long Marston. Both parties soon began to draw up
in order of battle; the Prince possessing himself of the principal part of
the Moor, the Parliamentarians were obliged to range their forces in a large
field of rye, at the end of the village of Marston, fronting the Moor. This
being a rising ground, Rupert sent a party to dislodge them, but the Royalists
were driven back, and that com>field remained in the possession of the
enemy. Both armies, in accordance with the military tactics oi the age,
were drawn up in line, the infantry in three divisions, with strong bodies of
* The following extract from the letter of the King, and whioh Bapert would seem to
have regarded as containing an imperative command to fight the enemy at York, cer-
tainly excalpates the latter from the charge usually hrought against him, of fighting
without orders : — '* But now I must give you the true state of my afihirs, which, if their
condition be such as enforces me to give you more peremptory commands than I would
willingly do, you must not take it ill. If York be lost, I shall esteem my crown little
else, unless unsupported by your sudden march to me, and a miraculous conquest in the
south, before the effects of the northern power be found here; but if York be relieved,
and you beat the rebels' armies of both kingdoms, which are before it, then, but other-
wise not, I may possibly make a shift upon the defensive to spin out time, until you
come to assist me. Wherefore I command and conjure you, by the duty and afi*ection
which I know you bear me, tliat, all new enteri)rises laid aside, you immediately march,
according to your first intention, with all your force to the relief of York ; but if that be
either lost, or have freed themselves from the besiegers, or that for want of powder, you
cannot undertake that work, that you immediately march with your whole strength to
Worcester, to assist me and my army, without which, or your having relieved York, by
heating the Scots, all the successes you con afterwards have, most infallibly will be use-
less unto me." — Evelyn's Memoirs^ voL v.. Octavo edition, p» 121.
} Sir Thomas Fairfax says, " we were divided in our opinions what to do ; the English
were for fighting, the Scots for retreating, to gain, as they alleged, both time and place
of more advantage ; this being resolved upon, we marched away towards Tadcaster."
{ Others assert that the army crossed the ferry, which at the time was fordable.
GBKEaAL HISTOBT OF TORKSHIKE. 245
oavalxy on each flank. The Eing*s forces amounted to 14,000 foot, 9,000
horse, and 25 pieces of ordnance ; and the number on the other side is vari-
ooflly estimated. Some writers state that it was nearly equal in number to
the Royalist army. Sir Thomas Fairfax says that its number was somewhat
greater than that of the King's forces ; whilst others state that it reckoned
40,000 soldiers. There was this peculiarity in the arrangement of the Par*
liamentarians, that in each division the English and the Scots were inter-
mixed, to preclude all occasion of jealousy or dispute. The right wing of the
Parliament's army was placed near Marston town end, having the village on
their right, fronting the east; and as their horse and foot came up, they formed
their battalia and left wing, endeavouring to gain as much to the left as they
could ; so that at last their lines extended from Marston to Tockwith^ and,
as we have said, fronted the Moor. The position chosen by the Parliament-
arians was an advantageous one. On the right, the village of Marston secured
them against being outflanked on that side ; extending westward, the array
passed across Marston field, a large enclosure cultivated in common, where
many of the farmers held pieces of land, at that time bearing a crop of lye,
which would then be nearly ready for the harvest This ground is con-
dderafoly elevated above the Moor, to which it slopes gently down, but so
easily, that a horseman might gallop up or down without any inconvenience.
Close to the village of Marston, a place is shown where it is said that the
hedges were cut down to make a way for the Parliamentarian army to pass,
and this spot is now called " Cromwdl's Qap."
A Htde further west from Marston, where the land has its highest eleva-
tion, is the spot where tradition points out the position held by Cromwell ; a
clump of trees stood there some time since, now all felled but one, which has
been left (though dead) to point out the station of the grim Ironsides. The
position more to the left, towards the village of Tockwith, being nearly level,
presented fewer points of advantage, and this latter place secured the left
flank from being turned. The troops, standing with their backs to the south,
would have an extensive view of the country to the north and east, over the
level plain and rural villages of the Ainsty, to the towers and walls of York.
The right wing of the Parliamentarian army, extending to and resting on
the village of Marston, consisted of the Yorkshire horse (but newly raised),
commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax, a man of known valour and resolution ;
three regiments of Scottish horse, commanded by the Earl of Dalhousie, the
Earl of Eghnton, and Lord Balgony, forming his reserve. Next to them
was a body of infiemtry consisting of Lord Fair£GUL*s foot, and two brigades of
the Scottish horse for a reserve. The main body, consisting chiefly of mus-
246 QENEBAL HISTORY OF Y0RK8HIBE.
keteers and pikemen, was commanded bj the three generals Lord Fair£BLx»
the Earl of Manchester, and the Earl of Leven. The left wing was com-
posed of the whole of Manchester's cavalry, under the command of Lieut.
Gen. Cromwell, among whom were his tried and trusty Ironsides (a name
first bestowed upon them in this battle) with three regiments of Scottish
horse, commanded by Major Gen. Lesley ; and upon their left, near a cross
ditch where the Royalists had a regiment of foot were the Berwickshire
dragoons under Colonel FrizelL This wing extended to the village of Tock-
with, and the whole army was drawn up in large bodies well supported by
artillery. The field word of the Parliamentarian troops was " God with
us." Previous to the attack they were heard singing psalms.
The King's army was drawn up in a line opposite, on the open moor,
partly protected by broken ground, ditches, and furze bushes. The left wing,
fronting the position of Sir Thomas Fairfax, was led by Prince Rupert in
person.i^ The right, opposed to Cromwell, was led by Sir Charles Lucas and
Col. Hurry ; the main body by the Generals Goring, Porter, and Tilliard.
It is not certain what particular charge the Marquis of Newcastle had this
day, though it is certain he was engaged very valiantiy in the battle Some
writers state that he had no command, but acted merely as a volunteer, with
many more gentiemen equally disgusted with Rupert's haughty conduct
The field word of the Royalists was " God and the King."
*' When both armies were completely drawn up, it was after five in the
evening, and nearly another hour and a half passed with litde more than a
few cannon shots. Newcastle considered all was over for that day, and had
retired to his carriage to prepare himself for rest for whatever might betide
on the morrow. Even Rupert and Cromwell are believed to have expected
that their armies woidd pass the night on the field. It was a bright summer
evening, and the calm beauty of the heavens above left light enough still for
the work of destruction to proceed, and that mighty host, 46,000 men, children
of one race, subjects of one King, to mingle in bloody strife, and lay thou-
sands at rest, * to sleep the sleep that knows no waking,' that lovely night of
June, on Long Marston Moor. It has been surmised, with considerable
probability, that a stray cannon shot, which proved fieital to young Walton,
OHver Cromwell's nephew, by rousing in him every slumbering faeling of
wrath and indignation, mainly contributed to bring on the general engage-
ment. Certain it is, that he was the first to lead his men on to the attack.
• Some writers assert that the left wing was led by the Marquis of Newcastle, whilst
the right wiJDg was commanded by Prince Bapert.
OENERAL HISTORY OF YORESHIBE. 247
It was within a quarter to seven on that cahn evening, when the vast array
that spread along the wide area of Marston Moor began to be stirred by
rapid movements to the front. Along a considerable part of the ground that
lay immediately between the advanced posts of the Parliamentary forces and
the Royalist army, there ran a broad and deep ditch, which served to protect
either party from sudden surprise. Towards this, a body of Cromwell's
oaraliy was seen to move rapidly from the rear, followed by a' part of the
in&ntry. Prince Eupert met this promptly by bringing up a body of mus-
keteers, who opened upon them a murderous fire as they formed in front of
the ditch, which protected Rupert's musketeers from the cavalry, while a
range of batteries, advanti^eously planted on a height to the rear, kept up
an incessant cannonading on the whole Hne."*
" Suddenly the left wing of the Parliamentarians was stirred by a rapid
movement;" says a recent writer, '* had the eagle eye of Cromwell seen the
moment of advantage ? or, was it the death of his nephew, struck down by a
cannon shot, that awakened his slumbering wrath, roused the lion spirit
within him« and now hurried him to the combat, and with him the whole
anny, for a single charge must inevitably bring on a general engagement.
His heavy armed curasaiers were already chanting their vengeful psalm of
batde, while their eyes were lighted up with martial joy. Not one of them
but carried a bible, as well as a carbine, pistols, and a heavy broad sword, "f
The small ditch, which lay between the contending armies, had an embank-
ment on one side of it ; and though they had drawn up within musket shot
of one another, yet it must incommode the party that passed it, and lay them
more open to their enemy. In the ditch the Royalist leader placed four
brigades of their best musketeers, which at the first were gallantly assaulted
by the enemy, and forced to give ground. The finont divisions of horse mu-
tually charged, the respective opposite right and left wings meeting. Crom-
well, with his trusty Ironsides, dashed off rapidly to the right, and clearing
the ditch beyond the enemy's fiank, he swept down upon their right wing
with such irresistible force, that the cavalry, who were then under the com-
Biaad of General Goring, were completely broken soon after the first onset
For a short time ihe fighting here was truly terrific. Some of the King's
bravest men attacked Cromwell's troopers in front and flank, and every inch
was disputed at the sword's point. For a while all was dose and deadly
conflict; the cannon's roar, the clashing of arms, the ringing of pistol shots,
the sound of trumpets, mingled with the yells, shouts, and cheers of the
• Wilton's CnmUMtt and the Proteetorau, p. 96. f Battle Fields of YorkBhire.
348 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
troops, making up a dreadful battle chorus. The Royalists fought bravely,
rallying when broken, and again rushing to the charge. Goring and New*
castle exerted themselYes like tried and trusty soldieiiB ; what generalship
and personal courage could do, was done, and done in vain. The whole right
wing of the King's army was dispersed ; and such of them as escaped the
swords of Cromwell's Ironsides, wheeled about, and fled to join the caTalxyi
under Prince Rupert's own command. The guns were silenced, and the
artillerymen fled, or were sabred at their posts ; while Cromwell, recalling
his men finom the pursuit, led them back in perfect order towards their first
point of attack.
But a diflerent scene had been enacted meanwhile on the left wing.
Prince Rupert, who commanded there in person, poured a tremendous fire
into the right wing of the enemy, led by Sir Thomas Fairfax, and dashed in
upon them with his usual impetuosity, and swept through their broken ranks
with tremendous slaughter. Nevertheless Sir Thomas, with a body of 400
horsemen, passed the ditch, and charged furiously upon the royal ranks, and
after a dreadful struggle, cut his way through, despite all their efforts to
hinder him ; the Royalists flying towards York, closely pursued to prevent
their rallying. Rupert seeing the disorder of that wing, dashed forward at
the head of his men, driving, scattering, and destroying all before him. In
vain the leaders struggled to stem the tide— on sped the Prince over the
dying and the dead, pursuing the routed squadrons towards Tadcaster and
Cawood. Instead of pursuing them with his whole strength, had Rupert
merely ordered a detachment to keep them from rallying after they were
pushed from the field, and fallen with the rest of his force upon the naked
flank of the Parliamentarian foot, the victory might have been his own, and
his rashness in fighting been justified by success. Thus one wing of eadi
army was routed, and the main bodies closely engaged in an even balanced
and desperate struggle, when Cromwell, with his troopers flushed with vic-
tory, dashed impetuously upon the naked flank of the Royalist in&ntry,
overturning all before them. It was at this time that the Marquis of New-
castle's own regiment — called " White Coats," from their clothing, consisting
of more than a thousand stout Northumbrians, being deserted by the horse,
yet scomiog either to fly or to ask quarter, were cut to pieces by the enemy,
all bravely fiBJling in rank and file as they stood. This brigade, which was
well armed and disciplined, strong and valiant, was commanded by a Scotch-
man named King, the Marquis's Lieutenant, a man of considerable military
experience.
The three Generals, Manchester, Leven, and Fairfax, appear to have con-
OEKBRAL HISTOBT OF TORKSHTRS. 949
aidefBd the battle as lost, and were hastening out of the field, when the Tictoty
ihej despaired of unexpectedly fell into their hands. For General Porter,
after having forced back part of the Parliamentarian foot, even beyond their
first position ; and after three hours of hard fighting, and when he thought
the success of the Prince was established, found himself attacked with greater
fury ihan erer^ and that unexpectedly in the rear. Here the order of the
iMttle was completely reversed, each party occupying the ground held by the
other at the beginning of the fight Cromwell having rallied his men, ad-
vanced towards the centre of the action just as Rupert returned from his
headlong and mad pursuit, at the head of his exulting cavalry, confident that
the field was already won. But a short time was sufficient to convince him
thai his enemies were the victors ; for though the second battle was equally
ffoioos and desperate with the first, yet, after the utmost efforts of courage
by both parties, victory wholly turned on the side of the Parliament ; for,
hemmed in on nearly sll sides, on difficult and broken ground, without hope
of sucoouTi and almost without means of retreat. Porter and his brave band
smnendered themselves prisoners. Rupert's whole tndn of artillery was
taken, and those Royalists who had survived, and were not taken prisoners,
were pursued to within a mile of the walls of York, by their relentless ene-
mies, Rupert himself only escapng by the fieetness of his horse. Thus
ended this sanguinaiy conflict between the most numerous armies that ever
w«e engaged duiing the course of these unnatural wars. About ten o'clock
the Royalists had pursued the main port of the enemy from the field ; but
before midni^ the best and bravest of the friends of rojBltj were lying dead
OD the field, or prisoners in the hands of the foe, or helpless and despairing
fugitives on the roads to York and other places, pursued with great slaughter.
The victoiy was complete. What a contrast between the going out and the
letom of the Royalist army. The number of the dain on both sides is said
to be about 8,000, though authors vary much in this as in other particulars
of the battle ; but the villagers, who were commanded to bury the dead, as^
sertoi tiuKt they interred only 4,160 bodies, two-thirds of whom appear to
have been men of rank; and their graves are yet to be seen near Wibtrop
Wood, at the end of a long green lane, on the western side of the moor.
This is supposed to be the place where Oromwdl beat the Royalist right
wing, and afterwards mowed down Newcastle's valiant regiment, for they
would probably bury them "where the battle's wreck lay thickest"
Among the Royalists who fell were Sir WilHam Wentworth; Sir Francis
Bacres; Sir William Lambton; Sir Charles Slingsby, Knight, who was in^
terred in the Cathedral; Colonel John Fenwick, whose remains could not be
d K
950 OEKERAT. BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
identified among the heaps of dead ; Sir Marmaduke Luddon ; Sir Thomas
Metham ; Sir Thomas Gledhill ; Sir Richard Graham ; and more than 4,000
others. Upwards of 1,500 were taken prisoners on that dreadful daj,
amongst whom were General Sir Charles Lucas, General Porter, General
Tilliud, Lord Goring*s son, and many more field officers. The Prince like-
wise lost besides his 95 pieces of artiUerj, 130 barrels of gunpowder, 10,000
stand of arms, 47 colours, 2 waggons loaded with carbines and pistols, and
all his bag and baggage.
The principal persons slain among the Parliamentarians were Charles,
brother of Sir Thomas Fairfax, who was buried at Marston ; Mi^or Fairfiu,
Captain Micklethwaite, and Captain Pugh. From the circumstance of the
battle being at one time so much against them, they must undoubtedly have
lost a number of adherents nearly equal to the vanquished ; but they ihem*
selves would not acknowledge the loss of more than 800 subalterns and
privates.*
Prince Rupert, to whose want of sufficient coolness and prudence, the dis-
asters of this day were attributed, has been accused by some of wanting
courage, a charge which by others is believed to be completely unfounded.
Cromwell, too, is taxed with cowardice by Hollis, who says that he witiidrew
very soon from the fight, for a slight wound in the neck ; but he is, however,
by most writers considered the main instrument in gaining this important
victory. It was late in the evening when the Royalists arrived at Mickl^ate
♦
Bar, and as none but the garrison were suffered to enter, many of the
wounded, fainting under fieitigue and anxiety, filled the air with sounds of
distress, and the scene of confusion and misery that ensued, was beyond
description.!
This disastrous battle extinguished the power of the Royalists in the
northern counties, and opened an immediate way to Cromwell's assumption
of the vacant throne, when Charles fell a sacrifice to violence and political
rancour. Among the many battle fields of Yorkshire, at Marston Moor only
was there any great principle depending on the issue. In the other battles
the object had been to repel, perhaps a provoked invasion ; to crush a rebel-
lion of ambitious and discontented nobility ; or oftener for a mere change of
rulers. The people shed their blood for men from whom they could receive
no benefit, and for objects in which they had no interest; but at Marstoh I
Moor only the spirit of civil and religious freedom was manifested. There it.
• For this battle see Bushworth, v., 632. Clarendon, iv., 503. Thorloe, i., 89.
Whitelook, 89.
f Hargrove's Histoiy of Tork, vol. i., pp. 169, 178.
GENERAL HISTOBY OF YORKSHIBE. 351
iras that King and people contended ; the one for power unlimited and absolute ;
the other for justice and liberty — ^man's birthright Liberty and privilege
on the one side, and prerogative and despotic power on the other, were on the
field of Marston brought into open conflict, and the sequel is well known.
The day after the battie the brave Marquis of Newcastle, and several of
his friends, either despairing of the royal cause, or disgusted with the arro-
gant conduct of Prince Rupert, resolved to quit the countiy, and immediately
went to Scarborough, and thence embarked to Hamburgh. Rupert himself
drew his army from the city of York, aud hastily retreated into Lancashire ;
and thus were the afiairs of the unfortunate Charles irretrievably ruined by
the imperious and injudicious conduct of his froward kinsman. Had he left
a sufficient garrison in the city, it might be held out against the Parliament-
arians, as great dissensions prevailed among the leaders ; but encouraged by
the intelligence of the departure of the two royal commanders, and knowing
that Sir Thomas Glemham, the Goyemor, was left with only a very small
garrison, and in a great measure defenceless, in consequence of the loss of
artillery at the late battie, the Parliament's Generals appeared before the
walls, and renewed the siege. The Gx)vemor was summoned to surrender
unconditionally — ^to which a negative answer was returned. However, thir-
teen days after the battie of Marston, and after a siege of nearly thirteen
weeks, during which time the garrison had repulsed twenty-two attempts to
carry the city by storm, and four countermines ; and between 4,000 and 5,000
of the enemy had perished before its walls, the Governor was reduced to the
painful necessity of surrendering the city, on the following conditions,*
which, owing to the existence of considerable dissensions amongst the forces
of the Parliament, were extremely favourable.
1. That Sir Thomas Glemham, as Governor of the city of York, shall sur-
render and deliver up the same, with the forts, tower, cannon, ammunition,
and furniture of war belonging thereto, on the 16th of July, 1644, at eleven
o'clock in the forenoon, to the three Generals, or to whom they shall appoint,
for the use of the King and Parliament, in the manner, and upon the con-
ditions following: —
d. That all the officers shall march out of the city, with their arms, drums
beating, colours flying, match lighted, bullet in mouth, bag and baggage.
S. That they shall hare a convoy, that no ix\iuiy be done them in their
march to Skipton.
4. That sick and maimed soldiers shall not be hindered from going, after
their recoyeries.
• Ex. MS.
853 OEMEBAL HiarORT OF TORESHIBB.
6. That soldierB* wives and children may hare liberty to go to their hus-
bands and fathers, to dieir own homes and estates, and to enjoy them
peaceably, under ccmtribution.
6. That no soldier be enticed away.
7. That the citizens and inhabitants may eigoy all their priTileges, which
formerly they did at the beginning of these troubles, and may have freedom
of trade, both by sea and land, paying such duties and customs as aU other
cities under obedience of Parliament.
8. That if any garrison be placed in the cily, two parts in thvae shall be
Yorkshiremen ; no free quarter shall be put upon any without his own con-
sent, and the armies shall not enter the city before the Goremor and Lord
Mayor be acquainted.
9. That in all chaiges the citizens, residents, and inhabitants, shall bear
only such part with the county at laige, as was formerly in all other assess-
ments.
10. That all citizens, gentlemen, residents, sojourners, and every other
person within the city, shall, if they please, have free liberty to remove them-
selves, family, and goods, and to dispose thereof, and their estates, at their
pleasure, according to the law of the land, either to live at their own homes
or elsewhere ; and to enjoy their goods and estates without molestation, and
to have protection and safeguard for that purpose, so that they may rest
quietly at their abodes, and travdl safely and fredy about their occasions ;
and for their better removal, may have letters of safe conduct, and be f m>
nished with horses and carriages at reasonable rates.
11. That all gentlemen, and others, that have goods within the city, and
are absent themselves, may have &ee liberty to take, carry away, and dispose
of them, as in the forcing articles.
13. That neither churches nor other buildings shall be de&iced, nor any
plunderings, nor taking of any man's person, nor any part of his estate,
suffered; and that justice shall be administered within the city, by tlie
magistrates, according to law, who shall be assisted therein, if need require,
by the garrison.
18. That all persons whose dwellings are in the city, though now absent,
may enjoy the benefit of these articles, as if they were present.
Signed,
FERDINAND FAIRFAX,
MANGHEBTEB,
ADAM HEPBORNE,
LORD HUMBEE,
WILLIAM CONSTABLE.
THOMAS OUEMHAM,
■
aOVEBHOB.
aSNBlUL filSTOBT OF TOUESHISE. d58
The &ie68 of the King* amovmtiiig to mora than one thousaad, besides
flick and wounded, aeooidingly enwuated the city on the f<^owing daj*
through Micklegate Bar, marching through the yictorious armj (which had
been prsTiously drawn up on each side, witiioat the Bar, and ioxmed into a line
of about a mite in extent), with arms in their hands, drums beating, colours
flying, ibc, towards Skipton. On their departure, the three succesfiful Gene^
xalfl, the Eads of Leven and Manchester, and Lord Eairfax, with their IbrceSi
entered the city in solemn procession, and went directly to the Cathednd,
where they returned thanks to the Almighiy for their success — prayer being
cAred up by the Earl of Leren's chaplain, a Presbyterian; and the following
Thnrsday was appointed a day of general thanksgiTing.»
York suffered seYcrely irom this calamitous si^ge. Its walls were sadly
shattered ; several houses were in ruins, and the suburbs completely destroyed.
Lord Ferdinando Faix&x was now made Goremor of York, and that city
became the seat of a standing committee, whereby the affiiirs of the whole
county were conducted with almost absdute power« Lord Fairfu and Ms
aon. Sir Thomas* now sumamed the Hero of ths ChmmonweaUh, received
commissions from the Parliament to reduce all the garrisons that still held
out lor the King in this county ; and Sir Thomas was soon after appointed
Commander-in-Chief of all the forces of the Parliament. The city walls were
put in a state of repair, and no time was test in attempting to subdue the
spirit of loyalty, which still existed in many of the fcMixesses of the county.
Detachmento of troops were sent to besiege them. The siege of Pontefract
Castle commenced on Christmas day. Sir Thomas Faii£Guc having taken pos-
oession of the town in the banning of December.f On the 10th of January,
1645, after an incessant cannonade against the ramparts ci the Castle, the Pix
Tower gave way, and by its fiedl carried part of the walls along with it. The
81^ continued till the garrison was reduced to great distress fi>r want of
provisions. At this period. Sir Marmaduke Langdale, one of the Royalist
Generals, making a rapid march, at the head of 2,000 horse, arrived at Pon-
tefract; attacked the besiegers, who were commanded by Colonek Lambert
and Forbes; and after an obstinate engagement, the Parliamentarians retired
in dis(»der to Ferrybridge, and from tiience towards Sfaerbum and Tadcaster,
dosely pursued by the Boyalists.
On General Langdate's departure, the Parliamentarian irx>ops collected,
and on the dlst of March, 1645, they took possession of the town, and again
lajd siege to the Castle. For four months tibe besieged gallantly withstood
* Hargrove's Hist York, voL L, p. 187. f miteloek, p. 102.
d54 OEKBBAL HISTOBT OF YORKSHIRE.
tihe incessant cannonades, attacks, and sorties of the enemy ; but at length
ledaced to a state of &niine, the ganison surrendered the Castle, by an
honourable capitulation, on the 20th of July. Sir Thomas Fairfax was
appointed Goyemor ; but as he was subsequently employed in the field, he
placed Cotterell in the Castle as his substitute. In 1648, when the war was
drawing near to a conclusion, the royal party being nearly subdued, and the
garrison of Pontefract consisted of only 100 men, the King's friends regained
possession of this important fortress by stratagem. On the 6th of July, in
that year, the Goyemor haying giyen orders for bringing some beds and pro-
yisions out of the country. Colonel Morrice, accompanied by nine others of
the King's officers, disguised like peasants, haying concealed arms, appeared
at the Castle gate with carts laden with beds, proyisions, &c. These thiogs
being deliyered to the main guard, money was giyen to some of the soldiers
to fetch ale ; but scarcely had these departed, when Morrice and his party
attacked and mastered the main guard, made way for their confederates to
enter, took the deputy-Goyemor prisoner, and made themselyes masters of
the Castle. Sir John Digby was then made Goyemor, and a part of the
King's scattered troops, 30 horse and 500 foot, formed the garrison. The
third siege of Pontefract Castle commenced the following October, under the
command of Oliyer Cromwell, who, after endeayouring in yain for a month
to make an impression on its massy walls, retired and joined the grand army
under Fairfax. On the 4th of December General Lambert took charge of
the forces before the Castle, and pushed the siege with the greatest vigour ;
and when the news of the execution of the King, in the following January,
reached the place, the garrison, still besieged, proclaimed his son, Charles
n., and made a rigorous sally against their enemies. On the 25th of March,
1649, the garrison being reduced to 100 men, and some of these unfit for
duty, surrendered by capitulation. The walls of the Castle being much shat-
tered, the Parliament ordered its demolition, and within two months after its
reduction, the buildings were unroofed, and all the valuable materials sold.
Thus was this princely fortress reduced to a heap of ruins.
Soon after the battie of Marston Moor, Migor Beaumont, Goyemor of
Sheffield Castie, was summoned to surrender that fortress to the Parliament-
arians, but the demand was answered by a yoUey of shot, and a> reply that
the garrison " would hold no parley." The besiegers then erected two bat-
teries, and kept their cannon playing upon the fortress for twenty-four hours
without any risible effects. Mcyor-General Crawford, who conducted the
siege, finding that it was Hkely to be protracted, sent to Lord Fairfax for
the " Queen's pocket pistol," and a whole culverin, which, being brought to
I
GENBBAL HISTORY OF T0BK8BIRE. S55
the Spot, played with such fatal effect, that the garrison was obliged to capi-
tolate, and the Castle was surrendered on the 11th of August On the SOth
of April> 1646, the House of Commons directed that the Castle of Sheffield
should be rendered untenable ; and on the Idth of July, in the following
year, the same assembly passed a resolution for the " sleighting and de-
molishing " that ancient structure. On the 3drd of April, 1648, the work of
demolition had begun, and so completely have the ruins themselves been
obliterated, that the site of this once noble stronghold of feudal times — ^in
which the unfortunate Maiy Queen of Scots was for some time detained
a prisoner — is only distinguished by the name of Castle Hill.
In 1644, Leeds and Ripon having previously fallen into the hands of the
Parliamentarians, that party besieged the Castle of Scarborough. On the
18th of February the town, with the church of St Mary, was taken by as-
sault, and Sir Hugh Cholmley, the (xovemor, retired into the Castle. Sir
John Mddrum then made a lodgment in the church, and opened a battery
on the Castle from the east window. The garrison, at the same time, kept
an incessant fire on the church, by which the choir was demolished. On the
17th of May, 1645, the besiegers made a general assault on the Castle, but
were repulsed with great loss. In this assault. Sir John Meldrum received
a mortal wound, of which he died on the Srd of June. Sir Matthew Boynton
was then appointed by the Parliament to the command of the forces before
Scarborough Castle, and after a siege of more than twelve months, the forti-
fications being ruined by incessant battering, the stores nearly exhausted, and
the garrison worn out by excessive fatigue, the brave Governor surrendered
the fortress upon honourable terms. During this memorable siege, square-
shaped silver coins, of the value of 5 s., and 2s. 6d. each, were issued. One
side bore a representation of the Castle, with the inscription, " Obeiditim
Searbarough, 1645," and the reverse the nominal value of the piece.4(
In the latter part of 1645 Skipton Castle surrendered to the Parliament-
azians, after sustaining a siege of three years. Its defenders were permitted
to retain their arms, and retire either to Newark, Oxford, or Hereford. The
Castle was partly demolished in 1649, by an order of Parliament, but the
Countess of Pembroke, the great restorer of ruined edifices, repaired, and
rendered it habitable, though not perhaps tenable as a fortress.
''Cromwell began now to entertain in his own breast those ambitious
views which subsequently placed him on the throne," writes the Bev. Geo.
OUver, '* and he hid them from the world under the cloak of religion. He
• Hinderwell's History of Soarborough, p. 85.
960 OSKERAL BISTORT OP TOBXSHHIE.
was a profeaaed Independent; a sect which pervaded alike the citj, the
caantryy and the camp. All nmks of aocietj were fall of its profesaors.
Soon, in erery town and village, the spirit of fanaticism waa pr^ralent, and
auperseded the chaste and sober practice of genuine religion ; and when the
Independents perceived the superiority thej had acquired over the minds of
the people^ they threw off the mask, and adhered in practice no longer to
the principles they had formerly professed in theory. The flame, long sup-
pressed, now burst forth with an irresistible violence that earned all before
it They openly challenged the superiority, says Hume, and even menaced
the church with that persecution which they afterwards exercised against
her with such severity. They had a minority in the house, and voted the
liturgy an abomination to the godly, and even prohibited the use of it under
heavy penalties. They were not respect^^s of persons; and it was one of
Cromwell*s sayings, that if he met the King in battle, he would fire a ptsto)
in his face as readily as against any other man.* Slaughter and spoliation
irere preceded by long prayers ; and murder, as Holies expresses it, was no
sin to the visible saints. Even the subversion of the altar and the maxdet
of the King were esteemed acts of piety and devotion to Qoi, aond were ac*
eompanied by the outward forms of rdigion. With the bible in their haoids,
the impious regicides brought a virtuous monarch to the block ; with a text
of scripture in their mouths, th^ overthrew the altar and the th»me.'*f
In 1645 the liturgy of the Church of England being abolished, the
lonatical soldiers, quartered in the different towns, robbed the diurohes of
the Books of Common Prayer, and amidst thelondeet and most savage ftcda-
mations of joy — drums beating, and trumpets sounding — committed them to
the flames.
In 1646, after a series of ddbats, the rc^al army was disbanded ,' and the
unfortunate Monarch, despairing of a reconciliation with his enemies, and
finding his personal safety insecure, voluntarily placed himself under the
protection of the Scottirii forces, then at Newaris-apon-Trent. The Lords
and Commons immediately joined in a vote, unprecedented in history, ** That
the person of the King shaU be disposed of, as both Hoi^ses ot Pariiament
should thmk fit"
By the more moderate pttty the war was now oonsidersd to be virtually at
an end ; they expected that the King would agree to the original proposals
of the Parliament, and be content to held the crown as his predacessors held
it; but the moderate party had entirdy lost its influence in Parliament, and
• Hume's En^aad, voL vilL, p. 824. f HisCory of Bevnrley, p. 927.
OEKERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 257
ft new party had arisen in the state^ which hecame an instrument in the
hands of the hold and amhitiotis Cromwell. This latter party was equally
formidable to Royalists, Presbyterians, and Independents. Its founders were
a few fanatics in the army, who enjoyed the reputation of superior godliness.
They called themselves Rationalists, but this name was soon exchanged for
the more expressive appellation of Levellers, In religion they rejected all
coeiciTe authority ; men might establish a public worship at their pleasure,
bat if it were compulsory, it became unlawful and sinful ; and these fanatics
pretended to have discovered in the Bible that the government of Kings was
odious in the sight of God, and contended that in fact Charles had now no
daim to the sceptre.
The Scots having delivered up the person of the King, he was detained as
a captive, successively at Holdenby, or Holmby House, near Northampton ;
Hampton Court, near London ; and in the castles of Carisbrook and Hurst,
in the Isle of Wight. But to return to the annals of York.
In January, 1646, the great convoy, under the conduct of Major-General
Skippon, arrived at York with the sum of J6200,000., which was paid to the
Scottish receiver at the Guild-Hall ; it being the first payment for the arrears
of the ScottLsh army.
In 1647, when the whole country became under the subjection of the Par-
liament, York was dismantled of its garrison, with the exception of Clifford's
ToFwer, of which the Lord Mayor was appointed Governor, and his successors
continued to hold that commission for several years.
On the 13th of March, 1648, Lord Ferdinando Fairfax died at York, and
was succeeded in his title and estates by his son. Sir Thomas. Guizot, in
writing of the latter personage, says that " while the civil war was at its
height, he afforded a most useful protection to literature and literary institu-
tions. By his care^" he adds, "the libraries of York and Oxford were
partially at least preserved from pillage."*
At the Lent Assizes in 1648, held in the city of York, a woman was tried
and condemned for crucifying her mother ; and it is added, that after perpe-
trotiiig the horrid deed, she had offered a calf and a cock for a burnt sacrifice.
Her husband also was hanged for being an accomplice ; and at the same time
twenty-one men and women were executed here for various crimes. Judge
Thorpe, in his chaige to the jury at these Assizes, endeavoured to vindicate
the Parliament in all their proceedings, and to justify the execution of the
King, which was probably then in contemplation.
• Qimot's M&nki ContefnporaHeB.
2 L
258 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
The Levellers, now a powerful faction, were spreading their pernicious
doctrines through all ranks in the army. The King, they said, had bound
himself, at his accession, by oath to protect the liberties of his subjects ; and
as they maintained that he had violated that oath, they argued that they
were released from their allegiance to him. For the decision of the question
he had appealed to the God of battles, who, by the result, had decided against
his pretensions. Ho therefore, they maintained, was answerable for the
blood which had been shed ; and it was the duty of the representatives of the
nation to call him to justice for the crime, and in order to prevent the recur-
rence of similar mischiefs ; as well as to provide for the liberties of all by
founding an equal commonwealth on the general consent. The fanatics went
still further. They had read in the book of Numbers that " blood defileth
the land, and the land cannot be cleansed of the blood that is shed therein,
but by the blood of him that shed it ;" and hence they inferred that it was a
duty imposed on them by the Grod who had given them the victory, to call
the King to a strict account for all the blood which had been shed during the
civil war.
It was now some time since the King had begun to fear for his safety.
He saw that the violence of the Levellers had daily increased ; and that the
government of the kingdom had now devolved in reality on the army. There
were two military councils, one consisting of the principal commanders, the
other of the inferior officers, most of them men of levelling principles ; and
when any measure had received the approbation of the general council of the
army, the House of Commons scarcely dare refuse to impart to it the sanction
of their authority. Indeed no man could be ignorant that the Parliament,
nominally the supreme authority, was under the control of the council of
officers. It had long been the conviction of the officers that the life of the
King was incompatible with their safety ; and that if he were restored, they
would become the objects of royal vengeance. In this state of things we are
not surprised to find the House of Commons declaring by vote, that it was
high treason for the King of England to levy war against the Parliament and
kingdom of England ; and granting an ordinance for the erection of a high
court of justice to tiy the question of fact, whether Charles Stuart, King of
England, had or had not been guilty of the treason described in the preceding
vote. The Lords, seeing the approaching ruin of their own order in the fall
of the Sovereign, rejected both the vote and the ordinance without a dissen-
tient voice ; whereupon the Commons voted that the people, or rather they,
as the representatives of the people, are the origin of all just power; and on
the 20th of January, 1649, the King of England, Scotland, and Ireland, was
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 259
arraigned in Westminster Hall, before sixty-six commissioners, and charged
with being a " tyrant, traitor, murderer, and a public and implacable enemy
to the commonwealth of England." The sequel is well known ; on the 80th
of January — ^ten days after his arraignment — ^he was beheaded. Thus fell
this unfortunate King, who, with all his faults, was worthy of a better fate,
and after his death the monarchy of England was temporally abolished.
Charles was by nature a man of peace, and his bitterest enemies could not
pronounce him a tyrant from a vicious disposition, or from depraved habits.
It was an error in his education, that he had> unhappily, imbibed fialse ideas
of the royal prerogative, which he endeavoured to stretch to its utmost limit ;
and to this source may be traced all the calamities which deformed his reign.
They were purely the fletult of his education, and not of his principles.
Henriette Marie de Bourbon, his Queen, who was, after the death of
Charles, privately married to Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, lived to see the
restoration of her son to the English throne. She died in the month of
August, 1669, at the Castle of Colombo, near Paris, her last years being
chiefly spent in acts of charity and exercises of devotion.
York has little share in the annals of the Commonwealth, or Cromwellian
protectorate. The Lord General does not appear to have ever been in that
city, except at the time of its capture after the battle of Marston Moor, and
another time, being on a progress to Scotland. " On the 4th of July, 1650,"
writes Whitelock, " Cromwell came to York, on his expedition into Scotland,
at which time aU the artillery of the Tower were discharged ; the next day
he dined with the Lord Mayor, and on the following day set forward to Scot-
land. To compliment his Excellency, and to show their zeal for the cause,
the magistrates then thought fit to take down the King's Arms at Micklegate
and Bootham Bars, through both of which he must needs pass in his journey,
and put up the States' Arms in their stead."
On the 8rd of September, 1668 (a day of all others he esteemed the most
fortunate), Cromwell died of a tertian ague at Whitehall,* and was succeeded
by his son Richard, who was proclaimed " the rightful Protector of the Com-
monwealth of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the dominions and terri-
tories thereunto belonging." Adulatory addresses, too, were presented from
most of the boroughs in England, filled with high-sounding panegyrics of
* Oomwell was buried in WestzxunBter Abbey, "with regal pomp, bat Charles U. had
his remains disinterred and thrown into a hole nnder Tyburn. A tradition has been
preserved that some of the friends of the Protector secretly removed the body, and in-
terred it in a spot in the neighbourhood of the present Bed Lion Square, London.
260 GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RK8UIIUC.
Richard's wisdom, greatness of mind, and many other qualities which were
entirely foreign to his moderate unambitious character.
During the Commonwealth, two of the Assizes at York were rendered re-
markable by the attendance of that wonderful instance of human longeyity,
Henry Jenkins. In the first trial, which was heard in 1656, Jenkins vras
brought forward as a witness to prove an ancient road to a mill IdO years
before. The positive terms in which this venerable man spoke, and the
apparent improbability of his memory being able to take such a distinct retro-
spect, struck the judge in so unfavourable a light, that he severely repri-
manded him. But the veteran boldly maintained his assertion, stating, in
further proof of his depositions, that he was then butler to Lord Conyers, of
Hornby Castle, and that his name might be found in an old register of the
menial servants of that nobleman. It is not a little remarkable, that there
were on the same trial, engaged as witnesses on the opposite side, four men,
each about one hundred years old; who, on the judge objecting to the evi-
dence of Jenkins, positively declared that he had been called Old Jenkins as
long as they could remember.
In two years after (1657) the same venerable personage was again at York
Assizes, as a witness on a trial between the Vicar of Catterick and William
and Peter Mawbank. Jenkins deposed to the tithes of wool, lambs, Ac,
having been paid, to his knowledge, more than 120 years before.*
On the night of the 8th of December, 1659, there was a remarkably high
• Henry Jenldns was bom at Ellerton-upon-Swale, in the North-Biding of Yorkshire,
five miles E.S.E. of Richmond, and lived to the amazing age of 169 years. He was bom
before parish registers were in use, but Bishop Lyttletx)n communicated to the Society
of Antiquarians, on the 11th of December, 1766, a paper copied from an old household
book of Sir Richard Graham, Bart., of Norton Conyers, the writing of which says, that
upon his going to live at Bolton, Jenkins was said to be ahout 150 years old, that
he had often examined him in his sister's kitchen, where he came to beg alms, and
found facts and chronicles agree in his account. He was then 162 or 163 years old.
He remembered the dissolution of the monasteries, and said that great lamentation was
made on that occasion ; and he was often at Fountain's Abbey during the residence of
the last Abbot, who he said frequently visited his master. Lord Conyers. He said
that he went to Northallerton with a horse load of arrows for the battle of Hodden
Field, with which a bigger boy went forward to the army under the Earl of Surrey,
King Henry being at that time at Toumay, and he believed himself then eleven or
twelve years old. He died on the 8th of December, 1670, at the place of his birth, where
a monument was erected to his memory, in 1743, the epitaph of which was composed by
Dr. Thomas Chapman, Master of Magdalen College, Cambridge.
Jenkins was contemporary with Thomas Parr, of whom it is recorded that he was
bora in 1483, and lived in the reign of ten monarchs of England. At the age of 180 he
is said to have been able to do husbandry work ; and at the age of 105, it is stated in
aENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHlBB. 361
wind, such as had never before been experienced in the country. The
Cathedral and many of the dwelling houses at York were seriously injured*
When the plan for the restoration of the monarchy was nearly complete
for execution, the county of York was well disposed to promote it Lord
Fairfax was become a convert to the cause of monarchy ; to him the numerous
Royalists in Yorkshire looked up afl a leader ; and he, on the solemn assu-
rance of Qeneral Monk, afterwards Duke of Albemarle (who had been chiefly
instrumental in the re-establishment of kingly government) that he would
join him in twelve days, or perish in the attempt, imdertook to call together
his friends, and to surprise the city of York. On the 1st of January, 1660,
each performed his promise. The gates of York were thrown open to Fairfax
by the Cavaliers confined within its walls ; and Monk, who had been with
his army in Scotland, crossed the Tweed, and marched against the advanced
posts of the enemy, then commanded by General Lambert. Thus the flame
of civil war was again kindled in the north ; but within two days it was again
extinguished. Lambert's army was ordered by the Parliament to retire, and
Monk continued his march to York, where he spent five days in consultation
with Fair&x. On the arrival of an invitation to Westminster, Monk resinned
his march, and Fairfiu having received the thanks of the Parliament, dis-
banded his insurrectionaiy force.
Charles IE. was proclaimed in London on the 8th, and at York, with the
greatest solemnity, on the 11th of May, 1660. " On that day the Lord
Mayor, Aldermen, &c, on horseback, in their richest habits, preceded the
cayalcade; next followed the Chamberlains and Common Councilmen on
foot, in their gowns ; these were attended by more than a thousand citizens
under arms ; and lastiy, came a troop of coimtiy gentiemen, near three hun-
dred, with Lord Fairfax at their head, who all rode with their swords drawn,
and hats upon the points of them. When the proclamation was read at the
usual places, the bells rung, the cannon roared from the tower, and the
soldiers fired several volleys ; and at night were bonfires, illuminations, Sso.,
with every other demonstration of joy."*
His Majesty made his public entrance into London on the 29th of the
same month, it being his birthday ; and on that occasion the inhabitants of
York expressed their loyalty by suspending upon a gaUows, erected in the
Oldy'B MS. notes on Fuller's Worthies, that he did penance in Alderbaiy Chorch, for
lying yrith Katherine Milton and getting her with child. He died in 1635, aged 153
years and 0 months, and it is said that his remains rest among the eminent dead in
Westminster Abbey.
* Allen's History of Yorkshire, p. 176.
26/i OENEIUL HISTOBT OF YORKSHIRE.
Pavement for that purpose, the effigies of Cromwell, clothed in pink satin,
and Judge Bradshaw, habited in a Judge's robe, and then burning them in
tar barrels ; together with the arms of the Commonwealth and the Scotch
covenant. Never perhaps did any event in the history of this nation produce
such general and exuberant joy as the return of Charles to the throne of his
feithers. The people attributed to the abolition of monarchy, all the evils
which they had suffered ; and from its restoration they predicted the revival
of peace and prosperity.
Three years after the Restoration a number of fanatics, headed by conven-
ticle preachers, and old Parliamentarian soldiers, attempted to revive the old
party feeling, which had then gradually subsided. The objects of this rem-
nant of the Parliamentary fEU^tion, as expressed in their printed declarations,
were to establish a gospel magistracy and ministry ; to restore the long Par-
liament ; and to reform all ranks and degrees of men, especially the lawyers
and clergy. They assembled in arms in great numbers, at Farnley Wood,
in Yorkshire, but the time and place of their rendezvous being known, a
body of regular troops, with some of the county militia, was sent against
them, and several of them were seized and further mischief thereby prevented.
The principal leaders were shortly after tried by a special commission at
York, and twenty-one of them were condemned and executed ; two of them
were also quartered, and their mutilated bodies placed over the several gates
of the city. The heads of four of them were placed over Micklegate Bar ;
three over Bootham Bar; one upon Walmgate Bar; and three over the
gates of the Castle. At the trial of these insurgents, one of them, named
Per^prine Comey, had the boldness to tell the judge that he valued his life
no more than his handkerchief.
In the year 1666, during the time that the plague raged violently in
London,'!' James, Duke of York (afterwards James II.), and his Duchess
spent nearly two months in the dty of York. They were met, on their
• This dreadful epidemic made its appearance in London in tJbie month of Jane, 1665,
and oontinned till the beginning of the year following, during which time more than
100,000 persons are said to have died of it. The houses of infected families were ordered
to be shut up for a month, and a flaming red cross, one foot in length, was painted on
the doors of such houses, with the words, " Lord have mercy on us," placed above it;
and the wretched inmates were doomed to remain under the same roof communicating
death one to the other. The pest-cart went round at night to receive the victims of the
last twenty-four hours. No cofEins were prepared; no Aineral service was read; no
mourners were permitted to follow the remains of their relatives or Mends. The cart
proceeded to the nearest cemetery, and shot its burden into the common grave, a d^ep
and spacious pit, capable of holding some scores of bodies.
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 963
arrival at Tadcaster bridge, by the Sheriffisi, and at Micklegate Bar by the
Lord Mayor and Corporation, and conveyed through the city with every
demonstration of loyalty and affection. At their departure the Duke and
Duchess expressed the highest satisfaction at the honour and attention paid
them. Three years afterwards, the Duke, who had hitherto been an obedient
and zealous son of the Church of England, had his religious credulity shaken,
we are told, by reading Dr. Heylin*s History of the Reformation ; and the
result of an enquiry which followed, was a conviction that it became his duty
to reconcile himself with the Church of Rome. In 1679, wheikthe Bill of
Exclusion was brought forward in Parliament, the Duke, judging it expedient
to retire from court, went to Edinburgh, and in passing through York he
was received with much less cordiality than on the occasion of his former
visit Although the Sheiifis met him at Tadcaster, the Lord Mayor and
Aldermen did not receive him at the gate of the city ; and this defect of cere-
mony drew on the magistrates the resentment of the King, and the offending
parties received a reprimand signed by the Secretary of State.
It having been discovered that several boroughs, by the exercise of those
exclusive privil^es which had been conferred on them by ancient grants
from the crown, had grown into asylums of public malefactors, and on that
account were presented as nuisances by the grand jurors at the county
Assizes. Writs of quo warranto were issued, and the old were replaced by
new charters, which, while they preserved to the inhabitants the most useful
of their former liberties, cut off the great source of the evil, by giving to the
county magistrates a concurrent jurisdiction with those of the borough.
In January, 1684, a quo warrarUo was granted against the Corporation of
York. In this instrument the members of that body were commanded to
show how they came to '' usurp " to themselves several liberties which they
ei\joyed ; and their charter, which was demanded for perusal, was suspended.
Some of the historians of Toric pretend that this proceeding on the part of
the King towards the Corporation, was intended as a punishment on the
citizens for the coolness which they exhibited towards the Duke of York in
1679 ; but we cannot understand how this opinion can be entertained, seeing
that the Corporations of several other boroughs were treated in a similar
manner. The year in which the charter was demanded, the notorious Jef-
freys attended at York as one of the Judges of Assize, and being interrogated
by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen concerning the King*s intentions relative
to the city, he remarked that his Mijesty expected to have the govcrment of
the city at his own disposal; hence it is thought that the city was con-
sidered disaffected. The Judge however recommended that an address or
UQi OENEBAL HISTOBY OF TOBKBHIBB.
petition should be prepared by the Corporation, which he would get presented
to the King. This advice was complied with, and in reply Charles ordered
Jefirejs to communicate to them his intention of granting them a new
charter, in which he should reserve to himself only " the nomination and
approbation of the magistrates, and persons in office therein/* The death of
the King, in February, 1685, however prevented the fulfilment of his promise.
James, Duke of York, now succeeded to the throne, under the title of
James 11., and on the day of his accession, in a speech to the Privy Council^
he promised to preserve the government, both in church and state, as it was
then by law established ; and to take care to defend and support the prin-
ciples of the Church of England, knowing, as he did, that its members have
shown themselves good and loyal subjects. On the petition of the citizens
of York, the new Monarch restored or renewed their charter. In 1687,
according to an ancient record, " begun lamps to be hung up in the chief
streets of the city ; viz., at the Minster gates, the west end of Ouse bridgOi
in the Pavement, Ssc,;" but it is on record that in the reign of Charles IT.
the city was lighted by twenty-four large lanterns hung at the comers of the
principal streets. The shock of an earthquake was experienced in Fease-
gate, in this city, on the 12th of February, in the same year. At Gk&te-
Fulford, about a mile and a half from York, it was more seriously felt; and
a subterraneous noise was heard on the occasion, similar to the roaring of a
cannon.
In 1688, it appears that James, not approving of all the members of the
Corporation, and in virtue of a power which he had reserved to himself, in the
last charter, of regulating that body, despatched a messenger to displace the
Lord Mayor, Thomas Raynes, and seyeral of the Aldermen, and others ; and
on the 5th of October he appointed in their place men professing the Catholic
religion, but who were not even freemen of the city. The latter circum-
stance afforded the Lord Mayor a pretext for not delivering up the sword and
mace ; but the office, nevertheless, was declared vacant till tiie d4th of the
same month, when James thought it expedient to adopt a different course.
Sir John Reresby, the Governor of York, in his memoirs, tells us of the very
peculiar situation in which the city at that time was placed. ** It was," he
says, "an archbishopric without an archbishop; a city without a mayor;
and a garrison without a soldier." " But," he adds, " these defects were soon
supplied — ^the old charter was restored, and the old Lord Mayor therewith —
the Bishop of Exeter, who fled from that city upon the Prince of Orange's
landing, wto made Archbishop of York — and I had one company of foot sent
to continue with me."
OENEBAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. d65
York was connected with seTeral of the proceedings which led to the revo-
lution towards the dose of this year. It was now fully believed that his zeal
for the religions tenets he professed, was leading the King into measures
subversive of the English constitution. He had attempted to introduce the
Catholic religion into this city, and for this purpose had converted one of the
large rooms of the Manor House into a chapel, in which the services of that
creed were celebrated. This attempt, together with some arbitrary proceed-
ings on the part of the court, gave great offence to the people ; still James
had many enthusiastio admirers and loyal subjects in the city and county of
York. Rumours were being daily spread that William, Prince of Orange,
nephew and son-in-law of the King, was preparing to land in this country
with a considerable force, as the decided champion of the Protestant religion.
The ten deputy-lieutenants of this county then resided at York, and after a
eonsultation, a meeting of the gentry and freeholders of the county was ap-
pointed to take place at York on Thursday, the 19th of November, for the
purpose of voting a loyal address to the King in this season of danger ; as
well as &r considmng the best means to pursue for the preservation of the
peace.
At this juncture, the clerk of the West Riding received a new commission,
in which the names of about thirty gentlemen in the neighbourhood, who had
previously acted as magistrates, were omitted. This circumstance gready
eacasperated these magistrates, and none, perhaps, felt it more keenly than
Sir Henry Goodrick, the proposer of the above-mentioned meeting. It was
now srea(dv6d to add to their address a petition to the King, for a free Parlia-
menty and redress of grievances. The Duke of Newcastle, Lord Lieutenant
of tibe eounty, arrived in the city to preside at the county meeting, but find-
ing that aevenl of the deputy-Lieutenants had joined with the citizens and
diwniwBed magistrates in their petition, left the city in disgust. The meeting
took place in the Guild-Hall, on the 22nd of November, 1688, and the Gover-
nor, in his Memoirs before quoted, informs us that in the midst of about
100 gentlemen who met, Sir Henry Goodrick delivered himself to this effect,
** That there having been great endeavours made by government of late years
to bring popery into the kingdom, and by many devices, to set at nought the
laws of the land, there could be no proper redress of the many grievances we
laboured under, but by a free Parliament; that now was the only time to
prefer a petition of that sort ; and that they could not imitate a better pattern
than had been set before them by several Lords, spiritual and temporal."
During the proceedings a false rumour was raised *' that the Papists were
risen ; and that they had actually fired upon the Militia troops." Alarmed
2 M
260 OENEBAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIEfi.
at this, the party mshed from the hall, and Lord Danby, Lord Lnmleyi Lord
Horton, Lord Willoughbj, aad others, who, together with their servants,
being mounted, formed a body of horse consisting of about 100 in number,
rode up to the troops of Militia, at that time on parade, crying out, " A free
Parliament, the Protestant religion, and no popery." The Captains of the
four troops of Militia were Lord Fairfax, Sir Thomas Gower, Mr. Robinson,
and Captain Tankard, and being in the secret of the fiodse alarm, immediately
cried out the same, and led their troops to join them. They then made pri-
soners of the Goyemor and his inferior o£Qicers, took possession of the guard
house, placed guards at the several entrances leading into the town ; none
were suffered to enter or leave the city, and every person was secured who
displayed any disapprobation of their proceedings.* On the following day
they summoned a public meeting, passed resolutions, and issued a declara-
tion explanatory of their proceedings. On the 29th of the same month, a
mob assembled in the city, and attacked, plundered, and destroyed the houses
of the principal Catholics, and committed great outrages in their chapels.
They threw down the altars, destroyed all the pictures and statues, and
burnt the books and vestments of the priests, in Coney Street and the Pave-
ment. The Lord Mayor and commonalty of York now followed the example
of the rest of the kingdom, by openly recognising the Prince of Orange as
Sovereign of England, under the title of William HI., and offered him their
cordial and grateful acknowledgments in an address of congratulation, dated
December 14th, 1688.
William, together with Mary, his Princess, were proclaimed King and
Queen of England, Franqe, and Ireland, in this dty, on the 17th of Feb-
ruary, 1680, in the presence of many thousands of spectators. In the month
of October following, the river Ouse so much overflowed its banks, that
during three successive days the use of boats was necessary at the west end
of the bridge. .
A number of Danish soldiers, amounting to 5,000 foot and 1,000 horse,
commanded by the Duke of Wirtemburg, were quartered in York and its
neighbourhood during the winter of this year, and they took their departure
for Ireland in the following spring.
Nearly thirty houses were consumed by fire in High Ousegate, on tlie
night of Monday, the dnd of April, 1694. The fire broke out on the premises
of Mr. Charles HaJl, a flax dresser, and in a short time it raged with such
violence, that the houses on both sides of the way were enveloped in one
* Sir John Beresby's Memoirs.
I
I
GENERAL HISTORY OF T0RK8HIBE. 207
tremendous conflagration. The loss was computed at £30,000. In 1606,
one of the Ejng*s mints was erected in the Manor House, at York, and
bullion and plate was there coined to the amount of £380,621.
In the month of May, 1722, a great flood happened at Eipponden, in the
parish of Halifax. Between the hours of three and five in the afternoon, the
water rose twenty-one feet perpendicular, and bore down in its course many
bridges, mills, and houses, and several lives were lost Part of the church-
yard was washed away, the graves were laid open, and a coffin floated down
the stream a considerable distance. The church was so much damaged, that
a new chapel ¥ras built soon after the flood.
The summer of the following year was remarkable for a great and general
drought. At York, the river to the base of the middle arch of Ouse Bridge
was completely dry for several yards round.
No public transaction of material consequence occurred in the city or
county of 'York, firom the period of the accession of William and Mary till
the memorable rebellion of 1745. In the annals of England there have been
many struggles for the crown, sometimes terminating fJEivourably on one side,
sometimes on the other ; that which took place between the Pretender, the
lineal descendant of our Scottish Kings, and the House of Hanover, is one of
the most memorable, and is the last that we have had in England in the
shape of civil war and bloodshed. Many of the most powerful of the
Scottish chieftains — ^renowned for the antiquity of their fkmilies, their ex-
tensive domains, and the affection bom them by their dependents — ^were
arrayed on the side of the Pretender. The attachment of the highland clans
to their chieftains, and which is undying, is transmitted from generation to
generation, and to this time it remains in nearly all its patriarchal purity.
Relying upon the ancient aifection which subsisted between his family and
these hardy mountaineers, the Chevalier, Prince Charles Edward Stuart,
eldest son of the Pretender — and, as he is generally called, the " young Pre-
tender"— ^resolved to try his fortune amongst them, and regain for his family
that rule which had formerly resided with his progenitors. For this purpose,
after escaping the vigilance of the English cruisers, which, from information
received by the English government, had been sent out to intercept him, he
landed on the coast of Scotland, on the 25th of July, 1745.
The first account of his landing was scarcely credited ; and when the news
had become fully established, all Europe was astonished at the daring enter-
prise. Upon promulgating his intentions, the brave clans assembled around
him, hoisted their banners, and early in November he marched southward,
and entered England with the Duke of Perth, the Marquis of Tullibardine,
368 GENERAL BISTORT OF YORKSHIRE.
the Earl of Kilmarnock, and an army of about 8000 or 9000 men. On the
9th of that month they laid siege to Carlisle, which was feebly garrisoned ;
and on the 15th, the gates were thrown open to the rebel army, and
Charles Edward was proclaimed King of England at the cross in the Mar-
ket-place. The Corporation attended the ceremony in their robes, with the
mace and sword carried before them, and on their knees they presented the
keys of the city to the Prince. From Carlisle the Scots marched southward
as far as Derby, at which point divisions arose amongst them ; they hesitated,
retreated, and arrived at Carhsle on the 19 th of December, in great con-
fusion, the Duke of Cumberland's horse pressing upon their rear. Next day
the Prince moved northward, leaving 400 men in the garrison of Carlisle.
The Duke reached the latter city on the 21st, at the head of his army, and
commenced the siege. The rebel garrison, animated with great courage and
fidelity to their Prince, made a gallant but unavailing defence, for on the SOth
of December the Castle wad surrendered to the King's tioops, and the
garrison was made prisoners of.
Of the Manchester regiment who surrendered themselves prisoners, there
were Colonel Townley, 5 Captains, 6 Lieutenants, 7 Ensigns, 1 Acyutant,
and 93 non-commissioned officers ; and in addition to the Governor and Sur-
geon, there were 16 officers and 266 non-commissioned officers and private
men of the Scotch, making a total number of 896 prisoners, including Cop-
pock, commonly called the " Mock Bishop" Many of the officers, including
Townley, Governor of the city, and Hamilton, Governor of the Castle, were
executed in London, with all the revolting and disgusting details observed in
cases of high treason ; and their heads were exhibited on Temple Bar, Lon-
don Bridge, and in public situations in Carlisle, Manchester, and other places.
Majiy others who were concerned afterwards died on the block, including the
Earl of Derwentwater ; about 50 were executed as deserters in different parts
of Scotland ; and 81 suffered as traitors after the decisive battle of CuUoden,
which was fought in the month of April following, and which sealed the fJEite
of Charles Edward, who now became a fugitive, and at length escaped to
France, after the failure of the second attempt of the expelled house of Stuart
to restore themselves to the throne of their ancestors.
During this rebellion, the city as well as the county of York gave the most
unequivocal proofs of loyalty to the reigning dynasty. The Archbishop pro-
jected an association, consisting of more than 800 of the principal nobility,
gentry, and clergy, of the county, which was formed at the Castle of York,
on the 34th day of September, 1745. A subscription was immediately
entered into, and the sum of JS31,4S0. was raised for the support of the
GENERAL HISTOBY OF YORKSHIRE. S69
Goyemment and the defence of the oountj. John Raper, the Lord Major,
convened a meeting of the inhabitants for the same purpose, when the sub-
scription in the city amounted to jSd,4dO., and to iS330. in the Ainsty.
With these sums four companies of in&ntry, of serenty men each, exclusiYe
of sergeants, corporals, and drummers, were raised, and designated the
** Yorkshire Blues.'* They remained embodied about four months, the su-
perior officers serving without pay, and the sergeants receiving 14s., the
drummers, lOs., and the privates, 7s. per week. Another military body,
called the " Independents," was formed, for the defence of the city, by the
gentLemen and other principal inhabitants. Their uniform and accoutre-
ments were purchased at their own ezpence, and the corps remained undeor
anus ten months.
On the 29th of May, 1746, the Prince of Hesse passed one night in York,
on his way from Scotland to London. On the 23rd of July, in the same
year, his Boyal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, on his return to London
£rom the defeat of the rebeb at the battle of GuUoden, visited York, and was
received with all the honours due to his illustrious rank and eminent services.
On this occasion the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Sheriffs, presented him
with the £reedom of the city in a gold box. A number of the rebels were
tried and convicted at York, and of these twenly-two were executed. The
heads of two of them, William Conolly and James Mayne, were fixed upon
poles over Micklegate Bar, from whence they were stolen in the night of the
SSth of January, 1754, by a tailor of York, named William Arundell, assisted
by his journeyman. Arundell was tried and convicted for the offence at the
Spring Assizes following, and sentenced to pay a fine a fine of £5., and to be
imprisoned two years.
Li 1757 the new regulations for levying the Mihtia, which obliged the
poor to contribute equally with the rich, produced a spirit of insubordination
in the North and East Hidings of Yorkshire, and on the 15th of September,
a large body of the country people, from more than thirty parishes, assembled
at York, with intent to prevent the constables from presenting the Hsts of
men subject to the ballot. Armed with clubs and other unlawful weapons,
they proceeded to the Cockpit-house, without Bootham Bar, where the deputy
Lieutenants and chief constables were to have assembled ; and not meeting
with the first named officers as they expected, they forced the lists firom such
constables as were in attendance, and after drinking all the liquors, they
demolished the house. They then plundered and destroyed the house of Mr.
Bowes, on the opposite side of the street, and threatened to pull down the
houses of other persons whom they considered as promoters or favourers of
370 GENEIUL HISTOBY OF TOBKSHIBE.
the Militia Act At length the rioters were prevailed upon to disperse, by
the Lord Mayor and High Sheriff; and at the ensuing Assizes several of
them were tried and acquitted. Only one, named George Thurloe, received
sentence of death, but his punishment was afterwards commuted to trans-
portation for life. A man of the name of Cole was condemned and executed
for being the leader of a riot, on the same occasion, in the East Riding.
On the 18th of July, 1761, Edward, Duke of York, passed through this
city on his way to Scarborough, whither he was going for the benefit of his
health. During his sojourn at the latter place, the Lord Major (Thomas
Bowes, Esq.), the Recorder (Peter Johnson, Esq.), and two senior Aldermen,
waited upon his Royal ELighness, to request that he would honour York, on
lus return, by spending some tune in the dty. The Duke was pleased to ac-
cept the invitation, the Manor House was offered for his accommodation, and
on the 19th of August he arrived at York. He alighted at the Minster, sur-
veyed that splendid edifice, and then proceeded to the Mansion House, the
streets being lined with Colonel Thornton's Militia. At the Mansion House
the royal visitor was received by the Lord Mayor, Recorder, Aldermen, and
Sheriffs ; and the freedom of the city was presented to him, in a gold box of
the value of 100 guineas. The Duke dined with the Lord Mayor, the Eail
of Gainsborough, and a great number of the gentiy, at the Mansion House ;
and in the evening he opened a ball at the Assembly Rooms, .with the sister
of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart., then High Sheriff of the county. He lodged
that night at the Mansion House, and on the following morning repaired to
the race-ground, where he reviewed Colonel Thornton's Militia. He break-
fasted at the grand stand, and after communicating the usual compliments of
satisfaction, &c,, proceeded to London.*
The King of Denmark, attended by many of his nobles and a numerous
retinue, feivoured York with a short visit on the dlst of August in the same
year. His Majesty was pleased to receive the formalities of the Coipoiation ;
and the following day he left York, after vievnng the Cathedral and the
Assembly Rooms ; and he returned by way of Leeds and Manchester to
London.
On the 8th of January, 1762, war was formally declared in York against
the King of Spain ; and on the following day a similar declaration was read
at the Castle, by the under Sheriff, in the presence of the High Sheriff of the
county, attended by two regiments of Militia and several gentlemen.
In the same year a violent hurricane was experienced at York. It com-
* Hargrove's Histoiy of York, vol. i., p. 286.
OENSIUL HISTOBY OF TOBKSBIBE. S71
menced at nine o'clock on the evening of Saturday, the let of December, and
oontinued till eight the next morning. Part of the batdement at the west
end of the Minster was blown down, and many bouses in the city were yery
much damaged.
Edward, the royal Duke, who derived his title from this ancient metro*
pedis, again visited York on the 18th of August^ 1766 ; and on that occasion
he patronized the national sport, by honouring with his presence the races
on Ejiavesmire. Never was a more brilliant race meeting at York than this.
On Sunday, his Royal Highness attended divine service at the Cathedral, at
the west door of which he was received by the residentary Canons and choir,
as well as by the Lord Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen, and conducted to the
archiepisoopal throna On Monday he set out for Mr. Cholzaley*8 seat, at
Housham, on his way to Scarborough ; and on the 6th of September he left
Scarborough, and passed through York, en route to the Earl of Mexborough's
seat at Methley, from wbence he proceeded to London.
Count de Guigues, the French Ambassador, being on a tour to the north,
passed through York on the S2nd of October, 177d. He was honoured
with a guard of General Mordaunt's dragoons ; but not approving of the for-
mality, he gave the men twelve guineas, and dismissed them. Li the month
of September, 1777, a slight shock of an earthquake was experienced at York;
but it was felt more violently at the same time at Leeds and Manchester.
In the year 1779 the inhabitants of the Yorkshire coast were frequently
thrown into a state of alarm by that intrepid Anglo-American buccaneer,
Paul Jones. " This man had formerly been in the service of the Earl of
Selkirk, whence he was expelled with disgrace," writes Allen,* " and having
repaired to America, he volunteered to make a descent on the British coast.
Being at first entrusted with the command of a privateer, he landed on the
coast of Scotland, and, in resentment, plundered the mansion of his former
master; he also burnt several vessels at Whitehaven, and performed a num-
ber of other daring exploits. These services insured his promotion, and
procured him the command of a small squadron, consisting of the Bon Homme
Richard, and the Alliance, each of forty guns ; the Pallas, of thirty-two guns;
and the Vengeance, armed brig. With this force he made many valuable
captures, insulted the coast of Lneland, and even threatened the city of Edin-
buiigh. On Monday, the dOth of September, 1770, an express arrived at
Bridlington, from the bailiffo of Scarborough, with intelligence that an enemy
was cruising o£f the ooast The same night the hostile squadron was des-
^ History of Yorkshire, pp. 104, 195.
j)7d OEMBBAL HISTOBY OF TOBKSHIRE.
cried off Flamborough, and it was soon discovered that Paul Jones was the
commander. In the night of Tuesdaji a krge fleet of British coasting vessels
sailed into the bay of Bridlington, and the harbour became so completelj
crowded) that a great number could only find security in being chained to
each other on the outside of the piers. Two companies of the Northumber-
land Militia, then quartered in the town, were called to arms by beat of drum
after midnight, and the inhabitants, armed witli such weapons as could be
most readily procured, proceeded to muster at the Quay, while a number of
the more opulent were making preparations for sending their fftmiliflB into
the interior. Business was now completely at a stand, and the attention of
all was directed to the expected invasion. On Thursday a valuable fleet of
British merchantmen, from the Baltic, under the convoy of the Serapis,
Captain Pearson, of forty-four guns ; and the Countess of Scarborough, Cap-
tain Piercey, of twenty-two guns, hove in sight, and were chased by the
enemy. The first care of Captain Pearson was to place himself between the
enemy and his convoy ; by which manceuvre he enabled the whole of the
merchantmen to escape in safety into the port of Scarborough. Night had
now come on, but the moon shone with unusual brightness. About half-past
seven o*clock the thunder of the cannon announced thai the ^igagement bad
commenced, and the inhabitants of the coast, on hastening to the cUBrn, were
presented with the sublime spectacle of a naval engagement by moonlight
The battle raged with unabated fiuy for two hours, when at length Captain
Pearson, who was engaged by the two largest of the enemy^s fieigatas, waa
compeQed to surrender. Captain Piercey made also a long and gallant de-
lence against a superior force, but he waa in the end obliged to strike to the
Pallas. The enemy purchased the victory at a prodigious price, not less than
three hundred men being killed or wounded in the Bon Homme Richard
alone, which vessel received so much injury, that she sunk the next day with
many of the wounded on board.**
In 178d orders were issued by Government for a general aasodation, to
enable tlie inhabitants of Britain to resist an invasion, said to have been in-
tended by the Monarchs of France and Spain, assisted by the Dutch. In
answer to this order, a corps of gentlemen volunteers were embodied at York*
who provided tiieir own arms and accoutrements, but were under no other
control than that of the civil magistrates ; and four companies of men in
humbler lifo were embodied, supported, and paid out of a general subscription
raised for the purpose, and to which the Corporation generously voted the sum
of iS500.i' The latter corps, however, were under military law, and were
• Hargrove's Histoiy of York, vol. i., p. 257.
I
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. Q73
liable to be marched out to any part of the kingdom, in case of actual in-
vasion or rebellion.
On the dOth of July, 1782, that celebrated statesman, the Marquis of
Rockingham, Lord Lieutenant of the county, was buried in the Cathedral
with much ceremony and solemnity. Several members of a political society-
formed in York, under the patronage of this distinguished nobleman, and in
honour of him called the " Rockingham Club," assembled in the Minster
Yard, and thence proceeded in a body to Dringhouses, about one mile and
a half from the city. At this place they met the corpse, attended by
a numerous cavalcade, which they joined ; and the procession, which con-
sisted of about 200 citizens on horseback, two and two ; several gentlemen
bearing banners, bannerols, &c., attended by pages; the hearse, bearing
escutcheons, and containing the body, in a coffin covered with crimson velvet
superbly ornamented ; six mourning coaches with six horses each ; and
twenty carriages with the principal gentlemen of the county and city ; moved
with slow and solemn pace to the Cathedral. The body was placed in the
choir during evening prayers, and then deposited in the vault with great
solemnity.
In the winter of 1784, which was exceedingly severe all over Europe, the
river Ouse was firmly frozen during eight successive weeks. The labouring
classes of society suffered much, but a subscription was raised, and bread and
coals were distributed gratis to upwards of 6,000 indigent individuals. The
price of coals was so enhanced with the carriage by land, that they were
sold at 80s. per chaldron. The effects of the thaw were very unpleasant.
The Ouse rose so high that the houses in many parts were inundated, and
the inhabitants were obliged to move about in carts.
On Monday, the dlst of August, 1789, the Prince of Wales, afterwards
Ejng George TV., accompanied by his royal brother, the Duke of York,
visited the races of this city. Their Royal Highnesses arrived in their car-
riage, and alighted at some distance from the Grand Stand, where they rode
about on horseback, to gratify public curiosity with a sight of their persons.
At the conclusion of the day's sport they entered the carriage of the Earl
Fitzwilliam, and proceeded towards the city. At Micklegate Bar the popu-
lace took the horses from the carriage, and drew them through the streets
amidst loud congratulations. The following day the Corporation presented
the Heir-apparent with the freedom of the city, in an elegant gold box ; and
on Thursday in the same week, his Royal Highness dined with the Lord
Mayor, at the Mansion House, in company with the Dukes of Norfolk, Bed-
ford, and Queensberry ; the Earls of Derby, Einnoul, and Fauconbei^g ; the
2 N
d74 GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE.
Lords Clermont, Downe, Loughborough, Henry Fitzgerald, Rawden, Grey,
Fitzroj, Fielding, and George Henry Cavendish ; Sir William Milner, Sir
Thomas Dundas, Sir James Sinclair, Sir George Armitage, &c. On the
following Saturday these two royal personages proceeded to Castle Howard,
the seat of the Earl of Carlisle, having previously ordered Lieutenant Colonel
St Leger to pay into the hands of Walter Fawkes, Esq., High Sheriff of the
county, 200 guineas for the relief of debtors in the Castle. Th^ also gave
twenty guineas for the purpose of clothing some female convicts, who had
been ordered for transportation ; and, in addition to these benevolent donar
tions, the Prince of Wales discharged the debts of three prisoners in Ouse-
Bridge Gaol, and performed several other acts of charity.
That eminent statesman, Charles James Fox, visited York on Monday in
the August race week, 1791, and whilst approaching the city, seated in a
carriage with the Earl Fitzwilliam, the populace took the horses from the
carriage, and drew it through the principal streets to the Deaiiery. A grand
dinner was given to him, and many noblemen and gentlemen, at the Mansion
House, and he was presented with the freedom of the city, m a gold box
of the value of fifty guineas.
On the Idth of January, 1792, a singular meteoric appearance — an aerial
army — was observed near the village of Stockton-in-the-Forest, about four
miles from York, by many persons of credit and respectability. This strange
atmospherical phenomenon resembled a large army, in separate divisions,
some in black and others in white uniforms ; one of these divisions formed a
line that seemed nearly a mile in extent, and in the midst of which appeared
a number of fir trees, which moved along with the line. These aerial troopers
moved with great rapidity and in different directions.*
In the month of June, 1794, the country at large being in a very unsettled
state, the respectable inhabitants of York enrolled themselves in different
corps of infantry, and provided themselves with uniforms, arms, &c, ; but the
o On the 23rd of June, 1744, about seven o'clock in the evening, troops of horsemen
were seen riding along the side of SouterfeU (Cumberland) in pretty dose ranks, and
at a brisk pace. Opposite Blake hills they passed over the mountain, after describing a
kind of curvilineal path. They continued to be seen for upwards of two hours, the
approach of darkness alone preventing them fVom being visible. Many troops were seen
in succession, and frequently the last but one in a troop quitted his position, galloped
to the front, and took up the same i>ace with the rest About twenty-six persons in
perfect health saw these aerial troopers. — Clarke's Sturvey of the Ldkei. Similar phe-
nomena were seen at Harrogate, on the 28th of June, 1812 ; and near St. Neots, in
Huntingdonshire, in 1620. Aerial phenomena of a like nature are recorded by Iivy»
Josephus, and Suetonius ; and a passage in Sacred History seems to refer to a like cir-
cumstance. (See Judges, ix., 36). Philosophers aooount for these appearances on ti^e
GENERAL HISTORY 07 70RE8HIRE. 276
non-commissioned officers were regularly paid, hj a general subscription
raised for that purpose, towards which the Corporation contributed £500.
This loyul body of infantry assembled on Enavesmire, on the 28th of De-
cember following, when they were presemted with colours by the Lady
Mayoress, in the name of the ladies of York.
In November, 1796, Prince William Frederick of Gloucester visited
Scarborough, and, on his return to the south, spent some time in York, and
was presented with the freedom of the city in a gold box, with the usual
formalities. He left; York on the 12th of January, 1796.
In 1805, the Right Hon. John, Earl of St Vincent, the great naval com-
mander, honoured this city with a visit, and received its freedom in a box of
" Heart of Oak."
At the Assizes held at York, in March, 1809, Mary Bateman, a celebrated
''Yorkshire Witch," was tried and condemned for murder. This wretched
creature had previously lived in York as a servant, but left it in disgrace,
being charged with a petty theft, and retired to Leeds, where she married.
For a long penod she practised the art and mystery of fortune telling at
Leeds, dduding multitudes, defruuding them of their property under the false
pretence of giving them a " peep into futurity." To enable her to accomplish
her viUany, and in order to prevent detection of the fraud, there is reason to
believe that, with the aid of the poisonous cup, she closed the mouths of
many for ever. For one of these murders she was committed to York Castle,
tried, found guilty, and on Monday, the 20th of March, she was executed, at
the new drop behind the Castle, in the presence of an immense concourse of
people ; and such was the stupid in&tuation of the crowd, that many are said
to have entertained the idea, that at the last moment she would evade the
punishment, about to be inflicted, by her supernatural powers. And to view
her lifeless remains — perhaps with a view of proving that she was of a verily
dead— crowds of people assembled at Leeds, though the hearse did not arrive
principle of atmospherioal refhiction. Many in this countiy considered them as ominous
of the great waste of blood spilt by Britain in her wars with America and France.
Shakespeare says, in the tragedy of Julius Csesar, —
** There ie one within,
ReeovBto most horrid vUou teen to-night :
Fierce flery warriore foaght upon the doadi,
Which drioled blood npon the Capitol ;
The iMriae of battle hurtled in the air.
And ghoets did shriek and gibber in the streets.
• • • •
When these piodigies do so eo^joiiitljr meet,
Let no man say they are natural ; for I beliere
They ai« portentous things unto the dfanate that they point upon."
276 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
there till near midnight, atid each paid threepence for a sight W the body ;
by which £S0. accrued to the benefit of the General Infirmary.
On the occasion of his Majesty George m. having entered the 60th year
of his reign, the anniversary, October 26th (1809), was celebrated throughout
the country as a day of jubilee. At York, several hundred pounds were
collected at a public meeting, and expended — not in wasteful and unmeaning
illuminations — but in feeding the hungry, and in relieving the indigent.
Public breakfasts, ward dinners, private treats, and balls were " the order of
the day." The Archbishop treated sixty-four debtors in the Castle with beef,
bread, ale, and coals ; and even the felons shared in the festivity. There was
a partial illumination in the city ; and the soldiers in the barracks fired a
feu dejois, and illuminated their apartments.
On the 26th of August, 1822, the city of York was honoured with a visit
firom his Boyal Highness the Duke of Sussex, brother to the reigning mo-
narch of that day, George lY . The Boyal Duke partook of the hospitalities
of the Corporation at the Mansion House, where a public dinner was given
to him. The freedom of the city was presented to him in a gpld box, accom-
panied by an address expressive of the admiration of that " splendid career
of useful beneficence and spirited patriotism which gave a brilliant lustre to
his exalted birth." The Duke was on this occasion the guest of Robert
Chaloner, Esq., M.P. for the city. In the year 1841 the same noble Duke
paid a second visit to York, for the purpose of holding a grand masonic lodge.
He then sojourned at the York Tavern (now Harker*s Royal Hotel), which
for a time was called the Royal Sussex Hotel.
Since the reign of Charles I., York, which was, as we have seen, in former
times the residence of Emperors and Kings, has not been visited by any
English Sovereign (though it has often been honoured with the presence of
different branches of the Royal family) down to the time of our present Queen.
In September, 1836, her Msyesty, then the Princess Victoria, and her mother,
the Duchess of Kent, visited York, and were received with the most un-
bounded loyalty. The royal party attended the Musical Festival at the
Minster on each of the four days upon which it was held, and during their
stay at York, they were the guests of the Archbishop at Bishopthorpe
Palace. For this attention to these illustrious visitors, the Lord Mayor
(the late Sir John Simpson) received the honour of knighthood fi-om his late
Majesty, William IV., in 1836.
On the 21st of July, 1840, the Archeological Institute of Great Britain
and Ireland held their annual meeting here, under the presidency of Earl
FitzwilHam. The members visited the different objects of interest in the
GENEHAL HISTOBY OF YORKSHIRE. S77
city and neighbourhood, and an exhibition of British antiquities was held
in St. Peter 8 schoolroom in the Minster Yard.
In July, 1848, his Royal Highness the late Duke of Cambridge, accom-
panied by his son Geoige, the present Duke, and other illustrious personages,
attended the annual show of the Royal Agricultural Society at York, and
dined with the company in the large pavilion erected for that purpose on
St. George's Close.
On the 28th of September, 1849, the Queen, the Prince Consort, and the
royal children, stopped at York on their return from Balmoral (their Highland
residence) to London, on which occasion the royal party partook of luncheon
at the Station Hotel ; a loyal address was presented by the Lord Mayor, and
great rejoicings were made on the occasion.
On Friday, the 25th of October, 1850, York was the scene of a magnifi-
cent festival, which must be remembered as one of the most interesting events
in civic history ; whether regarded for the splendour of the assembly, or in
connection with the great event which it was mainly designed to propitiate ;
namely, the great Industrial Exhibition of the products of all nations in the
Crystal Palace, erected in Hyde Park, London, in 1851.
The Lord Mayor of London having given a grand entertainment with the
same patriotic object; and at which his Royal Highness Prince Albert and
the Mayors and chief magistrates of the principal towns of the kingdom were
present ; it was thought but natural that this example should be followed by
the great Corporations of the country. It was, accordingly, agreed at a
meeting of the Mayors and other civic authorities held at Derby, to cany out
the proposition of the Lord Mayor of York, the Right Hon. George H. Sey-
mour, to give a return bajiquet in this cily. A subscription was entered into
for the purpose of enabling the Lord Mayor of York, in conjunction with the
municipalities of the united kingdom, to receive the Prince Consort and the
Lord Mayor of London on a scale of becoming magnificence. The prepara-
tions for this banquet were on the most splendid scale, and, as was well
remarked by the leading journal of the day, " York, the home of the Roman
Emperors, when London was comparatively neglected by the masters of the
ancient world, made a display worthy of the far-famed city, that gave a grave
to Severus and to Constantino Chlorus, and afforded a rallying cry to the
haughty fiEustions which fought for the English throne."
The Guild-Hall was fitted up for the occasion in most superb style ; and
invitations were issued for 248 guests, the fiill extent of the accommodation
afforded by that splendid room. Prince Albert arrived by railway from
London, and was received at the York station by the Lord Mayor of York,
378 GENERAL HI8T0BT OF TOBKSHIBE.
attended by a guard of honour, and was conducted to Lord Wenlock's car-
riage, which was in waiting, and in which the Prince drove to the Mansion
House, attended bj an escort. His Royal Highness ¥ras received at the
Mansion House by a guard of honour of the 2nd, or Queen's Dragoon Guards,
under the command of Gol. Campbell, the band of the regiment playing the
National Anthem. The Prince was conducted to the state room of the
building, where several persons were presented to him. At the Rec^tiony
the Lord Mayor of York appeared in a crimson silk robe, lined with sholrpink
satin ; this being, according to Dugdale, the peculiar robe of the privileged
chief magistrate of this ancient city when appearing before royalty.
Amongst the distinguished company at the banquet were his Royal High-
ness Prince Albert, the Bight Hon. the Lord Mayor of London, the Right
Hon. the Lord Mayor of York, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, the Arch-
bishop of York, Lord John Russell, the Marquisses of Clanricarde and Aber-
com, the Earl of Carlisle, the Earls Granville, FitzwiUiam, and Minto, Lords
Beaumont, Feversham, and Overstone, Sir George Grey, Bart, Sir Charles
Wood, Bart, the Hon. Bielby R. Lawley, the High Sheriff of Yorkshire, Sir
C. Tempest, Bart, Hon. O. Duncombe, General Sir W. Warre, Sir J. V. B.
Johnstone, Bart, the Members of Parliament for the city, the Recorder, the
Sheriff of York, Richard Cobden, Esq., and nearly one hundred Mayors and
heads of boroughs. The general appearance of the fine old Gothic hall was
elegant in the extreme. The great west window was covered with crimson
cloth, in order to secure a better effect to a magnificent ornamental design of
M. Soyer*s, erected in front of the window, and immediately behind the great
circular table, at which sat the chief guests. It consisted of a large emble-
matic vase, twenty feet in height, painted and modelled by Mr. Alfred Adams.
Around the vase was Britannia receiving specimens of industry from the four
quarters of the globe. Round a palm tree, which sprung from the centre,
were the arms of London and York. MedaDian portraits of the Queen and
Prince Albert, surrounded by the shields of the principal cities and towns in
the United Kingdom, formed the body of the vase. Two figures of Ireland
and Scotland formed the handles ; the Prince of Wales's emblem, the neck ;
and the Royal Arms, the apex. Appended were graceful wreaths of flowers,
in which predominated the symbols of the houses of York and Lancaster, the
red and white rose ; and when a brilliant flood of gas-light, aided by power-
ful reflectors, was thrown upon this splendid decoration, the ^fect was very
beautiful. The whole of this part of the hall was profusely and elegantly
adorned with crimson drapery, vases of flowers, evergreens, banners, Ac.
In firont of the principal table, on a raised platform, covered with purple
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 279
doth, was a collection of maces, state swords, and raluable civic insignia,
belonging to the various Corporate bodies; and these ancient maces, which
had been wielded by generations of Mayors, with the velvet sheaths and
gaudy mountings of the gigantic swords of state, formed a picturesque group.
The waUs of the hall were hung with crimson cloth to the height of about ten
feet, as were also the oak pillars. Above were suspended several of the fiill
length portraits from the Mansion House. The banners of the several
Mayors, suspended from the roof arcades, the gallery, &c., were characteristi-
cally splendid ; they bore the arms of the several cities and boroughs whence
they were sent ; the banner of York, worked by the Lady Mayoress, was con-
spicuous to the right of the chair, and the banner of London to the left. At
the east end of the hall was erected a handsome gallery, for an orchestia and
a limited number of ladies to witness the banquet It was ornamented with
crimson drapery, oil paintings, banners, evergreens, flowers, &c. Besides the
oidinarily pendant gas-lights between' the pillars of the arcade on each side,
there were in the body of the hall eight variegated Gothic lanterns ; three
suspended from the roof in the north aisle ; three in the south aisle ; one at
either end of the middle aisle, in the centre of which there was a chandelier,
its pendant stem entwined with the figure of a serpent formed in gas. The
two pillars of the haU nearest to the royal table were wreathed with ever-
greens and flowers, and serpentine gas-lights, and the gallery was lit with
pillars of gas and Gothic lanterns. The tables shone with epergnes,
plateaux, centre pieces heaped up with pines, grapes, and the richest firuit,
with silver plate beneath innumerable lights. Among the embellishments
were various productionfl in patent glass silvering, prepared expressly for the
occasions, as being peculiarly appropriate to a festival to celebrate the ap-
proaching congress of the artistic industry of all nations. These specimens
consisted of gilfc silvered, and bronised figures, bearing large globes of silvered
g^ass. There were also three drinking-cups, one for the Prince, and one for
the Lord Mayors of London and York ; the first in ruby glass, portions of
the riffi and base internally checkered with silver, and on the sides bearing
sunken medallions of her Majesty and his Royal Highness Prince Albert, and
the Royal Arms of England. The other two cups were of the same size and
shape, but instead of being ruby and silver, the colours were emerald and
silver; and on the sides were the private arms of each of the Lord Mayors,
together with the usual heraldic emblazonments of the cities of London and
York respectively. The uncertainty of the Lord Mayor of Dublin*s arrival
prevented a cup being prepared for him.
After grace had been pronounced at the dose, as at the beginning of the
ft80 OEKSRAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE.
banquet, " the loving cup " was passed round after the customary welcome was
deHvered in the name of the Lord Mayor to all his guests, in the usual ciyic
fetshion, by Mr. Harker, the London toast master, and a flourish of trumpets.
The banquet was prepared under the superintendence of M. Soyer ; and
one dish alone on the royal table cost the immense sum of one hundred
guineas. The chief items in this Apician group were turtle and ortolans.
The wines for the royal table were ordered at an unlimited price from Messrs.
Chillingworth and Son, of London, wine merchants to the Queen.
There was a grand concert and ball in the Assembly Room during the
evening, and the whole city was brilliiuitly illuminated. Prince Albert, who
was the guest of the Lord Mayor of York on the night of the banquet, retired
from the company at midnight, and left the Mansion House at eight o^clock
on the following morning. He was accompanied to the Bailway Station by
the Lord Mayor, the Marquis of Abercom, Colonel Grey, Colonel Se3rmour,
and others ; and upon his departure for London he thanked the Lord Mayor
in the most flattering terms for the very satis£Bu;tory arrangements which had
been made for his comfort and accommodation.
On Thursday, the 14th of September, 1854, her Meyesty the Queen, ac«
companied by the Prince Consort, and five of the youthful Princes and
Princesses (including the Prince of Wales), and the ladies and gentlemen of
the royal household, stopped at York en route for Balmoral, and partook of
luncheon at the Station Hotel. The whole of the Railway Station was
entirely cleared of carriages, and the ground between the rails being re-laid
with gravel, gave it a neat and clean appearance. The arrival platform, for
nearly its entire length, was covered with a beautiful tapestry carpet of
splendid colours and design. On this platform were placed tables covered
with suitable drapery, and upon them stood elegant vases of flowers. The
platform entrance of the Hotel was decorated with flowers and evergreens,
and immediately in front of it, in the pit of the Station, stood the band
of the 7th Hussars, while a detachment of the same r^ment took up a
position along the southern side of the pit Lower down, and on both plat-
forms, were stationed 300 of the 3nd West York Light Infiantry, under the
command of Colonel Smyth, M.P. ; the band of that regiment occupying a
position at its head. About one o'clock the royal train entered the Station,
and the royal party were received by the Lord Mayor (G^rge Leeman, Esq.),
the Archbishop of York, the Earl of Carlisle, and the railway directors. The
excitement of the hundreds who thronged the opposite platform attained its
highest piteh when they caught a glimpse of the royal party. The heads of
the gentlemen were uncovered, the soldiers presented the royal salute, while
GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 281
from the whole mass there rose one general, thrilling " huzza/* which, ming-
ling with the National Anthem, struck up at first by the Militia band, and
cau^^t up afterwards bj that of the 7th Hussars, formed one grand and
enthusiastic oblation to Royalty, amid which the Queen, leaning on the arm
of her royal consort, followed by five of her children in a ro\i(, and her suite,
walked along the carpeted path to the hotel, on her way repeatedly acknow-
ledging the loyal plaudits of her subjects. The Lord Mayor walked along
with the royal couple to the hotel, where they were conducted into a hand-
somely furnished room set apart for the purpose of refreshment, and from
which a good view of the Minster, the Museum, St. Mary^s Abbey, &c., is
obtained.
The loom was decorated at one end by a device, consisting of the initials
** v. R.*' and *' P. A.," formed of white artificial flowers, arranged on a crim-
son ground, the whole being s^urrounded with flowers and eyergreens; and over
the door was placed a representation of the Prince of Wales* feathers, also
encircled with dahlias and evergreens, and bearing the motto, <' Ich dien.**
The table was provided by Mr. HoUiday, the proprietor of the hotel, with the
•
most sumptuous viands, wines, grapes, pines, &c. Two or three of the royal
suite partook of refreshments with her Majesty, while the remainder were
accommodated, in-suitable style, in an a4joining apartment. The decorations
in the interior and exterior of the hotel presented a very tasteful appearance.
The interval of half an hour, during which the royal visitors remained in
the hotel, was enlivened by the performance of the two bands. The royal
party then re-appeared on the platform in the same order as that which cha-
racterised their arrival, and proceeded towards the train, which consisted of
nine carriages, the one occupied by her Majesty being in the centre. The bands
struck up once more " God save the Queen** — ^the spectators cheered their
loudest — ^the soldiers again gave the royal salute — and after a few words with
the Archbishop and the Earl of Carlisle, her Migesty, the Prince, and the
royal family, entered the train. The Lord Mayor and several others of the
North-Eastem board of directors then took their places in one of the carriages,
and the train proceeded towards the north amidst the loud plaudits of an
immense number of human beings who had assembled on the city walls.
Tanner-row, Toft-green, and the entire district abutting on the line. The
train was accompanied by electrical telegraph apparatus, so that in case of an
accident, a communication could be made immediately for aid.
Amongst those who accompanied the royal &mily were Sir George Grey,
Bart., the Secretary for the Colonies ; Major-General the Hon. C. Grey ; the
Duchess of Wellington and the Hon. Miss Stanley, maids of honour; Sir
a 0
S8d GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
James Clarke, her Majesty's physician ; the Hon. Col. Phipps» eqneny to
his Royal Highness ; and Miss Hildyard, governess to the royal children.
Prior to the Queen's departure, Mr. Baines, of the Museum, had (he
honour, through the Lord Mayor, of presenting to her Majesty a fine flower
of the Victoria Begia, which was then in full hloom in the grounds of the
Yorkshire Philosophical Society.
The Minster bells, and those of other churches, rung a merry peal in
honour of the royal visit. On her return from Scotland, oh the Idth of the
following month, her Migesty en suite visited the towns of Kingston-upon-
Hull- and Great Grimsby. The royal party arrived in the former town on
the evening of that day — slept at the Station Hotel — went in prooesaion
through the principal streets on the following morning, and departed in the
royal yacht, the Fairy, about eleven o'clock on the same day for Grimsby.
Thence the illustrious visitors proceeded by railway to London, and arrived
at Windsor on the same evening.
CIVIL GOVERNMENT, TITLES, &c.— The civil government of
Yorkshire was anciently lodged in the Earl or Count to whom it was com-
mitted by the King ; and in time it was intrusted to a person duly qualified,
who was called Shire-reve, i.e.. Sheriff or Governor of a shire or county.
Before the 9th Edward U, (1816), this officer was elected by the freeholders ;
but since that time, the appointment has been made by the Sovereign. His
office is to execute the King's writs, return juries, and keep the peace ; and
his jurisdiction is called a Bailiwick, because he is the Bailiff of the Crown.
York has had its own High Sheriff fix>m the 3rd of William the Conqueror,
1069.
The office of Lord Lieutenant appears to have been introduced early in the
reign of Henry VUL. The statutes of Philip and Mary speak of them as
officers well known at that time, though Camden mentions them in the
time of Queen Elizabeth, as extraordinary magistrates, constituted only in
times of difficulty and danger.* The Lord Lieutenant is nominated by the
Lord Chancellor, and is always a justice of the quorum, and to him the
nomination of the Clerk of the Peace belongs. There are three of these
officers for the county of York ; one for each of the three Ridings.
The office of Gustos Botulorum, or Keeper of the rolls and records of the
session of peace, is of considerable antiquity, but has been of late years an-
nexed to that of Lord Lieutenant
• ManniDg and Bray's Surrey, vol. L, p. zxt. introduotioD.
OENEBAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 288
Before the Conquest the Comites, or Earls of Northumberland, were also
Governors of the city and county of York. Morcar was the last Earl of
Northumberland before the Conquest, and he remained so till in the year
1069 he revolted, and William gave this Earldom to Robert Copsi, or
Gomins ; and he being dain, the Conqueror then bestowed it on Cospatric,
who being deprived of it in 1073, he lastly gave the Earldom of Northum-
berland to Waltheof, the son of Siward. Some authors doubt whether the city
and county of York were included in this grant ; and seem rather to consider
that it was only the present county of Northumberland and the bishopric of
Duiham over which he presided. From this era Yorkshire was wholly dis-
charged from the government of these Earls, and was placed under the
jurisdiction of the vice-comites (anciently substitutes to the Earls), or High
Sheri£& of the county.
William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, a great commander, was, by King
Stephen, after the victory over the Scots at the famous Battle of the Stan-
dard, in 1138, made Earl of Yorkshire, or according to some. Earl of York.
This is the first and only mention that we find in histoiy of a tittilar Earl of
Yorkshire. The first and only Earl of York was Otho, Duke of Saxony, son
of Henry Leon, Duke of Bavaria, by Maud, the daughter of Henry U., King
of England. This title was conferred upon Otho by his uncle, Richard I.,
during his sojourn in England in 1100. Whereupon some performed ho-
mage and fealty to him, but others refusing, the King gave him as an
exchange, the county of Poictiers.
In the 9th of Bichard U. (1885), amongst several other creations, Edmund
of Langley, fifth son of Edward m. and Queen Philippa, was made the first
Duke of York. This Prince died at his manor of Langley, and was interred
in the Priory there. Edward Plantagenet, Duke of Albemarle, his eldest
son, after the death of his father succeeded to the Dukedom of York in 1406.
He was slain at the fieunous battle of Agincourt, in 1416, and left no issue.
The third Duke of York was the illustrious Richard Plantagenet, nephew of
the second Duke, and son of Richard, Earl of Cambridge, who was executed
for treason against Henry V. This nobleman having been restored to his
paternal honours by Henry VI., and allowed to succeed to his uncle's inheri-
tance, was one of the most powerful subjects in the kingdom. Being a
descendant of King Edward m., he claimed the crown of England, and
levied war against the King, which lasted for thirty years, and deluged the
land with blood. (See page 151.) He was killed at the battle of Wakefield,
and Margaret caused his head to be cut off and fixed over Micklegate Bar,
d84 GEKERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE.
York.* Richard was a brave man, but deficient in political courage, and
was worthy of a better fate. Edward Plantagenet, the fourth Duke of York,
the eldest son of the last Duke, prosecuted his father^s pretensions, and after
the battle of Towton, he was proclaimed King of England, under the title of
Edward lY., and thus the Dukedom of York became merged in the royal
dignity. This monarch was remarkable for beauty of person, bravery, affii-
hHity, and every popular quality, but in the end he defiled his fiune and
power by efifeminacy and cruelty.
Richard Plante^enet, of Shrewsbury, fifth Duke of York, second son of
Edward IV., was created by his father when vexy young, on May 28th,
1474. This unfortunate Prince is supposed to have been murdered in the
Tower of London, with his elder brother, Edward V., by order of their uncle,
the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard HI., in 1483.
The sixth was Henry Tudor, the second son of King Henry VII., who
was created Duke of York on the 1st of November, 1491 ; and Prince of
Wales, on the death of his brother Arthur, February 18th, 1503 ; and on
the death of his royal father he succeeded to the throne, under the well
known name of Henry VHI., and this dignity again became meiged in
the Crown. From this period it has been customary to confer the Dukedom
of York on the second son of the Sovereign.
The next was Charles Stuart, second son of James I., who, whoa a
child not full four years old, was created Duke of York. He was afterwards
King of Great Britain, and the title again merged in the Crown.
The eighth Duke was James Stuart, the second son of King Charles L,
who was declared Duke of York at his birth, by his royal father, and so
entitled, but not so created till January S7, 1643, by letters patent, bearing
date at Oxford. Afterwards he ascended the throne of Great Britain, and
the title merged in the Crown for the fourth time.
On the 29th of June, 1716, the 2nd of George I., that monarch created
his brother Earnest Augustus, Duke of Brunswick and Lunemburgh, Bishop
of Osnaburgh (a nominal prelacy, to which the Elector of Hanover has the
power of influencing the election alternately with another European power)
Earl of Ulster in Ireland, and Duke of York and Albany in Great Britain;
the honours to descend to the heirs male of his body, but he died without
issue.
Edward Augustus, second son of Frederick Prince of Wales, bom in
March, 1738 — 9, was the tenth Duke of York, his Royal Highness having
• " So York may overlook the town of York." — Skakupeare,
GENERAL HISTORT OF YORKSHTRE. 385
been raised to that dignity by his Msgesty Geoi^e IE., on the 1st of April,
1760. On the dlst of March, 1761, he was appointed Rear Admiral of the
Bine ; and in the coarse of a tour through Europe, he visited Monaco, capital
of the principality of that name, in the territories of Genoa, in Upper Italy,
where he was seized with a malignant fever, of which he died on the 7th of
September, 1767.
Frederick, the eleventh and last Duke of York, was brother of his Majesty
King George IV., and second son of King George in., by whom he was ad-
vance to &e dignities of Duke of the Kingdom of Great Britain, and Earl
of the Kingdom of Ireland, by the titles of Duke of York and of Albany in
Great Britain, and Earl of Ulster in Ireland. His Highness was bom on the
16th of August, 1768 ; and on the d7th of the following February he was elected
Bishop of Osnaburgh. From his earliest age he was destined for the mili-
taiy profession, the study of which formed an essential part of his education.
His first commission in the army was that of Colonel, which was dated Novem-
ber 1st, 1780 ; he was appointed to the command of the 3nd regiment of
Horse-Grenadier Guards on the dSrd of March, 1782 ; Msgor-General on the
30th of November following; and Colonel of the Coldstream Guards, with the
rank of Lieutenant-General, on the d7th of October, 1784. On the d7th of
the following month he was created Duke of York, &c., after these titles had
been extinct for seventeen years — ^from the period of the death of his uncle
Edward, in 1767. On the 29th of September, 1791, he was married at Berlin
to Frederica Charlotta Ulrica Catharine, only child of King Frederick William
of Prussia, by his first consort, Elizabeth Ulrica Christiana, Princess of
Brunswick-WolfenbutteL The royal pair were, on their arrival in England,
re-married at the Queen's house on the 23rd of November following. On the
occasion of his marriage the Duke had voted him by Parliament the sum of
J618,000. per annum ; and the King settled on him £7,000. for his Irish
revenues, which, in addition to the £12,000. per annum he before ei\joyed,
constituted a yearly income of £87,000. At the same time the sum of
£8,000. per annum was voted to the Duchess, in case she should survive.
In 1793 the Duke was called into active military service by being ap-
pointed to the command of an army ordered for Flanders, to form part of the
grand army under the Prince of Saxe Coburg. After the campaign, which
lasted for several months, the Duke proceeded to England to concert with
the British government the plans and measures for the ensuing campaign.
His Royal Highness returned in the month of February, 1794, from England
to Courtrai — ^the British head-quarters, and in a few days the new campaign
had bogun. It is not within the scope or province of this history to follow
Q80 GENERAL BISTORT OF TORKSHIRE.
the Duke through his numerous engagements, suffice it to say that after a
series of successes, and a succession of disappointments, the allies were at
length no longer able to oppose the enemy, and on the 14th of April, 1795,
the different British brigades embarked for England.
In February, 1795, the Duke of York was appointed to the important post of
Commander-in-Chief of the army. In 1799 the Duke again appeared in the
field. He landed at Holland on the 13th of September, and the force under
his coihmand, including 1,000 Russians, amounted to nearly 35,000 men.
An engagement with the French took place on the 8th of October, in which
the enemy was entirely defeated, with a loss exceeding 4,000 killed, and 3,000
taken prisoners. The British lost about 1,600 men. In another engage-
ment, which followed soon after, the Duke was again master of the field of
battle, though the loss amounted to 1,300 British luid 700 Russians. On
the 17th of October a suspension of arms was agreed on, and it was stipulated
that the English and Russians should be allowed to evacuate Holland, on
condition that 8,000 seamen, either Batayian or French, prisoners in Eng-
land, should be giyen up to the French.
In July, 1814, and again at the same period in the following year, both
houses of Parliament passed a vote of thanks to the Duke of York for the
benefits he had bestowed on the nation as Commander-in-Chief in the wars
then concluded. His Royal Highness died on the 5th of January, 1837, and
his remains lay in state in St James's Palace for several days, and were de-
posited in the royal vault at Windsor on the dOth of the same month. On
the decease of the Duke the titie of York became extinct ; but it is probable
that Prince Alfred, the second son of our present Queen, will be created the
next Duke of York.
The following is a list of such places in Yorkshire as have been the capital
residences of Barons by tenure, or by writ of summons ; or have given tide
to Peers created such by letters patent: — *
Aske — B Sir Thomas Dundas, second Baronet hj patent, August 13, 1794. Baron
Dundas, of Aske.
Beverley — M James Douglas, second Duke of Queensbuiy, in Scotland, by patent, May
26, 1708. Extinct on the decease of his son, 1778.
2 E Algernon Percy, second Baron Louvaine of Alnwick, by patent, November 2, 1700.
Bingley— J3 Robert Benson, by patent, July 21, 1713. Extinct on his decease in 1730.
Bolton— B Thomas Orde, by patent, October 20, 1707.
Burlington— ^E Bichard Boyle, second Earl of Cork, by patent, March 20, 1G04. Extinct
in 1735.
* B ■tands for Btfon i V, for Viwoitnt ; i9, for Duke or Duchcu ; Jf, for If arqais ; and E, far Earl.
GENERAL HISTORY OF TORKSHIRE. ^87
Carleton — B John de Bella Aqua, by writ of stiinmons, June 8, tirenly-aeoo&d of Edward
I., 1294.
2 B Henry Boyle, by patent, October 20, 1714. Died in 1725, when the tiUe became
extinct.
3 B Richard Boyle, second Earl of Shannon, by patent, August 6, 1786.
dereland — E Thomas Wentworth, fourth Baron Wentworth, by patent, Febmaiy 5,
1626. Extinct on his death, 1667.
2 D Barbara Yilliers, mistress of Charles II., by patent, August 3, 1670. Extinct
1774.
Cowiek— B John Christopher Burton Downay, fifth Viscount Downe, by patent, May 28,
1796. Baron Bownay, in England.
Craven — E Viscount Craven, of Uffington, Berks., by patent, March 15, 1663.
Danby — E Henry Danyers, first Lord Danyers, by patent^ February 5, 1626. Extinct
on his death, 1643.
2 E Thomas Osborne, first Viscount Latimer, l^ patent^ June 27, 1674.
Boncaster — V James Hay, first Baron Hay, by patent, July 5, 1618. Extinct 1660.
2 E James Fitz Boy (assumed the name of Scot), natural son of Charlea n., by
patent, Februaiy 14, 1663. Beheaded 1685, when the title became forfeited.
3 E Francis Scot» third Earl of Dalkeith, and heir to the last-mentioned EarL Be-
stored by Act of Parliament, March 23» 1743.
Duncombe Park — B Charles Duncombe, by patent, July 14, 1826. Baron Feyersham,
of Duncombe Park.
Escrick — B Thomas Knyyet, by writ of summons, July 4, 1607. Extinct at his death.
2 B Edward Howard, younger son of the Eail of Suffolk, by patent, April 29, 1628w
Baron Howard, of Escrick. Extinct 1714.
Qisbume Park— J3 Thomas Lister, hy patent^ October 26, 1797. Baron Bibblesdale, of
Gisbume Park.
Halifikx— F Sir George Savile, Bart., by patent, January 13, 1668. E July 16, 1679.
M August 22, 1682. Extinct 1700.
2 B Charles Montague, Vy patent, December 4, 1700. E October 14, 1714. Extinct
1772.
HBiewood—B Edwin lAsceUes, by patent^ July 9, 1790. Extinct on his death in 1795.
2 B Edward I^scelles, by patent, June 18, 1796. E September 7, 1812.
Holdemess — 2 E Odo, Earl of Champagne. Temp. William I.
2 E John Bamsay, first Viscount Haddington, by patent, January 22, 1621. Extinot
on his death, 1625.
3 E Rupert, Count Palatine, of the Bhine, by patent, January 24, 1644. Extinct on
his death, 1682.
4 E Conyers D'Arcy, second Baron IVAroy, by patent, December 5, 1682. Extinet
1778.
Holme-in-Spalding-Moor— B Marmaduke Langdale, by potent, Febmaiy 4, 1658. Ex-
tinct 1777.
Kingston-upon-Hull— -£ Bobert Pierrepont, first Viscount Newark, by patent, July 25,
1628. Extinct 1778.
Kiyeton— B Sir Thomas Osborne, by patent, August 15, 1673.
Leeds— D Thomas Osborne, first Marquis of Cannarthen, by patent, May 4, 1694.
S88 GENERAL HI8T0BY OF Y0BK8HIBE.
Lanesborongh— rB Richard Boyle, seoond Earl of Cork, by patent, Norember 4, 166i.
Baron Clifford, of Lanesborough. Extinct 1785.
Leppington->-J3 Robert Carey, by patent, February 0, 1662. Baron Carey, of Lepping-
ton. Extinct 1661.
Long Loftns— J9 Charles Tottenham LoftiiB, first Marquis of Ely, in Ireland, hj patent,
January 19, 1801.
Malton— JB Thomas Wentworth, by patent, May 28, 1728. E by patent, November 19,
1784. Extinct 1782.
Markenfield—B Fletcher Norton, by patent, April 9, 1782.
Middleham — B Ribald, brother to Alan, second Earl of Brittany, by tenure. Temp.
William I.
Mulgrave— B Constantino John Phipps, second Baron MulgraTO in Ireland, hj patent,
June 16, 1790. His brother created E by patent, September 7, 1812.
Normanby — V Henry Phipps, third Baron Mulgrave, by patent, September 7, 1812.
Northallerton — V George Augustas, Prince Electoral of Hanover, afterwards George n.,
by patent, November 9, 1706. Merged in the Crown on his accession.
Fontefraot — B Ilbert de Lacy, by tenure. Temp. WiUiam I.
2 B John Savile, by patent, July 21, 1682. Baron Savile, of Pontefract Extinct
1671.
8 B George Fitz Roy, natural son of Charles n., hy patent, October 1, 1674. Extinct
on his death, 1716.
4 E Thomas Fermor, second Baron Lempster, by patent, December 27, 1721.
Bavensworth — B Bardolph, Baron Htzhugh, by tenure. Temp. William L
Bawdon — B Honourable Fhuids Rawdon, by patent, March 6, 1788. E by patent, De-
cember 7, 1816.
Richmond — E Alan Fergaunt, Earl of Brittany, created by William I. for his services at
the battle of Hastings. Extinct 1586.
2 D Ludovick Stuart, second Duke of Lennox, by patent, May 17, 1628. Extinct on
his death, 1624.
8 D James Stuart, second Earl of March, hy patent, August 8, 1641. Extinct 1672.
4 D Charles Lennox, natural son of Charles n., by potent, August 9, 1675.
Ripon— B James Doug^, second Duke of Queensbniy, in Scotland, hy patent. May 26,
1708. Extinct 1778.
Ross — B Peter de Roos, by tenure. Temp. Henry L
Rotherfleld— £ Robert de Grey, younger son of Henry I., by tenure.
Sandbeck — V James Saunderson, first Baron Saunderson, by patent, 1716. E 1720.
Extinet on his decease, 1728.
Scarborough— £ Richard Lumley, first Viscount Lumley, by potent, ApxH 16, 1690.
Setrington — B Charles Lennox, natural son of Charles n., by patent, August 9, 1675.
Sheffield— B John Baker Hohroyd, first Baron Sheffield, by patent, July 29, 1802.
Stittenham — B Sir John Leveson Gower, fifth Baronet, by patent, March 16, 1708.
Baron Gower, of Stittenham.
Skelton — B Robert Bruce, second Earl of Elgin, in Scotland, by patent, March 18, 1664.
Extinct at his death.
Tadcaster— F Henry O'Bxyen, Earl of Thomond, in Ireland, by patent, October 19,
1714. Extinct on his death, in 1741 .
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 289
2 B WiUiarn O'Bryen, by patent, July 3, 1826.
Towton— B Sir Edward Hawke, by patent, May 20, 1776, Baron Hawke, of Towton.
Waith— B Thomas Wentworth, by patent, November 19, 1734. Extinct 1782.
Wakefield — E Bobert Eer, son of John, first Dnke of Roxbuigh, in Scotland, by patent,
May 24, 1772. Extinct 1804.
Wentworth Wood House — B Sir Thomas Wentworth, second Baronet by patent, July
22, 1628. V by patent, December 10, 1628. Extinct 1695.
Whamdiffe — B James Archibald Stuart Wortley Mackenzie, by patent, July 12, 1826.
Whorlton — B Thomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scotland, by patent, August 1, 1641.
Wortley— J? Mary, daughter of Edward Wortley Montague, by patent, April 3, 1761.
Baroness Mount Stuart, of Wortley.
TanuQ — B Sir Thomas Bellasyse, sdcond Baronet, by patent, May 25, 1627. Baron
Fauconbei^, of Yarum. Extinct 1815.
®]^t Cilg ai gnrk.
The origin of the fine old city of Eboracum, or York — in point of dignity
the second city in the empire — and the etymology of its name, are equally
involyed in the obscurity of upwards of twelve centuries. In Nennius' cata-
logue it is called Caer,* or Kaer Ebratu:, or the City of Ebraucus, and is the
first of that list of cities. Geoffrey of Monmouth, Bishop of St. Asaph, a
chronicler of the 12th centuiy, tells us that it was founded by Ebraucus, the
son of Mempricius, a British King, the third from Brute, in the year of the
world 2988, about the time when David reigned in Judea, and Gad, Nathan,
and Asaph prophesied in Israel. It is also affirmed, chiefly on the same au-
thority, that Ebraucus also built Aclud, supposed by some to be Aldborough,
and by others Carlisle, as well as Mount Agnea, the capital of Scotiand ; that
he reigned sixty years, and had twenty wives, by whom he had twenty sons
and thirty daughters ; and that he died at York, and was buried in a temple
dedicated to the goddess Diana, which he had erected on the spot where now
stands the ancient church of St. Helen, in St Helen's Square.f
Though this story of King Ebraucus, his cities, his children, and his wives,
has been repeated by several antiquarians, yet the whole account is littie re-
garded at the present day, and is generally believed to have long since passed
• Nennius, Abbot of Bangor, wrote a Histoxy of the Britons in aj>. 620, which was
published by Gale. Caer or Kaer is a British word, signifying seat or city.
f Gent says that tradition assures us that the llinster was built on the site of this
temple.
2 P
290 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF TOBK.
into the long catalogue of exploded errors, to which the ignorance or the
credulity of every age makes some addition. According to Humphrey Llwyd,
the learned Welsh antiquary, York is identified with the city termed hy the
Britons Ccier-Effroc ; and among the towns of the Brigantes mentioned hy
Ptolemy with the Ehoracum of the Romans. Another writer coi\jecture8
that a colony of Gauls, which were driven hy the Romans from Spain and
Portugal, had seated themselves here in Mid-England, and made their chief
station at York, to which they gave the name of Ehoracum, from Ehora, a
town in Portugal, or Ebura, in Andalusia.* The plain fAct appears to have
been, that the locality where York now stands, was called by the ancient
Britons Kaer, and that in all probability it was as thickly inhabited as any
other part of the island. And with respect to its general appearance, we
suppose that it resembled the other fortresses or stations of the numerous
tribes that inhabited the country. Caesar tells us in his Comtnentaries, that
when he came to Britain, the builders knew nothing of building with stone,
but called that a town which had a thick entangled wood, defended with a
ditch and bank about it.
The Romans called this city Ehoracum or Eburacum, but its present ap-
pellation, York, has given rise to much discussion, and a variety of coi^ecture
prevails upon the subject. Leland and Camden are of opinion that the river
Ouse was anciently called UrCf Eure, or Youre (but this point is not clearly
established), and that the Saxons added the termination wic. According
to the author of "Restitution of Decayed Intelligence in Antiquities, "f
the city of York was called Caer-Efroc by the ancient Britons, but its
appellation was changed by the Saxons to Ever-wyk, from the words ever or
eber a vnld boar, and wye a place of refuge or retreat. Its present name, he
says, is obviously derived from Everwic, which by vulgar abbreviation became
Voric and lastiy York. If it could be proved that the river had formerly
retained the name of Eure as low as the city, it would appear almost un-
questionable that the name was derived from Eurewic, a place of retreat or
strength on the Eure; and the same might in popular pronunciation be
readily corrupted to that of York. Worsae, the learned author of "The
Danes and Northmen in Britain," gives the following derivation of the name
York : — " The Briton called York, Caer Eabhroig or Eabhroic ; the Anglo-
Saxons, Eoforwic ; and the Danes, Jorvik ; whence it is plain that the form
York now in use is derived."
In Domesday Book this city is called, Civitas Eborum, and Eurwk.
* Sir Thomas Widdriogton's MSS. f Page UO.
HI8T0BT OF THE CITT OF YORK. 291
Alcium, a celebrated scholar in his time, and a native of York, writing near
a thousand years ago, says, that the city was built by the Romans ; and he
has left his testinony in Latin verse, of which the following is a translation ;
This city, first, by Roman hand was form'd,
With lofty towers and high built walls adom'd ;
It gave their leaders a secure repose,
fiononr to th' empire, terror to their foes.
Drake is of opinion that York was founded by the Romans. " It is probable
to me,'* writes he, " that this city was first planned and fortified by Agricola,
about A.D. 80, whose conquests in the island stretched beyond York ; and
that that General built here a fortress to guard the frontiers after his return."
The early importance of the city must unquestionably be attributed to the
Romans, who made it the metropolis of their empire in Britain. The builders
of the city were probably the Roman soldiers themselves, who were accom-
plished masons, being trained to use the pick-axe, spade, and trowel, as well
as military arms. They called this city Civitas Brigantium, (the title of
eivUas applied to Rome itself), as well as Eboracum or Eburacum.
The resemblance which York bore to the form of ancient Rome is rather
remarkable. Fabius's plan of Rome represents it in the form of a bow, of
which the Tiber was the string, as the Ouse may be said to be the bow-string
of York. Like Rome, Eboracum, although entirely a military colony, seems
to have been governed both by military and municipal laws, for the Em-
perors themselves sometimes sat in person in the Prsetorium, and firom this
chief tribunal gave laws to the whole empire. York, therefore, may be re-
garded as the picture of Rome in miniature, and as possessing a just claim to
the tides of '* Brittanici Orbis, Roma Altera, Palatium OurisB, and Preotorium
Cssaris," with which it is dignified by Alcuin.*
"From the circumstance of the Ebor, now called the Ouse, running directly
through the city," says AUen, " York was more capable of augmenting its
commercial concerns than Isurium, which was situated near the river Ure ;
and also of fumbhing the Romans, who were peculiarly partial to their hot
and cold baths, with an ample supply of water. Here then, doubtless, was
the cause of preference ; and hence it might receive a name indicative of its
situation ; for although Urica and York are not exactly the same, if we recol-
lect the Romans were succeeded by the Saxons, the difference may be purely
dialectic.**!
When the Emperor Hadrian came into this island in a.d. 124, he took up
* Alcuin Ap. Leland Coll. 0. f Hist. Yorks., Book iiL, p. 4.
292 HISTOBY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
his station at York. The Emperor Seyenis lived and held his court in the
Prsetorium Palace of this city for more thmi three years, while his son was
in the north superintending the completion of the great wall ; and he died
here on the 5th of Fehruarj, 211. (See page 57.) A rescript of law is still
preserved in the Roman code, issued hj this Emperor from Eboracum, on
the drd of the Nones of May, in the Consulate of Fustinus and Rufiis, cor-
responding to the year 211, relating to the recovery of the "right of possession
of servants or slaves.
Drake tells us that at that period this city shone forth with meridian
splendour; and that the concourse of tributary Kings, of foreign ambassa-
dors, and Roman nobles, which crowded the courts of the Sovereigns of the
world when the Roman empire was in its prime, elevated Eboracum to the
height of sublunary grandeur.
There was a temple dedicated to Bellona, the goddess. of war, erected at
York before the time of Severus ; and after that monarch returned from his
northern conquest, and sought a temple to sacrifice to the Gods who had
crowned him with success, he was led by an ignorant soothsayer to it, and
this was looked upon as a presage to his death. This temple is supposed
to have stood without Bootham Bar, near the ruins of St. Mary's Abb^.
Before the temple stood a small column, called the martial pillar, whence
a spear was thrown when war was declared against an enemy. It may
here be observed that temples dedicated to Bellona, who was the sister of
Mars, were not allowed to be erected, except in Rome or in the principal
cities of the Empire.
In the next century Carausius caused himself to be proclaimed Emperor
at York. Constantius or Constantine Chlorus, another Roman Emperor,
held his court for some time in the imperial palace at York, and died
there in July, a.d. 306. His son and successor, Constantine the Great,
has been erroneously believed by many writers to have been bom at York.
The precise place of the birth of Constantine is described by an ancient
writer to be '*Patema in Eboracensi civitate." Hence probably the tra-
dition that the first Christian Emperor was a native of this city. However
that may have been, it is quite certain that he received the commands
of his dying father at York, and that immediately after the death of Con-
stantius, he was proclaimed Emperor by the army, and his inauguration
took place there. (See page 60.) This ancient residence of the " Lords of
the Universe" began to decline after the departure of Constantine, and
in the reign of Theodosius the Younger, Rome and York both declined
together.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 293
BoMAK Remains. — ^Of the splendour of the city daring its occupation hy
the Bomans, many yestiges have been discovered, and various remains of
Boman architecture have been found ; though, considering the long residence
of that people here, these antiquities are less numerous than might have been
supposed, if we did not, as Baines says, " take into consideration that fire,
sword, ignorance, and superstition, have all contributed their assistance to
the devouring hand of time, to erase the monuments which the imperial
power had served to erect." " It may seem strange," continues the same
writer, in his Gazetteer of Yorkshire, published in 1823, ** that we have not
to show any temples, amphitheatres, or palaces, whose edifices must once
have made Eboracum shine with distinguished lustre ; but the wonder will
cease when in the following pages we trace such horrid destruction of every-
thing both sacred and profane. To our Christian ancestors we owe much of
this destruction ; their holy zeal rendered them anxious to eradicate every
vestige of paganism; and the Boman altars and votive monuments were
naturally enough consigned to destruction under their Gothic hands."
Mr. Drake, in the appendix to his Eboracum, gives a catalogue of the coins,
as well as many other Boman antiquities, found in York. Dr. Langwith
sent Drake a catalogue of Boman coins from Augustus down to Gratianus,
124 different sorts, all found in York. They fure chiefly of the Lower Em-
pire; and amongst them Geta^s are the most common of any. A great
quantify of signets, fibula, urns, and sarcophagi have been dug up and re-
covered here through a period of fifteen centuries. Camden, Burton, Drake,
Thoresby, and other antiquaries, have described some of the most remarkable
of them.
Almost all the memorials of the Bomans, which have presented themselves
in this city, have been found by digging ; few of them have been discovered
above ground ; so that it may be justly said that modem York stands upon
ancient Eboracum.
A part of a tower and wall are yet standing in York, which are undoubt-
edly of Boman erection. This building is now known as the Multangular
Tower, and the wall which leads from it towards Bootham Bar. This tower
and wall will be fully described at a subsequent page of this volume.
When digging in the north aisle of the church of St Cuthbert, and also
on the north side of the churchyard, there have often been found Boman tiles
and several fragments of sepulchral antiquities. In some parts have also
been discovered, at the depth of five feet, quantities of ashes and charcoal,
intermixed with human bones and broken urns, paterae, &c. On the sepul-
chral tiles, which have been dug up here, was stamped Leo IX. Hisp. The
d94 HISTORY OF TBE CITY OF YOBK.
foundations of a very strong wall Irave likewise been traced in this churchyard,
in the direction from S.S.E. to N.N.W. This wall appears to be remains of
a Eoman or some very ancient building.
Nearly two centuries ago a theca or repository for urns of a Roman family
was dug up here, but it was so little regarded at York, that in time it found
its way to Hull, where it served as a trough for watering horses at a public
inn ! The inscription was partly obliterated, but it amounted to this — ^That
Marcus Verecundus Diogenes, a native of Berri, in Grascoigny, and a sevir
or magistrate of the Roman colony at York, died there ; who, while living,
made this monument for himself. The size of the sepulchral monument was
yery large, being six feet long and three feet deep, and the stone was of a mill-
stone grit In digging the foundation of a house on Bishop-hill the Elder, in
1688, a small but elegant altar, with figures in basso relievo of sacrificing
instruments, &c., on the side, was found, which was presented to Charles I.,
when at York, by Sir Ferdinando Fairfiax. The altar bears a heathen in-
scription, which may be thus translated. — " To the great and mighty Jupiter,
and to all gods and goddesses, household and peculiar, PubUm AeUus Mar-
cianusy prefect of cohurt, for the preservation of his own health and that of
his family, dedicated this altar to the great preserver." The King ordered
this interesting relic to be conveyed to the Manor House, where it remained
some time; but Sur Thomas Widdrington, who resided at Lendal, after-
wards had it in his possession; and it was lastiy seen at the house of
Lord Thomas Fairfax, in York, where it remained till the desertion of the
house by hi^ son-in-law, the Duke of Buckingham, since which time no
trace of it can be discovered. This is the earliest recorded discovery of a
Roman altar at York.
In 1688 a very curious sepulchral monument was dug up in Trinity-
Gardens, near Micklegate. The stone, which is almost six feet high and two
feet broad and angular in form at the top, has carved upon it the figure of a
Roman Signifer or Standard-bearer, standing in an arched recess, having in
his right hand the Signum or Standard of a cohort, and in his left, probably,
the vessel used in measuring the com, which was a part of Roman soldiers*
pay. Near the bottom is the following inscription :-^
L'DVCCIVS
L*V0LTFRVFFI
NVB'VIEN
SIGNIF'LEG'VIIII
AN'XXIIX
H'S'E
H18T0BY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 395
which Horsley reads thus: Lucius Duccius Lucii Voltima (Tribu) fiilius
Ruffinus Viennensis signifer Legionis nonee annonim viginti octo, hie situs
est. i. e. Lucius Diiccius Ruffinus, son of Lucius, of the Voltinian tribe, of
Vienna, standard-bearer of the Ninth Legion, aged twenty-eight, is placed
(buried) here.
This remarkable relic was saved by Bryan Fairfax, Esq., from demolition
by the workmen who had broken it in the middle, and were about to make
use of it in a stone-wall which they were erecting. It was afterwards re-
moved to Ribstone Hall, near Wetherby, by Sir Henry Goodrick, who first
placed it in his own garden, and subsequently removed it to a more appro-
priate situation in the chapel yard. It is now in the Museum of the York-
shire Philosophical Society, having been presented by J. Dent, Esq., of
Ribstone.
We are told by Mr. Drake that on the removal of a house in Friars* Gar>
dens, near Toft Green, in the month of August, 1770, part of the foundation
of a temple of Roman brick-work was found about two feet beneath the
snr&ce of the earth. It was so firmly cemented by the mortar peculiar to
Roman edifices, as to resist the stroke of a pick-axe, and its form was semi-
circular ; the other part being, as he supposed, under an adjoining dwelling.
Upon or near to this foundation was discovered a dedicatory tablet of grit
stone, three feet long, two feet one inch broad, and seven inches thick, bearing
the following inscription, and some curious emblematic carved work in very
fine preservation : —
DEO-SANCTO
SERAPI
TEMPLVIC-ASO
LO'FECIT
GL'HIERONY
MIAKVS'LEO
LEO'VI'VIO.
This inscription denotes that " Claudius Hieronymianus, Legate or Lieu-
tenant of the Sixth Legion Victorious, had erected from the foundations a
temple to the Holy God Serapis.'i' There is no doubt that this tablet had
been fixed in the front of that temple, and it was long supposed that the
• Serapis was a great Egyptian deity, known by the three names of Osiris, Apis, and
Serapis. Memphis, Alexandria, Canopns, and Athens, had each a magnificent temple
dedicated to this idol, and his worship was introduced also at Bome, 1^ the Emperor
Antoninus Pins, aj). 146.; thence no doubt it had been brought into this oountiy by
396 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
temple itself stood on the spot where the foundations and the tahlet were
found — ^namelj, the end of Tanner-row, near the spot now occupied hj the
entrance to the North Eastern Railway Station. Nothing more was dis-
covered to further develope the site of the Temple of Serapis till the year
1887, when the excavations were commenced for the York and North Mid-
land Railway (now called the North Eastern) Station. At the h^inning
of these excavations Mr. Hargrove, the author of the History of York, feeling
anxious to watch and keep an account of every discovery of the remains of
other times, attended near the workmen early and late, and after having
secured many valuable Roman relics, had the satisfaction to find and pre-
serve a beautiful tesselated pavement, in the centre of which was the repre-
sentation of a singular figure, the fore part of which pourtrayed the bead,
body, and forelegs of an ox, the hind part representing the twisted tail of a
large fish."^ This interesting discovery at once removed every doubt respecting
the temple of Serapis. The blending of the worship of two gods in one
temple was no uncommon occurrence amongst the idolatrous nations, and
here was evidently a blending of two heathen deities — Serapis, the God of
Agriculture, and Neptune, the God of the Sea — the inference being exhibited
in the position of each representation.
The remains of foundations of an oblong room, in which this pavement
was found, were evident; the breadth of which was twelve feet, but the length
could not be so clearly ascertained. At the north end was a large raised
stone, forming a sort of table or altar, which was preserved. A passage at
the south-west side of the room evidently led to the public baths behind.
In an account of similar temples at Thebes, and other places, it is stated that
there is always observable a small oblong room, which was the adytum or
sanctuary, i. e., the apartment which contained the figure of the deity, and
in which the priests performed those sacrifices and other rites, which were
not meant for the public gaze. Its dimensions were very insignificant, but
it was always surrounded by stupendous erections of various kinds, col-
onnades, courts, &c., with apartments for the abode of the priests.
The room and pavement of the temple of Serapis were found opposite
the Bomans, and thus had occasioned the erection of a temple sacred to it in the then
splendid city of Eboracnm. Mr. Pegge refers the inscription on this tablet to the time
of Hadrian or earlier; and adds that several coins of Nerva, Trajan, and Hadrian, were
found along with it This cnrions memorial of Boman idolatiy, is now in the Yorkshire
Museum.
« A plate of this curious pavement, from a drawing by Mr. Wm. Wallace Hatgrove,
has been published.
HISTOBT OF THB CITT OF YOBK. 397
to Barker Lane, which is some distance up the street of Tanner Row, and
nearly opposite to Trinity Church ; and the remains of Roman foundations
which Mr. Hargroye afterwards discoyered and measured, as well as sub-
sequent discoyeries nearer to Micklegate Bar, proye beyond a doubt that the
temple had been yery eztensiye ; occupying the higher part of the ground
where Tanner Row had been built in subsequent times, and ranging with its
outbuildings from the bar to the place where the payement aboye-described
was found. It is possible that the fragment found in 1770 may haye been a
part of the temple of Serapis, but it was a yery tnjQing portion comparatiyely
speaking.
In 1814 a Roman tesselated payement was found close to the rampart
near Micklegate Bar, and another elegant floor of this beautiful Mosaic work
was found in 1853, towards the upper part of Tanner Row.* Mr. Hargroye
thinks it highly probable that these payements had been connected with the
temple or its appendages, for the remains of the public baths which were
afterwards found were between the temple and the Bar waUs.-|-
In escayating for a cellar in Ousegate, not far from what Mr. Wellbeloyed
Sttj^poaes to be the south-east angle of the wall of ancient Eboracum, a frag«
ment of a dedicatory Roman tablet was found, and is now in the Museum.
The edifice to which it was affixed appears to haye been dedicated to the
deities of Augustus, and to a goddess whose name or title is lost. Of the
name of the person who erected the temple, the termination SIVS only
remains.
NyMIMIB AyO ET ]>£▲£ loy...
SiyS AEDEM FBO PASTE D...
At the same time, and in the same place, was discoyered a fragment of a
tablet, which recorded the restoration of a temple, dedicated to Hercules,
probably by one Titus Perpetuus. The remains of the inscription
HERCyXi* • • .
TTEBPET...
AETEB..
SByB..
In the year 1716 a curious antique busty fiye inches high by four in
• These two payemeiits will be deaeribed at a sabgequent page.
f The paEfement reaeaed 1^ Mr. Hargrove-^and to whose kindneaa we are indebted
for the fongoiiig deeeiiptaon of it— 4ogether with the other aatiqae remains with whieh
his labour and attention to the aboye-mentioned exeayationa have been repaid ; as well
d Q
998 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF TORK.
breadth, representing the head of a beautiful female, was found in digging a
cellar near the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Gale, the antiquary, finding it
bore the marks of Roman origin, and knowing that the Bomans had not any
goddess in their system of theology, supposed it had been designed to represent
the head of Lucretia, the Roman matron, whose wrongs expelled the Tarquins.
In Clifton fields, without Bootham Bar, several sarcopha§^, or stone tombs,
and a great quantity of urns of different colours and sizes, have been found.
Amongst them were two coffins, dug up in March, 1813, each containing a
skeleton entire, with the teeth — ^the most imperishable part of man when
dead, and the most liable to decay when living — completely perfect. Theee
two last^mentioned tombs or coffins, which are unusually large, measuring
seven feet four inches in length, two feet three inches in breadth, and one foot
ten inches in depth, and of thick light-coloured grit, are now in the north
aisle of the choir of the Cathedral. Each coffin is covered with a lid, curi-
ously made in the form of the roof of a modem dwelling house.'^ The field
in which they were discovered is nearly opposite to Burton Stone, at Clifton,
in which neighbourhood the principal burial-place of the Romans, who for-
merly inhabited this cit^, was situated. Campus Martus, anciently, mthout
the cit^ of Rome, was the place where the funersl piles were lighted to con-
sume the deceased Romans, and the presumption is that Clifton fields formed
the Campus Martus of Eboracum. In Drake's Antiquities, Bootham Bar is
mentioned as being the gate which led to some grand depository of their dead
near CHfton village.
The various sepulchral remains have principally been found near Mickle-
gate and Bootham Bars, in the neighbourhood of which respectively ran the
as a large oollection of other objects of interest which he had during twenty preceding
years collected in York, have been transferred to the Musenm of the Yorkshire Philo-
sophical Society, of which he is a member. A minute description of his whole oolleotion
by himself would be interesting.
• Sepulchral chests made of stone are much more rare in Boman bnrial-plaoes tliflii
those £6rmed of tiles. They are generally veiy massive, formed out of a soUd stone, and
covered with a roof-shaped or flat lid. Massive chests or sarcophagi of this description
appear, ttom their forms and inscriptions, to have stood above ground, and they present
a very peculiar mode of sepulture. After the body had been laid, apparently in ftill
dress, on its back at the bottom of the sarcophagus, liquid lime was poured in until the
whole of the body was covered, except the face. This becoming hard has preserved to
a certain degree an impression of the form of the body, of which the skeleton is often
found entire. Several fine examples of this mode of sepulture may be seen in the
grounds and Museum of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. It is remarkable that the
Boman tombs with interments of this description found at York, generally contained the
remains of ladies.
HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 899
old Roman roads to Calcarea (Tadcaster) and Isurinm (Aldborough). " These
were probably therefore the principal cemeteries of Eboracum," writes the
editor of York and its Vi4dnity, ** the Romans •invariably choosing the way-
side of the principal thoroughfares^ beyond the walls of their cities, for the
burial of their dead."
About the year 1784 a small figure of a penats, or household god (Saturn),
was found by a person digging for a cellar in Walmgate ; the composition of
which the image is formed is a mixture of metal, and the workmanship ex-
hibits all the elegance of a Roman mould.
About the year 1740 two very curious Roman urns were dug up near the
Mount without Micklegate Bar. One of them was made of glass, and being
by accident broken in pieces, the inside of it was found to be coated with a
silver-coloured substance, termed by philosophers, the eleetmm of the ancients.
The other urn was of lead, and was sold by the workmen to an ignorant
plumber, who immediately beat it together and melted it down. A pedestal
of grit was also found in the same year, at no great distance from Micklegate
Bar. It measured two feet high by ten inches in breadth, and bore the fol-
lowing Roman inscription : —
BRITANKL£
SANCTuE
PNIKOMEDES
AUOO. N. N.
LIBEBT08.
A Roman sepulchre of singular form was found in 1768, by some labourers
who were preparing a piece of ground for a garden, near the dty walls, west
of the same bar. It was formed of Roman tiles, built up in the form of a
roof, and making a triangle with the ground below. On the top was a
covering of semiciroular tiles, of small diameter, so close as to prevent the
least particle of earth from falling into the cavily, and each end of the
dormitory was closed with a tile, on which was inscribed Leo. IX. His., being
doubtless the burying-place of a soldier of the Legio nana Hupanica.
A sculptured tablet, representing the sacrifice and mysteries of Mithras,
was found in 1747, in digging for a cellar in a house in Micklegate, opposite
St Martin's Ghureh. Mithras is the Greek form of the Persian word signi-
fying the Sun, the chief object of worship among the Persians and otiier
ancient eastern nations. This relio of idolatry is now in the entrance hall
of the Museum.
800 BISTORT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
In 1770, as some workmen were digging a drain finom the north east comer
of Davygate, to the comer of Lendal, they discovered the foundation of three
walls or buttresses, about Bexen feet below the surface of the ground. They
were from nine feet and a half to eleven feet and a half broad, about three
feet distant from each other, and were composed of pebbles strongly cemented,
the open space between the walls being securely filled with day. Gough
says, they were supposed to have been built by the Romans, to prevent the
Ouse from overflowing the city.
In the same year were found in a gravel pit on the banks of the Ouse, about
one mile and a half east of the city, a number of ancient remains, consisting
of fragments of Roman earthenware and patere (goblets), and within the com-
pass of about Mtj yards were likewise discovered a perfect urn with its cover,
and many more pieces of patersB and urns, some very laige vessels, part of an
urn of crystal, an iron flesh fork, &c. At the same time and place a strange
discovery was made, of which Mr. Gough gives us the particulars. A stiatum
of oyster shells appeared to have been laid about two feet, in s<mie parts
three feet, and in others nearly Ave feet, bdow the sur&ce, and above them
was a sort of rich black earth, like soot mixed with oil, among which were
found pieces of burnt wood. Upon this singular substance were scattered
great numbers of bones of cattle, chiefly heads and ribs. Many heads of
beasts were laid together in one part ; and in several other parts were bones
mixed with earth and fragments of earthen vessels. Near to these, about
three feet below the present surface, the earth was discoloured and greasy,
as though it had been soaked with blood to the depth of two feet. In the
following year, 1771, a similar discovery was made in another gravel pit not
far from the former, and the particulars of which are also given by Mr.
Gough. " Within this pit, between layers of earth and gravel," writes he,
" was another of black earth intermixed with bumt wood, and imder it a
layer of oyster shells. In the middle of the pit was a hillock of the same
strata, mixed with fragments of urns, some inscribed Ofrom, Caiva^ &o.
Some of the larger ones and of the patens were adorned with vine and ivy
branches, &c" In this pit were also found a number of antique remains,
amongst which were a flesh fork, a brass needle, various fragments of urns,
a large iron bolt, a whole patera with ears, some others broken, and a small
urn of coarse red clay with a cover of blueish clay. These remains favour
the opinion that a Roman temple had stood in that locality, and that these
were the remains of the saciifloes oflered in the dark ages of pagan idolatry.
Drake mentions a Roman tablet which was discovered in digging a oellar
HISTOBT OF THE CITY OF YORK. 801
in " Oonyng Street," in the line of the Roman wall. It is now in tiie
Museum, and is inscribed: —
OE^^o LOCI
FELICITEB
that is, ''To the Genius of the place, happQj/' or " prosperoualj.** The
QeniuB was the protecting spirit of a person or a place. The pkce in this
instance was most probaUj that occupied by Eboracum ; and the inscription
is a short wish or prayer that the genius would be propitious to Eboracum.
Mr. Thoresby, the Leeds antiquary, was living when this monument was
found, and in an account of it which he sent to the Boyal Sodiely he says —
after describing it and its inscription, " If the name (of the genius) had been
added, it would have gratified the curiosity of some of our necteric antiquaries.
But they must yet acquiesce, for aught I know, in their old Dvi, who b said
to be the tutelar deity of the city of the Brigantes. The author of this
TOtive monument," he continues, " seems to have had the same superstitious
veneration for the gemm of York, as those at Home had for theirs, whose
name they were prohibited to mention or enquire after. Hence it is that
upon their coins the name of this deity is never expressed but in a mere
popular manner, by (hnius PJl,, or Pop. Bom"
A massive brass flagon was also turned up by the plough, in a field near
York, weighing seventeen pounds four and a half ounces, and calculated to
contain five modem pints. This vessel stood on three legs, and the top of
the lid exhibited a head or face, apparently connected with the heathen
mythology.
A small Roman votive altar of stone, six inches high, and six inches in
breadtii at the base, bearing a Roman inscription, somewhat impaired by
time, but from which it appears that this relic was dedicated by a soldier of
the Sixth Legion to the mother of the Emperor Antonius Pius, vras found in
Micklegate by the workmen, while digging a drain in the middle of the street.
Several other Roman remains were discovered with this altar, about eight or
ten feet below the surface ; and the workmen met with two or three firm pave-
ments of pebbles, one below another, beneath which were several fragments
of beautiful red glazed patereB, adorned with figures of gods, birds, and vines,
and one of them inscribed ianvf; there were also several small altars and an
earthen lamp, with some Roman coins of Constantine the Great.
The following remains have been found in the present century, and for
ages yet to come the inexhaustible mines of antiquarian wealth on which the
80d HI8T0BT OF THE ClTT OF TOBK.
cily of York stands, will doubtless yield their contributions to the cabinets of
the curious. In June, 1802, the workmen, while digging for the foundations
of the new gaol, near the site of the Old Baile Hill, found about 100 silver
pennies of William the Devastator, in good preservation, though it is probable
that they had lain in the ground nearly eight centuries. According to LeLind,
a Castle anciently stood on this site. The most venerable sepulchral remains
which have been presented to the antiquaiy for many years, were discovered
in September, 1804, by the workmen while digging a large drain in the Min-
ster Yard, from south to west of the Cathedral. After passing through a
stratum of human bones, under which were two coffins, hollowed out of the
solid stone, the workmen came to eleven or twelve coffins, each formed of
stone (apparently from the quarries of Malton), loosely placed together, with-
out cement or fastening. Each of these coffins was covered with a rough
flag, four inches thick, under which skeletons were found laid on the bare
earth, the coffins being without bottoms. The situation being wet, some of
the coffins contained a quantity of clear water, through which the skeletons
appeared entire, but when the water was removed, and the bodies were ex-
posed to the air, they crumbled into dust. The singular form of these
coffins ; the rough manner in which they were constructed; and their depth
in the earth, prove their great antiquity, and confirm the belief that they are
vestiges not merely of Roman or Saxon times, but that they contain remains
of our aboriginal ancestors.
On Monday, the 17th of August, 1807, while the workmen were preparing
the foundation for a building near the Mount, in the suburbs of York, a
Roman sepulchral vault or chamber was discovered about four feet from the
surface, which was eight feet long, by five feet wide, and six feet high, built
of stone, and arched over with Roman brick. A coffiin of rag-stone grit,
about seven feet long, occupies nearly the whole of the vault, and in the
coffin is a human skeleton entire, with the teeth complete, supposed to be
the remains of a Roman lady, consigned to the mansion of the dead from
fourteen to seventeen centuries ago. Near the scull, which is remarkably
small, was found a small phial or lachrimatory, in which vessels the ancients
deposited the tears they shed for their departed friends. The workmen also
found at the same time, not far from the vault, a large red coloured urn in
which were ashes, and the partially burnt bones of a human body. This
ancient sepulchre, together with the skeleton, is still preserved in its original
state, for the inspection of the curious, and the house which contains it is
now in the occupation of Mr. Geoige Flower.
HISTORY OF THE CITT OF YORK. 803
About the beginning of the present oentoiy sereral Roman fragmentary
remains were found at the Mount, near York ; amongst them was part of a
coffin bearing the following incription :^--
ME. . . . ALTHEODORI
ANI- .OMEN'VIXrr'ANN
XXX.VM'VI- EHI'THEO
D..A- MATER'E'C
We learn from this inscription, though it contains some difficulties to an
inteipreter, that it was designed to preserre the memory of Theodonanus, of
Nomentum (probably), who lived thirty-four years and six months, by his
mother Theodora. Also a fragment of a monumental tablet, containing the
following portion of the original inscription ; —
O'C'FIL
...O'YARIA
X-HISP*H£RE
....-PATROMO
• . . .EKTI'FECSRT^T
A gratefiil tribute, it is probable, paid to a patron by some person who had
recelYed fix>m him their freedom.
In 1818 two stone coffins, seven feet in length, three feet wide, and six
inches thick, were dug up in a gravel pit near Fulford Church, in each of
which was a human skeleton, and a small quantity of a white substance re-
sembling lime saturated with grease. These coffins are each cut out of a
solid block of stone.
In excavating for the York and North Midland Railway, near the bridge
in Holdgate Lane, a Roman altar was found. It has no inscription, but as
it bears the figures of three females, it is supposed to have been dedicated to
the Deed Matres, or Matrons, female deities, three in number, supposed to
have been introduced into Britain by the German auxiliaries. These three
figures are represented on the front of the altar, sitting in a recess ; on the
right side of the altar is a single male figure, and on the left two male figures.
These are thought to have been designed to represent the Emperor Septimus
Severus, and his sons Caracalla and Geta. The fourth side, which is much
defaced, seems to have been the representation of an altar, and an animal
standing before it This antique relic of pagan Eboracum is now deposited
in the Museum. In the excavations at the same place a coffin was found,
bearing the following inscription : —
804 HISTORT OF THE CITT OF TOBK.
D'M'SIMFLICIAB'FLOBENTIKE
ANIXB INNOCENTISSIXE
QVE YIXIT MSN8S8 DECEM
FELICIYS'SIMPIiEX'PATEB'FECIT
L*E-0*VI'V
" To the Gods, the Manes.'t' To Simplicia Florentiiia, a most innocent beingi
Felicius Simplex, her father, of the Sixth Legion Victorious, dedicated this."
No mother^i^li^ appears, says Mr. WeUbdoved, " a circumstance which
suggests the probaoSyy of the birth of this darling child having been marked
by a lamentable evenithat gives still greater interest to this tribute of pater-
nal afifection." This^tar, together with the whole of the following antiqui-
ties, forms part of toe valuable collection in the Museum at York. In the
excavation for the same railway, part of a sepulchral monument was turned
up. The letter M alone, denoting *' Manibus,** remains.
An altar was recently discovered in the rubble foundation under one of the
pillars of the church of St. Dennis, Walmgate, York, inscribed : —
DEO.
▲BOIACON
ET N* AVOSI
MAT* VITALIS
OBD V* 8* LM.
Which may be read thus, DEO Arciacon et Numini Augusti Simatius Vitalis
Ordovix Votum solvit libens merito, i. e. " To the God Arciacon and to the
Divinity of Augustus, Simatius Vitalis, one of the Ordovices, discharges his
vow willingly, deservedly," — ^namely, by dedicating this altar. There is
nothing in the inscription to indicate its date.
An altar was found in the Roman baths, discovered in excavating the site
of the Railway Station. The inscription is —
DEAB
FOBTVMAB
SOSIA
IVMOINA
Q* ANTONI
IBAVBIGI
LEO* Ava*
^ The word Mane$ denotes the souls of the departed, " but as it is a natural tendenoy
to consider the souls of departed friends as blessed spirits, they ware called by the Bo-
mans Dii Bianes, and were worshipped with divine honours**^
HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 805
Rendered thus — " To the Goddess Fortune, hj Socia Juncina, the daughter
of Quintus Antonius Isauricus, of the Legion Augusta." This altar must
have been erected here during the first half of the second century of the
Christian era, as the Legion Augusta, which came into Britain with Claudius,
took up its head-quarters at Caerlon, in South Wales, after it had been in
the north with Hadrian and Antoninus Pius.
Li 1886 two coffins were found in the Castle yard, York, one of which
bears this inscription : —
AYR- SVPEHO- CENT . I
LEG" VI- QVIVIXITANIS
XXXVIII* Mini- DXin* AVRE
LIA* CENSORINA' COIVNX
MEMORDIM- POSSVIT
" To the Gods, the Manes. To the memory of Aurelius Superus, a Cen-
turion of the Sixth Legion, who lived xxxviii years, iv months, xiii days,
Aurelia Censoria his wife set up this."
Li 1810 several fragmentary remains of the Roman period were foimd
below one of the piers at the south end of the old bridge over the Ouse, in
York. A very singular and remarkable Roman tomb was discovered in 1848,
not far from the entrance through the city wall to the Railway Station. It
was composed of ten large slabs of grit stone, and contained the remains of a
body, which had been placed in a coffin of wood, and covered with lime. The
coffin had almost entirely perished, but the lime remained, exhibiting a cast
of the body, over which it had been poured. This cast is deposited in the
Museum, and the tomb is in the ruins of the chapel of St Leonardos
HospitaL
Li 1888 a tomb was discovered near Dringhouses, on the road to Tad-
caster, formed of roof tiles and ridge tiles, which bear the impress of the
Sixth Legion ; erected, it is probable, over the ashes of a soldier of that Le-
gion. It contained nothing but a layer of the remains of a funeral pile,
consisting of charcoal and bones, with several iron nails. A tomb of the
same kind, but of smaller dimensions, was found not fax from the city walls,
near the entrance to the Railway Station. It was probably the tomb of a
soldier of the Ninth Legion, the tiles being stamped Leo IX.
In 1881 a Roman tomb or coffin was discovered in Heslington field, about
a mile from York. It contained some few remains of the body of a female,
which had been covered with lime in a liquid state. This lime, which ex-
2 R
806 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
liibits a cast of the bodj, together with some trinkets imbedded in it, may be
seen in the Museum.' The coffin is deposited in the Multangular Tower.
A plain altar was found in a garden in Lord Mayor's Walk, some years
Ago ; and another small plain altar was discovered in 1851, by a person digging
for sand, in a lane on the south side of Dunnington Common, near York.
Amongst the many relics of the Roman period which were discovered
during the excavations for the Railway, are the remains of Roman baths,
which presented themselves whilst clearing the site of the Station. There
is a curious model of these remains in the Museum. In 1841 the relics of
a human body, which had been deposited in lime in a liquid state, was found
in a stone coffin near the entrance through the rampart to the Railway Sta-
tion. The remains of another bodv of the leaden coffin, in which it had been
buried, were also found near the terminus of the Railway. Three smaller
coffins of lead, containing the bones of children, and the whole were de-
posited in the )Iuseum. In 1849 some burnt wheat was found in Jubbergate
at the depth of sixteen feet below the surface, on the site, it is supposed, of a
Roman granary which had been destroyed by fire.
In July, 1851, a Roman coffin was found about three feet below the sur-
face, near Skeldergate Postern, by the side of the road leading to Bishop-
thorpe. It contained a cast of the bodies of a female and a child, now
deposited in the Museum. The body of the child appears to have been
placed, as the impression of the lime represents it, between the legs of the
woman, who was probably its mother. The garments in which they were
buried appear to have been ornamented with crimson or purple stripes, of a
texture something like velvet or plush ; portions of the coloured fibre being
found adhering to the lime. On the site of the office of the Yorkshire In-
surance Company, amongst the foundations of buildings, was found, some
years ago, part of a drain, which is interesting as a specimen of Roman
sewerage ; and as being illustrative of the Roman method of constructing
walls of alternate courses of brick and stone.
At Aldborough, the site of the ancient Isurium, numerous specimens of
tesselated pavements have often been found, but it was not tiU the year 1814
that any remains of this kind were discovered in York.* In the month of
* At Aldborongh, about half a mile east of Boronghbridge, the site of the Boman city
of l9uriumt tesselated pavements, some of them extensiYe and of the most heantifiil
description, have been discovered, especially in the years 1832, 1846, and 1848. Many
other interesting remains of the ancient Isurium, including a hypocaust, the supposed
foundations of the basilica, the sites of baths and other public buildings, have been re-
cently laid bare, and many of the tesselated floors and other antiquities discovered here.
HI3T0RT OF THE CITY OF YORK. 807
April in that year a beautiful specimen of this Mosaic work was laid bare,
adjoining the rampart, in Bar Lane, near Micklegate Bar. It appeared to
have been four yards square, and for some years it was enclosed and pre-
served on the spot upon which it was discovei'ed, and exhibited to the curious.
This being the first Roman tesselated pavement found in this ancient Roman
city, a beautiful coloured engraving of it was published by Mr. Fowler, of
Winterton, and well it was that he did so, for the Corporation (having pur-
chased the property upon which it stood) presented it to the Yorkshire Philo-
sophical Society, and it was broken into fragments in its removal to the
Museum, and but very little of it was preserved. The spot upon which it
was laid is now the soil pit of the Jolly Bacchus public house. Mr. Har-
grove, as we have already observed, thinks that this and the next pavement
to be noticed had been connected with the great Roman Temple of Serapis.
In Toft Green, not far from the site of the last-mentioned ancient flooring,
another beautiful Roman tesselated pavement was discovered, fourteen feet
below the present surface, in 1853. It is nearly perfect, and measures four-
teen feet three inches square. When perfect, the pattern was chiefly com-
posed of the common labyrinthine fret, and five heads ; one in the centre
, representing Medusa, and four in the comers personifying the four seasons
of the year — Spring, with its feathered songster ; Summer, with its flowers
and fruit ; Autumn, with its hay rake ; and Winter, with its dry and leafless
branch. Immediately beneath it were found an empty urn, covered with a
square tile ; a coin, first brass of Hadrian, and a third-brass coin of Claudius
Gothicus, with the legend DIVO. CLAVDIO on the obverse ; proving that
this pavement was not laid down before a. d. 270, the year in which Claudius
died. About twelve or fourteen inches below this pavement, a floor, com-
posed of cement, was found, on which were scattered many tessellsB, finished
and unfinished, and a piece of iron, conjectured ta be a tool used in shaping
ihem.
are preserved on the spot. The vails too of this onoe splendid Roman city have been
recently traced, and as defined by them, the city formed an oblong rectangular parallel-
ogram, of which the longest sides were upwards of 2,100 feet in length, and the shortest
somewhat more than 1,300 feet, making a circuit of rather more than one mile and a
half, and enclosing an area of 60 acres. The thickness of the wall varies fW)m ten to
sixteen feet ; it appears to have been faced with carefiilly squared stones, without tho
usual bondings of brick, at least no traces of them have been found. Outside the walls
sepulchral urns, graves, deposits of burnt bones, and places which seemed to have been
used for the purpose of cremation, have been discovered at different times. The most
remarkable sepulchral remains have been found at a spot without the walls, on the
south side, known by the name of Bed Hills.
308 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
So partial were the Romans to tesselated pavements, that it was customaiy
with them, when on a march, to be accompanied with a man, who was styled
tesserarvus, or chequerman, from carrying a sack with tessersB, or chequered
dies of coloured stones, with which he paved or inlaid the platform where
the commanding officer thought fit to pitch his tent.
Near the line of the York and Newcastle Railway, on the site of the house
erected for the residence of the secretary, was found, in the year 1840, up-
wards of 200 Roman silver coins, which, with the vessel in which they were
deposited, are now in the Yorkshire Museum. Five of them are of the Con-
sular or Family series, much worn, and illegible ; eighteen are denarii of some
of the early Emperors ; the rest range from Septimius Severus to M. Jul.
Philippus. Many belonging to the later Emperors appear to have been cast
in moulds, and not to have been in circulation.
In the month of September, 1854, the workmen employed in sinking a
shaft for constructing a deep drain in Church Street, cut through what was
considered to be a Roman Wall, and in the centre discovered a leaden pipe
six feet long, about four inches and a half diameter inside, made of very thick
lead, in a peculiar manner, with a socket on the outside to join to the pipe.
A few days afterwards whilst excavating for a branch drain in the same street,
the workmen laid bare the remainder of the supposed Roman Wall, when it
was found to be a mass of concrete, about four feet thick, extending round
the leaden pipe, in aU probability to keep the pipe from settling unevenly
and to protect it from injury. About nine feet more of the lead piping was
obtained. It has no doubt been used to convey water. Near it some Roman
draining tiles were also found, which were very probably to take away the
waste water from some bath. The pipe and tiles, together with the above-
mentioned specimen of Roman drainage, may be seen at tiie Museum.
In a few days after the discovery of this leaden pipe, the workmen em-
ployed in digging a large and deep drain from Monk Bar to the river Ouse,
discovered, at the junction of Goodramgate and Petergate, at the depth of
twenty-three feet below the surface, a slab of grey limestone, measuring
in its present state three feet nine inches square, bearing the following
inscription : —
P-CAESAI
ERVAE • FIL • NI
NVS • AVG • GER
NTIFEX • MAXIHV
TESTATIS • XII • IMP . V
PER-LEG • Vnn . HI
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 309
The Rev. C. Wellbdoved, in a communicatioii to the Yorkshire Philoso-
phical Society, pronounced the inscription, when perfect, to have heen —
IMP • CAESAR
NERVAE • FIL * NER ' TRA
lANUS ' AVO . GERM
PONTIFEX • MAXIMVS * TR
POTESTATIS • Xn * IMP * VI
PER • LEG • Villi • HISP
and he translates it thus: — "The Emperor Offisar, son of Nerva, Nerva
Trajanus Augustus Germanicus, High Priest, invested for the sixth time
with the Trihunitian power, saluted for the sixth time Imperator, erected
(this building) by the Ninth Legion, called Hispanica (Spanish)." "The
investment of Trajan with these honours," he adds, " synchronizes with a.d.
109, 110. At that time then, as we learn from this tablet, the Ninth Legion,
which came into Britain with Claudius in the year 48, and formed part of
the forces of Agricola when he subdued the Brigantes in the year 79, was at
Eboracum employed by Trajan, who never was in Britain, in the erection of
public buildings."
In the Pictorial Bible ^ at page 469 of vol. iv., is a representation of the
triumphal arch of Trajan, at Benevento, on which is a very similar in-
scription. It runs thus : —
IMP CAESAR • DIVINERVAE ' EILIO
NERVAE • TRAIANO * OPTIMO . AVC
GERMANICO * DACICO * PONT * MAX * TRIB
POTEST • XVIII • IMP • VII • CONS * VU * PP.
FORTISSIMO • PRINCIPI ' 8ENATVS " P ' O * R
To what public building the stone found at York was affixed, cannot now
be ascertained. Mr. Wellbeloved thinks that it may have been that gate of
the ancient Roman station which is supposed to have stood very near the
spot in which it was found. And this suggests an important question — ^Was
the ancient Eboracum, or Eburacum, as Mr. Wellbeloved has it, fortified
with a wall at that early period ? The place in which this tablet was dis-
covered is the one which tradition has assigned as part of the site of the
Roman Pnetorium or Palace at York. The precise spot at which it was found
was formerly called King s Court, and still more anciently, Eonyng Garth
(the word Konyng signifying royal or kingly); and at this point was probably
in the time of Tn^an the grand entrance to the Imperial Palace. The
810 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF tORK.
period of the erection of the tablet is fixed by the inscription itself at the year
of our Lord 110, or thereabouts, and shews indisputably that the Emperor
Trajan was then acknowledged as Emperor at York. It is deserving of re-
mark that the letters on the first line of the inscription are six inches long,
and that they have been cut by a first-rate artist, and the grandeur and im-
portance of the building, to wliich the tablet was once attached, may be
judged of from the care and skill which have obviously been devoted to the
inscription. Trajan was one of the best, and most just and lenient of the
Eoman Emperors. May we not then, vrith some show of reason, suppose
that this elegant tablet once graced or surmounted the entrance to the court
yard of the palace ? The inscription is not dissimilar to that which adorns
the famous *' Trajan column " at Rome ; and it has been weU remarked by
one of the local journals, that time and the effects of atmospheric variations
have contributed to tarnish the original perfection of the inscription at Rome,
whilst the lettering of what remains to us at York, upon the newly discovered
tablet, is as clear, and as fresh, and as perfect, as it was on the day when,
upwards of seventeen hundred years ago, it left the hand of the talented en-
graver, and was put up at York by the gallant Ninth Legion of imperial Rome.
This tablet is the most ancient, as well as the most authentic, of the records
which have ever yet been discovered of the Roman occupation of this city. It
is a valuable discovery, inasmuch as it fixes a precise period when the Legio
Nono Hispanica (Ninth Spanish Legion) was in York. But little is known
of that corps. In the reign of Nero it was nearly destroyed at Camuldunum
(Colchester), by the British forces under the celebrated Queen Boadicea.
Tacitus informs us that it was afterwards recruited from Germany, but it
again suffered severely in the fierce attack of the Caledonians, at the time
when Julius Agricola was Propraetor and Legate at York. The inscription
upon the recently discovered tablet shows pretty plainly that this legion was
stationed at York in the time of the Emperor Trajan, and that the tablet
itself was raised by that legion. This corps being weak in number at the
time of the arrival in York of the Sixth Conquering Legion, it is supposed
to have been incorporated with that legion.
In the course of the excavations near the place where the above-mentioned
tablet was found, the workmen turned up many Roman tiles, some of which
bear the stamp of the Ninth Legion. The tablet and tiles are deposited in
the Museum. In the month of March in the present year (1855), the work-
men employed in draining operations found two stone coffins in Monkgate,
near the bottom of Lord Mayor's Walk.
Besides the relics of the Roman period already noticed, a great many
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF TORE. 311
fragments of monumental and other tablets, urns, pillars, sculptured stones^
domestic ware and other utensils, pottery, bricks, tiles, &c. have been found
in York from time to time ; and a goodlj collection of them may be seen in
the Yorkshire Museum.
*' Although the Saxons had possession of York during more than three
hundred jears," writes the Rev. Curator, in his Descriptive Account of the
Antiquities in the Museum, " and undoubtedly added greatly to the extent of
the Roman-British city, yet few remains of Saxon York have been discovered.
Their domestic buildings may have been generally constructed of timber, but
their public, and especially their ecclesiastical edifices were built of more
durable materials. The first Christian church indeed, hastily erected by
Edwin, in the beginning of the sixth century, was of wood ; but it very soon
gave place to one of stone ; and about the end of the eighth century this was
rebuilt and enlarged by Archbishop Albert, of whose magnificent structure,
portions, as it is supposed by some, may be seen in the crypt beneath the
choir of the present Minster. It appears from Domesday, that at the time
of the Norman Conquest there were in York no fewer than nine parochial
churches ; but in these, as they exist at present, no traces of Saxon work-
manship are left The tower of another church (St. Mary, Bishophill Junior),
not mentioned in Domesday, has been referred to the Saxon era ; but it has
most probably been constructed by later hands, of Saxon and even of Roman
materials. A recent breach in the city rampart, near the Railway Station,
brought to light a portion of the fortifications of Eoferwic ; the searching eye
of an antiquary may detect tomb-stones, capitals, and other fragments of
Saxon work built into the walls of our mediaeval churches ; and an excavator
may occasionally turn up a relic of Saxon times, yet the memorials of their
long occupation of our ancient city, left by the Saxons, are far less numerous
and important than might have been expected.
A portion of a Saxon cross or piUar, with several rude wooden coffins, and
some other Saxon remains, were found in excavating for the New Market or
Parliament Street ; a curiously ornamented fragment of a stone cross was
discovered in the excavations, preparatory to the building of St. Leonard's
Place ; and several Saxon coffin lids have been found in other parts of York.
This city partook largely of the vicissitudes to which the country was ex-
posed during the period between the evacuation of Britain by the Romans,
and the conquest of this island by the Normans. The Picts and the Scots,
the Saxons and the Danes, each in succession erected their standards before
its gates, and obtained possession of it, as we have shewn in the preceding
pages of this work. Though shorn of that splendour which imperial Rome
812 HI8T0BT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
conferred, still York maintained, after the departure of that people, a dis-
tinguished rank as a metropolitan city, and as the centre of commercial
attraction. When Arthur, the most celebrated of the British monarchs be-
fore the Conquest, had expelled the Saxons almost from the island in the
year 531, the city of York was delivered up to him, and firom it he proceeded
on his expedition into Scotland, with a determination to destroy that ancient
seat of emnity from one end to another. But from this purpose he was dis-
suaded by his spiritual guides, and having abandoned his purpose, he returned
to York, and there with his clergy, nobility, and soldiers, celebrated the fes-
tival of Christmas in feasting, mirth, and rejoicings. This was the first
festival of the kind ever celebrated in Britain, and from which all those ever
since held have taken their model. '' The latter end of December," says
Buchanan, "was spent in mirth, jollity, drinking, and the vices that are too
often the consequences, so that the representations of the old heathenish
feasts, dedicated to Saturn, were here again revived. Gifts were sent mutu-
ally from one to another, frequent invitations passed between friends, and
domestic offenders were not punished. All this was to celebrate the Nativity
of Christ, then, as they say, bom,"
Edwin, King of Northumbria, mado York the metropolis of his kingdom,
and upon his conversion to Christianity, erected it into an Archiepiscopal
See, of which he appointed Paulinus, Ethelburga his Queen's confessor, Pri-
mate. On the death of Edwin, who was killed in battle in 633, while
resisting an attack of the Britons, under Cadwallon, assisted by Penda, King
of Mercia, the city suffered severely from the ravages of the confederated
armies, who devastated it with fire and sword, and massacred the inhabitants.
Ethelburga and Paulinus fled into Kent, and the scarcely-finished church,
which Edwin had erected, lay neglected for some time, till it wsis restored by
Oswald, Edwin's successor. When the kingdom of Northumbria was divided
into two kingdoms — Deira and Bemicia — York was the capital of the former.
Upon the union of the several kingdoms of the Heptarchy, in the reign of
Egbert, York again became a place of importance. At this period (the 9th
century) it was the seat, not only of commerce, but of literature, as far as
ihey then prevailed in the country ; and the library collected by Archbishop
Egbert, and placed in the Cathedral, ranked amongst the first in Christen-
dom. The Malmsbury historian, speaking of this library, says, " it is the
noblest repository, and cabinet of arts and sciences, in the whole world;" and
Alcuin, the celebrated instructor of Charlemagne, in one of his letters to his
royal pupil, requests that scholars may be sent from France to copy the works
deposited here, " that the garden of letters may not be shut up in York, but
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 313
that some of its fruits may be placed in the paradise of Tours. '**^ Manj
copies of some of the most valuable works in this libraiy were obtained by
Alcuin, even after he took up his residence in the court of Charlemagne ; and
these were afterwards copied again, and dispersed through the yarious monas-
teries in the dominions of that monarch. Thus is France in part indebted
for her literature to the ancient citj of York ; and to a certain extent also is
Germany, for several of the books belonging to her first Apostle, Boniface,
were sent to him in that country by Archbishop £gbert.
York suffered much during the 9th and 10th centuries from the incursions
of the Danes, who spread destruction eYer3rwhere, spoiling the city, and burn-
ing and wasting the country around it for miles. During this period many
of the Danish chieftains found, near York, a grave, among whom was the
brave Earl Siward.
When the Danes fitted up a mighty fleet, and entered the Humber, in
867, under the command of Hinguar and Hubba, their first operation was
against York, where a sanguinary battle was fought, partly in the midst of
the city ; when the two Saxon Kings of Northumbria, Osbert and Ella, were
slain, and the city was reduced to a heap of ruins by the enraged barbarians,
"who spared neither palace nor cottage, age or sex." (See pa^e 97. J
Having been rebuilt, it was for ages the centre, and frequently the scene, of
the struggles which were maintained between the Saxons and the Danes ;
and when Sweyne, the Danish King, defeated Ethelred, the King of England,
in a bloody and well-contested battle, near York, and the latter fled to Nor-
mandy, leaving his crown and kingdom to the conqueror, it became one of
the principal settlements of those rapacious invaders. Whilst the throne of
England was filled by Danish Kings, their Viceroys, or Comites Narthumbriat
took up their residence at York; whilst the Sovereigns themselves not
nnfirequently made this city the royal residence.
Sweyne died in 1014, and was succeeded by his son Canute, the most
powerful monarch of his time. The well-known reproof given by this latter
King to his fawning courtiers is so just and impressive, that its memory has
survived through eight centuries. Some of those flatterers breaking out into
expressions of admiration of his power and grandeur, exclaimed, that in him
everything was possible. Upon which Canute ordered his chair to be placed
upon the sea-shore while the tide was rising. As the waters approached, he
commanded them with a voice of authority to retire, and to obey the lord of
the ocean. For some time he feigned to sit in expectation of their sub-
• Lei. Coll., i, p. 899.
2 s
814 HISTORt OF THE CfTTt OF TORS.
mission, but the sea still advanced towards him, and began to wash him with
its billows ; on which he turned to his courtiers, and said '* Behold how feeble
and impotent is man. Power resideth in one being alone, in whose hands
are the elements of nature, and who alone can say to the ocean — Thus far
thou shaU go and no further, and who can level with his nod the most
towering piles of pride and ambition.*' The chroniclers fix the locality of
this great moral lesson at Southampton.
When the Norwegian armada landed their forces at Biccal, they took York
by storm, after a desperate battle fought at Fulford. On the approach of
Harold, the last Anglo-Saxon Monarch of England, at the head of a powerful
army, the invaders quitted the city, and took up a strong position to the east
of York, whither they were followed by Harold, and the battle of Stamford
Bridge ensued. (See page 104.^ In the intervals of peace which the citizens
experienced, the city gradually recovered, and continued to flourish till the
Conquest.
From the Domesday Survey we learn that at the period succeeding the
Norman Conquest, York was of considerable size, and worthy the rank of
being the principal city of the north. From that valuable record, as trans-
lated by the Bev. W. Bawdwen, we extract the following : —
<' In Eboraco dvitate (city of York) in the time of King Edward (the Con-
fessor), besides the ward of the Archbishop, there were 6 wards : one of these
was destroyed when the Castles were built In 6 wards there were 1418
inhabited mansions. The Archbishop has yet a third part of one of these
wards. In these no one, but as a burgess, was entitled to any cnstomaiy
payments, except Merlesuain, in one house, which is below the Castle; and
except the Canons wherever they reside, and except 4 Magistrates, to whom
the King granted this privilege by his writ, and that for their lives ; but the
Archbishop was entitled to all customary payments in his ward. Of all the
above-mentioned mansions, there are now in the King's possession 391 in-
habited, great and small, paying custom; and 400 uninhabited,'!' which do
not yield customaiy services, but some only one penny rent, and others less;
and 640 mansions so uninhabitable, that they pay nothing at all; and
foreigners f hold 145 houses.
" St. Cuthbert has one mansion, which he always had, as many say, quit
of all custom ; but the burgesses say that it had not been quit in the time of
• These were snch aa had no constant inhabitant tied to residence, bat such as went
and came as they pleased.
f Francigenae, or perhaps, non redentei coniuetudinem.
mSTOBY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 815
King Edward, unless as one of the burgesses, or for this reason, he had his
own toll,* and that of the Canons. Besides this the Bishop of Durham has,
of the Eing*s gift, the church of All Saints, and what belonged to it; and all
the land of Uctred, and the land of Emuin, which Hugo the Sheriff quit-
daimed to Walcherus, Bishop of Durham, by the King's writ; and the
burgesses who rent it saj that thej hold it under the King. The Earl of
Morton has there fourteen mansions, and two stalls in the butchery, and the
church of St Crux ; Osbem, the son of Boso, had these, and whatever be-
longed to them, granted to him. Thej had been the mansions of Sonulfus,
the priest (one), Morulfus (one), Sterrus (one), Esnarrus (one), Gamel with
four drenches (one). Archil (five), Levingus the priest (two), Turfin (one),
Ligilfus (one). Nigel de Monnevile has one house of a certain Monier.
Nigel Fossart has two houses of Modera, and holds them imder the King.f
Waldin usurped two houses of Eetel the priest for one house of Sterre.
Hamelin has one house in the city ditch; and Waldin one house of Einulfus,
and another of Alwin. Richard de Surdeval two houses of Turchil and
RavechiL Nigil Fossart usurped two houses ; but it is said he restored them
to the Bishop of Constance.^ William de Percy has fourteen mansions of
Bemulfus, Gamelbar, Sort, Egbert, Selecolf, Algrim, Norman, Dunstan,
Adolfus, Weleret, Ulchel, Godolent, Soneva, Osbert, and the church of St.
Maiy. Of Earl Hugo the same William has two mansions of two bailiffs of
Eail Harold ; but the burgesses say one of them had not been the EarFs,
but the other had been forfeited to him. The church of St. Cuthbert the
same William also claims of Earl Hugo, and seven small houses containing
fiffy feet in width, besides one house of a certain person named Uctred. The
bnigesses declare that William de Percy included one house within the Castle,
after he had returned from Scotland. But William himself denies that he
had had the land of this Uctred ; but he affirms ^that the house was laid to
the Castle by Hugo, the Sheriff, the first year after its destruction.§ Hugo,
son of Baldric, has four houses of Adulphus, Hedned, Turchil, and Gospatric,
and twenty-nine small mansions || at a rent, and the church of St. Andrew's,
which he bought. Robert Malet has nine houses of these men ; (viz.) Tume,
Grim, Grimchetel, Emuin, Elsi, and another Emuin, Glunier, Halden, Ra-
vencheL Emeis de Bumn has four houses of Grim, Alwin, Gospatric, and
* For things bought and sold in the market f Probably in eapite, and therefore quit.
{ Chief Jusddary of England. He was possessed of 280 manors.
I Anno 1070.
Ij Therefore man»Ume$ might be large inns or dwelling plaeee, perhaps fneauagia.
316 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
the church of St. Martin; two of these mansions pay fourteen shillings.
Gilbert Maminot has three houses of Meurdock. Berenger de Todeni has
two houses of Gamelcarle and Alwin, and eight houses at rent A moiety of
these is in the city ditch. Osbeme de Archis has two houses of Brun the
priest and his mother, and twelve houses at a rent, and two houses of tlie
Bishop of Constance. Odo Balistarius has three houses of Feme and Orme,
and one of Elaf at a rent, and one church. ^ Richard, son of Erfast, three
houses of Alchemont, and Gospatric and Bemulf, and the church of Holy
Trinity. Hubert de Montcanisi, one house of Bundus. Landric, the car-
penter, has ten houses and a half, wliich the Sheriff made over to him.
" In the time of King Edward the yaluct: of the city to the King was
fifty-three pounds ; now one hundred pounds by weight-t In the time of
King Edward there were in the Archbishop's ward I 189 inhabited houses at
a rent. At present there are 100 inhabited, great and small, besides the
Archbishop's palace and the Canons' houses. The Archbishop hath as much
in his ward as the King in his wards.
"Within the geld of the city there are fourscore and four carucates of land,
and every one of them taxed as one house in the city, and they with the
citizens did the three works for the King.§ Of these the Archbishop has
six carucates, which three ploughs may till. These compose the fatm
belonging to his palace. This was not improved and let at a rent in the
time of King Edward, but here and there cultivated by the burgesses ; it is
the same now. Of the land described, the King's pool destroyed two new
mills of the value of twenty shillings, and overflowed one carucate of arable,
meadow, and garden ground. Value in King Edward's time sixteen shillings,
now three. In Osboldeuuic (Osboldwick) there are six carucates of land be-
longing to the Canons, where there may be three ploughs. The Canons
have now there two ploughs and a half, and six viUanes and three bordars
having two ploughs and a half. Likewise in Mortun (Morton) the Canons
have four carucates of land, where they may be two ploughs ; but it is waste.
These two villages are one mile in breadth, and one in length. In Stocthnn
(Stockton) there are six carucates, where they may be three plou^s. They
* This is to be understood of the annual value.
f The ancient way of paying money by weight, opposed to the payment of the same
de numeroy importing twenty shillings.
} If the ward, shire, or district, meant only the close of the Cathedral, it is plain there
were more houses in it before the Conquest than there are now, or indeed well could
stand in the compass.
§ Burgbote, Brigbote, and Expeditio, called trinoda neeeiHtae,
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 317
are waste ; of these, three belong to the Canons, and three to Eaxl Alan.
These are half a mile m length, and half a mile in breadth. In Sabura
(Saubum) there are three carucates,* where they may be one plough and a
half. Waste. Ealph Paganel holds it. The Canons say that they them-
selves had it in the time of King Edward. In Heuuarde (Haworth) Orme
had one manor of six canicates of land, where they may. be three ploughs.
Hugo, son of Baldric, has now one vassal and one plough ; value in King
Edward's time ten shillings, now five shillings. In the same village Walt^
had one manor of three canicates of land ; Richard now has it of the Earl of
Morton ; value in King Edward's time ten shillings, now ten shillings and
eightpence. This village is one mile long, and half a mile broad. In Fule-
ford (Fulford) Morcar had one manor of ten carucates of land. Earl Alan
now has it ; there may be five ploughs. There are now in the demesne two
ploughs, and six viUanes have two ploughs there. It is in length one mile,
and in breadth half a mile. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings,
now sixteen. In the circuit of the city Torfin has one carucate of land, and
Torchil two carucates; these two ploughs may till. In Cliftune (Clifton)
there are eighteen carucates of land subject to the tax geld or gelt; these
nine ploughs may till ; it is now waste. Value in King Edward's time twenty
shiUings. Of these Morcar had nine carucates of land, and one half to be
taxed, which five ploughs may till. Earl Alan has now there two ploughs,
and two viUanes and four boidars with one plough. In it are fifty acres of
meadow ; of these twenty-nine belong to St. Peter, and the other to the Earl.
Besides these the Archbishop has eight acres of meadow. This manor is
one mile long, and one broad. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings ;
the same now. The Canons have eight carucates and a half; they are waste.
In Eoudclifie (BAwcliff) there are three carucates of land to be taxed, which
two pbttghs may till ; of these Saxford, the Deacon, had two carucates, with
a ball (now St Peter), and the value ten shillings. And Turber had (now
the King) one carucate with a hall ; and the value five shillings ; now both
are waste. There are three acres of meadow there. In the whole, half a
mile long, and as much broad. In Ouerton (Overton) there are to be taxed
five carucates of land, which two ploughs and a half may till ; Morcar had a
hall there. Earl Alan has now there one plough and five villanes, and three
bordars with three ploughs, and thirty acres of meadow, and wood pasture
one mile long, and two quarentens broad. In the whole, one mile in length,
and half a mile in breadth ; value in King Edward's time, and now, twenty
shillings. In Sceltun (Skelton) there are nine carucates of land to be taxed,
818 HI8T0BT OF TRB CITT OF TOUC
which four ploughs may tiU; of these St Peter had, and has, three eamcates
in King Edward's time; and the Talue six shillings; it is now waste. Tor-
her held two carocates of this land, with a hall, and six oxgangs. Now one
farmer funm eeruoriutj has it under the King ; and there are two ploughs
and six villanes ; value in King Edward's time six shillings, now eight. Two
carucates and six oxgangs of the same land belonging to Overton. Eail
Alan has there one vassal with one plough. In the whole, half a mile in
length, and half in breadth. In Mortun (Morton) there are to be taxed three
carucates of land, which one pbugh may till. Archil held this land, and the
value was ten shillings ; it is now waste. In Wichistun (Wigginton) there
is to be taxed one carucate of land, which one plough may till. Saxford, the
Deacon, held it. Now St Peter has it It was and is waste. There is
coppice wood there. The whole length, half a mile, and the breadth ha]£
'' These had Soke, Sac, Toll, Thaim, and all customs, in the time of King
Edward ; Earl Harrold, Merelesuen, Ulffenisc, Toigod Lageman, Tochi (son
of Otra), Edwin and Morcar, upon the land of Ingold only.
** Qamel, son of Osbert, upon Gottingham only, Copsi upon Coxwold only,
and Cnut Of those which he forfeited he made satisfiiction to no one but
to the King and the Earl. The Earl has no right whatever in the church
manors ; neither the King in the manors of the Earl, excepting what relates
to spiritualities which belong to the Archbishop, in all the land of St Peter
at York, and St John, and St WilMd, and St Cuthbert, and the Holy
Trinity. The King likewise hath not had any custom there, neither the
Earl, nor any other. The King has three wa3rs by land, and a fourth by
water. In these all forfeitures belong to the King and the Earl, whichsoever
way they go, either through the land of the King, or of the Archbishop, or
of the Earl.
** The King's peace given imder his hand or seal, if it shall have been
broken, satisfaction is to be made to the King only by twelve hundreds ;
every himdred eight pounds. Peace given by an Earl by whomsoever bro-
ken, satisllACtion is to be made by six hundreds ; every hundred eight pounds.
If any one shall have been exiled according to law, no one but the King shall
pardon him. But if an Earl or Sheriff shall have exiled any one from the
country, they themselves may recall him, and pardon him if they will. Those
Thanes who shall have had more than six manors pay relief of lands to the
King only. The relief is eight pounds. But if he shall have had only six
manors or fewer, three marks of silver shall be paid to the Sheriff for the
relief. But the burgesses, citizens of York, do not pay relief."
ai8T0RT OF TBB OITT OF TOBK. 819
The chief entries respectmg the city of York are thus summed up by Sir
Henry EUis,* — '* In the time of Edward the Confessor, there were six shires
in York besides the shire of the Archbishop. One of these shires at the time
of the Survey, had been demolished to make room for the Castles. In the
other five shires there were 1,418 ' mansiones hospitatse.' In the shire of the
Archbishop there were, in the time of King Edward, 180 ' mansiones hospi-
tatiB,* so that the full number of those mansions was 1,607, besides the shire
sacrificed to the Castles. The whole number may be presumed to have been
1800, or thereabouts ; the Curia of the Archbishop and the houses of the
Canons not included in this estimate. The whole number of ' Domus Hos-
pitatee,* at the time of the Survey, may be reckoned at 1,036."
Drake supposes that in all there were 3,000 inhabited houses in York in
the reign of the Confessor, containing a population of 10,000 ; and allowing
the suburbs to be as extensive as Leland represents, he says, " we may rea-
sonably suppose above as many more inhabtants to have resided in them.**f
Sir H. Ellis, taking his figures from Domesday itself, makes the population of
the ichoU county 8,066 persons. If this contrast be correct, the devastation in
Yorkshire caused by the Conquest must indeed have been terrific. As has
been shown at page 12d, York, long the " Athens of the North,** was, at the
period of the Conquest, as fair and beautifiil as the city of Home, and its
buildings were as magnificent But its splendours are doomed. The citi*
zens unfortunately refused to yield obedience to the Conqueror, and after a
siege of six months they surrendered, and their city was razed to the ground.
It never entirely recovered this shock.
In 1137 York was again burnt accidentally, including the Cathedral, St
Mary*s Abb^, St Leonardos Hospital, and forty parish Churches. From
being the metropolis of an empire, and the chief residence of the Northum-
biian Eii^^, York had now gradually reduced to the capital and seat of an
Earldom ; the limits of the district under this term being for a long time
eo-extenaive with the boundaries of the kingdom of Northumbria.
« One of the first Parliaments mentioned in history," says Drake, " was
held at York about the year 1160, in the reign of Heniy 11." The same
Monarch held another Parliament here in 1171, at which William, King of
Scotland, did homage for his kingdom.
In the beginning of the reign of Richard I., a great massacre of the Jews
took place here, the details of which are of the most shocking character.
(See page Idd.) In IdSO King Henry m. with Alexander, King of Scotland,
• Sir H. Ellis's Domeedsy, vdL iL, p. 600. , f EbonMrnm, p. 284.
8S0 HI8T0BT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
and an immense number of the nobility and gentiy of both kingdoms, kept
Christmas at York ; and again in 1351 the citj was honoured by the same
illustrious personages, to celebrate the marriage of the Princess Margaret,
daughter of Henry 111., and the Scottish King. In 1201 Edward I. visited
York, on his way to Scotland ; and in 1208 the same monarch held a Par*
liament here, to which he summoned the King of Scotland. This was Ihe
beginning of the wars between the two kingdoms, which raged during that
and the following reign. Sereral Parliaments were held at York during the
reigns of the first three Princes of the bouse of Plantagenet. In 1880 the
unfortunate Richard m. was at York, and conferred the title of Ijo/rd Ma/ifor
on William de Selby, who then filled that high municipal office. During the
Wars of the Roses York experienced many calamities. Richard m. soon
after his accession visited York, where, according to Drake, he caused him-
self to be crowned a second time, his first coronation having taken place
previously in Loiidon. But though the ceremonials connected with Richard's
visit were exceedingly gorgeous, yet Mr. Davies, in his recent work on the
City Records, has adduced evidence which goes a great way to prove that
his own coronation was certainly not one of them. (See page 170.) In 1541
Heniy VIII. established the Great Council of the North, at York, and directed
its sittings to be held at the Manor House, then newly erected out of the
ruins of St. Mary*s Abbey, which, with the rest of the monastic institutions
of the realm, had been previously suppressed. In 1603 York was visited by
James I. In 1604 the plague raged here to an alarming extent (See page
216.) In the reign of Charles I. that monarch retired to York at the com-
mencement of the commotions between him and his Parliament. In April,
1644, the city was besieged by nearly 40,000 men of the Parliament's forces^
under Sir Thomas FairCu and the Earls of Manchester and Leven. During
this siege was fought the battle of Marston Moor, on the 2nd of July, and
the city was surrendered on honorable terms on the 11th of the same month.
At the Restoration, Charles H. was proclaimed here amid great r^oicings.
During the period preceding the Revolution in 1688, this city was noted for
its opposition to the King; and in the very year of the Revolution James 11.
took away its charter, and declared the office of Mayor to be vacant. Imme-
diately after the Revolution the charter was restored, and the civic offices of the
city were re-established. From this period the most noticeable occurrences
have been the visits of illustrious personages. Towards the end of the last
century his Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV .), and
* For an account of this siege see page 241 of this Histoiy.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 821
his royal brother, the Duke of York, visited York ; and Charles James Fox,
the Earl St Vincent, Prince Leopold, the Duke of Sussex, and the great
Duke of Wellington, have also been here. An account of the visits of her
present Majesty, her royal consort, and the juvenile members of the royal
family, in the years 1885, 1848, 1840, 1850, and 1854, will be found at
page 276 to 281 of this volume.
TopooBAPHY. — ^In proceeding to describe York " as it is to day," the con-
trast between it and York of the " olden time " forces itself strongly upon the
mind, and serves to exhibit the vicissitudes to which the ajBGedrs of places as
well as of persons are subject. But though York — ^imperial York— once the
capital of Britain — ^the residence of Emperors and of Kings — ^has been shorn
of some of its brightest beams ; though in remote periods it has been three
times razed to the ground, by the Saxons, the Danes, and the Normans ;
and though in modem times it has been deprived of its commerce by HuU,
and of its manufactures by Leeds and other towns in the West-Riding, it is
still an interesting and venerable city, and the See of an Archbishop. Con-
trasting modem York with its ancient imperial dignity. Sir Thomas Wid-
drington has written : —
York's not so great as old York was of yore,
Yet York it is though wasted to the core ;
It's not that York which Shrank built of old,
Nor yet that York which was of Boman mould ;
York was the third time burnt, and what you see
Are York's small ashes of antiquity.
The City of York, the county town of Yorkshire, is situated near the centre
of Great Britain, in one of the richest and most extensive plains or valleys
in England, at the confluence of the rivers Ouse and Foss, and at the junc-
tion of the York and North Midland and the Great North of Enghmd
Railways, as well as at the point where the three Hidings or districts of the
county meet, though the city is independent of either of them. It is distant
by the York and North MicQand (now called the North Eastern) Railway 220
miles ; and by the Great Northem Railway 191 miles, N. N. W. of London.
The distance from York to the foUowing places (by Railway) is as follows : —
to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 84 miles; to Leeds, 82 ; to Scarborough, 42| ; to
Whitby, 67 ; to Malton, 22 ; to Hull, 53 ; to Selby, 28 ; to Low Harrogate,
29 ; to Market Weighton, 28 ; to Normanton, 24* ; to Derby, 88 ; to Bir-
mingham, 129 ; to Manchester, 76 ; to Berwick-upon-Tweed, 161 ; and to
Edinburgh, 208 miles.
2 T
322 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORlt.
Walls, Gates, &c. — The ancient City of York, which is about three
miles in circumference, is almost surrounded with walls or ramparts ; but
there are no existing records to show when these walls were first erected,
though there is a strong series of historical evidence to prove that York was
fortified both during the Saxon and Danish periods, as weU as under the
Roman power. There is no doubt that under the Roman Prsetors the ancient
Eboracum was well fortified, and there appears to be little doubt that the
form and direction of three of these Roman walls has at different times been
discovered. Combining the evidence furnished bj the position of the por-
tions of the three ancient walls which have been found, the Rev. C. Well-
beloved, of York, one of the best living authorities on the subject, thinks we
are warranted in concluding that the*Roman city was of a rectangular form,
of about 650 yards by about 550, enclosed by a wall, and rampart mound of
earth on the inner side of the wall, and perhaps a fosse without. According
to his ideas, the four angles of the Roman wall were at the present Multan-
gular Tower in the Gardens of the Museum ; near the end of Jubbergate
(now called Market Street), where it adjoins Coney Street ;* near the bottom
of Aldwark ; and somewhere in the vicinity of the present angle of the city
walls on Lord Mayor's Walk. There is however no dispute as to the Roman
origin of the Multangular Tower and the wall adjoining. From its long
defence against the Norman Conqueror it is certain, that according to the
military science of the time, York was a formidable station, and must have
been completely defended by walls and ditches. Henry IH. granted a patent
to the Lord Mayor to levy certain tolls in specie on certain goods entering
York, which was to be applied to the maintenance of the fortifications of the
city ; and Drake, in his Eboracum, copies at length three writs of mandamus
issued to the Dean and Chapter, the better to enforce the tax.
It is generally supposed that these ramparts were rebuilt in the reign of
Edward I., with a view to rendering the city better able to resist the inroads
of the Scots, whose invasions he had but too much reason to expect. In the
reign of his son and successor Edward 11., the Scots made such inroads into
the country as to penetrate even to the very gates of York, but without
daring to undertake the siege. (See page 187.) In the Fcedera of Rymer
we find the following mandate from Edward HE. to the " Mayor and Bailifis
of the City of York," directing them to repair the fortifications, and provide
* In 1832 the foundations of an angular tower were discovered while making exca-
vations in Market Street (late Jubbergate.)
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 328
ammimitioti for the defence of the place ; and the method of defraying the
expense is characteristic of the lawlessness of the times.
" Since the Scotch, our enemies and rehels, have thought fit to enter our
kingdom in an hostile maimer near Carhsle, with all their power, as we are
certainlj informed," sajs the mandate, " and kiU, hum, destroy, and act other
mischiefs as far as they are able, we have drawn down our army in order, by
God s assistance, to restrain their malice, and to that end turn our steps
towards that country and those enemies.
"We, considering our aforesaid city of York, especially whilst Isabel,
Queen of England, our most, dear mother, our brother and sisters,^ abide in
the same, to be more safely kept and guarded ; least any sudden danger from
our enemies* approach should happen to the said city ; or fear affiright our
mother, brother, and sisters, which Grod avert, for want of sufficient ammu-
nition and guard ; we strictly command and charge you, upon your fSaiths
and allegiance, and on the forfeiture of everything you can forfeit to us, im-
mediately at sight of these presents, without excuse or delay, to inspect and
overlook all your walls, ditches and towers, and ammunition, proper for the
defence of the said city ; taking with you such of our faithful servants as will
be chosen for this purpose ; and to take such order for its defence that no
danger can happen to the city by neglect of such safeguards.
" And we, by these presents, give you full power and authority to distrain
and compel all and singular owners of houses or rents in the said city, or
merchants, or strangers, inhabiting the same, by the seizure of their bodies
or goods, to be aiding towards the security of the walls, bulwarks, or towers,
as you in your own discretion shall think fit to ordain for the making other
useful and necessary works about it ; punishing all those that are found to
contradict or rebel against this order, by imprisonment, or what other methods
you think fit. Study therefore to use such diligence in the execution of the
premises, that we may find it in the effect of your works ; and that we may
have no occasion from your negligence, should danger happen, to take severe
notice of you. Dated at Durham, July 15. A. 1327.
"BY THE KINO."
In 1538 Leland commenced his Itinerary by command of Henry Vlll.,
and in that ancient record is the following account of the state of the fortifi-
cations of York at that period : — " The towne of Yorke standeth by west and
est of Ouse river running through it, but that part that lyeth by est is twice
* Prince John of Eltham, and the Princesses Joan and Elinor.
834 HI8T0BT OF THE CTTT OF TOBK.
as grete in building as the other. Thus goeth the waul from the ripe (or
bank) of Ouse of the est part of the cite of York. Fyrst, a grete towre with
a chaine of jron to cast over the Ouse, than another towre and soe to Bow-
damgate ; from Bowdamgate or bar to Goodramgate or bar x towres ; thens
four towres to Laythorpe a postern gate, and soe by a space of two flite
shottes, the blind and deep water of Fosse coming out of the forest of Galtres,
defended this part of the cite without waules; then to Waumgate three
towres and thens to Fishei^ate, stoppid up sins the communes bumid it yn
the tyme of King Henry the seventh. Thens to the ripe of Fosse have three
towres, and in the three a postern ; and thens over Fosse by a bridge to the
castelle. The west part of the cite is thus ynclosed ; first a turrit, and soe
the waul runneth over the side of the dungeon of the castelle on tl^e west side
of Ouse, right agayne the castelle on the est ripe. The plotte of this castelle
is now called Ould Baile, and the area and ditches of it doe manifestly ap-
peare. Betwixt the beginninge of the first part of this west waulle and
Micklegate be ix towres ; and betwixt it and the ripe agayne of Ouse be xi
towres ; and at this xi towres be a postern gate, and the towre of it is right
agayne the est towre, to draw over the chain on Ouse betwixt them."
The siege of York in 1644 damaged 'the walls very considerably ; and the
three following years were employed in repairing them. Walmgate Bar and
the walls around it had suffered more than any of the rest, on account of the
batteries on Lamel Mill HiU. The Bar was moreover undermined and much
shaken by the explosion. The date of the completion of the repairs of this
part (1648) stands above the arch of the outer Barbican. The walls between
Monk Bar and Layerthorpe Postern were restored in 1666 ; and in 1669,
those near Bootham Bar were repaired at the cost of the city. In 1673 the
walls from Walmgate Bar to their termination at the Red Tower, on the
banks of the Foss, were repaired, but they are now in a state of dilapidation.
About the year 1700 the whole circuit of the walls was paved with brick,
and thrown open to the public as a promenade. It appears that soon after
this date they began to fall into decay, and as no means were taken to pre-
vent the dilapidation, the time did not appear far off when they would be
entirely destroyed. But in the year 1831 the Corporation granted a donation
of £100. towards their restoration, and a considerable sum was raised by
subscription for the same purpose. The length of the wall between North
Street Postern and Micklegate Bar was restored at a cost of iS 1,067. 17s. 6d. ;
and £rom that Bar to Skeldergate Postern, for £1,725. Is. 6d. The walls
also from Fishergate Postern, on the opposite side of the river, a little beyond
Fishergate Bar, were likewise restored. Walmgate Bar and Barbican, and
HISTOBY OF THE CITT OF YORK. 835
the lemainder of the y/bH between that point and Fishergate, were restored
with the sum of Jg500. (increased by several subscriptions) which the Corpo-
ration received from the Great North of England Railway Company, for per-
mission to erect the gateway to their coal depot near North Street Postern.*
Neaily the whole circle of the ancient fortifications is now open to the public,
and forms a most delightful promenade, at once commanding the advantages
of the purest air and most pleasing prospects ; embracing — ^within the walls
— the noble Cathedral in some of its finest points of view ; the picturesque
ruins of St. Mary*s Abbey ; the Roman Multangular Tower ; the classical
building (the Museum) and elegant grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical
Society ; the venerable Ouild-Hall, rising from the water's edge ; and the
Castle and Clifford's Tower, its ancient keep. And beyond the walls the
views are extensive and delightful, embracing the beautiful Ouse, Severus's
Hill, and other interesting objects. The walls completely encompass that
part of the city which is situated on the western side of the river Ouse.
Commencing near the river, at Skeldergate Postern, the promenade is perfect,
and the walk delightful — ^passing Micklegate Bar and the Railway Station —
till we reach again the bank of the river at North Street Postern. Here the
wall terminates with a picturesque old tower, from which a chain was for-
merly attached across the river to Lendal Tower on the opposite side. From
the latter tower the wall may be traced in the Museum gardens, running
towards the entrance lodge ; and from St Leonard's Hospital (adjacent to
the lodge) to the Multangular Tower from whence it takes an easterly direc-
tion past the Manor House or School for the Blind. From hence there is
an interruption, till we arrive at Bootham Bar, from whence it extends in a
south-easterly direction to Monk Bar. This pcirt of the waU is in good
repair, but has no public walk upon it ; a good view of it may be obtained
from Lord Mayor's Walk. From Monk Bar the wall sweeps in a southern
direction to Layerthorpe, and is in good preservation, and open to the
public. From Layerthorpe Postern to the Red Tower, the river Foss and
the marshy ground adjoining it sufficiently protected the city, and rendered
a wall unnecessary As has been already observed, the wall from the Red
" Probably it is not generaUy known," says Mr. WeUbeloved, in one of his notes to the
■nthor of York and itt Vicinity, '* that the last reparation of the waUs originated with
a few persons anxious to walk in the ' old ways/ who formed an Association called ' The
Foot-i>ath Association.' At a meeting of the associators, one member prox>o8ed that the
walk on the walls should be considered as a common foot-path, A resolution to that
eflbot brought the state of the walls undw the notice of the Association, and successful
meaiiures were taken, tenninating in a general and complete repair."
826 HISTOBT OF THE CITY OF TOBK.
Tower to Walmgate Bar is much decayed ; bat from the latter place to its
termination at Fisheigate Postern, it is in good repair, and the promenade
is open.
The dilapidated walls from Walmgate Bar to the Red Tower» a distance
of nearly 350 yards, are about to be restored, and when this is effected, the
whole of the walls of the city will be in a state of perfect repair. Thoa§^
this latter portion of the ramparts is particularly interesting, owing to its
being the oldest part of the time-honoured walls of this ancient city, and to
its having peculiarities which no other portion possesses — ^being built on a
series of rude and irregular arches, on account of the unsound nature of the
soil — an attempt to destroy it has been lately made. The Local Board of
Health Committee, at the instigation, it is said, of an interested individual,
recently recommended that this portion of the walls should be pulled down ;
and the chief reason given by the despoilers for the proposed act of Vandal-
ism, was that their removal would improve the health of the locality (a sheer
fallacy), and that the site of the walls being made available for building pur-
poses, might be sold for from £2,000. to £3,000.
Such a recommendation, and coming from such a quarter, veiy naturally
aroused the feelings of the citizens, who are justly proud of the antiquities
they possess, and anxious carefully to preserve them. The Yorkshire Anti-
quarian Club, and the Yorkshire Architectural Society, and others interested
in the protection of the ancient remains of this city, lost no time in memori-
alizing the Council. The memorial of the latter society was signed by the
Archbishop of York, and no less than eight peers of the realm, besides a
great number of influential gentlemen connected with the city and county.
At the Quarterly Meeting of the City Council, on Monday, February 12th,
1855 — a day to be held memorable by the local antiquarian — ^these memo-
rials were read, and the whole subject of the proposed act of desecration was
ably discussed. Honour to those members of the Council who supported the
resolution, that the minutes of the Board of Health Committee, recommending
the removal of the walls, be not confirmed, but that the walls be repaired and
retained, provided their restoration can be effected by public subscription.
Honour to Mr. Alderman Leeman, and the other gentlemen who ably pointed
out the great value of these relics of antiquity, and justly contended that if
they were allowed to be removed, the demolition of the other portions of the
walls might soon follow.
To the delight of aU the lovers of antiquities in the city aud county, that
spirit of Vandalism, which at former periods sanctioned the destruction of the
beautiful ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary, even by allowing its elegantly
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 827
carved stone- work to be burnt into lime ; that same spirit which had con-
templated the remoTal of Clifford's Tower, and the cutting down of the
magnificent trees on the New Walk ; and which would now sweep away these
venerated ramparts, was suppressed at the above-mentioned meeting by a
majority of twenty-two. Those who voted for the retention of the walls were
Mr. Aid. Leeman, Mr. Aid. Meek, Mr. Aid. Wood, Mr. Aid. Evers, Mr. Aid.
Richardson, the Sheriff, Messrs. Parkinson, Woollens, E. K Anderson, G.
Steward, Clark, BeU, Craven, Shilleto, Hunt, Watkinson, Hands, E. Calvert,
Wilkinson, Husband, E. AUen, Douglas, Smith, Scholefield, Clarke, John
Meek, Lambert, Yallow, and J. Allen. And the parties in favour of the
demolition of the walls were Mr. Aid. Seymour, Mr. Aid. Rowntree, Messrs.
F. Calvert, ^ilberforce, Thompson, Scott, and Mann. It was then agreed
that a subscription should be at once entered into, in order that the vote
which had been come to might be carried out, and the walls repaired.
The circumference of the ramparts of iTork, according to Drake, from a
survey made in August, 1665, is two miles, three furlongs, and ninety-six
yards (an extent little inferior to that of the old waUs of London, which
was only three miles), made up of the following distances between the prin-
cipal entrances : —
PERCHES.
Bed Tower to Walmgate Bar 60
Thence to Hsfaergate Postern .... 99
Thence to Castlegate Postern .... 58
Thence to Skeldergate Postern . . 34
Thence to Micklegate Bar 186
Thence to North Street Postern . . 140
Thence to Bootham Bar 86
The fortified walls round York, and those at Chester, are the only remains
of this kind of military architecture on so extensive a scale in the kingdom.
The Corporation of York are invested with an annual income for the main-
tenance of the ramparts, and at Chester a specific duty on certain merchandise
is levied for a similar purpose. Professor Phillips, in speaking of York and
its ramparts, says, ** Linumerable battle plains surround her Roman camp ;
and from her walls we may see three decisive fields — ^where Hardrada fell at
Stamford Bridge, and Clifford died at Towton Dale, and Rupert fled from
Marston Moor — ^sixteen centuries of historical renown dignify the winding
streets and narrow pavements by which we reach the feudal walls, the Bene-
dictine Abbey, the Northumbrian Church, the camp of the victorious Legion."'^'
* Phillip's Bivers and Mountains of Yorkshire.
PEBCHES.
Brought forward .... 618
Bootham Bar to Monk Bar 116
Thence to Layerthorpe Bridge .... 66
Thence to the Bed Tower 80
Total * 875
828 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
■
The entrances into the city of York are by four principal Gates or Bars,
Tjz., Micklegate Bar on the south-west, Bootham Bar on the north-west,
Monk Bar on the north-east, and Walmgate Bar on the south-east There
are also three smaller entrances thus distinguished — Fishergate Bar, Victoria
Bar, and Fishergate Postern. There were formerly posterns at Skeldergate,
Castlegate, North Street, and Layerthorpe.
Micklegate Bar the principal gate and chief entrance of the city from the
south is the most magnificent, and previous to the destruction of the Bar-
bican or out work, in 1826, must have made a yery imposing and venerable
appearance. It is a square tower with a fine circular arch, and embattled
turrets at the angles. Each of these turrets are adorned with a stone figure
in a menacing attitude. Drake conceived that the centre arch was Roman,
and strenuously maintained his opinion, in which he was supported by the
Earl of Burlington ; but James Essex, the Architect, contradicted this opi-
nion ; and Sir Heniy C. Englefield in a paper read before the Society of
Antiquaries, in 1780, satisflEictorily points out the identity between the style
of architecture displayed in this Bar, and that of several undisputed Saxon
and Norman edifices ; so that it is now generally agreed, that so far from the
arch being a Roman erection, it is most likely a Norman work. The lower
parts of the structure are built of a grey stone of veiy coarse grit, whilst the
upper walls and turrets are constructed of a fine white limestone, and the
difference of style, as well as of materials, shows that the work is of two dif-
ferent periods. Above the gate is a shield of arms, suspended from a garter
of Sir John Lister Kaye, who was Lord Mayor in 1737, and beneath is the
inscription, now nearly defaced, " Renovata a.d. mdccxxxyh." Higher up
on the building are the royal arms of Old France and England, quarterly,
between those of the city of York, all emblazoned in colours. Over each
shield is a smaU Gothic canopy, and above the royal arms is a helmet crested
vdth a Uan passant gardant, the whole gilt. These arms and crest were
painted and gild anew in 1827, and are now much in want of similar treat-
ment. On the city side are the arms of France and England quarterly.*
The two small doors which opened from the lateral turrets upon the battle-
ments of the Barbican, are stiU visible, and since the alterations in 1826»
they have had a very singular appearance. Drake, writing in 1786, says of
this entrance, ** The Bar is strengthened by an outer gate, which had a massy
iron chain that went across, then a portcullis, and lastly a mighty strong
double wooden gate, which closed in every night at the usual hour. It has
* Arohflelogia, vol. vi, p. lOi.
HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 329
the character altogether, as to auoient fortification, to be as uoble and august
a port as most in Europe." Since Drake^s time various alterations and mu-
tilations have occurred in this venerable pile. The outer gate, the massy
chain, and the portcullis, which was a large wooden grate, with iron spikes
at the bottom, have all disappeared. Sir Walter Scott is reported to have
said that if walking from Edinburgh to York would induce the Corporation
to preserve the harbioan, he would gladly undertake the journey.
" It appears by a record in the Pipe Office," writes Mr. Drake, ** that one
Benedict Fitz-Engelram gave half a mark for license to build a certain house
upon this bar, and sixpence annual rent for having it hereditary, the 8th of
Bichard I. (1197.) But this does not ascertain the age of the present struc-
ture. Yet I observe the fteurs de lUia the royal arms are not confined to the
number of three, which puts it out of doubt that they were placed there
before the time of Henry V. ; who was the first that gave that particular
number in his bearing." 'The apartments in the tower of this, as well as
those of Monk Bar and Walmgate Bar, are now inhabited by some of the
police of the city, and their &milies. The tower of Bootham Bar is un-
occupied.
In 1754 the gate on the west side of this bar was erected for the greater
safety of foot passengers. The gateway on the east side of it was part of the
alteration of 1896. The top of this tower is covered with lead, and commands
a most interesting prospect of the surrounding country. The ascent to the
tower, and to the walls a^oining it, is by a double flight of stone steps on
both sides of the street. This was the bar upon which it was customaiy to
place the heads of state criminals after execution.
Bootham Bar, the entrance from the north, is an ancient structure, chiefly
built of the grit stone generally used by the Romans, and has a circular arch
similar to Micklegate Bar. ** The structure of this port," says Drake, ** is
very ancient, being almost wholly built of grit, but wanting that symmetiy
so very conspicuous in Micklegate Bar. It is certainly Gothic, though built
of Roman materials. The inside was rebuilt with free stone in 1719." The
Barbican was removed in 1881, and the whole structure narrowly escaped
removal ; the interference of the citizens, in public meeting assembled on the
16th of February, 1883, alone preserved the venerable relic. A sum of £800.
was raised by subscription (the Corporation gave JSIOO., provided the inhabi-
tants would raise £20Q.\ and the exterior and interior was substantially
repaired. At the same time the street at the west side of the bar was
widened, and a new and excellent approach to the city formed, caUed St. Leo-
nard's Place. The barbican had embattled turrets at the angles. On the
3 u
830 HI8TOST OF THE CITT OF TOBK.
top of the outer front of the tower are the remains of three stone figures,
similar to those on Mickl^[ate Bar. Previouslj to the reparations in 1881,
there was in the inner front, fiEunng the dtj, a large niche orer the arch,
\\hich contained a stone figure of a King, much mutilated. By some it was
supposed to represent Ehrauc, the presumed founder of the city ; but it was
evidently of more modem costume, and was most probably a statue of King
James I. There are arohes on each side of the gate for foot passengers,
and the portcullis still retains its ancient position over the outer arch.
Monk Bar, which forms the approach from Scarborough, Malton, and the
vHst, is a stately gate, with a circular arch. The foundation is of grit stone,
and on the exterior of the tower front are the arms of Old France quartered
with those of England ; which circumstance bespeaks its antiquity. Above
the shield is a mutilated helmet beneath a Grothic canopy; and on the battle-
ments of the turrets are stone figures in a menacing posture. The doors and
barbican were removed in 1815, but the ancient portcullis is still remaining.
Mr. Britton considers this gate as probably the most curious and perfect
specimen of this sort of architecture in the kingdom; and therefore veiy in-
teresting to the antiquary and architect'*' Monk Bar is the loftiest of the
four, and is a beautiful specimen of the castellated architecture which pre-
vailed in the fourteenth centuiy. This bar, we are told by Drake, was for-
merly made use of as a prison for freemen of the city ; and the two stories
of vaulted chambers in the tower were formerly used for that purpose. The
gateway roof is groined, and the city front displays several windows with
mullions and plain arched heads. There is a thoroughfare for foot pas-
sengers on each side of the bar, of modem erection. The prospect of the
surrounding country from the top of the tower is truly delightful.
Walmgate Bar, situated at the end of Walmgate, is the entrance into York
from Beverley, Hull, &c., and is supposed to derive its name, by corrupt pro-
nunciation, from the great Roman road, called Watling Street This bar
still retains its barbican and portcullis, as well as a great portion of the old
oak door and wicket of the main gateway, and is now a fiedthful representa-
tion of the defences placed near the principal entrances of a fortified town in
the middle ages. It is built in the same manner as the others, being square,
with embattled turrets at the angles. Towards the foundation are some large
blocks of grit ; but the arches, &c,, are modem, having undergone a thorough
repair in 1648, after this gate had been almost demolished by the Pariiament-
arian army during the civil war of that period.
• York Cathedral, p. 87.
BISTORT OF THE CITY OF YOBK. 331
The main building of the bar belongs to the time of Edward I. ; and the
barbican, which has a pointed arch, to the time of Edward III. Over the
outer gateway are the arms of Henry V., and an inscription denoting that
the bar and barbican was restored by the Corporation of York, a.d. 1840,
Sir William Stephenson Clark, knight, being Lord Mayor; and oyer the
gate of the barbican are the City Arms, and the date ** 1648," shewing the
time of its repair after the siege of 1644. The cost of the restoration
was JS500. Attached to the city front is an extraneous erection of wood
and plaster of two stories. The lower story is supported by two Tuscan
columns ; the front of the first story is also adorned with two columns of
the same order ; and the second has Ionic pillars, withan^ architraye and
cornice.
Fiskergate Bar, which stands at the end of St. George Street, was walled
up from the time of Henry VTI. to the month of October, 1827, when, in
consequence of the formation of the new market for cattle on the outside of
this part of the walls, it was again opened. It consists of a plain centre arch,
with two narrow arches for foot passengers. There is no tower over the
gate, and the arch is in a great measure new. Leland tells us that this bar
was burnt in the time of Henry VII. by the peasantry of Yorkshire, who took
the city, and would have beheaded Sir Richard Yorke, then Lord Mayor,
and that it was then blocked up.
Over this gateway on each side are sculptures and inscriptions. On the
exterior of the bar is one representing Sir William Todd, merchant, who was
a great benefactor to the reparation of the walls, on which is the following
inscription : « A. Dm. CCCCo. LXXXVII. S'. Willm. Tod, knyght & mair
jou — ates some tyme was schyriffe did this cost himself." Over this in-
.scription was formerly a piece of rude sculpture, representing a senator in
his robes, and a female kneeling by him. The other inscription is on the
city side, and placed imder the arms of the city. It is as follows : '' A°.
DOMINE M. CCCC. LXXXVH. Sir WiUiam Tod knight L mayre
this wal was mayde in his dayes IX yerdys."
Fiskergate Postern, the only one of the old posterns now remaining, is
situated at the termination of the walls in Fishergate, and is a solid square
stone building with a tiled roof. It was erected at the beginning of the 16th
centuiy, and is singular for its beauty and exactness of symmetry, as well as
an admirable specimen of the species of defence placed near small gates and
sally ports. The only openings in the walls towards the exterior are two
narrow windows immediately beneath the roof, which is made as far as pos-
sible to defend them. From these eleyated windows boiling oil, pitch, stones,
iiS'2 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
and every description of deadly missile, were showered down upon the be-
siegers near the gate. It has a low pointed arched footway, and was so
contrived with a view to prevent ingress except in a stooping attitude, which
would, of course, give the defenders an advantage. Adjoining to this gate-
way arc some remains of Roman masonry, principally arches of grit stone.
Skddergate Postern formerly stood on the opposite side of the river, but
the building was removed in 1808. This postern has been in some measure
replaced by a new circular arch over the road leading to the city gaol, erected
in 1881. There is a ferry boat kept near the site of this postern, which
opens a communication with the New Walk. This ferry is rented from the
Corporation by a person whose duty it is to be constantly in attendance
during the day.
North Street Postern y at the termination of the walls at North Street, has
been replaced by a new and handsome arch for carriages, and two side arches
for foot passengers, erected in 1840, by the Great North of England Railway
Company. For permission to build this entrance and obtain a road into
North Street, the Railway company paid the Corporation £500., which sum
has been expended in restoring Walmgate Bar and barbican. The tower of
North Street Postern, which is still in existence, was the connecting link
between the west and east lines of fortification. Its form is circular, and it
was used for the double purpose of a postern and a watch tower for the river.
There is a ferry at this postern, which communicates with the opposite bank
of the river, and the person who rents it from the Corporation rosides in the
ancient tower.
Lendal Tower stands on the opposite side of the river, and as has been
8he¥m by the quotation from Leland at a preceding page, when the fortifications
of the city wero complete, a strong iron chain passed across the river from
each of these towers.* In the directions issued by the Corporation in 1569,
when they expected a siege by the robcl Earls, '' all boats, pinks, and lighters,*'
aro ordered to range themselves within this chain. Sir Thomas Widdrington
mentions a postern at Lendal, but no remains of any such building are now
to be seen.
« Lendal Tower was formerly converted into a warehouse, and in 1682 it was
thoroughly repaired, and an engine was placed in it for the purpose of supplying Uie
inhabitants with water. In 18^0 the engine was placed in a new engine house; and in
1840 the waterworks wore altogether removed to Acomh Landing. This tower was
raised by the late Waterworks Company, and is considerably higher than that on the
opposite side, being above fifty-eight feet above the le\'el of the ground. It is still in
the possession of the present Waterworks Company, l)ut is at present occupied as an
organ manufiictory.
HI8TOBT OF THE CITY OF YOBK. 388
The ancient Castle or Keep on Baile Hill, was intended to serve a some-
what similar purpose as a corresponding station to Clifford's Tower, on the
west hank of the river.
Victoria Bar is the name given to the arch through the walls from Bishop-
hill to Clementhorpe, which was erected hy subscription in 1888. On
opening the wall a small gateway was found to have been anciently in the
same place.
Castlegate Postern, which stood veiy near the ruins of Clifford's Tower, and
in the direct road to the viUi^e of Fulfbrd, possessed no peculiar feature. It
was taken down in May, 18^6, on commencing the new works at the gaol.
Mr. Davies, in one of his interesting lectures at the York Institute, told us,
that in the garden of some cottages close to this postern '' there once was
kept that instrument of punishment — ^the ducking stool — ^which was brought
into requisition for the purpose of punishing females who might be called com-
mon scolds, this being effected by placing them in the stool, and plunging
them three times overhead in the river. This custom was not disused until
about 100 years ago ; but now we live in more gallant times,'* he continued,
" when any one might indulge their loquacity vrith impunity."'*'
Layerthorpe Postern was situated at the end of Layerthorpe Bridge, with
the river Foss running in front. It was defended by a portcuUis, and when
the city was in a fortified state, was an important and well guarded post. It
was removed when the present bridge over the Foss at this point was erected
in 1829, in the place of the old and inconvenient arches, which previously
stood here.
The extensive and beautiful Tudor arch, through which the railway enters
• The ptmislitnent of tbe Cueking or Duehing Stool, or TumbreU, waa anciently in-
dieted upon persons for minor tranfigreaaions. The colprit was placed in a stool or ohair,
and emerged overhead and ears, in stercore, in some muddy or stinking pond. The
Barrow laws consign men to the pillory, and women to the cuoldng stool or tnmbrell.
These laws particularly refer to the frauds committed by brewers and bakers, and orders
jnatioe to be done upon them by sabjeeting them to the discipline of the encking stool
for their third offence. In the ** Aotes Marie " it is expressly provided " that the women
pertarbatooris for skafrie of money or vtherwyse, salbe takin and put vpone the cokstules
of eorie burgh or towne." In the Saxon tongue cuck, or guckf signifies to scold or brawl,
taken from the bird cuckoo, or gUokoo ; and ing in that language signifies water. In
the north of England the common people pronounce it ducking -Btool, which perhaps may
have sprung from the Belgie or Teutonic duekenf to dive under water. This machine,
which has also been called the trebucket or trap-door, was exhibited in terrorem to keep
that nnmly member, the female tongue, in due subjection, but many instances occur of
hardy females, who have undauntedly braved the punishment rather than surrender the
invaluaUe privilege whieh a woman holds most dear.
334 raSTOBT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
the city, was erected in 1840, and from the walls near this arch may he seen,
on the outside, the original depth of the scarp and counter scarp, in other
words, of the ditch which defended the hase of the wall. This is the only
place where these features of the circumyallation are preserved entire.
Besides these bars and posterns, there were at different distances in the
walls several small rooms or ce&s, and numerous towers, a few of which yet
remain. The most remarkable of these is called the MuUangtdar Tower, in
the gardens of the Museum. This interesting relic of the Roman era con-
sists of a portion of the wall of a large tower, having ten sides of a nearly
regular thirteen sided figure, forming nine obtuse angles, whence it derires
its name. Antiquarians nearly all agree that this tower and the wall ad-
joining it, is a portion of the fortifications of the Roman station of Ebor-
acum ; and though built probably about the middle of the third century
of the Christian era, they are in a remarkably good state of preservation,
considering the danger to which they have been exposed amidst the various
vicissitudes which the city of York has experienced during the long and
often much troubled period that has elapsed since Britain was abandoned
by the Romans.
Dr. Lister, in describing these remains to the Royal Society, says, ** Care-
fully viewing the antiquities of York, the dwelling of at least two of the
Roman Emperors — Severus and Constantius — ^I found part of a wall yet
standing, which is undoubtedly of that time. It is the south wall of the Mint
Yard, and consists of a multangular tower, which did lead to Bootham Bar,
and part of a wall which ran the length of Coning Street, as he who shall
attentively view it on both sides may discern. The outside to the river is
faced with a very small saaum quadratum of about four inches thick, and laid
in levels like our modem brickwork. The length of the stones is not ob-
served, but they are as they fell out, in hewing. From the foundation twenty
courses of these small squared stones are laid, and over them five courses of
Roman bricks. These bricks are placed some lengthways, some endways in
the walls, and were called lateres dicUoni ; after these five courses of brick,
other twenty-two courses of small square stones, as before described, are laid,
which raise the wall some feet higher, and then five more courses of the same
Roman bricks; beyond which the wall is imperfect, and capped with modem
building. In all this height there is not any casement or loop-hole, but one
entire and uniform wall ; from which we may infer that this wall was built
some courses higher, after the same order. The bricks were to be as
thoroughs, or as it were so many new foundations, to that which was to be
superstructed, and to bind the two sides firmly together ; for the wall itself
/
HISTORT OF THE CITY OF YOBK. 835
is only faced with small square stone, and the middle thereof filled with
mortar and pehble/*'(<
The exterior of the tower exhibits the rude repairs it has received in later
times, and the portion may be plainly discerned, which was raised upon it
when it was made part of the wall of York in the middle ages. The masonry
of the interior of the tower is remarkably l&esh and perfect, owing to its
having been concealed for many ages by an accumulation of soU, which has
only recently been removed. A small portion of a wall is remaining, which
appears to have divided the tower into two equal portions. The diameter of
the whole interior at the base or floor, is about 83^ feet. The lower com-
partments had a mortar floor laid upon sand, and having no light but from the
entrance, Mr. WeUbeloved thinks that they may have been used as depositories
of stores or arms. There seems to have been a timber floor at the height of
about five feet above this, and a third floor about nine feet higher up. These
upper apartments had each a narrow window or aperture, so placed as to
enable those within to observe what was passing without on the line of each
wall ; and this circumstances leads to the supposition that they had been
used as guard rooms. The opening of these apertures externally was not
more than six inches in width, but within it expanded to about five feet.
The Roman wall directs its course £rom the angle tower in a north easterly
direction, and has been traced as far as Bootham Bar, where the foundations
and ' some interesting fragments of the old Roman gate were discovered.
Between the Multangular Tower and the ancient gate, remains of two wall
towers and one entire small chamber have been found buried with the modem
wall of the city. These towers,' and the waU connected with them, were
removed when the new entrance into the city through St. Leonard's Place
was formed. The other Roman wall ran from the angle tower in the direction
of Lendal and Coney Street.
** The Multangular Tower with the wall adjoining it," writes Mr. Well-
beloved, " is the only portion of the fortifications of Eburacum or Roman
York, existing above ground. But in excavating for sewers and other pur-
poses, various portions of the foundations of such fortifications have been
found ; by means of which the exact extent of one side, and the direction of
two other sides of the Roman Station have been satisfactorily ascertained.
No distinct traces of a fourth side have yet been found, or if found, noticed
by any antiquary. It can only be conjectured that it nearly coincided with
• Dr. Langwiih, who tells us that this method of building with brick and stone was
originally African, obserres that as Severas was an African hj birth, it is highly probable
that it was introduced here by that Emperor.
330 HI8T0BY OF THE CITT OF YORK.
the rampart and wall coimected with Monk Bar and Layerthorpe Bridge.
If this conjecture^ justified by what is certainly known of the three other
walls of the Roman station, be adopted, it appears that Roman York occupied
comparatiyely a small portion of the site of modem York, and that it was
entirely on the north side of the river Ouse : the south side being occupied,
as recent discoveries have clearly shown, by extensive baths, temples, villas,
and places of burial ; on the road leading from Eburacum to Calcaiia (Tad-
caster), the next station towards the south.
The same learned antiquary places the Roman bridge over the Ouse higher
up the river than the present one. He thinks that it was thrown across from
about St. Helen's Square to Tanner Row.
For ages the Roman Multangidar Tower remained in a neglected state,
until it came into the hands of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society in 1826 ;
and when the accumulation of rubbish, which had been collected for oen^
turies, was cleared away, several English coins of various dates were dis-
covered near the surface, while many Roman coins were found in the bottom.
And if any doubt existed of its Roman origin, it has been entirely removed
by the discovery of Roman legionary inscriptions on some stones in the lower
courses of the interior. Sir H. C. Englefield is the only person who has
disputed the Roman origin of this tower, but he has not been so successful in
establishing his opinion in this case as in that of the arch of Micklogate Bar.
The Bed Tower y so called from having been chiefly built of red brick, is an
erection of great antiquity. It is situated on the south bank of the river,
and there is no doubt of its having originally been a portion of the fortifioar
tions of the city, for it is connected with Walmgate Bar by a continuation of
the bar walls up to it. This tower, in the time of the Romans, commanded
a grand bay, the basin or dock of which was more than a mile in circum-
ference, and thus completed the protection of the city on that side. It,
however, has undergone so many alterations, and been devoted to such a
variety of uses, that its original features are gone. Still the foundations are
of the same stone as the bar walls, and stone loopholes the same as those in
the bar walls are remaining. The brick work is composed of bricks of various
ages and manufacture — ^the oldest being broader and thinner than any of the
others, and not unlike those which appear mixed with the stone work of the
Roman Multangular Tower. The present appearance of this ancient struc-
ture conveys but a very imperfect idea of the once stately square tower,
through the loopholes of which the engines of war were pointed to protect
the navy of the port of York from hostile attack. In modem times the Red
Tower was used as a manufactoiy of brimstone (from which oircumstanoe
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 837
it is sometimes called the Brimstone House), and that has aggravated the
dilapidations of time. Where the brick walls are perfect they are about four
feet thick. The port-holes are now mostly filled up, and the building is at
present used as a* pig-stye.
Lendal Tower has been aLready noticed. Besides the towers of the city
ramparts, there are the remains of two other towers which belonged to the
walls of St. Mary's Abbey. One of these, caUed St. Mary's Tower, is situated
in Bootham at the end of the street called Marygate, and was blown up by a
mine during the siege of York (See page 24S) ; and the other stands at the
lower end of Marygate on the bank of the river. Of the small rooms or
cells in the ramparts mentioned above, there are several still remaining.
In the south-east comer of the city, and just within the walls, is a large
mound, the origin of which is not known. In ancient deeds it is called
Vettis BaUium, or Old Bayle, signifying a place of security; and probably
forms the platform, as Leland and Camden suppose, of an ancient ruined
Castle. The mound, which is now called Old Baile HiU, is ornamented
with a small plantation of trees, and from its summit is a fine view of York,
and of the rich country by which it is surrounded.
The general opinion of historians is that there was a Castle on this arti-
ficial tumulus in the time of the Saxons, and that William the Conqueror
erected upon it a tower to serve as the chief garrison for that part of the city
not lying on the same side as the Castle. It is known to have been, at a
subsequent period, a prison belonging to the Archbishops, who possessed the
jurisdiction of the places now called BiahophiU, but the time of the origin
and cessation of their authority in this part of the city is not known. The
incorporation of their peculiar here with the rest of the city must have been
later than 1326, for in that year a cause was tried before Queen Isabel,
between the Archbishop, William de Melton, and the citizens, to settle a dis-
pute whether the Archbishop, as Lord of the Manor, was not bound to
preserve the fortifications hereabouts. The verdict affirmed his liability.
All traces of the Castle upon this hill have long since disappeared. Imme-
diately opposite the Old Baile HiU on the other side of the Ouse is a similar
mound, upon which stands the ruins of CUfiTord's Tower, of which more anon.
The Castle. — ^According to Drake, the historian of York, there was a
Castle in this city long before the Conquest, and its supposed site is the Old
BaHe HiU; but that fortress has now disappeared, and the present Castle was,
as our author conjectures, built on a Roman foundation. It was erected by
the Conqueror, near the confluence of the Foss and the Ouse, and made of
great strength, so as to serve for the chief Norman garrison in Northimibria,
2 X
338 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOBK.
and to keep the people in awe of their tyrant. It continued in the hands of
the Crown for many subsequent reigns, and was used as the official residence
of the High Sheriffs of Yorkshire in succession, as the Mansion House is
now the residence of each successive Lord Mayor. It was also used as a
store house for the revenues and munitions of the Crown in the northeni
counties, and there was a Constable of the Castle whose duty it was solely to
attend to this department. This fortress was entirely surrounded by a deep
moat, the course of which may yet be clearly traced, the buildings being thus
rendered inaccessible except by two draw-bridges. The principal gate or
entrance from the county, down to the early part of the ^t centuiy, was on
the east side, near the Castle MiUs ; and the cily entrance was on the north
side. A small arch under the walls in front of the latter gate, where the
arms of the city were placed, shewed the spot where the ancient draw-bridge
was erected ; whilst the bridge, gate, towers, and saUy port, on the eastern side,
have all been cleared away. The remains of the towers and sally port were
removed about the beginning of this century ; at which time the moat on
that side of the Castle, which had formerly been supplied with water from the
liver Foss, was filled up, and k wall built, surmounted with iron palisades, in
lieu of it. About the time of Richard m. the fortress had fallen veiy much
into decay, and was then very extensively repaired. Leland, however, in the
reign of Henry VIII., found it in a very ruinous condition, and says of it,
** The area of this Castle is. no very great quantitie — ^ther be five ruinous
towers in it." These towers, however, presented a very interesting and pic-
turesque appearance.
Sir Thomas Widdrington, in his MSS., says, " That part of the Castle
which remains of the old foundation appears to be only the gate-house to the
old building, by the proportion of the gates yet showing themselves in the
east side, towards Fishergate Postern, where the great door is walled up, and
where the main building of the Castle was, as is manifest by the foundations
of walls all over the said place, if it be tried with the spade or hack." A^r
it ceased to be a military post, it was converted into a County Prison ; and
in 1701, being in a very dilapidated condition, the part now called the OM
Buildings was erected chiefly with stone brought from the ruins of St. Maiy s
Abbey. Other additions were at the same time made, in pursuance of an
Act of Parliament, which levied a tax of threepence in the pound on the
county to defray the expenses.
Within the walls of the Castle stands the beautiful ruin called Cl^ord^s
Tower, which is considered one of the most graceful specimens of medisBval
architecture in the city. It stands on a lofty mound of earth, which, at some
HISTOBY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 330
remote periodi has been thrown up by immense labour. This tumulus and
ruin exactly correspond with Old Baile Hill on the opposite side of the river.
Drake supposes that the mound was cast up by the Romans, and that a
tower was standing on it during their residence in this city. The present
tower was erected by William the Conqueror when he built the Castle, and
was intended for the '' Donjon Keep," that is, the central and strongest part
of the* fortress. Dr. King, in his Munimenta Antiqua, thinks that it was
originally built by the Conqueror, and that it is one of the Castles mentioned
in Stowe's Annals as built in 1068 ; " For," says he, " Norman Castles were
built on high artificial mounds, and nearly covered the whole of the summit.
The Castles built by the Saxons," he continues, " were on high mounds, or
ancient barrows, and had a great plain or area surrounding them."
There is no record of this tower being rebuilt, but the architecture bears
evident marks of a date much later than the reign of the Norman Conqueror.
The present structure is certainly not older than the time of Edward I., and
Mr. Biitton thinks it was probably erected in the reign of his warlike suc-
cessor Edward JH,^ Though this was the keep of the Castle, it was totally
distinct from it, and was completely separated from it by a moat, which sur-
rounded it The entrance to the tower, however, was from the Castle by
means of a drawbridge, and a flight of steps up the side of the mount ; but
these steps were removed some years ago to repair the wall near the spot.
This fortress derives its name from the circumstance of a member of the
noble and once powerful £unily of Clifford having been appointed its first
governor by the Conqueror. Sir Thomas Widdrington remarks, that the
Lords Clifford were very anciently called casteleyns, wardens, or keepers of
the tower. Though the Lord Mayor certainly cannot have any superior in
dignify to him within the walls of the city, except the King himself or the
presumptive heir to the English crown, yet the Clifford family have repeat-
edly claimed a right of carrying the city's sword before the King when he
visited York. When Leland was at York, the tower, drawbridge, &c., were
in ruins. " The Arx (or Keep) is all in ruine," he says, " and the roote of
the hille that it standeth on is environed with an arme derived out of
Fosse-Water." In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the Corporation of York
addressed two petitions to the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, and to Clifford,
Earl of Northumberland, praying that measures might be taken for pre-
venting the keeper of the Castle from injuring the tower and converting its
stone into lime, inasmuch as they deemed it to be of surpassing beauty and
« Fiotoresque Antiquities of English Cities, p. 5.
340 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
imparting more ornament to the city than anything else beside, save the
Minster. These petitions had their due effect, and the work of demolition
was stopped ; but it remained in an imtenable state until the commencement
of the war between Charles I. and the Parliament, when Drake says, " By
the direction of Henry, then Earl of Cumberland, Lord Lieutenant of the
northern parts, and Governor of York, this tower was repaired; a considerable
additional square building put to it, on that side next the Castle, on which,
over the gate, in stone work, are placed the Royal Arms and those of the
Cliffords, viz. chequee, a fess, ensigned with an Earl's coronet, supported by
two wivems, and this motto — Desormais." These arms, Ac, may still be
seen over the gate.
After being thoroughly repaired, a platform was constructed on the top,
on which were mounted two demiculverins and a raker, and a garrison was
appointed to defend it. During the siege of the city in 1644, this garrison
was under the command of Sir Francis Cobb, who succeeded to the office
of Governor of the city at the death of Henry, the last Earl of Cumberland.
When the city came into the hands of the Parliamentarians, the Castle was
entirely dismantled, with the exception of this tower, in which, according to
a resolution in the House of Commons, dated 26th of February, 1646, a de-
tachment of sixty infantry soldiers were stationed, " Resolved that Clifford's
Tower (York) be kept a garrison with three score foot in it." The command
was then given to the Lord Mayor of York, in whose hands it continued till
1688, when Sir John Reresby was made keeper by Charles IT. It was how-
ever blown up the following year by the ignition of the mageizine, and reduced
to its present condition. The circumstance is thus related in an old MSS.
diary of those times : — " About ten o'clock on the night of St. George's day,
April 23rd, 1684, happened a most dreadful fire within the tower called Clif-
ford's Tower, which consumed to ashes all the interior thereof, leaving
standing only the outshell of the walls of the tower, without other harm to
the city, save one man slain by the fall of a piece of timber, blown up by the
force of the flames, or rather by some powder therein. It was generally
thought a wilful act, the soldiers not suffering the citizens to enter tiU it was
too late ; and what made it more suspicious was, the gunner had got out all
his goods before it was discovered." " Whether this was done accidentally
or on purpose," says Drake, ** is disputable ; it was observed that the officers
and soldiers of the garrison had removed all their best things before ; and it
was a common toast in the city to drink to the Demolishing of the Minced
Pye" The ruin and adjacent grounds then passed into private hands, and
in 1826 they were purchased by the cotmty magistrates, with oth^r property
HISTOBY OF THE CITY OF YOBK. 841
in the immediate neighbourhood, to enlarge the County Oaol, for Jg8,800. ;
of which sum JBdOO. was the price of the ruins.
At that time it was proposed bj some VandcUs or Goths to destroy the ruin,
and level the mound with the surrounding ground, but the good taste of the
majority of the magistracy of the county rejected such an act, and instead of
so doing, they, much to their credit, erected around it a strong stone wall,
sloping with the declivity of the mound, which binds the base of the entire
tumulus, and will protect it for some centuries. One of the county magis-
tracy, G. Strickland, Esq., of Hildenby, in a pamphlet published at that time,
called Reasons for notpulUng down Clifford's Tower , &c., very truly observed,
« that many persons are too apt to despise or to pass over in neglect those
objects which are habitually presented to them, and hold in veneration such
only as are distant, and with which they are comparatively little acquainted.
Upon this principle we must account for the fact of so many of our country-
men travelling to distant r^ons, and returning home, expressing wonder,
astonishment, and delight, at the ruins, mountains, and valleys, which they
have seen, while they remain ignorant of the merits of their own countxy,
insensible to its beauties, and affecting to despise its remains of antiquity.
" Such persons can see a thousand charms in every broken arch, and in
every ruin near the Tiber, however small the remnant — ^while they can find
nothing to admire upon the banks of the Thames, or of the Ouse — while they
load with epithets of reproach and execration, the names of Alaric, the leader
of the Goths, and of Genseric, the King of the Vandals, and call their myriads
of followers barbarians — because the one overran Greece, and plundered and
destroyed the public buildings and works of art at Athens, and Corinth, and
Sparta; and the other, after taking Rome, laid waste the city, and reduced
to ruins its temples and its bridges — ^in England, with unsparing hand, would
level to the ground our best remains of ancient buildings ; which have re-
sisted the destructive efforts of time, and for ages been held up to the
admiration of all persons of education and taste, to make a foundation for a
gaol or a manufactory.
" That Clifford's Tower is an object not unworthy of some share of respect
and of care, may perhaps be made evident by a comparison between it and
some of those remains of similar form, which, because they are in Italy, are
held sacred, and are preserved from destruction. Of this kind is the Castle
of St. Angelo, in Rome (anciently the Mausoleum of Adrian.) Of a similar
form is the sepulchre of the Plautian family, upon the banks of the Tiverone
and the £eur-fkmed tomb of Cecilia Metella. Excepting the first, each of
these is greatly inferior in size to Clifford's Tower, and all inferior in deva-
342 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOBK.
tion of site and picturesque beautj." Thus we have seen that this ancient
tower has had many escapes, having been burnt and exposed to the attacks
of war, " but still it stood," says Mr. Davies, ** its walls bidding defiance to
age, nor upon them ' Time writes no wrinkle * with his antique hand."
The plan of this beautiful specimen of feudal grandeur consists of four s^-
ments of circles joined together ; the largest diameter, from periphery to
periphery, being sixty-four feet, and the shortest, from intersection to inter-
section, being forty-five feet. The waUs are between nine and ten feet thick.'i'
The mound is mounted by a flight of steps, and the ruin is entered through
the modem square tower mentioned before, over which are the arms of the
Clifford family. On the left of the entrance are the remains of a winding
staircase, beyond which was the original entrance ; of the latter the remains
of a ruined archway may still be seen, and near it may be traced the grooves
of a portcullis, and other requisites for offence and defence.
In the interior of the ruin is a draw-well of excellent water, about sixty
feet deep, which in Drake s time was choked up, but is now open and well
preserved. The area of the ground floor has a singular but venerable aspect.
In the centre is a large walnut tree and a few small shrubs, which being
surrounded with the massy but desolate looking walls of the ruins, have a
curious but picturesque appearance. Proceeding round the interior of the
ground floor several rocesses will be observed in the walls, which have been
designed for various purposes at present unknown. The walls may be safely
ascended by a flight of stone steps, passing a small room in the square modem
tower, which was formerly used as a chapel, and at the top of the tower the
wall is sufficiently broad to walk upon all round. From this eminence
an extensive and interesting view of the neighbouring district is obtained.
There is a neat and broad grass lawn round the base of the tower, and the
sides of the mount on which the building stands are planted with trees and
shrubs. The moat which formerly surrounded it is now filled up, so that
the entiro space forms a garden, which is tastefully laid out and kept in ex-
cellent order. The whole property is held, with other holds near the city,
by grants from James I., to Babington and Duffield ; and the words of the
grant aro, " Totam illam peciam terrse nostram scituat Jacent, et existent,
in civit. nost. Ebor. vocat. Clifford's Tower."
The whole area of York Castle, including this tower, the old an4 new
gaols, the county hall, &c., is now enclosed by a very fine lofty stone wall,
with an embattled parapet, and the groat gate of entrance is flanked by two
• Archielogia, voL vi, p. 259.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. 843
massj circular towers.* The modem buildings designated York CaatU, and
used as the County Gaol, will be described at a subsequent page.
Ancient Mansions, Halls, &c, — The site of the Preetorium Palace — ^the
ancient residence of the " Lords of the Universe *'— during the occupation of
the Romans, is placed by Burton, Drake, and Wellbeloved, on the space of
ground extending £rom Christ Church, CoUiergate, through the houses and
gardens on the east side of Goodramgate and St. Andrewgate, through the
Bedem to Aldwark. The royal baths would, in all probability, occupy a
considerable part of the extent. After the departure of the Romans, the
imperial Palace was made the residence of the Saxon and Danish Kings of
Northumberland, and then of the Earls till the Conquest ; for Tosti, Earl of
Northumberland, had his Palace at York plundered and burnt by the enraged
populace. After the Conquest it became the possession of our English Kings ;
and in ancient records the King*s House at York is called Manerium mum
de Toft ; and Aula Regis, From the Kings it probably came to the Dukes of
York, as there was formerly a house in the neighbourhood of Christ Church
called Duke Guildhall. Christ Church in ancient writings is generally
termed Eedesia 8. Trinitatis in aula, vd curia, regis, or in old English, Sainct
Trinityes, in Conyng-garthe ; "which title," observes Drake, "plainly de-
notes that the old courts of the imperial or regal Palace at York reached
to this place."
The Manor Palace, now called the Manor House, which is situated on
the south side of Bootham, just without the bar, and within the walls of St.
Mary's Abbey, is the principal private mansion connected with the early his-
tory of the city now standing. At the dissolution of the Abbey, in the 3 1st
of Henry Vlil., that Monarch ordered it to be dismantled, and a house to be
built out of the materials, to be called the King's Manor; and as King
Heniy, for the purpose of keeping the northern counties quiet, found it
necessary to establish what was called the Great Coimcil of the North, he
appropriated the Manor for the residence of the Lord Presidents of that
Council. During the twelve days which Henry spent at York in 1541,
he probably resided at this mansion. When James I., on his journey to
London to take possession of the crown, after the death of Queen Elizabeth,
arrived at York, he resided at the Manor, and was entertained with great
splendour by the Lord Mayor and Corporation. (See page 311.) He then,
we are told by some, ordered the Manor to be repaired and enlarged, and
• The number of Castles of which there are knoim to be existing remains is, in
England, 461, Wales, 107, Scotland, 150, Ireland, 190; total, 848.
844 HIBTORT OF THE CITT OF TOSS.
converted into a Royal Palace, for bis own accommodation upon his journeys
between London and Scotland ; but the Rev. C. Wellbeloved is of opinion
that instead of repairing or enlarging the old building, he must have ordered
the erection of a new one, as the residence of the Lord Presidents stood on
the site now occupied by the Museum, and the large cellars of that building
may now be seen at the rear of the present Manor House ; whilst the present
mansion occupies the site of the house of the Abbot of St. Mary*s, which
stood north of the spot upon which the mansion of Henry VIII. was built.
There can be no doubt that the building which now stands was erected by
King James ; and it is an interesting specimen of the style of architecture
which prevailed in that Monarch's time. Besides, there are many testimo-
nials of his design in arms and other decorations about the several portals of
the building. The monastic buildings on the spot are said to have furnished
abimdant materials for this mansion, as well as for that which preceded it.
As this building continued to be the residence of the Lord President of the
North as long as that office was continued, the original mansion was probably
demolished, or suffered to go to ruin.
The celebrated but unfortunate Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, the
last Lord President, inhabited this Palace, and one of the aiticles of his im-
peachment, drawn up by John Pym, was that " he had the arrogance to put
up his own arms in one of the King's Palaces." These arms still remain
over one of the doorways in the inner court. In the reign of Charles I.
several Parliaments and Councils were held in this mansion. During the
siege of York in 1644, the Manor was materially damaged by the forces of
the Parliament, under the command of the Earl of Manchester. After
undermining and blowing up St. Mary's Tower, they made a breach in the
wall lower down in Marygate, and took possession of the Palace, whilst
the Royalist commanders were attending divine service at the Cathedral, it
being Trinity Sunday; the Republicans ''deeming that the Lord's day," says
Allen, "was the best time for doing what they denominated the Lord's work."
When Charles 11., in consequence of the continual bickerings between the
Court and the Corporation, appointed a military governor of the city, the
Manor Palace was his official residence. Lord Fretchville, Baron of Stavely,
was the first Governor, and after his death Sir John Reresby succeeded him.
He was the last Governor of York, and the Manor does not seem to have
borne any public character since that period. James 11. granted it to the
Catholics as a seminary, under the care of Bishop Smith, and a large room
in it was fitted up and used as a Catholic chapel, where mass was celebrated
openly; but this consecrated room was in 1688 attacked and dismantled by
mstOBt OF THE GITt OF TOftlt. 345
A violent mob, who at that period entertained great fears lest the ancient
fiuth should be re-introduced into this country. In 1696-7 the Manor was
conyerted into a Royal Mint, and the gold and silver coin struck here was
marked with the letter Y under the King's head. After this period the
King's MfCnor appears to have been used by private individuals. Soon after
the Revolution the Abbey or Manor was leased from the Crown for thirty-one
years to Robert Waller^ Esq., who was Lord Mayor of the city, and one of
its representatives in Parliament. It was subsequently leased to Tancred
Robinson, Esq., second son of Sir WiUiam Robinson, Bart., and ancestor of
the Grantham family, in which it long continued. Part of the building was
converted into an Assembly Room, and used for the public balls, &c., untQ
the present suite of rooms for these purposes were erected. Time and depre-
dation have reduced even the walls of this venerable fabric within narrow
limits ; part of the enclosure is in the possession of the Philosophical Society,
the rest is leased for gardens, and the greater part of what remains of this
once regal dwelling has been since 1884 in the possession of the trustees of
the Wilberforee School for the Blind.
The entrance to the outer court is through an old archway, once the en-
trance to St. Mary's Abbey from Bootham. On the right is a stone wall,
probably built prior to the abdication of James II. ; having in it recesses
enriched with arabesque work, apparently designed for images. The man-
sion is built in the quadrangular form, usual at the period of its erection.
The front has two entrances, one of which — ^formerly the principal one —
displays over the doorway, carved in stone, the Royal Arms, supported by
carved columns, bearing devices, with the initials J. R. near the bottom, and
surmounted with a crown. This was formerly the entrance to the inner
quadrangle or court yard ; but as this end of the building is now let out as a
private dwelling, the court yard is entered by another doorway, near the centre
of the building. This latter doorway is now ornamented with carved figures
of Justice, and other emblematical devices, which formerly adorned the inner
doorway of the original passage to the quadrangle. From the inner court
yard are two ancient grand entrances into the Palace. The one on the east
aide, which was reached by a large flight of stone steps, and which has over
it the Royal Arms, with the initials C. R., led to an apartment, eighty-one
feet long and twenty-seven broad, which is by some supposed to have been
the Banqueting Room, but in which tradition states several of the Parliaments
held at York had assembled. In the centre of this room (which is now used
as a National School) is a large ventilator. The other principal doorway is
on the south side of the quadrangle, and over it still remains the arms and
9 T
340 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK.
several quartenngs of the Earl of Strafford, finely carved in stone. This
outer doorway conducts into a hall or vestibule, from which a second door
leads to a broad and handsome flight of stone steps, which conducts to a
spacious, lofty, and comfortable apartment, by some deemed the Council
Chamber. The doorway already mentioned, from the vestibule to the stone
staircase, has a circular arch ornamented with curiously carved stone-work,
above which is a massy stone frieze, supported by thi^ee singular brackets.
There was formerly a communication between the Council Chamber and
the banqueting room, by a long gallery. Ac^joining the large room at the top
of the great staircase already mentioned, is a suite of apartments, in one of
which is a large fire place with a curiously carved mantel piece, and this, as
well as some of the other rooms, exhibits a carved moulding along the walls
near the ceiling, in which is represented the bear and rugged staff and other
grotesque figures. The large room, supposed by some to have been that used
as a Catholic Chapel* by King James, has a panelled ceiling, and it, as wdl
as the apartment with the curious fire place, is now used as bed rooms for
the boys of the school for the blind. The supposed Council Chamber is now
a school room for the same pupils, and beneath the reputed banquet hall
seems to have been a spacious kitchen, as an immense fire place and chimney
yet remain. There is a large room beneath the supposed chapel (now the
sale room for the articles manufactured by the blind pupils) which is said to
have been the royal library. The ceiling is empanelled with massy oak
mouldings. At the rear of the buildings is a space now used as a play
ground for the pupils of the school for the blind, which has on its ift>uth side
the ruins of the kitchen and out offices of the original residence of the Lord
Presidents, and beneath which axe two large vaults. The ascent to each of
these cellars is by a flight of stone steps.
An account of the Wilberforce School for the Blind, and the Manor
Central National School, now held in the Manor buildings, will be found at
subsequent pages.
On the north side of Walmgate, opposite the Church of St. Dennis, near
the old Iron Foundry, formerly stood Percy's Inn, the Palace of the Earl of
Northumberland, who fell, fighting for the House of Lancaster, in the me-
* Some suppose the large room with the panelled oeiling, over the sale room for Uie
articles manufactured by the blind pupils of the Wilberforce Memorial School, to have
been the one used as a Catholic Chapel ; but others are of opinion that it was in the
large room now oocapied as a National School — the reputed Banqueting Boom — and
for some time the Assembly Boom, that the sendees of the Church of Bome were
selebrated.
HISTORT OF THE CITY OP YORK. 847
morable battle -of Towton Field. In an account of the property of Henry,
Earl of Northumberland (father of the above mentioned Earl), who was slain
at the battle of St Albans, in the 33rd of Henry VI. (1454), a certain man-
sion in Walmgate, in the parish of St. Dyonis in York, called Percy's Inn,
is included. Dugdale, in alluding to this house, says that on the ground
where it stood, there was found by a labourer, several years before, one arm
of a gold cup, so heavy as to be sold for the sum of £50. Percy's lun seems
to have been occupied by other families after the Earls of Northumberland
forsook it. The Rev. Marmaduke Fothergill was bom there in 16512.
The ArchUpiMopal Palace stood on the north side of the Cathedral.
Having fallen into decay it was demolished, and the materials used in the
construction of the choir of that church, the first stone of which was laid
on the 19th of July, 1861.
Within Layerthorpe Postern formerly stood a spacious residence belonging
to the ancient family of Bigod, of Settrington, which is mentioned by Leland,
and near it was a hospital founded by them ; but that author remarks, that
Sir Francis Bigod suffered both the hospital and the mansion to go to ruin,
and there is not now a vestige of either to be seen.
On the left of the lane leading to the church of St. Mary, Bishophill the
Elder, is a small croft, known by the name of the Duke's Hall, which is the
site of a large mansion built by Thomas, Lord Fairfax, and inherited by his
daughter, who married the unfortunate Geoiige Villiers, second duke of
Buckingham of that name.
Davy, or Lardiner HaU, an ancient building which stood in Davygate, was
part of the possessions held by grand serjeanty of the King, in capUe, by
David le Lardiner. Leland says that " Davy s Haul " in York was assigned
as a place of punishment for offenders in the Forest of Galtres. Sir Thomas
Widdrington drew out a genealogical table of this family, and the pedigree is
published in Drake^s Eboracum, page 826. From this it appears that the
Dsunily came to England with the Norman Conqueror, and enjoyed many
privileges in York by royal grant during many successive generations. In
enumerating the privileges of the Lardiner family. Sir Thomas gives the fol-
lowing particulars: — "In the pleas of assize in the county of York, the
morrow after the feast of St. Michael, before Silvester, Bishop of Carlisle,
Roger de Thurkleby, and their companions, Justices itinerant in the d5th
and the beginning of the 86th year of Henry 11., the King gave command
to those Justices to inquire, by jury, what liberty the ancestors of David le
Lardiner had used in the city of York ; and how and what liberties the said
David claimeth by the charters of any of the King's predecessors. Thereupon
848 HI8T0BT OF THE OITT OF TOBK.
David came in, and said that it did bdong to the serjeanty which he holds
in York, to receive, &c. ; as enumerated in the following reply : —
** And the jurors found that the ancestors of David le Lardiner, had really
used the following liberties : — ^To make the larder of the King — ^To keep the
prisoners of the forest — To have the measure of the King for com ; and to
sell the King's com. That they had daily, out of the King's purse, fivepence ;
and for these his ancestors had charters. Sometimes they used this liberty,
to take, every Saturday, irom eveiy window of the bakers where bread was
set to sale, a loaf or an hal^nny — Of every brewer of ale, a gallon of ale or
an halfpenny — Of every butcher's window, a pennyworth of flesh or a penny
— Of every cartload of fish sold at Foss Bridge, four pennyworth of fish as
they were bought at the sea side ; and of eveiy horseload of fish, a penny-
worth or a penny. That they used to make distresses of the King's debts,
and to take foiirpence for eveiy distress ; and that they were aldermen of
minstreUs. The ancestors of David le Lardiner have used these liberties in
the time of King Henry, grandfather to the King which now is, and in the
time of King Richard, till they were hindred ; and they used all these Uberties
in the name of the serjeanty which they held of the King. The record was
sent to the King."
These extraordinary privileges, which were extremely unpleasant and op-
pressive to the citizens of York, continued till the d7th of Henry HI. (1253),
** when," says Drake, " a fine was levied at Westminster, before the King's
Justices, between David de Lardiner, plaintiff, and John de Selby, Mayor,
and the citizens of York, deforciants ; by which the said David did remit and
release to the Mayor and citizens all his right in the above articles, except
the keeper of the King's jail and larder, for the sum of twenty marks, paid
him by the said Mayor and citizens." Afiier the death of David Lardiner,
the heXL passed by marriage to the £Bimilies of Leke, Thornton, Thwaites, and
Fairfax ; and was in time transferred to George Villiers, Duke of Bucking-
ham, who married Mary, only daughter of Thomas, Lord Fair&x, to whom
Sir Thomas Widdrington was related. As neither the Mayor or Sheri£G9 could
arrest or taken fines, nor disturb any person, though not a freeman, from
carrying on his business on these premises, the Corporation purchased the
hall with all its privileges, by which it became subject to their jurisdiction ;
and the building being greatly out of repair, it was taken doim in 1744, the
materials sold, and the ground let on building leases to Mr. Charles Mitlej,
sculptor, reserving a street or row from Davygate into Coney Street, now
called New Street
Mr. William Carr, biother^in-law to Mr. Mitl^, took down the old hall,
HISTORY OF THE CIT7 OF TORX. 349
and built a row of six good houses, which being roofed in July, 1746, on the
very day when William, Duke of Cumberland, visited York after the battle
of GuUoden, were, through rospect to him, called Cumberland Row. These
six houses, with one built by the late Mr. Peckett, more immediately in
Davygate, are all extra-parochial. The title of Cumberland How is now
nearly lost, and the houses form part of New Street.
Near Coffee Yard, in Stonegate, was anciently a laiige house called Mul-
berry Hall, supposed by Mr. Hargrove to be a corruption of the words
Mowbray Hall ; as in several early records the former name is often written
MuVbrai Hall, Mr. Hargrove supposes that it was formerly a house be-
longing to the powerful family of the Mowbrays. The house in Stonegate,
now in the occupation of Mr. Sunter, Bookseller, is said to be the hall, or
a portion of the hall, in question. According to some, Hugo Bois, or Goes,
set up his printing pross here in 1607. (See page 180.)
In a yard nearly opposite St. Martin's Church is a very ancient brick
building, with stone quoins and dressings, which has apparently been used
as a Bagnio, the remains of one bath being yet visible. The building has,
however, being devoted to such a variety of purposes of late years, that its
original use cannot be ascertained with certainty. It is now converted into
dwellings.
The old building in Newgate, and the ancient pile, called St William's
College, will be noticed at subsequent pages.
The Castle MiUs, near the bridge which takes its name from them, are of
very ancient origin ; they were the property of the Castle, but alienated in the
time of Queen Elizabeth. An old document states that in the 4th of Edward
L (1276), the Knights Templars had a mill near the Castle of York, which
afiterwards belonged to the Kings of England. During the reign of Edward
n. they were rented by lease for forty marks per annum ; by which we may
judge of their extent at that time; and as the situation is exactly described in
the register of Fountains Abbey, there is no doubt as to their identity. From
the Crown they passed to Sir Thomas Hesketh, of Heslington, near York,
for the support of an Hospital, which he founded in that village. The Foss
Navigation Company afterwards requiring the water which worked the ma-
chineiy, agreed with the trustees of the said Hospital -to take the premises
into their own hands, subject to an annual payment of £60, to the Hospital.
These MiUs are now the property of the Corporation of York.
The extensive improvements, which of late years have been effected, are
fast sweeping away those numerous specimens of ancient domestic arehitec-
tare for which tlus city was so very remarkable. Eveiy year diminishes
860 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF TOHK.
those carious exteriors, and it is probable that another generation will possess
only drawings and elevations of the buildings now common. The etchings
of Halfpenny and Cave, made towards the close of the last century, show
many interesting objects which have now altogether disappeared.
Britton, in his Architectural AntiquUies,* gives the following quotation from
Mr. Stnitt, which explains very clearly the style of the kind of buildings
most common in the old houses in the streets of York : — " From the reign of
Edward I. to that of Heniy Vn., the common run of houses, especially
among the middling sort of people, were built with wood. They generally
made large porches before the principal entrances, with great halls and
large parlours. The frame-work was constructed with beams of timber of
such enormous size that the materials of one house, as they built anciently,
would make several of equal size according to the present mode of building.
The common method of making walls was to naU laths to the timber frame,
and strike them over with rough plaster, which was afterwards whitened and
ornamented with fine mortar, and this last was often beautified with figures
and other curious devices. The houses in the cities and towns were built
each story jetting over the former story, so that when the streets were not
wide, the people at the top from opposite houses might not only talk and con-
verse with each other, but even shake hands together. The houses were
covered with tiles, shingles, slates, or lead, except in the city of London,
where shingles were prohibited with a view to prevent fires."
Before the present Ouse Bridge was built in 1810, and the approaches to
it called Low Ousegate and Bridge Street widened, the houses answered so
closely to this description, that the people in the top stories could in some
cases converse, and almost shake hands together. The streets which still
retain the greatest number of these houses are the Water Lanes leading from
Castlegate to the banks of the river, and the Shambles. There are also some
curious specimens in Petergate, Stonegate, and Fossgate. The houses out
of Bootham Bar, with the curiously-designed brick-work, are not older than
the 17th century.
Names of Streets, &c. — ^In the names of several of the streets of York,
the termination gate is used to describe a street or lane, as Marygate, Peter-
gate, Micklegate, Ousegate, &c., whilst the greater gates or entrances to the
city are denominated Bars, as Micklegate Bar, Bootham Bar, &c. ; the lesser
ones Posterns, as Castlegate Postern, Fishergate Postern, &c. The word gale
is probably derived from the Danish "gata," a street, as many of the names
♦ Vol. ii., page 79.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OP TOBK. 851
of the suburbs are of Danish-Norwegian origin, as Clementhorpe, Bishop-
thorpe, Middlethorpe, Layerthorpe, &c., the termination thorpe being derived
from " dorp," a village. Several of the streets still retain the names they
bore in medissval times.
Micklegate, formerly called Micklelyth, which extends from St. John's
Church near Ouse Bridge, to the bar to whiclbit gives name, merely implies
a large, great, or spacious street; Mickle in the Anglo-Saxon language signi-
fying great, and Lyth, a port or gate» This name also is derived from the
Danish '' MykiU," great, and " gata/' street. Micklegate was the widest and
most elegant street in York a few years ago, and is now surpassed only by
Parliament Street.
Monkgate leads from Monk Bar to Monk Bridge, and is supposed to be
indebted for its name to a Monastery of Crouched Friars, which tradition
informs us formerly stood in it at the comer of Barker Hill.
Beyond Monk Bridge lie the village and moor of Heworth ; and towards
the north forming a boundary of the lands of Uphus, is a lane which was
anciently termed Goyse Lane. From a perambulation, made in the 28th of
Edward III. (1355), it appears that the Forest of Galtres reached up to the
walls on this side of the city.*
Walmgate, leading from Foss Bridge to Walmgate Bar, in supposed by Mr.
Drake and others to be a corruption of the ancient Roman name Watlingate»
which the street immediately without the bar bore even in modem times.
This latter street (now called Lawrence Street) is supposed to have been the
commencement of the Boman roads which led to the Humber, and to some
of the ports on the German Ocean, and to have derived its former appellation
from the great Eoman road, Watling Street. It is now the direct road to
HuU, BridHngton, &c. Some imagine that Walmgate merely implied Tripe
Street. Mr. Hargrove considers the name but a corruption of Vallumgate —
Vallum being the Latin name for a wall or bulwark for security, as this street
not only leads to the present Walmgate Bar, but also to Fishergate Bar and
the Red Tower.
Bootham is a fine, wide, open, airy street beyond the north gate of the city,
communicating with the village of CHfton. The Romans having interred
* The district formerly known as the Forest of Oaltres is the most interesting portion
of the Vale of Tork. It was a royal demesne, and was preserved as a place of amuse-
ment for the British as well as the Saxon Kings. Some parts of it were thick and
woody, but in general it was open Hke a park so that the hunters might pursue their
game in it. The forest originally comprised about sixty townships, and contained
within its demesne 100,000 aorea of land, or neatly the whole of tlie Wapentake of
Bulmer.
853 HISTOBT OP THB CiTt OF VOBIt^
their dead oat of Bootham Bar, as also without Micklegate Bar, Dean Gale
supposes that the name Bootham was derived from the British word boeth, to
bum. The monks of St Mary's Abbey held a fiedr * in free burgage out of
this bar, on which occasion a hamlet of booths were regularly erected ; and
hence, according to some, the word Bootham. Mr. Drake tells us that
Bootham was "the King*s Street, and extended from Bootham Bar to a
wooden gate, at the feuther end of it, which anciently was called Galmhaw-
lith ; where the officers of the city used to stand to take and receive the toll
and customs." The Dean and Chapter, we are told by Allen, claim jurisdic-
tion on the north side of Bootham, as part of the territories, " De terra Ulphi ;*'
but on the south side from the Abbey gate to St. Mary's Tower, the houses
are in the county, being built where the ditch of the Abbey wall formerly
was. At the end of Bootham, near the village of Clifton, is the basement of
an ancient cross or boundary stone, now designated Burton StonSy and near
it is Burton Lane, which led out of the suburbs into the ancient Forest of
Galtres. The place probably derives its name from a family named Burton,
who were possessed of property in the neighbourhood. Burton Lane was
formerly called Chapel Lane, from the Hospital and Chapel of St Mary Mag-
dalene, which stood near it, but of which no remains are now visible. The
mill in the lane existed in the time of Richard 11. Near Burton Stone, in
the time of the Plantagenets, the city troops and trained bands assembled
when called out to check the incursions of the Scots, and here they received
their last inspection by the Mayor and citizens.f The legal boundary of the
city extends to Burton Stone, on the north side ; but on the south side the
city jurisdiction only commenced at Bootham Bar. In the field nearly
opposite the Burton Stone, some stone coffins were found in 1818.
GiUygate, leading from Bootham to the north end of Lord Mayor's Walk,
derives its name from the ancient church of St. Giles, which, according to
• In the reigns of Henry HE. and Edward I., the great fairs were the scenes where
the principal part of the traffic of the kingdom was transacted, as they were frequented
not only hy people of all the surroonding country, but by foreign as well as English
merchants. They were held by prescription, and under the authority of royal charters,
and yielded a considerable profit to the lords or owners who had jurisdiction in all
matters of dispute, and administration of justice at courts of pie paudre which were
appurtenant, as a matter of common right to every fkir. (Stat, 17 Edw. I. c. a.) The
fidr of the Abbot of St. Mary's, at Bootham, caused many serious disputes between the
Abbots and the citizens, till Archbishop Thoresby, in 1358, effected an agreement
between the parties respecting the bounds of each jurisdiction.
f " An Antiquarian Ramble through York," — a lecture deliyerod by Bobert Dayies,
Siq., F.S.A., at the York Institute, on the 14th February, 1854.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. 358
Mr. Hargrove, stood about half way down the street on the west side.
Lord Mayor's Walk was once called Newbegin, and is described in an old
document as " Newbegin, alias Gilljgate."
Penley Chrovey commonlj called The Groves — ^the district north of Lord
Major^s Walk — ^is a corruption of Payneley Crofts, and probably derives its
name from a gentleman of the name of Payneley, who first enclosed the land
in this locality from the ancient Forest of Galtres, to which it previously
belonged.
Horse Fair was the name given to a piece of ground (now enclosed) at the
north end of Lowther Street, Groves, it being the place where many of the
York fairs were formerly held. At these fiedrs booths were erected for the
purpose of trade, as was done- at the Abbot of St. Mary's fair already men-
tioned. In ancient writings the district extending from the place fosmerly
called the Horse Fair to Bootham is called Le Horse Ayre.
Marygate, which runs southward from Bootham to the river, clearly implies
that the street leads to the site of St Mary's Abbey, the remains of the
principal entranoe to the Abbey being in this street. Marygate was an-
ciently called Earlsburgh, from £arl Alan, who founded the Abbey, or
probably from the Danish Earl Siward, who resided here. At the entrance
to this street formerly stood an unshapely building known as the Cockpits,
where in days of yore cockfighting was carried on as a favourite amusement
of the gentry of the county. In 1748 Sir J. Lister Kaye fought twenty-eight
battles with game cocks, and won eighteen. Now, however, the barbarous
amusement has fjedlen into desuetude, and it must be regarded as an amelio-
ration of manners that there is no gentleman who now breeds birds for the
purpose of fighting.
Almrygarth, a field near Marygate, in which the Abbots of St. Mary kept
their cattle that were ready for killing. Here were also the Abbots' fish-ponds.
Coney Street, anciently '' Couyng Strete," leads from St Helen's Square to
Spuniergate. This street has for some time been considered the principal
street of the city for business. It is mentioned in Domesday Book. Coney
is a corruption of the Saxon word Conyng, signifying King.
Spurriergate, a continuation of Coney Street, is so called because it was
anciently the residence of the makers and dealers in spurs, when that ap-
pendage of the person was a much larger and more costly article than at
present Formerly it was usual for the members of one trade to live in the
same street, and the derivation of Spurrieiigate, Colliergate, Fishergate, and
Girdlergate is to be ascribed to this circumstance. In the reign of King
Edward III., the church of St Michael, Spurriergate, is described as being
2 z
354 BISTORT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
iu Conyng Street; and it appears by the churchwardens* books of St Michaers
parish, that more than 200 years ago, Sponiergate was called Little Coney
Street ; hence it is obvious that Spurriergate is a name given at a later date
to that part of Conyng or Coney Street. Before the year 1769, Spurriergate
must have been a narrow dirty lane, for we find that in that year half of the
houses near the entrance from Ousegaie were taken down and rebuilt so far
back as to make the street t^ice its original width. The expense of this
improvement was defrayed by a general subscription, to which the directors
of the Assembly Rooms contributed £870. Until 1841 this street, although
one of the most frequented in the city, was one of the narrowest and most
inconvenient. In that year one side was taken down and rebuilt, and the
street widened.
St. Helen's Square is so denominated from the neighbouring church of St.
Helen.
Blake Street is probably derived from the naval hero of the Commonwealth.
Mr. Drake supposes it to have been originally Bleake Street, from its ex-
posure to the north winds; but Allen thinks that this derivation seems
incompatible with every princi^de of etymology, "for on such an explanation,'*
says he, " every town and city in the kingdom would have its Bleake Streets."
Little Blake Street was formerly called Loup or Lop hams, most probaUy
from St. Lupus, Bishop of Troyes, who came over to England vrith the con-
currence of Pope Celestine, in company with St. Germains, Bishop of
Auxerre, in 439, to resist the Pelagian heresy, then infesting die country.
It is also conjectured that its original name was derived from the Belgic word
Loop, signifying a range of bars joined together; this being ck)sely con-
tiguous to Bootham Bar, the Minster gates, and Lendal Postern. This
street, though still narrow, was much more so till the year 1785, when it
was widened and paved on each side by subscription.
Lendal, the street leading from the Mansion House to the Museum gates,
was anciendy called Old Conyng, or Old King Street It appears that this
part of the city, down to the riyer, was formerly called Lendall, which term,
Drake supposed to imply Land-all ; having originated from there being a
staith or landing place there, but adds thart he imagines the name arsse from
the hill near St Leonard's Hospital, and was aai abbreviation of Leonard's
Hill. Mr. Allen thinks that as a declivity w«s ancientiy termed, both in
England and Scotland, a deU, or, in the Dutch language, dal ; and as there
is a strong declivity here, particularly below St. Leonard's Hospital, Leonafd
ixkight for brevity be easily corrapted to Lend ; and by adding to it die pre*
ceding word, the name would appear complete.
BISTORT OF THE CITY OF YORK. 356
The lauding place at Lendal Ferry was formerly known as St. I^onard'a
Landing, for here we find, in the reign of Heniy V., when Lord Scrope was
attainted for treason, the Lord Mayor, in his capacity of escheator, seized
certain ships belonging to his lordship, lying " at St. Leonard's Landing, in
the river Ouse."
The street at the end of Lendal, and extending from the end of St. Leo-
nard s Place to the river, was very recently called Lendal Street, or Back
Lendal, now it is denominated Museum Street, That portion of it between
the end of Lendal and the Royal Hotel was once called FinkU, or Finckh
Street, which appellation is derived, according to Mr. Hargrove, from the
Danish word Vincle, which means an angle or comer. This was known as
Finkle Street in the reign of James I. In 1783 a row of houses on the north
west side was erected, which rendered it very narrow, but in 1846 these were
taken down through the liberality and good taste of the Corporation, and
thus the ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital were brought to public view.
A narrow street, leading from the comer of St. Sampson's Square into
Swinegate, is now called Finkle Street, It was till lately also called Muckey
Pegg Lane, probably from some notorious character who resided in it. The
space between St. Leonard's Cloisters and St. Leonard's Place was formerly
called Mint Yard, from the fact of a royal mint having been established in
its vicinity.
Davygate is a narrow street leading from St. Helen's Square to St. Samp-
son's Square, In ancient writings it is called Davygate Lardiner, from Davy
or Lardiner's Hall, which formerly occupied the site of Cumberland Row, or
the first six houses in New Street (See page 347.)
St, Sampson 8 Square, or Thursday Market, is a large open area in the vi-
cinity of the church of St. Sampson, in which formerly was held the principal
market in the city, and in which is stiU held the Butcher's Market. The
brutal and degrading practice of bull baiting used often to be exhibited here ;
and near the centre of the Market Place was formerly a large bull-ring, which
constituted a privilege to every freeman who was a householder, and resided
within sight of it, to right of stray over Knavesmire, and the other common
land belonging to Micklegate Ward. A few years ago extensive improvements
were efiected in this locality. The square was enlarged and thrown into
Parliament Street, and a new outlet formed from it through St. Sampson's
Churchyard, called Church Street. The bull ring was removed, but the
privileges of the freemen still remain.
Parliament Street, or the New Market, between St Sampson's Square and
Pavement, is a very wide and handsome street erected between the years
850 HISTORT OF THE CITT OF TOBK.
1834 and 1836. To effect the alteration in this locality a large mass of old
and decayed tenements were removed. Parliament Street is certainly the
best street in York. At elections for the city, hustings are erected in it
JtfbbergcUe, or Jewhergate, recently called Market Street, leads from Par-
liament Street to Sporriergate, and has lately been widened so as to afford
additional facilities for traffic. The learned Dr. Langwith derived the name
of Jubbergate from Bretgate or Jowbretgate, the names given to this locality
in some ancient deeds. By the term Bretgate, he understood British Street,
and considered that here was a street inhabited by the native Britons before
the ancient Roman city was founded by Agricola. In process of time, he
thinks, it became the residence of the Jews, or that part of the city where
they were permitted to settle (for in every city where they were tolerated they
had a certain locality assigned them for their residence, which was separated
from the rest by walls, gates, and bars, and hence styled Jews-burg), and was
consequently Jew-bret-gate, which in succeeding ages might be written Jou-
bretgate and Jubbergate. One half of this street — the part north of the
intersection of Feasegate and Peter Lane— was formerly called High Jubber-
gate, and the other end Low Jubbergate. It is now pretty weU established
that the piece of ground on the banks of the Foss, long known by the
name of Jewhry or Jewbury was the place of interment of the Jewish popu-
lation of the city, where, says Mr. Davies, " the Isaacs and Rebeccas of York
have reposed for five or six centuries." Hoveden informs us that King
Henry II., in 1177, granted to the Jews the privilege of having a burial
place without the walls of every city in England ; prior to which they were
obliged to convey theit dead to London for interment. The Jews were a
rich and numerous body in York during the 12th century. They had for-
merly a Synagogue in Walmgate.*
Feasegate extends from the south east comer of St. Sampson*s Square to
Market Street, and has also been very much improved. Dr. Langwith
imagined that an image dedicated to St. Faith had formerly stood in this
street, which in old French is written S. Fe ; and hence remarks that the
name should be Feesgate. Drake supposes that Feasegate took its name
from the old English /?astf or feag JiageUare, to beat with rods, and is thereby
led to conjecture that offenders were whipped through this street and round
the market. Allen thinks it probable that it was originally Feastgate, from
• It is stated that the whole number of Jews now in England is only 30,000, 20,000
of whom are located in London. Bussia contains 1^ millions. Constantinople, 80,000,
and India, 17,000 Jews. It is also stated that out of the 20,000 in London, 2,000 are
baptised Christians.
HISTORY OF THE CITY OF TORK. 367
its proximity to Jubbergate ; and considering the peculiar religious customs
of the people who resided there, he concludes that the Jews from the neigh-
bouring towns and yillages, might, at their periodical feasts held in York,
have been accommodated in this Street.
Previous to the alterations effected a few years ago on the west side of St
Sampson's Church, the street now called Church Street, but formerly Gird-
lergate, extended only from Petergate to Swinegate, or near to the east end
of St. Sampson's Church. By the late alterations . this street is continued
through the churchyard into St. Sampson's Square, which is a great im-
provement. Girdlergate was so called from having been the general place of
residence for persons of that trade ; for though there are not any girdlers
now in York, they were formerly so numerous as to form themselves into a
company, which was governed by a master and other officers, who were
annually chosen, and which held its periodical meetings at their common hall.
SmnegtUe and Patrick's Pool in this neighbourhood are very low places.
In Swinegate stood the ancient church of St. Benedict, and on its site a
number of houses^ were erected, which were known by the name of Bonnet's-
rents ; but these houses have given way to recent improvements. Patrick's
Pool is met with in documents as early as 1235.
The Shambles are so called from being chiefly inhabited by butchers. The
ancient name of this street was High Mangergate, variously supposed to be
derived from the French word Manger, to eat, and from the Saxon word
Mangere, implying trade.
Newgate is a narrow street in this locality, so named from a prison in it,
part of which is yet remaining. It is named in the 1 4th century, and has
been an object of interest to Archaeologists. It appears that the Vicars
Choral possessed a house near the yard of St. Sampson's Church, where they
lived together and had a common hall, and it is supposed that this was the
building. In later times it was probably converted into a prison for offenders
within the precincts of the court, a royal residence having been in the neigh-
bourhood. It is a large ancient looking stone building in bad condition.
The windows are square headed, with labels, and the structure still retains
the appearance of a place of confinement. In 1754 it was licensed as a place
of worship for Protestant Dissenters. It is now occupied by a lime seller
and a rag and bone dealer.
Petergate, a long street extending firom Bootham Bar to King's Square,
takes its name from its vicinity to the Cathedral. The south entrance of
this street has been very much widened and beautified.
King's Square, formerly called the Hay Market, received its name doubt-
358 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF YORK.
less from its proximity to the site of the ancient palace of the Saxon and
Danish Kings of Northumhria. In 1768 a part of the church and a house
were pulled down to improve the thoroughfare, making the open space which
now exists.
Goodramgate or Gotherhamgate, leading from King's Square to Monk Bar,
is a long narrow street, supposed to have derived its name firom the circum-
stance of its having once contained the residence of a Danish General named
Godram, Gotheram, or Guthrum, who was deputy governor of York.
Uggleforth or Oglefarth is a small street leading from Goodramgate to the
east end of the Cathedral. Dr. Langwith conceives the derivation of this
name to be from the British word Uchel, denoting High, and Poth, now
written and pronounced forth, a gate, together meaning Highgctte; and hence
we may suppose that a principal gate entrance to the Close of the Cathedral
formerly stood hereabouts. Mr. Wellbeloved says, " The remains of a rather
large gateway to the Close of the Minster was found a few years f^o about
the middle of Ogleforth."
College Street^ leading from the east end of the Minster to Goodramgate,
is so named from the ancient College of St. William being situated in it. In
an old house near the Goodramgate end, Mr. George Hudson, for some time
called the '* Railway King," at one time kept a linen draper *q shop.
ColUergate is a continuation of Petergate and King's Square. This name
was given to it from its having being the residence of several persons engaged
in the coal trade.
Fossgate is a continuation of Colliergate to the Foss, and hence its name.
St Saviour gate t which runs from the church of St. Crux to Spen Lane, is
so called from. St. Saviour's Church standing here. It appears that the upper
part of this street was formerly known by the name of Ketmangergate, " pro-
bably," says a learned writer, *' because it may have been the market for
horses' flesh, for that is called ket, and used to be eaten about the time of the
Conquest, particularly the flesh of young foals." Mr. Hargrove tells us that
it is generally supposed that a Roman temple formerly stood in or near this
street, as in digging same foundations on the north side of it many years ago,
large quantities of the horns of several kinds of beasts were discovered. Its
proximity to the imperial Palace increases the probability.* Previous to the
alterations and improvements in the neighbourhood of the church of St. Crux,
about fifteen years ago, there was an ancient stone in the wall of a house
at the entrance to this street, which is now in the Museum, and on which
• Histoiy of York, vol. ii, page 880.
HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 359
is inscribed — " Here stood the image of* Yorke, and remened in the year of
our Lord God a. m. yc. i. unto the Common Hall in the time of the mairalty of
John Stockdale"
King Ebrauci the presumed founder of the citj, is believed to be what is
here meant by the image of York ; and it is supposed that the first stone was
laid under his direction not far from the site of this inscription. The image
is thought to have been of wood ; and in the records of the citj is the fol-
lowing curious entry relative to it: — ''On January 15th, and the 17th of
Henry VII., the image of Ebrauke, which stood at the west end of St. 6a-
viourgate, was taken down, new made, and transported from thence, and set
up at the east end of the chapel at the common hall."
St, Andrewgate, leading from King's Square to Aldwark, received its name
from the desecrated church of St. Andrew, which stands in it.
At the east end of the church of St. Crux was formerly a short, narrow
street, named Whipmawhopinagate, formed by a row oi houses, which ran on
a line with the west side of Colliei^te to the centre of Pavement ; and on
the south side of the church was another row of houses, which formed a nar-
row and inconvenient lane, generally inhabited by hosiers, and consequently
called Hosier Lane, The removal of these two lanes has very much improved
this locality, by widening the east end of Pavement, and the nordi end of
Fossgate, as well as by exhibiting to view the ancient church of St. Crux,
which had been completely surrounded. Mr. Hargrove imagines that as the
House of Correction was anciently on Peasholme Green in this vicinity,
Whipmawhopmagate may have been a boundary for the public whipping of
delinquents. It was at one period the market for boots and shoes, but
before its removal it was principally used as a basket market on Saturdays.
Pavement is a well built and pleasant street, extending from Fossgate to
the north end of High Ousegate. "Whence it derived the name is doubtful,
but we may with some degree of certainty consider it a token of the ancient
and original superiority of this street over others of the city; for to designate
one street ' The Pavement,' mint naturally imply that the others were not
paved at the time this name was given ; and we do not find that it has home
any other from time immemorial."'!' Previous to the removal of the row of
houses which formed Hosier Lane, the Pavement extended only to the west
end of St Crux's Church.
High Chiaegate, and its continuation, Low Ousegate, lead in a direct line
south fi-om Pavement and the east of Parliament Street to Ouse Bridge.
* Hargrove, vol. u, page 206.
860 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK.
These are now well bailt and respectable streets, but previous to the building
of the present bridge across the Ouse in 1810, thej were so narrow, that two
persons on opposite sides of the way could shake hands from the top stories
of the houses. In High Ousegate is an antique looking house, in which
Charles 1. dined with the Lord Major, Sir Christopher Croft, NoTember 21st,
1641, who was knighted on the occasion.
Hungau, which runs from St Saviour*s Church to the river Foss, was in
former times of considerable importance, being the place of residence for many
of the most opulent merchants. Drake attempts to transform Hungate into
Hungrjgate ; Hargrove considers it probable that as Hungate extends to the
very edge of the Foss, it may have been so called from the word Vnday im-
plying water ; and that, alluding to the situation, it may have been Undagate ;
and thence have become Hundagate, or Hungate, a street leading to the water.
Peasholme Green leads to Layerthorpe Bridge. The name of this street
plainly enough explains its derivation ; Holme being an Anglo-Saxon word
for a small island, or for any watery situation. Peasholme Green has been
first gained from the river Foss for gardens, and next for buildings. In the
centre of this green was the church of All Saints, of which there are no
remains. Crossing the river Foss at the end of Peasholme Green, we arrive
in a long street called Layerthorpe, formerly called the village of Zayrethorpe.
This ancient entrance to the Forest of Galtres bears in its name some
allusion to circumstances connected with a forest ; Zeer, or Zayre, being in
old English a hunting term for the resting place of a beast of the chase.
There are now no vestiges to be seen of the ancient parish church of
Layerthorpe.
Barker Hill, which conducts from Jewbury to Monkgate, was anciently
termed Harlot HilL Drake observes that '* probably it had not its name for
nothing. Love Lane being contiguous to it."
Aldwark is a mean street running £rom Goodramgate to Peasholme Green.
The word Aid implies old, and wark a building. When we caU to mind that
the Roman Imperial Palace extended from Christ Church to this street, we
shall not be surprised that our Saxon ancestors gave it this name.
Stonegate, anciently called 8taynegate, extending from St. Helen's Square
to Petergate, derives its name from the great quantity of stone formerly
carried through, and no doubt strewed in it, during the various erections of
the Minster. Stonegate contains the most antique houses of any principal
street in the city. The best specimen of them is that occupied by Mr.
Sunter, supposed to be Mulberry Hall. (See page 339.)
An open passage or thoroughfare near the top of Stonegate is called Coffee
fitSTOBT OF THE CITY OF YORK. 361
Yard, Drake supposes that in this yard formerly stood the first coffee house
estahlished in this city.'i'
FUhergate is the name borne by the street, once considerable, immediately
without Fishergate Bar. This ancient street, which had suffered much at
various times previously, was almost wholly destroyed during the civil wars
in the reign of Charles I. Three churches anciently stood in Fishergate.
St. Charge's Street now leads from Walmgate to Fishergate Bar. The
north end of this street was formerly very narrow, and called Neutgate Lane ;
but a few years since several old houses were pulled down, the street was
widened, and the whole street received its present appellation, owing to its
having been the street in which stood the ancient parish Church of St.
George. St George's Catholic Church now stands in it. Neutgate Lane
was probably indebted for its name to the Newty a small lizard often found in
low marshy places ; this lane was certainly very low and wet St George's
Street was formerly one of the principal entrances to the city, and must at
some time have been very populous, for we find the sites of three churches
very near together, viz : — St George's, St Andrew's, and St Peter in the
Willows; besides the churches of All Saints and St Helen, which stood
without Fishergate Bar.
CasUegate, a name which explains itself, leads from the castle to the city.
A wind mill once stood in Castlegate Lane. Nessgate is a continuation of
Castlegate. It derives its name from the Saxon word Ness, implying a
projecting or an exalted situation. It was formerly so very narrow that
two oaniages could not pass each other in it, but in 1767 aU the houses
on the north east side were taken down, and rebuilt several feet further
back, by which the street was rendered open and convenient. The expense
of this alteration was defrayed by subscription. The three narrow streets
leading from Castlegate to the river, and now generally known as the
Water Lanes, were formerly called severally Carrgate, Thrush Lane, and
Outergate. The first of these streets — formerly Carrgate — ^was subsequently
called First Water Lane until the year 1851, when it was in great part
rebuilt, and received the name of King Street, probably because it leads to
the King's StaUh. Thrush Lane, afterwards known as Second Water Lane,
is now called Water Lane; and Outergate, afterwards Far Water Lane,
has been latterly called Friargate, These lanes and the a4joining Friar's
Walls were the site of the old monastery of the Franciscan Friars.
m Coffee WBS first introduced into England hj Nathaniel Canopus, a Cretan, in 1641.
The first ooffee house in England was kept by one Jacobs, a Jew, at Oxford, in 1660.
8 A
86*2 HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK.
Fetter Lane is a corruption of Felter Lane, the lane in which felt makers
resided.
Long Close Lane is so called from its being on the site of a field formerly
called the Long Close, extending from Fishergate Bar to Walmgate Bar. In
this field cattle used to be exposed for sale during the fairs.
St George's Field, or St, George's Close, adjoining the entrance to the New
Walk, is the site of an ancient religious house, and the property of the
citizens, in which, bj some old charters, they are authorized to hold pageants,
games, dry Hnen, shoot with bows and arrows, &c. So early as tiiie year
1696 this close is mentioned as being devoted to these purposes.
Skeldergate is a long street on the south side of the Ouse, running parallel
with that river. This street was formerly occupied by merchants for the
purposes of trade, and derived its name firom the old Dutch word KeUar or
Keldar, signifying a cellar or warehouse, such places being numerous here
when York was a more commercial city than at present.
Beedham's Court, Skeldergate, was formerly called Hagworm*8 Nest.
Bishophill is so named from its having been specially under the jurisdiction
of the Archbishop of York.
Barker Lane, which leads from Micklegate to Tanner Row, was formerly
called Gregory Lane, the parish church of St. Gregory having stood near the
south-east angle of it.
Tanner Bow derives its appellation from the tan-pits which formerly were
situated between this street and the city walls.
Toft Green, or Toft Field, from Les Toftes, or Les Kinges toftes, was so
called from the number of houses destroyed here by William the Conqueror.
The North-Eastern Railway Station occupies the sites of Toft Green, Friar's
Gardens, &c, A new street, running from Micklegate to the Railway Sta-
tion, was named Hudson's Street, in honour of Mr. George Hudson, late
chairman of the Railway directors, a former Lord Mayor of York, and some
time known as the " Railway King ;" but when Mr. Hudson fell fivm power
in the Railway world, the name of this street was changed to Railway Street.
Old BaHe HiU is called in ancient deeds Vetus Balliwn, signifying a place
of security. This place is doubtless the site of an ancient castle or place of
strength.
The property called Trinity Gardens near Micklegate Bar (the site of the
ancient Priory of Holy Trinity), has lately been purchased by Mr. J. Craw-
shaw, the eminent contractor of this city, for building purposes, and with the
view of forming a new street, to connect Micklegate with Bishophill. This
new thoroughfare will unite with Micklegate at the point where the old arch-
way or entrance to the Prioiy lately stood.
HISTOBT OF THE CITT OF TORK. 863
Nunnery Lane, without Micklegate Bar, is so called from its proximity to
the Nunnery. It was anciently called BeggargaU Lanej from the practice of
distributing alms to the poor from a side-door of St. Thomas's Hospital in
this lane.
Clementkorpe. — This suburb is situated without the walls towcurds the
south-east angle of the cil^, and it derives its name from the patron saint
of its ancient church and nunnery. There are now no remains of these
buildings. A number of small streets have been erected in this neighbour-
hood within the last few years.
The Mount is probably so named from its comparative elevation. It is
thought by Drake to have been a Roman work, but Mr. WeUbeloved says
that " it is not artificial, but natural, and is a portion of the ridge, if such it
may be called, to which Severus' Hills belong." In the Civil Wars it was
used as an outwork to command the road leading to Tadcaster.
The New Walk, on the north bank of the Ouse, extends from the end of
Friar*s Walls (where there is a ferry across the river), to nearly a mile in
length, beneath the shade of lofty elms, which at the lower end form a double
row. This pleasing promenade was formed at the expense of the city in
1733 and 1734, as far as the junction of the rivers Foss and Ouse. In
1768 the walk was continued on the other side of the Foss ; a swing bridge
called the Blite Bridge connects the two portions. Prior to the forming of
the Foss navigation the small rivulet which divided the walk, was called
Brawney Dyke ; and over it was a draw bridge, which in 1736 was removed,
and a handsome stone bridge substituted, to the great ornament of the walk,
but this bridge being too low for vessels to pass, it was removed, and the
present wooden swing bridge erected in its stead. Part of the Church of St.
Crux having been taken down, the useless materials were removed here in
1782, and with them the walk was much improved. On the further division
of the walk there is an excellent well of clear water, over which is an erection,
built at the expense of the city in 1756, in imitation of a ruin. The late
Dr. White, in a small tract which he published respecting the many fine
springs in this neighbourhood, observes that they are generally saturated
with silenites; but that " the Lady WeU upon the New Walk " is entirely free
friom that property, but equally soft with the river water, and remarkably
good. Mr. Hargrove tells us, that in March and April, 1816, an advertise-
ment appeared for the sale of forty-one of the largest elm trees growing on
this walk, which excited considerable emotion in the city ; whereupon a large
number of the respectable citizens presented a memorial to the Lord Mayor,
representing those trees to form the principal beauty of the walk, and re-
864 HISTOBT OF THE CITY OF YORK.
questing that they might remain undisturbed, and the result was that the
sale was postponed, and the trees still continue to the credit of the city.*
The Esplanade, another very beautiful walk, and agreeable resort for the
citizens, has been formed a few years ago along the north bank of the Ouse,
from Lendal Tower to Clifton Scalp, a distance of about a mile.
The Suburbs of York were extensive at an early period, but from a variety
of causes were considerably reduced in population, and in the space they
occupied. " Passing over the 6plendid or sanguinary scenes which the his-
tory of York presents, in connexion with the times of the Romans, Saxons,
Danes, and even the Norman Conqueror, till we arrive at the reign of Edward
m., when a great part of his army of 60,000 men was quartered in the
suburbs," says Allen, '* this alone will suffice to corroborate the statements
of their having contained many noble buildings, and having extended to
several villages, now more than a mile distant. All those fair edifices were
consumed by fire in 1644, except a few houses out of Micklegate Bar, which
were preserved by the royal fort."* The ruined suburbs are however rising
rapidly, for there are now many good streets, and several handsome buildings
and public institutions beyond the walls of the city.
Bbidoes. — ^The bridges of York are six in number, one of which, the prin-
cipal one, crosses the Ouse near the centre of the city, and the remaining five
span the Foss. It is unknown at what date the original bridge across the
Ouse was erected, but in 1154 the wooden bridge then standing gave way
under the weight of a large multitude, who had collected to witness the entry
of Archbishop William.* In 1235 Archbishop Walter de Grey granted a
brief for the rebuilding of Ome Bridge; and in 1268 there was an afiray be-
tween the citizens and tlie retainers of John Comyn, a Scottish nobleman, on
Ouse Bridge, which ended in the slaughter of several of the Scotchmen. The
citizens would appear to have been unjust aggressors, for shortly afterwards
they agreed to pay £300., and build a chapel on the bridge, in which two
priests should pray for the souls of the slain " for ever." In 1564 an im-
mense flood, caused by a sudden thaw, carried off two arches of Ouse Bridge,
and twelve houses which stood on them were overwhelmed in the ruin, and
several lives were lost. The bridge remained in this ruinous state for nearly
two years, when the late venerable structure was erected on its site. The
last old bridge consisted of five arches, and was termed by Camden a very
noble erection. The centre arch was one of the largest in Europe. It
• Hargrove's History of York, vol. ii., p. 525. + Allen's Yorks., book iii, p. 312.
• Bridges of stone were not built in England till after the Norman Conquest.
HISTOBY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 366
measures eightj-one feet span, and seventeen feet above the summer level ;
its width on the top between the walls was eighteen feet, including the cause-
ways, which were very narrow. In addition to the carriage way and footpaths
just described, were several buildings on the west side of the bridge ; the
principal of which was St, WiUiam's Chapel, an interesting specimen of the
early English architecture, as may be seen by the plates of it in Halfpenny s
Fragmenta Vetusta, and Cave's Antiquities of York. This chapel, which
contained several chantries, the original grants of which are still amongst
the records of the city, is supposed to be tiiie one already mentioned as having
been originally built in 1268. After the Reformation the chapel was con-
verted into an Exchange for the Society of Hamburg Merchants of York,
and subsequently into a Council Chamber for the Corporation, and a Record
Room ; and it was finally removed on the erection of the present bridge in
1810. On the opposite side of the bridge stood the old gaol for debtors,
which was built in the 16th century, at which time another arch was added
to the bridge in order to strengthen this new erection. In consequence of
the high pitch of the central arch, the ascent and descent on each side were
dangerously steep, and houses and shops encumbered it imtil within a few
years of its removal. Amongst the contributors to this bridge was Lady Jane
Hall, relict of Robert Hall, an Alderman, who gave by will the sum of £100.
Her liberality was commemorated by the following curious distich, engraved
on a brass plate on the north side of the arch : —
William Watson, lord mayor. An. Dom. 1550.
Ladj Jane Hall, lo ! here the works of faith doth shew,
By giving a hundred pounds this Bridge for to renew.
The precarious state of the old bridge induced the Corporation, in the autumn
of 1808, to build a new one. Accordingly an Act of Parliament was passed
in that year for the erection of the present bridge ; Mr. Peter Atkinson was
chosen as the architect; and on Monday, the 10th of December, 1810, the
foundation-stone of the structure was laid with much ceremony by the Lord
Mayor. On the occasion there was a grand procession of the Corporation,
the Provincial Grand Lodge of Freemasons, &c. A glass vessel was placed
in the stone, containing the different and latest coins of that reign, with a
handsome medal, struck in commemoration of his Majesty having entered
the 5 1st year of his reign. The vessel was covered by a brass plate, inscribed :
*' The first stone of this bridge was laid December 10th, in the year mdcccx., and in the
fifty -first year of the reign of George III., by the Bt. Hon. George Peacock, Lord Mayor.
Peter Atkinson, architect."
366 HISTORY OF THE CITT OF TORE.
The Act of Parliament specified that JSdO,000. should he paid to the com-
missioners hj the Justices of the Peace for the three Ridings of the county,
out of the county rates, hj five equal yearly instalments of iS 6,000. ; the
West Biding paying ^2,787. 10s. ; the North Riding, Jgl,862. 10s. ; and
the East Riding, JS 1,350. ; heing the usual proportions of all their county,
contrihutions. In addition, the Lord Mayor and commonalty of the city were
ohliged to contribute for the same period, the annual sum of £400. There
was also a bridge toll, which had been peculiarly obnoxious, -and indeed in-
jurious to the city, which was finally abolished on the 18th of June, 1829,
when there was a grand procession to celebrate the event The new bridge
was completed in March, 1820 ; and, by a singular coincidence, during the
second mayoralty of Mr. Alderman Peacock, who laid the first stone.
The bridge is a handsome structure, consisting of three eUiptical arches
with a battlement on each side, of a plain parapet wall, breast high. The
span of the centre arch is forty-three feet, and the roadvray is forty feet
within the battlements. The flagged footways are each five and a half feet
broad, leaving a carriage way of twenty feet At each end of the bridge on
the south-east side a handsome series of stone steps leads down to the staiths
or wharfs for lading and unlading of goods, &c. That on the north side of
the Ouse is called the King*8 Staith, and the Qtieetis Staith is on the opposite
side. The word Staith was derived from a purely Saxon term signifying a
bank or shoal. It is a provincial term applied to a wharf or landing place.
The King^s Staith was mentioned in the days of Richard U., in connection
with the fresh water fishers. It was raised and new paved in 1774.
Foss Bridge, at the end of Fossgate, dividing that street from Walmgate,
was erected in 1811, on the site of a very ancient stone bridge of three
arches, built in the reign of Heniy IV. It appears by an old charter that
Richard 11. granted a license to the Mayor and (!ommonalty of York, to pur-
chase lands of the yearly value of £100., for the support of the bridges Ouse
and Foss ; but the latter having been rebuilt, the Mayor and citizens were
empowered, in tlie 4th of Henry IV. (1403), to collect a toU upon it during
five successive years, to defray the expenses incurred. A chapel was erected
on the north side of the bridge, dedicated to St Anne, though it was some-
times called the chapel of St Agnes. It was licensed on the 14th of
November, 1424, for the celebration of divine service. Several of the piles
which supported this chapel, were drawn up so late as the year 1734. In
Camden's time Foss Bridge was so crowded with houses as to render it
difficult for a stranger to know when he was passing over it — ^the line of street
extending completely over it The houses were however soon after taken
HI8T0BT OF THE CITY OF YORK. 867
down, though we find that in 17S8 several fish stalls were again erected on
the soath side, a market for salt water fish being then held there eyerj
Wednesday and Friday.
The present bridge is a neat structure, consisting of one elliptical arch,
with a balustrade. The foundation stone was laid on the 4th of June, 1811 ;
and a brass plate was inserted in the stone, bearing the following inscription :
" The first stone of this bridge was laid by the Right Hon. Lawrence Dundas,* Lord
Mayor, on the 4th of June, udcccxi., in the fifty-first year of the reign of George HI.,
and on the day on which his Majesty completed the seventy-third year of his age. Teier
Atkinson, Architect."
Castle MUU Bridge, over the Foss, is so called from its proximity to certain
miUs anciently belonging to the Castle. There was abridge here at a very
early period, and as it was in some sort an outwork of the Castle, was well
defended. The roadway was widened and the bridge much improved a few
years since.
Layerthorpe Bridge, which connects Peasholme Green and Layerthorpe,
was formerly remarkable for its extreme narrowness, and for the postern that
guarded it at one end. The present structure was erected in 1829.
Monk Bridge, which is a modem erection, forms an approach to York from
Malton, Scarborough, &c. The span of its arch is wide enough to admit of
the free passage of vessels of seventy tons burden.
The Scarborongh Railway Bridge, a neat cast^ iron structure, erected in
1845, crosses the Ouse a littie above Marygate, and affords communication
for foot passengers between the two lines of rails.
The Improvements and Alterations of late years have almost changed the
appearance of the city. Streets have been widened, new streets formed, and
many handsome buildings erected. At the Assizes of 1852, Lord Chief
Justice Campbell, in his charge to the city grand jury, complimented the
inhabitants on the great improvements that had taken place in York within
the last few years, and especially noticed the beautiful grounds attached to
the Museum, and which he thought were not surpassed by any on the con-
tinent of Europe.
Mortality. — ^In former years York does not appear to have been so healthy
a place of residence as many others, owing to defective drainage, and to the
narrowness and irregularity of the streets. As we have shown in the pre-
ceding pages, York was often grievously devastated by epidemics during the
middle ages. In 1849, the "black death;" and in the years 1890, 1550,
• Afterwards Earl of Zetland.
368 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YOBK.
and 1604, grievous plagues or pestilences numbered their victims bj thou-
sands. Mr. Davies tells us, in his work on the Municipal Beeords of the
City of York, that during the pestilence of 1660, it was ordered bj the Cor-
poration that aU infected houses should have a red cross on their doors, and
that all persons going abroad from such houses should carry a white rod.
But the Asiatic Cholera appears to have been less flEital here than in many
other places. It made its first appearance in Beedham*s Court, Skeldergate
— ^remarkable for being the place in which the plague first, broke out which
devastated the city in 1604 — on Sunday, the 8rd of June, 183d, and by the
22nd of October the disease had entirely disappeared. In the beginning of
July the malady had attained its height, when forty persons died in one
week. The total number of cases in York was 460, and the total of deaths
was 185. The malignity of the disease was, no doubt, considerably neutra-
lized by tlie admirable sanitary arrangements of the Board of Health, and
the unwearied exertions of the medical profession of York: — ^upwards of
£1,300., raised by subscription, having been expended by the board, in bread
and beef for the relief of the poor.
In 1849 the visitation was less severe, and in 1854 there was not more
than one or two real cases (if any) of Cholera in York. Dr. Laycock, in his
Report to the Commissioners for enquiring into the sanitary condition of
large towns, in 1864, says that '' the average or mean age of all dying in York
is six years and a half less than those dying in the countiy, and the deaths
from epidemics are more numerous.** The average rate of mortality appears
to be the greatest in the low lying districts of the city. The population of
York is now upwards of 36,000, and the average number of deaths in York
is about 1,200 per annum.
Sanitary Measures, — ^The sanitary condition of York has undergone con-
siderable improvement of late years, and a system of thorough drainage is
now being carried out, under the direction of the Local Board of Health.
One main sewer has lately been made through the heart of the city ; be-
ginning at Monk Bar, and passing through Goodramgate, Church Street, St.
Sampson*s Square, Feasegate, and Market Street, and crossing Coney Street
it enters the Ouse at Waterloo Place. This great sewer varies in depth from
fifteen to thirty feet. Several sewers of a similar character are being made
in other parts of the city. They are all egg-shaped, and built with radiating
bricks, made expressly for this work. This extensive drainage of the city
will cost the city several thousand pounds, but it will be a great boon to
generations yet unborn.
Ths Drainage of the Foss, which has recently been decided upon, is another
HISTORY OF THE CITT OF TORK. 360
excellent sanitaiy measure. Hitherto this river has been a great elongated
cesfl-pool for a great part of the city, and its immediate neighbourhood was in
consequence rendered veiy unwholesome. In 1863 the river was purchased
for £4,000. by the Corporation, for the purpose of making sewers for taking
the drainage of that part of the city which flowed into it, and conveying it
into the Ouse. An Act of Parliamait was obtained for this purpose, as well
as for empowering the Corporation to drain the marshy land on the banks of
the river, called the Fo$s Islandt. According to the terms of the Act, the
river Foss must be kept open, so that its navigation will not be interrupted.
Several plans for the drainage of the river were submitted, examined, and
r^ected by the Corporation, till at length at the meeting of that body on the
ISth of February, in the present year (1655), they adopted the recommend-
ation of Mr. Wicksteed, an eminent surveyor, that a line of intercepting
sewers be constructed on the land for the drainage of the Foss district, com-
mencing at the extreme boundary of the city near the Union Workhouse,
passing Monk and Layerthorpe bridges, thence across Walmgate and George
Street, to Fishergate, and thence to the Blue bridge on the New Walk, the
sewage matter to be conveyed into the centre of the river Ouse, by means of
an iron pipe ; also, to construct a sewer, commencing in Fossgate, crossing
the Foss Islands, and proceeding to St George*s Terrace, where it will join
the drain alluded to above. The estimated cost of the intercepting sewer is
about £8,600., and should a drain be formed, in addition, for the Foss Islands,
a further sum of £8,500. will be required. These plans, which are to be
carried out without delay, appear well calculated to promote the sanitary
improvement of the city.
Another great sanitary measure lately carried into effect is the abolition of
intramural interment in the city. All the burial grounds and vaults, in
connection with the churches and chapels in York, have been closed, except
the place of interment of the Society of Friends and the new part of the
church yard of St Lawrence ; the former is to be closed from and after the
Ist of August, 1855, and the latter is allowed to continue as a burial place,
in consequence of a piece of ground having been but lately added to the
church yard. It is however ordered that this new ground "be properly
drained, and no more than one body is to be buried in each grave, nor with
a covering of less than four and a half feet of earth, measuring from the
upper surface of the coffin to the level of the ground."
This great change has been made by order of the Secretary of State,
in virtue of the powers given to him by a recent Act of Parliament The
Order in Council directs that from and after the 88rd of December, 1854,
3 B
370 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
*' no new burial ground shall be opened in the city of York, or within two
miles of its boundary, without the previous approval of one of her Majesty's
principal Secretaries of State ; and that burials in the said city be discon-
tinued ** from the above date, with the modifications already stated.
The greatest necessity appears to have existed in York for the closing of
tlie burial grounds. Dr. Laycock, a very competent judge in the matter,
plainly shews, in his Report to the Health of Towns* Commissioners, the
e\al consequences of the practice of intramural burial in the city. " The
state of the parochial burying grounds of York," he says, "must have a
considerable and noxious influence on the atmosphere within the churches,
and on tli»at of the city generally, and on the water. The greater number of
these grounds are of extreme antiquity, and must have been buried over very
oft^n. In fact, many of them are raised above the street level from the accu-
mulated remains of generations. The analysis of the water from wells near St-
Cuthbert's and St. Sampson's church yards, shows that the wells are tainted
by the drsunage from these burj'ing grounds, and there can be no doubt that
tlie air is also polluted, not only by the direct emanations, but as well from
the drainage from the bodies in the public sew^ers."
In ecclesiastical affairs the County of York is in the province of York,
and until a few years ago was partly in the diocese of Chester, and partly
in that of York. The former part consisted of the deaneries of Richmond,
Catterick, and Boroughbridge, with part of Kirby Lonsdale, all in the arch-
deaconry of Richmond ; and the latter of the deaneries of Cleveland, Ridale,
Bulmer, Ripon, and Ripon with Masham (a peculiar jurisdiction), all in
the archdeaconry of Cleveland; all the deaneries of Dickering, Buckrose,
Harthill and II uU, and Holderuess, all in the archdeaconry of the East
Riding ; and the deaneries of Craven, York, Ainsty, York city, Pontefract,
and Doncaster, all in the archdeaconry of York, or West Riding. By order
in Council, of date 6th of October, 1836, those parts of the county previously
in the diocese of Chester, together with the deaneries of Ripon, Ripon with
Masham, Craven, and parts of York, Ainsty, and of Pontefract, have, vdth
the consent of the Archbishop of York and the Bishop of Chester, been trans-
ferred from their respective dioceses, in order to form the new diocese of
HISTORY OF THE ARGIIDIOCESK OF YORK. J57 I
Ripen. The Province of York now comprises the bishoprics of Carlisle,
Chester, Durham, Sodor and Man, Ripon, and Manchester. It formerly
included the whole of Scodand, but Pope Sixtus IV., at the end of the 15 th
century, granted the Primacy of Scotland to the Bishop of St. Andrews. The
diocese of York extends over the county of York, except such parts as have
been included in the diocese of Ripon.
Under the Archbishop, ecclesiastical matters are conducted by Archdeacons,
an officer first introduced into this diocese by Thomas the Norman in 1070.
Before the Conquest the Saxon prelates sat in the courts for the administra-
tion of justice with the Earls and Sherififs; but the Conqueror separated the
ecclesiastical from the civil jurisdiction, by enacting *' that no Bishop or
Archdeacon should in future hold ecclesiastical pleas in the Hundred Co^rt,
nor suffer any cause of a spiritual nature to come under the cognizance of
secular persons." Dr. HeyUn tell us that the archbishopric of York is the
most ancient metropoHtan See in England, having been so constituted in the
reign of King Lucius, in the year 180. But it is certain that Christianity
was not practised, if even known, in the north of England in the beginning
of the seventh century. When Edwin, the Saxon King of Northumbria,
embraced the Christian religion, and in some measure introduced it into the
northern parts of Britain, he was baptized by Paulinus at York, in a smaU
wooden oratory erected for the occasion, there being no place of Christian
worship in this city at that time. This monarch afterwards established, or
according to some, re-established the archbishopric, and Paulinus was made
Archbishop. The Archbishop of York is Primate and Metropolitan of Eng-
land, and to him attaches the honour of crowning the Queens of England,
and of preaching the coronation sermon. Warm and repeated contentions
existed for many centuries for ecclesiastical supremacy between the Arch-
bishops of York and Canterbury. In Sir Francis Palgrave s " Truths and
Fictions of the Middle Ages — The Merchant and the Friar," there is a
curious account of the predicaments in which my Lord of Canterbury used
to place my Lord of York, when the latter went to London ; and of the re-
taliation made by my Lord of York, when his spiritual brother came into
the north, The dispute on this point was however settled in the reign of
Edward m., by the Archbishop of Canterbury being styled " Primate of
All England ;" and the Archbishop of York, " Primate of England," which,
though it seems **a distinction without a difference," really gave the su-
premacy to his Grace of Canterbury. The Archbishop of York, who is also
Lord High Almoner to the Queen, takes precedency of all Dukes who are
S7d HISTORY OF TU£ AfiCHDIOCESE OF TOBK.
not of the blood royal, and of all the chief officers of state, the Lord High
Chancellor alone excepted.
The total number of benefices returned in the diocese of York, in 1838, was
690 ; the incumbents in 976 of which were non-resident. According to the
Cleiigyman's Almanack for the past year, the number of benefices in the
diocese is 878, of which number 344 had glebe houses.
The yearly tenths of the archbishopric of York, as returned in the survey
made by the commissioners appointed by the Grown in the reign of Henry
VJXl., on the eve of the Reformation, were valued at £161. ; and the value
of the living, as stitted in the King*8 Books of the same date, was £1,610.
The average gross yearly income of the Archiepiscopal See in 1831, was
£18,798. ; net yeaiiy income, £12,639.* By order in Council, of date dlst
of June, 1837, the income of the fuJbwr€ Archbishc^s of York is limited to
£10,000. per annum.
The ecclesiasticaL establishment in connection with the Cathedral, consists
of an Archbishop, Dean, Chancellor, Precentor, Sub-Dean, Sucoentor, 3 Arch-
deacons, 4 Canons Residentiary, 24 Prebendaries or non-resident Canons, a
Chancellor of the Diocese, a Sub-Chanter, 4 Vicars Choral, 7 Lay Clerks,
6 Choristers, an Organist, and other officers.
The Deanery of York was instituted by Archbishop Thomas, in 1090. The
Dean, who is next to the Archbishop in rank, is elected by the Chapter,
invested with a gold ring, and installed by the Precentor. The next in
dignity in the Precentor, or Chanter, an office which also was founded in
1090. The duty of this dignitary is to superintend the choir, and install
every person presented to any dignity in the church. The next in order is
the Chancellor of the Church, He has the custody of the seal of citations,
collates to grammar schools, &c. His office was founded a short time before
the deanery. The College of the Vicars-Chcral was founded by Archbishop
* The following is the substance of the schemes and decrees to which the EccUnoi-
tical Commi8ti(mer$ of England obtained the sanction of the King in 1836 : — That all
parishes which are locally situated in one diocese, and under the jurisdiction of another,
be made subject to that See, within which they are locally situated ; that certain new
dioceses should be created, and that such appointment or exdiange of ecdesiastieal pa-
tronage should be made among the Archbishops and Bisho]>8, so as to leave an average
yearly income of jCI 5,000. to the Archbishop of Canterburj'; JB 1 0,000. to the Archbishop
of York; JBI 0,000. to the Bishop of liondon ; jE8,000. to the Bishop of Durham ; ^,000.
to the Bishop of Winchester ; £5,000. to the Bishops of Ely, Worcester, and Bath and
Wells, respectively; ^,200. to the Bishop of St Asaph and Bangor; and tliat out of the
funds arising in the said dioceses, over and above the said incomes, the commissioners
should grant such stipends to the other Bishops, as should make their average annual
incomes not less than £4,000., nor more than £5,000.
HI8T0BY OF THE ABCHDI0CE8E OF YORK. 373
Walter de Grey, in lS5d, and at present consists of five members, who per-
form the musical part of the daily services of the choir.
The Chapter, which is composed of the Dean, and the four Residentaries,
under the title of the *' Dean and Chapter of York" is the ruling body of the
Cathedral establishment. The Archbishop has the power of holding visi-
tations of their alfoirs. The Archbishop has the patronage of the Archdea-
conries, the Chancellorships, Precentorships, the Non-Besidentiary Canonries,
and fifty-three benefices. The Dean has the patronage of eleyen benefices,
and a revenue of £1,360. The Dean and Chapter have the patronage of the
Residentiary and Minor Canons, with twenty-three benefices, and possess a
revenue of £lfi60., divided into six shares, of which one is reserved for
minor salaries. The Residentiaries must be chosen out of the Prebendaries.
At the Reformation the yearly tenths of the deanery were valued at £30.
17s. Of d. and the living, which is in the gift of the Crown, at £307. 10s. 7|d.
The deanery has the rectories of Pocklington, Pickering, and Kilham, of
which the Dean is patron and ordinary.')' He likewise presents to Thornton,
Ebberston, Ellerbume, Bamby Moor, and Hayton vicarages.
The Sub-Chanter and four Minor Canons form a corporate body, with a
revenue of £669., which is equaUy divided amongst them. The Treasurer-
ship, erected in the year 1090, was dissolved and made a lay fee by King
Edward VL, as were also the prebends of Wilton and Newthorpe, annexed
thereto. It is understood that about £3,000. is applicable yearly to the
repairs of the Cathedral and maintenance of its services.
The Amu of York Cathedral were anciently, azure, a staff in pale or, sur-
mounted by a paU argent firinged as the second, charged with five crosses
pattee fitched sable, in chief another such a cross or. These arms are im-
paled in some of the windows of the church, with the arms of Archbishops
Bowett, Rotheram, and Savage ; but they have since been changed for tlds
bearing, Gtdes, two keys in saltire argent, in chief a crown imperial or, with
the mitre. The crown was added to the shield on account of York having
once been an imperial city.
Origin of Tithes. — Festus informs us that the ancients offered to their
gods the tithes of all things, and this seems to have been the means by
which religion was supported by all nations of antiquity. Parishes are
supposed to have been first formed by Archbishop Honorius, who flourished
* '* By an ancient custom of this church, the Dean of it was obliged for ever to feed
or relieve, at his deanery, ten iK>or people doily. — This was for the sotil of good Queen
Maud ; and for which purpose he had the churches of Kilham, Pickering, and Pock-
lington, annexed to his deanery.** — Drake,
374 HISTORY OF THE ABCHDIOCESE OF YOBK.
about 636,* as a necessary appropriatiou of ecclesiastical duties to certain
responsible pastors, and to prevent those irregularities which might and did
arise from the interference that frequently occurred by the intrusive visits
of strangers on the scene of other men's labours, to the manifest injury of
religion. In 673, Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury, convened a synod,
at which, amongst other regulations, this was agreed on : — NuUus Episco-
porum aUerivs invadat. In the first ages of Christianity, every man was at
liberty to contribute his tithes to what parish or church soever he pleased ;f
but this privilege served as an existing means whereby any pique against
the priest might be gratified by the alienation of his income. This incon-
venience therefore was obviated ; first, by the censures of the Council of
Calcuith; then by the famous charter of Ethelfwulf; and most effectually
by the laws of Edgar, which provided, that all tithes should be paid in the
parish where they arise. About the year 690, Ina, King of the West Saxons,
made a code of laws, the fourth section of which is as to the following pur-
port, " The first fruits of seeds or church due, arising from the product of
com, &c., are to be paid at the feast of St. Martin ; and let him that fails in
the payment forfeit 40s.," as Lambeth reads it; or, according to Sir Henry
Spelman, 608. ; and besides, pay the dues twelve times over. In the 62nd
section, *' Church dues are to be paid where the persons owing them dwell in
the midst of winter." These laws appear to be the first on record respecting
such maintenance for the church, and on this account are mentioned here.
The gifts and oblations which the primitive Christians, in their devotedness
and zeal for religion, made as acts of piety, were transformed by usage and
custom, into a right, and are now advanced into the firmer title of ordinance.
Hence modem lawyers say, that tithes are due of common right, as having
existed since the first establishment of churches, and made regular from the
division of parochial limits. In 1838, by Act of Parliament, certain tithe
commissioners were appointed to commute the tithes of England and Wales,
for a rent charge on the land, to vary according to the average price of com.
Queen Anne's Bounty. — From a very early period, every Bishop and
clergyman has been required to pay the amount of his first years incumbency
into a fund, called from thence First Fruits^ and every succeeding year as
long as he is in possession of the living, he has been required to pay one-
tenth part of his income into a fund, hence called The Tenths. In 1290, a
a valuation for this purpose was made of all the ecclesiastical livings in
England ; and the book containing that record is preserved in the Remem-
* Stow Chron., p. 77. f Blackstone's Comment., vol. i., p. 112.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 375
brancer's office, under the title of " Valor of Pope Nicholas IV." At the
time of the Reformation there was a law passed, that the first fruits and
tenths should be applied to the use of the state, and that any Bishop or
clergyman neglecting to pay those imposts into the public treasury, should
be declared an intruder into his living, and should forfeit double the amount ;
and, in order to ascertain the full amount, an accurate and full valuation was
made of all the ecclesiastical livings in England and Wales. Except during
a short period in the reign of Philip and Mary, the first fruits and tenths
continued to be paid into the public exchequer, till the reign of Queen Anne,
when that monarch, deploring the wretched condition of many of the poor
clergy, owing to the insufficiency of their livings, determined that the first
fniits and tenths of the livings of all the Bishops and clergy should be paid
into a fund, to be called Queen Anne's Bounty, and that the amount should
be appropriated to the augmentation of the livings of the poor clergy. As
there was no fresh valuation instituted in the time of Queen Anne, the first
fruits and tenths continue to be paid according to that made by Henry VHE.
in 1535, and which was registered in what is caUed the King's Books (lAber
Regis), to which, as well as to the augmentation from Queen Anne's Bounty,
we shall frequently refer in the accounts of church livings in this volume.
That this payment might not operate oppressively, the first year's income
was to be paid by four annual instalments, and all livings of small value were
entirely exempt, and hence called Discharged livings. The increase which
has taken place in the value of church livings since 1535 is enormous.
Sanctuary.* — ^York Cathedral was one of the churches that possessed the
great privilege of Sanctuary from a very early period. This privilege was
• This privilege was introduced into the Chrisdiin Church about the time of Con-
stantine. It hod its origin in the laws of Moses, who, at the divine command, ap-
pointed six cities of refuge, as a protection to the involuntary homicide against the
summary vengeance of his incensed pursuers. — Numb. c. 35. It was used also in pagan
times. Some particular trees in the Druidical grove were sanctuaries; and the altars
of idolatry were decorated with horns, which were always reputed a sanctuary for crime ;
so that even murderers, fleeing for safety to the horns of the altar, esteemed themselves
perfectly secure from the danger of apprehension until their crimes were legally inves-
tigated. This privilege having become quito a nuisance, through the number of the
vilest malefactors, who remained in the temples of the gods with impunity, and set at
defiance the operation of the laws ; Tiberius Caesar abolished the protection afforded by
these sanctuaries, and confined it to the two temples of Juno and Esculapius. By the
laws of the Saxon King Ina, a.d. 603, any person guilty of a capital crime, taking refuge
in a church, his life was spared, on condition that he made recompense to the friends
of the deceased, according to justice and equity; and if one who had merely incurred
the punishment of stripes took such refuge, his punishment was suspended.
876 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
possessed bj many of the churches, and when kept under proper restraint
was a public benefit, and moderated the rigour of the common law. It al-
lowed time for criminals to make restitution, and for the fjidsely accused to
proye their innocence, whilst without this respite they might have 8u£fered
immediate punishment or death. The Leuga, or privileged circuit, was com-
prehended within the circumference of a circle, of which the church was the
centre, and its limits were marked by stone crosses on the principal roads
leading to each of these "cities of refuge.**' The refugee, or grUhmany
generally arrived at the entrance to the church under the cloak of night, and
was admitted by the porter of the church or monastery into the porch or
GaUlee.\ In the morning a chapter was assembled to hear and record the
details of the case. The Sanctuary oath was then administered, and having
paid the customary fee for registering the circumstances of his crime, he was
seated in the fridstol, and permitted to remain within the precincts until he
-was fisivoured with an opportunity of compromising with his adversary; or in
case of murder with the surviving relations and friends of the unhappy suf-
ferer. " If a malefactor. Hying for refuge, was taken or apprehended within
the crosses, the party that took or had hold of them there did forfeit tuio
hundrgth ; | if he took him within the town he forfeited four htmdreth ; if
within the walls of the churchyard, then six htmdreth ; if within the church,
then twelve hundreth; if within the doors of the quire, then eighteen htmdreth,
besides penance as in case of sacrilege ; but if he* presumed to take him out
of the stone chair near the altar, called Fridstol, or from among the holy
relics behind the altar, the offence was not redeemable with any sum; but
• " The King's peace extended three mila, three furlong, three eecera bredie, nine fote,
nine scefta munda, nine here coma." — ^Wilk. Leg. Ang. Sax., p. 63. The remains of
three of these Sanctoaiy crosses may yet be seen in the neighbourhood of Beverley.
f Some of oar Cathedrals and great churches possess an appendage called the GatUee,
or OalUee porch, probably considered as a part of the edifice less sacred than the rest,
where preliminaries to admission, as in baptism, the churching of women, Ac, were
performed; and where great sinners doing public penance were exposed before being
receiyed back into communion with the church. In conventual churches this appendage
was "a small gallery or balcony open towards the nare of the church, fit>m which
visitors, or the family of the Abbot, with whose residence it communicated, might riew
processions. Here also the female relatives of the monks were permitted to have inter-
views with them. From this last circumstance. Dr. Milner explains the origin and
derivation of the appellation. On a woman's applying for leave to see a monk, her
relation, she was answered in the words of scripture, " he goeth before you into Galilee,
there you shall see him.** — ^Britton's Archit. Ant, vol. v.. Appendix xlii.
X Mr. Staveley, on the aathority of Bichard, Prior of Hagnlstad, says that the Mm-
dreth oontained ^htpoundi.
HI8T0BT OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
877
was then become sine emendatione boteles, and nothing but the utmost se-
verity of the ofifended church was to be expected, by a dreadful excommuni-
cation, besides what the secular power would impose for the presumptuous
misdemeanor."* The Fridstol, that ia, freed stool, was a chair of refuge and
safety from the immediate infliction of punishment for any crime whatsoeyer.f
6y a statute enacted in the 9th of Edward U. (1316), it was provided that
" 80 long as the criminals be in the church, they shall be supplied with the
necessaries of life." Whilst the nature and circumstances of his crime were
being investigated, the church continued its protection, and the culprit re-
mained in perfect safety within the limits of the Sanctuary ; and in all cases
the life of the crimmal was safe, for having taken the oath of fealty to the
head of the religious establishment, and being placed in the chair of peace,
he could compel his adversary to accept of a pecuniaiy compensation.
The places of Sanctuary in process of time became much abused, and
diverted from their original purpose ; and in the reign of Henry YIll. they
were entirely abolished.
A Chronological List of the Archbishops of York, from the establishment of
the See in the year 625, to the present time : —
ANGLO-SAXON DYNASTY.
No.
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
ARCHBISHOPS.
St. Paulinns
See vacant 34 yean.
Ceadda, or Chad
St. Wilfrid
Bosa
St Wilfrid (restored)
Bosa (restored)
St. John of Beverley . .
Wilfrid n
Egbert
Coena Albert
Eanbauld
Eanbanld 11
Conaeerftted.
625
666
669
678
686
691
705
718
731
767
780
797
Died
or Tranalated.
Contemporaneoiu Kings.
631
669
678
685
698
705
718
731
766
781
796
832
EdTvin.
Oswyn.
Alcfrid.
Egfrid.
Alcfrid.
Alcfrid.
Osred.
Osric.
CoBlwiilph.
Ethelwnld.
Edelrid.
Aired.
■i
► o
&
* Pegge. in Archieol., vol. viii., p. 44.
f The Fridstolf or chair of peace, occurs in the laws of Edgar, ca. 16. There were
formerly several of them in the northern parts of Britain; one of them occurs in the
charter of immunities renewed bj King Henry VII. to St. Peter's, York, where it is in-
terpreted ctUhedra quietudinii vel ptzcU. — ^Wilk. Leg. Anglo-Sax. Gloss., p. 403. The
fridstol was generally a stone chair or seat near the high altar, as an emblem of pro-
tection to the refugee. — Dugdale's Monast, vol. ii., p. 128. The ancient fridstol of
Beverley Sanctuary is still preserved in the Minster of that place.
8 0
378
HISTORY OF THE ABGHDIOCESE OF TORS.
No.
11
12
18
14
15
16
17
18
19
SO
21
22
23
24
ARCHBISHOPS.
25
26
27
28
29
80
31
82
38
34
35
36
37
88
89
40
41
42
Wulsius . . . ,
Wimund . . . ,
Wilfere . . . ,
Ethelbald .
Bedward . . .
Wulstan ...
Oscytell . . . .
Athelwald .
Oswald . . .
Adulfe
Wulstan II..
Alfrio Puttoc
Kinsius
Aldred .
CouMerated.
832
832
854
895
921
941
955
971
974
993
1003
1028
1050
1061
Died
ovTkmndftted.
832
854
895
920
940
955
971
971
993
1002
1023
1050
1060
1069
Contemporaneoua Kingi.
ANGLO-NORMAN DYNASTY.
Thomas
Gerard
Thomas II
Thorstan
St. William ^deprived in
1147)
Henry Mardac
St. William (restored) . .
1070
1100
1109
1119
1144
1148
1153
1100
1108
1114
1189
1147
1153
1154
SAXON UNE (RESTORED.)
Roger
See vacant 10 years,
Geofiry Plantagenet . .
See vacant 4 yean,
Walter de Grey
Sewal de Bovil
Godfrey de Keynton
Walter Giffard
William Wickwano . .
John le Romayne . . ,
Henry de Newark . .
Thomas de Gorbrigge
WiUiam de Grenfeld
William de Melton . .
• • • •
1154
1191
1215
1256
1258
1265
1279
1286
1296
1299
1305
1817
1181
1212
1255
1258
1264
1279
1285
1296
1299
1303
1315
1340
Egbert.
Egbert — ^E thelwulph .
Ethelbald-— Alfred.
Alfred.
Edward the Elder.
Athelstan — Edred.
Edwy — ^Edgar.
Edgar.
Edward the Martyr.
Ethelred II.
Ethel red II. — Sweyn.
Canute — ^Harold I. — Edw
the Confessor.
Edward the Confessor.
Edward the Confessor —
Harold H.— Willm. I.
William I. and IT.
Henry I.
Henry I.
Henry — Stephen .
Stephen.
Stephen.
Stephen.
Henry II.
Henry II.
Henry II. — Rich. I — John
John — Henry III.
Henry III.
Henry III.
Henry III.— Edward I.
Edwajrd I.
Edward I.
Edward I.
Edward I.
Edward I. and II.
Edward II. and m.
LANCASTRIAN LINE.
48 I William de la Zonohe
44 John de Thoresby . . .
45 Alexander Nevile . . ,
40 Thomas A^undall ...
47 Robert Waldby
48 Richard Scroope
49 Henry Bowet
60 John Kempe . . . . i . .
1842
1354
1874
1389
1397
1398
1405
1436
1352
1873
1388
1396
1396
1405
1428
1451
Edward m.
Edward III.
Edward III.~>Richard II.
Richard II.
Richard II.
Richard II.— Henry IV.
Henry IV. and V.
Hanry V. and VI.
HISTORY OF THB ARCBDI0GE8F. OF YORK.
879
HOUSE OF YOBK.
No.
ARCHBISHOPS.
ConMcratod.
Died
orTmulAtad.
CoBtamponmeoat Kings.
51
5a
58
54
William Booihe
George Neville
Lawrence Boothe
Thomas Scot de Bother-
ham . . . . . . . t 1 1 « . r .
1458
1465
1476
1460
1464
1476
1480
1500
Henry VT. Edward IV.
Edward IV.
Edward IV.
Edward IV. ^ V.— Bichd.
lU.--Henry VII.
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
Z5
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
HOUSE OF TUDOR.
Thomas Savage
Christopher Baynhrigge. .
Cardinid Thomas Wolsey
Edward Lee
Bohert Holgate
Nicholas Heath ,
Protestant Archbishops.
Thomas Toung
Edmund Grindall
Edwin Sandys
John Piers
Matthew Hatton
Tobias Matthew
Qeorge Montaigne . . . .
Samuel Harsnett . . . .
Richard Neill
John WUliams
See vacant 10 years.
Accepted Frewen ....
Bichard Sterne
John Dolben
Thomas Lamplugh
John Sharp
Sir William Dawes
Lancelot Blackburn ....
Thomas Herring
Mattiiew Hutton
John Gilbert
Bobert Hay Drummond . .
William Markham
Edward V. V. Harcourt. .
Thomas Musgrave
1501
1507
Henry VII.
1508
1514
Henry Vll. and VIII.
1514
1530
Henry VHI.
1531
1544
Heniy VIII.
1544
1553
Henry VIH.— Edw. VI.—
Mary.
1555
1558
Mary — Elizabeth .
1560
1568
Elizabeth.
1670
1576
Elizabeth.
1577
1588
Elizabeth.
1588
1594
Elizabeth.
1594
rSE OF {
1606
STUART.
Elizabeth — James I.
1606
1628
James I. — Charles I.
1628
1628
Charles I.
1629
1631
Charles I.
1632
1640
Charles I.
1642
1650
Charles I.
The Commonwealth.
1660
1664
Charles II.
1664
1683
Charles II.
1683
1686
Charles II. — James II.
1688
1691
William in.
1691
E OF BB
1713
.UNSWICK.
William 111. — ^Anne.
1714
1724
George I.
1724
1743
George I. and II.
1743
1747
George 11.
1747
1757
George II.
1757
1761
Lreorge 11. and III.
1761
1776
Oeorge 111.
1777
1807
George ill.
1808
1847
George III. ^ IV.— Wm.
1847
IV.— Victoria.
Victoria.
880
HISTORY OF THE ABGHD10CE8E OF YORK.
A list of tlie Deans of York, with the jear of their respectiTe creation : —
No.
2
:j
4
ft
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
10
30
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
20
30
31
32
33
;u
35
36
37
.38
30
40
41
42
43
44
45
DEANS.
Hugo
William de St. Barbara
Bobert de Gant
Robert BoteviUin
Hubert Walter
Henry Marshall
Simon de Apulia
Hamo
Boger de Insula
Geoffry de Norwych
Fulk Bassett
William
Walter de Kyrkhara
Sewal de Bovil
Godfrey de Ludham (or Keyu-
ton)
Boger de Holdemess
William de Langueton
Bobert de Scardeburgh
Henry de Newark
William de Hamelton*
Reginald de Gote, Cardinalis . .
William de Pykering
Bobert de Pykerings, P.C.L. . .
WiUiam de Colby
William de la Zouch
Philip de Weston
Tailerand Bp. of Albanen ....
John Anglicus, Cardinalis ....
Adam Eaaton, Cardinalis ....
Edmd. de Strafford, L.L.D. . .
Boger Walden
Richard Clifford, Bac. Leg
Thomas Langleyf
.John Prophete
Thomas Polton
William Grey, L.L.D
Robort Gilbert. S.T.P
WUliam Felter, Deo. Dr
Richard Andrews, L.L.D
Rol>ert Bothe, L.L.D
Christopher Urswyk. Dec. Dr. .
William Sheffield, Dec. Dr
Geoffrey Blythe, S.T.B
Christ. Baynbrigge, L.L.D
James Harrington
Appointed.
Temp. Will. n.
Temp. K. Step.
1144
1186
1180
1101
1214
12—
1235
1240
1244
124-
125-
1256
1258
126-
1270
1200
1208
1300
1310
1312
1332
1333
1347
135-
1366
1381
1385
130-
1308
1401
1407
1416
1421
1426
1437
1454
1477
1488
1404
1406
1503
1507
IMisd or RoBMfvda
Bishop of Durham 1142
Died 1186
Bishop of Salisbury 1180
Bishop of Exeter 1101
Bishop of Exeter 1214
Bishop of London 1244
Archbishop of York 1250
Archbishop of York 1256
Died 1270
Died 1200
Archbishop 1206
Died 1814
Died 1310
Died 1312
Archbishop 1340
Died
Deprived
Deprived
Archbishop of Canterbury 1808
Bishop of Worcester .... 1401
Bishop of Durham 1406
Died
Bishop of London 1426
Bishop of London 1437
Died
Resigned 1477
Died
Resigned 1404
Died
Bishop of Lichfield 1503
f Bishop of Durham .... 1507
(Archbishop of York ....1508
Died 1512
* Jan. 10. 130&, asnd Edw. I., this WillUm dr Hamdton had the great leal detivend to him aa Lord
Chaaedlor of England.— Tom, p. 556.
t In the year 1406 he waa constitoted Lord High Chancellor of England.— Drake, p. 664.
HISTORY OF THE ABCHDIOCESB OF YORK.
381
No.
46
47
48
49
50
51
62
58
54
55
50
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
DEANS.
Thomas Wolsey
John Toong
Brian Higden, L.LJ). . .
Richard Lay ton, L.L.D.
Nicholas Wotton, L.LJ).
Matthew Button
John Thornborgh, S.T.P
George Meriton, S.T.P
John Scott, S.T.P
Richard Marsh
WiUiam Saneroft
Robert Hitch, S.T.P
Tobias Wickham
Thomas Gale, S.T.P
Henry Finch, A-M
Richard Osbaldeston, S.T.P. . .
John Foantayne
George Markham
W. Cockbum,
Appointed.
1512
1514
1516
1589
1544
1567
1589
1617
1624
1660
1663
1664
1676
1697
1702
1728
1747
1802
1822
Died or Removed.
f Bishop of lincohi 1513
I Archbishop of York .... 1514
Died 1516
Died 1539
Died 1544
Died 1567
I Bishop of Durham .... 1589
\ Archbishop of York .... 1594
Bishop of Worcester .... 1617
Died 1624
Died 1644
Died 1663
Dean of St Paul's, London 1664
Died 1676
Died 1697
Died 1702
Died 1728
Carlisle 1747
Died 1802
Died 1822
ANNALS OF THE ARCHBISHOPS.— Gent, on the authority of Dr.
Heylin, tells us that King Lucius made this ancient See " a metropolitan," that
its first Bishop was Sampson, and its last British Bishop Tadiacus. ** Two
others," he continues, " are mentioned, as Taurinus and Pyrannus ; the last
of whom is said to have heen chaplain to the renowned King Arthur."* Li
his preface to his History of York, the same authority tells us that the name
of another British Bishop of York was Exuperius, if, as he says, we may
credit a late account, in 1729, " That a man at Stanton, in Northamptonshire,
threw up with his plough a large piece of plate, weighing seven pounds,
four square, with a large cup in the middle of it, having the following very
ancient inscription, Exuperius Episcopus EcelesiiB Ebojiense dediV* Gent
does not give us the name of his author, nor can we find any place named
Stanton in the county of Northampton. Eborius is the first Bishop of York
of whom we have what would appear to he authentic information. According
to some writers that prelate attended the Council of Aries, in a.d. 314 ; but
as we have seen at page 66, the authenticity of this statement is somewhat
doubtful. Of Eborius, the Centurists of Madgeburg give this testimony,
that he was a man, considering the age wherein he lived, many ways learned,
and most modest in his conversation ; that he wrote among other things,
one book to his own countrymen, touching this Council of Aries, and several
• Gent's Hist York, pp. 68, 69.
883 H18TOBT OF THE ABCHDIOCESE OF TOBK.
episdes to Hilary, Bishop of Poictiers, and that he was famous in the year
of grace d50.«
However, the first Archbishop of York appears to have been St. PauUntu,
who was celebrated in the Roman Martjrologj as the Apostle of the largest
and at that time the most powerful of the seven kingdoms of the Englidi
Saxons. But before we proceed to give a few particulars of the several
Archbishops that filled this See, we would remark with Mr. Camden that
many of them were renowned for their learning, piety, and virtue. Dr.
Heylin says, that from the See of York proceeded 8 canonized Saints, 3 Car-
dinals, Id Lord Chancellors, S Lord Treasurers, and 8 or 4 Lord Presidents
of the great Council of the North.
Id. 601 Pope Gregory the Great sent Pauhnus, with Melitius, Justus,
and others, to assist Augustine (who had been some time in England)
in preaching the truths of Christianity to the Saxons. Alban Butler tells
us that Gregory also sent "sacred vessels, altar cloths, and other orna-
ments for churches, vestments for priests, relics of the Apostles and Martyrs,
and many books, decreeing by letters, that when the northern comitries
should receive the faith, York should be appointed a Metropolitical See, in
like manner with Canterbury." After labouring for some time in Kent with
great zeal and piety, Paulinus was consecrated Bishop by St. Justus, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, on the 25th of July, 625. Edwin, the powerful King
of Northumberland, demanded the Princess Ethelburgha, or Ethelburge, of
Kent, but was answered by her brother King Eadbald, or Etbelbald, " that
a Christian maid could not lawfully marry an Idolater, lest the faith and its
mysteries should be profaned by the company of one who was a stranger to
the worship of the true God." Whereupon Edwin promised entire liberty
and protection with regard to her religion, and expressed his own favourable
disposition to the same.
The Princess proceeded to the north, accompanied by her confessor, Paul-
inus, who undertook to preach the gospel to the people of Noithumbria, and
as we have seen at page 85, the King, his son Osfrid, whom he had by a for-
mer wife, his niece Hilda, his whole court, and a multitude of the common
people, were baptised at York by Paulinus on the 12th of April, 627, being
Easter Day. Bede observes that churches and baptistries not being yet built
spacious enough for the crowds that fiocked to receive baptism, St Paidinus
baptised great numbers in the river Swale near Catterick, where the King's
palace stood, and which was anciently a great city, as appears from Ptolemy
• Magdeb. Cent iv., c. 10.
HIBTORT OF THE ABCHDI0GE8E OF TORE. 888
and others, tHoagh it is now only a small Tillage, with a hridge, called Cat-
terick Bridge.
After preaching and baptising for some time in the ancient kingdom of
Northambria, our zealous Bishop crossed the Humber, and preached the
faith to the inhabitants of Lindsey, in the kingdom of Mercia, and baptised
Bleeca, the Saxon Prince or Goyemor of Lincoln. At Lincoln he built a
church of stone, in which, after the death of St. Justus, he consecrated St.
Hosorius Archbishop of Canterbury. Pope Honorius sent a pallium "(^ to St.
Paulinus, as the northern metropolitan in Britain ; and in his letter of con-
gratulation with ICing Edwin upon his conversion, he decreed as follows : —
" As to what you desire concerning the ordination of your Bishops, we wil-
lingly agree to it; and we send palliums to your metropolitans, Honorius and
Paulinus, that whenever it shall please God to called either of them, the other
may ordain a successor for him by virtue of this letter."! St. Paulinus,
assisted by his Deacon, James, baptised a great multitude in the Trent, near
Tiouulfingacaester, which Camden and Smith take to have been Southwell, in
Nottinghamshire. The East-Angles also received the faith by the zeal of
Bt. Paulinus and King Edwin. This good King being slain in battle in 633,
with his son Osfrid, St. Paulinus conducted the Queen Etbelburgha into
Kent by sea, and at Liming she founded a nunnery, and took the veil.
Paulinus not being permitted to quit his royal charge, or return to York, and
the See of Rhofi, now Rochester, being then vacant, King Eadbald entreated
Archbishop Honorius to appoint him (Paulinus) Bishop thereof. James,
whom our Bishop left behind, took care of the distressed church of York, and
• The PaU, PoZZta, or Pallium, which the Pope sends to Archbishops, is an ornament
worn npon their shoulders, with a label hanging down the breast and back. It is made
of white lamb's wool, and spotted with purple crosses, *' and is worn," says the Rev. Alban
Batler, *' as a token of the spiritaal jarisdictlon of metropolitans over the churches of
their whole provlnoe. It is regarded," continues the same authority, " as an emblem of
humility, charity, and innocence, and serves to put the prelate in mind that he is bound
to seek out and carry home on his shoulders the strayed sheep, in imitation of Christ,
the Good Shepherd, and the Prince of Pastors." Cardinal Bona says the white lambs
are blessed on the festival of St. Agnes in her Convent at Rome, and fh>m that time kept
in some nunnery till they are shorn ; and of the wool are the paUiuma made, which are
kid over the tomb of St. Peter the whole night of the vigil before the feast of that
Apoetle. Archbishops only wear them in the churoh during the divine office. Spelman,
in his Glossary, Thomassin, &o., show that a palliam was a manUe worn by the Bom^a
Smperors, and that the first Christian Emperors gave this imperial ornament to eminent
Bishops, to wear as an emblem of the royalty of the Christian priesthood. It was after-
wards appropriated to ArchbishopB to show their dignity, and to command greater reapeot,
ae Ood preeorihed several ornaments to be wom by the Jewish high priest.
f Bede, 1, ft, c. 17.
884 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
baptised many living near Catterick-on-the-Swale, at a Tillage which after-
wards took his name, says Bede, where he died at a veiy advanced age.
St. Paulinus died at Rochester (where he was buried) on the 10th of
October, 644, having occupied the Archiepiscopal throne of York, from 635
to 633, and been Bishop of Rochester eleven years.* After the death of
King Edwin, the Northumbrians relapsed into idolatry; but, as we have seen
at page 87, St. Oswald obtained St. Aidan, an Irish monk of Hij, for Bishop,
and by him the faith was planted again in that kingdom. The See of York
was vacant for about 34 years, during 17 years of which St. Aidan governed
all the churches of Northumbria. He arrived in the kingdom in 635, and
received the Isle of Lindisfame, where he fixed the episcopal chair, and
erected a monastery. From this institution all the churches of Bemicia, or
the northern part of the kingdom of the Norihumbers, from the Tyne to the
Frith of Forth, had their beginning ; as had some also of those of the Deira,
who inhabited the southern part of the same kingdom, from the Tyne to the
Humber. St. Aidan died in 651. Finan and Colman, his countrymen,
succeeded him, and had all the kingdom of Northumberland for their diocese.
St. Ceadda, or Chady was the second Archbishop of York. He was brother
to St. Cedd, Bishop of London, or of the East Saxons, and was educated in
the monastery of Lindisfame, under St. Aidan. For his greater improvement
in sacred letters he passed into Ireland, and spent a considerable time in the
company of St. Egbert, tiU he was called back by his brother St. Cedd, to
assist him in settling the monastery of Lastingham, which he had founded in
the mountains of the Deira, that is, the Wolds of Yorkshire ; and when St.
Cedd was made Bishop of the East Saxons, St Chad succeeded him as Abbot
of Lastingham. Alfred, or Alcfrid, King of Deira, or the southern part of
the kingdom of the Northumbers, sent St. Wilfrid into France, that he
might be consecrated to the Bishopric of his kingdom, or of York ; but he
stayed so long abroad, that Oswy, the father of Alfi:«d, and King of Ber-
nicia, nominated St. Chad to that dignity, and he was ordained by Wini,
« King Edwin, and his Queen Ethelburge, as well as PanUnas, have been canonized
by the church, and are consequently styled SaifU$. St. Edwin is honoured with the
title of lilartyr in the Martyrology of floras, and in all our English calendars. Speed,
in his catalogue, mentions an old church in London, and another at Breve, in Somer-
setshire, of both which St. Edwin was the titular patron. William of Malmsbury and
Alford has inserted, ad. ann. 682, the letter of Pope Honorins to this sainted King,
which is also extant together with his letter to Honorins, Archbishop, of Ganterbary, in
Bede, and Cone, t. yi. For farther particulars respecting SS. Paulinas and Edwin, see
page 84 of this history. The relics of St. Ethelborge were honoured with those of St.
Edburg at liming Monasteiy. Lei. Collect., t. i. ^
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 385
Bishop of Winchester, assisted by two British prelates, in 666. Bede as-
sures us that he zealously devoted himself to all the laborious functions of
his charge, visiting his diocese on foot, preaching the gospel, and seeking
out the poorest and most abandoned persons to instruct and comfort in the
meanest cottages, and in the fields. Jaruman, the fourth Bishop of the
Mercians, dying, St Chad was called upon to take upon him the charge of
that most extensive diocese. He fixed the See of Mercia at Lichfield, so
called from a great number of martyrs slain and buried there under Maxi-
mianus Herculeus ; the name signifying the Field of Carcases ; and hence
this city bears for its arms a landscape, covered with the bodies of martyrs.
St Chad governed his diocese of Lichfield for two years and a half, and died
in the great pestilence, on the 2nd of March, 673.
SL Wilfrid, the next prelate, was bom in the kingdom of Northumberland
towards the year 634. At the age of 14 he was sent to the monastery of
Lindisfame, that he might be trained up in the study of the sacred sciences.
A desire of greater improvement than he could attain at this house caused
him to travel through France and Italy, visiting the most famous monasteries
in his way, the better to instruct himself in the rules of Christian perfection.
At Eome he contracted a friendship with Boniface, the Archdeacon, who
was a very pious and a very learned man ; as well as secretary to St. Martin,
the then reigning Pontiff. The Archdeacon took much delight in instructing
young Wilfrid, and at length he presented him to the Pope. On his return
from Rome he stayed three years at Lyons, and received the ecclesiastical
tonsure from the Archbishop, St. Delphinius, who desired to make him his
heir ; but the good prelate was put to death at Challons-upon-the-Saone by
the order of Ebroin, in 658. Alchfnd, the King of Deira, being informed
that Wilfrid, who had just returned from his tour, had been instructed in the
discipline of the Eoman Church, sent for him, and finding him well versed
in the several customs of that church, fie conjured him to continue with him,
to instruct him and his people in ecclesiastical discipline. This Wilfrid con-
sented to, and the Piincp entered into an intimate friendship with him, and
gave him land at Ripon to found a monastery upon, which the Saint after-
wards governed. At the request of Alchfnd, he was ordained priest by
Agilberct, Bishop of the West Saxons, in 663, in the monastery of Ripon.
This Bishop having stated that a person of such merit as Wilfrid ought to be
promoted to a bishopric, and Alchfrid being anxious that WilMd should be
placed in the episcopal See of York, sent him some time after to France to
be consecrated at the hands of Agilberct, who returned to France, which was
his native country, and where the bishopric of Paris was given him. Wilfrid
3 D
386 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
being absent a long time on this journey, Oswy caused St. Ccadda or Chad,
Abbot of Lastiugham, a disciple of St. Aidan, to be ordained Bishop. Agii-
beret joyfully received Wilfrid, and with twelve other Bishops consecrated
him wiUi great solemnity at Compeigne iu 664 ; he being then in the SOth
year of his age. At his return into England he would not dispute the elec-
tion of St. Chad, but retired to Ripon, which monastery he made his residence
for three years. St. Theodorus, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his visitation,
found the election of St Chad to have been irregular, and removed him ; but
charmed with his humility and virtue, placed him in the See of Lichfield.
At the same time he put St. Wilfrid in possession of the See of York in 699.
Being a man of most persuasive oratory and strict virtue, he prdtnoted every
where religion and piety with incredible success. The monastic state was a
principal object of his care, and this he settled among the midland and
northern Enghsh, as St. Augustine had established it in Kent. But Wilfrid's
day of trial and persecution is at hand ; court envy, jealousy, and resent-
ment are the secret springs which are about to put in motion the engines that
were employed against him, through the simplicity or ignorance of many, the
malice of some, and the complaisance and condescension of others. Being the
best skilled in sacred learning, and in the canons of the chiurch in all Britain,
as St. Theodorus, on his death-bed, acknowledged him to be, he was too great
a disciplinarian for some at court. King Egfrid and his Queen Ermenburga
took a dislike to him ; and the latter employed every base means to ruin him
in the opinion of her husband. In order to undermine him, a project was
set on foot for dividing his bishopric, after the good prelate had spent ten
years in settling Christianity in it. Theodorus, the Archbishop of Canter-
bury, and Metropolitan of all England, was gained by specious pretences, and
he parcelled this great diocese into three portions, and consecrated Bosa to
the See of York, for the Deira, in 678 ; Eata to that of Lindisfame, for Ber-
nicia ; and Eadhed to the church of Lindiswaras, a great part of Lincoln-
shire, which Egfnd had won from Mercia.^^ Wilfrid, for opposing this
partition, was rejected ; but being well versed in the canons, he saw the
irregularity and nullity of many steps that had been taken against him ; and
he appealed to the Pope, and embarked for Rome without raising any clamour,
lest a disturbance or a schism might arise. Being driven by contrary winds
at sea upon the coast of Friesland, he W8is moved to compassion upon seeing
the spiritual blindness and idolatry of the inhabitants, and he preached
among them during that winter and the following spring ; and converted and
• Johnson's Collect of English Canons, an. 679, pref.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 387
baptised many thousands, with several lords of the country. Wilfred is
honoured to this day as the Apostle of that country.
Next summer Wilfrid leaving his new converts under the direction of proper
pastors, he travelled through Austrasia, where King Dagobert II. entreated
him to fill the bishopric of Strasburg, which happened then to be vacant.
This honour he refused, and he arrived in Rome late in the year 679, as the
Pope was preparing to hold a great Council against the Monothelites. In the
meantime, to discuss this cause of St Wilfrid*s, the Pope assembled a Synod
in October, 679, in the Lateran Basilica, or Church of Our Saviour, con-
sisting of above fifty Bishops and Priests, chiefly of the Suburbicarian
Churches. The causes of the dissension in the British Church having been
weighed, it was decreed that there should be in it one Archbishop honoured
with the paU, who should canonically ordain the Bishops of the other Sees ;
but that none of the Bishops should presume to meddle with the rights of
any other prelate, but all should study to instruct and convert the people.
After this St Wilfiid was admitted to the Council, and having presented his
petition in person, it was definitely decreed that he should be restored to his
bishopric. St. Wilfrid stayed about four months at Home, and assisted at
the great Lateran Council of 125 Bishops, in which he, with the rest, con-
demned the Monothelite heresy.
When he arrived in England, and showed to the King the sealed decrees
of the Pope, that Prince declared that they had been obtained by bribery, and
commanded a certain steward of the church for secular affiurs to commit
Wilfrid to prison, where he was detained for nine months. On being released
from prison, he repaired to the kingdom of the South Saxons, which had not
yet received the light of faith, and there by his preaching converted the whole
nation. King Egfiid was slain in battle by the Picts in 686 ; St. Wilfirid
was called back to Northumberland towards the end of the year 686 ; and
the monasteries of Hexham and Ripon, and the episcopal See of York, were
restored to him ; Bosa of York, and St John of Beverley, at Hexham, re-
linquishing their Sees to him. Theodorus had first parcelled the bishopric
of York into three, and afterwards into five bishoprics ; and St. Wilfiid, after
his restoration, reduced Hexham and Ripon to their original condition of
mere monasteries. But a new storm arose against him. King Alcfiid, the
successor of Egirid, would have a new bishopric erected at Ripon. St. Wil-
frid opposed the project, and was obliged once more to fly, in 691, Ave years
after he had been restored. He retired to Ethelred, King of the Mercians,
who received him most graciously, and entreated him to take upon himself
the See of Lichfield, which was 4;hen vacant. Our Saint founded many
388 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
monasteries and churches in Mercia ; hut finding his enemies in North um-
herland had gained Brithwald, Archhishop of Canterhury, and were soliciting
a sentence of deposition against him, he appealed a second time to Rome, and
took another journey thither in 708. His accusers appeared there against
him, hut Pope John YI. honourably acquitted him. Uis very enemies had
always acknowledged his life to be irreproachable ; and a Bishop cannot be
deposed unless a canonical fault be proved against him in a Synod. St
Wilfrid met at Rome with that protection and applause which were due to
his heroic virtue. Pope John, in 704, sent letters by an express messenger
to the Kings of Mercia and Northumberland in favour of the persecuted
Bishop, charging Archbishop Brithwald to call a Synod, which should do
him justice; and in default of which, he ordered the parties to make their
personal appearance at Rome. St. Wilfrid returned to England, and took
possession of the diocese of Hexham, but chiefly resided in his monastery of
Ripon, leaving York to St. John of Beverley. He governed the monasteries
in Mercia, of which he had been the founder, and which were afterwards de-
stroyed by the Danes. He died at one of these at Undalum, now called
Oundle, in Northamptonshire, on the 24th of April, 709, and his body was
buried in his church of St. Peter at Ripon. That monastery having been
destroyed by the wars, the greater part of his remains was translated to Can-
terbury. St. Wilfrid's modesty is remarkable in never soliciting the metro-
political jurisdiction, which St. Gregory had ordained should be settled at
York, and which had been granted to St. Paulinus. It had failed in the
Bishops who resided at Lindisfame ; but was recovered, in 734, by Egbert,
brother to Eadbright or Eadbert, King of Northumbria.
Bosa, who was, according to Bede, a man of great sanctity and humility,
occupied the See of York from 678 to 685, and from 698 to his death, which
occurred in 705. He was the first prelate buried in the Cathedral of York.
St, John of Beverley. — This illustrious prelate was bom of a noble Saxon
family, at Harpham on the Wolds, near Driffield, in or about the year
r»40. His father contributed much to prevent the utter ruin of Christi-
anity in the places where lay his territorial possessions. It is recorded by
lk>dp, that an earnest desire to qualify himself for the service of God drew
liira into Kent, where he was a pupil in the famous school of St. Theo-
doras, or Theodore, the Archbishop of CantiTbury, who was a native of
the Grecian city of Tarsus.* "At a period when learning was in its in-
fancy," says the lenmod author of Beverlac,\ " the arrival of Theodore with
• Bpde's Eccles, Hist., Ub. y., c. 2. f p. 28,
HI8T0BT OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YOBK. 889
his companion Adrian, on the shores of England, was a most auspicious
event Both these men were eminently qualified for tutors, from their
thorough knowledge of sacred and profane literature, as well as of the Latin
and Greek languages. Theodore*s visit to the Northumbrian court of Egfrid,
which occasioned the division of the former extensive diocese of York, pro-
bably led to John's proceeding to Kent. The spirit of emulation excited
among the Saxon youth, had drawn a crowd of pupils to the school of Can-
terbury, and John was distinguished as one of Theodore's most eminent
pupils." St John afterwards returned to his own country, and entered the
monastery of men, under St. Hilda, at Streaneshalch, now Whitby, where
he exercised himself in studying the Holy Scriptures, and in the practice of
other works of religious piety. During the absence of St. Wilfrid, and the
convulsions which agitated the episcopal church of Northumbria, John suc-
ceeded £ata, as Bishop of Hagulstad, now Hexham ; and there his splendid
talents had full scope for their exercise. Bede, the venerable historian of
the Anglo-Saxon church, the pupil and biographer of this prelate, and from
whom he (Bede) received the holy orders of deacon and priest, gives ample
testimony of his sanctity, learning, and zeal. As an instructor of youth he
was far famed, and many of his pupils afterwards attained to great eminence.
As he advanced in life he dedicated himself more exclusively to his clerical
duties, and travelling about as a missionary, instructed the rude and ignorant
multitude in the duties and doctrines of the gospel. The state of the church
was at that time widely different from what it is now. There was then no
division into parishes, no resident ministry. The clergy of each diocese
resided with his Bishop, in what was called the episcopal monastery ad-
joining the Cathedral, and were sent out by him to the different churches of
his diocese, as he had opportunity, and as the necessities of the people re-
quired. In this toilsome but useful occupation, John laboured with distin-
guished zeal and diligence, as well as eminent successs. At a subsequent
period he betook himself to a life of solitude, and lived for some time as a
hermit in the neighbourhood of Hexham. At the death of Bosa, Archbishop
of York, John was selected by the Synod to supply his place, and he was
solemnly installed by his friend and former tutor St. Theodore, in 687. He
now held the Archiepiscopal See of York, and the Bishopric of Hexham, and
this distinguished position speaks loudly of the estimation in which his virtues
were held. He employed his time in personally visiting the churches, and
with most laudable and indefatigable attention, he conciliated the affections
of his pagan opposers, and brought many of them into the fold of Christianity.
390 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
Miracles innumerable, too, were attributed to his holy agency. He was
neither luxurious nor ambitious, and he took no part in the disputes which
at that period agitated the Christian church, but on the contraiy, he was
humble in his deportment and manner of life, and unassuming in his general
conduct Soon after St. John^s advancement to the See of York, Wilfrid
returned from Rome in triumph to his diocese, and John, with a spirit of
Christian meekness tendered his resignation, which Wilfrid was not per-
mitted to accept But on the reconciliation of the latter with the Bishops in
705, he resigned to him the Bishopric of Hexham.
The zeal of our good prelate now expanded itself, and Christianity b^an
to assume a more flourishing appearance in the north, under his benign
auspices. He extended his visitations to every part and comer of the pzx>-
vince, and superintended the buHding and reparation of churches, and the
foundation of monasteries. In one of his visitations he came to a spot now
called Beverley, and finding it suitable for the holy offices of prayer and
meditation, he resolved to erect there a religious establishment. He accor-
dingly erected a monastery at Beverley for black monks, and an oratory for
nuns. In 718, being much worn out with age and fatigues, St. John re-
signed his Bishopric to his chaplain Wilfrid the younger, and having conse-
crated him Bishop of York, he retired to Beverley, where he spent the
remaining four years of his life in the punctual performance of all monastic
duties, and where he died, on the 7th of May, 721, fuU of years, and with
his memoiy overshadowed by the benedictions of mankind. His body was
buried in the porch (porticus) of the church of Beverley. His relics were
translated into the church, by Alfric, Archbishop of York, in 1087 ; and a
feast in honour of his translation was kept at York on the d5th of October.
On the Idth of September, 1664, the sexton, in digging a grave. in the
church of Beverley, discovered a vault of freestone, in which was a box of
lead yielding a sweet smell, with inscriptions by which it appeared that these
were the mortal remains of St John of Beverley.* These relics had been
hid in the beginning of the reign of King Edward VI. Dugdale and Stevens
testify that they were all re-interred in the nave of the same church. King
Henry V. attributed to the intercession of this Saint, the glorious victory of
Agincourt, on which occasion a Synod, in 1416, ordered his festival to be
solemnly kept over all England.t Henschenius, the Bolandist, has published
• Dagdale'8 History of the Collegiate Church of Beverley, p. 57.
f See Lynwoode, Provinoiale, 104.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF TOBK. 391
four books of the miracles wrought at the relics of St. John of Beverley,
written by an eye witness.*
Wilfrid II. governed this diocese fifteen years, " and was a great lover of
the beauty of God's house." This prelate began the contention for prece-
dency between York and Canterbury, which for many subsequent years
continued to disturb the church. He died or was translated in 731.
Egbert^ 731. — He was brother to Eadbert, King of Northumbria, and
the tutor and friend of Alcuin, a learned monk of York, and author of several
works, including a poem on the saints of the diocese. Egbert, according to
Bede, was still more eminent for his superiority in knowledge than for his
high birth. • As has been already observed, the metropolitical jurisdiction of
the See of York was recovered by this prelate in 734. He died on the 13th
of November, 766, and was buried in the church porch of the Cathedral,
near his brother King Eadbert.
Albert, Elbert, or Adelhert, the next Archbishop, was a native of York, and
was consecrated in 767. Archbishops Egbert and Albert taught a great
school in the city of York, till they were successively placed in the Archie-
piscopal chair. When Albert succeeded Egbert in that dignity, he committed
to Alcuin the care of the school, and of the great libraiy belonging to the
Cathedral. Albert died or was translated in 781, and was buried at Chester.
E(mbdld, his nephew, was his successor. He sent Alcuin to Borne to
bring over his pall, in 780. Eanbald died in 706, and was buried at York.
The next Archbishop was Eanbidd IL, and he was succeeded by Widrius,
who died in 832. Wimund, or Wimundus, his successor, died in 854.
WUfere, WUfenu, or Wvlfer, 864. — ^In the year 873 this prelate was ex-
pelled his diocese, together with King Egbert, by a tumult of the Northum-
hers, and they were forced to fly to Burrhed, King of Mercia, by whom they
were kindly entertained. Egbert dying the following year, his successor
recalled Wilfere to his See, and he died in the year 896. During the greatest
part of his time the Danes so horribly wasted his province with fire and
sword, that for many years together the Archbishop reaped little benefit from
it ; and the successors of Wilfere not having any means with which to sustain
themselves, obtained the administration of the diocese of Worcester, which
for a long time .they held in oommendum. The next two Archbishops of
York were Etfulbald, 896 ; and EedwarduB, 931.
WvlUan, 941. — ^This prelate espoused the cause of Anla£f, the Danish
King of Northumbria, against Edred, the King of England, He was com-
• Second Tome of May, p. 178.
899 HISTORY OP THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
mitted to prison by the latter, but was soon released, and restored to office.
He died on the 26th of December, 955, and was baried at Oundle.
Oskitellf or OscyteU, his successor, was translated to York from Dorchester,
and died in 971 ; and Athelwald, who was immediately consecrated, resigned
his prelacy the same year, and died in retirement.
St. Oswald, the next prelate, was nephew to St. Odo, Archbishop of Can-
terbury, and to Oskitell, his own immediate predecessor in the See of York.
He was educated by St. Odo, and made Dean of Winchester, but passing
into France, he took the monastic habit at Fleury. Being recalled he suc-
ceeded St. Dunstan in the See of Worcester, about the year 959. He es-
tablished a monastery of monks at Westberry, a village in his diocese ; and
he was employed by Duke Aylwin, cousin to King Edgar, in superintending
his foundation of the great abbey of Ramsey, in an island formed by marshes
and the river Ouse, in Huntingdonshire, in 972. St. Oswald was made
Archbishop of York in 974, and he shone as a bright star in this dignity.
He was almost always occupied in visiting his diocese, preaching without
intermission, and reforming abuses. He was a great encourager of learning
and learned men. St. Dunstan, who had been raised to the Metropolitan
See of Canterbury, obliged him to retain the See of Worcester with that of
York. Whatever intermission his functions allowed him, he spent it at St.
Mary's, a church and monastery of Benedictines which he had built at Wor-
cester, where he joined with the monks in their monastic exercises. This
church from that time became the Cathedral. After having sat thirty-three
years, he expired at St. Mary's in Worcester, on the 29th of February, 998,
His body was taken up ten years after, and enshrined by Adulph, his suc-
cessor. It was afterwards translated to York on the 15th of October, which
day was appointed his principal festival.
Aldulfe, 993. — ^A pious and worthy prelate ; he also held the See of Wor-
cester, in commendum. He died on the 6th of May, 1002, and was buried
at Worcester.
WtUstan II,y 1002. — He also held the See of Worcester; died in York,
May 28th, 1023, and was buried in the Cathedral of Ely, " because on a
certain time," says an old writer, " having in devotion gone thither, at a
procession leaning on his episcopal crozier, the staff entered almost half way
into the pavement; whereat being astonished, he sayd in a prophetical
manner, * This is the place of my rest for ever, here will I dwell.' "
Alfric, sumamed Putta, or Pttttoc, Prior of Winchester, was appointed to
this See in 1023 ; he died in 1050, and was buried in Peterborough Abbey.
Kimius, 1050. — This was a prelate of great austerity, mostly walking
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 393
barefoot in his parochial yisitations. He died on the ^^nd of December,
1060, and was buried at Peterborough.
Aldredy the last Archbishop of the Saxon race, was translated from Wor-
cester in 1060. This prelate crowned the Conqueror in 1066. He died on
the 11th of September, 1060, and was buried at York.
Thomas, the first Norman prelate, a Canon of Bayeaux, in Nprmandj, and
chaplain and treasurer to William the Conqueror, was appointed to this See
in 1070. This prelate found the af&irs of the church in great disorder, in
consequence of the dreadful havoc which the Danes had made in the sur-
rounding country. He founded the offices of Dean, Treasurer, and Chanter,
in the Cathedral ; and he divided the church lands into Prebends, and gave
a particular portion to each Canon ; for before his time the Canons lived'
upon the common revenues of the church all at one table. Archbishop
Thomas died at Ripon on the 18th of November, 1100, and was buried in
his own Cathedral at York.
Gerard, his successor, was translated from Hereford in the same year. He,
as well as his predecessor, refused obedience to Canterbury, but at length
submitted by command of the Pope. His death occurred on the dlst of May,
1108, and he was buried at York.
Thomas IL, nephew to Thomas, the first Norman Archbishop, was Pro-
vost of Beverley. He was Bishop elect of London, but before consecration
was removed to the See of York. He was consecrated in June, 1109, died
February 19th, 1114, and was buried at York.
Thurstan, a learned and excellent prelate, had been chaplain to King
Henry I., a Canon of St Paul's, and Provost of Beverley. He was elected
to the See of York on the 15 th of August, 1114, but presuming upon his
interest at court, he revived the old dispute between the Metropolitan Sees
of York and Canterbury ; and owing to the altercations which arose out of
his refusal to make any profession of canonical obedience to the See of Can-
terbury, he was not consecrated till October, 1119. He received the pallium
at Rheims. Archbishop Thurstan was Lord Lieutenant of the North, and
organised the troops that fought the famous Battle of the Standard. (See
page Ids.) After having occupied his See for twenty-one years, he retired to
the Cluniac monastery at Pontefract, to prepare himself for his death, which
occurred the year following (1140), on the 6 th of February.
St. William, the next prelate, was the son of Earl Herbert and Emma,
sister to King Stephen ; and before his election he was treasurer of the Ca-
thedral. He was consecrated at Winchester in September, 1144. But
Osbert, the Archdeacon, a turbulent man, procured Henry Murdoch, a Cis-
8 E
394 HISTORT OF THE ABCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
tercian mouk of the Abbey of Fountaiiis, who was a man of great learning,
and a zealous preacher, to be preferred at Rome, whither William went to
demand his pallium. The most unwarrantable means were used with the
Pope (Eugenius III.) to the prejudice of William ; and his enemies suc-
ceeded in their efforts to have him deprived in 1147. William, who, amongst
his many virtues, was possessed of the deepest humility, showed no enmity,
and sought no revenge against his most inveterate enemies, who had prepos-
sessed the Pope against him by the blackest calumnies. 'He returned to
England, went privately to Winchester, to his uncle, Henry, Bishop of that
See, and in a retired house belonging to the Bishop, he spent seven years in
silence, solitude, prayer, and penitential austerities. Archbishop Henry was
never permitted to enter the city, having quarrelled with King Stephen, whose
part the Canons and citizens warmly espoused. He lived at Beverley, and
died there, October 14th, 1153 ; and he was interred in the Cathedral of his
diocese, though he had never been permitted to enter it whilst he lived. At
his death, St. William, to satisfy the importunities of others, by whom he
was again elected, undertook a second journey to Rome, and received the
pallium from Pope Anastatius IV., who succeeded Pope Eugenius III. On
his return to York he was received with incredible joy by the people. The
great numbers who assembled on that occasion to see and welcome him, broke
down the wooden bridge over the Ouse in the city, and a great many persons
fell in the river. Seeing this terrible accident, the prelate addressed himsdf
to God with many tears, and to his sanctity and prayers has been ascribed
the miraculous preservation of the whole multitude, especially of the children,
who all escaped out of the water without hurt.'^' A few days after his instal-
lation he was seized with a fever, of which he died on the 8th of June, 1154.
He was buried in his C'athedral, and about the year 1280 he was canonized
by Pope Nicholas III., who granted an indulgence of 140 days to all persons
visiting the Saint's tomb on the day of his festival, or any day during the
octave ; and so great was the fame of the reported miracles of St William,
that numbers resorted thither, and made large ofierings for rebuilding the
Cathedral.* The Saint's tomb was situated in the nave, but in 1284 his
relics were put into a very rich shrine, and deposited in the choir by Arch-
• Polydore Virgil pretends that tlds happened on the river Aire at Pontefiwct ; bat
Brompton and Stubbs expressly say that it was in the city of York, on the river Ouse,
where stood a chapel till the Beformation, as Mr. Drake testifies. Pontefract conld not
derive its name from this accident, as Polydore imagined ; for we find it so called long
before ; and the name was originally written Pomfrete, or Pontfrete, from a very different
Norman etymology.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 895
bishop Wickwane. This shrine was portable, so that the Saint's bones could
be borne in procession. This removal or Translation of the relics was per-
formed with much ceremony, King Edward I., Queen Eleanor, and the whole
court, with eleven Bishops, being present Large offerings were made on
this occasion, which helped greadj to swell the funds for building the Min-
ster. Drake sajs that a table, containing a list of thirty-six miracles, with
a copy of the above-mentioned indulgence, is still to be seen in the vestr}%
but no longer legible.f The shrine, with its rich plate and jewels, was
plundered at the Reformation ; but the Saint*s bones were deposited in a box
within a coffin, and buried in the nave under a large spotted marble stone.
Drake had the curiosity to see the ground opened, and found them with their
box and coffin in 1783. He laid them again in the same place, with a mark.
A chapel was erected to his memory on the old Ouse Bridge.
Archbishop Boffer succeeded St William in 1154, and he died at Sherburn
on the S2nd of November, 1181, and was buried at York. After his death
the See of York was vacant for ten years.
Geoffrey PlanUtgenet, Provost of Beverley, and Archdeacon of Lincoln, was
consecrated August 18th, 1191. He was the second illegitimate son of King
Henry U. and his renowned mistress, " Fair Rosamond," daughter of Walter,
Lord Clifford, of Clifford Castle, in Herefordshire. He filled the high office
of Lord Chancellor of England for eight years, and he was High Sheriff of
tiie county of York in 1195. (See page 129.) He is highly spoken of as
fulfilling his various duties, lay and clerical, in a judicious and disinterested
manner ; but crossing the Eing*s purposes, by opposing in his See the col-
lectioB of the obnoxious taxes laid on land by that monarch, " for his niece's
great dowiy, and his own martial uses," he was obliged to vacate his See in
1207 ; and after undergoing many difficulties, he died in exile at Grosmont,
in Normandy, on the 18th of December, 1212.
Walter de Grey, the next Archbishop — ^a man of sound judgment, strict
morality, and great experience — was translated from Worcester on the 18th
of November, 1215. This prelate amassed great wealth, and expended it in
a munificent manner. On the occasion of the marriage of Henry the Third's
daughter, Margaret, to Alexander, King of Scotland, in this city, in 1251,
he entertained the two monarchs and their retinues. (See page 181.) He
built the present north transept of the Minster, expending on it a vast simi.
He also purchased the manor of Thorpe, or St Andrew Thorpe, now called
Bishopthorpe, and bequeathed it to his successors ; and he bought a house
• Drake's Eboracom, p. 419. f Ibid.
896 HISTOUY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK.
in Westminster, of the Friars Preachers, which was thence called York
Place ; and which continued to be the town residence of the Archbishops of
York till Henry the Eighth's time, when it was presented to that monarch
by Wolsey. He died in London on the 1st of May, 1^55, and was buried in
a splendid tomb in his own Cathedral, which still remains.
Sew(d de Bovil, 1206. — He was excommunicated for opposing the prefer-
ment of foreigners to ecclesiastical dignities, especially an Italian, whom the
Pope had constituted Dean of York. He was reconciled to the church on his
death-bed, and he died May 10th, 1258.
Godfrey de Kinton, or KeyntoKy elected September SSrd, 1258. — He appro-
priated Mexborough to his church, and it has been since that period annexed
to the deanery of York. He died on the 12tli of January, 1264, and was
buried in the Cathedral.
Walter Gifford was translated from Bath and Wells in 1265. He was
Lord Chancellor of England, and died April 25, 1279, and was buried at York.
William Wichrane, September 19th, 1279; died August the 26th, 1286;
and was buried at Pontimac.
John le Eomayne, February 10th, 1286. — He died at Burton, near Beverley,
March 11th, 1296, and was buried in his Cathedral.
Henry de Newark, June 24th, 1298 ; died August 15th, 1299 ; and was
interred at York.
Thomas de Corhridge, or Corhrigge, February 28th, 1299. — ^He died at
Laugham, in Nottinghamshire, on the 22nd of September, 1303, and was
buried at Southwell, in the same county.
WiUiam de (jhrenfeld, January 30th, 1305. — This prelate was obliged to
travel to Rome for the approbation of the Pope, and waited two years before
he could obtain it. He died on the 16th of December, 1315, and was buried
at York. He had boon Lord Chancellor of England.
Wdliam de Melton, September 25th, 1317. This active prelate filled suc-
cessively the high offices of Lord Chancellor and Treasurer of England, and
he signalised himself by raising an undisciplined army, and attacking the
Scots at Myton, near Boroughbridge, in 1320. (See page 137.) He died on
the 5th of April, 1340, and was buried at York.
William de la Zouvhe, July 0th, 1342. — He is femous for his courage antl
valour at the battle of Novil's Cross, near Durham, in 1347. (See page
143.) He died July 19th, 1352, and was buried at York.
John de Thoresby, L.L.D., was translated from the See of Worcester on tlie
8th of September, 1354. Ho was of an ancient family near Middleham, and
was esteemed the most learned man of his day. In his time the Archbishop
HISTORY OF THE ABCUDIOCESE OF TOBK. 397
of York was made by the Pope Primate of England, and the Archbishop of
Canterbury Primate of All England ; and thus was settled the disputes for
precedence which had previouslj existed between the two Sees. He was
made a Cardinal by the title of St. Peter ad Vincula, and before receiving this
archbishopric, he had been some time Keeper o^ the Great Seal, and Lord
Chancellor of England. He died on the 6th of November, 1373, and was
buhed at York.
Alexander Nevile, December 18th, 1374. — ^This prelate, who was a favorite
of the unfortunate monarch, Richard U., was translated to St. Andrews in
1388. He was obliged to leave his country, and ultimately became a parish
priest and schoolmaster at Lou vain, where he died in May, 1392.
Thomas Arundel, second son of Kichard, Earl of Arundel, and Archdeacon
of Taunton, was translated from Ely, March 25th, 1389. Being Lord
Chancellor as weU as Archbishop of York, he removed the Seals and all the
King's courts from London to York for six months, in order to humble the
Londoners, who had offended the King, After he had filled this See for six
years, he was removed to Canterbury in 1396, which is the first instance of
a translation from York to that See.
Eobert Waidby, a native of York and a friar of the monasteiy of St.
Augustine in that city, was the next Archbishop. He was a pious and
doquent man> and a great proficient in all kinds of literature. He was
translated from Chichester, January 13, 1397 ; died May 29, 1398 ; and
was buried at Westminster.
Richard Scrope, or Scroope, was translated from Lichfield, July 6, 1398.
This prelate was beheaded for high treason, in a field between Bishopthorpc
and York, on the 8th of June, 1405 (See page 148), and was buried in his
own CathednJ. He was so much beloved by the people, that immediately
after his death his grave was visited by numbers, and so many miracles were
said to be performed there, that Henry lY. ordered that it should be con-
cealed by great logs of wood. His present monument in the Lady Chapel
was subsequently erected. Scrope's rebellion forms one of the principal
scenes in Shakespeare's play of Henry IV.
Henry Boicet, a very liberal and hospitable prelate, was translated from
Bath and Wells, December 9, 1405 ; died at Cawood, October 20, 1423 ; and
was buried in the Cathedral.
John Kempe, a man of humble parentage in Kent, was translated from
London, April, 1426 ; made Archbishop of Canterbury, and became Lord
High ChaneeUor of England^ and a Cardinal of the See of Rome. He built
398 HISTORY OF THE ABCHDIOCESE OF TOBK.
the gate house of the old palace at Cawood, died in 1451, and was buried at
Oanterburj.
WUliam Boothe was translated from Lichfield on the 4th of September,
1453, died, September 30, 1464, and was buried where he died at SouthwelL
George NeviUey the next prelate, was brotiier to Richard, the famous king-
making Earl of Warwick, and was translated from Exeter, in 1465.^ On
the death of the Earl, at the battle of Bamet, our prelate was accused of
treason, imprisoned four years, and died of a broken heart soon after his
liberation, June 8, 1476, and was buried at York. He had been Lord
Chancellor of England.
Lawrence Boothe, Provost of Beverley, Chancellor of the Unirersity of
Cambridge, and Lord Chancellor of England, was translated from Durham,
September 1, 1476. He purchased the manor of Battersea, in Surrey, and
settled it on the Church of York. He died on the 19th of May, 1480, and
his remains were interred at Southwell, in which place he had died.
Thomas Scot de Eotherham, a native of Rotherham in this county, was
translated ftom Lincoln, September 3, 1480. He was a Cardinal of the
Roman Church, and was also for many years Lord High Chancellor of
England to Edward IV., who left the cares of government very much to him.
On the death of that King, he continued faithful to the Queen, for which
cause he was imprisoned for some time by Richard III. This prelate, who
was also the second founder of Lincoln CoUege, Oxford, died of the plague,
at Cawood, on the 29th of May, 1500, and was interred in his Cathedral in
a monument erected by himself.
Thomas Savage was translated firom London, April 13, 1501. He is said
• On the day on which this prelate was enthroned, Janoaiy 15th, 1466, he gave the
largest entertainment ever made by a subject. In Heame's additions to Leland's Col-
lectanea, the bill of fare is as follows : — " In wheat, 300 quarters ; ale, 300 tnns ; wine,
100 tons; ipocrass, 1 pipe; wild bolls, 6; muttons, 1,000; veales, 304; porkers, 304;
swanns, 400; geese, 2,000; capons, 1,000; pygges, 2,000; plovers, 400; quales, 100
dozen; fowles called rees, 200 dozen; peacocks, 104; mallardes and teals, 4,000;
kyddes, 204; chickens, 2,000; pigeons, 4,000; conyes, 4,000; bittors, 204; heron-
shawes, 400; fessantes, 200; partridges, 500; woodcocks, 400; curleins, 100; egretts,
1,000; staggs, bucks, and roes, 500 and mo.; pastes of venison colde, 4,000; parted
dyshes of jelly, 1,000; playne dyshes of jelly, 8,000; cold tartes baked, 3,000; hot
pasties of venison, 1,500; pykes and breames, 604; porpoeea and scales, 12; spieee,
sugard delicates, and wafers, plenty." Amongst the officers of the feast the Earl of
Warwick was steward ; the Earl of Bedford, and the Lord Hastings, comptrollers ; with
many other noble officers. The number of officers and servants of officers was 1,000 ;
of cooks in the kitchen, 62; and of " other men servants, with broche tamers, 115."
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORE. 399
to have been more of a courtier and a sportsman than an ecclesiastic. He
died at Cawood, September 2, 1507, and was buried at York. On the 2drd
of June, 1831, the workmen employed at the Minster, discovered in the north-
east aisle, a leaden coffin in which was the body of this prelate embalmed.
Christopher Baynhridge, or Baynbriggey translated from Durham, Sep-
tember 12, 1508. He was Henry the Eighth's Ambassador to the court of
Home, where he was raised to the dignity of a Cardinal. He died and was
buried at Eome, in July, 1514.
The next Archbishop of York was the celebrated Cardinal WoUey, well
known in English history. Thomas Wolsey was bom at Ipswich, in Suffolk,
in March, 1471. His parents were in humble circumstances, and he is
generally reviled as " the butcher's son." Of the occupation of his father
nothing is known which can be depended upon as certain, but he could
scarcely be considered as moving in the lowest sphere, since, in his will, he
devised to his wife all his '' lands and tenements," in one parish, and his
'* free and bond lands," in another. He must therefore have been a person
of good property. After receiving the rudiments of his education at a
countiy grammar school, Wolsey entered Magdalen College, Oxford, in 1485,
and at the early age of fifteen he was admitted to the degree of B.A., which
gained him the appellation of " the boy bachelor." He soon obtained his
degree of MA., and was afterwards elected a Fellow of the College, and
appointed Master of Magdalen School. In the year 1600 Wolsey left the
University, having been presented to the Rectory of Lynington, in Somer-
setshire, by the Marquis of Dorset, whose three sons were under his tuition
whilst he was Master of Magdalen School. His patron, the Marquis, died
in 1501, and Wolsey was soon after appointed domestic chaplain to Dean,
Archbishop of Canterbury. Upon the death of that prelate in 1503, he
(Wolsey) became chaplain to Sir John Nauphant, or Naufan, Treasurer of
Calais, who took him in his retinue to that place ; and upon his return to
England, strongly recommended him to King Henry VII., who appointed
him one of his chaplains, and sent him as ambassador to the court of
Germany. In 1505 he was presented to the rectory of Hedgrave ; in 1508
he was made Dean of Lincoln, and in the year following Prebendary of
Walton Bnnold, and Prebendary of Stow, in the same Cathedral. Soon
after the accession of Henry VULl., Wolsey, who had been that monarch's
sponsor, was taken into the royal service, and was by degrees entrusted with
the highest offices of state. Riches and dignities were now heaped upon
him in great profusion. From 1511 to 1514 he was made Canon of Windsor,
first Prebendary, then Dean of York ; Dean of Hereford ; Precentor of St.
400 HISTORY OP THE ARCHDIOCESE OP YORK.
Paurs, aud Bishop of Toumay, in Flanders. In 1514 he became Bishop of
Lincoln ; and on the 5th of August in the same year, Archbishop of York.
In 1515 he was created a Cardinal; and in 1516 he was made Lord High
Chancellor of England. The splendour of his domestic establishments, and
the dignified pageantry with which he uniformly appeared in public, raised
the envy of his contemporaries. His extraordinary talent gave him such
immense influence with his Sovereign, that it was he who might be said,
directed the movement and the whole machinery of the state ; and during
some years he was not only the richest, but likewise the most powerful sub-
ject in Europe. The princely liberality with which he encouraged the arts,
and inculcated a love of letters at a period when learning was struggling
against disrepute, has procured for him the admiration of posterity.
That magnificent establishment, Christ Church College, Oxford, was ori-
ginally founded by him, and though he lost the favour of the King before its
completion, it is still a lasting monument of his greatness and love of learning.
During the debate about the legality of the King's marriage with Catherine
of Arragon, Wolsey espoused the cause of the injured Queen, and thereby
incurred the displeasure of his Sovereign. With the Queen he fell from
power ; and his immense influence and wealth exciting the jealousy of the
King, he was attainted of high treason in 1529, and despoiled of all his
dignities, and all his lands and goods were confiscated. However, on the
12th of February of the year following, the King granted him a remarkably
full and complete pardon, and restored part of his plate and furniture, and
also the revenues of his Archbishopric, with a command that he should
henceforth reside in his diocese of York. In the spring of the same year he
retired to his palace at Cawood, and though he spent the following summer
in great hospitality, yet the six months he passed there were probably among
the best spent in his life. He visited the little coimtry churches, reforming
abuses, and frequently preaching and administering the sacrament, and such
of the edifices as were in a ruinous condition, he ordered to be restored ; by
these means he became very popular in his diocese. As he had never been
formally enthroned, and it is said, had never even visited his own Cathedral,
he therefore fixed Nov. 7th, in the same year, for the ceremony to take place.
Great preparations were made for it, and also for the banquet which was to
be given at the Mansion House, and for which large presents of venison and
game were made by the surrounding nobility. However, in the latter end of
October, the Cardinal was suddenly and unexpectedly arrested on a charge of
treason, by the Earl of Northumberland, and on his way to London, whither
he was being conveyed as a prisoner, he was seized with dysentery, and died
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 401
at the Abbey of Leicester, where he had taken shelter, ou the 29th of No-
vember, 1530, in the 60th year of his age. His body was buiied in St.
Mary's Chapel, within the precincts of the Abbey Church, and neither tomb,
nor stone, nor mound, mai*ks his last resting place. A black marble sar-
cophagus made by his order, and probably designed as the depository of
his own remains, surmounts the tomb of Nelson, in the crypt of St. Pauls
Cathedral, London.
Edward Lee, December 10th, 1531. — This prelate, who was Lord President
of the North, was seized by the insurgents concerned in the Pilgrimage of
Grace, and obliged to take an oath of fidelity to them ; but he was afterwards
pardoned for this offence. He died on the 13th of September, 1544, and
was buried in York.
Robert Holgate was translated from Llandaff, January 16th, 1644. He
was a monk favourable to the Reformation, and consequently was patronised
by Henry ; but in the reign of Mary he was committed to the Tower, and he
died in obscurity at Hemsworth, near Pontefract, in 1563. He had been
some time Lord President of the North; and he founded the Grammar
School in Ogleforth, York, called by his name.
Nicholas Heath was translated from Worcester, February 19th, 1556. He
was a learned prelate, to whose exertions the See of York is indebted for the
recovery of a great part of its present revenues. Being a Catholic, he was
patronised by Queen Mary, but was deprived of his dignity by Elizabeth, in
1558; who, however, allowed him to retire to his estate at Cobham, in
Surrey, where he died, and was buried. He had been Lord Chancellor of
England.
Thomas Young, the first Protestant Archbishop of York, was Lord Presi-
dent of the North, and was translated from St. Davids on the 25 th of
February, 1561. " A disgraceful character," writes Allen, " who took down
the great haU in the palace at York, for the sake of the lead which covered
it." He died at Sheffield, June 26th, 1568, and was buried at York.
Edmund GrindaU, the next prelate, was a native of Hensingham, near
Whitehaven. He was translated from London, June 9th, 1570, and advanced
to Canterbury in 1576. He founded and endowed a Grammar School at St.
Bees, Cumberland, in 1583 ; and he died on the 6th of July in the same
year, and was buried in the chancel of Croydon Church.
Edwin Sandys, or 8a7ids, was a native of St. Bees, and probably educated
at the Grammar School just noticed. He was author of Europce Syeculum,
and founder of Hawkshead School. He was translated from London, Jan-
uary 25th, 1577; died, August 8th, 1688, and was buried at Southwell.
3 F
402 HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF TORE.
Archbishop Sandys had been imprisoned for preaching in defence of Lady
Jane Grey's title to the throne.
John Piers was translated from Salisbury, February 27th, 1558. He died
at Bishopthorpe on the 28th of September, 1594, and was buried at York.
Matthew Huttoti, a man of humble origin, but of great meht, was trans-
lated from Durham, March 24th, 1594. He died January 15th, 1006, and
was interred at York.
Tobias Matthew was translated from Durham, March 24th, 1594. He
died January 15th, 1628, and was interred at York. This prelate was one
of the most eloquent preachers of his day, and being a great wit, was a
favourite at the court of both Elizabeth and James 1. He kept an account
of all the sermons he preached, by which it appears that while Dean of Dur-
ham, he preached 721 sermons ; when Bishop of Durham, 550 ; and when
Archbishop of York, 721 ; in all, no less than 1,992 sermons after he had
become a dignitary of the church.
George Montaigne, or Mountain, was the son of a small farmer at Cawood,
who rose to be successively Bishop of London, and Durham, and Archbishop
of York ; to the latter See he was elected June 6th, 1628, and enthroned
October 4th. "But," says Fuller, "he was scarce warm in his church, than
cold in his coffin," for he died November 6th, of the same year, at Cawood,
the place of his nativity, and was buried there.'i'
Samuel Harsnett was translated from Norwich, April 2drd, 1629; died
May 18th, 1631 ; and was interred at Chigwell, in Essex, where he had died.
Richard Neill, a prelate of humble origin, was translated from Winchester,
April 16th, 1632. He died on the 3l8t of October, 1640, and was buried
at York.
John WUliatns was translated from Lincoln, June 27th, 1642. Whilst he
filled the latter See he wrote a book called " The Holy Table," which gave so
much offence to Archbishop Laud, that he (Laud) commenced a prosecution
against him, and he was sentenced to a term of imprisonment in the Tower,
« It is related that when the See of York became vacant, Charles 1. had many claimants
for it, but was undivided respecting its disposal, and sought the adriee of Mountain (then
Bishop of Durham) in his difficulty. The Bishop modestly answered that if his Majesty
bad faith like a grain of mustard seed, he would say to this Mountain, be thou removed
into yonder Sea, and it would obey. The King replied that miracles had ceased, and
asked what had faith to do in tliis point? To convince your Majesty to the contrary,
said the Bishop, be only pleased to say to this Mountain (pointing to himself), be thou
moved into yonder See (alluding to the See of York), and 1 am sure your M^esty will
forthwith be obeyed. The King, smiling, took the hint, and said, then Mountain I will
remove thee ; and he accordingly sent him down Lord Archbishop.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 403
and to pay a fine of £10,000. He was liberated in 1640, and after receiving
the archbishopric of York, he was again imprisoned in the Tower, along with
nine other prelates, by order of the Long Parliament, for a cause which is
already stated at page 339 of this volume. From being a strenuous Royalist,
he became a zealous Parliamentarian, and commanded at the siege of Aber-
gayenny, in South Wales, and reduced that fortress to the obedience of Par-
liament " He will always be memorable in English history," says Lord
Campbell, " as the last of a long line of eminent ecclesiastics, who, with rare
intervals, held for many centuries the highest judicial office in the kingdom,
and exercised a powerful influence over the destinies of the nation."* Arch-
bishop Williams died on the anniversary of his birth, the 25th of March,
1650, aged 68, and was buried at Llandegay, about two miles from Bangor.
For ten years during the Commonwealth this See was vacant, but in a few
months after the Restoration of Charles n. (October 11th, 1660), Accepted
Frewen was translated from Coventry and Lichfield. This prelate seems to
have been somewhat eccentric ; for he lived in a state of celibacy, and his
horror of the " fair sex " was so great that he would not even have a female
servant in his house. He died on the 28th of March, 1664, and was buried
at York.
Monarchy and episcopacy were again raised to great splendour after the
Restoration. All authority was acknowledged to be vested in the King ; and
the Bishops were allowed to resume their seats in the House of Peers. In
1661 an Act of Uniformity was passed, which required every clergyman who
had not received episcopal ordination, to be ordained, and to declare his as-
sent to everything contained in the Book of Common Prayer, and to take the
canonical oath of obedience ; and such as refused to conform to the precepts
of this act, were ipso facto deprived.
Richard Sterne was translated from the See of Carlisle, June 10th, 1664.
He was bom at Mansfield, in Nottinghamshire, and was a noted Royalist.
He had been chaplain to Archbishop Laud, whom he attended at the fatal
scaffold ; and he was himself a prisoner in the Tower for his adherence to
the royal cause. He was the author of a Treatise on Logic, and was one of
the translators of the Polyglot Bible, and he has been suspected of being the
author of "The Whole Duty of Man." He died June 18th, 1683, and was
buried at York.
John Dolben, the next Archbishop, had been a soldier in his early days,
and served as an ensign at the battle of Marston Moor, where he was dan-
• Lord Campbell's liyes of the Lord Chancellors, vol. ii., p. 504.
40 4 iirsTonv of the archdiocesk of york.
gemuslj wounded by a musket ball. He died at York, where lie was buried,
on the 11th of April, 1686. The See then remained vacant for more than
two years.
Thomas Lumplughy a staunch supporter of the doctrines of the Church of
England, and a liberal benefactor to the Cathedral, was translated from
Exeter, December 10th, 1()H8 ; died May 6th, 1691 ; and his remains were
interred at York.
John Sliarp, 1691. — This prelate distinguished himself by his strong oppo-
sition to the Roman Catholic predilections of James 11., whereby he became
very unpopular at court. He was the father of Granville Sharp. He died
February 2nd, 1713, and was the last Archbishop interred in the Cathedral
of York.
Sir William Dawes^ a most exemplary prelate, was translated from the See
of (Hicster, March 2lth, 1714 ; died April 30th, 172-t ; and was interred at
Catlieriiie Hall, Cambridge.
lAinceht Blackhnni was translated from Exeter, December lOth, 1724;
died 1743 ; and was buried in St. Margarets ('hurch, Westminster.
Thomm Herrimi, one of the most noted prelates of his time, was translate<l
from the Soc of Bangor, April 28th, 1743. At the breaking out of the re-
bellion in 1745, he took an active part in arousing the country against the
claims of the Pretender, and by his eloquent appeals the sum of i* 4 0,000. was
soon raised for this purpose. For these services he was advanced to the
archbishopric of Canterbury in 1747. He died March 13th, 1757, and was
buried at Croydon.
Matthew Hutton was likewise translated from Bangor, December 29th,
1747, and advanced to Canterbury in 1757. He died March 19th, 1758,
and was buried at Lambeth.
John (iilhert was translat^l from Salisbury, Mav 28th, 1757 ; and died in
1761.
Robert Hay Drumnioud was translated from Salisbury, November 11th,
1761 ; died DecemlxM' lOtli, 1776, and was buried at Bishopthorpe.
William Markham, the next pr(4ato, was a native of Ireland, and was edu-
ratod at Westminster Soliool, of which School he was afterwai*ds Head
Master. In 1759 ho was appointed Prebendary of Durham ; in 1765, Dean
of Rochester; in 1767, Dean of Christ Church; in 1771 he was consecrated
JHshop of Chester, and was also appointed Preceptor to the Prince of Wales,
afterwards George IV. ; and in 1777 he was translated to the See of York.
He died on the 3rd of November, 1807, aged 89, afU^' filling this See for
thirty years, and was buried in Westminster Abbey.
HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 403
The Hofi, Edward Venahles Vernon HarcouH, L.L,D., the late prelate, and
tdxth son of George, Lord Vernon, was bom on the 10th of October, 1767 ;
educated at Westminster School, and afterwards removed to Christ Church,
Oxford. He was subsequently Fellow of All Souls' College, Chaplain to the
King, Prebendary of Gloucester, and Canon of Christ Church. In 1791 he
was appointed to the bishopric of Carlisle, and was translated to the See of
York in January, 1808. He died at his palace, Bishopthorpe, on the 6th of
November, 1847, in the 91st year of his age, and his body was buried at
Nuneham Courtney, near Oxford, the family seat of his ancestors. '
Thomas Miisgrave, D.D., the present distinguished Archbishop of York, is
son of Mr. W. Peete Musgrave, a woollen draper, &c., in Cambridge. He
was bom in Cambridge, in 1788 ; became a student of Trinity College, Cam-
bridge, in 1806 ; graduated 14th wrangler, in 1810 ; and was elected Fellow
of his College, which he held till 1837. He proceeded M.A., in 1813 ;
became Lord Almoner's Professor of Arabic in 1821 ; was senior Proctor in
1831 ; was Incumbent of St. Mary the Great, in Cambridge, and has also
been bursar of his College. He was consecrated Bishop of Hereford in
1837 ; was translated to York in 1847, and was enthroned in the Cathedral
of that city, on the 13th January, 1848. His Grace is visitor of Queen's
College, Oxford, Governor of the Charter House, and of Queen's College,
London, and Elector of St. Augustine's College, Canterbury.
Seat — Bishopthorpe Palace, near York. Town Residence — 41, Belgrave
Square.
The Cardinal of York. — The last of the Stuarts. — This exalted digni-
tary was Henry Benedict Stuart, brother of the Pretender, Charles Edward
Stuart. After the battle of Culloden he retired to Italy, and obtaining pre-
ferment in the Catholic Church, he was eventually appointed Cardinal of
York. He lived in tranquillity at Rome for nearly fifty years, but in 1798,
when French bayonets drove Pope Pius VT. from the Pontifical chair, Henry
Stuart fled from his splendid residences at Rome and Frascati. His days
were days of want, his only means of subsistence being the produce of a few
articles of silver plate, which he snatched away from the ruin of his property.
When George ITT. was informed of the Cardinal Duke's poverty and pitiable
situation, he ordered Lord Milton to make a remittance of £2,000., with an
intimation that the Cardinal might draw for £2,000. more in the following
July. It was also made known to the Cardinal that an annuity of £4,000
was at his service, so long as circumstances required it. He was spared
seven years to enjoy this munificent pension, and died at Rome, in 1807, in
the 83rd year of his age.
406 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
We have already shown that Chiistianitj was re-introduced into North-
umbria, by Paulinus, a Roman Missionary, about the year 6S5 ; that Edwin
the Saxon monarch of that ancient kingdom, was converted by him, and that
he and his whole court were baptised by him at York, in a.d. 627. The
chief residence of this King was at York, but at so low an ebb was the
Christian religion, that there was not found a temple within his metropolis
suitable for the performance of the ceremony of public baptism. A small
wooden chapel or oratory was erected for the occasion, on the site of the
presei^t glorious fane, which was dedicated to God under the invocation of
St. Peter, and in this primitive erection the solemn ceremony was performed.'*'
The ceremony over, -the prelate, we are told by Bede, took care to acquaint his
royal convert, that since he had become a Christian he ought to build a house
of prayer more suitable to the divinity he now adored ; and by the Bishop's
direction he began to build a suitable fabric of stone, in the midst of which
was enclosed the oratory already erected.* But Edwin was not permitted
to see the completion of the edifice which he had thus piously b^un ; for
scarcely were the walls raised when he was slain in battle at Hatfield, near
Doncaster, in 633, and Paulinus retired to the south. (See pages 86 and
383.) Eanfrid, the son of Edwin's predecessor, then returned from exile,
and on succeeding to the throne of Bernicia, was necessarily involved in the
war against Cadwallon, by whom he was basely slain at York, when, with
only twelve followers, he visited the British King at that city to sue for
peace. Oswald, a zealous Christian King, the brother of Eanfrid, having
slain Cadwallon, and established his own authority, undertook to complete
the building of the church at York, which he had no sooner finished in 642,
then he was killed by Penda, the pagan King of Mercia, and the newly-
erected edifice was soon after severely injured by the invasions of neighbouring
savage tribes. Drake says, that Oswald recommenced the building about
632, but this date is evidently too early, as Edwin was killed in 633, and
Oswald did not commence his actual reign till a year afterwards. Eddius,
who wrote about the year 720, tells us that at that date the building was in
ruins; that the timbers of the roof were rotten, the walls decayed, the
windows destitute of glass, or other material, whereby the interior was ex-
* Gent says, that this oratory was erected on the site of a pagan temple dedicated to
Bellona or Diana.
f Bede's Hist EccL, lib. ii., ch. 14.
HI8T0BT OF THE GATHEDBAL OF YORK. 407
posed to the injuries of the weather, and that the birds were the undisturbed
inhabitants of the ruined structure. In this desolate condition it was found
by Archbishop Wilfrid, who, about the year 674, restored it to its former
grandeur. He strengthened the walls, renewed the wood work of the roof,
covered it with lead, and glazed the windows.* This eminent prelate and
architect founded and built the churches of Hexham and Ripon, and from
their magnitude and decoration, naturally excited the admiration and praises
of contemporary writers.
Bede informs us that the Cathedral of York was a square stone structure
dedicated to St Peter, the feast of which dedication was long held here
annually, with great solemnity, on the first day of October, and the seven
following days ; but Torre tells us that " the order for making this a dmdile\
festival was not issued till the year 1642." The Cathedral stood and
flourished with little alteration for many years, in the course of which the
valuable library of Archbishop Egbert was bestowed upon it. In 741 the
church was almost if not completely destroyed by Are, and a new fabric was
immediately begun by Archbishop Egbert, who was assisted by the advice
« This is one of the first instances recorded of glass windows in this country. The
windows had preTiously derived their light from transx>arency of linen, or of boards
pierced with many holes. Wilfrid borrowed the custom of filling the windows with
glass from the churches of Borne, which he had several times visited.
> A Double is a festival upon which the Antiphons are repeated entire, both before
and ailer the psalms in the divine office.
Origin of ChmHan FuHvaU, — ^In the first ages of Christianity the Apostles and their
saccessors were obliged to destroy paganism to the last stone, and build all things from
the vexy foundation. The heathens had their calendar ; the name of some deity, some
feast, seasons of rejoicing or mourning, occupied its year; and the heathens were de-
lighted with their festivals. It was no trifling work to begin by blotting out the calendar
of civilized nations, without being prepared to fill it with other memorials equally inter-
esting. The Jews too had their calendar, but this for the greater part was abolished, for
of what importance any longer to the church were the feast of tabernacles, of purification,
and others, ocouxring every month. A blank volume was in the Apostle's hands, and the
duty of the early church was to fill it up, that the Christian world might have by de-
grees, the whole year filled with suggestions useful to the Christian soul. They begun
immediately to fill up the blank calendar with sulgects dear to every Christian heart.
These were the great festivals of Our Lord — ^his Birth, Crucifixion, Besurrection, As-
cension, and the coming of the Holy Ghost. These were coeval with Christianity.
After the Apostles had passed from earth, certain days were set apart to praise God for
their triumphs, and to honour them in various ways, as well as to implore their inter-
cession; and age after age festivals were appointed in honour of Christian Martyrs and
Confessors, and holy personages. Thus was our calendar formed. After the Befor-
mation, the vacancies in the calendar of the Church of England were filled up by
political or social occurrences.
408 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TOBK.
of the celebrated Alcuin. Archbishop Albert, assisted by £aiibald, who suc-
ceeded him, completed the work in the most magnificent Saxon style. The
latter prelate did not live long to enjoy the beautiful structure he had finished,
for he died in November, 781, in ten days after its consecration. Alcuin
describes the fiEibric as of considerable height, supported by columns and
arches, covered by a vaulted roof, and provided with large windows. It had
also porticoes and galleries, and thirty altars, the latter of which were adorned
widi various ornaments.*
It may appear surprising that these Archbishops were well skilled in
arcliiteeture, but this surprise will vanish when we reflect that it was cus-
tomary for the monks and ecclesiastics in those days to build their own
Abbeys and Cathedrals.
In the year 1069, as has been already seen at page 120, the native inhab-
itants, aided by the Danes, in their attempt to throw off" the yoke of the Con-
queror, set fire to the suburbs, which spreading to the city, communicated to
the Cathedral, and involved them all in one common ruin.f William, who
on entering the city, found the church in ruins, seized its revenues, and ex-
pelled the Canons from their stalls. He, however, soon afterwards made
Thomas, his chaplain and treasurer. Archbishop of the Province, and restored
the revenues, <fec., to the church. By this prelate the Cathedral was soon
restored ; and he afterwards rebuilt it on a larger scale, in the Norman- style,
about the year 1080. But its prosperity was of short duration, for it shared
a similar fate to his predecessor, and was partly burnt down by an accidental
fire in 1187. Efforts were soon after made to further the restoration of the
ruined Cathedral, and Joceline, Bishop of Sarum, granted an Indulgence of
forty days, or a remission of forty days canonical penance, to penitents who
contributed towards it.^ StiU but little appears to have been effected for
• Britten's York Cathedral, p. 28.
f Simon Dunelm, Hist. Angl., Scriptores x. col. 178.
I An Indulgence f according to the definition of the Catholic Church (and we must allow
she ought to be the best judge of her own doctrine), is not the pardon of any sin, much
less is it a licence to commit sin ; it is merely a relaxation of the temporal punishment
that is due to sin, after the guiU of sin and the eternal punishment due to that guilt is
remitted by sincere repentance and humble confession. In other words, it is a free
release from the external satisfactory works of penance, in consideration of the penitent's
internal fervour. The ancient discipline of the church obliged great sinners, when
they repented, to perform certain penances for certain lengths of time, according to the
nature and number of their transgressions; some were obliged to &st one meal each day,
or recite certain prayers, or perform some other good works, for a number of days,
months, or years, and some great public sinners were obliged to perform such works
during the terra of their natural lives. Now an indulgence of forty days, or one hundred
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 409
more than forty years, when Archbishop Boger rebuilt the choir about 1171,
in the Norman style, to correspond to the rest of the building.
We now come to the commencement of the erection of the Cathedral as it
at present stands. In 1/215 the munificent Archbishop Walter de Grey
came to the archiepiscopal throne, and finding his church inferior in mag-
nificence to many of the ecclesiastical edifices of his day, he determined to
rebuild it on a larger and grander scale, and commenced accordingly with
the present South Transept, which appears to have been completed during
his life time. He prosecuted his design with much eneigy, giving largely
from his own funds towards it, granting indulgences to penitents, and urging
the faithful to aid him in his efforts to beautify the structure.
In 1260 John le Romayne, treasurer of the Cathedral, completed the
erection of the North Transept. He also raised a handsome bell tower in the
place now occupied by the great lantern tower. The old Norman nave, not
now corresponding with the beautiful early English transepts, it was deter-
mined that it should be pulled down ; and Archbishop Bomayne, son of the
above-named treasurer, personally laid the foundation of the present Nave,
with great solemnity, on the 7th of Apnl, 1291. The materials for building
the nave (and for the whole of the church, according to some authorities) were
contributed by Robert de Vavasour, from St Peter's quarry, on his estate
near Tadcaster;4' and by William de Percy, of Bolton, from his woods at
days, or of a year, or of seven years, is a free release or remissioii of as much of the
temporal pmiishmeiit due to sin, as would be satisfied by the performance of the ancient
canonical penances for either of those periods. In a word, it is a commutation of the
canonical penances for prayers, alms deeds, or other good works — ^a substitation of one
flatiafSnction for another — of a longer i>enaDce for a shorter, and hence it is styled an
indulgence or favour done to the penitent. Thus an indulgence has nothing to do with
the pardon of sin, nor with the eternal punishments due to sin, but only with that debt
of temporal penance which the church maintains the sinner has to discharge after the
eternal guilt of his sin is forgiven. Indulgences are of two kinds— pcnttat and plenary
— a partial indulgence is explained above ; and a plenary indulgence is a remission of
the whole of the debt of temporal punishment due to the sin of the i>enitent.
* There appears to be no doubt that the stone was taken firom the quarries of Hazle-
wood, " in proof whereof, and there is good evidence of it in the hands of Yavasore, out
of a little quany within the manor of Hasslewood hath been taken the Cathedral Church
of York, the Minsters of Howden, Selby, Beverley, &c." — Appendix to Leland, vol, iii.,
Heame*s edit., p. 103. Camden says, that " near Hesslewood, within twelve miles of
York, lieth a most famous quarry of stone, called Peter's Post, for that with the stones
hewed out of it, by the liberal grant of the Vavasors, that stately and sumptuous church
of St Peter's at York was re-edify'd."
It appears by an old deed that Robert le Vavasour granted to God, St. Peter, and the
church of York, for the health of his own soul, and the souls of his wife Julian, and his
3 G
410 HISTOBY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TOBK.
that place. The memory of the beneficence of each is preserved bj stataes
erected at the eastern and western ends of the building, and in other me-
morials in the interior of the church.
Archbishop William de Melton, was the next founder. In 1838 he com-
pleted the West Front. For this purpose he granted on indulgence of forty
days, '' to all such well disposed people as pleased to extend their charitable
contributions towards the building of the late prostrate fSabric, whereby he
might be the better enabled to finish so noble a structure then newly began.*'
Besides tlie large contributions which he was certain to receive by means of
this indulgence, it is said that he expended a large sum out of his own money,
and the other prelates also contributed largely out of their own private fortunes.
But the great benefactor of the Cathedral was Archbishop Thoresby. That
prelate seeing that the Norman choir built by Archbishop Roger did not
harmonize with the other parts of the church, and considering that there was
no place in the church " where our Lady's mass, the glorious mother of God,
could decently be celebrated," determined to re-build the east end, or choir;
and thereby finishing the whole fabric in the same style of architecture as
well as magnificence. Accordingly all the machineiy for raising public
contributions by the church was put in motion, and *tis said that the Arch-
bishop himself devoted of his own income about j82,400., or ^£200. annually —
a large sum in those days — ^in pursuance of the work. He also pulled down
the archiepiscopal mansion of Sherbum Hall, and supplied the materials
for the use of the Minster. Torre says, that letters mandatory, dated Festo,
8. Mich, Anno. 1855, were likewise issued from the chapter of York, directed
to all rectors, vicars, and parochial chaplains, within the respective prebends,
dignity, and the community of the church, ei^oining them by virtue of their
canonical obedience, and under pain of the greater excommunication, to suffer
their collectors in their chapelries and parishes to ask and gather the
charitable alms of the people, for the use of the fabric of this church.
Accordingly the first stone of the New Choir was laid by the Archbishop
at the east end, on the 19th of July, 1861. The great liberality of Thoresby
did not surpass the generosity of the public ; the donations continued to in-
crease, till the Archbishop found himself enabled not only to rebuild the
ancestors, ftdl and fi>ee use of his qnarry near Tadcatter in Thevedale, with liberty to
take and carry thence a sufficient quantity of stone for the fabric of this church, as oft
as they had need to repair, re-edify, or enlarge the same. Likewise Robert de Percy,
Lord of Boulton, granted to John, Archbishop of York, free liberty for the mariners or
carters to cany the fkbric stone from Tadcaster, either by land or water, through his
grounds lying along the river Quarfe (Whar/e), or up that river to Tork; and also his
wood at Boulton, for roofing the new building.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 411
choir, but also to take down the central steeple erected by John le Romayne,
which was likewise thought inferior to the rest of the edifice, and to erect in
its place the present elegant lantern tower. Walter Skirlaw, Prebendary of
Fenton, Archdeacon of the East Rifling, and afterwards Bishop of Durham,'*'
gave a veiy munificent donation for the latter purpose. The old steeple was
accordingly taken down in 1370, and the erection of the present Central
Tower was b^[un; but nearly eight years elapsed before it was finally
completed.!
According to Drake the present towers at the west end appear to have been
raised by John de Birmingham, treasurer of the church, about the year 1402.^
The rest of the structure was finished between 1405, when Archbishop
Bowett (whose arms appear in the sculpture, and on the window) was ap-
pointed to the See, and 1426, when the Dean and Chapter granted, out of
their revenues, a full tenth to the use of the fabric then newly built.§ In
addition to the means already mentioned for raising the supplies from time
to time, for erecting the Cathedral, bulls apostolical, granting indulgences,
were issued by Popes Innocent VI. and Urban V. and VI., and on one of
these occasions a kind of income tax, of five per cent, was imposed on eccle-
siastical benefices, for three years, for the necessary repairs and re-edifications.
The building used as a vestry was anciently a chapel, founded by Arch-
bishop de la Zouche about the year ld50,|| who intended it for the place of
his interment, but he died before it was finished. The original building was
demolished at the time of the new erection of the choir, and the present one
• From Anthony A* Wood's History of the Unversity of Oxford we leam the following
pftrticulars of this prelate : — He was the son of a sieve-maker, at Skirlaw, in Holdemess,
Yorkshire. At an early age he ran away from his father's house, and came to Oxford,
where he partook of William of Durham's benefiiction in Univenity College, and distin-
goished himself so much by his learning, that he rose to be made successively Bishop of
lichfield and Coventry, Wells, and Durham. It is added that his parents were ignorant
of his fate till he was settled at Durham, when he sent his steward to Skirlaw to bring
them to him, if they were alive, and then made a provision for them. He appears,
continues Wood, to have been an eminent architect, as the centre tower of York Minster
is said to have been built under his superintendence, when he was Archdeacon of the
East Biding. He died in 1406, and was buried in the Cathedral of Durham.
f The wages of workmen about this time were 3d. a day to a master mason or car-
penter, and l^d. to their " knaves," as their journeymen were then called. A pound's
worth of silver then was a pound weight, which is equal to £A, of our present money,
and one penny then would purchase as much com as 20d. now, bringing the artizan's
wages to the rate of 28. 6d. a day.
I Drake's Ebor., p. 485. i Torre's MSS., p. 7.
II Stubbs* Chron. Pontif. Ebor. in vita Qui. Zonch.
412 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
was raised in its stead bj the executors of Zoache, and endowed as a chantry
for prayers for the soul of that prelate.
Of all the different parts of this magnificent structure, the elegant Chapter
House is the only one which the date is totally unknown. No records
extant give any account of the time of its erection, but fix>m the style of
architecture, Drake and others conjecture that it is to be ascribed to Walter
de Grey ; and as a figure in the window over the entrance corresponds with
the representation of that prelate on his tomb, and the arms of several of
his contemporaries are painted in some of the other windows. But Mr.
Allen thinks that this part of the church, with its vestibule, is more probably
of the reign of Edward m.
The following is the chronological order of the dates of the erection of the
several parts of the present fabric, on the authority of Mr. John Britton :* —
South Transept, begun by Archbishop Walter de Grey, in the reign of Henry
m., A.D. 1227 ; North Transept, by John le Romayne, 1260 ; Chapter House,
about the same time ; Nave, by Archbishop le Romayne, in the reign of Ed-
ward I., 1201 ; Choir, by Archbishop Thoresby, in the reign of Edward HL,
1852; Oreat Central Tower, about the same time; and the Two West Towers,
built about 1402. The whole fabric was finished about the year 1426.
Thus within the space of 200 years this superb Cathedral was completed
in the form and dimensions in which it appears at this day. The styles of
architecture of the various parts of the building are as follows : — The Crypt,
chiefly Norman ; North and South Transept, Early English ; Nave and West
Front of Nave, Decorated; Choir, Lady Chapel, Central Tower, and the
Towers at the west end. Perpendicular ; Chapter House, Decorated.f
The following contracts are entered in the books of the church, and ihey
are also noticed in Torre's MSS. : — ** On Monday next, after the feast of St.
Agatha the Virgin, celebrated February 6th, 1388 (12th Edward HI.), it was
• Britton'8 Antiquities of York Cathedral, p. 33.
•^ According to Browne's History of York Minster, the dates of its erection are as
under. For the names of the Aiehbishops in whose time the several parts were built,
as well as of the contemporaneous Kings, see the table commencing at page 377 of this
history. The Original Church of stone commenced a.d. 627; restored, (570; injured
by fire, 741 ; rebuilt, 1080; injured by fire, 1137 ; and rebuilt or repaired in 1170.
The Present Cathedral, — The South Transept was erected about the year 1220 ; North
Transept erected from 1250 to 1270; Chapter House, fh>m 1280 to 1340; Vestibule to
Chapter House, firom 1335 to 1350; Nave, 1291 to 1360; Eastern portion of the Choir,
1361 to 1415; Western portion of the Choir, 1410 to 1472; South-west Bell Tower,
1438 to 1450; North-west Boll Tower, 1450 to 1474; the Great Tower, 1460 to 1472;
and the Organ Screen, from 1476 to 1518.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORE. 413
covenaDied by indenture, that Thos. de Boreston, vicar choral, should at his
own proper costs glaze two windows in the Cathedral church, viz., on each
side one (west end of nave), find all the glass for the same, and pay the work-
men their wages for the finishing thereof. Thos. de Ludham, custos of the
fabric, became bound to pay him twenty-two marks sterling, yiz., eleven
marks for each window." Likewise in 1338 another indenture was made
between one Robert, a glazier, on the one part, and Thos. de Boreston, custos
of the fabric, on the other, for the making of a window at the west gable of
this Cathedral church, and to find all sorts of glass for the same, and for
doing the work the said Thomas was to pay him sixpence per foot for white,
and twelve pence per foot for coloured glass.
The substance of a singular contract for glazing and painting the great
eastern window is also preserved in Torre's MSS. The indenture, which is
dated 10th of August, 1405, is between John Thornton, of Coventry, glazier,
and the Dean and Chapter. The painting was to be executed with his ovm
hands ; and the work to be finished in three years ; and his pay was 4s. per
week, and £5. at the end of each of the three years ; and if he performed the
work to the satis£EUition of his employers, he was to receive the further
sum of £10.
There does not seem to have been much alteration in the Minster from the
time of its completion, till we come to the period of the Reformation, when
several of the chantries and altars, together with the shrine of St. William,
were removed.'*' Some of these were however restored in Mary*s reign ; but
all were cleared away in the reign of Elizabeth.
The pavement of the Cathedral is of recent date ; anciently it consisted
(chiefly) of the gravestones of the Bishops and other ecclesiastics. " At
the period of the Reformation," says Mr. Britton, '* the furious zeal which
demoL'shed so many beautiful monuments of antiquity, did not spare York
Cathedral; nor did the fanatics of Cromwell's time omit here their pious
practices of destroying the figures and epitaphs on the tombs, and stealing
the brasses. The numerous gravestones stripped of their ornaments, and
otherwise injured, disfigured the church; the old pavement was therefore
taken up, and the present one laid down in 1736, according to a plan by Mr.
Kent, under the direction of Lord Burlington. The stone for the purpose
was the donation of Sir Edward Gascoigne, of Parlington, from his quarry at
• There were more than forty chantries, and about thirty altars dispersed in several
places of this Cathedral, bat it is as difficult in this day to assign the respective situations
of a great many of them, as it is to find out the lands the ohantries were originally en-
dowed with.
414 HI8T0RT OP THE CATHEDRAL OF TOBK.
Huddleston, in Yorkshire ; and even some of the old marble grayestones were
cut up and appropriated to this work. The expenses amounting to £2,500.
were defrayed by a subscription among the noblemen and gentlemen of York-
shire. It is however to be regretted that the noble amateur did not adapt
the design of his pavement to the style and character of the edifice ; instead
of disposing of it in a sort of Roman pattern."
During the re-paving of the church, some curious rings of ruby and sap-
phire, set in gold, belonging to those whose mortal remains had mixed with
their parent dust, were discovered, and are now shown in the vestry.
Since the period of the Commonwealth to the beginning of the year 1839,
there is nothing particularly worth recording in the history of the Minster.
But on the 2nd of February in that year the magnificent choir was destroyed
by fire, kindled by the hand of an incendiary. On Sunday afternoon, Feb-
ruary 1st, the usual service was performed in the choir at four o'clock, and
in the evening (it being Candlemas-eve) the ringers were in the church till
about half-past six. About four o'clock on Monday morning a man passing
through the Minster Yard saw a light in the building, but supposing that it
might arise from workmen in the edifice, it excited no suspicion in his mind.
About seven o'clock a fire was discovered in the choir, in a rather singular
manner. A young chorister of the name of Swinbank, in passing through
the Minster Yard, slipped upon the ice and fell on his back. Whilst in this
position he saw a quantity of smoke issue from the roof of the Minster. He
immediately gave the alarm to the key keeper, and upon the door being
opened the whole building was found to be filled with a dense smoke, and
the curious and interesting wood work of the choir was extensively on fire.
The flames rapidly spread over the whole of that beautiful collection of carved
oak pews and tracery, which had till then exhibited the taste and wealth of
our forefathers. In a short time the workmen and others assembled, and all
the engines in the city were on the spot. Several individuals succeeded in
carrying out cushions and books from the north side of the choir, and the
curious old chair which stood with the rails of the altar. The brass eagle
was removed with great difficulty owing to its weight, and the suffocating
effects of the smoke. The communion table was removed in time to save it,
but the plate, which was kept in a secret place in the choir, was found to
have been melted into shapeless masses. When the organ caught fire, an
appalling noise, occasioned by the action of the air in the pipes upon the
flames, reverberated through the building, and struck with awe all who heard
it This noble organ, which was said to be unequalled for tone and power
by any instrument in the world, was totally consumed, with a valuable col-
HISTORY OF THE OATHEBRAX OF YORK. 415
lection of music which was deposited in the organ loft, and much of which
being in manuscript cannot be replaced. By nine o'clock the entire choir
was on fire, and the roof began to fall in large masses, with horrid and
deafening crashes, the melted lead pouring down in torrents. The engines
were scarcely able to check the flames, until they were partly stifled by the
falling of the heavy materials of the roof and ceiling. At eleven o'clock the
whole roof had come down, and then the fire began rapidly to be got under ;
and by two o'clock all danger of further mischief from the flames was at an
end. By extraordinary efforts the beautiful screen, which divides the nave
from the choir, was saved firom destruction. During the afternoon the Ca-
thedral and its precincts presented a melancholy spectacle. The floor of the
nave was strewed i^th fragments of the roof which had been brought from
the choir ; and against one of the pillars laid the remains of the organ, con-
sisting of some fragments of the gilt pipes, and a portion of the iron work.
The Minster Yard was thickly strewed with the fragments of the roof, black-
ened in the fire, and reduced to the consistency of charcoal.
By this great fire the roof of the choir was entirely destroyed, as well as
the organ, tabernacle work, and several of the monuments were either totally
destroyed, or very much injured. The roofs of the side aisles of the choir being
groined with stone, did not take fire, and the great east window was scarcely
touched. The fine screen between the choir and Lady Chapel was very much
injured ; and the clustered columns, arches. Sec, were slightly injured.
Many reports obtained circulation relative to the origin of the fire ; but a
committee of enquiry having been formed, it was ascertained that the rope
was cut from the bell which id rung for prayers ; and it had the appearance
of having been cut with a stone, the end being very much chafed. A knotted
rope was then found attached to the far window of the North Transept, and
it was ascertained that the window was opened from the interior. A bunch
of matches, burnt at both ends, was found under the rubbish of the burnt
oigan ; and a pair of shoemaker's pincers on the stool of the window, out of
which the knotted rope was suspended. It was now quite evident that the
destruction of the noble edifice was the work of an incendiary. A shoemaker,
who resided at Aldwark (a street in the city), owned the pincers as his, and
this discovery, connected with other circumstances, formed a chain of evidence
of such a conclusive nature, as left no doubt that a man named Jonathan
Martin, a native of Hexham, was the incendiaiy. He had lodged for a month
with this shoemaker, and on Tuesday, the 37th of January, he left his
lodgings, stating that he was going to reside at Leeds. On the following
Saturday evening, about eight o'clock, he returned to his old lodgings, giving
416 HISTORT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
as a reason for so doiDg, that having twenty of his books to sell at Tadcaster,
he thought he would come as far as York. Convenience was made for him
to sleep that night in the shoemaker's workshop, and the next morning,
Sunday, he went out about half-past ten, and returned no more. On Mon*
day, the 8th of February, he was taken near Hexham, and on his examination
before a bench of magistrates, he stated that in consequence of having had
two remarkable dreams, he thought he was to set fire to the Minster.
On the 31st of March he was tried at York Castle before the late Baron
HuUock, and found not guilty, on the ground of insanity ; so he was ordered
to be detained during his Majesty's pleasure. In his defeice, in which he
displayed much subtlety and cunning, he gave a minute detail of his pro-
ceedings, and the different expedients resorted to in order to complete his
" pious work," as he called it. He stcted that he attended the evening ser-
vice, and was ''very much vexed at hearing them sing the prayers, and
amens ; he thought the prayer of the heart came from the heart ; and that
they had no call for prayer books. The organ then made such a buzzing
noise," he observed, ** Thou shalt buzz no more— 1 11 have thee down to
night" He then related how he left the choir with the congregation at the
close of the service, concealed himself behind Bishop Granville's tomb till all
went out, and remained concealed till the bell-ringers left the building ; how
he arose and prayed, and called upon the Lord for help ; how the Spirit ioLd
him to strike a light, how he completed the work of destruction, and escaped
through the window, looking back with pleasure on the *' merry blaze which
began to shoot up." The miserable fenatic was confined in New Bethlehem
Hospital, London, where he died on the drd of June, 1888.
Mr. Smirke, afterwards Sir Bobert Smirke, the eminent architect, drew up
a report of the state of the building, and an estimate for its restoration. He
recommended that similar materials ^ould be employed for its renovation as
had been originally used ; that the ornamental work should be finished in
the same manner, and in strict conformity, as before ; the roof to be of oak,
and to be covered with lead ; and the carved ribs in tdie roof, the prebendal
stalls, and other parts appertaining, to be oak. The restoration of the edifice
was efiected under his direction, at a cost of i^6,000., which was raised by
national subscription. The Government gave ig5,000. worth of teak timber
from the dock yards ; and Sir E. M. Vavasour, Bart., of Hazlewood Castle,
nobly imitating the example of his imcestors, gave the stone. His Grace the
Archbishop presented the communion plate, and a subscription of J6d,000 ;
and one of the Prebendaries, the Hon. and Rev. J. L. Saville (afterwards
Earl of Scarborough), gave the organ. On the 6th of May, 1883, the choir
was again opened for divine service.
HlsroRY OF THE CATIIEDIIAI. OF YoKK. 417
Another disastrous tire took place m the Cathedral, on Wednesday, the
2()th of May, 1840, in conse(j[uence of the carelessness of a workman em-
ployed to olean the clock, in the south-west tower. The flames had acquired
great power before any efficient check could be brought to bear upon them.
The first alarm was given about half-past sev^n in the evening, and by nine
o clock the peal of bells had fallen,'(« and the fire raged through the roof of
the tower, and along the roof of the centre aisle of the nave. By midnight
the tower and nave had been reduced to mere shells, and by the greatest
exertion the most imminent danger was then over. This damage was wholly
repaired in the following year, at a cost of about £23,000., the whole of which,
with the exception of a few thousand pounds, was raised by public sub-
scription. The restoration was admirably effected under the superintendence
of Mr. Sidney Smirke. The Cathedral is now in excellent repair ; men are
kept constantly employed on the building to restore all tlie decayed parts,
with strict attention to original forms and details. It is believed that this
edifice could not be entirely rebuilt in its present style for less than £2,000,000.
Four Grand Musical Festivals have been held in this Cathedral, for the
benefit of the York County Hospital, and the Infirmaries of Leeds, Hull, and
Sheffield. The first was held on the 23rd of September, 1823, and the three
following dajrs. The whole of the three aisles of the spacious nave were fitted
up in a most splendid manner. The fioor was boarded over, and an immense
gallery constructed at the west end, projecting eighty-three feet eastward to
the third pillar of the nave. The front seat was elevated four and a half feet
above the pavement, and the back seat was on a level with the base of the
window, at the height of twenty-eight feet. The orchestra was erected under
the great lantern tower. The band was composed of 285 vocal, and 180 instru-
mental performers. The music consisted of selections from the compositions
of Handel, Haydn, Mozart, &c. The number of persons who attended the
four days' performances was 17,000 ; and the gross amount of the receipts
(including the evening concerts at the Assembly Rooms) was £16,174. 16s.
8d. ; the gross surplus, which was equally shared among the charities above
mentioned, was £7,200.
The Second Festival commenced on the 13th of September, 1825. Total
number of persons present at the four performances, 20,873. The band con-
sisted of 615 persons, vocal and instrumental. Gross receipts* £20,876. IDs*
The Third Festival took place on the 23rd of September, 1828, and three
♦ This was on excellent poal of ten bells, the whole of which were destroyed daring
that calftmity, the metal being melted by the intense heat. The tenor weighed 53 cwt*
Q5Ib., having a diameter of 5 feet 6 inches.
3 u
418 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
followiug days, aud was attended by all the rank and fashion in the noith of
England. On this occasion additional galleries were erected in the side aisles.
The orchestra consisted of 350 vocal performers, exclusive of thirteen prin-
cipal singers; and 200 instrumentalists. The receipts were dS 16,7 69. lis. 4d.
The aggregate attendance was ^4,525 persons.
The Fourth Festival (which was the last) was held on the 7th of September,
1835, and three succeeding days. This Festival was patronised, in person,
by Her Majesty (then the Princess Victoria) and the Duchess of Kent The
Royal party attended the Cathedral on each of the four days. The orchestra
-consisted of about 600 vocal suid instrumental performers. The gross receipts
were ;£16,662. 3s. 9d. ; the gross expenditure, dS 13,073. 15s.; suid the sur-
plus of dS3,588. 8s. Od. was divided in the proportions of d£ 1,794. 4s. 6d. to
the restoration fund for the fire of 1829, and J^448. lis. Id. each to the
charitable institutions above mentioned.
The late Dr. Beckwith, of York, who died in December, 1843, left a sum
of J£2,000. for the purchase of a new peal of beUs for the Cathedral ; and a
further sum of dS3,000. to be applied to the restoration of the Chapter House.
The new and beautiful peal of twelve bells, provided out of the above-named
munificent bequest, were rung for the first time on the 4th of July, 1844,
the day on which the restoration committee closed their arduous labours.
The bells, which are placed in the south tower, vary in height from 2^^ to 5^
feet, and in weight from 7^ to 53| cwt.*
The large clock bell, named Great Peter of York, is worthy of a special
notice. It cost £2,000., which was raised by public subscription among the
• The history of bells, as used in collecting the people for religioas worship, is in-
volved in some obscurity. The invention of bells is by some attributed to the Egyptians,
and it is certain that they were always used to announce the festivals in honour of Osiris.
Among the Hebrews, the high prieRts, in grand ceremonies, wore a kind of tunic, orna-
mented with small golden bells. Bells were also known among the Persians, the Greeks,
and the Romans. It is said that Paulinus, Bishop of Nola, a city of Campania, in Italy,
introduced bells into the church to summon the people to divine worship ; but it does
not appear that large bells were used before the sixth century. Their first adaptation
to the use of the Anglo-Saxon Church is not clearly to be ascertained from written testi-
mony. Some say they were introduced there by Pope Leo 1. ; and others by Paulinus.
According to Malmsbury, small beUs, noUx^ were used in Britain in the fifth centuiy ;
and it is clear from Bede, that large bells, campana, such as sounded in the air, and
called a numerous congregation to divine service, were employed in England in the year
680. It appears however that the towers of churches were not constructed solely for the
use of bells, but partly to direct the weary and benighted traveller to a place of human
habitation ; for which benevolent purpose lights were frequently burnt in them during
the darkest nights. Dr. lingard thinks that the early towers were distinct fh>m the
church.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 419
citizens; the Dean and Chapter agreeing to expend a similar sum in putting
the north-western tower in a state of repair suitable for its reception. This
monster bell was cast by Messrs. Hears, of London (who also were the
founders of the new peal of twelve), and it was hung in its present position
in the aboTe-mentioned tower in 1845. It is the largest bell in the United
Kingdom, its weight being 11^ tons. Its diameter at the mouth is 8ft. 4in. ;
its height, 7ft. 2in. ; and its thickness at the sounding curve is 7 inches.
The weight of the clapper is 4 cwt. 1 qr. 6 lb. This ponderous clapper is of
wrought iron of Yorkshire manufacture, and is a beautiful specimen of work-
manship. The bell is heavier by 4 tons than Great Tom of Oxford (hitherto
the largest in England), by 6 tons than the celebrated Tom of Lincoln, and
by nearly 8 tons than the large bell at St. Paul's. The ornaments of the
bell are suitable, and of a character and style similar to the details of the
principal parts of the Cathedral. The arms of the city and church are placed
on each side of it. The oaken stock on which the bell is fixed weighs, with
the bolts, 3 tons. There were 17 tons of metal prepared for this bell. It
was run in 7^ minutes ; took 14 days in cooling before it could be uncovered;
and is one of the most perfect specimens of gigantic casting known. Round
the top is the following inscription in Lombardic characters : —
" In sanctse et aetemGe Trinitatis honorem
Peciinia sponte collata, Eboracensea
Faciendum coraverunt in usiun
Ecclesifle metrop. B. Petri, Ebor."
And round the rim —
" Anno Salutis MDCCCXLV. Victoriaj Regina VIIL,
Edwardi Archiepi XXXVIH.
G. et G. Mears, Londini, Fecerunt.'*
This magnificent bell is in the key of F, and is at present rung by means of
a hammer and two wheels, one on each side of the axle, 14 feet in diameter,
by which imperfect mode however its powers are never fully developed.
Description. — Exterior, — The Cathedral of York, usually called York
Minster,^ is one of the most magnificent fanes of the Christian religion in
• The word Minster in the Anglo-Saxon is Myruter; in the old Franco- Grauliok, Mon-
stier; bat all from the Latin Monasteriumf a Cathedral Church and Monastery being
formerly synonimous terms. " In ancient times scarce any illustrious churches were
built without a congregation of monks to attend divine service there ; a mark whereof
remains to this day, for our Cathedral Churches are vulgarly called Minsters, or Monas-
teries. And this was according to the advice given to St. Augustine by Pojje Gregory, to
institute in his churches a body of religious persons like that in the primitive church of
430 MISTORY OP THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
existence, and is decidedly the most splendid monument in Great Britain of
r
the piety of former times ; as well as one of the most interesting comhinations
of Gothic arcliitecture in the world. Stupendous castles, splendid monas-
teries, and massy towers, reared through many ages subsequent to the erec-
tion of this superb pile, have long since mouldered away, and their site ceased
to be known ; but the withering finger of time has failed to devastate this
elaborate erection. This sumptuous church, where Kings have knelt down
to worship Him, who is the King of Kings, and warriors laid aside the pa-
noply of human warfare to sue for peace with heaven, is a very conspicuous
object for miles on all sides of the city.
Its ground plan is a Latin cross, in which a peculiar symmetr}^ is observable,
owing to the uniform regularity of its construction ; a feature which few Ca-
thedrals possess, on account of the many subordinate chapels which interfere
with their general an*angcment. The parts of the building are a nave, with
side aisles ; a transept, situate at about the middle of its length, also con-
sisting of nave and aisles ; a choir and side aisles, and a '' Ladye Chapel " in
continuation, eastward of the altar screen. A small transept is situated about
midway between the great transept and the east end of the church. Attached
to the south side of the choir, east of the south transept, are three small
chapels, and these are all the extraneous chapels which ever belonged to this
magnificent structure. A fine lantern tower rises from the intersection of
the nave and transept, and the west end is adorned with two splendid towers.
Adjoining to the north end of the eastern aisle of the great transept is the
elegant octagonal-shaped Chapter House, with its interesting vestibule.
To describe minutely all the transcendent beauties which are constellated
in this distinguished edifice, with all the technicality of architectural pre-
cision, ^ould be tedious to the general reader ; yet a brief outline may be
equally acceptable and useful. We will conduct the stranger therefore round
the Minster before we pass the sacred threshold to survey the beauties of
the interior.
Tho Western or Principal Fronty with its two graceful towers, has a truly
noble appearance. Human skill could scarcely have produced anything more
complete in this style of architecture. This front is divided into three com-
partments by the buttresses which support the towers. These buttresses are
riclily enchased with niches and canopies in relief, from their base to the very
Jemsfllem, in wliich none accounted those things which he possessed his own, but all
things were common amon^ them." — Cressy'a Hht^ny of the Saxon Church. The term
Minster is still retained by a few churches of eminence for their splendid appearance
and antiquity.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 421
summit, where Uiey terminate in angular heads under the cornice of the
towers, and are broken in height into four stories, gradually diminishing in
breadth and projection as thej rise.
At this front there are three entrances, the central one of which is of
elegant workmanship and curious design. It is divided bj a pillar, composed
of three clustered columns, with foliated capitals, into two doorways, crowned
with pointed arches ; the points of these arches bear a circular window, the
tracery of which is formed of six trefoils in triangles ; and the whole is
enclosed within a splendid recessed arch, composed of various mouldings
relieved by hollows; the mouldings being occupied by the most delicate
sculptures of flowers, niche work, &c. In one of the mouldings of the arch
are sixteen delicate and elegantly executed niches, each containing a sculp-
tured scene from the history of Adam and Eve. Over the top of the great
door, in a sitting posture, is a statue of Archbishop de Melton, the principal
founder of this part of the church, who is represented with a model of the
building in his hand ; and in niches on each side of the tympanum are figures
of Robert de Vavasour, holding a piece of rough unhewn stone in his hand ;
and William de Percy, holding the similitude of a piece of wrought timber,
to commemorate their respective gifts of stone and timber for the choir of the
church. Above this doorway is a grand window of elegant design — an un-
rivalled specimen of the leafy tracery which marks the style of the middle of
the 1 4th century. It is divided by muUions into eight lights, and the head
of the arch is filled with a beautiful arrangement of trefoils and other orna-
ments. Like the doorway this window is covered with a pediment, and
accompanied with niches. A cornice and pierced battlement then succeed,
over which the elevation finishes in a low pediment, the raking cornice of
which is ornamented with a graduated battlement, and on the apex is a
handsome pinnacle. The whole of this front has niches, with pedestals for
statuary, but whatever might have been the intention of the architects, it
appears that they have never been occupied. In the front of one of the
buttresses of the north tower, is a very large niche, on the pedestal of which
are the remains of a person seated upon a horse or mule, with another figure
minus the head and shoulders, standing a little behind. The upper part of
the mounted figure is gone, but when perfect, the whole was probably a
representation of the Flight into Egypt. On the corresponding buttress
. of the south tower is a niche of the same size, having on its pedestal the
remains of a man on horseback, with figures beneath the horse s feet. The
whole of the upper part of the mounted figure is also gone. Gent says that
the subject in this niche, when perfect, was a representation of a knight
4^2 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
trampling envy, &c,, under foot There are similar niches in the oiher two
buttresses of this front, but the niches are vacant.
The towers, which are uniform, and of graceful elevation, and in ten
several contractions, all cloistered for imagery, are four stories in height.
The upper stories are more modem than the rest of the front, they having
been built by John de Bermingham, who was treasurer of the church about
the year 1433. The ground floors of the towers contain entrances to the
church, and the three succeeding stories have windows, the general style of
decoration assimilating with the central portion. The finish of the elevation
of each tower is a pierced parapet, embattled and surmounted by eight
crocketed pinnacles, four at the angles, and one situated in the centre of each
side. The entrance to the church in the lower story of the towers, though of
a subordinate character to the centre doorway, are still very fine, each having
a handsome deeply recessed arch, supported by columns similar to the centre
door. Two of the windows of each tower on every side are glazed, but the
windows of the upper stories are filled with weather boarding. On the west
side of the south tower, a little higher up than the leads, is an inscription
having the appearance of Old English characters, representing the word,
Ber-hing-ham. At each end of the word, and between its divisions, are
figures of chained eagles and bears. This is the memorial of the above-
named treasurer, who rebuilt or finished this as well as the north tower.
The dilapidations which time and fanatical zeal had inflicted on the
statuary and the ornamental work of tlie west front were well restored by Mr.
Taylor, sculptor, of York, in 1808, and the steps which grace the three
entrances were discovered and laid bare in 18/28, whilst levelling the ground
in frt)nt of the building. The stone of which the lower part of this front of the
Cathedral is constructed, was brought frx)m the quarries near Tadcaster ; but
that of the two towers was probably obtained frt)m the quarries of Stapleton,
near Pontefract ; for among the archives of the Duchy of Lancaster, is a
grant dated 17th of July, 1400, to the Dean and Chapter to be exempt fix)m
the payment of tolls and other customs on the river Aire, for stone to be
carried to York Cathedral, for the new works.
Tfi£ Nave, which was commenced by Archbishop le Komayne, in 1291, is
divided into seven parts by buttresses, and consists, as usual, of two stories,
that is the centre has a clerestory, or a story rising above the side aisles.
In every division of the aisle is a fine window of three lights, made by mul-
lions.* The clerestory has a window of five lights in each division, with
• Mallions are the solid species of masonry which di\'ide the space of a window into
compartments.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 423
generally a circle or wheel in the head of the arch, filled with quatrefoil
tracery. The finish is an open battlement over a leaved cornice. The North
side is finished in a plain style, and has no pinnacles over the buttresses. It
was formerly blocked up by the Archbishop *s palace, and this probably ac-
counts for the absence of elaborate ornament. The flying buttresses towards
the clerestory were removed at an early period. The South side resembles
the opposite side in its general character and decorations ; the buttresses are
surmounted by lofty and elegant pinnacles, instead of the dwarf caps on the
other side. In each is a niche, and in them are statues of Our Saviour,
Archbishop St. William, and the four Evangelists. These pinnacles have
been completely restored within the last twenty-five years. The whole of
the portions of the church already described, are, with trifling exceptions, in
the richest style of the 14th century.
The SotUh Transept is, with the exception of the crypt, the oldest portion of
the church. The early date of this transept is evinced by the acutely-pointed
arches, and slender pillars, with plain or slightly ornamented capitals, and
its angular pediments. The chasteness of its ornaments forms a strong con-
trast with the sumptuous grandeur of the nave. The whole front is divided
by buttresses into three parts, corresponding with the three internal aisles.
These buttresses are ornamented by pointed arches of the lancet form, and
surmounted by four octagonal turrets, of a later style of architecture. In the
the central division is the principal porch or South Entrance of the Cathedral,
approached by two spacious flights of steps, an unusual appendage to an
ancient building. After the Reformation, we are tpld by Cooke, "some
avaricious Dean leased out the ground for some space on each side of these
steps, for building houses and shops on." These buildings, which *' were of
great discredit, as well as an annoyance to the fabric " continued, he tells us,
" till the worthy Dean Gale, amongst other particular benefactions, sufiered
the leases to run out, pulled down the houses, and cleaned this part of the
church from the scurf it had contracted by the smoke proceeding from these
dwellings."*
The arch of entrance is pointed, and was altered about forty years ago ;
and an ancient clock, which stood over it, with two wooden statues in armour
of the time of Henry VII., that struck the quarters on two small bells, was
removed at the same time, and the present handsome dial substituted. The
second story has lancet windows ; and the third, which is crowned with a
pediment, has a beautiful circular rose or wheel window, one of the most
* Cooke's Topographicfd Description of Yorkshire.
424 UISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OK YORK.
Splendid of the kind in England. It is sometimes called the marigold win-
dow, from its resemblance to that flower. It consists of three concentric
circles, the smallest occupied with six sweeps ; the second has twelve columns,
surmounted by trefoil arches, disposed in the manner of the spokes of a wheel ;
and the third has twenty-four similar arches disposed in the same manner.
Above this is a triangular window, and the apex is surmounted by a small
spire, commonly called the Fiddler's turret, from a small effigy of a fiddler
which crowns it. This effigy was removed ^m some other part of the build-
ing, and placed here. The aisles have lancet windows, and the general style
of the decorations correspond with the centre. The west side of the south
entrance is disfigured by a plain irregular building of two stories, now used
as the WUl Office of the diocese. The low buildings on the east of the same
entrance are vestries and out offices of the church. They were formerly
chantries, and one of them was known as Archbishop de la Zouche's Chapel,
already noticed. It is much to be regretted in the many improvements which
of late years have been made in the immediate neighbourhood of the Minster,
that these excrescences, which are of a dififerent style of architecture, and at
variance with the scope and design of the noble edifice, and nrhich consequently
deform it, have been allowed to continue. Were it not for these erections,
the spectator would be presented with a clear and unbroken coup d'csil of the
Cathedral, incomparable in magnificence and extent.
The North Transept exhibits the finished neatness and plainness of the
first period of the pointed style. The walls both of the aisle and doorway
are finished with a block cornice, with enriched mouldings and plain parapet.
The windows are narrow and acutely pointed, and buttresses are attached to
the piers, having angular pedimental caps. The turrets at the angles seem
unfinished as they are left without spires or pinnacles, and the point of the
gable ends abruptly, without any decoration. The north front commences
with a low blank arcade, or a series of arches with trefoil heads. Above the
arcade is a fine window of five long single lancet lights ; and higher up still
is another of a like number of lights ; both of unequal height. The west
aisle has a double lancet window, which is finished with a raking cornice.
The end of the eastern aisle is built against by the vestibule of the Chapter
House. Some years ago this front was partially restored, and portions of it
were considerably altered.
The Choir is in the scune style as the nave, though of a later period. On
each side, about midway, is a projection above the side aisles, called the
lAttle Transept, with a lofty window rising from the middle of the aisle to
nearly the top of the choir, and also with windows over the side aisles. This
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 426
transept projects no further than the walls of the aisle. This transept has
somewhat the appearance of a square tower, though not carried higher than
the walls of the nave. At the angles are douhle buttresses, ending in pin-
nacles, and in the flank walls above the aisles are windows to correspond
with the others. The space between the great and little transept is in three
divisions, with windows filled with tracery of an elegant but more regular
design than the nave ; the buttresses are crowned with pinnacles, and the
finish to the walls is similar to the nave. The four divisions eastward of
this transept are uniform with those before described, except that the cleres-
tory windows are fronted with open screens of beautiful stone work, which
gives them the appearance of unglazed windows. This feature is peculiar to
this Cathedral in England, but it occurs in some of the continental churches.
The great east window has a similar screen-work before it, towards the in-
terior. The cornice under the battlements is more perfect towards the
eastern part, and exhibits beautiful foliage. The spouts are sculptured with
bold projecting figures, through which the water is conveyed from the roofs.
The Ecutem Fronts which is extremely beautiful, is divided by buttresses
into three portions, answering to the nave and aisles. The buttresses are
adorned with niches, pedestals, and canopies, formerly filled with statues,
but, excepting three of them, now empty. The north and south buttresses
are octagonal, and contain staircases. The great east window in the centre
is of the most magnificent proportions, and unrivalled workmanship. Pugin
considered it the finest window in the world. It is divided in breadth
by mullions into nine divisions, which are made by transoms into three
tiers of lights, and the head is occupied by three sub-arches, and a number
of minute compartments. Over the lofty arch is a fine sweeping ogee
moulding, with foliage canopy, remarkable for its fine curve and lofty
termination. Above the canopy is some highly elaborate and beautiful
tabernacle work, and in the centre is a square turret, with a crocketed finial.
The aisles have windows of three lights of a corresponding character, and
similar in finish to the centre. The statue in the niche, immediately over
the point of the window, is supposed to represent Archbishop Thoresby, the
builder of this part of the fiEibric. The figure, which is robed and seated,
holds in its left hand the model of a church, and points to the window with
its light. In the niches in the extreme angular buttresses, are statues of
Vavasour and Percy, who bestowed the stone and timber for the building.
The seventeen heads at the base of the great window represent Our Saviour
(the centre one), the Twelve Apostles, and some of the ancient fathers of the
church. The north and south aisles of the choir pretty much correspond,
3 I
4'^0 HISTORY OF HIE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
except that the front of the latter is disfigured hj the addition of the hefore
mentioned vestries. The south side of this choir is now heing restored.
The OreiU Central or Lantern Tower, rises from the intersection of the
nave and transept, and surmounts the whole Cathedral- " This magnificent
erection/* writes Britton, ''hears evident marks of the Tudor style. On
each of its four sides are two large windows, with two tiers of mullions
bounded on each side bj compartmented buttresses. The battlements are
richly perforated." Drake says that ''tradition assures us it was meant
to be carried much higher, by a spire of wood, covered with lead on the top
of it ; but the foundation was found too weak for such a superstructure,"
and recent discoveries have tended to strengthen this opinion. Great
fault has been found with this tower, because it is not surmounted by
pinnacles, as are the other parts of the Cathedral ; but this defect is in some
sort compensated for by the massive appearance which the absence of pin-
nacles give it. The top is reached by a spiral staircase of 273 steps, and the
labour of ascending is well repaid by the view that it affords of the country
for many miles round. The highest point of this tower is 213 feet from the
ground. It is 65 feet in breadth, and is said to be the most massive tower
in England. In the year 1666, by order of the Duke of Buckingham, a
turret of wood was erected, covered with lead and glazed, on the top of this
steeple. This was to put lights into upon occasion, to serve as a beacon to
alarm the country, in case the Hollanders or French, with both which powers
we were then at war, should attempt to land on our coasts.
Interior. — On entering the Cathedral from the west endy'i' the vastness
of its dimensions, the justness of its proportions, and the chaste simplicity
and beauty of the arrangement, produce an intense impression of grandeur.
Architecture perhaps never produced, nor can imagination easily conceive a
vista of greater sublimity and magnificence than that which is seen from this
entrance. The spectator has before him a perspective of upwards of 500 feet,
the continuity of the vaulting broken in a pleasing manner about the centre
of the lantern tower. In contemplating this spacious nave, with its beautiful
columns, and ceiling groined and ribbed, the beholder may fancy himself
within a superb avenue of lofty trees, whose upper branches are elegantly in-
tertwined in an endless variety of complicated combinations. He views the
grand design with increasing attention, and soon becomes imbued with other
sentiments than those of mere admiration of the building, as a superb speci-
• The principal entrance to the Cathedral is at the west front, but it is now used only
at funerals, or the reception of an Archbishop, in solemn procession for enthronization ;
or in cases of visits from royal or very distioguished personages.
HISTORY OF TUE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 427
men of the almoBt unlimited extent to which the exertions of human science
may be carried. Wordl j considerations are rapidly swept away to make room
for ideas of greater solemnity. Another fine point of observation is beneath
the central tower. Here may at once be seen the lengthened aisles and lofty
columns ; the statuary screen, which divides the nave and choir, and the
several painted ^nndows. To describe the efifect which this grand scene must
produce on the mind of the spectator, must unavoidably be to do it injustice.
It must be experienced to be felt and understood, for he is now within the
sacred walls of one of those grand churches, which, as Wharton observes, are
of wonderful mechanism, constructed on principles of inexplicable architecture,
and possessing a t^idency to impress the soul with sensations of awe and
religioas veneration.
The elevation of the nave is in three heights or stories, as is usual in most
Cathedrals. It is separated irom the side aisles by long ranges of finely clus-
tered columns, of which the central shafts rise to the roof, and the others
support a series of graceful arches in the Early Pointed style, chastely and
appropriately enriched. The capitals are ornamented with leaves, and the
mouldings of the arches, which form the first story of the elevation, and the
other architectural details, though rather plain, have a most pleasing effect.
The Triforium, or second story, consists of five lofty narrow trefoiled arches,
with acute angular canopies, and an open screen runs in front of it. This
division of the height of the nave is in a manner united with tbe tbird or
clerestory. The latter contains a noble range of windows, divided by slender
mullions into five hghts, having in the crown of the arch a circular light,
filled with quatrefoil tracery. Nearly every one of the clerestoiy windows
have a considerable quantity of stained glass, principally shields of arms, &c.
In the spandrils of the principal arches are shields, carved with various coats
of arms in reUef. Those on the North Side are the arms of the famihes of
Vavasour, Roos, Percy, Greystock, Latimer, Vere Earls of Oxford, Beau-
champ Earls of Warwick, Bohun Earls of Hereford, Aymer de Valence Eaii
of Pembroke, Cobham, Ulphus, and Ferrers. On the South Side, Vavasour
and Percy, Warren Earls of Surrey, Wake, Devereux, Reresby, De Mawley
Lords of Donoaster, Clare Earls of Gloucester, Bek of Eresby, Royal Arms
of England, and those of a Prince of Wales. Each of the centre compart-
ments of every division of the second story formerly contained a statue, of
which only five now remain. The most perfect is in the fifth division from
the west, on the south side, which represents St. George ; and on the opposite
side is a large wooden dragon, which served as a lever to lift the cover of
the old font.
428 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
The vaulted ceiling is of wood, plainly groined ; the bosses being carved
with incidents in scriptaral history, or device in relief. The present roof was
erected in 1841, the whole of the previous one having been burnt in the dis-
astrous fire of 1840. Formerly the groins and knots were enriched with
paints and gold.
The Aisles are ornamented in a style equally splendid with the nave.
They are lighted by an elegant range of windows, each of three lights, with
quatrefoiled circles and tracery. Below each window are several upright
compartments, divided by buttresses, ending in pinnacles. A triple cluster of
columns, uniform with those of the main pillars, is attached to the piers
between the windows, and these in part sustain the vaults, which are of stone,
groined with arches and cross springers. An arched doorway in the north aisle
formerly led into the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, or of St Sepulchre, as
it is commonly called, built by Archbishop Roger, and long since destroyed.
Over this doorway are two shields, charged with the arms of Old France and
England, and between these, on the point of the arch, is a mutilated statue
of the Blessed Virgin and Divine Child, standing on a pedestal, but the upper
part of the figures are now gone ; and near this are two angels in alto relievo,
the heads of which have disappeared. A little beyond this doorway is an
altar tomb, which is attributed, but without foundation, to Archbishop Roger.
The large doors of the central entrance are separated by a slender pier,
adorned with a beautiful small niche and canopy ; over which is a circular
compartment glazed and ornamented with tracery ; and on each side is an
escutcheon of arms, one assigned to Edward JQ., and the other to the Saxon
Prince Ulphus. On each side of this door are two series of niches resembling
the stall work in the aisles, which, with the doorway, entirely fill up the
cespa beneath the great west window.
Two series of niches, with pedestals for statues and angular canopies, oc-
cupy the jambs of the window, and the rest of the wall below the vault is
ornamented with upright panels ; so that every portion of the wall from the
pavement to the ceiling is tastefully covered with ornament, and the side
divisions which occupy the towers, partake of the same kind of sculptured
work. Above the arches of the doorways are reliefs representing, on the
north side, the subject of a fox chase ; and on the south, a combat between a
knight and an uncouth looking animal. The relief in one of the quatrefoil
panels on the latter door, represents Sampson tearing open the jaws of a lion,
whilst the faithless Delilah behind him is cutting ofi" his hair. The relief
which accompanies it, as well as the reliefs in the quatrefoils of the north
door, are unintelligible. The towers are cut off from view by plain floors of
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORE. 429
wood. The Ptwefnent is a mosaic pattern on the grandest scale, but as has
already been observed, it is utterly at yariance with the architecture of the
church. The old pavement, which was removed in 1736, was marked with
circles supposed to point out the stations of the dignitaries of the church in
the ancient processions.
The Transept, which is also in the early pointed style of architecture, con-
sists of three aisles ; the nave or largest aisle, in common with the rest of
the church, shows three stories in elevation. The first consists of large
pointed arches, springing from piers set about with numerous clustered
columns. The second story shows a large circular arch, divided into two
others, which in like manner are subdivided into smaller ones; and the
clerestory consists of an arcade of acutely pointed arches of equal height,
three in each division being pierced to admit light. The south transept is
three lays or arches in length from the centre tower, and it is remarkable
that the columns and arches exhibit different styles of proportion and orna-
ment. The two bays nearest the tower are filled up with masonry, as a
support to the piers of that massive structure. The present vaulted and
groined ceiling is of wood, and is ornamented with a greater profusion of in-
tersections and bosses than the nave. The ceiling was originally much
lower, but when the arch which supports the great tower, was erected, it was
necessary to raise the ceiling of the transepts to a corresponding height.
The aisles hare lancet windows without tracery, in pairs, the dados being
ornamented with trefoil arches in blank. The vaulted roof of stone resembles
that in the aisles of the great nave. The interior of the south front is pecu-
liarly grand. The large circular window at the top, and the three middle
windows are very fine. The north arm of the transept is more regular and
well finished than the south. Its principal feature is the elevation of the
north end, which contains the window of five lancet lights called the Five
Sisters, from a tradition that the patterns of the several divisions were wrought
in tapestry by five sister nuns, and presented to the church. When viewed
from the south end the effect of this window is only inferior to that of the great
east window. One of the plain windows at the end of the west aisle was
that through which the fanatic lunatic Jonathan Martin made his escape,
after firing the choir in 1829. The door through the eastern wall, at present
opening into the yard, is supposed to have formerly communicated with a
Chapter House older than the present one. The east aisle of this transept
was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, founded by Richard de
Chester, Canon of the Church in 1346. The baptismal font stands at the
430 HISTORY OF THE CATHED&VL OF YORK.
end of the western aisle of the south arm of die transept. It is a large circular
basin of dark shell marble, not remarkable for any curious workmanship.
The Central Tower is supported by four massive piers, surmounted by
smaller columns. From these piers spring four elegantly pointed arches,
nearly 100 feet high, above which is a gallery in design closely resembling
the stall woi^ in the aisles of the nave ; and this is surmounted by eight
lofty windows, two in each wall, measuring 45 feet in length. The groined
ceiling of wood, which is 180 feet from the ground, assimilates with the nave,
the centre boss containing small statues of St Peter and St Paul, with a
church between them ; and on four knots round about are cherubims with their
wings, as mentioned in one of Ezekiel's visions, having on them the face of a
man, a lion, an ox, and an eagle. In the spandrils of the beautiful arches of
this tower are shields, charged as follows: — On the east the Pallium, the papal
insignia of Archiepiscopal authority, and the arms of St. Wilfrid ; on the north
the arms assigned to the Saxon Kings Edwin and Edmund the Martyr ; on
the south the peculiar arms of the See, and those of Walter Skirlaw, the
great benefactor of this part of the building ; and on the west those of Edward
the Confessor, with the arms of England emblazoned in such a manner as
to prove that the tower was not completed till the reign of Henry V. or
Henry VI., who were the first that altered the old French bearing. Nothing
finer than tha interior of the lantern can be imagined ; the windows are of a
size sufficient to fiU the whole interior with a brilliant light, and, it may be
added, that the immense height of the vaulting fiUs the mind with a feding
of vastness not easily forgotten. The tower forms a magnificent vestibule
to the choir.
The Stone Organ Screen, which stands between the two easternmost piers
of the tower, and divides the nave from the choir, is a curious and elaborate
piece of workmanship, the history of which is not precisely known. The
doorway in the screen, which is the entrance to the choir, and which is not
exactly in the centre, is a pointed arch, the jambs having attached columns
with leaved capitals, with an ogee canopy terminated with a crocketed finial.
In this doorway is an iron gate of curious design. There are also coires-
ponding gates at the entrances to the side aisles of the choir. These gates
were formerly of wood. The western face, or exterior of the screen, is com-
posed of fifteen compartments, containing a series of richly canopied niches,
in which are placed on elegant pedestals the statues of the Kings of England,
ranged in chronological order, from William the Conqueror to Henry VI., in
their ancient regal costume. The name of each statue is inscribed on its
HISTOKY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 431
pedestal in Latin. Above the niches are narrow shrines richly canopied, and
containing two rows of small but elegant full length winged figures, repre-
senting the angelic choir ; and above the rich tabernacle work is a row of
demi-angels. This screen is gorgeous in the extreme, the bands of delicate
tracery with which it is adorned are most elaborately sculptured. It would
seem that the artist was determined to charge every part with ornament,
and to exert the fullest latitude of fancy in giving variety and intricacy to
its complicated members.
The statues of the Kings are nearly of the natural size. There are seven
figures on the north side and eight on the south side, viz. : — North Side —
WOliam L, William 11., Henry I., Stephen, Henry 11., Richard I., and
John. South Side — Henry III., Edward I., Edward IE., Edward HE.,
Richard 11., Henry IV., Henry V., and Henry VI. The niche filled by the
statue of Henry VI. was long occupied by one of James I. Tradition reports
that this niche was originally filled by a statue of " that weak, but reputedly
pious monarch," Henry VI., and that it was taken down to *' prevent the
stupid adoration of the lower ranks of the people," who commiserated the
misfortunes of that ill-fated King to a very great extent. " But it is more
probable,", writes Mr. Baines, " that it was his successor Edward IV., who,
being the sun of the political firmament, became the object of adoration, and
that to him the homage of courtly devotion was offered by removing the
statue of his rival. For some ages," the same writer continues, *' the place
remained imoccupied, but on the visit of James I. to York, he was compli-
mented by being placed in the empty celL"* Dr. Milner conjectures that
this screen was taken from the church of St. Mary's Abbey in this city ; that
it lay at the Manor Palace for many years, that King James I. presented it
to the Cathedra], and that in compliment to him the Dean and Chapter
placed his statue in the vacant niche. The statue of James has been trans-
ferred to Ripon Minster, and the present well executed figure of Henry VI.
the work of Mr. Michael Taylor, a native artist, was set up during the
present century. From the statue of this monarch having been the last of
the series, it has been inferred that the screen was executed towards the end
of his reign. Many of the smaller parts of the screen have been restored by
Bemasconi. Above this screen, and occupying the site of the ancient rood,
is the organ. After the fire in 18/29, it was proposed to place the organ and
screen further eastward, so as to bring more into sight the magnificent pillars
that support the central tower, but so much opposition was made to it, that
the plan was abandoned.
♦ Gazetteer of Yorkshire, vol. ii,, p. 39.
432 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
T?ie Choir, — It would be difficult to imagine anything more solemn, beau-
tiful, or gorgeous than this division of the church, with its immense east
window, elegant altar screen, pulpit throne, and tabernacle carvings over the
stalls, when viewed from the archway under the organ. The architecture of
the choir is more ornamental in its character than that of the nave, although
the general style of the decoration is similar. The roof, which is wood, is
loftier, and more intricately groined, and the bosses are more numerous, than
the nave, and an elegant kind of festoon work descends from the capitals of
the pillars, from which the vaulting springs. The side elevation of the great
or central aisle of this portion, like the other parts of the edifice, is made into
three stories. The principal arcade differs but little from the nave ; and the
intervals between the arches are embellished with shields of armorial bearings.
The openings of the triforium, or gallery story, consists of a series of five
cinquefoiled arches, with canopies and crocketed finials, divided in the centre
by horizontal transoms ; and a stone rail in front forms a protection to the
persons who may be stationed there. In the clerestory is a beautiful range
of windows of five lights, with cinquefoiled heads, having the crown of the
arch enriched with elegant tracery. The walls of the aisles of the choir are
panelled, and are enriched with tracery corresponding with the character
of the windows. The windows of the aisles have three lights, with per-
pendicular divisions in the heads of the arches, but the design is far less
elegant than the nave. The same simple stone roof, which covers the aisles
of the nave, is used in these aisles. The introduction of the smaller transept
does not break the continuity of the great arcade, but the only part in ^hich
it enters into the design, is at the clerestory ; the window, with its gallery,
being omitted, and a panelled breast-work placed on the cornice over the
point of the arch, thus allowing a view of the lofty window and handsome
groined ceiling of this singular appendage to be obtained from the choir.
The effect of this transept, when viewed from near the pulpit, is remarkably
beautifuL The shields of arms in the choir are as follows : — South Side,
Cross of St. George, Edward the Confessor, the Saxon monarchs Edwin and
Oswald, Mortimer, Ulphus, Percy ; the same quartering Lucy, Scrope, Skir-
law. Roes, NeviUe Earls of Westmorland, City of York, Montague Earls of
Salisbury, Beauchamp Earls of Warwick, Lacy, Royal Arms of England,
anterior to Henry V. North Side, Vavasour, Neville, Danby or Fitzhugh,
St. William, badges of the See of St. Wilfrid, Emblems of the Passion of our
Lord, Greystock, Latimer, Clifford Earls of Cumberland, Bohun Earls of
Hereford, Royal Arms of England, a Prince of Wales, Longespee Earls of
Salisbury. Little Transept, SoiUh, Dacre, Beauchamp, Percy, and Vava-
sour ; North, Clifford, Latimer, Danby, Pollington, Neville, and Scrope.
HISTURY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 433
Behind the present altar or communion tahlo, to which is an ascent of
fifteen steps, is a beautiful stone screen, of Gothic architecture, divided into
eight uniform compartments by slender panelled buttresses, terminated with
crocketed pinnacles. Each compartment contains in the lower division a
triple shrine of niches, and in the upper an open arch, separated by slender
mullions into three divisions, surmounted by a square head, of wliich the
spandrils are pierced in quatrefoil circles ; and above these is a delicate open
embattled parapet. The intervals of this exquisitely wrought screen have
been filled with plate glass, affording a view of the eastern portion of the
choir, and of the superb east window. This screen, which is forty-nine feet
in length, and twenty-eight feet high, is one of the most beautiful specimens
of pierced stone work in England. Before the Reformation the high altar
stood one arch further westward, and immediately behind it was a large
wooden screen, handsomely painted and gilded, which obscured the present
stone erection, and obstructed the view of a great part of the fine east window
from the choir. At each end of this screen was a door, which opened into a
small room behind the altar, called the sanctum sanctorum, in which, anciently,
the Archbishop used to robe at the time of his enthronization, and from
thence proceed to the high altar, where he was invested with the pallium ;
and above it was a gallery, with desks in the form of battlements, for the
musicians required in the celebration of the gorgeous services of the Catholic
Church. In 1726 this wooden screen was pulled down; the altar carried
back to where it now stands; and in 1760 a piece of tapestry was removed
which hung before the present screen. By these alterations a view of one
of the noblest lights in the world has been opened, and this magnificent
stone screen — esteemed by the curious one of the greatest beauties of the
church — ^brought into view. The altar railing is also of cut stone.
The space between the altar screen and the eastern end of the church was
formerly a chapel, dedicated to God, in honour of the Blessed Virgin, and
commonly called the Ladye Chapelle. This was the most remarkable of the
many chapels which were in this church. It was founded by Archbishop
Thoresby, who, according to Stubbs, "as a true respecter of the Virgin
Mother of God, adorned it with wonderful sculpture and painting." At the
Reformation the works of art in this chapel were torn to pieces and destroyed.
Mr. Ralph Thoresby, the northern antiquary, had a large piece of carved
work, which, in his Ducatus Leodiensis, he tells us, was discovered in the
beginning of the last century, " between two walls, in a private house, in the
neighbourhood of the Minster, and sold by parcels to statuaries and others
for common use." Thoresby, supposing that piece of statuary work to have
3 K
434 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
belonged to the Ladje Chapel, preserved it as a great curiosit j, and as a tribute
of respect to the memory of the Archbishop, his ancestor ; and his regret for
the destruction of this curious chapel, makes him break out in the words of
the Psalmist, " A man ^tas famous as he had lifted up axes upon the thick
tree, but now they break down the carved work thereof with axes and ham*
mers." In 1835 were found buried on the premises of the late Mr. Swineard,
surgeon, in Precentor's Court, near the western front of the Cathedral, a
beautiful piece of carved stone work, which is now in the Yorkshire Aluseum,
and which the learned Curator of Antiquities says, is most probably another
portion of the carved work of which Mr. Thoresby speaks. " But the style
and character of these remains," he adds, " are clearly of a later age than
that of Archbishop Thoresby. They appear to have belonged to a magnifi-
cent shrine ; and such a shrine may have been erected behind the high altar
in what is usually denominated the Lady Chapel; and it may have been one
of those which Henry VIIL, during his visit to York in the year 1541,
ordered to be taken down.* Wherever it may have been placed, and when-
ever removed, large portions of it appear to have been collected, and carefully
concealed in his private residence by some one, who hoped the time would
come when it might be set up again in its original beauty in its proper place. "f
Another portion of one of the niches of this shrine, which had been long
affixed to the north-east side of the exterior of Clifford's Tower, has been re-
cently removed to the Museum ; as well as a part of the ornamental work of
the same shrine, which had been placed several years ago in the garden of
the late Robert Driffield, Esq., on the Mount without Micklcgate Bar ; and
smaller fragments of this beautiful work may be seen inserted as ornaments
in the waUs of several houses in York.
The Lady Chapel is now chiefly remarkable for the number of monuments
it contains. The north side of it was formerly another chapel, dedicated in
honour of St. Stephen ; and on its south side was the chapel of All ScUnts.
In Dodsworth's Collections, printed in Stephen's additional volumes to the
Monasticon; and in Torre's Manuscripts will be found a catalogue of the nu-
merous chantries of this church, with the names of their founders, original
endowments, annual value, &c.
The elaborate design of the great East Window is strengthened internally
by a series of muUions placed at a short distance from, and exactly agreeing
with those which contain the glazing. This is peculiar to the present
* See Mr. Hunter's " Account of King Hemy the Eighth's Progress in TorkBhire."
Published in Memoirs illttstrative of the Antiq. of York by the Archeeol. Institute.
f Descriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Grotmds of the Museum.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 435
church, upon the second transom runs a gallery, fronted by a parapet,
pierced with upright cinquefoil divisions, and from which an excellent view
of the whole interior of the church may be obtained. The dados of this win-
dow, as well as of those at the extremities of the aisles are richly panelled,
and the jambs ornamented with niches. The pavement of the choir, in-
cluding the Lady Chapel, is beautifully relaid in mosaic.
The furniture of the choir is of the most magnificent description. The
design of the oak pews and ornaments is very nearly a counterpart of those
destroyed in 1829. The prebendal stalls, which range on both sides as far
as the throne and the pulpit, are twenty in number, and there are six on each
side of the entrance under the organ. These stalls are of oak, richly carved,
and surmounted with canopies of tabernacle work. The names of many of
the prebends to which they belong, are placed over them in carved oak letters.
The seats or misereres are curiously carved. The Dean occupies the first stall
on the right, the Precentor the first on the left. The desks below the stalls
for the vicars choral and choristers, are panelled in unison with the upper
works. At the east end of the stalls are the Cathedra, or Archbishop's
throne, and the pulpit, opposite to each other, both elaborately ornamented.
In the middle of the choir is a reading desk, inclosed with tabernacle work ;
and on the north side is a brazen eagle, from which the lessons are read.
This eagle, which was presented by Dr. Cracroft in 1686, was saved with
some difficulty from the fire in 1829.
The Organ is a conspicuous object on the top of the stone screen in nearly
the centre of the Cathedral. In 1632 King Charles I. levied a fine of £1,000.
upon Edward Paylor, Esq. (for some offence committed by that gentleman),
and granted it to the Dean and Chapter for various purposes, one of which
was the procuring of a new organ. A contract was accordingly entered into
with Eobert Dallam, of London, " Blacksmith," for a complete organ, which
cost J6610. By the King's desire, this organ was placed on the north side
of the choir, nearly opposite the Archbishop's throne, so that it may not im-
pede the full view of the entire Cathedral ; but it was afterwards placed over
the stone screen by Archbishop Lamplugh, at the expense of the Earl of
Strafford. This instrument was destroyed by the fire in 1829.
The present magnificent organ, which is unquestionably the largest and
most powerful instrument of the kind in the world, as we have already said,
was presented by the Right Hon. and Rev. J. L. SaviUe, Earl of Scarborough.
Its specification was composed by Dr. Camidge, of York, the present or-
ganist, and it was built by Messrs. Elliott and HiU, of London, in 1837, and
has since been considerably enlarged.
436 HISTOKY OF TIIK CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
The exterior of the former instrument was different in form from the
present, and W6is decorated with gilded pipes and figures. The pipes of the
present organ are hronzed, and the case is of oak, simply carved. Some of
the large pipes stand at the entrance to the south aisle of the choir. During
the restoration of the great nave of the church, after the fire of 1840, a wall
of hrick was erected between the three aisles of the nave and the rest of the
church ; and by this contrivance the noise made by the workmen did not at
all interfere with the usual service in the choir.
Beneath the altar is an ancient vault or Crypt, belonging to the old choir
built by Archbishop Roger. Its original extent cannot be ascertained, as
the present portion of it is bounded by the comparatively modem work of the
choir, and the sweep of tlie arches eastward is cut off by the solid work of
the foundation of the altar screen. It is nearly square, and is divided into
four aisles from east to west, each consisting of three arches, supported by
six cylindrical columns 5 J feet in length. Although the general character
of this portion of the crypt is Norman, yet it is so strangely mingled with
architecture of a more modern date, that, taken as a whole, it may perhaps
be viewed as the workmanship of the 11th or 12th century. The columns
which support the groined arches appear to have been preserved from an
older building, and put together with little care, as the bases are too large
for the shafts, and in one instance a reversed capital is applied as a base.
Some suppose that these columns formed a portion of the church built in the
8th century, by St. Wilfrid, and were thus confusedly applied in the re-
building the edifice after its destruction in 1060. The capitals of the piUars
arc all octagonal, five of them being of singular beauty of design. Professor
Willis declares the crypt to be a mere piece of patch work, made during the
fitting up of the choir in the 14th century, out of the old materials, to sup-
port a platform for the altar, and provide chapels and altar room beneath it.
The pavement is composed of glazed tiles, coloured alternately blue and yel-
low, and of very ancient date. It is recorded that before the Reformation
there were seven altars or chantries in this crypt, and the remains of throe
of them are still visible. One of these was designated the chantry at the
altar of St. Mary in crypt is. In the crypt is a lavatory like that at Lincoln,
but its base is quite plain ; it 1ms a hole in the centre for a pipe, and the
drain is covered by a figure like a monkey crouching over its cub. In onv
of the western arches near the lavatory is a deep draw well.
Whilst the workmen were ougaged in taking up the, broken floor of the
choir after the disastrous fire of 18i^9, they came in contact with the top of
a massive pillar. This led tn n further iiiV(\-ti?ntioii, and a senrch wa*? made
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF VORK. 437
the whole length of the choir, when the remains of the Saxon edifice built
by Edwin or Oswald, and the Norman choirs erected by Archbishops Thomas
and Koger, were discovered. This excavation extends from the western wall
of the crypt, under the choir, as far as the two great columns which sup-
ported the lantern tower, and the interesting remains of the ancient church
have been arched over, and are open to the inspection of the curious. On
entering the serieaof vaults which lead westward from the crypt, are seen
six beautiful pillars of the Norman church (three on each side) 7 feet long
and 6 feet in diameter. The capitals of some of these pillars are curiously
sculptured, and from them spring the mouldings of a groined vaulting. In
the intermediate space between each pair of these columns are the bases of
two smaller ones ; and on the north side is an aisle, at the west end of
which is a very beautiful twisted column, of delicate workmanship. The
outer part of the church may still be seen, the buttresses and walls being in
a state of beautiful preservation. Amongst these ruins of the Norman
church is an ancient tomb covered with a large slab. An ascent on the
westward leads into the Saxon edifice, where we have a fine specimen of the
architecture of that period, considered equal to any in England. It consists
of a portion of the walls of the church. These walls, which are composed of
limestone and sandstone, are nearly six feet in thickness, and tlie stones are
laid in the hening bone manner, forming courses eight inches thick.
The three extraneous chapels already referred to are entered from the
south aisle of the choir. These buildings, originally built for chantry chapels,
were begun by Archbishop de la Zouch, to whom a licence was granted for
that purpose, by the Dean and Chapter, on the 14th of June, 1352. One of
these chapels is now used as a Vestry ; another, since the year 1840, has
been used as the Record Office of the Dean and Chapter ; and the third is
the room in which the EccU»iastical Court is held. In the one used as the
Record Oflice is a well, called St. Peter's Welly and chemists attribute the
excellence of the water to the small portions of limestone, washed into it by
the rain, from the walls of the edifice.
One of these chapels was formerly used as a Treasury, and in it were kept
aU the rents, revenues, grants, and charters, w^ith the common seal belonging
to the church ; and a particular officer was appointed to inspect and take
care of them. In the large inventory* of the riches belonging to this
• This inventory is given in Dugdale's Monasticon, and from it wo learn that amongst
the costly furniture, plate, &c., were many chalices of gold, and of silver, gilt and plain ;
several cups, boxes, censors, crewits, salts, paxes, ampules, pectorals, crucifixes, chris-
mntories, candlesticks, <tc., of Rold and silver. Copes of cloth of ^old and velvet, some
438 HISTOBY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
Cathedral, taken in the reign of Edward VI., is an account of the money
then in St. Peter's Chest, which was soon after seized upon, and the trea-
surer's office dissolved ; for a very good reason, says Mr. Willis, " when all
the treasure was swept away, the office of treasurer ceased of course."
Belies. — In the vestry several antique relics are deposited, the most curious
and remarkahle of which is the Horn of Ulphvs, given with all his property
to the Church of St. Peter of York. Ulphus, son of Tq^dus, was a Saxon
Prince of Deira, who bequeathed to the Cathedral aU his property, to be
held by the evidence of this horn. Camden states the occasion and form of
the bequest, as an instance of a singular mode of endowment formerly used ;
and Dugdale relates respecting it, that '* Ulphe, son of Thorald, who ruled
in the west of Deira, by reason of the difference which was likely to rise
between his sons, about the sharing of his lands and lordships after his
death, resolved to make them all alike, and thereupon coming to York
with that horn which he used to drink, filled it with wine, and before the
altar of God and Saint Peter, Prince of the Apostles, kneeling, devoutly
drank the wine, and by that ceremony enfeoffed this church with all his
lands and revenues," Several lands, part of this donation, and situated
on the east side of York, are still held by the church, and are called de
Terra Ulphi.* As a relic of Saxon art this horn is very valuable; it is
made of an elephant's tusk, is 29 inches in length, curiously carved and
poHshed, and was originally ornamented with gold and mounting. It is
said that after the surrender of York to the Parliamentarian army, in 1644,
the horn was taken from the Minster and denuded of its golden appen-
dages, but it was probably stolen from the church at the period of the
Reformation. It is evident from Camden's remarks, that the horn was not
there when he wrote in 1607. " I was informed," says he, " that this great
curiosity was kept in the church till the last age." It somehow came into
the possession of Thomas Lord Fairfax, and his successor Henry Lord
Fairfax restored it to the Cathedral. The Dean and Chapter redecorated it
embroidered, others set with pearl. Several mitres, the best of which contained 62
pointed diamonds, 51 sapphires, and 32 great pearls. Among the relics are specified
some bones of St. Peter; part of the hair of St. William; the arm of St. Wilfrid; two
thorns of the crown of Our Saviour; a tooth of St. Appollonia; part of the brain of St.
Stephen; and a cloth stained with the blood of Archbishop Scrope.
• In ancient times there are several instances of estates that were passed without any
writings at all, by the lord's delivery of such pledges as a sword, a helmet, a horn, a cup,
a bow or arrow. Ingolphus tells us that such grants were made " merely by word of
mouth, without any writing or paper, only by the lord's delivery of a sword, helmet
or horn."
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 439
with brass instead of gold, and caused a Latin inscription to be engraved
upon it, which may be thus translated : — " This horn, Ulphus, Prince of the
Western parts of Deira, originally gave to the Church of St. Peter, together
with all his lands and revenues. Henry Lord Fairfax at last restored it,
when it had been lost or conveyed away. The Dean and Chapter decorated
it anew, a.d. 1675." A sculptured bass relief of this interesting horn may
be seen above the arches of the choir and nave, in a line with various shields
coiomemorative of the different benefeu^tors of the Cathedral.
A curious cup or bowl is also in the vestry, called Archbishop Scrope's
Indulgence Cup, This elegant cup stands on three feet, and is ornamented
inside with the arms of the Cordwainer's Company ; the rim, which is edged
round with silver gilt, has the following inscription : —
" Bicharde arche beschope Scrope grant unto all tho that drinkis of
this cope XLti dayes to pardon.
Bobert Gobson beschope mesm grant in same form aforesaid XLti
dayes to pardon. Bobert Strensall.
" Popular tradition has usually stated," says the editor of York and its
Environs^ "that this cup was presented by Scrope to the Cordwainers*
Company, but recent investigation has proved this to be erroneous, and it is
now pretty much proved to have been originally given to the York guild of
Corpus Christi ; a Corporation which distinguished itself for the sumptuous
manner in which the incorporated trades and crafts of the city celebrated the
religious festival of Corpus Christi, by the exhibition of pageants and miracle
plays, which every year attracted many persons of rank and importance to
witness their representation. After the dissolution of the guild, this cup
passed into other hands, but when it came into the possession of the Cord-
wainers' Company is unknown. On the dissolution of this company in
1808, it was presented by Mr. Hornby (the last master of the company)
to the Cathedral."
A large silver crosier, or pastoral staff, is also kept in the vestry, and ex-
hibited to visitors. This crosier was given by Catherine of Portugal, Queen
Dowager of Charles 11. of England, to Cardinal Smith, her Confessor,
when he was nominated to the See of York, by James 11., in 1687. It is
recorded that as Smith was going to the Cathedral, in procession from the
Catholic chapel established by James in the Manor Palace, Lord Danby
(afterwards Duke of Leeds) wrested the crosier from him, and afterwards
presented it to the Dean and Chapter. It is 6i feet in length, weighs 13 lbs.,
and under the bend of the crook are figures of the Blessed Virgin and In-
•110 HISTORY OF THE CATUEDRAL OF YORK.
faut Saviour, as well &s the anus of Portugal on one side, and those of Smith,
with a mitre and crosier surmounted by a Cardinal's hat, on the other.
Whilst taking up the old pavement in 1730, the pastoral ring of Arch-
bishop Sewel, who died in 1258, was found, consisting of a plain ruby set in
gold; Archbishop Greenfield's, who died in 1315, a ruby set in gold; and
also that of Archbishop Bo wet, who died in 1423. The latter is a com-
position set in gold, bearing tlie motto, "Honor et Joy." These rings,
together with three silver chalices, also found in the graves of these pre-
lates, are deposited in the vestry, as well as an antique wooden head, found
on opening the grave of Archbishop Ilotherham, who died of the plague in
1500. As the body of this prelate was immediately intended without cere-
mony, it is probable that at his funeral, wliich took place when the pestilence
was abated, a wooden effigy, of which this head is a part, was substituted for
the real coq)sc. There is also preserved the old copy of the Bible with its
chain, that was formerly attached to a low desk near the door in the south
aisle of the choir, opening into the Minster Yard.
An antique chair, said to be coeval with the Cathedral, and in which
several of the Saxon Kings were crowned, and which was used at tiie corona-
tion of Edward IV. and James I., is now placed within the communion rails.
The Windows of the Cathedral are richly adorned with the representa-
tions of scriptural history, saints, kings, legends, shields, &c., in painted
glass.* ^About one hundred of them are embellished with ancient devices,
whilst only six are of modem date. It is raHier remarkable that though the
choir was so near being consumed in the fire of 1829, none of the painted
glass was materially impaired ; and with the exception of the damage to the
windows at the extreme west end of the aisles of the nave, the same remark
may be applied to that part of the building with reference to the fire of 1840.
The magnificent East Window^ the greatest light in the Minster, and
which for masonry and ancient glazing is unequalled, consists of nine lights,
and occupies almost the whole of the east end of the choir. The height of
this great window is 75 feet ; it is 32 feet in breadth ; and is embellished
vnth nearly 200 subjects from sacred history. " This window," says Drake,
" may be justly called the wonder of the world, both for masonry and glazing.
It is near the breadth and height of the middle choir. The upper part is an
admirable piece of tracery, below which are 117 partitions, representing so
much of Holy Writ, that it almost takes in the whole histoiy of the BiUe.
This window was begun to be glazed at the charge of the Dean and Chapter
• Glass windows were not used in England before the year 675. The firames were
usually filled with lattice work or fine linen cloth. — Turn. Ang. Sax., vol. ii., p. 416.
HI8T0BT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 441
in 1405, who had contracted with John Thornton, of Coyentry, glazier, to
execute it." (See page 413.) " We may suppose this man," he continues,
*' to have been the best artist in his time for this kind of work, by their
sending so far for him ; and indeed the window shews it"
** The east window surpasses all that the pen can describe, or pencil pour-
tray," writes Allen, "if we consider it in the whole, as to extent, ingenuity
of design, or richness of execution." Each pane of glass is about a yard
square ; the figures in general are about 2ft. Sin. to 2fk. 4in. high, and the
heads are most beautifully drawn. The following is a detailed description of
this window :—
The top contains a representation of Our Sayiour in Heavenly Glory sur-
rounded by angels, prophets, patriarchs, apostles, confessors, and martyrs.
Between this and the gallery are three partitions, with designs from the Old
Testament, as follows : —
Fint Partition, — The 1st compartment in this partition represents God creating the
world, with the fallen angels beneath. 2. — ^The spirit of God dividing the waters. 8. —
The herbs of the field. 4. — light and darkness. ( This and the precedent pane ieetn to
hone been tranepoeed,) 6. — Birds and fishes. 6w — ^Beasta and creeping things, with
the creation of man. 7. — God with his tice like the snn in glory, sitting in the middle
of his Creation, seeing every thing was good. 8. — ^Adam and Eve eating the forbidden
firciit in Paradise ; the serpent represented with its head like a beaatiAil woman. 9. —
An angel driving them out of Paradise.
Second Parftlioii.~l^— Cain killing his brother Abel. 2.— Noah in his Ark. 3.—
Noah dmnk, and his three sons. 4. — ^Building of Babel. 5. — Melchizedek blessing
Abram. 6. — ^Isaac blessing Jacob. 7. — Meeting of Jacob and Esau. 8. — Moses and
Aaron joining hand in hand. 9. — Jacob's sons shewing him Joseph's bloody coat
Third Partition. — 1. — Moses found by Pharoah's daughter. 2. — God out of the bnsh
calling Moses. 3. — Moses and Aaron before Pharoah ; the Bod tamed into a serpent.
4^— Pharoah and his host drowned in the Bed Sea. 6. — Moses receiving the law on
Mount Sinai. 6. — Moses rearing up the brazen serpent in the wilderness. 7. — Sampson
pulling down the house of Dagon on iiimself and the Philistines. 8. — ^David killing
Goliah with a sling. 0. — Joab killing Absalom hanging on the tree.
Of the ten partitions below the gallery, nine contain the principal subjects
in the Book of Reyelations, and the last one is occupied with representations
of difieient ecdesiagtics, kings, isc>, whose names are connected with the eaily
history of the church in this part of Britain. They are as follows : —
Firtt Partition. — 1, 2, and 8. — St. John in the caldron of oil, banished by the Em-
peror Domitian, and sailing to the island of Patmos. 4. — ^An angel coming unto St.
John, as at his devotion. 6. — The Son of Man amidst the seven candlesticks. 6. — The
Seven Churches of Asia. 7, 8, and 0. — ^The Elders worshipping God on the throne.
Second Partition, — 1. — ^Angel sounding a trumpet. 2. — The Lion of the Tribe of
Judah. 3. — The Lamb, the Four Beasts, and Elders. 4. — ^A Multitude following the
3 L
443 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TOfiC.
Lamb. 6. — The Lamb opening first seal, the white hone and its rider with a bow. 6.— '
Lamb opening the second seal, the red horse and its rider. 7. — The fourth seal opened,
the pale horse and death. 8. — The sixth seal opened, sun, moon, Stc, 0. — ^The third
seal opened; the blaok horse, its rider, having a balance. (But these, aueveral othen,
have been misplaced since the restoration of the windows hy General Fairfax.)
Third Partition, — 1. — ^Angels holding the fonr winds, and another ascending. 1, 2, 3,
4, 5, 6. — ^Angels and Elders about the throne. 7. — Opening the serenth seal. 8^—
Giving the seven angels trumpets. 9. — The fifth seal, souls under the altar.
Fourth Partitions — 1, 2, 3< — ^Angels sounding. 4. — ^Locusts like men 5. — Our Sa-
viour with a Lamb, the four Evangelists, and a book sealed with seven seals. 6. —
Armies of horse. 7. — The angel opening the book. 8. — John eating the book. 9. —
The temple from whence the voice came.
Fifth Partition, — ^1, 2, 8. — ^Two witnesses slain in the city, and ascending np. 4. —
Elders worshipping. 6. — ^Ark of the testament. The woman clothed with the sun in
travail, and the dragon appearing to devour her child. 7. — ^Michael warring against
the dragon. 8. — The woman flying into the wilderness, and the dragon casting out a
flood of waters to overwhelm her. 9. — ^Another beast risen fix)m the earth.
Sixth Partition. — 1. — ^Dragon sceptered, giving power to the beast with seven heads
and ten horns. 2. — ^The world worshipping the monster. 8. — ^An angel pouring out a
vial on the afflicted people. 4. — People worshipping the beast 6. — The third angel
pouring his vial on the rivers. 6. — ^Another angel with the gospel. 7. — ^The angel over
Babylon pronouncing tibe &11 thereof. 8. — Christ with a sickle, &c. 9. — ^Angel treading
the wine-press to the horses' bridles.
Seventh Partition,-—!. — ^Elders with their harps on a sea of glass. 2. — One of the
four beasts giving the angels the seven vials of wrath. 8. — ^Beasts warring with the
saints. 4. — ^Angel pouring a vial on the sea. 6. — ^Victory of the Lamb. 6. — ^FourUi
angel pouring a rial on sun, Ac 7. — The fifth angel pouring a vial on the seat of tike
beast. 8. — ^Undean spirits, &e., going to battle. 9. — ^Angel pouring a rial on the river
Euphrates, which runs by Babylon. (Note, the precedent two panes are misplaced.)
Eighth Partition,, — 1. — The whore sitting upon the beast. 2. — Babylon's fidl. 3. —
God praised in Heaven. 4. — ^St. John fidling at the angel's feet 6. — ^Heaven opened ;
one on a white horse, armies, &o, 6. — ^Angel crying to the fowls. 7. — Beast, kings, and
armies. 8. — ^Beast taken. 9. — ^Angel casting him into the bottomless pit
Ninth Partition, — 1. — Saints on thrones. 2. — Satan loosed out of prison. 3, 4, 5,
and 6. — The sea, death, and hell, delivering up their dead, who stand before Christ as
in judgment (attended by angelic powers holding the instruments of his passion, while
the books are opened by other angels), on his right hand are the blessed, and on the left
the wicked. 7.— New heaven and new earth. 8. — New Jerusalem, over which is
Christ enthroned, an angel with a rial and golden reed, St John beholding, *' and the
pure river of water of life, clear as crystal, proceeding out of the throne of Qod aasd of the
Lamb," 9. — Our Sariour appearing with a book opened, on which is written, Kgo,
Alpha, and Omega, and St John vniting the wonderftil things he had seen.
Tenth Partition, — 1. — Pope Gregory VII., and Archbishop Thomas I. 2, 3, and 4,
are nine Kings, viz., Ethelbert, Lucius, Ceolwulph, Edwin, Oswald, Oswin, Edward
the Confessor, Harold, and William the Conqueror. Archbishop Aldred at prayers.
5. — ^Archbishop le Zonch, with St Augustine and St Honorius, Archbishops of Canter>
HtSTOBT OF THE CATHBDBAL OF YORK. 443
boxy. 7. — St PaaliniiB, Pope Eleutherias, and St. l/niMd. 8w — St John of Bererley ;
St Calixtus Bishop of Borne, and St Egbert, King Ebianoa between two flamines or
Heathen priests; one of these high priests being dignified with the title of Proto-flam
or first flam, the other with Arch-flam only.
The windows of the little transepts in the choir, which are remarkablj
high and elegant, are diyided into 108 compartments, filled with extremely
fine paintings, iUustratiye of some passage of Holy Writ, or of ceremopies
connected with the church.
The great window over the west entrance to the church, though of con-
siderable size, is inferior to the eastern light The tracery of the upper part
of the window is rich and intricate, and the mellowed rays of light, as they
come upon the eye through the stained glass of the lower diyisions, is pecu-
liariy fine. The figures in the upper row represent the Beligious at their
devotions. Those in the middle row are the Apostles, Ac, as St Peter, St.
Paul, St John, &c. Then follow the largest effigies, which are the eight
Saints of the See, viz., Paulinus, Bosa, John of Beyerley, Wilfirid I., Egbertus,
Oswaldus, Gulielmus, and Servallus.
Tlfe west window of the north aisle of the nave has representations of St.
Catherine, St Peter, St Paul, and Christ in Judgment The first window
from the west is plain; the second contuns the Annunciation, the Wise
Men*s Offering, the Salutation of St Elizabeth, and the Arms of the Ingrams
and Grevilles ; the third has the Crucifixion of St Peter, and Confession,
Penance, and Absolution ; the fourth, the Crucifixion of our Lord, Christ
before Pilate, and the Arms of the Strongbows per paled with the Mowbrays ;
the fifth, the Crucifixion, and other subjects ; the sixth is very curious, and is
supposed to have been given to the Cathedral by the bell founders ; and the
seventh, and last in this aisle, represents St Catherine, St Alban, and
several curious legends. In the lower part of the window are the Boyal
Arms of England, and those of the Queens Eleanor of Castile, Eleanor of
Provence, and Isabella of France. The window at the west end of the soutli
aisle contains the Crucifixion, with the Blessed Virgin and St John the
Evangelist on either side. The first window from the west is plain ; the
second has St. Peter, St Christopher, and St Lawrence ; and the remaining
windows of this aisle have been made up of various subjects, principally saints
and legends. The third has the date 1789, and the sixth and seventh that
of 1783. In the latter window is a very old representation of the Crucifixion.
The beautiful lancet window of five lights, in the north front of the north
transept, is one of the chief ornaments of the church. The chaste but severe
simplicity of these lights strike the eye of the beholder immediately on en-
444 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
tering the Catliedral. No finer eiuunples of Early English windows can be
found in this countiy. The lights, which are each 64 feet in height and 5|-
feet in breadth, are fiUed with mosaic work, of an extremely rich and yaried
pattern, and their effect is beautiful. This is sometimes called the Jemsh
Window, probably firom the resemblance it bears to the embroideiy or needle-
work which was used in adorning the ancient Jewish tabernacles. As has
already been observed, this window has been traditionally named the Fice
Sisters, from its having been presented to the Cathedral by five sistei^ (nuns),
who wrought with their own hands the patterns for the stained glass devices.
The small rim of clear glass round the edges is a modem addition, and gives
it a veiy pleasing efifect. In the south transept the upper or marigold win-
dow has a fine effect from the brilliancy of its coloured glass resembling that
flower. The first window in the second tier of this front of the transept has
a full-length figure of St WiUiam ; the second, which is of two lights, has
effigies of St. Peter and St. Paul, each with his proper insignia beneath him ;
and in the next window is the effigy of St. Wilfrid. The windows of the
lowermost tier are of modem workmanship, having been executed by Mr.
William Peckitt, of York, a self-taught artbt, who died in 1795. They con-
tain very elegant full-length figures of Abram, representing Feuth ; Sdomou,
representing Truth; Moses, Righteousness: and St Peter. The window
representing St Peter was set up in 1768, and the others in 1790. The
former was presented to the Cathedral by the artist in his lifetime, and the
others were bequeathed at his death. In the east aisle of this transept is
some of the oldest glass in the churoh, representing full-lengths of St Michael,
St George, the Blessed Virgin, and Archbishop St. William.
The glass in the choir is very fine and curious. In the first window from
the west in the north aisle are representations of St Peter and St Paul, the
Blessed Virgin, and Arehbishop Bowett, at an altar. The second has
full-length figures of St. John of Beverley, Arehbishop Scrope, and St.
William, with several curious legends ; the third contains several full-length
effigies of Bishops with legends ; the fourth is the small transept window ;
the fifth has figures of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour, St Anne
and St. Elizabeth, with the infant Baptist; and round the window are
the Arms of Archbishop Scrope; the sixth exhibits St Thomas, St John,
St Edward the Confessor, and St John the Baptist; the seventh window is
blank ; and the end window of the aisle has the Cmcifixion, St James, the
Blessed Virgin, &o.
In the first window firom the west, in the south aisle of the choir, are full-
length figures of David and the Prophets Kehemiah and Malachy, with
HISTORY OF THE CATHSDBAL OF YOBK.
446
legends ; the second is fidled with legends, principally from the life of Christ;
the third has several saints within borders of pomegranate branches and
leaves; the fourth is the Uttle transept window; the fifth is filled with
legends, much confused ; the sixth has King Edwin, St. John, St. James,
&c. ; and the seventh, in the upper portion, has full-lengths of Joseph of
Aiimathea and the Saxon King, Ina, the founder of Glastonbury Monastery.
The lower part of this window, conspicuous for its vivid colours, was presented
by the Earl of Carlisle, in 1804. It is supposed to have been copied from a
design of Sebastian del Piombo, the great favorite of Pope Clement VIII.,
and was brought from the church of St. Nicholas, in Rouen, in Normandy.
The figures, which are as large as life, represent the meeting of the Blessed
Virgin and St. Elizabeth ; and the armorial bearings of the family of the
noble donor occupy the compartments.
The interior dimensions'*' of the Cathedral are as follows : —
FEBT.
Length from K. to W 524i
Breadth of the east end 105
Breadth of the west end 100
Length of oioss aisles from N. to S. 222
Height of central tower 218
Height of the nave 99
Breadth of body and side aiales . . 100
Height of the side arches N. to S. . 42
From west door to the choir 201
Length of the choir 157}
Breadth of the choir 46}
FEST.
From the choir to east end 222
From altar screen to east end 26
Height of the east window 75
Breadth of the east window 82
Height of ceiling of chapter house . . 67
Diameter from glass to glass 63
Length of the library 50
Breadth of the library 22
Height of the cornice' 22
Height of the organ screen 24
Breadth of the organ screen 60
* Table of comparative dimensions of the principal Cathedrals in England, in feet.
York
Canterbnry
Durham . . .
Ely
Gloucester
lincoln ....
St. Panl's . .
Salisbniy . .
Westminster
Winchester
542
514
420
517
420
498
500
452
489
554
222
140
176
178
144
227
248
210
189
208
I
109
74
80
73
64
83
107
76
96
86
I
S
261
214
240
327
174
252
306
246
130
247
IP
n
99
80
70
70
67
83
88
84
101
78
s
157
150
117
101
130
158
105
140
152
138
•8"«
H
n
n
mg
h
99
80
71
70
86
88
84
101 .
78
^1
"I
196
130
143
270
270
221
133
213
235
212
113
261
288
356
400
133
446 HI8T0BT OF THE CATHBDBAL OF YOBK.
Monuments. — ^The mortal remains of a very considerable number of per-
sons of rank and distinction are deposited in this ancient temple. The head
of Edwin, the first Christian King of Northumberland, who died in 663, was
interred here, and his body in the Abbey of Whitby. History also records,
amongst the distinguished persons buried here, the names of Eadbert and
Eanbald, Kings of Northumberland; Sweyne, King of Denmark; Tosti,
Earl of Northumberland, brother of Harold ; William de Hatfield, second
son of Edward m.; and a veiy large proportion of the Archbishops who have
presided over the See, firom the introduction of Christianity into this province
to the present day. The principal tombs and monimients occupy the aisles
on each side of the choir, and the Lady Chapel behind the altar screen; but
there are a few tombs and inscriptions in the other parts of the CathediaL
On entering the church at the usual door in the south front, the first monu-
ment that attracts the stranger's attention is situated in the eastern aisle of
the south transept, and is the tomb of Archbishop Walter de Orey, the founder
of this part of the Cathedral, who died in 1255 ; the founders of Cathedrals
being usually buried in the portion in which they themselves built The
design of this monument, which is one of the most interesting in the church,
is particularly elegant It is a beautiful relic of the ISth century, consisting
of two stories, or tiers of trefoil arches, supported by eight slender columns,
with capitals of luxuriant foliage, sustaining a canopy divided into eight
niches, with angular pediments, decorated with elaborate finials. These are
enriched with figures of birds, foUage, &c. ; and the sweep of the pediment
has several crockets running up its exterior moulding. On a flat tomb, under
the canopy, is an effigy of the Archbishop in his pontifical robes. This
monument is inclosed by a bronzed iron railing, of rich and elaborate work-
manship, erected by the late Archbishop Markham. The pillars supporting
the canopy are of black marble, eight feet in height This is one of the
earliest examples of canopied tombs remaining in this country. By the side
of this monument is another of a flat tabular form, supposed to contain the
remains of Archbishop Godfrey de Ludham, otherwise Kineton, who died in
1364. In the western si<]^ of the north transept is a flat tomb of black
marble, supported by iron trellis, 3i feet high, to the memory of John HaaAy^
treasurer of the Cathedral, who died in 1434. Within the grating is a
dilapidated stone figure, representing a wasted corpse in a winding sheet
According to stipulations in certain ancient deeds, payments of the Cathedral
revenues should be, and, we believe, sometimes are made on this tomb. In
the eastern aisle of the north transept is a very beautiful monument erected
over the grave of Archbishop Grenfeld^ who died in 1315. It consists of an
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 447
altar tomb, the dado enriched with panelling of pointed arches. From the
ends rise four dwarf columns, supporting a pedimental canopy, ornamented
with crockets, which terminate in a superb finial, behind which, on a column,
is a small statue of the Archbishop, in the act of giving the benediction. On
the tomb is the full-length effigy of the prelate engraved in brass, habited in
pantifictdibis. The whole is an interesting specimen of the time of Henry
YI. It was behind this monument that the incendiary Martin concealed
himself, after attending service in the choir, before setting the Minster on
fire in 1820 ; and it was through the window in the end of the west aisle
in this transept that he made his escape after the building was in flames.
Opposite to the entrance to the Chapter House is a fine altar tomb, to the
memoiy of Stephen Beckwith, M. D., who died December SSrd, 1843. On
the top is a beautiful marble effigy of the deceased, while in niches on the
sides of the tomb are recorded his munificent bequests to the di£Eerent chari-
ties in this city, which are as foUows : —
The Maseam of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society 10,000
The Minster Bells and Chapter House 5,000
Wilberforce School for the BUnd 5,000
The Female Penitentiary 5,000
Blue Coat Boys* School 8,500
Orey Coat Girls' School 3,500
The Dispensaiy. 8,500
The Church of England School '. 2,500
The Iniluit School, Skeldergate 2,500
St. Thomas' Hospital 3,500
Lady Middleton's Hospital 2,000
The Poor of St Martin's Parish and two Parishes of Bishophill . . 500
On a pillar in the south aisle of the nave is a brass plate, with the half
. length effigy of a woman in the costume of the period, with an inscription
showing that there lies buried the body of Elizabeth Eymes, one of the gentle-
women of Queen Elizabeth, and daughter of Sir Edward Neville, who died
in 1588. On the opposite side in the same aisle, on a brass plate, is a Latin
inscription, with a half length effigy, in a fur gown, of James Cotrel, Esq., a
native of Dublin, who resided some time at York, and died in 1596.
In the wall of the north aisle of the nave is a low altar tomb, the dado
ornamented with pierced quatrefoUs, through which the coffin within it may
be seen, and -covered with a low pointed arch. This tomb is supposed to
enclose the remains of Archbishop Roger, who filled the See of York, from
1154 to 1181. These are all the monuments or inscriptions now remaining
in the body of the church, though there were formerly many more.
448 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORK.
Entering the south aisle of the choir the monuments, in the order in which
they occur, are as follows : — ^A white marble monument to Christopher E. T.
OldfiM, a distinguished officer in the Indian armj, who died at Nakodah,
in the East Indies, in 1850, aged 45 years. The design is of the Italian
school, and the workmanship is very beautifuL The base is of vein marble,
having in the centre a Roman shield and helmet, with cross swords enclosed
by a wreath. The tablet and upper portion of the monument are composed
of pure statuary, being surmounted by a very elaborately executed combination
of military trophies, and the whole is placed on a ground of Galway black
marble. It was erected in 1853, at the expence of the officers of the fifth
regiment of Bengal Light Infantry, of which regiment the deceased was
Major. A small tablet to William Palmer, who died in 1605. A neat
marble tablet, with two Doric columns supporting a pediment, to the memory
of the BZ, Hon, Wm. Wiekhamf formerly of Cottingley in this county, who
died in 1840, aged 79. A tablet to Jane Hodeon, who died in 1636, in
giving birth to her 24th child, herself being only in her d8th year. She was
the wife of Phineas Hodson, Professor of Theology, and the Chancellor of the
Cathedral. It is a small compartment with two Corinthian columns, and a
plain entablature with a pediment upon which are two weeping boys, coats
of arms, an urn, and a long Latin inscription. The tomb of Sir Wm. Oee^
of Bishop Burton, in this coimty, Ent., a Privy Councillor to James I., who
died in 1611. On the tomb are effigies of himself, his two wives, and six
children, all in the attitude of prayer. A small oval tablet containing a
short inscription to the memory of Henry Witham, an officer in the Craven
Legion, who was accidentally drowned in the river Ouse, whilst stationed at
York, in 1809. It was erected by his brother officers, as a mark of respect
to his memory. An antique monument to ArehbMop Hutton, who died in
1605. The recumbent figure of the prelate is represented under an arch,
which is supported by two Corinthian columns. The entablature is sur-
mounted by coats of arms; and in front of the altar tomb, forming the
basement of the monument, are three recessed arches, containing kneeling
figures of the Archbishop's children. A marble monument, consisting of a
luge urn placed between two busts, one of which represents Henry Fineh,
Dean of York, who died in 1728, and the other the Hon. and Rev. Edward
Finch, Canon Beddentiary, who died in 1737. Above is a small pediment,
and the flamily arms with an inscription.
The monument of Nicholas Wanton, E$q,, of London, is a neat piece of
architecture, with a figure in the attitude of prayer between Corinthian pi-
lasters. The inscription states that he died in 1617, and that his brother
William is also interred near the same place.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 449
Arckhuhop Lamplugh's mouumeDt is enclosed within iron palisades, and
exhibits on a pedestal a statue of the mitred prelate in his episcopal robes,
with the crosier in his hand. Two pilasters support a semicircular pediment,
with an urn on the top. The Archbishop died in 1691, in his 76th year.
This is one of the earliest instances of monumental effigies the size of life
presented in an erect position.
A small antique monument, with the bust of a female in a niche, to Mrs.
Anne Bennet, who died in 1601.
A pyramidal monument of white marble, to the memory of TKomaa Lam-
plugh, Hector of Bolton Percy, and Canon Besidentiary of this Cathedral. He
was grandson to the Archbishop of the same name, and died in 1747, aged 60.
Near the entrance to the crypt is a marble altar tomb to Archbiakop Dolhen,
who died in 1686, in the 62nd year of his age. On the table reclines a
handsome robed and mitred figure of the prelate. On the south wall is a
beautiful marble slab, on which is represented a sarcophagus, with arms and
an inscription to the memory of the Lad-y Mary Hore, who died at York on
her way to Scarborough in 1798, aged 22 years.
The monument to the Rev, George WiUiam Anderson, who died in 1786,
in his 25 th year, consists of a compartment, with an oval inscription tablet,
and a serpent in a circle being the emblem of eternity. A variegated marble
table, on which is represented a sarcophagus in white marble, stands against
the wall, in memory of Mr. Francis Croft, who died in 1837, aged 31.
In this locality is an elegant classical monument of white marble, by
Westmacott, to the memory of Dr. WiUiam Burgh, author of a treatise " On
the Holy Trinity." The doctor was a native of Ireland, and died in York in
1808, aged 87. The monument exhibits a full length emblematical figure
of Jleligion, with a dove on her head, and bearing a cross in her hand. On
the base or pedestal is a long poetical inscription, written by J. B. S. Morritt,
Esq., of Kokeby Park, the early Mend of Sir Walter Scott
Towards the east end of this aisle is an elegant veined marble monument
of the Corinthian order, to WiUiam Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, son of the
unfortunate Eail who was beheaded. In a double niche, between beautiful
fluted columns, are whole length figures of the Earl and his Countess, with
an urn between them, and the coronet laid at their feet. On each column
stands a handsome vase or urn ; upon the pedestal, beside each figure, a
weeping cherub; and over the niche, within a circular pediment, are the
Wentworth Arms. Beneath is a long inscription, descriptive of his illus-
trious funHy connezions. The Earl died in 1096.
Next to Lord Strafibrd's is a large white marble tablet to the Bt. Hon.
3 M
430 HWTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
Lora Burton Dawnay, Viscountess Doivne, who died in 181^, aged 73. In
this neighbourhood is a neat marble tablet to the memory of the late Bev»
John EyrCf Archdeacon of Nottingham, and Canon Residentiary of York
Cathedral, who died in 1830. Also a neat monument with yarious devices,
to Edward Tippitig, Esq,, of Bellurgan Park, county of Louth, Ireland, who
died in 1789, aged 35.
A new Gothic monument in stone to George Hoare, Esq,, and Frances his
wife. The former died in 1813, and the latter in 1811. The monument con-
sists of a tablet under a beautiful canopy, adorned with finials, crockets, &c.
Over a small door in the south east comer of this aisle, is the mural
monument of Archhisliop Piers, who died in 1504, aged 71. It is a small
square compartment, with two Corinthian columns supporting an entablature
decorated with shields of aims, &c.
Those in the Lady Chapel are — ^under the great east window, a superb
monument in memory of the Hon, Tlwmcts Watson Wentworiht third son of
Edward Lord Rockingham, who died in 1723, aged 58 ; also to Thomas Watson
Wentworth, Marquis of Rockingham, who died in 1760, and was interred in
his uncle*s, the Earl of Stafford's, vault; and likewise to Charles Watson
Wentworth, the last Marquis of Rockingham, who died in 1782, aged 52, and
was buried in the same vatdt, with great honours, as already described at
page 273. This beautiful piece of sculpture, which was executed by J. B.
Guelfi Romanus, consists of an elegant basement of veined marble, on which
is a circular pedestal, whereon stands a full length figure of the first named
deceased, in a Roman habit, leaning with his left arm upon an urn. A fine
female Qgure is represented sitting on the other side, reclining her head upon
her right hand, with her elbow upon another pedestal ; the back ground of
the monument forming a pyramid is surmounted by a coat of arms. This is
the best piece of sculpture in the church.
Archbishop Henry Bowett's monument is of exquisite taste and elegance.
It is nearly 30 feet high, and is decorated with hght and lofty pinnacles,
statues, &c. The altar tomb is placed beneath an elliptical arch, covered
with tracery, and surmounted by pinnacles. The arch is pointed, and the
roof beautifully groined. The whole is a veiy fine specimen of the archi-
tecture of the 15th century. The prelate died in 1423.
Under the east window is a sumptuous marble monument to Archbishop
Sharps, who died at Bath in 1713, aged 69. It is of the Corinthian order,
with pilasters ; upon the pedestal is a mitred figure of the prelate in a re-
clining posture, being about half raised on the right arm, which rests on a
cushion, with a book in the left hand. The whole is decorated with figures
of winged cherubs, urns, drapery, J^c.
HI9T0BT OF THE CATHEDRAX. OF YORK. 451
Archbishop Matthew's monument formerly stood against the wall beneath
the great east window, but it was destroyed by the fire of 1829. His eflBgy,
though broken into three parts, is still preserved here. A descendant of that
prelate erected another handsome monument to his memory, on the south
side of the Lady Chapel, in 1844. It consists of a Gothic altar tomb of
Yorkshire stone, with a beautiful black marble slab. The sides of the tomb
are each in fiye compartments, in which are shields of arms. This prelate
died in 1628, aged 82.
On the north side of this chapel is another recently erected altar tomb, to
the memory of Archbishop Markham, who died in 1807. It is similar in
design to the last mentioned monument, and round its base is a beautiful
pavement of encaustic tiles.
In a niche in a wall under the east window is a monument to Frances
Matthew, relict of Archbishop Matthew, who died in 1629, aged 78. It ex-
hibits a female figure kneeling at a desk between two columns, with two
other figures standing near the columns in a devout posture. The whole is
decorated with angels, &c, Mrs. Matthew was daughter of Barlow, Bishop
of Chichester ; her first husband was son of Parker, Archbishop of Canter-
bury ; her second husband was Archbishop of York ; and her four sisters
each married a Bishop.
Archbishop Frewen's monument is 20 feet high and 10 broad, and consists
of two Corinthian columns, with an arched pediment, between which is a full
length effigy of the prelate in gown and cap, the whole being decorated with
books, coats of arms, <&c., and surmounted by figures of Faith, Hope, and
Charity. He died in 1664, in his 76th year.
Archbishop Scrape's monument is about 8 feet high and 8 feet long. The
sides are ornamented with sculptured shields in quatrefoil compartments.
This Archbishop was beheaded for high treason in 1406. The tomb is not
inscribed.
Archbishop de Botherham's monument is a solid Gothic altar tomb, restored
at the expense of Lincoln CoUege, Oxford, in 1832, the deceased prelate
having been the second founder of that College. The original monument,
which was erected by the Archbishop himself, and under which he was
buried, was partially destroyed at the conflagration in 1829. He died in 1500.
Archbishop SewM's (removed from the south transept) is a table monu-
ment, with a cross fiory sculptured on the top. Over it was a marble slab,
supported by twelve pillars, but this was destroyed by the fire in 1829.
The monument of the Et, Hon. Frances Cecil, Countess of Cumberland, is
a table tomb, supported by four vases. This lady was the daughter of the
452 HISTORY OF THE CATHBDRA^L OP YORK.
Earl of Salisbury, and wife of Heniy, Lord Clifford, Bromfleet, Vetrepon,
and Vessej, Earl of Cumberland, and Lord Lieutenant of the county of Yoik.
She died in 1643, in her 60th year.
Against the wall at the north side is a beautiful tablet to the memory of
Mrs. Mary ThomkiU, who died at Fixby, in this county, in 1727, aged 71
years ; and likewise to the memoiy of her two daughters. On the top is an
urn in white marble ; and on the right side of an inscription is a branch of
laurel, interwoyen with cypress ; whilst on the left are cypress and palms.
There is a fine marble monument to Archbishop Sterne, who died in 1683,
aged 87, beneath the east window of the north aisle of the choir. Upon the
pedestal is a mitred effigy reclining ; over the figure is an architraye, frieze
and cornice adorned with drapery and festoons, and surmounted by a semi-
circular pediment and coat of arms. Nearly adjoining is a neat tablet to IL
Sterne, Esq,, of Elrington, who died in 1791, aged 61.
A square compartment, with small Corinthian columns, in the north aisle,
contains an inscription to the memory of lAond Ingram, infant son of Arthur
Ingrant, Knt.
Here are neat oval compartments inscribed to the memoiy of Mrs. Penelope
Gibson, and Mrs. Johannah Gibson, both of Welboume, in this county. The
former died in 1716, and the latter in 177^. There is likewise in this lo-
cality a small marble tablet to Charles Layton, Esq., who died in 1676.
Samuel Breary, D. D., Prebendary of Strensall, and Rector of Middletoa
and South Dalton, has a neat monument of grey marble, surmounted by a
pediment, erected here to his memoiy. He died in 1736, aged 66.
Mrs. Mary PuUeyn's is a pyramidal monument, surmounted with an ele-
gant urn, on the pedestal of which are placed the arms, decorated on each
side with cypress. She died in 1786, aged 82.
A neat modem monument against the wall is inscribed to the Bsv. Sawut^
Terrick, Rector of Wheldrake. He died in 1719, in the 6l8t year of his age.
In this aisle is the splendid monument, erected by a general subscription
in the county of York, as a tribute of public love and esteem for the memory
of the respected statesman. Sir George SaviUe, Bart, It is a beautifiil white
marble statue, placed on an elegant enriched marble pedestal, six feet high,
with scrolls at the angles, and on the frieze of which are introduced the em-
blems of Wisdom, Fortitude, and Eternity. Sir George is represented leaning
upon a pillar, holding in his right hand a scroll, on which is written, *' The
Petition of the Freeholders of the County of York." The whole height of
the monument is sixteen feet, and on the front of the pedestal is an inscrip-
tion commemorative of his public and private virtues. Sir Qeoige repre-
HISTORT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORS. % 453
sented this county in five successive Parliaments, and departed this life on
the 0 th of January, 1784, in the 58th year of his age.
There is a white marhle monument against the wall, to the memory of the
Bev. John RichardMn, Canon Besidentiary of this church, who died in 1735.
The neat statuary marble monument to John DeaUry, M, D,, who died in
1773, aged 65, consists of a figure of Health in alto relievo^ with her usual
insignia, bending over an urn, and dropping a chaplet.
Sir Thomas Davenport's is a highly finished pyramidal monument Sir
Thomas was one of his Migesty's Sergeants-at-Law ; and having opened the
commission of Assize in York, on Saturday, March 11th, 1786, and attended
the Minster on the following day, he was seized with a fever, and died on the
Soth, aged 59.
The Hon. Mrs, Langley's monument, which is of pointed architecture, is
exceedingly beautiful. The upper part is a canopy, composed of several
arches, with numerous pinnacles, &c. This lady, who was the daughter of
Henry, Lord Middleton, and relict of K Langley, Esq., of Wykeham Abbey,
died in 1834, aged 65.
The neat marble monument to Admiral Medley has a fine bust, with arms,
curious devices of naval instnmients, ships, <S:c. The Admiral was bom at
Ghmston Garth, became Vice-Admiral of the Blue, and Commander-in-Chief
in the Mediterranean, and died at Savona in 1747.
There is a neat plain monument against the wall, to the memory of WiUiam
Pearson, L,L.D., Chancellor of the diocese of York, who died in 1715, aged
63 ; and beneath is a small monument to Mrs. Eaynes, who died in 1689.
The monument to Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, Privy Councillor to
Charles II., is a marble structure, composed of two pilasters, and a circular
pediment, adorned with a bust of the Earl, several urns, cherubs, coats of
arms, &c. On one column is an inscription to the memory of the deceased
nobleman, who died in 1684, aged 56 ; and on another column of the same
monument is an inscription to the memory of Sir John Fenwicke, Bart,, of
Fenwicke Castle, Northumberland, who died in 1696, aged 52, and was
buried in London. In the centre of the monument is an inscription to Lady
Mary Fenwicke, daughter of the above-named Earl, and relict of the said Sir
John Feniricke, who died in 1780, aged 50.
Sir WUUam Ingram's is an antique monument, decorated with figures of
himself and his wife, ooats of arms, &c. He was a doctor of laws, a master
in chancery, and sole deputy commissary of the prerogative court of York,
and was knighted by King James. He died in 1625.
There is a small monument, decorated with coats of arms, containing an
454 « HISTOBT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TOBK.
inscriptioii to Mrs. AnnaheUa WUkham, wife of Heniy Wickham, D.D.,
Archdeacon of York. She died in 1625.
Dr. Swinburne's monument, which is partly modem, is decorated with coats
of arms, small figures, and angels, and a large figure kneeling under an arch.
There is a short inscription, hut no date.
Against the wall is a variegated marhle monument, with a white oval
centre, inscribed to Captain Pelsant Beeves, of Aborfield, Berks., who fell in
battle at Toulon, on the dOth of November, 1798, in the d9th year of his age.
Adjoining the preceding is a handsome white marble monument to the
memory of the Rev, Rd. Thompson, Prebendary of York, and Hector of Kirk-
Deighton, who died in 1795 ; also to the memory of Anne his wife, who
died in 1791. It is supported by two flat pillars, one of which is crowned
with an urn, and the other with a representation of books piled up. A large
urn is placed on the top, and the whole is ornamented with emblematic devices.
The handsome monument of Corinthian architecture, erected to Sir Henry
BeUasis, is decorated with coats of arms, and three small figures in the atti-
tude of prayer. In the upper part, beneath arches, arc figures of the knight
and his lady ; the latter was a daughter of the famous Sir Thomas Fairfax.
A small plain tablet against the wall is inscribed to John Farr Abbot, Esq.,
of London, who died at York in 1794, aged 38 years. Beneath this is a
small tablet to Elizabeth ChaUenor, who died in 1798, aged 53.
Over the grave of Richard Wharton, Esq,, of Carlton, in this coimty, is a
very neat white marble monument on a black marble ground. On the top
is an elegant sarcophagus with the family arms in front. Mr. Wharton died
in 1794, aged 64 years.
The monument of Archbishop Savage, on the opposite side of the aisle, was
erected about a.d. 1500, and restored in 1818. It may be regarded as one of
the latest examples of the elegant English style, which, towards the end of
the 10th century, was corrupted and debased by the intermixture of Grecian
and Roman architecture. On an altar tomb lies the effigy of the prelate,
arrayed in fuU pontificals ; and above is a pointed arch in panels.
Near this tomb are two very large stone coffins, found some years ago
without Bootham Bar ; and near them are placed two stone effigies, removed
from another part of the churchy-one of them, which is attired in chain
armour, with a shield, &c,, is supposed to represent one of the family of
Mauley ; and the other, we are told by Allen, was formerly supposed to be
Roman, but has lately been considered as a Saxon layman of high rank.
Here are also two very large ancient triangular chests, adorned with curious
iron scroll work. These formerly held the copes and other splendid vest-
ments of the Cathedral dignitaries.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORS. * 466
In this aisle, near the entrance from the transepti are two old monuments,
the brass inscriptions of which are gone. One is supposed to be that of
Bryan Higden, Dean of York in 1639, and the other is unknown.
Against the wall on the opposite side, near the western end of this aisle,
is the handsome monument of Prince William de Hatfield,* second son of
King Edward III., who died in 1344, at the early age of 8 years. Under a
beautiful canopy the royal youth is represented in alabaster, habited in a
doublet with long sleeves, a mantle, plain hose, and shoes, richly ornamented.
The head of the Prince was formerly supported by two angels, now destroyed,
and his feet rest against a lion cottchant, A large quantity of wax tapers
appear to have been burnt round the tomb soon after the Prince's burial, as
in the Wardrobe Book of Edward HI. we find an entiy of a sum of money
paid for '* 103 lbs. of wax burnt around the Prince's corpse, at Hatfield,
Pomfret, and York, where he was buried."
Of many of those monuments, especially the most sumptuous of them, Mr.
Britton says, " Notwithstanding the labour and expense profusely lavished in
erecting them, they display examples of every fault which should be avoided
in monumental sculpture and architecture."
Chapter House. Exterior. — This magnificent structure — the most ele-
gant one of the kind in England, or perhaps in the world — is situated on the
north side of the Cathedral, and is approached by a vestibule, which branches
ofif from the north transept of the latter edifice. There is some difficulty in
ascertaining the date of its erection, as the records of the church afford no
account thereof. Stubbs, who is veiy particular in the memoirs of the rest
of the buildings, entirely omits this. Some ascribe it to the time of Arch-
bishop de Grey, the style of architecture according with the south transept,
commenced by that prelate in 1220; while others attribute it to a later
period, about 1300, which would make it correspond with the time of the
erection of the nave. Good authorities fix the date of its erection during the
reign of Edward I. Mr. Cooke says " If we may be allowed to guess at the
founder, that eminent prelate (Walter de Grey) stands the fairest of any in
the succession for it. The pillars which surround the dome," he continues,
are of the same kind of marble as those which support his tomb. But what
* This Prince was bom at Hatfield, near Doncaster, whence he took his surname.
Qaeen Philippa, his mother, on the occasion of his birth, gave five marks per annum to
the neighbouring Abbey of Boohe, and five nobles to the monks there. When the Prince
died these snms were transferred to the church of York, where he was buried, and to
the present time they are paid by the Bean and Chapter out of the impropriation of the
Bectory of Hatfield, as appears by the rolls.
456 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
seems to pat the matter oat of dispute is the pictare of an Archbishop,
betwixt those of a King and Queen, over the entrance, which, by having a
serpent under his feet, into the mouth of which his crozier enters, exactly cor-
responds with the like representation of Walter de Grey on his monument"*
Mr. Brown, in his valuable work on the history of York Cathedral, says
that '* from a comparison of separate parts and ornaments of the Chapter
House, with similar parts and ornaments in other portions of the church, he
iQ induced to imagine that the Chapter House and its vestibule were de-
signed about the year 1280; and as King Edward I. and his Queen
Eleanor were in York, in the year 1384, assisting at the ceremony of the
relics of St. William, it is highly probable that the foundation stone was then
laid. But it is also probable that the subsequent progress of the erection of
the nave, which was begun iu the year 1291, the labour required by the rich
and delicate work of the canned portions of the Chapter House, and the dis-
quietude of the time, retarded the progress of the building, so that it may
not have been completed till about the year 1340.'*
The Vestiinde of the edifice is very interesting in its architecture and
sculpture. Its plan is in the form of a right angle, the first portion being
44 feet long, and the second 46^ feet. The Chapter House itself is a
regular octagon, wit^ a projectii^ buttress attached to every angle. The
architecture of the whole structure is Pointed, and is a veiy noble specimen
of that style.
Interior. — ^The entrance to the vestibule is situated in the eastern aisle of
the north transept, and is of more modem woikmanship than the transept
It is not unlike the great western entrance to the Cathedral, and consists of
two arches filled in with richly paneUed doorways, on the points of which is
a circle filled with traceiy, and the whole is comprehended in an acute pedi-
mental canopy. The two doors are of beautiful Gothic open wood woric, and
made of English oak. The interior of the vestibule is veiy beautiful, the
sides being apparently all windows, and the walls below are richly adorned.
The ceiling is of stone, and is richly groined. At the other end of this
splendid vestibule is the entrance to the Chapter House, which greatly re-
sembles the first doorway, but is of a richer character. It consists of two
pointed arches, each enclosing in the head three sweeps, which portion is
• Ck)oke'8 Topographical Description of Yorkshire. Those supposed pictures of Arefa-
bishop de Grey and Henry HI. and his Queen, formerly adorned the blank side of the
octagon, immediately over the entrance to the Chapter House, but this, with all the re-
mains of the original painting and gilding in the edifice, has been removed, and the
stone restored to its natural colour.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 457
glazed, the lower part being occupied by oak doorways almost covered with rich
scroll work in iron. The upper part of the octangular pier, which divides these
arches, is pierced with a canopied niche, on the pedestal of which is a statue
of the Blessed Virgin, with her Divine Son in her arms, trampling on the
serpent. The image, with the drapeiy, is somewhat elegant, and has been
all richly gilt, but, as Mr. Cooke expresses it, " it bears a mark of those
times which made even stone statues feel their malice " — ^it is defaced. Upon
the points of these arches is a circle enriched with a quatrefoil, and the whole
is comprehended in one large pointed arch richly moulded, and springing
from small columns attached to the jambs. The interior of this magnificent
structure produces a veiy solemn and impressive effect. It is 63 feet in
diameter, and 67 feet 10 inches high, and this vast space is not interrupted
by a single pillar, the roof being whoUy supported by a single pin, geometri-
cally placed in the centre. The richly groined ceiling of oak was formerly
painted and gilded with representations of saints and sacred subjects, all of
which were tastelessly obliterated about the year 1760. The blank space
over the entrance was also decorated with paintings of Saints, Kings, Bishops,
&c. The thirteen niches over the door were formerly filled with statues of
Our Saviour, the Blessed Virgin (in the centre), and the Twelve Apostles.
Tradition says that these images were of solid silver, double gilt, the Apostles
being about a foot high, and the central figure twice the height. ''It is
generally believed," writes Allen, " that Henry Vm. stole them from the
Cathedral, or had them presented to him by Archbishop Holdgate, to prevent
him from committing the theft." The whole circumference below Uie win-
dows, except at the entrance, is occupied by forty-four canopied stone stalls
for the Canons who composed the Chapter of the Cathedral. The canopies
of these staUs are profusely decorated with grotesque sculptures, ending in
finials. The columns of the stalls are of Petworth marble.
Above the canopies, and on the sills of the windows, runs a gallery, which
is continued round the entire room, and through the solids of the piers ; the
carving of this passage is exquisite. The windows of the vestibule and
Chapter House are equally splendid, both in design and colouring, with those
of the Cathedral All are of ancient date, except the one opposite the en-
trance to the octagon, which is a restoration by Bamet, of York. The subjects
of the latter window are taken from the life of Christ; the glass in the upper
compartments of all the other windows exhibit the arms of founders and
benefactors, and the subjects of the lower divisions are chiefly saints, with
beautiful canopies above them, very richly and elaborately coloured. Pre-
vious to 1845 the whole interior had a very dilapidated appearance, when, by
3 N
458 HISTORY OF TH£ CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
means of the bequest of the kte Dr. Beckwith of £3,000., fur the parpose of
its repair, it underwent a thorough restoration. The roof was then redeco-
rated after the old style, hj Willement, of London ; the marble pillars of the
stalls were polished, and the stone work was cleaned ; the old pavement was
taken up and replaced by a costly and elaborately tessellated one by Minton,
of Stoke-upon-Trent ; and the aboTe-named window restored. The whole
Chapter House now forms a highly finished and chastely decorated specimen
of architectural ornament. We must not here omit an encomium bestowed
upon this edifice by a great traveller, in an old monkish Latin couplet, which
is inscribed in Saxon characters, near the entrance door: —
** tU l^sa <|l0s 4lama,
The learned Dr. Whitakcr was of opinion that this Chapter House, taken
as a whole, is the most perfect specimen now remaining of the Early Florid
Gothic style of architecture, introduced in the reign of Henry m. Li refer-
ence to York Cathedral, and particularly to the Chapter House, there is a
remarkable passage in the life of ^neus Silvius, afterwards Pope Pius II.
This distinguished individual, who passed through England on his way to
Scotland, as legate, about the year 1448, "went down to York, a great and
populous city, where there is a church, celebrated over all the world for its
workmanship and magnitude ; but especially for a very fine lightsome chapel,
whose shining walls of glass are held together between columns veiy slender
in the midst.*'
Gent has a story that Cromwell granted permission to a person to pull
down the Chapter House, and build a stable with the materials ; but the
statement is probably without foundation, though that arch-dismantler is said
to have violated the sanctity of other structures not less sacred.f
* This is the chief of Houses, as the Bose is the chief of Flowers.
f In the mad fimaticiAin which raged throughoat England in the time of the Com-
monwealth, Bloxom says, " Our sacred edifices were polluted and profkned in the most
iiTeverent and disgraceful manner; and with the exception of the destruction which
took place on the dissolution of the monastic establishments in the previous oentuxy,
more devastation was occasioned at this time by the party hostile to the established
ohurch, than had ever before been committed since the ravages of the Danish invaders."
And Bishop Nicholson, speaking of the Cathedral of Carlisle, writes, " our sufferings in
the days of rapine and rebellion equalled, or exceeded those of any other Cathedr^ in
England. • • • • Our Chapter House and Treasury had been turned into a
magazine for the garrison, and our veiy Charter sold to make tailors* measures."
HI9T0BT OF THE CATHEDBAL OF TORE.
450
)^igtaimtB, He., at l^t Cadt^ebral at Sit ^tkt, nt f^ath, in 1855.
(The figures denote the yalne of the inoomes; and the date, when each dignitaiy was
inducted.)
Abchbishop. — Bight Hon. and Most Bev. Thomas Masgrave, D.D. . . .^£10,030. . . . 1847.
Dean.— Very Bev. Sir William €k>ckbam, DJ>., Bart iei,250 1822.
Canons Bbsidxntiabt.
William Vemon-Hareoiirt, MJL North NewhM 1828.
Charles Hawkins, B.C.L. Btumhy 1880.
Charles Y. B. Johnstone, MJk t Wetwang 3844.
John Baillie, MJL WUtow 1864.
ChanceIiLor of the Chubch. — ^L. Vernon Haroourt, 'ilJL,, ,Laxighton. ,1927,
PRECENTOB. — ^Hon. and Bev. Edward Bice, D.D., Dean of Gloncester. , Driffield,, IS02,
Sub-Deanw — ^Hon. and Bev. Stephen W. Lawley, MJ^ 1852.
SuccENTOB. — ^Hon. and Bey. H. E. J. Howard, D.D., Dean of lichfield. .fibbM. .1822.
Abchoeacons.
York, — ^Venerable Stephen Creyke, M.A 1845.
Eoit'Riding, — Venerable Charles Maitland Long, M.A. 1854.
Cleveland. — ^Venerable Edward Chorton, MjI 1840.
Fbebendabies, Non-Besident, and theib Pbebends.
Wm. Preston, M. A., Bilton 1812
John Bull, D.D., Fenton 1826
(VACANT.) Fridaythorpe,
T. Hntton Croft, UJl, SHUingUm , .1881
H. C. Musgrave, D.D., GivenddU 1833
Hon. A. Duncombe, M.A., Bole 1841
John Sharpe, D.D., GrindaU 1841
Edwd. Churton, M.A., Knaresborough 1841
S. Creyke, MJL., South Newhald 1841
Bobert B. Cooke, M.A., ITUeBkelf .... 1842
Charles Hotham, MJL, Langtqft 18i2
William Gooch, M.A., StrensdU 1843
Samuel Coates, M.A., Ampleforth .... 1643
Chas. A. Thurlow, M.A., Huathwaite 1846
George Dixon, M.A., Bugthorpe .... 1840
George Trevor, M.A., Apethorpe . . . .1847
Oeorge Wray, M.A., Dunmngton .... 1847
E. J. Bandolph, M.A., Warthill 1847
H. W. Yeoman, M.A., Thockerington 1851
John Blackburn, M.A., EiecaU 1851
J. D. Jefferson, MjI., Osbaldunck, . . .1852
William Hey, M.A., Weighton 1854
A. B. Wrightson, M Ju, Botevant 1843
MiNOB Canons. (A Corporation under the title of "The Sub-Chanter and Vicars
Choral of York Cathedral.")
Sub-Chanteb. — Edward John Boines, B.D. . . 1838.
William H. Oldfleld, MJL 1846
Thomas Bayley, MjL 1851
B. E. Metcalfe, M.A. 1853
Arthur Howard Ashworth 1853
Abchbishop's Chaplains.
Joseph Bomily, M.A.
Hon. Thomas Cavendish, M.A.
Ven. Archdeacon Musgrave, D.D.
Thomas Bobinson, D.D.
John Croft, M JL
EzAMiNiNo Chaplain. — ^W. P. Musgrave, M.A.
Beoistbab. — ^Egerton Vemon-Haroourt, Esq. Deputy Bbgistrabs. — Messrs. Buckle
and Hudson.
Chaftbb CifBx and Begibtbab of the Deanebt of Yobs.— Charles A. Thiselton, Esq*
460 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
Secrbtabies to the Abchbishop. — John Border, Esq., London; and Chflrles A.
Thiaelton, Esq., York,
Obganist. — John Camidge.
Master of St. Peter's Gramxar School. — ^William Hey, MA.
Master of Archbishop Holoate's Gramkab School. — ^Robert Daniels, M.A.
The religious services performed in the Cathedral are — On Sundays * and
holidays, in the forenoon at half-past ten o'clock, when a sermon is preached;
and in the afternoon at four, when an anthem is sung. On the week-days
at ten o'clock in the forenoon, when an anthem ia sung, unless there he a
litany ; and in the afternoon at four o'clock, when an anthem is performed.
On Wednesdays and Fridays in Lent and Advent, and during the whole of
Holy Week, commonly called Passion Week, the choral service and singing
aire intermitted both morning and evening. During the winter months the
choir is lighted with gas for the evening service.
Cathedral PRECI^XTs, commonly called the Minster Yard or Close. —
This district, the circumference of which is about three quarters of a mile,
was in former times detached from the city by walls, and four pair of large
gates. One gate was placed at Petergate, facing Little Blake Street ; another
opened into Petergate, opposite Stonegate ; a third stood at the end of CoUcgc
Street, opposite the Bedem ; and a fourth in Uggleforth. And when in its
meridian glory, this small space contained three parish churches, and formed
a little ecclesiastical world of its own. The three churches were those of St.
Michael le Belfrey, St. Martin ad Valvas, and St. John Baptist-del-Pyke ;
but of these the first mentioned now only remains.
The See of York had formerly appended to it several palaces in different
parts of the country, but that at Bishopthorpe is now the only one that re-
mains. The finest of the old palaces stood on the north side of the Cathednl.
It was erected by Thomas, the first Xorman Arohbishop,t but its great hall
• By the dlfierent nations every day in the week is set apart for puhlic worship, viz. —
Sunday by the Christians* Monday by the Grecians, Tuesday by the Persians, Wed-
nesday by the Assyrians, Thnrsday by the Egyptians, Friday by the Turks, and
Saturday by the Jews.
The following is the comparative capacity for accommodation of the most celebrated
churches in Europe : — St. Peter's, Borne, 54,000 persons; Milan Cathedral, 37,000; St.
Paul's, Bome, 32,000; St Paul's, London, 26,000; St. Petronia, Bologna, 24,000; St.
Sophia's, Constantinople, 23,000; Florence Cathedral, 24,300; Antwerp Cathedral,
24,000; St. John Lateran, Bome, 22,900; Notre Dame, Paris, 21,000; Pisa Cathednl,
13,000; St. Stephen's, Vienna, 12,400; Cathedral of Vienna, 11,100; St. Peter's, Bo-
logna, 11,400; St. Dominic's, Bologna, 11,000; St. Mark's, Venice, 7000.
f Some authorities state that this palace was erected by Archbishop Boger, who was
consecrated in 1154.
HI8T0BT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 461
vas dismantled by Thomas Young, the first Protestant Archbishop, whose
cupidity was tempted to make this spoliation by the lead which covered its
roof. Since that period other parts of this Anglo-Saxon edifice have been
leased out from the See, and for a long time a part of its ancient site was a
receptacle for a mass of rubbish and filth. The site of the mansion is now
converted into the Deanery gardens. During the alterations consequent on
the change to its present state, part of the cloisters of the old palace were
discovered, forming, when found, the wall of a stable ; and from the style of
architecture, it is evident that this is the work of the early part of the Idth
century. It consists of seven semicircular arches, with plain mouldings
springing firom three columns, with square capitals. A similar column in
the centre of each division divides them into two trefoil-headed niches. This
interesting and picturesque fragment is now placed near the centre of the
north side of the Minster Close, and from it an excellent view of the Cathe-
dral and Chapter House may be obtained.
The Minster Yard was formerly choked up with mean buildings,* but in
1835 an Act was passed enabling the Dean and Chapter to take steps towards
their removal, and to enlarge and improve the ground surrounding the Cathe-
dral The old houses soon began to give away, and in a few years fine walks
and shrubberies, and beautiful buildings appeared in their stead. The road
on the south side of the Minster to the east end was formed in 1839. It
formerly ran close to the walls of that church, and houses were built as near
upon it as the traffic of the street would permit. The iron palisades which
runs round the west end, and along the south side and transept, were also
erected when the new road was made. At the same time the Hall of Pleas,
for the Liberty of St. Peter, which stood near the west end, was taken away,
and a number of houses, extending from the church of St. Michael le Belfrey
<to the top of Little Blake Street, were pulled down. These great changes in
the general appearance of the Minster Close are principally due to the taste
of the present Dean, Dr. Cockbum.
Minuter Library, — ^The Chapel of the above mentioned Archiepiscopal
Palace is now used as the library of the Cathedral. In stands on the north
side of the Minster Close, and is an interesting specimen of the Earliest
Pointed style of architecture. For many years this chapel was in a very di-
* There were at this tune no leas than three public houses in the Cathedral Close, called
the Minster Coffee Home; the Hole in the WaU; and the Sycamore Tree. The first
mentioned stood opposite the west front of the Cathedral ; the second a little Airther
northward; and the latter at the east end of the ohorch near the old Besidentiary.
462 HISTOBT OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORS.
lapidated state, but in 1808 it was restored, under the judicious direction of
the Dean and Chapter, and the librarir, which till then had been kept in a
small building attached to the Minster, was removed to it It stands on a
line with the buildings of the new Deanery, and is a great ornament to the
Minster precincts. Its west front is divided into two stories by a string
course; the lower has a doorway, consisting of a pointed arch springing from
two dwarf columns, with circular capitals simply ornamented with a flower
moulding. In the second story is a lancet-headed window of five lights, each
divided by a capital similar to those in the lower story; the whole are
bounded by a semicircular arch, which rises on each side of the window.
The angles of the building are guarded by buttresses, with angular caps, and
the roof rakes to a point with the small flower moulding, common to works
of the period. The south side of the building is made into four divisions by
buttresses ; and in the upper story are pointed arched windows. This side
of the edifice is finished by a string course and plain parapet; and the north
side is built against The ground floor is now used as a lumber room, but
the upper apartment, which is approached by a flight of stone steps from an
adjoining building, is neatly fitted up as the library. The windows on the
south side are filled with ground glass, and the one in the west end is filled
with beautiful stained glass, representing the armorial bearings of the mem-
bers of the church, at the period of its erection ; in the centre of which is a
shield bearing the arms of the Duke of Clarence, who visited the Cathedral
on the 29th of September, 1806. The date of this building is about the
same period as the relic of the episcopal palace above mentioned. Acyoining
the library on the north side is a small ancient edifice of two stones, the
lower containing a doorway, with three narrow windows, and the upper, three
windows of two lights each, made by a dwarf column in the centre. The
whole is finished by a plain parapet. This building evidently formed a cor-
ridor to the ancient chapel, as the door of entrance to the upper room (formerly
the part used for divine service) is in the upper story of it ; and this door,
which is very handsome, seems to be of the same age as the building.
It has already been observed that the Minster Library was originally
founded by Archbishop Egbert, in the 8th century, and extensive additions
were afterwards made to it by his successor Archbishop Albert. So choice
was the collection in this library, that William, the librarian of Malmsbuiy,
calls it the " noblest repository and cabinet of arts and sciences then in the
whole world ; " and the celebrated Alcuin, the preceptor of the Emperor
Charles the Great, at his return into Britain, wrote his royal pupil a letter.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 466
iu which tlie highest encomiums are bestowed on this library.* (See page
313.) But great was the loss of the learned world, when in 1069, the
library, along with the building which Archbishop Albert had erected for it,
was destroyed by fire. In the reign of William I., Archbishop Thomas
founded another library, which was esteemed a valuable one, but which un-
fortunately shared the same fate with the former one, by the calamitous fire
which broke out in the year 1137. Leland laments the loss of the library of
York Minster, when he was sent by Henry YHI. with a commission to search
eveiy library in the kingdom. " There is now scarce one book left in the
library of St. Peter," says that learned antiquary, " which Flaccus Albinus,
otherwise called Alcuinus, has so often and so greatly extolled for its great
number of books, as weU Latin as Greek ; for the barbarity of the Danes
and the ravaging of William Nothus have exhausted this treasure, as weU as
many others." In the early part of the 17th century the library was founded
for the third time, by Mrs. Matthews, relict of the Archbishop of that name,
who presented to the church her husband's private collection of books,
amounting to upwards of 3,000 volumes.!
The library has since been augmented at different times, and amongst the
chief contributors was Dean Finch, who died in 1738, and bequeathed the
Fadera AngUcana in seventeen tomes. The Bev. Marmaduke FothergiU, the
non-juring Hector of Skipwith, left a small but select collection of books to his
native city, on condition that a room was built for its reception ; and in the
meantime he directed that the collection should be placed in the library of the
Dean and Chapter. No room having been built, the books have been incor-
porated with the Minster Library.^ To the above have been added several
* Alcnin himself was the first Hbrarian of the Minster, the care of the collection
having been committed to him by ArchhiBhop Egbert ; and in his time students came
from a&r to avail themselves of its treasures. Alcnin has snng its praises in a Latin
poem reconnting iter numerous volumes. For a ftirther account of the libraiy of this
period, see Sharon Turner's History of Uie Anglo-Saxons, and Alcuini Opera, tom. i.
f Archbishop Matthews disinherited his son, Sir Toby Matthews, and this was pro-
bably the reason that the mother bestowed her husband's books on the church.
X The learned Marmaduke FothergiU was bom in Percy*8 Intit in Walmgate, York,
the ancient town residence of the Earl of Northumberland, in 1652, and was the eldest
son of an opulent citizen, who had acquired a fortune 1^ trade. He was educated at
Cambridge, and possessed the living of Skipwith, in this county ; but the Bevolution
altered his views respecting the church, and being determined never more to take any
oath of allegiance, he retired from it, and lived on the income of his paternal estate. He
was a great friend and admirer of literary characters; hence he often visited the Uni-
versity ; and though he performed all the exercises required for the degree of DJ>., he
466 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
laie purchases, gifts, and bequests, which form tx)gether a valuable libraiy (con-
dderiiig its size) of theological and general liieiBtare, of nearly 8,000 Tolumes
and manuscripts ; and amongst the most rare and valuable works which it
contains, are a beautiful copy of the second edition of Erasmus* New Testa-
ment, in Greek and Latin, Q vols., folio, printed on vellum, bj Frob^us, at
Basle ; a MS. copy of Wickli£fe*s New Testament, on vellum, supposed to
have belonged to Queen Elizabeth ; three MS. copies of the Vulgate, on
vellum, of the date of Henry in. or Edward I. ; a MS. copy of Braeton de
Legibus Anglia, on vellum ; a translation of Cicero de Senectute, printed by
Caxton in 1481 ; and several other books, printed by Caxton, Wynkin de
Worde, and Pynson, which are some of the best specimens of early English
typography extant. We may also class amongst the rare and valuable in
this library, Torre's inestimable manuscripts, containing collections from the
original records of all the ecclesiastical a£Ours relating to this church and
diocese; the original register of St. Maiy's Abbey, at York; and a TuUy de
Inventione, ad Herrenium, very perfect. The Eev. Edward John Raines,
B.D., is the present librarian. The library is open to the public on Tuesdays
and Thursdays, from twelve to one o'clock, when the librarian is in atten-
dance. Books are not lent out without an order from the Chapter. In the
library are portraits of Archbishop Matthews and the Rev. M. FothergiU ; and
a curious old print of the funeral procession of the great Duke of Marlborough,
the hero of Blenheim, as it passed from his house at St. James's, to West-
minster Abbey, on Thursday, August 0, 172d. In the ante room is a curious
specimen of Saxon sculpture, in a fine state of preservation. It was dis-
covered in the dungeon of an old building, since removed which, stood on the
north side of the Minster, and which from its appearance had evidently been
used for a prison. The stone is supposed to have been originally the base of
the archway over the entrance of the dungeon, and the sculpture represents
a man in the last agonies of death, surrounded by demons or evil spirits, who
are tormenting his body, and seizing the departing spirit as it issues from it
When we consider the great lustre which the name of Alcuin once shed
upon the ancient church and city of York — ^the place too of his nativity — ^it
appears not a little remarkable that his name is not connected in any way
whatever with an institution, a street, or a spot of ground, in any part of the
city or its neighbourhood. Can it be possible, the reader might well enquire,
would not even there comply with the goyemment oaths, and therefore oonld never as-
same the title. He had a hurge collection of manuscripts on the sulject of eodeaiastieal
antiquity, which he once designed to have published, and would have done so, had not
extreme modesty prevented him. He died at Westminster, September 7th, 1731, aged 79.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK. 465
that the name of him whose fame attracted stadents to York from oil parts
of England and the Continent; of him who sung the praises of " Old Ebor/'
and the saints of its diocese, in classic verse, aboTO a thousand years ago ; of
him to whose care was committed that priceless collection of rare and match-
less works, which rendered York the envy of the learned world ; of him who
was the preceptor of Charlemagne, and the most learned man of his age ;
can it be possible that this venerable name, of which the people of York
ought to be so proud, is not commemorated in connection with a literary
society or an institution, or even with a street or lane, in the city ? Yes, in-
deed, it is so! And shall it so continue? Good taste forbid it. That
portion of the Minster Yard, in which the Cathedral Library, the Deanery,
and the Eesidentiary, are situated, being now separated from the other parts
of the precincts of the Minster, by iron palisades, may be said to be without
any specific name ; and a gentleman of York, who entertains deep feelings
upon the above subject, asks us if Alcuin Place would not be an appropriate
appellation for it? We reply that it would, and we hope to see the excellent
and tasteful suggestion realized.
On the north side of the Cathedral, and near the before-mentioned Archie-
piscopal Palace, stood formerly the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, or of St.
Sepulchre, as it is usually called, which has a door still remaining, opening
into the north aisle of the nave. The foundation of this chapel being very
ancient and extraordinary, we shall present the reader with full particulars
of it, according to Dugdale : — " Boger, Archbishop of York, having built
against the great church a chapel, he dedicated it to the name of the Blessed
and Immaculate Virgin Mary and Holy Angels, for the celebration of divine
services, to the eternal honour of God, glory of his successors, and a re-
mission of his own sins. He ordained the same to be a perpetual habitation
for thirteen clerks of different orders, viz., four priests, four deacons, four
subdeacons, and one sacrist ; all these to be subservient to the will of the
Archbishop, especially the sacrist, who shall be constituted procurator of the
rents and revenues belonging to it, paying each of the priests ten marks per
ann,, for his own salary, besides the revenue of the rents that remain over,
and besides what will complete the sum of all the portions of the priests,
deacons, and subdeacons. Also he willed that the said sacrist of his own
cost expend ten shillings on Maunday, as well in veiles, wine, ale, vessels,
and water for washing the feet of the canons, and other poor clerks, to the
use of these poor clerks ; and also to contribute sitxteen shillings to the diet
of the said poor clerks, that in all things the firatemity and unity of the
church may be preserved.
8 o
46G HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF TORS.
" And for their necessary sustenation, he of his own bounty gave them the
churches of Everton, Sutton with Scroby chapel, Heyton, Berdesey, Otteley,
one medety ; and procured of the liberality of other faithful persons the church
of Calverley, ex dono WiUielmi de Scoty ; the church of Hoton, ex dono Wil-
lielmi Paganel ; the church of Harwood, ex dono Ayacie de Ruminilly ; the
church of Thorpe, ex dono Ade de Bruys et Ivette de Arches uxoris sua. To
this chapel also did belong the churches of Collingham, Clarebui^g, and Retr
ford. Roger provided also that the churches which were not of donation
should be free from synodals, and all other things due to the Archbishop, his
successors, and their officials ; and ordered that they should as quietly and
freely hold and ei^oy these churches, which are of his donation, as others
have before them. Lastly, he ordained, for the more diligent serving of the
chapel, that none of the said clerks should dwell out of the city, which if they
presumed to do, they should be displaced by the Archbishop, and another of
the same order be by him appointed."
The revenues of these churches having very much increased. Archbishop
Sewal appointed Vicars to be established in them, and made several rules for
the better government of the ministers, whom from thenceforth he caused to
be called Canons.
In the STth of Henry Yin. it was certified in the court of augmentations,
that the revenues of the Chapel of St. Sepulchre were of the yearly value of
£19^. 16s. 6d. The chapel was then suppressed, and its revenues seized by
the King. In the 4th of Elizabeth (1668) the tithes belonging to this chapd,
and the chapel itself, were sold to a person of the name of Webster. In
course of time the chapel was converted into a public house, which from an
opening at the end of a dungeon with which the chapel was provided, was
facetiously named " The Hole in the Wall." Having become ruinous, the
building was taken down in 1816, and on removing the materials the work-
men came to a subterraneous prison or dungeon, some feet below the surface
of the earth. The approach was by a flight of stone steps, at the bottom of
which were two massy oak entrance doors, one against the other, each 5 feet
7 inches high, by 2 feet 7 inches broad, and 5 inches thick. The vault was
32 feet 6 inches in length, 9 feet 4 inches broad, and about O^^ feet in height ;
the walls being 4 feet 10 inches thick. On one side were three sloping
windows guarded with iron, and attached to the walls were the remains of
several staples. This dungeon was probably used for immuring ecclesiastical
delinquents. In the following year was found in it the iiide piece of Saxon
sculpture already mentioned as being deposited in the ante-room of the
Minster Library.
HISTOKY OP THE CATUEDBAL OF YORK. 467
The Hall of Pleas, and prison for the Liberty of St, Peter, which stood
nearly oppoaite the west end of the Minster, was pulled down, as has already
been observed, during the alterations about seventeen years ago. As we have
also before remarked, there was a large arched gateway immediately facing
Litde Blake Street, which led into the Minster Yard ; and on the ground
between the east side of that gateway, and the church of St. Michael le
Belfrey, extended a row of low old-&6hioned houses. On the west side of
the same gateway, abtitting on the street, stood the HaU of Pleas, and what
was called the Peter Prison, The lower part of the building was used as the
prison and residence of the gaoler; and in the upper story, which was reached
by a flight of stone steps from the Minster Yard, was a court room where
causes in common law, arising within the jurisdiction of the Hberty of St.
Peter, were tried. The jurisdiction of this liberty was separate and exclusive,
and had its own magistrates, steward, clerk of the peace, bailiff, coroner, and
constables. Four general quarter sessions used to be held in the Hall of
Pleas, every year, " to enquire into all manner of felonies, poisonings, in-
chantments, sorceries, arts magic, trespasses, &c. ; " and a court was held
in the hall every three weeks, where pleas in actions of debt, trespass, re-
plevin, &c,, to any amount whatever, arising within the liberty, were held.
By virtue of an Act, 6 and 6 William IV., cap. 76, the Liberty of St. Peter
of York has been abolished for all civil purposes, although its ecclesiastical
jurisdiction continues the same. The liberty comprehends all those parts of
the city and county of York which belong to the Cathedral or Church of St.
Peter, viz. — ^in the city of York — the Minster Yard and Bedem. In the
East Biding — Faxfleet, North Newbald, and South Newbald, in Hunsley
Beacon division; Barmby on the Moor, in Wilton Beacon division, and
Dunnington, Heslington, and Langwith, in Ouse and Derwent Wapentake.
In the North Riding — Carleton and Husthwaite, in Birdforth Wapentake ;
Clifton, Haxby, Gate Hemsley, Helperby, Murton, Osbaldwick, Skelton,
StiUington, Strensall, and Warthill, in Bulmer Wapentake ; Brawby, Salton,
and Nawton, with Wambleton, in Ryedale Wapentake. In the West Biding
— ^Dringhouses, in the Ainsty ; Brotherton and Ulleskelf, in Barkston Ash
Wapentake; and Knaresborough in Claro Wapentake. Besides these d7
places and parts of places, there are within the liberty 97 detached parcels
scattered in most of the Wapentakes of the county. Amongst its privileges
the inhabitants and tenants of this liberty were exempt from the payment of
tolls throughout England, Ireland, and Wales.
The Deanery is a spacious, commodious, cut stone mansion, on the north
side of the Minster Yard, between the Chapter House and the Cathedral
4 Oh history of the cathedral of YORK.
Library, erected in 1827, from a design of Messrs. Piitchett & Sons, of York.
It is a pleasing architectural object, nearly sqaare, and is according to ihe
style of the Tudor period, The west and principal front consists of four
stories, the front being made into three divisions by buttresses and octagonal
turrets at the angles. In the first story are three windows, with arched
heads ; in the middle division of the second story is an oriel window, which
is continued in the third story; the intermediate space between the two
windows being filled with quatrefoil, panelling, roses, '<&c. The other divi-
sions contain a square headed window on each story. A continued band
with grotesque heads, roses, portcullis, &c., extends round the entire building,
and the top of the edifice is battlemented. The north side is similar to the
one just described, with the exception of having a noble poroh instead of the
oriel window ; and on the south side a low range of buildings, containing a
private passage to the Minster Library, connects it with the latter building.
The whole has a very chaste and elegant appearance.
The Old Deaneri/ House, which was first erected in 1090, stood on the
south east side of the Minster Yard, on the site now occupied by the School
of Design.
The Residentiary, or Canon s rosidence, is situated on the north west side
of the Minster Precincts. It was erected in 1825-6, and is similar in size
and form with the Deanery, but the style of architecture is later. The front
consists of throe stories. In the centre of the first is an arched doorway, and
in the centre of the second is a bow window. The third story has three
gables, and in each is a square headed window. The east front has in the
ground floor and in the upper story, square projecting windows of five lights
each, divided by buttresses ; and some square headed windows of two lights
each. The other sides are not visible from the Close, but are of similar
architecture. Attached to this building is a handsome garden, which,
together with the garden of the Deaner}^ is divided from the Close by a light
railing of iron, and tlie portion of the cloisters of the ancient palace before
noticed. The resident canons occupy the Residentiary alternately three
months each year.
The Old Residentiary is a largo gloomy looking house, opposite the soutli
east angle of the Minster.
The Wills, dc. Office for the province of York, is attached to the west side
of the south transept of the Cathedral, and is one of those extraneous
buildings which greatly disfigure that edifice. Previous to the year 1838,
the Will Office was in a small old building which stood at the east end of l^c
Belfry Cburoh, but in that year the present building was enlarged, and the
HISTORY OF THE GATHEBBAL OF TOBK. 469
documents were moTed thither. The office now consists of four rooms, one
of which is used for searching for and examining wills or administrations.
There is an Index kept of the names of the testators and intestates, to whose
representatives letters of probate or administration have been granted since
1731. There are, however, copies of wills in it as far back as 1389. The
fee for searching this book is one shilling. The average number of wiUs, &c.,
passing through the office in the course of a year, is about 1,600 wills, and
660 administrations. The records of the Prerogative and Exchequer Courts
of the diocese are also kept here. During the fires of 18S9 and 1840, the
wiUs were carefully removed under the protection of a detachment of soldiers.
They were afterwards safely replaced, and no damage was sustained on either
occasion. The building is now entirely fire proof.
The records belonging to the courts of the Dean and Chapter are pre-
served in part of the buildings called Archbishop de la Zouche*s Chapel.
St. WiUiam'a College — considerable remains of which stand in the opening
of College Street, right opposite the large east window of the Cathedral — ap-
pears by records to have been founded by King Henry VI. to the honour of
St William, Archbishop of York, " for the parsons and chantry priests of the
Cathedral to reside in ; whereas before they lived promiscuously in houses of
laymen and women, contrary to the honour and decency of the said church,
and their spiritual orders." The letters patent directed that this building
should be erected "in the Close of York." It does not appear that this grant
was put into execution ; probably the civil dissensions of the time prevented
it. But King Edward IV ., in the first year of his reign, granted other letters
patent of the same tenor, to George Neville, Bishop of Exeter, and his
brother Richard, Earl of Warwick, and their heirs, to found and sustain this
coU^e, without reciting any of the former grant, and to have the nomination
of the provost of it for ever. This patent, which is large and full, and con-
tains all the rules and statutes to be observed by the members of the college,
is dated at York, May lltb, 1461. The members of this college consisted
of a provost and twenty-three chantry priests. The archway forming the
entrance, which is a good piece of Perpendicular work, is very ancient, and
has above it, in a niche, a dOapidated statue of St. William, between his own
arms and those of the See ; and higher up arc carved wood figures of the
Virgin and Child, and St. Christopher. The gate to this edifice is very old,
and contains a vncket evidently coeval with the building. The structure
itself is chiefly Jacobean in style, forms a quadrangle, enclosing a small court
yard ; round which are the remains of many curious wooden figures. The
principal entrance to the interior from the court yard, is opposite the outer
470 HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL OF YORK.
entrance, and is by a large doorway, the ascent to which is by four stone
steps ; and opposite the door a staircase, about eight feet wide, leads to the
upper rooms. Several of the apartments are spacious and curious. The
college is now let off in residences for several poor families. In 164Q, during
the residence of Charles I. at York, the royal printing presses are said to
have been set up in one of the apartments of this college, and here were
printed several of the political and controversial pamphlets which created so
much sensation in that day. " From the royal printing office," says Drake,
" were issued paper bullets, soon to be changed into more fatal weapons."
The Bedem, — ^This is the name of a small street leading from Goodramgate
to St. Andrewgate, in which was formerly a College of Vicars Choral, be-
longing to the Cathedral. Though this locality was not within the Minster
Close, yet it is always classed with that district, on account of its connection.
From an inquisition taken in the 4th of Edward L (1276), the site of the
Bedem appears to have been given "to God, St. Peter, and the Vicars
serving God, in pure and perpetual alms," by one William de Lunam, Canon
of the Cathedral. There were originally thirty-six of those vicars choral, ac-
cording to the number of the prebendal stalls, each Canon having his own
peculiar vicar to attend and officiate for him ; receiving for th^ services the
annual sum of 40s. each. The duty of the vicars choral, besides attending
the daily service, was formerly to perform the offices for the dead in the dif-
ferent chapels and chantries of the Cathedral both day and night. It was
therefore convenient to have a place near it, in which to reside. The chan-
tries and obits, from which the vicars choral derived thdr support, being
dissolved, their number is now reduced to five. The whole college and site
of the Bedem was sold in the 3nd of Edward VI. to Thomas Goulding and
others, for £1,924. 10s. Id., but this sale was disannulled, and it was given
to the Dean and Chapter of the CathedraL
The Bedem Chapel, which is still standing, was founded in 1348, and
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Blessed Virgin, and St. Eatherine ; but it
is no longer used for the general services of the church, but is confined to
the baptism of children and churching of women ; though up to about four
years ago divine service was performed in it every Wednesday. The exterior
of the edifice is very plain. The side abutting on the street has a pointed
doorway, and three square-headed windows, with a plain vacant niche ; the
other side of the building has four square-headed windows ; and on the roof
is a small wooden bell turret. The interior still retains its ancient furniture,
though in a dilapidated state. The altar piece is curious; consisting of panel-
ling of pointed architecture in wood, with crockets, pinnacles, &c,; and
ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 471
there are some ancient wooden stalls, and an old octagonal stone font on a
circular pedestal.
The old Collegiate Hall, where the vicars usually dined in common, is now
converted into dwellings, and parts of the ancient outer walls of the edifice,
with the evident remains of Gothic windows, and other vestiges of former
days, may yet he traced on the south side of the huildings hehind the houses
that abut on the street a little beyond the chapel.
The Bedem clearly owes its name to the circumstance of its being the
residence of the vicars choral. Bede was formerly used for the verb to pray,
and Erne implies a solitary place or detached dwelling ; so that Bedem evi-
dently signifies a cloister set apart for one or more religious to dwell in.
The Bedem is the presumed site of a part of the Eoman imperial palace,
or of the baths connected with the palace. When the Bedem was in its
prosperity, there were gates to enclose the whole opening into Goodramgate ;
and a porter*s lodge stood on one side. Up to the year 186S the Bedem had
the appearance of a long narrow court or yard, having no outlet but at one
end — ^in Goodramgate — but recent improvements have formed it into a
street, which connects Goodramgate with St. Andrewgate.
In the vicissitudes of human events this once splendid seat of Roman
grandeur and imperial honour, and subsequently of ecclesiastical splendour,
is now the sad receptacle of poverty and wretchedness — ^the poorest of the
Irish emigrants being its chief inhabitants. During the progress of the im-
provements here in 1852, a number of coins were found concealed in an old
flower-pot and coffee-pot. They were principally of the reigns of Elizabeth,
James I., and Charles I. ^
%mittd ^eligbttij Matrntn, ^l
St. Leonard's Hospitai.. — This Hospital, which was the most ancient
religious institution in York, and one of the noblest foundations of the kind
in Britain, was founded by the Anglo-Saxon King, Athelstan, in a.d. 936,
under the following circumstances: — ^In an expedition to Scotland, that
monarch visited three religious places — Beverley, Durham, and York — ^where
he solicited the benefit of their devout prayers on his behalf, promising that
if he succeeded weU therein he would abundantly recompense them for the
same. Having obtained a decisive victory over Constantine, the Scottish
King, Athelstan returned to York, where he offered his hearty thanks to God
472 ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF TORK.
in the Cathedral. He there obseryed certain religions men then called
Coledei, who relieved many poor people out of their slender means; and to
enable these people better to snstain the poor, as well as to fulfil his royal
promise, he granted to God, St. Peter, and the said Coledei, and their suc-
cessors for ever, certain emoluments accruing ta the Grown in the bishopric
of York. This grant consisted of *' one thrave of com out of eveiy carucate
of land, or every plough going, within the bishopric of York, and which to
this day is called Peter com." This com rent, which was then given to the
Coledei, had been originally granted to the Crown for the encouragement of
persons who employed themselves in destroying the wolves, which were then
so numerous that they overran the country and devoured the cattle of the
villages. Possessed of this income, and a piece of waste ground which also the
King gave them, the Coledei founded for themselves an Hospital in the city of
York. William the Conqueror, and his successor William Eufus, confirmed
and enlarged the endowment. The latter monarch removed the site of the
Hospital to the place where the ruins now stand. He likewise built them a
small church, which was dedicated, as the Hospital had been, to St. Peter.
Henry I granted to them the close extending from their house to the river
Ouse ; confirmed to the Hospital certain other lands ; freed them from geids
and customs ; and granted to them the liberties of sac, soc, tol, theme, and
infangtheof. And as a more particular mark of his favour, Heniy also took
to himself the name of a brother and warden of this hospital ; " Frater enim
et custos ejusdem domus Dei sum." When the Hospital was burnt down in
1187, King Stephen rebuilt it in a more magnificent manner, and caused it
to be dedicated to God in honour of St. Leonard, and it was ever after called
HospUalis 8. LeonardL This King caused Nigel, Mayor of York, to deliver
up a certain place near the west walls of the city, to receive the poor and
lame ; and he confirmed the thraves, which then were " all the oats which
had been used to be gathered betwixt the river of Trent and Scotland, for
finding the King^s hounds, which was twenty fair sheaves of com of each
plow-land by the year, and appointed the Dean and Canons of the Cathedral
church to gather them for the reUef of the said Hospital."
The privileges and possessions of this Hospital were confirmed by Henry
n., King John, and several succeeding monarchs, and much enlarged by the
munificence and piety of several noblemen and others. King John ratified
its possessions by charter, and also granted to the brethren timber for their
buildings, wood for fuel, and pasturage for their catde, through his whole
forest of Yorkshire. In the d7ih of Edward L (1299) that monarch granted
to the " Master and Brethren of St. Leonard's Hospital," liberty to take down
ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 478
tke wbU of the said Hospital, which extended from Blake Street to Bootham
Bar, and to set up a new wall for enlarging the coart of it. In the dnd of
Henry VI. (1424) all the confirmations, privil^es, charters, ^c. of this Hos-
pital-^-and they were unusually numerous — were sanctioned by Act of Par-
liament. Though this Hospital was in the collation of the Dean and Chapter
of York, they were not sulxject to any visitor but the King or his deputies.
The number of its inmates, according to Drake, was 90 ; viz. — ^a master or
warden, 18 brethren, 4 secular priests, 8 sisters, 80 choristers, 2 school-
masters, 36 headmen, and 6 servitors. Thomas Magnus was the Master at
the dissolution, when the revenues were valued at JS862. lis. l^d., equal, it
is probable, to nearly £2,000. at the present time. The advowson was
granted by the King, in 1554, to Sir Arthur Darcy and Sir Thomas Clifford,
knights, and John Bolles, gent, their executors and assigns. The coucher
book belonging to the Hospital has been deposited in the Cottonian library.
The site of the house has passed through numerous hands. It was early
devoted by the Archbishops of York to the erection of their mint, and from
this circumstance the area had long been called the Mint Yard. After
passing through various hands, the whole property devolved to Geoi*ge, Lord
Saville, Viscount Halifax ; and being extra-parochial, an attempt was made
in 1687 to establish a mart there, which was prevented by the city by a writ
of ad quod damnum. Fearful that the attempt to establish a mart might be
renewed, the Corporation purchased the whole premises^ buildings, and privi-
leges, connected therewith, in 1675, for the sum of £800. ; and the premises
were divided and let out on lease. Since then the Theatre, the handsome
crescent called St. Leonard's Place, and several commodious houses, stables,
&c., have been erected.
The chief existing remains of this interesting establishment stand imme-
diately within the entrance to the gardens of the Yorkshire Philosophical
Society's Museum. They consist of what in all probability were the ambu-
latory and chapel of the infirmary of the Hospital, and are commonly called
the Cloisien of 8t, Leoruard's Hospital. The portion of this cloister standing
is in a pretty perfect state, and is well deserving the notice of the antiquarian.
The style of architecture is Early Norman, and it is the finest specimen of
that fJByshion of building in the city. It now consists of three aisles, divided
by octagonal pillars, with a small abacus or capital, from which spring the
ribs that support the groined roof. Against the wall, at the north end of the
cloister, is a large but ancient stone statue, supposed to represent St. Leo-
nard. The figure is seated in a chair, having dmpery over its shoulders, and
the head exhibiting the tonsure of a monk. It was formerly placed over the
3 p
474 AKCIEMT REUOIOUS HOU8H8 OF YORK.
old gateway of the Hospital. A great part of the old walls of die Ho^ital
were taken down in March, 1782, for the purpose of admitting carriages to
the theatre in the Mint Yard ; and again in 1832, when St. Leonard's Place
was formed. When these alterations were made, several beautiM M arches
belonging to the Hospital were exhibited to view, and were consequentlj
doomed to give place to the modem improToments.
In his remarks on the remains of St. Leonard's Hospital, Mr. WeUbelored
says, " the covered cloister, or ambulatory, appears to have consisted of five
or perhaps six aisles, in two of which was a large fire-place ; for the benefit,
no doubt, of the infirm and sickly, for whose use the ambulatory was de-
signed. The exterior aisle, on the side towards the Multangular Tower, was
most probably enclosed by a wall. Above the ambulatory were the chambers
or wards of the infirmary, adjoining to which is the beautiful small chapel,
opening to the chamber, so that the sick persons who were confined to their
beds might have the comfort of witnessing the celebration of the divine
offices. The eastern end of the chapel indicates the period of its erection,
the style of the architecture being that of the early part of the 13th century.*
The ambulatory belongs to rather an earlier age. How access was obtained
to the chamber and the chapel does not clearly appear, there being no remains
of a staircase. Adjoining the ambulatory is the ancient entrance into the
Hospital from the river, oh the bank of which was a staith, or wharf, appro-
priated to the Hospital, called St Leonard's Landing ; and adjoining to this
entrance, on the site of the present street, there was another aisle, the use of
which is not known. The staircase leading to the infirmary and the chapel,
of which there are no traces remaining, may have been at the northern end
of it. Of the use to which the room under the chapel, unconnected with
any other, was applied, no satis£Eu;tory account can be given.'*f At the
northern end of the cloisters are the remains of two rows of pillars, ranged
parallel to the Roman wall, which here runs from the cloisters to the Mul-
tangular Tower. Mr. Wellbeloved cannot give a satisfactory account of this
portion of the ruin, but he thinks it highly probable that there are the re-
mains of corresponding pillars, by which an aisle had been formed in the
acyacent ground, which is not in the possession of the Philosophical Society.
For ages were the beautiful ruins of this religious establishment completely
• This chapel appears to have been solely for the accommodation of the mck, and it
is very probable that there also was a church belonging to the hospital. An arch found
in the excavations for St Leonard's Place, and which is now deposited in the Mnseoskt
is sapposed, by the Rev. Curator of Antiqaities, to have belonged to that church.
f Descriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Grounds of the Museum.
AMCnSNT BBUOIOUS HOU8KS OF YORK. 475
euTeloped in old buildings, and no idea had been entertained of their ex-
istence. When Allen wrote, in 1830, the cloisters were occupied as wine
▼aults ; they now form one of the most interesting relics in the citj, of
times that were ; and affords another evidence of the great anxiety of the
Philoec^hical Society to preserve the antiquities of this ancient city, for
it was they that cleared these cloisters from the buildings with which they
were surrounded, and by annexing them to their already spacious grounds,
protected them from furUier ii^uiy.
St. Mabt*s Abbet.^ — ^Thi% once noble and magnificent Abbey, which for
nearly five centuries maintained so high a rank among the religious estab-
lishments of this country, was situated on the north side of the city, on a
fine spot of ground nearly square, which sloped gently from without Bootham
Bar to the river Ouse. Its early histoiy is inyolved in much obscurity, and
it is difficult to reconcile the scattered notices of it found in some of the
oldest and most respectable of our ecclesiastical historians, with the inter-
esting narratiTe of its origin by the first Abbot, Stephen de Whitby, happily
preserved by one of his successors, Simon de Warwick. According to Ingul-
phus there was a monasteiy here before the Conquest, founded by Siward, a
noble Dane and Earl of Northumberland, and in which he was interred in
1056 ; and Hoveden, noticing the burial of Siward a year earlier, calls the
monastery Q«lmanho. Ingulphus, in another page of his histoiy, speaking
of the ** comprofessi " who came from other monasteries for the hospitalities
of Croyland, in 1076, names six monks of " S. Marie Eboracum." Bishop
Tanner observes that it no where else appears that there were then any
religious of that denomination in the city; and Burton makes a similar
assertion ; but notwithstanding the opinion of these two'* learned authori-
tiesy it seems certain that the Abbey was founded and built in the reign
of the Conqueror, and his successor William Rufus, on a site " which some
religious had before occupied." The Rev. C. Wellbeloved, of York, in an
interesting account of the Abbey, addressed to the Society of Antiquarians
of London,* says, " The monastery of St Mary, and the monastery of Gal-
manho were the same ; the former appellation denoting the patron saint to
whom it was dedicated, the latter the place in which it was situated. And
further, the monastery of which Hoveden and Ingulphus write, and which
Elfwin restored, was undoubtedly the same as that which was founded anew
by William Rufus ; for Hoveden has not only told us of the restoration of an
Abbey at York, dedicated to St. Mary, by Elfmn, but he has preserved the
• Printed bj the Society, with nnmeroos views in the Vetata Monnmenta, voL r.
476 ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
names of the four first Abbota^Stephen, Richard, Ganfrid, and Severiiius;
during the goverument of the List of whom he himself flourished ; and these
were the Abbots who presided over the monasteiy which claims William 11.
as its most distinguished, if not its earliest bene&ctor. Lehmd enables us to
account for the appellation Galmanho ; for, speaking of the last establishment,
he describes it as being built without the walls of York, at or near the place
where the dirt of the city was deposited, and criminals executed. Now the
common instrument of execution, the gaUows, was in Saxon caUed ffal^ ;
and thence, as Lje haa shown, Gahnan and Gjdmanho were derived.'*'*'
Drake, in his Eboracum, says " there is great reason and authority for
supposing that there was a monastery standing at or near the site of this
Abbey in the time of the Danes and Saxcms ; that it was built by Siwaitl,
the valiant Earl of Northumbria. and that he was buried in it The monas-
tery was at that time dedicated to St. Olave^ the Danish King and martyr;
and, indeed, it retained that name even after William the Conqueror had re-
founded it, till, by William II., it was changed to that of 8t, Mary"
To sum up the several accounts of the origin of this Abbey, it seems very
probable that about the year 1050, Earl Siward, who was as famous f<Mr his
goodness and piety as he was for his valour, began to erect a monasteiy here;
but that he proceeded no further than the building of the church of the
establishment, which he dedicated to St. Olave, and in which he is said to
have been buried. But the monasteiy itself appears not to have been begun,
or if begun, not so far advanced at the death of Siward as to be occupied by
any religious persons.
*' The premature decease of the founder, and the state of anarchy and con-
fusion into which the province that he had governed, with almost regal
authority, immediately fell,'* says Mr. Wellbeloved, ** appear to have prervented
the completion of the work, and it remained in its unfinished condition till
the arrival of the Norman Conqueror. Six years after the Conquest three
zealous monks, Aldwinc, Elfwine, and Reinfrid, from the Abbey at Evesham,
came into the North with the view of reviving the monastic life there, almost
extinct through the long continued violence of the Danish invaders. Having
been veiy successful in their mission on the banks of the Tyne, Reinfrid
came southwards to Streaneshalh (IVhitby), where still remained the ruins
of a Saxon convent, founded by St. Hilda. Herp he was allowed by Eari
Perci, to whom this fee bolonfjed, to build a Priory (afterwards the Abbey of
Whitby), and was soon joined l)y sovpral who had devoted themselves to a
• Lye, Diet. Sax. in T«rh. GAlmiinho.
AMGIEMT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 477
monastic life. Among these was one named Stephen, to whom the govern-
ment of the Priory was committed."'!'
This Stephen was the first Abbot, as well as the historian of St. Mary's ;
and he appeal's to justify the assertion of Burton and Tanner, for he takes
no notice of any prior establishment, excepting the church of St. Olave.
From his narrative we learn that he, Stephen, had been Prior of the convent
of Whitby ; but that he and some of his monks having given some offence to
Earl Perci, were forcibly expelled from that place, and took refuge at Lasting-
ham, in the eastern moors, where a religious house had been established in
the Saxon times. From the latter place they were also driven by the same
powerM Baron. In this afflicting state their condition was commiserated
by Alan, Earl of Richmond and of Breitagne, who in 1078 gave them the
church of St. Olave, founded by Siward, near the city of York, and four acres
of land acjjoining, to build suitable offices upon. He also obtained for them
the Ucence and aid of the King to found a religious establishment, and to
complete what Siward had leflt unfinished.
Thomas, the Norman Archbishop, for some cause or other, conceived a
violent dislike towards this new monastic fraternity, and forthwith com-
menced a suit against Earl Alan for appropriating the four acres of land,
which he alleged were his property ; whereupon William the Conqueror, to
compose the difference, promised the Archbishop other lands in lieu of them,
and so the affair ceased for a time. This hostile relation between these two
branches of the church does not appear to have at all retarded the prosperity
of the new establishment, for in 1088 William II., being at York, visited the
monastery, " and seeing that the building was too strait and narrow, he pro-
jected a larger, and with his own hand first opened the ground for laying
the foundation of the church of the monastery."! An ancient parchment,
formerly preserved in St. Mary's Tower, dates the foundation in 1089, when
the dedication of the church was changed from St. Olave to St. Mary. The
monastery erected, the royal founder endowed it with several lands " free
from all legal exaction for ever;" Earl Alan having previously given the
monks the hamlet of Marygate, then called Earlsborough (doubtless from the
rank of its owner), upon the same conditions ; " and not long after our good
friend Alan dying," says the annalist, ** the King, for the sake of his soul,
• Desoriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Grounds of the Museum.
f " There is evidence in what remains of the entrance to the Chapter House, and in
many of the carved fragments that have been recently disinterred, that the buildings of
the monastery were not completed prior to the reign of Stephen ; perhaps not so early."
— J{a;. C. WeWfeUwed.
478 ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF TOBK.
gave us the towns of Clifton and Overton, which were of his demesne.** At
the foundation of William II., as has already heen obsenred, the monastery
received the title of the ** Abbey of St. Mary at York ; ** and in that mon-
arch*s charter, various lands are enumerated which had been bestowed upon
the monks by the Conqueror, his predecessor. From this time the monifi*
cence and piety of princes and nobles enriched the Abbey so that it soon
became opulent.
Archbishop Thomas, subsequent to the increased endowment of the monat-
tery, renewed his claim for the four acres of land ; whereupon Stephen, the
Abbot, appealed to the King in a full council of the nation, held at Gloucester,
and the suit was finally settled. The immunities and privil^es granted to
this Abbey by William and his successors, Kings of England, were very
great. By King WLlliam*s charter, the lands of the Abbey were exempt from
all regal exactions ; and in case the sheriff or his oflELcers had any comi^aint
against the tenants of St. Mai7*8, they were first to acquaint the Abbot
therewith, and at an appointed time to come to the gates of the Abbey, and
there receive justice and right ; and moreover, the " homines sancte Maris **
were exempt from attendance on juries, or at the county courts, as well as at
the meetings of the Ridings, Wapentakes, and Hundreds.
It is recorded that the Minster and Abbey were consumed by fire in the
reign of King Stephen, in 1137, when the greater part of the city was burnt
down ; but Mr. Wellbeloved, who has had good opportunities of judging, saja»
" if either of these buildings suffered from the fire at the time, the ii^ury, it
is probable, was of no great extent.**
According to Dugdale, Abbot Simon de Warwick undertook the erectioa of
a new and enlarged church in 1370. Sitting in his chair, with trowel in bis
hand, the whole convent standing about him, he laid the first stone, and
lived to see the work completed. The rebuilding of the other parts of the
Abbey doubtless followed, but there is no record of the works extant. Simxm
de Warwick is said also to have built the walls and towers surrounding the
close of the Abbey.
King Henry 11., by his charter, confirmed the privileges granted to the
Abbey by William 11., adding to them certain liberties and customs which
had before been peculiar to the churches of St Peter at York and St. John
of Beverley ; ordaining also that when the men of the county were summoned
to serve in the King*s army, the Abbot of this monastery should find a man
to carry the banner or standard of St. Mary, in the same manner as other
great churches sent their banners.
The immunities granted by the charters of William 11. and Henry U.
AKCISNT BSUOIOUS H0U8SS OF TOBX. 470
were confirmed by nearly every succeeding Sovereign to the time of Henry
Vin., and even that monarch, in the first year of his reign, by a large
charter, confirmed all the liberties of the convent. In consequence of the
extensive and extravagant powers and privileges which the Abbey possessed,
considerable animosity long existed between the citizens and the monks or their
tenants or dependants, and acts of violence sometimes ensued. In 1362 the
citizens slew several of their men, and burned a number of their houses out
of Bootham Bar ; and a reconciliation was not effected till Simon, the Abbot,
paid iSlOO. as a peace offering to the enraged party ; and he was so terrified,
that he left his monasteiy for more than a year. Soon after this the Abbot
obtained permission of the King to build a wall on each unprotected side of
the Abbey, the rampart of earth by which it had been previously enclosed not
being sufficient to protect it from the hostile attacks of the citizens, as well
as for a better defence against the incursions of the Scots ; hence arose the
high wall adjoining to Bootham and Marygate. The annals of t^e convent
thus particularises these walls, which were constructed with battlements,
towers, and a wooden gallery within, and completed in 1266. From Bootham
Bar to Marygate Tower,* 194 yards; from Marygate Tower to Lendal
Tower abutting upon the river Ouse, 420 yards ; from the West Tower to the
tower on the south, 246 yards ; and from thence by the rampart of the city
to Bootham Bar, 420 yards. The whole circumference of the enclosed area
was nearly three quarters of a mile.
The religious of this Abbey were Black Monks of the Order of St Bene-
dict, and had a psalter compiled for the especial use of their convent. It
was agreed upon and published in 1300, and the original volume is now in
the library of Jesus College, Cambridge. The superior was a mitred Abbot,
and as such had a seat in parliament, which entitled him to the dignified
appellation of " my lord." The Abbot of Selby and himself were the only
two in the north of England who et^oyed this distinction. The Archbishop
« The drcnlar tower at the north-east angle of the Abbey walls, at the eomer of
Marygate, in Bootham, is called 8t, Mary*9 Tower, In it were placed, after the Be-
formation, the ancient records of all the raligioiiB houses north of the Trent, under the
charge of the Lord President of the North. It was likewise the deposit for some of the
royal records of chanceiy, until the siege of York in 1644, when the tower was blown
np, and many valaable documents were partly destroyed, and partly buried in the ruins.
The date of this building is uncertain, though it is probably the work of the Abbot,
Simon de Warwick. Mr. Dodsworth, in his preparations for the original edition of the
Monoitieon, before he was joined by Dugdale, had made numerous transcripts from the
records preserved in this tower, which were afterwards presented to the Bodleian lA-
hmjf Ozfoid, by Thomas Lord Fairfla.
480 ANCIENT REUOIOUS HOUSES OF TORK.
of York, for the time being, had power, once a year, to visit 8t. Mary's Abbey
for the purpose of correcting or reforming, by the oomicil of the brethren,
and by some of his canons, any abuses that might be introduced.
The Lord Abbot possessed seTeral splendid country houses, the principal
of which were at Deighton and Overton villages, about three miles distant;
and his town residence was near St Faults Wharf, London. He had also
a spacious park at Benningbrough, which was always well stocked with
game ; and whenever he travelled abroad in his ecclesiajstical character, his
retinue was nearly as sumptuous as that of the Archbishop, to whom he was
very litde inferior in other respects. Thus did all go well with this famous
Benedictine Abbey till the reign of Henry VIH., when alas ! all its beauty,
splendour, riches, and power, could not save it from its impending doom.
The commissioners were despatched to take an inventoiy of its effects, and
that enormous spoliation, that is veiled under the soft word dissohuum,
soon followed.
In 1540, when it was surrendered to the King, the establishment consisted
of fifty monks, including the Abbot, Prior, and Sub-Prior, and probably about
150 servants. The last Abbot, William Thornton, or William Dent, ob-
tained a pension of 400 marks per annum, for the readiness with which he
obeyed the King's commands. The value of the revenues, according to Dug-
dale, amounted to £1,550. 7s. 9d. per annum. Speed says £2,085. Is. 5}d.,
" which," observes Drake, " considering that these computations were then
usually made by those that had a mind to be purchasers, and the diSerence
of money then and now, the bare rents of the lands would amount to an in-
conceivable value at this day." In the Valor of the d6th of Heniy Vili.
(1585), however, the total clear yearly income of the monastoiy was rated at
£3,001. 4s. 7|d. ; and the clear annual value at £1,650. Os. 7^d. — an enor-
mous sum in those days.
This Abbey had six ceUs or branch establishments, viz. — ^the Priory of St.
Bees, or Bega, in Cumberland, valued at the dissolution at £143. 17s. d^d. ;
the Priory of St Constantine, at Wetherall, in the same oounty, valued at
£117. lis. lOfd. ; St. Martinis, near Richmond, valued at £43. 16s. 8d. ;
the Priory of Romburch, in Cambridgeshire, no valuation; the Priory of
Sandtoft, in Lincolnshire, no valuation ; and the cell of St Mary Magdalen,
near the city of Lincoln.
The Arm8 of St. Mary*8 Abbey are, az. on a cross gu,, a bezant chained with
the demi-figure of a King, crowned, and holding ; a key in the first quarter.
In the procession roll to Parliament in 1512, the key is wanting.
In the Eboracum Drake has given an engraving of a very ancient and rode
AKCIEKT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
481
seal of tliis Abbej, appendant to a deed of the time of Edward IV. The
figure of ihe Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour in her lap forms the device.
In the office of the Duchy of Lancaster is a seal of Abbot Robert, to a deed
without a date, but apparently of the 13th century. It represents an abbot
at fuU length ; in his right hand a crozier, in his left a book ; legend, Si-
onxYH RoBERTi Abbatis Beate Marie Ebor. In the Augmentation
office is a deed made by Abbot William of York, dated 6th of Edward IV.
(1466), which has appended to it the official seal of the Abbot. The subject
is two female figures in two compartments, with two Gothic canopies ; and
aU that remains of the legend is SionxyM Pbiyatuu. There is another
seal of this Abbey in the Chapter House of Westminster, appendant to an
instrument of the dlst of Henry VIEI. (1530.) It is a large oval seal of the
then Abbot, mitred, but without a crozier, standing between two shields of
arms, under a rich Gothic canopy. At the feet, between two tassels, is
another shield of arms, and underneath is a fish placed horizontally. Le-
gend, 8. Dni. Edmundi. Whalley, Abbatis, Eeclesie* Beate, Marie, Juxta, Ebor.
ABBOTS OF ST. MARY'S, YORK.
DIED A.D.
1.— Stephen do Whitby 1112
2.— Richard 1131
3.— Godfrid 1182
4. — SaTarieos 1161
5.— Clement 1184
6.— Robert de Harpham 1189
7. — ^Robert de Longo Campo 1239
8.— William de Rondela 1244
9.~Thoma8 de Warihill 1258
10._Simon de Warwick 1296
11.— Benedict de Malton 1803
12.-John de Gylling 1313
13.— Allan de Nesse 1331
14.— Thomas de Malton 1859
15. — William Marreys or Maroys .... 1882
DIED A.D.
16.— William Brydford, D.D 1389
17.— Thomas Stayngreve 1398
18.— Thomas Pigot 1405
19.— Thomas de Spofforth *
20^-William Dalton 1423
21.— William Wellys+
22.— Roger Kirkeby 1438
23.— John Cottingham 1464
24.— Thomas Bothe 1485
25.— William Sever |
26. — ^Robert Warhop or Wanhop 1507
27.— Edmund Thornton 1521
28.— Edmund WaUey or Whalley 1530
29. — ^William Thornton (or Dent) con-
tinned tQl the dissolution.
To account for the rapid destruction of the many splendid monastic edifices
in this country, which though shorn of their ancient glories, are stiU " Great
in ruin, and nohle in decay," it must he home in mind that at their dissolu-
tion the large estahlishments were for the most part granted hy the^King to
• In 1422 he was translated to the See of Hereford.
<f In 1486 he was consecrated Bishop of Rochester.
X In 1502 he was translated to the See of Durham.
3 Q
482 ANCIENT REUGIOUS HOUSES OF TOBK.
noble or wealthy fjEimilies, in consideration of senricey or of payment of a sum
of money ; and that it was not unnataral for the new owners, under the ap-
prehensions excited by the unsettled state of the Reformation, to hasten and
complete the work of demolition, which religious zeal had begun. The Abbey
of St. Mary was retained by the Crown, yet it shared in the fate which
befel the greater part of the religious houses in England at that period.
Soon after the monks vacated it, an order for its destruction was issued, with
directions to erect on its site out of the ruins, a residence for the Lord Presi-
dents of the North, to be called the King'9 McmoTt in order " that the very
name and memory of the Abbey might be lost for oyer.** The site chosen
for this edifice was that of the south transept of the church, and the buildings
of the Abbey, which extended from the transept to nearly the wall of the
Abbey close, including the Chapter House, with its yestibule; also the
library, the scriptorium, and seyeral other rooms, the use of which is not
known. In fact it stood on the ground now occupied by the Yorkshire Mu-
seum, but it extended over a greater space ; and in the lower apartments of
the Museum may now be seen a portion of the foundations of the front wall
of this mansion, with the fire-place of the room of the Abbey, through which
the wall was carried. The two fine vaults at the end of the play-ground of
the School for the Blind likewise belonged to this residence. These cell&rs,
which are arehed with stone, and measure IS9 feet long by dd feet wide, and
11 feet high, and in each of which is a well of excellent water, stand baieath
the ruins of the kitchen and other domestic offices of that mansion, and are
erroneously stated by some to have been the cellars of St Mary*s Abbey.
(See page 343.)
In 1701 such of the buildings of the Abbey as still remained were granted
by William III. to the magistrates of the county, to be employed in the erec-
tion of the county gaol, or what are called the " Old Buildings ** of York
Castle. In 1705 the neighbouring church of St. Olave was extensively
repaired from the same quarter ; and in 1717 the Corporation of BcTeriej
was allowed to carry away, during the space of three years, as much stone as
was required for the restoration of Beverley Minster. In the supply of mate-
rials for these and some minor works, the decayed part of the Manor Palace,
the wall by the river, with those buildings of the monasteiy which had ^ot
before been destroyed, almost totally disappeared. Lai^e quantities of the
hallowed stone of the conventual chureh were even burnt into lime upon the
spot, and conveyed to different parts of the country.
" That after such repeated and extensive spoliations one stone should U^
left standing upon another, to mark the spot on which this once splendid
ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 483
establishment flourished, is a matter of pleasing astonishment,** writes Mr.
Allen, ** that no more remains must ever be deeply regretted by all who are
capable of forming any just conception, from the little that violence and time
have spared, of the exquisite taste and unrivalled elegance that distinguished
the original structure. Unaided by those circumstances which usually ac-
company, and throw an indescribable charm around the mouldering monu-
ments of ancient piety, the ruins of tile conventual church of St. Mary liave
afibrded a favourite subject for ihe pencil of the artist, and gratified even the
most fastidious lover of the picturesque. " No one ever visited York with any
curiosity to behold the relics of its former greatness and splendour, and con-
templated without admiration a scene which familiarity deprives not of the
power to interest and delight. No lover of ancient ecclesiastical architecture
ever walked over that part of the close of the monastery of St. Mary acces-
sible to the visitant, without thinking of the once magnificent refectory, the
retired cloister, the splendid Chapter House, on the site of which he was
treading, without feeling an earnest wish that the research, which had been
attended with so much success at Whalley and at Jervaulx, might here also
be undertaken ; or, without indulging the confident hope that it would bo as
amply rewarded by curious and valuable discoveries. A fortunate concur-
rence of circumstances has at length realized such wishes, justified such a
hope, and added to our means of investigating the economy of monastic
establishments;"'*'
Mr. Allen here aUndes to the grant from the Crown which the Yorkshire
Philosophical Society received in 1837, of nearly three acres of ground within
the ancient precincts of the Abbey, including the remains of the Abbey
church, with the exception of the choir ; and to the subsequent excavations
carried on by that body, by which the ground plan of the monastic buildings,
intersected by the massive foundations of the Manor Palace, were discovered
and laid bare. This Society selected as the site of the building for their
Museum, &c., the ^t upon which the front part of the Lord President's
mansion had formerly stood, and which at an earlier period had been occupied
by the range of the buildings and apartments of the Abbey. Upon removing
the rubbish, and opening the ground, considerable portions of the walls of
the monastery, of spacious and elegant doorways, of columns of varied forms,
rising to the height of five or six feet, standing as they did before the Abbey
was dismantled, were brought to light. In the intervening spaces were scat-
tered numberless fragments of capitals, mouldings, and rich tracery work.
* History of Yorkshire, Book iii., page 070.
481 ANCIENT REUQIOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
Of similar materials the foundation walls of the palace, upon being broken
up, were found to consist. " Not an hour passed," says Allen, " without
bringing to light some long-buried beautiful specimens of the art and fiincy
of the monastic sculptor, some memorial of departed splendour, to gratify the
eye, to exercise the imagination, to send back the thoughts to times and per-
sons, and manners, long passed away."
The Rev. C. Wellbeloved, the late E. Strickland, Esq., and a few lovers
of antiquarian research, raised a subscription for the purpose of extending
the excaTations beyond what was necessary for the foundations of the Mu-
seum, and when this sum was exhausted the Council of the society undertook
the completion of the work so happily b^un ; and thus was dlscoTered the
situation and extent of the chief buildings that composed this splendid
monastic establishment
The church of the Abbey was 871 feet in length, and GO feet in breadth.
It was cruciform in shape, with a central tower. That picturesque ruio,
which consists of a part of the north wall of the nave, containing the spaces
of eight windows, and portions of the clustered columns at each end of the
nave, is all the remains of that splendid edifice. The tracery, and in some
of the windows the mullions, have entirely disappeared. The nave and choir
had two side aisles, the transepts had only one aisle, on the eastern side.
There was only one entrance to the nave at the western end, on the northern
side was another doorway, and on the southern side, near the transept, was an
entrance from the quadrangle, and probably there was another from the western
end near the dormitory. The remains of the western front of the church
must have been, in its perfect state, exceedingly beautiful. It was divided
into three divisions by buttresses, crowned with turrets or spires and crockeCed
pinnacles. The ornaments about the doorway have been singularly elegant,
chaste, and gracefid. In the deep hollow moulding between every column
is figured the shoot of a vine, rising from the bottom and forming at the top
a foliated capital. At the eastern end of the nave are the remains of the four
piers that supported the central tower. The extent of the transepts is also
shewn by the remaining bases of the pillars. Of the choir (which was of
unusual length) nothing is left but the bases of the piUars and walls. This
portion of the ruin is in the grounds of the School for the Blind, which
adjoin the Museum gardens. The general style of the ruin is Decorated,
and it certainly forms a very interesting specimen of the time of Henry HE.
This church, when perfect, must have almost rivalled the Minster in beauty.
Sufficient yet remains of the ruins of the Abbey to carry the mind back to
other times, and to indicate the labours and the resting place of the first
ANCIENT BELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 485
Abbot, Stephen de Whitby, who died in 11 Id, and whose supposed tombstone,
thus inscribed, is seen in a small court east of the ruins of the church ; Hic
Jacet : Stepams Ab. B. Jspn. This stone, which measures 6 feet 2i inches
long, bj 3 feet 1^ inches wide, and 7 inches thick, is much mutilated, and
the inscription is scarcely legible. The great quadrangle, in its usual situ-
ation on the south side of the nave, was probably furnished with a pent-
house cloister on every side.
In the western cloister the school of the monastery was usually kept ; and
near this side fragments of painted tiles were found, having on them the letters
of the alphabet in characters of the 14th century, which were read from right
to left.
There are no remains of the Chapter House of the Abbey, but the lowest
portion of the foundations, built of grit stone, and therefore probably be-
longing to the structure of Stephen. All above the foundation seems to have
been removed to make room for the spacious cellars of the Lord President's
residence, the walls of which evidently contain many of the finely-sculptured
stones that adorned this once magnificent apartment. The approach to the
Chapter House firom the quadrangle was through a beautiful vestibule, sup-
ported by two rows of pillars.
A range of four arches formed the entrance to the vestibule and the ad-
joining passage from the cloister. There is nothing equal or similar to this
grand vestibule to be traced in any of the great Abbeys, excepting, perhaps,
Kirkstall. The preservation of so much of this part of the monastery, and
of the whole range of apartments south of the transept, is owing to the archi-
tects of the Lord President's palace having chosen this to be the site of the
front of that building, and to their having also taken the level of the transept
for that of their ground floor. All below that level they left standing, filling
the space not occupied by the foundation walls of the palace with the frag-
ments of the Abbey. Amongst the numerous apartments discovered is the
refectory, 82 feet long and 87 wide, corresponding in its dimensions with the
magnitude of the establishment. It was longitudinally divided into three
parts by two rows of octangular pillars, five in each row. Adjoining the^.
refectory was an apartment, which, if the finely- worked bosses or ceiling
knots found buried in it had originally adorned its roof, as they most probably
did, must have possessed exquisite beauty. This room was divided longitu-
dinally and transversely into three equal parts by elegant moulded pillars,
resting on a cluster of regular octangular bases, from which, without capitals,
sprang ribs for the support of the vaulting. It had a large ornamented fire-
place, backed with tiles, finished in front with grit stone, and guarded by a
486 ANCIENT BELiaiOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
stone fender. The foundation of the front of the Lord President's palace
passed through this room hetween the fire-place and the nearest row of pil-
lars, and to this circumstance we owe the preservation of the fire-place, which
is still standing, as we have already ohserved, in one of ihe lower apartments
of the Museum.
This latter apartment is supposed to have heen the parlour, or perhaps the
" common house," which is described " as having a fire constantly by day
in winter for the use of the monks, who were allowed no other fire."* It
was furnished with a stone seat on every side. Two other apartments, one
75 feet long and 30 feet wide, divided transversely into six parts by ^Ye oc-
tagonal piers ; and the other divided transversely into three parts by octagonal
piers, without capitals, from which the vaulting sprang ; are supposed to have
been the guest room, or the refectory of the novices ; and the library, or the
scriptorium,! or both.
Portions of the site of the Abbot's residence are still remaining in the
buildings on the same site selected by James I. for a royal palace, and now
occupied by the Wilberforce School for the Blind.
At the lower end of the Abbey close — ^towards the river — stands a large
building which is now called the Hospitium of the monastery. " There is no
documentary or traditionary evidence respecting either the age of the building
or of the uses to which it was applied," says Mr. Wellbeloved, in the little
work already referred to, ''It did not come within the limits of the portion of
the Abbey close, granted by the Crown to the Yorkshire Philosophical So-
ciety;" continues that gentleman, "and being at that time partly occupied
• See Fosbrooke's British Monachison, p. 69.
4 The Seriptorium was the apartment for transcribing books, especially the Bible, in
the monastic cloister. In the early and middle ages of Christiaxiity the pen was the
engine for doing the work of our machinery ; and that the labonr of the monks in
transcribing and illuminating was prodigious, is amply attested by the list of works they
produced. " Books were then so beautifully painted and embellished with emblems and
miniatures," says Oerbert, ** that the whole seemed to be the produce not of human bnt of
angelic hands.*' In the scriptorium the toiling monk — ^that pioneer of biblical literature
— ^plied his weary task — tracing letter after letter on the page of vellum — ^for many a year
before one single copy of the bible was produced. Leomine, in his typographical an-
tiquities quoted by Home, says " Fifty years were sometimes employed to produce a
single volume, an evidence of which occurred at the sale of the lato Sir William Bnrrel's
books, in 1796. Among these was a MS. Bible, beautifdlly written on vellum and iDu-
minated, which had taken the writer half a century to execute. The writer, Gnido de
Jars, began it in his 40th year, and did not finish it till he had accomplished his 90th,
A.D. 1294, in the reign of Philip the Fair, as appeared by the writer's own autograph in
the front of the book."
ANCIENT REMGIOUS HOUSES OF TOEK. 487
by two or three families, and partly by stalls for their horses and cattle, the
internal character of the building could not possibly be ascertained. It was
then supposed that it might have been the Grange of the Abbey. But that
notion was at once abandoned when, having come into the possession of the
Society, it was cleared of all the nuisances by which it had been long encum-
bered and defiled. It was then conjectured that it had been erected for the en-
tertainment of those strangers who were not admitted to the principal apart-
ments of the monastery ; the lower room having been the refectory, and the
upper, originally of the same extent, the dormitory. The position of this
building, near one of the entrances to the monastery, and the correspondence
of the plan of the lower room with that of the refectory for the monks, tend
to confirm that conjecture. The portion of the lower apaitment on the left
of the doorway, lighted by five narrow windows, was originally separated by
a cross wall from the other portion, forming perhaps a store room or buttery.
If this building was originally such as it now is, constructed partly of
stone and partly of timber and plaster, it must have been one of the later
structures belonging to the monastery. Yet it cannot have been the latest,
for the manner in which the a^oining archway is attached to it, indicates
that this was subsequently erected. And this is evidently of the same age
as the building ai^oining the ancient Abbey gate. This archway appears to
have been the entrance into the interior of the Abbey close from the river,
and may be termed the Water-gate. Between it and the river were two
walls, built by Abbot Thomas de Malton in 1534 ; the one proceeding from
the tower at the end of the Abbey wall, in Marygate, along the margin of the
river, till it met the Abbey wall from near Bootham Bar ; and the other
parallel to it, near the Water-gate. The apartments attached to this gateway
may have been the residence not only of the gate-keeper, but also of those
whose diitj it was to attend to the strangers who were received into the Hos-
pitium." This building now contains a fine collection of Egyptian, Roman,
Saxon, and Medieval antiquities — ^being part of the Yorkshire Museum.
In levelling the ground of the south aisle of the nave of the Abbey church
the workmen discovered, at the depth of eight feet, seven statues, lying with
the faces downward ; four of them were nearly perfect, but the three others
were much mutilated. All of them had been painted and gilded, but the
coloujrs rapidly fEuled on being exposed to the light and air. The form of the
drapery is different in each, but elegant in all, though the workmanship is
somewhat rude. At the back of each of these statues is part of the shaft of
a pillar, about seven inches in diameter, which determines their situation in
the church to have been against the columns that supported the groinings of
488 ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF TORS.
the Foof ; and since there were seven pillars in the nave, we may conclude
that there were originallj at least fourteen statues, and that the above-named
seven had been placed on the side near which ihey were buried. It is now
considered beyond doubt that the two statues, long known in York as curious
relics of antiquity, and the figures of which may be seen in Plate 8 of Drake's
Eboracum, belonged to this set, as they correspond in every important re-
spect with those found in the ruins of the Abbey. Dr. Gale supposed these
two statues represented a Roman senator and his lady, but Drake justly
objects to this on account of the form of the beard. The latter writer thus
alludes to them : — '' On the churchyard wall of St. Lawrence, extra Walm-
gate, lie two veiy ancient statues prostrate ; but whether Roman or Saxon,
Pagan or Christian, since better antiquaries than myself have been puzzled,
I shall not determine."
Both Allen and Wellbeloved say that one of them is evidently a figure of
St John the Baptist, bearing his proper emblem — a lamb on his left arm ; and
that it closely resembles a statue of the Baptist on the porch of the chapel
of Magdalen College, Oxford, as drawn by Carter. " Supposing these two to
have belonged to the church of St. Mary's Abbey," continues the former, '4t
may be safely conjectured that the fourteen statues, which probably adorned
the nave of that church, or at least some of them, were emblematical repre-
sentations of ' the Old and New Law ;' agreeable to the explanation which
William of Worcester has given of some of the numerous figures that graced
the western front of the Cathedral of Wells."* If these observations be just,
the statues must be coeval with the nave of the Abbey Church, which was
built at the end of the Idth or the beginning of the 14th century.
The seven first named statues are now deposited in the Yorkshire Museum,
and the two which had long served as coping stones to the wall of the church
yard of St. Lawrence, are now to be seen fixed against the wall of that church
(the churchyard wall having been removed), one on each side of the north
doorway. Mr. Wellbeloved tells us that one of this series of statues having
long formed part of the arch of the bridge at Clifton, has recently been re-
moved and. restored, in a sadly weatherworn state, to its fellows in the
Museum.
Since the venerable remains of the Abbey came into the possession of the
Philosophical Society, every means have been taken to preserve and beautify
them. Several of the remains, laid bare by the extensive excavation already
mentioned, are still exposed to view near the ruins.
* Allen's Hist, of Yorks., on the authority of Carter's Specimens of Andent Sonlptnre.
ANCIENT BELIOIOUS HOUSES OF TORK. 489
In the entrance hall of the Yorkshire Museum is a veiy interesting relic
of the Abbey of St. Maiy. It is the Mortar of the infirmary of the estab-
lishment— a beautiful specimen of Mediaeval art— of bell metal, weighing
76 lbs., and bearing the following inscription in Old English characters.
On the upper rim : 1- Mortariu. Sci. Johis. EwangeL De. Ifirmaria. Bg,
Marie. Ebar. The lower : J- Fr. Wills. De. Toutharp. Me. Fecit. A.D.
MCCCVIIL
For nearly two centuries after the dissolution of the Abbey, nothing is
known of this ancient mortar. The earliest notice we have of it occurs in an
anonymous letter to Gent, published by hijn in his History of Hull, and
dated 1734. The writer of the letter states that after having been long in
the possession of the Fairfax famUy it had passed into the hands of Mr.
Smith, a bell-founder in York, by whom it had been sold to a Mr. Addington,
whose son Joseph Addington, confectioner, in the Minster Yard, had pos-
session of it at the date of the letter. Gough, in his edition of Camden's
Britannia, published in 1780, says, " It was lately in the hands of an apo-
thecary at Selby, after whose death all traces of it were lost." In 1811, Mr.
Rudder, a bell founder at Birmingham, discovered it in his metal warehouse
amidst a large quantity of old metal which he had purchased, and unwilling
to commit so interesting and beautiful a relic to the furnace, he put it aside
year afler year, and at length removed it to his private residence ; and finally
presented it to his antiquarian friend Mr. Blount, an eminent surgeon in
Birmingham. After his death it was sold by auction, in the year 1835, with
the rest of his coUection, and purchased at a considerable price by Mr. Samuel
Kenrick, of West Bromwich, for the generous and laudable purpose of re-
storing it to its proper place among the remains of the religious establishment
to which it originally belonged.
The wall which surrounded the Abbey Close, and which is supposed to
have been built by Abbot Simon, enclosed about fifteen acres. A great part
of this wall still remains behind the houses on the south side of Bootham,
and in Marygate. Besides the close, properly so called, the Abbey possessed
a spacious piece of rich ground to the north of Marygate, running down to
the river, which was called Almiy, or Almonry-garth. The Abbey had two
principal gates (besides the one which Mr. Wellbeloved calls the Watergate),
one to the east, opening into Bootham, near Bootham Bar (the present en-
trance to the Manor or School for the Blind) ; and the second, or principal
entrance, opening into Marygate, and now forming the entrance to the Mu-
seum Gardens from that street. The remains of the latter entrance consist
of a fine old arch and aicade of the Norman period, having attached to them
3 R
UH) ANCTKNT liKIJOrOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
a part of the gate-house, the residence of the porter, which is evidently of a
later date ; the portion above the archway and on the other side of it being
destroyed. The lower story of the part of the gate-house still standing ap-
pears to have been the prison of the Abbey, in which debtors to the Abbot,
in the extensive liberties of St. Mary, and perhaps others subject to his
power, were confined. The upper part, Mr. Wellbeloved says, was probably
the room in which the Abbot held his courts ; but Mr. Hargrove states that
the court of the said liberties was held by the Steward of the Abbot in a large
room over the gateway, which was ascended by a flight of stone steps, and
the floor of which was neatly executed in chequered marble.* The present
building, and that which corresponded to it on the other side of the gateway,
is supposed to have been added to the ancient gate in the latter half of the
16th century. This part of the gate-house, after being for several years a
public-house, was restored about sixteen years ago, and has since been the
residence of Professor Phillips. The style of the exterior of the old building
was studiously preserved. Tradition has placed upon the site of St. Mary's
Abbey the pagan Temple of Bellona. Near Earsley Bridge, on the Foss,
formerly stood the mills of the Abbot of St. Mary's Abbey, but they have
long since disappeared.
PiuoRY OF THE HoLY Trinitt, Micklcgate. — There was a religious estab-
lishment or a church here endowed for Canons in very early times. It is
twice mentioned in the Domesday Survey, where, in one entry, an allusion
to its privileges occurs, though these are not stated at large ; nor is there
any notice of the predial rents with which it was endowed. Soon after the
Conquest the house became decayed, and the Canons were brought to ruin ;
and the site of the former became a part of the fee of Ralph de PaganeU, or
Paynell, one of the Conqueror's followers. Ralph PaganeU refounded the
monastery, and renewed the endowment, not for Canons, but for Benedictine
monks, in 1089, and gave it as a cell to the Abbey of St. Martin Marmou-
stier, at Tours, in France. The endowment of the new foundation consisted
of the adjoining church of the Holy Trinity, with three crofts appertaining to
it ; the church of St. Helen, in York, with the toft adjacent ; also the churches
of All Saints, in North Street, and St. Bridget, in Micklegate, and the chapel
of St. James, without the walls. The founder likewise gave the monks
various churches, and the tithes of several halls, in Yorkshire and Lincoln-
shire, including the churches of Leeds, Barton-in-Ryedale, Hoton-in-Bilaham,
Moncton, Ardington, and Stratton, with several lands, fisheries, &c.
* Hargrove's History of York, vol. ii., page 591.
ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 491
The temporalities of this Priory in 1292 were rated at no less than £60.
lOs. 5d, per annum. In the 34th of Edward I. (1305), by an inquisition
taken at York, it was found that the heirs of the founder had no right in these
temporalities on the death of any Prior; and that the Abbot of Marmonstier
bad the sole appointment of a successor. In the 30th of Edward m. (1357),
that monarch confirmed all the privileges and possessions of the Priory. Upon
the suppression of the alien monasteries, this Prioiy was suffered to remain ;
and according to Cotton's abridgement, it was made denizen by consent of Par-
liament in the 4th of Henry VI. (1426.) In consequence of the exclusive
patronage of the Abbot of Marmonstier, the Priors of this monastery were
neither admitted nor confirmed by the Archbishops of the province ; we have
therefore no regular catalogue of them. Stephen was admitted Prior in 1231 ;
Oliver de Gages, Prior of this monastery in 1307, was excommunicated by the
Archbishop of the diocese ; John de Chesiaco was Prior in 1357 ; and John
Bum in 1453. Richard Speyte, the last Prior, surrendered the house in the
26th of Henry VIII. (1636), when the amount of its revenues was £196. 17s.
2d. ; the clear receipts being £169. 9s. lOd. per annum. In 1543 the site and
the demesne lands were granted to Leonard Beckwith. In 1736 the property
belonged to the Goodrick family of Ribston. " The circuit of ground be-
longing to the site of this Priory," says Drake, " was of great extent, being
bounded by the street on one side, a lane called Trinity Lane on the east,
the city walls on the west, and its own walls on the south." The site long
called Trinity Gardens, and long occupied as a garden ground, has, as we
have shown at page 359, been recently purchased with the view of making
a new thoroughfare from Micklcgato to Bishophill. The only portion re-
maining of this once splendid Priory is the nave of the church (now the
parish church of Holy Trinity). An old gateway, fronting into Micklegate,
which formerly was the portal of the monastery, has just been removed, and
the new street is to unite with Micklegate at the point where it stood. That
venerable portal consisted of a beautiful spacious arch, which sprung from
dwarf piers ; above which was a square window of three lights, with sculp-
tured blocks supporting the cornice. The roof terminated in a plain gable.
An imperfect copy of the seal of the Priory is given by Drake, in his Ap-
pendix, p. ci. It is of an oval form, having in the area the first person of
the Blessed Trinity, holding in front a figure of our Divine Redeemer on the
Cross. The inscription, when perfect, seems to have been Siouxu. Pri-
oRATvs. Sakcte. Tbinitatis. Ebor.
The Monastery of Dominican Friars, or Friars Preachers, was estab-
lished in York early in the reign of Ilcnry III., by the bounty of Brynn
492 ANXIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YORK.
Stapleton, Esq. The monastery is supposed to have stood near the end of
the platforms of the Railway Station, on part of the ground called Les Toftes,
Previous to the excavations for the railway, the site of this monastery was
also called Friars Gardens. In the 82nd of Henry Vill. (1641), the huilding,
Arc, were granted to William Blytheman. When Allen wrote, in 1829, the
only remains of the institution was a curious old draw-well, situated in the
gardens; hut the gardens and draw-weU have since disappeared, and the
whole of the site of the monastery is swallowed up in the Railway Station.
The Monastery of the Order of St. Francis, commonly called Grey
Friars f or Friars Minors^ was situated on the north side of the Ouse, near
the Castle. Of this extensive and celehrated house, the scene of many im-
portant events, Drake writes as follows : — " We are informed hy historians
that the monastery of the Friars Minors was usually the residence of our
former English Kings, when they came to York ; and that it was noble and
spacious, we are assured by Froissart, who tells us that Edward III. and his
mother both lodged in it, when the fray happened betwixt the English soldiers
and strangers."
We find by this historian that the building was so convenient, that each
of these royal guests, though attended with a numerous suite of quality, kept
court apart in it ; which must argue it a structure of very great extent and
magnificence. By a patent of Richard IT., the fact of its being made use of
as a regal palace is confirmed. That King strictly prohibited any person
from carrying of filth, or laying of dunghills, <fec., in the lanes or passages
leading to the monastery ; where, as the patent expresses, he himself, as wdl
as his grandfather, used to inhabit. Also butchers and other persons are by
the same order prohibited from casting into, or washing in the river Ouse
any entrails of beasts, or any other nastinesses, to the prejudice or nuisance
of this monastery.
This establishment was founded in the time of Henry III., as it is said by
the King himself; and Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, was one of its greatest
benefactors. It had a conventual church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin,
and the order of Friars Minors is said to have been divided into seven cus-
todies or wardships, of which this establishment was a principal one. Hence
it had under its jurisdiction the Friaries of Beverley, Doncaster, and Scar-
borough ; also Boston, Grimsby, and Lincoln. The last Warden, William
Vavasour, with fifteen friars and five novices, surrendered this house in the
30th of Henry VIII. ; and four years afterwards the site was granted to
Leonard Beckwith.
A part of the outer walls of this monastciy are standing at the present day
AKCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YORK. 40;}
on the north side of the Ouse, a little bejond the King's staith or wharf, and
one of its boundary walls may be traced from towards the river, through tho,
premises and into the house now in the occupation of Mr. George Hope,
Bookseller, Casdegate. Those on the bank of the Ouse are still called Friars
Walls, and that part of the site which thej enclose, and which is not occu-
pied by buildings, is called Friars Gardens. Several lots of this garden-land
have recently been built upon. In front of the walls on the river bank are
the evident remains of a staith originally belonging to the monastery.
The Austin Friars, or Friars Hermits of the Order of St. Augustine, are
supposed to have settled in York as early as 1278, and their convent is said
to have been founded by Lord Scrope. Leland mentions that the Augustine
Friary was situated on the banks of the Ouse near Ouse Bridge, so that it
seems clear there were two monastic establishments on the north side of tho
river. " In one of the testamentary burials of Mr. Torre," says Drake, " Joan
Trollop, anno 1441, leaves her body to be buried in the conventual church of
the Friars Eremite of St Augustine, in York. The term of Eremites to
this order is what I have not before met with; the Friars Minors were
styled Earmitae, i. e. Eremi in coUb. The Eremites, or Hermits in the north,
were corruptly called Cremitts, and there is an annual rent paid out of some
houses in Stonegate, called Cremitt money, at this day, which undoubtedly
belonged to a religious house of these orders ; for some of the poorer sort of
monks being called hermits, an hermitage and an hospital had one and the
same signification." The Augustinians were originally hermits, whom Pope
Alexander IV. first congregated into one body under General Lanfranc in
1256. They observed the rule of St. Augustine, the great doctor of tho
church, and were clothed in black.
Bobert Davies, Esq., F.S.A., delivered an interesting lecture at the York
Institute, in the month of December, 1854, entitled " An Antiquarian Walk
through some of the streets of York ; " and in reference to the old timber
house of the Elizabethan period, next to the Post-Office, in Lendal, he stated
that he had lately discovered that this house stood on the site of the house of
the Augustine Friars. " Leland in the reign of Henry VIII.," continued
the learned lecturer,'!' *' stated that each of the four religious orders called
Mendicant Friars — ^the Carmelite, the Franciscan, the Dominican, and tho
Augustine — had religious houses in York, and describes the establishment
of the latter as lying between ' Ouse Bridge and the tower.* Drake, sup-
posing that the tower here mentioned was Clifford's Tower, fixed the abodo
* As reported in the York Herald newspaper.
404 AXfirST RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
of the Augustine Friars between the Friars' Walls and Casti<^ate Postern.
He (Mr. Davies), however, was of opinion that that was the house of the
Franciscans, and that the tower of which Leland spoke was the tower of
Lendal Ferry. They must therefore look for the Augustine Friars in that
direction, and a document he had lately seen placed the house and church of
the Augustines in Conyng Street, precisely on the spot laid down by Leland,
Mr. Davies read some extracts from the document to which he referred, from
which it appeared the Augustine Friars purchased a strip of land in Conyng
Street in 1392, and gave permission to the Mayor to place the buttresses of
the Guild-Hall on their property, and to allow the common gutter to run
along the west side of that hall. Although the Augustine Friars were
known as mendicants and eremites, or hermits, yet they were not debarred
from exercising hospitality, for in 14 82, when Richard Duke of Gloucester,
afterwards Richard III., visited York, they found the Friars of Augustine
presenting him with several gallons of wine of various kinds, and other good
things." Thus it appears that the site of the Augustine Friary was between
Lendal Tower and the Guild-Hall.
The Fuiars of the Oudeb of Mount Carmel, commonly called Cann^-
lites or White Friars y had a powerful monastic establishment at York, which
was of such extent as to occupy nearly all the ground from Stainbow or
Stonebow Lane to the river Foss. A portion of the Friary wall still re-
mains at the cast end of Stonebow Lane. The Order of the Friars Car-
melites was, as has been observed, one of the four orders of mendicants or
begging Friars. It took both its name and origin from Carmel, a mountain
in Syria, formerly inhabited by the prophets Elijah and Elisha, and by the
children of the prophets ; and from them these monks profess to derive their
origin, in an uninterrupted succession.
" The site of their monastery in York," writes Drake, " is particularly
expressed in a charter of confirmation, granted to them by King Edward L,
anno 1300, dated at York. It appears here, by inspeximus, that William
do Vescy gave them the first piece of ground to build on, and bestowed upon
them all his land, messuages, and tenements, that he had in a street or lane
called le Stainbogh." From the same authority we learn, that, in the reign
of Edward II, (1314), that King, then at York, bestowed a messuage and
yards, upon the prior and brethren of this order, situate in the street of
Mersks (a name no longer known at York), which he had of the gift of Galfred
do Saint Quiutiu, contiguous to their house, for the enlargement of it; that
the same King, by another grant dated a few days after the former, gave
permission to those Friars to build a quay or wharf on his vivary of the Foss,
AXCIENT REMGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK. 105
in their own land and within their close, and to have a boat on his said vivarj
to fetch stone, wood, or other necessaries, as weD under Foss Bridge as from
any other place on the said vivary, or fish pool, to their quay ; that the same
King soon after granted to these Friars, by two deeds dated at York and
Lincoln, all those houses with their appurtenances in Fossgate, which he had
of the gift of Thomas the son of William le Aquiler, of York, and Cicily his
wife ; also all that land with appurtenances in the same city, which he had
by gift from Abel de Richale, of York, for the enlargement of their monastery ;
and that in the reign of Richard 11., Henry de Percy, Lord of Spoflbrd,
granted to these Friars a piece of ground to the west, contiguous to their
house, for the enlargement of their monastery. On the 27th of November,
1539, the last prior, S. Clarkson, nine brothers, and three novices, sur-
rendered up their house into the King's hands, and in 1544 the site was
granted to one Ambrose Beckwith.
The principal entrance to the Priory was in Fossgate, near its junction
with Pavement, and at a very early period divine service was celebrated in an
oratory on the gateway. The Convent, which was styled the Prior and
Brethren of the Order St. Mary de Monte Carmeli, had also a church dedi-
cated in honour "of our Lady St. Mary." About fifty years ago Mr. Rusby
purchased a part of the site of this religious house, then occupied as a garden,
and erected several buildings thereon. In digging up an old foundation about
that time his workmen came to an ancient arch, in which were two distinct
and separate parts of a tombstone ; and in another place they found a flag
gravestone, with the representation of a crosier at each comer. The former
he carefully joined, and placed as a flag in front of his house in Hungate,*
and it may be still seen before the same house, which was lately in the
occupation of Mr. Joseph Matthews. Near the edge is a Latin inscription,
now nearly effaced, which may thus be translated : — " Pray for Sir Simon de
Wintringham, a priest, formerly vicar of St. Martin the Great, London, to
whose soul may God be merciful." The middle of the stone is curiously
carved, the letters of the inscription are of the Old Anglo-Saxon chsuracter,
and it is remarkable that there is not any date.f
The Priory of the Fratres de Monte Carmeli, in York, is not noticed in the
Monasticon, or in Speed's Catalogue of the Religious Houses. '' An ancient
record in Mr. Hargrove's possession," writes Allen, *' states that ' a Maison
• Hargrove's York, vol. ii., p. 326.
f This stone is engraved in Gent. Mag., 1797, pt. ii., p. 031. Sir Simon de Wintring-
ham died in 1420. He was a Canon of Lincoln, Prebendary of Ledyngton, and Provost
of the Chantry of Cotterstock, Northamptonshire.
49t) ANCIENT BEUOIOUS HOUSFS OF YORK.
Dieu was founded in White Friars' Lane, Lajerthorpe, temp. Edward IV ; *
whence it is natural to infer that there must anciently have been a monasteiy
of White Friars also, from which the name has arisen ; but on this subject
we can only conjecture, as there are no remains of either building, and even
the name itself is now no longer retained.''
Crouched or Cbutched Friars. — Bishop Tanner, in his Notitia Momu-
tica, states that there was a monastery of this order at York, though he has
not attempted to describe its situation. They began to settle in this city in
the beginning of the reign of Edward 11., but were discountenanced by the
Archbishop. In the 21st of Edward HI. (1338), Thomas, Lord Wake, gave
them one toft and ten acres of land on the moor of Blakeshame, in Famdale,
for building an oratory and habitation. The site of the monastery of Crouched
Friars at York is assigned by tradition to the comer of Barker Hill, facing
Monkgatc ; and from this institution the latter street is supposed to derive
its name. Mr. Wellbcloved says that it is probable that the house of those
friars stood near Monk Bar, as there are indications of some ancient buildings
having been there.
At Clemen thorpe was a Benedictine Nunnery dedicated to St. Clement, to
which the parish church of that village was attached. In the year 1145,
Thurstan, Archbishop of York, granted ** to God, St. Clement, and to the nuns
there serving God, in pure and perpetual alms, the place wherein this mo-
nastery, with other buildings of the said nuns, was erected ; together with
two carucates of land in the suburbs of York, 20s. annual rent, issuing out
of his fair in York, kc, which was confirmed by the Dean and Chapter.'' In
1284, Nicholas, son of Adam Poteman, of Clementhorpe, granted to Agnes,
the Prioress, and the nuns of St. Clement s, two messuages in Clementhoipe,
with a toft, a croft, and half an acre of land. These and several other giants
to the nuns were confirmed by King Edward m. at York, in 1827.
In 1102, Geofirey Plantagenot, Archbishop of York, gave this convent,
contrary to the wishes of the nuns, to the nunnery of Godstow ; and Alicia,
then Prioress, refusing to obey the order, went to Borne to appeal to the Pope.
Notwithstanding this appeal, the Archbishop excommunicated the whole
sisterhood. At the dissolution, Isabel Ward, the last Prioress, surrendered
this nimnery to Henry YIII., and had a pension allowed her of £6. 13s. 4d.
per annum.* The church, however, continued parochial till 1585, when,
• The first instance said to be mentioned in history of a nannery is in the life of St.
Antony, Abbot, written by the great St. Athanasius. That sainted biographer teUs us
that St. Antony, who was bom in Upper Egypt, in the year 251, plaoed his sister in a
house of virgins about tlie year 272. He afterwards founded a monasteiy at Phaiom, is
ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOKK. 497
along with the parish of Middlethorpe, it was miited to St. Mary s, Bishop-
hiU the Elder.
St. Andrew's Priory stood in a field now termed Stone Wall Close, be-
tween Blae-bridge Lane and the Glass Works. It was founded in 1202 by
Hugh Murdac, Archbishop of York, who " granted to God and to the twelve
Canons of the Order of Sempringham, or St. Gilbert, serving God at St.
Andrews, in Fishergate, Ebor. the church of the same place with lands adja-
cent." This Prioiy had also several other lands, rents, <fec., granted to it at
various times. On the d8th of November, 1538, it was surrendered by the
Prior and three monks, at which time its annual income, according to Dug-
dale, was JS47. 14s. dd. ; but Speed states it at dS57. 6s. 9d. The site was
granted in 1545 to John Bellow and John Broxholme. Leland tells us that
this Priory stood exactly opposite the nunnery of St. Clement ; and hence a
tradition long existed amongst the ignorant that there was a subterraneous
passage from one to the other, though the river Ouse runs between them.
There are no remains now visible of St Andrew's Priory, except some small
portions of the Priory walls, which may still be seen in Blue-bridge Lane.
For the College of 8t, WUliam and the Bedem, see pages 469 and 470.
Hospitals. — Li former times Hospitals, or Spitals, were usually erected
outside the town, and were intended as places of entertainment for poor pil-
grims who could not afford to pay for their lodgings in the town. All the
Hospitals observed the rule of St. Austin.
For St. Leonard's Hospital, see page 471 of this history.
Hospital of St. Nicholas, — Stood in Watlingate, now Lawrence Street,
without Walmgate Bar, near Plantation House and the Tan Yard. The
Hospital was situated behind the church of St. Nicholas, and in ancient
writings the church and it are classed together as one religious house, and
termed the Priory of St. NichoUts. This Hospital, which was for a select
number of both sexes, was of royal foundation, and established under the
patronage of the Kings of England. According to the Monasticon, William
de Grenfeld, Lord High Chancellor of England, in a royal visitation, July
4th, 1303, ordained certain statutes for its government In the 3rd of
Edward I. (1275), a canicate of land was granted them by the Empress
Maud, upon condition that the brethren of the said Priory or Hospital should
find all lepers, who might visit them on the vigils of the Apostles St Peter
Upper Egypt, about the year 305. The first mention said to be in history of the
foundation of a nunnery, is that founded in 860, near Poictiers, by the sister of St.
Martin. King Ealbad established the first institation of the kind in England, at Folk-
stone, in 630.
3 s
498 ANCIENT BELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YORK.
aud St. Paul, with a certain portion of food. At the dissolution the Priory
was valued at £'29. Is. 4d. The church remained parochial till the siege of
York in 1644| when it fell a sacrifice to the ravages of war.
The Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen — commonly called the " Hospital of
St. Mary in Bootham " — was founded in that part of the city called Le Hone
utjre — ^afberwards denominated the Horse Fair — (the district extending north
of Bootham) in 1330, by Robert de Pykering, Dean of York, and confirmed
by Archbishop William de Melton, under the following regulations : — " That
there be therein one perpetual chaplain for the master, whose presentation
shall belong to the said Robert de Pykering, for his life, and to his heirs
after his decease. That the said master and his successors being assisted
with two more chaplains, shall daily celebrate divine service therein, for the
souls of Walter, late Archbishop, the said Robert de Pykering, and William
his brother ; and shall competently sustain those two chaplains with victuab
and clothing, and pay to each twenty shillings per annum ; and also sustain
with meat, drink, and clothing, other six old lame priests, not able to minis-
ter, allowing to every one twelve pence a week."
At the same time the church of Stillingfleet was appropriated for the sup-
port of the chaplain, the master, and the charity for ever. There was, how-
ever, a sum reserved for the vicar of the church, who was to be appointed by
the master and brethren of the Hospital. At the dissolution, this Hospital,
which was valued at £37. per annum in the gross, and at £11. 6s. 8d. clear,
was annexed to the Dean and Chapter of York. In 1557 that body granted
unto Thomas Luither, a priest, and a brother of the dissolved Hospital, an
annual payment of £4. 13s. 4d., on condition that he should resign all daim
to the said institution. By a grant from Philip and Mary, the King and
Queen of England, the lands of the Hospital were devoted to the establish-
ment and maintenance of a free grammar school ; and agreeably to the tenor
of that royal ordinance, the Dean and Chapter founded the one which was
formerly held in the desecrated chxirch of St Andrew, afterwards in the
building now used as a School of Design, but finally removed to the edifice
now known as St. Peter's School, Bootham.
Besides the great Hospital of Bootham, here was another dedicated to St.
Mary, and founded by John Gyseburgh, precentor of York, for two chaplains,
before the year 1481. This was valued at its suppression in 1535, at £9.
6s. 8d. per annum.
The Spittal, or Hospital of St, AntJiony, anciently stood at the end of Gilly-
gate, next to Horse Fair. It was fotlnded about the year 1440, but its
ANCIENT REUOIOt'S HOUSES OF YOKK. 499
hiatorj is little known. In Hargrove^s History of York,* is an engraving of
a large and veiy curious mutilated piece of sculpture, which was taken out
of the wall of a field near the site of this old Hospital, ahout forty years ago.
It is supposed to represent the ceremonials of a religious sacrifice or tow,
there heing an altar, a priest in flowing drapery, and a man leading out of a
stable a large animal, looking less like an ox than a horse. It is of Roman
origin, and of high antiquity.
Dr. Tanner, in his NotUia Monastica, says that a Hospital stood "in
Markgate in suburb Ebor;*' but of which we have not found any further
particulars ; and there was a Hospital at an early period within Layerthorpe
Postern, which was founded by Sir Francis Bigod, who had a fine mansion
at the same place. There are now no remains of the house or Hospital.
Mr. Wellbeloved thinks the site of Bigod's Hospital is clearly indicated by
the stone wall opposite to the church of St. Cuthbert.
St. Anthony's Hospital is stated by Leland to have been founded for the
brethren of St. Anthony by Sir John Langton, knt, who served the office of
Mayor of York nine times, the last of which was in 1363. After the disso-
lution of the religious houses, it fell into the hands of a fraternity called the
Guild of 8t, Anthony, consisting of a Master and eight keepers, who gave a
feast every third year, probably out of the remaining revenues of the old
Hospital ; but in 1625 the feast was discontinued, and the fellowship dis-
solved. The brethren of this mendicant Hospital of St. Anthony used to
solicit alms in the city and neighbourhood, and as they were held in much
esteem they were generally well rewarded. For a long time it was a custom
with the citizens when a sow pigged, to have one set apart and well &tted
for the brethren of St. Anthony ; and hence came the proverb " As fat as an
Anthony pig." in later times, the fraternity that succeeded the original
brotherhood was commonly denominated ** Tantony pigs." The legendary
story of St. Anthony, of Padua, and his pig, says Drake, is represented in
one of the vrindows of the church of St. Saviour.
The building occupied by the brethren of St. Anthony, and afterwards by
the above-mentioned fraternity, is called St. Anthony's Hall, and is situated
in Peasholme Green. This ancient structure is mentioned under the same
name in a beautiful manuscript terrier, in the possession of the Rev. J.
Crofts, Rector of the neighbouring church of St. Saviour, as forming a
boundary of the parish so early as 1362 ; and from this it may be inferred
that if Sir John Langton was the founder of the Hospital, he must have
♦ Vol. ii., p. 574.
500 ANCIENT RELIGIOUS HOUSES OF TOBK.
founded it some years before he filled the ciyic chair of York for the niath
time, viz., in 1363, as the hall was, in the preceding year, sufficiendj well
known to be mentioned as the boundary of two or three parishes. In 1646
the whole of the building was repaired and re-edified. It is a large venerable
looking pile, the lower part being of stone, and the upper of brick. Each
end of the hall presents three gables, with large Venetian windows at each
end. The building is a mixture of two styles of architecture — ^the Pointed
and pseudo-Roman — and has a very curious appearance. The entrance door
faces Peasholme Green, and over it is a circular window. After the building
was repaired in 1640, one part of it was converted to the purposes of a House
of Correction for lesser criminals ; and it so continued until a building for
that purpose was erected on Toft Groen, which in its turn gave way to the
prison near Bailo Hill. St. Anthony's Hall is now oocupied by the scholars
of a charitable institution called the Blue Coat boys' school. On the left of
the entrance hall arc the apartments of the master. A wide staircase leads
to the upper story, where the different tradesmen's companies of York used
to hold their general meetings. The several arms of each of them yet re-
main, but the rooms are now occupied by the Blue Coat boys.
The other ancient Hospitals of the city of York, of which little is known,
are the HospiUd of St. Catherine, Micklegate, near to St. Nicholas's church,
now destroyed ; the Hospital of St. John aiid Our Lady, at Foss Bridge ; the
Spital of St. Loy, at the east end of Monk Bridge; Fishergate Spital or
Hospital y near the church of St. Helen, now destroyed ; and three Maiaon
Dims, one on the old Quse Bridge, another near Fishergate Postern, and the
third, which belonged to the shoemakers, in Walmgate.
Sir Richard dc York founded an Hospital in Micklegate, but it was never
finished. The Hospitals still standing, which have been converted into
regular Almshomes, will be noticed at subsequent pages.
(ttttt.ds. — Torre mentions that a guild or fraternity of St. Mary and St.
Martin the (^oifessor was established on Peaseholme Green, in the parish of
St. ("Juthhcrt; and says that the brethren and sisters were authorized to
causo divine service to bo celebrated in the parish chuix;h by one chaplain,
suhmiMa voce. On the Q8th of January, 1452, a commission was issued U»
John, Bishop of Philippi, X/a consecrate the chapel of the said fraternity, and
the principal altar of the same erected within the church of St. Cuthbert.
In the yard of the George Inn, Conoy Street, may be traced the remains
of strong stone walls, which tradition informs us were part of the religious
house of the ancient Guild of St. George, in York. This fraternity was after-
wards united to the Guild of St. Christophrr.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK, 601
^t George's Close, adjoining the entrance to the New Walk, is the site
of a religious house called St. George's Chapel. Here was anciently a guild
or fraternity established, termed The Fellowship of St. George, which was sup-
pressed at the general dissolution. A small arched stone doorway facing
the high road still remains, surmounted with a shield charged with the cross
of St George.
There was an ancient fraternity, called the GtUld of Corpus Chrhti, in
connexion with the Hospital of St. Thomas, the particulars of which will
be found in the account of that institution at a subsequent page.
The Guild of St. Christopher possessed the site now occupied by the Guild
Hall and Mansion House. The chapel of the Guild stood next the street,
and was not pulled down until the present Mansion House was commenced
in 1725. In 1682 it was occupied by Henry Giles, an eminent artist, who
painted the great west window of the Minster, and another in University
College, Oxford, in 1687. It afterwards became the Cross Keys Inn, and is
now superseded by the Mansion House.
Previous to the Reformation^ when the population of York and its suburbs
could not be more than 20,000, there were as many more places of worship
there as at present exists, with its population of 40,000. At that time, ac-
cording to Drake, there were forty- two parish churches, three or four famous
monasteries, two priories, a nunnery, and a religious college, besides seven-
teen private chapels and eighteen hospitals, " all of which had reigned in
plenty and abundance for several ages." These together make a total of
seventy-five religious edifices. "Everybody must allow," says the same
writer, *' that this city was as remarkable for churches and houses of religion
as most in the kingdom." Eighteen parish churches, all the chapels (with
one exception) and religious houses have been destroyed, so that only twenty-
three of the churches and one chapel now remain ; besides two churches
recently erected. The sudden suppression of the religious houses caused a
terrible re-action throughout the kingdom, and perhaps the change was felt
as severely in York as in any other part of England. Soon after the begin-
ning of the Reformation several of the churches of York were deemed super-
fluous, and an Act was accordingly granted in the first year of the reign of
Edward VT. (1547) for pulling them down, and uniting the parishes to which
602
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
thej belonged to other parishes in the city. The preamble of the Act recites
that " Whereas in the city of York and suburbs thereof, are many parish
churches which heretofore the same being well inhabited and replenished with
people, were good and honest liyings for learned incumbents, by reason of the
priyy tithes of the rich merchants, and of the offerings of a great multitude,
which livings be now so much decayed by the ruin and decay of the said city,
and of the trade and merchandize there, that the revenues and profits of
divers of the said benefices are at this present not above the clear yearly
value of £1. 6s. 8d."
In pursuance of this Act, several of the churches were pulled down, but it
was not put in full force till the d8th year of Elizabeth (1685), when the
parishes were united in their present order.
The following table shows the number of parishes in the city, together
with the value of each living in the Eiug s Books,* as well as the present net
value. For the population of the respective parishes see a subsequent page.
PARISHES.
-united
-united
All Saints, North Street
All Saints, Pavement, with . . . . \ „^;x^ j f
St. Peter the Little f ^^^"^ ^
St. Crux
St. Cuthbert with )
St. Helen on the Walls, and ....
All Saints, in Peasholme
St. Dennis, in Walmgato, with . . 1 ynjtg j
St. George and Nabum
St. Olave, with
St. Giles
St. Helen, St. Helen's Square.
St. John, Micklegato
St Lawrence, with
St. Nicholas
St. Margaret, Walmgate, with
St. Peter-le- Willows
St. Martin, Coney Street
St. Martin, Micklegate, with .... I^qJ*^ f
St. Gregory j \
St Maiy, Bishophill Senior
united
-united
LtTiaga.
Discharged Rectory. .
Do., do. 1
Disch. Vicarage . . J
Discharged Rectory. .
Do. do.
Do.
do.
Do.
do.
Do.
do.
Do.
do.
1
Perpetual Curacy. . . .
Discharged Vicarage
Perpetual Curacy. . . .
Discharged Vicarage
Discharged Rectory *)
Do. do. J
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
1
Vtluein
tlM
King'a Books.
£, s. d,
4 7 II
0 16 101
6 16 6
5 10 10
1
4 0 10
4 5 5
6 10
10 0 I
4 0 9^
4 0 0
5 16 3
5 0 10
PrcMttt
Net
T
107
100
94
150
138
103
209
83
124
97
H^
2S6
• In the 26th of Henry Vm. (1535) an Act was passed conferring on the Crown the
first fruits of all benefices, and also one yearly rent or pension amounting to the value
of the tenth part of the profit of every benefice. Pursuant to this Act, Commissioners
were appointed, and the celebrated Valor EceUHatHcus, or Liher Regit, (King's Books),
is the return made by them on the matters mentioned in the statute.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORE.
503
PARISHES.
united
I
St. Mary, Bishophill Junior, ^ith '
Upper Poppleton, and
Copmanthorpe
St Mary, Castlegate
it Sd^!^."^!^T.\^^. : : : : } ^^^^^ {
St. Michael, Spurriergate
St. Sampson
St. Saviour, with 1 united
St. Andrew J
Holy Trinity, King's Sq., or Christ Church
Holy Trinity, Micklegate
Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, with '
St. John del Pike, and
St. Maurice, without Monk Bar. .
New District Churches : —
St. Paul, Holdgate Road
St. Thomas, Lowther Street, Groves
(
-united
Discharged Vicarage
Perpetual Curacy. . . .
Chapel of Ease
Discharged Rectory . .
Perpetual Curacy. . . .
Discharged Rectory . .
Do. do.
Perpetual Curacy ....
Discharged Rectory. .
Discharged Vicarage
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Perpetual Curacy. . . .
Do. do.
Value in
the
King'e Books.
10
t. d.
0 0
2
8 6i
0 10
12 1
2
8
5
6 8
8
0 0
12
4 9t
Present
Net
Income
"ST
144
120
150
01
109
173
87
93
138
We now proceed to describe the churches of the citj in the order in which
they are laid down in the foregoing table. The ages of the ancient edifices
are unknown, but the majority appear to have been built between the 12th
and 16th centuries.
All Saints Church, North Street, — This is an ancient Discharged Rec-
tory, formerly belonging to the Priory of Holy Trinity, Micklegate, to which
it was given by Ralph de Paganel, and the grant was confirmed by William
the Conqueror, and by the bull of Pope Alexander U. There were formerly
many chantries and obits in this church, several original grants of which are
still preserved among the records of the city. The benefice is now in the
patronage of the Crown, and incumbency of the Rev. Robert Whytehead.
The Edifice consists of three spacious aisles, with a tower and spire in-
cluded in the plan at the west end. The tower contains three bells, and the
height of the spire is ISO feet. Parts of the church and the south doorway
are Early English, some of the windows are Decorated, and the roofs and
spire, and most of the windows, are Perpendicular. The walls are in a great
measure composed of grit, Roman bricks, and pebbles. In the west end of
the church are three pointed arched windows of three lights each. The
tower, which appears to be of an earlier date than the body of the church, is
of three stories, £nished with a pierced battlement, and pinnacles at the
angles. The buttresses of the tower end with grotesque gargoyles, and the
whole is surmounted with an elegant octagonal spire. In the north side of
604 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
the church, which presents four unequal divisions, made by strong buttresses,
are square-headed windows, with cinqucfoil heads. The east end eidiibits
three windows of the latter part of the 14th century, each of three lights.
The gables of the nave and aisles rake to an apex. In the south side, which
is similar to the north, there is a porch of brick, apparently of the latter part
of the 17th century. The interior is interesting ;* the nave is much nar-
rower than the aisles, and is divided from the latter by pointed arches
springing from small circular columns, with square capitals. The chancel
or sanctuary is formed out of the nave. The altar piece is of oak, with pi-
lasters of the Ionic order, and gilt capitals. There is an old misericord and
a piscina in the sanctuary. About one half of the ceiling of the church (that
towards the east) is in panels, and is particularly interesting to the antiquary
from a fine series of sculptures, with which the corbels and bosses are adorned.
These carvings represent angels playing on musical instruments, grotesque
heads, &c. The roofs of the western half of the edifice is in plain plaster,
but waggon-headed. The pulpit of carved oak is sexagonal, with a full-length
figure painted on each side, and it bears the date of 1675. On the floor are
several crosses flory, and in the south wall are the mutilated remains of a
Roman sepulchral monument. The font is an ancient octagonal basin. The
ancient stained glass in the windows is particularly interesting. Drake says
that in his time the painted glass here was in a better state of preservation
than in any other church in the city. The three windows at the east end
have been repaired by Wailes, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The one above the
communion table has in the centre light a representation of St. Anne teaching
the Blessed Virgin to read ; and in the other lights, St. John the Baptist and
St. Christopher carrying Our Saviour. These three subjects are all sur-
mounted by similar canopies. But the most interesting windows in the
church are the two easternmost in the north aisle. The subjects of one of
them are the corporal works of mercy — feeding and giving drink to the
hungry and thirsty, clothing the naked, visiting the sick, &c, ; and the other
window, which is very curious indeed, though much mutilated, seems to de-
scribe the fifteen days of the Last Judgment, as Venerable Bede has written
of them.
* Previous to the Beformation there were no pews in parish churches, the chief
fiimilies having moveahle seats, as is still the cnstom in continental churches. During
the reign of Elizabeth and her sncoessors, when long sermons were eonaidfired ne-
cessaiy, the laity began to feel the inconvenience of having no fixed sitting places ; and
as architectural display and taste had now disappeared, atilitarianism found an easy
admittance. The nobility, gentry, and freeholders, appear to have erected pews at their
own private expense for the use of themselves, their heirs, and assignB for ever.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 506
1. — The first subject is the extraordinary inundation of the sea. The
legend is all but gone.
2. — The corresponding ebb of the sea. The legend is
Ye sdconde day ye see sail be
So lawe, as all men sail yt see.
3. — The foflowing day reduces it to its original level.
Ye i^ day yt sail be plain,
And stand as yt was, again.
4. — The day after we have the fishes and sea monsters leaving their
native element, and coming forth upon the earth ; but the lines are gone.
5.— ^The sea is represented on fire.
Ye V day ye see sail bryn,
And all the watiys that may bin.
6. — On the sixth day the trees are on fire, and their fruit is dropping ; but
the legend is unintelligible.
7. — On the seventh day a general earthquake.
Ye seventh day houses men tall,
Castles and towers and ilka wall.
8 — On the eighth day the rocks are consumed.
Ye viy day roches and stanes,
Sail bryn togeder all at anes.
9. — The events of the ninth day are entirely effaced.
10. — On the tenth day nothing is to be seen but earth and sky ; the
legend is
The tende day for heaven,
Erthe sail be plain and even.
Meaning the mountains shall be levelled and the valleys filled up.
11. — Two men and two women with a priest in an attitude of prayer.
Ye zi day sail men come out
Of their graves, and wende abowte.
13. — Three sarcophagi or cojQ&ns full of bones coming together.
Ye jjj day banes dede saU,
Togeder at anes ryse aU.
18. — On the thirteenth day great stars fall from heaven.
The xiy day sitthe sail,
Sterres and the Heaven Ml.
3 T
506 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
0
14. — A tomb, with a man and woman side bj side on its summit, three
mourners bending over them, and death with his dart at the foot.
The xIt day all that lives than,
Sail die, bathe childe, man, and woman.
15. — ^And then follows the final consummation of all things.
«
The XT day this sail betyde,
The world sail bryn on eyeiy side.
In the tracery of this window are demons conyejing the souls of the wicked
to punishment, and angels carrying the faithful into Abraham's bosom.*
A singular custom still prevails in this parish, on Ascension Day, the time
of the annual perambulation of the boundaries. The lads of the parish pro-
vide themselves with bundles of sedge, and while the clerk is inscribing the
boundary at the specified places, they strike his legs below the knee with
their bundles. The place nearest the clerk, or that which gives the best
chance of exercising this popular prerogative, is eagerly contended for.
All Saints Church, Pavement. — ^This church, which is commonly called
AU Hallaws, stands partly in High Ousigate, but chiefly in the Pavement.
It is an ancient Discharged Rectory, and before the Conquest, according to
Domesday, it belonged to the Prior and Convent of Durham. By an old
grant to Fountains Abbey, the Rector of this church is styled " Rector ec-
clesiee omnium sanctorum in Usegata." At the Reformation it reverted to
the Crown, and the Rev. George Trevor, M.A., is the present incumbent.
The Fabric is handsome, and, according to Drake, its north side was almost
whoUy built out of the ruins of Eboracum ; but the whole structure under-
went a complete restoration in 1835 ; and in 1837 the tower was rebuilt after
the same design as before. The edifice is in the Perpendicular style of archi-
tecture, and is chiefly remarkable for its exquisite octagonal lantern steeple,
which is a beautiful piece of architecture, and forms a very picturesque object
when seen at a little distance from the city. Tradition says that when the
Forest of Galtres extended northward of the city as far as Easingwold, it was a
nightly custom to suspend a large lamp in the centre of the steeple, as a
guide to travellers on that then difficult road. In Drake*s time the hook or
pulley on which the lamp or lantern hung was still preserved. In 1694 this
church narrowly escaped destruction by fire ; most of the buildings near it in
• See the Hierologuty or the Church Tourists, by Bev. J. M. Neale. Bxplanationt of
the old atyle of $pelUng. Ye means the; SaU, ahaU; Lawe, low; Yt, t(; Bryn, tmm;
Hon, mutt; Ilka, every; Boches, rocks; Stanes, etonee; Anes, once; Wende, troUb;
Banes, bonei; Dede, dead; Than, then; Betyde, happen.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOBK. 607
Ousegate were burnt down, which, observes Drake, was the occasion when so
many handsome houses were erected in that street. Part of the present
burial ground was formerly used as a herb and fish market ; but in 1782 the
church-yard was enlarged, and the chancel being much out of repair, was
taken down, and the ground on which it stood was applied to enlarge the
market-place ; in consequence of which the Corporation contributed £100.
towards rebuilding the east wall. The parts of the church are a nave and
side aisles, with a square tower, in which are three bells at the west end.
The tower is three stories in height, and is finished with a cornice and pa-
rapet. In the west tace of the lower story, between two buttresses of four
gradations, is a large window of five lights ; the second story is blank, and
the third has a depressed arched window of three lights in each side. Each
of the eight sides of the lantern steeple has a window almost the breadth
and nearly the height of the structure ; at every angle is a buttress of four
gradations, terminating in a gargoyle and crocketed pinnacle ; and the top
is finished by an open battlement and pinnacles. The whole structure
has a most airy and elegant appearance. The west ends of the aisles have
windows of three lights, and the roofs of both rake up to the church with
a plain coping. Each of the aisle windows are of three lights ; and in each
aisle is a pointed arched doorway. In the clerestory are four square-headed
windows, of three lights. The aisles are finished with a plain, and the nave
terminates in an embattled parapet, with five crocketed pinnaclqs on each
side. The east end of the church is made into three divisions by buttresses ;
in the centre is a pointed window of three lights, and in each aisle is a similar
window of two lights. The interior is very neat ; the body of the church is
divided from the aisles by five pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns.
The lower story of the tower opens into the nave, shewing the western win-
dow. The pulpit, which is octagonal, is ornamented with much excellent
carving and gilding ; and the sounding board bears the date of 1634. The
church was neatly re-pewed a few years ago, partly by subscription. At the
west end are very neat stalls for the churchwardens of the united parishes,
having a glazed frame-work attached, to protect these officials from draughts
of wind between the two doors.
The lessons are read from a handsomely carved and gilded wooden eagle.
The organ was first erected in 1701 ; and the new and elegant octagonal font
is the gift of the Rev. Mr. Hunt, a late curate of this parish. The minister
and churchwardens possess property worth about £300. a year for the main-
tenance of the edifice. The monuments are not very numerous ; amongst
them is a neat sarcophagus, inscribed to James Saunders, Esq., Alderman
oOR ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
and Lord Mayor of York, 1818, who died in 1896, aged 56 years; and a
neat tablet to Tate Wilkinson, Esq., original patentee, and thirty-four years
manager of the Theatre Royal, York. The inscription states that he died
in 1803, in his 68 rd year, and that his body lies buried in the north aisle of
this church. There is a neat sarcophagus to the memory of Samuel Wood-
head, who died in 18B4, aged 53 ; and also tablets commemorative of Captain
Thomas Prickett, William Sowerby, and deceased members of the families
of Etty, Frobisher, and Wyvill.
The Church of St. Peter, and for the sake of distinction called " Eccle-
si4B Petri Parvi, or St. Peter the Little, stood on the east side of Peter Lane,
a little west of High Ousegate. It was an ancient Rectory, under the
patronage of the monks of Durham ; but having fallen a sacrifice to the des-
tructive events which at various times have laid waste this city, the churchy
together with the parish, was united to All Hallows in 1585.
The Church of St. Crux, or Holy Cros$, vulgarly called Cross Ckurch^
stands at the north end of the Pavement, and was originally built in the time
of Edward the Confessor. At the time of the Domesday Survey, it and two
stalls in the Butchery or Shambles belonged to the Earl of Morton ; and the
church was afterwards given by Nigell Fossard* Lord of Doncaster, to the
Abbey of St. Mary at York. It appears to have been rebuilt in 1424, as a
commission, dated September 6th, in that year, was directed to WUliam,
Bishop of Dromore, commanding him to consecrate the building. In 1840
this church was greatly improved externally by the removal of projections,
and the erection of iron palisades. The living is a Discharged Rectory, and
at the dissolution of religious houses, the patronage came to the Crown.
The present Rector is the Rev. Joseph Crosby. There were formeriy five
chantries in this chui-ch. The Fabric is composed of three aisles, with a
tower at the south-west angle of the west end ; its general style is Perpen-
dicular, the pillars, however, are Decorated, and the tower is Italian. The
latter appendage contains two bolls, and is an elegant brick structure, witli
stone dressings, the foundation stone of which w*as laid on the 1st of April,
1697. The lower part is of stone ; in the two upper stories are Venetian
windows, and at the angles are square buttresses, with Tuscan capitals. At
the top are vases at the angles, and the whole is encompassed with a neat
railing, within which is a hemispherical dome, finished with a cross aud
weathercock. This tower, which is ninety feet high, declines considerably
from the perpendicular towaitls the west, which gives it an awkward appear-
ance. The west end of the church, which does not range with the tower from
a tortuosity in the street, is of brick, and has a large Venetian window, with
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORK. 609
stone dressings. The south side of the church, bounding the Pavoment, is
made into six divisions by buttresses, containing a pointed doorway, and five
large pointed windows of three lights, with cinquefbil heads and Perpen-
dicular tracery. The clerestory of the nave and chancel, which rises above
the aisles, has six depressed arched-headed windows of four lights. The
east end of the church, abutting on Fossgate, is made into three divi-
sions by buttresses. In the centre is a large window of six lights, with a
transom ; and on each side is one of three lights.
The north side is similar to the south, except that it is only in four divi-
sions. The interior is spacious and elegant. The nave and chancel, which
are united, are divided from the aisles by seven arches, vanishing into square
piers, the mouldings or hollows of the arches being continued to the bases,
which are octagonal ; and each arch has an outer moulding, which rests on
corbals, representing heads of men and women. The clerestory is plain, and
the roofs of the nave and aisles are flat, and panelled with bosses at the
intersections. The altar piece is of oak, with Corinthian pilasters. The
pulpit and sounding board are octagonal, as is also the font, which is very
large. The monuments in the church are numerous. Sir Thomas Herbert,
the celebrated traveller, is buried here ; also the body of the Earl of Northum-
berland, who was beheaded in 1573. (See page 209.) On the south side of
the communion table is an altar tomb, with a large recess behind, over the
graves of Sir Robert Watter, Knt, Alderman, thrice Lord Mayor of this city,
founder of the Hospital for poor women, in St. George Street, and a benefactor
to this church, who died in 1612 ; and of his wife Maigaret, who died in
1608. The interior of the recess is filled with fancy work, with statues of .
Faith and Prudence, and in the centre is an inscription. On the table
beneath lie full length effigies of the Knight, dressed in a scarlet robe, red
cap, and ruff, and his lady in a full gown and ruff. Near this monument is
an ancient lectern, enriched with niches, &c., and chained to it is a book
entitled, " A repUe vnto M. Hardinge's ansvveare, Impiynted at London, in
Pleete streate, Henry Wykes, 1566." Beneath is written 1583, which is
supposed to be the date of purchasing it. In the north aisle is a handsome
sarcophagus, with a medallion bust of the deceased, to Sir Tancred Robinson,
twice Lord Mayor of York, who died in 1754, aged 68 ; and in the south
aisle is a neat sarcophagus to T. Bowes, apothecary, who served the office of
Lord Mayor in 1761, and died in 1777, in his second mayoralty. Here is
also a neat pyramidal tablet, with a basso relievo profile, to H. Waite, Esq.,
who died in 1780. On the south side of the church formerly was part of
the parish burying ground, extending to a row of houses the whole length of
510 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORK.
the church, and forming a very narrow lane called Hosier Lane. In 1771
the Corporation purchased one side of this lane to improve the street
The houses were accordingly taken down, the cellars filled up, and the
ground on which thej stood, together with the church-yard on that side,
was flagged and added to the street This broad causeway was long used as a
poultry market, and known by the name of Ooose Flags, The burying ground
on the north side was parcelled out to those who had houses adjoining,
and a sum of money was raised by that means with which the parishioners
purchased a piece of ground in Hungate, as a place of interment There
was formerly another narrow lane at the east end of this church, called
Whipmawhopmagate. (See page 359.)
St. Cuthbert's Church, Peaseholme Qreen, — An ancient Discharged Rec-
tory, it being a parish church, under the patronage of William de Percy at
the time of the Conquest It afterwards belonged to the Prior and CouTent
of the Holy Trinity in this city ; and at the dissolution the patronage became
vested in the Crown. In 1585 it had the parish churches of St Helen-on-
the- Walls ; St. Mary extra Layerthorpe ; and All Saints on Peaseholme
Green, united to it. The present Rector is the Rev. Thomas Henry Yoike.
The site of this church is particularly remarkable for the discovery of Roman
antiquities. (See page 203.) The Structure of the church, which is neat,
and has a much fresher appearance than most of the churches in York, is in
the later Perpendicular stylo, and consists of a body without aisles, and a weU
proportioned square tower of three stories at the west end. The latter appen-
dage contains two bells, and is finished with gargoyles and battlements.
The south side of the church is made into five divisions by neat buttresses,
and exhibits a brick porch and four square-headed windows. The north side
is in three divisions, and has a pointed doorway and square-headed windows.
The east end is blank, except on the north side, where is a pointed window
of three lights ; the place of the other windows being occupied by two large
buttresses of brick. On the north side is a small brick vestry. The interior
is of one space, with a waggon-head ceiling, adorned with grotesque bosses,
and supported on similar corbals at the sides. The altar piece consists of
four Corinthian pilasters, supporting a broken angular pediment, in which
are the Royal Arms of Queen Anne, with the date of 1703, probably the date
of the last repair of the church. The pulpit is hexagonal, and the font, which
is octagonal, is new. In the windows are some remains of stained glass,
particularly the Royal Arms of Edward III. There are no monuments
worthy of notice. Near the entrance is an inscription in memory of William
Bowes, Lord Mayor, a.d. 1416. There was anciently an altar in this church
belonging to the Guild of St Mary and St Martin the Confessor.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 611
Near the walls of the city, in the neighbourhood of Aldwark, a little to
the north west of Merchant Tailor's Hall, is supposed to have stood the
Church of St. Helen on the Walls,* which was anciently a Rectory of medi-
eties, under the patronise of the fiaEnilies of Graunt or Grant, Salvaine, and
Langton, to the latter of whom in process of time fell the sole presentation.
It was united to the church of St. Cuthbert, as above mentioned, and no
remains of the buildings are now visible. The ancient parish Church of
Layerthorpe, dedicated to St. Mary, was a Rectory, and was united to St.
Cuthbert's. The remains of this building, which stood without the Postern,
on the hiU on the right hand, have also disappeared in toto.
The Church of AU Saints, or All Hallows, of which there are now no re-
mains, stood in the centre of Peasholme Green. Its foundations were dis-
covered in erecting the weighing machine. It was a Rectory in the gift of
the families that claimed the patronage of St. Helen's Church, and was
united with St. Cuthbert's, as before stated, in 1585.
Church of St. Dennis, or D yon is, Walmgate. — Tradition represents this
church to have been originally a Jewish Synagogue, or Tabernacle, but there
seems to be no ground for the opinion. It is an ancient Discharged Rectory,
and before the Reformation it formed part of the possessions of the Hospital
of St. Leonard in this city. At the dissolution it came to the Crown, and
since the year 1585, when the church of St. George was united to it, the
patronage has been alternately in the Crown, and the family of Palmes, of
Nabum. St Dennis's was anciently the parish church of the Percys, Earls
of Northumberland, whose residence in the city stood opposite to it, and was
called Percy's Inn. (See page 346.) This church was formerly a spacious
handsome structure, with a neat and lofty spire in the midst of it. At the
siege of 1644 this spire was perforated by a cannon ball from the Parliament-
arian batteries : about sixty years after that accident it was greatly damaged
by lightning, and in 1778 it suffered severely from, a high wind. The
• Camden mentions that the ashes of the Roman Emperor Constantias Chloros, who
died in York about the year 806, were certainly deposited in this city, and that the place
of their interment (a yanlted tomb, within a little chapel) was found soon after the
Keformation. The sepulchre thus spoken of by this learned antiquary, is said to have
been when the church of St. Helen stood in Aldwark ; and it is highly probable that Con-
stantine the Great, who became a convert to Christiamty, caused a Christian church to be
built over the place where his fiBtther's ashes were deposited. This idea is strengthened
by the name of his mother being connected with the church, and by the vicinity of this
building to the imperial palace. Camden adds a marvellous story of a lamp having been
found burning in the tomb, which was soon extinguished by the communication of the
air, and this too on the authority of several intelligent inhabitants of the city.
512 ECCLESIA6TICAI, EDIFICEti OF YORK.
church was much reduced, by taking down the west end, in 1798, in con-
sequence of the foundation being injured by a laige and deep drain passing
too near it, which was intended to draw the water from the Foss Ishinds.
At the same time the spire was taken down, and a square tower substituted.
The reduction which the church underwent at that time rendered what was
originally the length of the church shorter than its breadth ; and hence the
edifice has a novel and singular appearance. In 1847 the tower was rebuilt,
the church repewed, and the whole fabric substantially repaired. The pre-
sent liector is the Bev. James Sabben. The Edifice, which is dedicated to
St. Dennis, a French Saint, consists only of the ancient chancel and its
aisles, with a west tower. The latter is three stories high, embattled, and
contains two bells, The south side of the church is made into three divisions,
by buttresses ; in the first from the west of which is a beautiful arched door-
way of five enriched mouldings, resting on piers. This doorway was formerly
approached by an elegant Anglo-Saxon porch, which stood prior to the re-
duction of the church, and which was in some degree similar to the much-
admired one at St. Margaret*8 Church. In the remaining divisions, as well
as on the north side, are pointed windows of three lights. The east end of
the chancd rises considerably above the aisles, but each of the roo£s rises to
an apex. The east end is made into separate divisions, by buttresses ; in
the centre division is a depressed headed window of five lights, above which
is a clock placed there in 1818 ; and in the aisles are pointed windows, one
of four and the other of five lights. The interior has an equally strange
appearance with the exterior, but it is neatly fitted up. The lower story of the
tower is used as a vestry, and on the second story there is a small gallery.
The aisles are separated from the nave by two laiige pointed arches. The
roof of the nave is flat and panelled, the intersecU<ms being marked by
grotesque figures, shields, Sic. The pulpit is neatly carved, and the font
is octagonal. The windows of this church were once filled with stained
glass. The east window at present exhibits figures of the Crucifixion, the
Blessed Virgin, St John, St Dennis, and an Archbishop. In the south
aisle window are the heads of two female Saints, very beautiful and perfect.
The body of Henry Earl of Northumberland, killed at the battle at Towton,
is buried under a large slab of blue marble (the family vault) in the north
aisle. On the walls on each side of the communion tahle are monuments —
one to the memory of Mrs. Dorothy Hughes, and the other to B. W. Hotham,
Esq., Sheriff of York, in 1801, who died in 1806, aged 48. The fenner
monument, which has no date, has an antique female figure kneeling, in the
costume of the latter part of the 17th century; and the latter, which is of
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORE. 513
el^ant marble, exhibits at the top a dove descending towards a weeping
figure leaning upon an urn. In the west end of the south aisle is a large
tablet, with a Corinthian pillar on each side, to the memory of Dorothy Wil-
son, spinster, who died in 1717, aged 73, and left a considerable number of
legades for charitable purposes. There was formerly seyeral ancient inscrip-
tions in this church, including one to the memory of Vice-Admiral HolmeSi
a native of York, who died in 1558.
The " Chxjbgh of St. Geobge, Fishergate" which for ecclesiastical pur-
poses is united with the church of St Dennis, stood in the burial ground in
St G^eorge*8 Street. It was a Rectory, originally in the patronage of the
family of Palmes, of Nabum, many of whom are interred here ; that village
being partly in the parish of St George. It was afterwards in the gift of
the Malbyes, of Acaster, and in the reign of Richard 11. it was appropriated
to the Nunnezy of Monkton. The church-yard is an elevated situation, and
in the wall next to Fishergate Postern, is yet remaining a curious mutilated
piece of sculpture, that in all probability is a sepulchral remnant of a lady of
the early ages. Mr. Hargrove tells us that part of the west end of the church
was standing a few years ago, but there are no remains of it now visible.
There was one chantry founded in this church, at the altar of St Mary, for
the soul of Nicholas, son of Hugh de Sutton. This church-yard, which is
now the place of interment for the united parishes of St. Dennis, St. George,
and, until lately, for Nabum, is remarkable as having been the place where
was interred the body of Richard Turpin, the notorious highwayman, who
was tried and convicted for horse stealing, at York Assizes, and executed on
the 7th of April, 1780. '< Tradition asserts," says Allen, " that early on the
morning after the interment, the body was stolen for the purpose of dissec-
tion ; but a mob having assembled on the occasion, it was traced by them to
a garden, whence it was borne in triumph through the streets on four men's
shoulders, replaced in the same grave, and a quantity of slacked lime de-
posited round the body. On the coffin,*' he continues, " was inscribed K T.,
38 ; but he is said to have informed the executioner that he was 83 years of
age." This yard was used as a place of burial for persons dying of the
cholera in 188d. The church or parochial chapel of Nabum is situate
about four miles south of York, on the eastern bank of the river Ouse. The
living is annexed to the Rectory of St Dennis.
St. Olave's Church, MarygaU, — ^This church, which, according to Drake,
is the oldest ecclesiastical foundation in York, except the Cathedral, appears
to have been built by Siward, Earl of Northumbria, and dedicated to St. '
Olave, the Danish King and Martyr. It is recorded in the Saxon Chronicle
3 u
514 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORK.
that Earl Si ward died in 1066, and was buried " within the Minster at Gal-
manho,* which he had ordered to be built and consecrated in the name of
God and St. Clave, to the honour of God and all his saints." In the time of
William II. it was an ancient Rectory in the possession of Alan, Earl of
Bretagnc, to whom it was given by the Conqueror.f Alan gave it with the
four acres of land, on which St. Mary's Abbey afterwards stood, to Stephen
and his monks, who had fled from Whitby, in order that they might settle
here; and for some time it was used as the conventual church. After
the Abbey church was erected, St. Olave's was accounted as a chapel de-
pendent on the monks ; and it is probably on tliis account that no valuation
is put upon the living in the King's Books. During the siege of York in
1644, the old edifice was much shattered in consequence of a battery of guns
having been planted upon its roof — some of the hottest firing having taken
place in this quarter. It was however repaired in the reign of Charles II.,
and afterwards nearly rebuilt in 17^^2-3, the stone for the exterior being
chiefly from the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary, which it adjoins. " One
may easily imagine this church to have been built out of St. Mary's Abbey,"
says Gent, " it is indeed a handsome one, but with little or no marks of an-
tiquity." The same observation is stiU applicable. It exhibits a mixture of
ancient materials and modem workmanship so combined, as to be worthy the
attention of the curious. In this church was formerly a seat for the use of
the Lords President of the North, who usually attended di^dne service here.
The benefice, to wliich the ancient one of St. Giles is united, is a Perpetual
Curacy, in the patronage of Earl de Grey, probably as lessee under the
Crown ; and the present incumbent is the Rev. William Henry Strong.
The Fabric, which is in the late Perpendicular style, consists of a nave,
side aisles, and west tower. The latter appendage contains six bells, and is
surmounted by a parapet and eight sleight pinnacles. The north side of the
church is made into six divisions by buttresses, with gargoyles ending in
crocketed pinnacles. This side of the church has some good windows and a
pointed doorway, over which is a large niche without a statue. The south
side is much plainer. The east window is of four lights, with cinquefoil
heads. The interior is very neat, having been entirely re-furnished a few
years ago, at an expense of about ^300., raised by subscription. The seat^,
which are single with doors, are of Norway oak ; and the pulpit, reading-desk,
altar piece, &c., are all very neat. The east window is filled with stained
glass, and there is a gallery at the west end. The font is modern, and very
* Galinanho was the ancient name of Marygate. f Archbishop Sharp's MS.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 315
good. Against the east end of the north aisle is a handsome marble Uiblct
to Frances Worslej, daughter of Thomas Worsley, Esq., of Hovingham Uall,
who died in 1837, in her 79th year ; another handsome tablet to Anthony
Thorpe, Esq., who died in 1830, aged 72, and Susanna, his widow, who died
in 1837, aged 65 ; and another to David Hussell, Esq., who died in Sep-
tember, 1840, aged 67. In the same aisle are the following : — a splendid
marble monument to the Eyre family ; a tablet to the Rev. Thomas Cripps,
Rector of Cheadle, in Cheshire, who died in 1794, aged 56 ; a plain tablet to
WiUiam Cattell, and his widow Sarah, who died — the former in 1830, aged
56, and the latter in 1842, aged 71 ; and a very neat sarcophagus to com-
memorate David Poole, Esq., who departed this life in 1830, aged 80, and
other members of his family. In the east end of the soutli aisle is an ele-
gandy-carved tablet to William Thornton, architect, who died in 17^1, aged
51 years; and a neat marble tablet to John Dyson (who died in 18^7, aged
7Q), and his two wives. Against the wall of this aisle are handsome tablets
to Mr. George Hutchinson, of Reeth, in this county, who died in 1775, aged
22, and his mother, Elizabeth Hutchinson, who died in .1774; to Charles
Christopher Richard, third son of Francis Beynton llacket, Esq., of Moor
Hall, Warwickshire, who died in his 26th year, in 1849 ; to Alathea, wife of
John Jordon, Esq., Colonel of the 9th Dragoons, who died in 1741, and was
buried here ; and to Jolin Roper, Esq., and Sarah, his wife, the former died
in 1826, aged 69, and the latter in 1835, in her 61st year.
The parish of St, Giles, or St, Etjidim the Abbot, was united to that of St.
Clave in 1585 ; the ancient church of that parish, we are told by Gent, stood
" in St. Giles s Gate, vulgarly called Gillygate." Its exact site is said to be
near the middle of that street, on the north-west side. The parish of St.
Clave is without the walls of the city, in the North Riding of the county, and
Wapentake of Bulmer, and contains the hamlet of Marygate, part of the
township of Clifton, one-third of Heworth, and one-third of RawcUffe.
St. Helen's Church, St. Helens Square, was anciently a Rectory appro-
priated to the Nunnery of Molesby, in Lincolnshire ; and in the reign of
Henry V. a Vicarage was obtained in it At the Reformation the patronage
came to the crown. The present Vicar is the Rev. William Hey. It appears
that there were formerly four churches in York and its suburbs dedicated in
honour of St. Helen, or Helena, the mother of Constantino the Great ; and
tradition states that the one we are now describing stands on the site of a
heathen temple dedicated to the goddess Diana, whose statues usually were
placed where three ways met. This will appear the more probable when we
recollect that in 1770, some Roman foundations were discovered near it.
616 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
From ita awkward situation at the junction of three streets, in the Act passed
in the 1st of Edward VI. (1547), St. Helen's, oommonlj termed in Stonegate,
was suppressed and de&ced, " because it seemed much to deform the dty,
being a great delay to some streets meeting and winding at it" The in-
habitants, however, in the 1st of Queen Maiy (1558), procured an Act of
Pailiament to enable them to re-edify the church, and restore the church-Turd
that extended fi!om it so far as to occupy a great part of the area, in fiimt of
several old cottages, which then stood where the York Tavern (now Harker's
Royal Hotel) was erected in 1770. The ground of the church-yard having
risen to an enormous height by successive interments, it was approached
from the street by an ascent of stone steps, and the entrance into the church
was by a descent of a similar kind. This rendered the passage for carriages
to the Assembly Rooms extremely unpleasant ; and in 1748, the Corporation
gave the parish a plot of ground in Davygate for a place <^ interment, and
levelled and apppropriated the church yard to the public use ; and by some
anomaly of taste or language called it St Helen's Square, notwithstanding
its triangular shape. Prior to these alterations the area bore the opprobrious
name of Cuckold's comer. There were three chantries in this church, one
founded by WiUiam de Grantham, merchant, in 1871 ; another by Ralph de
Hornby, merchant, in 1878; and the third by John de Nasaington, the
period of which is uncertain. The edifice abuts on the space called a tquare,
to which it gives name, and consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles. As
we have seen the whole structure was partly rebuilt, and entirely restored in
the beginning of the reign of Queen Maiy ; its general style is Decorated.
The roof of the nave (at the west end) rises to an apex, on which is a small
octangular lantern, or bell turret, erected about forty years ago, when the old
octagonal steeple was taken down. Each face of this lantern appendage has
a pointed window, and it is finished with a neat pierced battlement The
west fi!ont has buttresses terminating in crocketed pinnacles, and a recessed
pointed arch, beneath which is a very handsome window of four lights.
Under this window is a pointed doorway, the weather cornice resting on
shields. The west end of the south aisle is made into two divisions by but-
tresses, which gives the church a very singular appearance. In them are
pointed windows of three lights, and the battlement, which is continued on
the aisles, is pierced in a very tastefid manner. The west end of the north
aisle is partly built against, and the remainder of the church is totally con-
cealed firom view. In the interior the centre is divided from the aisles by
four pointed arches resting on octagonal columns without bases or captals.
The east window has some stained glass left, representing full length figures
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK. 517
of a King and Qaeen, Bishops, and sereral saints ; and in the windows of
the aisles, are some shields of arms of the familiee of Beauchamp, Fitzhngh,
Peioj, Lucy, and Skirlaw. The roof of the church is ceiled and plain ; in
the west end is a small galleiy, on which stands a small organ. The pulpit
is octagonal, and the altar piece is neat. The old Saxon font, lined with
lead, and ornamented with antique sculpture, is the most curious in the citj.
There is here a small marble tablet to the memory of two maiden sisters,
Barbara and Elizabeth Dayyea, who died in 1765 and 1767, each 08 years
of age. They lived in the reign of Charles n., and the five successive
monarchs. This tablet was erected by their nephew "to perpetuate their
memory, and the singular instance of their longevity and departure in the
same year of their age."
Church of St. John the Evangelist, MickUgate^ formerly called 8t,
Jokn% Ouse Bridge End. — This is a Perpetoal Curacy, appertaining to the
Dean and Chapter of York, and though menticmed in the Liber Regis, has
no value afifixed to the living. The jMresent incumbent is the Rev. Edwin
Fox. The Building consistB of a nave and side aisles, the south side and
east end abutting upon Mioklegate and North Street In 1551 the lofty
steeple of this church was blown down, and has never been rebuilt, but its
place is supplied by an ugly brick turret, very much resembling a pigeon
cote, which greatly disfigures the church. In this excrescence hangs a
peal of six bells, three of which were brought from the ancient church of St.
Nicholas, out oi Walmgate, and hung up here in 1658. There was formeriy
a burial ground, surrounded by a wall, in front of this church ; but at the time
of the improvements about Ouse Bridge, the wall was removed and a portion
of the churchyard was taken into the street. In 1850 the east end was
pulled down, re-built, and straightened, to widen the street^ the north side
was restored with Whitby stone, and the whole church was thoroughly re-
paired. At the same time the church was re-furnished — single seats being
substituted for the old-fiuihioned high pews. The cost of the restoration, re-
parations, &c., was ahout iS900., raised by voluntary contribution, aided by a
grant from the Church Building Society. The architect was Mr. George
Fowler Jones, of York. The edifice is partly in the Decorated and partly in
the Perpendicular styles ; its south side is in five divisions, made by but-
tresses of three gradations. In the first from the west is a small but very
neat porch, and a small square-headed window of two lights ; in each of the
three succeeding divisions is a depressed arched window of three lights, and
in the easternmost division is a similar window of two lights. The finish of
this facade is a string course and battlement, and the buttresses are finished
618 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
with gargoyles and pinnacles. At the east end the roofs of the three aisles
rake to an apex, and are without ornament There are three large windows in
this end. The west front is built against, and the north side of the church is
partly concealed from view. The interior is very neat, three large pointed
arches, springing from octagonal pillars, divide the aisles &om the nave.
The east end of the latter is used as a chancel. The ceiling is flat and
panelled, and the roofs of the aisles, which have a slight rising, are panelled
with bosses of arms, &o. The aisles evidently had formerly a groined roof,
as there are remains of several corbals. The altar piece is plain, the pulpit
sexagonal, and the font is new and good. A portion of the west end of
the north aisle is used as a vestry, but the building of a vestry on the north
side of the church is in contemplation. In the vestry are two curious pewter
flagons, one of which is 17 inches high and 5 inches in diameter, with scroU
work engraved. It is of seven sides, each adorned with a full length figure,
habited in the costume of the middle of the 17th century. The windows
still retain some painted glass, representing the Crucifixion, the Interment,
&c., of our Lord, and the arms of York, Neville, and other families. There
were anciently four chantries in this church. Here lie interred the remains
of Sir Richard Yorke, of York, Knight, who represented this city in six
different Parliaments, and died in 1508. He was Mayor of the Staple at
Calais, and Lord Mayor of this city in 1469 and 1482. On the north side
of the communion table is an altar monument lately inscribed to his memory,
though it is not certain that it was erected for him. " North of the altar,''
says Gent, " is a tomb without any inscription, nor could I learn who was
interred therein ; neither guess, unless of Sir Richard Yorke, depicted in the
windows above it." The modem monuments are not numerous, nor worthy
of particular notice.
Church of St. Lawhence, out of Wiihngate Bar, in the street to which it
gives name. — This was anciently a Rcctoiy belonging to the Dean and
Chapter of York ; it was one of the great farms of that body, and usually
demised to one of the Canons Residentiary, at an annual rent of £9. ISs. 4d.
It is now a peculiar Vicarage in their gift, and in the incumbency of tho
Rev. John Robinson. A chantry was founded here in 1346, by Nicholas
Wartyr. In 1365 the church of St. Michael was united to this church, sub-
ject to a pension of 13s. 4d. per annum, to the Priory and Convent of
Kirkliam ; and in 1685 Archbishop Sandys, with the Mayor and Corporation,
united to it the churches of St. Helen and All Saints, in Fishergate. At the
si^e of York in 1644, the church of St. Lawrence was nearly destroyed, and
it remained in ruins till 1669, when it was repaired partially, but in the year
1817 it was thoroughly restored and enlarged.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 619
The Edifice, which is of mixed styles, consists only of a nave or body, and
a chancel, with a small western tower of three stories. In the west front of
the lower story of the tower is a rude sculpture, representing St. Lawrence
and the gridiron. The windows of the church are small, and of different
shapes, some having pointed arches, others circular, and some square-headed.
On the north side is a beautiful Norman doorway, somewhat resembling those
belonging to the churches of St. Margaret and St. Dennis. The circular
head of this doorway is of four mouldings, the interior one being plain, and
the rest of a scroll or flower pattern. The two outer mouldings rest on
columns ; on the capital of one is sculptured a Sagittarius, and on the other
one the Holy Lamb opposed by a dragon. The interior of the church is
plain. The tower is open to it by a low pointed arch ; the arch between
the nave and chancel is pointed; the ceilings of both the nave and the
chancel are flat, and at the w^est end is a small gallery sustained by tw^o
Tuscan piUars. The font, which is of Purbeck marble, is very curious.
It consists of an octagonal basin, ornamented with bosses of heads, leafage,
and grotesque figures, standing on a pedestal of the same form. In the
tracery of the east window are the family arms of Hesketli — arg. on a
bend «o6. three garbs or; crest, a garb, ar, banded az. — with this motto,
" C*EST La Sevl vertve qvi Donne La Noblesse" ('Tis virtue only that
confers nobility). In the chancel are several neat marble monuments, in-
scribed to the memory of difierent branches of the Yarburgh family, of
Heslington, a neighbouring village, who have a vault in this church. Drake
mentions " two antique statues, which lie on the church-yard wall (of St.
Lawrence's), to the street, in priests* habits, but whether Christian or
pagan, is a doubt." There is no longer a doubt on this point, for it seems
very certain that they have been a portion of a series of statues which once
adorned the church of St. Mary's Abbey, and eight of which are now in the
Yorkshire Museum. The waU upon which they stood in Drake's time has
been superseded by a neat iron palisade, and the two effigies now stand
against the north waU of the church — one on each side of the Norman door-
way. " It is much to be regretted," says the Rev. C. Wellbeloved, " that the
statues, now in the church-yard of St. Lawrence, should be separated from
the other remains of the series of which they were originally a part, and
placed on the sides of a Norman portal, with which they have no proper con-
nection, where they have no meaning, excite no particular interest, are seen
by few, and are exposed to still further injury from the weather."
Against the same waU of this church is fixed a large grit stone, supposed
by some historians to have been a Roman altar, and by others a portion of a
530 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
cross of memoriaL It is without anj inscription. In the course of the past
year (1854), the Archbishop of York consecrated an acre of land as an
enlargement of the burial ground of this church. The cost, about £800.
has been liberallj contributed to by N. E. Tarburgh, Esq., the late, and
Yarburgh Yarburgh, Esq., the present, owner of the HesHngton estate. In
consequence of the enlargement, this burial ground was suffered to remun
open, subject to the conditions noticed at page 396, whilst all the other
church-yards in York were closed during the past year. Against the west
wall of the church-yard is a large monument, to the memory of six children
of the late Mr. Rigg, of this parish, and another person, who were drowned
in the Ouse, near Acomb landing, by their pleasure-boat being run down by
a Tessel in full sail, on the 19th of August, 1830. The epitaph is by James
Montgomery. A stone coffin serves the purpose of a trough to a pump in
the front of this church-yard.
The ancient Chtirck of St, Michael was situated near Walmgate Bar.
It was a Rectory, appropriated to the Prior and Convent of Earkham. In
1365 it was united by the Archbishop of York to the acljoining church and
parish of St. Lawrenoe, the Vicars paying to the convent of Kirkham out of
the tithes the annual sum of 13s. 4d. There are no traces of the edifice
to be seen, and its exact site is unknown ; but the Rev. C. Wellbeloved
says " I am inclined to think, from some information I received from one
of the Ordnance surveyors, that it was near the Bar, on the east side of the
road to Fdford." '
The ancient Church of St. Nicholcu stood in Watlingate (now Lawrence
Street), on the ground adjoining Plantation House and the Tan-yard. It
was originally connected with the Hospital of St Nicholas ; and after the
dissolution of religious houses, it remained parochial imtil the si^e of York
in 1644, when it was destroyed by the Parliamentarians. We learn from
tradition that the soldiers seized the beUs, intending to cast them into can-
non ; but being rescued from them by Lord Fairfax, they were, in 1653,
placed in St John's Church, Micklegate. The magnificent old porch in front
of St Margaret's Church, Walmgate, was brought from this building ; and
the other parts of the ruins were successively removed to repair the roads,
Ac, till the whole completely disappeared. Upon the same road, a little fur-
ther towards HesHngton, at the comer of Edward Street, and opposite
Lamel Hill, formerly stood the Church of St. Edward, which was a Rectory,
under the Archbishops of York, and thus continued till 1585, when it was
united to the church of St Nicholas. Time has destroyed every vestige of
this ancient structure.
FXfJ.F.SIAS'nCAL EDmCFH OF YOUK. 5*21
The Church of St. Helen , in Fisljergate, was situated on the road to Ful-
ford, but its site cannot be exactly ascertained.
Tlie Church of All Saints is supposed to have stood on a part of the present
cattle market, without I*'ishergate Bar. Drake observes that he could not
ascertain where All Saints' was erected, but the many relics of mortality
which were exposed in 1826^ on opening the ground for the new market,
leaves little doubt that it was the site of the above church. All Saints' was
a very ancient Rectory, given by King William 11. to the Abbey of Whitby,
on condition that the monks there should pray for him and his heirs. There
was also another church in Fishei^ate, dedicated to St. Andrew, which was
a Rectory, given to the Priory of Newburgh, by Lord Mowbray.
St. Maboabet s Church, Walmgate. — Walter Fagenulf gave this church
and that of St. Mary, which were conjoined into one Rectory, and which also
stood in this street, to the Hospital of St. Peter or St. Leonard, York, in the
reign of Henry I. At the time of the dissolution the patronage came to the
Crown, where it still remains. The Rev. George Coopland is the present
Rector. In 1672 the steeple of this church fell down, and seriously injured
the roof of the building, which, owing to inability, or unwillingness of the
parish at that period, was not repaired till 1684, when the parishioners were
assisted by a subscription for the work. The roof was then covered with red
tiles, and the square tower was chiefly built with bricks. In 1839 the church
underwent a considerable restoration ; but in 1851*2 the structure, except the
tower, was enlarged and nearly rebuilt. The Edifice is situated in the church-
yard behind the houses on the north side of the street, and the approach from
the street is through a neat pair of iron gates. Its parts are a nave, the east
end of which is used as a chancel, a north aisle, a small chapel on the south
side, now used as a vestry, and a brick tower at the west end. This tower,
which contains three good bells, has stone quoins, and a battlement, with de-
cayed pinnacles at the angles. In one of the three divisions of the south side
of the church, is a beautiful and very celebrated porch, which was brought
here from the church or hospital of St. Nicholas, which formerly stood with-
out Walmgate Bar. This particularly curious doorway, of very early work-
manship, is undoubtedly the most extraordinary specimen of Norman or even
Saxon sculpture and architecture this country can exhibit. It consists of
four united semicircular arches, below and within each other. The top or
outer arch exhibits the twelve signs of the zodiac, with a thirteenth zodiacal
sign, according to the Anglo-Saxon calendar, which continued in use for some
time after the Norman Conquest, each sign being followed by a hieroglyphical
representation of the corresponding month. Beneath the zodiacal signs is a
3 X
5 "24 En LESIASTTrAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
carved lluwer moulding. The second arch comprises twenty-two grotesque
ma<iks; the third, eigliteen hieroglvphical figures; and the fourth, fifteen
figures similar to those on the preceding one. The outer arch is supported
bj curiouslj carved pillars, and the three inner ones rest upon round columns.
Within the porch is a small recess on each side ; and over the door of the
church is a carved arch, also supported by round columns. The roof of the
porch rises to an apex, which is surmounted by a small stone image of the
crucifixion ; and the whole, which is singularly pleasing, is an admirable dis-
play of the taste which prevailed a short time previous to the abandonment
of the Saxon style. This splendid piece of ancient art has excited much
controversary amongst antiquarians, some contending that it belongs to the
loth or 11th century, and others again that it is a Roman work. But what-
ever may be the date of its erection, all have agreed to pronounce it a most
rare and exquisite piece of carving in stone. The recent enlargement and
restoration of this church cost about £1,240., raised by subscription. The
width of the north aisle was increased by six feet; the walls and all the
tracery of the windows were restored, and the latter was glazed with Cathe-
dral glass, with a coloured margin. The church was new roofed, and covered,
together with the splendid porch, with slate, instead of the old red tiles ; the
vestry was new roofed, and a new window inserted in it. The interior was
re-fumished, and tlie gallery at the west end was enlarged and elevated.
This gallery was erected in 1839, at a cost of 500 guineas, of which sum the
present Rector contributed J2200. Previous to the alterations, the cliurcb
accommodated 400 persons, but provision is now made for 540, the additional
sittings being free. The interior of the building has an exceedingly chaste
and elegant appearance, and not the least improvement is the substitution of
neat open seats for the old high pews. The roofs are open, and of stained
pine, and the benches are stained and varnished. The reading desk and
altar rails are new, and in keeping with the other fittings, but the pulpit,
which is sexagonal, is old. The tower is open to the church, and the aisle
is divided from the body of the church by four pointed arches, resting on oc-
tagonal columns, vrithout capitals. The elegant new font is from the chisel
of Mr. William Jackson, of this city, sculptor, and is the gift of Mrs. L. S.
Townsend. It is of Caen stone, and has eight sunk panels, with sacred mo-
nograms and foliage carved therein. A new organ has just been purchased
for this church ; the cost, about JS70., being raised by subscription. At the
chancel end of the nave is a neat tablet to the memory of T. Wilson, Esq.,
an eminent bookseller in this city, who served the office of Sheriff in 1767,
and died in 1780, aged 59 ; and another to S. Wormold, Esq., Lord Mayor
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 5S3
of York in 1809, who died in 1814, aged 60 years. There are several large
trees in the church-yard, which, heing in a state of decay, were removed about
seven years ago, and young trees planted instead of them. The ancient
Church of St, Peter in the WiUowa, which at the time of the union of the
churches in York was united to St. Margaret's, was situated at the west end
of Long Close Lane, near its junction with Walmgate. It was an ancient
Rectory, in the gift of the monastery of Kirkham, and in it was a perpetual
chantry, founded at the altar of St. Mary, but the founder *s name is unknown.
Church of St. Martin the Bishop, Coney Street. — This is sometimes
denominated the church of St. Martin-le-Grand, but for which title there is
not the slightest authority. It W5is a parochial church prior to the Norman
Conquest, for in the Domesday Survey it is noticed that " Gospatrick has the
church of St. Martin, in Conyng Streete." Since that time it was numbered
amongst the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of York ; and in 1331 that
body appointed William de Langtoft, Vicar of the Perpetual Vicarage thereof,
and gave him an adjoining house to dwell in, with other privileges, including
the fruits and obventions of the churches of St. Andrew, St. Stephen, and
St John, in H ungate, and the mediety of St Helen, in Werkdyke ; and, as
dependent on St. Martin's, the churches of St. Michael de Berefride, St. John
ad Pontem Use, and St. Mary, in Layerthorpe. There were two chantiies
here also, for the support of which certain houses were erected in the church-
yard, and their rents paid to the officiating priests. The living is still a
Vicarage, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter, and incumbency of
the Rev. WiUiam Henry Oldfield.
The Fabric, which is a good specimen of late Perpendicular work, is com-
posed of a nave (the east end of which is used as a chancel) and side aisles,
and a handsome square tower at the south west angle. This tower is in
three stories, and has several good windows, with weather cornices resting on
human heads, &c,, and is finished with a handsome battlement pierced with
quatrefoil and trefoil panels ; and at each angle are double buttresses, which
rise to nearly the height of the building, where they are finished by square
shafts terminating in crocketed pinnacles, and secured to the structure by
gargoyles of the most grotesque description. In the tower is a peal of eight
bells, presented by William Thompson, Esq., in 1729. Each bell has a
quaint motto ; for example, the sixth bell gives this piece of excellent advice :
" All you who hear my moumftil sound,
Repent before you lie in ground."
The west end of the nave, which rises to an apex, is of considerable height,
and contains a fine window of five lights, and the same end of the north
524 ECCLESIASTiaiL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
aisle has a similar window of three lights. The south side of the chureb is
made into five divisions by small buttresses of two gradations, from which
rise shafts with gargoyles. The entrance to the church is in the first divi-
sion from the west, and consists of a small porch with a pointed arch, and
pilasters of the Ionic order. This porch appears to be the work of the middle
of the last century. The other divisions on this side contain each a pointed
window of three lights, and the clerestory of the nave and chancel contains
five depressed arched windows of four lights. Both aisle and clerestory
finish with a cornice and plain pampct. The east end abuts on Coney
Street, and is rendered remarkable by a large circular clock, which was
erected by the parish in 1008, and projects into the street. Upon this clock
is the figure of a man holding a quadrant, as if in the act of taking a solar
observation.* This quadrant formerly always pointed to the sun. The east
window, which is handsome, is similar to that in the west end of the nave ;
and the east end of the aisles have each a pointed window of three lights.
Beneath the north aisle window is a square headed doorway, and between
the central and north windows of this end of the church is a small square
niche, which, before the recent restoration, contained a mutilated statue of the
Virgin and Child. The north side of the church being built against has no
windows. In the year 1853 three of the clerestory windows, on the south
side towards the west, were restored, Mr. Aspinall being the builder; and in
1854 the remaining two clerestory windows, together with the whole of the
south side of the church, including the windows and the wall of the east
front, were restored by Mr. Ralph Weatherly, of York, builder, the Messrs.
Atkinson of the same city being the architects. The above mentioned statue
was restored and placed in the niche in the month of January in the present
year, but having been considered by some to be "a most offensive addi-
tion to a Protestant place of worship," it was quickly removed by order of
the Archbishop of York. The cost of the restoration of this church, about
€1,100., was raised partly by subscription, and partly by mor^«^ng the
funds belonging to the parish, The Dean and Chapter contributed towards
the restoration of the chancel end of the edifice. The porch too is about to
be rebuilt. St Martin*s church is now one of the handsomest in the citv.
and its appearance from the river is beautiful. Allen tells us that previous
to the year 1778, there was a considerable quantity of Gothic work on the
buttresses, but that " it being thought desirable to improve the appearance
• The wags of tlio city say that this man stops doTvn from his olovated situation every
tiiiio hv hears the clock strike.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOBK. 695
of that part of the church, it was all torn away hj the ruthless hand of un-
feeling ignorance." The interior of the church is handsome. The body is
divided from the aisles by six pointed arches, supported by octagonal columns.
The roofs are flat, and panelled with bosses of angels, pomegranates, &c,,
enriched with foliage. The church was re-pewcd some eighteen years ago.
The altar piece is neat, and the balusters round the commimion table arc
yeiy elegantly carved. The pulpit is modem. There was formerly sus-
pended before the pulpit an ancient and curious piece of embroidery, highly
ornamented, consisting of a piece of puce coloured velvet with stars of gold,
having in the centre a representation of the Holy Trinity, and on the sides
and end full length effigies of the Apostles, all in good preservation. This
interesting relic, which doubtless at a former period formed a splendid cope
for the ministers of the ancient faith, was presented to the Yorkshire Museum
in 1840. Mr. Allen has no doubt that at the time of the Reformation ** many
scores of equally curious and elegant specimens of the taste and ingenuity of
our forefathers had been burnt to ashes in the streets of York." The font
is octagonal, plain and massy, on a similar stand, with an elegantly carved
cover, having the date of 1717, and the names of the churchwardens of that
year carved round its rim. The organ stands at the west end of the north
aisle. This church was formerly very rich in stained glass. In 1722 the
glass from the great east window, which contained " the history of St.
Athanasius and his Creed," was, according to Gent, removed to the Minster
by order of the Dean. The large west window, which is called St. Martin's
window, exhibits a full length effigy of that saint, with several legends con-
cerning him ; five of the six clerestory windows on one side are also filled
with stained glass, and there are some remains of that beautiful article in
the windows of the aisle. These contain figures of the Blessed Virgin, St.
Geoi^e, St. John of Beverley, St. William, St. Dennis, the four Evangelists,
St. Catherine, Ac, The monuments are pretty numerous. In the wall at
the east end of the south aisle is a curious black marble slab to commemorate
Thomas Colthurst, Esq., of York, who died in June, 1588 ; at the comers of
it are shields in which his crest is repeated. At the east end of the church
is a tablet to the memory of Peter Johnson, Esq., Recorder of this city, who
died in 1706, aged 76. In the nave is a neat slab to Frances Howard,
daughter of F. Howard, Esq., of Corby Castle, Cumberland, who died in
1719, aged 81 ; a tablet to William Dobson, Esq., Lord Mayor of York in
1720, and Elizabeth his wife, the former died in 1749, and the latter in
1768 ; a handsome Gothic monument to John Kendall, Esq., and his wife,
who died, the former in 1828, aged 76, and the latter in 1833, aged 79 ; a
626 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
«
neat marble tablet, surmounted by an urn, to Alexander Gerrard, Esq., bar-
rister-at-law, wbo died in this city during the Assizes, in March, 1791, aged
51 ; a tablet to John Girdler, Esq., who died in 1793, aged 82 ; two neat
tablets to the Radcliffe fianulj ; and a neat marble tablet to William Oldfield,
Esq., Lord Major in the years 1825 and 1832, who died in 1846, aged 65.
This likewise commemorates his widow, Ann Tamar, who died in 1853, aged
62. At the east end of the north aisle is a handsome monument to Sir
William Sheffield, Ent, who died in 1633, aged 58. It exhibits busts of Sir
William and his wife, and female figures on each side. Above is a pediment
with a shield of arms, and reclining on each side are representations of Faith
and Hope, with Charity in the centre. On the floor at the end of this aisle is
a brass plate, bearing the inscription, " In memory of Mary Ann Campbdl,
who died in 1806, aged 39 years, R. I. P." In the south aisle is a slab to
E. J. Challoner, Esq., who died in 1830, aged 30 ; and near it is one to the
memory of Mrs. Porteus, mother of the learned Beilby Porteus, Bishop of
London, who was bom in York, and was the youngest of nineteen children.
Also tablets to Thos. Surr, and members of his family ; Ann Townsend ;
George Peacock, Esq., his wife, &c. ; Elizabeth Sayer ; Sarah Stephenson ;
and a large handsome one to Robert Horsfleld, Esq. On the floor at the
west end is a half length figure in brass of C. Harrington, goldsmith,
who died in 1614.
St. Martin's Church, Micklegate. — ^An ancient Discharged Rectory, for-
merly belonging to the Barons Trusbutt, then to the Priory of Wartre or
Worter, then to the Lords Scroope, of Masham, and now in the hands of
trustees for the benefit of the parish. The present Rector is the Rev. John
Montagu Wynyard. There was one chantry in this church before the Re-
formation. The Edifice, which is of mixed styles, comprises the usual parts
of a parish church. The tower was rebuilt of brick in 1677, and is the most
modem part of the church. Its west front has a pointed window of three
lights, and its finish is a balustrade. In 1565 John Bean, Lord Mayor, gave
£100. to buy a set of " tuneable bells; " there are now three bells in the
tower. In 1680 a clock and dial were erected, at the cost of the widow of
Alderman Bawtry. In 1585 the church of St Gregory was united to this
church, and hence it is called St, MarHn-cum-Oregory, In the west end of
the north aisle is a window of three lights, with trefoil heads ; the end of the
south aisle is plain. The north side of the church, which faces the street, is
in two divisions, marked by the style of architecture. The western end.
which appears to be of tHe early part of the 14th century, has two windows
similar to the one in the west end, and a small projecting porch, with an an-
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 527
gular roof. The east end is made into four divisions by buttresses of three
gradations, finished with grotesque gargoyles. In each division is a pointed
window of three lights. Above the whole is a parapet supported by sculp-
tured blocks. This portion is a good specimen of the style prevalent in the
early part of the 15th century. The east end of the church is almost built
against On the apex of the roof is a foliated cross. The entire length of
the south side is made into seven divisions by buttresses, finished with gar-
goyles, much mutilated. The windows are similar to those in the chancel
end in the north aisle, but the parapet is without the sculptured blocks. In
the interior the nave and chancel are divided from the aisles bv three columns,
the two westernmost ones being circular ; from the capitals spring pointed
arches of the 13th century. The chancel is separated from the nave by a
plain arch. The altar piece is of the Ionic order, with a circular pediment.
The pulpit is of wainscot oak, of sexagonal form, and richly carved. The
font is a plain octagon, on a pedestal of the same form. The ceiling of the
chancel rakes to about two-thirds of the chancel arch, where it becomes flat.
The roof of the nave, which springs from the clerestory windows, is panelled,
with sculptured bosses at the intersections. The ceiling of the north aisle is
plain, and the south aisle is like unto it, except that the chancel portion of it
is ceiled like the nave, though the bosses are gone. An organ was erected in
the tower, which opens to the nave, in 1836. There is a considerable quan-
tity of stained glass in the windows, but generally in sad condition. The
remains of Mr. W. Peckitt, glass painter and stainer, of this city, who died
in 1795, aged 64, are buried in the chancel of this church, and there is in
one of the windows of the north aisle a neat piece of modem stained glass to
his memory ; and a figure of Eeligion (between St. Catherine and St. John),
by the same artist, to the memory of Anne, his wife, who died in 1765. In
the windows of this aisle are also representations of Adam and Eve, and the
Baptism of Christ ; and in the windows of the south aisle are St. George and
some other saints, much mutilated. Amongst the monuments is one in the
south aisle to T. Carter, Esq., Alderman and Lord Mayor of York, who died
in 1686, aged 52 ; one to J. Strickland, Esq., of Siserge, in Westmorland,
who died in 1791, aged 88 ; and one in the nave to J. Dawson, Esq., who
died in 1731. The Register book of this parish contains many curious entries
relative to the siege of York during the civil war in the reign of Charles I.
The ancient Church of St. Gregory stood in Barker Lane, formerly called
Gregory Lane. This lane leads from Micklegate to Tanner Row.
Church of St. Mary, Bishophill Senior, or the Elder, — This was an-
ciently a Rectory of medieties, one of which belonged to tlie Abbot and
Convent of llealaugh Park, to whom it was given by Robert dc riumptou.
It aflcrwards came to tbc Crown, and the families of Percy, Vavasour, and
Scropc; and in 1515 the whole of the patronage came to the Crown. In
1585 the parish Church of St. Clement, without Skeldergate Postern, was
united to this church. The Ilcv. Henry William Beck with is the present
licctor. There were formerly two chantries here. The Structure is small
and ancient, and having a double row of trees in the church-yard, it pos-
sesses a very rural and pleasing appearance. It consists of a nave, chancel,
north aisle, and a square tower at the north west angle. According to Drake
there is a great quantity of millstone grit wrought in the walls. The tower,
which was built in 1G50, and in which is a peal of six good bells, is princi-
pally of brick, with stone quoins, dressings, and battlements. The nave and
chancel have roofs rising to gables, and of red tiles. In the south side is a
brick porch, and several pointed windows placed without any order, and in
the walls is a curious carved stone, apparently a portion of a sepulchral
memorial, having a cross with rich scroll work. The east end of the church
is finished with a plain buttress. The large cast window in the chancel is
of five lights, with Perpendicular tracery. The chancd is in the Ayle of the
14th century. A modem erection of brick, attached to the east end of the
chancel aisle, serves as a vestry. The north side of the nave is in three
divisions (including the tower) made by buttresses of four gradations ; and in
each division is a pointed arched window of two lights, with trefoil heads,
the sweeps containing a circle in which is a cinquefoil. The weather cornice
terminates in heads much mutilated. The chancel is in two divisions, the
centre buttress having a finial. The interior is neatly fitted up. Three
semicircular arches springing firom circular columns, with square capitals, and
one pointed arch which rises from an octagonal pillar and capital, divides the
north aisle from the nave. The chancel is divided from the aisle by three
arches similar to the last described. The ceiling of the whole is fiat On
the south side of the communion table is a cinquefoil locker. The font is
octagonal, and rests on a similar base. Though much altered, the interior
of this church displays the architecture of the 12th and 13th centuries.
Amongst the monuments, which are numerous, are but a few particulariy
worthy of notice. In the chancel is a cenotaph, ornamented with cherubs
and drapery, to Elias Pawson, Esq., Alderman, and Lord Mayor 1704, who
died in 1715, aged 44 ; and one to G. Dawson, Esq., of York, who died in
1812, aged 79. There is also there a neat monument to Mr. Thomas Rod-
well, who died in 1787, aged 44 ; and a Gothic tablet to Mrs. Sarah Atkinson,
who died in 1825, aged 39. The church-yard is extensive, and abounds with
KCCLE9IASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 539
tomb stones. Near the tower is a handsome monument, surmounted by a
sarcophagus, on lions' feet, to the memory of Mr. Peter Atkinson, of this
city, architect, who died in 1805, aged 70. For some particulars of the
church of St. Clement, see page 406. The out townships of Dringhouses
and Middlethorpe belong to this parish.
Church of St. Mart, BishopkUl Junior, or the Younger. — This is a Dis-
charged Vicarage, and one of the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of
York. The present incumbent is the Rev. Arthur Howard Ashworth. The
Edifice, which is of great antiquity, was till latterly supposed to be a Saxon
structure ; but Mr. Wellbelovcd and other antiquarians consider that it was
rebuilt in the latter part of the Idth, or the early part of the 13th, century,
of Saxon and even of Roman materials. Much of the masonry has a genuine
Saxon appearance, especially in the heavy square tower at the west end,
which is equal to the breadth of the nave. In the lower portions of the
latter appendage are small loop-holes or windows, and the stones and bricks
are disposed in herring-bone masonry, which is quite of the Saxon cha-
racter. According to Drake, this is the largest tower of any parish church
in the city, and the same authority informs us that the north side of
the church is almost wholly built of large stones of grit, on which several
regular architectural mouldings can be traced. The plan of the church em-
braces a nave and side aisles, with a chancel and north aisle. The tower
contains three bells, and is finished with a battlement, and eight small
crocketed pinnacles. The roof of the nave rises to a gable. The chancel,
which is the most ancient part of the structure except the tower, has a
pointed window of three lights in the east end ; and there is a pointed win-
dow in the same end of the south aisle. The windows in the south side of
the church are of mixed styles, and the north side is built against. In the
interior the nave is divided from the aisles by a cylindrical colunm, from
which spring on the north side two semicircular arches, which rest against
the piers ; those on the south side are heavy and pointed. The chancel arch
is pointed ; the tower arch is semicircular, resting on piers of strong masoniy ;
and the chancel is divided from the aisle by two pointed arches, resting on an
octagonal column. The roof of the nave is divided into panels, but the bosses
which ornamented the angles are gone. The font is a circular basin, on an
octangular pillar. There are some remains of stained glass in the windows,
but much mutilated. There are no monuments worthy of notice.
The out townships, or Chapelries of Copmanthorpe and Upper Poppleton,
situated in the Ainsty, belong to this parish ; the churches will be des-
cribed in the account of those places at subsequent pages.
3 Y
530 FXcLF:SIA^TIiAF. RDIFfCe^ OV TOKK.
8t. Mary 8 Chuiuh, Casdegait. — ^This church, which i8 called in ancient
writings, Ecclesia Sancte Marie ad portam Castri, is an ancient Rectory of
medieties, formeriy held by the Percj familj, Earls of Northamberland, and
the Priory of Kirkham. It was consolidated into one Rectory in the year
1400, under the patronage of the Percys alone ; and at the Reformation the
advowson reverted to the Crown. The present Rector is the Rev. Joseph
Salvin. The Edifice consists of a nave and side aisles, chancel and westers
tower, and spire. All the angles are finished with buttresses of three grada-
tions, and at the north-west angle is an octagonal staircase. The west front
of the tower has a large pointed window of five lights, and a transom. Above
this window is a niche, and on each side is a sculptured block and oanopy,
for statues, but by the decay of the limestone, all the work that formeiiy
adorned this front, and indeed the whole exterior of the church, is completely
destroyed. The lower story of the tower is finished with a battlement. The
second story of the tower is octagonal, of elegant proportions ; in four of the
faces of which are pointed windows (nearly the height of the structure) of
throe lights, with ornamented transoms in the middle ; and in the four re-
maining faces is a slight buttress of three gradations, finished with gargoyles
of heads of animals, &c. These windows are now partly filled up with brick,
which gives them a very unsightly appearance. This tower is ornamented
with the highest and most perfect spire in the city. It too is octagonal, and
its height from the ground is 154 feet. The west front of the aisks contain
each a window of three lights, and each is finished with a string course and
battlement, gradually rising to the tower. The south side of the church is
in six divisions, divided by buttresses, finished with angular caps orocketed,
with gargoyles beneath. In the first of these divisions* from th« west, is a
pointed arohed window of three lights ; in the second, a porch, and the other
divisions have square-headed windows with transoms. The sottCh aiale is
finished with a cornice and battlement The north side of the chuich very
closely resembles the south side. When in a perfect state the exterior of
this church must have been very handsome, and would exhibit a good sped-
men of the ecclesiastical architecture of the 16th century. The interior,
which is of an earlier date, probably of the latter part of the 13th oentoiy,
is spacious. The tower, which contains three bells, <^f»ens into the nave and
aisles by pointed arches. The nave is divided from the aisles by three
pointed arches rising from columns, some of which are circular and aome
octangular, with capitals of the Norman form, but of different designs. The
westernmost arch of the north aisle is pointed, and is double the span of the
others, and the corresponding arch of the south aiales is the same spaa, but
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF tORK. 631
cireulur in form. The arch which divides the chancel from the nave is
pointed. The chancel is separated from the side aisles (the east ends of
which appear to have formerly been chapels) by two unequal arches on the
south side, and three on the north, the narrowest one on each side being
built up, apporentlj for the purpose of receiving monuments, and by which
this portion of the church is much disfigured. The top of the east window
of the chanoel is filled with ancient stained glass, and there is some of the
same beautiful material in the window at the east end of the south aisle. In
the chancel is an ancient seat, with a sculptured monk on the miserioord,
and there are in the church two other similar seats, one of which has the
carved misericord. On the south side of the communion table is a carving
in wood of a female, probably the Blessed Virgin, with two angels on each
side. The roofs of the nave and chancel have a slight rise, and are panelled
without ornaments, as is also the roof of the south aisle ; the ceiling of the
north aisle, which is modem, is flat and plastered. The church is furnished
with the old high pews ; the font resembles a large vase. There are several
old monumental inscriptions, some of them as old as the 14th and 15th
centuries. Many of these ancient gravestones are in the floor of the church,
especially in the chancel and side chapels. In the floor in front of the
altar is a slab to the memory of Sir Heniy Thompson, of Middlethorpe, and
his lady, bearing the arms of that nobleman. In the chancel are tablets to
the Rev. R. Coulton, Rector of this church, who died in 1713, aged 76 ;
and W. Mushett, M.D., who died in 1793, aged 77 ; also a large marble
tablet to William Mason, Presbyter, son of Valentine, once Vicar of EUoughton,
who died in 1708, aged 78, and Jane his ^vife ; and a monument to Lewis
West, Esq., and his wife — ^he died in 1718, aged 63, and she died in 1733,
aged 77. At the east end of the south aisle are two corbals of angels holding
shields charged with the arms of William Gray, who had a chantry founded
for him in this church. In the church-yard is the gravestone of Eliza Kirk-
ham Mathews, widow of the late Charles Mathews, the celebrated comedian,
who died in 1803 ; the age is defaced. Thoresby, in the Appendix to his
Dueatus Leodientis, tells us that he had in his possession a copper plate, found
in making a grave in this church, which *' had been covertly conveyed and
fihstened on liie inside of the coffin of a priest, who was executed for the plot
of 1080." The plate bore the following inscription : —
" R. D. Thomas Thweng de Heworth, collegii Anglo Dnaceni sacerdos, post 15 annos
in Anglicana missione tronsactos Eboraci condemnatus, martyrio affcctus est Oct. die
23, anno Dom. 1680. Bnobus fidsis testibas ob crimen conspirationis tunc temporis
catholids malitiose impoeitam."
532 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TO&K.
York Castle, though extra parochial, is in some measure oonnected with
this parish, as the prisoners who died a natural death in the prison were
usually interred in this church yard, for which one guinea was charged on
each occasion.
St. Michael-Le-Belfbt Church, Petergaie. — This church, which is a
sort of adjunct to the Cathedral, is the largest and the veiy best and most
elegant parochial church in York. It is supposed to deriye its appellation of
Le Belfry^ which distinguishes it from St Michael*8, Ous^gate, from standing
near the turrii campanifera, or belfry of the Minster ; others think that it
was partly used as a belfry to the CathedraL This church is part of the
ancient possessions of the Dean and Chapter of York, to whom it was c<m-
finned by Pope Celestine HE., in 1140. The benefice is a Perpetual Curacy,
of which the Dean and Chapter are the patrons and impropriators, and the
Rev. Charles Eose the present Incumbent. The original Structure, which
appears to have been erected soon after the Norman Conquest, was taken
down in 1585, and the present Fabric was completed ten years afterwards.
During the time that the choir of the Minster was being restored after the
fire of 1829, this church was used for the daily service of the Cathedral —
the gallery being fitted up for the choir — and during the year 1853, the
interior was re-fioored, re-pewed, and otherwise restored, at a cost of about
£ 1,250., raised by subscription. These restorations were effected from designs
by Mr. George Fowler Jones, architect, of this city. It was re-opened for
divine service on the 2drd December, 1853, on which occasion the sermon
was preached by his Grace the Archbishop of the province, when a liberal
collection was realized in aid of the restoration fund. This handsome uni-
form edifice, which is a good specimen of the late Perpendicular style, cojt-
sists of three aisles, the east end of the centre one, or nave, being used as a
chancel. Formerly houses were built against the west end of the south aisle,
but all these, from hence to the top of Little Blake Street, have, within the
last few years, been removed. (See page 461.) The exterior west end is
mado into three divisions by buttresses, the two centre ones being of un-
common size and in four gradations. In the lower story of the centre diviston
is an arched doorway now fiUed up ; above this rises a handsome pointed
window of h\e lights, and this window is bounded by another arch of laiger
dimensions, the soffit being filled with plain but bold mouldings, which
vanish in the buttresses. Above this is a cornice, and the apex is crowned
with a small but neat bell turret, rebuilt a few years ago. The sill of this
window forms a weather coniico to the doorway beneath it. The west end
of the north aisle exhibits a depressed pointed arch of four lights, and the
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK. 583
window of the same end of the south aisle is filled np. It is to be regretted
that the opening of the ancient western entrance and the restoration of the
last mentioned window did not form part of the recent improvements ; the
houses by which this end of the church was disfigured having been removed,
there seems no reason why the church itself should retain its present un-
sightly iq)pearance. The south side of the structure, abutting on the street,
has a very handsome appearance. It consists of six divisions made by slight
buttresses of three gradations, which do not rise to above two thirds of the
height of the aisle, and are finished in tall square shafts, which terminate
above the battlement in pinnacles ornamented with crocketing, and end in a
finial. Attached to the first step of each buttress is a band, which is con-
tinued round the church ; and the top is finished by a plain band and parapet,
and over each buttress is a gargoyle. In each of the six divisions is a de-
pressed pointed arched window of four lights; the dado is enriched with
square panels, enclosing quatrefoils, with shields bearing the arms of St.
William, Archbishop Zouch, St. Peter, and the Sees of York and London.
At the south west angle is a turret staircase, and in the first division from
the west is an arched doorway. The north side is similar in form to the
south, except that the dado is plain. The clerestory windows, twelve in
number, which are barely observable in the street, are square headed, and of
three lights each. The gargoyles, which are composed of monsters, human
beings as well as birds, serve to attach the shafts of the buttresses to the
walls of the aisles. The east end is similar to the west, if we except the
absence of massy buttresses, the bounding arch of the centre window, and
the turret and door. The interior is exceedingly elegant and affords a good
specimen of the architecture of the I6th century. The nave and chancel are
divided from the aisles by six depressed pointed arches, resting on clusters oi
four columns, united by octagonal capitals ; in the spandrils a quatrefoil in
a circle between two trefoils, and beneath, an angel holding shields charged
alternately with two swords and keys in saltire. The ceilings are flat,
panelled, without bosses. The altar piece, erected in 1714, is of oak, con-
sisting of four Corinthian pillars, with the entablature, Royal Arms, Ac, The
neat oaken pews — single seats — exhibit some chaste carving, executed by
Mr. James Jones, of this city. The pulpit and reading desk are new and
elegant, the former was presented by John Roper, Esq., and the latter is the
gift of John Clough, Esq., both of Clifton near York. In the gallery, which
is at the west end of the church, is a handsome organ. Drake tells us that
the organ of this church in his time, the only one belonging to any parish
church in this city, was removed here from the Catholic chapel of the Manor
634 ECCLESTASnCAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
fiouBe ; " bat was first had from the church of DarhAm, as the arms upon
it doth shew.*' The east window of the ooitre aisle« and that of the north
aisle, are filled with stained glass ; and there are considerable remains of
that article in the windows of the soath aisle. They exhibit foil length
figures of SS. Peter, Paul, John, Christopher, William the Archbishop,
Michael, &c. Among the monmnents the following are the most worthj of
notice. A laige one at the east end of the south aide to R. Squire, Esq.,
who died in 1709, and Priscilla his wife, who died in 1711. This monument
consists of two costmnic effigies resting their arms on urns, and orer them
two chembs supporting a celestial crown, all within an arched recess sap-
ported by two Corinthian pilasters. In the same aisle are tablets to R.
Farrer, Esq., Lord Mayor in 1756 and 1769, who died in 1780, aged 75 ;
and to A. Hunter, M.D., who died in 1809, aged 79. A neat tablet at the
east end of the north aisle to the Rer. Wm. Richardson, for more than fifty
years minister of this church, who died in 1831, aged 76. This clergyman
was also sub-chanter of the Cathedral, and the compiler of the hymn book
used in most of the York churches, called tibe "York Psalm and Hymn
Book." Near to the latter is a tablet to the Rev. W. Knight, of Banbury,
Oxon., sub-chanter of the Cathedral, who died in 1780, aged 65. In this
church lie the remains of Gent, the historian, and his infimt son. There
was a chantry founded in 1479, by Sir Ralph Buhner, Knt., to pray for bis
soul at the altar of " Our Ladye " in this church. Its yearly Talue was 498.
Part of the townships of Clifton and Rawcliffe are within this parish.
The ancient Church of St Wiyrid stood on the north side of Lendal, on
or near the site occupied by the house now known as the Judges* Lodgings.
St. Wilfrid's is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, as an ancient Rectory
prior to the Conquest; but the fietbric of the church must have been ruinous
at an eariy date, for in Queen Mary's time (1556) the church-yaid was bM
to Richard Goldthorpe, who was Lord Mayor, for JSIO. At the union oi
churches in York, in 1585, this parish was united to the church of St
Michael-le-Belfry, but with the peculiar clause, that, " if ever the parishioners
think fit to rebuild their church, the parish shall remain as before.** A few
years ago when the floor of the Assembly Rooms, aoyoining the site of this
church, was re-laid, sereral portions of on ancient porch, which, from the
remains, must have been nearly as fine as that of St Margaret's, were found
near the base of some of the columns which decorate the interior. This
porch had doubtiess belonged to the church of St Wilfirid.
St. Michael's Cruroh, Low Ousegate, commonly called St Michael's,
Spurriergate, is an ancient Rectoiy, now in the patronage of the Crown, and
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOUK. 585
inciunbency of the Rev. Robert SuttoD. This church, the origmal foundation
of which is very ancient, was given bj William the Conqueror, or, as Arch-
bishop Sharp was of opinion, by William Kufus, to the Abbey of St Mary, at
York. It contained one chantry. The Edifice^ which forms nearly a square
with a western tower, is in the Perpendicular style. According to Drake,
the west end was almost entirely built of grit stone, and contains some blocks
of an extraordinaiy size. In 183d, during the improvements consequent
upon the erection of the new bridge across the Ouse, and in order to widen
the approaches to it, several houses, which hid the south side of this church
from view, were removed, and that side of the edifice, as well as the end abut*
ting on Spurrieigate, were taken down and rebuilt further back. The exterior
of the church consequently presents a modem appearance. The west end is
i^pproached by a small passage, called St. Michael's Lane, leading from Low
Ousegate, half round the church to Spurriergate, and from the great number
of bones dug up here at various times, the houses in this lane seem to have
been built on part of the ancient church-yard. Two buttresses divide the
west end of the church into three divisions. The tower, which contains a
peal of six bells, is four stories in height, in the lower of which is a doorway,
having the weather cornice finished with two grotesque beads. Above it is
a pointed window of four lights ; there are smaller windows in the upper
stories, and the top is finished with a string course and battlement. The
south side of the tower exhibits a clock dial« which is illuminated during the
winter months. The south and east sides of the church have a |dain and neat
appearance, and contain very good windows ; and the north side is partly
built against. The interior, which is very neatly fitted up, is divided into
three aisles by four pointed arches and a half, whieh spring from columns
formed of four cylinders, cox\ioined with leaved capitals. The half arch,
which is at the east end, was occasioned by yielding seven leet of the temer
church to Spumeigate, to widen the street, as already mentioned. At that
time tke whole of the interior was ornamented, the floor was raised, and the
pews formed anew. The ceiling is flat, and in large panels. The altar piece
is of oak, in three compartments, made by four compoflite pilasters, the
centre compartment being finished with an arch, on which is a small figure
of St MiehaaL. The pulpit is sexagonal, the font is very mean, and a small
gallery at the west end contains an organ. The windows contain some
stained gkiss, much mutilated, representing the history of St. John. The
monuments are not numerous; on the floor is a brass to the memory of
WiUiam Hancock, of this city, who died in 1485 ; and on the south side is a
neat tablet to J. Wood, Esq., Lord Mayor, who died in 1704. At six o*clock
i
586 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
every morning (Sundays excepted) a bell is rung in the tower of this church,
and after this bell has chimed, another is rung as many times as will corres-
pond to the day of the month. The custom of ringing the first-menticmed
bdl is said to derive its origin from the circumstance of a trayeller having
bst his way in the forest that formerly surrounded Yoric. After wandering
about all night, he was rgoiced to hear the clock of St. Michael strike six,
which at once told him where he was. To commemorate his deliyerance from
the perils of the night, he left a sum of money that the bdl might thencefor-
ward be rung at six every morning. The Curfew BeU, too, still continues to
be tolled here at eight o'clock in the evening.
St. Sampson's Church, Chttrch Street. — ^An ancient Rectory, formerly in
the patronage of the Archdeacons of Cleveland until the reign of Edward
nL, when it came to the Crown. In 1303 Richard II. granted the advow-
son to the Vicars Choral of the Cathedral, to be appropriated to their CoU^e,
in return for their having undertaken to celebrate in this church an anni-
versary obit for the King and Queen Anne, and to use other devotional
exercises for the eternal repose of their souls. There were formerly three
chantries of this church. From some unknown cause this living is not men-
tioned in the King's Books, but it is now a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of
the Sub-Chanter and Vicars Choral, and incumbency of the Rev. Thomas
Bayley. The alterations consequent upon the formation of the new market,
in 1834, brought this church more prominently into sight Prior to these
improvements, it stood almost completely hid at the confluence of Swinegate
and a street called Girdlergate ; but the latter street was then lengthened, by
being carried through the church-yard into the Market Place, and Girdlergate
and its continuation were together called Church Street With the exception
of the tower, the entire edifice has been recently restored, at a cost of about
£f^flOO., raised by subscription, and it is now a neat commodious church.
The restoration was finished in 1848. The Fabric, the style of which is a
mixture of the Decorated and the Perpendicular, consists of a nave^of which
the east end forms the chancel), and side aisles, with a large square tower of
stone at the west end. This tower contains two bells, and exhibits many
marks of age and violence. Like other steeples in York, it suffered from the
cannon balls of the Parliamentarians, at the siege of York in 1644, and the
perforation of one is still visible. The tower was originally three stories in
height but the upper story being in danger of falling, was taken down when
the church was restored. The angles of the tower are guarded by buttresses^
and the west front has in the lower story a laige pointed window of four
lights. In the next story is a niche, with a pedestal and statue in pontifical
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORK. 537
attire, much deoBjed.* When the tower was perfect it was finished with a
batdement. In the west end of each aisle is a pointed window of three
lights. The north and south sides of the church are alike, being made into
six diyisions by buttresses of three gradations. In the westernmost division
is a pointed doorway, and in each of the other divisions is a square-headed
window of two lights. The east end of the church is in three divisions, the
roof of each rising to an apex ; in each division is a pointed window of three
lights, the centre one being the largest. The interior is fitted up with open
seats. The nave is separated from the aisles by six arches, supported by oc-
tangular columns, with similar capitals ; the tower opens into the nave ; the
roofs are open, but plainly boarded over and stained. The old roof of the
nave was- very rich and beautiful. The altar piece has fluted pilasters of the
Ionic order, the pulpit and reading desk are new and very neat, the former
being of very elegantly carved oak, and the organ is good. At the side of
the south door is a large holy water basin. Drake mentions several coats of
arms which were in the windows, but all the painted glass has been long re*
moved. There are now no monuments particularly worthy of notice.
St. Saviour's Church, Su Savumrgate, was anciently styled the Church
of St. Saviour, in Maritco (in the marsh, in allusion to its site having once
been marshy ground.) It was founded before the Norman invasion, for we
find that William I. gave it to the Abbey of St. Maiy. At the Heformation
the advowson came to the Crown. The living is a Rectory, and the present
Rector is the Rev. Josiah Crofts. There were formerly seven chantries in
this church, all of which were of considerable value ; likewise a guild or fra-
ternity of St Martin, founded by letters patent from Henry YI.
In 1585 the parishes of St John, in Hungate, and St Andrew, in St.
Andrewgate (both mentioned in Domesday Book), were united to this church
and parish. The church of St Saviour, which is said to have been re-
built out of the remains o{ a neighbouring Carmelite convent (See page 494),
was restored, heightened, and improved in 1843, at an expense of nearly
£1,700., raised by subscription. It comprises a nave, side aisles, and west
tower, which contains two bells. In the west front of the tower is a fine tall
pointed window of three lights, with a transom, and there are small windows
• According to Alban Butler, author of the Lives of the SaintSf St. Sampson, the
patron of this church, was bom in Glamorganshire, about the year 406, and was con-
seorated Bishop in 5^ by St Bnbritias, without being fixed in any particular see. The
name is sometimes writteo Sanxo, and traditioii informs as that there was a Bishop of
York of that name in the time of the Britons, and that a stone statue, which may yet
be observed on the west side of the tower, is of him. This is the only church in Eng*.
Und dedicated to St Sampson.
8 z
538 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
in the apper stories. The tower is supported at the angles by double but-
tresses, and the top is finished with a battlement, within which rises an
angular roof, which is surmounted by a wooden cross, terminating in a
weathercock. The west front of the aisles have each a pointed arched win-
dow of three lights. The north side of the church, which faces the street to
which the church gives name, is made into three divisions by buttresses ; in the
first from the west is a pointed doorway, and in each of the others two pointed
windows. The south side is similar to the north ; and the aisles are furnished
with a parapet There are three windows at the east end ; the centre <me
consisting of five, and those on each side, of four lights. Attached to this
end of the church is a vestiy of modem erection, covered with campo, which
is quite an excrescence. The interior of the church is neatly furnished with
single seats. The centre is divided from each of the side aisles by ^yb
pointed arches, supported by octagonal columns with capitals ; there are gal-
leries extending nearly round three sides of the building ; and in one of them
is a good organ. The tower is open to the nave, and the fine window which
it contains, with its coloured bordering, is seen to great advantage. The
roof^ which is new, is waggon-headed, empanelled, and exhibits gilded mould-
ings and massy beams. The east end of the nave is fitted up as a chancel
or sanctuary. The altar piece consists of four small fluted Ionic pilasters sup-
porting a frieze ; the pulpit is neat ; the font is a large massy octangular
basin, over which is a ponderous carved cover with a cross and dove. The
churchwardens* seats at the west end of the church (for the united parishes),
consist of two ancient carved stalls with moveable seats, and two modem
stalls made after the same pattern. In the centre window at the east end is
a mass of stained glass, arranged in beautiful disorder in 1801, and said to
represent the l^end of St. Anthony ; and there are some brilliant remains <^
the same article in the other windows at the same end. Within the rails of
the communion table is a slab inscribed to the memory of Sir John and Lady
Hewley, whose names have become so well known in connection with a cha-
ritable institution in this city, and a long pending case arising out of it, before
the Court of Chancery. Sir John died in 1697, aged 78, and " Dame Sanh
Hewley his wife," died in 1710. In the south aisle is a neat tablet to Thomas
Withers, M.D., who died in 1809, aged 59 ; also a handsome white marUe
tablet to Andrew Perrott, M.D., who died in 1763, aged 49 ; and two inural
tablets to the Wilkinson family. In the north aisle is a tablet to Col. Roger
Morris (and family), of the 47th regiment, who died in 1794, aged 68 ; one
to Edward Smith, Esq., who died in 1799, in his 88th year ; and another to
Thomas Atkinson and family.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORK. 539
Near Hungate on tlie east, on a spot long known as St John's Green, bat
now covered with building[s, stood the ancient Church of 8t, John the Baptist,
It was one of the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of York, and was
Talued at £6. per annum.
The ancient Church of St. Andrew is still partly in existence in the street
to which it gives name. It tea was one of the great farms of the Dean and
Chapter, and an annual rent of two shillings for it was formerly appropriated
to the revenues of that body. The building is of small dimensions, and has
undergone strange mutations, and been horribly desecrated ; " it has been
now a house of prayer, and then a den of thieves," writes Baines ; and Allen,
who wrote in 1829, after telling us that it had been at one time a common
brothel, says *' one part of it is now used as a stable, and the other as a free
grammar school.'* The nave or body of the church is at present used as a
girls' national school, and upon the site of a chancel the cottage has been
erected, in which the schoolmistress resides. The chancel arch is entirely
blocked up, except a space for a small door for the accommodation of the
teacher. The church-yard is partly built upon, and the remainder is used as
a play-ground for the children.
Holt Trikitt Chubch, King's Square, commonly caUed Christ Church,
CoIUergate, was anciently styled "Ecclesia S. Trinitatis in aula vel curia
regisj* and in Old English, " Sainct Trinitye in Conyng garthe" Drake infers
firom the former title that the old courts of the imperial palace of the Em-
perors which existed in Roman York, reached to this place. It was a Rec-
tory at one time, in the patronage of the family of Basyes, or Bascy, and in
time it came to the Nevilles, and was given in 1414, by Ralph Neville, Earl
of Westmorland, to a Hospital he had founded at Wells, the master of which
is the present patron. The original endowment was vezy trifling. According
to Torre, the Vicar was formerly discharged of all burdens, ordinary and ex-
traordinary, except the charge of finding *' straw in winter, and green rushes
in summer, for the strewing of the church, according to the common use of
churches." The living is now a Discharged Vicarage, and the Incumbent is
the Rev. Richard Inman. In the time of Archbishop Sharp the minilter had
no income, and a Vicar had not been appointed since the Reformation. The
church formerly contained four chantries. In Drake's time a ditch on one
aide of the church was visible, and still retained the name of the King's
Ditch. In 1768 the edifice was considerably reduced on the north side for
the extension of the area required for a hay market ; and in 1880 it was cur-
tailed on the east side, in order to widen Colliergate. The total removal of
this church would add much to the public convenience, whilst there would
540 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
be no loss of architectaral beauty. The reouuns of the church-yard, on the
south side, has been so much raised through interments, as to cause a descent
to the church. The Building now consists of three aisles, with a low tower,
containing a peal of six bells. In the west front of the tower is a spadous
window of five lights, and the top is finished with a battlement. The win-
dows of the church are of rarious periods. All the three roofs rise to fdain
gables. There were formerly some houses and a large brick porch against
the south side of the church, but they were removed a few years ago. The
interior was re-pewed in 1880. The tower is op^i to the nave by a lofty
pointed arch, resting on octagonal piers. The north aisle is separated from the
nare by two pointed arches, supported by octagonal pillars without capitals ;
and by two and a half arches on the south, with similar pillars. The ceil-
ings of the nave and north aisle are panelled, but the south aisle has a
common open roof. The sanctuary is plain, the pulpit is hexagonal, and the
font is octagonal. A blue slab in the body of the church bears an inscription
to F. Alcock, Lord Mayor, who died in 1680, aged 65 ; and near it is a brass
tablet to H. Tiveman, Lord Mayor, who died in 1673, aged 68.
Holy Tumm Church, Micklegate. — ^There was a church here, in con-
nexion with a religious house, from a yezy early period, and having from some
unknown cause come to ruin about the period of the Conquest, Ralph de
Paganell restored its service, renewed the endowment, and gsTe it to cer-
tain monks, who thence took the title oi the Prior and Convent of the
Holy Trinity. (See page 490.) At the dissolution the patronage came to
the Crown. The living is a Discharged Vicarage, not mentioned in the
King's Books. The parish of St. Nicholas was united to this, according to
the statute, in 1585. The Rev. John Baines Graham, of Felkirk, near Wake-
field, is the present Vicar, but the Rev. Godfrey P. Cordeux, the officiating
Curate, receives all the emoluments, except the rents of a gallery in the church,
which was erected at the cost of the present Vicar. " This church is now of
small compass," says Drake, "but has been abundantly larger, as appears
by the building. The steeple of it, being extremely ruinous, was blown
down ih 1651, and rebuilt at the charges of the parish."*
The Fabric now consists of the nave only of the conventual church, and a
small modei'n south aisle, with a square tower at the north west angle. The
tower, which contains two bells, is strengthened with buttresses; in the
middle of the north front is a small window, and in three sides of the uppo*
* It must have been either a torrot or a portion of Uie tower that was then blown
down, as the sUiicture is decidedly of an earlier date.
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOBK. 541
story is a circular headed window, within a circukr arch supported bj two
dwarf columns, with aq^uace capitals and bases. The top is finished with a
cornice and batilenient, and the ^ane of the weathercock bears the date of
1781. The south side of the tower presents a highlj curious and uncommon
appearance. The lower story has a large arch, now filled up, and above it
are the remains of an arcade of acutely pointed arches, springing from cir*
eular columns. It is thought probable that the front of this church exhibited
an extenaiTe facade, some remains of which exist attached to the tower; and
the ornaments just noticed are supposed by some to have belonged to the
interior of the edifice ; if so, the tower must hare been considerably higher
than at present The north side of the church face» the street, from which
it is separated by a church-yard, well filled with tombstones. This side
exhibits a row of four arches, now filled up, which formerly divided the
nave from the north aisle. In the westernmost arch is a porch, which for*
merly had a groined roof. The doorway is pointed, and the archivault of
the arch has the flower moulding. The other divisions formed by these
arches contain each a pointed window of three lights. At the north east
angle of the building are the piers, upon which the arch was turned to the
transept ; and adjoining and forming the easternmost angle of the church
are five loity pillars united, which originally supported the grand arches
between the choir, nave, and transepts. This side of the church is finished
with a cornice and battlement The roof of the east end rises to a gable,
and the east window, of three lights and simple interlacing arches, is modem.
At the south eastern angle tlie pillars again occur, and the south side ex-
hibits a plain modem aisle. This church was restored and furnished with
open seats in 1850, and the interior now presents a very neat appearanca
The pillars yrhiak divide the nave from the aisle are octagonal, with plain
capitals, from which rise bold but graceful arches. Above each capital is
a triple column, which formerly supported the groined ceiling or trusses of
the roof. There is a small gallery at the west ead, erected several years ago.
The chancel is formed out of the east end of the nave, and at the same end
of the church, against the north wall, is the pulpit and a small organ. The
large window over the communion table was filled with el^aatly stained
glass, executed by Bamett, late of York, and it, as well as the window in the
easternmost division of the north side of the church, and that in the east end
of the south aisle, were presented by the Miss Cromptons, of Micklegate,
formerly of Esholt Hall ; who also gave the munificent sum of JglOO. towards
the restoration fund. Indeed the parishioners are much indebted to these
ladies for the present excellent condition of their parish church, for they, we
542 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOSK«
are crediblj informed, wen chiefly instrninflntol in promotiiig its restoratioa
and re-decontion. The chancel window, which was eieeted as a tiihate to
the memorj of the Miss Cnnnptons* parents, is of a geometrical pattern, and
hears the following inscription : — 4* ^^- SameUB, Tnnitafii. HonofMii. Paret^
turn. Memarei. Dedieavenmt. FUia. Supeniiiei. E.L H.M. M.S. et. C.K
Cramptan. Anno. Dom. MDCCCL. The Messrs. Atkinson, of Yoik, were the
architects lor the restorations ; and the handsome cover of the commmik»i
table was worked and presented by Miss Atkinson, sister to those gentlemen.
The fimt is octagonal, on a similar base, and has an ancient carred cover
sormoanted by a dove, suspended over it. There are sereral moral tablets,
but the one most particularly worthy of notice is that to the memoiy of John
Barton, M.D., F.A.S. (author of the Monattiean EharaeenBe, and the Eccle-
siastical History of Yorkshire, folio, 1758), and Mary, his wife, the former
died in January, 1771, aged 62, and the latter in October in the same year,
aged 68. It represents a scroll of parchment, suspended from two books,
bearing an inscription. Above the scroll is a vase entwined by a serpent,
and suspended from it is a seal with the arms of the deceased author. The
Miss Cromptons erected a neat tablet in memory of the Bey. Frederick Pope,
late minister of this church, who died in 1852, aged 58. The church-yard
was tastefully planted with shrubs, Ac, by the Miss Cromptons, and by per-
mission of the Archdeacon of York and Churchwardens, these ladies keep the
yard in excellent repair. The Vicarage House^ a good brick building erected
in 1630, stands in the burial ground, near the east end of the church.
The ancient Church of 8t. Nicholas stood not far from Micklegate Bar,
near a pioce of ground called Toft Field, now swallowed up in the spacious
Railway Station.
Church of the Holt Trinity, GoodramgaU. — ^An ancient Rectory,
formerly consisting of two medieties, the respective properties of the Priory
of Durham, and the Archbishop of York ; but in the reign of Henry UL.
they both became vested in the Archbishops, who still hold the patronage*
In 1585 the churches of St. Maurice, in Monkgato, and St. John del Pyke,
in Uggleforth, were united to this church and parish. The living is a Dis-
charged Rectory, of which the Rev. Edward John Raines is the present
Incumbent. There were formerly three chantries in this church. Drake
says, " This church bears on its outside many marks of great antiquity, stmie
of grit being wrought into the walls, some of which does but too jdainly
shew the extreme heat of the general conflagration in York,** in 1187.
The Fabric has an antique appearance, and consists of a nave and aisles,
with a square westom tower (containing four bells), and an attached chapel on
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 543
the south side. A few years ago the west end of the south aisle was restored,
the west window in the tower (which is of five lights) renewed, and the south
porch re-huilt The east and west end windows, and those of the south aisle,
have pointed arches ; those of the side chapel and north side of the church are
square headed. The north side was entirely rebuilt about thirty years ago.
Judging from the style of architecture, this church has been built at dif-
ferent periods ; the body apparently is of the 14th century, while the south
aisle is certainly no later than 1216, as appears by the Eoyal Arms of Heniy
m. and Eleanor of Provence. The chantiy chapel may perhaps belong to
the reign of Richard U., and the tower is of the style prevalent in the middle
of the 16th century. The interior is plain but neat The tower is open to
the nave by a lofty pointed arch, supported by octagonal piers. The nave is
divided from the aisles by four pointed arches, resting on low octagonal
columns, and the east end of the nave is used as a chancel. The ceiling of
the body of the church is flat and panelled. The altar piece is plain, the
pulpit is octagonal, and the font is an octagonal basin. The chapel is sepa-
rated from the south aisle by a spacious arch ; at each side are suspended
shields of arms, viz. : — a chevron between three chaplets, and a merchant^
mark, with R. R. The fine window over the communion table, which is very
ancient, is filled with curiously stained glass in a very perfect state, and is
much admired. It contains full length figures of Our Saviour, St. John, St.
Christopher, St. George, and St. Anastasia, as well as several shields of arms,
and scriptural subjects. The east windows of the aisles are also filled with
stained glass. The windows of the south aisle contain three shields of arms,
yiz. : — ^the arms of Henry m., paley of six gu. and or, for Eleanor of Pro-
vence ; and gu. a cross moline or. In the windows of the chapel are the
arms of the families of Percy, Rosse, Mowbray, and Vere. The fine state of
preservation in which the stained glass remains, may be attributed to the
circumstance of this church standing out of the highway, and having no
passage through the church-yard. There are some very old monumental
inscriptions in the church, one so fai back as 1367. There ace two neat
tablets to the memory of some members of the Friar family, and one erected
by the parishioners to the late Rector, the Rev. J. Dallin, who died in 1838.
Church of St. Maurice, wUhoiU Monk Bar, — This was a Rectory of me-
dieties belonging to the two Prebends of Fridaythorpe and Fenton, until
united in 1340 by Archbishop Walter de Grey. It was united with Holy
Trinity, Goodramgate, agreeably to the statute in 1686, but the church was
retained, and divine service is still performed in it by the Incumbent of Holy
Trinity. The living was a Discharged Vicarage ; it is now a peculiar Curacy.
544 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
The Edifice, which is small, is very ancient and dilapidated, bat the
interior has been modernised within the last few years. It consists of two
aisles, or a nave and south aisle ; and varies in style of architecture from the
Norman to the Perpendicular. The west end, which rises to an apex, con-
tains a double circular window, divided by a small column, and on the ridge
of the roof is a small turret of wood, containing two bells. In the west end of
the south aisle is a square window of four lights. The south porch is of
brick, cemented, and within it a pointed doorway, the weather moulding
resting on two heads. The east end exhibits two gables, and in each is a
pointed window of three lights. The south side of the church presents, be-
sides the porch, two square-headed windows of two lights, and beneath the
westernmost one in the wall are two sepulchral slabs, with foliated crosses on
them. The north side of the church has two square windows of three lights,
apparently of modem workmanship. The interior is neatly fitted up ; the
aisles are divided by two lai^e pointed arches, and one smaller at the east
end, all resting on octangular columns, without bases or capitals. The monu-
ments are rather numerous. In the chancel are handsome tablets to John
Clapham, Esq., who died in 1765, aged 52 ; and G. Lutton, Esq., who died
in 1838, aged 53 years.
The ancient churches of St. John dd Pike and St. Mary ad Vahoas were
situated within the Close of the Cathedral. The latter was taken down in
1865, when the Rectory was united to the ndghbouring church of St John
del Pike.
St. Paul's District Church, Holdgate Road, was erected in 1851, at a cost
of about £3,000., raised entirely by subscription. It was built to supply ac-
commodation to the populous district which surrounds it, and which has
sprung up since the opening of the railway. It is locally situated in the
parish of St. Mary, Bishophill the Younger. The living is a Perpetual
Curacy, in the patronage of certain Trustees, and Incumbency of the Rev.
William Ashfordi Cartledge. It is entirely supported by voluntary means.
The Fabric, which is of stone, consists chiefly of three aisles rising to apexes
at the east and west ends ; and is in the Early English style of architecture.
The western entrance — a neatly moulded arched doorway, supported by cir-
cular piUars, and on each side of which is a blank arcade of acutdy pointed
arches — ^is approached by a flight of steps ; and above is a handsome circular
window. This end of the nave has a prcjection, supported by buttresses at
the angles, which terminate in pinnacles, and the apex is surmounted by a
bell turret, crowned by a beautifully executed cross. The sides of the church
are made into six divisions by buttresses, in each of which, with the exception
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 545
of the easternmost ones, is a tall pointed window of two lights ; and in the
excepted divisions are moulded doorways. The east end of the nave or
chancel presents a tall window of three lights. The chancel is finished with
two pinnacles, and the apex is crowned hy a handsome cross. The interior
has a light and elegant appearance. The nave is divided from the aisles hy
five pointed arches on each side ; these arches, which are neatly moulded,
and are exceedingly graceful, spring from light clustered pillars. The chancel
is small, and is marked hy a fine pointed arch. The seats are single, and
will accommodate ahout 700 persons ; and at the west end is a small gallery,
in which is a good organ. The architects of this elegant little church were
the Messrs. Atkinson, of York.
St. Thomas's District Church, Lowtker Street, was erected for the con-
venience of parties residing in the Groves and the adjoining district. The
foundation stone was laid on the 8th of September, 1853 ; the erection was
completed in eleven months ; and it was consecrated and opened on Tuesday,
the ddnd of August, 1854, by the Archbishop of York. The estimated cost
of the buUding, including the site, was £3,370. By means of a Bazaar of
fancy articles, held in York in the months of October and January (during
the erection of the edifice), when nearly £800. was raised, and by the liberal
donations of some individuals, a sum of £1,000. has been set apart towards
an endowment of the church. One half of the seats are free, and the others
are let, and the proceeds arising therefrom are applied towards the stipend of
the officiating clergyman. The district assigned to this church was formed
out of the parishes of St. Maurice and St. Olave. The living is a Perpetual
Curacy, in the patronage of the Archbishop, and Incumbency of the Rev.
Richard Wilton. The Structure is cruciform in plan, having nave, transept,
and chancel — the latter raised three steps above the body of the church, and
separated firom it by a moulded and corbelled arch, 18 feet wide, and 23 feet
high. The transepts are 37 feet wide, and in each is a gallery to accom-
modate 50 worshippers; and on the floor, 400 sittings are obtained in open
seats. The pulpit and reading desk are placed on each side of the chancel
arch ; and the font is near the west entrance. The roofs are open and high
pitched, being 89| feet from the floor to the apex, and 19^ feet to the top of
the wall. The principals have arched and laminated braces, resting on
moulded and foliated stone corbels. Externally the church is plain, with
single windows, trefoil-headed in the nave and west end ; double lights in the
transepts and over the west door; circular foliated windows in the tran-
sept gables ; and a three-light window at the east end, enclosed with three
pointed quatrefoils, under a moulded and labelled arch. The west end is
4 A
546 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
finished with a projecting bell gable, pierced for two bells ; the additional
thickness of the wall allowing for a deep-recessed porch doorway, being the
principal entrance from Lowiher Street The bell gable is surmounted by a
cross, 63 feet from the ground. The buttresses are plain and massive, to
suit the style of stone wori^, which is merely rough hammered work, with
tooled dressings. Tbe stone is fix>m the Collingham quarries, and the walls
are lined with brick. The roofs are covered with Welsh slate. The wood-
work is deal, stained and varnished ; and the windows glazed with Cathedral
glass. Mr. George Fowler Jones, of York, was the architect
The other places of worship in connection with the Established Church
are the Chapel in the Bedem, which is described at page 470, and the new
church or chapel on Lord Mayor's Walk, belonging to the Diocesan Training
School, which will be noticed at a subsequent page of this volume.
Protestant Dissenters. — The places of worship unconuected with the
Church of England in the city and county of York are numerous, and many
of them are large, commodious, and handsome edifices. In the city of York
there are chapels belonging to the principal denominations, except the Bap-
tists, and to most of them school rooms are attached.
Independent Chapel, Lendal, — This is a large brick building, opened
for Divine Service on the 7th of November, 1816, previously to which the
Independents occupied a little chapel in Jubbergate, which was built in
1797; but owing to the smallness of that chapel, together with the un-
pleasant situation in which it was built, as well as other circumstances, that
body of Christians made little progress in York. However, in 1814 a phm
was devised for the erection of a more commodious chapel. Lendal was fixed
upon as an eligible situation; the old chapel was sold to the Unitarian
Baptists ; and Lendal Chapel, measuring 56 feet by 64 feet, was erected at
the expense of more than £3,000., for the accommodation of 950 people. In
a few years, under the pastoral care of the Bev. James Parsons, it was found
necessary to enlarge it, so that it can now accommodate about 1,300 persons.
In consequence of the stiU increasing number of the attenders, it was re-
solved to build Salem Chapel, to which, on its completion, part of the con-
gregation, with the Rev. James Parsons, removed. The present minister of
Lendal Chapel is the Rev. Stephen St. Neotts Dobson.
Salem Chapel, (Independent. J — This edifice, which is of brick, and is
situated in Spen Lane, facing St. Saviourgate, was erected in 1888-9. The
front, which is approached by a flight of seven steps, hajs an Ionic portico or
Logia supporting an attic, after the temple of Ilisseus at Athens ; and this
portico, which exhibits two massy stone pillars, together with the two |mh
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TORE. 547
jecting wings, which complete the design of this front of the building, is dono
over with compo. The interior measures 81 feet in length, and 56 feet in
breadth, and has very spacious and well-arranged galleries. There is accom-
modation for nearly 1700 persons, and beneath the chapel is a large school
room well lighted and Tontilated. The total cost of the erection, including
the site, was £6fiOO Messrs. Pritchett and Sons, of York, were the archi-
tects. The congregation continues under the pastoral care of Bey. James
Parsons.
Wesletan Methodist Chapel, New Street, — ^This, the oldest chapel in
the city belonging to the Wesleyan body, is a large red brick building with
stone mouldings, the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of January,
1805. The Methodists of York had a place of worship in the parish of St.
Sampson prior to the year 1765 ; they afterwards assembled in a house in
Peaseholme Green, and subsequently in Grape Lane Chapel, till the present
building was erected. The edifice, which is of the Doric order, is of a semi-
octangular form, the centre terminating with a pediment, and the whole
exterior presents a good appearance. The interior is very neatly fitted up,
and is calculated to contain about 3,000 people. In the gallery is a good
organ. A^oining the chapel are two good houses for the ministers be-
longing to this society.*
Wesletan Chapel, Skeldergate, commonly called AUnon Chapel, — This
place of worship was built in 1816. It is a plain but commodious brick
erection, and contains seats for about 800 persons. Here is a good organ.
Centekabt Chapel, 8t, Saviourgate, — ^This, the largest and finest Chapel
in the city, was erected to commemorate the Centenary of Wesleyan Metho-
dism, and was opened on the 18th of July, 1840. The building is of brick,
but the front presents a fine bold stone pediment, supported by four massy
stone pillars, with capitals of the Doric order. The entrances beneath this
portico are approached by a flight of six steps. The interior is elegantly
furnished, and it will accommodate about 2,000 people. The organ cost
£500. Mr. James Simpson, of Leeds, was the architect. In the interior of
the chapel is a handsome marble tablet to the memory of Joseph Agar, Esq.,
Sheriff of York in 1813, who died January 13, 1847, aged 64 years.
St. George's Chapel, WalmgtUe, — This small chapel was erected in 1836
to meet the increasing wants of the Wesleyan body, but since the erection of
the Centenaiy Chapel it has been converted into a school.
• The BeT. John Wesley, the founder of the Methodist Society, died in 1701, and is
supposed in the oonrse of his itinerancy to have travelled nearly 300,000 miles, and to
have preached 40,000 sermons.
54S ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
The foundation stone of a new edifice, to be called Wedey Chapel, was kid
on Easter Tuesday in the present year (1856.) The site of the proposed
structure is on the ground called Trinity Gardens (near Micklegate Bar), the
entrance to which has hitherto been through an ancient gateway, which has
just been removed. Trinity Gardens, the site of the ancient Priory of the
Holy Trinity, has lately been purchased for tha purpose of forming a new
street, to connect Micklegate and BishophiU; and on the east side of the
new street, facing the city walls, and acyoining the church of Holy Trinity,
the new chapel is being erected. This building, which will contain about
1,600 sittings, of which 350 will be free for the poor, is intended to supersede
the one now occupied in Skeldergate, which is too small for the Wesleyan
body on that side of the water, and the old one will probably be converted
into schools or sold. The cost of building the new chapel will be about
£6,000., including the ground. Mr. J. Simpson, of Leeds, i» the architect
The Reformed Wesletan Methodists. — This numerous congregation
separated from the old Methodist body in 1850, and since then its members
regularly meet for religious worship in the Festival Concert Room, and in
the Lecture Hall, St. Saviourgate.
Pbimitive Methodist Chapel, Little StonegeUe, — ^This edifice, called
Ebenezer Chapel, is a large brick building, with a basement stoiy o£ stone
and stone dressings, erected in 1851. The interior is fitted up in the usual
style of Dissenting Chapels, and wiU accommodate nearly 3,000 persons.
Messrs. Pritchett and Sons were the architects. Prior to the erection of this
chapel, the Primitive Methodists worshipped in a small building in Grape
Lane, which had previously served as a meeting-house for the Baptists,
the Countess of Huntingdon's Connexion, and the Wesleysm New Con-
nexion successively. This latter building is now no longer used for the
purposes of religion.
Wesleyan Association Chapel, in Lady PeckiU's Yard, Foasgate. — ^This
place of worship, which will seat about 500, was erected in 1829. Prior to
that time the Association Methodists assembled in a house in St. Andrew^gate.
English Presbyterian Chapel, St. Saviaurgate, — Lady Hewley, who
founded an almshouse in York, is said to have contributed very liberally to
the erection of this chapel in 169S. The first regular society of Noncon-
formists in York, of which we have any record, met at the house of Mr.
Andrew Taylor, in Micklegate, an opulent merchant The Rev. Ralph Ward,
chaplain to Sir John Hewley, was one of the ministers ejected by the Act of
Uniformity, and he preached to this congregation for nearly thirty years.
He died in 1692, and his son-in-law, Dr. Thomas Coulton, succeeded to the
ECCLESUSTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK. 649
pastorate of the Prosbytenan congregation at St. Saviourgate Chapel, and so
Gontuiued for a period of nearly forty years. In 1775 the Rby. Newcome
Cappe, a pupil at the academy of Dr. Doddridge, at Northampton, was chosen
co-pastor with Mr. Hotham, and on the death of the latter in 1756, he be-
eame sole pastor. -In 1792 the age of Mr. Cappe rendered it necessary that
he should have assistance, and in that year the Rev. Charles Wellbeloved
settled in York, as assistant minister, and became pastor in 1800, when Mr.
Gappe died. Like his predecessor, Mr. Wellbeloyed's increasing years obliged
him to procure the assistance of the Rot. Henry Yaughan Palmer, who is
xtow the officiating clergyman, though Mr. Wellbeloved is the pastor of the
oongr^ation. The ecclesiastical affairs of this congregation are conducted on
the Presbyterian plan, but since the latter end of the last century, the doc-
trines preached to, and held by the persons attending the chapel, are those
of Unitarianism, and the place of worship is commonly called the Unitarian
Chapel; yet the present ministers of the chapel inform us that it is not correct
to call it by that title, though they allow that the doctrines which they teach
are Unitarian. In a communication which we have received from the Rev.
C. Wellbeloved, he says, " My religious principles are those commonly called
Unitarian ; but I do not call myself a Unitarian Minister, because I do not
consider it to be correct I am a Dissenting Minister, and belong to the
« English Presbyterians," as distinguished from the two bodies of Old Dis-
senters— Baptiste and Independente." The chapel, which is of red brick, is
cruciform in shape, with a slightly raised centre. The interior is neat and
well lighted. The organ was presented by the late Miss Rawden, of York ;
and it may be here noticed that this was the first Dissenting Chapel in York
into which an organ was introduced. There are several mural tablete in this
ohapol, amongst which is one to the memory of the Rev. Newcome Cappe.
Fbiends' Meeting House, Friargate, — Prior to the year 1673 the Society
of Friends, commonly called Quakers,* held their meetings at the house of
Edward Nightingale, an eminent grocer of that persuasion in High Ousegate;
but in that year a small meeting house was erected on the spot upon which
now stand the very commodious premises of the Society. The body having
considerably increased, the old erection was enlarged nearly one-third, between
• The ** Society of Friends " oxigmated about the year 1640, through the religious
teachings of Qeorge Fox, a native of Drayton, in Leicestershire. Their popular desig-
nation of " Quakers" is said to have arisen from the circumstance of Fox having told a
magistrate, before whom he was brought, " to tremble at the word of the Lord," as pro-
pounded by him. The Quakers believe in the Unity and Trinity of God, but they alrj^^
all extanial rites, especially the Saonunents of Baptism, and the Lord's Sapper.
560 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
fifty and sixty years ago ; and adjoining to that another building was erected
in 1718, intended chiefly for the use of the qnartedy meetings then held at
York This erection being found inconvenient, was nearly all taken down in
1816, when an enlarged and more commodious erection was commenced,
which is capable of containing about 1,000 people. On the premises is a
small library, containing a collection of books, written both in &TOur and
against the principles of this peculiar sect of Christians. The premises,
which consist of two red brick buildings, contiguous to each other, are devmd
of ornament, but the interior is neat and well arranged. The principal en-
trance to the meeting house is in Gastlegate. The society haye a burial
ground in Garr*s Lane, Bishophill. In it are interred the remains of Lindl^
Murray, the grammarain, and John Woohnan, who first roused public atten-
tion in America to the crying evil of slavery.
Besides the chapel in Grape Lane, already mentioned, as having been
from time to time in the possession of several district bodies or sects ; there
is a small building at the bottom of the same lane, which was formeriy the
place of meeting of a sect called Sandemanians, This building is now con-
verted into a dwelling house ; but the second story of it is used as a chapel
by the Latter Day Saints.
The Sioedenborgians meet for public worship in a large room in Qood-
ramgate.
Catholics. — Catholicism has made rapid strides in this city and county,
and indeed all through the kingdom, of late years ; and its churches and
chapels (some of them truly magnificent edifices) are now to be found in
almost every town of consequence. Dr. Thomas Watson, of Lincoln, who
was the last Catholic Bishop ordained in England previous to the reign of
Queen Elizabeth, died in prison, in 1584, when the Catholic church in tins
country was reduced to the state of a foreign mission under the Holy See,
which placed the secular clergy under an archpriest (the Rev. G. Blackwell)
with episcopal authority, which continued till 1628, when Dr. Bishop was
consecrated Bishop of Ghalcedon, and placed at the head of the English
Catholics. He was succeeded in 16d6 by Dr. Richard Smith, President of
the English College at Rome, who died in 1655. The Roman Chapter ex-
ercised episcopal jurisdiction in England from this period till 1685, irhai
Dr. John Leyboum was appointed Vicar Apostolic ; and in the following
year England was divided into four districts, viz. — ^London, Western, Mid-
land, and Northern, and Vicars Apostolic, Bishops in partibtts placed over
them. In 1840 it was found necessary, from the great increase of Catholics
in all parts of the kingdom, to subdivide it into eight districts, viz. — ^L<mdon,
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 651
Eastern, Western, Central, Lancashire, Yorkshire, Wales, and Northern.
Thus it continued till the year 1850, when the present Pope (Pius IX.) ab-
rogated and annulled all previous arrangements, and for Vicars Apostolic
appointed by himself and removable at his pleasure, substituted an ordinary
hierarchy of Bishops, to be elected by the clergy of the respective dioceses.
By the same rescript the former eight districts were subdivided into thirteen
dioceses ; the titles of the bishops were changed from sees in Asia now ex-
tinct, to new sees in this country ; and the Catholic Church in England was
formed into an ecclesiastical province, composed of an Archbishop, or Metro-
politan, and of twelve Bishops, his suffiragans, who take their titles from the
following places: — ^Westminster, Beverley, Birmingham, Clifton, Hexham,
Liverpool, Newport, Northampton, Nottingham, Plymouth, Salford, Shrews-
bury, and Southwark. Westminster was constituted the Archiepiscopal See,
and Dr. Nicholas Wiseman, Bishop of Melipotamus, and Vicar Apostolic of
the London District, was raised to the dignity of a Cardinal, and appointed
first Archbishop of Westminster, thus becoming Primate and Metropolitan of
the Catholic Church in England.
Dr. Briggs, the Bishop of Trachis, and Vicar Apostolic of the Yorkshire
district, was translated from Trachis, to the new See of Beverley, by the same
papal brief or rescript, on the 29th of September, 1850. The revival of the
Catholic hierarchy was deemed, by a minority of the people of England, an
insult to the Queen's Majesty, and a great '' Papal Aggression ; '* and in conse-
quence of it the kingdom was, for some months, in a state of great excitement.
Much has been said and written in defence as well as in condemnation of this
proceeding on the part of the Pope and the Catholic body, but with the merits
or demerits of the measure, we, as simple chroniclers, have no concern beyond
that of placing the circumstance on record in connexion with the Catholic
ecclesiastical establishments of York. The Parliament expressed their oppo-
sition to the measure by introducing and passing a bill, entitled " The Eccle-
siastical Titles Assumption Act," which declared that the titles conferred " or
pretended to be conferred " by any " briefs, rescripts, or letters apostolical,
and all and every the jurisdiction, authority, preeminence," thereby granted
by the Pope, " are, and shall be deemed, unlawful and void." However this
Act does not seem to have e£fected the new prelates in any way, for since the
bill became law they have not been interfered with by any party, though we
believe they have since publicly performed the duties of Bishops of their
respective Sees, as weU as held synods, ordinations, &c. ; and their spiritual
subjects do not hold them in less reverence, or their office in less respect,
because an Act of Parliament has declared their titles unlawful and void.
55S ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
As has been before intimated, the Right Rev. John Briggs, D.D., under
the prohibited title of the '* Bishop of Beverlej/' has the spiritual chaige of
the Catholics of Yorkshire, from whom he invariablj receives the title of " mj
Lord ;" and he is assisted in the goyemment of his " diocese " by a Prorost,
and a Chapter consisting of ten Canons. The church which we now pro-
ceed to describe, is used as a temporary Cathedral.
Catholic Chubch op St. George, Su George Street. — The chapel in
Little Blake Street having hecome inadequate to the requirements of the
Catholics of York, in consequence of their increasing numbers, the present
building was erected, and opened for Divine worship in the year 1850. It
is a handsome structure, covering an area of 105 feet by 55 feet, exclusive of
porch and sacristies, and is in the Early Decorated style of architecture.
Externally it presents three gabled roofs, covering the nave and aisles re-
spectively, that of the nave being much higher than the aisles. There is also
a chancel and south porch. The west front is in three divisions, which are
marked by buttresses. In the centre division (being the west end of the
nave) is a pointed doorway, with a deeply-moulded arch springing from four
small circular pillars, with flower- worked capitals ; the weather cornice resting
on a mitred head on one side, and a female coronetted head on the other.
Above this doorway is a pointed window of three lights. In the west end of
each of the aisles is a window of two lights, and the three gables of this teoni
of the building are finished with a plain moulding, and crowned with neatly
executed crosses. The south side is made into six divisions by buttresses,
one of which contains a very neat porch, with a fine moulded doorway, the
apex being surmounted with a cross ; and in the other divisions are good
windows of two lights, except the easternmost one, which is of three lights.
In the second buttress from the east end is a niche containing a spirited
figure of the patron, St George, clothed in armour, with the point of his
sword piercing the dragon's head. The east end of the edifice presents two
gables only, the vestries being at that end of the north aisle. The east or
chancel window, which is large and handsome, consists of four lights, and
the window in the east end of the south aisle is of three lights. The apexes
of the roof at the east end are crowned with crosses ; and over the janctioD
of the nave and chancel is a double belfry, consisting of double-moulded
arches, with a quatrefoil opening over them, surmounted by a high pitched
gable, and richly floriated cross, representing the Crucifixion of Our LonL
The top of this cross is sixty-five feet from the ground, and the belfiy contains
two good bells. The whole of the windows in the east, west, and south sides
have weather mouldings, resting on elegantly carved heads of bishops, nuns,
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK. 553
saints, &c. ; bat those on the north side — each of which are of two lights —
have not this ornament. The entire building is finished with a plain mould-
ing. The interior is plainly but neatly furnished with open seats, &c. The
naTe is divided from the aisles by five graceful arches on each side, springing
from octangular columns, with moulded capitals. The roof is high pitched
and open ; and there is a small gallery at the west end of the navCj in which
is the organ. The chancel is divided from the nave by an archway, with
hood moulds and carved heads, supported upon triple clustered pillars ; and
in this arch is a carved open rood screen of wood, on the top of which is
a large and well executed representation of the Crucifixion of Our Redeemer
(a piece of ancient sculpture brought from the continent), with carved figures
of the Blessed Virgin and St. John the Evangelist on either side. The
chancel is very elegantly and chastely adorned. The altar is of Caen stone,
highly enriched with carving and gilding. It is made into three divisions
by shields — on the centre one of which is a carved representation of the
Cmcifixion ; and the subjects of the others are Christ carrying the Cross,
and his Entombment. The tabernacle and the reredos, or screen behind the
altar, are extremely rich in decoration. The chancel ceiling is arched in
wood, and divided into seventy-two panels by wood mouldings ; the whole is
enriched by painting and gilding. The lamp and candelabra are handsome ;
on the right side of the altar is a piscina, and on the left a locker. The east
window is filled with stained glass by Hardman, of Birmingham, and con-
tains figures of Our Saviour, the Blessed Virgin, St. Mary Magdalen, St.
George slaying the Dragon, Christ raising Lazarus to Life, &c. At the east
end of the south aisle, and divided from the chancel by an arch, in which is
an open screen, is the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, generally called the
Lady Chapel. This presents an appearance similar to the chancel just de-
scribed. It is divided from the aisle by a stone screen, of Gothic design,
which is extremely beautiful ; and in the upper part of which is a highly-
wrought niche, with most elaborate tabernacle work, containing a statuette
of the Blessed Virgin and Divine Child. The Caen stone altar and reredos
are splendidly sculptured. The former is in four parts, divided by highly-
polished marble pillars, and contains representations of the Blessed Virgin
and Infant Saviour, and St. Joseph, with angels bearing scrolls ; and in the
latter are niches containing sculptures of the Annunciation, with vases and
lilies. The stained glass window over this altar is by Messrs. Bamett, late
of York, and amongst the subjects represented on it, are the Crucifixion and
the Virgin and Child. The other window in this chapel is also filled with
stained glass by the same artists, and contains several subjects from the life
4 B
554 KCCLi:SIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YORK.
of Our Lord. The silver lamp, which is suspended before the iJtar, is Teiy
clegaut; and the piscina is in the usual place. The west window of the
south aisle is also adorned with stained glass (this and the last noticed one
being memorial windows), but all the other windows are glazed with Cathe-
dral glass, having coloured borders. The pulpit, which is small, is of stone,
and the font is octagonal — ^four of the sides having symbolical carvings. The
original cost of the shell of the building was £3,300., and that of the site was
£l,t25(). ; but several large sums have since been expended upon it from tutu?
to time. Messrs. Joseph and Charles Hansom were the architects of the
building, and Mr. lialph Weatherley, of York, was the builder. The desigii
of the screen, altaf, and reredos of the Lady Chapel (being a more lecent
work), is from the pencil of Mr. Charles Hansom. Adyoining the church are
largo schools, which will be noticed at a subsequent page.
Chapel of St. Wilfrid, Little Blake Street, — This chapel, which wfc?
built in 180S, is 71 feet long by 44 feet wide, and 30 feet high, and will ac-
commodate about 700 people. There is nothing particularly worthy of notice,
except the full-length frescoes in and about the sanctuary. Those withiu the
altar rails represent the Crucifixion, with the figures of the Blessed Viii^,
St. John, and St. Mary Magdalen (in the centre), and the four Evang^ats
on the sides. Over the vestry doors are full-lengths of St. Peter and St
Paul, and some allegorical subjects. The ceiling of the sanctuary is richly
decorated. There is a commodious gallery at the west end, and in the south
side is a small gallery or loft for the organ and chiHr. Annexed to this
chapel is the presbyteiy, or residence of the priests ; and at the rear of a
house nearly opposite to the latter, is a large room, which had been used as
a place of worship by the Catholics, previous to the erection of the present
chapel. Tradition points to an upper room in that house as a place when'
the rites of the Catholic Church were celebrated at a period in histoiy when
Catholicity in this country lay trodden to the grmrnd ; when its professors
skulked from the public gaze like timorous slaves, and for the practice ot
their religion assembled in back lanes, in garrets, and seoret chambeiB. Ye^
this is one of the last of the garret rooms which carry us back to the tirae^
when our fathers were driven by persecution to serve God in seoreoy and fear.
York is the place of residence of the spiritual chief of the Catholics of York-
shire — Dr. Briggs — and tlie Cathdio clergy of the city are the Vety IWt.
Joseph Render, V.G., the Rev. William Fisher, and the Rev. Joseph Greaiy.~
• It may be observed that before the BeibrmadoQ, and for somo time after, pne>&t-
eigoyed the knighUy title of " Sir."
ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK. 555
In connexion \nth the Catholics of York and its vicinity, a branch of the
charitable fraternity called the Society of St. Vincent de Paul was established
in the beginning of the year 1859, and united with the parent society in
Paris, under the presidency of Edwd. Widdrington RiddeU, Esq., of Bootham
House, York. The following items, taken from the second annual report of
the York Conference of the Society, will explain its objects. During the year
1853, the brethren yisited 109 families — some of them twice and some three
times a week — ^the whole number of visits amounting to 18,104. Of the
children belonging to these poor families, 190 boys and 80 girls have been
kept from begging. The gross number attending the poor school was 158,
of which number 88 were boys and 70 girls, and included in this number
were 13 orphans, who were fed, clothed, and lodged, by the conference, and
who will be sent out to service according as suitable situations offer. In
addition to these orphans, 39 others received one substantial meal each day,
and the whole number attending the schools were provided with a meal every
Sunday. The total number of meals given during that year was 21,894 ;
besides which large quantities of bread and soup had, from time to time, been
distributed to deserving objects, and a large quantity of clothing was pro-
vided and distributed among the poor. The girls on the orphan list had
been instructed to make their own bread, and do other household business,
in the kitchen attached to the schools, in order to make them good and
nseful servants; and have been instructed in the necessary departments of
needlework by the ladies of the Convent of St. Mary, York. The weekly
consumption of bread in the Charity School, for the year, was about sixteen
stones. The society derives its support from the donations and subscrip.
tions of its members and friends. Mr. John Keller is the secretary.
There is also a branch of another brotherhood in connexion with the
Catholic body of York, called the Young Men's Society, which was established
here, on the 6th of August 1854, by the founder of the fraternity, the Rev.
Dr. O'Brien, of All Hallows Missionary CoUege, Dublin, aided by the clergy
of the city. From the publiahed rules we learn that the object of this society
is, " to put down sin and fialsehood, and to extend virtue, intelligence, truth,
and brotherly love," by means of prayer, good example, lectures, spiritual
reading, a regular observance of the sacraments, the practise of all Christian
virtues, particularly that of charity, by discountenancing sin of all kinds, and
by labouring for the extension of the society. The greater part of this
society have been formed into a Temperance Guild. Mr. Keller is also
secretary to this fraternity.
566 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF TOBK.
Nunnery or Convent op St. Mart. — ^This establishment is situated
without Micklegate Bar, and is a large handsome red brick structure, at tlie
rear of which are extensive gardens. A building near the site of the present
appears to have been purchased in 1686, for the establishment of a boardiiig
school for joung ladies of the Catholic religion. Since that time Yarious
alterations and additions have been made, both to the buildings and the
discipline observed within them. To it was subsequently united a convoit
of nuns, or a community of religious, called the Institute of ReUgious L/tdies ;
who, having quitted the world, devote themselves entirely to the instruc-
tion of youth. The daughters of the Catholic nobility, gentry, and respec-
table classes are educated within these walls. For some years past the
number of boarders has not exceeded fifty, but in former years it was upwards
of eighty. In 1844 a large addition was made to the size of the establish-
ment, by the erection of an extensive building containing spacious school
rooms. Previous to the opening of the schools attached to St. George's
Church, a number of poor girls were here taught by the nuns gratuitously ;
but their place has since been suppUed by a school for extems of the middle
class, and a poor school for infants. The female schools adjoining the just
mentioned church are still conducted by the sisters of this community.
The buildings of the convent, schools, &c,, comprise a square, in the
centre of which is a small court yard. The internal arrangement of the
building is admirable, and the school rooms are perhaps unequalled in the
kingdom for size, ventilation, &c.
The Chapel, which is cruciform in shape, is splendidly furnished and deco-
rated, and the intersection is surmounted by an el^ant dome, supported by
eight fluted columns. The altar, tabernacle, &c., are rich in the extreme, and
there are several excellent paintings. In the screen work is some very fine
carving ; the stalls for the nuns range on both sides of the chapel ; the slver
lamp of the sanctuary is of the most chaste design ; and the organ stands on
a small gallery at the west end. One of the transepts is elegantly fitted up
as the Lady Chapel, and over the altar is a beautiful statuette of the Blessed
Virgin, whilst in the corresponding transept is a very elegant image of St.
Joseph. The gardens are arranged with much taste, and the play ground is
extensive. Adjoining the gardens is the burial place of the sisterhood, and
in it is a neat oratory. Mrs. Browne is the present superioress of the Con-
vent, or, as she is usually styled by the members of her community, and
indeed, by the Catholics in general, the " Reverend Mother." The present
chaplain is the Rev. Francis Callebert.
The Catholic Schools of York will be noticed at subsequent pages.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YORK. 557
PUBLIC SCHOOLS.— 5ft. Peter's Bayal Grammar School-^Aa we have
seen at page 498, the site and lands of the dissolved Hospital of St Maiy Mag-
dalen, in Bootham, were, by a grant from Philip and Mary, appropriated to the
maintenance of a free grammar school, under the government of the Dean and
Chapter of the Cathedral of York ; and the rectorial tithes of Stillingfleet
were sabsequendy given for the same purpose. In addition to this endow-
ment, Robert Dallison, Chanter of the Cathedral Church of Lincoln, granted
to the Dean and Chapter of York an annuity of four pounds, issuing out of
the manor of Hartesholm, in the county of Lincoln, which was appropriated
to this school. The Dean and Chapter being the trustees, always appoint
the master, and the school is frequently called the Cathedral Orammar School,
The income of the master has been considerably augmented by purchasing
property, with the fines paid on the renewal of certain lands devoted to the
purpose. In 1898 the school was placed under the existing regulations.
The number of free scholars was formerly about twenty-three, but of late
years the number has been considerably reduced. There are now eight
foundation scholars, who receive board, lodging, and education, free of expense
for four years ; and there are also eight ^re^ scholars, who are educated free for
the same period. The foundation scholars and the free boys are chosen at
an examination, held in June in each year, for their proficiency in certain
studies ; and an exhibition or annual stipend of £50. for three years is annu-
ally awarded to the best qualified pupil, provided he becomes a student in
either of the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, Durham, or Dublin. The
yearly examination is conducted by a graduate of one of the Universities, ap-
pointed by the Dean and Chapter ; every boy who has been in the school one
year, and is under 15 years of age, is eligible for the scholarships and the
exhibition, which are awarded solely on the ground of merit. This school
possesses likewise the privilege of sending a boy every five years to Aberford,
to contend for Lady Betty Hastings's exhibition, which is worth about £100.
a year for five years. The boys not on the foandation pay a tuition fee of
£10., and £45. in addition is the chaise for board and lodging. The building
will accommodate 80 boarders, and about 300 scholars altogether; and the
present number is about 150. The head-master is the Rev. William Hey,
M.A., late Fellow of St John's College, Cambridge, and a Canon of the
Cathedral of York.
This school was formerly held in the desecrated church of St. Andrew,
from which it was removed to the building in the Minster Yard, now used as
a School of Design, and finally, in 1844, the Proprietary or Collegiate School,
which was the property of a Joint Stock Company, was purchased by the
558 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF TORE.
Dean and Chapter for St. Peter*8 School^ and the two schools were united in
the Midsummer of that year.
The School Premitei are well sitoated in Bootham, and the building, wMch
was erected in 1837-8, is a handsome stnictore in the Tndor stjle ; the front
being of cat stone, from the qoarries of Bramham Moor, and the remainder
of brick, with cut stone dressings. The design of the bnilding is veiy ele-
gant, and its external appearance has a rery pleasing eflfect. It comprises a
central hall, class rooms, library, and boarding house. The centre has a
deeply-moulded doorway, over which is a balustrade or screen of perforated
quatrefoila, above which is a fine bay window, surmounted by a perforated
balustrade. At each side of the door and window, or rather the angles of
this central portion of the design, rise two elegant pillars, ornamented with
carved heads, shields, niches, and pedestals, terminating in turrets, between
which the front rakes up to a gable. On each side of this centre is a range
of buildings, and at the left side is a large wing, and to cany out the design
of the architect, a corresponding wing will probably be built on the right side
at a future day. There is a fine bay window at the back of the centre por-
tion of the building. The grounds extend over four acres.
Holgate's Fre$ Orammar Sehool, Ogleforth. — ^This school was erected and
endowed within the Close of the Cathedral, by Robert Holgate, D.D., Arch-
bishop of York, by letters patent granted by King Henry VUI., on the 94th
of October, 1546 ; and the master was bound to attend daily, " to teach
grammar and godly learning, freely, without taking any stipend or wages."
At the time the commissioners made their report on this charity, the property
of the school was valued at upwards of £860. per annum ; and there wen
only seventeen boys on the foundation. This, together with the other cha-
rities of Archbishop Holgate, having been shamefully mismanaged add neg-
lected, are now undergoing enquiry in the Court of Chancery. The school
is held in a commodious room in a yard in the above-named street The
Rev. Robert Daniel, B.D., is the present master.
The York Dioceion School Society was established for the promotion of a
system of religious and useful education throughout tho Diocese of York} io
the principles of the Church of England, and in union with the National So-
ciety in London. The Society consists of members of the Church of England,
paying an annual subscription to the objects of the Society, and of donors d
iSlO. and upwards. The Lord Archbishop of the Diocese is ex-officio Presi-
dent, and the three Archdeacons of the Diocese are exofficio Yice-Presid^ts
of the Society. The list of Vice-Presidents includes the names of the c\nd
nobility and gentry of the county.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YOBK. 559
The York and Bipon Diocesan Training iMtitution, having for its object
the training of schoolmasters and schoohnistresses for the National Schools,
and also the Yorkshire Yeoman School, were established in furtherance of
the oljects of the Diocesan School Society. The training school for masters
is under the direction of a Principal, a Vice-Principal, and under masters.
Pupils are either ordinary, being such as in order to become national school
masters, desire to submit themselves to the appointed course of training ; or
extra-ordinary, being such as already having charge, or being engaged to taJ&e
chaise of a school in union with the Diocesan Society, desire to avail them-
selves of the advantages which the institution affords for their improvement.
£xcept in cases where it may be otherwise determined by the committee of
management, no one is to commence residence in the training school before
the age of 17, or after the 25th year of his age. The full course of training
extends over three years, but suitable schools, according to the qualifications
of each, will be sought for students whose circumstances do not permit them
to complete the full course. Ordinary pupils are all resident in the training
school, and the terms are very moderate, being £35. per annum, including
board and lodging, medical attendance, books, and stationery. Extra-ordi-
nary pupils, if resident within the institution, pay for their board, &c., 13s.
per week ; if non-resident, 6s. per week. There is accommodation for fifty-
five pupils. Attached to this institution is a Day School for boys over seven
years of age, the terms £>r which are one guinea per quarter, payable in ad-
vance. Latin and modem languages, if required, to be paid for as extras.
The present Principal of the institution for schoobnasters is the Rev. Hugh
G. Robinson, M.A. ; and the Rev. G. Rowe is the Vice-Principal. The age
of admission to the female training institution is seventeen ; the terms of
admission, including board and lodging, are iS18. per annum, paid quarterly
in advance. Pupils extra-ordinary, if resident within the institution, are
chaiiged 10s. 6d. per week ; if non-resident, 4s. per week. There is accom-
modation for thirty pupils. Attached to the institution is a middle school
and a day school for girls, the latter of which serves as a practising school
for the pupils of the training school. The Superintendent is Miss Cruse.
The York Yeoman School, which is under the same superintendence as the
Training School, owes its establishment to a suggestion made by the present
Earl of Carlisle in 1845, and in the following year the school was founded,
for the purpose of affording a good education on moderate terms, to the sons
of the middle or yeoman class. The terms, including board* lodging, and
medical attendance, are twenty-one guineas per annum ; and pupils are ad-
missible at the age of seven years ; and there is accommodation for seventy-
560 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF TOBK.
five pupils. The committee of management of the schools indades the Arch-
bishop of York, the Bishop of Ripon, the Deans and Archdeacons of the two
dioceses, the Earl of Carlisle, Lord Feversham, Lord Wenlock, Sir J. V. B.
Johnstone, Bart., the Hon. P. Dawnay, and several distinguished clergjrmen.
The edifice of the Training School for males forms an extensive pile,
on Lord Mayor*s Walk, erected in 1846, by public subscription, at a cost
of about £16,000. The style of architecture is late or domestic Gothic.
Exteriorly it presents a centre and two wings, and it consists of a house
for the Principal, rooms for the Vice-Principal and five masters, haU, dass
rooms, library, &c. The whole pile is constructed of brick, without stone
dressings. The firont or centre is supported by four half pillars, tenninsr
ting in pinnacles ; and over the entrance is a bay or oriel window. The Yeo-
man School occupies a separate building, on a line with and at the north-west
end of the training institution. It was erected also in 1846, in the same
style as the training school ; and is a range of buildings, both ends of which
project and exhibit gables. The Chapel is built of hammer-dressed stones,
with cut stone facings, and the style of the architecture is the Decorated.
The sides are made into five divisions by buttresses, in each of which (except
those containing the doorways^ is a window of two lights. The chancel win-
dow is of five lights, and the window at the west end is of three lights. The
interior is very neatly and appropriately furnished with open seats. The roof
is open, the spandrils resting on corbels, on which are caired angels holding
musical instruments. The floor of the chancel is tesselated, and there are
two stone seats, or sedilia, in the wall, with Gothic canopies. The Principal
and Vice-Principal, masters and mistresses, pupils from the male and female
training schools, and scholars, attend divine service here daily. The Prin-
cipal is also Chaplain to the institution. The site of the buildings, gardens,
and recreation ground occupies five and a half acres.
The Training InstUutionfar Schoolmistresus is a large house in Monkgate,
formerly used as a College for Dissenters, but that establishment was removed
to Manchester in 1840.
Oovemment School of Design, Minster Yard. — ^This excellent institution,
which is a branch of the department of practical art, Marlborough Houae,
London, was established in September, 1843, by means of a grant of mofney
from government, obtained chiefly by the active exertions of Mr. Etty, ILA.,
the celebrated painter, who died in this his native city, in 1850. A oon-
siderable sum was also raised by subscription, and the school is now sap-
ported by a government grant, by local subscriptions, and the fees paid by
the students; the latter are almost nominal. The object of the institute is
PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YORK. 561
** to conTey instruction in the arts of drawing and design, and the principles
of the fine arts generally, to persons of the humbler classes, with a view to
the fostering of British skill in those departments of manufacture which de-
pend for their excellence on the artistic abilities of the designer." The school
possesses a good collection of casts of ornaments and figures from the antique,
and a small collection of illustrated works on ornament. There are morning,
afternoon, and evening classes held daily ; that in the afternoon is for female
students exclusiyely ; and the course of study includes a great variety of sub-
jects. Mr. Archibald Cole is the master appointed by government
The school is held in a neat cut stone building (formerly St. Peter's School),
near the east end of the Minster. The structure consists of a centre and two
wings; the centre has an arcade of three arches, above which are three
square-headed windows ; and the ends of the wings have each a fine pointed
arched window of five lights. The angles of the wings are supported by oc-
tangular pillars or turrets, and the top of the whole front is embattled.
Yorkshire School for the Blind, Bootham. — This school was instituted in
1834, as a memorial of William Wilberforce, the philanthropist — ^the im-
mortal opponent of negro slavery — who represented Yorkshire in six succes-
sive Parliaments. On the drd of October, 1833, a meeting was held in the
Festival Concert Room, York, attended by the Archbishop, Lord Brougham
(then Lord Chancellor), and a large number of the nobility, clergy, and
gentry of Yorkshire, to consider the best means of testifying the sense enter-
tained by the county of the merit and services of Mr. Wilberforce ; and with
good judgment and taste they resolved to found an institution for the education
of indigent children of both sexes, who, by birth or accident, had been de-
prived of sight ; such a memorial being considered more appropriate to one
whose life was devoted to works of benevolence and utility, than any monument,
however splendid, in brass or marble. The establishment of this institution,
as a WUbetforce Memorial, was the result of this meeting, and in the foUow-
ing year application was made to Government for a lease of the Manor House,
and the grounds attached to it, which were at once granted for ninety-nine
years, at a rent of £116. per annum, and since that time the School for the
Blind has been in active operation. The rules of this excellent charity have
been in a measure recommended to the Belgian Government, by a commission
appointed to report on the best means of educating the blind ; and in France
they have been published, and received some attention. Under its excellent
mode of management, the school at York has become one of the most efficient
establishments of the kind in Europe. All the pupils receive such instruction
in some useful branch of handicraft, as may enable them to obtain a liveli-
4 c
50'-^ PIULK bCilOoLS OF YonK.
hood, attention being at the same time paid to their moral and religious edu-
cation ; and those who are susceptible of a musical education, are instructed
in that science ; several of them have made sufficient progress to qualify them
to act as organists in different churches. The principal of the mechanical
arts taught are the making of baskets and mats, knitted and netted work of
all kinds, and ornamental hair-work. A variety of these articles is always
kept on hand for public sale. The studies in which the pupils have made
the most progress, have been reading, arithmetic, geography, scripture his-
tory, &c. An apparatus for printing in raised letters has lately been obtained
for the institution, and a Museum for objects, that wUl admit of being
handled, is in course of formation. The pupils are allowed to attend at the
places of religious worship which their parents may desire; or which, if
adults, they may themselves prefer.
A weekly practice of music is usually held in a laige room in the institu-
tion, in which there is a good organ, on Thursdays, at two o'clock, at which
the public are admitted on the payment of sixpence each ; and so high a state
of proficiency have the pupils attained, that in the summer time the com-
mittee occasionally take a selection of them to the neighbouring towns, where
they give public concerts. The school is supported principally by means of
subscription. Every pupil pays towards his maintenance and clothing a sum
fixed by the committee ; and the children of wealthier parents are admitted
to receive tuition on such terms as may be beneficial to the instituttoo.
The number of pupils that can be accommodated in the school is sixty-five.
In 1843 the very handsome bequest of j05,OOO. was left to this charity by the
late Dr. Beckwith, of York. The Rt. Hon. the Earl Fitzwilliam is the pre-
sident of the institution, and amongst the vice-presidents and trustees are the
Duke of Sutherland, the Earl of Carlisle, and Lord Wenlock.
The Btnlding occupied by this School was formerly caUed the Kii^ s
Manor, it having been originally erected by Henry VJJJl. (See page S43.)
Blue Coat Bays School, Peaseholme Green. — ^This institution, which is one
of the noblest of the York charities, was established in 1705, by the Ixod
Mayor and Corporation of the city, for educating, cbihing, feeding, and
apprenticing forty boys ; the Corporation provided the outfit for the estab-
lishment, and a fund for defraying the annual expenses was formed by a
voluntary and general subscription amongst the inhalHtants, which amounted,
at the first opening of the school, to JSldO. per annum ; but it is now greatly
augmented, and in consequence of the ample funds of the charity the number
of boys has been increaaed to seventy, and another similar institution lor the
other sex, called the Grey Coat Girls* School, has been united to it Thero
PUBT.IC SCHOOLS OF YORK. 56S
are forty*four children in the latter school. The bojs are admitted at the
age of nine years, and at the age of fourteen they are bound apprentices to
suitable trades. The annual subscriptions to the charity are considerable,
and the real estates belonging to it valuable. About the year 1820, Thomas
Wilkinson, Esq., of Highthome, late an Alderman of York, bequeathed to the
institution the munificent legacy of £4,000. The present master and matron
are Mr. and Mrs. Etches. The building in which the boys' school is held
is known as St. Anthcny's Hall, and a description of it will be found at page
499 of this history.
Qrey Coat GirW School, Monkgate. — This school is supported by the same
funds, and is under the same rules and regulations, as that of the school just
noticed. The children are educated, fed, lodged, and clothed, as weU as
trained up for domestic servants ; and are afterwards placed out to household
service. It appears that the girls' school was held in a building in Mary-
gate till 1784, when the site of the present edifice was purchased, and a
school house erected thereon, It is a large commodious brick building, with
a spacious area or court in front.
Spinning School, St. Andrewgate. — Two benevolent ladies of York — Mrs.
Cappe and Mrs. Gray — ^founded this establishment about the year 1783.
There was then in York a hemp manufactory, in which several children were
employed, and the object of the foundresses of this school, was to have those
children taught to read and sew after the business of the manufactory was
over. This plan was adopted, but the evil e^tamples of the day destroyed aU
the good impressions of evening instruction ; and it was found necessary to
remove them entirely from such a nursery of vice. With this view several
other ladies joined the original foundresses, and a school for spinning worsted
was soon established, in which each girl received the wages of her labours.
In 1786 a knitting school was added, and in 1797 a second subscription was
proposed to supply the girls with milk and breakfast. The school is still
supported by donations and annual subscriptions ; but though the original
name is retained, spinning is no longer attended to, the children being at the
present chiefly employed in sewing and knitting. The school is held in two
good rooms. The number of girls taught is sixty, one half being taught to
read and knit in the junior school on the ground floor, and the other half
taught to read, write, and sew, in the upper room. All the children are in-
structed gratuitously, receive their breakfasts daily, except on Sundays, and
are partially clothed. The charity is managed by a committee of ladies, and
the schools are conducted by two schoolmistresses.
The York Female Friendly Society, which is in connexion with the Spin-
604 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF TORE.
ning School, and the York Grey Coat Giris' School, was institated chieflj
for the benefit of the poor girls educated in these schools, in the year 1788.
It consists of honorary members and general members, the former being
those who contribute six shillings or upwards per annum, but receive no
benefit or advantage from thence ; and the latter, those who contribute to
the funds, and are entitled to its benefits in cases of sickness, &c. There is
also a private fund formed by the contributions of the ladies for the fui^
ther relief of the benefitted members of the society ; and an annuity fund for
affording annuities of forty shillings a year for life to such benefitted or general
members as have attained the age of 55 years. The latter fund con^sts of
£1000., three per cent, consolidated bank annuities, which has been pur-
chased by means of the subscriptions and donations of honoraiy members,
without any aid from the general members. The affairs of the society are
managed by some of the benevolent ladies of the city. Mrs. Salmand,
Minster Yard, is the Treasurer.
Wilson*8 Charity Schools, — ^These schools were instituted in connexion with
an hospital or almshouse for poor women, which was founded and endowed
by Mrs. ETorothy Wilson, a maiden lady, in the year 1717. The boys* school
is held in the hospital in Walmgate, adjoining Foss Bridge, and the giris*
school in the Merchants' Hall, Fossgate. The number of boys is 50, the
number of girls 20, and both boys and girls are educated and clothed giBr
tuitously. There are schools also at Nun-Monkton and Skipwith, supported
out of the funds of this charity.
Indmtrial Ragged School. — ^This excellent institution occupies a portion of
the Old Workhouse in Marygate, and has for its object to provide food,
clothing, and a sound Christian education, with industrial employment, for
the mendicant and destitute children of the city of York. It was established
in October, 1847, by some benevolent individuals, whose efforts have been
crowned with considerable success. It was for some time held in confined
apartments in the Bedem. The present building was purchased in 1850,
for the sum of £505. About eighty children, of both sexes, on an average
in winter, and about half that number in summer, attend, and are taught
reading, writing, and arithmetic, as well as some industrial handicraft Ail
the children receive three meals daily, and a few of them reside in the school.
The children go out to work when required, and the pence which they eara
are placed in a savings* bank, in their own names, and with additions made
to these sums, clothes are purchased for them. The government of the in-
stitution is vested in the committee of directors, bourd of trustees, and a
ladies* committee. The president of the institution is the Earl of Cariisle.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YORK. 565
Dod8WOfth*i Schools, — John Dodswortb, fonnerly an ironmonger, founded
and endowed three schools for boys in York, and one at Nether Poppleton,
about the year 1708. Those in the city are situated on Bishophill, near the
Friar's Walls, on the north bank of the Ouse, and in Lawrence Street. The
buildings are arranged so as to afford rooms for the teachers to reside in, and
the present annual value of the endowment is JSd4. 3s. Od. This sum is di-
vided into five parts — ^£6. 168. 6d. is paid to each of the four schoolmasters,
and a like sum is retained as a reparation fund.
Haughton'i Charity School, in Golliergate, near the Church of St Crux,
was founded and endowed in 1773, by William Haughton, who at one time
had been a dancing master in the city, for the gratuitous education of twenty
poor boys of the parish of St. Crux. The endowment consisted of JS 1,800.
the interest of which, together with certain annuities, was to be applied to
the instruction of the aforesaid number of poor children, and the Lord Mayor
and Recorder, in conjunction with the minister, churchwardens, and over-
seers of the parish of St. Crux, were appointed trustees. Up to the year
1838 the boys were taught simply to read, but in that year the parishioners
and other fidends of education in the city made an active effdtt, and the
school was thrown open to a larger number of scholars, and a good commer-
cial education was secured for them. There are now forfy boys enjoying the
advantages of this charity, and Hhe schoolmaster's salary is £180. per annum.
National Schools. — These schools were first established in 1812, and
are under the management of a sub-committee of the York Diocesan Board
of Education.
The Manor Central National School^ for boys and infants, occupies part of
the old Manor Palace, a description of which is given at page 343 of this
history. The large school room is the reputed Banqueting Hall of the
Palace, and the room used as a Catholic Chapel in the time of James U. It
was subsequently converted into an Assembly Boom.
The Aldwark National School, for girls and infants, is held in the Merchant
Tailors* Hall, Aldwark. A description of this building will be found at a
subsequent page.
The Walmgats National School, for boys, girls, and infants, is held in a
large commodious brick building, erected about twelve years ago, in Specula-
tion Street, Walmgate.
The MicJdegate National School, for boys, in Queen Street without Mickle-
gate Bar, is a hage aiiy brick erection.
The Micklegate National School, for girls and infants, is a veiy neat
Elizabethan structure in red brick, with cut stone dressings, situated imme-
666 PUBLIC SCHOOTi? or YORK.
diatelj outside Micklegate Bar. It was erected bj subscription in lB5d, and
as far as regards the structure, fitting up, &c., is regarded as a model school
The Miss Cromptons, of Micklegate, were amongst the originators of the
school, and were the chief contributors to the building fund. The Messrs.
Atkinson, of York, were the architects. The front presents a centre and two
gables, and the interior consists of two fine rooms, with open roofs, and a
class room. This school, and that for boys in Queen Street, are district
schools for all the parishes in the city on the south side of the Onse. About
1,500 children attends the National Schools of the city.
British Schools. — ^The Hope Street Boys' Schocly which is conducted on
the British and Foreign School system, is open to children of all religioos
denominations, and is under the management of a committee, chiefly com-
posed of members of the Society of Friends. The school is partly supported
by subscription, and about d30 boys receive the elements of a useful English
education. The school is well supplied with apparatus, such as a fine globe,
a magic lantern, air pumps, Ac. The working of the electric telegraph is
taught here ; the Electric Telegraph Company supply the school with instni-
ments, and the school supplies that company with clerks. The school room,
which was thoroughly repaired and re-arranged in 1852, is very spacious,
well lighted and ventilated, and forms one of the best public school rooms m
York. There is an excellent class room, and there is a good play-ground m
front of the building.
The British School, for girls, is in Jail Lane, Bishophill, and is conducted
on the same plan as the Hope Street School.
The Bilton Street School, for boys, was founded in April, 18dd, by the Bev.
Jocelyn Willy, by whom it is chiefly supported. It is intended for the
children of the district of Layerthorpe, and is conducted on the British
School system. About 160 children attend. The school room measores 60
feet by 80 feet ; is fine and airy ; and there is a good class room.
The Church of England Schools in fiishopgate Street were erected is 1838,
and are partly supported by subscription. • They are day schools for ^
only, but on Sunday both sexes attend. The average number of children ib
daily attendance is about 200. The school premises are very commodious?
and consist of two fine school rooms, and four class rooms.
There is a neat Church of England Sunday School in Layerthorpe, whicfi
was erected in 1848 ; and there are schools for girls and in&nts in Cok
Street, Groves ; and an Infant School in Speculation Street, Walmgate.
An Infant School, in Friargate, is endowed with £2. per annum ton
" Baker's Gift," for which some six poor girls are taught free.
PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YORK. 567
One of the principal Infant Schools in the city is held in the ancient
church of St. Andrew, at which ahout eighty children attend.
Wesleyan Schools. — ^These schools, which are partly supported by sub-
scriptions, are large and well attended, and their management is conducted
by a committee of the Wesleyan society.
The AUfion Street School, for boys, is situated at the rear of the Albion
Chapel, in Skeldergate. About seventy boys attend daily, and a Sunday
school for girls is held in the upper room of the same building, at which
about sixty girls attend. The Wesleyans have a Simday School in Wesley
Place, near Fossgate ; it is a large brick building two stories high.
A Wesleyan School for boys, girls, and infants, is held in the building com-
monly called St. George*s Chapel, near Walmgate, which was erected in
1820, but which has been used as a school room since the erection of the
Centenary Chapel, in St. Saviourgate. This school is conducted on the
Glasgow training system, and the average number of children in attendance
is about 150.
The Primitive Methodist Sunday School is held on the ground floor of their
spacious chapel in Little Stonegate. About 100 children attend.
The Boys' School in connexion with the Independents, is held in St.
Saviourgate, at which the average number of children in atttendance is about
140 ; and the Day and Sunday School for Oirls is held on the ground floor
of the Salem Chapel, at which about 100 children attend daily.
Catholic Schools. — St, George's Schools, for both sexes, are situated at
the east end of the Catholic church of St. George, in George Street. They
occupy a handsome red brick building, with cut stone dressings, in the Tudor
style of architecture, erected a few years ago at a cost of about £d,000.
Over 400 children are educated in these schools, which consist of a school
for boys and girls, supported by voluntary subscriptions, collections in the
church, and the children's paioe; and a Charity School, for both sexes, in
which the children are taught free. About 160 children attend the latter
school, most of whom are partly fed, and some are clothed, by the Society of
St. Vincent de Paul. (See page 555.) The school rooms for the boys and
girls are each 70 feet long, 25 feet wide, and ISi feet high, but the lower or
charity school room is a few feet shorter, a portion of it being occupied by a
kitchen for cooking food for the charity children. The boys are under the
superintendence of a head master — ^Mr. John Keller — aided by an assistant,
and some pupil teachers ; and the female department is conducted by the reli-
gious ladies of St. Mary*s Convent, York, who, in conformity to their vocation,
devote their time and talents to the instruction of the poor and ignorant.
568 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YORK.
The Convent Schools consist of a school for giris of the middle dass, and a
poor school for infants, and hoth are well attended. The schools a4]oin the
convent, withoat Micklegate Bar, and the children are taught by the nans.
The building of the schdols is in the Italian style, the front exhibits foar
large pilasters supporting a pediment, which is surmounted bj a plain cross.
The schools in York under Government inspection, and receiving Govero*
ment aid, are the York and Kipon Training Schools for Schoolmasters and
Schoolmistresses, the Yeoman School, all the National Schools, the Hope
Street and Bilton Street Schools, St George's Catholic Schools, the Church
of England Schools, BishophiU, and the Wesleyan Day Schools.
According to the Government Report of the Census for 1851, there were
then in the city of York 94 day schools (41 public, and 53 private), in which
5,784 children, viz., d,956 males, and d,8d8 females, were being educated.
The number of pupils attending the 41 public day schools was 4,415, viz.,
d,40d males, and 3,013 females ; and the number in the 53 private day
schools was 1,369, viz., 554 males, and 815 females. The population of the
city within the municipal limits being at the same time 36,303, it will be
seen that about one-sixth of the population of York were then receiving a
school education — a proportion which is larger than that of most other towns
in the kingdom.
SuNDAT Schools. — ^In 1786, and shortly after Raikes had estabHshed his
Sunday Schools at Gloucester, the York Sunday School Society was formed,
and these valuable institutions do not appear to have existed here previoos
to that period.
The Church of England Sunday Schools, for boys, are held in the Mer-
chants* Hall, Fossgate; Willey^s School, Bilton Street; Bishopgate Street;
and at the National School, Queen Street; and those for giris at Bishopgate
Street, Layerthorpe, St Andrewgate, Cole Street, and at the National SchooL
Micklegate Bar. The Churoh of England School Committee has a Libraiy
and Reading Room for the use of the teachers.
The Society of Friends hold their Sunday School in the Hope Street Sebod
The Sunday Schools belonging to the other denominations are held in
the day schools in connexion vnth them, or in the school rooms attached to
their respective chapels.
From the Report of the Census for 1851, we learn that the number of
Sunday Schools in York at that period were d6, and the number of childreo
attending them was 3,072, viz., 3,043 males, and l,9d0 females. Of these
d6 schools, fifteen were supported by the Church of England, and the nom-
ber attending them was 1,603 ; two by the Independents, and the number ifi
HOSPITALS OF YORK. 860
attendance was 734 ; three by the Wesleyan Methodists, and the number
was 80d ; one by the Wesleyan Reformers, the number of children being 810 :
one by the Wesleyan Association, containing 75 ; one by the Primitive Me-
thodists, with d7 children ; one by the Society of Friends, with 136 children ;
and two by the Catholics, containing 396 children.*
In Drake's Eboracum is the copy of a petition, which was presented to
Parliament in 1653, from the gentry residing in the northern counties, for
the establishment of a University at York, but no record has come down to
us respecting the reception it met with.
HOSPITALS OR ALMSHOUSES.— ^5far'« or St Maurice's Hospital,
Monkgate, was founded by Alderman Thomas Agar, by will dated May 7th,
16S1, for six poor widows, each of whom receives £3. 15s. 4d., per annum,
from the endowment The building consists of two small cottages, contain-
ing six tenements, which are occupied by the poor recipients of the charity.
Barstaw's Hospital, Blossom Street. — ^It is not known that there are any
writings relating to these almshouses, but there is a tradition that two maiden
sisters of the name of Barstow, who resided in York, founded them. They
consist of two ricketty old cottages, which are inhabited by six poor aged
persons, each of whom receives a sum never exceeding £3. per annum, but
often much less, and sometimes nothing. This money is chiefly derived
from the rents of some other buildings belonging to the charity.
8t, Catherine's Hospital, Holdgate Lane, for four poor widows. This alms-
house was founded previous to the Reformation, on the road side near the
Mount, as a house of entertainment for poor travellers or pilgrims who could
not pay for lodgings in the city. In Drake*8 time the edifice was kept up
and repaired at the city's expense. The income ci the charity was augmente4
by Mrs. Frances Nicholson, a widow of York, who, by deeds dated the 7th
and 8th of June, 1709, bequeathed to certain trustees the rent of a piece of
land in B^gargate Lane (now Nunnery Lane), for the support of four ancient
widows in St Catherine's Hospital. It was likewise increased by the dona-
tions of the late Mr. Luntley, a glover in Blake Street; Mr. Hartley, a glover
in Mioklegate ; and Mr* Yates, a linen draper in High Ousegate. In ad-
dition, the late Countess of Conyngham bequeathed £10. per annum to the
four aged women here. The present annual income of each inmate of the
• The following ai« the proportions in which the Govemment Education Gnint of
last year was distributed :— Church of England Schools, jei65,824. ; British and Foreign
Society Schools, ^£28,579.; Wesleyan Schools, JBI 1,286.; Boman Oatholio Schools,
^,789.; Workhouse Schools, £9,507. In Scotland— Established Cfhurch Schools,
|13,848.; Free Church Schools, Jgl4,000,; Episcopal Church Schools, £AU,
4 p
570 HOSPITALS OF YORK.
hospital is about i^l5. The old house ou the Mount was sold a few years
ago, and the present neat and comfortable building erected, in which each
poor woman has two small rooms. A similar SpUtal (a contraction for
hospital) to this, dedicated to St. Loy, was built in Catholic times, on the
east side of Monk Bridge, but not a yestige of it now remains.
CoUon'i Hospiud, Rougier Street, Tanner Row, was founded by Thomas
Colton, by deed dated February 11, 1717, and augmented by his will dated
1729, for eight poor women, who each receive about £6. per annum. The
buildings consist of cottages containing eight mean tenements.
Harrison** Hospital, Penley Grove Street, is a neat stone building, in the
Tudor style, with a chapel in the centre, erected in 1845-6. It was founded
by Mr. Harrison, for eight poor women of reduced circumstances, each of
whom receives J£20. per annum.
Hewlejfs Hospital, St Saviouigate, was founded and endowed by Lady
Hewley, relict of Sir John Hewley, of the city of York, Knt, in the year 17(H1,
for ten poor persons. The trusteeship of the hospital having, in time, faSksi
into the hands of persons professing Unitarian doctrines, who sought for
objects of the charity amongst the poor of their own sect, the orthodox party
threw it into Chancery, where it continued for twenty years, and was at
length decided by Lord Cottenham, that the charity belonged exclusively to
the Independents, Baptists, and English Presbyterians, and under the decree,
which is dated January, 1849, the charity was placed in the hands of trustees
belonging to these denominations. The original hospital was a brick boilding
situated in Tanner Bow, but its site having been sold to the Railway Com-
pany, the present handsome row of ten cottages and a small chapel, all of cut
stone, was erected in 1840, under the order of the court of Chancery, on the
site of the residence of the foundress, and within a few feet of her giUTe in
the chancel of the church of St Saviour. In front of the building, facing the
street, are the arms of the donor, with an inscription, carved in stone. Origi-
nally the annual stipend was only JS6. per ann., but the property with which
the charity is endowed having increased in value, each of the ten poor inmates
now receive 30s. per month, besides a cottage containing two rooms and a
kitchen. Prayers are read in the chapel eveiy morning by a layman.
Besides founding the hospital, Lady Hewley* paid into the Exchequer, in
• Lady Hewley, or " Dame Sarah Hewley," as she is styled, whose maiden name
Wolridge, when a spinster was a ward in chancery, and it is said that she eloped with
Mr., afterwards Sir John, Hewloy upon a matrimonial expedition, she riding before and
he behind, on the same horse, thinking thereby to protect him firom the censure of the
Lord Chancellor, by alleging that she ran away with him, and not he with her.
HOSPITALS OP YORK. 571
1788, the som of £1,000. the profits arising therefrom to be applied to the
purpose of teaching the children of the poor to read and write.
Ingram*i HogpUal, Bootham. — Sir Arthur Ingram, Knt., a senior Alder-
man of York,* founded and endowed this hospital in 1640, for ten poor
women. Drake says, that by his will " he appointed lands of the yearly
value of hhj pounds to be insured to the hospital which he had lately built
for the maintenance of ten poor widows." The buildings comprise ten cot-
tages of two rooms each, built of brick with stone dressings, having in the
centre a square tower of antique appearance, containing the chapel and
apartments for the master or reader. The entrance to this tower is a curious
stone Norman arched doorway, apparently some part of a 'church or monastic
foundation, which was probably removed here when the hospital was founded.
Each of the poor inmates of this hospital receive £6. per ann., and clothing
materials once in two years, of the value of £1. 5s. The endowment also pro-
vides twenty nobles for '' an honest able man to read prayers in the chapel,"
payable out of certain lands at Sheriff Button ; in pursuance of which £6.
Ids. 4d. per ann. is paid to the master, who reads the prayers three times
a week. The crest of the family of the founder is a cock, one of which,
of silver gilt, is the badge of the poor women and is transferred to every
successive inmate.
Ma9on'8 HospUalf CoUieigate, was founded by Margaret Mason (widow of
Mr. Thomas Mason, who served the office of Sheriff of York in 1701), for
six poor women. Mrs. Mason's will is dated June 5th, 173d, and the ori-
ginal endowment was dOs. per annum to each of the poor inmates to be paid
out of the rental of certain property in Fossgate. The poor widows receive
that sum, as well as £S. 10s. per annum from the Countess of Conyngham's
charity. The almshouse is small, but each inmate has one room.
Mai$on Dieu, or House of God, Walmgate. — ^The foundation of this alms-
house is ascribed to the Company of Cordwainers, but much uncertainty exists
respecting the period of its erection. The Cordwainers certainly maintained
it till the dissolution of the fraternity in 1808, when its entire patronage,
with its writings, Ac, were transferred to Mr. Hornby, one of the principal
members ; who, finding the building in a veiy ruinous state, took the whole
down, and generously rebuilt it, in 1811, at his own expense ; and it is now
in the patronage of the Rev. W. Hornby, son of that gentleman. The
buildings consist of five cottages, yet occupied by aged and decayed shoe-
* Sir Arthur Ingram resided in a fine house in Petergato, near the Minster, which was
occupied by Charles I. during his stay in York in 1642.
57Q HOSPITALS OF YORK.
makers, who pay a few pence per annum as an acknowledged grant to the
patron. On the top of the building is a cupola, with a bell, which, before
the company was dissolved, was always tolled on the death of any of its
members. Diyine service was also performed in the almshouse occasionaliji
at which the members were obliged to attend ; and £rom this source may be
traced the origin of its name. There is no endowment.
Middleton's HaspiUd, Skeldergate. — This is a monument of the pietjr and
benevolence of Dame Ann Middleton, who, by will dated August 34th, 1655,
left £flfiOO. for building and endowing it for twfflity widows of poor freemen
of the city of York. The widows now receive each £&, per amiam, £^> of
which is from the original endowment; iSS. from the Countess of Conyngham's
charity ; and £S. from the late Dr. Beckwith's charity. The hospital, which
was rebuilt by the trustees (the Corporation of York), in 1829, is a neat brick
erection, two stories high, in which each inmate has one good room. Over
the entrance is a niche containing a full-length statue of the foundress*
Merchant TaUors' Hospital^ Aldwark. — ^There was an ancient guild of
almshouse near the Merchant Tailors' Hall, instituted '* for the honour of
God and St. John Baptist," by a patent, bearing date the Slst of Henry VI.
(1452), for poor members of the tailors' fraternity, which was rebuilt in 1730.
This hospital consists of five small cottagesj which are still occupied by poor
brothers of the fraternity, or their widows, who receive each JSIO. per annam,
Old Maids' Ho$pUalt Bootham. — The institutioui which, as Mr. Baines
facetiously remarks, " few ladies in the early part of life would claim as t^ieir
inheritance," was founded by Mrs. Mary Wandesford, of the dty of York,
spinster, who by will, dated the 4th of November, 1735, bequeathed an estate
at Brompton-upon-Swale, near Richmond, with a mortgage of £1,^00. and
£l,dOO. South Sea Stock, in trust, for the purchase and endowment of aeon*
venient habitation, " for the use and benefit of ten poor gentlewomen, vl^o
were never married," members of the Established Church, who shall retire
from the hurry and noise of the world into " a religious house, or protestaut
retirement," with JglO. per annum to a reader. Lord Caatlecomer, the heir
at law to the foundress of this hospital, being a minor at the time of her
death, the Duke of Newcastle, his guardian, opposed the will ; but it vas
ultimately confirmed in 1739 by a decree in Chancery. Immediately on this
decision, a piece of ground, containing about an acre, was purchased, and the
present neat brick building was soon erected, and was opened for the recep-
tion of the inmates at the commencement of 1743. The maiden testator
doos not in her will fix at what time of life ladies might become candidatf^
(or this charity, but the decree of the Court of Chancery, just mentioned, ha<
HOSPITALS OF YORK. 573
fixed the age at fifty years. The hospital, which is two stories high, has in
front of it a grass plot, bounded by a brick wall ; and behind is a good sized
garden. In the centre of the building, which rises to a pediment, is a vacant
niche, probably intended for a statue of the foundress. Each inmate has two
rooms, and there is a small chapel on the second floor, against the walls of
which are hung an oil painting of the foundress, taken when she was young,
and tables of benefactions since the foundation of the hospital. Prayers are
read in the chapel, by the chaplain of the hospital, on Wednesdays and Fri-
days. The Archbishop for the time being and four other persons are trustees.
Each inmate receives a stipend of about dS2S. per annum.
St. Thomas's HospitcU, without Micklegate Bar. — This is an ancient stone
building, which before the Reformation belonged to the York Guild of Corpus
Christi, and was devoted to the relief of poor and weary pilgrims visiting the
city. The fraternity of Corpus Christi,* which was incorporated by letters
patent in the 87 th of Heniy VI. (1459), was instituted for a master and six
priests, who were termed the keepers of the guild, and who were appointed
annually by the brotherhood. An old record in the Bodleian Library says,
*' they were bound to keep a solemn procession, the sacrament being in a
shrine, borne in the same through the city of York yearly, the Friday after
Corpus Christi day, and the day after to have a solemn mass and dirge, to
pray for the prosperity of the brothers and sisters living, and the eternal re-
pose of the souls departed ; and to keep yearly ten poor folks, having every
of them towards their living yearly £3. 6s. 8d. And further, they do find
eight beds for poor people, being strangers, and one poor woman, to keep the
said beds by the year, 13s. 4d." This guild was supported chiefly by the
annual contribution collected as the above-mentioned procession passed along.
From the middle of the ISth century, down to the period of the Reforma-
tion, certain plays or pageants were exhibited in York, and in most of the
towns in the kingdom, during the octave of the festival of Corpus Christi —
the Thursday after Trinity Sunday — and thence were called Corpus Christi
Plays. Dramatic poetry in this and most other nations of Europe owes its
origin, or at least its revival, to the shows which were usually exhibited on
the more solemn festivals. " At these times," according to Dr. Percy, " they
were wont to represent in the churches the lives and miracles of the saints,
or some of the more important stories of scripture ; and as the most myste-
rious subjects were frequently chosen, such as the Incarnation, Passion, and
Resurrection, of Christ, &c,, these exhibitions acquired the general name of
• A notice of this fhitemity occxirs in 1391, in the RegiBtcr of Fountains' Abbey.
574 HOSPITALS OF YORK. ,
Mysteries."* The " Mysteries " were chiefly performed on temporary scaf-
folds, ornamented with tapestry, and erected in the church-yards ;t but the
Corpus Christ! Plays were exhibited on portable stages for the seyeral scenes,
placed on wheeb, and drawn to the principal parts of the town for the better
accommodation of the spectators. The several trading companies in the cities
and towns appear not only to have contributed towards the production of these
pageants, but the subjects for representation were distributed amongst thenii
and each company was compelled to furnish a stage, together with actors,
scenery, dresses, &c,, for the exhibition of the same. Thus, for example, the
Tylers were obliged to represent « the fallinge of Lucifer ;" the Saddlers, " the
nuikeing of the worlde;** the Ropers, <<the brekinge of the commaudmeDts
of God;" the Shoemakers, "the Childer of Ysraell;" the Smiths, "the As-
cension;" the Wrights, "the Resurrection;" the Priests, "the Coronation
of Our Lady ;" the Merehants, " Domesday ;" &c.l
The Corpus Christi plays at York were first performed in front of the chapel
of the guild ; then near the great gates of the Priory of the Holy Trinity, in
Micklegate ; thence they proceeded to the Cathedral, in the yard of which
they probably exhibited ; they then passed on to St Leonard's Hospital Mr.
Robert Davies tells us that such was the interest then felt in the dramatic
art at York, that the whole of a midsummer day, " from mom till dewy eve,"
did the citizens continue to witness the representations of the actors. The
same excellent authority tells us that only one of these plays has been pub-
lished, viz., " The Mystery of the Incredulity of St. Thomas." The original
MS. volume of the sacred dramas enacted at York, he says, is is existence,
but no one knows where; once it was in the possession of the Fair&x fuuilji
then in that of Dr. Thoresby ; afterwards it was purchased by Horace Wal-
pole, who gave JS255. for it. At his sale it was bought by a Mr. Bright, and
at the disposal of his effects, it was purohased for an unknown gentleman, for
£305., the bid on the part of the British Museum being £300. Mr. Danes
inspected the MS. shortly before its sale, when it was in good condition, and
contained about fifty mysteries. We most heartily unite with Mr. Davies in
hoping that the wealthy unknown may publish the work, that the citizens of
modem York may see the dramatic writings which delighted their ancestois.§
• Eelq. of Ant. Eng. Poetry, vol. i., p. 126.
f Sacred Plays, representing the miracles and sufferings of Christ, appear to have
been no novelty in the reign of Henry II.
* Landsdovn's MSS.
§ "An Antiquarian walk through York" — a lecture delivered at the York Institution,
in the month of December, 185i, by Bobert Davies, Esq., F.S.A.
• IIOSPITAI^ OF YORK. 576
In the third of Edward VI., the Lord Mayor of York for the time being
was appointed Master of the Hospital of St. Thomas, nnder the express con-
dition that '* the poor folks and beds were to be maintained, found, and used,
in the hospital as before-time." Accordingly, September 39th, 1583, an
Order of Council was made, authorizing the Recorder, two Aldermen, and
proper officers, to proceed to Stainforth Bridge and Buttercramb) to " take
possession of the lands there belonging to St. Thomas's Hospital, and parcel
of the late Guild of Corpus Christi." At that period the buildings of the
hospital comprised at the first entrance a chapel, on each side of which
was a spacious hall, containing seyeral fire-places and requisite furniture for
the brethren, who there assembled in common. Above were dormitories for
twenty-four poor people, and behind the hospital other requisite conveniences.
The roof of the building was covered with lead, and over it hung a prayer
bell. This hospital gradually declined in importance, till in 1683 we find it
inhabited by ten poor widows, who were allowed to solicit alms four days in
the year. In 1787 it underwent considerable alterations ; the back part of
the building was completely taken down, the chapel was removed, and the
house reduced to six apartments on the ground floor, and six more over them,
each room being occupied by one aged poor woman, appointed by the Lord
Mayor ; and thus was the inmates increased from ten to twelve, which is the
number at the present time. The expenses of the alterations were defrayed
by the money arising from the sale of the prayer bell, the lead which covered
the old hospital, &c. The system of mendicity was continued till Januaiy,
1701, when Mr. Luntley, a glover in Blake Street, dying, bequeathed,
amongst other charitable donations, the sum of £1,000., the interest of which
was to be regularly paid to the poor of this hospital ; and begging was then
discontinued. Lady Conyngham augmented the income of the hospital by
leaving £25. per annum, to be equally divided amongst the poor inmates.
The poor women now receive altogether iSlO. per annum.
Thomp9on'8 Ho9pital, Castiegate. — Founded by Sir Henry Thompson, of
Middlethorpe, " sometimes Lord Mayor of this city, and Dame Anne, his
wife, for the relief for six poor men," in the year 1700. The hospital is a
neat building, and each of the six inmates now receive £12. lOs. per annum.
In selecting deserving objects for this charity, preference is given to the in-
habitants of the parish of St. Mary, Castiegate.
Trinity Hospital, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate. — John de Rowcliff, or Raw-
clifle, founded an hospital here in 1373, which was dedicated to our Divine
Lord and the Blessed Virgin, and was commonly termed Trinity Hospital.
The founder had letters patent from Richard IE., dated ut supra, to purchase
570 Hospitals of York. %
lands worth i'lO. per aim. for the support of a priest or master, and for the
brethren and sisters of the same. The priest was to pray for the said King,
the founder, and all Christian souls ; also to paj weekly to each of the thirteen
poor people, and two poor scholars, constantly residing in the hospital, four-
pence of silver. The founder purchased only one house and 26s. rent, and
no other person having augmented the charity, " the governors of the mystery
of merchants of the city of York incorporated July IQth, the eighth of Herny
VI., and authorized by the said incorporation to purchase lands of the value
of ten pounds per annum, and to find a priest out of the profits of the same,
did enter into the said lands given to the said hospital, and of the profits and
and other lands, did give yearly to a priest to sing, continually in the said
hospital, over and besides all charges, six pounds." Such was the original
establishment of this hospital, but it was dissolved in the reign of Edward
VI., and the stipend of the priest, as also the lands granted for maintaining
of obits, lamps, <tc., was by Act of Parliament given to the King. The
Merchants' Company have, however, perpetuated the oharity, and by means
of various donations presented to it by several of its members, five poor men
and five poor women are allowed about £6, each per ann., and rooms be>
ueath the buildings of the company's hall. The apartments of the hospital
being below the surrounding surface are exceedingly gloomy, and probably
unhealthy, as the walls are of great thickness and retain the damp ; but we
rejoice to learn that it is in contemplation to build a new hospital.
Waiters Hospital, Chapel Row, George Street.— *This hospital was foandcd
by Sir Robert Wattcr, Knt, twice Lord Mayor of York, who by wOl, proved
June 15, 1612, appointed that an hospital should be erected out of his houses
in Neutgate lane, which should be for the perpetual maintenance of ten
persons, to consist of a master, governor, or reader, who shall hare £3. per
ann. for his stipend, and of certain brethren and sisters, each of whom weiv
to receive 40s. per ann. ; the said £34. per ann. to issue out of the lordship
of Cundale. The old almshouses in Neutgate Lane were pulled down when
that lane was thrown into George Street, and the present neat building of
two stories in height was erected in 1844. The number of poor women now
in the hospital is seven, and there are three out-pensioners, each of whom
receives JC2. per ann. The inmates of the hospital have two rooms each.
WUsorCs Hospital, Foss Bridge. — ^In the year 1717, Mrs, Dorothy Wilson,
a maiden lady who resided here, bequeathed her own dwelling house to be
converted into an hospital for ten poor women, each of them to have a xt>om
to herself; and for their maintenance she also left certain lands at Skipwith
and Nun-Monkton, from which each of the said poor women was to rec^ve
i
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 577
£6. lOs. per auu. The property, which has increased considerably, is vested
in the hands of seven trustees ; and in the settlement is a very extraordinary
clause, purporting that if any one of the trustees be made an Alderman of
the city, he shall cease to be a trustee. The original building stood till
1765, when it was taken down and re-erected ; but when the bridge across
the Foss was re-built, it was found requisite to take the hospital down a
second time, and it was then handsomely built with brick, as it now appears,
in 1813. The number of alms-women has been increased to sixteen, whose
stipend is iSdO. each per annum, and there are also eight blind pensioners who
each receive JS8. per ann. In connexion with this charity are schools for 50
boys and 20 girls, who are clothed and educated free ; and also schools at
Skipwith and Nun-Monkton supported out of its funds.
Wintenkdf*8 HotpUal^ Wakngate. — ^Perceval Winterskelf, who had served
the office of Sheriff of York in 1705, gave to the parish of St. Margaret
certain buildings on each side of a square court, part of which he directed
should be occupied as the residence of six poor people ; and he ordered that
the amount of the rents of the remainder should be entirelv devoted to tho
maintenance of these six poor inmates. The conditions of the bequest are
carried into effect, and the poor alms-people receive about iS14. per annum.
PopdIation, Ac, of York. — ^Whilst the city was occupied by the Eomans
no just estimate of the population has been recorded, but it must have been
considerable. In the reign of Edward ihe Confessor the number of inhabited
houses was computed at 1,898, and about the same number in the suburbs.
After the Norman Conquest, as we leani from Domesday Book, there were
only 654 inhcibited houses in York. In 1186 it was considered as bearing a
half proportion to London. In the subsidy roll of the 51st of Edward HI.,
the population of York is stated at 10,800. In the reign of Henry V., the
number of houses was 3,000, and the inhabitants, 10,000.
The population of the city at the six decennial periods of the present cen-
tury has been —
1801 16,146
1811 18,217
1821 20,787
1831 26,850
1841 28,842
1861 86,802
Of the 86,dOd persons which formed the population within the municipal
boundary of York in 1851, there were 16,96d males and 10,3SO females;
beyond that boundary the population of York exceeds 40,000.
Previously to the year 1885 the city of York was divided into four districts
or wards, which took their names from the four gates of the city ; but it is
now divided into six wards, and the following table shows the various parishes
4 E
57^
lOPuGRAPHT OF TOBK«
comprised will i in tlioin, together with the number of inhabited houses in each
parish, according to the Census of 1851, as well as the Rateable Value of
each parish in 1854. —
PARISHES, &e.
Inhabited
ForvL
Malak
ATUa.
ToliL
▼akH.
Bootham Ward,
St. Michael-le-Belfry
181
119
4a
12
375
00
385
80
04
01
76
016
562
100
305
420
324
346
110
272
747
246
110
102
133
86
56
137
264
63
182
146
116
1
474
486
75
29
933
218
769
104
177
244
187
I3as
1246
453
737
1033
e44
818
91
297
544
1664
508
278
262
332
225
141
361
637
206
432
475
204
136
641
622
171
44
1126
208
897
204
188
282
199
1625
1293
407
742
1062
736
777
126
291
961
1862
629
341
289
388
322
153
397
671
217
483
568
820
38
1115
1108
246
73
2059
426
1666
896
365
526
886
2928
2538
920
1479
2095
1380
1505
217
588
1500
3526
1227
619
551
720
547
294
758
1806
423
915
1043
584
174
8692
Minster Yard with Bedem
2671
St. Wilfrid
1961
Mint Yard Liberty
St. Giles
Monk Ward,
All Saints. PeaRholmo
'
St. Cuthbert
46^
St. Helen on the Walls
St. Andrew ,
744
Holy Trinity. Goodramfiratc
1218
St. John Del Pyke
Wo
St. Maurice
7349
St. Saviour
4472
WalmgaU Ward,
St. Crux
2801
St.. DptiniR , r , ,
2056
St. George
2060
Stt TiAWTflnw
* 3173
St. Mai^aret
1978
St. Nicholas
1073
St. Peterde- Willows
635
MickUgaU Ward.
Holy Trinity. Micklecate
4S>7S
St. Mary. BishoDhill Junior
12180
St. Mary, Bishophill Senior
3471
St. Martan-cnm-Gh'effory
4300
Guild HaU Ward,
St. Helen, St. Helen's Square
SquftTfl
2893
2693
St. Martin -le-Grand
3738
St. Peter-the-Iittle
1712
St. Sampson ......................
2753
CoMiUgaU Ward,
All Saints. North Street
2841
All Saints. Pnyement.
3050
St. John, Miickleirate
2324
St. Mary. Castlesate
2035
St. Michael, Spurriersate
2978
York Castle (Extra Parochial)
St. Giles and St. Olave parishes are partly in Bulmer Wapentake, North
Riding. The population of the latter parish, which is immediately without
the north wall of the city, and which includes the hamlet of Marygate and
parts of St Giles, Clifton, and Ilawcli£fe, is not included in the above table.
TOPOGBAPHY OF YOBK. 379
Several of the pariBhes in the city have out-townships in the county, the
population and other returns of which will he found in the account of these
places at suhsequent pages.
York Castle, being the County Prison, belongs to the county at large, and
is not within the jurisdiction of the city liberties.
The area of the city, according to the parliamentary return, is 3,720 acres.
The amount of Assesud Property in it in 1815 was £44,869. ; and in 1834
it was £68,668. The Bateable Value of the city in 1854, as shown by the
foregoing table, is £96,654 — ^to which might be added the rateable value of
Davy Hall, or Cumberland Row, an extra-parochial district in Guildhall
Ward, £170. ; that of the hamlet of Marygate, in the parish of St. Olave,
which amounts to £3,161. ; and that of the township of Holdgate, which was
£963. ; making a total of nearly £100,000.
Commerce, Trade, Ac. — ^Tork must have been a place of considerable
trade during the Roman period ; and from Alcuin we learn that its commerce
was of much importance in the middle of the eighth century. The Malms-
bury historian tells us that before the Conquest York was a great city, and
that " ships trading from Germany and Ireland lay in the heart of it." The
Ouse at that period was the only navigable river in the county, and the tide
flowed up to the walls of York ; consequently the city was favourably situated
for commerce. After it had recovered from the effects of the Norman inva-
sion, the trade and commerce of York appear gradually to have increased ;
and from that time to about the middle of the last century it was very con-
ffiderable. During the greater part of that period the Ouse would admit the
passage, up to the bridge, of the largest vessels employed in the merchant
service. In the early part of the 18th century a charter was granted by
King John (who visited York no less than sixteen times during his short
reign), confirming the Mercatorial Guild, with all its privileges ; and during
the 13th and 18th centuries, the weavers of York paid a considerable yearly
sum for their immunities. At this period the merchants, artificers, and
tradesmen of York consisted of several companies or guilds, aU of whom were
obliged to take part in the pageants of the famous Corpus Christi festival.
(See page 574.) In 1398 the port of York furnished one vessel to the fleet
of Edward I. In 1854 (37th Edward m.) York obtained the staple for wool,
and many of the merchants of the city were subsequently members of the
** Corporation of the Staple at Calais," as well as of other guilds in France
and in the Low Countries. The " Company of Merchant Adventurers," and
the ** Company of Merchant Tailors," are the only two surviving guilds or
fraternities of traders, once so numerous in this city ; but these associations
580 TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK.
bavo now ceased to exercise anj influence over the trade of York. Of the
ten staple towns established by Henry VU., York is mentioned as the second
in rank, and like the rest of these towns, had peculiar commercial privileges
granted to it. The Woollen Manufeicture, which appears to have been eadj
established at York, abundantly flourished there so late as the reign of Henij
Yin. In the 34th of that reign (1588) an Act was passed, the preamble of
which says, " Whereas, the city of York being one of the andentest asd
greatest cities within the realm of England, before this time hath been
maintained and upholden by divers and sundry handicrafts there used, asd
principally by making and weaving coverlets and coverings for beds,'* and
the manu&cture having spread into other parts, being thereby " debased aod
discredited ;" the act proceeds to enact that henceforth " none shall mslie
coverlets in Yorkshire, but inhabitants of the city of Yoik." The mann&c-
tures continued to flourish in the city until the commencement of the 18th
century, when its trade in woollens completely left it, and removed to the
West Riding. The increase of the size of trading vessels, the remoteness of
the city from the sea, and other causes, led to the gradual decline of York as
a place of trade. In the early part of the reign of Charles L, we find Sir
Robert Barwick thus addressing the King on his entrance to the city, "That
this city was formerly eminent with trade, and far greater and more popoloos
than it now is ; yet of later times trading here decreased, and that piincip^J
by reason of some hindrance in the river, and the greatness of the ships nov
in use. Yet, nevertheless, this river, by your royal assistanoe, might be
made serviceable, and until that be done, there is no hope that this city
will attain its former splendour and greatness." Little appears to have been
done to improve the navigation of the Ouse till the Idth of George I. (17'^^^
when an Act of Parliament was obtained for the purpose, and a lock aod
dam erected at Nabum, at an expense of about £10,000. By these means
the water in the city was raised five feet, and vessels of 140 tons burden c«n
now saU up to it. The navigation was further improved in 1886, by the
application of a powerful steam dredger, and by the channel being made saf-
flciendy deep and regular to allow steam vesseb to ply upon it in aU states
of the tide. Notwithstanding these improvements, however, York has nct^''
been able to regain its former importance as a place of trade ; and it would
probably have declined still farther during the last century, had it not been,
that as the metropolis of the north, it was often the residence of many of tbe
county nobility and gentry. " Whereas the city of York is the capital city
of the northern parts of England," recites the preamble of the first city itn-
provcmont act in 1768, " and is a place of groat resort., and much frequentw
TOPOORAPHT OF YORK. 581
by persons of distinction and fortune, whose residence there is of great benefit
and advantage to the citizens of the said citj, &c" The rapid growth of
many of the mannfactoring towns of the West Riding, and the port of Hull,
has a£fected the relative position of York, both in trade and population ; and
the city might have continued to recede had it not been for the introductimi
of railways.
The trade of York now principally arises from the supply of the inhabitants
and the numerous opulent families in the neighbourhood. The chief branches
of manufacture carried on here are i^ass, planes and edge tools, soap, combs,
iron-wire, confectionery, and drugs ; and there are also some extensive iron
foundries. The growth of chicory has of late years been largely cultivated
in the neighbourhood of York. The manufacture of glass was introduced in
1797 ; the glass works, which are situated in Fishergate, were considerably
enlarged in 185d; and that business is now continued on a considerable
scale. The chief articles manufactured are flint glass vessels and common
vials. A Linen Manu&ctoiy was established in 1824, outside Walmgate
Bar, at which huckabacks, &c., are manufactured.
Although the number of vessels plying on the river Ouse is a£fected by
competition with the railways, yet still there is a considerable trade carried
on between HuU, Selby, and Goole, to and from which towns there is a
steamer every day, except Sunday. Great quantities of coal are brought
hither in barges ; and from the junction of the Foss with the Ouse is a navi-
gable communication to the parish of Sheri£f-Hutton, in the North Riding.
Several Joint Stock Trading Companies have been formed in York
during the last thirty years. The most important are the several Banking
Companies, the Yorkshire Intwranee Company , and the York 6hu and York
Waterworks Companiea, There are several other companies for minor objects.
Many efforts have been made to obtain for York the privileges of an Inland
Bonded Port, but hitherto without success.
Great £EUsilities have been opened for the increase of the trade of York by
the introduction of BaUways ; and in consequence of them the old city has
become an important place for the transit both of passengers and goods. An
account of the several lines of. railway which converge here will be found at
a subsequent page of this volume.
MarkeU. — ^In this city there are nominally three mari^et days, viz.: —
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, but the Tuesday market has feillen into
desuetude. Drake, writing in 1736, says of the York market, " it is abun-
dantiy furnished with all sorts of grain, and a vast variety of edibles, of which
wild fowl is not the least
68d TOPOORAPfiT OF YORK.
The Oeneral WeMy Marka for the sale of poultry, eggs, hutter, fruit,
yegetahles, and all kinds of produce, Ac,, is held eveiy Saturday in Pariia-
ment Street Previous to the opening of this street, the market was held
in the Pavement and High Ou8^;ate, which were veiy inconvenient and
confined places for that purpose, and many accidents were caused by the
narrowness of these streets, notwithstanding that portions of the chorcb yaids
of All Saints and St Crux had heen thrown into them.
In the front of St Martin's church yard, in Micklegate, was formeriy
situated the BuUer Stand. Great quantities of this article was brought to
York, and after heing weighed here by officers appointed for the purpose,
was purchased by contractors and shipped to London. Sixty yean ago
80,000 firkins of butter were annually received at this office. The building,
which succeeded a very ruinous one that was blown down the preceding
year, was erected in 1778, for the purpose of weighing and marking butter,
and it too having become ruinous, was taken down in December, 1828.
After the trade in wool in this city had been discontinued for some ages,
a Wool Market was established by the Lord Mayor and Corporation, on
Thursday, the 6th of May, 1708. St Anthony's Hall being the place
appointed for exposing this article for sale, several poor widows, who resided
there, were removed to the hospital of St. Thomas, and there was a wooden
cross erected opposite the hall for weighing the wool. This mazket is still
continued on Peaseholme Green (St Anthony's Hall being now occupied as
a Blue Coat School) every Thursday, from the latter end of May to the latter
end of August ; and for about three months after, viz. : — September, October,
and November, it is held on every alternate Thursday.
The Cattle Market is held in the new and spacious Market Place, vithoot
Fishergate Bar, every alternate Thursday. It was formerly held in Walffl
gate, much to the inconvenience of the inhabitants of that neighbonrbood,
but in 1826 the Corporation purchased the present piece of ground, for the
purpose of a Cattle Market, at a cost of £10,000. The stalls and pens «ill
hold over 600 cattle, and about 11,000 sheep. The tolls produce about iSS50.
a year. The laige inn in the centre was built contemporaneously with the
market The Pig Market is held near Foss Bridge every Saturday.
Fairs are held as follows : — Candlemas fair on the Thursday before Feb-
ruary 14th; Palmsun fiair, Thursday before Palm Sunday; Whit Mondaj:
Peterday fair, July 10th ; Lammas fair, August 12th ; Soulmas &ir, No-
vember 14th ; Martinmas fair, November 23, for horses and homed et^
A Horte Fair, commonly called the Christmas Show, takes place without
Micklegate Bar, the last whole week before Christmas.
TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK. 683
A Leather Fair, established in 1815, used to be held quarterly on Pease-
holme Green, but for the last few years it has been discontinued. The leather
fisurs are now held at Leeds.
In the session of Parliament of 1838, the Corporation obtained an Act for
improving and enlarging the market-places in the city, and rendering the
approaches thereto more commodious ; and for regulating and maintaining
the seyeral markets and fairs held within the city, and its suburbs. Under
the provisions of this Act, the new and spacious street, called Parliament
Street — ^now used as the Market-Place — ^was formed, and opened for the first
time in 1836. Besides the great weekly market on Saturday, there is
another, but a lesser market, every Thursday. There has not been, and it
is no small matter of surprise that there is not yet, an enclosed general
market-place in York. In 1671 Mr. Marmaduke Rawden, a merchant of
London, but a native of York, amongst other benefactions, devoted JS400. to
the erection of a Market Cross at the end of All Saints' Church, for the ac-
commodation of the public. It was a small square building, with a dome,
supported by twelve Ionic pillars. The following year the cross was raised
higher, and a turret and vane placed on the top of it by the Corporation, at
a cost of £100. Thus it stood till the month of January, 1813, when, being
considered useless, it was taken down, and the materials sold by auction.
The Com Market is still held in the open air at the east end of All Saints*
Church, Pavement, on and near the site of the above-mentioned cross, on
Saturdays, between the hours of twelve and one. Being situated in the midst
of an extensive district, the com and cattle markets are very important.
The Butcher's Market is held in St. Sampson's Square, commonly called
Thursday Market, from the fact of the principal market of the city having at
one time been held on Thursday. There was formerly in the middle of the
Square a stone Market Cross, with an ascent of five steps on each side, round
which was a shed or penthouse, supported by eight wooden pillars, on one of
which was fixed an iron yard-wand, as the standard of the market. This
old structure was taken down in 1704, and a new Cross was erected instead
of it on the west side of the Square, on the site of the ancient Tolbooth, by
Elizabeth Smith and George Atkinson, who then fBirmed the market of the
Corporation; and in consideration of the expense which they incurred in
erecting the Cross, they had their lease renewed for a term of twenty-one
years, at a rent of £29. per annum. This building in time became not only
useless, but a nuisance, as it was a harbour for idle and dissolute persons,
and a source of continued disturbance in the neighbourhood. A number of
the inhabitants of that part of the city raised, by subscription, £100., in order
584 TOPOOBAPHT OF TOBK.
to poichafle from the Corpomtkm their market right in the Cross, and to take
it down. It was oonseqoently removed in July, 1815. The statae of George
ILy which is pUoed over the entrance of the Guild-Hall, formeily decorated
Ihe Cross in Thursday Market, and was removed to its present sitoation in
1786. Drake tells ns that a market used to he held in the Thursday Mar-
ket-Place every Friday, for the sale of linen doth and linen yam ; hence the
use of the yard-wand mentioned above.
The FM Market is a covered building at the west end of St. Sampson's
Churoh. Beforo its erection the salt-water fish market was held in Fossgate,
and previously it was held on Foss bridge, and in Walmgate. The finesh-
water fish market was formerly held at a place called Salter-hole-gresses, or
Grecian steps, at the east end of the old Ouse bridge. Supplies of fish fiom
Scarborough, Bridlington, and the eastern coast, arrive daily.
The Hay Market was formeriy held in King's Square, but in 1827 it was
removed to Peaseholme Green, where it continues to be held every Thursday.
The present weighing machine was erected by the Corporation.
CiYU* GovEBNMBNT OF THE CiTT. — Respecting the mode of government
adopted by the Britons in their cities litde is known. Under the Roman
government in Britain, York was governed in all respects like Rome itself.
During the Saxon period the Kings of Northumbria had their residence in
this city ; but when Edwin became monaroh of England, he changed the
government from a kingdom to an earidom. York is at present a city and
county in itself, having exclusive jurisdiction, and is the second city in rank
in the kingdom, though it is now surpassed in wealth and population by many
of the more modem trading towns in the county. The city of York claims
to be a Corporation by prescription. The first charter bestowed upon the
inhabitants, or at least the earliest charter extant, or on record, is one of
Henry 11., without date, in which a charter, granted by Henry I., is referred
to. Richard L, in the first year of his reign (1189), granted the citizens of
York an exemption from toll and all customs in England and Normandy ;
and King John, in the first of his reign (1199), gave them a charter, ratifying
all former privileges, and conferring the city on the inhabitants, subject to a
fee farm rent of £160. Confirmatory charters were also granted by Hemy
m., Edward U., Edward m., and BIchard 11. ; confirmations, or new grants
of charter rights, were obtained finom almost every subsequent monarch to
Charles 11. In the 9th of Henry Yin. (1618), by letters patent, a Conntum
Council was established as part of the Corporation ; and a charter, 7th of
Charles I. (1688), first introduced the election of eighteen members of this
council from each of the four wards, into which the city was then divided.
TOPOGBAPHY OF YORK. 585
The govemiDg charters previoas to 1885 were the 16th of Charles IT.
(1663); and another, 10th of Geoige lY. (1820), in consequence of circum-
stances arising, which prevented the fulfihnent of the charter of Charles
n. Before the passing of the Municipal Act, the Corporation was styled
" The Major and Commonally of the City of York," and it consisted of
the Lord Mayor, 12 Aldermen, 2 Sheriffs, 82 ex-Sheriffs, who were com-
monly called the " Twenty-four," 72 Common Councilmen, a Eecorder, 2 City
Council, a Town Clerk, 2 Coroners, and some inferior officers. The Lord
Mayor, Aldermen, Sheriffis, and the "Twenty-four," constituted what was
designated the Upper House ; and the Common Councilmen sat in a chamher
by themselves, and formed the Lower House. The Lord Mayor and Sheriffs
were elected annually ; the Aldermen and Common Councilmen were elected
for life. The Lord Mayor, by virtue of various grants and Acts of Parlia-
ment, was invested with important and extensive powers, and had an allow-
ance for meeting the necessary expenses of his station. Prior to the time
of Edward III., this allowance was £50. ; in 1735 it was ^£350. ; in 1771,
£600. ; and in 1812 it was J88O0. After that period it was reduced to 60
guineas ; and the allowance is now altogether discontinued. In veiy early
times the Mayors of York held their office for several years successively. In
the reign of Edward in., Nicholas Langton was Mayor for thirteen years,
and his son. Sir John Langton, for eight years. No less than twenty of the
chief magistrates of York have received the honour of knighthood.
There was formerly an indefinite number of Freemen, or persons who were
free of the Corporation of the city. This freedom was acquired by birth, ap-
prenticeship, or purchase ; and the liberty of opening shops in the city was
confined exclusively to these persons. The fine in ordinary cases was £25.
The average annual income of the Corporation, derived from rents of real
property, fines, &c., was about £4,600. When its functions were transferred
to the newly elected council, there was a debt of £10,500., chiefly contracted
for public improvements.
The new Municipal Reform Act came into operation on the 24th of De-
cember, 1835. By this Act, as we have already shown, the city was divided
into six wards ; previously it was divided into four ; each ward elects six
Councillors, who retain their office for three years only, but are eligible for
re-election, and two of whom retire in rotation annually. The Councillors
elect twelve Aldermen, who serve for six years ; so that the corporate body
now consists of a Lord Mayor, twelve Aldermen, and thirl^-six Councillors,
under the usual corporate style. The Aldermen were formerly chosen out of
the wealthier classes of citizens, and were ex-officio Justices of the Peace ;
4 F
680 TOPOGRAPHY OF TORK.
bat they are now only members of the Council, possessing no poorer or au-
thority above the Councillors. The right of voting for the Councillors is
vested in the male ratepayers of the city. The qualification of the Aldermen
and Councillors consists in the clear possession of property to the amount of
JS500., or being rated to the relief of the poor upon the annual value of £15.
As we have just observed, un4er the old system, the Mayor, Aldermen,
Sheriffs, and '* Twenty-four,*' met in a chamber separate from the Cooncil-
men ; hence the two divisions were called the Upper and Lower House.
Under the Municipal Act, the entire body meet in one place. The Corpo-
ration are charged with the management and protection of the city to the
fullest extent ; though under a local Act, 6th George IV., cap. 15, a Boaid
of Commissioners was appointed to superintend the lighting, paving, and
cleansing of the streets, the recent Health of Towns* Act abolished the Board
of Commissioners, and their duties now devolve upon the Corporation, who
are constituted by the said Act, the Local Board of Health, and whose
powers are now greatly extended.
Under the Municipal Act, the borough is included in schedule A, amongst
those to have a commission of the peace, which has acccordingly been granted;
and in section B of that schedule, amongst those, the municipal boundaries
of which were to be taken till altered by Pariiament The boundary of the
old borough, municipal and parliamentary, differs Utde either from that of
the new parliamentary borough, or from that laid down on the map of the
municipal boundaries* report ; the two latter being only somewhat extended
further on the north and the south-east sides of the city.
At what time the title of Mayor was conferred on the chief magistrate of
the city, cannot now be ascertained. By ancient prescription he assumes the
title of My Lord in all writings, or in speaking to him, the same as the Major
of London ; which peculiar honour, as we have already seen at page 146 of
this history, was conferred on the chief magistrate by King Richard Hm
whilst on a visit to York in 1889, when he took his sword from his side, and
presented it to be borne before WiUiam de Selby, the Mayor of that day, and
his successors in office for ever, with the point erect, except in the presence
of the King. The Mayors of York and London are the only chief magistrates
in England who have received the title of Lord, and it is worthy of notice
that this civic honour was conferred on this city previous to London.
In 1898 the same monarch (Richard n.) presented Robert Savage, the
then Lord Mayor, with a large gilt mace, to be borne before him, and a cap
of maintenance to the sword-bearer. The Lord Mayor was formeriy chosen
annually from the Aldermen, on the 15th of January, and entered on his
T0P06RAPHT OF YORK. 687
office on the 8rd of February ; now he is chosen from the bodj of the Council,
and his election takes place on the 9th of November. This office is of great
trust and importance. Within his own jurisdiction he is surpassed hj none
in rank and power except the Queen and the presumptive heir to the Crown ;
and the Commission of Assize for the city is granted conjointly to the Lord
Mayor and Judge. The Lord Mayor resides in the Mansion House during
his year of office, and if he be married, his wife is dignified with the title of
the Lady Mayoress, and in addressing her, the term " My Lady " is applied.
In Drake's time, though the husband parted with both honour and title at
the time he was divested of office ; yet by the courtesy of the citizens of
York her ladyship still enjoyed her title, by no other right, perhaps, but that
of an old rhyming proverb, which we find in Dugdale : —
" The Lord Major is a Lord for a year and a day,
But the Lady Mayoress is a Lady for ever and aye."
This courtesy towards the Lady Mayoress has, however, now ceased ; and at
the expiration of her husband's year of office, the term My Lady is dropped,
unless she is previously entitled to it by birth or marriage.
The Lord Mayor, on all public occasions, appears habited in a scarlet robe,
with a massy gold chain hung round his neck. Formerly at the Sessions of
the Peace he was supreme, but now the Recorder is sole Judge of that court.
Under the old regime no law could pass the Corporation without the concur-
rence and approval of the chief magistrate ; but he is now deprived of that
authority, and instead of being, as formerly, a Justice of the Peace for life,
he can only act in a magisterial capacity during his mayoralty and the year
following. The Lady Mayoress also possesses a chain of office, with which
she is duly and formally invested by the Sheriff upon inauguration ; for which
office he, by custom, claims, and receives too, a salute from her ladyship.
Mr. Aldermen Richard Town, who, according to Mr. Davies, occupied the
antique-looking house at the comer of Lendal, in 1716, gave a staff of honour,
made of Indian wood, tipped with silver, which had been taken in battle from
some Eastern potentate to the Corporation, their previous staff having be-
come very much worn. This staff is a symbol also presented annually to the
Lady Mayoress by the Sheriff.
The Aldermen, too, appear on all public occasions in scarlet robes ; and
the Sheriff in a black robe. And that historic relic, the Cap of Maintenance,
given by Richard U., as we have seen at page 146, is worn by the sword-
bearer on all occasions of ceremony.
The Eecarder is appointed by the Crown, and is the particular guardian of
688 TOPOGRAPHY OF YOBK.
the privileges of the citizens, and the preserver of the ancient records and
charters. He is ex-ojfficio a Justice of the Peace ; has precedence next after
the Lord Mayor; is sole Judge at the Quarter Sessions of the Peace; and
presides as Assessor at the Sheriff*s Court He is the puhlic orator of the
corporate hod j, and in the Council Chamher he sits on the right of the Lord
Mayor, to render his counsel and advice when required.
Previously to the passing of the Municipal Act there were two Shirifi of the
city of York, hut since that period there has been but one, who is annually
chosen on the 0th of November by the City Council. The Sheriff has ehaige
of the prisoners of the county of the city, and he is the returning officer at
the parliamentary elections. The office was originally instituted by King
Richard 11., who, in 1390, constituted the city a county of itself, and gave
authority to elect two Sheriffs (in lieu of the three Bailiffs formerly appointed i,
who, with the Mayor, should have cognizance in all pleas and actions within
the limits of the city. From the time of the institution of the office till tbp
year 1886, a period of 440 years, the two Sheriffs had a double function to
exercise, ministerial and judicial, as they executed and made retonis of all
processes and precepts of the courts of law, and had authority to hold several
courts of a distinct nature. They had also the care of all debtors and felons
confined in the county of the city ; and after they had served the office, ther
continued, as before observed, members of the " Upper House,'* under the
tide of the " Twenty-four,'* though they generally exceeded that number.
The Sheriff of the city, under the existing law, takes no part in the delibera-
tions of the city Council.
The Town Clerk is appointed by the Council, and attends its meetiiigs to
record the proceedings ; he has also a great variety of other onerous snd im-
portant business to transact Formeriy it was necessaiy for the appoiDttneot
of a town clerk to be approved by the Crown, but that is no longer essential
The Coroner is chosen by the city Council; but that appointment was
formerly in the freeholders of the county of the city.
The City Trecuwer, and several inferior officers, are elected by the Council.
and the appointment of Auditors and Assessors is vested in the citizens.
There was formerly an officer called the Lord High Steward of tks C^y*
who was considered the city's advocate with the King. Among those who
have filled this office were George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, appointed
in 1673, and the Earl of Derby, appointed in 1688. With this noblemao
the office became extinct.
The Arms of the City are aigent, on a cross gules — St Geoi^'s cross-
five lions, passant-quondant, Or. The five lions with which the cross i^
T0P06RAPHT OF YORK. 580
charged, it is said were added by William the Gonqaeror, in honoar of fire
heroic magistrates, yiz. : — Sir Robert Clifford, Houngate, Talbot, Lassels,
and Erringbam, who so valiantly defended the city against his arms in 1070,
till famine obliged them to surrender, that he determined thus to honour
them for their courage and brayery. But however poetic this tradition may
appear, it must vanish before the feuct that armorial bearings have not been
used till after the reign of William I.
The Seal of the Corporation is of a circular form. The obverse has St
Peter, with his keys, between two angels holding candles. Legend, 8' B —
J. Petri. Prineipis Apostolor, The reverse represents a fortified town, with
a legend, SigiUvm. CIVIVM. Ehoraci.
The following are the chief officers of the Corporation for 1866.
The Right Honorable George Wilson, Lord Mayor.
Charles Heneage Elsley, Esq., SMorder. C. P. Bainbridge, Esq., Sherif.
Henry Richardson, Esq., Town OUrk and Clerk of the Peace.
Aldermen. — George Leeman, James Meek, William Hudson, Joseph Rown-
tree, James Meek, Jun., William Richardson, Qeoige H. Seymour, John
Wood, Richard Evers, and James Chadwick, Esquires.
The City Magistrates are the Lord Mayor for the time being, James Bar-
ber, Thomas Barstow, James Meek, Leonard Simpson, Thomas W. Wilson,
John Swann, John Robert Mills, Thomas Price, and Richard Evers, Esquires.
Additional Magistrates are about to be appointed. Mr. Joseph Munby is
their Clerk. The Magistrates are Justices of the Peace, and act under a
commission firom the Crown. They are a distinct body from the Aldermen.
The Income of the Corporation for the year ending August 81, 1664, was
Jg7,061, arising chiefly firom rents and market tolls.
Franchise. — ^York returns two members to Pariiament The franchise
was conferred at a veiy early period, though the precise time is uncertain ;
but Civitas Eborum occurs at an early date in the Parliamentary rolls. Since
the 49th of Henry m. (Id66) it has r^olarly returned two members to
Parliament Under the old Corporation the right of voting for members of
Parliament for the city was confined to the freemen. In 1784 there was a
severe contest at York, at which about d,000 persons voted. In 1886, ac*
cording to the Corporation Commissioners' report, there were d,400 resident
freemen, and 1,800 non-resident, making a total of 8,700. The Reform Act
of 1889 reserved the rights of resident freemen to a certain extent, and the
right of election was extended to the JSIO. householders. The present con-
stituency numbers about 4,800. Under the old Corporation York was always
accounted a whig borough, but the opposite party was generally strong enough
590 TOPOORAPHT OF TORE.
to obtain a share in the lepreeentalion. The present members for the ci^
are John Qeorge Smjth, Esq., and Sir William Mordaunt Edward Mibier,
Bart York is the principal polling place, and the place of election for the
members of Parliament for the North Riding; the nomination is held in
the Castle YanL
Strays. — ^The freemen of York still possess the excliisiTe right of pasturing
their cattle free on the different strays belonging to the four ancient wards of
the city, and those whose means will not allow them to possess stock, haye
the privilege of disposing of this privilege to non-freemen. The strajs,
which are large tracts of land on each side of the suburbs, are as follows : —
MickUgcUe Stray, situated without Micklegate Bar, on the London road,
consists of the commons called Enayesmire, Scarcroft, and Hob Moor, con-
taining together about 440 acres. The York races are held on Enayesmire :
and the ancient place of execution, formerly called the York Tufmni^ and
more recently Gallows HiU, is included in this common. Though the rising
ground upon which the gallows used to be erected has been levelled, its site
on the road side, near the boundary of the city, is well known. The crimi-
nals were conveyed in a cart firom York, surrounded and followed by immense
multitudes ; and this barbarous custom, with its brutal concomitants, dis-
gusting to the feeling mind, was continued till August, 1802, when the new
drop was erected behind the Castle.
The piece of ground called Hob Moor lies on the opposite side of the road
to Knavesmire. On it is a stone figure of a Knight Templar, of the family
of Boss, as appears by his shield. This image was formerly recumbent^
perhaps in some of the churehes of York, but it is now erect, and exhibits on
^e back the following inscription, partly defaced : —
" This image long Hob's name has bore,
IVho was a Knight in time of yore,
And gave this Common to the Poor."
Underneath are the names of the pasture masters who erected it, in 1717 ;
also, the later date of 1767. In speaking of this figure Mr. Gough says,
" It was probably removed from the ruins of Kirkstall or Rievaulx Monas-
tery (where the Bosses were buried till the middle of the fifteenth century);
it is placed," he continues, '' on a pedestal, on a piece of ground without the
city of York, called Hob Moor, and is said to have been given to the city by
one Hob, who perhaps was Robert I., lineal ancestor of John, and a great
benefactor to the Knights Templars." When the plague raged in York in
the sixteenth century, a number of infected persons were sent out of the city
to Hob Moor, where tents were erected for their accommodation.
TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK. 591
Bootham Stray is on the north side of the citj, on the Helmslej road, and
contains about 176 acres. It is crossed twice bj the railway.
Monk Ward Stray consists of about 133 acres on Heworth Moor, on the
Malton road.
Wahngate Stray is situated on Low Moor, without Walmgate Bar, on the
Heslington road, and consists of about 75 acres. These strays are managed
by pasture masters, (four for each ward) elected annually by the freemen.
Courts of Justice. — The Courts of Assize for the city and county of the
city, are opened by the Judges on the Northern Circuit, under a separate
commission, on the same day as the Assizes for the county. The city As-
sizes are held at the Cfuild Hall, on which occasions the Lord Mayor sits on
the bench on the Judges' right hand. The Assizes for the county take place
in the County HaU, in the Castle yard. The York city and county Assizes
are generally held in the months of March and July ; and there is a general
gaol deliyery, usually called the Winter Assizes, in the month of December.
The present Clerk of Arraigns, or Assize, is Sir John Bailey, Bart., and his
deputy is C. J. Newstead, Esq.
Quarter Sessions for the city are held in the Guild-Hall, before Charles
Heneage Elsley, Esq., the Recorder, in the months of January, April, July,
and October. All offences, not capital, may be disposed of by this court.
Petty Sessions for the county are held every fortnight, in the Clerk of
Assize's room, over the entrance to the Castle. The county Magistrates
preside at this court. The Lord Mayor and one of the Justices hold Petty
Sessions in the Magistrates' room, at the Quild-Hall, on Mondays, Thursdays,
and Saturdays ; and the city Magistrates sit daily in the same place, for the
dispatch of police business.
The York City Court of Record is held in the Ouild-Hall, at intervals of
not less than two months. This court takes cognizance of actions of every
description, and damages may be recovered to any amount. The B>ecorder
of the city is Judge, and he appoints a deputy.
The County Court of Yorkshire is held at the Guild-Hall once a month.
The jurisdiction of this court extends to the recoyeiy of debts, damages, or
demands, when the amount sought to be recovered does not exceed £50. ;
and actions may be brought in it to recover debts of every description, not
exceeding that sum. The Judge is Alfred Septimus Bowling, Esq., Ser-
jeant-at-law ; and there are several deputy Judges.
The Insolvent Debtors' Court is held monthly in the Nisi Prius Court,
York Castle, before the Judge or deputy Judge of the County Court.
The Ecclesiastical Courts of the Archbishop of York have extensive juris-
59d TOPOOBAPHT OF TOBK.
dictum ; thej are hdd in one of the Tastiies of the Cathedral, and the records
are veiy carioos and TalnaUe.
To the Corporation bdonga the ocHiBerffancj cf the metB Aire, Derwent,
Don, Oase, Wharfe, and some parts of the Hamher ; and a coort is occa-
sioiiallj held for the arrangement of matters connected with these rivers.
PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, BUILDINGS, &c.—GuUd fluC— This
fine old Gothic building, which stands behmd the Mansion House, in Con^
Street, was erected in the middle of the 15th century, bj the Mayor and
Commonalty of the city, in concert with the master and brethren of the Guild
of St Christopher. This Guild was founded by the authority of letters patent
from Richard U., granted to Robert Dalbey and other citizens at York,
Martii 13, anno regni 10. The chapel of the guild formerly stood where the
present Mansion House has been erected. In the year 1445 we find the
Guild of St. Christopher agreed to build a new hall, with pantiy, butteiy,
and other appurtenances, and in the year following the building was com-
menced. The interior of the building was not finished in 1496, for Thomas
Chapman, rather than be master of the guild, agreed to pay a fine of £10.,
and gave one hundred wainscots £:>r the roof, and forty more were given by
two other worthies, for the same purpose. Another brotherhood, called the
Guild of St. George, was afterwards added to the fraternity of St. Christopher,
and by letters patent, from Henry VL, dated at Westminster, in the 35tb
year of his reign (1446), and addressed to William Craven and other citizens,
the said guilds were possessed of power to purchase lands and tenements to
a certain amount, and to make and adopt rules and regulations relative to
the disposal of their revenues, for the support of their common hall, for re-
pairing and maintaining certain bridges and highways in and near the city,
and for the relief of the poor. In less than a century alter the foundation of
the hall wsjsi laid — ^the 3rd of Edward VI. — ^the united guild was diasdved,
and their messuages, tenements, &c., in York and other places, were granted
to the Mayor and Commonalty of the city of York, and to their snccesaors;
and the common hall of those ancient religiouB guilds was then converted into
the Guild-Hall of the legislators of the city.
The entrance to the building is by folding doors at the east end — ^the west
end fronts the river Ouse. Ovot the doors is a large pointed window of five
lights, in the centre of which is a statue of George n., which formerly deco-
rated the cross in Thursday Mazket, and was removed to its present situatioii
in 1706. The interior of the ball is very imposing — indeed it is one of the
finest Gothic rooms in the kingdom. It measures 96 feet in length, 43 in
width, and to the centre of the roof, dO feet 6 inches in height
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 693
The roof, which is composed of oak, and decorated with numerous grotesque
figures, carved in bosses, is supported by ten octagon oak pillars, on stone
bases ; each pillar 21 feet 9 inches high, by 5 feet 9 inches in circumference,
though severally cut out of one single tree ; and from their capitals spring
the arches of the roof. These pillars divide the apartment into three aisles.
The hall is lighted by several good plain Perpendicular windows ; that at the
west end, which is of five lights, being filled with beautifully stained glass,
representing the Royal Arms in the centre, and the figures of Justice and
Mercy^ — ^the former with the motto " Cuique suum," and the latter " Miseris
succurro." In the lower compartment are exhibited the arms of the city, the
sword and mace, 4&c., vrith the date 1683. The whole was executed by
Edmund Gyles, a citizen of York. There are also a few good specimens of
stained glass in some of the other windows. At the east end of the hall is a
very large and valuable picture of St. Paul pleading before King Agrippa,
painted by R. Marsden, and presented to the Corporation of York in 1852, by
the Rev. T. H. L. Fox, '' from a feeling of attachment to, and in memory of,
the former connection of his family with this city."
The west end of the haU is fitted up as a court, in which are held the As-
sizes and Quarter Sessions for the city. The hall is likewise used for
meetings of the citizens on all matters of public business, and formerly the
nomination and polling for Members of Parliament took place in it. Here
also was given the grand banquet to Prince Albert and the Lord Mayor of
London, in aid of the Great Industrial Exhibition of 1851. (See page 277.)
At the back or west end of the hall, and overlooking the river Ouse, is the
Justice Boom, or Petty Sessions Court, where the Lord Mayor and City Magis-
trates sit to adjudicate cases brought before them by the police. This room
was neatly wainscotted with oak in 1679, at the expense of Sir John Hewley,
one of the representatives of this city in Parliament, and there is yet an in-
scription over the fire-place to that purport The roof is in panels, with
coloured bosses bearing shields. The back of the Lord Mayor's chair bears
a carved oak shield, which is charged with the arms of the city, and sur-
mounted by a carving in wood of the ancient Cap of Maintenance. Indeed
the room is entirely in the antique style, and it is perhaps the most strikingly
fitted up room of the kind in the kingdom.
In one of the windows is a piece of painted glass, exhibiting a beautiful
representation of Justice drawn in a triumphal car, the gift of the artist, the
late Mr. Peckitt of York. It was placed in its present position in 1754,
when the Corporation presented the talented artist with the freedom of the
city. Here are deposited the musketry of the city, calculated to equip four
4 Q
594 TOPOORAPHT OF TOBK.
companies of serentj men each, first raised by the city in consequence of the
rebellion in 1745. (See page 209.) A part of St William's Chapd on Case
Bridge was formerly occupied as the Council Chamber^ and when that building
was taken down in 1810, a new wing was added to the Guild Hall, in order
to supply the deficiency thus occasioned. This wing contains the apartments
used for the meetings of the Corporation, a Record Boom, and other offices,
all of which overlook the Ouse ; and the elevation of that side, as seen fin>m
the river on its opposite bank, is very beautiful. The lower room of t^s
wing is a spacious apartment, formerly the place of meeting of the Common
Council of the city, when the Corporation consisted of an " upper " and a
'' lower " house, resembling the houses of Lords and Commons, and when the
Lord Mayor stood towards these assemblies in a similar relation to that of
the Sovereign towards the more august assemblies at Westminster. At the
upper end of it is an ofUcial chair, formerly used by the chairman, with a long
oak table and scats for the members of each ward. It is lighted by five
windows, which face the river, and display the royal and city arms in
painted glass. This is now used as the City Orand Jury Boom. A broad
flight of stone steps leads to the chamber immediately over the one jost des-
cribed, which was the assembly room of the Lord Mayor, Recorder, City
Council, Aldermen, Sheriffs, and Gentlemen of the " Twenty-four " or " Upper
House ;" but which is now the Council Chamber of the city. It is equally
spacious with the one below, and has been very neatly fitted up, having a
state chair for the use of the Lord Mayor, and also a seat on each side for
the Recorder, and the City Council or senior Alderman. These chairs arc of
Gothic design, surmounted by some elegantly carved spiral work. A table
runs down the centre, as in the room beneath, over which are suspended, from
a groined ceiling, two neat chandeliers. The windows, which are six lo
number, overlook the Ouse, and are enriched with much beautiiiilly stained
glass, representing the armorial bearings of the city, and of many members
of the Corporation. Against the wall, at the lower end of the chamber, is >
fine piece of plate glass, painted, gilded, and elegantly framed, and bearing
the following inscription :—
" This tablet was emblazoned with the Boyal Arms, on the occasion of ber M^estj
Queen Victoria's visit to York, Friday, the dSth of September, 1840, and was aftervai^
presented to the City Coonoil, by James Meek, Esq., Lord Ifayor.**
Mansion House, — This stately edifice, the official residence of the Lori
Mayors of the city during their term of office, stands at the north end o^
Coney Street, and was erected from a design of that celebrated amateor
TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK. 595
artist, B. Bojle, Earl of Burlington, a nobleman who has been immortalized
by Pope, in the well known line —
"Who plants like Bathurst, and who builds Hke Boyle."
The site of the present erection was formerly occupied by two old buildings,
one of which had been the chapel of the Guild of St. Christopher, and was
afterwards used as a dwelling house and as an inn. Between these two old
houses were gates leading to the Guild Hall; but in 1725 the gates were
removed and the houses taken down, in order to build the present structure,
which was completed the following year at the expense of the Corporation.
The front of the Mansion House has a rusticated basement, which supports
four Ionic pilasters, with an angular pediment, in which are placed the arms
of the city, properly emblazoned. The upper part of the building is of brick.
In front of the house are iron palisades, with sunk areas to give light to the
basement story ; and a flight of steps leads up to the entrance, which is by
folding doors. On the left of the entrance hall is the dining room, not very
spacious, but lofty ; and behind is a small drawing room, divided from the
other by a temporary wooden partition, which can be removed at pleasure,
and the two rooms may thus be thrown into one. From the hall a good
staircase leads to the state room, which apartment is 40 feet 6 inches long,
and 27 feet 9 inches wide, and occupies the entire length of the front, the
ceiling being above the third stoiy of the windows. The entrance is by
folding doors, above which there is an orchestra, supported by two large fluted
columns. The interior of the room is neatly wainscotted, and its general
aspect is good. It is well lighted from the front, by two tiers of windows,
containing Ave each ; and in it are also three large brass chandeliers. There
are two fireplaces in it, one at each end, enriched with vari^ated marble chim-
ney pieces ; and above that, at the upper end, are the Royal Arms, beautifuUy
carved and gilt; whilst at the lower end are displayed the arms of the city,
adorned with the insignia of office.
The PMTUings on the walls are as follows: — ^In the entrance hall — a
full length of the Duke of Richmond, who, with several other noblemen, left
his seat in Parliament, and came to York to pay his duty to Charles I. ; in
the dining room — a half-length portrait of Alderman Carr, who was a con-
siderable contributor to the stock of plate belonging to the Mansion House ;
also, two good pictures of York, one haviog the old, and the other the present
Ouse Bridge in the foreground ; and in the little drawing room is an excel-
lent full-length painting of George Hudson, Esq., in his robes as Lord Mayor
of the city, by Francis Grant, presented to the Corporation by the citizens.
596 TOPOOBAPHT OF TO&K.
Over the chimney piece is a portrait of Mr. Drake, the historian; and
several charters, which have heen granted to the Corporation, are united in
one frame, which hangs against the wall in this room. In the state room
are the following full-length portraits, aU in elegant frames, and nearly equal
in size, each being about 9 feet high, and 6 feet 8 inches wide : — Owrge II,,
presented by the Marquis of Rockingham to the Rockingham Club, at York,
in 1757, and, with their approbation, placed in this room in 1783 ; WilUam
IIL, also presented by the Marquis of Rockingham, and suspended in ^ns
room at the same time; Sir John Lister Kaye, who serred the office of
Lord Mayor in 1737; Lord Bingley, who was Lord Mayor in 1707 ; the Mar-
quia of Eockingham, presented to the Corporation, by Earl Fitzwilliam, in
1783 ; Lord Dundas (Lord Mayor), painted by John Jackson, Esq., R.A., in
1822 ; Sir W, M, Milner, Bart. (Lord Mayor), painted by Hoppner, at the
expense of the Corporation ; and George Prince of Wales (afterwards George
IV.), habited in the robes of the Garter, and accompanied with his black
valet. This latter picture, which is by Hoppner, was presented by his Royal
Highness, to the Lord Mayor and Commonalty, in 1811. The plate of the
Corporation is most valuable and elegant ; the greater part of the collection
has been presented at various times, by members of the corporate body.
The Civic Eegalia consists of two fine swords and the mace, the gold chains
worn by the Lord Mayor and Lady Mayoress, the staff of honour, mentioned
at page 587, and the ancient Cap of Maintenance, noticed at page 146. The
sword ordinarily used is set in rubies, and is mounted with a large crystal,
set transparent. The state sword, only borne before the Sovereign by the
Lord Mayor, is double handled, and of great weight, and has a crimson
velvet sheath, with gold mountings of griffins ; and the mace is of silver gilt
The gold chain worn by the Lord Mayor weighs 15 oz., and the weight of
that worn by the Lady Mayoress is 13 oz.
There being now no salary allowed to the Lord Mayor, the hospitalities of
the Mansion House are maintained at his own expense ; and the festivities
take place in the above-mentioned state room. Part of the open space in
£ront of this mansion was formerly occupied by several old and high houses,
which were purchased and taken down in 1782.
The Judges' House, Lendal. — This building was erected by Dr. Wintring-
ham, an eminent physician of York, who died in 1748, on the site of the
ancient church, or part of the church-yard, of St. Wilfrid's parish. In digging
the foundations of the house several cart-loads of human bones were dis-
covered and removed. After the death of Dr. Wintringham, this residence
was occupied by another celebrated physician, Dr. Dealtry, or Dawtry, who
TOPOORAPHT OF TORK. 697
died in 1778. Part of the kitchen floor originally consisted of sculptured
tomb-stones, the remains of the ancient graye yard. The place of residence
for the Judges of Assize was formerly in a court in Coney Street^ opposite
the George Inn, which being very inconvenient for the purpose, the county
magistrates purchased this building in 1800, out of the county rates, and
appropriated it to the use of the Judges. The present residence is a large
brick mansion, with a double flight of stone steps in front, and before it a
neat court, with trees and shrubs. The exterior has a pleasing efiect, al-
though without any pretension to architectural display.
Assembly BoomSt Blake Street — ^This magnificent structure was designed
by the Earl of Burlington, the architect of the Mansion House, and the
foundation stone of the building was laid by the Lord Mayor on the Ist of
March, 1730. The cost of the site and building (about £5,000.) was raised
by subscription shares of £25. each, or double shares of £50. each ; conse-
quently the property belongs to a select number of shareholders, and the
rooms are only used for the concerts and balls of the nobility and gentry of
the city and county. The front entrance was originally by an ascent of a
few steps, under a portico resting upon light stone columns, and surmounted
by balustrades ; but in 1828 a new and elegant facade was erected, from the
designs of Messrs. Pritchett and Sons, of York. It consists of a centre and
wings, slightly marked ; the former is wholly occupied by a handsome por-
tico of four Ionic columns, with a pediment Under this portico is a spacious
doorway with a lintelled head. The wings are recessed with a half Ionic
column on each side of a window, and this portion of the building is finished
with a balustrade. The vestibule or grand entrance is 82 feet by 21, and 21
feet high ; on each side of it is another vestibule, and behind are rooms and
offices used for domestic purposes. Behind the right vestibule is a circular
apartment, 21 feet in diameter, with a cupola, 45 feet in height
The Egyptian Hall, or grand Assembly Room, is a magnificent apartment,
112 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 40 feet high. This room is from a design
of the celebrated Palladio ; the lower part is of the Corinthian order ; and
the wall above is supported by forty-four elegant columns and capitals (six-
teen on each side of the room, and six at each end), ornamented with a
beautiful cornice. The upper part of the building is of the Composite order,
adorned with festoons of oak leaves and acorns. The room is lighted by
forty-four windows, which project inward from the lower side walls, and are
supported by the same number of pilasters. Behind the columns a passage
runs round the room, and in the walls of it are forty-five recesses. Dr.
Smollett, in the second volume of his ** Expedition of Humphrey Clinker,'*
698 TOPOOBAPHT OF TOBK.
pays this room the following compliment : — " The Assembly Room seems to
me to hare been built upon a design of Palkdio, and might be conTorted into
an elegant place of worship ; but it is indifferently contrived for that sort of
idolatry which is performed in it at present; the grandeur of the fane gives
a diminutive effect to the little painted divinities that are adored in it ; and
the company, on a ball night, must look like an assembly of &ntastic fedries
revelling by moonlight among the columns of a Grecian temple."
Adjoining this is the lesser assembly room, 60 feet by 8d, and Sd feet high,
and which is always used on occasions when the larger one is not required.
It is fitted up with requisite accommodations for the purpose, and at the end
of it is a small organ, which, however, is never used. The ceiling is orna-
mented in stucco. For upwards of a century these rooms were lighted with
wax candles, fixed in large glass chandeliers, which were suspended from the
top of the rooms. The great facilities afforded of late years by the railways to
parties desirous of attending the large balls, annually given by the Yorkshire
Hunt Club and the Yeomanry Cavalry, &c., have caused the directors to
give their attention to the more efficient lighting and ventilating the rooms.
Within the last few years the glass chandeliers have been removed from
the large room, and a continued series of gas lights arranged above the
cornice, as also a row of projecting gas lights, with glass globes, round the
lower part of the room. This extremely brilliant illuminating power gives to
the room an amount of light far beyond conception, and renders it a most
beautiful spectacle. Three large ventilators have also been placed in the roof
of the room, the effect of which is to render it comparatively cod when con-
taining from eight to nine hundred persons. The building stands near the
site of the ancient parish church of St. Wilfrid. A few years ago, when the
floor of the large room was relaid, several portions of an ancient porch, which
from the remains must have been nearly as fine as that of St Margaret's
Church, York, were found near the base of some of the columns which deco-
rate the room ; and which, in all probability, belonged to that church. A
large circular stone well, supposed to be of Saxon construction, was also
discovered in the centre of the same room, and from it the building is
supplied with very fine water.
The assemblies at these rooms are now very weU attended, though th^
were much exceeded by those of the close of the last century, when York was
the metropolis of the north, and the centre of attraction.
Festival Concert Boom, Museum Street. — The Assembly Booms not being
snfficientiy large for the great audiences that usually attended the grand
evening concerts of the Yorkshire Musical Festivals, it was resolved to exwi
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 699
a new concert room, so that the public may be well accommodated, and those
charities, to whose benefit the funds of the festiyals were appropriated, might
not continue to suffer loss. The foundation stone of the building was laid
on the 28th of July, 1834, by the Rt Hon. William Dunslay, Lord Mayor,
and the cost of the erection was defrayed chiefly out of the proceeds of the
festival of the preceding year. The structure is spacious and elegant, and
stands behind the Assembly Room, with which it is connected by a pair of
folding doors, which are thrown open on extraordinary occasions. The in-
ternal dimensions of the room are 95 feet in length, 60 feet in breadth, and
45 feet in height, exclusive of the orchestra, which occupies a semi-circular
recess at one end, and will accommodate 144 performers. A gallery 20 feet
deep fills the other end of the room. When filled the room will hold about
2,000 persons, without the orchestra. The walls are coloured a pale straw
tint, and at intervals occur Ionic pilasters, which support a superb frieze,
modelled after the antique, by Rossi. The ceiling is designed in panels, and
has a tasteful appearance. A cast of the Apollo stands upon the landing of
the gallery steps. Since the discontinuance of the musical ^ratiTals, this
room has chiefly been used for concerts, balls, and public meetings. The
entire property of the room is vested in the hands of trustees for the benefit of
the York County Hospital, and the Infirmaries of Leeds, HuU, and Sheffield.
The York Choral Society, an association of amateurs, are tenants of the
room for a specified number of evenings in the year, when their concerts
take place. The musical performances of this society have for several yeai^
been amongst the most delightful amusements connected witii the city.
The society was instituted in 1888, and its sole object is the performance
of vocal and instrumental music. Meetings for practice take place once a
week, and four public concerts are given in each year. Every member sub-
scribing 5s. per ann., receives two tickets for each concert ; and subscribers
of lOs. per ann. have four tickets for each concert Performing members do
not pay anything, and they receive two tickets each for every concert The
concerts are of a mixed character — one part being sacred and the other
msBcellaneoas — and professional talent, vocal and instrumental, is engaged
according to circumstances. The society numbers about 300 members^
amongst whom are the Archbishop of York, the Hon. Lady Musgrave,
Lord Wenloek, the Dowager Lady Wenlock, the Dean of York, the Hon.
and Rev. S. W. Lawley, Rector of Escrick, and most of the gentry of the
city and neighbourhood.
Theatre Bayal. — The present Theatre^ which is a curious looking brick
building, was first opened in the month of January, 1765, by Mr. Baker,
600 TOPOGRAPHY OF TORK.
the predecessor, and afterwards the partner, of Mr. Tate Wilkinson. It was
erected on the site of a more ancient building, in which theatrical representa*
tion were exhibited. Mr. Wilkinson afterwards procured a Royal Patent for
it, and conducted the establishment with much credit to himself, till his
death, in 1805. During his life this theatre was second only to the great
national theatre in Drury Lane, London, and a great many of the best actors,
who at different times have adorned the London stage, were reared on the
York '' boards." The late celebrated Charles Matthews was one of the most
illustrious of these, and one of the most interesting parts of the memoir of
that great artiste, published by his widow, relates to the period when he was
a member of Mr. Wilkinson's Company.
The present front towards St. Leonard's Place (the entrance to the boxes),
with its arcade, was erected on the formation of that beautiful crescent Pre-
viously the only entrance was from the top of Blake Street, throng the
present doors which lead to the pit and gallery. That part of the building
abutting on St Leonard's Place, stands upon an ancient stone vault, sup-
posed by some to be part of the remains of St. Leonard's Hospital, and bj
others to be one of the crypts of St. Peter's Church, which was destroyed by
fire in King Stephen's reign, a.d. 1137.*
The interior of the theatre, which is spacious, has been several times re-
modelled, and for its size is now one of the prettiest play-houses in the
kingdom. The stage is 87 feet deep by 44 high. The company of the Yoi^
Theatrical Circuit, which includes Leeds and Hull, usually commences their
" season " here in March ; but the theatre is also open in the race and o&er
public weeks. The house adjoining the old entrance to the theatre was for-
merly the residence of the manager.
The large house at the upper end of Blake Street, near the theatre, wis
erected by Sir William Robinson, Bart, an ancestor of the present EmA ^
Grey, who was then representative of YoriL in Parliament. In front are ^^
arms of the city, which were placed there by Sir William, merely on acootint
of his holding the ground by lease from the Corporation.
Yorkshire Club House.— The " Yorkshire Club," for the nobility and gentiy
of the county, was established in 1888, and the Club House, which is &
handsome building, is in the centre of the crescent called St Leonard's
Place. The Club numbers about 340 members ; the entrance fee of each
member is ten guineas, and the annual subscription is £5.
• These vaults, which are very perfect, and supported by short massy pillars, are ^
used as porter stores.
TUFOUKAPHY OF YOBK. 001
De Orey Rooms. — This building is also in St. Leonard s Place, and i» the
property of a Joint Stock Company, with a capital of iB6,000., in £^6. shares.
The company was formed in 1841, and the building commenced forthwith.
It is chiefly intended for the accommodation of the mess of the officers of the
Yorkshire Hussars, during the annual visit of that regiment to York, and
the barristers* ordinary at the Assizes, but it is often used for concerts, balls,
public entertainments, and meetings. A large number of the shares are held
by the officers of the regiment, and the gentlemen of the northern circuit
The exterior of the house is handsome, the principal story having seven
tall circuhu>headed windows, in front of which a parapet and iron balustrade
runs the whole length of the building. The principal room is a very fine
apartment, partly lighted from the top. There is an orchestra at the end of
it, and from the wall hangs a fine whole length painting of Earl de Grey, in
full costume, as Colonel of the Yorkshire Hussars.
The County Gaolf commonly called York Ccatle, occupies, as we have
shown at page 337, the site of an ancient fortress, which was converted into
a county prison after it ceased to be a military post. Previous to the altera-
tions, which commenced in 1826, the entrance to the Castle was by folding
doors, and a porter^s lodge, from Castlegate, on the north side of Clifford's
Tower, and a stone, with the City Arms carved thereon, might have been
seen within twenty yards of the gates, to mark the boundary of the city ; and
on the opening of the Assizes, the SherifiGs of York waited here to receive the
Judge, and accompany him to the Guild-Hall. The present entrance is firom
Tower Street, at the south side of Clifford's Tower. The great gate of
entrance, which is pointed, has now a very imposing appearance, being
flanked by two massy circular towers, with embattled parapets, loopholes, <&c.
Over the doorway, in a small panel, are the Koyal Arms of George IV.,
carved in imitation of those of the period of Edward IV . From the top of
this structure rises a subordinate square building, with small turrets at the
angles, and the whole has a very bold but yet chaste appearance. The gate-
house, which is fire proof, was erected from the designs of the late P. F.
Robinson, Esq., F.S.A. ; the first stone having been laid on the 30th of
March, 1820, by the Hon. M. Langley, High Sheriff of Yorkshire. The
interior of the left hand tower, and the building over the archway, are fitted
up for a record room and offices for the clerk of Assize, Ac. ; and the petty
sessions for the three Ridings are held in the office of the clerk of Assize.
The right hand tower is the porter's residence. The lo% and splendid walls,
which circumscribe a large area, enclosing the old gaol, Clifford's Tower, &c.,
^were rebuilt at the same time, in a style uniform with that of the gateway,
4 H
602 XOPOORAPHT OF YORK.
having uumerous buttresses at regular intervals, with an embattled parapet
A broad semicircolar avenue round the north side of the base of Clifford's
Tower, leads to the inner entrance to the Castle yard. The whole of the
buildings, the area of Clifford's Tower, and the outer walls, cover nearly eight
acres> The interior walls of the Castle yard are 1,100 yards in circum-
ference, enclosing a pleasant and open area of about one acre, with a large
grass plot in the centre, and a gravel walk entirely round it The county
meetings for the election of Knights of the shire and other public business,
are held in this yard, which will contain about 40,000 people. The bmldings
form three sides ef the square, the fourth side being partly formed by the
mound upon which stand the ruins of Clifford's Tower.
The Old Bwldingzy which occupy, as we have stated, the site of the
towers of the ancient castle, were completed in 1706; the expense being
defrayed by a tax of three-pence in the pound on all lands, &c., in the county
of Yoris, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament This building consists of a
centre and two projecting wings, and a handsome turret surmounts the centre
of the edifice, with a dock and belL Until the new buildings were opened,
this edifice was tiie piison for d^tors and felons, and also the governor's
apartments and the chapel ; but since then it is set apart exdusively for the
confinement of male debtors.
In 1825 the Magistrates of the county purchased and enclosed a con-
siderable space north east of Clifford's Tower, and in the following year the
erection of the new prison and the other alterations commenced. The new
felons' gad forms the semi-diameter of a cirde, vritii the governor's honse in
the centre, and there is not in England a more handsome or better con-
structed prison. The governor's house is an exceedingly neat bmlding,
circular in shape, and so constructed that the whole prison may be inspected
from it The prison consists of four radiating double lines of building, with
eight airing courts. To each prisoner is allotted a distinct cell, but there
are cells in each ward which will accommodate three prisoners each. The
buildings are five proof, and contrived with great ingenuity to prevoit the
escape of the persons confined. The entire cost of the works was igd08,530.,
and was discharged by an annual rate of l^d. in the pound during the twelve
years the alterations were in progress. York Castle now affi>rds acoommo-
dation to about SOO criminal prisoners, and 160 debtors.
• On the Castle Hill, before the building of the new walls, were several gentiemen^
bouses, one of which was oooupied hj Sir Henry Thompson, of EscridE, ^o reivreaenteA
York in four Parliaments in the reign of Charles XL
TOPOORAPHT OF YORK. 603
The large and handsome building opposite the county courts contains the
chapel and the female wards, both criminals and debtors. It was erected in
1780/ and considerably enlarged three years afterwards. The whole length
of this building is 150 feet, and its front is adorned with an elegant colonnade
with four Ionic pillars, corresponding to the County Hall. In a smaU room
near the governor's house, are presenred the curiosities of the Castle, quaintly
called the King's Plate, consisting of the deadly weapons with which murders
have been committed, and the heavy chains of the most notorious malefactors
who have been at different times confined in the Castle, and amongst them
are the massive irons with which the noted highwayman Dick Turpin was
bound. There are also casts, in plaster, of several criminals who were exe-
cuted here. Mr. John Noble is the present governor.
The County HaU stands on the west side of the entrance to the court yard.
This part of the Castle was built at the expense of the county in 1078, and
rebuilt by the same means in 1777. It is an elegant structure of the Ionic
order, 160 feet in length and 45 in breadth. The entrance to it is by a por-
tico of four Ionic columns, 80 feet in height, and attached antaB, over which
is a pediment, surmounted by a statue of Justice and other emblematical
figures. The front corresponds in style, size, and elegance, with the noble
building standing opposite to it. The interior is divided into three parts.
At the south end is the Crown Court, for criminal proceedings ; at the north
end the Nisi Prkia Court, for civil business. In the middle is a large
vestibule, into which open several supplementary offices. The courts are
crowned with a dome, ten feet high, supported by twelve Corinthian columns.
Behind the Grand Jury room is the place for the execution of criminals,
where a temporary scaffolding is erected for the purpose. It was first used
for the sacrifice of human life to the offended laws, on the 9Bth of August,
180d ; and previous to that date, felons, condemned to die, were executed at
Tyburn, near the race course.
In 1805 or 1806, the workmen who were preparing to erect the present
wall behind the Grand Jury room, discovered the remains of a Roman wall,
upon which ancient foundation they raised the new wall. A block of free
stone, inscribed Civitati, in Norman characters, was also found at the same
time, whilst the men were digging a drain, which was supposed to have been
a boundary stone, placed there in the reign of the Conqueror. Though the
Assizes for the three Ridings are held here, the Castle ia not within any of
them, nor is it in the jurisdiction of the city ; it is Extra-Parochial, though
it is assessed, and bears charges to the parish of St. Mary, Castlegate. The
604 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
High Sheriff of Yorkshire for the present year (1B55) is James Brown, Esq.,
of Copgrove, near Knareshorough.
The City Home of Correction, formerly the City Gaol, for the use of the
city and Ainsty, was erected near the site of the Skeldei^te Postern, and
close heueath the Baile Hill, between the years 1802 and 1807. The ga4^
for the imprisonment and oorrection of ** lesser criminals," was formerly a
part of St. Anthony's Hall, on Peaseholme Green ; bat in the year 1814 a
new House of Correction was completed on Toft Green, at the joint expense
of the city and Ainsty. After the latter district was added to the county tn
1836, all the committals from that quarter were, of course, made to York
Castle, and the gaol on Toft Green was afterwards sold to the Railway Com-
pany, for dS5,000., and its site is now included in the Railway Station.
A contract has been entered into between the Corporation of the city
and the Magistrates of the county, for the custody of the city criminals,
and debtors at the Castle, so that the business of the present gaol is now
confined to the safe keeping and correction of persons convicted of minor
offences. The executions at this prison, whilst it was used as the city
gaol, were happily very rare ; but when they did occur, the horrid ceremony
took place on a scaffold erected without the wall, next to the Old Baile Hil),
and an opening was made in the wall to admit the culprit to pass through.
The edifice is entirely of stone, surrounded by a high brick wall. The prin-
cipal building consists of a centre and wings, the former furnished with a
pediment. On the roof of this building is an octagonal turret, with an
hemispherical dome and vane. There are cells for the accommodatioo of
seventy prisoners. Mr. John Raper is the present governor.
On the east side of the old Ouse bridge stood a Ocud for Debton, which
was built in the 16th century. In 1724 this gaol, and a small dwelliiig
house ac^oining, were purchased by the Corporation. They were immedi-
ately taken down, and a more commodious prison erected, but this was
removed in 1810, when the present bridge across the Ouse was built Drake
tells us that the high tower of Monk Bar was formerly used as a prison for
the freemen of the city.
Post Office, Lendal. — This is a plain but commodious brick building, onc^
story in height, erected in 1840. The business of the Post Office was pre-
viously attended to, for more than a century, in the first building in Lendal,
near the Mansion House. Mr. Joshua Oldfield is the postmaster.
Trade Halls. — As has already been observed, there were formerly here
several trading guilds or fraternities possessing many peculiar privileges, nov
T0P06RAFHT OF YORK. 605
obselete. Many of these guilds possessed common halls, and two of them
are yet in existence.
The Merchants* Hall, or '' Cfilda Mercatomm" York, is situated in Foss-
gate, and is the property of '* The Merchant Adventurers' Company,*' ori>
ginally established in this city at a veiy early period. This company being
free of the five Hanse towns, enjoyed many valuable privileges on the impor-
tation of goods hence ; but it has survived all the fluctuations, and the final
decline of the foreign commerce of the city. The Reform Bill of 1832
deprived this and aU similar firatemities of the remnant of their privileges ;
but the funds of this company having been extended by several considerable
donations, it yet exists, but more in the character of a charitable body than
that of a society of merchants. The ancient seal of the company is stOl
preserved. It is of brass, and is in fine preservation. It exhibits two figures
— one of the Blessed Virgin, and the other a personification of Commerce ;
'* thus denoting that the mercantile institution was grafted on one which
originally had been monastic." The legend or inscription is as follows : —
**SigiUum CanobU hoipUaliUr fratrvm et sororum Beata Maria Virginis Juxta
Portam Fossa Ebor. ;" which is thus translated — '* Seal of the Monastery of
the brethren and sisters of the Blessed Virgin Mary, near Fossgate, York."
The Hall is of great antiquity, and is stated by tradition to have been built
out of the remains of a religious house, called Trinity Chapel. A piece of
garden ground behind the building is supposed to have been used as a place
of interment ; quantities of human bones having been thrown up at various
periods. Over the entrance gateway are the corroded arms of the Merchants
of the Staple. A flight of stone steps from the court yard leads to the prin-
cipal rooms in the hall, which consist of two antique apartments, each 65
feet long, 25 feet wide, and about 14 feet in height, which originally formed
one room. The inner room, which is neatiy fitted up, and ornamented with
several good portraits of different Governors of the Company, as well as a full
length portrait of George I., is the one in which the Company holds its
quarterly courts, and breakfast or dine together twice a year ; and the other
large room is used occasionaUy for public meetings and exhibitions. On the
ground floor is a small chapel, and a hospital for ten poor people, called
Trinity Hospital. The chapel was built in 1411, and repaired at various
periods. Divine service is performed in it for the Company on the 26th of
March — called the Charter Day — and on one or two other days in the year.
The hospital has already been described at page 575 of this history. The
workmanship of this ancient hall is very massy, the waUs are of great thick-
ness, and the roof is composed of immense planks of fine old English oak, in
606 TOFOORAPHT OF TORK.
excellent preservation. There are records in the chest of the Merchants*
Company of as early a date as the reign of King Stephen. Persons serving
an apprenticeship of eight years to a " Merchant *' of the Company, become
members upon payment of some small fees ; and others become " Merchant
Adventurers/* by being elected by ballot, and by paying an entrance fine.
There are now about forty members in the Company.
Merchant Tailan' Hall, — ^This building is situated in a court in Aldwaik,
aud belongs to the ancient Company of Merchant Tailors of York ; which
fraternity now resembles the Merchant Adventurers' Company in every pcur-
ticular: the privileges of the members are merely nominal. They hold
meetings in their hall, and on the SOth of June the anniversary of the Com-
pany is celebrated, when they elect officers for the ensuing year, and attend
a sermon in the church of St. Crux, which is preached on that day by their
chaplain. The Hall is an ancient red brick building, the principal room of
which is spacious, and was formerly occupied as a theatre. It is now used
as a National School for girls. This room had formerly an arched wooden
roof, now concealed by one of plaster. In the window is a piece of stained
glass, representing two angels supporting a bust of Queen Anne, and be-
neath are the arms of the Company, with the following inscription : —
" This Company had beene dignified in the yeare 1679 by haoing in their fratarnity
eight Kings, eleven Dnkes, thirty Earles, and forty-four Lords."
The ancient hospital or almshouses in connection with this fraternity has
been already noticed at page 57S of this history.
The Merchant Tailors' Company possess some ancient plate, consisting of
four pieces of silver, viz., two tankards, a large cup, and a salver. There is
here, as in some other cities, a OoldsmiUis* Company, which is authorized by
Act of Parliament to elect two Wardens annually, and also to appoint an
Assay Master.
The Haberdashers' Hall stood in Walmgate, at the comer of Neutgate
Lane, now St. George's Street, and was erected by Sir Eobert Watter, Ent,
who served the office of Lord Mayor in the years 1591 and 1603. He was
a member of the Haberdashers' Company, and he built the hall for his
brethren of the trade to assemble in. It was a very ancient timber building,
and after it ceased to be used by the Haberdashers, it was divided and let
in small tenements. It was removed a few years ago, when the street was
improved and widened. Sir R. Watter founded an hospital or almshouse in
this locality, which is noticed at page 576 of this volume.
The Company of Cordwainers was another of the fraternities which were
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 607
united at York, for the protection and encouragement of tbeir respective
trades. A large and handsome bowl, which belong to them, is now deposited
in the vestiy of the Minster. (See page 439.) This Company was dissolved
in 1808. The almshouse, called Maison Dieu, noticed at 571, was con-
nected with it.
Medical Institutions. — York County Hospital, Monkgate. — This insti-
tution chiefly owes its foundation to a legacy of £500. left in 1740, by Lady
Elizabeth Hastings, " for the relief of the deceased poor of the city and county
of York." This fund being augmented about the same time by other bene-
volent persons, the hospital was soon after erected. The building, which
stood in Monkgate, having become inadequate to the requirements of the
institution — ^in consequence of the great increase in the population — ^it was
taken down in 1850, and the present hospital was erected and opened in
1851. It stands several yards to the rear of the spot upon which the old
hospital stood, and is an elegant and extensive range of buildings, four stories
in height, with a handsome Italian front. The basement story is of stone,
and the remainder of the building is of red brick, with cut stone dressings.
The cost of the structure was about £11,000., of which sum £7,000. was
raised by subscription in the county, and the remainder was taken from the
funds of the charity. The Messrs. Atkinson, of York, were the architects.
The interior is perfect in its arrangements, and will accommodate 130
patients. Persons suffering from infectious or contagious disorders are not
admitted as in-patients. The number of patients annually admitted into the
hospital is about 500. The annual income of the institution, including real
and personal estates, subscriptions, &c., now amounts to about £8,000.
Clinical lectures are given by the physicians and surgeons of the hospital,
and certificates of attendance on the medical and surgical practice of the
hospital, coiyointiy with the dispensaiy, are received by the Boyal College of
Boigeons, and the Society of Apothecaries, London. The government of the
hospital is vested in the hands of the trustees and governors, who hold
quarterly courts in the board room.
The Medical Ldhrary was established in 1810 by the subscriptions and
donations of eighteen members of the medical profession, resident in York,
aided by the contributions of several of their fellow citizens, who were friends
to tiie diffusion of medical knowledge. In order to secure the perpetuity of
the institution, as well as to avoid the expense of rent and a librarian's
salary, it was resolved that the books should be the property of the trustees
of the County Hospital ; the office of librarian being, with the consent of the
governors of the hospital, annexed to that of house-surgeon. The library is
608 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
regularly enriched by the best medical publications of the day, and it now
contains about 1,000 volumes of the most valuable standard medical works,
and some of the best and most expensive anatomical plates published. It is
under the exclusive management of its subscribers, who must be medical
practitioners residing in York. The medical officers of the hospital enjoy
no privileges distinct from the rest, with regard to the use and management
of the library. The annual subscription is one guinea.
The York School of Medicine was established in 1834, the County Hospital
and the Dispensary being united in its formation. The session is divided
into two terms, a winter and a summer term ; during which period lectures
are delivered to the students in the lecture room of the County Hospital, by
several able medical gentlemen resident in the city. The Museum of Ana-
tomy, comprising the collection of the late Mr. James Atkinson, is open to
the students daily during the session. Attendance on the course of lectures
also qualifies for examination at the Royal College of Surgoons, and at
Apothecaries* Hall, London.
The Medical Society was founded in 1882, for the advancement and dif-
fusion of medical knowledge. Its meetings are held at the Dispensary oa the
evenings of every alternate Saturday, from the beginning of October to the
end of April. There is a Medical Library in connection with this Society.
York Dispensary, New Street. — This institution for the relief of the fflck
poor was opened in 1788. It is maintained by subscription, and is one of
the most efficient and truly useful charities of the city. It was originallj
conducted in a room in the Merchants* Hall, Foss-gate, from whence, in
1806, it was removed to St Andrewgate, where it continued tiU the erection
of the present building ; the foundation stone of which was laid in 1827, by
the late Mr. Alderman Wilson. The cost of the erection was ^£1,950.,
including the site, and it was opened in 1838. It is a neat stone edifice*
with a small Doric portico of four columns. The interior is well arranged,
having a large waiting room, with a lantern light, with the various offices
around it. Some of the principal medical men of the city are connected
with this dispensary.
The Institution for Diseases of the Ear, Merchant's Hall, Fossgate, whicb
is the only one in the north of England devoted exclusivelj to the treatment
of affections of the organ of hearing, was opened about four years ago>
chiefly through the instrumentality of James Allen, Esq., of this city, vbo
is now the treasurer of the institution. It is supported by voluntary oontn-
butions, and gratuitous advice is afiforded to the poor every Saturday «^
noon. Mr. Oswald A. Moore is the surgeon.
TOPOORAPHT or YORK. 609
The Inttitutionfar Dise(ue$ of the Eye, Merchant Tailors' Hall, Aldwark,
was established in 1831, for the relief of the poor, labouring under diseases
of the eye. Attendance on Tuesdays and Saturdays at IS o'clock. A donor
of JS5., or an annual subscriber of 10s., has the right of recommending
patients, and of voting at general meetings. The medical officers are Dr.
Belcombe, physician, and Messrs. Reed and Paley, surgeons.
The Homeopathic Diepemary, Bootham, was founded in 1851, for the cure
of cases solely on Homeopathic principles.
Aeylttmfor the Insane , Bootham. — Established in pursuance of resolutions
passed at a county meeting, held in the Castle of York, on the 27th of
August, 1772. The original intention was to confine it to pauper lunatics
only, or to such as belonged to indigent families. The present site was pur-
chased ; a plan was prepared for a building calculated to contain 54 patients ;
and on the 20th of September, 1777, the building being nearly completed,
apartments were opened for ten patients at 8s. per week. At this time there
were only four similar institutions in the kingdom, namely, two in London, one
at Manchester, and the other at Newcastle. In August, 1784, it was deter-
mined that a limited number of opulent patients should be admitted for the
benefit of the institution, and in 1795 an extensive wing was added to the
premises. The false principles upon which most of our institutions for the
treatment of lunatics were formerly conducted, prevailed in this asylum. In
1818 Mr. S. Tuke published his account of the " Retreat *' Lunatic Asylum,
and a passage in it, recommending a more mild method of treatment for the
insane, than had been generally adopted, was made the subject of a letter
from the physician of this asylum (Dr. Best), in one of the York news-
papers. A public controversy on the subject ensued, which terminated fa-
tally to the physician, though beneficially to the asylum. An investigatioa
into the alleged abuses of the institution was set on foot, and it soon became
evident that but very defective attention was paid to the comfort, clothing,
and diet of the inmates, and to the ventilation and cleanliness of the establish-
ment Whilst the investigation was pending, and whilst public attention
was excited towards the asylum, a detached wing of the building was acci-
dentally destroyed by fire, on the evening of the 28th of December, 1814.
This dreadful calamity was still more afiecting, from the circumstance of
many of the patients being locked up in their rooms, and from the principal
part of the servants being from home ; the sad consequence being that four
patients, who had been chained to the walls, perished in the flames. The
premises were insured in the County Fire Office for the sum of £2,892. A
further investigation immediately ensued, which led to the exposure of some
4 I
610' TOPOORAPHT OF YORK.
shameful and even criminal abuses ; and the whole terminated in the dis-
missal of every servant and officer employed in attending on the patients, the
resignation of the physician, and the complete reorganization of the whole
establishment, under the direction of the superintendent of the before-men-
tioned Retreat ; and since that period the institution has been in efficient
and prosperous operation, and the rate of mortality has materially diminished.
" The York Lunatic Asylum, in the bestowal of its charity," says the Report
of the Medical Superintendent for the year ending June 1st, 1853, "is not
limited to the upper and wealthier classes, it extends its benefits alike to the
reduced and the comparatively indigent. It receives patients suffering under
every form and in every stage of mental derangement : it shelters alike the
raving maniac of but a few days, and the hopeless imbecile of a score years/*
The Building is of red brick, and is a handsome structure, 182 feet long,
52 feet in depth, and three stories high. The ascent to it is by five stone
steps ; the lowest story is rustic, from which four stone columns are carried
up to the entablature, which is finished by a pediment On the top of the
building is an elegant cylindrical bell tower, surrounded with small columns,
and surmounted with a cupola and vane. The ground floor comprises six
day rooms for the patients, with access to five airing courts adjoining the
building ; a broad and handsome staircase leads to the two upper stories, in the
first of which are two sitting rooms and several bed rooms, ranged on each
side of a long gallery. The other story is constructed in the same way, and
comprises lodging rooms only. Behind the front building is a small octagon
erection, containing the kitchen, and a sitting room for females, and near it
is a building containing a series of apartments for female patients, which was
erected at a great expense, and opened in 1817. The house is surrounded
by gardens and pleasure grounds, and contains all the modem improvements
connected witli the treatment of lunacy. The non-restraint system is carried
out tx) a considerable extent; and amongst the usual amusements of the
patients are chess, drafts, cards, music, cricket, &c.
At the opening of the Pauper Lunatic Asylum for the North and East
Ridings, about thirty paupers were removed to it from this institution, and
since that time no pauper lunatic has been an inmate here. The chief officers
of this institution are a physician, Dr. Simpson ; medical superintendent. Dr.
Edward Simpson ; chaplain, Rev. Thomas Richardson ; and secretary, Mr.
W. H. Howard. The income of the establishment is derived chiefly from
the charge to patients for board, attendance, &c. ; from dividends of certain
stock in the funds, and from rents. Its management is in the hands of a
committee of governors.
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 611
The Rfitreat LuiuUic Asylum, Heslington Road. — This excellent institution
was projected by the late Mr. William Tuke, of York, for persons afflicted
with disorders of the mind, among the Society of Friends, in consequence of
the unsatisfactory treatment and death of one of that persuasion, at an estab-
lishment for the insane, during the year 1791. Mr. Tuke was aided in his
exertions to establish this asylum by Lindley Murray, the celebrated gram-
marian, and several other individuals; and though many objections were
raised against a proposal so novel, and considerable difficulties had to be
overcome, yet a subscription was at length opened, and a fund was formed for
its establishment In 1794 nearly twenty acres of land were purchased for
£2,325., but it being afterwards thought too much, eight acres of it were
disposed of for the sum of £968., and the building was commenced on the
remaining eleven acres. The asylum was at first designed solely for the
members of the Society of Friends, but has since been extended to others
connected with them. In 1796 the house was opened for the reception of
patients, and from that time to the present it has uninterruptedly enjoyed
the care and interests of the descendants of its projector. Before the opening
of this institution the treatment of the insane, in the various asylums, was
harsh in the extreme, and it frequently amounted to brutal coercion ; but
those who have been the supporters and managers of tlie Eetreat have the
enviable satisfaction of knowing, that by the gentlest and most amiable
means, they have accomplished an amount of good, and conferred a degree of
happiness on thousands, which scarcely can be overstated. The Retreat is
situated on an eminence, in the purest air, and commanding extensive and
interesting prospects over the city and the delightful vale of York.
The Buildings are all of brick, and are very extensive as well as imposing.
They have recently undergone extensive alterations and improvements ; two
of the old wings, which were originally built for the accommodation of the
violent patients, have been removed, and replaced by lai^e and handsome
structures, embracing every modem improvement in the construction of
dwellings for the insane, and calculated to facilitate the carrying out, in a
still more complete manner, the principles of treatment adopted from the
foundation of the establishment. A new meeting house too has been recently
added. The whole pile of buildings consist chiefly of a centre and four
wings, presenting imposing fronts facing both north and south. The airing
grounds, gardens, &c., now extend over thirty acres, and the expense of
forming the whole establishment has not been less than £30,000. The
institution embraces all classes of patients '' from the labourer to the wealthy
gentleman, and from the servant to the sensitive and delicate lady." ThjB
6Id TOPOGBAPBT OF TOBX.
osjlum will now accommodate 120 patients, all of whom, except those of the
higher classes, must he memhers or nearly connected with the Society of
Friends. The general management of the institution is ander the care of
a hody of directors and a committee, and the medical officers are Mr. John
Hitching, superintendent, and Messrs. Caleh Williams and D. H. Toke.i'
Pauper JjuruUic Asylwn, Clifton. — The North and East Ridings of York-
shire joined in the erection of this institution, and it was opened for the
reception of the insane poor of both Ridings in the year 1847. Provi8i<m
was made for 150 patients; but in three years afterwards such was the
increase in the number of patients that ^e buildings were enlarged so as to
make them capable of receiving 312 patients. The land for the asylum cost
jeiO,000. ; the fabric, £35,000. ; and the fittings, £5,000. The total outlay
on the establishment, £50,150. or about £167. per head upon the patients
accommodated there — a sum which falls considerably short of the Avenge of
the seventeen other asylums of a similar character which have been erected.
The average cost of the other asylums is at the rate of £194. per head. It
is to be deplored that in the two Ridings there appears to be a steadily
growing increase of lunatic patients. In 1847, when the asylum was opened,
there were 122 inmates; in 1854 there were 303; and in the last annual
report of the Medical Superintendent, the asylum was full, and fifteen patients
had been refused admittance for want of accommodation. In consequence of
this state of things, and as the law requires the Ridings to provide an asylum
for their insane paupers, it has been resolved to enlarge the buildings of the
institution, by the erection of two wings for male and female patients respec-
tively, each wing to accommodate about seventy patients. At the Easter
Quarter Sessions just passed, the Magistracy of the two Ridings voted the
sum of £12,000. (the estimated cost of the additional buildings, fittings, &c.),
of which the proportion for the North Riding will be £7,125., and that of
the East Riding, £4,875. By the 0th section of the Lunatic Asylum Act,
of 1853, the borough of Richmond is now annexed to the North Riding
for the purposes of the insane poor. The asylum is situated near the village
of Clifton, about one mile and a half from the city of York.
The Buildings, which form an extensive and handsome pile, in the Eliza-
bethan style of architecture, stand in a garden of thirty acres, attached to
which is a grazing farm of fifty acres. The grounds are laid down with
much taste, and the house is approached by a handsome avenue. The
• For ftirther partioulars of this Institation see the ** Description of the Betreat,* by
Bunuel Take, 4to., and " The Statistiee of <he Betreat^* 6vo.
TOPOORAPHT OF YORK. 618
groonds afford healthy and profitable employment for the inmates, upon whom
the occupations of garden and farm labour, and the various diversions of a
rural life, are found to be of the most consoling and tranquillizing tendency.
The old methods of restraint in the treatment of the insane are dispensed
with in this institution, and everything assumes as lively and cheerful an
aspect as possible. Besides gardening and farming, the patients are exten-
sively employed in various handicrafts — the males are employed as tailors,
shoemakers, bricklayers, masons, blacksmiths, carpenters, wheelwrights, &c. ;
and the females in sewing, knitting, straw-plaiting, washing, ironing, assisting
in the kitchen, and general household duties. The system of keeping the
patients to employments adapted to their capacities has been found to act
most favourably on their minds, besides the profits of their labours materially
diminish their cost to the public.
City Insane Paupers, — Under the provisions of the Lunatic Asylum Act,
passed in 1858, it has become imperative on the city of York either to erect
a lunatic asylum for the reception of their own pauper lunatics, or to enter
into an arrangement with some acyoining asylum, for the reception of those
lunatics. It does not appear to be the intention of the citizens to erect a
suitable building at present, but to go on paying for their insane paupera in
the private asylums, at the rate of about 10s. per week.
LiTEBABT, &c., Ikstitutions. — Yorkshire Philosophical Society, — Towards
the dose of the year 18Q2, a few gentlemen of the city and its vicinity, to
whom various branches of natural science, and especially geology, were
favourite objects of pursuit, conceived the idea of establishing such a society,
and forthwith put the design into execution. The society soon increased iu
numbers and importance ; a museum was formed, into which valuable con-
tributions liberally flowed; and it became evident that no premises not
expressly designed for the purpose would be adequate to the wants, or suitable
to the views of the society. In 1827 they obtained from the Crown a grant
of nearly three acres of land — ^part of the close of the Abbey of St. Mary,
commonly called the Manor Shore, for the purpose of erecting a building
suitable for the preservation of their library, museum, &c, ; and of establishing
an English botanical garden ; as well as for preserving from further decay
the venerable remains of the Abbey, which was rapidly disappearing ; and the
lover of the picturesque and beautiful in architecture is indebted to this
society for rescuing that interesting monument of the piety, taste, and skill
of past ages, from the list of architectural beauties by which York was once
adorned, and of the existence of which no trace is now to be found, except in
the tablets of the artist, or in tiie records of the topographical historian.
614 TOPOORAPUT OP YORK.
Lord Grantham (now Earl de Grey), whose flBunilj had long held the whole
of the manor, or ancient close of the Abbey, under the Crown, veiy willingly
consented to relinquish the portion which the society wished to possess.
A subscription of £7fiOO., to defray the cost of a suitable building, having
been previously raised, the first stone was laid by the Archbishop of York, on
the S4th of October, 1827, and on the 2nd of February, 1830, the whole
suite of apartments was opened. This BuUding, commonly called the 3ftf-
seum of the Yorkshire Philoiophical Society, is partly erected on the offices of
St. Mary's Abbey, and is one of the most chaste and elegant structures in
the county of York. The facade has a western aspect towards the river, and
a projecting portico of four fluted Grecian-Doric columns, resting upon a
basement of three steps, and supporting the proper entablature, with mutules
and triglyphs, and a pediment. The entablature is continued along the
entire front, having attached antae at the angles. In the portions unoccupied
by the portico are three lintelled windows. The whole exterior is 200 feet
in length, and of Hackness stone, and has an air of imposing grandeur ; and
the interior is in equal taste. The Hall is 20 feet by 18 feet, with a ceiling
of bold panel work, and a floor of Scagliola plaster, in imitation of porphyry.
On one side of the hall is the Library, which is 81 feet by 18, and contains
the books, maps, drawings, &c., of the society; on the other side is the
Council Boom; and the staircases leading to two rooms above, which are
filled with a variety of objects of interest. In the centre is the entrance to
the Theatre, or Lecture Boom, which measures 44 feet by 85. This room is
square, and is ornamented by six elegant Corinthian columns, which support
a ceiling richly panelled. The light is derived from windows of ground glass
inserted in the centre panels, and by a simple contrivance, whenever it is
desirable, shutters can be drawn over them, so as to render the theatre com-
pletely dark. The seats of the audience descend to the lecturer's table. The
room on the right is the mineral museum, that on the left the geological col-
lection, which is one of the best in the kingdom. The centre apartment
contains a series of ornithological and zoological specimens, and some others.
Amongst the varied contents of the several rooms of this building may be
noticed the following : —
In the Entrance Hall, — ^A Roman tablet representing the sacrifice and mysteries of
Mithras, found in 1747, in dif^ging for a cellar in a hoose in Micklegate ; a cast of one
of the great obelisks at Kamak, the eastern part of Thebes, erected by Amense, sister of
Thothmes II., in the name of her husband Amenenthituot ; a cast of a figare of an
Assyrian King, sculptured on a rock, near Beyrout; some Egyptian sculpture, and the
ancient mortar formerly belonging to the infirmary of St. Mary's Abbey, York.
In the Theatre, three pieces of ancient tapestry, representing maps of several of the
midland counties, executed in 1588 ; a stem of a large tree fern, from Van Dieman's
TOPOGRAPHY OF TORK. 615
Land; and specimens of Indian producte. In the Room on the Right, specimens of the
higher departments of zoology, classed according to the system of Cuvier ; also a col-
lection of British and other shells, skeletons of British birds, and specimens of Foreign
fish. In the Large Centre Room, specimens of reptiles, fishes, and British and Foreign
birds. The collection of British birds is extensive, and some of the Foreign specimens
are rare and valuable. The Geological Room contains a most extensive and valuable
collection of Creological specimens — about 16,000 in number — systematically arranged
according to the strata to which they belong. The collection in this room includes
many specimens of minerals and fossil organic remains, from the different strata in
Yorkshire. In the First Upper Room is a large collection of specimens of ornitho-
logical osteology ; a skeleton of the Irish elk, and also that of a young whale which was
cast upon the Yorkshire coast a few years since. The Second Upper Room contains
specimens of British birds, presented by William Budston Read, Esq. in 1846.
In the Council Room is a collection of coins, consisting chiefly of Roman denarii, con-
sular and imperial ; of Roman brass of three sizes ; several Grecian coins, and a few
Roman durei ; several rare and interesting examples of British and Saxon coins ; and
English coins in gold, silver, and copper, of all denominations. Also a series of about
4,CX)0 Northumbria stycas, found in St. Leonard's Place, York, in 1842 ; and about 2,000
of a hoard, which was discovered in 1847 near Bolton Percy.
The building, in the grounds near the river, called the Hoipitium, contains an ex-
tremely interesting collection of antiquities belonging to the Roman, Anglo-Saxon,
Anglo-Norman, and Mediaeval periods, most of which have been found in York, or its
neighbourhood. Amongst the collection in the Lower Room of this building (which is
entirely of ancient sculpture) are nearly the whole of the Roman remains mentioned
at pages 203 to 311 . Many interesting fragments of the Abbey of St. Mary ; and a tablet
which had been built into the wall of the house which till lately stood at the comer of
St. Savionrgate and Colliergate, bearing an inscription. (See page 358.)
The antiquities deposited in the Upper Room of the Hospitium are of a very miscel-
laneous character. The room is fitted up with glass cases, &c., and the collection is
interesting. We may particularly notice an Egyptian Mummy, and several Roman
remains of humanity embedded in lime, and now in glass cases. A British canoe dug
from the bed of the river Calder, at Stanley Ferry, near Wakefield, in 1838. A British
cinerary urn, found in the centre of a barrow at Bishop Burton, near Beverley ; a smaller
British urn, found in excavating for the York and Scarborough Railroad, near Bootham ;
a cinerary urn, containing fragments of bones and ashes, found near the Mount, without .
Micklegate Bar ; and a great variety of Roman bricks and tiles, bearing the makers*
names or other inscriptions. A large collection of Samian ware, plain and embossed ;
and many fragments of funereal, drinking, and other vessels. Amongst the antiquities
which were discovered in various parts of the country, and are deposited here, are a
firagment of a large British urn, found at Acklam, near Malton ; an urn, a scull, and
bone pins from British tumuli, at the same place; spear and lance or arrow heads,
knives, scissors, and other instruments of iron, found in Anglo-Saxon barrows or tumuli
Aear Driffield; jaws and teeth, several sculls, the umbo of a shield, centre and four
pieces, beads of amber, glass, Ac, and several other articles found in barrows near
Driffield, and at Danes' Dale. Several Anglo-Saxon urns, from tumuli on the Yorkshire
Wolds; two small stone hammers found at Malton; and a collection of bronze celts,
some chisels and bronze gouges, found at Westow near Malton.
616 TOPOORAPHT or TOHK.
The Mtueum Gardeni now occupy about one-half of the ancient dose of
the Abbey of St Mary, with a small portion of the moat of the city wall,
and of the enclosure within which the Hospital of St. Leonard formerly stood.
The grounds are tastefully disposed, and ornamented with rare shrubs, trees,
and plantations, which, together with the picturesque ruins of the Abbey, the
cloister and chapel of St. Leonard's Hospital, and the Roman wall and Mul-
tangular Tower, render this delightful spot one of the principal attractions of
York. In front of the Museum is a small Observatory, erected in 1888. The
Hot House contains a very rare and valuable collection of Orchideoos and
other plants; together with an Aquarium for that elegant but monstrous
plant, the Water Lily (Victoria Eegia)^ which was presented to the Philoso-
phical Society by the Duke of Devonshire. The principal entrance to the
grounds is from Lendal, by a gateway formed by Doric columns, supporting
their proper entablature ; and a small porter's lodge attached.
Dr. Beckwith, of York, who died in December, 1848, left to this society
one of the most munificent bequests of modem times, for the promotion of
science. By his will he directed the sum of £10,000. to be paid to the
society for the better promotion of its objects. This intention has been
carried out, by the gardens being greatly extended, and other improvements
made conducive to the eujoyments and recreation of the subscribers.
The British Association for the Advancement of Science may be said in some
measure to be indebted for its formation to the Yorkshire Philosophical
Society. It had been for some time a subject of profound regret amongst
scientific men and philosophers in England, that there appeared to be no
interest taken in science and scientific pursuits in this country. *' Science
there was," says the talented Editor of the Hull Advertiser, to whose excellent
articles in that paper, on the occasion of the visit of the Association to Hull
in 1858, we are indebted for much information respecting this learned body,
" vital, and quick, and powerful, it is true ; but it wanted development. It
had no opening, but a casual one for its exhibition. It was struggling for
e.\istence, and in its struggle seemed to have no assistance from any one/'
At length Sir David Brewster, who had seen the working of a scientific con-
gress on the continent, conceived the design of forming such an one in
England. In 1880 he called public attention to the matter in a powerful
article in the Quarterly Review. Sir Humphrey Davy, Sir John Herschel,
and Mr. Babbage, soon became his coadjutors, and York was selected as the
place where they should launch their undertaking, for two reasons : — ^first,
because it was considered as most central and convenient ; and secondly, it
possessed a very active and influential Philosophical Society. The secretary
TOPOGKAPHY OF YORK. 617
of that society was Professor Phillips (the present deputy Reader in Geology
in the University of Oxford), and to him, on the Sdrd of January, 1831, Sir
David Brewster proposed that the society, which he represented, should take
the initiative in the formation of a body, intended to be designated the British
Association for the Promotion of Science. The objects of this association he
proposed should be " to make the cultivators of science acquainted with each
other — ^to stimulate one another to new exertions — ^to bring the objects of
science before the public eye— and to take measures for advancing its in-
terests, and accelerating its progress."
The suggestion of Sir David Brewster was soon acted upon, and Pro-
fessor Phillips, in conjunction with the committee of the society to which
he belonged, took such steps as eventuated in the first meeting of the British
Association being held in York. Not less than dOO of the most eminent
scientific men in the kingdom attended that meeting ; and the manner in
which all exerted themselves to promote the objects of the Association, showed
at once that there was no lack of interest felt in its future prosperity.
Since then the Association has held its annual meetings in many of the
principal towns in the three kingdoms, all of which were eminently suc-
cessful; and in every town it has left behind it marks of its civilizing
and beneficial influence. Its funds are devoted to a considerable extent to
promoting investigations in all branches of science ; and upwards of JS15,000.
have been expended by the Association in this manner — ** not frittered away,"
says the Editor of the Htdl Advertiser, " in useless theories, but, on the con-
trary, spent in investigations, which have, in their results, been of lasting
benefit to mankind. Indeed it would be difficult to say," continues the same
writer, "what class of the community has not derived benefits from its
workings. It has not confined its attention to any one particular object, but,
with a general benevolence of purpose, has directed the light of those master
intellects, which it numbers in its ranks, upon every thing which could by
possibility advance us either in knowledge, or power, or influence. And so
it has gone on growing by its own exertions, and gradually, yet efiectually,
fordng itself upon the attention of the world, until it has now overcome all
opposition, and has come to be regarded among the most honoured and
influential institutions of our land."
Yorkshire Union of Mecfumies* Institutes, — ^Incalculable are the advantages
which must inevitably flow from these truly excellent institutions. By means
of them the arcana of learning are thrown open to all classes of the commu-
nity, and we are happy to find that this great blessing seems to be duly
appreciated by the inhabitants of Yorkshire. There is not a market town in
4 K
618 TOPOOIUPHT OF TOBK.
the county that has not one of these admiiable institations ; and doubtless
the time is not fiftr distant when they will be introduced into most of the
populous villages, as they have been already into some. Yorkshire contains
but a twdfth of the population of the United Kingdom, while it possesses more
than a sixth of the educational institutes, and nearly a sixth of the total
members of these institutes. Indeed it would be difficult to point out any
county in Great Britain where they are so numerous, in proportion to the
population, as in Yorkshire. But a generation ago Mechanics* Institutes
did not exist Even so late as fifteen years ago they were very few and
scarcely known, now this county alone has certainly more than 160 of them.
The original oljjects of Mechanics* Institutions — the people*s colleges— was
to supply to the working classes inducements to mental cultivation after the
hours of physical labour, and to give them the means of it ; but it is to be
regretted that they have not been generally found more useful to that class.
They are more frequented by the middle classes, or by those immediately
above the labouring population ; and the cause of this departure from the
original principle, is perhaps to be found in the system of teaching which is
usually pursued — a system calculated for those who have been already toler-
ably well educated, and not for those who come from manual labour to learn.
This defect may be remedied by applying the system of instruction by classes,
not only to the teaching of foreign languages, singing, design, &c., but to
the elementary teachings which would be foimd necessary in the great
majority of the cases for which the institution was first established ; and this
need not interfere in the least with the system of lectures for the middle or
more educated classes in the institute, if it was found to be acceptable to them.
The Yorkshire Union was founded in 1838, and was confined to the West
Riding until April, 1841, when the fourth annual meeting was held in the old
building of the Institute of York, at which it was resolved that the Union be
extended to the whole county. According to the Report issued in 1841, only
ten institutions, including an aggregate of 1,560 members, were connected
with the Union ; but from the report read at the eighteenth annual meeting of
the delegates of the Union, held at York, on the dlst May, 1855, we learn that
there are 133 institutions associated, embracing upwards of 20,000 members,
whose subscriptions annually amount to nearly £11,000. The number of
volumes in their libraries is estimated at 250,000. The Union indades
amongst its objects the exchange and circulation of lectures and papers among
the associated institutes, and all institutions are admissible to it. The afiairs
of the Union are managed by a Central Committee, the expenses • of which
are borne by the associated institutes in the manner following : — ^Institut^
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 619
having less than 70 members subscribe 5s. per anu.» those having more tlian
70 and less than 150, pay 10s. per ann., and those having 150 members or
upwards, 20s. per ann. Every year several hundred lectures are delivered,
the majority of which are gratuitous. York and several other towns continue
to obtain excellent lists of lectures, provided almost entirely from local talent,
and these lectures are in most cases not imfit to compare with professional
lectures, and they attract quite as large an attendance ; besides they spare
the funds of the institutes, which are thus available for other important de-
partments. '' The great value of lectures," says the Report for 1854, " consists
in the stimulus they give to desire and seek information, rather than in the
amount of actual information conveyed. The hearer may carry away but few
fiiots, but his field of mental vision is enlarged, his reasoning power is
developed, and he has recourse to books to supply his desire for information."
An important department of the Union is the Itinerating Village Library.
In order to supply the great deficiency which exists in respect to education,
and to diffuse light and knowledge, with all their beautiful and beneficent
influences and results, through the rural districts of this great county, the
Central Committee of the Union have opened a depot of books in Leeds, and
organized a plan of operations, whereby those books may be made available
to the humblest persons at a merely nominal cost. It is applicable to all
localities, and must prove beneficial to all who are in earnest after self-
improvement. Wherever twenty-five persons can be found who are willing
to pay one penny per week for the use of the books, 50 volumes are sent free
of carriage, and these books are replaced eveiy six months by 50 others ; and
for every twenty-five additional subscribers 50 additional volumes are sent.
The advantage of the periodical transfer of the books^from one station to
another must appear obvious to all, and therefore needs no comment. There
are now no less than thirty-six of these Itinerating Libraries connected with
the Union. The attention of her Majesty's consort, his Royal Highness
Prince Albert, has lately been called to the plan of this excellent institution,
and as a mark of his approbation, he has presented to the Union the hand-
some donation of 211 volumes of excellent works, all beautifully bound, and
on the inside of the cover of each volume is a label with this inscription : —
** Presented to the Yorkshire Union of Mechanics* Institutes, by his Royal
Highness Prince Albert."
The Castle Howard United VUlagei Itinerating Library, was commenced on
the 1st of January, 1853, at the suggestion of the princely owner of Castle
Howard, and its books are now circulated in thirteen villages round that
splendid mansion, besides four sections in the town of Malton.^^The Earl of
630 TOPOORAPHY OF YOBK.
Carlisle is building reading and news rooms in several of the yillages of the
Castle Howard estate. It is in connection with the Union of Mechanics*
Institutes, but is quite independent of the Union Library. The Unicm of
Institutes, and the Libraries, are supported in part by the donations of the
friends of education in all parts of the county. The president of the Central
Committee is Edward Baines, Esq., and the agent and lecturer is Mr. George
S. Phillips. The president of the committee of the Castle Howard Village
Libraries is the Rev. Thomas Myers, Vicar of Sheriff Hutton, and the
lecturer is Mr. Ishmael Fish.
York Institute of Popular Science and Literature^ St. Saviouigate. — ^This
institution was established in 1897, for the instruction of its members in the
principles of the useful and ornamental arts, and in the various other depart-
ments of useful knowledge. Its original name was ** The York Mechanics'
Institute," and it is still essentially the same in machinery and design as at
first. The neat and commodious building, in which the institute is held, was
erected by the society, and opened in 1846, with a bazaar and exhibition of
paintings, and other works of art. It consists of a lecture hall, news and
reading room, class rooms, and library. During the winter lectures are de-
livered weekly, on experimental philosophy, practical mechanics, astronomy,
chemistiy, natural histoiy, Hterature, &c.; and classes are formed, under
competent paid teachers, for instruction in writing, arithmetic, geometry,
grammar, composition, and drawing, all of which are open to the members
gratuitously. There is also a class for instruction in French, and a chess
club, for which an extra fee is required. The members of this institute are
divided into three classes, who respectively pay 30s., 10s., and 68., jier ann.;
the third class being exclusively for youths under 18 years age. Ladies' sub-
scriptions are 10s. According to the last annual Report of the society the
total number of members was 490 ; the income of the past year had been
£370., and the expenditure, £330. The reading room is open daily, and the
library every evening, Sundays excepted. The lecture room will accommo-
date about 400 persons ; the news room is well supphed with the leading
periodicals and newspapers; and the Hbrary contains up to 5,000 vc^ames.
A portrait of Dr. Birbeck, the founder of Mechanics* Institutes, whidi had
for some years been suspended in the reading room, and which had been
valued at thirty guineas, has lately become the property of the institution, on
very advantageous terms. The institute is in union with the Society of Arts,
London, and at the annual conference of that society, held in London on the
4th of July, 1854, this institute was represented by the Lord Mayor (Geoige
Leeman, Esq.) The York Institute is also associated with the Yorkshire
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 631
Union of Mechanics' Institutes. Sir George Cayley, Bart., is the president
of the York Institute, and amongst the vice-presidents is the Rev. C. Well-
heloved, a most zealous promoter of its foundation, and one of its most constant
and generous benefactors.
Yorkshire Architectural Society, — This association was instituted in 1841,
to promote the studj of ecclesiastical architecture, antiquities, and design, the
restoration of mutilated architectural remains, and of churches, or parts of
churches, within the county of York, which may have been desecrated ; and
to improve, as far as it may be within its province, the character of ecclesias-
tioal edifices to be erected in future. The patrons of the society are the
Archbishop of Y'ork and the Bishop of Bipon ; its presidents are the Earls of
Carlisle and Zetland; and amongst the vice-presidents are the Duke of
Northumbedand, Earls de Grey, EfQngham, Dartmouth, and Mexborough ;
Lords Hotham, Feversham, Downe, and WhamclifiTe ; Sir Henry Boynton,
Sir J. H. Lowther, Sir T. Digby Legard, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, the Rev.
Sir George Burrard, and the Archdeacons of the diocese. Hon. secretaries.
Rev. J. Sharp and Mr. W. H. Dykes, architect. The society, which is now
composed of about 800 members, who pay an annual subscription of 10s.
each, holds three public meetings in each year— ^ne at York, and two in
other parts of the county. The Muaeimi of the Society, which is in the
Minster Yard, York, contains a good collection of casts, rubbings of brasses,
&c. ; and there is in connection with it a small library of valuable works
on architecture.
Yorkshire Naturalists' Club. — ^Established in 1849, for the purpose of
bringing the Naturalists of the county into friendly and more frequent com-
munication with one another, and for collecting facts, canying on researches,
&c., bearing upon the natural history of Yorkshire ; and a leading object of
the club is to provide a fund, to be spent in collecting the natural productions
of the county, and to distribute the specimens, thus obtained, among the
public Museums of the county, the Museum of the Philosophical Society at
York to take precedence in this distribution. Meetings of the club are held
monthly, for the election of members, the reading and discussion of papers,
exhibition of specimens, &c. A library of standard works on different
branches of natural history, is being formed for the use of the members.
The present number of members is about 190 ; and the amount of subscrip-
tion is five shillings per annum. When the number of members is raised
to 800, it is calculated that, after the payment of the ordinary incidental ex-
penses, there will be £50. per annum, applicable to the scientific objects for
623 TOPOORAPHT OF YORK.
which the club was instituted. Lord Londesborough is president of the club,
and Mr. North, secretary.
Yorkshire Antiquarian Club. — ^This association was founded in June, 1849,
by a few gentlemen, interested in antiquarian research, for promoting, first,
the accurate knowledge, and the careful preservation of the antiquities of the
county of York ; secondly, to make researches by the opening of, and esca-
Tations into, barrows and other earth- works ; and to watch the progress of
public works, such as railways, sewers, foundations of buildings, &c. An
important feature of the club, is, that it consists of a society of working arch-
SDologists, possessing no collection of their own, and one of the fundamental
rules states, " that all the specimens given to, or discovered by the dub, be
deposited in the Museum of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society." By faith-
fully adhering to this plan of proceeding, it has been in their power to add
numerous interesting specimens to that fine collection; amongst them a
valuable and rare collection of bronze, bones, and urns, which are now placed
in separate cases in the Hospitium. Expeditions have been made by the
members of the club, and tumuli examined at Acklam, Driffield, Skipwith,
Huggato, Thixendale, Arras, &c., and much curious and important informa-
tion have been obtained respecting the ancient inhabitants of that district of
Yorkshire. Drawings of the localities and objects found, especially the vases,
with plans of any peculiar distribution of tumuli, are retained in the portfolio
of the club. The meetings of the club are held every two months, in Arch-
bishop Holgate*8 School Boom ; and its afiGurs are conducted by a president,
two vice-presidents, a committee of twelve gentlemen, a treasurer, and secre-
tary. The present number of members of the club is about eighty ; and the
amount of annual subscription is very small. The Rev. Charles WeUbebved
is the president, and William Proctor, Esq., the hononuy secretary.
Lecture HaU, — This spacious apartment was erected in 1845, at a cost
of about £3,500., by the York Total Abstinence Society, and is situated be-
hind a Temperance Inn, in Goodramgate. It is galleried round three sides,
and will accommodate about 1,000 persons. Temperance and other public
meetings are held in it.
LiBRABiES. — The York Subscription Library was instituted in 1794, by a
few intelligent and spirited individuals, viz., Sir William Strickland, S. W.
Nicholl, Esq., Rev, C. Wellbeloved, Anthony Thorpe, Esq., and others.
These gentlemen formed themselves into a society, for the purpose of pur-
chasing the pamphlets, and other light literary productions of the day. They
were then deposited at the house of a member of the society, and the coUec*
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 623
tion was at certain periods sold, and more modem productions purchased from
the general fund thus augmented. The number of members increasing, a
plan was suggested of erecting an edifice by subscription shares, distinct from
the book society. Accordingly some old houses were purchased in St Helen's
Square, at the comer of Lendal, and upon their site a commodious building
was erected in 1613. Here the library continued until 1886, when it was
removed to the fine and spacious rooms now occupied by it, in No. 1, St.
Leonard's Place. The site of the old building is now occupied by the hand-
some edifice, containing the offices of the Yorkshire Insurance Company.
The library — which now occupies five rooms, fitted up with cases, the
largest room (a very fine one) having a gallery around it— consists of about
30,000 volumes, among which are many valuable works, and the best current
literature of the day ; besides the Transactions of the Philosophical, ArchsBO-
logical, Geological, and other scientific societies, which are regularly pur-
chased as soon as published; Hansard's Parliamentary Debates, and the
Statutes at laiige. The Public Becord Boom, which contains a large collection
of the Records of the nation, presented by the Government, is open to all
persons in the county, who may have occasion to consult them. The Beading
Boom is well supplied with the principal magazines and reviews — ^about £60.
a year being devoted to their purchase — ^but no newspapers are admitted.
Indeed this library, considering its extent, is extremely valuable. The society
now consists of about 360 members; the annual subscription is £1. 6s., but
each subscriber must be the holder of a ticket, which has to be purchased.
The library, Ac, is open daily, Sundays excepted. Mr. Jonathan Swinbank
is the librarian.
The Select Subscription Library, in Blake Street, was established in 1818,
for the purpose of supplying good reading, at a moderate price, to those whose
circumstances precluded their subscribing to the more expensive libraries.
It consists of nearly 2,000 volumes, well selected. The terms of subscription
are an entrance fee of one guinea, and 10s. a year; such subscription consti-
tuting a proprietorship. Each proprietor has the privilege of recommending
persons in humbler circumstances as gratuitous readers. Mrs. Ann Ellison,
librarian.
The Cathedral lAbrary, and the Medical JJhraries, are noticed in other
parts of this history.
NEWSPAPERS. — There are four Newspapers published in York eveiy
Saturday : —
The York Herald (with which the " York Courant," established in 1720,
is now incorporated) was first issued on the 2nd of January, 1790. This
634 TOPOORAPHY OF YORK.
paper is liberal in politics, and has a circulation of about 5,000 weddj, ex-
tending oyer the counties of York, Lincoln, Lancaster, and the other northern
counties. The proprietors are Mr. William Hargroye, and his two sons,
Alfred Ely Hargroye and William Wallace Hargroye.
The Yorkshireman, established in 1884, is a joint stock property, and has
a pretty fair circulation. Its politics are liberal.
The Yorkshire Gazette is the property of a company of resident proprietors.
It was established on the 34th of April, 1819, and the *' York Ghronicle,*'
established in 1773, was amalgamated with it some years ago. The Gazette
adyocates conseryatiye principles. Mr. James Lancelot Foster, publisher.
The Farmers' Friend and Freeman's Journal, established in January, 1850,
is more of an adyertising sheet than a newspaper. About 500 oojHes of it
are distributed gratis eyery week. Mr. Henry Fairbum is the publisher
and sole proprietor.
There are two subscription News Booms in the city, one at the Boyal
Hotel and the other in Blake Street
RAILWAYS. — ^The formation of railways is closely connected with the
interests of York, and the ancient city might haye lost much of its impor-
tance but for the introduction of these iron highways. The plain of York
afforded great natural facilities for the construction of railways, whilst the
geological features of the neighbourhood of Leeds presented as formidable
obstacles ; and it is owing, in a great measure, to this that York is now the
centre of a system of railways radiating in eyery direction.
The Yorii and North Midland Railway Company was formed for the making
and maintenance of a railway &om York to Normanton, near Wakefield, a
distance of twenty-four miles. On the 80th of May, 1839, it was opened to
the Milford Junction, where it joins the Leeds and Selby line ; and in May,
1840, it was opened to Normanton, where it unites with the Midland Rail-
way, and forms a direct line to London. The York and North Midland is
the connecting link between the two extremities of the chain of railways on
the eastern side of the island, commencing at Doyer and extending to Edin-
burgh. The York and North Midland has seyeral branch railways in con-
nexion with the main line, yiz. : — ^from York to the fashionable coast town of
Scarborough (opened in 1846), through Malton, joining the Whitby and
Pickering line at the latter place; the branch to Market Weigfaton; and
that ^m Church Fenton to Harrogate.
The line to Knaresborough was opened in 1846, by the East and West
Yorkshire Railway Company, but in 1853 it was purchased by the York and
North Midland Company.
TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK. 635
The great North of England Railway between York and Darlington, was
opened on the Slst of March, 1841. This line is carried over the Oose at
Poppleton, by a viaduct 300 feet long. In 1850 the company to whom this
line belonged amalgamated with the Darlington and Newcastle, and the
Newcastle and Berwick, Railway Companies, and the whole line was thence-
forward called the York, NewewUe, and Berwick Bailway. The distance from
York to Bermck is 150 miles. This line is celebrated for the High Level
Bridge across the Tyne at Newcastle, a work of immense magnitude, and by
far the lai^est of the kind in the kingdom.
In June, 1854, the York and North Midland, the York, Newcastle, and
Berwick, and the Leeds Northern lines, were all amalgamated by Act of
Parliament, and became the property of one body, under the name of the
North Eastern Bailway Company. The length of the three united lines and
their branches is 68d miles.
The Great Northern EaUway, which joins the York and North Midland
line near Burton Salmon, was opened in 1850. This line affords another
and a much shorter means of communication with London. By means of
these lines, there is now a complete railway communication from east to west,
from Hull to Liverpool ; and from south to north, there is a direct line from
London to Edinburgh and Glasgow through York. It is now possible to
accomplish the journey from York to London and back in less than twenty
hours ! allowing an hour for the transaction of business.
Bailway Station, — ^At the opening of the York and North Midland Railway,
in 1830, a temporary station was constructed without the walls of the city,
and it so continued until the beginning of 1841, when the present elegant
and commodious structure was opened. Since its erection, it has been greatly
enlarged, and it is now the chief station of the amalgamated companies,
as well as of the Great Northern Company. It is in the Italian style of
architecture, and consists of two ranges of buildings, connected at the east
end by a large and handsome hotel, erected in 1853. The principal front
of the Station is opposite Tanner Row, with a building corresponding to it,
frt>nting the dty walls ; and the whole area, including the Station, is covered
by a cast-iron roof, of ingenious and beautiful design..
After proceeding from the Station, the lines of railway pass under the city
walls, which are perforated by two large Tudor arches, each seventy feet
wide. Connected with the ra^way there are numerous large and convenient
woilEshops, engine sheds, foundries, Ac. Here are manufactured almost
entirely the engines, carriages, Ac, of the North Eastern Railway Company.
The number of persons employed in the station, workshops. Sec, is about
4 L
0^6 TOPOOBAPHT OF TOBK.
1,S00, who receive in wages £2,700. fortnightly, or £70,000. per annum.
The chief officers of the North Eastern Company are Mr. W. 0*Brien, secre-
tary ; Mr. T. E. Harrison, engineer-in-chief; and Mr. A. G. Sheriff, manager
of traffic. The erection of this Station has txansformed a remote and retired
part of the city into a scene of vivacity and commercial activity. During the
excavation of the ground necessary for the formation of the Station, as well
as for making the railway hetween the Station and Holdgate bridge, numer-
ous Roman remains were found, consisting principally of sepulchral remains;
and on the site of the Station were discovered portions of a Roman Bath, and
some tesselated pavements, the whole of which have been deposited in the
Museum of the city. The space between the Station and the city walls was
formerly called Friars* Gardens, and is supposed to have been the site of a
Dominican Friary. The men employed at the railway works have just
established a Library and Reading Room.
Gm Works. — ^The " York Gas Company " was incorporated by Act of Par-
liament in 18dd, and the streets of the city were first lighted with gas on the
ddnd of March, 1824. The works of this company were erected near Monk
Bridge. In 1836 another body, called the '* York Union Gas Company/'
was established, and they had their works near the Foss, in Hungate. Both
of these bodies amalgamated in 1844, under the style and title of the York
United Qas Light Company; and in 1847 the works of both were concen-
trated on the ground of the original company. The buildings are of red
brick ; there are two gasometers, which will contain 800,000 cubic feet of
gas ; the largest one is 80 feet in diameter, and rises 50 feet, and when it
was erected, in 1847, it was the largest in the county. At the same time
the works were considerably enlaiged and improved, and a new retort house
and chimney built This fine chimney, which is in the form of a Doric
column, is remarkable for its close resemblance in form, as weU as of its being
about the same general dimensions, as the celebrated Tnyan pillar at Rome.
In ancient times, before the introduction of oil and gas, part of the pro-
clamation, annually made by the Sheri£B9 in York, was as fbUows : — ^" Also
we command that no manner of man walk in the city, or in the suburbs, by
night, without light before him, i. e. from Fasche (Easter) to Michaelmas,
after ten of the clock; and firom Michaelmas to Pasche, after nine of the
dock." The houses of the nobility and gentry formerly had niches at their
doors, in which a large extinguisher was placed, which was used for the pur-
pose of extinguishing flambeaux, carried by servants at night before their
masters, as they went and returned from their nocturnal revels. One of the
remaining examples of these niches may be seen at the door of the large
TOPOGRAPHY OF YOBK. 6J^7
hoase at the end of Blake Street, near the Theatre, which was erected
hj Sir William Robinson, Bart. When Edward IV. was in York, one
hundred torches were lighted on the occasion, the inference being that the
citizens were at other times left to grope their way as best they could. In
the time of Charles n., the city was lighted by twenty-four large lanterns
placed at the comers of the streets.* The Act of 1838 required that the
newly formed company should light the city better and cheaper with gas than
could be done with oil.
York WatertDorks. — ^Lendal Tower, one of the ancient towers of defence for
the city, was let by the Goiporation to Richard Whistler, a London Mer-
chant, in 1677, for the purpose of erecting Waterworks in it ; but it was not
till the year 1683 that the works were completed. The lease of the tower
was granted for 500 years, at the annual rent of a Peppercorn, An engine,
worked by two horses, was then placed in it, and the water was raised from
the Ouse, and conTeyed through the city by means of wooden pipes. The
works were afterwards purchased by Colonel Thornton, who considerably im>
proved the whole, enlarged the building, introduced a steam engine, and
added bathing rooms to the tower. From this gentlemen the establishment
descended to his son, also a Colonel, from whom it was purchased in 1799,
by the late Waterworks Company, who raised the tower considerably, and
made other additions ; and who, in 1886, erected a new engine house near
the tower, to which the engine was then removed.
A new company was established in 1846, with a capital of £60,000., raised
in shares of £10. each ; and they purchased the old works at Lendal Tower,
for £38,000. ; and in 1849 removed them to Acomb Landing, on the opposite
bank of the Ouse, about two miles above the city. The new works were de-
signed by Mr. James Simpson, civil engineer, of London, and consist of two
subsiding reservoirs, and three filter beds, with two steam engines, each
capable of working to about sixty horse-power ; tanks, wells, conduits, pipes,
and other apparatus for raising the water from the river, performing the pro-
cess of filtration, and afterwards lifting the water to the high service reser-
voir on Severus Hill, for distribution, through metal pipes, over the city and
suburbs. This great reservoir, which is nearly a mile from the works, is
formed in the centre of that celebrated tumuli, which tradition points to as
the spot upon which the body of the Roman Emperor Severus had been
reduced to ashes.
Public Baths. — ^In the above account of the original Waterworks at
• Mr. B. Davies' Lectore at the York Institute.
J
6M TOPOOBAPHT OF YORK.
Lendal, we observe that Colonel Thornton added some bathing rooms to
them. These baths, which aie supplied with hot and cold water, still con-
tinue to be the property of the Waterworks Company.
The Stmnming Baths, in Marjgate, were the property of a Joint Stodc
Company, with a capital of igd,500., in i66. shares* but these hare been pur>
chased by the Council of the Philosophical Society, upon whose properly
they stand. The Bath Company was formed in 1886, and the baths were
opened in the following year. The large bath is IdO feet by 80. Warm and
shower baths have since been added.
Cavalry Barracks, — These barracks were built on the Fulford Road, about
one mile from the city, in 1700, at an expense of £27,000., and induding
the spacious yard, they occupy twelve acres of ground. The centre building
will accommodate three field officers, five captains, and nine subalterns, and
staff ; and the wings will quarter 240 ncm-commissioned officers and privates,
and horses for the entire force.
MiUtia Depot, Lowther Street, Groves. — ^This building was erected for the
stores of the 2nd West York Light Infantry Regiment of Militia, and con-
sists of a guard room, several store rooms, three cells, and houses for the
adjutant and quarter-master. Col. Smyth, M.P., is the commanding officer.
Bakks. — Messrs. Swann, Clough, d Co., Coney Street; draw on Sir R. C.
Glynn & Co., Lombard Street, London.
Yorkshire Banking Company, comer of High Ousegate and Parliament
Street ; draw on Messrs. Williams, Deacon, A Co., 20, Birchin Lane.
York City and County Bank, Parliament Street ; draw on Messrs. Bametts,
Hoare, & Co., 62, Lombard Street.
York Union Bank, High Ousegate ; draw on Messrs. Glynn & Co.» Lom-
bard Street The three latter banks belong to Joint Stock Companies.
Savings' Bank, comer of Blake Street. — This is a very neat building,
erected from a design of Messrs. Pritchett & Sons, of York, about twentj-five
years ago, at a cost of about d65,000. The upper story exhibits five fluted
pillars, and three square pillars, with Corinthian capitals, supporting a plain
frieze. The board room over the bank is exceedingly neat, and is lighted by
seven windows, five of which have circular heads. The ceiling, which is in
panels, is richly decorated, and the walls are ornamented with pilasters of
the Corinthian order. The use of this room is sometimes granted by Uie
directors for religious meetings, or meetings for charitable purposes.
From the general statement of this Savings* Bank, for the year ending
20th November, 1854, we learn that the sums received of depositors within
that year was ^£84,160. And at that date the amount of its deposits was
TOPO0RAFHT OF TOBK. 6d9
£214,d77., belonging to 6,830 individuals, 96 charitable societies, and 31
friendly societies. The afifiurs of the bank are managed by fiye trustees and
a committee of twenty-four gentlemen, the Lord Mayor for the time being
being president John Swann, £sq., is treasurer, and Mr. Thomas Riley,
secretary. Deposits of from Is. up to ^80. may be made in one year, and
the rate of annual interest allowed to depositors is three per cent.
York Petmy Bank, Office, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate. — ^The olgect of this
institution is to create and foster habits of regularity and frug^ economy, by
affording an opportunity for the deposit of the smallest sums of money pay-
able when required. The office is open twice a week, for receiving deposits
of any sums of money of not less than one penny, or more than two shillings
each. Interest, at the rate of iSd. lOs. per cent per ann., is allowed on every
10s. deposited before December 1st and June 1st in each year, such sum
remaining in the bank for six months after the said dates. The weekly
number of depositors is about 600, and the weekly sums deposited from
JBd6. to iSdO.
York Loan Society, Blake Street. — Loans of from 58. to iS15. are granted
by this Society, to the labouring and other persons of approved character, the
borrowers giving a householder as security for the repayment thereof, by
weekly instalments of one shilling in the pound. No interest is required of
the borrower beyond a charge of threepence in the pound.
CUy Police StatUmy St Sampson's Square. — The police force of the city
consists of thirty men. Chief Constable, Mr. Robert Chalk.
Hotek. — ^There are several very excellent family hotels and commercial
inns in York. One of these frtmous hostelries, the G^rge, in Coney Street
(which has just ceased to be an inn), is remarkable for its antiquity, and has
been known to exist for 350 years as a hotel. In this house, which has just
been divided and sold, is a very antique apartment, with carved wainscot-
tings, and a ceiling richly decorated in the style that prevailed during the
earlier part of the 17th century. But the most remarkable decoration in the
room is a singularly interesting group of five heraldic achievements, in painted
glass, executed in the reign of Charles 11., and consisting of the armorial
beatings of that Sovereign, the Earl of Strafford, Earl of Northumberland,
&c. Mr. Davies, in his lecture at the York Institute, on the antiquities of
York, observed that if he might conjecture how this memorial of the ** Merry
Monarch " had got there, he would say that it was possible, and even highly
probable, that he and his gay companions had frequently partaken of the
good eheer of " mine host " of the Qeorge, and had in return pre96nted him
with this mark of their patronage.
680 TOPOORAPHT OF YOBK.
York Po&r Law Union. — This Union, which was declared on the 15th of
Jolj, 1887, nnder the proYisions of the Act passed in 1834, comprises a total
area of 108 square miles, and comprehends 80 parishes and places, whereof
89 are in the city, 7 in the West Riding (the Ainsty), 16 in the East Riding,
and 36 in the North Riding of Yorkshire.
The Union Workhome is a large pile of hrick building, lately erected near
Ghroves* Terrace, on the Huntingdon Road. It formerly occupied the house
in Marygate, now used as the Ragged School and Model Lodging House.
The building will accommodate about 850 inmates ; the average number in
the house during the past year is about 165, and the average cost of each per
week, about 2s. 7id. The master and matron of the workhouse are Mr. and
Mrs. Wilsott, and there are eight medital officers connected with the Union.
PenUenHaty^ BishophilL — ^From the Report for the year ending December
81st, 1854, we learn that The York Penitentiary Society has completed its
thirty-'third year, and The Befuge its tenth. This institution is for the
reformation of females, who have unhappily strayed from the paths of virtue ;
and many instances are known of characters reclaimed through its instru-
mentality. In 1848 the fands of this charity were increased by the liberal
bequest of £5,000., made by Dr. Beckwith, who formerly resided in the house
now occupied as the Refuge of the Society.
City Mission. — The York City Mission was instituted in 1848, for the dif-
fusion of moral and religious instruction among the poorer classes of society,
by means of domiciliary visitation ; as well as to recommend sanitary im-
provements in the dwellings of the poor. To e£fect these objects, missionaries
of approved character and qualification, who give themselves entirely to the
work, are employed and paid by the institution ; and their duties are to visit
from house to house in their respective districts, read the scriptures to the
inmates, engage them in religious conversations, without referring to deno-
minational distinctions, urge those who are living in the neglect of religion
to observe the sabbath, and to attend public worship, and to see that all per-
sons possess the scriptures. The general business of the society is conducted
by a committee, consisting of an equal number of members of the Establbhed
Church, and of Dissenters. The City Mission is supported by donations
and subscriptions.
There are also in York branches of the various Missionary, Religious Tract,
and Bible Societies, several benevolent associations for administering to the
spiritual and temporal wants of the poor and needy. Amongst them are tihe
York Emanuel, the Charitable Society, the Benevolent Society, the Female
Friendly Society, the Lying-in Charity, and the Society for the Prevention
of Vice and Profaneness.
TOPOGIUPHT OF YORK. 631
Model Lodging House, Marygate. — ^This establishment, which occupies
part of the old Poor Law Union Workhouse, in Marygate, was opened in
1850) by an association of philanthropic individuals. There is accommo-
dation for nearly fifty lodgers, each of whom are supplied with a separate
bed, together with the use of the day room (which is supplied with bibles and
suitable periodicals), kitchen, cooking utensils, soap, salt, gas light, &c., at
the low charge of 3d. per night, or Is. 6d. a week. There are several sleeping
rooms, all of them fitted up with beds, separated by partitions. The beds
are of sea weed, and the house, which is remarkable for its cleanliness and
comfort, must be a great boon to the poor and needy.
Cemetery. — The York Public Cemetery, on the Fulford Bead, is the pro-
perty of a Joint Stock Company, fonved in 1830, with a capital of i66,000.,
in dSlO. shares, and was established in consequence of the crowded state of
the church yards in York. The ground, which consists of eight acres, was
first opened in September, 1887 ; and that all denominations may bury their
dead according to their own form, half the land is consecrated for the use of
the Established Church, and the other half is appropriated to Dissenters.
The ministers of each denomination conduct their own funeral services,
and the mortuary chapel is so situated, that the line separating the two
divisions of the Cemetery runs through the centre of the building ; conse-
quently one half of the chapel is used by members of the Established Church,
and the other half by the Dissenters.
The ground is very tastefully laid down, and planted with flowers, shrubs,
and forest trees ; and the chapel, lodge, and entrance gates are very neat.
The total cost of the land and buildings is JS7,719. The Chapel is an
oblong building, of cut stone, finom Roche Abbey, and is an interesting imita-
tion of Grecian architecture. The entrance is in the centre of the north
side, beneath a pediment supported by four fluted pillars, and two large
pilasters. Both ends of the building exhibit a frieze, supported by two
fluted half pillars. The south side is plain. The interior is neat, and each
end is fitted up with a small pulpit, seats, &c.
That the poor as well as the rich may have the advantage of the cemetery,
there is a rule, that for persons dying in housQS or tenements under the
annual value of £6. or £10. rack rent, the charge for a single interment shall
be much less than to other persons. It is also laid down as an invariable
rule, that no grave, whether public or private, when filled, shall again be
opened, so that no human remains may be dug up or disturbed. As the
church yards of York have been recently closed (See page 369) it is probable
that this Cemetery will soon be extended beyond its present limits. Visitors
have free access to walk in the grounds, except on Sundays.
632 TOPOORAPHT OF YORK.
Cholera Burial Qraumd, — As we have seen at page 868, that terrible
^demicy the Asiatic Cholera, first manifested itself in York in the m<«th
<d June, 1882 ; and on that oocasioa this piece of gronnd, which is sitnated
just without the city walls, between the Railway and North Street Postern,
was set apart for the interment of those who died of that malady. The
second visitation of Cholera, in 1849, being much less serere than the i«e-
vions one, those who died of it were buried in the difEierent graye-yaids
indiscriminately ; the Cholera bnrial-giound not being opened at all.
Reobeativb AinisEiiENTs. — Baee$. — ^A large flat piece of pasture land,
about a mile south of the city, called Knavemnire,* the property of the firee-
men of Micklagate ward, is used as a Race Count, This course is one of the
finest in the kingdom, and York races occupy a place in the first rank upon
the English tur£ The sport of horse racing, though undoubtedly practised
in this country at the time of the Roman invasion, does not appear to haye
made much progress till the accession of James I., who introduced it from
Scotland, where it came into vogue firom the spirit and swiftness of the
Spanish horses, which had been thrown ashore on the coast of Galloway,
when the vessels of the Armada woe wrecked. In the reign of Heniy VJJJL.
a bell, adorned with flowers, had been ** given to him who should run the
best and farthest on horseback on Shrove Tuesday," at Chester, Stamford,
and elsewhero.
Camden, in his Britannia, published in 1590, informs us that horse racing
was practised on the Forest of Gsltres, on the east side of the city of York ;
the prize for the winning horse being a small golden or silver bell, which was
always attached to its head-gear, and the animal was then led about in
triumph ; whence arose the proverb, for success of any kind, " bearing away
the bell," or " to bear the bell.*' But racing as a system may be said to date
from the reign of James I. This monaroh was extremely fond of the sport,
and his favourite courses were at Croydon and Enfield Chase. Chaiies I.
followed his example by establishing races in Hyde Park and at Newmaiket*
where James I. had already built a hunting seat. Races were disoontinoed
during the Protectorate, but Cromwell was by no means inattentive to the
breeding of good horses. The " Merry Monaroh " not only encouraged racing
by numerous royal plates, but purohased mares and sires (principally Baibs
and Turks) in the Levant, and also improved the breed by horses brought
over from Tangiers, as part of the dowry of his Queen, Catherine of Braganza.
• KnaiO€, the Anglo-Saxon term fer a man of low condition — and this conmum it
oalled Knavesmixe, fiiom being the swampy pasture of the poor hoaseholderB' cattle.
TOPOGRAPHY OF TOBK. 638
Mr. Drake says, " Clifton Belds have not been enclosed a century ; and were
formerly open enough to have been the Campus Martins to Eboracum ;" and
in another place he speaks more confidently to there having been so. In
1700 there was a regular race meeting on Clifton Ings, and in 1714 it had
become so popular that there were 156 carriages upon the course in one day.
During the great frost in 1607, when the river Ouse was frozen over so hard
that carts and carriages passed over it in safety, Drake tells us that a horse
race was run upon it, firom the tower at Marygate end, through the great
arch of Ouse Bridge, to the crane at Skeldergate Postern. In the year 1709
the citizens made a collection, with which they purchased five plates, which
were run for over Enavesmire, and from that period to the present, the
annual meetings have been supported with much spirit Since the time of
Charies n., this great national sport has been sanctioned and encouraged by
the monarchs of England, who grant " Plates " or " Cups ** annually to be
run for on many race courses in the kingdom. Though these royal gifts are
still frequentiy called plates or cups, yet, with the exception of the Vase,
which is run for at Ascot (and which is still a piece of plate), they consist of
100 guineas, and hence are sometimes called the King's or Queen's Guineas,
or the King's or Queen's Hundred. In 1713, four years after the establish-
ment of permanent races at York, the King's gold cup was procured, and has
ever since been run for at the August meeting. There is another royal plate
of 100 gpiineas, now given for mares, to be run for here and at Richmond
alternately. In 1754 the Chrand Stand was built by subscription. The
building is of red brick, with circular-headed windows in the upper story ;
the whole finished with a balustrade projection, the front of which is up to
100 feet in length, and supported by a rustic arcade of 15 feet high, from
which may be enjoyed a fine view of the races and surrounding scenery.
Near the "Winning Post" is the building called the Bound Hotue, which
was erected for the convenience of the Stewards or officials. It is a stone
rotunda, with attached Doric columns, supporting their proper entablature,
and surmounted by a dome. Extensive improvements have reoentiy been .
effected in the neighbourhood of the goal — a neat Stand has been erected for
the use of the Stewards and their friends, with a portion reserved lor ladies ;
the enclosure in front of the Stands enlarged, and a telegraphic communica-
tion established between the Qrand Stand and the city. The amount of
added money given to be run for at the race meeting in August, 1854, ex-
ceeded iSl,500. The Course is marked by posts and rails, and has a very
elegant appearance. The old Two Mile Course is 1 mile, 7 furlongs, and 85
yards, in length ; and the ordinary coarse is 1 mile, 6 furlongs, and about 50
4 M
63 4 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
yards, quite flat, aud of a circular sbai)e. The run in is 5 furlongs, which
forms the Two Year Old Course. Here are three race meetings in the year,
viz., the Spring Meeting, held in April or May ; the Aufjvst Meeting^ in that
month; and the Yorkshire Union Hunt Meeting, in October. The first
meeting continues for two days, the second for three days, and the third
occupies but one day.
York Archery Society, — Established in 1833, and now contains upwards of
fifty members, who are elected by ballot. The society holds its meetings on
Knavcsmire. Sir W. M. E. Milner, Bart, M.P., is the president, and Mr.
W. W. Hargrove, secretary.
Charities. — Besides the various hospitals, almshouses, charity schools,
medical and benevolent institutions, which we have described, there are
several charity trusts belonging to the city, the administration of which is
in the hands of Trustees appointed by the Corporation, who publish an
annual statement of tlieir receipts and expenditure. This renders it entirely
unnecessary for us to burden our pages with the particulars of these charities.
EMINENT MEN. — Several of the Worthies who occupy niches in the
York Temple of Fame, are already mentioned in the Annals of the Bishops
(See page 381); and amongst the other men of eminence, or persons who
were famed for their piety, literary attainments, or proficiency in the arts
and sciences, and who were natives of York, the following are the most cele-
brated. It may however be observed that, although so many great men have
at different times resided in York, yet but few appear to have been bom there.
Constantine the Ch-eat, as has already been observed at page 60, was sup-
posed to have been a native of York, until Niebuhr published his "Lectures
on the History of Rome." He, however, resided for a time in York, and
there assumed the imperial purple on the death of his father Constantius.
Alcuin, one of the greatest luminaries of the age in which he flourished,
was a native of York or its neighbourhood, as he himself declares in his
poem on the saints of that diocese, and is supposed to have been bom about
the year 720. Foreigners not being accustomed to pronounce the tr, he
omitted it in his name ; which he mollified into Albinus, prefixing to it in
France the name of Flaccus, from Horace. In his letters he often styles
himself Flaccus Albinus. He was nobly bom, and became a monk at York,
and was made deacon of that church. He learned Latin and Greek, and the
elements of the Hebrew language, and went through the sacred studies under
Egbert and Elbert, who taught a great school in York. (Some writers assert
that Alcuin received the rudiments of his education from the Venerable Bede.)
When Elbert succeeded Egbert in the archbishopric, in 766, he committed to
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 635
Alcuin the care of the school, and of the great library belonging to the church,
and his reputation attracted crowds of students from Gaul and Germany, and
many of them in after life became distinguished men. He was now esteemed
the most erudite man of the age. Eanbald, the nephew of Elbert, being
appointed to the See of York, sent Alcuin to Rome, to bring over his pall, in
780, and on his return from the " Eternal City," he met, at Parma, Charle-
magne, or Charles the Great, King of France, afterwards Emperor. That
potentate desirous of adding literary honours to the fame he had acquired in
arms, earnestly desired to detain him ; but the canons obHged him to return
to his own church. However that Prince prevailed with the King of North-
umberland and the Archbishop of York to send him back to France. He
appointed him to open a great school in his own palace, and generally as-
sisted in person at his lessons with the Princes, his sons — and this example
was followed by the chief nobility of the country. He also, by his advice,
instituted an academy in his palace, consisting of many learned men, who
met on certain days to discourse on points of sacred learning.
Alcuin, we are told by Gaillard, weaned Charlemagne from the passion
for conquests, by discovering to him a new source of true greatness, far
dearer to humanity ; and it is the cultivation of the maxims and lessons of
that wise tutor that has principally rendered the name of that great Piiiice
immortal in the eyes of true judges ; for instructed by such a master, the
royal pupil learned to set a just value on true knowledge ; and to place his
glory in protecting science, in perfecting the administration, and in extending
in every respect the empire of reason. When in his old age Alcuin retired
from the distractions of the palace, many followed him to his retreat at the
Abbey of St Martin, at Tours, where he wrote some of his best works, and
where he continued his favourite occupation of teaching, till his death, which
occurred on Whit Sunday, the 19th of May, 804. At his death he was
lamented as the pride of his age and the benefactor of the empire.
Alcuin 's works are numerous, and the best edition of them is by the
learned Andrew Duchesne, in throe tomes, published in 1617. They consist
principally of poems, elementary introductions to the different sciences, trea-
tises on a variety of theological subjects, the lives of several saints, and an
interesting correspondence with the most celebrated characters of the age in
which he lived. The Bible which Alcuin transcribed and presented to
Charlemagne on the day of his coronation, is now in the British Museum,
having been purchased for it a few years ago for the sum of £750.
Bobert Flower, the hermit of Knaresborough, usually called St. Robert
(though he has not been canonized), was the son of Took Flower, who was
I
636 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
twice Mayor of York. He was bom towards the close of the Idth centoij,
and became a monk of the Cistercian Order at York. After some years he
remoTed to Knaresborough, where he resided at a hermitage among the
rocks. From hence he removed to Spofforth, bat retomed to Knaresbofongfa,
where he led a hermit's life, and ended his days. His reputed sanctity led
many persons to visit him, among whom was King John. The oell in which
he passed his days still remains, and is known as St. Robert's Care. It is
romantically sitoated among the rocks overhanging the river Nidd, and will
be fJEtmiliar to the readers of Bulwer's historical romance called ** Eugene
Aram/* it being the place in which Aram and his companions in guilt coo*
cealed the body of their murdered victim, and whero the remains lay undis-
covered for several years.
John Waldby, and Bohert his brother, two eminent scholars who flourished
in the 14th century, were natives of York ; Robert was the 47th Arohbishop
of the province. (See page 897.)
John Ergham, another learned friar of the same order, was bom in York,
and flourished about the year 1400. He was an able preacher, and the
author of many books, most, if not all, of which he dedicated to Edward
Stafford, Earl of Hereford, and the Duke of Buckingham.
John Bate, a Carmelito friar, a profound expositor of the Holy Scriptures,
and an author of celebrity in the fifteenth century, was a native of York.
Thomas Morton, Bishop of Durham, was bom in the Pavement, York, in
1564. His fiftther, Richard Morton (aUied to Cardinal Morton, Archbidiop
of Canterbuiy), was a mercer, and is said to have been the first of the trade
that lived here — ^his successors in it being his apprentices. The subject of
this notice was bred in the school of this city, and thence romoved to Si.
John's College, Cambridge, of which he became a FeUow. Afterwards he
became chaplain to Lord Evers, and was sent as Ambassador to tiie King of
Denmark and some German Princes, by King James I., after which he was
preferred to the deaneries of Gloucester and Wincester first, and Uien to
the Sees of Chester, Coventiy and Lichfield, and lastiy to Durham. He was
deprived of the latter bishopric by the Parliament in 1640, and died in 1659,
aged 95. The writer of this prolate*s life says that he was schoolieUow at
York with Guy Fawkes, the Gunpowder Plot conspirator.
Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset, was bom in this city. His father, Thomas
Carr, a man of power and wealth in the south of Scotland, being active for
Mary, the unfortunate Queen of Scote, was forced his country ; but coming
to York, whero he was suffered to live quietiy, his son Robert was bom there.
The latter, by having broken his leg at a tilting mateh in London, came
TOPOGRAPHY OF. YORK. 637
under the cognizance of James I., who, pitying his ill lack, enquired into his
family and person ; and finding that his father had heen a sufferer for the
Queen, his mother, and that he was a deserving man, he took him into fiivour,
and made him successiyely a Baronet, Viscount, and Earl of Somerset He
was afterwards hanished the court, and died in ohscurity in 1688.
Sir Tkonuu Herbert, Ban,^ son of Mr. Thomas Herbert, merchant and
alderman of York, was bom in this city in 1606. He was educated at Jesus
College, Cambridge, and afterwards spent several years abroad in visiting
Europe and parts of Asia and Africa. He was related to the Earl of Pem-
broke, and was chosen one of the attendants of Charles I. ; and he and
Bidiop Juxton were the only persons who attended that unfortunate monarch
to the scaffold. Mr. Herbert attended Charles IE. during his captivity, and
for his fidelity he vnis made a Bazonet at the Restoration. He published a
folio of his travels, in 1677 ; and an account of the two last years of the reign
of Charles I. was published in 1703. He was also the author of a poem,
entitled Threno^UA Carolina, He died in this city in March, 1681, in the
76th year of his age, and was buried in the church of St. Crux.
6fuy Fawke»f of Gunpowder Plot celebrity, was, according to some, bom in
York, in 1570, in the parish of St. Michael-le-Belfty ; but others assert that
Bishopthorpe was the place of his nativity. He appears by birth and edu-
cation to haye been a Protestant. His father died when he was young, but
his mother marrying again, he removed with her to Scotton, a small hamlet
near Ejiaresborough, where he became acquainted with some influential
Catholic fiunilies in the neighbourhood, whose religious faith he soon em-
braced. In 1693 he left England, and became a soldier in the Spanish army,
in the Netheriands, under the Archduke Albert. In 1605 he returned to
England, and acted a principal part in the prqjected gunpowder treason, for
which he suffered execution, January 81st, 1606, at Westminster.
Marmaduke FothergiU, the Nonconformist Minister of Skipwith, whose
collection of books and manuscripts are now in the Minster Library, was a
native of York. (See pe^e 468.)
BeUby Partenu, Biahop of London, was bom in this city in 1781, and was
the youngest of nineteen children. From the school at Ripon he went to the
University of Cambridge. He obtained various prefOTments, until he became
Bishop of Chester in 1776. In 1787 he was translated to London, and he
died in 1809.
Henry Swinburne, an eminent D.C.L., was bom at York about the middle
of the 16th century, and educated at the Free Grammar School of the cily.
As his contemporary and countryman, Gilpin, was called the " Apostle of the
638 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
North," so Swinburne was styled the "Northern Advocate "—one Uing
famous for his learning in divinity, and the other in the civil law.
ChrUtopher Carticritjht, a profound scholar, styled Vir erudkissimuBt vis
bom at York, and is known to the learned world for his Annotations on
Genesis and Exodus.
John Earle was bom in York in 1601, and entered Merton College, Ox-
ford, in 1020. Wood, his biographer, tells us that his younger years were
adorned with oratory, poetry, and witty fancies, and his elder with quaint
preaching and subtle disputes. He rose successively from the deanery of
Westminster to the bishopric of Worcester, and ultimately to that of London.
He died at Oxford in 1665, and was buried near the high altar in the chapel
of Merton College, in that city.
Sir Clifton Wintrintjfiam, Bart, physician to King George IV., was born
at York, in the house now known as the Judges* Lodgings, in Lendal, in
1710. His father was also an eminent physician in th\^ city. Sir Clifton
pubUahed several works, viz., " An Experimental Inquiiy into some parts of
the Animal Structure," in 1740 ; " An Inquiry into the Exility of the ye>sels
of the Human Body," in 1743 ; " De Morquibusdum," two vols., in 1782 and
1791 ; and an edition of Dr. Mead s " Monita et Pnecepta Medica cum multis
notis." He died in London on the 10th of January, 1794, aged 84.
John Flnxtnan, the celebrated sculptor, was born in this city, July 6tb,
1766, but he settled early with his father in London. His excellence as a
sculptor is universally acknowledged.
WiUiam Etty, R. A., " the poetic painter of the human form," was born in
this city in 1787, and was apprenticed to a printer at Hull, but after having
served his time, he adopted the profession of an artist ; studied under Sir
Thomas Lawrence ; and then travelled in Italy, and stayed some time at
Venice. In 1827 he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Academy; and after
having amassed a considerable fortune, he died at York, in November, 1849,
in the 63rd year of his age, and his remains were interred in the church-yard
of St. Olave, Marygate, attended by the Corporation and a numerous bodyirf
his fellow-citizens, Etty s biography has been just published.
The late Oeorge Todd, Bookseller, of York, published an interesting little
History of Sheriff Hutton Castle. This much respected person lost his lift
from cold, contracted by his zealous endeavours in assisting in the attempt
to extinguish the fire at York Minster, in 1829. Before his death he wrote
a short account of that fire, which is given in the second edition of Halt-
penny's Gothic Ornaments.
Bohert Varies, Esq,, the late learned Town Clerk of York, was bom in this
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 639
city, and now resides at the Mount, without Micklegate Bar. This gentle-
man published, in 1843, a very interesting work entitled " Extracts from the
Municipal Records of the City of York, in the 16th century," one vol. 8vo. ;
and in 1850, "TheFawkes's of York in the 16th Century," a small 8vo.
vol., was published from the pen of the same writer.
George Lawton, Esq., a native of this city, and now residing at Nunthorpe,
near York (a Proctor of the Ecclesiastical Court of York of many years
standing, and also Registrar of the Archdeaconry of the East Riding of York-
shire), has published the following works : — " The Marriage Act, arranged
with Notes," 8vo. in 1823 — second edition in 1824 ; A Treatise of Bona
NotabUia, together with an account of the Archiepiscopal Courts of Probate
within the Province of York, and of the peculiar courts of Probate within
that Province," 8vo., 1826 ; *' A list of Manorial Courts within the Counties
of York and Nottingham, which possess the right of pi*oving WiUs," 8vo.
" Collectio Rerum Ecclesiasticarum de Dicecesi Eboracensi, or Collections
Relative to the Churches and Chapels within the Diocese of York," to which
are added " Collections Relative to the Diocese of Ripon," two vols., 8vo.,
1840 — a second edition of this work in one large vol., 8vo., was published in
1842, with an appendix, containing Excerpta from the MS. Repertory of
Endowments by Dr. Ducarel, preserved in Lambeth Palace, transcribed by
permission of the late Archbishop of Canterbury, and '' The Religious Houses
of Yorkshire," 8vo., in 1853.
Mr. John Browney of Blake Street, York (a native of this city), has pub-
lished a YeTj voluminous and elaborate " History of the Edifice of the Metro-
politan Church of St. Peter, York." This great work, which was commenced
in 1827, and completed in 1847, is in 33 numbers (4to Elephant) to corres-
pond with Halfpenny's " Gothic Ornaments ;" or in two vols. It is illustrated
by extracts from authentic records, by plans, sections, and engravings of
architectural and sculptural details ; and some of the best authorities have
declared it to be, not only the best History of the Cathedral, but to be of
more practical service to the profession of the Architect, than any other work
published on pointed architecture and its decorations.
The following eminent and learned individuals though not bom there,
were, or, as in some of the cases have been, so long connected with York,
as to justify us in classing them amongst the worthies of that venerable city ;
for most certainly the names of Drake, Gent, Hargrove, Wellbeloved, and
Phillips, will ever be associated with the Uterati of York.
Francis Drake, the historian of York, was the son of the Rev. F. Drake,
Rector of Hemsworth and Vicar of Pontefract. He was bom in 1695, and in
640 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
early life took up his residence in York, where he pnu^tised as a suigeon of
good reputation. He married Maiy, daughter of John Woodyeare, Esq., of
GrookhiU, near Doncaster, by whom he had two sons, Rer. Francifl Drake,
D.D., Vicar of St Mary*8, Beyerley, and Rector of Winestead, in Holdemess ;
and Rev. William Drake, F.A.S., Rector of Isleworth, Middlesex. The
subject of this notice was an eminent antiquary, and F.R.3. He puUiahed
his yalnable work called *'Eboracnm, or the Histoiy and Antiquities of
York," in one yd., folio, with plates, in 1736, which was dedicated to his
ftiend the Earl of Burlington. He also was one of the compilers of the
" Parliamentary History of England to the Restoration," and contributed
seyeral papers to the Philosophical Transactions, and tiie Archnlogia. He
died in 1770, aged 76, and was buried in St Mary's Church, Beyerley,
where a monument is erected to his memory. His residence in York was
in Coney Street, near the Oeorge HoteL
Thomas Gfent, a well known collector and publisher of antiquities relatiye
to Yorkshire, was bom in DubHn, in 1691, and in due time was apprenticed
to a printer in that city; but bec(»ning unaettied, he ran away from his
master and went to London, where he soon met with employment He
afterwards remoyed to York, where he worked in the office of Mr. White, in
Petergate, but soon returned to Ireland to yisit his friends ; again came oyer
to England and settied in London, from whence he remoyed to York in 1734,
at the inyitation of his former master's widow, whom he married not long
after, and settied in Coffee Yard, behind Stonegate. He was now master of
one of the few printing offices out of London, for he himself teUs us, in his
autobiography, that at this time there were no printers in Chester, Liyerpool,
Preston, Manchester, Kendal, or Leeds. In 1780 he printed and published
** The Antient and Modem History of the Famous City of York." In 1736
he published his History of Hull, which was followed by a History of Ripon,
and in 176d his " History of the East Window of York Minster " appeared.
All tiiese works display considerable industry and care, and are highly es-
teemed by the collectors of English topography, perhaps on account of their
singularity. Gent*s closing years were often embittered by the diffioulties
he met with in his business, and he died at his house in Peteigate^ cm the
lOih of May, 1778, in his 87th year, and was interred in the church of St
Michael-le-Belfry. Many years afterwards his autobiography was publiahed.
Mr. R. Dayies, in his lecture at the York Institute, already quoted, stated
that in the large house in Petergate, now in the occupation of Dr. Shamn,*
• According to the same aathority, the Talbot Hotel, a very old Inn, anciently
occupied the site of this house.
TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK. 641
hrmerlj resided Dr. Alexander Hunter, the author of several works, and
opposite lived "Tommy Gent," an old well-known printer, whose produc-
tions, though the rudest specimens of typography, sold at a better price than
some of the bulkier tomes of his neighbour. Gent is thus described by
AUen : — '^In his person as well as his mind eccentricity generally appeared
predominant He was low in stature, mostly woi^ a long doak &stened
round him with a belt, suffered his beard to grow a great length, and seemed
also to affect an extraordinary air of gravity. His circumstances were
generally indigent, so much so, that he often sold almanacks, &c., for the
York booksellers."
WUUam PeckUt, a skilful glass painter and stainer, was bom at Husth-
waite, in the North Biding of Yorkshire, in 1731, and commenced practising
his art in York in 1751, being entirely a self-taught artist Some stained
glass windows, executed by him, adorn the south transept of the Minster, as
we have already observed ; as well as another in the Magistrate's Boom, at
the Guild-HalL He died at York in 1795, in the 64th year of his age, and
was buried in the chancel of the church of St Martin, Mickl^ate.
LintUey Murray, the celebrated grammarian, lived for a number of years at
Holdgate, near York. He was a native of Pennsylvania, in North America,
and resided for some part of his life at New York, where his father was a
distinguished merchant At the age of nineteen he commenced the study of
the law, and subsequently practised both as a counsel and attorney in all the
courts of the state of New York. He continued in the profession till the
troubles in America interrupted all business of this nature, and then he en-
gaged in mercantile pursuits, and soon acquired a handsome independence.
But his health becoming impaired, he came over to this country in 1784, in
order to recruit it Being much pleased with York and its neighbourhood,
he at length settled there, and purchased the house which stands near the
bridge at Holdgate, where he passed the remainder of his days. His disorder
increasing, he was rendered incapable of ezyoying the usual occupations and
amusements of life ; and as his mental faculties were unimpaired, he directed
his attention to the composition of literary works for the rising generation.
Copies of his first work, '' The power of Beligion on the Mind," were distri-
buted anonymously among the principal inhabitants of York ; but the author
did not remain long concealed, for a new edition was soon called for. The
first edition of his " English Grammar " appeared in 1795, and had a rapid
sale. It was quickly followed by the " English Exercises," the " English
Beader," and the " Introduction " and " Sequel to the Header," and a " Spel-
ling Book." All of these books were originally printed in York, but the copy-
4 N
04*2 TOPOGRAPHY OF YORK.
right was afterwards disposed of to a London publisher. These works were
received with considerable satisfaction, and still oontinoe scholastic works of
the first character. Having begon his literaiy career from disinterested
motives, he constantlj devoted all the profits of his pablicatknis to charitable
and benevolent purposes ; and in all his works it was his constant aim to
promote the caose of religion and virtae. Lindlej Mnrraj died at Holdgate
on the 16th of January, ISQii, aged 80, and was interred in the burial-ground
belonging to the Society of Friends in this city, of which body he was a dis-
tinguished member.
WUliam Hargrove, Esq., was bom at Knaresborough, October 16th, 1788,
being the youngest son of the historian of that place. In July, 1813, he left
his native town, and became a proprietor and the editor of the York Herald
newspaper. In 1818 he published, in two vols., royal 8vo, a '' History and
Description of the Ancient City of York ;** and the same year he was elected
a member of the Common Council of that city. He also, afterwards, served
the office of Sheriff of the City, and during several years, was one of the City
Commissioners, and took an active part in most of the public improvements
of the city. He is still the editor and proprietor of the Herald (in conjunction
with two of his sons), after forty-one years of extraordinary political excite-
ment. Mr. Hargrove also published two or three excellent Guides to York.
Mr, Alfred E. Hargrove (son of the above) published an interesting little
work, entitled ** Anecdotes of Archery,*' which contains an account of all the
existing societies, rules, and other matters relating to archery. The same
gentleman published a sort of Tourists' Guide to all the places of public
interest within twenty-six miles of York.
Rev. CfiarUs Wellbeloved, pastor of the English Presbyterian Chapel, in St
Saviourgate, for more than fifty-five years, having first been assistant to the
Rev. N. Cappe for eight years. (See page 549.) He began his ministerial
services at York on the 4th of February, 1792 ; consequently he has exercised
the functions of the ministry in the above-mentioned chapel for upwards of
sixty years. Mr. Wellbeloved is the author of a new translation of portions
of the Bible, viz., the Pentateucb,'i« and the poetical and didactic books, from
Job to Solomon's Song, inclusive, with notes mostly original, in two vols.,
4to, designed for the use of families. In 1842 he published his interesting
work, called " Eburacum, or York under the Romans," one vol., 4to. For
some years he has been the Curator of Antiquities in the Museum of the
• The Pentateucht or Fivo Books of Moses, is the oldest writing in the world. These
books were written 3,300 years ago, and claim an antiquity higher, by nearly a thousand
years, than any other authentic history we possess.
THE AIKSTT WAPEKTAKE. 648
Yorkshire Philosophical Society, and the '' Descriptive Account of the Anti-
qaities in the Grounds and in the Museum," was composed hj him, with the
exception of the part relating to the Egyptian antiquities, which was drawn
up by his son-in-law, the Rev. J. Kendrick. Mr. Wellbeloved was bom at
Westminster, in the parish of St. Giles, on the 6th of April, 1769, so that he
is now eighty-six years of age. He studied at New College, Hackney.
John PhilUps, Esq,, F.KS., the celebrated Professor of Geology, and now
the deputer " Reader " in that science in the University of Oxford, has been
connected with the city and county of York for the last quarter of a century.
Professor PhiUips is the author of several works on Natural History, Geology,
Ac. ; amongst which are lUmtratUms of the Geology of Yorkshire, 4to, with
plates, vol. i. in 1829 ; Snd edition, 1836 ; vol. ii. in 1836 ; and the Rivers,
Mountains^ and Sea Coast, of Yorkshire, 8vo, with plates, 1st edition, 1853.;
Sind edition, 1855. He is also the author of many papers published in the
proceedings of the principal scientific societies in the kingdom, and he has
published a Geological Map of Yorkshire, coloured.
The district contiguous to the city of York, on its south-western side, was
originally a wapentake or hundred of the West Riding, " under the care of
the Mayor and Citizens, as Bailiffs," or stewards of it ; but by a charter
in the 27th of the reign of Henry VI. (1448), it was annexed to the city,
and made a part of the County of the City of York, Hence the inhabi-
tants of the Ainsty were obliged to resort to the Lord Mayor and Magistrates
of the city for the adjustment of all civil dissensions, though the freeholders
of that division were not entitled to any privileges or franchises as citizens
of York, but remained in other respects as inhabitants of the county at large ;
being allowed to vote at the county elections. Thus the Ainsty continued
under the jurisdiction of the Lord Mayor and Magistrates of the city until
the passing of the Municipal Act in 1836, when it was incorporated with
the West Riding, and of which division of the county it now, as in ancient
times, forms a wapentake. In several ancient writings the name of this
district is spelt Ancitty; and some have supposed the word to be derived
from Aficientcy, denoting its antiquity. Camden conjectures that its etymo-
logy may be more plausibly referred to the German word Antossen, implying
644 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
a boundary or limit* Drake supposes it to have been deriyed from the old
northern word A f tent, which signifies opposite or contiguous, and says it was
called the Ainstj long before it was annexed to the city.f The whole district
was anciently a forest, but it was disforested by the charters of Bichard L
and his sucoessor John. For the first of these grants the inhabitants paid
JS19. Os. lld.» and for the latter, which declared that the men of this wapen-
take, as the charter expressed it, should be for ever free finom forest laws,
acoount was made to the King of the sum of IdO marks and three palfreys.^
Sir Thomas Widdrington tells us that the city of York had from a yery eariy
period laid daim to this jurisdiction, by a charter from King John. In the
time of Edward L the Mayor and Bailiffs were summoned to answer the
King, '' quo warranto," they held the Ainsty ; and it appears from the pleas
held before that Monarch, in 1280, that the Mayor produced a charter from
King John, by which he claimed the hundred of the Ainsty ; but the charter
was, on inspection, found rased in the date in the word "quarto." On
searching the rolls in the Exchequer, it was found that John did, in the
year 1214, grant to the citizens of York, the town of York, in fee farm, for
the rent of £U0,; and because the Ainsty was not specified in the charter
of " anno quarto,*' and also because the charter was rased, judgment was
given against the Mayor and citizens, the charter was annulled, and the
Mayor was committed to prison, but soon after bailed. Sir T. Widdrington
considered it a matter of doubt whether the citizens of York had any good
warrant for holding the Ainsty, saying for the '*leet" and some other
liberties^ till it was annexed to the city by the before-mentioned charter or
patent of Henry VI.
Till the year 1735 a doubt existed whether the freeholders of the Ainsty
had a right of suffrage at the elections for Members of Parliament for this
county, on the ground that it formed part and parcel of a separate county,
and though their yotes were receiyed by the Sheriff, they were always taken
with a query prefixed to their names; but after the contest between Sir
Miles Stapletan, Bart., and Sir Rowland Winn, Bart, the matter was brought
to issue before the House of Commons, on the 9th of March, 1735, when
this House decided " That the persons whose freeholds lie within that part
of the city of York which is commonly called the Ainsty, haye a right to yote
for Knights of the Shire of the County of York."
This district, which constitutes part of the beautiful and extensiye Vale of
York, has the same natural features. In the western part the surface is
* Britanniffi, p. 722. t Eboracnm, c. ix., p. ^81.
I Ibid. Madox Exchoq. pp. 274 and 282.
THE AINSTT WAPENTAKE. 645
divenified with gentle swells, but in the eastern part, ac]|}oining to the Ouse,
it is a perfect flat, abounding in excellent pasturage and meadow.
The Ainstj is bounded by the riTors Ouse, Wharfe, and Nidd ; it is inter-
sected by the post road from York to Tadcaster, and the Norih-Eastem Eail-
waj; its area, according to the Parliamentary return, is 49,720 acres; and
it contains the following parishes and places : — Acaster MaUna, Acaster Sdby,
Acomb, Aakham Bryan, Askham Richard, BUbraugh, Biltan, Biahopthorpe,
BoUon Percy, Healaugh, part of Holy Trirdty (York), part of Kirk Ham-
merton. Long MarsUm, porta of St. Mary Biahophill Senior, and St. Mary
BiahophiU Junior (York), Moor-Monkton, Netker-Poppleton, Bufforth, part
qf StUUngfUet, part of Tadgasteb, Thorp-Arch, Walton, and Wighill.
AcASTEB Malbis. — ^Thls parish, which is also called Over-Acaater, is situ-
ated on the western bank of the river Ouse, and comprises the township of
Acaster, and the Parochial Chapelry of Nabum ; the latter being in the Ouse
and Derwent wapentake of the East Riding. The parish deriyes its second
name from the family of Malby, Malbys, or Malebisse, which flourished
here for some centuries after the Conquest, until at length a daughter and
heiress was married to Fairfax of Walton, created Viscount Emley.
The following notices occur respecting the manor of Acaster Malbis : — ^In
the 86<li year of the reign of Henry HI. (1352), the King granted free
warren to the Abbot of Selby in all his demesne lands here and in other
places. In the dlst of Edwurd IH. (1847), Sir William de Malebisse, Knt.,
Lord of Acaster, confirmed to the Canons of Gisebum, in the deanery of
Cleveland, all the lands, &c., which they held of this fee. In the 23rd of
Henry VI. (1444), the manors of Acaster Malbis, Walton, &c., were remitted
and quitclaimed by Bryan Fairfax to his brother William, and John Dantry,
and Richard Banks.* The Right Hon. Lord Wenlock is the present Lord
of the Manor of Acaster Malbis, and sole proprietor, except the school and
prenuses, yrbich belong to the feoffees of Enowles* charity for the time being.
According to the Parliamentary Report, the area of this township is 1,780
acres, but finom another source we learn tdiat it is 1,839 acres. The amount
of assessed property in the township is £S,476. ; the rateable value of it is
J61,8S6. ; and the population in 1851 was 330 souls.
The Living is a Perpetual Curacy, though in the Liber Regis, in which
it is rated at £6. 6s. 5id., it is styled a Discharged Vicarage. It is valued
in the Parliamentary return of 1810 at JS3d. ; but the net income is now
about J656. From a very early period the advowson belonged to the Malby
• Harleian MSS., 704.
646 THB AIXSTY WAPENTAKE.
family, for we find Sir Richard Malebj, Knt., presented to the church of
Acaster, 15th February, 1294 ; and on the 11th of December, 1358, Sir
Richard Malebjrs, Knt., by the consent of the Archbishop of York, granted
the church of Acaster to the Abbot and Convent of Newbo, of the Premon-
stratensian Order, of the diocese of Lincoln. On the dissolution of religious
houses, the advowson fell to the Crown, from which it afterwards passed
through various hands to the present patron and impropriator. The Rev.
Robert Ellis is the present incumbent
The Church (Holy Trinity), which, from its cruciform shape, is locally
called the Synagogue, is an ancient edifice, nith a low square wooden tower,
and a small spire, rising from the centre. All the fronts of the building
have modem windows of three lights, with trefoil heads, and above each is a
circle, either enclosing a quatrefoil or a trefoil light. All the roo£s rise to
gables, and are finished with neat foliated crosses. On the north side of the
nave is a porch, with a pointed arched door of entrance ; and the edifice, on
the whole, is a fJEur specimen of the architecture of the 13th century. The
tower contains two bells. The church was repaired, and the interior r^ewed,
in 1832. In the chaucel is a trefoil-headed piscina, and beneath it the mu-
tilated effigy of a Crusader, in hauberk suit On his left arm is a shield,
bearing a chevron between three griffins* heads, being the arms of one of the
Malbis family. Ac()oining is a slab, with a cross fiory. There is some
curious stained glass in this church ; in the east window is Our Saviour be-
tween two saints, and in the lower part shields of arms ; in the north window
of the chancel are two small figures of St James and St Andrew ; and in the
window of the south aisle are two figures, one of which is crowned and
sceptered ; and the other is in chain armour, with a helmet and ecclesiastical
robe, and in his hand a crosier. The Royal Arms bear the date of 1683.
The Village is small, and irr^ularly built, and stands near the river Ouse,
about Si miles S. of York, and 2 miles W. of the Nortb-Eaatem Railway.
Charities, — John Knowles gave, by his will, in 1603, the sum of ;£100. to
four feofiees and their successors, " to find a sufficient schoolmaster to teach
the youth of the parish ; and the further sum of £30. for the use of the poor."
These sums were afterwards expended in the purchase of a dose of land
without Dootham Bar, near York. John KetUewell, by his will, dated 4th
of August, 1838, left £100. to the poor of this township.
The School is endowed with £29. 4s. per annum from Knowles' charity, to
which Lord Wenlock adds a voluntary gift of £10. 16s., making the total
£40. per annum ; and for this sum aU the children of the labouring popula-
tion of the place are taught free. The average number of children that
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 647
attend the school is about twenty-five. Three old oak seats were removed
from the church to the school in 1832 ; one of them bears the following date
and inscription : — " Joseph DaniePs Gift, 1700. Sit and welcome."
Naburm. — This is a township and parochial chapelry, situated on the
opposite side of the Ouse in the parishes of Acaster Malbis, St. George
and St Dennis, York. The whole of the lands of Nabum belonged to the
Palmes family from a.d. 1224, down to the year 1775, when the grandfather
of the Rev. William Lindsay Palmes, Rector of Long Eiston, and Vicar of
Hornsea (the present Lord of the Manor), obtained an Act of Parliament for
the removal of the old entail, and sold half the estate. The Rev. W. L.
Palmes and H. M. Baines, Esq., are the chief proprietors of the soil, but
there are several freeholders who farm their own land. Amount of assessed
property, £3,414. ; rateable value, £3,986. ; population in 1851, 481. Area
of township, 2,466 acres.
The Old Church, which is a small edifice comprising a nave and chancel,
stands within the grounds of Nabum Hall, on the banks of the river Ouse,
bat there was no place of burial except for the Palmes' family, the other
inhabitants were buried in the church-yard of St. George's parish, York.
The New Church, which is in the early Decorated style, was erected in
1854, at a cost of £2,407., raised by subscription. John C. Clifford, Esq.,
contributed the munificent sum of £700., and the Lord of the Manor was a
large contributor. It occupies a pleasant situation near the village, and
consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle, with a tower and spire at the
north west angle, also a south porch. It is a very neat edifice. The tower
contains three bells, and the east and west gables are surmounted with hand-
some crosses. The interior is furnished with open seats, which as well as the
open roof are stained. The east and west windows are each of three lights ;
the former being filled with stained glass, as a memorial to the late George
Palmes, Esq. The font is neat, and of Caen stone, with an octagonal oak
cover. The architect of the building was Mr. G. T. Andrews, of York.
The old church will probably be allowed to remain as long as it will hold
together, as there is a vault for the Palmes' family under it It is likely that
the space will be railed in ultimately, and a portion of the east end repaired
and left to remain. The Benefice is a Perpetual Curacy, annexed to the
Rectory of St Dennis, York. Great tithes, commuted in 1766, for land
which now produces about £60. per annum. The small tithes were com-
muted by the Tithe Commissioners, at about £49., in 1848. The Rev. W.
L. Palmes is the lay impropriator. There is a burying ground attached to
the new church.
648 THE AIN8TY WAPENTAKE.
The ViUage is situated near the river Ouse, across which there is a feny
here to Acaster Malbis, aboat four miles south of YoriL. Here, on the Oose,
a lock and dam were erected in 1737, in order to impfrove the navigation of
the river. (See page 580.) The tide flows up to Nabum Lock, and pleasure
excursions, by steam boats, are often made from YoriL to this pkoe in som-
mer. A fine Maypole, about seventy feet in height, stands in the village.
There is a small Methodiit Chapel here, erected about thirty-five years ago.
Nabum Hall, the property of the Rev. W. L. Palmes, but now in the
occupation of Mrs. Uoyd, is an ancient mansion near the Onse, situated in
pleasant grounds. It was badly modernized in 1818.
Bell Hall is the seat and property of H. M. Baines, Esq. ; DeighUm Grave
is the seat of John C. Clifford, Esq. ; and Ungcroft Lodge is also a good
residence in the occupation of G. J. Lloyd, Esq.
The School is endowed with tho interest of £S00. (Dickinson^s and Loftiis*8
charity), and the sum of £5. per ann. from Lady Hewley*s charity. For
these sums fifteen children are taught free.
AcASTEB Selbt. — ^TMs township, which was formerly united to the parish
of StilHngfleet on the opposite side of the river Ouse, was anciently called
Nether Atdcaster, and was given to the Abbey of Selby by Osbert de Arches,
Sheriff of the county in the reign of William the Conqueror ; and hence its
second tatle. Richard I. confirmed the gift to the Abbey. At an eaily
period Robert Stillington founded here a College for a Provost and three
Fellows, one of whom was to instruct children. It was dedicated to St.
Andrew, and valued, at the dissolutbn, at £38. lOs. 4d. gross, and £d7. ISs.
4d. per annum nett. In the dnd of Edward VI. it was granted to John
Halse and William Pendred.
The area of this township is 1,633 acres, and is the property of Sir W. M.
E. Milner, Bart The amount of assessed property is J6d,107. ; the rateable
value is £d,107. ; and the population is 1861 was 184 souls.
By an Order of Council, of the date of Idth of November, 1860, this town-
ship was formed into an Ecclesiastical District The Chwrek^ which is
dedicated to St John the Evangelist, and was erected and endowed by the
late Sir W. M. S. Milner, was opened for Divine wordiip on Thnrsday, July
18th, 1860 ; and within five years date it has received the remains of its
founder, which now peacefully repose in a spaoioos new vanlt at its east end.
It is a beautiful little Oothic edifice, very picturesquely sitoated upon the
banks of the Ouse, commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding neigh-
bouriiood. At the west end are two memorial windows of stained g^bas ; one
to the Rev. George Milner, and the other in memoiy of David MazUiain,
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 049
Esq. The church-yard, which is neatly ornamented with trees and shrubs,
is enclosed by a light iron fence, within which is planted a hedge of beautiful
holly. The Living is a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of Sir W. M. £. Milner,
and incumbency of the Rev. George Hustler. A Parsonage House is about
to be erected by the patron.
The Village is pleasantly situated about 7^ miles S. W. from York. The
North-Eastem Railway passes at a short distance from it.
The School is aided by an old endowment of £7, per ann. A neat school-
room, and a commodious house for the teacher, stand near the church.
AcoMB. — This parish, which comprises the township of Acomb or Akeham,
anciently called Ascham^ and part of the townships of Dringhouses and Knap-
ton, is situated on the south side of the riyer Ouse. At the time of the
Domesday Survey, we find that the church of St. Peter, York, had Acho
(Acomb) as a manor. It is valued in Edward the Confiessor^s time at 30s.,
and was then of the same value. The area of the township of Acomb is
1,440 acres; its rateable value is £8,991.; amount of assessed property,
£4,980. ; and its population in 1851 was 874 souls. The principal land-
owners are F. Barlow, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), Hev. Isaac Spencer, Mr.
William Ellis, Sen., Mr. WilHam Ellis, Jun., and Mr. John Burton. The
soil is of a sandy and gravelly nature, and the air is remarkably salubrious.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, and a peculiar of the Dean and
Chapter of York, valued in ihe Eing*s Books at £S. Os. dd. ; but now worth
£109. per ann. The peculiar of Acomb formerly belonged to the Treasurer
of the Cathedral of York, but was surrendered, with the Rectory, to the
Crown in 1547 ; and in 1609 it was granted by James I., to Thomas Newark
and his heir. The advowson now belongs to the Lord of the Manor, and
the Rev. Isaac Spencer, who resides at *' The Plantation," is the incumbent
The tithes of the townships of Acomb and Holdgate were commuted for land
and a money payment, by an inclosure act in 1774.
The Chwreh (St Stephen) is a neat structure, the body of which was re-
stored in 1881-d, by subscriptioni and a grant finom the Church Building
Society ; and the chancel in 1858, at the cost of J. E. Baker, Esq., of Acomb
Park. It is situated on a picturesque eminence, from which there is a fine
view of the surrounding country, and oondstB of a nave and chanod, with an
elegant spite at the west end.
The Village of Acomb, which is large and respectable, is pleasantly situated
about %\ miles west from York, and is much frequented by invalids. The
North-Eastem Railway passes near it Several good residences in the village
and its vicinity are occupied by families of the first respectability.
4 o
650 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
Aconib House is an establUbment for the insane iu the higher grades of
society ; and there is also here another private Lunatic Asylum. Severm'
Hill, an eminence situated about half a mile from the village, is noticed at
page 58 ; and the Waterworks, at Acomb Landing, at page 627 of tliis volume.
A Wesleyan Chapel was built here in 1821, capable of seating about 300
persons. A neat National School has been recently erected near the church
by the liberality of Edmund Barlow, Esq. It is in the Perpendicular style,
and consists of one room, 40 feet by 20. The old school-house stands on a
green, now called the cricket ground, at the back of the village. The sum
of £5. per annum is paid out of Lady Hewley s charity, for the education of
eight poor children of this parish.
Four annuities for the poor, left by William Wharton in 1829, and three
other donors, produce about X'17. per annum.
Dringhouses. — This chapelry and township is partly in the parish of
Acomb, and partly in that of Holy Trinity, Micklegate, and St Mary,
Bishopbill Senior, York, and was formerly called, variously, Drynhous,
Drynghous, and Drenghouses, Thoresby says that Drenges were Vassali
Militares, This township was anciently the lordship and estate of John,
Lord Grey of Rotherfield, having descended to him from his ancestors, who
flourished in the reign of Eichard I. In the 4th of Edward HE. (1331), he
obtained a charter of free warren in this and divers other lordships. This,
and all his other estates, were afterwards carried in marriage from the &milj
of Grey to Sir John Deincourt, among whose daughters they were divided.
Lord Level had a mansion here in the reign of Henry YIII. The chief pro-
prietor of the soil at present is M. A. E. Wilkinson, Esq., M.D., who is Lord
of the Manor, and resides at the Manor House. Area of the township, 751
acres; population in 1851, 342. "Here is an episcopal chapel, erected
about fifty years ago," writes Allen, in 1829 ; " it consists of a nave, chancel,
and south chapel," as well as a square tower, with an octagonal bell turret,
'' and the whole has a mean appearance." This chapel, which belonged to the
Barlows, late of Middlethorpe, has given place to a very elegant little Chtreh,
erected in 1840, at a cost of about £5,000., by Mrs. Leigh (relict of the Rot.
E. T. Leigh, the late Lord of the Manor), afterwards Mrs. M. A. E. Wilkinson.
It is in the Decorated style, and consists of a nave and chancel, with a small
graceful spire. The Living is a Donative, in the gift of the Lord of the
Manor, and incumbency of the Rev. Gilbert H. Phillips. The tithes have
been commuted for £137. 14s., of which sum £130. are paid to an impropri-
ator ; £7. to the Prebendary of Osbaldwick ; and 14s. to the Vicar of Acomb.
The Village, which skirts the road from York to Tadcaster, is small, and
THE AIXSTY WAPENTAKE. 651
stands about li mile S. W. from the former place. There are some good
views of the city and Cathedral of York from this place, and the celebrated
Eace Course on Knavesmire is in the immediate vicinity. There are some
elegant villas in this township ; and the old Tyburn, or place of execution,
formerly stood in it. (See page 590.) In Bawtry field, in 181d, two stone
coffins, with skeletons, were dug up ; and in 1833 a Roman tomb, formed of
tiles, was discovered. (See page 305.) There is a place of worship here for
Wesleyan Methodists.
Knapton Township is partly in the parish of Acomb, and partly in that of
the Holy Trinity, Micklegate, York. It contains 833 acres, and 113 inhab-
itants ; the rateable value of the township is ;£1,095 ; and the tithes were
commuted in 1843 for a rent charge of £28Q. Sir William Eden, Bart., is
Lord of the Manor, and chief proprietor of the soil. The Manor House,
situated in the village, is an old thatched brick building, now a farm house.
The Village consists chiefly of a few farm houses, and stands 3^ miles W.
by N. of York. Here is a place of meeting for the Wesleyans.
AssHAM Bryan, or Great. — This parish, together with that of Askham
Richard formed but one lordship in the Saxon era ; and according to Domes-
day, it belonged, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, to Edwin, Eafl of
Mercia ; but he being slain in opposing the Norman settlement, it was for-
feited to William the Conqueror, with his other great estates in this and
other countries. In the reign of Edward HE., one moiety of this lordship
was in the noble family of Grey of Rotherfield, in Oxfordshire, the last heir
male of which left it to his daughter and heir Joan, who carried it in marriage
to Sir John Deincourt. The division of the lordships into two parishes is
supposed to be in consequence of the partition of it into moieties, and to the
lords building churches for their tenants in their part. When Roger de
Mowbray was going to the Holy Land, he gave all the manor and town of
Askham, with the advowson of the church, to his friend, William de Tykhill ;
but in the reign of Richard HI., the manor of Askham Bryan was the
property of Sir John Deveden, Knt. The place is said to derive the second
part of its name from Bryan Fitz-Alain, who held it of the honour of Rich-
mond, paying 5s. per annum to the Warden of the Castle of that town. The
present Lord of the Manor is Henry Croft, Esq., of StiUington Park, who,
with the Rev. I. D. J. Preston, Miss A. Fawcett, and J. Barstow, Esq., are
the principal landowners. Askham Bryan contains 1,9S0 acres ; its rateable
value is £2,249. ; amount of assessed property, £2,397 ; and its population
in 1851 was 350 souls. Three-fourths of the parish are arable, and the rest
652 THE AIN8TT WAPENTAKE.
meadow, with some few plantations ; the surface is flat, and the soil com-
posed chiefly of gravel and clay.
The Benefice is a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of the Lord of the Manor,
and incumbency of the Rer. R. S. Thompson. It is rated at £8., and is now
worth about JS120. The great and small tithes, the property of the Lord of
the Manor, the Perpetual Curate, and Vicar, were commuted for land, by an
inclosure act in 1811.
The Church (St Nicholas or St. Michael) appears to have been built in the
eleventh century, and consists of a nave and chancel, with a small brick
tower at the west end. On the south side is a porch of modem constmction,
within which is a circular-headed doorway, exhibiting three series of chevron
and counter chevron mouldings, which rest on ornamented columns. The
east end of the church has three narrow circular-headed windows filled up.
and above the centre one is the vieica piscee. The interior is neat
The VUUige of Askham Bryan, or East AMam, stands four miles W.S.W.
from York. Contiguous to the church passes the North Eastern Railway.
There is a place of worship for Wesleyans, and the school is endowed with
jS6. per ann. Several benefieu^tions for the poor amount to about £Q0. a year.
Askham UaU, the seat and property of the Rev. I. D. J. Preston, is a
good mansion pleasantly situated.
AsKfUM RicHAKD, or LiTTLE. — ^This parish acljoins that of Askham Biyan,
with which lordship, as we have stated, it was originally incorporated. In
the 18th of Edward 1. (1390), the King granted free warren to the Prior of
Bridlington, in all his demesne lands at his manors of Bridlington, West
Askham, &c, ; and in the 0th of Edward 11. (1316), the Prior of Bridlington
held this manor. The parish comprises 060 acres ; the amount of aasesaed
property is £1,685., and the population in 1851 was 339. The surface of
the parish is generally level, and the soil is df a gravelly and clayey quality.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, valued in the Liber Regis at £4.
Ids. 4d. ; present income about £300. per annum. William de Arches, and
Ivetta, his wife, gave this church to the Priory of Nun Monkton ; and ac-
cording to the Harleian M88, 704, Pope Celestine appropriated the churches
of Askham Richard, Thorpe, and Hamerton, to the nuna of Monkton.
The tithes were commuted for land in 1818. The Church (St Maiy) is a
small edifice, consisting of a nave and chancel, with a vezy large porch on
the south side, within which is a plain circular arched doorway resting on
two columns, with leaved capitals and square bases. The windows are aD
square and modem ; at the east end is a Venetian window, and above it 1775,
probably the date of alteration. The interior of the church is very plain.
THE AIK8TT WAPENTAKE. 658
The Village of Aikham Eiehardy or West Askkam, is small and scattered,
and is situated about 6^ miles S.W. from York, and 3^ N.E. from Tadcaster.
The road frt>m Leeds to York, and the North-Eastern Railway cross each
other near this place. There is a phice of worship for Wesleyans ; and the
School receives four pounds per annum from Lady Hewley*8 charity.
Askham Hall, the property and residence of John Swann, Esq., which is
pleasantly situated at the west end of the village, is a red brick building,
with projecting wings, two stories in height, and gable rooft.
BiLBBOuoH. — ^This parish adjoins Askham Richard on the south. In the
4th of Henry VI. (1436), it bebnged to Elizabeth, the widow of Richard Baly.
The manors of Bilbrough and Steeton are now the property of Thomas Fair-
fax, Esq., who, together with John Fisher, Esq., the Rev. R. S. Thompson,
and Mrs. Todd, are the principal kndowners. The area of Bilbrough is
1,889 statute acres ; the amount of assessed property is Jg3,003. ; and the
population in 1861 was d5d.
The Church is a Perpetual Curacy, valued at £46. 6s. lOd. ; gross income ;
;£189. The advowson belongs to the Lord of the Manor, and the Rev.
James P. Metcalf is the present incumbent A chantry was founded here
by John Norton, Lord of the pkce, in 149d, who ordained that £4. 6s. 8d.,
in land and inclosure, should be paid to Sir William Dryver, priest, and his
successors, to pray for the souls of the founder, his wife, and children. The
tithes of Bilbrough were commuted in 1888, for a rent-charge of £270.
The Fabric (St Peter) is small, consisting of a nave, chancel, and south
chapel, with a lower tower at the west end. The tower was rebuilt, the
church newly roofed, and other improvements made in the building about
ten years ago. In 1849 the windows were renewed at the sole expense of
the Rev. B. Edmonson, the incumbent at that time. There is nothing par-
ticularly worthy of notice in the exterior of the church. The chantry chapel
appears to have been built in the 16th century. The interior is plain. The
chapel, which is separated from the chancel by two pointed arches resting on
octagonal pillars, contains the spacious table monument of Lord Fairfax, the
celebrated Parliamentary general. On the sides of the monument are shields
of arms, &c., and on the black marble slab are the DBonily arms and motto,
" Fare Fag ;" beneath is the following inscription : —
" Here lye the bodjes of the Bight Honble. Thomas Lord Fair£u, of Denton, Baron
of Cameron, who dyed November ye xii., 1671, in the 60th yeare of his age. And of
Anne his wife, daughter and coheir of Horatio, Lord Yere, Baron of Tilbuiy. They
had issne, Mary, Dnchess of Baokingharo, and Elizabeth. The memory of the just
is bleased."
654 THE AIN8TT WAPENTAKE.
In the easternmost arch is another table monament» on the dado of which
are two shields, with merchant's mariu. The font is a perfect cylinder.
The Village, which, is situated a little off the road between Tadcaster and
York, about 4i miles from either of these places, is small but stands plea-
santly on an eminence. There is a Wmleyan Chapel, which was erected
in 1888 ; and the SeJwol is chiefly supported by a grant of £i, per ann. from
Lady Hewley's charity, and a donation of £10. from the Lord of the Manor.
Other charities connected with the parish produce about £9. per ann.
BUbrough Orange is the seat and property of John Fisher, Esq.
BiLTON. — The townships of Bilton, Bickerton, and Tockwith, are com-
prised in this parish. It contains, according to the Parliamentary Returns,
4,150 statute acres, of which 1,460 acres are in the first-named township ;
the population of the parish in 1851 was 848, and the amount of assessed
property, £5,531. The population of the township of BQton is 321. The
chief proprietors of the soil are Andrew Montague, Esq. (Lord of the Manor);
Mr. Thomas Skilbeck, Bilton Grange; Mr. Thomas Skilbeck, Junior:
Messrs. John Norfolk, Rt. Brogden, and Henry Lumley. The soil is fertile,
and the lands are well cultivated.
In this parish are the remains of the Priory of Sinningthwaite, founded
about the year 1650, by Bertram Haget, for a Prioress and twelve nuns
of the Cistercian Order. It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and the
grant was confirmed by Roger de Mowbray, the Lord of the Manor, and
by Godfrey de Ludham, Archbishop of York. Pope Alexander m., in
1172, granted to Christiana, the Prioress, and to the convent, a con>
firmation of their then possessions, with what might afterwards be- given
to them ; and enjoined that none of the professed religious should depart
without license, exempting them, as usual, from paying tithe for what they
occupied or tilled at their own costs; which Pope Lucius HI., in 1185,
confirmed to Agnes, Prioress of Sinningthwaite, prohibiting any one firom
committing theft within their cloisters or granges. Pope Gregory VIH.
likewise confirmed the above ; and King Heniy 11. confirmed the founder's
donation. The Priory possessed considerable lands, rents, &c. in the county,
and the advowson of the church of Bilton. At the Dissolution its revenues
were of the clear annual value of £60. Os. 2d. ; and the site was granted in
1589 to Sir Thomas Tempest, Ent The remains of this establishment, now
a farm house, are moated round, and enclose about eight acres. The house
is principally built of stone, and in the north front is a circular arched door-
way, with chevron and flower mouldings resting on cylindrical columns, with
leaved capitals. The windows are of more modem workmanship, being
THE ATN'STY WAPENTAKE. 655
square-headed, of four lights. A small close on the north side, called Chapel
Garth, is the site of the chapel and burial-ground of this conyent The
estate was formerly the property of Lord Wharton, who left it in the hands
of trustees for the support of a Bible charity.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, in the peculiar jurisdiction of the
Dean and Chapter of York, and in the patronage of the Prebendary of Bilton
in the Cathedral church of York, valued in the King's Books at £8. 168.,
and now worth about £130. per ann. Allotments of land were assigned in
lieu of tithes, for the township of Bilton, in 1776. The adyowson was
granted by Gundreda, the daughter of Bertram Haget, to the above-mentioned
nunnery founded by her father. In 1203 the Prioress and Convent submitted
this church, with aU their right to the same, to the ordination and disposition
of Thomas Eomayne, Archbishop of York, who, in the year 1300, founded a
new prebend in the Cathedral of York, to which this church was annexed.
The Rev. George Mackereth is the present incumbent.
The Church (St Helen) is an ancient edifice, comprising a nave and side
aisles, a chancel and south aisle, a chantry chapel on the north side, and an
ancient porch on the south side of the nave. The exterior and interior arches
of the latter appendage are circular, and rest on columns. The south side of
the nave has three square-headed windows, and the remainder of the church
has several windows of various forms. The north side of the chancel has
some very curious sculptured blocks, one represents a man carrying a pig,
and other grotesque heads. The interior is neat; three circular arches,
resting on cylindrical pillars, with octagonal capitals, separate the aisles from
the nave. The chancel arch is circular ; and the chapel, which is raised
above the rest of the church, is separated fix)m the chancel by a pointed arch.
In one of the aisles is a full-length effigy of a lady, supposed to be of the 14th
century. This figure formerly occupied a different situation.
The Village is small and straggling, and is situated about five miles E.N.E.
of Wetherby, and nine miles W. by S. of York — a litde off the road between
these two places.
The Wedeyan Chapel was built by subscription in 1845, on land given
by Mr. Thomas Skilbeck. The School, erected by Hall Plumer, Esq., in
1805, is supported by subscription, and by an annuity of £6. from Lady
Hewley*8 charily, for which ten children are taught free.
Bilton HaU, the property of Andrew Montague, Esq., and the residence
of the Rev. T. Jessop, D.D., Vicar of Wighill, stands about a quarter of a
mile west of the village, and is a fine square built edifice.
Bi4:kerton Township formerly belonged to Bryan Rocliffe, a Baron of the
050 THE A1N3TY WAPENTAKE.
Exchequer ; it is now the property of Andrew Montague, Esq. Area of the
township, 1,080 acres ; rateable value, £1,155. ; amount of assessed property,
£915. ; population in 1851, 131 sods.
The Village is small, and stands about 3^ miles E.N.E. of Wetherby, and
H mile N.W. of Bilton. The river Nidd winds its very devious course at
a short distance north of it The Manor Haute, now a &rm house, in the
occupation of Mr. Andrew Webster, is situated at the west side of the village,
and appears to have been moated in ancient times. There is here a small
Methodut Chapd, which was erected in 1820.
Taekwith Township extends over an area of 1,010 statute acres, and is chiefly
the property of A. Montague, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), the trustees of
Messrs. J. Thackeray and Thos. N. Jackson, Mr. Robert Brogden, Mr.
Robert Fawcett, Mr. William Wilstrop, Mr. Joseph Fowler, Mr. Hugh
Wilson, Mr. R. Skilbeck, Mr. William Green, and Mr. Matthew Thomlinson.
The amount of assessed property in the township is £d,lG8., and the popula-
tion in 1851 was 500 souls. Before the year 1114, Jefiiy Fitz-Pain gave the
chapel of All Saints, with two oxgangs of land here, to the Priory of Nostell,
in the Deanery of Pontefract, which grant was confirmed by King Henry I.,
and some of the Black Canons of that monastery were sent to reside here, and
form what was called a cell to the northern house. The yearly revenues of
this cell at the Dissolution in 1585, were valued at but £8. per ann., and the
site of it was granted in 1541 to Thomas Leigh. Skew Kirk, now a farm-
house occupied by Mr. Henry Tennant, is the site of this religious establish*
ment The house, which is deUghtfiilly situated on the south bank of the
Nidd, has been rebuilt, but it retains many marks of its antiquity. A lancet
window bears the date of 1718, and a stone coffin and some ancient carved
stones are built into a well on the premises. A sword is preserved here,
which is said to have been left in this house by a knight who slept in it after
the battle of Marston Moor, the house and estate being then the property of
an ancestor of Mr. Tennant
The Village, which is neat and well built, is situated about a mile south of
the river Nidd, about 8i miles W. of Yorii, 5} N.E. of Wetherfoy, and 9 N.
of Bilton. At the &mous battle of Marston Moor, the front of the Parlia-
mentarian army extended as &r as this village. (See page 945.) There is
a veiy large tree now growing in Tockwith, which measures twenty-seven feet
in ciroumference. The Wesleyans have a good-sized chapel here, which was
erected in 1798, at a cost of about £600. The tithes were commuted for
land and money payments at the indosure in 179d.
At Cawthorpe, or CoUharpe, in this neighbourhood, at a short distance
THE AINbTY WAPENTAKE. 057
from the church of that place, are the remains of a gigautic tree, called Cove-
thorpe Oak, and sarpassing in size the famous Greendale Oak at Wdbeck,
Notts. Its circumference, close to the ground, is about 60 feet, and its
principal limit extends 45 feet from the bole. The leading branch was pros-
trated by a storm in 1718 ; and when entire, its branches are said to haye
overspread an acre of ground. Its trunk is now quite hollow, and 24 persons
have sat down within it ; and there is standing room inside on the ground
for 40 men. It is considered to be about 1500 years old. '* When com-
pared to this," says a learned writer, " all other trees are but children of the
forest." Truly this venerable oak is unquestionably, in the words of Miss
Blakeston, *' a patriarch of the ancient forests of this country."
BisHOPTHOBPE. — This parish was formerly called Thorpe-uponrOuse, or
St. Andrew's Thorpe, from the dedication of its church, and obtained its
present appellation in the reign of Henry HI., when Walter de Grey, Arch-
bishop of York purchased the Manor, erected a mansion upon it, and annexed
it to ^e See of York, as an Archiepiscopal residence. The estate continued
in the possession of the successive Archbishops till the Eeformation ; when
both the house and Manor were sold to Walter White, Esq., for £625. 7s.
6d., and the former remained his seat till the Restoration. The area of the
parish is 760 acres; the amount of assessed property is ;£1,110., and the
population in 1851 was 406 souls. The Archbishop is Lord of the Manor.
The Church is a Dischai^ed Vicarage, rated in the Eing^s Books at £4.,
but now worth about ^6184. per annum. The church formerly belonged to
the Priory of St Andrew at York. The Archbishop is the present patron,
and the Vicar is the Rev. C. I. Smith. Archbishop de Grey founded a
chantry in this church (or, according to some historians, in the private chapel
of the palace), for the souls of King John and himself, and of all the faithful
deceased ; and endowed it with a yearly rent of £6. 14s. out of the manor
of Bishopthorpe. The Fabric (St. Andrew) was rebuilt in 1768, Archbishop
Drummond giving the timber for the edifice, and £660. as his contribution
to the work. He also gave the handsome pointed window of four lights at
the east end, which was removed from Cawood Castle, a former residence of
the Archbishops. The church having become dilapidated, it was extensively
repaired or restored in 1842, solely by the late Archbishop (Harcourt), at an
expense of about Jg 1,500. It is cruciform in shape, and is in the style desig-
nated Carpenter's Gothic. The interior is very neat, and the windows are
filled with stained glass. Archbishop Drummond is buried on the north
side of the communion table, and on the same side is a tablet to the Rev.
John Dealtry, nearly forty years Vicar of this parish, who died in 1797,
4 P
658 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
aged 89 years. The Vicarage House was considorablj enlarged in 1825.
Near the village is the Archiepiscopal Palace. At yarious times there were
palaces belonging to the See of York at Shirebum-in-Elmet, Cawood, Bipon,
Bcvcrlej, and Otley, besides that vrhich stood in the Minster Close (See
page 460), and the one we have now to notice — all in this county ; besides
mansions in SouthweU, in Nottinghamshire ; at Battersea, in Surrey ; and
at Whitehall and York Place, in London. Biskopthorpe Palace is a large
irregular building, with a rather picturesque appearance from the side of the
river Ouse.* It was, as we have already observed, built by Archbishop de
Grey in the 13th century, but it has since undergone so many alterations,
and 80 many additions have been made by subsequent prelates, that veiy
little of the original structure now remains. Archbishop Dawes considerably
improved it about the year 17 SO, and Archbishop Drummond greatly en-
larged it, and built the present front and entrance gateway, in 1763-6, with
stone brought from the ruins of Cawood Castle ; and it was enlarged and
much improved by the late Archbishop. The Chapd was built by Arch-
bishop do Grey, and is a good specimen of the Early English style. The
porter*s lodge or gateway exhibits the pointed style of architecture, and pre-
sents a very neat appearance. Over the gateway are the Arms of the Sec
and a clock, and the whole structure, which is embattled, is surmounted with
a handsome crocketcd turret and pinnacles. Within the gateway is a lai^e
grass plot, neatly laid out. The front of the venerable edifice is in the same
style of architecture as the gateway. The principal entrance is into a
spadons vestibule, by a handsome flight of stone steps, under a canopy, sup-
ported by light aiiy columns. The front is finished by an open battlement
of stone, and each extremity is decorated with the stone figure of an eagle.
The mansion has some fine apartments, the walls of which are bung wi^
portraits, amongst which are those of the Archbishops who have filled the
See since the Reformation. The Chapel, which adjoins the libraiy, is smaU,
but extremely neat and appropriate. The floor is of black and white marble,
and the wooden ceiling is in square compartments. In 1841 the edifice was
entirely repaired, when the ancient and curiously-carved oak pulpit was res-
tored to its original colour, by removing the white paint ; and the old high
and coloured pews were replaced by oak sittings. The windows are long
and narrow, except the one over the communion table, which is spacious ;
and they are filled with stained ^ass, executed by the late Mr. Peckitt, of
* A casix)m prevailed formerly with the sailors on board the trading brigs to fire three
ganB every time they passed ; a signal which was answered by a certain portion of ale
being distributed amongst them by order of the Archbishop.
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 659
York'; that at the cast end exhibits the Arms of the Archbishops from the
Reformation to the Revolution, impaled with those of the See. The pleasure
grounds, which are partly behind the mansion, and occupy about six acres on
the bank of the Ouse, are rather confined, but laid out, and planted with a
great variety of trees and shrubs, with considerable taste. The trial of
Archbishop Scrope took place in Bishopthorpe Palace, as already lelated at
page 148 of this volume..
The Village is small but pleasant, and is situated on the west side of the
river Ouse, about three miles S. by W. from York The National School was
rebuilt, and the schoolmaster's house restored, in 1846, at the sole cost of
Archbishop Harcourt, who at his death left the interest of £500. to the poor
of Bishopthorpe. The notorious Guy Fawkes is said to have been a native
of this place. (See page 637.)
Bolton Percy. — This parish, which is bounded on the S.W. by the river
Wharie, comprises the township to which it gives its name, as well as those
of Appleton-Roebuck, Colton, and Steeton. The entire parish contains 7,148
acres, and in 1851 its inhabitants numbered 705. The amount of assessed
property is £9,887. The area of the township of Bolton Percy is 9,170
acres; its population is S75 ; and the rateable value £4,053. ; assessed pro-
perty, £3,346. The soil is generally a strong clay, with portions of a lighter
kind, the surface is level, and interspersed with small plantations and woods.
The manor or township of Bolton Percy, or of Bodeltone as it is termed in
Domesday, anciently contained eight carucates, and was held by Robert de
Percy of the heirs of Henry de Percy, Baron of Topcliffe, who held it of the
King in capite, at the rent of four shillings per annum. King Edward I.
granted a license to Robert de Percy, to embattle his mansion house at Bolton.
A great part of a wood in this place was given by one of the Percys to the
building of York Minster. (See page 409.) The manor afterwards descended
to the Lords of Beaumont. King Edward 1. enriched Henry Lord Beau-
mont with many estates, and among other privileges he granted him a
charter of free warren in all his demesne estates here and elsewhere. Wil-
liam Viscount Beaumont, who had been a Lancastrian, and was taken
prisoner in Towton Field, in 1461 (See page 157), and attainted, but res-
tored to his titles and estates in the reign of Heniy VII., and died without
issue, was lord of this place. The manor of Bolton Percy now belongs to Sir
W. M. E. Milner, Bart., and the other chief landowners are Lord Londes-
borough, the Rector of the parish, and Mr. William Green.
The Church is a Rectory, valued in the King's Books, at £39. 15s. S^d.,
and in the parliamentary returns at £150.; net income £1,540. In the
660 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
reign of Henry I., Picot de Percy, gave the church of Bolton to the Canons
of St Oswald of Nostel, which grant was confirmed to them hy Henry I.
and n. It is now in the gift of the Archbishop of York, and the present
Rector is the Rev. Wm. Venables Vernon Harcourt, third son of the late
Archbishop. All tithes commuted in 1797. The present Edifice (All Saints
or St. Andrew's) was built by the Rector, Thomas Parker, who died in 1423,
and is the largest and best built church in the Ainsty. It consists of a nave
and aisles, a chancel and chapel on the north side, and a well-proportioned
tower at the west end, the whole of cut stone and in the Gothic style. Each
side of the nave is made into four divisions by handsome buttresses ; the
windows are of three lights, and the finish of the aisles is a parapet with
grotesque masks at the extremities. On the south side is a porch, chiefly of
wood, which is covered with ivy. The chancel, which is higher than the
nave, and apparently of later construction, is made into three divisions by
buttresses, which finish above the parapet, in pinnacles with crocketed caps
and finials. The east window is of five lights, and the windows of the sides
of the chancel are large, and of three lights each. On the apex of the roof
is a cross floiy. The interior is spacious and handsome, the nave is divided
from the aisles by four pointed arches, which rest on octagonal columns, and
the large chancel arch rests on three cylinders conjoined, with octagonal
capitals. The roof of the nave and chancel is timber, exhibiting a depressed
arch resting on plain blocks. The sedilia, on the south side of the commu-
nion table, is in a beautiful state of preservation, and the piscina is perhi^is
the most perfect and elegant in the county. The ancient stone altar was
used in flooring the church. The stained glass in this church is very
splendid. That beautiful article exhibits in the east window four fall-length
figures of Bishops, and St. Andrew in the centre, with the Royal Anns of
Old France and England, Percy, &c. A small organ was presented by the
Misses Milner, in 1847. The font is circular, with a curious cover of
wood. The monuments are numerous, and there are several to the families
of Fairfax and Milner. Amongst those to the former family is a handsome
one attached to the east end of the south aisle, consisting of two Corinthian
columns supporting an arched pediment, and bearing a long Latin inscription
to the memory of the celebrated Parliamentarian General, Lord Ferdinando
Fairfax, who died in 1647, aged 64. The chantry chapel, in which is a
piscina, is now used as a vestry, and the tower contains a clock and three
good bells.
The Village is small and scattered, and stands about four miles E. by S.
of Tadcaster. Tiic North Eastern Railway passes through the parish, and
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 661
has an intermediate station near the village. This station is 7 miles 40
chains from York. The School near the church was erected in 1790, and is
chiefly supported hj subscription. The poor have the interest of about
£630. left by several donors.
BoUon Lodge, the residence of Geo. Hamilton Thompson, Esq., Lieut-Col.
of the regiment of East York Militia, is a good mansion pleasantly situated.
Appleton-Boebttck Toumship comprises an area of 2,780 acres, and a popu-
lation of 638 persons. Its rateable value is £3,593., and the amount of
assessed property is £3,5/20. William Lord Latimer, who was summoned to
Parliament from the 43nd of Edward IH. (1369), to the 3rd of Richard 11.
(1400), died possessed of this manor, leaving it, with his other estates, to his
only daughter and heir, Elizabeth, the wife of John Lord Nevile, of Raby.
The township now belongs to Sir W. M. E. Milner (Lord of the Manor),
and a few freeholders.
The ViUage, which is scattered, lies in the vale of a rivulet nearly two
miles N.E. of Bolton Percy ; nearly eight S.S.W. of York ; one W. of the
North Eastern Railway ; six E. from Tadcaster, and about one and a half
from each of the rivers Onse and Wharfe. The Wesleyan Chapel in the
village was erected in 1818, at a cost of £500., and is a neat square brick
building. The National School was built by subscription in 1817, and is
chiefly supported by the Rector of the parish ; and the Infant School was
erected in 1841, by the Misses Milner, by whom it is solely supported, in
memory of the day on which the present Sir W. Milner attained his miyority.
Nun-AppleUm Hall is situated in this township, about one mile and a
quarter from the village of Appleton. It occupies the site of a Priory for
nuns of the Cistercian Order, which was founded by Adeliza or Alice do St.
Quintin, in the latter part of the reign of King Stephen ; or according to the
Harleian MSS., by Adeliza and her son Robert, in the 5th of King John
(1S04.) It was endowed with considerable lands, and was dedicated to " God,
St. Mary, and St. John the Evangelist, in pure and perpetual almes." The
clear annual income of this establishment at its dissolution in the reign of
Henry VLLl., when it consisted of a prioress and eighteen nuns, was £73. 98.
lOd. Tanner says the site of this Nunnery was granted in 154S, to Robert
Darknall ; but among the abstracts of rolls called Originalia, the homages of
Quido and Thomas FairfiELx are recorded for the house and site. Another
grant of the same is recorded, in the new edition of the Monasticon, to Sir
William Fayrfax, Knt, and Humphrey Shelley. Upon tliis site Thomas
Lord Fairfax built a handsome house (in which he died), which, with the
estate, was purchased by Mr. Alderman Milner, a merchant of Leeds, who,
663 THE AIN8TY WAPENTAKE.
upon the marriage of his son, Sir William Milner, Bart., created in 1716,
settled it upon him and his son. It is now the seat of Sir William Mordaunt
Edward Milner, the 5th Baronet, who succeeded to the title and estates on
the death of his father, on the 34th of March, 1855. The present Baronet,
who is now one of the representatives of the city of York in Parliament, was
horn at Nun-Appleton, on the 30th of June, 1830 ; married in 1844 the
third daughter of Frederick Lumley, Esq., of Tickhill Castle, in this county,
niece of the fourth Earl of Scarhorough. The mansion is a large and hand-
some edifice, situated in a picturesque spot, and surrounded by an extensiyc
and well wooded park. The house, gardens, and pleasure grounds, have
been considerably improved by the late Baronet. The flower garden with
its beautiful walks, elegant arbours, splendid parterres, and charming lake
covered with rare aquatic plants, is a great object of interest. The park
displays much interesting scenery.
In the same township is an ancient house and farm called Woolas, now in
the occupation of Mr. William WiLstrop, which appears to have been a place
of consequence at an early period. The moat, with which the building was
surrounded, may yet be traced.
ColUm Township extends over 1,139 acres, the property of Wm. Sawrey
Morritt, Esq., of Rokeby (Lord of the Manor), and a few freeholders. The
amount of assessed property is £1,630. ; rateable value, £3,383. ; and in 18ol
it contained 144 inhabitants, The Village is small and scattered, and stands
3J miles N.E. of Bolton Perey, and 6i S.W. of York. The township is
intersected by the North Eastern Railway. The School was endowed by
Mr. Morritt with £4. per annum.
Colton Lodge, the residence of Captain T. C. Stuart, is a good house near
the village.
Steeton Township contBons 1,069 acres, and 77 inhabitants; the amount
of assessed property is £1,383. There is no viUage, but there are fifteen
inhabited houses scattered over the township, and the place is about 3 miles
N.W. of Bolton Percy, 7 S.S.W. of York, and 3i E. by N. of Tadcaster.
This place anciently belonged to the family of De Steeton, and it became
afterwards the seat of Sir Guy Fairfax, Knt, one of the Judges of the King^s
Bench in the times of Edwurd lY. and Henry VII., and it has ever since
continued in the younger branch of that family, The remains of Steeion
Hall, the once splendid mansion in which the Fairfax family dwelt for ages,
now consists of the centre of the building, which formerly had wings, and a
small chapel. The hall is now in the occupation of a farmer, and the chapel,
which is of very early erection, is now used as a granary. '* This mansion,
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 003
until lately," says Allen, who wrote in 1829, "contained the sword and
chair of the great Lord Fairfax, which were removed by Mr. Fairfax to his
seat " at Newton-Kyme.
Streethouses is a hamlet partly in the township of Steeton, and partly in
the parish of Bilbrough, 3 miles N.E. of Tadcaster. This hamlet took its
name from its vicinity to the Roman road from York to Tadcaster.
CoPMANTHORPE. — The chapclry of Copmanthorpe and the township of
Holdgate, though locally situated in the Ainsty Wapentake, are parts and
parcels of the parish of St. Mary, Bishophill Junior, in the city of York.
The area of the township is 1,610 acres; its rateable value is i64,676.; and
the population in 1851 was 316. The North Eastern Railway passes through
the township, and there is a small station on that line, near the hamlet.
The principal landowners are F. H. Wood, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), Yar-
burgh Yarburgh, Esq., Mr. Richard Bean, and Mr. Robert. Lofthouse.
The Village stands about 4 miles S.S.W. of York, by road, and 3 miles
54 chains by railway. Adjoining the hamlet is a field called TempU Field,
in which, according to tradition, anciently stood a temple, but of what des-
cription, or to whom dedicated, there is no record ; but stones, evidently
once parts of pillars, and other curiosities, have been found in the field and
in the fields adjoining ; and similar ones appear also in the walls of some of
tho oldest houses. The township is called Temple Copmanthorpe in old
documents. The Chapel is a plain oblong stone building, with a bell turret.
A faculty was granted in 1750, for inclosing a chapel yard as a place of
interment. The tithes were commuted a few years ago for i6498. 16s. ; of
which, £430. for the great tithes, are payable to the Dean and Chapter of
York, and J668. ISs. to the Vicar of the parish, for the small tithes ; tho
former having also a glebe of /25 acres, and the latter a glebe of one acre.
The School is endowed with J64. per annum.
HoldgaU or Holgate Township lies on tho western side of tho Ouse, and
forms a suburb of the city of York. Its area is d50 acres; rateable value,
£962. ; population, 134. The York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway inter-
sects the township. The Hamlet is small, and is situated about one mile
W. by S. of York. A bridge was erected over the rivulet here in 1824, and
in the house near the bridge long resided, and died in 1896, Lindley Murray,
the celebrated grammarian. (See page 641.) Between Holgate and Acomb
are very extensive nursery grounds belonging to Messrs. James Backhouse
and Son ; and about a mile from Holgate is Scverus* Hill, long popularly
considered to have been a mound made by the Romans, in memoiy of the
Emperor Severus. (Sec page 68.)
064 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
Upper Poppleton, another out township in the parish of St Mary, Bishop-
hill Junior, will be noticed at a subsequent page.
MiddUthorpe is an out township in the parish of St Mary, Bishophill
Senior, York, situated on the west bank of the river Ouse, about 2 miles
S.W. from York. Its area is 607 acres, and the number of its inhabitants
in 1851 was 88. Middlethorpe Hall, a fine mansion, is now in the occupa-
tion of the Misses Walker ; Middlethorpe Lodge is the residence of James
Meek, Esq.; and the Manor House is occupied by Henry Tower, Esq.
Leaden bullets and a steel breast-plate were dug up in this township in 1812.
. Healauoh. — The lands of this parish anciently belonged to the Priory of
Healaugh Parky which was established here at an early period. From the
first charter of its foundation 'it appears that before the year 1203, Bertram
Haget gave to Gilbert, a monk of Marmonstier, cmd to his successors, " the
lands of the hermitage or desert which is in the wood of Healaugh, viz. : —
that land toward the east where the water is wont to run and passe from the
bridge called Lairbridge, to the passage anciently called Sangneat," in order
to found a religious house. A church, dedicated to St John the Evangelist,
was then built on the site of the hermitage, and some religious persons were
fixed here by Jefiery Haget, son of Bertram ; and about the year 1218, a
Priory of regular Black Canons was established and endowed on the same
foundation, by Jordan de S. Maria, and Alice his wife, who was grand-
daughter to Bertram Haget. Edward 11. granted to the Prior, free warren
in all his demesne lands in Healaugh, Wighall, &c. The possessions of the
Priory principally laid in the vicinity of the house. At its suppression, in
the reign of Henry Vlll., here were fourteen canons, whose revenues
amounted to £86. 5s. 9d., according to Speed. The site of the Priory was
granted, in 1540, to James Gage, Esq., who had a license in the same year
to alienate it to Sir Arthur D'Arcy, Knt., and his heirs, and it was afterwards
the residence of Lord Wharton. The present proprietor of the parish of
Healaugh is S. Brooksbank, Esq. Area of the parish, 2,800 acres ; popu-
lation in 1851, 223 souls ; assessed property, £4,461.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, valued in the King's Books at £6.,
but now worth nearly £100. The advowson was, previous to the Reforma-
tion, in the Prior of Healaugh Park, who presented as early as 1271. The
patron is S. Brooksbank, Esq., and the Vicar is the Bev. E. H. Brooksbank.
The Church (St John the Evangelist) is situated on the highest ground in
the neighbourhood, and appears to have been originally built about the period
of the Norman Conquest, but a great part of it was rebuilt nearly seventy
years ago. It is a neat edifice, and consists of a nave, chancel, and north
THE AIN8TT WAPENTAKE. 665
aisles, and a square tower at the west end. The latter appendage contains
three heUs, and is surmounted by a modem cross. On the south side of the
naye is a curious arched entrance of Saxon workmanship, in fine preservation,
consisting of four mouldings ; the inner one is plain, springing from square
capital and plain jamb ; the second, which rests on a square carved capital
and a circular column, has a fine series of beaked heads ; the third is com-
posed of human heads, grotesque figures, and masks, resting on a similar
column ; and the exterior one is a fine chevron moulding, rising from a square
jamb. The interior of the nave has all the characteristics of early Norman
architecture. In the aisle of the chancel is a handsome table monument of
alabaster, bearing the recumbent e£Bgies of a knight in plain armour, between
two ladies, representing Thomas, Lord Wharton, who died in 1566, and his
two wives. The Village, which is very neat and picturesque, is situated
about 3 miles N.N.E. of Tadcaster. Near the church are the square plinth
and octangular shaft of an ancient stone cross.
Healaugh HaU, the handsome seat of S. Brooksbank, Esq., is situated on
elevated ground in a well wooded park, on. the north bank of the Wharfe,
about d miles S. of the village, and one mile W. of Tadcaster. Healaugh
Manor House, the remains of the above-mentioned Priory, is now a farm
house, in the occupation of Mr. William J. Jackson. When perfect, this
house must have formed a spacious quadrangle, of which about three quar-
ters of the east side remain perfect. It is of two stories, with an embattled
parapet, and square-headed windows, of three lights each. The ancient
moat* encloses about three acres, and within it is another ^Eurm house, erected
about a quarter of a century ago, and occupied by Mr. William Jackson.
These houses, which are distinguished by the names of the East and West
Manor House, are situated about one mile S.W. of Healaugh.
Eibk-Hamhebtok. — This parish contains the townships of Kirk-Ham-
merton and WUstrop, which are divided by the river Nidd; the former
township is situated in the upper division of the Wapentake of Olaro, and
the latter in the Ainsty Wapentake. The whole parish contains d,018 acres,
of which about 60 acres are woodland, and of the remainder two-thirds are
arable, and one-third pasture; the soil is very rich. Amount of assessed
property, £9,100. Population in 1851, 378 souls, The area of Eirk-Ham-
merton township is 996 acres, the rateable value of which is £1,973. ; popu-
lation, 991. The principal landowners are Alexander Christie, Esq., James
Christie, Esq., Andrew Montague, Esq., and Messrs. W. Cass, E. Clark,
John Stephenson, and John Joliffe, the Lord of the Manor of this township.
The Ldving is a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of the Rev. Thomas White,
4 Q
606 THE AIN8TY WAPEMTAKB.
the Incumbent ; the income is about £150., and there is a good glebe house.
Tithes commuted in 1765. The Church (St John the Baptist) stands on a
considerable eminence, and is an ancient edifice, condsting of a nave, chanoely
north aisle, and a square tower. It was enlarged in 1885, at a cost of JglOO.
when eightj-fiye sittings were added.
The Village, which is small but clean, stands about 0^ miles N.W. of
York, and half a mile distant fix)m the road between York and Borough-
bridge. The scenery is picturesque, and the views extensive. The railway
from York to Enaresborough and Harrogate is but a short distance N.£. c^
the village.
WUstrop Township (in the Ainsty) contains l,Odd acres and 8d inhabitantB.
Andrew Montague, Esq., is the proprietor of the soil. Wilatrop, which
has no village, is situated about H miles W. by N. of Yoik. It adjoins
Marston Moor, the scene of the great battle between the Royalists and the
Parliament's party, in 1644 ; and the graves of the slain in that dreadfbl
conflict may yet be seen near Wilstrop Wood. (See page 240.) In cutting
down a part of this wood a few years ago, the workmen found several lead
bullets embedded in the trees ; and buUets, camion bslls, broken swords, and
horse shoes, have been frequently found in this locality.
WiUtrap Hall, an ancient mansion, which stands about d miles £• of the
parish church, is now a fiflifm house in the occupation of Mr. John Harrison.
The moat may yet be traced by which this house was surrounded.
Long Mabstom. — The townships of Long Marston, Angram, and Hutton-
Wandesley, are comprised in this parish. The area of the entiro pariah is
4,281 acres ; population in 1851, 609 souls ; amount of assessed properly,
£4,468. The township of Marston, of which Andrew Montague, Esq., is
chief proprietor, contains 2,540 acres, and 421 inhabitants. Rateable value,
J61,824. The surfEu^e is generally flat, and the soil is a stiff day alternated
¥rith portions of lighter quality. The Church is a Heotoiy, rated in the
King's Books at £24. Bs. 9d., present income about £865. Patron, Lord
Wenlock; Rector, Rev. Thomas Daynell. The Rectory House is a good
building. The tithes were commuted for lazid in 1766. "In the year
1400," says Allen, " a commission was granted to the parishioners, because
their old ohuroh was ruinous and far distant from their habitations, to trans-
late the same from that place to another chapel in the parish, and there to
build themselves a new church, provided that they kept enclosed the ceme-
tery where the old churoh stood."
The present Edifice is a plain building, in the Decorated English style,
comprising a nave, chancel, and north aisle, with a south porch and a square
THE AIKSTT WAPENTAKE. 607
west tower. The latter appendage, which contains three hells, is embattled,
and has crocketed pinnacles at the angles. Within the porch is a circular
arched doorwaj, and in the interior, the north aisle is divided from the body
bj three bold circular arches, resting on circular columns with square capitals.
The chancel and north aisle are divided by a pointed arch. " The existence
of the Norman circular arches in this building," writes Mr. Allen, " shows
that the parishioners retained a great portion of the former chapel, and that
they used their license to build a new church for the purpose of enlarging
the existing building, and converting it into a parish church." In the
chancel is a handsome monument, consisting of two recesses, with arabesque
work, to J. Thwaites, Esq., who died in 1603 ; and a handsome tablet to
Sir Percy Dawes, Bart., who died in 1733.
The Village, which is on the road from York to Wetherby, and which from
its length, being rather dispersed, is called Long Marston, stands about 7|
miles W. finom York. The moor near the village is the scene of a most
sanguinary battle, which occurred on the dnd of July, 1644, between the
army of Charles I. and the Parliament's forces, wherein the former were
totally defeated. (See page 344.) Bullets, cannon baUs, and other remains
of this desperate combat are occasionally turned up by the plough.
The WesUyan Chapel was erected in 1850, by subscription, at an expense
of about £300. The building is of brick and contains about 160 sittings.
The School is partly supported by an endowment of £10. per ann., and partly
by subscription. Other charities in 1836, £108. 18s. per ann., besides a
share of Christopher's Topham's charity for apprenticing children.
Angram Township contains 618 acres, of the rateable value of £875. ; and
the number of its inhabitants is 67. Lord Wenlock is the sole proprietor of
the soil. The Hamlet^ which consists chiefly of a few farm houses, stands
about 3 miles S.E. of Long Marston.
HuUof^Wandedey Townehip, which is also the property of Lord Wenlock,
extends over an area of 1,338 acres ; rateable value, £090. ; population in
1851, 131 souls. The Hamlet comprises a few houses between Long Marston
and Angram. Hutton HaU, the seat of the Hon. Captain Robert NeviUe
Lawley, is a fine brick mansion, apparently erected in the latter part of the
17th centuzy. The moat is visible on its north-east side.
Moor Momkton parish includes the townships of Moor Monkton and
Hessay ; its area is 4,380 acres, of which number 8,110 form the former
township ; population of the whole parish 431 souls ; population of Moor
Monkton only, 380. Rateable value of the latter place, £1,760. Assessed
property of the whole parish, £8,045. The river Nidd, at its confluence here
668 THE ATNSTT WAPEKTAKB.
with the Oase, forms the north-west boandaiy of the parish. The land is
chiefly arahle ; the soil is generally a strong day, and the surface is level.
This place anciently belonged to the fiAmily of Ughtred or Oughtre, but Sir
Charles Slingsby, Bart., is the present lord of the soil.
The lAving is a Rectory, valued in the Eong's Books at £16. 19s. 7d., and
in the patronage of the Crown. It is now worth about £700. per ann., and
the Hector is the Rev. H. W. Yeoman. The tithes were commuted in 1786.
The Church (All Saints) stands about three quarters of a mile south of the
village, and is an ancient edifice, having a nave, chancel, and south porch,
with a square tower of brick at the west end. In the west front of it is a
curious piece of sepulchral sculpture, representing a lady in a niche, and
before her a blank shield. The porch has a Norman entrance, and there is
a Norman window on the north side of the church ; the other windows are
square-headed. The interior of the church is plain, with no arch of separa-
tion between the nave and the chancel. The Rectory Home is situated about
a mile S. of the village, and is a neat modem brick building.
The Village is planted upon the southern bank of the river Nidd, about 6
miles N. W. of York.
Bed Hotise, the ancient seat of the Slingsby fiunily, is situated upon the
banks of the river Ouse, and is now in the occupation of Mr. Hops, farmer.
The house, of which only the centre remains, was built by Sir H. Slingsby,
in the reign of Charles I., and the chapel was built by his fieither. The chapel
is entire, and paved with Italian marble, and the east window is embellished
with painted glass. The view from the terrace is extensive. Red House
and Scagglethorpe (in this parish) were purchased about 156d by F. Slingsby,
Esq., of R. Oughtre, Esq., whose ancestors had resided in this neighbourhood
from the time of Edward m. The site of the mansion of this family is at a
small distance fix)m the west front of Red House.
Hessay Township contains 1,130 acres, and a population of 141 souls.
Amount of assessed property, £1,107. This place was given to the Abbey of
St. Mary at York, by Osbem de Archis, and continued in their possession till
the dissolution. It is now held by various proprietors. The moor was en-
closed in 1880. On the eve of the dreadful battie of Marston Moor, in 1644,
the forces of the Parliament were drawn up in battie array on Hessay Moor,
expecting to encounter Prince Rupert and the Royalists on their way to York.
(See page 348.)
The Village, which is neat and well-built, stands a litde to the S. of the
road from York to Knaresborough, about 6^^ miles W. by N. of the former
place. The School, which is supported by the Rector of the parish, is a brick
THE AJNSTT WAPSKTAXK. 669
building erected a few years ago by subscriptioii, aided by a government
grant. It is used as a Chapel of Ease on Sundays and holidays. There
is a residence for the teacher adjoining the school. The We$leyan Chapel in
the village was erected in 18S4, and is a small brick building.
Skipbridge is a small hamlet in this parish and that of Nun Monkton, and
is so called from the bridge — a neat stone structure of three arches — which
crosses the Nidd at this place.
P0PP1.ETON. — ^The parish of Nether or Water Poppleton lies on the west
side of the river Ure or Ouse, and contains 1,160 acres, of the rateable value
of about £1,800. The population in 1851 was 844 souls. Assessed property,
£1,74Q. The principal landowners are A. Montague, Esq. (Lord of the
Manor), Mr. Richd. Wamford, and Mr. Henry Simpson. The soil is various
but rich, except on the moorland, which is poor, and the scenery is pleasing.
The Living is a Perpetual Curacy, in the patronage of the Archbishop of
York, and incumbency of the Rev. G. J. Camidge. Annual income about
iS155. The Church (All Saints) consists of a nave and chancel, with a bell
turret, in which are two bells of reverberating sound. It was restored, except
the chancel, in 184Q, at a cost of about £400. Here are some monuments
to the family of Archbishop Hutton, who resided in this parish in 1620.
The Panonage House is a neat residence.
The ViUage is respectable, and stands near the river Ouse, about 4 miles
N.W. of York. The railway from York to Newcastle passes east of the
church, after which it crosses the Ouse on a bridge of three semi-elliptical
arches, thirty feet above the bed of that river. Prince Rupert, with a part
of his army, is said to have crossed the river at this place on his way to the
battle of Marston Moor, in 1644. (See page 244.) The Reform Methodists
have a place of worship here. The School is endowed with £6. 16s. 6d. from
Dodsworth's charity (See page 565), and is further supported by voluntary
subscription. The Manor House, built out of the remains of the ancient
seat of the Huttons, stands near the church, and is the residence of Mr.
Henry Simpson.
Ufpeb or Land Poppleton acljoins the last parish, and is a Chapelry
chiefly belonging to the parish of St Maiy, Bishophill Jun., York ; part of
the township is in Nether Poppleton. The area of Upper Poppleton is 1,840
acres; population, 415; amount of assessed property, £1,652. The lands
here formerly belonged to the Abbey of St. Mary, York, to which they were
given by Osbem de Archis, almost at its first institution. They now belong
chiefly to Andrew Montague, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), and Messrs. T.
Kirk, M. Richmond, J. Kirk, R. Hill, and R. Nelson.
670 THE AINSTT WAPENTAKE.
The Village contains a few respectable houses, and is situated aboat 3i
miles W.N.W. of York. The Chapel (All Saints) is a plain building, having
a naye and chancel. The Living is a Curacy, annexed to the Vicarage of
St. Maiy, Bishoplull Junior, York. The tithes for ihe manor of Poppleton
were commuted for land in 1769. There is a small Methodist Chapel here.
The Manor House is now a farm house, in the occupation of Mr. W. Fearbj.
HuFFOBTH. — The parish of Rufforth covers an area of d,4d0 acres, whareof
about three-fourths are arable, and the rest pasture, with a little woodland ;
the surfiEU^ is generally flat, and the soil of yarious qualities. The rateable
value is iS 1,469. ; the population, 999 souls ; and the amount of assessed
property, Jg2,998. The principal landowners are G. Marwood, Esq., the
Trustees of a Charity, Mrs. Siddall, the Earl of Harewood, J. N. Clayton,
Esq. (Lord of the Manor), T. Barstow, Esq., and A. Montague, Esq.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, valued in the Liber Regis at £4.
13s. 4d., but now worth about JSIOO. per ann. ; the patronage and impn^ri-
tion belong to Mrs. Thompson, and the Rev. — Watson is the incumbent.
The tithes were commuted in 1794. The Building (All Saints) is small and
mean, and comprises a nave and chancel, with a small wooden turret at the
west end, containing two bells. The brick porch on the south side was
erected in 1798, and within it is a circular headed doorway. The interior is
plain. The School is endowed with iS4. per ann., bequeathed by Dr. Colson.
TADCASTER.
Besides the town of Tadcaster, the parish comprises the townships of
Catterton, Oxton, and Stutton-with-Hazlewood. The town is divided by the
river Wharfe, and the parts are called Tadcaster East and Tadcaster West
The river Wharfe is the boundary of the Ainsty, and the parts of this parish
situated in that division of the county, are the townships of Tadcaster
East, Catterton, and Oxton. The area of the whole parish is 6,010 acrssy
and the population in 1851 was 2,979 souls. The town is comprised in
the townships of East and West Tadcaster ; the area of the former town-
ship is 555 acres, and that of the latter 1,470 acres ; the population of the
former is 834, and that of the latter 1,693. Total population of Tadcaster
town, 3,627 souls, viz. ; 1,237 males, and 1,290 females. The soil of the
parish is generally fertile, and the substratum abounds with freestone of
admirable quality. The principal land owners are Colonel Wyndham (Lord
of the Manor), Mrs. Bosquart, Mrs. Fletcher, Charles Shann, Esq., Mr. W.
Smith, and Mr. R. A. Bean. Assessed property in the parish, £10,061.
Tadcaster is supposed to have been the Roman station denominated Col-
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 671
caria, so named, it is conjectured, from the nature of tho soil, which abounds
with calx or limestone. The Britons, Saxons, and Northern English, after
the manner of the Latins, call the limestone Calc, and the Theodosian code
names the burners of lime Calcanenm ; so that it is not improbable that this
town had the name of Calcaria from the circumstance of the lime. There is
a hill near the town, called Kelh-bar, or Kelehar, which seems to retain some-
thing of the old name. The town stands near the great consular waj to the
chief mihtarj station of the Romans, Eboracum (York), and it is said to
have been considered bj that people as one of the outposts or gates of that
great station. Many Boman coins, urns, and other antiquities, have been
found here ; and Mr. Roach Smith has pointed out a very fine semi-circular
arched bridge over the little river Cock, near its entrance into the Wharfe,
about half a mile below Tadcaster, in the Roman road leading southward
from that town, which he considered aa undoubtedly Roman. The masonry
of the bridge is massive, and remarkably well preserved, and the stones are
carefully squared, and sharply cut, and on some of them the mason's mark R
is distinctly visible. The distance, too, of Tadcaster from York, exactly
agrees with that which is given by Antoninus, in his Itinerary. But Mr.
Dodsworth, and some other antiquaries, place the Calcaria of the Romans
higher up the Wharfe, at Newton Eyme, about H mile west of Tadcaster,
near St. Helen's ford, where Roman coins, and other relics of that people,
have been discovered. Indeed every argument urged in favour of Tadcaster
being the station, equally supports the opinion of its being at Newton Eyme.
Leland, in his Itinerary, says, " Tadcaster standeth on the nether ripe of
Wharfe river, and is a good thoroughfare. The bridge here over Wharfe
hath eight fisdr arches of stone. Sum say that it was last made of part of the
ruines of the old Oastelle of Tadcaster, a mighty great hill ; dikes and garth
of this Oastelle on Wharfe be yet seen a little above the bridge. It seemeth
by the plot that it was a right statelie thing. Tadcaster standeth a mile
from Watling Street, tendeth more to Caer luel, and crosseth or&t Whaife at
a place called St. Helen's forde, li mile above Tadcaster, and the other lipe
is St Helen's Chapel."
Oough, in his Additions to Camden, writes, *' Tadcaster is the outbounds
of the Ainsty, and may be said to be the very outport or gate of the city of
York ; the Ainsty reaches no further than the middle of Tadcaster Bridge.
Here seems to have been an ancient castrum, camp, or castle, in the time of
the Romans. The Saxons would probably call it BMd Cotter, and the more
modem Anglo-Saxons, T*aud CaUer, which is easily changed to Tadcaster;
and this I take to be the origin of the present name, and that it hath nothing
67d THE AINSTT WAPENTAKE.
to do with Calcaria. There is near the church great foundations of a Castle,
and the place is called Castle Hill." When eminent antiquaries differ in
opinion so widely, it is di£Eicult to speak with anj degree of certainty — ^but
to som up the whole, we incline to the opinion that Tadcaster is the site
of the Roman Station Calcaria.
Here, or at Newton Eyme, was a conyent, founded about the year 655.
Bede relates that Heina, the first female who assumed the habit of a nun in
this part of the country, retired to Caleaeester, where she built a residence.
In all the ci^il wars in England, Tadcaster was r^arded as a post of con-
siderable importance, and the possession of it was repeatedly contested.
During the struggle between Charles I. and his Parliament, in 1643, the
Earl of Newcastle, with 4,000 men, attacked the Parliamentarians at -this
place, which were commanded by Sir Thomas Fair&x. (See page 285.) Of
the ancient Castle, which stood near the church, and by which the place
was defended in feudal times, few remains are left ; but firom these remains,
and the appearance of the ground, it seems to have been a very large one,
and moated round. Some few vestiges of a trench may yet be discovered,
surrounding a part of the town.
Tadcaster is a market town, situated, as we have observed, upon the river
Wharfe, about 10 miles S.W. from York, 14 N.E. from Leeds, and 189
N.N.W. of London. The river is navigable up to the town for boats of about
100 tons burden. The bridge which crosses the Wharfe is of nine arches ; it
was rebuilt in the beginning of the 18ih centuiy, and is one of the finest in
the county.* The greater part of Tadcaster is on the south side of the river,
in the Wapentake of Barkston Ash.
The Taum is neat, well built, and pleasantly situated ; the streets, leading
respectively to the York, Fenybridge, and Leeds roads, are disposed in the
form of a cross. The principal street is very wide and pleasant, and the
whole is lighted with gas. The branch of the North-Eastem Railway from
Church Fenton to Harrogate passes by the west side of the town, where
tbere is a neat station, and the Bolton Percy station, on the main line, is
* The Wharfe runs very low here in diy seasons, which oooasioned the fiunous veraes
of Dr. Eades, afterwards Dean of Winchester, who, passing this way in the snimner
time, wrote a Latin distich, which, translated, rans thns : —
" Oar BniM in T»deasfer cmi flad no tiMme,
Bat a line teidge, and ondar it no i
The Doctor, however, retaming the same way in the winter, thas oommemorKtes the
altered scene >—
" Hit T«iM btfon on Tadcaster wMJoat,
Bat BOW gnat llooda wt tea, aad dirt fcr doat.*'
TU£ AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 678
about three miles east of it. There are flour mills on the banks of the riyer,
and several stone quarries in the neighbourhood, but there are no manufac-
tures carried on in the town, though it is well situated for that purpose. A
beautiful walk from the west side of the bridge leads to what is called Smmo's
Well, about 1^ mile from the town. The scenery along this walk, on the
margin of the stream, is truly delightful. The just-mentioned well was for-
merly much resorted for its medicinal properties, but now it is nearly filled
up and lost. An ancient £arm house, about a quarter of a mile distant from
the well, is called Smaw's or Small's Farm, and the rising ground upon
which it stands is called Smaw*s Hill. There was formerly a good weekly
market held here on Wednesdays, but it had DbJI^i into disuse. A couple of
years ago, a few spirited individuals exerted themselves to revive it, and thus
promote the general interests of the town. The market day was then
changed to Monday, and a fortnight fair established, for all sorts of cattle, on
alternate Mondays. These measures have been attended with considerable
success. There are also fsdrs, for cattle and sheep, on the last Wednesdays
in April, May, and October, and a statute fiur for hiring servants, in November.
Before the formation of railways, no fewer than twenty-sixr coaches passed
through this town daily, to and from London, Leeds, Harrogate, York, &c.,
besides a great number of waggons and carts. Three years after the opening
of the York and North Midland Railway (now the North-Eastern Railway),
there were only two coaches each way during the day ; a year or two later
they were discontinued altogether.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, formerly belonging to the Abbey of
SaUay, in Craven, but now in the patronage of Colonel Wyndham, and in-
cumbency of the Rev. Benjamin Maddock. It is valued in the Liber Regis
at £8. 4s. 9^., but is now worth about JSd40. per ann.
The Church (St. Maiy) is a handsome building, in the later English style,
apparently erected early in the 15th century, and consisting of a nave, side
aisles, chancel, and a western tower, which contains an excellent peal of six
bells, and a clock, with dials on three of its sides. In the west side of the
tower is a deeply-moulded circular^headed doorway, and above it a fine win-
dow of five lights. AH the windows of the tower are ornamented with
curiously carved figures ; on its south side are two large niches, and the top
is embattled and pinnacled. The south side of the church is in eight divi-
sions, having square-headed windows of three lights, the buttresses by which
the divisions are formed, terminating in gargoyles and pinnacles. The
clerestory has seven square-headed windows of three lights each ; the nave
is finished with a parapet, and the aisle is embattled. The north side of the
4 B
674 THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE.
church is plain. In die interior the nave is separated from the aisles by
pointed arches, and at the west end of the nave is a gallery and an oiigan.
Over the communion table is a large painting of the Last Supper of our
Lord. The church-jard, which had been partially open, was last year
enlarged, and entirely enclosed with a wall and iron palisades, and a hand-
some entrance erected. These improvements were effected at a cost of about
£350. raised by subscription.
The Wedeyan Chapel, High Street, is a large stone erection, built in 1828,
at a cost of about £3,800. It consists of a centre and two wings, the latter
being appropriated to the residences of the ministers. The Reform Metho-
dists occupy a chapel in Kirkgate, which originally belonged to the Primitive
Methodists, and afterwards to the Independents. The PrimUive Methodist
Chapel is a small plain building in Rosemary Row. The Inghamites have a
place of worship in Chapel Lane, erected in 1814. It is a square brick
building, and there is a small burial ground attached.
The Free Grammar School was founded and endowed with lands, and the
sum of £600., in 1668, by Dr. Owen Oglethorpe, Bishop of Carlisle,* and
confirmed by license in the 5th of Philip and Mary. The annual income is
about £120., for which as many boys as present themselves are taught free,
not only grammar, but arithmetic, &c. The Rev. W. C. Bellhouse is the
present master. The school house and residence of the master is a large
stone building adjacent to the church, and near it are four almshouses
founded by Dr. Oglethorpe.
Mrs. Henrietta Dawson bequeathed funds for twenty annuitants, viz. : —
ten widows to receive £15. each, and ten spinsters to receive £10. each, with
an allowance of about £3. each for the entire number for coals and rent.
She left also £20. per annum for the instruction of forty poor children, to be
taught by four of the above-mentioned annuitants ; but those persons not
being competent to perform this condition, the forty children, and about
twenty ethers, are taught in the same building as the Grammar School, by
competent teachers. This is called Mrs, Datcson's Charity School,
The National School, Church Street, is held in a commodious brick building,
erected by subscription in 1788, for a Sunday School in connexion with the
established Church, and endowed in 1835, with £15. per annum, by Miss
Mary Hill, who died in 1839. This building is reputed to be the first that
was built expressly for a Sunday School. The Mechanics* InsHhOe, established
• This prelate, who was a native of Newton Kyme, crowned Queen Elizabeth, the See
of Canterbuxy being vacant, and Dr. Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, having re-
fused to do it He was aflenrards deprived of his See for adhering to his -^-'^ —
BABK8T0K ASH (PART OF) WAPENTAKE. 676
in 1849, is held in a neat stone building. Lord Londesborough is the
president, uid Rev. W. C. Bellhouse, treasurer.
In 1714 Henry O'SiyeU) the last Earl of Thomond, in Ireland, was
created Baron and Viscount Tadcaster, but dying without issue in 174d,
the title became extinct Dr. Charles Hague> a celebrated professor and
composer of music, was bom here in 1769, and died in 1821 at Cambridge,
of which University he was professsor of music.
Longevity. — John Shephard died here in 1757, aged 109 years; and
William Hughes, in 1769, aged 127 years.
Catterton Township lies on the north side of Tadcaster, and contains 712
acres and 50 inhabitants. It is the sole property of S. Brooksbank, Esq.
The amount of assessed property is £948. There is neither a place of wor-
ship or a school in the township. The Hamlet consists of a few meanly-
built houses, situated about 3 miles N.E. of Tadcaster.
Oxton Township contains 655 acres, and a population of 55 souls. Asses-
sed property, £1,434. The chief proprietors of the soil are Lady Arabella
Ramsden and Lord Londesborough. The Hamlet of Oxton is small, and
stands 1^ mile E. of Tadcaster.
OxUm HaU, the seat of Lady A. Ramsden, is a fine mansion, situated in
a park on the north bank of the Wharfe, about 1 mile E. of Tadcaster.
BARKSTON ASH (part of) WAPENTAKE.
The other township in the parish of Tadcaster (Stutton-with-Hazelwood),
as well as the greater part of the town of Tadcaster, is, as we have already
stated, in Barkston Ash Wapentake, and as there are a few other very in-
teresting places in this neighbourhood, we shall notice them here, though
they are not situated within the district to which this volume is devoted.
The area of Stutton-cum-Hazlewood township is 2,610 acres, and its
population is 347 souls. Amount of assessed properly, i62,110'. Sir E.
Vavasour, Bart., is Lord of the Manor and proprietor of the whole.
Stutton Village, which is small, is situated about 2 miles S.W. of Tad-
caster, and near it is a station on the line of railway from Church Fenton to
Harrogate. Stutton Chrove, formerly the residence of Captain Markham, and
of R. Thomlinson, Esq., is now a Classical and Commercial Academy, con-
ducted by Mr. William Stacey, M.C.P. The house is surrounded by very
pleasant grounds, from which there are excellent views of the neighbourhood.
Hazlewoodf Hesslewood, or Haslewood, — This manor was held of William
de Percy, in the reign of William I. In the time of Henry II. it was
mortgaged to an opulent Jew of York, for the sum of J6350. This Jew made
676 BARKSTOK ASH (pART OF) W.VP£NTAK£.
a conveyance of his security to the Queen, in discharge of a debt which he
owed her; and John de Varasour redeemed it by paying the money. The
famous family of Vavasour took the name firom their office, havii^ been in
ancient times the King^s Vayasors or Valvasores. In the reign of Edward
I. William de Vavasour was summoned among the other Barons, to the
High Conrt of Parliament ; and in the same reign he obtained a licence of
the King to make a Castle of his Manor House in Hazlewood. In 1836,
this estate passed to Edward Marmaduke, second son of the sixteenth Lord
Stourton, who, having assumed the name and arms of Vavasour, was created
a Baronet in 18d8.
Sir Edward Vavasour, the second Baronet, and present proprietor of this
Manor, is son of the first Baronet, by the only daughter of James Lane Fox,
Esq., of Bramham Park. Ho was bom at Bramham Biggcn, in 1815, and
succeeded his father in 1847. His heir presumptive is his brother William,
who was bom in 1822, and married, in 1846, the second daughter of the
seventh Lord Clifford.
" Hesselwood," writes Gent, "was once a wood indeed, incircliog its
pleasant edifice with the most delightful groves ; but now, being almost cut
down, and miserably destroyed, scarce retains ito name. Not far from hence,
near the spring head of the river Cock, stands Barwick-in-Elmet, which by
report, and as the ruins of its walls seem to testify, was the royal seat of the
Kings of Northumberland. ""1^ In this manor is the famous quarry which
supplied stone for the erection of York Minster, and also materials for its
repair after the conflagration in 1829. (See pages 409 and 416.)
Hazelwood Hall, or Castle, is a splendid old castellated edifice, delightfully
situated on an eminence, and famed for the extent and richness of its pros-
pccte. An old writer informs us that the Cathedrals of York and Lincoln,
though distant from each other sixty miles, may thence be discovered.* The
front of the mansion consiste of a centre and two wings, and the entrance
is approached by a large flight of stone steps. The entrance hall, which
measures about 50 feet by 80 feet, is a magnificent apartment ; all round the
• G«nt'8 History of York, p. 33.
• Fuller tells us that when King Henry Vm. made his progress to York, in 1548, Dr.
Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, then attending him, affirmed to the King that within ten
miles of Hasslewood, the seat of the Vavasors, there were 165 Manor Houses of Lords,
Knights, and Gentlemen, of the best quality ; 275 several woods, some of whi^ oon-
tained 500 acres; 32 parks, and two chases for deer; 120 rivers and brooks, whereof
five were navigable ; 76 water mills ; 25 coal mines ; and 3 forges for making of iron.
And within the same limits as much sport and pleasure for hunting, hawking, fishing,
and fowling, as in any part of England. — Worthie* of England, p. 185.
BABK8T0K ASH (PART OP) WAPENTAKE. 677
walls a beautiful frieze is supported by fine fluted columns, and above the
frieze are shields emblazoned with the family arms. The ceiling of this and
those of the principal rooms are exceedingly rich in gilding and decoration.
The Hall is about three miles S.W. of Tadcaster.
The Chapdf dedicated to St. Leonard, is a venerable structure, erected by
Sir William de Vavasour, in 1286. Sir William, who died twenty-five years
later, left, by his will, his body to be buried in Novo CapeUa 8, Leonardi de
HesUwods, after commending his soul Deo et B. Maria Virgini. The building
stands on the west side of the mansion, and is made into four divisions by
buttresses, in three of which at each side are pointed windows of two lights
each ; the other divisions are occupied by a porch on the south side, and a
doorway, now blocked up, on the north side ; the space for the east window
is also built up. Over the porch is a statue of St. Leonard. The general
aspect of the interior is devotional ; the altar is very curiously carved and
gilded, and on each side are two Corinthian pillars, supporting a frieze and
pediment Above the altar is a fine painting of the Crucifixion ; and on a
side altar is a very elegant coloured statuette of the Blessed Virgin and infant
Saviour. Two of the windows are filled with stained glass. There is an
organ in the gallery at the west end. There are several ancient monuments,
and some neat marble tablets, to members of the Vavasour family ; also a
large and handsome brass effigy, under a Gothic canopy, to Sir E. M.
Vavasour, who died suddenly at Chanceux, in France, March 16th, 1847, in
his 6l8t year. Since the erection of this chapel it has always without inter-
mission been used for the celebration of the services of the Catholic Church.
The Very Rev. Robert Tate, D.D., is the priest of this mission. In the
burying ground, ao^oining the chapel, is an ancient sepulchral cross, as well
as some very neat tombstones.
On an eminence in this township, called Wingate HiU, is a large massy
stone cross, which was restored a few years ago at the expense of the Lord
of the Manor. The lower portion of the shaft of the cross is ancient, and
the upper part modem ; and at the intersection of the shaft and arms are
carved representations of the crown of thorns, and the nails with which Our
Saviour was fastened to the cross. On Bramham Moor, near Hazlewood, in
1408, Sir Thomas Rokeby, Sheriff of Yorkshire, defeated the Eari of North-
umberland (See page 149) ; and Towton Field, the scene of a dreadful battle
in 1461, is likewise in this neighbourhood. (See page 156.)
KiBKBT Whabfe. — ^This parish comprises the townships of Kirkby Wharfe,
Grimston, and Ulleskelf. The area of the whole parish is 8,189 acres, and
the population of it in 1851, was 70^ souls. Amount of assessed property,
678 BARKSTON ASH (PART OF) WAPEXTAK£.
£d,973. The parish is situated in the picturesque valley of Wharfdale, its
surface is undulated, and the sceneiy is pleasingly varied, enriched with
woods, and embraces many interesting features. The soil is extremely fertile.
Kirby WJiarfe Township includes the hamlet of North Milford, and com-
prises 1,240 acres, with a population of 103. The rateable value is d£l,8d4.
Lord Londesborough is the sole proprietor of the soil.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, in the patronage of the Prebendary
of Wetwang in York Cathedral ; and the Rev. John Ashford is the present
Vicar. It is rated at £8. 16s. 8d., and now worth about £130. per ann.
The Chxarch (St. John the Baptist) is an ancient structure, in the early
Norman style, with a tower of later date. The latter appendage is embattled,
and has crocketed pinnacles, and contains three bells. The other parts of
the edifice are a nave, chancel, side aisles, and south porch. The interior is
neat, and the Lord of the Manor's pew exhibits some very beautiM specimens
of carved oak. In the same pew is an ancient marble, with a representation
of the Wise Men's Offering, said to have been brought firom Rome by Lord
Howden ; and on the wall above is a neatly gilded tablet, containing a minute
description of our Saviour's person, copied from an ancient sculpture dis-
covered in some distant country, and set up here by Lord Howden.
The Village, which is small, stands on the south side of the Wharfe, about
2 miles E. of Tadcaster. A fair, formerly held in a field near the village, has
been removed to Tadcaster.
Milford, a division of the township of Kirkby Wharfe, is now divided into
three farms. Milford Hall, now a farm house, is an ancient square building.
Grimston Township contains nearly 850 acres according to local admea-
surement, but only 600 acres according to the parliamentary returns ; and
115 inhabitants. Rateable value, £l,d7S. ; assessed property, £1,457.
There is no village in the township, and Lord Londesborough is sole pro-
prietor of the soil, having purchased it of Lord Howden a few years ago ;
and the whole is occupied by the park and farm. Albert Denison Denison,
the first Baron Londesborough (created 1860), and the princely owner of this
and several other large estates in this county, is the second surviring son of
the first Marquis Oonyngham, by the eldest daughter of Joseph Denison,
Esq., of Denbies, Surrey. His lordship was bom in London, in 1805 ;
married, first in 1838, the fourth daughter of the first Lord Forester (she
died in 1841) ; and secondly, in 1847, the eldest daughter of Capt C. O.
Bridgeman, R.N. He assumed the name of Denison, in lieu of that of
Conyngham, in 1849, in compliance with the will of his maternal unde,
W. J. Denison, Esq. Lord Londesborough was for a short time Secretary of
BARKSTON ASH (PART OF) WAPEKTAKE. 079
Legation at Berlin. His lordship's heir is his son, the Hon. William Henry
Forester, who was horn in 1834.
Omnstofi Park, the heautiful seat of Lord Londesborough, is situated
about two miles from Tadcaster. The park comprises about 800 acres ; and
the surface is undulated, and richly wooded. Here indeed the visitor may
luxuriate amongst the lovely works of nature and of art. On an eminence,
not far from the Hall, is a high circular tower, erected by Lord Howden,
which is visible for miles around. In the grounds is an immense sycamore
tree, 100 feet high, under which is a tombstone, to the memory of ** Sal," a
&voaiite retriever belonging to Lord Londesborough, and near it a similar
tablet to the memory of another member of the canine species, the property
of Lady Howden. A large pond in the park contains a quantity of gold and
silver fish. The Emperor's Walk has on either side marble busts of the
twelve Caesars, and is terminated with a temple, enshrining a large bust of
Napoleon I. The pleasure grounds display the most extraordinary skill,
care, and taste. The fiower garden is elegantly laid out, and the rosary con-
tains a collection of no less than 500 different varieties of roses. Both are
adorned with many fine vases and pieces of beautiful statuary, and in the
rosary is a curious dial, telling the time at various places in Europe. This
dial, which stood at Londesborough for nearly a couple of centuries, has been
lately removed to its present position. The conservatory is filled with the
choicest exotics ; and the aviary contains a number of beautiful plumaged
birds from France.
The elegant mansion, which was rebuilt in 1841, is in the Grecian style,
with a beautiful portico of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a triangular
pediment Many of the apartments are very handsome, and highly deco-
rated ; the Yellow Drawing Room, a fine apartment, the ceiling of which is
superbly painted, contains an arm xhair, which once belonged to the Empress
Josephine ; four chairs, a couch, and a table, formed of ivory, presented to
Warren Hastings, on leaving India, by the native Princess ; and a curiously
carved ivory drinking cup, mounted with gold, once in the possession of
Martin Luther. The Blue Drawing Room contains, besides several fine
paintings by old masters, the silver knife, fork, and spoon, of Prince Charles
Stuart, "the Pretender;" a large quantity of magnificent jewelleiy, some of
which had been worn by the Bourbon family ; and a unique collection of
drinking vessels. But the chief attraction of the house is the costly and
magnificent collection of ancient armour, and of rare objects of vertu. The
walls of several of the apartments are thickly studded with swords, rapiers,
scymitars, Andrea Ferraras, daggers, dirks, guns, pistols, and other imple-
680 BAKKSTON ASH (PART Ok) WAPENTAKE.
ments of war. Amongst them may be noticed pistols and bullets £rom the
field of Waterloo ; gauntlets and a sword which belonged to Henry \JLLl. ;
helmets of the time of King John and Edward m., and one which belonged
to Charles I. ; Roman helmets and camp kettles ; executioners* swords from
Germany ; British arrow heads and celts ; the pistols of Marshal Ney ; gun-
powder of the time of Henry YIII. of England, from a cannon lately
recovered from the sea ; and the golden stirrups of the High Constable of
France of the reign of Henry VIII. of that country.
In the Asiatic Dining Room is a laige and superb collection of Indian
and Turkish weapons, made of or mounted with gold and silver, and spark-
ling with diamonds and other precious stones; including the swords of
Tippoo Saib, and other Indian, Afighan, and Turkish warriors, with their
fire-arms, chain mail, &c. In this room are the portraits of Lord and Lady
Loudesborough, by Grant, which were shown at the Great Exhibition of
1851, along with that of the late Mr. Donison, M.P. The greater part of
the contents of the armoury were collected by the late Lord Howden.
There is a Charity School at Grimston, supported by Lady Londesboiough;
the children are also partly clothed by her Ladyship.
UUeskelf Township contains 1,299 acres, of the rateable valuable of £2,450.
The Lord of the Manor is Lord Loudesborough, and the township belongs
to his lordship and a few freeholders. Population, 485. The common was
enclosed in 1838, and the soil is generally fertile. The VUlctge stands about
4 miles S.E. from Tadcaster. The North Eastern Railway, after being
carried across the Wharfe by a narrow viaduct of nine arches, 274 feet in
length, intersects this township, and has a station near the village, 8 miles
54 chains from York.
Saxton. — ^The township of Saxton-cum-Scarthingwell and that of Towton
form the parish of Saxton, the entire area of which is 4,022 acres, and popu-
lation, 493 persons. Amount of asssessed property, £3,677. The area of
the former township is 2,662 acres; the population, 871 souls; and the
rateable value, £2,569. The principal landowners are Lady Ashtown and
Mrs. Gkscoigne (daughters and coheiresses of Richd. Oliver Gascoigne, Elsq.,
of Farlington); Lord Hawke/Womersley ; H. C. Maxwell, Esq.; and Mr.
Benjamin Bean. The manorial rights belong to Lady Ashtown. The land
is generally in good cultivation, and there are some quarries of stone for
building. The Hall or Manor House, formerly the seat of the Hungate
family (anciently the owners of this parish), was pulled down about fifty ^ears
ago, and the present building (now a farm house) erected on its site.
The Benefice is a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of Lady Ashtovm, and
BARKSTON ASH (PART OF) WAPENTAKE. 681
incumbency of the Rev. John Carter, D.D. Its value is about £S0, per ann.
The Fabric of the church (All Saints) is small and ancient, in the Norman
style, and comprising a nave, chancel, and a neat tower, in which are three
bells. It contains some monuments to the Hungate and Hawke families.
As has been already observed in the account of the battle of Towton at page
160, the Earl of Westmoreland, according to Leland, was buried in this
churchy where, however, he has no distinguishable memorials, and in the
church yard were interred many of those slain in that sanguinary conflict.
The " meane tomb *' of Lord Dacre, noticed by Leland, is on the north side
of the church-yard, and consists of a plain low table monument, the rim of
which bears the following inscription (according to Drake) in Old English
letters, now much defaced : — Hie Jacet Rantdpktis Ds. de Dacres et miles et
occians erat in heUo Principe VL Anno D. MCCCCXLI. xxix. Die Martii
videlicet dominiea die palmar um cujus animcs propitietur Deu9 Amen.
The Parsonage House is a handsome building in the Elizabethan style.
The ViUagef which is small but neat, is situated about 4 miles S.W. of
Tadcaster. The Chapel for Methodists was erected in 1887 ; and a School,
whicb, with the exception of one penny a week, which the children pay for
the use of books, &c,, is supported by Lady Ashtown and Mrs. Gascoigne.
ScarthingweU Hail, now the seat of Henry Constable Maxwell, Esq., but
formerly that of Lord Hawke, the former having purchased this estate of the
latter in 1848. The park is well wooded, and consists of 160 acres, walled
around, and the mansion is pleasantly situated in it, at the distance of about
4 miles S. of Tadcaster. A short distance from the hall is a fine sheet of
water, covering sixteen acres, which is well stocked with fish. In the centre
is a small island, upon which there is a heronry. Adjoining the hall is a
beautiful Catholic Church, which was erected by Mr. Maxwell, in 1854, at
an expense of about iS4,000. The edifice, which is of stone, is 98 feet long,
34i feet wide, 37 feet high, and will seat about 950 persons ; there is a
complete internal access to it from the haU. It is dedicated to God, in
honour of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin, and of St John
of Beverley. The style of the building is chiefly of the Byzantine style, but
much of it has been copied from the Royal Chapel at Munich. The exterior,
with its neat porch and bell turret, has an elegant but substantial appearance,
and the interior is very chaste and neatly finished. The altar, reredos, and
tabernacle, are of Caen stone, very sumptuously carved. The front of the
altar is in three compartments, the centre one bearing the representations of
a lamb and cross, in a circle, around which are vine branches, bearing clusters
of grapes, entwined with ears of wheat The other divisions have each the
4 s
6d^ BAHKSToX ASH (FAR! Of) WAPENTAKE.
Sacred Heart, one of which is surmouutcd bj a cross, and the other pierced
with a sword, and glowing or burning with love. The angles of the taber-
nacle arc supported bj two twisted columns, upon which are placed two full
length figures of angels, with expanded mngs. The reredos exhibits on its
front, circles containing elegantly carved emblems, monograms, &c. Around
the apse or semicircle, which forms the sanctuary, are seven single lights,
filled with stained glass (by Wailes), five of which contain fifteen subjects
from the life of our Lord and the Blessed Virgin. The roof of the sanctuary
is groined, and at the meeting of the spandrils is a circle, in which is a carved
dove with expanded wings. The floor within and in front of the sanctuary,
as well as the space in the centre between the two lines of open seats, are
laid with encaustic tiles. The altar balustrade consists of twisted columns
and circular arches. The roof of the body of the building is semicircular,
and its mouldings and other decorations arc exceedingly chaste and elegant,
as are also the decorations of the walls. The organ gallery, and the space
beneath it at the west end, forms a sort of ante-chapel ; this part is laid with
encaustic tiles. The organ is a very powerful instrument. The vestry is on
the south side of the church. On the occasion of the opening of this place
of worship, in the beginning of June, 1854, there was a grand assembly of
nearly fifty priests, headed by His Eminence Cardinal Wiseman, and the
Right Rev. Dr. Briggs, the Catholic Bishop of Yorkshire, as well as of the
elite of the Catholic nobility and gentry of the county. There was solemn
High Mass sung upon the occasion, and the sermon was preached by Car-
dinal Wiseman. The Rev. Charles A. O'Neill, is the chaplain.
Towton Toimship contains 1,360 acres, and 122 inhabitants. Amount of
assessed property, £1,037. Lord Hawke is chief proprietor of the soil, and
Lord of the Manor. The lands are fertile and in good cultivation, and the
surrounding scenery is of a pleasing character.
The Village is very small, and stands about 2| miles S. of Tadcaster.
This township is memorable as the scene of a.terrible battle fought between
the houses of York and Lancaster, in 1461. (See page 156.)
Towton HcUl, an ancient mansion, was repaired and beautified about the
year 1790. Lead Hall, formerly called Lcod or Lede, is situated on the
bank of the small river Cock, and was one of the seats of the ancient fomily
of De Tyas, several of whom are buried in the small but antique chapel
adjoining.
Bramham. — This parish comprises the townships of Bramham-cum-Ogle-
thorpe and Clifibrd-cum-Boston, and covers altogether an area of 5,462 acres.
Assessed property, £5,433. ; rateable value, £5,140. Principal landowners,
BARKSTON ASH (PART Of) WAPENTAKE. 683
George Lauc Fox, Esq., Lady Headley, and Rev. B. Eamonson. Lord of
the Manor, F. F. Gascoigne, Esq., of Parlington. The acreage of the first
mentioned township is 3,971, and its population, in 1851, was 1,318 souls.
Bramham Moor occupies a high plain, rising by a gentle acclivity from
Bramham, and on it are several vestiges of the Roman way, Watling Street,
from which consular road came divers via vicinalesy by Thomer and Shad-
well, through Street Lane and Hawcaster-rig, to Addle. Leland in his MS.
Itinerary, tells us, that he never saw in any part of England so manifest a
token as here, of the large crest of the way of Watling Street. From the
middle of Bramham Moor is an extensive prospect of a well cultivated district,
which aboimds also with freestone, limestone, and coal."^ Some ancient
brass instruments have been found here. Queen Anne gave a plate of gold
of horses in Yorkshire. On this common, in 1408, Sir Thomas Rokeby,
to be run for by horses on this moor, that she might encourage the breed
Sheriff of Yorkshire, defeated the Earl of Northumberland, thereby helping
to secure the crown to Henry IV. (See page 149.) A large portion of
Bramham Moor is still unenclosed.
The Living is a Discharged Vicarage, valued at £0. 7s. 6d., but now worth
about £160. per annum. Patrons, the Dean and Canons of Christ Church,
Oxford ; Vicar, Rev. John Young Seagrave. The Church (All Saints) is an
ancient and elegant structure, in the Decorated English style, consisting of
a nave and aisles, chancel, south porch, and a square embattled Norman
tower, surmounted by a spire at the west end. The tower contains three
bells. The church was restored in 1853-4, at a cost of about £1,160., raised
chiefly by subscription. Both sides of the nave are embattled. The east
* The late John Watson, Esq., of MaJton, made the following quaint but true obser>
vation on the Adew from this common, in 1781 : — " Upon the middle of this moor, a man
may see ten miles around him ; within those ten miles there is as much freestone as
would build ten cities, each as large as York ; within those ten miles there is as much
good oak timber as would build those ten cities ; there is as much Hmestone, and coals
to bum it into lime, as the building of those ten cities would require ; there is also as
much clay and sand, and coals to bum them into bricks and tiles, as would build those
ten cities ; within those ten miles there are two iron forges sufficient to furnish iron for
the building of those ten cities, and ten thousand tons to spare ; within those ten mUea
there is lead sufficient for the ten cities, and ten thousand fodders to sjMure ; within
those ten miles there is a good coal seam sufficient to furnish those ten cities with firing
for ten thousand years ; within those ten miles there are three navigable rivers, from
any of which a man may take shipping and sail to any part of the world ; within those
ten miles there are seventy gentlemen's houses, all keeping coaches, and the least of
of them an esquire, and ten parks and forests well stocked with deer ; within those ten
miles there are ten maiket towns, one of which may be supposed to return i!l 0,000,
per week.**
684 BARKSTON ASH (PART OF) WAPENTAKE.
window is of four lights, the apex of the chancel has a beautiful foliated
cross, the apexes of the nave and porch are surmounted with plain but
elegant crosses. The interior is neatly furnished with single seats, and the
stained timber roof is open. The church-jard is extensire.
The Vicarage House is a commodious stone building, repaired, enlaiged,
and altered in 1854, at a cost of nearly JS800., defrayed partly by Christ
Church College. The architects for the restoration were Messrs. Perkins and
Backhouse, of Leeds, and Mr. John Holmes, of Bnimham, was the builder.
The Village of Bramham, which is large and respectable, stands pleasantly
in the vale of a small rivulet, on the great north road, about 4 miles S.S.E.
of Wetherby. The neighbourhood is undulated and abounds with rich and
beautiful scenery. There are chapels for the Wesleyan and PrimitiTe
Methodists. The School is endowed with £14. per annum, arising firom
land purchased by several bequests.
A new Lock-up has lately been erected on ground given by the Lord of the
Manor. This erection cost about Jg50., paid out of the parish rates.
Bramham Park, the property, and late the seat of George Lane Fox, Esq.,
is delightfully situated in the midst of a highly cultivated country, about li
mile S.W. of the village. The noble mansion, which had been built in the
reign of Queen Anne, by Robert Benson, Esq., afterwards Lord Bingley, was
destroyed by fire on the 20th of July, 1828. It was a magnificent edifice,
consisting of a large centre and wings, connected by corridors of the Doric
order. The pleasure grounds are extensive, and vexy elegant ; and the park is
adorned with temples, &c,, as well as by a large obelisk, erected in memory of
Robert Fox Lane, Esq., grandson and heir to Robert Benson, Lord Bingley,
who died in 1768. In the chapel adjoining the ruined mansion are some
marble monuments to the ancestors of the family.
This estate was a grant from the Crown, in the reign of William and
Mary, and was the first enclosure on Bramham Moor.
BoweUffe Hall, the seat of George L. Fox, Esq., is a good mansion in the
Grecian style, comprising a centre and two wings ; the entrance being sur-
mounted by a pediment, supported by six pillars. The grounds are tastefully
laid out.
Bramham House, the residence of Captain Preston, is a commodious edi-
fice ; Bramham Lodge is the residence of J. H. Whittaker, Esq. ; and Hope
Hall, the sporting seat of Lord Nevile, stands in small, but neatly laid out,
pleasure grounds.
Bramham College. — This scholastic institution occupies the mansion a short
distance from the village, formerly known by the name of Bramham Biggin,
BARKSTON ASH (PABT OF) WAPENTAKE. 686
which was once the ancestral seat of the noble house of Headlej. About the
year 1844, the Hev. Benjamin Bendej Haigh, who had for seyeral years
occupied Grimston Lodge, near Tadcaster, as an educational establishment,
took Bramham Biggin on lease, and transferred his establishment thither.
Since then Mr. Haigh has expended large sums in enlarging and improving
the house and grounds, and it is now admirably suited, by reason of its
internal and external arrangements, for the accommodation of a large number
of pupils. The entrance gateway, with its neat rustic lodge, has an air
of elegance about it ; and the view of the College from this point, with its
glassy dome and other ornamental appendages, and surrounded as it is
by tastefully arranged gardens and pleasure grounds, and with rich sylvan
scenery, is very imposing and beautifully picturesque.
The original style of the house was Tudor ; the principal front exhibits a
centre and two wings, 170 feet in length. The new buildings consist of a
hall, 60 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 34 feet high ; arcaded cloisters, gymna-
sium, (fee. The refectory is a magnificent apartment, in the Grecian style,
60 feet long, 85 feet wide, and 32 feet high. The decorations of this room,
with its beautiful dome, and fine oriel window, are exceedingly chaste and
elegant, and the general arrangements of the college appear to be perfect.
Indeed, the Government Inspector stated that for efficiency, elegance, and
comfort, there was nothing in the country to equal this establishment. Gas
works, for lighting the college, have been recently erected, at a cost of iB 1,800.
The park, gardens, &c., extend over about 180 acres. The course of in-
atruction pursued at this establishment embraces all the modem languages,
as well as the classics ; also mathematics, and the other branches of a sound
commercial education. Nor are the accomplishments neglected ;<^'music,
drawing, and dancing, being taught to such pupils as are desirous to learn
them, by the best masters. The mysteries of agriculture, too, are taught to
those who choose to learn that science. There is an excellent library at-
tached to the college, to which the pupils are allowed access. Divine service,
with a lecture by the Principal (Rev. B. B. Haigh), is celebrated every Sun-
day evening in the hall of the college. The pupils of this establishment can
matriculate at the London University.
The Rev. B. Eamonson, Vicar of Collingham, by deed, in 1853, conveyed
to T. Fairfiftx, Esq., and his heirs in trust, a field in this parish, called Sand-
forth Close, the rents to be applied by the incumbent of Clifford, thus : — ^in
payment of 18s. on every St Thomas's Day, to as many poor widows or
widowers in this township ; in pajrment of 13s. annually towards the educa-
tion of a child resident in Bramham ; and in the distribution of bibles, prayer
books, ice, to the poor.
686 BABKSTOK ASH (pART OF) WAPENTAKE.
CUffordrCum-Boston Towtiship embraces an area of 1,491 acres, and con-
tained 1,834 inhabitants in 1851. Assessed property, Jg2,616. It is said
that the neat and interesting Village of Clifford^ which is situated about S\
miles S.E. by S. of Wetherby, derives its name from the circumstance of the
Lord CliiEford, of Skipton, having, on his way to aid Henry of Lancaster
against Edward of York, drawn up his northern forces before the battle of
Towton, on the extensive plain now forming this township, which hencefor-
ward took the name of Clifford Moor. Subsequently a smaU hamlet was
erected for the convenience of the shepherds who fed their flocks upon the
moor; this became gradually extended, until a small village was formed,
which took its name from the moor in which it was situated. A statute £ur
for sheep was annually held here upon the Wednesday after the Idth of
October; but since the whole of the moor became enclosed, about sixteen
years ago, this once far-famed fair has dwindled dovra to a village feast
Near the village are extensive flax mills, belonging to Messrs. R. T.
Grimston and Co. These have been lately enlarged, and the company now
possess, in steam and water, equal to 100 Ij^orse power. There are two reser-
voirs, and their joint extent is 7^ acres. About 400 persons are constantly
employed in manufacturing shoe threads and shop twines from flax, the su-
periority of which over similar articles has long been recognised. The Messrs.
Grimston (who reside here) have erected a number of houses in the village
for the accommodation of their workpeople, and in the construction of them
every attention has been paid to comfort and cleanliness.
A District Church (St Luke), very eligibly situated, and forming a pro-
minent object to the surrounding neighbourhood, was erected in 18452, at a
cost of about J^ 1,5 60., raised by subscription. The site, together with the
sum of J£100., for the erection of a tower, was given by the late G. L. Fox,
Esq., of Bramham Park. The patronage was vested in George Lane Fox,
Esq., in consideration of his having given £1,000. to be invested in the funds
as an annual income to the incumbent, and £500. (minus the deduction of a
repair fund for the church) towards the building of a residence ; ultimatdy
Christ Church College, Oxford, the lay impropriator of the rectorial tithes of
Bramham, gave £300. towards the Parsonage, and the Rev. W. H. Lewth-
waithe, the first incumbent of the church, made up the remainder of the cost
of the building. The present incumbent is the Rev. John Barclay Scriven.
The church is a handsome cruciform structure of stone, in the Early English
style, with a pinnacled tower at the west end, and contains about 300 sittings.
Here is a Catholic Church, dedicated to St. Edward the Confessor, erected
at a cost of about £4,000., raised entirely by subscriptions, collected in this
BAKKSTON ASH (PAKT uf) WAPENTAKK. 587
country and on the continent, by the pastor, the Rev. Edward L. Clifford.
The style of this splendid edifice is pure Norman-Gothic ; Joseph Hansom,
Esq., was the architect, and it was opened in 1848. It consists of a nave
and aisles, two chapels, and a handsome porch. In a nicho in the front of
the latter appendage, is a neat statuette of the patron saint seated. The
sides of the church are each made into eight divisions by pilasters. In these
divisions are good windows, and the clerestory of the nave has eight double
lights on each side. The interior has an unusually impressive appearance.
Six massy circular pillars and arches separate the nave from the aisles,
behind the high altar, and at the sides of the sanctuary, run a line of arcade
work, and behind the altar screen, and separated from the sanctuary by three
arches, is the Lady Chapel, which, together with the Chapel of the Blessed
Sacrament, are most sumptuously decorated. In the Lady Chapel is a very
beautiful statue of the Blessed Virgin, executed in Carrara marble, by
Hoffman, and pronounced by Overbeck to be one of the best works of Chris-
tian art in the world. Hoffman is now the first Christian sculptor of the
day, and his conversion to Catholicity took place whilst he was executing
this statue. The front of the high altar presents a line of pillars and arches
elegantly carved and gilded, and the space within them represents a tomb,
in which is to be deposited the relics of a saint. Several of the windows
are filled with stained glass, and the roof is open. The body of the church
is without pews or seats, except a number of small light chairs (similar to
those seen in the continental churches), which serve both for sitting and
kneeling. There is a mortuary shapel in the crypt. A bell, weighing 13
cwt, is suspended in a temporary erection of wood at the west end, but a
massive Norman tower is about to b^ built, in which will be placed a peal
of six bells. In the church-yard is a handsome sepulchral cross, and ad-
jacent to the church is the presbytery.
The Boys' School, a little distance from the church, is a neat building,
above the porch of which, in a niche, is a statuette of the Madonna. About
100 children attend the day school, but a much larger number attend the
Sunday school.
The Convent and Oirls' School is a very neat Gothic building, situated at
the top of the village, near the Protestant Church. This edifice was erected
in 1849, for a Protestant Nunnery, by the Rev. W. H. Lewthwaite, lato
incumbent of St. Luke's Church (now a priest of the Catholic Church), and
dedicated with religious processions, Ac, under the title of " The Oratory
and Hostill of St. Stephen and St. John." But on his becoming a Catholic,
in 1851, Mr. Lewthwaite conveyed it to the trusteeship of the Right Rev.
688 BARKSTON ASH (PAHT Otj WAPENTAKE.
Dr. Briggs (Catholic Bishop), the Rev. E. L. Clifford, and the Ber. J. C.
Fisher, to be maintained as a Conventual School. The inmates of the
building are nuns of the Order of Providence, from Loughborough, whose
sole business is to educate the poor and instruct the ignorant The school
for girls is well attended. Opposite the Convent gate is a deep draw well,
over which Mr. Lewthwaite erected an ornamental building of Gothic design,
under a sense of the high dignity to which the element of water is raised in
the Sacrament of Baptism.
There was a Methodist Chapel close to the Catholic Church, which was
purchased and pulled down, and a small but neat chapel was erected on
another site during the past year. The Natumal School was enlarged in
1851, by G. L. Fox, Esq., by whom it is chiefly supported. There is a
handsome Methodist School in the village, built in 1852, at a cost of about
£400. The site was given by Mr. J. Diggle, of Clifford.
In 1608 Richard Dawson, of Collingham, left an estate to the poor of
Clifford, and two other places. The property now lets for £70. per annum,
about £S0. of which is distributed yearly to the poor of this township.
BoBton Spa is a lai^e and flourishing village, situated in a romantic and
beautiful vale through which the river Wharfe runs with a rapid current.
Its exact position is the south bank of the Wharfe, on the road leading from
Wetherby to Tadcaster, about 3 miles S.S.E. of the former town. It is
connected with the village of Thorpe Arch by a very fine bridge, across the
river, of four arches. The former name of the place was Boston, but it
was called Boston Spa, a few years ago, by the Postmaster General, to dis>
tinguish it from Boston in Lincolnshire. The village is of recent growth,
and has arisen in consequence of tHe accidental discovery, in 1744, of a
chalybeate springi', by John Shires, a labourer, while cutting brush-wood on
the banks of the river. Little appears to have been known of the medi-
* The following is an analysis, from one vine gallon of this water, by Dr. Adam
Hunter, of Leeds, and Mr. West : —
QnSam*
Muriate of Soda 562.00
„ of lime 12.25
., of Magnesia 7.25
Carbonate of Iron 1.75
Silica 0.75
584.00
OaseouM ConterUt : —
Cubic Indct.
Carbonic Add 10.56
Azotie Qas 6.00
BABKSTON ASH (PABT Of) WAPENTAKE. 689
cinal properties ol this witter till the year 1784, when it was submitted to a
series of experiments by an eminent physician and chemist. For some time
this spring had been called Thorpe Arch Spa, on account of the village of
that name in the vicinity afibrding the nearest accommodation for visitors,
before the building of the village of Boston. The water is of a saline taste,
and of a slightly sulphureous smell» and is possessed of purgative and diuretic
qualities. It is taken in larger quantities than the Harrogate water, and
is efficacious in cases of general relaxation, bilious and dyspeptic complaints,
and glandular obstructions.
The soil coaisists of sand, clay, and magnesian limestone. The rocks are
chiefly calcareous, and supposed to be impregnated with different minerals.
According to the census of 1851, this rising village contained about S50
houses, and a population of 1,049 souls — ^though it is said that the first house
was built here in the bare open field in 1753, by the late Mr. Joseph Tate.
Now it has its handsome church, good chapels, excell^at and commodious
hotelsy w^ suppbed shops, gented villa residences, and a variety of respect*
able lodging houses, suited to tl^e taste and convenience of every olass of
visitors. Most of the houses are elegant, and are built of Clifford Moor stone.
The scenery is picturesque in the extreme, and the walks on the banks of
the river are very romantic. ''The situation of Boston Spa is such as
will always command the attention of the invalid, and the admiration of the
traveller," writes a local authoress. " The Creator has scattered innumerable
beauties over our globe, on the frame-work of the hills, and the valleys they
enclose, — on crag and stream, sky and earth. He has drawn the lines of
beauty and grandeur, with a pencil that never errs; and amongst these
lovely ornaments of earth, may jusUybe ranked this * Gem of the Yorkshire
VaUeys.' "*
The original mineral spring belongs to the Lord of the Manor, and is let
at an annual rent; the Old Spa House, or pump room, was built over it
in 1884. Previous to its erection, the well was open, and two old women,
who had for their shelter an excavation in the rock, attended daily, and
sold the water. The river was crossed near this place by a rude wooden
bridge. But to this state of things a great contrast is formed by the present
accommodation provided for the visitors to this place of fashionable resort.
The pump room alluded to has its hot and cold baths ; and all the advan-
tages of the pump room, baths, hot and cold, upon the newest principle,
• The Otm of the Yorkshire VaUeys, de., by Miss Sarah Blakeston, of Boston Spa.
We would refer oar readers to this interesting little work, for a concise and well written
description of this enchanting neighbourhood,
4 T
690 BABKSTON ASH (PABT OF) WAPENTAKE.
splendid assembly or promenade room, and eleganUj laid out pleasure
grounds, maj be enjoyed at the new baths at the Victoria and Albert Hotel*
The other large, commodious, and well conducted Hotel is called, from its
proprietor (Mr. Thomas B. Dalby), Dalby's Hotel.
The Church (St Maiy) is a beautiful Gothic structure, erected in 1814 (on
land giyen by Mr. Samuel Tate, said to have been the first person bom at
Boston Spa), and enlarged and improyed in 1851. It has lately been nuide
parochial for ecclesiastical purposes. Its parts are a nave, north aisle,
chancel, porch, and tower. The living is a Perpetual Curacy, of the net
value of i6146. per ann., in the gift of the Vicar of Bramham, and incumbency
of the Rev. W. S. Homer, who resides in the Parsonage House.
The Presbyteriam and WesUyans have each a chapel here ; and there is a
National School, which is well conducted and attended.
Mr. Thomas Nichols, bookseller, has a small but select subscription libnuy.
About three miles from Boston Spa, in the parish of CoUingham, the
remains of a Eoman ViUa were recently discovered in a field, known bj tbe
name of Dalton Parlours, belonging to the fieurm at Compton, in the occupa-
tion of Mr. Joseph Dalby. The site was formerly called Abbey Field, from
the remains of walls then existing, and which were removed about the year
1806 ; and before the enclosure it formed part of Clifford Moor. The field
is now tilled, and at various periods coins, tiles, and other fragmentary re-
mains of Roman occupation, have been ploughed up. Numerous skeletons
* This beautiful Hotel was erected by a company of shareholders, at a cost of about
£3,500., and in 1851 the property was purchased by Mr. John Newhill, the present pro-
prietor, who has since made extensiye improvements in the house and gronnds. To
obtain the mineral spring at this point, the solid rook has been bored to the depth of
•ipwards of eighty yards ; and the water now flows to the surfiuse through copper and
^oitta percha pipes. This important and interesting spring was analysed in 1849, by
W. West, Esq., F.B.S., and the following is the result : —
PwChO. PwRnt.
Sulphate of Magnesia grains 6.0 0.75
Chloride of Magnesium „ 20.4 2.55
„ of Sodium „ 406.6 50.82
„ ofOalcinm , 24.07 3.01
Carbonate of lime „ .... 20.01 3.65
Silica , 1.01 0.14
Carbonate of Iron „ 0.06 0.006
Iodine A trace
Bromine : A trace
AUo of Oases : —
Pet Gal. PCf Pint.
Carbonic Acid Gas cubic inches 10.06 1.32
Nitrogen* . • ■ • . . • . • * * „ ...««. 9t08 .*«•«». • 1«18
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE. 691
have also been found here, and, in one case, intennent under tiles seems to
have been adopted. In the beginning of the year 1864, some gentlemen in
the neighbourhood decided to examine the site, and the result of their exca-
vation was the discoyery of a portion of a Roman residence, consbting of
some rooms, with the remains of hypocausts, and a fine tesselated pavement.
Nearly the whole of the pillars, &c., of one hypocaust, and the greater part
of the pavement, have been removed to the Museum at York. '* From the
general character of the remains, and nature of the objects found on the site,"
says W. Proctor, Esq., of York, in an admirable account of the excavations
at this place, which he presented to the Yorkshire Antiquarian Club, ** there
can, I suppose, be no hesitation in looking upon the foundations at Dalton
Parlours as the remains of a villa, in which some wealthy Roman citizen,
exchanging the ' fumum et opes strepitumque Romse * for the delights of a
rural residence, had furnished himself with his usual luxuries and means of
enjoyment. Independently of the absence of the mention of any station in
this locality, by the writers of any authority in these matters, the place itself
gives no indication which would lead to the formation of such an opinion."
THE AINSTY WAPENTAKE CONTINUED.
Thorp Aboh. — This parish is situated in the beautiful vale of the river
Wharfe, and is supposed to derive the distinctive afiBx to its name from the
family of De Arcubus, or D'Arches, who came in with WiUiam the Conqueror,
and obtained large possessions in this part of the country. The area of the
parish is 1,607 acres ; population, 815 : rateable value, £2,620. ; and amount
of assessed property, £3,039. The Lord of the Manor, and chief proprietor
of the soil, is R. W. W. Hatfield, Esq., who resides at the Hall near the
village — a fine mansion, situated in a well wooded park. The soil is fertile.
The Roman road to Boroughbridge, called Rudgate, passes by the eastern
boundary of the parish. On the site of this road, but in an acyoining parish,
is St, Helm's Well, connected with which was a chapel, long since destroyed,
and near it a cross, which has lately been removed.
The lAwng, which was ordained a Vicarage by Archbishop Sewall, in 1358,
is valued in the King's Books at £3. 15s. 5d., but in the early part of the
last century it was only of the yearly value of £34., till by the liberality of
the Rev. Mr. Robinson, of Leeds, and Lady E. Hastings, added to a donation
firom Queen Anne's fund, and a contribution firom the then Vicar, the recto-
rial tithes were purchased as an augmentation to the living. These tithes
were commuted for £387. 9s. 3d. The present patron is the Rev. C. Wheeler,
and the incumbent is the Rev. F. H. S. Menteath.
69d THE AINSTT WAPSNTAKE.
The Church (All Saints) staihis a considenible diBtanoe from the vilkge,
and is an ancient strocture (with the exception of the tower, in the west front
of which is a highly enri<^ed Norman doorway), rehuilt in 1756, in the later
Engiish style. The dianoel was partially restored in 1848. The tower is
emhattled, and finished witli crooketed pinnacles at the angles. In ike inte-
rior the naye is divided from the north (the only) aiide, by liittr eqaibteral
arches, vesting on octagonid columns. In tbe cfaaDcd is a hrass tablet, wilii
an extract from the will of Lady Elizabeth Hastings. Near tiiis brass is a
tablet to the Rev. R. Hemington, iorty-five years Vicar of Uiis parish, wfao
died in 1830, aged 70. In making a vaialt for his family in the same year,
a stone coffin was disooTered, which is now deposited in the cfanrch-yaid.
The Vicarage H&use is situated on the banks of the Wharfe.
The Village is extremely picturesque, and is separated £rom Boston Spa,
as has been already observed, by a beautiful bridge, from which there is a
veiy pleasing and diversified view. It is about S} miles S.E. by E. 6om
Wetherby, and 19 miles from York by railway. There is a station hero on
the line leading from Church Fenton to Harrogate.
The School was founded in 1738, by Lady E. Hastings, who endowed it
with £15. per annum, and ten acres of land ; but the money endowment has
since been considerably augmented. The prosent bmlding, winch is of stone,
and is neat and commodious, was erected in 18^. There is likewise a good
residence for the schoolmaster. Thero is a Mutual Impro<vement Association
held in this school, and thero is in connexion wi& it a library of SOO vols.
Walton. — This parish measures 1,670 statoto acres, mostly the property
of G. L. Fox, Esq., who is Lord of the Manor. The population of the parish
in 1861, was 245 souls ; the rateable yalue is ig2,010. ; and the amoimt of
assessed property is £1,816. The old Roman road — ^Watling Street — passes
through this parish. The Limng is a Perpetual Curacy, in the patronage of
the impropriators. Its value was certified at &1, 13s. 4d., retamed at £50.,
but now worth about i£90. per annum.
The Church (St. Peter) is an ancient structoro, consisting of a nave,
chancel, tower, and porch, and is situ^rted on an eminence. The tower con-
tains three bells, and is embattled and pinnacled. The interior is plain. In
the chancel is an ancient monument, consisting of a recess with a crocketed
pediment, beneath which is the effigy of a Knight in full annour, with a
gori^et, hood, and tippet, of chain or mail annour. The style of tire armour
seems to be of tihe reign df Edward III. Near this is a tabkt to Nicholas
son of Lord Fair&x, of GilMng Oastie, who died in 1703, i^ed 44.
The Village is small, and stands on rising ground, about 3^ miles E. bj S.
of Wetherby.
THE iJNSTT WAPSHTAKS. 698
WeUon HaU, vrhich is pldasantly situated on the south side of the village,
occu|^ 4he ^te of the noble maosioii, once the residenoe of the Faizfax
funiljr, to wkom the greater part of this parish formerly bebnged. The
present house was ^«ected out <si the nuns of the former, more than a centuiy
ago, and is now oonTcited into a boarding academy, oondudied by the Misses
Traadwetl.
The Parish School, which is conducted on the National system, is sup-
ported by Mrs. Yorke, of WighiU Park. The present buildiag was o^ected in
1847, by the Lord of the Manor, amd ds a neat stone erection.
Wig-hill. — The family of Stapleton possessed this estate, and were seated
here for upwards of 500 years. Sir Robert Stapleton, who was Shedff of
this county in the Sdrd of Elizabeth (1581), met the Judges with fioven score
men in suitable Hveries. He was descended from Sir Miles Stapleton, Sheriff
of Yorkshire in the reign of Edward m., and one of the first founders of the
noble Order of the Garter. This manor and estate was sold, nearly forty
years ago, to E. F. Wilson, Esq., M.P., and the proprietors of the parish at
present are Andrew Montague, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), Edward Yorke,
Esq., Mr. Matthew Thomlinson, and a few others. Area of the parish, 2,588
acres ; population, 296 ; rateable value, £4,416. ; assessed property, dgd,410.
The surface is undulated, and the scenery is rich and agreeably diversified.
The Church is a Discharged Vicarage, endowed with a portion of the rec-
torial tithes, and valued in the King's Books at £5. ds. 6id. ; now worth
£120. per ann. The advowson was given to the Prior of Healaugh Park in
1291 ; the present patron is the Lord of the Manor. The Fabric stands on
the summit of a hill, from which is a most extensive and beautiful prospect.
Its parts are a nave and north aisle, chancel and north chapel, a low em-
battled and pinnacled tower at the west end, and a south porch. The entrance
is a curious Norman structure, much dilapidated. The eastern part of the
chancel has been fully repaired, and a convenient vestry built a few years
ago, at a cost of £833., by the Vicar, the Bev. Thomas Jessop, D.D. The
western portion of the chancel was completely repaired in 1842, at the cost
of E. F. Wilson, Esq. And to these improvements the Archbishop of York
contributed a handsome antique pulpit, and the reading-desk has been pre-
sented by Mr. Yorke. The south side of the church has square-headed win-
dows ; the east window is pointed, and of three lights. In the interior the
aisle is separated from the body by four circular arches, resting on columns,
formed by a union of four massy cylinders, with octagonal capitals. The
tower is open to the nave by a pointed arch, and the roof is waggon-headed.
In the side chapel are several slabs, to the memory of the Stapleton feunily
694 THE AIN8TT WAPENTAKE.
during the 14tb and 15th centuries, and a handsome altar tomb of alabaster,
containing a full-length effigy, in plate armour, and a long Latin inscription,
to Robert Stapjlton, Esq., Lord of Wighill, who died in 1643. It was
erected hj Catherine, daughter of Lord Fairfsix, to his memory.
The Village is small but neat, and stands about 3 miles N. by W. of
Tadcaster. There is a Wesleyan Methodist Chapel here, erected in 18S8.
WighiU Park is the seat of Edward Yorke, Esq. This mansion is plea-
santly situated on rising ground, and in the midst of an extensiye and well
laid out park. The old hall, the seat of the Stapletons, stood on the north
side of the village, and some vestiges of it may be traced in the building
which succeeded it.
About H mile S.W. of the village is a small moated residence, called
Moat House, the origin of which is not known. The moat encloses an area
of about half an acre. A School in the village, for girls, is supported by
Mrs. Yorke. The school house was erected about three years ago, by A.
Montague, Esq. There is also a neat residence for the schoolmistress.
END OF VOL. I.
bevsblet: pbintbd bt jork obbbh, marbjbt-flace.