Skip to main content

Full text of "History of the abbey and palace of Holyrood"

See other formats


lE^lrinJHmlFimlfpjgfrirgf^ 


1 


THE  LIBRARIES 

COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY 


General  Library 


|E^  [imlpjiirpjilfim'ffirfl^ 


I 
1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

i 

£] 


■^^■ 


■i  - 


A3  M  M  Y  Ai^iD.  ^FA^lbA^^M 


S'BH^T  HI '£>'©!£>„ 


^?^^^ 
'-?^^?? 


^r  :-  ks^fi  c^  :. 


•^i-Yuo^^i^  ^■u^^i 


CL-i'iiHbnrali. 


:U     OF    'l-HK    CM 


HISTORY 


OF  THE 


ABBEY  AND  PALACE 


OF 


HOLYROOD. 


EDINBURGH: 

PUBLISHED  BY  DUNCAN  ANDERSON, 

KEEPER  OF  THE  CHAPEL-ROYAL. 


CONTENTS. 


Twsn 
Chapter  I.  The  Foundation   and  Endowment   of  the 

Abbey,      ......         3 

II.  The  Abbots  of  Holjrood,  and  Early  His- 
tory of  the  Abbey,      .         .         .         .17 

III.  Marriage  of  James  IV.  with  ^Margaret  of 

England,   ...  .         .       25 

IV.  James  V.  at  Holyrood,    .         •         .         .       33 
V.  Queen  Mary  at  Holyrood,         ...       37 

VI.  Queen  Mary's  Progress  to  and  from  Hol}-- 

rood,  &c. 42 

VII.  Marriage  of  Queen  Mary  and  Lord  Darnley 

at  Holyrood, 52 

VIII.  Murder  of  Riccio  in  Holyrood,  .         .       59 

IX.  Murder  of  Darnley  and  Rise  of  Bothwell,         71 

X.  Mary  and  Bothwell,         ....       77 

XI.  Holyrood  in  the  Reign  of  James  VI.         .       85 

XII.  Coronation  of  Charles  I.  at  Holyrood,         .       99 

XIII.  Holyrood  up  to  the  Revolution  of  1688,     .     108 

XIV.  The  Fabric  of  the  Palace  and   its  Recent 

History, 121 

XV.  The  Royal  Apartments,   .         .         .         .133 
XVI.  Environs  of  Hoiyi-ood — Royal  Park— Burgh 

of  Canongate,  and  Sanctuary,      .         .137 

XVII.  Guide  to  the  Palace  and  Chapel  Koyal,     .     156 

Notes,      ,        .       .        .        ,        .187 


THE 

ABBEY    AND    PALACE 

OP 

HOLYROOD. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TEE  FOUNDATION  AND  ENDOWMENT  OF 
THE  ABBEY. 

^^PS^HE  Abbey  of  Hol}TOod  was  founded  by  King  Dayid 


r^A 


1 1 


for  the  reception  of  Canons  Regular  of  the  order 
of  St.  Augustine.  Malcolm  and  Margaret,  his  royal 
parents,  had  set  before  him  an  example  of  liberality  toward 
the  church ;  but  the  munificence  of  their  son  far  transcended 
that  of  his  predecessors,  and  was  never  equalled  by  any 
prince  that  succeeded  him  on  the  Scottish  throne.  Tho 
majestic  ruins  of  Melrose,  Kelso,  Dryburgh,  and  Hol}TOod, 
not  to  speak  of  other  shattered  piles,  that  hallow  with 
their  venerable  shadows  so  many  green  corners  of  tho 
land,  bear  solemn  testimony  to  his  pious  zeal  and  bound- 
less liberality.    The  Roman  Church  canonized  her  bene- 

331267 


4  raSTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

factor,  and  the  monastic  chroniclers,  as  might  be  expected, 
are  enthusiastic  in  their  praises  of  St.  David.  The  sar- 
castic witticism,  which  his  successor  James  I.  uttered  at 
his  grave,  that  "  he  was  ane  soir  sanct  for  the  Crown," 
implied  of  course  a  censure  on  him  for  alienating  so  much 
of  the  royal  property.  But  posterity,  whose  eyes  are 
clear,  appreciates  the  policy  of  David's  line  of  conduct — 
perceiving  that  in  Scotland,  in  those  stormy  and  unlettered 
times,  gifts  to  the  church  were  to  a  great  extent  contri- 
butions also  toward  the  maintenance  of  the  old  learning, 
the  civiHzation  of  a  fierce  commonalty,  the  advancemeni; 
of  the  arts,  and  the  agricultural  melioration  of  the  soil. 
Buchanan,  the  historian,  whose  tendencies,  of  course,  were 
all  in  an  opposite  direction,  has  recorded  his  conviction, 
that  "  a  more  perfect  exemplar  of  a  good  king  is  to  be 
found  in  the  reign  of  David  I.  than  in  all  the  theories  of 
the  learned  and  ingenious."  * 

Such  a  prince  required  no  special  intimation  from 
heaven  to  prompt  him  to  found  a  religious  house  under 
the  shadow  of  a  fortress  where  he  himself  frequently  re- 
sided. A  miraculous  interposition,  however,  on  behalf  of 
the  king  himself,  when  prostrate  under  the  antlers  of  a 
"  wyld  hart,"  has  been  assigned  as  the  immediate  cause 
of  the  foundation  of  the  Abbey.  Bellenden,  the  transla- 
tor of  Boece,  tells  us  that  the  event  happened  in  the 
"  vail  that  lyis  to  the  Eist  fra  the  said  castell,  quhare  now 
lyis  the  Cannogait,"  and  which  at  that  time  was  part  of 
"  ane  gret  forest  full  of  hartis,  hyndis,  toddis,  and  siclike 
manor  of  beistis."  The  day  of  the  occurrence  was  a  holy 
one — the  festival  of  the  Exaltation  of  the  Cross,  or  "  Rudo 
day,"  as  it  was  commonly  called ;  and  the  king  had  gone 
a  hunting  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  Alwin  or 
♦  Hist.  Rcr.  Scot.  lib.  vii. 


FOUNDATION  OP  THE  ABBEY.  6 

Alcuin,  his  confessor,  "ane  man  of  singular  and  devoit 
life,"  and  who  was  destined  to  be  the  first  Abbot  of  Holy- 
rood.  When  the  king,  in  the  ardour  of  the  chase,  had 
ridden  to  "  the  fute  of  the  Crag,"  there  suddenly  rushed 
upon  him  from  the  woods  the  "  farest  hart  that  ever  was 
Bene,"  and  dashed  both  him  and  his  horse  to  the  ground 
with  great  violence.  David  threw  back  his  hands  between 
the  antlers  of  the  stag,  to  save  himself,  if  possible,  from 
the  blow ;  and  "  the  haly  Croce  slaid  incontinent  in  (into) 
his  hands."  The  wild  deer  fled  in  dismay  at  the  sight  of 
the  sacred  emblem,  to  which  it  seemed  about  to  do  vio- 
lence ;  and  the  king,  being  afterwards  admonished  in  a 
dream,  resolved  to  dedicate  a  house  to  the  "  Holy  Rude," 
the  Virgin,  and  All  Saints,  on  the  very  spot  where  "  he 
gat  the  Croce." 

Such  is  the  legend  of  the  "  miraculous  foundation," 
which,  in  all  probability,  was  devised  by  an  over-zealous 
Brother  of  St.  Austin  some  two  centuries  after  the  demise 
of  the  saintly  king,  with  the  intention  of  throwing  a  super- 
natural lustre  round  the  annals  of  his  house.  It  is  evident, 
for  several  important  reasons,  that  the  legend  was  unheard 
of  for  ages  after  the  death  of  David.  If  it  had  been  simply 
a  superstitious  exaggeration  of  an  accident  which  had  be- 
fallen the  king,  it  must  have  appeared  in  some  shape  or 
other  in  the  pages  of  the  earlier  annalists.  There  is  no 
trace  of  it  in  the  original  text  of  Boece,  that  great  collec- 
tor, and  even  fabricator  of  legendary  marvels,  whose  ear 
took  in  every  whisper  of  a  miracle  from  Berwick  to  the 
Pentland  Frith.  The  best  MSS.  of  Bellenden's  transla- 
tion itself  are  without  it.  The  emblematic  antlers  and 
cross  are  not  found  on  any  seal  of  the  Abbey  prior  to  the 
reign  of  James  I;  and,  moreover,  the  tale  is  quite  at 
variance  with  the  well-known  ]Jious  character  of  David 


6  HISTORV  OF  HOLYROOD. 

from  his  youth  up ;  for,  besides  the  conmirring  testunony 
of  all  history,  it  appears  from  the  statement  of  a  contem- 
porary annalist,  Aildred  of  Eievaux,  that  he  was  even 
finically  observant  of  all  the  ordinances  of  the  church.* 
The  same  chronicler  also  tells  us  that  he  has  seen  the  king 
dismount  from  his  horse,  and  cibstamfrom  the  chase,  when 
only  the  meanest  of  his  subjects  requested  an  audience,  f 
In  this  instance,  besides,  we  find  in  authentic  history 
a  satisfactory  reason  why  one  of  the  first  religious  houses 
founded  by  this  king  should  have  been  dedicated  to  the 
Holy  Cross.  The  chroniclers  inform  us  that  Margaret,  the 
grand-niece  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  mother  of 
David,  brought  with  her  to  Scotland  a  cross  of  pure  gold, 
which  opened  and  shut  like  a  casket,  ornamented  with  an 
image  of  the  Saviour  formed  of  the  densest  ebony,  and 
which  contained  within  it  what  was  then  believed  to  be  a 
portion  of  that  "Rude"  on  which  Christ  had  suffered. 
This  holy  relic,  the  same  Aikcd  informs  us,  "  the  pious 
Queen  Margaret  .  .  .  transmitted  as  a  heredi- 
tary gift  to  her  sons.''''%  This  sacred  legacy,  thus  be- 
queathed by  a  p^ncess  who,  as  Lord  Hailes  says,  "  was 
canonized  by  the  voice  of  a  grateful  though  superstitious 
people,"  §  could  not  be  lightly  esteemed  by  the  pious  and 
filial-hearted  David.  It  seems,  therefore,  to  be  almost  a 
certainty,  as  has  been  already  maintained  by  a  distin- 
guished antiquarian,  ||  that  it  was  the  inheritance  of  this 
highly- valued  relic,  which  caused  the  king  to  dedicate  tho 
Abbey  to  the  "Holy  Rude;"  and  tliis  supposition  is 
strengthened  by  the  fact,  that  David  himself  presented  it 

•  Ailredus  Revallen.  in  Twisden's  Scriptores  Decern. 

t  Ibid.  X  Ibid.  p.  350. 

§  Hailes'  Annals,  8vo.  i.  46. 

II  Vide  Courant  newspaper,  31st  August  1850. 


FOUNDATION  OP  THE  ABBEY.  7 

to  the  religious  house  which  he  had  founded.*  It  seems 
not  improbable  that,  being  given  by  David  to  the  canons, 
while  yet  resident  in  the  castle,  they  continued  to  keep  it, 
for  greater  security,  in  their  chapel  in  that  fortress,  since 
it  appears  among  the  other  regalia  found  in  the  treasury 
of  the  castlo  in  1291,  in  which  year  it  was  surrendered 
to  Edward  I.,  with  all  the  other  emblems  of  Scottish  na- 
tionahty,  but  was  restored,  according  to  the  stipulations 
of  the  treaty  of  Northampton,  in  1328.  Under  the  name 
of  "  The  black  rude,"  this  relic  was  for  ages  regarded  as 
the  palladium  of  Scotland  and  her  kings,  f  Unfortunately, 
however,  David  II.  carried  it  with  him  to  the  fatal  field 
of  Neville's  Cross,  where,  on  the  17th  of  October  1346,  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  conquerors,  and  for  centuries 
thereafter  was  exhibited  as  an  object  of  superstitious 
veneration,  in  the  "  Sowth  Alley"  of  the  cathedral  church 
of  Durham.  To  the  Scottish  people  it  must,  indeed,  have 
seemed  a  terrible  corroboration  of  the  awful  potency  of 
the  Cross  of  St  Margaret  that,  on  the  very  day  when  it 
passed  from  the  hands  of  her  youthful  descendant,  he 
himself,  and  the  flower  of  his  nobility,  either  perished  on 
the  field,  or  became  the  captives  of  the  English. 

According  to  the  chronicles  of  Melrose  and  Holyrood, 
the  Abbey  was  founded  in  the  year  1128;  but  the  writ 
which  is  commonly  styled  the  Foundation  Charter  bears 


*  Holingshcd.  Hist.  Scot.,  p.  177. 

t  St.  Cutlibert  would  appear  to  have  taken  the  field  on  this 
occasion  against  St.  Margaret,  for  the  Mimiments  of  Durham 
state  that  the  battle  waa  won  by  John  Fosser,  the  prior,  taking  the 
"h'jly  corporax  cloth"  wherewith  St.  Cuthbert  covered  the  chalice 
when  he  said  mass,  putting  it  in  a  banner  cloth  on  a  spear,  and 
repairing,  with  this  sacred  standard  unfurled,  to  the  acene  of 
action.    Lib*  Caxt.  S.  Crucis  pref.,  p.  xxvii. 


8  HISTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

date  somewhere  between  1143  and  1147.  It  is  highly 
probable  that  some  earlier  grant  to  the  Monastery,  which 
was  afterwards  superseded,  has  been  lost ;  and  this  sup- 
position is  corroborated  by  the  fact,  that  in  the  existing 
charter  the  Abbey  is  spoken  of  as  being  already  founded. 
Before  proceeding  further,  it  may  be  expedient  to  pre- 
sent to  the  reader  a  literal  translation  of  this  curious  and 
important  document. 

"  In  the  name  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Clirist,  and  in  honor 
of  the  Holy  Eood,  the  blessed  Virgin  Mary  and  All  Saints, 
I,  David,  by  the  grace  of  God,  King  of  the  Scots,  by  my 
royal  authority,  with  the  consent  of  Henry,  my  son,  and 
the  bishops  of  my  kingdom,  with  the  confirmation  and 
attestation  also  of  the  Earls  and  Barons,  the  clergy,  more- 
over, and  the  people  assenting,  by  divine  guidance  grant 
and  confirm  in  peaceable  possession  to  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Rood  of  Edwinesburg  [Edinburgh]  as  follows — that 
is  to  say,  I  grant  to  the  church  foresaid,  and  to  the 
Canons  Regular  serving  God  in  the  same,  in  free  and 
perpetual  alms,  the  Church  of  the  Castle,  with  the  appur- 
tenances and  rights  thereof;  trial  by  duel,  water,  and 
fire  ordeal,  so  far  as  pertains  to  ecclesiastical  dignity ; 
with  Salectuna  [Saughton]  and  its  legal  bounds ;  and  the 
Church  of  St.  Cuthbert  and  the  parish  and  all  things  per- 
taining to  the  said  church,  and  with  the  kirktown  and 
its  bounds,  and  the  land  on  which  the  church  stands; 
and  with  the  other  land  lying  under  the  castle,  namely 
from  the  spring  which  rises  near  the  comer  of  my  garden, 
by  the  way  which  leads  to  the  Church  of  St.  Cuthbert, 
and  on  the  other  side,  under  the  castle,  as  far  as  a  crag 
beneath  the  said  castle  towards  the  east;  with  two 
chapels  which  belong  to  the  said  Church  of  St.  Cuthbert, 
namely  Crostorphin,  with  two  oxgangs  and  six  acres  of 


FOUNDATION  OP  THE  ABBEY.  9 

land,  and  the  Chapel  of  Libbertune  with  two  oxgangs  of 
land,  and  with  all  the  tithes  and  rights  both  of  the  living 
and  the  dead  of  Legbernard,  which  Macbetber  gave  to 
the  said  church  and  I  have  confirmed ;  the  Church  of 
Hereth  [Airth]  with  the  land  which  pertains  to  the  said 
church,  and  with  all  the  land  which  I  have  added  and 
granted  to  it,  as  my  ofBcers  and  good  men  have  per- 
ambulated and  delivered  the  same  to  Alwin  the  abbot, 
with  a  saltpan  in  Hereth  and  twenty-six  acres  of  land, 
which  church  and  land  before  named  I  will  that  the 
Canons  of  the  Holy  Rood  shall  hold  and  possess  freely  and 
peaceably  for  ever,  and  I  strictly  prohibit  any  one  from 
unjustly  oppressing  or  disturbing  the  Canons  or  their  men 
[homines]  who  dwell  on  the  said  lands,  or  unjustly  ex- 
acting from  them  any  works,  or  aids,  or  secular  customs, 
I  will  also  that  the  said  Canons  shall  have  Hberty  to  erect 
a  mill  on  the  said  land,  and  that  they  shall  have  all  the 
customs  and  rights  and  easements  in  Hereth — namely,  in 
waters,  in  fishings,  in  meadows,  in  pastures,  and  in  all  things 
necessary,  as  amply  as  when  they  wore  in  my  own  posses- 
sion ;  and  Broctuna  [Broughton]  with  its  legal  bounds,  and 
Inverlet,  which  is  near  the  harbour,  with  its  legal  bounds, 
and  the  harbour  itself  and  half  of  the  fishing,  and  with  the 
whole  tithe  of  all  the  fishing  which  pertains  to  the  church 
of  St.  Cuthbert;  and  Petendreia  [Pittendrich],  with  its 
legal  bounds,  and  Hamere  [Whitekirk],  and  Fordam,  with 
their  bounds,  and  the  Hospital,  with  a  ploughgate  of  land; 
and  an  annuity  of  forty  shillings  from  my  burgh  of  Ed  wines- 
burg,  and  an  annual  rent  of  one  hundred  shillings  for  the 
apparel  of  the  Canons  out  of  my  kain  of  Pert  [Perth], 
from  the  first  merchant  ships  that  come  to  Pert ;  and,  if 
by  chance  such  should  not  come,  I  grant  to  the  said  church, 
out  of  my  revenue  of  Edwinesbuig,  forty  shillings;  and  of 


10  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

Striueline  [Stirling]  twenty  shillings,  and  of  Pert  forty 
shillings,  and  a  toft  in  Striueline  and  the  draught  of  a 
fishing  net,  and  a  toft  in  my  burgh  of  Edwineshurg  free 
and  quit  of  all  custom  and  exaction,  and  a  toft  in  Berewic, 
and  the  draught  of  two  nets  in  Scypwel,  and  a  toft  in 
Reinfry  [Renfrew]  of  five  roods,  and  the  draught  of  a  net 
for  salmon,  and  liberty  to  fish  there  for  herring ;  and  I 
prohibit  any  one  from  exacting  any  customs  from  you  or 
your  men ;  I  grant  also  to  the  foresaid  Canons  from  my 
owTi  Chamber  ten  pounds  annually  for  lighting  and  re- 
pairing the  church  in  perpetuity ;  I  command  also  all  my 
servitors  and  foresters  of  Striuelinshire  and  Clacmanant 
to  give  the  abbot  and  convent  full  liberty  to  take  out  of 
all  my  woods  and  forests  as  much  wood  as  they  please 
and  desire  for  the  building  of  their  church  and  houses  and 
other  purposes ;  and  I  command  that  their  men  who  take 
wood  from  the  said  forests  for  their  use  shall  have  my 
firm  peace,  and  that  they  shall  not  be  in  any  way  dis- 
turbed ;  and  I  grant  also  that  the  lordship  swine  [porcos 
dominios]  of  the  said  church  feeding  in  my  woods,  shall 
be  free  of  pannage.  *  I  also  grant  to  the  said  Canons  one- 
half  of  the  tallow,  lard,  and  hides  of  the  beasts  slaughtered 
in  Edwinesburg,  and  the  tithe  of  all  whales  and  marine 
animals  due  to  me  from  the  Avin,  as  far  as  Colbrandespade 
[Cockbumspath],  and  the  tithe  of  all  my  pleas  and  profits 
from  the  Avin  to  Colbrandespade,  and  the  half  of  the  tithe 
of  my  kain,  and  of  my  pleas  and  profits  of  Kentyr  and 
Errogeil  [Argyle] ;  and  the  skins  of  all  the  rams,  sheep, 
and  lambs  of  my  lordship  of  the  castle,  and  of  Linlitcu 
[Linlithgow],  which  die  naturally,  and  eight  chaiders  of 
malt,  and  eight  of  meal,  and  thirty  cartloads  of  the  brush- 
wood of  Libbertune,  and  one  of  my  mills  of  Dene,  and  the 
*  Dues  levied  on  swine  feeding  in  the  royal  woods. 


FOUNDATION  OP  THE  ABBEY.  11 

tenths  of  my  mill  of  Libbertune  and  of  Dene,  and  of  the 
new  mill  of  Edwinesburg,  and  Craggenmarf,  as  much  as 
is  in  my  lordship,  and  as  much  of  the  said  crag  as  Vineth 
Wliite  gave  to  them  in  free  gift.  I  moreover  grant  liberty 
to  them  to  found  a  burgh  between  the  said  church  and 
my  burgh,  and  that  their  burgesses  have  liberty  to  sell 
and  buy  in  my  market  freely  and  without  blame  or  dues, 
like  my  own  burgesses ;  and  I  prohibit  any  one  in  my 
burgh  from  taking  by  force,  or  without  consent  of  the 
burgesses,  their  bread,  ale,  cloth,  or  other  vendible  com- 
modity. I  also  grant  that  the  Canons  be  free  of  all  toll 
and  custom  in  all  my  burghs  and  in  all  my  lands  for  every- 
thing they  buy  and  sell ;  and  I  prohibit  every  one  from 
executing  a  poinding  on  the  lands  of  the  Holy  Rood, 
except  the  Abbot  of  that  place  shall  have  refused  to  do 
right  and  justice.  I  will  likewise  that  they  hold  all  the 
before-written  subjects  as  freely  and  quietly  as  I  possess 
my  own  lands,  and  I  will  that  the  Abbot  shall  hold  his 
court  as  freely,  and  with  as  ample  powers,  as  the  Bishop 
of  St.  Andrews,  the  Abbot  of  Dunfermlin,  and  the  Abbot 
of  Kelcou  [Kelso],  hold  their  courts.  Before  these  wit- 
nesses, Robert,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrews ;  John,  Bishop  of 
Glasgow ;  Henry,  my  son ;  William,  my  nephew ;  Edward 
the  chancellor;  Herbert  the  chamberlain;  Gillemichael 
the  Earl ;  Gospatric,  brother  of  Dolphin ;  Robert  de  Mon- 
tacute ;  Robert  de  Bumeuile ;  Peter  de  Brus ;  Norman  the 
sheriff;  Oggu;  Leising;  Gillise;  William  de  Graham; 
Turstan  de  Crectune ;  Blein  the  archdeacon ;  ^Ifric  the 
chaplain;  Waleran  the  chaplain."* 

Fordun  styles  the  Abbey  "  The  Monastery  of  the  Crag 
of  the  Holy  Rood,"  and  Joannes  Hagustaldensis,  the  con- 
tinuator  of  Simeon  of  Durham,  calls  it  simply  the  "  Monas- 
*  Translated  from  the  original  in  the  Lib,  Cart.  Sancte  Cruc.  p.  3. 


1 2  inSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

tery  of  the  Crag."  David  appears,  in  the  first  instance, 
to  liave  located  his  Canons,  whom  he  brought  from  tho 
Augustinian  monastery  of  St.  Andrews,  upon,  or  at  the 
base  of,  the  Castle  rock  of  Edinburgh,*  and  it  is  difficult 
to  determine  the  precise  period  when  they  settled  on  the 
meadow  below  Arthur  Seat.  We  have  already  stated 
that  the  terms  of  the  charter  of  1143-7  would  seem  to 
imply  that  they  were  by  that  time  established  in  their 
own  house ;  but  Father  Hay,  Canon  of  St.  Genevieve  at 
Paris,  in  the  reign  of  James  VIL,  who  made  an  attempt 
to  ascertain  the  early  history  of  the  Abbey,  confines  them 
to  the  rock  till  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion,  and,  in  con- 
firmation of  this,  speaks  of  the  numerous  charters  of 
]\Ialcolm  IV.,  which  are  dated  "  At  the  Monastery  of  tho 
Holy  Eude  in  the  Castle  of  Maidens." 

David  n.  in  1343  presented  to  the  Abbot  and  Convent 
the  chaplainry  of  his  own  chapel,  f  constituting  the  Abbot 
his  principal  chaplain,  with  liberty  to  substitute  one  of  tlie 
Canons  in  his  room,  who  should  enjoy  all  the  dues  and 
oblations  pertaining  to  the  said  royal  chapel — a  grant 
which  was  confirmed  by  Robert  IH.  and  other  kings. 
David  n.  also  erected  the  whole  lands  in  the  possession 
of  the  Abbey  into  a  free  regality;  and  his  successor 
Robert  H.  granted  to  the  Canons  a  site  for  a  house  on  tho 
Castle  rock,  to  which  they  and  their  dependents  might 
betake  themselves  in  time  of  peril.  | 

Many  important  grants  were  conferred  upon  the  Abbey 
besides  those  contained  in  the  charter  of  its  founder. 
Robert,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrews,  granted  the  Church  of 
Karreden,  with  two  ploughgates  of  land ;  Turstan,  the  son 
of  Leving,  granted  or  confirmed  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy 

•  Vide  Note  A.     f  Lib.  Cart.  Sanct  Crucis,  p.  90.     J  Ibid.  p.  99. 


FOUNDATION  OP  THE  ABBEY.  1 3 

Rood  of  the  Castle  of  Maidens  and  its  Canons  the  Church 
of  Levingstone  [ecclesia  de  Villa  Leving] ;  Thor,  the  sod 
of  Swanus,  bestowed  on  them  all  right  he  had  in  the 
Church  of  Trevement  [Tranent],  its  lands,  pastures,  and 
tithes.  Willelmus  de  Veteri  Ponte  bestowed  the  whole 
land  of  Ogelfas  [Ogilface].  At  a  very  early  period  the 
monks  of  Holyrood  obtained  the  Church  of  Kinnel,  with 
a  ploughgate  of  land,  by  the  gift  of  Herbert,  the  chamber- 
lain of  Scotland;  and  the  Church  of  Paxtun,  and  the 
Church  of  Bathchet  [Bathgate],  with  a  ploughgate  of  land 
pertaining  to  it ;  but  this  latter  church  they  afterwards 
made  over  to  the  monks  of  Neubotle  in  exchange  for  cer- 
tain lands  in  the  Carse  of  Falkirk. 

In  the  twelfth  century,  Fergus,  Lord  of  Galloway,  who 
afterwards  became  a  monk  of  Holyrood,  and  his  son, 
Uchtred,  were  munificent  benefactors  of  the  Abbey.  They 
presented  to  it,  among  other  valuable  grants,  the  Church 
of  St.  Mary  and  St.  Bruok  of  Dunroden,  in  later  t>es  an- 
nexed to  the  parish  of  Erkcudbright ;  the  island  of  Trahil 
[now  St.  Mary's  Isle,]  on  which  was  erected  the  Priory 
of  St.  Mary  of  Ti'ail,  a  cell  of  Holyrood;  the  Church  of 
Galtweid ;  the  Church  of  St.  Bridget  of  Blakhet,  elsewhere 
styled  Lochblacket,*  [Kirkbride  ?]  the  Church  of  St.  Cuth- 
bert  of  Desnesmor  [the  present  Kirkcudbright] ;  the  Church 
of  Tuncgeland ;  the  Church  of  Twenhame  ;  the  Church  of 
St.  Constantino  of  Colmanele,  alias  Kircostintyn,  with  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Constantino  of  Egingham ;  the  Church  of 
St.  Andrew  or  Kirkandrew  Balemakethe  [Balmaghie] ; 
tlie  Church  of  Keletun,  alias  Locheletun,  and  the  Church 
of  K}Tkecormac,  with  the  Chapel  of  Balnecros.  The 
four  last  mentioned  churches  or  chapels  had  previously 

♦  Eegist.  Episcopat  Glasguen.  p.  122, 


14  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

belonged  to  the  monks  of  lona.*  David,  the  son  of  Terr, 
contributed  to  the  House  the  Church  of  Anewith  [Amvoth] 
with  the  Chapel  of  Culenes.  The  Church  of  Eglysbryth 
[Falkirk]  was  an  early  acquisition,  as  also  the  Church  of 
Mount  Lothian,  a  parish  annexed  to  Penycuik ;  the  Church 
of  Melginche,  with  the  land  called  Abthen ;  the  Chapel 
of  Penteland  ;  the  Church  of  Boulton  [a  gift  of  the  family 
of  De  Veteriponte  or  Vipont ;]  the  Church  of  Eistir  Kyn- 
gorne ;  the  Church  of  Ur  ;  the  Church  of  St.  Constantino 
of  Crawfurd,  with  the  Chapel  of  the  Castle  ;  the  Church 
of  Baru  [Barra  united  to  Garvald,]  and  the  Church  of  St. 
Michael  of  Dalgarenoc.  In  the  ancient  taxation  of  the 
ecclesiastical  benefices  in  the  Archdeaconry  of  Lothian, 
found  in  the  Treasury  of  Durham,  and  written  in  the 
reign  of  Edward  I.,  there  appears  among  the  churches 
belonging  to  Holyrood,  "Ecclesia  Sanctas  Marise  in 
Campis."f  This  was,  doubtless,  what  was  at  a  later 
period  the  Collegiate  Church  of  St.  Mary-in-the-Fields, 
on  the  site  of  which  the  College  now  stands,  and  which, 
under  the  popular  name  of  "  Kirk-of-Field, ''  was  destined 
to  be  so  tragically  associated  with  the  history  of  some 
future  occupants  of  Holyrood.  When  erected  into  a 
collegiate  church,  certain  rights  appear  to  have  been 
reserved  to  the  Canons  to  whom  it  originally  belonged, 
for  in  1546,  we  find  Robert,  commendator  of  Holyrood, 
presenting  George  Ker  to  a  prebend  in  it,  "  according  to 
the  force  and  form  of  the  foundation." 

In  1570,  as  appears  from  the  articles  presented  in  that 
year,  in  the  General  Assembly,  against  Adam  Bothwcll, 
Bishop  of  Orkney,  then  in  possession  of  the  revenues  of 

*  Lib.  Cart.  Sanct.  Crucis,  p.  4L 
+  Priory  of  Coldingham  (Surtees  Volume)  Append.  cxiL 


FOUNDATION  OF  THE  ABBEY.  15 

the  Abbey,  twenty-seven  churclies  still  belonged  to  the 
great  Monastery  of  St.  David. 

The  cells  or  priories  dependent  on  the  Abbey  wero 
St.  Mary's  Isle,  in  Galloway,  whose  prior  was  a  lord  of 
Parliament — Blantyre  in  Clydesdale,  which  must  have 
existed  before  1296,  since  "Frere  William,  priour  de 
Blauntyr,"  swore  allegiance  to  Edward  I.  in  that  year — * 
RowadiU,  in  the  Isle  of  Herries,  said  by  Spottiswood  to 
have  been  founded  by  one  of  the  M'Leods  of  Harries — 
Colunsay,  planted,  according  to  the  same  authority,  by 
the  Lord  of  the  Isles,  with  canons  from  Hol3TOod — and 
Crusay  and  Oransay,  beheved  to  have  been  originally  two 
of  those  Island  lamps,  lit  by  the  hand  of  St.  Columba,  to 
shed  a  holy  light  across  the  Western  waters. 

In  the  Abbey  Church  there  were  various  chapels  and 
altars  dedicated  to  different  saints.  The  Lady  Chapel 
was,  as  usual,  in  the  choir  at  the  back  of  the  high  altar  ;f 
and  we  read  of  another  called  "  The  Abbot's  Chapel,"  to 
which  two  silver  candelabra  belonged.  J  There  was  an 
altar  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Cross,  §  which  is  specially  dis- 
tinguished from  the  High  Altar,  and  another  called  "  the 
Parish  Altar."  |{  "  In  the  southern  chapel  adjoining  to  the 
High  Altar"  %  were  those  of  St.  Andrew  and  St.  Catherine, 
founded  by  George  Creichton,  Bishop  of  Dunkeld,  who  by 

*  Eagman  Rolls,  p.  1G6. 

t  Father  Hay.  Lib.  Cart.  Sahct.  Crucis,  p.  xxiv.  In  the  Re- 
cords of  the  Burgh  of  the  Canongate  in  15G8,  however,  we  read 
of  "Our  Ladye  altar,  sumtyme  situat  within  the  Abbey  Kirk 
of  Halierudhous  within  the  Perroche  lie  therof,  to  which  the  '  Ladie 
land'  belonged."    Miscellany  of  Maitland  Club,  vol.  ii.  p.  318. 

J  BannatjTie  Miscellany,  vol.  ii.  p.  24.  This  may  have  been 
attached  to  the  abbot's  house  beyond  the  cloister. 

§  Bannatyne  Miscellany,  vol.  ii.  p.  24.  ||  Thlci 

%  Original  charter  as  given  in  Maitland's  EEist.  p.  154. 


1  6  HISTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

the  same  deed  erected  an  almshouse — that  of  St.  Tliomas, 
near  the  Watergate,  for  the  reception  of  seven  poor  men, 
who  were  to  be  under  the  control  of  the  chaplains  of  the 
said  two  altars,  and  who  upon  Sundays  and  festivals  were 
to  put  on  "  their  red  gowns,  and,  at  High  Mass,  sit  before 
the  altar  of  the  chapel  in  the  said  conventual  church,  and 
there  say  fifty  Ave  Marias,  five  Pater  Nosters,  and  one 
Credo."  Before  1387  there  was  an  altar  dedicated  to 
St.  Stephen,  "on  the  north  side  of  the  Parish  altar."* 
There  was  also  an  altar  dedicated  to  St.  Anne  by  the 
tailors  of  Edinburgh,  and  another  to  Saints  Crispin  and 
Crispinian  by  the  cordwainers  or  shoemakers  of  the  city. 
We  are  told,  but  upon  very  doubtful  authority,  that 
these  altars  were  erected  by  the  trades  on  the  return  of 
ceitain  of  their  members,  who  had  performed  prodigies  of 
valour  in  the  Holy  Land,  where,  we  are  informed,  the 
famous  "  Blue  Blanket,"  the  standard  of  the  bold  crafts- 
men of  Edinburgh,  had  waved,  conspicuous  in  the  van  of 
battle,  before  being  suspended  over  the  altar  of  St.  Eloi 
in  the  Church  of  St.  Giles. 

As  to  the  revenues  of  this  noble  Abbey,  all  that  our 
space  will  permit  us  to  state  is,  that  in  the  taxation  of 
ecclesiastical  benefices,  of  Edward  the  First's  time,  before 
alluded  to,  it  is  rated  at  £775:  14:  5i;t  and  that  its 
revenue  at  the  Reformation  amounted,  in  victual,  to  26 
chalders  10  bolls  of  wheat,  40  chalders  9  bolls  of  bear,  34 
chalders  15  bolls  3  firlots  3^  pecks  of  oats,  and  4  chal- 
ders of  meal,  while  the  revenue  in  money  payments  was 
£2926 :  8 :  6.  Considering  the  vast  possessions  of  the 
monastery  in  land  and  tithes,  the  latter  valuation  seems 
to  be  singularly  small. 

*  Indenture  in  the  City  Archives, 
t  Priory  of  Coldingham.    Append.,  p.  cxi. 


CEAPTEE  XL 


THE  ABBOTS  OF  HOLYROOD,  AND  EARLY 
HISTORY  OF  THE  ABBEY. 

)HE  first  Abbot  of  Hol}TOod  was  the  founder's 
confessor  Alwm,  who  resigned  the  Abbey  in 
i^  1150,  and  is  said  to  have  died  in  1155.  He  was 
succeeded  by  Osbert,  whose  death  occurred  in  the  year  of 
his  promotion,  but  his  name  is  not  in  the  list  of  abbots  in 
the  old  Ritual  Book.  William  was  Abbot  in  1152,  and  is 
a  frequent  ^vitness  to  charters  during  the  reigns  of  Malcolm 
IV.  and  William  the  Lion.  He  surrounded  the  Abbey  with 
a  strong  wall  of  squared  stone  to  secure  it  against  predatory 
assaults.*  During  Abbot  William's  rule,  Fergus,  then 
Lord  of  Galloway,  became  a  Canon  of  the  Abbey,  and  both 
he  and  his  son  Uchtred  were  benefactors  of  the  House. 
The  successor  of  William  was  Robert,  who  lived  also  in  the 
reign  of  WilHam  the  Lion ;  and  this  Abbot  granted  to  the 
inliabitants  of  the  newly  projected  burgh  of  the  Canon- 
gate  various  privileges,  which  were  confirmed  with  ad- 
ditional benefactions,  by  David  H.,  Robert  HI.,  James  H., 
and  James  IH.  Those  sovereigns  granted  to  the  bailies 
and  community  under  the  Abbots  the  annuities  payable 
by  the  burgh,  and  also  the  common  muir  between  the 

•  Father  Hay.     Lib.  Cart.  Sanct.  Cruc.  pref.  ZJC* 
B 


18  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

lands  of  Brougliton  on  the  west  and  the  lands  of  Pilrig 
on  the  east,  on  the  north  side  of  the  road  from  Edin- 
burgh to  Leith. 

The  fifth  Abbot  of  Holyrood  was  John,  who  presided 
over  the  monastery  in  1173.  A.D.  1180,  Alexius,  a 
Bub-deacon  of  the  Romish  Church,  held  a  council  in  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  near  Edinburgh.  The  princi- 
pal business  of  this  council  was  the  long  disputed  con- 
secration of  John  Scott,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrews.*  In 
1189,  the  first  year  of  the  reign  of  Bichard  I.  of  England, 
an  assembly  of  the  Scottish  Bishops,  rectors  of  churches, 
nobility,  and  barons,  was  held  in  the  monastery  of  Holy- 
rood.  Bichard,  who  had  invited  William  the  Lion  to  his 
court  at  Canterbury,  had  recognised  the  complete  in- 
dependence of  Scotland,  fixed  the  boundaries  of  the  two 
kingdoms  as  they  were  before  the  captivity  of  the  Scottish 
l^ng,  and  granted  him  full  possession  of  all  his  fees  in  the 
earldom  of  Huntingdon  and  elsewhere  on  the  same  con- 
ditions as  formerly.  It  was  agreed  in  this  national  con- 
vention that  William  the  Lion  was  to  pay  10,000  merks 
for  this  restitution — a  sum  supposed  to  be  equivalent  to 
L.  100,000  sterling  of  the  present  day.  Father  Hay, 
however,  states  that  the  stipulated  sum  was  only  5000 
merks.  f 

The  successor  of  John,  as  Abbot  of  Holyrood,  was 
William,  and  during  his  time,  in  1206,  John,  Bishop  of 
Galloway,  relinquished  his  episcopal  function,  and  became 
one  of  the  Canons.  He  was  interred  in  the  chapter  house, 
and  a  stone  recording  his  name  and  dignity  was  placed 
over  his  grave.  The  next  abbot  was  Walter,  Prior  of 
Incbcolm,  who  was  appointed  in  1210,  and  died  in  1217. 

*  Lord  Hailes.    Edit.  1819,  vol.  iii.  p.  229. 
f  Liber  Cartarum  Sancte  Crucis,  Preface,  p.  xxiL 


THE  ABBOTS  OP  HOLYROOD.  19 

He  was  a  man  distinguished  both  for  learning  and  piety. 
His  successor  was  William,  whose  retirement  is  alone 
recorded.  He  was  succeeded  by  another  "William,  who, 
in  1227,  on  account  of  old  age,  resigned  the  Abbacy  and 
retired  to  the  island  of  Inchkeith,  resolving  to  lead  the 
life  of  a  hermit ;  but  after  a  residence  of  nine  weeks  he 
returned  to  the  monastery  as  a  private  monk.  The  next 
Abbot  was  Hellas,  or  Elias,  described  as  the  son  of 
Nicolas  a  priest — pleasant,  devout,  and  affable,  and  who, 
according  to  Father  Hay,  was  interred  in  St.  Mary's 
Chapel,  behind  the  great  altar.  He  drained  the  marshes 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  monastery,  by  which  the  locality  was 
rendered  more  salubrious,  and  surrounded  the  cemetery 
with  a  brick  wall.  Helias  was  succeeded  by  Henry,  who 
was  nominated  Bishop  of  Galloway  in  1253,  though  he  was 
not  consecrated  till  1255.  Ealf,  or  Eadulph,  was  appointed 
Abbot  on  the  removal  of  Henry  to  the  see  of  Galloway. 
On  the  14th  of  January  1255,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander 
IH.,  an  assembly  was  held  at  HoljTOod,  in  which  the 
King,  with  advice  of  his  magnates,  settled  a  dispute  be- 
tween David  de  Leuchars,  Sherifif  of  Perth,  and  the  Abbey 
of  DunfermHne.* 

Towards  the  close  of  the  thu-teenth  century,  when 
the  wars  of  the  succession  spread  terror  and  confusion 
over  the  whole  land,  the  Abbot  of  Holyrood  was  Adam, 
an  adherent  of  the  English  party.  He  did  homage  to 
Edward  I.  on  the  8th  of  July  1291,  and  was  one  of  the 
commissioners  appointed  by  the  English  King  in  his  letter 
to  Eadulphus  Basset  de  Drayton,  Governor  of  Edinburgh 
Castle,  for  examuiing  the  Scottish  records  preserved  in 
that  fortress.  In  August  1296  he  again  did  homage  to 
Edward  I.,  and  it  was  apparently  in  his  favour  that  the 
•  Acts  of  lUe  Parhament  of  Scotland.    Fol.  1844^  vol.  L  p.  61, 


20  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

English  monarch  granted  an  order  for  the  restoration  of 
the  abbey  lands  on  the  2d  of  September  following. 

The  successor  of  Abbot  Adam  was  another  Helias, 
or  Ehas,  who  is  mentioned  in  a  transaction  connected 
with  William  Lamberton,  Bishop  of  St.  Andrews,  and 
Gervase,  Abbot  of  Newbattle,  in  1316.  Six  years  after- 
wards the  Abbey  of  Holyrood,  in  common  with  those  of 
Melrose  and  Dryburgh,  was  dilapidated  and  plundered 
by  the  army  of  Edward  IE.,  who  had  advanced  to  the 
vicinity  of  Edinburgh  without  opposition,  anticipating  the 
easy  conquest  of  a  kingdom,  from  which  famine  compelled 
him  to  retreat  with  dishonour. 

The  Abbot  in  1326  was  Symon,  supposed  to  have 
been  Symon  de  Wedale.  On  the  8th  of  March  that  year 
King  Kobert  Bruce,  who  had  then  gloriously  achieved 
tWguoii'ependence  of  Scotland,  held  a  Parliament  in  the 
*iing,  a,  in  which  was  ratified  a  concord  between  Eandolph, 
earld  of  Moray,  afterwards  Regent,  and  Sir  William  Oli- 
ditioit,  in  connexion  w>^  the  forfeiture  of  the  lands  of 
William  de  Monte  Alto,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  Par- 
liaments of  the  28th  of  February  and  the  17th  of  March 
1327  assembled  also  in  the  Abbey.  A  Parhament  was  held 
at  Holyrood  on  the  10th  of  February  1333-4,  when 
Edward  BaUol  rendered  homage  to  King  Edward  HI. 
of  England  as  Superior  Lord  of  Scotland.  On  the  12th 
the  kingdom  was  dismembered,  and  the  national  liberties 
surrendered,  by  the  ratification  of  a  treaty  between  Bahol 
and  Edward,  by  which  the  former  became  bound  to  serve 
with  his  forces  in  the  English  wars. 

The  successor  of  Abbot  Symon  was  John,  whoso 
name  occurs  as  a  witness  to  three  charters  in  1338  ;  and 
Bartholomew  was  Abbot  in  1342. 

Abbot  Bartholomew  was  succeeded  by  Thomas,  who 


THE  ABBOTS  OF  HOLYROOD.  21 

was  Abbot  in  1347.     On  the  8th  of  May  1366,  a  council 
was  held  at  llolyrood,  in  which  the  Scottish  nobles  indig- 
nantly disclaimed  all  the  pretensions  of  the  English  King 
to  the  sovereignty  of  Scotland,  and  sanctioned  an  assess- 
ment for  the  annual  payments  of  the  ransom  of  David  II. 
Nothing  important  occurs  in  the  history  of  the  Monastery 
till  1371,  when  David  II.  died  in  the  Castle  of  Edinburgli, 
and  was  buried  near  the  high  altar  in  the  Abbey  Church. 
In  1372  Edward  III.  granted  a  safe  conduct  to  certain 
persons  who  went  from  Scotland  to  Flanders  to  provide  a 
stone  for  the  tomb  of  David  II.*     John  was  Abbot  in 
1372.    John  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lancaster,  the  fourth 
8on  of  Edward  III.  by  Lady  Blanch,  younger  daughter 
and  heiress  of  Henry  Plantagenet,  Duke  of  Lancaster, 
grandson  of  Edmund,  second  son  of  Henry  IH.,  was 
hospitably  entertained  in  Holyrood  in  1381,  when  cora^ 
pelled  to  flee  from  his  enemies  in  England.     The  nex^,  ^ 
Abbot  was  David.      The  Abbey  was  bunio-Hch  opens  into 
Richard  11.  when  he  invaded  Scotland,  and 
at  Restalrig ;  but  it  appears  to  have  been  soon  Abbey ;  and 
and  inhabited.      Henry  IV.  spared  the  Monas'^rgaret  of 
1400,  on  account  of  the  kindness  of  the  Abbo.  he  him- 
Canons  to  John  of  Gaunt,  his  father,  declaring  thai   . 
would  allow  no  violence  to  be  inflicted  on  an  ediiicught 
which  his  feelings  as  a  son  enjoined  him  to   respect,   4, 
Dean  John  of  Leith  was  Abbot  in  1386,  and  he  must 
have  been  in  possession  a  number  of  years,  as  he  was  a 
party  to  the  indenture  of  the  lease  of  the  Canonmills  to 
the  burgh  of  Edinburgh  on  the  12th  of  September  1423. 
In  1429,  a  singular  spectacle  was  witnessed  in  the  Abbey 
Church  of  Holyrood.    Alexander,  Earl  of  Ross  and  Lord 

•  Rymer's  Feed,  vi  721. 


22  mSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

of  the  Isles,  who  had  enraged  James  I.  by  ravaging  the 
crown  lands  near  Inverness,  and  burning  that  town,  and 
whom  the  King  had  issued  stringent  orders  to  appre- 
hend, suddenly  appeared  in  the  church,  on  the  eve  of  a 
Bolemn  festival,  in  presence  of  the  King,  Queen,  and 
Court.  He  was  dressed  only  in  his  shirt  and  drawers ; 
and  holding  a  naked  sword  by  the  point  in  his  hand,  ho 
fell  on  his  knees  and  implored  the  royal  clemency.  His 
life  was  spared,  and  he  was  committed  prisoner  to  Tan- 
tallon  Castle,  under  the  charge  of  the  Earl  of  Angus. 

On  16th  October  1430  the  Queen  of  James  I.  was 
delivered  of  twin  princes  in  the  Abbey,  the  elder  of 
whom,  Alexander,  died  in  infancy.  The  younger  was 
James,  who  succeeded  his  father. 

Patrick  was  Abbot  of  Holyrood  in  September  1435. 

On  the  25th  of  March  1436-7,  James  IE.,  who  had  been 

Ju.:'^  in  the  Abbey,  and  was  then  little  more  than  six 

earld  of  Mora7a£  conveyed  from  Edinburgh  Castle  to  tlie 

ditioit,  in  c  Holyrood,  and  crowned  with  great  magnifi- 

William  d  Another  high  ceremony  was  performed  in  the 

liamentslace  in  July  1449,  when  Mary,  daughter  of  the 

1327  a^of  Gueldres,  and  Queen  of  James  H.,  was  crowned. 

at  Te  Queen  was  attended  by  the  Lord  de  Vere  of  Holland, 

EfVho  was  appointed  by  Philip  the  Good  of  Burgundy  to 

conduct  his  kinswoman  to  Scotland ;  and  when  she  landed 

at  Leith  she  was  received  by  many  of  the  nobility,  and 

by  a  large  concourse  of  all  ranks,  who  seemed  almost 

barbarians  to  the  polished  Burgundians.     The  Queen, 

mounted  on  horseback  behind  the  Lord  de  Vere,  rode  to 

Edinburgh,  and  was  lodged  in  the  Convent  of  the  Grey 

Friars.    In  the  course  of  a  week  after  her  arrival,  her 

nuptials  and  coronation  were  celebrated  in  the  Abbey 

Church,  with  all  the  pomp  and  ceremony  which  the  rude 


THE  ABBOTS  OF  HOLYROOt).  23 

taste  and  circumscribed  means  of  the  country  would  per- 
mit. 

On  the  26th  of  April  1450,  the  Abbot  of  Holyrood 
was  James,  of  whom  nothing  is  known.  Ten  years 
afterwards  the  body  of  James  II.,  who  was  killed  by  the 
bursting  of  one  of  the  rudely  constructed  cannon  of  tho 
time,  at  the  siege  of  Koxburgh  Castle;  was  interred  within 
the  precincts  of  the  Abbey.  Two  or  three  years  before 
this  event,  Archibald  Crawfurd,  son  of  Sir  William  Craw- 
furd  of  Haining,  and  who  had  been  Prior  of  Holyrood, 
succeeded  to  the  Abbacy.  He  was  a  distinguished  diplo- 
matist, and  was  employed  in  many  important  negociations 
between  the  sovereigns  of  England  and  Scotland.  In 
1474,  he  was  appointed  Lord  High  Treasurer;  and  died 
in  1483.  About  1460  Abbot  Crawfurd  repaired  the 
fabric  of  the  Abbey  Church,  adding  to  it  the  buttresses 
on  the  walls  of  the  north  and  south  aisles,  and,  in  all  pro- 
bability also,  building  the  rich  doorway  which  opens  into 
the  northern  aisle. 

James  HI.  passed  much  of  his  time  at  the  A.bbey ;  and 
on  the  13th  July  1469,  his  nuptials  with  Mrgaret  of 
Denmark  were  celebrated  in  the  Abbey  Church,  he  him- 
self "  being  of  the  aige  of  twcntie  ycires 
and  the  gentle voman  being  bot  twelfF."  Margaret  brought 
with  her  as  her  dowry  the  Islands  of  Orkney  and  Shetland, 
which  had  formerly  pertained  to  the  Danish  Crown. 

The  successor  of  Crawfurd  was  Robert  BcUenden,  an 
ecclesiastic  distinguished  by  his  humanity  to  the  poor,  and 
his  Hberality  to  the  Abbey.  Among  his  munificent  gifts 
were  the  "  great  bells,"  the  "  great  brass  font,"  *  and  a 
chalice  of  fine  gold, — and  he  covered  the  church  with  lead. 

*  This  is  probably  the  font,  which  Sir  Richard  Lea,  captain  of 
pioneers  in  the  Hertford  invasion,  carried  off  "  in  the  tumult  of 


24  mSTOKY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

In  his  time,  probably,  the  Abbey  Church  was  the  scene 
of  a  high  ceremonial,  when  the  Papal  Legate  and  the 
Abbot  of  Dunfermline,  amid  a  crowd  of  Scottish  nobles, 
in  name  of  Pope  Julius  II.,  presented  King  James  IV. 
with  a  purple  crown  ornamented  with  golden  flowers,  and 
a  sword,  of  which  the  hilt  and  sheath  were  rich  with  gold 
and  precious  stones,  and  wliich,  under  the  name  of  the 
"  Sword  of  State,"  is  still  preserved  among  the  Regalia  of 
Scotland  in  the  Castle  of  Edinburgh. 

In  1515  George  Crichtoun  was  Abbot,  and  continued 
60  till  1522,  when  he  was  made  Bishop  of  Dunkeld. 
William  Douglas,  Prior  of  Coldingham,  succeeded ;  and  on 
his  death,  in  1528,  Robert  Caimcross,  Provost  of  the  Col- 
legiate Church  of  Corstorphin,  and  chaplain  to  King  James, 
was  selected  for  the  office.  He  was  the  last  ecclesiastic 
of  the  ancient  hierarchy  who  held  the  abbacy  of  Holy- 
rood,  being  the  twenty-eighth  in  succession  from  Alwin, 
the  confessor  of  David  I.  He  vacated  the  office  in  1538  or 
1539,  when  postulated  to  the  see  of  Ross,  and  Robert,  the 
natural  son  of  James  V.  by  Eupham  Elphinstone,  obtained 
a  grant  of  the  Abbey,  while  still  an  infant.  He  embraced 
the  tenets  of  the  Reformed  Church  in  1559,  and  subse- 
quently exchanged  the  commendatorship  of  Holyrood  for 
the  temporalities  of  the  Bishopric  of  Orkney. 

the  conflagration,"  and  which  he  presented  to  the  Church  of  St. 
Albans,  with  the  magniloquent  inscription  engraved  on  it,  wliich 
Camden  has  preserved.  The  Scottish  font  is  made  most  unpatriot- 
ically  to  say  [luckily  in  Latin] — "  In  gratitude  to  hira  for  hia 
kindness,  I,  who  hitherto  served  only  at  the  baptism  of  the  chil- 
dren of  kings,  do  now  most  willingly  offer  the  same  service  even 
to  the  meanest  of  the  English  nation.  Lea,  the  Conqueror,  hath 
to  commanded."  This  font  was  afterwards  conquered  by  the 
Roundheads,  and  sold  as  old  metaL 


CHAPTER  III. 


MARRIAGE  OF  JAMES  IV.  WITH  MARGARET 
OF  ENGLAND. 

r^r|rra)HE  chivalrous  but  ill-fated  James  the  Fourth  ^as 
^ilF^  the  first  of  our  kings  who  built  a  palace  adjacent 
^^^^  to  the  Abbey  of  Holyrood.  No  sooner  was  the 
royal  dwelling  fit  for  habitation,  than  the  bride  of  its 
founder  stepped  across  the  thresliold — that  English  Prin- 
cess from  w^hom  were  to  descend  the  sovereigns  of  the 
great  British  empire.  On  the  7th  of  August  1503,  ]\Iar- 
garet,  with  her  train  of  English  nobles,  entered  the  me- 
tropolis of  her  adopted  country,  and  was  received  with 
the  respect  due  to  the  daughter  of  Henry  VII.  The 
"  Fyancells"  of  tlie  Princess  in  the  royal  manor  of  Rich- 
mond on  St.  Paul's  Day,  the  25th  of  January  1502,  her 
departure  from  England,  her  journey  into  Scotland,  her 
reception  and  marriage,  are  narrated  with  the  garrulous 
minuteness  of  his  profession,  by  John  Younge,  Somerset 
Herald,  who  attended  her  during  her  progress.  The  Prin- 
cess began  her  journey  northwards  on  the  27th  of  June 
1503,  and  travelled  by  easy  stages,  chiefly  on  horseback, 
though  she  had  a  "rych  lytere  borne  by  two  faire 
coursers  varey  nobly  drest,"  and  also  a  char  or  coach  for 
her  use.  On  her  approach  to  the  Scottish  Border  she  was 
escorted  and  entertained  with  the  respect  due  to  her 


^6  HISTORY  OF  HOLYKOOD. 

exalted  rank.  She  was  met  at  Lamberton  cliurcli,  near 
tlie  English  Border,  by  the  Scottish  nobility,  "  a  thousand 
persons  in  company,"  five  hundred  of  whom  were  on 
horseback.  Her  stages  in  Scotland  were  Fast  Castle, 
Haddington,  and  Dalkeith,  the  Earl  of  Morton's  Castle, 
where  James  IV.  first  met  her,  accompanied  by  "  a  train 
of  lords  to  the  number  of  sixty  horses."  The  King  re- 
turned to  Edinburgh  that  evening,  and  the  Princess  re- 
mained four  days,  partly  in  the  Castle  of  Dalkeith,  and 
partly  in  the  adjoining  Abbey  of  Newbattle,  where  she 
was  daily  visited  by  her  royal  bridegroom.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  7th  of  August,  the  Princess  set  out  for  Edin- 
burgh in  her  litter,  and  the  King  met  her  half-way,  splen- 
didly arrayed,  *'  upon  a  bay  horse,  renn}Tige  as  he  wolde 
renne  after  the  hajTe,"  and  followed  by  Archbishop 
Blackadder  of  Glasgow,  Bishop  Foreman  of  Moray,  and 
a  numerous  cavalcade.  Finding  that  his  own  courser 
would  not  carry  double,  the  King  dismounted  and 
leaped  gallantly  into  the  saddle  of  the  palfrey  of  the 
Princess,  placing  her  close  behind  him,  and  in  this  man- 
ner they  entered  Edinburgh,  amid  rejoicings  and  fan- 
tastic pageants ;  a  fountain  of  wine,  which  was  free  to 
all,  playing  at  the  Cross,  and  the  windows  of  the  houses 
being  gorgeously  ornamented  with  tapestry.  The  alle- 
gorical figui'es  displayed  were  "  Paris  and  the  three 
Deessys"  or  goddesses,  which  were  oddly  blended  with 
the  Salutation  of  the  Angel  Gabriel  to  the  Virgin,  and  the 
four  Virtues.  When  the  King  and  his  bride  passed  St. 
Giles's  church,  the  provost  and  prebendaries  appeared  in 
their  vestments,  and  presented  the  reputed  arm  of  the 
tutelary  saint  of  the  city,  which  the  King  kissed,  and  then 
began  to  sing  Te  Deum  Laudamus.  Before  arriving  at 
this  locality  the  King  had  to  encounter  the  Grey  Friara  at 


MARRIAGE  OF  JAMES  IV.  27 

the  foot  of  the  West  Bow,  who  issued  from  their  monas- 
tery also  armed  with  rehcs. 

The  royal  pair  proceeded  through  the  city  on  horse- 
back  to  the  Church  of  Holyrood,  and  the  proceedings 
when  they  entered  within  its  walls  are  duly  chronicled  by 
the  loyal  Somerset  Herald.  They  were  met  at  the  church 
by  the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews,*  attended  by  the 
Bishop  of  Aberdeen,  Lord  Privy  Seal,t  the  Bishops  of 
Orkney,  Caithness,  Eoss,  Dunblane,  and  Dunl^eld,  a  num- 
ber of  abbots  in  their  pontificals,  and  the  Abbot  and 
Canons  of  Holyrood  in  gorgeous  vestments,  preceded  by 
their  cross. 

The  whole  cavalcade  dismounted,  and  entered  the 
Abbey  Church  in  procession.  The  King  took  the  hand 
of  the  Princess,  and  after  an  humble  reverence  led  her  to 
the  high  altar,  where  two  cushions  covered  with  cloth  of 
gold  were  placed,  and  the  King  and  his  bride  knelt 
together,  while  Te  Deum  was  sung  by  the  choir.  Having 
performed  their  devotions,  the  King  in  a  most  loving 
manner  conducted  the  Princess  out  of  the  church  "  through 
the  cloister"  to  her  apartments  in  the  adjoining  Palace. 
After  a  brief  space  the  Princess  was  brought  by  the  King 
into  the  great  hall,  where  she  was  introduced  to  a  nume- 
rous company  of  Scottish  ladies  of  rank,  each  of  whom 
she  kissed,  the  Bishop  of  Moray  attending  her  and  telling 
her  their  names ;  after  which  ceremony  the  Kmg  again 
saluted  her,  and  with  low  courtesy,  and  uncovered,  he 
conducted  her  to  her  apartments.  He  supped  in  his 
private  chamber  with  the  Archbishop  of  York,  the  Bishop 

*  James,  Duke  of  Rosa,  brother  of  the  King,  who  died  thi« 
same  year. 

t  The  aiustrious  WUUam  Elphinestone,  founder  of  King's 


28  HISTORY  OF  HOLYEOOD. 

of  Durham,  the  Earl  of  Surrey  [lie  who  afterwards  mot 
liim  on  the  fatal  field  of  Flodden]  and  other  attendants  of 
the  Princess.  The  King  then  retired,  after  Lidding  tho 
Princess  "  jo3^ously  good  night." 

On  the  8th  the  royal  nuptials  were  celebrated  at 
Hol}TOod.  Between  eight  and  nine  in  the  morning,  tho 
nobility,  convened  on  the  occasion,  were  arrayed  in 
rich  apparel,  and  duly  prepared  for  the  important  cere- 
monial. The  precincts  of  Holyrood  were  crowded  with 
spectators,  who  displayed  the  utmost  animation  and 
excitement.  The  Bishop  of  Moray  waited  on  the  Arch- 
bishop of  York  and  the  Bishop  of  Durham.  Tlie  Earl 
of  Surrey,  Lords  Grey,  Latimer,  Dacres,  and  Scroope, 
Sir  Kichard  Poole,  Ivnight  of  the  Garter,  Sir  Davis 
Owen,  Sir  William  Conyers,  Sir  Thomas  D'Arcy,  Sir 
John  Huse,  and  other  noblemen  and  knights,  appeared 
in  splendid  dresses,  wearing  their  collars  and  chains  of 
gold,  and  were  presented  by  the  Bishop  of  Moray  to  the 
King,  who  received  them,  standing,  in  his  great  chamber. 
After  the  usual  salutations,  the  King  ordered  them  to  bo 
seated,  and  to  cover  their  heads,  placing  the  Archbishop 
of  York  on  his  right  hand,  and  the  Earl  of  Surrey  on  his 
left.  The  King  himself  occupied  a  chair  of  crimson 
velvet,  the  panels  of  which  were  gilt,  under  a  superb 
cloth  of  estate,  of  blue  velvet  figured  with  gold.  Dr. 
Raulins  delivered  an  oration,  which  was  briefly  answered 
by  Dr.  Muirhead,  Dean  of  Glasgow,  the  King's  Secretary; 
and  at  the  conclusion  every  person  present  rendered 
homage  or  reverence  to  the  King,  who  then  withdrew  to  his 
OAvn  apartments  in  the  Palace.  The  Archbishop  of  St. 
Andrews  and  the  Bishop  of  Aberdeen  then  conducted  the 
ladies,  noblemen,  and  knights  to  the  bride's  chambers ; 
and  soon  afterwards  the  Princess  entered  the  Abbey 


MARRIAGE  OF  JAME3  tV.  29 

Churcli  in  bridal  array,  wearing  a  golden  crown  set  with 
pearls  and  other  jewels  of  great  price,  siii)ported  on  the 
right  by  the  Archbishop  of  York,  and  on  the  left  by  the 
Earl  of  Surrey,  her  train  borne  by  the  Countess  of  Surrey 
assisted  by  a  gentleman-usher,  and  attended  by  numerous 
ladies. 

The  Princess  was  placed  near  the  font,  her  attend- 
ants occupying  the  north  side  of  the  church ;  and  the 
Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  accompanied  by  other  prelates 
and  ecclesiastical  dignitaries,  stationed  himself  at  the 
high  altar.  The  King  next  appeared,  with  the  Officers  of 
State,  and  a  large  assemblage  of  nobility.  Lord  Hamilton 
carrying  the  sword.  The  Archbishop  of  York  read  the 
papal  bulls,  and  the  marriage  ceremony  was  performed  by 
the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow.  The  King  then  led  tlie 
Queen  to  the  high  altar,  and  divine  service  was  performed 
with  all  the  pomp  of  the  Roman  ritual.  At  the  reading 
of  the  Gospel  the  royal  pair  made  their  offering,  the  Queen 
was  anointed,  and  the  sceptre  was  placed  in  her  hand  by 
the  I^ng.  The  hymn  Te  Deum  was  then  sung,  and 
during  the  celebration  of  mass,  the  cloth  of  estate  was 
held  over  the  now  wedded  pair  by  two  of  the  Bishops. 

A  banquet  was  given  in  the  Palace,  at  which  the 
Queen  was  first  served,  and  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow 
had  the  honour  of  an  invitation  to  her  table.  A  "  lar- 
gesse" was  then  proclaimed  three  times  by  Marchmont 
Herald  in  the  King's  chamber,  the  great  hall,  and  the  hall 
of  audience,  "  in  name  of  the  high  and  mighty  Princess 
Margaret,  by  the  grace  of  God  Queen  of  Scotland,  and  first 
daughter  engendered  of  the  very  high  and  mighty  Prince 
Henry  VII.,  by  that  self-same  grace  King  of  England." 
Some  details  follow  of  the  internal  decorations  and  furni- 
ture of  Holyrood,  and  of  the  amusements  of  the  marriage 


30  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

party,  such  as  games,  dances,  and  the  musical  efforts  of 
"  Johannes  and  his  company,"  after  which  the  King  went 
to  vespers  in  the  Abbey  Church  attended  both  by  the 
Scottish  and  English  nobility,  the  Queen  remaining  in  the 
Palace.  This  was  succeeded  by  a  supper,  which  con- 
cluded the  festivities  of  the  day,  while  the  citizens  of 
Edinburgh  evinced  their  loyalty  by  numerous  bonfires  and 
other  demonstrations.  In  the  evening,  probably,  the  King's 
person  had  been  the  object  of  the  ceremonial  indicated  by 
an  entry  of  the  following  day's  date,  in  the  Treasurer's 
accounts,  of  £330  paid  "  for  xv.  elne  claith  of  gold  to  the 
Comites  (countess)  of  Surry,  of  Ingland,  quhen  scho  and 
her  dochter  Lady  Gray  clippit  the  Kingis  berde,  ilk  elne 
xxii.  Kb." 

On  the  9th  a  numerous  assemblage  of  ladies,  noblemen, 
and  knights,  convened  at  Holyrood.  At  ten  in  the  morn- 
ing the  King  went  to  mass  in  the  Abbey  Church  in  pro- 
cession. The  subsequent  amusements  of  this  day  are  not 
recorded,  "with  the  exception  that  the  royal  dinner  was 
"  brought  and  served  in  silver  vessels  by  the  officers  and 
personages  in  such  manner  as  the  day  before."  "  After 
dinner  a  young  man,  an  Italian,"  continues  the  worthy 
Somerset  Herald,  "  played  before  the  King  on  a  cord  very 
well."  The  ladies  were  at  the  windows  towards  the 
Queen's  quarters,  and  after  the  game  was  done  they  began 
to  dance.  "  Touching  the  Queen,  I  say  nothing,  for  that 
same  day  I  saw  her  not,  but  I  understand  she  was  in 
good  health  and  mere  [more]."  A  supper  followed,  the 
profusion  of  which  was  by  no  means  in  accordance  with  a 
day  enjoined  by  the  church  to  be  observed  in  abstinence. 

On  the  10th,  which  was  St.  Laurence's  Day,  the  King, 
in  compliment  to  the  Queen,  created  forty-one  knights, 
and  after  the  ceremony  he  presented  them  to  his  consort, 


MARRIAGE  OF  JAMES  IV.  31 

saying — "Lady,  these  are  your  knights."  After  dinner 
a  tilting  match  was  held  in  the  conrt-yard  of  the  Palace, 
which  the  King  witnessed  from  the  richly  decorated 
windows,  and  the  Queen  and  her  ladies  were  also  spec- 
tators. The  challengers  were  Lords  Kilmaurs  and  Crei- 
toun,  assisted  by  Sir  Alexander  Seton,  the  Master  of 
Montgomery,  Sir  Patrick  Hamilton,  and  Sir  John  of  Crey- 
toun.  Their  opponents  were  Lords  Hamilton  and  Ross, 
the  former  the  King's  cousin,  attended  by  Sir  David 
Home,  William  Cockburn  of  Langton,  Patrick  Sinclair, 
and  Henry  Bruce.  After  the  tournament  the  King  and 
Queen  retired  to  supper,  and  the  festivities  of  the  day 
concluded  with  dancing. 

On  the  11th  the  King  again  went  to  the  Abbey 
Church.  The  Queen  remained  in  her  apartment  till  the 
hour  of  dinner,  after  which  she  danced  with  the  King, 
and  a  tilting  match  was  performed  by  six  persons,  the 
royal  pair  beholding  the  rencontre  from  the  windows  of 
the  Palace.  After  supper  "  John  Inglish  and  hys  com- 
panyons"  played  in  the  Queen's  principal  apartment 
before  the  royal  pair.  Tlie  12th  was  spent  in  a  similar 
manner,  the  King  as  usual  attending  the  Abbey  Church  ; 
and  on  the  13th,  which  was  Sunday,  the  Queen  was  led 
to  mass  by  the  Bishops,  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  the  Lord 
Chamberlain,  and  her  ladies,  the  train  of  the  Countess  of 
Surrey  borne  by  Sir  John  Home.  The  King  followed, 
and  after  mass  the  Marchmont  Herald  presented  Lord 
Hamilton,  who  was  created  Earl  of  An-an  ;  and  honours 
were  conferred  on  William,  Earl  of  Montrose,  and  Cuth- 
bert.  Earl  of  Glencairn.  The  King  and  the  Queen  then 
returned  into  the  Palace,  and  the  Earl  of  Surrey  and 
others  of  the  nobihty  dined  at  the  royal  table.  After 
dinner  "  a  moralitie  was  played  by  the  said  Master 


32  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

Inglishe  and  his  companyons  in  the  presence  of  the  Kyng 
and  Quene,  and  their  daunces  were  daunced."  At  the 
customary  hour  the  King  went  to  vespers,  after  which  it 
was  intended  to  create  twenty-six  knights,  but  on  account 
of  the  absence  of  the  Queen  this  was  delayed  till  the 
following  day  for  the  "  luflfe  of  hyr."  After  vespers  the 
King  entered  his  apartments  in  the  Palace,  and  sat  down 
to  supper,  and,  "  that  done,  every  man  went  his  way." 

Such  was  the  royal  marriage  at  Holyrood  in  1503, 
which  is  celebrated  by  the  Scottish  poet  Dunbar  in  his 
fine  allegory  entitled  the  "  Thistle  and  the  Rose." 

Some  of  the  internal  decorations  of  the  Palace  of 
HoljTOod  are  casually  mentioned  by  the  English  Herald. 
The  hangings,  or  tapestry,  of  the  "  great  chamber  "  re- 
presented the  "hystory  of  Troy  toune,"  and  "in  the 
glassyn  windowes  were  the  armes  of  Scotland  and  England 
byparted,  with  the  difference  beforesayd,  to  which  a 
chardon,  and  a  rose  interlassed  through  a  croune,  was 
added."  In  the  Eng's  "  great  chamber  "  were  displayed 
the  "story  of  Hercules  togider  with  other  hystorys." 
The  hall  in  which  the  Queen's  attendants  and  company 
were  assembled  also  contained  the  history  of  Hercules  on 
tapestry;  and  in  both  the  apartments  were  "  grett  syergcs 
of  wax  for  to  lyght  at  even." 

Holyrood  was  the  chief  residence  of  James  IV.,  on  the 
erection  and  embellishment  of  which  he  expended  con- 
siderable sums  up  to  the  period  of  his  death  at  Floddcn 
in  1513.  In  1515,  John,  Duke  of  Albany,  Governor  of 
the  kingdom  during  the  minority  of  James  V.,  resided  in 
Holyrood  after  his  arrival  from  France,  and  continued 
tlie  deceased  King's  enlargement  of  the  edifice. 


CHAPTEE  IV. 


JAMES  V.  AT  HOLYROOD. 

?N  tliG  2Cth  of  July  1524,  James  V.,  then  in  his 
thirteenth  year,  and  his  mother,  the  Queen- 
Dowager,  suddenly  left  Stirling,  accompanied 
by  a  few  attendants,  and  entered  Edinburgh,  where  they 
were  received  with  great  acclamations  by  the  citizens, 
and  went  in  procession  to  the  Palace  of  Holyrood, 
"where,"  says  Pitscottie,  "he  tuik  up  hous,  with  all 
office  men  requisite  for  his  estate,  and  changed  all  the 
old  officeris,  both  tresaurer,  comptroller,  secreitar,  Mr. 
Maissar,  Mr.  Household,  Mr.  Stableris,  copperis,  car- 
veris,  and  all  the  rest."  Proclamations  were  issued 
announcing  that  the  King  had  assumed  the  govern- 
ment; but  his  actual  and  independent  authority  was 
not  exercised  till  four  years  afterwards,  when  he  was 
in  his  seventeenth  year;  and  during  that  interval  the 
Queen-Dowager,  Archbishop  Beaton  of  St.  Andrews,  who 
had  filled  the  high  office  of  Lord  Chancellor,  and  the 
Earl  of  Angus,  the  successor  of  the  Archbishop,  were 
actually,  though  not  in  name,  the  Regents.  After  the 
display  at  Holyrood,  the  Queen-Dowager  retamed  the 
young  monarch  in  the  Castle  of  Edinburgh  without  any 
personal  restraint ;  the  Archbishop  and  Angus  conduct- 
ing public  affairs.  The  latter  marked  the  first  com* 
G 


84  HISTORY  OP  nOLYROOD. 

mencement  of  his  authority  by  assigning  the  Abbey  of 
Holyrood,  in  1524,  to  his  brother  William  Douglas,  who 
was  already  the  intruding  possessor  of  Coldingham,  and 
who  retained  both  till  his  death  in  1528,  the  year  in 
which  James  V.  began  to  reign  in  person.  In  1534,  the 
future  Cardinal  David  Beaton,  then  Abbot  of  Arbroath, 
and  the  administrator  of  the  affairs  of  the  primacy  for 
his  uncle  ^Yllom  he  succeeded,  was  a  second  time  sent  to 
France  on  a  mission  to  renew  the  alliance  with  Scotland, 
and  to  adjust  the  preliminaries  of  the  marriage  of  James 
V.  Before  his  departure  he  secured  the  appointment  of 
an  ecclesiastical  commission  for  the  cognizance  of  heretics 
— which  was  by  no  means  difficult,  for  the  King  had  pub- 
licly declared  his  resolution  to  punish  all  innovators  of 
religion,  and  not  to  spare  even  his  owm  relatives.  In  the 
month  of  August  1534  a  meeting  of  this  ecclesiastical 
court  was  held  in  the  Abbey  of  Holyrood,  at  which 
James  V.  was  present,  clothed  in  scarlet.  James  Hay, 
Bishop  of  Ross,  in  the  absence  of  the  Abbot  of  Arbroath, 
sat  as  commissioner  for  the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews. 
Several  persons  were  cited  before  this  court,  some  of 
whom  recanted,  and  performed  the  ceremony  of  burning 
their  faggots.  The  brother  and  sister  of  Patrick  Hamil- 
ton, who  had  been  incremated  for  heresy  at  St.  Andrews, 
were  summoned;  but  the  King  advised  the  former  to 
leave  Scotland  for  a  time,  as  he  could  not  save  him — the 
Bishops,  he  alleged,  having  proved  to  him  tliat  heresy 
was  not  within  his  prerogative.  The  lody,  however, 
appeared,  and  a  long  theological  discussion  ensued  be- 
tween her  and  Spens  of  Condie,  afterwards  Lord  Advo- 
cate, on  the  subject  of  good  works.  The  King  laughed 
aloud  at  the  zeal  of  the  fair  disputant,  who  was  his  near 
relative,  and  his  influence  saved  her  from  farther  trouble. 


JAMES  V.   AT  IIOLYROOD.  85 

Nevertheless,  two  convictions  were  pronounced  on  this 
occasion  in  the  Abbey  of  Ilolyrood.  The  unfortunate 
persons  were  David  Straiton,  tlie  brother  of  the  Laird  of 
Lauriston  in  Forfarshire,  and  a  priest  named  Normail 
Gourlay,  or  Galloway.  They  were  led  to  the  stake  on 
the  27th  of  August,  at  the  rood  or  cross  of  Greonside,  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Calton  Hill,  where  they  met  their 
fate  with  wonderful  resolution. 

On  the  29th  of  October  153G  it  was  determined  that 
James  V.  should  marry  the  youthful  Princess  Magdalene, 
daughter  of  Francis  I.  of  France ;  and  on  the  2Gth  of  No- 
vember the  perpetual  alliance  between  France  and  Scotland 
was  renewed.  James  had  previously  thought  of  marrying 
the  daughter  of  the  Duke  do  Vondome,  and  went  over  to 
France,  as  Pitscottio  says,  "to  spy  her  pulchritud"  before 
making  up  his  mind.  The  King  of  France,  however,  re- 
ceived James  with  extraordinaiy  kindness,  and  his  eldest 
daughter  Magdalene,  although  she  was  "  seiklio,"  yet, 
"  frae  the  tyme  shoe  saw  the  King  of  Scotland,  and  spak 
with  him,  shoe  became  so  enamoured  with  him,  and  loved 
him  BO  Weill,  that  she  wold  have  no  man  alive  to  hir 
husband  bot  he  allanerlie." 

On  the  1st  of  January  1536-7,  James  accordingly  was 
married  to  this  Princess  in  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  at 
Paris,  in  the  presence  of  the  Kings  of  France  and  Na- 
varre, several  Cardinals,  and  a  brilliant  assemblage  of 
rank  and  beauty.  On  the., 19th  of  May,  the  eve  of  \Vliit- 
sunday,  James  V.  and  Magdalene  aiTived  at  Leith  ;  "  and 
when  the  Queeno  was  cum  upoun  Scottish  eard  [earth], 
she  bowed  her  doun  to  the  same,  and  kissed  the  mould 
thairof;"  and  then  the  royal  pair  proceeded  to  the  Palace 
of  Holyroo.l,  amid  the  acclamations  of  an  enthusiastic 
multitude.    But  disease  had  undermined  the  constitution 


36  mSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

of  the  young  Queen;  and  within  forty  days  she  was 
carried  a  lifeless  corpse  to  the  Abbey  Church  of  Holy- 
rood,  and  buried  close  to  the  spot  where  the  remains  of 
James  himself  were  afterwards  deposited.  So  intense 
was  the  national  grief  at  the  untimely  death  of  the  young 
Queen,  that  it  appears  the  mourning  dress  was  generally 
adopted,  the  first  instance,  according  to  Buchanan,  of  its 
being  worn  in  Scotland. 

The  second  Queen  of  James  V.  was  Mary  of  Guise, 
the  mother  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  She  was  married 
to  the  King  in  the  Cathedral  Church  of  St.  Andrews,  in 
June  1538,  but  she  was  cro\vned  in  the  Abbey  Church. 
She  appears  to  have  resided  but  seldom  in  Holyrood,  the 
Palace  of  Linlithgow,  her  jointure  house,  being  her  fa- 
vourite abode.  She  bore  two  sons  to  the  King,  both  of 
whom  died  in  infancy,  and  were  interred  in  the  royal 
vault  of  Holyrood. 

After  the  shameful  flight  of  his  army  on  the  shore  of 
the  Solway  Frith,  James  V.  avoiding  Holyrood  Palace, 
proceeded  to  Falkland,  where  he  expired  on  the  14th  of 
December  1542,  seven  days  after  the  birth  of  his  only 
surviving  child  and  successor,  Queen  Mary — an  event 
which  afforded  him  no  consolation,  but  rather  increased 
the  anguish  of  his  last  momente. 


CHAPTER  T. 


i 


QUEEN  MARY  AT  HOLYROOD 

HE  Palace  became  the  ordinary  residence  ol  Queen 
^vIFS  Mary  after  her  return  to  her  native  country  in 
^  1561,  and  then  occurred  those  events  which  in- 
eeparably  connect  Holyrood  with  the  life  of  the  beautiful 
"  Queen  of  Scots,"  and  invest  its  venerable  apartments 
with  a  thrilling  interest.  Here  Mary  first  reposed  after 
her  arrival  from  the  gay  land  of  France,  which  she  so 
loved  and  regretted;  here  she  was  married  to  Lord 
Damley ;  here  Riccio  was  murdered,  almost  at  her  feet ; 
here  was  the  scene  of  her  fatal  nuptials  with  Both  well ; 
here  she  laid  down  her  troubled  head,  the  captive  of  her 
own  subjects,  on  the  eventful  night  before  she  was  com- 
mitted to  the  Castle  of  Lochleven;  in  these  halls,  at 
many  a  royal  entertainment,  she  enchanted  all  that  be- 
held her  by  the  loveHness  of  her  person,  and  the  graces 
of  her  manner  ;  and  here,  too,  bom  in  overtrying  times, 
she  had  to  endure  those  memorable  and  distressing  inter- 
views with  the  fiery  and  uncompromising  leaders  of  the 
Scottish  Reformation.  This  is  not  the  place  to  canvass 
the  character  of  the  Queen — to  weigh  her  virtues  and  her 
errors  nicely  in  the  balance.  The  "  genius  loci"  forbids 
Buch  an  inquisition.  A  describer  of  Holyrood  beholds 
Mary  Stuart  only  as  that  lovely,  suffering,  intensely  in- 


38  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

teresting  woman,  whose  personal  charms  and  tragical 
death  have  drawn  eloquence  from  the  pens  of  so  many 
illustrious  historians,  and  whose  beautiful  countenance  haj 
peered  through  the  day-dreams  of  so  many  of  Europe's 
mightiest  poets. 

Queen  Mary  landed  at  Leith  as  Sovereign  of  Scotland 
in  her  own  right,  and  youthful  Dowager  of  France,  on 
the  morning  of  the  19th  of  August  1561.  The  Queen 
had  successfully  eluded  Elizabeth's  projects  to  intercept 
her  at  sea,  but  her  early  arrival  on  the  19tli  was  unex- 
pected, and  the  weather  was  so  dark  and  stormy  that  the 
ships  when  they  anchored  in  Leith  Roads  were  not  seen 
from  the  land.  Mary  was  accompanied  by  her  three 
uncles,  the  Duke  d'Aumale,  the  Marquis  d'Elbeuf,  and 
the  Grand  Prior  of  France,  as  far  as  Calais,  and  to 
Scotland  by  the  Seigneur  de  Damville,  heir  of  the  Con- 
Btable  Montmorency,  and  several  French  gentlemen  of 
inferior  note.  Among  the  number  was  Peter  de  Bour- 
deille,  well  known  as  the  Sieur  de  Brantome,  of  which 
he  was  Abbot.  The  Queen  arrived  in  the  roads  at  six 
in  the  morning,  and  at  ten  o'clock  "hir  Hienes  landit 
upoun  the  schoir  of  Leith,  and  remanit  in  Andro  Lambia 
hous  be  the  space  of  ane  hour,  and  thairefter  was  con- 
voyit  up  to  hir  palice  of  Halyrudhous."  *  The  Queen's 
"honourable  reception"  at  Leith  by  the  Earl  of  Argyll, 
Lord  Erskine,  Lord  James  Stuart,  and  others,  who  con- 
veyed her  to  Holyrood,  is  mentioned  by  contemporary 
writers,  and  I^ox  records  the  "fires  of  joy  set  furth  all 
night,"  and  a  serenade  with  which  she  was  regaled  under 
her  "  chalmer  window."  The  "melodic,"  she  said,  " lyked 
her  Weill,  and  she  willed  the  same  to  be  continued  somo 
nychts  efter  with  grit  diligence."  Pitscottie  says,  "  The 
*  Diiirnal  of  Occiurenta  in  Scotland,  p.  66, 


QUEEN  MARY  AT  HOLYROOD.  39 

Qneine  maid  hir  entres  in  Edinburgh  as  the  lyk  was  not 
Beino  befoir,  shoe  was  so  gorgeouslie  and  magnificentlio 
received."*  One  of  Mary's  attendants  thought  very  dif- 
ferently of  the  display,  and  more  especially  of  the  music 
of  the  Scottish  minstrels.  The  Queen,  he  says,  rode  on 
horseback  from  Leith  to  Edinburgh,  and  "  the  lords  and 
ladies  who  accompanied  her  upon  the  little  wretched 
hackneys  of  the  country  as  wretchedly  caparisoned,  at 
sight  of  which  the  Queen  began  to  weep,  and  to  compare 
them  with  the  pomp  and  superb  palfreys  of  France. 
There  was  no  remedy  but  patience.  Wliat  was  worst  of 
all,  when  arrived  at  Edinburgh,  and  retired  to  rest  in  the 
Abbey,  which  is  really  a  fine  building,  and  not  at  all  par- 
taking of  the  rudeness  of  that  country,  there  came  under 
her  window  a  crew  of  five  or  six  hundred  scoundrels  from 
the  city,  who  gave  her  a  serenade  with  wretched  violins 
and  little  rebecks,  of  which  there  are  enough  in  that 
country,  and  began  to  sing  psalms  so  miserably  mistimed 
and  mistuned,  that  nothing  could  be  worse.  Alas  !  what 
music,  and  what  a  night's  rest  1 " 

When  Queen  Mary  arrived  at  Holyrood  from  Leith 
on  the  19th  of  August,  the  only  person  of  distinction 
waiting  to  receive  her  was  Lord  Robert  Stuart,  one  of  her 
illegitimate  brothers,  whose  residence,  as  Lay-Abbot  or 
Commendator,  was  within  the  precincts  of  the  Palace. 
The  Queen  went  to  his  house,  and  issued  orders  to  as- 
semble the  nobility,  who  had  been  previously  summoned 
to  meet  on  the  last  day  of  that  month.  Probably  Lord 
Robert's  house  was  the  only  one  suitable  for  her  tem- 
porary reception,  for,  though  the  Queen  brought  her 
jewels  with  her,  her  tapestry  and  other  furniture  for  the 
Palace  did  not  arrive  till  some  days  afterwards,  and  her 
*  Pitscottie,  vol.  ii.  p.  559. 


40  HISTORY  OF  IlOLYllOOD. 

horses  were  detained  at  Berwick.  The  trials  and  morti- 
fications which  Mary  was  doomed  to  suffer  on  account  of 
her  adherence  to  the  Romish  Cliurch  were  made  manifest 
so  early  as  the  first  Sunday  after  her  arrival,  which  was 
St.  Bartholomew's  Day,  the  24th  of  August.  Preparations 
were  made  to  celebrate  mass  in  the  Chapel-Royal,  at 
which  the  Queen  was  to  be  present,  and  no  sooner  was 
this  known  than  a  mob  rushed  towards  the  edifice,  ex- 
claiming— "  Shall  the  idol  be  again  erected  in  the  land?" 
Men  of  rank  encouraged  this  riot,  and  Lord  Lindsay, 
along  with  some  gentlemen  of  Fife,  pressed  into  the  court 
of  the  Palace,  shouting — "  The  idolatrous  priests  shall  dio 
the  death!"  The  Queen,  astonished  and  trembling,  re- 
quested her  illegitimate  brother  Lord  James  Stuart,  then 
Prior  of  St.  Andrews,  who  was  in  attendance,  to  allay  the 
tumult.  With  the  utmost  difficulty,  notwithstanding  his 
popularity  as  a  leading  Reformer,  he  restrained  the  fury 
of  the  mob,  and  though  the  service  was  continued  in 
quietness,  at  its  conclusion  new  disorders  were  excited. 

On  the  31st  of  August  a  banquet  was  given  to  Mary 
and  her  relatives  by  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  and  on  the  2d 
of  September  the  Queen  made  her  public  entry,  and  dined 
in  the  Castle  "  at  Twelf  houris."  On  the  same  day  John 
Knox  had  an  audience  of  Mary,  who  had  been  informed 
of  a  furious  sermon  he  had  preached  against  the  mass  on 
the  preceding  Sunday  in  St.  Giles's  church,  and  who 
eeems  to  have  supposed  that  a  personal  conference  would 
mitigate  his  sternness.  It  appears,  however,  from  Knox's 
o^vn  admission,  that  his  sermon  w^as  not  relished  by  tho 
majority  of  his  audience,  who  maintained  that  he  had 
"  departed  from  his  subject,"  and  that  it  was  a  "  very  un- 
timely admonition."  I^ox  presented  himself  at  Holy- 
rood,  and,  when  admitted  into  the  presence  of  Mary,  he 


QUEEN  MARY  AT  HOLYROOD.  4i 

found  only  Lord  Jcames  Stuart  in  attendance.  The  inter- 
view commenced  with  the  Queen  accusing  him  for  his 
book  entitled  "  The  First  Blast  of  the  Trumpet  against  the 
monstrous  Regimen  of  Women,"  and  his  intolerance 
towards  every  one  who  differed  from  him  in  opinion ;  and 
she  requested  him  to  obey  the  precepts  of  the  Scriptures, 
a  copy  of  which  she  perceived  in  his  possession,  desiring 
him  to  "use  more  meekness  in  his  sermons."  Knox, 
in  reply,  "  knocked  so  hastily  upon  her  heart,  that  he 
made  her  weep."  So  great  was  the  agitation  of  the 
Queen,  that  Lord  James  Stuart  attempted  to  soothe  her 
feelings,  and  to  soften  the  language  she  had  heard.  Amid 
tears  of  anguish  and  indignation,  she  said  to  Knox — 
"  My  subjects,  it  would  appear,  must  obey  you,  and  not 
me  ;  I  must  be  subject  to  them,  not  they  to  me."  After 
some  farther  altercation,  Knox  was  dismissed  from  the 
royal  presence,  and  he  left  Ilolyrood,  convinced  that 
Mary's  soul  was  lost  for  ever — that  her  conversion  was 
hopeless,  because  she  continued  "in  her  massing,  and 
despised  and  quicldy  mocked  all  exhortation." 


CHAPTER  VI 


QUEEN  MARY'S  PROGRESSES  TO  AND  FROM 
HOLYROOD,  &c. 

pARY  made  her  first  royal  progress  on  the  11th  of 
September,  when  she  left  Holyrood  on  horseback 
»^  after  dinner,  and  proceeded  successively  by  Lin- 
lithgow, Stirling,  Alloa,  Ciilross,  to  Perth,  Dundee,  St. 
Andrews,  and  Falkland,  returning  to  Holyrood  on  the  29th. 
Early  in  the  spring  of  1562  the  Queen  again  left  Holy- 
rood  to  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  hawking  and  other  amuse- 
ments at  Falkland  and  St.  Andrews.  In  the  beginning  of 
May  the  Queen  returned  to  the  Palace,  where  in  July  she 
received  Sir  Henry  Sydney,  an  accomplished  statesman 
sent  by  Elizabeth.  On  one  occasion,  while  conversing 
with  Sydney  in  the  garden  of  HoljTOod,  and  attended  by 
her  Court,  one  Captain  Heibome  approached,  and  de- 
livered to  her  a  packet,  which  Mary  handed  to  Lord 
James  Stuart,  recently  created  Earl  of  Mar.  The  Earl, 
who  at  first  took  no  particular  notice  of  it,  at  last  opened 
the  packet,  which  he  found  to  contain  some  ribald  versea 
and  an  insulting  picture.  The  Queen  was  informed  of  the 
odious  contents  on  the  following  day,  and  felt  so  severely 
this  insult  before  the  English  ambassador  that  she  became 
sick  while  at  mass.  Meanwhile,  the  perpetrator  of  the 
cutrage  escaped,  and  though  Randolph  wrote  to  the  Gover- 


QUEEN  MARY'S  PROGRESSES.  43 

nor  of  Berwick  to  apprehend  him,  we  find  no  subsequent 
notice  of  his  capture  or  punishment. 

The  avocations  and  amusements  of  Mary  at  Holyrood 
about  this  period  are  prominently  noticed.  After  dinner 
she  generally  read  Livy  and  other  ancient  historians  with 
George  Buchanan.  She  was  a  chess-player,  and  she  de- 
lighted also  in  hawking  and  shooting  at  the  butts.  In 
her  household  were  minstrels  and  singers,  and  the  first 
introduction  of  Riccio  to  the  Scottish  court  was  to  supply 
a  vacancy  among  the  latter,  a  bass  having  been  required 
to  sing  in  concert  with  the  others.  In  1561  and  1562 
the  Queen  had  five  players  on  the  viol,  and  three  players 
on  the  lute.  In  the  chapel  of  Holyrood  were  a  "  pair  of 
organs,"  for  which,  in  February  1561-2,  the  sum  of  £10 
was  paid,  by  the  Queen's  command,  to  William  Macdowal, 
Master  of  Works,  who  had  recovered  and  carefully  pre- 
served them,  after  the  sum  of  £36  had  been  paid,  in 
February  1557-8,  by  the  Treasurer  to  David  Melville  of 
Leith.  Mary  was  sedulously  employed  at  Holyrood  with 
her  needle,  and  tradition  speaks  of  several  elegant  pro- 
ductions of  her  industry.  She  was  attended  in  her  pri- 
vate apartments  by  her  four  Marys,  young  ladies  of  noble 
birth,  of  the  same  age  with  herself,  who  had  attended 
her  during  her  residence  in  France — viz.,  Mary  Fleming, 
Mary  Bethune,  Mary  Livingstone,  and  Mary  Seton,  but 
Mademoiselle  de  Pinguillon  is  noticed  as  her  chief  lady. 

On  the  11th  of  August  1562  the  Queen  and  her  re- 
tinue left  Hol}Tood  on  a  progress  as  far  north  as  Inver- 
ness. This  journey  occasioned  the  temporary  ruin  of  the 
Earl  of  Huntly  and  his  family.  Huntly  himself  fell  in  the 
insurrectionary  conflict  in  the  vale  of  Corrichie,  nearly 
twenty  miles  west  of  Aberdeen.  His  dead  body  was 
brought  to  Edinburgh  by  sea,  and  deposited  in  a  vault  in 


44:  HISTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

the  Chapel  of  Holyrood,  whence  it  was  removed  to  the 
Monastery  of  the  Black  Friars  in  Edinburgh,  where  it 
continued  till  it  was  conveyed  to  the  family  sepulchre  at 
Elgin;  and  his  son  Sir  John  Gordon  perished  on  the 
scaffold  in  Aberdeen,  in  presence  of  Mary,  who  was  a  re- 
luctant spectator  of  a  fate  which  was  one  day  to  be  her 
own.  The  Queen  returned  to  Hol3Tood  on  the  evening 
of  the  21st  of  November,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  four 
months,  and  she  was  immediately  seized  with  an  illness, 
called  the  "  New  acquaintance,"  apparently  a  sort  of  in- 
fluenza, which  confined  her  to  her  couch  six  days.  On 
the  10th  of  January  1562-3  the  Queen  again  left  Holy- 
rood  for  Castle-Campbell  near  the  base  of  the  Ochills,  in 
order  to  be  present  at  the  marriage  of  Lady  Margaret 
Campbell,  sister  of  the  Earl  of  Argj^ll,  to  Sir  James 
Stewart  of  Doune,  then  Commendator  of  St.  Colm,  and 
who  in  1581  was  created  Lord  Doune.  On  the  14th  the 
Qr.een  returned  to  Holyrood,  where  she  remained  till  the 
13th  of  February,  having  recovered  from  another  illness 
which  seized  her  after  her  arrival. 

About  this  time  occurred  an  incident  which  proves 
that  the  Scottish  nobility  w^ere  altogether  unscrupu- 
lous in  their  efforts  to  ruin  those  with  whom  they 
were  at  feud.  George,  fifth  Earl  of  Huntly,  had  fled, 
after  his  father's  defeat  and  death  at  Corrichie,  to  his 
father-in-law  the  Duke  of  Chatclherault,  who  was  obliged 
to  surrender  him ;  and  he  was  committed  a  prisoner  to  tho 
Castle  of  Dunbar.  The  Earl  v/as  tried  and  convicted  of 
high  treason  on  the  8th  of  February  1562-3,  condemned 
to  be  executed,  and  sent  back  to  Dunbar  in  the  meanwhile, 
till  the  Queen's  pleasure  should  be  known.  Preston  of 
Craigmillar,  the  governor  of  Dunbar  Castle,  received  a 
warrant,  ordering  him  to  behead  the  young  nobleman. 


QUEEN  MARY'S  PROGRESSES.  45 

This  was  intimated  by  Preston  to  the  Earl,  who  was  not 
surprised  at  the  announcement,  and  declared  that  he 
"  knew  well  enough  by  whose  means  and  after  what  man- 
ner such  an  order  had  been  obtained,  but  that  the  Queen 
had  doubtless  been  imposed  on,  since  he  was  very  well 
assured  of  her  Majesty's  favour,  and  that  she  would  never 
deliver  him  up  to  the  rage  of  his  enemies ;  and  therefore 
he  begged  that  he  would  do  him  the  favour  to  go  to  the 
Queen,  and  receive  the  order  from  her  own  mouth  before 
he  would  proceed  farther."  Preston  immediately  rode  to 
Edinburgh,  and  arrived  at  Holyrood  late  in  the  evening. 
Notwithstanding  the  unseasonable  hour,  he  demanded  an 
audience  of  the  Queen,  as  he  had  a  matter  of  the  utmost 
importance  to  communicate.  He  was  admitted  into  the 
royal  bed-chamber,  and  Mary  inquired  the  cause  of  this 
unexpected  visit.  Preston  told  her  that  he  was  anxious 
to  inform  her  that  he  had  obeyed  her  commands.  "  What 
commands  from  me  ?"  asked  the  Queen.  "The  behead- 
ing of  the  Earl  of  Huntly,"  was  the  reply.  When  Mary 
heard  this  she  manifested  the  greatest  distress,  weeping 
and  solemnly  protesting  that  she  had  "never  given  nor 
known  of  any  such  order."  Preston  quieted  her  apprehen- 
sions by  telling  her  that  "  it  was  very  lucky  he  had  not 
executed  the  order — that  the  Earl  was  ahv-e  and  well,  and 
begged  to  have  her  Majesty's  commands  as  to  how  he 
should  behave  for  the  future  towards  his  prisoner."  Mary 
thanked  Preston  for  his  prudent  conduct,  acknowledging 
that  nothing  could  be  more  acceptable  to  her,  and  that  as 
she  had  now  full  confidence  in  his  fidehty,  he  was  neither 
to  deliver  up  the  Earl,  nor  execute  any  sentence  on  him, 
unless  she  personally  commanded  him. 

It  has  been  already  stated  that  when  Mary  arrived 
from  France  she  was  accompanied,  among  others,  by 


^^  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

Monsieur  de  Damville,  in  whose  train  was  Chastelard,  a 
gentleman  of  Daupliinc.  Brantomo  says  that  Chastelard 
was  grand-nephew  of  the  Chevalier  Bayard,  and  that  ho 
bore  a  resemblance  to  his  illustrious  relative,  was  of  the 
middle  height,  very  handsome,  and  of  a  spare  figure,  and 
that  he  was  clever,  and  had  a  turn  both  for  music  and 
poetry.  After  residing  some  time  at  Holyrood  he  returned 
to  France  with  Damville,  by  whom  he  was  again  sent  to 
Scotland  with  a  letter,  which  he  delivered  to  the  Queen 
at  Montrose,  while  on  her  progress  to  Edinburgh  from  the 
north.  Mary  subsequently  often  entered  into  conversa- 
tion with  Chastelard,  whose  manners  were  agreeable,  and 
who  could  talk  to  her  of  France,  the  country  of  her  youth- 
ful affections.  Encouraged  by  the  Queen's  condescension, 
this  young  man,  in  an  evil  hour,  aspired  to  her  love, 
and  in  a  fit  of  amorous  frenzy  concealed  himself  in  her 
bed-chamber  at  Holyrood,  in  which  he  was  discovered  by 
her  female  attendants  some  minutes  before  she  retired  for 
the  night.  This  was  on  the  12th  of  February  1562-3, 
and  it  appears  that  he  had  armed  himself  with  a  sword 
and  dagger.  He  was  of  course  expelled  by  the  Queen's 
domestics,  who,  not  wishing  that  their  royal  mistress 
should  be  annoyed  by  this  extraordinary  and  daring  cir- 
cumstance, concealed  it  till  the  morning.  When  Mary 
was  informed  of  Chastelard's  conduct,  she  ordered  him 
instantly  to  leave  the  Palace,  and  never  again  to  appear 
in  her  presence.  This  lenity,  however,  failed  to  exercise 
a  proper  effect  on  tlie  infatuated  man.  On  the  13th  of 
February  the  Queen  left  Holyrood  for  Fife,  and  Chastelard 
had  the  presumption  to  repeat  his  offence  at  Burntisland 
on  the  night  of  the  14th,  while  Mary  was  in  the  act  of 
stepping  into  bed,  and  was  surrounded  by  her  ladies. 
The  royal  household  was  soon  alarmed,  and  the  offender 


QUEEN  MARY'S  PK0GKESSE3.  47 

was  secured  by  the  Earl  of  Moray.  On  the  second  day 
after  this  outrage  he  was  tried  aud  condemned  at  St. 
Andrews,  where  he  was  executed  on  the  22d  of  February 
1562-3. 

On  the  ICth  of  May  15G3  the  Queen  returned  to 
Holyrood  after  an  absence  of  upwards  of  three  months 
in  Fife  and  the  neighbouring  counties  of  Ivinross  and 
Perth.  This  was  preparatory  to  the  meeting  of  the 
Parliament,  which  assembled  on  the  26th  of  May,  and 
sat  only  till  the  4th  of  June.  Mary  rode  to  the  Par- 
liament from  Hol^Tood,  accompanied  by  her  ladies,  the 
Duke  of  Chatelherault  carrying  the  crown,  the  Earl  of 
Argyll  the  sceptre,  and  the  Earl  of  Moray  the  sword. 
The  address  delivered  by  her  on  this,  the  first  occasion 
on  which  she  ever  saw  a  Parliament,  was  written  in 
French,  and  translated  and  spoken  by  her  in  English. 
Her  beauty  and  grace  excited  the  loyal  feelings  of  the 
citizens,  who  exclaimed,  as  she  passed  to  and  from  the 
Parhament — "  God  save  that  sweet  face ! "  On  that  same 
day  she  gave  a  great  banquet  in  Holyrood. 

During  the  sitting  of  this  Parliament  a  sermon  was 
preached  by  Knox  in  St.  Giles's  church  before  several  of 
the  nobihty,  in  which  he  argued  that  they  ought  to  de- 
mand from  the  Queen  "  that  quhilk  by  God's  Word  they 
may  justly  require,  and  if  she  would  not  agree  with  them 
in  God,  they  were  not  bound  to  agree  with  her  in  the 
devil."  He  concluded  \vith  some  observations  respecting 
the  Queen's  rumoured  marriage,  and  declared — "  When- 
ever ye  consent  that  an  infidel,  and  all  Papists  are  infi- 
dels, shall  be  our  head  to  our  soverane,  ye  do  so  far  as  in 
you  lieth  to  banisch  Christ  Jesus  from  this  realme ;  ye 
bring  God's  vengeance  upon  this  country,  a  plague  upon 
yourselves,  and  perchance  ye  sail  do  no  small  discomfort 


48  HISTOHY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

to  your  soverane."  This  furious  attack  on  the  Queen 
was  soon  communicated  to  her,  and  Knox  was  again 
Fummoned  to  her  presence  in  HoljTOod  by  Douglas  of 
Drumlanrig,  lay  provost  of  Lincludcn.  It  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that  Mary  was  indignant  at  the  invectives  of 
Knox,  for  he  himself  confesses  that  "  Papists  and  Protes- 
tants were  both  offended;  yea,  his  most  familiaris  dis- 
dained him  for  that  speaking."*  Lord  Ochiltree,  and 
other  leaders  of  the  "  faithful,"  accompanied  Knox  to  the 
Palace ;  but  John  Erskine  of  Dun,  the  "  Superintendent 
of  Angus  and  Mearns"  under  the  new  system,  was  the 
only  person  admitted  with  him  into  the  Queen's  cabinet. 
As  soon  as  Mary  saw  Knox  she  exclaimed,  under  great 
excitement — "  Never  was  prince  handled  as  I  am.  I 
have  borne  with  you, "  she  said  to  Knox,  "  in  all  your 
rigorous  manner  of  speaking  both  against  myself  and 
against  my  uncles ;  yea,  I  have  sought  your  favour  by  all 
possible  means.  I  offered  unto  you  presence  and  audi- 
ence whenever  it  pleased  you  to  admonish  me,  and  yet  I 
cannot  be  quit  of  you.  I  vow  to  God  I  shall  be  once 
avenged."  The  Queen  wept,  and  often  requested  her 
page  for  handkerchiefs  to  dry  her  tears.  Kiiox  answered 
— "  True  it  is.  Madam,  your  Grace  and  I  have  been  at 
divers  controversies,  into  the  which  I  never  perceived 
your  Grace  to  be  offended  at  me ;  but  when  it  shall  please 
God  to  deliver  you  from  that  bondage  of  darkness  and 
error  in  the  which  ye  have  been  nourished  for  the  lack  of 
true  doctrine,  your  majesty  will  find  the  liberty  of  my  tongue 
nothing  offensive.  Without  the  preaching  place.  Madam, 
I  am  not  master  of  myself,  for  I  must  obey  Him  who  com- 
mands me  to  speak  plain,  and  flatter  no  flesh  upon  the  face 
of  the  earth."  This  reply  was  not  likely  to  subdue  the 
♦  Hist,  of  Reformation,  vol.  u.  p.  386.    Edit  Edinb.  1848. 


QUEEN  MAKY'S  progresses.  49 

Queen's  anger,  and  she  indignantly  asked — "  What  have 
you  to  do  with  my  maniage?"  This  elicited  a  definition 
from  Knox  of  his  vocation  to  preach  faith  and  repentance, 
and  the  imperative  necessity  of  teaching  the  nobility  and 
commonwealth  their  duty.  The  Queen  again  asked  him 
— "  What  have  ye  to  do  with  my  marriage,  or  what  are 
ye  in  this  commonwealth?" — "A  subject  born  within 
the  same,  Madam,"  was  the  stem  reply;  "and  albeit 
I  be  neither  Earl,  Lord,  nor  Baron  within  it,  yet  has 
God  made  me,  how  abject  soever  I  may  be  in  your  eyes, 
a  profitable  member  within  the  same."  Knox  then  re- 
peated the  words  he  had  uttered  in  the  pulpit,  at  which, 
he  himself  says,  "  howling  was  heard,  and  tears  might 
have  been  seen  in  greater  abundance  than  the  matter 
required."  Erskine  of  Dun  here  attempted  to  soothe  the 
Queen  by  some  complimentary  allusions  to  her  personal 
beauty,  the  excellence  of  her  disposition,  and  the  admira- 
tion expressed  for  her  by  all  the  princes  of  Europe,  who 
were  rivals  to  gain  her  favour.  Knox  stood  unmoved, 
and  his  coolness  increased  Mary's  anger.  He  volunteered 
a  defence  of  himself,  and  urged  his  conscientious  motives, 
which  still  further  ofi'ended  the  Queen,  who  ordered  him 
to  leave  the  cabinet,  and  remain  in  the  ante-chamber  till 
her  pleasure  should  be  intimated.  Lord  John  Stuart, 
the  Commendator  of  Coldingham,  joined  the  Queen  and 
Erskine  of  Dun  in  the  cabinet,  in  which  they  remained 
nearly  an  hour.  During  this  space,  Knox,  who  was 
attended  by  Lord  Ochiltree,  commenced  a  kind  of  reli- 
gious admonition  to  the  Queen's  Marys  and  other  ladiea 
present.  "  0  fair  ladies ! "  he  said,  "  how  pleasing  is  this 
life  of  yours  if  it  would  ever  abide,  and  then  in  the  end 
that  ye  pass  to  Heaven  with  all  this  gay  gear !  But  fie 
upon  the  knave  Death,  that  will  come  whether  we  will  or 

D 


50  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

not,  and  when  he  has  laid  on  his  arrest,  the  foul  worras 
will  be  busy  with  this  flesh,  be  it  never  so  fair  and  tender ; 
and  the  silly  soul,  I  fear,  shall  be  so  feeble,  that  it  can 
neither  carry  with  it  gold,  garnishing,  targatting,  pearl, 
nor  precious  stones."  After  similar  exhortations,  not 
often  heard  within  the  walls  of  a  palace,  Ersldne  of  Dun 
appeared,  and  they  both  walked  from  Holyi'ood  to  the 
house  of  Knox  at  the  Nether  Bow. 

On  the  29th  of  June  1563  Queen  Mary  left  HoljTOod 
on  another  progress  to  the  west  and  south-west  of  Scot- 
land as  far  as  Inverary,  which  occupied  the  two  subse- 
quent months  of  July  and  August.  While  the  Queen  was 
at  Stirling,  and  was  so  far  on  her  return  to  Edinburgh,  a 
riot  occurred  at  Holyrood  in  which  Knox  was  deeply  im- 
plicated. On  Sunday  the  15th  of  August,  when  the  "  Kirk 
at  Edinburgh,"  says  Knox,  "  had  the  ministration  of  tlie 
Lord's  table,  the  Papists  in  grit  numbers  resorted  to 

the  Abbey  to  their  abominations at  the 

head  of  whom  was  a  certain  Madame  Eaylie"  [wife  of 
Mons.  Eaullet  or  Roullet,  the  Queen's  private  secretary.]  * 
Divine  service  was  to  be  celebrated  for  their  benefit, 
according  to  the  ritual  of  the  Church  of  Rome.  This 
was  known  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  several  persons 
"  burst"  into  the  church,  among  whom  was  a  "  zealous 
brother,"  named  Patrick  Cranston,  who  exclaimed,  as  a 
priest  was  preparing  to  commence  mass — "  The  Queen's 
Majesty  is  not  here ;  how  dare  you,  then,  be  so  malapert 
as  openly  to  do  against  the  laws  ?"  The  Queen's  house- 
hold were  so  much  alarmed  that  they  sent  to  Wishart  of 
Pitarrow,  the  Comptroller,  who  happened  to  be  in  St. 
Giles's  church,  requesting  him  to  proceed  to  Holjn'ood  to 
Bftve  the  life  of  Madame  Raylie  and  protect  the  Palace. 
*  Note  to  Knoxii  Works,  vol.  ii.  p.  393.    Edit.  1848. 


QUEEN  MARY'S  PROGRESSES.  61 

Wishart  proceeded  thither,  accompanied  by  Archibald 
Douglas  of  Kilspindy,  Provost  of  the  city,  the  Magistrates, 
and  a  numerous  party ;  but  the  disturbance  had  ceased 
before  their  arrival,  and  the  result  of  the  prosecution  of 
Cranston,  and  his  coadjutor  Andrew  Armstrong,  whom 
Knox  intended  to  rescue,  is  not  known.  Knox  was  sum- 
moned before  the  Queen  and  Privy  Council  for  his  inter 
ference  in  this  unseemly  and  intolerant  disturbance,  and 
especially  for  presuming  to  set  at  defiance  a  recent  Act  of 
the  Parliament  for  the  suppression  of  tumults  within 
burgh,  which  declared  all  assemblages  of  the  people  in 
towns  without  the  Queen's  consent  illegal.  He  denied 
that  he  was  guilty  of  seditious  or  rebellious  practices,  and 
entreated  the  Queen  to  "  forsake  her  idolatrous  religion," 
upon  which  the  Earl  of  Morton,  then  Lord  Chancellor,  told 
him  to  "  hold  his  peace  and  go  away." 

Queen  Mary  returned  to  Holyrood  on  the  30ih  of  Sep- 
tember, and  seems  to  have  constantly  resided  in  the 
Palace  during  the  ensuing  winter.  In  January  and  Feb» 
niary  1563-4,  she  is  mentioned  as  giving  banquets  to  the 
nobility,  who  in  their  turn  invited  her  to  be  their  guest. 
Mary's  health  was  evidently  very  indifferent  while  at 
Holyrood,  but  her  other  chief  annoyance  was  Knox,  whom 
she  unsuccessfully  attempted  to  banish  from  the  city.  On 
the  6th  of  March  1563-4  the  Queen  left  Holyrood,  and 
after  alternately  residing  at  Perth,  Falkland,  and  St. 
AndrewSj'^he  returned  to  Holyrood  about  the  middle  of 
May.  She  again  left  Holyrood  on  the  22d  of  July  1564, 
and,  after  a  brief  sojourn  at  Linlithgow  and  Stirling,  she 
went  to  Perth,  whence  she  resorted  to  a  huntmg  expedi- 
tion in  Atholl,  and  crossing  into  Inverness-shire,  she 
returned  along  the  east  coast  by  Aberdeen  and  Dunnottar 
to  Dundee  and  St.  Andrews,  and  arrived  at  Holyrood  on 
the  25th  or  26th  of  September. 


CHAPTEE   VII, 


MARRIAGE  OF  QUEEN  MARY  AND  LORD 
DARNLEY  AT  HOLYROOD. 

TURING  Mary's  absence  in  this  latter  progress 
li^l  an  event  occurred  -which  had  a  serious  e£fcct 
on  her  future  destiny.  This  was  the  return  of 
her  relative  Matthew,  Earl  of  Lennox,  the  father  of  Lord 
Darnley,  from  his  twenty-two  years'  exile  in  England. 
The  Earl  arrived  in  Edinburgh  on  the  8th  of  September, 
and  was  informed  that  the  Queen  was  then  the  guest  of 
the  Earl  of  Atholl  in  Perthshire.  He  resolved  to  pro- 
ceed thither,  and  went  to  St.  Andrews,  where  he  heard 
of  the  Queen's  return  southward.  In  obedience  to  Mary's 
invitation,  the  Earl  presented  himself  at  Holyrood  on  the 
27th  of  September,  riding  to  the  Palace  preceded  by 
twelve  gentlemen  splendidly  mounted  and  clothed  in  black 
velvet,  and  followed  by  thirty  attendants  bearing  his  arms 
and  livery.  His  reception  at  Holyrood  was  flattering  and 
cordial.  Either  at  this  or  a  subsequent  interview  Lennox 
gave  the  Queen  "  a  marvellous  fair  and  rich  jewel,  a  clock, 
a  dial  curiously  wrought  and  set  with  stones,  and  a  look- 
ing glass  very  richly  set  with  stones  in  the  four  metals  ; 
also  to  each  of  the  Marys  such  pretty  things  as  he  thought 
fittest  for  them."  Lord  Darnley  was  with  his  mother  the 
Countess  of  Lennox  in  England,  but  Marj'  intimated  that 


MARRIAGE  OF  MARY  AND  DARNLEY.      53 

Blie  had  heard  with  satisfaction  most  favourable  reportg 
of  his  personal  appearance ;  and  common  rmnour  had 
already  selected  him  as  the  Queen's  husband.  A  series 
of  festivities  was  now  held  in  Holyrood,  and  a  grand  en- 
tertainment given  by  the  Queen  on  the  12th  of  November 
is  specially  mentioned.  On  the  3d  of  December,  which 
was  the  second  day  of  the  meeting  of  the  ParHament, 
Mary  recommended  the  reversal  of  the  forfeiture  of  Len- 
nox, who  on  the  same  day  was  restored  to  his  estate  and 
honours ;  but  as  an  antidote  to  this  compliance  with  tho 
royal  desire,  the  attendance  on  mass,  except  in  the  Queen's 
chapel,  was  ordered  to  be  punished  with  the  loss  of  goodo 
and  of  life. 

Mary  left  HoljTood  for  Fife  on  the  19th  of  January 
1564-5,  and  she  remained  in  quiet  retirement  at  St.  An- 
drews till  the  11th  of  February,  when  she  crossed  the 
county  to  Lundie  near  Leven,  where  she  arrived  on  the 
12th,  and  on  the  13th  she  rode  to  Wemyss  Castle,  then 
inhabited  by  the  Earl  of  Moray.  "  She  was  magnifi- 
cently banquetted  everywhere,  so  that  such  superfluity 
was  never  seen  before  within  this  realme ;  which  caused 
the  wilde  fowl  to  be  so  dear,  that  partridges  were  sold 
for  a  cro^vn  a-piece."*  At  that  very  time  Lord  Damley 
had  left  London  for  Scotland,  bringing  with  him  Queen 
Elizabeth's  letters  of  recommendation,  and  a  diamond 
ring  from  his  mother  to  Mary,  her  niece.  Damley  arrived 
in  Edinburgh  on  the  day  Mary  rode  to  Wemyss  Castle, 
whither  he  proceeded  on  the  16th  of  February,  and  there 
had  his  first  interview  with  the  Queen,  by  whom  he  was 
well  received.  Sir  James  Melville,  who  was  present  in 
Wemyss  Castle,  states  that  Mary  "  took  very  well"  with 
her  visitor,  and  jocularly  said  to  him  (Melville)  that  Dam- 
♦  Knox's  Works,  u.  471, 


54  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

ley  was  tho  "  properest  and  best  proportioned  long  maa 
that  ever  she  had  seen,  for,"  adds  he,  "  ho  was  long  and 
small,  even  and  straight.*  Darnley  was  then  only  nine- 
teen years  of  age,  and  four  years  younger  then  Mary. 
The  Queen  returned  to  Edinburgh  on  the  24th  of  Fe- 
bruary 1564-5,  Darnley  having  previously  left  Wemysa 
Castle  to  visit  his  father,  who  was  then  with  the  Earl 
of  AthoU  at  Dunkeld,  but  hastening  so  rapidly  thence  to 
Edinburgh  as  to  reach  the  city  before  the  return  of  the 
Queen. 

Darnley  was  now  a  regular  visitor  at  Holyrood,  and 
took  part  in  all  the  amusements  of  the  Court.  On  the 
26th  of  February  he  was  entertained  at  supper  by  Moray 
in  his  house  in  Croft-an-Righ  behind  the  Palace,  where 
he  met  the  Queen,  with  whom  he  danced.  Darnley  was 
at  this  time  popular  with  the  citizens  of  Edinburgh,  who 
considered  Kim  to  be  good-natured,  and  affable  in  his 
behaviour.  Although  he  was  suspected  of  "  Popery,"  he 
seems  to  have  placed  himself  under  the  guidance  of  Moray, 
and  he  occasionally  resorted  to  the  preaching  of  Knox  in 
St.  Giles's  Church.  At  length  he  proposed  marriage  to 
the  Queen,  which  she  at  first  pretended  to  decline,  and 
even  refused  a  ring  which  he  wished  her  to  accept.  The 
courtship,  however,  continued,  and  it  is  certain  that  in  the 
beginning  of  March  1564-5  Mary  had  fixed  her  affections 
on  Darnley,  for  shortly  afterwards  she  sent  Secretary 
Maitland  to  London,  to  inform  Elizabeth  of  her  reso- 
lution, which  the  English  Queen  knew  before  his  ar- 
rival. She  stated  as  a  principal  inducement  to  this  con- 
nexion, that  Darnley  was  so  near  of  blood  to  both  Queens, 
he  being  her  cousin-german,  and  his  mother  standing 
in  the  same  relationship  to  Elizabeth.  Meanwhile 
Mary  left  Holyrood  for  Linlithgow  and   Stirling  on 


MARRIAGE  OP  MARY  AND  DARNLEY.      65 

the  26tli  of  March  1565,  wliither  she  was  followed  by 
Darnley,  and  the  marriage  was  at  last  arranged  at 
Stirhng  in  a  meeting  of  the  Privy  Council  on  the  1 5th 
of  May  1565,  at  which  the  Queen  was  present,  and 
on  that  day  Darnley  was  created  a  knight,  Earl  of 
Ross,  and  Lord  of  Ardmanach,  his  elevation  to  the  Duke- 
dom of  Albany  being  merely  delayed.  About  this  period 
a  formidable  party,  led  by  the  Earls  of  Moray  and  Argyll, 
repeatedly  attempted  to  overawe  Mary,  and  actually  de- 
bated whether  Darnley  ought  to  be  murdered,  or  seized, 
along  with  his  father,  and  delivered  to  Elizabeth.  Various 
plots  were  concerted,  and  powerful  confederacies  formed. 
One  was  to  carry  the  Queen  to  St.  Andrews,  and  Darnley 
to  Castle-Campbell ;  but  the  ultimate  agreement  was,  that 
Moray  should  murder  Darnley,  assume  the  government, 
and  imprison  Mary  for  life  in  Lochleven  Castle. 

The  Queen  returned  to  Holyrood  on  the  4th  of  July, 
on  the  20th  of  which  month  Darnley  was  created  Duke  of 
Rothesay,  the  Queen  having  previously  received  the  con- 
sent of  her  uncle  the  Cardinal  of  Lorraine  to  the  marriage, 
and  also  the  dispensation  of  the  Pope.  On  the  following 
Sunday  the  banns  were  proclaimed  "  in  the  paroche  kirk  of 
St.  Geill,  in  Halyrudlious,  and  in  the  Chepell  Royall."* 
Sunday  the  29th  was  the  day  of  this  ill-fated  union,  and 
the  place  was  the  same  Chapel-Royal  of  Holyrood.  John 
Sinclair,  Bishop  of  Brechin,  and  Dean  of  Restalrig,  per- 
formed the  ceremonial  according  to  the  ritual  of  the 
Church  of  Rome  between  the  hours  of  five  and  six  in  the 
morning.  It  has  been  invariably  recorded  that  Mary  on 
this  eventful  occasion  was  attired  in  mourning,  and  that 
the  dress  was  that  which  she  wore  on  the  day  of  her  first 
husband's  funeral.  Randolph,  though  not  an  eyewitness, 
•  Diurnal  of  Occurrents,  p.  79. 


56  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

informed  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  that  the  Queen  was  con- 
veyed to  the  Chapel  dressed  in  "the  great  mourning 
gowne  of  blacke,  with  the  great  wide  mourning  hoode,  not 
unlykc  that  which  she  wore  the  dolefull  day  of  the  buriall 
of  her  husbande."  Mary  was  attended  by  the  Earls  of 
Lennox  and  Atholl,  who  left  her  in  the  Chapel,  and  re- 
turned into  the  Palace  for  Darnley.  The  Dean  of  Eestal- 
rig  and  a  priest  received  the  royal  pair,  the  banns  were 
asked  a  third  time,  and  a  protest  was  taken  by  a  notary 
that  no  opposition  was  alleged  against  the  marriage.  The 
service  then  proceeded.  Three  rings,  one  of  them  a  rich 
diamond,  were  placed  by  Darnley  on  the  Queen's  finger, 
and  they  knelt  together  during  the  prayers.  When  the 
ceremony  was  concluded,  Darnley  kissed  the  Queen,  and 
proceeded  to  her  apartments  in  the  Palace,  leaving  her  in 
the  Chapel  to  attend  mass,  which  he  seems  to  liave  pur- 
posely avoided.  A  splendid  banquet  was  given  in  the 
Palace  in  the  afternoon,  and  Knox  carefully  records  that 
the  entertainments  and  rejoicings  continued  three  or  four 
days.  At  the  marriage  dinner  the  Queen  was  served  by 
the  Earl  of  Atholl  as  sewer,  the  Earl  of  Morton  as  carver, 
and  the  Earl  of  Crawford  as  cupbearer,  the  Earls  of 
Eglinton,  Cassillis,  and  Glencairn  waiting  on  Darnley. 
The  trumpets  sounded  a  largesse,  and  money  was  distri- 
buted in  the  Palace  to  the  domestics.  A  baU  succeeded 
the  banquet,  after  which  the  Queen  and  her  consort  re- 
tired till  the  hour  of  supper,  which  repast  was  a  repetition 
of  the  dinner.  Dancing  was  resumed,  and  the  royal  pair 
then  betook  themselves  to  their  own  chamber.  Randolph 
states — "  I  was  sent  for  to  have  been  at  the  supper,  but 
like  a  churlish  or  uncourteous  carle  I  refused  to  be  there."* 
On  the  following  day  the  Queen  subscribed  a  proclama- 
♦  Wright's  "Queen  Elizabeth  and  her  Times,"  vol.  i.  p.  201. 


MARRIAGE  OP  MARY  AND  DARNLEY.       57 

Hon  in  the  Palace,  which  -was  published  at  the  Cross  of 
Edinburgh,  ordaining  Darnley  to  be  styled  King,  though 
this  by  no  means  associated  him  with  her  in  the  govern- 
ment. She  had  soon  cause,  however,  to  regret  this  impru- 
dent act,  which  excited  the  strongest  dissatisfaction 
among  the  nobility,  while  Damley's  conduct  after  his 
marriage  made  him  numerous  enemies.  On  the  19  th  of 
August,  when  he  attended  St.  Giles's  Church,  Knox  edified 
him  by  a  sermon  against  the  government  of  boys  and 
women,  meaning  him  and  the  Queen.  A  serious  coalition 
was  now  formed,  and  a  rebellion  ensued,  in  which  the 
Earl  of  Moray  was  particularly  conspicuous,  but  the  active 
movements  of  the  Queen  and  the  royal  forces  completely 
disconcerted  the  insurgents.  On  the  25th  of  August  the 
Queen  and  Darnley  left  Holyrood  in  order  to  disperse  the 
disaffected  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Glasgow,  and  in 
September  Ihe  royal  pair  were  in  Stirling,  Dunfermhne, 
Dundee,  and  Perth,  returning  to  Holyrood  on  the  19th  of 
that  month.  They  resided  in  the  Palace  till  the  8th  of 
October,  when  the  movements  of  the  insurgents  in  Dum- 
fries-shire again  drew  them  from  Holyrood,  but  the  sup- 
pression of  the  insurrection  brought  them  to  the  Palace  on 
the  18th,  and  they  remained  in  it  till  the  end  of  the  year, 
unconscious  of  the  confederacies  forming  against  them. 

The  Earl  of  Moray,  the  principal  leader  in  this  rebel- 
lion, was  compelled  to  retire  into  England  as  an  exile, 
and  at  this  crisis  the  Earl  of  Bothwell,  profiting  by 
Moray's  disgrace,  returned  from  France,  accompanied  by 
David  Chalmers  of  Ormond,  v/ho  was  soon  appointed  one 
of  the  Ordinary  Lords  of  Session.  Bothwell,  who  had 
been  expelled  from  Scotland  by  the  power  of  Moray,  was 
received  with  marked  distinction  by  the  Queen,  and  this 
daring  and  profligate  man  was  present  at  a  meeting  of 


58 


mSTORY   OP  HOLYROOD. 


the  Privy  Council  on  the  5th  of  November.  The  Queen 
and  Darnley  continued  to  reside  in  Holyrood  during  tho 
winter,  and  about  the  beginning  of  February  1565-6,  tho 
Seigneur  de  Rembouillet,  with  a  deputation  from  the 
King  of  France,  an-ived  at  the  Palace,  to  present  Darnley 
with  the  order  of  St.  Michael,  known  as  the  Scallop  or 
Cockle-shell  Order,  so  called  from  the  escallop  shells  of 
which  the  collar  was  composed.  The  investiture  was  per- 
formed after  the  celebration  of  mass  in  the  Chapel-Boyal, 
and,  on  the  11th  of  February,  the  French  ambassador  was 
invited  to  a  banquet  or  entertainment  in  the  Palace,  and 
in  the  evening  there  was  a  masquerade,  at  which  the 
Queen,  her  four  Marys,  and  all  her  ladies  appeared  in 
male  attire,  and  presented  each  of  the  strangers  with  a 
"  whinger"  embroidered  with  gold.  The  French  ambas- 
sador was  lodged  near  the  Palace,  and  his  expenses  were 
defrayed  by  the  Queen. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


MUBDER  OF  RICCIO  IN  HOLYHOOD. 

j)T  this  time  two  conspiracies  were  in  active  pro- 
gress— ^the  dethronement  of  Mary  and  the  mur- 
der of  David  Kiccio,  which  latter  plot  was  origi- 
nally formed  by  no  less  a  personage  than  Damley  him- 
Belf,  in  conjunction  with  his  father  Lennox.  Damley, 
whose  enemies  were  now  numerous,  and  whose  insolence 
was  unbounded,  was  induced  to  believe  that  Riccio  was 
the  sole  instigator  of  those  measures  which  deprived  him 
of  the  crown-matrimonial  and  his  share  of  the  govern- 
ment, for  which  it  was  too  obvious  he  was  utterly  inca- 
pacitated by  his  habits  and  mental  imbecility,  Mary  had 
pamfully  discovered  that  she  had  thrown  away  her  affec- 
tions on  one  whom  it  was  impossible  to  treat  with  confi- 
dence or  regard;  and  an  unhappy  quarrel  was  the  re- 
sult, which  the  conduct  of  Damley  rendered  every  day 
the  more  irreconcileable.  The  first  victim  connected  with 
this  alienation  of  Mary's  affections  and  her  husband's 
violence  was  Eiccio,  of  whom  Damley  became  jealous, 
actually  labouring  under  the  delusion  that  the  Italian  had 
supplanted  him  in  the  Queen's  esteem.  The  agent  of 
Cosmo  I.,  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany,  mentions  that  one  at- 
tempt to  murder  Riccio  was  frustrated  by  Lord  Seton.  It 
Was  afterwards  proposed  to  assassinate  him  while  playing 


60  HISTORY  OP  HOLYPvOoD. 

a  game  of  rackets  with  Damley,  who  was  to  invite  him 
for  that  pm-pose.  Randolph  wrote  to  Leicester,  that 
Darnley  and  his  father  had  resolved  to  murder  Kiccio — 
that  it  would  be  done  in  ten  days — that  the  crown  would 
be  torn  from  the  Queen — and  that  still  darker  designs 
were  meditated  against  her  person  which  he  durst  not 
record  in  his  correspondence. 

Such  was  the  dreadful  condition  of  the  royal  inmatep 
of  the  Palace  of  Holyrood  at  this  crisis.  Mary's  refusal 
to  confer  the  crown-matrimonial  soon  led  to  coldness,  re- 
proaches, and  an  absolute  estrangement,  on  the  part  of 
Damley,  who  publicly  treated  her  with  haughtiness,  for- 
sook her  company,  and  intrigued  with  her  enemies.  In 
addition  to  this,  he  indulged  in  low  habits,  and  was  leading 
a  most  dissipated  and  profligate  life.  Sir  William  Drury 
informed  Cecil  of  two  instances  of  Darnley's  drunkenness ; 
the  one  in  a  merchant's  house  in  Edinburgh,  at  which  the 
Queen  was  present,  when  he  conducted  himself  towards 
her  so  insolently  that  she  left  the  place  in  tears — and  the 
other  a  shameful  carousal  on  the  Island  of  Inchkeith  in 
company  with  Lord  Robert  Stuart,  the  "Abbot"  or  Com- 
mendator  of  Holyrood,  Lord  Fleming,  and  other  per- 
sonages. The  disgust  in  which  the  Queen,  then  far 
advanced  in  pregnancy,  hold  her  husband,  was  well  known 
throughout  the  kingdom,  yet  Darnley  was  altogether  re- 
gardless of  what  she  thought  or  felt 

Riccio,  the  immediate  victim  of  the  tragedy  in  Holy- 
rood,  was  a  constant  attendant  on  the  Queen  in  his  capa- 
city of  French  secretary,  and  resided  in  the  Palace.  This 
unfortunate  foreigner,  who  is  described  by  Sir  James  Mel- 
ville as  a  "  merry  fellow  and  a  good  musician,"  was  bom 
Rt  Turin  in  Piedmont,  where  his  father  earned  a  preca- 
rious subsistence  as  a  musician.     Riccio  followed  tho 


MURDER  OF  EICCIO.  61 

Piedmonteso  ambassador  into  Scotland,  and  having  at- 
tracted the  notice  of  Mary,  he  was  in  1561  appointed  a 
valet  of  her  chamber.  He  is  described  by  some  contem 
porary  writers  as  being  a  man  up  in  years,  of  unpleasant 
features,  and  somewhat  deformed  in  person;  but  in  a 
despatch  from  the  Duke  of  Tuscany,  dated  8th  October 
1566,  published  in  the  work  of  Prince  Labanoff,  he  is  said 
to  have  been  only  Twenty-eight  in  1562.  On  the  8th  of 
January  1561-2  the  sum  of  £89  was  paid  to  him ;  on  the 
15th  of  April  1562  he  received  £15  as  "chalmer  chield ;" 
and  in  1564  four  quarterly  payments  were  made  to  him 
at  the  rate  of  £80  per  annum,  as  "  valet  of  the  Queen's 
chalmer."  Mary  was  fond  of  vocal  music,  and  having 
three  valets  who  sung  three  parts,  Riccio  was  recom- 
mended to  her  as  competent  to  sing  the  fourth  or  bass 
part  in  concert.  He  continued  as  valet  till  the  dismissal 
of  Raulet,  the  Queen's  secretary,  whom  she  had  brought 
from  France,  when  Riccio  was  appointed  his  succes- 
sor. He  appears  to  have  been  unpopular  from  the  first, 
and  his  officious  interferences  soon  rendered  him  an 
object  of  bitter  hatred.  He  was,  moreover,  suspected  oi 
being  a  pensioner  of  the  Pope,  which  by  no  means  lessened 
the  odium  against  him.  He  interfered  with  the  adminis- 
tration of  justice  in  the  Court  of  Session,  and,  by  the 
presents  he  received  to  secure  his  influence,  he  soon  became 
rich.  His  situation  necessarily  led  him  much  into  the 
private  parties  given  by  the  Queen,  who  hked  him  for  his 
polite  and  obsequious  manners,  his  amusing  talents,  and 
his  fidelity.  Sir  James  Melville  relates  a  conversation  he 
had  with  Riccio,  who,  he  says,  was  not  without  his  fear^c'. 
He  was  advised  by  Melville  to  conduct  himself  with  the 
humility  becoming  his  station,  not  to  intermeddle  with 
Btate  afiairs,  always  to  give  place  to  the  nobilitVj  and  when 


62  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

they  were  present  to  retire  from  the  Queen.  Eiccio 
admitted  the  prudence  of  those  suggestions,  and  said  he 
would  follow  the  advice  recommended ;  but  he  afterwards 
told  Melville  that  "  the  Queen  would  not  suffer  him,  and 
he  would  needs  carry  himself  as  formerly."  Sir  James  also 
relates  a  conversation  he  had  with  Mary  respecting  Eiccio, 
advising  her  to  be  cautious  as  to  the  favour  she  evinced 
to  one  who  was  suspected  to  be  a  pensioner  of  the  Pope, 
and  to  "  alter  her  carriage"  towards  him.  Darnley,  soon 
after  his  arrival  in  Scotland,  formed  a  remarkable  intimacy 
with  the  favoured  secretary,  and  the  latter  was  a  power- 
ful advocate  with  Mary  in  favour  of  the  young  lord's  pre- 
tensions to  her  hand.  After  the  marriage,  Eiccio  increased 
in  affluence.  On  the  1st  and  24th  of  August  1565  he  re- 
ceived some  presents  and  money,  and  about  the  end  of 
the  same  year  he  seems  to  have  acted  as  keeper  of  the 
privy  purse  to  Mary  and  Darnley,  especially  in  February 
1565-6,  when  he  was  paid  by  the  Queen's  precept  £2000 
in  part  of  10,000  merks  owing  to  her  from  the  "  comp- 
toir  "  of  the  coinage  for  the  previous  two  years. 

Such  was  the  individual  of  whom  Darnley  became 
seriously  jealous,  and  Eiccio's  enemies  embraced  the  op- 
portunity of  exciting  the  imbecile  mind  of  the  former  to 
such  a  degree,  that  he  sent  his  relative  George  Douglas, 
on  the  10th  of  February,  to  implore  Lord  Euthven,  in 
whom  he  had  the  greatest  confidence,  to  assist  him  againsl 
the  "  villain  David."  Euthven  was  then  so  unwell,  that 
he  "  was  scarcely  able  to  walk  the  length  of  his  chamber," 
yet  he  consented  to  engage  in  the  murder ;  but  though 
Darnley  was  sworn  to  keep  the  design  secret,  Eandolph 
was  informed  of  the  project,  and  revealed  it  in  a  letter, 
which  is  still  preserved,  to  the  Earl  of  Leicester  nearly 
R  month  before  the  crmae  was  perpetrated.    In  reality, 


MURDER  OF  RICCIO.  63 

however,  the  first  conspirators  against  the  unfortunate 
Kiccio  were  the  Earl  of  Morton,  Lords  Euthven  and 
Lindsay,  and  Maitland  of  Lethington,  the  last  ingeniously 
contriving  to  make  Darnley  the  patron  of  the  plot,  and 
the  dupe  of  his  associates.  Morton's  grand  projects  were 
to  break  up  the  approaching  Parliament,  imprison  the 
Queen,  place  Darnley  in  the  nominal  sovereignty,  and 
constitute  the  Earl  of  Moray  the  head  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  this  was  to  be  achieved  by  the  murder  of 
Eiccio. 

It  is  impossible  to  detail  all  the  minute  particulars,  the 
concocting  of  two  bonds  or  covenants,  and  other  events, 
connected  with  this  plot,  which  belong  rather  to  general 
history,  and  strikingly  illustrate  the  unscrupulous  crimin- 
ality of  the  age.  Some  hints  of  impending  danger  were 
conveyed  to  Mary,  who,  however,  disregarded  them. 
Even  Eiccio  received  a  significant  caution  from  a  person 
named  Damiot,  a  reputed  astrologer,  who  advised  him  to 
settle  his  afiau-s  and  leave  Scotland. 

The  Parliament  was  opened  by  the  Queen  in  person, 
who  rode  from  Holyrood  to  the  Tolbooth  near  St.  Giles's 
Church,  arrayed  in  "  wondrous  gorgeous  apparel,"  early 
in  March  1565-6.  Mary  requested  Darnley  to  accom- 
pany her  on  the  first  day  to  the  Parliament,  but  he  pre- 
ferred riding  to  Leith  with  "  seven  or  aucht  horse  "  to 
amuse  himself  The  Lords  of  the  Articles  were  chosen, 
and  the  forfeiture  against  Moray  and  the  banished  Nobility 
was  discussed  for  two  days,  with  great  diversity  of  opinion. 
The  influence  of  the  Queen  eventually  prevailed,  and  the 
attainder  of  Moray  and  his  friends  was  to  have  been  passed 
on  Tuesday  the  12th  March. 

On  the  evening  of  Saturday  the  9th  of  March,  about 
five  hundred  persons  surrounded  the  Palace  of  Holyrood 


64  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

The  Earl  of  Morton  and  Lord  Lindsay  kept  guard  without, 
and  a  hundred  and  sixty  men  occupied  the  court.  Mary 
was  in  that  portion  of  the  Palace  which  was  built  by  her 
father,  consisting  of  the  north-west  towers,  the  second 
storey  of  which  contains  the  apartments  now  mournfully 
associated  with  her  name,  consisting  of  an  ante-chamber 
called  the  "  Chamber  of  presence,"  which  leads  into  a  room 
having  one  window  on  the  south  and  another  on  the  west 
side,  which  was  Queen  Mary's  bed-chamber,  off  which,  in 
each  of  the  projecting  circular  towers  at  the  angles,  is  a 
small  apartment,  the  one  in  the  north-west  tower  known 
as  Queen  Mary's  supping-room,  and  that  in  the  south-west 
tower  as  her  dressing-room.  These  are  reached  by  the 
staircase  which  opens  on  the  piazzas  on  the  north  side  of 
the  quadrangle,  and  also  by  a  narrow  private  stair  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Palace  near  the  west  door  of  the  Chapel- 
Royal.  By  this  private  stair  the  conspirators  were,  in 
the  first  instance,  admitted  to  Darnley's  apartments  on  tho 
first  storey. 

About  seven  in  the  evening  Mary  was  seated  in  tho 
little  room  in  the  north-west  tuiTet,  at  one  of  those  small 
supper  parties,  in  the  easy  cheerfulness  of  which  she  took 
especial  pleasure.  At  table  with  her  were  the  Countess 
of  Argyll,  and  the  Commendator  of  Holyroodhouse,  her 
illegitimate  sister  and  brother,  Beaton  of  Criech,  Master 
of  the  Household,  Arthur  Erskine,  captain  of  the  guard, 
and  Riccio.  Suddenly  the  arras  which  covered  the  private 
entrance  into  the  bed-chamber  from  Darnley's  apartments 
was  lifted,  and  the  King  immediately  entered  the  closet 
in  which  Mary  was  seated,  and,  placing  himself  by  her 
side,  threw  his  arm,  in  an  affectionate  manner,  round  her 
waist.  In  another  instant  the  arras  in  the  adjacent  room  was 
ftgain  lifted  abruptly,  and  Lord  Ruthven  stalked  into  the 


MURDER  OP  RICCIO.  (55 

apartment,  his  tall  figure  clad  in  armour,  and  his  face  ghastly 
with  the  pallor  of  recent  sickness,  and  the  ferocity  of  un- 
bridled rage.  Alarmed  at  the  intrusion  of  so  singular  and 
menacing  an  apparition,  the  Queen  sprung  to  her  feet,  and 
with  that  dignity  which  she  could  assume  when  necessary, 
commanded  Ruthven  to  leave  the  royal  apartments.  At 
this  moment  the  noise  of  persons  rushing  up  the  private 
stairs  was  heard — then  the  tramp  of  heavy  feet  in  the 
adjoining  room — and  in  the  next  instant,  amid  the  glare 
of  brandished  torches,  Ker  of  Faldonside,  George  Douglas, 
postulate  of  Arbroath,  and  several  others,  rushed  into  the 
little  apartment,  with  swords  and  daggers  gleaming  in 
their  hands ;  "  so  rudely  and  irreverently,"  says  a  contem- 
porary, that  the  table,  with  the  candles  and  dishes  on  it, 
were  dashed  upon  the  floor.  The  table  fell  upon  the 
Queen,  then  in  the  sixth  month  of  her  pregnancy,  where- 
upon Ruthven,  brandishing  his  dagger,  cried  out,  "  No 
harm  is  intended  to  you.  Madam,  but  only  to  that  villain." 
The  unfortunate  Riccio,  who  saw  that  his  life  was  aimed 
at,  sprung  behind  Mary,  and,  clutching  her  gown  with  tho 
firm  grasp  of  despair,  cried  out  "  Justice !  save  my  life, 
Madam,  save  my  Hfe!"  The  conspirators  pressed  for- 
ward, and,  while  Darnley  strove  to  unfasten  Riccio's  hold 
of  the  Queen's  person,  Ker  of  Faldonside,  a  brutal  bor- 
derer, presented  a  pistol  to  her  bosom,  threatening  to  fire 
if  she  made  unnecessary  resistance.  While  Darnley  used 
his  strength  to  detain  the  Queen,  George  Douglas  snatched 
the  King's  dagger  from  its  sheath,  and,  stabbing  Riccio 
with  it  over  Mary's  shoulder,  left  it  sticking  in  his  body. 
The  conspirators  then  dragged  the  wretched  secretary 
furiously  through  the  bedroom  and  ante-chamber,  stabbing 
him  as  they  went,  till  he  fell  at  the  head  of  the  staircase, 
outside  the  door  of  the  ante-chamber,  pierced  by  fifty-six 


66  HISTORY  OP  HOLYEOOD. 

desperate  wounds.  Mary,  in  the  meanwhile,  sat  trembling 
in  the  turret  room,  till  one  of  her  ladies  brought  her  intel- 
ligence that  Riccio  was  slain,  when,  drying  her  tears,  she 
exclaimed,  "  Is  it  so  ? — then  I  shall  study  revenge." 

The  brutal,  repulsive  Ruthven,  with  his  dagger  reeking 
from  the  slaughter,  now  staggered  into  the  royal  closet, 
exhausted  by  fatigue,  and  demanded  a  cup  of  wine,  a  re- 
quest which  was  complied  with ;  but  the  Queen  said,  in  a 
determined  tone  of  voice,  "  It  shall  be  dear  blude  to  some 
of  you."  The  mangled  body  of  Riccio  was  dragged  to 
the  porter's  lodge,  stripped  naked,  and  treated  with  every 
mark  of  indignity.  It  is  alleged,  however,  that  his  corpse 
was  afterwards  deposited  for  a  time  in  the  royal  vault, 
by  the  Queen's  express  orders,  a  circumstance  afterwards 
remembered  to  her  disadvantage. 

After  the  murder  was  consummated  the  assassins  kept 
the  Queen  a  close  prisoner  in  her  own  apartments,  Dam- 
ley  assumed  the  regal  power,  dissolved  the  Parliament, 
commanding  the  estates  to  leave  Edinburgh  within  three 
hours  on  pain  of  treason,  and  orders  were  sent  to  the 
Magistrates  enjoining  them  to  be  vigilant.  To  the  Earl 
of  Morton  and  his  armed  retainers  were  entrusted  the 
gates  of  the  Palace,  with  injunctions  that  none  should 
escape;  nevertheless,  the  Earls  of  Atholl  and  Bothwell 
contrived  to  elude  the  guards  by  leaping  out  of  a  win- 
dow. On  the  following  morning,  which  was  Sunday,  Sir 
James  Melville  was  "  let  fortb"  at  the  gate.  The  Queen 
saw  him  passing  through  the  court-yard,  and,  throwing 
np  the  window  sash,  she  implored  him  to  alarm  the 
lieges,  that  she  might  be  delivered  out  of  the  hands  of 
traitors.  The  master  of  Lennox's  household  was  sent 
with  a  party  to  stop  him,  but  Sir  James  was  allowed 
to  proceed  on  declaring  that  he  was  merely  "  going  to 


MUEDEB  OP  RICCIO.  67 

sermon  in  St.  Giles's  Church."  "  And  then,*'  says  a  con- 
temporary, "  the  cry  and  noise  rais  throu  the  Cannogait 
.  .  .  whereupon  the  common  tell  rang  in  sic  sort,  that 
everie  man  past  to  armour,  and  ruschit  doun  with  Simon 
Prestoun  of  Craigmillar,  thair  provest,  to  Haljrrudhous, 
willing  to  have  deliverit  the  Quenis  grace  and  revengit 
the  cans  forsaid."*  Mary  in  vain  entreated  the  assas- 
sins to  permit  her  to  address  the  people  from  the  window, 
"  to  whom,"  she  says,  "  we  was  not  permitted  to  give  an- 
swer, being  extremely  hosted  [threatened]  by  thir  Lords, 
who,  in  our  face,  declared,  if  we  desired  to  have  spoken 
them,  they  should  cut  us  in  coUops  and  cast  us  over  the 
walls."  t  Damley  appeared  for  her,  assured  the  Provost 
and  his  party  that  the  Queen  was  safe,  and  commanded 
them  to  disperse,  an  injunction  which  they  instantly 
obeyed. 

On  the  evening  of  that  Sunday  the  Earls  of  Moray 
and  Eothes,  Lord  Ochiltree,  and  others  of  the  exiled 
nobility,  arrived  in  Edinburgh,  according  to  their  con- 
certed plan,  and  instantly  rode  to  Holyrood.  They  were 
welcomed  by  Damley,  and  so  unconscious  was  the  Queen 
of  Moray's  foreknowledge  of  the  murder,  that  she  sent 
for  him,  threw  herself  into  his  arms,  and  in  an  agony  of 
tears  exclaimed — "If  my  brother  had  been  here,  he 
never  would  have  suffered  me  to  have  been  thus  cruelly 
handled."  This  incident  overcame  Moray,  who  is  re- 
ported to  have  wept.  Yet,  whatever  might  have  been 
the  feelings  of  the  Queen,  and  though  a  rigorous  prosecu- 
tion was  instituted  against  the  assassins,  they  were  aH  re- 
ceived into  the  royal  favour  before  the  end  of  the  year, 
with  the  exception  of  Lord  Ruthven,  who  died  at  New- 

*  Diurnal  of  Occorrents,  p.  91. 
t  Mary's  Letter  to  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  ut  svpra. 


68  mSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

castle  on  the  13tli  of  June,  and  also  of  George  Douglas, 
the  man  who  inflicted  the  first  blow,  and  Ker  of  Faldon- 
Bide,  the  ruffian  who  put  a  pistol  to  Mary's  breast,  who 
were  excepted  from  the  general  pardon.  Only  two  per- 
sons were  executed  for  the  murder  of  Riccio.  Those 
were  Thomas  Scott  of  Cambusmichael,  then  sherifl'-deputo 
of  Perth,  and  Henry  Yair,  formerly  a  priest,  and  con- 
nected with  the  Chapel-Royal  of  Holyrood,  who  were  tried 
on  the  1st  of  April,  and  sentenced  to  be  hanged,  drawn, 
and  quartered.  Scott's  head  was  spiked  on  a  tower  of 
the  Palace,  and  that  of  Yair  on  the  Nether-bow.  Wil- 
liam Harlaw  and  John  Mowbray,  both  burgesses  of  Edin- 
burgh, who  were  tried  and  found  guilty  on  the  same  day 
with  the  two  others,  were  brought  to  the  place  of  execu- 
tion, and  pardoned  at  the  intercession  of  the  Earl  of 
Bothwell. 

Mary  soon  succeeded  in  detaching  Darnley  from  the 
party  of  the  assassins,  and  he  had  the  hardihood  to  deny 
having  had  any  connection  with  the  conspiracy.  Ruth- 
\en  and  his  associates  withdrew  from  the  Palace  to  the 
Earl  of  Morton's  house,  the  guards  were  removed,  and 
the  domestics  of  the  Queen  resumed  their  household  du- 
ties. This  appears  to  have  been  on  Monday,  and  at 
midnight  the  Queen  suddenly  left  Holyrood  for  the  royal 
castle  of  Dunbar,  of  which  Bothwell  was  keeper,  accom- 
panied by  Darnley,  Arthur  Erskine,  the  captain  of  the 
guard,  and  one  female  attendant.  Mary,  accompanied 
by  her  husband,  and  escorted  by  two  thousand  horsemen, 
came  to  Edinburgh  on  the  18th,  but,  instead  of  taking  up 
her  abode  in  Holyrood,  occupied  "  my  Lord  Home's  lodg- 
ing, callit  the  auld  bishope  of  Dunkell  his  lodeging  anent 
the  Salt  trone."*  A  few  days  afterwards  she  removed  to 
♦  Diurnal  of  Occurrents,  p.  91. 


anJKDER  OP  RICCIO.  69 

another  tenement  nearer  the  Castle,  probably  the  former 
domicile  of  her  mother,  the  Queen  Eegent,  on  the  Castle- 
hill. 

The  Queen  does  not  appear  to  have  been  often  resident 
in  the  Palace  till  after  the  birth  of  her  son  James  "VI.  in 
Edinburgh  Castle,  on  the  19th  of  June  1566.  After  her 
recovery  Mary  indulged  in  excursions  to  Alloa  House, 
hunting  expeditions  into  Peeblesshire  and  Perthshire,  and 
visits  to  Stirling  and  Drummond  Castles,  returning  to 
Edinburgh  occasionally  when  her  presence  was  required 
for  the  public  business.  Though  Damley,  who  had  been 
apparently  reconciled  to  her  at  Alloa  House  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the  French  ambassador  Mauvissiere,  either  fol- 
lowed the  Queen  or  accompanied  her  in  those  excursions, 
he  latterly  chose  to  remain  at  Stirling,  displaying  that  way- 
ward recklessness  peculiar  to  him,  and  annoying  Mary  by 
threatening  to  leave  the  kingdom.  The  Queen  was  occa- 
sionally at  Holyrood  in  August  and  September  1656,  dm'- 
ing  which  months  the  excursions  took  place,  and  on  the 
29th  of  the  latter  month  Damley  arrived  at  the  Palaco 
about  ten  in  the  evening.  The  Queen  on  the  morning  of 
that  day  received  a  letter  from  Lennox,  announcing  his 
inability  to  dissuade  his  son  from  his  intention  of  retiring 
to  the  Continent,  which  she  laid  before  the  Privy  Council. 
Damley  peremptorily  refused  to  enter  the  Palace  unless 
the  Earls  of  Moray,  Argyll,  and  Rothes,  the  Secretary 
Maitland  of  Lethington,  and  some  of  the  Officers  of  State 
who  were  within,  should  leave  it ;  and  the  Queen  conde- 
scended to  wait  on  him  at  the  entrance,  and  conducted 
him  to  her  own  apartments,  where  he  remained  with  her 
during  the  night.  She  questioned  him  about  his  design 
to  leave  Scotland,  and  requested  to  know  his  reasons  for 
60  extraordinary  a  project.    These  he  refused  to  assign, 


70  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

though  he  acknowledged  that  he  had  no  cause  of  discon- 
tent. On  the  following  day  the  Privy  Council  met  in  the 
Queen's  apartments,  and  argued  with  Darnley  respecting 
the  folly  of  the  design  which  he  had  formed,  either  of  his 
own  accord  or  at  the  instigation  of  others  for  some  sinister 
purpose ;  and  the  Queen  took  him  by  the  hand,  entreating 
hun  to  say  whether  she  had  ever  offended  him,  and  freely 
to  make  known  his  sentiments.  He  thought  proper  to 
deny  that  he  had  any  intention  of  leaving  the  kingdom  ; 
he  admitted  that  he  had  no  cause  of  complaint ;  and  he 
confessed  that  the  Queen  had  ever  been  to  him  indulgent 
and  affectionate.  He  then  abruptly  retu-ed  from  the 
Privy  Council,  saying  to  Mary^"  Adieu,  Madam,  you 
Bhall  not  see  me  for  a  long  space;"  and  to  the  Privy 
Council — "  Adieu,  gentlemen."  This  was  apparently  the 
last  time  Darnley  was  within  the  Palace,  from  which  he 
immediately  proceeded  to  his  father  at  Glasgow. 


CHAPTEB  IX. 


MURDER  OF  DARNLEY  AND  RISE  0¥ 
BOTHWELL. 

[(^ARNLEY'S  temper  had  now  Lecomo  so  capricious, 
and  his  carriage  so  unbearable  to  all  about  the 
'^M*^  Court,  that  the  dreadful  fate,  which  soon  befel 
him,  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  when  we  remember  the 
fierce  and  bloodthirsty  character  of  the  times.  The 
Queen  had  discovered  his  falsehood  and  duplicity  in 
relation  to  the  murder  of  her  secretary,  and,  before 
her  accouchement,  she  was  meditating  a  divorce,  and 
had  actually  sent  a  confidential  messenger  to  Rome  for 
that  purpose.  She  was  in  truth  so  miserable,  that  she 
also  entertained  an  intention  of  returning  to  France, 
and  of  entrusting  the  Government  of  the  kingdom  to 
a  Regency  composed  of  the  Earls  of  Moray,  Huntly, 
Mar,  Atholl,  and  Bothwell.  After  the  birth  of  James 
VI.,  however,  her  heart,  influenced  by  the  feelings  of 
a  young  mother,  relented  towards  Damley,  and  a  per- 
fect reconcihation  was  prevented  solely  by  his  own  head- 
strong and  capricious  conduct.  His  behaviour  in  the 
Palace,  when  he  abruptly  left  the  Privy  Council,  sealed 
his  fate,  and  it  was  now  determined  that  his  career  should 
be  brief.  The  whole  details  of  the  plot  against  Damley 
seem  to  have  been  finally  arranged  in  CraigmiUar  Castle, 


7^  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

in  November,  two  months  after  the  attempt  was  originally 

resolved  on. 

Bothwell  was  now  rising  in  the  Queen's  favour,  and 
as  his  residence  was  within  the  precincts  of  Holyrood,  he 
had  frequent  opportunities  of  evincing  his  devotedness  to 
her  interests.  Her  partiality  for  him,  though  he  was  ten 
years  her  senior,  and  had  married  Lady  Jane  Gordon  a 
few  months  before  the  birth  of  James  VI.,  had  been  early 
detected  by  Moray,  Maitland,  and  their  associates,  who 
artfully  flattered  his  vanity,  and  encouraged  an  ambition, 
daring  enough  at  any  time,  to  aspire  to  a  height  which  he 
had  never  before  contemplated.  On  the  6th  of  October, 
after  attending  a  meeting  of  the  Privy  Council,  Bothwell 
left  Edinburgh  to  quell  some  disturbances  on  the  Borders, 
and  to  prepare  the  frontier  districts  to  receive  the  Queen. 
It  is  alleged  by  Sir  James  Melville,  from  personal  observa- 
tion, that  Bothwell's  project,  for  the  murder  of  Darnley 
and  the  possession  of  the  Queen's  person,  should  be  dated 
from  the  time  that  he  was  sent  to  the  Border  ;  but  this 
was  his  own  private  scheme,  and  Moray,  Morton,  Mait- 
land, and  others,  were  in  a  plot  of  their  own,  which,  as 
already  stated,  was  formed  about  the  end  of  September. 

Mary,  accompanied  by  the  Officers  of  State,  and  the 
whole  Court,  left  Holyrood,  on  the  8th  of  October,  for  Jed- 
burgh, to  hold  justice-ayres,  the  very  day  on  which  Both- 
well,  who  had  set  out  on  the  6th,  was  severely  wounded 
in  the  hand  in  an  encounter  with  a  Border  leader,  named 
Elliot  of  Park,  at  Hermitage  Castle.  Darnley  was  resi- 
ding at  the  time  with  his  father  at  Glasgow.  It  would  be 
irrelevant  to  this  narrative  to  detail  the  Queen's  proceed- 
ings during  this  expedition — ^her  fatiguing  ride,  from 
Jedburgh  to  Hermitage  Castle  and  back,  in  one  day,  to 
visit  Bothwell,  when  she  was  informed  that  he  was 


MURDER  OF  DARNLEV.  73 

wounded — ^her  dangerous  illness  on  her  return  to  Jed- 
burgh— ^Darnley's  hasty  visit  to  her  after  her  recovery — 
and  her  progress  to  Edinburgh  by  Kelso,  Coldingham,  and 
Dunbar.  On  the  20th  of  November  the  Queen  arrived  at 
Craigmillar  Castle,  in  which  she  continued  to  reside,  in  a 
very  debilitated  state,  till  the  5th  December,  when  she 
removed  to  Holyrood.  During  Mary's  sojourn  in  Craig- 
millar she  was  visited  by  Darnley  on  the  26th,  and  he 
remained  with  her  a  week.  On  the  11th  of  December  tho 
Queen  left  Holyrood  for  Stirling  Castle,  to  be  present  at 
the  baptism  of  her  son,  and  returned  to  Holyrood  on  the 
14th  of  January  1566-7.  On  the  20th  she  had  become 
reconciled  to  Darnley,  who  had  exhibited  some  of  his 
vagaries  at  Stirling  on  occasion  of  the  royal  baptism, 
which  he  either  refused  or  was  not  allowed  to  witness, 
and  who  also  had  been  seized  with  smallpox  while  on 
his  way  from  StirHng  to  Glasgow.  On  the  24th  of  Janu- 
ary the  Queen  left  Holyrood  to  bring  Darnley  from 
Glasgow  to  Edinburgh,  he  having  partially  recovered  from 
his  sickness.  He  had  received  some  private  intelligence 
of  the  plots  against  him ;  he  was  aware  of  the  return  from 
exile  of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  who  regarded  him  as  tlio 
cause  of  all  his  sufferings ;  and  he  knew  that  among  his 
mortal  enemies,  who  had  never  forgiven  him  for  his 
desertion  of  them  after  the  murder  of  Eiccio,  were  some 
of  the  most  powerful  nobility,  who  now  enjoyed  the  confi- 
dence of  the  Queen.  At  his  interview  with  Mary  in 
Glasgow  he  expressed  great  contrition  for  his  errors, 
pleaded  his  youth,  the  few  friends  on  whom  he  could  now 
rely,  and  declared  his  unalterable  affection  to  herself. 
The  Queen  told  him,  that  as  he  was  scarcely  able  to  travel 
on  horseback,  she  had  brought  a  litter  to  carry  him  to 
Craigmillar,  where  she  intended  to  give  him  the  bath,  and 


74  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

added  that  the  air  of  that  place  would  be  more  salubrious 
for  a  convalescent  than  that  of  Holyrood. 

The  Queen  arrived  at  Edinburgh  in  company  with 
Darnley  upon  the  31st  of  January ;  but  the  house  of  the 
Provost  of  the  Church  of  St.  Mary-in-the  Fields,  commonly 
called  the  Kirk-of-Field,  on  the  site  of  the  present  Uni- 
versity, was  selected  for  his  residence,  in  preference  to 
Craigmillar  Castle. 

It  is  impossible  within  our  narrow  limits  to  enter  into 
the  details  of  the  dreadful  murd^er  of  Darnley  in  the  Kirk- 
of-Field  House,  early  in  the  morning  of  the  10th  of 
February.  The  Queen  had  passed  the  greater  part  of 
Sunday  the  9th  with  him,  on  the  most  affectionate  terms ; 
and  she,  at  first,  had  resolved  to  remain  all  night  in  the 
house.  She,  however,  recollected  an  engagement  to  honour 
with  her  presence  an  entertainment  at  Holyrood,  given 
on  occasion  of  the  marriage  of  Sebastian,  or  Sebastiani, 
a  foreign  domestic  of  the  Palace,  with  Margaret  Carwood, 
one  of  her  favourite  women.  When  Mary  left  Darnley 
she  kissed  him,  put  a  ring  on  his  finger  as  a  mark  of  affec- 
tion, and  bade  him  adieu  for  the  night.  In  the  mean- 
while, a  large  quantity  of  gunpowder  had  been  deposited 
in  the  "laiche  and  dame  [low  and  concealed]  pairts"  of 
the  house ;  and  one  of  the  parties  who  assisted  in  convey- 
ing it  to  "  Kirk-of-Field"  says,  that  as  they  were  returning 
towards  the  Abbay  "up  the  Black  Frier  Wind,  the 
Queues  grace  was  gangand  before  thame  with  licht 
torches."  *  Bothwell,  also,  left  the  Kirk-of-Field  House  at 
the  same  time  by  a  different  entrance,  and  joined  in  the 
festivities  at  the  Palace,  from  which,  however,  he  stole 
away  about  midnight. 

*  Declaration  of  William  Powrie.  Pitc&im's  Criminal  Trialsi 
vol.  i.  p.  *49a 


BIURDER  OP  DARNLEY.  75 

Early  in  the  morning  many  of  the  citizens  of  Edin- 
burgh were  awakened  by  a  loud  explosion,  and,  on  pro- 
ceeding to  the  spot,  they  found  that  the  house  had  been 
blown  up  with  gunpowder.  The  bodies  of  Damley  and  a 
page  who  slept  in  the  same  apartment  with  him  were  dis- 
covered lying  in  the  garden  adjoining ;  and  of  the  house 
of  Kirk-of-Field  "  ther  remainit  not  ano  stone  upon  ane 
other  undestroyit." 

The  general  voice  of  the  public  accused  the  Earl  of 
Both  well  of  being  the  perpetrator,  or  at  all  events,  the  in- 
stigator, of  this  abominable  murder ;  and  the  confessions 
of  his  guilty  associates,  who  afterwards  suffered  for  their 
crimes,  established  his  criminality  beyond  a  doubt.  At 
first,  it  appears,  he  had  some  hesitation  as  to  the  best  mode 
of  accompUshing  his  horrid  purpose ;  but  at  last,  as  one 
of  the  conspirators  confessed,  "  he  showed  them  how  it 
might  be  best  done  by  powder."  Bothwell  superintended 
the  conveyance  of  the  powder  to  the  "  Kingis  house"  in 
person — at  the  time  agreed  on  the  match  was  Ut  by  John 
Hepburn,  commonly  called  "  John  of  Bowtoun,"  a  cousin- 
german  of  the  Earl's,  and  Bothwell  himself  returning  to 
the  spot,  "  tarried  in  the  yaird  a  lang  time,  and,  when  he 
saw  that  the  matter  came  not  hastily  to  pass,  he  was 
angry,  and  would  have  gone  into  the  house  himself. 
Within  a  short  space,  however,  it  fyrit  .  .  .  and 
when  they  saw  the  house  rising  [riseand],  and  heard  the 
crack,  they  ran  their  way." 

When  Bothwell  entered  his  house  on  the  morning  of  the 
murder,  he  called  for  something  to  drink,  undressed,  and 
went  to  bed,  in  vcliich  he  was  scarcely  hrT  an  hour  when 
a  domestic  rushed  into  his  apartment,  announcing  in  the 
greatest  consternation  that  "  the  King's  house  was  blown 
up,  and  the  King  was  slain."    "  Fie,  treason  I"  exclaimed 


76  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

Bothwell  in  feigned  astonishment,  and  instantly  rose  and 
attired  himself.  He  was  immediately  joined  by  the  Earl 
of  Huntly,  his  brother-in-law,  who  was  in  the  plot,  and 
they  both  proceeded  to  the  Queen's  apartments  in  the 
Palace,  accompanied  by  several  persons  connected  with 
the  Court. 

When  Mary  was  informed  of  Darnley's  fate  she 
evinced  the  utmost  horror,  and  secluded  herself  in  her 
chamber,  overwhelmed  with  sorrow.  Early  in  the  day 
she  removed  to  the  Castle  for  security,  and  shut  herself 
up  in  a  close  apartment,  apparently  absorbed  in  grief  at 
the  awful  crime  which  had  made  her  a  second  time  a 
widow.  Meanwhile,  at  daybreak,  multitudes  of  the  citi- 
zens crowded  to  the  Kirk-of-Field.  Bothwell  soon  ap- 
peared with  a  guard,  to  prevent  any  minute  examination 
of  Darnley's  body,  which  was  removed  to  a  house  in  the 
vicinity,  where  it  lay  till  it  was  inspected  by  the  Privy 
Council.  It  was  then  earned  to  Holyrood,  where  it  lay 
in  state  for  five  days  after  the  murder.*  On  the  evening 
of  the  15th  of  February,  it  was  privately  deposited  by 
torchlight  in  the  royal  vault  in  the  Chapel-Royal,  in  pre- 
sence of  the  Lord  Justice-Clerk  Bellenden,  and  of  Sir 
John  Stewart  of  Traquair,  whom  the  Queen  had  recently 
appointed  Captain  of  her  Guard.  On  the  23d  of  March 
a  "solemn  saule  mass,  with  a  dergie"  was  sung  in  the 
chapel  of  Holyroodhouse  for  the  soul  of  the  departed,  by 
the  express  command  of  the  Queen.f 

♦  In  the  Lord  Treasurer's  Accounts,  there  is  an  entry  of  £40 
paid  to  "  Martin  Pitcanit,  ypothegar,"  for  embalming  "  the  King's 
Grace's  Majestie's  umquhill  bodie." 

t  Birrel's  Diary,  p.  7. 


CHAPTEK  X 


MARY  AND  BOTHWELL. 

l^ARY  avoided  Holyrood,  and  remained  in  the 
Ja  Castle.  Her  physicians,  alarmed  for  her  health, 
sent  a  statement  to  the  Privy  Council,  who  ad- 
vised her  to  try  a  change  of  air  for  a  short  period,  and  on 
the  16th  of  February,  the  day  after  Darnley's  funeral,  she 
rode  to  Seton  House,  accompanied  by  the  Earls  of  Both- 
well,  Huntly,  and  Argyll,  Archbishop  Hamilton  of  St. 
Andrews,  Lords  Fleming  and  Livingstone,  and  Maitland 
of  Lethington,  the  whole  of  whom  were  implicated  in  the 
plot,  and  about  one  hundred  attendants.  The  Queen 
continued  at  Seton  House  till  the  7th  of  March,  and  it 
was  remarked  that  Bothwell  advanced  in  her  favour,  and 
enjoyed  the  most  famihar  intercourse  with  her.  On  the 
7th  of  March  she  returned  to  Edinburgh  Castle,  and 
again  rode  to  Seton  House  on  the  9  th,  remaining  only  one 
night. 

Bothwell  and  others  continued  to  be  publicly  accused 
of  Darnley's  murder,  yet  no  prosecution  of  the  alleged 
delinquents  was  instituted.  An  affected  zeal  was  at 
length  displayed  to  bring  the  murderers  to  justice,  never- 
theless Httle  was  really  done  in  the  matter.  On  the  mock 
trial  and  acquittal  of  Bothwell  on  the  12th  of  April  at 
Edinburgh,  it  is  unnecessary  to  enlarge.    On  the  day  of 


7  b  HISTORY  OF  EOLYROOD. 

the  trial  Sir  William  Drury  arrived  in  Edinburgh  with  a 
letter  from  Elizabeth,  and  found  the  city  in  possession  of 
Bothwell's  friends  and  followers,  to  the  number  of  four 
thousand  men  and  two  hundred  hackbutters.  His  re- 
tainers surrounded  the  Palace,  and  perambulated  the 
streets  of  the  city;  while  the  Castle,  of  which  he  had  been 
appointed  governor  on  the  19th  of  March,  was  at  his 
command.  The  Queen  was  then  in  the  Palace,  and  when 
Drury  presented  himself  to  deliver  the  letter,  the  purport 
of  which  was  suspected,  he  was  rudely  designated  an 
"  Enghsh  villain,"  who  had  come  to  stop  the  trial,  and 
was  informed  that  the  Queen  was  too  busy  with  other 
aftairs  of  the  day.  At  that  moment  Both  well  and  Mait- 
land  of  Lethington  came  out  of  the  Palace,  and  Drury 
gave  Elizabeth's  epistle  to  the  latter,  who  retm-ned  with 
Bothwell  and  delivered  it  to  Mary.  They  soon  appeared 
and  mounted  their  horses,  and  Drury  was  informed  by 
Maitland  that  the  Queen  was  asleep,  and  could  not  be 
disturbed.  This  was  immediately  discovered  to  be  a 
falsehood ;  for  a  servant  of  the  French  ambassador  Le 
Croc,  who  was  standing  near  Drury,  looking  up  towards 
the  Palace,  saw  and  pointed  out  the  Queen  and  Mary 
Fleming,  Maitland's  wife,  standing  at  a  window.  It  was 
also  observed  that  the  Queen  gave  Bothwell  a  friendly 
salute  as  he  rode  out  of  the  court-yard  of  the  Palace  to 
his  pretended  trial.  He  was  acquitted,  and  two  days 
afterwards  he  increased  the  excitement  against  him  by 
carrying  some  part  of  the  Eegalia  at  the  opening  of  the 
Parliament.  The  Queen  on  this  occasion  declined  the 
ancient  custom  of  a  civic  guard  from  Holyrood  formed 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Magistrates,  preferring  a  com- 
pany of  hackbutters. 

The  degi'adation  of  Mary  was  now  about  to  be  accom- 


MARY  AND  BOTHWELL.  75 

plished.  On  tlie  21st  of  April  she  left  Holyrood  to  visit 
the  infant  Prince  at  Stirling  Castle,  and  when  returning 
on  the  24th,  Bothwell,  at  the  head  of  eight  hundi'ed  horse- 
men, seized  her  person  near  Almond  Bridge,  about  six 
miles  from  Edinburgh,  and  eleven  from  Linhthgow.  He 
conveyed  the  Queen  to  his  castle  of  Dunbar,  and  two 
days  afterwards  he  commenced  a  process  of  divorce  from 
his  Countess  in  the  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrew's  Court, 
and  in  the  Commissary  Court,  recently  instituted  by  the 
Queen.  In  the  former,  his  plea  was  founded  on  consan- 
guinity, though  Lady  Jane  Gordon,  whom  he  had  married 
only  a  few  months  before  the  birth  of  James  VI.,  was 
merely  his  cousin  in  the  fourth  degree  of  relationship.  In 
the  latter  Court  it  was  for  adultery  committed  by  him,  at 
the  instance  of  his  Countess.  The  marriage  was  declared 
null  in  the  Archbishop's  Court  on  the  7th  of  May,  four 
days  after  the  Consistorial  Court  had  pronounced  a  similar 
decision. 

After  a  brief  residence  in  Dunbar  Castle  with  the  man 
universally  accused  of  the  murder  of  her  husband,  Mary 
rode  with  him  to  Edinburgh.  As  it  was  then  believed 
that  Bothwell  by  violence  gained  possession  of  the 
Queen,  the  gates  were  ordered  to  be  shut,  the  citizena 
ran  to  arms,  and  the  artillery  of  the  Castle  was  fired.  On 
the  6th  of  May,  the  third  day  after  the  divorce  had  been 
pronounced  in  the  Consistorial  Court  at  the  instance  of 
Lady  Jane  Gordon  for  adultery,  and  on  the  day  before  it 
was  declared  in  the  Court  of  the  Archbishop  of  St, 
Andrews,  on  the  pretence  of  consanguinity,  the  Queen 
entered  the  city  by  the  West  Port,  and  rode  through  the 
Grassmarket,  and  up  the  West  Bow  to  the  Castle,  Both- 
well,  on  foot,  leading  her  horse  by  the  bridle — a  sight  wit- 
nessed by  her  friends  with  the  deepest  sorrow,  and  by  her 


80  mSTORY   OP  HOLYROOD. 

enemies  with  exultation  and  derision.  On  the  8th  of  May, 
the  day  after  the  divorce  was  declared  in  the  Archbishop's 
Court,  a  proclamation  was  issued  at  Holyrood,  announcing 
that  the  Queen  had  resolved  to  marry  Bothwell,  and  ou 
the  11th  she  removed  with  him  to  the  Palace.  The  pro- 
clamation of  the  banns  of  marriage  was  reluctantly  per- 
formed by  John  Craig,  the  colleague  of  Knox,  for  which 
he  was  afterwards  vehemently  assailed  in  the  General 
Assembly. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  the  Queen  created  Bothwell  Duko 
of  Orkney  and  Marquis  of  Fife,  placing  the  ducal  coronet 
on  his  head  with  her  own  hands  in  the  Palace.  The 
marriage-contract  was  signed  on  the  13th,  and  on  Thurs- 
day the  15th,  the  unhappy  nuptials  were  celebrated, 
according  to  the  new  form,  by  Adam  Bothwell,  ex-Bishop 
of  Orkney,  in  the  council-hall  of  the  Palace,  at  the  early 
hour  of  four  in  the  morning.  The  ceremony  was  prefaced 
by  a  sermon  by  ex-Bishop  Bothwell  from  the  second 
chapter  of  the  Book  of  Genesis,  in  which  he  enlarged  on 
the  bridegroom's  penitence  for  his  former  life,  and  his  re- 
solution to  amend  and  conform  to  the  discipline  of  the 
Protestant  preachers.  The  event  was  not  attended  by 
the  pageants  and  rejoicings  usual  on  such  occasions,  and 
few  of  the  leading  nobility  were  in  attendance. 

Although  Mary,  after  the  marriage,  assumed  a  gay  attire 
in  Holyrood,  and  frequently  rode  out  with  Bothwell,  and 
although  he  appeared  anxious  to  treat  her  with  respect, 
refusing  to  be  covered  in  her  presence,  a  species  of 
homage  which  she  occasionally  resented  in  a  sportive 
manner  by  snatching  his  bonnet,  and  putting  it  on  his 
head,  yet  at  times  the  passionate  temper  of  the  man 
violated  all  decorum,  and  those  who  saw  the  Queen  in 
private  soon  perceived  that  she  was  unhappy.    It  was 


MARY  AND  BOTHWELL.  81 

too  evident,  indeed,  that  she  was  suffering  intense  mental 
agony,  and  her  feelings  of  discomfort,  on  the  very  evening 
of  the  day  of  her  marriage  to  Bothwell,  are  described  by 
the  French  ambassador  Le  Croc,  who  visited  her  in  the 
Palace  at  her  own  request.  Ho  says  that  a  strange 
formality  was  apparent  between  the  Queen  and  Bothwell, 
which  she  entreated  Le  Croc  to  excuse,  saying  that,  if 
he  ever  saw  her  sad,  it  was  because  she  had  no  wish  to 
be  happy,  which  she  never  could  be,  as  she  wished  only 
for  death.  Le  Croc  also  mentions  that  on  a  certain  day, 
when  alone  with  Bothwell  in  a  closet,  she  called  aloud 
for  a  knife  to  kill  herself,  which  was  heard  by  some  of 
the  household  in  an  adjoining  room.  Sir  James  Melville 
states  that  the  Queen  was  so  "  disdainfully  handlit,"  and 
with  such  "  reproachful  language,"  that  in  the  presence  of 
himself  and  Arthur  Erskine  she  demanded  a  knife  to 
"stick  herself" — "or  else,"  she  said,  "I  shall  drowm 
myself."  Mary  had  many  warnings  not  to  marry  Both- 
well,  and  she  was  now  rapidly  approaching  the  crisis  of 
her  fate  in  Scotland. 

For  a  short  period  after  their  marriage  the  Queen  and 
Bothwell  publicly  conducted  themselves  as  if  they  had 
no  enemies ;  and  when  informed  of  the  private  meetings 
of  their  opponents,  Mary  spoke  of  them  with  contempt, 
observing  on  one  occasion — "  Atholl  is  feeble ;  for  Argyll, 
I  know  well  how  to  stop  his  mouth ;  as  for  Morton,  his 
boots  are  new  pulled  off,  and  still  soiled;  he  shall  be 
sent  back  to  his  old  quarters" — alluding  to  his  recent 
return  from  banishment  to  England ;  but  an  alarum  was 
soon  to  be  sounded  to  the  nation,  calling  on  all  true  sub- 
jects to  rescue  the  Queen  from  the  power  of  the  man  to 
whom  she  had  so  fatally  allied  herself.  A  formidable 
confederacy  was  organized  for  seizing  her  and  Bothwell 


82  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

within  the  walls  of  Holyrood— for  there  they  both  re- 
sided, the  latter  being  too  cautious  to  leave  Mary  at 
liberty,  and  appearing,  indeed,  to  think  it  necessary  tQ 
watch  her  with  the  greatest  strictness.  The  Earl  of 
Argyll  sent  private  information  to  the  Queen  of  the  medi- 
tated assault  on  the  Palace,  and,  in  consequence,  she  and 
her  vile  husband  removed  to  Borthwick  Castle  on  the  6th 
of  June.  From  this  place  she  fled,  in  the  disguise  of  a 
page,  to  Dunbar  Castle  on  the  11th  of  June,  and  on  the 
12th  a  proclamation,  following  on  an  act  of  the  Privy 
Council,  summoned  the  lieges  to  convene  from  all  the 
principal  towns  to  liberate  the  Queen  from  the  thraldom 
of  the  detested  Bothwell.  Finding  that  her  army,  though 
well  disposed  to  fight  in  her  own  cause,  was  reluctant  to 
support  her  husband,  Mary  surrendered  herself  to  the 
confederated  nobility  at  Oaiberry  hill,  near  Musselburgh, 
on  the  15th  of  June  1567  She  never  again  saw  Both- 
well,  for  he  fled  with  precipitation  before  the  Queen  sur- 
rendered herself;  and,  sailmg  to  the  north,  became  a 
corsair  among  the  Orkney  islands,  till,  having  been  seized 
by  a  Danish  vessel,  he  was  immured  in  a  dungeon,  where 
he  terminated  his  guilty  life ;  solemnly  declaring  before 
his  death  that  the  Queen  was  innocent  of  complicity  in 
the  murder  of  Darnley. 

Mary,  now  the  captive  of  her  own  subjects,  was 
brought  to  Edinburgh,  where  the  lower  classes  re- 
ceived her  with  insult  and  cries  of  indignation.  Almost 
naked,  and  disfigured  with  dust  and  tears,  she  rode  be- 
tween the  Earls  of  Morton  and  AthoU,  through  the  pres- 
sure of  the  infuriated  multitude,  and  was  lodged  in  a 
house  in  the  High  Street,  known  by  the  nama  of  the 
Black  Turnpike.  She  was  afterwards  removed  to  Holy- 
rood,  and  tie  citizens  who  had  apparently  relented  to- 


MABY  AND  BOTHW£LL.  83 

wards  her  in  her  now  defenceless  position,  were  assured 
by  the  insurgent  lords  that  she  should  speedily  be  libe- 
rated. Her  confinement  had,  however,  been  determined 
on,  and,  accordingly,  on  the  night  of  the  16th  of  June  she 
was  hastily  conveyed  to  Lochleven  Castle,  under  the 
charge  of  Lords  Ruthven  and  Lindsay.  Before  issuing 
from  the  Palace  she  was  compelled  to  relinquish  the  ap- 
parel suited  to  her  rank  and  disguise  herself,  so  as  not  to 
be  recognized,  and  was  not  permitted  even  to  carry  a 
change  of  dress  along  with  her. 

Thus  did  Mary  Stuart  bid  adieu  to  Holyrood,  the 
Palace  of  her  fathers,  whose  halls  were  never  again  to  be 
brightened  with  the  lustre  of  her  presence,  though  des- 
tined, in  after  ages,  to  be  lit  by  the  twilight  of  her 
memory,  and  visited  by  pilgrims  from  every  clime,  the 
votaries  of  her  beauty  and  her  sufferings.  Her  subsequent 
career  may  be  told  in  a  few  words.  In  the  rude  tower  of 
Lochleven,  on  an  islet  where  she  could  scarce  walk  fifty 
yards  in  one  direction,  she  was  detained  for  nearly  a 
year.  While  in  this  miserable  abode,  the  Lords  of  the 
Secret  Council  despatched  Lord  Lindsay,  the  sternest  of 
the  insurgent  nobles,  to  compel  her  to  renounce  the  crown 
in  favour  of  her  infant  son.  Mary,  it  would  appear,  though 
desolate  and  depressed,  displayed  considerable  reluctance 
to  acquiesce  in  this  extreme  measure ;  and  Lindsay,  with 
a  brutal  unmanliness,  that  ill  became  the  chivalry  of  his 
house,  squeezed  the  arm  of  the  lovely  Queen  in  his  iron 
glove,  to  compel  her  to  subscribe  the  deed  of  renuncia- 
tion. On  the  2d  of  May  1568  she  escaped  from  her 
prison-house,  and  was  received  on  the  opposite  shore  by 
a  powerful  band  of  the  Hamiltons,  her  faithful  followers, 
who  escorted  her  to  a  place  of  safety.  Multitudes  rushed 
to  arms  at  the  news  of  her  deliverance.    Her  beauty,  and 


84  HISTORY  OF  flOLYROOD. 

the  gentleness  of  her  manners,  were  fresh  in  the  memory 
of  all,  and  her  errors  were  almost  obliterated  by  the  severity 
of  the  punishment  by  which  they  had  been  followed.  Her 
army,  however,  was  defeated  chiefly  by  its  own  rashness, 
on  the  field  of  Langside,  on  the  13th  of  May,  and  she 
was  compelled  to  be  a  fugitive.  At  this  moment  of  peril 
she  might  have  escaped  to  France,  the  country  of  her 
happiest  hours  and  fondest  recollections,  where  she  was 
assured  of  a  cordial  reception.  Unhappily,  however,  she 
preferred  throwing  herself  on  the  generosity  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  fled  into  England,  against  the  entreaties  of 
her  kneeling  followers — there  to  be  the  victim  of  one  long 
train  of  dissimulation  and  vindictiveness ;  and,  at  length, 
after  a  weary  imprisonment  of  more  than  eighteen  years, 
to  perish  on  the  block,  by  the  cruel  and  unjustifiable  man*- 

date  of  that 

false  woman, 

Ber  sister  and  her  fae. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


HOLYllOOD  IN  THE  REIGN  OF  JAMES  VL 

^HE  minority  of  James  VI.  was  passed  in  Stirling 
Castle.  About  the  end  of  September  1579,  the 
King,  then  in  his  fourteenth  year,  made  his  first 
public  entry  into  Edinburgh,  and  proceeded  direct  to 
Ilolyrood.  On  this  occasion  the  office  of  Lord  High 
Chamberlain  was  revived,  and  conferred  on  Esme  Stuart, 
Lord  D'Aubigny,  the  King's  cousin,  who  had  recently 
arrived  from  France,  and  was  soon  afterwards  created 
Duke  of  Lennox.  James  VI.,  however,  was  not  often  a 
resident  in  Holyrood  till  some  years  afterwards.  Tho 
seizure  of  his  person  in  the  Eaid  of  Ruthven,  in  August 
1582,  enabled  the  parties  connected  with  that  affair  to 
bring  him  to  Edinburgh  ;  and  in  a  convention  held  in  the 
Palace,  it  was  proposed  to  raise  two  hundred  horse  and 
two  hundred  foot,  nominally  for  his  protection,  though 
the  real  object  was  to  secure  his  detention.  The  King 
contrived  to  escape  from  his  keepers  in  the  following 
year  in  Fifeshire,  and  the  next  notice  which  occurs  of 
him  in  connection  with  Holyrood  is  on  the  13th  May 
1586,  when  he  convened  in  the  Palace  all  the  Nobility 
who  were  at  feud,  and,  after  a  banquet,  caused  them  to 
"  shake  hands  togidder,  and  to  drink  ane  to  ane  ither." 
He  then  caused  them  to  form  a  procession  to  the  Cress  in 
the  High  Street,  walking  hand  in  hand,  he  himself  ac- 


86  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

companying  them,  that  the  citizens  might  witness  the 
apparent  reconciliation  he  had  eJBfected.  The  Town- 
Council  were  as  usual  compelled  to  be  parties  to  this 
exhibition,  by  providing  copious  libations  of  wine  at  the 
Cross. 

On  the  6th  of  May  1590,  James  VI.  brought  his  Queen, 
Anne  of  Denmark,  to  Holyrood,  and  on  the  17th  of  that 
month  she  was  crowned  in  the  Chapel-Royal.  On  the 
19  th  they  publicly  entered  Edinburgh  by  the  West  Port, 
and  proceeded  through  the  city  to  the  Palace,  amid  great 
rejoicings.  It  is  recorded  of  the  pageant  by  an  eye- 
witness, that  "  young  boys,  with  artificial  wings,  at  her 
entrey  did  flee  towards  her,  and  presented  her  two  silver 
keys  of  the  city ;  the  Castell  shot  off  all  its  ordnance  fivo 
several  times,  and  at  night  the  towne  was  put  full  of 
bonefyres."  *  On  this  occasion  the  Magistrates  proceeded 
to  the  Palace,  and  presented  the  Queen  with  a  rich  jewel, 
which  James  had  deposited  with  them  as  security  for  a 
conbiderable  sum  of  money  he  had  borrowed  from  them ; 
and  they  were  compelled  to  take  his  verbal  promise  as  a 
pledge  of  payment,  which,  however,  he  never  found  it 
convenient  to  recollect.  James  had  rather  a  defective 
memory  in  regard  to  such  matters. 

The  feastings  and  rejoicings  continued  at  Holyrood 
and  in  the  city  for  a  month,  when  the  Danish  attendants 
of  the  Queen  departed,  amply  stored  with  presents. 
Nevertheless  the  King's  pecuniary  raids  against  the 
Magistrates  continued ;  and,  summoning  them  one  day  to 
the  Palace,  he  obliged  them  to  borrow  from  him  £40,000 
Scots,  a  part  of  the  Queen's  marriage-portion  recently 
paid  him,  exacting  from  them  double  the  rate  of  interest 
for  which  they  could  have  borrowed  the  money  elsewhere. 
*  Birrel's  Diary,  p.  25. 


»EIGN  OF  JAMES  VI*  87 

In  all  his  Epeculations  with  the  Town-Council,  the  King 
was  zealously  supported  by  the  Incorporated  Trades,  the 
deacons  of  which  he  had  contrived  to  attach  to  his 
interest. 

The  violent  conduct  of  Francis,  Earl  otf  Bothwell,  was 
at  this  time  conspicuous.  One  of  his  projects  was  to  se- 
cure the  King's  person.  On  the  22d  of  June  1591,  he 
escaped  from  Edinburgh  Castle,  and,  after  a  brief  sojourn 
in  Caithness,  he  repaired  to  the  English  Border,  where  he 
endeavoured  to  raise  a  force  to  overawe  the  Eng.  Under 
the  pretence  of  expelling  his  enemy,  the  Sub-Chancellor 
Maitland,  from  the  royal  councils,  and  favoured,  also,  by 
some  of  the  King's  attendants,  Bothwell  appeared  in  Edin- 
burgh on  the  27th  of  December  1591,  and  was  admitted, 
late  in  the  evening,  into  the  court-yard  of  Holyrood.  His 
adherents  immediately  raised  the  cry — "  Justice  1  justice ! 
a  Bothwell  I  a  Bothwell  1"  The  forfeited  Earl  then  has- 
tened to  the  King's  apartments,  the  doors  of  which  he 
found  carefully  secured  —  notice  of  his  intended  assault 
having  been  received  by  Sir  James  MelviUe,  and  his 
brother  Sir  Robert  two  days  previously,  and  the  King  also 
having  received  sufiBcient  warning,  which  he  thought 
proper  to  disregard.  Bothwell  called  for  fire  to  bum  the 
doors,  which  resisted  his  weapons,  and  the  Queen's  apart- 
ments were  also  attacked,  on  the  supposition  that  the 
King  would  be  found  in  one  of  them.  The  door  of  a 
gallery  was  successfully  defended  by  Henry  Lindsay, 
Master  of  the  Queen's  Household,  and  the  King  was  con- 
veyed to  a  turret  of  the  Palace,  which  he  reached  oppor- 
tunely while  the  invaders  were  still  assailing  the  doora 
with  hammers,  and  calling  for  fire  to  consume  them. 
During  this  tumult,  the  brother  of  Scot  of  Balwearie  was 
shot  in  the  thigh,  and  two  of  the  King's  domestics  were 


88  mSTOKY  OP  HOLYROOD 

killed  on  the  south  side  of  the  Palace.  Bothwell  was  at 
length  compelled  to  retire,  leaving  nine  of  his  followers  in 
custody,  who  were  hanged  without  trial  next  day  betwixt 
the  Girth  Cross  and  the  porch  of  the  Palace. 

The  King  went  on  the  day  after  this  attempt  to  St. 
Giles's  Church,  and  made  a  speech  to  the  congregation  in 
reference  to  his  deliverance.  The  outrage  revived  the 
prosecutions  against  Bothwell  and  his  accomphces,  among 
whom  are  enumerated  his  Countess,  James  Douglas  of 
Spott,  Archibald  Wauchope,  younger  of  Niddry,  and 
several  other  persons.  On  the  5th  of  June  1592,  the 
Parliament  ratified  the  forfeiture  of  Bothwell  and  several 
others,  for  "  invading  his  Majesty's  maist  noble  person  by 
fyre  and  sword,  breaking  up  his  chamber-doors  with 
fore-hammers,  and  cruelly  slaying  his  highness'  servants.'* 

Bothwell  either  cared  little  for  those  proceedings 
against  him,  or  he  was  rendered  desperate  by  being  out- 
lawed and  attainted.  Although  he  escaped  with  difiiculty 
from  the  outrage  in  Holyrood,  he  made  a  second  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  to  secure  the  King's  person  on  the  17th 
of  July  1592  in  Falkland  Palace,  where  James  usually 
resided  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months.  So  nu- 
merous are  the  denouncings  of  Bothwell,  his  partisans,  and 
"  resetters,"  that  one  would  almost  think  the  Government 
did  nothing  else  than  level  anathemas  against  them.  Yet 
he  had  many  powerful  friends,  and  he  formed  a  party  in  hia 
favour  among  the  Presbyterian  ministers,  whose  influence 
was  so  considerable,  that  whenever  they  were  pleased  to 
annoy  the  King  they  could  defy  the  Government.  It  is  said 
that  Queen  EHzabeth  interceded  for  him,  and  that  he  was 
invited  from  exile  by  the  Duke  of  Lennox,  the  Earl  of  Atholl, 
and  Lord  Ochiltree.  The  repeated  proclamations  against 
him  had  apparently  excited  a  sympathy  in  his  favour,  es- 


REIGN  OP  JAMES  VI.  89 

pecially  among  the  secret  eucmies  of  the  court  favourites. 
Bothwell  soon  returned  to  Edinburgh,  and  it  was  arranged 
that  he  should  present  himself  before  the  King  in  Holy- 
rood  on  the  24th  of  July  1593,  some  weeks  after  his  at- 
tainder in  the  High  Court  of  Justiciary.  It  is  stated  that 
Bothwell  seized  the  gates  of  the  Palace,  and  was  followed 
by  a  number  of  armed  retainers  into  the  royal  apartments. 
He  had  lodged  the  preceding  night  in  Lady  Gowrie's 
house  behind  the  Palace.  He  found  the  King  coming 
from  the  back  stair  in  the  utmost  consternation,  carrying 
his  "  breeks  in  his  hand ;"  and  James,  without  attendants, 
and  unable  to  resist  a  band  of  armed  men,  called  on  him 
to  consummate  his  treason  by  piercing  his  sovereign  to 
the  heart.  Bothwell,  however,  laid  down  his  sword,  fell 
on  his  knees,  and  implored  pardon.  James  yielded  from 
necessity  to  his  entreaties,  and  a  few  days  afterwards  ac- 
tually signed  a  capitulation  with  this  rebellious  and  out- 
lawed peer,  to  whom  he  was  now  in  reality  a  prisoner,  in 
which  he  pledged  himself  to  remit  all  his  past  offences, 
Bothwell  on  his  part  promising  to  withdraw  from  the 
court,  and  live  peaceably  on  his  own  estate.  This  state 
of  things  was  of  short  duration,  and  it  was  evidently  im- 
possible for  him  to  remain  in  quietude.  He  eventually 
fled  to  England,  from  which  Elizabeth  expelled  him  in 
compliance  with  the  urgent  request  of  James  VI.,  who 
had  adjusted  his  quarrels  with  the  preachers,  and  induced 
them  to  excommunicate  the  fugitive.  Bothwell  retired 
to  the  Continent,  and  lived  several  years  in  obscurity  and 
indigence,  plunging  into  the  lowest  and  most  infamous 
debauchery,  in  which  condition  he  died,  the  King  refus- 
ing to  listen  to  any  intercession  on  his  behalf,  or  to  be 
influenced  by  offers  of  submission. 

James  VI.  continued  to  reside  in  Holyrood,  at  timea 


90  mSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

varying  the  scene  by  resorting  to  Linlithgow,  Stirling, 
Falkland,  and  to  Dunfermline,  which  was  his  Queen^a 
jointure  palace,  and  the  birth-place  of  some  of  his  chil- 
dren. The  birth  of  his  son  Prince  Henry,  in  1594,  in- 
duced the  Magistrates  of  Edinburgh  to  send  ten  tuns  of 
wine  to  Holyrood,  and  they  commissioned  a  hundred  of 
the  citizens  to  be  present  at  the  baptism.  As  the  gift 
was  unexpected  and  peculiarly  acceptable,  James  invited 
the  Magistrates  to  the  baptism  of  the  Princess  EHzabeth 
in  Holyrood,  on  the  28th  of  November  1596.  This  was 
considered  so  complementary  an  act  by  the  civic  func- 
tionaries, that  they  engaged  to  give  the  Princess  10,000 
merks  on  her  marriage-day,  which  they  honourably  ful- 
filled, adding  5000  to  the  sum. 

On  the  17th  of  December  1596  occurred  the  seriou3 
riot,  in  which  the  mob  attacked  the  King,  who  was  trans- 
acting some  state  business  in  the  Tolbooth.  This  dis- 
order was  occasioned  by  the  Presbyterian  ministers,  be- 
tween whom  and  the  King  a  mortal  feud  had  existed  for 
some  time,  and  who  were  then  assembled  in  St.  Giles's 
Church.  It  was  announced  to  the  King  that  they  were 
coming  to  murder  him,  and  the  utmost  excitement  pre- 
vailed, some  exclaiming — "For  God  and  the  King!" 
and  others— "For  God  and  the  Kirkl"  The  room  in 
which  the  King  sat  was  thronged  with  a  tumultuous  as- 
semblage, and  the  building  surrounded  by  an  infuriated 
mob,  and  James's  person  might  have  been  endangered, 
"  had  not  his  Majesty's  standard-bearer,  John  Wat,  dea- 
con-conveener  of  the  trades,  drawn  up  his  lads,  the  soul- 
diers  of  the  Blue  Blanket,  and  kept  the  rabble  back  till 
their  fever  cooled,  and  the  Earl  of  Mar,  from  the  Castell, 
sent  a  company  of  musquiteers  to  guard  the  King."* 
*  Pennecuik's  Historical  Account  of  the  Blue  Blanket 


REIGN  OP  JAMES  VI.  91 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  however,  James  and  his 
Privy  Council  departed  to  Linlithgow,  and  a  proclamation 
was  issued,  declaring  Edinburgh  to  be  a  dangerous  resi- 
dence for  the  court,  and  for  the  administration  of  justice, 
and  ordering  the  judges,  the  nobihty,  and  others,  to  retire 
from  the  city,  and  not  to  return  without  the  royal  permis- 
sion. On  the  20th  the  Magistrates  were  ordered  to  ap- 
prehend and  commit  to  the  Castle  ten  of  the  leading 
Presbyterian  preachers,  who  were  summoned  to  appear 
before  the  Privy  Council  on  the  23d,  to  answer  for  their 
seditious  conduct,  and  on  the  25th  they  and  some  of  the 
citizens  were  denounced  as  rebels.  Edward  Johnncs- 
toune,  merchant,  burgess  of  Edinburgh,  was  tried  for 
being  art  and  part  with  the  "  seditious  raskallis,"  and  was 
fined  3500  merks.*  Those  proceedings  were  followed  by 
several  stringent  measures  against  the  city;  and  the  in- 
habitants were  in  a  state  of  despair  at  the  threat  to 
deprive  Edinburgh  of  its  advantages  as  the  seat  of  the 
court  and  of  the  Supreme  Judicature.  On  the  last  day 
of  December  the  King  returned  to  Holyrood,  and  ap- 
pointed several  noblemen  to  take  possession  of  the  city 
gates,  whUe  he  proceeded  to  St.  Giles's  Church  to  hear  a 
sermon  by  Mr.  David  Lindsay  of  Leith ;  after  which  he 
rose  and  addressed  the  congregation,  denouncing  the 
seditious  ministers.  The  interposition  of  Queen  Elizabeth 
afforded  James,  who  was  actuated  more  by  policy  than 
incHnation,  a  pretext  for  abating  his  resentment;  and  a 
reconciliation  was  effected  on  certain  conditions,  one  of 
which  was  that  the  city  should  pay  a  fine  of  20,000,  or, 
according  to  Birrel,  30,000  merks.  This  was  willingly 
done,  although  the  coffers  were  in  a  deplorably  low  con- 
dition, and  the  quarrel  ended  in  a  carousal  of  the  Town- 
*  Pitcaira's  Trials,  vol  ii.  p.  29. 


92  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

Council,  at  which  the  King  was  present,  drinking  wiUi 
the  "Bailies  and  Deacons,"  while  the  bells  of  St.  Giles's 
sounded  their  peals,  and  bands  of  music  paraded  tho 
streets. 

In  1598  Holyrood  received  a  royal  visitor  in  the  per- 
son of  Philip,  Duke  of  Holstein,  the  brother  of  Queen 
Anne,  who  arrived  in  Edinburgh  on  the  14th  of  March. 
Tlie  Town-Council  invited  him  to  a  banquet  in  "Mac- 
morran's  lodging"  on  the  2d  of  May,  at  which  the  King 
and  Queen  were  present,  and  on  the  3d  of  June  the  Duke 
embarked  at  Leith  for  Denmark. 

The  death  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  on  the  24th  day  of 
March  1603,  obtained  for  James  VI.  the  great  object  of 
his  ambition,  the  crown  of  England.  Sir  Robert  Carey, 
unknown  to  the  English  Privy  Council,  instantly  left 
London  for  Edinburgh,  and  arrived  at  Holyrood  with  re* 
markable  celerity,  considering  the  state  of  the  roads  in 
those  times.  Carey  was  well  known  to  James  VI.,  into 
whose  good  graces  he  had  insinuated  himself,  when 
he  came  to  Scotland  with  Secretary  Walsingham.  The 
King  had  retired  before  Carey  appeared  at  Holyrood,  but 
he  was  quickly  admitted,  and  conveyed  to  the  royal  bed  ■ 
chamber,  where  he  knelt,  and  saluted  James  as  King  of 
England.  He  was  thus  the  first  person  to  announce  to 
James  VI.  his  accession.  The  King  gave  him  his  hand 
to  kiss,  and  bade  him  welcome.  Carey,  after  narrating 
the  particulars  of  Elizabeth's  decease,  told  the  King, 
that,  instead  of  bringing  letters  from  the  English  Privy 
Council,  he  had  purposely  avoided  them ;  but  he  could 
produce  an  undoubted  evidence  of  his  veracity,  and 
thereupon  he  presented  a  sapphire  ring.  This  ring 
was  from  Lady  Scroope,  Carey's  sister,  a  lady  con- 
nected with  Elizabeth's  Court,  with  whom  James  had 


REIGN  OP  JAMES  VI.  93 

maintained  a  constant  correspondence  for  some  years,  and 
it  had  been  sent  to  her  by  the  King,  with  positive  in- 
structions to  return  it  to  him  by  a  special  messenger,  as 
soon  as  the  Queen  expired.  Lady  Scroope  had  no  op- 
portunity of  delivering  it  to  her  brother  while  he  was  in 
the  Palace  of  Richmond,  but,  waiting  at  the  window  till 
she  saw  him  outside  of  the  gate,  she  threw  it  to  him,  and 
he  well  knew  what  it  intimated.  James,  still  in  bed, 
took  the  ring,  carefully  examined  it,  and  said — "  It  is 
enough;  I  know  by  this  you  are  a  true  messenger." 
Carey  was  entrusted  to  the  charge  of  Alexander,  sixth 
Lord  Home,  who  was  ordered  to  treat  him  hospitably. 
The  King  sent  his  own  surgeons  to  assist  in  curing  a 
wound,  which  he  had  received  by  a  fall  and  a  stroke 
from  his  horse  after  he  left  Norham,  and  when  he  kissed 
the  hand  of  James  at  retiring  for  the  night  he  was  told — 
"  I  know  yon  have  lost  a  near  kinswoman  and  a  loving 
mistress ;  but,  take  here  my  hand,  I  will  be  as  good  a 
master  to  you,  and  will  requite  this  service  with  honour 
and  reward."  A  few  days  afterwards  Carey  was  sworn 
one  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  King's  bed-chamber ;  but, 
notwithstanding  the  above  royal  pledge,  he  himself  ob- 
serves— "  I  only  relied  on  God  and  the  King.  The  ono 
never  left  me :  the  other,  shortly  after  his  coming  to 
London,  deceived  my  expectations,  and  adhered  to  those 
who  sought  my  ruin." 

Three  days  after  Elizabeth's  death,  the  keys  of  Ber- 
wick were  presented  to  James  VI.  in  HoljTood,  and,  on 
the  28th,  John  Bothwell,  Commendator  of  Holyrood,  took 
possession  of  that  town.  On  the  same  day  James  sent  a 
letter  to  the  Lord  Mayor  and  Aldermen  of  London,  dated 
from  Holyroodhouse,  thanking  them  tor  their  activity  in 
proclaiming  him  King.     Ho  now  made  arrangements  for 


94  fflSTORY  OP  HOLYEOOD. 

a  speedy  departure  to  London.  On  Sunday  the  3d  of 
April  he  went  to  St.  Giles's  Church,  and  after  the  sermon, 
which  he  is  said  to  have  taken  in  "  good  part,"  [which  of 
course  intimates  that  the  preacher  had  indulged  in  some 
liberties],  he  rose  and  addressed  the  congregation,  who  are 
said  to  have  been  deeply  affected,  and  to  have  expressed 
their  grief  by  sobs  and  tears.  The  vast  accession  of 
dignity  and  wealth  which  had  fallen  to  the  lot  of  James, 
in  which  all  hoped,  to  some  extent,  to  participate,  seems 
to  have  had  a  strong  effect  upon  the  tender  feelings  of  his 
Presbyterian  auditors.  On  the  5th  of  April  the  King  left 
Holyrood  fbr  England,  attended  by  a  numerous  cavalcade 
of  Scottish  nobility  and  gentry,  and  several  English 
knights.  He  was  followed  on  the  1st  of  June  by  the 
Queen  and  Prince  Charles,  who  on  the  28th  of  May  came 
to  Holyrood  from  Stirling,  and  on  the  30th,  took  leave  of 
the  citizens  in  St.  Giles's  Church,  to  which  the  local  chro- 
nicler says,  her  Majesty  was  "  weiU  convoyit  with  coaches, 
herself  and  the  Prince  in  her  awn  coache,  quhilk  came 
home  with  her  out  of  Denmark,  and  the  English  gentle- 
women in  the  rest  of  the  coaches.  They  heard  ane  guid 
sermone  in  the  kirk,  and  thereafter  raid  hame  to  Halyrud- 
house."* 

The  promise  of  James,  in  St.  Giles's  Church,  to  visit 
Holyrood  every  third  year,  was  not  realized,  and  it  was 
not  till  1617  that  he  was  enabled  to  revisit  his  native 
kingdom. 

His  intention  to  proceed  to  his  ancient  capital  had  been 
officially  announced  to  the  Scottish  Privy  Council  in 
1616,  and  on  the  24th  of  December,  a  "  Direction  "  was 
issued,  ordering  the  Magistrates  to  procure  a  list  of  all 
the  lodgings  and  stables  within  Edinburgh,  the  Canon- 
•  Birrel's  Diary,  pp.  5i),  Wt 


REIGN  OF  JAMES  VI.  95 

gate,  and  suburbs,  to  "  foresee  and  provide  that  there  be 
good  ludgeings  withm  the  saidis  boundis  for  fyve  thou- 
sand men,  and  stables  for  fyve  thousand  horse ; "  and,  if 
accommodation  to  that  extent  could  not  be  obtained, 
commanding  temporary  stables  to  bo  erected.  The 
King  entered  Edinburgh  on  the  16th  of  May,  and  was 
received  with  the  utmost  enthusiasm.  Drummond  of 
Hawthomden  had  composed  a  speech,  which  he  intended 
to  recite  at  the  West  Port ;  but  by  some  means  or  other 
he  was  prevented  from  dehvering  his  laboured  oration. 
The  king  proceeded  to  Holyrood  by  the  Grassmarket, 
the  West  Bow,  the  High  Street,  and  the  Canongate,  after 
hearing  a  sermon  by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode  in  St. 
Giles's  Church,  and  knighting  William  Nisbet  of  Dean, 
the  Provost.  Mr.  John  Hay,  Clerk  Register-Depute,  wel- 
comed the  King  at  the  Palace,  in  an  address  containing 
the  grossest  adulation,  and  James  then  repaired  to  the 
Chapel-Royal  to  hear  another  sermon  preached  by  Arch- 
bishop Spottiswoode.  Returning  to  the  Palace,  the  King 
was  presented,  at  the  gate  of  the  inner  court,  with  a  book 
of  Latin  poems,  which  is  preserved  in  the  Library  of  the 
British  Museum,  beautifully  bound  in  crimson  velvet  and 
superbly  gilt.  The  authors  of  these  laudatory  effusions 
were  the  Professors  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  and 
a  Latin  speech  was  delivered  in  their  name  by  Mr.  Patrick 
Nisbet.  The  Magistrates  afterwards  entertained  the  King 
and  his  retinue  at  a  sumptuous  banquet. 

Having  already  compelled  the  Presbyterians  to  adopt 
the  Episcopal  form  of  church  government,  the  King  was 
resolved  to  assimilate,  as  far  as  lay  in  his  power,  the 
Scottish  Kirk  to  her  English  sister ;  and  the  Church  of 
the  Abbey  was  the  chief  scene  of  his  bold  experiment. 
This  edifice,  since  the  period  of  the  Reformation,  had  been 


96  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

used  as  the  parish  church  of  the  Canongate,  a  district  to 
which,  of  course,  its  ministrations  had  been  partially 
devoted,  while  in  the  hands  of  the  Canons  Regular. 

As  early  as  1559  the  service  of  Common  Prayer,  which 
was  at  first  approved  of  by  the  leaders  of  the  Presbyterian 
party,  was  performed  within  its  walls.  In  that  year, 
Spottiswoode  informs  us*  that  the  officers  of  the  French 
troops,  whom  the  Queen  Regent  had  brought  over,  made 
a  practice  of  going  into  the  reformed  churches,  and  inter- 
rupting the  service  by  laughing  and  talking  "  so  loud  all 
the  time,  as  the  preacher  could  not  be  heard"  .... 
"  the  like  they  did  in  the  Abbey  Church,  forcibly  abolish- 
ing the  service  of  Common  Prayers,  which  there  was 
ordinarily  used."  In  1562  Mr.  John  Craig  appears,  from 
the  records  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  f  to  have  been 
"  minister  at  Halierudehouse,"  and  in  the  same  year  he 
was  conjoined  with  Knox  "in  the  ministry  of  Edin- 
burgh." J  In  1573  we  read  of  the  "  parochiners  of  Haly- 
rudhouse ;"  and  in  the  year  following  we  find  that  Mr. 
Johne  Brand  was  minister,  and  that  there  was  also  an 
Alexander  Thomsoun,  "  Reidare  at  Halyrudhous,"  whose 
salary  was  to  be  paid  by  the  "  Cannogait."§  The  Church 
in  Scotland  for  several  years  exhibited  a  strange  medley 
of  Episcopalian  and  Presbyterian  elements :  the  services 
partaking  principally  of  Presbyterian  forms,  but  the  clergy 
themselves  being  frequently  invested  even  with  Episcopal 
dignity.  Such  appears  to  have  been  the  condition  of  the 
Church  of  Holyrood  in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century.    From  the  end  of  the  year  1615  till  the  com- 

*  Vol.  i.  p.  2S7.    Spottiswoode  Society's  Edit, 
t  The  Booke  of  the  Universall  Kirk,  i.  p.  13. 

X  Idem.  p.  17. 
§  Miscellany  of  Wodrow  S«ciety,  vol.  1.  p.  3CS. 


REIGN  OF   JAMES  VI,  97 

mencement  of  1619,  when  he  died,  William  Coiipar,  Bishop 
of  Galloway,  whom  the  General  Assembly  had  recom- 
mended to  the  King  for  elevation  to  the  Episcopal  ofQco,* 
officiated  as  Dean  of  the  Chapel-Royal. 

Before  the  King's  arrival  in  Edinburgh,  in  1617,  ho 
sent  workmen  from  London  to  repair  the  Chm'ch  of  Holy- 
rood,  and  ornament  its  interior.  Among  other  decorations 
there  was  certain  carved  and  gilt  woodwork,  consisting  of 
figures  of  the  Apostles,  which  was  "  to  be  set  in  the  pewa 
or  stalls ;"  and  an  organ  also  was  ordered  to  be  erected  in 
a  gallery,  above  the  grand  western  entrance.  These 
measures  threatening  to  excite  a  popular  commotion,  a 
letter  of  remonstrance  was  written  by  the  Dean,  and 
signed  by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode  and  several  of  the 
Bishops,  and  the  decorations  objected  to  appear  not  to 
have  been  introduced  into  the  Chapel.  The  organ,  how- 
ever, was  erected  in  a  short  time.  We  learn  the  state  of 
the  Chapel  in  June  1617,  in  a  letter  from  Secretary  Lake, 
written  at  Edinburgh,  to  Sir  Dudley  Carleton : — "  His 
Majesty,"  he  says,  "  hath  set  up  his  chapel  here  in  like 
manner  of  service  as  it  is  in  England,  which  is  well  fre- 
quented by  the  people  of  this  country."  The  Earl  of 
Dunfermline,  writing  in  December  of  the  same  year  to 
King  James,  speaks  of  his  Majesty's  "  Chappell  in  Haly- 
rudhous,  builded  up  of  new,  with  all  ornaments,  and  due 
furnitour  [which]  might  be  required  in  ane  royal  chappell, 
and  maist  magnificklie  deckt  and  set  furth." f  Calderwood 
informs  us  that  "  upon  Saturday,  the  17th  of  May,  the 
EngUsh  service,  singing  of  choristers,  playing  on  organs, 
and  surplices  were  first  heard  and  seen  in  the  Chapel- 
Royal."     Row,  speaking  of  James's  alterations  on  the 

*  Keith,  p.  280. 

t  Melrose  Fapers,  printed  for  Abbotsford  Club,  vol.  i.  p.  298, 

G 


98  HISTORY  OF  EOLYEOOD 

Chapel,  says  "  quherin  wis  a  glorious  altar  sett  up,  with 
two  closed  bybles,  two  unlightened  candles,  and  two 
basins,  without  water,  sett  thereon."*  On  Whitsunday, 
the  8th  of  June,  when  Bishop  Andrewes,  a  learned  English 
prelate,  preached  before  the  Kmgin  the  Chapel-Royal,  the 
communion  was  taken  in  a  kneeling  posture ;  and  this,  it 
is  said  by  some  writers,  was  the  first  time  since  the  Eefor- 
mation  that  it  had  been  so  administered  within  this 
church.  Bishop  Coupar,  the  Dean,  at  first  opposed  the 
innovation,  but  was  at  length  persuaded  to  acquiesce 
in  it. 

It  would  be  out  of  place  to  enumerate  the  progresses 
of  James  during  this  visit  to  Scotland,  with  all  the  ful- 
some adulation  of  the  addresses,  and  the  self-satisfied 
pedantry  of  the  replies.  On  the  11th  of  June  the  King 
went  to  the  Castle  of  Dalkeith,  then  the  seat  of  William, 
seventh  Earl  of  Morton.  The  Parliament  had  met  on  the 
27th  of  May,  in  the  "  Over  Tolbooth,"  and,  from  the  17th 
to  the  28th  of  June,  the  king  attended  daily,  riding 
thither  the  first  day  in  great  state.  He  left  Holyrood  im- 
mediately after  the  rising  of  the  Parliament,  on  the  28th 
of  June,  and  entered  Stirling  on  the  30th,  and  then  re- 
turned to  England  by  Glasgow,  Paisley,  Hamilton,  and 
Dumfries. 

»•*  Row's  History,  vol  i.  p.  113. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


CORONATION  OF  CHAELES  I.  AT  HOLYROOD. 


^^(^N  the  15th  of  Juno  1630,  Sir  James  Balfour,  who  hag 
^'k  »l  ^^^*  behind  him  a  minute  description  of  tho  Coro- 
^^^^  nation  of  Charles  I.  at  Holyrood,  was  solemnly 
inaugurated  Lord  Lyon-King-at-Arms  in  the  Chapel- 
Royal  by  the  Lord  Chancellor  Dupplin,  the  King's  Com- 
missioner; and  the  Lord  Lyon,  after  the  ceremony, 
banqueted  the  Commissioner,  the  Privy  Council,  and  the 
Judges  of  the  Court  of  Session,  in  the  Earl  of  Linlithgow's 
house  adjoining  to  the  Palace.  Conventions  of  the 
Estates  were  held  at  Holyrood  on  the  28th  of  July,  the 
3d  of  November  1630,  the  31st  of  March,  the  20th  of 
April,  the  26th  of  July  1631,  and  the  7th  of  September 
1632,  but  nothing  of  importance  occurs  in  the  history  of 
the  Palace  and  its  Chapel-Royal  till  1633,  when  they 
were  the  scene  of  the  coronation  of  Charles  L,  and  the 
subsequent  festivities.  On  Saturday,  the  15th  of  June, 
the  King,  accompanied  by  Laud,  then  Bishop  of  London, 
White,  Bishop  of  Ely,  and  a  number  of  the  English  nobi- 
lity and  gentry,  entered  Edinburgh  on  horseback,  with 
the  greatest  pomp  and  magnificence,*  and  arrived  at  Holy- 
rood  by  the  same  route  through  the  city  which  his  father 
had  traversed  in  1617.  On  Sunday  he  attended  divine 
*  Aunales  of  Scotland,  vol.  ii.  pp.  196,  7, 8;  vol.  iv.  p.  354. 


100  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

service  in  the  Chapel-Royal,  which  was  performed  by  his 
chaplain,  Bishop  Bellenden  of  Dunblane.  On  Monday 
the  17th,  William,  Earl  of  Angus,  was  created  Marquis  of 
Douglas,  and  George,  Viscount  Dupplin,  was  created  Earl 
of  KinnouU,  in  the  drawing-room  of  the  Palace,  and 
eleven  gentlemen  were  knighted;  after  which  the  lung 
went  privately  in  his  coach  to  the  Castle,  in  which  ho 
passed  the  night,  and  on  the  following  day  the  coronation 
took  place. 

On  the  occasion  of  that  ceremonial,  a  stage,  or  plat- 
form was  erected  in  the  centre  of  the  Chapel-Royal,  four 
*'oet  above  the  floor,  and  twenty-four  feet  in  length  and 
breadth,  and  fastened  to  the  four  centre  pillars  of  the 
church.  This  platform  was  surrounded  by  a  railing,  and 
covered  with  carpets.  In  the  centre,  looking  towards 
the  west,  and  fronting  the  organ  gallery,  was  an  entrance 
to  the  platform  with  three  steps,  and  there  was  the  same 
egress  towards  the  east,  fronting  the  altar  or  communion 
table,  which  was  of  course  under  the  east  window.  On 
this  platform  was  another  elevation  two  feet  in  height, 
which  was  reached  by  two  steps,  richly  decorated,  and 
on  it  the  throne  was  placed.  A  chair,  covered  with 
crimson  velvet,  embroidered  with  gold,  was  placed  on 
the  right,  between  the  platform  and  the  communion 
table,  with  a  footstool  and  cushions,  and  before  this  chair 
was  a  small  table  covered  with  crimson  velvet,  fringed 
and  laced  with  gold,  on  which  lay  a  riclily  ortiamented 
bible. 

The  pulpit,  which  was  covered  with  crimson  velvet, 
was  placed  near  the  communion  table,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Chapel-Royal,  and  on  the  west  of  the  pulpit  were 
placed  two  seats  for  the  Lord  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews 
end  the  other  officiating  prelates.    Immediately  in  front 


COSONAtlON  OF  CHARLES  I.  101 

of  the  communion  table  was  placed,  what  Sir  James  Bal- 
four calls,  a  little  desk,  covered  with  a  rich  embroidery  of 
gold  and  green  silk,  and  before  it  were  cushions  on  which 
the  King  knelt  during  divine  service. 

On  the  mpming  of  the  18th  a  splendid  procession  of 
the  Nobility,  Officers  of  State,  and  public  functionaries, 
preceded  the  King  from  the  Castle  to  Holyrood.  Six 
trumpeters  first  issued  from  the  Castle  gate,  two  and  two, 
clothed  in  scarlet  and  gold  lace ;  and  then  came  the  Barons 
in  scarlet  robes,  followed  by  the  Bishops  in  their  robes. 
Next  were  the  Viscounts  and  Earls,  followed  by  Dr.  Pa- 
trick Lindsay,  Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  unattended.  The 
Great  Officers  of  State  succeeded,  who  were  followed  by 
six  pursuivants,  two  and  two ;  York  Herald  of  England, 
alone ;  then  six  heralds,  two  and  two,  preceding  Norroy, 
King  of  Arms  of  England.  The  Master  of  Kequesta 
came  next,  attended  by  the  celebrated  Dr.  John  Guthry, 
Bishop  of  Moray,  who  acted  as  Almoner  for  that  day. 
Sir  James  Balfour,  the  Lord  Lyon-King-at- Arms,  followed, 
supported  by  two  gentlemen  ushers,  after  whom  came  in 
order  the  Earl  of  Eghnton  bearing  the  spurs,  the  Earl  of 
Buchan  bearing  the  sword,  and  the  Earl  of  Rothes  bear- 
ing the  sceptre.  The  crown  was  carried  by  the  Earl  of 
Arran,  supported  on  his  right  hand  by  the  Earl  of  Errol, 
Lord  High  Constable,  and  on  his  left  by  the  Duke  of 
Lennox  and  the  Earl  Marisehal.  All  these  noblemen 
were  on  horseback,  the  Earls,  Viscounts,  and  Lyon-King- 
at- Arms,  says  Sir  James  Balfour,  having  "  ther  crounes 
and  capes  carried  by  gentlemen  on  the  left  syde  of  ther 
horses,  hard  by  the  stirupe."  Then  appeared  the  King, 
dressed  in  crimson  velvet,  his  train  carried  by  several 
noblemen  and  gentlemen.  After  the  King  came  the 
Marquis  of  Hamilton,  Master  of  his  Majesty's  Horse  j 


102  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

next  the  Earl  of  Suffolk,  Captain  of  the  Gentlemen  Pen- 
sioners ;  and  last  of  all  the  Earl  of  Holland,  Captain  of 
the  Yeomen  of  the  Guard,  followed  by  the  yeomen. 

The  pavement  of  the  great  court  of  the  Palace  was 
covered  with  blue  cloth,  on  which  the  King  walked  till  ha 
reached  the  grand  western,  door  of  the  Chapel-Royal.  A 
canopy  of  crimson  velvet,  laced  and  fringed  with  gold, 
was  carried  over  the  King,  by  the  eldest  sons  of  six  Earls 
and  a  Viscount,  supported  by  six  Barons.  At  the  door 
of  the  Chapel-Royal  the  King  was  received  by  Dr.  John 
Spottiswoode,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews,  Lord  Primate 
of  Scotland.  When  he  entered  the  sacred  edifice,  the 
King  knelt  down  in  a  devotional  manner  for  a  short  space, 
and,  then  rising,  a  procession  was  formed  towards  the 
elevated  platform  in  the  middle  of  the  church,  composed 
of  the  Archbishop,  the  Dean  of  the  Chapel-Royal,  several 
bishops,  preceded  by  the  choristers  of  the  Royal  Chapel, 
and  followed  by  the  King,  supported  by  the  Nobility  and 
great  Officers  of  State.  His  Majesty  was  then  conducted 
to  a  chair  placed  against  the  western  pillar  of  the  church 
on  the  north  side,  where  he  sat  down,  and  was  addressed 
in  a  short  speech  by  the  Rev.  James  Hannay,  preacher  of 
the  Chapel-Royal.  The  King  then  rose,  and  moved  for- 
ward along  the  church,  the  choir  receiving  him  with  tho 
anthem  on  the  organ — "Behold, 0  Lord,  our  Protector, 
and  look  upon  the  face  of  thine  Anointed ;  because  one 
day  in  thy  court  is  better  than  a  thousand."  The  King 
ascended  the  elevated  platform  in  the  middle  of  the 
church,  and  seated  himself  in  the  royal  chair. 

The  crown,  sceptre,  sword,  and  spurs  were  delivered 
by  their  respective  noble  bearers  to  the  chief  gentleman 
usher,  who  laid  these  insignia  of  royalty  on  a  small  table, 
covered  with  green  velvet,  laced  and  fringed  with  gold, 


CORONATION  OF  CHARLES  I.  103 

which  was  placed  on  the  south  side  of  the  communion 
table.  Sir  James  Balfour,  as  Lord  Lyon,  then  appeared 
carrying  a  gold  ampulla,  or  vessel  contaming  the  anoint- 
ing oil,  which  he  had  received  from  the  Dean  of  the 
Chapel-Royal  at  the  great  western  door.  This  he  deli- 
vered to  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  who  deposited  it  on 
the  communion  table. 

The  King,  after  reclining  a  short  tune  in  the  chair  on 
the  platform,  now  left  it,  and  moved  to  the  chair  of  state 
opposite  the  pulpit.  The  ceremony  commenced  with  a 
sermon,  preached  by  Dr.  David  Lindsay,  Bishop  of 
Brechin,  from  the  First  Book  of  Kings,  i.  39.  Wlien 
this  was  concluded  the  King  returned  to  his  chair  on  the 
platform.  The  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews,  accompanied 
by  the  Lord  High  Constable,  the  Earl  Marischal,  and  the 
Lord  Lyon,  who  went  before  the  Primate,  addressed  the 
people  from  each  comer  of  the  platform : — "  Sirs,  I  pre- 
sent unto  you  King  Charles,  the  rightful  heir  of  the  crown 
and  dignity  of  this  realm.  This  day  is  by  the  peers  ol 
the  kingdom  appointed  for  the  coronation  of  his  Majesty. 
Are  you  willing  to  acknowledge  him  as  your  sovereign, 
and  to  be  dutiful  and  obedient  subjects?"  The  people 
responded  with  loud  acclamations — "God  save  King 
Charles  1"  During  the  Archbishop's  announcement  to 
the  assemblage,  the  King  stood,  and  turned  himself  in 
the  direction  of  the  Primate  at  every  comer.  The 
choir  then  commenced  the  anthem, — "  Let  thy  hand  be 
Btren^-ihened,"  and  the  80th  Psalm,  concluding  as  usual 
with  the  "  Gloria  PatrV  When  the  anthem  was  sung, 
the  Ajchbishop  returned  to  the  communion  table. 

The  King  now  approached  the  communion  table, 
supported  by  Dr.  Adam  Bellenden,  Bishop  of  Dunblane 
and  Dean  of  the  Chapel -Royal,  on  the  right,  and  bj 


104  HISTORY  OS?  nOLYKOOD. 

Bishop  Guthry  of  Moray  on  the  left,  where  ho  made  his 
oblation,  which  was  received  in  a  gold  cup  by  the 
Primate.  His  Majesty  then  knelt  at  the  desk  already 
mentioned,  during  which  time  the  Archbishop  said  a 
prayer.  He  then  sat  down  in  his  chair,  and  the  Arch- 
bishop approached  him  from  the  communion  table,  and 
asked  if  he  were  ready  to  take  the  oaths  appointed  to  be 
put  on  such  occasions.  An  answer  was  returned  in  the 
affirmative,  and  the  Archbishop  proceeded — "Sir,  will 
you  promise  to  serve  Almighty  God  to  the  uttermost  of 
your  power,  as  He  hath  required  in  His  most  holy  Word, 
and  according  to  the  same  Word,  maintain  the  true 
reUgion  of  Christ  now  preached  and  possessed  within  this 
realm,  aboHshing  and  withstanding  whatsoever  is  contrary 
to  the  same ;  and  will  you  diligently  oppose  all  heretics 
and  enemies  of  the  true  worship  of  God  who  shall  bo  so 
convicted  by  the  true  Church  of  God  ?  " 

The  King  answered—"  I  promise  faithfully  so  to  do." 
The  Archbishop  again  demanded — "Sir,  will  you 
promise  to  rule  the  people  subject  to  you  according  to 
the  laws  and  constitution  of  this  realm,  causing  justice 
and  equity  to  be  administered  impartially ;  and  to  pro- 
cure peace  to  the  uttermost  of  your  power  to  the  Church 
of  God,  and  amongst  all  Christian  people  ?  " 

The  King  answered — "  I  grant  and  promise  so  to  do." 
The  Archbishop  next  demanded—"  Sir,  will  you  like- 
wise promise  to  preserve  and  keep  inviolate  the  privi- 
leges, rights,  and  revenues  of  the  crown  of  Scotland,  and 
not  to  transfer  and  alienate  them  in  any  way  ?  " 
The  King  answered — "  I  promise  so  to  do." 
Tlie  Archbishop  finally  said—"  We  also  beseech  you 
to  grant  and  preserve  unto  us  of  the  clergy,  and  to  the 
churches  committed  to  our  charge,  all  canonical  privi- 


CORONATION  OF  CHARLEB  L  105 

Iege3,  and  that  you  will  defend  and  protect  us,  as  every 
Christian  and  pious  King  ought  in  his  kingdom  to  defend 
his  bishops  and  the  churches  under  their  government." 

The  Kng  answered — "  With  a  willing  heart  I  grant 
the  same,  and  promise  to  maintain  you  all  and  indi- 
vidually, with  all  the  churches  committed  to  your  charge, 
in  your  whole  rights  and  privileges,  according  to  law  and 
justice." 

His  Majesty,  rising  Irom  his  chair,  now  approached 
the  communion  table,  and  laying  his  hand  on  the  Bible, 
he  said  with  an  audible  voice — "  All  the  things  which  I 
have  now  promised  I  shall  observe  and  keep,  so  help  me 
God,  and  by  the  contents  of  this  book."  He  returned  to 
the  chair  of  state,  and  the  hymn  Veni  Creator  was  sung 
by  the  choir.  The  King  then  knelt,  while  the  Arch- 
bishop said  a  prayer  appropriate  for  the  occasion;  and 
the  Litany  was  read  and  chanted  by  Bishop  Guthry  of 
Moray  and  Dr.  John  Maxwell,  Bishop  of  Eoss,  afterwards 
Archbishop  of  Tuam  in  Ireland.  The  service  of  the 
Church  of  England  was  used  throughout,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  some  prayers  adapted  to  the  occasion,  which  were 
composed  by  the  Archbishop. 

After  a  short  repose,  during  which  the  choir  sung 
another  anthem,  the  King  again  approached  the  com- 
munion table,  standing  with  his  back  towards  it,  where 
he  was  prepared  for  the  anointing  by  the  Duke  of  Len- 
nox. He  then  sat  down  in  his  chair  of  state  near  the 
pulpit,  and  the  ceremony  of  anointing  him  was  per- 
formed by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  during  which  there 
was  a  canopy  supported  over  the  King's  head.  The 
choir  here  commenced  the  anthem — "  Zadok  the  priest 
and  Nathan  the  prophet  anointed  King  Solomon,  and  all 
tl\o  people  rejoiced,  and  said,  God  save  the  King  for 


106  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

ever."  Tho  Archbishop  first  anointed  the  palm  of  the 
King's  hands  in  the  name  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  repeating 
suitable  passages  from  Scripture.  Another  prayer  for 
the  divine  blessing  on  the  King  was  here  introduced, 
and  the  Archbishop  then  proceeded  with  tho  rest  of  the 
ceremonial.  "When  it  was  concluded,  the  Lord  Cham- 
berlain adjusted  the  King's  dress,  and  the  Archbishop 
pronounced  a  fervid  benediction. 

The  special  act  of  coronation  now  commenced,  and 
was  conducted  by  Archbishop  Spottiswoode,  assisted  by 
Bishop  Bellenden  of  Dunblane,  Bishop  Alexander  Lind- 
say of  Dunkeld,  Bishop  Lindsay  of  Brechin,  Bishop 
Guthry  of  Moray,  and  Dr.  Maxwell,  Bishop-elect  of  Ross, 
in  their  episcopal  robes.  After  several  preliminaries  and 
devotional  exercises,  the  Archbishop  crowned  the  l^ng, 
the  oath  of  allegiance  was  administered,  and  the  usual 
homage  was  rendered  by  the  nobility.  The  sword  and 
sceptre  were  placed  in  the  King's  hands,  with  an  appro- 
priate address  and  invocation,  and  the  archbishop  and 
the  other  bishops  were  kissed  by  the  King,  who  then  as- 
cended the  platform,  where  he  was  solemnly  enthroned. 
The  Earl  of  Kinnoull,  Lord  Chancellor,  now  proclaimed 
at  each  corner  of  the  platform  the  royal  pardon  under 
the  Great  Seal  to  all  who  required  it,  and  the  Arch- 
bishops and  Bishops  knelt  and  did  homage,  repeating  the 
words  after  the  Earl  Marischal,  and  kissing  the  King's  left 
cheek.  At  the  conclusion,  the  King  entered  the  Palace 
bearing  the  crown,  sceptre,  and  sword,  amid  the  sound  of 
trumpets  and  the  discharge  of  the  Castle  artillery. 

On  the  day  of  the  coronation  one  gentleman  was 
knighted  at  Holyrood,  on  the  20th,  another,  on  the  22d, 
five,  in  the  private  gallery  of  the  Palace,  and  two  on  the 
23d.    On  the  12th  of  July  four  others  were  knighted  r.t 


CORONATION  OP  CHARLES  I.  107 

Holyrood.  Numbers  of  the  Barona  were  created  Earla 
on  the  occasion.  Those  so  elevated  at  Holyrood  wero 
the  Earls  of  Kinnoull,  Elgm,  Southesk,  Traquair,  Ancrum, 
Wemyss,  and  Dalhousie ;  Lord  Gordon  of  Lochinvar  was 
created  Viscount  Kenmure,  Lord  Douglas  of  Spott  was 
created  Viscount  Belhaven,  and  eight  gentlemen  wero 
created  Barons. 

On  the  18th,  19th,  or  20th  of  June,  the  Parliament 
met  in  the  Tolbooth.  The  ceremonial  of  the  "Riding" 
from  Holyrood  was  a  grand  procession,  in  which  the  King 
appeared,  and  on  the  19th  a  sermon  was  preached  by 
Archbishop  Spottiswoode.  On  the  24th,  which  was  St. 
John  the  Baptist's  Day,  the  King  attended  divine  service 
in  the  Chapel-Royal,  preceded  by  the  nobility.  On  this 
occasion  the  ceremony  of  touching,  to  cure  the  disease 
known  as  the  King's  evil,  was  performed  on  about  a  hun- 
dred persons.  Charles  again  attended  divine  service  in 
the  Chapel-Royal  on  the  25th,  when  Dr.  William  Forbes 
preached.  The  Liturgy  of  the  Church  of  England  was 
read,  and  Bishop  Bellenden  of  Dunblane  appeared  in  hia 
episcopal  robes,  the  other  bishops  present  wearing  gowns. 
On  the  28th  all  the  Acts  of  the  Parliament,  many  of  them 
most  important,  were  ratified ;  and  on  Sunday  the  30th 
Archbishop  Laud  preached  before  the  King  in  the  Chapel- 
Royal,  which  "  scarce  any  Englishman,"  says  Clarendon, 
"  had  done  before  him."  On  the  1st  of  July  the  King 
proceeded  from  Holyrood  on  a  progress  to  Linlithgow, 
Stirling,  Dunfcrmhne,  Falkland,  and  Perth,  returning  to 
the  Palace  on  the  10th,  and  narrowly  escaping  death  in  a 
fearful  storm,  when  crossing  the  Frith  of  Forth  from 
Burntisland  to  Leith — a  boat,  with  some  of  his  plate  and 
money,  and  eight  of  his  servants,  being  lost.  On  the  ISth 
of  July  the  King  left  Holyrood  for  England. 


CHAPTEK  XIII. 


HOLYROOD  UP  TO  THE  REVOLUTION  OF  1688. 

f^JJ\gY  a  charter  dated  29th  September  1633,  Charles 
«$%!  I.  erected  Edinburgh  into  a  bishopric.  Tho 
^^^  parish  of  Holyroodhouse,  and  a  great  portion  of 
the  old  Abbey  lands,  were  conveyed  to  the  new  see ;  and 
the  minister  of  Holjrroodhouso  was  created  one  of  the 
Prebendaries  of  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Giles. 

After  tho  King's  visit  to  Scotland,  those  ecclesiastical 
measures,  connected  with  the  introduction  of  the  Book  of 
Canons  and  the  Scottish  Liturgy,  were  concerted,  which 
caused  the  great  rebellion  in  the  lowland  counties.  The 
mode  of  conducting  divine  service  in  the  Chapel-Royal, 
and  the  conduct  of  Bishop  Bellenden  the  dean,  were  the 
subjects  of  special  correspondence.  On  the  8th  of  Oc- 
tober 1633  the  King  wrote  to  Bishop  Bellenden,  ordaining 
that  divine  service  should  be  performed  twice  daily  ac- 
cording to  the  form  of  the  English  Liturgy,  till  "  some 
course  be  taken  for  making  one  that  may  fit  the  custom 
and  constitution  of  that  Church"  [of  Scotland] — ^that  the 
communion  should  be  received  kneeling,  and  administered 
on  the  first  Sunday  of  every  month — ^that  the  Dean 
ehould  preach  in  his  "  whites"  on  Sundays  and  the  Festi- 
vals, and  be  as  seldom  absent  as  possible ;  and  that  the 
Privy  Council,  Officers  of  State,  Judges,  and  members  of 


THE  CIVIL  WAR.  109 

tLo  College  of  Justice,  should  communicate  in  the  Chapel- 
Royal  once  every  year,  or  be  reported  to  the  King  by  tho 
Dean  in  case  of  refusal.  This  was  followed  by  a  letter  to 
the  Lords  of  Session,  dated  at  Greenwich,  13th  May  1634. 
Bishop  Bellcnden,  however,  was  refractory,  or  perceived 
that  it  was  impossible  to  fulfil  the  King's  orders,  and  soon 
fell  into  disgrace  with  the  Court.  The  correspondence 
with  him  on  the  subject  was  chiefly  carried  on  by  Arch- 
bishop Laud,  and  became  at  last  conciliatory  in  its  terms 
in  reference  to  those  whom  the  English  Primate  describes 
as  having  "  disobeyed  his  Majesty's  commands  in  receiv- 
ing the  communion  in  the  Chapel-Royal." 

In  1635  Bishop  Bellenden  was  translated  to  Aberdeen, 
and  was  succeeded  by  Dr.  James  Wedderburn,  Preben- 
dary of  Wells.  When  the  Scottish  Liturgy  was  announced 
in  1636,  the  Chapel-Royal  was  among  the  first  of  the 
churches  suppHed  with  it,  for  which  Robert  Bryson,  book- 
Bcller,  and  Evan  Tyler,  printer,  granted  a  receipt  on  the 
15th  of  April  for  the  sum  of  £144  Scots. 

In  May  1638,  James,  tliird  Marquis  of  Hamilton, 
created  in  1643  Duke  of  Hamilton,  whose  fate  was  as 
disastrous  as  that  of  his  sovereign,  was  appointed  Lord 
High  Commissioner  to  Scotland  by  Charles  I.,  to  allay  the 
religious  and  political  distractions  excited  by  the  attempt 
to  introduce  tiie  Scottish  Liturgy.  The  nomination  of  the 
Marquis  was  by  no  means  popular  among  the  Covenanters, 
though  some  have  doubted  his  smcerity,  and  accused  him 
of  secretly  favouring  the  movement.  His  mother.  Lady 
Anne  Cunningham,  daughter  of  James,  seventh  Earl  of 
Glencairn,  was  a  most  zealous  adherent  of  the  insurgents; 
and  in  1639,  when  he  arrived  in  the  Frith  of  Forth  with 
a  force  to  overawe  them,  she  appeared  on  horseback  at 
the  head  of  a  body  of  mounted  troopers  on  the  shore,  drew 


110  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

a  pistol  from  her  saddle-bow,  and  declared  that  she  would 
be  the  first  to  shoot  her  son,  if  he  landed  and  attacked  his 
countrymen. 

The  Marquis  reached  Berwick  on  the  3d  of  June,  and 
he  soon  arrived  in  Dalkeith  Castle,  whither  he  summoned 
the  Privy  Council.  A  deputation  from  the  Corporation 
of  Edinburgh  had  an  audience,  and  entreated  him  to  reside 
in  Holyroodhouse,  which  would  be  more  convenient  for 
the  public.  The  Marquis  at  first  refused  to  enter  EdiU' 
burgh,  because  the  city  was  in  the  hands  of  open  resistors 
of  the  King's  authority ;  but  he  at  length  consented,  on 
condition  that  the  peaceable  conduct  of  the  multitudes 
then  in  the  capital  was  guaranteed,  and  the  guards  at  the 
gates  and  the  Castle  withdrawn.  To  this  they  agreed, 
and  Friday  the  9th  of  June  was  appointed  for  his  arrival 
in  Holyrood,  when  the  Covenanters  resolved  to  display 
their  great  numerical  force.  For  some  reasons  of  his  own, 
instead  of  proceeding  direct  from  Dalkeith  to  Edinburgh, 
the  Marquis  diverged  by  Inveresk  to  Musselburgh,  four 
miles  from  the  former  town,  and  six  miles  from  Edinburgh. 
From  Musselburgh  he  and  his  cortege  rode  along  the  shore, 
passing  over  the  ground  on  which  the  town  of  Portobello 
is  now  built,  and  the  heath  called  the  Figgate  Whins, 
to  the  common  of  Leith  Links.  When  approaching  the 
Links  he  was  met  by  thirty  of  the  Covenanting  nobility ; 
and  the  gentry  of  the  same  party  marshalled  themselves 
in  a  line  along  the  seaside,  extending  to  nearly  two  miles. 
Passing  through  this  array,  and  attended  by  upwards  of 
20,000  men  and  women,  he  perceived  on  an  eminence, 
near  the  east  end  of  the  Links,  several  hundreds  of  their 
preachers  dressed  in  their  black  Geneva  cloaks.  It  was 
intended  that  he  should  listen  to  an  address  by  Mr.  Wil- 
liam Livingstone,  then  a  preacher  at  Lanark,  and  brother 


THE  CIVIL  WAR.  Ill 

of  the  noted  Mr.  John  Livingstone;  but  the  Marquis 
avoided  this,  by  advice  of  Dr.  Walter  Balcanqual,  Dean 
of  Rochester,  who  attended  him  as  chaplain,  and  who 
whispered  to  him  that  Livingstone,  whom  he  described  as 
"  one  of  the  most  seditious  of  the  whole  pack,"  would 
deliver  a  very  offensive  invective.  The  Marquis,  there- 
fore, merely  bowed  to  the  minister,  observing  that  "  ha- 
rangues on  the  field  were  for  princes,  and  above  hia 
place,"  and  what  he  had  to  say  he  should  hear  gladly  in 
private.  The  crowd  on  the  Links  and  the  road  to  Edin- 
burgh was  now  immense,  and  followed  the  Marquis  to  the 
Watergate  of  the  Canongate,  close  to  Holyroodhouse, 
where  he  was  received  by  the  Magistrates  of  the  city. 
Under  such  circumstances,  and  greatly  afifected,  the  Com- 
missioner entered  the  Palace. 

The  Marquis  had  resolved  to  attend  divine  service  in 
the  Chapel-Royal,  where  Dr.  Balcanqual  was  to  officiate, 
who  was  particularly  obnoxious  to  the  Covenanters ;  and 
to  prevent  this,  or  to  shew  their  animosity,  some  of  them 
secretly  entered  the  edifice,  nailed  up  the  organ,  and  an- 
nounced to  the  Marquis,  that  if  the  "  English  Service 
Book  "  was  again  used,  the  person  who  did  so  would  rim 
the  hazard  of  his  life.  The  residence  of  the  Marquis  at 
Holyrood  failed  to  influence  the  Covenanters,  and  the 
Civil  War  ensued,  which  was  preluded  by  the  Glasgow 
General  Assembly. 

The  next  occupant  of  Holjrrood,  during  this  unhappy 
contest,  was  the  King  himself,  who  arrived  in  Edin- 
burgh accompanied  by  his  nephew  the  Elector  Palatine, 
on  Saturday  the  14th  of  August  1641.  His  reception 
was  very  different  from  that  of  1633.  The  prerogatives 
of  the  Crown  were  now  usurped  by  the  Estates,  and 
Charles  was  compelled  to  enter  the  Palace,  under  the 


112  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

banner  of  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant.  No  public 
procession  greeted  his  arrival,  no  demonstrations  of  joy 
were  exhibited,  and  at  six  in  the  evening  he  approached 
Holyrood  rather  as  a  private  individual  than  as  the 
sovereign  of  Scotland.  On  the  following  day  the  King 
heard  a  sermon  preached  by  Alexander  Henderson  in  the 
Chapel-Royal,  and  was  obliged  to  conform  himself  to  the 
service  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  On  Monday  it  was 
debated  before  the  King  at  a  meeting  of  the  Privy  Council, 
whether  or  not  the  Parliament  ought  to  "  ride  "  anew ; 
and  it  was  arranged  that  the  King,  after  a  sermon  in  the 
Chapel-Royal,  should  proceed  to  the  Parliament  in  his 
coach,  alight  at  the  Lady's  Steps  on  the  north-east  corner 
of  St.  Giles's  Church,  where  he  was  to  be  met  by  the  Re- 
gaUa,  the  Marquis  of  Hamilton  carrying  the  crown,  the 
Earl  of  Argyll  the  sceptre,  and  the  Earl  of  Sutherland  the 
sword,  and  thence  walk  to  the  Parliament  House,  which 
had  been  erected  by  the  citizens  in  1636.  The  King  ad- 
dressed the  Parliament  in  a  conciHatory  speech,  and  re- 
turned to  the  Palace.  On  Sunday  the  29th,  Mr.  Andrew 
Cant  from  Aberdeen  preached  before  the  King  in  the 
Chapel-Royal  in  the  afternoon,  and  on  the  following 
Sunday  afternoon  Mr.  Andrew  Fairfoull  from  North  Leith. 
As  the  proceedings  of  Parliament  appeared  interminable, 
and  the  affairs  of  Lreland  were  alarming,  the  King,  on 
Monday  the  15th,  announced  that  the  first  thing  he  would 
do  was  to  sign  the  warrant  for  the  "  Riding  of  the  Parlia- 
ment." This  concluding  pageant  was  held  on  Wednesday 
the  17th  November.  A  sermon  by  Alexander  Hender- 
son, on  whom  had  been  conferred  the  revenues  of  the 
Chapel-Royal,  closed  the  proceedings,  though  the  Parlia- 
ment virtually  continued  its  sittings  till  June  1644.  The 
King  gave  a  supper  to  the  nobility  in  the  great  hall  of 


THE  CIVIL  WAR.  113 

the  Palace,  when  he  solemnly  took  leave  of  them,  and 
left  Edinburgh  on  the  following  day  for  England,  where 
he  was  soon  involved  in  the  fearful  struggle  of  the  great 
Civil  War. 

Scotland  was  now  under  the  rule  of  a  Parliamentary 
Committee  of  the  Estates,  controlled  by  the  Covenanters ; 
and  the  war  which  ensued  left  Holyrood  unnoticed  and 
deserted.  After  the  execution  of  Charles  I.,  the  Cove- 
nanters induced  Charles  II.  to  appear  in  Scotland,  pro- 
claimed him  King,  and  brought  him  to  Edinburgh ;  but 
the  English  army  under  Cromwell  prevented  him  from 
residing  in  Holyrood.  After  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  on  the 
3d  of  September  1650,  Cromwell  quartered  a  part  of  his 
forces  in  the  Palace.  While  thus  occupied,  the  edifice 
was,  on  the  13th  of  November  that  year,  either  by  ac- 
cident or  design,  set  on  fire,  and  the  greater  part  of  it 
consumed.  On  the  7th  of  February  1652,  the  royal  arms 
were  removed  from  Holyrood  and  other  public  buildings 
in  Edinburgh,  and  destroyed  by  order  of  the  Commis- 
sioners of  the  English  Parliament,  then  sitting  at  Dal- 
keith. Cromwell,  ordered  the  Palace  to  be  restored  in 
1658,  and  certain  buildings  were  erected,  which,  however, 
were  afterwards  removed. 

The  Restoration  now  took  place,  and  on  the  31st  of 
December  1660,  John,  Earl  of  Middleton,  the  Lord  High 
Commissioner  to  the  Scottish  Parliament,  arrived  at 
Holyrood,  where  he  resided  during  the  meeting  of  the 
Estates,  which  assembled  on  the  1st  of  January  1661. 
A  few  days  afterwards,  the  mangled  remains  of  the  great 
Marquis  of  Montrose  were  disinterred  from  the  Borough- 
muir,  his  head  removed  from  the  Tolbooth,  his  limbs 
brought  from  the  towns  to  which  they  had  been  sent,  and 
the  whole  deposited  in  a  sumptuous  coffin,  which  lay  in 
a 


I  H  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

Btate  in  Holyrood,  preparatory  to  a  splendid  funeral  in 
St.  Giles's  Church.  On  the  23d  of  April  1661,  the  coro- 
nation of  Charles  II.  in  London  was  celebrated  by  a  ban- 
quet, given  by  the  Earl  of  Middleton  in  the  Palace. 

On  Wednesday  the  7th  of  May  1662,  George  Haly- 
burton,  Bishop  of  Dunkeld,  David  Strachan,  Bishop  of 
Brechin,  John  Paterson  of  Ross,  Murdoch  Mackenzie  of 
Moray,  Patrick  Forbes  of  Caithness,  Robert  Wallace  of 
the  Isles,  and  David  Fletcher  of  Argyll,  were  consecrated 
in  the  Chapel-Royal  by  Archbishops  Sharpe  of  St.  An- 
drews and  Fairfoull  of  Glasgow,  and  Bishop  Hamilton  of 
Galloway.  A  great  number  of  the  nobility,  gentry,  and 
others,  were  then  in  Edinburgh  to  attend  the  approach- 
ing meeting  of  the  Parhament,  and  the  Lord  Provost, 
Magistrates,  and  Town-Council  attended  in  their  robes. 
The  two  Archbishops  and  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  en- 
tered the  church  from  the  Palace,  wearing,  says  the  local 
diarist,  their  "  white  surplices  under  their  black  gowns, 
except  their  sleeves,  which  were  all  of  them  white,  or 
delicate  cambric  and  lawn."  The  sermon  was  preached 
by  Mr.  James  Gordon  of  Drumblade  in  Aberdeenshire. 
The  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews  sat  "  covered  with  his 
episcopal  cap,  or  four-nooked  bonnet ;  all  that  was  said 
by  the  Bishop  was  read  off  a  book,  and  their  prayers 
likewise  were  read."* 

Another  grand  riding  of  the  Parliament  from  Holy- 
rood  occurred  on  the  9th  of  October,  when  the  Earl  of 
Rothes,  afterwards  created  a  Duke,  was  Lord  High  Com- 
missioner. A  fortnight  previous  Sir  Charles  Erskine  of 
Cambo  had  been  inaugurated  Lord  Lyon-King-at-Arms 
by  the  Earl  of  Rothes,  in  the  Palace.  The  Duke  of 
Rothes  died  at  Plolyrood  on  the  27th  of  July  1681,  and 
*  Nicoll'3  Diary,  pp.  3G5-0. 


THE  CIVIL  WAW.  115 

Lis  body  was  conveyed  to  St.  Giles's  Church  on  the  23d 
of  August,  from  which  it  was  brought  in  state  to  tho 
Chapel-Royal,  attended  by  numbers  of  the  nobility  and 
gentry.  On  the  following  day  the  body  was  conveyed  to 
Leith,  and  shipped  for  Burntisland,  to  be  interred  in  the 
family  vault  at  Leslie. 

After  the  Restoration  it  was  determined  to  erect  a 
new  Palace,  and  Sir  William  Bruce  of  Kinross,  an  archi- 
tect of  considerable  celebrity  in  his  day,  designed  tho 
present  quadrangular  edifice,  which  he  connected  with 
the  original  north-west  tower.  In  1672  the  Lord  Com- 
missioner and  Lords  of  his  Majesty's  Privy  Council, 
considering  that  it  was  "necessary  and  suteing  to  his 
Majesty's  [Charles  the  Second's  I]  pious  and  religious  dis- 
position, that  some  convenient  place  be  designed  and  sett 
apairt,  wherem  his  Majesty  and  those  of  his  family  at  hia 
Palace  of  Halirudhous  may  worship  God,"  set  apart 
and  appropriate  the  said  church  for  the  use  of  the  Royal 
Family ;  and  declare  the  same  to  be  his  Majesty's  Chapel- 
Royal  in  all  time  coming,  discharging  the  Magistrates  of 
Edinburgh  or  the  Canongate  from  usmg  it  as  a  parish 
church,  and  that,  notwithstanding  "any  former  tollera- 
tion  or  possession  they  may  pretend  in  and  to  the  said 
church." 

The  pari^ioners  were  enjoined  to  attend  Lady 
Tester's  Church  till  the  existing  parish  church  of  tho 
Canongate  was  erected.  In  1649  Thomas  Moodie,  mer- 
chant, bequeathed  20,000  merks  for  building  a  church  in 
or  near  the  Grassmarket.  This  sum  had  been  allowed  to 
accumulate,  and,  in  1681,  the  Parhament  placed  it  at  tho 
disposal  of  Charles  11.  The  whole  was  ordered  to  bo 
appropriated  according  to  Moodie's  intentions ;  and,  from 
this  fund,  the  present  parish  church  of  the  Canongate  was 


116  HISTORY  OP  HOLYKOOD. 

erected  after  the  Revolution.  A  number  of  years  pro< 
viously— namely,  in  1609,  North  Leith  had  been  disjoined 
from  the  parish  of  Holyroodhouse. 

In  1679  the  Duke  of  York,  afterwards  James  IL, 
visited  Edinburgh,  and  occupied  the  Palace.  While  at 
Holyrood,  the  Duke  became  unpopular  by  his  encourage- 
ment of  tho  drama  and  other  amusements  to  which  the 
citizens  were  generally  opposed.  The  Duke  again  took 
up  his  abode  in  the  Palace  in  1680  as  a  kind  of  exile  from 
the  English  court,  on  account  of  his  religious  opinions, 
accompanied  by  his  Duchess,  and  his  daughter,  the  Prin- 
cess Anne,  afterwards  Queen.  The  Duke's  Walk,  the 
general  designation  of  one  of  the  royal  parks  at  the  base 
of  Arthur's  Seat  east  of  the  Palace,  was  so  called  because 
it  was  the  ordinary  promenade  of  the  Duke  of  York  and 
his  family. 

The  large  room  originally  designed  for  a  Council 
Chamber,  and  now  called  the  Picture  Gallery,  in  which  the 
election  of  the  sixteen  Representative  Peers  of  Scotland  is 
held,  was  fitted  up  by  the  Duke  of  York  as  his  private 
chapel,  in  conformity  with  the  ritual  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church — a  purpose  to  which  it  was  again  appropriated  up- 
wards of  a  century  afterwards,  during  the  first  residence  at 
Holyrood  of  Charles  X.,  when  Count  D'Artois.  On  the 
27th  of  July  1681,  the  Duke  of  York  inaugurated  Sir 
Alexander  Erskine  of  Cambo,  Bart.,  as  Lord  Lyon,  in  tho 
Palace,  and  on  this  occasion  the  usual  sermon  preached 
by  the  Dean  in  the  Chapel-Royal,  before  the  King  or  his 
Commissioner  and  the  nobility,  was  omitted.  On  the  25th 
of  September  1686,  the  Duke  of  York,  then  James  II., 
issued  his  warrant  to  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  tho 
Treasury  to  continue  this  room  as  a  private  chapel ;  and 
on  the  19th  of  May  1687  he  signed  another  warrant 


THE  CIVIL  WAR.  117 

authorising  the  payment  of  £100  sterling  anntially  to  the 
persons  employed  for  the  service  of  the  music. 

At  last  he  directed  that  the  Chapel-Royal  should  bo 
fitted  up  exclusively  for  the  Roman  Catholic  ritual,  and 
as  the  chapel  of  the  Knights  of  the  Thistle.  This  was  on 
the  3d  of  December  1687 ;  and  the  King  intimated  that 
he  expected  the  church  to  be  repaired  and  altered  accord- 
ing to  his  directions  before  the  1st  of  May  1688,  under 
pain  of  his  severe  displeasure. 

The  "Most  Ancient  Order  of  the  Thistle,"  whose 
knights  were  thus  to  be  installed  in  the  Chapel-Royal,  is 
undoubtedly  one  of  considerable  antiquity.  It,  like  the 
old  Abbey  on  whose  church  it  intruded,  is  said  to  have 
had  a  "  miraculous  foundation."  Achaius,  who,  it  seems, 
was  the  sixty-fifth  King  of  Scotland,  when  about  to  join 
battle  with  Athelstane,  an  English  King,  in  the  year  819, 
m  the  neighbourhood  of  Haddington,  beheld  a  bright  cross 
in  the  heavens,  like  that  on  which  St.  Andrew  was  said 
to  have  suSered  martjn-dom,  and  heard  the  voice  of  the 
Apostle  announcing  that  the  Scots  would  be  victorious 
in  the  conflict.  The  issue  of  the  fight  was,  of  course, 
such  as  the  Saint  had  predicted,  and  Achaius,  repairing 
forthwith  to  the  well-known  church  dedicated  to  him  in 
Fife,  vowed,  in  the  name  of  himself  and  his  royal  suc- 
cessors, that  the  cross  of  St.  Andrew  should  be  blazoned 
on  the  flag  of  Scotland  for  ever.  Such  is  one  legend ; 
and  there  is  another,  only  a  little  less  improbable,  which 
tells  us  that  the  order  derived  its  origin  from  certain  inter- 
changes of  friendship  between  the  same  Achaius  and  the 
great  Emperor  Charlemagne. 

Whoever  was  the  founder  of  the  order,  it  would 
appear  that  James  V.  was  its  restorer,  about  the  year 
1540.    In  his  time   it  seems   this  chivalric  society  was 


118  mSTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

intended  to  consist  of  the  sovereign  and  twelve  knights ; 
and  one  historian  conjectures  that  the  companions,  origi- 
nally, were  all  of  kingly  rank.  It  would  appear  that 
James  had  been  incited  to  this  act,  by  having  been  him- 
self invested  with  the  Order  of  the  Garter  by  his  uncle, 
Henry  VIII.,  that  of  the  golden  Fleece  by  the  Emperor, 
and  that  of  St.  Michael  by  the  King  of  France ;  and  ho 
caused  the  badges  of  these  foreign  orders,  along  with  that 
of  St.  Andrew,  to  be  sculptured  over  the  Palace  Gates  of 
Linhthgow.  The  collar  of  the  order  was  of  gold,  with 
thistles  and  sprigs  of  rue  linked  together,  "the  two 
ancient  emblems  of  the  Scots  and  Picts,"  and  from  it 
was  suspended  the  badge,  on  which  was  portrayed  St, 
Andrew  with  his  cross.  On  the  star  and  jewel  was  en- 
graved the  famous  motto  "Nemo  me  impune  laccssit." 
James,  however,  was  soon  carried  to  the  vault  of  his 
fathers  in  the  Abbey  Church  of  Holjnrood,  and  his  knightly 
institution  was  forgotten. 

James  Vn.  anxious  to  conciliate  the  leading  nobility 
of  Scotland  by  every  means  in  his  power,  revived  the 
Order  in  1687,  and  created  the  follo\ving  eight  knights : — 

George  Gordon,  Duke  of  Gordon. 
John  Murray,  Marquis  of  Atholl. 
James  Hamilton,  Earl  of  Arran,  afterwards  Duko 

of  Hamilton.    Killed  in  a  duel  in  1712. 
Alexander  Stuart,  Earl  of  Moray. 
James  Drummond,  Earl  of  Perth.    Attainted. 
Kenneth  Mackenzie,  Earl  of  Seaforth.    Attainted. 
George  Douglas,  Earl  of  Dumbarton. 
John  Drummond,  Earl  of  Melford.    Attainted.* 

•  Queen  Anne  re-established  the  order  in  1703.  George  rV., 
In  1827,  increased  the  number  of  knights  to  sixteen. 


I'fiE  CIVIL  WAR.  119 

The  Chapcl-Eoyal  was  entirely  repaired,  and  deco- 
rated with  a  splendour  suitable  to  its  new  destination. 
At  the  east  end,  under  the  great  window,  a  throne  was 
erected  for  the  sovereign,  and  near  it  were  ranged  richly 
carved  stalls,  over  which  were  suspended  the  banners 
and  armorial  bearings  of  the  several  knights. 

These  costly  preparations  were  nearly  completed, 
when  the  events  of  the  Revolution  deprived  James  of  his 
throne.  Much  excitement  had  been  caused  in  Edinburgh 
by  the  King's  evident  determination  to  overthrow  the 
Protestant  religion.  The  attendance  of  the  Officers  of 
State  at  mass  caused  a  tumult;  and  the  Countess  of 
Perth,  and  other  persons  of  distinction,  were  insulted 
while  returning  from  church.  When  the  landing  of  the 
Prince  of  Orange  was  announced  in  Edinburgh,  the  Earl 
of  Perth  retired  from  the  city,  and  the  first  strong  intima- 
tion of  public  feeling  was  the  assembling  of  a  numerous 
mob  on  the  10th  of  December,  for  the  purpose  of  burning 
down  the  Chapel-Royal,  and  destroying  the  King's  private 
chapel  in  the  Palace,  which  was  still  kept  open  for  the 
celebration  of  the  Romish  service.  The  rage  of  the  mul- 
titude against  Holyrood  and  its  chapels  was  exacerbated 
by  the  facts,  that  a  College  of  Jesuits  was  known  to  be 
lodged  in  the  Chancellor's  apartments,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Abbey  Porch,  for  purposes  of  proselytism;  and, 
that  a  printing-press,  from  which  issued  polemical  tracts 
in  defence  of  Catholicism,  existed  within  the  walls.  At 
this  time  Ho.yrood  was  garrisoned  by  a  party  of  about 
sixty  regular  troops,  under  the  command  of  a  Captain 
Wallace,  a  person  of  considerable  personal  courage. 
When  the  multitude  advanced  to  their  work  of  destruc- 
tion, Wallace  ordered  his  men  to  fire  upon  them  from  the 
windows  of  the  Palace,  and  a  few  of  the  assailants  were 


120  HISTORY    OP   HOLYEOOD. 

killed  and  wounded.  The  alarm  spread  througli  the 
city — the  better  classes  were  moved  by  the  intelligence— 
a  quorum  of  the  Privy  Council  issued  orders  to  Wallace 
to  surrender  the  Palace,  but  these  he  refused  to  obey ; 
and  the  Magistrates  ordered  the  city  guard  and  the 
trained  bands  to  march  to  Holyrood.  Wallace  drew  out 
his  men  in  front  of  the  Palace  gate,  and  fired  upon  the 
assailants ;  but  the  commandant  of  the  city  guard,  enter- 
ing by  a  back  way  into  the  Palace,  attacked  him  in  the 
rear,  and  compelled  him  to  surrender.  The  populace,  in- 
furiated more  than  ever  by  the  fall  of  several  of  their 
companions,  now  rushed  into  the  Palace,  plundered, 
burned,  and  destroyed  the  Chapel-Royal,  and  the  King's 
Chapel,  till  nothing  remained  but  the  bare  walls;  and, 
violating  even  the  sepulchre  of  the  Kings,  wrenched 
open  the  leaden  coffins,  and  scattered  the  bones  of  James 
the  Fifth  and  Magdalene  of  France,  with  those  of  other 
Royal  personages,  over  the  paved  aisles  of  the  Abbey 
Church. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


THE  FABRIC  OF  THE  PALACE  AND  ITS 
RECENT  HISTORY. 

[E  have  already  stated,  on  the  authority  of  For- 
i<m^\  dun  and  the  chronicles  of  Melrose  and  HoljTood, 
that  the  Abbey  was  founded  in  the  year  1128. 
Wliat  may  have  been  the  precise  period  of  the  settlement 
of  the  Canons  in  the  valley  below  Arthur's  seat  is,  how- 
ever, a  question  of  very  considerable  difficulty.  It  has 
been  conjectured  by  Father  Hay  that  they  did  not  remove 
thither  tiU  the  reign  of  William  the  Lion  ;*  and  he  is  un- 
doubtedly correct  in  this  supposition;  for  in  one  of 
Malcolm  the  Fourth's  charters,  f  which  cannot  be  of 
earher  date  than  1164,  the  year  before  William's  acces- 
sion, the  Canons  are  still  designated  as  being  "of  the 
castle  of  Edinburgh;"  and  in  a  charter  by  William  de  Vi- 
pont,  in  which  a  confirmation  of  King  William's  is  specially 
mentioned,  they  are  likewise  so  designed,  if  We  have 
stated  in  the  first  chapter  that  it  is  generally  believed 
that,  in  the  meanwhile,  they  occupied  some  building  on 
the  summit  of  the  castle  rock.  We,  however,  venture, 
with  diffidence,  to  conjecture  that  the  first  Abbey  of 
Holyrood  stood  at  the  base  of  the  fortress,  and  that  its 

*  Father  Hay's  MS.  Notes  quoted  in  Lib.  Cart.  Sanct.  Cruc. 
p  xxii. 

t  Lib.  Cart.  Sanct.  Cruc.  p.  18.  J  Ibid,  p.  28. 


122  raSTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

ruins  were  discernible  centuries  after  its  pious  occupants 
nad  left  it.* 

Without  dwelling,  however,  on  this  point,  we  now 
proceed  to  speak  of  the  small  portion  that  remains  of  the 
great  structure  in  which  they  were  eventually  placed.  In 
the  first  instance,  we  must  remark,  that,  of  the  entire 
range  of  conventual  buildings  devoted  to  the  domestic  uses 
of  the  Canons,  not  a  vestige  has  been  left.  "We  have  evi- 
dence, however,  on  the  wall  of  the  south  aisle  of  the  nave 
of  the  chfurch,  that  it  and  the  west  wall  of  the  adjoining 
transept,  formed,  as  was  not  uncommon  in  monastic  edi- 
fices, two  sides  of  the  Great  Cloister,  leaving  the  others 
to  the  chapterhouse,  refectory,  and  other  principal  apart- 
ments of  the  establishment.  Doorways  led  into  the 
Cloister  from  the  eastern  and  western  extremities  of  the 
south  aisle,  to  allow  continuous  egress  and  ingress  to 
solemn  processions  issuing  from  the  church ;  and  one  of 
these  entrances,  as  will  be  afterwards  seen,  is  still  in  ex- 
cellent preservation.  The  existing  Royal  Palace  un- 
doubtedly covers  to  a  considerable  extent  the  site  of  tlic 
domestic  buildings  of  the  Abbey ;  but  a  large  portion  of 
these  extended  further  toward  the  east  than  any  part 
of  the  present  great  quadrangle. 

The  choir  and  transepts  of  the  Abbey  Church  have 
also  disappeared,  and  the  nave,  as  it  now  stands,  ruined 
and  roofless,  is  itself  almost  the  sole  record  of  that  which 
is  gone.  We  are  told,  however,  by  various  authorities, 
that  the  sacred  edifice,  when  entire,  was  an  august  and 
magnificent  building.  We  are  also  informed  that  it  was 
divided  longitudinally  into  three  portions — the  "  Sacra- 
rinm,"  elevated  some  steps  above  the  level  of  the  rest  of 
the  edifice,  in  the  centre  of  which  stood  the  high  altar  [sacra 
•  Vide  Note  A. 


THE  FABRIC  OF  THE  PALACfi.  123 

mensa] — the  Choir,  and  the  Nave.  A  screen  or  grating 
(clathri)  divided  the  nave  from  the  rest  of  the  church, 
and  in  the  side  aisles  were  numerous  small  chapels.  In 
the  nave  a  large  ring  or  crown,  elegantly  worked  in  brass, 
was  suspended  from  the  roof  by  a  massy  chain,  and  filled 
with  tapers  on  the  greater  festivals ;  and  before  the  altar 
stood  a  tree  of  brass,  of  elaborate  workmanship,  adorned 
with  precious  gems,  the  lustre  of  which  was  brilliantly 
displayed  by  numerous  lamps  pendent  from  the  branches. 
In  Scotland,  as  in  all  European  countries,  during 
the  middle  ages,  Kings  and  Princes  very  frequently 
Bojourned  within  monastic  walls.  When  travelling  over 
the  country,  these  building  were  almost  the  only  ones 
of  sufficient  extent  to  accommodate  them  and  their 
retinues.  The  strong  walls,  and  sacred  character  of 
these  great  edifices  afforded  also  a  certain  amount  of 
protection  to  the  royal  person.  Doubtless  the  conven- 
tual kitchen  and  cellars,  too,  though  not  stored  with 
such  refined  luxuries  as  in  richer  lands  became  the  bane 
of  the  religious  orders,  would  yet  be  sufficiently  pro- 
vided with  the  means  of  good  cheer  to  cause  a  King  of 
Scots,  who  had  been  riding  from  dawn,  up  hill,  through 
river,  and  over  muirland,  to  hasten  briskly  forward, 
about  meal-time, 

*'  Unto  the  saintly  convent,  with  the  good  monks  to  dine, 
And  quaflf  to  organ  music  the  pleasant  cloister  wine." 

The  Prince,  at  his  departure,  was  expected,  probably, 
to  present  an  oblation  to  the  patron  saint  of  the  house, 
to  compensate  for  the  great  outlay  caused  by  his  recep- 
tion.    Accordingly  we  find  Jocelin  of  Brakeland  com- 


124  HISTORY  Of  HOLYROOD. 

plaining  of  King  John  of  England's  shabbiness  in  this  re- 
spect, he  having  availed  himself  of  the  hospitality  of  the 
monks  of  St.  Edmund's  Bury,  and  given  nothing  "  save 
thirteen  easterling  pence,  which  he  offered  at  his  mass 
on  the  day  of  his  departure,"  while  Jocelin  and  his  worthy 
brethren  were  confidently  expecting  "  some  great  matter." 
The  Abbey  of  Holyrood  was  very  frequently  thus 
honoured,  with  the  presence  of  its  Kings.  At  last,  in 
later  times,  when  Edinburgh  became  the  acknowledged 
capital,  James  HE.  resided  almost  constantly  within  its 
walls ;  and  to  his  chivalrous  but  ill-fated  son,  James  IV., 
is  to  be  ascribed  the  foundation  of  the  first  Palace  of 
Holyrood.  Several  years  of  the  Lord  High  Treasurer's 
accounts  during  his  reign  have  unfortunately  been  lost, 
but,  in  those  which  remain,  we  have  distinct  evidence 
that  a  building  of  importance  was  in  progress  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  both  before  and  after  his  marriage  with 
Margaret  of  England.  We  read  in  them  in  1502-3  of  the 
construction  of  a  "new  hall,"  "the  gallery,  and  boss 
windoes,"  and  "  the  turatis  of  the  for-yet."  This  last  was 
probably  the  vaulted  gateway,  which,  till  the  middle  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  formed  the  entrance  from  the  Canon- 
gate  to  the  great  area  in  front  of  the  Palace.  The  keeper 
had  formerly  his  residence  over  this  porch,  but  when  it 
was  removed  in  1755,  a  suite  of  apartments  was  assigned 
him  in  the  edifice  itself.  The  remains  of  the  arches 
of  the  porch  are  still  distinctly  visible  on  the  wall  of  the 
small  building  used  as  the  Abbey  court-room  and  gaol. 
In  1504  and  1505  there  are  entries  of  payments  made  for 
"aiding  and  topping  of  the  chimmais,"  and  for  "com- 
pleting of  the  toure  in  Halyrudhous,"  and  in  the  former  of 
these  years  a  precept  is  "made  to  Maister  Leonardo 
Logy,"  granting  him  £40  yearly  for  his  diligence  and 


THE  FABRIC  OF  THE  PALACE.         125 

labour  "  in  the  bigging  of  the  Palace  beside  the  Abbey 
of  the  Haly  Cross."  Mention  is  also  made  in  these  ac- 
counts of  "  the  Queen's  great  chamber,"  of  the  "  King's 
Oratory,"  and  of  the  "Queen's  Oratory,"  the  latter  of 
which  was  glazed  with  a  hundred  feet  of  common  glass, 
and  with  seven  pieces  of  glass  painted  with  chaplets.* 

During  the  minority  of  James  V.,  the  Regent,  Duke  of 
Albany,  resided  at  Holyrood,  and  appears  to  have  made 
additions  to  the  Palace  buildings.  There  are  notices  of 
certain  sums  expended  by  his  orders  in  the  construction 
of  "  ane  tumpek  in  the  PaHs."  An  annalist,t  cited  in  the 
preface  to  the  "  Liber  Cartarum  Sancte  Crucis,"  speaks 
of  the  Duke  of  Albany  committing  the  "  Lord  Houme"  in 
1515  to  the  ^^auld  touer  of  Holyrudhouss,  which  wes 
foundit  by  the  said  Ducke."  From  its  name  this  would 
appear  to  be  the  tower  built  by  James  IV.,  to  which, 
perhaps,  Albany  had  made  some  additions. 

James  the  Fifth  did  not  pass  a  great  portion  of  his  time 
at  Holyrood,  but  various  sums  of  money  were  paid  during 
his  reign  for  repairs  on  the  Palace,  and  for  "  the  new 
werk."  This  latter  was,  in  all  probability,  the  great 
towers  which  form  the  north-west  quarter  of  the  existing 
Palace,  and  on  which  the  legend  "  Jac.  V.  rex.,  Scotorum, " 
was  legible  till  a  few  years  ago.  The  architect  is  stated 
to  have  been  that  Sir  James  Hamilton  of  Finnart,  who 

♦  When  speaking  of  the  treasurer's  accounts  in  James  the 
Fourth's  time,  we  may  mention  that  there  are  a  few  entries  in 
them  which  illustrate  the  King's  smgoXax  penchant  for  attempt- 
ing surgical  operations.  In  1491  and  succeeding  years,  are 
entries  of  "  18s.  to  Dominico  [a  minstrel]  to  gif  the  King  leve  to 
lat  him  blud ;"  "  13s.  giflSn  to  the  blind  wif  that  hed  her  eyne 
shome ; "  and  "  13s.  to  ane  fallow,  becaus  the  King  pullit  furth  his 
tuith." 

t  Maijoreybank's  Annals. 


126  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

built  or  repaired  the  Palaces  of  Falkland  and  Linlithgow, 
and  the  castles  of  Edinburgh,  Stirling,  and  Rothesay,  and 
who  was  afterwards  beheaded  on  a  charge  of  fabricating 
an  engine  for  shooting  the  King  from  the  tower  of  Lin- 
lithgow.* James  the  Fifth's  Palace  is  stated  by  a  con- 
temporary to  have  been  very  large  and  magnificent 
[amplissimmn  et  superbissimumj.f  We  have  an  outline 
of  it  on  a  very  small  scale  in  the  sketch  prepared  for  the 
Earl  of  Hertford's  expedition,  already  alluded  to.  It 
appears  to  have  consisted  of  several  courts,  but  it  is  im- 
possible to  distinguish  which  belonged  to  the  Palace,  and 
which  to  the  Abbey.  The  north-western  towers  are  very 
conspicuous,  rising  like  a  keep  above  the  other  buildings ; 
and  the  place  or  outer  court  is  also  distinctly  visible  witl» 
its  "Foirwerk"  or  gateway  towards  the  Canongate.  In 
the  rear  of  the  north-west  towers,  a  low  building  runs  in 
a  straight  line  up  to  the  base  of  the  south-west  tower  of 
the  Abbey  Church,  with  its  eastern  extremity  resting  ap- 
parently on  the  west  wall  of  that  fabric. 

In  1543  the  Earl  of  Hertford's  army  "brent  the  abbey 
called  Holyrode  House,  and  the  pallice  adjonynge  to  the 
same ;"  but  their  destruction  could  not  have  been  com- 
plete, for  in  the  English  invasion  of  1547  Sir  "Walter 
Bonham  and  Edward  Chamberlayne  found  the  monks 
gone ;  "  but  the  church,  and  much  part  of  the  house,"  well 
covered  with  lead.  The  lead  they  stripped  oflf,  "  and  took 
down  two  bells,  and,  according  to  the  statute,  did  sum- 
what  hearby  disgrace  the  hous." 

By  these  grievous  assaults,  the  fabric  of  the  church 
was  so  much  shaken  as  to  be  in  an  insecure  state ;  but 

*  Memorie  of  the  Somervills,  vol.  i.  pp.  315-316. 
t  Edinburgi  Eeg.  Scot,  urbis  descriptic    Bannatyne  MisceJ. 
■■.  p.  137, 


THE  FABRIC  OP  THE  PALACE.        127 

Etill  we  find  it  in  a  few  years  occupied  as  r  place  of 
worship.  Of  the  Palace  of  the  Jameses,  all  that  survived 
was  probably  the  north-western  towers,  whose  massy 
strength  had  resisted  the  action  of  the  flames,  and  which 
the  English  had  not  thought  of  blowing  up  with  gun- 
powder. Not  only  must  any  internal  mjuries  sustained 
by  this  portion  of  the  building  have  been  speedily 
repaired,  but  a  large  and  somewhat  imposing  edifice  must 
have  been  reared  on  the  site  of  the  demoHshed  buildings  ; 
for,  in  1561,  Brantome,  who  came  over  from  France  with 
Queen  Mary,  and  who  speaks  in  anything  but  flattering 
terms  of  what  he  saw  in  Scotland,  says,  "  it  is  a  handsome 
building,  and  not  like  anything  else  in  the  country."  No 
material  alteration  was  made  on  the  edifice  till  the  great 
Civil  War — and,  very  luckily,  we  have  a  drawing  of  the 
front  elevation,  taken  before  that  period,  by  James  Gor- 
don, parson  of  Rothiemay.  From  it,  therefore,  and  from 
his  map  of  Edinburgh,  engraved  in  Holland  by  Do  Witt, 
we  can  form  a  correct  idea  of  the  Palace  of  Holyrood,  as 
it  existed  in  the  interesting  times  of  Queen  Mary.  From 
the  north-western  tower  a  range  of  building  of  no  great 
height  extended  towards  the  south,  with  four  turret-like  pro- 
jections, filled  with  windows  glazed  in  small  diamond-shaped 
compartments,  as  was  also  the  main  wall,  the  two  projec- 
tions at  the  extremities  being  three-sided,  and  those  in  the 
centre,  between  which  was  the  great  entrance,  being  of  a 
semicircular  form.  These,  and  the  north-western  towers, 
were  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  small  spires  and  royal 
crowns ;  and  a  row  of  these  imperial  emblems,  probably 
cast  in  iron,  ran  along  the  ridge  of  the  sloping  roof,  with 
the  intention,  probably,  of  giving  an  appearance  of  greater 
elevation  to  the  building.  This  portion  of  the  edifice,  wa 
think,  must  have  had  rather  a  flimsy  and  fantastic  look, 


128  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

when  compared  with  the  sturdy  solidity  of  the  north- 
western tower. 

The  Palace  comprehended  five  courts  or  enclosures. 
The  largest  of  these  was  the  place  to  the  west  of  the  prin- 
cipal front,  which  formed  one  of  its  sides,  the  boundaries 
of  the  three  others  being  walls,  those  on  the  north  and 
south  dividing  it  from  two  royal  gardens,  and  that  on  tho 
east  from  the  houses  of  the  Canongate.  At  the  north- 
west comer  was  the  vaulted  and  turreted  porch,  to  which 
we  have  already  alluded  as  being  built  in  the  reign  of 
James  IV.,  and  removed,  when  in  a  dismantled  condition, 
about  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  The  next  court  to 
the  east  of  this  was  surrounded  by  buildings,  and  appa- 
rently occupied  the  space  on  which  the  inner  part  of  the 
present  quadrangle  stands,  its  northern  and  eastern  sides 
advancing  up  to  the  west  and  south  walls  of  the  south- 
western tower  of  the  Abbey  Church,  tho  lower  part  of 
which,  in  fact,  appears  in  De  Witt's  map  to  have  been 
built  into  this  portion  of  the  Palace.  On  the  south  there 
were  two  other  courts  also  surrounded  by  buildings,  and 
the  fifth  court  lay  toward  the  east,  immediately  to  the 
south  of  the  Abbey  Church. 

We  have  already  stated  that,  from  the  termination  of 
Mary's  reign  to  the  period  of  the  Commonwealth,  no  ma- 
terial change  took  place  in  the  structure  of  the  Palace. 
Before  James  the  Sixth's  visit  to  Scotland,  however,  in 
1617,  we  learn  from  a  "  Warrant  for  repairing  his  Ma- 
jestie's  Houssis,"  issued  by  the  Scottish  Privy  Council, 
that  certain  renovations,  of  no  great  importance,  were  ef- 
fected. A  commission  was  granted  to  the  King's  Master 
of  Works  to  take  down  the  roof  of  the  lodging  above  the 
detached  outer  porch,  called  the  Chancellor's  Lodging^ 
and  as  much  of  the  stone  wall  as  was  necessary,  and  to 


THE  FABRIC  OP  THE  PALACE.        129 

rebuild  the  same  in  a  substantial  manner.  The  apart- 
ment within  the  Palace  known  as  the  Steward's  Chalmer 
was  also  to  be  taken  down,  and  not  to  be  rebuilt,  on  ac- 
count of  the  "  deformitie  and  disproportioun  that  it  has 
with  the  rest  of  the  building  thair ;"  the  apartment  called 
Sir  Roger  AshtorCs  Chalmer  was  to  be  taken  down  and 
rebuilt  in  a  "  convenient  forme,"  as  was  also  Chancellor 
Maitland's  Kitchen,  at  the  end  of  the  Duke's  Transe ;  and 
the  "too-falls"  and  "  dykes,"  in  an  enclosure  at  the  back 
ealled  the  Bahe-home  Yard,  were  to  be  removed,  so  that 
"of  the  yard  ane  perfyte  cloise  may  be  made." 

John  Taylor,  the  Water  Poet,  was  in  Scotland  in 
1618,  and,  in  his  "Pennylesse  Pilgrimage,"  he  relates  the 
impressions  which  the  country  had  left  on  his  mind.  He 
says  that,  when  in  Edinburgh,  he  went  down  the  "  streete 
which  they  call  the  Kenny-hate,"  and  then,  he  says,  "  I 
was  at  his  Majesty's  Palace,  a  stately  and  princely  seate, 
wherein  I  saw  a  sumptuous  chapell,  most  richly  adorned 
with  all  appurtenances  belonging  to  so  sacred  a  place,  or 
so  Royall  an  owner.  In  the  inner  court  I  saw  the  King's 
Armes  cunningly  carved  in  stone,  and  fixed  over  a  doore 
aloft  on  the  wall,  the  red  Lyon  being  the  crest,  over  which 
was  written  this  inscripton  in  Latme : — Nobis  ncBC  invicla 
miserunt  106  Proavi.  I  enquired  what  the  English  of  it 
was?  It  was  told  me  as  followeth,  which  I  thought 
worthy  to  be  recorded : — 106  forefathers  have  left  this  to 
us  unconqueredy 

Charles  I.,  notwithstanding  the  adulatory  inscription 
over  the  west  door  of  the  church,  appears  only  to  have 
caused  some  trivial  repairs  to  be  made  upon  that  build- 
ing; but  it  is  highly  probable  that,  before  his  Scottish 
coronation,  he  had  expended  considerable  sums  in  adorn- 
ing the  interior  of  the  Palace ;  and  the  ceiling  of  Queen 
I 


130  HISTORY  OP  HOLYROOD. 

Mary's  bed-room  still  bears  on  its  ornamented  roof  his 
initials  and  those  of  his  son—"  C.  R."  "  C.  P."  [Carolus 
Rex — Carolus  Princeps.] 

The  next  event  of  importance  in  the  history  of  the 
fabric  of  the  Palace  occurred  on  the  13th  of  November 
1650,  when  it  was  set  on  fire  by  accident  or  design,  while 
occupied  by  the  soldiery  of  the  Commonwealth,  and  de- 
stroyed, "except  a  lytill,"  as  a  contemporary  diarist 
says.  This  "lytill"  comprehended  undoubtedly  the 
great  north-western  tower,  which  has  survived  so  many 
disasters.  The  portion  of  the  Palace  which  remained 
standing  must  have  been  soon  in  a  habitable  state, 
for  it  appears  to  have  been  used  as  a  place  of  con- 
finement in  1655,  as  is  evident  from  a  petition  presented 
by  certain  prisoners  immured  therein,  to  the  clergy  of 
the  Presbytery  of  St.  Andrews,  praying  them  to  use 
their  good  offices  in  obtaining  their  release.*  In  1658 
Cromwell  ordered  the  edifice  to  be  restored,  but  no  por- 
tion of  the  Protector's  erection  now  remains.  It  would 
appear  from  the  statement  of  Nicoll  the  diarist,  that  the 
portion  of  the  Palace  rebuilt  by  the  Protector  and  his  son 
Richard,  consisted  only  of  the  western  front  up  to  the 
north-west  tower.  He  says,  in  September  1659,  that 
the  "  hole  foir-warTc  ....  quhilk  was  brint  in  Novem- 
ber 1650,  was  compleitlie  biggit  up." 

In  1671  King  Charles  11.  determined  to  rebuild  the 
palace  of  his  forefathers,  in  accordance  with  a  plan  sub- 
mitted for  his  consideration  by  his  "  surveyor,"  Sir  Wil- 
liam Bruce  of  Kinross,  a  distinguished  Scottish  architect ; 
and  before  1679  the  present  Royal  House  of  Edinburgh 
was  completed.  Charles  bestowed  great  attention  on  the 
designs  of  his  new  Palace,  and  suggested  a  few  alterations, 
some  of  which  were  happOy  not  adopted. 
♦  MS»  recoyd.  cited  ip  the  Bannatyne  ^iscell^ny,  voL  ii.  p.  40i. 


TOE  lAiiRIC   OF  THE  PALACE.  131 

From  tlie  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  till  1745,  Holy- 
rood  was  entirely  neglected  and  abandoned  to  a  solitude 
disturbed  only  by  the  occasional  meetings  of  the  Scottish 
nobility,  for  the  election  of  the  Representative  Peers,  In 
SejDtember  of  that  year,  however,  these  deserted  halls 
once  more  resounded  to  music  and  the  dance,  when  the 
beauty,  rank,  and  chivalry  of  the  Jacobite  party  thronged 
in  passionate  devotion  round  the  young  and  luckless 
Prince  Charles — scenes  of  gaiety  brief,  and,  in  the  circum- 
stances, almost  as  startling  as  laughter  in  the  chamber  of 
death — to  be  followed  by  the  bloody  horrors  of  Culloden, 
the  scaffolds  of  Tower  Hill,  exile,  forfeiture,  want,  the 
extinction  of  kith  and  kin,  and  many  a  blazmg  roof-tree, 
and  desolated  valley,  over  the  broad  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land. Pruice  Charles  arrived  at  Holyrood  on  the  17th  of 
September,  and  his  army  encamped  on  the  south-east  side 
of  Arthur's  Seat,  above  the  village  of  Wester  Dudding- 
stone.  On  the  day  after  the  battle  of  Prestonpans,  the 
Prince  returned  to  the  Palace,  flushed  with  victory ;  and 
a  succession  of  festivities  ensued  till  the  31st  of  October, 
when  the  Jacobite  forces  marched  for  the  English  fron- 
tier. After  the  battle  of  Culloden,  in  the  spring  of 
1746,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  resided  in  the  Palace  for 
a  few  days,  and  is  said  to  have  slept  in  the  same 
bed  which  the  unfortunate  Pretender  had  previously  oc- 
cupied. 

From  this  period  till  the  end  of  the  18th  century,  no 
person  of  exalted  rank  resided  within  the  walls  of  Holy- 
rood.  In  1795,  the  exiled  representative  of  that  royal 
family  of  France,  which  had  offered  an  asylum  to  the  last 
king  of  the  Stuart  dynasty,  himself  sought  refuge  in  the 
Palace  of  the  Stuarts,and  found  a  St  Germains  in  Scot- 
land. The  apartments  on  the  east  side  of  the  quadrangle 
were  prepared  for  the  reception  of  Charles  X.,  then  known 


132 


HISTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 


as  the  Count  D' Artois ;  and  he  continued  to  reside  there 
till  1799,  occasionally  holding  levees,  which  were  attended 
by  the  higher  classes  of  the  citizens.  The  Duchess  de 
Grammont,  a  relation  of  the  Bourbon  family,  dwelt  there 
till  May  1803,  when  she  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  royal 
vault.  ]Ier  remains,  however,  were  subsequently  removed 
to  France,  after  the  accession  of  Charles  X.  to  the  throne. 

In  1 822  George  IV.  visited  Edinburgh,  and  the  whole 
Scottish  nation,  of  every  class  and  party,  throwing  for  the 
moment  all  the  acerbities  of  political  feeHng  to  the  winds, 
rushed  with  enthusiastic  loyalty  to  behold  a  King  once 
more  throned  in  the  halls  of  their  ancient  Palace.  After 
the  King's  visit;,  the  sum  of  £24,000  was  granted  for 
external  and  internal  repairs  on  the  Palace;  and  the  ad- 
jacent grounds  were  surrounded  by  a  very  elegant  iron 
railing.  In  1831  Charles  X.,  again  a  fugitive,  resumed 
his  old  apartments  in  Holyrood,  accompanied  by  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  D'Angouleme,  the  Duchess  de  Berri, 
her  son  the  Duke  of  Bourdeaux,  and  a  numerous 
suite. 

In  September  1842,  Queen  Victoria  and  her  Consort 
visited  Edinburgh,  but  did  not  upon  that  occasion  reside 
within  the  Palace.  In  August  1850,  however,  her 
Majesty  once  more  visited  her  "  own  romantic  town," 
and  dwelt  within  her  ancient  Palace.  On  the  morning 
after  her  arrival,  the  Queen,  accompanied  by  Prince 
Albert  and  the  Royal  children,  ascended  Arthur's  Seat, 
and  beheld,  for  the  first  time,  the  matchless  panoramic 
prospect  which  its  summit  affords.  Since  that  period 
her  Majesty  has  annually  honoured  Holyrood  with  her 
presence  on  her  way  to  and  from  her  Highland  resideiico 
at  Balmoral 


CHAPTER  XV. 


&s 


THE  ROYAL  APARTMENTS. 

HE  principal  entrance  to  Her  INIajesty's  apart- 
ments is  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the 
quadrangle,  but  we  shall  describe  them  in 
their  order,  beginning  at  the  door  leading  from  the  east 
end  of  the  Picture  Gallery. 

The  first  is  that  now  known  as  the  Queen's  Break- 
FAST-EOOM.  This  apartment  measures  twenty-four  feet 
by  nineteen  feet  six  inches ;  the  height  being  sixteen  feet 
eight  inches.  The  ceiling  is  coved  and  deeply  coffered, 
having  a  circular  panel  in  the  centre,  enriched  with 
wreath-like  mouldings,  formed  of  lime  and  fashioned  by 
the  hand.  In  the  spandrils  are  drums,  axes,  and  other 
warlike  emblems,  wrought  in  the  same  manner.  The 
walls  are  covered  partly  with  oak  panelling,  and  partly 
with  a  green  and  gold  flock  paper.  The  chimney-piece 
and  the  panel  above  it  are  fine  bold  specimens  of  carv- 
ing in  oak,  the  ornaments  being  of  the  same  warlike 
character  as  those  of  the  roof.  In  this  panel  a  painting, 
representing  the  Finding  of  Moses,  has  been  inserted 
The  furniture  of  the  room  is  modem. 

We  next  enter  the  Vestibule,  a  small  square  apart- 
ment, with  walls  covered  with  oak  panelling,  and  having  a 
richly  ornamented  roof,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  dome, 
painted  of  an  azure  colour  and  studded  with  silver  stars. 

We  next  come  to  Prince  Albert's  Dressing-room, 
which  measures  twenty-six  feet  five  inches  by  twenty -four 


134  HISTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

feel,  the  height  being  (sixteen  feet  eight  inches.  The 
ceiling  of  this  room  is  also  fine.  In  the  centre  is  a  rich 
oval  panel,  containing  a  picture  representing  the  Expul- 
sion of  Vulcan  from  heaven.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
green  and  gold  flock  paper.  The  doors,  door-pieces,  and 
mantel-piece  of  this  room  are  elaborately  carved,  and  in 
the  panel  above  the  last  is  a  picture  of  the  Infant  Hercules 
strangling  the  serpents. 

The  next  apartment  is  the  Queen's  Bed-room,  a 
handsome  room  hung  with  tapestry,  representing  the 
destruction  of  Niobe's  Children  by  Apollo  and  Diana,  and 
other  subjects.  The  ceiling  has  in  the  centre  an  octagonal 
panel,  deeply  coffered  and  enriched  with  mouldings.  In 
the  panel  above  the  mantel-piece,  is  a  picture  of  Venus 
rising  from  the  sea. 

We  next  enter  the  Queen's  Drawing-room,  a  very 
fine  apartment,  thirty-eight  feet  six  inches  long  by  twenty- 
nine  feet  eight  inches  broad.  The  height  is  sixteen  feet 
Bix  inches.  The  ceiling  is  especially  fine.  The  largo 
centre  panel  is  deeply  coffered  and  the  hand-wrought 
mouldings  around  it,  representing  heavy  festoons  of  leaves 
and  fruit,  are  admirably  modelled.  The  ceiling  within 
this  panel  is  painted  of  a  very  delicate  greenish  tint,  with 
a  monogram  of  Victoria  and  Albert,  roses,  thistles,  sham- 
rocks, and  fleurs-de-lis  in  gold.  The  smaller  comer  panels 
are  filled  with  beautifully  relieved  ornaments,  principally 
regal  insignia  and  the  monogram  C.  R.  The  entablature 
and  cornice  have  highly  relieved  floral  ornaments.  The 
oak  mantel-piece  and  panel  above  it  are  fine  specimens  of 
elaborate  carving.  In  the  centre  of  the  panel  is  inserted 
a  large  oval  mirror.  There  are  several  large  pieces  of 
tapestry  in  this  apartment,  representing  scenes  in  the 
mythological  history  of  Diana. 


THE  ROYAL  APARTMENTS.  135 

We  next  enter  the  Evening  Drawing-room,  a  hand  • 
Bome  apartment,  forty  feet  by  thirty,  and  seventeen  feet 
high.  The  panelled  ceiling  of  this  room  is  ornamented  with 
rich  mouldings,  like  the  others  in  the  suite.  On  the  walls 
are  hung  four  pieces  of  tapestry,  recently  brought  from 
Buckingham  Palace.  The  remainder  of  the  wall  is  covered 
with  crimson  and  gold  flock  paper.  The  windows  of 
this  room  look  towards  the  quadrangle,  whereas,  all 
the  apartments  of  this  suite  which  we  have  described, 
look  towards  the  pleasure  ground  to  the  east  of  the 
Palace. 

The  next  apartment  is  that  commonly  called  the 
Throne-room,  which  is  used  by  her  present  Majesty  as  a 
dining-room.  It  is  fifty-six  feet  by  twenty-nine,  and  six- 
teen feet  six  inches  high.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
crimson  damask,  and,  at  one  end  of  it  is  a  throne,  sur- 
mounted by  the  royal  arms,  which  was  used  at  the  levees 
of  George  IV.  in  1822.  There  are  several  portraits  in 
this  room — a  fine  one  of  George  IV.  in  the  Highland 
costume,  by  Wilkie,  and  others  of  William  and  Mary,  and 
Anne  and  Prince  George  of  Denmark. 

Issuing  from  this  room,  you  come  to  a  vestibule,  which 
is  the  landing-place  to  the  grand  staircase.  Turning  to 
the  left,  you  find  a  door  on  your  right  hand,  which  is  the 
entrance  to  what  is  now  called  Prince  Albert's  Draw- 
ing-room, a  fine  apartment,  forty-seven  feet  by  twenty- 
seven,  which  occupies  the  south-western  tower,  and  has 
two  small  rooms  opening  off  it  at  the  external  angles.  It 
has  an  ornamented  ceiling  in  the  same  style  as  most  of 
the  others,  having  a  large  oblong  panel  in  the  centre, 
Btudded  with  delicate  stars,  and  bearing  the  monogram  of 
Victoria  and  Albert.  The  walls  are  covered  with  a 
crimson  and  gold  flock  paper. 


136  HISTORY   OF   HOLTKOOD. 

There  are  some  otter  plain  rooms  in  the  suite  occu- 
pied by  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  the  junior  members  of 
the  Royal  Family,  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  particu- 
larise. Retracing  our  steps  along  the  vestibule,  we  de- 
scend the  Grand  Staircase,  the  ceiling  of  which,  with 
its  circular  panel,  and  beautifully  elaborate  ornaments, 
is  worthy  of  attention,  and  issue  into  the  quadrangle  at 
its  south-west  corner. 

The  Duke  of  Hamilton,  in  virtue  of  his  office  of 
Keeper  of  the  Palace,  has  a  suite  of  apartments  on  the 
first  and  second  floors  of  the  west  and  north  sides  of  the 
edifice. 


CHAPTER  XVI, 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLYROOD— ROYAL  PARK-13URQU 

OF  CANONGATE,  AND  SANCTUARY. 

^HEN  David  I.  founded  the  Abbey  of  Holyrood 
he  granted  to  its  canons  a  considerable  tract  of 
land  lying  between  the  town  of  Edinburgh  and 
the  base  of  Arthur's  Seat.  He  also  conveyed  to  them,  in 
the  foundation  charter,  a  certain  portion  of  the  craggy 
heights  which  overlooked  their  monastery ;  but  it  is  now 
knpossible  to  indicate  with  precision  the  limits  of  the  an- 
cient conventual  demesne.  When  King  James  IV.  and 
his  son  built  their  palace  close  to  the  Abbey  walls,  they 
doubtless  added  very  considerably  to  the  extent  of  what 
then  became  the  Royal  Park.  We  find  in  the  reign  of 
James  V.  that  there  was  a  "New"*  as  well  as  an  "Old"' 
Park,  the  latter  probably  indicating  the  original  demesne 
of  the  abbots,  and  the  former  the  addition  made  to  it  by 
the  kings.  In  the  Lord  Treasurer's  accounts  in  1541, 
fhere  is  an  entry,  also,  of  £400  paid  to  "  Schir  David 
Murray  of  Balwaird,  knycht,  in  recompense  of  his  landis 
of  Dudingstoune  tane  into  the  New  Park  besyde  Haly- 

*  Accounts  of  Lord  High  Treasiu-er.     Pitcaim's  Trials,  Ajh 
pendix,  p.  *  321. 


138  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

rudelious."  This,  of  course,  indicates  that  the  New  Park 
extended  toward  the  south-east  of  the  royal  demesne.  In 
James  the  Fifth's  time  the  Palace  appears  to  have  been 
surrounded  by  very  extensive  gardens.  We  are'  told  by 
a  contemporary  that  James's  palace  was  very  large  and 
magnificent,  and  that  the  gardens  around  it  were  delight- 
ful, and  extended  as  far  as  the  "  lake,"  or  marshy  ground 
[lacus]  at  the  foot  of  Arthur's  Seat.*  It  appears  from  an 
entry  in  the  Lord  High  Treasurer's  accounts  that  "  the 
loch  beside  the  Abbey"  had  been  drained  in  the  time  of 
James  IV.,  as  a  site  for  a  garden.  Probably  a  portion  of 
it  towards  the  foot  of  the  hill  had  been  left  undrained. 
James  V.  also  caused  a  wall  to  be  built  round  the  whole 
park,  and,  probably,  invested  some  gentleman  in  the 
neighbourhood  with  the  office  of  keeper.  During  his 
daughter's  reign  we  find  in  the  Eecords  of  Justiciary  the 
trial  of  certain  persons  for  "hurting  and  wounding  of 
William  Ahannay,  servant  of  the  Laird  of  Craigemyllare, 
being  his  deputy  in  keeping  the  Queen's  Parh,  near  Edin- 
burgh ;"t  and  about  the  same  period  sheep  must  have 
pastured  on  a  portion  of  the  enclosure,  for  in  the  same 
Record  we  find  that,  in  1556,  Thomas  Bullerwell  was 
"  delaittit  of  the  thiftuous  steling  of  certane  scheip  fra  the 
Quenis  Grace  furthe  of  hir  park."|  In  Queen  Mary's 
time  there  were  probably  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  Palace,  not  only  the  north  and  south  gardens,  of 
which  the  remains  still  exist,  but  others  laid  out  in  ele- 
gant designs  in  St.  Ann's  Yards,  to  the  south-east  of  the 
Palace.  §  In  the  reign  of  James  VI.  Fynes  Moryson  [in 
1598]  speaks  of  the  Palace  as  being  surrounded  by  "  a 

•  Edinburgi  Reg.  Scot,  urbis  descriptio.    Bannat}Tie  Miscel.  i.  187, 

t  Pitcaim's  Criminal  Trials,  vol.  i.  *  381.  %  Ibid,  vol  L  *  888. 

§  Vide  De  Witt's  IMap,  published  in  1617. 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLYEOOD.         139 

park  of  hares,  conies,  and  deare."*  In  1671,  when 
Charles  H.  resolved  to  rebuild  the  Palace  of  his  ancestors, 
he  issued  a  warrant  for  the  purchase  of  the  "  grounds  and 
houses  belonging  to  the  Bishop  and  Dean  of  Edinburgh 
adjacent  to  the  said  Palace."  It  appears  that  Charles 
planned  a  new  garden,  probably  to  the  north  and  north- 
east of  the  Palace,  for  it  is  stated  in  the  warrant  that 
"  his  Majestie's  designe  is  by  this  purchase  to  have  ane 
access  from  his  new  garden,  marked  10,  into  the  Great 
Park;  and  therefore  it  would  be  seen  to  whom  the 
grounds  marked  16  and  17  doe  belong;  that,  if  they  be 
not  the  King's  already,  they  may  be  purchased,  together 
with  the  ground  on  the  east  side  betwixt  the  Deane'a 
House  and  the  Old  Park  dyke,  as  farr  as  the  Clockmill,  to 
the  end  the  King's  passage  to  the  Great  Park  may  bo 
uninterrupted."  ^ 

The  Royal  Park,  as  it  now  exists,  embraces  a  circuit 
of  about  four  and  a  half  miles.  Within  this  extensive 
space  are  included  the  well-known  hill  called  Arthur's 
seat,  the  summit  of  which,  bearing  a  striking  resemblance 
to  a  lion  couchant,  is  822  feet  above  the  sea  level ;  and 
that  wild  crescent  of  perpendicular  cliffs  called  Salisbury 
Crags,  which  towers  so  conspicuously  over  the  city.  The 
close  proximity  of  these  two  rugged  and  rocky  eminences 
to  the  busy  streets  of  the  town  below,  forms  one  of  those 
grand  and  striking  features  that  render  the  aspect  of 
Edinburgh  so  romantic  and  beautiful  in  its  variety.  Be- 
t^veen  the  two  hills  lies  the  valley  called  the  Hunter's 
Bog,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  in  the 
seclusion  of  which  the  stranger  might  imagine  himself  to 
be  wandering  in  some  remote  glen  of  the  Highlands. 
These  heights  are  also  interesting  ground  for  the  natural- 
*  Itineraryt  p.  273. 


HO  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

ist.  Beautiful  crystals  arc  occasionally  found  in  the 
rocka  of  Arthur's  Scat,  and  jasper,  in  veins  of  considerable 
extent,  of  sufficient  hardness  to  take  a  fine  polish.  A 
writer  of  the  sixteenth  century,  whose  description  of  Edin- 
burgh we  have  already  quoted,  informs  us  that  "  in  this 
hill  are  found  precious  stones,  radiant  as  light,  especially 
diamonds  [adamantes]."*  Four  hundred  plants  have 
been  enumerated  as  growing  on  the  declivities,  though 
not  all,  perhaps,  strictly  indigenous;  and  insects  are 
abundant,  especially  three  different  species  of  ants ;  and 
we  are  informed  that  the  rare  butterfly  the  Papilio  Ar- 
taxerxes  is  frequently  seen.f 

The  level  meadows  below,  which  extend  from  the 
back  of  the  Palace  eastward  to  the  gate  near  Parson's 
Green,  are  known  by  the  names  of  St.  Ann's  Yards  and  the 
Duke's  Walk.  The  origin  of  the  former  of  these  names  is 
rather  doubtful,  but  probably  it  had  some  connexion  with 
the  "Altar  of  St.  Ann"  in  the  Abbey  Church.  The 
Duke's  Walk,  we  have  already  mentioned,  was  so  named 
from  its  green  sward  being  the  favourite  place  of  exercise 
of  James  VII.  while  resident  in  Holyrood,  before  his  ac- 
cession to  the  throne.  Amot,  who  published  his  history 
towards  the  end  of  the  last  century,  states  that,  in  the 
memory  of  persons  not  long  deceased,  this  level  meadow 
was  still  dotted  with  tall  oaks.|  In  Edgar's  map  of  Edin- 
burgh, executed  about  the  middle  of  last  century,  the 
ground  at  the  back  of  the  Palace,  and  to  the  south  of  the 
Abbey  Church,  which  is  now  laid  out  as  a  garden,  is 
called  "  The  Bowling  Green."  It  is  probable  that  this 
spot  was  dedicated  to  the  same  purpose  in  the  time  of 
Charles  I.,  for  he  authorised  the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  in  the 

*  Bannatyne  Miscellany,  vol.  i. 
t  Rhind's  Excursions,  p.  1-20.        %  Hist,  of  Edinburgh,  p.  237. 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLYROOD.  141 

charter  which  created  him  hereditary  keeper  of  the 
Palace,  to  appoint  persons  for  cultivating  and  superin- 
tending all  the  gardens  and  orchards,  "  ac  parvo  horto 
infra  idem  Palatium,  sphaeristerio  lie  howltiig-green,^''  &c. 

On  the  north-west  declivity  of  Arthur's  Seat,  on  a 
projecting  rock  overlooking  the  Duke's  Walk,  are  the  ru'ins 
of  St.  Anthony's  Chapel.  This  small  builduig,  when 
entire,  was  about  forty-three  feet  in  length,  eighteen  feet 
in  breadth,  and  the  same  in  height ;  and  had  at  its  west 
end  a  tower  nineteen  feet  square,  and  supposed  to  have 
been  forty  feet  in  height.  Amot  asserts  that  it  was  "  a 
beautiful  Gothick  building,  well  suited  to  the  rugged 
sublimity  of  the  rock ;"  but  its  remains  are  now  too  scanty 
to  admit  of  our  forming  a  judgment  as  to  its  architectural 
merits.  A  fragment  of  the  tower  is  all  that  time  and 
reckless  violence  have  left ;  but  less  than  a  century  ago 
the  whole  buOding  was  in  excellent  preservation.*  At  a 
few  yards  distance,  among  scattered  grey  rocks,  once 
stood  a  little  hermitage,  v/hich  is  said  to  have  been  inha- 
bited by  several  recluses  in  soKtary  succession.  Of  the 
history  of  this  chapel  and  hermitage  almost  nothing  ia 
known ;  but  the  former  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  cell  of 
the  preceptory  of  St.  Anthony  in  Leith.  From  an  entry 
in  the  Lord  Treasurer's  accounts,  we  learn  that  King 
James  IV.,  on  the  1st  April  1505,  gave  143.  "to  St. 
Antoni's  Chapell  of  the  Crag."  A  little  below  is  St.  An- 
thony's Well,  a  spring  of  pure,  cold  water,  which  flows 
from  the  rock  into  a  hollow  stone  basin,  and  wldch,  in 
former  times,  doubtless  served  for  the  pious  uses  of  the 
chapel  above,  and  the  refreshment  of  the  occupier  of  the 
hermitage.  This  old  foimtain  has  long  been  a  favourite 
haunt  of  the  burghers  of  Edinburgh  on  Sundays  and  holi- 
•  Chambers's  Gazetteer  of  Scotland,  vol.  i.  p.  341« 


142  HISTORY  OF  HOLTROOD. 

days,  and  is  alluded  to  in  a  well-known  ballad  of  exqui- 
eite  pathos,  founded  on  the  desertion  of  Lady  Barbara 
Erskine  by  her  husband  James,  second  Marquis  of 
Douglas,  a  man  of  violent  character,  on  a  false  charge  of 
conjugal  infidelity. 

**  Now  Arthur's  Seat  shall  be  my  bed ; 
The  sheets  shaU  ne'er  be  prest  by  me; 
St.  Anton's  Well  shall  be  my  drmk, 
Since  my  fause  luve  's  forsaken  me." 

To  the  west  and  south-west  of  Salisbury  Crags  lie  the 
old  road  of  the  Dumbiedykes  and  the  locahty  called  St. 
Leonard's,  both  immortalized  in  the  fictions  of  the  great 
novelist  of  Edinburgh  ;  and  at  the  other  extremity  of  the 
Royal  Park,  near  the  east  end  of  the  Duke's  Walk,  and 
close  to  the  gate  at  Parson's  Green,  formerly  stood  the 
pile  of  stones,  called  Muschet's  Cairn,  a  place  of  blood 
also  familiar  to  the  readers  of  the  "  Heart  of  Mid-Lothian." 

Round  Arthur's  Seat  and  through  the  Parks  now 
sweeps  the  magnificent  carriage  drive,  called  "  the  Vic- 
toria Road,"  which  was  commenced  in  1844.  It  mounts 
the  hill  at  either  end  by  an  easy  ascent,  and  commands  a 
magnificent  panoramic  prospect  of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  the 
cultivated  and  wooded  country  to  the  south,  the  chain  of 
the  Pentland  hills,  and  the  stony  acclivities  and  declivities 
of  the  fair  metropolis  of  Scotland.  It  is  no  exaggeration 
to  assert  that,  probably,  no  other  capital  in  Europe  is 
possessed  of  a  carriage-way  commanding  so  extensive, 
varied,  and  magnificent  a  series  of  rural  and  urban  pros- 
pects. 

In  1646,  Charles  I.  granted  a  charter  to  Sir  J.  Hamil- 
ton of  Prestonsfield,  a  younger  brother  of  the  second  Earl 
of  Haddington,  conveying  to  him  the  oflBce  of  heritable 
keeper  and  ranger  of  the  "  P^rk  de  Halyrudehouse,"  mi^ 


ENVIRONS  OF  nOLYROOD.  143 

the  'vhole  rents,  privileges,  and  emoluments  thereto  be- 
longing. This  grant  was  conferred  in  payment  of  a  debt 
due  by  the  King  to  Sir  J.  Hamilton.  In  1690,  Thomas, 
Earl  of  Haddington,  acquired  right  to  the  office,  and  ob- 
tained a  charter  from  William  and  Mary,  destining  it  to  the 
heirs  of  entail  of  the  honours  and  estates  of  Haddington. 
This  hereditary  office,  with  its  emoluments,  was  retained 
by  that  noble  family  till  the  year  1843,  when  the  Crown  re- 
sumed the  gift,  paying  the  sum  of  £30,674  to  the  Earl  of 
Haddington  in  name  of  compensation  ;  and  the  Royal 
Park  of  Holyrood  is  now  under  the  surveillance  of  the 
office  of  woods  and  forests,  like  her  Majesty's  other  de- 
mesnes. In  an  action  raised  by  the  minister  of  the 
Canongate  in  1829,  against  the  Earl  of  Haddington,  the 
Court  of  Session  decided  that  "immemorial  consuetude 
has  established  an  exemption  from  payment  of  tithe  in  fa- 
vour of  the  Crown  for  these  lands  called  the  King's  Park." 
On  the  north-west  of  the  ruined  Abbey  Church  is  a 
large  garden  used  in  the  eighteenth  century  as  a  botanic 
garden,  in  which  is  the  curious  old  horologe,  commonly 
denominated  Queen  Mary's  dial,  which  is  ascertained  to 
have  been  erected  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.^  It  forms 
the  apex  of  a  richly  ornamented  pedestal,  which  rests  on 
a  hexagonal  base,  composed  of  three  steps.  The  form  of 
the  horologe  is  multangular,  presenting  no  fewer  than 
twenty  sides,  on  which  are  placed  twenty-four  dials,  in- 
serted in  circular,  semicircular,  and  triangular  cavities. 
Few  of  the  gnomons  remain,  although  the  structure  itself, 
which  is  about  ten  feet  high,  is  still  in  a  good  state  of  pre- 
servation. Between  the  dials  are  sculptured  the  royal 
arms  of  Scotland,  St  Andrew  and  his  cross,  St  Georgeand 
the  dragon,  the  rose,  thistle,  harp,  fleur-de-lis,  and  port- 

^  To  John  Mylne,  "malssoune,"  for  working  and  hewing  the 
dyell  in  the  North  Yaird,  L.408,  15s.  6d.  Scots- 


144  niSTORY  OF  nOLYROOD. 

cnllis  crowned,  with  the  initials  "  C.  R."— "  C.  P."— and 
"  M.  R."  The  two  outer  limbs  of  the  M  are  made  con- 
Bpicuous,  by  being  richly  carved  and  in  higher  relief  than 
the  centre  ones,  from  the  latter  being  evidently  intended 
to  represent  in  a  monogram  "  H.  M."  the  initials  of 
Henrietta  Maria,  the  Queen  of  Charles  I.  This  reading  is 
confirmed  by  a  shield,  charged  with  the  fleurs-de-lis  of 
France,  being  sculptured  beneath  the  initials  in  question. 
The  original  doorway,  wdth  the  royal  arms  sculptm-ed  on 
the  lintel,  surmounted  by  a  thistle  in  high  relief,  still  re- 
mains in  the  garden  wall,  facing  the  "  place  "  or  court- 
yard in  front  of  the  Palace.  A  small  irregularly-shaped 
building  connected  with  the  west  wall  of  the  garden,  and 
abutting  on  the  street  called  the  Abbeyhill,  is  pointed  out 
by  the  finger  of  tradition  as  being  the  bath-house  where 
Mary  used  to  indulge  in  her  milky  ablutions. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  lane  called  "  Croft-an-Righ," 
locally  Croftangry,  leadmg  from  the  park  to  the  Abbey- 
hill,  is  an  old  edifice,  which  was  occupied  as  a  residence 
by  the  Regent  Moray.  Tradition  again  alleges  that  a 
tree  in  the  garden  behind  the  house  was  planted  by  the 
fair  hand  of  Mary  Stuart  herself. 

In  the  precincts  of  the  Palace,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Canongate,  formerly  stood  the  Tennis  Court,  a  place,  of 
course,  originally  intended  for  the  well-known  pastime 
from  which  it  derived  its  name.  It  was  burnt  to  the 
ground  in  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century.  James  IV. 
and  his  son  were  both  passionately  fond  of  the  game  of 
tennis,  as  appears  from  various  entries  in  the  old  recordn 
in  reference  to  "  Caitchepell,  caiche,  kache,"  &c.  In  the 
Lord  Treasurer's  accounts,  under  the  date  29th  Juno 
1527,  we  find  an  entry  of  twenty  shillings  paid  "  for  ballis 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLTROOD.  145 

in  Crummise*  cache-puyll,  quhen  the  Kingis  Grace  playt 
with  the  Lord  Glammise."  On  the  same  day  there  is  a 
curious  entry  of  "  15s.  6d.  gevin  for  eggis  to  bikkir  the 
Castell;"  and  on  the  17th  of  July  there  is  another  of 
twenty  shillings  "  gevin  at  the  Kingis  command  till  puyre 
wivis  that  come  gretand  apone  his  Grace  for  eggis  takin 
fra  thaime  be  his  servandis."  From  these  notices,  it 
would  appear  that  a  foolish  game  had  been  devised  for 
the  amusement  of  the  young  King,  in  a  mock  assault  on  a 
fortress,  raised  very  probably  on  the  tennis  ground,  the  of- 
fensive weapons  on  both  sides  being  eggs.  Mr.  Pitcaim, 
in  a  note  to  these  entries,  observes  that  "  it  may  easily 
be  imagined  in  what  a  plight  both  victors  and  vanquished 
would  be  after  a  cessation  of  hostilities."  The  Tennis 
Court  was  the  scene  of  the  first  theatrical  performances 
after  the  Reformation  in  1599,  when  Queen  Elizabeth,  at 
the  request  of  James  VI.,  sent  a  company  of  actors  to 
Edinburgh,  who  were  licensed  by  the  King,  to  the  great 
annoyance  of  the  city  clergy,  who  in  vain  hurled  their 
anathemas  at  the  votaries  of  Thespis.  In  1680  the  Duke 
of  York  brought  a  part  of  his  own  company  to  amuse  him 
during  his  exile  in  Scotland ;  and  in  Queen  Anne's  reign 
concerts,  conjoined  with  theatrical  representations,  were 
^ven  in  the  Tennis  Court. 

"We  now  come  to  the  Burgh  of  the  Canongate ;  but 
concerning  it,  as  not  necessarily  forming  a  part  of  ouv 
subject,  our  limits  permit  us  to  say  only  a  few  words. 

We  have  seen,  in  the  first  chapter,  that  David  I. 
granted  permission  to  the  canons  to  found  a  burgh  be- 
tween their  Abbey,  or  intended  Abbey,  and  his  Burgh  of 

♦  This  was  perhaps  a  John  Crummy  or  Crummys,  who,  on 
the  31st  May  1544,  obtamed  the  gift  of  "  ye  Abbot's  Medow  .  . 
wyten  the  park  [of  Halymidhouse]  for  all  the  days  of  his  life." 

K 


146  HISTORY  OP  HOLTROOD. 

Edwinsl)urg.  Of  this  grant  the  monks,  of  course,  would 
not  be  tardy  in  availing  themselves,  since  it  conferred  on 
them  not  only  territorial  jurisdiction,  but  an  immediate 
accession  of  revenue.  The  first  street  built  was  naturally 
that  leading  from  "  Edwinsburg"  down  to  the  monastery, 
which  was  named  the  "  Canongate,"  or  "  Street  of  the 
Canons,"  and  gave  its  appellation  to  the  future  burgh. 
The  little  village  of  the  monastery,  thus  fostered  by  royal 
immunities,  and  protected  by  the  potent  arm  of  the 
Church,  speedily  grew  into  a  town,  the  inhabitants  of 
which  repaired  to  the  Abbey  Chapel  for  religious  services, 
as  Eoman  Catholics,  up  to  the  period  of  the  Reformation; 
and,  as  Protestants,  up  to  the  time  of  James  Vn.,  whose 
intention  apparently  was  to  close  the  edifice  to  all  except 
the  Knights  of  the  Thistle.  In  the  reign  of  James  V., 
the  Cowgate,  now  one  of  the  most  miserable  streets  in  the 
old  town,  the  haunt  of  dealers  in  second-hand  furniture 
and  old  clothes,  was  the  residence  of  the  elite  of  the  Scot- 
tish nobihty;  but  in  a  short  time  thereafter,  the  main 
street  of  the  Canongate,  with  its  numerous  closes,  suc- 
ceeded to  the  honour  of  being  the  chosen  abode  of  the 
northern  aristocracy.  The  Union  of  the  two  kingdoms, 
however,  inflicted  a  severe  blow  on  its  prosperity;  and 
the  rise  of  the  New  Town,  and  the  opening  up  of  the  road 
along  the  Calton  Hill  in  1817,  which  rendered  it  no  longer 
the  principal  approach  to  Edinburgh  from  the  east,  com- 
pleted the  downfall  of  the  ancient  burgh  of  the  canons,  and 
gave  its  honoured  but  incommodious  'dwellings  to  be  the 
habitations  of  penury  and  vice.  Still,  however,  till  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  some  of  the  Scottish  nobility 
clung  to  their  old  residences ;  and,  even  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present,  a  few  spinster  and  bachelor  mem- 
bers of  ancient  but  decayed  families,  and  two  or  three 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLTROOD.  147 

feeble  advocates  of  the  divine  right  of  the  Stuarts,  might 
be  found  lingering  in  these  dingy  closes,  preferring  the 
grand  old  associations  of  the  Canongate  to  the  actual 
comforts  and  free  air  of  the  New  Town,  their  residences 
being  externally  distinguished  from  those  of  their  squalid 
neighbours  in  the  same  '*  lands"  only  by  the  brass  knocker 
scrupulously  polished,  and  the  white-washed  landing- 
place  outside  the  door.  With  one  such  remnant  of  the 
old  times  we  were  intimately  acquainted  in  our  boyhood, 
— a  humourist  full  of  antiquated  prejudices,  who  had  hia 
hair  cut  by  an  Old  Town  barber,  and  his  clothes  fashioned 
by  an  Old  Town  tailor ;  who  worshipped  in  an  Old  Town 
chapel ;  pointed  with  admiration  to  the  prospect  of  the 
tall  smoky  chimneys  of  the  same  Old  Town,  as  seen  from 
the  small  windows  of  his  residence  in  Ramsaf^e  Court ; 
and  who  actually  would  not  venture  to  walk  abroad  dur- 
ing George  the  Fourth's  visit  to  Edinburgh,  lest  his  eyes 
might  be  contaminated  by  looking  on  the  descendant  of 
that  "  puir  German  lairdie"  who  had  deprived  the  Stuarta 
of  their  inheritance. 

The  burgh  seal  of  the  Canongate,  an  engraving  of  which 
is  appended  to  the  present  chapter,  displays  the  stag  of  St. 
David  with  the  cross  between  its  antlers,  and  the  Abbey 
and  a  portion  of  the  forest  of  Drumselch  in  the  back 
ground,  with  the  legend  "S.  coie.  burgi.  vicicanonicor. 
monasterii.  sancte.  crucis."  The  motto  of  the  burgh  is, 
"  Sic  itur  ad  astra"  [thus  we  go  to  the  stars],  which,  being 
conspicuously  painted  on  the  walls  of  the  Canongate  Jail, 
has  been  the  subject  of  many  a  sarcastic  jest  as  to  the 
singular  pathway  to  heaven  thus  indicated  by  the  magis- 
trates of  the  bounds. 

After  the  Reformation,  the  superiority  of  the  Canon- 
gate passed  into  the  hands  of  Sir  Lewis  Bellenden  of 


148  HISTORY  OF  nOLYKOOD. 

Broughton,  by  whom  it  was  disponed  in  1627  to  the 
Earl  of  Roxburgh,  from  whom  it  was  acquired  for 
42,000  merks  Scots  by  the  city  of  Edinburgh  in  1636, 
along  with  the  town  of  North  Leith,  that  portion  of  the 
barony  of  Broughton  adjoining  the  Water  of  Leith,  and 
"that  part  of  the  toun,  houses,  and  gardens,  in  St. 
Leonards,  called  Dearenough,  or  the  Pleasance."*  The 
remainder  of  the  Abbey's  Barony  of  Broughton  was 
disponed  at  the  same  time  to  the  magistrates,  council, 
and  ministers  of  Edinburgh  in  trust  for  the  use  and  be- 
hoof of  Heriot's  Hospital  ;t  and  on  the  abolition  of 
hereditary  jurisdictions,  the  trustees  of  that  establishment 
claimed  £5000  as  compensation,  and  were  awarded 
£486:19:84 

At  the  foot  of  the  Canongate,  and  opposite  the  old 
Gothic  archway  which  formerly  was  the  entrance  to  the 
"  place "  or  court-yard  in  front  of  the  Palace,  stood  at 
one  time  the  Girth  Cross,  the  position  of  which  is  still 
indicated  by  a  cross  in  the  causeway.  This  structure, 
as  its  name  imports,  was  the  sacred  boundary  of  the 
Sanctuary  of  Holyrood,  which,  when  touched  by  the  hand 
of  a  fugitive,  declared  him  to  be  within  the  limits  of  the 
city  of  refuge ;  but  at  the  present  day  the  boundary  is  a 
few  yards  to  the  eastward  of  this  point.  This  sanctuary 
for  insolvent  debtors  is  the  only  one  now  existing  in 
Scotland,  and  embraces  the  whole  range  of  the  Royal 
Park,  and  a  small  portion  of  the  Canongate,  commencing 
at  the  Watergate,  a  few  yards  to  the  north-east  of  the 

•  Maitland's  History,  p.  149.  The  "Pleasance"  is  a  corrup- 
tion of  the  name  of  the  ancient  nunnery  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  of 
Placentia. 

i  Chartulary  of  City  of  Edinburgh,  vol.  iv.  p.  349. 

J  Chalmers'  Caledonia,  vol.  ii.  p.  580. 


ENVIKONS  OF  HOLTHOOD.  149 

Girth  Cross,  and  following  a  line  running  southward 
across  the  main  street,  by  the  strand  at  its  foot,  proceed- 
ing through  the  centre  of  the  Horse  Wynd,  and  onward  in 
the  same  direction  till  it  reaches  the  meadow  ground  at 
the  foot  of  Salisbury  Crags.  As  the  limits  of  the  sanc- 
tuary are  distinctly  marked  out  by  a  dotted  hne  in  the 
map  prefixed  to  the  present  volimie,  it  is  unnecessary  to 
give  a  more  minute  verbal  description  of  them. 

It  has  been  a  disputed  point  whether  this  sanctuary  de- 
rives its  peculiar  privileges  from  the  ancient  monastery,  or 
from  the  more  recent  Royal  Palace.  The  learned  editor  of 
the  "Liber  Cartarum  Sancte  Crucis,"  in  the  preface  to  that 
valuable  collection  of  charters,  states  it  to  be  his  opinion 
that,  "  in  spite  of  the  arguments  that  have  been  founded 
on  the  peculiar  terms  of  the  great  charter  of  I^ng  David, 
...  it  will  be  the  more  admitted  the  more  the  subject 
is  investigated,  that  the  sanctuary  for  debtors  ...  is 
founded  on  the  privileges  attached  by  usage  to  the  royal 
residence,  unconnected  with  the  ancient  protection,  which 
the  Abbey,  like  other  churches,  afforded  to  criminals." 

Without  entering  more  minutely  into  the  subject,  we 
may,  perhaps,  be  permitted  to  add,  in  corroboration  of 
this  opinion,  the  important  fact  that  the  actual  limits  of 
the  sanctuary  are  the  marches  of  the  Royal  Park,  not  of 
the  demesne  of  the  abbots.  We  have  already  seen  that 
in  James  the  Fifth's  time,  there  was  a  New  Park  as  well 
as  an  Old  Park,  and  that  the  King,  moreover,  made  certain 
payments  to  Sir  David  Murray  of  Balwaird  for  a  portion 
of  the  lands  of  Duddingstone,  to  be  added  to  the  former. 
Now  the  sanctuary  embraces  all  these  within  its  bounds ; 
while,  had  it  been  an  institution  founded  on  the  rights  of 
the  Abbey,  it  could  have  included  only  the  "  Old  Park," 
or  that  portion  of  the  ground,  by  whatever  title  denomi- 


150  HISTORY  OF  HOLTROOD. 

nated,  which  David  originally  granted  to  his  canons  of 
Holyrood.  Besides  this,  if  the  "  prohibeo  no  aliquis  ca- 
piat pandum  "  of  David's  charter  had  any  relation  to  pro- 
tection from  personal  diligence,  and  if  the  present  sanc- 
tuary derived  its  existence,  as  has  been  alleged,  from  that 
charter,  then  should  the  whole  bounds  of  the  burgh  of 
Canongate  also  be  sanctuary,  because  David's  grant  was 
not  a  partial  one,  but  applied  as  cogently  to  the  open 
space  between  the  Abbey  and  the  "  Burgh  of  Edwinsburg  '* 
as  to  that  between  the  Abbey  and  the  neighbouring  hills. 
Charles  I.  by  a  charter  dated  10th  November  164G, 
created  James  Duke  of  Hamilton  hereditary  keeper  of  the 
Palace,  an  honorary  dignity  which  has  been  possessed  by 
that  noble  family  up  to  the  present  time.  The  Duke,  in 
virtue  of  his  office,  grants  a  commission  to  a  judge  called 
the  "  Bailie  of  the  Abbey,"  whom  he  empowers  to  hold 
courts  "  within  any  place  or  part  of  the  Palace  of  Holy- 
roodhouse  or  pertinents  thereof,"  and  to  appoint  "  fiscals, 
sergeants,  officers,  and  dempsters,  and  all  other  necessary 
members  of  court,  excepting  the  clerk,  the  nomination  of 
whom  is  reserved."  This  functionary  is  chief  magistrate 
of  the  sanctuary,  and  his  court  is  that  in  which  many 
questions  afifecting  persons,  who  reside  or  take  refuge 
within  its  bounds,  are,  in  the  first  instance,  determined. 
The  elections  of  the  Representative  Peers  of  Scotland, 
we  have  already  mentioned,  take  place  in  the  Picture 
Gallery  of  Holyrood, — and  on  these  occasions,  it  is  the 
duty  of  the  Bailie  to  summon  the  inhabitants  of  the  Abbey 
to  appear  marshalled  under  their  officers,  and  form  a  guard 
at  the  Palace  gates.  The  Baihe  is,  of  course,  always  a 
mcmbei  of  the  legal  profession,  and,  among  the  indivi- 
duals who  have  successively  discharged  the  duties  of  the 
office,  we  may  particulaiise  James  Hamilton  of  Pencait- 


ENVIRONS  OF  HOLTROOD.  151 

land,  afterwards  a  Lord  of  Session  from  1712  to  1729, 
and  Mr.  Jeffrey  a  depute-clerk  of  the  same  court,  the 
father  of  the  late  illustrious  Lord  Jeffrey. 

When  an  individual  avails  himself  of  the  privilege  of 
sanctuary,  he  has  twenty-four  hours  allowed  him  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  a  residence  and  obtaining  a  regular 
protection,  or  being  "booked,"  as  it  is  termed.  Khe  neglect 
to  procure  this  within  the  specified  period,  he  is  subject  to 
the  ordinary  operation  of  the  law.  Householders  within 
the  Abbey  bounds  are  required  to  give  in  a  list  of  their 
lodgers  to  the  bailie  or  the  clerk  of  court,  and  there 
are  many  instances  in  the  record  of  persons  being  fined  for 
having  failed  to  obey  this  regulation.  If  a  debtor  absent 
himself  from  the  sanctuary  for  fourteen  days  continuously, 
it  would  appear  that  he  loses  the  benefit  of  the  protection, 
and,  if  he  return,  must  obtain  a  renewal  of  it.  Crown 
debtors  cannot  avail  themselves  of  the  sanctuary,  for, 
as  Mr.  Erskine  says,  "  that  would  be  in  effect  to  use  a 
privilege,  which  arises  merely  from  the  respect  due  to  the 
sovereign,  against  the  sovereign  himself."  On  Sundays, 
the  debtor  is  privileged  to  walk  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
sanctuary  without  fear  of  apprehension ;  and  we  are  as- 
sured that  at  one  time  a  clergyman  resided  within  the 
bounds,  who  left  the  Abbey  late  every  Saturday  night, 
preached  to  his  congregation  on  the  following  day,  and 
betook  himself  forthwith  to  his  asylum,  having  travelled 
in  going  and  returning  fully  forty  miles. 

If  the  creditors  of  a  party  who  has  taken  sanctuary 
aver  that  he  has  absconded,  taking  with  him  large  sums 
of  money,  in  order  to  defraud  them  of  payment  of  their 
just  claims,  the  bailie  may  grant  warrant  to  search  the 
person  of  the  individual  complained  against.  By  the 
i*  act  for  declaring  notour  bankrupts,"  passed  in  1696,  it 


152  HISTORY  OF  HOLYEOOD. 

was  declared  that  any  debtor,  liable  to  personal  diligence, 
who  should  "  retire  to  the  Abbay,  or  any  other  priviledged 
place,"  should,  ipso  facto,  bo  reputed  a  "notour  bankrupt." 
The  Court  of  Session  has  decided  that,  by  this  r.tatute, 
if  a  debtor  have  gone  to  reside  within  the  Abbey  bounds, 
he  has  thereby  incurred  bankruptcy,  even  although  he 
may  not  have  been  regularly  "  booked."  In  1751,  Mr. 
Sommerville  of  Castle  Sommerville  disponed  his  estate  to  a 
creditor,  John  Mitchell  of  Alderston,  as  for  a  price  paid, 
but,  before  the  legal  formulaj  were  entirely  completed,  left 
his  country  residence  and  took  lodgings  in  the  Abbey. 
Mr.  Sommerville's  other  creditors  objected  to  the  validity 
of  this  disposition,  on  the  ground  that,  before  it  was  duly 
executed,  he  was  a  "  notour  bankrupt,"  in  terms  of  the 
Act  of  1696  ;  and  the  Court  of  Session  sustained  the  ob- 
jection, on  the  ground  that  it  was  not  necessary,  in  order 
to  subject  a  debtor  to  the  provisions  of  the  statute,  that 
ie  should  be  entered  in  the  clerk's  books. 

Singularly  enough,  within  the  sanctuary  stands  a  gaol, 
and  in  this  place  of  durance  the  protected  denizens  of 
the  Abbey  may  be  confined,  on  a  decree  obtained  in  the 
Abbey  Court,  for  debts  contracted  to  any  party  while 
resident  within  the  bounds.  In  1810,  Richard  Perry 
Ogilvie,  an  English  refugee,  was  incarcerated  in  this  pri- 
son for  a  debt  incurred  to  Richard  Townley,  a  draper  in 
the  Canongate.  A  petition  was  presented  to  the  Court 
of  Session  by  Perry  Ogilvie,  praying  for  a  reversal  of 
the  baihe's  judgment,  on  the  ground,  principally,  that 
although  that  official  might  be  entitled  to  grant  war- 
rant of  imprisonment  for  alimentary  debts  incurred  to 
the  retail  dealers  of  the  precincts,  he  could  not  take  cog- 
nizance of  actions  raised  against  his  protegees  by  parties 
beyood  the  bounds  of  the  sanctuary,  especially  when  the 


ENVIRONS  OF  nOLYROOD.  153 

ground  of  debt  was,  as  in  this  instance,  a  bill.  The 
judges  of  the  Supreme  Court,  however,  confirmed  the 
decision  of  the  bailie  of  the  Abbey.  It  is,  of  course,  al- 
most unnecessary  to  remark,  that  persons  confined  in  this 
gaol  can,  like  all  Scottish  prisoners  for  debt,  avail  them- 
selves of  the  provisions  of  the  "  Act  of  Grace,"  and  com- 
pel the  incarcerating  creditor  to  aHment  them. 

It  has  also  been  decided  that  the  furniture  and  other 
property  of  persons,  occupying  apartments  in  the  Palace 
of  Holyrood,  cannot  be  poinded  by  authority  of  any  court 
whatever.  This  point  was  decided  in  1826,  in  an  action 
raised  against  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Strathmore.  The 
Court  of  Session  had  previously  found  that  the  furniture 
of  these  noble  persons,  including  several  valuable  paint- 
ings, was  liable  to  be  attached  by  poinding ;  but  the 
House  of  Lords  reversed  that  decision.  It  will  be  ob- 
served, however,  that  the  plea  successfully  urged  in  this 
case,  was  founded  on  the  privileges,  not  of  the  sanctuary, 
but  of  the  Royal  Palace. 

The  only  other  remark  we  think  it  necessary  to  make 
in  relation  to  this  subject  is,  that  a  fraudulent  debtor,  being 
considered  as  a  criminal,  is  not  protected  by  the  "  Girth" 
of  Holyrood,  nor  any  one  who  meditates  flight  from  the 
kingdom,  in  order  to  deprive  his  creditors  of  all  chance 
of  coercing  him  to  discharge  his  just  debts,  for  he  is  ex- 
posed to  the  diligence  of  the  law,  as  being,  what  Scottish 
lawyers  term,  "  in  meditatione  fugae,"  and  may  be  appre- 
hended within  the  bounds  of  the  sanctuary  even  on  Sunday. 

The  protected  denizens  of  Holyrood  appear  to  have 
been  long  known  by  the  soubriquet  of  "  Abbey  Lairds." 
The  term  appears  in  an  old  song  published  in  Herd's  Col- 
lection— * 

•  Vol  ii.  p.  36. 


154  HISTORY   OF  nOLYEOOD. 

^'  The  Borrowstoun  merchants 

■VVill  sell  you  on  tick ; 
For  we  maun  hae  braw  things. 

Albeit  they  sould  break. 
When  broken,  frae  care 

The  fools  are  set  free, 
When  we  mak  them  Lairda 

In  the  Abbey,  quoth  she." 

In  old  times  many  and  desperate  were  the  races  be- 
tween these  "landed  proprietors"  and  the  lynx-eyed  and 
Bwift-footed  officers  of  the  law — the  former  rushing  on, 
hat  in  hand,  panting  and  perspiring  at  every  pore,  to  gain 
the  longed-for  strand,  the  sacred  limit  of  their  "  property," 
and  the  latter  bounding  forward,  followed  by  maudlin 
"concurrents,"  eager  to  intercept  the  fugitives.  Such 
tales  may  now  be  almost  said  to  be  among  the  myths  and 
traditions  of  the  Abbey,  to  be  related  by  degenerate 
tongues  over  a  glass  of  sanctuary  ale  or  toddy,  with  all 
the  reverence  due  to  grey -haired  antiquity.  There  is  a 
Btory  current  within  the  bounds,  that  on  one  occasion  a 
fugitive,  flying  from  a  "Messenger,"  fell  across  the 
"  strand,"  with  his  head  and  shoulders  in  the  Abbey,  and 
the  rest  of  his  person  in  the  Canongate,  and  was  there 
seized  by  his  ruthless  pursuer ;  and  we  are  told  that  the 
judge,  to  whom  the  question  was  referred,  considering 
that  the  nobler  parts  of  the  debtor's  person  were  in 
sanctuary,  decided  that  his  lower  extremities  ought,  in 
equity,  to  participate  in  the  privilege. 

The  number  of  persons  betaking  themselves  to  the 
sanctuary  has  recently  been  much  reduced,  especially 
since  the  passing  of  the  Statute  6th  and  7th  Will.  IV. 
cap.  46,  in  relation  to  the  process  of  "  Cessio  Bonorum." 
The  Records  of  the  Abbey  Court  are  in  existence  only 
from  A.D.  1686.    In  that  year  seventy-five  persons  were 


ENYIRONS  OF  HOLTROOD. 


155 


entered  in  the  books.  The  Records  from  1712  to  1775 
are  amissing;  but,  allowing  the  moderate  average  of 
thirty-seven  for  the  lost  years  [the  entries  in  1712  were 
forty-seven ;  in  1775,  twenty-seven],  the  gross  number  of 
persons  who  have  taken  sanctuary  in  Holyrood  from 
1686  to  the  present  date  is  7042.  In  1788,  the  number, 
which  for  some  time  had  been  small,  began  to  rise,  with 
one  or  two  exceptional  years,  till  it  reached  the  highest 
point  in  1816,  when  118  protected  persons  were  resident 
within  the  bounds.  The  number  continued  high  till  1823, 
when  (with  the  exception  of  1826  and  1827,  when  the 
amounts  were  eighty-seven  and  sixty-three  respectively) 
it  commenced  again  to  descend  till  it  reached  the  lowest 
recorded  point,  namely,  thirteen  in  18*^8.  The  number 
of  persons  who  have  taken  refuge  in  the  sanctuary  during 
the  last  fourteen  years  is  274. 


!i6  QKTOEICAL   GUIDE  TO   THE 

GUIDE 

TO  THE 

PALACE  AND  CHAPEL  EOYAL. 


The  Palace  and  ruined  Abbey-Churcli  of  Holyrood  are 
situated  at  the  east  end  of  the  ancient  street  called  the  Can- 
ongate,  or  Way  of  the  Canons-Regular  of  St  Augustine. 
How  many  wanderers  from  every  region  of  the  earth  have 
traversed  that  old  thoroughfare,  to  visit  these  venerable  piles  ! 
In  the  words  of  an  American  poet, 

Pilgrims,  whose  wandering  feet  have  pressed 
The  Switzer's  snows,  the  Arab's  sand, 

Or  trod  the  piled  leaves  of  the  West, 
My  own  green  forest-land  ; 

and  assuredly  no  student,  either  of  history  or  romance, 
will  leave  the  time-honoured  precints  of  Holyrood  without 
experiencing  the  sad  yet  pleasing  sensations  which  these, 
the  most  interesting  remnants  of  Scottish  antiquity,  are 
calculated  to  educe. 

In  the  Place,  or  oj)en  square  in  front  of  the  Palace,  is  a 
handsome  Gothic  Fountain  erected  in  1859  after  the  style  of 
the  one  formerly  existing  in  the  quadrangle  of  Linlithgow 
Palace.  The  plan  is  octagon  at  the  base,  surrounded  by  a 
large  circular  basin.  It  is  divided  into  three  stages  in  the 
height.  The  first  is  enclosed  by  a  beautifully  cut  rail,  with 
floriated  pinnacles,  and  figures  of  animals  at  the  alternate 
angles,  having  a  basin  behind  ;  the  second  has  eight  figures 
of  Musicians,  &c. ;  while  the  third  is  surmounted  by  an 
Imperial  crown,  supported  by  four  Yeomen  of  the  Guard. 
The  crown  forms  a  cistern,  from  which  the  water  flows  into 


PALiCB    AND    ABBEY    OP  HOLYROOD.  167 

the  basins  in  the  lower  stages,  and  is  then  projected  from 
lions'  heads  into  the  circular  basin  at  the  base. 

The  existing  Palace  consists  of  the  north-western  towers, 
to  the  left  of  the  spectator  (the  remnant  of  the  royal  dwelling 
of  Queen  Mary),  and  the  more  recent  structure  erected  by 
Charles  II.  In  1671  Charles  determined  to  rebuild  the 
palace  of  his  forefathers,  in  accordance  with  a  plan  submit- 
ted for  his  consideration  by  his  "  surveyor,"  Sir  William 
Bruce  of  Kinross,  a  distinguished  Scottish  architect,  and 
before  1679  the  present  Royal  House  of  Edinburgh  was 
completed.  Charles  bestowed  great  attention  on  the  designs 
of  his  new  Palace,  and  suggested  a  few  alterations,  some  of 
which  were  happily  not  adopted  ;  as,  for  instance,  his  pro- 
posal to  raise  the  curtain  between  the  northern  and  southern 
towers  to  the  same  height  as  the  buildings  on  the  other  sides 
of  the  quadrangle.  Sir  William  Bruce  had  designed  the  in- 
terior of  the  quadrangle  to  be  highly  decorated  ;  but  this 
part  of  the  plan  was  not  carried  into  execution,  for  "  his 
Majesty  thinks  the  way  proposed  for  the  inner  court  would 
be  very  noble,  but  he  will  not  go  to  that  charge,  and  there- 
fore his  pleasure  is  that  it  be  plain  ashlar,  as  the  front  is, 
with  table  divisions  for  storeys."  The  builder  of  the  Palace 
was  Robert  Milne,  the  descendant  of  a  family  of  distinguished 
"  masons,"  whose  connection  with  the  edifice  is  comme- 
morated by  an  inscription  in  large  letters  on  the  interior 
surface  of  the  north-west  pillar  of  the  piazza  of  the  quad- 
angle—"  FVN.  BE.  RO.  MILNE.  M.M.  I.  JVL.  1671." 
The  initials  represent  the  words  "  Master  Mason.'' 

The  Palace  thus  built  by  command  of  Charles  II.  is  a 
quadrangular  building,  having  a  court  in  the  centre  9-4  feet 
square.  The  principal  front  is  towards  the  west,  and  ex- 
tends to  the  length  of  215  feet.  At  either  extremity  is  a 
massive  square  tower,  four  storeys  high,  having  three  circu- 
lar towers  or  turrets  at  its  exterior  angles,  which  rise  from 
the  ground  to  the  battlements  of  the  main  tower,  and  ter- 
minate in  conical  roofs.  A  glance  at  the  northern  and 
southern  towers  of  the  western  front  is  sufficient  to  assure 
the  spectator  that  the  former  is  a  portion  (indeed  the  only 
remaining  one)  of  the  Palace  of  James  V..  while  the  latter 


158  HISTORICAL   GUIDE  TO   THE 

is  merely  an  imitation  of  it,  built  in  the  time  of  Cliarles  II. 
These  two  great  towers  are  connected  hy  a  receding  screen, 
or  range  of  building,  of  mixed  architecture,  which  is  con- 
siderably lower  than  the  interior  sides  of  the  quadrangle,  so 
that  the  pediment  of  the  eastern  side  is  distinctly  visible  to 
one  looking  at  the  western  elevation.  In  the  centre  of  this 
front  is  the  grand  entrance,  composed  of  four  Roman  Doric 
columns,  over  which  are  sculptured  the  royal  arms  of  Scot- 
land, below  an  open  pediment,  on  which  are  two  reclining 
figures,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  small  octagonal  tower, 
terminating  in  an  imperial  crown.  Passing  through  the 
gateway,  you  enter  the  inner  court,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  piazza,  having  nine  arches  on  each  side.  The  east,  north, 
and  south  sides  of  the  quadrangle  are  three  storeys  high,  and 
over  the  centre  of  the  east  side  is  a  pediment,  in  which  are 
sculptured  the  royal  arms  of  Britain.  The  eastern  front  of 
the  Palace,  which  looks  towards  the  Park,  consists  of  three 
storeys,  like  the  interior  sides  of  the  quadrangle,  which  we 
have  just  described.  Between  the  windows  of  these  three 
storeys  are  ranges  of  pilasters,  the  lowest  Doric,  the  second 
Ionic,  and  the  third  Corinthian,  corresponding  also  with 
those  of  the  quadrangle.  It  has  been  remarked  that  this 
fa§ade  is  not  unlike  the  less  ornamented  portions  of  ihe 
French  palaces. 

The  visitor,  on  entering  the  Palace  by  the  front  gateway, 
turns  to  his  left  hand,  and  the  first  door  he  comes  to  is  that 
leading  to 

THE  PICTURE  GALLERY. 

This  great  chamber  is  not  within  the  tower  of  James  V. 
and  Mary,  but  is  a  portion  of  Charles  the  Second's  Palace. 
It  measures  150  feet  in  length  by  24  broad,  and  its  height 
is  about  20  feet.  It  is  hung  round  w^ith  portraits  of  a  hun- 
dred reputed  kings  of  Scotland,  from  the  misty  times  of 
Fergus  1.  down  to  the  end  of  the  Stuart  dynasty,  which 
were  painted  by  a  Fleming  named  James  De  Witt.*   Several 

*  The  contract  by  James  de  Witt  with  the  Government  in 
February  1684.  for  the  painting  of  these  pictures^  still  exists.    De 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.       159 

of  these  paintings  were  slashed  by  the  sabres  of  Hawley*s 
valiant  dragoons  after  their  defeat  at  Falkirk,  but  were  sub- 
sequently repaired.  This  apartment  is  historically  interest- 
ing from  having  been  used  by  the  Pretender  as  a  ball-room 
during  his  occupation  of  Holyrood.  It  is  the  room  in  which 
the  great  ball  was  given,  so  familiar  to  the  admirers  of 
"  Waverley,"  and  to  such  visitors  its  floor  will  still  seem  to 
be  trod  by  the  unfortunate  Prince,  the  bold,  devoted  Fergus 
M'lvor,  the  noble,  high-minded  Flora,  and  the  gentle, 
woman-like  Rose  Bradwardine.  Since  the  Union,  it  has 
been  the  scene  of  the  elections  of  the  Scottish  representative 
peers,  and  is  also  used  for  the  levees  of  the  Lord  High 
Commissioner  to  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of 
of  Scotland. 


Note. — The  names  of  the  Kings,  and  the  dates  of  their 
accession,  are  printed  exactly  as  they  are  given  on  the 
pictures.  The  figures  zvithin  brackets  are  the  numbers 
on  the  originals  themselves. 


1  (97)  Robert   Bruce,  1306.     (B.  of  Bannockb.  1314.) 

2  (47)  Congallus  II.  558. 

3  (57)  Eugenius  VI.  688. 

4  (56)  Eugenius  V.  684. 

5  (100)  Robert  Stewart,  1371. 

6  (61)  Etfinus,  730. 

7  (60)  Mordacus,  715. 

8  (64)  Solvathius,  767. 

9  (96)  John  Baliol,  1292. 


"Witt  became  bound  to  paint  one  hundred  and  ten  portraits  in 
two  years,  he  supplying  the  canvass  and  colours ;  and  the  Govern- 
ment, on  their  part,  agreed  to  pay  him  one  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds  sterling  yearly,  and  to  supply  him  with  the  ''  Originalls  " 
from  which  he  was  to  copy. 

This  contract,  and  other  documents  connected  with  it,  appeared 
iu  volume  Third  of  the  Bannatyne  Miscellany. 


IGO  HISTORICAL   GUIDE   TO  THE 

10  (101)  Robert  III.  1390. 

11  IS6)     Romachus,  348. 

12  (102)  James  I.  1424.     (Murdered,  1487.) 

13  (91)     David  I.  1124.     (Founder  of  the  Abbey.) 

14  (59)     Eugenius  VII.  699. 

15  (63)     Fergus  III.  764. 

16  (62)     Eugenius  VIII.  761. 

17  (103)  James  II.  1437.     (Killed,  1460.) 

18  (68)     Alpinus,  831. 

19  (67)     Dongallus.     Sive  Dugallus,  824. 

20  (66)     Convallus  III.  819. 

21  (104)  James  III.  1460.     (Murdered,  1488.) 

22  (73)     Gregory,  876. 

23  (71)     Constantinus,  II.  859. 

24  (70)     Donald  V.  854. 

25  (105)  James  IV.  1489.     (Killed  at  Flodden,  1513.) 

26  (79)     Culenas,  966. 

27  (72)     Etlius  cognomento  Alipes,  874. 

28  (75)     Constantine  III.  904. 

29  (106)  James  V.  1514. 
80  (89)     Edgar,  1098. 

31  (80)     Kenneth  III.  970. 

82  (76)     Malcolm  I.  943. 

33  (107)  Mary  Stuart,  1543.     (Beheaded  8th  Feb.  15870 

34  (95)     Alexander  III.  1219. 

35  (94)     Alexander  II.  12  J  4. 
86  (90)     Alexander  I.  1107. 
37  (108)  James  VI.  1566. 
88  (83)     Malcolm  11.  1004. 

39  (82)     Grimus,  996. 

40  (74)     Donald  VI.  904. 

41  (109)  Charles  I.     (Beheaded  30th  Jan.  1649.) 

42  (86)     Malcolm  III.  1057. 

43  (85)     Macbeath,  1040. 

44  (84)     Duncan  I.  1034. 

45  (110)  Charles  II. 

46  (52)     Ferchardus  I.  621. 

47  (111)  James  VII. 


PALACE   AND   ABBEY   Ot   HOLfROOD.  161 

4G*     James  III.  of  Scotland,  his  son  afterwards  James  IV., 
(circa)  1484.— On  the  reverse, 
The  Holy  Trinity.* 
47*     Margaret  of   Denmark,  Queen  of  Scotland,  (circa;, 
1484. —  On  the  reverse, 

Sir  Edward    Boncle,   Provost   of  Trinity 
College  Kirk,  Edinburgh.* 

•  These  highly  interesting  memorials  of  Scottish  history  were 
in  the  Royal  Collection  at  Hampton  Court,  but  at  what  period 
they  were  removed  from  Scotland  has  not  been  clearly  ascer- 
tained. In  a  Catalogue  of  Pictures  belonging  to  James  II.,  before 
his  abdication  in  1688,  under  the  head  Hampton  Court,  they  are 
there  enumerated  ;  No.  955,  one  of  the  kings  of  Scotland  at  devo- 
tion, crowned  by  St  Andrew,  James  IV.  No.  960,  one  of  the 
queens  of  Scotland  at  devotion,  a  saint  in  armour  by  her.  But 
no  mention  is  made  of  the  paintings  on  the  reverse.  In  a  late 
Catalogue  of  the  paintings  at  Hampton  Court  they  were  num- 
bered 509  and  510,  and  are  said  to  be  by  Jan  de  Mabuse  ;  hni 
this  appears  to  be  a  mistake.  In  1857,  these  pictures  were  sent 
to  the  Art  Treasures  Exhibition  at  Manchester,  and  in  their 
Catalogue  they  were  ascribed  to  Hugo  Van  Der  Goes. 

Through  the  enthusiastic  zeal  of  David  Laing,  Esq.,  F.S.A.,  and 
of  W.  B.  Johnstone,  Esq.,  RS.A.,  a  Memorial,  signed  by  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  the  Lord  Provost  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  other  persons  of  distinction,  was  addressed  to  the 
Queen  at  Balmoral,  praying  Her  Majesty  to  allow  these  paintings, 
at  the  close  of  the  Exhibition,  to  be  transferred  to  Holyrood 
Palace. 

On  her  return  from  Balmoral,  Her  Majesty,  through  Sir  Benja- 
min Hall,  First  Commissioner  of  Public  Works,  was  graciously 
pleased  to  comply  with  the  prayer  of  this  Memorial  ;  and,  in  con- 
sequence of  a  subsequent  representation  to  Lord  John  Manners, 
then  First  Commissioner  of  Public  Works,  permission  was  granted 
to  restore  their  proper  names.  Having  now  reached  their  most 
appropriate  place,  the  Scottish  people  cannot  but  feel  grateful  to 
Her  Majesty  for  having  restored  to  this  countiy  a  work  of  so 
much  importance  for  illustrating  the  history  of  art  in  Scotland. 

In  a  paper  read  to  the  Society  of  Antiquaries,  at  their  meeting, 
November  1857,  and  printed  for  private  circulation  (to  which 
we  are  mdebted  for  the  following  notices),  Mr  Laing  clearly 
shows  that  the  leading  portraits  could  not  at  any  time  repre- 
sent James  IV.  and  his  Queen,  nor  could  Mabuse  have  been 
the  artist.  But  the  Arms  of  Scotland  and  Denmark  impaled 
being  exactly  blazoned,  prove  them  to  be  portraits  of  James  III. 
and  his  Queen  Margaret  of  Denmark.  In  the  first  quarter  the 
\atter  exhibits  three  Crowns  for  the  three  United  Kincr-doms  of 


48 

(98) 

49 

(32) 

50 

(48) 

51 

(88) 

52 

(92) 

53 

(35) 

54 

(77 

55 

(98) 

56 

(99) 

57 

(2) 

58 

59 

(5) 

60 

(4) 

61 

(3) 

62 

(18) 

162  HISTORICAL    GUIDE  TO   TH2 

William,  1165. 
Donald  II.  264. 
Kiunatellus,  569. 
Duncan  II.  1094. 
Malcolm  IV.  1153. 
Fincormacus,  301. 
Mainus,  291  B.  C. 
David  Bruce,  1333 
Edwardus  Balliollus,  1332. 
Feretharus,  305  B.C. 
Fergus  I.  330  B.C. 

Nothatus,  233  B.C.  , 

Dornadilla,  262  B.C. 
Indulfus,  969. 
Caratacus  {sic)  35. 

Denmark,  Sweden,  and  Norway  ;  the  second  has  the  three  Lions 
of  Denmark  ;  the  third  the  Lion  and  Axe  of  Norway ;  and  the 
fourth  the  Dragon  for  Sclavonia,  with  an  escutcheon  of  pretence 
surmounted  by  Oldenburg.  The  banner  borne  by  the  Saint  in 
Armour  is  the  common  cross  of  the  Crusades,  with  the  inscrip- 
tion AVE  MARIA. 

The  marriage  of  James  III.  and  Margai-et  of  Denmark  took 
place  in  the  Abbey  Church  of  Holyrood  in  July  1469,  and  the 
birth  of  the  young  Prince  James,  who  was  born  in  the  year 
1471-2,  and  is  here  represented  as  a  youth  of  about  twelve  years 
of  age,  serves  to  fix  the  probable  date  to  the  year  1484. 

The  Arms  on  the  reverse,  three  Buckles  and  a  Cheverou,  were 
those  of  the  Boncle  Family,  and  serve  to  prove  that  these  portraits 
were  painted  not  later  than  the  above  date  as  an  altar-piece  for  the 
Collegiate  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  Edinburgh,  by  an  artist  of 
the  Van  Eck  school,  and  that  the  ecclesiastic  kneeling  was  Sir 
Edward  Boncle,  the  first  provost  of  that  establishment,  and,  as 
such,  the  Queen's  confessor.  Having  thus  identified  the  eccle- 
siastic, a  key  is  furnished  to  the  entire  composition.  If  in  the 
principal  figure  seated  at  the  organ,  in  the  character  of  St  Cecilia, 
we  recognise  the  deceased  Queen  Mary  of  Gueldres,  by  whom  the 
church  was  founded  in  the  year  1462,  accompanied  by  one  of  her 
daughters,  and  the  Provost  as  her  confessor,  oS'ering  up  his  devo- 
tions to  the  Holy  Trinity,  in  whose  honour  that  church  was  con- 
secrated, the  propriety  of  such  a  decoration  becomes  at  once 
apparent.  The  Coronet  denotes  her  royal  rank,  and  her  age  is 
that  of  a  person  not  less  than  thirty,  which  she  had  attained  at 
the  time  of  her  decease. 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD        163 


63 

(9) 

Josina,  169  b.c. 

64 

(8) 

Thereus,  171  B.C. 

65 

(f) 

Rutherus,  231  b.  c. 

66 

(27) 

Donaldus  I.  199. 

67 

(25) 

Ethodius  I.  165. 

68 

(19) 

Corbredus  I.  55. 

69 

(14) 

Evenus  II.  77  B.  c. 

70 

(40) 

Fergusius  II.  404. 

71 

(15) 

Ederus,  60  b.  c. 

72 

(65) 

Achaius  787.    (Said  to  have  been  ally  of  Char 
lemagne's.) 

73 

(11) 

Durstius  10  B.  c. 

74 

(12) 

Evenus  I.  98  b.c. 

75 

(13) 

Gillus,  79  B.C. 

76 

(16) 

Evenus  III.  12  b.  c. 

77 

(20) 

Dardanus. 

78 

(24) 

Conarus,  149. 

79 

(23) 

Mogaldus,  113. 

80 

(22) 

Lugtacus,  110. 

81 

(21) 

Corbredus  (Galdus)  76. 

82 

(31) 

Findocus,  253. 

83 

(29) 

Athirco,  231. 

84 

(37) 

Angusianus,  321. 

85 

(33) 

Donald  III.  265. 

86 

(34) 

Crathilinthus,  277. 

87 

(41; 

Eugenius  11.  420. 

88 

(38) 

Fetheimaehus,  354. 

89 

(39) 

Eugenius  I.  357. 

90 

(42) 

Dongardus,  451. 

91 

(44) 

Congallus  I.  479. 

92 

(45) 

Goranus,   501. 

93 

(46) 

Eugenius  III.  535. 

94 

(49) 

Aidanus,  570. 

95 

(50) 

Kennethus  I.    605. 

96 

(58) 

Amberkeletus,  697. 

97 

(54) 

Ferchardus  II.  646. 

98 

(55) 

Malduinus,    664. 

99 

(69) 

Kennethus  II.  834.     (Conqueror  of  the  Pict?.) 

00 

(51) 

Eugenius  IV.  606. 

164  HISTORICAL    GUIDE   TO    THE 

On  leaving  the  Picture  Gallery,  you  return  to  the  great 
staircase. 

103  St  Mark's  Place,  Venice. 

You  then  advance  to  the  door  on  your  left  hand,  and 
enter 

LORD   DARNLEY's   ROOMS. 

These,  of  course,  are  in  the  more  ancient  portion  of  the 
building  ;  and  the  first  apartment  visited  is  the 

AUDIEXCE   CHAMBER. 

This  room  contains  three  fine  specimens  of  ancient  tapes- 
try. The  first,  on  the  left,  represents,  in  the  foreground, 
a  vineyard,  with  the  vines  entwining  four  oak-trees.  Nude 
figures  of  boys,  like  cupids,  are  seen  sporting  on  the  ground, 
climbing  among  the  branches,  plucking  the  ripe  clusters,  and 
throwing  them  to  their  companions.  In  the  background  is 
an  ancient  hamlet,  beyond  which  may  be  discerned  a  river 
and  a  bridge. 

The  next  of  these  tapestries  also  exhibits  in  front  four 
oak-stems  encircled  by  vines.  At  the  foot  of  one  tree  is  a 
basket  filled  with  grapes,  while  strawberries  here  and  there 
peep  from  their  leaves.  Here,  too,  nude  boys  sport  among 
the  branches,  pluck  grapes,  and  throw  them  to  companions 
on  the  ground.  Through  the  trees  may  be  traced,  in  long 
perspective,  an  elegantly-built  street,  with  human  figures 
apparently  crossing  each  other. 

The  third  design  in  this  series  depicts,  in  the  background, 
a  lake,  commanded  at  one  extremity  by  a  castle.  The  lake 
contains  two  islets,  planted  with  trees,  reflected  in  the  still 
water.  The  front  scene  contains  a  large  orange-tree,  with 
nude  boys,  perched  upon  its  branches,  plucking  the  fruit 
and  flinging  it  to  a  companion  on  the  ground.  At  the  foot 
of  this  tree  are  other  boys  variously  employed.  One  is  per- 
forming a  somersault,  a  second  is  carrying  a  comrade  on  his 
back,  a  third  is  manufacturing  soap-bubbles,  a  fourth  is 
blowing  a  bubble  into  the  air,  a  fifth  is  trying  to  catch  it, 
and  a  sixth  is  riding  on  a  stick,  while  he  watches  the  others. 

105  James  Stewart,  when  young. 

106  The  Admirable  Crichton, 

107  Charles  II.  in  armour. 


PALACE    AND    ABBEY    OF    HOLYROOD.  165 

108  The  Queen  of  James  VI.,  by  Van  Somer. 

109  James  VI.,  by  Van  Somer. 

110  The  Queen  of  Bohemia,  by  C.  Janssen. 

111  The  King  of  Bohemia,  by  C.  Janssen. 

112  The  Children  of  Charles  I.,  after  Vandyke. 

113  Charles  IL,  by  EusseD. 

114  James  VIL,  by  Eussell. 

115  Queen  Mary. 

116  Henry,  Prince  of  Wales. 

117  Female  Head. 

The  visitor,  leaving  this  apartment  by  a  door  on  his  left, 
enters 

A   ROOM 

in  that  portion  of  the  Palace  built  by  Charles  II.  In  this 
chamber  there  are  two  fine  pieces  of  ancient  tapestry.  The 
one  on  your  right  as  you  enter,  represents  the  well-known 
historical  story  of  the  appearance  of  the  flaming  cross  in  the 
heavens  to  Constantino  the  Great  some  days  before  the  battle 
between  him  and  Maxentius  for  the  imperial  crown.  The 
motto  "^'ti  hoc  {signo)  vinces^'  is  conspicuously  embroidered  in 
one  of  the  upper  corners.  The  other  piece  of  tapestry  occu- 
pies the  wall  immediately  to  the  left,  and  represents  the  en- 
gagement between  these  contending  claimants  for  the  empire 
of  the  world.  The  miraculous  cross  is  conspicuous  on  the 
shields  and  standards  of  Constantine's  troops.  The  battle 
was  fought  below  the  walls  of  Eome,  a.d.  312. 

118  James,  4th  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

119  Lady  Ann  Spencer,  Duchess  of  Hamilton. 

120  Henry,  2d  Earl  of  Pembroke,  in  armour. 

121  William,  2d  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

122  King  James  VI. 

123  King  Charles  II. 

124  Douglas,  8th  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

125  William,  3d  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

126  King  James  VII. 

127  James,  2d  Marquis  of  Hamilton. 

128  King  Henry  VI. 

129  Lord  John  Bellasys. 

The  visitor  now  returns  to  Lord  Darnley's  rooms,  and,  pass- 
ing through  the  Audience  Chamber,  enters  by  a  door  on  his 
left,  what  was  in  all  probability 


163  HISTORICAL    GUIDE   TO    THE 


LORD    DARNLEYS   BED-ROOM. 


In  this  apartment  is  an  elaborate  piece  of  tapestry,  re- 
sembling, in  design  and  texture,  the  specimens  contained  in 
the  Audience  Chamber.  The  picture  sets  before  us  a  plea- 
sure-ground, an  alcove,  and  an  orangery.  In  the  foreground 
are  four  orange-trees,  with  nude  boys  mounted  on  the 
branches,  and  plucking  the  fruit,  while  their  companions  are 
dancing  below  to  the  music  of  their  own  pipes.  This  room 
also  contains  a  screen  which  belonged  to  Charles  I.,  an  inlaid 
cabinet,  and  some  ancient  chairs. 

130  Cardinal  Beaton. 

131  First  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

132  Lord  Darnley  and  his  Brother,  by  L.  de  Heere. 

133  First  Duke  of  Hamilton. 

134  A  Hermit  at  his  Devotions. 

135  Portrait  of  a  Lady  unknown. 

136  Female  Figure  and  Child. 

137  Nymphs  and  Satyrs. 

138  Sir  William  Hamilton. 

139  Pastoral  Scene,  with  Euins  in  the  background. 

140  Queen  Mary,  Consort  of  William  IIL 

141  The  Countess  of  Lennox,  by  Sir  A.  More. 

142  John  Knox. 

143  Queen  Mary. 

144  Countess  of  Cassillis. 

145  King  William  III  in  armour. 

LORD    DARNLEY's    DRESSING-ROOM. 

The  turret-room  on  the  left  was  Lord  Darnley's  dressing- 
room. 

146  Lady  Mary  Fielding,  first  Duchess  of  Hamilton. 

147  Lady  Ann  Cochrane,  Duchess  of  Hamilton. 

148  Female  Figure,  with  a  large  shell  at  her  feet. 

QUEEN  Mary's  private  stair. 

This  stair,  which  entered  on  the  east  side  of  James  V.'s 
towers,  leads  up  from  a  turret-room,  on  the  right,  to  Queen 
Mary's  apartments.  By  this  stair  the  assassins  of  Eiccio 
mounted  to  the  apartments  of  Darnley,  where,  in  concert 
with  him,  they  assembled  to  consummate  their  plan  for  the 
murder  of  the  unfortunate  Secretary. 

The  walls  of  this  room  are  co\  ered  with  tapestry,  illus- 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.       1G7 

'rating  the  classic  story  of  Meleager  and  Atalanta.  In  the 
foreground  Meleager  presents  the  boar's  head  to  Atalanta  ; 
on  the  left  is  a  huntsman,  with  two  hounds  in  the  leash ; 
while  forest  scenery  and  ancient  architecture  fill  up  the 
background  of  the  picture. 

Returning  through  Lord  Darnley's  rooms,  and  leaving 
them  by  the  left-hsmd  door  of  the  Audience-Chamber,  the 
visitor  ascends  a  staircase,  and  enter-s  what  historians,  poets, 
and  novelists  have  combined  to  render  perhaps  the  most  in- 
teresting suite  of  rooms  in  Europe — the  Apartments  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots. 

The  first  is  that  commonly  called 

queen  Mary's  audience-chamber, 

a  room  measuring  twenty-four  feet  by  twenty-two,  and  light- 
ed by  two  windows,  one  of  which  looks  towards  the  north,  the 
other  towards  the  south.  The  roof  is  divided  into  panelled 
compartments,  adorned  with  the  initials  and  armorial  bear- 
ings of  royal  personages :  and  the  walls  are  hung  with  ancient 
tapestry,  the  colour  of  which,  however,  have  been  almost 
obliterated  by  the  uncourtly  hand  of  Time.  In  this  apart- 
ment is  the  bed  of  Charles  I.  when  resident  in  Holyrood.  It 
has  evidently  been,  at  one  time,  a  magnificent  piece  of  furni- 
ture ;  and  its  curtains,  now  mouldering  and  moth-eaten,  are  ot 
embossed  velvet.  On  this  couch  Prince  Charles,  the  unfortun- 
ate descendant  of  its  former  occupant,  reposed  in  September 
1745;  and,  after  the  battle  of  Culloden,  his  conqueror,  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland,  placed  his  head  upon  the  same  pillow. 
This  room  contains  also  some  richly-embroidered  chairs  and 
other  articles  of  furniture  of  the  period  of  Charles  I.  But 
it,  of  course,  derives  its  chief  interest  from  its  fair  but  unfor- 
tunate occupant,  Mary,  of  whose  distressing  altercations  with 
Knox  it  was  too  frequently  the  scene. 

149  Battle  of  the  Boyne. 

lo<)  Head  of  a  Boy. 

1-51  Earl  of  Moray,  Regent  of  Scotland. 

152  Hortense  Machini,  niece   of  Cardinal  Mazarin. 

1 53  A  Magdalen. 

154  A  Bacchic  Festival. 

155  A  Game  at  Nine-pins. 

156  Duke  of  Lauderdale. 

157  Duchess  of  Lauderdale. 

Issuing  from  this  apartment  you  enter 


168  HISTORICAL   GUIDE   TO   THE 

QUEEN   MAP.y'S   bed   EOOJI. 

a  chamber  twenty-two  feet  one  inch,  by  eighteen  feet  six 
inches,  lit  by  two  windows  looking  toward  the  south  and 
west.  The  ceiling  is  divided  into  panelled  compartments,  of 
diamond  and  hexagonal  form,  adorned  with  the  emblems  and 
initials  of  Scottish  sovereigns  ;  and  the  walls  are  hung  with 
tapestry,  illustrative  of  the  mythological  tale  of  the  Fall  of 
Phaeton,  who,  according  to  the  poetical  belief  of  the  Greeks, 
lost  his  life  in  rashly  attempting  to  drive  the  chariot  of  his 
father,  the  god  of  the  Sun.  Here  stands  what,  we  are  told, 
was  the  bed  of  Queen  Mary,  the  decayed  hangings  of  which 
are  of  crimson  damask,  with  green  silk  fringes  and  tassels. 
The  historical  and  romantic  associations  connected  with  this 
room  render  it,  undoubtedly,  the  most  interesting  apartment 
in  Scotland  ;  and  the  melancholy  and  faded  aspect  of  the 
chamber  itself  is  in  admirable  keeping  with  its  tale  of  sorrow 
and  of  crime.  On  the  north  side  of  the  room  is  a  small  door, 
half  hidden  by  the  tapestry,  opening  on  the  secret  stair  by 
which  Darnley  and  his  infamous  associates  ascended  to  the 
royal  apartments  to  assassinate  Eiccio. 

158  Queen  Elizabeth. 

159  Henry  VIII. 

160  Portrait  of  a  Lady  unknown. 

161  Queen  Mary. 

At  the  south-west  corner  of  this  chamber  a  narrow  door 
leads  to 

THE   DRESSING-ROOM 

of  the  lovely  Queen,  a  little  apartment  about  ten  feet  six 
inches  square,  hung  with  decayed  tapestry. 

Passing  to  the  north-east  corner  of  the  bed-chamber,  close 
by  the  door  of  the  private  staircase,  is  the  entrance  to  another 
room  or  closet,  commonly  called 

QUEEN  mart's  SUPPING-ROOM,^ 

the  little  apartment  so  famous  in  Scotiish  story  as  the  scene 
of  the  assault  upon  the  unfortunate  Italian  in  the  presence  of 
the  Queen.     Every  one  whose  imagination  is  at  all  vivid  will 

^  It  may  be  proper  to  remind  the  visitor  who  may  be  surprised  at 
the  smallness  of  this  royal  apartment,  that  the  Queen  received  in  it 
only  her  most  familiar  and  attached  friends  and  attendants,  the  great 
rooms  being  in  the  other  portion  of  the  Palace,  which  was  burned  in 
the  time  of  the  Commonwealth. 


PALACE   AND   ABBEY    OF   HOLYROOD.  169 

here  easily  realise  the  particulars  of  that  terrible  event — the 
Queen  forcibly  restrained  by  Damley — the  overthrown  table, 
and  scattered  viands — the  fierce  and  scowling  conspirators, 
pressing  into  the  little  room,  and  the  dagger  left  sticking  in 
the  body  of  Eiccio,  who  crouches  behind  Mary  for  protection. 
From  this  closet  the  assassins  dragged  their  victim  through 
the  other  royal  apartments,  stabbing  him  as  they  went,  till 
he  fell  dead  at  their  feet  at  the  top  of  the  staircase,  by  the 
door  of  the  audience- chamber.  To  this  room  the  bi^utal 
Ruthven,  reeking  from  the  slaughter,  returned  and  demanded 
a  cup  of  wine,  and  here  it  was  probably  that  the  conspirators 
threatened  to  cut  the  Queen  "  into  coUops "  if  she  dared  to 
address  the  populace  from  the  window. 

The  frames  on  the  walls  contain  fragments  of  the  figured 
silk  hangings  which  originally  adorned  the  room. 

162  Portrait  of  a  Youth  unknown. 

The  visitor  returns,  through  the  Bedroom  and  Audience- 
Chamber,  to  the  top  of  the  principal  staircase,  where  the 
conspirators  finally  despatched  Riccio ;  and,  descending  to  the 
piazzas  of  the  Inner  Court,  and  turning  to  his  left,  proceeds 
to  the  north-east  corner  of  the  quadrangle,  and  enters 


THE    CHAPEL   BOYAL. 

This  is  the  sole  remaining  portion  of  the  great  church  of 
the  Monastery  of  Holyrood.  Fire  and  time  have  totally 
obliterated  the  transepts  and  the  choir  ;  and  the  ignorance 
of  a  builder  of  the  last  century  has  rendered  even  that 
which  remains  a  roofless  though  not  a  tottering  ruin.  But 
the  shattered  church  of  King  David  is  still  a  deeply  interest- 
ing relic  to  every  student  of  architectural  and  ecclesiastical 
antiquity.  The  monastery  was  founded  in  the  commence- 
ment of  the  twelfth  century,  dilapidated  by  Edward  II.  in 
1322,  burned  by  Richard  II.  in  1385,  renovated  by  Abbot 
Crawfurd  towai'ds  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  again 
mutilated  in  the  English  invasion  of  1547,  when  the  transepts 
and  choir  were  destroyed,  stripped  of  its  ecclesiastical  furni- 
ture at  the  outbreak  of  the  Reformation,  desecrated,  even  to 
the  tomb  of  the  kings,  in  1688;  and,  last  scene  of  all,  when 
reduced  to  the  dimensions  of  its  nave,  crushed  to  the  gi'ound, 
in  irretrievable  ruin,  by  the  folly  of  a  self-styled  architect.^ 

1  In  1758,  the  roof  having  become  ruinous,  the  Barons  of  Ex- 


170  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 

But  many  are  the  historical  associations  connected  with  it. 
Within  these  walls  many  Icings  and  Queens  of  Scotland  were 
crowned — here  James  II.  was  married  to  Mary  of  Gueldres, 
and  James  III.  to  Margaret  of  Denmark — this  was  the  scene 
of  that  high  ceremonial,  at  which  the  Papal  Legate  presented 
to  James  IV.,  in  the  name  of  Pope  Julius  II.,  a  purple  cro^vn, 
and  that  richly  ornamented  sword,  which,  under  the  name  of 
the  "  Sword  of  State,"  is  still  preserved  among  the  Eegalia  of 
Scotland — and,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  existing  church, 
under  the  great  window,  Mary,  in  an  evil  hour,  plighted  her 
troth  to  the  foolish  and  dissipated  Darnley. 

During  the  middle  ages,  conventual  churches  and  chapter- 
houses were  much  used  as  places  of  interment  for  persons  of 
rank  and  opulence  ;  and  large  bequests  were  frequently  made 
to  monastic  establishments,  on  the  condition  that  the  remains 
of  the  donor  should  be  buried  within  the  sacred  precincts. 
The  Abbey  Church  of  Hol}TOod  appears  to  have  been  the  last 
resting  place  of  many  of  the  great  of  former  times  ;  but  the 
destruction  of  the  choir  and  transepts  included  also  the  de- 
molition of  many  of  the  more  ancient  memorials  of  the  depart- 
ed. We  are  informed  that  within  this  church  were  deposited 
the  remains  of  David  11.^  James  II.,  and  James  V.,  Kings  oi 
Scotland,  Magdalene  of  France,  the  Queen  of  the  last,  and 
several  youthful  members  of  the  blood-royal.  Of  the  tomb  ol 
David,  however,  which  was  built  of  stone  brought  from 
Flanders,  not  a  vestige  remains  ;  and  the  precise  spot  where 
James  II.  was  interred,  is  still  a  matter  of  considerable  doubt. 

In  order  that  the  visitor  may  form  a  correct  idea  of  the 
general  style  and  details  of  the  ruined  chapel,  we  should  advise 
him,  on  entering,  to  turn  to  his  left,  and  going  out  by  the 
great  western  door,  to  examine  the  principal  features  of  the 
western  front.  This  consists  now,  it  will  be  observed,  of  only 
one  tower  to  the  north,  and  the  great  gateway  with  the  two 
curious  windows  above  it.  The  site  of  the  other  tower  is 
occupied  by  a  portion  of  the  palace  built  by  Charles  II.    The 

chequer  employed  a  builder  to  renew  it  This  individual,  instead 
of  putting  a  new  wooden  roof  with  slates  over  the  building,  covered  it 
with  flagstones  and  a  quantity  of  stone  work.  The  old  walls  bore  vtp 
for  a  time  against  this  monstrous  infliction,  but  at  last  gave  vray  dur- 
ing the  night  between  the  2d  and  3d  of  December  1768. 


A1J13EY    OF   nOLYROOT) 

WEST    FRONT 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.         171 

surviving  tower,  which  is  dismantled,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
style  of  architecture  belonging  to  the  period  of  transition  from 
the  Romanesque  to  the  first  pointed  or  early  English  style  in 
Scotland,  (from  about  a.d.  1170  to  1175.) 

It  was  lit  by  four  large  windows,  one  on  each  side,  divided 
by  a  single  shaft.  Below  these,  on  the  west  and  south  sides, 
it  is  adorned  by  two  storeys  of  arcades,  with  a  row  of  sculp- 
tured heads  between  them,  to  correspond  with  the  enrichments 
of  the  main  wall  of  the  nave,  of  which  that  portion  still  re- 
mains which  connects  the  tower  with  the  north  side  of  the 
gateway.  The  lower  range  of  arcades  is  richly  ornamented, 
and  is  composed  of  trefoiled  arches  resting  on  clustered  shafts. 

The  doorway  is  a  noble,  high  arched,  and  deeply  recessed 
one,  having  eight  shafts  on  either  side,  with  capitals  composed 
of  birds  and  grotesques,  and  mouldings  rich  with  flowered  and 
toothed  ornaments,  and  belongs  to  the  best  years  of  the  early 
English  style  in  Scotland,  namely,  about  1181.  The  tym- 
panum, or  space  between  the  lintel  and  the  curved  mouldings 
above,  is  adorned  by  an  arcade  of  five  pointed  arches,  and 
below  this,  by  a  row  of  cherubs,  sculptured  on  the  architrave. 
The  central  western  mndows  are  in  a  style  somewhat  allied 
to  the  perpendicular,  but  are  very  peculiar  in  their  character, 
having  flat,  segmental  arches  adorned  with  six  pendent  cusps 
or  fleurs-de-lis,  instead  of  tracery,  and  slender  muUion  shafts 
receding  from  the  external  surface  of  the  wall. 

Above  the  doorway,  and  between  the  central  windows,  is  a 
tablet,  inserted  by  Charles  I.,  bearing  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, which,  in  the  circumstances,  is  peculiarly  striking. 

HE  SHALL  BUILD  ANE  HOUSE 

FOR  MY  NAME,  AKD   I  WILL 

STABLISH  THE  THRONE 

OF  HIS  KINGDOM 

FOR  EVER. 

BASILIC  AM     HANC      3E\n 

RUTAM  CAROLUS  REX 

OPTIMUS      INSTAURAVIT 

ANNO   DONI 

CIO.    locxxxm. 


112 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 


The  visitor  now  re-enters  the  Chapel,  and  stepping  a  short  yiny 
towards  the  left,  takes  a  general  survey  of  the  interior,  remem. 
bering,  of  course,  that  what  now  remains  was  only  the  nave 
of  the  original  edifice.  On  the  north  side  of  the  church, 
all   that  remains  are  two  shattered  piers,  o'lt  of  the  seven 


that  originally  di\aded  the  body  of  the  nave  from  the  aisles, 
and  the  outward  wall  of  the  latter,  which,  however,  is  now 
standing  only  as  far  up  as  the  "  table,"  which  runs  along 
above  the  lancet-shaped  windows,  and  belongs  to  the  transi- 
tion style  above  described. 

On  the  interior  surface  of  this  wall,  immediately  below  the 


Y    Of    i:OLY?vOOD 


VALACE  AKD  ABBEY  OF  HOLYEOOD.       173 

windows,  is  an  arcade  of  circular  arches,  intersecting  each 
other,  and  resting  on  single  shafts,  having  a  square  abacus, 
and  variously  ornamented  capitals.  This  arcade  is  an  excel- 
lent specimen  of  that  peculiar  style  to  which  has  sometime? 
been  ascribed  the  original  idea  of  the  pointed  arch. 

Towards  the  western  end  of  the  north  wall  there  is  a  door- 
way, which  appears  to  have  been  the  one  commonly  used  by 
all  persons  who  were  not  inmates  of  the  Abbey. 

A  great  part  of  the  east  end  of  the  existing  church  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  window  34  feet  2  inches  high,  by  20  feet  broad, 
built,  of  course,  since  the  demolition  of  the  choir  and 
transepts,  as  is  also  that  portion  of  the  wall  immediately 
beneath^  which  every  observer  will  remark,  is  entirely  compos- 
ed of  the  debris  of  other  portions  of  the  edifice.  This  window, 
which  is,  therefore,  comparatively  modern  in  date,  is  filled 
above  for  about  two-fifths  of  its  height  with  quatrefoil  tracery, 
and  below,  it  is  subdivided  by  four  mullions  and  a  transom. 
It  was  blown  in  by  a  violent  storm  in  1795,  but  restored  fi-om 
its  own  ruins,  which  still  lay  scattered  on  the  gi'ound,  in  the 
year  1816.  This  window,  and  the  wall  beneath  it,  occupy  the 
western  arch  of  the  great  central  tower  of  the  church,  which 
is  generally  supposed  to  have  been  taken  down  along  with  the 
choir  and  transepts,  by  the  directions,  or  at  the  suggestion  of 
Adam  Bothwell,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  the  commendator  of  Holy- 
rood,  about  the  year  1570  ;  but  we  are  inclined  to  hazard  an 
opinion  that  it  had  been  removed  by  Abbot  Crawfurd  towards 
the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and  never  rebuilt.^ 

The  eastern  ends  of  the  aisles  of  the  nave,  where  they  com- 
municated with  the  transepts,  have  been  filled  up  with  windows, 
each  resting  on  a  wall,  as  in  the  case  of  the  great  central  arch, 
— and  that  on  which  the  window  of  the  north  aisle  stands  is 
principally  composed  of  screen  work,  taken  evidently  from 
some  other  portion  of  the  building. 

1   Vide  Note  B, 


171 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 


On  ihe  soutli  side  of  the  building  the  roof  of  the  aisle  aud 

the  piers  which  support- 
ed the  nave  still  remain, 
together  with  the  arches 
of  the  triforium,  and  a 
few  small  fragments  of 
the  clerestory.  On  most 
of  the  piers  the  com- 
mencements of  the  ribbed 
vaultings  of  the  roof  of 
the  nave  are  still  visible. 
The  following  is  a  re- 
presentation of  the  ca- 
pitals of  one  of  the  clus- 
tered columns  of  the  south  aisle. 


(3n  the  inner  surface  of  the  wall  of  the  south  aisle  is  an  ar- 
cade, as  on  the  north  side,  but  the  arches  which  compose  it 
are  quite  in  a  different  style,  being  Pointed.  Each  of  the 
shafts  has  a  distinct  capital.  Two  specimens  are  engraved 
below. 


The  western  extremity  of  this  aisle  is  encroached  upon 
to  a  small  extent  by  the  wall  of  the  Palace.  Here  there 
is  a  door  which  communicates  with  the  quadrangle  of  the  royal 
residence,  and  near  it,  but  on  the  west  wall,  is  a  doorway,  now 


F^LACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  UOLYROUD. 


175 


built  up,  which  formerly  led  into  the  south-west  tower  of  the 
church,  and  communicated  also  through  the  tower  with  those 
building?  of  the  Palace  which  existed  prior  to   Charles  the 

Second's  time.     The 
wall  of  the  north  aisle 
is    supported    exter- 
nally by  seven  upright 
buttresses,      adorned 
with  canopied  niches 
and  pinnacles.     The 
ornaments      of      the 
doorway,  at  the  west- 
end  of  this  aisle,  are 
elaborate,    and    evi- 
dently in    the    same 
style    with    the    but- 
tresses,— being,  in  all 
probability,    built   by 
Abbot    Crawfurd    in 
the  fifteenth  century. 
At  the  east-end  of 
the  south  aisle,  and  at 
tlie  back  of  the  square 
mass  of  masonry  which 
surmounts  the  Royal 
Vault  is  a  small  door- 
way,   now    built    up, 
which    communicated 
with  the  old  cloisters 
of  the  Abbey.      This 
door  and  the  portion 
of    the    wall    imme- 
diately adjoining  itarr 
the  most  ancient  por- 
tion  of    the      edifict 
now  existing,    plainly 
belonging  to  the  last 
years  of  the  Norman  or  Romanesque  epoch,  and  cannot  be  o/ 


176 


HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 


later  date  than  1160.     The  doorway  is  composed  of  a  round- 


headed  arch, 
with  zigzag  and 
billet  mould- 
inn-s,  resting  on 
twosingleshafts 
with  the  square 
abacus.  On  the 
outside  of  this 
aisle  there  re- 
mains the  lower 
stage  of  five 
fl^dng  buttress- 
es, but  the} 
are  not  very  ele- 
gant in  their 
proportions. 


They  spring 
from  piers  about 
]  0  feet  distant 
from  the  wall, 
and,  crossing 
what  was  for- 
merly the  roof 
of  the  cloister, 
rest  against  flat 
pilasters  on  the 
waU  of  the  aisle. 
Both  from  these 
and  the  upright 
buttresses  of  the 
north  side  there 
sprung  a  second 


stage,  which,  spanning  the  roof  of  the  aisle  and  triforium, 
supported  the  wall  of  the  clerestory.  Distinct  indications 
of  this  second  stage  of  buttresses  are  visible  on  the  south 
wall.  In  niches  cut  In  the  lower  stage,  on  either  side  of  the 
building,  are  sculptured  the  arms  of  Abbot  Crawfurd. 

A  large  portion  of  the  north  and  south  aisles  of  the  Abbey 
Church  are  paved  with  gravestones  of  that  peculiar  class  call- 
ed Incised  or  Engraved  slabs.  This  specjes  of  sepulchral 
memorial,  which  was  exceedingly  common  in  France  and  other 
continental  countries  in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries, 
is  also  not  unfreqaently  to  be  met  with  in  Scotland,  down  to 
a  period  comparatively  recent.  Besides  those  at  HoljTOod, 
there  are  good  specimens  at  Ratho  and  Roshn,  near  Edin- 
burgh, Seton  in  East  Lothian,  Kinkell  and  Foveran  in  Aber- 
deenshire, Kildalton  m  the  Island  of  Islay,  and  various  other 
places  in  Argj-leshire.  The  slabs  of  HoljTOod  have  an  aver- 
age breadth  of  about  three  feet,  and  vary  from  six  to  seven 
feet  in  length.  Many  of  them  are  broken,  and  the  inscriptions 
)n  several  of  the  more  ancient  have  been  rendered  illegible  by 
he  action  of  the  weather.  A  considerable  number,  however, 
still  present  inscriptions  which  can  be  deciphered  in  whole  or 
in    part,    with  numerous   engraved,  devices,    such   as  crosses. 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF   HOLYKOOD.  177 

floriated  or  plain,  swords,  chalices,  coats  of  arms,  hammers, 
squares,  &c.  Two  or  three  have  merely  an  inscription  round 
the  border  without  any  device  whatever  ;  others  have  an  in- 
cised cross  only,  without  any  legend.  The  oldest  of  them 
which  presents  a  legible  date  is  of  the  year  1455. 

We  shall  now  describe  the  more  remarkable  tombs,  both 
ancient  and  modern  in  the  Chapel  Royal  of  Holyrood,  com- 
mencing with  those  to  the  left  of  the  great  western  entrance, 
and  advancing  by  the  north  aisles. 

The  first  in  order  is  that  of 


No.    1.   Lord  and  Lady  Reay. 

This  is  a  plain  altar   tomb,    bearing  the  following  inscrip- 
tion. 

Uader  this  stone 

Are  laid  the  remains  of 

The  late  Right  Honourable  George,  Lord  Re  ay, 

And  Elizabeth  Fairley,  his  wife, 

In  the  grave  thus  undivided, 

As  in  life  they  were  united 

In  that  Divine  bond 

Of  Christian  Faith  and  Love, 

Which  ennobled  their  earthly  affection, 

By  elevating  each  view  and  desire 

In  one  undeviating  course, 

Towards  another  and  a  better  world, 

Georoe,  Lord  Reay  died  27th  February  1768, 

Aged  34. 

Elizabeth,  Lady  Reay,  died  10th  November  1800, 

Aged  61. 

This  stone  is  Inscribed,  January  1810, 

In  token  of  grateful  respect  and  affection, 

By  their  Daughterji, 

The  Honourable  Mrs  H.  Fcllartox, 

And  the  Honourable  Georgina  M'Kay. 


No.  2.  The  imposing  mural  monument  of  Viscount  Belhaven 
in  the  north-west  tower.  It  was  erected  by  his  nephews,  Sir 
Archibald  and  Sir  Robert  Douglas.  The  monument,  which 
may  be   more  properly  called  an   altar    tomb,    is  formed   of 


178  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 

Italian  marble,  and  is  on  the  whole  a  meritorious  work  of  art. 
It  displays  a  recumbent  figure  of  his  Lordship  the  size  of  lile, 
arrayed  in  his  robes  of  state,  and  wearing  his  coronet,  his  right 
arm  resting  on  a  cushion,  the  head  raised  in  an  attitude  ol 
attention,  and  the  left  arm  supporting  a  sword  in  a  direction 
parallel  with  the  figure.  On  either  side  of  the  figure  rises 
a  fluted  column  supporting  an  open  pediment,  over  which  are 
placed  his  Lordship's  arms. 

This  is  the  nobleman  of  whom  Bishop  Burnet  tells  a  singu- 
lar story,  in  reference  to  Charles  the  First's  revocation  of  the 
tithes  in  Scotland.  The  Scottish  nobles  who  had  got  posses- 
sion of  the  church  property,  were  frantic  at  the  idea  of  this 
resumption,  and  resolved  to  "  knock  out  the  brains  "  of  the 
Earl  of  Nithsdale,  Charles's  commissioner,  if  he  persisted  in 
the  matter.  A  meeting  was  appointed,  at  which  Lord  Bel- 
haven,  who  had  become  blind,  desired  to  be  seated  close  to 
one  of  Lord  Nithsdale's  adherents,  of  whom  he  said  he  would 
'*  make  sure.''''  He  was  accordingly  placed  beside  Viscount 
Ayr,  whose  hand  he  grasped  during  the  conference.  When 
the  Viscount  asked  him  the  cause  of  his  holding  him  so  firmly, 
Belhaven  replied  that  his  loss  of  sight  always  caused  him  to 
be  apprehensive  of  falling.  In  reality,  however,  he  held  in 
his  other  hand  a  dagger,  with  which  he  intended  stabbing  the 
Viscount  if  any  discussion  ensued.  Within  the  recess,  above 
the  figure,  is  engraved,  on  one  side,  an  inscription  in  Latin, 
of  which  the  following  is  a  translation. 

"  Here  are  interred  the  remains  of  Robert,  Lord  Viscount  Belha- 
ven, Baron  of  Spot,  &c.,  Counsellor  to  King  Charles,  and  most  inti- 
mately in  favour  with  him,  because  formerly  he  had  been  most  dear  to 
Henry,  Prince  of  Wales,  and  Master  of  his  Horse.  But  he  being 
dead,  and  Charles  his  brother  now  reigning,  he  was  made  chamber- 
lain to  the  king's  household,  and  entertained  with  a  singular  degree  of 
favour,  and  advanced  to  great  honours  and  wealth.  In  his  youth  he 
enjoyed  the  sweet  society  of  Nicholas  Murray,  daughter  to  the  Baron 
of  Abercairnej,  his  only  wife  ;  who  lived  with  him  not  above  eighteen 
months,  and  died  in  child-bed  with  her  child.  When  grievous  old 
age  came  upon  him  (as  weary  of  bad  times  and  customs),  withdraw- 
ing himself  from  the  noise  of  the  court,  he  returned  to  his  country. 
He  nominated  Sir  Archibald  and  Sir  Robert  Douglasses,  baronets, 
sons  to  his  eldest  brother,  to  be  his  heirs,  dividing  equally  amongst 
them  all  his  lands  and  goods,  except  some  legacies  ;  and  they  erected 
this  monument  to  hb  memory,  as  a  token  of  their  gratitude. 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.       179 

Nature  supplied  in  him  by  sagacity,  what  his  mind  wanted  of  edu- 
cation. He  was  inferior  to  none  in  a  good  capacity  and  candour.  He 
would  soon  be  angry,  but  was  as  soon  calmed.  This  is  one  thing  he 
liad  in  liis  life,  which  scarcely  could  be  alike  acceptable  to  all ;  for 
loyaity  towards  his  prince,  love  to  his  country,  kindness  to  his  rela- 
tions, and  charity  to  the  poor,  he  was  singular.  In  prosperity  he  was 
meek  and  moderate ;  in  adversity  his  constancy  and  magnanimity 
prevailed  to  his  very  end.  He  died  at  Edinburgh  the  12th  day  of 
January,  and  from  the  incarnation  of  the  Messiah  1639,  and  of  his  age 
66,  being  the  third  year  above  his  great  climacteric." 

No.  3.  On  this  slab  is  an  ornamental  cross,  the  stalk  of 
which  passes  through  an  elegantly  formed  chalice.  The  base 
of  the  stone  is  broken,  and  no  portion  of  the  inscription  is 
legible. 

No.  4.  A  floriated  cross  with  an  ornamental  base.  The 
following  is  the  inscription  round  the  edge  of  the  stone  : — 
"Hie  jacet  dns.  Robertus  Cheyne,  XII.  prior  hujusce 
monasterij  qui  obiit  XVII.  die  Sept.  An.  Dni.  MCCCCLV." 

No.  5.  A  plain  cross  and  calvary,  surrounded  by  the  fol- 
lowing inscription  : — Hie  jacet  Marjoria  Duncan  uxor  Thomo 
Duncan  qui  obiit  XVI.  die  me.      Octob.  A.D.  MC***." 

No.  6.  In  the  centre  is  a  shield  between  the  letters  M.  E., 
shewing  a  pale  charged  with  a  cross  crosslet  fitchy,  issuing 
out  of  a  crescent.  Below  the  shield  are  a  skull  and  a  bone, 
and  the  words  "  memento  mori."  The  inscription  round  the 
edge  of  the  stone  is  "  Heir  lyes  ane  honourable  woman  callit 
Margaret  Erskin  Lady  Alerdes  and  Dame  XVII.  July  159*." 

No.  7.  On  this  ancient  slab  are  engraved  two  large  two- 
handed  swords,  about  five  feet  long,  and  surrounded  by  a 
border  of  two  parallel  lines,  without  date  or  inscription. 
There  are  several  examples  elsewhere  of  a  single  sword  placed 
by  the  side  of  a  cross,  but  we  are  not  aware  of  any  other  stone 
on  which  two  large  swords  appear  side  by  side,  without  any 
other  device  or  inscription  to  explain  the  cause  of  their  united 
presence.  It  has  been  conjectured,  not  without  probability, 
thatthis  slab  indicates  the  resting-place  of  two  warriors  of  one 
house,  brothers,  or  father  and  son,  who  have  fallen  on  the 
same  field. 

No.  8.  A  floriated  cross  and  calvary  without  date  or  in- 
scription. 


ISO 


lilSTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 


No.  9.  A  stone  with  the  Inscription  '*  Heii-  lyis  ane  Honest 
man  Robert  Votherspone,  Burgis  and  Deacon  of  ye  Hammer- 
men in  ye  Canogalt,  E,.  V.  1520." 

No.  10.  An  imperfect  slab  with  a  plain  cross  and  calvary. 
On  the  dexter  side  of  the  cross  is  a  mallet  surmounted  by  a 
crown  ;  on  the  sinister  side  a  peculiar  and  indistinct  device. 
The  inscription  is  illegible,  except  the  date,  which  is  1543. 

No.  11.  The  first  part  of  the  legend  on  this  slab,  goes 
round  the  border  of  the  stone,  and  the  rest  runs  in  parallel 
lines  across  the  body  of  it,  "  Heir  lyes  ye  noble  and  poton 
Lord  James  Douglas,  Lord  of  Cau^ell  and  Torthorall,  wha 
raarrid  Daime  Eliezabeth  Cairlell,  air  and  heretrix  yarof :  wha 
was  slaine  in  Edinburgh e,  ye  xiii  day  of  July  in  ye  zeier  of 
God  1608.  Was  slain  in  48  ze."  At  the  bottom  of  the  slab 
is  a  shield,  but,  with  the  exception  of  three  mullets  in  chief 
on  the  dexter  side,  the  charges  are  obliterated. 

This  Lord  Douglas,  who  was  only  a  territorial  baron,  not 
a  peer,  was  Sir  James  Douglas  of  Parkhead,  a  nephew  of  the 
Regent  Morton.  His  lady  was  the  only  child  of  Wilham, 
Master  of  Carlyle,  who  died  in  the  lifetime  of  his  father 
Michael,  fourth  and  last  Lord  Carlyle.  In  1596  Sir  James 
killed  Captain  James  Stewart,  Earl  of  Arran  and  Chancellor 
of  Scotland,  an  unworthy  favourite  of  James  VI.  to  avenge 
the  wrongs  sustained  by  his  uncle,  the  Regent.  Twelve  years 
afterwards  he  himself  was  run  through  the  body  on  the  High 
Street  of  Edinburgh  by  William  Stewart,  the  nephew  of 
Arran.  Sir  James's  son  was  created  Lord  Carlyle  of  Tor- 
thorall in  1609. 

No.  12.  A  plain  cross  and  calvary.  On  the  dexter  side 
a  pair  of  compasses  over  a  device  which  resembles  a  book, 
and  on  the  sinister  side  a  carpenter's  square  over  a  maUet. 
All  that  is  legible  of  the  inscription  is  "  Hie  jacet  honorab, 
Vir  Johannes  .   .  .  et .  .  .  Anno  dni  1543." 

No.  13.  At  the  top  of  this  stone  is  the  date  1592.  Im- 
mediately below  is  a  hammer  surmounted  by  a  crown,  and 
having  the  letters  B.  H.  on  either  side.  Beneath,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  slab,  is  a  shield  charged  with  a  ship  and  three  cin- 
quefoils  in  chief.  At  the  bottom  are  the  skull,  bone,  and 
"  memento    mori.*'       The  inscription  round  the    border   is 


PALACE  AND   ABBEY    OF  HOLYROOD,  181 

"  Heir  lyis  ane  honest  woman  calet  IMarget  Baxter  spous  to 
iiartel  Hamelton  Dakmaker  Burges  of  ye  Canengait." 

No.  14.  The  mural  monument  of  George  AVishart,  Bishop 
of  St  Andrews,  a  sufferer  in  the  cause  of  Charles  I.,  and 
chaplain  to  the  gi'eat  Marquis  of  Montrose,  the  history  oi 
whose  warlike  achievements  he  composed  in  Latin.  The  fol- 
lowing is  the  quaint  translation  of  the  Latin  inscription  giver 
in  Menteith's  ''  Theater  of  Mortahty." — 


"  Another  famous  Doctor  Wiseheart,  here 
Divine  George  Wiseheart  lies,  as  may  appear  ; 
Great  orator,  with  eloquence  and  zeal, 
Whereby  on  hardest  hearts  he  did  prevail. 
Three  Wisehearts,  Bishops,  so  the  third  was  he, 
When  Bishop  of  fair  Ed'nburgh's  diocie. 
Candour  in  him  was  noble  ;  free  of  stain  ; 
In  cases  all,  the  same  he  did  remain — 
Above  four  hundred  years  great  Wiseheart's  name, 
For  honours,  has  pure  and  untainted  fame  ; 
W^hile  one  thereof  both  purse  and  mitre  bore, 
Chancellor  and  Bishop  near  St  Andrew's  choir ; 
And  when  brave  Bnice  did  for  his  nation  plead, 
At  Norham,  vnth  undaunted  hand  and  head, 
Then  Robert  Wisheart  sat  in  Glasgow's  chair, 
With  courage  for  his  bounty  singular. 
To  these  great  George  was  not  inferior 
In  peace,  and  was  elsewhere  superior. 
High,  without  pride  ; — his  bounty  had  no  guile. 
His  charity  to  th'  poor  nought  could  defile, 
His  loyalty  untainted — faith  most  rare, 
Athenian  faith,  was  constant  every  where, 
And  though  a  thousand  evils  did  controul, 
None  could  o'ercome  his  high  and  lofty  soul  — 
To  King  and  Country  he  was  faithful  still ; 
Was  good  and  just,  ev'n  from  a  constant  will. 
Thrice  spoil'd  and  banish'd,  for  full  fifteen  years, 
His  mind  unshaken, — cheerful  still  he  bears 
Deadly  proscription,  nor  the  nasty  gaol 
Could  not  disturb  his  great  seraphic  soul. 
But  when  the  nation's  King,  Chaei.es  the  second  blest 
On  his  return  from  sad  exile  to  rest ; 
They  then  received  great  Doctor  Wiseheart — he 
Was  welcome  made,  by  church  and  laity  ; 
And  where  he  had  been  long  in  prison  sore, 
He  nine  years  Bishop,  did  them  good  therefore. 


182  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THK 

At  length  he  dy'd  in  honour :  where  his  head 
To  much  hard  usage  was  accustomed. 
He  liv'd  'bove  seventy  years — and  Edinburgh  town 
Wish'd  him  old  Nestor's  age,  in  great  renown ; 
Yea  Scotland,  sad  with  grief,  condol'd  his  fall, 
And  to  his  merits  gave  just  funeral. 
Montrose's  acts,  in  Latin  forth  he  drew  ; 
Of  one  so  great,  ah  !  monuments  so  few." 

No.  15.  A  small  neat  cenotaph  to  the  memory  of  George, 
fourteenth  Earl  of  Sutherland.  On  the  top  are  placed  the 
arms  of  this  illustrious  house,  quartered  with  those  of  various 
other  noble  families.  On  the  pillars  are  placed  the  names  of 
several  of  the  noble  families  of  Scotland  with  which  they  are 
connected — Gordon.,  Lennox.,  Elphinstone,  Perth,  and  Eglin- 
toune. 

"  To  the  memory  of  the  most  illustrious  Lord  George,  Earl  of 
Sutherland,  Lord  Stiathnavar,  &c.  heritable  Sheriff  of  said  lands,  and 
lord  of  the  regality  thereof ;  one  of  the  Keepers  of  the  Great  Seal, 
under  the  most  renowned  Prince  King  William,  one  of  the  Lords 
of  Privy  Council,  and  the  nineteenth  Earl  descended  in  a  right  line 
from  Allan,  Thane  of  Sutherland,  whom  Macbeth,  in  the  rage  of 
his  usurping  tyranny,  about  the  year  of  Christ  1057,  made  away  with 
for  endeavouring  to  restore  the  Kingdom  to  Malcolm  IIL  lawful 
heir  to  the  Crown.  His  mournful  widow  Jean  Wemyss,  eldest  daugh- 
ter to  David  Earl  of  Wemyss,  erected  this  monument  of  everlasting 
fame. 

"  To  the  defunct  Earl  she  brought  forth  John,  now  Earl  of  Suther- 
land, and  Anne,  Viscountess  of  Arbuthnot.  And  to  her  former  hus- 
band, Archibald,  Earl  of  Angus,  eldest  son  to  the  Marquis  of  Douglas, 
she  brought  forth  Archibald,  Earl  of  Forfar,  and  Margaret,  given  in 
marriage  to  the  Viscount  of  Kingstoun.  Five  other  children  of  the 
said  Lady  Dowager  died  in  their  nonage.  The  Earl  himself  was 
born  in  his  own  Castle  of  Dornoch  2d  November  1633,  and  died  at 
Edinburgh,  4th  March  1703." 

Here  are  also  deposited  the  remains  of  William,  seventeenth  Earl 
of  Sutherland,  and  his  amiable  Countess  Mary,  daughter  of  William 
Maxwell  of  Preston,  Kirkcudbright.  His  Lordship  died  at  Bath, 
June  16th,  1766,  just  after  he  had  completed  his  31st  year  ;  and  the 
Countess,  June  1st,  1766,  in  her  26th  year,  16  days  before  the  Earl. 

The  bodies  of  this  illustrious  and  affectionate  pair  were  brought  to 
Scotland,  and  interred  in  one  grave  in  Holyrood  Abbey,  9th  August 
1766. 

"  Beauty  and  birth  a  transient  being  have, 
Virtue  alone  can  triumph  o'er  the  grave." 


PALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.         Ig3 

No.  16.  A  flat  stone.  At  the  top  a  viscount's  coronet  sur- 
mounting a  shield,  which  displays,  quarterly,  1st  and  4th,  the 
sun  in  splendour,  2d  and  3d,  three  mullets  on  a  chevron  be- 
tween a  chief,  charged  with  as  many  mascles,  and  a  unicorn's 
head  erased  in  base.  The  following  inscription  surrounds  the 
shield  :  "  Heir  lyeth  ane  noble  lady  D.  Isobel  Ker  Vieounte? 
of  Drumlanreg  1628."  She  was  the  fourth  daughter  of 
Mark  Ker,  1st  Earl  of  Lothian,  and  wife  of  William  Douglas, 
1st  Viscount  Drumlanrig  (afterwards  Earl  of  Queensberry). 
One  of  her  elder  sisters.  Lady  Margaret,  whose  husband  was 
James,  seventh  Lord  Tester,  founded  in  1647  the  church  in 
Edinburgh  which  still  bears  her  name. 

No.  17.  The  mural  monument  of  the  Countess  of  Eglin- 
toune.  The  following  inscription,  though  nearly  obliterated, 
is  placed  within  an  arched  recess  : 


D    T.  H. 

Here  lyes  ane   Nobil  and  maist 

vertuous  Ladie,  Deame  Jeane 

Hamilton,  Countas  of  Egling- 

toun,    Dochtor    to   James    Duke 

of  Schattillarot,  sometyme 

Governor    of    this    Realme. 

She  deeeast  in  December 

MDXCVI. 


No.  18.  The  tomb  of  Sir  John  Sinclair  of  Ulbster,  a  man 
eminent  as  a  philanthropist,  and  a  writer  on  agriciilture, 
statistics,  and  other  subjects. 

No.  19.  The  Royal  Vault,  at  the  south  east  corner  of  the 
Chapel.  Its  early  history  is  involved  in  considerable  obscurity. 
We  have  already  described  the  wanton  destruction  of  its 
coffins  by  the  infuriated  multitude  in  1688.  In  the  circum- 
stances it  Is  fortunate  that  there  is  preserved  in  the  Advocate's 
Library  a  manuscript,  containing  an  authentic  account  of  a 
search  made  in  the  vault  by  authorized  persons,  about  five 
years  prior  to  the  sacrilegious  violation  of  its  moulderuag  relics 
of  Scottish  royalty.  The  narrative  of  the  inquisition  is  ns 
follows  : — 


184:  HISTORICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE 

"  Upon  ye  xxiv  of  January  MDCLXXXill.  by  procurement  ol  ye 
Bischop  of  Duniblayne,  I  went  into  ane  vault  in  ye  south-east  corner 
of  ye  Abbey  Church  of  Halyrudehouse,  and  yr.  were  present,  ye 
Lord  Strathnavar  and  E.  Forfare,  Mr  Robert  Scott,  minister  of  ye 
Abbey,  ye  Bishop  of  Dumblayn,  and  some  uthers.  Wee  viewed  yo 
body  of  King  James  ye  Fyft  of  Scotland.  It  lyeth  within  ane  wodden 
coffin,  and  is  coveret  wyth  ane  lead  coffin.  There  seemed  to  be  haire 
upon  ye  head  still.  The  body  was  two  lengths  of  my  staf,  with  two 
inches  more,  that  is  twae  inches  and  mare  above  twae  Scots  elne  ;  for 
I  measured  the  staf  with  ane  elnwand  efterward. 

'*  The  body  was  coloured  black  with  ye  balsom  that  preserved  it, 
which  was  lyke  melted  pitch.  The  Earl  of  Forfare  tooke  the  measure 
with  his  staf  lykeways.  There  was  plates  of  lead,  in  several  long 
pieces,  louse  upon  and  about  the  coffin,  which  carried  the  following 
inscription,  as  I  took  it  from  before  the  laishop  and  noblemen  in  ye  isle 
of  ye  church  : — 

"  ILLVSTRIS  SCOTORVM  REX  JACOBVS  EJVS  NOMINIS  V.  ETATIS 

SUE  ANNO  XXXI  EEONI  VERO  XXX  MORTEM  OBIIT  IN 

PALACIO    DE    FALKLAND    14    DECEMBRIS    ANNO    DNI.    MDXLII 

CVJVS  CORPVS  HIC  TEADITVM  EST  SEPVLTVRE. 

"  Next  ye  south  wall,  in  a  smaller  arch,  lay  a  shorter  coffin,  with  ye 
teeth  in  ye  skull. 

"  To  the  little  coffin  in  the  narrow  arch,  seemeth  to  belong  this  in. 
scription  made  out  of  long  pieces  of  lead  in  the  Saxon  character  : — 

^rimo=gcnita  IRcgina  g^cotiee,  Sponsa  3laco6i  U. 

IR^giS,       A.D.  MDXXXVII.    OBIIT. 

"  There  was  ane  piece  of  a  lead  crown,  upon  the  syde  of  whilk  I 
saw  tvfo  floor  de  leuces  gilded  :  and  upon  ye  north  side  of  ye  coffin  lay 
two  children,  none  of  the  coffins  a  full  elne  long,  and  one  of  them  lying 
within  ane  wod  chest,  the  other  only  the  lead  coffin. 

"  Upon  the  south  syde,  next  the  King's  body,  lay  ane  gret  coffin  of 
lead,  with  the  body  in  it.  The  muscles  of  the  thigh  seemed  to  be 
entire ;  the  body  not  so  long  as  King  James  the  Fyfth,  and  ye  balsam 
stagnating  in  sum  quantity  at  ye  foote  of  ye  coffin  ;  there  appeared  no 
inscription  upon  ye  coffin. 

"  And  at  ye  east  syde  of  the  vaults  which  was  at  ye  feet  of  ye  other 
coffins,  lay  a  coffin  with  the  skull  sawen  in  two,  and  ane  inscription 
in  small  letters,  gilded  upon  a  square  of  ye  lead  coffin,  making  it  to  ho, 
ye  bodye  of  Dame  Jane  Stewart,  Countesse  of  Argyle^  mdlxxxv,  oi 
thereby,  for  I  do  not  well  remember  ye  yeare.  The  largest  coffin,  1 
suld  suppose  to  be  that  of  LordDarnley's,^  and  the  short  coffin,  Queene 
Magdalene's." 

^  It  is  now  understood  that  the  body  of  Darnley  was  disinterred 
by  command  of  James  VI.  and  removed  to  Westminster  Abbey, 
tv'herp  it  was  reburied. 


tALACE  AND  ABBEY  OF  HOLYROOD.        185 

In  July  1848  the  body  of  Mary  of  Gueldres,  the  Queen  of 
James  II.,  was  removed  from  its  original  resting-place  in  the 
Trinity  College  Church,  which  she  had  founded  (which  was 
then  being  taken  down),  and  reinterred  in  the  Royal  vault. 

No.  20.  The  vault  of  the  Roxburgh  family.  In  it  lies 
Jane,  Countess  of  Roxburgh,  daughter  of  Patrick,  third 
Lord  Drummond,  governess  to  the  family  of  King  James 
VI.     She  died  on  the  seventh  October  1643. 

No.  21.  A  plain  tablet  on  the  third  pillar  from  the  east 
end  of  the  South  aisle,  in  memory  of  Adam  Both  well,  Bishop 
of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  and  Commendator  of  Holy  rood,  who 
celebrated  the  marriage  between  Mary  and  Bothwell.  His 
arms  are  cut  within  a  circular  tressure,  beneath  which  are  two 
Latin  inscriptions,  of  which  the  following  are  translations. 

M.  H.  R. 
Here  lies  interred  a  most  noble  man,  Lord  Adam  Bothwell, 
Bishop  of  Orkney  and  Zetland  ;  Commendator  of  the  Monastery  of 
Holy  Rood,  Senator  of  the  College  of  Justice,  and  one  of  the  Lords 
of  his  Majesty's  Privy  Council ;  who  died  in  the  67th  year  of  his 
age,  23d  day  of  the  month  of  August,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  1593. 

Teanslation  of  the  Verses  given  in  the  "  Theater 
OP  Mortality."" 
Thy  praise  is  triple  sure  ;  thyself,  thy  Sire, 
Thy  Son,  all  Senators,  whom  men  admire. 
The  stagg'ring  state  by  thee  was  quickly  stay'd, 
The  troubled  churcb  from  thee  got  present  aid. 
Thou  livedest  at  thy  wish  ;  thy  good  old  age 
In  wealth  and  honours  took  thee  off  the  stage. 
Thine  aged  corps  interred  here  now  lie, 
Thy  virtues  great  forbid  your  name  to  die. 
Go  !  happy  soul,  and  in  thy  last  repose, 
Vanquish  thou  death,  and  all  its  fatal  blows ; 
Thy  fragrant  frame  shall  thus  eternal  be, 
Unto  thy  country  and  posterity. 

No.  22.  Monument  on  the  south  wall  with  a  Latin  in- 
scription, of  which  the  following  is  a  translation  :  "  Here 
lies  Alexander  Hay  of  Easter  Kennet,  Clerk  Register,  who 
died  19th  September,  a.d.  1594." 

No.  23.  A  flat  slab  towards  the  west  end  of  the  South  aisle, 
exhibiting  a  plain  cross  and  calvary,  with  a  simply-shaped 
chalice  on  the  sinister  side.  The  stone  has  a  border  foniied 
of  two  parallel  lines,  but  bears  no  date  or  inscription. 


186  HISTORICAL   GUIDE,   (tC. 

The  stone  coffins  were  discovered  towards  the  east  end  of 
the  Chapel  Royal  during  the  alterations  in  the  garden  in 
1857.  From  their  position,  and  also  the  broken  state  of  the 
tops  or  stone-covers,  it  was  evident  that  these  coffins  had 
previously  been  disinterred,  as  they  contained  only  a  few 
human  bones,  with  no  other  remains.  There  was  no  inscrip- 
tion or  other  device  on  either  of  them,  but  it  is  probable  they 
may  have  originally  contained  the  remains  of  some  of  the 
Abbots  or  other  dignitaries  of  the  Monastery.  Their  dates 
are  probably  between  a.d.  1200  and  a.d.  1350. 

The  ancient  shield  on  the  wall,  bearing  on  it  the  Lion 
Rampant  of  Scotland,  is  of  oak,  and  formerly  hung  over 
the  great  western  entrance  to  the  Chapel-Royal. 

The  Unicorn  carved  in  stone,  which  leans  against  the 
wall,  was  one  of  the  supporters  of  the  Royal  Arms  of 
Scotland.  From  the  initials  below,  it  probably  formed  part 
of  the  "  King's  Armes  cunningly  carved  in  stone,"  which 
adorned  the  palace  of  James  V.  and  which  are  described 
by  John  Taylor,  the  Water  Poet,  as  still  existent  in  1618. 

To  the  east  of  the  Chapel,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  choir, 
stands  a  Monument  to  the  memory  of  Alexander  Milne. 
A.     {Motto).  Tarn  arte,  quam  marte.     M. 
In  clarissimum  virum,  A  lexandrum  Milnum,  Lapicidam 
egregium,  hie  sepultum,  Anno  Dom.  1643  Febr.  20. 

Siste  Hospes  ;  clarus  jacet  hoc  sub  Marmore  Milnus; 
Dignus  cui  Pharius  conderet  ossa  labor  : 
Quod  vel  in  eere  Myron  fudit,  vel  pinsit  Appelles, 
Artifice  hoc  potuit  hie  lapicida  manu. 
Sex  lustris  tantum  vixit,  sine  labe,  seneetam 
Prodidit,  et  medium  clauserat  ille  diem. 
The  translation  which  follows  is  also  on  the  stone  : — 
Here  is  buried  a  worthy  man  and  an 
Ingenious  Mason,  Alexander  Milne,  20th  Feb.  A.D.  1643. 

Stay  Passenger^  here  famous  Milne  doth  rest, 

Worthy  to  be  in  -^Egypt's  Marble  drest ; 

What  Myron  or  Appelles  could  have  done 

In  brass  or  paintry,  he  could  that  in  Stone  ; 

But  thretty  yeares  hee  (Blameless)  lived  ;  old  Age 

He  did  betray,  and  in's  Prime  left  this  stage. 

Restored  by  Robex-t  Mylne, 

Architect,  MDCCLXXVI.* 

*  This  monument  was  removed  in  1857  to  the  north-east  comer  of 
the  Chapel-Royal,  and  in  its  place  a  flat  tomb  ,toue  was  substituted. 


NOTES. 


Note  A- 


It  ii,  after  all,  not  impossible  that  the  "IMiracle  of  the  Holy 
Rood"  was  founded  on  some  accident  which  really  befel  the  King, 
the  peril  attendant  on  which  may  have  appeared,  to  his  supersti- 
tious mind,  to  have  been  averted  by  a  direct  exhibition  of  super- 
natural agency.  To  those  who  so  interpret  the  legend,  it  has 
appeared  remarkable  that  David  should  at  first  have  established 
his  Canons  on  the  fortified  rock  of  the  castle,  where  the  event  in 
question  could  not  possibly  have  occurred. 

It  appears  to  the  writer  of  these  pages  to  be  within  the  verge 
of  probability  that  the  Canons  of  the  Holy  Rood  were  first  settled 
by  David  at  the  base  of  the  Castle  rock,  and  on  the  precise  spot 
where  the  good  King  encountered  the  *'  wyld  hart,"  according  to 
the  legend. 

Froissart,  in  describing  the  Knight  of  Liddesdale's  capture  of 
the  Castle  by  stratagem,  in  1341,  speaks  of  the  Scottish  ambus- 
cade as  being  placed  in  "  an  old  Abbey  that  was  ruined  and 
uninhabited;  near  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  Castle  is  situ- 
ated."* Now  it  is  evident  that  the  spot  where  the  Scots  lay  con- 
cealed must  have  been  near  the  east  end  of  the  rock,  in  order  that 
they  might  rush,  immediately  on  the  signal  being  given,  to  the 
gate  of  the  Castle.  The  "ruined  abbey"  was  therefore  not  only 
near  the  Castle,  but  toward  the  east  of  it. 

The  legend  states  that  the  King  was  "  at  the  fate  of  the  crag" 
when  the  stag  assailed  him,  and  that  the  creature  vanished  at  the 
spot  "  quhare  springis  the  Rude  well."  Now,  at  the  very  place 
where  Froissart's  Abbey  must  have  stood,  we  find  a  "  crag,^*  and 
near  it  also  a  "well.^  The  former  appears  in  David's  own  Charter 

•  Froissart's  own  words  are  "  Et  puis  envoyerent  leurs  com- 
paignons  embusher  en  une  Abbaie  destruite  et  gastee,  la  ou  nul 
ne  demouroit,  et  estoit  assez  pres  du  pie  de  la  montagne,  la  ou  le 
chastel  seoit."— T.  L  p.  71,  Edit  Lyon,  1559. 


188  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

to  the  Monks  of  Holyrood  as  "  iinam  Craggam  que  est  sub  eodsm 
castello  versus  Orientem"  (a  crag  which  is  under  the  Castle 
toward  the  east),  and  the  latter  is  the  spring  which  gave  its  name 
to  the  Well-house  or  Wallace  tower  of  the  Castle,  and  also  ap- 
pears as  a  boundary  in  the  same  charter. 

On  this  little  eminence,  then,  forming  the  last  swell  of  the 
castle-hill,  and  known,  perhaps,  by  the  name  of  "  the  Crag  of  the 
Holy  Rood,"  we  are  disposed  to  believe  that  David  founded  his 
monastery  in  1128;  and  that  the  "  ruined  abbey  "  of  Froissartwas 
the  wreck  of  this  forsaken  house  of  the  Canons.  Thus  situated, 
it  might  be  designated  with  propriety  either  by  Fordun's  name  of 
"  the  Monastery  of  the  Crag  of  the  Holy  Rood,"  or  by  the  Charter 
appellation  of  "  Monastery  of  the  Castle  of  Maidens."  *  This  site, 
however,  may  have  been  afterwards  found  to  be  inconvenient. 
There  was  not,  perhaps,  sufficient  space  for  those  gardens  and 
orchards  which  recluses  loved,  nor  for  a  cemetery  sufficiently 
removed  from  the  cottages  of  "  Edwinesburg ;"  and,  besides,  the 
place  was  necessarily  exposed  to  violence  when  hostilities  were 
directed  against  the  fortress  above.  Convinced,  probably,  of  the 
-unsuitableness  of  the  site.  King  David  bestowed  on  the  Canons, 
in  the  year  1143-7  the  retired  and  spacious  meadow  below  Arthur's 
seat — a  locality  to  which,  after  the  lapse  of  several  years,  they 
finally  withdrew ;  and,  when  the  old  tale  was  partially  forgotten, 
transferred  to  the  rugged  precipices  above  their  new  dwell- 
ing the  marvellous  associations  connected  with  the  Crag  of  the 
Castle.  Another  migration  of  a  religious  fraternity,  imder  similar 
circumstances,  occurred  in  David's  reign.  He  founded  a  monas- 
tery for  Tyronensian  monks  at  Selkirk ;  but  afterwards,  "  quia 

♦  Lord  Hailes,  we  must  observe,  has  misquoted  Fordun  in  re- 
lation to  the  name  of  the  Abbey,  and  later  writers  have  adopted 
his  lordship's  error.  Lord  H.  says  (vol.  i.  p.  112,  note)  that  it 
is  called  by  Fordun  1.  v.  c.  48,  "  Monasterium  Sanctce  Crucis  de 
Crag"  or  "  IMonasterj'  of  Holyrood  of  the  Crag ; "  whereas,  the 
proper  reading  is  "Monasterium  de  Crag  Sanctae  Crucis,"  or 
"  Monastery  ot  the  Crag  of  the  Holy  Rood,"  The  difference  ia 
Hot  unimportant,  inasmuch  as  the  true  reading  records  the  fact 
that  there  was  a  "  crag "  known  by  the  name  of  that  of  the 
■*  Holy  Rood." 


NOTES.  189 

locus  non  erat  conveniens  abbaciae"  (because  the  site  was  not 
conrenient  for  an  abbey),  he  removed  the  establishment  to  Kelso. 

This,  we  think,  accounts  for  the  hitherto  unexplained  anomaly, 
that,  while  the  combined  evidence  of  history  and  chronicle  dis- 
tinctly indicates  the  year  1128  as  being  the  date  of  the  foundation 
of  the  Abbey,  the  writ,  which  has  evidently  always  been  regarded 
as  the  Foundation  Charter,  appears  not  to  have  been  granted  for 
a  period  of  at  least  fifteen  years  afterwards.  It  has  been  main- 
tained, however,  that  the  phraseology  of  the  charter  itself  is  evi- 
dence that  the  Abbey  was  founded  where  its  ruins  now  stand, 
before  it  was  written.  "We,  however,  are  not  disposed  to  attach 
much  importance  to  certain  dubious  expressions  in  that  writ ;  for 
these,  if  interpreted  as  certain  writers  would  wish,  might  have 
been  used,  with  equal  plausibility,  to  persuade  us  that  the  Canons 
were  fairly  established  below  Arthur's  Seat  at  the  date  of  the 
charter ;  while  we  have  incontestible  evidence  that  they  were  not 
there  for  at  least  thirty  years  afterwards.  Besides,  that  clause  in 
the  charter  itself,  which  gives  a  right  to  the  Canons  to  take 
timber  from  the  royal  woods  for  the  erection  of  their  church  and 
houses,  is  surely  sufficient  evidence  that  these  edifices  were  not 
yet  in  existence.  We  would  suggest,  however,  that  all  difficulties 
on  this  point  may  be  obviated  by  supposing  that  David  had,  a 
short  time  before,  conveyed  to  the  Monks  of  Holyrood  the  ground 
on  which  their  new  monastery  was  to  be  erected ;  and,  therefore 
speaks  of  it  in  the  Great  Charter  as  a  fixed  and  understood 
locality,  though  as  yet  the  conventual  buildings  had  not  been  ac- 
tually commenced. 

It  may  perhaps  be  objected  that,  if  the  first  House  of  the 
Canons  had  been  placed  on  or  close  to  the  "  Crag  "  mentioned  in 
David's  charter,  that  locality  would  hardly  have  been  described 
by  the  indefinite  designation  of  "a  crag;"  and  that  some  allusion 
would  certainly  have  been  made  to  the  existing  monastic  building 
in  the  narrative  of  that  portion  of  the  boundary.  We  think, 
however,  this  objection  is  obviated  by  presuming  that  the  "  land 
below  the  Castle"  was  the  pious  King's  first  gift  to  his  Canons, 
conceded  probably  in  1128 ;  that  this  part  of  the  charter,  conse- 
quently, is  only  a  confirmation  of  a  previous  grant,  and  ttat 
therefore,  as  usual  in  such  a  case,  the  ipsissima  verba  of  tbe 
origmal  charter  are  adhered  to. 

/ 


190  HISTORY   OF  HOLYROOD. 


Note  B. 


We  have  seen  that  Abbot  Crawford,  about  the  year  1460. 
laboured  with  singular  zeal  and  success  in  upholding  the  fabric 
of  his  venerable  church,  which  appears  to  have  been  in  a  very 
ruinous  condition  when  he  succeeded  to  the  Abbacy — a  state  of 
disrepair  easily  accounted  for  by  the  fact  of  its  having  been 
burned  by  Kichard  II.  in  the  invasion  of  1385,  and  never  after- 
wards thoroughly  repaired.  It  seems  to  us  to  be  not  improbable^ 
that,  at  this  period,  the  central  tower  was  of  itself  so  ruinocis,  or 
its  weight  appeared  so  dangerous  to  the  dilapidated  lower  parts 
of  the  edifice,  that  the  Abbot  may  have  caused  it  to  be  taken 
down,  and  satisfied  with  putting  the  choir,  transepts,  and  nave  in 
a  good  state  of  repair,  may  have  made  no  attempt  to  rebuild  it.  If 
any  confidence  can  be  placed  in  the  Plan  of  Edinburgh,  prepared 
for  the  direction  of  the  Earl  of  Hartford's  invading  army  in  1543,* 
this  supposition  would  appear  not  to  be  without  foundation.  In 
this  sketch,  while  the  choir,  transepts,  nave,  and  western  towers 
are  distinctly  depicted,  though  not,  perhaps,  in  very  correct  per- 
spective, there  is  no  appearance  whatever  of  the  great  central 
tower,  the  roof  running  in  an  unbroken  line  from  east  to  west. 
Now,  this  sketch  was  very  probably  done  from  memo'i^,  but  we 
can  hardly  imagine  that  a  person  who  had  so  distinct  a  recollec- 
tion of  the  two  western  towers,  with  their  short  square  spires, 
could  have  quite  forgotten  the  great  central  one,  if  it  had  existed 
in  his  time.  It  appears  also,  to  be  a  corroboration  of  our  conjec- 
ture, and  of  the  correctness  of  this  sketch,  that  when,  in  1570, 
articles  were  presented  in  the  General  Assembly,t  against  Adam 
Bothwell,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  for  allowing  the  church  of  the  Abbey 
to  be  in  so  dilapidated  a  condition,  he  says  nothing,  in  his 
laboured  Reply,J  of  the  injury  inflicted  on  the  weakened  walls, 
by  the  great  superincumbent  weight  of  the  central  tower,  and, 
that  even  when  he  proposes  to  remove  the  "  superfluous  ruinous 
pairts  "  in  order  to  repair  the  remainder  sufiSciently,  while  he  talks 
of  taking  down  the  choir  and  transepts,  he  never  speaks  of  the 
removal  of  the  tower  in  question — a  circumstance  which  could 

•  Preserved  in  the  British  Museum  (Cotton  MS.,  Augustus  L 
wrf.  ii.)  and  engraved  in  the  Bannatyne  Miscellany,  v<d.  i 

*  Booke  of  the  Uuiversall  Kirk,  vol.  L  p.  103. 
t  Ibid  vol  i.  p.  167. 


NOTES.  191 

hardly  have  occurred,  if  so  important  a  part  of  the  fabric  had  beei 
standing  in  his  day. 

Note  C. 

We  subjoin  a  portion  of  an  epitaph  on  David  II.,  taken  from 
the  Scotichronicon  of  Fordun,  as  a  curious  specimen  of  Mediaevai 
Lfttinity. 

Hie  rex  sub  lapide  David  inclitus  est  tumulatua, 
Vir  stirpis  nitidae,  per  climata  magnificatus. 
Non  vixit  cupide,  sed  dapsilitate  probatus : 
Gesturae  lepidae  dulcedine  mellificatus. 
Miles  mimificus,  mitis  moderamine,  Isetus, 
Pulcher,  pacificus,  placida  probitate  facetua ; 
Ductor  dignificus,  in  ee  pietate  quietus ; 
Fragrans,  fructificus,  flos  fertilitate  repletua. 

»  »  »  * 

Suis  visceribus  sapientia  nidificavit, 
Amplis  muneribus  adventitios  recrea\'it ; 
Sub  verbis  brevibus  sapide  responsa  paravit 
Fidis  faminibus  discordes  miificavit, 
Praelatos  coluit  cleri,  tractando  decenter 
Et  proceres  voluit  sibi  circomstare  potenter ; 
Burgenses  statuit  sua  commutare  licenter, 
Et  populum  studuit  sub  jure  tenere  patenter 

*  »  *  • 

Anglia  diligitur,  et  pro  valido  veneratur, 
Verax  asseritur,  et  pro  bonitate  beatur; 
Scotia  jam  quaeritiu",  quia  fertilis  aura  fugatur, 
Et  timor  ingeritur,  ac  defectus  sociatur, 
O  dolor !  0  gemitus  !  premitur  princeps  pretiosuii} 
O  furor  I  0  fremitus !  decessit  dux  dominosus ; 
O  stupor !  0  strepitus  I  o  miles  deliciosus  I 
Ipse  fuit  penitus  decor  in  regno  rutUosus. 
Ergo  pater  venise,  qm  misit  aroma  reorum, 
Ad  loca  laetit:^  trahat  ilium  rex  superorum : 
In  jubilo  patriae,  cum  principe  pacificorum, 
Sub  cultu  latriae  quiescat  in  regno  polorum.* 

•  Seotichronicon.  lib.  xiv.  cap.  35. 


J- 

192  HISTORY  OF  HOLYROOD. 

Note  D. 
The  dimensions  of  the  ALbey  Church  are  as  follow  :— 

Feet.  lu. 

Length  within  walls 127  0 

Breadth  within  walls             59  0 

„       of  the  Middle  Aisle          ....  29  6 

„           „      North  Aisle            ....  14  9 

„           „      South  Aisle            ....  14  9 
Height  of  the  East  End  Wall,  to  the  top  of  the 

Fleur-de-lis 70  0 

Height  of  the  Great  East  Window       ...  34  2 

Breadth  of  it 20  0 

Width  of  the  original  Arch  in  which  it  is  placed  21  9 
Height  to  the  point  of  the  Arch,  being  the  original 

height  of  the  inner  vaxilting,  about        .        .  60  0 

Height  of  Columns               .        .        .        .        .  28  0 

Girth  of  each .  16  8 

Width  of  the  Arches 10  0 

Height  of  the  Side  Walls 28  0 

„    ^Yest  End  Wall       ....  59  0 

„           „    Arch  over  West  Entrance         .    (inside)  22  4 

Width  of  the  West  Door 9  6 

Height  of  the  North- West  Square  Tower     .        .  52  0 

Breadth  of  it  outside (square)  23  0 

„            „     inside (square)  15  6 

Width  of  the  Windows  in  the  North  and  South 

Aisles 2  11 

Except  the  two  eastmost  in  the  south  wall  next 

the  cloister,  one  of  which  is    ...        .  40 

And  the  other 4  7 

Width  of  North  Side  Door 6  4 

Depth  of  Piers  of  Buttresses  in  the  Cloistoj  .        .  6  6 

Breadth  of  these  Piers 4  8 

Width  of  the  Walk  in  the  Cloister        ...  iO  I 


941. 2Ed4 
HS21 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY 

0035524740 


1 


•H" 


OJ 
^  CM